# Acrylic pipebending 101



## MiiX

What kind of fittings would you be using with this?

Awsome guide


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What kind of fittings would you be using with this?
> 
> Awsome guide


With this particular tube,c47 Bitspower or any 12mm OD push fit fitting


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## kingchris

+ Rep, acrylic tubes on my next build.... might redo this one!


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## rows

NICE! I'm searching for a new WC build, but if it is that easy I also will use acrylic instead of "normal" tubing. When using Acrylic tube can you still use Bitspower fittings for the connection or do you guys use other kind of fittings?


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## MiiX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> With this particular tube,c47 Bitspower or any 12mm OD push fit fitting


Thanks alot! I miht have to use crystal tubing for my build as there are no space for anything else








Where do you buy the tubing/pipes?


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> With this particular tube,c47 Bitspower or any 12mm OD push fit fitting
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks alot! I miht have to use crystal tubing for my build as there are no space for anything else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where do you buy the tubing/pipes?
Click to expand...

E22 has good tube

http://www.e22.biz/

Primochill has a new range out,its not on site yet but it is coming.

http://www.primochill.com/


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## WiSK

Nice guide









Would like to add a tip. After bending, fitting and cutting to size, you can strengthen the acrylic with a process called annealing. Very simple. Switch your oven to 80C (175F), switch *off* fan-assisted. This is just below softening temperature. Put a sheet of grease proof paper on a flat baking tray and cook your pipe for 2 hours. Then switch off oven but don't open it yet; let it cool down naturally. This allows the acrylic to rearrange any microscopic stress fractures. It's especially important for the ends of the pipe which you are about to force into the Bitspower C47 fittings.

Oh and another thing. If you're having trouble with a too-hot airgun, then a decent hairdryer can also easily reach softening temperature.


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## icostin

for the bending acrylic guide. Smart thought that former.


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## RavageTheEarth

Very nice guide. Nicely detailed and perfect for a person like myself. I love it! Thanks & REP to you!


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## DerComissar

Marvelous guide!
And give Magoo a treat for his help!
Rep+


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## Kainn

i might have to do this next time, i like.


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## Lutfij

another classy guide b neg! thanks for the read +rep


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## ElGreco

Thank you for another useful guide...


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## Ichigo27

+Rep, havent finished your other thread on pipe bending and now contemplating acrylic!! Just Awesome!!


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## derickwm

Thanks B- +rep


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## Baron C

Thankyou

Just made my 10m of tube a sweet deal. ;-)


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## deafboy

I give this thread a B-

lol, just playing. Looks simple enough.


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## unfkwithable

we need more pics of the puppy helper


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## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What kind of fittings would you be using with this?
> 
> Awsome guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this particular tube,c47 Bitspower or any 12mm OD push fit fitting
Click to expand...

Do you need to sand down the ends of the tube to fit into the C47? I struggle to get mine on. It's almost like it's just big enough to fit into the fittings but too big for the rubber rings.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unfkwithable*
> 
> we need more pics of the puppy helper


Magoo approves this post



He has decided to let you live.........this time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> What kind of fittings would you be using with this?
> 
> Awsome guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With this particular tube,c47 Bitspower or any 12mm OD push fit fitting
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you need to sand down the ends of the tube to fit into the C47? I struggle to get mine on. It's almost like it's just big enough to fit into the fittings but too big for the rubber rings.
Click to expand...

I use a smear of silicone grease and profile the edges,they slide right in


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## Fieldsweeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Nice guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to add a tip. After bending, fitting and cutting to size, you can strengthen the acrylic with a process called annealing. Very simple. Switch your oven to 80C (175F), switch *off* fan-assisted. This is just below softening temperature. Put a sheet of grease proof paper on a flat baking tray and cook your pipe for 2 hours. Then switch off oven but don't open it yet; let it cool down naturally. This allows the acrylic to rearrange any microscopic stress fractures. It's especially important for the ends of the pipe which you are about to force into the Bitspower C47 fittings.
> 
> Oh and another thing. If you're having trouble with a too-hot airgun, then a decent hairdryer can also easily reach softening temperature.


\

umm, if i remember correctly annealing actually softens a material.


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> umm, if i remember correctly annealing actually softens a material.


Annealing is done at 80C which is _below_ the softening temperature for PMMA acrylic: 105C. So the tube will retain its shape, but it's just hot enough for the broken structures to be able to reform within the acrylic. And when it's cooled down again it will be stronger than before.


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## Baron C

Thankyou B.

(note , Charlton ... Luvly place! ;-)


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## PCModderMike

Great guide. I would love to try acrylic tubing in a future build.


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## Krusher33

From CPU to GPU, I'm trying to decide if 2 45* bends or one curved tube would look better.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Thankyou B.
> 
> (note , Charlton ... Luvly place! ;-)


Damn sight better than Woolwich!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> Great guide. I would love to try acrylic tubing in a future build.


Its not as hard as it looks Mike,give it a go.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> From CPU to GPU, I'm trying to decide if 2 45* bends or one curved tube would look better.


You can make the former to any radius you like so you could have a nice flowing curve port to port.


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Damn sight better than Woolwich!


The Arsenal's fairly nice, just stay north of Beresford Street / Plumstead Road


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Damn sight better than Woolwich!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Arsenal's fairly nice, just stay north of Beresford Street / Plumstead Road
Click to expand...

This man speaks truth!

Plumstead is something else man.....


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## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You can make the former to any radius you like so you could have a nice flowing curve port to port.


Key word is *Look.* I wish I was good at sketchup or something so I could visually see it.

What I may do is use my 12mm tubing for one and the 10mm tubing for other. I'm just waiting on my GPU waterblock before I start. Plus I still need to find an insert.


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## Fieldsweeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> umm, if i remember correctly annealing actually softens a material.
> 
> 
> 
> Annealing is done at 80C which is _below_ the softening temperature for PMMA acrylic: 105C. So the tube will retain its shape, but it's just hot enough for the broken structures to be able to reform within the acrylic. And when it's cooled down again it will be stronger than before.
Click to expand...

'You clearly do not know the way annealing works (chemically/physically)


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## Baron C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This man speaks truth!
> 
> Plumstead is something else man.....


Pfff...i see your plumsteads with Ilford!
A cesspit of dire faceless downtrodden folk.
;-)


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> 'You clearly do not know the way annealing works (chemically/physically)


You are quite welcome to explain it better


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> umm, if i remember correctly annealing actually softens a material.
> 
> 
> 
> Annealing is done at 80C which is _below_ the softening temperature for PMMA acrylic: 105C. So the tube will retain its shape, but it's just hot enough for the broken structures to be able to reform within the acrylic. And when it's cooled down again it will be stronger than before.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 'You clearly do not know the way annealing works (chemically/physically)
Click to expand...

The stress reliving technique he described works very well,its not annealing but the info is correct.


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The stress reliving technique he described works very well,its not annealing but the info is correct.


Forgive me if I've used the wrong term, in Dutch it's called _temperen_ and indeed if I would say that I'm doing this with acrylic to my metalworking colleagues in our factory, then they would also look at me strangely. This with acrylic is the same technique as with glass, and as far as my Google-fu leads me that is called annealing in English.

The point is that heating up the tube with a heatgun (300C ?), bending it and then letting it cool quickly back to room temperature causes internal stress. Sticking it in the oven at 80C relaxes this stress. That's why I posted and it doesn't matter what you want to call it, it works. (And also good for strengthening glued acrylic joints.)


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The stress reliving technique he described works very well,its not annealing but the info is correct.
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive me if I've used the wrong term, in Dutch it's called _temperen_ and indeed if I would say that I'm doing this with acrylic to my metalworking colleagues in our factory, then they would also look at me strangely. This with acrylic is the same technique as with glass, and as far as my Google-fu leads me that is called annealing in English.
> 
> The point is that heating up the tube with a heatgun (300C ?), bending it and then letting it cool quickly back to room temperature causes internal stress. Sticking it in the oven at 80C relaxes this stress. That's why I posted and it doesn't matter what you want to call it, it works. (And also good for strengthening glued acrylic joints.)
Click to expand...

I knew what you meant mate,your info was correct.


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I knew what you meant mate,your info was correct.


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## unfkwithable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magoo approves this post
> 
> 
> 
> He has decided to let you live.........this time.
> I use a smear of silicone grease and profile the edges,they slide right in


OP delivers...

BTW...now you have me considering a real liquid system


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unfkwithable*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Magoo approves this post
> 
> 
> 
> He has decided to let you live.........this time.
> I use a smear of silicone grease and profile the edges,they slide right in
> 
> 
> 
> OP delivers...
> 
> BTW...now you have me considering a real liquid system
Click to expand...

Do it!

It will get you girls!

Not sure if you want girls that get turned on by watercooling tho.......


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## Krusher33

Quote:


> So you want to use copper instead of plastic tubing?
> So you want to bend acrylic tube instead of copper?


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## Fieldsweeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> 'You clearly do not know the way annealing works (chemically/physically)
> 
> 
> 
> You are quite welcome to explain it better
Click to expand...

Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment that alters a material to increase its ductility and to make it more workable. It involves heating material to above its critical temperature, maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing can induce ductility, soften material, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties.

Ductility:

In materials science, ductility is a solid material's ability to deform under tensile stress; this is often characterized by the material's ability to be stretched into a wire. Malleability, a similar property, is a material's ability to deform under compressive stress; this is often characterized by the material's ability to form a thin sheet by hammering or rolling. Both of these mechanical properties are aspects of plasticity, the extent to which a solid material can be plastically deformed without fracture. Also, these material properties are dependent on temperature and pressure

Source:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)


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## Fieldsweeper

I am also wondering why you would want a water system with such small diameter tubing???


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> 'You clearly do not know the way annealing works (chemically/physically)
> 
> 
> 
> You are quite welcome to explain it better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment that alters a material to increase its ductility and to make it more workable. It involves heating material to above its critical temperature, maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing can induce ductility, soften material, *relieve internal stresses*, *refine the structure by making it homogeneous*, and improve cold working properties.
> 
> Ductility:
> 
> In materials science, ductility is a solid material's ability to deform under tensile stress; this is often characterized by the material's ability to be stretched into a wire. Malleability, a similar property, is a material's ability to deform under compressive stress; this is often characterized by the material's ability to form a thin sheet by hammering or rolling. Both of these mechanical properties are aspects of plasticity, the extent to which a solid material can be plastically deformed without fracture. Also, these material properties are dependent on temperature and pressure
> 
> Source:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)
Click to expand...

He is correct then........he is describing a stress relieving method.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> I am also wondering why you would want a water system with such small diameter tubing???


Tubing bore plays little part in the flow rate in watercooling,everything gets reduced to the 9mm bore of the fitting,most tubing used is around 10mm bore. My SR2 uses a 8.5mm bore tubing with no issues.
Why do you think this is too small a bore for this purpose?


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)


Acrylic is not metal, try this one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(glass)


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## Fieldsweeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic is not metal, try this one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(glass)
Click to expand...

its called material science its the same frking thing

the def was basically the same.

*Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science*, is a heat treatment that alters a material to increase its ductility and to make it more workable. It involves heating material to above its critical temperature, maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing can induce ductility, soften material, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic is not metal, try this one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(glass)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its called material science its the same frking thing
> 
> the def was basically the same.
> 
> *Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science*, is a heat treatment that alters a material to increase its ductility and to make it more workable. It involves heating material to above its critical temperature, maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing can induce ductility, soften material, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties.
Click to expand...

If its the same thing,why call him out?.......

In other news,there will be no more flamebaiting in this thread please.


----------



## Fieldsweeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(metallurgy)
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic is not metal, try this one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annealing_(glass)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its called material science its the same frking thing
> 
> the def was basically the same.
> 
> *Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science*, is a heat treatment that alters a material to increase its ductility and to make it more workable. It involves heating material to above its critical temperature, maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing can induce ductility, soften material, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If its the same thing,why call him out?.......
> 
> In other news,there will be no more flamebaiting in this thread please.
Click to expand...

ummm, he called me out, all i said that annealing of acrylic would be detrimental to the use described here, his description (several post above that i quoted) of annealing was incorrect so he requested that I elaborate.

I did so then he said it wasnt the same.. etc etc, annealing is annealing, its material science the process and effect is the same for metals, plastics what ever.


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## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Nice guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to add a tip. After bending, fitting and cutting to size, you can strengthen the acrylic with a process called annealing. Very simple. Switch your oven to 80C (175F), switch *off* fan-assisted. This is just below softening temperature. Put a sheet of grease proof paper on a flat baking tray and cook your pipe for 2 hours. Then switch off oven but don't open it yet; let it cool down naturally. This allows the acrylic to rearrange any microscopic stress fractures. It's especially important for the ends of the pipe which you are about to force into the Bitspower C47 fittings.
> 
> Oh and another thing. If you're having trouble with a too-hot airgun, then a decent hairdryer can also easily reach softening temperature.
> 
> 
> 
> \
> 
> umm, if i remember correctly annealing actually softens a material.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> umm, if i remember correctly annealing actually softens a material.
> 
> 
> 
> Annealing is done at 80C which is _below_ the softening temperature for PMMA acrylic: 105C. So the tube will retain its shape, but it's just hot enough for the broken structures to be able to reform within the acrylic. And when it's cooled down again it will be stronger than before.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> umm, if i remember correctly annealing actually softens a material.
> 
> 
> 
> Annealing is done at 80C which is _below_ the softening temperature for PMMA acrylic: 105C. So the tube will retain its shape, but it's just hot enough for the broken structures to be able to reform within the acrylic. And when it's cooled down again it will be stronger than before.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 'You clearly do not know the way annealing works (chemically/physically)
Click to expand...

Say again? You called him out,not him calling you.

Plastics dont gain any workabilty thru the annealing process,its primarily used for stress relieving.
Metallurgy and Plastics are not the same thing when these processes are used.

This stops now please.


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## Grumpich

Hello....
This thread is really interesting. Here in Germany in every forum it is said that it is impossible to bend acrylic tubes, I am glad I found this.
I have alot of acrylic tubes here with an OD of 16mm and an ID of 10mm. I was thinking if I cut a screw thread (G1/4) into each end of the pipe and then screw in a double nipple fitting I could connect them in the System. But I though this would be a problem because to screw the fittings to the coolers I would have to move the tubes which would not work if they are bend. So I found these fittings Alphacool which I could screw onto the waterblocks without having to move the tubes. Do you guys think this will work?


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## Hamy144

From my experience when bending my acrylic pipes the best way to do it is to heat the outside edge of the pipe only, it stops the pipe collapsing in on itself.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> From my experience when bending my acrylic pipes the best way to do it is to heat the outside edge of the pipe only, it stops the pipe collapsing in on itself.


Did you actually read the guide? Thats what the silicone tube is for.....


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Did you actually read the guide? Thats what the silicone tube is for.....


I did, and I didn't have any silicone tube or similar when I was doing it so this is an alternative to anyone who does have any.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Did you actually read the guide? Thats what the silicone tube is for.....
> 
> 
> 
> I did, and I didn't have any silicone tube or similar when I was doing it so this is an alternative to anyone who does have any.
Click to expand...

You cant just heat the outside and expect it to bend without microfractures,my advice is get the tube or prepare for heartache.....


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## Krusher33

It would be hard to only heat outside of the acrylic. Not only that, it wouldn't bend if the inside is not heated. The fact that it didn't collapse or kink, nice job. Don't expect it every time though.


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## Boweezie

Awesome guide B Neg! Thanks for all the info. One quick question from your experience, can you form tighter bends than what you did in the tutorial? I have some pretty tight 90 degree turns that i will need to make so just wanted to know.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Awesome guide B Neg! Thanks for all the info. One quick question from your experience, can you form tighter bends than what you did in the tutorial? I have some pretty tight 90 degree turns that i will need to make so just wanted to know.


You can go tighter,try it as each tube will behave different depending on wall thickness.
The beauty of the alu former is you can alter it as you see fit.


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## XKaan

Nice work!


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## Baron C

Hi all,

Just to be sure as im testing things out. I grabbed the E22- camozzi fittings with the internal torx. I'm still unsure how this method is 'tightened'?

I sanded down the sides of the tube at the ends (enough to let it pass the o-ring with resistence)
How far down past the o-ring should the tube go..all the way to the end?

Any advice?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Just to be sure as im testing things out. I grabbed the E22- camozzi fittings with the internal torx. I'm still unsure how this method is 'tightened'?
> 
> I sanded down the sides of the tube at the ends (enough to let it pass the o-ring with resistence)
> How far down past the o-ring should the tube go..all the way to the end?
> 
> Any advice?


All the way then pull the lock ring up.


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## Baron C

Ah ha!

Its a lock ring!!

Now I understand!

Top bloke B.!


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## ElGreco

It is very possible that this guide will reach soon more than 100 of pages like the coper guide is. Eventhough i read both threads from the very beginning, i still believe it would be quite useful to gather in the first (or second) post of both threads, links and screenshots with the fittings that could be used in each case!

Just a thought...


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## Krusher33

I'm thinking of ditching the Phobya SLI fittings. The reason they're "variable" is because of the ability to slide the fittings back and forth on its shaft. There's nothing to stop the tube from going too far in. I'm beginning to wish I had gotten the push fittings instead even though i don't like them as much.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGreco*
> 
> It is very possible that this guide will reach soon more than 100 of pages like the coper guide is. Eventhough i read both threads from the very beginning, i still believe it would be quite useful to gather in the first (or second) post of both threads, links and screenshots with the fittings that could be used in each case!
> 
> Just a thought...


This. I had a difficult time finding suitable fittings (that were in stock/inexpensive) when I switched over to copper.


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## B NEGATIVE

Okay,I will ask about merging the threads.


----------



## ElGreco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Okay,I will ask about merging the threads.


Sorry B, perhaps i did not express myself clearly enough. What i meant was to add in the first post of EACH thread, also the fittings that could be used for each case.

IMHO its better to have 2 split threads, one for copper one for acrylic!


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## B NEGATIVE

http://www.wellfittings.com/brass-push-in-fittings-with-o-ring-bspp-g-bpoc-g-hex-male-stud.html

Push fit for up to 16mm OD tube.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> http://www.wellfittings.com/brass-push-in-fittings-with-o-ring-bspp-g-bpoc-g-hex-male-stud.html
> 
> Push fit for up to 16mm OD tube.


Any ideas on pricing?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I was going to buy some acrylic tubing and a heat gun and just practice bending it with trial and error so that when my new build time comes I'd be ready. Thanks for saving me some time and money B!


----------



## ledzepp3

Are there any decent pictures of this being utilized throughout a build? I'd love to see the looks of it compared to loads of rotary and angle fittings, I bet it would look cleaner


----------



## Kainn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Are there any decent pictures of this being utilized throughout a build? I'd love to see the looks of it compared to loads of rotary and angle fittings, I bet it would look cleaner


I think the mod of the month uses it, on my phone so I can't send links but a quick search for it will get you far


----------



## MrYakuZa

I pointed to the thread! One day I'll prove it.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Are there any decent pictures of this being utilized throughout a build? I'd love to see the looks of it compared to loads of rotary and angle fittings, I bet it would look cleaner


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kainn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Are there any decent pictures of this being utilized throughout a build? I'd love to see the looks of it compared to loads of rotary and angle fittings, I bet it would look cleaner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the mod of the month uses it, on my phone so I can't send links but a quick search for it will get you far
Click to expand...

Home page in the carousel. Though he did no bending.


----------



## Kainn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Home page in the carousel. Though he did no bending.


Yeah, its getting late, but that's what it is called, its kind of the same look though iirc


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Are there any decent pictures of this being utilized throughout a build? I'd love to see the looks of it compared to loads of rotary and angle fittings, I bet it would look cleaner


K.3nny did a mod with this, also includes some tips on bending
http://www.overclock.net/t/1329103/k-3nnys-classy-lianli-pc-7hx-casebuild/40#post_18856515


----------



## Ferguson005

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/129/=mskuj1

B-, do you think the crush resistant 3/8" OD tubing would be best to use inside 10mm ID acrylic for bending?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferguson005*
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/129/=mskuj1
> 
> B-, do you think the crush resistant 3/8" OD tubing would be best to use inside 10mm ID acrylic for bending?


3/8in = 9.525MM that would be an EXTREMELY tight fit...

Jeffinslaw


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ferguson005*
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/129/=mskuj1
> 
> B-, do you think the crush resistant 3/8" OD tubing would be best to use inside 10mm ID acrylic for bending?
> 
> 
> 
> 3/8in = 9.525MM that would be an EXTREMELY tight fit...
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

I use 9.5mm,the extra .025 shouldnt make much difference.


----------



## Baron C

Need some advice guys.

I find once l fit the tube into the fitting ( E22 camozzi) that short of cutting it out the tube is snug.
Which is great, but is there a trick to getting it out ?

I tried twisting, etc, but bloody hell had to use my dremel ;-)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> I find once l fit the tube into the fitting ( E22 camozzi) that short of cutting it out the tube is snug.
> Which is great, but is there a trick to getting it out ?


Dunk it in water for a minute, twist it within the fitting a few times round, then pull.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Need some advice guys.
> 
> I find once l fit the tube into the fitting ( E22 camozzi) that short of cutting it out the tube is snug.
> Which is great, but is there a trick to getting it out ?
> 
> I tried twisting, etc, but bloody hell had to use my dremel ;-)


Make sure the lock ring is down and keep it down while trying to pull it out.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys so I have finally decided on using acrylic for my build. I already have 3/8 ID 5/8 OD monsoon fittings so I would like to use the 3/8 x 5/8 acrylic tubing. I'm wondering where you guys buy this tubing. Also, can I get acrylic tubing in a red color? I found some red acrylic tubing online, but it is 1/2 OD. Can't find anything smaller. Would I be able to buy tubing at a local hardware store like Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys so I have finally decided on using acrylic for my build. I already have 3/8 ID 5/8 OD monsoon fittings so I would like to use the 3/8 x 5/8 acrylic tubing. I'm wondering where you guys buy this tubing. Also, can I get acrylic tubing in a red color? I found some red acrylic tubing online, but it is 1/2 OD. Can't find anything smaller. Would I be able to buy tubing at a local hardware store like Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc?


You cant use those fittings with acrylic,you need to use push fit or Bitspower c47 fittings.


----------



## Baron C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Make sure the lock ring is down and keep it down while trying to pull it out.


Yeah, was trying that last night, it was in tight! Could be I need to sand them down more than I thought. Looked amazing so will be worth it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Dunk it in water for a minute, twist it within the fitting a few times round, then pull.


Warm water or cold Wisk?

Cheers chaps

Also..Dremel..doo much fun, I had no idea!!!


----------



## WiSK

Just room temp water is fine, best to use to distilled so it doesn't leave any marks. The point of the water is to lubricate the rubber sealing rings like using butter to get a ring off your finger.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Hey guys so I have finally decided on using acrylic for my build. I already have 3/8 ID 5/8 OD monsoon fittings so I would like to use the 3/8 x 5/8 acrylic tubing. I'm wondering where you guys buy this tubing. Also, can I get acrylic tubing in a red color? I found some red acrylic tubing online, but it is 1/2 OD. Can't find anything smaller. Would I be able to buy tubing at a local hardware store like Home Depot, Lowes, Ace Hardware, etc?


Primochill has some colored ones: http://primoshop.tylerindustries.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=317


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Primochill has some colored ones: http://primoshop.tylerindustries.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=317


So this is 3/8 ID and 1/2 OD. My fittings are for 3/8 ID 5/8 OD. Is that how acrylic tubing works? Would I be able to wrestle that onto my fitting since it is only 1/8" smaller. How does that work?

Thanks & REP for you


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You cant use those fittings with acrylic,you need to use push fit or Bitspower c47 fittings.


oh never mind on my last response. Alright thanks guys!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Could someone link me to an example of fittings that I would use for the 3/8 ID 1/2 OD acrylic tubing? Thanks


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Could someone link me to an example of fittings that I would use for the 3/8 ID 1/2 OD acrylic tubing? Thanks


There's different colors of these Bitspower c47's: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27584

otherwise

E22 PF12: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37272
E22 PF12.2: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37273

Nevermind, I misread that you wanted 1/2 inch. They're really, really hard to find for acrylic. I searched a long time and have given up on it.


----------



## fakeblood

I really must stop visiting this thread! Its making me want to change to acrylic...Although I think my better half will have my head on a spike if I spend more $$$ on computers rather than $$$ on that one metal circular thing she is after lol


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> I really must stop visiting this thread! Its making me want to change to acrylic...Although I think my better half will have my head on a spike if I spend more $$$ on computers rather than $$$ on that one metal circular thing she is after lol


She wants a CD?


----------



## fakeblood

CDs are metal??


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> CDs are metal??


Well the shiny part is usually made out of aluminum so close enough







(I actually couldn't think of any other round electronic object so that's a factor too)


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> There's different colors of these Bitspower c47's: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27584
> 
> otherwise
> 
> E22 PF12: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37272
> E22 PF12.2: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37273
> 
> Nevermind, I misread that you wanted 1/2 inch. They're really, really hard to find for acrylic. I searched a long time and have given up on it.


Oh well that is fine. What size acrylic is the Bitspower c47 for?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Oh well that is fine. What size acrylic is the Bitspower c47 for?


12mm OD.


----------



## mattcube64

Hi guys!

I'm building my very first water cooling rig, and was looking to do exactly what you've done here, B Negative. Awesome!

I'm pretty much set on getting the Primochill white acrylic tubing posted in this thread:

http://primoshop.tylerindustries.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=317

But I can't seem to find any push fittings in either matte black, red, or white. Can someone link me to a a good assortment of push fittings (the kind with teeth/retaining mechanism) that aren't silver or copper looking?

Thank you!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I'm building my very first water cooling rig, and was looking to do exactly what you've done here, B Negative. Awesome!
> 
> I'm pretty much set on getting the Primochill white acrylic tubing posted in this thread:
> 
> http://primoshop.tylerindustries.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=317
> 
> But I can't seem to find any push fittings in either matte black, red, or white. Can someone link me to a a good assortment of push fittings (the kind with teeth/retaining mechanism) that aren't silver or copper looking?
> 
> Thank you!


You will need to paint them until E22 get the black fittings out.


----------



## icostin

It seems that primochill had this acrylic tubing into their sleeve. I've looked ont their website and the tubing seems to be compatible with the primochill ghost compression fittings. Cames in many colours and lenghts... But can't buy it anywhere for the moment. I've ordered some e22 tubing and some c47 bitspower fittings for my build. I'll order the primochill asap and have a look at both of them.


----------



## icostin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> I'm building my very first water cooling rig, and was looking to do exactly what you've done here, B Negative. Awesome!
> 
> I'm pretty much set on getting the Primochill white acrylic tubing posted in this thread:
> 
> http://primoshop.tylerindustries.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=317
> 
> But I can't seem to find any push fittings in either matte black, red, or white. Can someone link me to a a good assortment of push fittings (the kind with teeth/retaining mechanism) that aren't silver or copper looking?
> 
> Thank you!


Advice...

Wait until someone tests this primochill tubing with their fittings, we have no info on that for the moment.... Go for the e22 and the c47 fittings, it has been tested, works just fine and bitspower is top notch when speaking of fittings.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icostin*
> 
> It seems that primochill had this acrylic tubing into their sleeve. I've looked ont their website and the tubing seems to be compatible with the primochill ghost compression fittings. Cames in many colours and lenghts... But can't buy it anywhere for the moment. I've ordered some e22 tubing and some c47 bitspower fittings for my build. I'll order the primochill asap and have a look at both of them.


Acrylic tube is not flexible, it won't work with primochill ghost nor any kind of compression fittings because the tube will just shatter as soon as you screw on the compression part.


----------



## icostin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Acrylic tube is not flexible, it won't work with primochill ghost nor any kind of compression fittings because the tube will just shatter as soon as you screw on the compression part.


Read the description and translate in comprehensive english for me then, maybe I didn't get it right :

http://primoshop.tylerindustries.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=317


----------



## icostin

Rigid ghost compression fittings ....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

There are no compatible Primochill fittings at this time,use push fit or c47 until they do.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icostin*
> 
> Rigid ghost compression fittings ....


My bad then, I didn't see they are coming with new fittings for this. Let me correct myself








Regular "Primochill Ghost" compression fittings will not work with acrylic.
If there is a new type "Primochill Rigid Ghost" then it's not a "compression" fitting, but probably a lock ring type.


----------



## icostin

Voila :

Features

Trusted/Experienced Brand
Glass-like transparency
Thicker Wall for safer operation
15 Vivid Colors to choose from
Capatable with PrimoChill Rigid Ghost compression fittings <<<<<<








Virgin PMMA Material

Specifications:
Inner Diameter: 3/8in.
Outer Diameter: 1/2in.
Wall Thickness: 1/16in.

"Capatable" this is not english for me .....


----------



## icostin

Primochill has something in the ovens for this acrylic, they will not be satisfied with just selling the acrylic....


----------



## Solonowarion

With the acrylic having an 8 mm ID, this 5mm OD fuel line is a little small.

It is the biggest I could find though. Can anyone point me in the right direction?


----------



## Solonowarion




----------



## Krusher33

Well done.

I tried with hairdryer. Ain't nobody got time fo dat!

Harbor Freight had heat guns on sale for $10 with a coupon. I just picked it up today.


----------



## Lovidore

As much as I admire your work.. The pipe from the bottom GPU to the res looks so wrong. I know you worked hard to get that bend right but it looks so out of place.

Please don't kill me!


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lovidore*
> 
> As much as I admire your work.. The pipe from the bottom GPU to the res looks so wrong. I know you worked hard to get that bend right but it looks so out of place.
> 
> Please don't kill me!


Now that you mention it I agree with you. In trying to keep the pipes coming out of gpu parallel I think I just made the one to the res unnecessarily big. Perhaps just having it come out on an angle.


----------



## radicalrev

I am about to join the bandwagon here, just ordered my C47 bitspower fittings.

However, I am torn between OD/ID of 12mm/10mm vs 12mm/8mm.

Anyone who have finished their build can chime in on which ID should I go for with the bitspower fittings?


----------



## Inglewood78

Anyone know a good vendor in the US that sells these tubes?


----------



## Krusher33

Performance PC's sells E22 tubes. i'm using them now. They bend quite nice and are crystal clear for sure.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev*
> 
> I am about to join the bandwagon here, just ordered my C47 bitspower fittings.
> 
> However, I am torn between OD/ID of 12mm/10mm vs 12mm/8mm.
> 
> Anyone who have finished their build can chime in on which ID should I go for with the bitspower fittings?


I would go with 12mmOD/10mmID, just my opinion









Jeffinsaw


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> I would go with 12mmOD/10mmID, just my opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeffinsaw


yeah I really dont see any need for that thick of a wall with 12/8mm


----------



## radicalrev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> yeah I really dont see any need for that thick of a wall with 12/8mm


Just notified by the local shop here that they dont carry 12x10mm tubes anymore.

However the 12x8mm tubes are available for only 10usd/2 meters.

Should i just order the 8mm id tubes and call it a day or should i order it from E22 for the 10mm id ones?


----------



## Kenjiwing

This acrylic stuff looks great. How are you guys handling drain ports? Im assuming QDCs cant be used with acrylic tube so how would you setup a drain port/fill port?


----------



## Krusher33

A lot of guys are using 10/8mm tubing so I think that 12/8mm will be fine. I just don't think it's as crystal clear?

Otherwise shipping from E22 would be another 40usd for you wouldn't it?


----------



## Kenjiwing

A buying guide would be useful.. im currently kind of lost on the 2 types of tubing available. Is there a advantage to one or the other? Id like to use the BP C47 fittings at least for testing but ill also order some of the PF fittings.

What would be the best type of tubing and what inside silicone and fittings will you need to buy?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> A buying guide would be useful.. im currently kind of lost on the 2 types of tubing available. Is there a advantage to one or the other? Id like to use the BP C47 fittings at least for testing but ill also order some of the PF fittings.
> 
> What would be the best type of tubing and what inside silicone and fittings will you need to buy?


It's more simple than with regular tubing.

The Bitspower fittings are 12mm, so your acrylic tube needs to have an outer diameter of exactly 12mm. It doesn't really matter what the inner diameter is, 10mm or 8mm is fine.

The silicone tubing needs to be smaller diameter than the inside of your acrylic tubing. As long as it's not too loose, it'll do its job of providing shape when the acrylic tube softens.


----------



## Krusher33

I had found some fuel line at an auto parts store that fitted perfectly in the 12/10mm tube but it was too thin walled. So i bought another tubing that fits inside that tubing making it thick and still quite flexible. It was something like $3 a package.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev*
> 
> Just notified by the local shop here that they dont carry 12x10mm tubes anymore.
> 
> However the 12x8mm tubes are available for only 10usd/2 meters.
> 
> Should i just order the 8mm id tubes and call it a day or should i order it from E22 for the 10mm id ones?


I am using 10/8 and with my dcp 4.0 pump am seeing great temps. What are you going to use for coolant?

Also If you are going to be bending the tubing I might suggest something other than BP fittings. They fit tight but are a little more shallow and I hear they are only good for straight runs.

If you are bending I would feel safer with push fittings.

By the way. Thought my build was done. This is what happens when you use distilled with mayhems instead of deionized. Mayhems Pastel "Pure Black"


----------



## Krusher33

I think you're thinking of the C48 fittings which are indeed short and only have 1 rubber ring inside. The C47's are the recommended ones with 2 rubber rings inside. I don't think they're shallow at all but that's a personal opinion of it.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Question, does acrylic tubing have the problem of staining with colour coolant like normal tubing? I am about to start a scratch made all Acrylic case and was thinking about using copper tubing and having it nickle plated. but acrylic tubing would be better.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I think you're thinking of the C48 fittings which are indeed short and only have 1 rubber ring inside. The C47's are the recommended ones with 2 rubber rings inside. I don't think they're shallow at all but that's a personal opinion of it.


Yeah the C 48 are shallow and even the C 47 are still shallow compared to locking push fittings. Just depending on the type of bends you have. With some almost acute bends there not much there for the tubes to grab onto.

It is all preference though I guess.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> Question, does acrylic tubing have the problem of staining with colour coolant like normal tubing? I am about to start a scratch made all Acrylic case and was thinking about using copper tubing and having it nickle plated. but acrylic tubing would be better.


Apparently acrylic doesnt stain at all really. I will be emptying my loop in a day or so and will take a look.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> .
> 
> It is all preference though I guess.
> Apparently acrylic doesnt stain at all really. I will be emptying my loop in a day or so and will take a look.


Thank you, and what size acrylic tubing will I want? I am using 7/16 ID, but I know i be going to want to only worry about OD right? and how much flow do you lose using the 90 degrees in the system?


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I am using 10/8 and with my dcp 4.0 pump am seeing great temps. What are you going to use for coolant?
> 
> Also If you are going to be bending the tubing I might suggest something other than BP fittings. They fit tight but are a little more shallow and I hear they are only good for straight runs.
> 
> If you are bending I would feel safer with push fittings.
> **


What fittings did you use with your build in the picture? Do you have a manufactuer/model reccomendation?


----------



## Darkshadow74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> Thank you, and what size acrylic tubing will I want? I am using 7/16 ID, but I know i be going to want to only worry about OD right? and how much flow do you lose using the 90 degrees in the system?


I am in the US, so I am ordering from Taps Plastics, so its in inches.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> I am in the US, so I am ordering from Taps Plastics, so its in inches.


What sizes did you buy that fit the c47/c48 or the taps?


----------



## Darkshadow74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> What sizes did you buy that fit the c47/c48 or the taps?


I not sure what size I need, I would use the c47/c48 to connect to blocks, but just not sure about the size of tube I need. Also how much flow do you lose with all 90 degrees in the lines?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> Thank you, and what size acrylic tubing will I want? I am using 7/16 ID, but I know i be going to want to only worry about OD right? and how much flow do you lose using the 90 degrees in the system?


Have you already got the acrylic? it's 7/16th? I would recommend metric. Yes only worry about OD
Martins liquid lab did a test. I'm not sure where but you need A LOT of 90 deg bends to decrease the temp even a little.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> What fittings did you use with your build in the picture? Do you have a manufactuer/model reccomendation?


Phobya. Cheap and I like the way they look. Very reliable.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> I not sure what size I need, I would use the c47/c48 to connect to blocks, but just not sure about the size of tube I need. Also how much flow do you lose with all 90 degrees in the lines?


Again 12 or 10 mm OD. Do you mean the c47 for all the blocks of the gpu blocks?


----------



## Darkshadow74

I havent order the acrylic yet, I am squaring out what all I need before doing that. Problem I ran into is I need a company that is US side, and the fittings I need for my blocks and size of tube I'll need (which I see I need 12 or 10mm, so I need to find a place that has mm tubing). I am sorry if i am repeating myself and a little scatter brained, i am getting parts for my 4770k build today, and about as hyped as a hamster given 3 red bulls and 40 pounds of sugar, then told to I cant run the wheel.


----------



## Krusher33

Performance PC's has 12/10 or 10/8 tubings and lots of fittings.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Performance PC's has 12/10 or 10/8 tubings and lots of fittings.


Thank you, now is the difference between the pf22 12 and pf22 12.2 is the height right? which would u suggest for a loop? I only have 1 card and when I get 2 I probably use the EK acrylic bridge.


----------



## Krusher33

I've seen them both used and they both looks good. I think they both work well too. So really it's a matter of your preference in looks.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I've seen them both used and they both looks good. I think they both work well too. So really it's a matter of your preference in looks.


Ok thanks. this going to look great in my acrylic case I am making.


----------



## Ferguson005

For anyone using 12mm/10mm, 3/8" silicone RUBBER CORD (don't get the foam) works much better than TUBE. You can get it here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-silicone-rubber-cords/=n2s354. It comes in 3' lengths


----------



## fakeblood

Ive been looking to get some acrylic tube locally, but all Im able to find is 12-8mm or 10-8, would there be in performance or increased difficulty bending the thicker walled tubing?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Ive been looking to get some acrylic tube locally, but all Im able to find is 12-8mm or 10-8, would there be in performance or increased difficulty bending the thicker walled tubing?


So far I am finding that with my 10/8mm acrylic I am getting 3 deg hotter on hottest core then my 12/10mm tubing. i5 3570k - 5.0 ghz - 1.528 v. Still have more testing to do.

As for bending I am going to assume you will just need to heat it up a bit longer.

I doubt there would be a performance hit or more difficulty.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *radicalrev*
> 
> Just notified by the local shop here that they dont carry 12x10mm tubes anymore.
> 
> However the 12x8mm tubes are available for only 10usd/2 meters.
> 
> Should i just order the 8mm id tubes and call it a day or should i order it from E22 for the 10mm id ones?
> 
> 
> 
> I am using 10/8 and with my dcp 4.0 pump am seeing great temps. What are you going to use for coolant?
> 
> Also If you are going to be bending the tubing I might suggest something other than BP fittings. They fit tight but are a little more shallow and I hear they are only good for straight runs.
> 
> If you are bending I would feel safer with push fittings.
> 
> By the way. Thought my build was done. This is what happens when you use distilled with mayhems instead of deionized. Mayhems Pastel "Pure Black"
Click to expand...

No,thats what happens when you use Mayhems. full stop.


----------



## Baron C

Less 'Pure Black' more 'Sweet Hot Choclate'

Keep waiting for Willy Wonka and some Umpa Lumpas to walk across the inside of your computer.
:-D


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Less 'Pure Black' more 'Sweet Hot Choclate'
> 
> Keep waiting for Willy Wonka and some Umpa Lumpas to walk across the inside of your computer.
> :-D


I can predict what will happen,Mayhems will say its acid and its user error.

TTL had the same issue with his rig and got slapped with Mayhems default answer...shame that when TTL actually tested the fluid it was actually slightly alkaline,not acid.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can predict what will happen,Mayhems will say its acid and its user error.
> 
> TTL had the same issue with his rig and got slapped with Mayhems default answer...shame that when TTL actually tested the fluid it was actually slightly alkaline,not acid.


Apparently the mayhem dude at the mayhem thread also said that ttl tried to cheat them and when they asked for a sample of the fluid he didn't provide and he was running xspc fluid instead. He also said he has a bunch of proof of TTLs "treachery" on saved MSN logs. I asked him to provide some and he ignored me so no proof there. I don't know who actually caused the problem mayhem or TTL but the way the handle some things gets me really mad not professional at all


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can predict what will happen,Mayhems will say its acid and its user error.
> 
> TTL had the same issue with his rig and got slapped with Mayhems default answer...shame that when TTL actually tested the fluid it was actually slightly alkaline,not acid.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Apparently the mayhem dude at the mayhem thread also said that ttl tried to cheat them and when they asked for a sample of the fluid he didn't provide and he was running xspc fluid instead. He also said he has a bunch of proof of TTLs "treachery" on saved MSN logs. I asked him to provide some and he ignored me so no proof there. I don't know who actually caused the problem mayhem or TTL but the way the handle some things gets me really mad not professional at all


Either way I used distilled instead of deionized. Which obviously makes a difference. It was user error. Mayhems is sending me two 250 ml bottles of pastel green. I cant complain. Every company can makes mistakes. It seems to me they have realized that and are trying to change the way they handle things.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Apparently acrylic doesnt stain at all really. I will be emptying my loop in a day or so and will take a look.


So did it stain? have you got it changed out yet? Just wanted to get an update.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> So did it stain? have you got it changed out yet? Just wanted to get an update.


Yeah sorry been busy playing Last Light lol .

No staining whatsoever. Just awaiting my pastel green from mayhem now.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Yeah sorry been busy playing Last Light lol .
> 
> No staining whatsoever. Just awaiting my pastel green from mayhem now.


Its all good, thank you for letting me know, I am sold now. I am even going to put acrylic tubing in my case before I build my full Scratch build Acrylic case. And here is a link about Primochill Acrylic tubing.. its here on OC.net


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> Its all good, thank you for letting me know, I am sold now. I am even going to put acrylic tubing in my case before I build my full Scratch build Acrylic case. And here is a link about Primochill Acrylic tubing.. its here on OC.net


Yeah just went through the thread. Personally Im not a hue fan of the fittings. They are a little bulky to me. But props for etting into the acrylic game. I know EK has some hard pipe fittings that they may be coming out with that look nice. Hopefully they will be for the 10/8mm or 12/10mm tubing.


----------



## Darkshadow74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Yeah just went through the thread. Personally Im not a hue fan of the fittings. They are a little bulky to me. But props for etting into the acrylic game. I know EK has some hard pipe fittings that they may be coming out with that look nice. Hopefully they will be for the 10/8mm or 12/10mm tubing.


what fittings are you using again?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> what fittings are you using again?


They are phobya push fittings. They are on ppc's under barb fittings i think. I would send link but on my brutal phone.

The fittings are very cheap. E22 push fittings in my opinion are the nicest though. More expensive.

Didnt notice they sold them on ppc till after I got the phobya ones.

But i found that I had to put the fittings on the tubing then screw it in as one piece. With the E22 ones they are all smooth and would be very hard to tighten. They are tightened from the inside first. Taking acrylic tubing out of these fittings is very hard with the fitting in the block . It all worked out.

Wow you just asked the one question. Sorry Im rambling. Good day.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> what fittings are you using again?
> 
> 
> 
> They are phobya push fittings. They are on ppc's under barb fittings i think. I would send link but on my brutal phone.
> 
> The fittings are very cheap. E22 push fittings in my opinion are the nicest though. More expensive.
> 
> Didnt notice they sold them on ppc till after I got the phobya ones.
> 
> But i found that I had to put the fittings on the tubing then screw it in as one piece. With the E22 ones they are all smooth and would be very hard to tighten. They are tightened from the inside first. Taking acrylic tubing out of these fittings is very hard with the fitting in the block . It all worked out.
> 
> Wow you just asked the one question. Sorry Im rambling. Good day.
Click to expand...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853


----------



## Darkshadow74

Was hoping to find some 12mm or even 13mm of that type by phobya but not having luck.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> Was hoping to find some 12mm or even 13mm of that type by phobya but not having luck.


yeah those might be a little harder to track down. I think I saw them somewhere on the pipe bending thread. Try poking around there.

forgot about the actual site

http://www.e22.biz/E22fittings2.aspx


----------



## yannickhk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> yeah those might be a little harder to track down. I think I saw them somewhere on the pipe bending thread. Try poking around there.
> 
> forgot about the actual site
> 
> http://www.e22.biz/E22fittings2.aspx


I gotta ask, wouldn't the BP SLI fittings do the trick? Would they hold those acrylic pipes in place or would they pop out with pressure?

I have been thinking about going with acrylic when I upgrade my GPUs. But I really, and I mean really







, don't like those phobya and E22 fittings. But I am concerned about how tight those C47 would hold those pipes. If one of them pops ..... yikes


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yannickhk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> yeah those might be a little harder to track down. I think I saw them somewhere on the pipe bending thread. Try poking around there.
> 
> forgot about the actual site
> 
> http://www.e22.biz/E22fittings2.aspx
> 
> 
> 
> I gotta ask, wouldn't the BP SLI fittings do the trick? Would they hold those acrylic pipes in place or would they pop out with pressure?
> 
> I have been thinking about going with acrylic when I upgrade my GPUs. But I really, and I mean really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , don't like those phobya and E22 fittings. But I am concerned about how tight those C47 would hold those pipes. If one of them pops ..... yikes
Click to expand...

C47's work fine,I have yet to hear any horror stories.
I still recommend push fit tho.


----------



## yannickhk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> C47's work fine,I have yet to hear any horror stories.
> I still recommend push fit tho.


Okay, thanks B-negative









I guess that the push fit would be more adequate, but man, they're awful IMO. Looks are in the eyes of the beholder


----------



## Lovidore

Any news on the primochill push fittings? I recall seeing that they plan to head down the acrylic tubing route.


----------



## icostin

No news for now, I've been waiting for those " PrimoChill Rigid Ghost compression fittings" too.....







Strange that they call them compression, the acrylic tube doesn't compress.....No I'm not bringing it up again....this compression subject ....


----------



## Krusher33

They're probably trying to figure out how to compress without breaking the tube.









They'll probably have







moment and change the name to push fit or something. Either that or they plan to use the same technique as their reservoir.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

There are o ring style compressions available that work in a similar way to the metal ferrule versions for acrylic tube and traditional plastic tube.


----------



## Krusher33

I guess I'm confused as to the purpose of the ferule in a compression fitting.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I guess I'm confused as to the purpose of the ferule in a compression fitting.


When you tighten a normal compression,the ferrules edges roll into the pipe,cutting into it and making a seal.


----------



## Krusher33

I thought it was bending the metal pipe or forming tubes. Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## Krusher33

Speak of the devil: Primochill announced their 1/2" Rigid Ghost fittings on facebook. Said they're on their way to resellers now.


----------



## nicedart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Speak of the devil: Primochill announced their 1/2" Rigid Ghost fittings on facebook. Said they're on their way to resellers now.


You find a price?


----------



## Simplynicko

sweeeeeeeet (subed)


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> You find a price?


Not yet. I did ask but no one answered.


----------



## Darkshadow74

They are 6.95 per. here is a look at them at FrozenCPU


----------



## nicedart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkshadow74*
> 
> They are 6.95 per. here is a look at them at FrozenCPU


bad link


----------



## Darkshadow74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> bad link


Sorry here you go. FrozenCPU.com Primochill


----------



## nicedart

Here they are: ($6.95)

Black

Blue

Purple

Red (looks pink)


Silver

White


----------



## Tounii

Any idea if these fittings will work with the e22 tube?
http://www.e22.biz/E22tubing2.aspx


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tounii*
> 
> Any idea if these fittings will work with the e22 tube?
> http://www.e22.biz/E22tubing2.aspx


no they are made to fit with their own tubing only. I forget what size they are but they made a thread on here and have a couple videos that explains the size.

Im very sure ek will be relleasing there version of pipe compression fitti.gs very soon. Im surpprised they havnt already. Hopefully they will be for standard sizes.


----------



## Simplynicko

DO THESE LEECH PLASTISIZER? (trolling)

seriously tho, are these gonna work properly? anyone have links to reviews? im down for an acrylic build.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

They only work with 1/2" OD tube rather than metric.

Not cool but should be easier for you Muricans to get different tube,too expensive by far for each fitting tho.

I have had a cunning plan...Bitspower D plugs...on the inside of Acrylic tube rather than the outside like most fittings.....but is it FTW?

TO THE LAB!!!!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They only work with 1/2" OD tube rather than metric.
> 
> Not cool but should be easier for you Muricans to get different tube,too expensive by far for each fitting tho.
> 
> I have had a cunning plan...Bitspower D plugs...on the inside of Acrylic tube rather than the outside like most fittings.....but is it FTW?
> 
> TO THE LAB!!!!


Ha ha, this I gotta see. Video I hope?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have had a cunning plan...Bitspower D plugs...on the inside of Acrylic tube rather than the outside like most fittings.....but is it FTW?
> 
> TO THE LAB!!!!


Great idea. I briefly looked at those fittings but BP doesn't show the size on their design drawing. It's like 17 or 18mm or so?


----------



## teamrushpntball

So here's my stab at acrylic tubing, and a few upgrades from ColdZero while I was at it:

New Additions:
All new matte black Bitspower C47 fittings (Mighty snug I might add, was a bit worried)
E22 Acrylic Tubing
EK Single link bridges replacing the large clunky parallel bridge.
ColdZero Top 240 Hexx Grill
CZ Side 480 Hexx Grills
CZ Midplate
CZ PSU Plate
CZ Backplate
CZ 5.25 Side and back covers
CZ Motherboard Tray
CZ MB Extension with comb cuts for my cables
AND
CZ Front Panel with sexy red light box









Sorry for the quality, coming from my Note 2, and I swear that it isn't this dusty.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Anyone tested the primo fittings? Theres a post in the gallery thread saying they are awful and dont even hold the tubing. I find that very confusing.


----------



## Krusher33

If I had to guess, they're trying to use E22 tubing or something. They have to remember, they're fittings for imperial sized tubings.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Great idea. I briefly looked at those fittings but BP doesn't show the size on their design drawing. It's like 17 or 18mm or so?


http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/17/5bzd.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/35/xylh.jpg/


----------



## DaaQ

I've got some inbound hopefully by tomorrow I'll report back.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> I've got some inbound hopefully by tomorrow I'll report back.


Sounds good.. looks like they are already out of stock lol


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They only work with 1/2" OD tube rather than metric.
> 
> Not cool but should be easier for you Muricans to get different tube,too expensive by far for each fitting tho.
> 
> I have had a cunning plan...Bitspower D plugs...on the inside of Acrylic tube rather than the outside like most fittings.....but is it FTW?
> 
> TO THE LAB!!!!


I tried it out a bit when I was installing my D-plugs but I couldn't find any tubing that was just the right size, it was always just too small or just too big. The tubing that was close looked really clunky being that wide too.


----------



## DaaQ

Stupid question but, what are D plugs meant to be used for ?


----------



## mattcube64

I can't freaking wait to report back!

I saw the thread where a guy said it sucks - but I have a really hard time believing that. We all saw the video, and they even said, specifically, it's a very firm hold.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Stupid question but, what are D plugs meant to be used for ?


GPU bridging.


----------



## Krusher33

Have you tested it yet B Neg?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Have you tested it yet B Neg?


Cant find tube with the specific bore so I think its dead in the water.

I welcome anyone that can find the tube tho.


----------



## somebadlemonade

hmm, maybe a 16.5mm endmill or drill bit plus some 16mm ID tubing?

or is that too much work, or would that make the tube walls too thin

if it were copper you could just expand the tubing, maybe, heat up the ends of the tubing that's just too small and push it over one of the fittings without o-rings in it?


----------



## Krusher33

He's big on looks and I'm not sure how that would... look.


----------



## Inglewood78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> I can't freaking wait to report back!
> 
> I saw the thread where a guy said it sucks - but I have a really hard time believing that. We all saw the video, and they even said, specifically, it's a very firm hold.


I just got the primochill rigid fittings today and they hold the tube really tight. Not sure why it didn't work out that way for the other guy...


----------



## nicedart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inglewood78*
> 
> I just got the primochill rigid fittings today and they hold the tube really tight. Not sure why it didn't work out that way for the other guy...


Any chance you get red? I'm curious if they look pink like the photo's or actually red.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> Any chance you get red? I'm curious if they look pink like the photo's or actually red.


They are almost as dark red as the bitspower, not pink at all.


----------



## Inglewood78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> Any chance you get red? I'm curious if they look pink like the photo's or actually red.


The fittings or tube? I got red tubes, black fittings


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inglewood78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> Any chance you get red? I'm curious if they look pink like the photo's or actually red.
> 
> 
> 
> The fittings or tube? I got red tubes, black fittings
Click to expand...

Actually looks pretty good way better than I thought it would look from primochill's video. Good job


----------



## Simplynicko

are people having success with primochill's new fittings or is water going to explode over everyone's rigs?


----------



## nicedart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inglewood78*
> 
> The fittings or tube? I got red tubes, black fittings


the fittings.

Great job on the pipe. I always prefer square runs. Looks so much cleaner. After running thousands of feet of emt, I'm a little picky about my runs. Unfortunately acrylic isnt in the budget for the build right now. Maybe when I redo it in the spring.


----------



## nicedart

Another thought... Has anyone ever put heat to normal tubing? If you had the foam inside it would hold shape. Could be handy for some short tight turns without going nuts with fittings.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> Another thought... Has anyone ever put heat to normal tubing? If you had the foam inside it would hold shape. Could be handy for some short tight turns without going nuts with fittings.


Huh?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> Another thought... Has anyone ever put heat to normal tubing? If you had the foam inside it would hold shape. Could be handy for some short tight turns without going nuts with fittings.


Like flexible tube might hold shape after being heated?

If you are talking about acrylic tubing that is what is being done in this thread.

Sorry not sure what you mean.


----------



## nicedart

Yea normal flexible tubing being heated. If you try to bend it to short it kinks. I'll try it when I get a chance, was just wondering if any one else had done this. Sorry to derail.


----------



## Sunreeper

Never heard of anybody doing that


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> Yea normal flexible tubing being heated. If you try to bend it to short it kinks. I'll try it when I get a chance, was just wondering if any one else had done this. Sorry to derail.


ohh I gotcha. No worries it seems some what related. Could work let us know.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicedart*
> 
> Yea normal flexible tubing being heated. If you try to bend it to short it kinks. I'll try it when I get a chance, was just wondering if any one else had done this. Sorry to derail.


After you are done bending it, immediately stick it in some cold water to sort of "flash" it. It would be worth a try.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## mattcube64

Yeah - the Primochill Rigid fittings for acrylic tubing just aren't secure enough. I use a push fitting - and boy, that thing couldn't be ripped off with my Jeep. And then I screw on one of Primochill's fittings to their 1/2 OD tube, and it pops right off with little effort. I just don't trust it. Sucks, as I much prefer the black color as it matches much better. But at the end of the day, I don't want to trust my ~$5K investment to an insecure fitting.

So, more money! Woo - I'm about tapped out; this has gotten SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive than I intended. Sure is fun; but these ~$100 and $200 orders are rapidly killing my wallet. I really hope I'm close to done. I still need to find something to put inside the tubing so it doesn't collapse - but I just can't find anything while scouring the net. I'll try a plumbing shop about 45miles away later this week, maybe.

The Primochill Ghost Rigid Acrylic fittings just aren't very tight - period. Would they work? Maybe... possibly even probably. But I would hesitate to say "definitely." And honestly, I need to know my tubing is "definitely" not going to spill water everywhere. I'll hopefully be able to return them to frozencpu; but I imagine I'm stuck with the ~$40 of 1/2 tube I bought. But the e22 10mm tube and push fittings is a MUCH more secure solution.


----------



## Sentinel Prime

So guys wassup with these *****s http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c633/s2021/list/p1/b46/PrimoChill-Tubing_-_Rigid_Acrylic-12_OD_Rigid_Compression-Page1.html


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mattcube64*
> 
> Yeah - the Primochill Rigid fittings for acrylic tubing just aren't secure enough. I use a push fitting - and boy, that thing couldn't be ripped off with my Jeep. And then I screw on one of Primochill's fittings to their 1/2 OD tube, and it pops right off with little effort. I just don't trust it. Sucks, as I much prefer the black color as it matches much better. But at the end of the day, I don't want to trust my ~$5K investment to an insecure fitting.
> 
> So, more money! Woo - I'm about tapped out; this has gotten SIGNIFICANTLY more expensive than I intended. Sure is fun; but these ~$100 and $200 orders are rapidly killing my wallet. I really hope I'm close to done. I still need to find something to put inside the tubing so it doesn't collapse - but I just can't find anything while scouring the net. I'll try a plumbing shop about 45miles away later this week, maybe.
> 
> The Primochill Ghost Rigid Acrylic fittings just aren't very tight - period. Would they work? Maybe... possibly even probably. But I would hesitate to say "definitely." And honestly, I need to know my tubing is "definitely" not going to spill water everywhere. I'll hopefully be able to return them to frozencpu; but I imagine I'm stuck with the ~$40 of 1/2 tube I bought. But the e22 10mm tube and push fittings is a MUCH more secure solution.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you for posting that. When I first saw the primochill setup I decided I would use that for my new build, but after what you said I think I will stay away. I REALLY want to do rigid tubing, but I actually move my case quite a lot, so I need something that is safe, secure, and won't leak after a month.

I tihnk I'll go with what you just said - e22.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Revised cable management and SSD placement.
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02818_zps3d190092.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02821_zpsfe45cbff.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02822_zpse1c97fa2.jpg.html

Watercooling parts placement. I love how the pump sits just in front of the cut/design on the aluminium plate.
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02845_zps4f87197b.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02843_zpse3ae3cdd.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02853_zps99cfc7d8.jpg.html

Phobya and Vengeance.
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02849_zps8df9df59.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02848_zpsae4da265.jpg.html

Can you guys imagine the acrylic tube routing possibilities!? I am waiting on a few parts from Aquatuning, then I can actually install the rad and pump, then route those tubes!









MetalliAcid


----------



## fakeblood

some work ive done so far

Took a bit of time to practice and get the bends right. But so far im happy with the results. Just need to figure how im going to mount the res now then can do the last two pipes. Also need to fix the bow of the GPU

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09806_zps44a4eef3.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC09807_zps6d723c69.jpg.html


----------



## Solonowarion

Lookin good man. It takes a bit of trial and error for sure.


----------



## icostin

Nice build keep up the good work.


----------



## Abenlog

Has anyone bought acrylic tubing from US Plastics?


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Has anyone bought acrylic tubing from US Plastics?


Yep I bought 24 feet from them of 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID acrylic tubing. Dirt cheap imo


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Has anyone bought acrylic tubing from US Plastics?
> 
> 
> 
> Yep I bought 24 feet from them of 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID acrylic tubing. Dirt cheap imo
Click to expand...

So its basically the same size as the e22 acrylic fittings? Does it work with the bitspower fittings? And do you know if they ship to Canada?


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> So its basically the same size as the e22 acrylic fittings? Does it work with the bitspower fittings? And do you know if they ship to Canada?


Even if they don't I will be buying some(if they fit) and can ship it out to you, if you pay for shipping









I was also thinking about trying out the Primochill fittings, to see if they work with this tubing. The Phobya's are of course an option, as well.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> So its basically the same size as the e22 acrylic fittings? Does it work with the bitspower fittings? And do you know if they ship to Canada?
> 
> 
> 
> Even if they don't I will be buying some(if they fit) and can ship it out to you, if you pay for shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was also thinking about trying out the Primochill fittings, to see if they work with this tubing. The Phobya's are of course an option, as well.
Click to expand...

Thank you so much! I'd be really grateful if you did and I'd be more than happy to pay


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Has anyone bought acrylic tubing from US Plastics?
> 
> 
> 
> Yep I bought 24 feet from them of 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID acrylic tubing. Dirt cheap imo
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So its basically the same size as the e22 acrylic fittings? Does it work with the bitspower fittings? And do you know if they ship to Canada?
Click to expand...

No. E22 fittings are metric. 12mm and 10mm outer diameters. They will not work. The 1/2" Primochill fittings might though.


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Has anyone bought acrylic tubing from US Plastics?
> 
> 
> 
> Yep I bought 24 feet from them of 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID acrylic tubing. Dirt cheap imo
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So its basically the same size as the e22 acrylic fittings? Does it work with the bitspower fittings? And do you know if they ship to Canada?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No. E22 fittings are metric. 12mm and 10mm outer diameters. They will not work. The 1/2" Primochill fittings might though.
Click to expand...

I took a quick look at his build log looks like he's using the the bitspower fittings though. Hopefully we'll get confirmation from him


----------



## Boweezie

Unfortunately, the acrylic tubing from US Plastics will not fit the BitsPower SLI fittings. However, I used a metal filer to sand down the edges and made them fit. It take some time to file down all the edges, but it is worth it since the tubing is about $0.31 per feet.


----------



## Abenlog

Anyone who is looking for acrylic tubing, Sunreeper and I are going to order some to my place, and then I will cut (to lower shipping costs) and ship out to anyone who wants it. The reason for this is because they charge a minimum of $16 to ship. IF you want to join us in this, just shoot me a PM.


----------



## sirhamlet

Hi,
Do we know how long of an acrylic tubing run we can make (vertical or horizontal) before it gets unstable?
I would like to run the tubing top left all the way down to the bottom of my case (900D) and then horizontally across the bottom right to left.

-Should I place a coupling in the middle of both runs?
-By chance does anyone have an idea for some type of structure that could secure the tubing to the side of the case but away from the panels to add stability?

or am I way overthinking this and just make the strait runs


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sirhamlet*
> 
> Hi,
> Do we know how long of an acrylic tubing run we can make (vertical or horizontal) before it gets unstable?
> I would like to run the tubing top left all the way down to the bottom of my case (900D) and then horizontally across the bottom right to left.
> 
> -Should I place a coupling in the middle of both runs?
> -By chance does anyone have an idea for some type of structure that could secure the tubing to the side of the case but away from the panels to add stability?
> 
> or am I way overthinking this and just make the strait runs


The best person to ask would be Jameswalt1 as he has done acrylic tubing in a 900D.

From his thread, seen here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1380883/build-log-900csq-900d-maxed-out-everything-watercooled-acrylic-tubing

It looks like he chose to do a coupling. I'd stay on the safe side and follow suit but I'm definitely interested in knowing the longest run possible.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sirhamlet*
> 
> Hi,
> Do we know how long of an acrylic tubing run we can make (vertical or horizontal) before it gets unstable?
> I would like to run the tubing top left all the way down to the bottom of my case (900D) and then horizontally across the bottom right to left.
> 
> -Should I place a coupling in the middle of both runs?
> -By chance does anyone have an idea for some type of structure that could secure the tubing to the side of the case but away from the panels to add stability?
> 
> or am I way overthinking this and just make the strait runs


the 1m sections i have here hold their own weight easily,you can have a run from one corner to the other no problem


----------



## Macho Man

whats the difference between the push fit PF12 and PF12.2?


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macho Man*
> 
> whats the difference between the push fit PF12 and PF12.2?


I would also like to know this. Considering going the hard tubing route, it just looks so clean, and I would love being able to put so much time into something so unique and rare. I'll probably end up going the Primochill rouote, but I have a few questions. First and foremost, is this for FOUR pieces of 24in tube, or four six inch pieces of tube. Also, what do you guys use to cut the tube cleanly, and without cracks? I'll leave a pic of my current rig here, although if I upgrade I'll likely go white fittings with blue tube.


----------



## MetallicAcid

First tube bent!!

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02892-2_zpsb8e89528.jpg.html
http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC02890-2_zps0b57fb4f.jpg.html










MetallicAcid


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> I would also like to know this. Considering going the hard tubing route, it just looks so clean, and I would love being able to put so much time into something so unique and rare. I'll probably end up going the Primochill rouote, but I have a few questions. First and foremost, is this for FOUR pieces of 24in tube, or four six inch pieces of tube. Also, what do you guys use to cut the tube cleanly, and without cracks? I'll leave a pic of my current rig here, although if I upgrade I'll likely go white fittings with blue tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


From what I see there is a difference in the inner bore, or the ID of one mm. Your best bet would be to email PPC asking which is the correct fitting for the tubing you want to use or vice versa. Also, the Primochill is a 4 pack of 24". I haven't worked with the tubing yet but my order should be coming soon.


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> From what I see there is a difference in the inner bore, or the ID of one mm. Your best bet would be to email PPC asking which is the correct fitting for the tubing you want to use or vice versa. Also, the Primochill is a 4 pack of 24". I haven't worked with the tubing yet but my order should be coming soon.


+rep, thanks! I'll probably go with the primochill fittings too, they'll be secure enough and I love their color options.


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> +rep, thanks! I'll probably go with the primochill fittings too, they'll be secure enough and I love their color options.


Can't wait to see your results! I have the E22 8/10 on it's way to me right now. I got the Phobya push fittings with that.


----------



## Inglewood78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> I would also like to know this. Considering going the hard tubing route, it just looks so clean, and I would love being able to put so much time into something so unique and rare. I'll probably end up going the Primochill rouote, but I have a few questions. First and foremost, is this for FOUR pieces of 24in tube, or four six inch pieces of tube. Also, what do you guys use to cut the tube cleanly, and without cracks? I'll leave a pic of my current rig here, although if I upgrade I'll likely go white fittings with blue tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SNIP


My whole route took 1 pack (4 x 24inches). Hard to say with yours but 2 packs will definitely be enough IF you don't make too many mistakes. The thing with these tubes is that you get like 1 chance to match up points. Once you bend and take out the inner silicone tube, its very hard to push that thing in and reheat, rebend. Also, if you care about square turns and making everything line up, measure 5 times, cut once.

Link

You can just use a small hand saw to cut/score it, break it off, and sand down the edges.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inglewood78*
> 
> My whole route took 1 pack (4 x 24inches). Hard to say with yours but 2 packs will definitely be enough IF you don't make too many mistakes. The thing with these tubes is that you get like 1 chance to match up points. Once you bend and take out the inner silicone tube, its very hard to push that thing in and reheat, rebend. Also, if you can about square turns and making everything line up, measure 5 times, cut once.
> 
> Link
> 
> You can just use a small hand saw to cut/score it, break it off, and sand down the edges.


To re-bend the tubing, it's not 100% important that the silicone is in the tube before heating. I have reheated the outside of the acrylic without the silicone just enough to be able to bend it just slightly, then I slid the silicone tubing that was lubed up with olive oil. It worked like a charm. The important thing to remember is to not warm it too much otherwise there is a risk that the tubing will collapse on itself.

MetallicAcid


----------



## Kenjiwing

EK tubing and fittings are out. They look to be just C47s but I could be wrong.

"These sets are available in two different dimensions - 10/12mm and 12/16mm (ID/OD)"

http://www.ekwb.com/news/372/19/EK-HD-Tubes-and-Adapters-released/


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> EK tubing and fittings are out. They look to be just C47s but I could be wrong.
> 
> "These sets are available in two different dimensions - 10/12mm and 12/16mm (ID/OD)"
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/372/19/EK-HD-Tubes-and-Adapters-released/


12/16?! Holy cow!


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> EK tubing and fittings are out. They look to be just C47s but I could be wrong.
> 
> "These sets are available in two different dimensions - 10/12mm and 12/16mm (ID/OD)"
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/news/372/19/EK-HD-Tubes-and-Adapters-released/


Finally!!!! Time to purchase a bunch for my build!

Jeffinslaw


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Finally!!!! Time to purchase a bunch for my build!
> 
> Jeffinslaw


While it is exciting to see some competition, from what I could gather from the article this was basically just another vendor providing what bitspower has been offering for some time now, crystal link. Primochill has (as far as I know) still been the only one to go for a true acrylic product, embracing people completely replacing their soft tubing. And that's why I'll be going with them. Plus white fittings with blue tube is ganna look SO SICK.


----------



## Inglewood78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> While it is exciting to see some competition, from what I could gather from the article this was basically just another vendor providing what bitspower has been offering for some time now, crystal link. Primochill has (as far as I know) still been the only one to go for a true acrylic product, embracing people completely replacing their soft tubing. And that's why I'll be going with them. Plus white fittings with blue tube is ganna look SO SICK.


IMO the biggest plus of primochill tubing is that it's colored, so you can run water instead of dye. I purchased some tubes from tap plastics (clear) to practice with and I notice the primochill tube walls are a little thicker, which helps out on aggressive bends without distortion,


----------



## sirhamlet

Do we know if the two rubber rings inside the C47 can be replaced? I wanted to do some fitting tests and didn't want to destroy a fitting.
thanks
Greg


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> While it is exciting to see some competition, from what I could gather from the article this was basically just another vendor providing what bitspower has been offering for some time now, crystal link. Primochill has (as far as I know) still been the only one to go for a true acrylic product, embracing people completely replacing their soft tubing. And that's why I'll be going with them. Plus white fittings with blue tube is ganna look SO SICK.


The EK fittings have a locking rig like the Primochill fittings. The EK fittings are branded for copper and acrylic.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> The EK fittings have a locking rig like the Primochill fittings. The EK fittings are branded for copper and acrylic.
> 
> Jeffinslaw


i don't see any mention of a lock ring in the ek article about those fittings


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebadlemonade*
> 
> i don't see any mention of a lock ring in the ek article about those fittings


Here's the original thinkcell page:

http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/compression-fitting-for-metalacrylic-tubing

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Sunreeper

Holy cow hope their cheap in Canada so I can finally do a hard acrylic build with bitspower fittings


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Holy cow hope their cheap in Canada so I can finally do a hard acrylic build with bitspower fittings


Go to EK's shopping page for the prices.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Here's the original thinkcell page:
> 
> http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/compression-fitting-for-metalacrylic-tubing
> 
> Jeffinslaw


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/p/f/pfs-2_800.jpg
if you look at these fittings that don't look the same, they look like different fittings


----------



## ZytheEKS

Does anyone know where I can get 3/4" OD push fittings for acrylic tubing?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> While it is exciting to see some competition, from what I could gather from the article this was basically just another vendor providing what bitspower has been offering for some time now, crystal link. Primochill has (as far as I know) still been the only one to go for a true acrylic product, embracing people completely replacing their soft tubing. And that's why I'll be going with them. Plus white fittings with blue tube is ganna look SO SICK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The EK fittings have a locking rig like the Primochill fittings. The EK fittings are branded for copper and acrylic.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

Sorry Jeff,they dont,they are identical to the c47.
Push fit,no lock


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry Jeff,they dont,they are identical to the c47.
> Push fit,no lock


I am disappointed... I wonder why they changed the design....? Well at any rate they are cheaper than Bitspower.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeffinslaw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sorry Jeff,they dont,they are identical to the c47.
> Push fit,no lock
> 
> 
> 
> I am disappointed... I wonder why they changed the design....? Well at any rate they are cheaper than Bitspower.
> 
> Jeffinslaw
Click to expand...

I am dissapoint as well I thought they were going to sell a whole portion of the acrylic tubing like e22 or primochill is doing but this is just a crystal link clone


----------



## HardTarget

Just seen this posted on the EK main page


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> While it is exciting to see some competition, from what I could gather from the article this was basically just another vendor providing what bitspower has been offering for some time now, crystal link. Primochill has (as far as I know) still been the only one to go for a true acrylic product, embracing people completely replacing their soft tubing. And that's why I'll be going with them. Plus white fittings with blue tube is ganna look SO SICK.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I am dissapoint as well I thought they were going to sell a whole portion of the acrylic tubing like e22 or primochill is doing but this is just a crystal link clone












Haha but in all seriousness, it would've been great for them to produce their own fittings. Oh well, I suppose Bitspower now has some decent competition?

@Inglewood, where'd you pick up your silicon tube, and does it matter as long as the OD matches the ID of the tube?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get 3/4" OD push fittings for acrylic tubing?


Still need an answer for this


----------



## Jakusonfire

The EK compression fittings for rigid tube are still to come, in the next few months. These new push fit are a separate design.

Metric size acrylic tube to fit the push fit design should be easy to source from lots of places for quite cheap.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Two questions guys..

Whats the best way to cut the acrylic tubing?

I see Be Neg used a piece of aluminum for the bends.. whats the best way to do even square bends? Thats the style Id like to do but not exactly sure how to go at it. *I know how to bend it I just dont know what to use to actually bend the acrylic to the perfect degree everytime.


----------



## DaaQ

One way is you could make up a wooden jig to get same bend everytime.

To cut you could use a miter box for squareness and a handsaw. like a hacksaw

A framers square , a sharpie, small piece of plywood or the such and small 1x1 or something similar, lay out the different degrees you may want with the sharpie and screw the small 1x1s down and also you want something for the bend radius as well.

someone else may chime in with different ideas.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> One way is you could make up a wooden jig to get same bend everytime.
> 
> To cut you could use a miter box for squareness and a handsaw. like a hacksaw


Hello fellow kentucky member :O

Im not the best with building things honestly and geometry wasnt my best subject.. really need some hang holding over here lol. Is there a tool or anything I can buy?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Is there a tool or anything I can buy?


Like DaaQ says, you need a miter box and a handsaw.

This is cheap and come with a free saw http://www.homedepot.com/p/Buck-Bros-Miter-Box-and-Saw-Set-40328/100004948
This saw might be better for acrylic http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Mini-Hacksaw-T113/100063982?N=12kx

Practice a few cuts first


----------



## fakeblood

Just need a hacksaw and follow this guide

http://www.e22.biz/tubingprepguide.aspx#.UeXJQI1D-J0

Worked a charm for me


----------



## DaaQ

I picked up one like THIS Except mine is a Kobalt from the other place. I like the Milwaukee better, put that's my personal bias. Plus they don't sell Milwaukee at the other place.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Nearing completion









MetallicAcid


----------



## Solonowarion

Looking good acid!


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Looking good acid!


Cheers solo









Have you an acrylic project on the way?

MetallicAcid


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> Cheers solo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you an acrylic project on the way?
> 
> MetallicAcid


Build log below. Been at it for a while now. By the way how do I rename a link for my build log?


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Build log below. Been at it for a while now. By the way how do I rename a link for my build log?


Go to the first post and click "Edit Thread" at the top next to "Subscribe," "Search This Thread," and "Preferences."









Jeffinslaw


----------



## MetallicAcid

Hey guys. I have the most complex bend finished now, and the loop is ready to be filled and leak tested









MetallicAcid


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MetallicAcid*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: AWESOME!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys. I have the most complex bend finished now, and the loop is ready to be filled and leak tested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MetallicAcid


I am in awe of your bending skills.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I am in awe of your bending skills.


Thanks GD!









Here is a pic of the loop in it's beginnings of being filled










MetallicAcid


----------



## Lutfij

BLOOD!


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutfij*
> 
> BLOOD!


Last night's harvest was good!

MUHUHAUAHHAHAHAHAAA

MetallicAcid


----------



## Lutfij

lol, good work there mate!


----------



## tpb211

I am working on a custom build and I am trying to learn / teach myself acrylic skills. Would it be ok to post some pics of what I have done and questions I am running into in this thread?


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> I am working on a custom build and I am trying to learn / teach myself acrylic skills. Would it be ok to post some pics of what I have done and questions I am running into in this thread?


Of course! I for one would welcome it.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> I am working on a custom build and I am trying to learn / teach myself acrylic skills. Would it be ok to post some pics of what I have done and questions I am running into in this thread?


Me too!

MetallicAcid


----------



## Sunreeper

I agree!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> I am working on a custom build and I am trying to learn / teach myself acrylic skills. Would it be ok to post some pics of what I have done and questions I am running into in this thread?


Yes,you can.

Dont spam tho.


----------



## tpb211

Here is what I am working with



I polished out the "stock" EK frosted look to a glass like appearance



Here is the problem I am running into, if you look closely at the upper tube just below the fulcrum a "oil blot" has been baked into the tube.



These are the tools i'm using so far


Questions for you guys,

What is the optimum temperature for bending?

Has anyone tried using a mold and an oven? I tried using a natural gas oven, the finish was superb, but the tube ends melted and flared (telling me my temp is too high, was trying at 400)

Are you noticing discoloration or staining from using olive oil?

Have been playing around with flash polishing the finished tubing, will try and do some comparison pictures.


----------



## Solonowarion

Looks good man, I am not sure about the optimal temperature but for me, when the tube couldnt hold itself up and when limp in my hands ( that sounds so wrong) I knew it was hot enough to be bent. When I kept heating after that point the tube would start bubbling.


----------



## Krusher33

I tried with a hair dryer and couldn't get it hot enough bend well. Had to break down and get a heating gun from Harbor Freight.


----------



## mandrix

I'm late to the party on the acrylic, but I've already done the copper tubing thing and ready to move on.
Today I ordered some E22 tubing and some EK-HD Adapters, as well as some cord for bending the tubing.

Has anyone used the EK-HD fittings? To me they seem pretty much the same as the BP, just cheaper.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm late to the party on the acrylic, but I've already done the copper tubing thing and ready to move on.
> Today I ordered some E22 tubing and some EK-HD Adapters, as well as some cord for bending the tubing.
> 
> Has anyone used the EK-HD fittings? To me they seem pretty much the same as the BP, just cheaper.


I've been thinking about them and they're priced pretty decently ~$4-5 each. The Phobya push fittings are tempting ~$2.60 each but they're only 10mm od.

I'm very fortunate to have e-plastics.com 10 minutes from my home and the 6' piece of 3/8 or 1/2 od tube $2-3 each (







). Might go w/ the Phobya push in fittings if they will fit w/ 3/8" od acrylic tube.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've been thinking about them and they're priced pretty decently ~$4-5 each. The Phobya push fittings are tempting ~$2.60 each but they're only 10mm od.
> 
> I'm very fortunate to have e-plastics.com 10 minutes from my home and the 6' piece of 3/8 or 1/2 od tube $2-3 each (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Might go w/ the Phobya push in fittings if they will fit w/ 3/8" od acrylic tube.


No I don't believe the Phobya will work as they are only for metric sized tubing. For the 3/8" you can get the Mettleair push fits off Ebay pretty cheap. I use a few in my build.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> No I don't believe the Phobya will work as they are only for metric sized tubing. For the 3/8" you can get the Mettleair push fits off Ebay pretty cheap. I use a few in my build.


+1









There's a member selling a few pneumatic 1/2" push fittings and I sent him a pm. Might go with 1/2 od acrylic tube. I'll pick up an e22 silicone tube from ppcs.com since I'll be ordering a few more things from them too. Excited as I may take the plunge







. E-plastics.com has the six foot tube of 3/8x1/2 acrylic tube for $3. A couple of pieces should be enough and its only a 10 minute drive from my home







.


----------



## DarthBeavis

Made a jig for bending the tubing



Primochill Rigid tubes bend well








added some lighting


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Very handy DB,will add it to the first post


----------



## icostin

Very smart the jig. Where can I find the fuel line?


----------



## wermad

Went to eplastics.com and got some numbers with my trusty caliper:

3/8" od tube ~9.8mm
1/2" od ~12.8mm
5/8" od ~15.99-16.00mm
3/4" od ~19.2mm

I'm thinking the 3/8 is probably too small to use with the 10mm fittings and I've yet to find a bspp 1/4 fitting with 16mm od.

Hmmm, gonna have to rethink this as its gonna get expensive with tube and fittings.


----------



## kingchris

ready to go with mine..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> ready to go with mine..


Those primochill fittings?


----------



## MetallicAcid

They look like it









Good luck Chris!!

MetallicAcid


----------



## kingchris

they are. colours are a little off though. these are BLUE!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Went to eplastics.com and got some numbers with my trusty caliper:
> 
> 3/8" od tube ~9.8mm
> 1/2" od ~12.8mm
> 5/8" od ~15.99-16.00mm
> 3/4" od ~19.2mm
> 
> I'm thinking the 3/8 is probably too small to use with the 10mm fittings and I've yet to find a bspp 1/4 fitting with 16mm od.
> 
> Hmmm, gonna have to rethink this as its gonna get expensive with tube and fittings.


werm here's EK fittings for 16mm OD
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_365&products_id=38577

I just bought some of the EK 12mm OD and some E22 tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> werm here's EK fittings for 16mm OD
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_365&products_id=38577
> 
> I just bought some of the EK 12mm OD and some E22 tubing.


Thanks! The 5/8 is right under 16mm and i hear that should be ok. Interesting that they only have a female threaded one. Hopefully we'll see some male threaded fittings soon









edit: could use these but then again the cost would bring you right at the Primochill ones...


----------



## wermad

double post, nm, they do make em!





http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/fittings/ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-nickel.html

Sending ppcs.com an email on availability.

Realized the od is very big ~21mm, which should be around the same as 19mm tube compression fittings.

edit: measured my BP 3/8x5/8 compression fittings and they come in ~22mm so these EK ones should fit the bill







.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icostin*
> 
> Very smart the jig. Where can I find the fuel line?


You can find some at an auto parts store or RC cars parts store too.


----------



## wermad

mcmastercarr has a crush-resistance silicone:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-silicone-rubber-tubing/=nt1sgo

Got a reply from ppcs.com on the EK 16mm od fitting, they didn't order any this time but I suspect they will soon. Probably ~2 weeks


----------



## MetallicAcid

Alrighty everyone! I would like to present to you part 1 of 2, of the final pictures for my build.




http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03074-2_zpsdaaea579.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03072-2_zpsb2e7adac.jpg.html







http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03064_zpscff37a95.jpg.html

http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/DSC03062-2_zpsd375e47d.jpg.html










MetallicAcid


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Tidy work MA,very nice indeed.


----------



## MetallicAcid

Cheers B Neg!

MetallicAcid


----------



## DaaQ

Question, with the E22 tubing and bitspower c47 fittings, how tight is it supposed to be? without sanding the end down by quite a bit i cannot get it past the 2nd o-ring and damn near cannot pull it off.

That sound right?


----------



## wermad

Its recommended to lube the o-rings (either water or something like silicone grease).


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Question, with the E22 tubing and bitspower c47 fittings, how tight is it supposed to be? without sanding the end down by quite a bit i cannot get it past the 2nd o-ring and damn near cannot pull it off.
> 
> That sound right?


Yep. Same way with the EK fittings, nice 'n tight.


----------



## wermad

Input please:

5/8" converted is 15.88mm. I went back to the plastics company to measure twice and I did confirm this. What's the tolerances for seal fittings? I'm eying the EK 16mm fittings.

If no dice, I'm just gonna get some e22 and 12mm push or seal fittings.

Thanks


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Input please:
> 
> 5/8" converted is 15.88mm. I went back to the plastics company to measure twice and I did confirm this. What's the tolerances for seal fittings? I'm eying the EK 16mm fittings.
> 
> If no dice, I'm just gonna get some e22 and 12mm push or seal fittings.
> 
> Thanks


Well I got some c47 fittings and 12mm E22 and I cannot seat one all the way in yet dry, without sanding the end down.

Why not buy 2 fittings and take them in and test fit it. Not to mention you want to have one extra pair to do all your test fitting/measurements with anyway.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Well I got some c47 fittings and 12mm E22 and I cannot seat one all the way in yet dry, without sanding the end down.
> 
> Why not buy 2 fittings and take them in and test fit it. Not to mention you want to have one extra pair to do all your test fitting/measurements with anyway.


I was going to buy a couple to test but ppcs.com only has the female threaded ones.

Btw the description says to chamfer/bevelle it. Could be the same for the C47,?


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I was going to buy a couple to test but ppcs.com only has the female threaded ones.
> 
> Btw the description says to chamfer/bevelle it. Could be the same for the C47,?


I did. BTW I pulled the orings out and its still tighter than anything I can say on here. Almost like the anodized coating it heavy. Any fears of these not holding the tube securely are debunked.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> I did. BTW I pulled the orings out and its still tighter than anything I can say on here. Almost like the anodized coating it heavy. Any fears of these not holding the tube securely are debunked.


Try a little silicone grease. It helps with sli links (avoids tearing the o-ring jacket) and slip tight tube on the compression fittings. so it might help slip the tube in a bit. You can find it in the plumbing section of your local hardware store.

Might just go w/ some 12mm E22 and pick up some push fittings.

edit: placed a small order for two EK 16mm fittings (female, only ones they have at ppcs.com) and some adapters. I'll pick up a piece of 5/8x1/2 tube later to test this or next week. Wish me luck


----------



## wermad

Got my tube for cheap, $3.50 for six feet











So my caliper says 15.9mm, so that leaves 0.1mm, divide that by two, and leaves minor gap of 0.05mm around. Since ppl are saying most applications are supper tight and may required some sanding of the tip, I might be able to squeeze in, literately. Fittings arrive on Saturday and I'll be setting up a small test sample to run for a few days (leak testing the connectors).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Should work well,chamfer the outside leading edge of the tube before fitting and use a smear of silicone grease as already mentioned and you will be set to go.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Should work well,chamfer the outside leading edge of the tube before fitting and use a smear of silicone grease as already mentioned and you will be set to go.


Thanks









Hope you're doing better


----------



## kingchris

all set to start mine this weekend.


----------



## wermad

We have lift off!!!!!!!!!!













Excuse the quality of the pics (







), camera is pretty mediocre at best.

I jiggled the tube on the connecter end and though there's some slight movement, there was no leak! Used a mini hack saw and the edge was pretty acceptable (need to practice more). I chamfered the ends using some 400 grit sand paper and used a cotton swab to dab some silicone grease on the o-rings of the EK fittings. I'm going to leave it over night on a piece of paper towel to see if there are any leaks. If all goes well, the next step is to plumb this test sample with my loop (will sit outside the case) to ensure it holds up under the pump's pressure. Wish me luck fellas!!!1


----------



## Sunreeper

Man that acrylic tubing looks gigantic what size id and od is it?


----------



## briddell

Hmm.... Nickel-plated copper pipe vs clear acrylic tubing... I have a tough decision to make.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Man that acrylic tubing looks gigantic what size id and od is it?


5/8"x1/2" (~15.9mmx12.8mm)


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Man that acrylic tubing looks gigantic what size id and od is it?
> 
> 
> 
> 5/8"x1/2" (~15.9mmx12.8mm)
Click to expand...

Thank you







where did you purchase this tubing?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> where did you purchase this tubing?


http://www.eplastics.com/Extruded-Plexiglass-Acrylic-Tubing

I'm lucky they're about 10 minutes from my house


----------



## wermad

Here's a few more pics:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Good work Werm,you going for bends or the straight look?

Will add this info to first post when you do some pressure tests.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Good work Werm,you going for bends or the straight look?
> 
> Will add this info to first post when you do some pressure tests.


I'm searching for a silicone tube/rod piece to do some bends. Best I could find (cheapest) is mcmastercarr.com. 1/2x1/4 silicone tube w/ Shore rating of A70 (semi soft). I'm not sure if I should get Soft w/ Shore 50 or very soft Shore rating of 35 instead of the A70? I found some UK ebay sellers that have 12mmx6mm silicone tube but its slightly smaller then 1/2" (~12.7mm) and its a bit more expensive. I need to order some new screws for the rads so most likely I'll be ordering the silicone from mcmastercarr.com. Still waiting for ppcs.com to add the male fittings.

So far no leaks, its been a few hours now. I did turn the fittings a few times and there was no leaks. These are pretty much sli fittings (like the C47s) and I know from experience the regular sli links will leak a bit if you move the tube or fitting (probably due to a single o-ring). I'm happy these guys are holding. Finish in nickel is pretty standard. A slight better look then Phobya but not as fancy as the Alphacool or Koolance fittings I have/had.

I'll' have the piece plumbed tomorrow. It looks very secure imho. Its a lot stiffer/stronger then the regular sli link kits so I'm hoping it does hold. I run my pump (35x) 100% all the time but I can drop the voltage to see if there are any differences.


----------



## dropxo

Silicone or Buna-N (Nitrile) cord could be a good option if you can find it. (search o-ring cord)
usually used to make custom o-rings, can get it in various sizes upto an inch in diameter, metric sizes also possible.
the nitrile is rated to around 120 degrees Celsius, but when i did some bending tests it was fine without lube and didn't melt onto the acrylic tube.
The nitrile i have is around 70 durometer (shore) hardness, and i don't think you would want to go much lower as the rod/tube will extrude and compress in the bend, giving that caved in look once removed. it also can form a tight loop around my finger with almost no deformation to the cord.
But if you were to bend acrylic to that tighter radius you would get the acrylic deforming anyway just to make such a tight bend (inside edge).


----------



## wermad

Good news and bad news for 5/8" od acrylic on 16mm EK HD fittings









Good: it does hold under the pumps pressure.

Bad: one slight move and it easily dislodges.

I'm sure this is fine with applications where there's some amount of force holding things together, like sli fittings. Though, for runs it has a lot of inherit danger. One small tug and it comes off easily. I'm going to abandon this idea as I'm not going to risk my rig. Still open to going acrylic. Might just invest in Primochill fittings since I can get cheap 1/2x3/8 clear tube locally.

Thanks for the support chaps


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Bummer... Thanks for all the guinea pigging though!


----------



## DigitalMonkey

Im not sure if this is asked, but is E22 compatible with Bitspower Multi-Link Adapter's? If not, what's the alternative while still using Multi-Link Adapter's?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Its compatible.


----------



## wermad

@ BNegative.

I remember looking in the Copper thead, you linked a push 16mm fitting. But I haven't found anyone who sells it. You know where I can get it? Would like to order one and see if it actually holds 5/8" tube. I found some bspt ones but no bspp.

edit:

http://www.wellfittings.com/brass-push-in-fittings-with-o-ring-bspp-g-bpoc-g-hex-male-stud.html


----------



## wermad

Pulled the trigger on some Pimochill ghost fittings (black) and some Mayhems Sunset Yellow pastel


----------



## mandrix

I used the 10/12mm EK-HD adapters in my build and my experience was different from wermad's. I haven't had a single leak, and the orings seem to grab the tubing pretty tight. I will have to go back and re-bend a piece of tubing since I see now I "wrinkled" one at the bend. At least for myself bending acrylic tubing is harder than copper! I got a pile O' scrap.......







But hey, learn by doing, right?

Just ordered two of the E22 12mm push fittings, though, since I have 2xAquaero's connected via their waterblocks I decided to stick with push fits here since using the EK adapters requires pushing the tubing in pretty hard, more than I want to push against a pcb. According to PPC's the ID is 8mm, probably at the torx fitting at the base of the fitting. I'm hoping I can drill these out larger as I did with the mettleair fittings using my drillpress.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I used the 10/12mm EK-HD adapters in my build and my experience was different from wermad's. I haven't had a single leak, and the orings seem to grab the tubing pretty tight. I will have to go back and re-bend a piece of tubing since I see now I "wrinkled" one at the bend. At least for myself bending acrylic tubing is harder than copper! I got a pile O' scrap.......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But hey, learn by doing, right?
> 
> Just ordered two of the E22 12mm push fittings, though, since I have 2xAquaero's connected via their waterblocks I decided to stick with push fits here since using the EK adapters requires pushing the tubing in pretty hard, more than I want to push against a pcb. According to PPC's the ID is 8mm, probably at the torx fitting at the base of the fitting. I'm hoping I can drill these out larger as I did with the mettleair fittings using my drillpress.


I used 5/8" od tube one 16mm fittings. The tube is slightly smaller and hence why it doesn't hold. I'm sure with 16mm od tube the ek fittings are perfectly fine.

I went with primochill due to the way it secures the tube and I have access to cheap and plentiful 1/2x3/8 tube locally


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Thank you for this tutorial! Seems like a really fun process and it must save quite some money on 90 degree fittings


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kipsofthemud*
> 
> Thank you for this tutorial! Seems like a really fun process and it must save quite some money on 90 degree fittings


Its a lot more expensive to go w/ rotary angled fittings to just run straight tube. Its been done a few times and frankly the results are very awesome but the cost is huge. Buy yourself a silicone tube and a heat gun (both will cost you about the same as a BP rotary m-angle adapter) and bend the tube. If you're careful, you should be able to make some great angles/curves with the acrylic tube.

Went back to local plastics company to return one of the 5/8" tubes and got four six-foot 1/2"x3/8" tubes for a meager $7 usd total









Crossing my fingers UPS delivers the silicone tomorrow so I can practice bending this weekend


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

I haven't even finished my rig and I'm thinking about going acrylic tube...


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I used 5/8" od tube one 16mm fittings. The tube is slightly smaller and hence why it doesn't hold. I'm sure with 16mm od tube the ek fittings are perfectly fine.
> 
> I went with primochill due to the way it secures the tube and I have access to cheap and plentiful 1/2x3/8 tube locally


Ah. Too bad that didn't work out for you. But you don't know until you try.
What is it about the primochill fittings you like better, or is it more about tubing size?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Kipsofthemud*
> 
> Thank you for this tutorial! Seems like a really fun process and it must save quite some money on 90 degree fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a lot more expensive to go w/ rotary angled fittings to just run straight tube. Its been done a few times and frankly the results are very awesome but the cost is huge. Buy yourself a silicone tube and a heat gun (both will cost you about the same as a BP rotary m-angle adapter) and bend the tube. If you're careful, you should be able to make some great angles/curves with the acrylic tube.
> 
> Went back to local plastics company to return one of the 5/8" tubes and got four six-foot 1/2"x3/8" tubes for a meager $7 usd total
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Crossing my fingers UPS delivers the silicone tomorrow so I can practice bending this weekend
Click to expand...

I'm jealous that you got a local place.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Ah. Too bad that didn't work out for you. But you don't know until you try.
> What is it about the primochill fittings you like better, or is it more about tubing size?


I really didn't want them at first but since I can get 1/2 tube cheap locally, it was a pretty easy decisions. If I make a mistake w/ the tube, i have plenty to fiddle around with. Had I gone w/ the 12mm push or friction fittings (ie EK 12mm), i would have needed to buy the expensive E22 12mm tube or order it from overseas. It gets expensive with shipping. I'm glad primochill makes imperial fittings and they do grow on you. Plus, you have a range of colors to choose from.

If you haven't checked out DarthBeavis' build, its pretty intense and wild with primochill fittings/tube.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm jealous that you got a local place.


I didn't know this company was so close by and i was ready to buy their acrylic sheet. What an awesome place. They have a few bins outside with scrap pieces of plexi and acrylic sheets and other items. They sell these by the pound or you can order a full sheet and have them cut it for you (for a fee).

If i have an online site ship six foot tubes, shipping would be wildly expensive. So happy they're close by







.

Tbh, a lot of folks live near by some companies or industries that can make me a little jelli too. I don't live near a Microcenter and so I get upset not having the nice deals they offer in-store only. Some ppl have companies that can paint, pc, or plate for really cheap. Closes company that can plate is about 45 minutes away.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Ah. Too bad that didn't work out for you. But you don't know until you try.
> What is it about the primochill fittings you like better, or is it more about tubing size?
> 
> 
> 
> I really didn't want them at first but since I can get 1/2 tube cheap locally, it was a pretty easy decisions. If I make a mistake w/ the tube, i have plenty to fiddle around with. Had I gone w/ the 12mm push or friction fittings (ie EK 12mm), i would have needed to buy the expensive E22 12mm tube or order it from overseas. It gets expensive with shipping. I'm glad primochill makes imperial fittings and they do grow on you. Plus, you have a range of colors to choose from.
Click to expand...

FYI: Performance PC's have the E22 tubing. Not as good of a deal you got but it's $9 per 100cm.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> FYI: Performance PC's have the E22 tubing. Not as good of a deal you got but it's $9 per 100cm.


Yup, that is one of the reasons I didn't get metric fittings. I really wanted to pick up some of the push 12mm fittings from the member in the market but it was just more practical with Primochill due to easy and cheap access to 1/2 tube. Besides them, ebay or an overseas retailer was the next (and still a bit expensive) option for metric tube..

Edit: ppcs.com also has the 10mm silicone forming tube which makes it convenient to buy metric tube, fittings, and accessories from them.


----------



## tpb211

As anyone found an optimum bending temperature? Looking to try some molds in a lab oven but would like to know if anyone has an optimum temp.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> As anyone found an optimum bending temperature? Looking to try some molds in a lab oven but would like to know if anyone has an optimum temp.


Why not a heat gun? More controllable and precise. Heating the hole tube you have to consider forming of the whole thing.

Anyways, I have a laser thermometer. I can take some readings of temps once the acrylic is malleable enough to start bending/forming.


----------



## tpb211

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Why not a heat gun? More controllable and precise. Heating the hole tube you have to consider forming of the whole thing.
> 
> Anyways, I have a laser thermometer. I can take some readings of temps once the acrylic is malleable enough to start bending/forming.


Heatgun's come in a wide array of temperatures ranging from 250-1500+watt's, a lot of the cheaper heatguns your limited to a few pre-selected temps - Which temp works best ?

With a heat gun I have been running into tube clarity issues resulting from temp being either too low or too high while doing complex bends on clear primochill tubing.

If I make a mold of the bend and let it slowly heat up and take shape in an oven I wind up with perfect bends and a clear glass like finish, I have then been flame polishing with a blow torch after the pieces have oven cooled to give it that high gloss. I do not have a temp probe on the oven I am using and plan on getting a more precision oven hence the reason I was wondering if anyone knew the temp at which optimium bending can be performed

have been doing something like this, only with rigid tubing and molds made out of clay lined with foil.





and then I follow this method for flame polishing the acrylic


----------



## wermad

From the Primochill vid, looks like they're using a regular heat gun in high mode. I'll test this for you. I have some scrap tube from my first experiment.


----------



## tpb211

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From the Primochill vid, looks like they're using a regular heat gun in high mode. I'll test this for you. I have some scrap tube from my first experiment.


Much appreciated, I am running into clarity issues I think you would only notice on clear tubing. Knowing a temp others are having success at would be helpfull


----------



## Kipsofthemud

Could we make our own T-virus-like reservoirs with the acrylic pipebending? Or are they made in another way?


----------



## wermad

Got the silicone in today. 9mm od works very nicely with 3/8" id acrylic (~9.5mm), just gotta make sure you lube it with something like olive oil as its a pita to pull out dry.

First attempt, I bent the tube a few times and it got a little distorted. But I did like the results. It goes by *fast* so you have to be quick on the draw. I'm going to make a large protractor diagram so I can ensure I do the right bends.

Here's what I got so far using my laser thermometer"

-1500w heat gun in max mode
-Took ~30-60 seconds for the acrylic to become malleable
-Tip of the heat gun measure above 100°C
-Acrylic while being heated topped 100°C but was hovering ~70-80°C (as it was being rotated).
-Took a few minutes to cool down (not recommended to splash cool due to shock cracking).

Going to practice all weekend







. Fittings arrive tomorrow but I'm waiting on the pastel to arrive next week.

edit: got some pointers from BNeg. Looks like i applied too much heat quickly at a concentrated spot. Going to practice a bit more.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Much appreciated, I am running into clarity issues I think you would only notice on clear tubing. Knowing a temp others are having success at would be helpfull


I'm using E22 tubing and I'm not having a problem with clarity....is this before or after the tubing has water in it? I notice once the loop is filled the clear acrylic tubing looks better (to me).

Anyway I use a regular heat gun on high. I won't say I have mastered the process, but I've made a few bends and curves.


----------



## wermad

Took BNeg's advise and started heating a larger area. Just rotating it around to ensure the whole circumference gets heat. I did dab a bit of olive oil on the silicone but it got stuck







I was making a spiral using a scrap tube of pvc








. But I get the idea now of how to work it. going to do some more practicing tomorrow.

For reference, I'll be using some nylon tube to get an idea or muck up before i starting shaping the acrylic tube


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Took BNeg's advise and started heating a larger area. Just rotating it around to ensure the whole circumference gets heat. I did dab a bit of olive oil on the silicone but it got stuck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was making a spiral using a scrap tube of pvc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But I get the idea now of how to work it. going to do some more practicing tomorrow.
> 
> For reference, I'll be using some nylon tube to get an idea or muck up before i starting shaping the acrylic tube


What are you using to bend the acrylic around? Or are you free handing it?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> What are you using to bend the acrylic around? Or are you free handing it?


First attempt was free-handed. Second attempt I did a spiral on a 6mm pvc tube I had lying around. Printed out a protractor diagram to help keep things looking nice and tidy rather then all over the place.

edit: I've decided to use a 40mm pvc tube as a form since my case is pretty cramped in some areas. Should keep the radius tight but I can always go back to the 60mm for some more fluid bends in the open.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> First attempt was free-handed. Second attempt I did a spiral on a 6mm pvc tube I had lying around. Printed out a protractor diagram to help keep things looking nice and tidy rather then all over the place.
> 
> edit: I've decided to use a 4mm pvc tube as a form since my case is pretty cramped in some areas. Should keep the radius tight but I can always go back to the 6mm for some more fluid bends in the open.


6 and 4mm??? you mean cm?


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> First attempt was free-handed. Second attempt I did a spiral on a 6mm pvc tube I had lying around. Printed out a protractor diagram to help keep things looking nice and tidy rather then all over the place.
> 
> edit: I've decided to use a 4mm pvc tube as a form since my case is pretty cramped in some areas. Should keep the radius tight but I can always go back to the 6mm for some more fluid bends in the open.


Wow... You just said that previously but I must have missed it. Sorry about that.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> 6 and 4mm??? you mean cm?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> Wow... You just said that previously but I must have missed it. Sorry about that.
Click to expand...









Yes







40mm and 60mm respectively. I'm always in mm mode and forgot to cm instead









I ended up breaking the nice looking simple spiral I made to release the silicone. Not sure if I should slather the olive oil. Will have to rinse in soapy water for the final pieces


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ditch the oil,all it does is replace the air making it stick,bit like picking up beer mats with wet glasses.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ditch the oil,all it does is replace the air making it stick,bit like picking up beer mats with wet glasses.


What do you suggest for a lubricant? I went dry the first time and it got stuck. I dabbed oil and it went fine. Then I did the spiral and I may have not added enough oil or it got cooked under the heat but my silicone got stuck. Ended up cracking the spiral to release it









btw: I'm running 9mm silicone w/ 3/8" id tube (~9.5mm).


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> btw: I'm running 9mm silicone w/ 3/8" id tube (~9.5mm).


If it's getting stuck, then you have to wonder if it's actually proper silicone moulding rubber. Cut a small piece off and try to melt it with your heat gun. Record the temperature where it starts to melt or deform.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If it's getting stuck, then you have to wonder if it's actually proper silicone moulding rubber. Cut a small piece off and try to melt it with your heat gun. Record the temperature where it starts to melt or deform.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-silicone-rubber-tubing/=o015jx
Quote:


> High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Tubing
> Opaque
> Semi-Clear
> 
> Very flexible
> Semisoft: Shore A70
> Soft: Shore A50
> Very Soft: Shore A35
> Temperature Range: -94° to 392° F
> Use with barbed fittings
> 
> Looking for rubber tubing that can take the heat? Silicone is a synthetic rubber that's more resilient than natural rubber, making it a popular choice for peristaltic (squeeze-action) pumps. Tubing won't impart taste or odors and maintains its flexibility over time. Use with water, air, and food and beverage. Tubing is made from FDA-compliant resins. Material meets ASTM D2000. Tubing can be sterilized with steam (autoclaving) and radiation.
> 
> Semisoft and Soft-To Order: Please specify opaque black, opaque red, semi-clear blue, or semi-clear white.
> 
> Very Soft-This is the softest silicone tubing we offer. Tubing is opaque white.
> 
> View information about the chemical compatibility of rubber tubing.
> Metric
> 
> Semisoft
> (Choose a Color)
> 
> Soft (Choose a Color)
> 
> Very Soft (Opaque White)
> 
> ID,
> mm OD,
> mm Wall,
> mm Bend
> Radius, mm Available Lengths, ft. Max. psi
> @ 72° F Per Ft. Max. psi
> @ 72° F Per Ft. Max. psi
> @ 72° F Per Ft.
> 4 9 2.5 27 5, 10, 25, 50, 100 15 5041K68 $1.62 15 5054K71 $1.44 3 5054K811 $2.05


Bought the A70 shore rating (semi-soft). Highest temp I saw on the heat gun ~110°C.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Ditch the oil,all it does is replace the air making it stick,bit like picking up beer mats with wet glasses.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you suggest for a lubricant? I went dry the first time and it got stuck. I dabbed oil and it went fine. Then I did the spiral and I may have not added enough oil or it got cooked under the heat but my silicone got stuck. Ended up cracking the spiral to release it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw: I'm running 9mm silicone w/ 3/8" id tube (~9.5mm).
Click to expand...

Go down another .5 mm on the former rod? I use 9mm rod with 10mm ID tube.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go down another .5 mm on the former rod? I use 9mm rod with 10mm ID tube.


I'll consider that







. Possibly a light sanding (manual)?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Go down another .5 mm on the former rod? I use 9mm rod with 10mm ID tube.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll consider that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Possibly a light sanding (manual)?
Click to expand...

silicone wont sand as far as im aware.


----------



## icostin

This are my test bends, but I don't manage to get the angle as straight as others







. I have the silicon cord but the tubing gets a little bit flat in the bend as you can see in the picture. Am I missing something


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icostin*
> 
> This are my test bends, but I don't manage to get the angle as straight as others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have the silicon cord but the tubing gets a little bit flat in the bend as you can see in the picture. Am I missing something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks fine to me, I can get a little sort of flat spot on the outside of the bend with the E22 tubing and the E22 bending cord (12/10).

I tried a 180 bend freehand yesterday and it worked out pretty good. I have to come off the cpu block and then a short distance down to a flow meter on the light panel, so I thought I'd come out and 180 back and down to a rotary on the meter. Sounds complicated but I tried other multiple bends and it didn't work, just not enough room.

Also hoping my 2xE22 12mm push fits will be here today, I decided to use them where my 2 Aquaero water blocks connect to each other so I won't have to use any force against the pcb's. But since the opening at the bottom of the fittings is supposed to be 8mm, I'm hoping to set them up in a vice at my drill press and bore them out as I did with the mettleair fittings a while back. The mettleair fittings also had a torx fitting made into the bottom and it was a pretty small opening until I bored them out to just under 3/8".


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icostin*
> 
> This are my test bends, but I don't manage to get the angle as straight as others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have the silicon cord but the tubing gets a little bit flat in the bend as you can see in the picture. Am I missing something


You need more radius and you need to heat a larger section of the tube


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> silicone wont sand as far as im aware.


Hmmm... the guy in the primochill vid said to sand it down a bit if the silicone isn't going through or use olive oil. I'll just use a bit more olive oil and then rinse everything out before use.

Fittings came in today so I'll be busy getting started. I hope to get my rig plumbed in a few days.


----------



## mandrix

Bored out my 2xE22 12mm fittings.
Start: around 7-8mm. 8mm Allen wrench was too big and I don't have a 7mm.


Finish: 25/64


Will it make a humongous difference? Meh.

It ain't mine until I change something.


----------



## wermad

slathered a bit of olive oil and we're in business. First run and i goofed up; used a fan to cool and it and it cracked (







). Second attempt and had to use a red sharpie to mark my bends. I'll use acetate to remove it later on. Primochill fittings hold strong







. Wife was skeptical after the failed EK ones but these suckers hold


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Welp... It's all over but the cryin! Ordered 16 Primochill compression fittings, Neon green tube, and the vortex... I guess it's time to get ride of all my bits power fittings, lol!!!


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Welp... It's all over but the cryin! Ordered 16 Primochill compression fittings, Neon green tube, and the vortex... I guess it's time to get ride of all my bits power fittings, lol!!!


Do you by chance have any of these in a black sparkle finish?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20899/ex-tub-1964/Bitspower_G14_Silver_Shining_Rotary_90_Adapter_BP-90R.html


----------



## friskiest

This might be a silly question, so pardon me in advance.

Is there a 'max safe length' of acrylic to be used in a single run?

In my TJ11, I'm planning to come from my 480 in the bottom compartment, up through the second cable management hole and up to the cpu. This is perhaps a 50-60cm run in one go.

Would this be okay or not recommended? The run would have perhaps four 90deg bends from rad outlet to cpu inlet.

Anyone have an idea?


----------



## CarbonDrift

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> This might be a silly question, so pardon me in advance.
> 
> Is there a 'max safe length' of acrylic to be used in a single run?
> 
> In my TJ11, I'm planning to come from my 480 in the bottom compartment, up through the second cable management hole and up to the cpu. This is perhaps a 50-60cm run in one go.
> 
> Would this be okay or not recommended? The run would have perhaps four 90deg bends from rad outlet to cpu inlet.
> 
> Anyone have an idea?


As long as it fixed at both ends, acrylic is rigid enough that you wont have any problems running whatever length you want.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Alright, to start off.. @ B NEGATIVE +rep for this awesome guide.

I'm doing a rebuild on my main rig (Corsair 650D) & was planning on doing nickel plated cooper piping, but after reading through this thread.. you guys changed my mind. This is going to be somewhat of a long post (sorry). I have a few questions,

My intention is to use some BitsPower angle adapters & attach the BitsPower C47's to the adapters & try to avoid as many bends as possible, is there any negative effect to doing this?

Here is a picture of my rig as it sits,






The longest (& the hardest tube to make) is the one that is going to be coming up from the 180mm rad & to the 5.25'' Bay Reservoir. Everything else should be straight forward. Lastly, How do these push fittings actually work? Can I remove them once they're installed?

Thanks guys!

EDIT: Pic added of my tubing intentions, what do you guys think?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Flip the front rad the other way up,ports at the top make it easier to bleed...plus it will tidy the tube runs up.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Flip the front rad the other way up,ports at the top make it easier to bleed...plus it will tidy the tube runs up.


I'm not 100% on this (Would have to measure), but if I turn it around.. It'll hit on the metal right below the 5.25'' bays. I'd probably have to dremel the chassis. I'm trying to avoid modding the case.


----------



## icostin

B Negative is right you have to thing about the bleeding...


----------



## icostin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Looks fine to me, I can get a little sort of flat spot on the outside of the bend with the E22 tubing and the E22 bending cord (12/10).
> 
> I tried a 180 bend freehand yesterday and it worked out pretty good. I have to come off the cpu block and then a short distance down to a flow meter on the light panel, so I thought I'd come out and 180 back and down to a rotary on the meter. Sounds complicated but I tried other multiple bends and it didn't work, just not enough room.
> 
> Also hoping my 2xE22 12mm push fits will be here today, I decided to use them where my 2 Aquaero water blocks connect to each other so I won't have to use any force against the pcb's. But since the opening at the bottom of the fittings is supposed to be 8mm, I'm hoping to set them up in a vice at my drill press and bore them out as I did with the mettleair fittings a while back. The mettleair fittings also had a torx fitting made into the bottom and it was a pretty small opening until I bored them out to just under 3/8".


Yes the flat spot is exactly the part of the bend that I don't like.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You need more radius and you need to heat a larger section of the tube


I'll give it a try and heat a much larger section of the tubing when bending it. Thanks a lot for the advice.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icostin*
> 
> Yes the flat spot is exactly the part of the bend that I don't like.
> I'll give it a try and heat a much larger section of the tubing when bending it. Thanks a lot for the advice.


I would also try using a square so right after you shaped you can cool it off and get a perfect 90. Or even the corner of your desk. When I did it I always tried to heat up the same length of tubing using my fingers as a guide. I tried to use jigs but they just weren't working for me. I feel like I had more control freehand. Then when you have one bend that you like you can use that one as a guide and hold the heated tube on top of the other to cool.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icostin*
> 
> B Negative is right you have to thing about the bleeding...


Won't that normally happen by itself after a few hours/days? I can tilt my case around, but I don't know how sturdy the acrylic would be. I'm planning on taking it with me to a LAN & then after that it'll probably just be sitting under my desk till I decide to clean it.


----------



## wermad

Yup, one thing that happened frequently was the flattened areas. Those short runs are the worse. I went through all my tubing since i had a few mistakes. There was a lot of improvising to make some connections but I got them all done. I need to wash off all the debris that got stuck inside with the olive oil. A little high pressure water and some warm soapy water to wash away the oil and debris.


----------



## wermad

I can't get this small run going and I'm just going to throw in the towel. Going back to my nylon tube and compression fttings. Also, wife doesn't seem convinced it will hold and she won't allow me to upgrade anymore if I kill something. better safe, then sorry, especially with the missus







.

Well, at least I learned something new


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can't get this small run going and I'm just going to throw in the towel. Going back to my nylon tube and compression fttings. Also, wife doesn't seem convinced it will hold and she won't allow me to upgrade anymore if I kill something. better safe, then sorry, especially with the missus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Well, at least I learned something new


Wait your ditching acrylic tubing!? It was looking good though..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> Wait your ditching acrylic tubing!? It was looking good though..


These small runs have me beat. I have no more acrylic left (I can get some more tomorrow) but its just not working out. My loop is a bit complex and the case is a bit cramped. Having a larger case it would made things easier but as large as the 900d is its already stuffed with gear its not what i wanted. I do love the long runs at the bottom. Those where fun. Any one wants some Primochill Ghost fittings, hit me, I'll be listing them soon.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

You're killing me Wermad! It was looking so good!


----------



## kingchris

wermad, go for a bigger loop. use that acrylic up..


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> You're killing me Wermad! It was looking so good!


Thanks, it just felt it needed more polish. Just didn't want my rig down for a longer period.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> wermad, go for a bigger loop. use that acrylic up..


Lol, bigger?!?!?!?! I'm good. The fittings sold like hot pancakes. Just placed an order for clear Advance LRT and a new cpu block. I'll take the small monetary loss as a rewarding learning experience







.


----------



## cyphon

Considering Acrylic now...curious about a couple things:

1) How easily does it crack/break? I know this is pretty dependent on length, but just trying to ball park it. Do I need to worry if tilting the case back and forth when bleeding, turning upside down to drain, or moving it from room to room in the house?

2) What is the best way to install the tube after getting it bent correctly? Attach fitting to block, then push in the tube? Or attach the fitting to the tube and then screw it into the block?

3) Has anyone had any trouble with the Bitspower c47 fittings using it for an entire build?

4) How difficult are tight bends to make?


----------



## icostin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> Won't that normally happen by itself after a few hours/days? I can tilt my case around, but I don't know how sturdy the acrylic would be. I'm planning on taking it with me to a LAN & then after that it'll probably just be sitting under my desk till I decide to clean it.


Yes after some time the air gets out but the way the front rad is the air will go up not down where your g1/4 holes are. So it will get stuck in the top of the rad till you'll tilt the case upside down









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I can't get this small run going and I'm just going to throw in the towel. Going back to my nylon tube and compression fttings. Also, wife doesn't seem convinced it will hold and she won't allow me to upgrade anymore if I kill something. better safe, then sorry, especially with the missus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Well, at least I learned something new


I killed 1m of tubing trying to have the small runs as it should and then I found another solution. I've done it with fittings, to straight the run and then went with the acrylic. Don't give up like that it's looking very good.


----------



## icostin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Considering Acrylic now...curious about a couple things:
> 
> 1) How easily does it crack/break? I know this is pretty dependent on length, but just trying to ball park it. Do I need to worry if tilting the case back and forth when bleeding, turning upside down to drain, or moving it from room to room in the house?
> 
> 2) What is the best way to install the tube after getting it bent correctly? Attach fitting to block, then push in the tube? Or attach the fitting to the tube and then screw it into the block?
> 
> 3) Has anyone had any trouble with the Bitspower c47 fittings using it for an entire build?
> 
> 4) How difficult are tight bends to make?


1. Not that easy but it does. I don't advise you to tilt the case too much. Moving it should not be a problem if you have casters.

2. I'll say it depends... If you have enough space between the parts you have to connect or not, you can do it in many ways.

3. No, but if you have long runs try to reinforce the run at some point so it doesn't move away from the fitting.

4. Practice is the mother of all bends. If you're planning on doing it buy 1 m or so of spare tubing so that you practice a little before the actual build.


----------



## szeged

hey guys, about to switch to acrylic tubing, was just wondering if someone could look over this PPC inventory and tell me if everything looks good/will work together.



have to cool 1 cpu block, 1 gpu block, 2 radiators, d5 pump, tube res. Got enough of the bitspower c47 fittings? enough angles for anything i might not be able to bend to? enough tubing?

and most importantly imo, will that primochill silicon insert fit inside the e22 tubing? if not i can switch the tubing to primochill and the fittings aswell.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey guys, about to switch to acrylic tubing, was just wondering if someone could look over this PPC inventory and tell me if everything looks good/will work together.
> 
> 
> 
> have to cool 1 cpu block, 1 gpu block, 2 radiators, d5 pump, tube res. Got enough of the bitspower c47 fittings? enough angles for anything i might not be able to bend to? enough tubing?
> 
> and most importantly imo, will that primochill silicon insert fit inside the e22 tubing? if not i can switch the tubing to primochill and the fittings aswell.


If you are going to use the E22 tubing why not get the E22 bending insert? I mean, the primochill may work, I don't know, but the E22 one does for sure, that's what I use with the 12mm E22 tubing.
PPC's has both the E22 tubing and bending insert.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> If you are going to use the E22 tubing why not get the E22 bending insert? I mean, the primochill may work, I don't know, but the E22 one does for sure, that's what I use with the 12mm E22 tubing.
> PPC's has both the E22 tubing and bending insert.


its out of stock, or i would just get that


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icostin*
> 
> 1. Not that easy but it does. I don't advise you to tilt the case too much. Moving it should not be a problem if you have casters.
> 
> 2. I'll say it depends... If you have enough space between the parts you have to connect or not, you can do it in many ways.
> 
> 3. No, but if you have long runs try to reinforce the run at some point so it doesn't move away from the fitting.
> 
> 4. Practice is the mother of all bends. If you're planning on doing it buy 1 m or so of spare tubing so that you practice a little before the actual build.


Thanks for the info. Still a bit worried about the fragility of the tube.

With what I am planning, most of the routes would end up being relatively short, say 6 inch or less, with a couple longer routes.

My next performance-pc order I may purchase a length of Acrylic and cut it to some of the different lengths and see how stable it seems.


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey guys, about to switch to acrylic tubing, was just wondering if someone could look over this PPC inventory and tell me if everything looks good/will work together.
> 
> 
> 
> have to cool 1 cpu block, 1 gpu block, 2 radiators, d5 pump, tube res. Got enough of the bitspower c47 fittings? enough angles for anything i might not be able to bend to? enough tubing?
> 
> and most importantly imo, will that primochill silicon insert fit inside the e22 tubing? if not i can switch the tubing to primochill and the fittings aswell.


Think the primochill insert will be too big, better getting the e22 fitting


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Think the primochill insert will be too big, better getting the e22 fitting


i figured as much lol, well that sucks, i was looking yesterday and they werent out of stock







hope they get some more soon. i might just go all primochill if itll save me some time lol.


----------



## wermad

Primochill: 1/2"od x 3/8"id. 3/8" is ~9.5mm so it should work with the E22 10m id tube.

I actually used a 9mm silicone tube on the 1/2"x3/8" acrylic tube (9.5mm id).


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Primochill: 1/2"od x 3/8"id. 3/8" is ~9.5mm so it should work with the E22 10m id tube.
> 
> I actually used a 9mm silicone tube on the 1/2"x3/8" acrylic tube (9.5mm id).


great to know, ill try it and find out, if it doesnt fit, oh well its only 3 bucks lol. i can probably find a 9 or 9.5mm one from a store in town if it doesnt work, or just shave it down.


----------



## wermad

I had to order 5 feet from mcmastercarr.com but it was help having that extra bit. I would say 3 feet is ideal if you have a large case or 2 feet if you have a small setup.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i figured as much lol, well that sucks, i was looking yesterday and they werent out of stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope they get some more soon. i might just go all primochill if itll save me some time lol.


haha I think I ordered the last foot. I refunded my order with them though.. turns out they thought they had more C47 BP fittings than they actually had. They only had 2 & I wanted 14








I also purchased the last foot of insert, but like I mentioned I had my order refunded, so it should be available.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Primochill: 1/2"od x 3/8"id. 3/8" is ~9.5mm so it should work with the E22 10m id tube.
> 
> I actually used a 9mm silicone tube on the 1/2"x3/8" acrylic tube (9.5mm id).


They don't,primo chill is imperial,e22 is metric,the 2 are not interchangable.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They don't,primo chill is imperial,e22 is metric,the 2 are not interchangable.


We're talking about the od of the silicone rod/tube, right? Not the acrylic hard tube.

edit: should have worded it a bit better









so the silicone tube made for Primochill 3/8" id (9.5mm) can work with the E22 12mmx10mm acrylic tube. I had no issues running 9mm od silicone tube with the 3/8" id acrylic tube.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ah,the bending rod will work just fine..a little large but it should be fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ah,the bending rod will work just fine..a little large but it should be fine.


----------



## cyphon

I ordered some E22 tubing and the E22 bending cord [just now] from performance-pcs, so I guess it is back in stock.

I will be experimenting with the small amount of acrylic I ordered to practice bending and fitting...we'll see how I like it. If not, I am not too invested in it and will write it off as a learning experience. If I like it, then I will just buy more









Thanks again B-Neg for posting the guide. It will be quite useful in approx. 3 days when the tube is delivered







.


----------



## snef

again out of stock on ppcs


----------



## cyphon

How many feet did you put in? I only am getting 1ft for now since I am just experimenting with Acrylic.

Perhaps they only have a couple feet left and you have put in more than they have??


----------



## snef

i cant add to cart because already red rectangle sold out sign

i will wait for next batch


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> i cant add to cart because already red rectangle sold out sign
> 
> i will wait for next batch


Ah...I must have grabbed the last foot of it then, lol


----------



## IT Diva

I use part number 9808K23 silicon cord from McMaster.

Comes in 3 foot lengths and you specify which of the 4 durometers you want when you order.

I got the medium and medium hard, but I'd suggest the medium soft for tighter radius bends.

It works with both the metric E22 and with 1/2" by 3/8" imperial so far.

Darlene


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I use part number 9808K23 silicon cord from McMaster.
> 
> Comes in 3 foot lengths and you specify which of the 4 durometers you want when you order.
> 
> I got the medium and medium hard, but I'd suggest the medium soft for tighter radius bends.
> 
> It works with both the metric E22 and with 1/2" by 3/8" imperial so far.
> 
> Darlene


Good info! Thanks


----------



## wermad

I used ~4' to practice before I started the real work.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I used ~4' to practice before I started the real work.


Yeah I just ordered one of the 40" E2 tubes off of performance-pcs, so yeah, between 3' and 4'. I figured that should give me enough to work with and see how it works and how I like it


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Considering Acrylic now...curious about a couple things:
> 
> 1) How easily does it crack/break? I know this is pretty dependent on length, but just trying to ball park it. Do I need to worry if tilting the case back and forth when bleeding, turning upside down to drain, or moving it from room to room in the house?
> 
> 2) What is the best way to install the tube after getting it bent correctly? Attach fitting to block, then push in the tube? Or attach the fitting to the tube and then screw it into the block?
> 
> 3) Has anyone had any trouble with the Bitspower c47 fittings using it for an entire build?
> 
> 4) How difficult are tight bends to make?


I have the same questions as this guy ^ I placed an order & had it refunded by PPC (They didn't have enough C47 fittings) hence why he was able to purchase the foot of e22 bending cord that I returned. I'm going to place another one, but first I want to figure a few things out.

The main question is, How do I attach the acrylic to the fittings? I'm planning on having a long tube with some 90 degree angles & I don't think I can screw it in. Do I have to push it in once the fittings are installed? Also, how durable is the acrylic? Do I have to worry when moving my case around?

Also once the acrylic is inserted to the C47 fitting, can it be removed & reused?


----------



## fakeblood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> I have the same questions as this guy ^ I placed an order & had it refunded by PPC (They didn't have enough C47 fittings) hence why he was able to purchase the foot of e22 bending cord that I returned. I'm going to place another one, but first I want to figure a few things out.
> 
> The main question is, How do I attach the acrylic to the fittings? I'm planning on having a long tube with some 90 degree angles & I don't think I can screw it in. Do I have to push it in once the fittings are installed? Also, how durable is the acrylic? Do I have to worry when moving my case around?
> 
> Also once the acrylic is inserted to the C47 fitting, can it be removed & reused?


1 - You push the acrylic into the fitting
2 - depends on the setup/run but if its a long run same answer as 1
3 - The tubing is fairly durable, as long as your not throwing your PC around you wont have any dramas


----------



## wermad

There's generally three types of connectors for hard acrylic tube:

-Friction: C47, EK HD

-Push: Phobya, E22, MettleAir,

-Compression: Primochill Ghost Hard


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Looking forward to trying this and get rid of the danger den tubing that seemingly clouds even more as the days pass - but first I need to really plan out my build.


----------



## cyphon

Woo! Sample acrylic tube is in









Time to break out the heat gun and practice bending it


----------



## cyphon

First bend! I think it turned out pretty good


----------



## Sunreeper




----------



## soul801

Just ordered 1/2" 0.500" 3, 10, 20, 50, 100 96505K28 $2.72 from McMaster. Did I order the wrong Silicone tube, or will this work?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> Just ordered 1/2" 0.500" 3, 10, 20, 50, 100 96505K28 $2.72 from McMaster. Did I order the wrong Silicone tube, or will this work?


Which acrylic tube did you get?

You need the same or almost the same size of the id of the acrylic tube. Ie:

Primochill 1/2x3/8", you need a 3/8" od silicone tube (i used 9mm, which is close to 3/8 or 9.5mm).


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Which acrylic tube did you get?
> 
> You need the same or almost the same size of the id of the acrylic tube. Ie:
> 
> Primochill 1/2x3/8", you need a 3/8" od silicone tube (i used 9mm, which is close to 3/8 or 9.5mm).


I got the 1/2" ID. I to reorder 3/8". Any 1 want 1/2" cord?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> I got the 1/2" ID. I to reorder 3/8". Any 1 want 1/2" cord?


Keep it, something will come up later on









I had to order a minimum of 5' from mcmastercarr.com but I think it was worth it


----------



## soul801

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Keep it, something will come up later on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to order a minimum of 5' from mcmastercarr.com but I think it was worth it


I ordered 10' of the 3/8" this time. Lol thanks for the quick reply.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Man, we get rinsed here in Australia


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Man, we get rinsed here in Australia
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


It's actually not that much different. I believe it's $16.95 for us in the US. $5 more for this is not that bad considering how much computer stuff is normally marked up in Australia.


----------



## WizrdSleevz

Alright, I'm doing it! My original intention was to use BP C47 Matte Black Fittings.., but those seem to be sold out everywhere. My theme is Black, White, & Chrome. I might just go with White C47's & Black Angle adapters or All Shinning Silver C47's. What do you guys think?

Here is my cart, I'll probably need more angle adapters, but i'll cross that bridge once I get to it.



Kind of expensive for just fittings & adapters.. meh.

I'm trying to go with the least amount of bends as possible. My intention is to only have 1 long run with 3 90 degree bends.

I ordered some of this cord http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-silicone-rubber-cords/=o3maeh

Will this fit perfectly inside of my 12OD 10ID E22 Tubing? The size is 3/8'' which is around 9.5mm. Thanks guys! Let me know what you think about the color scheme & if I should just go all shinning silver or matte black & white fittings.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soul801*
> 
> I ordered 10' of the 3/8" this time. Lol thanks for the quick reply.


Np









Post a link to your build if you gots one (you should







).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> Alright, I'm doing it! My original intention was to use BP C47 Matte Black Fittings.., but those seem to be sold out everywhere. My theme is Black, White, & Chrome. I might just go with White C47's & Black Angle adapters or All Shinning Silver C47's. What do you guys think?
> 
> Here is my cart, I'll probably need more angle adapters, but i'll cross that bridge once I get to it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of expensive for just fittings & adapters.. meh.
> 
> I'm trying to go with the least amount of bends as possible. My intention is to only have 1 long run with 3 90 degree bends.
> 
> I ordered some of this cord http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-silicone-rubber-cords/=o3maeh
> 
> Will this fit perfectly inside of my 12OD 10ID E22 Tubing? The size is 3/8'' which is around 9.5mm. Thanks guys! Let me know what you think about the color scheme & if I should just go all shinning silver or matte black & white fittings.


Yuppers, E22 12mm tube will work the the C47s








. Pics of stuff when it arrives! You can also use standard silicone tube just look for one w/ a small id. 3/8" od should be fine as its ~9.5mm, but I would just get 10mm od silicone tube:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-silicone-rubber-tubing/=o3y41k


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WizrdSleevz*
> 
> Alright, I'm doing it! My original intention was to use BP C47 Matte Black Fittings.., but those seem to be sold out everywhere. My theme is Black, White, & Chrome. I might just go with White C47's & Black Angle adapters or All Shinning Silver C47's. What do you guys think?
> 
> Here is my cart, I'll probably need more angle adapters, but i'll cross that bridge once I get to it.
> 
> 
> 
> Kind of expensive for just fittings & adapters.. meh.
> 
> I'm trying to go with the least amount of bends as possible. My intention is to only have 1 long run with 3 90 degree bends.
> 
> *I ordered some of this cord http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-silicone-rubber-cords/=o3maeh*
> 
> Will this fit perfectly inside of my 12OD 10ID E22 Tubing? The size is 3/8'' which is around 9.5mm. Thanks guys! Let me know what you think about the color scheme & if I should just go all shinning silver or matte black & white fittings.


That's great stuff, I got the medium and medium hard, I think the medium soft . . 40 durometer would be best for tighter bends.

I'll get some on my next McMaster order.

The 3/8" works fine with E22, but does not fit into 1/2" X 3/8" imperial sized acrylic tube, at least not mine that came from McMaster.

Darlene


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> It's actually not that much different. I believe it's $16.95 for us in the US. $5 more for this is not that bad considering how much computer stuff is normally marked up in Australia.


Ahh, my bad I just thought it was horribly expensive when people were mentioning they were getting two metres for 10 bucks


----------



## dropxo

yea goto a local acrylic or perspex supplier in aus. and ask them about 1/2 inch tube. you can get about 6 foot lengths for like $3 each.
this is the stuff i got, came to around $8.50 for 18ft (was all less than $10 for sure) all good clarity, and uniformity.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






i wouldn't pay for that primochill stuff, when this is available.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dropxo*
> 
> yea goto a local acrylic or perspex supplier in aus. and ask them about 1/2 inch tube. you can get about 6 foot lengths for like $3 each.
> this is the stuff i got, came to around $8.50 for 18ft (was all less than $10 for sure) all good clarity, and uniformity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wouldn't pay for that primochill stuff, when this is available.


I was lucky too. I have a plastics company about 10 minutes away. I paid ~$13USD for 24' (~8m). I used it all up







. Good learning experience


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dropxo*
> 
> yea goto a local acrylic or perspex supplier in aus. and ask them about 1/2 inch tube. you can get about 6 foot lengths for like $3 each.
> this is the stuff i got, came to around $8.50 for 18ft (was all less than $10 for sure) all good clarity, and uniformity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wouldn't pay for that primochill stuff, when this is available.


It's not the tubing cost but the fitting cost that gets you D:


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> It's not the tubing cost but the fitting cost that gets you D:


Depends on how many angled fittings you need. The c47s for example are less than compression fittings


----------



## dropxo

yea its not too bad compared to compressions, i'm using c47's with sanded down 1/2' tube. so it was like $6 a fitting or close enough. plus a couple of 90's and the rest will just be bent to minimise angled adapters. But could easily be over $15 per fitting if you used all the extenders and adapters available, at least there is a choice with how much you spend on it.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dropxo*
> 
> yea goto a local acrylic or perspex supplier in aus. and ask them about 1/2 inch tube. you can get about 6 foot lengths for like $3 each.
> this is the stuff i got, came to around $8.50 for 18ft (was all less than $10 for sure) all good clarity, and uniformity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wouldn't pay for that primochill stuff, when this is available.


Sweet, that was my next question whether you could use stock acrylic tubing











Would this be a suitable type?


----------



## mandrix

I'm through with my tubing (again!)








More pics in build log if interested, link in sig.....

So I've done 3/8" copper, 1/2" copper, now 12mm acrylic.......I hope B NEGATIVE doesn't write any more tubing tutorials soon....









Just kidding!.... thanks again to B NEG for his tuts.


----------



## dropxo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Sweet, that was my next...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> question whether you could use stock acrylic tubing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would this be a suitable type?


would be fine. just know that when you talk to any shop (and i would encourage you to call some other acrylic suppliers near your area to find a better price than that site.)
and they mention 12mm OD tube, its probably going to be 1/2 inch (12.5mm) and come 6ft lengths. i think that RS online might sell actual 12mm OD but its like $25 a metre. and has much smaller ID.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dropxo*
> 
> would be fine. just know that when you talk to any shop (and i would encourage you to call some other acrylic suppliers near your area to find a better price than that site.)
> and they mention 12mm OD tube, its probably going to be 1/2 inch (12.5mm) and come 6ft lengths. i think that RS online might sell actual 12mm OD but its like $25 a metre. and has much smaller ID.


Awesome, off to buy some cheap acrylic to practice bending without going broke









And massive props to B-Neg for the tutorial, it's convinced me to jump on the acrylic ship


----------



## Nydrix

Like the explanation how to bend the pipes.

I'm going to do this the same way.

Only, a little adition : i would also use a spring to prevent the pipe from collapsing.

http://www.transtools.co.uk/hand-tools/plumbing-tools/pipe-bending-springs/monument-internal-copper-pipe-bending-spring-10mm

I saw this during the construction of my house









Hope this helps anyone having issues to make a nice clean bend









cheers


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nydrix*
> 
> Like the explanation how to bend the pipes.
> 
> I'm going to do this the same way.
> 
> Only, a little adition : i would also use a spring to prevent the pipe from collapsing.
> 
> http://www.transtools.co.uk/hand-tools/plumbing-tools/pipe-bending-springs/monument-internal-copper-pipe-bending-spring-10mm
> 
> I saw this during the construction of my house
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps anyone having issues to make a nice clean bend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cheers


You cant get the same bend radius with a spring,it will scratch the inner wall of the pipe and you wont get the spring out once you make the bend if you did actually get it in.
Its the silicone or bust.


----------



## Nydrix

you're right, i looked it up and found a guy doing it with a spring for his fishtanks, you could see the rings of the spring in there.

Thanks for the heads up


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quick question, does anyone have any advice on how to tap the stock pumptop to take G1/4 inch fittings (D5) or is it better to purchase a new pumptop like this?


----------



## wermad

Just get a new top


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Just get a new top


Yeah sounds the better idea when I factor in tools that I need to tap a new thread and labour







when for roughly the same cost I can get a top with more inlet/outlet options.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Yeah sounds the better idea when I factor in tools that I need to tap a new thread and labour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when for roughly the same cost I can get a top with more inlet/outlet options.


And if you mess up you gonna buy one anyway


----------



## lowfat

Received my Primochill fittings + tube today from FCPU. I was hoping I'd be able to fit some sleeving between the tubing and the compression ring but that definitely isn't going to happen w/o modification. Also rather surprised at the paint quality on the compression ring, they look very good.


----------



## lowfat

EDIT: DOUBLE POST


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Received my Primochill fittings + tube today from FCPU. I was hoping I'd be able to fit some sleeving between the tubing and the compression ring but that definitely isn't going to happen w/o modification. *Also rather surprised at the paint quality on the compression ring, they look very good*.


I was very surprised on the quality too


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> And if you mess up you gonna buy one anyway


Too true, more likely than not


----------



## RnRollie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Yeah sounds the better idea when I factor in tools that I need to tap a new thread and labour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> when for roughly the same cost I can get a top with more inlet/outlet options.


Please note that not all tops are created equal









The Aquacomputer D5 top with an Aqualis res would be very nice


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Received my Primochill fittings + tube today from FCPU. I was hoping I'd be able to fit some sleeving between the tubing and the compression ring but that definitely isn't going to happen w/o modification. Also rather surprised at the paint quality on the compression ring, they look very good.


Im more concerned by the bulky look to them,what are they like in the flesh?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> Please note that not all tops are created equal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Aquacomputer D5 top with an Aqualis res would be very nice


Lord almighty you're dead right, it looks the tits


----------



## Dragoon

Seriously considering using 3/8ID - 1/2OD (or 10/13mm will do too, right?) clear acrylic for my future watercooling setup.

I might get some good prices on a local store that sells hundreds of acrylic stuff. Any decent acrylic tubing will do, no need for the specific stuffs from E22 or Primochill, right?

I've been looking into the BP C47's and lol... They seem quite... "unsafe" compared to compression fittings or barbs since they have no locking mechanism. Are they safe to be the only fittings used in a whole watercooling setup if I bend the acrylic? Sorry if I seem paranoid but.. I think you know what I mean









Thanks for the awesome tut B NEGATIVE









+


----------



## wermad

Stick to either imperial or metric. They're not interchangeable.
1/2 = ~ 12.7mm
3/8 = ~ 9.5mm


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im more concerned by the bulky look to them,what are they like in the flesh?


They are about the same width as a 3/8" ID 5/8" OD fitting. I do not find them overly bulky in person.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They are about the same width as a 3/8" ID 5/8" OD fitting. I do not find them overly bulky in person.


Slight smaller then the BP 3/8x5/8. 5/8 od fittings clear a lot of things that's why I love em


----------



## mandrix

I've not seen the Primochill fittings in person. But, I'm very happy with the EK HD fittings, they hold the E22 tubing quite well. I have bumped one piece pretty hard a few times while the system was running, and no leaks.
I use a large lathe file to dress the edge of the tubing on an angle and finish it off with 400-600 wet/dry sandpaper. This lets the tubing pop past the edge of the inner, or second, oring easily enough yet still grips the tubing tightly.


----------



## cyphon

With my experiments I used the bitspower c47. So far they seem to hold well.

Anyone have a bad experience with em? I don't really mind their price all that much


----------



## kingchris

bought my clear tube, 12ft $10 not bad and fit the primochill fittings, going to have a fun time making some fun curves,,,,,,


----------



## MetallicAcid

Nothing but good to report with my C47 fittings!

MetallicAcid


----------



## Kenjiwing

as long as you sand down the edges and make sure the tube goes all the way into the c47s i dont think there will ever be leaking issues with them


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> as long as you sand down the edges and make sure the tube goes all the way into the c47s i dont think there will ever be leaking issues with them


Yeah I learned that quickly with my test run lol

After sanding down it seemed pretty solid


----------



## lowfat

This whole bending thing seems kind of easy so far.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4037-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4033-1.jpg.html


----------



## ubernub

My 1st attempt


----------



## ledzepp3

What. Is. That. Case.


----------



## cyphon

Both of your setups are looking awesome!


----------



## shiney2512

nice work guy's

here's a few pic's of my current build -


----------



## ubernub

OMG!









That's so sleek!


----------



## cyphon

Lookin good

Which fittings are those?


----------



## Sunreeper

They look like primochill ghost fittings


----------



## shiney2512

PrimoChill rigid fittings - they're a lot larger fitting than most, I had to used extender's on some the connections because they kept hitting the side of the water blocks (mainly on the crosschill and pump adaptor).

good so far - no leaks


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiney2512*
> 
> PrimoChill rigid fittings - they're a lot larger fitting than most, I had to used extender's on some the connections because they kept hitting the side of the water blocks (mainly on the crosschill and pump adaptor).
> 
> good so far - no leaks


They're slightly smaller then my Enzotech and BP 3/8x5/8 and I've always cleared things (most importantly, blocks) with them. Some applications, they are a bit tight but I wouldn't call them so big that they don't clear like 1/2x3/4. They were spot on for the Alphacool rads. The Pimochill ghost are about 2-3mm smaller so you should clear pretty much anything.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubernub*
> 
> My 1st attempt



That is awesome dude


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ubernub*
> 
> My 1st attempt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is awesome dude
Click to expand...

What reservoir and CPU water block is that?


----------



## Kenjiwing

lowfat I hate that you make everything look so easy


----------



## radicalrev

Sorry if this is a noob question, but how do you guys install the Acrylic tubing + c47 fittings to the blocks? Do you install the fitting first then tube or tube to fitting then screw onto block?

I ask because since if you use a regular Tygon tubing, you can just install the compression/barb fitting to the block then bend the tube to fit into the fitting. Since Acrylic tubing are hard and not easily bendable, I wonder how.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *radicalrev*
> 
> Sorry if this is a noob question, but how do you guys install the Acrylic tubing + c47 fittings to the blocks? Do you install the fitting first then tube or tube to fitting then screw onto block?
> 
> I ask because since if you use a regular Tygon tubing, you can just install the compression/barb fitting to the block then bend the tube to fit into the fitting. Since Acrylic tubing are hard and not easily bendable, I wonder how.


Both methods can be done. For the later, make sure you have some lubricant like silicone grease to avoid tearing the o-rings.


----------



## Killa Cam

has anyone tried acrylic tubing from us plastics? im wondering if there 1/2x5/8 acrylic will be compatible with the 12/16 ek hd fittings


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> has anyone tried acrylic tubing from us plastics? im wondering if there 1/2x5/8 acrylic will be compatible with the 12/16 ek hd fittings


Don't mix imperial with metric. You can't cross use like nylon tube.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Don't mix imperial with metric. You can't cross use like nylon tube.


i just read through this thread. your testing was invaluable. i think im going to stick with durelene tubing. acrylic looks nice, but id rather wait for something more secure than push fittings


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> i just read through this thread. your testing was invaluable. i think im going to stick with durelene tubing. acrylic looks nice, but id rather wait for something more secure than push fittings


I gave up on mind because my setup was too complicated and I didn't like the way it came out. If you stick to a simple setup, it can be done. 12mm od tube will fit super tight w/ EK or C47 fittings, and that's how it secures itself. Or you can buy push fittings that bite onto and secure the tube. Lastly, you can go w/ compression type like the Primochill Ghost fittings.

Right now, there are new items and tubes coming out. Its catching steam but its very early. Perhaps a bit later on we'll have a ton of stuff and lots of tube options.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I gave up on mind because my setup was too complicated and I didn't like the way it came out. If you stick to a simple setup, it can be done. 12mm od tube will fit super tight w/ EK or C47 fittings, and that's how it secures itself. Or you can buy push fittings that bite onto and secure the tube. Lastly, you can go w/ compression type like the Primochill Ghost fittings.
> 
> Right now, there are new items and tubes coming out. Its catching steam but its very early. Perhaps a bit later on we'll have a ton of stuff and lots of tube options.


yeah, ill wait it out. canceling my order from ppcs of those ek hds. the big reason is time. i work full time, and go to school part time. fall classes start today 2 of my 3 classes are online, so i can't afford to have my computer down for too long. hell. i haven't even started sleeving my psu and i ordered my kit 5 months ago


----------



## icostin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiney2512*
> 
> nice work guy's
> 
> here's a few pic's of my current build -


Very nice bends there !!!!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> i just read through this thread. your testing was invaluable. i think im going to stick with durelene tubing. acrylic looks nice, but id rather wait for something more secure than push fittings


I have yet to see a c47 leak and I have been testing out of the fear of a leak. First test, I had a tube I bent to 90 degrees, filled with coolant and plugged both sides. I carried it around the house from room to room, throwing it in different places and no issues. Second test, I setup a simple loop (res, pump, rad) and half the loop was rigid with c47 (only had 2 c47s laying around) and then the other half was barbs with Primochill LRT tube. Running red dyed DI water, 12 hours over white paper towels and no leaks. I bumped it pretty hard a couple times as well. I actually had a small leak on one of the barbs, but none from the c47.

short version, despite how insecure they sound, those c47's are freakin solid

EDIT:

Additionally, there are the Primochill Ghost fittings that are of the compression variety. From what I have seen, you would probably break the tube before the fitting comes loose.

I actually just bought a bunch and the Primochill tube (clear) to start putting the loop together as my blocks are now coming in


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I have yet to see a c47 leak and I have been testing out of the fear of a leak. First test, I had a tube I bent to 90 degrees, filled with coolant and plugged both sides. I carried it around the house from room to room, throwing it in different places and no issues. Second test, I setup a simple loop (res, pump, rad) and half the loop was rigid with c47 (only had 2 c47s laying around) and then the other half was barbs with Primochill LRT tube. Running red dyed DI water, 12 hours over white paper towels and no leaks. I bumped it pretty hard a couple times as well. I actually had a small leak on one of the barbs, but none from the c47.
> 
> short version, despite how insecure they sound, those c47's are freakin solid
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Additionally, there are the Primochill Ghost fittings that are of the compression variety. From what I have seen, you would probably break the tube before the fitting comes loose.
> 
> I actually just bought a bunch and the Primochill tube (clear) to start putting the loop together as my blocks are now coming in


well, since canceling orders at ppcs come with a 20% restocking fee, i opted to have store credit. i didn't realize there was acrylic compression fittings until wermad mentioned it. so i used my ppcs store credit for some 4 pack rigid primochill ghost compressions, the silicone bender, and 1 4 pack of clear acrylic. hopefully that 4 pack is enough. anyway, thanks guys


----------



## XKaan

Advice needed: SO I'm currently bending\cutting acrylic for my build. I'm using the primochill setup - question is, after pulling the silicone tube out it leaves some olive oil in there, and then if I do any cutting or trimming at all tiny pieces of acrylic get in the tube and get stuck in there.

Anyone have a good method to get the tubes sparkling clean after bending\cutting?

Oh, and heres a shot fo the jig I made to assist with the process. lots of trial and error, but it works great after a couple revisions!


----------



## fakeblood

Warm soapy water should do the trick. Just make sure you rinse it with distilled before putting into the loop


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Advice needed: SO I'm currently bending\cutting acrylic for my build. I'm using the primochill setup - question is, after pulling the silicone tube out it leaves some olive oil in there, and then if I do any cutting or trimming at all tiny pieces of acrylic get in the tube and get stuck in there.
> 
> Anyone have a good method to get the tubes sparkling clean after bending\cutting?
> 
> Oh, and heres a shot fo the jig I made to assist with the process. lots of trial and error, but it works great after a couple revisions!


Why are you using olive oil?
There is no need to use anything like that.


----------



## XKaan

^ That is what primochill recommends you use? The silicone tube just doesn't come out after heating and bending without something in there.


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Warm soapy water should do the trick. Just make sure you rinse it with distilled before putting into the loop


Will do!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> ^ That is what primochill recommends you use? The silicone tube just doesn't come out after heating and bending without something in there.


Yes it does,you just need to twist it free.
I have not needed any oil or lube for any bends yet.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yes it does,you just need to twist it free.
> I have not needed any oil or lube for any bends yet.


From my limited testing I've done I did not either. I did watch the primochill 'how to bend' video though and they did said to put some olive oil on there to help remove the silicon rod. They also mentioned sanding the silicon rod a bit too help it


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> From my limited testing I've done I did not either. I did watch the primochill 'how to bend' video though and they did said to put some olive oil on there to help remove the silicon rod. They also mentioned sanding the silicon rod a bit too help it


The only time I ever use any type of lubricant for bending is if im doing a second bend on the tube and cant get the cord to fit. Any other time your cord should fit just fine.


----------



## wermad

used olive oil. works great but you have to wash and rinse the tubes thoroughly later on. I made a spiral and with the oil I was able to pull out the silicone. Without the oil, it easily got stuck.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> ^ That is what primochill recommends you use? The silicone tube just doesn't come out after heating and bending without something in there.


Pull harder.


----------



## Razarach

Use air compressor.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

All this talk about bending, angles, fittings, olive oil, and so on... What about clouding? Maybe this has already been addressed at some point, but has anyone had their acryic tubing in long enough to see the long term effects of coolant or distilled water inside the tubing, and if: A) it leaves any residue, and B) is a kill coil or biocide still necessary?

...I'll be jumping on the same bandwagon at some point and doing my own acrylic tubing, but I was just curious to get your feedback on those that have already had their setups for a while.


----------



## Sunreeper

There is no clouding because acrylic doesn't have the same plasticizer problems as tubing. People have been using bitspower crystal link in their loops long before this acrylic fad started and there has been no clouding. Tubing breaks down, which is one of the reasons why you have to replace it however, this does not occur with acrylic. Yes a biocide and killcoil are still necessary because your rig is still prone to algae and other things to grow. However, if you're using something that already had a built in biocide such as Mayhem's pastel range then a killcoil or biocide is not necessary.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Well after seeing disappointing pics of clouding on advanced lrt on other threads, I've decided to take the plunge into acrylic. I've just ordered a pile of 12/10 EK HD's from specialtech - B, tell 'em I need a free mug








And as E22 is just down the road from me, I'll pop down there tomorrow and grab some tube and some nitrile cord for bending. (plus they stock Lutro0 sleeving, so I'll be like a kid in a candy store lol)


----------



## fakeblood

Frosted my acrylic tubing. Gives it a completely different effect

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00632_zpsabf48f59.jpg.html


----------



## Kenjiwing

Interesting look on the frosting. I might do a single tube so I can see the difference in my build.


----------



## Killa Cam

yes it does. do tell...


----------



## fakeblood

Here are some snaps comparing the two

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00595_zpsfc8c9b21.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00594_zps6038d5a6.jpg.html
http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00591_zps1d4b89ef.jpg.html

All I used was a fine sandpaper and sanded it vertically


----------



## Sunreeper

Awesome job +rep!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Here are some snaps comparing the two
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00595_zpsfc8c9b21.jpg.html
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00594_zps6038d5a6.jpg.html
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00591_zps1d4b89ef.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> All I used was a fine sandpaper and sanded it vertically


Almost gives the water+dye the looks of pastel......very interesting......


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Here are some snaps comparing the two
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00595_zpsfc8c9b21.jpg.html
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00594_zps6038d5a6.jpg.html
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00591_zps1d4b89ef.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> All I used was a fine sandpaper and sanded it vertically
> 
> 
> 
> Almost gives the water+dye the looks of pastel......very interesting......
Click to expand...

I wonder if you put pastel in there if it will look like the transparent x1 coolant


----------



## cyphon

My acrylic and ghost fittings came in today


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Harbor Freight Tools had a sale on an 80pc rotary tool set ($7 dollars), and a 1500 watt heat gun ($8 dollars) so I jumped on it, since I'll be starting my new build soon. I also bought a 105 piece accessories kit for the grinding tool. Needless to say, I'll be ready for acrylic pipe bending and case mods when the time comes.


----------



## cyphon

Small space bending is giving hell...bout time to bring in the angle fittings to make the job easier


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Small space bending is giving hell...bout time to bring in the angle fittings to make the job easier


I'm hoping to find out in the next couple of days... I went for the EK HD fittings and 12/10 tube from E22 - just need a heat gun which I'll grab tomorrow


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Small space bending is giving hell...bout time to bring in the angle fittings to make the job easier


Lol, yuppers, my main gripe.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Lol, yuppers, my main gripe.


I went through like 3 lengths of tube to get a single run done









The angle fittings skid allow straight runs which will be much easier


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Small space bending is giving hell...bout time to bring in the angle fittings to make the job easier


That seems to be the general consensus. It's much easier to bend longer acrylic tubes with pretty consistent results but bending short acrylic tubes or bending close to the end of the tube is very difficult to get consistent results.
I can pretty much get the bend on the first try on an acrylic tube 6" or longer.


I think straight tubing still looks the best aesthetically and I've decided that I'm not going to put in more than one 90degree bend on a single line.

PrimoChill fittings are much bigger in diameter than EK or Bitspower fittings but I don't think it looks bad at all.


----------



## Kenjiwing

How is everyone doing their drains? Since we can't use qdcs I'd like to see how other people are doing it


----------



## shiney2512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> How is everyone doing their drains? Since we can't use qdcs I'd like to see how other people are doing it


This is mine, a T piece, 15mm extender, and a cap end.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> How is everyone doing their drains? Since we can't use qdcs I'd like to see how other people are doing it




Just screw in a 45 deg fitting when I need to drain.


----------



## mandrix

This pic doesn't show all the tubing...but the cpu to gpu's piece has several bends combined. I actually had less trouble with it than the one from flow meter to the cpu. As someone said, those short bends.....!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> How is everyone doing their drains? Since we can't use qdcs I'd like to see how other people are doing it


I'm another build I've put a screw cap plug (koolance makes em ) off a gpu block that I can just unscrew and drain most of it. Something like that would prly work.

For current build doing acrylic, I'm still deciding how to manage draining. Already short on space with it lol


----------



## JohnnyEars

I run my drain off a spare inlet on my pump top, which is the lowest point


----------



## luciddreamer124

Here's my drain, coming off bottom of front radiator:


----------



## kingchris

template tubes


primochill coloured is a little tougher then standard tube


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> template tubes


I like the look of that


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> I think straight tubing still looks the best aesthetically and I've decided that I'm not going to put in more than one 90degree bend on a single line.


Definitely disagree with this. I think builds w/ 11ty fittings plus only straight acrylic tubes looks rather silly.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely disagree with this. I think builds w/ 11ty fittings plus only straight acrylic tubes looks rather silly.


word. the bends of acrylic tubing is what makes it so appealing for me, not the fact that it stays straight. i prefer curves in my loop as i do in women


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely disagree with this. I think builds w/ 11ty fittings plus only straight acrylic tubes looks rather silly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> word. the bends of acrylic tubing is what makes it so appealing for me, not the fact that it stays straight. i prefer curves in my loop as i do in women
Click to expand...

Does that mean you don't prefer straight women?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Does that mean you don't prefer straight women?


No it means he likes women with curves...

Totally agree


----------



## RnRollie

or women who are (slightly) around the bend?

if you prefer nutcases, i can recommend a few exes


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RnRollie*
> 
> or women who are (slightly) around the bend?
> 
> if you prefer nutcases, i can recommend a few exes


Hey Rollie! You made it over then?

I have a few ginger exes....all mentalist crazy *****es too.

Just how i like it!


----------



## lowfat

Only one more bend to go. However it definitely will be the most difficult.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4050-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4047-1.jpg.html


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Only one more bend to go. However it definitely will be the most difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4050-1.jpg.html
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4047-1.jpg.html


Oh man... That CPU to RAD bend is going to be a fun one. Best luck to you!


----------



## lowfat

Last section only took another 3 tries but at least its done. Well besides the drain but that should be easy.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4054-1.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4055-1.jpg.html


----------



## kingchris

nice one. looks good


----------



## Solonowarion

very good


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> nice one. looks good


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> very good


Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> How is everyone doing their drains? Since we can't use qdcs I'd like to see how other people are doing it


Here is my attempt. Although this will most depend on your case.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4057-1.jpg.html


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks.
> Here is my attempt. Although this will most depend on your case.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4057-1.jpg.html


What's holding your Res up? Is it an optical illusion??


----------



## CAxVIPER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> What's holding your Res up? Is it an optical illusion??


I assume it is just the two piece of acrylic tubing. One from the pump and one from the drain port.

Going to take my first shot at doing some acrylic pipe tomorrow. performance-pcs screwed up and had ghost fittings labeled as coming in 4 packs when they were single so I only have 2. Should be able to finish assembling it monday though when I get them.

Anyone else using something besides primochill tube with ghost fittings? I ended out going to tap since I could get 6 feet for $3 instead of 8 for $16


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CAxVIPER*
> 
> I assume it is just the two piece of acrylic tubing. One from the pump and one from the drain port.
> 
> Going to take my first shot at doing some acrylic pipe tomorrow. performance-pcs screwed up and had ghost fittings labeled as coming in 4 packs when they were single so I only have 2. Should be able to finish assembling it monday though when I get them.
> 
> Anyone else using something besides primochill tube with ghost fittings? I ended out going to tap since I could get 6 feet for $3 instead of 8 for $16


As long as it is 1/2 O.D. you should be fine... any larger and it won't fit and any smaller and it won't secure right


----------



## kingchris

did all my test runs with cheap tube


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Well I would love to post some pictures but the wife went to a wedding with both cameras?!?!?
I love her to death but I'll never understand her...









King, those bends make me want to buy you a drink! After just one double 90o I was ready to pull my hair out!
I'll get some pictures posted Monday!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Good ol point n shoot!


----------



## Sunreeper

How'd you rotate the motherboard tray?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> How'd you rotate the motherboard tray?


You can order an inverted mb layout with Case Labs.


----------



## shiney2512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> You can order an inverted mb layout with Case Labs.


or you can invert the mb layout when you assembly the case, it's really easy to do, as the cases just screw together!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiney2512*
> 
> or you can invert the mb layout when you assembly the case, it's really easy to do, as the cases just screw together!


The M8 does not screw together. It's either reversed layout or not.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> The M8 does not screw together. It's either reversed layout or not.


This.

From what I can tell and have heard from owners, its not modular in this respect to just simply flip.


----------



## shiney2512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> The M8 does not screw together. It's either reversed layout or not.


sorry, I thought it was an sm8 (which is screwed together) not an m8


----------



## lowfat

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4114-1.jpg.html


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

So nice Lowfat!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/Stacker/Z9PE-D8 WS/_MG_4114-1.jpg.html


I saw your other pics as well but this angle shows what an amazing job you did on those bends. Very beautiful work there, Lowfat. You should be proud!


----------



## Solonowarion

Looks great Low. Nice radii!


----------



## kingchris

first rate colour in them tubes lowfat.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Nice Lowfat









I had a play today.. Using EK HD fittings and E22 12/10 tubing.
I'm going to redo the cpu inlet as it's just a touch too long. I only used 2x 90 degree fittings at the top rad to make space for a rear fan.
Oh and I managed to brave up and delid my 4670k


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Nice Lowfat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a play today.. Using EK HD fittings and E22 12/10 tubing.


Any particular reason you went with E22 acrylics instead of the EK acrylics?

Ps. Good work! Can't wait to see it with coolant!


----------



## JohnnyEars

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Any particular reason you went with E22 acrylics instead of the EK acrylics?
> 
> Ps. Good work! Can't wait to see it with coolant!


I'd heard good things about E22, and they're just down the road from me.
And that is coolant







Mayhems XT-1 clear (might add a red dye though) I've used pastel for the last 2 rebuilds and it's nice to see bubbles moving for a change lol


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I'd heard good things about E22, and they're just down the road from me.
> And that is coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mayhems XT-1 clear (might add a red dye though) I've used pastel for the last 2 rebuilds and it's nice to see bubbles moving for a change lol


I'm wondering if anybody has done any EK vs. E22 comparison or if all acrylic tubes are basically created equal.


----------



## blade4246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Nice Lowfat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a play today.. Using EK HD fittings and E22 12/10 tubing.
> I'm going to redo the cpu inlet as it's just a touch too long. I only used 2x 90 degree fittings at the top rad to make space for a rear fan.
> Oh and I managed to brave up and delid my 4670k


Looks really well done.









I have almost same tubes routing.
I used 3x 90 degree (1x dual rotary), 2x e22 acrylic tubes and 10x c47, 2x c48, and 2x extended.
I really like the looks of acrylic tubing, makes clean routing and cheaper. I still have 10x c47 left over and few 90 degree, I think will buy 2x e22 tubes for my arc midi r2 and delid 4770k and sell all those 1/2 in 3/4 od BP fittings.


----------



## Soxism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dropxo*
> 
> yea goto a local acrylic or perspex supplier in aus. and ask them about 1/2 inch tube. you can get about 6 foot lengths for like $3 each.
> this is the stuff i got, came to around $8.50 for 18ft (was all less than $10 for sure) all good clarity, and uniformity.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i wouldn't pay for that primochill stuff, when this is available.


OOoo Who and were is this company. Im in Aus too and looking for a slightly cheaper supplier.


----------



## yanks8981

Love the pics. We need a thread dedicated to acrylic tube build pics!


----------



## Nydrix

at the right top op the page, just beneath the banner, you can view all the images.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade4246*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic in question


WOW on the bendings of CPU/RAD link. Keeping mine simple because I don't think I have the patience for that!


----------



## Willi

Finally I found this thread after someone pointing out (not so gently, but it doesn't matter) that there was an acrylic pipebending thread (I only knew the copper one, and I'm a bit lazy when looking for threads, so my fault there).

The thing is In my country finding the acrylic pipe was hard, really hard (I got some Bitspower C47's and a pipe that fits rather tightly in them when I bought them).
It's been a while now since I've been looking for a silicon tube to start practicing my bends, but I simply can't find them anywhere (and it's over a month of intensive searching). The ones I found are way too thin to be of any help. I just need a 10mm silicon tube. I tried using other materials (I don't know where my head was when I thought a flexible pvc tube would work) and lost a bit of acrylic due to that mistake.

If anyone is willing to lend me a hand and send whatever they can, I'll pay for any costs, be it shipping, price of the tubing, some profit on the side, whatever.
I got all the parts for my watercooling rig just waiting for the bending to happen, and I can't wait any longer.
I live in Brazil by the way, so its a bit hard to simply buy online, since most stores won't even ship stuff down here. If someone has a link to one that does and that sells the tube I need, I would be VERY thankful.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## shiney2512

try Performance PC's they ship worldwide, it will cost you $20usd inc postage ($16usd)

they stock a range of e22 and primochill rigid acrylic gear as well.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38552


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiney2512*
> 
> try Performance PC's they ship worldwide, it will cost you $20usd inc postage ($16usd)
> 
> they stock a range of e22 and primochill rigid acrylic gear as well.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38552


They have these? I never even thought about buying acrylic outside of Brazil because I thought they would get here all crumpled, broken and unusable (Brazillian mail companies have a knack for destroying packages), that's why I never looked on PPC's.. I usually buy most of my stuff there tho.
Thanks alot, B-Neg, +rep.

EDIT: got the silicon insert, now its a matter of waiting. Can't wait to start playing with acrylic.


----------



## bowmanvmi

What's the verdict on choice of pipe? E22 vs Primochill vs other? And what about the fittings? Primochill Ghost Compression fittings vs EK fittings vs other? Can you mix and match these fittings, example: Primochill pipe with EK fittings?

I'm about to take the plunge so I thought I'd query the peanut gallery. Thanks!


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowmanvmi*
> 
> What's the verdict on choice of pipe? E22 vs Primochill vs other? And what about the fittings? Primochill Ghost Compression fittings vs EK fittings vs other? Can you mix and match these fittings, example: Primochill pipe with EK fittings?
> 
> I'm about to take the plunge so I thought I'd query the peanut gallery. Thanks!


Ive had no issues with e22 and c47s. The c47s grab on like a ******* vengence theres no need for the gimmick "compression fittings". I literally struggle to rip my tubing out of the fittnigs with the c47s honestly. Once you sand them down and pop them into the 2nd o ring they arent coming out.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Dbl post.


----------



## bowmanvmi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Once you sand them down and pop them into the 2nd o ring they arent coming out.


Is the sanding/modding of the tube required to seat the fitting?


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowmanvmi*
> 
> Is the sanding/modding of the tube required to seat the fitting?


9 times out of 10 yes. Before I knew about that I just jammed the tube in and thought it was okay. Really it was only going like half way into the first o ring. The problem is the tube diamter isn't exact so you need the sand the outside edges down a bit and I always touch the inside with some paper also to make sure it won't cut the orings. Once they are sanded down correctly you can actually see the tubing going past the second oring in the fitting.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> Ive had no issues with e22 and c47s. The c47s grab on like a ******* vengence theres no need for the gimmick "compression fittings".


It is way easier to install and remove the acrylic tubing when you are using the Primochill compressions.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is way easier to install and remove the acrylic tubing when you are using the Primochill compressions.


Ya I was going to say that sounds like the one benefit to primochill is the ease of removing it.


----------



## Willi

I like the bite of the C47. The pipe I purchased has some unusually thick walls, but it fit perfectly inside the C47's and the end result is VERY firm. I didn't need to sand down or anything, but it requires a bit of force to put the pipe in place. Its safe, very safe. I'm not worried about a two-pump setup ejecting any of the piping even on VERY restrictive systems.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowmanvmi*
> 
> What's the verdict on choice of pipe? E22 vs Primochill vs other? And what about the fittings? Primochill Ghost Compression fittings vs EK fittings vs other? Can you mix and match these fittings, example: Primochill pipe with EK fittings?
> 
> I'm about to take the plunge so I thought I'd query the peanut gallery. Thanks!


EK & E22 acrylic tubes come in 10mm ID and 12mm OD sizes. Both EK and Bitspower have non-compression fittings for the 10/12mm acrylic tubes.
EK and Bitspower C47 fittings are double O-Ring fittings.
Bitspower C48 fittings are skinnier and use a single O-Ring.
EK & Bitspower fittings grip really tight and you need to ensure you camber the edge of the tubes at an angle else (eg: 45deg), else you will tear your O-Rings when you put in your tubes. It helps to coat the tip of your tube in coolant prior to inserting into the fittings.
You'll need to ensure your tube is seated all the way to the end and past the 2nd O-Ring and if my memory serves me correctly&#8230; :

The "seating depth" of the tube on C47 fittings is 8mm.
The "seating depth" of the tube on C48 is 4mm.
The "seating depth" of the tube on EK fittings is 9mm.
I can't remember the seating depth of the PrimoChill fittings. I have it marked on my test tubes at home.

The PrimoChill acrylic tubes comes in 10mm ID and 13mm OD size. This means that PrimoChill acrylic tubes and fittings are NOT compatible with EK, E22, & Bitspower tubes and fittings.

I have not yet tested the E22 acrylic tubes (PPCS was out of stock at the time) but the 1mm size difference between EK & PrimoChill tubes do have a noticeable difference in both cutting and bend-ability of the tubes. The EK tube heats up quicker and bends more uniformly than the PrimoChill tubes but once you get the heating and bending techniques down, both are easy to work with.
As for EK vs E22 acrylic tubes, I assume the only noticeable difference between them will be the price.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bowmanvmi*
> 
> What's the verdict on choice of pipe? E22 vs Primochill vs other? And what about the fittings? Primochill Ghost Compression fittings vs EK fittings vs other? Can you mix and match these fittings, example: Primochill pipe with EK fittings?
> 
> I'm about to take the plunge so I thought I'd query the peanut gallery. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> EK & E22 acrylic tubes come in 10mm ID and 12mm OD sizes. Both EK and Bitspower have non-compression fittings for the 10/12mm acrylic tubes.
> EK and Bitspower C47 fittings are double O-Ring fittings.
> Bitspower C48 fittings are skinnier and use a single O-Ring.
> EK & Bitspower fittings grip really tight and you need to ensure you camber the edge of the tubes at an angle else (eg: 45deg), else you will tear your O-Rings when you put in your tubes. It helps to coat the tip of your tube in coolant prior to inserting into the fittings.
> You'll need to ensure your tube is seated all the way to the end and past the 2nd O-Ring and if my memory serves me correctly&#8230; :
> 
> The "seating depth" of the tube on C47 fittings is 8mm.
> The "seating depth" of the tube on C48 is 4mm.
> The "seating depth" of the tube on EK fittings is 9mm.
> I can't remember the seating depth of the PrimoChill fittings. I have it marked on my test tubes at home.
> 
> The PrimoChill acrylic tubes comes in 10mm ID and 13mm OD size. This means that PrimoChill acrylic tubes and fittings are NOT compatible with EK, E22, & Bitspower tubes and fittings.
> 
> I have not yet tested the E22 acrylic tubes (PPCS was out of stock at the time) but the 1mm size difference between EK & PrimoChill tubes do have a noticeable difference in both cutting and bend-ability of the tubes. The EK tube heats up quicker and bends more uniformly than the PrimoChill tubes but once you get the heating and bending techniques down, both are easy to work with.
> As for EK vs E22 acrylic tubes, I assume the only noticeable difference between them will be the price.
Click to expand...

I will add this to the OP as it saves me typing it all out again from my post in the copper tube thread....if i can ever find it in all the posts in that thread....


----------



## Odachi

Nice bends! I'm waiting for parts to do my first acrylic work (and first wc rig), and this is how an envisioned mine should look, with plenty of 90-degree turns and clean symmetric layout.


----------



## bowmanvmi

Another question: has anyone used the UV acrylic from Primochill, or seen any pictures of it? I'm debating on the UV option from Primochill, depending on how bright it is under UV or going a different route with clear acrylic and Mayhem dye.


----------



## w4rr3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowmanvmi*
> 
> Another question: has anyone used the UV acrylic from Primochill, or seen any pictures of it? I'm debating on the UV option from Primochill, depending on how bright it is under UV or going a different route with clear acrylic and Mayhem dye.


My rig with primochill UV green has a picture but its taken in almost total darkness so auto contrast might be a little high.
But I would say its bright enough


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bowmanvmi*
> 
> What's the verdict on choice of pipe? E22 vs Primochill vs other? And what about the fittings? Primochill Ghost Compression fittings vs EK fittings vs other? Can you mix and match these fittings, example: Primochill pipe with EK fittings?
> 
> I'm about to take the plunge so I thought I'd query the peanut gallery. Thanks!


I used the c47's with testing with E22 tube.
My build is using the Primochill tube and fittings.

Notes:
- Both c47's and compressions are secure as hell
- c47's require a you to have a more clean cut/sanding. compressions you don't need to be as precise
- c47's require a little more precise of a length than compressions
- compressions are bulkier in size, but look sexy
- E22 tube and silicon rod was a little easier to work with because the size of the tube was more consistent. some of the primochill tube is a little small on the ID
- Primochill tube is colored if you are into that (I like the clear)
- Both are a PITA to use in small areas and tight bends


----------



## managerman

Hello

I am about to undertake my first acrylic tube build. My goal is to use absolutely ZERO bend fittings...I want to do all the bends in the Acrylic.

Here is my build up to this point:



I read the guide on the first post (Thanks Bneg!) I am still unsure about how to measure the length of tube so as to line up to both fittings.

I am going to have a few long runs which wlll require 3ft tubes.....and at 10.00 each I want to get it right sooner than later.

Any advice on how to do this, and not have a waste pile of wrongly bent tubes...?

Thanks!

-M


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *managerman*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I am about to undertake my first acrylic tube build. My goal is to use absolutely ZERO bend fittings...I want to do all the bends in the Acrylic.
> 
> Here is my build up to this point:
> 
> 
> 
> I read the guide on the first post (Thanks Bneg!) I am still unsure about how to measure the length of tube so as to line up to both fittings.
> 
> I am going to have a few long runs which wlll require 3ft tubes.....and at 10.00 each I want to get it right sooner than later.
> 
> Any advice on how to do this, and not have a waste pile of wrongly bent tubes...?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -M


It is pretty impossible to use zero angled adapters. I was trying to do this myself, but it just wasn't working out. If you have places that need more than one bend in a small length, it can take several tries. I went through a whole pack of PrimoChill trying to get one particular bend that was two 90 degree bends in succession in different planes while getting the two leads the right length.

Measuring can be difficult. For me it is difficult to try to be too accurate on measurements waving a ruler that was short enough to fit in my case or a measuring tape that i could try to bend like the tube but it wasnt a good mock up at all. I tried all of this at first but then itd bend not right where i wanted it to or the angle wasnt perfect. Reheating a bend can be difficult to not warp or ruin the bend, so you get one try at it.

What has worked best for me is to focus on what angle bend(s) I need along with distance between bends for multiple bend runs, and then leave a decent length on both sides. Then start sawing off the ends a little at a time until it fits right

Edit: this is where I got before having to go on a 2week work trip. Should get back on it soon. The rad to mb block was the killer


----------



## kingchris

also source some cheap tube, it is well worth it

what you are looking at there is 10ft of tube to get to that point.


----------



## cyphon

Stupid ipad on mobile version of site did something weird and I posted a quote of my last post...


----------



## MetallicAcid

What are your opinions on this set up for my upcoming project? The case is a TJ07. The colours are not set in stone either









http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/Justin_Ohlsen/media/water1_zps0fd7a7cc.jpg.html

Does this picture even make sense?
MetallicAcid


----------



## JohnnyEars

I'm looking forward to it already acid, you do some awesome work!


----------



## cyphon

@MetallicAcid, Looks pretty jawsome! You gonna use the Pastel UV Lime Green? Would be a pretty sick match to those colors


----------



## managerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> It is pretty impossible to use zero angled adapters. I was trying to do this myself, but it just wasn't working out. If you have places that need more than one bend in a small length, it can take several tries. I went through a whole pack of PrimoChill trying to get one particular bend that was two 90 degree bends in succession in different planes while getting the two leads the right length.
> 
> Measuring can be difficult. For me it is difficult to try to be too accurate on measurements waving a ruler that was short enough to fit in my case or a measuring tape that i could try to bend like the tube but it wasnt a good mock up at all. I tried all of this at first but then itd bend not right where i wanted it to or the angle wasnt perfect. Reheating a bend can be difficult to not warp or ruin the bend, so you get one try at it.
> 
> What has worked best for me is to focus on what angle bend(s) I need along with distance between bends for multiple bend runs, and then leave a decent length on both sides. Then start sawing off the ends a little at a time until it fits right
> 
> Edit: this is where I got before having to go on a 2week work trip. Should get back on it soon. The rad to mb block was the killer
> ]


Thanks for the insight...it was very helpful! I just order some more tubing from a plastics company at a much lower price...

-M


----------



## MetallicAcid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I'm looking forward to it already acid, you do some awesome work!


Thanks Ears








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> @MetallicAcid, Looks pretty jawsome! You gonna use the Pastel UV Lime Green? Would be a pretty sick match to those colors


Well, none of the colours have been decided yet, but I agree that UV Lime would be schaweet!

MetallicAcid


----------



## CoreROGz87

Showing my just finish build,with a long list of modding .the 820 case gave me all the room I need to do what I wanted from 480 rad an up 240 an bottom .dual loops .nice midplate with fan intake x4 120mm.all acrylic rigid tubes an fitting from Primochill.Ek bitspower xsmp Asus water blocks .this is my first time using acrylic tubes an I think I did a really good job .



Will post my build soon ty for viewing .


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *managerman*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *managerman*
> 
> I am about to undertake my first acrylic tube build. My goal is to use absolutely ZERO bend fittings...I want to do all the bends in the Acrylic.
> 
> Here is my build up to this point:
> 
> 
> 
> I read the guide on the first post (Thanks Bneg!) I am still unsure about how to measure the length of tube so as to line up to both fittings.
> 
> I am going to have a few long runs which wlll require 3ft tubes.....and at 10.00 each I want to get it right sooner than later.
> 
> Any advice on how to do this, and not have a waste pile of wrongly bent tubes...?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -M
> 
> 
> 
> It is pretty impossible to use zero angled adapters. I was trying to do this myself, but it just wasn't working out. If you have places that need more than one bend in a small length, it can take several tries. I went through a whole pack of PrimoChill trying to get one particular bend that was two 90 degree bends in succession in different planes while getting the two leads the right length.
> 
> Measuring can be difficult. For me it is difficult to try to be too accurate on measurements waving a ruler that was short enough to fit in my case or a measuring tape that i could try to bend like the tube but it wasnt a good mock up at all. I tried all of this at first but then itd bend not right where i wanted it to or the angle wasnt perfect. Reheating a bend can be difficult to not warp or ruin the bend, so you get one try at it.
> 
> What has worked best for me is to focus on what angle bend(s) I need along with distance between bends for multiple bend runs, and then leave a decent length on both sides. Then start sawing off the ends a little at a time until it fits right
> 
> Edit: this is where I got before having to go on a 2week work trip. Should get back on it soon. The rad to mb block was the killer
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the insight...it was very helpful! I just order some more tubing from a plastics company at a much lower price...
> 
> -M
Click to expand...

Sometimes the way to manage the really tight bends, especially the compound / double bends, is to use a loop after the first one and double back to get a better lead into the second one.

Look at some of the pics of this build's bends, and you can see what I mean:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1385264/planning-started-acrylic-cylinder-build

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Right then,I have something new to suggest as a former.
The way to find angles as a carpenter is the use of our friend ,the Bevel.



Most bevels have the 'blade' mounted along the centerline of the tool and also have a rounded end,set your angle and form the tube round the blade and 0 block.

Much easier and endlessly reuseable.


----------



## JohnnyEars

I made a "jig" by screwing 2 pieces of wood batten to a board at 90 degrees and one at 45.. formed the bend around a hammer head and set it into the jig to cool at the right angle.


----------



## Juthos

I bought a lot of tubing, but with this guide first try bam :


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> I bought a lot of tubing, but with this guide first try bam :


Nice work. Excited for christmas much?


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> I bought a lot of tubing, but with this guide first try bam :


beautiful work with the piping there, just not sure about the ribbon around the GPU-inlet line... its a nice bend on itself, no need to bring more attention to it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Nice work. Excited for christmas much?


He's from near Milan, possibly he chose the colours based on the Milanese flag?









Or more likely, as he says in his build log, the theme colours were set when he bought this:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/img0057bck.jpg/


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> He's from near Milan, possibly he chose the colours based on the Milanese flag?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or more likely, as he says in his build log, the theme colours were set when he bought this:
> 
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/69/img0057bck.jpg/


Yeah fair enough. You cant deny that there is no candy cane though.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Yeah fair enough. You cant deny that there is no candy cane though.


No, but are you sure they have those in Italy at Christmas? It also looks like the barber shop poles, and the navigating poles on the canals in Venice.

I'm not trying to be funny, just saying that North American cultural associations might not apply to someone from elsewhere in the world


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> No, but are you sure they have those in Italy at Christmas? It also looks like the barber shop poles, and the navigating poles on the canals in Venice.
> 
> I'm not trying to be funny, just saying that North American cultural associations might not apply to someone from elsewhere in the world


Christmas is everywhere! But no When I was in japan christmas was pretty big. I tend to just think it everywhere. Yeah I totally get that though. Maybe Im just excited for Christmas.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> No, but are you sure they have those in Italy at Christmas? It also looks like the barber shop poles, and the navigating poles on the canals in Venice.
> 
> I'm not trying to be funny, just saying that North American cultural associations might not apply to someone from elsewhere in the world


yea i thought of barber poles, and i'm in north america, though the candy cane thing made me laugh


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> I bought a lot of tubing, but with this guide first try bam :
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Did you powder coat those GPU links and your pump housing? Bitspower doesn't make those pipes in white last time I checked.


----------



## managerman

Thanks for the advice earlier this week....I had a productive day bending tube....

I set aside the entire day to work on this build...and on the agenda.....Acrylic tube bending!! My goal was to complete loop 1. The CPU-MB-MEM-RAD-PUMP loop....and I did it! I learned a ton about the bending process and came up with a workable measuring system along with a decent job of bending. I only ended up using one 90 degree rotary....so I think I did pretty good reaching my goal of ZERO bend fittings...1 is not too bad.









Here is my improvised bending station...I found a part at work that worked well for forming 90 degree angles.....and here was my first bend....it only took three tries to get it right...



Here it is installed...



The next couple of tubes I got in one try...



This small tube that connects the MB block to the RAD was very difficult because of the small bends ...



This is the tube connecting the RAD to the inlet of the RES. It was a long run with multi directional bends.



Here is the finished loop...the last tube (the out from the pump to the CPU was a 24" long run.)






Next up: GPU loop....Hopefully this week...

-M


----------



## lowfat

12 hours later I am done the tubing on my Big Lian Li.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4226-1.jpg.html


----------



## Tom Thumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 12 hours later I am done the tubing on my Big Lian Li.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4226-1.jpg.html


Very nice job!!!! Looks great!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 12 hours later I am done the tubing on my Big Lian Li.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_4226-1.jpg.html


Nice. I luv the look of rigid tubing w/ straight lines & 90 deg bends.
I'm just now gathering the pieces needed for a similar color-scheme loop.
Is that primochill's clear tubing and fittings w/ blue liquid, or their blue tubing & just distilled, or ...?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Nice. I luv the look of rigid tubing w/ straight lines & 90 deg bends.
> I'm just now gathering the pieces needed for a similar color-scheme loop.
> Is that primochill's clear tubing and fittings w/ blue liquid, or their blue tubing & just distilled, or ...?


The tubing is clear w/ blue coolant.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sometimes the way to manage the really tight bends, especially the compound / double bends, is to use a loop after the first one and double back to get a better lead into the second one.
> 
> Look at some of the pics of this build's bends, and you can see what I mean:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1385264/planning-started-acrylic-cylinder-build
> 
> Darlene


Good tip, I redid my double bend one using this idea and I got it first try and it looks cleaner


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The tubing is clear w/ blue coolant.


Thanks for the reply.

I must confess that I didn't wait for it though and was just losing myself in your build log. Wow. Your 'Big' sure has went through a lot of changes in the year since you started that thread. I like the black painting you've done too. I might have to do a bit of experimenting with that Plasti-Dip myself.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Sometimes the way to manage the really tight bends, especially the compound / double bends, is to use a loop after the first one and double back to get a better lead into the second one.
> 
> Look at some of the pics of this build's bends, and you can see what I mean:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1385264/planning-started-acrylic-cylinder-build
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Good tip, I redid my double bend one using this idea and I got it first try and it looks cleaner
Click to expand...

Have you thought about changing the memory block to CPU block run to match the look of the new mobo block to rad run?

I think it would give visual continuity to the overall look in that area.

Darlene


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have you thought about changing the memory block to CPU block run to match the look of the new mobo block to rad run?
> 
> I think it would give visual continuity to the overall look in that area.
> 
> Darlene


I have strongly considered it lol. Trying to figure out how to make that work in the very limited space


----------



## gdubc

Maybe try to go vertical on that one with the 180° curve toward the top?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Maybe try to go vertical on that one with the 180° curve toward the top?


Only problem with that is that it would block the RAM block (not the end of the world, but it is there mostly for bling and covering it with a tube removes some of the bling)


----------



## gdubc

Yeah I see. That one is gonna be tuff. You could kind of mirror the other one but it would overlap a bit. Might look good, might look crowded. I admire your work there though.


----------



## cyphon

Went ahead and tried it out to see how I could make it work. It isn't the cleanest bend as is, so I may redo it, but what do you guys think?


----------



## gdubc

I like it. I thinks it keeps with general flow of the loop.


----------



## lowfat

Have you considered changing your loop order around so that you aren't connecting blocks that are so close together?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Have you considered changing your loop order around so that you aren't connecting blocks that are so close together?


This was the cleanest option.

Not included in the pic, but there is a 240 rad going in the top, the two rads will connect to each other. The components that you see and that rad are the only ones on that loop. I am doing dual loop (purely for asthetics), so the GPUs are on their own loop. Without crossing tubes over each other, there aren't many other orders I can do lol

I knew starting this project it would be a tight fit with everything I wanted to do, and said 'challenge accepted'


----------



## tpb211

Excellent bends, curious what other peoples "Bending Jig's" look like.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Excellent bends, curious what other peoples "Bending Jig's" look like.


Mine is a empty roll of medical tape.


----------



## cyphon

Depending on radius I've used an old compression fitting or two, a cap to a mustard bottle, an old can of compressed air, an empty tape roll, and probably something else at some point

You can make a former or use a bevel as Bneg suggests also


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Excellent bends, curious what other peoples "Bending Jig's" look like.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tpb211*
> 
> Excellent bends, curious what other peoples "Bending Jig's" look like.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is a empty roll of medical tape.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Depending on radius I've used an old compression fitting or two, a cap to a mustard bottle, an old can of compressed air, an empty tape roll, and probably something else at some point
> 
> You can make a former or use a bevel as Bneg suggests also


As long as you use the same former for all the bends,it doesnt matter what you use.
I use strip Alu as i can make a complete former


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As long as you use the same former for all the bends,it doesnt matter what you use.
> I use strip Alu as i can make a complete former


For consistent bends yes, but if you are doing the u-turns it has helped me to have different radius items that fit the space between two fittings better


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> As long as you use the same former for all the bends,it doesnt matter what you use.
> I use strip Alu as i can make a complete former
> 
> 
> 
> For consistent bends yes, but if you are doing the u-turns it has helped me to have different radius items that fit the space between two fittings better
Click to expand...

I'm still not sold on the U bends,I think I would of made my life easier and used fittings to bring everything in line or,as lowfat already said,routed the loop differently.


----------



## Dannnnn_the_man

Got into wcing, have waiting to do my first wc build. Acrylic seems to be the thing now adays, looks so good.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I'm still not sold on the U bends,I think I would of made my life easier and used fittings to bring everything in line or,as lowfat already said,routed the loop differently.


There are other cases where U bends are nice...like the candy cane rig a couple posts back

Aesthetically, I don't like all the fittings and adapters...it is also considerably more expensive than tube...to each his own though


----------



## suwit hrc thai

hrc high resolution computers shop thailand


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> hrc high resolution computers shop thailand
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


hrc thailand always is jaw-dropping. That's incredible. I guess once you build a case like that, the girls come with it. lol


----------



## DarthBaggins

now do the models come w/ a rig? lol


----------



## Solonowarion

It is Thailand


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> It is Thailand


So there is a good chance those aren't women, lol.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So there is a good chance those aren't women, lol.


Don't care, don't mind. Just give me that rig.


----------



## suwit hrc thai

*i'm pretty sure they are women
lol
some of them is in the FHM thailand's model







*


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Cmon guys,sort it out.


----------



## seross69

No Thai Girls are more fun than talking about bending stiff tubes









I spent a week there and fell in love 14 times at least









OH that was a fun week!!!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No Thai Girls are more fun than talking about *bending stiff tubes*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent a week there and fell in love 14 times at least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OH that was a fun week!!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> No Thai Girls are more fun than talking about bending stiff tubes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I spent a week there and fell in love 14 times at least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OH that was a fun week!!!!


Then do it in another thread....


----------



## wermad

Anyone have info on these:



These seem to be a lot better then the Ghost fittings since there's a way to grab the base portion of the fitting. Had to redo the Primochills a bit since they would undo when fitting the tube and screwing on the ring top.

http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/compression-fitting-for-metalacrylic-tubing


----------



## suwit hrc thai




----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone have info on these:
> 
> 
> 
> These seem to be a lot better then the Ghost fittings since there's a way to grab the base portion of the fitting. Had to redo the Primochills a bit since they would undo when fitting the tube and screwing on the ring top.
> 
> http://thinkcell.ekwb.com/idea/compression-fitting-for-metalacrylic-tubing


Interesting........

I think the ghost look a little nicer but the grip on the bottom part would make things waaaaaayyyyyyyyy easier


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Any idea what those are called? Who sells them? What size(s) they come in?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Any idea what those are called? Who sells them? What size(s) they come in?


I think those are EK's compressions for acylic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Any idea what those are called? Who sells them? What size(s) they come in?


EK prototype,not released


----------



## DaaQ

Anyone have any tips on E22 and Bitspower c47 fittings? Like in how do you get the tubing in between fittings that are facing each other. Such as between gpus or two 90 fittings.

There is no way to turn the c47 fitting once it is fitted onto the acrylic. Unless I am not sanding down the ends enough, but I would think you would not want the seal to be that loose.

Any tips especially from you guys that have done crystal link builds with all straight acrylic.?

Thanks for any tip/ideas.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Anyone have any tips on E22 and Bitspower c47 fittings? Like in how do you get the tubing in between fittings that are facing each other. Such as between gpus or two 90 fittings.
> 
> There is no way to turn the c47 fitting once it is fitted onto the acrylic. Unless I am not sanding down the ends enough, but I would think you would not want the seal to be that loose.
> 
> Any tips especially from you guys that have done crystal link builds with all straight acrylic.?
> 
> Thanks for any tip/ideas.


The trick is to put the fitting / tubing run together before you screw them in, and make sure the ending ones are rotaries, so you can place the whole config in at once and screw the rotaries down independently. That works for builds like mine where you don't do any bending just use a bunch of fittings.

Between GPUs, you're going to want to have the gpu config out of the case, put them together with the tubes, and then put both / all of the cards into the motherboard at once (easiest when you have a removable tray, or you can just have your case laying down.

Also, yes you need to sand the edges of E22 tubing so they are slightly rounded to get it in all the way into C47 fittings. But your ability to actually screw the fittings in without being able to turn the tube inside the fittings is dependent on having rotary fittings.

Hope this helps


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Anyone have any tips on E22 and Bitspower c47 fittings? Like in how do you get the tubing in between fittings that are facing each other. Such as between gpus or two 90 fittings.
> 
> There is no way to turn the c47 fitting once it is fitted onto the acrylic. Unless I am not sanding down the ends enough, but I would think you would not want the seal to be that loose.
> 
> Any tips especially from you guys that have done crystal link builds with all straight acrylic.?
> 
> Thanks for any tip/ideas.


Use 90's with a rotary, assemble the two 90's with the tubing and screw the assembly into place with the rotaries, a little at each end at a time so it goes down evenly.

Darlene

ninja'd again


----------



## zmegati

Is anyone working with this:

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2-pcs.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-tube-10-12mm-500mm-2-pcs.html

Do it pays to take and work with these tubes or not?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-adapter-10-12mm-black-nickel.html

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-hd-adapter-12-16mm-nickel.html

There are also of course and fittings...Slovenia near me and my little shipping...PrimoChill tubes and fitings cost me 80$ shiping.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Anyone have any tips on E22 and Bitspower c47 fittings? Like in how do you get the tubing in between fittings that are facing each other. Such as between gpus or two 90 fittings.
> 
> There is no way to turn the c47 fitting once it is fitted onto the acrylic. Unless I am not sanding down the ends enough, but I would think you would not want the seal to be that loose.
> 
> Any tips especially from you guys that have done crystal link builds with all straight acrylic.?
> 
> Thanks for any tip/ideas.


If its straight runs then measure the length,remove component at one end,assemble then screw the component back down.
You have to build in a linear way round the loop but you won't need rotaries.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

what is the smallest radius you can use for a 90 degree bend?


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> what is the smallest radius you can use for a 90 degree bend?


I have been able to make 90 degree bends using a 1" = 28mm piece of conduit joints bolted to wood board jig. So that's a 1/2 inch radius.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> I have been able to make 90 degree bends using a 1" = 28mm piece of conduit joints bolted to wood board jig. So that's a 1/2 inch radius.


awesome, have you got any photos?


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> awesome, have you got any photos?


of the bend and the jig


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> I have been able to make 90 degree bends using a 1" = 28mm piece of conduit joints bolted to wood board jig. So that's a 1/2 inch radius.


Fellow kentuckian we should get together and do some new bends lol


----------



## DaaQ

Of the jig?


Of some preliminary runs. The ones with blue tape are still being prepped, you can see at the base of the tubing where the sanding marks are, that's what the blue tape is for, to keep that to a minimum.


Another angle.


----------



## DaaQ

Still debating on using the E22 or going all primochill. Right now I was going to do the E22 and c47 in the motherboard compartment, and change over to primochill in top and bottom rad chambers.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Still debating on using the E22 or going all primochill. Right now I was going to do the E22 and c47 in the motherboard compartment, and change over to primochill in top and bottom rad chambers.


Why mix and match?????


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Why mix and match?????


Because I had ordered the c47/E22 right before the Primo had come out, I wanted to compare them.
I have enough space to use them both.


----------



## Solonowarion

Id stick with e22


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Id stick with e22


So far, my plan is e22 in mobo compartment, this is a caselabs sth10, primo would be in bottom and top radiator compartments. With case all closed up there is no view inside the rad compartments.
I have changed my mind/design several times so far, so I'll have to see. Previously I was going to use the black rigid so it was hardly visible. Then again like I said mind has changed several times.
E22 will be on the cpu/gpu/mobo blocks for sure. After that I'll see, the prep of the end of the tubes for c47 is tedious, dirty, and aggravating. I don't have a proper work space.


----------



## szeged

performance pcs finally gets all the stuff in that was out of stock last time i went to transition to acrylic....now they dont have the amount of black sparkle fittings i need

someone shoot my face off please.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> performance pcs finally gets all the stuff in that was out of stock last time i went to transition to acrylic....now they dont have the amount of black sparkle fittings i need
> 
> someone shoot my face off please.


That's bad luck


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> So far, my plan is e22 in mobo compartment, this is a caselabs sth10, primo would be in bottom and top radiator compartments. With case all closed up there is no view inside the rad compartments.
> I have changed my mind/design several times so far, so I'll have to see. Previously I was going to use the black rigid so it was hardly visible. Then again like I said mind has changed several times.
> E22 will be on the cpu/gpu/mobo blocks for sure. After that I'll see, the prep of the end of the tubes for c47 is tedious, dirty, and aggravating. I don't have a proper work space.


Yeah I understand. Personally I couldnt mix and match the tubing/fittings like that. Just set up an old sheet to do the ends. Throw it away when your done. Doesnt get amy cleaner than that.


----------



## Dan706

Thanks for the tips. Tempted to use acrylic in my Portal 2 themed build though I'm hearing that the rigidity of acrylic tubing can lead to more leakage - any truth in this?


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan706*
> 
> Thanks for the tips. Tempted to use acrylic in my Portal 2 themed build though I'm hearing that the rigidity of acrylic tubing can lead to more leakage - any truth in this?


Where have you heard that?


----------



## Dan706

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Where have you heard that?


Probably more of an assumption really from reading threads by modders who have used copper or acrylic and have posts like "X Weeks in, discovered another leak". Are they more susceptible to leaks as there's less "give" in the system, or are they just as water tight?

I love the look of this build.

Cheers (=


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dan706*
> 
> Probably more of an assumption really from reading threads by modders who have used copper or acrylic and have posts like "X Weeks in, discovered another leak". Are they more susceptible to leaks as there's less "give" in the system, or are they just as water tight?
> 
> I love the look of this build.
> 
> Cheers (=


I haven't heard of any issues if you get the tube in correctly. It can be tricky at times to get put in place but it is pretty solid in terms of leaks from what I've seen and worked with

Depending on which fitting you use you may need to be more careful on how straight your cuts are and what not


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I haven't heard of any issues if you get the tube in correctly. It can be tricky at times to get put in place but it is pretty solid in terms of leaks from what I've seen and worked with
> 
> Depending on which fitting you use you may need to be more careful on how straight your cuts are and what not


This for sure, the E22 and Bitspower c47/8 which is what;s used in build you linked, the end of the acrylic tube must be prepped. It's definitely not easier to do. The primochill rigid is easier than the Bitspower way tho. I have not tried the E22 or Phobia push fit fittings tho. The bitspower are "friction" fit and could leak if you tear up the o-rings upon assembly.


----------



## Jakusonfire

OK, so I have a question for anyone who has bought Bitspower C47's direct from the company. Do they come singly or in pairs? It seems like on the US stores like Porformance PC's they are sold as pairs but the BP website doesn't specify. I just ordered a dozen of them so I'll find out I guess but it would be good to hear from someone who has already.


----------



## Juthos

Singly


----------



## superericla

Just ordered some primochill acrylic and fittings.


----------



## Solonowarion

My lines are very tight. Using E22 and phobya push fittings. When I grab a line and try to move it, it moves the entire case. If you do it properly leaks will not happen.


----------



## DaaQ

I am now wondering if I should get QD fittings, so I can remove the motherboard tray as needed.

Any recommendations on QDs? The Swiftech are shorter length overall, anyone have used these ones yet?


----------



## Solonowarion

Didnt know they made qdc's for pipe yet. Not sure how well they would work seeing as the pipe is rigid. You need some flex to twist and remove the tubing qdc's.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Didnt know they made qdc's for pipe yet. Not sure how well they would work seeing as the pipe is rigid. You need some flex to twist and remove the tubing qdc's.


They could make one with a revolving base, so when you need to disconnect, all you need is spin the qdc end, while the end attached to the pipe would remain still. Would be a bit scary to use them. My favored solution would be to make a small length on flexible tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Didnt know they made qdc's for pipe yet. Not sure how well they would work seeing as the pipe is rigid. You need some flex to twist and remove the tubing qdc's.


There are the push release qdc as well, but those literally eject the other end out and would probably fracture rigid tube


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> They could make one with a revolving base, so when you need to disconnect, all you need is spin the qdc end, while the end attached to the pipe would remain still. Would be a bit scary to use them. My favored solution would be to make a small length on flexible tubing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> There are the push release qdc as well, but those literally eject the other end out and would probably fracture rigid tube


Yeah I would just work on a nice drain. With a good setup you can drain quick and completely.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Just ordered some primochill acrylic and fittings.


I descided to go with acrylic tubing for my 900D build. Im just not sure on the size or type of the fittings to order.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I descided to go with acrylic tubing for my 900D build. Im just not sure on the size or type of the fittings to order.


You need special fittings for the tube. You match them up to the tube size like anything else. There are really only two tube sizes that are used right now so it is pretty simple lol. There's 10mm/12mm and 3/8in/1/2in. Also you need an appropriately sized silicon insert for bending the tube.

The two most popular set ups are:

e22 tube with bitspower c47 fitting
PrimoChill tube with PrimoChill ghost fitting

More and more accommodations are popping up from all the usual suspects rather quickly. EK has been doing work in this area for example


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You need special fittings for the tube. You match them up to the tube size like anything else. There are really only two tube sizes that are used right now so it is pretty simple lol. There's 10mm/12mm and 3/8in/1/2in. Also you need an appropriately sized silicon insert for bending the tube.
> 
> The two most popular set ups are:
> 
> e22 tube with bitspower c47 fitting
> PrimoChill tube with PrimoChill ghost fitting
> 
> More and more accommodations are popping up from all the usual suspects rather quickly. EK has been doing work in this area for example


Perfect, thanks for the info! +rep


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> I descided to go with acrylic tubing for my 900D build. Im just not sure on the size or type of the fittings to order.


I used e22 and these phobya push fittings. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853

Very secure and cheap. I personally love the way they look.


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I used e22 and these phobya push fittings. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_997_1200&products_id=33853
> 
> Very secure and cheap. I personally love the way they look.


Are these like barb fittings? Nice looking build btw, I plan on having cleat tubes with clear water as well.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LaBestiaHumana*
> 
> Are these like barb fittings? Nice looking build btw, I plan on having cleat tubes with clear water as well.


Thank you. They are listed under barbed fittings for some reason but they are push fittings. The tube locks into them.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1264&products_id=37274
These are the e22 fittings. Also very nice but about 3 times as much. One thing I am not sure about though it there isnt much to grasp when screwing them in. There is a torx thread inside for tightening but I found that it was much easier to have the pipes inside the fittings before screwing them in and screwing them in as a whole. Especially for some tight spaces.


----------



## DaaQ

Ek is selling 16mm acrylic tubing and friction fit connectors now
There is some sort of kit as well that has a bending cord n saw ect on there too.
They are also gonna release compressions for acrylic, no eta for that tho.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> I am now wondering if I should get QD fittings, so I can remove the motherboard tray as needed.
> 
> Any recommendations on QDs? The Swiftech are shorter length overall, anyone have used these ones yet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Didnt know they made qdc's for pipe yet. Not sure how well they would work seeing as the pipe is rigid. You need some flex to twist and remove the tubing qdc's.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Didnt know they made qdc's for pipe yet. Not sure how well they would work seeing as the pipe is rigid. You need some flex to twist and remove the tubing qdc's.
> 
> 
> 
> They could make one with a revolving base, so when you need to disconnect, all you need is spin the qdc end, while the end attached to the pipe would remain still. Would be a bit scary to use them. My favored solution would be to make a small length on flexible tubing.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Didnt know they made qdc's for pipe yet. Not sure how well they would work seeing as the pipe is rigid. You need some flex to twist and remove the tubing qdc's.
> 
> 
> 
> There are the push release qdc as well, but those literally eject the other end out and would probably fracture rigid tube
Click to expand...

If you really needed QD's for a "pipe" build, wanting to maintain the aesthetics, and could accept having to drain to disconnect, . . . .

You could use Bitspower D Plugs with the C68 hard tube connectors.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6670/ex-tub-153/Bitspower_G14_D-Plug_Male_Male_Coupler_Set_BP-WTP-C07.html#blank

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12746/ex-tub-816/Bitspower_G14_Silver_Shining_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-WTP-C68.html#blank

The other option until the EK compressions come out would be Primochill's Rigid Ghosts. . . . . easy enough to disconnect and reconnect, but dreadfully bulky looking . .

Of course either way, you'd have to drain, which is the one major benefit to regular QD's.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

learning so much...


----------



## managerman

Thanks to all who have posted in this forum!!! Fantastic resource in learning how to bend acrylic









Here are some "bend" stats:

Total of 8 tube runs
A total of 26 bends!
3 of them required 3 foot pieces to start with..
Only had two screw ups.

Build almost complete....I was able to fill up the systems with Mayhems Pastel Orange. WOW! very happy!







Mayhems! I was able to leak test all day yesterday and had ZERO leaks







I am very happy with the Primochill Acrylic tubing and Ghost fittings...great stuff to work with!

Here is my custom fillup apparatus:



Here are a few preliminary pictures....I ordered another bottle of the Pastel Orange concentrate today so I can top off the reservoirs. I should have that by Wednesday and I plan on taking final studio pictures on Wednesday night.

-M


----------



## pilotter

wow.......pipe is E22?.Amazing.


----------



## managerman

Pipe is Primochill Rigid Acrylic 1/2" OD...Thanks!

-M


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> wow.......pipe is E22?.Amazing.


Looks like he said he used PrimoChill tube and PrimoChill ghost fittings.


----------



## zmegati

managerman that look incredibly beautiful ...









A few days ago i got acrylic tube 16/13 and the custom made fittings:



fittings are a perfect fit, I tested them under pressure and did not let the liquid out :



first everything seemed fine:



When I star bend from a CPU to radiators, constantly happened to me this:





I had a silicone tube inside...I slowly warmed, turning...I even tried to sand inside and then heat and nothing helped...I do not understand what I'm doing wrong...

...the only thing I can think of is that the pipes are not good for it...

Now I've ordered from EK 12/10 and fittings...so I tried it with them...I meant to take Primochill but shipint to me is 80$ at least


----------



## Kenjiwing

Some bends from my WIP build


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> managerman that look incredibly beautiful ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days ago i got acrylic tube 16/13 and the custom made fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> fittings are a perfect fit, I tested them under pressure and did not let the liquid out :
> 
> 
> 
> first everything seemed fine:
> 
> 
> 
> When I star bend from a CPU to radiators, constantly happened to me this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a silicone tube inside...I slowly warmed, turning...I even tried to sand inside and then heat and nothing helped...I do not understand what I'm doing wrong...
> 
> ...the only thing I can think of is that the pipes are not good for it...
> 
> Now I've ordered from EK 12/10 and fittings...so I tried it with them...I meant to take Primochill but shipint to me is 80$ at least


Not enough heat and not heated over a long enough section.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> managerman that look incredibly beautiful ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A few days ago i got acrylic tube 16/13 and the custom made fittings:
> 
> 
> 
> fittings are a perfect fit, I tested them under pressure and did not let the liquid out :
> 
> 
> 
> first everything seemed fine:
> 
> 
> 
> When I star bend from a CPU to radiators, constantly happened to me this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a silicone tube inside...I slowly warmed, turning...I even tried to sand inside and then heat and nothing helped...I do not understand what I'm doing wrong...
> 
> ...the only thing I can think of is that the pipes are not good for it...
> 
> Now I've ordered from EK 12/10 and fittings...so I tried it with them...I meant to take Primochill but shipint to me is 80$ at least


Couple questions:

Are you using an appropriately sized bending insert?
What are you using for a former?
After molten, are you twisting the tube?
After molten, are you pushing the end toward the bend?
After molten, are you putting a lot of pressure on the tube as you are forming around the former?


----------



## managerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> When I star bend from a CPU to radiators, constantly happened to me this:
> 
> I had a silicone tube inside...I slowly warmed, turning...I even tried to sand inside and then heat and nothing helped...I do not understand what I'm doing wrong...
> 
> ...the only thing I can think of is that the pipes are not good for it...
> 
> Now I've ordered from EK 12/10 and fittings...so I tried it with them...I meant to take Primochill but shipint to me is 80$ at least


What are you using as a form to do your tight bends? It is also very important to heat up not only the actual bend area, but the area adjacent to it...

-M


----------



## zmegati

Are you using an appropriately sized bending tube?

Yes...I measured the length i need then i warmed and bent

What are you using for a former?

I used a spray...see third picture from the bottom

Are you putting a lot of pressure on the tube as you are forming around the former?

No...I warmed so that the tube itself began to slowly bend when I held it horizontally.

As managerman says "It is also very important to heat up not only the actual bend area adjacent to it" I think I warmed up a little area









After molten, are you twisting the tube?
After molten, are you pushing the end toward the bend?
After molten, are you putting a lot of pressure on the tube as you are forming around the former?

No...I just kept it in shape but without further bending or twisting


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> managerman that look incredibly beautiful ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A few days ago i got acrylic tube 16/13 and the custom made fittings:
> 
> first everything seemed fine:
> 
> I had a silicone tube inside...I slowly warmed, turning...I even tried to sand inside and then heat and nothing helped...I do not understand what I'm doing wrong...
> 
> ...the only thing I can think of is that the pipes are not good for it...
> 
> Now I've ordered from EK 12/10 and fittings...so I tried it with them...I meant to take Primochill but shipint to me is 80$ at least


You aren't heating enough of the tubing. You need to heat up a wider area and likely it needs more heat. Make sure you are bending around something and not free handing it.


----------



## DaaQ

What fittings are those zmegati ?


----------



## zmegati

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> What fittings are those zmegati ?


A friend of mine made them for me...ther are a costom made...he made them similarly as PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> A friend of mine made them for me...ther are a costom made...he made them similarly as PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression


They are nice, what are they made out of? what metal?

They look better than the ghosts actually, they have the bottom portion accessible to keep from backing out of the port.


----------



## zmegati

Made by the steel...and then it is heated rapidly cooled in some oil and thus protect them from corrosion









honestly I did not believe him so i took one and put in water and left 24 hours absolutely no traces of corrosion was on them


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> They are nice, what are they made out of? what metal?
> 
> They look better than the ghosts actually, they have the bottom portion accessible to keep from backing out of the port.


Yes, this is the bane of the ghost fitting, lol

I agree those are some slick fittings. He could prly go into production with em assuming they work well and all and make some $$$ from all of us


----------



## zmegati

Now I have again and again seen this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHpreTceVpw i seed that he used a silicon solid tube without internal holes and I used the classical tube 13/10 with hole...

...s it possible for that reason I could not get good bending?


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Now I have again and again seen this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHpreTceVpw i seed that he used a silicon solid tube without internal holes and I used the classical tube 13/10 with hole...
> 
> ...s it possible for that reason I could not get good bending?


You talking about standard watercooling tube like tygon or advanced lrt?

Are you in EU or US? or Asia?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Now I have again and again seen this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHpreTceVpw i seed that he used a silicon solid tube without internal holes and I used the classical tube 13/10 with hole...
> 
> ...s it possible for that reason I could not get good bending?


Nope.

I still think you just didn't heat the tubing evenly or enough of it.


----------



## zmegati

You talking about standard watercooling tube ...im from Croatia in EU...in Croatia the problem is that you can not buy anything for watercooling except this:

http://www.links.hr/?option=katList&id_kategorija=0510&naziv=vodeno-hladenje

I am ordering all outside!

for example prices are too high...Titan in as cost 8900 Kn in $ this is 1700$







via web it can be purchased for 1200-1300$


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Now I have again and again seen this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHpreTceVpw i seed that he used a silicon solid tube without internal holes and I used the classical tube 13/10 with hole...
> 
> ...s it possible for that reason I could not get good bending?


I don't think that would have been the source of your problem.

Was the silicon hose that you used a pretty tight fit into the tubing, or was it loose and slid in very easily? If it was too small it might have been a factor, but more likely it was just what several here have already suggested, that not enough area of the tube on either side of the area to be bent was heated enough first.

FWIW, even though he did use a solid piece of silicone in that vid, the silicon bending insert that PrimoChill sells (or at least the one I received with my order of Primochill tubing) is a tube/hose, not a solid piece of silicon.


----------



## allenzilla

Is anyone using common household items for their bends? What are they


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allenzilla*
> 
> Is anyone using common household items for their bends? What are they


An empty roll of medical tape.


----------



## DaaQ

PVC electrical conduit joint pieces. Differing sizes.

@zemgati try an autoparts store for fuel line. Take a piece of the acrylic with you to find an insert to go in it. I think that if you are using regular pc vinyl tubing, when you heat it up it is probably very flexible. Plus I have noticed, that the insert kinda helps to retain and distribute the heat. If that makes sense.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Now I have again and again seen this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mHpreTceVpw i seed that he used a silicon solid tube without internal holes and I used the classical tube 13/10 with hole...
> 
> ...s it possible for that reason I could not get good bending?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope.
> 
> I still think you just didn't heat the tubing evenly or enough of it.
Click to expand...

This.

There is no other reason.


----------



## zmegati

Now i find this http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=38455 ...cost only 2,95...but the shipin to me is "only" 14$


----------



## DaaQ

Ek has a solid tube kit
Can you order from EK directly?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21263/ex-tub-2005/EK_Solid_Tube_Modification_Kit_-_10mm_12mm_ID_EK-HD_Tube_DIY_Kit_10and12mm.html?tl=g57c593


----------



## zmegati

Yes order from EK directly t they are in Slovenia, state next to Croatian and a shiping are onli 9$ to me, if it is a solid tube kit then ok because I also ordered and that kit...

...but I have looked the picture and does not seem to me that this is a solid tube...but I'll wait with the statement, while we do not arrive home, delivery is not longer than 5 days


----------



## DaaQ

It has the bending chords of 10mm and 12mm in it. Solid acrylic sold separately.


----------



## Solonowarion

When I was bending with a hollow silicon tube it was collapsing like that. Not as bad but I would definitely say it could be a combonation of both.

even back and forth motion while rotating the tube slowly.

I remember I slid some 24 gauge wire inside the silicon tube to stiffen it up a bit.


----------



## Odachi

Had some success with 1.5" circle patterns and a little rig to constrain the bends to certain maximum lengths. Agree on the hollow tube issues, I got some kinks in the process, but nothing too dramatic. I used Primochill 1/2" OD rigid tubing.


----------



## Heracles

Curious, what's the tightest possible bend radius using the Primochill Acrylic is? I only intend to do 90 degree bends but it's an interesting thought


----------



## managerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> Curious, what's the tightest possible bend radius using the Primochill Acrylic is? I only intend to do 90 degree bends but it's an interesting thought


This is a pretty tight one! (The tube going into the EK Terminal Block)



-M


----------



## Heracles

Reckon it could have been tighter or do you reckon it could snap?


----------



## managerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> Reckon it could have been tighter or do you reckon it could snap?


Probably a little tighter, but at some point there would be too much restriction...Tube would not crack if it is heated and cooled properly









-M


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *managerman*
> 
> Probably a little tighter, but at some point there would be too much restriction...Tube would not crack if it is heated and cooled properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -M


Awesome, thanks - re ally helps with my plans


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *managerman*
> 
> Probably a little tighter, but at some point there would be too much restriction...Tube would not crack if it is heated and cooled properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -M


Yeah and if you need more than 180 degree then there is probably some other way you could or should be doing something different lol.


----------



## Adrian-E

Can anyone tell me if I can mix rigid tubing with regular tubing within the same loop?

I'm just trying to save some money on fittings since I already have some for the regular tubing and I need rigid acrylic tubing to make some really tight bends.
Ill be using PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid Acrylic Tubing and PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and both will have the same inner diameter of 3/8in.

Of course for the rigid tubing ill be using the PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression fittings.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adrian-E*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if I can mix rigid tubing with regular tubing within the same loop?
> 
> I'm just trying to save some money on fittings since I already have some for the regular tubing and I need rigid acrylic tubing to make some really tight bends.
> Ill be using PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid Acrylic Tubing and PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and both will have the same inner diameter of 3/8in.
> 
> Of course for the rigid tubing ill be using the PrimoChill Rigid Ghost Compression fittings.


You sure can.


----------



## CapnCrunch10

New fittings for Primochill's acrylic tubing was just released (1/2" OD). They function exactly the same and appear to be the same size as their previous iteration, but the outer shell is a different design. Looks better imo.







They're both available on frozencpu and performance-pcs. Just click on new products for both sites to find them. It looks like it's slightly cheaper on frozen though for some packs.


----------



## cyphon

They look a lil sleeker, which is nice, but they didn't fix the 1 thing that people complained about.....

No grip on the bottom....

Maybe next revision? Or EKs will come out and we will just use those instead.....


----------



## Solonowarion

Those look very good


----------



## Adrian-E

Looks like performance-pcs have these too now


----------



## Odachi

GRRR







Those Primochill fittings look better than the ones I just bought and built my new rig with! Oh well next project I guess.


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Anyone want to buy a bunch of black Primochill fittings?









I really like the bevel on the new ones so I think I'm buying it.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Ek is selling 16mm acrylic tubing and friction fit connectors now
> There is some sort of kit as well that has a bending cord n saw ect on there too.
> They are also gonna release compressions for acrylic, no eta for that tho.


Those are definitely going on my rig. Bigger doesn't equate to better, but coming from a 3/4 OD soft tube setup to a smaller OD/ID all acrylic setup, I'd like to think that I can find a healthy compromise.


----------



## lowfat

Don't like the new ones at all. Cross-hatch > vertical lines. Ordered some more of the regular ones yesterday and don't regret it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Don't like the new ones at all. Cross-hatch > vertical lines. Ordered some more of the regular ones yesterday and don't regret it.


I was noticing that too, but in the first picture posted the new fittings have cross-hatch grooving, but in the other photos below it they look vertical. Hmmm

Took a look on FrozenCPU and the images they have of the new fittings are definitely cross-hatch.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

OK I see now they have them both. You can choose from "Straight Knurled" or "Diamond Knurled".

I rather like the look of the beveled edge, especially on the "Diamond Knurled" ones.


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Thought it was pretty self explanatory folks. Images of the cross hatch and the straight line version are both up there. They are available in both forms.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> New fittings for Primochill's acrylic tubing was just released (1/2" OD). They function exactly the same and appear to be the same size as their previous iteration, but the outer shell is a different design. Looks better imo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They're both available on frozencpu and performance-pcs. Just click on new products for both sites to find them. It looks like it's slightly cheaper on frozen though for some packs.


----------



## koniu777

Got my rigid tubing done, few pics of the setup. Would like to thank lowfat for helping out with some questions i had


----------



## lowfat

Bottom run looks awesome.









Begging for some dye though.


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Got my rigid tubing done, few pics of the setup. Would like to thank lowfat for helping out with some questions i had


Now that is super clean mate


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Bottom run looks awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Begging for some dye though.


thank you sir







who makes the safest dyes on the market, mayhems? don't want my blocks getting ruined and clogged up by a shady dye.


----------



## lowfat

By using acrylic tubing you are eliminating the biggest issue in water cooling, plasticizer. So you should be able to use a dye like Mayhems trouble free.


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> By using acrylic tubing you are eliminating the biggest issue in water cooling, plasticizer. So you should be able to use a dye like Mayhems trouble free.


Sounds good I might just go with Mayhems Pastel Ice White Coolant might look good with my setup, thx again for your help


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Got my rigid tubing done, few pics of the setup. Would like to thank lowfat for helping out with some questions i had
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks awesome! Great job.


----------



## kpoeticg

The Pastel UV White would look good in your rig too


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> Got my rigid tubing done, few pics of the setup. Would like to thank lowfat for helping out with some questions i had


Love the clear water look, I will be doing the same.


----------



## kpoeticg

Everything looks better in acrylic. I dont know what it is that makes clear water look so much better. I think it looks good, but i'm gonna end up going with color. Just haven't decided what yet. But considering he has the White with UV Blue look already in his rig, if he's thinking of getting Pastel White, I think he should def go Pastel UV since it glows blue too


----------



## cyphon

A
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Bottom run looks awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Begging for some dye though.


I agree with both statements


----------



## koniu777

Thx a lot guys, I'll probably get both pastel white and UV white if they make it, will have to see what looks better.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## kpoeticg

THIS is the UV White


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> THIShttp://www.frozencpu.com/products/21327/ex-liq-371/Mayhems_Pastel_Coolant_Concentrate_-_250mL_-_UV_White.html?tl=g30c337s1809]THIS[/URL[/URL]] is the UV White


Nice! I'll probably get that then, Thank you.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## kpoeticg

NP


----------



## zmegati

The package arrived

















Moding kit...Both silicone tube are in packag 10 and 12 xD



But guys see in the picture below quality of fittings and fitting the one-piece











Honestly I'm a little disappointed


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> The package arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moding kit...Both silicone tube are in packag 10 and 12 xD
> 
> 
> 
> But guys see in the picture below quality of fittings and fitting the one-piece
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly I'm a little disappointed


It does look a lil cheap.....


----------



## zmegati

but look at this


----------



## DarthBaggins

Knowing EKWB they would warranty that blemish/defect out for you


----------



## skupples

So, anyone here have experience with acrylic glass blowing? Is this similar but 10x as easy? (since the heat required is 10x lower)


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*
> 
> So, anyone here have experience with acrylic glass blowing? Is this similar but 10x as easy? (since the heat required is 10x lower)


I don't have experience with acrylic glass blowing, but it is pretty simple...probably much simpler than blowing. Just evenly heat a section of the tube until it becomes pliable and then bend it over a former to make the radius and cool it. The silicon insert is to keep the tube from collapsing of course

The tricky part is getting the lengths and bends just right...especially in tight spaces


----------



## zmegati

Hi guys i need advice, i do not know how to measure where i need start to curl tube, and certainly can not perform when i have two bandint to fit...PLEASE HELP


----------



## Ashuiegi

now we will have whining thread about gunk in loop from people wrongly accusing their coolant and things like that all over again, why not using the proven technology ,.....
i m pretty sure acrylic tubing will be degrading really fast with heat in a badly cooled case and becomes really brittle, making it horrible or next to impossible to remove after a while , you better have a proper drain port at the start lol,.....

i have experience in scientific glass blowing , and it s has nothing to do with that at all , much much more hard , the temp involved are 10x higher and when glass get soft it becomes like a tree sap , it much more liquid then acrylic.
Imagine spinning 2 tube , one in each hand , both have to stay perfectly in line while you spine constantly but each bit is only linked to the other by soft glup , if one side goes faster, it twist the hot part , if one side is not aligned it s useless ,.... even after 10 years of doing glass blowing , i have seen dude failing a christmas bulb , on the other hand the guy with 40 years experience can make a children do a christmas bulb just by holding the kid hand while letting him thinking he's doing it himself.

Please do not compare cheap plastic tube bending for fun and game with one of the most difficult craftmanship ever invented by mankind ,.....


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Hi guys i need advice, i do not know how to measure where i need start to curl tube, and certainly can not perform when i have two bandint to fit...PLEASE HELP


Double bends are more tricky. I approach it from figuring out where the bends need to take place and the distance between bends and then leave plenty of room on the ends and saw them down accordingly to make the fit.

A lot of people route their loop differently and use extra fittings and adapters to try to take out as many bends as possible. For example, instead of a double bend, they might do two angled adapters and put a straight run between them.

Something I have done for some double bends that some people like and some don't is to do a 180 bend followed by a 90 degree bend. So it goes out past the destination, then doubles back and bends to make the fit. Took me 1 try using this method to fix the a section that took me a whole pack (like 4 lengths) of tube to get right.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> now we will have whining thread about gunk in loop from people wrongly accusing their coolant and things like that all over again, why not using the proven technology ,.....
> i m pretty sure acrylic tubing will be degrading really fast with heat in a badly cooled case and becomes really brittle, making it horrible or next to impossible to remove after a while , you better have a proper drain port at the start lol,.....
> 
> i have experience in scientific glass blowing , and it s has nothing to do with that at all , much much more hard , the temp involved are 10x higher and when glass get soft it becomes like a tree sap , it much more liquid then acrylic.
> Imagine spinning 2 tube , one in each hand , both have to stay perfectly in line while you spine constantly but each bit is only linked to the other by soft glup , if one side goes faster, it twist the hot part , if one side is not aligned it s useless ,.... even after 10 years of doing glass blowing , i have seen dude failing a christmas bulb , on the other hand the guy with 40 years experience can make a children do a christmas bulb just by holding the kid hand while letting him thinking he's doing it himself.
> 
> 
> Please do not compare cheap plastic tube bending for fun and game with one of the most difficult craftmanship ever invented by mankind ,.....


woah woah. I didn't mean to offend anyone here. I too have been blowing acrylic as a hobby for ~ 7 years. That's why I was curious. From my own experience the non acrylic form of glass blowing (metal pipe, molten glass, kiln) is much more challenging then acrylic glass blowing. Like what the ladies & gentleman do over @ Waterford.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> now we will have whining thread about gunk in loop from people wrongly accusing their coolant and things like that all over again, why not using the proven technology ,.....
> *i m pretty sure acrylic tubing will be degrading really fast with heat in a badly cooled case and becomes really brittle*, making it horrible or next to impossible to remove after a while , you better have a proper drain port at the start lol,.....
> 
> i have experience in scientific glass blowing , and it s has nothing to do with that at all , much much more hard , the temp involved are 10x higher and when glass get soft it becomes like a tree sap , it much more liquid then acrylic.
> Imagine spinning 2 tube , one in each hand , both have to stay perfectly in line while you spine constantly but each bit is only linked to the other by soft glup , if one side goes faster, it twist the hot part , if one side is not aligned it s useless ,.... even after 10 years of doing glass blowing , i have seen dude failing a christmas bulb , on the other hand the guy with 40 years experience can make a children do a christmas bulb just by holding the kid hand while letting him thinking he's doing it himself.
> 
> Please do not compare cheap plastic tube bending for fun and game with one of the most difficult craftmanship ever invented by mankind ,.....


No.

What does gunk in a loop have to do with acrylic tube?

Seeing as its the PVC tube that we use now that causes the most problems with gunking and reactions,Acrylic is different in every way.


----------



## res0r9lm

small diameter pipe is very easy to bend. I have done alot of pvc conduit up to 4". If you know someone that is commercial electrician you might be able to get access to a heat box. Its like an oven you just put a full section of pipe in and keep rotating until its good an soft. When you pull pipe out it will like a piece of cooked spaghetti and you can make any shape you want. It doesn't harden right away so you have to hold the shape you want till it cools. good thing is very few connectors are needed lessens chance of leaks and save money on connectors.


----------



## Ashuiegi

I m not offended but people are often confusing things that are really not the same things , and this acrylic pipe bending is pretty much a game when glass blowing is a form of art since centuries , i'm angry because people don't realize what is real craftmanship and don't give it the respect it deserve.

At Waterford, they do artistic glass blowing , on a rather large scale , scientific glass blowing is done sitting at a desk with an acetylen torch just in front of you and using both of your hand to shape some glass tubes and rods.

it's way harder then artistic glass blowing like they do in waterford (which is already pretty impossible) because things need to be straight and to the correct measure in order to fit a bigger system/machine. For exemple , sample tube for high rev centrifuge need to be really well balanced otherwise it cause vibration and tear off the machine.

I think i need less concentration to do a physics or math exam then some glass blowing , it exhausting work really.

and for the brittle part , i ve seen enough acrylic exposed to radiation and heat , it does get really brittle.The gunk comes from the additives, if you think there is no additive in extruded acrylic ,..., people are really naive sometimes,....


----------



## Sunreeper

Just because x is not as hard as y does not mean that x is not an art. Some of the rigs made here with hard acrylic tubing I'd classify as art.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I m not offended but people are often confusing things that are really not the same things , and this acrylic pipe bending is pretty much a game when glass blowing is a form of art since centuries , i'm angry because people don't realize what is real craftmanship and don't give it the respect it deserve.
> 
> At Waterford, they do artistic glass blowing , on a rather large scale , scientific glass blowing is done sitting at a desk with an acetylen torch just in front of you and using both of your hand to shape some glass tubes and rods.
> 
> it's way harder then artistic glass blowing like they do in waterford (which is already pretty impossible) because things need to be straight and to the correct measure in order to fit a bigger system/machine. For exemple , sample tube for high rev centrifuge need to be really well balanced otherwise it cause vibration and tear off the machine.
> 
> I think i need less concentration to do a physics or math exam then some glass blowing , it exhausting work really.
> 
> 
> 
> and for the brittle part , i ve seen enough acrylic exposed to radiation and heat , it does get really brittle.The gunk comes from the additives, if you think there is no additive in extruded acrylic ,..., people are really naive sometimes,....


Fair enough! I never got into that side of acrylics, just trinket's, Smoking accessories. Payed for allot of my tuition with glass.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Just because x is not as hard as y does not mean that x is not an art. Some of the rigs made here with hard acrylic tubing I'd classify as art.


Very true... Both of you have valid points.

skill level does not justify what is and isn't an art. Glass blower's are quick on the trigger, because people call it a dying art.

If I could temper my pieces i would be more inclined to do an acrylic build, but i'm guessing some one will tell me it doesn't need it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> I m not offended but people are often confusing things that are really not the same things , and this acrylic pipe bending is pretty much a game when glass blowing is a form of art since centuries , i'm angry because people don't realize what is real craftmanship and don't give it the respect it deserve.
> 
> At Waterford, they do artistic glass blowing , on a rather large scale , scientific glass blowing is done sitting at a desk with an acetylen torch just in front of you and using both of your hand to shape some glass tubes and rods.
> 
> it's way harder then artistic glass blowing like they do in waterford (which is already pretty impossible) because things need to be straight and to the correct measure in order to fit a bigger system/machine. For exemple , sample tube for high rev centrifuge need to be really well balanced otherwise it cause vibration and tear off the machine.
> 
> I think i need less concentration to do a physics or math exam then some glass blowing , it exhausting work really.
> 
> and for the brittle part , i ve seen enough acrylic exposed to radiation and heat , it does get really brittle.The gunk comes from the additives, if you think there is no additive in extruded acrylic ,..., people are really naive sometimes,....


The gunk is specifically plasticizer,absent from Acrylic tube.
Radiation? In a PC? Really?
Heat? Nothing over 30-40c is normal,well within acrylic tolerance.

While i appreciate your defense of your 'art',no one said anything against it so i dont understand your tirade.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Just because x is not as hard as y does not mean that x is not an art. Some of the rigs made here with hard acrylic tubing I'd classify as art.


This ^

The original post had several things in it:

a) If you do not challenge a 'proven technology', then there is no innovation or progress
b) as BNEG responded. There is nothing in acylic that would react with any wc fluid that could cause gunk in your system. It is probably 'safer' in that regard than the flexi pvc tubing that we all have been using.
c) how exactly would the fluid temps make it brittle? The temperatures of the fluids and the case never get to a point where they would cause any issue with the acrylic. Yeah you don't want to throw the case around as the force of impacts may cause problems, but that isn't normal use for a desktop anyway, and that isn't the fluid or block's fault at that point.
d) how is acrylic in wc rigs not proven? I am pretty sure I have seen acrlyic tops for some time now. I have even seen acrylic tube (crystal link) for some time as well. What about reservoirs (as most of those are acrylic)? Furthermore, people use acrylic for all sorts of mods in cases....aren't the case windows usually acrylic? aren't there completely acrylic cases? Why isn't all of this shattering before our very eyes?
e) No one said it was difficult to do and no one said it was as or more difficult than blowing glass. In fact, everything I said and have read has suggested just the opposite. The one guy asked if it was 10x *easier* than blowing acrylic glass. Which the response was, not sure as I have never blown glass, but bending acrylic tube is quite simple. The only difficult part is getting everything cut and bent just right to fit between the two fittings. All in all, that isn't that difficult either, it is more of a frustration and patience thing.
f) Reiterating, why does something need to be difficult to be valid, look good, or be enjoyable to do? Really the glass blowing and acrylic tube are two completely different things are aren't really even comparable.
g) You don't want to do it, then don't. Instead of chastising us based on misinformation, incorrect assumptions, and a superiority complex, why don't you just show us up with your glass blowing ability and be the first to build a rig with glass tubes. Then rub that in our faces.


----------



## Solonowarion

What are you even talking about Ashui


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> now we will have whining thread about gunk in loop from people wrongly accusing their coolant and things like that all over again, why not using the proven technology ,.....
> i m pretty sure acrylic tubing will be degrading really fast with heat in a badly cooled case and becomes really brittle, making it horrible or next to impossible to remove after a while , you better have a proper drain port at the start lol,.....
> 
> Please do not compare cheap plastic tube bending for fun and game with one of the most difficult craftmanship ever invented by mankind ,.....


Either you're trolling or you have absolutely no idea about watercooling. Some of the biggest misconceptions about acrylics are that it yellows, turns brittle, and cracks over time. This may be true with cheap plastics, but it is not true with acrylics. Acrylics are a synthetic polymer of methyl methacrylate which is a highly impact & shatter resistant thermoplastic polymer that becomes flexible above a certain temperature and then returns to a solid state when cooled.

The glass-transition state (or the point where the acrylic starts to soften) starts around 85C and can go as high as 170C, depending on the composition of the polymers used. The coolant in a working, watercooled computer will never see 85C - 170C. There will be other catastrophic mechanical or electrical failure within the various components of a watercooled computer before the coolant and the acrylic tubes will ever reach its glass-transition state.

Could you kindly show me examples of acrylics actually becoming brittle in a 25C - 85C temperature environment (such as inside a computer case)? You know that acrylics have been used in watercooled computers for quite some time, well before acrylic tubes were being used right?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Either you're trolling or you have absolutely no idea about watercooling. Some of the biggest misconceptions about acrylics are that it yellows, turns brittle, and cracks over time. This may be true with cheap plastics, but it is not true with acrylics. Acrylics are a synthetic polymer of methyl methacrylate which is a highly impact & shatter resistant thermoplastic polymer that becomes flexible above a certain temperature and then returns to a solid state when cooled.
> 
> The glass-transition state (or the point where the acrylic starts to soften) starts around 85C and can go as high as 170C, depending on the composition of the polymers used. The coolant in a working, watercooled computer will never see 85C - 170C. There will be other catastrophic mechanical or electrical failure within the various components of a watercooled computer before the coolant and the acrylic tubes will ever reach its glass-transition state.
> 
> Could you kindly show me examples of acrylics actually becoming brittle in a 25C - 85C temperature environment (such as inside a computer case)? You know that acrylics have been used in watercooled computers for quite some time, well before acrylic tubes were being used right?


I'm sensing a Troll, careful not to feed them after midnight, lol







(in reference to the one ranting over someone discrediting glass blowing as an art, which I never got that from the op that started said rant)


----------



## skupples




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skupples*


----------



## WiSK

My bad...


----------



## Sunreeper

Okay guys this is getting a little out of hand there's no need for all of us to gang up on him


----------



## JackNaylorPE

One thing that baffles me ......

The guide states that ya only use Bitspower C47 fittings ..... however, there's only one C47 fitting (per color):

looking to do some of these:



I was thrown off for a while as all i could find was 25mm F X F extenders and from the images above, it seems to be only 15mm long.... after an hour of going thru the whole catalog, I fopund a "base Coupler" which I assume will close the deal ?

So say to do a 90 degree bend (where ya need a fitting), I'm assuming ya need 4 pieces and $41:

1. 2 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $23.00
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

2. 1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $12.00
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145

3. Bitspower G 1/4" Multi Transfer Base / Coupler - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C03) - $6.00
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12721/ex-tub-815/Bitspower_G_14_Multi_Transfer_Base_Coupler_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C03.html?tl=c101s744b145

And pairing it up with this

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=37277


----------



## Willi

um... so... I like acrylic pipes and absolutely loathe trolls... lets go back to the subject... like PPC's giving me a tracking number that doesn't work in brazil...
All I need is the silicon tube for molding and the extra fittings to start bending... anxiety is going to kill me x.x


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> One thing that baffles me ......
> 
> The guide states that ya only use Bitspower C47 fittings ..... however, there's only one C47 fitting (per color):
> 
> looking to do some of these:
> 
> 
> 
> I was thrown off for a while as all i could find was 25mm F X F extenders and from the images above, it seems to be only 15mm long.... after an hour of going thru the whole catalog, I fopund a "base Coupler" which I assume will close the deal ?
> 
> So say to do a 90 degree bend (where ya need a fitting), I'm assuming ya need 4 pieces and $41:
> 
> 1. 2 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $23.00
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html
> 
> 2. 1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $12.00
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145
> 
> 3. Bitspower G 1/4" Multi Transfer Base / Coupler - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C03) - $6.00
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12721/ex-tub-815/Bitspower_G_14_Multi_Transfer_Base_Coupler_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C03.html?tl=c101s744b145
> 
> And pairing it up with this
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=37277


Close. The 1st link is a pair, so for $10-$12 gets you 2 pieces = 1 pair.
There are c48 ones per color. They only have 1 o-ring inside, where the c47 has 2. So take $11.50 off that, and yes that's what it cost for that one section.
Now you could just bend the acrylic at 90 degree right there and save 35 bucks.

C48 link

Then you have the primochill acrylic which is 1/2" OD links HERE and HERE


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> So say to do a 90 degree bend (where ya need a fitting), I'm assuming ya need 4 pieces and $41:


Or just bend the tube and save $41?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> One thing that baffles me ......
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The guide states that ya only use Bitspower C47 fittings ..... however, there's only one C47 fitting (per color):
> 
> 
> 
> looking to do some of these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I was thrown off for a while as all i could find was 25mm F X F extenders and from the images above, it seems to be only 15mm long.... after an hour of going thru the whole catalog, I fopund a "base Coupler" which I assume will close the deal ?
> 
> So say to do a 90 degree bend (where ya need a fitting), I'm assuming ya need 4 pieces and $41:
> 
> 1. 2 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $23.00
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html
> 
> 2. 1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $12.00
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145
> 
> 3. Bitspower G 1/4" Multi Transfer Base / Coupler - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C03) - $6.00
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12721/ex-tub-815/Bitspower_G_14_Multi_Transfer_Base_Coupler_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C03.html?tl=c101s744b145
> 
> And pairing it up with this
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=37277


This motherboard Water block is made from aluminium so I think I would skip putting water in it..


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> This motherboard Water block is made from aluminium so I think I would skip putting water in it..


Asus thought about galvanic corrosion. They claim the anodizing can withstand up to 3 years of galvanic corrosion

RMaximus VI Formula
Salt Spray Test

Sounds like it works, but I'm still suspicious of aluminum and copper in the same loop, so I would go with a copper-based aftermarket block.
If you can afford the hardware and a very expensive loop, the motherboard/VRM block should be included in the expenses...

Also, I'm not completely sure if Salt-Spray testing accurately simulates galvanic corrosion with the presence of copper.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Asus thought about galvanic corrosion. They claim the anodizing can withstand up to 3 years of galvanic corrosion
> 
> RMaximus VI Formula
> Salt Spray Test
> 
> Sounds like it works, but I'm still suspicious of aluminum and copper in the same loop, so I would go with a copper-based aftermarket block.
> If you can afford the hardware and a very expensive loop, the motherboard/VRM block should be included in the expenses...
> 
> Also, I'm not completely sure if Salt-Spray testing accurately simulates galvanic corrosion with the presence of copper.


No they did not give thought to galvanic corrosion until it was too late and then they released a bunch of BS to make people buy the board.

galvanic corrosion is a electrical/chemical reaction +ions and -ions reacting. so it does not matter is you anodize it or not it is going to react and destroy your copper.. since the aluminium is too hard.. if you believe what they say about it being to hard to have corrosion... a 216 hour salt spray test does not prove anything(during this time there was very little air that could get to the board). I work in a industry that fight corrosion from salt water and it not the 72 hours of spray that will do the damage it is the next 72 hours with the salt and oxygen then you will have the corrosion.. Even high grade stainless rust in a salt water environment... Asus putting out a statement like they did while not completely untrue due to the way it was worded but giving the completely wrong impression has soured me for using any Asus product in the future..


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Asus thought about galvanic corrosion. They claim the anodizing can withstand up to 3 years of galvanic corrosion
> 
> RMaximus VI Formula
> Salt Spray Test
> 
> Sounds like it works, but I'm still suspicious of aluminum and copper in the same loop, so I would go with a copper-based aftermarket block.
> If you can afford the hardware and a very expensive loop, the motherboard/VRM block should be included in the expenses...
> 
> Also, I'm not completely sure if Salt-Spray testing accurately simulates galvanic corrosion with the presence of copper.


Here is what *anodized aluminium* will get you.

Here is another one *after 4 months of use*
Quote:


> Here is some more proof that corrosion is real and mixed metals are bad! Some horror shots of a Swiftech Apogee GTX after only four months!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Here is what *anodized aluminium* will get you.
> 
> Here is another one *after 4 months of use*


Bad when a company will say anything and mislead people by writing and doing test that have nothing to do with galvanic corrosion!!!! Why can't they just tell people not to use it and provide one in copper at a cost minus the cost of the aluminium that is on the board??


----------



## kpoeticg

I just think companies should stick to what they do best. And let other companies do what they do best. Asus, Gigabyte, Asrock either should contract a company like EK to make their factory blocks or just not include them in the first place. I'm sure alot of people would disagree with me (or maybe not), it's just my opinion


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I just think companies should stick to what they do best. And let other companies do what they do best. Asus, Gigabyte, Asrock either should contract a company like EK to make their factory blocks or just not include them in the first place. I'm sure alot of people would disagree with me (or maybe not), it's just my opinion


Marketing is what Asus does best!!!!


----------



## kpoeticg

LOL. Well that's a given but you know what I was saying =P
That being said, I am patiently awaiting Oct 29th so i can order my new RIVE BE


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> LOL. Well that's a given but you know what I was saying =P
> That being said, I am patiently awaiting Oct 29th so i can order my new RIVE BE


even with that is it really better or is it just all black with good marketing?? are there really any physical differences in the 2??


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Or just bend the tube and save $41?


This is my approach... especially for a simple 90 degree bend


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah there's differences. It's basically a Maximus VI RIVE if that makes sense.
Pretty much everything on the Maximus VI Extreme except for the M2 Duo slot is on the RIVE BE. The upgraded VRM's, Chokes, Capacitors, etc: 802.11ac wifi, onboard audio, even the OC Panel (even though most people don't care about that)

I like it cuz you get the PowerHouse of LGA2011/IB-E without having to sacrifice on the upgrade tech of the current gen


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> um... so... I like acrylic pipes and absolutely loathe trolls... lets go back to the subject... like PPC's giving me a tracking number that doesn't work in brazil...
> All I need is the silicon tube for molding and the extra fittings to start bending... anxiety is going to kill me x.x


Might be able to find a silicon insert at a hobby shop. I think the rc fuel lines can with. Just make sure it OD is about 1mm smaller than the ID of the tube


----------



## kpoeticg

Depending on the shipping service they used, sometimes a tracking number won't work til it crosses your countries customs. I ordered something on the OCN Marketplace from some1 in South Korea last week and the tracking number didn't register til like 5 days later. The first package they sent is in San Francisco right now and the 2nd package arrived at my house on the East Coast today. Custom's can be weird with stuff like that. Just lettin u know it Might not be PPC's fault


----------



## skupples

RIVE:BE is the culmination of the LGA 2011 socket. It's going to be the highest grade 2011 board released. It's also great marketing.

I'm waiting for it as well. It will go nicely with my 1tb EVO, 3 titans, and undecided cpu. I'm scared what's going to be inside my blocks when I do my tear down in a few weeks. Nickel blocks, + regular everything else. I would of gone all acrylic if i hadn't already spent the 600-700$ on tube fittings over the years.

do not trust asus with the built in waterblock. Everything else is still kosher. It went from being a proper material w/ bad fittings, to proper fittings & bad material. /sigh


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Might be able to find a silicon insert at a hobby shop. I think the rc fuel lines can with. Just make sure it OD is about 1mm smaller than the ID of the tube


I tried... ALOT. I just can't find the stuff on the right diameter here in Brazil...


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> I tried... ALOT. I just can't find the stuff on the right diameter here in Brazil...


Go to an auto parts store, look for fuel line or windshield or vacuum hose line.


----------



## kkorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Okay guys this is getting a little out of hand there's no need for all of us to gang up on him


Well said, but unfortunately it happens alot on this (and other) forum(s), immature mob mentality.

Sure 'shoot down' incorrect info, but too much of a good thing ceases to be good, and in this case becomes vindictive


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Close. The 1st link is a pair, so for $10-$12 gets you 2 pieces = 1 pair.


Yeak, I caught that "part thing" immediately after posting.
Quote:


> There are c48 ones per color. They only have 1 o-ring inside, where the c47 has 2.


I thot only the C47's were compatible....dunno where I got that in my head tho.
Quote:


> Now you could just bend the acrylic at 90 degree right there and save 35 bucks.


I love the look of the fittings ..... it's what made the MBK build so gorgeous.....but yes it is expensive so was planning on building. Will have some tight spaces where bending won't be possible.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Or just bend the tube and save $41?


'

See above post


----------



## Ghoxt

Subbed for the education. Good stuff here.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I love the look of the fittings ..... it's what made the MBK build so gorgeous.....but yes it is expensive so was planning on building. Will have some tight spaces where bending won't be possible.


Ah okay. Another option is T-blocks. Here shown with barbs, but I think it would be very compact with C48s. Then you can make 90 degree turns in under an inch square.



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> r
> This motherboard Water block is made from aluminium so I think I would skip putting water in it..


It's made from anodized aluminum..... HUGE difference. I am well acquainted with anodized aluminum in highly corrosive environments ... and a PC water loop is far from a corrosive environment.

I can understand the reluctance of WC purists based upon past experience with closed loop systems w/o a corrosion inhibitor and unprotected aluminum. But I have a bit of experience in this field as I have been designing, retrofitting and managing power plants, wastewater plants, etc for 30 plus years all of which have dissimilar metals issues to deal with .... all have several closed and open loop water systems and many of which operate in highly corrosive environments . Based upon this experience, I have no concerns using anodized aluminum in a loop, especially one containing a corrosion inhibitor.

Which is why I'm also not gonna run outside and drain all my car rads ...... engines are steel, heads are aluminum and Rads are copper w/ tin solder. The corrosion inhibitors in the anti freeze do their job very well.

Yes, I have read the articles, seen the pics but as long as we're not running sand slurries over the anodized surfaces or jabbing at them with piontie metal objects, I have no concerns about the viability of the anodized coating. I'd much more concerned with the unprotected tin soldered rads in a pure DW system which have direct metal to metal contact .



Worse case, if the anodizing was somehow abraded and if I somehow forgot to use an inhibitor, the aluminum being higher on the sacrificial scale would corrode and the anodized aluminum block would be Asus' problem. A simple cleaning / flushing would take care of the rest of the loop. On the other hand, tin is almost as high on the galvanic scale as aluminum and it has no protection.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This is my approach... especially for a simple 90 degree bend


The fittings will be used when there's not enough room for that simple 90 bend. And damn tough doing a tee w/ a heat gun








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ah okay. Another option is T-blocks.


Yes I have those in the build also ..... as well as Quick Disconnects.....the rotating 90's also give a bit of flexibility / stress relief and some easy disassembly points


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ah okay. Another option is T-blocks.


Yes I have those in the build also ..... as well as Quick Disconnects.....the rotating 90's also give a bit of flexibility / stress relief and some easy disassembly points


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> I tried... ALOT. I just can't find the stuff on the right diameter here in Brazil...


Which acrylic are you using again? If it's primochill, I'll send you some of my silicon!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> The fittings will be used when there's not enough room for that simple 90 bend. And damn tough doing a tee w/ a heat gun


Well yes a tee is not gonna work lol. And I know there are some places where it just won't work without adaptors. I tried to make everything work without adaptors first, then put the order in for all the ones I needed


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> galvanic corrosion is a electrical/chemical reaction +ions and -ions reacting. so it does not matter is you anodize it or not *it is going to react and destroy your copper*.. since the aluminium is too hard.. if you believe what they say about it being to hard to have corrosion... a 216 hour salt spray test does not prove anything(during this time there was very little air that could get to the board).


Actually while reasonable assumptions, there are several statements which are incorrect. No, there will be no "destruction of copper" because it is scientifically impossible; if you look at a metallurgical anodic index .....

Gold: 0.00
Copper: 0.35
Brass / Bronze: 0.40
Tin: 0.65
Aluminum: 0.75
Zinc: 1.25

So in any anodic situation, it is the metal higher on the anodic index which corrodes or is 'destroyed'. That is why zinc is used as a "sacrificial anode".....the zinc corrodes, and is placed there so that anything lower on the anodic scale will NOT corrode. In a loop, if the bare aluminum was exposed, the aluminum would corrode, not the copper..... the copper would "receive" the scale which is easily flushed and cleaned. As the user who supplied the water block pictures said

http://www.overclock.net/t/1200435/my-apogee-gtx-fail-epic-example-of-galvanic-corrosion
Quote:


> The copper was badly tarnished, *but no problem*, some of that blue toilet cleaner gel and a toothbrush got rid of all that scaly gunk *and brought it back to its copper shine*


A flush with a vinegar / water solution or commercial scale removing solution works well too. We uses these in power plant systems and in commercial heat exchangers to restore cooling efficiency.

The significance of the anodizing process is that it is very, very hard which resists abrasion.

I have been called into solve problems like the one you describes w/ SS and salt water .... very different situation.

1. Salt water is a very strong electrolyte. You do not have that condition in a PC loop if you use a corrosion inhibitor.

2. Your plant situation was also no doubt affected by actual current flow thru pipe grounding. I'd be willing to bet no analysis was done with regard to soil conductivity if any portion of the pipe is buried. Recently replaced an underground pipe with no dissimilar metals issues .... electrical grounds to the pipe resulted in current flow via the clay soil..... we found a 40 foot section of pipe where 80% of the circumference was just a tunnel thru the clay..... the pipe was gone. As you said, in your situation, no di-electric couplings were used..... in your PC loop, you have dozens (each tube breaks current flow).

3. You had no coatings on your metals

As for the salt spray test, I am familiar with the ASTM test procedure. To the contrary, it is very much exposed to air......it's spray and fog test.... It's done in a sealed chamber with plenty of air. We don't suffocate when out in the rain due to lack or air...... the test simulates use in a seaside or marine environment.

The board isn't tested, the block is and the purpose is to test the effectiveness of the coating.

http://sterlingperformance.org/corrosion-testing/
Quote:


> The Salt Spray Test (Fog Test) is an accelerated corrosion test used to evaluate the relative corrosion resistance materials exposed to a salt spray or salt fog at an elevated temperature. Test specimens are placed in an enclosed salt spray testing cabinet or chamber and subjected to a continuous indirect fog or spray of a salt water solution. This climate is maintained throughout the duration of the test.
> 
> Salt spray testing (fog) is popular because it is well standardized and reasonably repeatable. Salt spray tests are widely used in the industrial sector, marine, automotive, air craft, and military equipment for the evaluation of corrosion resistance of parts or finished surfaces.
> 
> Coatings provide corrosion resistance for metallic parts. Salt Fog Testing is an excellent way to test the permeability of coatings and seals. ..... The ASTM B-117 Salt Spray Test standard (and ISO 9227) are widely used reference standards *to determine normal corrosion resistance to ocean water type environments*.


The PC water loop comes no where near the aggressive conditions of"ocean water type environments" ..... salt is a very strong electrolyte.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Well yes a tee is not gonna work lol. And I know there are some places where it just won't work without adaptors. I tried to make everything work without adaptors first, then put the order in for all the ones I needed


Same thought here.... I'm actually going to do a air cooled build first .....I want to document the performance differences between air and water. I'll then complete the water loops piecemeal until it's ready to go.....will do the final assembly over XMas - NY holiday.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Jack: Edit your posts to include any new info,dont post one after another.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Sorry ..... On most forums I subscribe to or manage, responses to individuals are encouraged to be in separate posts, especially as above where completely different subjects (tubing versus galvanic corrosion) . If mixing subjects / personalized individual responses preferred here, will certainly comply.


----------



## gdubc

Jack, you can multi quote and respond after each quote and that keeps all on track to what you are posting about. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, btw!


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiiX*
> 
> Thanks alot! I miht have to use crystal tubing for my build as there are no space for anything else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where do you buy the tubing/pipes?


mcmaster.com carries the same tubing that primochill sells for their fittings. and @ $0.62 a foot









http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3561/=owm9lb


----------



## zmegati

Hi guys...I finally finished what I had planned ... there were no problems except that EKWB 140 leaks, not with fittings but seems to have little damage, tomorrow, he will be removed and welded or just a little closed with a silicone because it does not flow very much but maybe one drop in 15 minutes.

Here are some pictures of how it looks now, and frankly I am quite satisfied







I managed to make two bending







I even had a plan, and three but we stayed silicone tube inside so I had to cut acrylic to silicone pull out









I needed a silicone tube rub with oil ...but this turned out okay.

Tnx guys for help


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Looks great Zmegati!!!


----------



## cyphon

Great work. I am not usually a fan of those flow meters but I really like the placement of that one!


----------



## jleslie246

the radiator leaks? I would not advise silicon. Send it back.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by MiiX View Post
> 
> Thanks alot! I miht have to use crystal tubing for my build as there are no space for anything else
> Where do you buy the tubing/pipe


Here's some typical costs and potential purchase links for "fitting combos" I put together to get my head wrapped around the potential costs:

*TUBING* - ($10.95) - per 40" tube

E22 Clear Extruded Acrylic Tubing - 12/10mm - 100cm ~ 40" ($10.95)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=37277

COMPONENT CONNECTIONS - ONE IN / ONE OUT - ($11.50 EACH) at each Rad, each pump, each reservoir whatever:

1 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

*90 DEGREE BEND:* ($29.28 EACH) - For Tight spaces ...say a Rad w/ no clearances

1 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $11.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145

1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68) - $5.49
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68.html#blank

*45 DEGREE BEND:* ($29.28 EACH) - as above

1 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11:50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 45 Degree G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB45R)- $11.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10375/ex-tub-628/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_45_Degree_G14_Adapter_BP-MB45R.html?tl=c101s1305b145

1 x Bitspower G 1/4" Multi Transfer Base / Coupler - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C03) - $5.79
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68.html

*BULKHEAD FITTING*: ($40.78 EACH) - Fill port

0.5 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

1 x Bitspower G1/4" Female / Female Pass-Through Fitting - (Fillport) - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C04) - $9.45
Http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10364/ex-tub-608/Bitspower_G14_Female_Female_Pass-Through_Fitting_-_Fillport_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C04.html?tl=c101s460b145

Bitspower G1/4" Low Profile Matte Black Stop Plug w/ O-Ring (BP-MBWP-C09) - $4.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10362/ex-tub-610/Bitspower_G14_Low_Profile_Matte_Black_Stop_Plug_w_O-Ring_BP-MBWP-C09.html?tl=c101s743b145

TEE FITTING: ($30.74 EACH) - I'm using two .... one for fill port (Bullkhead Fitting) and one for drain (Quik-Disconnect)

1.5 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $16.75
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black T Adapter (BP-MBTMB)- $13.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html?tl=c499s745b145

QUICK-DISCONNECT ($54.95) - Probable off tee @ pump discharge .... female side stays inside foxed to case structure; male side with 3" flex tubing in drawer

1 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11:50
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14) - $23.50
Http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17965/ex-tub-1635/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Female_w_G14_Thread_BP-MBQDFG14.html?tl=c405s1954b145#blank

Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14) - $19.95
Http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17966/ex-tub-1636/Bitspower_Matte_Black_Quick-Disconnected_Male_w_Inner_G14_BP-MBQDMIG14.html?tl=c405s1954b145

TOOLS ($17.99)

EK Solid Tube Modification Kit - 10mm / 12mm ID (EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit 10&12mm) - $17.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21263/ex-tub-2005/EK_Solid_Tube_Modification_Kit_-_10mm_12mm_ID_EK-HD_Tube_DIY_Kit_10and12mm.html?tl=c633s2057b133

Idea was to scare myself into figuring ways to reduce the number of fittings.

Hope that helps ..... BTW, if I made any mistakes, please advise .... save me some shipping costs


----------



## Arm3nian

What do you guys use to cut acrylic tubing?


----------



## JayKthnx

dremel with a diamond cut-off wheel works pretty great


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> What do you guys use to cut acrylic tubing?


I use this one, works well.


This is an excellent addition to any modder's box.


*Lowes*


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> What do you guys use to cut acrylic tubing?


Hack saw. I use like a 6" blade and then file the end to make it even and smooth


----------



## DaaQ

Especially if your using E22 get some 220 grit and like 600-1000 grit pad to clean up the ends. If your using C47/8.


----------



## jleslie246

I ordered a six foot piece of acrylic tubing from mcmaster.com for $3.62 to practice with and hopefully get some good usable bends








They have the silicone insert too. Not so much the fittings. But if you wanted to really get wild, you could use real glass tubing! They sell everything for that.


----------



## Arm3nian

Do the hand tools give a clean cut? (will sand after)

I'm going for quite an extensive loop so I was wondering if a power tool would make my life easier. Not going to invest in some $400 tablesaw, max I'll spend is probably the amount required to get a dremel.


----------



## 4WDBenio

So when is the GLASS Pipe Bending 101 starting?


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Do the hand tools give a clean cut? (will sand after)
> 
> I'm going for quite an extensive loop so I was wondering if a power tool would make my life easier. Not going to invest in some $400 tablesaw, max I'll spend is probably the amount required to get a dremel.


The hand tools work fine. Power tools *IMO* will zip through so fast as to melt the end some. I feel you have more control over it with the hand saw.
Now a bench sander will make life easier, you can get for under $100 usually a 6" disc and a belt sander in one unit. But you would need to get finer grit discs. Stuff that comes with them is too coarse.

What will make you life easiest will be to make a jig up to do different bends. 90, 45, 30 along with measurements, and different bend radius items. I used grey pvc couplers. pic a few pages back


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> The hand tools work fine. Power tools *IMO* will zip through so fast as to melt the end some. I feel you have more control over it with the hand saw.
> Now a bench sander will make life easier, you can get for under $100 usually a 6" disc and a belt sander in one unit. But you would need to get finer grit discs. Stuff that comes with them is too coarse.
> 
> What will make you life easiest will be to make a jig up to do different bends. 90, 45, 30 along with measurements, and different bend radius items. I used grey pvc couplers. pic a few pages back


I'm not that worried about the bending, looks simple enough. I was going to buy a dremel and then use that to sand also, but $10 for a handsaw and $5 for sandpaper seems inviting.


----------



## DaaQ

I've yet to use my dremel. Have used the sander on every piece so far tho.
If your going with primochill, won't need as much on the sand paper.


----------



## Arm3nian

I read putting the dremel on a low speed prevents most of the melting, not sure if this is true. Idk what brand I'm getting, ek seems decent. There needs to be more threads about acrylic tubing, normal tubing is lame


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> What do you guys use to cut acrylic tubing?


The kit at the end of my post (above yours - No 808) has a tool \kit at the end .... includes the cutter and the thingie ya stick inside while bending
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I ordered a six foot piece of acrylic tubing from mcmaster.com for $3.62 to practice with and hopefully get some good usable bends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have the silicone insert too. Not so much the fittings. But if you wanted to really get wild, you could use real glass tubing! They sell everything for that.


So your not using Bitspower fitting as I believe yu said earlier the Mcmasteer car stuff was primochill ...how were you able to determine which is which at mcmaster carr ? Its my understanding that the like a mm different in size


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4WDBenio*
> 
> So when is the GLASS Pipe Bending 101 starting?


First, get an oxy acetylene torch... Then everything else is pretty much the same, just 10x hotter, and 10x more fluid. Well, depends on how glass, that "glass" is.


----------



## seross69

Has anyone tried something like this to make the cut's?? I have used these on stainless pipe up to 1/2 just go slow and it should cut the tube..



Some of the ones I look at said it would cut acrylic?? A friend that works with this in building plants also told me this would work. It is slow but it will work..


----------



## Arm3nian

^ Just hold the acrylic tube in front of your tx10 with 4 computers, it will cut itself from fear.


----------



## Solonowarion

Dont overthink it. Serrated something will cut it. Give it a little sanding.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Has anyone tried something like this to make the cut's?? I have used these on stainless pipe up to 1/2 just go slow and it should cut the tube..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the ones I look at said it would cut acrylic?? A friend that works with this in building plants also told me this would work. It is slow but it will work..


It would work yes. Actually just enough to score it and you should be able to snap it. I think it was Nate from E22 said that about scoring the tube and snapping it.
Now keep in mind E22 is a little thinner walled than Primochill.


----------



## skupples

That should work fairly easily. They make specific tools for that purpose even. The further around the circumference you score, the cleaner the break should be.


----------



## seross69

Yeah Just put heat shrink on the tube so you don't scratch it I was told...


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yeah Just put heat shrink on the tube so you don't scratch it I was told...


Blue painter's tape works well too. I'm actually using it to keep acrylic clean while sanding.


----------



## skupples

this stuff is soft enough that you could probably use a razor blade.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Has anyone tried something like this to make the cut's?? I have used these on stainless pipe up to 1/2 just go slow and it should cut the tube..
> 
> 
> 
> Some of the ones I look at said it would cut acrylic?? A friend that works with this in building plants also told me this would work. It is slow but it will work..


You gotta be REALLY careful with these. If you clamp down too hard too fast, it will just shatter the acrylic. It was taking me at least 5-10 longer using one than a hack saw + filing. Several times I clamped it just a little too much and it just cracked all the way down the tube


----------



## seross69

Yes I know it is slower but should get straighter cuts. or is it that much slower??


----------



## Jameswalt1

With a short hacksaw and steady back strokes you can cut the tube extremely straight very quickly, less than a minute. 30 seconds of filing afterwards for clean up will ensure the straightness. Like Cyphon said, those clamp pipe cutters are way too hit and miss. Just get a rhythm down with the hacksaw and it will take less than 5 mins per custom tube.


----------



## Arm3nian

Does anyone have that EK kit? Is the hacksaw in it any good?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Does anyone have that EK kit? Is the hacksaw in it any good?


I actually bought that kit just to check it out and now the saw in it is my saw of choice! Very good little saw and cuts VERY quickly with little to no snagging. Recommended


----------



## dropxo

It takes about 20-60 seconds with a fine tooth blade on a hacksaw / junior hacksaw/ coping saw.
If the material is positioned the right way (secured easy and comfortable height to saw at with straight hand) its not that hard to get a straight cut, which only needs minor edge sanding at the end.
I don't know why you'd want to do it that way and risk the crack from too much pressure.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I actually bought that kit just to check it out and now the saw in it is my saw of choice! Very good little saw and cuts VERY quickly with little to no snagging. Recommended


Looks good from the picture, hope it doesn't break the second time I use it like every other made in china tool at the local stores.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dropxo*
> 
> It takes about 20-60 seconds with a fine tooth blade on a hacksaw / junior hacksaw/ coping saw.
> If the material is positioned the right way (secured easy and comfortable height to saw at with straight hand) its not that hard to get a straight cut, which only needs minor edge sanding at the end.
> I don't know why you'd want to do it that way and risk the crack from too much pressure.


Don't say I want to do it one way or another just trying to figure out the best way to cut the tube. I also know that if you put much pressure when you are using this that it will crack. Also when you are using it on metal pipes they wont crack but do not cut right with heavy pressure. So light light pressure turning it around and around the pipe if the best way to use this on anything.. it takes more time but I know on other materials it will make a smoother and truer cut than doing it by hand with a saw.

I figured the reason why they had a saw with the kit is because of the cost. a good tube cutter like this is 30 dollars and up. but not trying to start a argument just getting information.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4WDBenio*
> 
> So when is the GLASS Pipe Bending 101 starting?


I know someone with a glass blowing shop who makes smoking utensils mostly but he makes super strong/thick stuff. I thought about having him blow something custom (some of his stuff is pretty incredible), but it would get ridiculous expensive.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I know someone with a glass blowing show who makes smoking utensils mostly but he makes super strong/thick stuff. I thought about having him blow something custom (some of his stuff is pretty incredible), but it would get ridiculous expensive.


Actually glass tubes would be so awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## gdubc

I bet he could make one bad ass reservoir.


----------



## dropxo

Fair enough, I'd agree that it would give the true/smooth cut, but would still need to sand edges to protect the o-rings.
I couldn't justify spending the extra cash, when basically the same end result is possible with either.
If your cut didn't come out straight with the fine saw, the extra time sanding it probably makes them similar in time spent per cut.
So the difference to me is more cost than anything, as slight rough or tool marks on the end of the tube is unseen, and not an issue becasue o-rings do the sealing.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'll prolly be using this..... variable speed , fine control with right angle guide of some sort



The interior beveling of the tube at connection point is something I haven't figured yet ..... meybe this

http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=618


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes I know it is slower but should get straighter cuts. or is it that much slower??


Takes less than a minute to cut with a hack saw tbh. If you take your time to line up the cut, secure the pipe so it doesn't move on you, and have a somewhat steady hand, it really won't need much sanding...maybe another minute tops. Using the tool, it took at least 5 minutes and I broke several pieces off causing me to start over. You could always have better luck, but just sharing my experience, lol.

If you use the primochill fittings, the ends can be pretty uneven without any issues as well. The c47s you will need a straighter cut.

This is the hack saw I use...costs less than $5 and again, maybe 30s to cut the tube mostly even and another 30s to sand it to where I need it. I got some fine tooth replacement blades for it (like 6 in the pack or so), which was less than $5.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-Mini-Hacksaw-T113/100063982?cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-100063982&skwcid&kwd=&ci_sku=100063982&ci_kw=&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969#.Ulo9bFDNVN0


----------



## seross69

For beveling the ID of the pipe I would get something like this.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You don't need to bevel the ID,only the OD.

Use a hacksaw with a high TPI to cut,the chances of the tube cracking using an autocut or a manual cutter for metal is very high.

I did have some glass bits made up by a lab glassware company,all broke trying to fit.......not recommended.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You don't need to bevel the ID,only the OD.
> 
> Use a hacksaw with a high TPI to cut,the chances of the tube cracking using an autocut or a manual cutter for metal is very high.
> 
> I did have some glass bits made up by a lab glassware company,all broke trying to fit.......not recommended.


Well they also make a tool for beveling the outside also. it is orange and I had link but can not find it now.



I have also seen these at lowes and home depot


----------



## pilotter

yep, going to look in the "karwei " for this tool.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> yep, going to look in the "karwei " for this tool.


----------



## mandrix

Dremel with the quick change cut off wheel worked fine for all my acrylic tube cutting....you can do a rough cut then center the end inside the tube and square it off... then if you are "hand-y" you can use the cut off wheel to taper the edge (or a flat lathe file if you prefer) .







Then a quick turn with some appropriate sandpaper on the edge and you are done.

Like I said, worked fine for me and way faster than cutting with a saw (I have all sorts of saws).

It's just all about what works best for YOU.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You don't need to bevel the ID,only the OD.
> 
> Use a hacksaw with a high TPI to cut,the chances of the tube cracking using an autocut or a manual cutter for metal is very high.
> 
> I did have some glass bits made up by a lab glassware company,all broke trying to fit.......not recommended.


The stuff my friend makes could be dropped 5 feet to concrete and bounce....it is pretty thick though. Still tempts me...something like a res. would be cool.


----------



## superericla

I use a metal/plastic cutting attachment on a dremel to cut my tubes, and then sand the ends to get a bevel. It's quick and very effective.


----------



## 4WDBenio

Well there goes the theary that Glass can never be considered ART for PC Aquariums.


----------



## friskiest

I bent some pipes for my TJ11

Thanks for the guide BNEG


----------



## B NEGATIVE

No problem,glad i could help.


----------



## superericla

I bent and installed all the acrylic for my build. Everything went off without a hitch and not a single leak is to be found.


----------



## ginger_nuts

If I was wanting to go acrylic in my rig







, instead of a new monitor, how difficult is it working with small bends and tight places?

Does the acrylic have any give?

Because I am failing to see how you manage to insert the tubing when you have two connectors on different planes at 90 degrees to each other.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If I was wanting to go acrylic in my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , instead of a new monitor, how difficult is it working with small bends and tight places?
> 
> Does the acrylic have any give?
> 
> Because I am failing to see how you manage to insert the tubing when you have two connectors on different planes at 90 degrees to each other.


The small area tight bends are the hardest part and it definitely takes some patience. The acrylic gives a little tiny bit, but not that much. Before you completely secure the tube in the fitting, you can move it around a good bit, especially with the primochill fittings, which helps a ton in terms of fitting a tube with bends to fittings on two different planes.


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> The stuff my friend makes could be dropped 5 feet to concrete and bounce....it is pretty thick though. Still tempts me...something like a res. would be cool.


so he makes pyrex*?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> ..... how difficult is it working with small bends and tight places?
> 
> Does the acrylic have any give?
> 
> Because I am failing to see how you manage to insert the tubing when you have two connectors on different planes at 90 degrees to each other.


That was one of the reasons I was going to use the rotating 90 degree bends in thos tight places.

< == If I's a few mm short here
|
|
|
|_________ 90 <== rotating this 90 a degree or so should help

*Speaking of which, 2 questions which I apologize if already been answered somewhere in this 86 page thread*

1. Minimum radius bend should be ?

2. What temps ya using on the heat gun ?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> If I was wanting to go acrylic in my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , instead of a new monitor, how difficult is it working with small bends and tight places?
> 
> Does the acrylic have any give?
> 
> Because I am failing to see how you manage to insert the tubing when you have two connectors on different planes at 90 degrees to each other.


Depends on how perfect you want things. If you don't care If your bends are a few degrees off then it isn't bad. But if can be extremely time consuming if you want exact 90 degree angles everywhere as there is a good chance you'd need to redo a few runs. Especially if this is your first acrylic build.

The bends have a few millimetres of play. Primochill ones definitely are easier to work with here.

With straight tight runs you want to pull the 90 degree fittings off the block. Insert the tubing. Then screw the fitting and fittings in place.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Cheers for everyone helping. I might just give it a try. After all whats n extra $150 on a loop.


----------



## Arm3nian

Do you guys use dyes in your loops? Seems much more hassle free with acrylic tubing (avoid plasticizer and fogging)


----------



## SHUTTEHFACE

Does anyone know where I can find 3/4 OD, 1/2 ID rigid acrylic tubing? Does it even exist?

Thanks!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHUTTEHFACE*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find 3/4 OD, 1/2 ID rigid acrylic tubing? Does it even exist?
> 
> Thanks!


Looks like McMaster-Carr has lots of different sizes, including 3/4" OD - 1/2" ID.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> mcmaster.com carries the same tubing that primochill sells for their fittings. and @ $0.62 a foot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3561/=owm9lb


Do you already know of fittings in that size? If so, can you spare a link?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Do you guys use dyes in your loops? Seems much more hassle free with acrylic tubing (avoid plasticizer and fogging)


I use a ton of dye in my loops. Using acrylic should eliminate all problems in a loop. Just make sure you clea our your radiators thoroughly.


----------



## managerman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> With a short hacksaw and steady back strokes you can cut the tube extremely straight very quickly, less than a minute. 30 seconds of filing afterwards for clean up will ensure the straightness. Like Cyphon said, those clamp pipe cutters are way too hit and miss. Just get a rhythm down with the hacksaw and it will take less than 5 mins per custom tube.


James is spot on here....10.00 6" hacksaw from Home Depot works wonders... Grab an extra blade too.

-M


----------



## MrMangs

When i did my acrylic work I also found a short hacksaw with a fine toothed blade did the trick very well. Just be light on the hand and execute some patience and you will get a nice clean cut. Bought a pipe cutter but found it uttery usesless for acrylic, was a cheapo one meant for copper tubes so I wasn't to surprised.

What I found helpful was to have some sort of support when cutting. I managed to find a aluminium u-profile at my local hardware/building supply store wich fit the acrylic tube like a glove (the acrylic tube fit inside the "u"). Made it easy to hold on to the tube when cutting and served as a guide when sanding down the edge.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHUTTEHFACE*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can find 3/4 OD, 1/2 ID rigid acrylic tubing? Does it even exist?
> 
> Thanks!


See the Mayems thread .... lotta peeps using there

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *managerman*
> 
> James is spot on here....10.00 6" hacksaw from Home Depot works wonders... Grab an extra blade too.


One comes in the tool kit w/ the silicone thingie.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21263/ex-tub-2005/EK_Solid_Tube_Modification_Kit_-_10mm_12mm_ID_EK-HD_Tube_DIY_Kit_10and12mm.html?tl=c633s2057b133
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMangs*
> 
> What I found helpful was to have some sort of support when cutting. I managed to find a aluminium u-profile at my local hardware/building supply store wich fit the acrylic tube like a glove (the acrylic tube fit inside the "u"). Made it easy to hold on to the tube when cutting and served as a guide when sanding down the edge.


That's a good idea ..... Using the scroll saw (already sitting on work bench) on the top of page 85, I'm planning on using a backer board to pull it along which should give me solid 2 hand control of the piece.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> See the Mayems thread .... lotta peeps using there
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club
> One comes in the tool kit w/ the silicone thingie.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21263/ex-tub-2005/EK_Solid_Tube_Modification_Kit_-_10mm_12mm_ID_EK-HD_Tube_DIY_Kit_10and12mm.html?tl=c633s2057b133


Why pay $18 plus shipping when you can get a mini hack saw for under $5 from Home Depot? You probably won't need both inserts in that kit and the same length of the kind you need is only $3 when you buy your tube.


----------



## SHUTTEHFACE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looks like McMaster-Carr has lots of different sizes, including 3/4" OD - 1/2" ID.
> Do you already know of fittings in that size? If so, can you spare a link?


Awesome thanks mate! Do I need special fittings for rigid acrylic or can I use the ones I already have? I'm using the bits power ones. Can I get the solid silicon tube from that website also?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHUTTEHFACE*
> 
> Awesome thanks mate! Do I need special fittings for rigid acrylic or can I use the ones I already have? I'm using the bits power ones. Can I get the solid silicon tube from that website also?


You won't be able to use the regular barb or compressions. There are special compressions that you can use (Primochill Ghost for example) and there are push fittings that you can use (Bitspower c47 for example)


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You won't be able to use the regular barb or compressions. There are special compressions that you can use (Primochill Ghost for example) and there are push fittings that you can use (Bitspower c47 for example)


Post 1, if I read it correctly, says the Bitspower fitting don't work with the primochill tubes.....only with the EH 22 tubes. Was just discussing this issue with Mark @ FrozenCPU.com


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> You won't be able to use the regular barb or compressions. There are special compressions that you can use (Primochill Ghost for example) and there are push fittings that you can use (Bitspower c47 for example)
> 
> 
> 
> Post 1, if I read it correctly, says the Bitspower fitting don't work with the primochill tubes.....only with the EH 22 tubes. Was just discussing this issue with Mark @ FrozenCPU.com
Click to expand...

Correct,Primochill tube and fittings are not interchangeable with anything else


----------



## Gardnerphotos

So I bought some E22 12/10 hard tubing and bending tube but I can't for the life of me get the silicon into the acrylic tube!


----------



## JohnnyEars

I bought the nitrile bending cord from e22 to go with the tube and it fits a treat (cheap too)


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> I bought the nitrile bending cord from e22 to go with the tube and it fits a treat (cheap too)


did you have to use anything to get it in? I can get it in about 8cm but then it gets stuck


----------



## Gardnerphotos

no problem, managed to solve it by giving the cord a good stretch


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> So I bought some E22 12/10 hard tubing and bending tube but I can't for the life of me get the silicon into the acrylic tube!


Where'd you buy the silicone ? Did you buy this ?

EK Solid Tube Modification Kit - 10mm / 12mm ID (EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit 10&12mm) - $17.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21263/ex-tub-2005/EK_Solid_Tube_Modification_Kit_-_10mm_12mm_ID_EK-HD_Tube_DIY_Kit_10and12mm.html?tl=c633s2057b133

Note: Two sizes are in the kit.... 10mm and 12mm


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Does having rigid tubing mean that I don't have to drain and maintain my system as frequently as soft tubing? Seeing as plastisizer is all but non existent in acrylic tubing, I just want to be clear on the other added benefits (if any), aside from crystal clear tubes and not having plastisizer.. Thanks.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Where'd you buy the silicone ? Did you buy this ?
> 
> EK Solid Tube Modification Kit - 10mm / 12mm ID (EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit 10&12mm) - $17.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21263/ex-tub-2005/EK_Solid_Tube_Modification_Kit_-_10mm_12mm_ID_EK-HD_Tube_DIY_Kit_10and12mm.html?tl=c633s2057b133
> 
> Note: Two sizes are in the kit.... 10mm and 12mm


got the one that nate sells on E22 which now works perfectly because I gave it a bit of a stretch


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

That reminds me. I've been meaning to ask about something.

Primochill, in their acrylic tubing how-to videos, recommends that if you have any trouble fitting the silicon tube to use a little olive oil on it. I've little doubt it would help with the inserting & bending, but how do you clean it afterward and know that you have gotten all of the olive oil out? Seems like something that even a tiny bit left in might not be a good thing at all to have in your loop.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Does having rigid tubing mean that I don't have to drain and maintain my system as frequently as soft tubing? Seeing as plastisizer is all but non existent in acrylic tubing, I just want to be clear on the other added benefits (if any), aside from crystal clear tubes and not having plastisizer.. Thanks.


Basically it is the plasticizer free and the sweet looks (super clear and the bends) for using it.

You still need to maintain your loops as normal but since plasticizer isn't present it removes that as a concern. If you use pastel for example then it can probably go for longer without draining.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> That reminds me. I've been meaning to ask about something.
> 
> Primochill, in their acrylic tubing how-to videos, recommends that if you have any trouble fitting the silicon tube to use a little olive oil on it. I've little doubt it would help with the inserting & bending, but how do you clean it afterward and know that you have gotten all of the olive oil out? Seems like something that even a tiny bit left in might not be a good thing at all to have in your loop.


This is why i dont recommend it. There is no need for olive oil at all,just get the right sized silicone.


----------



## 4WDBenio

The only application for Olive Oil is for food only.


----------



## DaaQ

If the chord don't fit ......*stretch* that bi**h!! ...it'll fit eventually.


----------



## DaaQ

Same goes for primochill's stuff. Give it a good stretch and clean out the inner edge of the acrylic tube as well. Deburr


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> That reminds me. I've been meaning to ask about something.
> 
> Primochill, in their acrylic tubing how-to videos, recommends that if you have any trouble fitting the silicon tube to use a little olive oil on it. I've little doubt it would help with the inserting & bending, but how do you clean it afterward and know that you have gotten all of the olive oil out? Seems like something that even a tiny bit left in might not be a good thing at all to have in your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> This is why i dont recommend it. There is no need for olive oil at all,just get the right sized silicone.
Click to expand...

The manufacturing process is not the best and the ID of the tube varies. So you can have the correct silicon insert size and it will not fit. I've had it where it is fine in one end of the tube and not the other. i've also had it with their tube that the insert could not be removed after a bend because of this same issue.

The olive oil does help with both these cases. As far as getting it out, some dish soap works well as it is made to break through oils and grease. If there was a little oil left in the loop, it probably wouldn't be the end of the world. Since oil is less dense than the fluid, it will end up floating on top of the res. Your temps may go up a degree or so while it was in the loop, but again it should correct itself and float to the top of the res.

Mayhem is working on a product (Illusion) that basically is just this. It is an oil that sits on top of the fluid in the res. It creates a pretty cool two color look for the water in your res and the oil itself doesn't really go into the loop.

Mayhems Illusion


----------



## lowfat

Instead of olive oil just later a tiny bit of soap on the bending cord. Also make sure the bending cord and tube are free of debris.


----------



## CapnCrunch10

I used olive oil to make some bends and putting dish soap on one end and running hot water under the sink washed it out easily.


----------



## seross69

To me the best thing to use if you need some lubrication is Silicone Lubricant. Like here

All you need is about 1/4 drop and it will slide and slide and will not affect anything.... we use this for lots of applications at work...

to use this if i need something is my plan..


----------



## zmegati

Guys if someone needs a NITRILE RUBBER see a little man has different dimensions:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321196383913?var=510153545313&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

This has an acrylic tube:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370892488720

When I put acrylic tube EK-HD Tube 10/12mm in EK-HD Adapter 10/12mm you must push the acrylic tube a little stronger to pass through both O ring and then it happened the edge of the acrylic tube damaging O ring

Then I took out all the O ring and all of them drowned in olive oil and then returned back, after that tube are entered like greased









I hope I helped some.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zmegati*
> 
> Guys if someone needs a NITRILE RUBBER see a little man has different dimensions:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/321196383913?var=510153545313&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> This has an acrylic tube:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370892488720
> 
> When I put acrylic tube EK-HD Tube 10/12mm in EK-HD Adapter 10/12mm you must push the acrylic tube a little stronger to pass through both O ring and then it happened the edge of the acrylic tube damaging O ring
> 
> Then I took out all the O ring and all of them drowned in olive oil and then returned back, after that tube are entered like greased
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope I helped some.


Yes that is what the silicone lubricant is used for, they use the silicone on O-ring and other parts in Aquariums. If it won't kill a fish I don't think it will hurt the cooling loop.. just get a little on the tip of your finger and rub around the o-rings and then it is lubricated and will not dry out....


----------



## JohnnyEars

Be aware that lubricating the o rings will lessen the grip effect on the pipe, just make a small bevel on the pipe end.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Be aware that lubricating the o rings will lessen the grip effect on the pipe, just make a small bevel on the pipe end.


this could be true but it should also seal .. I am just going to have to set up a loop on the table and run it and see what happens. wiggle things around and see what happens..


----------



## strykerr1

I'm thinking about doing this when I get my water block for my lightning and I have a question that may seem self explanatory but I have to ask.

I am a tinkering kind of guy so I'm always taking things out trying this doing that etc. With solid lines it's not as easy as tubes obviously to remove the gpu or the cpu block. My question is can you run a quick connect on these so I could theoretically remove a section so I could remove a gpu or cpu block?


----------



## DarthBaggins

I don't see why you couldn't run qd's to certain sections.


----------



## Willi

the problem would be moving the QDC's to release them. The tubing would have to have a flexibility that sometimes is impossible to provide with too many bends or shorter runs.
I have doubts about the usability of a QDC in an acrylic-only loop.


----------



## Solonowarion

Yeah you would need to throw some tube in there. Which doesnt look too bad if done right imo.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> the problem would be moving the QDC's to release them. The tubing would have to have a flexibility that sometimes is impossible to provide with too many bends or shorter runs.
> I have doubts about the usability of a QDC in an acrylic-only loop.


Yeah. I tried and the ones I have are the push release from koolance and the release was violent to the point that it cracked the acrylic on release.

Also qdc are bulky which ruins the sleek look of the acrylic for me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Yeah you would need to throw some tube in there. Which doesnt look too bad if done right imo.


Maybe I haven't seen it done right but I am going to disagree with you on this one


----------



## Sunreeper

Singularity did it in one of his case labs builds he did it so you didn't even know there was any regular tubing


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Singularity did it in one of his case labs builds he did it so you didn't even know there was any regular tubing


well that guy is a master of the craft







i think he could make anything look good.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Singularity did it in one of his case labs builds he did it so you didn't even know there was any regular tubing


I will have to try to find it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well that guy is a master of the craft
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think he could make anything look good.


Yes...yes he is


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I will have to try to find it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes...yes he is


http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=4591X91-FUM#t=1042

He used soft tubing on the back of the case. Still no ODC fittings there either. Honestly, he easily could have had acrylic back there, but he doesn't seem like he was willing to bend at all.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I can see a great value but limited use to a QD in an acrylic system.

1. Drain - Putting a QD on a Tee screwed into a Pump, Res or bottom rad

Option A - Pump - G1/4 -Tee

Off the "run" side of the Tee ya have ya Acrylic to system..... off the tee ya have a male QD

Option B - Reservoir - Spare G1/4 connection-QD

Off the "run" side of the Tee ya have ya Acrylic to system..... off the tee ya have ya have a male QD

Option C - Rad - G1/4 -Tee

Off one of the spare Rad ports (assumes bottom of case install)..... can even run sticking thru case rear or from bottom facing port off ...or use several rotating 90's to make pivoting one

2. Fill - Same as 1C but w\ top rad.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=4591X91-FUM#t=1042
> 
> He used soft tubing on the back of the case. Still no ODC fittings there either. Honestly, he easily could have had acrylic back there, but he doesn't seem like he was willing to bend at all.


Yeah, those aren't really visible as you don't look in the back of the case as much...mixing and matching where everything is visible is what I think would not look good.

And yes, it doesn't look like he wanted to get into the bending and probably could route the back with some bends.


----------



## szeged

in his cytotoxic build he gave a quick example of acrylic bending and said he wanted to try it in future builds









hopefully he gets around to it.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Singularity did it in one of his case labs builds he did it so you didn't even know there was any regular tubing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> well that guy is a master of the craft
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think he could make anything look good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yes...yes he is


I really think that is debatable. If your idea of a good build is it just has to look good then its not hard to just assemble lots of expensive parts like lego. With thousands of dollars of fittings lying around you can just try what fits.

If you appreciate a build with good airflow design, real hands on crafting of parts and lots of planning then there are lots better.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I really think that is debatable. If your idea of a good build is it just has to look good then its not hard to just assemble lots of expensive parts like lego. With thousands of dollars of fittings lying around you can just try what fits.
> 
> If you appreciate a build with good airflow design, real hands on crafting of parts and lots of planning then there are lots better.


have you seen some of his more recent builds where he does extensive modding/paint?


----------



## strykerr1

thanks for the input on the QD i guess i wont be able to do this because the way i had planned to run them makes it impossible to have a longer run of tubing and i would hate to crack it trying to take it apart lol!


----------



## Gardnerphotos

First attempts at acrylic bending:


----------



## JohnnyEars

Those short double bends are probably some of the most difficult - and I'm liking the little pipe rests you've used


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Those short double bends are probably some of the most difficult - and I'm liking the little pipe rests you've used


I been thinking about how I might fabricate same.... was thinking maybe 3/4" x 2mm thick aluminum bar stock w/ angle base plate and set screw.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> Those short double bends are probably some of the most difficult - and I'm liking the little pipe rests you've used


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I been thinking about how I might fabricate same.... was thinking maybe 3/4" x 2mm thick aluminum bar stock w/ angle base plate and set screw.


Thanks, yeh that was a PITA, took 3 attempts







I laser cut my stands and will just use some double sided sticky tape to secure them in place


----------



## Odachi

They look nice and you gave me an idea on how to make some for my build. I have some long horizontal and vertical acrylic runs that need some support. I have a piece of acrylic sheet I could cut using a drill (with a bit equal to the OD of the pipe) and a saw.


----------



## DreadyDK

So im planning on doing acrylic tubing for my next build, i just have a hard time figuring out what fittings/tubes to go with. i''ve read and read......

EK-HD, Bitspower or primochill ? What is the best and most safe of the products, in terms of leak. Easyest to work with ect.

Any thoughts


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Gardner that looks great! Those double 90s will make a man craazy!


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadyDK*
> 
> So im planning on doing acrylic tubing for my next build, i just have a hard time figuring out what fittings/tubes to go with. i''ve read and read......
> 
> EK-HD, Bitspower or primochill ? What is the best and most safe of the products, in terms of leak. Easyest to work with ect.
> 
> Any thoughts


I am using the primochill fittings. They are really snug. They are the biggest ID. I ordered tubing from mcmaster.com though to save some money and get mass quantity of tubing for practice


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadyDK*
> 
> So im planning on doing acrylic tubing for my next build, i just have a hard time figuring out what fittings/tubes to go with. i''ve read and read......
> 
> EK-HD, Bitspower or primochill ? What is the best and most safe of the products, in terms of leak. Easyest to work with ect.
> 
> Any thoughts


EK and Bitspower are similar style (push fitting) and the Primochill are Compression. I haven't used the EK, but the Bitspower are quite secure. The Primochill you are more likely to break something else or the tube before slipping it out of the fitting. Either way you cannot go wrong as far as secure tube is concerned.

The push fittings do require a more even end than the compressions. Since the tube has to go through a series of o-rings on the push fittings you want (a) a smooth end to not tear the o-rings and (b) an even end so that the tube goes evenly into the fitting and there is a complete seal on the o-rings. The compressions sit in the fitting and the compression part squeezes the o-ring into the fitting to seal it. Because of this, the end doesn't need to be as smooth nor as even because it doesn't have to be forced through o-rings and it would be pretty hard to make it so uneven that the o-ring is touching part of an uneven tube.

So, I'd say Primochill are easier to work with as far as fitting the tube. The are harder to fasten to your blocks tho. This is, imo, the biggest problem with the primochill fittings is that there is no grip on the actual fitting, just the compression sleeve. It can be difficult/painful to secure the fitting by holding onto threads, so you can turn it with the sleeve on and hope that when you unscrew the sleeve the fitting doesn't come back out too. Because of this, the Bitspower style are easier to fit with your blocks.


----------



## jleslie246

You can put a wrench on the primo hill ghost fittings.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadyDK*
> 
> So im planning on doing acrylic tubing for my next build, i just have a hard time figuring out what fittings/tubes to go with. i''ve read and read......
> 
> EK-HD, Bitspower or primochill ? What is the best and most safe of the products, in terms of leak. Easyest to work with ect.
> 
> Any thoughts


I really appreciate primochill's attempt (and success) to commercialize acrylic tube for builds, but in all honesty their compression fittings are hideous looking. They're far too large and completely contradict the nice smooth lines of acrylic tubing, just not sleek at all. Go with Bitspower C47 fittings and E22 or EK 12mm/10mm tube. The C47's are very snug and very sleek looking.

My


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I really appreciate primochill's attempt (and success) to commercialize acrylic tube for builds, but in all honesty their compression fittings are hideous looking. They're far too large and completely contradict the nice smooth lines of acrylic tubing, just not sleek at all. Go with Bitspower c47's, they're very snug and very sleek looking.
> 
> My


Their new version is a bit more sleek









But yeah, I do wish they were a little less bulky...pretty hard with the compression style however. I think they look find on blocks/rads, but look a little funky on the angle fittings....so depending on how you do your routes (fittings vs bends), I think it looks better/worse, lol


----------



## robert1978

thanks for the guild. I am planning on using Primochill tubing in my build. Thanks for the guide.


----------



## nickcnse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I am using the primochill fittings. They are really snug. They are the biggest ID. I ordered tubing from mcmaster.com though to save some money and get mass quantity of tubing for practice


Which tubing on the mcmaster.com website was it exactly? Thanks in advance!

This is what looked the closest to me, but I'm not 100% sure.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-hollow-tubing/=ozhiug


----------



## WiSK

I've heard that Monsoon is also bringing out some fittings for acrylic tubing. No pictures yet, but hopefully these will bring a new look.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickcnse*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I am using the primochill fittings. They are really snug. They are the biggest ID. I ordered tubing from mcmaster.com though to save some money and get mass quantity of tubing for practice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which tubing on the mcmaster.com website was it exactly? Thanks in advance!
> 
> This is what looked the closest to me, but I'm not 100% sure.
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-hollow-tubing/=ozhiug
Click to expand...

The P/N for acrylic tube is: 8532K13 Dimensional tolerance is: +/- .020"

It comes in 6' lengths ($3.69 per length) and works fine with the Primochill fittings.

Also available is PETG tubing which is more easily bendable, but more expensive at $6.84 per 6' length . . . . P/N: 9245K21 Dimensional tolerance is better at : +/- .010"

It also works fine with the Primochill fittings.

Darlene

As far as comparing the original Primochill fittings to the new ones, (I bought a 4 pack of each for comparison) . . . . . . It's no contest, the new ones look soooooooo much better when you put them side by side you'd never want to use an older one.

Still not nearly as sleek as the C47's, but a huge improvement from the originals and overall, pretty damn decent.

Darlene


----------



## DreadyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I really appreciate primochill's attempt (and success) to commercialize acrylic tube for builds, but in all honesty their compression fittings are hideous looking. They're far too large and completely contradict the nice smooth lines of acrylic tubing, just not sleek at all. Go with Bitspower C47 fittings and E22 or EK 12mm/10mm tube. The C47's are very snug and very sleek looking.
> 
> My


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I am using the primochill fittings. They are really snug. They are the biggest ID. I ordered tubing from mcmaster.com though to save some money and get mass quantity of tubing for practice


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> EK and Bitspower are similar style (push fitting) and the Primochill are Compression. I haven't used the EK, but the Bitspower are quite secure. The Primochill you are more likely to break something else or the tube before slipping it out of the fitting. Either way you cannot go wrong as far as secure tube is concerned.
> 
> The push fittings do require a more even end than the compressions. Since the tube has to go through a series of o-rings on the push fittings you want (a) a smooth end to not tear the o-rings and (b) an even end so that the tube goes evenly into the fitting and there is a complete seal on the o-rings. The compressions sit in the fitting and the compression part squeezes the o-ring into the fitting to seal it. Because of this, the end doesn't need to be as smooth nor as even because it doesn't have to be forced through o-rings and it would be pretty hard to make it so uneven that the o-ring is touching part of an uneven tube.
> 
> So, I'd say Primochill are easier to work with as far as fitting the tube. The are harder to fasten to your blocks tho. This is, imo, the biggest problem with the primochill fittings is that there is no grip on the actual fitting, just the compression sleeve. It can be difficult/painful to secure the fitting by holding onto threads, so you can turn it with the sleeve on and hope that when you unscrew the sleeve the fitting doesn't come back out too. Because of this, the Bitspower style are easier to fit with your blocks.


Thanks alot for all the reply's, what i get out of all the things u guys are saying is :

1 : All types are more or less, the same when it comes to chance of leak's.

2 : EK and Bitspower is more work when it comes to preparation of the tube but much easyer to install in your system.

3 : With Primochill there is not much preparation of the tube, but a lot harder to install

That sums it all up in a short list ?


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> I really appreciate primochill's attempt (and success) to commercialize acrylic tube for builds, but in all honesty their compression fittings are hideous looking. They're far too large and completely contradict the nice smooth lines of acrylic tubing, just not sleek at all. Go with Bitspower C47 fittings and E22 or EK 12mm/10mm tube. The C47's are very snug and very sleek looking.
> 
> My


Yeah, I'm thinking about doing full metal Bitspower loop or going with EK 16mm fittings...
Can't stop looking at this rig by Wasupwitdat1


----------



## lowfat

Primchill tubing is way easier to install. It is just the fittings that are a bit of a pain. I honestly wouldn't use anything besides Primochill. The extra mm or two of play you get makes things quite a bit easier.

Loops like the one pictured above do not look good to me at all. They are needlessly expensive and I don't find it aesthetically pleasing.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Primchill tubing is way easier to install. It is just the fittings that are a bit of a pain. I honestly wouldn't use anything besides Primochill. The extra mm or two of play you get makes things quite a bit easier.
> 
> Loops like the one pictured above do not look good to me at all. They are needlessly expensive and I don't find it aesthetically pleasing.


I hear that. I'm currently using the Primochill fittings and acrylic tube, but I'm a little worried about the fittings being aluminum... Not to mention, I've bought soooo many Bitspower fittings I almost have enough to do full metal already


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> I hear that. I'm currently using the Primochill fittings and acrylic tube, but *I'm a little worried about the fittings being aluminum*... Not to mention, I've bought soooo many Bitspower fittings I almost have enough to do full metal already


The aluminum is just the caps, and no aluminum ever comes in contact with the water in your loop. It's a non-issue.

edit:
Quote:


> *Although aluminum is used for the outside ring, no aluminum comes in direct contact with the fluid.
> http://www.primochill.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=334


Well, just got 16 of the new revolver diamond knurled fittings in black. LUV how they look.









I've had 8x2' of the Primochill tubing for a couple weeks now, along with a couple rads & 15 fans & res & pump & psu... Still waiting on my pre-ordered case and haven't settled on a mobo / cpu / ram yet, though I have eyeballing the new RIVE Black Edition whenever it gets released, so I'm still several weeks away from putting it together. Been looking forward to bending these tubes.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The aluminum is just the caps, and no aluminum ever comes in contact with the water in your loop. It's a non-issue.
> 
> edit:


Nope! Those fittings are full Aluminum and the water passes through the main body of the fitting. Granted it's polished, over time it could be a problem... Well, that's if you never check your loop or do maintenance.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Nope! Those fittings are full Aluminum and the water passes through the main body of the fitting. Granted it's polished, over time it could be a problem... Well, that's if you never check your loop or do maintenance.


are you 100% sure about this?? because trust me the I do not want the problems this will bring!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Nope! Those fittings are full Aluminum and the water passes through the main body of the fitting. Granted it's polished, over time it could be a problem... Well, that's if you never check your loop or do maintenance.


Sorry, but you are mistaken. I even linked to/quoted from Primochill's site. What part of this did you not understand?
Quote:


> **Although aluminum is used for the outside ring, no aluminum comes in direct contact with the fluid.*
> http://www.primochill.com/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=334


----------



## OneFast3

Is there a reason I see more talk about McMaster-Carr instead of US Plastics for the 1/2" for the Primochill ? Saw some talk about the US Plastics at the beginning of thread but not much after.

US Plastics http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=44020&catid=440 is only $0.31 a foot.

Looking at all the specs seems like they are all about the same ? Has anyone worked with the different ones (US, McMaster, and Primochill) and noticed any difference ?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFast3*
> 
> Is there a reason I see more talk about McMaster-Carr instead of US Plastics for the 1/2" for the Primochill ? Saw some talk about the US Plastics at the beginning of thread but not much after.
> 
> US Plastics http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?sku=44020&catid=440 is only $0.31 a foot.
> 
> Looking at all the specs seems like they are all about the same ? Has anyone worked with the different ones (US, McMaster, and Primochill) and noticed any difference ?


I have both but my US plastics is 1/2 ID 5/8 OD.. all of this is going to me actually made by one or 2 OEM's they will not be a lot of difference!!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The P/N for acrylic tube is: 8532K13 Dimensional tolerance is: +/- .020"
> 
> It comes in 6' lengths ($3.69 per length) and works fine with the Primochill fittings.
> 
> Also available is PETG tubing which is more easily bendable, but more expensive at $6.84 per 6' length . . . . P/N: 9245K21 Dimensional tolerance is better at : +/- .010"
> 
> It also works fine with the Primochill fittings.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> As far as comparing the original Primochill fittings to the new ones, (I bought a 4 pack of each for comparison) . . . . . . It's no contest, the new ones look soooooooo much better when you put them side by side you'd never want to use an older one.
> 
> Still not nearly as sleek as the C47's, but a huge improvement from the originals and overall, pretty damn decent.
> 
> Darlene


I can't believe it, but I am actually considering buying these to swap out my old fittings before I fill the loop........decisions decisions......

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Primchill tubing is way easier to install. It is just the fittings that are a bit of a pain. I honestly wouldn't use anything besides Primochill. The extra mm or two of play you get makes things quite a bit easier.
> 
> Loops like the one pictured above do not look good to me at all. They are needlessly expensive and I don't find it aesthetically pleasing.


Agree 100%


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The P/N for acrylic tube is: 8532K13 Dimensional tolerance is: +/- .020"
> 
> It comes in 6' lengths ($3.69 per length) and works fine with the Primochill fittings.
> 
> Also available is PETG tubing which is more easily bendable, but more expensive at $6.84 per 6' length . . . . P/N: 9245K21 Dimensional tolerance is better at : +/- .010"
> 
> It also works fine with the Primochill fittings.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> As far as comparing the original Primochill fittings to the new ones, (I bought a 4 pack of each for comparison) . . . . . . It's no contest, the new ones look soooooooo much better when you put them side by side you'd never want to use an older one.
> 
> Still not nearly as sleek as the C47's, but a huge improvement from the originals and overall, pretty damn decent.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> *I can't believe it, but I am actually considering buying these to swap out my old fittings before I fill the loop........decisions decisions......*
Click to expand...

If you're already using the original Primochill fittings, all you need to do is swap out the caps.

All the caps, old and new, either style, are interchangeable.

Darlene


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> If you're already using the original Primochill fittings, all you need to do is swap out the caps.
> 
> All the caps, old and new, either style, are interchangeable.
> 
> Darlene


I figured that was the case, thanks for confirming









Now if I could only buy the caps as 'replacements' without the fittings part......


----------



## DreadyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Their new version is a bit more sleek
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, I do wish they were a little less bulky...pretty hard with the compression style however. I think they look find on blocks/rads, but look a little funky on the angle fittings....so depending on how you do your routes (fittings vs bends), I think it looks better/worse, lol


Absolutely correct, i'we bin looking on lots of build's and if u use any kind af 45 or 90 degree adapters the primochill's are to big. So im going with the C47 and E22 tube as im going to use 90 degree angles some places. Thanks for the heads up mr...


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sorry, but you are mistaken. I even linked to/quoted from Primochill's site. What part of this did you not understand?


Trust me, I saw it. Primochill has a video on Youtube with Brian talking about the ghost fittings being all Aluminum. Youtube is blocked at work but I'll be glad to find it for you later. Now with the new ghost fittings they're making, this might have changed. So that could be where we're not seeing eye to eye. I'll hack a ghost fitting in half for you and science!


----------



## Jakusonfire

That's proper crazy talk right there. What company would go to the trouble to make enthusiast stuff like rigid tubing fittings and then make the wetted parts of aluminium ... when all other fittings are made from brass. Common sense should apply here because some people might believe it if repeated.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJxAd94t_j0

At 5.50 he mentions it in the original release video before they were even available.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Like I said, I'll cut one up and let you know if I've lost the farm. I could be thinking of something else or just losing my mind...

I mean no harm to Primochill at all!!! I like their products and I can't find anything about those fittings being all Alum. So as of right now, I'm completely wrong.








but time and a hacksaw will confirm it for me


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That's proper crazy talk right there. What company would go to the trouble to make enthusiast stuff like rigid tubing fittings and then make the wetted parts of aluminium ... when all other fittings are made from brass. Common sense should apply here because some people might believe it if repeated.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xJxAd94t_j0
> 
> At 5.50 he mentions it in the original release video before they were even available.


Exactly. Thank you. Rep ;-)

Here's the link that will take you to 5m47s into that vid:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=xJxAd94t_j0#t=347

Brian Farrell (owner of Primochill) says:
Quote:


> "Again, this is all nickel-plated - nickel-plated brass here on the bottom, and then our aluminum knurled O-rings here, er I'm sorry, compression rings. *There isn't an issue with any type of mixed metals with this because there's an O-ring that seals up against the inside of this aluminum so water never comes in contact with the aluminum so you don't really have any issues with any mixed metals with these."*


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Exactly. Thank you. Rep ;-)
> 
> Here's the link that will take you to 5m47s into that vid:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=xJxAd94t_j0#t=347
> 
> Brian Farrell (owner of Primochill) says:


I believe I'm wrong, but that doesn't mean I'm not gonna cut one up still!
Thanks for watching that and posting what he said! I couldn't remember it off the top of my head. Seeing what he said, I see how I've misinterpreted it!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> I believe I'm wrong, but that doesn't mean I'm not gonna cut one up still!
> Thanks for watching that and posting what he said! I couldn't remember it off the top of my head. Seeing what he said, I see how I've misinterpreted it!


Persistent to cut one up....I like it!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I figured that was the case, thanks for confirming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I could only buy the caps as 'replacements' without the fittings part......


man, that would be epic. i got my fittings and literally the next day the new ones were announced.....

story of my life...


----------



## robert1978

I have several boxes here waiting to into my new build and only the caps are aluminum. The body of the fitting is brass. You see the difference in the look and the feel of the two pieces. I do wish I waited till the new ones come out, they look so muck better...


----------



## CapnCrunch10

I've been stalking this thread since it's infancy and I'm proud to say I'm getting close to completion with my build. Thanks for the help and tips guys!



Full build log here.


----------



## skupples

Beautiful! I'll do acrylic some day when i'm confident I won't be tearing down my build's and moving them around every few weeks! Until then industrial grade norprene for me!(up your nose with a plastic free rubber hose!)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> I've been stalking this thread since it's infancy and I'm proud to say I'm getting close to completion with my build. Thanks for the help and tips guys!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Full build log here.


I think it would look 11ty better if you could get rid of that white tube going at the 45 degree angle. Otherwise the system looks awesome.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it would look 11ty better if you could get rid of that white tube going at the 45 degree angle. Otherwise the system looks awesome.


Looks like he has a dual loop goin, white fluid in the GPU loop. I agree a slightly different routing would prly look better tho since it is the only length of tube that is not straight or at a right angle. Only one that moves in all 3 axes as well....aside from that, it looks great


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think it would look 11ty better if you could get rid of that white tube going at the 45 degree angle. Otherwise the system looks awesome.


I thought about it, but it would require too many bends/joints to join up properly. Plus, I think it creates a little bit of nice contrast with the different coolant colors. Thanks for the compliment though.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

any alternatives to a heat gun for heating the tube? Tried a hair dryer but just wasn't hot enough, could a hob or oven work?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> any alternatives to a heat gun for heating the tube? Tried a hair dryer but just wasn't hot enough, could a hob or oven work?


Why wouldn't you just get a heat gun? An oven would give you zero control over the situation.


----------



## wholeeo

Having a hard time deciding between black tubing or clear. Will def be doing acrylic next time I redo my loop.


----------



## JohnnyEars

I've heard of folks using boiling water to soften acrylic pipe, but heat guns are about the same price as kettles


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Why wouldn't you just get a heat gun? An oven would give you zero control over the situation.


becasue I am an impatient B*stard. I have one at school but not here at home


----------



## Gardnerphotos

I have seen people use an electric hob to bend sheet acrylic, could it work for pipe?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> becasue I am an impatient B*stard. I have one at school but not here at home


A heat gun is like $20. I can't suggest using anything else.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> any alternatives to a heat gun for heating the tube? Tried a hair dryer but just wasn't hot enough, could a hob or oven work?
> 
> 
> 
> Why wouldn't you just get a heat gun? An oven would give you zero control over the situation.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> becasue I am an impatient B*stard. I have one at school but not here at home
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A heat gun is like $20. I can't suggest using anything else.
Click to expand...

All of this.

Ovens can be used to stress relive the tube after bending but its not really required and you certainly wouldnt use one for the bending.

Cheap heatguns last ages and are dirt cheap,.dont consider this as viable without one.


----------



## jleslie246

Heat gun is $7.88 at harbor freight


----------



## szeged

harbor freight

itll probably end up catching the acrylic and your house on fire.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Why wouldn't you just get a heat gun? An oven would give you zero control over the situation.


This.....you should be able to get one with at least 2 temp settings for <$30 at any hardware store...............furthermore, it is an excellent thing to have for PC modding in general...can't tell you how many times i've used mine. Examples, acrylic tube bending, acrylic sheet bending, heat shrink, removing labels/stickers, the list goes on......


----------



## skupples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> any alternatives to a heat gun for heating the tube? Tried a hair dryer but just wasn't hot enough, could a hob or oven work?


You should be able to pick up a 1500W+ heatgun from the paint section @ Homedepot*** for 30-40$ Less if you go lower wattage w/ only one setting... Just make sure you look... They will likely only have a ~70$ unit in the power tools section, & not tell you that a cheaper one exists elsewhere in the store.


----------



## kpoeticg

I got my Wagner from Home Depot. It has like 12 Temps and a Cool Off Function. I love it, just wish i could find a good bottleneck concentrator that would definitely fit it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I was thee buying a toolboc last week and looked....they had one.

Amazon has lotsa choices ... I'd avoid the $12 one tho









http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3AHeat%20Guns


----------



## kpoeticg

Yeah, i have the HT3500. I have the accessories package in my Amazon shopping cart i've been working on for the past week or so. The gun itself comes with 2 out of the 3 tips in the package. Only one you don't get with the gun is the concentrator. I'm pretty sure it's not a Bottleneck Concentrator though. I have a Hot Air Rework Station in my cart too for Soldering anyway.

Lutro always has a heatgun for around $20 USD on his site. He makes sure it's a model that comes with a Bottleneck Concentrator so you can use it for heatshrink. Never a bad place to get supplies......


----------



## LaBestiaHumana

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> harbor freight
> 
> itll probably end up catching the acrylic and your house on fire.


I wouldn't doubt it.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

its all good I managed to get away with pieces that I had already bent at school, will then replace them with newly bent pieces to my liking when I go back to school next week


----------



## wholeeo

Any issues with this tubing?

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/riclactu36in.html


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Any issues with this tubing?
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/riclactu36in.html


Couldnt think of one reason there would be. Is it just me or do they not show dimensions. I know they say the fittings they fit but still


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Couldnt think of one reason there would be. Is it just me or do they not show dimensions. I know they say the fittings they fit but still


Yeah I saw that too. A little odd


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Any issues with this tubing?
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/riclactu36in.html
> 
> 
> 
> Couldnt think of one reason there would be. Is it just me or do they not show dimensions. I know they say the fittings they fit but still
Click to expand...

I guess they figure that by the time some one is buying acrylic tube, they have learned enough to know what's what.

Since it fits Bp fittings, it's 12mm od, and from looking at the pic, it's clear that it's 10mm id, as opposed to possibly being 8mm.

Either way, the other brands of metric push fittings should work as well.

Except for having chopped it into non-metric lengths, there's no mystery that I see.

If it is by chance E22 tubing, it would be to their advantage to mention it, as it has a good rep and would be a selling point over something "no-name".

If it is just no-name, then it's sure priced pretty high.

Darlene


----------



## Solonowarion

Its clearly 12mm od 10mm id but regardless. The dimensions should be there. There no excuse not to be specific. I see what your saying though.

Decided to throw some vanilla sand sata sleeve on my acrylic. Will post some pics when I get off work.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I guess they figure that by the time some one is buying acrylic tube, they have learned enough to know what's what.
> 
> Since it fits Bp fittings, it's 12mm od, and from looking at the pic, it's clear that it's 10mm id, as opposed to possibly being 8mm.
> 
> Either way, the other brands of metric push fittings should work as well.
> 
> Except for having chopped it into non-metric lengths, there's no mystery that I see.
> 
> If it is by chance E22 tubing, it would be to their advantage to mention it, as it has a good rep and would be a selling point over something "no-name".
> 
> If it is just no-name, then it's sure priced pretty high.
> 
> Darlene


Engineering taught me not to trust pics and assuming is dangerous









They should have the dimensions in there


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Decided to throw some vanilla sand sata sleeve on my acrylic. Will post some pics when I get off work.


Curious to see how you managed this without it looking like crap.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Engineering taught me not to trust pics and assuming is dangerous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They should have the dimensions in there


Regardless of the dimensions, it shouldn't be anything that you can't put your engineering skills to use to make it work regardless.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Curious to see how you managed this without it looking like crap.


I cant say it looks perfect but I used some black sata shrink on the ends. I have 10 mm od not sure what you used.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I cant say it looks perfect but I used some black sata shrink on the ends. I have 10 mm od not sure what you used.


Like this? I didn't much like the look of it.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_3973-2-1.jpg.html


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Like this? I didn't much like the look of it.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_3973-2-1.jpg.html


I just snugged it up to the base of the acrylic. Still held the sleeve there. If I did it again I would put a thin piece of electrical tape over the sleeve at the ends to secure it then put the shrink on.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Like this? I didn't much like the look of it.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/_MG_3973-2-1.jpg.html


I don't really like it much either...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

On the pics above ..... I think a smaller sleeve .... stretched to provide more opening area would look better .....and maybe the premium glossy HS

As for the 10mm and 12mm tubing..... The primochill is generally labeled 1/2" (dunno actually how accurate that is) but that's 12.7 mm and the C47 doesn't fit.....so when it's not identified, I'm thinking what if someone figures 1/2" = 12mm (instead of 12.7)


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I don't really like it much either...


I was going to drill out the opening on the Primochill compresion ring slightly large to hold the sleeve inside the ring. However after filling my loop w/ my coolant I thought it looked good enough not to use sleeving.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> On the pics above ..... I think a smaller sleeve .... stretched to provide more opening area would look better .....and maybe the premium glossy HS
> 
> As for the 10mm and 12mm tubing..... *The primochill is generally labeled 1/2" (dunno actually how accurate that is)* but that's 12.7 mm and the C47 doesn't fit.....so when it's not identified, I'm thinking what if someone figures 1/2" = 12mm (instead of 12.7)


1/2" O.D. for the Primochill is pretty accurate.


----------



## robert1978

primochill has some nice tubing too. They have also just came out with some new fittings that are freakin alsome.


----------



## Arm3nian

Any recommendations for a cheap heatgun suitable for this job?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Any recommendations for a cheap heatgun suitable for this job?


There is cheaper/better ones but this one works awesome for me. Lutro0 reccomended it to me.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H4I67I


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Any recommendations for a cheap heatgun suitable for this job?


Check out Harbor Freight Tools. They usually have a ton of electric tools on sale. I got their 1500 watt heat gun for $8 bucks. It works just fine, heats up in a matter of seconds, and it's cheap enough that if it breaks you won't feel too bad. The expiration date in this coupon is old, but I got mine a month ago and only paid $7.99.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

I'm really stuck between the normal hose and acrylic tubing... The acrylic clouds up as some hoses do? How easy is the overall system maintenance? I mean, if I want lift the cpu block to clean something, the acrylic would bend plenty? Or every time I want do that I would have to drain the entire loop and disassemble everything?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> I'm really stuck between the normal hose and acrylic tubing... The acrylic clouds up as some hoses do? How easy is the overall system maintenance? I mean, if I want lift the cpu block to clean something, the acrylic would bend plenty? Or every time I want do that I would have to drain the entire loop and disassemble everything?


I polished my ek block last weekend.

Drained enough water with a valve to unscrew the 2 into the cpu and turn them away. They dont bend. (Extremely small amount) That took about 3 minutes.

Well i polished my gpu block too and changed the coolant and sleeved my acrylic.

Fully draining my system takes about 5 minutes and then a couple more to unscrew all my tubes. I keep the tube in the fittings when assembling or disassembling.

Ive taken all the pipes out about 3 times in 6 months. I dont mind at all.

Good excuse to see whats going on and check things out. Especially because I like to change things up often.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I polished my ek block last weekend.
> 
> Drained enough water with a valve to unscrew the 2 into the cpu and turn them away. They dont bend. (Extremely small amount) That took about 3 minutes.
> 
> Well i polished my gpu block too and changed the coolant and sleeved my acrylic.
> 
> Fully draining my system takes about 5 minutes and then a couple more to unscrew all my tubes. *I keep the tube in the fittings when assembling or disassembling.*
> 
> Ive taken all the pipes out about 3 times in 6 months. I dont mind at all.
> 
> Good excuse to see whats going on and check things out. Especially because I like to change things up often.


Thank you for the fast feedback. That in bold I didn't thought so far... Do you know if the acrylic can cloud as the ordinary tubing? Sorry for the low knowledge... I'm really thinking going for acrylic, I think it makes the system very clean and the dyes "glows" much more than in normal tube.


----------



## lowfat

Acrylic will not cloud since there are no plasticizers. That is pretty much the reason why I am moving to it for all my machines.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Acrylic will not cloud since there are no plasticizers. That is pretty much the reason why I am moving to it for all my machines.


I see... Is there any issue if I use acrylic and hose in the same system? I thinking in using the acrylic at the visible section and the hose at the hidden one.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> Thank you for the fast feedback. That in bold I didn't thought so far... What do you mean with "sleeve the acrylic"? Do you know if the acrylic can cloud as the ordinary tubing? Sorry for the low knowledge... I'm really thinking going for acrylic, I think it makes the system very clean and the dyes "glows" much more than in normal tube.


Hey man we all have to start somewhere. Ill post pics of the sleeving when I am off work. Lowfat showed an example a page or two back.

Acrylic wont cloud as long as you have a clean system as far as I know. It does seem to almost glow. So clear and takes light very well.

What I meant about keeping the tube in the fittings is I dont screw in the fittings then put the tube in. For push fittings it can be very hard and its better to put the fitting on the tube then screw it in. You are able tp do this because even when the fitting is locked on the tube the fitting can stil spin freely. You also have to do this because acrylic doesnt bend so you cant put it in when the fittings are in the blocks.

you dont always have to do this. It depends on the fitting and runs.

As for acrylic and tube go for it. Jist go for a clean noprene tube.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> I see... Is there any issue if I use acrylic and hose in the same system? I thinking in using the acrylic at the visible section and the hose at the hidden one.


Won't be an issue


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Hmmmm... And what should be the best size of the acrylic? 10ID/12OD or 12ID/16OD? Which brand? EK or E22?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> Hmmmm... And what should be the best size of the acrylic? 10ID/12OD or 12ID/16OD? Which brand? EK or E22?


That question is a matter of preference. There is also PrimoChill which is 1/2"OD 3/8" ID.

Which fittings do you like?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> Hmmmm... And what should be the best size of the acrylic? 10ID/12OD or 12ID/16OD? Which brand? EK or E22?


E22 tube has a consistent wall thickness so that is my recommendation.

Primochill does not have a consistent wall thickness,this results in sticking former rod...personally i dont recommend this.

EK...I have not tried this yet but I will do soon and will post my findings.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> E22 tube has a consistent wall thickness so that is my recommendation.
> 
> Primochill does not have a consistent wall thickness,this results in sticking former rod...personally i dont recommend this.
> 
> EK...I have not tried this yet but I will do soon and will post my findings.


This.

Also I have several packages of the EK tube, it's virtually identical to the E22 product.


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> This.
> 
> Also I have several packages of the EK tube, it's virtually identical to the E22 product.


James, how much tubing does it usually take for you to complete your builds?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> James, how much tubing does it usually take for you to complete your builds?


A couple of meters, taking into account mistakes etc.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That question is a matter of preference. There is also PrimoChill which is 1/2"OD 3/8" ID.
> 
> Which fittings do you like?


I guess the Primochill is slightly more expensive. But what really annoys me is that they are restricted to Primochill fittings...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> E22 tube has a consistent wall thickness so that is my recommendation.
> 
> Primochill does not have a consistent wall thickness,this results in sticking former rod...personally i dont recommend this.
> 
> EK...I have not tried this yet but I will do soon and will post my findings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> This.
> 
> Also I have several packages of the EK tube, it's virtually identical to the E22 product.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> A couple of meters, taking into account mistakes etc.


I really apreciate the feedback. Is there any performance point to go for the thicker tube? Is there any bending ease improvement with the thickr or the smaller?


----------



## Solonowarion

I noticed about a 3 degree difference going from 12mm od 10mm id tube to 10mm od 8mm id acrylic.

Though im not even sure it was the tubinf that caused it.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I noticed about a 3 degree difference going from 12mm od 10mm id tube to 10mm od 8mm id acrylic.


So do you think it worths gonig to a 12/16mm by a $5 more per meter and $2 more per fitting? I'm sorry using this thread as a personal FAQ


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> So do you think it worths gonig to a 12/16mm by a $5 more per meter and $2 more per fitting? I'm sorry using this thread as a personal FAQ


There will be no difference in performance between the two. Buy whatever you find more aesthetically appealing. I would bet that the smaller tubing will be a tad easier to bend.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> There will be no difference in performance between the two. Buy whatever you find more aesthetically appealing. I would bet that the smaller tubing will be a tad easier to bend.


This.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

how long does it take for plasticiser to build up in a loop that contains 1m of normal tube and the rest acrylic tube? assuming it does build up when you mix them. I am asking because I have some normal tube that I need to use for my build due to it needing to flex, I have some primochill tube and have just ordered some EK ZMT tubing which DOESNT cause build up of plasticiser but I am going back to school for 3 weeks and the ZMT wont be here by then. So if I use normal tube for three weeks then switch to ZMT will I be fine for plasticiser?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> how long does it take for plasticiser to build up in a loop that contains 1m of normal tube and the rest acrylic tube? assuming it does build up when you mix them. I am asking because I have some normal tube that I need to use for my build due to it needing to flex, I have some primochill tube and have just ordered some EK ZMT tubing which DOESNT cause build up of plasticiser but I am going back to school for 3 weeks and the ZMT wont be here by then. So if I use normal tube for three weeks then switch to ZMT will I be fine for plasticiser?


3 weeks wil be fine. No worries.


----------



## Inviso

First Bends.




Check out my Build Log


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> how long does it take for plasticiser to build up in a loop that contains 1m of normal tube and the rest acrylic tube? assuming it does build up when you mix them. I am asking because I have some normal tube that I need to use for my build due to it needing to flex, I have some primochill tube and have just ordered some EK ZMT tubing which DOESNT cause build up of plasticiser but I am going back to school for 3 weeks and the ZMT wont be here by then. So if I use normal tube for three weeks then switch to ZMT will I be fine for plasticiser?
> 
> 
> 
> 3 weeks wil be fine. No worries.
Click to expand...

Yeah, 3 weeks is not a concern. Plasticizer is more of a several months thing


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Yeah, 3 weeks is not a concern. Plasticizer is more of a several months thing


Good


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Good


That is unless you get the suuuuuuper cheap Home Depot tubing, lol then it is days


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> That is unless you get the suuuuuuper cheap Home Depot tubing, lol then it is days


I got primochill so hopefully should be fine


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The P/N for acrylic tube is: 8532K13 Dimensional tolerance is: +/- .020"
> 
> It comes in 6' lengths ($3.69 per length) and works fine with the Primochill fittings.
> 
> Also available is PETG tubing which is more easily bendable, but more expensive at $6.84 per 6' length . . . . P/N: 9245K21 Dimensional tolerance is better at : +/- .010"
> 
> It also works fine with the Primochill fittings.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> As far as comparing the original Primochill fittings to the new ones, (I bought a 4 pack of each for comparison) . . . . . . It's no contest, the new ones look soooooooo much better when you put them side by side you'd never want to use an older one.
> 
> Still not nearly as sleek as the C47's, but a huge improvement from the originals and overall, pretty damn decent.
> 
> Darlene


This morning I went down to McMaster-Carr to pickup some of the PETG Tubing and let me tell you guys that this stuff is a lot easier to work with then the regular Primochill tubing, only downside is that the walls are actually thicker then those from Primochill, anyways thank you Darlene for finding this stuff +rep to you









btw here is a pic of the will call at McMaster-Carr, Jelly?


----------



## Inviso

I hate you. It takes at least a full week if I'm lucky for a package to get here from anywhere.


----------



## koniu777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> I hate you. It takes at least a full week if I'm lucky for a package to get here from anywhere.


lol yeah but you're like half way around the world hehe


----------



## Inviso

Well lets be honest... it is more like 2 weeks for a normal order.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> I hate you. It takes at least a full week if I'm lucky for a package to get here from anywhere.


I'm in Brazil and it takes over a month for anything to be delivered (after a nice tax from the customs). IF the stuff doesn't get "lost" in our stupid, useless mafia of a mail system. I'm really considering changing countries.


----------



## Inviso

Trust me, I completely understand the horrors of the postal system. APO mail goes to NY or Cali depending where in the world it is going. Once accepted into the APO system, there is no tracking of packages period.

My buddy bought parts for his first computer build beginning of sSeptember. He has to wait until the end of the week to even file a claim about the package not arriving. Its atrocious that the US government can't even track its mail.;


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koniu777*
> 
> lol yeah but you're like half way around the world hehe


hey hey, another chicago water cooler. nice. man, we need to get a chicago builders thread or something going on.

i live in Logan Square, right across from the big ass Regal Theatre......just so you know i guess lol.

on topic though, im about to start my rigid build next week, the question i wanted to ask is about the silicon insert that you get with the primochill tubes. i know ill have to use oil to get the insert to go through the tube good, but how do you guys clean the oil out of the tube afterward? any suggestions other than the oil? and olive oil is good for this right?

thanks gang, u guys are inspiring me to empty my wallet as fast as humanly possible and i love it.


----------



## JohnnyEars

If the insert is a bit tight, give it a bit of a stretch, and/or use dish soap


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

ah dish soap, great idea. thanks a lot. ill be sure to post up here when i get the build going.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> ah dish soap, great idea. thanks a lot. ill be sure to post up here when i get the build going.


dish soap works great. and it is of course really easy to clean out of the tube after you are done, lol


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Any idea which would be the 'best" acrylic tubing/fittings brand? We have Primochill (tube + fittings), E22 (tube), Bitspower (fittings, the C47) and EK (tube + fittings). What do you think and why did you chose it?


----------



## coolhandluke41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> I'm really stuck between the normal hose and acrylic tubing... The acrylic clouds up as some hoses do? How easy is the overall system maintenance? I mean, if I want lift the cpu block to clean something, the acrylic would bend plenty? Or every time I want do that I would have to drain the entire loop and disassemble everything?


since this is your first build I would advise you to go with normal tubing ,if you want something that won't plasticize ..there is Norprene
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10486/ex-tub-646/Tygon_A-60-G_Norprene_38_ID_58_OD_-_Industrial_Grade_Thermoplastic_Elastomer_Tubing.html?tl=g30c99s1615

this should be more enjoyable than making jigs ,cutting acrylic,bending with heat-gun,etc,..once you get this rig up end running then it should be easier


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> If the insert is a bit tight, give it a bit of a stretch, and/or use dish soap


Get a small tube of silicone grease and just smear the end of the tube,Dish soap isnt really recommended.


----------



## cdnGhost

Hey, so quick question... If I can find acrylic tubing locally at a plastics place
Will this work if it is 12mm OD 10mm ID

I will be using the Bitspower c47s

Is there any drawbacks to not using e22?

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdnGhost*
> 
> Hey, so quick question... If I can find acrylic tubing locally at a plastics place
> Will this work if it is 12mm OD 10mm ID
> 
> I will be using the Bitspower c47s
> 
> Is there any drawbacks to not using e22?
> 
> Thanks


If you find 12/10, it should work, but you may want to bring a couple fittings to test before you buy.

12/10 is kinda hard to find, it's usually 12/8 that you find in the plastics outlets.

E22 isn't that expensive, it's available from all the usual places, and it's earned a good rep so far.

Darlene


----------



## cdnGhost

Good to know, thanks


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> E22 isn't that expensive, it's available from all the usual places, and it's earned a good rep so far.
> 
> Darlene


For Canadians it is. You can't get it in Canada. PPCS charges outrageous amounts for shipping to Canada. And FrozenCPU doesn't carry it.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> For Canadians it is. You can't get it in Canada. PPCS charges outrageous amounts for shipping to Canada. And FrozenCPU doesn't carry.


Duty is brutal too..Luckily I live 5 minutes from the US border and have a mail box in Bellingham.


----------



## Jameswalt1

If the E22 isn't available in an affordable fashion, then just get the EK 12/10 HD tube, it's basically identical product.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> E22 isn't that expensive, it's available from all the usual places, and it's earned a good rep so far.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> For Canadians it is. You can't get it in Canada. PPCS charges outrageous amounts for shipping to Canada. And FrozenCPU doesn't carry it.
Click to expand...

Bugger that,

I'm in the Virgin Islands, and generally, if I can get it, anybody can get it, and usually cheaper and easier.

Darlene


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> For Canadians it is. You can't get it in Canada. PPCS charges outrageous amounts for shipping to Canada. And FrozenCPU doesn't carry it.


Frozen carries it in a 2 pack .... 19.5 inch lengths
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21244/ex-tub-2002/EK_12mm_OD_Solid_Tube_Set_-_Clear_-_2x_195_EK-HD_Tube_1012mm_500mm_2_pcs.html?tl=g30c633s2057&id=MIiTsbZv&mv_pc=3462

Asked about longer lengths and they responded saying that they "can get them but shipping them is tough". Perhaps send them an e-mail indicating that you are interested....with so many of us interested in the stuff, maybe they can bet better shipping terms.


----------



## IT Diva

Maybe you guys could get a group buy together, and have it shipped to some one with a PO box or similar in the states.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Or maybe arrange shipping yaself..... I talked to USPS today ... and while the woman wasn't very anxious to help me with my weird request, you can open a Priority / Express mail account and have the cost charged to your account.

Using these, she quoted me the cost to ship a half pound at $5.16 to $16 depending on how quick ya want it........ though the cardboard package might weight a pound for all I know









https://store.usps.com/store/browse/productDetailSingleSku.jsp?productId=P_O_1098M&categoryId=subcatMSS_B_Free


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> E22 isn't that expensive, it's available from all the usual places, and it's earned a good rep so far.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> For Canadians it is. You can't get it in Canada. PPCS charges outrageous amounts for shipping to Canada. And FrozenCPU doesn't carry it.
Click to expand...

Dear god man,speak to Nate directly.

Would you like me to ask him for you?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dear god man,speak to Nate directly.
> 
> Would you like me to ask him for you?


Who?


----------



## cdnGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dear god man,speak to Nate directly.
> 
> Would you like me to ask him for you?


LOL i was like um I'm a Nate but i am fairly certain you were not talking about me...

is the EK-HD 12-10 tube decent? dazmode carrys it.... but not sure if it as good as the E22......
shipping is ok and it comes in 2 sections 500mm each... its 10.49 per ==1000mm


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdnGhost*
> 
> LOL i was like um I'm a Nate but i am fairly certain you were not talking about me...
> 
> is the EK-HD 12-10 tube decent? dazmode carrys it.... but not sure if it as good as the E22......
> shipping is ok and it comes in 2 sections 500mm each... its 10.49 per ==1000mm


This is new, he was just carrying the larger sized tubing before. He even has stock on black fittings.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdnGhost*
> 
> LOL i was like um I'm a Nate but i am fairly certain you were not talking about me...
> 
> is the EK-HD 12-10 tube decent? dazmode carrys it.... but not sure if it as good as the E22......
> shipping is ok and it comes in 2 sections 500mm each... its 10.49 per ==1000mm


I have heard from quite a few people ek acrylic is a great alternative to e22. Very good stuff.


----------



## cdnGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> I have heard from quite a few people ek acrylic is a great alternative to e22. Very good stuff.


Good to hear! I will be buying 2 new rads the c47 fittings and the EK-HD pipe hopefully
In the next week or so... Then on to the build!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Dear god man,speak to Nate directly.
> 
> Would you like me to ask him for you?
> 
> 
> 
> Who?
Click to expand...

Nate,the owner of e22

e22.biz


----------



## Gardnerphotos

He's Editor22 on OCN if you want to PM him


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> ah dish soap, great idea. thanks a lot. ill be sure to post up here when i get the build going.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> dish soap works great. and it is of course really easy to clean out of the tube after you are done, lol


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get a small tube of silicone grease and just smear the end of the tube,Dish soap isnt really recommended.


He is 100% right as soap is a oil based item and a drop of silicone will go for miles!! dose not coat anything or stop any cooling unlike oils!!!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> He is 100% right as soap is a oil based item and a drop of silicone will go for miles!! dose not coat anything or stop any cooling unlike oils!!!


Soap might have oil as a raw material, and might contain an oily emollient (to make your hands soft), but chemically the _soap itself is a salt_. You can use soap safely on acrylic if you wash it away after, but not as a lubricant. I can think of three reasons not to use dish soap: 1) it will damage O-rings; 2) it might contain scouring particles which will mark your acrylic; and 3) white soap can contain titanium or aluminium oxide particles which might accelerate galvanic corrosion.

Silicone grease is an oil. It's a useful lubricant in water cooling because it's a non-biological oil, so it won't swell O-rings or become food for any bacteria.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> He is 100% right as soap is a oil based item and a drop of silicone will go for miles!! dose not coat anything or stop any cooling unlike oils!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Soap might have oil as a raw material, and might contain an oily emollient (to make your hands soft), but chemically the _soap itself is a salt_. You can use soap safely on acrylic if you wash it away after, but not as a lubricant. I can think of three reasons not to use dish soap: 1) it will damage O-rings; 2) it might contain scouring particles which will mark your acrylic; and 3) white soap can contain titanium or aluminium oxide particles which might accelerate galvanic corrosion.
> 
> Silicone grease is an oil. I*t's a useful lubricant in water cooling because it's a non-biological oil, so it won't swell O-rings or become food for any bacteria.*
Click to expand...

Exactly this.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Silicone is all those great things but I prefer to just use water ... in observing engine disassembles at power plants, I have seen greases, gasket material, gasket goop, etc in heat exchangers. If the water velocity thru the fitting shakes a teeny weeny gob loose, it could wind up logged in the micro fins of one of ya blocks. If ya use silicone, I'd be more apt to use the liquid form.

However, keep in mind that many silicone grease / lubricant formulations contain products that are "safe for MOST rubbers and plastics, hence my hesitation.". WD-40 for example sells an excellent liquid silicone product (this is a relatively new product, not the one we have all known and loved for the past 60 years) but I don't know what minor ingredients would be in the formula .... even though label says "Safe to use on rubber, vinyl and plastic"


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Silicone is all those great things but I prefer to just use water ... in observing engine disassembles at power plants, I have seen greases, gasket material, gasket goop, etc in heat exchangers. If the water velocity thru the fitting shakes a teeny weeny gob loose, it could wind up logged in the micro fins of one of ya blocks. If ya use silicone, I'd be more apt to use the liquid form.
> 
> However, keep in mind that many silicone grease / lubricant formulations contain products that are "safe for MOST rubbers and plastics, hence my hesitation.". WD-40 for example sells an excellent liquid silicone product (this is a relatively new product, not the one we have all known and loved for the past 60 years) but I don't know what minor ingredients would be in the formula .... even though label says "Safe to use on rubber, vinyl and plastic"


if your have 'gobs' then you are doing it wrong.
Smear a film on the tube end,not gob it on...thats amateur at best.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

You didn't notice my careful use of highly scientific terms like "teeny weeny"







..... I'm talking smaller than a human hair thickness sized gobbers ....few microns in size ..... such as might build up on the micro channel structure of an EK Supremacy water block see (9:30 mark) here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3QWajDfwew

If we have to worry about plastizers leaching out of plastic in micron sized particles, then agglomerating into a clog.... the same applies here. If ya have 18 O-rings and a pinpoint size piece slogs off each one ... that's a pretty good sized gob once it agglomerates....if ya can take an O-ring and wipe anything off on ya hand, you must assume it can break loose inside even if they are in sizes ya cant see .... hence the prohibition of any toxic lubricants in food processing equipment..... it will contaminate the system


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> You didn't notice my careful use of highly scientific terms like "teeny weeny"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... I'm talking smaller than a human hair thickness sized gobbers ....few microns in size ..... such as might build up on the micro channel structure of an EK Supremacy water block see (9:30 mark) here:
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i3QWajDfwew
> 
> If we have to worry about plastizers leaching out of plastic in micron sized particles, then agglomerating into a clog.... the same applies here. If ya have 18 O-rings and a pinpoint size piece slogs off each one ... that's a pretty good sized gob once it agglomerates....if ya can take an O-ring and wipe anything off on ya hand, you must assume it can break loose inside even if they are in sizes ya cant see .... hence the prohibition of any toxic lubricants in food processing equipment..... it will contaminate the system


When you push the tube into the fitting,the o-ring 'squeegees' the silicone off,no blobs of any type get in if done correctly.
Plasticizer build up is not comparable in any way.


----------



## jleslie246

Silicon spray can be bought in food grade quality, in spray form. I have a can.

Or better yet, just Lick it, before you Stick it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you push the tube into the fitting,the o-ring 'squeegees' the silicone off,no blobs of any type get in if done correctly.
> Plasticizer build up is not comparable in any way.


I just telling you what I have seen in power and treatment systems over the last 30 years. When you test coolants for trace materials you'll find a lot of surprises ..... everything that every mechanic says can't be in there "cause their people know what their doing" is in there ..... and they still argue even after you give them a copy of the lab report. If you have ever had to take down a fitting and reassemble, if the lube is not going anywhere, you should be able to reassemble that fitting 50 times with out reapplying. If ya can't, then it's going somewhere.

Remember I am not saying don't use it. I am saying be aware what's in if ya can and use it judiciously .....use water if possible, and only resort to lubricants when all else fails. Apply sparingly and wipe clean before assembly....the residual amount remaining after the wipe should be enough to do what ya gotta do. And read the label, obtain the MSDS..... "safe for MOST rubber and plastics" does not mean safe for your rubber and plastic.


----------



## Willi

I've seen what just a quick spray of silicon can do to a heat sensor on an Ethyl Acetate plant. It seems like the fitting might "squeeze" the silicon off (and it was a food-grade lubricant, so thin it felt like alcohol). In three days we had it build up all over the thermal sensor, clogging the sensor and messing with the temp reading, result: Loss of about 50000 liters of Acetic Acid and death of all acetobacter in the fermentation tank due to excessive heat. It was a 5cm long needle sensor on the intake of a cooling line that lead directly to a heat exchanger.

Seriously, Silicon-based lubricants, even liquid, can cause a massive mess even if you think none of it went into the system. I'd rather brute-force the acrylic into the fitting than use a lubricant that might bleed into the system. a thin film that forms on the tip surface of the pipe (instead of it's tip), where the fitting doesn't touch, can become a problem. We stopped using it for a while now. We use a vibrating device (basically a motor with an asymmetric weight on the tip) to "vibrate" the pipe into place instead. It works wonders. Again, industrial-oriented materials may differ (greatly) from those in watercooler application.

I tested my pipes on the C-47, they fit VERY snugly and are a bit hard to remove the pipe, but its far from impossible or tight enough to require lubrication.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> I've seen what just a quick spray of silicon can do to a heat sensor on an Ethyl Acetate plant. It seems like the fitting might "squeeze" the silicon off (and it was a food-grade lubricant, so thin it felt like alcohol). In three days we had it build up all over the thermal sensor, clogging the sensor and messing with the temp reading, result: Loss of about 50000 liters of Acetic Acid and death of all acetobacter in the fermentation tank due to excessive heat. It was a 5cm long needle sensor on the intake of a cooling line that lead directly to a heat exchanger.
> 
> Seriously, Silicon-based lubricants, even liquid, can cause a massive mess even if you think none of it went into the system. I'd rather brute-force the acrylic into the fitting than use a lubricant that might bleed into the system. a thin film that forms on the tip surface of the pipe (instead of it's tip), where the fitting doesn't touch, can become a problem. We stopped using it for a while now. We use a vibrating device (basically a motor with an asymmetric weight on the tip) to "vibrate" the pipe into place instead. It works wonders. Again, industrial-oriented materials may differ (greatly) from those in watercooler application.
> 
> I tested my pipes on the C-47, they fit VERY snugly and are a bit hard to remove the pipe, but its far from impossible or tight enough to require lubrication.


Hate to break it to you but im a plumber of some years now,ALL push fit is sprayed/smeared with silicone before use,its the standard method of working with it.
All of the things mentioned in your post are not related to WC in any way but i noticed you considered this already.
The reason you use it is to stop the o-rings being damaged,not to make it easier to install.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hate to break it to you but im a plumber of some years now,ALL push fit is sprayed/smeared with silicone before use,its the standard method of working with it.
> All of the things mentioned in your post are not related to WC in any way but i noticed you considered this already.
> The reason you use it is to stop the o-rings being damaged,not to make it easier to install.


Exactly, We tried to use fittings with o-rings once, but coupling large pipes (4 1/2 pipes usually for the cooling loop) using stainless steel fittings with massive o-rings was a bit problematic (the pipes would stay in place, but any spike in the pump could "spit" them out). So we use mechanical attatchments (much like a VERY oversized compression fitting) to keep them in place. The problem now is that maintenance on anything in that loop is a massive pain, simply because the pipe is VERY tightly secured. We use the large stainless steel fittings on unpressurized lines that need constant maintenance (like the pH analysis sensor line).

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> When you push the tube into the fitting,the o-ring 'squeegees' the silicone off,no blobs of any type get in if done correctly.
> Plasticizer build up is not comparable in any way.


what he said, you just have to be careful not to let any of it accumulate on the very tip of the pipe, where the o-ring doesen't grip or touch


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hate to break it to you but im a plumber of some years now,ALL push fit is sprayed/smeared with silicone before use,its the standard method of working with it.
> All of the things mentioned in your post are not related to WC in any way but i noticed you considered this already.
> The reason you use it is to stop the o-rings being damaged,not to make it easier to install.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly, We tried to use fittings with o-rings once, but coupling large pipes (4 1/2 pipes usually for the cooling loop) using stainless steel fittings with massive o-rings was a bit problematic (the pipes would stay in place, but any spike in the pump could "spit" them out). So we use mechanical attatchments (much like a VERY oversized compression fitting) to keep them in place. The problem now is that maintenance on anything in that loop is a massive pain, simply because the pipe is VERY tightly secured. We use the large stainless steel fittings on unpressurized lines that need constant maintenance (like the pH analysis sensor line).
> 
> But yes, you are absolutely correct, industrial applications (especially oversized ones, comparatively) are not related to WC, if so, only very loosely.
> I imagine that if you are careful enough to apply silicon or any other lubricant away from the tip (to keep it from accumulating on the pipe's tip) might keep the lubricant from reaching the fluid, *since the o-rings wouldn't smear, but instead "drag" it along the pipe's sides and away from the fluid.* (sorry, I spent quite a few minutes trying to draw this, but since I lack any artistic capabilities, I decided to try and explain, feels like I made a mess of it).
> 
> Anyways, might try with silicon and see if it gets any easier to fit the pipes (already practicing the bends and testing the pipes on the fittings over here).
Click to expand...

This.
I tend to use a cloth with the grease rubbed into it then just wipe the end of the pipe,not a fan of the sprays tbh...it tends to get where it shouldnt...over panels that im ready to spraypaint normally.









The thing with any push fit is this,it can fail at any time if installed badly,the normal or most seen fail for me is rolling o-rings where there was no lubrication. It will pass an air test,be commissioned,run for a while then it will just let go one day....all because an 1p o-ring wasnt sitting quite right.

When I was doing industrial fitting,we used 24" cast iron pipe with external clamps,now that gear was something else....unless it failed its pressure test...then its a pig.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> I've seen what just a quick spray of silicon can do to a heat sensor on an Ethyl Acetate plant. It seems like the fitting might "squeeze" the silicon off (and it was a food-grade lubricant, so thin it felt like alcohol). In three days we had it build up all over the thermal sensor, clogging the sensor and messing with the temp reading, result: Loss of about 50000 liters of Acetic Acid and death of all acetobacter in the fermentation tank due to excessive heat. It was a 5cm long needle sensor on the intake of a cooling line that lead directly to a heat exchanger.
> 
> Seriously, Silicon-based lubricants, even liquid, can cause a massive mess even if you think none of it went into the system. I'd rather brute-force the acrylic into the fitting than use a lubricant that might bleed into the system. a thin film that forms on the tip surface of the pipe (instead of it's tip), where the fitting doesn't touch, can become a problem. We stopped using it for a while now. We use a vibrating device (basically a motor with an asymmetric weight on the tip) to "vibrate" the pipe into place instead. It works wonders. Again, industrial-oriented materials may differ (greatly) from those in watercooler application.
> 
> I tested my pipes on the C-47, they fit VERY snugly and are a bit hard to remove the pipe, but its far from impossible or tight enough to require lubrication.


Yes.... that is a concern..... I have 6 temp water sensors, 2 air sensors and 3 surface temp sensors in my current build. And I agree.... if ya put some effort into preparation w/ solid chamfered edges, you shouldn't need more than water as a lubricant most of the time..... I have used a bit of spit in a pinch. When I have to resort to lubes, my method is similar to B'neg's I have a cloth with some lube rubbed into it, I'll roll it on the cloth, then take another clean cloth and try half heartedly try and wipe it off. What's left after the wipe off is enuff to get job done.
Quote:


> Exactly, We tried to use fittings with o-rings once, but coupling large pipes (4 1/2 pipes usually for the cooling loop) using stainless steel fittings with massive o-rings was a bit problematic (the pipes would stay in place, but any spike in the pump could "spit" them out). So we use mechanical attachments (much like a VERY oversized compression fitting) to keep them in place. The problem now is that maintenance on anything in that loop is a massive pain, simply because the pipe is VERY tightly secured. We use the large stainless steel fittings on unpressurized lines that need constant maintenance (like the pH analysis sensor line).


If I am understanding you correctly, these are what we call "locking mechanical joint".

http://www.pipingguide.net/2013/02/joingin-ductile-or-cast-iron-pipe-part-1.html


----------



## jleslie246

o-rings are made with petroleum products. Dab a little silicon spray on your finger tip then moisten the o-ring before sliding the pipe in (does that sound kinky to anyone?). I dont see how this could hurt anything.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> o-rings are made with petroleum products. Dab a little silicon spray on your finger tip then moisten the o-ring before sliding the pipe in (does that sound kinky to anyone?). I dont see how this could hurt anything.


good idea if you have tiny fingertips... but you can always use ear cleaning sticks (can't remember how they are called, my english lexicon is a bit lacking). I shall try this

and yes, locking mechanical joint. Or just Mangote in portuguese. I'm sorry, I have a really hard time remembering technical names in english, it's not my native language


----------



## jleslie246

Yes. Cotton swab or "q tip" works.


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Yes. Cotton swab or "q tip" works.


THANK YOU!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

well, i got my first bend done. turned out ok i think, but i did notice that the tube started to kink a little. that means i need to get a larger area hotter right? anyways, still contemplating the best route to put the tubes. any ideas would be appreciated.



heres a shot of how my build is currently. please, dont mind teh dust and poopy wiring, ill fix all that later, any ideas or pointers you guys can give me as far as the acrylic goes would be awesome.



also, which one? Tilly the cat likes UV emerald green.....


----------



## Gardnerphotos

mint green all the way, absoultely gorgeous color


----------



## lowfat

I prefer a dark non-pastel when i comes to green personally.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

heh, well ****, i guess ill ahve to try both. also, im going to be trying out this Primochill Sysprep i got with my old tubing. ill let you guys know how that turns out as my parts are dirty ass all hell. Thanks


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> heh, well ****, i guess ill ahve to try both. also, im going to be trying out this Primochill Sysprep i got with my old tubing. ill let you guys know how that turns out as my parts are dirty ass all hell. Thanks


I'd make a couple small sealed tube sections and hold it in the case and see which looks better....

That or go with what the cat wants


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd make a couple small sealed tube sections and hold it in the case and see which looks better....
> 
> That or go with what the cat wants


well, im considering what Tilly wants, but not because shes the most beautiful and smartest cat ever in the history of ever. my razer mechanical keyboard just took a poop on me a few days ago, and i think im gonna get black widow to replace it. i have a razer ouroboros coming and i think that the green UV with the green LEDs on the keyboard and mouse will look cool.

i did buy that pastel mint cause i have thought it was the nicest looking coolant for a long time.....

damn these choices.


----------



## korruptedkaos

hi folks, im thinking of doing acrylic tubing this time round & I am looking @ the EK HD fittings, but wondering are they any good?

im just about to order my gpu blocks, & a couple of other things, but im debating what to do?

im stuck between doing copper again or trying acrylic tubing?

is it hard to get the bends how you want them, do you waste a lot of pipe too.

there is 2 size's aswell 13/10 & 16/13? is one going to be easier to work with or are they pretty much the same?

I got some more dosh today so im just filling my shopping cart lol, but going round in circle's?


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> hi folks, im thinking of doing acrylic tubing this time round & I am looking @ the EK HD fittings, but wondering are they any good?
> 
> im just about to order my gpu blocks, & a couple of other things, but im debating what to do?
> 
> im stuck between doing copper again or trying acrylic tubing?
> 
> is it hard to get the bends how you want them, do you waste a lot of pipe too.
> 
> there is 2 size's aswell 13/10 & 16/13? is one going to be easier to work with or are they pretty much the same?
> 
> I got some more dosh today so im just filling my shopping cart lol, but going round in circle's?


i just did mine this weekend, its pretty difficult. i bought 1 4 pack and 1 36 inch from primochill and i used all of it. im actually going to get some more cause im not happy with some of the bends. id say buy way more than you think you will need.


----------



## korruptedkaos

yeah, im thinking it might be pretty hard at first, until you work out a good overall method that works for you?

well I was going to order 8x500mm lengths of tubing, but knowing me







I will probably need more!

I might just do the copper again tbh, its cheaper & I will probably benefit more from it in terms of temps?

I really want to try acrylic tubes though it look's so good,

think I might sleep on it tonight & decide what to do!


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

personally i think that acrylic is way way better looking. overall i really like the acrylic, and i will for sure be getting more and redoing my bends.


----------



## jleslie246

Ok I think I am ready to lay some pipe! Here is the proposed loop. feedback is welcome/needed/requested







Top bends are going to be tricky. I forgot to show the last bends there to the rad. Im trying not to use any angled fittings. I need to clear the soon to be installed fan on the back. And I want to leave room for push fans on the bottom of the rad. just using pull on top right now.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Ok I think I am ready to lay some pipe! Here is the proposed loop. feedback is welcome/needed/requested
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top bends are going to be tricky. I forgot to show the last bends there to the rad. Im trying not to use any angled fittings. I need to clear the soon to be installed fan on the back. And I want to leave room for push fans on the bottom of the rad. just using pull on top right now.


That's gonna be hard to pull off without any adaptors. If you have more than 2 bends it gets pretty difficult to get right. 2 bends in tight areas is pretty tough too. You will need a couple inches from bend to fitting as well.

I'd look at a getting a couple angle adaptors at least. You will want plenty of extra tube too if you are looking at a lot of difficult runs


----------



## jleslie246

I have 10 feet to play/practice with. The top rad is gonna be the bear for sure. Ill give it a try before ordering extra parts









Is the 'loop' ok though?


----------



## IT Diva

Probably the one thing that can't be emphasized enough is the need to make a jig before you bend the first pipe.

There are plenty of pics in this thread of various ways to build one.

I's not rocket science, but it is one of the keys to having everything look right.

Making all the bends with the same radius is the key to having all the piping look consistent, which is the hallmark of a build done properly.

Darlene


----------



## jleslie246

Well I am 2 fittings short. Looks like im going series with the gpu's instead of parallel. From what I have read it, it doesn't make much of a difference. I was doing it more for looks anyway. only slight distortion with my first bend. Starting my second bend now. Wish me luck!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Probably the one thing that can't be emphasized enough is the need to make a jig before you bend the first pipe.
> 
> There are plenty of pics in this thread of various ways to build one.
> 
> I's not rocket science, but it is one of the keys to having everything look right.
> 
> *Making all the bends with the same radius is the key to having all the piping look consistent, which is the hallmark of a build done properly.
> 
> *
> Darlene


All of this.

Consistency is key for a god looking build.

Monsoon have some nice pipe formers coming out,hopefully they will send me a set to work with.


----------



## Inviso

B Neg, I'm really really looking forward to a review of those ASAP so I can order a set and redo my tubes to look much nicer =D


----------



## jleslie246

Prefill, filling, and leak testing.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Prefill, filling, and leak testing.


very nice work dude!

I still don't have the courage to try acrylic yet?


----------



## DreadyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Prefill, filling, and leak testing.


Looks awesome, very nice work


----------



## jleslie246

Thank you. I was a bit nervous on the first section. When the tube is hot you can stretch it, shrink it, twist it or any other needed tweak to get it where you want it.


----------



## korruptedkaos

is it quite easy to work with really? im still debating what to do?

I mean is it easy to manipulate it to get it correct?


----------



## CAxVIPER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> is it quite easy to work with really? im still debating what to do?
> 
> I mean is it easy to manipulate it to get it correct?


Fairly simple, I bought about 6 extra feet to play with and incase I screwed up. But overall it was easy you just need to make sure it is hot enough so it bends without a lot of pressure.


----------



## jleslie246

Thin leather work gloves work great for working with the pipe in a molten state. I had one section I had to stretch about 3mm and another that was about 3mm to long that I was able to shrink in just by pushing the pipe on both ends while hot. It's fun!
Just make sure you leave the silicone insert tube inside the pipe while heating/bending. I used diluted dish soap to jeep the silicone tube lubed up for easy insertion/removal.


----------



## korruptedkaos

id buy some extra to experiment with first & get some sort of technique going on.

its the heat part that worries me tbh, if you overheat it does if fizzle causing bubbles & scorch marks?

what size tubing are you guys using? 13mm or 16mm, as im looking at the ek hd fitting's & they have 2 sizes,

the place that have the fittings don't have the tubing either so I would have to get that on ebay I think?


----------



## wholeeo

Going to make it a priority to stop in at Home Depot or Lowes this weekend and purchase a heat gun.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> id buy some extra to experiment with first & get some sort of technique going on.
> 
> its the heat part that worries me tbh, if you overheat it does if fizzle causing bubbles & scorch marks?
> 
> what size tubing are you guys using? 13mm or 16mm, as im looking at the ek hd fitting's & they have 2 sizes,
> 
> the place that have the fittings don't have the tubing either so I would have to get that on ebay I think?


You just heat it till it bends without effort. I never over heated a single bend. Just kip spinning it about one rotation per second is what I did. And between 3 and 6 inches away with heat gun on high at first then low.

I used primochill 1/2" (13mm) tubing. I also bought a 6' piece from master kar to play with. It is 1/2" but seemed just a hair under as the fittings did not fit as tight. I only use primochill sections in my build.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> ...its the heat part that worries me tbh, if you overheat it does if fizzle causing bubbles & scorch marks?


Don't worry about overheating and scorching your acrylic tubes. The acrylics have an average glass transition temperature (melting point) of 130C, boiling point of 200C, and flash temp (burning point) of over 800C. Your acrylic tubes will melt and boil before it scorches itself. If you're scorching your acrylic, I'd be more worried about burning your house down.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Don't worry about overheating and scorching your acrylic tubes. The acrylics have an average glass transition temperature (melting point) of 130C, boiling point of 200C, and flash temp (burning point) of over 800C. Your acrylic tubes will melt and boil before it scorches itself. If you're scorching your acrylic, I'd be more worried about burning your house down.


Lol yep. Worst you will get is some bubbling and have to redo the bend


----------



## cyphon

Acrylic build done! I am spamming all the threads so I am only going to put a couple in here. More pics in build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic build done! I am spamming all the threads so I am only going to put a couple in here. More pics in build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar


I like the way the white fluid and orange light blend on the lower run from gpu>rad.

Also.. the direction you took with the longer bends. Really fits the crowbar theme.
















The only thing I'd change is the gpu links.

Now then. To the store with me.. for a creamsicle!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> I like the way the white and orange light blend on the lower run from gpu>rad.
> 
> Also.. the direction you took with the longer bends. Really fits the crowbar theme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I'd change is the gpu links.
> 
> Now then. To the store with me.. for a creamsicle!


hahaha, thanks. Yeah, I was torn between acrylic links and the solids....I didn't want to do parallel this time and I think the crystal links look better in parallel config and hard lines in series config, so that was the decision


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Well,had a bit of a result,Monsoon are sending me a Pro-kit for acrylic tube and some more info in what to expect from them
Quote:


> The Pro Benders Kit is really four distinct tool kits all in one big box so that virtually everything a builder needs is included.
> 
> There is a special Layout and Planning tool kit that has a very simple to use yet accurate center line plotting and measurement system. The Mandrels themselves also have center line capabilities built in so the layout and planning tools mesh seamlessly with the Mandrels. All hardware and screws are included.
> The mandrels are machined from solid aluminum, polished, anodized, and laser etched for maximum durability and surface quality on tube contact surfaces. They feature relevant degrees etched on in 1 degree increments. As previously mentioned they also have center line capabilities built in, and the 45, 90, and 180 all feature extended support legs. This makes sure the tube is not only easily held at the exact angle, but is also held exactly "on plane" with zero deformation or twist etc.. They also feature dual pass through holes for M4 (over sized for fine adjustment) that allow for flat mounting on your bending board. Also included are metal 90 degree clips that allow the mandrels to be mounted upright (perpendicular) to your building board so that builders can easily bend and fixture in two or more directions AND on two or more planes at the same time.
> The cutting kit features a miter box (I am including an image below for you--you can post if you like), the saw with extra blades, and a combination inner/outer reamer to clean up the edges after a cut. The miter box is also designed to work within the center line system making locating cuts exactly where you need them very easy.
> The heat gun kit includes a dual setting heat gun, diffuser, and cotton gloves for handling hot tube.
> 
> All screws, clips, and other hardware are included--all a builder needs to add is a 24" x 24" x 1/2" particle board work surface--typically available at big box home improvement stores for $7 - $10.


There are some very cool things being done behind the scenes as well,which im keen to share but its something for someone else to announce

All i can say is that it is an exciting time for Hardliners soon!

When it arrives,pics will be forthcoming in abundance.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,had a bit of a result,Monsoon are sending me a Pro-kit for acrylic tube and some more info in what to expect from them
> There are some very cool things being done behind the scenes as well,which im keen to share but its something for someone else to announce
> 
> All i can say is that it is an exciting time for Hardliners soon!
> 
> When it arrives,pics will be forthcoming in abundance.


sweet cant wait to spend more money on tubing haha. literally just finished mine, already want a do over.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Getting the bends parallel was a pain!


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Acrylic build done! I am spamming all the threads so I am only going to put a couple in here. More pics in build log - http://www.overclock.net/t/1417692/build-log-crowbar


What ram block is that? Is it the x6 or x4, because I don't think the x4 is the clear acrylic?


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> What ram block is that? Is it the x6 or x4, because I don't think the x4 is the clear acrylic?


looks like a very well polished x4


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,had a bit of a result,Monsoon are sending me a Pro-kit for acrylic tube and some more info in what to expect from them
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The Pro Benders Kit is really four distinct tool kits all in one big box so that virtually everything a builder needs is included.
> 
> There is a special Layout and Planning tool kit that has a very simple to use yet accurate center line plotting and measurement system. The Mandrels themselves also have center line capabilities built in so the layout and planning tools mesh seamlessly with the Mandrels. All hardware and screws are included.
> The mandrels are machined from solid aluminum, polished, anodized, and laser etched for maximum durability and surface quality on tube contact surfaces. They feature relevant degrees etched on in 1 degree increments. As previously mentioned they also have center line capabilities built in, and the 45, 90, and 180 all feature extended support legs. This makes sure the tube is not only easily held at the exact angle, but is also held exactly "on plane" with zero deformation or twist etc.. They also feature dual pass through holes for M4 (over sized for fine adjustment) that allow for flat mounting on your bending board. Also included are metal 90 degree clips that allow the mandrels to be mounted upright (perpendicular) to your building board so that builders can easily bend and fixture in two or more directions AND on two or more planes at the same time.
> The cutting kit features a miter box (I am including an image below for you--you can post if you like), the saw with extra blades, and a combination inner/outer reamer to clean up the edges after a cut. The miter box is also designed to work within the center line system making locating cuts exactly where you need them very easy.
> The heat gun kit includes a dual setting heat gun, diffuser, and cotton gloves for handling hot tube.
> 
> All screws, clips, and other hardware are included--all a builder needs to add is a 24" x 24" x 1/2" particle board work surface--typically available at big box home improvement stores for $7 - $10.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are some very cool things being done behind the scenes as well,which im keen to share but its something for someone else to announce
> 
> All i can say is that it is an exciting time for Hardliners soon!
> 
> When it arrives,pics will be forthcoming in abundance.
Click to expand...

Was there any hint on the pricing, . . . . not that it matters . . I just have to have one regardless . . .

Now where's that " Shut up and take my money" emoticon . . . .

Darlene


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Well,had a bit of a result,Monsoon are sending me a Pro-kit for acrylic tube and some more info in what to expect from them
> 
> When it arrives,pics will be forthcoming in abundance.


Figures.... I spent about 2 hours designing one over the weekend......send it out to an acrylic shop to get a manufacturing cost. used perpendicular fences each held in place with twin parallel dados so they can be slid back and forth .... nested set of bend mandrels for various radius bends and adjustable angles in 15 degree increments. Not heard from this guy yet but if anyone knows a shop that would be willing to make, let me know. Not set on acrylic as material....just happen to have a local shop. . Could also be wood or aluminum


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Getting the bends parallel was a pain!


Looks great. Real great.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> What ram block is that? Is it the x6 or x4, because I don't think the x4 is the clear acrylic?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> looks like a very well polished x4


This is correct. I used a fine grit wet sand, dremel buff pad, and some car compound. Then washed it thoroughly.


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This is correct. I used a fine grit wet sand, dremel buff pad, and some car compound. Then washed it thoroughly.


Well I must admit it looks quite good. I wonder if the x6 would work on x79/2011, more heatsink is never bad


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arm3nian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This is correct. I used a fine grit wet sand, dremel buff pad, and some car compound. Then washed it thoroughly.
> 
> 
> 
> Well I must admit it looks quite good. I wonder if the x6 would work on x79/2011, more heatsink is never bad
Click to expand...

Depending on what CPU block you used, and how its retention parts are configured, it may be possible.

For the most part though, it looks like the blocks would overhang and encroach on the retention screws / nuts, unless you mounted them off-center to the outer sides.

Darlene


----------



## Arm3nian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Depending on what CPU block you used, and how its retention parts are configured, it may be possible.
> 
> For the most part though, it looks like the blocks would overhang and encroach on the retention screws / nuts, unless you mounted them off-center to the outer sides.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Hmm thanks for that. I'm going to be using the supremacy. I know the RIVBE has some complications in that area, I'm not sure if that would interfere with anything. The x6 ram blocks look really nice.


----------



## abirli

anyone paint the tubes as an alternative to nickle plated copper? i assume youd propably sand to make the paint tack then prime etc


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> anyone paint the tubes as an alternative to nickle plated copper? i assume youd propably sand to make the paint tack then prime etc


There was a really nice build log not too long ago I was reading where someone painted the acrylic. Looked very nice.

Once I get bored of my sleeved acrylic ill probably give painting a try.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> There was a really nice build log not too long ago I was reading where someone painted the acrylic. Looked very nice.
> 
> Once I get bored of my sleeved acrylic ill probably give painting a try.


link?


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> link?


Ill look more when im on my pc. Cant seem to find right now.


----------



## D33G33

Hi B Neg, and everyone else.

Do you have any rules on how tight a radius of a bend can be? I'm sure there is a formula I just cant remember. For eg. If you have 13mm O/D tube can you not bend around tighter than a 13mm radius die? Does that make sense?

I saw those monsoon bending block guides, I'm going to see if I can get something similar printed up on our 3D printer at work this week.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> anyone paint the tubes as an alternative to nickle plated copper? i assume youd propably sand to make the paint tack then prime etc


I have seen dye threads

http://www.overclock.net/t/1244335/sleeving-custom-color-dye/120#post_17733983


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Hi B Neg, and everyone else.
> 
> Do you have any rules on how tight a radius of a bend can be? I'm sure there is a formula I just cant remember. For eg. If you have 13mm O/D tube can you not bend around tighter than a 13mm radius die? Does that make sense?
> 
> I saw those monsoon bending block guides, I'm going to see if I can get something similar printed up on our 3D printer at work this week.


I have had them as tight as 20mm but you have to slightly pull on the tube to stretch it a touch.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have had them as tight as 20mm but you have to slightly pull on the tube to stretch it a touch.


Thanks,
Sorry if i'm being ******ed but to confirm, You mean 20mm RADIUS or 20mm DIAMETER

Many thanks!
DeeG


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have had them as tight as 20mm but you have to slightly pull on the tube to stretch it a touch.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> Sorry if i'm being ******ed but to confirm, You mean 20mm RADIUS or 20mm DIAMETER
> 
> Many thanks!
> DeeG
Click to expand...

Diameter.

It looked....odd tho


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Diameter.
> 
> It looked....odd tho


No probs thanks very much. I'm not sure if the 2x Monsoon diameters are the same or 13mm and 16mm tube but the former radius is 17.5mm or around a 35mm diameter cylinder.









Be interesting if the printed plastic holds up to the heat of the acrylic to wrap around or not.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Diameter.
> 
> It looked....odd tho
> 
> 
> 
> No probs thanks very much. I'm not sure if the 2x Monsoon diameters are the same or 13mm and 16mm tube but the former radius is 17.5mm or around a 35mm diameter cylinder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be interesting if the printed plastic holds up to the heat of the acrylic to wrap around or not.
Click to expand...

I have the full pro set coming so I can give a run down of how they work.

seeing as the plastic used has a low melt point,i would think some stickiness may result


----------



## seross69

would someone PM me the details about the monsoons I have not found it on the net???


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah I've googled the heck out of it and can't find anything out about the monsoon rigid pipe former being mentioned here. Hopefully it won't be too long before we get more info about it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah I've googled the heck out of it and can't find anything out about the monsoon rigid pipe former being mentioned here. Hopefully it won't be too long before we get more info about it.


I got the money want to see some one please help me???


----------



## pali

I wish they made 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD acrylic.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


----------



## seross69

that is what I want also!!!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pali*
> 
> I wish they made 1/2 ID and 3/4 OD acrylic.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk


http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/119/3561/=pbse0h



Not sure where you'd look for fittings for it though.


----------



## D33G33

Does anyone know from experience or are the able to tell me what temp acrylic is when it becomes maluable(?) bendable?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Does anyone know from experience or are the able to tell me what temp acrylic is when it becomes maluable(?) bendable?


Perhaps this answers your question ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Don't worry about overheating and scorching your acrylic tubes. The acrylics have an average glass transition temperature (melting point) of 130C, boiling point of 200C, and flash temp (burning point) of over 800C. Your acrylic tubes will melt and boil before it scorches itself. If you're scorching your acrylic, I'd be more worried about burning your house down.


That said, I seem to recall reading somewhere else that the flash point of acrylic was a lot less than 800C. I'm pretty sure it's closer to half that, but not sure where I'd look to find out for sure.


----------



## lowfat

Pics of the Monsoon pro kit.


----------



## Willi

love the tools... but the heatgun is a bit too much IMO
pardon my ignorance but what are those acrylic parts in the bottom for? mounting the benders?

Also, finished my endeavor onto acrylic territory

wish I had better photos to post, but I got a dead Nikon D7000 waiting to be sent to maintenance, so the phone camera will suffice







Mounted a 360 rad on the front using a swiftech radbrace since I don't plan on X-Fire or SLI anytime soon...
Some bends didn't turn out as nice as I'd like but there were absolutely NO angle fittings in there, and the material didn't help much on that aspect, walls of the pipe were so thick I had to sand the silicon insert quite alot (enough to get blisters on both hands)

The acrylic I used was bought locally (I live in Brazil and chances are that if I imported, our mail system would manage to destroy them) so its not as transparent as I'd like and the walls are rather thick, but it turned out much better than what I expected.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> love the tools... but the heatgun is a bit too much IMO
> pardon my ignorance but what are those acrylic parts in the bottom for? mounting the benders?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also, finished my endeavor onto acrylic territory
> 
> wish I had better photos to post, but I got a dead Nikon D7000 waiting to be sent to maintenance, so the phone camera will suffice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted a 360 rad on the front using a swiftech radbrace since I don't plan on X-Fire or SLI anytime soon...
> Some bends didn't turn out as nice as I'd like but there were absolutely NO angle fittings in there, and the material didn't help much on that aspect, walls of the pipe were so thick I had to sand the silicon insert quite alot (enough to get blisters on both hands)
> 
> The acrylic I used was bought locally (I live in Brazil and chances are that if I imported, our mail system would manage to destroy them) so its not as transparent as I'd like and the walls are rather thick, but it turned out much better than what I expected.


Yeah iirc Shoggy mentioned in an earlier post that it came with hardware for mounting the benders. Build is looking great btw









I assume they'll be selling a non pro version of the kit or just the benders? I can't imagine that pro kit will be a great value if you can pick most of the stuff up locally.


----------



## lowfat

I hope Monsoon will sell everything w/o the heatgun, saw, and bending cord. Everyone that already has done acrylic will already have this stuff.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I hope Monsoon will sell everything w/o the heatgun, saw, and bending cord. Everyone that already has done acrylic will already have this stuff.


I was thinking the same thing.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Does anyone know from experience or are the able to tell me what temp acrylic is when it becomes maluable(?) bendable?


In an industrial setting the most commonly quoted temp is 130C


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I hope Monsoon will sell everything w/o the heatgun, saw, and bending cord. Everyone that already has done acrylic will already have this stuff.


Looks like the parts won't be sold individually till late February or March.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks like the parts won't be sold individually till late February or March.


Will the full kit with the heat gun and all be offered for sale any sooner?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> love the tools... but the heatgun is a bit too much IMO
> pardon my ignorance but what are those acrylic parts in the bottom for? mounting the benders?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also, finished my endeavor onto acrylic territory
> 
> wish I had better photos to post, but I got a dead Nikon D7000 waiting to be sent to maintenance, so the phone camera will suffice
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted a 360 rad on the front using a swiftech radbrace since I don't plan on X-Fire or SLI anytime soon...
> Some bends didn't turn out as nice as I'd like but there were absolutely NO angle fittings in there, and the material didn't help much on that aspect, walls of the pipe were so thick I had to sand the silicon insert quite alot (enough to get blisters on both hands)
> 
> The acrylic I used was bought locally (I live in Brazil and chances are that if I imported, our mail system would manage to destroy them) so its not as transparent as I'd like and the walls are rather thick, but it turned out much better than what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah iirc Shoggy mentioned in an earlier post that it came with hardware for mounting the benders. Build is looking great btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume they'll be selling a non pro version of the kit or just the benders? I can't imagine that pro kit will be a great value if you can pick most of the stuff up locally.
Click to expand...

They are for mounting on MDF and allows you to make a new plane to make multiple bends that are not on the same plane.
When my kit arrives I will be doing a full walk thru.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks like the parts won't be sold individually till late February or March.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will the full kit with the heat gun and all be offered for sale any sooner?
Click to expand...

They are just hammering out the last few details from what I was told,expect them very soon!


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Welp! Looks like I'll be redoing my rig in 16mm soon!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Don't suppose there's been any hint of a price-point yet for the full Monsoon kit?

I already have a Porter Cable heat gun that I luv & have little doubt that it is a lot better than the one included in that kit, and I have a saw & the primochill silicon insert to go with my primochill tubing & have made my own little former rig that I've been getting decent results with so far on just a few practice pieces I've been fiddling around with until I get the last of the parts in for my next build, so I know I don't really need that monsoon kit.

But I want it anyways.


----------



## seross69

How can I order this kit?? please someone tell me!!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> How can I order this kit?? please someone tell me!!!!


It's not available yet so you can't order it yet, but as B Neg wrote a few posts back that "_They are just hammering out the last few details from what I was told,expect them very soon!_".


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's not available yet so you can't order it yet, but as B Neg wrote a few posts back that "_They are just hammering out the last few details from what I was told,expect them very soon!_".


I want now!!! and will order as soon as it is available. so keep us updated someone!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I want now!!! and will order as soon as it is available. so keep us updated someone!!


yeah to use acrylic tubing in that command center of a rig you're building lol


----------



## DreadyDK

So im trying to find out the outer diameter of a BP-C47 link ? Anyone know?

Not much luck on bitspower's homepage or goggle...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadyDK*
> 
> So im trying to find out the outer diameter of a BP-C47 link ? Anyone know?
> 
> Not much luck on bitspower's homepage or goggle...


Really? Unless I misunderstand what you are looking for its on the BP c47 product page

http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81091846&kind2=91

18mm


----------



## friskiest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadyDK*
> 
> So im trying to find out the outer diameter of a BP-C47 link ? Anyone know?
> 
> Not much luck on bitspower's homepage or goggle...


The fitting itself has an OD of 18mm

You can fit acrylic tubing measuring 12mm OD inside it, such as e22's 10/12 mm which is the same measurements as Crystal Link.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadyDK*
> 
> So im trying to find out the outer diameter of a BP-C47 link ? Anyone know?
> 
> Not much luck on bitspower's homepage or goggle...


18mm by my calipers.

Also


----------



## DreadyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Really? Unless I misunderstand what you are looking for its on the BP c47 product page
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81091846&kind2=91
> 
> 18mm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> The fitting itself has an OD of 18mm
> 
> You can fit acrylic tubing measuring 12mm OD inside it, such as e22's 10/12 mm which is the same measurements as Crystal Link.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 18mm by my calipers.
> 
> Also


Thanks you guys, sorry it was late last night and didnd notice the size where on the picture on bitpowers homepage :/

Thanks again


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Anybody know a US source for the E22 10/12 tubing in 100 inch lengths ?

Seems performancepc's outta stock and no one there to talk to.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Anybody know a US source for the E22 10/12 tubing in 100 inch lengths ?
> 
> Seems performancepc's outta stock and no one there to talk to.


e22.biz.

Nate will ship overseas.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Been there, waiting for response. Asked for contacts of US distributors

Would it be cheaper to fly there and pick it up ?







Hard enough getting it on this side of the pond because of shipping costs.

Edit: Just heard from Nate:

the 100cm lengths are no more ..... just 50cm now (19") ..... he has a few left but won't be sending anymore to this side of the pond unless ordered direct.

4 x 100cm tubing here cost $8.95 .... shipping alone from Nate is almost 5 times that at $40 (£25)


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I want now!!! and will order as soon as it is available. so keep us updated someone!!


Saw mentioned on another thread that this was posted on FrozenCPU's facebook page:
Quote:


> _*FrozenCPU* The info is slowly being revealed. Fittings and tubing ect is all being done we are told. 2-3 week till full launch, I am sure we will have more to share as it trickles in._
> November 12 at 12:31pm




Looks like there will be a 1/2" - 13mm set and a 5/8" - 16mm set.

- - - - - - - -
On another note, has anyone seen this Primochill revolver wrench available anywhere?



I've read a few people here say they tore their fingers up / got blisters or whatnot trying to put a build together with the primochill fittings. I have 20 of these fittings and plan to use most if not all of them. I sure wouldn't mind having that wrench.

Odd they promoted the fittings like that shown with a wrench that I can't seem to find anywhere.


----------



## cyphon

Yeah the wrench would be helpful. I haven't


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Saw mentioned on another thread that this was posted on FrozenCPU's facebook page:
> .


Didn't I mention this before.... don't listen to that guy .... my wife says he's an idiot !


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



assume you talking about my post .... if not my apologies to the poster !


----------



## JackNaylorPE

More new stuff at Frozen from Monsoon


Quote:


> 1.) The tube does NOT come pre printed with the designs--these are sleeves that are heat shrunk on the acrylic tubes AFTER you bend them to the shapes you need using the same heat gun that you use for bending the tube.


More at

https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> More new stuff at Frozen from Monsoon
> 
> 
> More at
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom


OMG its wallpaper for tubing lol, whats next?

pretty much just read this whole thread, my stuff is due on tuesday or Wednesday, so I hope this all go's well for me









I held off for a while debating whether to give it a go or not? I wanted white primochill fittings with the red tubing but instead just got some E22 tube & black EK fittings.

hopefully I should be able to pull it off, it looks pretty simple tbh

wish me good luck folks


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> OMG its wallpaper for tubing lol, whats next?


Wallpaper for Backplates ?
Wallpaper for Rads ? Carbon Fiber would rock.


----------



## korruptedkaos

its a pretty good idea that? backplates rads tube res's etc

wouldn't it just peel off after time though?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> its a pretty good idea that? backplates rads tube res's etc
> 
> wouldn't it just peel off after time though?


Not if you buy the good carbon fiber!! they use this on cars and it last and last so it should be good on the rads...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

http://mnpctech.com/pc-mod-vinyl-wrap-graphics-modding-films-sticker/di-noc-carbon-fiber-film-sheet/di-noc-carbon-fiber.html
http://mnpctech.com/pc-mod-vinyl-wrap-graphics-modding-films-sticker/diamond-plate-film-en.html


----------



## korruptedkaos

only vinyl wrap ive found here in the past is alluminium?

will have to look into this on my next build tbh

& will you guys stop putting these idea's in my head lol.









nah, just kidding


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> only vinyl wrap ive found here in the past is alluminium?
> 
> will have to look into this on my next build tbh
> 
> & will you guys stop putting these idea's in my head lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nah, just kidding


Well if you want to find Good vinyl wrap with all kinds of patters including cardbon fiber. also all colors look at this *site*


----------



## korruptedkaos

im in the uk, but cheers for that?

ive just found some on ebay for 1000mm x 650mm carbon fiber 3D stuff its only 8 quid.

I think ill give it a miss this time though tbh?


----------



## jleslie246

Pretty much the finished project:


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> That is beautiful. I love the bend from the upper rad to the front rad.
> 
> This one finally convinced me to go acrylic, which fittings/tubing did you use?


Thanks.

I use Primochill fittings and tubing. I find it a bit more forgiving as you have a few mm more play at the fitting compared to the Bitspower and EK fittings.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> I use Primochill fittings and tubing. I find it a bit more forgiving as you have a few mm more play at the fitting compared to the Bitspower and EK fittings.


Cool! So assuming I wanted red tubing and anodized silver fittings how does this look ?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Cool! So assuming I wanted red tubing and anodized silver fittings how does this look ?


Depending on your loop I may suggest a bit more tubing unless you can easily buy more later. There is a good chance that your first few bends will be wrong and you'll need to scrap them.


----------



## DreadyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Sorry for crossposting:


Hmm looks very interresting, anyone tryed em ? or are they new and not out yet ?


----------



## robert1978

I just finished my tubing and when I ordered the fittings they were not out yet. I used the ghost fittings. But I like the way these look compared to the standard ghost fittings.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Draining a loop and swapping a CPU is a nightmare w/ acrylic. 2.5 hours just to swap a CPU in my main machine. Now saying for the first time ever I drained my loop and all the tubes were crystal clear. No staining, no clouding, no nothing.


That's scary.... I put in convenient fill and drain lines and used lotta rotary fitting in the hopes of minimizing that.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> That's scary.... I put in convenient fill and drain lines and used lotta rotary fitting in the hopes of minimizing that.


I have the drain in the bottom of my radiator and it helped. But definitely not enough. I put a drain in the bottom of my reservoir in my other system and it was completely useless as it wasn't the lowest point of the loop. But whatever, I am willing to trade off on draining for a better looking lower maintenance system.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I have the drain in the bottom of my radiator and it helped. But definitely not enough. I put a drain in the bottom of my reservoir in my other system and it was completely useless as it wasn't the lowest point of the loop. But whatever, I am willing to trade off on draining for a better looking lower maintenance system.


2.5 hrs as opposed to 1 or whatever is nothing. Just throw on a movie or some music. Even for folks who like to change things all the time ( we all do ) its not like a tear down every day.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> that's why i will stick to soft tube , easier to remove and cheaper , actually i think they came up with hardline just because they realized that their is more waste and more tools to buy , it's more interesting for them to sell hardline stuff then standard soft tube and fittings. every build you have to throw everything but the fittings and start over .
> 
> i realized that you don't put a wc system to look at it but to cool down your computer , if you spend all your time doing/redoing your loop , the wc loop loose all it sens and the expensive hardware is not really used.
> 
> that's why i went with the maximum stuff in my loop outside the case , rad res pump outside , only the bare minimum inside with 2 quick release and after i dont need to drain 2,5 liter of fluid to swap a god damn component. it just a 5-15 min job and then a quick leak test. I only have 6 connection inside and only 2 of them could dmg something if leaking , this is a point too , less risk for my expensive hardware, less time spent leak testing more usefull time on the computer.
> 
> i can totally see these being cool for a show case but irl it s soo unpractical ,it 's totally the opposite mindset , spent hours on your computer and little using it ,.....


For someone that hasnt actually hardlined a rig,where are you getting all this?
Who is the "They" that you mention? "They" didnt comeup with this,we did....6 months ago there was no tooling or involvement from manufacturers.
This is purely community driven,its only now that manufacturers are coming on board.

More importantly,Why do you come here just to troll? This isnt the first time you have appeared in this thread just to comment negatively.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> now for a rig you want to look stunning 24/7 hardline all the way.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be sticking w/ acrylic on every machine for here on out. No plasicizier. Possiblity for MUCH cleaner lines. Coloured coolants look 5x better in acrylic. Plus it is generally fun if you don't get stressed out easily.
Click to expand...

All of this,greatness takes time and effort.


----------



## Ashuiegi

dude are you angry because you just saw a kink in your rig or what ?

they are the manufacturer , if they all jumping on the band wagon it s surely because it s a really bad buisness , it's just an evidence , open your eye , use your brain.
if you prefer , they came up with a hardline product line , but it was pretty much logic too and playing on word is certainly more trolling then giving information , even if it s negative one.

Are you gonna say that it s not hard to drain or longer to move/redo/swap a component ? you don't need to have tried it to know that , it s logic and common sens. these are usefull information too. it s even the most important thing to know before making your decision.

Are you not able to look back on things that you did and say yes that is good , but that sucks ? are you implying that there is only good side in hardline , no drawback ? that would be just bad faith which is just like trolling so i don't even know why you posted ,....


----------



## Ninhalem

As Warren Sapp says, "I pay him no mind."

Back on topic:

This announcement from Monsoon makes me sad. I've already had Christmas presents ordered for the Primochill tubing and fittings to replace all my 1/2" ID tubing and Monsoon fittings that look very unprofessional in my main computer (I have long lines from the Monsoon reservoir to the back radiator). I just wish that the bending portion of that kit is made available since, like everybody else, I already have the appropriate tools (someone mentioned that Porter Cable heat gun and I agree it is a very nice piece of equipment). Having those bending portions would be a great boon since I'm using a ghetto jig that I made from parts at work.


----------



## korruptedkaos

well I did mine yesterday, was pretty easy once I worked out a good technique, however I did waste 3 piece's on 1 of the bends, I then filled it up & it looked really good?

I then flipped on the pump to find a leak & that I have punctured one of my rad's









just ordered another rad & should be here on Friday, will post some pics when I get it back together over weekend.








punctured a rad lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashuiegi*
> 
> dude are you angry because you just saw a kink in your rig or what ?
> 
> they are the manufacturer , if they all jumping on the band wagon it s surely because it s a really bad buisness , it's just an evidence , open your eye , use your brain.
> if you prefer , they came up with a hardline product line , but it was pretty much logic too and playing on word is certainly more trolling then giving information , even if it s negative one.
> 
> Are you gonna say that it s not hard to drain or longer to move/redo/swap a component ? you don't need to have tried it to know that , it s logic and common sens. these are usefull information too. it s even the most important thing to know before making your decision.
> 
> Are you not able to look back on things that you did and say yes that is good , but that sucks ? are you implying that there is only good side in hardline , no drawback ? that would be just bad faith which is just like trolling so i don't even know why you posted ,....


Again,im not angry.
However,why you keep coming in my thread saying how you think its a waste of time?

It isnt hard to change components,it requires bending 2 pieces of tube...hardly an issue if you have already spent the time to do it once.

Dont you understand? We WANT manufacturers to get involved and produce products that help,rather than the make do we have had so far,if you find that hard to understand........








Traditional tube is crap,acrylic is the way forward. Enjoy changing you tubing every few months wont you? While I and many others enjoy crystal clear tube year after year,no fuss.

If you dont wish to constructively contribute to my thread then please,by all means feel free to leave.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> As Warren Sapp says, "I pay him no mind."
> 
> Back on topic:
> 
> This announcement from Monsoon makes me sad. I've already had Christmas presents ordered for the Primochill tubing and fittings to replace all my 1/2" ID tubing and Monsoon fittings that look very unprofessional in my main computer (I have long lines from the Monsoon reservoir to the back radiator). I just wish that the bending portion of that kit is made available since, like everybody else, I already have the appropriate tools (someone mentioned that Porter Cable heat gun and I agree it is a very nice piece of equipment). Having those bending portions would be a great boon since I'm using a ghetto jig that I made from parts at work.


There are going to be rental kits at FCPU and PPC.
As for the mandrels on their own,I will speak to Geno at Monsoon later and clarify for you if these will be separate...I would be amazed if they are not tbh


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Again,im not angry.
> However,why you keep coming in my thread saying how you think its a waste of time?
> 
> It isnt hard to change components,it requires bending 2 pieces of tube...hardly an issue if you have already spent the time to do it once.
> 
> Dont you understand? We WANT manufacturers to get involved and produce products that help,rather than the make do we have had so far,if you find that hard to understand........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Traditional tube is crap,acrylic is the way forward. Enjoy changing you tubing every few months wont you? While I and many others enjoy crystal clear tube year after year,no fuss.
> 
> If you dont wish to constructively contribute to my thread then please,by all means feel free to leave.


you tell him B-NEG!









I had no problem last night draining after a leak in my rad!

hard tubing is the future, no kinking, cleaner lines, better cooling with the copper & looks ten times better!

Sure its harder to fit, but it is well worth it in the end!


----------



## DarthBaggins

To me hard tubing is definitely the way to go. Look at other industries across the board they prefer the reliability of a hard line especially due to cost of labor over time. Do it right once and it can last years or use an inferior lower cost product that you'll be spending more in labor time to replace more often. Pay now or pay later either way soft is more costly in the end.


----------



## szeged

the fact so many companies are back up hard tube just proves how awesome it is, and how awesome our community is for pushing it on them
















thanks to guys like b neg, or else this probably wouldnt have happened.


----------



## cyphon

Just caught up on the thread. Couple comments:

I agree a lot with what lowfat had been commenting on. I found tube bending frustrating at times but overall a good bit of fun with a great reward at the end of the road.

Swapping a single component months down the road is not a concern as it will be roughly the same amount of work as soft tube in the end.

If you are benching and swapping components constantly, hardline is not the right choice, but I don't know of a single person that has wanted hardline on a bench.

And ashuiegi, if you have legitamate and constructive conversation whether it be concerns or questions or relevant proven information, then please contribute. Please don't troll on these forums.


----------



## Ninhalem

The one and only time I have seen hardline on a bench setup is MNPCTech's current build for FrozenCPU that is hard lined either on the entire build or to a certain extent.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

I have primochill acrylic tubing and fittings sitting there not being used basically because I don't have the confidence to bend and fit them. I very badly want to get away from the primochill LRT tubing as I am getting fed up with clouding and issues with plasticiser even when using the advanced tubing and liquid utopia.

More importantly I love the straight lines of acrylic. I really want to give it a go!

I have a heat gun, silicon tube for bending, nothing to cut the tubing to length though or mandrels/benders. What is recommended?

My current loop is actually apart as my D5 pump failed after 11 months, I purchased new blocks etc.

Case is a Corsair 900D and one tube run is quite long from lower rad with ports at front of case to lower GPU block at back of case. Turning the rad around won't help due to the position of the PSU and location of my pump top. In Australia we only seem to be able to get 24" and not 36". Although I am not sure that even 36" would be long enough. How could I join them up??

Cheers

Rob


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> Case is a Corsair 900D and one tube run is quite long from lower rad with ports at front of case to lower GPU block at back of case. Turning the rad around won't help due to the position of the PSU and location of my pump top. In Australia we only seem to be able to get 24" and not 36". Although I am not sure that even 36" would be long enough. How could I join them up??
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


My first guess would be to use something like two fittings and a female/female extender to connect the two. But, maybe someone else here has a better idea.

Edit: I just saw this solution from Bitspower.


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> I have primochill acrylic tubing and fittings sitting there not being used basically because I don't have the confidence to bend and fit them. I very badly want to get away from the primochill LRT tubing as I am getting fed up with clouding and issues with plasticiser even when using the advanced tubing and liquid utopia.
> 
> More importantly I love the straight lines of acrylic. I really want to give it a go!
> 
> I have a heat gun, silicon tube for bending, nothing to cut the tubing to length though or mandrels/benders. What is recommended?
> 
> My current loop is actually apart as my D5 pump failed after 11 months, I purchased new blocks etc.
> 
> Case is a Corsair 900D and one tube run is quite long from lower rad with ports at front of case to lower GPU block at back of case. Turning the rad around won't help due to the position of the PSU and location of my pump top. In Australia we only seem to be able to get 24" and not 36". Although I am not sure that even 36" would be long enough. How could I join them up??
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


Maybe a larger Res or a water flow indicator


----------



## Ninhalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> I have primochill acrylic tubing and fittings sitting there not being used basically because I don't have the confidence to bend and fit them. I very badly want to get away from the primochill LRT tubing as I am getting fed up with clouding and issues with plasticiser even when using the advanced tubing and liquid utopia.
> 
> More importantly I love the straight lines of acrylic. I really want to give it a go!
> 
> I have a heat gun, silicon tube for bending, nothing to cut the tubing to length though or mandrels/benders. What is recommended?
> 
> My current loop is actually apart as my D5 pump failed after 11 months, I purchased new blocks etc.
> 
> Case is a Corsair 900D and one tube run is quite long from lower rad with ports at front of case to lower GPU block at back of case. Turning the rad around won't help due to the position of the PSU and location of my pump top. In Australia we only seem to be able to get 24" and not 36". Although I am not sure that even 36" would be long enough. How could I join them up??
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


For your rad and lower gpu block connection, unless I'm wrong in understanding your situation, you can just create a long pipe of acrylic from the lower block to the radiator. There are plenty of builds like the Crowbar build that have some long, curved lines.

Additional tools that you need are a jeweler's saw (or coping saw, preferably one with a wood handle) for cutting the acrylic, an outer and inner tube reamer (get them at Home Depot) so that you don't have any burs going into the fittings, and any type of mold that you can make to use as a jig for bending the tube. If you can't find anything official like the Monsoon kit when it comes out, I recommend using case feet, canned foods, or even other types of pipe to get the bend you're looking for.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> I have primochill acrylic tubing and fittings sitting there not being used basically because I don't have the confidence to bend and fit them. I very badly want to get away from the primochill LRT tubing as I am getting fed up with clouding and issues with plasticiser even when using the advanced tubing and liquid utopia.
> 
> More importantly I love the straight lines of acrylic. I really want to give it a go!
> 
> I have a heat gun, silicon tube for bending, nothing to cut the tubing to length though or mandrels/benders. What is recommended?
> 
> My current loop is actually apart as my D5 pump failed after 11 months, I purchased new blocks etc.
> 
> Case is a Corsair 900D and one tube run is quite long from lower rad with ports at front of case to lower GPU block at back of case. Turning the rad around won't help due to the position of the PSU and location of my pump top. In Australia we only seem to be able to get 24" and not 36". Although I am not sure that even 36" would be long enough. How could I join them up??
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob
> 
> 
> 
> For your rad and lower gpu block connection, unless I'm wrong in understanding your situation, you can just create a long pipe of acrylic from the lower block to the radiator. There are plenty of builds like the Crowbar build that have some long, curved lines.
> 
> Additional tools that you need are a jeweler's saw (or coping saw, preferably one with a wood handle) for cutting the acrylic, an outer and inner tube reamer (get them at Home Depot) so that you don't have any burs going into the fittings, and any type of mold that you can make to use as a jig for bending the tube. If you can't find anything official like the Monsoon kit when it comes out, I recommend using case feet, canned foods, or even other types of pipe to get the bend you're looking for.
Click to expand...

First post of this thread details a basic former.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Thank you all for the very quick replies and ideas. I noted that frozen CPU has a deburring tool but it is out of stock :-(

Nothing like that seems to be available here in Australia for the primochill pipe size and acrylic tubing. Sigh.

Any other ideas in that regard.

Sorry for all of the questions.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Thank you all for the very quick replies and ideas. I noted that frozen CPU has a deburring tool but it is out of stock :-(
> 
> Nothing like that seems to be available here in Australia for the primochill pipe size and acrylic tubing. Sigh.
> 
> Any other ideas in that regard.
> 
> Sorry for all of the questions.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


You can use a drill bit thats larger than the tube ID for the internal edge burrs,just spin it in your fingers to remove them.
External burrs can just be sanded off


----------



## robert1978

I used Primochill hard pipe and fittings and I just used my finger to get the burse off. And ya the out side just sanded them. Its not to bad to work with once you get the hang of it. I would say try not to bend to close to the fitting cause the pipe has a hard time fitting into the fitting. I found that in those spot I had to use a 90 or a 45 then the fitting. I would say get a little more pipe then you need for mistakes. Once you get the pipe into the fitting I found it very hard to get a leak. Hope this helps you out. O also the cord that I got from Performance PC fit right into the pipe I did not have to use any oil to make it fit.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> I have primochill acrylic tubing and fittings sitting there not being used basically because I don't have the confidence to bend and fit them. I very badly want to get away from the primochill LRT tubing as I am getting fed up with clouding and issues with plasticiser even when using the advanced tubing and liquid utopia.
> 
> More importantly I love the straight lines of acrylic. I really want to give it a go!
> 
> I have a heat gun, silicon tube for bending, nothing to cut the tubing to length though or mandrels/benders. What is recommended?
> 
> My current loop is actually apart as my D5 pump failed after 11 months, I purchased new blocks etc.
> 
> Case is a Corsair 900D and one tube run is quite long from lower rad with ports at front of case to lower GPU block at back of case. Turning the rad around won't help due to the position of the PSU and location of my pump top. In Australia we only seem to be able to get 24" and not 36". Although I am not sure that even 36" would be long enough. How could I join them up??
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


Basically two routes:

*Straight Lines:* - You use fittings to do the bends.... I prefer this look but it is more expensive. You also have much more flexibility this way, with items like valves, quick disconnects, tees etc available. When attaching to components you'll "need" (sometimes convenient to add 90 or 45 bend) just the one fitting (i.e Bitspower C47). When doing a bend unattached to anything (tube to tube) you'll need 3. For example ...

90 DEGREE BEND: ($29.28 EACH)

1 x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $5.75 (sold in pairs for 11:50)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $11.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145

1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68) - $5.49
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68

And with $23 for those three fittings, ya can see the money impact.

Here's an example of that approach from June's Comdex .... scroill about 2/3 down the page B$ the tubing stuff starts

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-VI-Formula-Show-Casemod-MbK

*Bent Tubing:* - You'll still need the C47's at each component and ya may want to grab the 45's and 90s now and then but ya can bend the rest of them. This kit handles the cutting,

10mm / 12mm ID (EK-HD Tube D.I.Y. Kit 10&12mm)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21263/ex-tub-2005/EK_Solid_Tube_Modification_Kit_-_10mm_12mm_ID_EK-HD_Tube_DIY_Kit_10and12mm.html?tl=c633s2057b133

and this helps prepare ya tubes from insertion and protect ya O-rings from damage

Hard Tubing Internal and External Reamer / Deburring Tool
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21932/ex-tub-2299/Hard_Tubing_Internal_and_External_Reamer_Deburring_Tool.html

Now that is for European based products which use primarily 10mm ID / 12mm OD tubing / fittings ..... The alternative is the 1/2 " stuff available for example from Primochill which has their own fittings..... no 90s, 45'

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c633/s2021/list/p1/b46/PrimoChill-Tubing_-_Rigid_Acrylic-12_OD_Rigid_Compression-Page1.html

They have a bending kit too
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21575/ex-tub-2120/PrimoChilll_12_OD_Rigid_Tubing_Bending_Kit_.html?tl=c633s2087b46

As far as bending goes, you can use common household items like D batteries for example.

Monsoon has a complete new line coming out with interesting looking fittings (look like real industry MJ pipe fittings), tubing, complete kit and even tube appliques.

Can read about those here

https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Thank you all for the very quick replies and ideas. I noted that frozen CPU has a deburring tool but it is out of stock :-(
> 
> Rob


I actually bought the last one but by time I arrived on Tuesday, it was sold by mistake. They expecting them in today

BUt you can buy them in Home Deport of hardware stores



http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inner-Outer-Reamer-HDX085/204218601#.Uo5BNeKQMSE

Also on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=reaming+tool+rodeberge+deburring&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Areaming+tool+rodeberge+deburring

They sold all over in mom and pop stores, name of manufacturer is Rodeberger or something close to that


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Thank you ALL for the fantastic replies, ideas and help. I can't wait. Hopefully I can get it to work and it will look ok and more importantly not leak.

Will try our equivalent of Home Depot here in Australia noting the tube size needed, other will try a drill bit reamer and sand paper. With the coping saw, I assume you Mark a nice 90 degree line for a straight cut?

Cheers

Rob


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Thank you all for the very quick replies and ideas. I noted that frozen CPU has a deburring tool but it is out of stock :-(
> 
> Nothing like that seems to be available here in Australia for the primochill pipe size and acrylic tubing. Sigh.
> 
> Any other ideas in that regard.
> 
> Sorry for all of the questions.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


For a deburring tool in au look at gun shops for a rifle case or preferably pistol case deburr tool ... it will do outside and inside. Its kind of overkill as they are made of high strength steel or carbide but it will last forever and if you want to ever try copper it will be useful.


----------



## lowfat

Not sure why you'd need a special tool for deburring. Just use a file. It takes like 5 seconds.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not sure why you'd need a special tool for deburring. Just use a file. It takes like 5 seconds.


This. Sandpaper and files work fine.


----------



## robert1978

Ya like I said, I used my finger for the inside and sand paper for the out side. I also used a can of compressed air to blow out any thing that was inside. Most of the burs that I found on the inside came off easy. And if you are using ghost fittings there doesn't really need to be a trapper on the out side.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robert1978*
> 
> Ya like I said, I used my finger for the inside and sand paper for the out side. I also used a can of compressed air to blow out any thing that was inside. Most of the burs that I found on the inside came off easy. And if you are using ghost fittings there doesn't really need to be a trapper on the out side.


I am glad I am using ghost fittings because not one of my tubes has a trapper on it. where do we get these trappers???


----------



## robert1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am glad I am using ghost fittings because not one of my tubes has a trapper on it. where do we get these trappers???


LOL


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Thank you ALL for the fantastic replies, ideas and help. I can't wait. Hopefully I can get it to work and it will look ok and more importantly not leak.
> 
> Will try our equivalent of Home Depot here in Australia noting the tube size needed, other will try a drill bit reamer and sand paper. With the coping saw, I assume you Mark a nice 90 degree line for a straight cut?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


Size is immaterial.... that one in pic works for like 1/4" thru 1.5"

Did bunch of tubes last night .... what I learned ..... mostly for the "non benders"

1. If you meticulous plan your layout and order the exact amount of fittings you need, the ones you bought just in case will find a need in your loop to be there and the ones you bought a lot of wind up left over.....OK exaggerating a bit but I did run out of 45's .... didn't think id need any, bought 2, need 4 and I did run outta 30mm extensions (bought 2 need 3) an M X M extenders (bought 2 need 4).

2, Buy tape.... I used this cause it was convenient ... should be easy enough to get at local hardware store.
2" x 180' Modding Masking Tape
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14493/too-40/2_x_180_Modding_Masking_Tape.html

Center the tape about where ya think you'll need the cut ....measure it up mark the tape, cut the line....glue keeps dust down. The hand saw in the EK kit is fine..... think I'll grab a fine blade for my scroll saw tomorrow.

3. Handy to have a spare C47 fitting and 30mm extender available ....starting with a fill 19.5" tube I reamed both ends so always had one clean side. After cutting a short piece, connect the C47 and 30mm extension to the clean side if the tube. This gives you something to grip when chamfering the freshly cut end of the tube.....and keeps ya knuckles from getting reamed









4. Caliper very handy for those tough to accurately measure cuts .... take best guess.... cut, measure.... ream edges, test fit ..... measure.... take off 1 , 2 whatever mm at a time using caliper to measure progress.

5. 200 waterproof (usually black) sand paper great for final edge finish, layout newspaper and rub edge 5-6 times back and forth after reaming and rinsing (hence the waterproof) .... if ya cut is off 90....too much to sand, dremel with grind wheel works wonders.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Not sure why you'd need a special tool for deburring. Just use a file. It takes like 5 seconds.


Deburring probably a bad word to describe the what I think is one of the tasks being discussed......on any piping / tubing where ya want a tight fit it is common to chamfer the pipe edge of the pipe / tube.

Quote:


> EK-HD Tube is solid type extruded acrylic tubing intended to be used with EK-HD Adapter fittings. ..... *It is mandatory to chamfer the edges of freshly cut tube in order to prevent gasket (O-ring) damage*. EK recommends a 0,5mm x 45° chamfer.


Personally, mandatory seems a strong word but it sure did make assembly a lot easier. Forgot once or twice and it was a bit harder ..... every fitting slipped in easily with just water as lubricant.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Mandatory is the correct word,you must make sure the leading edge of the tube doesn't damage the o-ring,bevelling the edge makes sure that doesn't happen.
Even the reamers have to be carefully used,they need a light touch otherwiise they can leave sharp plastic edges running at 90 to the o-ring,making it easy it damage them.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

WOW!!!! I just finished reading all 122 pages of this thread. Some of the craftsmanship in the builds and work with acrylic is simply amazing. It has made me even more nervous to attempt to rebuild my loop with acrylic tubing!

I am NOT very good with my hands, am impatient and expect perfection. Not a great combination for WC and computers.

But I literally would die to have a successful and good looking acrylic build. I will be using clear tubing with black fittings for now. Currently have 2 x 4 pack of 24" and 16 fittings/connectors.

Thank you all for your inspiration, ideas and feedback/help.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Mandatory is the correct word,you must make sure the leading edge of the tube doesn't damage the o-ring,bevelling the edge makes sure that doesn't happen.
> Even the reamers have to be carefully used,they need a light touch other wiise they can leave sharp plastic edges running at 90 to the o-ring,making it easy it damage them.


I use it and and I recommend using it which is why I chased down the tool and posted locations where ya can find it. I also recommended sanding afterwards as I have seen sharp edges left by the reamer / or original cut .... you can even make the entire ID one if ya ream down a full mm

I only mentioned that there are apparently people not reaming but using a file, sandpaper or lubricants as an alternate method..... Recommended no .... but possible ? seems so, given the results. For the $10 investment in the tool, I can't imagine doing it any other way. Can't be that much more expensive than a lube anyway.


----------



## korruptedkaos

finally got the new rad in & no leaks TG!

just got to wire it all up now & pop in the few other bits, this is going to take a while I think









one of the bends from the cpu to the top rad took me about 4 attempts? it is a bit wonky but hey if it fits











for some reason the fluid looks really bright in the pic? its the lights I guess & im no photographer

I thought this was going to be really hard to be honest but it was really quite easy,

for anyone thinking of doing it, I didn't use a former or magoo or anything lol, no tape measure either
the only thing I used was a heatgun, silicone tube, hax saw & sand paper. bodged it lol
im happy with it though for a first attempt

only advice I can really say is, start with your shortest run & heat the tube as evenly as possible where you want it to bend,
bending it slightly in small amounts is easier on the longer runs aswell to get them where you need them to be?

all round it was good fun tbh, I used EK HD 10/12mm fittings, with E22 tubing, I bought 10 length's of 500mm & I used 9 of them
I wasted 3 though.

Just want to thank B-NEG & all the other members who contributed here


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> WOW!!!! I just finished reading all 122 pages of this thread. Some of the craftsmanship in the builds and work with acrylic is simply amazing. It has made me even more nervous to attempt to rebuild my loop with acrylic tubing!
> 
> I am NOT very good with my hands, am impatient and expect perfection. Not a great combination for WC and computers.
> 
> But I literally would die to have a successful and good looking acrylic build. I will be using clear tubing with black fittings for now. Currently have 2 x 4 pack of 24" and 16 fittings/connectors.
> 
> Thank you all for your inspiration, ideas and feedback/help.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


don't stress, I'm similar to you and I made it through, lol

The reward is great which helps


----------



## Kurodragon

Sorry if this has been asked before but I have been doing tons of research in the past few months for WCing my next build, but just recently my friend wants me to try acrylic. I had originally planned for just regular tubing.

I was planning on using Primochill Ghost fittings and Primochill 1/2' x 3/8' Acrylic tubing. However, I noticed I could buy more tubing for significantly cheaper here. They have the same dimensions, would I just be able to use that tubing instead? (And buy a lot more for testing)


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> Sorry if this has been asked before but I have been doing tons of research in the past few months for WCing my next build, but just recently my friend wants me to try acrylic. I had originally planned for just regular tubing.
> 
> I was planning on using Primochill Ghost fittings and Primochill 1/2' x 3/8' Acrylic tubing. However, I noticed I could buy more tubing for significantly cheaper here. They have the same dimensions, would I just be able to use that tubing instead? (And buy a lot more for testing)


I picked up some tubing from mcmaster.com that had the same specs as the primochill acrylic. When I started using it I found it wasnt exactly the same. The primochill fit tighter in the ghost fittings than the mcmaster tubing. You may have better luck. I ended up using the cheap stuff to practice with but the primochill for the build.

I noticed that company you linked ships in 6' sections only. Shipping wont be cheap.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'm gonna agree with the above .... you buy random tubing and what you use it for is your choice .... you buy from a vendor who specializes in water cooling and you have an expectation of "fitness for intended use".

I can tell you one thing about US Plastics...... I was following the same route as you ..... I wasn't looking for cheaper, i was looking for longer. They do not respond to any communication. I have left phone messages, e-mails ..... no response. I get the impression if ya buying less than half a truckload they are not interested.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Hi Crew,

I had a quick play with bending the tubing yesterday. Not too difficult. Only 90 degree bends. Found it better not to use a "mandrel" with sharp edges.

I just don't have a 100% confidence in the primochill ghost fittings and retaining the tubing.........

I noticed that if I pulled on the tubing hard enough it would come out!!

Sigh. I am literally torn in two.


----------



## lowfat

Most tubing will pull out of a compression fitting if you pull hard. The tubing will never pop out on its own.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> I had a quick play with bending the tubing yesterday. Not too difficult. Only 90 degree bends. Found it better not to use a "mandrel" with sharp edges.
> 
> I just don't have a 100% confidence in the primochill ghost fittings and retaining the tubing.........
> 
> I noticed that if I pulled on the tubing hard enough it would come out!!
> 
> Sigh. I am literally torn in two.


think about it how is the hard tubing going to come out when there is something at both ends. and like was stated if you on it hard enough it does not matter what it is it will come apart!!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hi Crew,
> 
> I had a quick play with bending the tubing yesterday. Not too difficult. Only 90 degree bends. Found it better not to use a "mandrel" with sharp edges.
> 
> I just don't have a 100% confidence in the primochill ghost fittings and retaining the tubing.........
> 
> I noticed that if I pulled on the tubing hard enough it would come out!!
> 
> Sigh. I am literally torn in two.


I have taken apart my tubes at least 5-6 times during the build.....requires some oomph....

Hmmmm....if I can remember where I did it ..... I calculated the static pressure force pushing apart tubing in a recent thread ..... was 0.7 pounds .... that doesn't include water hammer at startup and shut down but the air in ya res will do a lot to absorb that

ahh.... here it is ... post 18

http://www.overclock.net/t/1445280/tubing-sizes-and-efficiencies/10#post_21253030


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Fair enough. Just not sure. I have new LRT tubing and fittings on previous build here, as well as the acrylic and ghost fittings. Time is really short for me at the moment..hmmmm


----------



## Ninhalem

You also need to consider what Seross69 said. Since the acrylic is rigid and there are fittings on both ends, you would need significant water pressure to force the tubing to come out of the fitting but also to bend in order to enable the action of coming out of the fitting.

I have a small initial hard line from the bottom of my loop (the GPU) to the back of my case and I can tell you that trying to get that to come out of its current position would be no small feat.


----------



## Solonowarion

Im not sure where people get the idea tubing will just pop out. There is not even close to enough pressure to pop it off. Compression, push or friction fit.
Unless you are super clumsy and somehow grab a pipe and pull it out.


----------



## Ninhalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> love the tools... but the heatgun is a bit too much IMO
> pardon my ignorance but what are those acrylic parts in the bottom for? mounting the benders?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Also, finished my endeavor onto acrylic territory
> 
> wish I had better photos to post, but I got a dead Nikon D7000 waiting to be sent to maintenance, so the phone camera will suffice
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mounted a 360 rad on the front using a swiftech radbrace since I don't plan on X-Fire or SLI anytime soon...
> Some bends didn't turn out as nice as I'd like but there were absolutely NO angle fittings in there, and the material didn't help much on that aspect, walls of the pipe were so thick I had to sand the silicon insert quite alot (enough to get blisters on both hands)
> 
> The acrylic I used was bought locally (I live in Brazil and chances are that if I imported, our mail system would manage to destroy them) so its not as transparent as I'd like and the walls are rather thick, but it turned out much better than what I expected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah iirc Shoggy mentioned in an earlier post that it came with hardware for mounting the benders. Build is looking great btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume they'll be selling a non pro version of the kit or just the benders? I can't imagine that pro kit will be a great value if you can pick most of the stuff up locally.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are for mounting on MDF and allows you to make a new plane to make multiple bends that are not on the same plane.
> When my kit arrives I will be doing a full walk thru.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks like the parts won't be sold individually till late February or March.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Will the full kit with the heat gun and all be offered for sale any sooner?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are just hammering out the last few details from what I was told,expect them very soon!
Click to expand...

Questions Answered: See below edits.

Edit: I failed at using the quote tool. Went back and clarified what I was asking questions about.

Edit2: I found BoxGods' (Monsoon) answers elsewhere.

*Answer 1*:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> The holes in the mandrels turn them into mountable jigs. You can screw these down to a work board either flat or upright with the included clips and mounting hardware. That will allow you to fixture and bend in two directions or on two "planes" at the same time. And because the mandrels have supported areas like on and off ramps on either side of the radius your going to get exact angles without over or under bending. The trough or half round also supports the tube and prevents twisting and they denote the center line of the tube making measurement very very easy. When you see the rest of the tools and the how to video's it will all make sense.






*Answer 2:*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Probably at some point after launch yes. It has always been the idea that these would be 4 individual tool kits that work together but in order to get the cost down as much as possible for launch we eliminated 3 kits worth pf packaging and boxes and put it all together in one box. I know that doesn't sound like a lot of savings but by the time distributors and resellers etc. add their respective markup it saves end users (aka customers) over $15. Having it all in one box also makes rentals possible--you can rent the entire pro kit for less then the cost of buying say just the mandrels alone.
> 
> But short answer, yes the kits will sell individually after launch. Late February or early March give or take.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> Im not sure where people get the idea tubing will just pop out. There is not even close to enough pressure to pop it off. Compression, push or friction fit.
> Unless you are super clumsy and somehow grab a pipe and pull it out.


yeah.

I was apprehensive at first as well, but once I did a couple test runs I quickly realized that there is absolutely no way those things are going to come out unless you are really trying to get them out.

There is nothing to worry about if you get them in the fittings correctly


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I had a few shorties .... like 25mm .... where I forgot to chamfer the end before I cut it off a longer piece..... those were a bear to get out.

By way of explanation, the reaming / chamfering tool has about 1.0 - 1.5" depth .... so when chamfering short pieces, I insert one end into a C47 and 30mm extension fitting to hold the tube while reaming ... otherwise I'd I'd cut my knuckles on the sharp edges of the tool. So when done, ya rinse off the fuzzies, ya have wet hands, wet tube and even after drying and waving ya hands to air dry....it was still tough.

If you wet the O-rings they go in easy enough .... normally pulling them out isn't bad unless the dry.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I had a few shorties .... like 25mm .... where I forgot to chamfer the end before I cut it off a longer piece..... those were a bear to get out.
> 
> By way of explanation, the reaming / chamfering tool has about 1.0 - 1.5" depth .... so when chamfering short pieces, I insert one end into a C47 and 30mm extension fitting to hold the tube while reaming ... otherwise I'd I'd cut my knuckles on the sharp edges of the tool. So when done, ya rinse off the fuzzies, ya have wet hands, wet tube and even after drying and waving ya hands to air dry....it was still tough.
> 
> If you wet the O-rings they go in easy enough .... normally pulling them out isn't bad unless the dry.


Do you have a link to your build log? I cant find any pics in your profile nor a log.

Short pieces are better done with abrasive paper rather than the tool,you have much more control.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Paper would take too long .... the extension fitting works like a charm and allows me to hold perfectly centered and get even results 360 all around..... thinking of mounting on a cheap drill press.

Don't have a build log







Maybe in a month or two when I finish the sleeving, I'll take some pics. In flush / test phase now.... will tear down and redo cupla lines I wanna shorten lengthen a mm or 2.



I was hoping the parallel GFX feed, while unlike a bridge, it does give perfectly balanced flow to both cards .... it did not lend any rigidity to or lift to "GFX card sag"..... I'm talking about that outer front corner droop ya get from the weight of the card being unsupported at that corner. Only idea I came up with for far is some kind of post support at the corner ....cud even use some leftover tube.


----------



## Ninhalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Paper would take too long .... the extension fitting works like a charm and allows me to hold perfectly centered and get even results 360 all around..... thinking of mounting on a cheap drill press.
> 
> Don't have a build log
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe in a month or two when I finish the sleeving, I'll take some pics. In flush / test phase now.... will tear down and redo cupla lines I wanna shorten lengthen a mm or 2.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I was hoping the parallel GFX feed, while unlike a bridge, it does give perfectly balanced flow to both cards* .... it did not lend any rigidity to or lift to "GFX card sag"..... I'm talking about that outer front corner droop ya get from the weight of the card being unsupported at that corner. Only idea I came up with for far is some kind of post support at the corner ....cud even use some leftover tube.


I'm having a slightly hard time not understanding how a bridge, instead of your current setup, does not give uniform flow to each card. It's the same mass flow in and out of the cards so it would be uniform. The only thing I'm hesitant about is the weight of all those fittings on the video cards and the resulting torque at the PCI-E slots.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Having taught fluids at a college level and working in plant / piping design on a daily basis, the unequal flow paths in a bridge is something that bothered me on a very basic level .... something ya might find understandable given our "engineer" mentality here at the office. ..... I also find the aesthetics of a huge block right in the center of the window objectionable. Given the focus of my consulting firm as piping / plant engineers, that was the theme we were going for and would have done a full "piped" loop if parts were readily available. Looking at setting up a nickel plating station and using all plated brass / copper for next one.

I always scrunched up my face when read posts about even 1C differences between cards, wanted to take a shot at eliminating that for no other reason than the challenge of doing so. .... but then I was also told measuring the water temps in and out would be immeasurable and I'm seeing 0.8 across each rad ....both cards hit 36 under Furmark..... Rad temp immediately downstream is 31.3 in 30.5 out. with air about 20C, I'm just missing the 10 Delta T but that should improve once I add the pull fans on top of the push. haven't had a chance to play w/ fan speed as yet.

The fittings are actually lifting the cards slightly..... the feed line from the rad serves as a "post" at the right corner .... it's now about 1.5mm higher than before I connected the loop......think I might add a mm or so when I take it down post flush.....or maybe add a "post" under the cards right corner as you can see them pulling the fittings there down....when I unscrew the elbow from the block the card drops a bit.

Even before when I was just doing measurements for mounting the res and stuff..... ya look at the left side and you couldn't see the slot at all, just the Asus Thermal armor.... at the right ya could..... with the tubing and fittings added, i was able to eliminate about half of what ya could see.....would like to see it all even







. Well at least it's better than the air cooled build in the next room


----------



## Ninhalem

I still don't understand the flow being unequal with the bridge (engineer here also), but that's moot at this point. Would a single hard link (either all fittings or acrylic) between the cards been a consideration?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> *I still don't understand the flow being unequal with the bridge* (engineer here also), but that's moot at this point. Would a single hard link (either all fittings or acrylic) between the cards been a consideration?


It makes no difference,the flow restriction of the block is the deciding factor,equal restriction= equal flow....


----------



## OneFast3

Primochill posted pics of a bender coming soon on facebook.


----------



## lowfat

I think that is bauce.


----------



## Ninhalem

Curious to see which one would be easier to use: the mandrels from Monsoon or this piece.


----------



## seross69

monsoon of course!!!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> Curious to see which one would be easier to use: the mandrels from Monsoon or this piece.


My money is on the monsoon kit,mainly as this is a set plane set while the monsoon kit can be used in a X Y Z axis/plane


----------



## Ninhalem

True and the Monsoon mandrels look more hand friendly than what Primochill is possibly doing.

The December date is better timing than Monsoon, but if the quality is as good as the pictures infer, then the Monsoon stuff will be worth the wait for individual purchases.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> True and the Monsoon mandrels look more hand friendly than what Primochill is possibly doing.
> 
> *The December date is better timing than Monsoon*, but if the quality is as good as the pictures infer, then the Monsoon stuff will be worth the wait for individual purchases.


FWIW, FrozenCPU keeps saying on their Facebook page that the Monsoon kit should be available around the end of Nov (ie: any day now).

https://www.facebook.com/frozencpucom

Has there been any other source saying otherwise?


----------



## Ninhalem

I was referring to the sale of the individual parts out of that kit, rather than either a rental or a full kit purchase.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> I was referring to the sale of the individual parts out of that kit, rather than either a rental or a full kit purchase.


Or at least a mini kit that has only the formers and skip the heat gun and saw and so on.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Plus, Monsoon is doing 16mm!!! I'm all about it.


----------



## geogga

Hmm, that primochill bender looks good for noob benders like me.
Going to find out this monsoon mandrel thing


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Plus, Monsoon is doing 16mm!!! I'm all about it.


Also excited bout that


----------



## D33G33

I had a quick a dirty go with the 3D printer. I set the channels deeper than the Monsoon kit to try discourage the tube from flattening out or teh sidewalls widening.

I have no idea how the 3D printed plastic will hold up to 140degree acrylic tube either... Should be good for a giggle.


----------



## lowfat

Totally jelly of that and your 3D printer. How long did it take you to design it?


----------



## D33G33

Not long at all. took about 1.5 hours to print though. Ha! It's only a MakerBot V2


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneFast3*
> 
> Primochill posted pics of a bender coming soon on facebook.


Looks good. Simple design. Others mentioned that multi plane work may be more difficult. What of the BIG things for me in the Monsoon kit is the mitre box for 90 degree end cuts!!!

I have yet to find anything that will work at giving a perfect 90 degree cut, especially when I am OCD!

Have decided to hold off until I have the right tools for the job.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Looks good. Simple design. Others mentioned that multi plane work may be more difficult. What of the BIG things for me in the Monsoon kit is the mitre box for 90 degree end cuts!!!
> 
> I have yet to find anything that will work at giving a perfect 90 degree cut, especially when I am OCD!
> 
> Have decided to hold off until I have the right tools for the job.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


I used a scroll saw and it rocked ..... I had to do a slight sand / dremel on maybe 1 outta 4 cuts in the beginning but could have avoided that w/ a simple fence / jig ... after the 7th or 8th cut, I had it down pat.

This will work

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Moto-Saw-Scroll-Saw-MS20-01/203899883?N=c67a#.UpdzXOKQMSE


----------



## lowfat

Are people afraid of filing or what? It doesn't really matter what you cut the tubing w/. Just spend 30 seconds filing it down afterward.


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are people afraid of filing or what? It doesn't really matter what you cut the tubing w/. Just spend 30 seconds filing it down afterward.


People just tend to over complicate things.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are people afraid of filing or what? It doesn't really matter what you cut the tubing w/. Just spend 30 seconds filing it down afterward.


So much this


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> People just tend to over complicate things.


I understand what you are saying. Keep it simple. I get that. But I have two left thumbs and am also OCD. I need ALL the help I can get. If there is a correct tool to do the job, or make it easier then I will get it! I literally cannot cut straight for the life of me no matter how slow I go or hard I try.

Purchased some more tubing and fittings from Frozen CPU. Used paypal. After placing the order, I noted that I had put the last digit of my post code (zip code) in wrong. Sigh. Of course it won't match my authenticated address with PayPal. Sent an email but no reply...... Now watching stock dry up! Sigh that's two big mistakes with orders in the last 2 weeks. I need holidays!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> [...] Purchased some more tubing and fittings from Frozen CPU. Used paypal. After placing the order, I noted that I had put the last digit of my post code (zip code) in wrong. Sigh. Of course it won't match my authenticated address with PayPal. Sent an email but no reply...... Now watching stock dry up! Sigh that's two big mistakes with orders in the last 2 weeks. I need holidays!


If you ever have a problem with FrozenCPU you should always call them up asap during their working hrs. In my experience they will fix whatever the problem is in no time at all.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Solonowarion*
> 
> People just tend to over complicate things.
> 
> 
> 
> I understand what you are saying. Keep it simple. I get that. But I have two left thumbs and am also OCD. I need ALL the help I can get. If there is a correct tool to do the job, or make it easier then I will get it! I literally cannot cut straight for the life of me no matter how slow I go or hard I try.
> 
> Purchased some more tubing and fittings from Frozen CPU. Used paypal. After placing the order, I noted that I had put the last digit of my post code (zip code) in wrong. Sigh. Of course it won't match my authenticated address with PayPal. Sent an email but no reply...... Now watching stock dry up! Sigh that's two big mistakes with orders in the last 2 weeks. I need holidays!
Click to expand...

They were talking about the other guy recommending a scroll saw for cut it,not you mate. That mitre box is a solid purchase.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Thank you Uni, no biggie but I live on the other side of the world, so will have to stay up very late to call them, which I will do.

B, I know it wasn't directed at me, but understand where they are coming from. I appreciate that in itself, it is not overly complicated and whether you use items that are readily available from household containers to small saws to buying the gear from monsoon and primochill, the results can still wildly differ , which is what makes it so different and rewarding to see.

Again I thank you all for helping me so far, answering my questions and offering solutions, I really am grateful.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are people afraid of filing or what? It doesn't really matter what you cut the tubing w/. Just spend 30 seconds filing it down afterward.


No more than people are afraid of drill press instead an electric drill instead or even a hand drill .... simply depends on the level of precision you are comfortable with and how much time ya want it to take ya to do it. .... I don't find pencils scary......can do math with a pencil and paper but will use calculator if it's handy for speed and more consistent results ..... and for repetitive stuff a spreadsheet is even better.

I used the Hand Saw from the EK kit and it would take me maybe 45 seconds to do a cut with some frustration when it would hang..... the scroll saw does in in about 4-5 seconds..... and I can hold the tube with both hands and keep that almost perfect 90.

The reamer was $11 ..... a hand file runs about $6 ..... If you reposition the hand file 8 times you don't have a circle, you make an octagon ... the reamer makes a perfect circular cut even and with 1/10th the effort and time. The reamer also lets ya get the inside edge....while ya don't need a chamfer there, I found it useful for removing a few burrs from cutting.

A reamer works .... a file works ..... sandpaper works .... only difference is how long it takes and the level of precision in the results..... my approach is use the best tool ya can easily lay ya hands on.


----------



## lowfat

If you want absolute perfect length runs you'll need to be doing a lot of filing anyways. It took me 10 hours to plumb my Lian Li. I bet a solid 4 hours of that was adjusting lengths and filing. You can get a perfectly smooth and circle end if you are using the right size file. You aren't going to go to the saw everytime you need to cut 1-2mm off the tubing. But maybe not everyone is as OCD as they claim.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I found a caliper a very handy tool too.... still, I started out measuring....cut it 2-3mm longer and dremel ground it down 1mm or 1/2 mm at time .....after a few thio, I just started going for it and would hit it on the button on 1st try........in one case I courted disaster.... one run was longer than than my caliper .... 4 mm....so I applied the tape ..... made the mark .... and then cut 4mm on wrong side of mark.....didn't realize error till filling. I made cuts down to 3-4mm where I had a tube length handy and it was just few mm longer than I needed....was ez on the scroll saw..... the one bit of laziness that caught me twice .... I didn't tape the cut.

Not only does using tape make for a nice place to mark...... it also:

1. Keeps a good part of the dust on the sticky part
2. Cuts down on burres and eliminates chipping when ya just have that last strand connected
3. Cushions the tube against the saw base or whatever ya cutting on.*

That's the one downside to a power tool .... while blade never gets stuck, sometimes it will bind and lift up the tube smashing it down on next stroke against the base. If y take ya time and give smooth feed it won't happen but ya can feel the lesser vibration when ya have tube wrapped w/ tape.

I used this, trying to get the 2" width centered on where I thot cut measurement would wind up

Was almost a buck cheaper at local hardware store but since I had a big order just saved myself the gas and bought at frozen.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14493/too-40/2_x_180_Modding_Masking_Tape.html

After 4 days on DW tho, heating up / cooling down, I found thinks shifted a bit ..... removed 3 lines, made two of them 1-2mm shorter....made one 4 mm longer. First time I matched the location of the right side of GFX cards (which as we know tend to hand a bit from the weight)..... re-cut that tube after building two "posts" outta spate tube to support the card till it ran even in the slot.



Now after giving my fingertips a rest from all those knurled fittings, prolly start sleeving on Sunday.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm glad you like it Jack, but I physically cringe every time I see all those fittings like that. I know you had your reasons, you say, but it just screams that someone went and spent what, $200?, on a bunch of gawdy elbows because they were too chicken to do any bending.

That's what makes acrylic so attractive IMHO, is the beautiful bends and not having to waste all that money on ugly & expensive rotaries. But I guess that's just me. To each their own. I'm glad you like it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm glad you like it Jack, but I physically cringe every time I see all those fittings like that. I know you had your reasons, you say, but it just screams that someone went and spent what, $200?, on a bunch of gawdy elbows because they were too chicken to do any bending.
> 
> That's what makes acrylic so attractive IMHO, is the beautiful bends and not having to waste all that money on ugly & expensive rotaries. But I guess that's just me. To each their own. I'm glad you like it.


Actually I like both and can not decide which way I will do it. I actually think the use of the fitting looks better but having no fittings shows better craftsmanship!! but to each there own!!


----------



## IT Diva

I think a lot depends on the overall look of the build as to which looks better . . .

In a black case with an "industrial" looking build, the fittings with straight tube runs fits in nicely with the overall look.

In a lighter colored case with something other than black fittings, I like the bent tubing a lot better, gives it a cleaner more "artsy" / open look.

What really does look bad, is multiple extensions end to end with all the joints showing, . . .

If you need more than 1 extension, you could have used tube.

Darlene


----------



## kingchris




----------



## seross69

that looks so good Chris!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Wow that's beautiful.

So, what kind of temps to you get using Coopers Pale Ale as a coolant?


----------



## lowfat

Very nicely done.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> that looks so good Chris!!!!!!!!!!!!


thanks glad you like it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Wow that's beautiful.
> 
> So, what kind of temps to you get using Coopers Pale Ale as a coolant?


i will let you know tomorrow









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Very nicely done.


thank you


----------



## robert1978

Your build looks really nice. Great JOB!!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Some of the lines have funky angles but all in all? A very tidy job in a small space,good stuff.


----------



## kingchris

thanks guys, i know with the angles, i pre formed the bends, then changed to different fittings and all the heights where off


----------



## JohnnyEars

I picked up a second 670 FTW cheap, so added a second Aquacomputer kryographics 680 block and a few odds and ends


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm glad you like it Jack, but I physically cringe every time I see all those fittings like that. I know you had your reasons, you say, but it just screams that someone went and spent what, $200?, on a bunch of gawdy elbows because they were too chicken to do any bending.
> 
> That's what makes acrylic so attractive IMHO, is the beautiful bends and not having to waste all that money on ugly & expensive rotaries. But I guess that's just me. To each their own. I'm glad you like it.


Again..... I upgraded my heat gun cause original plan was to do bending but after studying more and more builds in build logs here and in the pipe bending threads I, saw a lot of things that were pretty ....some too much so, but after picturing the final result and laying it out in CAD, the theme and purpose of the entire build was completely lost.

Implying that anyone is "chicken" because they are going for a different look is a bit presumptuous don't ya think ? Would be akin to saying everyone who bends is just "too cheap to buy fittings"

To me, it's all about meeting goals...... As everyone has different goals, no person's build will ideally suit another. If that wasn't the case, we'd all have Dell's. It had nothing to do with being "chicken" ..... no more than anyone doing steam punk theme is "afraid" of having clean smooth paint on their case.

I own an engineering consulting firm whose primary scope of work is plant design .... the goal of the build was to be a reflection of what we do, after all it was the business that footed the bill for it. ...... This machine will be sitting on desk in my office and when I have clients there I want them to be reminded of the care and precision in the work we do. We design waste water treatment systems and power system and the build was specifically designed to be a reflection of that.

It's also one of the reasons why I piped the GFX cards separately ....1. To get identical flow thu the units....no engineer would ever use a block or crystal link type device which fed different flows or different temp coolant to identical units 2. To get an "interesting" fitting arrangement right out there dead center .... I had envisioned mirrored Y fittings but laying length was too long on expansion slot side

I agonized a bit over the additional cost but the all acrylic look just screamed "form over function" .... of course neither choice has an effect on performance (well little bit maybe, do get some extra cooling from metal fittings), but the all acrylic just had a "look" to it that it was "more about "show than go" ....something I specifically tried to avoid in an "industrial look" build.

Getting back to the "theme".....like a steam punk build where the design is intended to make things look old, worn, damaged even "post apocalyptic", the goal here was to make it look like one of the plants we design and build. The most prevalent thing ya see in any plant are piping with hundreds of fittings (represented by tubes and fittings) , heavy duty pumping equipment (represented by the 35x2), hazardous materials and fuel storage tanks (represented by the reservoir), engine cooling systems (represented by the rads).

Now for my son's build which we have started planning ..... assuming he will be gainfully employed come May and no longer living on the typical college fare of Ramen Noodle Soup and Kraft Macaroni and Cheese .... He's a math wiz..... will prolly wind up in back room on Wall Street somewhere so the puter will be home and used primarily for gaming. He has case (hasn't yet decided which) and MoBo (so far wants M6F) on his Xmas list ...we have enough spare storage / optical devices laying around so he's starting to save for rads, pumps and res..... which he'll prolly have after XMas and B'day presents cash in.

Almost bought him that Enthoo last night for that $174 ..... hope to have the basic build done by end of winter break with water cooling on CPU .... the twin GFX cards will have to wait until he's gainfully employed. Rather than being "chicken" ...... we are both looking forward to the experience....nice part (well for him) I already bought all the tools ..... silicon tube bending inserts, saws, reamer. heat gun already in toolbox ..... and the jig I designed is waaay better than Monsoon's new kit. Actually there is one thing I'm afraid of..... I hope I finish sleeving this build before we have to start on his.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> In a black case with an "industrial" looking build, the fittings with straight tube runs fits in nicely with the overall look
> 
> If you need more than 1 extension, you could have used tube.
> Darlene


The "industrial" look was certainly the goal here since was meant to reflect our business ..... have to find some pics from one of my plants ..... though piping at plant is color coded to industry standards .... lotta "blah green" as I call it, mixed with yellow (gas) , blue (water), orange (chemical feed), gray (waste water) and brown (sludge)......not a look I was willing to imitate









I wish they had an angle fitting that went tube to tube, as it stands, to make a 90 degree bend ya need 3 fitting (and almost $30) per bend when going tube to tube .... took me while to figure that out







..... with each 90 going tube to tube ya need C47 on one end and a C68 on the other.....would have liked to avoid those "double knurls" if it was possible.

I used multiple extensions only the one place it where it would be unwise to use acrylic. The drain port under the bottom rad where some torque is required to get the quick disconnect on and off ..... Off the 90 outta the rad, ya need a male by male to get started and that only comes in a 10mm ....a 40mm after that wuda been perfect, but I had a spare 30mm and a 10mm..... wouldn't have been comfortable doing the "twist on / twist off" thing on acrylic tube run.

Two rotary 90s or two 45's tho are real nice for getting perfect alignment as you can rotate them into perfect plumb lines .... technique borrowed from the Singlarity Computers guy on youtube whop uses it a lot.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Well done really impressive and great space utilization, I'm wanting to learn how to bend acrylic for my next build


----------



## Kurodragon

How would you deal with draining the loop. For regular tubing, you can just use QDCs but I'm not sure how I would do it with more rigid tubing.



I'm trying to find ways to add easy draining to the loop I had planned since I'm thinking of switching to acrylic.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> How would you deal with draining the loop. For regular tubing, you can just use QDCs but I'm not sure how I would do it with more rigid tubing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to find ways to add easy draining to the loop I had planned since I'm thinking of switching to acrylic.


Not sure what tube res you're wanting to use, but assuming it would have an extra, otherwise unused, port at the bottom, you could attach a 90 deg rotary facing down with a mini-valve attached to it, and then a stop plug. When you want to drain, remove the stop plug, attach a short piece of flexible tubing mounted on a barb, and open the valve. It would help a lot if you have a top-facing port on that rad at the top that you can put a short extension in to be able to open up to use as a fill / vent port, but if you're going with a 480 rad in that enthoo primo that would probably require drilling a hole for it.


----------



## Kurodragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not sure what tube res you're wanting to use, but assuming it would have an extra, otherwise unused, port at the bottom, you could attach a 90 deg rotary facing down with a mini-valve attached to it, and then a stop plug. When you want to drain, remove the stop plug, attach a short piece of flexible tubing mounted on a barb, and open the valve. It would help a lot if you have a top-facing port on that rad at the top that you can put a short extension in to be able to open up to use as a fill / vent port, but if you're going with a 480 rad in that enthoo primo that would probably require drilling a hole for it.


Looks like I can do that with this res (EK MultiOpton X3), thanks.

Do I still need to use the top rad if I can just use the top port on the res?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> How would you deal with draining the loop. For regular tubing, you can just use QDCs but I'm not sure how I would do it with more rigid tubing.
> 
> I'm trying to find ways to add easy draining to the loop I had planned since I'm thinking of switching to acrylic.


Ya can see mine in the Enthoo (pic in Post No. 1267 in this thread) in the bottom right.... just barely ....little silver circle between bottom rad and panel with phanteks label.....drained system twice already

If ya going to add a bottom rad .....



That's a UT60-280 mounted on the Phanteks mounting plate. If ya go that way .... parts required for drain

Under Rad part
Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14)
Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)
Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 40mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C64)
Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)
Loctite Blue (on all but the 90 int rad connection)

On the part ya connect only when draining
Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)
Bitspower G1/4 Female to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C74)
Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Rotary Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBRCPF-CC2)
Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027)

Those QD's require quite a bid of "twisting" to get on and off hence why I had to make late nite trip to HW store to get the Loctite. So you are right to be concerned about not having it on an acrylic line.

But since you don't a syet have a Rad down there....save that for later

My Option No.2 was from the other side of the case.... I have a 35x2 mounted where you show your pump and it has an "alternate inlet"..... If that's what you are using, form there you could simply use a 90 bend and female QD

This one has alternate ports also look slike

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17644/ex-pmp-220/Alphacool_HF_D5_Top_-_Black_Acetal_w_Swiftech_MCP655-PWM_Pump_Installed.html?tl=c107s153b33

Seems many pump tops offer additional ports

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13150/ex-pmp-134/Alphacool_Laing_DDC_MCP35x_Series_Pump_Top_-_Acrylic_.html?tl=g30c107s1806

"I'd definitely want it screwed into something that is screwed down and can't move.

Other suggestions fir the Enthoo ....

1. If ya haven't bought the Rad yet, consider a 420 over the 480 .... by sliding it forwad a bit the XT45-420 gives ya extra air bleed and fill ports, a little more cooling then the 480 and works with the Phanteks fans. Im at 10C with just pull fans under stress testing with a 420 and a 280.

2. I think you will find the rear mount for ya res a bit tight .... w/ WBs , ya can use res mount bracket w./ SLI for up to 10.5 cards which includes even non reference 780s (I'm using Asus DCIIs).

3. Install ya CPU block with holes vertical instead of horizontal ...testing has shown better results that way

There's a dimensional drawing for the Enthoo in post # 1000 here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/990#post_21100122

along witha pic of the 420 rad mounting ports I spoke of earlier in post 996

I have that res (250mm version) .... it wouldn't fit at the location you have show (width issue) and I would not put a drain on it with a QD. The spring in those QDs is pretty strong and the O-rings are very tight. I find myself holding the female QD in one hand and the case in the other as the pressure required to put on wud knock case over.....if ya did a valve that would be ok....put a plug on back end of valve , remove when ya wanna drain and screw in a compression fitting attached to a tube.

Also .... you'll need a multiport top for that res to feed from top as well as a 12/16 fill tube

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17769/ex-res-460/EK_X3_Reservoir_Replacement_Top_EK-RES_X3_-_Multiport_TOP.html?tl=c615s1884b133
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_1165_1162&products_id=36310


----------



## Kurodragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Ya can see mine in the Enthoo (pic in Post No. 1267 in this thread) in the bottom right.... just barely ....little silver circle between bottom rad and panel with phanteks label.....drained system twice already
> 
> If ya going to add a bottom rad .....
> 
> 
> 
> That's a UT60-280 mounted on the Phanteks mounting plate. If ya go that way .... parts required for drain
> 
> Under Rad part
> Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Male w/ Inner G1/4 (BP-MBQDMIG14)
> Bitspower Dual G1/4" Male / Male Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C08)
> Bitspower G1/4 Male to Female Extender - 40mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C64)
> Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)
> Loctite Blue (on all but the 90 int rad connection)
> 
> On the part ya connect only when draining
> Bitspower Matte Black Quick-Disconnected Female w/ G1/4 Thread (BP-MBQDFG14)
> Bitspower G1/4 Female to Female Extender - 30mm - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C74)
> Bitspower G1/4 Thread 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD Rotary Compression Fitting - Matte Black (BP-MBRCPF-CC2)
> Tygon 2475 Ultra Chemical Resistant Plasticizer Free Tubing - 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - Clear (ACG00027)
> 
> Those QD's require quite a bid of "twisting" to get on and off hence why I had to make late nite trip to HW store to get the Loctite. So you are right to be concerned about not having it on an acrylic line.
> 
> But since you don't a syet have a Rad down there....save that for later
> 
> My Option No.2 was from the other side of the case.... I have a 35x2 mounted where you show your pump and it has an "alternate inlet"..... If that's what you are using, form there you could simply use a 90 bend and female QD
> 
> This one has alternate ports also look slike
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17644/ex-pmp-220/Alphacool_HF_D5_Top_-_Black_Acetal_w_Swiftech_MCP655-PWM_Pump_Installed.html?tl=c107s153b33
> 
> Seems many pump tops offer additional ports
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13150/ex-pmp-134/Alphacool_Laing_DDC_MCP35x_Series_Pump_Top_-_Acrylic_.html?tl=g30c107s1806
> 
> "I'd definitely want it screwed into something that is screwed down and can't move.
> 
> Other suggestions fir the Enthoo ....
> 
> 1. If ya haven't bought the Rad yet, consider a 420 over the 480 .... by sliding it forwad a bit the XT45-420 gives ya extra air bleed and fill ports, a little more cooling then the 480 and works with the Phanteks fans. Im at 10C with just pull fans under stress testing with a 420 and a 280.
> 
> 2. I think you will find the rear mount for ya res a bit tight .... w/ WBs , ya can use res mount bracket w./ SLI for up to 10.5 cards which includes even non reference 780s (I'm using Asus DCIIs).
> 
> 3. Install ya CPU block with holes vertical instead of horizontal ...testing has shown better results that way
> 
> There's a dimensional drawing for the Enthoo in post # 1000 here
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1418637/phanteks-enthoo-primo-owners-club/990#post_21100122
> 
> along witha pic of the 420 rad mounting ports I spoke of earlier in post 996


Very helpful comment! Thanks.

I think I'll go for the 420 on top instead of the 480 to give me that extra room like you said. I haven't bought any parts yet, but want to this weekend while FrozenCPU has free shipping + BF discount.

Unfortunately, I'll have to take out of the reservoir mounting bracket because the 780 Ti Classy is apparently 11 inches long (even though many sites say 10.5), but I do not know about the Kingpin Edition (It may be overpriced but worth looking at if it's not TOO expensive), so that's why I chose the rear mount for the res.

Basically, I could buy that Alphacool pump + top (I was planning on buying a Swiftech MCP655 with PWM anyway), and use an alternate port for draining?


----------



## capchaos




----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurodragon*
> 
> Very helpful comment! Thanks.
> 
> I think I'll go for the 420 on top instead of the 480 to give me that extra room like you said. I haven't bought any parts yet, but want to this weekend while FrozenCPU has free shipping + BF discount.


I also went with the white res to break up all that black. .... if I did it over today wuda done the alpha 420 and 280 in white too.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Getting runs parallel with bends in is a PITA, spent about an hour getting these two to work nicely.


----------



## Inviso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Getting runs parallel with bends in is a PITA, spent about an hour getting these two to work nicely.


That is why I am impatiently waiting for the monsoon kit to see if it works much better in plotting and planning and bending. I really have gone past the point of function to the point where I'm getting kind of anal about form. And the only reason I haven't bought a bigger case to make the parts I have work super nice is because I'm stubborn and know I can do it, it will just take a bit of patience and dedication.


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

Holy Smokes Gardener! That's amazing!


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> Holy Smokes Gardener! That's amazing!


Thanks, the tricky part with that was making it look parallel from all angles as the two pipes arent side by side, one is set further back.


----------



## kingchris

great bends man


----------



## seross69

Information on when we can purchase the monsoon sets

Monsoon told me the below tonight.
Quote:


> they are packaged and ready to ship but I am working on getting the video done so people are not stranded with something they are not sure how to use


Quote:


> They should be shipping next week, (7 to 10 days to have them in stock).


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Information on when we can purchase the monsoon sets
> 
> Monsoon told me the below tonight.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> they are packaged and ready to ship but I am working on getting the video done so people are not stranded with something they are not sure how to use
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> They should be shipping next week, (7 to 10 days to have them in stock).
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Information on when we can purchase the monsoon sets
> 
> Monsoon told me the below tonight.


Does that mean Performance PC's and or Frozen CPU will get them in that time????

I too am impatiently waiting either for the monsoon set or the primochill kit.

I have mostly everything in the monsoon kit as far as tools are concerned, but really want/need the mandrels and the little mitre box.

Have not received a reply from the above E-Tailers yet.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## seross69

said 7 to 10 days to have in stock!!! So i would think they would be on sale in the shops at that time....


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> said 7 to 10 days to have in stock!!! So i would think they would be on sale in the shops at that time....


Awesome. Although I think that postage/freight is going to be a big killer for living in Australia!!

All depends on size and weight.

I have been refreshing the Frozen CPU and Performance PC's sites, but not sure where they would list the items such as "bending" kits anyway.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Awesome. Although I think that postage/freight is going to be a big killer for living in Australia!!
> 
> All depends on size and weight.
> 
> *I have been refreshing the Frozen CPU and Performance PC's sites, but not sure where they would list the items such as "bending" kits anyway.*
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


Not sure about PPC, but at Frozen I suspect they'll probably show up first as a 'New Products' listing, and then in the 'Rigid Tubing Tools' section.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not sure about PPC, but at Frozen I suspect they'll probably show up first as a 'New Products' listing, and then in the 'Rigid Tubing Tools' section.


Well there you go a "Rigid Tubing Tools" section at Frozen CPU









Thank you for that. I had not noticed that section before, only found the tools listed as separate items when looking at other components.

Hitting F5 as we speak and throwing money at my screen, not working though


----------



## IT Diva

Strange, . . . .

It works every time here . .

If I get anywhere near the screen with money .

It gets instantly sucked out of my hand.

Obviously, my death grip is no match for the money sucking vacuum of pc modding









Darlene


----------



## ugotd8

Anyone have a good cross section shot of how the primochill fittings work ? I can't get my head around how these fittings don't leak. Is the key in chamfering the tubing ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Anyone have a good cross section shot of how the primochill fittings work ? I can't get my head around how these fittings don't leak. Is the key in chamfering the tubing ?


The Primochill fittings are compression fittings, and work pretty much like a regular compression fitting. You don't need to clean up the ends much if at all for them, not like you do for the push-fit fittings. I sure didn't and in my test runs so far haven't seen any leaks. I just kind of cleaned the ends up with my fingers to knock the dust/straggling pieces off of there. lol! I did use a piece of sandpaper for a few of the pieces, about 5 seconds worth of spinning it around the end if that, but decided that was pretty much unnecessary for the most part.

Here's the best image I could find. Not a cross section, but you should get the gist ...



The o-ring gets compressed against the tube pretty far away from the end, so it's not really necessary imho to have such a clean cut on the end or do much prep to it besides make sure it's cleaned up of dust/debris & get the length cut right. That's the important thing.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Anyone have a good cross section shot of how the primochill fittings work ? I can't get my head around how these fittings don't leak. Is the key in chamfering the tubing ?


The key is screwing down the collar so that it compresses the O ring into the tapered seat, sealing the OD of the tube to the ID of the fitting main section.

The chamfer on the tube is just to be sure it doesn't nick the O ring as you insert it.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Nice little find here;

I'm cross posting this from the WC thread, as it may be helpful here in particular

For you guys using 1/2" X 3/8" imperial tubing, whether Primochill or from McMaster etc. . . .

I found the near perfect insert cord for bending . . .

It doesn't seem as tight and "iffy" as the Primochill insert.

Its Buna N rubber, not silicone, so it isn't as burn proof, but it works fine at bending temps if you don't try to melt the tube.

It's 8.5mm metric O-ring cord stock, which is 0.354" dia. . . . Just enough under 3/8" to push in easily and get it out again.

McMaster Carr part number: 9679K27 It comes in various lengths from 3' to 100'. . . . . $1.38 per foot,

I got a 10' length to experiment with.

Couple pics below of a quick small radius U-bend, and the cord pushed thru a short scrap and also all the way thru a full 6' length.

I found this cord to swell a bit more with heat, so I needed to let the bend get cold and the cord to cool as well before pulling it out easily.

Would be nice if some of you tried it and gave feedback.

Darlene


----------



## DaaQ

What was tightest bend radius you could get with it?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> What was tightest bend radius you could get with it?


That was just a quick test bend.

The heatgun is in my electronics bench area, so I just bent the scrap of tube around a capacitor sitting on the bench that was handy, about 1.25" diameter.

So about a 5/8 radius, or maybe slightly larger . . . .

Probably would have worked as well a little tighter.

I'll have to try a double bend in two planes to see how that goes fpr pulling the cord out.

Darlene


----------



## DaaQ

How about the imperial cord stock, is the master carr stuff either too tight or too loose?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> How about the imperial cord stock, is the master carr stuff either too tight or too loose?


Shouldn't make a difference what brand, or did you mean imperial measurement, like 3/8"?

Imperial measure O ring cross section is slightly larger than it's nominal measurement.

Metric O ring cross section is exactly what its size says.

You can't get 3/8" cord or O ring stock in a 3/8" ID tube.

8.5mm is .354" dia. and goes in fine with no wiggle, but was a bit snug coming out after the bend.

I'll also try some 8mm, which would be .335" dia. next time I order from McMaster to see if it's a little slicker for compound bends.

Darlene


----------



## seross69

Also if you put a little silicone on the cord this helps also... something like *this*

I would just use a Q-tip with a small amount on it and put a couple of dots on the cord then it will go in and slide out a lot quicker...


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shouldn't make a difference what brand, or did you mean imperial measurement, like 3/8"?
> 
> Imperial measure O ring cross section is slightly larger than it's nominal measurement.
> 
> Metric O ring cross section is exactly what its size says.
> 
> You can't get 3/8" cord or O ring stock in a 3/8" ID tube.
> 
> 8.5mm is .354" dia. and goes in fine with no wiggle, but was a bit snug coming out after the bend.
> 
> I'll also try some 8mm, which would be .335" dia. next time I order from McMaster to see if it's a little slicker for compound bends.
> 
> Darlene


Yea I meant the measurement.
Have you tried the 5/16 size silicone at all? I imagine that the metric would be more snug to prevent flattening. I may try some out.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Also if you put a little silicone on the cord this helps also... something like *this*
> 
> I would just use a Q-tip with a small amount on it and put a couple of dots on the cord then it will go in and slide out a lot quicker...


I'm a lot more partial to using a little powder, (talc) on the cord because it rinses out so cleanly with no hint of residue.

Darlene


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Shouldn't make a difference what brand, or did you mean imperial measurement, like 3/8"?
> 
> Imperial measure O ring cross section is slightly larger than it's nominal measurement.
> 
> Metric O ring cross section is exactly what its size says.
> 
> You can't get 3/8" cord or O ring stock in a 3/8" ID tube.
> 
> 8.5mm is .354" dia. and goes in fine with no wiggle, but was a bit snug coming out after the bend.
> 
> I'll also try some 8mm, which would be .335" dia. next time I order from McMaster to see if it's a little slicker for compound bends.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Yea I meant the measurement.
> Have you tried the 5/16 size silicone at all? I imagine that the metric would be more snug to prevent flattening. I may try some out.
Click to expand...

5/16" is wayyy to small for bending 3/8 tube, you'd get major collapse and flat spots.

The metric size 8mm and 8.5mm are the perfect "tweeners" . . .

Unfortunately, McMaster doesn't have those sizes in silicone.

Darlene


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Also if you put a little silicone on the cord this helps also... something like *this*
> 
> I would just use a Q-tip with a small amount on it and put a couple of dots on the cord then it will go in and slide out a lot quicker...


I used dish soap. Really easy to clean off.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I used dish soap. Really easy to clean off.


it could work but also the heat could make it sticky also!! be careful of this.. I would not recommend using soap because like I said when it gets hot it can get tacky and might cause the cord to stick..

Just my 2







I know it would be easy to clean...


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> it could work but also the heat could make it sticky also!! be careful of this.. I would not recommend using soap because like I said when it gets hot it can get tacky and might cause the cord to stick..
> 
> Just my 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know it would be easy to clean...


No problems with heat and soap for me. I even had it in a double bend and it pushed in and pulled out just fine


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FWIW, I had asked waay back in this thread about Primochill's suggestion to use Olive oil to help with the insert, and that was pretty well shot down, and the suggestion to use soap came up too, and here's a just a couple quotes about that ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get a small tube of silicone grease and just smear the end of the tube,Dish soap isnt really recommended.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Soap might have oil as a raw material, and might contain an oily emollient (to make your hands soft), but chemically the _soap itself is a salt_. You can use soap safely on acrylic if you wash it away after, but not as a lubricant. I can think of three reasons not to use dish soap: 1) it will damage O-rings; 2) it might contain scouring particles which will mark your acrylic; and 3) white soap can contain titanium or aluminium oxide particles which might accelerate galvanic corrosion.
> 
> Silicone grease is an oil. It's a useful lubricant in water cooling because it's a non-biological oil, so it won't swell O-rings or become food for any bacteria.


Anywho, following that discussion, I have used a _tiny tiny tiny_ dab of silicone lubricant (McNett Aquaseal) on the end of my primochill cord a couple times, and I also occasionally tug on it a bit to stretch it out whenever it seems like the piece I'm fitting into is a little tight, and I haven't any problems pushing it in or pulling it out since.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FWIW, I had asked waay back in this thread about Primochill's suggestion to use Olive oil to help with the insert, and that was pretty well shot down, and the suggestion to use soap came up too, and here's a just a couple quotes about that ...
> 
> Anywho, following that discussion, I have used a _tiny tiny tiny_ dab of silicone lubricant (McNett Aquaseal) on the end of my primochill cord a couple times, and I also occasionally tug on it a bit to stretch it out whenever it seems like the piece I'm fitting into is a little tight, and I haven't any problems pushing it in or pulling it out since.


I commented on that as well. That discussion was about orings. Not the silicon tube insert. I used silicon on my orings to keep them from getting damaged when inserting the tube. I used soap on the silicon tube for ease of making my bends. Soap rinses clean. Silicon does not. With my orings I did not contaminate the inside of the tube with silicon.

You can use as much soap as you want since it will be rinsed out. I don't know if silicon will hurt anything. I just didn't want it inside my tubes 'just in case'.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I used dish soap. Really easy to clean off.


I use a water soluble personal lube (AstroGlide) didn't have any issues with it heating up and sticking and it rinsed cleanly. I did get funny looks from my wife when I bought it but it did the job very well.


----------



## Ninhalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I used dish soap. Really easy to clean off.
> 
> 
> 
> I use a water soluble personal lube (AstroGlide) didn't have any issues with it heating up and sticking and it rinsed cleanly. I did get funny looks from my wife when I bought it but it did the job very well.
Click to expand...

This is genius!


----------



## Radmanhs

just wondering, what brands of tubing do you guys like to use and do you have to replace this stuff like regular flexible tubing?


----------



## dropxo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nice little find here;
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm cross posting this from the WC thread, as it may be helpful here in particular
> 
> For you guys using 1/2" X 3/8" imperial tubing, whether Primochill or from McMaster etc. . . .
> 
> I found the near perfect insert cord for bending . . .
> 
> It doesn't seem as tight and "iffy" as the Primochill insert.
> 
> Its Buna N rubber, not silicone, so it isn't as burn proof, but it works fine at bending temps if you don't try to melt the tube.
> 
> It's 8.5mm metric O-ring cord stock, which is 0.354" dia. . . . Just enough under 3/8" to push in easily and get it out again.
> 
> McMaster Carr part number: 9679K27 It comes in various lengths from 3' to 100'. . . . . $1.38 per foot,
> 
> I got a 10' length to experiment with.
> 
> Couple pics below of a quick small radius U-bend, and the cord pushed thru a short scrap and also all the way thru a full 6' length.
> 
> I found this cord to swell a bit more with heat, so I needed to let the bend get cold and the cord to cool as well before pulling it out easily.
> 
> Would be nice if some of you tried it and gave feedback.
> 
> Darlene


I mentioned it as alternative back in post http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/300_20#post_20534631 it was a much better fit for my tube i got the 9.5mm size and it works perfectly for my tube without lube, no flat spots, no marking. As good as silicone in my opinion.


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering, what brands of tubing do you guys like to use and do you have to replace this stuff like regular flexible tubing?


E22 or EK or if you are in the US you might use Primochill rigid tubing. And no you dont need to replace as often because it does not contain plasticiser.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering, what brands of tubing do you guys like to use and do you have to replace this stuff like regular flexible tubing?
> 
> 
> 
> E22 or EK or if you are in the US you might use Primochill rigid tubing. And no you dont need to replace as often because it does not contain plasticiser.
Click to expand...

Any 12mm OD tube will work,the primochill tube is imperial and requires primochill fittings to work.
The 12mm tube will work with Bitspower,EK and 12mm pushfit fittings.

Its all in the OP.

As for replacement/maintainence,it should last the life of the rig.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering, what brands of tubing do you guys like to use and do you have to replace this stuff like regular flexible tubing?


It's pretty much determined by what fittings you choose..... if you want a wide selection of fittings bends, quick disconnects, wye's, etc., you are going to be using Bitspower and that pretty much limits you to EK and E22 metric dimensioned products ...at least in the US .....there's may sources in Europe that sell it much cheaper.

With fitting choices limited for the American dimensioned (fractional inches) products, you will be doing a lot more bending as choices are much more limited fittings wise.


----------



## D33G33

I tested out my 3D printed mandrel last night and amazingly... it doesn't melt at all.

It was my very first attempt and I cooked the absolute life out of the tube but the plastic will hold up no problems.

The initial radius is 17mm which I feel may be too tight. I'm going to change this to 22-25mm. @ 17mm I tested a full 180 degree bend but it ripples on the inside, this could however be due to my technique.

Ignore the blatant burning of the Primochill tube... like I said, first time... Also the tube cracked in my bag on the way to work this morning it WAS fine...




I did take a video as I did it because I assumed it would just turn into a molten mess... However I had a power outage last night so didn't get to upload.


----------



## lowfat

About how much money would that much ABS material be worth?


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> About how much money would that much ABS material be worth?


We pay about $19 per kg and its pretty much what you put in is what you get out.

I'm trying to guess what this weighs, its deceptively light... maybe around 60grams?


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> I tested out my 3D printed mandrel last night and amazingly... it doesn't melt at all.
> 
> It was my very first attempt and I cooked the absolute life out of the tube but the plastic will hold up no problems.
> 
> The initial radius is 17mm which I feel may be too tight. I'm going to change this to 22-25mm. @ 17mm I tested a full 180 degree bend but it ripples on the inside, this could however be due to my technique.


Try bending it slowly. Dont force it at all. Lite consistent pressure works well. And dont over or under heat.


----------



## D33G33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Try bending it slowly. Dont force it at all. Lite consistent pressure works well. And dont over or under heat.


Roger thanks,

When I heated it slowly and made a partial bend I had the trouble when I went to reheat it I would straighten out the bend during heating. Am I just being ******ed?


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Roger thanks,
> 
> When I heated it slowly and made a partial bend I had the trouble when I went to reheat it I would straighten out the bend during heating. Am I just being ******ed?


Yeah it did that on mine as well. I just held the bend in place as best as I could. You just gotta keep spinning it to heat evenly. wear gloves


----------



## friskiest

Just thought I'd share this..

Bitspower C47s are only $3.99 at Sidewinder, whereas most other places have them going for $10.90-11.90 for a set of two.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishmuad1.html

I suppose this mostly benefits the members who reside in the US, but a dollar saved is a dollar saved.

Happy bending


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Just thought I'd share this..
> 
> Bitspower C47s are only $3.99 at Sidewinder, whereas most other places have them going for $10.90-11.90 for a set of two.
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1sishmuad1.html
> 
> I suppose this mostly benefits the members who reside in the US, but a dollar saved is a dollar saved.
> 
> Happy bending


thanks for this yes this does save us some money. they are 11.50 for 2 at PPC so that is 5.25 each versus 4 dollars. thanks for this..


----------



## B NEGATIVE

New tube from Bitspower,12mm OD,fits C47s,48's and the new ML fittings plus any 12mm pushfit.

Good news for the US,all major stockists should hold this so it will be freely available for a change!



http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_19&products_id=3234&zenid=14e664d802c0d9342ba5aee69d061044

Only up to a max of 200mm right now but this could change,200mm does make it easier to ship and it not get destroyed tho.

If anyone purchases this then report back to this thread with your opinions?


----------



## lowfat

I really like the new compression fittings. If I didn't already have a million Primochill ones + tube I'd give the Bitspower a try. I really wish they would sell tubing in a bit longer sizes. I do like the 24" standard lengths that Primochill sells in. It gives me a bit more play and room for error.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I really like the new compression fittings. If I didn't already have a million Primochill ones + tube I'd give the Bitspower a try. I really wish they would sell tubing in a bit longer sizes. I do like the 24" standard lengths that Primochill sells in. It gives me a bit more play and room for error.


I just messaged BP with exactly the same comment.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> New tube from Bitspower,12mm OD,fits C47s,48's and the new ML fittings plus any 12mm pushfit.
> 
> Only up to a max of 200mm right now but this could change,200mm does make it easier to ship and it not get destroyed tho.
> 
> If anyone purchases this then report back to this thread with your opinions?


I was annoyed enough with the 20" lengths, these 8Inch lengths will result in lotta waste .... I was frustrated enough that I have someone in UK working to ship me longer ones. UPS got back to me last week finally, their 36" mail tube that costs $5.16 to ship cross country (NY - California) apparently will cost $254 via UPS "to cross the pond".... it took 3 e-mail exchanges to get that as they "needed" the exact zip code for delivery and pick up (Birmingham to NY wasn't good enough) .... yea like the cost would vary a lot whether it went to one destination or another few blocks away from a few blocks away.....found it for like $2 a 6' tube in UK, just hard to get shipping costs from here, so friend in UK checking to do from his side. Heck, I got my reel of LED strip from China for $11.49 and free shipping.

E22 will ship longer ones for $40 .... no answer from EK.


----------



## D33G33

Here is my 3D Printed bending mandrel. I keep bubbling the tube, clearly too much heat but if I raise the tube any higher away from the source it doesn't seem to do anything. Maybe I can turn down the heat gun a bit.

At least the plastic doesn't melt!


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D33G33*
> 
> Here is my 3D Printed bending mandrel. I keep bubbling the tube, clearly too much heat but if I raise the tube any higher away from the source it doesn't seem to do anything. Maybe I can turn down the heat gun a bit.
> 
> At least the plastic doesn't melt!


I used high speed for a few seconds then low. Be patient and keep spinning. Your heating it up to fast and to close. Rotate and move side to side about 2 inches each way.


----------



## mobeious

just wasted 400mm of E22 ... i don't think acrylic tubing was meant to be put in a HAF XB


----------



## DaaQ

Bump for the new people asking about acrylic. Info in 1st post.


----------



## Radmanhs

just wondering how much would a basic system use? between 1 cpu, gpu, 2 rads, res, pump and a drain port


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering how much would a basic system use? between 1 cpu, gpu, 2 rads, res, pump and a drain port


How much what? tube/fittings? or?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering how much would a basic system use? between 1 cpu, gpu, 2 rads, res, pump and a drain port


I bought 3 packs of 2 x 19/5"..... have a full tube and about a tube's worth of short pieces left and I'm including 18" of 'fill tube" that only gets used when loop filled.


----------



## seross69

Has anyone tried these below?? I have ordered a few to see what they look like and how they will work



They are G 1/4 and come in the lengths shown in the picture..


----------



## Radmanhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> just wondering how much would a basic system use? between 1 cpu, gpu, 2 rads, res, pump and a drain port
> 
> 
> 
> How much what? tube/fittings? or?
Click to expand...

sorry, tubing


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Has anyone tried these below?? I have ordered a few to see what they look like and how they will work
> 
> 
> 
> They are G 1/4 and come in the lengths shown in the picture..


fast-fate has done a whole loop with male to male fittings using that tube,you can get it in far longer lengths than what your pic show also


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> fast-fate has done a whole loop with male to male fittings using that tube,you can get it in far longer lengths than what your pic show also


Where? Google fails me.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> fast-fate has done a whole loop with male to male fittings using that tube,you can get it in far longer lengths than what your pic show also


do you have a link to some pictures of this??


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> fast-fate has done a whole loop with male to male fittings using that tube,you can get it in far longer lengths than what your pic show also
> 
> 
> 
> Where? Google fails me.
Click to expand...

There are pics in this thread,look in the recent pic folder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I saw pics of a build in this thread a while back using that threaded tubing (though I just scoured the 'view all' and didn't see it). What I'm wondering is where is it available. I've googled and googled and googled for it. Nothing. I'd hoped using that "Dimentions" brand name (I assume that's what it was - or perhaps it was just a misspelling) would help. but it doesn't.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I saw pics of a build in this thread a while back using that threaded tubing (though I just scoured the 'view all' and didn't see it). What I'm wondering is where is it available. I've googled and googled and googled for it. Nothing. I'd hoped using that "Dimentions" brand name would help. but it doesn't.


PM fast fate and he can tell you more.


----------



## IT Diva

MODDIY shows it in stock.

You can get some lengths individually;

15, 20 30 mm and then the longer ones; 70, 80, 90, 100, 110. 120mm come as a set.

It's 18mm OD which is the same as Bitspower extensions.

http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Tubing/Acrylic-Tubing/

Darlene

Here's the link to Fast Fates build with these:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1435320/build-log-pipeline-tubes


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> MODDIY shows it in stock.
> 
> You can get some lengths individually;
> 
> 15, 20 30 mm and then the longer ones; 70, 80, 90, 100, 110. 120mm come as a set.
> 
> It's 18mm OD which is the same as Bitspower extensions.
> 
> http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Tubing/Acrylic-Tubing/
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Here's the link to Fast Fates build with these:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1435320/build-log-pipeline-tubes


Interesting Tube they have there...... with ID bigger than OD








Quote:


> Product Description
> 
> Measure - Cut - Bend - Install- DONE!
> 
> Material: Acrylic
> 
> Length: 500MM
> 
> ID: 1/2"
> 
> OD: 3/8"


14mm (0.55") ~ just under 9/16" (0.56")


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Information on when we can purchase the monsoon sets
> 
> Monsoon told me the below tonight.


Looking like 10 days or more at this stage. Been looking at Frozen CPU and Performance PC's every day, a few times a day and nothing. Sigh.

I know they say patience is a virtue, unfortunately I dont have it









Dammit.


----------



## korruptedkaos

haha B- NEG your avatar lol

you like the MINIONS lol

ive been thinking of making a MINION CLUB on here?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> haha B- NEG your avatar lol
> 
> you like the MINIONS lol
> 
> ive been thinking of making a MINION CLUB on here?


Do it,i will join for sure.


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do it,i will join for sure.


I just have


----------



## Gardnerphotos

When buying heat guns for acrylic pipe bending is there any real difference between the cheap ones and the more expensive ones? ie the £15 ones and the £40 ones?


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> When buying heat guns for acrylic pipe bending is there any real difference between the cheap ones and the more expensive ones? ie the £15 ones and the £40 ones?


The cheaper ones are usually fine. Just check the temp ranges. Preferably you get one with at least a high and low setting if not a more fine grain control one.

Mine was like $20-30, so that is towards the low end of your range you listed


----------



## Radmanhs

ok i got a question... the bending and all makes sense, but what about getting the perfect line up? such as if you bend it a couple of mm's off? how do you know you are exactly on point?


----------



## korruptedkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok i got a question... the bending and all makes sense, but what about getting the perfect line up? such as if you bend it a couple of mm's off? how do you know you are exactly on point?


its not as hard as you think really? its not absolute precise you make your first bend & when you come to do a second in a run, you hold in place mark where you want it & slowly work your second bend to its point?

you can play with it if its not right too?

the idea is to leave extra either side of your bends, then its just cut & fit!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> ok i got a question... the bending and all makes sense, but what about getting the perfect line up? such as if you bend it a couple of mm's off? how do you know you are exactly on point?


FWIW, I'm still in the 'practicing' phase as I haven't put my first acrylic loop together yet - still waiting on a few more pieces of hardware - but I have already went through a 6ft piece from mastercarr and a 2ft piece of primochill doing a whole bunch of bends and practice fitted them, and some of the pieces I will be using in my build. That out of the way just to be clear there are others here with a lot more experience than I have and may have a better way of doing it or explaining it than I.

I've found that you'll just be able to tell when it's even a little bit off. If the angle of a bend isn't perfect you can just heat it up again and adjust it pretty easily.

In most cases I've found it's best to leave the piece a bit longer than I need and then once I have the bend(s) just right then I can cut the ends to length. If you're doing a piece with multiple bends it gets trickier because the space between the bends will need to be just right, but you can still cut the ends to length afterwards.

My method is first bending the piece how I wanted, then put it up in place to see how long I need to trim the ends and then cut it just a little bit long anyway, and then sneak up on the proper length by sanding it down which for a few mm's takes seconds to do.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korruptedkaos*
> 
> its not as hard as you think really? its not absolute precise you make your first bend & when you come to do a second in a run, you hold in place mark where you want it & slowly work your second bend to its point?
> 
> you can play with it if its not right too?
> 
> the idea is to leave extra either side of your bends, then its just cut & fit!


More or less this.

Once you go through a couple bends you will get it down pretty good. Having a good former/jig is helpful in getting good consisten bends


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> In most cases I've found it's best to leave the piece a bit longer than I need and then once I have the bend(s) just right then I can cut the ends to length. If you're doing a piece with multiple bends it gets trickier because the space between the bends will need to be just right, but you can still cut the ends to length afterwards.
> 
> My method is first bending the piece how I wanted, then put it up in place to see how long I need to trim the ends and then cut it just a little bit long anyway, and then sneak up on the proper length by sanding it down which for a few mm's takes seconds to do.


This.

if you mess up the distance between the bends more than a couple of mm it is best to lay the piece aside and scrape it. Use it for another shorter bend if you can then go at it again. You will make mistakes and have scrap material. Assuming you want quality bends. I scraped 3 24" pieces when I did my first build. However I was able to use most of those scrape pieces for smaller runs on my second machine.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> This.
> 
> if you mess up the distance between the bends more than a couple of mm it is best to lay the piece aside and scrape it. Use it for another shorter bend if you can then go at it again. You will make mistakes and have scrap material. Assuming you want quality bends. I scraped 3 24" pieces when I did my first build. However I was able to use most of those scrape pieces for smaller runs on my second machine.


Yeah, I'd say that starting out you will scrap a good bit of your runs, but by the end of your build you start one shotting them


----------



## Sym8iant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nice little find here;
> 
> I'm cross posting this from the WC thread, as it may be helpful here in particular
> 
> For you guys using 1/2" X 3/8" imperial tubing, whether Primochill or from McMaster etc. . . .
> 
> I found the near perfect insert cord for bending . . .
> 
> It doesn't seem as tight and "iffy" as the Primochill insert.
> 
> Its Buna N rubber, not silicone, so it isn't as burn proof, but it works fine at bending temps if you don't try to melt the tube.
> 
> It's 8.5mm metric O-ring cord stock, which is 0.354" dia. . . . Just enough under 3/8" to push in easily and get it out again.
> 
> McMaster Carr part number: 9679K27 It comes in various lengths from 3' to 100'. . . . . $1.38 per foot,
> 
> I got a 10' length to experiment with.
> 
> Couple pics below of a quick small radius U-bend, and the cord pushed thru a short scrap and also all the way thru a full 6' length.
> 
> I found this cord to swell a bit more with heat, so I needed to let the bend get cold and the cord to cool as well before pulling it out easily.
> 
> Would be nice if some of you tried it and gave feedback.
> 
> Darlene


I ordered some of this cord (part #: 9679K27) which by the way is 9.0mm. I received it last night and started using it immediately. It fits MUCH easier than the PrimoChill insert. I couldn't get their insert to go in further than a couple inches with any kind of lubrication and I was not wanting to have to sand rubber to make the thing work.

The PrimoChill is a silicone tube but this stuff is a solid cord of rubber and does not require any lubrication to be inserted or removed. I beveled the end of the cord so that it is a little easier to pull out after making the bend. I found that the square cut end sometimes wanted to bind in tighter bends, with it cut just on the end it slides out much easier.

All in all I would suggest this over the PrimoChill insert. Other people might have different experiences but I like the fact I know I can use this with tight bends and without coating it with oils or powders that I will later have to clean from the inside of the rigid tubing.


----------



## seross69

Has everyone seen this?? What we have been waiting for!!!


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Has everyone seen this?? What we have been waiting for!!!


YESSSSSSS!!!!!!! Oh yeah. Just got a chubby! Now lets hide that reference so noone else knows so that we can get a kit


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> YESSSSSSS!!!!!!! Oh yeah. Just got a chubby! Now lets hide that reference so noone else knows so that we can get a kit


Now that is more information than we needed.. LOL


----------



## cyphon

Nice price on the kit. A good bit less than I expected!


----------



## Radmanhs

do you think i could get a couple picks of 16 od tubing vs 12 od tubing?

which size do you like more?


----------



## ugotd8

Shaping up to be a fun Friday night... Wish me luck.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Shaping up to be a fun Friday night... Wish me luck.


Awesome, good luck!! Cant wait to see the result!

Will be doing the same soon. Not confident though









Have fun.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## szeged

anyone got a size comparison of the bitspower fittings compared to the primochill revolver fittings? im thinking if the primochill ones look too big and bulky i might grab the bitspower ones instead and go with e22 tubing.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone got a size comparison of the bitspower fittings compared to the primochill revolver fittings? im thinking if the primochill ones look too big and bulky i might grab the bitspower ones instead and go with e22 tubing.


C47 vs Primochill. The revolvers are the same size, but w/ a tapered top. I assume the Bitspower compressions are slightly larger. The compression fittings that don't have an o-ring in the base (like the Primochill) are considerably easier to use than the C47s.

Sorry about the pic quality, the sun went down over an hour ago.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-6-10.jpg.html


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> C47 vs Primochill. The revolvers are the same size, but w/ a tapered top. I assume the Bitspower compressions are slightly larger. The compression fittings that don't have an o-ring in the base (like the Primochill) are considerably easier to use than the C47s.
> 
> Sorry about the pic quality, the sun went down over an hour ago.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-6-10.jpg.html


thanks exactly what i wanted to see lowfat! very helpful









ill probably grab some of these then http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39664 i dont like how bulky and large the primochills look really.


----------



## IT Diva

Those are at least as big, if not bigger, just slightly more streamlined like the Primochill Revolver series.

The C47 are the slimmer sleeker bitspowers

Darlene


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Those are at least as big, if not bigger, just slightly more streamlined like the Primochill Revolver series.
> 
> The C47 are the slimmer sleeker bitspowers
> 
> Darlene


hmm, well then that makes my choice much more difficult, thanks for making my life hard Darlene







lol appreciate the feedback though, guess ill just have to go with which are easier to use then.

Thanks guys.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Bitspower C47
Height: 15.0 mm
Outer diameter: 18.0 mm
Thread length:5.0 mm


Bitspower C48
Height: 11.0 mm
Outer diameter: 18 mm
Thread length: 5.0 mm


Bitspower BSEML
Height: 15.5 mm
Outer diameter: 20 mm
Thread length: 5.0 mm


PrimoChill Ghost
dang source has wrong numbers .... those were for compression fittings .... estimating fromn pics
Height: 3/4" (19mm)
Outer diameter: 3/4" (19mm)
Thread length: 8.0 mm

NOTE: Some products have limitations on fitting thread length (i.e. EK Reservoirs)

Also

http://forums.pureoverclock.com/primochill/21193-rigid-ghost-compression-fittings-knurled-grip-4-packs-2-print.html


----------



## ugotd8

Ugh, first two test bends bubbled. Guess my paint stripper 1200 is a bit too much, even on low.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ugotd8*
> 
> Ugh, first two test bends bubbled. Guess my paint stripper 1200 is a bit too much, even on low.


Damn! Maybe hold it further away?? Heat up more of the tube, not just where the bend will be. I have a paint stripper as well, used low on a test piece, held it about 4 inches from heat gun on low and heated up about half the tube and bend where I wanted, then let it cool. That is as far as my experience and talent ends................

More savvy acrylic users will chime in.

Good luck.

Rob


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Damn! Maybe hold it further away?? Heat up more of the tube, not just where the bend will be. I have a paint stripper as well, used low on a test piece, held it about 4 inches from heat gun on low and heated up about half the tube and bend where I wanted, then let it cool. That is as far as my experience and talent ends................
> 
> More savvy acrylic users will chime in.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Rob


Thanks. I got my wife's craft gun and had better luck. Takes longer to become flexible, but no more bubbles. Now to read thru this thread again and figure out how to get the second 90 bend in the right place. Missed by a mile first time.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hmm, well then that makes my choice much more difficult, thanks for making my life hard Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol appreciate the feedback though, guess ill just have to go with which are easier to use then.
> 
> Thanks guys.


C47 VS EML


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> C47 VS EML


excellent comparison thank you! you dont happen to have any primochill fittings to add to the comparison?


----------



## Daggi

Is there any comparison on how much pressure they can handle before the rigid tubing is popping out of the fitting ??

I'm thinking on EK vs Bitspower ( C47, C48 an EML) vs Primochill


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> excellent comparison thank you! you dont happen to have any primochill fittings to add to the comparison?


No i don't have primochill fittings, i can't find them in europe, just like the RIVBE


----------



## fantasticgcg

Anyone know how to stop this from happening when im bending?

http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/FantasticCG/media/Mobile Uploads/image-19.jpg.html


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> C47 VS EML
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> excellent comparison thank you! you dont happen to have any primochill fittings to add to the comparison?
Click to expand...

Here's the C47 with the Primochil ghost and revolver for comparison.

The Primochill measure 24mm dia.

Darlene


----------



## szeged

Thanks Darlene, i appreciate it a lot! Ill probably end up with the primochill revolver fittings then, they dont look too bulky i guess, im just being picky







they will be dwarfed in the sth10 no matter what i put in there.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Thanks Darlene, i appreciate it a lot! Ill probably end up with the primochill revolver fittings then, they dont look too bulky i guess, im just being picky
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they will be dwarfed in the sth10 no matter what i put in there.


The compression bitspowers have the advantage of being able to hold the base while turning the compression sleeve, which makes them immeasurably better if you have to take stuff apart, unscrewing the Primochill wants to unscrew the whole fitting sometimes, (usually) not just the compression sleeve.

On the other hand, the knurled revolver really looks nice, (not a fan of the pancake look of the bp) and comes in colors if you want to accent your coolant color, or stay within a theme.

Darlene


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The compression bitspowers have the advantage of being able to hold the base while turning the compression sleeve, which makes them immeasurably better if you have to take stuff apart, unscrewing the Primochill wants to unscrew the whole fitting sometimes, (usually) not just the compression sleeve.
> 
> On the other hand, the knurled revolver really looks nice, (not a fan of the pancake look of the bp) and comes in colors if you want to accent your coolant color, or stay within a theme.
> 
> Darlene


ooh interesting info, thanks for sharing. I do change gear frequently so that may come in handy. Ill most likely be going black nickle/black sparkle with whichever brand i go with, hopefully i can make up my mind before they all get sold out lol. I also dont really like the pancake look of the bitspower compressions either, but it is what it is.

Thanks for including that, ease of use is one of the major factors im looking at here, and that helped a lot







ty.


----------



## szeged

now i need to find some 100cm e22 tubing, can only find 50cm pieces =\


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Is there any comparison on how much pressure they can handle before the rigid tubing is popping out of the fitting ??
> 
> I'm thinking on EK vs Bitspower ( C47, C48 an EML) vs Primochill


It isn't possible for the tubing to pop out inside a loop. Since the tubing is rigid there is force on both sides of the tubing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> now i need to find some 100cm e22 tubing, can only find 50cm pieces =\


That is the downside of e22 and EK. They have silly lengths. The 2 foot standard lengths of Primochill are so much nicer. 50cm just isn't enough.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> That is the downside of e22 and EK. They have silly lengths. The 2 foot standard lengths of Primochill are so much nicer. 50cm just isn't enough.


yeah, bitspower makes the connectors to link two pieces together, but i would need roughly 5 or 6 for what i have to do, and thats extra money i could spend on something else, i wish i could find some 100cm lengths in the USA of e22 atm, but everywhere seems to be out.

50cm lengths are just not enough for a case like the sth10.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Is there any comparison on how much pressure they can handle before the rigid tubing is popping out of the fitting ??
> 
> I'm thinking on EK vs Bitspower ( C47, C48 an EML) vs Primochill
> 
> 
> 
> *It isn't possible for the tubing to pop out inside a loop*. Since the tubing is rigid there is force on both sides of the tubing.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> now i need to find some 100cm e22 tubing, can only find 50cm pieces =\
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is the downside of e22 and EK. They have silly lengths. The 2 foot standard lengths of Primochill are so much nicer. 50cm just isn't enough.
Click to expand...

Have another cup 'o coffee and think about that one some more . . . . .

The pressure exerts force in all directions, if one direction has less restorative force, (frictional fit of the tube in the fitting + disinclination of the fitting to be extended off the tube) it will cause separation there.

U-bends would be the most vulnerable, as the only restorative force is the friction of the tube in the fitting . . . . Nothing keeping the tube from moving away from the fittings.

When k3nny did his first acrylic tube builds, he had 1/2" tubing and was sanding the ends to 12 mm to use the C47 fittings.

It wasn't the most consistent sizing and he had some pop out under pressure.

He used short soft tubing runs in hidden places as air buffers to let pressure from expansion compress the air to limit pressure in the loop and prevent blow outs.

Darlene


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have another cup 'o coffee and think about that one some more . . . . .
> 
> The pressure exerts force in all directions, if one direction has less restorative force, (frictional fit of the tube in the fitting + disinclination of the fitting to be extended off the tube) it will cause separation there.
> 
> U-bends would be the most vulnerable, as the only restorative force is the friction of the tube in the fitting . . . . Nothing keeping the tube from moving away from the fittings.
> 
> When k3nny did his first acrylic tube builds, he had 1/2" tubing and was sanding the ends to 12 mm to use the C47 fittings.
> 
> It wasn't the most consistent sizing and he had some pop out under pressure.
> 
> He used short soft tubing runs in hidden places as air buffers to let pressure from expansion compress the air to limit pressure in the loop and prevent blow outs.
> 
> Darlene










Didn't think about u-bends.


----------



## ugotd8

2 down 2 to go. Respect to all of you and your perfect bends, this is not easy.


----------



## szeged

that looks pretty good if you ask me







good job!


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Have another cup 'o coffee and think about that one some more . . . . .
> 
> The pressure exerts force in all directions, if one direction has less restorative force, (frictional fit of the tube in the fitting + disinclination of the fitting to be extended off the tube) it will cause separation there.
> 
> U-bends would be the most vulnerable, as the only restorative force is the friction of the tube in the fitting . . . . Nothing keeping the tube from moving away from the fittings.
> 
> When k3nny did his first acrylic tube builds, he had 1/2" tubing and was sanding the ends to 12 mm to use the C47 fittings.
> 
> It wasn't the most consistent sizing and he had some pop out under pressure.
> 
> He used short soft tubing runs in hidden places as air buffers to let pressure from expansion compress the air to limit pressure in the loop and prevent blow outs.
> 
> Darlene


Do you know if there is done some pressure testing on these fittings? I have EK and Bitspower C47, think i might do my own research on these.


----------



## IT Diva

I don't know of any testing that's been done to get some real numbers, but since we've had real 12mm tubing available for the C47/48, and fittings for 1/2" tubing, I've not heard where anyone has had a blowout failure or separation leak from a properly inserted joint.

I'd still suggest running a fair bit of airspace in the res for a build with a lot of coolant volume, or use the vent / equalizing fittings.

Darlene


----------



## ugotd8

I'm about to put an MCP35X2 to use on some primochill 1/2" OD tubing with ghost fittings. If any pump can blow the tubing out of the fittings, the MCP35X2 can.









I'll report here if I have a blowout.

EDIT: I'm not worried at all.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I have been playing with EK tubing, EK HD Adaptors and Bitspower C47's and they hold much much stronger than I imagined they would. It seems much stronger than say flex tubing on barbs with no clamps and Martin tested that up to about 20PSI I think.


----------



## avielcs

Hi all
I dont see you guys talking about EK's 12/16 acrylic tubing, are they any good?
Maybe someone put a pic of EK's 12/16 fittings for comparison ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I have been playing with EK tubing, EK HD Adaptors and Bitspower C47's and they hold much much stronger than I imagined they would. It seems much stronger than say flex tubing on barbs with no clamps and Martin tested that up to about 20PSI I think.


Yup,more than enough. Monsoons new fittings can hang a 40 lb weight off them according to Geno,if you have anymore doubts.

The only likely trouble is if you deform the tube when using c47's


----------



## ugotd8

Well here we go...













And these were worth every penny...


----------



## IT Diva

Now that looks excellent!

Nice day's work there, now it must be Miller time.
















Darlene


----------



## lowfat

Nicely done so far.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Awesome mate well done! You made it look easy!!!

I hope mine comes out looking the same.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## ugotd8

Thanks all. Leak testing now, working great. With the MCP35X2 powered like this, it runs full speed so this is worst case as far as pressure on the tubing and so far not a drop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> ooh interesting info, thanks for sharing. I do change gear frequently so that may come in handy. Ill most likely be going black nickle/black sparkle with whichever brand i go with, hopefully i can make up my mind before they all get sold out lol. I also dont really like the pancake look of the bitspower compressions either, but it is what it is.
> 
> Thanks for including that, ease of use is one of the major factors im looking at here, and that helped a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ty.


would add ...

-Well there's that ..... and I took mine apart a lot during assembly ...., but also I had difficulty with aesthetic match between the tube connectors of one brand and the thd fittings from other....colors, size and design clash and all.

-The assembly / disassembly thing as you test fit, take out and refit will result in loss of a few paint flakes if threads are painted....in my case found a few in CPU WB after 5 day initial 'flush run".


----------



## CustomLabs

has anyone thought of doing a phase change system with acrylic tubing? like this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aFnk5mentJc but with acrylic tubing instead of a submerged PC? might be worth a thought? would be cool to see the whole system working


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CustomLabs*
> 
> has anyone thought of doing a phase change system with acrylic tubing?


That would be a horrible idea. First off the acrylic will likely become brittle and crack. Secondly you need to insulate your tubing anyways to prevent condensation forming on the tubing and to help w/ temperatures.


----------



## seross69

These are nice and I might use some of these in my build later.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> These are nice and I might use some of these in my build later.


Whaddya do when the lengths don't match the distance between ya fittings ?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> These are nice and I might use some of these in my build later.
> 
> 
> 
> Whaddya do when the lengths don't match the distance between ya fittings ?
Click to expand...

Cut it to length and re-tap that end should work









D.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Whaddya do when the lengths don't match the distance between ya fittings ?


well they sell from 15 to 60 mm or long if you ask..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Cut it to length and re-tap that end should work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


this would work for sure.


----------



## Masked

If you were to use a standard compression fitting, I'm pretty sure it could be done.

I believe Beavis tackled this a few years ago.

Wouldn't heating the end of the tube, screwing it in and "lightly" tightening be adequate enough to handle the pressure?

I'm not saying deform the tube but, in a standards 3/8x1/2 - Wouldn't it be fine?


----------



## ledzepp3

What would you guys recommend for bending the actual acrylic, like how to get the angle? I've been trying to get one of the Monsoon bending kits, but are they even out yet?

-Zepp


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fantasticgcg*
> 
> Anyone know how to stop this from happening when im bending?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1164.photobucket.com/user/FantasticCG/media/Mobile Uploads/image-19.jpg.html


I didn't see anyone else answer you, but it looks to me like you aren't using a silicone tube when bending. Check first post of thread for details.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Cut it to length and re-tap that end should work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


Yeah I know....but if ya have the threading equipment already, the logic of buying pre-threaded tubes escapes me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> well they sell from 15 to 60 mm or long if you ask..


That's still gonna leave a few runs ..... but more importantly, in my build I pretty much had to go one at a time....measure up a run with a caliper, cut the tube, assemble it, measure next run, cut the tube, assemble it .... take both runs out and cut a bit off the length of 1st one ..... wasn't in a position to know the lengths of most cuts until after I had others in place.... seems to make it very difficult to order precise lengths that way

About 10% of my cuts worked 1st shot
About 60% of my cuts worked on second try
About 25% of my runs worked on third try
The last 5% got redone a few more times .... in some cases a week later


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> What would you guys recommend for bending the actual acrylic, like how to get the angle? I've been trying to get one of the Monsoon bending kits, but are they even out yet?
> 
> -Zepp


My kit is on its way,PPC should have them very soon


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Cut it to length and re-tap that end should work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I know....but if ya have the threading equipment already, the logic of buying pre-threaded tubes escapes me.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> well they sell from 15 to 60 mm or long if you ask..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's still gonna leave a few runs ..... but more importantly, in my build I pretty much had to go one at a time....measure up a run with a caliper, cut the tube, assemble it, measure next run, cut the tube, assemble it .... take both runs out and cut a bit off the length of 1st one ..... wasn't in a position to know the lengths of most cuts until after I had others in place.... seems to make it very difficult to order precise lengths that way
> 
> About 10% of my cuts worked 1st shot
> About 60% of my cuts worked on second try
> About 25% of my runs worked on third try
> The last 5% got redone a few more times .... in some cases a week later
Click to expand...

I can't imagine wanting to do a whole rig with it. Fast Fate did one, which I linked to a while back, and the tubing / piping looks the pits to me.

Where it would be useful is as a substitute for regular extensions in a loop done in E22 / C47's on the mobo blocks.

Shorty male to male connectors to connect it to ram or chipset / mosfet blocks could look nicer, while being as rigid, as regular extensions.

It would do that with the available lengths just fine.

Darlene


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I can't imagine wanting to do a whole rig with it. Fast Fate did one, which I linked to a while back, and the tubing / piping looks the pits to me.
> 
> Where it would be useful is as a substitute for regular extensions in a loop done in E22 / C47's on the mobo blocks.
> 
> Shorty male to male connectors to connect it to ram or chipset / mosfet blocks could look nicer, while being as rigid, as regular extensions.
> 
> It would do that with the available lengths just fine.


Ahhhhh..... grasshopper understands now....those little short ones could be a PITA to bevel...... handy to for doing so is a spare C47 and 30mm extender .... the ones I hadda do from CPU block to red drop and MoBo block were < 25mm ... kinda small when 8 + 8 goes inside the fitting

The OCNer in me (Obsessive Compulsive Nerd) tho would lie awake at nite ..... stressing over the different ends.

I want the "System Builder" module for AutoCAD ... where ya cud import 3D models of all ya components .... do a mock up of ya config and then order all ya precut tubing

No where's the acrylic threading fittings ????.....w/ UV reactive O-Rings ???


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Cut it to length and re-tap that end should work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I know....but if ya have the threading equipment already, the logic of buying pre-threaded tubes escapes me.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> well they sell from 15 to 60 mm or long if you ask..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's still gonna leave a few runs ..... but more importantly, in my build I pretty much had to go one at a time....measure up a run with a caliper, cut the tube, assemble it, measure next run, cut the tube, assemble it .... take both runs out and cut a bit off the length of 1st one ..... wasn't in a position to know the lengths of most cuts until after I had others in place.... seems to make it very difficult to order precise lengths that way
> 
> About 10% of my cuts worked 1st shot
> About 60% of my cuts worked on second try
> About 25% of my runs worked on third try
> The last 5% got redone a few more times .... in some cases a week later
Click to expand...

The secret is have a length of tube in the fitting you are aiming for,it would of been easy for you seeing as you didnt actually bend anything. You did all your loop with fittings did you not?

Not quite sure why you would bevel internally threaded pipe either....

The fittings for this tube already exists in the form of 1/4" male to male.


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My kit is on its way,PPC should have them very soon


How did you order it I did not see it on the website on PPC can you give me the link

Thanks


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The secret is have a length of tube in the fitting you are aiming for,it would of been easy for you seeing as you didnt actually bend anything. You did all your loop with fittings did you not?
> 
> Not quite sure why you would bevel internally threaded pipe either....
> 
> The fittings for this tube already exists in the form of 1/4" male to male.


I was always like within a mm .... but when you going from point A to Point B with C, D and E in the middle .... and in 3 dimensions, you are always guessing where the next fitting thatz gonna be hanging out in space will be .... and yes.... I did take apart sections to shave off a half a mm







.... ones I did more than once were mostly after I realigned GFX cards to get rid of the sag.

Only "beveled the outside"....just deburred the inside... ...after cutting, ya have little stragglers hanging off ...... would usually take 6 -8 turned around the tool to get a nice smooth bevel on outside....never more than 1-2 on the inside to get the burrs off.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The secret is have a length of tube in the fitting you are aiming for,it would of been easy for you seeing as you didnt actually bend anything. You did all your loop with fittings did you not?
> 
> Not quite sure why you would bevel internally threaded pipe either....
> 
> The fittings for this tube already exists in the form of 1/4" male to male.
> 
> 
> 
> I was always like within a mm .... but when you going from point A to Point B with C, D and E in the middle .... and in 3 dimensions, you are always guessing where the next fitting thatz gonna be hanging out in space will be .... and yes.... I did take apart sections to shave off a half a mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... ones I did more than once were mostly after I realigned GFX cards to get rid of the sag.
> 
> Only "beveled the outside"....just deburred the inside... ...after cutting, ya have little stragglers hanging off ...... would usually take 6 -8 turned around the tool to get a nice smooth bevel on outside....never more than 1-2 on the inside to get the burrs off.
Click to expand...

I know this already but you were commenting on threaded pipe....no need to bevel threaded pipe.


----------



## avielcs

Sorry for asking again but...
Has anyone tried EK's 12/16 acrylic tubing?
Is there a reason to use them over e22 tubes which have smaller diameter ?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My kit is on its way,PPC should have them very soon
> 
> 
> 
> How did you order it I did not see it on the website on PPC can you give me the link
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

I didn't get mine thru PPC,im sponsored by Monsoon and got it directly from them.
Hank reckons PPC will have theirs any day now.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I know this already but you were commenting on threaded pipe....no need to bevel threaded pipe.


I can't find the reference you are referring to .... did I word something badly or mix responses to comments somewhere ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FYI: Monsoon Hardline Pro Bender Kits are on sale now at Performance PCs.

It had been posted earlier in this thread that Monsoon planned on having how-to video(s) for using the kits before or to coincide with their release. Anyone seen anything like that yet?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Information on when we can purchase the monsoon sets
> 
> Monsoon told me the below tonight.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> they are packaged and ready to ship but I am working on getting the video done so people are not stranded with something they are not sure how to use
> 
> They should be shipping next week, (7 to 10 days to have them in stock).
Click to expand...


----------



## Inviso

Nope.

Also doesn't look like their fittings and tube is released yet.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FYI: Monsoon Hardline Pro Bender Kits are on sale now at Performance PCs.
> 
> It had been posted earlier in this thread that Monsoon planned on having how-to video(s) for using the kits before or to coincide with their release. Anyone seen anything like that yet?


I have not had a chance to look but did you check their web site.. just trying to get caught up here so I can play with daughter and put her to bed..

I got my kit ordered also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## sdcalihusker

Just ordered my kit too! Gonna be a new look for the new year!


----------



## szeged

Got my 13mm kit ordered


----------



## lowfat

Waiting till FCPU has it in stock. Should be any day now.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It had been posted earlier in this thread that Monsoon planned on having how-to video(s) for using the kits before or to coincide with their release. Anyone seen anything like that yet?


Geno posted this the day before yesterday...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> North American resellers should have the tool kits Tomorrow.
> 
> Still working on the how too video's. I have been trying to use a head mounted POV camera but the bobbing around is likely to make people seasick =)
> 
> Not sure how those p0rn guys manage to hold the camera so still...I even got a neck brace in an attempt to stop being so "Italian" =)


----------



## Baron C

Anyone know who in the Uk is intending to stock the hardline Monsoon Kit?


----------



## skruffs01

Ordered


----------



## Juthos

C47-ems-primochill ghost



unable to find revolver in europe


----------



## lowfat

Ordered the bending kit from FCPU. $75 and it includes a heatgun.


----------



## ftb101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Anyone know who in the Uk is intending to stock the hardline Monsoon Kit?


I emailed Geno about this. OCUK are their UK distributor but they haven't ordered any of this batch. I guess they are seeing how well it sells first.


----------



## Daggi

Going to fire up my lathe this weekend and make some bending tools. Is there anyone that know's the minimum bending radius for EK- 12/16 acrylic tubing? Asking because I don't have my tubing in the mail before monday.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Anyone know who in the Uk is intending to stock the hardline Monsoon Kit?


I will be helping Geno out with the UK guys by renting my kit out,If you live in London then i also offer a home bending service.


----------



## CustomLabs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Going to fire up my lathe this weekend and make some bending tools. Is there anyone that know's the minimum bending radius for EK- 12/16 acrylic tubing? Asking because I don't have my tubing in the mail before monday.


not certain so I wouldn't take my word on it but I got taught a trick with steel exhaust tubing which is that you generally can't bend it tighter than it's own diameter but it's different for different materials and wall thickness plays a huge roll as well. Still i'd say the rules are pretty similar.


----------



## ledzepp3

Asked this in the Water Cooling Club, but for the bending kits should I get the 13mm set and my own 10mm internal tubing to keep it from collapsing? I'll be ordering the kit today hopefully.

-Zepp


----------



## szeged

my acrylic kit is arriving today in the next few hours, hopefully the silicon insert it comes with fits inside the e22 10/12mm tubing. will post close up pics of everything that comes in it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> my acrylic kit is arriving today in the next few hours, hopefully the silicon insert it comes with fits inside the e22 10/12mm tubing. will post close up pics of everything that comes in it.


If its the Monsoon one,it will,I was involved with the formers with Monsoon.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its the Monsoon one,it will,I was involved with the formers with Monsoon.


Cool thanks for the confirmation! Glad to have you working with the companies to get what we need/want









now ppcs needs to restock on bitspower fittings for the tubing


----------



## Inviso

B Neg, I know you have more insight than the rest of us, so here is a question I'm hoping you have info on:

What is the timeline for the Monsoon rigid fittings? I really want some chaingun fittings for my rig to go along with this new kit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> B Neg, I know you have more insight than the rest of us, so here is a question I'm hoping you have info on:
> 
> What is the timeline for the Monsoon rigid fittings? I really want some chaingun fittings for my rig to go along with this new kit.


Very soon,Monsoon have them ready and i think there is a small selection coming with my kit so i will post pics if this is the case.
I will mail Monsoon and get more info.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If its the Monsoon one,it will,I was involved with the formers with Monsoon.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool thanks for the confirmation! Glad to have you working with the companies to get what we need/want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now ppcs needs to restock on bitspower fittings for the tubing
Click to expand...

I played a _very_ small part,the work on these are all Monsoon's. Was nice to be consulted tho,this thread and all its contributors aided greatly in this.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FYI: Monsoon Hardline Pro Bender Kits are on sale now at Performance PCs.
> 
> It had been posted earlier in this thread that Monsoon planned on having how-to video(s) for using the kits before or to coincide with their release. Anyone seen anything like that yet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have not had a chance to look but did you check their web site.. just trying to get caught up here so I can play with daughter and put her to bed..
> 
> I got my kit ordered also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


If this is their site:

http://monsooncooling.com

... they don't even mention the hardline kit or acrylic fittings or anything.









If that's their site, and it's all google found that I could find, it's pretty ,,,,... for lack of a better word, _terrible_ imho.

They apparently don't even a facebook page or whatnot or if they do it's sure well hidden. Weird.

Soooo, if / when Monsoon does come out with the vid(s) showing off use of their new hardline kit, or if by some chance it's already out somewhere, where would / should someone be looking to find it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> FYI: Monsoon Hardline Pro Bender Kits are on sale now at Performance PCs.
> 
> It had been posted earlier in this thread that Monsoon planned on having how-to video(s) for using the kits before or to coincide with their release. Anyone seen anything like that yet?
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I have not had a chance to look but did you check their web site.. just trying to get caught up here so I can play with daughter and put her to bed..
> 
> I got my kit ordered also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If this is their site:
> 
> http://monsooncooling.com
> 
> ... they don't even mention the hardline kit or acrylic fittings or anything.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If / when Monsoon does come out with the vid(s) showing off use of their new hardline kit, or if by some chance it's already out somewhere, where would / should someone be looking to find it?
Click to expand...

Im not sure if im allowed to share this so.....

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4

....keep it quiet.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sure if im allowed to share this so.....
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4
> 
> ....keep it quiet.


Thank you Thank you. I won't tell anyone I swear!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If that's their site, and it's all google found that I could find, it's pretty ,,,,... for lack of a better word, _terrible_ imho.


I agree. Their site is pretty and that is about it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If that's their site, and it's all google found that I could find, it's pretty ,,,,... for lack of a better word, _terrible_ imho.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree. Their site is pretty and that is about it.
Click to expand...

You should try the Bitspower site.......


----------



## szeged

the bitspower site is the most useless thing ive ever seen.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

lol, bitspower's site could be a LOT better, that's for sure, but I can usually find what I'm looking for there now that I've gotten used to it. I wind up going there pretty often actually to see the dimensional specs for their fittings. I wish all companies that made PC gear would post that info, especially fittings. So much of the time I need to know exactly how wide, thick, tall it is to have any idea if it will work or not. I couldn't count how many times I just had to order a whole bunch of different brand fittings hoping one might work because I couldn't find any specific dimensional info for them. Bitspower usually has that info posted. Sometimes retailers like FrozenCPU will have it too, but if not it's almost always posted on Bitspower's site, if you can find it. lol


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sure if im allowed to share this so.....
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4
> 
> ....keep it quiet.


If that's the same reamer / deburrer / beveler tool in the 2nd pic which is sold at all the WC shops .... Given it's $9-10 cost and the $11 for the steel one, I'd hope they soon offer that as an alternative.....

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inner-Outer-Reamer-HDX085/204218601#

I found the build quality poor and it has an "insubstantial" feel in ya hand.


----------



## szeged

its here


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sure if im allowed to share this so.....
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4
> 
> ....keep it quiet.


Quite brilliant and very secure, however, I bet these things won't work if you're using copper hard lines..
If they could make a version where the fittings are supplied with copper shims instead of acrylic which you simply solder onto the end of your tube..


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sure if im allowed to share this so.....
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4
> 
> ....keep it quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite brilliant and very secure, however, I bet these things won't work if you're using copper hard lines..
> If they could make a version where the fittings are supplied with copper shims instead of acrylic which you simply solder onto the end of your tube..
Click to expand...

I think they've come up with an absolutely brilliant solution to a problem that they so brilliantly invented . . . .

None of us has had a fitting blow out and separate.

The security of hanging a 30lb dumbbell on one is overkill, even by any stretch of an overactive OCN imagination.

A little quick math gives us a pressure of ~265 psi to give a 30lb separating force.

Ohhh, did I mention that the current crop of fittings seem to be more forgiving of side loading and angular mismatch.

I think for the time being, I'll stay with C47 style fittings with barrel o rings, or a compression o ring if I really need easy disassembly.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sure if im allowed to share this so.....
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4
> 
> ....keep it quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite brilliant and very secure, however, I bet these things won't work if you're using copper hard lines..
> If they could make a version where the fittings are supplied with copper shims instead of acrylic which you simply solder onto the end of your tube..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think they've come up with an absolutely brilliant solution to a problem that they so brilliantly invented . . . .
> 
> None of us has had a fitting blow out and separate.
> 
> The security of hanging a 30lb dumbbell on one is overkill, even by any stretch of an overactive OCN imagination.
> 
> A little quick math gives us a pressure of ~265 psi to give a 30lb separating force.
> 
> Ohhh, did I mention that the current crop of fittings seem to be more forgiving of side loading and angular mismatch.
> 
> I think for the time being, I'll stay with C47 style fittings with barrel o rings, or a compression o ring if I really need easy disassembly.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

The word you are missing is yet.

Nothing wrong with a secure fitting,I am a big supporter of pushfit and lock rings...tubing going out of round is common as stated in the video.
Fitting these are MUCH easier with zero insertion force and a torque-able compression ring,my idea of a dedicated,practical design. There some very valid points made in that video.

If i wasnt sponsored by Bitspower then i would be all over these.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The word you are missing is yet.
> 
> Nothing wrong with a secure fitting,I am a big supporter of pushfit and lock rings...tubing going out of round is common as stated in the video.
> Fitting these are MUCH easier with zero insertion force and a torque-able compression ring,my idea of a dedicated,practical design. There some very valid points made in that video.
> 
> If i wasnt sponsored by Bitspower then i would be all over these.


Since you are in close contact with monsoon could you possibly ask them about these fittings for copper tubing? I'm not sponsored by any company so I'm full of options








Always look on the bright side right?









[edit] Also, these fittings have practically zero millimeter insertion depth. Fitting a run in-between two fixed points that are in-line is easy with these fittings, whilst with the bitspower fittings you either have to flex your components or take everything apart (if at all possible)

The more I think about it the more I want these fittings for my build.. I wonder if using 15x13mm copper pipe as the sleeve will work?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I think for the time being, I'll stay with C47 style fittings with barrel o rings, or a compression o ring if I really need easy disassembly.


I found it interesting until the lock ring and glue ...... no longer interested. Oops, my measurement was 1mm too long .... well shaving some off sure makes a lotta double work.


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I found it interesting until the lock ring and glue ...... no longer interested. Oops, my measurement was 1mm too long .... well shaving some off sure makes a lotta double work.


Remember the guy in that vid specifically said this stuff is for the pro's. And we aaaall know pro's don't make mistakes..


















On a more serious note, you can wait with glueing the shim till you know you got the length exactly right. It doesn't need to be glued in place for checking if the length is right.
It surprises me though that the guy hasn't said anything about being able to order the shims separately, cause if you do screw up the shim will be lost, same as when you rebuild your loop.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Remember the guy in that vid specifically said this stuff is for the pro's. And we aaaall know pro's don't make mistakes..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a more serious note, you can wait with glueing the shim till you know you got the length exactly right. It doesn't need to be glued in place for checking if the length is right.
> It surprises me though that the guy hasn't said anything about being able to order the shims separately, cause if you do screw up the shim will be lost, same as when you rebuild your loop.


I found myself doing two attempts more often than one ... some 3 .... then a week later, made 2 changes and now a month later I'm looking at one line that's off by a mm or so. Expansion and contraction changed a few things .... taking rig from test bench to final location shook things up a bit.... seems I have one fitting that I rotated into position and then when rig warms up....the rotary loosens a little and it moves....after a month of that I guess rotary isn't as stiff and rotating back, doesn't hold. ..... and then ya have to account for the length of those end thingies

Finally, 90% of my builds get done after work .... when it is dark out







..... guess there will be a UV light available soon.

On the vids themselves, I found them hard to watch .....

-the d/l speed on the videos is atrocious.
-the "I did this" and "I did that" stuff prolly got him the cold shoulder at work day after vid came out.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jetskyer*
> 
> Remember the guy in that vid specifically said this stuff is for the pro's. And we aaaall know pro's don't make mistakes..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a more serious note, you can wait with glueing the shim till you know you got the length exactly right. It doesn't need to be glued in place for checking if the length is right.
> It surprises me though that the guy hasn't said anything about being able to order the shims separately, cause if you do screw up the shim will be lost, same as when you rebuild your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> I found myself doing two attempts more often than one ... some 3 .... then a week later, made 2 changes and now a month later I'm looking at one line that's off by a mm or so. Expansion and contraction changed a few things .... taking rig from test bench to final location shook things up a bit.... seems I have one fitting that I rotated into position and then when rig warms up....the rotary loosens a little and it moves....after a month of that I guess rotary isn't as stiff and rotating back, doesn't hold. ..... and then ya have to account for the length of those end thingies
> 
> Finally, 90% of my builds get done after work .... when it is dark out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... guess there will be a UV light available soon.
> 
> On the vids themselves, I found them hard to watch .....
> 
> -the d/l speed on the videos is atrocious.
> -the "I did this" and "I did that" stuff prolly got him the cold shoulder at work day after vid came out.
Click to expand...

The 'end thingies' would be on the end of the tube while you do your run projection,no problem there. They would also work if the run came up short.
Because you choose to work 7 days a week so you apparently never see daylight makes this design poor?

The video's are on his private server,he chose to share them with me,he didn't ask me to post to the general community and its not set up for general access.

These fittings are welcome design and I have no problems recommending them.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The 'end thingies' would be on the end of the tube while you do your run projection,no problem there. They would also work if the run came up short.
> Because you choose to work 7 days a week so you apparently never see daylight makes this design poor?
> 
> The video's are on his private server,he chose to share them with me,he didn't ask me to post to the general community and its not set up for general access.
> 
> These fittings are welcome design and I have no problems recommending them.


I really can't take this daylight question seriously. No, I don't work 7 days a week but I do have a family and other normal adult responsibilities .... and we also have this thing called winter here where it's below freezing and snowing outside. I do a lotta builds on weekends.... often work long into the wee hours of the morning.....having to stop at dusk (4pm ish this time of year )..... can take 8 -10 hours off the time I normally have available.

I have no tools, hobbies or any other endeavors that can only be done in sunlight. Such a restriction is something I think most people would find unnecessarily limiting.

Option 1 - I can buy the new Motorola pocket music player that can only be used in sunlight

Option 2 - The Samsung one works anywhere, any time, any weather.

Which one ya think will be more successful in the marketplace ?

Reminds me of my ole 64 Jaguar XKE .... only ran in dry weather









Again, aside from the daylight thing, I find the concept intriguing ... I was thinking this would be good for system builders, who sell their products and have to ship them but wait ... sorry it's been raining for a week here so ya system won't ship out for another 5 days....sorry bud, weather forecast is bad for the next few days so don't bother coming to work until weather clears up. Before I could see anyone doing that, I think it be less effort and better results doing what Digital Storm does w/ nickel plated copper:



As for getting it right..... Im not that good....when making a tube that ends in 3D space and connects to something that isn't there yet, I had a hard time guessing how long it shud be....Build is a month old and there's things I wanna change.....changing anything on that stuff looks like quite an endeavor.

There are other ways of getting things to cure under light .... dental resin for example....imagine going to dentist and when he puts ya crown on, ya gotta go outside and stand in the sun w/ ya mouth open for 10 minutes







.... Dental light guns start at about $35..... provide something similar as an option and remove a huge obstacle.

Still, bit too much work involved in getting the glue on "just right" too, he musta disassembled / reassembled that one joint 5-6 times. I gotta agree w/ Darlene.... they have invented a great, (if a bit cumbersome to work with) design, but only after inventing a problem that many will feel didn't need solving ..... and getting there just a bit too limiting. I'm sure some people will jump into it and I could see myself doing one for a show so as to have something "just a bit" different to attract attention to the booth..... I wouldn't criticize anyone for choosing that path .... but for my own or a client build, just not seeing a useful return on the extra / lost T & E.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The 'end thingies' would be on the end of the tube while you do your run projection,no problem there. They would also work if the run came up short.
> Because you choose to work 7 days a week so you apparently never see daylight makes this design poor?
> 
> The video's are on his private server,he chose to share them with me,he didn't ask me to post to the general community and its not set up for general access.
> 
> These fittings are welcome design and I have no problems recommending them.
> 
> 
> 
> *I really can't take this daylight question seriously.* No, I don't work 7 days a week but I do have a family and other normal adult responsibilities .... and we also have this thing called winter here where it's below freezing and snowing outside. I do a lotta builds on weekends.... often work long into the wee hours of the morning.....having to stop at dusk (4pm ish this time of year )..... can take 8 -10 hours off the time I normally have available.
> 
> I have no tools, hobbies or any other endeavors that can only be done in sunlight. Such a restriction is something I think most people would find unnecessarily limiting.
> 
> Option 1 - I can buy the new Motorola pocket music player that can only be used in sunlight
> 
> Option 2 - The Samsung one works anywhere, any time, any weather.
> 
> Which one ya think will be more successful in the marketplace ?
> 
> Reminds me of my ole 64 Jaguar XKE .... only ran in dry weather
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, aside from the daylight thing, I find the concept intriguing ... I was thinking this would be good for system builders, who sell their products and have to ship them but wait ... sorry it's been raining for a week here so ya system won't ship out for another 5 days....sorry bud, weather forecast is bad for the next few days so don't bother coming to work until weather clears up. Before I could see anyone doing that, I think it be less effort and better results doing what Digital Storm does w/ nickel plated copper:
> 
> 
> 
> As for getting it right..... Im not that good....when making a tube that ends in 3D space and connects to something that isn't there yet, I had a hard time guessing how long it shud be....Build is a month old and there's things I wanna change.....changing anything on that stuff looks like quite an endeavor.
> 
> There are other ways of getting things to cure under light .... dental resin for example....imagine going to dentist and when he puts ya crown on, ya gotta go outside and stand in the sun w/ ya mouth open for 10 minutes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... Dental light guns start at about $35..... provide something similar as an option and remove a huge obstacle.
> 
> Still, bit too much work involved in getting the glue on "just right" too, he musta disassembled / reassembled that one joint 5-6 times. I gotta agree w/ Darlene.... they have invented a great, (if a bit cumbersome to work with) design, but only after inventing a problem that many will feel didn't need solving ..... and getting there just a bit too limiting. I'm sure some people will jump into it and I could see myself doing one for a show so as to have something "just a bit" different to attract attention to the booth..... I wouldn't criticize anyone for choosing that path .... but for my own or a client build, just not seeing a useful return on the extra / lost T & E.
Click to expand...

Yeah....couldnt sleep last night and was 'irritated' posting.....

Look at it this way,you have a product that eliminates having to dress the tube,has zero insertion force and a secure fitting.
He did say at the beginning he was doing it like a first timer to show how easy it was to clean up etc,too much glue and a lot of joint re-seats.

As for nickel plated copper...well,I was there first....





This is my daily driver,nearly 2 years old and never maintained other than a yearly fluid change and i popped off one of the GPU block covers to have a corrosion check about 2 months a go.

Chrome plated copper FTW!


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Oh it's definitely an interesting product and has a niche ... but like most engineering types (I resemble that remark) we focus on the problem and not the user. The daylight thing surpised me and made me alugfh as not going outside does fit the engineering stereotype







.... here's one of the funniest things I ever read

http://minuet.dance.ohio-state.edu/ralley2/writings/dilbert.html
Quote:


> If you're not familiar with Dilbert, he's an electrical engineer who spends most of his time with his computer. .....with the ozone layer evaporating, it's a good strategy to mate with somebody who has an indoor hobby. Outdoorsy men are applying suntan lotion with SPF 10,000 and yet by the age of 30 they still look like dried chili peppers in pants. Compare that with the healthy glow of a man who spends 12 hours a day in front of a video screen.


If ya never read, give the whole article a read ... it will definitely lighten the mood.

As for the chrome, yes I remembered you mentioning your metal tube build before .... which was what made it a good reference









I wanna do a build w/ X Mas Tube Lights and put coolant in the tubes !


----------



## Jakusonfire

First Attempt






Left a gap because I am deciding whether to add some stuff. Not totally happy with all the bends but I only used 4 pieces of tube and have 6 left so I will organise a jig maybe for the multiple bends.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I just happened to see this website while trying to find pictures of what the Monsoon acrylic fittings looked it... Didn't think there was square tubing out there readily available... This stuff would be pretty trick to bend, let alone find a fitting for...










http://www.hindleys.com/index.php/materials/plastics-foam/rods-tubes-block/tubes/clear-square-acrylic-tube/length-610mm.html

BTW - does anyone know what the Monsoon fittings look like or have pictures/a link? I'm about a week away from pulling the trigger to ordering my tubing and Bitspower C47 fittings, but if Monsoon can entice me with a better design, then I may change my mind and wait for those to become available.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I just happened to see this website while trying to find pictures of what the Monsoon acrylic fittings looked it... Didn't think there was square tubing out there readily available... This stuff would be pretty trick to bend, let alone find a fitting for...
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.thermoplasticprocesses.com/products-acrylic-plastic.html
> 
> BTW - does anyone know what the Monsoon fittings look like or have pictures/a link? I'm about a week away from pulling the trigger to ordering my tubing and Bitspower C47 fittings, but if Monsoon can entice me with a better design, then I may change my mind and wait for those to become available.


They will be the same fittings just a different base. So you could buy your fittings now if you wanted and add the bases later and have "multipurpose" fittings.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> They will be the same fittings just a different base. So you could buy your fittings now if you wanted and add the bases later and have "multipurpose" fittings.


I'm currently running the 3/4" black chrome Monsoon fittings on my rig now, but I want to go with a matte black fitting this time around if I'm going with a rigid tubing setup. Considering the information you just provided, I guess I will just go with the C47's then... It's mapping out exactly how many fittings and extensions, and not knowing if you order to little or too many that's the hard part of a new build. Hopefully I get it right the first time.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm currently running the 3/4" black chrome Monsoon fittings on my rig now, but I want to go with a matte black fitting this time around if I'm going with a rigid tubing setup. Considering the information you just provided, I guess I will just go with the C47's then... It's mapping out exactly how many fittings and extensions, and not knowing if you order to little or too many that's the hard part of a new build. Hopefully I get it right the first time.


I mean that the monsoon branded fittings are interchangeable with the one top compression piece being used with one of two bases. One base for acylic and a different base for soft tube, so yeah, with the size you have you would need complete new fittings. Expensive buggers...


----------



## shish0000

Monsoon fittings look incredible anyone know of likely pricing and when they'll be available?


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> First Attempt
> 
> Left a gap because I am deciding whether to add some stuff. Not totally happy with all the bends but I only used 4 pieces of tube and have 6 left so I will organise a jig maybe for the multiple bends.


Jakusonfire,

Very nice! Well done. I hope my first attempt is half as good. Put up some pics when its finished! Hopefully will be joining the acrylic team soon.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shish0000*
> 
> Monsoon fittings look incredible anyone know of likely pricing and when they'll be available?


They will probably be here any day. Hopefully this coming week. My guess is they will cost the same as other monsoon fittings.


----------



## shish0000

Excellent anyone know where to get imperial diameter tubing in the.UK? (Other than the primochill lengths which seem pretty overpriced)


----------



## Sunreeper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> These are nice and I might use some of these in my build later.


Could you please tell me what fittings those are?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Im not sure if im allowed to share this so.....
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4
> 
> ....keep it quiet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you Thank you. I won't tell anyone I swear!
Click to expand...

Yeah don't worry we won't say a thing


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Could you please tell me what fittings those are?


The left fitting looks to be a Bitspower male/female G1/4 extender, maybe a 15mm or 20, the length is hard to tell, and fitting on the right is a male/female G1/4 rotary 90degree.


----------



## Sunreeper

I see but it doesn't look like it matches any of bitspowers fitting colors it's too shiny to be one of their matte black fittings so that's what got me curious. Is this a new fitting colour they have?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> I see but it doesn't look like it matches any of bitspowers fitting colors it's too shiny to be one of their matte black fittings so that's what got me curious. Is this a new fitting colour they have?


I don't believe so, all my Bitspower matte black fittings are NOT matte, they are just black....... Kinda pissed me off. Take a look at FCPU or PPCs, looks the same. The only matte parts on mine are the knurled areas.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Could you please tell me what fittings those are?
> Yeah don't worry we won't say a thing


Actually those are not bitspower they are made by the same company that makes bitspower but you don't have to pay for the name for the same quality.. the 20mm extender was 4.99 and that is arcylic tube with inner thread of G1/4.

YOu can find them here I bought several of them and they are the exact same as the bitspower even have the same o-rings and them and weigh the same..


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Actually those are not bitspower they are made by the same company that makes bitspower but you don't have to pay for the name for the same quality.. the 20mm extender was 4.99 and that is arcylic tube with inner thread of G1/4.
> 
> YOu can find them here I bought several of them and they are the exact same as the bitspower even have the same o-rings and them and weigh the same..


So I was "sorta" right, but I appreciate the correction, I don't *want* to give incorrect info.

Could you put a link up to them??


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> So I was "sorta" right, but I appreciate the correction, I don't *want* to give incorrect info.
> 
> Could you put a link up to them??


http://stores.ebay.com/Best-Deal-Market/14-Water-Cooling-/_i.html?_fsub=4710115011&_sid=872585961&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

they have them in this store and the guy is out of houston!!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> http://stores.ebay.com/Best-Deal-Market/14-Water-Cooling-/_i.html?_fsub=4710115011&_sid=872585961&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
> 
> they have them in this store and the guy is out of houston!!


Nice, thank you sir! Stuck that into the favorites till I can look it up at home. +rep


----------



## Sunreeper

Thanks so much seross! +rep as well


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Shhh!

Its a secret.

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure.mp4


----------



## Sunreeper

There goes my free time


----------



## szeged

been waiting on ppc's to get some of the new bitspower fittings in, but thats taking forever, how difficult are the c47 fittings to use? might go for those instead.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> been waiting on ppc's to get some of the new bitspower fittings in, but thats taking forever, how difficult are the c47 fittings to use? might go for those instead.


Remember to silicone grease the leading edge of the tube and they are fine. A very good fitting.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Remember to silicone grease the leading edge of the tube and they are fine. A very good fitting.


cool thanks, just got done talking to ppcs, they should get more fittings in a few hours actually, so i can hold on to my patience for a bit longer, but ill grab 15 or so c47s to go along with them, never know, i might like those better







thanks again









now i need them to restock alphacool ut60s


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> been waiting on ppc's to get some of the new bitspower fittings in, but thats taking forever, how difficult are the c47 fittings to use? might go for those instead.


"Easy as Cake .... Piece of Pie"......extra points if ya can quote the movie that's from.

Suggestions .... or "things I learned after doing it other ways which didn't work as well"









1. Wrap blue painter's tape around area to be cut..... makes it easy to ink ya mark, catches lotta the acrylic dust, strips some stragglies and helps prevent chipping when cutting. Caliper very handy for transferring measurements.

2. The little Hack Saws that EK, PC, Monsoon and other sell is ok, but if ya have a scroll saw or anything that lets ya hold tube with 2 hands, use it......waaaaay faster, waaaay easier and much better / cleaner cuts..... If ya cut not perpendicular or even , a dremel tool with grind wheel works extremely well. ...though once I started using scroll saw, didn't need. Some cuts like the 36mm piece I had left and used to make a 26mm tube woulda been a real pain w/ the hack saw.

3. Skip the red plastic reamer thingie ya see in all the WC shops and get the HDX085 from HomeDeport or ya local hardware store.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inner-Outer-Reamer-HDX085/204218601#

4. Once around on the inside to remove any burrs or straggling / hanging shards and 2-3 times on the outside with the HDX tool to set the bevel will make insertion easy and no worries about edges or shards cutting O-rings or something coming off and floating thru ya system forever.

5. Give the edge a few (3-4 ) short swipes across Black 320 wet sand paper afterwards

6. Rinse tube..... I set my saw up on kitchen counter then ran tap water thru and around tube to get rid of dust. Final rinse in distilled.

7. If dry by the time ya get around to assemble, dip tube / fitting in water prior to insertion, slides in w/ ease.

8. If in doubt, cut long rather than short.... if ya need to trim 2-3mm, the dremel works great.

9. Be aware that screwing ya C47s and other fittings in and out can shake loose some paint flakes from rad and fitting .... I found them in my CPU block afterwards (reverse flush thru block only worked fine to remove).... And yes, I flushed before assembly.

If ya short on C47's I have 5 or 6 Matte Black) left over if that's a match and ya get desperate and wanna finish over the holidays .... I wiped out FCPU and then grabbed 16 from PPCs....few others too C68 and few odds and ends.....outta 88 fittings have maybe 10-12 left

Stumbled on this today .... Monsoon Toolkits in stock

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g/c133/s2087/list/p1/b213/Monsoon-PC_Tools-Rigid_Tubing_Tools-Page1.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> "Easy as Cake .... Piece of Pie"......extra points if ya can quote the movie that's from


Kim Coates in Battlefield Earth.


----------



## jnims29

Short circuit


----------



## Apocalypse Maow

^ this


----------



## B NEGATIVE

geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_2.mp4

geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_Heatgun_Kit.mp4


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_2.mp4
> 
> geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_Heatgun_Kit.mp4


Thanks again!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> "Easy as Cake .... Piece of Pie"......extra points if ya can quote the movie that's from.


I remember it from the Space Odyssey sequel, but google shows several more movies using this play on words.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I was thinking whole ten yards on the movie quotes


----------



## JackNaylorPE

It was "2010" ..... Russian Cosmonaut to Roy Schedier's character.... cuda been in other stuff


----------



## lowfat

The Monsoon mandrel 1 & 2 videos were awesome. This bending kit is going to make bending ridiculously easy to how I was doing it before.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The Monsoon mandrel 1 & 2 videos were awesome. This bending kit is going to make bending ridiculously easy to how I was doing it before.


You can see why I was so keen now.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The Monsoon mandrel 1 & 2 videos were awesome. This bending kit is going to make bending ridiculously easy to how I was doing it before.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The Monsoon mandrel 1 & 2 videos were awesome. This bending kit is going to make bending ridiculously easy to how I was doing it before.
> 
> 
> 
> You can see why I was so keen now.
Click to expand...

so you guys think that monsoon kit is a good buy. I was just going to get the bending mandrels and the measuring tools but it was so hard to resist the entire kit for $80. Do you guys think the heat gun is any good. It got to my house today so I will post some pics when I get home. I hope I made a good purchase.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> so you guys think that monsoon kit is a good buy. I was just going to get the bending mandrels and the measuring tools but it was so hard to resist the entire kit for $80. Do you guys think the heat gun is any good. It got to my house today so I will post some pics when I get home. I hope I made a good purchase.


Definitely yes. And watch the videos. There is a lot of good information. Hopefully we will see move people doing parallel lines w/ great bends as he makes lays out the information great. Although he does tend to talk a whole lot.









I got the heatgun even though I already have a decent one.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> so you guys think that monsoon kit is a good buy. I was just going to get the bending mandrels and the measuring tools but it was so hard to resist the entire kit for $80. Do you guys think the heat gun is any good. It got to my house today so I will post some pics when I get home. I hope I made a good purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely yes. And watch the videos. There is a lot of good information. Hopefully we will see move people doing parallel lines w/ great bends as he makes lays out the information great. Although he does tend to talk a whole lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the heatgun even though I already have a decent one.
Click to expand...

ok cool thanks. Ya I started adding some of the individual items to my cart and then I saw the entire kit and it was too hard to pass up for the price. I'm really excited. i have 8 days off from work starting tonight and I got my package from fcpu today. I got the 16mm od ek tubing with the black ek fittings. Hopefully the tubing size wont look small in my sth10.


----------



## avielcs

Can send a picture of those ek 16 os fittings on the blocks please?
I would like to see how they look


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Can send a picture of those ek 16 os fittings on the blocks please?
> I would like to see how they look


yes i just got home and opened the package. this kit is so cool. it's so complete. i really like the measuring rulers and mandrels. i am trying to find a camera now to show some pics. i will try and get some on a block for you tonight. i guess they do look a little boring but i don't really want big flashy fittings anyway. i am going for a clean black and white build and I think they will look really nice especially with some pastel white coolant


----------



## szeged

first draft of my loop done, will go back and fix some messed up bends tomorrow


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> first draft of my loop done, will go back and fix some messed up bends tomorrow


Who's fittings did you use sir?? And is that 12mm or 16mm?


----------



## Jetskyer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Who's fittings did you use sir?? And is that 12mm or 16mm?


Looks like the bitspower rigid compression fittings with 12mm acrylic pipe.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Who's fittings did you use sir?? And is that 12mm or 16mm?


bitspower matte black multi link enhance fittings, 12mm tubing.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> bitspower matte black multi link enhance fittings, 12mm tubing.


Thank you sir!


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Szeged,

Awesome job mate!! Well done. Looks great. Love the long runs. I have a few to do as well.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Szeged,
> 
> Awesome job mate!! Well done. Looks great. Love the long runs. I have a few to do as well.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Rob


thanks







going back today and fixing that very obvious wrong bend in the front lol. gotta order more acrylic lol.







left it leak testing all night, so far so good.


----------



## ccRicers

What are the common diameters for acrylic tubes? I'd like to get into using them someday, maybe not bending yet but for straight fits and fittings for the turns. I have 1/2" ID 3/4" OD fittings but I can't find a lot of places that sell acrylic in that size, nor the metric equivalent.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> What are the common diameters for acrylic tubes? I'd like to get into using them someday, maybe not bending yet but for straight fits and fittings for the turns. I have 1/2" ID 3/4" OD fittings but I can't find a lot of places that sell acrylic in that size, nor the metric equivalent.


12mm and 16mm OD are metric standard, and I believe the only one for inch standard is 1/2". And there are NO fittings right now that work for both types (rigid & soft) of tubing without switching a part of the fitting.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> What are the common diameters for acrylic tubes? I'd like to get into using them someday, maybe not bending yet but for straight fits and fittings for the turns. I have 1/2" ID 3/4" OD fittings but I can't find a lot of places that sell acrylic in that size, nor the metric equivalent.


Where did you get fittings that size? Are they fittings for rigid pipe?

You can't use fittings made for flexible tubing on acrylic tubing. You have to use fittings for rigid pipe, like for copper tubing for example.

All that said, most any acrylic tubing supplier will have it in a variety of sizes ...

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-hollow-tubing/=pz88wd



I imagine that 1/8" thick walled tubing would be a bit different to heat & bend.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Where did you get fittings that size? Are they fittings for rigid pipe?
> 
> You can't use fittings made for flexible tubing on acrylic tubing. You have to use fittings for rigid pipe, like for copper tubing for example.
> 
> All that said, most any acrylic tubing supplier will have it in a variety of sizes ...
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-hollow-tubing/=pz88wd
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine that 1/8" thick walled tubing would be a bit different to heat & bend.


Oh, I didn't know there were special fittings for rigid tubing. I thought you could use the same as long as the diameters fit. Something new to me







I just checked out FrozenCPU and saw there indeed was a category for rigid tubing connectors in 12mm and 16mm. You can still use the rotary adapters as long as the thread is the same, right?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> Oh, I didn't know there were special fittings for rigid tubing. I thought you could use the same as long as the diameters fit. Something new to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just checked out FrozenCPU and saw there indeed was a category for rigid tubing connectors in 12mm and 16mm. You can still use the rotary adapters as long as the thread is the same, right?


Yeah, all of the rigid acrylic fittings are standard G 1/4 thread, so work just fine with standard elbows / extensions if you need them. You may not need any angle fittings at all though, as acrylic can be bent to tighter turns than flexible hose can. Not quite as tight as a 90 degree fitting, but pretty close.

I suggest you read the first post of this thread. Most everything you might need to know is there.

Though I'm thinking that 1st post might ought to be updated with info about the Monsoon bending kit (& Monsoon tubing / fittings whenever they show up). Just a thought.


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, all of the rigid acrylic fittings are standard G 1/4 thread, so work just fine with standard elbows / extensions if you need them. You may not need any angle fittings at all though, as acrylic can be bent to tighter turns than flexible hose can. Not quite as tight as a 90 degree fitting, but pretty close.
> 
> I suggest you read the first post of this thread. Most everything you might need to know is there.
> 
> Though I'm thinking that 1st post might ought to be updated with info about the Monsoon bending kit (& Monsoon tubing / fittings whenever they show up). Just a thought.


Thanks, I gotta re-read that post. I saw the Monsoon kit a couple of days ago and it looks real convenient so I don't have to shop around often. But I'm probably not going to buy it soon since I have just started with planning my loop with flexible tubing and see how well that works for me first. I just bought a bunch of fittings for the tubing and don't want to spend much more again


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> going back today and fixing that very obvious wrong bend in the front lol. gotta order more acrylic lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> left it leak testing all night, so far so good.


I am not seeing the wrong bend, sorry! Looks great in that case. It is a beast. Thinking of the TH10









Will you be using coolant, distilled water or dye at all? Personally I like clear.

Happy New Year.

Rob


----------



## szeged

gonna be using distilled with mayhems red dye


----------



## Hefner

Can anyone give me the width of the primochill rigid compression fittings? Trying to match the ones I ordered with some monsoon angled fittings. thanks


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Can anyone give me the width of the primochill rigid compression fittings? Trying to match the ones I ordered with some monsoon angled fittings. thanks


The outside compression ring has a diameter of 24mm.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Can anyone give me the width of the primochill rigid compression fittings? Trying to match the ones I ordered with some monsoon angled fittings. thanks


iirc, they were 24mm the last time someone asked.

D.

ninja'd by lowfat . . . . . again


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> You can still use the rotary adapters as long as the thread is the same, right?


Be aware that Bitspower makes both tube attachment fittings (C47 / C68) and a broad catalog of G-1/4 fittings from elbows, tees, rotaries, wyes, bulkhead fitings / plugs etc......however, while the tube attachment fittings from other vendors will be a thread match to the Bitspower stuff, they are generally not an aesthetic or material match.

However, peeps have drilled out the Bitspower Fittings (12.0 mm) to fit 1/2 " (12.7 mm) acrylic tube which is readily available in US .... I used like 32 C47s and C68's fittings in my build ....wuda had to drill out 32 fittings and replace 64 O-rings .....


----------



## erayser

No love in my build thread, so I'll post these here. Not perfect... but happy how turned out.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> No love in my build thread, so I'll post these here. Not perfect... but happy how turned out.


Holy Crap









That is friggin awesome! You would have to be happy with that! You Sir have talent


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Holy Crap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is friggin awesome! You would have to be happy with that! You Sir have talent


Thank you... There are some right angles I couldn't get perfect... and I didn't have any spare tubing to start over.. LOL. I took the picture in an angle were it hides my mistakes.









Maybe next time... I'll invest in the Monsoon bending tool set.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Thank you... There are some right angles I couldn't get perfect... and I didn't have any spare tubing to start over.. LOL. I took the picture in an angle were it hides my mistakes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe next time... I'll invest in the Monsoon bending tool set.


Hahahaha selective picture angle. I keep saying it, but if mine comes out half as good I will be happy! Is that the black primochill acrylic tube? It looks like gun metal nickel coated copper ?????


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BelowAverageIQ*
> 
> Hahahaha selective picture angle. I keep saying it, but if mine comes out half as good I will be happy! Is that the black primochill acrylic tube? It looks like gun metal nickel coated copper ?????


It's the black primochill acrylic tubing. Once I pre-ordered my RIV Black Edition mobo, I put in my order for the black acrylic tubing and black revolvers.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> It's the black primochill acrylic tubing. Once I pre-ordered my RIV Black Edition mobo, I put in my order for the black acrylic tubing and black revolvers.


Very nice! Looks great! I just went to your build thread and had a peak. I cant believe they got such a nice finish on the black tube!

I will be using the dark blue tube to match my black and blue theme. I have SLI Titans (Love your TRI-SLI 780's btw) in a 900D with an Asus P9X79-E WS board. Looking at changing the case to a Caselabs TH10.

I am also selling my 3 x 24" Asus 120Hz screens with triple stand and going to a Overlord 27" 2560x1440 screen hopefully that can overclock to 120Hz.

Thank you again for sharing the pics, an inspiration.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> It's the black primochill acrylic tubing. *Once I pre-ordered my RIV Black Edition mobo*, I put in my order for the black acrylic tubing and black revolvers.


I've been seeking the black RIVE since it was announced... Lucky devil.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I finally bought some acrylic for my new build. It took me a while to decide on either the crystal link fittings, or the Primochill. I finally concluded that I liked the smaller, tapered look of the Bitspower fittings over the oval Primochill.

And many thanks to B Negative for creating this thread.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/PPCs122613Order.jpg.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I finally bought some acrylic for my new build. It took me a while to decide on either the crystal link fittings, or the Primochill. I finally concluded that I liked the smaller, tapered look of the Bitspower fittings over the oval Primochill.
> 
> And many thanks to B Negative for creating this thread.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/PPCs122613Order.jpg.html


Uh, you know you bought the wrong bending kit for your tube size, right? The kit in that shopping cart is for the 16mm-5/8" OD tubing, and you have 12mm-1/2" tube.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Uh, you know you bought the wrong bending kit for your tube size, right? The kit in that shopping cart is for the 16mm-5/8" OD tubing, and you have 12mm-1/2" tube.


D'oh... I'll contact them first thing tomorrow and have it corrected before it's packed and shipped.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> D'oh... I'll contact them first thing tomorrow and have it corrected before it's packed and shipped.


Glad to help, hope you catch them in time, have fun with it, I just got mine on Monday.

Gonna start the next STH10 build after New Years. Just need the order with this ones 5 rads to show up.


----------



## BelowAverageIQ

I am loaning my kit out to a forum friend before I will even have a chance to use it









I have clear tubing and ghost fittings he said he will take to have a go. Has his doubts though. Will be interesting to get his thoughts.

I get long service leave next year (march, 2 months paid leave) and I hope to buy my TH10 and mod as well.

Cheers

Rob


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I finally bought some acrylic for my new build. It took me a while to decide on either the crystal link fittings, or the Primochill. I finally concluded that I liked the smaller, tapered look of the Bitspower fittings over the oval Primochill.
> 
> And many thanks to B Negative for creating this thread.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/PPCs122613Order.jpg.html


The funny thing is, the PHOTO of the kit in the shopping cart is of the 1/2"-12mm kit, that kit is blue anodized aluminum and the 5/8"-16mm kit is anodized red. BUT, the description of the item in the shopping cart is 1/2"x5/8" (16mm), LOL.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The outside compression ring has a diameter of 24mm.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> iirc, they were 24mm the last time someone asked.
> 
> D.
> 
> ninja'd by lowfat . . . . . again


Thank you. + rep


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The funny thing is, the PHOTO of the kit in the shopping cart is of the 1/2"-12mm kit, that kit is blue anodized aluminum and the 5/8"-16mm kit is anodized red. BUT, the description of the item in the shopping cart is 1/2"x5/8" (16mm), LOL.


Yeah, that was no bueno... Immediately after you pointed it out, I sent them a message and they were on top of it.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Yeah, that was no bueno... Immediately after you pointed it out, I sent them a message and they were on top of it.


Glad I was able to help sir, now post pics of the build!!!


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I've been seeking the black RIVE since it was announced... Lucky devil.


Newegg HQ is practically in you backyard... and they have it in stock. I always get the cheapest shipping option, and I get my order next day... and you live closer.









Anyhow... I posted a pic last night after I finished my acrylic loop, but since I suck with my wife's SLR in low lighting... I took a better pic today.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

That looks incredible. I intentionally plan on putting squiggles in my acrylic loop, to coincide with the semi organic design of my build. I'm really looking forward to getting my feet wet with this acrylic bending... But I have a feeling that I'll end up being wet behind the ears instead.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Glad I was able to help sir, now post pics of the build!!!


I have a build page already. I just haven't linked it to my sig yet, because of my work situation and lack of activity for almost 2 months now. It's in the Intel forum under the build name "The Liquidator".


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The Monsoon mandrel 1 & 2 videos were awesome. This bending kit is going to make bending ridiculously easy to how I was doing it before.
> 
> 
> 
> You can see why I was so keen now.
Click to expand...

Just got mine last night. While I'll be using 12mm tubing and bitspower fittings (new ones that Primo has been crying about). There is so much to this kit it's insane. So well thought out, simple, and SO damn cheap compared to any other tool I've ever bought for what it can do. I mean.... this kit is worth at least 3x what I paid for it, if not more. Geno is gonna revolutionize watercooling with this kit and his new fittings.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Just got mine last night. While I'll be using 12mm tubing and bitspower fittings *(new ones that Primo has been crying about)*. There is so much to this kit it's insane. So well thought out, simple, and SO damn cheap compared to any other tool I've ever bought for what it can do. I mean.... this kit is worth at least 3x what I paid for it, if not more. Geno is gonna revolutionize watercooling with this kit and his new fittings.


Do tell?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The Monsoon mandrel 1 & 2 videos were awesome. This bending kit is going to make bending ridiculously easy to how I was doing it before.
> 
> 
> 
> You can see why I was so keen now.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just got mine last night. While I'll be using 12mm tubing and bitspower fittings (new ones that Primo has been crying about). There is so much to this kit it's insane. So well thought out, simple, and SO damn cheap compared to any other tool I've ever bought for what it can do. I mean.... this kit is worth at least 3x what I paid for it, if not more. Geno is gonna revolutionize watercooling with this kit and his new fittings.
Click to expand...

I know,the sad thing is that he makes next to nothing on them,the retailers make the profit...

I have been pushing this kit for a long time,you can see why now.

I will be renting my kit out on short term loans for those in the UK.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

OP updated with videos for the Monsoon kits and the Buna N cord.


----------



## shish0000

How much will you be charging to rent the kit B NEG?


----------



## blasterspike

Effects of denaturated ethyl alcohol





This is an E22 tube. It had a white patina inside, right on the curve and I thought that I could have cleaned it with alcohol. Very strange chemical reaction...

These are my advices to who wants to take the road of the acrylic tubes:
- buy more tubes than you need. You will use them to practise on making curves.
- use hand soap to make the silicon tube more slippery when you need to remove it when you have more than one curve
- unless you have made an appropriate tool, take measures with a ruler and an iron wire for curves. Then report on a white paper so when the tube will be malleable, just lean the tube on it and make the curve
- when you have taken the measure where you need to make the curve, heat the tube even 3-4cm before and after. More the tube is malleable, easier for you is to make the curve
- use the heat gun at the maximum power
- keep a distance of 20cm circa from the heat gun, so you increase the heat area but you are still close enough to heat the tube fast
- if you have seen that you have done a mistake on a curve, you can still adjust it. Insert againt the silicon tube with the help of the hand soap, then heat around the curve on a wide area. My advice is to keep rotating the tube only on one end this time, otherwise with both hands you will put the tube to an unwanted twisting.

It would be great to add other users advices and mine to the first post, as this had become the official thread for acrylic bending.
Waiting for someone to do a video on how to bend an acrylic tube on a real PC (not the one that did Primochill on YouTube).

Just my 2 cents


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blasterspike*
> 
> Effects of denaturated ethyl alcohol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is an E22 tube. It had a white patina inside, right on the curve and I thought that I could have cleaned it with alcohol. Very strange chemical reaction...


This is a video from 2008. Not sure if this guy is still around, but he shows on video what ethyl alcohol does to heat treated acrylic.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8MEhbH6DK4


----------



## zmegati

My wife is a chemist and she says you are a full









This is a tipical chemical reaction!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah, alcohol and acrylic don't mix.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prtuc2*
> 
> [...]
> When buying reservoir make sure you got enough space to fit. Some reservoir are design for certain pump only, so make sure you read everything through before making a purchase. *Note: any acrylic product do not put alcohol inside or in contact with or else the acrylic product became dry and cracks. Here is an image with alcohol on acrylic product*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> This is a video from 2008. Not sure if this guy is still around, but he shows on video what ethyl alcohol does to heat treated acrylic.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8MEhbH6DK4


Pretty wild to watch it happening like that.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Ahem....



No alcohol with acrylic,101.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Primochill specifically voids there warranty if any alcohols including ethylene glycol is used.
Quote:


> With the use of different components, materials, fluids, and flow rates, results may vary with the appearance of your tubing. Rigid Acrylic Tube is designed to work with a large variety of cooling components, however the use of alcohols, Ethylene Glycol and as well as any other harmful chemicals is strictly prohibited and will void your warranty. PrimoChill is not responsible for any damage caused by or when using this product. Please use at your own risk.


----------



## ModestMeowth

Frosted my Primochill tubing, pastel doesn't look to good so likely will switch to just a dye.


----------



## Hefner

Anyone in Europe willing to loan me a Monsoon hardline kit? Of course I'll pay shipping and a fee.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Anyone in Europe willing to loan me a Monsoon hardline kit? Of course I'll pay shipping and a fee.


B Neg is probably the only person in Europe that has one yet. Assuming he actually has recieve it.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Primochill specifically voids there warranty if any alcohols including ethylene glycol is used.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> With the use of different components, materials, fluids, and flow rates, results may vary with the appearance of your tubing. Rigid Acrylic Tube is designed to work with a large variety of cooling components, however the use of alcohols, Ethylene Glycol and as well as any other harmful chemicals is strictly prohibited and will void your warranty. PrimoChill is not responsible for any damage caused by or when using this product. Please use at your own risk.
Click to expand...

That's because Ethylene Glycol is garbage. Bad for the environment, poisonous to pets and humans, doesn't cool as well as regular distilled in open loops, the list goes on. I tried a ethylene glycol mix last year just to see how it would do. After 1 month I had this green/black sludge that ate it's way into my reservoir. Nothing would kill it. Not hot sauce, boiling it, mineral spirits, etc. It wouldn't come off, so I had to toss that reservoir.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Anyone in Europe willing to loan me a Monsoon hardline kit? Of course I'll pay shipping and a fee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B Neg is probably the only person in Europe that has one yet. Assuming he actually has recieve it.
Click to expand...

Due this week,shipping over Xmas is crap tbh...

I spoke with Hef in PM,he is in the queue for it.

If anyone else is interested,I will be doing short term rental for UK/EU members on here with a long standing account,all you will need to do is pay for shipping both ways and leave a security deposit that will be refunded on receipt of the kit back to me.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Anyone in Europe willing to loan me a Monsoon hardline kit? Of course I'll pay shipping and a fee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B Neg is probably the only person in Europe that has one yet. Assuming he actually has recieve it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Due this week,shipping over Xmas is crap tbh...
> 
> I spoke with Hef in PM,he is in the queue for it.
> 
> If anyone else is interested,I will be doing short term rental for UK/EU members on here with a long standing account,all you will need to do is pay for shipping both ways and leave a security deposit that will be refunded on receipt of the kit back to me.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a pretty nice deal, actually!


----------



## Daggi

My mandrel kit is at the post office and I hope I'll be back home before it closes tomorrow


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> My mandrel kit is at the post office and I hope I'll be back home before it closes tomorrow


Mine just the Canadian border yesterday and I ordered mine the day it showed in stock. Still at least another week for mine.


----------



## szeged

The joys of living near ppcs lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Anyone in Europe willing to loan me a Monsoon hardline kit? Of course I'll pay shipping and a fee.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B Neg is probably the only person in Europe that has one yet. Assuming he actually has recieve it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Due this week,shipping over Xmas is crap tbh...
> 
> I spoke with Hef in PM,he is in the queue for it.
> 
> If anyone else is interested,I will be doing short term rental for UK/EU members on here with a long standing account,all you will need to do is pay for shipping both ways and leave a security deposit that will be refunded on receipt of the kit back to me.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sounds like a pretty nice deal, actually!
Click to expand...

Its what Monsoon wanted to do with the kits for other retailers but it seems they let him down badly so I am willing to help him out as much as i can in the UK/EU except i dont need to make a profit,im just helping the community the best i can.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> That's because Ethylene Glycol is garbage. Bad for the environment, poisonous to pets and humans, doesn't cool as well as regular distilled in open loops, the list goes on. I tried a ethylene glycol mix last year just to see how it would do. After 1 month I had this green/black sludge that ate it's way into my reservoir. Nothing would kill it. Not hot sauce, boiling it, mineral spirits, etc. It wouldn't come off, so I had to toss that reservoir.


Yet, you see many peeps here on OCN who say it doesn't harm anything and works great..... personally, I wouldn't go near it. I'm quite happy with engineered coolants that come with a warranty have better aesthetics and, to my measurements after 5 days in DW before switching, I had the exact same Delta T (to the tenth of a degree) as I had with the pastel as I had on DW.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I've brought it up a couple times in these forums before, often resulting in someone trying to argue with me about it, but in testing done where I work we've found that 100% Ethylene Glycol will do the _exact_ same thing to acrylic as isopropyl or denatured alcohol will. At the levels typically found in coolants people don't usually report having issues, but there was one topic posted here not long ago I do recall where Thermaltake's BigWater UV Green Coolant was believed to have damaged the acrylic in a reservoir and a flow meter.

Personally, if anyone came near anything of mine made with acrylic with any product containing any amount of alcohol or ethylene glycol I would totally go ballistic.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModestMeowth*
> 
> 
> Frosted my Primochill tubing, pastel doesn't look to good so likely will switch to just a dye.


The frosting looks good. But I think your over complicated your loop. I think you could have eliminated a good chunk of the tubing w/ a bit more planning.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The frosting looks good. But I think your over complicated your loop. I think you could have eliminated a good chunk of the tubing w/ a bit more planning.


^ Definitely this^


----------



## Hefner

Yeah he could've used more tubing if planned better but regardless I think that loop looks awesome! 10x better than any non-acrylic tubing build if you ask me.

+rep for B Negative.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I've brought it up a couple times in these forums before, often resulting in someone trying to argue with me about it, but in testing done where I work we've found that 100% Ethylene Glycol will do the _exact_ same thing to acrylic as isopropyl or denatured alcohol will. At the levels typically found in coolants people don't usually report having issues, but there was one topic posted here not long ago I do recall where Thermaltake's BigWater UV Green Coolant was believed to have damaged the acrylic in a reservoir and a flow meter.
> 
> Personally, if anyone came near anything of mine made with acrylic with any product containing any amount of alcohol or ethylene glycol I would totally go ballistic:


Just to be safe .... I want you to empty your liquor cabinet and mail all the contents to my house where I will lock it up or safely dispose of same.


----------



## ModestMeowth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> ^ Definitely this^


Yeah I know this, my goal was to get the GPU after the radiators which is why its all crazy but hey I dig it so its all good


----------



## Sunreeper

The component order has a negligible effect on temperature the only important order that you have to follow is that the reservoir should always be above or in front of the pump besides that order should be purely determined by aesthetics


----------



## Daggi

The mailman was very kind to deliver my package today


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> The mailman was very kind to deliver my package today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ooooo, the kit for 16mm-5/8" tube, nice. Gonna see a big tube build.


----------



## Biggu

Im not sure if it got posted yet but I find it very helpful to buy extra fittings and take the orings out to use for mockup to get the bends right. It is also useful for the final fit to push the tube into the fitting with out orings and then use a thin sharpie to make a line on the tube that way at final fit you know its all the way pushed in the fitting.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Im not sure if it got posted yet but I find it very helpful to buy extra fittings and take the orings out to use for mockup to get the bends right. It is also useful for the final fit to push the tube into the fitting with out orings and then use a thin sharpie to make a line on the tube that way at final fit you know its all the way pushed in the fitting.


Use a pencil, it rubs right off when you're done . . . . sharpie doesn't.

D.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> Im not sure if it got posted yet but I find it very helpful to buy extra fittings and take the orings out to use for mockup to get the bends right. It is also useful for the final fit to push the tube into the fitting with out orings and then use a thin sharpie to make a line on the tube that way at final fit you know its all the way pushed in the fitting.


Don't ya "see" the sharpie mark ?

I used painter's tape on my tube for the marks.... keeping in mind that the insertion depth was 8mm.


----------



## DaaQ

Is there any update or info when the "Measure & Mandrels" part 3 video might be out?


----------



## Daggi

Having fun with Autodesk at work


----------



## JackNaylorPE

looks familiar .... better do a patent search b4 ya go to production


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> looks familiar .... better do a patent search b4 ya go to production


Who said anything about production. Was drawing them for fun that's all.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Ooooo, the kit for 16mm-5/8" tube, nice. Gonna see a big tube build.


Did some test bending today and i was surprised how easy it was. The Moonson mandrels is worth the money


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Who said anything about production. Was drawing them for fun that's all.


was teazing









I did all my loop layouts, parts list, cable diagrams, mods, bracket designs etc in AutoCAD 14


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> was teazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did all my loop layouts, parts list, cable diagrams, mods, bracket designs etc in AutoCAD 14


----------



## Tempest2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blasterspike*
> 
> Effects of denaturated ethyl alcohol


Yikes... about 11 days ago I used a cotton ball and 70% isopropyl to clean some tape residue off of my EK bay res (plexi). I then dried it with a paper towel. Not sure if that's the same thing, but I'll need to check it for damage tonight.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Who said anything about production. Was drawing them for fun that's all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was teazing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did all my loop layouts, parts list, cable diagrams, mods, bracket designs etc in AutoCAD 14
Click to expand...

Solidworks for me..or CATIA.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Solidworks for me..or CATIA.


My vendor keeps tempting me try Solidworks but not really suited to my field ..... plus requires WS card so , even tho my opportunities are rare, I still enjoy using a hot CAD box to run some games now and then to blow off steam.


----------



## Inviso

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_3.mp4

Gonna go ahead and ninja post this before BNeg.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Solidworks for me..or CATIA.
> 
> 
> 
> My vendor keeps tempting me try Solidworks but not really suited to my field ..... plus requires WS card so , even tho my opportunities are rare, I still enjoy using a hot CAD box to run some games now and then to blow off steam.
Click to expand...

I dont use workstation cards for the rendering,I farm it all to the CPU's,24 cores= done very quickly. Why do you think SW needs a WS card?
I also game on my SR2....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont use workstation cards for the rendering,I farm it all to the CPU's,24 cores= done very quickly. Why do you think SW needs a WS card?
> I also game on my SR2....


Technically, isn't it 24 THREADS? 12 cores? And software doesn't NEED a WS style card, but if you think those outdated 1366 procs do the rendering fast, stick a quadro 4000 card in and watch what happens, several orders of magnitude faster!! There's a reason the make optimized WS cards!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont use workstation cards for the rendering,I farm it all to the CPU's,24 cores= done very quickly. Why do you think SW needs a WS card?
> I also game on my SR2....
> 
> 
> 
> Technically, isn't it 24 THREADS? 12 cores? And software doesn't NEED a WS style card, but if you think those outdated 1366 procs do the rendering fast, stick a quadro 4000 card in and watch what happens, several orders of magnitude faster!! There's a reason the make optimized WS cards!!
Click to expand...

The OS sees them as cores,its a 12c/24t setup with a heavy OC

And they are hardly outdated.

As for the WS card,the GeForce cards are good too,all you are paying for for WS cards is firmware,drivers and support...not outright rendering performance.
There is nothing special that the WS cards get that the GeForce cards dont,both use CUDA and more often than not,the same chip underneath. the only advantage is double precision that the WS card has.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The OS sees them as cores,its a 12c/24t setup with a heavy OC
> 
> And they are hardly outdated.
> 
> As for the WS card,the GeForce cards are good too,all you are paying for for WS cards is firmware,drivers and support...not outright rendering performance.
> There is nothing special that the WS cards get that the GeForce cards dont,both use CUDA and more often than not,the same chip underneath. the only advantage is double precision that the WS card has.


And ECC memory and optimized drivers and firmware THAT give the outright rendering performance, yes, the cuda cores are the same, but to think there isn't a performance boost with them is silly. And actually, 1366 are very outdated, I didn't say useless, but they have been EOL for over two years.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The OS sees them as cores,its a 12c/24t setup with a heavy OC
> 
> And they are hardly outdated.
> 
> As for the WS card,the GeForce cards are good too,all you are paying for for WS cards is firmware,drivers and support...not outright rendering performance.
> There is nothing special that the WS cards get that the GeForce cards dont,both use CUDA and more often than not,the same chip underneath. the only advantage is double precision that the WS card has.
> 
> 
> 
> And ECC memory and optimized drivers and firmware THAT give the outright rendering performance, yes, the cuda cores are the same, but to think there isn't a performance boost with them is silly. And actually, 1366 are very outdated, I didn't say useless, but they have been EOL for over two years.
Click to expand...

If you want to see (while editing) 10-bit output or you you need the more video RAM for humongous still picture resolutions.you absolutely need a Quadro card. Otherwise it is a waste of money.
Do some research on WS cards,I ran my rig against my fathers work machine (dedicated CAD box),mine owned his to such a degree he tried to buy it off me.

As for EOL,the Titan is going EOL,does it make it less of a card? Nope.

Let me just leave this here..watch the EOL chip smoke eveything..









The Quadro cards aren't necessarily faster than Geforce models but with a quadro your ability to manipulate and load large cad files is going to be much more precise and fluid. Not worth 3-4 times the price tho....

Now,if you wish to discuss this further then by all means,start a thread and PM me the link,this is gone far off topic now


----------



## DapperDan795

Just a quick fact check: If I use the PrimoChill 1/2" OD tubes then the Monsoon 1/2" OD x 5/8" ID hardline kit would be what I want right?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DapperDan795*
> 
> Just a quick fact check: If I use the PrimoChill 1/2" OD tubes then the Monsoon 1/2" OD x 5/8" ID hardline kit would be what I want right?


Lol, you have that reversed, the monsoon kit you just said is 1/2"id x 5/8od, and you would need the monsoon kit that is 3/8id x 1/2od.

This is the one for Primochill 1/2" tubing
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22334/too-129/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Full_Bending_Kit_-_38_x_12_13mm.html


----------



## DapperDan795

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Lol, you have that reversed, the monsoon kit you just said is 1/2"id x 5/8od, and you would need the monsoon kit that is 3/8id x 1/2od.
> 
> This is the one for Primochill 1/2" tubing
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22334/too-129/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Full_Bending_Kit_-_38_x_12_13mm.html


lol thanks, good call!


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Don't ya "see" the sharpie mark ?
> 
> I used painter's tape on my tube for the marks.... keeping in mind that the insertion depth was 8mm.


Just use a thin sharpie, I prefer to see it since my fittings are push in and its my travel rig so I know if the tube moved out at all. It shouldnt move but its an easy way for me to tell.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Monsoon kit,some better shots and a look at the bend quality.

The more bends i do with this kit,the more I get the technique. You need to pull it round the former rather than push it in to the former,it stops any slight bulging and maintains the shape much better.









For me,this is the best methodology available now for acrylic tube,comprehensive and of a high quality.

The OP will be updated showing these in use.


----------



## cyphon

Looks like it is every bit of awesome that they were expected to be!


----------



## Hefner

Anyone knows when the hardline kit will hit the European market? I want to pick one of these up but due to financial reasons I'd like to avoid import fee/taxes/shipping and order within Europe. I also noticed that the 13mm kit which I need is sold out on frozenCPU/PPCs so I have to wait anyways









I'm in queue for the use of B's hardline kit though which gives some reassurance.


----------



## erayser

How long will bent acrylic tubing last. Like... I wouldn't reuse flexible tubing when I take apart my loop for maintenance. Would you recommend reusing bent acrylic tubing when you take apart your loop 6 to 12 months down the road for maintenance? or will I have to bend new acrylic? If so, I might have to invest in one of those monsoon bending kits.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Anyone knows when the hardline kit will hit the European market?


Aquatuning is the distributor for Monsoon in mainland Europe, and only orders sporadically. WatercoolingUK is distributor for UK. Geno said on Xtremesystems forum that there have been no orders yet for Europe.

You can better email AT and/or WCUK and ask their intentions. If they know people are interested in Hardline, they may order some, but if no one inquires then I think they won't bother.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> How long will bent acrylic tubing last. Like... I wouldn't reuse flexible tubing when I take apart my loop for maintenance. Would you recommend reusing bent acrylic tubing when you take apart your loop 6 to 12 months down the road for maintenance? or will I have to bend new acrylic? If so, I might have to invest in one of those monsoon bending kits.


The acrylic will stay good forever since no added plasticizers like flex tubing. Also if you get a high-end premix coolant you can go up to 3 years without maintenance. You'll probably have to do bends when you get new blocks though.


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> The acrylic will stay good forever since no added plasticizers like flex tubing. Also if you get a high-end premix coolant you cant go up to 3 years without maintenance. You'll probably have to do bends when you get new blocks though.


yep what he said!


----------



## Hefner

Can anyone tell what is the bend height of the 13mm 90° Monsoon mandrel? Gotta know since I got some tight bends and might have to get some angled fittings. Thanks in advance.


----------



## ozzy1925

whats the advantage of using new bp enhance multi-Link fittings over bp c47?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> whats the advantage of using new bp enhance multi-Link fittings over bp c47?


I have not yet used them, but I believe they are sort of a compression fitting sort of similar to function like the primochills but with an extra o-ring. At least from the picks that's what it looks like. They look a lot more compact than the primos for sure.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Part 3.

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_3.mp4


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_3.mp4
> 
> Gonna go ahead and ninja post this before BNeg.


Lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_3.mp4
> 
> Gonna go ahead and ninja post this before BNeg.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol
Click to expand...

Ah crap...I saw it too....


----------



## Inviso

Wooooo! Do I win an internets?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Can anyone tell what is the bend height of the 13mm 90° Monsoon mandrel? Gotta know since I got some tight bends and might have to get some angled fittings. Thanks in advance.


Don't have it on me but it's about 2 1/2 inches across by about 5 inches in height, though that won't really matter as you can only hand-bend acrylic tubing so far without it going silly. You'll be able to make just about any bend work by accurately measuring your tubing placement.


----------



## oelkanne

So Hello there =)

I dont Read every single Post but that is some kind of Interresting.. Rigth now I´m Searching for the Monsoon Stuff but couldnt find it somewhere exept parts of the whole Package =)

So I browsed 2 hrs or so an didnt get a Store that lists all Monsoon Parts...Tube´s Fitting´s and The Tool-kit. Is there something I´ve missed or am I just to Stupid for Searching









THX 4 Help


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> So Hello there =)
> 
> I dont Read every single Post but that is some kind of Interresting.. Rigth now I´m Searching for the Monsoon Stuff but couldnt find it somewhere exept parts of the whole Package =)
> 
> So I browsed 2 hrs or so an didnt get a Store that lists all Monsoon Parts...Tube´s Fitting´s and The Tool-kit. Is there something I´ve missed or am I just to Stupid for Searching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THX 4 Help


I don't believe that the fittings and tubing have been released yet, just the bending kits so far.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oelkanne*
> 
> So Hello there =)
> 
> I dont Read every single Post but that is some kind of Interresting.. Rigth now I´m Searching for the Monsoon Stuff but couldnt find it somewhere exept parts of the whole Package =)
> 
> So I browsed 2 hrs or so an didnt get a Store that lists all Monsoon Parts...Tube´s Fitting´s and The Tool-kit. Is there something I´ve missed or am I just to Stupid for Searching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THX 4 Help


Was asked only a few posts back








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Anyone knows when the hardline kit will hit the European market?
> 
> 
> 
> Aquatuning is the distributor for Monsoon in mainland Europe, and only orders sporadically. WatercoolingUK is distributor for UK. Geno said on Xtremesystems forum that there have been no orders yet for Europe.
> 
> You can better email AT and/or WCUK and ask their intentions. If they know people are interested in Hardline, they may order some, but if no one inquires then I think they won't bother.
Click to expand...

I will email Aquatuning later.


----------



## erayser

Thanks for the vids B NEGATIVE. I'll definately pick up a kit when I do my next loop maintenance, and change my tubing color. I'm satisfied on how my loop turned out with my free-hand bends... but this kit and your vids will definately help and make bending a lot easier.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Thanks for the vids B NEGATIVE. I'll definately pick up a kit when I do my next loop maintenance, and change my tubing color. I'm satisfied on how my loop turned out with my free-hand bends... but this kit and your vids will definately help and make bending a lot easier.


Not my vids mate,thats Geno from Monsoon walking you thru the kit he designed.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not my vids mate,thats Geno from Monsoon walking you thru the kit he designed.


Sorry... I meant posting links to the vids on the OP.








Very helpful...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont use workstation cards for the rendering,I farm it all to the CPU's,24 cores= done very quickly. Why do you think SW needs a WS card?
> I also game on my SR2....


Manufacturer's System Requirements page

http://www.solidworks.com/sw/support/videocardtesting.html

Tomshardware reviews ....Note they included gaming cards for Maya on the preceding page and all the CAD stuff....but indicate "Gaming Cards Not Supported" in the table.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-workstation-graphics-card,3493-9.html
Quote:


> SolidWorks 2013 is limited to workstation-class graphics cards. Unfortunately, the drivers we're using won't install on gaming boards, so we cannot include them. Additionally, if the software is run with non-certified drivers, there's supposed to be a quantifiable performance hit. The only exception is the version used by SPECapc 2013, which supposedly allows full use of SolidWorks 2013 whether the driver you're running is certified or not. We didn't bother testing, but rather used the certified drivers for this story.


I am aware you can overcome the driver issue, at least could in the past, but working and working effectively are two different things.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont use workstation cards for the rendering,I farm it all to the CPU's,24 cores= done very quickly. Why do you think SW needs a WS card?
> I also game on my SR2....
> 
> 
> 
> Manufacturer's System Requirements page
> 
> http://www.solidworks.com/sw/support/videocardtesting.html
> 
> Tomshardware reviews ....Note they included gaming cards for Maya on the preceding page and all the CAD stuff....but indicate "Gaming Cards Not Supported" in the table.
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/best-workstation-graphics-card,3493-9.html
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> SolidWorks 2013 is limited to workstation-class graphics cards. Unfortunately, the drivers we're using won't install on gaming boards, so we cannot include them. Additionally, if the software is run with non-certified drivers, there's supposed to be a quantifiable performance hit. The only exception is the version used by SPECapc 2013, which supposedly allows full use of SolidWorks 2013 whether the driver you're running is certified or not. We didn't bother testing, but rather used the certified drivers for this story.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am aware you can overcome the driver issue, at least could in the past, but working and working effectively are two different things.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Ive been a solidworks power user since release 97, im both certified and spend approx 6 hours of billable time on it per day. Ive used both high end nvidia gaming cards and nvidia workstation class cards and can assure you that both will work. there are some features that are intentionally crippled in the gaming card graphics driver (like realview) but aside from that - a good gaming card does everything quite well. For anyone who chooses to use a gaming with Solidworks, remember that you have a failsafe built into the software called "use software OpenGL". Its located in the options --> performance tab.
> 
> A decent gaming card has more then enough horsepower to power even heavy assemblies, games like crysis are far more demanding on hardware then your solidworks model.
> On the flip side, most workstation cards run games terribly; in fact I have yet to experience an exception.


From a Solidworks user.

I found this to be applicable to me also.

Solidworks doesnt _require_ a WS card,I have been using it for years without one. Will it run better with a WS? In heavy assembly work,yes. But the difference is minor.
You should check the Solidworks forums rather than using Tom's......


----------



## Peraklo

Let me thow in an amateur question, if it has not yet been answered.

When you have your whole system with acrylic working, how do you solve any leakage or hardware change? I mean, it is all made for a perfect fit, and since it is rigid, you cant just say lift a block to change the cpu... The pipes will not bend. How do you empty the system?

To explain myself, i am an amateur that yet has to build his first loop, and this is not a critical question, i like acrylic tubing and just want to be on the safe side.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peraklo*
> 
> Let me thow in an amateur question, if it has not yet been answered.
> 
> When you have your whole system with acrylic working, how do you solve any leakage or hardware change? I mean, it is all made for a perfect fit, and since it is rigid, you cant just say lift a block to change the cpu... The pipes will not bend. How do you empty the system?
> 
> To explain myself, i am an amateur that yet has to build his first loop, and this is not a critical question, i like acrylic tubing and just want to be on the safe side.


Lol, no problem. First off, you drain your system just like normal, with a drain plug that you should have plumbed into your system, hopefully near its lowest point.

As to changing a block or such, yes, it's isn't as easy to do as flexible tube, but the "rigid" acrylic tubing does have a little bit of "spring" in it, so you have the tiniest amount of give in it to undo your fitting and pull out one end of the tube, then the other end will come out easily. Remember, if it was assembled, it can be un-assembled!!


----------



## Peraklo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Peraklo*
> 
> Let me thow in an amateur question, if it has not yet been answered.
> 
> When you have your whole system with acrylic working, how do you solve any leakage or hardware change? I mean, it is all made for a perfect fit, and since it is rigid, you cant just say lift a block to change the cpu... The pipes will not bend. How do you empty the system?
> 
> To explain myself, i am an amateur that yet has to build his first loop, and this is not a critical question, i like acrylic tubing and just want to be on the safe side.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, no problem. First off, you drain your system just like normal, with a drain plug that you should have plumbed into your system, hopefully near its lowest point.
> 
> As to changing a block or such, yes, it's isn't as easy to do as flexible tube, but the "rigid" acrylic tubing does have a little bit of "spring" in it, so you have the tiniest amount of give in it to undo your fitting and pull out one end of the tube, then the other end will come out easily. Remember, if it was assembled, it can be un-assembled!!
Click to expand...

So basicaly, every change you do on acrylic system has to be done with it drained out... Im just hoping i will have my ideal hardware untill i start building the loop then... Sounds like a dangerous pain in the behind to do anything afterwards









My plan is to build it in a Node 304 itx case. The mobo is on the floor. So the drain plug should be drilled through the floor to be near the lowest point LoL.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Peraklo*
> 
> Let me thow in an amateur question, if it has not yet been answered.
> 
> When you have your whole system with acrylic working, how do you solve any leakage or hardware change? I mean, it is all made for a perfect fit, and since it is rigid, you cant just say lift a block to change the cpu... The pipes will not bend. How do you empty the system?
> 
> To explain myself, i am an amateur that yet has to build his first loop, and this is not a critical question, i like acrylic tubing and just want to be on the safe side.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, no problem. First off, you drain your system just like normal, with a drain plug that you should have plumbed into your system, hopefully near its lowest point.
> 
> As to changing a block or such, yes, it's isn't as easy to do as flexible tube, but the "rigid" acrylic tubing does have a little bit of "spring" in it, so you have the tiniest amount of give in it to undo your fitting and pull out one end of the tube, then the other end will come out easily. *Remember, if it was assembled, it can be un-assembled*!!
Click to expand...

This.

Leakage should be a non issue if you have tested the loop for watertightness.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peraklo*
> 
> So basicaly, every change you do on acrylic system has to be done with it drained out... Im just hoping i will have my ideal hardware untill i start building the loop then... Sounds like a dangerous pain in the behind to do anything afterwards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My plan is to build it in a Node 304 itx case. The mobo is on the floor. So the drain plug should be drilled through the floor to be near the lowest point LoL.


Lol, if that's how you want it, sure.







but I would plumb a drain into the outlet of the pump with a T fitting and valve personally, an ITX system is thankfully light, so holding it at an angle to drain it wouldn't be as hard as say, a full ATX tower. There are always trade offs to going tiny!


----------



## Peraklo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Peraklo*
> 
> Let me thow in an amateur question, if it has not yet been answered.
> 
> When you have your whole system with acrylic working, how do you solve any leakage or hardware change? I mean, it is all made for a perfect fit, and since it is rigid, you cant just say lift a block to change the cpu... The pipes will not bend. How do you empty the system?
> 
> To explain myself, i am an amateur that yet has to build his first loop, and this is not a critical question, i like acrylic tubing and just want to be on the safe side.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, no problem. First off, you drain your system just like normal, with a drain plug that you should have plumbed into your system, hopefully near its lowest point.
> 
> As to changing a block or such, yes, it's isn't as easy to do as flexible tube, but the "rigid" acrylic tubing does have a little bit of "spring" in it, so you have the tiniest amount of give in it to undo your fitting and pull out one end of the tube, then the other end will come out easily. *Remember, if it was assembled, it can be un-assembled*!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This.
> 
> Leakage should be a non issue if you have tested the loop for watertightness.
Click to expand...

I should test the loop outside the box right? If true, i have to dissassemble it to fit onto the hardware... Then i am back to square one.

Unless you ment using the toilet paper to wrap the fittings...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peraklo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Peraklo*
> 
> Let me thow in an amateur question, if it has not yet been answered.
> 
> When you have your whole system with acrylic working, how do you solve any leakage or hardware change? I mean, it is all made for a perfect fit, and since it is rigid, you cant just say lift a block to change the cpu... The pipes will not bend. How do you empty the system?
> 
> To explain myself, i am an amateur that yet has to build his first loop, and this is not a critical question, i like acrylic tubing and just want to be on the safe side.
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, no problem. First off, you drain your system just like normal, with a drain plug that you should have plumbed into your system, hopefully near its lowest point.
> 
> As to changing a block or such, yes, it's isn't as easy to do as flexible tube, but the "rigid" acrylic tubing does have a little bit of "spring" in it, so you have the tiniest amount of give in it to undo your fitting and pull out one end of the tube, then the other end will come out easily. *Remember, if it was assembled, it can be un-assembled*!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This.
> 
> Leakage should be a non issue if you have tested the loop for watertightness.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I should test the loop outside the box right? If true, i have to dissassemble it to fit onto the hardware... Then i am back to square one.
> 
> Unless you ment using the toilet paper to wrap the fittings...
Click to expand...

Leaktest with everything fitted in place.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peraklo*
> 
> I should test the loop outside the box right? If true, i have to dissassemble it to fit onto the hardware... Then i am back to square one.
> 
> Unless you ment using the toilet paper to wrap the fittings...


When you do a leak test, you are testing all the blocks and fittings inside your case after everything is mounted and "ready" to use. A leak test should always be done with JUST your pump being powered, and NOTHING else. That way, if there does happen to be a leak from a faulty block, or loose fitting or something, you don't fry your expensive hardware.


----------



## Peraklo

OK, everyones replies noted and burned into my memory.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Magoo...like a boss.



Some shots from PARVUM's MAGNUS build that i went down to do some bendwork for while they got to work on my res for the S3


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You should check the Solidworks forums rather than using Tom's......


The software vendors lack of support was the key issue .....performance numbers on Toms and other sites were secondary tho in older tests (pre nVidia cutting GPGPU performance on gaming cards) nVidia did fairlry well .... now AMD has the edge there.

Again, Manufacturer's System Requirements page
http://www.solidworks.com/sw/support/videocardtesting.html
Quote:


> Ive been a solidworks power user since release 97, im both certified and spend approx 6 hours of billable time on it per day. Ive used both high end nvidia gaming cards and nvidia workstation class cards and can assure you that both will work.


There's the key .... I woukld have 0 billable hours as all government and corporate clients require deliverables in dwg format. Not really something oft used in my industry. It would just be something I farted around with once and a while for refinements in my own product designs.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You should check the Solidworks forums rather than using Tom's......
> 
> 
> 
> The software vendors lack of support was the key issue .....performance numbers on Toms and other sites were secondary tho in older tests (pre nVidia cutting GPGPU performance on gaming cards) nVidia did fairlry well .... now AMD has the edge there.
> 
> Again, Manufacturer's System Requirements page
> http://www.solidworks.com/sw/support/videocardtesting.html
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Ive been a solidworks power user since release 97, im both certified and spend approx 6 hours of billable time on it per day. Ive used both high end nvidia gaming cards and nvidia workstation class cards and can assure you that both will work.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There's the key .... I woukld have 0 billable hours as all government and corporate clients require deliverables in dwg format. Not really something oft used in my industry. It would just be something I farted around with once and a while for refinements in my own product designs.
Click to expand...

I totally agree,there is no support for gaming cards from Dassault Systemes but I mentioned that already,if you are in a 'mission critical' work environment then go workstation purely for the support

DWG? Solidworks is no good for you then,exporting/importing files is not its strong point.

That MSR is like a mobo QVL list for RAM.....worthless.
Solidworks doesnt even bother to test gaming cards,which is understandable from their point of view. Doesnt mean they dont work,there is very little difference between the WS card and Gaming card. The 7970 and firepro cards are so close that they share the same waterblock.

Seeing as I actually use Solidworks with gaming cards pretty much seals the whole 'it works' for me.

My PROT07YPE worklog is all Solidworks...





Res for my S3.





All on my SR2.


----------



## lowfat

The acrylic tubing work in the Magnus before was pretty terrible. Are you redoing any of the interior runs?

Got my bending kit this afternoon finally.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The acrylic tubing work in the Magnus before was pretty terrible. *Are you redoing any of the interior runs?*
> 
> Got my bending kit this afternoon finally.


Sadly not Lowfat......just those front 2 tubes that needed bending,they like the whole straight run thing....

Lovely pic as always.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> [...] Got my bending kit this afternoon finally.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image


Yeah, mine showed up today too. I bought the whole kit even though I didn't really need another heat gun or bending cord.



First thing I noticed is the bending cord is only ~15" long. That would sort of handicap you a bit. Glad I grabbed 3' from mcmaster-carr a while back.

I was wondering though, in what instance might someone make use of the 360 degree mandrel?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> [...] Got my bending kit this afternoon finally.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, mine showed up today too. I bought the whole kit even though I didn't really need another heat gun or bending cord.
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I noticed is the bending cord is only ~15" long. That would sort of handicap you a bit. Glad I grabbed 3' from mcmaster-carr a while back.
> 
> I was wondering though, in what instance might someone make use of the 360 degree mandrel?
Click to expand...

I've talked with Geno and he said he plans on making a video regarding the 360 mandrel, but I imagine it could help make loop-d-loos.... We'll just have to wait for his video on it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> [...] Got my bending kit this afternoon finally.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, mine showed up today too. I bought the whole kit even though I didn't really need another heat gun or bending cord.
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I noticed is the bending cord is only ~15" long. That would sort of handicap you a bit. Glad I grabbed 3' from mcmaster-carr a while back.
> 
> I was wondering though, in what instance might someone make use of the 360 degree mandrel?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've talked with Geno and he said he plans on making a video *regarding the 360 mandrel,* but I imagine it could help make loop-d-loos.... We'll just have to wait for his video on it.
Click to expand...

Im putting mine on a keyring....


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I totally agree,there is no support for gaming cards from Dassault Systemes but I mentioned that already,if you are in a 'mission critical' work environment then go workstation purely for the support
> 
> DWG? Solidworks is no good for you then,exporting/importing files is not its strong point.


Yes, in your situation makes total sense.... mine, no way to write off the expense or get a ROI. I can do everything I need to do in AutoCAD and that I can write off.


----------



## lowfat

My first impressions of the mandrels are not very high. I'm having way more trouble getting a nice smooth bend compared to my roll of tape mandrel. There is is also a lip bring created on the side of the tubing where it sides the edge of the mandrel during the bending process. I've wasted more tubing trying to get a single solid 90 degree bend done with the mandrel than I did on my entire first acrylic loop.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> My first impressions of the mandrels are not very high. I'm having way more trouble getting a nice smooth bend compared to my roll of tape mandrel. There is is also a lip bring created on the side of the tubing where it sides the edge of the mandrel during the bending process. I've wasted more tubing trying to get a single solid 90 degree bend done with the mandrel than I did on my entire first acrylic loop.


yikes........disappointing....

I remember BNEG was saying there is a little different technique with them...I think he said you pull it around the mandrel and don't push it into the mandrel...do not remember 100%


----------



## strong island 1

Finally got my packages. I only have my sisters iphone for a camera. I am broke. Someone asked for the 16mm fittings on a block so I did the best I could and took a couple. I have 4 6' pieces from usplastics for $9 and 160" from ek. This is the 16mm bending kit.


----------



## lowfat

I've tried about 20 90-degree bends. Unhappy with every single one. Everyone has the grove on the side and almost everyone has a horrible inside bend.


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've tried about 20 90-degree bends. Unhappy with every single one. Everyone has the grove on the side and almost everyone has a horrible inside bend.


I'm glad I bought the cheaper tubing for practice. 24' for $9 eases my mind on messing up a lot.


----------



## lowfat

Unfortunately due to my location I can't get tubing for cheap.


----------



## X-Nine

Did you set the mandrels up horizontally? Looking at the videos I see nothing but proper bends from Geno's work.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've tried about 20 90-degree bends. Unhappy with every single one. Everyone has the grove on the side and almost everyone has a horrible inside bend.


This is disappointing........


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've tried about 20 90-degree bends. Unhappy with every single one. Everyone has the grove on the side and almost everyone has a horrible inside bend.


It really sounds like you aren't heating it up enough Lowfat, just my opinion though sir. Can you take a couple of pics for us??


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It really sounds like you aren't heating it up enough Lowfat, just my opinion though sir. Can you take a couple of pics for us??


You may be right. The tubing is becoming too cool before I can set the bend properly.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It really sounds like you aren't heating it up enough Lowfat, just my opinion though sir. Can you take a couple of pics for us??
> 
> 
> 
> You may be right. The tubing is becoming too cool before I can set the bend properly.
Click to expand...

It took me a while to get a feel for using the mandrels . . . .

In my case, from watching the videos, where he keeps the heat on the tubing a little longer.

When I did that, it made the tubing so soft that the fabric impression from the gloves' texture transferred into the tubing where I was holding it against the mandrel.

I also got thumb "dents" or impressions on a few of the first tries.

For the tubing I was using, I found that keeping it about 3" above the heatgun while heating, and going to the mandrels as soon as the tube felt pretty "loose", and not waiting another 5 to 10 seconds or more, was the key to consistent bends with no deformations or uglies.

Also be sure to keep from "pulling" the tube "around" the mandrel, as opposed to bringing the tube to the mandrel, as you bend, as that causes the mandrel to sort of imprint itself.

Anyway, these were my observations from using them.

It was very frustrating at first with no acceptable results, but once I analyzed my procedure and tried some changes, I got it dialed in pretty well.

What you don't see and can't pick up on in the videos, and would be really hard for Geno to describe, is the "feel" or biofeedback he's responding to as he heats the tube and makes the bends.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> It really sounds like you aren't heating it up enough Lowfat, just my opinion though sir. Can you take a couple of pics for us??
> 
> 
> 
> You may be right. The tubing is becoming too cool before I can set the bend properly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It took me a while to get a feel for using the mandrels . . . .
> 
> In my case, from watching the videos, where he keeps the heat on the tubing a little longer.
> 
> When I did that, it made the tubing so soft that the fabric impression from the gloves' texture transferred into the tubing where I was holding it against the mandrel.
> 
> I also got thumb "dents" or impressions on a few of the first tries.
> 
> For the tubing I was using, I found that keeping it about 3" above the heatgun while heating, and going to the mandrels as soon as the tube felt pretty "loose", and not waiting another 5 to 10 seconds or more, was the key to consistent bends with no deformations or uglies.
> 
> *Also be sure to keep from "pulling" the tube "around" the mandrel*, as opposed to bringing the tube to the mandrel, as you bend, as that causes the mandrel to sort of imprint itself.
> 
> Anyway, these were my observations from using them.
> 
> It was very frustrating at first with no acceptable results, but once I analyzed my procedure and tried some changes, I got it dialed in pretty well.
> 
> What you don't see and can't pick up on in the videos, and would be really hard for Geno to describe, is the "feel" or biofeedback he's responding to as he heats the tube and makes the bends.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Not how i found it,I found pulling the tube round gave far better,consistent bends with no bulging. I feel that the curve is a little tight on these mandrels.

What tube are you using? I found the E22 tube to be the best performing.

There is no need to actually touch the heated part of the tube,if you look at the pic below,you can see my hand spacing when bending.


----------



## lowfat

I figured out what was meant by pulling the tube. It seemed to work a whole lot better. I was just doing a practice 180 and acicidently got the mandrel stuck inside the bend. It was too close to another bend. Going to have to reheat the tubing to get it out.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I figured out what was meant by pulling the tube. It seemed to work a whole lot better. I was just doing a practice 180 and acicidently got the mandrel stuck inside the bend. It was too close to another bend. Going to have to reheat the tubing to get it out.










Ooops. Lol, that's funny.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I figured out what was meant by pulling the tube. It seemed to work a whole lot better. I was just doing a practice 180 and acicidently got the mandrel stuck inside the bend. It was too close to another bend. Going to have to reheat the tubing to get it out.


Good work,it threw me for the first couple of bends but it was soon worked out.

How did you get the mandrel stuck?!?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I figured out what was meant by pulling the tube. It seemed to work a whole lot better. I was just doing a practice 180 and acicidently got the mandrel stuck inside the bend. It was too close to another bend. Going to have to reheat the tubing to get it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good work,it threw me for the first couple of bends but it was soon worked out.
> 
> How did you get the mandrel stuck?!?
Click to expand...

Pretty sure if you try to use that 360 jig you'll figure out pretty quick how you can get a mandrel stuck.

lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I figured out what was meant by pulling the tube. It seemed to work a whole lot better. I was just doing a practice 180 and acicidently got the mandrel stuck inside the bend. It was too close to another bend. Going to have to reheat the tubing to get it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good work,it threw me for the first couple of bends but it was soon worked out.
> 
> How did you get the mandrel stuck?!?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Pretty sure if you try to use that 360 jig you'll figure out pretty quick how you can get a mandrel stuck.
> 
> lol
Click to expand...

I had a quick play with it,didnt find it any harder to use than the rest,certainly no sticking.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I had a quick play with it,didnt find it any harder to use than the rest,certainly no sticking.


Sure looks to me that as soon as you turn more than 180 degrees around it it just isn't going to be able to come out once the tube cools.

Which is why I can't see a usefulness for it over using the 180 or other mandrels. It might have been neat if it was a spiral instead of a circle so you could twist it out and create a loop-de-loo.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I had a quick play with it,didnt find it any harder to use than the rest,certainly no sticking.
> 
> 
> 
> Sure looks to me that as soon as you turn more than 180 degrees around it it just isn't going to be able to come out once the tube cools.
> 
> Which is why I can't see a usefulness for it over using the 180 or other mandrels. It might have been neat if it was a spiral instead of a circle so you could twist it out and create a loop-de-loo.
Click to expand...

It more for use with multiple bends in a run,if making a jig for a whole length is a requirement.
Thats my understanding of it.

My 360 is going on a key ring


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It more for use with multiple bends in a run,if making a jig for a whole length is a requirement.
> Thats my understanding of it.
> 
> My 360 is going on a key ring


I could see how it would be useful for that. And since it is 360 you could add in really any other angle easily


----------



## luciddreamer124

All this feedback about the mandrels is awesome and very helpful! Can't wait to get my set so I can try out what you guys are describing.


----------



## Baron C

RE: Europe

I spoke with Aquatuning via e-mail and OCUK...
Appears they will stock kits sometime in next month or 2.

Which seems logical to me as I would presume they would have to wait for American market to get first product supply.


----------



## oelkanne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> RE: Europe
> 
> I spoke with Aquatuning via e-mail and OCUK...
> Appears they will stock kits sometime in next month or 2.
> 
> Which seems logical to me as I would presume they would have to wait for American market to get first product supply.


Yes...hopefully they get the fittings in time


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Just had a bit of a revelation regarding the 360 mandrel,I now use it to form the bends by rolling it round the mandrel im working on..good results so far!


----------



## Baron C

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just had a bit of a revelation regarding the 360 mandrel,I now use it to form the bends by rolling it round the mandrel im working on..good results so far!


Do you mean that your rolling the 360 around another mandrel ( e.g.90 degree) with the tube in the 90 degree?

Also Belated Happy New Year.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just had a bit of a revelation regarding the 360 mandrel,I now use it to form the bends by rolling it round the mandrel im working on..good results so far!


Hmm. Will give it a shot. Sounds like a good idea.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just had a bit of a revelation regarding the 360 mandrel,I now use it to form the bends by rolling it round the mandrel im working on..good results so far!


Nice! I'm going to have to give that a try myself.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just had a bit of a revelation regarding the 360 mandrel,I now use it to form the bends by rolling it round the mandrel im working on..good results so far!
> 
> 
> 
> Do you mean that your rolling the 360 around another mandrel ( e.g.90 degree) with the tube in the 90 degree?
> 
> Also Belated Happy New Year.
Click to expand...

Exactly.

I keep playing with the kit,trying new stuff....


----------



## ozzy1925

can we use this monsoon hardline pro bender 13mm kit with e22 12/10mm tubing?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> can we use this monsoon hardline pro bender 13mm kit with e22 12/10mm tubing?


Yes, it works perfectly with it.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baron C*
> 
> Do you mean that your rolling the 360 around another mandrel ( e.g.90 degree) with the tube in the 90 degree?
> 
> Also Belated Happy New Year.


I need a visual of that to see what you guys are talking about.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I need a visual of that to see what you guys are talking about.


Sounds like they are placing the heated tube in the angled mandrel and then taking the 360 and rolling over the top of the tube to 'press' or form it around the angled mandrel. Perhaps I misunderstood though?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Sounds like they are placing the heated tube in the angled mandrel and then taking the 360 and rolling over the top of the tube to 'press' or form it around the angled mandrel. Perhaps I misunderstood though?


Exactly that!!!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, it works perfectly with it.


thank you +rep


----------



## JMattes

Wahoo! After days of reading I am finally finished with all 168 pages.. now for some questions as I didn't take notes..

So in the US if you go with one of cheaper tube suppliers you are stuck using the push fittings correct? As the other measurements are in metric and it wouldn't fit into those fittings correct?

There were a few cheat sheets along the 168 page reads but nothing recent and complete.

I do have to say this has been a great read filled with amazing work!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Wahoo! After days of reading I am finally finished with all 168 pages.. now for some questions as I didn't take notes..
> 
> So in the US if you go with one of cheaper tube suppliers you are stuck using the push fittings correct? As the other measurements are in metric and it wouldn't fit into those fittings correct?
> 
> There were a few cheat sheets along the 168 page reads but nothing recent and complete.
> 
> I do have to say this has been a great read filled with amazing work!


Thanks,im glad I could help,the submissions for this thread have been excellent with many contributions.


----------



## JMattes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Thanks,im glad I could help,the submissions for this thread have been excellent with many contributions.


I was interested in an acrylic loop but didn't know how to even start. This thread is a great inspiration and looks so much better than flex tubes.. now to sell all my fittings and but some acrylic ones..

Need some.help figuring out what the best bang for your buck is in the US though.. tubes/fittings..


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I was interested in an acrylic loop but didn't know how to even start. This thread is a great inspiration and looks so much better than flex tubes.. now to sell all my fittings and but some acrylic ones..
> 
> Need some.help figuring out what the best bang for your buck is in the US though.. tubes/fittings..


the prices on tube and fitting in the US is all roughly the same in the end i believe.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> Wahoo! After days of reading I am finally finished with all 168 pages.. now for some questions as I didn't take notes..
> 
> So in the US if you go with one of cheaper tube suppliers you are stuck using the push fittings correct? As the other measurements are in metric and it wouldn't fit into those fittings correct?
> 
> There were a few cheat sheets along the 168 page reads but nothing recent and complete.
> 
> I do have to say this has been a great read filled with amazing work!


You can purchase Bitspower tube fittings from Performance PCS, along with e22 tubing. There's no word yet on when the Monsoon tubing/fittings will be released, but when they do become available I'm sure both PPC and FCPU will be selling them.


----------



## Inviso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> You can purchase Bitspower tube fittings from Performance PCS, along with e22 tubing. There's no word yet on when the Monsoon tubing/fittings will be released, but when they do become available I'm sure both PPC and FCPU will be selling them.


Last thing I saw is that Geno was just waiting on orders back from FCPU and PPC.

But considering as both owners and Geno were at CES all week, I doubt we will see much in the way of news until early next week at the earliest.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> You can purchase Bitspower tube fittings from Performance PCS, along with e22 tubing. There's no word yet on when the Monsoon tubing/fittings will be released, but when they do become available I'm sure both PPC and FCPU will be selling them.
> 
> 
> 
> Last thing I saw is that Geno was just waiting on orders back from FCPU and PPC.
> 
> But considering as both owners and Geno were at CES all week, I doubt we will see much in the way of news until early next week at the earliest.
Click to expand...

Ah, good info!


----------



## JMattes

I may hold out then as the kit looks so helpful it may be nice to do the hole loop with their equipment.

Depends on the price.

So what fittings work with the outside US acrylic vendors?
Anyone have a list of what works with what?

I may just use there's as test runs since it's cheap.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMattes*
> 
> I may hold out then as the kit looks so helpful it may be nice to do the hole loop with their equipment.
> 
> Depends on the price.
> 
> So what fittings work with the outside US acrylic vendors?
> Anyone have a list of what works with what?
> 
> I may just use there's as test runs since it's cheap.


I'm using Bitspower and e22. EK's fittings also work with e22. As far as Monsoon's stuff goes, I'm not sure but I think it's a bit different from everything else out there, though, I could be wrong.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I'm using Bitspower and e22. EK's fittings also work with e22. As far as Monsoon's stuff goes, I'm not sure but I think it's a bit different from everything else out there, though, I could be wrong.


Monsoon's fittings are going to work with either 13mm OD or 16mm OD.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I'm using Bitspower and e22. EK's fittings also work with e22. As far as Monsoon's stuff goes, I'm not sure but I think it's a bit different from everything else out there, though, I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon's fittings are going to work with either 13mm OD or 16mm OD.
Click to expand...

That's right. So yes, different from everything else out there, lol. Primochill uses 1/2 inch, EK and Bitspower use 12mm OD.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> That's right. So yes, different from everything else out there, lol. Primochill uses 1/2 inch, EK and Bitspower use 12mm OD.


1/2 inch = 13mm OD

Annoying inferior outdated imperial units makes things pretty damn confusing sometimes. C'mon America, drop the damn imperial system and go metric!


----------



## Inviso

Never gonna happen. Not with the state of the educational system in the US.

Or the government.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> That's right. So yes, different from everything else out there, lol. Primochill uses 1/2 inch, EK and Bitspower use 12mm OD.
> 
> 
> 
> 1/2 inch = 13mm OD
> 
> Annoying inferior outdated imperial units makes things pretty damn confusing sometimes. C'mon America, drop the damn imperial system and go metric!
Click to expand...

You are indeed correct. It's too early for conversions. I have to do Anesthesia conversions in two hours so I'm trying not to get into that before my morning coffee.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> Never gonna happen. Not with the state of the educational system in the US.
> 
> Or the government.


The children would be forever thankful. Metric is much easier to learn due to it's logical approach.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Monsoon's fittings are going to work with either 13mm OD or 16mm OD.


Monsoon's fittings are going to be able to use the compression rings of their existing fittings and it looks like the base/barb is going to be what's changed. Geno mentions it in the video with the 80 lb weight test.
I would wait to see what size tubing they will come out with.

For cheap practice tubing you can get 6' lengths from US Plastics and McMaster Carr. Just get a few Primochill rigid compressions for test fitting. They are little bit easier to use and measure off of. Closer to what Monsoon will be offering I think.

I'm mobile so I will try to find a link. I know there are some links further back in the thread from wermad and or ITDiva tho.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suwit hrc thai*
> 
> hrc high resolution computers shop thailand


can anyone tell me what these gauges are and where to find them?


----------



## joostflux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> can anyone tell me what these gauges are and where to find them?


I'm almost positive those are just gauges for a car that were put in that case for aesthetic reasons. Could be wrong though.


----------



## Erasmus354

So anyone have any idea when the mandrel kits will be back in stock? I was away for the holidays and couldn't order and by the time I got back they were out of stock. I have been sitting on my build for a couple months now because I have been busy / was afraid to attempt the bends. I was realllly looking forward to getting a mandrel kit and getting my build done


----------



## MedRed

you're right. thank you!


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erasmus354*
> 
> So anyone have any idea when the mandrel kits will be back in stock? I was away for the holidays and couldn't order and by the time I got back they were out of stock. I have been sitting on my build for a couple months now because I have been busy / was afraid to attempt the bends. I was realllly looking forward to getting a mandrel kit and getting my build done


Few hours ago i asked ppcs about it and they told me next week or the beginning of the following week.


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> The children would be forever thankful. Metric is much easier to learn due to it's logical approach.


There's the problem right there. If there is logic involved, government is automatically excluded.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> There's the problem right there. If there is logic involved, government is automatically excluded.


Don't forget efficiency! That's also something they really dislike








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Monsoon's fittings are going to be able to use the compression rings of their existing fittings and it looks like the base/barb is going to be what's changed. Geno mentions it in the video with the 80 lb weight test.
> I would wait to see what size tubing they will come out with.
> 
> For cheap practice tubing you can get 6' lengths from US Plastics and McMaster Carr. Just get a few Primochill rigid compressions for test fitting. They are little bit easier to use and measure off of. Closer to what Monsoon will be offering I think.
> 
> I'm mobile so I will try to find a link. I know there are some links further back in the thread from wermad and or ITDiva tho.


I'm 99% positive that he mentioned in that video that the hardline compression fittings will be coming out for 13mm OD and 16mm OD so as far as I know it has already been decided. I could be wrong though, sure hope I am not. It would be nice if all companies would choose the same seizes for their fittings. I don't like proprietary stuff.


----------



## DaaQ

I'm not sure on the acualy OD's but he did state that you would be able to use your existing monsoon compression fittings compression rings on the new hard line fitting bases.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> I'm not sure on the acualy OD's but he did state that you would be able to use your existing monsoon compression fittings compression rings on the new hard line fitting bases.


I think it was only the 5/8" or 3/4" od rings that would work he said. I could be wrong though.


----------



## Juthos

Waiting for the mandrel kit to be in stock again i did this:


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Waiting for the mandrel kit to be in stock again i did this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cool!! I like that blue tubing.

Edit: I can't tell if that's blue tubing or blue coolant, either way, looks nice!!


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Cool!! I like that blue tubing.
> 
> Edit: I can't tell if that's blue tubing or blue coolant, either way, looks nice!!


Thanks, coolant.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Waiting for the mandrel kit to be in stock again i did this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice, that looks awesome. I cant wait to do my loop but I am still waiting for parts.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Waiting for the mandrel kit to be in stock again i did this:


That's a real purty rig y'got there...


----------



## ozzy1925

i want to ask the owners if 12mm/10mm tubing is easy to bend ?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i want to ask the owners if 12mm/10mm tubing is easy to bend ?


If you heat it up enough it is.









Honestly, yes, it's pretty easy to do, and the new Monsoon Mandrel kit helps quite a bit, but I honestly think a first timer to watercooling should do at least one rig in flexible tubing first, IMHO. To help get the basics down of loop layout and such.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If you heat it up enough it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, yes, it's pretty easy to do, and the new Monsoon Mandrel kit helps quite a bit, but I honestly think a first timer to watercooling should do at least one rig in flexible tubing first, IMHO. To help get the basics down of loop layout and such.


thanks and yes this will be my first water cooling adventure but upgrading from plastic tubing to acrylic tubing will cost alot for me .new fittings+shipping+customs etc.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If you heat it up enough it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, yes, it's pretty easy to do, and the new Monsoon Mandrel kit helps quite a bit, but *I honestly think a first timer to watercooling should do at least one rig in flexible tubing first, IMHO. To help get the basics down of loop layout and such*.


Although I do partially agree with that, the rational side of me that spent all of that money on all of that water cooling hardware begs to differ. Especially now, when I'm going with a completely different setup, and not a single thing from the old build is being used - save the PSU. If I had to do it all over again, I'd go coal miner deep in researching and studying the basics of water cooling, and devising a well thought out plan of how I'd want my rig to look, and what components I'd want in it. The original plan was to build a future proof rig with my RIVE GTX590 HC, and 32gb of RAM, but by today's standard, that's sort of a joke. So here I am again, two years later, building another "future proof" rig with a R4BE, a couple of Titans, a CaseLabs ST10, and acrylic tubing... Only difference this time though, is that this is where I draw the line and stop the madness of trying to pursue the perfect rig.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If you heat it up enough it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, yes, it's pretty easy to do, and the new Monsoon Mandrel kit helps quite a bit, but I honestly think a first timer to watercooling should do at least one rig in flexible tubing first, IMHO. To help get the basics down of loop layout and such.


Watercooling isn't rocket science. We all like to act sophisticated about it but it's not that hard to be honest

Also remember that flex tubing is something that kept a lot of people from doing their first loop with all the plasticizers and maintenance and stuff. With rigid you can keep your loop up n running for up to 3 years if you get a proper premix coolant. I've always been fascinated by watercooling but recent development in rigid tubing is what made me actually do it.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If you heat it up enough it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, yes, it's pretty easy to do, and the new Monsoon Mandrel kit helps quite a bit, but I honestly think a first timer to watercooling should do at least one rig in flexible tubing first, IMHO. To help get the basics down of loop layout and such.
> 
> 
> 
> Watercooling isn't rocket science. We all like to act sophisticated about it but it's not that hard to be honest
> 
> Also remember that flex tubing is something that kept a lot of people from doing their first loop with all the plasticizers and maintenance and stuff. With rigid you can keep your loop up n running for up to 3 years if you get a proper premix coolant. I've always been fascinated by watercooling but recent development in rigid tubing is what made me actually do it.
Click to expand...

Most premixes are absolute garbage and based on ethylene glycol, which should be avoided (hard line tubing or not). Distilled water w/ biocide/silver kill coil works just as well if not better, isn't toxic to humans/pets/the environement and more importantly, it's extremely cheap.

If you do go premix, Mayhems and IceDragon are really the only ideal solutions.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If you heat it up enough it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, yes, it's pretty easy to do, and the new Monsoon Mandrel kit helps quite a bit, but I honestly think a first timer to watercooling should do at least one rig in flexible tubing first, IMHO. To help get the basics down of loop layout and such.
> 
> 
> 
> Watercooling isn't rocket science. We all like to act sophisticated about it but it's not that hard to be honest
> 
> Also remember that flex tubing is something that kept a lot of people from doing their first loop with all the plasticizers and maintenance and stuff. With rigid you can keep your loop up n running for up to 3 years if you get a proper premix coolant. I've always been fascinated by watercooling but recent development in rigid tubing is what made me actually do it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Most premixes are absolute garbage* and based on ethylene glycol, which should be avoided (hard line tubing or not). Distilled water w/ biocide/silver kill coil works just as well if not better, isn't toxic to humans/pets/the environement and more importantly, it's extremely cheap.
> 
> If you do go premix, Mayhems and IceDragon are really the only ideal solutions.
Click to expand...

This.

Good for you Hefner,good luck with your loop,if you have any questions then feel free to post them here


----------



## lowfat

I cannot suggest using undiluted Ice Dragon if you use nickel. It will stain it heavily.


----------



## iamkraine

what about mayhems pastel white?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Watercooling isn't rocket science. We all like to act sophisticated about it but it's not that hard to be honest
> 
> Also remember that flex tubing is something that kept a lot of people from doing their first loop with all the plasticizers and maintenance and stuff. With rigid you can keep your loop up n running for up to 3 years if you get a proper premix coolant. I've always been fascinated by watercooling but recent development in rigid tubing is what made me actually do it.


Likewise .... all those tubes going in different directions at all different radii offended my sense of order.







..... I like straight lines and right angles.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Most premixes are absolute garbage and based on ethylene glycol, which should be avoided (hard line tubing or not). .


Also voids PrimoChill;'s warranty


----------



## jokrik

Result of my first attempt


----------



## geogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Result of my first attempt


...jokrik everything you do becomes beautiful...wow...
Now here comes the questions hehe
What tubing and fittings are those? My logic points me to primochill tubing in black and rigid ghost fittings?
And how difficult or complicated was it with the monsoon kit?
Once again, great job jokrik!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geogga*
> 
> LOL so many pictures of mistakes, I guess we all learn from mistakes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...jokrik everything you do becomes beautiful...wow...
> Now here comes the questions hehe
> What tubing and fittings are those? My logic points me to primochill tubing in black and rigid ghost fittings?
> And how difficult or complicated was it with the monsoon kit?
> Once again, great job jokrik!


You can find the exact fitting HERE
and the tubing is as you said

the monsoon kit really does make a difference , however for tight bend like the one from SB to the CPU block
I still use the same method as their youtube guide for the measurement ,
it's just that the bending is too tight for the mandrel so I have to do it by eyes with guide line from the rules method


----------



## geogga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> You can find the exact fitting HERE
> and the tubing is as you said
> 
> the monsoon kit really does make a difference , however for tight bend like the one from SB to the CPU block
> I still use the same method as their youtube guide for the measurement ,
> it's just that the bending is too tight for the mandrel so I have to do it by eyes with guide line from the rules method


Hi. I don't know where that first part came from lol. Weird.

Is there a reason why you chose the revolvers instead of the rigid ghosts?

My future bends probably won't be like that; I may use 90 degree fittings with a small amount of tubing inbetween maybe the ram and CPU. I hope in the future motherboard NB SB and VRMs become more similar so more blocks can be used for a variety of motherboards. Not sure if that's possible but I hope it is.


----------



## Hefner

I did say "proper" premix. So yeah, just gotta do your research before you buy something. Personally I'm going with Mayhems pastel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geogga*
> 
> Hi. I don't know where that first part came from lol. Weird.
> 
> Is there a reason why you chose the revolvers instead of the rigid ghosts?
> 
> My future bends probably won't be like that; I may use 90 degree fittings with a small amount of tubing inbetween maybe the ram and CPU. I hope in the future motherboard NB SB and VRMs become more similar so more blocks can be used for a variety of motherboards. Not sure if that's possible but I hope it is.


The only reason to go revolver VS ghost is aesthetics.

Also, I just came back from the hardware store because I wanted to buy a heatgun since I finally got enough wc gear to start doing some bends, however, the cheapest heatgun they had was a wooping 60$! Definitely unexpected. Guess I'll order one online since I can find plenty of cheap ones online. Kind of disappointed though since I was looking forward to do some practice bending tonight.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> The only reason to go revolver VS ghost is aesthetics.
> 
> Also, I just came back from the hardware store because I wanted to buy a heatgun since I finally got enough wc gear to start doing some bends, however, the cheapest heatgun they had was a wooping 60$! Definitely unexpected. Guess I'll order one online since I can find plenty of cheap ones online. Kind of disappointed though since I was looking forward to do some practice bending tonight.


I went revolvers also... and I do think they look better than the ghost compression fittings. As for the heat gun, I used a heat gun that I used to put a shink type plastic covering on radio control airplanes. It only cost $10 when I bought it... which I purchased a long time ago. I wouldn't spend more than $20 on a heat gun. My very old cheap heat gun worked just fine.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I went revolvers also... and I do think they look better than the ghost compression fittings. As for the heat gun, I used a heat gun that I used to put a shink type plastic covering on radio control airplanes. It only cost $10 when I bought it... which I purchased a long time ago. I wouldn't spend more than $20 on a heat gun. My very old cheap heat gun worked just fine.


Exactly why I went home empty handed. I agreed with myself that 25$ would be my budget for finding a heatgun.

I do disagree on the fittings though. I definitely like the looks of the revolvers more.


----------



## geogga

Isn't the lutro0 heat gun $30. Except it's sold out.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Exactly why I went home empty handed. I agreed with myself that 25$ would be my budget for finding a heatgun.
> 
> *I do disagree on the fittings though. I definitely like the looks of the revolvers more*.


Isn't that what I said... minus the "definitely"... or is because I said "I think"... LOL...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The low-budget heatguns from places like Harbor Freight or Northern Tools do just fine for acrylic bending or sleeving / heatshrink. Of course you'll be better off to get one a little better than their cheapest models, and make sure you get one with multiple heat settings. Not sure if you're in the US or not, but if so you might have one of their brick & morter stores near you.


----------



## Wihglah

So Ethylene Glycol is out - but what about Propylene Glycol?

I currently use Koolance 70 coolant and am very happy with it. Would it be OK with Primochill tubes?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wihglah*
> 
> So Ethylene Glycol is out - but what about Propylene Glycol?
> 
> I currently use Koolance 70 coolant and am very happy with it. Would it be OK with Primochill tubes?


nothing that has a type of alcohol is in it ok!! and glycol is from the alcohol family so no.....


----------



## Wihglah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> nothing that has a type of alcohol is in it ok!! and glycol is from the alcohol family so no.....


Good to know - many thanks.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> nothing that has a type of alcohol is in it ok!! and glycol is from the alcohol family so no.....


Not alcohol family, glycols are a cross between alcohol and glycerin.

http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/Plastics_Library/Chemical-Resistance-of-Plexiglass-Acrylic says _"E" 30 days of constant exposure with no damage. Plastic may even tolerate chemical for years_.

Anyone using Koolance 70 that has actually seen cracks in acrylic, tubes or reservoirs?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Not alcohol family, glycols are a cross between alcohol and glycerin.


To me that puts it in the alcohol family?!!!!!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> To me that puts it in the alcohol family?!!!!!


Perhaps it helps to think of it like this...



This is a gun where the bit that kills people has been replaced with something harmless.

Glycols are similar, the quality of alcohol that cracks acrylic has been replaced by a sugary liquid.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Perhaps it helps to think of it like this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a gun where the bit that kills people has been replaced with something harmless.
> 
> Glycols are similar, the quality of alcohol that cracks acrylic has been replaced by a sugary liquid.


Yes you can put it like this. But it still has alcohol in it! Will it harm acrylic tubing most likely not. But personally I am not going to use it as I do not want to take the chance.

Facts-
It does have alcohol in it
Pure water cools better

Opinion--
I would not use it with acrylic tubing

But really as often as we change it dose not make a big difference it comes down to personal choice..


----------



## X-Nine

I've said it before, I'll say it again, the ONLY premix coolants that are alright to use are Mayhems (which you dilute with distilled water), or Ice Dragon. Anything based on alcohol or glycol should be avoided.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I've said it before, I'll say it again, the ONLY premix coolants that are alright to use are Mayhems (which you dilute with distilled water), or Ice Dragon. Anything based on alcohol or glycol should be avoided.


Agree with this completely, but I can't agree about ice dragon as I have never used it personally.

I have been using Mayhems exclusively for the last 3 years in all WC builds. Never had a single issue with it!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I've said it before, I'll say it again, the ONLY premix coolants that are alright to use are Mayhems (which you dilute with distilled water), or Ice Dragon. Anything based on alcohol or glycol should be avoided.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Agree with this completely, but I can't agree about ice dragon as I have never used it personally.
> 
> I have been using Mayhems exclusively for the last 3 years in all WC builds. Never had a single issue with it!


will this be ok?? Mayhem XT-1 Coolant

it says it is based on Ethylene Glycol according to what I had read about it. I was thinking of getting some of this because you can go below 0 on the fluid then....


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> will this be ok?? Mayhem XT-1 Coolant
> 
> it says it is based on Ethylene Glycol according to what I had read about it. I was thinking of getting some of this because you can go below 0 on the fluid then....


Are you using some type of cooler/refrigeration in your system?? That's the only reason I see to use the XT-1, I've never used it as it is Glycol based, and almost every part of my loop has some type of acrylic in it, so I use either X-1 or pastel. In my personal systems, I prefer pastel honestly.
And I never let my house get lower than 20c









If I'm doing a bench run, I'll take the system outside late at night to get the ambients as low as possible, but even when ambient outside is below 0c my system never is!!!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Are you using some type of cooler/refrigeration in your system?? That's the only reason I see to use the XT-1, I've never used it as it is Glycol based, and almost every part of my loop has some type of acrylic in it, so I use either X-1 or pastel. In my personal systems, I prefer pastel honestly.
> And I never let my house get lower than 20c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm doing a bench run, I'll take the system outside late at night to get the ambients as low as possible, but even when ambient outside is below 0c my system never is!!!


yes I am going to have a TEC chiller in it and just thinking about having the option but most likely will keep water a few degrees above dew point that way I do not have to worry about condensation...









in my house a few degrees above dew point would be like 10 to 12 degrees C. So this should be plenty. I have been checking it and calculating it for 6 months now. that is a average...

from what you said since I have so much acrylic in my system between reservoirs, tops and eventually tubing I better not use this then!! thought so just wanted someones opinion!!!


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes I am going to have a TEC chiller in it and just thinking about having the option but most likely will keep water a few degrees above dew point that way I do not have to worry about condensation...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in my house a few degrees above dew point would be like 10 to 12 degrees C. So this should be plenty. I have been checking it and calculating it for 6 months now. that is a average...
> 
> from what you said since I have so much acrylic in my system between reservoirs, tops and eventually tubing I better not use this then!! thought so just wanted someones opinion!!!


IMHO, I would stick to the regular X-1 and not the XT-1 still in your situation. just my two cents though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You are confusing isopropyl alcohol with glycols.
Isopropyl damages acrylic,Glycols do not. Glycols have been used with reservoirs for the longest time.

Glycols are not good for the environment,this is why i dont recommend them.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> IMHO, I would stick to the regular X-1 and not the XT-1 still in your situation. just my two cents though.


thanks and I think I will stick to Distilled water and biocide.....


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You are confusing isopropyl alcohol with glycols.
> Isopropyl damages acrylic,Glycols do not. Glycols have been used with reservoirs for the longest time.
> 
> Glycols are not good for the environment,this is why i dont recommend them.


edit removed due to being bad!! thanks for this B, I might consider the XT-1


----------



## Wihglah

The thing is, the Koolance bumf states it's OK for:

"Metals: copper, aluminum, brass, lead, stainless steel, steel, nickel
Plastics: PE, PP, PVC, POM, Acrylic, PPO, PA66, PPS, PPE, PEI, PES, PBT
Rubber: EPDM, Viton"

Also - My bad - it's 705 (not 70) This Stuff

And come to think about it, my res is acrylic.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I know many people have used coolants with ethylene glycol in their loops without issues, but there's good reason why companies like Primochill specifically mention ethylene glycol will void the warranty on their acrylic products. Full strength 100% ethylene glycol can crack up acrylic just the same as isopropyl or denatured alcohol will on any edges that were heat-treated or laser cut. Our sample shop at work has showed examples of this effect many times using Ethylene alcohol (aka ethylene glycol) and it's exactly the same and just as fast a reaction as with denatured alcohol. There was also a post recently here on OCN from someone who had both their acrylic res and their flow meter damaged with microfractures after using thermaltake's Bigwater coolant.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

With all this talk about Acrylic tube bending, has anyone attempted to bend a long tubular reservoir? ...I'd imagine one that was bent in a squiggly design would be pretty awesome.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> With all this talk about Acrylic tube bending, has anyone attempted to bend a long tubular reservoir? ...I'd imagine one that was bent in a squiggly design would be pretty awesome.


Now I'm having 70's flashbacks..... lava lamps, Dead concerts ....and everything "totally tubular".


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Now I'm having 70's flashbacks..... lava lamps, Dead concerts ....and everything "totally tubular".


A lava lamp reservoir would be pretty cool. Except the "lava goo" would probably clog up the blocks. It could probably be pulled off though with some careful engineering of a lava lamp tube, within a reservoir tube.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Now I'm having 70's flashbacks..... lava lamps, Dead concerts ....and everything "totally tubular".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> A lava lamp reservoir would be pretty cool. Except the "lava goo" would probably clog up the blocks. It could probably be pulled off though with some careful engineering of a lava lamp tube, within a reservoir tube.


instead of a Lava Lamp need a reservoir made like a BONG!!!!!


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> instead of a Lava Lamp need a reservoir made like a BONG!!!!!


Yes! Having nice temps whilst simultaneously packing a bowl sound pretty damn good!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

...........I leave the room for one minute and damn _hippies_ move in.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ...........I leave the room for one minute and damn _hippies_ move in.


Just showing our age!!!





















and what is wrong with Old Hippies... we bath now, cut hair, not so many ear rings and usually have decent job and family????







Just because we remember good old days does not make us bad people!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> ...........I leave the room for one minute and damn _hippies_ move in.
> 
> 
> 
> Just showing our age!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and what is wrong with Old Hippies... we bath now, cut hair, not so many ear rings and usually have decent job and family????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just because we remember good old days does not make us bad people!!!
Click to expand...

Erm,I am 40.......


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Erm,I am 40.......


ok then you should remember most of this then!!!! maybe not the acid, pot and other things


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Erm,I am 40.......
> 
> 
> 
> ok then you should remember most of this then!!!! maybe not the acid, pot and other things
Click to expand...

If only you knew.......


----------



## Hefner




----------



## seross69

Well you know most of the active people with any knowledge are old farts!!! For some reason I assume most of the people active on here was high school or college age. but actually most are old farts!!!!

Well wisdom and lots of time come with age!! (time because we are too old to have as much fun as we use to)








to all the old farts!!!!

and remember



I might be old in age but I refuse to GROW UP!!!!!


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Well you know most of the active people with any knowledge are old farts!!! For some reason I assume most of the people active on here was high school or college age. but actually most are old farts!!!!
> 
> Well wisdom and lots of time come with age!! (time because we are too old to have as much fun as we use to)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to all the old farts!!!!
> 
> and remember
> 
> 
> 
> I might be old in age but I refuse to GROW UP!!!!!


Amen brother.


----------



## TheSimon

Whats a good amount of wattage for a heatgun to bend acrylic tubing? I found a well reviewed and priced heat gun but its only 1200 watts and im worried its not powerful enough, any advice on a good wattage?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Whats a good amount of wattage for a heatgun to bend acrylic tubing? I found a well reviewed and priced heat gun but its only 1200 watts and im worried its not powerful enough, any advice on a good wattage?


The Wagner adjustable temp unit I use is a 12amp 1500watt unit, and it's way more than powerful for it.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Whats a good amount of wattage for a heatgun to bend acrylic tubing? I found a well reviewed and priced heat gun but its only 1200 watts and im worried its not powerful enough, any advice on a good wattage?


The monsson heat gun that comes with the kit is 1800 and has 2 settings it is only 15 dollars

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1286&products_id=39833


----------



## Hefner

What temperature do you guys recommend for bending acrylic? I found a nice affordable 2000w heatgun which I am able to configure between 50°C - 650°C in steps of 10°C.


----------



## Jimhans1

Well, it does not actually melt until it reaches 320 °F (160 °C), so I run my heat gun at the 500 °F setting


----------



## TheSimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> What temperature do you guys recommend for bending acrylic? I found a nice affordable 2000w heatgun which I am able to configure between 50°C - 650°C in steps of 10°C.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Well, it does not actually melt until it reaches 320 °F (160 °C), so I run my heat gun at the 500 °F setting


You guys mind posting the names/links of these heatguns?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> You guys mind posting the names/links of these heatguns?


Sure thing, mine is a Wagner HT3500, got it at Home Depot as I had a store credit.......

Wagner HT3500


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> You guys mind posting the names/links of these heatguns?


bought it in a store in my country. Unable to find it on English websites, sorry.


----------



## X-Nine

I bought my heat gun years ago at micro center for 18 bucks I believe it reaches up to 900F. You really don't need anything super expensive or powerful to bend acrylic tubing.... I bet there's even hair dryers out there that will do it with ease.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I bought mine from Harbor Freight Tools... They usually have these 1500 watt gems on sale once a month for $7.99.


----------



## gdubc

I already had a heat gun when I ordered the bending kits from performance. I thought it was kind of a cheap move on their part to take the heat guns out of the kits and sell them seperately. I was wishing I had ordered the full kits from frozen instead and had a backup.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I already had a heat gun when I ordered the bending kits from performance. I thought it was kind of a cheap move on their part to take the heat guns out of the kits and sell them seperately. I was wishing I had ordered the full kits from frozen instead and had a backup.


That was after user feedback from people saying, "I've already got a heatgun". Can't please everyone


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> I already had a heat gun when I ordered the bending kits from performance. I thought it was kind of a cheap move on their part to take the heat guns out of the kits and sell them seperately. I was wishing I had ordered the full kits from frozen instead and had a backup.
> 
> 
> 
> That was after user feedback from people saying, "I've already got a heatgun". Can't please everyone
Click to expand...

This.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That was after user feedback from people saying, "I've already got a heatgun". Can't please everyone


that and if you wanted the whole kit you could buy it I did!


----------



## TheSimon

By the way guys I've seen videos of people bending acrylic around objects (even the mandrel set stuff from monsoon) and I'm paranoid that I'll leave a dent in the tube (even if its very small). Are there any disadvantages to bending freehand? Also if anyone's used monsoon bending kit with clear acrylic tubing did it leave a dent?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> By the way guys I've seen videos of people bending acrylic around objects (even the mandrel set stuff from monsoon) and I'm paranoid that I'll leave a dent in the tube (even if its very small). Are there any disadvantages to bending freehand? Also if anyone's used monsoon bending kit with clear acrylic tubing did it leave a dent?


It didnt leave a dent for me with the monsoon kit.

Bending freehand is an art as the tube wants to move in 3 directions,forming on a flat plane makes stuff stay inline and tidy.


----------



## lowfat

The disadvantage of free handing is that it doesn't look near as good.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The disadvantage of free handing is that it doesn't look near as good.


I did mine free-hand... and I think it looks just as good as those who use jigs and monsoon kits...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















It might not be perfect... but it can be done. I've seen pics posted that used the monsoon kits or home made jigs that didn't come out perfect either.

If you plan your loops well, and take your time bending acrylic free hand... you can make an acrylic loop look just as good those who used bending kits and jigs... IMO...


----------



## lowfat

Your bending does look good but I do believe it could be improved upon by using some sort of mandrel. Even a homemade one.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Your bending does look good but I do believe it could be improved upon by using some sort of mandrel. Even a homemade one.


Definitely agree. Properly done with a mandrel does seem to look the best IMO.

And no, I'm not saying free hand is improper.


----------



## TheSimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I did mine free-hand... and I think it looks just as good as those who use jigs and monsoon kits...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might not be perfect... but it can be done. I've seen pics posted that used the monsoon kits or home made jigs that didn't come out perfect either.
> 
> If you plan your loops well, and take your time bending acrylic free hand... you can make an acrylic loop look just as good those who used bending kits and jigs... IMO...


Holy crap is that metal tubing or is it just acrylic made to look metallic? If it is really metal did a heatgun suffice in bending it? If so what wattage heat did you use? Sorry its a lot of questions but that tubing look so bad-ass!


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Monsoon's fittings are going to work with either *13mm OD or 16mm OD*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Monsoon's fittings are going to be able to *use the compression rings of their existing fittings and it looks like the base/barb is going to be what's changed*.


I currently have 20+ Monsoon free center compression fittings but the size I have are 7/16" ID, 5/8/ OD.

Any chance that I'd be able to use my existing "outer compression rings" with the new rigid fittings?

5/8" = 15.8750mm
My math suggests it wont work.

How is this possible if the new fittings are metric?


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Holy crap is that metal tubing or is it just acrylic made to look metallic? If it is really metal did a heatgun suffice in bending it? If so what wattage heat did you use? Sorry its a lot of questions but that tubing look so bad-ass!


Thanks... I appreciate it. . I seen your post when you posted... but it was hard to respond in the middle of 12,414 people at the SDSU vs UNLV game... hehe.

It's not metal tubing... LOL. It's the primochill black acrylic. My heatgun is really cheap... only a 1000 watts. I pulled it out of storage when I used to make radio control airplanes. It's got to be over 10 years old.


----------



## Daggi

Bummer
I had a major leak today. One of the acrylic tubes popped out of the fitting. It's strange because i did a 24 hour leak test and everything was excellent. Started my computer and it was up and running for about an hour, I went to the kitchen for some dinner and then i heard a buzzing sound from my pumps. Back at my computer there was coolant all over the floor. I hope i didn't damage anything. Gonna put everything back together next weekend.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> A lava lamp reservoir would be pretty cool. Except the "lava goo" would probably clog up the blocks. It could probably be pulled off though with some careful engineering of a lava lamp tube, within a reservoir tube.


If it was to go to market, think I'd use a "tube within a tube" concept .... lava lamp stuff in one and coolant flowing thru other.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Whats a good amount of wattage for a heatgun to bend acrylic tubing? I found a well reviewed and priced heat gun but its only 1200 watts and im worried its not powerful enough, any advice on a good wattage?


My first attempt at shrinking heat shrink was w/ my wife's blow dryer ..... has 1200 / 1500 watt settings .... it sucked .... too much air .... too little heat









I bring this up cuz it's more than the wattage ..... see what temp settings it has.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Bummer
> I had a major leak today. One of the acrylic tubes popped out of the fitting. It's strange because i did a 24 hour leak test and everything was excellent. Started my computer and it was up and running for about an hour, I went to the kitchen for some dinner and then i heard a buzzing sound from my pumps. Back at my computer there was coolant all over the floor. I hope i didn't damage anything. Gonna put everything back together next weekend.


Damn ... that's gotta suck ..... I assume this was a "push on" fitting ? Was it fully seated. I cut all my tubes a bit ling as measuring to spaces "in air", you have to guess where the matching piece will line up. So went back to cut 4mm off ..... quit for the day and then came back next day and it was still 4mm too long. Cut again .....it wasn't till I was doing leak test that I realized I had mixed up two tubes and I was only seated 4mm into the 8mmm fitting seat depth. Luckily it leaked a drop or 2 or I might not have noticed it.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Bummer
> I had a major leak today. One of the acrylic tubes popped out of the fitting. It's strange because i did a 24 hour leak test and everything was excellent. Started my computer and it was up and running for about an hour, I went to the kitchen for some dinner and then i heard a buzzing sound from my pumps. Back at my computer there was coolant all over the floor. I hope i didn't damage anything. Gonna put everything back together next weekend.


Ouch! I hope your system is fine and nothing shorted.

Was it a 180 bend inside push fittings? I can imagine if you put a 180 bend in push fittings the pressure from the pump could slowly push out the tube.


----------



## Phazeshifta

For those of you saying that Erayser's bends could be better, I'd love a detailed explanation of how exactly they could be better? You can go ahead and point out in his photos where they could be better, that would be great.

They look absolutely amazing to me and if noone knew any better, I bet every single person would say he used a mandrel kit.

Don't listen to these haters, Erayser. Everything about your system looks amazing and I give you extra props for hand-bending the tubes.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Ouch! I hope your system is fine and nothing shorted.
> 
> Was it a 180 bend inside push fittings? I can imagine if you put a 180 bend in push fittings the pressure from the pump could slowly push out the tube.


It was kind of a 180 bend. It was a tube from the vrm motherboard block to the cpu block. I'm gonna make a new tube to see if that helps or else I'll have to redo my loop.I turned if off pretty fast so i cross my finger that everything works when i put it together again


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If it was to go to market, think I'd use a "tube within a tube" concept .... lava lamp stuff in one and coolant flowing thru other.
> My first attempt at shrinking heat shrink was w/ my wife's blow dryer ..... has 1200 / 1500 watt settings .... it sucked .... too much air .... too little heat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bring this up cuz it's more than the wattage ..... see what temp settings it has.
> Damn ... that's gotta suck ..... I assume this was a "push on" fitting ? Was it fully seated. I cut all my tubes a bit ling as measuring to spaces "in air", you have to guess where the matching piece will line up. So went back to cut 4mm off ..... quit for the day and then came back next day and it was still 4mm too long. Cut again .....it wasn't till I was doing leak test that I realized I had mixed up two tubes and I was only seated 4mm into the 8mmm fitting seat depth. Luckily it leaked a drop or 2 or I might not have noticed it.


It was a EK 16/ 12 fitting. I checked every fitting with a flashlight and confirmed that the tubes was fully seated. The strange thing is that I leak tested for 24 hours and it was excellent. Going to make a new tube and change the fittings to see if that could be the cause. Maybe I'll redo my loop to make safer for pop outs.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> For those of you saying that Erayser's bends could be better, I'd love a detailed explanation of how exactly they could be better? You can go ahead and point out in his photos where they could be better, that would be great.
> 
> They look absolutely amazing to me and if noone knew any better, I bet every single person would say he used a mandrel kit.
> 
> Don't listen to these haters, Erayser. Everything about your system looks amazing and I give you extra props for hand-bending the tubes.


Thanks for the props... I didn't take any any comments as haters... LOL. I did say I would have used the mandrel kit if was available at the time. But my point was... if a loop is planned well, and you take your time bending, it is possible to make a loop "look" just as good as those that use the mandrel kit. I just didn't agree that free-hand bending... as quoted, "doesn't look near as good." I didn't mention anything of the quality of bends... just that it can "look" as good. Although, I'm happy how well my bends came out.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> It was kind of a 180 bend. It was a tube from the vrm motherboard block to the cpu block. I'm gonna make a new tube to see if that helps or else I'll have to redo my loop.I turned if off pretty fast so i cross my finger that everything works when i put it together again


I would avoid 180s with push fittings. Good luck with your loop


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> For those of you saying that Erayser's bends could be better, I'd love a detailed explanation of how exactly they could be better? You can go ahead and point out in his photos where they could be better, that would be great.
> 
> They look absolutely amazing to me and if noone knew any better, I bet every single person would say he used a mandrel kit.
> 
> Don't listen to these haters, Erayser. Everything about your system looks amazing and I give you extra props for hand-bending the tubes.


Save the indignation for the GPU threads neh? We strive for excellence,critical opinions are acceptable if they are constructive in nature,everyone here wants the very best.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> For those of you saying that Erayser's bends could be better, I'd love a detailed explanation of how exactly they could be better? You can go ahead and point out in his photos where they could be better, that would be great.
> 
> They look absolutely amazing to me and if noone knew any better, I bet every single person would say he used a mandrel kit.
> 
> Don't listen to these haters, Erayser. Everything about your system looks amazing and I give you extra props for hand-bending the tubes.


You can definitely tell that mandrels were not used on the 90 degree bends.


----------



## Buehlar

Just a bump...looking for anyone's input.








Or should I post this elsewhere?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Monsoon's fittings are going to work with either *13mm OD or 16mm OD*.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Monsoon's fittings are going to be able to *use the compression rings of their existing fittings and it looks like the base/barb is going to be what's changed*.


I currently have 20+ Monsoon free center compression fittings but the size I have are 7/16" ID, 5/8/ OD.

Any chance that I'd be able to use my existing "outer compression rings" with the new rigid fittings?

5/8" = 15.8750mm
My math suggests it wont work.

How is this possible if the new fittings are metric?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> For those of you saying that Erayser's bends could be better, I'd love a detailed explanation of how exactly they could be better? You can go ahead and point out in his photos where they could be better, that would be great.
> 
> They look absolutely amazing to me and if noone knew any better, I bet every single person would say he used a mandrel kit.
> 
> Don't listen to these haters, Erayser. Everything about your system looks amazing and I give you extra props for hand-bending the tubes.


I saw no problems with it but since ya brought it up, I went back and looked..... the mods would like ya to think OCN stands for OverClockers Network, but I think it really means Obsessive Compulsive Nerds. The site is populated by perfectionists (OCD maybe) who can't sleep at night cause two of their screws aren't lined up perfectly with the + lines perfectly vertical and horizontal. When it comes to tubing the goal is that no one bend is in more than one axis. .... I had to look for a while but for the one at the CPU, it looks the bend from the horizontal started a bit early, never quite got to vertical and then had to bend back just a bit to line up with the port. Being human, none of us are perfect ..... just ask our wives, husbands or significant others







..... at least not all the time and many of us redo things over and over again till we "nail it"

I like straight lines and I redid several of my tubes after completing my build.... when I was satisfied, I put DW in it..... over the 5 days it ran, looking at it from different angles, I saw a mm here even half on one there that I wanna shave. Did these when I switched to pastel and I am still seeing more things I'm not quite happy with. Sometimes I will post a pic and ask "is it just me ?" because I think I'm being overly self critical .... and usually I will get back...."Yeah I saw that and while I was lookin , I noticed ....."

I had an English teacher in 11th grade who gave term paper assignments ....in 25 years he said on our 1st day of class he had given just 3 numbered grades (95, 96 and 98) rest all got A, B, C etc .... I had the luck of getting him twice .... the 98 grade was about 12 years before me and it was a 128 page term paper on the "Love and Sex Themes of Betram Russel" (how do I remember this and can never remember where I left my car keys) ..... he misspelled 2 words, so 1 point off for each. Was it a great paper....of course it was but teach's comment was .... "it cuda been bettah" ..... that WAS a strong compliment cause in his world 70% of the ones he read were PoS .... tough teach I had in 11th and 12th grades.... and tough crowd here. So I don't see a comment like that as "hating"...... It should be considered high praise !


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I saw no problems with it but since ya brought it up, I went back and looked..... the mods would like ya to think OCN stands for OverClockers Network, but I think it really means Obsessive Compulsive Nerds. The site is populated by perfectionists (OCD maybe) who can't sleep at night cause two of their screws aren't lined up perfectly with the + lines perfectly vertical and horizontal. When it comes to tubing the goal is that no one bend is in more than one axis. .... I had to look for a while but for the one at the CPU, it looks the bend from the horizontal started a bit early, never quite got to vertical and then had to bend back just a bit to line up with the port. Being human, none of us are perfect ..... just ask our wives, husbands or significant others
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..... at least not all the time and many of us redo things over and over again till we "nail it"
> 
> I like straight lines and I redid several of my tubes after completing my build.... when I was satisfied, I put DW in it..... over the 5 days it ran, looking at it from different angles, I saw a mm here even half on one there that I wanna shave. Did these when I switched to pastel and I am still seeing more things I'm not quite happy with. Sometimes I will post a pic and ask "is it just me ?" because I think I'm being overly self critical .... and usually I will get back...."Yeah I saw that and while I was lookin , I noticed ....."
> 
> I had an English teacher in 11th grade who gave term paper assignments ....in 25 years he said on our 1st day of class he had given just 3 numbered grades (95, 96 and 98) rest all got A, B, C etc .... I had the luck of getting him twice .... the 98 grade was about 12 years before me and it was a 128 page term paper on the "Love and Sex Themes of Betram Russel" (how do I remember this and can never remember where I left my car keys) ..... he misspelled 2 words, so 1 point off for each. Was it a great paper....of course it was but teach's comment was .... "it cuda been bettah" ..... that WAS a strong compliment cause in his world 70% of the ones he read were PoS .... tough teach I had in 11th and 12th grades.... and tough crowd here. So I don't see a comment like that as "hating"...... It should be considered high praise !


LOL... You make me want to order mandrels and perfect my loop.









Again, perfection and quality of bends wan't my point. Maybe I took the comment... "The disadvantage of free handing is that it doesn't look near as good."... the wrong way. Not a big deal... and I didn't take the replies as hate. Just a lot of perfectionist here.

BTW... there are lot more than what you mentioned. It's all about camera angles.


----------



## activ228

Hey guys, quick question, how much feet of acrylic tubing is needed for a loop?

thanks


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *activ228*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question, how much feet of acrylic tubing is needed for a loop?
> 
> thanks


Ahhh, if it were that easy. To do my full tower STH10, I ended up using about 18 feet to make it exactly how I wanted. Some will take less, some more. I would say get 20 feet, and then you shouldn't have to worry about mistakes, and there will be mistakes!!









You can get the stuff sold through FCPU or PPCS for like 20$ for 8 feet.

Or go to www.mcmaster.com and it's $3.69 per 6 foot section.

There's also www.tapplastics.com and www.usplastic.com both are good suppliers and have good prices also.


----------



## Slinky PC

Take me just two months to bending successful those 6 tubes, any 10 tentative one successful. I am happy with the result even if I have to order 6 times those UV CLEAR tubes.


----------



## kingchris

^ very nice


----------



## Hefner

So I got both the silicone rod and the acrylic tubing from primochill and I am having a nightmare here. I can't get the silicone rod to fit inside the tubing! I haven't tried lubing with olive oil since generally speaking oil is a PITA to clean and I definitely want to avoid having it in my loop. I have been sanding a lot but progress is slow and my hands are getting all cramped up. I thought about using some dishwashing soap for lube but I figured I'd drop by here first and ask for some advice.

In the bending introduction video the rod slides in so easily


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> So I got both the silicone rod and the acrylic tubing from primochill and I am having a nightmare here. I can't get the silicone rod to fit inside the tubing! I haven't tried lubing with olive oil since generally speaking oil is a PITA to clean and I definitely want to avoid having it in my loop. I have been sanding a lot but progress is slow and my hands are getting all cramped up. I thought about using some dishwashing soap for lube but I figured I'd drop by here first and ask for some advice.
> 
> In the bending introduction video the rod slides in so easily


I have read of some people sanding the silicone rod some and soap is better than Olive oil and to me from my experience in industrial settings and Aquarium's this is the best .

if it will not harm fish I do not believe it will hurt a Cooling system.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> So I got both the silicone rod and the acrylic tubing from primochill and I am having a nightmare here. I can't get the silicone rod to fit inside the tubing! I haven't tried lubing with olive oil since generally speaking oil is a PITA to clean and I definitely want to avoid having it in my loop. I have been sanding a lot but progress is slow and my hands are getting all cramped up. I thought about using some dishwashing soap for lube but I figured I'd drop by here first and ask for some advice.
> 
> In the bending introduction video the rod slides in so easily


Just get a slightly smaller bending rod,0.5mm smaller should do it.
The primochill tube is inconsistent and the rod is interference fit...mucho fail from primochill.....


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> So I got both the silicone rod and the acrylic tubing from primochill and I am having a nightmare here. I can't get the silicone rod to fit inside the tubing! I haven't tried lubing with olive oil since generally speaking oil is a PITA to clean and I definitely want to avoid having it in my loop. I have been sanding a lot but progress is slow and my hands are getting all cramped up. I thought about using some dishwashing soap for lube but I figured I'd drop by here first and ask for some advice.
> 
> In the bending introduction video the rod slides in so easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just get a slightly smaller bending rod,0.5mm smaller should do it.
> The primochill tube is inconsistent and the rod is interference fit...mucho fail from primochill.....
Click to expand...

Bending Primochill acrylic tubing.. that will last for ever?
At first you should order 10 times more as you will need it.
Second.. forget completely about Primochill kid or any smaller silicon tubing as you will lost the high flow. Third and last.. don't spend yours money on mega kids that don't give you all bending options when you can have the right 10 & 12mm EK Kid for 5 times less. PULLED the right silicon tube will be helpful







with same oil








Wish you a lot of fun







use ONLY not conductive fluid or you will







&








&







forever!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> So I got both the silicone rod and the acrylic tubing from primochill and I am having a nightmare here. I can't get the silicone rod to fit inside the tubing! I haven't tried lubing with olive oil since generally speaking oil is a PITA to clean and I definitely want to avoid having it in my loop. I have been sanding a lot but progress is slow and my hands are getting all cramped up. I thought about using some dishwashing soap for lube but I figured I'd drop by here first and ask for some advice.
> 
> In the bending introduction video the rod slides in so easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just get a slightly smaller bending rod,0.5mm smaller should do it.
> The primochill tube is inconsistent and the rod is interference fit...mucho fail from primochill.....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bending Primochill acrylic tubing.. that will last for ever?
> At first you should order 10 times more as you will need it.
> Second.. forget completely about Primochill kid or any smoler silicon tubing as you will lost the high flow. Third and last.. don't spend yours money on mega kids when you can have the right 10 & 12mm EK Kid for 5 times less. PULLED the right silicon tube will be helpful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with same oil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish you a lot of fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> use ONLY not conductive fluid or you will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> &
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> &
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forever!
Click to expand...

The EK kit has no mandrels.

The EK kit doesnt work with Primochill

How does a smaller bending rod change the flow rate? Its doesnt.

No Oil/Lube,just a smaller bending rod is required.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> So I got both the silicone rod and the acrylic tubing from primochill and I am having a nightmare here. I can't get the silicone rod to fit inside the tubing! I haven't tried lubing with olive oil since generally speadng oil is a PITA to clean and I definitely want to avoid having it in my loop. I have been sanding a lot but progress is slow and my hands are getting all cramped up. I thought about using some dishwashing soap for lube but I figured I'd drop by here first and ask for some advice.
> 
> In the bending introduction video the rod slides in so easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just get a slightly smaller bending rod,0.5mm smaller should do it.
> The primochill tube is inconsistent and the rod is interference fit...mucho fail from primochill.....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bending Primochill acrylic tubing.. that will last for ever?
> At first you should order 10 times more as you will need it.
> Second.. forget completely about Primochill kit or any smaller silicon tubing as you will lost the high flow. Third and last.. don't spend yours money on mega kits when you can have the right 10 & 12mm EK Kit for 5 times less. PULLED the right silicon tube will be helpful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with same oil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish you a lot of fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> use ONLY not conductive fluid or you will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> &
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> &
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forever!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The EK kit has no mandrels.
> 
> The EK kit doesnt work with Primochill
> 
> How does a smaller bending rod change the flow rate? Its doesnt.
> 
> No Oil/Lube,just a smaller bending rod is required.
Click to expand...

Please don't try to teach me.. just show it








I don't take lections from no one








My primochill acrylic tubing was bending with EK kit!


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Please don't try to teach me.. just show it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't take lections from no one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My primochill acrylic tubing was bending with EK kid!


Dis gunna be good









Slinky vs B Neg

Personally I am going to side with B Neg since he knows what he is on about and his builds are spectacular and Slinky your PC is


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> So I got both the silicone rod and the acrylic tubing from primochill and I am having a nightmare here. I can't get the silicone rod to fit inside the tubing! I haven't tried lubing with olive oil since generally speaking oil is a PITA to clean and I definitely want to avoid having it in my loop. I have been sanding a lot but progress is slow and my hands are getting all cramped up. I thought about using some dishwashing soap for lube but I figured I'd drop by here first and ask for some advice.
> 
> In the bending introduction video the rod slides in so easily
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just get a slightly smaller bending rod,0.5mm smaller should do it.
> The primochill tube is inconsistent and the rod is interference fit...mucho fail from primochill.....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bending Primochill acrylic tubing.. that will last for ever?
> At first you should order 10 times more as you will need it.
> Second.. forget completely about Primochill kid or any smoler silicon tubing as you will lost the high flow. Third and last.. don't spend yours money on mega kids when you can have the right 10 & 12mm EK Kid for 5 times less. PULLED the right silicon tube will be helpful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with same oil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish you a lot of fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> use ONLY not conductive fluid or you will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> &
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> &
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forever!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The EK kit has no mandrels.
> 
> The EK kit doesnt work with Primochill
> 
> How does a smaller bending rod change the flow rate? Its doesnt.
> 
> No Oil/Lube,just a smaller bending rod is required.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Please don't try to teach me.. just show it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't take lections from no one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My primochill acrylic tubing was bending with EK kid!
Click to expand...

Dude,I wrote this thread,long before Primochill or EK even got into Acrylic.....


----------



## seross69

What is a EK kid or mega kid????


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heracles*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Please don't try to teach me.. just show it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't take lections from no one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My primochill acrylic tubing was bending with EK kit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dis gunna be good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slinky vs B Neg
> 
> Personally I am going to side with B Neg since he knows what he is on about and his builds are spectacular and Slinky your PC
> is :kookoo ]
Click to expand...


----------



## Inviso

Guys, comon, he only had to order more tube 6 times!

BNeg is obviously jealous of his superior skills.

/troll


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inviso*
> 
> Guys, comon, he only had to order more tube 6 times!
> 
> BNeg is obviously jealous of his superior skills.
> 
> /troll


Yeah....sure i am.....

All that tube....wasted.....


----------



## X-Nine

So, I noticed that the E22 bending cord seems to leave black marks briefly inside the tubing once it's all heated. Am I heating too fast/too much? Or does it just do that? The marks all disappear when the cord is pulled out, so I'm not worried, just a question.


----------



## Hefner

Well, after a few hours of sanding I'm able to get the silicone rod inside the tubing with some hand soap as lube. Tomorrow I'll be doing my first bends. I agree though, BIG FAIL for primochill! It looked so easy sliding the silicone rod in and out in their introduction video.


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> What is a EK kid or mega kid????


English probably isn't his first language. Let's not be rude. I like his build minus the logos. There's more than one way to skin a cat.


----------



## leighspped

i don't know if I've missed this but i have a case-labs case with removable motherboard tray. is hard tubing and quick disconnects something that going to work together? my gut says probably not

but i thought i should start here

thanks in advance


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leighspped*
> 
> i don't know if I've missed this but i have a case-labs case with removable motherboard tray. is hard tubing and quick disconnects something that going to work together? my gut says probably not
> 
> but i thought i should start here
> 
> thanks in advance


Why wouldn't it? You'd just need to drain the loop prior to removing items, just like any other build in any other case (except you have a sexy case







)

Also, if you absolutely need to disconnect hard tubing, there's always these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1285&products_id=39667

So, you could put it at a midway point on a tube. Drain the loop, then unscrew the fitting and remove what you need.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> So, I noticed that the E22 bending cord seems to leave black marks briefly inside the tubing once it's all heated. Am I heating too fast/too much? Or does it just do that? The marks all disappear when the cord is pulled out, so I'm not worried, just a question.


Sounds like its not silicone...or what you are seeing is the silicone 'squidging' or 'sweating' on to the inner wall? The squidging is common and nothing to worry about.


----------



## JohnnyEars

E22 bending cords are Nitrile

Description
500mm of 9.5mm Nitrile (NBR) cord for use when heat bending the E22 Ultra clear tubing (12/10mm)

http://www.e22.biz/WC005E2.aspx#.Ut6UgBBFCUk


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnnyEars*
> 
> E22 bending cords are Nitrile
> 
> Description
> 500mm of 9.5mm Nitrile (NBR) cord for use when heat bending the E22 Ultra clear tubing (12/10mm)
> 
> http://www.e22.biz/WC005E2.aspx#.Ut6UgBBFCUk


Ah right,either way,it works and behaves very similar to silicone.


----------



## JohnnyEars

Yep, I found it perfect with E22 tubing


----------



## X-Nine

hehhehe, "Squidge." That's my word of the day.







Like I said, I wasn't too worried about it, just wondering.


----------



## Ninhalem

Why not just use something like Astroglide or another water soluble personal lubricant? I found that was perfect for getting the Primochill silicone tube down the middle of that pipe.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> Why not just use something like Astroglide or another water soluble personal lubricant? I found that was perfect for getting the Primochill silicone tube down the middle of that pipe.


The point is that you dont need to do any of that if the rod is 1mm smaller than the ID of the tube,Geno at Monsoon changed the spec of the rod he used after talking with me about it...and the Monsoon one doesnt stick at all.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Just get a slightly smaller bending rod,0.5mm smaller should do it.
> The primochill tube is inconsistent and the rod is interference fit...mucho fail from primochill.....


Lol, I got their rod and tube, have had zero issues with it. But, I did get a batch of monsoon free center fittings that were all mismatched on the parts, in a sealed box no less. Lol.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> LOL... You make me want to order mandrels and perfect my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, perfection and quality of bends wan't my point. Maybe I took the comment... "The disadvantage of free handing is that it doesn't look near as good."... the wrong way. Not a big deal... and I didn't take the replies as hate. Just a lot of perfectionist here.
> 
> BTW... there are lot more than what you mentioned. It's all about camera angles.


You're telling me.... as I mentioned somewhere .... I finished build on water.... then from moving it while it ran 5 days, I had different seating / viewing angle .... found stuff I didn't like ..... filled with pastel, moved again, found more things I didn't like









This seems to get asked every cupla pages ....I bough 3 packs of 2 x 20" for my straight tube (fittings build) have a pack left over.,....so I used between 6 and 7 feet....if ya bending, go for 20 feet.....and figure at least a third for practicing, a third for mistakes and a third for actual use









For those w/ silicon rod issues, I remember Darlene posted a source where she got hers (McMaster carr ?) and it worked like a charm....wasn't on of the WC vendors as I recall.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] For those w/ silicon rod issues, I remember Darlene posted a source where she got hers (McMaster carr ?) and it worked like a charm....wasn't on of the WC vendors as I recall.


Yeah, I'm using 3' of the 9MM O-Ring cord from McMaster-Carr (part #9679K27) suggested by IT Diva. It's like ~$4 + shipping and it definitely works a LOT better than primochill's bending cord that I feel I wasted money on. I also have the cord that came with the Monsoon kit that I haven't tried, mostly because it's so short (~16") compared to what I've gotten used to using.

I also do add a tiny dab of silicone grease like divers use on o-rings to the end of the cord every now and then to help it slide in/out easier. It's a whole lot better alternative than using Olive oil like Primochill suggests.

Here's that post from Darlene:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nice little find here;
> 
> I'm cross posting this from the WC thread, as it may be helpful here in particular
> 
> For you guys using 1/2" X 3/8" imperial tubing, whether Primochill or from McMaster etc. . . .
> 
> I found the near perfect insert cord for bending . . .
> 
> It doesn't seem as tight and "iffy" as the Primochill insert.
> 
> Its Buna N rubber, not silicone, so it isn't as burn proof, but it works fine at bending temps if you don't try to melt the tube.
> 
> It's 8.5mm metric O-ring cord stock, which is 0.354" dia. . . . Just enough under 3/8" to push in easily and get it out again.
> 
> McMaster Carr part number: 9679K27 It comes in various lengths from 3' to 100'. . . . . $1.38 per foot,
> 
> I got a 10' length to experiment with.
> 
> Couple pics below of a quick small radius U-bend, and the cord pushed thru a short scrap and also all the way thru a full 6' length.
> 
> I found this cord to swell a bit more with heat, so I needed to let the bend get cold and the cord to cool as well before pulling it out easily.
> 
> Would be nice if some of you tried it and gave feedback.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah, I'm using 3' of the 9MM O-Ring cord from McMaster-Carr (part #9679K27) suggested by IT Diva. It's like ~$4 + shipping and it definitely works a LOT better than primochill's bending cord that I feel I wasted money on. I also have the cord that came with the Monsoon kit that I haven't tried, mostly because it's so short (~16") compared to what I've gotten used to using.
> 
> I also do add a tiny dab of silicone grease like divers use on o-rings to the end of the cord every now and then to help it slide in/out easier. It's a whole lot better alternative than using Olive oil like Primochill suggests.
> 
> Here's that post from Darlene:


Much thanks for digging that out .... as for the grease, I like that idea better than the Astroglide suggestion







.... Few drops of water doesn't work ?


----------



## Hefner

Tadaaa:

Ignore the ugly bend on the left. It's going to be hidden by a power supply. I'll probably redo that with a 45 fitting when I get some.

gonna finish the loop tomorrow









Gonna order some EK silicone cord as well since this one from primochill is hollow and it makes the tubes flatten a little bit during bending.


----------



## iamkraine

Could someone please link McMaster 12/10 acrylic tube please? I can't find it. A little blind lately.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> Could someone please link McMaster 12/10 acrylic tube please? I can't find it. A little blind lately.


try this,

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/=qd9gvd

thats the 1/2" stuff, McMaster doesn't carry metric tubing.


----------



## adodb

Can i use Monsoon Hardline Pro Bender Kit 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) for E22 12/10mm Acrylic Tubing??


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adodb*
> 
> Can i use Monsoon Hardline Pro Bender Kit 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) for E22 12/10mm Acrylic Tubing??


Not really,it will produce bends but the quality may to be up to scratch


----------



## JottaD

Anyone knows where I can buy *"Monsoon Hardline Kit "* in Europe?

At monsooncooling website they have this two stores for Europe "aquatuning" and "watercoolinguk" both UK stores without the item

thanks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JottaD*
> 
> Anyone knows where I can buy *"Monsoon Hardline Kit "* in Europe?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Monsoon*
> Another update--OCUK/Case King has ordered so the UK/Europe should have Hardline parts in a few weeks. Woot!


----------



## JottaD

Thanks "WiSK"


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> try this,
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/=qd9gvd
> 
> thats the 1/2" stuff, McMaster doesn't carry metric tubing.


Since McMaster doesnt carry it. Is there any other place to get cheaper 12/10mm acrylic?


----------



## ledzepp3

Does anyone have advice that I could use on how to get a tight enough bend to get from a memory block to the CPU block in this configuration? If possible, I would like to keep it strictly to 90* bends on the CPU and memory blocks.



-Zepp


----------



## lowfat

I don't see why you couldn't do two U shaped bends using the top ports on the ram blocks.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't see why you couldn't do two U shaped bends using the top ports on the ram blocks.


I'd do this as well for your setup


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Thought I'd take a crack at bending today, and I managed to get the 4 inch bend I was looking to do... It only took me 12 inches of acrylic tubing to get it right.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd do this as well for your setup


Ideally this is what I'd want. I'm having a hard time getting the bends right, as this is my first time.



-Zepp


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd do this as well for your setup
> 
> 
> 
> Ideally this is what I'd want. I'm having a hard time getting the bends right, as this is my first time.
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp
Click to expand...

Can you switch the planned "in" and "out" on the right mem block?

It would give you a more symmetrical look, and make for much more easily done bends from the CPU "out" to the top of the right mem block.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I'd do this as well for your setup
> 
> 
> 
> Ideally this is what I'd want. I'm having a hard time getting the bends right, as this is my first time.
> 
> 
> 
> -Zepp
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can you switch the planned "in" and "out" on the right mem block?
> 
> It would give you a more symmetrical look, and make for much more easily done bends from the CPU "out" to the top of the right mem block.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

I agree with this,that's how I would do it.
Shame the ports are asymmetric,the older dom blocks had the ports centered in the ends.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Can you switch the planned "in" and "out" on the right mem block?
> 
> It would give you a more symmetrical look, and make for much more easily done bends from the CPU "out" to the top of the right mem block.
> 
> Darlene


Yes, I'd go top port -> CPU -> top port for the symmetry as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I agree with this,that's how I would do it.
> Shame the ports are asymmetric,the older dom blocks had the ports centered in the ends.


That would look so much nicer for situations like these....or a reversal of the side of the blocks the ports are located would be cool too. Perhaps EK could make a circle plug and a logo plug and make it modular


----------



## ozzy1925

the seller said these are 12/10mm but i was worried and measured them at home .Are they really 12/10mm tubing?


----------



## lowfat

They should still work fine.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> the seller said these are 12/10mm but i was worried and measured them at home .Are they really 12/10mm tubing?


Yes, there is usually quite a bit of runout in the dimensions of tubing. Where did you get it from??????


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They should still work fine.


thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, there is usually quite a bit of runout in the dimensions of tubing. Where did you get it from??????


i bought it from a local seller here in Turkey they have some minor scratches like these:



should i use wax to remove scratches or leave them as is?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> They should still work fine.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, there is usually quite a bit of runout in the dimensions of tubing. Where did you get it from??????
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i bought it from a local seller here in Turkey they have some minor scratches like these:
> 
> 
> 
> should i use wax to remove scratches or leave them as is?
Click to expand...

Guess what...I have a guide for that.....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1281014/acrylic-bending-101/0_20


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Guess what...I have a guide for that.....
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1281014/acrylic-bending-101/0_20


thanks but are these jet torches safe to use with 12mm tubing ?Because 12mm seems very gentle


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks but are these jet torches safe to use with 12mm tubing ?Because 12mm seems very gentle


Saw some small pieces off, and practice getting them smooth, you will learn quickly what is too much and too little. Trick is not to be impatient. Let it cool down between tries.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks but are these jet torches safe to use with 12mm tubing ?Because 12mm seems very gentle
> 
> 
> 
> Saw some small pieces off, and practice getting them smooth, you will learn quickly what is too much and too little. Trick is not to be impatient. Let it cool down between tries.
Click to expand...

Exactly this,always practice on scrap and give the tube time to cool,you could also stopper the ends of the tube and fill with water,this will helps reduce the heat that goes into the pipe.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly this,always practice on scrap and give the tube time to cool,you could also stopper the ends of the tube and fill with water,this will helps reduce the heat that goes into the pipe.


Or, just use the Novus plastic polish, works really quickly!!!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly this,always practice on scrap and give the tube time to cool,you could also stopper the ends of the tube and fill with water,this will helps reduce the heat that goes into the pipe.
> 
> 
> 
> Or, just use the Novus plastic polish, works really quickly!!!
Click to expand...

Hmmmm,interesting. Does it remove the scratch or just makes it clear?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Saw some small pieces off, and practice getting them smooth, you will learn quickly what is too much and too little. Trick is not to be impatient. Let it cool down between tries.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Exactly this,always practice on scrap and give the tube time to cool,you could also stopper the ends of the tube and fill with water,this will helps reduce the heat that goes into the pipe.


i will try to get a jet torch tomorrow
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Or, just use the Novus plastic polish, works really quickly!!!


does that really work have you tried yourself?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Hmmmm,interesting. Does it remove the scratch or just makes it clear?


If you use all three steps, it removes it, obviously depending how deep the scratch is, if it's reached gouge depth, ain't nothing gonna work...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> does that really work have you tried yourself?


Yes, it does really work, and yes, I've used it personally myself. I won't ever recommend something to someone without firsthand knowledge of the product. The novus kit is available almost everywhere that I've seen selling plastic goods, S&W plastics, US Plastic, etc, usually 10-12$US and I've had great experiences with it, and, it won't melt your tubing or windows if you scratch a side panel.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> If you use all three steps, it removes it, obviously depending how deep the scratch is, if it's reached gouge depth, ain't nothing gonna work...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Yes, it does really work, and yes, I've used it personally myself. I won't ever recommend something to someone without firsthand knowledge of the product. The novus kit is available almost everywhere that I've seen selling plastic goods, S&W plastics, US Plastic, etc, usually 10-12$US and I've had great experiences with it, and, it won't melt your tubing or windows if you scratch a side panel.


altough i have success with meguiars plastX and meguiars 105 ultra cut compound on my plexi panel they didnt work on this tubing


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> altough i have success with meguiars plastX and meguiars 105 ultra cut compound on my plexi panel they didnt work on this tubing


I've never used Meguiers products on anything but autos, and it's nice stuff, but I prefer the mother's brand products myself







the auto industry stuff seems to be aimed more at softer Plexi and the likes versus hard acrylics IMHO. That's why I bought the Novus kit, and I have been very happy with it. Since the kit isn't to expensive, u might just try and see, there's got to be a local shop for you that has it, they are an international company.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I've never used Meguiers products on anything but autos, and it's nice stuff, but I prefer the mother's brand products myself
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the auto industry stuff seems to be aimed more at softer Plexi and the likes versus hard acrylics IMHO. That's why I bought the Novus kit, and I have been very happy with it. Since the kit isn't to expensive, u might just try and see, there's got to be a local shop for you that has it, they are an international company.


thanks alot, i am trying to buy one of the novus sets but i think noone is selling in my country i found 1 dealer in uk but their shipping cost is 2 times expensive than the product itself


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks alot, i am trying to buy one of the novus sets but i think noone is selling in my country i found 1 dealer in uk but their shipping cost is 2 times expensive than the product itself


Wow, that sucks, sorry to hear it.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Wow, that sucks, sorry to hear it.


i am able to buy the novus tester kit which is 2 oz each







i hope it works


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i am able to buy the novus tester kit which is 2 oz each
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i hope it works


That's the one, it should work great, a little goes a long way, I would try bottle #2 first, if that doesn't do it, then use a *SMALL* bit from bottle #3, and then #2, then #1 to make it really gleam!!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's the one, it should work great, a little goes a long way, I would try bottle #2 first, if that doesn't do it, then use a *SMALL* bit from bottle #3, and then #2, then #1 to make it really gleam!!


thanks again for the useful info , i have learned a lot from OCN best community !


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> thanks again for the useful info , i have learned a lot from OCN best community !


----------



## ProfeZZor X

You won't believe how much acrylic I went through just to get these tiny little bends. The good thing is that I think I have a better understanding of the melting threshold applied to the acrylic while I'm heating it, so it should be a lot easier for me to create more elaborate pieces.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1912.jpg.html


----------



## ledzepp3

Y'all fixed my problems







Thank ya









-Zepp


----------



## TheSimon

When going from cpu to gpu and their in/outlets are not aligned so that a straight piece can go through and you have to bend slightly to the left or right, how do you do it? (example of this situation http://puu.sh/6x7uQ.jpg)


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> You won't believe how much acrylic I went through just to get these tiny little bends. The good thing is that I think I have a better understanding of the melting threshold applied to the acrylic while I'm heating it, so it should be a lot easier for me to create more elaborate pieces.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1912.jpg.html


I've found that short and tight bends are harder, to get just right, than longer bends. What I do is make a longer bend and then cut out the short bend out of the longer one. If that makes sense...


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> When going from cpu to gpu and their in/outlets are not aligned so that a straight piece can go through and you have to bend slightly to the left or right, how do you do it? (example of this situation http://puu.sh/6x7uQ.jpg)


You have to heat up more of the tube and then just as you said bend it left or right.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I've found that short and tight bends are harder, to get just right, than longer bends. What I do is make a longer bend and then cut out the short bend out of the longer one. If that makes sense...


What I ended up doing for the piece between the number #2 to #3 indicator is create the bend and let it cool. Even when it aligned perfectly inside the 90 degree Monsoon jig, I still reheated it again and manually bent a bit further without the jig. The results were great, because it allowed me to tighten the bend even further to about 85 degrees.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> You won't believe how much acrylic I went through just to get these tiny little bends. The good thing is that I think I have a better understanding of the melting threshold applied to the acrylic while I'm heating it, so it should be a lot easier for me to create more elaborate pieces.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1912.jpg.html


I don't understand why you have 3 flow sensors daisy chained, but it looks cool


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I don't understand why you have 3 flow sensors daisy chained, *but it looks cool*


They aren't flow sensors, they are flow indicators. All they do is show that fluid is moving, they don't say how fast it's moving, so I'm pretty sure it was done for looks, so I guess it worked!


----------



## Daggi

I put together my computer again today and everything worked as it should. I was quite worried since the GPU, CPU, PSU, Ram and motherboard were soaked in water. So this is a happy day for me







. Wish you all here on the forum a nice weekend


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I don't understand why you have 3 flow sensors daisy chained, but it looks cool


It's mostly for show in the front of my case, but the idea was to do away with a traditional reservoir in my new build, and use the volume of space within 5 of these indicators to house my coolant. I've already come to my sense and will conceal a FrozenQ Flex somewhere hidden inside the case. Check out my "Liquidator" build, and it'll explain it a lot more.



http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1910.jpg.html


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> It's mostly for show in the front of my case, but the idea was to do away with a traditional reservoir in my new build, and use the volume of space within 5 of these indicators to house my coolant. I've already come to my sense and will conceal a FrozenQ Flex somewhere hidden inside the case. Check out my "Liquidator" build, and it'll explain it a lot more.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1910.jpg.html[/URL
> 
> 
> ]


Lol, gotchya. Looks pretty cool in case like that


----------



## Hefner

Can anyone hook me up with some 13mm OD acrylic tubing in Europe?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Can anyone hook me up with some 13mm OD acrylic tubing in Europe?


Freddy @ Highflow can get the Primochill 1/2" stuff if you ask him (email or just post in forum, product suggestions). He's got blue tube in the shop, but I guess you want clear right?


----------



## TheSimon

Im going to be using primochill acrylic tubing (1/2" OD 3/8" ID) so can i use bitspower 90 deg fittings that are designed for those outer and inner diameters? I'm only concerned because it doesent state explicitly its for rigid acrylic like some of their other non angled fittins.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Can anyone hook me up with some 13mm OD acrylic tubing in Europe?


You can search on eBay. There is allot of shops that has acrylic tubing there.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Im going to be using primochill acrylic tubing (1/2" OD 3/8" ID) so can i use bitspower 90 deg fittings that are designed for those outer and inner diameters? I'm only concerned because it doesent state explicitly its for rigid acrylic like some of their other non angled fittins.


you can use bitspower 90 degree rotary adapter with primochill fittings


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Im going to be using primochill acrylic tubing (1/2" OD 3/8" ID) so can i use bitspower 90 deg fittings that are designed for those outer and inner diameters? I'm only concerned because it doesent state explicitly its for rigid acrylic like some of their other non angled fittins.


Bitspower makes NO fittings that work with 1/2" Rigid Acrylic Tubing. All of their compression fittings are for flexible tubing only.


----------



## TheSimon

Can you recommend any 90 and 45 degree fittings for primochill acrylic tubing then?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Can you recommend any 90 and 45 degree fittings for primochill acrylic tubing then?


90 degree
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Thread_90-Degree_Rotary_Adapter_-_Matte_Black_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145&id=TdRup28J&mv_pc=7769
45 degree
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10375/ex-tub-628/Bitspower_G14_Thread_45-Degree_Rotary_Adapter_-_Matte_Black_BP-MB45R.html?tl=c101s1305b145&id=TdRup28J&mv_pc=7938
and get primochill rigid fittings


----------



## TheSimon

So IT IS ok to use bitspower fittings for rigid acrylic from primochill? I'm so confused


----------



## TheSimon

double post my bad


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Can you recommend any 90 and 45 degree fittings for primochill acrylic tubing then?


Basically, take one of these


And add one of these to it to work with the Primochill tubing.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Basically, take one of these
> 
> 
> And add one of these to it to work with the Primochill tubing.


I think someone needs to do a lot more research and reading before they start water cooling... I hate the idea of some nice parts being fried!!!!


----------



## TheSimon

bottom page post :/


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think someone needs to do a lot more research and reading before they start water cooling... I hate the idea of some nice parts being fried!!!!


He wants 90's, so be it. I personally think rigid tubing should be done with the corners and angles bent into the tubing myself. Or just use the 12mm tubing and all Bitspower stuff.

On a side note, the last batch of items to finish my changes in my STH10 should be here middle of next week.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> He wants 90's, so be it. I personally think rigid tubing should be done with the corners and angles bent into the tubing myself. Or just use the 12mm tubing and all Bitspower stuff.
> 
> On a side note, the last batch of items to finish my changes in my STH10 should be here middle of next week.


you know I like it both ways it all depends on how it is done they both look really good to me..


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> you know I like it both ways it all depends on how it is done they both look really good to me..


True, but I think the Bitspower stuff looks best when done with fittings, and the rigid compressions look best with tubing bends, just my opinion.


----------



## TheSimon

Sorry I'm being dumb, do I attach the bitspower fitting to the bitspower or the other way around? Also I plan on attaching the 45 degree bitspower to the 90 degree to kind of simulate what this guy did except with acrylic tubing http://puu.sh/6yAeA.jpg could you tell me which fittings attach to which to achieve this? Thanks I know I'm asking a lot of questions but i really appreciate your guys help smile.gif


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Sorry I'm being dumb, do I attach the bitspower fitting to the bitspower or the other way around? Also I plan on attaching the 45 degree bitspower to the 90 degree to kind of simulate what this guy did except with acrylic tubing http://puu.sh/6yAeA.jpg could you tell me which fittings attach to which to achieve this? Thanks I know I'm asking a lot of questions but i really appreciate your guys help smile.gif


Sorry I am not trying to be mean but if you can not look at the fittings and tell how they are suppose to work. I would not feel comfortable telling you how to do it as I do not want to be responsible for you destroying your computer. this is just IMHO.. my


----------



## TheSimon

I'm assuming the primochill one screws into the bitspower, so I'd put the 90 deg bitspower onto the rad, then the 45 deg bits power on the 90 deg and then the primochill one on the 45 deg?


----------



## TheSimon

Can someone please confirm this?


----------



## TheSimon

I appreciate your concern, but if it eases your mind I have a friend who's built 3 liquid cooling systems that is going to help and guide me through this build, albeit all his systems were plastic tubing, thats why I'm here asking acrylic specific questions!


----------



## TheSimon

Also kinda off topic of the other questions, I'm buying the monsoon hardline pro bending kit from performance-pcs and (it didnt give me an options to do this on frozencpu) its giving me an options between a 110v and a 220v heatgun, which do you guys reccomend?


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Also kinda off topic of the other questions, I'm buying the monsoon hardline pro bending kit from performance-pcs and (it didnt give me an options to do this on frozencpu) its giving me an options between a 110v and a 220v heatgun, which do you guys reccomend?


Lol, choose the one that fits on your home socket voltage...


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Bitspower makes NO fittings that work with 1/2" Rigid Acrylic Tubing. All of their compression fittings are for flexible tubing only.


You're correct they don't have any fittings that work with 1/2" acrylic tubing, but Bitspower does have fittings for 10mm ID 12mm OD acrylic tubing, and they do have 45 and 90 degree fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*


For example:
http://www.bitspower.com/html/product/pro_show.aspx?num=81093003&kind2=52


----------



## absolutelymods

hi everyone, I am wondering if someone can give me a hand on Bitspower and EK fittings. As discussed, BP does not do the fittings for the acrylic stuff apart from the crystal link 10mm/12mm. So what I am doing is using the new EK 12mm/16mm tubing in my loop. Although I have purchased pretty much ALL of my BP Black Sparkle fittings, I am needing to get the HD EK ADAPTERS
Only problem is, which colour do I buy, the Nickel or the Black Nickel. You guys would know that the finished are different on EK compared to BP. EK has groves going vertical whereas BP has like a diamond finish. That and the colour are the differences so if I can get some advice that would be great.


----------



## iScream1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Also kinda off topic of the other questions, I'm buying the monsoon hardline pro bending kit from performance-pcs and (it didnt give me an options to do this on frozencpu) its giving me an options between a 110v and a 220v heatgun, which do you guys reccomend?


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iScream1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Also kinda off topic of the other questions, I'm buying the monsoon hardline pro bending kit from performance-pcs and (it didnt give me an options to do this on frozencpu) its giving me an options between a 110v and a 220v heatgun, which do you guys reccomend?
Click to expand...

Lol, if you live in the USA get 110V. I THINK most other places use 220V. If you're not sure, you should dbl check. But USA is definitely 110, which is probly why FCPU doesn't offer the option


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> Im going to be using primochill acrylic tubing (1/2" OD 3/8" ID) so can i use bitspower 90 deg fittings that are designed for those outer and inner diameters? I'm only concerned because it doesent state explicitly its for rigid acrylic like some of their other non angled fittins.
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower makes NO fittings that work with 1/2" Rigid Acrylic Tubing. All of their compression fittings are for flexible tubing only.
Click to expand...

Actually, they do make acrylic tube fittings. I'm using them in my build with E22 acrylic tube. IMO they look and function far better than Primochill's offerings.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_1285


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Actually, they do make acrylic tube fittings. I'm using them in my build with E22 acrylic tube. IMO they look and function far better than Primochill's offerings.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_393_1285


Dude, try reading my post. I said they don't make fittings for 1/2" acrylic. Not that they don't make them for acrylic. E22 is 12mm tubing NOT 1/2"!!!!


----------



## absolutelymods

Actually I am looking for fittings for the new ek tubing 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch a butspower do not


----------



## absolutelymods

And ek tubing the new acrylic is half inch


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absolutelymods*
> 
> And ek tubing the new acrylic is half inch


I've used the new EK tube and fittings, they are 12mm, not 1/2", unless they just released something the last week or two. They use the same tube size that the Bitspower stuff does.


----------



## absolutelymods

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/solid-tubing/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2-pcs.html


----------



## absolutelymods

So embarrassed I thought you were replying to my post oops


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absolutelymods*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/tubing/solid-tubing/ek-hd-tube-12-16mm-500mm-2-pcs.html


That's the larger size, it is 12mm ID, 16mm OD, neither dimension is 1/2" equivalent. As far as I know, right now, only EK has fittings that will work with it.


----------



## absolutelymods

thanks for that do you know which of the two nickel colours match the black sparkle i think its the black nickel but just want to check before image an order


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absolutelymods*
> 
> thanks for that do you know which of the two nickel colours match the black sparkle i think its the black nickel but just want to check before image an order


I would guess the black nickel, I got the shiny nickel and they are plain bright silver color, but I can't tell you for sure, sorry.


----------



## gdubc

Check it out y'all, Monsoon Hardline is up at *performance pcs*


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Check it out y'all, Monsoon Hardline is up at *performance pcs*


Hopefully that means we can expect the fittings this week









Also, it's great to see they're offering 2 different sizes


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Check it out y'all, Monsoon Hardline is up at *performance pcs*


Lol, the tube is there, fittings? MIA.


----------



## gdubc

You know the fittings can't be far behind. Wish my second w-2 woul d get here already!


----------



## seross69

ordered!!!!!


----------



## absolutelymods

Well I guess seeing we are showing orders I may as well put my 2 cents worth in also. EK fittings (to try first) for the 12/16mm hard line I want to use. I am planning a build that was going to have crystal link and 1/2" config but since seeing the thicker hard line from EK, have decided to go with that. Obviously I need to change the crystal multi link fittings and any compression fittings I have, oh well.


----------



## Krusher33

Sucks that I'm just now working on my acrylics that I bought a year ago with the standard bitspower sli fitting. And now all these fittings and tubings and bending kits...

Meh, oh well. Just gonna do it the old fashion way I guess.


----------



## seross69

*Fittings!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_346_1026_1288


----------



## gdubc

Yes!!!!


----------



## seross69

I have ordered Mine!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## gdubc

Damn you, final w-2!!!! I had my refund by this time last year! It's Killen meh!


----------



## seross69

I was told I also needed Acrylic Glue with the fittings why is this?? Can someone tell me this?? Where you at B????


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I was told I also needed Acrylic Glue with the fittings why is this?? Can someone tell me this?? Where you at B????


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I was told I also needed Acrylic Glue with the fittings why is this?? Can someone tell me this?? Where you at B????


Look at the the monsoon fittings video in the first post.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> •Antimicrobial silver barbs/bases.


Wait a minute...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Look at the the monsoon fittings video in the first post.


I guess i will have to watch the video's but I hate that.. I had much rather read about it and see pictures along with reading.. But I guess I am in the minority...


----------



## seross69

Can I use the my 1/2 X 3/4 rings as I have the white with black carbon... Seemed like I read somewhere you could??


----------



## gdubc

the monsoon hardline tube and fittings are up on frozen CPU now also.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Who liked the fact we have to glue that cap on the tube?







Waiting some feedback from owners...


----------



## gdubc

Seems like a pretty small and simple enough step to me and worth that piece of mind that you know your setup is secure.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Seems like a pretty small and simple enough step to me and worth that piece of mind that you know your setup is secure.


I don't agree, I personally feel that this might be good for an OEM builder who is shipping these things to end users. But I think it is waste for the DIY folk doing builds. I am interested in the "economy" push in fittings that were referenced in the description on PPCS for the tubing though.

I really love the way the monsoon fittings look, that's why I've used the monsoons in my last two flexible tubing builds, but I prefer the way the Primochill rigid compressions work with the o-ring setup.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah the whole gluing of the collar on the end of the tube first seems a no-go to me, at least with my very limited acrylic bending skills so far. On almost every tube I've had to do so far that's had one or more bends in it I haven't been a very good judge of how it's going to sit until after I have it screwed up in place, and quite often I have take it apart and sand a bit more off the end or try to reheat it and rework a bend a little one way or another. Sometimes even after I think a piece is perfect then move on to the next piece after putting it in I realize one or the other or both need tweaking a little so that they look right together.

I'm still getting used to using the Monsoon kit, and it does help a lot with getting the length and bends right, but it has not eliminated the need for me to cut a little long on the ends and creep up on it by sanding, and it's often not obvious to me what else, if anything, needs done until I've mounted the tube at both ends (I'm using Primochill's compressions) so I can see exactly how it's going to sit in there.

Almost none of that seems would be possible after gluing on the collar for the Monsoon fitting. I haven't tried them to know for sure, but I suspect I'd have to get a LOT better at this measuring and bending stuff before I go that route.


----------



## iScream1

I ordered three of the 4 piece 1/2" ID 5/8" OD tube sets last night along with the large mandrel kit and tonight I ordered two 6 packs of the fittings. I'm sure my lack of experience was a factor but the glue on end cap sold me on the Monsoon solution, I have read every post in this thread and I did see the comments about there being very few issues with acrylic tubes coming out of fittings. Still, the more solid mechanical fitting gives me confidence that I can skip flexible tubing for my very first water cooled PC build and use rigid acrylic tubes.

Anyway, that's from the perspective of someone very new to water cooling but not new at all to PC building.

Edit: I get what you guys are saying about sneaking up on your perfect bends and lengths. My build is pretty unique and I think I'll be able to avoid that issue altogether.


----------



## seross69

I am not sure if this is a good thing or bad thing with the glues rings. but I am planning on doing something that most people don't or I don't think they do anyway. I am going to make the loop put it together with out the rings. take pictures and look at it several days and make sure it is exactly like I want it and I am happy with it. It is amazing what you can see in pictures when you enlarge and look at it later.. I hope this helps keep me from wanting to redo after I have glues the rings on!!









time will tell for sure!!


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah the whole gluing of the collar on the end of the tube first seems a no-go to me, at least with my very limited acrylic bending skills so far. On almost every tube I've had to do so far that's had one or more bends in it I haven't been a very good judge of how it's going to sit until after I have it screwed up in place, and quite often I have take it apart and sand a bit more off the end or try to reheat it and rework a bend a little one way or another. Sometimes even after I think a piece is perfect then move on to the next piece after putting it in I realize one or the other or both need tweaking a little so that they look right together.
> 
> I'm still getting used to using the Monsoon kit, and it does help a lot with getting the length and bends right, but it has not eliminated the need for me to cut a little long on the ends and creep up on it by sanding, and it's often not obvious to me what else, if anything, needs done until I've mounted the tube at both ends (I'm using Primochill's compressions) so I can see exactly how it's going to sit in there.
> 
> Almost none of that seems would be possible after gluing on the collar for the Monsoon fitting. I haven't tried them to know for sure, but I suspect I'd have to get a LOT better at this measuring and bending stuff before I go that route.


What makes you think you have to glue the rings on first? It doesn't make any sense to glue them on till after your done with bending and stuff. You could even use the collar without gluing it on to test fit your runs, to snug it up some more. I never got the impression from the videos that the glue came before the bends. You would still measure, bend, cut, measure cut/sand test fit just like before. You would't glue till you're ready to fit it.

Which got me thinking, how many people are gonna forget to add the compression ring before gluing collar on?


----------



## Jimhans1

So, it was mentioned in one of the videos that the "lock-ring" from the flexible fittings could be transferred from an existing build with an adapter/base change and that they would be available as so those with the "standard' compressions could upgrade to rigid without doubling the fittings cost, I am assuming that that would be specific to the 1/2' OD and 5/8' OD tube rings, since the tubing they are selling for rigid is either 1/2" or 5/8"

B-, got any input on this? And do you know or have any insight on the "economy" push fittings????

This is a cut and paste from the PPCS site for the Monsoon Tubing

Product Details:
Available in 8 colors and two sizes and manufactured from premium virgin PMMA for the look you want and the reliability you demand.

Acrylic Hardline from Monsoon allows you to route your tube runs exactly where you want them and eliminates all those unsightly and expensive adapters, tube coils, etc. for the cleanest, most economical loop installations.

Compatible with all three styles of Monsoon Premium Hardline fittings featuring Hard/Lock, *and with Monsoon economy push in style fittings*.

Available Sizes:
•3/8" x 1/2" (13 mm OD)
•1/2" x 5/8" (16 mm OD)

Features:
•Plasticizer free.
•Available in 2 sizes and 8 beautiful colors.
•Premium Virgin PMMA.
•Available in 24" four packs and 30" single packs.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> So, it was mentioned in one of the videos that the "lock-ring" from the flexible fittings could be transferred from an existing build with an adapter/base change and that they would be available as so those with the "standard' compressions could upgrade to rigid without doubling the fittings cost, I am assuming that that would be specific to the 1/2' OD and 5/8' OD tube rings, since the tubing they are selling for rigid is either 1/2" or 5/8"
> 
> B-, got any input on this? And do you know or have any insight on the "economy" push fittings????
> 
> This is a cut and paste from the PPCS site for the Monsoon Tubing
> 
> Product Details:
> Available in 8 colors and two sizes and manufactured from premium virgin PMMA for the look you want and the reliability you demand.
> 
> Acrylic Hardline from Monsoon allows you to route your tube runs exactly where you want them and eliminates all those unsightly and expensive adapters, tube coils, etc. for the cleanest, most economical loop installations.
> 
> Compatible with all three styles of Monsoon Premium Hardline fittings featuring Hard/Lock, *and with Monsoon economy push in style fittings*.
> 
> Available Sizes:
> •3/8" x 1/2" (13 mm OD)
> •1/2" x 5/8" (16 mm OD)
> 
> Features:
> •Plasticizer free.
> •Available in 2 sizes and 8 beautiful colors.
> •Premium Virgin PMMA.
> •Available in 24" four packs and 30" single packs.


If you go back in the fitting video, he uses a gold colored fitting a few times to reference push in fittings. I think those are the monsoon push fits. There are no other manufacturer push fittings that have that design that I know of, but it's an assumption on my part.
As for the other size compression rings, I have some 1/2 x 3/4 free center fittings, and ordered a pack of the 1/2 x 5/8 tube and fittings. I will test fit them and see if it looks like it will or might work. Probably won't be until Thursday though. I didn't see these go up until after hours.

On another note, they have not put up the base + lock collar as separate items yet. So still would have to wait for that. I hope they sell just the lock collars as well. Because as of right now, you make a mistake and cure the glue on that collar and your SOL without buying another fitting.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> If you go back in the fitting video, he uses a gold colored fitting a few times to reference push in fittings. I think those are the monsoon push fits. There are no other manufacturer push fittings that have that design that I know of, but it's an assumption on my part.
> As for the other size compression rings, I have some 1/2 x 3/4 free center fittings, and ordered a pack of the 1/2 x 5/8 tube and fittings. I will test fit them and see if it looks like it will or might work. Probably won't be until Thursday though. I didn't see these go up until after hours.


That would be great thanks +1, but I think the 1/2x3/4 is gonna be too big. Since the rigid is 1/2 or 5/8 OD, I expect it to only be those that would work. But I still l look forward to your update.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> What makes you think you have to glue the rings on first? It doesn't make any sense to glue them on till after your done with bending and stuff. You could even use the collar without gluing it on to test fit your runs, to snug it up some more. I never got the impression from the videos that the glue came before the bends. You would still measure, bend, cut, measure cut/sand test fit just like before. You would't glue till you're ready to fit it.
> 
> Which got me thinking, how many people are gonna forget to add the compression ring before gluing collar on?


I guess you didn't understand what I was saying at all then. I never thought that you had to or even could do the bends after putting the collar on, but rather that at least with the primochill compressions I have not been able to tell well enough how a tube is going to sit until it is in place and the fitting completely snugged up tight in place. What looks like a perfect fit / angle with it just dummied up in there to the base of the fittings is often usually not the same once the fittings are screwed tight. A straight piece or maybe one with just one bend is one thing, but I've not had any tubes with multiple bends that I didn't have to tighten in place and then remove and make adjustments to several times, and often it's been only after thinking a tube is good it becomes apparent to me that it wasn't quite right after all only after bending / installing other tubes in place after it, as that's when even a fraction of a degree out of parallel or right-angle planes between two tubes becomes an eyesore.

After watching the Monsoon video I do not believe it would be any different with the monsoon fittings. It looks to me that exactly how the tube is going to be will not become apparent, at least to me, until after the collar is glued on and the fitting tightened down in place.


----------



## ozzy1925

I never liked the look of monsoon fittings.Whats the point of gluing makes it harder to bend and seems pointless to me.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> I never liked the look of monsoon fittings.Whats the point of gluing makes it harder to bend and seems pointless to me.


The gluing wouldn't be done till AFTER the bending was finished sir.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The gluing wouldn't be done till AFTER the bending was finished sir.


yes, i saw on the video but i think you should measure gluing part before bending which looks harder for a starter like me.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> yes, i saw on the video but i think you should measure gluing part before bending which looks harder for a starter like me.


I agree, it looks that the "ring" might add length to the tube. I won't pass judgment on them yet, as I have not actually gotten to use this iteration of the Monsoon fittings, but I think the ring/glue idea is a little over the top. if I can get the adapters alone to use the Monsoons I've got already, I will try them out, otherwise, I will not.....


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> I agree, it looks that the "ring" might add length to the tube. I won't pass judgment on them yet, as I have not actually gotten to use this iteration of the Monsoon fittings, but I think the ring/glue idea is a little over the top. if I can get the adapters alone to use the Monsoons I've got already, I will try them out, otherwise, I will not.....


please post the resuts if you can


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> please post the resuts if you can


when and if, I definitely will!


----------



## Jimhans1

Now what are these in the black square???? Those fittings look interesting!! This photo is on the PPCS website......


----------



## oelkanne

I´m scared to ask but....some Germans arond here that could help me with shipping from the glory USA to me ??


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Now what are these in the black square???? Those fittings look interesting!! This photo is on the PPCS website......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any guesses what those are?
Any chance they are non "mission-critical" fittings that don't need the glued on collar?

Anyway, I took a look again at Monsoon's http://monsooncooling.com webpage and AFAICT there's still no mention of anything about any of their Hardline products. Not even the bending kit that's been out for a little while now, much less anything about their acrylic tubing or fittings, and as best as I can tell they don't have a facebook page or anything else, unless my google-fu is currently FAIL.

I will say that their webpage is pretty cool in design. I like it a lot, but there's not a lot of useful info there. It's a bit disappointing that we have to find out just about everything specific about their products in forums like this. I do wonder how much better sales for them might be if they did have a webpage that better promoted their products, especially their new products before they are released, linked to retail sellers of their products in various regions, and gave specific information about their entire product-line like manuals/instructions, size specs, materials, compatibility, how-to videos, etc, maybe even host their own forums (which are typically staffed/moderated by volunteers) to let current/potential users of their products post pictures/build-logs of their rigs and ask/answer questions.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Any guesses what those are?
> *Any chance they are non "mission-critical" fittings that don't need the glued on collar?
> *
> Anyway, I took a look again at Monsoon's http://monsooncooling.com webpage and AFAICT there's still no mention of anything about any of their Hardline products. Not even the bending kit that's been out for a little while now, much less anything about their acrylic tubing or fittings,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and as best as I can tell they don't have a facebook page or anything else, unless my google-fu is currently FAIL.
> 
> I will say that their webpage is pretty cool in design. I like it a lot, but there's not a lot of useful info there. It's a bit disappointing that we have to find out just about everything specific about their products in forums like this. I do wonder how much better sales for them might be if they did have a webpage that better promoted their products, especially their new products before they are released, linked to retail sellers of their products in various regions, and gave specific information about their entire product-line like manuals/instructions, size specs, materials, compatibility, hosting their videos, etc, maybe even host their own forums (which are typically staffed/moderated by volunteers) to let current/potential users of their products post pictures/build-logs of their rigs and ask/answer questions.


That's what I'm hoping that they are!!!! I'd love to see those in both the 1/2"OD and 5/8"OD tubing compatibilities.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Any guesses what those are?
> *Any chance they are non "mission-critical" fittings that don't need the glued on collar?
> *
> Anyway, I took a look again at Monsoon's http://monsooncooling.com webpage and AFAICT there's still no mention of anything about any of their Hardline products. Not even the bending kit that's been out for a little while now, much less anything about their acrylic tubing or fittings,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and as best as I can tell they don't have a facebook page or anything else, unless my google-fu is currently FAIL.
> 
> I will say that their webpage is pretty cool in design. I like it a lot, but there's not a lot of useful info there. It's a bit disappointing that we have to find out just about everything specific about their products in forums like this. I do wonder how much better sales for them might be if they did have a webpage that better promoted their products, especially their new products before they are released, linked to retail sellers of their products in various regions, and gave specific information about their entire product-line like manuals/instructions, size specs, materials, compatibility, hosting their videos, etc, maybe even host their own forums (which are typically staffed/moderated by volunteers) to let current/potential users of their products post pictures/build-logs of their rigs and ask/answer questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm hoping that they are!!!! I'd love to see those in both the 1/2"OD and 5/8"OD tubing compatibilities.
Click to expand...

They do look quite attractive
















If they are a double o ring design like the C47, I'd believe they could work well with the larger tubing size.

If they have only a single o ring, I'd be wary as 5/8" tubing, (1/2" ID) has ~78% more cross sectional area than 1/2" tube with 3/8" ID.

It's that cross sectional area factor that translates to how much "push apart" force the coolant pressure creates.

It might be interesting to build a little test setup with an air reg over a water filled connection to see how much pressure each of the various different fitting brands and types takes before separating . . . .

I see a whole new area of testing opportunity opening up here . . .

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Any guesses what those are?
> *Any chance they are non "mission-critical" fittings that don't need the glued on collar?
> *
> Anyway, I took a look again at Monsoon's http://monsooncooling.com webpage and AFAICT there's still no mention of anything about any of their Hardline products. Not even the bending kit that's been out for a little while now, much less anything about their acrylic tubing or fittings,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and as best as I can tell they don't have a facebook page or anything else, unless my google-fu is currently FAIL.
> 
> I will say that their webpage is pretty cool in design. I like it a lot, but there's not a lot of useful info there. It's a bit disappointing that we have to find out just about everything specific about their products in forums like this. I do wonder how much better sales for them might be if they did have a webpage that better promoted their products, especially their new products before they are released, linked to retail sellers of their products in various regions, and gave specific information about their entire product-line like manuals/instructions, size specs, materials, compatibility, hosting their videos, etc, maybe even host their own forums (which are typically staffed/moderated by volunteers) to let current/potential users of their products post pictures/build-logs of their rigs and ask/answer questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm hoping that they are!!!! I'd love to see those in both the 1/2"OD and 5/8"OD tubing compatibilities.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They do look quite attractive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they are a double o ring design like the C47, I'd believe they could work well with the larger tubing size.
> 
> If they have only a single o ring, I'd be wary as 5/8" tubing, (1/2" ID) has ~78% more cross sectional area than 1/2" tube with 3/8" ID.
> 
> It's that cross sectional area factor that translates to how much "push apart" force the coolant pressure creates.
> 
> It might be interesting to build a little test setup with an air reg over a water filled connection to see how much pressure each of the various different fitting brands and types takes before separating . . . .
> 
> I see a whole new area of testing opportunity opening up here . . .
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Agreed,however,I will put money on the pressure required being several magnitudes greater than what pumps (iwaki exempt) can provide.
Still,testing is testing...I will ask Monsoon for some test samples.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Any guesses what those are?
> *Any chance they are non "mission-critical" fittings that don't need the glued on collar?
> *
> Anyway, I took a look again at Monsoon's http://monsooncooling.com webpage and AFAICT there's still no mention of anything about any of their Hardline products. Not even the bending kit that's been out for a little while now, much less anything about their acrylic tubing or fittings,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and as best as I can tell they don't have a facebook page or anything else, unless my google-fu is currently FAIL.
> 
> I will say that their webpage is pretty cool in design. I like it a lot, but there's not a lot of useful info there. It's a bit disappointing that we have to find out just about everything specific about their products in forums like this. I do wonder how much better sales for them might be if they did have a webpage that better promoted their products, especially their new products before they are released, linked to retail sellers of their products in various regions, and gave specific information about their entire product-line like manuals/instructions, size specs, materials, compatibility, hosting their videos, etc, maybe even host their own forums (which are typically staffed/moderated by volunteers) to let current/potential users of their products post pictures/build-logs of their rigs and ask/answer questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm hoping that they are!!!! I'd love to see those in both the 1/2"OD and 5/8"OD tubing compatibilities.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They do look quite attractive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they are a double o ring design like the C47, I'd believe they could work well with the larger tubing size.
> 
> If they have only a single o ring, I'd be wary as 5/8" tubing, (1/2" ID) has ~78% more cross sectional area than 1/2" tube with 3/8" ID.
> 
> It's that cross sectional area factor that translates to how much "push apart" force the coolant pressure creates.
> 
> It might be interesting to build a little test setup with an air reg over a water filled connection to see how much pressure each of the various different fitting brands and types takes before separating . . . .
> 
> I see a whole new area of testing opportunity opening up here . . .
> 
> Darlene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Agreed,however,I will put money on the pressure required being several magnitudes greater than what pumps (iwaki exempt) can provide*.
> Still,testing is testing...I will ask Monsoon for some test samples.
Click to expand...

I would hope so within these generally smaller diameters, but still, the "grip" of the o ring for increasing length, (larger diameter) is a linear relationship, while the force increase with larger diameter is a squared relationship, so at some point as diameter increases, very low pressures will realistically be a real risk.

But mostly, I'm a science geek, and knowing how many psi it takes to blow wet joints, (water filled) apart for the different brands and models of fittings seems like something good to know.

For those of us who already have air leakdown testing kit, it would not be hard to add that testing capability to it.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Even air testing dry joints would yield good info,looking at the design,30-40 psi seems a reasonable expectation for air only. Its a small matter to hook my my air rig to it,it only goes to 150psi but that should be more than enough,can't see the tube resisting that,yet alone the fitting.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Even air testing dry joints would yield good info,looking at the design,30-40 psi seems a reasonable expectation for air only. Its a small matter to hook my my air rig to it,it only goes to 150psi but that should be more than enough,can't see the tube resisting that,yet alone the fitting.


believe it or not I believe the tube will with stand a lot more pressure than you think... 100 to 150 psi is really not that much.. and dose not require that much at these diameters to hold it. the fittings are another story!!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Even air testing dry joints would yield good info,looking at the design,30-40 psi seems a reasonable expectation for air only. Its a small matter to hook my my air rig to it,it only goes to 150psi but that should be more than enough,can't see the tube resisting that,yet alone the fitting.


The reason I suggested testing a wet joint, is that water is such a good lubricant, and the tiniest migration of water around the o ring, even if it doesn't actually yield a visible leak, could still be the cause of sudden separation failure with no preceding leak.

Dry testing could give unrealistic / unreliably high results.

Testing under real conditions or worst case scenarios I think gives better base line information.

Darlene


----------



## X-Nine

I think people need to chill and wait til others have tested the glue on collar. No, it's not the simplest design, but it's quite unique and offers stability that no other fitting out there can. Will it be a niche product? Maybe, but Geno has hit home runs with all of his products and the guy knows what he's doing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I think people need to chill and wait til others have tested the glue on collar. No, it's not the simplest design, but it's quite unique and offers stability that no other fitting out there can. Will it be a niche product? Maybe, but Geno has hit home runs with all of his products and the guy knows what he's doing.


I agree,I think the glue joint fittings are the best solution,zero insertion force and a clampable o-ring design are pure win from my perspective.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I think people need to chill and wait til others have tested the glue on collar. No, it's not the simplest design, but it's quite unique and offers stability that no other fitting out there can. Will it be a niche product? Maybe, but Geno has hit home runs with all of his products and the guy knows what he's doing.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree,I think the glue joint fittings are the best solution,zero insertion force and a clampable o-ring design are pure win from my perspective.
Click to expand...

I think the one thing they may excel at, is being easy to install tubes into tight areas.

Since they use a face seal o ring, as opposed to barrel o rings, (the merits of each being another debate) it should be easier to get a short piece of tubing in between 2 fittings where otherwise you may need rotaries to screw an assembly into place, or need to use the single o ring C48 style fittings with a risk of "less than maximum" insertion depth.

Darlene


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Ideally this is what I'd want. I'm having a hard time getting the bends right, as this is my first time.


I think it would be easier with the WB rotated 90 degrees so that ports are lined up vertical.....usually better performance too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSimon*
> 
> So IT IS ok to use bitspower fittings for rigid acrylic from primochill? I'm so confused


If you used 10/12 tubing with a Bitspower 90, "out in space" that is no connection to a rad , pump block, whatever you'd need these:

1/2 Pair x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50 a pair
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html

1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $11.99
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145

1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68) - $5.49
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68.html#blank

The C47 is a male G1/4 x female press fit tube 12mm
The C68 is a female G1/4 x female press fit tube 12mm

The Primochill fittings are a "mechanical" match for the Bitspower G1/4 threads, so you can use them and attach to 1/2" tubing...... however they will not be an aesthetic nor material match as they have different appearance and materials of construction.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absolutelymods*
> 
> hi everyone, I am wondering if someone can give me a hand on Bitspower and EK fittings. As discussed, BP does not do the fittings for the acrylic stuff apart from the crystal link 10mm/12mm. So what I am doing is using the new EK 12mm/16mm tubing in my loop. Although I have purchased pretty much ALL of my BP Black Sparkle fittings, I am needing to get the HD EK ADAPTERS
> Only problem is, which colour do I buy, the Nickel or the Black Nickel. You guys would know that the finished are different on EK compared to BP. EK has groves going vertical whereas BP has like a diamond finish. That and the colour are the differences so if I can get some advice that would be great.


I bought like 40 Bitspower "acrylic tube fittings" (I'm talking fittings that physically have an acrylic tube inserted inside) for the "Acrylic Stuff" so I don't know where that "Bitspower doesn't do fittings for acrylic" is coming from. The fittings are modular.... for 90 degree component connections (rads, blocks, pumps etc.) you use a 90 degree fitting and a C47 fitting, the latter which connects to the tube. For 90 bends with no component connection see above.

If ya speaking about EKs larger stuff, that's an EK only thing....they started with the 12/16 for internal res fill tubes, and actually fashion the res so that the single port top works with a G1/4 aquatube but the multiport is actually double threaded with the same hole having G1/4 on one side and 12/16 on the other..... ans yes, they left a mm or 2 in between unthreaded so ya can't go inside one to the other.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The reason I suggested testing a wet joint, is that water is such a good lubricant, and the tiniest migration of water around the o ring, even if it doesn't actually yield a visible leak, could still be the cause of sudden separation failure with no preceding leak.
> 
> Dry testing could give unrealistic / unreliably high results.
> 
> Testing under real conditions or worst case scenarios I think gives better base line information.


I can confirm that ...... pulling apart dry joints is a "grunt inducing" activity w/ BP and 10/12. ..... When I assembled a joint, had a water dish (just had 60s flashback to Madge ..... "It's Palmolive, you're soaking in it" ) and Id dip the tube and or fitting in prior to each assembly, went on easy, slid off easy......even when I drained loop and adjusted joint or 2, came off and went on quite easily.

No glue joints for me..... I had my loop up 5 days on DW before disassembling and redoing 2 - 3 tubes I wasn't happy with .... now that I'm looking at it from different angle there's 1 or 2 tubes i will redo when take down for inspection and cleaning after a year.

If i was getting paid $10k to do a build and shipping it somewhere, I see the attraction.... also until we have matching style fittings for those tight spots and rad drains, the style clash would bother me.....but I gotta think these will come in time.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Ideally this is what I'd want. I'm having a hard time getting the bends right, as this is my first time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think it would be easier with the WB rotated 90 degrees so that ports are lined up vertical.....usually better performance too.
Click to expand...

Its because the jet plate is inline with the die I think.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its because the jet plate is inline with the die.


I think with LGA2011 the blocks actually perform a bit better with they are rotated 90 degrees.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Its because the jet plate is inline with the die.
> 
> 
> 
> I think with LGA2011 the blocks actually perform a bit better with they are rotated 90 degrees.
Click to expand...

Possibly,the die/chip size is significantly larger.



The die is square rather than the strip of the 115X chips too.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think with LGA2011 the blocks actually perform a bit better with they are rotated 90 degrees.


I was going by this which shows, at least the way I read it, best orientation being vertical for all CPUs

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
Quote:


> Best orientation for water blocks cooling Sandy Bridge-E, Ivy Bridge, Haswell and *Ivy Bridge - E* CPUs (in alphabetic order):


All three EK Blcoks and in fact every block but the Heatkiller is vertical ...(Swiftech Apogee is diagonal)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think with LGA2011 the blocks actually perform a bit better with they are rotated 90 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> I was going by this which shows, at least the way I read it, best orientation being vertical for all CPUs
> 
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?285753-CPU-water-blocks-roundup
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Best orientation for water blocks cooling Sandy Bridge-E, Ivy Bridge, Haswell and *Ivy Bridge - E* CPUs (in alphabetic order):
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All three EK Blcoks and in fact every block but the Heatkiller is vertical ...(Swiftech Apogee is diagonal)
Click to expand...

The Heatkiller.
Still got it....

EDIT:actually,the die is the other way round,not horizontal but vertical.


----------



## absolutelymods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> If ya speaking about EKs larger stuff, that's an EK only thing....they started with the 12/16 for internal res fill tubes, and actually fashion the res so that the single port top works with a G1/4 aquatube


Thanks for that, yep the thicker stuff is what
i was talking about. Appreciate your advice!!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I think it would be easier with the WB rotated 90 degrees so that ports are lined up vertical.....usually better performance too.
> If you used 10/12 tubing with a Bitspower 90, "out in space" that is no connection to a rad , pump block, whatever you'd need these:
> 
> 1/2 Pair x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50 a pair
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html
> 
> 1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $11.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145
> 
> 1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68) - $5.49
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68.html#blank
> 
> The C47 is a male G1/4 x female press fit tube 12mm
> The C68 is a female G1/4 x female press fit tube 12mm


using c68 together with c47 on the 90° is necessary?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> using c68 together with c47 on the 90° is necessary?


If you want to have tube coming out of both sides of the 90 degree fitting, yes. Not if the fitting is screwed into a res, block, rad, etc. In that case you just need a C47.


----------



## X-Nine

Just use their new acrylic compression fittings instead of the old C47s.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you want to have tube coming out of both sides of the 90 degree fitting, yes. Not if the fitting is screwed into a res, block, rad, etc. In that case you just need a C47.


am i understand correctly?if we dont use the c68 on the 90 degree the tubing can not be tighten ?


----------



## DaaQ

Hard line base adapters and accessories are up

1/2 x 3/4 are only ones not interchangeable. This is according to Geno. If I read his email right.


----------



## gdubc

Awesome to see I can use my current 3/8"×5/8" fittings as well.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...]
> If you used 10/12 tubing with a Bitspower 90, "out in space" that is no connection to a rad , pump block, whatever you'd need these:
> 
> 1/2 Pair x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50 a pair
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html
> 
> 1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $11.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145
> 
> 1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68) - $5.49
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68.html#blank
> 
> The C47 is a male G1/4 x female press fit tube 12mm
> The C68 is a female G1/4 x female press fit tube 12mm
> 
> [...]
> 
> 
> 
> using c68 together with c47 on the 90° is necessary?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you want to have tube coming out of both sides of the 90 degree fitting, yes. Not if the fitting is screwed into a res, block, rad, etc. In that case you just need a C47.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> am i understand correctly?if we dont use the c68 on the 90 degree the tubing can not be tighten ?
Click to expand...

You completely lost me.

You must be thinking of something other than what Jack mentioned / linked to.

The 90 degree fitting Jack was talking about has G1/4 threads on either side - male threads on one end and female threads on the other. No, you cannot attach a tube to the 90 degree rotary fitting without some sort of fitting made for tubing.

The two fittings Jack mentioned are Bitspower's crystal link fittings for 12mm acrylic tube, which are identical except one has male threads and the other has female, so one would fit on one side of a 90 degree fitting and the other on the opposite end.

Soooo, if you needed to attach 12mm OD acrylic tubing to both ends of a bitspower 90 degree fitting, you could use a C47 (male) and a C68 (female). That's all he was saying.



edit:
Only reason I can think of to use a 90 degree fitting with acrylic tube on either side like that would be if for whatever the reason you don't want to heat the acrylic and do a bend. Personally I'm not a fan of doing that. Besides being expensive it just looks really ugly to me. Best thing about acrylic imho are the beautiful bends and less fittings. But that's just me. To each their own.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...]
> If you used 10/12 tubing with a Bitspower 90, "out in space" that is no connection to a rad , pump block, whatever you'd need these:
> 
> 1/2 Pair x Bitspower SLI / Crossfire Multi-Link Adapter Pair - Matte Black (BP-MBWP-C47) - $11.50 a pair
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10743/ex-tub-668/Bitspower_SLI_Crossfire_Multi-Link_Adapter_Pair_-_Matte_Black_BP-MBWP-C47.html
> 
> 1 x Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Rotary 90° G1/4" Adapter (BP-MB90R) - $11.99
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10376/ex-tub-629/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Rotary_90_G14_Adapter_BP-MB90R.html?tl=c101s1306b145
> 
> 1 x Bitspower G1/4 Matte Black Multi-Link Adapter (BP-MBWP-C68) - $5.49
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12748/ex-tub-818/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_Multi-Link_Adapter_BP-MBWP-C68.html#blank
> 
> The C47 is a male G1/4 x female press fit tube 12mm
> The C68 is a female G1/4 x female press fit tube 12mm
> 
> [...]
> 
> 
> 
> using c68 together with c47 on the 90° is necessary?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you want to have tube coming out of both sides of the 90 degree fitting, yes. Not if the fitting is screwed into a res, block, rad, etc. In that case you just need a C47.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> am i understand correctly?if we dont use the c68 on the 90 degree the tubing can not be tighten ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You completely lost me.
> 
> You must be thinking of something other than what Jack mentioned / linked to.
> 
> The 90 degree fitting Jack was talking about has G1/4 threads on either side - male threads on one end and female threads on the other. No, you cannot attach a tube to the 90 degree rotary fitting without some sort of fitting made for tubing.
> 
> The two fittings Jack mentioned are Bitspower's crystal link fittings for 12mm acrylic tube, which are identical except one has male threads and the other has female, so one would fit on one side of a 90 degree fitting and the other on the opposite end.
> 
> Soooo, if you needed to attach 12mm OD acrylic tubing to both ends of a bitspower 90 degree fitting, you could use a C47 (male) and a C68 (female). That's all he was saying.
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Only reason I can think of to use a 90 degree fitting with acrylic tube on either side like that would be if for whatever the reason you don't want to heat the acrylic and do a bend. Personally I'm not a fan of doing that. Besides being expensive it just looks really ugly to me. Best thing about acrylic imho are the beautiful bends and less fittings. But that's just me. To each their own.
Click to expand...

IT actually doesn't look bad, and the radius on some bends is absolutely impossible to make if you want as straight of tubing as possible without making major adjustments. Not all configurations can be met by simply bending acrylic tube.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Hard line base adapters and accessories are up
> 
> 1/2 x 3/4 are only ones not interchangeable. This is according to Geno. If I read his email right.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Awesome to see I can use my current 3/8"×5/8" fittings as well.


yes He told me it was the OD that mattered as long as it is the same then your old fittings will work....


----------



## DaaQ

Also was informed that the push fit "economy" fittings are about 2-3 weeks out.

Jimhans1 nailed it on that pic a bit back in the thread. Those are the economy fittings.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Also was informed that the push fit "economy" fittings are about 2-3 weeks out.
> 
> Jimhans1 nailed it on that pic a bit back in the thread. Those are the economy fittings.


Sweet! Thx for da update!!


----------



## luciddreamer124

I just received my full Monsoon bending kit today, and I just tried a couple 90s. They turned out very well. However, on both of them I noticed a slight "blurring" of the acrylic on the bend area itself. It doesn't look like it bubbled at all, it just isn't crystal clear like the rest of the tube (using E22). I am making sure to hold the tub 3-4 inches above the heat gun and rotating constantly. Am I just holding it there too long? Or is this an inevitable side effect of using the mandrels?


----------



## DaaQ

I've had E22 do that as well. Just can't see it until right up close. I have not tried this, but you could try reheating it some and let it cool down slowly in its position. Doesn't need to be bending temp hot but enough to where it could bend. I think it's mention back early in this thread. But like I said, I never tried it. Not noticeable from a distance.


----------



## luciddreamer124

When you say "you've had E22 do this" do you mean that this was the only brand in which this occurred? And you're right, not noticeable until close up. Plus I'll be using pastel coolant so I don't think it will make a difference. I would like to know if I can eliminate the problem though.


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> When you say "you've had E22 do this" do you mean that this was the only brand in which this occurred? And you're right, not noticeable until close up. Plus I'll be using pastel coolant so I don't think it will make a difference. I would like to know if I can eliminate the problem though.


I just looked at a primochill tube and it doesn't have it, but it also does not have as extreme of bends on it. My E22 that does have that effect on it are the ones over 90 degree bends, most noticeable on the 180 piece.

Try heating up further out from the actual bend, and perform the bend kinda slow. If you know what I mean? Kinda roll it into the bend. If that makes sense.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> I just looked at a primochill tube and it doesn't have it, but it also does not have as extreme of bends on it. My E22 that does have that effect on it are the ones over 90 degree bends, most noticeable on the 180 piece.
> 
> Try heating up further out from the actual bend, and perform the bend kinda slow. If you know what I mean? Kinda roll it into the bend. If that makes sense.


'

Ya I know what you mean. It could be that the tube is being "stretched" between 2 colder areas, which is causing this?


----------



## DaaQ

Yes, you said it better !


----------



## X-Nine

Heat a larger area. Also, be sure not to rub your gloves over that arts until it's cool.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> You completely lost me.
> 
> You must be thinking of something other than what Jack mentioned / linked to.
> 
> The 90 degree fitting Jack was talking about has G1/4 threads on either side - male threads on one end and female threads on the other. No, you cannot attach a tube to the 90 degree rotary fitting without some sort of fitting made for tubing.
> 
> The two fittings Jack mentioned are Bitspower's crystal link fittings for 12mm acrylic tube, which are identical except one has male threads and the other has female, so one would fit on one side of a 90 degree fitting and the other on the opposite end.
> 
> Soooo, if you needed to attach 12mm OD acrylic tubing to both ends of a bitspower 90 degree fitting, you could use a C47 (male) and a C68 (female). That's all he was saying.
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Only reason I can think of to use a 90 degree fitting with acrylic tube on either side like that would be if for whatever the reason you don't want to heat the acrylic and do a bend. Personally I'm not a fan of doing that. Besides being expensive it just looks really ugly to me. Best thing about acrylic imho are the beautiful bends and less fittings. But that's just me. To each their own.


ahh sorry looking at this picture:


i tought you install c47 and c68 on the same side but yea i got it now c68 is female


----------



## morper

Anyone know a reseller with the full monsoon 1/2 x 5/8 / 16mm bending kit in stock? Performance Pcs and Fcpu is out of stock and I cant seem to find any other reseller


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> Anyone know a reseller with the full monsoon 1/2 x 5/8 / 16mm bending kit in stock? Performance Pcs and Fcpu is out of stock and I cant seem to find any other reseller


Specialtech are getting them as we speak,OCUK have a few sets coming too.


----------



## morper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Specialtech are getting them as we speak,OCUK have a few sets coming too.


alright, thanks for the tip, wonder if they will have it in stock before chinese new year end


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Heatkiller.
> Still got it....
> 
> EDIT:actually,the die is the other way round,not horizontal but vertical.


So does that mean we are in agreement on the EK block being slightly better vertical ..... I don't wanna be parrotting Extremesystems going forward if there's other data to the contrary.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> using c68 together with c47 on the 90° is necessary?


As I had indicated .... when you connect to a component, fittings wise, you need a G1/4 to go into the component (male end screws into components and female THD end left) and you need a push-in end for the tube ..... the C47 gives you the G1/4 x push in connection. Now when making a 90 "in air" , the 90 has one female and one male end G1/4 .... so you need 2 thd x tube transitions..... the C47 has a male thread for the male end of the 900 and the C68 has the female for the male end of the 90



As ya can see in the pic above, the 90 is THD x THD so it can't connect to a tube .... the C47 on right screws into the 90 .... the bottom of the 90 screws into a) a component like a rad, pump whatever or b) into a C68 so that you can connect a tube on both sides.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> am i understand correctly?if we dont use the c68 on the 90 degree the tubing can not be tighten ?


C47 (male thread x tube) / C68 (female thread x tube) simply makes the transition from threaded to push on joints and has nothing to do with tightening...... rotary fittings should be used if tightening is an issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> IT actually doesn't look bad, and the radius on some bends is absolutely impossible to make if you want as straight of tubing as possible without making major adjustments. Not all configurations can be met by simply bending acrylic tube.


I like both ..... depends on what ya going for .... for example I wouldn't use modern style light fixtures or windows on my house because it's a converted dairy barn built in the 1840s.... just wouldn't "jive".

In my build, I was going for an "industrial look"..... strict "form and function" decision... no colored lighting / UV schemes just white light to highlight the details ..... much like the plants we build. Think Porsche rather than Ferrari .... I find both cars extremely attractive but as an engineer I prefer the more "functional" oriented design of the Porsche over the more stylish "form" of the Ferrari.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The Heatkiller.
> Still got it....
> 
> EDIT:actually,the die is the other way round,not horizontal but vertical.
> 
> 
> 
> So does that mean we are in agreement on the EK block being slightly better vertical ..... I don't wanna be parrotting Extremesystems going forward if there's other data to the contrary.
Click to expand...

There was no disagreement with that statement anyway,it was my reasoning behind why that may be. My first thought was the Jet plate being inline with the die,which it isnt. I can only think that the bowed contact is just that little bit better with the EK and the plate that was used. EK have various thickness plates to modify the contact bow,they are unique in this.


----------



## HeyBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Specialtech are getting them as we speak,OCUK have a few sets coming too.


Oh no, spanner in the works!

I had read that OCUK had some en route but didn't no Specialtech had put in an order also. Any idea when they're due in, BNeg? Apparently they should be up for pre order on OCUK soon, need to decide whether I want to risk waiting for them to actually come in... Atleast i'm going for the less popular 16mm kit I suppose


----------



## Krusher33

I gave up. I have a couple areas that required multiple bends. Would have it going good till the last couple of bends and it gets fudged up.

Thinking about going to back to the copper pipe plan.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There was no disagreement with that statement anyway,it was my reasoning behind why that may be. My first thought was the Jet plate being inline with the die,which it isnt. I can only think that the bowed contact is just that little bit better with the EK and the plate that was used. EK have various thickness plates to modify the contact bow,they are unique in this.


Most frequent comment I have heard here from reviewers had to do with aligning the longer axis of the CPU die with the micro channels. As for the jet plates, the explanation I got was that the purpose of the jet plates is primarily to control flow rate / turbulence thru the block.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There was no disagreement with that statement anyway,it was my reasoning behind why that may be. My first thought was the Jet plate being inline with the die,which it isnt. I can only think that the bowed contact is just that little bit better with the EK and the plate that was used. EK have various thickness plates to modify the contact bow,they are unique in this.
> 
> 
> 
> Most frequent comment I have heard here from reviewers had to do with aligning the longer axis of the CPU die with the micro channels. As for the jet plates, the explanation I got was that the purpose of the jet plates is primarily to control flow rate / turbulence thru the block.
Click to expand...

You are correct,they are but there are different depths for different plates,this modifies the contact patch also.


----------



## Daggi

Isn't she a beauty? I mean the piggy LOL







. Beginning to be happy with how it looks. Thinking of switching to moonson fittings for all 180 degree bends, just for safety reasons. Waiting for Mayhem's pastel coolant to arrive in the mail. Are using distilled water until I get the new coolant. If the budget allows, I'll buy me two new graphics cards in the near future.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Isn't she a beauty? I mean the piggy LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Beginning to be happy with how it looks. Thinking of switching to moonson fittings for all 180 degree bends, just for safety reasons. Waiting for Mayhem's pastel coolant to arrive in the mail. Are using distilled water until I get the new coolant. If the budget allows, I'll buy me two new graphics cards in the near future.


Jealous. Did you have many trial and errors or something? I couldn't get multiple bends like yours.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Jealous. Did you have many trial and errors or something? I couldn't get multiple bends like yours.


The bending was really easy with the Moonson kit. Most of the tube bending went OK at first attempt, but It did take some time with all the measuring. I had a major leak when one of the 180 bends popped out







The fault was some oil on the o-rings inside the fittings. Have to clean my box with fittings


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Jealous. Did you have many trial and errors or something? I couldn't get multiple bends like yours.
> 
> 
> 
> The bending was really easy with the Moonson kit. Most of the tube bending went OK at first attempt, but It did take some time with all the measuring. I had a major leak when one of the 180 bends popped out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The fault was some oil on the o-rings inside the fittings. Have to clean my box with fittings
Click to expand...

Oh ok thanks for answering.

My issue isn't so much with the dimensions. It has to do with getting a couple of good bends, and then a bend that... not kinks but has folds or wrinkles.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Oh ok thanks for answering.
> 
> My issue isn't so much with the dimensions. It has to do with getting a couple of good bends, and then a bend that... not kinks but has folds or wrinkles.


Are you using mandrels when you are bending your tubes and do you heat the tubes enough?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Oh ok thanks for answering.
> 
> My issue isn't so much with the dimensions. It has to do with getting a couple of good bends, and then a bend that... not kinks but has folds or wrinkles.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using mandrels when you are bending your tubes and do you heat the tubes enough?
Click to expand...

No, I was doing it the ghetto way with supplies that I had way back when this thread first started. Before all these bending kits, and rigid tubing fittings and etc came out.

I watch the Monsoon heatgun guide and from what I understand I heated it up too fast. Or something. Basically I was being impatient.

I'll buy some more tubing soon to try again.

I really don't want to spend $ on stuff (like the mandrels) that I don't think I'll use again after this build and have a hard time selling.


----------



## USFORCES

Got more black tubing in the mail today and 4 more tubes to bend this weekend so it should be all black when done, so wish me luck











These green tubes are just temporary


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Oh ok thanks for answering.
> 
> My issue isn't so much with the dimensions. It has to do with getting a couple of good bends, and then a bend that... not kinks but has folds or wrinkles.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using mandrels when you are bending your tubes and do you heat the tubes enough?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *No, I was doing it the ghetto way with supplies that I had way back when this thread first started. Before all these bending kits, and rigid tubing fittings and etc came out.*
> 
> I watch the Monsoon heatgun guide and from what I understand I heated it up too fast. Or something. Basically I was being impatient.
> 
> I'll buy some more tubing soon to try again.
> 
> I really don't want to spend $ on stuff (like the mandrels) that I don't think I'll use again after this build and have a hard time selling.
Click to expand...


----------



## Krusher33

Needless to say I was out of the scene for awhile and didn't see that things have come out.

I can't justify $40 for mandrels. It needs to be the other way around. $40 for tubing, $10 for mandrels. In my situation, the mandrels will be used once, and the tubing ( I should hope) will last a year or 2. So I'm still sticking to the old fashion way of using coffee can or bending of a aluminum plate like B-neg did in the OP. I still have my 45 deg bend from when I tried it out way back then.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Needless to say I was out of the scene for awhile and didn't see that things have come out.
> 
> I can't justify $40 for mandrels. It needs to be the other way around. $40 for tubing, $10 for mandrels. In my situation, the mandrels will be used once, and the tubing ( I should hope) will last a year or 2. So I'm still sticking to the old fashion way of using coffee can or bending of a aluminum plate like B-neg did in the OP. I still have my 45 deg bend from when I tried it out way back then.


+1

I used some sockets.


----------



## ugotd8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> Got more black tubing in the mail today and 4 more tubes to bend this weekend so it should be all black when done, so wish me luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These green tubes are just temporary
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking great! good luck.


----------



## ozzy1925

new bitspower fittings are in stock at performance pcs:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&keyword=&categories_id=&inc_subcat=1&manufacturers_id=153&pfrom=&pto=&dfrom=01/31/2014&dto=01/31/2014&x=5&y=6


----------



## ftb101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I gave up. I have a couple areas that required multiple bends. Would have it going good till the last couple of bends and it gets fudged up.
> 
> Thinking about going to back to the copper pipe plan.


Don't give up!! You know, I had the mandrels and found that I was still experiencing some of the same problems. I was initially using Primochill tubing but then I moved to E22 and didn't look back. I found it much easier to work with and gave much more predictable and consistent results. Before you go to a different material, try a different tube


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Needless to say I was out of the scene for awhile and didn't see that things have come out.
> 
> I can't justify $40 for mandrels. It needs to be the other way around. $40 for tubing, $10 for mandrels. In my situation, the mandrels will be used once, and the tubing ( I should hope) will last a year or 2. So I'm still sticking to the old fashion way of using coffee can or bending of a aluminum plate like B-neg did in the OP. I still have my 45 deg bend from when I tried it out way back then.


The tubing is cheap to create, and the mandrels are expensive. There's no way anyone could market it that way. The Monsoon Mandrels are aluminum, factor in all the time it took to develop the mandrels and the out-of-pocket cost, marketing, and production, that 40 bucks is more than justified, and after using them, I'd pay 100 bucks for them. They're cheap for tools, and their worth for creating easy bends and making it much easier to bend is priceless.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> The tubing is cheap to create, and the mandrels are expensive. There's no way anyone could market it that way. The Monsoon Mandrels are aluminum, factor in all the time it took to develop the mandrels and the out-of-pocket cost, marketing, and production, that 40 bucks is more than justified, and after using them, I'd pay 100 bucks for them. They're cheap for tools, and their worth for creating easy bends and making it much easier to bend is priceless.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Needless to say I was out of the scene for awhile and didn't see that things have come out.
> 
> I can't justify $40 for mandrels. It needs to be the other way around. $40 for tubing, $10 for mandrels. In my situation, the mandrels will be used once, and the tubing ( I should hope) will last a year or 2. So I'm still sticking to the old fashion way of using coffee can or bending of a aluminum plate like B-neg did in the OP. I still have my 45 deg bend from when I tried it out way back then.
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing is cheap to create, and the mandrels are expensive. There's no way anyone could market it that way. The Monsoon Mandrels are aluminum, factor in all the time it took to develop the mandrels and the out-of-pocket cost, marketing, and production, that 40 bucks is more than justified, and after using them, I'd pay 100 bucks for them. They're cheap for tools, and their worth for creating easy bends and making it much easier to bend is priceless.
Click to expand...

Exactly this,I build a lot of rigs,this will pay for itself easily. However,the mandrels should be available on their own soon enough,you can easily just use the 90 and the 45 rather than the whole kit.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ftb101*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I gave up. I have a couple areas that required multiple bends. Would have it going good till the last couple of bends and it gets fudged up.
> 
> Thinking about going to back to the copper pipe plan.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't give up!! You know, I had the mandrels and found that I was still experiencing some of the same problems. I was initially using Primochill tubing but then I moved to E22 and didn't look back. I found it much easier to work with and gave much more predictable and consistent results. Before you go to a different material, try a different tube
Click to expand...

This is with E22 sadly. I think I just need to figure out the heating or something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Needless to say I was out of the scene for awhile and didn't see that things have come out.
> 
> I can't justify $40 for mandrels. It needs to be the other way around. $40 for tubing, $10 for mandrels. In my situation, the mandrels will be used once, and the tubing ( I should hope) will last a year or 2. So I'm still sticking to the old fashion way of using coffee can or bending of a aluminum plate like B-neg did in the OP. I still have my 45 deg bend from when I tried it out way back then.
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing is cheap to create, and the mandrels are expensive. There's no way anyone could market it that way. The Monsoon Mandrels are aluminum, factor in all the time it took to develop the mandrels and the out-of-pocket cost, marketing, and production, that 40 bucks is more than justified, and after using them, I'd pay 100 bucks for them. They're cheap for tools, and their worth for creating easy bends and making it much easier to bend is priceless.
Click to expand...

If $100 don't mean that much to you, can I have some?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Needless to say I was out of the scene for awhile and didn't see that things have come out.
> 
> I can't justify $40 for mandrels. It needs to be the other way around. $40 for tubing, $10 for mandrels. In my situation, the mandrels will be used once, and the tubing ( I should hope) will last a year or 2. So I'm still sticking to the old fashion way of using coffee can or bending of a aluminum plate like B-neg did in the OP. I still have my 45 deg bend from when I tried it out way back then.
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing is cheap to create, and the mandrels are expensive. There's no way anyone could market it that way. The Monsoon Mandrels are aluminum, factor in all the time it took to develop the mandrels and the out-of-pocket cost, marketing, and production, that 40 bucks is more than justified, and after using them, I'd pay 100 bucks for them. They're cheap for tools, and their worth for creating easy bends and making it much easier to bend is priceless.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Exactly this,I build a lot of rigs,this will pay for itself easily. However,the mandrels should be available on their own soon enough,you can easily just use the 90 and the 45 rather than the whole kit.
Click to expand...

I hope so. It seems to me they threw a bunch of junk in there that aren't needed. Like the gloves... really? I already got some, I don't need to pay more for another pair that I don't need. If I need more, I'll get more on my own.

And it would help to be able to pick and choose which mandrels to make it cheaper because I don't need all of them. I'm sure there are other people feeling the same way.


----------



## X-Nine

Sure, I'll give you a hundred bucks as soon as you develop and sell a tool that's worth that much. Additionally, I've used everything that came in the kit so it's not lost on everyone.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Sure, I'll give you a hundred bucks as soon as you develop and sell a tool that's worth that much. Additionally, I've used everything that came in the kit so it's not lost on everyone.


That's you though. I'm not like you or b-neg. I'm only building this one and don't need to be spending that much. It does not have that much value to me.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> That's you though. I'm not like you or b-neg. I'm only building this one and don't need to be spending that much. It does not have that much value to me.


Sounds a bit short term view. Are you really only doing this rig and then never modding ever again?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> That's you though. I'm not like you or b-neg. I'm only building this one and don't need to be spending that much. It does not have that much value to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds a bit short term view. Are you really only doing this rig and then never modding ever again?
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm done. It has taken me a year to do this last one and it looks like crap to me. It took too long because of lack of money to get supplies and tools and I just don't have the time because of my 2 kids and a wife who likes to have my never ending attention.

I thought I could do it frugally or at least on a small budget but it's just not possible.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Hi guys! Im planing on going acrylic on most of my tubes..
240->GPU, GPU->CPU and CPU->120 and keep 120->res and pump->240 as tubes since they arent that visible and will probably be hard / impossible to rout.




What do you guys think will look the best? (I hope the sketch up is understandable







)
as few bends as possible or more bends and closer to the mobo / walls?

any thoughts? 3rd option?


----------



## lowfat

Don't suppose you have a pic showing the entire loop and not just a super dark pic only showing the window?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Yea, sorry.. dont have any good pics yet







but here are a few from when I was building! a bit more light and detail







hope that helps..


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> 
> Isn't she a beauty? I mean the piggy LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Beginning to be happy with how it looks. Thinking of switching to moonson fittings for all 180 degree bends, just for safety reasons. Waiting for Mayhem's pastel coolant to arrive in the mail. Are using distilled water until I get the new coolant. If the budget allows, I'll buy me two new graphics cards in the near future.


Looking good! 16mm tube right?
Cant wait to start with my own








Would love the hardline monsoon for my build, but.. they costs like 6 times more than, say EK HD








getting quite annoyed about that.. bought 12 monsoon when I started WCing.. turned out the color didnt match my new build.. so changed 8 of them (the visible ones) with red.
Now that im thinking of going acrylic, I will obviously need new fittings again and was hoping I could get the hardline conversion kit. but im using 1/2 3/4 tubing, so thats not possible :S
All new fittings again I guess









Ok.. just finished reading the entire thread. no need for route suggestions any more







gotten a LOT of inspiration from you guys! thx
I just have a few questions..

1: as I mentioned, I will have half acrylic and half tube since I need the tube for my external setup and other reasons..

From the radiator, the upper tube will obviously be changed with acrylic, the lower one will not (pump head wont allow it) UNLESS..
Can I change the first part of the tube with acrylic and do something like "EK HD-> female/female-> Normal fitting" and run soft tubes from that to the pump?
Any chance that that would push out the acrylic or something?
What do you guys think? go for the aesthetic? or just leave that one (and the other one on the other side of the loop)

2: Im gonna be adding mayhems dye drops to the distilled + silver coil and read that one of the advantages of acrylic is "no plasticizing", do I risk plasticizing since I will still have soft tubes in the loop?
XSPC High Flex - 3/4'' / 1/2''

Cheers, ^GaMbi


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Precision machined entirely from marine grade brass *with antimicrobial silver barbs/bases* so you can run pure distilled or deionized water without the need to add antimicrobial additives that can lower cooling performance.


Does anyone think this would be a problem? Some guys says that silver is not that good in the loop...


----------



## failwheeldrive

Had anyone had experience bending 12mm acrylic from e22 or ek using the 13mm monsoon hardline kit? I assume the 1mm OD difference won't mess up the bends, but I wanted to make sure before dropping $80 on the kit, especially when I've got enough angled rotaries to get by without bending at all. Thanks in advance!


----------



## luciddreamer124

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Had anyone had experience bending 12mm acrylic from e22 or ek using the 13mm monsoon hardline kit? I assume the 1mm OD difference won't mess up the bends, but I wanted to make sure before dropping $80 on the kit, especially when I've got enough angled rotaries to get by without bending at all. Thanks in advance!


I recently received the kit myself. I've only done about 3 90 bends with E22 tubing. It fits and works fine. I have noticed some "blurring" of the tube on the bending area. I don't know if that is fault of mine or a property of the tubing.

But yes, the kit works perfectly with E22


----------



## Cataclysm PC

The blurring could be not heating enough or moving it around as it is cooling. That causes wrinkles and clouding in acrylic. Should be a limp noodle and look like glass when bending. If you keep heating past that it will start to bubble, it is a fine line.

If using olive oil and silicone tube the oil will leave a film on inside that has to be rinsed out with warm water a drop of dawn dish soap.


----------



## DaaQ

The blurring is not from the mandrels.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I recently received the kit myself. I've only done about 3 90 bends with E22 tubing. It fits and works fine. I have noticed some "blurring" of the tube on the bending area. I don't know if that is fault of mine or a property of the tubing.
> 
> But yes, the kit works perfectly with E22


Thanks, I'm glad to hear it works all right. I do hope you get the clouding issue sorted out soon though. +rep


----------



## lowfat

Tried to use the mandrels again tonight. Tried for hours and still havent been able to do a bend worth a shait. I was getting far better bends with the roll of tape.


----------



## failwheeldrive

That's weird Brendon, I'd think the mandrels would be so much easier due to the precise angles of each one. What's causing the issue for you?


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Had anyone had experience bending 12mm acrylic from e22 or ek using the 13mm monsoon hardline kit? I assume the 1mm OD difference won't mess up the bends, but I wanted to make sure before dropping $80 on the kit, especially when I've got enough angled rotaries to get by without bending at all. Thanks in advance!


Yes it fits. The OD doesn't matter for this, the ID matters and both tubes have a 10mm ID. That 1mm OD difference is still gonna work fine with the mandrels.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Tried to use the mandrels again tonight. Tried for hours and still havent been able to do a bend worth a shait. I was getting far better bends with the roll of tape.


They are as tight as it gets,if the exterior 'lip' was the actual bend radius I think you would get better results.
You tried 'pulling' them round the former right?


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Tried to use the mandrels again tonight. Tried for hours and still havent been able to do a bend worth a shait. I was getting far better bends with the roll of tape.


At least you had mandrels before you started your acrylic loop. Maybe if they were available, my loop wouldn't be half as bad.









J/K... Just a little playful jab at my free hand work. I know you are a profectionist, and you won't settle for anything less than perfect from looking at your awesome work. Keep at it... and I'm sure you will get better in using the mandrels perfecting your bends. Can't wait to see the finished loop of your beautiful build.









I'm a little curious though... what was wrong with the bends?


----------



## jokrik

Result after all those painful bending hours


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are as tight as it gets,if the exterior 'lip' was the actual bend radius I think you would get better results.
> You tried 'pulling' them round the former right?


I do think the mandrels are a bit too tight.

The inside curve just isnt great. It doesnt seem to be hugging the inside of the bend. The bends are coming out more than 90 degrees because of it too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> At least you had mandrels before you started your acrylic loop.


This is my third acrylic loop. First two didnt have the Monsoon mandrels.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I do think the mandrels are a bit too tight.
> 
> The inside curve just isnt great. It doesnt seem to be hugging the inside of the bend. The bends are coming out more than 90 degrees because of it too.
> .


If it's not hugging, from what little I have done, this is caused by heating too small of a section. I have had best luck - with and without mandrels/forms - heating about 4-5" section of where I need to make the bend. The ones I did like this turned out beautifully near every time (aside from when I "pulled" too much and caused ripples or cracks - happened twice on me before I figured out why)


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> They are as tight as it gets,if the exterior 'lip' was the actual bend radius I think you would get better results.
> *You tried 'pulling' them round the former right?*


I didn't realize you could "pull" on the acrylic while bending it on the mandrel. That would have made a lot more sense instead of tossing away all of those 90 degree angles I made with the wrinkly inner bends. I must have gone through 9 feet of acrylic already because of that, and other bending snafus that involved warped acrylic tubes.


----------



## X-Nine

I watched the videos prior to using the Mandrels (first acrylic build) and while I had a couple of issues at first, it was on my third try that I got the heating and bending methods down.

My advice is to heat almost or the entire length worth of the mandrel's bend, that way when you put the acrylic in and pull it down on either side you have a nice uniform bend with no wrinkles or smudging. I'm using E22 in the smaller set, and it works just fine.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I watched the videos prior to using the Mandrels (first acrylic build) and while I had a couple of issues at first, it was on my third try that I got the heating and bending methods down.
> 
> My advice is to heat almost or the entire length worth of the mandrel's bend, that way when you put the acrylic in and pull it down on either side you have a nice uniform bend with no wrinkles or smudging. I'm using E22 in the smaller set, and it works just fine.


But what about maintaining straight lines? If you have bends that are close to each other, or, if you heat the entire length of acrylic (which I've done), wouldn't the weight of the acrylic and silicone tube inside distort the straight shape in the areas that you don't want bent? I've tried doing close bends on the XYZ axis, and in almost all cases, the lines end up with a little curvature. The build with the purple coolant on the previous page is a good example of what I'd like to achieve (connected to the flow indicator), but it ends up with some distortion in those sharp bends.


----------



## lowfat

6 feet of tubing in. Finally have a 180 worth s damn. I can even fit the compression ring all the way on.









Now only jf I can luck out and get the 90 and 180 down on the same tube without warping the straight parts.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> 6 feet of tubing in. Finally have a 180 worth s damn. I can even fit the compression ring all the way on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now only jf I can luck out and get the 90 and 180 down on the same tube without warping the straight parts.


Well at least I'm not alone on this...


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> But what about maintaining straight lines? If you have bends that are close to each other, or, if you heat the entire length of acrylic (which I've done), wouldn't the weight of the acrylic and silicone tube inside distort the straight shape in the areas that you don't want bent? I've tried doing close bends on the XYZ axis, and in almost all cases, the lines end up with a little curvature. The build with the purple coolant on the previous page is a good example of what I'd like to achieve (connected to the flow indicator), but it ends up with some distortion in those sharp bends.


Oh dear gods that is a PITA in fact - had this issue in my build currently (see log link). Only way I was able to pull off some of crazy multi bends with XYZ and mofoQ axis was to do it on a flat board with a form. Letting everything completely cool, then next heat section to be bent, keep on flat surface twisting tube or hanging part off the edge to allow laying flat for the bend section... dman there were time I swore I was gonna have to stand on my head with my leg on the ceiling and arms behind my back to pull some of them off. But yes... the flat surface helps immensely mandrel or not


----------



## failwheeldrive

lol all the problems you guys are having are making me want to stick with my ******edly huge collection of rotaries


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> lol all the problems you guys are having are making me want to stick with my ******edly huge collection of rotaries


There's "problems" in any new process - called a learning curve


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I watched the videos prior to using the Mandrels (first acrylic build) and while I had a couple of issues at first, it was on my third try that I got the heating and bending methods down.
> 
> My advice is to heat almost or the entire length worth of the mandrel's bend, that way when you put the acrylic in and pull it down on either side you have a nice uniform bend with no wrinkles or smudging. I'm using E22 in the smaller set, and it works just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> But what about maintaining straight lines? If you have bends that are close to each other, or, if you heat the entire length of acrylic (which I've done), wouldn't the weight of the acrylic and silicone tube inside distort the straight shape in the areas that you don't want bent? I've tried doing close bends on the XYZ axis, and in almost all cases, the lines end up with a little curvature. The build with the purple coolant on the previous page is a good example of what I'd like to achieve (connected to the flow indicator), but it ends up with some distortion in those sharp bends.
Click to expand...

That's not hard to do either. You simply back your already bent portion into one of the mandrels (the 180) to stabilize it while making your new bend on your 90 or 45 mandrel.

http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_3.mp4


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question for the guys with some pipe bending experience.

Is it possible to get a very tight 90 degree bend like if you were using a 90 degree fitting with 2 c47 links on each end?


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> There's "problems" in any new process - called a learning curve


Problem is I've already learned the rotary process, I'm just considering bending to save some cash and sell the rotaries lol. Won't be worth it if I have to go through 9000 meters of tubing and spend the next 2 months getting bends right


----------



## ledzepp3

I don't know why, but I feel like the silicone line on the inside of the tube isn't keep it (the tube) open enough when it's being bent. I got it from the Monsoon Mandrel kit, has anyone else thought this?

-Zepp


----------



## lowfat

I've now went through 6 feet of tubing trying to do the first pipe of my loop







.pretty sure i no longer have enough to finish my 3 rigs.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I don't know why, but I feel like the silicone line on the inside of the tube isn't keep it (the tube) open enough when it's being bent. I got it from the Monsoon Mandrel kit, has anyone else thought this?
> 
> -Zepp


I ran into this (at least what I think you are referring to) where the bend kinda flares out at the side like it is being squished flat? This happened to me when doing freehand and with a form - used various cans, bottles etc from around the house. What discovered is a) pulling outward on the tube ends as I bent helped eliminate/lessen that and b) using the mandrel does help that as well since it is not essentially a "flat" surface to bend on, but has a groove to form the whole pipe


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I've now went through 6 feet of tubing trying to do the first pipe of my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .pretty sure i no longer have enough to finish my 3 rigs.


No doubt the acrylic companies are making a killing off of us... I just did one of the most important bends of my loop an hour ago, and it's got some slight bubbling and a couple of small wrinkles. I really took my time with this one, and even tried stretching out the acrylic when I first noticed the wrinkle, but I was no match for it. The piece is still usable in my build and the imperfections are on the non visible side of the rig, with the exception of the two wrinkles, but the conflict in me wants to use more tubing to get it absolutely perfect. At this point I'm already down to only two and a half acrylic pieces left before I'd have to spend even more money to get more, so I might be inclined to call it a day and leave it be. I can always revisit it again later on if it really bothers me.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> I ran into this (at least what I think you are referring to) where the bend kinda flares out at the side like it is being squished flat? This happened to me when doing freehand and with a form - used various cans, bottles etc from around the house. What discovered is a) pulling outward on the tube ends as I bent helped eliminate/lessen that and b) using the mandrel does help that as well since it is not essentially a "flat" surface to bend on, but has a groove to form the whole pipe


This has happened to me too in switching between the Monsoon silicone, versus the silicone PPCs sells by the foot. I got a couple of "teardrop" shapes on the end of the acrylic when I did really tight bends with the Monsoon. I even tried reheating the end of the acrylic with the silicone inside to mold the circular shape back, but in the end it was too far gone to use that piece.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

To avoid the flattening when bending the tube I think we must use a harder insert. Maybe that car tube on the 1º thread, used by @B NEGATIVE, is hard enough?


----------



## Krusher33

With my insert I found that I had heated it up too much and softened the insert. So i tried not heating as much and then I had crappy bends.

Just can't win.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> This has happened to me too in switching between the Monsoon silicone, versus the silicone PPCs sells by the foot. I got a couple of "teardrop" shapes on the end of the acrylic when I did really tight bends with the Monsoon. I even tried reheating the end of the acrylic with the silicone inside to mold the circular shape back, but in the end it was too far gone to use that piece.


Is there a link to the specific product?


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> With my insert I found that I had heated it up too much and softened the insert. So i tried not heating as much and then I had crappy bends.
> 
> Just can't win.


And if you heat the tube up and, after getting it almost at the bendig temperature, inserting the rod?


----------



## HeyBear

The Monsoon hardline kit is available for pre-order at Overclockers UK now







. Just the full kit at the minute, not sure if they plan selling the various sections separately.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Is there a link to the specific product?


I ordered a few feet of this, since some of my bends exceed the 12 inch length.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=38455&zenid=9fbe3485718927b79ea35003fdc7ae4f


----------



## Krusher33

Thinking about switching to PETG at mcmaster. But I'm concerned if the primochill hardline ghost fittings would fit the koolance 380a block?


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> No doubt the acrylic companies are making a killing off of us... I just did one of the most important bends of my loop an hour ago, and it's got some slight bubbling and a couple of small wrinkles. I really took my time with this one, and even tried stretching out the acrylic when I first noticed the wrinkle, but I was no match for it. The piece is still usable in my build and the imperfections are on the non visible side of the rig, with the exception of the two wrinkles, but the conflict in me wants to use more tubing to get it absolutely perfect. At this point I'm already down to only two and a half acrylic pieces left before I'd have to spend even more money to get more, so I might be inclined to call it a day and leave it be. I can always revisit it again later on if it really bothers me.


In my case I probably saved over $150 by using acrylic over fittings. Yes there is a learning curve, but when its done, its so sexy. I have no regrets, and from here on out I'll be building loops strictly from acrylic.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I ordered a few feet of this, since some of my bends exceed the 12 inch length.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=38455&zenid=9fbe3485718927b79ea35003fdc7ae4f


Thanks mate for confirming that







I was looking to get some more line for bending, and I saw this and thought "that'll work!".

-Zepp


----------



## ProfeZZor X

For such simple bends, this kind of wrinkling shouldn't be happening. Whenever I take my time to heat the acrylic, this occurs. Or, when I heat the acrylic evenly and I hurry up to bend it, this occurs. I'm cursed either way.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1972.jpg.html


----------



## Buzz247

That look slike either uneven heating or heating too small of a spot and then bending. The cooler non heated area doesn't allow for the movement and wrinkles. At least that's what I figured out when it happened to me. Back up in the thread -gods I think 2-3 pages now already lol - and see where a fwe people mentioned about a good couple inches on either side of the spot you want to bend should be heated too


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> That look slike either uneven heating or heating too small of a spot and then bending. The cooler non heated area doesn't allow for the movement and wrinkles. At least that's what I figured out when it happened to me. Back up in the thread -gods I think 2-3 pages now already lol - and see where a fwe people mentioned about a good couple inches on either side of the spot you want to bend should be heated too


That's exactly what I do when I heat the tube. In addition to a constant rotation of the tube, I also heat an average area of 5 inches.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That's exactly what I do when I heat the tube. In addition to a constant rotation of the tube, I also heat an average area of 5 inches.


That top bend bubbling is def over heating. The lower... well like i said above is what it "looks" like. Maybe you are at the wrong distance from the tip? For my gun about 3-4" above the tip seems to work for me. Takes longer to reach molten temp but, I figured out that's what I was mostly doing wrong anyway - I was hurrying, just not being patient enough


----------



## X-Nine

I'm not sure why so many people are having issues, if it's the kind of tube you're using or technique. The tube needs to become noodly when you heat it. I use the lowest setting on my heat gun, I rotate the tube while moving it back and forth until the tube is soft (all the while holding either side of the tube JUST above the heated point on either side). As soon as it's all noodly, I take it to the mandrel, wrap it inside the curve and I press and hold on either side of the bend, still above the heated points. I hold it there until it's cooled enough that it won't move at all. I haven't had any wrinkles and only blurring when I've touched the heated spots with my gloves.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> That top bend bubbling is def over heating. The lower... well like i said above is what it "looks" like. Maybe you are at the wrong distance from the tip? For my gun about 3-4" above the tip seems to work for me. Takes longer to reach molten temp but, I figured out that's what I was mostly doing wrong anyway - I was hurrying, just not being patient enough


It could be a combination of a lot of things really. But trust me when I say that whenever I fire up that heat gun, I'm always thinking about the advice and techniques people talk about here.

That piece really isn't as bad as it looks overall, but because of my OCD always getting the best of me - as well as seeing some incredible bend jobs in this and the water cooling thread, I'll probably end up redoing it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I'm not sure why so many people are having issues, if it's the kind of tube you're using or technique. The tube needs to become noodly when you heat it. I use the lowest setting on my heat gun, I rotate the tube while moving it back and forth until the tube is soft (all the while holding either side of the tube JUST above the heated point on either side). As soon as it's all noodly, I take it to the mandrel, wrap it inside the curve and I press and hold on either side of the bend, still above the heated points. I hold it there until it's cooled enough that it won't move at all. I haven't had any wrinkles and only blurring when I've touched the heated spots with my gloves.


I'm using basic E22 tubing... The only difference with your bending technique and mine is that I don't bend the length of the tube, and I use the higher heat setting (holding the tube 4 to 5 inches away, with a wet/soapy silicone tube inside). I'll try it on the lower setting tomorrow and see if I get better results.


----------



## seross69

Reading all the problems with bending I think at first I am going to use the hardline for straight and fittings to make bends and then come back later and add the bent tubes 1 at a time.. allow me to get build done and then bend and do with out the pressure of getting it done. I already have all the fittings I would ever need so this part is no problem anyway..


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That's exactly what I do when I heat the tube. In addition to a constant rotation of the tube, I also heat an average area of 5 inches.


IMO 5 inches isnt enough. Try like 6 - 7.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMO 5 inches isnt enough. Try like 6 - 7.


I was going to say that too, but that's kind of hard to do with so many bends like that so close together.



5 bends like that on a single piece is going to be a tough one to pull off. No surpise you're going though so much scrap. I assume you're going for the extra bends just for the looks? Only asking because it looks like it only needed 3 bends to get from point A to point B.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> That top bend bubbling is def over heating. The lower... well like i said above is what it "looks" like. Maybe you are at the wrong distance from the tip? For my gun about 3-4" above the tip seems to work for me. Takes longer to reach molten temp but, I figured out that's what I was mostly doing wrong anyway - I was hurrying, just not being patient enough
> 
> 
> 
> It could be a combination of a lot of things really. But trust me when I say that whenever I fire up that heat gun, I'm always thinking about the advice and techniques people talk about here.
> 
> That piece really isn't as bad as it looks overall, but because of my OCD always getting the best of me - as well as seeing some incredible bend jobs in this and the water cooling thread, I'll probably end up redoing it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I'm not sure why so many people are having issues, if it's the kind of tube you're using or technique. The tube needs to become noodly when you heat it. I use the lowest setting on my heat gun, I rotate the tube while moving it back and forth until the tube is soft (all the while holding either side of the tube JUST above the heated point on either side). As soon as it's all noodly, I take it to the mandrel, wrap it inside the curve and I press and hold on either side of the bend, still above the heated points. I hold it there until it's cooled enough that it won't move at all. I haven't had any wrinkles and only blurring when I've touched the heated spots with my gloves.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm using basic E22 tubing... The only difference with your bending technique and mine is that I don't bend the length of the tube, and I use the higher heat setting (holding the tube 4 to 5 inches away, with a wet/soapy silicone tube inside). I'll try it on the lower setting tomorrow and see if I get better results.
Click to expand...

I don't heat the entire length of the tube, just enough so that it it matches the length of the mandrel when bent around it,


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I was going to say that too, but that's kind of hard to do with so many bends like that so close together.
> 
> it only needed 3 bends to get from point A to point B.


Werd. Plus I think it would look better.

I personally think a loop with well done and well planned bends would look better than some artistic stuff.


----------



## Krusher33

I'm getting the wrinkles and sometimes a twist looking wrinkle. I'm on the lowest setting of the gun, heating as much area as I can. E22 tubing here too.

I saw a video posted about PETG tubing at mcmaster. Stronger yet easier to bend. Takes a lot longer to cool though. But it definitely sounds like my kind of tubing.

So I might try to sell all my C47's if possible, get some 1/2" compression fittings from either Primochill or Monsoon.

Why the hell not... I've lost so much money so far.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I was going to say that too, but that's kind of hard to do with so many bends like that so close together.
> 
> 
> 
> 5 bends like that on a single piece is going to be a tough one to pull off. No surpise you're going though so much scrap. I assume you're going for the extra bends just for the looks? Only asking because it looks like it only needed 3 bends to get from point A to point B.


The bend you see there is pretty much for aesthetics, but it's main purpose is to anchor those flow indicators into place. I'll be cutting a hole in a wall of acrylic to slide that tube through. That piece there is one of the only two complicated bends I have in my loop, aside from a duplicate just below it coming from the GPU with that same zigzag pattern. My intention wasn't to be like everyone else with a few simple bends and call it a day, I wanted to push the envelope a bit and try something different. And seeing as acrylic's main advantage in water cooling is for bending, I don't see anything wrong with pushing those boundaries if it's there for the usage. After all, if someone doesn't create these sorts of problems to begin with, then a solution won't be found.


----------



## lowfat

This is the run I am having issues with. Almost happy with this one but it is crooked by like 2-3 degrees.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-42-2.jpg.html


----------



## X-Nine

For those of you using E22 tube, are you using the bending cord from E22 or the Monsoon cord? The E22 cord is the one that should be used, that may be where some issues are coming from.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> This is the run I am having issues with. Almost happy with this one but it is crooked by like 2-3 degrees.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-42-2.jpg.html


Did you not use the link on the card for aesthetic reasons? That would have rotated those ports 90-degrees, might have made the runs a little easier.......


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Did you not use the link on the card for aesthetic reasons? That would have rotated those ports 90-degrees, might have made the runs a little easier.......


It would make the CPU to GPU much easier. But it would have made the GPU to top radiator a disaster. By removing the links the GPU port is now on the same plane as the radiator port.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Anyone know a good alternative to the primochill bending kit insert? Cause the one in the kit is hollow in the centre and makes the bends slightly flat.

Acrylic bending is a pain but it's fun lol


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> For those of you using E22 tube, are you using the bending cord from E22 or the Monsoon cord? The E22 cord is the one that should be used, that may be where some issues are coming from.


I'm using the cord from both the Monsoon kit, and some extra cord I bought by the foot through P-PCs. What I've noticed between the two is that the Monsoon cord seems more frictionless than the PPCs cord, which makes it a lot easier to slide in and out of the acrylic tube. And that's without any lubrication on the cord. The downside is that it's only a foot long. As for the other cord, creating multiple bends can be a problem because it tends to really get stuck inside the acrylic. But a good coat of liquid dish soap and water typically does the trick. Plus the boiling of the water inside the tube is a good indicator that the acrylic is almost ready to be bent. The only reason why I use that one more than the Monsoon cord is because of the length. It's also a bit more snug inside the acrylic tube, compared to the Monsoon cord, which seems to have just a little wiggle room.

...Here's the PPCs cord I ended up with. It has a more defined rubbery feel to the touch, versus the plastic-like synthetic silicone cord of the Monsoon kit.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1227&products_id=38455&zenid=9fbe3485718927b79ea35003fdc7ae4f


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> For those of you using E22 tube, are you using the bending cord from E22 or the Monsoon cord? The E22 cord is the one that should be used, that may be where some issues are coming from.


Mine is very much like OP's, a silicon fuel line with another fuel line inside of it. Very thick and it's quite a tight fit inside the tube. When someone asked me earlier if I put in the cord after heating the tube, all I could do was laugh.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> Anyone know a good alternative to the primochill bending kit insert? Cause the one in the kit is hollow in the centre and makes the bends slightly flat.
> 
> Acrylic bending is a pain but it's fun lol


I had troubles with the Primochill bending cord not-so-much with flattening out in bends, but with it wanting to get stuck in the tube, and I haven't tried it but the Monsoon bending cord that came with the kit seems too short for a lot of the bends I've been doing. I've been using McMaster-Carr's O-ring bending cord (part # 9679K27 : 9.0mm Nominal Width, .354" Actual Width - it comes in other sizes too) suggested by IT Diva earlier on this topic for Primochill's 1/2" OD tubing and it works a treat. ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nice little find here;
> 
> I'm cross posting this from the WC thread, as it may be helpful here in particular
> 
> For you guys using 1/2" X 3/8" imperial tubing, whether Primochill or from McMaster etc. . . .
> 
> I found the near perfect insert cord for bending . . .
> 
> It doesn't seem as tight and "iffy" as the Primochill insert.
> 
> Its Buna N rubber, not silicone, so it isn't as burn proof, but it works fine at bending temps if you don't try to melt the tube.
> 
> It's 8.5mm metric O-ring cord stock, which is 0.354" dia. . . . Just enough under 3/8" to push in easily and get it out again.
> 
> McMaster Carr part number: 9679K27 It comes in various lengths from 3' to 100'. . . . . $1.38 per foot,
> 
> I got a 10' length to experiment with.
> 
> Couple pics below of a quick small radius U-bend, and the cord pushed thru a short scrap and also all the way thru a full 6' length.
> 
> I found this cord to swell a bit more with heat, so I needed to let the bend get cold and the cord to cool as well before pulling it out easily.
> 
> Would be nice if some of you tried it and gave feedback.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> For such simple bends, this kind of wrinkling shouldn't be happening. Whenever I take my time to heat the acrylic, this occurs. Or, when I heat the acrylic evenly and I hurry up to bend it, this occurs. I'm cursed either way.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1972.jpg.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> But a good coat of liquid dish soap and water typically does the trick. Plus the boiling of the water inside the tube is a good indicator that the acrylic is almost ready to be bent.


Water has a massive heat capacity and consumes a large amount of energy when it boils. Strange as this might sound, it's possible that the water on the inside of your tube while heating is causing an uneven distribution of temperature within the acrylic. So it's hot enough to bend on the outside of the tube, but not quite hot enough on the inside. Possibly this is why you are getting the wrinkles.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Water has a massive heat capacity and consumes a large amount of energy when it boils. Strange as this might sound, it's possible that the water on the inside of your tube while heating is causing an uneven distribution of temperature within the acrylic. So it's hot enough to bend on the outside of the tube, but not quite hot enough on the inside. Possibly this is why you are getting the wrinkles.


Interesting thoughts but I have used water + handsoap to lube my bending cord and my bends came out just fine. I used my heatgun at 300°C.

I have to say I can't relate with all the people having difficulties bending. I did my bends freehand and had it was pretty easy for me. Perhaps those mandrels are having the opposite effect and making it more difficult than easy.

I'll get some pics up soonish.


----------



## IT Diva

For you guys using E22 or other 10mm tubing, McMaster is still your best friend.

Solid silicon cord . . . . super easy to work with, noticably better than the buna-N

Get the 3/8" size in medium, or for tighter bends the medium soft durometer.

I've been using this since the first E22 tubing, and it's top tier.

Darlene

From the catalog:

FDA-Compliant Silicone Rubber

Color: See below
Temperature Range: See below
Tensile Strength: See below
Use indoors and outdoors

Made from FDA-compliant materials, this silicone rubber is safe for food contact and maintains its flexibility over a wide temperature range.

Cord-Smooth Finish

Color: Orange-red
Temperature Range: -65° to +400° F
Tensile Strength: 650 psi

Length tolerance is ±1/4". Durometer tolerance is ±5.

To Order: Please specify durometer hardness: 40A (medium soft), 50A (medium), 60A (medium hard), or 70A (hard).

36" Long

Dia. Dia.
Tolerance Each

1/8" ±0.016" 9808K21 $6.43
1/4" ±0.027" 9808K22 6.85
3/8" ±0.027" 9808K23 8.40
1/2" ±0.031" 9808K24 9.32
3/4" ±0.039" 9808K25 13.31
1" ±0.051" 9808K26 18.13


----------



## GaMbi2004

Im about to pull the tricker on my acrylic project:


Pic of my setup:


Questions:
1: Should I just got for some cheaper EK HD fittings / tube?
2: Is the "silver base" all silver? as in, do I screw the silver fitting in copper blocks / brass radiators aka direct contact between copper/brass and silver? thats not good is it?
3: theme is red/black with red coolant.. what do you think would look the best? red fittings for red coolant seams boring.. and chain gun (I think they will be too big?) vs the "normal" ones..
4: 1/2 5/8 or 3/8 1/2 acrylic.. I bet the smaller 3/8 1/2 will look better, but is there a difference between difficulty of bending one vs the other?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Im about to pull the tricker on my acrylic project:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pic of my setup:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Questions:
> 1: Should I just got for some cheaper EK HD fittings / tube?
> 2: Is the "silver base" all silver? as in, do I screw the silver fitting in copper blocks / brass radiators aka direct contact between copper/brass and silver? thats not good is it?
> 3: theme is red/black with red coolant.. what do you think would look the best? red fittings for red coolant seams boring.. and chain gun (I think they will be too big?) vs the "normal" ones..
> 4: 1/2 5/8 or 3/8 1/2 acrylic.. I bet the smaller 3/8 1/2 will look better, but is there a difference between difficulty of bending one vs the other?


#1. That's up to you, but the EK fittings don't use imperial tubing, they use metric tubing in either 12mmOD or 16mmOD depending on the fittings you get.

#2. The base of the fittings is nickel plated brass that has a SILVER COLOR, but, it is not actual silver, so no issues there.

#3. Really up to you, you will get tons of answers to this type of question, but ultimately it's your system, what do YOU think will look best to YOU??

#4. I have not used the 5/8" OD tubing, so I can't honestly say which bends easier, but since the tubing wall thickness is the same on them (1/16" wall thickness) I would think they would bend about the same. And, if I had had the chance to use the larger tubing size, I would have still gone with the 1/2" as there are more fittings available than just the monsoon ones, which I personally don't care for in the "rigid" tubing category.

Edit: Added spoilers, sorry B-


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> #1. That's up to you, but the EK fittings don't use imperial tubing, they use metric tubing in either 12mmOD or 16mmOD depending on the fittings you get.
> 
> #2. The base of the fittings is nickel plated brass that has a SILVER COLOR, but, it is not actual silver, so no issues there.
> 
> #3. Really up to you, you will get tons of answers to this type of question, but ultimately it's your system, what do YOU think will look best to YOU??
> 
> #4. I have not used the 5/8" OD tubing, so I can't honestly say which bends easier, but since the tubing wall thickness is the same on them (1/16" wall thickness) I would think they would bend about the same. And, if I had had the chance to use the larger tubing size, I would have still gone with the 1/2" as there are more fittings available than just the monsoon ones, which I personally don't care for in the "rigid" tubing category.
> 
> Edit: Added spoilers, sorry B-


Cheers







got good answers on the most important questions.. the less important onces (color and shape) is indeed a point of view problem.. just wanted other opinions








I am comparing the size vs my 1/2 3/4 soft tube setup.. so the 1/2 5/8 will be a bit smaller, but not by much.. thinking that 3/8 1/2 would look better in a small case like mine.
Cheaper too..


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got good answers on the most important questions.. the less important onces (color and shape) is indeed a point of view problem.. just wanted other opinions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am comparing the size vs my 1/2 3/4 soft tube setup.. so the 1/2 5/8 will be a bit smaller, but not by much.. *thinking that 3/8 1/2 would look better in a small case like mine. Cheaper too..*


I agree with you on that, but that is also kind of subjective, I have used the 1/2"OD rigid in a CL STH10, and it looks good still to me, and that's a huge case. But I've never like 1/2x3/4 flexible tubing, looks to automotive to me, lol.
I've always used the 7/16x5/8" flexible tubing myself, but have switched to rigid now.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got good answers on the most important questions.. the less important onces (color and shape) is indeed a point of view problem.. just wanted other opinions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am comparing the size vs my 1/2 3/4 soft tube setup.. so the 1/2 5/8 will be a bit smaller, but not by much.. *thinking that 3/8 1/2 would look better in a small case like mine. Cheaper too..*
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with you on that, but that is also kind of subjective, I have used the 1/2"OD rigid in a CL STH10, and it looks good still to me, and that's a huge case. But I've never like 1/2x3/4 flexible tubing, looks to automotive to me, lol.
> I've always used the 7/16x5/8" flexible tubing myself, but have switched to rigid now.
Click to expand...

I used to be a 16mm/10mm tube guy...the bigger sausage tubing looks like crap to me. It dwarfs the fittings.


----------



## fast_fate

Hands up who has a box of flexible tubing that they are unlikely to ever use again








and a tray of compression fittings to go with it








I used 1/2 x 3/4 in the early days but switched to 3/8 x 5/8 which I liked more for the thicker tube wall for slightly tighter bends.


----------



## luciddreamer124

I do use the E22 bending cord found on PPCs. Still can't seem to get rid of the clouding.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> I do use the E22 bending cord found on PPCs. Still can't seem to get rid of the clouding.


The below bending cord is what has been recomended
Quote:


> For you guys using E22 or other 10mm tubing, McMaster is still your best friend.
> 
> Solid silicon cord . . . . super easy to work with, noticably better than the buna-N
> 
> Get the 3/8" size in medium, or for tighter bends the medium soft durometer.
> 
> I've been using this since the first E22 tubing, and it's top tier.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> From the catalog:
> 
> FDA-Compliant Silicone Rubber
> 
> Color: See below
> Temperature Range: See below
> Tensile Strength: See below
> Use indoors and outdoors
> 
> Made from FDA-compliant materials, this silicone rubber is safe for food contact and maintains its flexibility over a wide temperature range.
> 
> Cord-Smooth Finish
> 
> Color: Orange-red
> Temperature Range: -65° to +400° F
> Tensile Strength: 650 psi
> 
> Length tolerance is ±1/4". Durometer tolerance is ±5.
> 
> To Order: Please specify durometer hardness: 40A (medium soft), 50A (medium), 60A (medium hard), or 70A (hard).
> 
> 36" Long
> 
> Dia. Dia.
> Tolerance Each
> 
> 1/8" ±0.016" 9808K21 $6.43
> 1/4" ±0.027" 9808K22 6.85
> 3/8" ±0.027" 9808K23 8.40
> 1/2" ±0.031" 9808K24 9.32
> 3/4" ±0.039" 9808K25 13.31
> 1" ±0.051" 9808K26 18.13


----------



## lowfat

I cut my bending cord in half today by accident.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I cut my bending cord in half today by accident.


I've cut acrylic with the cord still inside on a dozen occasions with no scoring. I've found that it's usually best to keep rotating the acrylic as you're cutting it in most cases. With complicated bends, I do the same technique but score the acrylic enough that I can snap the piece off without cracking or splitting it. From there, I gently separate each acrylic piece, allowing the cord to just slide out.


----------



## gponcho

Hi,

I purchased the Monsoon Bending Kit and want to practice bending with acrylic tubing however I would like to purchase some cheap tubing for practice. Does anyone know of a place I can purchase some no name or cheap acrylic tubing. Once I get the proper feel of bending and cutting I will get the good stuff for my rig. No point buying Primochill or Monsoon Rigid Acrylic Tubing until I can do proper bends.

I live in Canada and buying from places like PCS or FrozenCPU is fine however I get hit with duties and the Bond charges are ridiculous. Does anyone know where we can buy locally? (i.e. home depot or Rona... etc )

Thanks for any input


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I purchased the Monsoon Bending Kit and want to practice bending with acrylic tubing however I would like to purchase some cheap tubing for practice. Does anyone know of a place I can purchase some no name or cheap acrylic tubing. Once I get the proper feel of bending and cutting I will get the good stuff for my rig. No point buying Primochill or Monsoon Rigid Acrylic Tubing until I can do proper bends.
> 
> I live in Canada and buying from places like PCS or FrozenCPU is fine however I get hit with duties and the Bond charges are ridiculous. Does anyone know where we can buy locally? (i.e. home depot or Rona... etc )
> 
> Thanks for any input


https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/hard-tubes/

OR this place lists that it manufactures &/or sells cast acrylic tube, and I think they might be near you, but they list imperial and metric sizing so I'm not sure which fittings will work with it. Not sure of their pricing either, but might be worth giving them a visit ...

http://plastic-fabrication-distribution.plastechonline.com/viewitems/e-acrylite-gp-plexiglas-optix-polycast-and-lucit-2/clear-cast-acrylic-tube?


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> https://www.dazmode.com/store/category/hard-tubes/
> 
> OR this place lists that it manufactures &/or sells cast acrylic tube, and I think they might be near you, but they list imperial and metric sizing so I'm not sure which fittings will work with it. Not sure of their pricing either, but might be worth giving them a visit ...
> 
> http://plastic-fabrication-distribution.plastechonline.com/viewitems/e-acrylite-gp-plexiglas-optix-polycast-and-lucit-2/clear-cast-acrylic-tube?


Many thanks


----------



## lowfat

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-51-2.jpg.html

Since I cut my Monsoon bending cable in half I started to use my Primochill one. The ones that do not have a solid core. I am finding it to be much more forgiving than the Monsoon one. The bends are ever so slightly perfect but they still look good. I had to re do the 90 degree bend like 10 times in order to get the length and degree perfect but somehow the tube still looks ok. Still will re do it but at least I copy its dimensions.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-51-2.jpg.html


----------



## ozzy1925

i compared primochill ridig ghost fitting vs. bp c47 to give some idea



primochill is very huge and looks like its impossible to fit without an adapter in to the front ports of the d5 bp top kit


----------



## Anfs

Hi all this is a great thread helped me so much with my acrylic tube bending.
I have to tell you what a pain in the **** this was.
I went through so much tubing trying to get everything perfect only to have it kink or bend in the wrong spot at the final bend.
It takes a lot of patience something I don't have a lot off.
Here are a few pics I haven't totally finished as I still have to make a small tube for the drain up front and I must remove all tubing a wash in distilled water before filling to remove all acrylic residue.



This front one caused me the most grief I did a practice run out of black tube it was perfect came to do the same in clear tube took me 3 goes at it.



Thanks all


----------



## lowfat

First draft.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Wow I'm seriously reconsidering using acrylic tubing. How long did those bends take you?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> How long did those bends take you?


About 8 hours and 40 hours of practice.









I will need to redo a few of the runs but I ran out of tubing.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> First draft.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Love the plumbing... nice lines. Great job!


----------



## gponcho

Okay, getting all my stuff together for my first Acrylic build. I have ordered some low cost Acrylic tubing for practice prior to my actual build and got my bending kit ready to go. My question now is regarding the Rigid tube fittings:

I know the colour I want (White) but which should I get:

1. PrimoChill Rigid Ghost fittings

2. Monsoon Hardline fittings

3. Bitspower Acrylic fittings

Need help regarding reliability and looks. planning to use 3/8 x 1/2 tubing

Thanks in advance


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Okay, getting all my stuff together for my first Acrylic build. I have ordered some low cost Acrylic tubing for practice prior to my actual build and got my bending kit ready to go. My question now is regarding the Rigid tube fittings:
> 
> I know the colour I want (White) but which should I get:
> 
> 1. PrimoChill Rigid Ghost fittings
> 2. Monsoon Hardline fittings
> 3. Bitspower Acrylic fittings
> 
> Need help regarding reliability and looks. planning to use 3/8 x 1/2 tubing
> 
> Thanks in advance


looks are up to you

reliability is the same!!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i compared primochill ridig ghost fitting vs. bp c47 to give some idea
> 
> 
> 
> primochill is very huge and looks like its impossible to fit without an adapter in to the front ports of the d5 bp top kit


Yeah I can't find anyone who might have used it on a Koolance 380 block so I can see if they will fit.


----------



## sinnedone

Question, Are all acrylic fittings simply push fittings or are there any that actually clamp onto the tube?


----------



## gdubc

There are a couple different "compression" types out there, but the monsoons would be the most secure if you don't mind dealing with the lock ring installation.


----------



## kingchris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Okay, getting all my stuff together for my first Acrylic build. I have ordered some low cost Acrylic tubing for practice prior to my actual build and got my bending kit ready to go. My question now is regarding the Rigid tube fittings:
> 
> I know the colour I want (White) but which should I get:
> 
> 1. PrimoChill Rigid Ghost fittings
> 2. Monsoon Hardline fittings
> 3. Bitspower Acrylic fittings
> 
> Need help regarding reliability and looks. planning to use 3/8 x 1/2 tubing
> 
> Thanks in advance




all work well for me!


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Okay, getting all my stuff together for my first Acrylic build. I have ordered some low cost Acrylic tubing for practice prior to my actual build and got my bending kit ready to go. My question now is regarding the Rigid tube fittings:
> 
> I know the colour I want (White) but which should I get:
> 
> 1. PrimoChill Rigid Ghost fittings
> 2. Monsoon Hardline fittings
> 3. Bitspower Acrylic fittings
> 
> Need help regarding reliability and looks. planning to use 3/8 x 1/2 tubing
> 
> Thanks in advance


Bitspower or Monsoon. I'm using Bitspower as the Monsoon fitting weren't available when I started my project, and they are magnificent. Monsoon will have the most reliable fittings, though there is some more leg work to them.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Okay, getting all my stuff together for my first Acrylic build. I have ordered some low cost Acrylic tubing for practice prior to my actual build and got my bending kit ready to go. My question now is regarding the Rigid tube fittings:
> 
> I know the colour I want (White) but which should I get:
> 
> 1. PrimoChill Rigid Ghost fittings
> 2. Monsoon Hardline fittings
> 3. Bitspower Acrylic fittings
> 
> Need help regarding reliability and looks. planning to use 3/8 x 1/2 tubing
> 
> Thanks in advance


Since you're going to use 1/2" OD tube, and want white, you'll have a choice of Primochill or Monsoon.

1/2" OD tube is ~12.7mm in metric measure.

You *Can Not* use the Bitspower acrylic tube fittings, either series, with 1/2" tubing. They are for 12mm OD tubing only.

That leaves you with a choice between the new Monsoons, and the easy to use Primochill rigid ghost or revolver series compression fittings.

If you don't need them right away, the Monsoon "economy" fittings will be out soon, so they may well be worth waiting a few more weeks on, since that will be another option for imperial, (American) sized tubing.

Darlene


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> 2: Im gonna be adding mayhems dye drops to the distilled + silver coil and read that one of the advantages of acrylic is "no plasticizing", do I risk plasticizing since I will still have soft tubes in the loop?
> XSPC High Flex - 3/4'' / 1/2''


Pick one that is plasticizer free and read the fine print. Many brands that are advertised as "Plasticizer free" are not actually free of plasticizers ..... just free of a certain type of plasticizer. For example:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16791/ex-tub-1365/Tygon_E-1000_38_ID_12_OD_-_Plasticizer_Free_Flexible_Tubing_ADK00027.html?tl=g30c457s1723

Read the description
Quote:


> Tygon E-1000 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) - *Plasticizer Free Flexible Tubin*g (ADK00027)


Now read the fine print
Quote:


> Soft and flexible, new Tygon® E-1000 Non-DEHP Laboratory Tubing delivers the same superior performance you have come to expect from Tygon® tubing but *now in a formulation that contains non-DEHP [Bis (2-ethylhexyl) phthalate] plasticizers*.


So it has plasticizes but not DEHP plasticizers.

Keep in mind tho that plasticizer is what makes tubes "bendy"..... Another stat to look for is water absorption.....the lower the number, the greater the resistance to staining. Typon 2475 is 0.01 for example compared to 0.29 for the E-1000


----------



## GaMbi2004

@JackNaylorPE Thanks








I think I do not understand what plasticizing is.. does it only make the tube look bad? or does it release particles into the water?
My soft tubes are black and not transparent.. so I dont care if it looks bad on the inside







as long as it doesn't clog up my system.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I do not understand what plasticizing is.. does it only make the tube look bad? or does it release particles into the water?
> My soft tubes are black and not transparent.. so I dont care if it looks bad on the inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as long as it doesn't clog up my system.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1199158/plasticizer-problems-discussion-gallery/0_50


----------



## Slinky PC

How to banding acrylic tube. ~ Slinky Supercomuter


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to banding acrylic tube. ~ Slinky Supercomuter


Wow, I have not seen someone use the koolance ram coolers in forever. I hope you have better luck with them than the ones I had.

Neat looking build also!!!!!!


----------



## DaaQ

Sorry posted this in the Reg pipe bending thread last night thinking it was this one.
Quote:


> Regular ghost fittings are 24mm diameter. Or just a hair shy of that. I don't have a digital caliper.
> 
> Monsoon chain gun hardline 1/2" are 25mm OD
> Monsoon free center hardline 1/2 are 20mm OD
> Bitspower C47 are 18mm OD
> Primochill revolver are 24mm OD as well.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to banding acrylic tube. ~ Slinky Supercomuter
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, I have not seen someone use the koolance ram coolers in forever. I hope you have better luck with them than the ones I had.
> 
> Neat looking build also!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Kollance Ram-33 is the most efficient liquid cooled memory product, get liquid directly along both sides of every module.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Kollance Ram-33 is the most efficient liquid cooled memory product, get liquid directly along both sides of every module.


I agree, if the ram modules actually hold the coolant in, 3 of the 4 I had leaked like colanders out of the box. Hence the reason I said I hope they work out for you.

Edit: unless they changed the Ram-33's, those side plates don't actually have water channels in them. Only the spine of the block does.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to banding acrylic tube. ~ Slinky Supercomuter
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, I have not seen someone use the koolance ram coolers in forever. I hope you have better luck with them than the ones I had.
> 
> Neat looking build also!!!!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Kollance Ram-33 is the most efficient liquid cooled memory product, get liquid directly along both sides of every module.
Click to expand...

Efficient but completely unnecessary...

Watercooling RAM is pointless.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Efficient but completely unnecessary...
> 
> Watercooling RAM is pointless.


This ^^^^^^^, obviously except for aesthetics!!!


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Efficient but completely unnecessary...
> 
> Watercooling RAM is pointless.
> 
> 
> 
> This ^^^^^^^, obviously except for aesthetics!!!
Click to expand...

Hey.. don't B NEGATIVE, let me open same lights for you!

Mai be pointless for your $$$ ram that cost les there the blocks but not for my ram $$$$








That's way ppl like you don't understand the definition of "silent pc"


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Hey.. don't B NEGATIVE, let me open same lights for you!
> 
> Mai be pointless for your $$$ ram that cost les there the blocks but not for my ram $$$$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's way ppl like you don't understand the definition of "silent pc"


Actually, liquid cooling your ram is pointless in the sense that it's not going to help you with the ram overclocking or anything else. Nor will it help your PC run silent. Cooling ddr3 ram today is strictly for looks, as it won't benefit the ram since it already runs cold to begin with.

We weren't saying anything negative about your system. So try not to take it the wrong way. If you want to liquid cool your ram so it looks better, great. But just remember, that's all it does! Even if it's a ddr3-3000 kit, it's still not going to make the ram "better" at anything besides looks.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Actually, liquid cooling your ram is pointless in the sense that it's not going to help you with the ram overclocking or anything else. Nor will it help your PC run silent. Cooling ddr3 ram today is strictly for looks, as it won't benefit the ram since it already runs cold to begin with.
> 
> We weren't saying anything negative about your system. So try not to take it the wrong way. If you want to liquid cool your ram so it looks better, great. But just remember, that's all it does! Even if it's a ddr3-3000 kit, it's still not going to make the ram "better" at anything besides looks.


This.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Efficient but completely unnecessary...
> 
> Watercooling RAM is pointless.
> 
> 
> 
> This ^^^^^^^, obviously except for aesthetics!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hey.. don't B NEGATIVE, let me open same lights for you!
> 
> Mai be pointless for your $$$ ram that cost les there the blocks but not for my ram $$$$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's way ppl like you don't understand the definition of "silent pc"
Click to expand...

What are you talking about?

We are talking about ram cost?My Dominator GT's are not cheap and are what most watercooling kits are designed for. Why did you even bring that into it? Ram cost has zero influence to cooling or performance.....

So a set of DIMMs just sitting there are somehow destroying the Fung Shui of silence in my rig?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Hey.. don't B NEGATIVE, let me open same lights for you!
> 
> Mai be pointless for your $$$ ram that cost les there the blocks but not for my ram $$$$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's way ppl like you don't understand the definition of "silent pc"
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, liquid cooling your ram is pointless in the sense that it's not going to help you with the ram overclocking or anything else. Nor will it help your PC run silent. Cooling ddr3 ram today is strictly for looks, as it won't benefit the ram since it already runs cold to begin with.
> 
> We weren't saying anything negative about your system. So try not to take it the wrong way. If you want to liquid cool your ram so it looks better, great. But just remember, that's all it does! Even if it's a ddr3-3000 kit, it's still not going to make the ram "better" at anything besides looks.
Click to expand...

You can talk negative not a problem







The Temp on my rig is 85F and performing at 5.2GHz 24/7 as I making almost on real time videos (watch if you like de 144min. hd video Opening Ceremony ~ Sochi 2014 XXII Winter Olympics )
By using the ram at 1.8v daily you will need an extra cooling fans or your system will crash any 2 minutes. For completely silend pc I was forced to water-cooling my pumps and hdd, think about ram that generating a high hit on the system. I have 10 fans but you can not here them operating, more laude are the pumps but I am able to adjust the speed or take two of them off at any time.
Have a fun


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You can talk negative not a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Temp on my rig is 85F and performing at 5.2GHz 24/7 as I making almost on real time videos (watch if you like de 144min. hd video Opening Ceremony ~ Sochi 2014 XXII Winter Olympics )
> By using the ram at 1.8v daily you will need an extra cooling fans or your system will crash any 2 minutes. For completely silend pc I was forced to water-cooling my pumps and hdd, think about ram that generating a high hit on the system. I have 10 fans but you can not here them operating, more laude are the pumps but I am able to adjusted the speed.
> Have a fun


Lol, ok. If you say so.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You can talk negative not a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Temp on my rig is 85F and performing at 5.2GHz 24/7 as I making almost on real time videos (watch if you like de 144min. hd video Opening Ceremony ~ Sochi 2014 XXII Winter Olympics )
> By using the ram at 1.8v daily you will need an extra cooling fans or your system will crash any 2 minutes. For completely silend pc I was forced to water-cooling my pumps and hdd, think about ram that generating a high hit on the system. I have 10 fans but you can not here them operating, more laude are the pumps but I am able to adjust the speed or take two of them off at any time.
> Have a fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, ok. If you say so.
Click to expand...

I am not a tech-guy.. just an artist


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I am not a tech-guy.. just an artist


I wish you well as an artist.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> *I am not a tech-guy*.. just an artist


obviously lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You can talk negative not a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Temp on my rig is 85F and performing at 5.2GHz 24/7 as I making almost on real time videos (watch if you like de 144min. hd video Opening Ceremony ~ Sochi 2014 XXII Winter Olympics )
> By using the ram at 1.8v daily you will need an extra cooling fans or your system will crash any 2 minutes. For completely silend pc I was forced to water-cooling my pumps and hdd, think about ram that generating a high hit on the system. I have 10 fans but you can not here them operating, more laude are the pumps but I am able to adjust the speed or take two of them off at any time.
> Have a fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, ok. If you say so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am not a tech-guy.. just an artist
Click to expand...

I fail to see the 'artistry'.....

It looks tacky and a bit Christmas cracker but I dont have to look at it everyday neh?

1.8v RAM....even more pointless than the water blocks.........


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I am not a tech-guy.. *just an artist*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> obviously lol
Click to expand...

Nice to meet you failwheeldrive.. let me know more about you


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Very good but can it do this?


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> I am not a tech-guy.. just an artist
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish you well as an artist.
Click to expand...

Thx Bro.
p.s. extreme cooler vs. watercooler conversation


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> another computer expert


Nah.. no expert. Of course not claiming to be either







just common sense, experience, and always learning


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

It looks like someone have missed the humbleness classes


----------



## iScream1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> You can talk negative not a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Temp on my rig is 85F and performing at 5.2GHz 24/7 as I making almost on real time videos (watch if you like de 144min. hd video Opening Ceremony ~ Sochi 2014 XXII Winter Olympics )
> By using the ram at 1.8v daily you will need an extra cooling fans or your system will crash any 2 minutes. For completely silend pc I was forced to water-cooling my pumps and hdd, think about ram that generating a high hit on the system. I have 10 fans but you can not here them operating, more laude are the pumps but I am able to adjust the speed or take two of them off at any time.
> Have a fun


So, I'm pretty new to water cooling. What were you using to measure the temp of your RAM and what temps were you seeing when you decided to liquid cool?


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> your eBay auctions of that carnival attraction suggest otherwise lol. *Really need to work on that English - even as an artist...*


I really dislike that comment. English probably isn't his first language. It's doubtful your proficiency in another language is as high as his is in English.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Hey.. don't B NEGATIVE, let me open same lights for you!
> 
> Mai be pointless for your $$$ ram that cost les there the blocks but not for my ram $$$$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's way ppl like you don't understand the definition of "silent pc"


your rig looks cool
the logos and skull look terrible
your grasp of the "tech stuff" is sketchy at best
please stop antagonizing others.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> I really dislike that comment. English probably isn't his first language. It's doubtful your proficiency in another language is as high as his is in English.
> your rig looks cool
> the logos and skull look terrible
> your grasp of the "tech stuff" is sketchy at best
> please stop antagonizing others.


I would usually agree with you on the "English" comment, but the guy says he's from Florida, he has decided to live in an English speaking country, so I don't think it's wrong to recommend that he work on his English skills. Just my









It's kinda funny, I looked at his post history, and almost everything he's said has met with heavy opposition from the forum members, and when he's called on it, or someone makes even a "recommendation" he has replied negatively to it. And now he has "edited" out his posts, of course, the "quotes" of his post still exist. Go have a look, it's kinda funny really.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> I really dislike that comment. English probably isn't his first language. It's doubtful your proficiency in another language is as high as his is in English.
> please stop antagonizing others.


Sorry if you find yourself offended - matter of being able to communicate and understand another. Don't think ESL is the issue - just lack of reading comprehension and spelling skills actually. Didn't find anything antagonistic in that post - truth hurts sometimes and if the shoe fits... oh well

Have a drnk/smoke/whatever...breathe... chill have a good night









PS if you find antagonizing an issue... have you looked at Slinky's comments and challenges to others with no obvious tech backing? that is far more antagonistic than calling out someone's shady claims


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> your eBay auctions of that carnival attraction suggest otherwise lol. *Really need to work on that English - even as an artist...*
> 
> 
> 
> I really dislike that comment. English probably isn't his first language. It's doubtful your proficiency in another language is as high as his is in English.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> Hey.. don't B NEGATIVE, let me open same lights for you!
> 
> Mai be pointless for your $$$ ram that cost les there the blocks but not for my ram $$$$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's way ppl like you don't understand the definition of "silent pc"
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> your rig looks cool
> the logos and skull look terrible
> your grasp of the "tech stuff" is sketchy at best
> please stop antagonizing others.
Click to expand...

"Buzz247" the only think you can teach me is English. I become an American not because my English but because who I am. If you like will can communicate in Romanian, Russia, Italian, Spanish or little Japanese







(blocked)


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> I really dislike that comment. English probably isn't his first language. It's doubtful your proficiency in another language is as high as his is in English.
> please stop antagonizing others.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if you find yourself offended - matter of being able to communicate and understand another. Don't think ESL is the issue - just lack of reading comprehension and spelling skills actually. Didn't find anything antagonistic in that post - truth hurts sometimes and if the shoe fits... oh well
> 
> Have a drnk/smoke/whatever...breathe... chill have a good night
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS if you find antagonizing an issue... have you looked at Slinky's comments and challenges to others with no obvious tech backing? that is far more antagonistic than calling out someone's shady claims
Click to expand...

"Buzz247" the only think you can teach me is English. I become an American not because my English but because who I am. If you like will can communicate in Romanian, Russia, Italian, Spanish or little Japanese







(blocked)


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> "Buzz247" the only think you can teach me is English. I become an American not because my English but because who I am. If you like will can communicate in Romanian, Russia, Italian, Spanish or little Japanese
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (blocked)


Italian and bit of Japanese works for me







everyone has something to learn lol


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinky PC*
> 
> BlaBlaBlocked


And the same sir. Have a good day/evening/night.


----------



## USFORCES

I already started a thread but waiting to order









I'm bending 1/2 OD what mandrel kit should I get 3/8-1/2 blue or 1/2-5/8 red?


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USFORCES*
> 
> I already started a thread but waiting to order
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm bending 1/2 OD what mandrel kit should I get 3/8-1/2 blue or 1/2-5/8 red?


3/8 ID 1/2OD blue


----------



## USFORCES

Thank you Rep +


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Since you're going to use 1/2" OD tube, and want white, you'll have a choice of Primochill or Monsoon.
> 
> 1/2" OD tube is ~12.7mm in metric measure.
> 
> You *Can Not* use the Bitspower acrylic tube fittings, either series, with 1/2" tubing. They are for 12mm OD tubing only.
> 
> That leaves you with a choice between the new Monsoons, and the easy to use Primochill rigid ghost or revolver series compression fittings.
> 
> If you don't need them right away, the Monsoon "economy" fittings will be out soon, so they may well be worth waiting a few more weeks on, since that will be another option for imperial, (American) sized tubing.
> 
> Darlene


What do the new 'economy" fittings look like and are they as good as the current Monsoons?

Thanks


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Since you're going to use 1/2" OD tube, and want white, you'll have a choice of Primochill or Monsoon.
> 
> 1/2" OD tube is ~12.7mm in metric measure.
> 
> You *Can Not* use the Bitspower acrylic tube fittings, either series, with 1/2" tubing. They are for 12mm OD tubing only.
> 
> That leaves you with a choice between the new Monsoons, and the easy to use Primochill rigid ghost or revolver series compression fittings.
> 
> If you don't need them right away, the Monsoon "economy" fittings will be out soon, so they may well be worth waiting a few more weeks on, since that will be another option for imperial, (American) sized tubing.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> What do the new 'economy" fittings look like and are they as good as the current Monsoons?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

They aren't out yet, but we suspect that the ones in the black square, upper right in this pic are the new "economy" fittings.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> They aren't out yet, but we suspect that the ones in the black square, upper right in this pic are the new "economy" fittings.


Yay, Darlene found the photo I posted.


----------



## DaaQ

Those are the economy fittings in the black square. I would give another week or two you should start seeing them. They are coming, and Geno did confirm that the ones in the black box are the push fits.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> Those are the economy fittings in the black square. I would give another week or two you should start seeing them. They are coming, and Geno did confirm that the ones in the black box are the *push fits*.


Push fit or compression? I was under the impression they would be a compression type fitting for some reason..........

Argh, diva used the compressed photo, I posted a full res photo that I could zoom in on, now I gotta go search for it.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I bought this "tool" from WalMart today that might allow me to create some squiggle bends in some acrylic. It's been an idea that's floated through my head since I first learned of acrylic bending for builds, so I thought I'd give it a try... Besides, it's all in the name of science and bragging rights, so I won't take it too seriously if I fail miserably. However, if it turns out good then I'll post pictures. If not, then this'll be the only post you hear about it.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2003.jpg.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I bought this "tool" from WalMart today that might allow me to create some squiggle bends in some acrylic. It's been an idea that's floated through my head since I first learned of acrylic bending for builds, so I thought I'd give it a try... Besides, it's all in the name of science and bragging rights, so I won't take it too seriously if I fail miserably. However, if it turns out good then I'll post pictures. If not, then this'll be the only post you hear about it.
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2003.jpg.html


Even if it flops, let us know!! That's a neat idea and good improvisation on a form/tool!


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Push fit or compression? I was under the impression they would be a compression type fitting for some reason..........
> 
> Argh, diva used the compressed photo, I posted a full res photo that I could zoom in on, now I gotta go search for it.


I assumed from the looks of them and from the following quote on the hardline tube description from PPCs
Quote:


> Product Details:
> 
> Available in 8 colors and two sizes and manufactured from premium virgin PMMA for the look you want and the reliability you demand.
> 
> Acrylic Hardline from Monsoon allows you to route your tube runs exactly where you want them and eliminates all those unsightly and expensive adapters, tube coils, etc. for the cleanest, most economical loop installations.
> 
> Compatible with all three styles of Monsoon Premium Hardline fittings featuring Hard/Lock, and with *Monsoon economy push in style fittings.*
> 
> Available Sizes:
> 
> 3/8" x 1/2" (13 mm OD)
> 1/2" x 5/8" (16 mm OD)


Also I emailed Geno about them and I used the term push fit to describe them in my email and he did not correct me on that. Dunno if it means anything he could have just missed it, I'm not sure.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I cut my bending cord in half today by accident.


Good story behind that I'm sure









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> OR this place lists that it manufactures &/or sells cast acrylic tube, and I think they might be near you, but they list imperial and metric sizing so I'm not sure which fittings will work with it. Not sure of their pricing either, but might be worth giving them a visit ...
> 
> http://plastic-fabrication-distribution.plastechonline.com/viewitems/e-acrylite-gp-plexiglas-optix-polycast-and-lucit-2/clear-cast-acrylic-tube?


Those look like imperial sizes with metric equivalents....not actual metric standard tube sizes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Okay, getting all my stuff together for my first Acrylic build. I have ordered some low cost Acrylic tubing for practice prior to my actual build and got my bending kit ready to go. My question now is regarding the Rigid tube fittings:
> 
> I know the colour I want (White) but which should I get:
> 
> 1. PrimoChill Rigid Ghost fittings
> 2. Monsoon Hardline fittings
> 3. Bitspower Acrylic fittings
> 
> Need help regarding reliability and looks. planning to use 3/8 x 1/2 tubing
> 
> Thanks in advance


Bitspower fittings are 10-12mm not 3/8-1/2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> @JackNaylorPE Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I do not understand what plasticizing is.. does it only make the tube look bad? or does it release particles into the water?
> My soft tubes are black and not transparent.. so I dont care if it looks bad on the inside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as long as it doesn't clog up my system.


Ya got pointed to a great thread on plasticizer issues ..... in short .... chemicals leach out and form deposits in nooks and crannies and discolor tubing.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Order placed









My RMAed 680 got replaced with 780 for an extra 100 dollars, Should be here Tuesday..
New water block in the order with acrylics and other items should be here in a week or two.
Ended up with 3/8 1/2 tubing and monsoon hard lock chain guns.
Cant wait to get started ^_^

While I wait for the acrylics, I have plans of making something like this:

The measures are all made up, so would love some feedback on this.. 1/2'' is 12.7mm right? so 13mm should be fine I guess..
But what is a good radius? thought that 20mm would be fairly sharp bends without overdoing it.. any "rules" about this?

Feel free to follow my build log (in my sig) for progress.. but I will definitely post pics here too








Thanks, ^GaMbi.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I'm happy to report that I was successful in redoing those two "squiggle" pieces I had screwed up so badly a couple of weeks ago. I even added a new one and connected the southbridge to the GPU. In fact, I used the same botched piece to create it... All it took was a little patience and a lower heat setting to pull all of this off.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2012.jpg.html


----------



## DaaQ

Looks good man.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaaQ*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good man.


And to think, that was my very last stick of acrylic. Glad I don't have to order any more. Now I can sleep better, knowing that it's done right.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> [...] While I wait for the acrylics, I have plans of making something like this:
> 
> The measures are all made up, so would love some feedback on this.. 1/2'' is 12.7mm right? so 13mm should be fine I guess..
> But what is a good radius? thought that 20mm would be fairly sharp bends without overdoing it.. any "rules" about this?
> 
> Feel free to follow my build log (in my sig) for progress.. but I will definitely post pics here too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, ^GaMbi.


If it helps, the Monsoon one is 48mm across & 17mm thick. The inside curve is 13mm wide and 6.5mm deep. Their bending formers have rounded shoulders ~2mm thick on each side, instead of coming to points like in your sketchup.


----------



## Dankal

what should i use... primochill rigid fittings or bitspower c47?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dankal*
> 
> what should i use... primochill rigid fittings or bitspower c47?


Primochill rigid is my choice, since they are a compression fitting, they DO hold better than the BP ones. And don't put stickers all over your tubing.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dankal*
> 
> what should i use... primochill rigid fittings or bitspower c47?


use primochill (banding with EK kit) 
and bitspower C48 with sli links if need it


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dankal*
> 
> what should i use... primochill rigid fittings or bitspower c47?


I'm currently using both Bitspower C48's and C47's in my build. Post #2162 is how they look in my build right now. Look closely and you'll see both C47's and C48's all over the mobo.

They don't bulge out any further than the rotary adaptors I've screwed some of them too, they don't take away from the overall design of the build, and they certainly don't have that horrible Sea Dragon logo anywhere on them. If you want some subtle fittings for your build, then the C48's and C47's will do your rig justice. But if you're looking for a little more flash and bling, then go with the other brands.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If it helps, the Monsoon one is 48mm across & 17mm thick. The inside curve is 13mm wide and 6.5mm deep. Their bending formers have rounded shoulders ~2mm thick on each side, instead of coming to points like in your sketchup.


Thanks for that info







I will upgrade my diameter to 45-50mm..
I dont like the 17mm thickness.. When placed flat on a table, the bend would re raised 2mm off the table compared to the straights, witch would lay flat on the table and make "ugly" bends unless I was to lower it 2mm into the table or something like that.
I will give mine "roundedd shoulders" by having the curve depth at 6mm instead of 6.5(leaving a rounding of 0.5mm) and hopefully that will make the entire tube, bends and straights to lay down flat on the table.

But yea! Thanks for the Monsoon measurements!
+rep


----------



## Dankal

thanks, i chose to go with primochill.


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dankal*
> 
> thanks, i chose to go with primochill.


Don't forget to order 3+ times more that you think for save same shipping expenses















Have a fun


----------



## Dankal

i got this tube, hopefully it works because i accidentally ordered it.

UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, 6' Length, Clear


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm currently using both Bitspower C48's and C47's in my build. Post #2162 is how they look in my build right now. Look closely and you'll see both C47's and C48's all over the mobo.
> 
> They don't bulge out any further than the rotary adaptors I've screwed some of them too, they don't take away from the overall design of the build, and they certainly don't have that horrible Sea Dragon logo anywhere on them. If you want some subtle fittings for your build, then the C48's and C47's will do your rig justice. But if you're looking for a little more flash and bling, then go with the other brands.


That's why I also like the bitspower better. Lower profile that doesn't take away from the build. While the primochill ones actually do hold on to the tubing they are HUGE as ****. Aesthetically speaking I personally don't like the primochill ones for their size.







Shame though I would prefer something with bite.


----------



## Dankal

quick question... i ordered the uv resistant tubes.... but i am planning on running uv dye through the loop...... whats going to happen


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dankal*
> 
> quick question... i ordered the uv resistant tubes.... but i am planning on running uv dye through the loop...... whats going to happen


Your fine, the UV resistant tubing means that UV rays have less harmful affect on the tubing itself, since UV rays tend to make most plastics cloudy and brittle over time.

The UV rays still pass through the tubing to the fluid so the fluid will still have a UV effect.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dankal*
> 
> quick question... i ordered the uv resistant tubes.... but i am planning on running uv dye through the loop...... whats going to happen


UV resistant just means it can withstand decay from uv rays. You're fine.


----------



## Dankal

thank you


----------



## Dankal

so apparently when you live close to mcmaster carr.. they not only deliver your package 2 hours after you place an order but its also free... or at least im yet to be charged.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [...]
> 
> Monsoon have come to the game with a new mandrel set with everything you need with the basic technique shown above but with purpose built mandrels/formers and a new range of fittings with a novel locking technique.
> 
> The Monsoon hardline kit videos:
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_Heatgun_Kit.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_2.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_3.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4
> 
> *This OP will be updated with a pictorial of it in use when my kit arrives.*


Well ....... ?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Been reading a bit on this thread, we need some transparent aluminum!!

Anyway, it seems doable, but I am not sure I want this over more durable copper pipes as I plan on clear water anyway.


----------



## szeged

i think clear water looks great in acrylic as well, i was gonna do that in my rig but i had a bottle of mayhems red i had to get rid of.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Hey guys,

I'm water cooling for the first time and using acrylic tubing. I noticed the acrylic is a little bit flexible, about a mm or two. Will the primochill ghost fittings make a tight enough seal if I just add a little effort plugging them in?

Think I should add a pic once I get home.


----------



## Audiophile20

Has anyone tried the Monsoon fittings with the "Glue On" collar?

Please note I am coming from barbs/clips, my first WC rig with no leak and such







, to Acrylic. I have not seen any user experiences re: the glue on collar from Monsoon. I understand that this is new, but the logic of the implementation sounds best to me (again based on no experience). I understand from the video that this may provide the best holding power for the rigid tube as compared to other options.

I am planning on ordering the following combination of products - Monsoon tubing (1/2"OD 3/8"ID), Fittings (compression), measuring scales. I have workshop full of tools I can cut and prep the acrylic tubing with, no worries there.

My other option will be Primochill compressions with similar dimension tubes. I like the looks of Monsoon compression fittings a bit better than Primochill.

Any suggestions will be most welcome.

Also, Many Thanks to everyone for contributing to this thread. I have read through this thread from the beginning and am very grateful for all the info shared.

I would like to order the parts by the end of the week and start bending tubes next week.

This is a re-build with RIVE VI BE, LGA2011. I am moving from a Caselabs M10 to ST10. Got the case yesterday and will post a build log. This is going to be a regular build not anything exotic, as I have not upgraded to the video cards yet. It will be a pair of GTX580 in SLI; the cards will be upgraded later in the year.

Thanks!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Would you guys say that copper pipes are easier than acrylic pipes? I'm still between the two. But I suppose acrylic is more about the clear water eye candy. I do like those nickle plated copper pipes though, a different kind of eye candy. Are the fittings the same?


----------



## Krusher33

Costs of copper vs acrylic was the deciding factor for me.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Costs of copper vs acrylic was the deciding factor for me.


Perhaps copper is more at first, but I think I'm more worried about wasting acrylic pipes in the bending process and the micro stress fractures that might happen. Sure you can bake them out but it seems like an addition concern. And I'm such a perfectionist I could see me wasting loads of acrylic pipes. About the only advantage I can see for acrylic pipes is the fact that they are clear. Well clear until you accidentally scratch it. Which is cool, but I could install quite a few glass reservoirs for water viewing eye candy. Not sure, but I think I am going with copper instead. Lots of reading and planning between now and water cooling to change my mind though. I actually have this idea with copper pipes to paint tribal like patterns on it with paint, nickle plated underneath for bling.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Perhaps copper is more at first, but I think I'm more worried about wasting acrylic pipes in the bending process and the micro stress fractures that might happen. Sure you can bake them out but it seems like an addition concern. And I'm such a perfectionist I could see me wasting loads of acrylic pipes. About the only advantage I can see for acrylic pipes is the fact that they are clear. Well clear until you accidentally scratch it. Which is cool, but I could install quite a few glass reservoirs for water viewing eye candy. Not sure, but I think I am going with copper instead. Lots of reading and planning between now and water cooling to change my mind though. I actually have this idea with copper pipes to paint tribal like patterns on it with paint, nickle plated underneath for bling.


Same goes for copper also though, with regards to wasted pipe. You screw up a measurement and you screw up a bend it's the same wasted tube. At least wasted acrylic is cheap comparatively


----------



## OneFast3

Ok saw a video on using the PETG ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaxWOjGzFvQ) and it was stated that it is not good for use with UV. I posted and am thinking of using polycarbonate instead which is made from UV approved materials. Bill says he added it to the list for experimentation.









Has anyone tried the polycarbonate yet (looking at http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=35299&catid=704) ?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Same goes for copper also though, with regards to wasted pipe. You screw up a measurement and you screw up a bend it's the same wasted tube. At least wasted acrylic is cheap comparatively


Hard to say anything as I never tried it. Not sure what I want to do. Perhaps I'll try both.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Same goes for copper also though, with regards to wasted pipe. You screw up a measurement and you screw up a bend it's the same wasted tube. At least wasted acrylic is cheap comparatively


My thoughts too. Sure, copper is more of a permanent fixture I suppose, but acrylic can be acquired cheaply and is easier to bend. You screw up a length in a copper bend, and you've screwed yourself. I'd much rather take my chances with acrylic.


----------



## Krusher33

That or changing out hardwares, gotta replace copper or acrylic.


----------



## erayser

Acrylic tube builds looked to sexy for me not to try... LOL... When I decided to go acrylic, I knew going into it... that it would not be as forgiving as soft tubing... so I sat and planned out my loop carefully. I tried to figured out what elbows/adapters would help me in reducing complex bends... and limit waste. I felt fortunate that I was able to complete my acrylic loop with 10 feet of acrylic tubing... without buying additional tubing.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> Acrylic tube builds looked to sexy for me not to try... LOL... When I decided to go acrylic, I knew going into it... that it would not be as forgiving as soft tubing... so I sat and planned out my loop carefully. I tried to figured out what elbows/adapters would help me in reducing complex bends... and limit waste. I felt fortunate that I was able to complete my acrylic loop with 10 feet of acrylic tubing... without buying additional tubing.


That wasn't the case with my build, even if I did map out my loop. There were too many variables that I thought I had the answer to, but failed miserably.


----------



## erayser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That wasn't the case with my build, even if I did map out my loop. There were too many variables that I thought I had the answer to, but failed miserably.


Your acrylic loop is different than mine. I planned out my loop to use smaller lengths from point A to point B. Your loop has more art to it... so I would expect more acrylic used... and more redo's. I like what you have done so far...


----------



## szeged

anyone try the 10/12mm acrylic tube from mcmaster-carr? i need to get another 10 feet or so but the e22 is stupid expensive.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> anyone try the 10/12mm acrylic tube from mcmaster-carr? i need to get another 10 feet or so but the e22 is stupid expensive.


I've not seen 10/12 at McMaster, only 3/8-1/2.
But I have used the 3/8-1-2", and it worked just as well as the Primochill tubing, but only available in clear!


----------



## szeged

doh, yeah for some reason i thought i remembered someone saying they had 10/12 but now that i think about it, it was just 1/2" they had.


----------



## avielcs

Hi all
Doe's anyone has an idea when the monsoon bending kit will be in stock?
Overclockers.uk don ship to israel where i live so looking for other options.
Will it work with 10/12 mm tubing?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Hi all
> Doe's anyone has an idea when the monsoon bending kit will be in stock?
> Overclockers.uk don ship to israel where i live so looking for other options.
> Will it work with 10/12 mm tubing?


The smaller set will work with 10/12mm. That's what I'm using.


----------



## lowfat

I think the bending kit would actually work better w/ metric tubing versus the slightly larger imperial stuff. But I am just guesstimating from my experience w/ the kit.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I think the bending kit would actually work better w/ metric tubing versus the slightly larger imperial stuff. But I am just guesstimating from my experience w/ the kit.


I've used it for both, and the only difference comes from the fact that 12/10 has thinner walls then 1/2 X 3/8.

The mandrels seem to work OK with either.

Darlene


----------



## ledzepp3

For the C47 fittings, if the tube is cut at a slight angle, will it leak if it doesn't perfectly seal with the first O-ring? Same goes for the 90 degree coupling fittings with the C47 double O-Rings.

If so, can anyone possibly display how to get the end of the tube to be even enough?

-Zepp


----------



## Slinky PC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> For the C47 fittings, if the tube is cut at a slight angle, will it leak if it doesn't perfectly seal with the first O-ring? Same goes for the 90 degree coupling fittings with the C47 double O-Rings.
> 
> If so, can anyone possibly display how to get the end of the tube to be even enough?
> 
> -Zepp


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> For the C47 fittings, if the tube is cut at a slight angle, will it leak if it doesn't perfectly seal with the first O-ring? Same goes for the 90 degree coupling fittings with the C47 double O-Rings.
> 
> If so, can anyone possibly display how to get the end of the tube to be even enough?
> 
> -Zepp


I don't think a pic of a flat piece is what he was asking for nor really... well... helpful lol

With ANY hard tube fitting, always best to try and get as flat as possible. Personally, when doing mine, I just use a flat surface, 150grit, and hold the tube against it with slight pressure grinding in a circular motion (like going around in a circle with the whole tube) until flat. Some will also use a reamer tool to de burr and put a slight angle on the edges.

If it is a really bad jagged edge or angle, I will take a dremel to it first with a cutting wheel to cut it near flat


----------



## fast_fate

Here's an interesting read I thought I would share with everyone here;
this work log from OZ
Development of Push in fittings for 1/2" OD copper - I would has at a guess that the Primo acrylic will work just fine too.
I decided to support local initiative and purchase 2 dozen of them.
Looks like they have just 17 dozen left from as of today.
Not sure about postage outside of Australia but for Aussies postage is real cheap.
basic web site from start-up company / water cooling enthusiasts - but the fittings look to be top quality.
Rocket Science website and store


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Here's an interesting read I thought I would share with everyone here;
> this work log from OZ
> Development of Push in fittings for 1/2" OD copper - I would has at a guess that the Primo acrylic will work just fine too.
> I decided to support local initiative and purchase 2 dozen of them.
> Looks like they have just 17 dozen left from as of today.
> Not sure about postage outside of Australia but for Aussies postage is real cheap.
> basic web site from start-up company / water cooling enthusiasts - but the fittings look to be top quality.
> Rocket Science website and store


Finally! Oh those look just like the Bitspower fittings. Oh thank god.


----------



## ledzepp3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> I don't think a pic of a flat piece is what he was asking for nor really... well... helpful lol
> 
> With ANY hard tube fitting, always best to try and get as flat as possible. Personally, when doing mine, I just use a flat surface, 150grit, and hold the tube against it with slight pressure grinding in a circular motion (like going around in a circle with the whole tube) until flat. Some will also use a reamer tool to de burr and put a slight angle on the edges.
> 
> If it is a really bad jagged edge or angle, I will take a dremel to it first with a cutting wheel to cut it near flat


The edges definitely clear the first O-ring without a problem, but the whole pipe doesn't completely seal with the second O-Ring. I feel fairly confident, but it's never a bad idea to ask instead of risking $2,000+ worth of hardware.

-Zepp


----------



## Heracles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Here's an interesting read I thought I would share with everyone here;
> this work log from OZ
> Development of Push in fittings for 1/2" OD copper - I would has at a guess that the Primo acrylic will work just fine too.
> I decided to support local initiative and purchase 2 dozen of them.
> Looks like they have just 17 dozen left from as of today.
> Not sure about postage outside of Australia but for Aussies postage is real cheap.
> basic web site from start-up company / water cooling enthusiasts - but the fittings look to be top quality.
> Rocket Science website and store


Wow, nice find man


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> The edges definitely clear the first O-ring without a problem, but the whole pipe doesn't completely seal with the second O-Ring. I feel fairly confident, but it's never a bad idea to ask instead of risking $2,000+ worth of hardware.
> 
> -Zepp


Zepp,

You just need to use a file and eye it. It'll be straight enough. Only using sand paper will take too long, grab a file to square off the ends then use the file at a 45 degree angle around the ends, then finally use like a 400+ grit wet sand paper to smooth it out. My last two builds had not one single leak and they contain TONS of c47's


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> The edges definitely clear the first O-ring without a problem, but the whole pipe doesn't completely seal with the second O-Ring. I feel fairly confident, but it's never a bad idea to ask instead of risking $2,000+ worth of hardware.
> 
> -Zepp
> 
> 
> 
> Zepp,
> 
> You just need to use a file and eye it. It'll be straight enough. Only using sand paper will take too long, grab a file to square off the ends then use the file at a 45 degree angle around the ends, then finally use like a 400+ grit wet sand paper to smooth it out. My last two builds had not one single leak and they contain TONS of c47's
Click to expand...

This.

I just whack a chamfer on it with a flat needle file and call it a day normally.


----------



## Neo Zuko

So what are the best brands of straight pipe fittings again? I was going to go with swiftech fittings but they don't make straight pipe ones...


----------



## robert1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> So what are the best brands of straight pipe fittings again? I was going to go with swiftech fittings but they don't make straight pipe ones...


I used primochill fittings and have had no problems with at all.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Seems that the brand selection for straight pipe fittings is still pretty low.


----------



## cdnGhost

Just curious... anyone on here live in Calgary, AB have the Monsoon bend kit?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Seems that the brand selection for straight pipe fittings is still pretty low.


As of right now, I believe you have metric options from Bitspower and EK. And in Imperial/Inch sizing, you have Primochill and Monsoon. I have used 3 of the 4 (I have only used the Monsoon fitting for flexible tubing, not rigid), all with great results.

I guess the choices come down to your location and the local availability of the bulk tubing for you, as I feel that ALL of the rigid tubing from EVERY one of the watercooling supply shops is WAY overpriced, at least for the clear tubing.


----------



## dropxo

For my build I bought 1/2 inch tubing from a local plastic supplier, $8 for 18feet. and just used sand paper and a file to remove the .7mm for them to fit into bispower c47's. Its not difficult, just need a table with 90 degree edge, some tape, and sandpaper and file.
It was really easy it took about 3 goes to figure out the perfect way to do it and how long to do it for.
So there are other options, if your willing to spend some extra time on the prep work.


----------



## szeged

hey guys, put a little video up of how my build currently sits got a couple questions id like opinions on

first the video -




My loop is in pieces atm because im cleaning my rads and blocks again, you can see some gunk in the loop in the video, i think its from the rad but it could be algae even though i have enough biocide to kill the hanging gardens of babylon lol.

do you guys think i should just clean out the tubing i have currently and use it again? or should i re bend some tube and either A. do the same tube routing or B. do something different for a cleaner look? idk why but the really long runs look tacky to me.

yes i realize some of the bends are off


----------



## Neo Zuko

I would re-bend it if you are not happy (bend it like Korra!!) but I liked it. Man, copper is so nice. With enough reservoirs I think its just as good as acrylic in sexiness.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> hey guys, put a little video up of how my build currently sits got a couple questions id like opinions on
> 
> first the video -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My loop is in pieces atm because im cleaning my rads and blocks again, you can see some gunk in the loop in the video, i think its from the rad but it could be algae even though i have enough biocide to kill the hanging gardens of babylon lol.
> 
> do you guys think i should just clean out the tubing i have currently and use it again? or should i re bend some tube and either A. do the same tube routing or B. do something different for a cleaner look? idk why but the really long runs look tacky to me.
> 
> yes i realize some of the bends are off


Lol I thought it was copper pipes







. Very nice, what dye are you using?


----------



## szeged

Mayhem red, gonna switch to mayhems x1 blood red tomorrow.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I see that Primochill are easier to work with according to MMPCTECH youtube video. More forgiving and less chance of O Ring damage. Due to being an actual compression fitting. Are any of the other ones compression fittings? Like Monsoon or Bitspower (newer ones). For hardlines of course.

I'm on board with the hardline idea for my first water cooling project. I just need to choose a fitting and go with acrylic or copper. Leaning towards Monsoon or Primochill fittings and acrylic as it seems easier to work with then copper and it is clear.

I would love it if Swiftech actually came out with compression fittings for hardlines.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I see that Primochill are easier to work with according to MMPCTECH youtube video. More forgiving and less chance of O Ring damage. Due to being an actual compression fitting. Are any of the other ones compression fittings? Like Monsoon or Bitspower (newer ones). For hardlines of course.
> 
> I'm on board with the hardline idea for my first water cooling project. I just need to choose a fitting and go with acrylic or copper. Leaning towards Monsoon or Primochill fittings and acrylic as it seems easier to work with then copper and it is clear.
> 
> I would love it if Swiftech actually came out with compression fittings for hardlines.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1288&products_id=40045 1/2IDx5/8OD
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1288&products_id=40039 3/8IDx1/2OD

and of course the newer free center model - tech still compression fitting, but uses a lock ring that gets glued to the tube, avail in both sizes as well
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_1026_1288&products_id=40034


----------



## Neo Zuko

OK, so it seems that Monsoon is the way to go over Primochill for me. The Monsoons are compression seem better built to tolerance, according to light forum research which of course is not a shoe in.


----------



## Buzz247

Haven't used the chain gun, but have Primo Ghost and Monsoon free center in my build. Primo ghost/revolver have a nice seat that works even if you edges are a bit off. free center are solid though due to that lock ring - but you HAVE to install it right or it will fail horribly


----------



## Neo Zuko

Mmmmmm. And in one post you destroy my world. Perhaps I'll get the Primochill for now and wait for more brands of fittings to come out. I'm not happy with my choices to say the least, as far as trade offs go. I was happy with Swiftech fittings as a choice before the hardline idea took hold of me
Edit: perhaps that rocket science one...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Mmmmmm. And in one post you destroy my world. Perhaps I'll get the Primochill for now and wait for more brands of fittings to come out. I'm not happy with my choices to say the least, as far as trade offs go. I was happy with Swiftech fittings as a choice before the hardline idea took hold of me
> Edit: perhaps that rocket science one...


Rocket Science are push in double o'ring type for 1/2" OD copper/acrylic.
Just mentioning as I was under the impression you wanted compression type fittings.

Shout out to #### from Rocket Science for the _*AWESOME*_ Customer Service when I placed my order








Appreciated my friend


----------



## Neo Zuko

Edit


----------



## Neo Zuko

I did want compression based on the MMPCTech advice on YouTube.

Based off of these videos...








...I settled on Primochill Black Nickel Straight Revolver Fittings and PETG Clear 1/2 OD x 3/8 ID Rigid Plastic Tubing. Specifically that combo as they work well together in the videos, the Revolver fittings look the best to me, and the Revolvers are seemingly more forgiving installation wise. The PETG tubing is far stronger than acrylic, check out that hammer test!! And yet they bend more easily. Its perfect as I was not liking the fragile nature of the acrylic tubes.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I just pulled the trigger and bought another 18 feet of acrylic, even though I'm extremely close to finishing my build. I figure I can use it for this crazy bending idea I was thinking to incorporate into my build, or just have some spare acrylic around in case something happens.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I did want compression based on the MMPCTech advice on YouTube.
> 
> Based off of these videos...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I settled on Primochill Black Nickel Straight Revolver Fittings and PETG Clear 1/2 OD x 3/8 ID Rigid Plastic Tubing. Specifically that combo as they work well together in the videos, the Revolver fittings look the best to me, and the Revolvers are seemingly more forgiving installation wise. The PETG tubing is far stronger than acrylic, check out that hammer test!! And yet they bend more easily. Its perfect as I was not liking the fragile nature of the acrylic tubes.


The best price I've found for the PETG though is more than 2 times the cost of the Acrylic. And to what end? I've not had a single issue with the acrylic...... Do you routinely hit your tubing with a hammer or something? I guess I'm just not sure what you are worried about overall.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Honestly its not much compared the the total bill of my PC. Stronger is always welcome. And I mean, its acrylic holding water - a small amount more for some piece of mind.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Honestly its not much compared the the total bill of my PC. Stronger is always welcome. And I mean, its acrylic holding water - a small amount more for some piece of mind.


But that's what I'm asking, piece of mind from what?? I mean sure, in an industrial environment where impact resistance is needed, sure. But inside your PC, there is zero benefit to it. If you want to use it just to be different, great. But inside the computer, it's not beneficial.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Its not really worth going further into it, its a gut feeling, its purely an opinion based choice as I'm not considering money. I was going to go copper just for its a stronger material, this is the best of both worlds IMHO. In those cases I tend to but the better product. MMPCTech guys seem to love it. That's enough for me.


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Its not really worth going further into it, its a gut feeling, its purely an opinion based choice as I'm not considering money. I was going to go copper just for its a stronger material, this is the best of both worlds IMHO. In those cases I tend to but the better product. MMPCTech guys seem to love it. That's enough for me.


Ok, was just wondering. And there isn't any proof it's the better product, just different, IMHO.

Also, it's MNPCTech!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Gotcha!! I almost have my parts list down, see my rig drop down menu below.


----------



## IT Diva

You may want to look at where the petg is coming from, it's advantage is supposed to be that it forms at lower temps than acrylic, so not so much heating is required, as well as the fact that it really is designed to be heated and formed, but I've found that it runs about .003" to .004" larger in OD than nominal 1/2" acrylic, and sometimes the collars of the fitting won't slide on.

I've even got one length of acrylic, (McMaster) that's on the high side of spec, and I can't slide a collar on, so be careful of where you get the petg.

If you get it from a plastics place, be sure to get extra.

If the place in your videos sells it, I'm should think they would be sure the collars all fit.

Darlene


----------



## Neo Zuko

I would not even know were else to get it. Seems that is a theme, specs of hard lines are sometimes slightly off. I updated my buy list for my rig









How about some hard line Illustrator renderings?









Most likely not the actual bends, but fun to draw non-the-less


----------



## Audiophile20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Haven't used the chain gun, but have Primo Ghost and Monsoon free center in my build. Primo ghost/revolver have a nice seat that works even if you edges are a bit off. free center are solid though due to that lock ring - but you HAVE to install it right or it will fail horribly


Hi, can you please elaborate what you mean install it correctly? If you mean the collar should be glued correctly, that I get. Are there any other insights I am missing? Please note I am fairly sold on the idea do hardline and related compression fittings. Just not sure if I want it go Monsoon or Primochill. I like the idea of Monsoon for the holding power but is that really an issue for Primochill impressions? I think Monsoon fittings are a bit smaller than Primochill?

Comments please? Thx!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Most likely means how the base of the pipe is seated in the compression fitting and how much room for error there is with how flush the pipes are.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> The best price I've found for the PETG though is more than 2 times the cost of the Acrylic. And to what end? I've not had a single issue with the acrylic...... Do you routinely hit your tubing with a hammer or something? I guess I'm just not sure what you are worried about overall.


The video says it gets soft at a much lower temperature. Making it easier to bend.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile20*
> 
> Hi, can you please elaborate what you mean install it correctly? If you mean the collar should be glued correctly, that I get. Are there any other insights I am missing? Please note I am fairly sold on the idea do hardline and related compression fittings. Just not sure if I want it go Monsoon or Primochill. I like the idea of Monsoon for the holding power but is that really an issue for Primochill impressions? I think Monsoon fittings are a bit smaller than Primochill?
> 
> Comments please? Thx!


I wont be able to share experience on the new monsoon hard lock in another week or two.
But I have placed my order.. 3/8'' 1/2'' and Monsoon Chain Gun hard lock fittings.

I like their idea as well







I will feel more secure when moving my PC to LAN parties and such with this "hard lock" thing.. The package is still in the states :S
guessing snow problems?
The bends doesnt have to be as precise vs push in /w O-rings (but who makes imperfect bends with acrylic?)
The collar adds a mm or so to the length of the tube, but should be easy to measure.

I cant wait to test them out! and hope that the chain guns doesnt look TOO bulky..


----------



## Neo Zuko

Well you should have NO trouble BENDING at all. lol.


----------



## hell167

With this tubing (specifically the monsoon tubes) does it no longer have to be replaced when cleaning like flexible tubing? How long do they last? When cleaning do I just take apart and clean with a brush?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You may want to look at where the petg is coming from, it's advantage is supposed to be that it forms at lower temps than acrylic, so not so much heating is required, as well as the fact that it really is designed to be heated and formed, but I've found that it runs about .003" to .004" larger in OD than nominal 1/2" acrylic, and sometimes the collars of the fitting won't slide on.
> 
> I've even got one length of acrylic, (McMaster) that's on the high side of spec, and I can't slide a collar on, so be careful of where you get the petg.
> 
> If you get it from a plastics place, be sure to get extra.
> 
> If the place in your videos sells it, I'm should think they would be sure the collars all fit.
> 
> Darlene


The videos shows the part # at mcmasters to get it.

I was tempted for a bit to go that route just because they had said how easy it is to bend and it had a slower cooling time. That's part of my issue as well. The Acrylic was cooling too fast for me.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hell167*
> 
> With this tubing (specifically the monsoon tubes) does it no longer have to be replaced when cleaning like flexible tubing?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> How long do they last?
> 
> 
> 
> When cleaning do I just take apart and clean with a brush?
Click to expand...

How long do they last? Far into the future. I dunno...

but I have a good idea:



OR till winter freezes over:


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Well you should have NO trouble BENDING at all. lol.


Good one


----------



## Audiophile20

Thanks that makes sense.


----------



## Audiophile20

Thank you! I look forward to your experience and look forward to hearing your impressions. It is a struggle for me deciding Monsoon vs Primochill. I think if you like Monsoon then I will try them as well


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I seriously need to get another titan to fill up all this empty space.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2098.jpg.html


----------



## wigger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I seriously need to get another titan to fill up all this empty space.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2098.jpg.html


Holy cow!!
Looking good


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I seriously need to get another titan to fill up all this empty space.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2098.jpg.html


Looks great and gives me inspiring ideas


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> Looks great and gives me inspiring ideas


Thanks... The area where the flow indicators are will be closed off with a panel of smoked acrylic that I bought long ago when this project started. But since that area is covered up by the door panel anyway, it makes no difference if I used an acrylic panel or not.

Here's a mockup.


----------



## Abenlog

Has anyone used the E22 10/8mm tubing? that's what I have but I'm having trouble finding a silicone hose that will fit inside. What did you guys use?


----------



## Neo Zuko

Oh yea where do I buy the inner hose stuff?


----------



## szeged

got some acrylic done in the sth10, only 1/3 the way there so far, trying to figure out how im gonna do the top rad area without making things look crowded as all hell


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> Has anyone used the E22 10/8mm tubing? that's what I have but I'm having trouble finding a silicone hose that will fit inside. What did you guys use?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Oh yea where do I buy the inner hose stuff?
Click to expand...

Darlene (IT Diva) suggested this "in medium, or for tighter bends the medium soft durometer":
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For you guys using E22 or other 10mm tubing, McMaster is still your best friend.
> 
> Solid silicon cord . . . . super easy to work with, noticably better than the buna-N
> 
> Get the 3/8" size in medium, or for tighter bends the medium soft durometer.
> 
> I've been using this since the first E22 tubing, and it's top tier.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> From the catalog:
> 
> FDA-Compliant Silicone Rubber
> 
> Color: See below
> Temperature Range: See below
> Tensile Strength: See below
> Use indoors and outdoors
> 
> Made from FDA-compliant materials, this silicone rubber is safe for food contact and maintains its flexibility over a wide temperature range.
> 
> Cord-Smooth Finish
> 
> Color: Orange-red
> Temperature Range: -65° to +400° F
> Tensile Strength: 650 psi
> 
> Length tolerance is ±1/4". Durometer tolerance is ±5.
> 
> To Order: Please specify durometer hardness: 40A (medium soft), 50A (medium), 60A (medium hard), or 70A (hard).
> 
> 36" Long
> 
> Dia. Dia.
> Tolerance Each
> 
> 1/8" ±0.016" 9808K21 $6.43
> 1/4" ±0.027" 9808K22 6.85
> 3/8" ±0.027" 9808K23 8.40
> 1/2" ±0.031" 9808K24 9.32
> 3/4" ±0.039" 9808K25 13.31
> 1" ±0.051" 9808K26 18.13


Or, if using 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID tubing, like Primochill's, Darlene likewise suggested McMaster-Carr's O-ring bending cord (part # 9679K27 : 9.0mm Nominal Width, .354" Actual Width. That's what I've been using. It's much easier to work with than the hollow-core bending tube from Primochill.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got some acrylic done in the sth10, only 1/3 the way there so far, trying to figure out how im gonna do the top rad area without making things look crowded as all hell
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looking good man I like this look with the straight lines...


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> got some acrylic done in the sth10, only 1/3 the way there so far, trying to figure out how im gonna do the top rad area without making things look crowded as all hell
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


I really do think it would be better without the 90 degree connectors in the middle of the run. But I do realize that is a hard bend to do.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I really do think it would be better without the 90 degree connectors in the middle of the run. But I do realize that is a hard bend to do.


You may think I am crazy but I like the straight lines of hard tubing and using fittings to might 90 and 45 degree bends!!!


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Darlene (IT Diva) suggested this "in medium, or for tighter bends the medium soft durometer":
> Or, if using 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID tubing, like Primochill's, Darlene likewise suggested McMaster-Carr's O-ring bending cord (part # 9679K27 : 9.0mm Nominal Width, .354" Actual Width. That's what I've been using. It's much easier to work with than the hollow-core bending tube from Primochill.


I appreciate the post but it doesn't answer my question. This is for 10 mm ID but I've already but 8mm ID hard acrylic. I'm going to look for 7.5mm silicone rubber.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I really do think it would be better without the 90 degree connectors in the middle of the run. But I do realize that is a hard bend to do.


yeah i was going to do nothing but bends, but i got the fittings for free and as you said, that is a major PITA bend to do. Fortunately im with seross here, i actually like straight runs with fittings more than bending, but my original plan was to do all bends because it was cheaper


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abenlog*
> 
> I appreciate the post but it doesn't answer my question. This is for 10 mm ID but I've already but 8mm ID hard acrylic. I'm going to look for 7.5mm silicone rubber.


Sorry, you asked about an insert for "E22 10/8mm tubing" & I assumed that's what IT Diva was referring to. I didn't even realize until just now that E22 acrylic tubing came in different sizes.

Their silicone rubber cord only comes in imperial sizes and the next smaller diameter is 1/4" (6.35mm) which would be too small for an 8mm ID tube.

You'd probably be better off to look at their Buna-N O-Ring Cord Stock which comes in both imperial and metric sizes including a 7.5mm flavor. As I mentioned before, that's the same type cord I'm using with Primochill's 3/8 ID tube except I'm using the 9mm size.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Or, if using 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID tubing, like Primochill's, Darlene likewise suggested McMaster-Carr's O-ring bending cord (part # 9679K27 : 9.0mm Nominal Width, .354" Actual Width. That's what I've been using. It's much easier to work with than the hollow-core bending tube from Primochill.


So this is the best to use for stabilizing the middle during a bend?

For Primochill Revlovers and PETG Clear 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID Rigid Plastic Tubing?


----------



## Neo Zuko

I just noted that McMaster seems to only do imperial. Is that true, no metric at McMaster?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Or, if using 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID tubing, like Primochill's, Darlene likewise suggested McMaster-Carr's O-ring bending cord (part # 9679K27 : 9.0mm Nominal Width, .354" Actual Width. That's what I've been using. It's much easier to work with than the hollow-core bending tube from Primochill.
> 
> 
> 
> So this is the best to use for stabilizing the middle during a bend?
> 
> For Primochill Revlovers and PETG Clear 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID Rigid Plastic Tubing?
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I've been using ever since Darlene suggested it. It definitely works better than Primochill's bending cord. I'm not aware of any better bending cord for 3/8" ID tubing. Perhaps the cord that came in the Monsoon kit is good too. I have that also but I haven't even tried it as the McMaster Carr O-Ring cord seems to be working just fine for me so far and @ just ~16" (~400mm) Monsoon's is quite a bit shorter than what I've gotten used to working with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I just noted that McMaster seems to only do imperial. Is that true, no metric at McMaster?


Not sure where you're getting that. The O-Ring bending cord referred / linked to above is 9mm. As I wrote just a few posts back in response to Abenlog looking for a cord to work with 8mm ID tubing ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> [...] You'd probably be better off to look at *their Buna-N O-Ring Cord Stock which comes in both imperial and metric sizes* including a 7.5mm flavor. As I mentioned before, that's the same type cord I'm using with Primochill's 3/8 ID tube except I'm using the 9mm size.


If you scroll down below the imperial sizes you should see the *Metric O-Ring Cord Stock* listings.


----------



## Neo Zuko

My mistake, I just noted that McMaster is in the USA and that the PETA Tube I want isn't made in metric. But I suppose other are. And I noted that stuff was metric after I posted, that inner tube stuff. That lack of metric PETA tube stopped my thoughts of going with a EK or Bitspower fitting right off the bat.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Sorry, I don't know anything about *P*eople for the *E*thical *T*reatment of *A*nimals tubing.









As far as tubing goes from any US supplier, McMaster or otherwise, you'll probably have a hard time finding it in metric.


----------



## Neo Zuko

edit


----------



## Neo Zuko

I had to edit this post as the info was moving fast in my research and reading.

Oh crap I made a typo, its PETG tube. Duh. Its that plastic stuff that is hammer hard. I posted a video not long ago on it.

The Monsoon Fittings keep drawing me back in, I may have to get them in to check them out. Found these images at the website, they seem imperial sized

What do you guys think? Could I get the PETG tubing I was going to use with Primochill to work with the Monsoons? If the PETG tubing is 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID, McMaster.com #9245K21?

Oh and I posted a pic above of the layers of what it is coated in. Of interest to me because I want to keep my loop simple with how many metals I am mixing. Some are more complex than others, I think I will go for the black nickel.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Oh crap I made a typo, its PETG tube. Duh. Its that plastic stuff that is hammer hard. I posted a video not long ago on it.
> 
> The Monsoon Fittings keep drawing me back in, I may have to get them in to check them out. But then I would need another tube choice. Hmmmmm.
> 
> EDIT: I'm not sure I need another tube choice, perhaps, here is the website info that Monsoon has for the hard line compression fittings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Images
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They don't specify metric or imperial, they just list both. Now I've read here on the forum that Monsoon is Metric, But then I reasoned that perhaps they work with both at the same size as they don't compress the sides, they compress the ends. What do you think? Could I get the PETG tubing to work if the PETG tubing is 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID, McMaster.com #9245K21?
> 
> Oh and I posted a pic above of the layers of what it is coated in. Of interest to me because I want to keep my loop simple with how many metals I am mixing.


The answer to that would probably rely on whether you would be able to securely glue Monsoon's collars or some identically-sized PETG collars to the PETG tube for the fittings. I don't know that the glue that Monsoon uses to attach their acrylic collars to acrylic tubing is going to work with PETG tubing. I'm not sure anyone would be able to answer that for you either. You might have to gamble and try it yourself or maybe find a different glue that would work.

I'm not sure why a different tubing other than acrylic but essentially looks the same would be worth messing with. My only experience so far has been with Primochill's tubing and fittings, so I can't speak for any other, but the primochill tubing is strong enough I can grab any tube and slowly pull it hard enough to slide my case - over 70 lbs (32 kg) - a little bit on the table top or when pulled to the side the feet like to grab and the case wants to tip over instead of slide, all without breaking a tube or it popping loose from the fitting. Now I'm sure if I yanked a tube really hard and fast I'd break it or it would pop loose from a fitting, as I'm sure the same would happen with ANY type of tubing rigid or flexible, but there is no possible normal use scenario where I could see any reason to doubt acrylic's suitability for use in a watercooling loop.

Perhaps some of the metric tubing is thinner-walled than Primochill's or that push-fits don't hold as tight as Primochill's compressions? That I dunno. I just get the impression that you think acrylic is too fragile for some reason, and I can say that it is not. When you consider the amount of acrylic tube builds in use, you sure don't see a rash of people posting about any such issues with it. IMHO it's perfect.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I see my edit did not reach you in time, ah well. My research if flying fast.

I am only reading and doing nothing practical, but either way I want to try the PETG stuff as it was nice in the MNPCTECH video. They just liked the stuff a lot. It was super clear, it was plastic and far less brittle, easier to heat and bend. Its not that acrylic does not work, its that I think this will work better. Just like my plastic eye lenses vs poly lenses. They both work, but one is vastly nicer to own. But if it came down to it, I would choose the Monsoon fittings over the PETG tube, now that I think about it. I just watched a video that sold me on the Monsoons. They way they compress while being thinner at the base will come in handy. Even if you have to be very good on the installation, I like it better. And the looks of them are growing on me and now I just found out you can use it with a LED on a Monsoon corner fitting to light up the tube. Perfect.

All I can do is try it out. Seems I will need to order up a bunch of kinds of tube and poke around. I emailed Monsoon about it though.


----------



## Abenlog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sorry, you asked about an insert for "E22 10/8mm tubing" & I assumed that's what IT Diva was referring to. I didn't even realize until just now that E22 acrylic tubing came in different sizes.
> 
> Their silicone rubber cord only comes in imperial sizes and the next smaller diameter is 1/4" (6.35mm) which would be too small for an 8mm ID tube.
> 
> You'd probably be better off to look at their Buna-N O-Ring Cord Stock which comes in both imperial and metric sizes including a 7.5mm flavor. As I mentioned before, that's the same type cord I'm using with Primochill's 3/8 ID tube except I'm using the 9mm size.


Thanks for your help! +rep. I'll update once I get the chord in and do some test bends.


----------



## Ovrclck

@szeged
I did your setup! What size acrylic are you using btw?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> @szeged
> I did your setup! What size acrylic are you using btw?


Thanks









Using e22 10/12 acrylic.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using e22 10/12 acrylic.


Thanks buddy!


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm currently using both Bitspower C48's and C47's in my build. Post #2162 is how they look in my build right now. Look closely and you'll see both C47's and C48's all over the mobo.
> 
> They don't bulge out any further than the rotary adaptors I've screwed some of them too, they don't take away from the overall design of the build, and they certainly don't have that horrible Sea Dragon logo anywhere on them. If you want some subtle fittings for your build, then the C48's and C47's will do your rig justice. But if you're looking for a little more flash and bling, then go with the other brands.


Totally couldn't agree more.


----------



## szeged

almost there


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> almost there


What made you want to do 90 degree fittings, versus creating bends in that area below the GPU?


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> What made you want to do 90 degree fittings, versus creating bends in that area below the GPU?


well i got these fittings for free, so i decided i was going to use them instead of just let them sit, i wanted to go for a balance of bends and fittings without making it look like i was drunk when doing the runs lol, im sitting here looking at the final product and i think it turned out pretty good, i gotta go back and order some more tubing tomorrow to fix a couple spots but other than that i like it. Half bends half fittings didnt turn out as bad as i thought it would. I might add some ram blocks to the loop, but i might just keep it like it is, ill have to see how it looks when i draw it up with some ram blocks in the mix.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> almost there
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome! Aren't you scared of the weight of the water undoing those 90s below your GPU?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I can't imagine wanting to do a whole rig with it. Fast Fate did one, which I linked to a while back, and the tubing / piping looks the pits to me.
> 
> Where it would be useful is as a substitute for regular extensions in a loop done in E22 / C47's on the mobo blocks.
> 
> Shorty male to male connectors to connect it to ram or chipset / mosfet blocks could look nicer, while being as rigid, as regular extensions.
> 
> It would do that with the available lengths just fine.
> 
> Darlene


Bit







as no bending involved but still acrylic and the tubes been mentioned in here a few times.
Just finished another loop with the threaded tube.
I reckon this one looks heaps better as not crossing over each other like on the RIVE board I did which had ram, chipset and vrm blocks - that was too much








I love a good bend up also, but chose to use these again aiming for streamlined


----------



## luciddreamer124

Looks very nice! What graphics blocks are those? Also, is it just the pictures or is that SLI bridge brown? If so, you should plastidip that ****


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luciddreamer124*
> 
> Looks very nice! What graphics blocks are those? Also, is it just the pictures or is that SLI bridge brown? If so, you should plastidip that ****


Yeah - the SLI bridge is brown








OK now promise not to laugh, it's an old rig kinda revamped








The cards are GTX 570's with BitsPower VG-NGTX580 acrylic blocks and backplates.


----------



## luciddreamer124

Those blocks are crazy!! So thick haha. Ya, that bridge needs some treatment. Plastidip is probably the best way.


----------



## ledzepp3

I'm all of a sudden having problems with the acrylic bubbling- suggestions on how to prevent it?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> I'm all of a sudden having problems with the acrylic bubbling- suggestions on how to prevent it?


Take your time and put the heat gun on a lower setting. I too had the same issues when I first started acrylic bending. Now, it's nonexistent.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Am I the only one who has a lot of issues doing tear downs with acrylic? I know that I do rush a little but ive had to take my pc apart 4 times in the last year due to problems and 2 out of the 4 times ive broken tubes :-/


----------



## Neo Zuko

All of a sudden, strong very clear less brittle plastic PETG tubes seem like a better idea!! I get it, acrylic works. But why not get stronger I still say.


----------



## OneFast3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> All of a sudden, strong very clear less brittle plastic PETG tubes seem like a better idea!! I get it, acrylic works. But why not get stronger I still say.


Was looking into this and Polycarbonate but want to have UV light in my setup. PETG is not rated for UV but the Polycarbonate is, but they both yellow over time. Not sure how long it takes but with UV will be fast on the PETG also make it brittle. Also the acrylic has a better clarity. Have to see how the long term is with the MOD zoo's setup.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> All of a sudden, strong very clear less brittle plastic PETG tubes seem like a better idea!! I get it, acrylic works. But why not get stronger I still say.


I think that the "the stronger, the better" argument is kind of weird in this scenario considering that the PCB/capacitors/etc inside your PC are more fragile than acrylic in the first place...

And trust me, Acrylic tubing is NOT weak at all. It's strong enough even for a LAN rig. Save yourself some money and quit the paranoia.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> I think that the "the stronger, the better" argument is kind of weird in this scenario considering that the PCB/capacitors/etc inside your PC are more fragile than acrylic in the first place...
> 
> And trust me, Acrylic tubing is NOT weak at all. It's strong enough even for a LAN rig. Save yourself some money and quit the paranoia.


I also agree with this... Unless you plan on changing coolant frequently, moving or tilting your rig around often, I don't see the need to upgrade it to a more durable substance. In fact, isn't that one of the main reasons why acrylic is preferred over soft tubing - to do away with plasticizing, tube yellowing, and frequent coolant maintenance, as well as its durability and versatility.

In the time I've created the main "squiggle" bends in my loop several weeks ago, I've pushed and pulled them in and out of my Bitspower fittings more than I'd like to, but it was a necessity to finish off the alignment of my flow indicators. And so far, the acrylic tubing seems to be holding up okay... That doesn't mean that I don't cringe with anticipation each time I have to do it though.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Awesome! Aren't you scared of the weight of the water undoing those 90s below your GPU?


This too... Especially with those C48's. I wouldn't worry so much with C47's though, they're pretty strong and lock on to E22 pretty tight.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> This too... Especially with those C48's. I wouldn't worry so much with C47's though, they're pretty strong and lock on to E22 pretty tight.


They're not c48 but these:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39718


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> They're not c48 but these:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39718


What I was eluding to was that it appears to only have a single o-ring, versus the two that a C47 has.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I'm not putting down acrylic per say, just pointing out a case where it would have helped. But I'll try the PETG tube first just to be a pioneer. Its a moot point from the point of view I have. But when I change my loop 4 times, I KNOW I'll do better than that other poster.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I'm not putting down acrylic per say, just pointing out a case where it would have helped. But I'll try the PETG tube first just to be a pioneer. Its a moot point from the point of view I have. But when I change my loop 4 times, I KNOW I'll do better than that other poster.


Please do it and tell us how it performed







. This material seems good and strong


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> All of a sudden, strong very clear less brittle plastic PETG tubes seem like a better idea!! I get it, acrylic works. But why not get stronger I still say.


Glass and plastics are very much impacted by differential cooling. I have dropped Pyrex on tile floors with narry a crack but lay a hot pyrex dish counter top upon which there was a small puddle of water which dripped say from something you just washed and it cracks .... in some cases it shatters quite violently......if ya ever did a notch weakness test in a school lab, (where ya take small files and scratch a groove into a piece metal bar stock it breaks quite easily. Some peeps even cut acrylic by using this method.

Point being any treatment which results in uneven distribution of stresses will cause a weak point in most rigid materials. If you are going to unscrew a bent piece of acrylic.... just at one end.... taking it out before loosening the other end or taking it out at the same time will create such stresses. OTOH, straight tubes which have not been scratched or differentially heated / cooled are surprisingly resistant to bending .... I have a U shaped section whether the tube in the bottom of the U between two 90s is about 10mm and have pulled it apart on several occasions with both ends still screwed in.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Its all different strokes for different folks. I'll be the first to say that.

EDIT: Its different Pipes for different Types!!!!!!!! Yes!!!! I love it!!!


----------



## Hefner

Don't quote me on this but according to my research PETG tubing is hygroscopic which could mean that it leaches like traditional flex tubing. If this is true then PMMA is definitely superior over PETG.

Would someone with more knowledge regarding this topic mind shedding some light on this?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Don't quote me on this but according to my research PETG tubing is hygroscopic which supposedly means that it leeches like traditional flex tubing does. If this is true then PMMA is definitely superior over PETG.
> 
> Would someone with more knowledge regarding this topic mind shedding some light on this?


Hmmm, hygroscopic means it absorbs water, so wouldn't that make it more susceptible to staining from dyes/coolants?

Also, I wonder if a waterlogged tube of PETG displays the same strength characteristics as it does when it's dry? Might it become more flexible or even slippery, etc, perhaps enough to make it more likely slip out of a fitting under pressure, or anything like that?


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Hmmm, hygroscopic means it absorbs water, so wouldn't that make it more susceptible to staining from dyes/coolants?
> 
> Also, I wonder if a waterlogged tube of PETG displays the same strength characteristics as it does when it's dry? Might it become more flexible or even slippery, etc, perhaps enough to make it more likely slip out of a fitting under pressure, or anything like that?


Yeah I was wondering whether there is a connection between it being hygroscopic and leaching.

So from the information i've found it seems like PETG will leach Phthalate(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phthalates) and Antimony(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antimony). I'm not able to find clear information on this though nor am I knowledgeable enough to make my own conclusions.

Any chemists on OCN? I'm interested.


----------



## WiSK

Not a chemist, but believe that PETG (as opposed to regular PET) is not hygroscopic enough to have the same magnitude of leaching / staining issues as flexible tubing. After all, this is the stuff they use for bottled water, and many other containers for liquids.

Glass transition temperature is low though (70C), keep it away from heatsinks. Plus it will yellow in sunlight and UV light, which acrylic doesn't.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Not a chemist, but believe that PETG (as opposed to regular PET) is not hygroscopic enough to have the same magnitude of leaching / staining issues as flexible tubing. After all, this is the stuff they use for bottled water, and many other containers for liquids.
> 
> Glass transition temperature is low though (70C), keep it away from heatsinks. Plus it will yellow in sunlight and UV light, which acrylic doesn't.


The hygroscopic rate of PETG is about 0,40%. For the sake of comparison, do you have any idea what the hygroscopic rate of traditional flex tubing is?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> The hygroscopic rate of PETG is about 0,40%. For the sake of comparison, do you have any idea what the hygroscopic rate of traditional flex tubing is?


I think that number could be misleading and difficult to compare realistically. It will depend on temperature firstly. Secondly it doesn't tell you what the saturation point is, could be a high exponential curve (ie it gets full up quickly and doesn't absorb more). Thirdly we don't know what the consequence of the water absorption is, maybe unlike flex tube there is maybe little amount of substance that leeches out. Lastly that figure is likely a measurement made when totally submersed, so half it for w/c tubing.

That's why I would just look at the applications it's used for in the real world: bottled water. If it's used for a food product, that can have long shelf life, then how likely is it that it leeches stuff out in large quantities? On the other hand, those bottles are designed to degrade in sunlight, to be bio friendly. So maybe not so great for w/c.

I dunno


----------



## Neo Zuko

Edit.


----------



## Neo Zuko

McMaster does list PETG as Machinable and Bendable Clear PETG Tube, 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID. But the PDF it says "Excelon does not recommend in Outdoor use or in the presence of heavy UV" which may be a deal breaker. I take this to mean it would yellow over a long time like an SNES in sunlight.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Don't quote me on this but according to my research PETG tubing is hygroscopic which could mean that it leaches like traditional flex tubing. If this is true then PMMA is definitely superior over PETG.
> 
> Would someone with more knowledge regarding this topic mind shedding some light on this?


Is PMMA just the normal acrylic we use in CPU/GPU tops and hardline pipes in PCs or is it a different kind of acrylic? So my current conclusion is I think possible yellowing is something I want to avoid. So I'm most likely going to stick with acrylic now unless some new info pops up. Since I may want to use UV and I don't want to have to worry about sunlight yellowing my pipes.

Does the kinds of Acrylic we use in PCs yellow at all?


----------



## Hefner

PMMA is the acrylic we use for our PCs. It's UV resistant.

I'm still curious about PETG. I'd love to see some tubing that has been used 1-2 years.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Got my package a few hours ago ^ ^
Monsoon pipes and hard lock fittings.

Here is some pics of my first test bend:

The cable I used as insert didnt work too well







gonna have to look into something better..
The mandrel is homemade and seams to work really well!

What do you guys think? Do I have a chance?








More pics in my build log, will post more here once I get further in the project.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Got my package a few hours ago ^ ^
> Monsoon pipes and hard lock fittings.
> 
> Here is some pics of my first test bend:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cable I used as insert didnt work too well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna have to look into something better..
> The mandrel is homemade and seams to work really well!
> 
> What do you guys think? Do I have a chance?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More pics in my build log, will post more here once I get further in the project.










@ the cable. Got to hand it to you for trying something new. Too bad it didn't work.

You might try taking a piece of the tube to an auto parts store and look for fuel line, windshield washer hose, vacuum hose, etc that fits inside the tube. If they have silicone fuel line that's what you want. And if you can find a small diameter vacuum hose that will fit inside the hose it will probably do even better in bends.


----------



## lowfat

Did you 3d print the mandrel or how is it made?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ the cable. Got to hand it to you for trying something new. Too bad it didn't work.
> 
> You might try taking a piece of the tube to an auto parts store and look for fuel line, windshield washer hose, vacuum hose, etc that fits inside the tube. If they have silicone fuel line that's what you want. And if you can find a small diameter vacuum hose that will fit inside the hose it will probably do even better in bends.


Good tip







I will check that out tomorrow








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Did you 3d print the mandrel or how is it made?


It is made in a million dollar CNC machine lol.. One of my friends works on those machines daily, so I asked him to make me a few sizes when no one was looking







so was totally free and fits my tubes perfectly.

Pheew, spent the last 5 hours getting my machine ready for bending.. Cleaning blocks / radiators / res, Changing fittings to acrylic hard lock's from monsoon, installing new GPU water block etc.

As you can see, It is not gonna be anything close to some of the acrylic builds we see in this thread.. just 3 lengths of acrylic is gonna do it for me









I will post photos of the finished project when I get that fare, but if interested, you guys can check out my build log for more details / other project im doing simultaneously


----------



## Solonowarion

Man the beggining of last year when I tried acrylic and there wasnt anything out for it yet. I had all kind of tube and was shoving usb cables and power cables into the tube to try and make it bigger.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For you guys using E22 or other 10mm tubing, McMaster is still your best friend.
> 
> Solid silicon cord . . . . super easy to work with, noticably better than the buna-N
> 
> Get the 3/8" size in medium, or for tighter bends the medium soft durometer.
> 
> I've been using this since the first E22 tubing, and it's top tier.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> From the catalog:
> 
> FDA-Compliant Silicone Rubber
> 
> Color: See below
> Temperature Range: See below
> Tensile Strength: See below
> Use indoors and outdoors
> 
> Made from FDA-compliant materials, this silicone rubber is safe for food contact and maintains its flexibility over a wide temperature range.
> 
> Cord-Smooth Finish
> 
> Color: Orange-red
> Temperature Range: -65° to +400° F
> Tensile Strength: 650 psi
> 
> Length tolerance is ±1/4". Durometer tolerance is ±5.
> 
> To Order: Please specify durometer hardness: 40A (medium soft), 50A (medium), 60A (medium hard), or 70A (hard).
> 
> 36" Long
> 
> Dia. Dia.
> Tolerance Each
> 
> 1/8" ±0.016" 9808K21 $6.43
> 1/4" ±0.027" 9808K22 6.85
> 3/8" ±0.027" 9808K23 8.40
> 1/2" ±0.031" 9808K24 9.32
> 3/4" ±0.039" 9808K25 13.31
> 1" ±0.051" 9808K26 18.13


Thank you! I went ahead and ordered both 40A and 50A just in case. +Rep


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I finally closed off the last part of my loop in my build, so I'm happy that's behind me now. I'll probably do a leak test sometime next week, since I have my daughter's birthday party going on this weekend. In all though, it's been quite an experience using acrylic... And I'd do it all over again if I had to.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Done some bending today.
What do you guys think?



I redid the pipe between CPU and 120rad, rest just came out perfect








But then again, I dont have any hard runs, so shouldnt be that hard compared to many of the other builds in here ^_^

I had about 3 meters of acrylic, still have 1.5 meters left







so loads of room to perfect the bends, but I think it is close to perfect as it is right now.

Anyone have any info on the monsoon UV adhesive? do I need clear sky to cure it in the sun?
The thing is, we are gonna have cloudy weather the entire weekend, and I want the glue to cure properly..

Thanks.


----------



## szeged

more in the build log


----------



## badjz

I can't get the silicon tube to fit for the life of me. I have tried sanding and olive oil, still no luck. It's the correct size, so don't understand why it won't fit....

Any help/ suggestions would be appreciated...


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badjz*
> 
> I can't get the silicon tube to fit for the life of me. I have tried sanding and olive oil, still no luck. It's the correct size, so don't understand why it won't fit....
> 
> Any help/ suggestions would be appreciated...


Keep sanding. Took me a long time of sanding before my EK bending cord fit. Just sand it down while watching a movie.


----------



## badjz

Ok cheers bud, I'll keep grinding away... Any particular grit I should be sanding with?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Keep sanding. Took me a long time of sanding before my EK bending cord fit. Just sand it down while watching a movie.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badjz*
> 
> I can't get the silicon tube to fit for the life of me. I have tried sanding and olive oil, still no luck. It's the correct size, so don't understand why it won't fit....
> 
> Any help/ suggestions would be appreciated...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *badjz*
> 
> I can't get the silicon tube to fit for the life of me. I have tried sanding and olive oil, still no luck. It's the correct size, so don't understand why it won't fit....
> 
> Any help/ suggestions would be appreciated
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep sanding. Took me a long time of sanding before my EK bending cord fit. Just sand it down while watching a movie.
Click to expand...

Or you could do it the easy way, and just get something that works . . . . .

McMaster-Carr's O-ring bending cord (part # 9679K27 : 9.0mm Nominal Width, .354"

Search it on the forums, you'll find a lot of guys went with it and say it's fine.

Seems it gets mentioned every few pages cuz new guys don't seem to like to search.

Get a 3" length and you'll be set.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Sanding silicone....how pointless.

4 tube Ups later and im still on the same 2ft of silicone fuel line that I started with....get 9mm OD rather than the interference fit that is being peddled right now.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sanding silicone....how pointless.
> 
> 4 tube Ups later and im still on the same 2ft of silicone fuel line that I started with....get 9mm OD rather than the interference fit that is being peddled right now.


Does that have any bearing on the likely hood of flattening etc, (cord smaller than tube) do you think?

I have been using the Primochill imperial 3/8 cord with 10mm tube and it seemed to work fine. Need to do some more though.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badjz*
> 
> I can't get the silicon tube to fit for the life of me. I have tried sanding and olive oil, still no luck. It's the correct size, so don't understand why it won't fit....
> 
> Any help/ suggestions would be appreciated...


I started bending yesterday and had exactly same problem.. I tried sanding it (for 30 min or so with P220) I tried oil and other lubes.. didnt seam to do much.
I ended up taking a needle and a piece of string.. put it through the end of the silicon tube/cord/insert, sent the string down the acrylic pipe and PULLED the silicon through the tube







MUCH easier than trying to push it in.

Worked great for me, I hope my findings will help you as well








Good luck!


----------



## Hefner

Oh c'mon not everyone has that stuff available where they live. Like hell I'm gonna pay for intercontinental shipping for a McMaster cord.

And sanding the cord is not that bad. Took me about 45 mins until it fit nicely with liquid handsoap. I didn't use oil because you cant clean it easily with water like soap.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Sanding silicone....how pointless.
> 
> 4 tube Ups later and im still on the same 2ft of silicone fuel line that I started with....get 9mm OD rather than the interference fit that is being peddled right now.
> 
> 
> 
> Does that have any bearing on the likely hood of flattening etc, (cord smaller than tube) do you think?
> 
> I have been using the Primochill imperial 3/8 cord with 10mm tube and it seemed to work fine. Need to do some more though.
Click to expand...

Its what I use,the secret is to pull it out then round the former,no flattening to the tube at all. The recent tubing I did for PARVUM's project Magnus had bends going thru 12mm slots,too tight unless I gently pulled it round the former.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Oh c'mon not everyone has that stuff available where they live.


http://www.wildkamp.nl/Vitryl-transparante-siliconenslang-6-x-9-mm-l-25-m_pr_750406


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> http://www.wildkamp.nl/Vitryl-transparante-siliconenslang-6-x-9-mm-l-25-m_pr_750406


Thanks, but it's hollow. Solid works much better. I originally had the primochill bending cord which I threw away because it's hollow and bends kept kinking. I also think that a real snug fit is important for easy bending.


----------



## lowfat

I personally prefer the hollow bending cord. It was much more forgiving on bends for me.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I personally prefer the hollow bending cord. It was much more forgiving on bends for me.


+1
I'm a fan of hollow tube rather than rod


----------



## Hefner

Oh, that's unexpected.









To each his own.


----------



## Ovrclck

Anyone using the BP Carbon black c47's?


I kinda dig the carbon black more.


----------



## adodb

which one is most safety? Or there are no different between them?

The fitting is "Bitspower G1/4" Silver Shining Enhance Multi-Link For Acrylic Tube".


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adodb*
> 
> 
> 
> which one is most safety? Or there are no different between them?
> 
> The fitting is "Bitspower G1/4" Silver Shining Enhance Multi-Link For Acrylic Tube".


I would have to think that from a safety (tube coming out of fitting) scenario picture 2 would be safest.
that is based upon that the fittings are facing each other and would be virtually impossible to pop out.
But all the pictured routing opotions will work just as well as each other, depending on your loop and aesthetics / "flow" of the loop you're doing.

Just remember all the entry points to fittings have to be virtually perfect, both angle of entry and length.
no skewiff's are going to work well for for long without leaks.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adodb*
> 
> 
> 
> which one is most safety? Or there are no different between them?
> 
> The fitting is "Bitspower G1/4" Silver Shining Enhance Multi-Link For Acrylic Tube".


Scenario 3 isn't safe if you use push-in style fittings since the pressure of the pump will push it out over time. It is safe if you use compression fittings though.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *adodb*
> 
> 
> 
> which one is most safety? Or there are no different between them?
> 
> The fitting is "Bitspower G1/4" Silver Shining Enhance Multi-Link For Acrylic Tube".
> 
> 
> 
> Scenario 3 isn't safe if you use push-in style fittings since the pressure of the pump will push it out over time. It is safe if you use compression fittings though.
Click to expand...

Erm...No.



Granted,its not a BP fitting but its single o-ring and the locks are not pulled as the tube is very slightly oversize.
I have done it along with many others,the pump pressure is tiny...7PSI at max pressure is nothing.

However,2 is the best for peace of mind.


----------



## shimeng

Hi Guys,

I am trying to make an acrylic equivalent of this 180 degree connector for my Koolance RP-452X2 Rev 2.0 (the originals are prone to rusting).

Assuming I use 12mm E22 tubing, this would mean I'd have to wrap the heated tube around a cylinder 15mm in diameter for the centerline of both ends to be 27mm apart.

Can such a tight turn be done? Has anyone tried something similar?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Anyone using the BP Carbon black c47's?
> 
> 
> I kinda dig the carbon black more.


The carbon black C47 (red o-ring) seems slightly less shiny than the original C47 (green o-ring).


----------



## Goggle Eye

Beautiful computer and so much detail top shelf very glad to visit your shop. This is one of many systems they have built. Cant wait to see what you end up doing with the CaseLABS M-8.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Ok, Acrylics are done!

Take a look














I also painted my Corsair Light Bar kit. Turned out good!
No one sane person can call that Pink










More info / pics in my build log (also pics of my previous 5-6 mods in this build)
Check it out Here


----------



## OCANADA

I love watercooling.

I got my tubing from a modelbuilding shop. Bending was tricky, but a nice experience.


----------



## OCANADA

Gambi2004, nice bends


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCANADA*
> 
> Gambi2004, nice bends


Cheers ^^
I did those 3 lines with the first half of my acrylic.. I then tried to replicate them to see if I could do even better, but the first ones was the best ones, lol..
and im a first timer at this stuff, I might add. hehe.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Ok, Acrylics are done!
> 
> Take a look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also painted my Corsair Light Bar kit. Turned out good!
> No one sane person can call that Pink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More info / pics in my build log (also pics of my previous 5-6 mods in this build)
> Check it out Here


Yeah looks pretty good.

BTW, What did you ever come up with to use as a bending insert?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yeah looks pretty good.
> 
> BTW, What did you ever come up with to use as a bending insert?


Thanks








I had a real silicon bending insert, but it was slightly too big.. I tried sanding it, I tried lubing it up.. didnt really help.
I ended up putting a piece of string in the end of it and just pull it through, went MUCH easier vs pushing it









The cable I used before was no good


----------



## amatthie

Is there any information as to when US stores will have the monsoon hardline full bending kit back in stock? I think it's been about a month since I've seen them in stock anywhere. I'm assuming Monsoon ran out of stock at their facility. (?)

Thanks


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amatthie*
> 
> Is there any information as to when US stores will have the monsoon hardline bending kit back in stock? I think it's been about a month since I've seen them in stock anywhere. I'm assuming Monsoon ran out of stock at their facility. (?)
> 
> Thanks


This one?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1286&products_id=39835


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Pretty sure amatthie meant the full kit, with the measuring rules & the heatgun & bending cord, etc, in additon to the mandrels, and it has been sold out at all US suppliers for a while now.


----------



## amatthie

Yes I meant the full kit that Unicr0n mentioned.


----------



## Ovrclck

I didn't want to wait either so I just bought the cutting and mandrel kit as I already own a heat gun.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I kinda want the kit but I want to pick out my own heat gun and quality of hardware tools.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I kinda want the kit but I want to pick out my own heat gun and quality of hardware tools.


Mine just came in the mail. The hand saw looks very cheap but it at least it says "Stanley" on the handle









Sent from Note 3


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I kinda want the kit but I want to pick out my own heat gun and quality of hardware tools.


As I've told everyone here, the best deal to get on a heat gun is through Harbor Freight Tools. I got mine for UNDER $10. All they sell are tools of all kinds, and mine has already paid for itself the first time I turned it on. It has two heat settings, and seems to be just as durable as the rest of them out on the market. Don't waste your money buying something because of a name brand. Get something that gets the job done reliably, for the least amount of money.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> As I've told everyone here, the best deal to get on a heat gun is through Harbor Freight Tools. I got mine for UNDER $10. All they sell are tools of all kinds, and mine has already paid for itself the first time I turned it on. It has two heat settings, and seems to be just as durable as the rest of them out on the market. Don't waste your money buying something because of a name brand. Get something that gets the job done reliably, for the least amount of money.
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-watt-dual-temperature-heat-gun-572-1112-96289.html


What about the folks outside the USA??


----------



## Neo Zuko

I realize that it is just a gun that produces heat, but what kind of build quality could a $15 heatgun have? Its hard getting a good meal for that little.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> I realize that it is just a gun that produces heat, but what kind of build quality could a $15 heatgun have? Its hard getting a good meal for that little.


Unless you plan on testing its durability by banging it around, driving over it in your driveway, letting your Rottweiler use it as a chew toy, or letting an slovenly irresponsible neighbor borrow it, there's little chance it'll get destroyed. I must have created at least 50 different acrylic bends within the last two months (mostly mistakes), and the gun hasn't shown any signs of malfunctioning... But you don't have to take my word for it. I was just making a suggestion. If you feel more comfortable paying more money for a name brand that you feel comfortable with, then by all means go for it.

@Jimhans1 - I can't speak for them, but if they want to check out HFT's website and have some tools shipped to their country, they're more than happy to.


----------



## Neo Zuko

In general sometimes good products are cheap. And most times you get what you pay for. Never owned a heatgun before so I don't know for sure which one it is. My idea of quality might be different than another persons for example. I'll google up that model, thanks for the info


----------



## sinnedone

Heat gun is just an overweight hairdryer. There's a heat coil and a blower. The quality comes from you. Now the longevity will depend on its components but c'mon its only ten dollars. I could buy one every year and be happy. ( I do have one already for almost 2 years)


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Heat gun is just an overweight hairdryer. There's a heat coil and a blower. The quality comes from you. *Now the longevity will depend on its components but c'mon its only ten dollars. I could buy one every year and be happy. ( I do have one already for almost 2 years)*


This... And I wouldn't feel as remorseful if it broke a year or two down the road. As long as it got the job done when I needed it to.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

next step is cables.

also, this is the second build ive done with a $15 heat gun. no need for anything more.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Tho I heard you should get a stand with your heatgun to do this nice. MNPCTech said so.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Tho I heard you should get a stand with your heatgun to do this nice. MNPCTech said so.


Not really needed. . I just rest the gun on its back side.

Sent from Note 3


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

You don't need no stand nor a big industrial unit like I saw Bill From MNPCTech using (I think his was a Milwaukee that looked 30 years old if not more). Heatguns typically come with a flat back that's meant to be used for standing the gun in an upright position (if it doesn't don't buy it!). If all you plan to use your heat gun for bending some acrylic, remove a sticker/label, or maybe some shrink some heatshrink every now and then, then most any heatgun will do the job. I would suggest trying to get one that has multiple heat settings &/or a variable heat control.

If you also want to be able to use your heatgun for jobs like stripping paint, etc, where it will need to be ran for extended periods of time, then by all means get a decent brand heatgun.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Get cheapest gun you can find,if it was for work use then spend a little more but a £10 gun and a £100 gun work the same.


----------



## robert1978

when I was bending my tubing the cord I got PPC was hole core, and when I was pushing it through the tube I would twist it as I went. I am surprised that has tried using astroglide lube.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Has anyone tried bending a sheet of acrylic? ...for something like a custom mounting plate for hardware, to create an acrylic wall, or something along those lines. I'm just curious.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I've seen it done to make stands for pumps.


----------



## iScream1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Has anyone tried bending a sheet of acrylic? ...for something like a custom mounting plate for hardware, to create an acrylic wall, or something along those lines. I'm just curious.


You should do a search on youtube for bending acrylic. I've seen videos of industrial sheet bending setups and I'm pretty sure I saw some on heating your acrylic sheet in the oven then bending it over a form.


----------



## ledzepp3

Posted just not too long ago about a bubbling problem with my tubing, which had never happened before even with doing my old routine for bending which never caused bubbling. It's only happening with this pretty big batch (around 5 meters) of E22 tubing, not happening at all with the EK 12mm acrylic I have. I have no idea what's happened


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Posted just not too long ago about a bubbling problem with my tubing, which had never happened before even with doing my old routine for bending which never caused bubbling. It's only happening with this pretty big batch (around 5 meters) of E22 tubing, not happening at all with the EK 12mm acrylic I have. I have no idea what's happened


Yo Zepp, just remember that like every other manufactured product, there can and will be batch to batch differences. Part of the quality of a product in my eyes is how consistent they are from batch to batch. Try to remove as many variables as possible also if you can.


----------



## robert1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Has anyone tried bending a sheet of acrylic? ...for something like a custom mounting plate for hardware, to create an acrylic wall, or something along those lines. I'm just curious.


I have done it before. The process is about the same as bending tubing. I used gloves so my fingers didn't get burned, and layed the acrylic on a flat surface and started heating it, moving slowly along the place I wanted to bend. I did find it hard to get a perfect 90. When I made my bend it was a 90 but if you looked closely at it you could see that there was a rounding of the comer. I think that I ended up wasting about a 5inx5in piece before I had the hang of it.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have done one a while ago,look for acrylic sheet bending 101


----------



## robert1978

I think that I saw your B Negative. Its really not that hard. Well I didn't think it was.


----------



## TurboMach1

anyone used the 3/8 ID primochill tube and had trouble with the hollow silicone they send with it? i cant seem to make a bend that doesnt kink or flatten on the radius because the tube seems slightly too small and collapses too easily while bending. any solid alternatives that work better?


----------



## lowfat

If the bend is kinking of flattening the tubing likely isn't hot enough. Not the bending cords fault.


----------



## TurboMach1

its gets hot enough, but it seems to cool down before i can get the chance to bend it around something, and another problem it seems to have is when im heating it (and no im not too close as ive tried different distances) the area im heating seems like it swells up when it gets to the point of being able to bend. bought the monsoon mandrel kit for bending and when the tube is cold it fits in them loosely but when its hot its too swollen to fit into the radius of the mandrel.


----------



## lowfat

Did you watch all the bending videos that Monsoon released? The tubing shouldn't swell up at all.

Finally doing the acrylic for my ESXi server. Did the second super long run. Ended up cracking my first run in the process.









http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-2-4.jpg.html

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/FT02/export-3-4.jpg.html


----------



## TurboMach1

i watched primochills video and monsoons. gonna give it another go now.

edit: this is what it looks like after bending, im going to order some solid buna n cord from mcmaster, im convinced this hollow hose is the issue, it seems way too soft to prevent flattening.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboMach1*
> 
> i watched primochills video and monsoons. gonna give it another go now.
> 
> edit: this is what it looks like after bending, im going to order some solid buna n cord from mcmaster, im convinced this hollow hose is the issue, it seems way too soft to prevent flattening.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image


I got the 9mm cord from McMaster Carr because of the issues I was having just trying to insert the Primochill cord. It didn't want to fit. But the pieces I've had flatten out I'm pretty sure was because I wasn't heating it long/slow enough or anywhere near a wide enough area on each side of the bend. I also was heating it up a little too quickly at first that might have contributed.

Once I started heating it much more slowly over an area at least 10-12cm (~4") to the point it's all totally flimsy/rubbery like a spaghetti noodle (usually I heat it to where I think it's enough and then I'll keep heating it for 30 seconds or so longer than that just to be sure) it got a lot easier to produce a perfect bend. It's also important to lightly 'pull' the tube around the former like you are trying to stretch the outside radius around the bend as opposed to just trying to bend the tube.


----------



## audioholic

Perhaps you are not heating it enough? I only had one kink while free handing. Now I made a temporary jig using some wood and the end caps of the cardboard tube he tubing came in. Seems to give a decent bend and it was free







just wondering if that is to small of a bend?


----------



## robert1978

When I was working on my tubing I used the hollow cord in the tubing and didn't have that problem. Maybe your not heating a big enough area of the pipe to do the bend.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

you guys are doing great job with bending those acrylics


----------



## lowfat

Hollow tube definitely isn't the issue. The hollow tube is IMHO much better than the solid one. It is much more forgiving on the bends. Try using the heatgun at a lower setting and heat for longer. Also heat a wider patch of tubing.


----------



## Hefner

My experience has been quite the opposite. With the hollow primochill bending cord my bends ended up flattening all the time until I started using the solid bending cord from the EK kit. But then again, I'm working extreme SFF so my bends needs to be more tight than average.

Experiment & practice to find out whatever works best for you as it seems to be a preference matter.


----------



## lowfat

Finished off the plumbing for the server.


----------



## robert1978

Looks great. Nice job!!..


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> My experience has been quite the opposite. With the hollow primochill bending cord my bends ended up flattening all the time until I started using the solid bending cord from the EK kit. But then again, I'm working extreme SFF so my bends needs to be more tight than average.
> 
> Experiment & practice to find out whatever works best for you as it seems to be a preference matter.


i
have the same experience..the hollow tube seem to flatten when bending vs when you use solid bending cord it always seem to come nicely!!


----------



## Neo Zuko

Bend it like Korra


----------



## audioholic

My res seems crooked now that I have that connected. Probably a lot of force hooking up the pump at the bottom to the rad..hopefully I can tweak it enough to make it straight otherwise it will drive me nuts.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> My res seems crooked now that I have that connected. Probably a lot of force hooking up the pump at the bottom to the rad..hopefully I can tweak it enough to make it straight otherwise it will drive me nuts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Whats that white lining the inside the radiator? LED strip?


----------



## audioholic

It was painted white when I bought it..painted it black just didn't get in that far. It will be covered with fans anyway


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> My res seems crooked now that I have that connected. Probably a lot of force hooking up the pump at the bottom to the rad..hopefully I can tweak it enough to make it straight otherwise it will drive me nuts.


What a great idea to use foamcore board to mock up your midplate. It's a lot stiffer than the average cardboard I used for mine. And more precise under a blade too.


----------



## audioholic

Yea it's really easy to work with. Eventually it will be replaced with a smoked acrylic panel. At least that is the plan. The sides ll also be covered to hide all the wiring and pump etc


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *audioholic*
> 
> My res seems crooked now that I have that connected. Probably a lot of force hooking up the pump at the bottom to the rad..hopefully I can tweak it enough to make it straight otherwise it will drive me nuts.


Welcome to OCN (Obsessive Compulsive's Network)


----------



## TurboMach1

so to update my dilemma, i ordered a bunch of different types of cord stock from mcmaster, ordered 3ft lengths of 9mm buna-n 50A hardness, 3/8 soft buna-n, 3/8 hard buna-n, 3/8 neoprene, 3/8 silicone.

the best result were had from the silicone (mcmaster p/n 96505K27). the 9mm is too thin for primochill tubing, it fits a bit loose but doesnt flatten anywhere near as bad as the hollow did. the 3/8 hard buna-n was significantly too large to fit in the tubing for some reason, even though its spec'd to be the same diameter as the other 3/8 cords that fit nice and snug.

so if anyone has an issue with bending the primochill 3/8 ID acrylic order some of the silicone 3/8 cord stock, its 1.67 a foot, and works perfectly.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I am sooooo glad I'm done with all my bending. Part of me wants to experiment and perfect the process, but I think I've done enough damage to my wallet... In fact, I've used one of my "abominations" as a silly stray for my beverage cup. My kids think it's funny because we can all laugh at how funny our straws are... I'm just glad they get so much enjoyment out of my (acrylic bending) failure.









Oh and if you must know, the E22 makes for a great manly straw for those that take big gulps out of their beverages.


----------



## GaMbi2004

@TurboMach1 I had same problem with my silicon cord, it was too big.
A trick I used, is to put a sting through the end of the "slightly too big" cord, feed the sting through the pipe and pull the silicon cord through it.. MUCH easier that pushing it through









Just make sure the tube edges are fairly smooth, if you scratch the silicon cord, the scratches will be embedded in the molten acrylic


----------



## iamkraine

I love acrylic.


----------



## Brian18741

Beautiful work man!


----------



## Hasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> I love acrylic.


This is art.

One of the best acrylic tubing work I've seen

Love it.


----------



## Hefner

Compact splash build


----------



## Hasty

Sexy!

I love pastel ice white/ice dragon in acrylic. Especially when there is a dark background so that the white catch the eye.


----------



## Roikyou

Curious if there are any fumes while bending, do people bend in a garage, wide open space or just in a spare room such as computer room?


----------



## GaMbi2004

No fumes








you can heat / bend anywhere you like. Inside is preferred since winds outside may cool the tubing prematurely.
I used the monsoon pipes that requires some gluing, witch MIGHT be best to in a ventilated space, but normal bending does not require this









Hope that is answer enough.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> No fumes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can heat / bend anywhere you like. Inside is preferred since winds outside may cool the tubing prematurely.
> I used the monsoon pipes that requires some gluing, witch MIGHT be best to in a ventilated space, but normal bending does not require this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that is answer enough.


It does, moving to caselabs, whole new radiators, just jumping off the deep end and figure while drowning, might as well do acrylic...

And I live in a two bedroom apt where the wife would flip if I stunk the place up...

I could stick a fan in the window pulling the air out just to keep it ventilated but I wanted to make sure.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> It does, moving to caselabs, whole new radiators, just jumping off the deep end and figure while drowning, might as well do acrylic...
> 
> And I live in a two bedroom apt where the wife would flip if I stunk the place up...
> 
> I could stick a fan in the window pulling the air out just to keep it ventilated but I wanted to make sure.


youre good duder. it makes no smell at all. most annoying thing about it is how loud the heat gun is. my old lady got a little angry cause i was interrupting Real Houseskanks of Golddiggertown........


----------



## Roikyou

Looking to pick these two up from McMaster, can someone confirm the numbers are correct (confident the acrylic is correct, not sure the silicone)

8532K13 UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, 6' Length, Clear

9808K23 FDA-Compliant Silicone Rubber, Cord, 3/8" Diameter, 36" Length, 40A Durometer

Thanks


----------



## TurboMach1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Looking to pick these two up from McMaster, can someone confirm the numbers are correct (confident the acrylic is correct, not sure the silicone)
> 
> 8532K13 UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, 6' Length, Clear
> 
> 9808K23 FDA-Compliant Silicone Rubber, Cord, 3/8" Diameter, 36" Length, 40A Durometer
> 
> Thanks


the 3/8 diameter cords dont fit inside the mcmaster acrylic. ive got 6 feet of it here to practice with and the only one that fits is the 9mm stuff, its a little loose but it will work ok. you MIGHT be able to fit the 3/8 stuff in it if you lube it with olive oil or soapy water, or maybe some sanding, but i can only get it in about an inch before it wont go any further.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Looking to pick these two up from McMaster, can someone confirm the numbers are correct (confident the acrylic is correct, not sure the silicone)
> 
> 8532K13 UV-Resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID, 6' Length, Clear
> 
> 9808K23 FDA-Compliant Silicone Rubber, Cord, 3/8" Diameter, 36" Length, 40A Durometer
> 
> Thanks


The 3/8" silicon cord only works for the 10mm ID metric sized tubing.

For the 3/8" ID imperial sized tubing, you need the 9mm buna-N, O-ring cord stock.

Darlene


----------



## Roikyou

Thanks Darlene

Has anyone needed more than a three foot piece of acrylic for a bend?

Asking because of course mcmasters has 6 ft lengths of clear tubing or if you want color, you go with primochill at 3 ft lengths.

Of course another benefit of mcmasters is the price. The downfall of 6ft is you would have to thread the 9mm cord in quite a ways depending on your bend. This is all speculation on my side for my upcoming build.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Thanks Darlene
> 
> Has anyone needed more than a three foot piece of acrylic for a bend?
> 
> Asking because of course mcmasters has 6 ft lengths of clear tubing or if you want color, you go with primochill at 3 ft lengths.
> 
> Of course another benefit of mcmasters is the price. The downfall of 6ft is you would have to thread the 9mm cord in quite a ways depending on your bend. This is all speculation on my side for my upcoming build.


Just depends on the routes you are running. Just look at your case and its easy to know the maximum length of tubing you should need.


----------



## Roikyou

I'm just thinking too far ahead but also thinking about which products to buy also. Would hate to get 3ft lengths and end up needing longer, then I'd be up the creek. Going to be routing a TH10 with two 480 80mm and one 360 60mm. Just trying to get everything lined up before I start the build.


----------



## lowfat

It is very unlikely you'd need more than 3 feet lengths. Out of the 4 rigs I've done I've only needed one 3 foot tube. The rest were done w/ 2 feet.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Thanks Darlene
> 
> Has anyone needed more than a three foot piece of acrylic for a bend?
> 
> Asking because of course mcmasters has 6 ft lengths of clear tubing or if you want color, you go with primochill at 3 ft lengths.
> 
> Of course another benefit of mcmasters is the price. The downfall of 6ft is you would have to thread the 9mm cord in quite a ways depending on your bend. This is all speculation on my side for my upcoming build.


i bought 4 6 foot lengths for my last build. turned out much better than the one i did with primochill tube. i used 1 tube out of them lol. i have so much left over.


----------



## iamkraine

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimlaheysadrunk*
> 
> i bought 4 6 foot lengths for my last build. turned out much better than the one i did with primochill tube. i used 1 tube out of them lol. i have so much left over.






Is that bottom run actually touching the PSU?


----------



## TurboMach1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I'm just thinking too far ahead but also thinking about which products to buy also. Would hate to get 3ft lengths and end up needing longer, then I'd be up the creek. Going to be routing a TH10 with two 480 80mm and one 360 60mm. Just trying to get everything lined up before I start the build.


with such a big case i would at least buy the mcmaster stuff to pracitce run with until you feel confident, i wasted 6 ft of primochill UV blue before i got my first useable bend. primochill is $2.50/foot for the colored stuff if you buy the 4-24" packs and $3.30/ft in the 3ft lengths.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboMach1*
> 
> with such a big case i would at least buy the mcmaster stuff to pracitce run with until you feel confident, i wasted 6 ft of primochill UV blue before i got my first useable bend. primochill is $2.50/foot for the colored stuff if you buy the 4-24" packs and $3.30/ft in the 3ft lengths.


I'm really agreeing with you, clear gives you more options for different color fluids plus cost is a big advantage, plus extra to practice with as you mentioned.

Going to start with 12 ft and see what happens...


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The 3/8" silicon cord only works for the 10mm ID metric sized tubing.
> 
> For the 3/8" ID imperial sized tubing, you need the 9mm buna-N, O-ring cord stock.
> 
> Darlene


Found it

9679K27 Metric Buna-N O-Ring Cord Stock, 9.0mm Nominal Width, .354" Actual Width, 3 ft. Length

Thanks Darlene

(sorry, should have edited my last post...)


----------



## Neo Zuko

Putting together an order for McMaster now, what size tubing should I get?


----------



## TurboMach1

ive always used 3/8 ID. you lose pressure with larger ID tube. i havent tried using the 1/2" ID acrylic but from watching videos it looks to bend easier then the smaller 3/8 ID stuff, when i say easier to bend i mean easier to get a nice smooth radius on the bend with no kinking/flattening.


----------



## TurboMach1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I'm really agreeing with you, clear gives you more options for different color fluids plus cost is a big advantage, plus extra to practice with as you mentioned.
> 
> Going to start with 12 ft and see what happens...


the primochill UV blue tube is actually clear when not under UV light ( a slight blue tint) which is why i went with that so i could get the UV effect with some cathodes and also have a colored coolant for when the UV isnt on incase thats something youre looking for. also the mcmaster stuff seems to bend a bit easier then primochill, but be warned they ship the tubes in 6ft lengths unwrapped in a cardboard tube, and they will have tons of micro scratching from transport/storage.


----------



## lowfat

Tubing size has no impact on performance. Just buy whatever you find aesthetically pleasing.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboMach1*
> 
> the primochill UV blue tube is actually clear when not under UV light ( a slight blue tint) which is why i went with that so i could get the UV effect with some cathodes and also have a colored coolant for when the UV isnt on incase thats something youre looking for. also the mcmaster stuff seems to bend a bit easier then primochill, but be warned they ship the tubes in 6ft lengths unwrapped in a cardboard tube, and they will have tons of micro scratching from transport/storage.


Was the micro scratches acceptable, do they really stand out when the product is finished or anything to take the scratches out, curious your thoughts or how you handled it.

Thanks


----------



## Neo Zuko

OK so I can eliminate the two larger sizes as I value clearance and don't wan't a huge ID for any reason. However that still leaves 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD vs 3/8' ID x 5/8" OD. The first compression fitting size can fit a tube that has a 1/16" wall thickness, the latter can fit a tube that has a 1/8" wall thickness. Which tube thickness is easier to achieve perfect bends?


----------



## TurboMach1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> OK so I can eliminate the two larger sizes as I value clearance. However that still leaves 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD vs 3/8' ID x 5/8" OD. The first compression fitting size can fit a tube that has a 1/16" wall thickness, the latter can fit a tube that has a 1/8" wall thickness. Which tube thickness is easier to achieve perfect bends?


those fittings you posted are tubing fittings, not acrylic. acrylic only comes in 3/8x1/2 or 1/2x5/8 or metric sizes


----------



## Neo Zuko

My mistake. I just got confused for a spell. Somehow the Monsoons can share compression fitting tops with soft and hard lines in some sizes so I got confused. Something about only the barbs are different.


----------



## TurboMach1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Was the micro scratches acceptable, do they really stand out when the product is finished or anything to take the scratches out, curious your thoughts or how you handled it.
> 
> Thanks


its a pretty significant amount of (light) scuffing but im not sure how noticeable it is with colered coolant running through it. i didnt use that stuff in my build but the primochill stuff did get scratched from handling during the bending process, and i havent looked into how to clean it up, i do have the novus acrylic cleaning kit that i bought for my torture rack i might try to see if that works.

i dont have a camera good enough to take a picuture of it unfortunately


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboMach1*
> 
> its a pretty significant amount of (light) scuffing but im not sure how noticeable it is with colered coolant running through it. i didnt use that stuff in my build but the primochill stuff did get scratched from handling during the bending process, and i havent looked into how to clean it up, i do have the novus acrylic cleaning kit that i bought for my torture rack i might try to see if that works.
> 
> i dont have a camera good enough to take a picuture of it unfortunately


A lot of acrylic and plastic clearner, scratch removal out there, wonder how they work

http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395352409&sr=8-1&keywords=acrylic+scratch+remover


----------



## TurboMach1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> A lot of acrylic and plastic clearner, scratch removal out there, wonder how they work
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/NOVUS-7100-Plastic-Polish-Kit/dp/B002UCYRZU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395352409&sr=8-1&keywords=acrylic+scratch+remover


well i just did a section of it with my NOVUS kit and it does take out the scratching, so you should be ok if you buy that kit.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboMach1*
> 
> well i just did a section of it with my NOVUS kit and it does take out the scratching, so you should be ok if you buy that kit.


Very cool, thanks for testing that and letting me know.


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> 
> Is that bottom run actually touching the PSU?


nope, its about 2mm off lol. i wasnt planning on using that pump and drain config, and thats the best layout i could get using it.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Putting the finishing touches on my order. Here is an odd question: How much McMaster 9679K27 9mm buna-N, O-ring cord stock do I need and in what length?


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Putting the finishing touches on my order. Here is an odd question: How much McMaster 9679K27 9mm buna-N, O-ring cord stock do I need and in what length?


My thoughts are if were not running greater than 3 ft lengths of acrylic, 3ft would be the max. I know I ordered 3 ft but doesn't mean much as I have yet to bend... Plus could you imagine threading more than or even three feet through the tubing?

Also, the options are 3ft, 10ft and on... (lied, there is an "other")


----------



## Neo Zuko

Well I was thinking more that it could wear out after so many bends. Does anyone know how long this stuff generally lasts?


----------



## dropxo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Putting the finishing touches on my order. Here is an odd question: How much McMaster 9679K27 9mm buna-N, O-ring cord stock do I need and in what length?


I wouldn't think as much as 3 feet, but it depends on where your bends are, for mine, the bends were at each end of the tube, with reasonable space (straight sections between) so the bending cord only had to go from one end inside just past the bend by maybe 50mm. 50cm was plenty for me.


----------



## mrinfinit3

What's the diff. (besides strength) between 9245K21 and 8532K13.?
I'm asking more towards "working" differences (installation,bend-ability, clarity, ect) between the 2.


----------



## Neo Zuko

http://www.plasticsmachining.com/magazine/199802/petg.html is a very illuminating link on the differences between PETG and Acrylic. I'm not even sure which I like more anymore. Both have pros and cons worth consideration.

PETG is about twice as expensive as I listed 36 feet for both in my order cart (PETG is priced per foot, the extruded acrylic is priced per 6 foot length).


----------



## IT Diva

Nice find on that article . . . .









This is probably the salient "Take Away Point" in the article . . .

" Beavers also noted that PET and PETG are not inherently UV-stable, meaning they will yellow and embrittle when exposed to the sun for long periods of time. "

I would take that as an admonition that PETG would not be the best choice of tubing if you have UV cathodes / coolant..

Darlene


----------



## Neo Zuko

That takeaway is my primary concern too. However the real answer would also heavily depend on what time frame we are talking about. If it lasts a safe 5 years like the yellowing on an SNES, then that's longer than the life of my PC build. That said I'll likely try both out at one point or another.


----------



## Roikyou

Just something I wanted to acknowledge or let people know, shipping with McMaster is kind of spendy, probably due to the oversize, being 6 ft long. Shipping was twice the price of 12ft of acrylic. Still cheaper than Primochill but I would suggest to make sure you get what you need to make your shipping worth it. Spend 10 bucks, pay 20 shipping but it's all good, it's a learning process.

(fyi..no shipping quote till after your purchase...)


----------



## Dankal

delete


----------



## Brian18741

Dude ......... dang


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TurboMach1*
> 
> the primochill UV blue tube is actually clear when not under UV light ( a slight blue tint) which is why i went with that so i could get the UV effect with some cathodes and also have a colored coolant for when the UV isnt on incase thats something youre looking for. also the mcmaster stuff seems to bend a bit easier then primochill, but be warned they ship the tubes in 6ft lengths unwrapped in a cardboard tube, and they will have tons of micro scratching from transport/storage.
> 
> 
> 
> Was the micro scratches acceptable, do they really stand out when the product is finished or anything to take the scratches out, curious your thoughts or how you handled it.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

You can flame polish them or go with polishing compound.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Nice find on that article . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is probably the salient "Take Away Point" in the article . . .
> 
> " Beavers also noted that PET and PETG are not inherently UV-stable, meaning they will yellow and embrittle when exposed to the sun for long periods of time. "
> 
> I would take that as an admonition that PETG would not be the best choice of tubing if you have UV cathodes / coolant..
> 
> Darlene


Even a window in the case near a sunny window wouldnt be advisable.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Even a window in the case near a sunny window wouldnt be advisable.


That said, it defeats every single plausible purpose for having it, aside from bragging rights. Why use it inside a windowed case if it gradually yellows over time due to solar exposure, and why over compensate with the strength of the PETG inside of a build that's going to be in a stationary location once the project is complete...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That said, it defeats every single plausible purpose for having it, aside from bragging rights. Why use it inside a windowed case if it gradually yellows over time due to solar exposure, and why over compensate with the strength of the PETG inside of a build that's going to be in a stationary location once the project is complete...


I agree completely, I even said as much a week ago.......


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That said, it defeats every single plausible purpose for having it, aside from bragging rights. Why use it inside a windowed case if it gradually yellows over time due to solar exposure, and why over compensate with the strength of the PETG inside of a build that's going to be in a stationary location once the project is complete...
> 
> 
> 
> I agree completely, I even said as much a week ago.......
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Even a window in the case near a sunny window wouldnt be advisable.
> 
> 
> 
> That said, it defeats every single plausible purpose for having it, aside from bragging rights. Why use it inside a windowed case if it gradually yellows over time due to solar exposure, and why over compensate with the strength of the PETG inside of a build that's going to be in a stationary location once the project is complete...
Click to expand...

MNPC like to jump on bandwagons.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Which is why in the end I decided on acrylic. The yellowing of PETG plus the cheaper cost of acrylic. More so on the yellowing. I decided I can't take that chance and I want lots of lights.


----------



## NASzi

so here's my 2nd attempt at hard tubing, I used this stuff insead of the primochill acrylic and gosh was it 100 times easier to work with

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3587/=qis574 9245K21

This stuff was easy to cut and was pliable after 20 seconds under a heatgun unlike the 2-3 minutes for the acrylic

I learned alot from my last time bending tubing, the main thing being "just wing it", there's really no need for a tape measure, just have a few feet of extra tubing laying around, be careful when you're cutting your lengths to make sure you don't cut too much off (had to re-bend 1 piece because I cut it too short after I bent it) This was done completely by eyesight, I used my dinner table as a square to bend the 90's.



http://minus.com/i/beACzpBXlwvq3

http://minus.com/i/mYTaukFRrPY0

http://minus.com/i/bnDRp8Ai0FP8R


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Curious if there are any fumes while bending, do people bend in a garage, wide open space or just in a spare room such as computer room?


No fumes, I did everything in my kitchen, just put a towel on the table to catch the shavings from cutting/sanding the tubing ends.


----------



## Ovrclck

Just read the entire thread. Learned a lot! My brain is officially fried.
















I purchased 500cm of E22 which should be here Friday. I'll buy some cheap tubing to practice from mcmaster 8532K13. Thanks guys!


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Just read the entire thread. Learned a lot! My brain is officially fried.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased 500cm of E22 which should be here Friday. I'll buy some cheap tubing to practice from mcmaster 8532K13. Thanks guys!


You are really going to enjoy the process. I'm glad you decided to take the plunge, I'm sure its going to look great.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Do most bend free hand or do most use a tool like the Monsoon products?


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Do most bend free hand or do most use a tool like the Monsoon products?


I tend to actually do about 50/50, some bends are just too tight for the mandrel kit, but for the most part the mandrels do great!


----------



## charliebrown

ok so i bought some acrylic from mcmaster after seeing bill owen use it is this better or the same as primochill


----------



## GunfighterAK

My first water cooled system, used primochill acrylic bending kit and its terrible in my opinion.
Acrylic definitely requires quite a bit of practice and write offs.
If you look closely the bends are little bit flat since the kit comes with a hollow rubber insert and I couldn't find a solid insert anywhere here in South Africa.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Still, it's quite impressive, given your circumstances and lack of proper materials.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Zuko*
> 
> Do most bend free hand or do most use a tool like the Monsoon products?


Use a mandrel every time.


----------



## Neo Zuko

Since it will take me a while to afford my ultra watercooled build, I'm going to practice hardlines on the H220X. I just need a few fittings and some hardline basics.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Use a mandrel every time.


I do both. Freehanded bends give me more control over the shapes I'm molding.


----------



## gdubc

Monsoons economy fittings are up on *Performance-PCs*


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Monsoons economy fittings are up on *Performance-PCs*


I really like the look of those matte black ones. Shame about the microbial silver though. Not sure I want to go there.


----------



## gdubc

I hear that. I already did though so I have no choice now. I got some chain guns and the regulars for 3 different builds right as they switched to the silver. I got too many from too many places to mess with returning them. I plan on using ekoolant in 2 pcs and mayhems in the other so hopefully those inhibitors do their job right, because all my blocks are nickel, lol.
I also picked up some acrylic tube for practicing from a custom plastics place about 30 minutes from my house. I paid $4 for 6ft lengths so not too bad. Grabbed some Novus polishes while I was there so now I am good to go!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Monsoons economy fittings are up on *Performance-PCs*
> 
> 
> 
> I really like the look of those matte black ones. Shame about the microbial silver though. Not sure I want to go there.
Click to expand...

I'm out of the loop... can you elaborate?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm out of the loop... can you elaborate?


All the new Monsoon fittings, and even new versions of their previous fittings, now have barbs or bases made with antimicrobial silver.

There's been some thought for some time that silver does not play well with nickel. EK used to frown on silver used with any of their nickel blocks (though they have since abandoned that stance), and Koolance still says any silver with any of their nickel products voids the warranty on them. That, and Martin generally discourages the use of silver with nickel, especially if they come into direct contact, which would be the case if a monsoon fitting was screwed into a nickel block.

Personally, I just prefer to run distilled plus Nuke in my loop, and just don't really want to add silver which just further increases the galvanic potential in a loop that otherwise is mostly copper, nickel, and brass.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> My first water cooled system, used primochill acrylic bending kit and its terrible in my opinion.
> Acrylic definitely requires quite a bit of practice and write offs.
> If you look closely the bends are little bit flat since the kit comes with a hollow rubber insert and I couldn't find a solid insert anywhere here in South Africa.
> 
> [
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> IMG ALT=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1953003/width/350/height/700[/IMG]


Acrylic is old news man, it takes to long to heat up and it's a pain to work with, shoulda tried THIS stuff

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3587/=qis574

Part # 9245K21

My rig with this tubing



Looks exactly the same as the acrylic except it bends & cuts easier.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Acrylic is old news man, it takes to long to heat up and it's a pain to work with, shoulda tried THIS stuff
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3587/=qis574
> 
> Part # 9245K21
> 
> My rig with this tubing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks exactly the same as the acrylic except it bends & cuts easier.


And there has been a decent amount of discussion about it in this thread about how PETG is not UV resistant - so unlike acrylic is prone to yellowing and may become more brittle over time - and how it's hydroscopic so may be prone to staining and leeching (plasticizer type issues) like flexible tubing, and ... I think the jury is still out on whether PETG is a suitable replacement for acrylic or not. May be. Maybe not.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Acrylic is old news man, it takes to long to heat up and it's a pain to work with, shoulda tried THIS stuff
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/120/3587/=qis574
> 
> Part # 9245K21
> 
> My rig with this tubing
> 
> 
> 
> Looks exactly the same as the acrylic except it bends & cuts easier.


Show me a place that sells it in SA and I'll get it. Reason for me getting acrylic is because I was buying all my WC parts from one shop to reduce my delivery costs. Delivery from US to SA is far from cheap.


----------



## Roikyou

What are people using to cut acrylic tubing? Been searching but no luck so far. Is there a specific tpi saw to use or?


----------



## Ovrclck

Glad I went with E22


----------



## Neo Zuko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm out of the loop... can you elaborate?


The barbed bases on the Monsoon fittings use silver plating. That's the half the reason I'm switching to Bitspower Enhanced Multi-Links. The other half is looks. Monsoon swears silver is good for your loop, perhaps they are right, but now that I have another option that I like more (and I'm using X1) I can't afford to know if they are right.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> And there has been a decent amount of discussion about it in this thread about how PETG is not UV resistant - so unlike acrylic is prone to yellowing and may become more brittle over time - and how it's hydroscopic so may be prone to staining and leeching (plasticizer type issues) like flexible tubing, and ... I think the jury is still out on whether PETG is a suitable replacement for acrylic or not. May be. Maybe not.


Gotcha. Wasn't even aware of these issues. I have no problems being a guinea pig. I love tearing down my rig and working on it. been running this PETG tubing for a few weeks now with no issues. I'll be sure to provide an update in a few months or next time I tear down my loop which will probably be soon. I bought another SSD to add to Gaming Raid Array and my SSD's are mounted under my PSU covers so I have to drain and dismantle my entire loop to be able to get to them lol

And thanks for mentioning the pricing of the two, just went to McMaster carr's website and saw that the Acrylic 8532K13 is $3.69 for 6 ft (.615/ft) and the PETG 9245K21 is $6.84 for 6 ft (1.14/ft). Primochill is charging $2.12 per foot (WOW) for acrylic

Anyhow lol the PETG was much easier to work with but i'm guessing i'll be buying acrylic again


----------



## NASzi

double post please delete


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> My rig with this tubing


I'm not a huge fan of all white cases, but I like this... The only thing I'd change is the fan blade to black.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> What are people using to cut acrylic tubing? Been searching but no luck so far. Is there a specific tpi saw to use or?


You can use MANY many different tools







a sharp knife marking around and snapping the tube is even possible.
A jewelers saw or any other fine teethed saw will work fine, I personally used my Dremel








Just make sure to use sand paper to straighten the cutting point. (I used my Dremel for this too, hehe)

Tubing is easy to cut, if you where to cut a longer sheet of acrylic, you would need a special cutting blade so you wont burn the acrylic, but tubes doesnt need that.


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> I'm not a huge fan of all white cases, but I like this... The only thing I'd change is the fan blade to black.


Thanks for the compliment, here's my entire setup


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NASzi*
> 
> Thanks for the compliment, here's my entire setup


That's just how I like my setups too. Neat and functional.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well my Monsoon Kit's complete finally after my Mandrel Kit arrived today. Time to scroll back a ton of pages for ideas. I've been staring at my mobo blankly trying to plan it out.

This is the before pic. Hopefully the after pic looks good. Just gonna link up this whole area with C47's & E22. Probly gonna do the rest of my loop in 16mm.



I bought a crap-load of BP F/F 90's and various other rotaries and angles last week when the mandrel's were still sold out. I want all vertical and horizontal lines, so i'm considering bending so the ports can be vertical/horizontal to each other, then using the F/F 90's for linking the ports (if anybody understands what i'm trying to say lol). Don't know if it'll look stupid like that tho.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> What are people using to cut acrylic tubing? Been searching but no luck so far. Is there a specific tpi saw to use or?


I just use the saw that comes in the Monsson kit. Works fine, you're always going to have to sand down the end and typically need to chamfer it a bit to fit fittings, but that's part of life.


----------



## Krusher33

I use a mini-hacksaw bought from Harbor Freight.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I just use the saw that comes in the Monsson kit. Works fine, you're always going to have to sand down the end and typically need to chamfer it a bit to fit fittings, but that's part of life.


I ended up going to home depot as harbor freight is not too impressive in my neighborhood. I picked up a 24 tpi with 32 tpi replacements, 24 seems to cut okay but going to use the 32 replacements just for a smoother cut. I did get some fine grade sand paper, forgot the count.

Side note, I've went through six feet of acrylic and maybe one good bend so far, I'm very picky and doing this by hand is tough. I've got the rig up with flex tube and though about since I don't want my computer down for a long amount of time as this is my only one, replace a piece or two at a time, which would mean draining and filling up, thinking about just distilled till I get the final piece then do the additive. Probably over a couple week span.

Curious, since this acrylic from McMaster's is UV resistant, wouldn't it be counter productive to use UV reactive fluids? Guess what should happen is a low amount of UV should go through the acrylic making UV fluid not worth it.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

well guys found an interesting video for those lovers of acrylics tubing but want bigger size 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID Hard acrylic.. the guys from mod zoo came up with a solution
it's very interesting, take a look.


----------



## Roikyou

Since I'm going to be making a lot of changes trying to move to acrylic, I've got distilled water as flushing the system might be a common thing in the next couple weeks. Besides silver kill coil, what's everyone using in an acrylic loop fluid wise?

Did a quick check of the blocks and radiators, everything is Acetel, Nickel and Copper.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Since I'm going to be making a lot of changes trying to move to acrylic, I've got distilled water as flushing the system might be a common thing in the next couple weeks. Besides silver kill coil, what's everyone using in an acrylic loop fluid wise?


Mayhem's pastel or X1. Silver kill coil not needed.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Mayhem's pastel or X1. Silver kill coil not needed.


The silver kill coil was from when I was doing flex tube, actually not using it right now. I asked this redundant question as it's out there, but you always see a thread that includes something like "use this unless acrylic". So, this was a safe better than sorry question.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> The silver kill coil was from when I was doing flex tube, actually not using it right now. I asked this redundant question as it's out there, but you always see a thread that includes something like "use this unless acrylic". So, this was a safe better than sorry question.


No worries! You can still use silver coil if just going with plain distilled.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> No worries! You can still use silver coil if just going with plain distilled.


Silver doesn't give the anti corrosive protection the Mayhems gives if you running just distilled with silver kill coil is what I'm understanding.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Silver doesn't give the anti corrosive protection the Mayhems gives if you running just distilled with silver kill coil is what I'm understanding.


Yeah. Before going to acrylic. I was just using distilled + coil + LRT tubing. Still had nasty oxidization from the silver.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> well guys found an interesting video for those lovers of acrylics tubing but want bigger size 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID Hard acrylic.. the guys from mod zoo came up with a solution
> it's very interesting, take a look.


Nice idea, thanks for sharing it. These big tubes would really bright inside a huge case, I think.


----------



## Ovrclck

Way too fat for me. Yes, and she did say that


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I just use the saw that comes in the Monsson kit. Works fine, you're always going to have to sand down the end and typically need to chamfer it a bit to fit fittings, but that's part of life.
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up going to home depot as harbor freight is not too impressive in my neighborhood. I picked up a 24 tpi with 32 tpi replacements, 24 seems to cut okay but going to use the 32 replacements just for a smoother cut. I did get some fine grade sand paper, forgot the count.
> 
> Side note, I've went through six feet of acrylic and maybe one good bend so far, I'm very picky and doing this by hand is tough. I've got the rig up with flex tube and though about since I don't want my computer down for a long amount of time as this is my only one, replace a piece or two at a time, which would mean draining and filling up, thinking about just distilled till I get the final piece then do the additive. Probably over a couple week span.
> 
> Curious, since this acrylic from McMaster's is UV resistant, wouldn't it be counter productive to use UV reactive fluids? Guess what should happen is a low amount of UV should go through the acrylic making UV fluid not worth it.
Click to expand...

The thing about the Monsoon kit, is that it was made FOR acrylic tubing. It isn't re-purposed. I went through about 4 feet of acrylic in just testing bends, heating properly, etc, but the mandrels do exactly what they were designed to do, and the included saw with miter box is incredibly handy to cut down the acrylic. Then it comes with a pipe reamer that allows you to not only chamfer the inside of the pipe, but the outside as well. There's definitely a learning curve, but if you watch the videos in the OP that BNeg linked to, and follow his instructions, everything becomes much simpler.

I've been using E-22 tubing with Bitspower's new Acrylic/Hard fittings because it's a much smaller ID/OD than anything in the US. Using large fittings and tubing on an Impact board was definitely a no-go. So far, no issues.

I dunno about McMaster's tubing, haven't worked with it, but then again, I don't like UV colored items in my rig. I've never seen a UV rig that made me feel like "wow, I want to do that." It's just personal preference, really.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> well guys found an interesting video for those lovers of acrylics tubing but want bigger size 3/4 OD x 1/2 ID Hard acrylic.. the guys from mod zoo came up with a solution
> it's very interesting, take a look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> Nice idea, thanks for sharing it. These big tubes would really bright inside a huge case, I think.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> 
> 
> Way too fat for me. Yes, and she did say that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Gonna give this a try







. I bought a g1/4 tap and bit set from mcmastercarr.com a few years ago but never used it. I have a plastics company just minutes away I can get this tube in 6' lengths for ~$8 each (eplastics.com). Will get a small test going and if its feasible it may replace my current Primochill and compression fittings. Also, they do have 1/2x5/8 tube for ~$5 but I think the wall is probably to thin and may crack.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I ended up going to home depot as harbor freight is not too impressive in my neighborhood. I picked up a 24 tpi with 32 tpi replacements, 24 seems to cut okay but going to use the 32 replacements just for a smoother cut. I did get some fine grade sand paper, forgot the count.
> 
> Side note, I've went through six feet of acrylic and maybe one good bend so far, I'm very picky and doing this by hand is tough. I've got the rig up with flex tube and though about since I don't want my computer down for a long amount of time as this is my only one, replace a piece or two at a time, which would mean draining and filling up, thinking about just distilled till I get the final piece then do the additive. Probably over a couple week span.
> 
> Curious, since this acrylic from McMaster's is UV resistant, wouldn't it be counter productive to use UV reactive fluids? Guess what should happen is a low amount of UV should go through the acrylic making UV fluid not worth it.


What Xnine said about bending, follow that. If you dont want to invest in a monsoon bending kit, a 32 TPI blade is good. I use around 800 grit sand paper for making sure that my ends are nice and flush. For bending, one thing advice that I will give is that go slow (keep moving the tube over the heat gun), and heat more area than what you need bent. Going slow, keep moving the tube, and heating more area is what I did when I bent the fat tube (3/4 X 1/2).

MCMaster UV resistant tubing will be no issue when it comes to UV Reactive fluids. That tubing is just designed to not take damage or go bad under UV exposure (like fade or crack). One of the builds that I helped on is using the UV resistant tubing from McMaster, (link to build - http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1150-mz-1-mod-zoo-pc-project-video-series/ )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Gonna give this a try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I bought a g1/4 tap and bit set from mcmastercarr.com a few years ago but never used it. I have a plastics company just minutes away I can get this tube in 6' lengths for ~$8 each (eplastics.com). Will get a small test going and if its feasible it may replace my current Primochill and compression fittings. Also, they do have 1/2x5/8 tube for ~$5 but I think the wall is probably to thin and may crack.


We tried that, and just like you said, the walls are too thin and I had issues when I was just playing with the idea. I also tried the same with 5/8 by 3/8 tubing (kinds of defeats the purpose), but that required drilling on the tubing a bit to make the OD a bit large, and then tap it.

Glad to know that you are willing to try it out.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> We tried that, and just like you said, the walls are too thin and I had issues when I was just playing with the idea. I also tried the same with 5/8 by 3/8 tubing (kinds of defeats the purpose), but that required drilling on the tubing a bit to make the OD a bit large, and then tap it.
> 
> Glad to know that you are willing to try it out.


Do you know the 90° radius that results w/ this tube size (3/4 od)?


----------



## Dankal

Hey guys, So about a month or so ago I ruined my graphics card when the acrylic pipe leaked all over my card thus shorting it. ( The problem was that the fans failed, computer heated up, pipe probably melted at the joint and therefore leaked. ) What can I do to prevent this.. can I use teflon tape or something? Or should I ditch the piping completely and just trade my fittings for some normal fittings? I just want an opinion. Btw only one of the joints leaked, the other ones were rock solid. (getting my rma card back today)


----------



## Ninhalem

You could setup your fan controller and computer to shut down immediately if a fan fails and you don't have a backup solution to a single fan going down.


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Do you know the 90° radius that results w/ this tube size (3/4 od)?


Chris aka Mosquito has the build at his place, I asked him to get that number, one of us will get that for you by the end of day.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> The thing about the Monsoon kit, is that it was made FOR acrylic tubing. It isn't re-purposed. I went through about 4 feet of acrylic in just testing bends, heating properly, etc, but the mandrels do exactly what they were designed to do, and the included saw with miter box is incredibly handy to cut down the acrylic. Then it comes with a pipe reamer that allows you to not only chamfer the inside of the pipe, but the outside as well. There's definitely a learning curve, but if you watch the videos in the OP that BNeg linked to, and follow his instructions, everything becomes much simpler.
> 
> I've been using E-22 tubing with Bitspower's new Acrylic/Hard fittings because it's a much smaller ID/OD than anything in the US. Using large fittings and tubing on an Impact board was definitely a no-go. So far, no issues.
> 
> I dunno about McMaster's tubing, haven't worked with it, but then again, I don't like UV colored items in my rig. I've never seen a UV rig that made me feel like "wow, I want to do that." It's just personal preference, really.


I'm going to go ahead, pick up the mandrels and cutting kit, seems much cleaner than all this guess work. I have yet to sell myself on the rulers but who knows. The heat gun is never available, we have a 1200 watt locally for 20 or 1500 for 40 that's digital, question is, will 1200 watt work sufficiently? I think the digital and twice the price is overkill.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> The t. ng about the Monsoon kit, is that it was made FOR acrylic tubing. It isnt re-purposed. I went through about 4 feet of acrylic in just testing bends, heating properly, etc, but the do exactly what they were designed to do, and the included saw with miter box is incredibly handy to cut down the acrylic. Then it comes with a pipe reamer that allows you to not only chamfer the inside of the pipe, but the outside as well. There's definitely a learning curve, but if you watch the videos in the OP that BNeg linked to, and follow his instructions, everything becomes much simpler.
> 
> I've been using E-22 tubing with Bitspower's new Acrylic/Hard fittings because it's a much smaller ID/OD than anything in the US. Using large fittings and tubing on an Impact board was definitely a no-go. So far, no issues.
> 
> I dunno about McMaster's tubing, haven't worked with it, but then again, I don't like UV colored items in my rig. I've never seen a UV rig that made me feel like "wow, I want to do that." It's just personal preference, really.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to go ahead, pick up the mandrels and cutting kit, seems much cleaner than all this guess work. I have yet to sell myself on the rulers but who knows. The heat gun is never available, we have a 1200 watt locally for 20 or 1500 for 40 that's digital, question is, will 1200 watt work sufficiently? I think the digital and twice the price is overkill.
Click to expand...

The rulers are actually essential to measuring your bends correctly. There isn't a part of the kit I haven't used. For a heat gun, the 20 dollar model will work fine, I have 15 dollar heat gun from microcenter I bought years ago that works. Everything in the monsoon kit is used in doing acrylic work, it's honestly very cheap for the use you get out of it, not to mention the results.


----------



## Ovrclck

Pretty much this ^^

I thought I could go without the measuring kit...nope.Too hard. Gave up and bought the kit.


----------



## lowfat

I honestly have had very little use for the rulers. I have tried using them the way they were shown in the video but found them inaccurate. Using an adjustable square, the 90 degree mandrel, and a piece of scrap tubing is how I do all my measuring now.









All I use from the kit are the 180 and 90 mandrels, the heatgun, the saw, the reamer, the gloves, and the miter box.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Chris aka Mosquito has the build at his place, I asked him to get that number, one of us will get that for you by the end of day.


Thanks









Just stopped by e-plastics.com and spent ~$27 for four lengths of 6' tubes. Got a nice discount from the guys there







. McMasterCarr.com has shipped my silicone rod and since they're in socal, it usually arrives in the next couple of days.

For the tight motherboard area, I may just go w/ a bunch of 90°s fittings (male to male) if the radius is too large to loop my several blocks w/ bends. As large as my STH10 is, these 140mm rads do make it very cramp so plumbing will need some modding of the case







.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> The rulers are actually essential to measuring your bends correctly. There isn't a part of the kit I haven't used. For a heat gun, the 20 dollar model will work fine, I have 15 dollar heat gun from microcenter I bought years ago that works. Everything in the monsoon kit is used in doing acrylic work, it's honestly very cheap for the use you get out of it, not to mention the results.


I might go ahead and try the measure tools then, I've got someone I've talked into going into acrylic also, pitching in on the tools with me, make it a little more affordable which is a funny word with all I've put into this computer so far...


----------



## X-Nine

Every time I've used the rulers my results have been terrific, and as Geno mentioned, you always add more length than what you measure to either end to allow for placement in the fitting, and allowing you to cut to length. Not a single issue with the rulers on my end.


----------



## Roikyou

I have one bend that will literally be five bends, that's the one I worry about the most, rest of them shouldn't be too bad, then I have two - four bend runs, but the five bends will be from the cpu to the 480 radiator on the power supply side, long and tough to do is my prediction. Then two - two bend runs. So five total, doesn't sound like much but every time I look at it...


----------



## lowfat

Most bends in the real world aren't as simple as the ones in Geno's videos. You cant add length to the middle section if you are doing two bends in a single run. If you are a couple of millimeters off you tubing will be crooked. Since the ruler is only 2 dimensions I found it horribly inaccurate.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Most bends in the real world aren't as simple as the ones in Geno's videos. You cant add length to the middle section if you are doing two bends in a single run. If you are a couple of millimeters off you tubing will be crooked. Since the ruler is only 2 dimensions I found it horribly inaccurate.


That's where I find that I'll be guessing on quite a bit of it but if I can get good 90 degree bends and make it looks somewhat decent, I'm happy.

Just pitched in with a coworker and picked up 8 - 6 foot acrylic from mcmasters for 45 total, so 4 - 6 ft per person for 22.50, plenty of acrylic to play with.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Mostbends in the real world aren't as simple as the ones in Geno's videos. You cant add legth to the middle section if you are doing two bends in a single run. If you are a couple of millimeters off you tubing will be crooked. Since the ruler is only 2 dimensions I found it horribly inaccurate.


I did two bends on one run, and the rulers can be made to go along any axis, you just need to mount them properly and understand where the outside edge is for each bend. Measure twice, or in my instance, five or six times, cut once. Geno shows some basic and intermediate bends, but the same principles apply to harder bends as well. I don't know why anyone would need that many bends, though. Seems to me that the simplest route is usually the best. 2-3 should be sufficient for just about any run that I could imagine.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I did two bends on one run, and the rulers can be made to go along any axis, you just need to mount them properly and understand where the outside edge is for each bend. Measure twice, or in my instance, five or six times, cut once. Geno shows some basic and intermediate bends, but the same principles apply to harder bends as well. I don't know why anyone would need that many bends, though. Seems to me that the simplest route is usually the best. 2-3 should be sufficient for just about any run that I could imagine.


I'll have to add some pictures to my build log, I know I have at least four bends as I have two 480s in series, looping those two from the motherboard side to the power supply side as the hole between the two doesn't perfectly align, will require a four bend unless I drill a hole in the case. Wish it was as simple as two or three bends and done.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I'll have to add some pictures to my build log, I know I have at least four bends as I have two 480s in series, looping those two from the motherboard side to the power supply side as the hole between the two doesn't perfectly align, will require a four bend unless I drill a hole in the case. Wish it was as simple as two or three bends and done.


Might be easier and possibly look cleaner to drill a hole and use a pass-thru fitting with separate tubes on either side rather than try to route through an existing hole. Wouldn't be cheaper though.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Might be easier and possibly look cleaner to drill a hole and use a pass-thru fitting with separate tubes on either side rather than try to route through an existing hole. Wouldn't be cheaper though.


Not ready to start drilling into it yet and don't have the tools (probably could get them if I really wanted to), I'll have to keep trying for the cleanest bend I can and hope for the best.


----------



## Ovrclck

My measuring kit is here! Time to go play


----------



## wermad

What's the best way to cut (thick 1/2x3/4) acrylic tube? Looks like the forming rod was delivered early today so I wanna start some testing tonight







. Didn't like how my mini hacksaw cut throw 3/8x1/2 acrylic on my first go at acrylic (last year). Want to minimize sanding as much as possible with a clean cut. Thanks


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's the best way to cut (thick 1/2x3/4) acrylic tube? Looks like the forming rod was delivered early today so I wanna start some testing tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Didn't like how my mini hacksaw cut throw 3/8x1/2 acrylic on my first go at acrylic (last year). Want to minimize sanding as much as possible with a clean cut. Thanks


As long as you mini hacksaw has high TPI you should be good. I use a coping saw with high TPI blades, use some candle wax to make sure that your blade does not get stuck while cutting.

This is what I have Link


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> As long as you mini hacksaw has high TPI you should be good. I use a coping saw with high TPI blades, use some candle wax to make sure that your blade does not get stuck while cutting.
> 
> This is what I have Link


I probably need a guide for it since most of my cuts ended up crooked. Reading some aquarium threads, they recommend a jigsaw. Wondering if a hand-held hack saw may be more precise then the mini or regular variant. I bought 24' of hard acrylic, so I have a bit to play around with







. Thanks again


----------



## Dankal

Acrylic starts to deform around 70 to 80 degrees.. Make sure you guys are fail proof. Btw if anyone wants to trade their compression fittings for my rigid revolver fittings pm me


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dankal*
> 
> Acrylic starts to deform around 70 to 80 degrees.. Make sure you guys are fail proof. Btw if anyone wants to trade their compression fittings for my rigid revolver fittings pm me


Where did you see that? Everywhere I've looked lists the heat distortion temperature of acrylic at 90C-101C (194F-214F) and that's at much higher pressures than present in a watercooling loop. I can't imagine the coolant in a watercooling loop could ever get anywhere that high (or even to 70C for that matter) before the CPU would throttle / shutdown. Acrylic's melting point is somewhere around 130C (266F).

Heck, my XSPC glass Photon reservoir's temp limit is 50C, and I've never seen my loop temps get anywhere near that. Everyone who bought an XSPC Photon res gets this little 'warning' notice in the box with it:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I probably need a guide for it since most of my cuts ended up crooked. Reading some aquarium threads, they recommend a jigsaw. Wondering if a hand-held hack saw may be more precise then the mini or regular variant. I bought 24' of hard acrylic, so I have a bit to play around with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks again


Sounds like you could really benefit from a mini miter box.

Something like this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22337/too-132/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Cutting_Kit_-_12_x_58_16mm.html
or this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Jorgensen-60112-Adjustable-Clamp-11-1-4-Plastic-Miter-Box-/201059616139


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> As long as you mini hacksaw has high TPI you should be good. I use a coping saw with high TPI blades, use some candle wax to make sure that your blade does not get stuck while cutting.
> 
> This is what I have Link
> 
> 
> 
> I probably need a guide for it since most of my cuts ended up crooked. Reading some aquarium threads, they recommend a jigsaw. Wondering if a hand-held hack saw may be more precise then the mini or regular variant. I bought 24' of hard acrylic, so I have a bit to play around with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Thanks again
Click to expand...

If there is a Menards or home depot close by you might wanna stop there and check out their saw section. You will find something there for cheap. When I cut I like to keep my cutting surface at eye level so I get a better idea on the cut. Once cut user some medium grit sand paper do make sure it's flush.

Also when it comes to bending the 90 degree bend that I did I just used water. You can add some dish washing liquid if you need some lubricating. Water gives you a better idea as to when it's hot inside (it will start boiling).

Feel free to ask any questions you might have mate.

Also if some one is concerned about acrylic deforming due to high temps, you should look into PETG as the melting temp for PETG is around 500F or 260C.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


----------



## wermad

Going to HarborFreight to pick up some tools later in the week. A little tired tonight to mess w/ it since I have to look for that tap in my "tool" closet

edit: crappy pic:


----------



## Brian18741

Guys will any acrylic tube do or does it have to something specific?

I found this from a UK website which is over twice as long and half the price of Monsoon or Primochill tubing available over here.

Is there any reason not to use this tubing?


----------



## shish0000

I've been trying to find an alternative source in the UK myself. The issue is they're all metric. Wouldn't this cause some issues?


----------



## Brian18741

I don't think so. OCUK have their stock of acrylic tubing and fittings measured metrically which is what I was going by. I would prefer 16mm OD but may just go for 13mm OD Primochill but it's £16 for 120cm!

Doing a quick bit of research on it, the tubing I linked here is extruded. It seems cast tubing will have a better finish but I can't seem to find if the Primochill or Monsoon acrylic tubing is extruded or cast. I wonder does it even have any real world difference?


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> I don't think so. OCUK have their stock of acrylic tubing and fittings measured metrically which is what I was going by. I would prefer 16mm OD but may just go for 13mm OD Primochill but it's £16 for 120cm!
> 
> Doing a quick bit of research on it, the tubing I linked here is extruded. It seems cast tubing will have a better finish but I can't seem to find if the Primochill or Monsoon acrylic tubing is extruded or cast. I wonder does it even have any real world difference?


Cast acrylic is optically more clear and easy to form and work with. Cast acrylic does not exist in small ODs. I think here in the US the smallest OD that I have found for cast is 1.5"


----------



## Brian18741

Ah so all the acrylic tubing offered by Monsoon or Primochill etc is extruded? That's good news!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's the best way to cut (thick 1/2x3/4) acrylic tube? Looks like the forming rod was delivered early today so I wanna start some testing tonight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Didn't like how my mini hacksaw cut throw 3/8x1/2 acrylic on my first go at acrylic (last year). Want to minimize sanding as much as possible with a clean cut. Thanks


I use a high tpi hacksaw,the caveat is that the blade needs to be new,don't use one that has cut metal before.

I tend to cut 3/4 thru then snap it,dress the end and you are set.
You can try the score and snap method,it works for sheet acrylic but I will be honest...everytime I have done it it has drawn blood.
A mitre box is invaluable.


----------



## wermad

Jigsaw goes a bit too fast and melts it a bit w/ an 18 tpi metal blade. I did a quick and dirty cut and it came out decent. The melted bits break off w/ a bit of force. Still going to practice or look for better options.

As far as bending, I used a tin of cookies that holds my precision screw drivers. Its ~3"and I think this is probably ideal for 3/4" od acrylic. I tried bending it freehand and it collapsed a bit. I was still able to pull out the silicone rod and the inner cavity has caved too much. It should still allow flow but it does have a bit of a flat spot which makes it look awkward. I need to make a small jig to figure out what's the best bending radius to avoid flat or wrinkled bits. It does take longer to heat up obviously but wrinkling is very minimal compared to 3/8x1/2:


----------



## jamaican voodoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Jigsaw goes a bit too fast and melts it a bit w/ an 18 tpi metal blade. I did a quick and dirty cut and it came out decent. The melted bits break off w/ a bit of force. Still going to practice or look for better options.
> 
> As far as bending, I used a tin of cookies that holds my precision screw drivers. Its ~3"and I think this is probably ideal for 3/4" od acrylic. I tried bending it freehand and it collapsed a bit. I was still able to pull out the silicone rod and the inner cavity has caved too much. It should still allow flow but it does have a bit of a flat spot which makes it look awkward. I need to make a small jig to figure out what's the best bending radius to avoid flat or wrinkled bits. It does take longer to heat up obviously but wrinkling is very minimal compared to 3/8x1/2:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


look great though, im going attempt this too.. once it heats up is their any resistance when bending?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> look great though, im going attempt this too.. once it heats up is their any resistance when bending?


Not really. Initially it wants to return back to its original shape but that's because it needs more heat. You do have to hold it in place as cooling (obviously) is slower. I think because of the thicker walls, once heated properly, its very malleable, unlike 3/8x1/2 which feels like it could collapse or break off easier.

One issue I'm still not sure how to clear is to tap the tube if its already bent. I'm trying to avoid buying a bunch of angled fittings/adapters. Its ideal to bend first to get the final shape then tap. I don't want to tap and have it come up short. I may just have to measure a few times to figure out how much tube I need. Also, I don't have a wrench large enough for this G1/4 tap. I bought a 1/2" tap wrench at Homes and it was slightly too small. Won't fit in my Bostitch 18v drill as well







. I may go w/ just a few simple bends and not end up w/ a long runs of piped work with bends. This way I can easily tap the tube.

Got an idea. Homes has super stiff Watts 1/2x3/4 plastic tube. Maybe buy some to use as a template for each tube run. This might allow me to calculate exactly the length of tube I need for each run. Tap it and then bend it. Its only ~$7 for a roll of 10' and I know first hand how stiff this tube is. Basically, using it as a mock up model to avoid using all the acrylic tube.

Going with Alphacool m-to-m rotary fittings and m-to-m 90° adapters (where needed).


----------



## jamaican voodoo

yea that a great idea ...it will prevent you from wasting all the a acrylic for difficult bends....i was thinking you could use vice grip to hold the tap? no. also if you can get some straight runs with 90'digree bends that will simplify things too... i like big the tubing is i'm quite excited to working with it...plus with that size tubing the coolants shows up more richer


----------



## wermad

If I can use the stiff Watts tube to calculate how long each tube needs to be, then i can pre tap the tubes (using the vise) and then bend. If it doesn't work, I'll need a large tap wrench to tap the tube after bending.

edit:


----------



## jamaican voodoo

that 90'd bend looking mighty good wermad







....i cant wait to see coolant in it, i bet you it's gonna change everyone's mind about the size


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> that 90'd bend looking mighty good wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....i cant wait to see coolant in it, i bet you it's gonna change everyone's mind about the size


I'm calling it "hard-phatty" acrylic tube





















.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

BHAhahaahaha i most choke on my food lol







that name!!!


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Not really. Initially it wants to return back to its original shape but that's because it needs more heat. You do have to hold it in place as cooling (obviously) is slower. I think because of the thicker walls, once heated properly, its very malleable, unlike 3/8x1/2 which feels like it could collapse or break off easier.
> 
> One issue I'm still not sure how to clear is to tap the tube if its already bent. I'm trying to avoid buying a bunch of angled fittings/adapters. Its ideal to bend first to get the final shape then tap. I don't want to tap and have it come up short. I may just have to measure a few times to figure out how much tube I need. Also, I don't have a wrench large enough for this G1/4 tap. I bought a 1/2" tap wrench at Homes and it was slightly too small. Won't fit in my Bostitch 18v drill as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I may go w/ just a few simple bends and not end up w/ a long runs of piped work with bends. This way I can easily tap the tube.
> 
> Got an idea. Homes has super stiff Watts 1/2x3/4 plastic tube. Maybe buy some to use as a template for each tube run. This might allow me to calculate exactly the length of tube I need for each run. Tap it and then bend it. Its only ~$7 for a roll of 10' and I know first hand how stiff this tube is. Basically, using it as a mock up model to avoid using all the acrylic tube.
> 
> Going with Alphacool m-to-m rotary fittings and m-to-m 90° adapters (where needed).


If you see our video again, when it comes to tapping you just need some pliers to hold the tap in place, and just turn the tubing. if you have a vise grip use that.

This stuff bends really nice (easier to get a clean bend). Also if you have already tapped, you can still bend, no issues there. When tapping you dont need more than 4 rings as your average fitting only has like 3 rings.

*Also the alphacool ones did NOT work for us as the threads on those are not wide enough.* So test it out before using.

here are some close up shots of the threads and how much are used


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I know that the fitting from following manufacturers work:

- XSPC
- Bitspower
- Enzotech
- Monsoon
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> that 90'd bend looking mighty good wermad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....i cant wait to see coolant in it, i bet you it's gonna change everyone's mind about the size


Here you go:
This shot was taken about a month ago when I was first leak testing the idea.


----------



## jamaican voodoo

wow!! clooant looks so much more full, in the hard fatty!! wermad!!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> If you see our video again, when it comes to tapping you just need some pliers to hold the tap in place, and just turn the tubing. if you have a vise grip use that.
> 
> This stuff bends really nice (easier to get a clean bend). Also if you have already tapped, you can still bend, no issues there. When tapping you dont need more than 4 rings as your average fitting only has like 3 rings.
> 
> *Also the alphacool ones did NOT work for us as the threads on those are not wide enough.* So test it out before using.
> 
> here are some close up shots of the threads and how much are used
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that the fitting from following manufacturers work:
> 
> - XSPC
> - Bitspower
> - Enzotech
> - Monsoon
> Here you go:
> This shot was taken about a month ago when I was first leak testing the idea.


Thanks







. I have a few Alpha cool fittings/adapters I'll try. XSPC fittings seem out of stock everywhere. The Enzotechs seem a tad bit too small and I may not be able to tighten it properly (especially my complex mb area). I'll look into the others you've listed.

My concern is taping after bending since you may not know how much tube you'll need. I thought up the idea to get some stiff plastic tube in the same size and use that to mock up the runs. I can then get an aproximation of how much acrylic tube I'll need for the run. Tap it and then start bending it. This way I can use the vise method rather then buying a $50 tap wrench that will fit the tap doing manually.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> wow!! clooant looks so much more full, in the hard *phatty*!! wermad!!


ftfy


----------



## wermad

Wow, the tolerances are extremely small. I tested a few different fittings and only few actually grabbed the threads.

Passed:
-XSPC m-to-m
-Phobya rotary m-to-m extension
-Old EK long thread hex plug

Failed:
-Alphacool m-to-m
-Alphacool 90° adapter
-Alphacool dual rotary angled adaterr
-Ek 1/2" barb
-EK oem (gpu and cpu blocks) plug
-Phobya 20mm extension
-Phobya 50mm extension
-Koolance sli link

I had no idea threads were milled with slight differences. When you think about it, 1/2" comes in ~12.7mm and the bit to tap G1/4 is ~11.8mm. Almost a whole mm in difference. That's why there's little tolerance. Wow, still thinking on this one.

If the phobya m-to-m worked but all the Phobya extensions (~8 of them) failed, so this is up in the there. With the right fittings, this should work but this subtle difference makes me nervous that I may just pass on this one







. Might just go copper tube painted black and some revolvers.

thanks for the help Jassilamba and JamaicanReaper


----------



## jassilamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, the tolerances are extremely small. I tested a few different fittings and only few actually grabbed the threads.
> 
> Passed:
> -XSPC m-to-m
> -Phobya rotary m-to-m extension
> -Old EK long thread hex plug
> 
> Failed:
> -Alphacool m-to-m
> -Alphacool 90° adapter
> -Alphacool dual rotary angled adaterr
> -Ek 1/2" barb
> -EK oem (gpu and cpu blocks) plug
> -Phobya 20mm extension
> -Phobya 50mm extension
> -Koolance sli link
> 
> I had no idea threads were milled with slight differences. When you think about it, 1/2" comes in ~12.7mm and the bit to tap G1/4 is ~11.8mm. Almost a whole mm in difference. That's why there's little tolerance. Wow, still thinking on this one.
> 
> If the phobya m-to-m worked but all the Phobya extensions (~8 of them) failed, so this is up in the there. With the right fittings, this should work but this subtle difference makes me nervous that I may just pass on this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Might just go copper tube painted black and some revolvers.
> 
> thanks for the help Jassilamba and JamaicanReaper


Hence we recommended this with caution. you could always look at the new Monsoon compression fittings for acrylic (they are smaller in size compared to the revolvers), and you can have those in 5/8 X 1/2 so your ID is still the same.

I think this might just work better with 7/16 X 5/8 tubing.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> Hence we recommended this with caution. you could always look at the new Monsoon compression fittings for acrylic (they are smaller in size compared to the revolvers), and you can have those in 5/8 X 1/2 so your ID is still the same.
> 
> I think this might just work better with 7/16 X 5/8 tubing.


Eplastics has 3/8x5/8, if you can bore this out w/ the 11.8mm bit, this might work. Though I'm not sure how well the acrylic will hold up to the bit. Well, going to return the other three tubes. May pick up a 3/8x5/8 test this theory. This also has the same wall thickness and I can run the Monsoon fitting


----------



## jassilamba

And that's how that looks. Only trick with that is getting it to look clean.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Fast fate has already made a complete loop from threaded acrylic,you can buy the lengths pre threaded in 5mm increment lengths,you will have to go back the the thread to find the link tho.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jamaican voodoo*
> 
> look great though, im going attempt this too.. once it heats up is their any resistance when bending?
> 
> 
> 
> Not really. Initially it wants to return back to its original shape but that's because it needs more heat. You do have to hold it in place as cooling (obviously) is slower. I think because of the thicker walls, once heated properly, its very malleable, unlike 3/8x1/2 which feels like it could collapse or break off easier.
> 
> One issue I'm still not sure how to clear is to tap the tube if its already bent. I'm trying to avoid buying a bunch of angled fittings/adapters. Its ideal to bend first to get the final shape then tap. I don't want to tap and have it come up short. I may just have to measure a few times to figure out how much tube I need. Also, I don't have a wrench large enough for this G1/4 tap. I bought a 1/2" tap wrench at Homes and it was slightly too small. Won't fit in my Bostitch 18v drill as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I may go w/ just a few simple bends and not end up w/ a long runs of piped work with bends. This way I can easily tap the tube.
> 
> Got an idea. Homes has super stiff Watts 1/2x3/4 plastic tube. Maybe buy some to use as a template for each tube run. This might allow me to calculate exactly the length of tube I need for each run. Tap it and then bend it. Its only ~$7 for a roll of 10' and I know first hand how stiff this tube is. Basically, using it as a mock up model to avoid using all the acrylic tube.
> 
> *Going with Alphacool m-to-m rotary fittings* and m-to-m 90° adapters (where needed).
Click to expand...

You'll probably end up regretting that choice . . . . .









The only way to bore out acrylic tube and have it look decent, is on a lathe with a boring tool or reamer, not a drill bit.

Darlene


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jassilamba*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's how that looks. Only trick with that is getting it to look clean.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk


I'll keep that mind and thanks for all your help. I did watch a monsoon hardline vid w/ the 30lb weight. Just to see how the xspc held on the acrylic tube, one good tug, and it came off. That's the nail in the coffin for me on this route







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Wow, the tolerances are extremely small. I tested a few different fittings and only few actually grabbed the threads.
> 
> Passed:
> -XSPC m-to-m
> -Phobya rotary m-to-m extension
> -Old EK long thread hex plug
> 
> Failed:
> -Alphacool m-to-m
> -Alphacool 90° adapter
> -Alphacool dual rotary angled adaterr
> -Ek 1/2" barb
> -EK oem (gpu and cpu blocks) plug
> -Phobya 20mm extension
> -Phobya 50mm extension
> -Koolance sli link
> 
> I had no idea threads were milled with slight differences. When you think about it, 1/2" comes in ~12.7mm and the bit to tap G1/4 is ~11.8mm. Almost a whole mm in difference. That's why there's little tolerance. Wow, still thinking on this one.
> 
> If the phobya m-to-m worked but all the Phobya extensions (~8 of them) failed, so this is up in the there. With the right fittings, this should work but this subtle difference *makes me nervous that I may just pass on this one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .* Might just go copper tube painted black and some revolvers.
> 
> thanks for the help Jassilamba and JamaicanReaper
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> You'll probably end up regretting that choice . . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fast fate has already made a complete loop from threaded acrylic,you can buy the lengths pre threaded in 5mm increment lengths,you will have to go back the the thread to find the link tho.


This is true, but I used the already threaded lengths.(I did start another loop in my SM8 but project changed direction and now took parts out of it for another build)


Spoiler: Abandoned SM8 Threaded Acrylic Loop






The loop pictured below has been running now like this for a couple of months I guess (except now the coolant is lemon yellow with the magic green mist through it)
Went for a hard industrial look using fittings and straight acrylic lengths so.....
I neither bent any or threaded any - BUT I'll certainly be trying my hand with this at some stage as I like the look of the threaded acrylic.

*EDIT* - Just measured the acrylic tube I have that is pre-threaded....
OD = 17.5mm (converted = 11/16)
ID = 10.5mm (converted = 13/32)
leaving wall thickness of 3.5mm (converted = 9/64)

Werm and others considering this option please consider the following very carefully.
*You will have to be extremely accurate with your bends and cuts* with this method guys !!
If not virtually perfect the acrylic will always crack at the thread - ALWAYS - maybe not on the first day or even first week, but it will crack, it's happened to me.
Cutting the threads creates two weak points on the tube, and if the tube is forced to flex even a little, eventually the thread will crack.
You must use a rotary fitting on at least one end to fit the tube length, and must screw together nicely without needing to use any manipulation / force.


----------



## wermad

Got another idea that may have been done already. I could try it but I'm a bit busy tbh. Anyone wanting to try, here's what I got so far:

-7/8x5/8 Plexi tube (eplastics 6' ~$13).
-G3/8-19 Tap (~$24 mcmastercarr.com, ~$15 ebay-chinese sellers)
-G3/8 to G1/4 adapters, these are pretty common. More than I had expected. Phobya has some inexpensive fixed (~$2-3) and rotary adapters (~$3-4). There's male g3/8 to male g1/4 (aquatuning) and there's a few male g3/8 to female g1/4. The ones i narrowed down where the Phobya fixed male g3/8 to female g1/4 mainly due to the longer g3/8 threads. Most use the standard length ~5mm of thread for both. Though, tbh, it may work just fine w/ 5mm long threads since the tap should be better then the 1/2 id to g1/4 approach.
-Silicone tube of 9/16" od (mcmastercarr.com ~$8 for 5') is ideal as it won't get stuck. 1/16" smaller size gives you a bit of slack so the cord/tube doesn't get stuck inside the acrylic tube. This is what was recommended for 1/2" id tube (7/16" silicone) and it worked perfect for me.

So here's what I've gathered:

G1/4 tap needs a minimum hole of 11.8mm. Unfortunately, 1/2" comes in ~12.7mm which makes the threads very shallow (and easy to tap on a positive note). Found out first hand not all g1/4 threads are the same so as a few folks already pointed out, you're limited to a few fittings that will hold. Even still, I found this to close for comfort and with a small and good pull, it comes off easily.

G3/8 requires a hole of 15.25mm to tap. Fortunately, 5/8" id tube comes in ~15.88mm. There's a very small difference (in terms of tolerances tbh) between the tap hole size and the tube id. So this seems more viable as the threads will be deeper and will most like accept a wider range of fittings.Also a good cause to try the much unloved G3/8 stuff.

7/8x5/8 tube has the same wall thickness as the 3/4x1/2 (1/8" ~3mm) so you still get those nice bends. I do't know if 3/4x5/8 is ideal as I and some have pointed out its a tad too thin to thread (imho and shared as well).

I'm still open to trying this since I can exchange the tube I have for this new size. I got a few other commitments from the forum as well as the more important life ones preoccupying me atm, so I just won't have time.

If you do try it, let us know if it works. You'll be sporting bozz 7/8" od (22mm) tube. Its not too big tbh, as some compression fittings measure ~24mm on the outer ring's diameter.


----------



## Roikyou

So, this is what happens when you never take shop class and never should take shop class



Almost 12 feet of acrylic and nothing but failures. Some people are never meant to touch acrylic, I am officially one of them. I'll stay with flex tubing.

Word of warning to those who contemplate this idea, really sit back and think over the idea...


----------



## robert1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> So, this is what happens when you never take shop class and never should take shop class
> 
> 
> 
> Almost 12 feet of acrylic and nothing but failures. Some people are never meant to touch acrylic, I am officially one of them. I'll stay with flex tubing.
> 
> Word of warning to those who contemplate this idea, really sit back and think over the idea...


Wow!! Was it that bad? I found that it just took a little practice before I came out with the final products, well what I thought was good enough..


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robert1978*
> 
> Wow!! Was it that bad? I found that it just took a little practice before I came out with the final products, well what I thought was good enough..


without the mandrels and the kit, I compared what I did by hand, not very close to 90 degree bends. The miter box worked once for me, no clue how it went so far off track on the second cut, I was more afraid of cutting through the bottom and didn't even think about it going off track and cutting the side.

I've got such, in my opinion, complex bends, this experience put enough fear where I don't want to touch acrylic, I'm ready to be done before any more damage is done.


----------



## lowfat

The thing about acrylic is you really have to plan your loops out for the most simple layout possible. Think ahead of time how you can limit the amount of bends. Also avoid doing one bend close to another one.

As for the miter, i have cut the crap out of mine. The slot in mine is likely a good few mm deeper than it was originally. It is easier to use now IMO.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The thing about acrylic is you really have to plan your loops out for the most simple layout possible. Think ahead of time how you can limit the amount of bends. Also avoid doing one bend close to another one.
> 
> As for the miter, i have cut the crap out of mine. The slot in mine is likely a good few mm deeper than it was originally. It is easier to use now IMO.


I wish it was that simple

Here's a pic I did this afternoon, I was trying to clean up the wiring. You can see the two loops at the top where I'm connecting the two 480's in series, the output goes to the gpu.



Here's a couple phone shots



You can see the pumps in series, goes to cpu to 480 to 480 to gpu to 360 to pump



I don't know how to make it more simple then that other than taking radiators out. Maybe it's just not meant to be.


----------



## wermad

I'm still open to the idea but it s way more involved and a definite challenge.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I'm still open to the idea but it s way more involved and a definite challenge.


I'm guessing your talking about my crazy build, I would agree on the challenge part and for first time acrylic, I have a lack of words for it. (maybe I'm reading into another part of the thread...)


----------



## wermad

From personal experience







. I made my first attempt before these forming Kits were out.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> From personal experience
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I made my first attempt before these forming Kits were out.


I give you guys kudos, there are you whom have the knack and then there's us who struggle to get it done or in this experience, attempt it.


----------



## djnsmith7

Quote:


> XSPC fittings seem out of stock everywhere.


Try www.svc.com. I purchased my XSPC parts from them for my build & they had what I needed on the shelf. They're in Milpitas, CA, but ship all over.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> without the mandrels and the kit, I compared what I did by hand, not very close to 90 degree bends. The miter box worked once for me, no clue how it went so far off track on the second cut, I was more afraid of cutting through the bottom and didn't even think about it going off track and cutting the side.
> 
> I've got such, in my opinion, complex bends, this experience put enough fear where I don't want to touch acrylic, I'm ready to be done before any more damage is done.


It's shouldn't be all that bad. I've freehanded a few 5 bend acrylic pieces freehanded, and they came out absolutely perfect to the centimeter - given a little wiggle room for fitting insertion. In the beginning, I found myself rushing through the process, not knowing it was the amount of heat that I was using on the acrylic. So after a number of trial and errors, I found myself in greater control using a lower heat setting on the heat gun, allowing for more heating time, and using a bit more patience. Mind you, I also had the Monsoon kit too, but as time progressed, I found myself using it less and less.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

1/4 bspp is the same,regardless of supplier,I would get a die set and test the threads,if they don't fit 1/4 bspp then they are not 1/4bspp and from that I would look at the closest imperial die.
Not surprised in the slightest that Alphacool gear doesn't fit that spec.....

As Darlene correctly pointed pointer,tapping a tube will require a lathe or,at a push,a pillar drill. You require the threads and shoulder to be bang on,leaking or fractures in the tube will be the result otherwise.


----------



## PepeLapiu

A bit off topic, but not completely.
Still this is probably the best place to ask.

How would you go about making a slit 4-5mm wide, and 25-30mm long in a piece of 0.8mm thin plexi?
Dremel it?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> A bit off topic, but not completely.
> Still this is probably the best place to ask.
> 
> How would you go about making a slit 4-5mm wide, and 25-30mm long in a piece of 0.8mm thin plexi?
> Dremel it?


Have someone lazer cut it...or a dremel/bench mill could do the trick. Plexi is hard to work with, especially with a dremel because you have to make sure you aren't going to melt it. Also, wear goggles.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> A bit off topic, but not completely.
> Still this is probably the best place to ask.
> 
> How would you go about making a slit 4-5mm wide, and 25-30mm long in a piece of 0.8mm thin plexi?
> Dremel it?


Fretsaw and a needle file to clean it up.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fretsaw and a needle file to clean it up.


No can do. The fretsaw is a scaled down ribbon saw right?
The cut I want to make is a hole in the middle of the piece.

I am just going to use my dremel with the piece under water to avoid melting and finish off with a file.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fretsaw and a needle file to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> No can do. The fretsaw is a scaled down ribbon saw right?
> The cut I want to make is a hole in the middle of the piece.
> 
> I am just going to use my dremel with the piece under water to avoid melting and finish off with a file.
Click to expand...

A fret saw can be slid through a pilot hole.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Fretsaw and a needle file to clean it up.
> 
> 
> 
> No can do. The fretsaw is a scaled down ribbon saw right?
> The cut I want to make is a hole in the middle of the piece.
> 
> I am just going to use my dremel with the piece under water to avoid melting and finish off with a file.
Click to expand...

Fretsaw.



As J said,thread the blade thru a pilot hole,they are very controllable and will do what you ask easily


----------



## PepeLapiu

My google pics of a fretsaw looked like a smaller version of a ribbon saw.
That will do just fine. I'll be getting one of those if the dremel don't work.


----------



## Ovrclck

So I just received 8532K13 3/8 1/2 tubing from mcmaster to practice on. I kinda like the look over E22.







Anyone want to trade a handful of C47's?


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I recently picked up 3/4 od 1/2 id acrylic and I figured i'd mess around and see how it bent. It bends pretty easy but i dunno if i tapped it wrong. The bitspower fitting I bought seemed snug but the easy came loose. I also don't know since it wasn't a straight cut if that had anything to do with it. It looks pretty sweet, but i don't know if I am going to fully commit and do threaded acrylic.

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/WP_20140418_003_zpsad0cec78.jpg.html

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/WP_20140418_001_zps5e5ea134.jpg.html

http://s1228.photobucket.com/user/ian1alcorn/media/WP_20140418_002_zpsb6eebd11.jpg.html


----------



## charliebrown

I was looking at Bill Owen using these look pretty cool


----------



## Hasty

These fat acrylic pipes look so bad ass.








Never understood why they make the standard ones so thin.


----------



## charliebrown

Do you have a comparison pic


----------



## wh0kn0ws

Are you asking me? If you are, no I don't have a comparison picture. This is the first time I've messed with acrylic tubing.


----------



## MrBlunt

i use 3/8th ID 1/2 OD primochill acrylic, WITH Bitzpower compression.. fits perfectly?


----------



## wh0kn0ws

I tapped the acrylic tube to accept 1/4 threads and I used a male to male adapter


----------



## 15goudreau

Those taps look phenomenal.

And yeah someone needs to tell EK to get on that 1/2 3/4 train


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasty*
> 
> These fat acrylic pipes look so bad ass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never understood why they make the standard ones so thin.


They look pretty awful on a MATX or ITX board. The smaller tubing allows for people to see the waterblock and more of the board for those. Larger diameter on ATX and above doesn't look out of place.


----------



## lowfat

Definitely prefer 1/2" OD myself. I don't like the way those fittings look. Plus I have never been a fan of fat tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Definitely prefer 1/2" OD myself. *I don't like the way those fittings look. Plus I have never been a fan of fat tubing.*


Agreed.

Bending threaded tube is just a whole load of excess pain,I cant see how it will work without D-Plugs or rotaries,excess cost for little reward.


----------



## Hefner

It all depends on the case imo. 1/2" OD looks like spaghetti in very big cases.


----------



## Neo Zuko

I'm Italian... I love spaghetti!!


----------



## PepeLapiu

I don't like the fat 3/4" of my previous builds and what I see on these forums.
My case is the enorneous STH10, and my pipes all 10mm OD (3/8" more or less).
And I love the understated look of it.
Spagettini in my case.


----------



## cyphon

I know it was posted awhile back but what was it you guys were using to bevel the edges of the tube for the c48 fittings?


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> I know it was posted awhile back but what was it you guys were using to bevel the edges of the tube for the c48 fittings?


A pipe reamer.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> A pipe reamer.


Thanks


----------



## X-Nine

Fo shizzy


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> A pipe reamer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


aka an 'Inner Outer Reamer'. Depending on where you shop the price on them can vary widely. You should be able to pick one up for ~$10 (US) or less.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=Inner+Outer+Reamer
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39840
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21932/ex-tub-2299/Hard_Tubing_Internal_and_External_Reamer_Deburring_Tool.html

Only reason I'm adding that to a post to this convo is this came up once before and whoever it was suggested to after they found one and bought it they later posted a link to it suggesting it to someone else - I think it was on this thread but could have been another - and turned out they paid something like $45 for theirs from a plumbing supply company. I was like


----------



## X-Nine

MNPCTech has them as well: http://mnpctech.com/pc-mod-tools/acrylic-tubing-reamer/

Personally, I'd buy from Bill before anyone.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I think Fast_Fate would have something to say about that,he did threaded long before those guys.......


----------



## fast_fate

I'ld be pretty confident _guessing_ that others did it before me.
My first pics have a time stamp Oct '13








So yeah, 6 months ago


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I'ld be pretty confident _guessing_ that others did it before me.
> My first pics have a time stamp Oct '13
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, 6 months ago


You were the first that I have seen and I do look into these things.


----------



## X-Nine

Yes, Daniel, I'm aware, but what does that have to do with buying a pipe reamer? Supporting a local mod-shop rather than Amazon or some such is the way I do things, because small business is awesome.


----------



## iamkraine

IDK I feel like those reemers are over rated. Just sand the outside and inside of the tube.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> IDK I feel like those reemers are over rated. Just sand the outside and inside of the tube.


Not overrated when you get an even ream in 1/20th the time it would take to sand. Work smarter, not harder. That's what my grandfather used to tell me, at least.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Yes, Daniel, I'm aware, but what does that have to do with buying a pipe reamer? Supporting a local mod-shop rather than Amazon or some such is the way I do things, because small business is awesome.


Absolutely nothing,my post in not in relation to that.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Yes, Daniel, I'm aware, but what does that have to do with buying a pipe reamer? Supporting a local mod-shop rather than Amazon or some such is the way I do things, because small business is awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> Absolutely nothing,my post in not in relation to that.
Click to expand...

Well....okay then!


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> IDK I feel like those reemers are over rated. Just sand the outside and inside of the tube.


I definitely think they are worth it. By using the Monsoon miter and the reamer it takes almost no time at all to cut and prep a piece of tubing.

Would be nice if you could mount the miter to a piece of wood though. I should look in to taping a couple of holes in to mine.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamkraine*
> 
> IDK I feel like those reemers are over rated. Just sand the outside and inside of the tube.


A handful of twists is all it takes to reem the edges, using that Monsoon reamer. You'll be done before you even have a chance to whip out the sandpaper.


----------



## erayser

I used both the inner and outer blades on the reamer. It gave me nice clean edges fast. Saves a lot of time compared to sand paper to do the same job. I'm glad I invested in the tool.


----------



## kingchris

think these look a little better


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> aka an 'Inner Outer Reamer'. Depending on where you shop the price on them can vary widely. You should be able to pick one up for ~$10 (US) or less.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/?_nkw=Inner+Outer+Reamer
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=39840
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21932/ex-tub-2299/Hard_Tubing_Internal_and_External_Reamer_Deburring_Tool.html
> 
> Only reason I'm adding that to a post to this convo is this came up once before and whoever it was suggested to after they found one and bought it they later posted a link to it suggesting it to someone else - I think it was on this thread but could have been another - and turned out they paid something like $45 for theirs from a plumbing supply company. I was like


Lol, appreciate it. I actually found the PPCs one and will probably grab it with the monsoon kit i plan on grabbing soon


----------



## NASzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hasty*
> 
> These fat acrylic pipes look so bad ass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never understood why they make the standard ones so thin.


it has to do with the flow rate, no point of running 1/2" ID Tubes when all of your components can only pass 1/4" ID worth of Fluid. I agree though, bigger does look better it's just less practical in real world applications.


----------



## Roikyou

First step moving away from flex and moving to acrylic


----------



## 15goudreau

Nice bend. Are you going to do one tube every month or so







?


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Nice bend. Are you going to do one tube every month or so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Was honestly thinking about it, took a couple hours, pretty much guess bending, using the 90 degree mandrel, third bend couldn't get right in time, had things to do in the afternoon, so I figured two was a good start, couple gallons of distilled (took a little over a liter as the 360 on the bottom was still full after draining the loop since the drain is level to the bottom of the case), so if I have to break it down again, basically flushing it out with distilled till I get the final bend, then I'm good with that. Next two would be the dark blue, get those out of the loop and then the long bend from gpu to psu side 480. Then once I have it well flushed with distilled, can choose a mayhems to go with, going away from the blue, UV theme.

Here's the three bends before I started, you can see the one with tape is where I should have made the bend but it was too late but it makes a good template for the next bend.


----------



## 15goudreau

Very nice. Definitely post more pictures as you go and the final product for sure!


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Very nice. Definitely post more pictures as you go and the final product for sure!


Thank you, keeping more detailed info in build log but will post upcoming bends as they should be interesting and of course completed project. Thinking pastel white or blood red from Mayhems but that's down the road.


----------



## 15goudreau

I'm all about that pastel.

Also I'm going to go sub now.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

I still have a good 9 feet of extra tubing left over from my build. At this point I can't imagine using it for anything else, unless by some natural or unnatural event one or more of my acrylic tubes snaps... Maybe I'll make a couple of silly straws for my beverage cup.


----------



## charliebrown

Just got these today from a guy on ebay $40


----------



## 15goudreau

is he selling more?


----------



## fast_fate

Never Again - my time with threaded acrylic is over !!!!
I consider this to be as close as one would want a leak to be without actually doing any damage








Rig's running 24/7, so extremely lucky to notice.

 
 

The threaded acrylic star fractured at the thread, and that wasn't the only one that did it, just the only one to start leaking.
The run was as good as could be hoped for (near perfect) for length and angles.
SO if they still going to crack - then I'm ditching them.

So had a little bend up








Real happy with the top and bottom run.
The triple bend run from gpu > cpu I'm not so happy with but will do for now.
Didn't have enough fittings on hand so used an SLI link between cards.
Rig's up & running with everything working, lucky +1


----------



## 15goudreau

Bummer....


----------



## Pheozero

Wow, that's quite lucky. Shame about the threaded tubes though.


----------



## Roikyou

That's a lot of bends, after doing this for the last few weeks, I know how difficult the triple bends are. I did the following from the top 480 radiator to the cpu in and found it was a little too long, had to heat it up to make it fit properly which ended up collapsing a little.



You can see where it collapsed



And then I sat back the next day and wondered why I did the double bend at the cpu, I could have just bent straight down, then to the cpu. So when I run this bend again in the next week (still waiting on my thumb to heal from my fittings giving me razor cuts), I'll clean up that bend from the 480 to the cpu in. (next bends will be the blue flex from 480 to 480 and then finally gpu to 480 (white, blue tube) will be my last bend for now)


----------



## 15goudreau

great progress!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I thought something like this would happen,the strength in a tube is in compression of the exterior,not expansion in the interior.
Damn shame tho Fate,it was a looker.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *15goudreau*
> 
> Bummer....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Wow, that's quite lucky. Shame about the threaded tubes though.


Indeed - could have been a whole lot worse than just making a few bent rods to complete the loop








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> That's a lot of bends, after doing this for the last few weeks, I know how difficult the triple bends are.


It's not so much the 3 bends, but more the close proximity to each other.
and I tried using the Monsoon 1/2" mandrels on 14mm OD tube which wasn't exactly ideal.
The 90 degree bends turned out not 90's even though all parts of the tube were touching the mandrels edges on both sides all the way around








Gave up trying to work out why that was - and freehand bent the adjustments.
When I redo that piece I'll use my old former


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I thought something like this would happen,the strength in a tube is in compression of the exterior,not expansion in the interior.
> Damn shame tho Fate,it was a looker.


Yeah - Thanks mate








Gave it a decent crack







and well, it's just not suitable - not reliable.


----------



## kingchris

lucky catch, you may need a bending kit to make them bends look good!!


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> lucky catch, you may need a bending kit to make them bends look good!!


Yeah I've got the Monsoon 1/2" mandrels and other stuffs which I used (as per previous post)
But I was/am using 14mm OD acrylic tube and while close to be bang on, isn't quite right.
I'm confident I'll get that run much better not using the mandrels with the 14mm


----------



## Ninhalem

Grr. Any tips to prevent the tubing from flowing over the mandrel when in mid bend? I don't want to waste anymore tubing if it just going to flow over the top in mid bend. Using primochill tube with the primochill insert (the one that came with the Monsoon bending kit was a little too loose I discovered during a practice run) and the 13 mm Monsoon mandrel.

Edit: It looks a lot worse in person than in the picture. The outer part of the bend is flattened where the rest of the material flowed over the sides of the mandrel.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> Grr. Any tips to prevent the tubing from flowing over the mandrel when in mid bend? I don't want to waste anymore tubing if it just going to flow over the top in mid bend. Using primochill tube with the primochill insert (the one that came with the Monsoon bending kit was a little too loose I discovered during a practice run) and the 13 mm Monsoon mandrel.
> 
> Edit: It looks a lot worse in person than in the picture. The outer part of the bend is flattened where the rest of the material flowed over the sides of the mandrel.


You need to hold the tubing on both side of the bend firmly against the mandrel. If you don't heat it enough and are forcing it to bend, then you need to adjust your heating method. The tubing needs to bend, like a nice soft piece of butter in that mandrel. Use two hands, one on either side of the bend and PULL the tubing into it and let it form around the mandrel while pulling with both hands.


----------



## Ninhalem

Nope that didn't work. Every time the tubing starts to get like putty (doesn't matter if on low heat, medium, or high), material bunches up around the place where I'm heating, usually a nice 2-3" space. Doesn't matter if I'm pulling the end of the tube around or not, the material still flows over the mold.

Edit: I am rotating the tubing around and panning back and forth to distribute the heat on the bend. I had a single 3 foot piece several months ago before I bought into acrylic that did not exhibit this bulging of the plastic at the heat point. Then I was using a home made jig and at the time this bulging of the material did not happen. I am suspecting that I have a bad batch of tubing, but then again. I shouldn't have to be pulling the material to stop the bulging before I even place the tube in the mandrel.


----------



## X-Nine

Never had that problem with my bends. I think your using the wrong Mandrel set for your size tubing. Should be using the red set for primochill tubing, not the blue set.

Edit: Was posting from my phone, PC is easier.

The description for the sets states:
Quote:


> "Mandrels are also color coded by tube size-*Red for 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm)* and Blue for 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) to make grabbing the right size easy for pro modders."


Since you're using a larger tubing size than what the blue Mandrel set was made for, you're essentially squeezing material into a space that cannot accommodate it, that's why it's forming the way it is.

I use the blue set as I only use E22 and Bitspower fittings...


----------



## Ninhalem

Just measured the tubing with a caliper and I came up with 13 mm on the dot. Inner diameter measures to 9.85 mm.

If it is truly the tubing, I just ordered some clear tubing from McMaster Carr and another single piece from Frozen but Monsoon this time.


----------



## lowfat

What bending cord are you using? Hollow or not?


----------



## Ninhalem

I'm using the supplied Primochill cord which is hollow. I tried using the solid cord that came in the mandrel set, but that diameter of cord was too small and amplified the bulging effect during heating.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Primochill tube is imperial,not metric. The monsoon bending cord will not work.
Also,I'm not entirely sure the Monsoon mandrels work correctly with it.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Never had that problem with my bends. I think your using the wrong Mandrel set for your size tubing. *Should be using the red set for primochill tubing, not the blue set.*
> 
> Edit: Was posting from my phone, PC is easier.
> 
> The description for the sets states:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> "Mandrels are also color coded by tube size-Red for 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) and Blue for 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) to make grabbing the right size easy for pro modders."
> 
> 
> 
> Since you're using a larger tubing size than what the blue Mandrel set was made for, you're essentially squeezing material into a space that cannot accommodate it, that's why it's forming the way it is.
> 
> I use the blue set as I only use E22 and Bitspower fittings...
Click to expand...

Sorry, but that's incorrect.

Primochill rigid acrylic tubing is 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD, and you need to use the blue mandrels, not the red ones. The Primochill tubing fits perfectly in the Monsoon kit's blue mandrels.

Hmmm, on a side note, just noticed Primochill now has PETG tubing also, the same size. Don't know that I've seen that mentioned here yet.

Anywho, I've never had any issues like Ninhalem is having bending the Primochill tubing using the blue mandrel set. If Ninhalem is using the blue mandrels then it's not due to the mandrel. You definitely do not want to be using the red mandrel set for Primochill tube.

Assuming Ninhalem is using the proper (blue) mandrel set, then my first guess would be not heating up enough of the tube. That seems to be the most common mistake people make. I always slowly heat up around a ~5" (13cm) section of tubing by turning and moving it back and forth until it's rubbery as a done spaghetti noodle, put one side on the mandrel and lightly pull/stretch the tube & cord around the mandrel and that always works rather well for me.


----------



## Ninhalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Assuming Ninhalem is using the proper (blue) mandrel set, then my first guess would be not heating up enough of the tube. That seems to be the most common mistake people make. I always slowly heat up around a ~5" (13cm) section of tubing by turning and moving it back and forth until it's rubbery as a done spaghetti noodle, put one side on the mandrel and lightly pull/stretch the tube & cord around the mandrel and that always works rather well for me.


I am using the blue mandrel kit. I'll try heating up a larger section of the tube when I get home. The material starts to bunch up around the heating zone before I even get noodle-like consistency.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> I am using the blue mandrel kit. I'll try heating up a larger section of the tube when I get home. The material starts to bunch up around the heating zone before I even get noodle-like consistency.


Hmmm, perhaps you are heating it up too close to the heatgun &/or at too high of a heat setting / too quickly?

Have you watched the Hardline Heatgun & the Primochill bending videos?n (links to both videos begin at the parts when they start to show the heating/bending)


----------



## Ninhalem

I've tried different heat settings and it doesn't matter whether I heat slow or fast, I still get the material bulging. I'll try your bigger-heating-section later when I get home from work.


----------



## lowfat

Heat on low. Heat up a wider section of tubing. 6 inches or so. Use the hollow bending cord. Do not press the tubing in to the bend at all. I had the same issue at the beginning because I was not heating it enough.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> I am using the blue mandrel kit. I'll try heating up a larger section of the tube when I get home. The material starts to bunch up around the heating zone before I even get noodle-like consistency.


Seems like if it's bunching up before you even get to bend, somethings not right. My heat gun has two settings 1000 and 1100 @ 1600w. I've yet to see bunching up, I've yet to boil or bubble, I use 1/2 blue mandrel 90 with mcmasters 1/2 imperial. The one flaws that I was doing is doing too much pressure with my fingers wrapping the bend around the 90 and you would see divot from your fingers instead of being smooth. I've yet to see the tube mold around the mandrel, my thought would be it would have to be pretty hot and the mandrel too small but the mandrel and tube fits...

I do the same also, about 2 inches from the pipe, around 4 or so inches of length, heat the length of the tube while rotating until I see it starting to give. If it's not a smooth bend, more heat, been working great for me but I went through a lot of acrylic finding my niche.

Last set of bends I've done...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> I've tried different heat settings and it doesn't matter whether I heat slow or fast, I still get the material bulging. I'll try your bigger-heating-section later when I get home from work.


Does it bulge in the inner radius?


----------



## Ninhalem

The bulge occurs on both the outside and inside. Imagine taking a piece of sleeving and pushing the ends together: you get that nice bulge in the middle which is good for sleeving, but not so much for tubing.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninhalem*
> 
> The bulge occurs on both the outside and inside. Imagine taking a piece of sleeving and pushing the ends together: you get that nice bulge in the middle which is good for sleeving, but not so much for tubing.


Its almost certainly technique related,the natural behaviour of the tube will stretch on the out and bunch on the inner,to have the middle just bulging out in all directions means force is being applied to both ends in to the plane of the tube.


----------



## Ninhalem

That maybe true, however, I'm rolling the tube and not applying any force through the center of the tube. If any force that I was applying it would have been in the opposite direction to counter act that collection of material.

Edit: Better to edit this than post anew: finally got the bend to go. Thanks to you Unicr0nhunter, the 5 to 6 inch heating zone did the trick. I eventually had to turn up the heat (had it set low low to prevent the same effect) so I wouldn't kill my middle back standing over the heat gun. Completed one of what I thought would be the harder runs. Turns out that it will probably be one of the easiest.


----------



## robert1978

Does anybody know what size o-ring that fits the primochill ridge fitting. Not the one that is around the pipe but the one in between the fitting and the water block. I have tried the monsoon and they just don't fit right.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robert1978*
> 
> Does anybody know what size o-ring that fits the primochill ridge fitting. Not the one that is around the pipe but the one in between the fitting and the water block. I have tried the monsoon and they just don't fit right.


Not 100% sure but when mine went I just drove down to my local auto parts store and searched through their "Dorman" bins which seemed to have damn near every size O-ring you could imagine. Ended up buying 12 of them but since they're not in a package I can't tell you their exact size.


----------



## Boweezie

Thought I might share my completed rig with acrylic pipes. Full build log in my sig


----------



## MedRed

That's beautiful!


----------



## kingchris

nice tube work!


----------



## Hasty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Thought I might share my completed rig with acrylic pipes. Full build log in my sig
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Lovely!


----------



## mrinfinit3

G-Damn this is tedious work!!! lol having fun though








Just want to confirm.... I purchased the Monsoon Economy Hard Line fittings (since I needed over 20 of them) and want to make sure that the "small" O-ring go into the top of the fitting and make contact with the tubing. Cause' so far I'm not liking these fittings too much. Think i may go back to the primochill...


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> G-Damn this is tedious work!!! lol having fun though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just want to confirm.... I purchased the Monsoon Economy Hard Line fittings (since I needed over 20 of them) and want to make sure that the "small" O-ring go into the top of the fitting and make contact with the tubing. Cause' so far I'm not liking these fittings too much. Think i may go back to the primochill...


That's correct, O-ring goes in top of fitting. And yeah, monsoon lost me as a customer with the silver plating on all the barbs/water touching parts.


----------



## seross69

W
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> That's correct, O-ring goes in top of fitting. And yeah, monsoon lost me as a customer with the silver plating on all the barbs/water touching parts.


I love the monsoon fittings especially the hardline fittings. I like all copper blocks..


----------



## Wolfsbora

I was just looking at getting the Monsoon Free Center Hardline fittings. Will these work with imperial measured tubing? Second, what is the best brand to go with? I see that some of your posts indicate that Monsoon isn't very good. I've seen that about Primochill too. Someone had posted an Australian brand of fittings that look great but I can't remember the name.


----------



## Frontside

Hi, folks.
Has anyone tried to use EK HD adapters? Are they good?
Thanks


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I was just looking at getting the Monsoon Free Center Hardline fittings. Will these work with imperial measured tubing? Second, what is the best brand to go with? I see that some of your posts indicate that Monsoon isn't very good. I've seen that about Primochill too. Someone had posted an Australian brand of fittings that look great but I can't remember the name.


A lot of it is personal preference. I actually love Monsoon fittings. Those and Bitspower are my two go-to brands for fittings and it would take a lot for that to change.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> A lot of it is personal preference. I actually love Monsoon fittings. Those and Bitspower are my two go-to brands for fittings and it would take a lot for that to change.


When I was considering flex tube I had every intention of buying Bitspower. The strength of the Monsoon grip has a pretty good appeal to me as I have a little one that will start walking soon. Less risk.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I was just looking at getting the Monsoon Free Center Hardline fittings. Will these work with imperial measured tubing? Second, what is the best brand to go with? I see that some of your posts indicate that Monsoon isn't very good. I've seen that about Primochill too. Someone had posted an Australian brand of fittings that look great but I can't remember the name.


Monsoon makes great fittings, but I'm personally not too fond of their recent decision to go with anti-microbial silver centers on all of them. I'm not too sure that having direct metal-to-metal contact with them screwed into copper, brass & nickel blocks/rads is such a good idea. Seems like a recipe for corrosion issues.

I believe these are probably the Australian brand you were thinking of ..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I have a discount code to pass along as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rocket Science have activated *fastfate0105* to receive *free shipping on orders over $50*
> It is definitely valid for all Australian residents and waiting on confirmation that it is good for overseas buyers.
> EDIT - *just got confirmation that the code is good for FREE shipping worldwide*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1/2" OD fittings designed for copper that work perfect with 1/2" OD acrylic tube also.
> They're awaiting arrival of black nickel batch.
> The silver nickel is in stock (which is what I got) look sensational and will be using them in my S_alive_8 build.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Monsoon makes great fittings, but I'm personally not too fond of their recent decision to go with anti-microbial silver centers on all of them. I'm not too sure that having direct metal-to-metal contact with them screwed into copper, brass & nickel blocks/rads is such a good idea. Seems like a recipe for corrosion issues.
> 
> I believe these are probably the Australian brand you were thinking of ..


I guess I missed the part about the silver centers... You're right, that is a lot of metallic types to be in one water filled loop.

Thanks for finding that post! I like those fittings. I hope they come out with the black nickel soon. The Monsoons are still on the table but I'm not as set on them now.


----------



## Jimhans1

The silver is the ONLY reason that monsoon lost me. Their fittings themselves are really great.

But I honestly do prefer the Primochill rigid fittings to the ones from Monsoon. I personally feel the hard lock feature is preying on the ignorant to a degree. Yes it's a "neat" feature, but unless your an OEM shipping these things assembled AND filled, kinda pointless.


----------



## lowfat

More people should let Monsoon know they do not like the silver fittings. When I mentioned it to him he got rather defensive and didn't seem to take my thoughts seriously.


----------



## Jimhans1

Same here. He was almost defensive to the point of being rude.


----------



## gdubc

I bought sets of orange and white original monsoon fittings for a dual loop setup and white chain guns for another and then black chrome for a third with various monsoon angle fittings and temp probes.

Gotta say I wouldn't have gotten any of it had I known then about the silver change. Pretty annoying really.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> More people should let Monsoon know they do not like the silver fittings. When I mentioned it to him he got rather defensive and didn't seem to take my thoughts seriously.


I read your comments to Geno and saw that he let the discussion die. So I've posted again in that thread in the hope to get some reaction.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Has to be added:
As fare as im aware, the silver is only on the inside, touching the water.. the silver does not have direct contact with the radiators / blocks.
Or though I agree that going with silver bases was a mistake from monsoon, I still find them awesome! and not a problem since I was already using distilled + silver coil when I bought them..


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Has to be added:
> As fare as im aware, the silver is only on the inside, touching the water.. the silver does not have direct contact with the radiators / blocks.
> Or though I agree that going with silver bases was a mistake from monsoon, I still find them awesome! and not a problem since I was already using distilled + silver coil when I bought them..


The entire barb part of all of Monsoon's fittings (hardline and compression), including the threads, are now antimicrobial silver coated. Here's Monsoon's Geno ('BoxGods' on XS) mentioning the fairly recent change:
Quote:


> *We recently switched all of our barbs over to antimicrobial silver* so not a mistake by your reseller...except maybe for not updating their pictures =)


This is what they used to look like:



And this is them after the change.



As you can see, the silver will be in direct contact with whatever it's screwed into. That's what I worry is a problem, and I'm apparently not the only one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ohhh, uh well it's not something I recommend. *Why did Monsoon start using silver for their fittings...*
> 
> 
> 
> Many of us have asked the same thing. I can only assume they figured it would be regarded as a plus, but clearly not everyone thinks so.
> 
> I don't know if I'd want a silver fitting screwed into nickel, copper or brass threads on a block or a rad. There's enough of a difference in galvanic potential there between them that I would be worried about the direct contact regardless of whether a corrosion inhibiting coolant was used. A silver coil in a res or a tube is one thing, but direct metal to metal contact is another isn't it? Am I wrong to think that might be an issue?
> 
> edit: FWIW, Martin seems to think it might be something to worry about.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> Silver coils in the res is one side but direct electrical contact is something else entirely.
> My concern is the fitting 'welding' itself in more than anything else....
Click to expand...


----------



## Wolfsbora

I'm grateful for all of the information regarding the fittings. I think that I may give Rocketscience some business. His fittings look well made. I'm hoping that the black nickel fittings become available soon. The fittings are one of the last things that I need to do the build.

On a side note, I order 24' of acrylic tube from McMasters-Carr and 6' of the silicone insert. I figure that will give me plenty of extra tubing for my inevitable screw-ups. You folks have been great with helping me out!


----------



## GaMbi2004

I cant seam to find the text.. But I'm fairly sure someone from monsoon said that the threat is ether coated or not silver (dont remember) so no direct metal to silver contact..
Having said that, if the base is all silver and plated threats to prevent silver to metal contact, that plating would be easily damaged and allow for direct silver to metal contact..
I have PMed a guy from monsoon to see if we can get any further info on this.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm holding / looking at a Monsoon fitting right now. The entire barb-part of the fitting is uniformly one coating. There's not a different coating for the part that makes up the water channel than what's on the threads. If anyone tries to say different I say bulloney.


----------



## GaMbi2004

I hope that is not true.. otherwise, monsoon is lying about their product..
I dont have any loose fittings to check up, but I thought that the inside and outside had a slight different shine to it, indicating that it indeed is two different metals / coating used..
My fittings are the ones for acrylic though, so maybe not the same?

Anyways.. I have no idea, but I will come back when monsoon answers.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> I hope that is not true.. otherwise, monsoon is lying about their product..
> I dont have any loose fittings to check up, but I thought that the inside and outside had a slight different shine to it, indicating that it indeed is two different metals / coating used..
> My fittings are the ones for acrylic though, so maybe not the same?
> 
> Anyways.. I have no idea, but I will come back when monsoon answers.


I'm really curious about this!


----------



## GaMbi2004

alright.. It seams I was wrong.. it is indeed silver all over.. both the barb (for soft tubing) and base (for acrylic) is made of one piece of brass, then plated with antimicrobial silver (also the threads).

Here is the mail I got:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Howdy =)
> 
> Yes I am form Monsoon and designed the fittings.
> 
> Sorry about the "book" below but I figure if you took the time to write I can take the time to answer =)
> 
> The entire barb is machined from marine grade brass and plated in antimicrobial silver. I know people love to talk about galvanic corrosion in the forums and get really worked up about it. Then someone invariably breaks out "the chart" and then one of the companies that makes blocks (and sells expensive cash cow fluids) will caution against using silver.
> 
> The reality with that chart is that it discusses corrosion in a marine environment and is related to marine structure time frames. In other words sea water and very expensive ships and oil rigs that are expected to last 30+ years.
> 
> If you look at the link below about halfway down you will see the sentence: "The table below reports the Corrosion potentials in flowing sea water at ambient temperature. ".
> 
> http://www.corrosionist.com/galvanic_corrosion_chart.htm
> 
> Our fittings are designed for serious water coolers who will most likely be running Distilled or Deionized water because no other fluid cools as well. Period. As soon as you mention that somebody will leap in and tell you that over time even DI gains a little electrical conductivity. Although that is true it is also misleading as the electrical gain over say six months or a year is very small (nowhere near sea water levels) and is much slower then the tarnish speed of the silver which brings us to the next point the chart doesn't cover.
> 
> It doesn't consider is how fast silver tarnishes. This tarnish doesn't hurt it's antimicrobial properties (it is a good way to know it is doing it's job in fact) but it KILLS the electrical potential of the silver. A real world common sense example of this are high end Audio cables. If silver is the most electrically conductive metal and sells for $20 an ounce why are the plugs of high performance cables plated in gold which is $1,200 an ounce? Because gold does not tarnish and silver tarnishes very rapidly.
> 
> More real world common sense. Do a Google search for "gold plated water block". Over the last 15 years or so just about every major manufacturer has done at least one limited edition gold plated block. If anyone paying North of $150 for a gold plated block had had corrosion issues you can bet there would be pictures plastered all over the net in every forum. Some of those companies also sell fluids now...
> 
> So short answer. If your not running salt water in your loop I would not worry about it. If your still worried a very simple and cheap method of insulating the threads from contact is teflon plumbers tape. It is about $2.00 a roll at any hardware store and is dirt simple to use. If your not familiar with it it is not a true tape in that there is no sticky stuff on it. Obviously don't wrap it on past the threads (under the O ring) and you still need the O ring of course.
> 
> If your not sure what plumbers Teflon tape is or how to use it I would be happy to send a link via email. you can email me at [email protected] if you have any more questions.
> 
> I hope this helps, and sorry about the loong reply =)






He states that the fears that some folks have, isnt justified. that the silver contact wont course corrosion. (read the spoiler for more info)

I have been running distilled water + silver coils for over 6 months, and dont see any corrosion in my system as of yet.. but I havent used the silver fittings for that long, so I cant say anything about corrosion with direct silver to metal contact yet..
Or though he implicates that there should not be any corrosion with their fittings, he DID suggest to use plumbers tape to those who worries about the direct contact.

I think Im gonna check one of my brass radiators some time soon to see if any corrosion is forming.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> alright.. It seams I was wrong.. it is indeed silver all over.. both the barb (for soft tubing) and base (for acrylic) is made of one piece of brass, then plated with antimicrobial silver (also the threads).
> 
> Here is the mail I got:
> 
> He states that the fears that some folks have, isnt justified. that the silver contact wont course corrosion. (read the spoiler for more info)
> 
> I have been running distilled water + silver coils for over 6 months, and dont see any corrosion in my system as of yet.. but I havent used the silver fittings for that long, so I cant say anything about corrosion with direct silver to metal contact yet..
> Or though he implicates that there should not be any corrosion with their fittings, he DID suggest to use plumbers tape to those who worries about the direct contact.
> 
> I think Im gonna check one of my brass radiators some time soon to see if any corrosion is forming.


Man, this is disappointing. I wonder why Monsoon didn't make it optional like Bitspower and other brands. His idea to use plumbers tape is not at all a remedy. That tape often splits as the threads screw down. It isn't even a bandaid. It looks like Rocketscience will be the way to go... I really like how they look. The price isn't bad either!

Thanks for following up, GamBi2004!


----------



## mrinfinit3

Has anyone tried frosting the tubing yet? If so; any pics?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Has anyone tried frosting the tubing yet? If so; any pics?


Here's a couple from this thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fakeblood*
> 
> Frosted my acrylic tubing. Gives it a completely different effect
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC00632_zpsabf48f59.jpg.html


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ModestMeowth*
> 
> 
> Frosted my Primochill tubing, pastel doesn't look to good so likely will switch to just a dye.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Ah! Thank you very much








Had a buddy stop by today while I was bending and wants to go hard line now. He has all the EK frosted tops on everything so we were just curious


----------



## lowfat

It is much much easier to do the sanding before you bend. 400 grit in a single direction will give a nice brushed look.

http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-84.jpg.html


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It is much much easier to do the sanding before you bend. 400 grit in a single direction will give a nice brushed look.
> 
> http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-84.jpg.html


Now all you need on the tubing are the crop circles.


----------



## Jimhans1

@lowfat
Ok, so you polished the blocks, and then frosted the tubes? Hmm, interesting.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Now all you need on the tubing are the crop circles.


I would pay good money for CSQ acrylic tubing.







@derickwm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jimhans1*
> 
> @lowfat
> Ok, so you polished the blocks, and then frosted the tubes? Hmm, interesting.


It was just a test. I didn't like it for this build. Doing this instead.
http://s18.photobucket.com/user/tulcakelume/media/PCA77F/export-1-30.jpg.html


----------



## derickwm

Olawd


----------



## kingchris

got these


on first impressions ive very impressed!


----------



## MedRed

please, derick, impress upon EK the desire for transparent clear blocks instead of frosted blocks! It'd be nice to have polished GPU blocks without voiding my warranty.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> please, derick, impress upon EK the desire for transparent clear blocks instead of frosted blocks! It'd be nice to have polished GPU blocks without voiding my warranty.


^ This... And the creation of an acrylic terminal bridge link for non-CSQ blocks. Because ordinary crystal links are just blah.


----------



## gdubc

Second the acrylic bridge. It's a bummer having to go with black acetal when every other part of my loop is nickel/clean acrylic.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> alright.. It seams I was wrong.. it is indeed silver all over.. both the barb (for soft tubing) and base (for acrylic) is made of one piece of brass, then plated with antimicrobial silver (also the threads).
> 
> Here is the mail I got:
> 
> He states that the fears that some folks have, isnt justified. that the silver contact wont course corrosion. (read the spoiler for more info)
> 
> I have been running distilled water + silver coils for over 6 months, and dont see any corrosion in my system as of yet.. but I havent used the silver fittings for that long, so I cant say anything about corrosion with direct silver to metal contact yet..
> Or though he implicates that there should not be any corrosion with their fittings, he DID suggest to use plumbers tape to those who worries about the direct contact.
> 
> I think Im gonna check one of my brass radiators some time soon to see if any corrosion is forming.
> 
> 
> 
> Man, this is disappointing. I wonder why Monsoon didn't make it optional like Bitspower and other brands. His idea to use plumbers tape is not at all a remedy. That tape often splits as the threads screw down. It isn't even a bandaid. It looks like Rocketscience will be the way to go... I really like how they look. The price isn't bad either!
> 
> Thanks for following up, GamBi2004!
Click to expand...

Do it,the owner is a nice guy and an enthusiast also,He has offered to send me a set of 4 for testing,I am going to take him up on that I think.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do it,the owner is a nice guy and an enthusiast also,He has offered to send me a set of 4 for testing,I am going to take him up on that I think.


My 24' of acrylic just arrived today from McMasters-Carr! My next order will be to Rocketscience. I'd take him up on that offer for sure! I like the idea of supporting an enthusiast and an independent business owner.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> My next order will be to Rocketscience. I'd take him up on that offer for sure! I like the idea of supporting an enthusiast and an independent business owner.


That's great, but just so you know: Geno from Monsoon is also a water cooling enthusiast and independent business owner.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That's great, but just so you know: Geno from Monsoon is also a water cooling enthusiast and independent business owner.


That's awesome! Sounds like he has been really successful.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> My next order will be to Rocketscience. I'd take him up on that offer for sure! I like the idea of supporting an enthusiast and an independent business owner.
> 
> 
> 
> That's great, but just so you know: Geno from Monsoon is also a water cooling enthusiast and independent business owner.
Click to expand...

He is indeed...you are forgetting he is a talented designer also.
I'm glad he gave primoschill the finger.....


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He is indeed...you are forgetting he is a talented designer also.
> I'm glad he gave primoschill the finger.....


The free center fittings are completely original. I love the design.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He is indeed...you are forgetting he is a talented designer also.


I didn't forget. Pretty much 90% of the fittings I've used in last two builds and one in progress are Monsoon


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He is indeed...you are forgetting he is a talented designer also.
> I'm glad he gave primoschill the finger.....


I've happily used the free center compression fittings in the 7/16x5/8" size in my last three builds, one red, one blue, and then a red with black carbon fiber marketed by ModMyToys. As compression fittings, I think they are the best aesthetically and quality wise, but Geno lost getting my money with the Hard Lock feature on his Rigid fittings, then lost me as a customer on the compression AND the "budget" Hardline when HE took away our choice on whether we run silver in our loop or not. It was his business choice, so it is what it is, but as a consumer, it's my choice not to buy them. I don't know what went on between Geno and Primochill, and I don't rightly care at this point, because as rigid compression style fittings for 1/2" OD tubing that do not use silver in them, they are now the only choice. So I have several dozens of them here to do the next 3 builds I have going, I wanted to use Geno's budget fittings for one of them, but alas, the damn silver shot that down...









As a small business owner twice over, I love supporting other SBOs, but I think it should be our choice if we want them with silver barbs/bases or not.


----------



## cyphon

Have any of you guys used Primochill's bender yet?
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23740/too-158/PrimoChill_-_Versatile_Rigid_Tubing_Bender_-_Clear_RBEND.html?tl=g30c633s2087#blank

Also, if you have, have you also used the Monsoon Mandrels and which did you like better?


----------



## Neo Zuko

That looks so cool for bending!!


----------



## mrinfinit3

Guy on fleebay just listed a couple sets of the primochill revolver fittings:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/rbra70557/m.html?item=271487493116&hash=item3f35ea63fc&pt=US_Water_Cooling&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2562


----------



## Buzz247

Lil info on primochill tubing - It seems Primochill is pushing their PETG tubing due to known issues with reliability of first gen tubing. I have been in discussion with primochill about my tubing issues and they are encouraging swapping to PETG. Just food for thought. I have had the same issues with ID variance causing air gapping on the insert, and this causes uneven heating issues (such as flattening, kinking, bubbling etc.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Have any of you guys used Primochill's bender yet?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23740/too-158/PrimoChill_-_Versatile_Rigid_Tubing_Bender_-_Clear_RBEND.html?tl=g30c633s2087#blank
> 
> Also, if you have, have you also used the Monsoon Mandrels and which did you like better?


Interesting. Hadn't even heard of that before. PPCs has this video posted on the page with it:





After watching that I'm not so sure how useful it would actually be. Doesn't seem to rival the Monsoon kit in any way. I appreciate the headsup but I think I might have to pass on that one.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Lil info on primochill tubing - It seems Primochill is pushing their PETG tubing due to known issues with reliability of first gen tubing. I have been in discussion with primochill about my tubing issues and they are encouraging swapping to PETG. Just food for thought. I have had the same issues with ID variance causing air gapping on the insert, and this causes uneven heating issues (such as flattening, kinking, bubbling etc.


Yup, got the same answer from them. Except; I was told that my recent weather could be the issue as well...bull****.....
Just made an order with S&W Plastics in San Bernardino, Ca. who beat Mc Masters prices by 60% (including shipping)







. Not going to risk wasting my time on the primochill tubing anymore if I don't have to. (Will however buy their fittings next time around though unless those change too) Bending cord would be a tight fit in most places but extremely loose in others... Not sure if it's just a bad batch or what.
Clear pic of what he was describing:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Why do they think that we would believe that? If the tube is affected by the weather then its certainly not acceptable for WC use.....
Was that the excuse for the PETG or acrylic?


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why do they think that we would believe that? If the tube is affected by the weather then its certainly not acceptable for WC use.....
> Was that the excuse for the PETG or acrylic?


Acrylic


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Why do they think that we would believe that? If the tube is affected by the weather then its certainly not acceptable for WC use.....
> Was that the excuse for the PETG or acrylic?
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic
Click to expand...

So nothing to do with sloppy manufacture? Its the weather?

Fail.
Much fail.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Lil info on primochill tubing - It seems Primochill is pushing their PETG tubing due to known issues with reliability of first gen tubing. I have been in discussion with primochill about my tubing issues and they are encouraging swapping to PETG. Just food for thought. I have had the same issues with ID variance causing air gapping on the insert, and this causes uneven heating issues (such as flattening, kinking, bubbling etc.


The issue with the varying ID of Primochill's acrylic has been well known from the get-go. Primochill mentions the issue in their bending how-to videos which is why they suggest using sandpaper on the insert and olive oil as a lubricant. The varying ID can make using the insert a bit tricky, especially if you use Priochill's insert.

FWIW I use a piece of 9mm o-ring cord from mcmaster-carr for my insert (as suggested by IT Diva) and silicone grease as a lubricant and it works a lot better BUT after working with the Primochill tubing as much as I have I can definitely say that issues like 'flattening, kinking, bubbling' have nothing at all to do with 'air gapping on the insert' and everything to do with how you are heating and bending the tube. Sounds like you need to heat a larger area of tube (for a 90 deg bend I try to heat a ~5"- 6" section) more slowly until the tube is completely rubbery. Watch some bending videos to see what I mean. Practice makes perfect.


----------



## Buzz247

I WISH my tube being to big and ID being too small was the issue - lubricant?? Half of my tubing didn't need it!! It slid in no problem! Which tells you of a major issue right there. Look at MrInfinity's pic above to understand what I was talking about


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Trust me, half of my Primochill tubing the insert fit loose, and half it fit tight. Very few pieces has it ever fit 'just right'. The thing is, that doesn't affect the bends. You might think it does, but if you have issues with "flattening, kinking, bubbling" etc it's not the ID of the tube that's the problem. I know. I literally destroyed all four of the 2' pieces in my first order of Primochill tubing learning the hard way. The only piece I had useable from that first 8' of tubing was one that didn't need a bend. It wasn't until I got 24' of McMaster-Carr tubing and went through at least one full 6' tube of it just practicing that I started to realize what all I had been doing wrong, and even once I got it pretty well down pat I found that the Primochill tubing is a little bit different to work with and has its own learning curve. I actually now find the Primochill tubing is easier to work with than the McMaster-Carr, but it took me having a mountain of scrap pieces before I ever got close to that point.

Had I watched a few more videos and read and asked questions here in this forum first and heeded advice I know I could have gotten the hang of it a lot quicker without so much waste, but I can be stubborn and hardheaded and I do like to learn things on my own, even if it turns out being the hard way. That's just how I roll.


----------



## Buzz247

ok - help me understand this part then - that is the only variable I could pin down. I would use one/two piece, bend fine and turn out beautiful. Do the exact same on the next set and have issues. Only variable I could pin was fit of the insert. Order more tube, bend issues and loose fit. Order more tube, tight fit beautiful bends, etc etc etc. Seemed to be batch variable with the insert fit. If I did it the same way each time, how come the different results and always in correlation with the fit? Not saying you are wrong - saying only logical conclusion I can reach

Look at my build log and you can see I went thru a hella wasteful learning curve too lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

My money is on cheap tube with a poor extrusion technique....only Primochill have this issue,its very well known.


----------



## lowfat

Never had any issues with any of the Primochill acrylic tubing I had. I did 4 systems and used about 60 feet of it so far. I can definitely say they did not fit loose inside of the compression fitting.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Never had any issues with any of the Primochill acrylic tubing I had. I did 4 systems and used about 60 feet of it so far. I can definitely say they did not fit loose inside of the compression fitting.


no one was talking about the fit inside the compression fitting







Re read... reading comprehension is important when attempting to participate in discussions on forums


----------



## seross69

I know one thing for sure and that is I have monsoon hardline, primochill, and E22. and you could not pay me to use the E22 or primochill compared to the monsoon. As a matter of fact compared I think I would actually pay 2 times as much to not have to use the E22


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> My money is on cheap tube with a poor extrusion technique....only Primochill have this issue,its very well known.


I am tending to agree with you - I have no doubt you would get a kick out of my discussions with Primochill so far, but sadly, I don't think I can share them due to this lil blurb:
Quote:


> This correspondence and any files transmitted with it are property of Tyler Industries, LLC and are intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom this correspondence is addressed. This email/support ticket and any attached files are confidential and may be privileged communication. Any other use, retention, dissemination, publishing, forwarding, printing or copying of this email/support ticket/correspondence is strictly prohibited and may result in refusal of support and/or legal action. We reserve the right to refuse service to any customer. Use of inappropriate language and/or threats to any individual or our company as a whole will not be tolerated. This includes threats to post online and our in forums. Violation of any of this with result in closing of your ticket and loss of any further support. Thank you for your cooperation.


Suffice it to say... not impressed nor happy. baseline expectations offered - not a smidge more and real slap in the face of vendors and customers. Monsoon you say? may check it out next build.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> I am tending to agree with you - I have no doubt you would get a kick out of my discussions with Primochill so far, but sadly, I don't think I can share them due to this lil blurb:
> Suffice it to say... not impressed nor happy. baseline expectations offered - not a smidge more and real slap in the face of vendors and customers. Monsoon you say? may check it out next build.


Monsoon is awesome tubing be sure of this. what I like best of all is you can get 1/2" id!!!! I know you don't need it but it is nice to have the option..


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> no one was talking about the fit inside the compression fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re read... reading comprehension is important when attempting to participate in discussions on forums


So is being courteous, and keeping stupid comments to yourself. Proper forum etiquette I do believe.


----------



## midnightgypsy

Not to plug a web company. But, I had better sucess with bending the acrylic lines from Delvies Plastics... 18 feet of 1/2 tubes with shipping was a lil less than $20... The Primochill was very fragile and delicate.... On a side note looking for the best price. I called a local well known company. To get prices on 1/2 acrylic. He had no idea what WC was. But, was very quick to quote. His I can do you a favor price at $5 a foot with a minium order of 15 feet... I laugh so loud.... I told him he could sh** and fall back in it.... I couldn't believe his price.... Russ

This was not a slam on Primochill..... Just my own opinion. I love their products and their outside the box thinking....


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> no one was talking about the fit inside the compression fitting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Re read... reading comprehension is important when attempting to participate in discussions on forums


Sorry. But I haven't had issues with using the hollow bending cord either.


----------



## Goggle Eye

Not done hard line tubing or bent any acrylic tubing just curious and plan to in the future and spent some time reading this post thank you all. Only concern is the inside diameter of the tubing restricting the water flow to much?

Have built a few projects using Cell Cast and used Weld On 4 to bond the joints then used a propane torch to polish the edges of the acrylic not an expert by any means.

Is the tubing MFG process extruded process or cell cast? Sure the wholesalers have both types of tubing. That could explain the differences in OD diameter in the tubing and why some of you are having issues with bubbles with the bending process and the tubing diameter not being uniform. In other words one piece of tubing having a smaller diameter than another piece of tubing when the specs call for the same OD or ID diameter.

Not 100 percent sure but the MFG process would either be Extruded or Cell Cast Process? Cell Cast has a lot longer MFG time increases the cost of the item compared to extruded acrylic rather fast process of MFG the item.

Monsoon and primoChill which tubing are they purchasing I am sure they are not MFG the tubing having one opr two MFG process the tubing ofr them or purchasing from a supplier not the MFG company?

Bitspower, Monsoon, Primochill and EK are fine companies not bad mouthing them the cost of MFG Acrylic tubing is not a cheap process.

Canned tomatoes, peaches come from the same canning company they just run a different label called a brand.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Something about opening a large package of 10x 6ft long tubes is just awesome








Maybe it's just me lol


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm unaware of anyone who makes cast acrylic tubing smaller than ~1.5" OD. If you want to make your own reservoir or the like, then yeah, but nothing in small enough sizes to use as watercooling tubing that I've ever heard of. That's all extruded afaik.


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> please, derick, impress upon EK the desire for transparent clear blocks instead of frosted blocks! It'd be nice to have polished GPU blocks without voiding my warranty.


Umm what. We make these, have been for a long time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> please, derick, impress upon EK the desire for transparent clear blocks instead of frosted blocks! It'd be nice to have polished GPU blocks without voiding my warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> ^ This... And the creation of an acrylic terminal bridge link for non-CSQ blocks. Because ordinary crystal links are just blah.
Click to expand...

Been in the works.


----------



## Sp3ak

Hey guys i've got primochill acrylic tube 3/8 ID 1/2 O and ive got primochill ghost compression fittings but they only have straight fittings and im needing some 90 fittings and maybe couple 45 degree fittings so does anyone know what angle fittings i can get to work with my primochill tube. Thanks


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp3ak*
> 
> Hey guys i've got primochill acrylic tube 3/8 ID 1/2 O and ive got primochill ghost compression fittings but they only have straight fittings and im needing some 90 fittings and maybe couple 45 degree fittings so does anyone know what angle fittings i can get to work with my primochill tube. Thanks


Why can't you just screw your primochill ghost fitting into an angle fitting?

Here's a few Primochill Rigid Revolvers w/ Bitspower angle rotaries:



Why the need for so many angle fittings? Are you not wanting to do any bends with the acrylic and just use angle fittings instead?


----------



## Wolfsbora

What is the closest a 90 degree bend in the tube can be from the fitting?


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What is the closest a 90 degree bend in the tube can be from the fitting?


Personally I wouldn't go closer than 1.5-2" due to the need to push back the cap over the tube during seating

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Why can't you just screw your primochill ghost fitting into an angle fitting?
> 
> Here's a few Primochill Rigid Revolvers w/ Bitspower angle rotaries:
> 
> 
> 
> Why the need for so many angle fittings? Are you not wanting to do any bends with the acrylic and just use angle fittings instead?


Kinda wondering the same thing....? Any angle fitting can be used between the block and the ghost tube fitting to make the angle you need.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sp3ak*
> 
> Hey guys i've got primochill acrylic tube 3/8 ID 1/2 O and ive got primochill ghost compression fittings but they only have straight fittings and im needing some 90 fittings and maybe couple 45 degree fittings so does anyone know what angle fittings i can get to work with my primochill tube. Thanks


But why????? Why not just bend the tube as needed? That's the main draw of hardline tubing - not extra fittings and flow restrictions involved. That and the sleek look of no massive gob looking fitting and adapter bunches messing up the sleek look. But - if you really just don't want to bend - any adapter will work. Fitting--->adapter---->block TADA!


----------



## Sp3ak

i just wanted a couple for the bottoms of my reservoirs so i didnt have to many that sharp of a bend. So they have bitspowers with 1/4 in thread on both ends?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Personally I wouldn't go closer than 1.5-2" due to the need to push back the cap over the tube during seating


Awesome. I'm trying to avoid all of the extra fittings as explained above. I really want it to be as clean as possible. +1!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> What is the closest a 90 degree bend in the tube can be from the fitting?


I can get my bends about 25mm from the fittings,dependant on bend quality and deformation.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I can get my bends about 25mm from the fittings,dependant on bend quality and deformation.


That is about 1"... I'm sure your experience helps to make that possible


----------



## Roikyou

Don't remember if I posted where I'm at with my build, could call it finished but I never quit messing with things...


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That is about 1"... I'm sure your experience helps to make that possible


Actually the most simple way of accomplishing a "tight" bend would be to bend 1st and cut to length after.








Makes obvious sense ,I know... But you don't how many people (vids) I've scene that cut 1st then attempt to bend only to come up short, have the wrong angle, or have the bend itself interfere with the fitting.


----------



## cyphon

Woot! Monsoon mandels and cutting kit got here yesterday











Now to plan out the loop and start bending


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> That is about 1"... I'm sure your experience helps to make that possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually the most simple way of accomplishing a "tight" bend would be to bend 1st and cut to length after.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes obvious sense ,I know... But you don't how many people (vids) I've scene that cut 1st then attempt to bend only to come up short, have the wrong angle, or have the bend itself interfere with the fitting.
Click to expand...

This is what you should be doing anyway,precutting and trying to bend does not work. Bend,leaving long tails,then trim to size.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> This is what you should be doing anyway,precutting and trying to bend does not work. Bend,leaving long tails,then trim to size.


Most definitely. Otherwise there would most definitely be flat spots or the tube could just flatten on itself. Thanks to you and @mrinfinit3 for the advice! +1


----------



## Alastair

So I am rebuilding my PC very shortly. And I have met a problem. I am stuck between choosing Standard tubing or Acrylic pipe. Normal tubing simply because it is fairly easy to do. But I really would like to go the pipe route simply because it looks so awesome. But I had a few concerns.

Mainly how to do it. Now I saw The Acrylic Pipe Bending 101 thread so I think I can do it. But how do you measure up all the distances for the pipes accurately? Also once the loop is all built up and ready to go. How easy is it to get a component out should something go bad, or if I want to clean my loop?

EDIT: Can you get 3/4'' OD acrylic pipe? Otherwise everything will be off cause I will have to get new fittings and stuff.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

You can get 3/4 od acrylic, but I haven't seen any compression fittings that'll work with that acrylic. I could be wrong though. There have been people who thread the tube and use male to male fittings, but I tried and I didn't like the way it held.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> You can get 3/4 od acrylic, but I haven't seen any compression fittings that'll work with that acrylic. I could be wrong though. There have been people who thread the tube and use male to male fittings, but I tried and I didn't like the way it held.


So even though I have fittings for 3/4 OD I would still likely need different fittings anyway?


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So I am rebuilding my PC very shortly. And I have met a problem. I am stuck between choosing Standard tubing or Acrylic pipe. Normal tubing simply because it is fairly easy to do. But I really would like to go the pipe route simply because it looks so awesome. But I had a few concerns.
> 
> Mainly how to do it. Now I saw The Acrylic Pipe Bending 101 thread so I think I can do it. But how do you measure up all the distances for the pipes accurately? Also once the loop is all built up and ready to go. How easy is it to get a component out should something go bad, or if I want to clean my loop?
> 
> EDIT: Can you get 3/4'' OD acrylic pipe? Otherwise everything will be off cause I will have to get new fittings and stuff.


How I did it was measure the distance from the start of the tubing and your first bend and go from there measuring each step and add about inch for cutting also add a drainport to the lowest part of your loop usually a ball valve

Acrylic looks way better than standard

I did all mine freehand


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So I am rebuilding my PC very shortly. And I have met a problem. I am stuck between choosing Standard tubing or Acrylic pipe. Normal tubing simply because it is fairly easy to do. But I really would like to go the pipe route simply because it looks so awesome. But I had a few concerns.
> 
> Mainly how to do it. Now I saw The Acrylic Pipe Bending 101 thread so I think I can do it. But how do you measure up all the distances for the pipes accurately? Also once the loop is all built up and ready to go. How easy is it to get a component out should something go bad, or if I want to clean my loop?
> 
> EDIT: Can you get 3/4'' OD acrylic pipe? Otherwise everything will be off cause I will have to get new fittings and stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> How I did it was measure the distance from the start of the tubing and your first bend and go from there measuring each step and add about inch for cutting also add a drainport to the lowest part of your loop usually a ball valve
> 
> Acrylic looks way better than standard
> 
> I did all mine freehand
Click to expand...

How easy is it to remove parts if something dies or you want to do some cleaning. I looks like I won't be doing this anyways cause it seems I will need new fittings as well?


----------



## charliebrown

Pretty easy once you drain your loop what fitting do you have now the acrylic I got was $3 per 6 feet from mcmaster


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> How easy is it to remove parts if something dies or you want to do some cleaning. I looks like I won't be doing this anyways cause it seems I will need new fittings as well?


Straight forward, same part, reuse the same bends, if not, as mentioned, you'll make a new bend for the new part. I went from 780 ti to 295x2, so the distance changed, so I had to do two new bends, I guess that would be the downfall, flex tube is more forgiving.

780 ti and a couple flex to replace



to 295x2


----------



## Jimhans1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So even though I have fittings for 3/4 OD I would still likely need different fittings anyway?


Yes, fittings for soft tube are not compatible with rigid tubing, and vice versa for rigid tube fittings, they use different forms of retaining the tubing between the different styles.


----------



## charliebrown

3/8 acrylic fittings are better looking to me


----------



## ozzy1925

guys which tool should i use to cut the 12mm tubing and smooth ending?This look useless and expensive to me:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22336/too-131/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Cutting_Kit_-_38_x_12_13mm.html?tl=c133s2087b213&id=RarKbASP&mv_pc=433


----------



## X-Nine

That's actually the tools you use.


----------



## ozzy1925

is it possible to buy only the red plastic?Because i think Turkish customs wont allow me to get the saw


----------



## X-Nine

Should be. All it is, is a tubing reamer. Should be able to get one locally at a hardware store.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Should be. All it is, is a tubing reamer. Should be able to get one locally at a hardware store.


I couldn't find one at Lowe's. FCPU has one for $10US but that seems quite expensive!


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> is it possible to buy only the red plastic?Because i think Turkish customs wont allow me to get the saw


Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Inner-Outer-Copper-Tubing-Reamer/dp/B00BYHMS5I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401200507&sr=8-1&keywords=tubing+reamer

You can find a high tooth per inch saw with 6 inch blades in any local hardware store that will work the same. Just pay attention to the direction of the blade...

As far as the miter box, found it difficult to use, easier to do by hand, I ended up cutting the miter box quite a bit but got good with cutting by hand.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I couldn't find one at Lowe's. FCPU has one for $10US but that seems quite expensive!


Lowes sells one but at $22 it's pretty overpriced - not really any different from one you can get for under $10 US on ebay.

If you're using push-fit fittings where any little snag on an o-ring can cause a leak then you will benefit from using the reamer, but for Primochill's compressions it's not really all that necessary to clean up the edge with one as long as the cut end was clean/straight. I tend to just use a gloved finger to knock the shavings off the end and go with that. I do however like using the miter for helping get a clean straight cut.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Lowes sells one but at $22 it's pretty overpriced - not really any different from one you can get for under $10 US on ebay.
> 
> If you're using push-fit fittings where any little snag on an o-ring can cause a leak then you will benefit from using the reamer, but for Primochill's compressions it's not really all that necessary to clean up the edge with one as long as the cut end was clean/straight. I tend to just use a gloved finger to knock the shavings off the end and go with that. I do however like using the miter for helping get a clean straight cut.


I'll be using Rocket Science fittings. One of Matt's demos on his site showed what a burred tube will do to the O-ring.

+1 for you and Roikyou for your help!


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I couldn't find one at Lowe's. FCPU has one for $10US but that seems quite expensive!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Amazon
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Inner-Outer-Copper-Tubing-Reamer/dp/B00BYHMS5I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1401200507&sr=8-1&keywords=tubing+reamer
> 
> You can find a high tooth per inch saw with 6 inch blades in any local hardware store that will work the same. Just pay attention to the direction of the blade...
> 
> As far as the miter box, found it difficult to use, easier to do by hand, I ended up cutting the miter box quite a bit but got good with cutting by hand.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Lowes sells one but at $22 it's pretty overpriced - not really any different from one you can get for under $10 US on ebay.
> 
> If you're using push-fit fittings where any little snag on an o-ring can cause a leak then you will benefit from using the reamer, but for Primochill's compressions it's not really all that necessary to clean up the edge with one as long as the cut end was clean/straight. I tend to just use a gloved finger to knock the shavings off the end and go with that. I do however like using the miter for helping get a clean straight cut.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'll be using Rocket Science fittings. One of Matt's demos on his site showed what a burred tube will do to the O-ring.
> 
> +1 for you and Roikyou for your help!


thanks,i will look for these


----------



## lowfat

You can easily clean the edges with a file.


----------



## Roikyou

I ended up with the reamer from the kit and it was one thing I used on every cut along with 400 grit sand paper, then rinsed the tube out, worked rather well, no leaks or snagged o-rings. For less than three bucks on amazon, definitely a cheaper route to go. The saw worked with no issues unless I put the blade in backwards, which I ended up marking one end of the blade as the teeth were fine enough I would easily forget the direction of the blade. Cuts horrible when the blades in backwards, learning experience...


----------



## MrBlunt




----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Have any of you guys used Primochill's bender yet?
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/23740/too-158/PrimoChill_-_Versatile_Rigid_Tubing_Bender_-_Clear_RBEND.html?tl=g30c633s2087#blank
> 
> Also, if you have, have you also used the Monsoon Mandrels and which did you like better?
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. Hadn't even heard of that before. PPCs has this video posted on the page with it:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After watching that I'm not so sure how useful it would actually be. Doesn't seem to rival the Monsoon kit in any way. I appreciate the headsup but *I think I might have to pass on that one.*
Click to expand...

Yup,all i saw there was 90's....lots of 90's...plus some nice flattening on the inner wall.
I also noticed the EPIC length of time that PETG took to cool and become rigid......


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,all i saw there was 90's....lots of 90's...
> I also noticed the EPIC length of time that PETG took to cool and become rigid......


It looks like you 'could' do 'any' angle....however, it looks like you'd have to eyeball angles...even 90s. Even in the video looks like the angles are slightly off to me. Guess it is flexible but not precise

And yeah, that PETG 'work time' looks horrendous.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,all i saw there was 90's....lots of 90's...
> I also noticed the EPIC length of time that PETG took to cool and become rigid......
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like you 'could' do 'any' angle....however, it looks like you'd have to eyeball angles...even 90s. Even in the video looks like the angles are slightly off to me. Guess it is flexible but not precise
> 
> And yeah, that PETG 'work time' looks horrendous.
Click to expand...

I couldnt stand that,I form up,count to 5 and im ready to fit.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

sorry for off-topic, but dayum B Neg, I can't believe Magoo would approve of that avatar.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Yup,all i saw there was 90's....lots of 90's...plus some nice flattening on the inner wall.
> I also noticed the EPIC length of time that PETG took to cool and become rigid......
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like you 'could' do 'any' angle....however, it looks like you'd have to eyeball angles...even 90s. Even in the video looks like the angles are slightly off to me. Guess it is flexible but not precise
> 
> And yeah, that PETG 'work time' looks horrendous.
Click to expand...

I suppose _IF_ that primochill jig were larger for longer area between bends to make it a bit more practical, _IF_ it had a concave surface where the tube would bend against it to help prevent flattening, _IF_ it incorporated some sort of a measurement tool/system _and_ had intersecting 90 and 45 degree lines of different colors every few mm to help make positioning the bending guides more precisely along the most common angles, then maybe I'd have already bought one to give it a go.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I suppose _IF_ that primochill jig were larger for longer area between bends to make it a bit more practical, _IF_ it had a concave surface where the tube would bend against it to help prevent flattening, _IF_ it incorporated some sort of a measurement tool/system _and_ had intersecting 90 and 45 degree lines of different colors every few mm to help make positioning the bending guides more precisely along the most common angles, then maybe I'd have already bought one to give it a go.


Soooo many _IF_s, lol

Ultimately, all of those reasons are why I did not give it a go and got the Monsoon mandrels finally


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Soooo many _IF_s, lol
> 
> Ultimately, all of those reasons are why I did not give it a go and got the Monsoon mandrels finally


How do you like those mandrels?


----------



## lowfat

IMHO the Monsoon mandrels are the most important tool when it comes to doing an acrylic loop. Once you get a technique down that works for you, doing a loop can be relatively painless and look good. It just takes a whole lot of practice to generally find a working technique.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> How do you like those mandrels?


Haven't gotten around to playing with them yet. I will get back to ya though.


----------



## fakeblood

Used a roll of cellotape to achieve these bends









http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01542_zps48cbfcd2.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01541_zps70522f10.jpg.html

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/mofosaur/media/DSC01540_zps05b75c3c.jpg.html


----------



## sinnedone

That looks very very nice fakeblood.

Quick question for you all. I am currently looking at purchasing monsoon clear acrylic in the 3/8id 1/2od size.

Is the mcmaster stuff better or easier to bend?


----------



## johnnybra

Well, my ek hd 12/16 black nickel just arrived










Time to play now...


----------



## MrBlunt

So today my PETG arrived. i've done acrylic tubing before, but never with the monsoon mandrels. I will let you guys know how both work out!


----------



## MedRed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Umm what. We make these, have been for a long time.
> 
> Been in the works.


YES!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1338-petg-problem/

Wouldnt of even been an issue with Acrylic......

Claiming the 'strength of PETG' stopped disaster....yet nylon tube could of done the same job...without bulging and risking fail.

PETG is definitely in the 'Sell to China' list.


----------



## Hefner

Scary stuff!


----------



## MrBlunt

Still, I'm not sure that can be blamed on the PETG 100% seems like he had to have had flow problems. Thats The only thing that could have caused it to heat and swell. I've been playing with PETG and it seems to be fine. i made a simple pump>PETG *bent all crazy*>res> pump. i've just been letting it run. so far so good. no leaks still clear. i'm going to put it out in the hot sun today and see how it holds up under UV.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> That looks very very nice fakeblood.
> 
> Quick question for you all. I am currently looking at purchasing monsoon clear acrylic in the 3/8id 1/2od size.
> 
> Is the mcmaster stuff better or easier to bend?


I've always gone with the primochill stuff. never had any problems with it. Except when i started out and decidedto clean my tubes with rubbing alcohol... LOL EPIC facepalm


----------



## Destrto

I have a question about fitting sizes, I apologize if it has been answered already and I've just missed it somewhere in all of these pages.

If I wanted to go with a larger tube diameter, say 1/2" OD or 5/8" OD, are there any fittings that currently support those sizes?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a question about fitting sizes, I apologize if it has been answered already and I've just missed it somewhere in all of these pages.
> 
> If I wanted to go with a larger tube diameter, say 1/2" OD or 5/8" OD, are there any fittings that currently support those sizes?


Yes, I believe a 16mm fitting should fit since 5/8" = 15.9mm.

Monsoon makes hardline fittings specifically in the 5/8" size.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a question about fitting sizes, I apologize if it has been answered already and I've just missed it somewhere in all of these pages.
> 
> If I wanted to go with a larger tube diameter, say 1/2" OD or 5/8" OD, are there any fittings that currently support those sizes?


Monsoon has a 5/8" OD line of acrylic tube and fittings

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c703/s2230/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Rigid_Acrylic_-_Fittings-58_OD_Hardline_Fitting-Page1.html


----------



## Destrto

Thanks guys, I'll have a look at those Monsoon fittings. Hopefully they aren't an arm and a leg, as I'll need about 12 for the new build I have coming up.

Actually, let me edit this with another question.. How can 1/2" ID x 5/8" OD tubing only have a 1/16" wall?


----------



## wh0kn0ws

1/16 + 1/16 = 1/8

1/8 + 1/2 = 5/8


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> 1/16 + 1/16 = 1/8
> 
> 1/8 + 1/2 = 5/8


Yes, that's how the math is going in my head. But MCmasterCarr and a couple of other sites are saying 1/2" x 5/8" acrylic tubing has a 1/16" wall.


----------



## wh0kn0ws

When you look at the diameter, the wall thickness is cut in half. That's where the 1/16 wall thickness comes from.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, that's how the math is going in my head. But MCmasterCarr and a couple of other sites are saying 1/2" x 5/8" acrylic tubing has a 1/16" wall.


There are two walls: one on the left, one on the right

Code:



Code:


W--------W
1234567890

Each position is 1/16th, there are total 10 positions, 10/16 = 5/8
The inside -- has 8 positions, 8/16 = 1/2


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wh0kn0ws*
> 
> When you look at the diameter, the wall thickness is cut in half. That's where the 1/16 wall thickness comes from.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There are two walls: one on the left, one on the right
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> W--------W
> 1234567890
> 
> Each position is 1/16th, there are total 10 positions, 10/16 = 5/8
> The inside -- has 8 positions, 8/16 = 1/2


Ahh, I get it now. Thanks for the explanation.

So, I'll be good with any Acrylic tubing as long as those measurements match the Fittings.


----------



## MrBlunt

why not just go to frozencpu.com and see what they have available. they are all nicely sorted. Goodluck! Let's see a build log too!








I'm working on right now as we speak


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> why not just go to frozencpu.com and see what they have available. they are all nicely sorted. Goodluck! Let's see a build log too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm working on right now as we speak


Cause FCPU is quite expensive. I can find what I need much much cheaper elsewhere.
What would you rather pay, $3.85 for 6 feet of Acrylic Tube. Or $7.49 for 2.5 feet.


----------



## MrBlunt

i'm just saying so you can see the different pairings of sizes that most companies make. What companies are selling is a good starting point. Look for fittings, then find a tube that fits the Dia needed.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> i'm just saying so you can see the different pairings of sizes that most companies make. What companies are selling is a good starting point. Look for fittings, then find a tube that fits the Dia needed.


That's what all the questions I had were all about. Making sure the tubing I found was the right size for the fittings I was shown.


----------



## defiler2k

Here are some pics of my work in progress with pipe bending


----------



## Ovrclck

Since running out of E22, I bought a bunch of EK HD 10/12mm tubing. I've been using the cord from mcmaster 3/8" ±0.027" 9808K23 for E22 but this doesn't fit EK's acrylic. I tried using Metric Buna-n O-ring Cord Stock 9.0mm that works with the imperial tubing. It works but the bends are not the cleanest. Not sure if it's the cord or just the acrylic. Any ideas?

PPCS still hasn't gotten an ETA for the 100mm sticks of E22









I might just go with imperial since it's so cheap and mcmaster is just down the street from me. (would have to buy new fittings







)


----------



## MrBlunt

Started doing my tubing for Toxic Overkill =) i'm not rlly happy with the top tube, i'll probably redo that one.. it's been awhile since i've done acrylic tubing.


----------



## Destrto

Could someone please explain to me how to use these Monsoon Hardline fittings? Whichever way I try to attach them to the tubing, they just slide right off. They didn't come with any install instructions.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Could someone please explain to me how to use these Monsoon Hardline fittings? Whichever way I try to attach them to the tubing, they just slide right off. They didn't come with any install instructions.


Sounds like you aren't gluing on the collars first (perhaps don't have the collars or the glue?).

Sounds like Monsoon should be including instructions with their fittings and better explaining what all is needed on their sales pages (or stop selling everything separately). .

You should probably watch the Monsoon Hardline Howto vids (direct download links at the bottom of the first post on this thread, or the Youtube link below)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU1MoA3S30s&list=PLlL3fXgZOm_dyrz4uDQmlvS83YTQCLlaC

Edit:

Speaking of those links in the first post, that reminds me, there was this from B Neg ~6 or so months ago when the Monsoon kits began shipping ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> [...]
> 
> Monsoon have come to the game with a new mandrel set with everything you need with the basic technique shown above but with purpose built mandrels/formers and a new range of fittings with a novel locking technique.
> 
> The Monsoon hardline kit videos:
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Premium_Fittings.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_Heatgun_Kit.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_2.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Tools_mandrels_and_Measure_3.mp4
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/Hardline_Cutting_Kit.mp4
> 
> *This OP will be updated with a pictorial of it in use when my kit arrives.*
> 
> 
> 
> Well ....... ?
Click to expand...


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Sounds like you aren't gluing on the collars first (perhaps don't have the collars or the glue?).
> 
> Sounds like Monsoon should be including instructions with their fittings and better explaining what all is needed on their sales pages (or stop selling everything separately). .
> 
> You should probably watch the Monsoon Hardline Howto vids (direct download links at the bottom of the first post on this thread, or the Youtube link below)
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU1MoA3S30s&list=PLlL3fXgZOm_dyrz4uDQmlvS83YTQCLlaC
> .


Yea, there was no mention of separate sets of tools or items required for these. What came in each box, was, 6 fittings, 2 O-rings each, with a clear washer. Is this little clear washer the collar you refer to?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yea, there was no mention of separate sets of tools or items required for these. What came in each box, was, 6 fittings, 2 O-rings each, with a clear washer. *Is this little clear washer the collar you refer to?*


Sounds like it could be. I didn't ever buy into the Hardline fittings because of needing the lock collars and the glue and all which looked to make them more troublesome to work with even if they do offer superior holding/strength.

You really should watch the video(s). That'll tell you what youy have and what else if anything you still need and how to use it all.

AFAIK places like PPCs and FCPU do have the Monsoon how-to vids embedded in their product pages.


----------



## Destrto

Yea I've watched the videos. I'm using the Economy line of Monsoon fittings. He doesn't mention them or have them displayed in the video you linked, or the one on PPCS. (I think they're the same video.)

I have all the other tools necessary, heat gun, cutting tool, de-burring tool. I just am lost at the moment while trying to test fit these fittings onto the tube, as I don't seem to see a set of instructions or how to for these. The fittings he talks about in the video have that large collar that fits over the end of the tube. The fittings I have didn't come with that.


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yea I've watched the videos. I'm using the Economy line of Monsoon fittings. He doesn't mention them or have them displayed in the video you linked, or the one on PPCS. (I think they're the same video.)
> 
> I have all the other tools necessary, heat gun, cutting tool, de-burring tool. I just am lost at the moment while trying to test fit these fittings onto the tube, as I don't seem to see a set of instructions or how to for these. The fittings he talks about in the video have that large collar that fits over the end of the tube. The fittings I have didn't come with that.






Can you take a picture of what you have? It feels like you need the adhesive to hold the sleeve in place but without looking at what you have its hard to tell.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yea I've watched the videos. I'm using the Economy line of Monsoon fittings. He doesn't mention them or have them displayed in the video you linked, or the one on PPCS. (I think they're the same video.)
> 
> I have all the other tools necessary, heat gun, cutting tool, de-burring tool. I just am lost at the moment while trying to test fit these fittings onto the tube, as I don't seem to see a set of instructions or how to for these. The fittings he talks about in the video have that large collar that fits over the end of the tube. The fittings I have didn't come with that.


http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1435-guide-to-hardline-compression-fittings-part-2-themodzoocom/

3 min in


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I thought the 'economy' line of Monsoon fittings are push-fit.









Are you sure you have the right size fitting for the tube you have? I believe Monsoon's tubing and fittings come in two sizes.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/1435-guide-to-hardline-compression-fittings-part-2-themodzoocom/
> 
> 3 min


Compression?

I stand corrected.


----------



## Destrto

Here is one of them disassembled.


I did make sure I have matching tube and fittings. 1/2" x 5/8"


----------



## MrBlunt

ok so.. from the looks of it.. black o-ring at the bottom, *between block and fitting, second oring inside the fitting first, then white plastic, then cap.
i believe when you screw down the cap, it pushes the white oring down expanding the inner black oring around the tube.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Here is one of them disassembled.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that their 5/8 x 1/2" fitting?

Are you trying to use it with 3/8 x 1/2" tubing?

edit:

From the modzoo video Jakusonfire linked:



I could be mistaken, but from your image it looks like yours is the larger 5/8" OD fitting isn't it?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Is that their 5/8 x 1/2" fitting?
> 
> Are you trying to use it with 3/8 x 1/2" tubing?


Yes, that is the 1/2" x 5/8" fitting. And I have the exact same size monsoon acrylic tubing. 1/2" x 5/8".

If I only use 1 O ring, with the clear washer, it screws down nearly all the way, but I can still feel "wiggle" from the tube. If I try to use both O rings (O ring, washer, O ring) I can't get the fitting to screw down at all.

Also: They do not show how to install the Economy line of fittings in the video that was linked.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, that is the 1/2" x 5/8" fitting. And I have the exact same size monsoon acrylic tubing. 1/2" x 5/8".
> 
> If I only use 1 O ring, with the clear washer, it screws down nearly all the way, but I can still feel "wiggle" from the tube. If I try to use both O rings (O ring, washer, O ring) I can't get the fitting to screw down at all.
> 
> Also: They do not show how to install the Economy line of fittings in the video that was linked.


Since these are free center fittings there can be a little wiggle. I know On some of my primochill there is some room. The question is if the tube slides off with ease or not. Given that they are free center you can slide the tube off but it should take some effort. Does the bottom of the fitting have it's o ring in place? I've had monsoon fitting kits include extra o-rings which could be the reason for the extra ring.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Since these are free center fittings there can be a little wiggle. I know On some of my primochill there is some room. The question is if the tube slides off with ease or not. Given that they are free center you can slide the tube off but it should take some effort. Does the bottom of the fitting have it's o ring in place? I've had monsoon fitting kits include extra o-rings which could be the reason for the extra ring.


That makes sense, it does take a bit of extra wiggling to make the tube slide out.

Explain what you mean by "bottom of the fitting have its O ring" ?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

They do show in the modzoo video the "plastic washer that goes up on top of the o-ring".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=noBAB2FC9IA#t=193

The other o-ring goes on the threads betwen the fitting and whatever it's screwed into.

It's just like MrBlunt explained:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> ok so.. from the looks of it.. black o-ring at the bottom, *between block and fitting, second oring inside the fitting first, then white plastic, then cap.
> i believe when you screw down the cap, it pushes the white oring down expanding the inner black oring around the tube.


If you still feel a little 'wiggle' with it like that, that's probably normal especially with just one end of a tube in a fitting.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That makes sense, it does take a bit of extra wiggling to make the tube slide out.
> 
> Explain what you mean by "bottom of the fitting have its O ring" ?


There should be an o-ring on the side that has the threads that screw down on the block to make sure the fitting seals between the block.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> They do show in the modzoo video the "plastic washer that goes up on top of the o-ring".
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=noBAB2FC9IA#t=193
> 
> The other o-ring goes on the threads betwen the fitting and whatever it's screwed into.
> 
> It's just like MrBlunt explained:
> If you still feel a little 'wiggle' with it like that, that's probably normal especially with just one end of a tube in a fitting.


I guess I just need a step-by-step then. Cause whichever combination of using both O rings that I try, I cannot get the top to screw down on.

I'm still not getting exactly what you mean by "it goes on the threads between the fitting..." These fittings have knurling on the part that screws into the Block, or radiator. Does it still need an O-ring attached?

Ninja'd me.. That 2nd O-ring makes a lot more sense now..

Thanks guys.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, that is the 1/2" x 5/8" fitting. And I have the exact same size monsoon acrylic tubing. 1/2" x 5/8".
> 
> If I only use 1 O ring, with the clear washer, it screws down nearly all the way, but I can still feel "wiggle" from the tube. If I try to use both O rings (O ring, washer, O ring) I can't get the fitting to screw down at all.
> 
> Also: They do not show how to install the Economy line of fittings in the video that was linked.


If you can't work out how to use a compression fitting that works the same way as all the others on the market without seeing a specific video are you sure you are really ready for water cooling?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> If you can't work out how to use a compression fitting that works the same way as all the others on the market without seeing a specific video are you sure you are really ready for water cooling?


Thing is, these are not the same as compression fittings for soft tubing.

So, Don't be an ass, k? Thanks.


----------



## ledzepp3

Spanks again for this thread BNeg. You helped me get this












10/10 would pipe again


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thing is, these are not the same as compression fittings for soft tubing.
> 
> So, Don't be an ass, k? Thanks.


I think between the tube and the fitting you just need the white sleeve and the one o ring. The other is either a spare or for the G1/4 threads on the opposite end of the fitting.

Here is an example picture of how I do it with my primochils, they use the same concept.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> I think between the tube and the fitting you just need the white sleeve and the one o ring. The other is either a spare or for the G1/4 threads on the opposite end of the fitting.
> 
> Here is an example picture of how I do it with my primochils, they use the same concept.


Thank you for contributing something helpful.

The 2nd O ring these came with must be for use like any other regular fitting. For some reason, when they talked about the threads on the bottom of the Silver side being knurled, I took that as meaning it would not need an O ring, but apparently that is not the case.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thank you for contributing something helpful.
> 
> The 2nd O ring these came with must be for use like any other regular fitting. For some reason, when they talked about the threads on the bottom of the Silver side being knurled, I took that as meaning it would not need an O ring, but apparently that is not the case.


Yes, you need that o ring there. The knuckled bottom allows for better compression of the o-ring for a tighter seal.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

sounds like you got it figured out, but just in case this might also help. From that modzoo video:


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Yes, you need that o ring there. The knuckled bottom allows for better compression of the o-ring for a tighter seal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> sounds like you got it figured out, but just in case this might also help. From that modzoo video:


Thanks guys, I think I've gotten it figured out with your help.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thing is, these are not the same as compression fittings for soft tubing.
> 
> So, Don't be an ass, k? Thanks.


No, they are the same as other compression hardline fittings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thank you for contributing something helpful.
> 
> The 2nd O ring these came with must be for use like any other regular fitting. For some reason, when they talked about the threads on the bottom of the Silver side being knurled, I took that as meaning it would not need an O ring, but apparently that is not the case.


See, this is worrying right here. A little common sense goes a long way.
There's nothing wrong with asking for advice, its a good thing, but at the same time this is an enthusiast hobby with hardlining being a smaller subset of that. Needing instructions for every little detail does not fit with that and rings alarm bells. Its not about being all 'give the noob a hard time', its a real concern that not enough research has been done. Lots of people will spend months on it before they buy a thing. Just jumping in the deep end without at least some confidence is asking for trouble. Its your hardware in the end though.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No, they are the same as other compression hardline fittings.
> See, this is worrying right here. A little common sense goes a long way.
> There's nothing wrong with asking for advice, its a good thing, but at the same time this is an enthusiast hobby with hardlining being a smaller subset of that. Needing instructions for every little detail does not fit with that and rings alarm bells. Its not about being all 'give the noob a hard time', its a real concern that not enough research has been done. Lots of people will spend months on it before they buy a thing. Just jumping in the deep end without at least some confidence is asking for trouble. Its your hardware in the end though.


If I've never used hardline fittings before... How does that help me?

And this is where I say, coming to OCN is my last resort when I cannot find the answer to my question on my own. It has nothing to do with common sense or a lack of research done.

Sure, I could have struggled with it on my own for awhile, wasting time and risking damage to one or more of my parts. But that's why there are forums like this. To get advice from those who have already experienced these things. Now, you can either attribute to the helpful advice and suggestions to solve the issue, or you can be detrimental by suggesting incompetence of members simply because they do not know the answer themselves or the correct way to locate the answer.

Like I said, There are no videos of anything more in depth than a simple overview of these hardline parts. And again, I say, they are not exactly the same as other compression fittings. Other hardline fittings, maybe, but telling me that doesn't help me at all, because these are my first experience with them.. I used soft tube compression fittings before this, and they had quite a few differences compared to these. If they had been exactly the same, I would not have needed to ask for advice..


----------



## stebbiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Like I said, There are no videos of anything more in depth than a simple overview of these hardline parts.


Maybe this video will help you.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stebbiro*
> 
> Maybe this video will help you.


I've already figured out what I was asking for help about earlier. Thanks though.


----------



## MrBlunt

what were you doing wrong?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> what were you doing wrong?


I was under the impression that the knurling on the bottom of the fitting meant that it would not need an O ring like other fittings do.. And I was mistaken. So that 2nd O ring that was supplied with each fitting went on the bottom, just like any other regular fitting does

I was used to seeing fittings shipped with the O ring pre-applied to the bottom, so seeing these O rings separate, sitting on top like they were, threw me off.


----------



## TheGovernment

So I'm going to get my ordering done for my first attempt at acrylic. I'm leaning towards the primochill stiff, I like the idea of the compression fittings and want the different colors of tubing because I change that kind of stuff out ever 6-7 months for fun.

Anyone have any issues with the primochill tubing or fittings?

this is getting ready for the x99 build. I just bought the CL STH-10 case, 2 x RX480's and will re-use my RX360 rad. Current rig is in my sig.

Just looking to see if what I'm wanting to use is good or if I should look elsewhere.

thanks


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> So I'm going to get my ordering done for my first attempt at acrylic. I'm leaning towards the primochill stiff, I like the idea of the compression fittings and want the different colors of tubing because I change that kind of stuff out ever 6-7 months for fun.
> 
> Anyone have any issues with the primochill tubing or fittings?
> 
> this is getting ready for the x99 build. I just bought the CL STH-10 case, 2 x RX480's and will re-use my RX360 rad. Current rig is in my sig.
> 
> Just looking to see if what I'm wanting to use is good or if I should look elsewhere.
> 
> thanks


I just finished my build with the primochill fittings and rigid tubing and had no issues. I'm actually helping a friend that is using BP fittings and I prefer the PrimoChil as the Primochil leave more room for error compared to others.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I was under the impression that the knurling on the bottom of the fitting meant that it would not need an O ring like other fittings do.. And I was mistaken. So that 2nd O ring that was supplied with each fitting went on the bottom, just like any other regular fitting does
> 
> I was used to seeing fittings shipped with the O ring pre-applied to the bottom, so seeing these O rings separate, sitting on top like they were, threw me off.


Sorry but i am like some of the other posters!! Are you sure you know what you doing??? I never looked at video or ask question but knew what to do


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry but i am like some of the other posters!! Are you sure you know what you doing??? I never looked at video or ask question but knew what to do


congrats to you.. but he needed help.. not to be belittled about asking for it.. Alot of you guys are acting like you've never needed help with anything.. or Found a solution that was right in front of your eyes the whole time.. Yes you are right.. they are basically the same as non rigid compression.. but still.. all you guys had to say was that you always need an oring sealing two water pieces together..

Common guys.. ACT LIKE YOU HAVE BEEN HERE BEFORE.. It's a forum, A GREAT FORUM... people ask for help, if you dont want to help keep your mouth shut.









Good luck on the build Destro.. let's see some pics of the build!


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> congrats to you.. but he needed help.. not to be belittled about asking for it.. Alot of you guys are acting like you've never needed help with anything.. or Found a solution that was right in front of your eyes the whole time.. Yes you are right.. they are basically the same as non rigid compression.. but still.. all you guys had to say was that you always need an oring sealing two water pieces together..
> 
> Common guys.. ACT LIKE YOU HAVE BEEN HERE BEFORE.. It's a forum, A GREAT FORUM... people ask for help, if you dont want to help keep your mouth shut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck on the build Destro.. let's see some pics of the build!


Yeah great, that's all really nice but if you were shown a video of fittings being put together and you were still asking for more because it doesn't show that specific brand being put onto tubing then I would be suggesting you do some more research too.
If that suggestion is too harsh for your delicate sensibilities or too threatening to your manhood then don't whatever you do click on anything else on the internet.
This isn't complicated stuff, just really simple plumbing, but it does require a bit of thought and common sense.

If you would honestly encounter someone who could not work out how to use a compression fitting, given all the material available, and just say, yep, go ahead and fill that expensive computer system with water then that's great. Its not your stuff at risk after all. Others wouldn't.
Even seen any fittings come with instructions? Me neither.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> congrats to you.. but he needed help.. not to be belittled about asking for it.. Alot of you guys are acting like you've never needed help with anything.. or Found a solution that was right in front of your eyes the whole time.. Yes you are right.. they are basically the same as non rigid compression.. but still.. all you guys had to say was that you always need an oring sealing two water pieces together..
> 
> Common guys.. ACT LIKE YOU HAVE BEEN HERE BEFORE.. It's a forum, A GREAT FORUM... people ask for help, if you dont want to help keep your mouth shut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck on the build Destro.. let's see some pics of the build!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah great, that's all really nice but if you were shown a video of fittings being put together and you were still asking for more because it doesn't show that specific brand being put onto tubing then I would be suggesting you do some more research too.
> If that suggestion is too harsh for your delicate sensibilities or too threatening to your manhood then don't whatever you do click on anything else on the internet.
> This isn't complicated stuff, just really simple plumbing, but it does require a bit of thought and common sense.
> 
> If you would honestly encounter someone who could not work out how to use a compression fitting, given all the material available, and just say, yep, go ahead and fill that expensive computer system with water then that's great. Its not your stuff at risk after all. Others wouldn't.
> Even seen any fittings come with instructions? Me neither.
Click to expand...

I have to agree,if you are asking questions like that then maybe start with traditional tube......


----------



## Destrto

Really, guys? Just drop it already.. You obviously were not understanding what I was having difficulty with in the first place since you chose to belittle me for asking questions. How very adult of you.

I appreciate Mr Blunt being supportive..

I will explain this as lay as I am able to so you might actually get it.. The regular soft tube compression fittings I have worked with came with the O rings pre-installed on the bottom of the fitting, and did not have anything else included. Just one O ring. Other brands apparently have O rings inside the Compression sleeve as well, I was not aware of this. How am i supposed to know that if I have never used them before?? I have no physical experience with any other types of fittings where the O rings were not already installed before opening the packaging. Monsoons fittings are, for the most part, disassembled inside the packaging. This is also my first time using anything from Monsoon. My questions were due to nothing more than my inexperience with different brands' fittings. It confused me at first.. So YEA, I came here to ask a few noob questions before I broke anything, because the videos weren't helping me understand.

So EXCUSE me for wanting more information before I go throwing things together blindly...

Jesus Christ guys, can I not ask questions??

I've gotten the appropriate assistance with the questions I asked. So i will not be responding to anymore belittlement, or chastising from those who wish to do so instead of being helpful.. You know... on a forum meant to HELP those who are not as knowledgeable as you??


----------



## MrBlunt

I'm a little disappointed with some of the members as of late.. this is OCN, if a guy has a question about O-rings THAN HELP HIM... so what if he didnt under stand a video... as a community you should be positive about the situation in other words.. dont be a d!ck.

Why tell him NOT to get into Rigid Acrylic work? That was one of my favorite steps in watercooling because i used work on cars and race cars doing custom exhausts. Tons of creativity in the tubing, and honestly ITS NOT THAT HARD.. you can make a million pieces, leak all over the place with distilled, let it dry LOL, 9/10 itll be fine weeks later. *as long as it was truly distilled. *i usually rinsed with 99.something alcohol.* but still, i leared from it. next tubing design came out crazy well.

anyway... dont discourage or chastise people from seeking knowledge.. thats just a *****ty thing to do


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Really, guys? Just drop it already.. You obviously were not understanding what I was having difficulty with in the first place since you chose to belittle me for asking questions. How very adult of you.
> 
> I appreciate Mr Blunt being supportive..
> 
> I will explain this as lay as I am able to so you might actually get it.. The regular soft tube compression fittings I have worked with came with the O rings pre-installed on the bottom of the fitting, and did not have anything else included. Just one O ring. Other brands apparently have O rings inside the Compression sleeve as well, I was not aware of this. How am i supposed to know that if I have never used them before?? I have no physical experience with any other types of fittings where the O rings were not already installed before opening the packaging. Monsoons fittings are, for the most part, disassembled inside the packaging. This is also my first time using anything from Monsoon. My questions were due to nothing more than my inexperience with different brands' fittings. It confused me at first.. So YEA, I came here to ask a few noob questions before I broke anything, because the videos weren't helping me understand.
> 
> So EXCUSE me for wanting more information before I go throwing things together blindly...
> 
> Jesus Christ guys, can I not ask questions??
> 
> I've gotten the appropriate assistance with the questions I asked. So i will not be responding to anymore belittlement, or chastising from those who wish to do so instead of being helpful.. You know... on a forum meant to HELP those who are not as knowledgeable as you??


I mean no offense Destro,Im just a little concerned that the learning curve is steep with acrylic as it is. No one really starts with this so we forget that the basics may have been missed.

Apologies.


----------



## TheGovernment

Will the monsoon bending kit work fine with the primochill 1/2 OD tubing? I know it's the same size but just making sure before I buy one.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Will the monsoon bending kit work fine with the primochill 1/2 OD tubing? I know it's the same size but just making sure before I buy one.


Yes, there shouldn't be any issues with that.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Will the monsoon bending kit work fine with the primochill 1/2 OD tubing? I know it's the same size but just making sure before I buy one.


i am using both, are you getting the madrels also? i really like the little gloves that come with the kit bending kit. primochill works perfectly with it.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> Will the monsoon bending kit work fine with the primochill 1/2 OD tubing? I know it's the same size but just making sure before I buy one.


Yup I did my bending with the monsoon kit without issues.


----------



## TheGovernment

Awesome, I figured it would work but who knows these days, they may have had some sort of weird issue I didn't notice.

i'm gonna get this : http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22340/too-133/Monsoon_Hardline_Pro_Mandrel_Kit_-_38_x_12_13mm.html?id=DzLXIcaC&mv_pc=977

I don't need the full kit as I already have everything else.


----------



## MrBlunt

that will work perfectly! i have the same kit and love it







i'm actually going to do some bends in a little bit and i'll have pictures up.
sub my build log in my sig.


----------



## kingchris

my pipes, will end up frosting them.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Looks good








Don't forget to rinse your lines


----------



## lowfat

IMO you should try to file off about 1mm of tubing off the top run. It should make both tubes parallel.


----------



## MrBlunt

going to redo a couple tubes.. but what do ya think?
i want to straighten out that tube on the right for sure.
also need to finish polishing the reservoirs.


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> my pipes, will end up frosting them.


how do you frost them?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> how do you frost them?


Sand w/ 400 grit in one direction before bending them.


----------



## Ninhalem

Alright, this is a basic representation (with my fantastic MS Paint skills /s) of what I have going on in the top corner of my case (Fractal Design Arc Midi, generation 1). That outgoing line from the reservoir is the out line from the pump. The design I have right now has this line going into a T-joint that has an inlet from the fill port up top and goes out to the rest of the loop. The return line is in red.

What is not represented in that directly in the middle of the aforementioned section is a 30 degree bend. The reason I need a bend there instead of going straight out is that the inlet was already present and I don't want to drill another hole in the top. I don't have a picture handy, but the placement of the current hole would be too close to the proposed hole if the pipe was straight out from the reservoir.

The space is incredibly small to work in and I need people's opinions on what would be the best method to measure the length of pipe for the section between the T-joint and the reservoir. Do I try to measure the dimensions of the reservoir with respect to the case, and then roughly calculate the length of the section with trigonometry, or do I eyeball and waste a lot of pipe? Suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Ninhalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> going to redo a couple tubes.. but what do ya think?
> i want to straighten out that tube on the right for sure.
> also need to finish polishing the reservoirs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like that bending job. Did you use McMaster-Carr tubing or something else?


----------



## MrBlunt

primochill


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> how do you frost them?
> 
> 
> 
> Sand w/ 400 grit in one direction before bending them.
Click to expand...

Or....



Much easier.

In other news....


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


Mmm milky milky


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> going to redo a couple tubes.. but what do ya think?
> i want to straighten out that tube on the right for sure.
> also need to finish polishing the reservoirs.


This is my new favorite stuff to use while polishing acrylic. First discovered this stuff way back when I used to work in custom auto fabrication. (Funny how experience from this profession keeps revolving back into my PC







) Was thinking of posting a vid with a scuffed up piece of acrylic and using that "scrub" in combination with good ol' fashioned 3M rubbing compound.
Just FYI bud.


----------



## MrBlunt

havent seen that stuff at any autoparts stores.. i use meguir's plastX. do you have any pics?


----------



## Beaker076

Quick question for all the pipe bending guru's out there.

Between the 1/2"OD and 5/8"OD tubing, is one easier to work with etc .. I mean if needing to do tight bends etc is the 1/2"OD easier to work with or are they both kinda the same and it all comes down to case layout / room to move etc?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much easier.
> 
> In other news....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much easier.
> 
> In other news....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Really beautiful work. I'm not sure if you have said already but what size bender did you use to make your custom 290x shroud?


----------



## kingchris

very nice bneg


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I have a 2 foot sheet metal brake,cost about £50...


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I have a 2 foot sheet metal brake,cost about £50...


Excellent, thanks I need to get one myself.


----------



## B NEGATIVE




----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much easier.
> 
> In other news....


That rustoleum spray works pretty well, I've used it on sheets of acrylic before. I'd just cover the ends of the tube and do light coats so it does run or find its way to the inside of the tube if you end up using it.

Looks like you have some nice bends in some pretty tight places there Bneg, good work. Your custom res makes me crack up and pleased at the same time every time I see it, lol. Honestly, I never thought I'd see you use pastel in a build tho.

What'd you use to do the logos (Bitspower one for example) on the side of the case? They look almost screen printed but not because they are raised just a bit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Or....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Much easier.
> 
> In other news....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That rustoleum spray works pretty well, I've used it on sheets of acrylic before. I'd just cover the ends of the tube and do light coats so it does run or find its way to the inside of the tube if you end up using it.
> 
> Looks like you have some nice bends in some pretty tight places there Bneg, good work. Your custom res makes me crack up and pleased at the same time every time I see it, lol. *Honestly, I never thought I'd see you use pastel in a build tho.*
> 
> What'd you use to do the logos (Bitspower one for example) on the side of the case? They look almost screen printed but not because they are raised just a bit.
Click to expand...

Neither did I....It just fits tho,Clear would look plain and Im trying to keep the rig neutral but having whatever lighting colour i like.


----------



## cyphon

Just started working with my Monsoon Mandels last night. What techniques were working for you guys? I keep getting not quite correct angles (on the 90 believe it or not) or the tube is considerably thinner throughout the bend than the legs.

(using E22 tube with the 13mm kit)


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just started working with my Monsoon Mandels last night. What techniques were working for you guys? I keep getting not quite correct angles (on the 90 believe it or not) or the tube is considerably thinner throughout the bend than the legs.
> 
> (using E22 tube with the 13mm kit)


Do you use a silicon insert?
the E22 is 12mm isnt it? 13mm kit should still work though.

Try heating the tube a bit more before bending around the mandrel.. also dont push the tube too tight against it.

I used my home made mandrel (360 degree) only as a guide for the bend.. then had 90 degree lines drawn up on a board to guide the legs for a perfect 90 degree.
If you have to make a lot of bends, I would suggest replecing the drawn lines with straight pieces of wood screwed down in a perfect 90 degree, then fold the tube softly around the mandrel (90, 180, 360.. all good) and align the legs with the wood.

and lastly, pictures would help determent where you went wrong


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just started working with my Monsoon Mandels last night. What techniques were working for you guys? I keep getting not quite correct angles (on the 90 believe it or not) or the tube is considerably thinner throughout the bend than the legs.
> 
> (using E22 tube with the 13mm kit)


I had this problem with the Monsoon mandrels so I made this and it now works perfect everytime!!


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Do you use a silicon insert?
> the E22 is 12mm isnt it? 13mm kit should still work though.
> 
> Try heating the tube a bit more before bending around the mandrel.. also dont push the tube too tight against it.
> 
> I used my home made mandrel (360 degree) only as a guide for the bend.. then had 90 degree lines drawn up on a board to guide the legs for a perfect 90 degree.
> If you have to make a lot of bends, I would suggest replecing the drawn lines with straight pieces of wood screwed down in a perfect 90 degree, then fold the tube softly around the mandrel (90, 180, 360.. all good) and align the legs with the wood.
> 
> and lastly, pictures would help determent where you went wrong


Using an insert of course









The tube didn't do the 'fold over' thing that happens when it is not heated enough...I took some photos, but didn't get a chance to upload yet. My guess is that I am pulling it around the mandel too hard and or it is slipping past where i start the bend. I also think that the radius is larger than I had used for the former on my previous build and I am not used to that either, lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I had this problem with the Monsoon mandrels so I made this and it now works perfect everytime!!


Not a bad idea. Might need to stop off at a hardware store and try this method out


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Using an insert of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tube didn't do the 'fold over' thing that happens when it is not heated enough...I took some photos, but didn't get a chance to upload yet. My guess is that I am pulling it around the mandel too hard and or it is slipping past where i start the bend. I also think that the radius is larger than I had used for the former on my previous build and I am not used to that either, lol
> Not a bad idea. Might need to stop off at a hardware store and try this method out


I had the same issue on my first attempt, this happens if you pull the tube too much through the mandrel instead of pushing it through, basically you are stretching and thinning your tube.


----------



## johnnybra

Oh yeah! It's done!







Some pipes were really hard to do. The upper chamber don't let me enough room to work comfortably, but as we say here "Con paciencia y saliva...."


----------



## GaMbi2004

looks awesome !


----------



## B NEGATIVE

These fittings are a must have for me......

Join the campaign!



https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/illumitube


----------



## stebbiro

Oh Yeah... Those are trick fittings. Adding them to my list of must haves. Thanks.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> These fittings are a must have for me......
> 
> Join the campaign!
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/illumitube


Colour me intrigued.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> Just started working with my Monsoon Mandels last night. What techniques were working for you guys? I keep getting not quite correct angles (on the 90 believe it or not) or the tube is considerably thinner throughout the bend than the legs.
> 
> (using E22 tube with the 13mm kit)


Which insert are you using? I tried with the monsoon insert and 12mm tube and it was pretty bad, then I used the EK insert and every bend was flawless
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> These fittings are a must have for me......
> 
> Join the campaign!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/illumitube


Saw those, really cool. I'm a little on the fence because I feel like the LED wires are going to add up quickly and become a cable organization nightmare.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> These fittings are a must have for me......
> 
> Join the campaign!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/illumitube


I've no doubt some will be able to use these to make an awesome looking build, but just the thought of having wires going to every fitting is more than enough for me to know they will never be right for me.


----------



## kingchris

looking a little better


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking a little better


I love that frosted finish, its gorgeus.
The angle from the horizontal lines are a bit off, I think. They are perfectly parallel with each other, but at an angle with the lines at the GPU. Is that intentional?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> looking a little better


I'm loving the frosted look. It almost looks like a cool and refreshing drink inside.


----------



## kingchris

thanks guys, the gpus look like that or i cant getting the power cables in


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking a little better


Very interesting routing on the GPUs. Can't make out exactly how it's all connected though! Say the tube coming out of the CPU and bent 90° down. Does that stop in a T junction type fitting with the bottom end plugged and the GPU tube connecting in at a right angle?


----------



## kingchris

the run is, res, front pump,front rad,back pump, top rad, cpu, top gpu (gpu's have 2 water blocks in them) side block-centre block, lower gpu centre block-side block, res.
will get some better pics up on the build log


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking a little better


Looking good


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingchris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> looking a little better


Will frost the reservoir too?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Bending these mobo, RAM & GPU acrylic pieces was easily one of the hardest things to do for this build. I had similar problems when I created the acrylic pieces for the original loop for this project, but they were more or less multiple bends on a single piece of acrylic. Since the start of this project, I must have gone through 8 sticks (36" each) of E22 to get to this point, which is probably the equivalent of only 1 stick... I'm just glad I'm finally done, so I can concentrate on other things to finish this build.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG2511.jpg.html


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> These fittings are a must have for me......
> 
> Join the campaign!
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/illumitube


Ok, this looks promising.

Just got in 2 6 foot lengths of PETG for $13.68 SHIPPED. Guess I'll start messing with that stuff now. I absolutely did NOT like the Primochill Acrylic tubing. Too much of a pain to work with.


----------



## SSTGohanX

First real attempt. I think it came out well. A few adjustments needed but thats for the first half of the case lol.


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Bending these mobo, RAM & GPU acrylic pieces was easily one of the hardest things to do for this build.


Yes, those smaller bent runs are a real PITA...but worth t in the end








Looks good bud!


----------



## seross69

Well I was dropping some things off at Goodwill and look what I found for 4.99 so I thought I would try it!!!!!




A UV dryer for finger nails and Toenails!!!! They use Polish that is actiuvated by UV light like the Monsoon Hard Line is also...





I bought it to try and in 5 minuted I have fully finished hardline ready to be put on!!! all the glue has sealed and cemented the collar and the tube together!!!!


----------



## MrBlunt

...interesting lol


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You got a result there Seross


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You got a result there Seross


Yeah i left them in for 5 minutes and completely cured!!! Worked Great!!


----------



## Ovrclck

Hey guys, I have a bunch of EK-HD tubing that I would like to use. What's the correct cord to use? The buna cord I'm using with E22 doesn't fit.

thanks!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You want a 9mm tube.
Which size did you get btw?


----------



## QAKE

Hello,

I'm gonna watercool the rig I'm building with some of the EK-HD tubes (16/12 ones), CPU, 2x GPU and motherboard
I'm also building a tool to precisely bend your tubes!!!



Follow my build for more informations:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1497072/build-log-nzxt-h440-project-gamma-i7-4770k-2x-asus-gtx780-poseidon-asus-maximus-vi-formula-nzxt-h440-custom-waterloop-acrylic-tubes#post_22453206


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You want a 9mm tube.
> Which size did you get btw?


10/12 mm.
I have 9mm cord, I'll give it another try. Thanks


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> 10/12 mm.
> I have 9mm cord, I'll give it another try. Thanks


It takes a little practice and getting used to it don't give up if you make a couple of mistakes.


----------



## Destrto

Anybody know a good way to remove little scuff marks on the tubing?


----------



## MrBlunt

Meguir's plastX


----------



## DreadManD

I took a slightly different approach in my build with my tubing and tried to run them out of the way as much as I could. Black Monsoon Hardline Fittings with Swiftech's rotary adapters and 1/2"OD PETG tubing finished my loop. I opted to use 1/2"OD tubing because of all the tight bends I wanted to make. One of my runs is 24" with seven 90 degree bends. I tubed my build twice with acrylic tubing before, but they cracked. I also added lots of custom acrylic sheet work.


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> I took a slightly different approach in my build with my tubing and tried to run them out of the way as much as I could. Black Monsoon Hardline Fittings with Swiftech's rotary adapters and 1/2"OD PETG tubing finished my loop. I opted to use 1/2"OD tubing because of all the tight bends I wanted to make. One of my runs is 24" with seven 90 degree bends. I tubed my build twice with acrylic tubing before, but they cracked. I also added lots of custom acrylic sheet work.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So clean man, great job!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> So clean man, great job!


I agree great Job and looks so good and clean


----------



## CasP3r

Where do you Europeans usually get your acrylic tubing? I was looking for Finnish stores that sell 12/10mm tubing but I could only find one. E22 seems to sell it as well and is pretty much the same price-wise as the Finnish store. I'm going to order some cable and sleeving supplies from E22 anyway so I figured I could get the tubing from there as well.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> Where do you Europeans usually get your acrylic tubing? I was looking for Finnish stores that sell 12/10mm tubing but I could only find one. E22 seems to sell it as well and is pretty much the same price-wise as the Finnish store. I'm going to order some cable and sleeving supplies from E22 anyway so I figured I could get the tubing from there as well.


You don't have to buy from a water cooling shop. There is a healthy market for acrylic products outside of the computer world. Check locally for acrylic specialists. 12mm/8mm tubing is also an option - 8mm diameter means 50mm2 area, less restrictive than most rotary fittings.


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You don't have to buy from a water cooling shop. There is a healthy market for acrylic products outside of the computer world. Check locally for acrylic specialists. 12mm/8mm tubing is also an option - 8mm diameter means 50mm2 area, less restrictive than most rotary fittings.


I guess I should have articulated myself a little bit more carefully. I meant that there seems to be only one supplier of acrylic products in general in Finland, I wasn't talking only about water cooling shops. I think I'll send them an email anyway and ask how much would it cost to ship some to me. As far as I know there are no shops that sell acrylic stuff in my hometown, so I think I'm limited to online stores.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> It takes a little practice and getting used to it don't give up if you make a couple of mistakes.


Thanks man


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> So clean man, great job!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I agree great Job and looks so good and clean


Thanks. This is what it looks like lit.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> Thanks. This is what it looks like lit.


Good job!


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Good job!


Thanks. Check my build log in my sig for more pics and video. I'm also in this months MOTM.


----------



## MrBlunt

i reallly like the circuit board acrylic work.. so you cut out each line? then sprayed?


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> i reallly like the circuit board acrylic work.. so you cut out each line? then sprayed?


I printed the pattern on label paper, stuck it to the acrylic, cut out the lines, painted (2 coats of white, then 2 coats of black), then removed the remaining stencil







. Everything by hand. It took me 2 days to finish.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MrBlunt

i would LOOOOVE to do something similiar!.. i also have been thinking about adding a figurine to the inside of the reservoirs.. i was th inking i would drill holes in him and get some sort of suspension setup.. so they look like they are being grown in the reservoirs... i've also wanted to do a bunch of really small reservoirs.. like 9 lol.. and have them all have babies in them.. lol matrix style.. but those are just crazy ideas in my effd up brain.. =)


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> i would LOOOOVE to do something similiar!.. i also have been thinking about adding a figurine to the inside of the reservoirs.. i was th inking i would drill holes in him and get some sort of suspension setup.. so they look like they are being grown in the reservoirs... i've also wanted to do a bunch of really small reservoirs.. like 9 lol.. and have them all have babies in them.. lol matrix style.. but those are just crazy ideas in my effd up brain.. =)


That last part is actually a sweet idea and probably somewhat easy to do. You'd essentially need to find a plastic medical display prop of a baby inside clear plastic a womb, then find a way to fit it inside a reservoir (depending on the size of the prop), or have a cylindrical reservoir made and fill it with a transparent blood red coolant... Then you do a similar background procedure like DreadManD's build, but have the Matrix code trickling down, and backlit in green. Have everything else done in black, or if you want to take your creativity even further, wrap patent leather on a board for your midplate, and use with all black fittings... If there ever was a way to do a Matrix themed build, that would be it.

Unless you do what these guys did:



Source: http://www.pcmodhouse.com/id17.html


----------



## MrBlunt

that one coming out of hte side is Amaaaaazing!!


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> I printed the pattern on label paper, stuck it to the acrylic, cut out the lines, painted (2 coats of white, then 2 coats of black), then removed the remaining stencil
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Everything by hand. It took me 2 days to finish.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I cant tell you how cool this is.. def on my todo list now.


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> I cant tell you how cool this is.. def on my todo list now.


B Negative used a vinyl cutter in his latest build. If I was to do this again I will get one to do my stencils. You can get perfect cuts and not to mention save a lot of time.


----------



## QAKE

A little teaser for my ultimate weapon for Acrylic tubes bending:


----------



## Hefner

Are there any bending mandrels available with a smaller bending radius than the Monsoon mandrels?

I'm at the point where I'm able to get flawless bends without any sort of mandrels, however, they still lack uniformity. It would be nice if my bends would all be exactly the same.


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Are there any bending mandrels available with a smaller bending radius than the Monsoon mandrels?
> 
> I'm at the point where I'm able to get flawless bends without any sort of mandrels, however, they still lack uniformity. It would be nice if my bends would all be exactly the same.


I'm the same way. I did all my bends freehand. The radius on the Monsoon mandrels were too big for my runs. I do have my eye on the Primochill bender though. It looks like you can get tighter bends with it. Does anyone on here have one?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1286&products_id=40785


----------



## stebbiro

Anyone know where to get copper colored fittings like the Alphacool Shiny Copper fittings only for acrylic?


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> I'm the same way. I did all my bends freehand. The radius on the Monsoon mandrels were too big for my runs. I do have my eye on the Primochill bender though. It looks like you can get tighter bends with it. Does anyone on here have one?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_413_1286&products_id=40785


Looks like a nice tool, however, it isn't what I'm looking for as it isn't shaped like the tube. Results will probably be similar to using a random rounded corner of a random object, which were not that great when I tried. I think you really need that tube shape for those great results.

Sadly the Monsoon mandrels won't work for my build. I also find those big radius bends to be much less aesthetically pleasing than those tight bends I'm able to achieve freehanded.

I think I'll ask monsoon whether they make a custom mandrel for my needs, or perhaps I'll contact a 3D printing company. I suck at CAD though.


----------



## CasP3r

Well, when I looked a little bit more carefully I found a local store that sells acrylic tubing.







I ended up paying 3,70€/m, not too bad I guess.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> Well, when I looked a little bit more carefully I found a local store that sells acrylic tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up paying 3,70€/m, not too bad I guess.


Glad to hear it


----------



## Ovrclck

Quick question, I always have a hard time getting this bend down clean. How are you guys doing it? What I'm doing is making the 90 using the monsoon mandrel then free handing the other 90,is that correct?









Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quick question, I always have a hard time getting this bend down clean. How are you guys doing it? What I'm doing is making the 90 using the monsoon mandrel then free handing the other 90,is that correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


That's pretty much the jist of it... Get one down via the mandrels, then freehand the other one... Provided you're only working with the Monsoon mandrels and don't have a workbench setup. Most of my bends were done freehanded, because it just seemed faster that way.

Just make sure your cord completely fills the tubing though. The Monsoon cord that came with my kit doesn't completely encompass the inner diameter of the E22 up, so I've ended up destroying perfectly good acrylic because of a few millimeters of empty space. But fortunately, I also bought the PPCs brand cord, and that did the job. In fact, it's too good to be true because you need to make sure that it's lubricated at all times while inside the acrylic. Otherwise, it'll be extremely difficult to remove, even with simple 90 degree bends. But one thing that it does well, are perfect bends.


----------



## MrBlunt

a little bit of veg oil, or soapy water will lubricate the inner tube.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> a little bit of veg oil, or soapy water will lubricate the inner tube.


I would not recommend using either veggy oil or soap. If you need some sort of lubricant then silicone grease, the kind diver's use on o-rings, is preferable. It's not expensive, it handles the heat well, and it leaves no harmful residues in your loop.

Veggy oil adds the risk of adding biological contaminants, same reason the suggestion to use olive oil by Primochill has been roundly disparaged in this thread, that and because it wouldn't rinse cleanly afterward without using soap, which leads me to why soap hasn't been recommended either ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> dish soap works great. and it is of course really easy to clean out of the tube after you are done, lol
> 
> 
> 
> Get a small tube of silicone grease and just smear the end of the tube,Dish soap isnt really recommended.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He is 100% right as soap is a oil based item and a drop of silicone will go for miles!! dose not coat anything or stop any cooling unlike oils!!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Soap might have oil as a raw material, and might contain an oily emollient (to make your hands soft), but chemically the _soap itself is a salt_. You can use soap safely on acrylic if you wash it away after, but not as a lubricant. I can think of three reasons not to use dish soap: 1) it will damage O-rings; 2) it might contain scouring particles which will mark your acrylic; and 3) white soap can contain titanium or aluminium oxide particles which might accelerate galvanic corrosion.
> 
> Silicone grease is an oil. It's a useful lubricant in water cooling because it's a non-biological oil, so it won't swell O-rings or become food for any bacteria.
Click to expand...


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Quick question, I always have a hard time getting this bend down clean. How are you guys doing it? What I'm doing is making the 90 using the monsoon mandrel then free handing the other 90,is that correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> That's pretty much the jist of it... Get one down via the mandrels, then freehand the other one... Provided you're only working with the Monsoon mandrels and don't have a workbench setup. Most of my bends were done freehanded, because it just seemed faster that way.
> 
> Just make sure your cord completely fills the tubing though. The Monsoon cord that came with my kit doesn't completely encompass the inner diameter of the E22 up, so I've ended up destroying perfectly good acrylic because of a few millimeters of empty space. But fortunately, I also bought the PPCs brand cord, and that did the job. In fact, it's too good to be true because you need to make sure that it's lubricated at all times while inside the acrylic. Otherwise, it'll be extremely difficult to remove, even with simple 90 degree bends. But one thing that it does well, are perfect bends.
Click to expand...

OK cool, so I wasn't doing it wrong. The Buna 9mm cord works great with E22. Lubrication not needed. Thanks for the advice! Time to go play









Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## SSTGohanX

How did my bends turn out?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSTGohanX*
> 
> 
> How did my bends turn out?


looks great man!

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSTGohanX*
> 
> 
> 
> How did my bends turn out?


Gorgeous!!


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> a little bit of veg oil, or soapy water will lubricate the inner tube.


I've done oils (veggie & olive), soapy water, and just plain water, and good old H2O seems to be easier. Although it doesn't provide the same amount of anti friction lubrication as the others, I don't have to worry about cleaning it out of the bent tubes when I'm done... Because as I've found out over time, it creates a nasty film on the inside of the tubes you've bent if you don't rinse it out thoroughly, and use some kind of pipe cleaner, paper towel, or rag to physically rub off the residue film... With plain old water, you don't have that problem. Which is why I prefer that over anything else. But that's just my own experience. Whatever you use to get the job done, by all means, stick with that.


----------



## MrBlunt

thats why i use soapy water.. *dishsoap* it rinses out perfectly with no trace left over.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Yeah but trace amounts of soap leftover can possibly be harmful to your loop, as B Negative and WiSK pointed out in the quotes in my post above.

If you're going to use any sort of lubricant, your best bet is silicone grease. It's safe for o-rings and acrylic, handles the heat well and is food-grade so has no risk of biological contamination.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> thats why i use soapy water.. *dishsoap* it rinses out perfectly with no trace left over.


Even with a thorough rinsing of the soapy water after bending, I've had small traces of a hazy film left over inside. It's not that I'm not thorough with my cleaning, or the ratio of water to dish soap, I just haven't had any luck using it... Who knows, the hazy film could have been the result of the brand of dish soap I used. Or, it could be because of a chemical reaction once the soapy water is heated up, and it leaves the film.

*Anyone else, please feel free to chime in if this has happened to you.


----------



## seross69

If i use any thing it is a half drop of silicone.. I have the one for aquariums so pretty sure it will not hurt anything


----------



## sdcalihusker

Hey All,

I've updated my build with hard acrylic. Still no where close to being a pro with it, but was a great challenge.


----------



## Ovrclck

Still looks great man. Working with acrylic isn't easy.









Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## SSTGohanX

So! Oops.



Well...I suppose I really didn't like the Hardline fittings anyway. I just ordered primochill fittimgs instesd of waiting the possibly month for some place to have the monsoon lock collars in stock lol. Anyone else have lock collar issues btw? I did crack 4 of them out of random while in the gluing process.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSTGohanX*
> 
> So! Oops.
> 
> 
> 
> [...]


Oh my. I sure hope you can laugh that, or at least forgive me because I sure did.









Those lock collars sure do make the process a bit more complicated. On top of that they do seem to be sold out everywhere.

We've all done something like that before. Bet you won't make that mistake again.


----------



## SSTGohanX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Oh my. I sure hope you can laugh that, or at least forgive me because I sure did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those lock collars sure do make the process a bit more complicated. On top of that they do seem to be sold out everywhere.
> 
> We've all done something like that before. Bet you won't make that mistake again.


Haha yeah I was kind of upset at first...then kind of said 'well...whatever.' hey,, you live and learn, right? I wasn't really digging the look of them in my build anyway. When lock collars are in stock somewhere i'll just sell the fittings for like half price instead.


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSTGohanX*
> 
> So! Oops.
> 
> 
> 
> Well...I suppose I really didn't like the Hardline fittings anyway. I just ordered primochill fittimgs instesd of waiting the possibly month for some place to have the monsoon lock collars in stock lol. Anyone else have lock collar issues btw? I did crack 4 of them out of random while in the gluing process.


Oh my.. I know the feeling of having to redo the bends for your loop. I also used the hardline fittings and I had to redo my bends 3 times because my tubes cracked twice. It also looks like you placed those washers in the wrong place.


----------



## Ovrclck

A few hours later, cpu to mosfet done. Only wasted 166mm of acrylic this round.









Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSTGohanX*
> 
> So! Oops.
> 
> 
> 
> Well...I suppose I really didn't like the Hardline fittings anyway. I just ordered primochill fittimgs instesd of waiting the possibly month for some place to have the monsoon lock collars in stock lol. Anyone else have lock collar issues btw? I did crack 4 of them out of random while in the gluing process.


I must have been living in a cave or something for the last 8 months because I don't ever recall seeing those fittings before.

What are they, who makes them, what sizes do they come in, and are there any up close pictures of them?


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> A few hours later, cpu to mosfet done. Only wasted 166mm of acrylic this round.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


That hard part is achieving the perfect bend... And the rewarding part is that once you've achieved that bend, you don't ever have to touch that acrylic bend ever again, once it's fitted inside your build.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SSTGohanX*
> 
> So! Oops.
> 
> 
> 
> Well...I suppose I really didn't like the Hardline fittings anyway. I just ordered primochill fittimgs instesd of waiting the possibly month for some place to have the monsoon lock collars in stock lol. Anyone else have lock collar issues btw? I did crack 4 of them out of random while in the gluing process.
> 
> 
> 
> I must have been living in a cave or something for the last 8 months because I don't ever recall seeing those fittings before.
> 
> What are they, who makes them, what sizes do they come in, and are there any up close pictures of them?
Click to expand...

What is pictured are not any fittings. Those are the Hardline lock collars glued on the pieces of acrylic for Monsoon's Hardline fittings (surely you have heard of those? If not see the links B Neg added to the first post).

What SSTGohanXc did wrong is glue the lock collars to both ends of the bent tubes without first putting the compression rings of the fittings. If you don't slide the compression ring of the fitting on the tube first, and you don't realize it until after you have UV cured the glue, you have just made scrap. There is no way to get the fitting compression rings on after that.

edit:


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> What is pictured are not any fittings. Those are the Hardline lock collars glued on the pieces of acrylic for Monsoon's Hardline fittings (surely you have heard of those? If not see the links B Neg added to the first post).
> 
> What SSTGohanXc did wrong is glue the lock collars to both ends of the bent tubes without first putting the compression rings of the fittings. If you don't slide the compression ring of the fitting on the tube first, and you don't realize it until after you have UV cured the glue, you have just made scrap. There is no way to get the fitting compression rings on after that.
> 
> edit:


I watched the video a couple of minutes ago, thanks...


----------



## QAKE

Hello,
Here is my first prototype for a bending tool, to have precise and good looking bends:
It is made of aluminum, but I think that in wood would be also okay, and less expensive

How you use it:
First you have a ruler that indicate each centimeter.
You put your tube on this table, also on the block that is on the bottom, then you bend your tube to the angle you want (each line correspond to 15°, the bend is made around a cone of aluminum of 20mm of diameter
if you want a larger bend, on the left you tan choose between 20, 40 and 60mm of diameter.
There is also a 20mm diameter cone you can translate, to make a "S" form

If you have access to a CNC to work on metals or wood, feel free to PM me to have the Solidworks blueprints!!!

First a little bit of sanding, so the black paint would stick to the alu




Aluminium sanding don't make your hands white or black, but you're grey!!!


After painting





I added our logo


----------



## MrBlunt

broseph... NICE!!!


----------



## Barefooter

Nice bending jig! That thing is awesome!


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> broseph... NICE!!!


Quote:


> Nice bending jig! That thing is awesome!


Haha thanks, I've tested a similar prototype for my first bending ever, here are some pictures of the bends:









I'll also add a little tutorial, so you can understand how it works


----------



## ProfeZZor X

If you're up to the task, I would suggest going back and redoing some of those bends, as some of them seem to have a few imperfections in them. In some spots it appears to flatten out in your bends, while other places it wrinkles on the inner curve.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> That hard part is achieving the perfect bend... And the rewarding part is that once you've achieved that bend, you don't ever have to touch that acrylic bend ever again, once it's fitted inside your build.


Yup! I went ahead and scrapped that bend for now.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ProfeZZor X*
> 
> If you're up to the task, I would suggest going back and redoing some of those bends, as some of them seem to have a few imperfections in them. In some spots it appears to flatten out in your bends, while other places it wrinkles on the inner curve.


Yeah, now that I have more experience, the news will be better, but this PC (HERE) is to sell. I want to sell it because I really want to do more modding








I bended those tubes far too fast, so you can see the imperfections.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

FYI, Primochill's Revolvers now come with pinstripes ...


----------



## Wolfsbora

I'm liking those black and white fittings.


----------



## sinnedone

I think they're machined into the alum, not painted from what it looks like in the picture.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I think they're machined into the alum, not painted from what it looks like in the picture.


If you are talking about the new Primochill fittings, I'm not sure. They sort of look like they could be both machined and painted. PrimoChill is calling them "Dual Tone" fittings, for whatever that's worth.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you are talking about the new Primochill fittings, I'm not sure. They sort of look like they could be both machined and painted. PrimoChill is calling them "Dual Tone" fittings, for whatever that's worth.


I think they are machined. Check out this video at 12:40


----------



## sdcalihusker

Question for the professional acrylic benders here: I bought clear acrylic tubing from US Plastics, and I noticed that most of my bends have some very serious clouding regardless of how far away from the heat gun I do the heating. Is this something I would also see with something like primochill? I bought the cheaper stuff because I knew I would be going through a ton of it trying to get some complex bends done, and lacking a lot of experience.

Here is what I am seeing:


My hope is that this is because of using lower quality acrylic tubing. It does seem that if I set the heat gun on the lowest setting and hold the acrylic about 12 inches away, I can avoid most of the clouding. I am using the gun provided in the monsoon kit. Any help or tips? Thanks guys.


----------



## lowfat

How long are you heating it? If you are heating on low it will take a few minutes to heat up. You definitely don't need to be holding it so far away. I do maybe 2 inches away.

Is that extruded acrylic? I have only ever used Primochill due to availability up here but I can't seeing it being any different.


----------



## sdcalihusker

Low, yes it is extruded. I heated that piece at about 2 inches on high, but get the same result on low unless I'm about a foot away. When I'm a foot away, it does take about 2-3 min on low to heat to where I can bend. I did the same kind of bend on white primochill and did not notice any kind of discoloration, but because it was white and not clear, I couldn't make a good comparison. If I take my time, it turns out much better. Just wanted to see if I could expect the same kind of pit-fall with more expensive acrylic. Is the primochill a cast acrylic by chance?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> Low, yes it is extruded. I heated that piece at about 2 inches on high, but get the same result on low unless I'm about a foot away. When I'm a foot away, it does take about 2-3 min on low to heat to where I can bend. I did the same kind of bend on white primochill and did not notice any kind of discoloration, but because it was white and not clear, I couldn't make a good comparison. If I take my time, it turns out much better. Just wanted to see if I could expect the same kind of pit-fall with more expensive acrylic. Is the primochill a cast acrylic by chance?


Out of total curiousity, have you tried polishing it using a good plastic polisher?


----------



## sdcalihusker

LOL! I just took some 1500 grit sand paper to it, and used the polishing compound for my headlight restoration kit, and it cleaned up right as rain! Thanks for the tip!


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> Question for the professional acrylic benders here: I bought clear acrylic tubing from US Plastics, and I noticed that most of my bends have some very serious clouding regardless of how far away from the heat gun I do the heating. Is this something I would also see with something like primochill? I bought the cheaper stuff because I knew I would be going through a ton of it trying to get some complex bends done, and lacking a lot of experience.
> 
> Here is what I am seeing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My hope is that this is because of using lower quality acrylic tubing. It does seem that if I set the heat gun on the lowest setting and hold the acrylic about 12 inches away, I can avoid most of the clouding. I am using the gun provided in the monsoon kit. Any help or tips? Thanks guys.


I have not seen that with Primochill or E22 acrylic.

Primochill has PETG tubing now as well, I think they switched to it but the older stuff is most likely widely available still. FCPU lists both.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Primochill acrylic tube is extruded, as I believe is every other small diameter acrylic tubing. I don't think anyone manufactures a cast acrylic tube in diameters smaller than 1.5" or thereabouts.

Not sure why yours would cloud, but I've not ever tried holding the tube more than ~3-4" away from the heatgun and keep it slowly but constantly turning and moving back and forth if that makes any difference. I've used both tube from McMaster-Carr and Primochill.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> LOL! I just took some 1500 grit sand paper to it, and used the polishing compound for my headlight restoration kit, and it cleaned up right as rain! Thanks for the tip!


Really glad to hear it! I'd hate for you to have to redo your bends.


----------



## sdcalihusker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Primochill acrylic tube is extruded, as I believe is every other small diameter acrylic tubing. I don't think anyone manufactures a cast acrylic tube in diameters smaller than 1.5" or thereabouts.
> 
> Not sure why yours would cloud, but I've not ever tried holding the tube more than ~3-4" away from the heatgun and keep it slowly but constantly turning and moving back and forth if that makes any difference. I've used both tube from McMaster-Carr and Primochill.


I used basically the same technique. I guess the good news is that even if I manage to cloud it up, with a little elbow grease and Mothers Headlight polish, I can restore it to a clear form again


----------



## Destrto

For what it's worth, that happened to me a couple of times with Monsoon's tubing when i tried bending it before it had softened up enough.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Yeah, now that I have more experience, the news will be better, but this PC (HERE) is to sell. I want to sell it because I really want to do more modding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bended those tubes far too fast, so you can see the imperfections.


I made a lot of costly mistakes bending too fast in the beginning, and ended up wasting 20 feet of acrylic for not being patient enough and putting the heat gun setting on low. I've learned a lot since then and now I've perfected my methods... For instance, one trick that I've learned is that if you have a small piece of acrylic that requires a couple of bends close to the ends of the acrylic, it's best that you put the fitting on the ends so that the heat doesn't warp the shape of the acrylic end, making it impossible to put a fitting on it.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdcalihusker*
> 
> Question for the professional acrylic benders here: I bought clear acrylic tubing from US Plastics, and I noticed that most of my bends have some very serious clouding regardless of how far away from the heat gun I do the heating. Is this something I would also see with something like primochill? I bought the cheaper stuff because I knew I would be going through a ton of it trying to get some complex bends done, and lacking a lot of experience.
> 
> Here is what I am seeing:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My hope is that this is because of using lower quality acrylic tubing. It does seem that if I set the heat gun on the lowest setting and hold the acrylic about 12 inches away, I can avoid most of the clouding. I am using the gun provided in the monsoon kit. Any help or tips? Thanks guys.


All acrylics and acrylic tubes are a synthetic polymer and they are not all created the same. There are many different variations of the synthetic polymers and the typical acrylic tubes we see for watercooling are polymethyl methacrylate which has high temperature resistance, great optical clarity, weatherability, & resistance to sunlight. There are some synthetic polymers that uses polyester which is known to crystallize during thermoforming (bending after heat has been applied) which can cause it to become hazy.

My guess is that you are applying too much heat too quickly. The haze typically happens at the higher end of its glass transition temperature (point when the materials becomes malleable). Certain synthetic polymers, such as the polyester based one, have a narrow heat forming window and will haze if thermoformed at too high temperatures.

Hope this helps and adds some light to your situation.


----------



## Valor958

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> All acrylics and acrylic tubes are a synthetic polymer and they are not all created the same. There are many different variations of the synthetic polymers and the typical acrylic tubes we see for watercooling are polymethyl methacrylate which has high temperature resistance, great optical clarity, weatherability, & resistance to sunlight. There are some synthetic polymers that uses polyester which is known to crystallize during thermoforming (bending after heat has been applied) which can cause it to become hazy.
> 
> My guess is that you are applying too much heat too quickly. The haze typically happens at the higher end of its glass transition temperature (point when the materials becomes malleable). Certain synthetic polymers, such as the polyester based one, have a narrow heat forming window and will haze if thermoformed at too high temperatures.
> 
> Hope this helps and adds some light to your situation.


Regarding the higher end acrylic tubing out there, what brands might you recommend for those who plan on doing quite a bit of pipe bending? Next year i should have all the parts together to assemble my build and want to get it done right the first time around







I've seen Primochill's name dropped quite a few times.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valor958*
> 
> Regarding the higher end acrylic tubing out there, what brands might you recommend for those who plan on doing quite a bit of pipe bending? Next year i should have all the parts together to assemble my build and want to get it done right the first time around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen Primochill's name dropped quite a few times.


This stuff works great from Mcmaster. Bends really nice.

Part# 8532K13 Uv-resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" Od, 3/8" Id, 6' Length, Clear
http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532K13

Bending cord
9808K23 Fda-compliant Silicone Rubber, Cord, 3/8" Diameter, 36" Length, 50a Durometer (medium)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#9808K23


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valor958*
> 
> Regarding the higher end acrylic tubing out there, what brands might you recommend for those who plan on doing quite a bit of pipe bending? Next year i should have all the parts together to assemble my build and want to get it done right the first time around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen Primochill's name dropped quite a few times.


Im very happy with my Primochill tubing, the only challenge is that you have to use their fittings since there are not many other options in that size, but it has a lot of color options and it bends well.


----------



## Sym8iant

I have been pleased with my PrimoChill experience. First time for both water cooling and acrylic so it was rough going in the beginning but I got the hang of it pretty quick. I did end up getting a different cord than what they sent to use inside though, it fits tight enough to make for good bends but has just enough play so that you don't have to use any lubrication. I got it from McMaster I believe, it's been a little while now.

On a side note..I had been running my machine, gaming, benching etc for a few weeks and last night a very very small pin hole showed up in the middle of a long run. It was on part of the tube that I did not heat or bend as it was the straight part in between a couple bends. Not sure why it took so long to present itself or how. Was lucky enough to be sitting by the machine when it started and that it just dripped onto my midplate. Oh well, it was the GPU loop that I was about to have to drain to add another card anyway.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> Im very happy with my Primochill tubing, the only challenge is that you have to use their fittings since there are not many other options in that size, but it has a lot of color options and it bends well.


If you are looking for different options, compression fittings from Primochill and Monsoon, and push-fit fittings from Rocket Science, all will fit Primochill's (or any other 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID) tubing. If I'm not mistaken that's probably as many (if not more?) fitting options for imperial sized tubing than there are for metric sized tube.


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valor958*
> 
> Regarding the higher end acrylic tubing out there, what brands might you recommend for those who plan on doing quite a bit of pipe bending? Next year i should have all the parts together to assemble my build and want to get it done right the first time around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen Primochill's name dropped quite a few times.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> This stuff works great from Mcmaster. Bends really nice.
> 
> Part# 8532K13 Uv-resistant Extruded Acrylic Round Tube, 1/2" Od, 3/8" Id, 6' Length, Clear
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532K13
> 
> Bending cord
> 9808K23 Fda-compliant Silicone Rubber, Cord, 3/8" Diameter, 36" Length, 50a Durometer (medium)
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#9808K23


I've had very bad luck with those tubing. I would recommend the PETG instead because it is easier to bend and it is a lot more forgiving if you want to reheat it to get your bend right.

Machinable and Bendable Clear PETG Tube 1/2" OD, 3/8" ID
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9245k21/=srihmo


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valor958*
> 
> Regarding the higher end acrylic tubing out there, what brands might you recommend for those who plan on doing quite a bit of pipe bending? Next year i should have all the parts together to assemble my build and want to get it done right the first time around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen Primochill's name dropped quite a few times.


PrimoChill, EK, and E22 are the popular brands of acrylic tubes that many have used in their builds and are of the PMMA variation of acrylics.
We're starting to see polyester based acrylic tubes (PETG) which are more resistant to fracturing and have a lower melting point so they soften and bend much quicker and at lower temps. I don't have any experience with PETG acrylics tho.
You can't go wrong with any of the above 3 brands. Once you get enough practice and get the feel for it, you'll be making perfect bends in no time.
I've used PrimoChill and EK acrylics in my builds and have had great results. I haven't used E22 acrylics but I'd assume they work similar to the EK acrylics.
If you're first starting out, I'd recommend EK or E22 as they are a bit more forgiving than the PrimoChill acrylics.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> I haven't used E22 acrylics but I'd assume they work similar to the EK acrylics.
> If you're first starting out, I'd recommend EK or E22 as they are a bit more forgiving than the PrimoChill acrylics.


I find that E22 works better for me than EK. I'm sure it's just a matter of modifying my technique a bit.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> We're starting to see polyester based acrylic tubes (PETG) which are more resistant to fracturing ...


That MNPCtech video has a lot to answer for. How often do you hit your tubing with a hammer?

B Negative posted this to show the strength of acrylic when it's under duress...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


----------



## lowfat

Hopefully this PETG fad dies out. Although a lot of the big name builders seem to be using it. Although those systems never actually get used besides for a couple of days at a show.


----------



## MrBlunt

lol i have like 12ft of PETG =|....... my original bad experience with acrylic and cracks, were because.. *DrumRoll* Alcohol... lol i had a MASSIVE leak and so i cleaned the entire mobo with 98% alcohol w/o removing the tubes.. then i coudlnt figure out why EVERY bend was showing stress cracks.. before i thought it was because of the instability of hte case. After this last build im sure acrylic is fine. PETG is also easy to use.. i will use it in my next build that will most likely be very UV lit. so i shall put it to the test..


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valor958*
> 
> Regarding the higher end acrylic tubing out there, what brands might you recommend for those who plan on doing quite a bit of pipe bending? Next year i should have all the parts together to assemble my build and want to get it done right the first time around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen Primochill's name dropped quite a few times.


Am I the only one to use EKWB acrylic tubes and fittings?
Well, the tubes are expensive, so I buy the tubes in a small company near my house, with the same measurements (just longer, 800mm instead of 500mm).
I like the fittings too, they're really effective and simple to use.

Oh, and to remove stress from your tubes, cook them!

Shall I post my experiences here? I was doing my bending yesterday, and made some little experiments with extra tubes I bought


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Oh, and to remove stress from your tubes, cook them!


Just a bit of clarification - what you are describing in the "cook them" thing is called annealing. It is done post bending to strengthen the tubes. It does not remove stress - nor stress fractures already present. It simply strengthens the tube after bending to lessen chance of stress fractures occurring down the road.

There are some inherent dangers in this as well. The temp must be closely controlled to keep low enough not to completely soften the tubing and ruin your bends. when heating (most often done in a conventional oven space) fumes are given off by the acrylic that can be flammable and carcinogenic in quantity. Do not do this unless you follow precautions and read up on it.


----------



## kimoswabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That MNPCtech video has a lot to answer for. How often do you hit your tubing with a hammer?
> 
> B Negative posted this to show the strength of acrylic when it's under duress...


Agreed! If you're experiencing force big enough to shatter or break an acrylic tube inside your case (regardless of the type or brand), your rig is probably experiencing some serious catastrophic and unrecoverable damage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Am I the only one to use EKWB acrylic tubes and fittings?
> Well, the tubes are expensive, so I buy the tubes in a small company near my house, with the same measurements (just longer, 800mm instead of 500mm).
> I like the fittings too, they're really effective and simple to use.
> 
> Oh, and to remove stress from your tubes, cook them!
> 
> 
> Shall I post my experiences here? I was doing my bending yesterday, and made some little experiments with extra tubes I bought


Sure, why not? It's always good to see what others are doing and learning from their acrylic work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Hopefully this PETG fad dies out. Although a lot of the big name builders seem to be using it. Although those systems never actually get used besides for a couple of days at a show.


I think it's too early to tell if it's a fad or what not but it will be VERY interesting to see how the acrylic tubing market & industry pans out in the next year. It's only been like a year and half since acrylic tubes went mainstream and now look at how many different acrylic related items there are in the market. Definitely one of the biggest game changers in the watercooling industry in the last 5 years.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> Just a bit of clarification - what you are describing in the "cook them" thing is called annealing. It is done post bending to strengthen the tubes. It does not remove stress - nor stress fractures already present. It simply strengthens the tube after bending to lessen chance of stress fractures occurring down the road.


Wikipedia: (concerning metals)
"Annealing can induce ductility, soften material, *relieve internal stresses*, refine the structure by making it homogeneous, and improve cold working properties."

Wikipedia: (concerning glass and crystals in general)
"Annealing is a process of slowly cooling glass to *relieve internal stresses* after it was formed.

Wikipedia: (concerning Acrylic and stress)
"... However, the pulsed lasercutting introduces high internal stresses along the cut edge... *Annealing* the PMMA sheet/parts is therefore an *obligatory* post-processing step when intending to chemically bond lasercut parts together."

Well, I work also in Chemistry, and know a lot about plastics, such as PA, PS, PMMA (acrylic), etc...
So annealing is *important!*. BUT! As you said, it's difficult. Acrylic melt at 105°C, *BUT* commercial grade _Tg_ (Glass transition) value can be from 85°C to 165°C (due to impurities, co-monomers, copolymers, etc). You have to know EXACTLY the _Tg_ value of YOUR Acrylic. I asked mine to the company producing my tubes and it was at 115°C. I cooked mine at 95-100°C.
As you said, it release some pretty toxic components, so be sure that your oven AND your room is well ventilated.
But it can be achieved in your own kitchen by knowing :

- the _Tg_ of your acrylic,
- the precision of your oven,
- the ventilation of it and of the room

Indeed it was easy to me to say "Cook them all!!!!"
But you need to follow proper securities manners and knowing the properties of your Acrylic

I hope I cleared all the misunderstanding, And I hope that it can help the others too









Quote:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Shall I post my experiences here? I was doing my bending yesterday, and made some little experiments with extra tubes I bought
> 
> Originally posted by *kimoswabi*
> 
> Sure, why not? It's always good to see what others are doing and learning from their acrylic work.


I'll post it later, I'm still taking some pictures to describe some things









Stay tuned!









.


----------



## Destrto

I had a fairly easy time with Monsoon's line of Acrylic tubing and fittings. So I would recommend those on my personal experience.


----------



## Valor958

Thanks for the info, I'll probably go with EK since I'll be getting a lot from them I believe. I don't say much on here since i'm not actively doing anything yet, but i'll be lurking


----------



## MrBlunt

i like primochill Knurled Fittings.. Never had a leak, plus very easy to grip.


----------



## ozzy1925

my friend using this device for his rc model cars




Do you think will it work for bending?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> my friend using this device for his rc model cars
> 
> Do you think will it work for bending?


It is for metal pipe / rod bending.. It is not meant for delicate acrylic tubes.. My best bed is that you will scratch up / stretch your acrylic pretty bad, using that tool.
It allows for a LOT of force, but not suited for acrylic witch will almost bend on its own when heated.

I guess it can be used to bend around if you take off the flat bending arm and just bend the tubes around the round arm :S


----------



## QAKE

Acrylic bending can seems to be a little bit complicated for some people. I've always loved acrylic tubing, and I tried to put them in my first rig, the hackintosh. It was no pro bending and definitely not good looking tubing, but I managed to have no leaks in it









Anyway, I bought a lot of acrylic tubes in a nearby and small company, to make intentionally mistakes (and some unsuspected ones







). I ordered them to have the same specification as the EKWB EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 500mm (mine are a bit longer, 750mm).



Voilà my stuff I use for the bending:

A hot air gun with 2 speed settings (1500W), a silicone cord with a diameter of 11.9 mm (personal order in a small company in Switzerland), a small hacksaw, my personal bending tool (ask me for the SolidWorks blueprint/plan in PM), a water-sprayer (with distilled water), some sandpaper (and a Dremel, really faster than sandpaper), and a bucket of distilled water

My bending are made like this:

- Heat the tube with the silicon cord inside for about 2-3 minutes (use only distilled water to avoid residues on the tube)
- Bend it to the desired angle
- Spray it with the water spray (so the tube stay the angle you want)
- Cool it in some distilled water (warning, it does add a lot of internal stress in the tube if the water is too cold)
- To get rid of the stress in the tube, cook your tubes at 90°C in your oven (temperature depend on your acrylic)
- Chamfer your tubes at 45° and 0.5-1mm to avoid damaging the gasket (O-ring) in the fittings (for EKWB stuff)

Here is some small advices:

- Use always more tube than necessary (yeah, you can always cut it if it's too much, but when it's too small, you can't add more tube)
- Heat your tube really slowly and not too close of the heatgun (it makes bubbles on the tubes, and you really don't want that, because it looks awful)
- Alway heat about 4-6 cm of tubes (to avoid unwanted stress in the tubes)
- When you bend it, bend it slowly (again, to avoid stress in the tubes, but also to let the tube stretch uniformly on the external side of the bend, and also to avoid "bead on the internal side of the bend.
- Acrylic is like fiberglass, it carry the light really easily, think of it for amazing effects in your rigs!

Here are some pictures:

If you heat your tubes too quickly, here it what happens. BUUUUUBBBBLLES




You don't trust what you can't see? Stress is there, always there... And when you put your tubes in your rig and apply a little pressure, *CRAAAAACK!!!!*
Here are some proof: (to obtain such stress, I put a lot of water at -12°C (achieved with salts on water) on it to cool it, instead of the little waterspray at 25°C)




And when you apply a little more tension:



Demonstrating the light effect you can obtain with light




Chamfer your tubes to avoid gasket damaging! With EKWB stuff, don't know the other very well



Workplace:


Bending with my own designed tool: (I can give you the blueprint of it, just PM me







)





"Apply cold water on the burned area"


Cat goes ALWAYS in the way... Really too curious


*VOILÀ*

It's all I had to say...

I really hope it can help everyone!!!

PS: the PC you can see on some pictures is Project GAMMA, the build I'm currently building, almost finished.


----------



## defiler2k

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Acrylic bending can seems to be a little bit complicated for some people. I've always loved acrylic tubing, and I tried to put them in my first rig, the hackintosh. It was no pro bending and definitely not good looking tubing, but I managed to have no leaks in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I bought a lot of acrylic tubes in a nearby and small company, to make intentionally mistakes (and some unsuspected ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I ordered them to have the same specification as the EKWB EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 500mm (mine are a bit longer, 750mm).
> 
> 
> 
> Voilà my stuff I use for the bending:
> 
> A hot air gun with 2 speed settings (1500W), a silicone cord with a diameter of 11.9 mm (personal order in a small company in Switzerland), a small hacksaw, my personal bending tool (ask me for the SolidWorks blueprint/plan in PM), a water-sprayer (with distilled water), some sandpaper (and a Dremel, really faster than sandpaper), and a bucket of distilled water
> 
> My bending are made like this:
> 
> - Heat the tube with the silicon cord inside for about 2-3 minutes (use only distilled water to avoid residues on the tube)
> - Bend it to the desired angle
> - Spray it with the water spray (so the tube stay the angle you want)
> - Cool it in some distilled water (warning, it does add a lot of internal stress in the tube if the water is too cold)
> - To get rid of the stress in the tube, cook your tubes at 90°C in your oven (depend on your acrylic)
> - Chamfer your tubes at 45° and 0.5-1mm to avoid damaging the gasket (O-ring) in the fittings (for EKWB stuff)
> 
> Here is some small advices:
> 
> - Use always more tube than necessary (yeah, you can always cut it if it's too much, but when it's too small, you can't add more tube)
> - Heat your tube really slowly and not too close of the heatgun (it makes bubbles on the tubes, and you really don't want that, because it looks awful)
> - Alway heat about 4-6 cm of tubes (to avoid unwanted stress in the tubes)
> - When you bend it, bend it slowly (again, to avoid stress in the tubes, but also to let the tube stretch uniformly on the external side of the bend, and also to avoid "bead on the internal side of the bend.
> - Acrylic is like fiberglass, it carry the light really easily, think of it for amazing effects in your rigs!
> 
> Here are some pictures:
> 
> If you heat your tubes too quickly, here it what happens. BUUUUUBBBBLLES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't trust what you can't see? Stress is there, always there... And when you put your tubes in your rig and apply a little pressure, *CRAAAAACK!!!!*
> Here are some proof: (to obtain such stress, I put a lot of water at -12°C (achieved with salts on water) on it to cool it, instead of the little waterspray at 25°C)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when you apply a little more tension:
> 
> 
> 
> Demonstrating the light effect you can obtain with light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chamfer your tubes to avoid gasket damaging! With EKWB stuff, don't know the other very well
> 
> 
> 
> Workplace:
> 
> 
> Bending with my own designed tool: (I can give you the blueprint of it, just PM me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Apply cold water on the burned area"
> 
> 
> Cat goes ALWAYS in the way... Really too curious
> 
> 
> *VOILÀ*
> 
> It's all I had to say...
> 
> I really hope it can help everyone!!!
> 
> PS: the PC you can see on some pictures is Project GAMMA, the build I'm currently building, almost finished.






All very valid pointers, the key here is that you will make mistakes and to have patience once you get the feel for the tube you are using it will become more natural.

Also I agree with you on the stress fractures. I had two bends that cracked in the middle of the bend because of tension from the weight of the components, this is with primochill tubing Im not sure if other tubing has this same issue. I fixed this by planning my loop slightly differently to remove the tension.

Nice on the bending rig, you should sell those.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> 
> All very valid pointers, the key here is that you will make mistakes and to have patience once you get the feel for the tube you are using it will become more natural.
> 
> Also I agree with you on the stress fractures. I had two bends that cracked in the middle of the bend because of tension from the weight of the components, this is with primochill tubing Im not sure if other tubing has this same issue. I fixed this by planning my loop slightly differently to remove the tension.
> 
> *Nice on the bending rig, you should sell those.*


Nope.

I'll give the blueprints to anybody who want them. A computer is really expensive, so no need to add more cost to it!

You can make those in wood, plastic (like acetal) or in metal (like mine, in aluminum).

I'll also make a little tutorial with the possibilities of those bending tools.

I agree with you for the patience! Took me almost 6 hour to finish all my bends, cooking included...
But it pays back with the look!









For the fractures it can happen to each tube. Acrylic breaks and is not very elastic when too much tension is applied on it. It can be even worse with poor quality acrylic.


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Acrylic bending can seems to be a little bit complicated for some people. I've always loved acrylic tubing, and I tried to put them in my first rig, the hackintosh. It was no pro bending and definitely not good looking tubing, but I managed to have no leaks in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I bought a lot of acrylic tubes in a nearby and small company, to make intentionally mistakes (and some unsuspected ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I ordered them to have the same specification as the EKWB EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 500mm (mine are a bit longer, 750mm).
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Voilà my stuff I use for the bending:
> 
> A hot air gun with 2 speed settings (1500W), a silicone cord with a diameter of 11.9 mm (personal order in a small company in Switzerland), a small hacksaw, my personal bending tool (ask me for the SolidWorks blueprint/plan in PM), a water-sprayer (with distilled water), some sandpaper (and a Dremel, really faster than sandpaper), and a bucket of distilled water
> 
> My bending are made like this:
> 
> - Heat the tube with the silicon cord inside for about 2-3 minutes (use only distilled water to avoid residues on the tube)
> - Bend it to the desired angle
> - Spray it with the water spray (so the tube stay the angle you want)
> - Cool it in some distilled water (warning, it does add a lot of internal stress in the tube if the water is too cold)
> - To get rid of the stress in the tube, cook your tubes at 90°C in your oven (temperature depend on your acrylic)
> - Chamfer your tubes at 45° and 0.5-1mm to avoid damaging the gasket (O-ring) in the fittings (for EKWB stuff)
> 
> Here is some small advices:
> 
> - Use always more tube than necessary (yeah, you can always cut it if it's too much, but when it's too small, you can't add more tube)
> - Heat your tube really slowly and not too close of the heatgun (it makes bubbles on the tubes, and you really don't want that, because it looks awful)
> - Alway heat about 4-6 cm of tubes (to avoid unwanted stress in the tubes)
> - When you bend it, bend it slowly (again, to avoid stress in the tubes, but also to let the tube stretch uniformly on the external side of the bend, and also to avoid "bead on the internal side of the bend.
> - Acrylic is like fiberglass, it carry the light really easily, think of it for amazing effects in your rigs!
> 
> Here are some pictures:
> 
> If you heat your tubes too quickly, here it what happens. BUUUUUBBBBLLES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't trust what you can't see? Stress is there, always there... And when you put your tubes in your rig and apply a little pressure, *CRAAAAACK!!!!*
> Here are some proof: (to obtain such stress, I put a lot of water at -12°C (achieved with salts on water) on it to cool it, instead of the little waterspray at 25°C)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when you apply a little more tension:
> 
> 
> 
> Demonstrating the light effect you can obtain with light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chamfer your tubes to avoid gasket damaging! With EKWB stuff, don't know the other very well
> 
> 
> 
> Workplace:
> 
> 
> Bending with my own designed tool: (I can give you the blueprint of it, just PM me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Apply cold water on the burned area"
> 
> 
> Cat goes ALWAYS in the way... Really too curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *VOILÀ*
> 
> It's all I had to say...
> 
> I really hope it can help everyone!!!
> 
> PS: the PC you can see on some pictures is Project GAMMA, the build I'm currently building, almost finished.


Thank you so much for this post and very nice job on bending rig you've made!








+rep


----------



## MrBlunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buehlar*
> 
> Thank you so much for this post and very nice job on bending rig you've made!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +rep


The one thing i would change, is cooling in water. Always let it AIR DRY. As you demonstrated, a harsh drop in the temperature in the acrylic cooling encourages cracking and general weakness in the plastic. The cooling properties of water are many times that of plastic. so even if yo uthink the water is warm, its a really fast switch between bending temps and warm water.. so anyway.. always be patient and let them cool down in the air.. I would say a fan is ok... but still just like anything else im sure there is some degree of degradation speeding up cooling process. =) other than that.. Excellent post














+rep


----------



## MrBlunt

@QAKE


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Always let the tube cool naturally,do not use water like that to cool tube.

I have a video in this thread showing that acrylic tube does not fracture if done correctly.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Always let the tube cool naturally,do not use water like that to cool tube.
> 
> *I have a video in this thread showing that acrylic tube does not fracture if done correctly.*


^ --v








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*


----------



## MrBlunt

it wont fracture, but it weakens the acrylic on a molecular level.


----------



## QAKE

The goal of the distilled water cooling and then the annealing is similar to what's done with silicon monocrystals.

First, you add stress in the plastic by cooling it rapidly. You have to be attentive to not add too much stress in it. The polymers chains are disordered and some of them are shorter, because broken.

Second, you heat it to remove the stress. What happen on molecular scale into the plastic? The polymer chains are aligned in the direction of the plastic/tube/bend.

And what is the result of that? A stronger tube, less elastic and not as brittle than the normal one. The polymers chains are parallel.

This technique is always used to make difficult pieces that cannot be made with plastic injection (we use it to make some recipient in our lab).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> The goal of the distilled water cooling and then the annealing is similar to what's done with silicon monocrystals.
> 
> First, you add stress in the plastic by cooling it rapidly. You have to be attentive to not add too much stress in it. The polymers chains are disordered and some of them are shorter, because broken.
> 
> Second, you heat it to remove the stress. What happen on molecular scale into the plastic? The polymer chains are aligned in the direction of the plastic/tube/bend.
> 
> And what is the result of that? A stronger tube, less elastic and not as brittle than the normal one. The polymers chains are parallel.
> 
> This technique is always used to make difficult pieces that cannot be made with plastic injection (we use it to make some recipient in our lab).


If you just let it air cool,the need for stress relieving is massively reduced,adding stress just to remove it later is adding unnecessary steps.
There is a post I have made in this thread describing the methods of stress relief already.

While I like your attention to detail,you need to keep these things nice and simple for other members. If you require more 'strength' than what is shown in the video then you are doing it wrong.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you just let it air cool,the need for stress relieving is massively reduced,adding stress just to remove it later is adding unnecessary steps.
> There is a post I have made in this thread describing the methods of stress relief already.
> 
> While I like your attention to detail,you need to keep these things nice and simple for other members. If you require more 'strength' than what is shown in the video then you are doing it wrong.


Haha true! Sorry for that, I'm a bit fussy with the work!

Indeed the simplest way is to let it cool on air. So you don't have to bother with such complicated stuff.
My first bends were air cooled, and you can't tell the difference.

My apologies


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> If you just let it air cool,the need for stress relieving is massively reduced,adding stress just to remove it later is adding unnecessary steps.
> There is a post I have made in this thread describing the methods of stress relief already.
> 
> While I like your attention to detail,you need to keep these things nice and simple for other members. If you require more 'strength' than what is shown in the video then you are doing it wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Haha true! Sorry for that, I'm a bit fussy with the work!
> 
> Indeed the simplest way is to let it cool on air. So you don't have to bother with such complicated stuff.
> My first bends were air cooled, and you can't tell the difference.
> 
> My apologies
Click to expand...

Nothing to apologize for,everything you have done is indeed the correct method,stress relief on any formed material is good practice.
However,I cant help but feel that people are going to show up with tales of acrylic goo in the bottom of their oven.........


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Always let the tube cool naturally,do not use water like that to cool tube.
> 
> I have a video in this thread showing that acrylic tube does not fracture if done correctly.


+1 It takes a whole what?..Like 30-40secs to cool?
I have NEVER had a pipe crack/shatter on me due to the weight of a component.
Only time I have ever cracked a pipe was when putting it in the vise a lil' too tight while cutting.


----------



## DreadyDK

Hey guys i know this is the acrylic pipebending department, but im doing acrylic in my ongoing 250D build. And i would like to do it with out bending and use 90 fittings instead, im gonna use :




So to the question, can the 90 degrees angles just support them self only by being connected by fittings and tubing and "hanging" in the air ?

Not easy to describe when i dont really know the right words







hope u understand what i mean

Thanks.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadyDK*
> 
> Hey guys i know this is the acrylic pipebending department, but im doing acrylic in my ongoing 250D build. And i would like to do it with out bending and use 90 fittings instead, im gonna use :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So to the question, can the 90 degrees angles just support them self only by being connected by fittings and tubing and "hanging" in the air ?
> 
> Not easy to describe when i dont really know the right words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope u understand what i mean
> 
> Thanks.


Yeap, that will work.

While I suppose I can see the draw to using fittings instead of bending.. it just doesn't make sense to me. It feels like buying a car just to push it to the store.


----------



## DreadyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Yeap, that will work.
> 
> While I suppose I can see the draw to using fittings instead of bending.. it just doesn't make sense to me. It feels like buying a car just to push it to the store.


Thanks for the reply, guess it all about personal preference. I like the look better with 90 adapters


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

http://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/299zrm/discussion_i_will_never_buy_monsoon_products/

I'm about to use two 6 packs of these in my first loop. As I like to have all my bases covered, this puts me in quite a delicate position. Paranoid/overly-cautious comes to mind, but we're talking about many $ worth of hardware, so I don't know what to do just yet.....
What do you think?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> http://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/299zrm/discussion_i_will_never_buy_monsoon_products/
> 
> I'm about to use two 6 packs of these in my first loop. As I like to have all my bases covered, this puts me in quite a delicate position. Paranoid/overly-cautious comes to mind, but we're talking about many $ worth of hardware, so I don't know what to do just yet.....
> What do you think?


Hmm, that's pretty scary stuff. Personally, I would stay away. I'm OCD and the thought of it freaks me out lol


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadyDK*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, guess it all about personal preference. I like the look better with 90 adapters


But think of how much money you'd be saving if you skipped the 90 adapters..Just saying.


----------



## DreadyDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> But think of how much money you'd be saving if you skipped the 90 adapters..Just saying.


Hehe yeah would save like 110$ but then again, i just think it would look awesome


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> http://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/299zrm/discussion_i_will_never_buy_monsoon_products/
> 
> I'm about to use two 6 packs of these in my first loop. As I like to have all my bases covered, this puts me in quite a delicate position. Paranoid/overly-cautious comes to mind, but we're talking about many $ worth of hardware, so I don't know what to do just yet.....
> What do you think?


Looks like over tightened to me.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Hmm, that's pretty scary stuff. Personally, I would stay away. I'm OCD and the thought of it freaks me out lol


I know, same here! I know we're talking about water inside your PC, it involves a certain amount of risk, calculated to a certain degree. One would find it hard to find a single manufacturer, whose products weren't involved in a mishap for various reasons, improper installation or defective product. And I'm trying to eliminate as much risk as possible. Because these fittings are quite new,I feel like a beta tester in a way. Maybe the UV glue is at fault here, maybe the plastic collar, maybe the guy didn't install it properly or a combination of these. I don't feel to good in this position...
I think I already made up my mind before posting the link and will buy other fittings, just have to come to terms with my decision







..... because $$$$!


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks like over tightened to me.


Guy says he hand tighten them and then used the provided wrench to give it another 1/8 of a turn. If you believe that, it doesn't seem to be the case. Dunno man...


----------



## Jakusonfire

I always thought the monsoon fittings were solving a problem that didn't exist. I have tried lots of hard line fittings and have yet to find one that works or looks better than plain old Bitspower C47's. Low cost, easy to use, look great and more than secure enough for the real world.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

I bought them for aesthetic reasons only, didn't care for the 'mission critical' marketing punch lines they used, although it's my first time water cooling and the collars would make it more complicated then it has to be for a first timer. Took a quick peek at the Bitspower C47s and I like the minimalist design and the fact that they're for 12mm OD tubing. No thick tubing for me...


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> I bought them for aesthetic reasons only, didn't care for the 'mission critical' marketing punch lines they used, although it's my first time water cooling and the collars would make it more complicated then it has to be for a first timer. Took a quick peek at the Bitspower C47s and I like the minimalist design and the fact that they're for 12mm OD tubing. No thick tubing for me...


10mm / 12mm has a smaller OD than 3/8 1/2. At least from what I can decipher. E22 is pretty thin tbh.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> 10mm / 12mm has a smaller OD than 3/8 1/2. At least from what I can decipher. E22 is pretty thin tbh.


1/2 = 12.7mm


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> 1/2 = 12.7mm


Thank you


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Looks like over tightened to me.


Yup. That is exactly what it looks like to me as well.


----------



## QAKE

Small teaser of the final build. Pictures are coming tomorrow. Stay tuned!


----------



## Blackspots

Oh, I purchased 3 tubes of 8532K13 http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/ and 3 feet of 9679K27 http://www.mcmaster.com/#9679k27/

Its interesting that they shipped it before they charged my bank account.


----------



## hamed599

I have a question about PrimoChilll 1/2" OD Rigid Revolver Compression Dual Tone Fittings Whether It can be used with Monsoon 1/2" OD Hardline Tube?


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamed599*
> 
> I have a question about PrimoChilll 1/2" OD Rigid Revolver Compression Dual Tone Fittings Whether It can be used with Monsoon 1/2" OD Hardline Tube?


I dont see why it wouldn't work? same OD, no problem..
you can even use 1/2'' tubes from cheap off brand vendors that is not maid for water cooling (half the price if not less) but might vary in ID/OD more than the popular water cooling brands.

I forget? does monsoon tube come with the lock collars? or only with their fittings? (I think the latter) ofc, you wont need to use those for you revolvers (Im using chain guns







)


----------



## hamed599

If I can I use them It is excellent


----------



## Blackspots

Freaking $26.25 for shipping from McMaster Carr, but it'll be here tomorrow. Don't know if I'll buy from them again.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Freaking $26.25 for shipping from McMaster Carr, but it'll be here tomorrow. Don't know if I'll buy from them again.


That was one of the reasons I went with Monsoons packs from PPCS instead of getting any from USPlastics or MCMaster-Carr. Yea the tubing itself is cheaper, but the shipping came out to more than I would've paid for Monsoons packs + shipping from PPCS.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That was one of the reasons I went with Monsoons packs from PPCS instead of getting any from USPlastics or MCMaster-Carr. Yea the tubing itself is cheaper, but the shipping came out to more than I would've paid for Monsoons packs + shipping from PPCS.


FrozenCPU.com has them as well. With the OCN 5.1% discount, its slightly cheaper to purchase from there than Performance PCs.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> FrozenCPU.com has them as well. With the OCN 5.1% discount, its slightly cheaper to purchase from there than Performance PCs.


PPCS has its own discount code for 5.5% off. And PPCS has almost always had lower prices on anything I've compared between the 2 sites.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> PPCS has its own discount code for 5.5% off. And PPCS has almost always had lower prices on anything I've compared between the 2 sites.


Big reason for choosing FrozenCPU is that it is merchant member on resellerratings.com and has a higher rating than PPCS has (who isn't a merchant member on that website)

FrozenCPU has a 9.38 rating (from 14,815 reviews) http://www.resellerratings.com/store/FrozenCPU
Performance PC's has a 8.00 rating (from 600 reviews). http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Performance_PC_s

(For comparison, Newegg has a 8.96 rating, from 40,823 reviews)


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Big reason for choosing FrozenCPU is that it is merchant member on resellerratings.com and has a higher rating than PPCS has (who isn't a merchant member on that website)
> 
> FrozenCPU has a 9.38 rating (from 14,815 reviews) http://www.resellerratings.com/store/FrozenCPU
> Performance PC's has a 8.00 rating (from 600 reviews). http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Performance_PC_s
> 
> (For comparison, Newegg has a 8.96 rating, from 40,823 reviews)


I never put much stock in those ratings. It doesn't mean much when a majority of those are biased. The only site whose entry matters to me, is the BBB. And they're both listed there.

Frozencpu left a sour taste in my mouth after a product I ordered was falsely advertised, and then refused to take a return on the item. PPCS has been helpful with every issue I've addressed to them.

So I'll take lower prices and (on a solely personal basis) customer relations, over some ratings site.

If you prefer FCPU over PPCS, more power to you. My preference is PPCS. They're cheaper prices, and have been more willing to work with my issues than FCPU ever was.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I never put much stock in those ratings. It doesn't mean much when a majority of those are biased. The only site whose entry matters to me, is the BBB. And they're both listed there.
> 
> Frozencpu left a sour taste in my mouth after a product I ordered was falsely advertised, and then refused to take a return on the item. PPCS has been helpful with every issue I've addressed to them.
> 
> So I'll take lower prices and (on a solely personal basis) customer relations, over some ratings site.
> 
> If you prefer FCPU over PPCS, more power to you. My preference is PPCS. They're cheaper prices, and have been more willing to work with my issues than FCPU ever was.


They're both listed on the BBB, but PPCS is not BBB Accredited (but has a A+ rating) and FCPU is accredited, but has a A rating. Now that I know PPCS has a discount for this forum, I should compare the prices again.

What is the discount code for PPCS?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> They're both listed on the BBB, but PPCS is not BBB Accredited (but has a A+ rating) and FCPU is accredited, but has a A rating. Now that I know PPCS has a discount for this forum, I should compare the prices again.
> 
> What is the discount code for PPCS?


OCN55 is the discount code on PPCS.


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Freaking $26.25 for shipping from McMaster Carr, but it'll be here tomorrow. Don't know if I'll buy from them again.


Not unexpected from mcmaster.... they are mostly a B2B operation, as evidenced by the fact that they didn't invoice you until after shipping. I often get same day shipping when I order to my office, but you're going to pay for it...


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> OCN55 is the discount code on PPCS.


Ok, price comparison is that the difference is about $100 for what I would want to buy.

Now, FrozenCPU doesn't have the copper GTX670 waterblock and PPCS has them, so that's one big reason. ($40 cheaper because of that - for two of them).

The Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro is $33 cheaper at PPCS, plus the radiators are cheaper by a few dollars.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That was one of the reasons I went with Monsoons packs from PPCS instead of getting any from USPlastics or MCMaster-Carr. Yea the tubing itself is cheaper, but the shipping came out to more than I would've paid for Monsoons packs + shipping from PPCS.


Hmmm? How much tubing did you buy? Your shipping must be MUCH cheaper from them than they want to charge me.

A 4 pack of Monsoon Hardline tubing is $17 PPCs / $16 FCPU for 8' (4x2') of tubing plus shipping.
For me the cheapest shipping for an order of that tubing by itself is USPS priority mail which is $6.75 from PPCs and $7.84 FCPU.
With shipping factored into the price it comes out to about $3 a foot either way.
If I bought two 4 packs (16') it comes to $43 PPCs / $41.76 FCPU with their cheapest USPS shipping which is still over $2.60 per ft from either.

McMaster-Carr is $3.81 for a 6' tube. Shipping for me for 18' (three 6' pieces) of their tubing and a 3 foot 9mm Buna-N O-Ring Cord for a bending cord is UPS 2-day shipping for $20.48 making my total $32.00 even. That's $1.75 a foot and that includes in that price a MUCH better bending cord than Primochill or Monsoon sell (h/t to IT Diva). I have both of their bending cords. The Primochill one is junk imho and since it's only 14" (35cm) long I never even tried the Monsoon one.

Seeing as the first 12' of acrylic I tried bending went almost completely to scrap (every single one of the first dozen or so bends I tried to make) before I even started to figure out where I was going wrong, I'm extremely glad I bought McMaster-Carr tubing to practice with. Then again, I didn't really dig in to a forum like this one for advice first. I saw a Modzoo / MNPCTech vid where he said he did all his bends in his build freehand and it looked really good to me so I just went to try to do the same. lol. Perhaps your first results will be better than mine. I sure hope so.

If I'm not mistaken 1/2"x3/8" acrylic tubing from USPlastics is even cheaper than McMaster-Carr. They currently have it listed for $0.31 ft also sold in 6' lengths. No idea what their shipping charges are though.


----------



## Destrto

If I went with the tubing size i went with from Monsoon, 1/2" X 5/8", from McMaster Carr, it was $8.12 per 6' length. I don't know how much it would have been from USPlastics, i don't remember the numbers. But I remember it being awfully close to what I paid from PPCS altogether. Shipping from McMaster was nearly $25 for me though.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> If I went with the tubing size i went with from Monsoon, 1/2" X 5/8", from McMaster Carr, it was $8.12 per 6' length. I don't know how much it would have been from USPlastics, i don't remember the numbers. But I remember it being awfully close to what I paid from PPCS altogether. Shipping from McMaster was nearly $25 for me though.


http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/=sutu1t I paid $3.81 per 6' length on this one.


----------



## Wolfsbora

I went with McMasters-Carr. 4 - 6' tubes that are sitting right next to me. The shipping is definitely expensive but the product is significantly cheaper. Plus the cord that you can get from them is top notch, perfect size for the tube.


----------



## rwisdaman

+ repped, and dang I wished I had known about the discount code for PPCS.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#8532k13/=sutu1t I paid $3.81 per 6' length on this one.


The tubing I went with was 5/8" OD. So that wouldn't have worked for me.


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Guy says he hand tighten them and then used the provided wrench to give it another 1/8 of a turn. If you believe that, it doesn't seem to be the case. Dunno man...


I can tell you from experience the likelihood of what caused this. Full disclosure part: I am using primochill ghost in all fittings except 2 that I needed on the back of my AQ5, which are too close together for Ghosts. Had to use Monsoon. Easy to use and install, UV glue is just fine, make sure you have perfectly straight edges to your tubing and lightly sanded and deburred. Here is what happened to me (and the result looked _exactly_ like that pic). Installed and tightened down - hand only. filled system for bleed and pressure test. had a slight drip - gave a lil turn with the wrench. Drip stopped, no issue. system sat for 3 weeks while doing wiring and waiting for parts. suddenly started dripping out of the blue. On tear down to inspect, discovered the oring had fallen out during install and was laying in the corner of my case (black o-ring, black case, etc etc). The damage was identical to that. So either a) he overtightened or b) didn't see an o-ring not there, or out of place. They barely rest in the channel, so easy to fall out while installing.

As with any install, slow down. be patient. double check _everything_. You'll be fine. The fittings work beautifully, but do require more attention to install process than others. They are not forgiving on that holding ring if you have ugly gnarled ends.


----------



## Blackspots

My first bend (and second one - without the fitting). I don't have a heat gun yet, so I tried using the heat from my gas stove (one of the burners)


----------



## Destrto

Try a hair dryer, if you have one.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Try a hair dryer, if you have one.


I keep my hair short (and I'm a guy), so I don't need one. (even for pipe bending)


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> I keep my hair short (and I'm a guy), so I don't need one. (even for pipe bending)


I live with girls, so there's at least one around here if I didn't have my heatgun.

If you've got a Harbor Freight nearby, get their cheaper one. It's the one I went with and it works wonders.


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I live with girls, so there's at least one around here if I didn't have my heatgun.
> 
> If you've got a Harbor Freight nearby, get their cheaper one. It's the one I went with and it works wonders.


Yeah, Harbor Freight is about two miles from where I live. (Plus that's often where my work gets their tools from)


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yeah, Harbor Freight is about two miles from where I live. (Plus that's often where my work gets their tools from)


Definitely a plus. Mines in the next town over.

A little practice once you have that, and you'll be making some nice, clean bends in no time.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackspots*
> 
> Yeah, Harbor Freight is about two miles from where I live. (Plus that's often where my work gets their tools from)


Find a reason for them to order one and borrow it after work, _or at work, if you are in to that sort of thing







_


----------



## Blackspots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Find a reason for them to order one and borrow it after work, _or at work, if you are in to that sort of thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _


I work with the city street department, so that's a no. And they already have a heat gun.


----------



## mrinfinit3

A simple lil' build: **Srry so Dirty**
(just realized I've been posting in this thread for months but have never posted pics lol)









Currently working on modding the GPU back plates (thus why the top gpu is missing her's, as I needed it for template use)

**MY Thoughts/Conclusion*:*
_(Written back when I finished by build on another forum)_

I had thought it'd be more difficult that it was, and MUCH more expensive but it it really wasn't. In fact it actually cost me "less" than most of my other LCS builds using the soft "Tygon" type tubing as there are absolutely zero swivels/ 90's/ 45's/ extension fittings to purchase. The tubing itself was only $18 (shipped) for 5x 6'ft (1.85M) length, and the fitting were "typical" prices (pack of 6x for $20) which comes out to approx $3.50 per fitting...hell most "barbed" fittings cost more than that. (Note: They have gone up in price by $8USD per pack of 6) 2nd would have to be the "worry" factor... once the tubing's in..it's there.. no worries about kinking when things get "hot", no blow-out's/bubbling, and definitely no re-tightening of compression fittings. It can get "costly" if a person were to purchase things like "professional bending kits", UV light "hardeners" (specific fittings), or "name branded" tubing such as those made by Primochill (which I don't recommend btw).

But the "advantage" doesn't really come up 'till you think about the long run of things... For one; you never have to worry about staining or bio build-up with acrylic, so no more having to swap out tubing every 6 months.
The "disadvantage" of course would be that once it's there, it's there (as said b4). If you need to get your cpu block out for a TIM re-application it's considerably more work as you can't just remove it and let it "hang" there for the 30 secs it takes o re-apply. Obviously; there other disadvantage would be "time". If you (or anyone else) decide to go this route, then plan on spending a good 2-3 days in just the "bending" stage. Most people don't have the patience for that; I know I used to not.

Now; I didn't use a bending mandrel kit such as those sold by Primochill and Monsoon. Most of my work (except the 90*s) was free hand. (used old empty solider reels as mandrels for the 90*s) I made a "cheap" reference board for bending to make sure that my bends were accurate and measured properly (shown below). As long as your "insert" is nice and tight along the inner wall of the tubing and the tubing is properly heated; you'll petty much always have a bend you'll be happy with.


Would like to note that one thing I did differently when building my reference board is that those dies (wheels) actually "free spin" which seems to have helped in relieving stress/pressure points while bending. As too much pressure while bending (even if HOT) will normally cause _some_ "flattening" @ the angle point, even if your ID remains perfect (due to the insert cord).

Using 300A power cable (70 cents per ft @ home depot) as bending cord. I find it to be just as flexible with more rigidity than the typically used solid surgical tubing.


----------



## steve1703

guys, Im having problem on fitting the tube in c47, like impossible. do I really need to sand the tube OD a little bit just to fit inside?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> guys, Im having problem on fitting the tube in c47, like impossible. do I really need to sand the tube OD a little bit just to fit inside?


Sounds like you're using the wrong size tube - what are you using?


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> guys, Im having problem on fitting the tube in c47, like impossible. do I really need to sand the tube OD a little bit just to fit inside?


What tubing?
Not a whole lot of information in your post there bud....


----------



## steve1703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> Sounds like you're using the wrong size tube - what are you using?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> What tubing?
> Not a whole lot of information in your post there bud....


not sure what brand is it, but had measure the tube (12mm OD 8mm ID).
And one more thing is, I need to sand down the tube edge like a V-shape to fit in right? saw alot people does it.


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> not sure what brand is it, but had measure the tube (12mm OD 8mm ID).
> And one more thing is, I need to sand down the tube edge like a V-shape to fit in right? saw alot people does it.


In general 12mm tube should fit without problem. I've used both e22 and EK brand 12mm tube and they fit very easily, yet tight once in.

I use a file at a 45 degree angle around the edge for a single rotation followed by some quick 400 grit wetsanding to smooth it out. You absolutely should not have to sand the tube just to make it fit, it should fit regardless. You need to do the file/sand so you don't hurt the o rings.

My guess is you were sent 1/2 inch tube which is 12.7mm.


----------



## steve1703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> In general 12mm tube should fit without problem. I've used both e22 and EK brand 12mm tube and they fit very easily, yet tight once in.
> 
> I use a file at a 45 degree angle around the edge for a single rotation followed by some quick 400 grit wetsanding to smooth it out. You absolutely should not have to sand the tube just to make it fit, it should fit regardless. You need to do the file/sand so you don't hurt the o rings.
> 
> My guess is you were sent 1/2 inch tube which is 12.7mm.


yea, should be 12.7mm because its abit more than 12mm OD. so it is wrong tube?


----------



## Jameswalt1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> yea, should be 12.7mm because its abit more than 12mm OD. so it is wrong tube?


If it's 12.7 then yes it's absolutely wrong. You need 12mm.

Try either e22 or EK tube to eliminate the risk. It'll be correct.


----------



## steve1703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jameswalt1*
> 
> If it's 12.7 then yes it's absolutely wrong. You need 12mm.
> 
> Try either e22 or EK tube to eliminate the risk. It'll be correct.


already measure the tube OD, seem like a 12.3mm OD.
1 question is, we must sand the tube OD a little bit to get it fit to c47? because I saw some tutorial on E22 website that they advise to sand it abit just to fit it.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> already measure the tube OD, seem like a 12.3mm OD.
> 1 question is, we must sand the tube OD a little bit to get it fit to c47? because I saw some tutorial on E22 website that they advise to sand it abit just to fit it.


Just finished my loop and I used C47s and E22 tubing. Didn't have to sand the tubing, it fit like a glove! All I did was chamfer the ends so the o rings don't get damaged.


----------



## steve1703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Just finished my loop and I used C47s and E22 tubing. Didn't have to sand the tubing, it fit like a glove! All I did was chamfer the ends so the o rings don't get damaged.


hmm, guess I have to purchase the tube. Anyone had try out EK tube with c47? just afraid it happen again like the current tube.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> hmm, guess I have to purchase the tube. Anyone had try out EK tube with c47? just afraid it happen again like the current tube.


Like jameswalt1 said, both EK and E22 "SHOULD" fit without issues. They're both 10/12mm ID/OD. There may be slight variances from one batch to another, depending on when and/or where the tubing was manufactured.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Just finished my loop and I used C47s and E22 tubing. Didn't have to sand the tubing, it fit like a glove! All I did was chamfer the ends so the o rings don't get damaged.


What did you do to the tube ends again?


----------



## OwaN

Has anyone heard anything about the monsoon economy fittings? I was keeping my eye on them over at PPCS because I wanted the matte black ones (1/2" OD). E-mailed to see if/when they were coming back in stock and this is what I got in response
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PPCS*
> There is an issue with these right now and so we have no ETA. Would the Primochill ones work for you?


When I asked if it was a problem with that specific finish or the fittings in general, I was told it was a legal issue and they could not discuss. So now the question I'm left with... is there a problem with the economy fittings as a whole (e.g. functional problems, leaks), just the matte black finish (chipping, supply issues), or is it a sales dispute with Monsoon? If it is the latter two, I would be more willing to change plans and go with a different finish, but I don't want to buy if they're faulty in any way. The rigid revolver primochills are a lot more expensive and bulkier looking than the monsoons, and the whole collar thing on the other monsoons is a turnoff.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Has anyone heard anything about the monsoon economy fittings? I was keeping my eye on them over at PPCS because I wanted the matte black ones (1/2" OD). E-mailed to see if/when they were coming back in stock and this is what I got in response
> When I asked if it was a problem with that specific finish or the fittings in general, I was told it was a legal issue and they could not discuss. So now the question I'm left with... is there a problem with the economy fittings as a whole (e.g. functional problems, leaks), just the matte black finish (chipping, supply issues), or is it a sales dispute with Monsoon? If it is the latter two, I would be more willing to change plans and go with a different finish, but I don't want to buy if they're faulty in any way. The rigid revolver primochills are a lot more expensive and bulkier looking than the monsoons, and the whole collar thing on the other monsoons is a turnoff.


As far as I know, mine have been working fine. No leaks, no chipping (I have the black chrome version). No faults of any kind that I can discern.


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> What did you do to the tube ends again?


Its champhering the edge to protect the o rings, you can do it with either a file or a tool like this.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21932/ex-tub-2299/Hard_Tubing_Internal_and_External_Reamer_Deburring_Tool.html


----------



## mrinfinit3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Has anyone heard anything about the monsoon economy fittings? I was keeping my eye on them over at PPCS because I wanted the matte black ones (1/2" OD). E-mailed to see if/when they were coming back in stock and this is what I got in response
> When I asked if it was a problem with that specific finish or the fittings in general, I was told it was a legal issue and they could not discuss. So now the question I'm left with... is there a problem with the economy fittings as a whole (e.g. functional problems, leaks), just the matte black finish (chipping, supply issues), or is it a sales dispute with Monsoon? If it is the latter two, I would be more willing to change plans and go with a different finish, but I don't want to buy if they're faulty in any way. The rigid revolver primochills are a lot more expensive and bulkier looking than the monsoons, and the whole collar thing on the other monsoons is a turnoff.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> As far as I know, mine have been working fine. No leaks, no chipping (I have the black chrome version). No faults of any kind that I can discern.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> As far as I know, mine have been working fine. No leaks, no chipping (I have the black chrome version). No faults of any kind that I can discern.


Same...No issues at all with mine. Have the standard "flat" black ones.
See pics on previous page.


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Same...No issues at all with mine. Have the standard "flat" black ones.
> See pics on previous page.


Good to know, I hope they manage to work out whatever issue they've got since I'd really prefer the matte black


----------



## Ksireaper

Just received my Acrylic Tubing from McMaster-Carr. It has tiny little scratches all over it. Has anyone else seen this? I think i could deal with it and use it, was just kind of annoying.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ksireaper*
> 
> Just received my Acrylic Tubing from McMaster-Carr. It has tiny little scratches all over it. Has anyone else seen this? I think i could deal with it and use it, was just kind of annoying.


you can use novus Plastic Polish and Scratch Remover .It worked for me:
http://www.amazon.com/Novus-Plastic-Polish-Scratch-Remover/dp/B000J41VDM


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> hmm, guess I have to purchase the tube. Anyone had try out EK tube with c47? just afraid it happen again like the current tube.


I've used both EK and E22 with c47/48. Zero issues.


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I've used both EK and E22 with c47/48. Zero issues.


What's C47/48?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> What's C47/48?


Bitspower multi-link adapers used with E22/EK acrylic tubing.
C47 comes with two o-rings versus one with C48.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> What's C47/48?


It's mentioned in the first post. They are the Bitspower rigid tube fittings that we used before all the other companies jumped on the bandwagon


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> Bitspower multi-link adapers used with E22/EK acrylic tubing.
> C47 comes with two o-rings versus one with C48.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's mentioned in the first post. They are the Bitspower rigid tube fittings that we used before all the other companies jumped on the bandwagon


Thanks for confirming REP+







But didn't BP make new compression fittings for acrylic?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks for confirming REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But didn't BP make new compression fittings for acrylic?


they do also for 16mm fitting


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> But didn't BP make new compression fittings for acrylic?


These also work with 10/12mm EK/E22. Screw on collar.




http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1285&products_id=39665


----------



## WiLd FyeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Thanks for confirming REP+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But didn't BP make new compression fittings for acrylic?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> they do also for 16mm fitting


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> These also work with 10/12mm EK/E22. Screw on collar.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393_1285&products_id=39665


REP+







Thanks for confirming. Okay I was a bit confused with the name "*C47/48*".


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiLd FyeR*
> 
> Okay I was a bit confused with the name "*C47/48*".


No worries!


----------



## steve1703

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BGKris*
> 
> I've used both EK and E22 with c47/48. Zero issues.


That was good info. Gonna throw away those tube.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steve1703*
> 
> That was good info. Gonna throw away those tube.



Here's a quick example of both fittings in action.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

http://www.icemodz.com/webshop/#!/~/category/id=8680716&offset=0&sort=normal

Has anyone used Icemodz 10/12mm metric tubing? Seems to be better prices in larger quantities than I have seen elsewhere.

edit: If you know of a better deal on metric acrylic, please do share.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

E22 8.95/meter at PPCS.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_413&zenid=00999b16156d0a04e69acba8729756dd


----------



## sprower

I don't recall seeing any comments here about US Plastics acrylic tube quality or shipping cost but it's about $10-15 cheaper than McMaster Carr. Actually, I couldn't even find 5/8 x 1/2 at McMaster... only 5/8 x 3/8..









So I pulled the trigger on *this*.... 30ft of 5/8 x 1/2", 6ft lengths @ $0.42 per ft. $12.60 plus $20.42 shipping.


----------



## Brian18741

Has anyone in Europe used these guys? Up to £1.50 - £2.20 per meter which seems very cheap.

http://www.clearplasticsupplies.co.uk/acrylic_tube_clear.htm


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Has anyone in Europe used these guys? Up to £1.5 - £2.20 per meter which seems very cheap.
> 
> http://www.clearplasticsupplies.co.uk/acrylic_tube_clear.htm


That is pretty cheap. Pity they only seem to ship to UK mainland.


----------



## Brian18741

Dang ... didn't notice that bit.


----------



## Raul-7

Shame my water cooling is external, I'd love to use acrylic tubing.

Problem is if I have acrylic tubing on the interior and flexible on the outside, it's going to be a pain to maintain and I'd have to be real careful to prevent leaks.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Problem is if I have acrylic tubing on the interior and flexible on the outside, it's going to be a pain to maintain and I'd have to be real careful to prevent leaks.


I don't see it being a problem. It shouldn't be any different.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> I don't see it being a problem. It shouldn't be any different.


Why? If it's external, assume I move the case around the flexible tubing will move/vibrate and causing it to disconnect from fitting. I'd have to integrate some form of quick-disconnect.


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Why? If it's external, assume I move the case around the flexible tubing will move/vibrate and causing it to disconnect from fitting. I'd have to integrate some form of quick-disconnect.


A couple of panel QDC's and pass-through fittings will do the job nicely.


----------



## lowfat

IMHO you should be using QDCs or at least bulkheads when using external loops anyways. Looks 11ty times cleaner and more professional.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMHO you should be using QDCs or at least bulkheads when using external loops anyways. Looks 11ty times cleaner and more professional.


True.

Many otherwise lovely looking builds ruined by hoses hanging out the back passed-through dirty rubber grommets


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucas Bezerra*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Why? If it's external, assume I move the case around the flexible tubing will move/vibrate and causing it to disconnect from fitting. I'd have to integrate some form of quick-disconnect.
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of panel QDC's and pass-through fittings will do the job nicely.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMHO you should be using QDCs or at least bulkheads when using external loops anyways. Looks 11ty times cleaner and more professional.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMHO you should be using QDCs or at least bulkheads when using external loops anyways. Looks 11ty times cleaner and more professional.
> 
> 
> 
> True.
> 
> Many otherwise lovely looking builds ruined by hoses hanging out the back passed-through dirty rubber grommets
Click to expand...

Absolutely agree with these guys that you can mix flexible tubing with rigid when it's the best way to implement what you need to do, if you do it properly . . . .













Darlene


----------



## Barefooter

Now that looks awesome!


----------



## Raul-7

Actually the vinyl tubing will pull down on it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> IMHO you should be using QDCs or at least bulkheads when using external loops anyways. Looks 11ty times cleaner and more professional.


I do, but it's hidden out of site.

I don't think it will work. You see my external rig is different to the one posted above. My radiator is located outside in my garden and the tubing runs all the way up to my bedroom window. The stress caused by the vinyl tubing as it's being pulled down would cause the acrylic tubing to bend or dislodge it from the QDC.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Actually the vinyl tubing will pull down on it.
> I do, but it's hidden out of site.
> 
> I don't think it will work. You see my external rig is different to the one posted above. My radiator is located outside in my garden and the tubing runs all the way up to my bedroom window. The stress caused by the vinyl tubing as it's being pulled down would cause the acrylic tubing to bend or dislodge it from the QDC.


You'd definitely need a casewall and passthrrough fitting in between the acrylic and vinyl.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> You'd definitely need a casewall and passthrrough fitting in between the acrylic and vinyl.


Absolutely right. With a passthrough fitting it would hold the 2 sides firm between the case without putting unwanted pressure on the acrylic tubing.









Now I have to rethink my loop.


----------



## Raul-7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> I don't recall seeing any comments here about US Plastics acrylic tube quality or shipping cost but it's about $10-15 cheaper than McMaster Carr. Actually, I couldn't even find 5/8 x 1/2 at McMaster... only 5/8 x 3/8..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I pulled the trigger on *this*.... 30ft of 5/8 x 1/2", 6ft lengths @ $0.42 per ft. $12.60 plus $20.42 shipping.


What fittings would work with this diameter tubing?

EDIT: NVM, I see Bitspower offers 16mm which is around 5/8".


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> What fittings would work with this diameter tubing?
> 
> EDIT: NVM, I see Bitspower offers 16mm which is around 5/8".


Bitspower's metric 16mm fittings are not going to work with imperial 5/8 tubing. You can't mix imperial and metric rigid tubing and fittings like you can usually get away with for regular tube. You'll need a 5/8 OD rigid fitting.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c703/s2230/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Rigid_Acrylic_-_Fittings-58_OD_Hardline_Fitting-Page1.html


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Bitspower's metric 16mm fittings are not going to work with imperial 5/8 tubing. You can't mix imperial and metric rigid tubing and fittings like you can usually get away with for regular tube. You'll need a 5/8 OD rigid fitting.


Sure you can mix the BP-EML 16mm fittings with 5/8" tubing. The difference is 0.125mm or 1/200" which is as thin as a sheet of paper. When the compression ring is tightened the o-rings will squeeze enough to hold it. No problem.

It's the other way around that doesn't work, 16mm tube in 5/8" fittings. Although you can sand down the ends to fit.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Sure you can mix the BP-EML 16mm fittings with 5/8" tubing. The difference is 0.125mm or 1/200" which is as thin as a sheet of paper. When the compression ring is tightened the o-rings will squeeze enough to hold it. No problem.
> 
> It's the other way around that doesn't work, 16mm tube in 5/8" fittings. Although you can sand down the ends to fit.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/320#post_20537741

Rigid fittings are designed for exact size tube. Mixing and matching is asking for trouble. Why do it when the correct size is available.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1388300/acrylic-pipebending-101/320#post_20537741
> 
> Rigid fittings are designed for exact size tube. Mixing and matching is asking for trouble. Why do it when the correct size is available.


Wermad tried with push-in fittings, the Bitspower ones are compression fittings.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Wermad tried with push-in fittings, the Bitspower ones are compression fittings.


Yep, but once a 'compression' hardline fitting is screwed down it really isn't any different to the one piece models. Take an enhanced fitting and compare it to a C47. They are the same. All the lock collar does is compress the second O-ring down to the same position as the second O-ring in the one piece models. The two piece models can even be used just like the one piece without ever unscrewing the collar.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yep, but once a 'compression' hardline fitting is screwed down it really isn't any different to the one piece models. Take an enhanced fitting and compare it to a C47. They are the same. All the lock collar does is compress the second O-ring down to the same position as the second O-ring in the one piece models. The two piece models can even be used just like the one piece without ever unscrewing the collar.


Just to be clear: you are saying the compression collar on Bitspower EML16 fittings does not exert any force on the upper o-ring when tightened? It's just for positioning?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Just to be clear: you are saying the compression collar on Bitspower EML16 fittings does not exert any force on the upper o-ring when tightened? It's just for positioning?


It exerts the same 'pressure' on the removable 0-ring as is applied to the one that is not removable. The inner diameter of the collar is the same as the inner diameter of the section that holds the inner o-ring.

So, very roughly, the cross sections can be represented like this


With o-rings that sit in the two grooves of the top one for C47's
In the enhance version all the collar is, is like the C47 has been split in two. With the collar being one half of the groove that the o-ring fits into.

If you take both o-rings out of an enhanced multi-link, screw the collar on and compare it to a C47 with its o-rings removed in both cases you will see two identical grooves. Its not so much that the o-rings are compressed as they are stopped from stretching. They are already smaller than the pipe diameter. It doesn't make any real difference if they are kept to size in the grooves and pipe forced in, or stretched around the pipe first and squeezed back down to size by the screw on collar. In the end the o-rings are the same size and the inner diameter of the fitting is the same size.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Sure you can mix the BP-EML 16mm fittings with 5/8" tubing. The difference is 0.125mm or 1/200" which is as thin as a sheet of paper. When the compression ring is tightened the o-rings will squeeze enough to hold it. No problem.
> 
> It's the other way around that doesn't work, 16mm tube in 5/8" fittings. Although you can sand down the ends to fit.


Tolerance is the key work. For example this is the monsoon 1/2" 5/8"



3 mt for 14€ but unusable with eml16

Bitspower 40 cm 7€


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It exerts the same 'pressure' on the removable 0-ring as is applied to the one that is not removable.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> Tolerance is the key work. For example this is the monsoon 1/2" 5/8"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


My bad then, I stand corrected









(comprehensively







)


----------



## Raul-7

That sucks, I hate Monsoon fittings.


----------



## Destrto

What's so different about Monsoons economy line rigid fittings than any of the other brands? The only thing the Monsoons don't have is the diamond etching.


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What's so different about Monsoons economy line rigid fittings than any of the other brands? The only thing the Monsoons don't have is the diamond etching.


The economy fittings are pretty much like their "mission critical" fittings without the glued on lock collar. A single o-ring goes around the acrylic and another butts up flush with the end of the tube.

I haven't installed mine yet but this how it appears to me... The one thing I have noticed is that the economy fittings may show a lot of the threads of the base as the top doesn't seem to screw down very far.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

^ That, and all monsoon fittings, including their economy hardlines, now have antimicrobial silver bases which is different than any other brand's fitting.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprower*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> What's so different about Monsoons economy line rigid fittings than any of the other brands? The only thing the Monsoons don't have is the diamond etching.
> 
> 
> 
> The economy fittings are pretty much like their "mission critical" fittings without the glued on lock collar. *A single o-ring goes around the acrylic and another butts up flush with the end of the tube*.
> 
> I haven't installed mine yet but this how it appears to me... The one thing I have noticed is that the economy fittings may show a lot of the threads of the base as the top doesn't seem to screw down very far.
Click to expand...

Are you sure about the one butting up with the end of the tube on the economy series . . . . .

That doesn't make any sense, really . .

There's nothing to keep the tube end, which likely isn't flat/smooth enough, without a collar anyway, compressed against such an oring.

Seems it would only use a single 0ring like the Primochills.

D.


----------



## sprower

You're probably right D. The extra o-rings Monsoon included threw me off.


----------



## Destrto

My post was actually in response to Raul saying he didn't like Monsoon fittings.

I have a full set of economy fittings in my rig currently. I like them.

The 2nd O ring, as I figured out, is just the normal one that goes between the fitting and block. It only uses one O ring to secure the tube into the fitting.


----------



## rwisdaman

Ok so I now have all parts in and ready to start my build.

Question is, with the acrylic tubing I have, how do I calculate or measure where each bend will start and end?

I used to be a pipe fitter a while back, but I always eyeballed the bends. I never could understand the formula for pipe bending, and I am sure the formula for acrylic bending is pretty much the same.

Can anyone splain me how to do it? I really don't want to waste a bunch of tubing on bad bends.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwisdaman*
> 
> Ok so I now have all parts in and ready to start my build.
> 
> Question is, with the acrylic tubing I have, how do I calculate or measure where each bend will start and end?
> 
> I used to be a pipe fitter a while back, but I always eyeballed the bends. I never could understand the formula for pipe bending, and I am sure the formula for acrylic bending is pretty much the same.
> 
> Can anyone splain me how to do it? I really don't want to waste a bunch of tubing on bad bends.


I highly recommend getting the monsoon kit (mandels, cutting, and measurement). It takes a lot of the guesswork out of the bending process. Their measurement kit's rulers allow you to attach them together to get measurements in multiple axis. This will translate to the center line of the tube. Watching the videos (I believe BNEG was nice enough to put on the front page of this thread) helps make the process easy to understand and repeatable.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> It exerts the same 'pressure' on the removable 0-ring as is applied to the one that is not removable. The inner diameter of the collar is the same as the inner diameter of the section that holds the inner o-ring.
> 
> So, very roughly, the cross sections can be represented like this
> 
> 
> With o-rings that sit in the two grooves of the top one for C47's
> In the enhance version all the collar is, is like the C47 has been split in two. With the collar being one half of the groove that the o-ring fits into.
> 
> If you take both o-rings out of an enhanced multi-link, screw the collar on and compare it to a C47 with its o-rings removed in both cases you will see two identical grooves. Its not so much that the o-rings are compressed as they are stopped from stretching. They are already smaller than the pipe diameter. It doesn't make any real difference if they are kept to size in the grooves and pipe forced in, or stretched around the pipe first and squeezed back down to size by the screw on collar. In the end the o-rings are the same size and the inner diameter of the fitting is the same size.


I'm not sure how accurate this is. With the collar screwed completely down over the 2nd o-ring, it's really difficult to push a piece of 12mm OD tube down into the fitting. I just tried it on a few of my test multilink enhance, and they all required a ton of force to push the tube in... enough that I'd worry about damaging o-rings. It's also significantly harder to pull the acrylic tube out of the fitting with the collar screwed down than it is with a C47.

Can anyone else test it out to verify it?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The second groove is slightly smaller,the profile is the same tho,the slightly smaller groove pushes the oring in to the tube when tightened

Ideally,the second oring would have a wedge profile so the tighter you tighten,the more pressure is put on the tube.

Much like this....


----------



## failwheeldrive

Thanks b, that makes sense. I couldn't see how Bitspower could make a compression type fitting that literally didn't do anything over the c47. Plus jak's diagram was a little off. There isn't a ridge on the fitting base for the second o-ring. It's just a flat surface that the o-ring sits on and gets compressed by the collar.


----------



## WiSK

Thanks for the info BNeg and FWD









But the original question was: will they hold tight enough for 5/8"?

And will they hold tight enough for that piece Juthos measured that was 15.47mm (ie 1/64" too small).


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Thanks for the info BNeg and FWD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the original question was: will they hold tight enough for 5/8"?
> 
> And will they hold tight enough for that piece Juthos measured that was 15.47mm (ie 1/64" too small).


Get a small sample and do a submerged air test.

The tolerances are so tight,I wouldnt risk it otherwise.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get a small sample and do a submerged air test.
> 
> The tolerances are so tight,I wouldnt risk it otherwise.


You were always the one for air pressure tests!

But it was @Raul-7's question. He was looking at the BP fittings and this tubing.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You were always the one for air pressure tests!
> 
> But it was @Raul-7's question. He was looking at the BP fittings and this tubing.


Air pressure test FTW!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Get a small sample and do a submerged air test.
> 
> The tolerances are so tight,I wouldnt risk it otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> You were always the one for air pressure tests!
> 
> But it was @Raul-7's question. He was looking at the BP fittings and this tubing.
Click to expand...

I know,its an old trick but so illuminating.


----------



## failwheeldrive

What psi do you guys normally leak test with? I assume you'd have to go pretty nuts with a bike pump to blow a seal, right?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> What psi do you guys normally leak test with? I assume you'd have to go pretty nuts with a bike pump to blow a seal, right?


you can check here an ocn member had the test around 10psi for blocks:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1484073/build-log-the-madhouse-chicago-blackhawks-themed-caselabs-m10-w-4930k/100_100#post_22658283


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I go 7-10psi and make sure it can hold it without dropping for at least several hours.



Much better than the ol' put paper towels down and cross your fingers.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Thanks guys, just wanted to make sure you didn't need to go up to something nuts like 5 bar or something lol. I know a lot of stuff is only guaranteed to 1.5 bar (roughly 23 psi) or so, so 10 psi sounds safe.

May have to pick up a schrader (sp?) valve and give this a go.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Thanks guys, just wanted to make sure you didn't need to go up to something nuts like 5 bar or something lol. I know a lot of stuff is only guaranteed to 1.5 bar (roughly 23 psi) or so, so 10 psi sounds safe.
> 
> May have to pick up a schrader (sp?) valve and give this a go.


the list:
McMaster Part # for the Shrader Valve: 8063K38
McMaster Part $ for the Gauge: 3846K312
PPCs Part # for the thread adapters: ADT-G14M-N14F


----------



## failwheeldrive

Thanks, I was just looking for those part #s. +rep


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Thanks b, that makes sense. I couldn't see how Bitspower could make a compression type fitting that literally didn't do anything over the c47. Plus jak's diagram was a little off. There isn't a ridge on the fitting base for the second o-ring. It's just a flat surface that the o-ring sits on and gets compressed by the collar.


Of course the diagram is not completely accurate. It was only to show the concept, not a tech drawing. The second o-ring does indeed sit on a flat surface rather than rounded like the diagram but, so is the first groove the first o-ring sits in. It was simply easier to draw it that way.

I don't believe the grooves are different sizes. I don't have gear accurate enough to show or test it though. If you completely screw down an enhance fitting with no tubing it doesn't make the o-ring any smaller, so how is it really compressing anything? The fact remains it is still only the friction of two o-rings holding the tubing in both cases.
A compression fitting for soft tubing literally compresses the tubing between the barb and collar. Hardline fittings just rely on o-rings that are smaller than the tube diameter.

Testing will show any real difference. In Martins and others testing fittings hold a surprising amount of pressure, like 30+ PSI
http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=16041833&postcount=113

I don't believe there will be any difference. Except maybe if in the testing the C47 is lubricated to get it on and the enhanced wasn't because it doesn't need it as much. Lubrication dries out over time and C47's that have been on for a while can be a pain to remove.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Of course the diagram is not completely accurate. It was only to show the concept, not a tech drawing. The second o-ring does indeed sit on a flat surface rather than rounded like the diagram but, so is the first groove the first o-ring sits in. It was simply easier to draw it that way.
> 
> I don't believe the grooves are different sizes. I don't have gear accurate enough to show or test it though. If you completely screw down an enhance fitting with no tubing it doesn't make the o-ring any smaller, so how is it really compressing anything? The fact remains it is still only the friction of two o-rings holding the tubing in both cases.
> A compression fitting for soft tubing literally compresses the tubing between the barb and collar. Hardline fittings just rely on o-rings that are smaller than the tube diameter.
> 
> Testing will show any real difference. In Martins and others testing fittings hold a surprising amount of pressure, like 30+ PSI
> http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showpost.php?p=16041833&postcount=113
> 
> I don't believe there will be any difference. Except maybe if in the testing the C47 is lubricated to get it on and the enhanced wasn't because it doesn't need it as much. Lubrication dries out over time and C47's that have been on for a while can be a pain to remove.


Then why is it that Multilink Enhance fittings hold the tubing tighter than C47s? I mean if the o-ring design is identical, they should have the same seal, right? But I have c47s and Enhanced in front of me right now, and I can tell you that you'll probably end up damaging the o-rings in the Enhance fittings if you try inserting the tubing after the collar is screwed down. About the only way I could get the tubing in was to sit the fitting flat down on a table and press the tubing inside with all my weight on it lol. That's definitely putting a ton of stress on that o-ring.

Same goes for pulling the tube out. With C47s I can pull the tube straight out with a decent tug. With Enhance fittings, I have to pull much harder while twisting the tubing to get it out.

I could see that if you don't screw the collar all the way down, they both have a similar seal... I can pretty easily pull the acrylic out or insert it into the fitting with the collar in place. That changes dramatically once the collar is screwed down all the way on the threads.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Today is the day I finally do the tubing. Due to physical limitations, using a saw to cut the acrylic is not going to be possible. Has anyone used the Dremel cutting wheel that is specific to plastic?


----------



## lowfat

Before I had the Monsoon kit I used a Dremel w/ reinforced cutting wheels. It isn't going to be anywhere near straight though. It will require a lot of filing to get it straight and smooth.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Before I had the Monsoon kit I used a Dremel w/ reinforced cutting wheels. It isn't going to be anywhere near straight though. It will require a lot of filing to get it straight and smooth.


Thanks, lowfat. I also have the larger Dremel circular saw, I may see if I can find a good cutting wheel for plastic. That would provide a straighter cut.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

A diamond rim cutoff blade in an angle grinder makes a nice straight cut. It's probably definitely more than a bit overkill but that's what I've been using mounted in a klutch angle grinder holder which helps hold the tube and the grinder straight. I already had more than one cheap angle grinder laying around when I saw the holder on sale at Northern Tool for ~$20 I set one of my grinders up just for cutting acrylic is all I use it for now.



Someone else here a while back had mentioned they were using a mini chop saw with a diamond blade to cut acrylic they got at Harbor Freight iirc with good results and I looked into that at the time but they no longer carried that little model and the larger ones cost more so I let go of the idea until I saw that holder on sale that was the first thing I thought of.

Originally I just used a cheap run-o-the-mill abrasive metal cutoff wheel in the grinder which I already had a bunch of, and that works alright. You have to go slow and it sort of melts its way through it fuzzing up the ends but you can just knock off the fuzzies with a fingertip and it leaves a nice straight edge, every bit as straight or easy to work with as any cut I made with a mini hack saw, and you can then clean it up nice with a inside/outside reamer if you are going to be using push-fit fittings.

Eventually I shelled out another ~$10 or so for the diamond rim blade and it makes a bit cleaner cut, though still does produce some of the fuzzies that can just be knocked off. It also works rather well to shave just a millimeter or so off of the end of a tube at a time by holding the grinder in the down position with it off and sliding the end of the tube right up next to / lightly touching the blade and raising the grinder so that it lightly scrapes past the tube on the way up before turning it on and making a cut on just the very edge (most anyone who has ever cut trim with a compound miter saw would be familiar with this technique for cutting a piece just a tad long and creeping up on the right length). Doing that saves a lot of time shortening the tube just a tad that I otherwise used to have to accomplish by sanding it down to size.


----------



## Jakusonfire

This what I use
http://www.cutting-mats.net/xacto-knives-2756.html

and a fine tooth hacksaw blade


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> This what I use
> http://www.cutting-mats.net/xacto-knives-2756.html
> 
> and a fine tooth hacksaw blade


And another handy gadget for the box.

Not that I would use it for acrylic,it will be handy for Alu extrusion cutting.


----------



## failwheeldrive

Yeah, I use a miter box as well. Easy to get extremely clean cuts with minimal deburring afterwards.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A diamond rim cutoff blade in an angle grinder makes a nice straight cut. It's probably definitely more than a bit overkill but that's what I've been using mounted in a klutch angle grinder holder which helps hold the tube and the grinder straight. I already had more than one cheap angle grinder laying around when I saw the holder on sale at Northern Tool for ~$20 I set one of my grinders up just for cutting acrylic is all I use it for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Someone else here a while back had mentioned they were using a mini chop saw with a diamond blade to cut acrylic they got at Harbor Freight iirc with good results and I looked into that at the time but they no longer carried that little model and the larger ones cost more so I let go of the idea until I saw that holder on sale that was the first thing I thought of.
> 
> Originally I just used a cheap run-o-the-mill abrasive metal cutoff wheel in the grinder which I already had a bunch of, and that works alright. You have to go slow and it sort of melts its way through it fuzzing up the ends but you can just knock off the fuzzies with a fingertip and it leaves a nice straight edge, every bit as straight or easy to work with as any cut I made with a mini hack saw, and you can then clean it up nice with a inside/outside reamer if you are going to be using push-fit fittings.
> 
> Eventually I shelled out another ~$10 or so for the diamond rim blade and it makes a bit cleaner cut, though still does produce some of the fuzzies that can just be knocked off. It also works rather well to shave just a millimeter or so off of the end of a tube at a time by holding the grinder in the down position with it off and sliding the end of the tube right up next to / lightly touching the blade and raising the grinder so that it lightly scrapes past the tube on the way up before turning it on and making a cut on just the very edge (most anyone who has ever cut trim with a compound miter saw would be familiar with this technique for cutting a piece just a tad long and creeping up on the right length). Doing that saves a lot of time shortening the tube just a tad that I otherwise used to have to accomplish by sanding it down to size.


Lol, I like the way this guy solves problems.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

What has been the "favorite" fitting/tubing for you guys? Any video for size reference?
I was looking at some of the larger, seems primochill only offers one size on frozencpu/performancepcs


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Bitspower and E22 tube all day long.


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower and E22 tube all day long.


Price of bitspower fittings always kills me








I'll check them out when I get back


----------



## Jakusonfire

The EK fittings work just as well, but they are not quite as pretty as the BP.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Bitspower and E22 tube all day long.


This is my vote too


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *INCREDIBLEHULK*
> 
> Price of bitspower fittings always kills me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll check them out when I get back


Agree with you about the price of BP fittings. I just can't ever justify paying that much when there are options that work as well at half the price.


----------



## grim.

I put a few pictures up in the watercooling thread and the case thread for my Phanteks Enthoo Pro. My first build acrylic tubing and I went with the primochill tubing and primochill revolver fittings. I haven't anything to compare them to, but I think they're brilliant. Very easy to use, and they all sealed up perfectly with no leaks at all. Really impressed with them.

I also splashed out and bought one of the monsoon bending kits, they come with mandrels, heat gun, gloves and a hacksaw. Absolutely brilliant kit, and I'd recommend it to anyone who wants to do an acrylic build, it was an extra £50 on top but it really made building this loop a breeze! I'm now totally hooked on acrylic tubing, and I'm a little sad that I've finished my loop. I want to build another one!

I'll put the same pictures up in here in case anyone wants to see what I made and don't look in those other two threads. Phanteks Enthoo Pro case, just a cpu loop with two radiators, D5 pump and separate reservoir. I wanted to do something a little challenging for my first loop but also something that looked as clean as possible.

Firstly, the magical kit from Monsoon,

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/secretweapons_zps53bc5a76.jpg.html

And a couple of low quality shots of my build just using my phone because I only finished it late last night and haven't got a decent camera around to take some good pics yet!

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/fullbuild_zps55e5385f.jpg.html
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Pipework_zps19254111.jpg.html
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/scaled_zps03a96d0d.jpg.html
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot_zps288ab06d.jpg.html

Hopefully will be changing the loop to have a waterblock on my gpu and another radiator in the front, but I've blown all my money on this one as it is!


----------



## Lucas Bezerra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> I put a few pictures up in the watercooling thread and the case thread for my Phanteks Enthoo Pro. My first build acrylic tubing and I went with the primochill tubing and primochill revolver fittings. I haven't anything to compare them to, but I think they're brilliant. Very easy to use, and they all sealed up perfectly with no leaks at all. Really impressed with them.
> 
> I also splashed out and bought one of the monsoon bending kits, they come with mandrels, heat gun, gloves and a hacksaw. Absolutely brilliant kit, and I'd recommend it to anyone who wants to do an acrylic build, it was an extra £50 on top but it really made building this loop a breeze! I'm now totally hooked on acrylic tubing, and I'm a little sad that I've finished my loop. I want to build another one!
> 
> I'll put the same pictures up in here in case anyone wants to see what I made and don't look in those other two threads. Phanteks Enthoo Pro case, just a cpu loop with two radiators, D5 pump and separate reservoir. I wanted to do something a little challenging for my first loop but also something that looked as clean as possible.
> 
> Firstly, the magical kit from Monsoon,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/secretweapons_zps53bc5a76.jpg.html
> 
> And a couple of low quality shots of my build just using my phone because I only finished it late last night and haven't got a decent camera around to take some good pics yet!
> 
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/fullbuild_zps55e5385f.jpg.html
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Pipework_zps19254111.jpg.html
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/scaled_zps03a96d0d.jpg.html
> http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/moneyshot_zps288ab06d.jpg.html
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully will be changing the loop to have a waterblock on my gpu and another radiator in the front, but I've blown all my money on this one as it is!


Very nice looking bends


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You have a nice symmetry going on there.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Looks really good @grim. !
One of the best looking acrylic builds I have seen for a long time. Perfect bends all around








I see you havent chosen the shortest / cleanest rout, but you still made it look brilliant! good choice.
No GPU cooling planed?







Not that it needs it.. Lightning has awesome "standard" cooling.. but just to bring noise down a tad and for the "challenge".

Im guessing the side panel has window? does it cover up the soft tube drain? PIC!









Nice work! +rep


----------



## grim.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaMbi2004*
> 
> Looks really good @grim. !
> One of the best looking acrylic builds I have seen for a long time. Perfect bends all around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see you havent chosen the shortest / cleanest rout, but you still made it look brilliant! good choice.
> No GPU cooling planed?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not that it needs it.. Lightning has awesome "standard" cooling.. but just to bring noise down a tad and for the "challenge".
> 
> Im guessing the side panel has window? does it cover up the soft tube drain? PIC!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work! +rep


It does have a window and it covers the drain tube wonderfully, totally unplanned but as I offered up the side I was pleasantly surprised. I'm going to get some better pics this weekend with a better camera than my phone can offer!

Water cooled gpu is planned but I only just got the lightning and as you say the stock cooler is incredible, and it's virtually silent even when stress testing. I'm also thinking I won't get as nice a looking build going on when the card is water cooled too. But I'm looking forward to the challenge!


----------



## Raul-7

Does that kit from Monsoon make anyone, even a dunce like myself, get perfect bends?


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Does that kit from Monsoon make anyone, even a dunce like myself, get perfect bends?


yes, but it takes practice









Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grim.*
> 
> It does have a window and it covers the drain tube wonderfully, totally unplanned but as I offered up the side I was pleasantly surprised. I'm going to get some better pics this weekend with a better camera than my phone can offer!
> 
> Water cooled gpu is planned but I only just got the lightning and as you say the stock cooler is incredible, and it's virtually silent even when stress testing. I'm also thinking I won't get as nice a looking build going on when the card is water cooled too. But I'm looking forward to the challenge!


Im sure you will make it look good







Also, the fans are new, and will probably get louder over time (not mend to make you feel bad.. but fans usually do that, especially smaller fast spinning ones like GPU fans)

You have been a member for over 3 years now.. I know you dont write often, but do you mind putting up your rig in your signature?
How to put your Rig in your Sig
Helps ppl to enjoy your work even more


----------



## grim.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Does that kit from Monsoon make anyone, even a dunce like myself, get perfect bends?


With a little practice, it's just a case of marking it all out accurately and making sure you heat the tubing just right and don't rush yourself. You have to be careful with the monsoon kit not to leave marks from the mandrels on the tube itself. I only had to throw one tube on that whole build though, it's definitely worth using the kit if you can.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raul-7*
> 
> Does that kit from Monsoon make anyone, even a dunce like myself, get perfect bends?


It takes a lot of practice to figure out. But definitely worth it.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> It takes a lot of practice to figure out. But definitely worth it.


Agreed! definitely worth it!

I probably posted this way back.. but here are a few pics of my rig. My first water cooling, and obviously also my first acrylic








I didnt spring for the kit, but had one of my friends CNC me a mandrel and used some lines on a piece of paper to get semi perfect 90 degrees.



Started up with blue tubing since I did my case / water cooling with my old system to have it ready for my new hardware of witch I did not know the color scheme


Later changed to black tubing witch looked better imo.


But quickly realiced that I wanted to try acrylics















Only 4 bends in the loop, but could not justify making a more complicated run since this just looked so clean (imo)

As some of you may notice.. this is old pictures.. but nothing new has happened lately







no money to fond my plans.. but I recently got a job and the money is slowly coming back








Next project will probably be sleeving of cables and maybe a 360 in the front to replace the 240 (3x360 currently in the "pedestal"), so I will need to do some re routing,







gives me a reason to work with acrylics again ^^


----------



## mrinfinit3

Looks great bud!








Nice choice going w/ white lighting.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrinfinit3*
> 
> Looks great bud!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice choice going w/ white lighting.


Thanks.
Actually it is an RGB kit with ~15 different colors and some fade/strobe effects etc.. but I mainly got it for the bright white








Still fun to use some of the other colors.. some of them makes all the red in my rig go dark / almost black and others makes it pop out extremely bright


----------



## INCREDIBLEHULK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyphon*
> 
> This is my vote too


Know someone with larger tubing in their build?


----------



## bfedorov11

Totally jelly of your bends grim. Here is a nice comparison of when you use hand bends vs your sexy accurately measured bends.

I bought that primochill bending tool and it really sucks. I only used it to make my 90s and there is no way to know if its actually 90 degrees. Its a pretty useless tool.

I ordered most of my setup back in march lol. These vmodded 780 TIs are crying collecting dust. Pretty sure I am committing some gamer/nerd crime. I wanted to order the monsoon kit but really don't feel like waiting for it. I probably don't have the time to make purdy bends like those anyway.

Anyway, I just wanted to show my current stage. The hand bends didn't turn out that ugly. I am going to air pressure test tomorrow. Might rebend a couple if I really want to.





It was really fun bending that top one to go back to the pump.. but I got it in one shot







Not much room under that rad.

I am using the primochill fittings. Does anyone know if it is really going to make a difference if the acrylic is flush against the fitting inside? It seals with the o-ring so I would think it wouldn't make much of a difference. I was thinking about taking the ends to my 5" sander.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> Totally jelly of your bends grim. Here is a nice comparison of when you use hand bends vs your sexy accurately measured bends.
> 
> *I bought that primochill bending tool and it really sucks. I only used it to make my 90s and there is no way to know if its actually 90 degrees. Its a pretty useless tool.*
> 
> I ordered most of my setup back in march lol. These vmodded 780 TIs are crying collecting dust. Pretty sure I am committing some gamer/nerd crime. I wanted to order the monsoon kit but really don't feel like waiting for it. I probably don't have the time to make purdy bends like those anyway.
> 
> Anyway, I just wanted to show my current stage. The hand bends didn't turn out that ugly. I am going to air pressure test tomorrow. Might rebend a couple if I really want to.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was really fun bending that top one to go back to the pump.. but I got it in one shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not much room under that rad.
> 
> I am using the primochill fittings. Does anyone know if it is really going to make a difference if the acrylic is flush against the fitting inside? It seals with the o-ring so I would think it wouldn't make much of a difference. I was thinking about taking the ends to my 5" sander.


Glad to hear from some one that has actually tried it. I think your experience is what a lot of us speculated on back when it came out. I think they had some decent ideas with it, but poor execution.


----------



## grim.

Just a couple more pics of the comp I built last week taken with my friends camera. Slightly better than my phone pics but the lighting is still terrible.

http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy4_zps04fea725.jpg.html
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/tommy1_zpse1ed8171.jpg.html
http://s16.photobucket.com/user/grimeh/media/Tommy3_zps3c8f77fc.jpg.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I luv your bends. Now that lightning is looking awful thirsty.


----------



## grim.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I luv your bends. Now that lightning is looking awful thirsty.


I know, but my bank account is looking awful empty too







it is planned for the future, seems a shame to take off that gorgeous cooler though.


----------



## rwisdaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Nice guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to add a tip. After bending, fitting and cutting to size, you can strengthen the acrylic with a process called annealing. Very simple. Switch your oven to 80C (175F), switch *off* fan-assisted. This is just below softening temperature. Put a sheet of *grease proof paper* on a flat baking tray and cook your pipe for 2 hours. Then switch off oven but don't open it yet; let it cool down naturally. This allows the acrylic to rearrange any microscopic stress fractures. It's especially important for the ends of the pipe which you are about to force into the Bitspower C47 fittings.


Does it have to be grease proof or wax paper? All I have here is aluminum foil.....would that work?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwisdaman*
> 
> Does it have to be grease proof or wax paper? All I have here is aluminum foil.....would that work?


I've not tried aluminium foil, but I'd guess it would stick.

In the meantime, I've started using flexible Teflon sheets.

And also clean my oven beforehand, after a nasty effect I got with white acrylic paint which got little black dots all over it.


----------



## bfedorov11

How forgiving are primochill compression fittings when bends are not perfect?

So I am not crazy about my hand bends (see up a few posts). This case just isn't big enough for what I have in it, so I think I made some of these bends way to difficult and they do not sit perfectly flush to the bottom of the fitting. Some are difficult to seat and tighten down. I know that o-ring is what makes the seal against the tube, but I am really worried about the long term reliability. I can just see those 780 ti's sitting on my desk as paperweights.

I tried air pressure testing. I filled to 7 psi and it dropped slowly over 24 hours to around 5 psi. 5 psi is still a lot of considering a water loop is barely under any pressure correct? There's no way I can find a leak that small. Should I bail and go back to flex? I just don't have the time to sit down and make prefect bends, if its even possible to do so with my layout.


----------



## GaMbi2004

I would suggest redoing the pipes.. finding a better rout where you can get straight bends preferably 90 degrees.
But since you dont have the time, yea... probably go with flex tubes..

Not to be rude, but your seetup just dont look that good, and flex tube would probably look better
At least untill you find the time to make perfect bendss


----------



## mrinfinit3

Agreed with the above 100%
It's not the fact that it's a smaller case at all; you've got to re-do it. Planning out your runs before bending is a must. Take a pic of your rig without the tubing installed and draw out your runs using Google Sketch-up or even printing it out and using a sharpie would go a long way towards figuring out your route.
"Good" 90*'s can be done be hand if your not willing to make/buy a mandrel kit; but it takes time.
Acrylic isn't for everybody, especially those who say they "don't have the time". If your in a rush or don't trust your workmanship, vinyl/soft tubing is a great option. In your particular build some nice 1/2" *black* tubing would work out nicely.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> How forgiving are primochill compression fittings when bends are not perfect?
> 
> So I am not crazy about my hand bends (see up a few posts). This case just isn't big enough for what I have in it, so I think I made some of these bends way to difficult and they do not sit perfectly flush to the bottom of the fitting. Some are difficult to seat and tighten down. I know that o-ring is what makes the seal against the tube, but I am really worried about the long term reliability. I can just see those 780 ti's sitting on my desk as paperweights.
> 
> I tried air pressure testing. I filled to 7 psi and it dropped slowly over 24 hours to around 5 psi. 5 psi is still a lot of considering a water loop is barely under any pressure correct? There's no way I can find a leak that small. Should I bail and go back to flex? I just don't have the time to sit down and make prefect bends, if its even possible to do so with my layout.


To find a leak with air is simple.
Use a Qtip and bubble solution from a kiddy toy bubble maker or dish soap. Rub the solution around suspect fittings while under pressure,any leaks will blow bubbles.
Practice makes perfect,however,if you don't trust your work then perhaps look at traditional methods until your confidence improves.


----------



## cyphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> To find a leak with air is simple.
> Use a Qtip and bubble solution from a kiddy toy bubble maker or dish soap. Rub the solution around suspect fittings while under pressure,any leaks will blow bubbles.
> Practice makes perfect,however,if you don't trust your work then perhaps look at traditional methods until your confidence improves.


This is definitely the best method.

Here is what a leak can look like:









I had cleaned the block and apparently the threads got ripped out and the screws didn't bolt the plate down enough


----------



## bfedorov11

Thanks for the advice. I agree, it doesn't look very good. The white makes it stand out too much. I did order a bunch of bards, a few 90s, and flex tubing.

I would love to try again but I just don't have the time. I think I made some of them too short. If I try again I might use flex for the two that go back to the pump since they are very difficult and re-try the easier bends. I can barely fit my finger under the rad up top. I will probably buy a 900d in the near future too.

Its killing me seeing this stuff go to waste. I just want to get it up and running so I can try and fry it with lots of juice







Once I swap, I may list my primochill fittings on the wts thread.


----------



## MrBlunt




----------



## DreadyDK

Hey guys!

No bends tho but its my first build with acrylic, so I thought I'd share anyhow. Got alot of tips on fittings size ect reading this thread, so here it is...


----------



## MrBlunt

very nice!


----------



## outlaw8505

After posting in the wrong thread, here i am.

I am looking at replacing my current flex tubing and fittings for acrylic. I would have left it as is but either I did something very wrong or I got a bad batch of rotary 90's. I either now have to chance ordering new 90's or replace for hard line.

Order List
1. 2x Monsoon 1/2" OD Hardline Tube - 1x 30" Single - White (ATH-3812-1-WH)
2. 2x Monsoon Free Center Hardline Fitting - 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD - Single Matte Black (FCH-3812-1-MB)
3. 1x Monsoon Free Center Hardline Fitting - 3/8"ID x 1/2"OD - Modders 6 Pack Matte Black (FCH-3812-6-MB)
4. 1x Monsoon Hardline UV Cure Adhesive - 8mL (HUVCA-8ML)

Question/s
1. Performance wise, I know it won't matter. My loop is overkill for what I'm running BUT asthetically, would the 5/8 OD look better than 1/2 OD in a tight case like the Node 304?
2. If 5/8 OD is an option, what is the tightest radius I can get? I have 1 spot where it come out of the graphics card and needs to make a 180 to drop below the radiator before making another 90 to get to the CPU.

How it was suppose to be-
(without rad)
https://flic.kr/p/m4zhuoIMG_20140307_121222_166 by outlaw8505,

(with rad)
https://flic.kr/p/m4xLFBIMG_20140307_155328_151 by outlaw8505,

The mess it is now-
https://flic.kr/p/m4wxpZIMG_20140313_202647_251 by outlaw8505,

If I can get the 5/8" to fit, I think it would look pretty sweet with all the fat pipe in there BUT I don't want to waste the money either if it will be too difficult/risky to make the bend/s.

Thanks in advance,
Outlaw


----------



## cyphon

Not trying to be mean but you will need to rethink your loop design if going hardline. You definitely will want the shortest and least complex runs you can manage.

I'd recommend buying some cheap tube and a silicon bending cord and see how you like the different diameters and how it'll fit in your case


----------



## outlaw8505

Thanks.

Where the tubing comes out of the graphics block is the only place I think I will have issues with bends which is why I was trying to do the 180. I know it's not less complex, but it isn't as hard as a turn. It would add more 90's though. It may come down to getting some 90's to use for the build to make the turn.

Something like=


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Heat gun specifics-any certain minimum wattage needed? I see too many for sale and some have either dual temp or some are what seem to be a standard wattage while others (without dual temp) are a much higher wattage.

How many watts is your gun? What temps does it throw out?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Any heat gun will do,low wattage units takes only as few seconds longer to get the tube to work temps.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Any heat gun will do,low wattage units takes only as few seconds longer to get the tube to work temps.


This, rep+

And if it is too hot, just hold your tube higher









This information should be tagged on the first post, because I had a lot of questions concerning the wattage of the heater


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> This, rep+
> 
> And if it is too hot, just hold your tube higher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This information should be tagged on the first post, because I had a lot of questions concerning the wattage of the heater


Past experience with acrylic (not tubing) has shown that too high of heat can certainly heat up the acrylic too fast and cause imperfections or microscopic cracks. In other words, stay from industrial/commercial use heat guns.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Past experience with acrylic (not tubing) has shown that too high of heat can certainly heat up the acrylic too fast and cause imperfections or microscopic cracks. In other words, stay from industrial/commercial use heat guns.


Also pictured this problem








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip Snap
> 
> 
> 
> Acrylic bending can seems to be a little bit complicated for some people. I've always loved acrylic tubing, and I tried to put them in my first rig, the hackintosh. It was no pro bending and definitely not good looking tubing, but I managed to have no leaks in it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I bought a lot of acrylic tubes in a nearby and small company, to make intentionally mistakes (and some unsuspected ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). I ordered them to have the same specification as the EKWB EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 500mm (mine are a bit longer, 750mm).
> 
> 
> 
> Voilà my stuff I use for the bending:
> 
> A hot air gun with 2 speed settings (1500W), a silicone cord with a diameter of 11.9 mm (personal order in a small company in Switzerland), a small hacksaw, my personal bending tool (ask me for the SolidWorks blueprint/plan in PM), a water-sprayer (with distilled water), some sandpaper (and a Dremel, really faster than sandpaper), and a bucket of distilled water
> 
> My bending are made like this:
> 
> - Heat the tube with the silicon cord inside for about 2-3 minutes (use only distilled water to avoid residues on the tube)
> - Bend it to the desired angle
> - Spray it with the water spray (so the tube stay the angle you want)
> - Cool it in some distilled water (warning, it does add a lot of internal stress in the tube if the water is too cold)
> - To get rid of the stress in the tube, cook your tubes at 90°C in your oven (temperature depend on your acrylic)
> - Chamfer your tubes at 45° and 0.5-1mm to avoid damaging the gasket (O-ring) in the fittings (for EKWB stuff)
> 
> Here is some small advices:
> 
> - Use always more tube than necessary (yeah, you can always cut it if it's too much, but when it's too small, you can't add more tube)
> - Heat your tube really slowly and not too close of the heatgun (it makes bubbles on the tubes, and you really don't want that, because it looks awful)
> - Alway heat about 4-6 cm of tubes (to avoid unwanted stress in the tubes)
> - When you bend it, bend it slowly (again, to avoid stress in the tubes, but also to let the tube stretch uniformly on the external side of the bend, and also to avoid "bead on the internal side of the bend.
> - Acrylic is like fiberglass, it carry the light really easily, think of it for amazing effects in your rigs!
> 
> Here are some pictures:
> 
> If you heat your tubes too quickly, here it what happens. BUUUUUBBBBLLES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't trust what you can't see? Stress is there, always there... And when you put your tubes in your rig and apply a little pressure, *CRAAAAACK!!!!*
> Here are some proof: (to obtain such stress, I put a lot of water at -12°C (achieved with salts on water) on it to cool it, instead of the little waterspray at 25°C)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And when you apply a little more tension:
> 
> 
> 
> Demonstrating the light effect you can obtain with light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chamfer your tubes to avoid gasket damaging! With EKWB stuff, don't know the other very well
> 
> 
> 
> Workplace:
> 
> 
> Bending with my own designed tool: (I can give you the blueprint of it, just PM me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "Apply cold water on the burned area"
> 
> 
> Cat goes ALWAYS in the way... Really too curious
> 
> 
> *VOILÀ*
> 
> It's all I had to say...
> 
> I really hope it can help everyone!!!
> 
> PS: the PC you can see on some pictures is Project GAMMA, the build I'm currently building, almost finished.


----------



## gre0481

I'm glad I found this post. I just discovered hard acryllic tubing the other day. Before that the only hard tubing I had seen was an all copper build.

Thanks man!


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Also pictured this problem


Did you camfer that end of acrylic you showed in the picture or is that and EK tube that came that way? If you did camfer that yourself, what tools did you use to get such a clean bevelled edge? It looks great!


----------



## defiler2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Did you camfer that end of acrylic you showed in the picture or is that and EK tube that came that way? If you did camfer that yourself, what tools did you use to get such a clean bevelled edge? It looks great!


That is done with a tool like this


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Did you camfer that end of acrylic you showed in the picture or is that and EK tube that came that way? If you did camfer that yourself, what tools did you use to get such a clean bevelled edge? It looks great!


Just used sandpaper and a lot of practice


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *defiler2k*
> 
> That is done with a tool like this


I do have that camfer, my ends just don't look that nice. I think I need to sand more is all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Just used sandpaper and a lot of practice


Is that end in the picture one that you sanded, if so that is really nice work. I mainly use a camfer and sand very little to just smooth out the ends. I want ends like that next time though!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *QAKE*
> 
> Also pictured this problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you camfer that end of acrylic you showed in the picture or is that and EK tube that came that way? If you did camfer that yourself, what tools did you use to get such a clean bevelled edge? It looks great!
Click to expand...



It doesnt come much easier.....


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> It doesnt come much easier.....


You get a nice edge with only the file? No sanding no camfer?


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> You get a nice edge with only the file? No sanding no camfer?


You can also use a Dremel, works as fine too


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> It doesnt come much easier.....
> 
> 
> 
> You get a nice edge with only the file? No sanding no camfer?
Click to expand...

I dont sand but I chamfer the tube with the file. One of those reamers does the job as well tho.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I dont sand but I chamfer the tube with the file. One of those reamers does the job as well tho.


Thanks B, I used reamer and sand paper for my last build and did have one problem. I had one tear in an o-ring



The rest of my build was great, but I'll try the file next time and see if I can get nicer bevelled edges.



I want to change a few things in my build, and I'm thinking about doing one more build in an S5.


----------



## ccRicers

Okay, so this question isn't about bending but about prepping your tubes for it.

When I deburr the ends of the tube, should the end always bevel towards the inner diameter of the tube, or are there some cases where you need to deburr for an outwards bevel?


----------



## failwheeldrive

It should always be beveled on the outer diameter as far as I know. The ID needs to be cleaned up, but not actually chamfered down


----------



## ccRicers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> It should always be beveled on the outer diameter as far as I know. The ID needs to be cleaned up, but not actually chamfered down


Okay thanks


----------



## opt33

Has anyone tried polycarbonate tubing or just acrylic/PETG so far? looks like most not having an issue with acrylic cracking, though 1 or 2 did, but wondering if poly tubing works with fittings and how it bends. may be the guinea pig if no one has tried it, though I wont be building until new gpu comes out in october/nov.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> Has anyone tried polycarbonate tubing or just acrylic/PETG so far? looks like most not having an issue with acrylic cracking, though 1 or 2 did, but wondering if poly tubing works with fittings and how it bends. may be the guinea pig if no one has tried it, though I wont be building until new gpu comes out in october/nov.


Interesting. I was just looking for alternatives to acrylic. My company manufactured a bunch of cheap little electronics, toys, and other crap in China and I remember one time when I was visiting a factory we used , there was a worker there bending this plastic tubing and it would just retain its shape. It was for some type of water pumping device. I wasnt too interested it at the time, I was only asking what the guy was doing because I was under the impression that they only made our stuff there...or at least during the day shift. But it was close to the size, it was a rigid looking tubing, and it was being bent by hand without heat and it would just stay.

I think I will order some of this tubing next week and play around with it. Im just about to do an acrylic tubing project which is also going to start next week. Mind as well play around with it at the same time. If you end up ordering some send me a PM and we can exchange notes on how the tubing performs, problems we run into, etc

*NOTE:* If I remember polycarbonate correctly, its pretty flimsy. This should be the same stuff that long fluorescent bulbs come packaged in. However, depending in the thickness it may be applicable. And if someone is not going to bend and just make their turns with angled fittings, then this may work just fine. Its just the bending that is the biggest question right now


----------



## friskiest

Anyone gotten out of this pickle before?


----------



## Jakusonfire

I was able to get the fragments out with a small pair of needle nose pliers without marking up the fitting. If it stays stuck and you can't get any grip on it then I would use an engraving head on a dremel or similar and cut a slots in the acrylic til it just falls apart.
A small flat blade screw driver and a hammer might break it up too.


----------



## inlandchris

take out the "O" ring and soak the fitting in acid that is friendly to that metal


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Anyone gotten out of this pickle before?


Small flat blade screwdriver from the other side thru the bore of the fitting.


----------



## Hefner

Holy moly. Got frustrated whilst assembling your loop?


----------



## friskiest

Thanks guys,

The approach i originally took was with a small flat screwdriver through the bore, but it just won't budge.

This happened about eight months ago, I honestly can't remember how though!

I will try with the engraving bit on a dremel - carefully.


----------



## Dr m4rc3l

Hi. I just started my First WC build and decided to go the bending way.
But when it comes to non-perpendicular angles it gives me a hard time. Do you guys have a hint how to measure and plan those pipes...
Here is what I'm talking about:

btw I'm talking about the left tube 
It took a long time with try and error and shorten both end millimeter by millimeter until it fit...


----------



## naved777

How to drain rigid acrylic based loop ? since its fragile rather than flexible


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naved777*
> 
> How to drain rigid acrylic based loop ? since its fragile rather than flexible


T fitting with a drain valve at the lowest point in the loop. Or you could run flexible tube from an unseen area, compression fitting at the loose end > female/female fitting > end cap.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *naved777*
> 
> How to drain rigid acrylic based loop ? since its fragile rather than flexible


I have found the drain in my radiator to be the best way to fill and drain. The only problem is I need to flip the case upside down to get to it.


----------



## somebadlemonade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friskiest*
> 
> Thanks guys,
> 
> The approach i originally took was with a small flat screwdriver through the bore, but it just won't budge.
> 
> This happened about eight months ago, I honestly can't remember how though!
> 
> I will try with the engraving bit on a dremel - carefully.


i'd try a seal puller while twisting the fitting, put tape over the outside of the fitting so you don't scratch it

if you do go the dremel route, put it in a vise so it doesn't move on you


----------



## Menzies

My second attempt at pipe bending, last time I tried people had mentioned using cooking oil which now appears to be a big no no. Should I start over? Some of these bends were a real pain....


----------



## bond32

Subb'ed here too... Looking to make my move this weekend. Have the Primochill PEGR stuff coming

I'm actually just initially using the Acrylic to construct a coupling between 2 MCP50x pumps... If it goes well I will go for more but I will eventually use copper.

Has anyone used a pipe bender to make the bends? Using heat of course... Seems like it would work fine if you put wax paper or something on the pipe bender itself first.


----------



## QAKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Subb'ed here too... Looking to make my move this weekend. Have the Primochill PEGR stuff coming
> 
> I'm actually just initially using the Acrylic to construct a coupling between 2 MCP50x pumps... If it goes well I will go for more but I will eventually use copper.
> 
> Has anyone used a pipe bender to make the bends? Using heat of course... Seems like it would work fine if you put wax paper or something on the pipe bender itself first.


I made my own bend tool for acrylic

See GAMMA in my signature for more info

PM me if you want the blueprint of it


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Menzies*
> 
> My second attempt at pipe bending, last time I tried people had mentioned using cooking oil which now appears to be a big no no. Should I start over? Some of these bends were a real pain....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics


Really nice effort. It looks like you are doing your bends freehand, so did I. For the silicon insert for the tubes I used a mild dishwashing soap and water mix. It is way easier to rinse off. To get your bends a little more uniform try to transfer your measurements and bends to a flat surface and use it as a guide. I also used a dry eraser marker on my tubes. Remember thought that the tube will be hot and soft so don't press it down on your guide.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Subb'ed here too... Looking to make my move this weekend. Have the Primochill PEGR stuff coming
> 
> I'm actually just initially using the Acrylic to construct a coupling between 2 MCP50x pumps... If it goes well I will go for more but I will eventually use copper.
> 
> Has anyone used a pipe bender to make the bends? Using heat of course... Seems like it would work fine if you put wax paper or something on the pipe bender itself first.


Not advised,you dont want any tooling marks on the tube,freehand mandrels are best all round.


----------



## Menzies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> Really nice effort. It looks like you are doing your bends freehand, so did I. For the silicon insert for the tubes I used a mild dishwashing soap and water mix. It is way easier to rinse off. To get your bends a little more uniform try to transfer your measurements and bends to a flat surface and use it as a guide. I also used a dry eraser marker on my tubes. Remember thought that the tube will be hot and soft so don't press it down on your guide.


Thanks for the advice, I shall give soapy water a shot, I only have the rad to res and res to GPU to go so hopefully it is painless. Then I can work on perfecting some of the other bends that I'm not 100% happy with.

I have a ghetto bending board setup which consists of an MDF board with a plastic door stop glued to it with some angles drawn onto the board, but I mostly eyeball it. I plan on slightly heating the tube from the top rad to the front rad to try flatten out the long run as it looks like it sags a little bit. It isn't anywhere near as bad as what it looks in the photo though. It was a pain to do though since the radiator outlets don't line up ...


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreadManD*
> 
> Really nice effort. It looks like you are doing your bends freehand, so did I. For the silicon insert for the tubes I used a mild dishwashing soap and water mix. It is way easier to rinse off. To get your bends a little more uniform try to transfer your measurements and bends to a flat surface and use it as a guide. I also used a dry eraser marker on my tubes. Remember thought that the tube will be hot and soft so don't press it down on your guide.


I free handed all mine as well. Dish soap too







No measurements, no templates. Although I think i used a socket for my uniform radius bends. I was able to stretch and shrink the pipe while hot to fit if I made a pipe to long or short. Running nearly a year now and no problems! Just as clear as 'day 1'.

For you guys buying the deburring tool. I just used a foam sanding block. I put the pipe end on the block and twisted the pipe back and forth between my palms like i was trying to start a fire. This worked perfectly for me.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Not advised,you dont want any tooling marks on the tube,freehand mandrels are best all round.


Yeah but I would like to try but using some sort of protector on the tool itself. Will start this weekend, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I could only see it being more difficult. Properly heated acrylic bends so easily that using any tool is likely just going to increase the chances of marking and flattening.


----------



## shremi

Hi guys i am really interested in going into the acrylic route i have seen a lot of the videos and investigated myself aswell .... Well as far as i can think but i still have some questions and i hope you guys can help me out .....

First of all i am using right now plastic tubing 1/2 X 3/4 and i am used to the aesthetics of this dimension but i think need something that looks a bit thicker than the 1/2 OD rigid which seems to be the most popular option around here since i am using a primo case which is quite huge

1.- So for my options i believe i only have the monsoon 5/8 ..... But i read a couple of pages back that the compression fittings doesn't seem to be doing the job right is this true ???? if so i will need to go with the hardline but since i am noob when it comes to acrylic i just think the less hoops i have to jump through will be better .....

2.- The other option would be to go the bitspower 160mm tube along with the EML16 Series of compression fittings which i think it would be the best option since they seem to do the job of keeping the tube tight ??? .... Also i have a LOT and i mean A LOT of angles and extenders from bitspower which i think i can reuse them to extend and use on the tigh 90 angles right ????? I am afraid since it isn't so popular some people might have problems with this size....

3 I am planning on using the monsoon complete kit to make the measurements and make the cuts even with the heatgun i just dont know if i go with the bitspower route it wont work as well since the tube is a tad wider.... so that will mess up the bends and the tracing since i saw the videos and those tools seem pretty neat and they always go the middle of the tube

I am sorry for all of the questions and please bare with me since i am ordering from abroad i need to make sure i get everything right ....

One more thing i am planing ordering 4 meters for my build will this be enough ??????

Thanks and any feedback would be appreciated


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Hi guys i am really interested in going into the acrylic route i have seen a lot of the videos and investigated myself aswell .... Well as far as i can think but i still have some questions and i hope you guys can help me out .....
> 
> First of all i am using right now plastic tubing 1/2 X 3/4 and i am used to the aesthetics of this dimension but i think need something that looks a bit thicker than the 1/2 OD rigid which seems to be the most popular option around here since i am using a primo case which is quite huge
> 
> 1.- So for my options i believe i only have the monsoon 5/8 ..... But i read a couple of pages back that the compression fittings doesn't seem to be doing the job right is this true ???? if so i will need to go with the hardline but since i am noob when it comes to acrylic i just think the less hoops i have to jump through will be better .....
> 
> 2.- The other option would be to go the bitspower 160mm tube along with the EML16 Series of compression fittings which i think it would be the best option since they seem to do the job of keeping the tube tight ??? .... Also i have a LOT and i mean A LOT of angles and extenders from bitspower which i think i can reuse them to extend and use on the tigh 90 angles right ????? I am afraid since it isn't so popular some people might have problems with this size....
> 
> 3 I am planning on using the monsoon complete kit to make the measurements and make the cuts even with the heatgun i just dont know if i go with the bitspower route it wont work as well since the tube is a tad wider.... so that will mess up the bends and the tracing since i saw the videos and those tools seem pretty neat and they always go the middle of the tube
> 
> I am sorry for all of the questions and please bare with me since i am ordering from abroad i need to make sure i get everything right ....
> 
> One more thing i am planing ordering 4 meters for my build will this be enough ??????
> 
> Thanks and any feedback would be appreciated


I can offer my recent experience with the Monsoon 5/8" tubing;

The fittings looked shallow and spindly, and with thin threads on the thin aluminum caps, I was a bit apprehensive . . . . until I worked out a bit of an installation routine

One thing to be watchful of, is that each fitting has a rubber o ring that compresses as the cap is tightened, there is also a clear plastic washer that goes between the o ring and the cap, so the cap doesn't friction directly against the rubber o ring.

Those plastic washers have a very thin film of plastic on them, like the protective film on a new fan controller display or similar.

That film, if you don't take it off, has the potential to get twisted under the o ring and causing a leak that's really hard to sleuth out.

The plastic washers, if you're not looking for them and paying attention, will fall out and be lost.

When it comes to tightening the fittings, you have to really tighten the base G1/4 part first and really secure it, if you want to be able to unscrew the cap without backing out the whole fitting.

Once you have the base installed, I found that taking a Q-tip with a tiny bit of silicone grease and lubricating the cap threads . . . on the perimeter of the BASE, not in the cap, lets it go on tighter for better compression, and it also comes off easier if you have to take it back off . . . . just lube the threads lightly, and not the o ring . . . or the tubing.

I was already used to using the Monsoon bending kit for 1/2" tube, so I got the 5/8" mandrel set when I got the 5/8" tube.

I found the 5/8 tube bends as easily as 1/2, and there was no special tricks needed at all.

If you can already bend 1/2", the 5/8" won't pose any new challenges . . . . buy what you need

If you are new to bending, then just learn on what you'll be using, but be sure to buy at least two to three times as much as you anticipate needing, depending on the complexity of the bends you require.

For a change, the red silicone insert that came with the 5/8" mandrel kit, actually fits just right, (unlike the fairly useless blue one in the 1/2 kit) albeit still a bit on the short side.

As far as how well the compression grip holds . . . . . my fears are calmed . .

I have a dual D5 strong pump setup on 24V on the loop with the 5/8" monsoons, and nary a trace of a leak.

I was skeptical when I opened the box for the first time, as they seemed rather light and cheezey . . . . especially compared to Primochil Revolvers, but I'm OK with them now and if I need to use 5/8 tubing again, I'll use the fittings again.

Take away points:

Don't forget or loose the clear plastic washers

Be sure to peel the film off the clear plastic washers

Make sure you have the base in securely

Be sure your bends line up everything without any angular mis-alignment

LUBRICATE the outer threads (for the cap) on the base unit so they don't gall, freeze or jam . . . . You'll also ensure better compression of the o ring

Don't lubricate the threads inside the cap itself, as it'll end up getting on the tube or o ring

Darlene


----------



## sprower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I can offer my recent experience with the Monsoon 5/8" tubing;
> 
> The fittings looked shallow and spindly, and with thin threads on the thin aluminum caps, I was a bit apprehensive . . . . until I worked out a bit of an installation routine
> 
> One thing to be watchful of, is that each fitting has a rubber o ring that compresses as the cap is tightened, there is also a clear plastic washer that goes between the o ring and the cap, so the cap doesn't friction directly against the rubber o ring.
> 
> Those plastic washers have a very thin film of plastic on them, like the protective film on a new fan controller display or similar.
> 
> That film, if you don't take it off, has the potential to get twisted under the o ring and causing a leak that's really hard to sleuth out.
> 
> The plastic washers, if you're not looking for them and paying attention, will fall out and be lost.
> 
> When it comes to tightening the fittings, you have to really tighten the base G1/4 part first and really secure it, if you want to be able to unscrew the cap without backing out the whole fitting.
> 
> Once you have the base installed, I found that taking a Q-tip with a tiny bit of silicone grease and lubricating the cap threads . . . on the perimeter of the BASE, not in the cap, lets it go on tighter for better compression, and it also comes off easier if you have to take it back off . . . . just lube the threads lightly, and not the o ring . . . or the tubing.
> 
> I was already used to using the Monsoon bending kit for 1/2" tube, so I got the 5/8" mandrel set when I got the 5/8" tube.
> 
> I found the 5/8 tube bends as easily as 1/2, and there was no special tricks needed at all.
> 
> If you can already bend 1/2", the 5/8" won't pose any new challenges . . . . buy what you need
> 
> If you are new to bending, then just learn on what you'll be using, but be sure to buy at least two to three times as much as you anticipate needing, depending on the complexity of the bends you require.
> 
> For a change, the red silicone insert that came with the 5/8" mandrel kit, actually fits just right, (unlike the fairly useless blue one in the 1/2 kit) albeit still a bit on the short side.
> 
> As far as how well the compression grip holds . . . . . my fears are calmed . .
> 
> I have a dual D5 strong pump setup on 24V on the loop with the 5/8" monsoons, and nary a trace of a leak.
> 
> I was skeptical when I opened the box for the first time, as they seemed rather light and cheezey . . . . especially compared to Primochil Revolvers, but I'm OK with them now and if I need to use 5/8 tubing again, I'll use the fittings again.
> 
> 
> Take away points:
> 
> Don't forget or loose the clear plastic washers
> *
> Be sure to peel the film off the clear plastic washers*
> 
> Make sure you have the base in securely
> 
> Be sure your bends line up everything without any angular mis-alignment
> 
> LUBRICATE the outer threads (for the cap) on the base unit so they don't gall, freeze or jam . . . . You'll also ensure better compression of the o ring
> 
> Don't lubricate the threads inside the cap itself, as it'll end up getting on the tube or o ring
> 
> Darlene


Thanks for this. I have a few sets of these waiting around and would have never realized otherwise until it became a problem.


----------



## bond32

I'm sure it's been discussed, but what other options are there for something to fill the tube while you bend it? I can't seem to find anything like a silicon insert. If I have to order the one from primochill I will.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I'm sure it's been discussed, but what other options are there for something to fill the tube while you bend it? I can't seem to find anything like a silicon insert. If I have to order the one from primochill I will.


The Monsoon mandrel kits contain a silicone insert. US sizes: one kit has insert for 3/8" ID tubing and one for 1/2" ID tubing.

The EK Tube DIY kit has both EU sizes. For 10mm ID tubing and 12mm ID tubing.

If you search the thread, I believe IT Diva also linked a good silicone tube from McMaster-Carr or similar


----------



## shremi

I know it has been asked before but i couldn't find the answer i know the monsoon mandrells cant give you a tight 90 is there some other tool to make them ??? I have seen at the primochill but based on the reviews people aren't really happy with them

Thanks

Shremi


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The Monsoon mandrel kits contain a silicone insert. US sizes: one kit has insert for 3/8" ID tubing and one for 1/2" ID tubing.
> 
> The EK Tube DIY kit has both EU sizes. For 10mm ID tubing and 12mm ID tubing.
> 
> If you search the thread, I believe IT Diva also linked a good silicone tube from McMaster-Carr or similar


The ID of 1/2" tubing is the same as that off 12mm tubing. Both have an ID of 10mm. These silicone inserts will work with either size.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I know it has been asked before but i couldn't find the answer i know the monsoon mandrells cant give you a tight 90 is there some other tool to make them ??? I have seen at the primochill but based on the reviews people aren't really happy with them


You can use the Monsoon ones to make the initial bend, then find a small smooth round object to make the curve a little tighter. A hole saw bit is ideal for this because you can attach it to the work surface just like you would the mandrels.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Here's K.3nny in action with a hairdryer and hole saw bit




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> The ID of 1/2" tubing is the same as that off 12mm tubing. Both have an ID of 10mm. These silicone inserts will work with either size.


I only have the Monsoon silicone cord, it's about 9.2mm. I don't have the EK cord, so just presumed it would be a little smaller.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> One more thing i am planing ordering 4 meters for my build will this be enough ??????


I used about 1 meter for my build. This included some practice pieces.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

OK which one of you Londoners wants to mail me some tube for my next build ?

http://www.plastock.co.uk/display-plastics/acrylic-tube/acrylic-round-tube/


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> OK which one of you Londoners wants to mail me some tube for my next build ?
> 
> http://www.plastock.co.uk/display-plastics/acrylic-tube/acrylic-round-tube/


Interesting. Too bad it looks like all the colored options have the smallest size 19mm OD.


----------



## Dr m4rc3l

Since that's the bending 101, here is how I did it for the very first time ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr m4rc3l*
> 
> OK, almost done with plumbing. And since there are discussions about how to measure for the bends and about the pros n cons of the monsoon sets, I'll show a bit more detailed how I've done it.
> The different angles and rulers of the set were really helpful and I kind of built the path of the neutral thread of the pipe.
> 
> So I get an idea of the pipe
> 
> Quick sketch of the pipe and the dimensions an than a scale version on my work surface
> 
> Getting the mandrels in position and fix them to the surface
> 
> 
> Let's bend!!
> 
> 
> And after cutting both ends to the right length
> 
> 
> It's done and it fits!


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

That's some very impressive use of the Monsoon measuring kit.


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fieldsweeper*
> 
> 'You clearly do not know the way annealing works (chemically/physically)


I kneal copper all the time at work for refrigeration as to have less joints and cleaner shorter runs. It may be different with copper. But it def does thin the copper, bc you have to heat it and up and bend it. It won't cause any issues but does thin it out a little


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Interesting. Too bad it looks like all the colored options have the smallest size 19mm OD.


I'm only interested in the clear 10 / 12

TR03C.012.010I.CLR


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr m4rc3l*
> 
> Since that's the bending 101, here is how I did it for the very first time ?


Got my kit fittings tube and everything today but i wont be doing any work until the weekend amazing use of the rules i love the way your bends look hopefully it won't be as hard as it seems i was really wondering how to measure those and your pics gave me a goood idea .. Thanks + REP


----------



## Dr m4rc3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Got my kit fittings tube and everything today but i wont be doing any work until the weekend amazing use of the rules i love the way your bends look hopefully it won't be as hard as it seems i was really wondering how to measure those and your pics gave me a goood idea .. Thanks + REP


You will do it well. Remember: that is my first watercooling and acrylic build.. Ever!


----------



## erayser

I was planning on breaking down my acrylic loop this weekend... do a water change, and pull the rads out to blow out dust build up. Because I'm anal, I usually change all the o-rings after breaking down my loop... but I forgot to order o-rings. Thinking of using the old o-rings... or should I just wait till next week and change out the o-rings?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erayser*
> 
> I was planning on breaking down my acrylic loop this weekend... do a water change, and pull the rads out to blow out dust build up. Because I'm anal, I usually change all the o-rings after breaking down my loop... but I forgot to order o-rings. Thinking of using the old o-rings... or should I just wait till next week and change out the o-rings?


If you're going to that much trouble, you might as well wait, and feel better about it later without the anxiety of "When is this going to start leaking . . I know I should have waited and changed those o rings".

In truth, o rings are amazingly tough and reusable, it you haven't wrenched the beejeezus out of the fittings or managed to pinch one, you would be fine reusing them.

Darlene

To Add:

I almost never use them twice either, they are just too cheap to not replace.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I don't see why fitting orings should be any different to all the other orings in the system. If there is no damage they are fine. I have never replaced one oring because of leaking.

Swapping tested working rings for new untested ones could be arguably less reliable.


----------



## emsj86

So I want to go arylic what kit and things that don't come in a kit should I get/recommend


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I don't see why fitting orings should be any different to all the other orings in the system. If there is no damage they are fine. I have never replaced one oring because of leaking.
> 
> *Swapping tested working rings for new untested ones could be arguably less reliable*.


Just because the system isn't leaking, doesn't exactly make the "working tested" o rings more reliable than new.

The chances of slightly damaging an o ring with an over-tightened fitting, even though it doesn't leak, is greater than getting a leaking one from a batch of new ones.

The conditions under which you do the servicing may have an effect on possible issues though . . . .

I once tracked a tiny leakdown issue to finding one of my hairs under an o ring . . may or may not have leaked coolant, but it did leak a miniscule rate of air.


----------



## Menzies

Finished up my tubing today. Done mostly freehand so it isn't as good as I would like but it will have to do for now... Will be filled with EK Pastel Red dye once the leak testing is completed.











Not exactly the best photos in the world but it is late and cramped and all I have for photos is my phone







.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

I need a helping hand/advice. I have ordered a bitspower drain valve. Along with 6 feet of ek clear acrylic 12mm tubing. I need to know how to configure a drain valve that swings up and done using fittings that coincide with an acrylic Ek pump top that will go on top of a Swiftech Mc35x (well this) The Drain Valve is This

Any Ideas? I always see like a little block coming out of the pump with various fittings around it that move and spin... Im just at a loss. Did my entire loop with soft tubing with a 90degree here and there.. Thanks

THe Cautious One










EDIT: Do you have to buy the O rings seperate? Or does one come with each fitting you buy?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Just because the system isn't leaking, doesn't exactly make the "working tested" o rings more reliable than new.
> 
> The chances of slightly damaging an o ring with an over-tightened fitting, even though it doesn't leak, is greater than getting a leaking one from a batch of new ones.
> 
> The conditions under which you do the servicing may have an effect on possible issues though . . . .
> 
> I once tracked a tiny leakdown issue to finding one of my hairs under an o ring . . may or may not have leaked coolant, but it did leak a miniscule rate of air.


I agree w/ the Diva .... when ya put an O-ring on, if ya did it right, you lubricated the ring with water before tightening. This has undoubtedly dried out in the outer areas of contact and I could see them being stretched / damaged during removal. I know some peeps use lubricant / grease which would avoid this but I I am too, perhaps overly concerned about having miniscule grease globules floating around in the system.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> I need a helping hand/advice. I have ordered a bitspower drain valve. Along with 6 feet of ek clear acrylic 12mm tubing. I need to know how to configure a drain valve that swings up and done using fittings that coincide with an acrylic Ek pump top that will go on top of a Swiftech Mc35x (well this) The Drain Valve is This
> 
> Any Ideas? I always see like a little block coming out of the pump with various fittings around it that move and spin... Im just at a loss. Did my entire loop with soft tubing with a 90degree here and there.. Thanks
> 
> THe Cautious One


This give ya any ideas ?




That's a Bitspower Quick Disconnect w/ M X M fitting and 30mm + 10mm extension .... shuda used a 40 but I had the other two here.

I have 3 ' flex tube, compression fitting and a female disconnect in a drawer


----------



## dubldwn

Hey fellas I ordered tubing from mcmaster on a Monday at noon and received it Tuesday evening. Awesome.

This tubing is dirty and scratched; I got acrylic cleaner and it turned out so-so. Very inexpensive so I'm still happy.

Question: is the individually wrapped primochill tubing scratch free/super clean, or does it also have minor scratches?


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dubldwn*
> 
> Hey fellas I ordered tubing from mcmaster on a Monday at noon and received it Tuesday evening. Awesome.
> 
> This tubing is dirty and scratched; I got acrylic cleaner and it turned out so-so. Very inexpensive so I'm still happy.
> 
> Question: is the individually wrapped primochill tubing scratch free/super clean, or does it also have minor scratches?


I encountered this as well. The tubing from mcmaster was so finely scratched all over It was unusable. I proceed to purchase some monsoon tubing and it was clear as glass. The mcmaster tubing became the test pieces since I didn't want to see that garbage in my rig.


----------



## dubldwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I encountered this as well. The tubing from mcmaster was so finely scratched all over It was unusable. I proceed to purchase some monsoon tubing and it was clear as glass. The mcmaster tubing became the test pieces since I didn't want to see that garbage in my rig.


Excellent thanks for the help +rep. I'll use the McMaster for practice and order Primochill for the rig.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I agree w/ the Diva .... when ya put an O-ring on, if ya did it right, you lubricated the ring with water before tightening. This has undoubtedly dried out in the outer areas of contact and I could see them being stretched / damaged during removal. I know some peeps use lubricant / grease which would avoid this but I I am too, perhaps overly concerned about having miniscule grease globules floating around in the system.
> This give ya any ideas ?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a Bitspower Quick Disconnect w/ M X M fitting and 30mm + 10mm extension .... shuda used a 40 but I had the other two here.
> 
> I have 3 ' flex tube, compression fitting and a female disconnect in a drawer


That's Gorgeous! Love the Idea. + Rep for you Sir


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's Gorgeous! Love the Idea. + Rep for you Sir


Oops don't forget the Loctite (Blue) ! Do NOT use on rad connection but if ya don't use it on the quik-disconenct, the fitting may rotate.....other issue....very few rads have all those ports....Thatz an Alphacool 280


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> That's Gorgeous! Love the Idea. + Rep for you Sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops don't forget the Loctite (Blue) ! Do NOT use on rad connection but if ya don't use it on the quik-disconenct, the fitting may rotate.....other issue....very few rads have all those ports....Thatz an Alphacool 280
Click to expand...

Never use a threadlock,its so not worth the drama.....

I use a simple regime for o-rings. I remove them,lightly coat with silicone lube..just enough to make them shine,replace and fit,they will last forever.

If you have any doubts over any o-ring,replace it. Replacing them after every use is a bit much but,if it brings peace of mind then why not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> I don't see why fitting orings should be any different to all the other orings in the system. If there is no damage they are fine. I have never replaced one oring because of leaking.
> 
> Swapping tested working rings for new untested ones could be arguably less reliable.


There is merit in this also,getting the o-ring's on and off can damage them also,letting 'sleeping dog's lie' is no bad thing.

I have damaged c47 o-rings before and still ran them with no leaking. I did pressure test the beejezus out them tho.....


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I've decided instead of doing metal tubing I want to do acrylic for the time being (or PETG). Two reasons- I want blue to be part of my system, the color, and I want to fluid to be blue- the other reason is because it's a lot cheaper than nickel-plated copper, and would be great for seeing how I should set up the system before diving into nickel-plated copper piping.

What's the best size to go if I want to be able to Possibly eventually switch over to metal?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Never use a threadlock,its so not worth the drama.....
> 
> I use a simple regime for o-rings. I remove them,lightly coat with silicone lube..just enough to make them shine,replace and fit,they will last forever.


It's impossible to do the indicated connection otherwise.... simply doesn't work.... I tried for hoiurs even dod 100 couplings / uncouplings of the quick disconnect to "loosen it up". Trying to uncouple the quik-disconnect and you wind up with both the male and female piece in your hand.

And there was no "drama" whatsoever". The "Blue" is designed to be routinely assembled / disassembled.
Quote:


> is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications ...... where *disassembly is required for servicing*.


We have had the grease discussion before..... I don't want the foreign contaminants in the loop and they are detectable in water sampling. When cleaning out heat exchangers for electrical power generators on the job, the most common foreign materials are lubricants and gasket goop.

The pull out C47's are no concern, the twist on / off ones could suffer.....again see this on the job a lot. So at component connections or G1/4 multiple connections, after removing the tubes, I just drop in a pot of warn water fro a few minutes before disassembly.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Never use a threadlock,its so not worth the drama.....
> 
> I use a simple regime for o-rings. I remove them,lightly coat with silicone lube..just enough to make them shine,replace and fit,they will last forever.


It's impossible to do the indicated connection otherwise.... simply doesn't work.... I tried for hoiurs even dod 100 couplings / uncouplings of the quick disconnect to "loosen it up". Trying to uncouple the quik-disconnect and you wind up with both the male and female piece in your hand.

And there was no "drama" whatsoever". The "Blue" is designed to be routinely assembled / disassembled.
Quote:


> is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. Loctite® Threadlocker Blue 242® is particularly suited for applications ...... where *disassembly is required for servicing*.


We have had the grease discussion before..... I don't want the foreign contaminants in the loop and they are detectable in water sampling. When cleaning out heat exchangers for electrical power generators on the job, the most common foreign materials are lubricants and gasket goop.

The pull out C47's are no concern, the twist on / off ones could suffer.....again see this on the job a lot. So at component connections or G1/4 multiple connections, after removing the tubes, I just drop in a pot of warn water fro a few minutes before disassembly.[/quote]

I also use the blue Loctite,for leaky pumptops with knackered threads,it required considerable force to remove.
I very much doubt you would find any silicone lube in a loop water sample,the squeegee action from the o-rings will remove nigh on all and the OD of the tube is not in the waterpath. What you find in your workplace is not the same,you have industrial practices with industrial results.

You worry about microscopic traces of silicone but dump a crap ton of Mayhems pastel in your loop? Seriously?


----------



## bond32

Do you guys think this ugly bubble thing will be a problem? I've got a tough bend between the cpu outlet and gpu inlet that's offset. My patience isn't up to the task of acrylic bending...


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The PrimoChill acrylic tubes comes in
> Inner Diameter: 3/8in.
> Outer Diameter: 1/2in.
> Wall Thickness: 1/16in.. This means that PrimoChill acrylic tubes and fittings are NOT compatible with EK, E22, & Bitspower tubes and fittings.


These are kind of a stupid questions. I have the Monsoon economy compression fittings, Primochill tubing, and the EK full cover block for my ASUS Crosshair mobo. My questions are:

1) Should I use any lubricant to get the tube into the base of the fitting? Even reamed it is still very tight going into the base. Is that normal?

2) So, the Primochill tubes dont work with Bitspower and EK fittings. Will I have any problems using Monsoon fittings on the EK block (along with the Primochill tubing)

3) With the Monsoon Economy Compression fittings (single 0-Ring), the tube is supposed to go all the way into the base, right? Im assuming that its not supposed to just touch the base and then rely on just the single O-Ring to seal the deal. I know the Hardline Fittings (along with the collar installed) has the tube go all hte way into the base. Im assuming that the tube on these fittings is also supposed to go all the way into the base

Any help would be much appreciated. Id hate to install blocks, bend the tubing, install it, and do it wrong


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Do you guys think this ugly bubble thing will be a problem? I've got a tough bend between the cpu outlet and gpu inlet that's offset. My patience isn't up to the task of acrylic bending...


I say you wait until youre patience is back up, or even sky high, and then redo it. It may not cause a problem as far as functionality but it would bother me to have that in my rig. If you have an awkward bend or two multiple directions on a single plane, you may want to get the mandrel kit from Monsoon. It really works well when used right for awkward and complicated bends.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Do you guys think this ugly bubble thing will be a problem? I've got a tough bend between the cpu outlet and gpu inlet that's offset. My patience isn't up to the task of acrylic bending...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks like it was too cool to bend or you weren't using a mandrel (silicone rubber hose in center) Either way the answer is no since it was stressed unevenly while at different temperatures.


----------



## dubldwn

Test swirl. I think I've got this figured out.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dubldwn*
> 
> Test swirl. I think I've got this figured out.


Did you figure out how to get the cord out after you made the swirl . . . . . .

Sink full of water helps, along with pulling it out a little after each rotation, if you didn't oven heat it and bend all at once.

Darlene


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dubldwn*
> 
> Test swirl. I think I've got this figured out.


Sweeet!!!
And as IT Diva said..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Do you guys think this ugly bubble thing will be a problem? I've got a tough bend between the cpu outlet and gpu inlet that's offset. My patience isn't up to the task of acrylic bending...


Sorry if I sound condescending.. but that picture looks like you tried to do every possible mistake in acrylic pipe bending 101








If I recall, you was considering acrylics a few months back, but didnt really want to course you didnt have the patience? Im glad to see you are trying it out anyways! even though it seams you still dont have the patience







and the bend you are describing IS fairly hard compared to straight 90's.. a mandrel might not work too well for this, but you will still need:

1: get a silicone insert to make sure the tube does not collapse (dont know if you are using this or not?)
2: get a mandrel or just a round object with a 1-2'' diameter (depending on how sharp bends you wanna make) to bend around
3: use a heat gun at low-medium setting and evenly heat up MORE of the tube than what needs to be bend.. I wold say 6-8'' for this bend
4: do not keep the heat at the same spot for too long.. keep moving / rotating the tube till it starts flexing.. give it a few seconds more.. but not so much that it starts bubbling.
5: do not twist the tube while it is in its molten state.. rotating is okay.. just dont rotate one end while the other end is stationary, aka twisting.

A suggestion to this particular bend.. make a 90 degree around a mandrel or round object, then, while the tube is still molten, slightly push the 90 degree bend sideways to make it hit the GPU / CPU port (dont know how else to explain it :S)
Kinda looks like thats what you tried to do here, but you didnt heat it up enough? trial and error my friend







back on the horse!

Luckily for me, my CPU port lined up more or less perfectly with the GPU port









Dont know if this helps, or just scares you further away from acrylic :S but I would NOT use that pipe in my loop.. it looks fairly stressed and might suffer from micro fractures or even cracks..

Best of luck! and plz share more pictures! we all learn from it.


----------



## Dr m4rc3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Do you guys think this ugly bubble thing will be a problem? I've got a tough bend between the cpu outlet and gpu inlet that's offset. My patience isn't up to the task of acrylic bending...


You should get the monsoon kits for measuring and bending... Then it's only training and patience. Without experience and patience I don't think you'll make it free handed ....

Better to use fittings and straight tubes instead...


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> I also use the blue Loctite,for leaky pumptops with knackered threads,it required considerable force to remove.
> I very much doubt you would find any silicone lube in a loop water sample,the squeegee action from the o-rings will remove nigh on all and the OD of the tube is not in the waterpath. What you find in your workplace is not the same,you have industrial practices with industrial results.
> 
> You worry about microscopic traces of silicone but dump a crap ton of Mayhems pastel in your loop? Seriously?


Ya have some formatting issues to fix

I did a test pre-assembly ... put a drop on the threads and disassembled 24 hours later .... was no "bigga deal" ... I wouldn't use it on a pump or rad .... a fitting that gives me an issue, I can just toss. **Key** issue here is "what's alternative ?" ... the assembly would not function without it....

I have found it in water samples. Industrial practices are far superior to home enthusiasts.... water samples are taken each month and skill level is worlds apart. Installation manuals stress the need for minimizing any deleterious substances in the waste stream ... also seen pics of it in block micro-channels.....

As for the squeegee action ... ya lost me there...1st off it's the chamfered end that needs the "lube" so how you get the grease on there without getting it in the flow path is something I don't understand.

In building the loop, I would say I averaged about between 2 and 5 assemblies / disassemblies ....per joint

1. Measure and cut
2. Chamfer edges
3. Grind edges smooth
4. Dips in water
5. Test Fit
6. Rinse and repeat fine tuning measurements to the nearest 1/2mm

If I had done

1. Measure and cut
2. Chamfer edges
3. Grind edges smooth
4. Apply grease
5. Test Fit
6. Rinse and repeat fine tuning measurements to the nearest 1/2mm

When ya remove the tube and go to recut, you leave grease on the O rings .... reinserting the tube yes, the chamfered end will "Squeegee" the grease off the O-Rings and push it ahead of it into the fitting. Not to mention when I need to trim that edge by a mm or so, even after wiping which leaves some on the cut edge, there's still residue which would transfer to my scroll saw base, my blade, my hands, and that would attract acrylic dust.

Grease is by no means a major concern, not like it's going to cause every build to fail .... but there is the chance that one might find some in the micro channels at next tear down .... a minor inconvenience. But again Key here is .... it's entirely unnecessary....water works just fine on a well chamfered tube end, no messy stuff.

As for the Mayhems , I'm disappointed it went from red to black but It still looks better than it did w/ just water and I don't have any mayems **** stuck in my microchannels.

In short, it's all about what ya get versus what ya give up.....

1. With the Loctite, it took me from a good idea but a non-working assembly, to something that worked and I had no problem getting the fittings apart.....upside, yes / downside none that I have observed as yet.
2. Using grease is not so much a question of "why not" as much as it is a question of "why". With the water instead of the grease, the job is quite easy with less bother, fuss or downside potential.
3. With the coolant, it looks better, I saw no temp rise after a week on DW (though that's a non issue with me being at voltage wall and highest core at 72C under stress testing), and I have seen no clogging... there's an upside, no downsides observed so far other than the color change.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> These are kind of a stupid questions. I have the Monsoon economy compression fittings, Primochill tubing, and the EK full cover block for my ASUS Crosshair mobo. My questions are:
> 
> 1) Should I use any lubricant to get the tube into the base of the fitting? Even reamed it is still very tight going into the base. Is that normal?
> 
> 2) So, the Primochill tubes dont work with Bitspower and EK fittings. Will I have any problems using Monsoon fittings on the EK block (along with the Primochill tubing)
> 
> 3) With the Monsoon Economy Compression fittings (single 0-Ring), the tube is supposed to go all the way into the base, right? Im assuming that its not supposed to just touch the base and then rely on just the single O-Ring to seal the deal. I know the Hardline Fittings (along with the collar installed) has the tube go all hte way into the base. Im assuming that the tube on these fittings is also supposed to go all the way into the base
> 
> Any help would be much appreciated. Id hate to install blocks, bend the tubing, install it, and do it wrong


I can't speak to the various manufacturer interactions but my approach was as follows:

1. The plastic reamer they sell on water cooling sites is ok .... but this one (HDX085) is worlds better and was cheaper....there's sometimes be some burrs or "stragglies" on the inside edge so I'd ream the ID just lightly to strip the burrs and then ream the OD quite a bit more

http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inner-Outer-Reamer-HDX085/204218601?N=5yc1vZc6gb

With the plastic one, reaming as a chore.... with the bigger metal one, it went quicker, I was able to maintain better control and as you might expect, got better results.

2. I polished the edges with very fine sand paper .... disk laid flat on table and rubbing tube edges over same where I had a bad (uneven, or non 90 degree) I used a dremel at low speeds with fine disk to even out. Uses the pressure option on sink faucet to push water thru and around outside of tube.

3. I kept a small dish of distilled water at hand and let fittings soak before assembly. .. before inserting a tube, I gave it a dip. This was all the lubrication I needed . In fact, was concerned that insertions were too loose as they easily came apart when wet.

If ya don't have any luck with water, ya might try adding some type of surfactant ....something that would wash away with water.... if that don't work either, final try would be using some silicone grease (B Neg could recommend a brand for ya) wiping making sure to leave just thin film and no lil gobs.

Again, you should check your IDs and OD's to make sure ya got a match.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You have a different method to me,I have 2 sacrificial fittings that are only used for loop building,these have no o-rings in,I do what I need to do then swap out for the final placement.
No fouled fittings or tube.
As for the lube,a smear on the first o ring transfers the correct amount on to the tube for the second.

If you disassemble as much as you say you do then you should consider this method also.....


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'd need a lot more test fittings







.... While bending, I can see that approach as basically ya just using C47 or equivalent. I had 17 different fitting types. I don't take the system down often.... but being anal, if a tube is not 100% vertical or horizontal, I' redoing it....literally shaving 1/2 mm off at a time sometimes.

As for the grease, again, it's not a matter of "why not" by "why" ? What's wrong w/ water ? Feels like putting a candle on a birthday cake









If the tube is "pushing" the grease like a snow plow .... I don't see it not building up against the front edge of the plow.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Silicone grease is made to preserve and protect o-rings, and helps insure they don't twist/pinch when tightening parts and form a better leak-free seal, all of which is a good thing. That's why divers use silicone o-ring grease on all their equipment. It's also food grade pure, which makes it a lot better to use than soapy water or olive / grapeseed / etc oil, all of which have been suggested in this thread before and could contribute to premature o-ring deterioration / failure or become food for bacteria in a loop. I just can't see how there would ever be any downside to having trace amounts of silicone grease in your loop. If anything I imagine it would be beneficial, certainly more so than the junk they use in dyes / coolants.

I've gotten to where I use a minute amount of silicone o-ring grease on every o-ring in my loops and I would encourage others to do the same. It doesn't matter whether they are for fittings for flexible or rigid tubing or block or pump o-rings. I also use a small amount on my bending cords which I've found greatly helps inserting and removing the cord prior to and after a bend, especially with Primochill's tubing which sometimes has small variances in the tubing's ID.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Again, all that may be true .... but, yet again, what's wrong with water ?

If you're now adding surfactants to the list of No No's then Blitz Kit Part 2 gotta be outta the question.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I can't speak to the various manufacturer interactions but my approach was as follows:
> 
> 1. The plastic reamer they sell on water cooling sites is ok .... but this one (HDX085) is worlds better and was cheaper....there's sometimes be some burrs or "stragglies" on the inside edge so I'd ream the ID just lightly to strip the burrs and then ream the OD quite a bit more
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inner-Outer-Reamer-HDX085/204218601?N=5yc1vZc6gb
> 
> With the plastic one, reaming as a chore.... with the bigger metal one, it went quicker, I was able to maintain better control and as you might expect, got better results.
> 
> 2. I polished the edges with very fine sand paper .... disk laid flat on table and rubbing tube edges over same where I had a bad (uneven, or non 90 degree) I used a dremel at low speeds with fine disk to even out. Uses the pressure option on sink faucet to push water thru and around outside of tube.
> 
> 3. I kept a small dish of distilled water at hand and let fittings soak before assembly. .. before inserting a tube, I gave it a dip. This was all the lubrication I needed . In fact, was concerned that insertions were too loose as they easily came apart when wet.
> 
> If ya don't have any luck with water, ya might try adding some type of surfactant ....something that would wash away with water.... if that don't work either, final try would be using some silicone grease (B Neg could recommend a brand for ya) wiping making sure to leave just thin film and no lil gobs.
> 
> Again, you should check your IDs and OD's to make sure ya got a match.


Thanks. My dimensions for fittings and tube are correct. And my tube, when reamed goes in but its just very snug. But I notice the more I ream the OD, the better the angle, and the easier it goes in to the base. I think I will wet the fittings to give a little bit of lubrication.

I was also thinking of sanding the very immediate tips with a fine grit just to knock it down a touch. Just so I am clear, fittings stay in distilled water and then you would dip the end of the tube and insert, right?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> I was also thinking of sanding the very immediate tips with a fine grit just to knock it down a touch. Just so I am clear, fittings stay in distilled water and then you would dip the end of the tube and insert, right?


The reaming process can leave burrs, so that was my primary reason.

Well when moving on to the next fitting, I just would pick say a G-1/4 threaded tee and the 3 C47s and drop them in water. Loosely assembled the 3 pcs and drop back in bowl. They didn't "need to be there", was just convenient place to put them. They'll get just as wet with a dip as they will with sitting there. Doesn't take much effort at all.....about as hard as I have pushed down on the mounting post securing an Intel stock cooler.


----------



## MrBlunt

if we are talking about rigid compression... i would def not suggest simply sliding tube into loosely assembled fitting... slide one piece on at a time. first put compression collar, then o ring, put into tube into base of fitting.. then slide everything down and tighten.


----------



## Dr m4rc3l

I dunno if someone wants to use monsoon hardline fitting, but if you want make sure to use only monsoon tubes!! Here is what just happened:

But now I got bigger problems again. I was about to get everything together when suddenly a pipe broke in my hand!


Now I have to redo the pipe bending!
I used primochill tubes first and decided to use monsoon hard line fittings later. For the fittings you have to glue an additional acrylic ring to the pipe ends. Doing that I realized that the primochill tubes are slightly thicker than the monsoon tubes. Now that the glue is hardened that fact seems to apply too much tension and the rings and tubes got little cracks which are weakening and the ends break easily now....


So let's start again ... Now only with monsoon tubes ...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

PETG tube?


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBlunt*
> 
> if we are talking about rigid compression... i would def not suggest simply sliding tube into loosely assembled fitting... slide one piece on at a time. first put compression collar, then o ring, put into tube into base of fitting.. then slide everything down and tighten.


C47's are not compression fittings....simply press in and done.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PETG tube?


Excellent question . . . .

With PETG being less UV stable than acrylic, that may be a factor with the UV activated adhesive.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> PETG tube?
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent question . . . .
> 
> With PETG being less UV stable than acrylic, that may be a factor with the UV activated adhesive.
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

The adhesive would be my first suspect.


----------



## Dr m4rc3l

I think it's simply mechanical. The rings came with the fitting from monsoon, so does the adhesive. I don't think they would sell UV activated glue if UV is not good for their acrylic parts... I think the tube just applies too much pressure to the ring cause it is too tight. The hardening of the adhesive pushes even more and the ring and the tube are stiff and start cracking...

Just measured: OD of Primochill tube is 12,9 mm and the monsoon tube is 12,5 mm


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm not so sure it's not just a fatal design flaw on Monsoon's part. This guy claims he had problems with Monsoon's Hardline rings cracking when using Monsoon's tubing, and that is what the pictures posted appear to show ...

 

edit:
Seems to blow a hole in their marketing them for "any build that requires _mission critical reliability_" ... "Hard/Lock _for a connection you can count on_"

Seems like the extra cost and trouble using the Hardlock collars over other compression and push fit fittings isn't worth it at all, not when we're seeing pictures like that.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr m4rc3l*
> 
> I think it's simply mechanical. The rings came with the fitting from monsoon, so does the adhesive. I don't think they would sell UV activated glue if UV is not good for their acrylic parts... I think the tube just applies too much pressure to the ring cause it is too tight. The hardening of the adhesive pushes even more and the ring and the tube are stiff and start cracking...
> 
> Just measured: OD of Primochill tube is 12,9 mm and the monsoon tube is 12,5 mm


Is it Primochill acrylic, or PETG, . . . and

Does it slip fit into the monsoon collars?

If not, them maybe the interference fit is the culprit.

Acrylic hates stress risers, just look at how easy it is to crack the ends of the internally threaded acrylic fittings

I didn't see a warning against the collar fittings for the Monsoon PETG tubing, so maybe it's OK. (for someone else besides me that is)

Darlene


----------



## Dr m4rc3l

Hmm mine should be acrylic... Dunno if there are many options for PETG in Germany...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not so sure it's not just a fatal design flaw on Monsoon's part. This guy claims he had problems with Monsoon's Hardline rings cracking when using Monsoon's tubing, and that is what the pictures posted appear to show ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Seems to blow a hole in their marketing them for "any build that requires _mission critical reliability_" ... "Hard/Lock _for a connection you can count on_"
> 
> Seems like the extra cost and trouble using the Hardlock collars over other compression and push fit fittings isn't worth it at all, not when we're seeing pictures like that.


Looks like it got wrenched down with some amount of angular misalignment creating a stress riser where the metal pressed the back edge of the collar over a narrow arc.

D.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not so sure it's not just a fatal design flaw on Monsoon's part. This guy claims he had problems with Monsoon's Hardline rings cracking when using Monsoon's tubing, and that is what the pictures posted appear to show ...
> 
> edit:
> Seems to blow a hole in their marketing them for "any build that requires _mission critical reliability_" ... "Hard/Lock _for a connection you can count on_"
> 
> Seems like the extra cost and trouble using the Hardlock collars over other compression and push fit fittings isn't worth it at all, not when we're seeing pictures like that.


I am currently building my system with monsoon hardline fittings. From what I've observed is that when it comes to mounting the finished colared tube onto the fittings they are not very forgiving. If they are not square on the fitting there is not much room for error when tightening. Meaning too much of an angle and the stress from the tightening collar will probably break something. I have not finished all the bends or leak tested but I can definitely see this being a problem and will be double checking for fit before final assembly.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not so sure it's not just a fatal design flaw on Monsoon's part.
> Seems to blow a hole in their marketing them for "any build that requires _mission critical reliability_" ... "Hard/Lock _for a connection you can count on_"....
> 
> Seems like the extra cost and trouble using the Hardlock collars over other compression and push fit fittings isn't worth it at all, not when we're seeing pictures like that.


Yeah, that was my thought when the videos came out .... doesn't look like they give enough "give" .

BTW, two questions since i been very busy of late and missed a lot of OCN posts ...

1. Has there been any discussion of the Bitspower Rigid Tube fittings ? certainly attractive but dang expensive

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22682/ex-tub-2603/Bitspower_Enhanced_Dual_90-Degree_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_White_BP-DWE90DML.html?tl=c703s2266b145

2. What happened to Tee fittings ? I went looking earlier and came up pretty dry.


----------



## dubldwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> 2. What happened to Tee fittings ? I went looking earlier and came up pretty dry.


For rigid I'm going to use this until I find something better:

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Acrylic-Fitting-Adaptor-4in/dp/B00DMJHIII


----------



## DRT-Maverick

IF monsoon would design some fittings for metal tubing maybe they'd have a larger market, I know a few people who shy away from them as far as acrylic due to the glue.


----------



## FrancisJF

How do you guys keep the rigid tube not scratched up when you put the fitting on?









mine is scratched when I was putting the fitting on.....


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not so sure it's not just a fatal design flaw on Monsoon's part.
> Seems to blow a hole in their marketing them for "any build that requires _mission critical reliability_" ... "Hard/Lock _for a connection you can count on_"....
> 
> Seems like the extra cost and trouble using the Hardlock collars over other compression and push fit fittings isn't worth it at all, not when we're seeing pictures like that.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that was my thought when the videos came out .... doesn't look like they give enough "give" .
> 
> BTW, two questions since i been very busy of late and missed a lot of OCN posts ...
> 
> 1. Has there been any discussion of the Bitspower Rigid Tube fittings ? certainly attractive but dang expensive
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22682/ex-tub-2603/Bitspower_Enhanced_Dual_90-Degree_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_White_BP-DWE90DML.html?tl=c703s2266b145
> 
> 2. What happened to Tee fittings ? I went looking earlier and came up pretty dry.
Click to expand...

I have seen them used with no reported problems,they use a tried and tested methodology.

T's are available,Biyspower still have the Q fitting range..not seen a traditional tee for a while now you mention it,not ones that I would use anyway.


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> BTW, two questions since i been very busy of late and missed a lot of OCN posts ...
> 
> 1. Has there been any discussion of the Bitspower Rigid Tube fittings ? certainly attractive but dang expensive
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22682/ex-tub-2603/Bitspower_Enhanced_Dual_90-Degree_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_White_BP-DWE90DML.html?tl=c703s2266b145
> 
> 2. What happened to Tee fittings ? I went looking earlier and came up pretty dry.



Just put mine to use. Can't say anything about security over time just yet. Can't imagine they are any less reliable than the C47s which also have dual O-rings, and they 've worked just fine for some time now.
You will have to be careful when the compression collar is on the tube, though. Prior to fastening it can slide around in the tube and scratches it easily.
As mentioned above, Bitspower's Q-blocks range and a number of stop plugs get's you there. I imagine similar solutions are available for the lower cost brands.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> [...] 2. What happened to Tee fittings ? I went looking earlier and came up pretty dry.


Do you mean like Bitspower BP-MBTR-C or BP-MBTMB? Those shouldn't be hard to find.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dubldwn*
> 
> For rigid I'm going to use this until I find something better:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Acrylic-Fitting-Adaptor-4in/dp/B00DMJHIII


There's this:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10382/ex-tub-622/Bitspower_G14_Matte_Black_T_Adapter_BP-MBTMB.html

But can't find in other colors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Do you mean like Bitspower BP-MBTR-C or BP-MBTMB? Those shouldn't be hard to find.


I agree they shouldn't be but actually doing so hasn't exactly been productive. Black MBTMB I found quite easily as you can see above .....the rotary I don't have a use for but was looking also for something that matched the Bitspower compression fittings..... the MBTMB requires the Tee + 3 C47's and while black is easy to find, other colors are scarce (seen red). Failing that, the MBTMB would work .... as long as ya want black.

Frozen find anything on "Tee" or "T"....Performance PC's new website doesn't make things easy .....horrendous with the popup windows that jump to another point on the screen when ya mouse over. Came up with Black at each site and a red or 2 but that's it.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> IF monsoon would design some fittings for metal tubing maybe they'd have a larger market, I know a few people who shy away from them as far as acrylic due to the glue.


Not all Monsoon fittings require glue for acrylic tubing. The Economy fittings don't use any glue or plastic sleeve. They work just like compression fittings.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Oh nice, are they pretty reliable?


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Oh nice, are they pretty reliable?


They designed fantastically. However they aren't the highest quality. You get what to pay for.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Oh nice, are they pretty reliable?


I've not had any issues with mine. Monsoon Economy line fittings with Monsoon acrylic tubing.

EDIT: Like lowfat said, I wouldn't necessarily call them the best quality, but they held up fine for me. I wouldn't call them low quality either. I got the Black Nickel set and they do seem to scratch pretty easily if you aren't careful.


----------



## DreadManD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr m4rc3l*
> 
> I dunno if someone wants to use monsoon hardline fitting, but if you want make sure to use only monsoon tubes!! Here is what just happened:
> 
> But now I got bigger problems again. I was about to get everything together when suddenly a pipe broke in my hand!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have to redo the pipe bending!
> I used primochill tubes first and decided to use monsoon hard line fittings later. For the fittings you have to glue an additional acrylic ring to the pipe ends. Doing that I realized that the primochill tubes are slightly thicker than the monsoon tubes. Now that the glue is hardened that fact seems to apply too much tension and the rings and tubes got little cracks which are weakening and the ends break easily now....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So let's start again ... Now only with monsoon tubes ...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The adhesive would be my first suspect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> I'm not so sure it's not just a fatal design flaw on Monsoon's part. This guy claims he had problems with Monsoon's Hardline rings cracking when using Monsoon's tubing, and that is what the pictures posted appear to show ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> Seems to blow a hole in their marketing them for "any build that requires _mission critical reliability_" ... "Hard/Lock _for a connection you can count on_"
> 
> Seems like the extra cost and trouble using the Hardlock collars over other compression and push fit fittings isn't worth it at all, not when we're seeing pictures like that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Is it Primochill acrylic, or PETG, . . . and
> 
> Does it slip fit into the monsoon collars?
> 
> If not, them maybe the interference fit is the culprit.
> 
> Acrylic hates stress risers, just look at how easy it is to crack the ends of the internally threaded acrylic fittings
> 
> I didn't see a warning against the collar fittings for the Monsoon PETG tubing, so maybe it's OK. (for someone else besides me that is)
> 
> Darlene


The same thing happened with my build twice!!! I switched my tubing to PETG in the end and it worked fine. I have long suspected that the adhesive breaks down the regular acrylic tubing. It will work fine with the Monsoon or PETG Tubing Only.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr m4rc3l*
> 
> Hmm mine should be acrylic... Dunno if there are many options for PETG in Germany...


Quick question: What fittings are you using? I am using the Monsoon Economy Compression fittings and I also tried PrimoChill tubing. However, it doesnt fit into the Monsoon fittings. I spoke with their staff and they told me that they intentionally made their tubing's OD 0.2mm smaller so that it will fit into hardline bases without issue. With my PrimoChill tubing, even after a dramatic outside deburring - which creates a nearly 45 degree angle on the tip - it still wouldnt fit into the base without extreme pressure. So much so that I was concerned it was going to break the PCB of my mobo.

In addition, Monsoon's silicone bending cord is also just a touch smaller so its easier to take out after bending and doesnt require lubricant to get it into the tube. Cleaning out the inside of a bent tube is never fun.

Anyway, so far Monsoon tubing fits beautifully into the fittings I have tested (PrimoChill Ghost, Monsoon Econ Compression) whereas PrimoChill fittings fit ok into PrimoChill Ghost fittings and not at all into Monsoon Economy Compression fittings. Just an FYI


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I can't speak to the various manufacturer interactions but my approach was as follows:
> 
> 1. The plastic reamer they sell on water cooling sites is ok .... but this one (HDX085) is worlds better and was cheaper....there's sometimes be some burrs or "stragglies" on the inside edge so I'd ream the ID just lightly to strip the burrs and then ream the OD quite a bit more
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Inner-Outer-Reamer-HDX085/204218601?N=5yc1vZc6gb
> 
> With the plastic one, reaming as a chore.... with the bigger metal one, it went quicker, I was able to maintain better control and as you might expect, got better results.
> 
> [snipped]
> 
> Again, you should check your IDs and OD's to make sure ya got a match.


Hey, I got that tube reamer and youre right, its worlds apart and was well worth $10.

Also, I talked with Monsoon Staff and I learned something. They make their tubing 0.2mm smaller on the OD to make sure that there is no issue with fitment into bases. The reason for this is that the acrylic tubing is made through the extrusion process and that is not as accurate as machined parts (like the fittings). So the sizes can vary slightly.

I ordered Monsoon tubing and it fits perfectly into the Monsoon Economy Compression fittings that I will be using. None of the PrimoChill tubes, even after extensive OD reaming, will fit in without either extensive pressure, excessive lube, or heating the end of the tube and then shoving it in. I threw a micrometer on the PrimoChill tubes and found that out of the 4 tubes I received 3 were slightly larger than 1/2". the 4th tube was 1/2' on the money but was slightly out of round. The Monsoon Tubing was consistent in roundness and dimensions.

Also, rather than using a coping saw/jewelers saw, or even a full size hacksaw, I found a Husky "Junior Hacksaw" for $4 at Home Depot while I was picking up the reamer. It has much finer teeth that other hacksaws and after doing test cuts can conclude that this is the best option for cutting acrylic that I have tried to date. This is the saw:

Home Depot: Husky Junior Hacksaw

That is all for now


----------



## seross69

I love the Monsoon hardline fittings and tube. I got a UV dryer with a fan that is suppose to be used on hands and feet that cures the UV glue in less than 5 minutes..


----------



## Menzies

Quick photo of my nearly finished 350D with Primochill PETG tubing. Original plan was to tee do some of the tubing to get straighter lines but my impatience got the best of me.


----------



## Jakusonfire

So, metric acrylic tubing in colours is now available.

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_19&products_id=3697

http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_19&products_id=3701

Really glad now I didn't cave and go with Primochill imperial tubing and fittings just because there were colour options.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

This is good news! Rep+


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Hmm I wonder if I should do a lot of bends or throw in some 90degree fittings. Really depends. I like the Look of the ecoline stuff from monsoon more than I like their other things, but if it's not as high quality that's a drag. I might end up going with bitspower provided I find a decent supplier with black nickel.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I did a spreadsheet of 5 US vendors for the 66 different items on my shopping list, 17 categories of which were just fittings. I found that:

FCPU had about 95% of the items I needed
PPCs had about 75%
The others offerings were too limited to make it worth the effort.

The pricing on the various items were very close; splitting the orders by cheapest guy was not worth it because of added shipping being more than savings. Found the pump $5 (2.5%) cheaper someplace else but again shipping ate the savings. When i was buying however, I oft "bought out" entire stock and had to order balance from other sources.

the biggest problem you'll find with BP fittings, at least for me is the limited available of Tee fittings (if you need them) in colors other than black and red.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> So, metric acrylic tubing in colours is now available.
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_19&products_id=3697
> 
> http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6_19&products_id=3701
> 
> Really glad now I didn't cave and go with Primochill imperial tubing and fittings just because there were colour options.


I would click the link but the BP site is.......life shortening.


----------



## electro2u

Sorry... super basic question for a very basic person...
Trying to decide which tubing and fittings to order as I'm preparing to switch from Primoshill LRT Adv. to full acrylic:
*Can I bend Bitspower 12/16mm Acrylic tubing?

It's crystal link... that doesn't sound bendable
so... I *want* 13/16mm bendable acrylic that is compatible with 16mm multilink enhanced BP fittings.
I know that 12/16mm EK acrylic does not fit in the BP fittings.

I may settle for E22 10/12mm since I already have some fittings for that, but I'd prefer the larger OD.

This may actually not be something well known so I'll do a little testing. I've ordered some Monsoon Acrylic tubing, just 1 30" tube @ 13/16mm
And I've ordered the BP fittings I will use.
Let's see if they are compatible.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Sorry... super basic question for a very basic person...
> Trying to decide which tubing and fittings to order as I'm preparing to switch from Primoshill LRT Adv. to full acrylic:
> *Can I bend Bitspower 12/16mm Acrylic tubing?
> 
> It's crystal link... that doesn't sound bendable
> so... I *want* 13/16mm bendable acrylic that is compatible with 16mm multilink enhanced BP fittings.
> I know that 12/16mm EK acrylic does not fit in the BP fittings.
> 
> I may settle for E22 10/12mm since I already have some fittings for that, but I'd prefer the larger OD.
> 
> This may actually not be something well known so I'll do a little testing. I've ordered some Monsoon Acrylic tubing, just 1 30" tube @ 13/16mm
> And I've ordered the BP fittings I will use.
> Let's see if they are compatible.


If the tubing ID/OD is the same as the fitting ID/OD, then you'll be fine. Just about the only time you'd run into an issue is if the tubing is say 12mm and the fitting is 1/2" (12.7mm).


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> If the tubing ID/OD is the same as the fitting ID/OD, then you'll be fine. Just about the only time you'd run into an issue is if the tubing is say 12mm and the fitting is 1/2" (12.7mm).


Cool!








What scared me was this Singularity Computers Buildlog:



@8:56 he talks about how, for whatever reason, the EK 16mm tubing does not fit the Bitspower 16mm multi link enhanced fittings. By a lot.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Sorry... super basic question for a very basic person...
> Trying to decide which tubing and fittings to order as I'm preparing to switch from Primoshill LRT Adv. to full acrylic:
> *Can I bend Bitspower 12/16mm Acrylic tubing?
> 
> It's crystal link... that doesn't sound bendable
> so... I *want* 13/16mm bendable acrylic that is compatible with 16mm multilink enhanced BP fittings.
> I know that 12/16mm EK acrylic does not fit in the BP fittings.
> 
> I may settle for E22 10/12mm since I already have some fittings for that, but I'd prefer the larger OD.
> 
> This may actually not be something well known so I'll do a little testing. *I've ordered some Monsoon Acrylic tubing, just 1 30" tube @ 13/16mm
> And I've ordered the BP fittings I will use.
> *Let's see if they are compatible.


Monsoon tubing is made in Imperial sizes, 1/2" X 3/8" and 5/8" X 1/2" . . . . that means the metric restating of the size is approximate

EK tubing is made to actual metric measurements, therefore if you see it referred to by an imperial size, the imperial size will only be approximate

Bitspower fittings are made to actual metric dimensions as well.

You have to play close attention to the size reference when looking at fittings or tubing, to be sure you use the sizing convention that that manufacturer actually adheres to, and not a more general term.

Sometimes you'll see 16mm and 5/8" used interchangeably, and that's not how it works.

Wouldn't be surprised to learn that BP has their fittings and tube made slightly under 16mm so that you have to use their tubing if you use their fittings.

As far as I know, the only fittings that fit Monsoon 5/8" OD hardline are Monsoon fittings . . . .

But, since 5/8" is about 0.006" smaller than 16mm, if the BP fittings are on the small side, they may end up working . . .

Looking forward to your results.

Darlene


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I'm still trying to wrap my head around why 16mm OD EK tubing won't work with 16mm Bitspower fittings. Seeing that said in that Singularity video was surprising to me.

Has anyone used 12mm EK tube with 12mm Bitspower Multi-Link or Enhanced Multi-Link fittings? Are they similarly incompatible?

If so, why? What is the tube's actual ID and OD dimensions?


----------



## ElCid

Hi. Measuring ODs in multiple points (within the same circumference) with a digital caliper:

EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 500mm : from 15.96mm to 16.17mm
EK-HD Tube 10/12mm 500mm : from 11.95mm to 12.10mm
Bitspower Crystal link tube for Cross 2-slots : from 11.98 to 12.04mm
No Bitspower 16mm sorry.


----------



## electro2u

I stumbled upon a buildlog that uses bent monsoon 5/8" tubing and bitspower 16mm enh. Multilink compression fittings... It looks great so

Thunder Cats Are Go!!!

Here's the build link... it's local!
https://www.overclock.net/t/1491991/caselabs-sm8-bitspower-build


----------



## Jakusonfire

Ek 12mm tubing works just fine with all bitspower fittings.
If bitspower large tubing isn't 16mm it shouldn't be called that.
I had considered getting some bp 16mm fittings when ek tube was all you could get but was turned off by the large fittings on little adaptors. I still find this a little hard to believe considering they specify 16mm on the product page for bp tubing but if it is right I'll be disappointed in bitspower. Imagine buying "5/8" soft fittings that didn't work with another brand of 5/8 tubing, or g1/4 fittings that didn't fit other g1/4


----------



## ccRicers

5/8" is just a smidge under 16mm. Like, 1/8 of a mm. If the 5/8" tubing works for his build, then more power to him. However I prefer to err on tubing that is slightly thicker than the fitting openings, than slightly thinner. It would be nice if all rigid tubing manufacturers post their build tolerances for measurement.


----------



## Juthos

Bitspower 16mm tubing:


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Ek 12mm tubing works just fine with all bitspower fittings.
> *If bitspower large tubing isn't 16mm it shouldn't be called that.*
> I had considered getting some bp 16mm fittings when ek tube was all you could get but was turned off by the large fittings on little adaptors. I still find this a little hard to believe considering they specify 16mm on the product page for bp tubing but if it is right I'll be disappointed in bitspower. Imagine buying "5/8" soft fittings that didn't work with another brand of 5/8 tubing, or g1/4 fittings that didn't fit other g1/4


Looking at ElCid's and Juthos' measurements it seems that BP 16mm tube isn't likely to be the problem.

Juthos' measurement of BP tube looks right on and ElCid wrote "_EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 500mm : from 15.96mm to 16.17mm_" which is a ridiculous amount of oversize variation. Also Singularity says in that vid he had trouble fitting EK's 16mm tubing in Bitspower's 16mm fittings even after he "sanded the end of the tube to the point of there being a step in the tube" which also sounds like EK has some serious tolerance issues with their 16mm tube being too fat.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Looking at ElCid's and Juthos' measurements it seems that BP 16mm tube isn't likely to be the problem.
> 
> Juthos' measurement of BP tube looks right on and ElCid wrote "_EK-HD Tube 12/16mm 500mm : from 15.96mm to 16.17mm_" which is a ridiculous amount of oversize variation. Also Singularity says in that vid he had trouble fitting EK's 16mm tubing in Bitspower's 16mm fittings even after he "sanded the end of the tube to the point of there being a step in the tube" which also sounds like EK has some serious tolerance issues with their 16mm tube being too fat.


0.13mm at most is not a large step. Acrylic tube will always have some variation. What we really need is inside measurements of bp and ek fittings. Just from those measurements I'm not convinced there is a real mismatch and not just a batch issue or something. 16mm tubing existed before these fittings and it just doesn't seem logical that one brand would specify a custom size. Unless their fittings are overtight.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Not sure where you got "0.13mm at most" from. ElCid's measurements show a 0.19 0.21 mm variation almost all of it oversize and from Singularities' description it seems likely that their tolerance problems are even worse than that. Surely if there's an issue with EK's 16mm tube being too large to fit in the Bitspower fittings, then EK's tube is the problem.

There hasn't been any post in this discussion suggesting any issue with the size of Bitspower's tube, so I was just not sure where you got "_If bitspower large tubing isn't 16mm it shouldn't be called that_" from. The same might ought to be said about EK's tube though.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Not sure where you got "0.13mm at most" from. ElCid's measurements show a 0.19 mm variation almost all of it oversize and from Singularities' description it seems likely that their tolerance problems are even worse than that. Surely if there's an issue with EK's 16mm tube being too large to fit in the Bitspower fittings, then EK's tube is the problem.
> 
> There hasn't been any post in this discussion suggesting any issue with the size of Bitspower's tube, so I was just not sure where you got "_If bitspower large tubing isn't 16mm it shouldn't be called that_" from. The same might ought to be said about EK's tube though.


0.13 is the largest difference in the measurements of the two brands of tube. That's where I got it from.
I got the if it isn't 16mm it shouldnt be called 16mm from the fact their fittings were supposedly not fitting 16mm tubing, but being fine with 5/8. Really meaning if their large tubing *and fittings* weren't 16mm. I also said I didn't believe it likely

Is that all clear enough now.


----------



## electro2u

I think so. I don't have a dang caliper I guess I'll pick one up so I can measure the bitspower fittings.

It is definitely possible the EK 16mm acrylic was a batch issue for the Singularity guy.

It's also possible he was trying to get people to use Bitspower crystal link 16mm (which was brand new when that video was published) with the popular Bitspower fittings which had already been out for quite some time.

Personally I find all the crystal link and 90 degree fittings unappealing. Bends are a lot better for flow in a large loop and bent acrylic looks a lot nicer than right angles everywhere (imo).


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> **Snip**
> 
> *Can I bend Bitspower 12/16mm Acrylic tubing?
> 
> It's crystal link... that doesn't sound bendable
> so... I *want* 13/16mm bendable acrylic that is compatible with 16mm multilink enhanced BP fittings.
> 
> **Snip**


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> **Snip**
> 
> Personally I find all the crystal link and 90 degree fittings unappealing. Bends are a lot better for flow in a large loop and bent acrylic looks a lot nicer than right angles everywhere (imo).


I can't confirm the BP acrylic is bendable. But the Crystal Link name is just that, as fancy name. It's acrylic, not crystal. So I can't see why it shouldn't be bendable. With the myriad of pre-cut lengths they are offering they're certainly gearing it towards selling as many fittings as possible. But bending should still be possible.

On the matter of which brand has a "true" 16mm system or not; It's a nominal size anyway. In the real world it's all about the tolerances. Being a nominal 16mm system is no guarantee it will fit all other 16mm systems when they're not following a set standard. Business strategy plays a part here as well.

With 12mm tubes and fittings it all started with BP's Crystal Link GPU-bridging tubes and the C47/C48 fittings. Thereafter every other brand, realizing BP's market position, probably engineered their tubing to fit those fittings in addition to their own to maximize sales of tubing. BP was allowed to set the standard. Which makes things very simple for us.

If I recall correctly EK was first out with 16mm fittings and tubing. So they set the tube tolerances to fit their fittings, without being able to check its compatibility with BP fittings. Now with the BP fittings out, it would appear they are too snug for the EK tube (intentionally or not is open to speculation). The measurements posted here suggests that BP in general make their tubing to a tighter tolerance, allowing their fittings to be equally tight. As it stands now is that 16mm EK tubing is unlikely to fit BP fittings because of its loose tolerances. It does actually say on BP's website that their 16mm tube is "Only Compatible With Bitspower Fitting C89/EML16 Series".

Producing to tight tolerances generally drives the price up. It's interesting to see that BP tubing is quite a lot cheaper than EK.

Edit: Visit from the Grammar Police


----------



## ElCid

Hi. I've taken photos if it can be of any help.

Max OD at a point on EK-HD 16 Tube:


Min OD at that same point (turning 90º) on EK-HD 16 Tube:


So I guess that makes the average OD for that tube 16.12mm

Now the IDs on EK-HDC fitting pieces:



The tube fits extremely tight into the fitting:


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> I can't confirm the BP acrylic is bendable. But the Crystal Link name is just that, as fancy name. It's acrylic, not crystal. So I can't see why it shouldn't be bendable. With the myriad of pre-cut lengths they are offering they're certainly gearing it towards selling as many fittings as possible. But bending should still be possible.


BP acrylic is plexiglass and it isn't bendable.


----------



## GaMbi2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> BP acrylic is plexiglass and it isn't bendable.


huh? must be something new. I never heard of acrylic that could not be bend.. just apply a bit of heat, and it will practically bend itself


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Plexiglass is acrylic is plexiglass. I haven't used Bitspower tubing yet but I have heat-bent / formed 'Plexiglas®', Acrylite®, Lucite®, and Perspex®, just to name a few different brand name acrylics I work with, many many times.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Plexiglass is acrylic is plexiglass. I haven't used Bitspower tubing yet but I have heat-bent / formed 'Plexiglas®', Acrylite®, Lucite®, and Perspex®, just to name a few different brand name acrylics I work with, many many times.


I'm daft. Pardon my mistake. Must remember not to believe everything I read on the internet


----------



## aliensbruh

So I've got just about everything in my build in, now I just need to do the tube bending and I'm somewhat confident about the simple bends, stuff like |___| where you just need to do a 90 degree bend here and there. I'm super nervous to do the complex bends where you're going multiple directions and different angles very close to each other.

How does everyone go about getting them done? I've watched hours worth of videos now and it seems like a lot of people just eye it up and don't measure it all. As well, most of the videos only cover the simple bends, they don't show how to get the complex bends done.

Does anyone have any tips for this? I did buy the Monsoon mandrels to make the bends a little easier, is there any supplies I should buy to make life easier?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aliensbruh*
> 
> So I've got just about everything in my build in, now I just need to do the tube bending and I'm somewhat confident about the simple bends, stuff like |___| where you just need to do a 90 degree bend here and there. I'm super nervous to do the complex bends where you're going multiple directions and different angles very close to each other.
> 
> How does everyone go about getting them done? I've watched hours worth of videos now and it seems like a lot of people just eye it up and don't measure it all. As well, most of the videos only cover the simple bends, they don't show how to get the complex bends done.
> 
> Does anyone have any tips for this? I did buy the Monsoon mandrels to make the bends a little easier, is there any supplies I should buy to make life easier?


I've seen a couple vids where the builder seems to be literally bending the tubing into approximate position using the rig to help eyeball while the acrylic is hot. They make the tubing long on purpose and make the final cuts to size after verifying that the bends create the proper angles.

I'm about to start bending my very first tubes myself this weekend. I'll be attempting to do a lot of the bends with mandrels but there are a couple bends that will be very slight and I will be using that eyeball with the rig as a guide method for those.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I'm about to place an order but not sure if i should go with 10/12 or the larger 13OD tubing. Also, PETG or standard acrylic?

I'm still up in the air for fittings, bitspower, EK, primochill and monsoon all make decent rigid compression fittings. Help guys, there are too many options for me to choose.


----------



## aliensbruh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I've seen a couple vids where the builder seems to be literally bending the tubing into approximate position using the rig to help eyeball while the acrylic is hot. They make the tubing long on purpose and make the final cuts to size after verifying that the bends create the proper angles.
> 
> I'm about to start bending my very first tubes myself this weekend. I'll be attempting to do a lot of the bends with mandrels but there are a couple bends that will be very slight and I will be using that eyeball with the rig as a guide method for those.


Yeah it seems like that might be the route I might need to go, I guess I just prefer a more methodical and measured out method though.

Only problem I might run into is I have the EK 12mm OD, 19.5" long tubes and I might need to cut them down a little so that I can actually put them into the case and eye up the bends as they're too long to fit in as is.


----------



## Blue Screen

I need to order some more parts for my loop, I am in need of some help.

I want to use these fittings from EK, does this mean I'm forced to buy this acrylic tube? I know there is a margin of error for every different brand when it comes to the fittings and tubings, I am assuming an EK tubing would have less issues with the EK fittings versus another brands tubing?

I wanted to route the back of the caselabs with full acrylic but I do not know if a 2feet strech with bends will be strong enough to hold. Would I be better off just using soft tube in the back of the case?


----------



## Blue Screen

Any words of advice?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Screen*
> 
> I need to order some more parts for my loop, I am in need of some help.
> 
> I want to use these fittings from EK, does this mean I'm forced to buy this acrylic tube? I know there is a margin of error for every different brand when it comes to the fittings and tubings, I am assuming an EK tubing would have less issues with the EK fittings versus another brands tubing?
> 
> I wanted to route the back of the caselabs with full acrylic but I do not know if a 2feet strech with bends will be strong enough to hold. Would I be better off just using soft tube in the back of the case?


You aren't forced to buy any brand, but it might need a bit of luck or sanding, as well as good pressure testing. If you have a local supplier that is cheaper, you might as well ask for a small sample piece to check. Obviously, if you buy EK tubing and it doesn't fit into EK fittings, then you can return it which you wouldn't be able to do if it's another brand. There was some discussion about the various brands of 16mm tubing a couple pages back.

About the "back of the caselabs": a drawing would be helpful to understand what you are wanting to achieve.


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blue Screen*
> 
> I need to order some more parts for my loop, I am in need of some help.
> 
> I want to use these fittings from EK, does this mean I'm forced to buy this acrylic tube? I know there is a margin of error for every different brand when it comes to the fittings and tubings, I am assuming an EK tubing would have less issues with the EK fittings versus another brands tubing?
> 
> I wanted to route the back of the caselabs with full acrylic but I do not know if a 2feet strech with bends will be strong enough to hold. Would I be better off just using soft tube in the back of the case?


As of now Bitspower and EK offer the most readily available 16mm tubes. It has been shown to be an issue with EK tubes being too large for Bitspower fittings. Conversely, Bitspower tubes _might_ be too loose for EK fittings. Haven't tried it personally, and haven't seen it tried by others.
Your safest bet is to go with EK tubes. You know they'll fit. Or as suggested, get a sample piece to check fit.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> It has been shown to be an issue with EK tubes being too large for Bitspower fittings.


Singularity posted this on his facebook page, and Performance PCs wrote it on the product page, but could you provide a link to anyone independent who corroborates this story?

As you said yourself, "business strategy plays a part". No reason to further a misapprehension if it's purely invented by Bitspower marketing dept.


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Singularity posted this on his facebook page, and Performance PCs wrote it on the product page, but could you provide a link to anyone independent who corroborates this story?
> 
> As you said yourself, "business strategy plays a part". No reason to further a misapprehension if it's purely invented by Bitspower marketing dept.


I have no other sources than you mentioned. So "it's been shown" is not the right phrase to use here, fair point to you there. It's an indication there might be an issue. Some more sources would be nice. I merely wanted to bring that to @Blue Screen's attention.
I have no plans to use 16mm tube in the foreseeable future, or else I'd give EK tube a go on the BP fittings, and vice versa.

I'd for sure hate to aid in keeping a misapprehension alive. But I'd also think a marketing dept. would have more sense than to state an incompatibility without there actually being an issue. Could get them quite a bit of flak if it turns out to be false. On the flip side, knowing about an issue and keeping silent wouldn't be good either..

About business strategy playing a part. I was tippy-toeing around the fact that it's possible for manufacturers wanting to make their fittings only compatible with their own tubing. I think and hope wholeheartedly is not a strategy any of them would contemplate. I would like to be able to mix and match brands according to availability, price and quality. It's tempting when you have a strong market position, though.


----------



## WiSK

Also coincidence that the "news" that EK tube didn't fit in Bitspower fittings came on the same day that Bitspower released their own tubing range, and that back in January it was no problem for him to do a build with EK tube in BP fittings.


----------



## vegarhed

Is this the build from January you mentioned? Here he's using EK HD acrylic fittings into BP adapters. So no interface between EK tube and BP hardline fitting.

Are there any affiliations I don't know about? What does he have to gain from allegedly wrongly outing 16mm EK tube as incompatible with 16mm BP fittings?

There are a few commenters to his Facebook-post that can't get the EK tube in without sanding it down also. They are even having problems with 16mm BP tube in BP fittings


----------



## Blue Screen

Thanks guys
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You aren't forced to buy any brand, but it might need a bit of luck or sanding, as well as good pressure testing. If you have a local supplier that is cheaper, you might as well ask for a small sample piece to check. Obviously, if you buy EK tubing and it doesn't fit into EK fittings, then you can return it which you wouldn't be able to do if it's another brand. There was some discussion about the various brands of 16mm tubing a couple pages back.
> 
> About the "back of the caselabs": a drawing would be helpful to understand what you are wanting to achieve.


I'll try and read a few pages back. I did not post a picture since there is not much to draw, it's just like routing a power supply cable to the motherboard but a bit further as it's a radiator on top of the case to the bottom of the case ( a 2 feet stretch of tubing )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> As of now Bitspower and EK offer the most readily available 16mm tubes. It has been shown to be an issue with EK tubes being too large for Bitspower fittings. Conversely, Bitspower tubes _might_ be too loose for EK fittings. Haven't tried it personally, and haven't seen it tried by others.
> Your safest bet is to go with EK tubes. You know they'll fit. Or as suggested, get a sample piece to check fit.


This is what I was worried of!


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quick question guys. 3/8ID by 1/2OD or 1/2ID by 5/8OD? About to purchase some fittings.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Quick question guys. 3/8ID by 1/2OD or 1/2ID by 5/8OD? About to purchase some fittings.


There's really no correct answer more so than whichever you prefer the look of.

That said, given the size choices and some of your previous posts I'm guessing you have settled on Monsoon's fittings? You seem to be aware of the differences between their 'Hardlock' line with the glue on collars and their 'economy' compressions. Not sure if you are also aware that the bases of Monsoon's fittings are now have an antimicrobial silver finish. Just mentioning that as some see that as a plus and others don't want silver in their loop. Some have regretted buying their fittings not knowing abut the silver beforehand. If you're ok with that or prefer it then no big deal.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Quick question guys. 3/8ID by 1/2OD or 1/2ID by 5/8OD? About to purchase some fittings.


Aesthetics is usually the deciding factor here . . . .

The caveat being that you are not working in cramped spaces or needing minimum bend radiuses.

If you have a big case, and uncomplicated runs, the larger may look nicer.

In a smaller case, or with a lot of runs bunched together in some places, the smaller would be easier and cleaner looking.

Think about how much space you have, and how much tubing you need to run, and how it's going to come together in the aggregate, and the choice of size will become somewhat self evident.

The Monsoon "economy" 5/8" fittings seem pretty spindly and very "economy", out of the box . . . . . The aluminum cap is a very thin stamping with rather fine threads.

Be aware that the little plastic washer between the cap and o ring has a plastic film on it that needs to be peeled off to prevent it from squrinching off and migrating under the o ring causing a leak. Knowing that they're there will also help you keep an eye out for them so you don't loose them from the start.

You'll also want to be sure to put a tiny dab of silicon grease on a Q-tip and lightly lube the outer threads of the base before screwing the cap down on it. . . . . The caps tend to bind on the bases, otherwise, and when you go to unscrew them, the whole fitting unscrews, not just the cap.

If you keep those little tidbits in mind to insure a good installation, the fittings actually work quite well.

My biggest nit-pic with the Monsoon economy 5/8 fittings is that the caps don't screw down far enough on the base and a silver ring of threads is always visible, and that the base o ring is very thick, and always shows between the base and what it's screwed into. . . . pic below:

On the plus side . . . that's a dual D5 Strong pump setup on 24V and it's never leaked a drop.



Darlene


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> There's really no correct answer more so than whichever you prefer the look of.
> 
> That said, given the size choices and some of your previous posts I'm guessing you have settled on Monsoon's fittings? You seem to be aware of the differences between their 'Hardlock' line with the glue on collars and their 'economy' compressions. Not sure if you are also aware that the bases of Monsoon's fittings are now have an antimicrobial silver finish. Just mentioning that as some see that as a plus and others don't want silver in their loop. Some have regretted buying their fittings not knowing abut the silver beforehand. If you're ok with that or prefer it then no big deal.


I know about the silver. I am also using nickel-plated blocks. I hear Ineed to stay away from copper sulfate like PTNuke and use a different biocide?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I know about the silver. I am also using nickel-plated blocks. I hear Ineed to stay away from copper sulfate like PTNuke and use a different biocide?


I've never heard of any issues with using a copper sulfate biocide like PT Nuke with silver [edit: that doesn't mean there aren't any, just that I'm unaware if so. News to me.] but it seems to me that if you are going to use silver as a biocide then you shouldn't need to use a chemical biocide of any kind. I would be more likely to want to use a coolant with anticorrosion protection but I'm not sure whether that would even be helpful with Monsoon's fittings.

A lot of people will warn you about mixing silver with nickel at all in a loop (doing so automatically voids the warranty on anything from Koolance for example) but their incompatibility seems a bit overhyped. A good nickel finish on a block tends not be effected at all from the use of a silver kill coil in a loop, but I personally would never screw a silver fitting into a nickel or copper block with them in direct contact like that not even if I was using a coolant with anti-corrosive properties. The anodic differential between silver and nickel or copper/brass is enough to scare me away from having them come into direct contact with each other and I'm not the only one who's expressed similar concerns. Martin (Martinsliquidlab) has cautioned against direct contact between silver and nickel many times, and B Negative and derickwm (EK rep) also have shared concerns about it ...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Just be aware that Monsoon has switched to using antimicrobial silver centers with their fittings.
> 
> They used to have matching painted barbs like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Now they have silver barbs like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Here's Monsoon's Geno ('BoxGods' on XS) mentioning the fairly recent change:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *We recently switched all of our barbs over to antimicrobial silver* so not a mistake by your reseller...except maybe for not updating their pictures =)
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, many are thinking that screwing silver into direct contact with other metals might not be such a good idea ...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Ohhh, uh well it's not something I recommend. *Why did Monsoon start using silver for their fittings...*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Many of us have asked the same thing. I can only assume they figured it would be regarded as a plus, but clearly not everyone thinks so.
> 
> I don't know if I'd want a silver fitting screwed into nickel, copper or brass threads on a block or a rad. There's enough of a difference in galvanic potential there between them that I would be worried about the direct contact regardless of whether a corrosion inhibiting coolant was used. A silver coil in a res or a tube is one thing, but direct metal to metal contact is another isn't it? Am I wrong to think that might be an issue?
> 
> edit: FWIW, Martin seems to think it might be something to worry about.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> Silver coils in the res is one side but direct electrical contact is something else entirely.
> My concern is the fitting 'welding' itself in more than anything else....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> fyi: in case you're not familiar with those in the discussion above, B NEGATIVE is a bit of a watercooling guru of sorts, a specialtech.co.uk rep on OCN, current curator of the 'OCN Water Cooling Club', the Acrylic and Copper '101' bending threads, etc, and derickwm is likewise an OCN watercooling old-schooler and is EK's rep on OCN, the the 'Martin' I linked/referred to is well-known in these parts for his testing a la MartinsLiquidLab.
Click to expand...


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I plan on using the Mayhem's Pastel coolant w/ biocide and such. From what I hear they work fine w/ monsoon fittings and nickel plated blocks.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I plan on using the Mayhem's Pastel coolant w/ biocide and such. From what I hear they work fine w/ monsoon fittings and nickel plated blocks.


The pastels have everything you need already . . no additional biocide required.

D.


----------



## dsmwookie

Is it possible to use quick disconnects with the acrylic? I ordered a Phanteks Evolv and wanted to take a stab at the acrylic tubing. QDCs seems are a new love affair and make maintenance easier for the added expense.


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsmwookie*
> 
> Is it possible to use quick disconnects with the acrylic? I ordered a Phanteks Evolv and wanted to take a stab at the acrylic tubing. QDCs seems are a new love affair and make maintenance easier for the added expense.


You could only use them when both connections are facing the same direction like a U-bend.


----------



## Gavush

I'd like to thank the contributors to this thread... read through it quite a bit. That with the help of some Youtube videos I completed my first custom loop & used Primochill PETG tubing. There was a bit of a learning curve but I was able to get the job done in about 6 hours using a 4-pack of tubing and still have 2' left.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I'd like to thank the contributors to this thread... read through it quite a bit. That with the help of some Youtube videos I completed my first custom loop & used Primochill PETG tubing. There was a bit of a learning curve but I was able to get the job done in about 6 hours using a 4-pack of tubing and still have 2' left.


dang that looks pro...
How'd you get your GPUs so straight? Are they anchored?


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> dang that looks pro...
> How'd you get your GPUs so straight? Are they anchored?


I made sure the links and bridge were square before I tightened them down


----------



## lowfat

My solution to GPUs being off a few degress to CPU ports. Before someone says something, the run is not warped, the sleeving is slightly crooked. Didn't have time to fix before my sunlight went away.





@XNine


----------



## sinnedone

Looking good lowfat


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I love the sleeved tubing!


----------



## lowfat

It is pretty easy to do. Just needed to drill out the compression ring openings a bit. Not sure if this will work w/ any other fittings besides Primochill though.


----------



## emsj86

Ok do I want to switch to arylic or petg tubing. My question in your opinion what is the best for a first timer tubing and fittings to get. I would prefer to stick with all the same brand fittings and same brand tubing. Either both the same or as long as they work well together. Thank you. I allready have a heat gun, bending materials, deburrer, sand paper. Etc


----------



## Hefner

Do you guys have any tips for doing 180 bends?

I have no trouble making a 180 that fits, however, making one that looks good it so hard.

I've nailed a 180 before, and it looked extremely esthetically pleasing(see the build in my sig), but I had vibration issues with my fans and I had to add some rubber for noise absorption. Needless to say my perfect 180 didn't fit anymore. I've been struggling to get the same result ever since.


----------



## lowfat

Are you using mandrels? Also make sure you are heating up a very wide patch of tubing, more so than a 90 degree bend.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Are you using mandrels? Also make sure you are heating up a very wide patch of tubing, more so than a 90 degree bend.


Not using any mandrels.

The way I tried to make the 180 was to first do a 90, then do another 90. I will try to do it at once by heating a large area like you suggest once my next batch of tubing arrives.


----------



## Knight Rider

To do this 180 bend I used my vacuum hose loll.
And no it's not a joke.


----------



## lowfat

You should always use some sort of mandrel, even if it some random household item.


----------



## MGazonda

I'm planning on going with Monsoon PETG tubing. 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD.

When I read about what fittings to get with that, my brain hurts. It seems that there are problems with fittings being the right size between different vendors - especially, but certainly not limited to imperial/metric stuff.

Monsoon measures in metric, correct?

What fittings would work with this? Is there a best choice?

Seems that Bitspower has the best reputation for fittings, do their fittings work with Monsoon PETG?

Anything else I should be aware of when picking out fittings?


----------



## lowfat

You need to use Primochill or Monsoon tubings/fittings. Everything else is metric.


----------



## vegarhed

Monsoon is imperial. It is in places marketed as 1/2" (13mm) and 5/8" (16mm) which causes confusion.
So with Monsoon 1/2" tubing you'll need Monsoon hardline fittings (Economy or Mission Critical variants available), or Primochill fittings.

Bitspower fittings are metric and will not work with Monsoon tubing.

A surefire way to avoid problems is to use tubing and fittings from same brand. However, there is a degree of interchangeability between fittings in the same category, metric and imperial.
On the metric side, for 12mm OD, the most widely used tubes (Bitspower, E22, and EK) work fine with either Bitspower and EK fittings. For 16mm OD it's safest to stick with one brand.
On the imperial side it's the same situation. But, I should mention that a small number of people have had problems using Primochill tubes in Monsoon's Mission Critical fittings. The Economy fittings are more forgiving so you should be fine with wither Monsoon or Primochill.

Edit: There is also the option to use these buggers from Rocket Science. They are essentially Bitspower's C47 fittings for 1/2" tubing (1/2" = 12.7mm).


----------



## MGazonda

Ok, thanks to both of you for the clarification. Thought Monsoon was metric as well. Seems that between Monsoon and Primochill that Monsoon has a better reputation here so I'll likely go with them for tubing + fittings.

Though, maybe not. Guess I have a bit more to look into.


----------



## Daggi

I tried out EK-HDC 16 mm. fittings today with Monsoon 16 mm (5/8) tubes. Replaced O rings with someone who was thicker. It feels like it is as tightly fixed as with a 16 mm tube from EK. I'm Gonna try it out in a loop to see how tight it is in real use. But it should be OK


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGazonda*
> 
> Ok, thanks to both of you for the clarification. Thought Monsoon was metric as well. Seems that between Monsoon and Primochill that Monsoon has a better reputation here so I'll likely go with them for tubing + fittings.
> 
> Though, maybe not. Guess I have a bit more to look into.


You will be very happy with the monsoon hard line fittings and tubing, it is easy to work with and I have had zero problems with it and I love it.. will not use any other!!


----------



## 19amc77

Not exactly a speedy retort but for anyone like me just researching these fittings could you not assemble the bent piece with all the fittings including collars just minus the glue as a, (quite literal), dry run. It would just not be watertight but any fine sanding/bending could still be done. I'm liking the look of the Free Centers and gonna try this out.


----------



## gponcho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Aesthetics is usually the deciding factor here . . . .
> 
> The caveat being that you are not working in cramped spaces or needing minimum bend radiuses.
> 
> If you have a big case, and uncomplicated runs, the larger may look nicer.
> 
> In a smaller case, or with a lot of runs bunched together in some places, the smaller would be easier and cleaner looking.
> 
> Think about how much space you have, and how much tubing you need to run, and how it's going to come together in the aggregate, and the choice of size will become somewhat self evident.
> 
> The Monsoon "economy" 5/8" fittings seem pretty spindly and very "economy", out of the box . . . . . The aluminum cap is a very thin stamping with rather fine threads.
> 
> Be aware that the little plastic washer between the cap and o ring has a plastic film on it that needs to be peeled off to prevent it from squrinching off and migrating under the o ring causing a leak. Knowing that they're there will also help you keep an eye out for them so you don't loose them from the start.
> 
> You'll also want to be sure to put a tiny dab of silicon grease on a Q-tip and lightly lube the outer threads of the base before screwing the cap down on it. . . . . The caps tend to bind on the bases, otherwise, and when you go to unscrew them, the whole fitting unscrews, not just the cap.
> 
> If you keep those little tidbits in mind to insure a good installation, the fittings actually work quite well.
> 
> My biggest nit-pic with the Monsoon economy 5/8 fittings is that the caps don't screw down far enough on the base and a silver ring of threads is always visible, and that the base o ring is very thick, and always shows between the base and what it's screwed into. . . . pic below:
> 
> On the plus side . . . that's a dual D5 Strong pump setup on 24V and it's never leaked a drop.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


Darlene,

Regarding the Bits adapter is that the G1/4" 90 (45x2) Degree G1/4" Adapter Extender or is it the 90 Degree Double Rotary Adapter M/F G1/4 adaptor? Also I assume that you are using the Monsoon hardline tubing with the Monsoon economy fittings?

Also thanks for the tip about the clear plastic ring inside. I was not aware that there is a thin plastic film on it which requires it to be peeled off.

George


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Aesthetics is usually the deciding factor here . . . .
> 
> The caveat being that you are not working in cramped spaces or needing minimum bend radiuses.
> 
> If you have a big case, and uncomplicated runs, the larger may look nicer.
> 
> In a smaller case, or with a lot of runs bunched together in some places, the smaller would be easier and cleaner looking.
> 
> Think about how much space you have, and how much tubing you need to run, and how it's going to come together in the aggregate, and the choice of size will become somewhat self evident.
> 
> The Monsoon "economy" 5/8" fittings seem pretty spindly and very "economy", out of the box . . . . . The aluminum cap is a very thin stamping with rather fine threads.
> 
> Be aware that the little plastic washer between the cap and o ring has a plastic film on it that needs to be peeled off to prevent it from squrinching off and migrating under the o ring causing a leak. Knowing that they're there will also help you keep an eye out for them so you don't loose them from the start.
> 
> You'll also want to be sure to put a tiny dab of silicon grease on a Q-tip and lightly lube the outer threads of the base before screwing the cap down on it. . . . . The caps tend to bind on the bases, otherwise, and when you go to unscrew them, the whole fitting unscrews, not just the cap.
> 
> If you keep those little tidbits in mind to insure a good installation, the fittings actually work quite well.
> 
> My biggest nit-pic with the Monsoon economy 5/8 fittings is that the caps don't screw down far enough on the base and a silver ring of threads is always visible, and that the base o ring is very thick, and always shows between the base and what it's screwed into. . . . pic below:
> 
> On the plus side . . . that's a dual D5 Strong pump setup on 24V and it's never leaked a drop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
Click to expand...

Darlene,

Regarding the Bits adapter is that the G1/4" 90 (45x2) Degree G1/4" Adapter Extender or is it the 90 Degree Double Rotary Adapter M/F G1/4 adaptor? Also I assume that you are using the Monsoon hardline tubing with the Monsoon economy fittings?

Also thanks for the tip about the clear plastic ring inside. I was not aware that there is a thin plastic film on it which requires it to be peeled off.

George

That's the Bits dual rotary m/f 90 in the pic.

D.


----------



## Hideko

hey everyone, i am unable to find any silicone fuel line around where i live and would rather not order it in just for tube bending. Are there any alternatives to the silicone fuel line that I can use to bend the acrylic tubing?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I made my own tube-cutting guide. It looks lame but it works:


----------



## lowfat

Looks awesome. The Monsoon one is to small IMO. To hard to get a good grip.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> Looks awesome. The Monsoon one is to small IMO. To hard to get a good grip.


Yeah. I drilled a countersunk hole in the base of it so it could be screwed down which helped. Monsoon should have made it with a couple holes like that pre-drilled. I don't use it any more though as I went overkill with this to cut my tubes.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

omg that would be the ultimate way to cut a tube!


----------



## ivoryg37

Anyone know what size Silicon Tubing I should get for Bitspower crystal link? I've been reading on acrylic bending and keep seeing that all the vendors tubing sizes aren't the same even if it says they are the same. I want to get the correct silicon tubing the first time around. Any links?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Anyone know what size Silicon Tubing I should get for Bitspower crystal link? I've been reading on acrylic bending and keep seeing that all the vendors tubing sizes aren't the same even if it says they are the same. I want to get the correct silicon tubing the first time around. Any links?


No idea if you are talking about Bitspower's 13mm ID / 16mm OD tube,
but if you mean their 10mm ID / 12mm OD tube then Darlene posted this ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> For you guys using E22 or other 10mm tubing, McMaster is still your best friend.
> 
> Solid silicon cord . . . . super easy to work with, noticably better than the buna-N
> 
> Get the 3/8" size in medium, or for tighter bends the medium soft durometer.
> 
> I've been using this since the first E22 tubing, and it's top tier.
> 
> Darlene
> 
> From the catalog:
> 
> FDA-Compliant Silicone Rubber
> 
> Color: See below
> Temperature Range: See below
> Tensile Strength: See below
> Use indoors and outdoors
> 
> Made from FDA-compliant materials, this silicone rubber is safe for food contact and maintains its flexibility over a wide temperature range.
> 
> Cord-Smooth Finish
> 
> Color: Orange-red
> Temperature Range: -65° to +400° F
> Tensile Strength: 650 psi
> 
> Length tolerance is ±1/4". Durometer tolerance is ±5.
> 
> To Order: Please specify durometer hardness: 40A (medium soft), 50A (medium), 60A (medium hard), or 70A (hard).
> 
> 36" Long
> 
> Dia. Dia.
> Tolerance Each
> 
> 1/8" ±0.016" 9808K21 $6.43
> 1/4" ±0.027" 9808K22 6.85
> 3/8" ±0.027" 9808K23 8.40
> 1/2" ±0.031" 9808K24 9.32
> 3/4" ±0.039" 9808K25 13.31
> 1" ±0.051" 9808K26 18.13


----------



## Solonowarion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I made my own tube-cutting guide. It looks lame but it works:


Not lame at all looks good. If you want to go a step further get some paint filler. Sand it down and paint it. Then hit it with a few layers of polycrylic. Or just leave it how it is!


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> No idea if you are talking about Bitspower's 13mm ID / 16mm OD tube,
> but if you mean their 10mm ID / 12mm OD tube then Darlene posted this ...


Thanks for this


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> No idea if you are talking about Bitspower's 13mm ID / 16mm OD tube,
> but if you mean their 10mm ID / 12mm OD tube then Darlene posted this ...


+1 to this. I have found the 3/8-9.5mm forming cord to work well with Bitspower and EK 10/12 tube.
I have some 10mm cord and it produces the same results but is more difficult to use just because it is harder to extract after forming.


----------



## XTwinyX

Guys, does anybody know if their is any acrylic tube that works with primochill fittings other than primochill tube ? I'm only interested in clear stuff, and the primochill stuff is insanely expensive for just acrylic tube.... Not to mention its out of stock everywhere and ill probably be messing lots of it up while I'm learning how to do my first build


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XTwinyX*
> 
> Guys, does anybody know if their is any acrylic tube that works with primochill fittings other than primochill tube ? I'm only interested in clear stuff, and the primochill stuff is insanely expensive for just acrylic tube.... Not to mention its out of stock everywhere and ill probably be messing lots of it up while I'm learning how to do my first build


If you are in the US you can order 3/8x1/2 acrylic tube from supply companies like US Plastics or McMaster-Carr. You may even find some at a plastic company local to you and avoid the shipping charges which depending on how much you buy can cost more than the tubing itself. They ship in 6' sections only and it isn't cheap. Pretty much every else in the world besides the US would have their tube in metric sizes that wouldn't be compatible.

I've used the tube from McMaster-Carr and it works fine with Primochill's fittings. Unlike acrylic you get from Primochill or Monsoon that come individually protected in a plastic sleeve it's just acrylic tubes in a cardboard shipping tube so a common complaint when getting tube from an industrial / plastics supplier is the tubes tend to get a little scuffed up so you might expect that. I didn't really notice the tubes being scratched up that but I just used 18' from them for practice bending and a temporary 1st loop. Pretty sure if there were any minor scratches like that they would polish out with PlastX or similar.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Unlike acrylic you get from Primochill or Monsoon that come individually protected in a plastic sleeve it's just acrylic tubes in a cardboard shipping tube so a common complaint when getting tube from an industrial / plastics supplier is the tubes tend to get a little scuffed up so you might expect that. I didn't really notice the tubes being scratched up that but I just used 18' from them for practice bending and a temporary 1st loop. Pretty sure if there were any minor scratches like that they would polish out with PlastX or similar.


I tried going the mcmastercar way and the two 6' acrylic tubes were all scratched up from bouncing around the shipping tube. The shipping was really expensive and in the end I wasted my money. Just went and bought monsoon acrylic that was better packaged for shipping and all was well.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I ordered the mandrels for the set (however I'm still using my cutting block), because the weird bends are just too difficult to get w/o ruining tubes... But yeah I'll redo it when the waterblocks for the gtx980 classified come out.


----------



## emsj86

What is everyone using to cut petg tubing I have three options corded hack saw, PVC cutters and what I was thinking of using was my copper pipe cutters that you gradually tighten and twist. Or should I just buy a hack saw. My corded one I have metal blades for but afraid it will jump around too much


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What is everyone using to cut petg tubing I have three options corded hack saw, PVC cutters and what I was thinking of using was my copper pipe cutters that you gradually tighten and twist. Or should I just buy a hack saw. My corded one I have metal blades for but afraid it will jump around too much


Haven't tried PETG yet but plastic tubing cutters that spin as you tighten around the pipe are a bad idea with acrylic and I can't imagine you getting good results with a jig saw which is what I think you were describing. You'd be better off to go with a mini hack saw and some sort of small miter box that either you buy or make yourself. That, or get the Monsoon cutting kit which includes both.

FWIW I have the full Pro Monsoon kit that includes the heatgun, bending mandrels, measuring tools, and the cutting kit w/ saw and miter box. It's cutting kit got the job done for me rather well especially after I drilled a countersunk hole in the miter box's base to fasten it down to my cutting board, but this is what I've been using more recently. This is overkill.net afterall.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What is everyone using to cut petg tubing I have three options corded hack saw, PVC cutters and what I was thinking of using was my copper pipe cutters that you gradually tighten and twist. Or should I just buy a hack saw. My corded one I have metal blades for but afraid it will jump around too much


I use a simple hack saw to cut mine. As long as you don't try to force it through the tubing too much it cuts pretty easily.


----------



## emsj86

Yeh I just picked up a hack saw hand held. I have a cordless lowered Milwaukee one as well that I use at work that I will try out. I picked up the hand held just in case the cordless is too much and cracks it or jumps too much


----------



## dsmwookie

Jig saw worked fine for me with the right blade.

Here is my first go at acrylic.


----------



## emsj86

I ended up using my Milwaukee one handed cordless battery hacksaw I use at work with a metal blade and it works amazing so fast and cuts straight as long as you know hownto use one. This is my little hand made set up for bending and sanding


----------



## emsj86

finished ended up mostly free hand not perfect but I like it for now


----------



## XTwinyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> If you are in the US you can order 3/8x1/2 acrylic tube from supply companies like US Plastics or McMaster-Carr. You may even find some at a plastic company local to you and avoid the shipping charges which depending on how much you buy can cost more than the tubing itself. They ship in 6' sections only and it isn't cheap. Pretty much every else in the world besides the US would have their tube in metric sizes that wouldn't be compatible.
> 
> I've used the tube from McMaster-Carr and it works fine with Primochill's fittings. Unlike acrylic you get from Primochill or Monsoon that come individually protected in a plastic sleeve it's just acrylic tubes in a cardboard shipping tube so a common complaint when getting tube from an industrial / plastics supplier is the tubes tend to get a little scuffed up so you might expect that. I didn't really notice the tubes being scratched up that but I just used 18' from them for practice bending and a temporary 1st loop. Pretty sure if there were any minor scratches like that they would polish out with PlastX or similar.


Thanks ^^ I'm actually in the UK, The reason I ask is because its really hard to get a hold of primochill tube here in the UK currently, all the main water cooling dealers are out of stock, so unless you want to pay through the nose for it, from some obscure online shop, its pretty much just sit and wait until some becomes available D:

What is the difference between PMMA and PETG tube ? And are their any heat guns in particular you guys would recommend ? I saw a video of some guy that had a gun that sat on its back on a table, allowing him to bend without having to hold onto the gun, it looked really handy xD


----------



## aka13

You can go with any 30$ heatgut. You should pick one though that has air intake on its sides, so you can just place it on its back on the table without issues while bending.


----------



## ivoryg37

Im interested in getting the monsoon 13mm tubing mandrel. Will these still work with the bitspower 12mm tubing?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Im interested in getting the monsoon 13mm tubing. Will these still work with the bitspower 12mm tubing?


If you sand the end of the tube down by 1mm, then maybe.


----------



## ozzy1925

this is the end of my monsoon cutting kit


i need straight cut what tool should i use ?


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Im interested in getting the monsoon 13mm tubing. Will these still work with the bitspower 12mm tubing?


1/2" (13mm) Monsoon fittings will not work with 12mm Bitspower tubes, and 1/2" (13mm)Monsoon tubes will not work with 12mm Bitspower fittings. Monsoon is imperial, Bitspower is metric. Which doesn't mix.

I wish Monsoon/resellers would stop advertising imperial systems as metric. Only creates confusion. You might get lucky in the 5/8" vs 16 mm sizes (15.875 vs 16 mm), but it will probably be too loose for comfort most of the time. But for the 1/2" vs 12 mm size (12.7 vs 12 mm) there's no hope.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you sand the end of the tube down by 1mm, then maybe.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> 1/2" (13mm) Monsoon fittings will not work with 12mm Bitspower tubes, and 1/2" (13mm)Monsoon tubes will not work with 12mm Bitspower fittings. Monsoon is imperial, Bitspower is metric. Which doesn't mix.
> 
> I wish Monsoon/resellers would stop advertising imperial systems as metric. Only creates confusion. You might get lucky in the 5/8" vs 16 mm sizes (15.875 vs 16 mm), but it will probably be too loose for comfort most of the time. But for the 1/2" vs 12 mm size (12.7 vs 12 mm) there's no hope.


Sorry,I forgot to write mandrel when I was posting that lol. I was wondering if the monsoon 13mm bending mandrel will work with the bitspower 12mm tubing.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Sorry,I forgot to write mandrel when I was posting that lol. I was wondering if the monsoon 13mm bending mandrel will work with the bitspower 12mm tubing.


Yes, the Monsoon 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) bending kit works with either 1/2" or 12mm OD tube.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> this is the end of my monsoon cutting kit
> 
> 
> i need straight cut what tool should i use ?


Not sure how you managed to cut that one up that bad. I assume it's because it tends to move around so much while cutting. I drilled a countersunk hole in the bottom of my mandrel like that so I could screw it to my bending jig board and it worked great for me like that, but eventually I decided to go a bit overkill. This is what I'm using now. lol

I'm not really aware of any better made mini miter box for the purpose of cutting acrylic tubes than the monsoon one, but something like the first one here should work. Also see the same or similar here.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> this is the end of my monsoon cutting kit
> 
> 
> i need straight cut what tool should i use ?


Your putting too much pressure on the saw. Let the saw do the work and don't force it. Thats why that happens. You should focus and the back and forth movement instead of putting pressure down.

With that said you can probably use some metal 2 part epoxy to fill that offset line and then just let the saw work for you. You can also make a miter box out of wood or head down to your local hardware store to see if they have any pipe miter boxes in stock.


----------



## Nephalem

Question, is there any specific brand of hardline tubing that is preferred over others? I'm looking to do my first watercooling setup (in a few months) and figured I should go big or go home and go all out with Hard tubing. Any suggestions of which tubing I should get i.e. Brand, Diameter and fittings to go with it possibly?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nephalem*
> 
> Question, is there any specific brand of hardline tubing that is preferred over others? I'm looking to do my first watercooling setup (in a few months) and figured I should go big or go home and go all out with Hard tubing. Any suggestions of which tubing I should get i.e. Brand, Diameter and fittings to go with it possibly?


After having done things in my typical bass-ackwards fashion as I started learning how to do acrylic tubing over the past month my advice would be to use Bitspower Enhanced Multi-Link with Bitspower Crystal Link tubing, or use Primochill Rigid Revolvers with Primochill tubing.

I cannot recommend the Monsoon Hardline Fittings. They all use silver barbs. One of the designs even uses acrylic end caps you have to glue on.

I do recommend the Monsoon bending kit.

I went Monsoon 3/8ID 5/8OD tubing with 13mm/16mm Bitspower Enhanced Multi-Links and it works surprisingly well, but it's not as tight as I would like. It doesn't leak, but I'm switching out to Crystal Link tubing soon. The nice thing about the Monsoon tube/Bitspower fittings combo I used is that it just fits, no sanding. I *want* to be sanding though. I want it tight.


----------



## Nephalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> After having done things in my typical bass-ackwards fashion as I started learning how to do acrylic tubing over the past month my advice would be to use Bitspower Enhanced Multi-Link with Bitspower Crystal Link tubing, or use Primochill Rigid Revolvers with Primochill tubing.
> 
> I cannot recommend the Monsoon Hardline Fittings. They all use silver barbs. One of the designs even uses acrylic end caps you have to glue on.
> 
> I do recommend the Monsoon bending kit.
> 
> I went Monsoon 3/8ID 5/8OD tubing with 13mm/16mm Bitspower Enhanced Multi-Links and it works surprisingly well, but it's not as tight as I would like. It doesn't leak, but I'm switching out to Crystal Link tubing soon. The nice thing about the Monsoon tube/Bitspower fittings combo I used is that it just fits, no sanding. I *want* to be sanding though. I want it tight.


I can get the tubing here in Aus, which although I need to get my KPE blocks from the states, I'd rather get everything else for my coming upgrade (technically more of a sidegrade/downsize but eh) from the one spot and they don't have the Bitspower fittings. Now using logic I "should" be able to use these EK ones, because they're designed for 16mm but I just wanted to check here in case there is some miss match and they aren't actually 16mm and they're like 15.875mm rounded up for our metric system.


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nephalem*
> 
> Question, is there any specific brand of hardline tubing that is preferred over others? I'm looking to do my first watercooling setup (in a few months) and figured I should go big or go home and go all out with Hard tubing. Any suggestions of which tubing I should get i.e. Brand, Diameter and fittings to go with it possibly?


WHat that guy before me said, although 2 important points - any acryllic goes, if it fits your fittings. You can buy 13/10mm noname acryllic pipes and they propably do as good as branded. THe only question is about color - if you want your liquid uncolored and want colored pipes instead, you are pretty sure bound to buy primochill.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nephalem*
> 
> Question, is there any specific brand of hardline tubing that is preferred over others? I'm looking to do my first watercooling setup (in a few months) and figured I should go big or go home and go all out with Hard tubing. Any suggestions of which tubing I should get i.e. Brand, Diameter and fittings to go with it possibly?
> 
> 
> 
> WHat that guy before me said, although 2 important points - any acryllic goes, if it fits your fittings. *You can buy 13/10mm noname acryllic pipes and they propably do as good as branded.* THe only question is about color - if you want your liquid uncolored and want colored pipes instead, you are pretty sure bound to buy primochill.
Click to expand...

Lol...The only guy I know that has custom tube is E22,he has is own die for tube production which is why its clarity is exceptional and the reason I use it exclusively,the rest,including Primochill,buy in bulk from an OEM....

12mm tube is around in a variety of colours,you dont have to buy 'branded' tube.


----------



## aka13

I am confused, did I say something wrong?


----------



## WiSK

I think BNeg lol'd at the hidden irony in your first statement - "You can buy 13/10mm noname acryllic pipes and they propably do as good as branded" since the "branded" are actually "noname" before the water cooling companies put their stickers on the tubes and triple the price.

As for your second statement: the original suppliers of acrylic (du Pont, Evonik, ICI) have been making coloured extruded acrylic tubes in various sizes for over 50 years, so it's not at all like you are limited to Primochill.

Search for Perspex, Lucite, Acrylite, Plexiglas to widen your sources for acrylic products.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> *I think BNeg lol'd at the hidden irony in your first statement -* "You can buy 13/10mm noname acryllic pipes and they propably do as good as branded" since the "branded" are actually "noname" before the water cooling companies put their stickers on the tubes and triple the price.
> 
> As for your second statement: the original suppliers of acrylic (du Pont, Evonik, ICI) have been making coloured extruded acrylic tubes in various sizes for over 50 years, so it's not at all like you are limited to Primochill.
> 
> Search for Perspex, Lucite, Acrylite, Plexiglas to widen your sources for acrylic products.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Weird. I've searched and searched for a year or more now and haven't managed to find 'noname' colored acrylic tubing in 12mm or 1/2" OD size easy to find. Perhaps it's because I'm searching from a US IP address but almost all of the results I'm getting, pages and pages deep into google results, are US based companies and none of the US companies seem to have such a product, at least none of the largest plastics and industrial supply that sell online. Quite a few sell colored and frosted acrylic tube in large diameters, much larger than useful for watercooling.

I've never seen colored tube options mentioned in this thread before either, other than Primochill and Monsoon and more recently Bitspower, etc. The closest I recall was here with a UK link and their colored tube smallest size started at 19mm OD.


----------



## WiSK

Maybe it's hard to find as a consumer, but emailing suppliers rather than just seeing what they have listed in their shops then you might find more options.

Anyway, random link, from first page of a google search _extruded acrylic tube colored_ http://www.emcoplastics.com/materials/acrylic/acrylic-tube/colored-extruded-acrylic-tube/
Quote:


> Colored extruded acrylic tubes come in diameters that range from .250″ to 8.00″ in outside diameter. All tubes are highly polished and clear. Standard wall thicknesses of .125, .187, .250, .375, and .500 inches are available in most diameter tubes, but special walls are available on request. All stock acrylic tubing is manufactured in a nominal of 6 foot lengths.
> ...
> Give us your cut-to-size dimensions. We will precision-cut these plastics to your exact size. Additional sizes and colors available upon request.


----------



## ivoryg37

Just went to harbor freight and bought these for 40$. Hopefully they work good


----------



## armoredtaco66

At the suggestion of a user that has been very helpful, I've decided to bring my issue that I'm having to this thread. I've been under water for many years now, and this was my first adventure into acrylic. I ordered a large amount from US Plastic so that I would have a lot of extra to play with before I bent tubing for my loop. Recently, a little over a week after the install was said and done I noticed a couple beads of liquid on the outside of one of the tubes and immediately drained and stripped the loop. After inspection it was evident that it was not coming out of a fitting.

I wasn't able to get very clear pictures of all of the tubes, so I chose the most evident ones. Please note the one that broke in half happened during removal from the loop, but it was beading outside of the tube at that crack. It practically fell apart in my hands. Thankfully I avoided a potentially costly accident by keeping a close on on the tubing.


Spoiler: Pics









I had assumed that it was the glycol based coolant i was using that caused this. I've read mixed reviews about using glycol with acrylic since it reacts so terribly to alcohol, but had seen from many sources that they ran it for extended periods of time with no ill results. That is not the case, though. I inspected pieces of bent scrap tubing that never received fluid and some exhibit similar cracking along the tube. I apologize for the mediocre pictures but they were the best I could get with my phone.

I figured I'd take a crack at this annealing process that is mentioned in this thread, and it resulted in the pieces of scrap tubing i tested it on to become extremely warped and distorted. Likely as a result of my oven not producing the temperature I had chosen.

My question is what is causing this? Am I stressing the tube too much during bending? Perhaps I'm not being patient enough with heating up the tubing. My heat gun does 750 F and 1000 F, and I had been keeping it on the lower setting while keeping the tubing a good distance from the heat source. It would take about 5 minutes or so of warming the tube before it was in a 'noodly' state and able to be bent.

Any ideas to the cause would be fantastic. I have ordered more acrylic from McMaster-Carr, as the rest of what I have is already in use in a project not related to this loop. If it is a mistake that I'm making and not seeing I would love to resolve it. Acrylic looks so much nicer in a loop, and after all of these troubles I'd hate to be defeated and go back to my trusty LRT.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

The cracks being in that straight / unbent section are worrisome. Are you sure the tubing didn't have any stress cracks like that before you started working with it? If you have any left over have you inspected it?

Gotta admit I'm a bit stumped. Hopefully someone else here can help identify what the heck is going on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Maybe it's hard to find as a consumer, but emailing suppliers rather than just seeing what they have listed in their shops then you might find more options.
> 
> Anyway, random link, from first page of a google search _extruded acrylic tube colored_ http://www.emcoplastics.com/materials/acrylic/acrylic-tube/colored-extruded-acrylic-tube/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Colored extruded acrylic tubes come in diameters that range from .250″ to 8.00″ in outside diameter. All tubes are highly polished and clear. Standard wall thicknesses of .125, .187, .250, .375, and .500 inches are available in most diameter tubes, but special walls are available on request. All stock acrylic tubing is manufactured in a nominal of 6 foot lengths.
> ...
> Give us your cut-to-size dimensions. We will precision-cut these plastics to your exact size. Additional sizes and colors available upon request.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. I might check into it. That place doesn't show up in my search results for the same terms, at least not in the first few pages, but that's google for you tailoring everyone's search results based on a blend of location and previous searches and scouring your gmail and/or whatever else they use figure out everything they can about you in the name of improving your internet experience. Even still, when searching for pretty much anything I don't usually give much more than a passing glance at sites that don't list and sell their wares online.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Yes, the Monsoon 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) bending kit works with either 1/2" or 12mm OD tube.
> Not sure how you managed to cut that one up that bad. I assume it's because it tends to move around so much while cutting. I drilled a countersunk hole in the bottom of my mandrel like that so I could screw it to my bending jig board and it worked great for me like that, but eventually I decided to go a bit overkill. This is what I'm using now. lol
> 
> I'm not really aware of any better made mini miter box for the purpose of cutting acrylic tubes than the monsoon one, but something like the first one here should work. Also see the same or similar here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Your putting too much pressure on the saw. Let the saw do the work and don't force it. Thats why that happens. You should focus and the back and forth movement instead of putting pressure down.
> 
> With that said you can probably use some metal 2 part epoxy to fill that offset line and then just let the saw work for you. You can also make a miter box out of wood or head down to your local hardware store to see if they have any pipe miter boxes in stock.


i conected my mitter box to a vice and taped the 12mm tube with paper tape but still not getting straight cuts i think i better use one of the other tools thanks for the suggestions


----------



## armoredtaco66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> The cracks being in that straight / unbent section are worrisome. Are you sure the tubing didn't have any stress cracks like that before you started working with it? If you have any left over have you inspected it?


Only one piece of straight scrap has a crack in it, and it is a small crack about an inch long that looks similar and starts at where the tube was cut. Even some of the scrap pieces that have gentle bends exhibit this form of cracking. None of the raw tubing looked like this. I inspected all of it before use and it was in good shape.

I'm curious if it is a result of not heating enough length of the tube rather than the temperature or heating duration. I'd like to think I was rather generous with that, though.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armoredtaco66*
> 
> Only one piece of straight scrap has a crack in it, and it is a small crack about an inch long that looks similar and starts at where the tube was cut. Even some of the scrap pieces that have gentle bends exhibit this form of cracking. None of the raw tubing looked like this. I inspected all of it before use and it was in good shape.
> 
> I'm curious if it is a result of not heating enough length of the tube rather than the temperature or heating duration. I'd like to think I was rather generous with that, though.


Very curious. I'm suspicious of the tubing itself, but can describe your cutting process?


----------



## armoredtaco66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Very curious. I'm suspicious of the tubing itself, but can describe your cutting process?


I used a small miter box that I made, and a fine toothed saw. The edges of the tubing were finished with sandpaper. Only one piece of scrap was cracked at the cut. I was probably over zealous with the saw. The majority of the cracks are on or near the bends which leads me to believe I'm missing something in the technique.


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Heating too close / too hot causes bubbling and not heating a long enough length of tube evenly all around tends to cause wrinkling / ugly bends, but to get nice looking bends - no wrinkles & without bubbling - but instead what looks like stress fractures running lengthwise down the tube at the bends ... I think that's a new one, at least to me. Hopefully someone here in this thread has a clue what the deal is.

A search on Youtube for 'bending acrylic tubing' can be really helpful so you can actually watch how others are doing it. If you haven't done that already perhaps you'll see something others have been doing different.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bending+acrylic+tubing

All I can think of.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armoredtaco66*
> 
> The majority of the cracks are on or near the bends which leads me to believe I'm missing something in the technique.


Yeah... I think there may be something specific about that tubing that went wrong. The bends look fine. It's obviously not an issue with the coolant. It also didn't crank right away but gradually. Perhaps the tubing froze in shipping and after heating and cooling again stress weakened.


----------



## armoredtaco66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Yeah... I think there may be something specific about that tubing that went wrong. The bends look fine. It's obviously not an issue with the coolant. It also didn't crank right away but gradually. Perhaps the tubing froze in shipping and after heating and cooling again stress weakened.


That is plausible since US Plastic ships out of northern Ohio. I'd also like to mention that when I attempted to, I believe, anneal some of the scraps that I had in the oven they distorted very heavily, but in a uniform direction that wasn't due to gravity.

I know for a fact that I can rule out damage from chemicals since tubing that was bent but not in the loop was affected, but this occurring so readily during my first foray into rigid has me really on edge about using the stuff. I ordered some acrylic from a different manufacturer and I will give that a go.

Here was the build with the previous tubing that failed. Thankfully I caught it before anything major could occur. I run a D5 Vario on around it's halfway setting. I seriously doubt it, but could pressure have caused this? You can see the loop there, plus two 3x120 rads in the top.


Spoiler: Pic


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armoredtaco66*
> 
> I figured I'd take a crack at this annealing process that is mentioned in this thread, and it resulted in the pieces of scrap tubing i tested it on to become extremely warped and distorted. Likely as a result of my oven not producing the temperature I had chosen.


Annealing fixes stress caused by machining, it won't heal a fracture

But in general when annealing, some ground rules.

The oven must be clean.
Switch off fan-assisted unless your oven has very accurate temperature control.
Upper limit is 80C, but it depends on the composition of the acrylic, so go down to 75C or 70C if you are having issues.
You must let the acrylic cool naturally after switching off the oven, it can take 2 hours
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Thanks for that. I might check into it. That place doesn't show up in my search results for the same terms, at least not in the first few pages, but that's google for you tailoring everyone's search results based on a blend of location and previous searches and scouring your gmail and/or whatever else they use figure out everything they can about you in the name of improving your internet experience. Even still, when searching for pretty much anything I don't usually give much more than a passing glance at sites that don't list and sell their wares online.


Maybe because the market for acrylic tubing before it recently became popular for watercooling was people building display cabinets, aquariums and doing DIY lighting and such. There probably is a very tiny demand for 3/8"-1/2" colored tubing without our niche hobby driving that. I guess this is why it's hard to find as a "standard" product in webshops. But I would expect that most acrylic manufacturers could make it easily with only a minor change to their extrusion machines (e.g. die and dye hah).

Incidentally my local acrylic guy orders directly from Evonik (trade name Plexiglas) and they have quite high minimum orders for custom stuff. He showed me their storage and there was masses of unsold stock and scrap pieces that he's unable to shift on the website. This just because they've tried to make another customer happy but had to order 10x the quantity from the supplier. He lets people pick out from the storage whatever random scrap they want and sells by weight. I got a bunch of sheets and tubing for 10 euros that if I had ordered if from the site would have been 50 euros. Anecdote I know, but point is sometimes it pays to ask rather than just surf the webshops.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armoredtaco66*
> 
> I used a small miter box that I made, and a fine toothed saw. The edges of the tubing were finished with sandpaper. Only one piece of scrap was cracked at the cut. I was probably over zealous with the saw. The majority of the cracks are on or near the bends which leads me to believe I'm missing something in the technique.


One tip I got from... someone reliable somewhere on this forum, cant remember, is that after you do the bend, let it cool, then reheat it again. The theory behind this is that during the bending process, stress fractures may begin that can't be detected, reheating supposedly helps with this issue. The only drawback is that the bend will want to undo itself with the carbon insert tending to force it back straight. I do actually almost always double heat my bends because it allows me to round them and attend to folds or bumps, as I tend to rush my bends a bit.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> One tip I got from... someone reliable somewhere on this forum, cant remember, is that after you do the bend, let it cool, then reheat it again. The theory behind this is that during the bending process, stress fractures may begin that can't be detected, reheating supposedly helps with this issue.


That tip may work by accident, but not reliably. What you actually need to do to fix stress fractures is anneal the acrylic. Unlike metal annealing, it's more like glass annealing. The heat needs to be applied uniformly for a long time and *under the softening temperature*, and then let cool very slowly. You can't be that accurate with a heatgun, but can do it in an oven, as I mentioned in my post just above yours


----------



## electro2u

I think it was ZytheEKS. I was thinking it was more something about local reheating strengthening the stressed covalent bonds that haven't actually gotten to the point of separation yet but may reach micro-fracture after several heating cycles. This really is an odd issue though and I suspect it is a function of the machining process.


----------



## aka13

What do you mean by saying "oven"? A literal oven? Like, you put the pipe in, warm it up at whole length, and afterwards bend it?

DOesn't it make straight lines impossibe?


----------



## Domiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Incidentally my local acrylic guy orders directly from Evonik (trade name Plexiglas) and they have quite high minimum orders for custom stuff. He showed me their storage and there was masses of unsold stock and scrap pieces that he's unable to shift on the website. This just because they've tried to make another customer happy but had to order 10x the quantity from the supplier. He lets people pick out from the storage whatever random scrap they want and sells by weight. I got a bunch of sheets and tubing for 10 euros that if I had ordered if from the site would have been 50 euros. Anecdote I know, but point is sometimes it pays to ask rather than just surf the webshops.


I'd ordered there before, completely forgotten about him selling scrap. Great way of seeing whether ideas for a build may work or not.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> What do you mean by saying "oven"? A literal oven? Like, you put the pipe in, warm it up at whole length, and afterwards bend it?
> 
> DOesn't it make straight lines impossibe?


He means oven, like in your kitchen, but after the tube is already bent, and not at high enough heat to soften the acrylic.

It relieves the stresses introduced into the tube from the bending process.

D.


----------



## armoredtaco66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Annealing fixes stress caused by machining, it won't heal a fracture
> 
> But in general when annealing, some ground rules.
> 
> The oven must be clean.
> Switch off fan-assisted unless your oven has very accurate temperature control.
> Upper limit is 80C, but it depends on the composition of the acrylic, so go down to 75C or 70C if you are having issues.
> You must let the acrylic cool naturally after switching off the oven, it can take 2 hours


These are the rules that I had followed on some undamaged scrap in a rather good electric oven. They started to warp after 20 minutes or so at ~76C. I'll bend another piece of scrap and try that at a slightly lower temperature for sciences sake.

I've been thinking on the problem and perhaps something may have been iffy with this batch from US Plastic. Like I had said one piece cracked in this fashion at the cut with no bends, and other pieces that were bent and unused in the loop had cracking near the bends. I ordered some from McMaster and an looking forward to getting to play with it.

I'll know it is something that I'm doing wrong if I have similar issues with this acrylic. I hope it doesn't come to that, but despite the frustrations it has still been an adventure working with acrylic.


----------



## Ithanul

My first go at acrylic.


----------



## emsj86

Not. Bad. I slaw ays start with the tough bends first so when the easier bends come if I don't have a lot of room it won't be that bad. My toughest bends our from the back port in the top rad by the heatsinks. Now I should have gone with more 90sdapters because having to bend 3 90s in a small area over a short run is hard to get to look nice.


----------



## Ceadderman

Can't wait to get mine done. It's too bad monsoon doesn't have but two acrylic clamping fittings other than their chain gun fittings and their free centers. I like the look of the free center fittings, but well I'd like something a bit different to use with my Monsoon hardline kit.









~Ceadder


----------



## wholeeo

Spent about $180 on acrylic tubing, primochill fittings, and the tools needed to convert my watercooling over to acrylic this past weekend. What a nightmare. I purchased the Primochill bending kit which comes with a hollow silicone rod which you'd think would work with their tubing...wrong. The thing is horrible. The first piece of tubing I worked with the silicone rod would not slide through. Soap, sanding it down, etc did not help, meanwhile another tube I had grabbed it went in smooth like butter.

So now I think all is good until I start getting kinks in my bends due to the silicone tube being hollow. I got so frustrated I returned the remaining untouched acrylic tubing, purchased new regular tubing and just put my system back to the way it was previously.

I've kept the fittings as I plan to give it another go whenever I get the acrylic itch again. This time I'll purchase tubing from Mcmaster as well as the silicone rod that's been recommended by IT Diva.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> Spent about $180 on acrylic tubing, primochill fittings, and the tools needed to convert my watercooling over to acrylic this past weekend. What a nightmare. I purchased the Primochill bending kit which comes with a hollow silicone rod which you'd think would work with their tubing...wrong. The thing is horrible. The first piece of tubing I worked with the silicone rod would not slide through. Soap, sanding it down, etc did not help, meanwhile another tube I had grabbed it went in smooth like butter.
> 
> So now I think all is good until I start getting kinks in my bends due to the silicone tube being hollow. I got so frustrated I returned the remaining untouched acrylic tubing, purchased new regular tubing and just put my system back to the way it was previously.
> 
> I've kept the fittings as I plan to give it another go whenever I get the acrylic itch again. This time I'll purchase tubing from Mcmaster as well as the silicone rod that's been recommended by IT Diva.


I'm glad I got my silicone tube from mcmaster. It slides in and out of my bitspower crystal links without any soap or water at all and fits perfectly


----------



## emsj86

The monsoon silcone fit right in my primochill petg. Now the primochill rod sucked. It has a hole going through it which makes kinking easier on tight turns and it was hard to slide in


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wholeeo*
> 
> So now I think all is good until I start getting kinks in my bends due to the silicone tube being hollow.


The hollowness of the supporting tube is not the reason for kinking. It's more usually because you need to heat up a larger area of the acrylic.


----------



## emsj86

I agree but it doesn't help. With the monsoon if it's not hot enough I can feel the tension more and know to heat it up more. I just don't get the reason for the hollow to begin with I guess


----------



## wholeeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The hollowness of the supporting tube is not the reason for kinking. It's more usually because you need to heat up a larger area of the acrylic.


Could be a factor as well as it being my first time with acrylic. Though I've looked around online and several people have complained about the hollow rod and kinks. I'll be sure to get an overkill amount of tubing next time to expirement and become an expert with.


----------



## lowfat

The hollow bending cords are WAY more forgiving. Like night and day difference IMO. If you are kinking on a bend the tubing isn't hot enough or you arent heating up a wide enough patch.


----------



## GaMbi2004

I agree with lowfat.. the hollowness is not to blame.. If you do it right, you can bend the tube WITHOUT an insert.. the insert helps a lot though.


----------



## wholeeo

Well if that's the case I'm pretty eager to try again. I'll play with some left over tubing I have tonight and see what I can come up with. Question, how do you guys accomplish two 90 degree angles about an inch or two apart from another? This is for the outlet on my cpu block going into an inlet on my gpu block. The direction would be out of cpu block to the point where it's parallel with the gpu, then left and down to gpu block.

Also, do you guys more or less freestyle with the bends or ever heat tubing in place to get the bend and measurements right?


----------



## Ithanul

Got to agree. I just finish up my first acrylic loop. You definitely get kinks if the tube not hot enough. I had the monsoon kit and the silicon insert worked like a charm on the tubing I got from TAP Plastic. Just had to make sure to heat the tube up real good. Best way to know, put your bare finger on it. If it feels like you may get a burn from the heat then you are good to go.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat*
> 
> The hollow bending cords are WAY more forgiving. Like night and day difference IMO. If you are kinking on a bend the tubing isn't hot enough or you arent heating up a wide enough patch.


This..for me anyway.
I use hollow tubes over solid rods.


----------



## tahoward

Using 12mm acrylic or pteg pipe is a CLR of 1D possible without excessive distortion?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tahoward*
> 
> Using 12mm acrylic or pteg pipe is a CLR of 1D possible without excessive distortion?


Hmmm... center line radius








1D means a 12mm CLR... I don't know how to picture that.

It can take 180 degree bends really tight. I am inclined to say yes but I don't understand the engineering math behind it.


----------



## Ceadderman

"Monsoon Silicon insert is Fail!"

First off... there will ALWAYS be a variance in the dimensions of the tubing you are going to work with. No matter if it's Monsoon or some other brand. Sometimes the tubing simply is too thick. If you measure it and find that this is the case, well it's on you to work out an appropriate fix. Do you not own a rat tail file?(solid colors) Do you not have a heat gun and a tapered wooden dowel to work the opening slightly? There *are* ways of dealing with issues when you actually take the time.

I seriously do not see how *any* specific brand of silicon insert will miraculously fix any issue it confronts. I don't care what brand it is.

It's like the chap that broke one not too far back. He basically locked it into the tubing and then "it was the silicon insert's fault" nevermind all thought of applied science had gone out the window.









People need to simply stop blaming the tool for failing. Indeed, sometimes it is a faulty tool. No question. But what do y'all expect? It's silicon. It's not rebar, it's not going to hold up to impossible standards/usage.

Seriously though, the next time it doesn't fit, check the thickness of the tubing and go from there. If it's a bit too snug and hard to work with try putting it in the fridge and then use as you would naturally. Just not too long and don't freeze it. That's another way to break them.









If it's simply a case of not fitting into the opening, try a piece of doweling and chamfer the end of the doweling to create a flared end in the tube. This way the silicon has no choice but to go into it. If the tubing is simply too small for even that? Well I would hope that you inspect the packaging and check to see if you got the wrong tubing from your supplier. But that's just me I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## Biggu

my second time time doing acrylic, first time doing EK 12/16mm




IMO its actually alot of fun when you get the hang of it!


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> my second time time doing acrylic, first time doing EK 12/16mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO its actually alot of fun when you get the hang of it!


The longer, more open, runs look nice, but the short cramped runs at the CPU/VRMs look like a 5' tall ballerina with size 13 feet.

I would have had to see how it looked with 2 sizes of tubing, the smaller where appropriate, or stayed with 12/10 all around if split sizing didn't look good.

Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Is that EVGA block's back channel Out specific or can that block be routed in either direction?

My thought being that the SB block could be better routed to the back channel In, front Channel to CPU In, CPU Out to VRM block Front and Back VRM routed to the Radiator. The reason I say this is due to the slightly off kilted GPU - VRM tubing. Would look much cleaner with direct 90* bends than a 90*- 45* rotation - 90* to 90*. Straighter is always better imho. The SB Out could be routed 90*/90* around it to the back of the GPU block.









*Edit* just noticed that the CPU routes out to the 360. Since Coolant averages the same in a running loop for overall temp, I would suggest that the CPU needn't skip the VRM channel but rather be the intermittent step in the loop. Won't affect the temp of the VRM much if at all.







...

...Oi!








GPU is the first leg... so front could be In from the Res and then each tube runs should be made accordingly. Looks solid otherwise.









~Ceadder


----------



## Soxism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Edit: There is also the option to use these buggers from Rocket Science. They are essentially Bitspower's C47 fittings for 1/2" tubing (1/2" = 12.7mm).


I cant recommend these enough. The guy basically makes them himself (well factory made) designed etc. They are amazing quality, have purchase quite a few myself, and the hold on them is astronomical (Just watching his youtube Videos)


----------



## guitarhero23

When websites write 12x10 is it the same as 10x12 just reversing the ID and OD order? It confuses the crap outta me (newbie trying to learn). How many standard sizes exist? I see 12mm (when they write it as just 12mm does that mean 12mmx10mm? AKA EK HDC fittings saying they are for 12mm), 16mm 5/8" etc.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> When websites write 12x10 is it the same as 10x12 just reversing the ID and OD order? It confuses the crap outta me (newbie trying to learn). How many standard sizes exist? I see 12mm (when they write it as just 12mm does that mean 12mmx10mm? AKA EK HDC fittings saying they are for 12mm), 16mm 5/8" etc.


That's exactly what it means.

you have to remember that MOST everything is made overseas in non English Speaking countries. And if you've ever taken a foreign language, most every language except English is Right to Left not Left to Right.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's exactly what it means.
> 
> you have to remember that MOST everything is made overseas in non English Speaking countries. And if you've ever taken a foreign language, most every language except English is Right to Left not Left to Right.


OT break!
I was with you until you started talking about foreign languages.
So we have some Eastern/Asiatic languages that are thriving that read right to left: Hebrew, Arabic, Urdu, Sindhi, Persian, Kurdish etc...
Then there are all the languages that read left to right:
English, Spanish, French, German, Dutch, Italian, modern Mandarin Chinese, modern Japanese, Turkish, Swahili...
Both lists are far from complete obviously but saying most languages read right to left is like saying most people are women.

Edit: added "modern"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That's exactly what it means.
> 
> you have to remember that MOST everything is made overseas in non English Speaking countries. And if you've ever taken a foreign language, most every language except English is Right to Left not Left to Right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OT break!
> I was with you until you started talking about foreign languages.
> So we have some Eastern/Asiatic languages that are thriving that read right to left: Hebrew, Arabic, Urdu, Sindhi, Persian, Kurdish etc...
> Then there are all the languages that read left to right:
> English, Spanish, French, German, Dutch, Italian, modern Mandarin Chinese, modern Japanese, Turkish, Swahili...
> Both lists are far from complete obviously but saying most languages read right to left is like saying most people are women.
> 
> Edit: added "modern"
Click to expand...

my bad... yes there are still some that read Left to Right as well.









But as you're aware they read the way they do, due to the country of fabrication... or so I believe that's how it is.









~Ceadder


----------



## Biggu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The longer, more open, runs look nice, but the short cramped runs at the CPU/VRMs look like a 5' tall ballerina with size 13 feet.
> 
> I would have had to see how it looked with 2 sizes of tubing, the smaller where appropriate, or stayed with 12/10 all around if split sizing didn't look good.
> 
> Darlene


Might just be a each their own, I considered the 12//10 but it looked way to small in the case. im also not a big fan of doing the angled fittings with the extensions to make up for the height while using an acrylic link.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is that EVGA block's back channel Out specific or can that block be routed in either direction?
> 
> My thought being that the SB block could be better routed to the back channel In, front Channel to CPU In, CPU Out to VRM block Front and Back VRM routed to the Radiator. The reason I say this is due to the slightly off kilted GPU - VRM tubing. Would look much cleaner with direct 90* bends than a 90*- 45* rotation - 90* to 90*. Straighter is always better imho. The SB Out could be routed 90*/90* around it to the back of the GPU block.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit* just noticed that the CPU routes out to the 360. Since Coolant averages the same in a running loop for overall temp, I would suggest that the CPU needn't skip the VRM channel but rather be the intermittent step in the loop. Won't affect the temp of the VRM much if at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> ...Oi!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPU is the first leg... so front could be In from the Res and then each tube runs should be made accordingly. Looks solid otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The EVGA block has 3 ins and 3 out ports so its very versatile in what is ran.

I think you may be looking at the loop backwards.

my loop flow is as follows res->d5 dual pumps-> quad ut60(under midplate-> triple ut60->cpu-> moffset-> NB-> GPU->Res.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> "Monsoon Silicon insert is Fail!"
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> First off... there will ALWAYS be a variance in the dimensions of the tubing you are going to work with. No matter if it's Monsoon or some other brand. Sometimes the tubing simply is too thick. If you measure it and find that this is the case, well it's on you to work out an appropriate fix. Do you not own a rat tail file?(solid colors) Do you not have a heat gun and a tapered wooden dowel to work the opening slightly? There *are* ways of dealing with issues when you actually take the time.
> 
> I seriously do not see how *any* specific brand of silicon insert will miraculously fix any issue it confronts. I don't care what brand it is.
> 
> It's like the chap that broke one not too far back. He basically locked it into the tubing and then "it was the silicon insert's fault" nevermind all thought of applied science had gone out the window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *People need to simply stop blaming the tool for failing*. Indeed, sometimes it is a faulty tool. No question. But what do y'all expect? It's silicon. It's not rebar, it's not going to hold up to impossible standards/usage.
> 
> Seriously though, the next time it doesn't fit, check the thickness of the tubing and go from there. If it's a bit too snug and hard to work with try putting it in the fridge and then use as you would naturally. Just not too long and don't freeze it. That's another way to break them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> If it's simply a case of not fitting into the opening, try a piece of doweling and chamfer the end of the doweling to create a flared end in the tube. This way the silicon has no choice but to go into it. If the tubing is simply too small for even that? Well I would hope that you inspect the packaging and check to see if you got the wrong tubing from your supplier. But that's just me I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Pure crazy talk my good man. Tool blaming is what forums are all about.

"Wahhh, why isn't this advanced hobby just easy!"


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> my bad... yes there are still some that read Left to Right as well.
> 
> But as you're aware they read the way they do, due to the country of fabrication... or so I believe that's how it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Chinese, if that's who you mean, read top-to-bottom

Writing directions according to Wikipedia



Writing directions according to Ceadderman


----------



## Unicr0nhunter




----------



## Hefner

It's not bending, so kinda off-topic. Has anyone tried cutting a tube at a 45° angle and weld them back together? I think if done right aesthetics of this would be even better than bending.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> It's not bending, so kinda off-topic. Has anyone tried cutting a tube at a 45° angle and weld them back together? I think if done right aesthetics of this would be even better than bending.




I needed a very very short connection. Here used C48s and cut 2 pieces at 55 degree angle, but was missing a tiny part in the middle.

 

This one I used superglue to glue and that's why it looks ugly. But it's been in my loop for two years now and never an issue with it.

 

I have a bought a wicking bonding solvent since then (advised by BNeg) and can make clean joins. Want to borrow it?


----------



## Hefner

Damn that awesome







.

Before I start I need to figure out a way to cleanly cut the tubing at a perfect 45° angle. I was thinking about having a cutting mandrel milled similar to the monsoon one. Any advice in that regard?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Damn that awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Before I start I need to figure out a way to cleanly cut the tubing at a perfect 45° angle. I was thinking about having a cutting mandrel milled similar to the monsoon one. Any advice in that regard?


It doesn't need to be perfect 45°. Think back to mathematics classes: any cut across two parallel lines the two angles make 90°. So you can cut at 48° and the other angle will be 42° and make up 90° when you join them together.

What it does need to be is perfectly flat and quite smooth. Use 240 grit then 600 grit.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If they are not the same angle then the tube profile won't match iirc.....

Looks good tho WiSK,maybe something to expand upon?


----------



## aka13

AFAIK when I did modelling stuff, this "glue" you use for acrylic degrades the acryllic itself a few mm around the place where you used it, no?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> AFAIK when I did modelling stuff, this "glue" you use for acrylic degrades the acryllic itself a few mm around the place where you used it, no?


Polystyrene cement is not the same glue as the wicking solvent used,it fuses the material rather than being a glue


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Polystyrene cement is not the same glue as the wicking solvent used,it fuses the material rather than being a glue


Why don't you use Cyanoacrylate in that case?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Polystyrene cement is not the same glue as the wicking solvent used,it fuses the material rather than being a glue
> 
> 
> 
> Why don't you use Cyanoacrylate in that case?
Click to expand...

Frosting.

Its still a glue too. Solvent welding is literally that,welding. There is no interface barrier/join.


----------



## aka13

Pretty smart, will remember that info. Thx.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> Pretty smart, will remember that info. Thx.


I built a res for my S3 using wicking solvent.

Initial render



CNC'd parts. A requirement of this method as there is no gap fill property,glues have this ability.



Assembly.



And the finished article.


----------



## Nephalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Biggu*
> 
> my second time time doing acrylic, first time doing EK 12/16mm
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IMO its actually alot of fun when you get the hang of it!


Didn't notice it the first time but that's a 900D isn't it? Those things are bloody huge, I'm downsizing mine for a H440. Still looks great man, nice work


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It doesn't need to be perfect 45°. Think back to mathematics classes: any cut across two parallel lines the two angles make 90°. So you can cut at 48° and the other angle will be 42° and make up 90° when you join them together.
> 
> What it does need to be is perfectly flat and quite smooth. Use 240 grit then 600 grit.


Of course I know that.









It's for the sake of consistency, which is such a huge factor in regards to aesthetics. For example, when you have an 180 (from a sidewards perspective) and bend 1 looks slightly different than bend 2, it already looks "off". The first and foremost solution to this is to get the bending mandrels, however, I'm an SFF enthusiast and the bend radius of the monsoon mandrels is simply too large for my builds so I ended up having to "freehand" it anyways.

In a lazy attempt to fix this I bought a large amount of bitspower fittings. I figured it would work since bitspower has such a large selection of options, however, the fittings are limited to 5mm intervals and things still didn't line up properly and it was still looking a bit "off".

So I think I'm going with the cut & weld approach next time I dissemble my loop. For the sake of perfectionism!


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Frosting.
> 
> Its still a glue too. Solvent welding is literally that,welding. There is no interface barrier/join.


Yea, this is the way its done in most plastic model making "glues", solvents that melt the plastic and create a permanent bond


----------



## DNMock

Acrylic tubes came in today.

Any specific type of blade that works better than other. I'm assuming the higher teeth count the better. Also, better off using a hand saw, circular saw, jigsaw, dremel, grinder blade, rotary saw, or what here? I'm assuming my table saw would be good since it can make a nice perfect 90* cut but it spins so fast I'm worried it would just rip the pipe apart rather than give a smooth cut. Worked great on my sheets of acrylic but a pipe is a little different.


----------



## emsj86

Used my hand held cordless hacksaw. Work great and took only seconds to cut. I just used a thin metal blade for it. I tried using a hand held one (non powered ) and found it would Jump when getting started to much. Dremel would work as well. I think you'll be fine using what you used for your sheets. It cuts rather easy


----------



## Vindicare

hello guys.

i'm going to start to use rigid tubing for the first time.

i bought some ek rigid tubing 16/12mm

i also bought a monsoon silicon insert but hes 13mm, i just realised that monsoon tubing is 16/13.

will this insert fit the ek tubing?

also the insert is rather small just 30cm where can i buy alonger one?

i also read the great tip to use R/C fuel line do you guys know if there is 12mm silicon fuel lines?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> hello guys.
> 
> i'm going to start to use rigid tubing for the first time.
> 
> i bought some ek rigid tubing 16/12mm
> 
> i also bought a monsoon silicon insert but hes 13mm, i just realised that monsoon tubing is 16/13.
> 
> will this insert fit the ek tubing?
> 
> also the insert is rather small just 30cm where can i buy alonger one?
> 
> i also read the great tip to use R/C fuel line do you guys know if there is 12mm silicon fuel lines?


Not really. It will fit in but it wont hold the tube in shape because it's too small.

These Monsoon insert will fit your tubing and is sold by the foot in continuous lengths:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-1-2-id-silicon-bending-insert-1-foot-for-5-8-od-tube.html


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vindicare*
> 
> hello guys.
> 
> i'm going to start to use rigid tubing for the first time.
> 
> i bought some ek rigid tubing 16/12mm
> 
> i also bought a monsoon silicon insert but hes 13mm, i just realised that monsoon tubing is 16/13.
> 
> will this insert fit the ek tubing?
> 
> also the insert is rather small just 30cm where can i buy alonger one?
> 
> i also read the great tip to use R/C fuel line do you guys know if there is 12mm silicon fuel lines?


Head up to Autozone with one of your tubes and just start trying until you find one that fits right. The bigger monsoon tubes I just got in look to be similar in size to a normal vehicle fuel line in size.

Edited, put the wrong website down, fixed now:

Or call this place up: http://www.ag-power.com/ They will definitely have a fuel line that will fit right.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Frosting.
> 
> Its still a glue too. Solvent welding is literally that,welding. There is no interface barrier/join.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, this is the way its done in most plastic model making "glues", solvents that melt the plastic and create a permanent bond
Click to expand...

There is still an interface layer of glue between the pieces,this is not the case with solvent welding.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> There is still an interface layer of glue between the pieces,this is not the case with solvent welding.


Like Weld-On? Doesn't it completely chemically bond the two surfaces?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Like Weld-On? Doesn't it completely chemically bond the two surfaces?


Yep, it makes the surface of the acrylic briefly into liquid and then the solvent evaporates, leaving behind the acrylic only. BNeg is saying it's unlike the model making glue that Owan mentioned because that actually contains some viscous substance along with the solvent. The stuff BNeg recommends is like water thin, there is a type of Weld-On that is similar.


----------



## jsco

just wanted to say thanks to this community and to the people in this thread for all the helpful advice here. i bent pipes for the first time and although it was frustrating at first, i eventually figured it out and now i feel like i can get what i want without ruining too many pieces in the process.







i would have gotten nowhere without reading everyone's advice before and during the learning process.

a few specific things that helped me improve:

DON'T use water on the silicone tube before bending. insert and bend dry. water boils at a lower point than the ideal bending temperature of acrylic (~150C), so any water droplets moving around in the pipe will cause uneven patches of cooling. if you can't get the silicone tube out after it cools, just dip the whole assembly in a bowl of soapy water. the water will wick right in and you can slip the tube out easily.
always take the silicone tube out between each successive bend and reinsert it loosely before the next bend. leaving it in with one end held by the previous bend will cause tension before and during the next bend, which will really wrinkle up your pipe.
mark off an inch on each side of the area to be bent with a pencil, and heat that whole region up. i was going nuts trying to figure out why my bends were kinking up so badly, and the answer was that i wasn't heating a wide enough area.


----------



## ivoryg37

Anyone have any tips on cutting the tubing? I bought this miter box and it doesn't seem to be working for me. I always get crooked cuts and end up having to try to sand the tubing to be even. I think the blade might not be fine enough. It does get caught occasionally making me have to lift the blade up. Might be why I end up with crooked cuts.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BREQKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also will it hurt my loop if I get silicon grease in my loop? I use bitspower fitting and Ive read that I should lube the orings so Ive been using this on the inside of all the fittings. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DCVZL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## electro2u

It serm3d to me when I started gripping my saw less the cuts went easier. There's going to be some sanding involved unless you use a better tool like an electric chop saw. I usually cut my tubing a bit longer for that and just because it's better to have too long than too short.


----------



## ivoryg37

Thanks for the info. I will try it later today. I was having trouble trying to control my grip on the tube and the saw. I may try a desk vice later today to hold the tube for me slightly. Also ill keep in mind about cutting it longer than needed. Its my first attempt at working with acrylic tubing. Doesnt help that I also chose to do it in a Hadron case so the space requires some tight bends lol

Should I still use the reamer after I sand the tubing flat? Im using 2000 grit sandpaper.


----------



## Biggu

Yes, you want the outside to be beveled to help the tube slide into the fitting and not rip the O-rings.


----------



## electro2u

I almost always have to sand down the edges and not just debur them. I just set a 300-400 grit sand paper piece down on a flat surface and put the end of the tube down and go in circles. Its remarkable how fast the stuff comes off so you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I will try it later today. I was having trouble trying to control my grip on the tube and the saw. I may try a desk vice later today to hold the tube for me slightly. Also ill keep in mind about cutting it longer than needed. Its my first attempt at working with acrylic tubing. Doesnt help that I also chose to do it in a Hadron case so the space requires some tight bends lol
> 
> Should I still use the reamer after I sand the tubing flat? Im using 2000 grit sandpaper.


I use 400 grit. Goes fast. The reamer is great afterwards.


----------



## gponcho

Completed my first ridged build


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Anyone have any tips on cutting the tubing? I bought this miter box and it doesn't seem to be working for me. I always get crooked cuts and end up having to try to sand the tubing to be even. I think the blade might not be fine enough. It does get caught occasionally making me have to lift the blade up. Might be why I end up with crooked cuts.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BREQKC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Also will it hurt my loop if I get silicon grease in my loop? I use bitspower fitting and Ive read that I should lube the orings so Ive been using this on the inside of all the fittings. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DCVZL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Get the Monsoon miter box kit. It will fit up to 1/2" tubing and if you're industrious enough to drill two mounting points into the base channel can be quite stable. Otherwise you'll have to lock it down with a vice. Monoon Hardline Pro Cutting Kit 

The one that you have linked would be a PitA to keep the tubing stable during cutting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gponcho*
> 
> Completed my first ridged build
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is sharp and clean looking.









~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Well, since it's being discussed again, especially with regards to making straight (or at angles) clean cuts....


Spoiler: ...this is what I use to cut my acrylic tubing:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A diamond rim cutoff blade in an angle grinder makes a nice straight cut. It's probably definitely more than a bit overkill but that's what I've been using mounted in a klutch angle grinder holder which helps hold the tube and the grinder straight. I already had more than one cheap angle grinder laying around when I saw the holder on sale at Northern Tool for ~$20 I set one of my grinders up just for cutting acrylic is all I use it for now.
> 
> 
> 
> Someone else here a while back had mentioned they were using a mini chop saw with a diamond blade to cut acrylic they got at Harbor Freight iirc with good results and I looked into that at the time but they no longer carried that little model and the larger ones cost more so I let go of the idea until I saw that holder on sale that was the first thing I thought of.
> 
> Originally I just used a cheap run-o-the-mill abrasive metal cutoff wheel in the grinder which I already had a bunch of, and that works alright. You have to go slow and it sort of melts its way through it fuzzing up the ends but you can just knock off the fuzzies with a fingertip and it leaves a nice straight edge, every bit as straight or easy to work with as any cut I made with a mini hack saw, and you can then clean it up nice with a inside/outside reamer if you are going to be using push-fit fittings.
> 
> Eventually I shelled out another ~$10 or so for the diamond rim blade and it makes a bit cleaner cut, though still does produce some of the fuzzies that can just be knocked off. It also works rather well to shave just a millimeter or so off of the end of a tube at a time by holding the grinder in the down position with it off and sliding the end of the tube right up next to / lightly touching the blade and raising the grinder so that it lightly scrapes past the tube on the way up before turning it on and making a cut on just the very edge (most anyone who has ever cut trim with a compound miter saw would be familiar with this technique for cutting a piece just a tad long and creeping up on the right length). Doing that saves a lot of time shortening the tube just a tad that I otherwise used to have to accomplish by sanding it down to size.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, since it's being discussed again, especially with regards to making straight (or at angles) clean cuts....


I think this would be ideal for @Hefner


----------



## B NEGATIVE

If the cut is not straight,hold the saw with your index finger gun style along the frame and let the saw do the work,dont force it. You can then just use a engineers file to square everything off.

Or buy chop saw like Uni.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Well, since it's being discussed again, especially with regards to making straight (or at angles) clean cuts....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: ...this is what I use to cut my acrylic tubing:
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> A diamond rim cutoff blade in an angle grinder makes a nice straight cut. It's probably definitely more than a bit overkill but that's what I've been using mounted in a klutch angle grinder holder which helps hold the tube and the grinder straight. I already had more than one cheap angle grinder laying around when I saw the holder on sale at Northern Tool for ~$20 I set one of my grinders up just for cutting acrylic is all I use it for now.
> 
> 
> 
> Someone else here a while back had mentioned they were using a mini chop saw with a diamond blade to cut acrylic they got at Harbor Freight iirc with good results and I looked into that at the time but they no longer carried that little model and the larger ones cost more so I let go of the idea until I saw that holder on sale that was the first thing I thought of.
> 
> Originally I just used a cheap run-o-the-mill abrasive metal cutoff wheel in the grinder which I already had a bunch of, and that works alright. You have to go slow and it sort of melts its way through it fuzzing up the ends but you can just knock off the fuzzies with a fingertip and it leaves a nice straight edge, every bit as straight or easy to work with as any cut I made with a mini hack saw, and you can then clean it up nice with a inside/outside reamer if you are going to be using push-fit fittings.
> 
> Eventually I shelled out another ~$10 or so for the diamond rim blade and it makes a bit cleaner cut, though still does produce some of the fuzzies that can just be knocked off. It also works rather well to shave just a millimeter or so off of the end of a tube at a time by holding the grinder in the down position with it off and sliding the end of the tube right up next to / lightly touching the blade and raising the grinder so that it lightly scrapes past the tube on the way up before turning it on and making a cut on just the very edge (most anyone who has ever cut trim with a compound miter saw would be familiar with this technique for cutting a piece just a tad long and creeping up on the right length). Doing that saves a lot of time shortening the tube just a tad that I otherwise used to have to accomplish by sanding it down to size.
Click to expand...

I would love to have something like that. But that's a pretty big expense just to cut tubing.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> and let the saw do the work,dont force it.


^This

You want to focus on the back and forth motion and not trying to force it down. (also good advice for other aspects of life







)


----------



## ivoryg37

I have respect for anyone who does an acrylic build. It took me 3 hours just to do one bend. The first time I got it just perfect. I needed to cut just a bit off. Somehow the tube cracked from my cutting. I had to throw it away. The second time I accidentally bubbled the tube because I took my eye off of it for a split second. Finally I got this bend to work and its still not guaranteed to leak since I still have to do the rest lol. Hopefully there is no leak. Never realize how hard my first time would be. I was mad the entire time lol


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I have respect for anyone who does an acrylic build. It took me 3 hours just to do one bend. The first time I got it just perfect. I needed to cut just a bit off. Somehow the tube cracked from my cutting. I had to throw it away. The second time I accidentally bubbled the tube because I took my eye off of it for a split second. Finally I got this bend to work and its still not guaranteed to leak since I still have to do the rest lol. Hopefully there is no leak. Never realize how hard my first time would be. I was mad the entire time lol


Patience and take you time don't let it make you mad!! Not in a race and the more you do it the easier it is!!!


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Patience and take you time don't let it make you mad!! Not in a race and the more you do it the easier it is!!!


agreed. here's my pile of mistakes on the way to getting 4 tubes bent...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I have respect for anyone who does an acrylic build. It took me 3 hours just to do one bend. The first time I got it just perfect. I needed to cut just a bit off. Somehow the tube cracked from my cutting. I had to throw it away. The second time I accidentally bubbled the tube because I took my eye off of it for a split second. Finally I got this bend to work and its still not guaranteed to leak since I still have to do the rest lol. Hopefully there is no leak. Never realize how hard my first time would be. I was mad the entire time lol


I feel your pain bud.
On the plus side, that tube you have done looks very very nice.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Patience and take you time don't let it make you mad!! Not in a race and the more you do it the easier it is!!!


haha its fine now. I've finally gotten a hang of my saw. I figured out the perfect speed where the blade just melts through the pipe like butter. Also once I get the tubing in place, I get a feeling of accomplishment. The only thing I have to get better with is bending the tube now. I've been using a 3D printed 180degree mandrel and a roll of tape.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:605762


----------



## ozzy1925

for the guys who wants straight cuts i saw this device its around $30:


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> for the guys who wants straight cuts i saw this device its around $30:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


m8 you have to tell WHAT you did get, not really helpful looking through ebay for a picture


----------



## Nephalem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> m8 you have to tell WHAT you did get, not really helpful looking through ebay for a picture


According to the label it is a "Drillmaster Mini Cut-off Saw"
So there you go, unless of course you were trying to be funny, in which case it wasn't


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aka13*
> 
> m8 you have to tell WHAT you did get, not really helpful looking through ebay for a picture


not really,i was having trouble to get straight cuts and found this guy used this for his build
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showpost.php?p=4108320&postcount=37
looks cheaper and easier according to monsoon cutting tool which costs $25

edit:i searched many online stores in my country but there is none


----------



## aka13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nephalem*
> 
> According to the label it is a "Drillmaster Mini Cut-off Saw"
> So there you go, unless of course you were trying to be funny, in which case it wasn't


I was literally too stupid to try to read the label, thx


----------



## seross69

I think dremenal makes a cut off saw like that!! Maybe wrong but think i have seen!!

I checked and yes they do not the same but the do make a small cut off saw


----------



## emsj86

Yea I get mad at myself or already the first time I was because it would be perfect than when I would cut it down I would cut it just short cause it to be use less. I still need to work on my tight bends like the one from gpu to the rad. I wanted it to bend than go at before going to the rad but the radius was so tight


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> for the guys who wants straight cuts i saw this device its around $30:


I wish I saw this before I bought my $10 saw. I would have gladly put out extra 20$ for that. Oh well maybe in the future if I do another acrylic build. Ive just been using a piece of glads I use for sanding. I just sand all my cuts straight so far its going pretty well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Yea I get mad at myself or already the first time I was because it would be perfect than when I would cut it down I would cut it just short cause it to be use less. I still need to work on my tight bends like the one from gpu to the rad. I wanted it to bend than go at before going to the rad but the radius was so tight


Looks nice! Yeah, the only problem I have with bending is the heatgun part. I like to heat it until the tube starts to bend on its own weight but the problem with this is I have to hold it super straight or it starts bending before im ready tgen becomes sort of wavy


----------



## emsj86

Yea that's what happened to me on that bend. I heat it up and being on such a tight bend to bend I lose the straight part of it. And when I tried bending using a cutting board to lay the flat part down it would distort the tubing alittle. I know I can do it just have to figure alittle better way


----------



## WarlockSix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> for the guys who wants straight cuts i saw this device its around $30:


You can find the saw here:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-61900.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Do they have an adapter like that for a Dremel?









~Ceadder


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarlockSix*
> 
> You can find the saw here:
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-61900.html


Nice! Does someone know a shop in Europe where I can find something similar? Importing it is a bit much.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hefner*
> 
> Nice! Does someone know a shop in Europe where I can find something similar? Importing it is a bit much.


I don't think you can come close to matching the price of the Harbour Express version in Europe.

Proxxon KG 50 is the kind of thing you need. But it's made in Germany, so you pay 80 euros or more, and that's a lot of money for cutting a dozen tubes.


----------



## emsj86

I use this. Note I had it allready from work but you can find it on eBay around 50 and can be used for modding your case in general. Works like a charm since it is one handed unlike most other hack saws.


----------



## ivoryg37

One of my friends got a 3D printer for christmas so I had to try it. I just need to get a 45 and 90degree designedto print. However, I think the 180 is good enough for 90s too. I need to find something heavy enough to screw it down to. Makes it harder having to hold down the mandrel and bend.


----------



## emsj86

I have mandrels and I have Carpenters ruler and a tape measure but just couldn't get my measurements down very well. What do you guys use to plan and measure out bends (specifically multi bends)


----------



## jsco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> What do you guys use to plan and measure out bends (specifically multi bends)


piece(s) of wood with lines drawn on them plus some chunks of screwed down pvc pipe.


----------



## Ceadderman

For the 3D printed mandrel and needing a stable surface...

Get yourself a 2.5' piece of plywood/particle board and secure your mandrel to it and then clamp it to your table with large jaw pipe clamps. Works perfectly well for a cheap solution to a get a drillable surface to secure your mandrels.

~Ceadder


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I don't think you can come close to matching the price of the Harbour Express version in Europe.
> 
> Proxxon KG 50 is the kind of thing you need. But it's made in Germany, so you pay 80 euros or more, and that's a lot of money for cutting a dozen tubes.


Hahaha what a coincidence. I just bought this!







The guy gave me a nice discount since I also bought a diamond blade for the KG50 and a dremel. My modding life just got so much easier









It indeed was pricey compared to the 'Murican version, which does give it a sour aftertaste, but not entirely unexpected since it was the same story with finding a heat-gun. I'm just going to have to accept that our tools will never be as cheap as they are on the other side of the ocean


----------



## Praz

Hello

I use this for cutting most all plastic tubing. The only finishing required is hitting the edge with a flame if it is going to be exposed.


----------



## electro2u




----------



## Ceadderman

Me waaaaaaaaannnnz!









~Ceadder


----------



## ivoryg37

Leak testing right now. No leak as of yet so I'm pretty happy. The only tubing that I'm worried about is the inlet for the reservoir. I don't think I bend it correctly so it looks like its about to pop out. I might have cut the tube too short for that one. Once its done leak testing, I will probably drain it so that I can put Mayhem Pastel in it


----------



## electro2u

The bends are a little noodly but it beats the crap out of soft discolored tubing. I love the large diameter look, too. Good work


----------



## ivoryg37

Yeah its a little noodly since I freehanded most of them. I didnt get a mandrel until yesterday which was used on the inlet for the reservoir. Its the only one that isnt as noodly. Its my first attempt. I didnt know how much tubing to buy for rigid so I end up barely making the cut. Maybe once I can order some more tubing. I may give it another go. Ill leave it as is for now since funds are low hahah. Doesnt help that I chose the worst case to work on. The spacing is so tight it made some of the tubing hard to do.I may move my rig into my Air 240 case in the future


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah definitely get some more tubing and it will look much nicer. Not bad though considering it was bent free handed.









~Ceadder


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Leak testing right now. No leak as of yet so I'm pretty happy. The only tubing that I'm worried about is the inlet for the reservoir. I don't think I bend it correctly so it looks like its about to pop out. I might have cut the tube too short for that one. Once its done leak testing, I will probably drain it so that I can put Mayhem Pastel in it


A couple of those look like they want to pop out! Scary! Is it possible to fix the one at the top going from the rad to the res by simply taking a little off the radiator end? Looks like it's being bent towards the right.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> A couple of those look like they want to pop out! Scary! Is it possible to fix the one at the top going from the rad to the res by simply taking a little off the radiator end? Looks like it's being bent towards the right.


Yeah it looks that way but I pulled on both side with full force. It wouldnt come out but I dont know im probably wait and order some more tubing before running the system. I didnt get any sort of mandrel until Monday so most of them were freehanded. I hate that PPCs and Frozencpu charge crazy shipping for small stuff so I dont normally order until I get alot of items needed so im waiting. For example, a backplate cost like 12$ to ship from them via usps. Ive shipped heavier items than that for around 7-8 priority. It was my first time so I didnt know how much tubing to order since they are sold differently than soft tubing which im more familiar with


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Yeah it looks that way but I pulled on both side with full force. It wouldnt come out but I dont know im probably wait and order some more tubing before running the system. I didnt get any sort of mandrel until Monday so most of them were freehanded. I hate that PPCs and Frozencpu charge crazy shipping for small stuff so I dont normally order until I get alot of items needed so im waiting. For example, a backplate cost like 12$ to ship from them via usps. Ive shipped heavier items than that for around 7-8 priority. It was my first time so I didnt know how much tubing to order since they are sold differently than soft tubing which im more familiar with


Yea same way with shipping. Just ordered some tube and 1 bitspower fitting (I've never bent acrylic before so I want to see how well I do with it before decideding if I really want to go full liquid in the future) but realized I forgot to add a silicon bending pipe to my order. Unfortunately they shipped mine out before I could have them add it. Would cost me like 4x the cost of the pipe to ship just that. Darn! (My fault though).


----------



## ivoryg37

Just took my loop apart for the time being until I get some more tubing. This acrylic tube business is really eating at my pockets lol


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Yea same way with shipping. Just ordered some tube and 1 bitspower fitting (I've never bent acrylic before so I want to see how well I do with it before decideding if I really want to go full liquid in the future) but realized I forgot to add a silicon bending pipe to my order. Unfortunately they shipped mine out before I could have them add it. Would cost me like 4x the cost of the pipe to ship just that. Darn! (My fault though).


Anything small (under 13oz) can be shipped from frozen CPU for 4$ first class. I do it all the time and it always gets to me in SA, TX in 2 days.


----------



## ivoryg37

I decided to reuse some of my tubing. I took the tube from the res to inlet on the reservoir to do my GPU . Its looks better 90 degree wise. I just need to do the GPU to CPU and the res to reservoir over and I will be pretty pleased for my first attempt.


----------



## GaMbi2004

that 2nd 90 degree looks MUCH better! good thinking re using some of the old scraps!


----------



## guitarhero23

Is that res itself tilting left? Am I going crazy and seeing things?


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Is that res itself tilting left? Am I going crazy and seeing things?


Yeah its tilting left since I haven't tighten everything up yet. I gave it some slack so that I can slide the tubing in and out easier without cracking anything since I'm still working on the loop. If you look at the picture on the previous page. You can still see the rivet still sticking out lol. I didn't rivet it down yet, I just put the rivet in to hold the reservoir holder for the meantime lol

EDIT: With every bend I do, the better it becomes! This is making acrylic much more enjoyable. I just to get one of those mini bench saw now. The hacksaw I'm using isn't cutting it at all. Its already becoming dull but I guess thats what you get for $10


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Yeah its tilting left since I haven't tighten everything up yet. I gave it some slack so that I can slide the tubing in and out easier without cracking anything since I'm still working on the loop. If you look at the picture on the previous page. You can still see the rivet still sticking out lol. I didn't rivet it down yet, I just put the rivet in to hold the reservoir holder for the meantime lol
> 
> EDIT: With every bend I do, the better it becomes! This is making acrylic much more enjoyable. I just to get one of those mini bench saw now. The hacksaw I'm using isn't cutting it at all. Its already becoming dull but I guess thats what you get for $10


Nice! This is why I plan to order A LOT of extra when I do my first build. I'm a perfectionist so i'll need plenty of mess-ups before I get good enough to be as perfect as I desire.


----------



## guitarhero23

Anyone know a local store that might carry Acrylic bending piping to insert into the hard acrylic?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Anyone know a local store that might carry Acrylic bending piping to insert into the hard acrylic?


Local to where? You didn't fill out your location in your profile.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Local to where? You didn't fill out your location in your profile.


Ah yes, United States specifically CT but U.S. is fine.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Local to where? You didn't fill out your location in your profile.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah yes, United States specifically CT but U.S. is fine.
Click to expand...

All the major WC suppliers carry inserts..or just buy silicone rod with a 9.5mm OD


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All the major WC suppliers carry inserts..or just buy silicone rod with a 9.5mm OD


Pretty much this.

Here is the 3/8" (9.5mm) one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-3-8-id-silicon-bending-insert-1-foot-for-1-2-od-tube.html
Here is the 1/2" (12.7mm) one: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-1-2-id-silicon-bending-insert-1-foot-for-5-8-od-tube.html

Some people prefer the 3/8" HOLLOW bending insert from Primochill better: http://www.performance-pcs.com/primochilll-3-8-id-rigid-tube-silicon-bending-insert-1-foot-for-1-2-od-tube.html


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

I find the o-ring cord sizes suggested by Darlene (IT Diva) are MUCH better / easier to use than the cords available from Monsoon or Primochill.

9mm o-ring cord for an insert for Primochill or Monsoon's 3/8x1/2" acrylic tubing ($1.41 per ft in 3' or 10' lengths) :
http://www.mcmaster.com/#9679k27/=vlg0af

3/8" o-ring cord for EK or Bitspower's 10x12mm tubing ($1.67 per ft in 3' or 10' lengths) :
http://www.mcmaster.com/#96505k27/=vlg10t

Plus shipping of course unless you have a McMaster-Carr near you for local pickup.


----------



## guitarhero23

Ahh sorry to mislead, earlier I had wrote that I had been bummed because I forgot to add it to my order at performance-pcs.com and by the time I remembered, the shipment had JUST gone out, didn't know if any hobby stores or "local" hardware etc. I just didn't want to pay for shipping for JUST that item which would be less than the shipping haha.


----------



## ivoryg37

Finally redid my loop. No leak yets so I'm hoping I will be able to boot it up soon. No more noodly tubing from what I can tell.


----------



## guitarhero23

Better!! Res to Rad on left is perfect! How long did it take?


----------



## ivoryg37

The first time took me about 2-3 hrs and it came out noodly. The second attempt took me maybe 30 minutes once I got the cutting and heating down. I figure out why my bends were coming out so noodly. I was heating the tubing wrong. Ive read that you should heat more of the tubing to prevent kinking but I wasn't aware this was only for 180 bends lol. Once I figure out to just heat one spot for 90 degree through watching a youtube video it became quicker and easier lol.


----------



## electro2u

Massive improvement. Much respect.


----------



## jleslie246

After about 14 months I noticed a leak and found this!



Check your bends every now and then. Luckily no damaged occurred. I noticed a half dollar size puddle on top of my PSU


----------



## electro2u

Scary like Ebola. Is that Petg?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Scary like Ebola. Is that Petg?


Probably not.


----------



## emsj86

I have to ask why don't people like the petg or use it as much. I use it and find it bends very easy and is clear. That and it's more durable if anything was to happen to your case


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have to ask why don't people like the petg or use it as much. I use it and find it bends very easy and is clear. That and it's more durable if anything was to happen to your case


It's been discussed here quite a bit. If you search this thread you'd see discussion surrounding some of the properties of PETG that differentiate it from acrylic. PETG is slightly hygroscopic (absorbs water) which is the property of flexible tubing that allows some water to evaporate from your loop and makes it susceptible to staining. PETG is also not UV resistant, so the thought was that it may be prone to yellowing or becoming brittle or ... ? Also, even though it seems more durable, example the hammer test done by modzoo, it's been argued that in ways that it matters for use in a loop it's actually not as strong as acrylic (or something to that effect) and it's lower deformation temp which makes it easier to work with bending might be more problematic than acrylic if there was a failure in your loop causing a component to overheat.

All that said, most of that discussion took place when PETG was pretty new to watercooling. Now that it has been around a bit I haven't really seen any examples of those being a real concern. A few who have been running it with red and uv dyes and coolants for months now and have said that they haven't noticed any staining (yet). There was one example mentioned here in this thread posted on another forum of a cpu (iirc) overheating that purportedly melted the petg causing a failure of the tube, but it's been a while back now and I'm fuzzy on the details. I seem to recall it may have been enough heat to have caused an issue with any sort of tubing, but not 100% positive now.


----------



## Hefner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have to ask why don't people like the petg or use it as much. I use it and find it bends very easy and is clear. That and it's more durable if anything was to happen to your case


It's pointless. If anything were to happen to your build that would cause acrylic tubing to break, I can guarantee that your hardware will break as well. Why do people so desperately want more tubing strength when that tubing is surrounded by fragile hardware? Just handle your build with care. The strength of acrylic is more than plenty considering the application. So why would anyone wanna use PETG in a scenario where the added strength is not needed whilst considering that it is hygroscopic, not UV resistant and melts at a lower temperature?

Also, PETG is not as "glass-like" as acrylic tubing.


----------



## lowfat

Only reason I continue to use acrylic is because I still have a lot of it left. When I run out I definitely will be switching to PETG.


----------



## emsj86

Never said I wanted my tube to be strong. I was more just using examples of what people have wrote before. I was more just seeing why more people don't try petg. I'm not expert but both seem as good. I went petg mainly because 4 lengths of pc petg was 10 dollars where as acrylic by pc was almost double. @hefner to be honest and you probably agree the difference between them isn't much. Like the con that petg is not as glass like, where as I'm looking at my petg tube now and is clear in person to me even looks like glass when my white leds reflect off it. Both our great options and most of the cons for both in my eyes one and million type situations like for example the acrylic breaking


----------



## Ceadderman

I think that stronger CAN be better. Depending on how you do it, you can all but lock your GPU in stable enough to keep them from sagging and keep it from being a visual blight. Imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

I use my tube to make my gpu nice and straight. Set a plus of rigid. I really want to do the chrome tubing I've see. On a build. I have the tubing benders and cutters for it. I have to a of copper from my job but so t like the copper look


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's been discussed here quite a bit. If you search this thread you'd see discussion surrounding some of the properties of PETG that differentiate it from acrylic. PETG is slightly hygroscopic (absorbs water) which is the property of flexible tubing that allows some water to evaporate from your loop and makes it susceptible to staining. PETG is also not UV resistant, so the thought was that it may be prone to yellowing or becoming brittle or ... ? Also, even though it seems more durable, example the hammer test done by modzoo, it's been argued that in ways that it matters for use in a loop it's actually not as strong as acrylic (or something to that effect) and it's lower deformation temp which makes it easier to work with bending might be more problematic than acrylic if there was a failure in your loop causing a component to overheat.
> 
> All that said, most of that discussion took place when PETG was pretty new to watercooling. Now that it has been around a bit I haven't really seen any examples of those being a real concern. A few who have been running it with red and uv dyes and coolants for months now and have said that they haven't noticed any staining (yet). There was one example mentioned here in this thread posted on another forum of a cpu (iirc) overheating that purportedly melted the petg causing a failure of the tube, but it's been a while back now and I'm fuzzy on the details. I seem to recall it may have been enough heat to have caused an issue with any sort of tubing, but not 100% positive now.


Yea, not to rehash an old, tired argument, but IMO none of those "flaws" in PETG have ever been adequately tested or ever proven to be an issue. In fact, I did a little bit of research (quoted below from a nother thread) that may even indicate that the "conventional wisdom" on PETG isn't even correct... but then again, I'm not a polymers expert. You'd think that if PETG was a problem, issues would be more widespread now that its been on the market for a little while.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> So I keep seeing a lot of conflicting information based on anecdotal or uncited info in forums (i.e. "PETG is more water permeable than Acrylic", or , "PETG is stronger than acrylic"), so its nice to see some people at least posting some actual numbers, even if they're tough to digest without any kind of context. So I've been looking at various numbers, and found these from McMaster re: PETG and extruded acrylic (link)
> 
> PETG
> Tensile strength (PSI): 7100-10250
> Impact Strength (ft-lbs/in): 1.8
> water absorption (%): 0.13-0.2
> Density (lbs/in^3): 0.046
> Thermal Expansion (in/in/F): 3.8e-05
> 
> Acrylic (extruded)
> Tensile strength (PSI): 8100-11030
> Impact Strength (ft-lbs/in): 0.3-0.7
> water absorption (%): 0.2-0.4
> Density (lbs/in^3): 0.043
> Thermal Expansion (in/in/F): 3.0-4.0e-05
> 
> I'm not going to say that McMaster is necessarily an authoritative reference grade source for these numbers, but what I'm seeing here seems to contradict at least some of the conventional wisdom on the forums. First and foremost is the water absorption values, which are the same or actually lower for PETG than Acrylic. My knowledge of product packaging actually backs this up, as PET is used in a lot of beverage packaging specifically because of its good moisture barrier properties (usually in conjunction with PVOH as its oxygen permeability is high). As far as tensile strength goes, my impression is that they are functionally equivalent... you can't sell me that a 1000 PSI difference is meaningful when the quoted range for each of those resins is 3000 PSI. Impact strength is obviously higher for PETG (aka the mod zoo hammer test), but we should understand thats not a realistic test unless you're worried about dropping your tubes on the ground when installing them or something....
> 
> Whats not covered here that I'm actually concerned about? Is PETG's lower working temp an actual issue in an application? so far I've seen no evidence other than anecdotal tales of melted tubes and the operating temps should be way lower than the glass transition temps, but the point about a pump failure seems valid (even though my expectation is that you'd hit shutdown temps on the cores way before any tubes would melt). My other concern is resistance to creep. Those floppy water bottles everyone likes to bring up as evidence of water permeation probably have more to do with creep than water escaping. My instinct would say that compared to thin wall blowmolded bottles, 1/16" walled PETG tubing would have much less of an issue, but I don't know that for a fact.
> 
> I might try to speak to some of the packaging engineers at work to see if they have any insights into this one


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> It's been discussed here quite a bit. If you search this thread you'd see discussion surrounding some of the properties of PETG that differentiate it from acrylic. PETG is slightly hygroscopic (absorbs water) which is the property of flexible tubing that allows some water to evaporate from your loop and makes it susceptible to staining. PETG is also not UV resistant, so the thought was that it may be prone to yellowing or becoming brittle or ... ? Also, even though it seems more durable, example the hammer test done by modzoo, it's been argued that in ways that it matters for use in a loop it's actually not as strong as acrylic (or something to that effect) and it's lower deformation temp which makes it easier to work with bending might be more problematic than acrylic if there was a failure in your loop causing a component to overheat.
> 
> All that said, most of that discussion took place when PETG was pretty new to watercooling. Now that it has been around a bit I haven't really seen any examples of those being a real concern. A few who have been running it with red and uv dyes and coolants for months now and have said that they haven't noticed any staining (yet). There was one example mentioned here in this thread posted on another forum of a cpu (iirc) overheating that purportedly melted the petg causing a failure of the tube, but it's been a while back now and I'm fuzzy on the details. I seem to recall it may have been enough heat to have caused an issue with any sort of tubing, but not 100% positive now.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, not to rehash an old, tired argument, but IMO none of those "flaws" in PETG have ever been adequately tested or ever proven to be an issue. In fact, I did a little bit of research (quoted below from a nother thread) that may even indicate that the "conventional wisdom" on PETG isn't even correct... but then again, I'm not a polymers expert. *You'd think that if PETG was a problem, issues would be more widespread now that its been on the market for a little while*.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> So I keep seeing a lot of conflicting information based on anecdotal or uncited info in forums (i.e. "PETG is more water permeable than Acrylic", or , "PETG is stronger than acrylic"), so its nice to see some people at least posting some actual numbers, even if they're tough to digest without any kind of context. So I've been looking at various numbers, and found these from McMaster re: PETG and extruded acrylic (link)
> 
> PETG
> Tensile strength (PSI): 7100-10250
> Impact Strength (ft-lbs/in): 1.8
> water absorption (%): 0.13-0.2
> Density (lbs/in^3): 0.046
> Thermal Expansion (in/in/F): 3.8e-05
> 
> Acrylic (extruded)
> Tensile strength (PSI): 8100-11030
> Impact Strength (ft-lbs/in): 0.3-0.7
> water absorption (%): 0.2-0.4
> Density (lbs/in^3): 0.043
> Thermal Expansion (in/in/F): 3.0-4.0e-05
> 
> I'm not going to say that McMaster is necessarily an authoritative reference grade source for these numbers, but what I'm seeing here seems to contradict at least some of the conventional wisdom on the forums. First and foremost is the water absorption values, which are the same or actually lower for PETG than Acrylic. My knowledge of product packaging actually backs this up, as PET is used in a lot of beverage packaging specifically because of its good moisture barrier properties (usually in conjunction with PVOH as its oxygen permeability is high). As far as tensile strength goes, my impression is that they are functionally equivalent... you can't sell me that a 1000 PSI difference is meaningful when the quoted range for each of those resins is 3000 PSI. Impact strength is obviously higher for PETG (aka the mod zoo hammer test), but we should understand thats not a realistic test unless you're worried about dropping your tubes on the ground when installing them or something....
> 
> Whats not covered here that I'm actually concerned about? Is PETG's lower working temp an actual issue in an application? so far I've seen no evidence other than anecdotal tales of melted tubes and the operating temps should be way lower than the glass transition temps, but the point about a pump failure seems valid (even though my expectation is that you'd hit shutdown temps on the cores way before any tubes would melt). My other concern is resistance to creep. Those floppy water bottles everyone likes to bring up as evidence of water permeation probably have more to do with creep than water escaping. My instinct would say that compared to thin wall blowmolded bottles, 1/16" walled PETG tubing would have much less of an issue, but I don't know that for a fact.
> 
> I might try to speak to some of the packaging engineers at work to see if they have any insights into this one
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

That depends on uptake rate,only 1 manufacturer sells it and they are not held in high regard.
Its good that you are doing research into it,post your results here.

Please bear in mind,PET and PETG are different,equating the performance/qualities of one with the other is not correct.PET's primary market is packaging for soft drinks, bottled water, fruit-based beverages and iced teas. PETG is chiefly utilized in food, medical and electronic packaging.


----------



## jleslie246

So why did mine break after 14 months use? Its acrylic. Should I have gone with PETG?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> So why did mine break after 14 months use? Its acrylic. Should I have gone with PETG?


Now I won't say either acrylic or petg would have been better but don't confuse your instance with real evidence vs anecdotal evidence. Maybe when it was bent the specific way you did it caused instability in materials, maybe you just got unlucky, maybe the bends to tight. I mean it might be the case petg wouldn't have broken but it seems just as likely another piece of acrylic could have performed better. I don't think enough evidence is here that one would have been better than the other.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> After about 14 months I noticed a leak and found this!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check your bends every now and then. Luckily no damaged occurred. I noticed a half dollar size puddle on top of my PSU


So it DID break then.

I thought that maybe your seal had come undone.









~Ceadder


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So it DID break then.
> 
> I thought that maybe your seal had come undone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yep it cracked. After I removed it the pipe just fell in two. I've never worried about the seals leaking. The primochill fittings are awesome. You can actually look into the fitting and see that the oring has expanded and sealed around the pipe.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> I have mandrels and I have Carpenters ruler and a tape measure but just couldn't get my measurements down very well. What do you guys use to plan and measure out bends (specifically multi bends)


The way i saw the monsoon youtube guy (could've been primochill now that i think about it) doing it was using a chunk of wood as his work table and putting a piece of paper? (looked like it anyway) down over it and writing his measurements out with a pencil. The measuring device is something that came in the primochill kit apparently, it was two clear rulers with the typical holes in them you see on school rulers, but they give you a bag of wing-nuts so you can bolt them to each other at a 90 degree angle etc.. to allow horizontal + vertical measurement at the same time. He would place the 0mm sides near each other and put the 0 mark right in the middle of the fittings to measure the bend angle and then place the rulers down onto the paper then make pencil marks where the lines for the measurements he took are. Then he would place his mandrel right in that space so he could bend it around to the marks he made.


----------



## gdubc

^It's Monsoons videos. They are all linked in the op and show how he measures and uses the rulers/mandrels.


----------



## Turbz

The monsoon measuring kit is good for measuring multi dimensional bends as you get a few different rulers and 90/45deg attachments so you can model your entire bend. I use the same method as Geno from monsoon, a piece of scrap mdf with paper, screw the mandrels into the board and draw my measurements around them. Makes it easier to get it right first time but still takes time, patience and practice.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> The monsoon measuring kit is good for measuring multi dimensional bends as you get a few different rulers and 90/45deg attachments so you can model your entire bend. I use the same method as Geno from monsoon, a piece of scrap mdf with paper, screw the mandrels into the board and draw my measurements around them. Makes it easier to get it right first time but still takes time, patience and practice.


Yeah it's hard work getting it right, especially if you're doing multi-plane bending. Which is why i'm doing all straight in my new build. Going with the new enhanced multi-link rigid compression fittings bitspower came out with along with 45 and 90 degree bitspower black sparkle adapters so i can use the E22/crystal link 12mm OD tubing without having to bend anything. i'm probably going to do soft pvc from my res down to my pump in the basement of my 900d using standard bitspower compressions, then go with the crystal link acrylic + bitspower multilink compressions to go straight up from the pump to my EK terminal bridge on my 2 x gtx970's, then put two 45 degree adapters to go straight from the terminal to my cpu, two more 45's between my cpu and rad for another straight acrylic run, then lastly two 90 degrees for a straight run from the rad to the top of my reservoir to finish the loop.

And even doing all straight runs like that will be kind of difficult since i don't have the money to buy all 110mm/80mm/160mm etc.. pre-measured crystal link tubing, so i'm just getting two or three lengths of the 1000mm/39 inch crystal link tubes since they're only $3.99 on PPCS while E22 is $4.99 for 500mm and primochill/monsoon is $20 for a 4 pack of 24 inch tubes. Then i'll just buy a tubing reamer and i think my father has a hacksaw somewhere lying around since he's a plumbing/heating contracter. I wonder if there's any difference between standard hacksaws and the ones in like the EK/monsoon acrylic cutting kits. The monsoon one at least "claims" to have special teeth designed for acrylic but i'm not so sure it'd make much difference.


----------



## vegarhed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Yeah it's hard work getting it right, especially if you're doing multi-plane bending. Which is why i'm doing all straight in my new build. *Going with the new enhanced multi-link rigid compression fittings bitspower came out with along with 45 and 90 degree bitspower black sparkle adapters so i can use the E22/crystal link 12mm OD tubing without having to bend anything.* i'm probably going to do soft pvc from my res down to my pump in the basement of my 900d using standard bitspower compressions, then go with the crystal link acrylic + bitspower multilink compressions to go straight up from the pump to my EK terminal bridge on my 2 x gtx970's, then put two 45 degree adapters to go straight from the terminal to my cpu, two more 45's between my cpu and rad for another straight acrylic run, then lastly two 90 degrees for a straight run from the rad to the top of my reservoir to finish the loop.
> 
> *Snip*


Have you given these puppies a thought? Come in 90 and 45 deg versions. Maybe even 60 and 30 deg.



Or these G1/4" versions



Your solution will of course work if you already have the rotaries you wanna reuse. But people seem to overlook these. IMO they look much sleeker than straight compression + adapters.


----------



## electro2u

Doc to Marty: "Where we're going we don't need rotaries."


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Doc to Marty: "Where we're going we don't need rotaries."













~Ceadder


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I wonder if there's any difference between standard hacksaws and the ones in like the EK/monsoon acrylic cutting kits. The monsoon one at least "claims" to have special teeth designed for acrylic but i'm not so sure it'd make much difference.


It comes with two blades that are for cutting plastic but they get stuck easily. Using a junior hacksaw and monsoon mitre box without it fastened to something is a pain in the arse. You really need a vice to hold the mitre box and even then it's still not ideal. I'm thinking about trying my dremel in my vice and cutting that way.

It's so critical that you have perfectly flat tube ends with monsoon hardline that I spend more time trying to get the ends perfectly flat than measuring and bending sometimes!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> I wonder if there's any difference between standard hacksaws and the ones in like the EK/monsoon acrylic cutting kits. The monsoon one at least "claims" to have special teeth designed for acrylic but i'm not so sure it'd make much difference.
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with two blades that are for cutting plastic but they get stuck easily. Using a junior hacksaw and monsoon mitre box without it fastened to something is a pain in the arse. You really need a vice to hold the mitre box and even then it's still not ideal. I'm thinking about trying my dremel in my vice and cutting that way.
> 
> It's so critical that you have perfectly flat tube ends with monsoon hardline that I spend more time trying to get the ends perfectly flat than measuring and bending sometimes!
Click to expand...

Use a 1" engineers file,it will make the ends perfectly flat every time.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> ...I'm thinking about trying my dremel in my vice and cutting that way.


did you know dremel makes a vice?
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Attachments/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=2500-01


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vegarhed*
> 
> Have you given these puppies a thought? Come in 90 and 45 deg versions. Maybe even 60 and 30 deg.
> 
> 
> 
> Or these G1/4" versions
> 
> 
> 
> Your solution will of course work if you already have the rotaries you wanna reuse. But people seem to overlook these. IMO they look much sleeker than straight compression + adapters.


That's actually what i'm gonna get, i was just mentioning the fittings and adapter seperately for reference. I plan to get 4 of the 45 degree ones, 2 of the 90 degree ones, and a single 90 degree non rotary adapter for my pump to terminal run since my pump leans backwards so i don't want a longer rotary as it wouldn't line up to fit right.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> It comes with two blades that are for cutting plastic but they get stuck easily. Using a junior hacksaw and monsoon mitre box without it fastened to something is a pain in the arse. You really need a vice to hold the mitre box and even then it's still not ideal. I'm thinking about trying my dremel in my vice and cutting that way.
> 
> It's so critical that you have perfectly flat tube ends with monsoon hardline that I spend more time trying to get the ends perfectly flat than measuring and bending sometimes!


What about the 12mm OD crystal link tubing? is it super important to get perfect edges on those just like the monsoon hardline? wouldn't the reamer get the edges pretty straight even if your cut isn't too good?


----------



## electro2u

It depends on the fittings used. Certain fittings want a well chamfered edge and some have multiple tough Orings and it's not as necessary. You always want to deburr, but some times you may actually want to fine sand them afterwards to make the entry soft on the lone Orings in push in type fittings.

I pretty much always sand with low 400 grit to a flat edge since I use a hand saw. Then I deburr and no more sanding but I use enhanced multilinks and they have Orings inside the push in and outside on the outer "compression" ring.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> It comes with two blades that are for cutting plastic but they get stuck easily. Using a junior hacksaw and monsoon mitre box without it fastened to something is a pain in the arse. You really need a vice to hold the mitre box and even then it's still not ideal. I'm thinking about trying my dremel in my vice and cutting that way.
> 
> It's so critical that you have perfectly flat tube ends with monsoon hardline that I spend more time trying to get the ends perfectly flat than measuring and bending sometimes!
> 
> 
> 
> What about the 12mm OD crystal link tubing? is it super important to get perfect edges on those just like the monsoon hardline? wouldn't the reamer get the edges pretty straight even if your cut isn't too good?
Click to expand...

Actually the reamer while nice for deburring the edge of the tubing will not make it straight. It doesn't mount to the edge of the tube at an angle unless you apply the proper angle and can keep it while you twist it. I know this because my very first cut was done without a vice to hold the miter box in place. I cut it entirely by hand with the Monsoon handsaw. I ended up getting it as straight as possible by hand using the miter box and my flat jewler's file.

As noted earlier a 1" engineer file is the best tool to keep your cuts perfect. I have one, but I didn't have it handy at the time. And remember how I noted applied science for the silicon insert? That shiznit can get locked in place with a single perfectly formed 90 degree bend. So make sure that your inserts are lubed with some olive oil/non food lubricant. Otherwise you may end up doing like I first did and reheat the tubing to remove it w/o toiling it up.









My first bend was perfectomundo otherwise. Second bend well that too was perfect other than applying too much pressure with my thumb holding it to the 90 jig and leaving a slight indented from my heat resistant glove.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> It depends on the fittings used. Certain fittings want a well chamfered edge and some have multiple tough Orings and it's not as necessary. You always want to deburr, but some times you may actually want to fine sand them afterwards to make the entry soft on the lone Orings in push in type fittings.
> 
> I pretty much always sand with low 400 grit to a flat edge since I use a hand saw. Then I deburr and no more sanding but I use enhanced multilinks and they have Orings inside the push in and outside on the outer "compression" ring.


THat's the same fittings i'll be using, bitspower enhanced multi-link 12mm OD with the compression rings that go on the push-in part. So with those fittings i wouldn't have to do anything other than reaming and light sanding right?


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Use a 1" engineers file,it will make the ends perfectly flat every time.


never heard of 1" engineers file can you tell me whats it?


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Use a 1" engineers file,it will make the ends perfectly flat every time.
> 
> 
> 
> never heard of 1" engineers file can you tell me whats it?
Click to expand...

Think 'engineer's file' is more common in the UK, but it's just a flat file, usually sold with a handle, a large one with approx 1" wide flat side.

https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=engineers+file


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> THat's the same fittings i'll be using, bitspower enhanced multi-link 12mm OD with the compression rings that go on the push-in part. So with those fittings i wouldn't have to do anything other than reaming and light sanding right?


I don't think so.


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Think 'engineer's file' is more common in the UK, but it's just a flat file, usually sold with a handle, a large one with approx 1" wide flat side.
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=engineers+file


thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unicr0nhunter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Use a 1" engineers file,it will make the ends perfectly flat every time.
> 
> 
> 
> never heard of 1" engineers file can you tell me whats it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Think 'engineer's file' is more common in the UK, but it's just a flat file, usually sold with a handle, a large one with approx 1" wide flat side.
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=engineers+file
Click to expand...

Exactly this.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh something I neglected to mention for those of you who have the Monsoon miter jigs...

apply some tape to the inside of the jaw on the long side and then see if you can just lay your tube in it and let it go. If it doesn't stay perfectly straight, apply another layer and so forth. There is a lot of play in the miter box so it can be difficult to get a straight cut, regardless of whether you have it in a vice or not. Once you have the tape in place it should hold your tube snugly w/o play and give you better surface contact to cut your tubing. Better surface contact means a straighter cut.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

it sucks that the EK cutting kit and stuff doesn't have a miter box with it. I can't seem to find any 10mm/12mm miter boxes anywhere; only 1/2" OD and 3/8" OD to match like the primochill/monsoon stuff.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> it sucks that the EK cutting kit and stuff doesn't have a miter box with it. I can't seem to find any 10mm/12mm miter boxes anywhere; only 1/2" OD and 3/8" OD to match like the primochill/monsoon stuff.


Get the 3/8" monsoon mitre box and odd as caederman suggest with adding tape to make the 12mm tubing snug in the box.

The monsoon miter boxes aren't fantastic but they are small and easy to use on the fly. The best thing besides the tape trick is to secure the box in one way or another. I chiseled out a mounting whole for the entire box into a larger piece of mdf and use a vice to secure the mounting board.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah a slim pipe cutting miter box that was adjustable to which ever tubing would be nice


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> it sucks that the EK cutting kit and stuff doesn't have a miter box with it. I can't seem to find any 10mm/12mm miter boxes anywhere; only 1/2" OD and 3/8" OD to match like the primochill/monsoon stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> Get the 3/8" monsoon mitre box and odd as caederman suggest with adding tape to make the 12mm tubing snug in the box.
> 
> The monsoon miter boxes aren't fantastic but they are small and easy to use on the fly. The best thing besides the tape trick is to secure the box in one way or another. I chiseled out a mounting whole for the entire box into a larger piece of mdf and use a vice to secure the mounting board.
Click to expand...

I'm gonna drill two points in mine and countersink them to allow it to be locked down the way the jigs are able to be. Seems like this was something that should have been done for such a well thought out setup. Sometimes the simplest of ideas are overlooked in the planning department.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Barefooter

I wonder if a vise like this would work well?
http://www.micromark.com/duplicating-jig-for-cutting-strip-and-tube-stock,9273.html

I couldn't get the picture to load, but there's the link.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> I wonder if a vise like this would work well?
> http://www.micromark.com/duplicating-jig-for-cutting-strip-and-tube-stock,9273.html
> 
> I couldn't get the picture to load, but there's the link.


I wouldn't. It is a V channel setup and if you notice, it would put the bulk of your tubing size completely exposed. So that means you would have to guide your saw correctly w/o stability.









"Works on any shape stock *up to 1/4* inch in any one dimension"

So no it will not work.

~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah a slim pipe cutting miter box that was adjustable to which ever tubing would be nice


Wouldn't a pipe cutter destroy acrylic though since it's meant for brass/copper/iron etc.. piping?

i suppose PETG would be different but acrylic might break


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Wouldn't a pipe cutter destroy acrylic though since it's meant for brass/copper/iron etc.. piping?
> 
> i suppose PETG would be different but acrylic might break


I meant the box section to give a secure hold to the piping to allow a good clean cut of the tubing

looks like I'll just go snag one of these from my local Harbor Freight










2" Bench Top Cutoffsaw


----------



## electro2u

I mentioned this in the water cooling club thread but it's more suited to this one:
*16mm bitspower crystal link tubing doesn't fit into 16mm bitspower multilink enhanced fittings.*
What in hell?
Have a ton of the tubing and it's all too large to even fit in my 16mm miter box, which is slightly over 16mm...


----------



## Ceadderman

Wow, that sucks and seems quite odd... Given that both come from the same mfr.









Glad that I didn't go with BP acrylic system now.









~Ceadder


----------



## guitarhero23

Question, does 12mm e22 tube work fine with the 13mm Monsoon bend kit?


----------



## Ceadderman

It should but you will have to account for that 1mm differential in your length measurements.

~Ceadder


----------



## guitarhero23

Any huge advantage that makes it worth it to get

These
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22416/ex-tub-2511/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_White_BP-DWEML.html?tl=g30c703#blank

Over these?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c47-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html

Can get 2 for the price of one, both with double O-ring it seems (would be using for whole build if doable, not just between VGA.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I mentioned this in the water cooling club thread but it's more suited to this one:
> *16mm bitspower crystal link tubing doesn't fit into 16mm bitspower multilink enhanced fittings.*
> What in hell?
> Have a ton of the tubing and it's all too large to even fit in my 16mm miter box, which is slightly over 16mm...


Let [email protected] know about it,not used the BP tube yet over 12mm so this is new to me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Question, does 12mm e22 tube work fine with the 13mm Monsoon bend kit?


Perfectly fine,I use both together exclusively.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I mentioned this in the water cooling club thread but it's more suited to this one:
> *16mm bitspower crystal link tubing doesn't fit into 16mm bitspower multilink enhanced fittings.*
> What in hell?
> Have a ton of the tubing and it's all too large to even fit in my 16mm miter box, which is slightly over 16mm...


Reminds me of the guy recently trying to use EK 16mm tubing with BP 16mm fittings and it didn't work.

Gonna have to investigate this.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Any huge advantage that makes it worth it to get
> 
> These
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22416/ex-tub-2511/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_White_BP-DWEML.html?tl=g30c703#blank
> 
> Over these?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c47-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html
> 
> Can get 2 for the price of one, both with double O-ring it seems (would be using for whole build if doable, not just between VGA.


Big difference between the two . . . . especially from the ease of installation perspective

The first uses a single o ring that compresses to seal as the cap is screwed onto the base.

That makes them easier to assemble and they work fine with more tolerance for angular miss-alignment.

The slight downside, is that they are markedly larger in size than the second option you linked, and don't usually look as clean and simple, especially in short runs like a fully blocked mobo.

The second item you linked does use double o rings to seal the tube, but they are harder to install because you have to work the tube into them past both o rings. There's no compression tightening.

When I use that type fitting, I usually use rotary fittings at the ends so I can assemble the run, and then use the rotaries to install it into place.

There's also a single o ring version of that second option that works for very tight fitting locations, but to get a little easier workability, you give up the double seal for a single o ring seal.

Choose the type you want based on your experience, patience, dexterity, and aesthetic preference.

Darlene


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I meant the box section to give a secure hold to the piping to allow a good clean cut of the tubing
> 
> looks like I'll just go snag one of these from my local Harbor Freight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2" Bench Top Cutoffsaw


Yeah, my bad. Didn't read it correctly i guess, thought you meant to use an actual pipe cutter; my father was a heating/air conditioning contractor and pumber etc.. for years so i'd easily be able to get one, but as mentioned i was unsure of the safety of using one on acrylic. He might have a miter box, but i doubt he'd have one very close to 10/12mm size.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I mentioned this in the water cooling club thread but it's more suited to this one:
> *16mm bitspower crystal link tubing doesn't fit into 16mm bitspower multilink enhanced fittings.*
> What in hell?
> Have a ton of the tubing and it's all too large to even fit in my 16mm miter box, which is slightly over 16mm...


Wow.....just wow....that's disturbingly ridiculous. I mean like false advertising ridiculous, come on what kind of product doesn't fit the same manufacturer's equivelant connecting product. That'd be like making a toilet seat for a standard public bathroom with a 14nm diameter opening in it....it's messy, bad for business, and just doesn't quite pass the smell test when used.

On a side note, do you know if the 10mm ID x 12mm OD crystal link tubing fits the 10/12mm enhanced multi-link fittings? Since that's the ones i planned to get, but if that's the case i'll spend the extra to get 500mm E22 tubing for $4-5 rather than the 1000mm crystal links for $3.99


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Any huge advantage that makes it worth it to get
> 
> These
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22416/ex-tub-2511/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_White_BP-DWEML.html?tl=g30c703#blank
> 
> Over these?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c47-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html
> 
> Can get 2 for the price of one, both with double O-ring it seems (would be using for whole build if doable, not just between VGA.


Well, one of them is a compression fitting (the enhanced multi-link at frozencpu) while the other is a push-in style fitting with no compression ring so it's not as secure from leaking or falling out; though many people have used them without a lot of issues. performance-pcs.com is way cheaper than frozencpu on nearly everything but apparently are the same price on the enhance multi-link fittings from bitspower.be aware that they don't have a very good return policy at ppcs.com, they charge restocking fees even if an item is defective most of the time. But with things like fittings that you aren't very likely to return or change your mind about they are a good place to shop. I'm getting all my fittings, tubing, and a radiator from them soon.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Wow.....just wow....that's disturbingly ridiculous. I mean like false advertising ridiculous, come on what kind of product doesn't fit the same manufacturer's equivelant connecting product. That'd be like making a toilet seat for a standard public bathroom with a 14nm diameter opening in it....it's messy, bad for business, and just doesn't quite pass the smell test when used.
> 
> On a side note, do you know if the 10mm ID x 12mm OD crystal link tubing fits the 10/12mm enhanced multi-link fittings? Since that's the ones i planned to get, but if that's the case i'll spend the extra to get 500mm E22 tubing for $4-5 rather than the 1000mm crystal links for $3.99


It does. I actually had bought This and This specifically to just test out fittings for the first time. So if that's what you're talking about it fit fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I meant the box section to give a secure hold to the piping to allow a good clean cut of the tubing
> 
> looks like I'll just go snag one of these from my local Harbor Freight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2" Bench Top Cutoffsaw
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, my bad. Didn't read it correctly i guess, thought you meant to use an actual pipe cutter; my father was a heating/air conditioning contractor and pumber etc.. for years so i'd easily be able to get one, but as mentioned i was unsure of the safety of using one on acrylic. He might have a miter box, but i doubt he'd have one very close to 10/12mm size.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I mentioned this in the water cooling club thread but it's more suited to this one:
> *16mm bitspower crystal link tubing doesn't fit into 16mm bitspower multilink enhanced fittings.*
> What in hell?
> Have a ton of the tubing and it's all too large to even fit in my 16mm miter box, which is slightly over 16mm...
> 
> 
> 
> Wow.....just wow....that's disturbingly ridiculous. I mean like false advertising ridiculous, come on what kind of product doesn't fit the same manufacturer's equivelant connecting product. That'd be like making a toilet seat for a standard public bathroom with a 14nm diameter opening in it....it's messy, bad for business, and just doesn't quite pass the smell test when used.
> 
> On a side note, do you know if the 10mm ID x 12mm OD crystal link tubing fits the 10/12mm enhanced multi-link fittings? Since that's the ones i planned to get, but if that's the case i'll spend the extra to get 500mm E22 tubing for $4-5 rather than the 1000mm crystal links for $3.99
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkIdeals*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Any huge advantage that makes it worth it to get
> 
> These
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22416/ex-tub-2511/Bitspower_G_14_Enhanced_Multi-Link_Adapter_-_12mm_OD_Rigid_Tube_-_White_BP-DWEML.html?tl=g30c703#blank
> 
> Over these?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-dwwp-c47-g1-4-deluxe-white-multi-link-adapter-set-of-2.html
> 
> Can get 2 for the price of one, both with double O-ring it seems (would be using for whole build if doable, not just between VGA.
> 
> 
> 
> Well, one of them is a compression fitting (the enhanced multi-link at frozencpu) while the other is a push-in style fitting with no compression ring so it's not as secure from leaking or falling out; though many people have used them without a lot of issues. performance-pcs.com is way cheaper than frozencpu on nearly everything but apparently are the same price on the enhance multi-link fittings from bitspower.be aware that they don't have a very good return policy at ppcs.com, they charge restocking fees even if an item is defective most of the time. But with things like fittings that you aren't very likely to return or change your mind about they are a good place to shop. I'm getting all my fittings, tubing, and a radiator from them soon.
Click to expand...

Hey bro, you do know that you can reply to multiple posts by clicking "multi" and then "quote".









~Ceadder


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> It does. I actually had bought This and This specifically to just test out fittings for the first time. So if that's what you're talking about it fit fine.


Yup, that's exactly what i'm talking about, except i'm getting the clear crystal link tubing and the black sparkle enhanced multi-link fittings with the 45/90 degree adapters built on them so i won't have to do as much acrylic bending.


----------



## DarkIdeals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey bro, you do know that you can reply to multiple posts by clicking "multi" and then "quote".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I didn't think i would be replying to three posts, i was just reading them one at a time and replying as i read. Good idea though, i should probably use that more to cause less clutter in the forum.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well I finally got some pics of my 2nd 90o bend. First one was perfect but the insert was stuck inside the tubing since I had failed to lubricate it,but this one got held a little tight on the long straight so it left a slight impression from the thumb of my HR glove.









Still it's not too bad tho?







Holding off for a bit til I get some more tubing. Cause 4 ain't gonna be enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well I finally got some pics of my 2nd 90o bend. First one was perfect but *the insert was stuck inside the tubing since I had failed to lubricate it*,but this one got held a little tight on the long straight so it left a slight impression from the thumb of my HR glove.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Still it's not too bad tho?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holding off for a bit til I get some more tubing. Cause 4 ain't gonna be enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It doesnt need lube,just run water down the gap and twist.


----------



## Ceadderman

Tried that. Fail.

In the end I just heated it back up removed the insert and chucked the bend. Now I just keep a small bit of Olive Oil to dip my fingertip into and give the insert a once over, insert in the tube an it comes right out of the bend w/o issue. Just need a rinse with warm tap water and good to go.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Are you using a rubber cord or silicone? I found rubber to stick alot more than silicone.


----------



## Ceadderman

Using the Monsoon silicon insert.









The reason I use Olive Oil is it lessens the possibility of drying out in the tube as quickly as water would do. I don't know if this is the case but I've got the Monsoon heatgun and tend to use the High temp selection over the Lower selection. So using water as lube isn't something that I woulda even considered.









~Ceadder


----------



## Turbz

I use the monsoon heatgun on low and their insert on their acrylic hardline. I don't lubricate at all and seem to have no issues, as long as the insert only passes one bend when the acrylic is set. This is on 16/13 stock.


----------



## Soxism

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Using the Monsoon silicon insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I use Olive Oil is it lessens the possibility of drying out in the tube as quickly as water would do. I don't know if this is the case but I've got the Monsoon heatgun and tend to use the High temp selection over the Lower selection. So using water as lube isn't something that I woulda even considered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Dont forget if anyone is going to use this method, that the tube need a serious clean, you really dont want any olive oil residue in your loop.


----------



## OwaN

I use glycerin for that very reason. Lubes it up, won't dry out and water soluble so you can just run some water through without worrying about residue


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soxism*
> 
> Dont forget if anyone is going to use this method, that the tube need a serious clean, you really dont want any olive oil residue in your loop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> I use glycerin for that very reason. Lubes it up, won't dry out and water soluble so you can just run some water through without worrying about residue


best to use silicone lube!!


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> best to use silicone lube!!


Glycerin should be safe on acrylic and PETG, plus I was able to just snag some from the lab I work it.. can't beat free


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soxism*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Using the Monsoon silicon insert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reason I use Olive Oil is it lessens the possibility of drying out in the tube as quickly as water would do. I don't know if this is the case but I've got the Monsoon heatgun and tend to use the High temp selection over the Lower selection. So using water as lube isn't something that I woulda even considered.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont forget if anyone is going to use this method, that the tube need a serious clean, you really dont want any olive oil residue in your loop.
Click to expand...

That's why you rinse with hot/warm water thoroughly. Of course you don't want any residue.









~Ceadder


----------



## electro2u

Am I the only weirdo that polishes my tubing after final cutting and sanding?


----------



## Turbz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Am I the only weirdo that polishes my tubing after final cutting and sanding?


+1 weirdo clocking in... it makes a big difference if you polish it, the way light plays off the acrylic.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

There is a joke in there somewhere, but I'm not going there.

But the short answer is ... no.


----------



## Turbz

Aww man, you had to go there


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Am I the only weirdo that polishes my tubing after final cutting and sanding?


No.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Am I the only weirdo that polishes my tubing after final cutting and sanding?


I have plans to polish mine when I do my first clean out of the loop. Just need to find the dang polish where ever packed it off to.


----------



## electro2u

Full. Circle 180 degree bends are hard


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Since everyone is talking about polishing ... what's your favorite polish and rag? Do you bother to flame polish the ends?

For doing sheets of acrylic, I like water/detergent, hit it with 1000 grit sand paper. Then clean with water and a microfiber towel. Then more water/detergent, hit it with 3000 grit sand paper. Then clean with water and a DIFFERENT microfiber towel. Buff with a Meguiars buff ball with Meguiars PlastX. Clean with water and a THIRD microfiber towel.

Similar for tubing, but most of the time, I just skip the 1000/3000 grit sand paper and just buff it with PlastX.

Anyone use the Novus 3-2-1 polish kit over just PastX?


----------



## Ceadderman

I like Maqwuire's plastic dressing. Using a cotton baby diaper. Of course I use them for getting the brightest shine when polishing my boots so you know they work for tubes also. If I don't have one handy then the thickest Tshirt from the hamper works in a pinch.









~Ceadder


----------



## sinnedone

Whatever brand plastic polish I have in the garage and a microfiber


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Since everyone is talking about polishing ... what's your favorite polish and rag? *Do you bother to flame polish the ends?*
> 
> For doing sheets of acrylic, I like water/detergent, hit it with 1000 grit sand paper. Then clean with water and a microfiber towel. Then more water/detergent, hit it with 3000 grit sand paper. Then clean with water and a DIFFERENT microfiber towel. Buff with a Meguiars buff ball with Meguiars PlastX. Clean with water and a THIRD microfiber towel.
> 
> Similar for tubing, but most of the time, I just skip the 1000/3000 grit sand paper and just buff it with PlastX.
> 
> Anyone use the Novus 3-2-1 polish kit over just PastX?


It just adds stresses into the tube,I would avoid that.


----------



## inedenimadam

subbed for reading and easy access. I have an algae issue that I am dealing with and instead of going back with soft, I am going to go hard.

Looking at the PTEG, does anybody have any experience with it? I know its kind of new to the playing field, but it does not look like an entirely bad option. Would I be right to say that it is easier to work with at the expense of permeation and problems that can bring?


----------



## Ceadderman

It's supposed to hold up better than Acrylic and be easier to work with and more forgiving to muliple reheats to get the proper bend. I believe that my Monsoon Hardline is PETG.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Can wait to get to start working my 30+ft of acrylic I have awaiting to go into my J.A.C. build, so far I've noticed I've been better at free-handing my bends over using an insert, of course now that I've stated that I'm going to screw something up lol. But I did buy the Monsoon insert just in case to help w/ 90's and anything past 9o's I'm hoping I can pull off with the insert and a ton of patience


----------



## lowfat

You should always be using an insert even w/ free handing it.


----------



## Turbz

You can't spell hardline without the 'hard.'







I've got cutting it down to a tee, but heating and bending results are still inconsistent.


----------



## guitarhero23

Still lookin good though!


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soxism*
> 
> Dont forget if anyone is going to use this method, that the tube need a serious clean, you really dont want any olive oil residue in your loop.


Dish soap and water works very well


----------



## Ceadderman

Check the July 2014 Iss.7 webzine for lots of tips and tricks for bending. If you're having issues bending it may be the setting of your gun. Mebbe you're too close? Too far? Away from the heat?

@ the very least it's a good read. ANd can mebbe help work out the kinks in your process.









~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Check the *July 2014 Iss.7 webzine* for lots of tips and tricks for bending. If you're having issues bending it may be the setting of your gun. Mebbe you're too close? Too far? Away from the heat?
> 
> @ the very least it's a good read. ANd can mebbe help work out the kinks in your process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What exactly is this? My Google-Fu fails me.


----------



## Ceadderman

computerpoweruser.com

Excellent mag for those of us in the industry.









It's in their "Hard Hat Area" of the issue posted about.









~Ceadder


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> You can't spell hardline without the 'hard.'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got cutting it down to a tee, but heating and bending results are still inconsistent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is gorgeous!!


----------



## Killa Cam

Is the monsoon bending kit worth it? Im doing 16mm rigid for my build, but I really don't want to spend that much on a kit that I know I'll use once a great while.

what are some other alternatives that I can use to bend acrylic?


----------



## Turbz

If you have really simple bends e.g. one or two 90 degrees bends on the same plane, you can easily get away with bending around a convenient round item. But once you start bending in multiple dimensions, the human eye is never going to beat proper measurement and proper tools.

The only essential items for simple bends are a decent silicone insert and a heat gun. Add a surface that you can draw your bends onto and you can do a lot with just those two tools.

If you were in the uk I would be happy to lend you my kit!


----------



## lever2stacks

I've been having a really hard time getting the acrylic to bend right for me. I can almost get it but the side I start on always has a lump on the leg after the 90* bend. Not sure what I'm doing wrong i've went through so much tubing trying to get it right. I'm using the monsoon hardline kit and primochill tubing here's a pic of whats going on. Any help is much appreciated I'm a total newb and i'm at a loss on what to do.




L


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Try heating a longer section of the tube than just what's being bent (~5" / 12cm or more for a 90 deg bend) until it is good and noodly (rAmen), and gently 'pull' the tube around the mandrel as you bend it.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I've been having a really hard time getting the acrylic to bend right for me. I can almost get it but the side I start on always has a lump on the leg after the 90* bend. Not sure what I'm doing wrong i've went through so much tubing trying to get it right. I'm using the monsoon hardline kit and primochill tubing here's a pic of whats going on. Any help is much appreciated I'm a total newb and i'm at a loss on what to do.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> L


It looks like your making some sort of pinch point from holding the tubing after the bend. Try working the bend up against the fittings instead of just holding the legs.


----------



## Metasheep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I've been having a really hard time getting the acrylic to bend right for me. I can almost get it but the side I start on always has a lump on the leg after the 90* bend. Not sure what I'm doing wrong i've went through so much tubing trying to get it right. I'm using the monsoon hardline kit and primochill tubing here's a pic of whats going on. Any help is much appreciated I'm a total newb and i'm at a loss on what to do.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> L


I've seen similar things when I pushed too hard against the tube while the it was still hot. Left an impression of the cotton glove even. You need to hold it lightly enough to keep it in place, then keep holding it until it's cool enough so the insert doesn't push it back out of 90.


----------



## szeged

any word on if the bitspower 10/12mm tube is worth buying or should i stick with e22? the bitspower is cheaper for the same amount, any reasons why?


----------



## Ceadderman

Got 12 Monsoon Shiny Red fittings coming.

I got discouraged away from their Chaingun fittings because the ones I initially purchased(4pack) weren't/haven't been available for months. With Frozen going out of business(I will believe they're back when someone I know gets something successfully from them) we only have one place to go an well they been out of stock since I bought mine.

So I should be setting up my MB to CPU route an mebbe GPU to MB. Not sure I want to go straight through directly with Rads being the last leg of the journey(before Res+Pump) but I won't fight it too much if that's how this goes.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any word on if the bitspower 10/12mm tube is worth buying or should i stick with e22? the bitspower is cheaper for the same amount, any reasons why?


E22 would be more expensive I guess because economies of scale. I understood from BNeg that Nate has his own extrusion machine, so it is made by his shop workers. While the Bitspower stuff is mass produced in Taiwan.


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> E22 would be more expensive I guess because economies of scale. I understood from BNeg that Nate has his own extrusion machine, so it is made by his shop workers. While the Bitspower stuff is mass produced in Taiwan.


i may end up with stainless or chrome plated copper in the build anyways now







doing testing today to see if i can make it work.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> i may end up with stainless or *chrome plated copper* in the build anyways now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> doing testing today to see if i can make it work.


From what I have read, this is the way to go. However, I'm really curious how the stainless comes out. It is certainly a costly test.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> any word on if the bitspower 10/12mm tube is worth buying or should i stick with e22? the bitspower is cheaper for the same amount, any reasons why?
> 
> 
> 
> E22 would be more expensive I guess because economies of scale. I understood from BNeg that Nate has his own extrusion machine, so it is made by his shop workers. While the Bitspower stuff is mass produced in Taiwan.
Click to expand...

He has his own die rather than machine,he has a known manufacturer using their machine with his die. He had the die polished to amazing levels which gives the quality to the tube.
E22 Ultraclear is the best tube you can buy.

I'm going back to copper myself....too many acrylic loops now,not individual anymore...


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He has his own die rather than machine,he has a known manufactuerer using their machine with his die. He had the die polished to amazing levels which gives the quality to the tube.
> E22 Ultraclear is the best tube you can buy.
> 
> I'm going back to copper myself....too many acrylic loops now,not individual anymore...


i agree too a certain degree, hard acrylic really blew up after the first initial wave of it, though some people do manage to make it unique still. You are one of them.

Decided to scrap the idea of acrylic in this build, went with 12mm stainless, already working on getting it to a mirror finish


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> He has his own die rather than machine,he has a known manufactuerer using their machine with his die. He had the die polished to amazing levels which gives the quality to the tube.
> E22 Ultraclear is the best tube you can buy.
> 
> I'm going back to copper myself....too many acrylic loops now,not individual anymore...
> 
> 
> 
> i agree too a certain degree, *hard acrylic really blew up after the first initial wave of it,* though some people do manage to make it unique still. You are one of them.
> 
> Decided to scrap the idea of acrylic in this build, went with 12mm stainless, already working on getting it to a mirror finish
Click to expand...



Polishing stainless is a miserable,dirty and thankless task.....

Looks the absolute tits when its done right tho,make chrome look 'wet knickers at the bus stop'.....


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> 
> 
> Polishing stainless is a miserable,dirty and thankless task.....
> 
> Looks the absolute tits when its done right tho,make chrome look 'wet knickers at the bus stop'.....


oh yeah, polishing stainless sucks, i found that out at work lol.

I got my stainless in last night and started polishing, started with hand sanding, 400 > 600 > 800 > 1000 > 1500 > 2000 > 3000 grit all wet sanding. After that was done i took it over to my bench grinder with a canton flannel buffing wheel with some jewelers rouge buffing compound, waiting on some autosol stainless polish to arrive for the final touches but so far that mirror finish is lookin good


----------



## Ceadderman

Nvr Dull ftw!









Hey guys I have a WTB thread up becuZ I am in need of 4 mandrel jigs. I am looking for four of the Red Monsoon 360s. Preferably unused but I would welcome any who would be willing to contribute to my build. Only posting this to get the word out. Thank you for your time.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Got to say acrylic is nice looking though. Plus, I like the fact I can keep using the same tubes even if I have to do a clean down or tear down of the rig.

Though, I really want to give a go with some metal tubing, but the idea I have is not going to work out. So for now I probably wait out on trying.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I would love to use a polished copper in the m8 but that will be phase 2, have 30ft of acrylic to burn through lol


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know I would love to use a polished copper in the m8 but that will be phase 2, have 30ft of acrylic to burn through lol


I still got like 4-5 long lengths of acrylic left. Kind of bought a lot just in case I screwed up to much. Lucky, was not to hard for me to get the hang of. Though, I did get tired of using the mandrels and started using the square pattern on my Mom's rug instead.


----------



## Turbz

In my next build I will simply be squirting water from block to block, pipe is so overdone.

Now where is that hipster emoticon...


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Turbz*
> 
> In my next build I will simply be squirting water from block to block, pipe is so overdone.
> 
> Now where is that hipster emoticon...


I was thinking of using an air pump to push cold air through the acrylic


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> I still got like 4-5 long lengths of acrylic left. Kind of bought a lot just in case I screwed up to much. Lucky, was not to hard for me to get the hang of. Though, I did get tired of using the mandrels and started using the square pattern on my Mom's rug instead.


Yeah still need to make some mandrels for bending since I have around 15-20 Primochill Ghost fittings to use w/ lil to no 45 adapters so this will be all bending for my first go at acrylic







this should be interesting lol


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah still need to make some mandrels for bending since I have around 15-20 Primochill Ghost fittings to use w/ lil to no 45 adapters so this will be all bending for my first go at acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this should be interesting lol


I know some people aren't a fan of Monsoon's mandrels but they certainly got the job done for me. The best part about them is how they are concave so that it holds the tube in place as you apply pressure to the bend.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah still need to make some mandrels for bending since I have around 15-20 Primochill Ghost fittings to use w/ lil to no 45 adapters so this will be all bending for my first go at acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this should be interesting lol


You can borrow mine when i get back home everything but the 90


----------



## DarthBaggins

sounds good, since I'm still awaiting a refund or replacement PSU from NewEgg


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah still need to make some mandrels for bending since I have around 15-20 Primochill Ghost fittings to use w/ lil to no 45 adapters so this will be all bending for my first go at acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this should be interesting lol


Hehe, that what all the acrylic in RadioActive was done. A good amount of bending. Though doing those three bends from rad to CPU was a pain in the butt.



Was so happy that third try at it work, otherwise my ex jet mech self may of decided to get physical.


----------



## electro2u

Anybody have any tips on doing complex multiple short bends?

Been working on an acrylic CF bridge for someone between a 295x2 and a 290 and of course the terminals dont match. I have done a few of these free hand and gotten close to being professional grade but wondering if theres a better way of doing multiple bends right next to each other.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Anybody have any tips on doing complex multiple short bends?
> 
> Been working on an acrylic CF bridge for someone between a 295x2 and a 290 and of course the terminals dont match. I have done a few of these free hand and gotten close to being professional grade but wondering if theres a better way of doing multiple bends right next to each other.


A 12.5mm router bit and MDF,mill the shape you want then lay the hot tube into it. I have used this method before,it works but requires you to have the grip of a strangler.....


----------



## electro2u

That is really smart. Thanks bneg. I do have access to a router.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> A 12.5mm router bit and MDF,mill the shape you want then lay the hot tube into it. I have used this method before,it works *but requires you to have the grip of a strangler*.....


Just curious as to how you know this...


----------



## charliebrown

i know this is acrylic thread but the other pipe thread seems dead i just want to ask b-neg if he ever soldered his pipes if so do you have any tips


----------



## electro2u

I doubt it because you dont want tin touching the coolant


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes you can if you sleeve the two tubes together and braze tje sleeve in place.

Plumbers do it all the time when they work with Copper pipes. Just butt the tubes end to end to keep your coolant inside the tubing.

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> i know this is acrylic thread but the other pipe thread seems dead i just want to ask b-neg if he ever soldered his pipes if so do you have any tips


Yup,use a blow torch to heat the fitting,not the tube,and touch the solder rod to the fitting/tube join,the solder will melt into the gap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I doubt it because you dont want tin touching the coolant


No different to a rad.....the average rad is full of solder.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> No different to a rad.....the average rad is full of solder.


Foot meet mouth.


----------



## charliebrown

thanks guys saw this build and wanted to be sure before i started soldering i was scared of stuff getting in my loop


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> 
> thanks guys saw this build and wanted to be sure before i started soldering i was scared of stuff getting in my loop


I LOVE that bottom bend!! Great job, charliebrown! My bad, I thought it was your build...


----------



## charliebrown

Lol nope but it will be close to that


----------



## charliebrown

So once I solder my 90 fittings in just flush it like I do my rads right B


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> So once I solder my 90 fittings in just flush it like I do my rads right B


Yup, though if you do a good job, it shouldn't take much.









~Ceadder


----------



## charliebrown

OK thanks


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> So once I solder my 90 fittings in just flush it like I do my rads right B












Yup,do it outside of the rig tho as plumbing flux is very aggressive. Only flux the tube and not the fitting.


----------



## charliebrown

Got you thanks everyone


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

If anyone has the monsoon hardline pro mandrel 5/8 (16mm) set, could you measure the radius for me? I'm trying to compare acrylic bending and measurements to copper bending for the similar size tubing and knowing the radius of the 90/180 mandrel would help a lot!


----------



## Krazy Kanuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krazy Kanuck*
> 
> If anyone has the monsoon hardline pro mandrel 5/8 (16mm) set, could you measure the radius for me? I'm trying to compare acrylic bending and measurements to copper bending for the similar size tubing and knowing the radius of the 90/180 mandrel would help a lot!


Disregard, I got an answer from Monsoon. Its 24mm (center line) or 16mm without if anyone is interested.


----------



## charliebrown

hey im bout to solder right now but gut 50/50 that should not matter right im not drinking water from this but will that be ok in my loop


----------



## MegaTheJohny

Hey guys, I read like 100 pages but I couldn't find much about offset tubing. So I would like to get some tips. What is the best way to get proper offset?
Here is my picutre: I need to make tube between GPU - Motherboard monoblock.


Also how to make something like this :


Should I make first 90 degree angle, than heat up tube again and make another offset angle ? or I do both angels simultaneously ? (heat longer part of the tube)


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MegaTheJohny*
> 
> Hey guys, I read like 100 pages but I couldn't find much about offset tubing. So I would like to get some tips. What is the best way to get proper offset?
> Here is my picutre: I need to make tube between GPU - Motherboard monoblock.
> 
> 
> Also how to make something like this :
> 
> 
> Should I make first 90 degree angle, than heat up tube again and make another offset angle ? or I do both angels simultaneously ? (heat longer part of the tube)


Offsets need a bit of length to be achieved in a good shape. for your first photo i would get a rotary adapter to help with the issue.. as it's kinda hard to have that perfectly lined up. it can be done. but a lot of tubing will be killed in the process.. which brings us to your second photo. this is one of the hardest bends to be done.. it is doable but you will need to waste some tubing until you get it perfect.


----------



## emsj86

I did a bend on the bottom photo for a friend. What I did was being it was the last bend and hardest bend of course I cut my silcone tube down to the length I needed or close to it. Heated the whole length and bent it in place. I was surprised how it worked took a few times heating it back up to get a cleaner look. Probably my the right way to do it but worked for me


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, multi bends are not easy. My triple bend from radiator to CPU was a pain in the butt. 2nd pain in the butt was from CPU to res.





Best thing to do is just take your time. You will be killing a lot of tubing though.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah not looking forward to all the bends I'm going to have to do lol


----------



## charliebrown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, multi bends are not easy. My triple bend from radiator to CPU was a pain in the butt. 2nd pain in the butt was from CPU to res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Best thing to do is just take your time. You will be killing a lot of tubing though.


lol bruh i painted my raystom the same color


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> lol bruh i painted my raystom the same color


Picture really don't show mine off right. It is actually copper paint with anodized red on top, so it has a nice shine color transition effect when seen in person. Even the grills on my Haf X where done with same way.

This pics might show the effect of the paint off a little better.


----------



## charliebrown

That's sweet


----------



## fast_fate

Got a new *Free Shipping Code* sorted out on *Rocket Science Fittings* for everyone to use and share around








Should be same as before - free worldwide shipping on orders over $50.

fast_fateOCN


----------



## ozzy1925

i got my new cutting tool yesterday











with the diamond blade it cuts the acrylic like a butter .


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i got my new cutting tool yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with the diamond blade it cuts the acrylic like a butter .


Good choice
















I looked at those on the net, which took a while to find one on a page in English, and they seem like a quality product. . . A notch above the Drill Master / Harbor Freight items that go for much less $$.

Did you get a diamond blade extra, or are you referring to the blade that comes with it, which is actually an abrasive like a Dremel cutoff wheel?

Darlene


----------



## ozzy1925

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> Good choice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I looked at those on the net, which took a while to find one on a page in English, and they seem like a quality product. . . A notch above the Drill Master / Harbor Freight items that go for much less $$.
> 
> Did you get a diamond blade extra, or are you referring to the blade that comes with it, which is actually an abrasive like a Dremel cutoff wheel?
> 
> Darlene


thanks







i bought the diamond blade extra but the stock blade is also good .Here the diamond


and the stock:


----------



## Ithanul

Mmmm, how much does on of those go for? I could use that for more than just my computer mods.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Mmmm, how much does on of those go for? I could use that for more than just my computer mods.


Check "Proxxon" @ the Depot. They got all kinds of goodies. Same for on eBay.

~Ceadder


----------



## Unicr0nhunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Mmmm, how much does on of those go for? I could use that for more than just my computer mods.
> 
> 
> 
> Check "Proxxon" @ the Depot. They got all kinds of goodies. Same for on eBay.
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I doubt you'll find that Proxxon KG 50 at Home Depot though as I believe it's 240V only.

Proxxon does make a similar but bigger and more than twice as expensive model, the KGS 80, that is available in 110V/240V.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I'm going to get the HF special one, cheap and hopefully will last long enough for my build


----------



## Ceadderman

Actually they carry Proxxon on their OL site. Including scroll saws. So never know.

~Ceadder


----------



## Ceadderman

Probably the hardest to connect and the hardest to measure for with Center to Center...





Spoiler: Warning: It's a process!











But I finally got my MB to CPU leg done. I ended up bending a 45 wasting it and then using the waste to my advantage by connecting it to the MB side and using the 45 mandrel, marking the spot to line up with the end of the mandrel and then using that to mark out the position on my tube board. Could be shorter so will be fine tuning that piece to shorten things up.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Probably the hardest to connect and the hardest to measure for with Center to Center...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: It's a process!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I finally got my MB to CPU leg done. I ended up bending a 45 wasting it and then using the waste to my advantage by connecting it to the MB side and using the 45 mandrel, marking the spot to line up with the end of the mandrel and then using that to mark out the position on my tube board. Could be shorter so will be fine tuning that piece to shorten things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's where I'm glad I went with the mono block style (BP Floor Tile lol ), turned out good though


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Probably the hardest to connect and the hardest to measure for with Center to Center...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: It's a process!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I finally got my MB to CPU leg done. I ended up bending a 45 wasting it and then using the waste to my advantage by connecting it to the MB side and using the 45 mandrel, marking the spot to line up with the end of the mandrel and then using that to mark out the position on my tube board. Could be shorter so will be fine tuning that piece to shorten things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not a bad first attempt,bends look a little square tho. You may benefit from heating the tube over a longer length.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Probably the hardest to connect and the hardest to measure for with Center to Center...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: It's a process!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I finally got my MB to CPU leg done. I ended up bending a 45 wasting it and then using the waste to my advantage by connecting it to the MB side and using the 45 mandrel, marking the spot to line up with the end of the mandrel and then using that to mark out the position on my tube board. Could be shorter so will be fine tuning that piece to shorten things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a bad first attempt,bends look a little square tho. You may benefit from heating the tube over a longer length.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. The extension fitting in the pic is being replaced with a shorter Red one so I am holding off cutting or bending atm. I am still trying to get my acrylic MB Tray sorted out so bending has gotta take a back seat Until I have that in place. Just wanted to do something while I am stuck. Well besides stockpiling gear anyway.









I am going for a square look though. Just not as blatantly obvious as it is. I guess I could use my 360 mandrel to get more rounded corners?









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

My donation. I had to bend one tube (Thankfully, I am horrible at this) used a longer piece than needed to be able to get the perfect bend for the 90Degree. Then just trimmed the edges to fit.

TCO

(Used Dad's old school heat gun from the the Workshop)


----------



## majnu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozzy1925*
> 
> i got my new cutting tool yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -snip-
> 
> with the diamond blade it cuts the acrylic like a butter .


actually butter is quite difficult to cut unless you mean like a hot knife through butter.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheCautiousOne*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My donation. I had to bend one tube (Thankfully, I am horrible at this) used a longer piece than needed to be able to get the perfect bend for the 90Degree. Then just trimmed the edges to fit.
> 
> TCO
> 
> (Used Dad's old school heat gun from the the Workshop)


It looks like you're too close to the HG cautious. I could be wrong of course but I believe that you should be between 3-4" away not 1-2". Of course the pic could be skewing things a bit from the correct perspective.









Love the old skool heatgun though. Wish I still had my Gramps HG. A Craftsman model from the 50s' is hard won and difficult to come by.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It looks like you're too close to the HG cautious. I could be wrong of course but I believe that you should be between 3-4" away not 1-2". Of course the pic could be skewing things a bit from the correct perspective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love the old skool heatgun though. Wish I still had my Gramps HG. A Craftsman model from the 50s' is hard won and difficult to come by.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No your right.. My woman took some shots when I did my first bend (Went in the trash) Bubbled and whatnot.. I went a little farther like you are talking about ... about 5"









Took my time and Heated up a good section of the tubing to get a 90degree. Then just trimmed the edges.

The Cautious ONe



The 90 Degree going into the Mosfet of the Motherboard.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's my problem is the wanting it heated quickly so I tend to hold the tubing too close lol. .


----------



## Wolfsbora

At least 6" away from the heat, rotating the entire time, and at least heating up a space of no less than 3".


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That's my problem is the wanting it heated quickly so I tend to hold the tubing too close lol. .


And being Jacked up on Caffeine?









No but really.. I do tend it to hold it to close because I want it to get hot fast... which isn't good at all.

And I've not bent enough to have great knowledge of the art of Bending

The Cautious One


----------



## Wolfsbora

B Neg's advice of heating it up until it has just enough give to bend on its own and then immediately removing it from the heat after following the instructions I listed up top will help you achieve healthy bends. It really does require patience.


----------



## X-Nine

Bending across multiple axis isn't really that difficult if you have the right tools. The Monsoon bending kit make it much easier since you can actually measure the axis of the bends using the rulers that can be affixed to each other.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> Bending across multiple axis isn't really that difficult if you have the right tools. The Monsoon bending kit make it much easier since you can actually measure the axis of the bends using the rulers that can be affixed to each other.


^This. Along with the fact that you can mount the mandrels so that you can use more than one to go in a different direction. They come with little metal brackets and screws that allow you to mount them vertically too.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> B Neg's advice of heating it up until it has just enough give to bend on its own and then immediately removing it from the heat after following the instructions I listed up top will help you achieve healthy bends. It really does require patience.


You will also see the tube turn glassy too.

Its all about gradual heating rather than going great guns on it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> B Neg's advice of heating it up until it has just enough give to bend on its own and then immediately removing it from the heat after following the instructions I listed up top will help you achieve healthy bends. It really does require patience.
> 
> 
> 
> You will also see the tube turn glassy too.
> 
> Its all about gradual heating rather than going great guns on it.
Click to expand...

Yeah um, white tube doesn't turn glassy. Pretty sure black won't either.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> B Neg's advice of heating it up until it has just enough give to bend on its own and then immediately removing it from the heat after following the instructions I listed up top will help you achieve healthy bends. It really does require patience.
> 
> 
> 
> You will also see the tube turn glassy too.
> 
> Its all about gradual heating rather than going great guns on it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah um, white tube doesn't turn glassy. Pretty sure black won't either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I didnt say clear,I said glassy. It will develop a certain gloss to the tube. Perhaps not white but every other colour will do it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> B Neg's advice of heating it up until it has just enough give to bend on its own and then immediately removing it from the heat after following the instructions I listed up top will help you achieve healthy bends. It really does require patience.
> 
> 
> 
> You will also see the tube turn glassy too.
> 
> Its all about gradual heating rather than going great guns on it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah um, white tube doesn't turn glassy. Pretty sure black won't either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I didnt say clear,I said glassy. It will develop a certain gloss to the tube. Perhaps not white but every other colour will do it.
Click to expand...

Sorry Bneg, I'm just in one o them moods y'know. I'll probably be in a jovial mood til I get the system running an I'll be takin the p!zz out til then.


















~Ceadder


----------



## Jumie

Hello all, I need some advice on bending thingy, is tubing reamer mandatory to use after cutting the tube? or could I just use sand paper instead?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> Hello all, I need some advice on bending thingy, is tubing reamer mandatory to use after cutting the tube? or could I just use sand paper instead?


Sandpaper does work. Just make sure to deburr both the inside and outside. The reamer just makes it easier and more consistent. Remember, the purpose is to prevent the fitting's O ring from getting caught/cut.


----------



## Jakusonfire

I just use a small file so all surfaces are nice and smooth with no edges. Its more labour intensive but I prefer the result.


----------



## Jumie

Thanks, glad to know that I can use it..


----------



## ccRicers

What is the minimum length of silicone insert you need to make a good bend with acrylic?


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> What is the minimum length of silicone insert you need to make a good bend with acrylic?


Minimum length should be whatever the longest tube run is.

So say you have 5 tubes to bend, 6",10",3",3", 4". You should get no less than 10" and probably should get like a 12" so you have extra on either side. That would be my "recommendation". You can do whatever works for you though.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ccRicers*
> 
> What is the minimum length of silicone insert you need to make a good bend with acrylic?


The insert only needs to go maybe an inch or so passed the end of the bend. I did some fancy artwork in Paint to demonstrate:


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Personally,I recommend about a meter,as long as its longer than the tube so you can pull at both ends to remove is ideal...especially for multiple bends.


----------



## Ceadderman

I have to concur, but I suggest a few different lengths. I have a 12" lentgh but for shorter bends I think a shorter length would work better. The inserts are cut from a spool, so it's curved and can be a bit of a pain to work with. So I am getting a couple more to customize a few of significantly shorter pieces to simplify my bending process. Tbh, nobody needs an excessive bit hanging out of the tube to remove once the bend is completed.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have to concur, but I suggest a few different lengths. I have a 12" lentgh but for shorter bends I think a shorter length would work better. The inserts are cut from a spool, so it's curved and can be a bit of a pain to work with. So I am getting a couple more to customize a few of significantly shorter pieces to simplify my bending process. Tbh, nobody needs an excessive bit hanging out of the tube to remove once the bend is completed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If your insert has retained a curve from the spool,hang from a washing line on a hot day clipped to it at one end,it will straighten out easily.
I'm baffled as to why you want so many different lengths tho,one insert is all that's needed.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just four lengths.I tried straightening mine and it didn't straighten.

I figure as cheap as they are getting and cutting for length of need is good enough.









~Ceadder


----------



## guitarhero23

The less fittings the better!




















Come on down to see the rest! [Build Log]


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> The less fittings the better!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Come on down to see the rest! [Build Log]


Well done!! That is one nice build!


----------



## taowulf

Oh, it is just Guitarhero's build again....


----------



## Ceadderman

I love it tbh. Too bad you cannot get Hardline in Pastels. My girl would love a purple pastel. I will likely run clear purple hard line with green fittings for her build after I am done with mine. But seeing GH's pastel blue dye it's gonna be difficult to forgo color flowing inside that loop.









Great job bruh.









~Ceadder


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Oh, it is just Guitarhero's build again....


Don't worry you won't have to see it again!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I love it tbh. Too bad you cannot get Hardline in Pastels. My girl would love a purple pastel. I will likely run clear purple hard line with green fittings for her build after I am done with mine. But seeing GH's pastel blue dye it's gonna be difficult to forgo color flowing inside that loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great job bruh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you sir, I thought I saw purple pastel before...? Well maybe you can have mayhems make it for you like I think they did for this guy


----------



## Jumie

I have quite some trouble in bending, it is very hard to insert the silicon. I could only insert it like 3 inches inside the tube. Tried using virgin oil and dish soap but didn't work. even sanding the silicon with sand paper was no luck. any advice to make it easier?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> I have quite some trouble in bending, it is very hard to insert the silicon. I could only insert it like 3 inches inside the tube. Tried using virgin oil and dish soap but didn't work. even sanding the silicon with sand paper was no luck. any advice to make it easier?


Primochill?


----------



## Jumie

Yes Primochill...


----------



## emsj86

Had the same issue. Got a monsoon silcone and it worked perfect. Now I did sand my primochill a lot and was able to get it to work with dish soap but even than it was a struggle to twist and turn


----------



## DrexelDragon

Hey guys question, if I wanted to use acrylic pipings, would I have to get different fittings? I currently have compression fittings for my regular tubing. Are these still okay? Or is there a different type I need?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrexelDragon*
> 
> Hey guys question, if I wanted to use acrylic pipings, would I have to get different fittings? I currently have compression fittings for my regular tubing. Are these still okay? Or is there a different type I need?


You need hardline fittings that are specific to the size of the acrylic tube. Bitspower, Rocket Science, Monsoon, and quite a few others make hardline fittings. I highly recommend getting fittings that have 2 O rings. Go to the very first page of this thread to find plenty of information about fittings and tools that you'll need. B Neg did an awesome job of compiling all kinds of info.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jumie*
> 
> Yes Primochill...


Their tubing is not so regular in the ID sizing,cut a few inches off the tube then try again.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I noticed that with the bulk I got from McMasterCarr vs the small 24" section of PrimoChill i have, other than I can say I like the Primo a tad more even though I'm not willing to pay that price just yet


----------



## Ceadderman

Messing with my Monsoon economies, I see that you really only need one Oring. Meybe you can add another if you're squeamish about it but I will check to make sure before I rec that.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Messing with my Monsoon economies, I see that you really only need one Oring. Meybe you can add another if you're squeamish about it but I will check to make sure before I rec that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just need 1 the 2nd one is a spare!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Messing with my Monsoon economies, I see that you really only need one Oring. Meybe you can add another if you're squeamish about it but I will check to make sure before I rec that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need 1 the 2nd one is a spare!!
Click to expand...

Checked it before toddling off to bed last night and have to say that there is no way on God's green earth that you can double those orings up. The collar will just barely get on the thread and get mebbe 2 turns before the rings compress and stop the process.

But! You may be interested to know, that you can use Free Center Fitting seals in Economy Fittings. I have a pack of Chaingun fittings and the internal base ring fits inside perfectly.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

You can use the economy orings with the hard line also


----------



## XKaan

Hey guys! QQ - The E22 acrylic will work fine with EK rigid compression fittings right? (12mm\10mm)

Just triple checking before my order!


----------



## XKaan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XKaan*
> 
> Hey guys! QQ - The E22 acrylic will work fine with EK rigid compression fittings right? (12mm\10mm)
> 
> Just triple checking before my order!


NVMD - I found the answer - yes they work fine.


----------



## Solonowarion

Where can I find tube insert for 8mm ID?


----------



## Jakusonfire




----------



## DarthBaggins

Little late posting these in here but got started just have a couple more runs (Big ones) to do and then leak test after filling (plan on leak testing with distilled before I add in the X1 BloodRed)


----------



## Ramzinho

I'm having issues with the silicon insert and Primochill PETG tubing. i read the horror stories about that insert . it basically goes in 2inches and i can't move it past that. i've tried olive oil, soapy water.. nothing works. i tried sanding it down.

I've measured the tubes and they are 9.37mm ID and the silicon tube is 9mm but it wont go in any further?

I can't buy anything locally so i'm stuck anybody got any ideas?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I'm having issues with the silicon insert and Primochill PETG tubing. i read the horror stories about that insert . it basically goes in 2inches and i can't move it past that. i've tried olive oil, soapy water.. nothing works. i tried sanding it down.
> 
> I've measured the tubes and they are 9.37mm ID and the silicon tube is 9mm but it wont go in any further?
> 
> I can't buy anything locally so i'm stuck anybody got any ideas?


LOF but maybe refrigeration?, it may cool the insert enough that it shrinks a little


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Little late posting these in here but got started just have a couple more runs (Big ones) to do and then leak test after filling (plan on leak testing with distilled before I add in the X1 BloodRed)


I'm a little confuzzled. I always thought that the outlet from the reservoir had to go into the centre of the pump/pumptop (where your tubing goes to the gpu)


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I'm a little confuzzled. I always thought that the outlet from the reservoir had to go into the centre of the pump/pumptop (where your tubing goes to the gpu)


Hmm now I'm confused, that Acetal top might be different?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I'm a little confuzzled. I always thought that the outlet from the reservoir had to go into the centre of the pump/pumptop (where your tubing goes to the gpu)
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm now I'm confused, that Acetal top might be different?
Click to expand...

Naaawp, think he's right. GPU to CPU looks fine. Center of Supremacy/EVO blocks is sposed to be Intake. Exhaust on the outside. Looks right.

Or maybe I have my wires crossed. Haven't my 1st cuppa joe yet.









~Ceadder


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Naaawp, think he's right. GPU to CPU looks fine. Center of Supremacy/EVO blocks is sposed to be Intake. Exhaust on the outside. Looks right.
> 
> Or maybe I have my wires crossed. Haven't my 1st cuppa joe yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


One of us hasn't. We are talking about the res feeding into the pumptop. Shouldn't it go to the center?

Although I don't know what top he's using so it might be different.

*EDITChecked, he's using an Alphacool HF D5 TOP)*

Someone's right and someone's wrong, loser gets the cup of Joe!


----------



## Ceadderman

Sounds good. Don't know the AC pump setup so...









~Ceadder


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sounds good. Don't know the AC pump setup so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can't find a manual for it that says...The installation manual just shows the pump to top assembly, no indication of where the tubes go LOL. Useless.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> I'm having issues with the silicon insert and Primochill PETG tubing. i read the horror stories about that insert . it basically goes in 2inches and i can't move it past that. i've tried olive oil, soapy water.. nothing works. i tried sanding it down.
> 
> I've measured the tubes and they are 9.37mm ID and the silicon tube is 9mm but it wont go in any further?
> 
> I can't buy anything locally so i'm stuck anybody got any ideas?


Its not the insert,its the sloppy tolerances Primochill has for their tube,cut 2" off and try again,it will work.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sounds good. Don't know the AC pump setup so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't find a manual for it that says...The installation manual just shows the pump to top assembly, no indication of where the tubes go LOL. Useless.
Click to expand...

Yes it's wrong actually. Now that I have woken up and looked at it longer,the Pump top should either be Square flat side up or the tubes need to be replaced and bent for the correct orientation. Or we'll read... "My loop is finished but there seems to be a problem...".

So yup fellas dead on. Cuz I am pretty certain all that will happen is those lines feed which will go nowhere since the Inlet is covered and flow might actually cause an embolism popping a tube from a fitting from pressure buildup. That's worse case of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

The pump top mentioned has been plumbed to both inlets,all center ports are inlet,all offset ports are outlet. Stands true for all tops pretty much,you cant machine curved port runs for obvious reasons....

The top port in the pic needs to move to the offset port.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The pump top mentioned has been plumbed to both inlets,all center ports are inlet,all offset ports are outlet. Stands true for all tops pretty much,you cant machine curved port runs for obvious reasons....
> 
> The top port in the pic needs to move to the offset port.


You hear that @DarthBaggins??? Calling @DarthBaggins we are trying to save you unless you know something we dont!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Oh ok, was trying to go by the arrows on the top, lol. Luckily it's easy to swap ports







and I haven't filled the loop yet. This is my first time using a D5 pump so all the tips I can get the better. So technically if I've plumbed to both inlets then all I need to move is the line running to the GPU?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I'm a little confuzzled. I always thought that the outlet from the reservoir had to go into the centre of the pump/pumptop (where your tubing goes to the gpu)


Yes, it does.

This is how you should do it ...



http://www.overclock.net/t/1306241/build-log-the-switched-switch-a-reverse-atx-switch-810/

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Oh ok, was trying to go by the arrows on the top, lol. Luckily it's easy to swap ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I haven't filled the loop yet. This is my first time using a D5 pump so all the tips I can get the better. So technically if I've plumbed to both inlets then all I need to move is the line running to the GPU?


Or just rotate your pump top and D5 pump 90 degrees. You MIGHT get lucky and won't have to redo any of the tubing.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*


Has anyone used these yet? I'm wondering if they are easier to work with for 12mm OD acrylic then the Monsoon Mandrel kit. The only place I see them for sale is ModDiy and I haven't had good luck with them.


----------



## Ceadderman

With these or the Monsoon kit?









~Ceadder


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> With these or the Monsoon kit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm wondering if the Barrow kit will work better than the Monsoon Mandrel Kit? The Monsoon will fit the 12mm but it is imperial measurements and leaves some space for a 12mm OD tube to move around. Maybe it would be easier with the Barrow kit as I keep getting indents on some of my tubes from the ends of the Monsoon Mandrels.


----------



## Ceadderman

Try not applying pressure at the ends. It'd happen with the ModDYI mandrels as well if you're applying pressure at the wrong points.

~Ceadder


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Try not applying pressure at the ends. It'd happen with the ModDYI mandrels as well if you're applying pressure at the wrong points.
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm actually getting better, it's just hit and miss with me, I'll get 5 great bends and ruin the sixth. I tried walking the tube around the mandrel and pulling the tube around the top and to the right if that makes sense.







I just thought since these were made especially for the 12mm OD they may improve my luck.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Naaawp, think he's right. GPU to CPU looks fine. Center of Supremacy/EVO blocks is sposed to be Intake. Exhaust on the outside. Looks right.
> 
> Or maybe I have my wires crossed. Haven't my 1st cuppa joe yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> One of us hasn't. We are talking about the res feeding into the pumptop. Shouldn't it go to the center?
> 
> Although I don't know what top he's using so it might be different.
> 
> *EDITChecked, he's using an Alphacool HF D5 TOP)*
> 
> Someone's right and someone's wrong, loser gets the cup of Joe!


I was just about to post that very same image









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sounds good. Don't know the AC pump setup so...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I can't find a manual for it that says...The installation manual just shows the pump to top assembly, no indication of where the tubes go LOL. Useless.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes it's wrong actually. Now that I have woken up and looked at it longer,the Pump top should either be Square flat side up or the tubes need to be replaced and bent for the correct orientation. Or we'll read... "My loop is finished but there seems to be a problem...".
> 
> So yup fellas dead on. Cuz I am pretty certain all that will happen is those lines feed which will go nowhere since the Inlet is covered and flow might actually cause an embolism popping a tube from a fitting from pressure buildup. That's worse case of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> The pump top mentioned has been plumbed to both inlets,all center ports are inlet,all offset ports are outlet. Stands true for all tops pretty much,you cant machine curved port runs for obvious reasons....
> 
> The top port in the pic needs to move to the offset port.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> You hear that @DarthBaggins??? Calling @DarthBaggins we are trying to save you unless you know something we dont!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Oh ok, was trying to go by the arrows on the top, lol. Luckily it's easy to swap ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I haven't filled the loop yet. This is my first time using a D5 pump so all the tips I can get the better. So technically if I've plumbed to both inlets then all I need to move is the line running to the GPU?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Yes, it does.
> 
> This is how you should do it ...
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1306241/build-log-the-switched-switch-a-reverse-atx-switch-810/
> Or just rotate your pump top and D5 pump 90 degrees. You MIGHT get lucky and won't have to redo any of the tubing.


All is good then, I thought I was losing my nuggins


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I was just about to post that very same image
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All is good then, I thought I was losing my nuggins


Well you might be...you just werent wrong about this. Could still be losing it


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Little late posting these in here but got started just have a couple more runs (Big ones) to do and then leak test after filling (plan on leak testing with distilled before I add in the X1 BloodRed)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> I'm a little confuzzled. I always thought that the outlet from the reservoir had to go into the centre of the pump/pumptop (where your tubing goes to the gpu)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Naaawp, think he's right. GPU to CPU looks fine. Center of Supremacy/EVO blocks is sposed to be Intake. Exhaust on the outside. Looks right.
> 
> Or maybe I have my wires crossed. Haven't my 1st cuppa joe yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> One of us hasn't. We are talking about the res feeding into the pumptop. Shouldn't it go to the center?
> 
> Although I don't know what top he's using so it might be different.
> 
> *EDITChecked, he's using an Alphacool HF D5 TOP)*
> 
> Someone's right and someone's wrong, loser gets the cup of Joe!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> You hear that @DarthBaggins??? Calling @DarthBaggins we are trying to save you unless you know something we dont!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Oh ok, was trying to go by the arrows on the top, lol. Luckily it's easy to swap ports
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I haven't filled the loop yet. This is my first time using a D5 pump so all the tips I can get the better. So technically if I've plumbed to both inlets then all I need to move is the line running to the GPU?


The picture looks fine to me. The Alpahcool top has multiple inlets and outlets. As far as I can tell the res is feeding the top inlet port, and the front outlet port is connected to the GPU. It is just an illusion that it looks like it is set wrong.
EK tops don't have the extra ports.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhhhhhh okay, I see the stopper now!







:

~Ceadder


----------



## Ramzinho

Don't You Love Living outside the USA









I'm so frustrated !!!! UGHHHHH
Quote:


> We Have Cancelled Your Order‏
> 
> Hi Ramzy,
> Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from our established customers. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We cannot accept this order or future orders.
> [Censored]


Sorry i wont show the name of the rep .. but it's just frustrating


----------



## IT Diva

Here's a pic from his build log where you can get a better view of the pump top.

You can see that there's a plug in the center inlet, and the outlet that will plumb to the GPU is visible at the upper right of the pump.

It's correctly plumbed, but the perspective of the OP pic leads you down the wrong rabbit hole.

D.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok so I did do it right lol, I plumbed as swimilar to the DDC that I have since I knew the center port was for intake (fluid in) and the outer was for output (fluid out)







Also plan on running some soft tubing to at least get it up and running to ensure the components will be working properly and the current runs wont be leaking, then I'll do the Hardline replacements once everything meets my standards


----------



## p5ych00n5

Aha, all is good then, carry on nothing to see here, and please forgive me Darth, I meant no harm


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Aha, all is good then, carry on nothing to see here, and please forgive me Darth, I meant no harm


Ditto. Think I need Lasik.









~Ceadder


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ditto. Think I need Lasik.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I had Lasik done back in 1999 and love it. One of the best decisions in my life.









When I had it done, they actually shot a video of it being done and gave it to me on VHS. Being the geek I am, I of course encoded it, set it to music (Pink Floyd's "The Final Cut" ... just to be ironic) and uploaded it to Youtube. No blood or anything gross, but interesting if you are considering it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That video goes perfectly with Floyd lol









Another better shot of my pump:


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> That video goes perfectly with Floyd lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another better shot of my pump:


Now I see it


----------



## DarthBaggins

Ok acrylic is officially fun to me, next loop I want to use copper tubing and acrylic


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Ok acrylic is officially fun to me, next loop I want to use copper tubing and acrylic
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That been turning out very nice.

I know I definitely someday want to take a whack at copper or stainless steel. They look so smexy.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like Bneg will have to find a new tubing method. Can't wait to see what he comes up with.









~Calder


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like Bneg will have to find a new tubing method. Can't wait to see what he comes up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Calder


Glass tubes. It is the next logical step.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Glass tubes. It is the next logical step.


Now that would be sweet to see done. In a glass case to boot too.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Now that would be sweet to see done. In a glass case to boot too.


Watercooling inception.



The world isn't ready for that...


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like Bneg will have to find a new tubing method. Can't wait to see what he comes up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Calder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glass tubes. It is the next logical step.
Click to expand...

Tried it.....it didnt end well.

Broke tubes just fitting them,the ones that didnt break...they broke when I moved the rig.

I can get the link of the guys that made the tube for me,it was a lab glass company and they had mad skills.....


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Tried it.....it didnt end well.
> 
> Broke tubes just fitting them,the ones that didnt break...they broke when I moved the rig.
> 
> I can get the link of the guys that made the tube for me,it was a lab glass company and they had mad skills.....


I don't doubt for a second that it wasn't a pain in you know where.

I was 99% joking though and am amazed you gave it a try.


----------



## Domiro

Planning on using plumbing fittings on my second copper build. Helped plumbing a kitchen last week and I like the look of those chunky compression fittings.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like Bneg will have to find a new tubing method. Can't wait to see what he comes up with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Calder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glass tubes. It is the next logical step.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Tried it.....it didnt end well.
> 
> Broke tubes just fitting them,the ones that didnt break...they broke when I moved the rig.
> 
> I can get the link of the guys that made the tube for me,it was a lab glass company and they had mad skills.....
Click to expand...

The trick to getting glass tubing to work would be in fittings made just for glass, where there was NO metal to glass contact at all.

As a high school science nerd, I used to scrounge neon sign transformers from Claude Neon to use for tesla coils, you can make any design you want in glass, even tighter radiuses than with acrylic, and the signage holds up fine in heavy rains, high winds, and all manner of outdoor environment . . . as long as it doesn't bump anything hard like metal . . . think about that huge rubber gasket that fits your windshield in your car's body.

I think the allure of glass in a build would be for the shape options it would give you for a custom res . . . We had a pretty nice glass lab at college where they made all manner of custom glassware for the Chem dept.

Too bad the PC was still 20 years away.

Darlene


----------



## B NEGATIVE

A flexible coupler would of worked but it would be ugly as sin....


----------



## taowulf

Maybe a friction fit that the glass tube slipped over...wouldn't be very secure though...couldn't use anything remotely like a compression fitting.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Maybe a friction fit that the glass tube slipped over...wouldn't be very secure though...couldn't use anything remotely like a compression fitting.


The fitting would have to be outside the tube, not inside . . .

Even pressure applied in compression works to the tube's strength,

With it inside, it'd be even more trouble prone than the female threaded barrows, if that's possible . . .









D.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> The fitting would have to be outside the tube, not inside . . .
> 
> Even pressure applied in compression works to the tubes strength,
> 
> With it inside, it'd be even more trouble prone than the female threaded barrows, if that's possible . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D.


I was trying to think of a way that would avoid squeezing the glass and causing microfractures and ultimately comprimising the glass...but I definitely see you point.

Maybe working the type of connection that is used for brake lines in cars. A collar slipped over the tube similar to Monsoon's fittings...then flare the end of the tube...it would be fun to play with, but ultimately acrylic/PETG is probably going to be easier in the long run.


----------



## Wolfsbora

If only Pyrex did glass tubing. The strength of it would be pretty solid and obviously heat wouldn't be a problem. My friend blows glass, if there is a good fitting solution I may try to throw something simple together with his help.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> If only Pyrex did glass tubing. The strength of it would be pretty solid and obviously heat wouldn't be a problem. My friend blows glass, if there is a good fitting solution I may try to throw something simple together with his help.


It would be interesting, but nearly impossible to do anything other than straight pieces at certain lengths. Not to mention, the fittings would be a bear. Hard to get a a good seal without cracking them and yet good enough so as to not leak.

It would be interesting to see what he has to say though. Would be a really unique build if you could do it and he was able to do custom lengths and bends (you'd most likely have to make templates first then take to him to blow).


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> It would be interesting, but nearly impossible to do anything other than straight pieces at certain lengths. Not to mention, the fittings would be a bear. Hard to get a a good seal without cracking them and yet good enough so as to not leak.
> 
> It would be interesting to see what he has to say though. Would be a really unique build if you could do it and he was able to do custom lengths and bends (you'd most likely have to make templates first then take to him to blow).


For the Pyrex solution you're right, it would have to be straight tube and then adapters and fittings.

As far as the glass blowing, he's done some pretty crazy designs for people with multiple layers and colors. He's gotten quite good. If @IT Diva has a solution for the fittings it would be well worth the effort. Even just for prototype reasons if I can't do anything functioning at the moment.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> If only Pyrex did glass tubing. The strength of it would be pretty solid and obviously heat wouldn't be a problem. My friend blows glass, if there is a good fitting solution I may try to throw something simple together with his help.
> 
> 
> 
> It would be interesting, but nearly impossible to do anything other than straight pieces at certain lengths. Not to mention, the fittings would be a bear. Hard to get a a good seal without cracking them and yet good enough so as to not leak.
> 
> It would be interesting to see what he has to say though. Would be a really unique build if you could do it and he was able to do custom lengths and bends (you'd most likely have to make templates first then take to him to blow).
Click to expand...

Can't say for sure if the tubes I had made were Pyrex but it was easy to cut with a jewellers rope,you don't need 'specialist' tools. The parts I had formed were direct copies of copper tubes I made and he used as a template. The problem,as I saw it at the time,was the shear stresses involved. I might revisit it when my time isn't filled with builds...


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> It would be interesting, but nearly impossible to do anything other than straight pieces at certain lengths. Not to mention, the fittings would be a bear. Hard to get a a good seal without cracking them and yet good enough so as to not leak.
> 
> It would be interesting to see what he has to say though. Would be a really unique build if you could do it and he was able to do custom lengths and bends (you'd most likely have to make templates first then take to him to blow).
> 
> 
> 
> For the Pyrex solution you're right, it would have to be straight tube and then adapters and fittings.
> 
> As far as the glass blowing, he's done some pretty crazy designs for people with multiple layers and colors. He's gotten quite good*. If @IT Diva has a solution for the fittings it would be well worth the effort. Even just for prototype reasons if I can't do anything functioning at the moment*.
Click to expand...

I actually gave this a bit of thought . . . .

To get a bit exotic and custom,

Using the Monsoon fittings with the face sealing o ring, the ones for the glue on ends fittings, . . .

Then heat and flange the end of the tube so it could be ground flat . . .

Then use a metal collar with an o ring behind the flange to hold it against the base fitting . . .

If you could flange the tube with the back side of the flanges being consistent enough that the hold down o ring creates even pressure, that could work . . .

In reality, with the compression o ring fittings we have for acrylic now, that didn't exist just a few short years ago, like BP enhanced or Primochill's offerings, . . . as long as the tube wasn't seated against the metal part of the fitting, that would be worth some experimentation for sure.

To expand on that concept, . . .

Maybe use 5/8 or 16mm fittings with 1/2 or 12mm tubing and design a unique rubber seal that keeps the tube from seating against the metal at the bottom, and has a collar to keep the glass tube from hitting the ID of the metal screw down collar

Darlene


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I actually gave this a bit of thought . . . .
> 
> To get a bit exotic and custom,
> 
> Using the Monsoon fittings with the face sealing o ring, the ones for the glue on ends fittings, . . .
> 
> Then heat and flange the end of the tube so it could be ground flat . . .
> 
> Then use a metal collar with an o ring behind the flange to hold it against the base fitting . . .
> 
> If you could flange the tube with the back side of the flanges being consistent enough that the hold down o ring creates even pressure, that could work . . .
> 
> In reality, with the compression o ring fittings we have for acrylic now, that didn't exist just a few short years ago, like BP enhanced or Primochill's offerings, . . . as long as the tube wasn't seated against the metal part of the fitting, that would be worth some experimentation for sure.
> 
> To expand on that concept, . . .
> 
> Maybe use 5/8 or 16mm fittings with 1/2 or 12mm tubing and design a unique rubber seal that keeps the tube from seating against the metal at the bottom, and has a collar to keep the glass tube from hitting the ID of the metal screw down collar
> 
> Darlene


I am liking this idea more and more...


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

5/8" OD Pyrex tubing anyone?









http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/361265104966

http://www.waleapparatus.com/catalog.asp?prodid=547975


----------



## taowulf

Going with Darlene's ideas, couldn't a glassblower/worker type person integrate a Monsoon style end on the glass tube to make the glass tube work easily with the monsoon fittings? I know they can work miracles with glass







but I don't know any glass specialists personally and have none on speed dial. And can they even work Pyrex like standard glass?


----------



## B NEGATIVE

I used these guys.

http://www.scientificglass.co.uk/


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

I'm thinking with the 5/8" OD Pyrex, you might be able to use the Monsoon fittings "as is".






Using these ...

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/22848/ex-tub-2707/Monsoon_Hardline_Compression_Conversion_Kit_-_58_OD_16mm_-_6_Pack_PBH-1258-6.html



As far as bending, well, that doesn't look that hard either ...


----------



## lever2stacks

I'm a glass blower it's my job. It may not look hard bending glass but it's harder than it looks. pyrex is just a brand name you guys are looking for borosilicate hard glass with a c.o.e.33 that's what pyrex is made of but there are many other brands that are way better. pyrex had went down hill after setting up all their factories in china.

The guy in that video didn't bend that tubing properly at all you need to heat up way more of a section to get a smooth and non kinked bend with no stress in the glass. And of course you will need a kiln to anneal the glass properly after you've done your bend. plus ultimately you will need some type of blow hose with a swivel to be able to inflate the molten parts so it does not collapse on itself. I've been thinking about building a loop with glass tubing the only thing that has held me back is what fittings to use.


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I'm a glass blower it's my job. It may not look hard bending glass but it's harder than it looks. pyrex is just a brand name you guys are looking for borosilicate hard glass with a c.o.e.33 that's what pyrex is made of but there are many other brands that are way better. pyrex had went down hill after setting up all their factories in china.
> 
> The guy in that video didn't bend that tubing properly at all you need to heat up way more of a section to get a smooth and non kinked bend with no stress in the glass. And of course you will need a kiln to anneal the glass properly after you've done your bend. plus ultimately you will need some type of blow hose with a swivel to be able to inflate the molten parts so it does not collapse on itself. I've been thinking about building a loop with glass tubing the only thing that has held me back is what fittings to use.


Good to know. I don't know the first thing about it, just did a bit of research to see if things MIGHT go together.

I wonder if there is something that would be able to withstand the heat that is takes to melt the glass (I have no idea what temp that is) ... sort of like what we use to keep acrylic from deforming.

As far as the anneling after bending, maybe a person could either find a local glass shop or sent the bent items off to be anneled. That would cost, but it would be a lot less expensive than buying a kiln.

If you give it a dance, by all means tell us if it'll work. It APPEARS that the Monsoon fitting may work ... MAY.

I'd love to know.


----------



## lever2stacks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Good to know. I don't know the first thing about it, just did a bit of research to see if things MIGHT go together.
> 
> I wonder if there is something that would be able to withstand the heat that is takes to melt the glass (I have no idea what temp that is) ... sort of like what we use to keep acrylic from deforming.
> 
> As far as the anneling after bending, maybe a person could either find a local glass shop or sent the bent items off to be anneled. That would cost, but it would be a lot less expensive than buying a kiln.
> 
> If you give it a dance, by all means tell us if it'll work. It APPEARS that the Monsoon fitting may work ... MAY.
> 
> I'd love to know.


Glass will start to move around 1400f and get completely molten at around 1800-2000f depending on wall thickness (around 1700f should be perfect for a bend). Anything inserted into the tubing will catch fire way before you reach the bending temp. A swivel and blow hose setup are relatively cheap around 20 bucks for a cheap one.

Yeah kilns aren't cheap you would be way better off finding a glassblower local or somewhat local to do the annealing for you.

I have a whole bunch of monsoon fittings I bought for my build but went with bitspower instead so I never used the monsoon. I've got plenty of 12.7 tubing which is the size of the monsoon I believe, I think I might give it a whirl to see what happens.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> I have a whole bunch of monsoon fittings I bought for my build but went with bitspower instead so I never used the monsoon. I've got plenty of 12.7 tubing which is the size of the monsoon I believe, I think I might give it a whirl to see what happens.


Please. For science.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lever2stacks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Good to know. I don't know the first thing about it, just did a bit of research to see if things MIGHT go together.
> 
> I wonder if there is something that would be able to withstand the heat that is takes to melt the glass (I have no idea what temp that is) ... sort of like what we use to keep acrylic from deforming.
> 
> As far as the anneling after bending, maybe a person could either find a local glass shop or sent the bent items off to be anneled. That would cost, but it would be a lot less expensive than buying a kiln.
> 
> If you give it a dance, by all means tell us if it'll work. It APPEARS that the Monsoon fitting may work ... MAY.
> 
> I'd love to know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glass will start to move around 1400f and get completely molten at around 1800-2000f depending on wall thickness (around 1700f should be perfect for a bend). Anything inserted into the tubing will catch fire way before you reach the bending temp. A swivel and blow hose setup are relatively cheap around 20 bucks for a cheap one.
> 
> Yeah kilns aren't cheap you would be way better off finding a glassblower local or somewhat local to do the annealing for you.
> 
> I have a whole bunch of monsoon fittings I bought for my build but went with bitspower instead so I never used the monsoon. I've got plenty of 12.7 tubing which is the size of the monsoon I believe, *I think I might give it a whirl to see what happens.*
Click to expand...

By all means,as you have the technical aspects and know how,I would like to see your results.


----------



## l3p

For anyone using acrylic or PETG, found a nice little tool to quickly deburr or trim.


----------



## DarthBaggins

What's that drill adapter called?


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> What's that drill adapter called?


Look for something called a chamfer and deburring tool.

I use a similar one on my drill. Got it years ago from a reloading store for hand loading gun ammo. I use it for both rigid tubing as well as cleaning up the neck on a shell casing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l3p*
> 
> For anyone using acrylic or PETG, found a nice little tool to quickly deburr or trim.


I want one! How much an who carries it!









~Ceadder


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

$10.99, Midway USA.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/295771/possum-hollow-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-power-adapter

plus the deburring tool ... $17.79

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/364181/forster-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-17-to-45-caliber

Here is the one in the video, but God knows who carries it ... http://www.henco.be/nl/product_/ks-m/17002/

Holy heck, they want £179.69 for that!

http://hencoplastics.com/EN/ProductDetails?Id=9e5d1350-0b61-495c-84d7-5b80df519563&Rid=170fc9f7-1f90-44c2-bf9c-81c52bdf17fc

Found it cheaper, but still $42 plus shipping.

http://hardware.be/henco/ks12m.html


----------



## Ceadderman

That Dutch site only showed 012 as their smallest, since the guy never showed the opening of that tool, I can only assume anything smaller than 12mm tubing is outta luck.









Or am I overthinking this









+Rep for tha work.

~Ceadder


----------



## l3p

Sorry, Henco was in the YT video description.

The 012 is only meant for 12/10, anything thinner won't go in.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l3p*
> 
> The 012 is only meant for 12/10, anything thinner won't go in.


That's what I thought. So that means 3/8" tubing is out of luck or is there one not listed on the Dutch site that could handle that.

I will be watercooling my wife and daughter's computers when they're built and since neither do anything serious I'm gonna go 3/8" for their runs. I have 12/10 for my build so that works fine for mine and other systems I will be working in but yeah...









~Ceadder


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I want one! How much an who carries it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That was my exact thought.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I want to go to the rigid tube and I have some questions.

Is what I can use fittings and tubes of different brands (all 2 in 10/16)?
Do you have any tips for doing the "angles" and especially for the tubes are perfectly aligned with Fittings?

Thanks for your help


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really as long as the measurements are correct for the OD on the tubing and w/ the fittings you should be fine, on the bends and such all I can say is measure, measure, and measure some more. Also patience is key as well.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Really as long as the measurements are correct for the OD on the tubing and w/ the fittings you should be fine, on the bends and such all I can say is measure, measure, and measure some more. Also patience is key as well.


Thank you for your reply

The fittings and tubes would be Ek Waterblock in 12/16, but I would just take a Mooson tube in 12/16 (longer than Ek Waterblock)


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know Mick @ Mayhems is working on his own line of hardline as well, but monsoon makes a good product as well


----------



## gdubc

Mayhems will be a borosilicate glass tube though, funnily enough with the recent discussions on glass tube.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *47 Knucklehead*
> 
> Found it cheaper, but still $42 plus shipping. http://hardware.be/henco/ks12m.html


For Europeans: Highflow is now carrying both 12mm and 16mm deburrer. Same price as that Belgian site but can consolidate postage if you are ordering watercooling stuff from Highflow anyway ...


----------



## tistou77

Hello

With a view to make an installation Acrylic, I need some advice.
I saw the "PETG" is better than Acrylic (resistance, bending, etc ...)

- For the first time, Is it that with acrylic tubes (EK waterblock), I will have problems?
- With acrylic, I can make bends of over 90° (I like to do a bending in U between the waterblock MOS and CPU, it is possible)?

As this mod






Thank you for your help


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yes 90's are posible with acrylic : did quite a few in my build







also had very little issues using it once I got my measurements down for my runs and all


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yes 90's are posible with acrylic : did quite a few in my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also had very little issues using it once I got my measurements down for my runs and all
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I really love what you did with My old M8


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> With a view to make an installation Acrylic, I need some advice.
> I saw the "PETG" is better than Acrylic (resistance, bending, etc ...)
> 
> - For the first time, Is it that with acrylic tubes (EK waterblock), I will have problems?
> - With acrylic, I can make bends of over 90° (I like to do a bending in U between the waterblock MOS and CPU, it is possible)?
> 
> As this mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your help


I've done 180 degree bends with acrylic.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> With a view to make an installation Acrylic, I need some advice.
> I saw the "PETG" is better than Acrylic (resistance, bending, etc ...)
> 
> - For the first time, Is it that with acrylic tubes (EK waterblock), I will have problems?
> - With acrylic, I can make bends of over 90° (I like to do a bending in U between the waterblock MOS and CPU, it is possible)?
> 
> As this mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your help


Ezpz. Ok well maybe not easy...but doable for sure.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I really love what you did with My old M8


It's been a great case to build in


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's been a great case to build in


Good,

Did you see where I am getting rid of one of my original Titans?? Trying to get enough between all my sales to get my second TiTan X


----------



## DarthBaggins

lol I did see that, trying to offload my 4790k/board/and some memory to trade for a 980 at the moment









Also just realized since I'm tearing down the R.C70, I might want to move my temp sensors into the M8 since I have a coolant temp and multiple external temp sensors at my disposal


----------



## tistou77

Thanks for your feedback
I'll take the Ek Waterblock tube (12/16) and try to do my best


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> It's been a great case to build in


Speaking of cases alittle ot but has to do with hard line bending. What our some good cases for water cooling. Wanna change from my enthoo pro but can't afford a sma8 yet with buying a house and the gf a ring at the same time. It any advise to get the double bend from gpu to top rad flat meaning 90 from gpu to the back of the case than 90 up. There isn't much room between the bends which is why I haven been able to do it the way I wanted atleast yet


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Speaking of cases alittle ot but has to do with hard line bending. What our some good cases for water cooling. Wanna change from my enthoo pro but can't afford a sma8 yet with buying a house and the gf a ring at the same time. It any advise to get the double bend from gpu to top rad flat meaning 90 from gpu to the back of the case than 90 up. There isn't much room between the bends which is why I haven been able to do it the way I wanted atleast yet


get a case and not the ring!!


----------



## Ceadderman

People think they're ugly but HAF cases are pretty good and pretty cheaply.

If cost is no worry then Caselabs and Silverstone TJ cases are good too. If you can still get those Silverstone cases anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> People think they're ugly but HAF cases are pretty good and pretty cheaply.
> 
> If cost is no worry then Caselabs and Silverstone TJ cases are good too. If you can still get those Silverstone cases anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My OG HAF case has endured an uber amount of builds and is a former shadow of itself, poked and prodded, drilled and gouged it's still going strong


----------



## XKaan

I miss the CM Stacker EVO - was one of the best cases I ever had! There was a company that was selling them with sick custom paint jobs - but I forgot who it was. I went to the Noreaster LAN way back in 06 I think, and they had a bunch on display.

With computex I was also hoping for a new Cosmos, but oh well!

EDIT - found the one I really liked..


----------



## DarthBaggins

On mine you can see two of the 90's I did to the rear of the case, but there is a third for it to run down the back of the mobo. I did my first 90, marked where the 2nd needed to start & end the 90's. Big key for me was measuring and mocking it up and in the end made acrylic easy to use and I'll be using it from now on (or copper tubing)


----------



## doogk

Got my Monsoon kit in today, everything seems great except for the cutting of the tube.

Will one of these http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-104-Tubing-Cutter-32985/100021967 work any good for the petg tubing?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> Got my Monsoon kit in today, everything seems great except for the cutting of the tube.
> 
> Will one of these http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-104-Tubing-Cutter-32985/100021967 work any good for the petg tubing?


No sorry it will break it! Just going to have to take the time to cut it with saw


----------



## doogk

Just seen this post on reddit about the monsoon fittings, I just bought 12 of them to go in my next build, kind of scared now. Anyone here using them?

http://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/299zrm/discussion_i_will_never_buy_monsoon_products/


----------



## Ceadderman

I basically have this.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Stanley-Deluxe-Miter-Box-with-Saw-20-600D/100034395

My miterbox is less than this one but it works because I applied Frogtape to the bed of the Monsoon cutting jig and hold it close to the pull side of the box by hand and let the saw do the work.









Only way to get a better cut is to get a hobbyists chop saw and clamp the stock in place to get a stable cut.









~Ceadder







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> Just seen this post on reddit about the monsoon fittings, I just bought 12 of them to go in my next build, kind of scared now. Anyone here using them?
> 
> http://www.reddit.com/r/watercooling/comments/299zrm/discussion_i_will_never_buy_monsoon_products/


Can't say I blame the fittings after seeing those pics of his tubing runs. Not that they aren't the cause but did you see all the kinks in the tubing? Seems to me to be a 50/50 issue based on his lack of experience with Acrylic. I'm certainly no Pro at it but you can clearly see that he didn't heat the tubing long enough when you see kinks that look like he's building an accordian.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> My OG HAF case has endured an uber amount of builds and is a former shadow of itself, poked and prodded, drilled and gouged it's still going strong


Agree, not a bad case. Still rocking mine to this day and still plan to rock it for good few more years. Just need to finish the modding on it.





Just need to get a more water cooling freindly case for my folder since I do have plans to smack more GPUs into that rig.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Agree, not a bad case. Still rocking mine to this day and still plan to rock it for good few more years. Just need to finish the modding on it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need to get a more water cooling freindly case for my folder since I do have plans to smack more GPUs into that rig.


Ooooh I do like the side panel mod, alas I do not have a rotary to carve mine up


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Ooooh I do like the side panel mod, alas I do not have a rotary to carve mine up


I did not either, so I had a metal shop do two mods for me. Cut the side and cut the top part of the case to allow the 360 radiator bracket I had them make for me. Only thing I did was glue the acrylic panel on.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> Can't say I blame the fittings after seeing those pics of his tubing runs. Not that they aren't the cause but did you see all the kinks in the tubing? Seems to me to be a 50/50 issue based on his lack of experience with Acrylic. I'm certainly no Pro at it but you can clearly see that he didn't heat the tubing long enough when you see kinks that look like he's building an accordian.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I dont see obvious kinks in the tubing and this is not the first nor second time ive heard about those collars cracking. Id be interested in what adhesive he used but i think anyone who realizes they have to glue something to the acrylic to seal it should have alarm bells ringing already.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I dont see obvious kinks in the tubing and this is not the first nor second time ive heard about those collars cracking. Id be interested in what adhesive he used but i think anyone who realizes they have to glue something to the acrylic to seal it should have alarm bells ringing already.


it is not being glued, it actually is being welded as the adhesive melts the 2 together. I have had the collars crack on me and most of it is because there is not as much room for error with this system. I do like it and think it is a wonderful idea but if your bends are off you will put un-needed stress on the collars! the new collars are not so rigid and flex a little so this helps!


----------



## electro2u

Well they certainly arent the best bends and the ends dont look well deburred if at all. I expect he did do something wrong the point is it's complicated and unnecessary to bother with adhesives.

I think glue is a verb that can just mean "join 2 things".


----------



## doogk

I guess Im going to return the monsoon fittings I just bought and get some bitspower or EK ones.

Will my 1/2 x 5/8 tubing from Monsoon work with the 12mm x 16mm fittings?

edit-

So the economy monsoon fittings dont use the glued on piece.....I was about to get those too instead of the others, dang.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> Can't say I blame the fittings after seeing those pics of his tubing runs. Not that they aren't the cause but did you see all the kinks in the tubing? Seems to me to be a 50/50 issue based on his lack of experience with Acrylic. I'm certainly no Pro at it but you can clearly see that he didn't heat the tubing long enough when you see kinks that look like he's building an accordian.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont see obvious kinks in the tubing and this is not the first nor second time ive heard about those collars cracking. Id be interested in what adhesive he used but i think anyone who realizes they have to glue something to the acrylic to seal it should have alarm bells ringing already.
Click to expand...



Look at the corne bends. I see what I consider obvious kinkage going on.

Also, another thing I believe is possible. He might have used too much UV Adhesive which cured and put pressure against the inside of the plastic collar, water penetrates the fissures in the adhesive and in turn cracked the collar forcing the leak. Nothing wrong with the fittings themselves. It's not hard to figure out how the cracks could develop.

~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the corne bends. I see what I consider obvious kinkage going on.
> 
> Also, another thing I believe is possible. He might have used too much UV Adhesive which cured and put pressure against the inside of the plastic collar, water penetrates the fissures in the adhesive and in turn cracked the collar forcing the leak. Nothing wrong with the fittings themselves. It's not hard to figure out how the cracks could develop.
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree with you and know from experience with these unless your bends are absolutely perfect it puts un-needed stress on the collars that can crack them!! too much adhesive could cause this too














I had not though of that as I have had problems with them cracking but since they have changed the material of the collars to something that is a little more flexible so it is harder to do this! got to stop the drinking with new baby!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

on the kink in the bend is why you want the tube to be noodle like before you apply the bend, just glad w/ the primochill ghost fittings I didn't have to apply any adheasive either.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the corne bends. I see what I consider obvious kinkage going on.
> 
> Also, another thing I believe is possible. He might have used too much UV Adhesive which cured and put pressure against the inside of the plastic collar, water penetrates the fissures in the adhesive and in turn cracked the collar forcing the leak. Nothing wrong with the fittings themselves. It's not hard to figure out how the cracks could develop.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with you and know from experience with these unless your bends are absolutely perfect it puts un-needed stress on the collars that can crack them!! too much adhesive could cause this too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not though of that as I have had problems with them cracking but since they have changed the material of the collars to something that is a little more flexible so it is harder to do this! got to stop the drinking with new baby!!
Click to expand...

LOL. I'm balmy from lack of sleep. My wife had gestational diabetes during final trimester and the nurse have been poking the heck out of his little feet to get bloodsugar levels.









It's enough to make me throw somebody out tha window.







At least they don't have far to fall. Room is street level.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

They had to do that to my son too, but it was due to his blood sugar was just below average and on the 2nd to last day at the hospital he finally started getting the full nutrients he needed so we were happy when he didn't have to have his lil feet pricked. Also want to slap the photographer that came by ad 5:30am (we had just gotten back to sleep after a feeding lol)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> LOL. I'm balmy from lack of sleep. My wife had gestational diabetes during final trimester and the nurse have been poking the heck out of his little feet to get bloodsugar levels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's enough to make me throw somebody out tha window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least they don't have far to fall. Room is street level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Both of mine did also but never any problems with baby!! I know what you mean about wanting to hurt some one that is hurting you baby!!!


----------



## WiSK

Looking at the photos I think the places where Loki_racer has attached the lock collars, some are certainly too close to the bends and probably no longer perfectly round.

You know he made a thread on OCN as well and said that Monsoon wasn't getting back to him on support. From what I remember of the thread he got water on his GPU. But that's weird because the owner Gene is well known for handling customer support issues personally. I had a wrong fitting in the box once and Gene overnighted me a new fitting directly from Hong Kong. Also corresponded with him about a flaw in the original Monsoon LED plugs before Gene changed the design to be entirely waterproof.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> LOL. I'm balmy from lack of sleep. My wife had gestational diabetes during final trimester and the nurse have been poking the heck out of his little feet to get bloodsugar levels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's enough to make me throw somebody out tha window.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least they don't have far to fall. Room is street level.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both of mine did also but never any problems with baby!! I know what you mean about wanting to hurt some one that is hurting you baby!!!
Click to expand...

my Wife finally had had enough and told the Nurse that he will *not* be getting another one of those aweful sticks. It's not too bad when they get it right but when they can't get enough blood to test they stick him again. One nurse hit his little foot 3 times an squeezed the hades out of his foot. He simply puts up with the sticks but he lets off a holler when they squeeze too hard. His gramma was getting emotional an the only reason I didn't get angry was cause he was in my arms when she was doing it. I am not putting him in the middle of an issue if I can help it.









Well anyway, yeah the other three pics don't clearly show the problem but one of them if you look in front of the collar you can see a slight blem in the tubing run as well. So yeah.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Looking at the photos I think the places where Loki_racer has attached the lock collars, some are certainly too close to the bends and probably no longer perfectly round.
> 
> You know he made a thread on OCN as well and said that Monsoon wasn't getting back to him on support. From what I remember of the thread he got water on his GPU. But that's weird because the owner Gene is well known for handling customer support issues personally. I had a wrong fitting in the box once and Gene overnighted me a new fitting directly from Hong Kong. Also corresponded with him about a flaw in the original Monsoon LED plugs before Gene changed the design to be entirely waterproof.


I agree Gene has always been awesome with me and we worked together for almost a month trying to figure out what was wrong with my collars, I sent them to him (cracked ones) and he sent them to who made the glue to have this tested, we looked at using bigger o-rings so it would have more flex and tried several other things and he decided to change the collars to one that is more flexible. but he helped me and helped me get some of the new collars and lots of items.. so like you stated he is awesome to work with!!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I agree Gene has always been awesome with me and we worked together for almost a month trying to figure out what was wrong with my collars, I sent them to him (cracked ones) and he sent them to who made the glue to have this tested, we looked at using bigger o-rings so it would have more flex and tried several other things and he decided to change the collars to one that is more flexible. but he helped me and helped me get some of the new collars and lots of items.. so like you stated he is awesome to work with!!




I'm going to have to send him a pm maybe. He hasn't been on OCN in a while though. I got all these when they first came out but my kids health issues have kept me from building. I have so many I don't really want to have to spend an extra $4 per box for new collars, that would be over $100 easy and I already spent a small fortune on them lol! I just wouldn't feel comfortable as a first time bender using the old collars however.

Edit: sorry bad pic. Not home right now but that's the only pic I had in my phone, the drawer is full of Monsoon lol


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to have to send him a pm maybe. He hasn't been on OCN in a while though. I got all these when they first came out but my kids health issues have kept me from building. I have so many I don't really want to have to spend an extra $4 per box for new collars, that would be over $100 easy and I already spent a small fortune on them lol! I just wouldn't feel comfortable as a first time bender using the old collars however.
> 
> Edit: sorry bad pic. Not home right now but that's the only pic I had in my phone, the drawer is full of Monsoon lol


If all the bends are perfect you should not have any problems!!


----------



## gdubc

Haha, ya, but the way I see it, if they gave you trouble, a noob like myself should be more than a little worried! To much irreplaceable hardware to risk...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Haha, ya, but the way I see it, if they gave you trouble, a noob like myself should be more than a little worried! To much irreplaceable hardware to risk...


Use the economy fittings they are easier and more forgiveing


----------



## emsj86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> Got my Monsoon kit in today, everything seems great except for the cutting of the tube.
> 
> Will one of these http://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-104-Tubing-Cutter-32985/100021967 work any good for the petg tubing?


While I don't recommend them and best to use a saw or better yet use a hack saw with a thin tooth blade (what I use takes seconds and cuts straight. Can get a cheap ryobi one that is corded at Home Depot for 30usd. I use a one handed Milwaukee as I use it for work as well) but I have seen videos of people use the tubing cutter on petg but it can't work on acrylic. See jayztwocents on outune for proof of using one on petg tubing just have to righting slowly as to not pinch the tubing


----------



## DarthBaggins

Or this lil guy would work great







2in bench top saw


----------



## emsj86

Perfect


----------



## DarthBaggins

And it's only $30


----------



## 47 Knucklehead

Harbor Freight + Made In China = cheap stuff that will actually do the job for you.

I have a couple of HF tools, not the best, but they get the job done.

I may have to pick this up for giggles.

Thanks.


----------



## doogk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Or this lil guy would work great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2in bench top saw


Thats cute


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah HF tools aren't always the best, but for the price the do the trick when needed. Also they're pretty good about honoring their warranties


----------



## emsj86

Hf from being in a field where I use alit of tools is good for tools you don't use everyday and don't wanna spend a lot on them. If you use them day in and day it they always break.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yup my primary tools come from Matco & Snap-On


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Hf from being in a field where I use alit of tools is good for tools you don't use everyday and don't wanna spend a lot on them. If you use them day in and day it they always break.


Agree with this entirely.

They vibrate like crazy and are balanced like crap, but for occasional usage they do the job very well.

If your a handyman by trade theyll ruin your business. Lol


----------



## doogk

Ive been playing with my tubing and monsoon kit.

Ive come to a way better way to cut the tubing.

You take the tube cutter and clamp it on your mark and roll it around, with it on the rollers it makes a perfectly square score. Dont go too deep because it leaves a bad bevel with that blade.

you just want it deep enough for the other kind of tube cutter to ride in the score mark. Take the other tube cutter and barely apply pressure while rolling it(it stays in the score mark easy). It cuts through easily and leaves a cut like below. There has been nothing done to either one of the cuts below.



cut with monsoon miter box and included saw


cut with tube cutters


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> Ive been playing with my tubing and monsoon kit.
> 
> Ive come to a way better way to cut the tubing.
> 
> You take the tube cutter and clamp it on your mark and roll it around, with it on the rollers it makes a perfectly square score. Dont go too deep because it leaves a bad bevel with that blade.
> 
> you just want it deep enough for the other kind of tube cutter to ride in the score mark. Take the other tube cutter and barely apply pressure while rolling it(it stays in the score mark easy). It cuts through easily and leaves a cut like below. There has been nothing done to either one of the cuts below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cut with monsoon miter box and included saw
> 
> 
> cut with tube cutters


So a soft tubing cutter to cut hardline eh?









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> Ive been playing with my tubing and monsoon kit.
> 
> Ive come to a way better way to cut the tubing.
> 
> You take the tube cutter and clamp it on your mark and roll it around, with it on the rollers it makes a perfectly square score. Dont go too deep because it leaves a bad bevel with that blade.
> 
> you just want it deep enough for the other kind of tube cutter to ride in the score mark. Take the other tube cutter and barely apply pressure while rolling it(it stays in the score mark easy). It cuts through easily and leaves a cut like below. There has been nothing done to either one of the cuts below.
> 
> 
> 
> cut with monsoon miter box and included saw
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cut with tube cutters


Good cut but can see where the wheel was on the tubing be careful of this and glad you got it to work!!


----------



## doogk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Good cut but can see where the wheel was on the tubing be careful of this and glad you got it to work!!


yeah thats the only one of the cuts that you can see that line and you can't feel anything there so Im not sure what that line was.

Just did 3 bends, pretty decent looking, how wide you yall guys heatup, I was barely moving back and forth as I was rolling it.


----------



## doogk

been having tons of fun making bends. Waiting on my fittings to do final measurements.

This is probably the most complicated bend in my new build, Measurements came out perfect, ends just need to be trimmed to final lengths.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> been having tons of fun making bends. Waiting on my fittings to do final measurements.
> 
> This is probably the most complicated bend in my new build, Measurements came out perfect, ends just need to be trimmed to final lengths.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good job on the bends look good and neat. I am jelly you have more patients than I do with this...


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> how wide you yall guys heatup, I was barely moving back and forth as I was rolling it.


Depends on the bend. If you're making 1 90/45bend probably 3 inches or so. If you're trying for a large radius 90 or 180 maybe more like five inches.

A multiple bend at one section will probably be more thatn that.

It really just boils dowwn to the ype of bemd and radius how much you should heat up.

Beware of heating up too small a section theough because after you finish you will probably see stress marks or some folding in the acrylic if you didnt heat up enough material.


----------



## RpeeKooz

hey guys..just looking to add a ram block and change my loop a little bit..im using acrylic atm but i cant find any of that in Australia..i can only find the petg is it ok to have half a loop of petg and half of arcylic ?????
cheers


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't see why not but I recommend changing out the Acrylic with the PETG since the latter is proven to be more durable. So if you can only get PETG that's what you should do instead.









~Ceadder


----------



## doogk

Yeah this PETG is a beast, Ive beat on it with a hammer and it doesnt do anything


----------



## doogk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Good job on the bends look good and neat. I am jelly you have more patients than I do with this...


Thanks, I have ton of patience as long as I am working on it. Waiting on these fittings and radiators to come in is killing me though.


----------



## RpeeKooz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't see why not but I recommend changing out the Acrylic with the PETG since the latter is proven to be more durable. So if you can only get PETG that's what you should do instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I've got a 4 pack left of acrylic so hopefully that will be enough...thanks


----------



## shimeng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doogk*
> 
> Ive been playing with my tubing and monsoon kit.
> 
> Ive come to a way better way to cut the tubing....


Is that acrylic or PETG?


----------



## doogk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shimeng*
> 
> Is that acrylic or PETG?


PETG, im pretty sure it wouldnt work at all for acrylic as it would crack to easy.


----------



## pphx459

I have a dark looking scratch inside one of my acrylic tubes. I'm not even sure it's a scratch, could be residue from the silicon, but let's say it's a scratch, would it eventually crack with water going through it ? The scratch is about 1/4 the circumference of the 12mm tube. I would post a pic but I don't have a good camera on me atm,


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pphx459*
> 
> I have a dark looking scratch inside one of my acrylic tubes. I'm not even sure it's a scratch, could be residue from the silicon, but let's say it's a scratch, would it eventually crack with water going through it ? The scratch is about 1/4 the circumference of the 12mm tube. I would post a pic but I don't have a good camera on me atm,


Do you have more tube?

I would replace it out of general good practice.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Do you have more tube?
> 
> I would replace it out of general good practice.


Definitely listen to B Neg on this.

If it is in fact a crack, yes, it will leak. If it isn't a crack, it sounds like something that could cause a clog or may be a pump's worst nightmare. Regardless, fixing it now will save you from many headaches down the road.


----------



## Ceadderman

Monsoon PETG is now available @ PPCs!









~Ceadder


----------



## gunslinger0077

is it normal for petg tubing to swell a little where you bend it?

I think my silicone insert is a little to small its monsoon and tube is primochill.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunslinger0077*
> 
> is it normal for petg tubing to swell a little where you bend it?
> 
> I think my silicone insert is a little to small its monsoon and tube is primochill.


I havent used petg yet but for acrylic it comes down to technique. I had some come out where at the bend its wider than the rest of the tube. Redid the worst offenders


----------



## Wolfsbora

The swelling on PETG and acrylic is most likely due to overheating. The insert should still work as it doesn't have to be snug. It wouldn't cause that issue. Heat up a 3" section surrounding the bend. Keep the tube a few inches above the heat gun, you do not want it close. At a steady speed, rotate the tube and heat that entire 3" area. Take your time and be patient. You'll know to bend right at the second it starts to not be able to hold its own weight. Then slowly bend it around the mandrel. Remember: it's all about patience when it comes to hard tubing.


----------



## doogk

Got all my tubing ran and my computer back on. Wont ever go back to soft tubing again. I'll get some more pictures later of the other side and stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

Is that a 35 reverse 45 degree bend I see? Boy that looks sharp. Must a been hades to get that one perfected. Looks great!









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah I can say I will not run soft anymore (other than in my pedestal for maintenance reasons), hardline is just too much fun to run and more rewarding in the end.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I'm going to try hard lines. I bought stuff for soft, but the clouding/plasticizer funk kinda took the wind out of my sails for that.

I've done industrial conduit bending, instrument copper and SS tubing, and blown glass tubes for neon lights*, looks like I need to learn a new tube bending technique.

* Never at a "pro" level. That takes years as an apprentice to get anywhere near good enough to make the bends for a water loop.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah I can say I will not run soft anymore (other than in my pedestal for maintenance reasons), hardline is just too much fun to run and more rewarding in the end.


Fun? Debatable. Good looking? Definitely.


----------



## doogk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a 35 reverse 45 degree bend I see? Boy that looks sharp. Must a been hades to get that one perfected. Looks great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Would you believe me when I said it came out perfect on the first try?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'm going to try hard lines. I bought stuff for soft, but the clouding/plasticizer funk kinda took the wind out of my sails for that.
> 
> I've done industrial conduit bending, instrument copper and SS tubing, and blown glass tubes for neon lights*, looks like I need to learn a new tube bending technique.
> 
> * Never at a "pro" level. That takes years as an apprentice to get anywhere near good enough to make the bends for a water loop.


You should be able to knock it out pretty easy then.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Fun? Debatable. Good looking? Definitely.


I thought it was great fun.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'm going to try hard lines. I bought stuff for soft, but the clouding/plasticizer funk kinda took the wind out of my sails for that.
> 
> I've done industrial conduit bending, instrument copper and SS tubing, and blown glass tubes for neon lights*, looks like I need to learn a new tube bending technique.
> 
> * Never at a "pro" level. That takes years as an apprentice to get anywhere near good enough to make the bends for a water loop.


I'm so done with plasticizer leech as well. hardlines for the future!


----------



## Ceadderman

I was done with soft tubing as soon as I got back to my system and saw that all my white tubing was green inside from the copper patina that adhered to the plasticizer. It was especially bad going from CPU our to Rad In. I made the decision to go with hardline right then an there.









~Ceadder


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was done with soft tubing as soon as I got back to my system and saw that all my white tubing was green inside from the copper patina that adhered to the plasticizer. It was especially bad going from CPU our to Rad In. I made the decision to go with hardline right then an there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That is interesting. Never knew that was a thing. Threw out some good coolant because of a mild greening on some tubing a while back, it didnt look like a biology experiment, was too light.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was done with soft tubing as soon as I got back to my system and saw that all my white tubing was green inside from the copper patina that adhered to the plasticizer. It was especially bad going from CPU our to Rad In. I made the decision to go with hardline right then an there.


Not sure if it's exactly a patina, but indeed loose copper ions get embedded in the tubing wall. Marginally higher heat after CPU leads to more absorption?

Although the tubes look yellow/green from this copper absorption, it might be a trick of the light. Try a test: if you wet a q-tip and rub it on the inside of the discoloured tubes, you should get residue that is more blue instead of green.


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> Fun? Debatable. Good looking? Definitely.


I would have to disagree on both points.

I enjoyed doing it both time I've run hard lines. It takes time and patience to get it right and I wasted more tubing than I'll admit, but it was fun.

Now whether my runs are good looking is debatable.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I surprisingly only wasted a 5in piece of tubing, after that I triple checked my measurements. . still alot of fun either way


----------



## Lyxchoklad

PPCs has XSPC new PETG tubing. Tubing size is 14/10mm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup and they carry Monsoon PETG as well. In all sizes.









I may get some clear from each to compare both products.









~Ceadder


----------



## doogk

Monsoon PETG was what I used and I would recommend it, all looks good and was packaged good for shipping


----------



## Newtocooling

Does anyone have an opinion on the Primochill Rigid Bender? I see it mentioned in a few posts dating back to 2013, but no one seems to mention whether it's good or bad. It looks like an interesting option from the mandrels.


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Does anyone have an opinion on the Primochill Rigid Bender? I see it mentioned in a few posts dating back to 2013, but no one seems to mention whether it's good or bad. It looks like an interesting option from the mandrels.


LinusTechTips used it in their hardline build. Seemed decent.


----------



## MKHunt

I'm about to embark on multi-plane, tight odd angle bends and some long runs in my first hardline experience inside an enthoo primo tonight. I'd like any tips for the multi-plane tight spaces you guys can give. I'm using bitspower 12/10 PETG tubing and all straight BP ML Enhanced fittings.

I see a lot of references to measuring, but I'd love a way to mock-up the tubing with a flexible material that will hold the mock-up bends. Anything out there like that? My thought was that I could make the mock-up for each piece then bend the tubing according to the mock-up. The hardest part will definitely be getting the tubing from the res to the pump mounted behind the PSU dividing plate in a fairly tight place.

I made sure to order way more tubing that I needed to account for errors (ordered 5m for a 3-rad 3-block 1 pump setup). I also got a piece of 10mm to go inside for the mandrel but I think it will be too short for the longest run (pump case floor to cpu) and I'll look for some 10mm fuel line locally.


----------



## emsj86

I recently started using copper since I have a lot on hand to mock up bends. A wire hanger can work as well. If you haven't watch the monsoon kit video for there mandrels on YouTube. Helps show how to make your measurements easier.


----------



## VeerK

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Gavush* 

I'd like to thank the contributors to this thread... read through it quite a bit. That with the help of some Youtube videos I completed my first custom loop & used Primochill PETG tubing. There was a bit of a learning curve but I was able to get the job done in about 6 hours using a 4-pack of tubing and still have 2' left.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











What fittings are those?


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeerK*
> 
> What fittings are those?


They look like the Primochill Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings.


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> They look like the Primochill Rigid Ghost Compression Fittings.


Thank you


----------



## DarthBaggins

Those are definitely Primochill's Ghost fittings, I used them in my build and loved them. Still have about 10-15 left over lol


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Those are definitely Primochill's Ghost fittings, I used them in my build and loved them. Still have about 10-15 left over lol


Good looking fittings! I've heard that on some pump housings those fittings are to think and can't fit next to each other. Regardless, I really like the clean look.


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Those are definitely Primochill's Ghost fittings, I used them in my build and loved them. Still have about 10-15 left over lol


Looks like I have some fittings to hunt down (so pricey lol)









(And their PETG tubing)


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah they are a fairly bulky but they do carry a clean look which is what made me choose them over the competition


----------



## Ceadderman

Me gimme the Monsoon Economies over those any day.

Don't get me wrong PrimoChill ghost fittings look nice but the Monsoon fittings fit everything without need for angle fittings. Heck I have a pair side by side in my skinny FrozenQ Reservoir. Now their Chaingun fittings? No way no how would I be able to use those without an extension on one side or angle fittings. These bleedin things are just that big. I know cuz I tried.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah if I hadn't of used an extension on my res I would have had big problems lol.  I do like the looks of RocketScience's fittings though


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Yeah if I hadn't of used an extension on my res I would have had big problems lol. I do like the looks of RocketScience's fittings though


I LOVE my Rocket Science fittings. They perfectly match Bitspower's nickel finish on their angled adapters. I used them with acrylic and now I have PETG in my loop and they are still working away. The guy that owns the company (an Aussie) is an insanely nice guy too. I highly recommend them if you are doing hard tubing of any type (must be 1/2" or 12.7mm OD).


----------



## VeerK

Quick Q:

Can you really cut PETG with a PVC cutter?


----------



## emsj86

PVC cutter I wouldn't recommend. Is it possible yes. Will it probably come out bad or flatten is likely. A tubing cutter for copper works as well if the blade is fresh and you do small turn ins as to not flatten the tube. End f the day a hack saw, dremel, or hand powered hack saw will work better IMO


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> PVC cutter I wouldn't recommend. Is it possible yes. Will it probably come out bad or flatten is likely. A tubing cutter for copper works as well if the blade is fresh and you do small turn ins as to not flatten the tube. End f the day a hack saw, dremel, or hand powered hack saw will work better IMO


I was just watching a petg vs acrylic video on another thread where they used a tube cutter and it looked pretty good and easy. Just curious really


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeerK*
> 
> I was just watching a petg vs acrylic video on another thread where they used a tube cutter and it looked pretty good and easy. Just curious really


How about a link? Would like to check out that video.


----------



## Ceadderman

They actually did it by pre-marking the tube with a hose cutter for flex tubing. Put just enough pressure on the blade and slowly rimmed the tube with it. Then they used a pipe cutter to finish off the cut. I've seen pics of the end results and have to say that the cut is cleaner than anything I'd seen to date unless you purchase that cutter reamer for 42€ online.









~Ceadder


----------



## VeerK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> How about a link? Would like to check out that video.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=107&v=VLg5E75Eydg


----------



## emsj86

I've used my copper tubing cutters from work and it's very clean just have to go go slow with turning in the handle so it's not too much preasure at once. Watch out for crappy tubing cutter as those will leave a mark from the wheels. Some good ones our imperial (there the best IMO wheel last forever) , yellow jacket, and rigid. (There ok but easly found at Home Depot )


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeerK*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=107&v=VLg5E75Eydg


Thanks for the link!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

My PVC cutters are Japanese VK-30 Supers, they cut PETG great, not really great for trying to trim a little off an already cut end. The gap in the anvil is too wide for trim cuts, but for cutting to length they are fine.

Just did my first PETG bends, one piece 180 deg into a 90 then a 45 to another 90 pointing the opposite direction of the start. Made a bending table using hole saws as the bending mandrels, swap out different diameter hole saws for different radius bends, and they are smooth on the OD. Plus the bit holds them in place while you bend.


----------



## somethingbrite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l3p*
> 
> For anyone using acrylic or PETG, found a nice little tool to quickly deburr or trim.


I have on of these and sadly it does not work with Monsoon tubing. I have the 16mm version, but Monsoon's hardline is actually 5/8" (15.8mm) and therefore the ID chamfer ends up being too deep and the OD does not get touched at all. Its a shame. I switched from EK tube because the Monsoon fittings and tube colours appealed to me...but here in Europe I'll never find a US Imperial 5/8" tool as slick at this!
(and it really is a nice tool)


----------



## Ceadderman

Good to know. That just saved me 42€ finding out the hard way.

So I will go soft tubing cutter/copper tubing cutter method.









~Ceadder


----------



## l3p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somethingbrite*
> 
> I have on of these and sadly it does not work with Monsoon tubing. I have the 16mm version, but Monsoon's hardline is actually 5/8" (15.8mm) and therefore the ID chamfer ends up being too deep and the OD does not get touched at all. Its a shame. I switched from EK tube because the Monsoon fittings and tube colours appealed to me...but here in Europe I'll never find a US Imperial 5/8" tool as slick at this!
> (and it really is a nice tool)


That's a shame man. I haven't tested the 16mm version.
I did test the 12mm version on 12/10mm pipe and later Primo 1/2" and that seems to work too.
I also heard Primochill is working on their own deburrer(s) now.


----------



## MadHatter5045

My first bend:


----------



## DarthBaggins

And the fun has just begun lol


----------



## guitarhero23

I spy a Manfrotto Fluid Head?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> And the fun has just begun lol


Yep







, Going to try to tackle CPU->midplate next. Hope I have enough rulers









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I spy a Manfrotto Fluid Head?


Yes indeed! I love it too, easily one of the best purchases I've made since my friend and I started our YouTube channel







.


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> Yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Going to try to tackle CPU->midplate next. Hope I have enough rulers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes indeed! I love it too, easily one of the best purchases I've made since my friend and I started our YouTube channel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


What kind of YouTube Channel? Are you bending freehand or mandrels? The bends look great so far.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> What kind of YouTube Channel? Are you bending freehand or mandrels? The bends look great so far.


It's a tech and gaming channel, he covers video/camera tech while I'm doing stuff on PCs, and we're both reviewing gadgets that we get a hold of (he just did an unboxing video of his new Pebble). We started planning and getting stuff and ideas together at the beginning of the year and we just launched a few weeks ago at the beginning of the month. it's been a lot of fun learning for me, I hadn't done video editing before







.

I'm using the Monsoon mandrels to do my bends, the kit as well as Geno's videos about it, and this thread have been a huge help to me.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Not gonna lie, I'm proud of this one. It's not perfectly straight, but I had to get creative to do it at all. Note to self: get longer bending insert for future builds.


----------



## somethingbrite

Nice clean looking build MadHatter. What case is that?


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somethingbrite*
> 
> Nice clean looking build MadHatter. What case is that?


Thank you! It is a CaseLabs SMA8







.


----------



## MadHatter5045

I don't want to spam the thread, this will be the last post till I finish. The two little bend for the GPUs->midplate are done and that finishes the GPU loop.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I see you are using the Revolvers. I just built my first water cooled rig and used them, they really work good. Zero leaks on initial power up last night.

FWIW, I'm in Pampa.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I see you are using the Revolvers. I just built my first water cooled rig and used them, they really work good. Zero leaks on initial power up last night.
> 
> FWIW, I'm in Pampa.


Yeah, I've loved the revolvers so far


----------



## guitarhero23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> I don't want to spam the thread, this will be the last post till I finish. The two little bend for the GPUs->midplate are done and that finishes the GPU loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like the look of this going into 90's into the base.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *guitarhero23*
> 
> I like the look of this going into 90's into the base.


Thank you! I'm very pleased with how they turned out







.


----------



## Newtocooling

Very nice looking loop!!


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> Very nice looking loop!!


Thanks, I'm having a lot of fun learning how to do this


----------



## DarthBaggins

Acrylic is fun to use really and the finished product feels more rewarding


----------



## tistou77

Hi

On Aquatuning, I ordered two tubes

Monsoon Tube acrylique 16/12mm (DI 1/2" DE 5/8") 1x77cm - Transparente

But I have received tubes in 13/16, after verification, the 1/2 - 5/8 corresponds to the 13/16, Aquatuning made a mistake in the description
I measured the tubes, make ~12.4 / ~15.5mm

I use them with fittings 12/16 or not ?

Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Not! Won't work.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks so much, that's what I thought.
Is this tube is good or not (quality, bending, etc ...) ?

Alphacool HardTube 16/12mm Plexi Transparent 80cm

I did need a length of 70cm, I take Ek Waterblock for everything else


----------



## Ceadderman

Never used the stuff so I can't say.









~Ceadder


----------



## SimonOcean

Folks, please help:

I will be doing a custom loop with E22 Ultra Clear Hard Acrylic tube 10mm ID, 12mm OD. I am looking for correct fittings. What is the difference between:
1) Bitspower Multi Link Adapter BP-BSEML
2) Bitspower Multi Link Adapter BP-BSWP-C47

I have also seen a C48 version which seems like a shorter single O-Ring version of the C47. Options 1 and 2 look a bit different, but I am confused about any functional difference. I've seen reference to "enhanced" multi link. Is option 1 the previous generation and option 2 is the revised version. Anyways, over to you experts. Thanks for your help.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hi
> 
> On Aquatuning, I ordered two tubes
> 
> Monsoon Tube acrylique 16/12mm (DI 1/2" DE 5/8") 1x77cm - Transparente
> 
> But I have received tubes in 13/16, after verification, the 1/2 - 5/8 corresponds to the 13/16, Aquatuning made a mistake in the description
> I measured the tubes, make ~12.4 / ~15.5mm
> 
> I use them with fittings 12/16 or not ?
> 
> Thanks


The inner diameter doesnt matter for anything but compression fittings. For push in fittings like we use for hard tubing, only the outer diameter of the tubing and fitting matter. In this case 15.5mm and 16mm. You just need to test and see if they are tight enough or not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> Folks, please help:
> 
> I will be doing a custom loop with E22 Ultra Clear Hard Acrylic tube 10mm ID, 12mm OD. I am looking for correct fittings. What is the difference between:
> 1) Bitspower Multi Link Adapter BP-BSEML
> 2) Bitspower Multi Link Adapter BP-BSWP-C47
> 
> I have also seen a C48 version which seems like a shorter single O-Ring version of the C47. Options 1 and 2 look a bit different, but I am confused about any functional difference. I've seen reference to "enhanced" multi link. Is option 1 the previous generation and option 2 is the revised version. Anyways, over to you experts. Thanks for your help.


The c47 and c48s are pushin single oring fittings.

The first one is a double oring style with a "compression" ring. But again since there is no "barb" inner diameter of the tubing is irrelevant.


----------



## SimonOcean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The c47 and c48s are pushin single oring fittings. The first one is a double oring style with a "compression" ring. But again since there is no "barb" inner diameter of the tubing is irrelevant.


OK, I think I understand: I am pretty sure that the C47 is double O-Ring, the C48 Single O-Ring. But in that case the difference between the C47 and the EML would be that the C47 does not have any hard tube compression feature, whereas the EML does have a compression safety.

So it sounds like the C47 is equivalent to EK-HD hard tube connectors whereas the EML is equivalent to the EK-HDC hard tube connectors.

Thanks for your help electro2u.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hi
> 
> On Aquatuning, I ordered two tubes
> 
> Monsoon Tube acrylique 16/12mm (DI 1/2" DE 5/8") 1x77cm - Transparente
> 
> But I have received tubes in 13/16, after verification, the 1/2 - 5/8 corresponds to the 13/16, Aquatuning made a mistake in the description
> I measured the tubes, make ~12.4 / ~15.5mm
> 
> I use them with fittings 12/16 or not ?
> 
> Thanks


Welcome to the wonderful world of monsoon / Aquatuning and interchangeable metric and imperial measurements. You didn't want an actual exact size of tube for your close tolerance fittings did you?
Just like when you buy M4 screws and they send you imperial cause they are close enough.

I can't believe this is still allowed to continue ... its just constant customer confusion. I wouldn't buy any of their rubbish til they change.


----------



## Ceadderman

12mm = 1/2"

I really don't see the confusion. Do you own and drive an import? Metric.

Own and drive a Late 80s up Domestic? Metric.

Own and drive something earlier? SAE

It really isn't that hard to convert.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 12mm = 1/2"
> 
> I really don't see the confusion. Do you own and drive an import? Metric.
> 
> Own and drive a Late 80s up Domestic? Metric.
> 
> Own and drive something earlier? SAE
> 
> It really isn't that hard to convert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry but actually 13mm= 1/2


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh dogpoo. Good catch. I meant 13 but hit 2 when I shuda hit 3. I need to get a Galaxy Note. This S4 is nice but Craptastic.









~Ceadder


----------



## SimonOcean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 12mm = 1/2"
> 
> It really isn't that hard to convert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Then maybe you should convert to 3 sf: 1/2" is 12.7mm. 0.7mm is significant in the context of ensuring fittings don't leak.


----------



## Ceadderman

You were







'ed a while back. Thank you for the reminder however.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 12mm = 1/2"
> 
> I really don't see the confusion. Do you own and drive an import? Metric.
> 
> Own and drive a Late 80s up Domestic? Metric.
> 
> Own and drive something earlier? SAE
> 
> It really isn't that hard to convert.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's the point, they aren't the same. There is a reason there are metric fittings and imperial fittings and these guys are just willfully and pointlessly confusing and misleading people. It's pure unadulterated stupidity.
Why call 1/2" anything but 1/2" ? We regularly see people posting they have bought 12 or 16mm tube but it won't work with their fittings because it just isn't what they are labling it as. These fittings seal by compressing orings onto the tube which means you have less than half the oring width as tolerance for variation. Even normal variation in tube size can exceed that without adding to it by using the wrong size.


----------



## MadHatter5045

Bending is done!


----------



## Thick8

Oh that's pretty


----------



## MadHatter5045

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thick8*
> 
> Oh that's pretty


Thank you


----------



## tistou77

Thanks for your feedback


----------



## Jakerz

This thread has some really awesome work in it! Just wanted to share something I've found that seems to work extremely well for metal tubing and should work fine for any type of plastic as well.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/789334/le-wilson-chamfer-and-deburring-tool-17-to-45-caliber?cm_vc=ProductFinding

I'm planning a build with some 12mm OD 10mm ID Stainless tubing and was looking something to clean the cuts up from the tubing cutter and I though of this, it's made for deburring the necks of brass cases after resizing but the tool is made of Carbide so it's much harder than the stainless and works like a champ!

Stainless tube:


Deburring Tool:


Sorry for the iPhone pics, camera was dead and its a pain is the a** getting an iPhone to focus on something small, lol.

Jake


----------



## Ceadderman

Hand or power tool specific?









~Ceadder


----------



## Jakerz

It's made to use by hand but if you have a drill large enough or a lathe you could chuck it up in that. The end in the pic was done by hand. I should also add that with the .17-.45 cal reamer 12mm is probably max diameter but they make a .22-.60 as well.

Jake


----------



## somethingbrite

I'm REALLY looking for a tool like the "power tool" deburrer linked to earlier in this thread - however I would really like US imperial sizes (larger format - 7/16 / 1/2 inch)

You guys MUST have something like that over there!
You put blokes on the moon and monkeys in space!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakerz*
> 
> It's made to use by hand but if you have a drill large enough or a lathe you could chuck it up in that. The end in the pic was done by hand. I should also add that with the .17-.45 cal reamer 12mm is probably max diameter but they make a .22-.60 as well.
> 
> Jake


I suggest the .22-.60 knowing what I know of ammunition. .17 isn't really too much different but .45 is probably too small for the larger hardline stock, since .50 would be roughly 1/2" (+/- for tolerance).









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hi
> 
> On Aquatuning, I ordered two tubes
> 
> Monsoon Tube acrylique 16/12mm (DI 1/2" DE 5/8") 1x77cm - Transparente
> 
> But I have received tubes in 13/16, after verification, the 1/2 - 5/8 corresponds to the 13/16, Aquatuning made a mistake in the description
> I measured the tubes, make ~12.4 / ~15.5mm
> 
> I use them with fittings 12/16 or not ?
> 
> Thanks


The answer from Aquatuning
Quote:


> Hello,
> Monsoon produce their hardtubes with a tolerance of 0,05mm (inch), so we change it now in our shop to 16/12mm. The Lable on the tube is old and we´ve no change it. But the inner diameter is not the problem for fix the tube on the fitting.


----------



## SimonOcean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> The answer from Aquatuning


Salut Tistou. Bad luck there. My advice is DO NOT use metric fittings with imperial measurement tubing. If I understand correctly you already have metric fittings. Therefore it will be cheaper and safer to replace your tubing with metric tubes. This might not be a complete list but here are some suppliers of metric tubing that you might try. EK and Bitspower. (E22 as well, but not in your size). I notice you live in France. As this is a metric system country (you folks invented it!) you should be able to find metric clear tubing as well as things like copper hard tubing in France. Try places like Material.net in France.

Simon.


----------



## tistou77

Salut SimonOcean

I use fittings and tube 12/16 Ek Waterblock but I need a length of about 60 cm and I had bought tubes from another brand
I will have take one Alphacool tube (90cm), may be or try to find another solution

Thanks


----------



## jeanspaulo

Hello guys I'm needing some help with my pipe bending. I'm using the Monsoon Hardline mandrel kit and with the default bending its all ok (90º, 45º, etc) but I need to do a 10º and a 15º and I'm not geting how to correct do this with the monsoon. Any one have a clue on how can I achieve this ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you tried laying out the marks for that using a protractor rule and mounting the 90° mandrel along the line as a straight edge and the 45° mandrel mounted to your mark to bend to? Actually I think the 180° mandrel mounted before the 45° probably would be better to help start the bend. So that they're pretty much touching at the rounded end of the 180°...

Apologies if I am not being very clear atm, I'm a bit wired on adrenaline due to a physical confrontation that I had with the downstairs neighbor.









~Ceadder


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you tried laying out the marks for that using a protractor rule and mounting the 90° mandrel along the line as a straight edge and the 45° mandrel mounted to your mark to bend to? Actually I think the 180° mandrel mounted before the 45° probably would be better to help start the bend. So that they're pretty much touching at the rounded end of the 180°...
> 
> Apologies if I am not being very clear atm, I'm a bit wired on adrenaline due to a physical confrontation that I had with the downstairs neighbor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hello Ceadderman, thanks for your help, I hope you are ok after your confrontation. In fact it was not very clear but you make me a start point, if later you can do a sketch it'd be great.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah am fine.

Basically, mark out your bend using a straight line and a 180° Radial Protractor. Set your 45° mandrel first and then set your 180° mandrel as close as you can get it with the rounded end facing away from the bend and make sure not to press on the tubing at the off center point of the two mandrels. To get a feel for it try free holding both blocks against a tube to see if it will work for you.

Dude went with the cops and me I am cleaning up. It looked worse than it was. Scraped elbow two scraped knees and a gash in the front hairline that bled like all get out. Other than that I came out unscathed. It was more a wrestling match than a fight. It was on old blacktop which led to the bloodleting.







lulz.

~Ceadder


----------



## jeanspaulo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah am fine.
> 
> Basically, mark out your bend using a straight line and a 180° Radial Protractor. Set your 45° mandrel first and then set your 180° mandrel as close as you can get it with the rounded end facing away from the bend and make sure not to press on the tubing at the off center point of the two mandrels. To get a feel for it try free holding both blocks against a tube to see if it will work for you.
> 
> Dude went with the cops and me I am cleaning up. It looked worse than it was. Scraped elbow two scraped knees and a gash in the front hairline that bled like all get out. Other than that I came out unscathed. It was more a wrestling match than a fight. It was on old blacktop which led to the bloodleting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz.
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you so much for the help man. Worked perfectly I used the 180º mounted vertically cause I already had an 90º bend on the tube so I used the 180 to hold the tube in front of it I mounted the 90º one on the straight line I draw and at last I put the 45º on the front of the 90 one on the 10 degree line I draw with the protractor. I'll post a picture of it later.









I'm glad to know that you are ok. Hope the other guy dont try a payback on you rsrsrs


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha yeah he better wake up and slap himself if he even dreams of retalliating.







I didn't want to fight him just let him know that calling my wife names will not be tolerated. I think he was having a bad day as tweaker so often do.









Glad to hear that it worked for you and that I could help.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Hello

It is better to use the Acrylic or PETG tubes for the best bends, etc...
Finally, if there is a big difference between the 2 or not (aesthetics, reliability, etc ...)

If there is no big difference, and the acrylic allows beautiful curvature.
The acrylic is more "pretty" aesthetically

Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Depends on the color you are using I guess.

I have heard that clear PETG has some kind of white stripes running parallel to the length of the tube. I'm using white tubing so it's not a big issue to me.

PETG is supposed to be easier to work with too. And it's not as prone to microfractures as acrylic. I like to simply let my tubing cool naturally, but some people don't have the patience to hold a bend long enough to let the tubing cool to shape. So they use a fan or a bucket of water. Personally I think the water trick is a seriously bad idea. It's fine for metals but plastics nsmimho. I don't like either way tbh. I will hold a bend for a minute or so til the tubing has cooled.

Acrylic is nice but if you use either method of cooling, be aware of the risks inherant with those methods. Not so much with a fan. But water will make Acrylic prone to microfracture.

Hope these thoughts are helpful.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Thanks so much for your advices

The tube will be transparent and blue liquid (Koolance)
I will leave to cool "naturally"

Point of view "bends" (have beautiful bends) no real difference ?

Better go on the acrylic, then ?


----------



## SimonOcean

Acrylic is much, much more difficult to work with. However the clarity of acrylic is superior and it has a longer life / minimal colour and clarity change over time compared to PETG. I think they are both capable of the same radius bends. I chose acrylic, despite the difficulty of working with it. Just buy much more than you need, because you need practice to work with it and you will make lots of errors and end up scraping a lot in order to get those perfect runs. See my build log for example of working with it:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1569563/build-log-think-by-simonocean-matx-x99-sli-caselabs-mercury-s5/40#post_24359129


----------



## tistou77

Thanks Simon for your advices


----------



## Methodical

delete post


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> With a view to make an installation Acrylic, I need some advice.
> I saw the "PETG" is better than Acrylic (resistance, bending, etc ...)
> 
> - For the first time, Is it that with acrylic tubes (EK waterblock), I will have problems?
> - With acrylic, I can make bends of over 90° (I like to do a bending in U between the waterblock MOS and CPU, it is possible)?
> 
> As this mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your help


Question. Is that a 120mm radiator on the exhaust fan and at the bottom?

Thanks


----------



## Ramzinho

Pending is fairly going well here.. Problem I face is measurements. I get good crisp bends but they r always 1 or 2 cm off . Any cool tips to make double bends in different planes easier?


----------



## SimonOcean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> Pending is fairly going well here.. Problem I face is measurements. I get good crisp bends but they r always 1 or 2 cm off . Any cool tips to make double bends in different planes easier?


This is super difficult. Are you using a jig like the Monsoon? If not, I suppose that my advice would be to buy this and a flat sheet of mdf that you can screw these jigs down onto to help you. The way I did it was to have plenty of spare acrylic tube and to make, test, reset jig, remake, test... repeat until I got it right. One comment is that my bends were never as much as 1-2 cm off, more a few mm off.


----------



## rolldog

I'm in need for a little advice. I've never used acrylic tubing in my system at all. The only kind of tubing I've used is the PrimoChill LRT tubing.

I ordered some acrylic tubing and some hard line compression fittings to hook up my 2 GPUs in SLI. When I was using my X99 Deluxe, I chose to use the EK Dual Parallel Terminal Block, but on my Rampage V Extreme, I thought I would give the acrylic tubing a try for my SLI. First question I have is how do I go about measuring the length? Do I measure from the EK FC Terminal on the top of each card and then add the distance inside of the fitting, past the O ring so it's a solid connection, to the distance between the terminals? Or do I just measure the distance between the terminals? Would there be a helpful resourceful website somewhere that has distances between slots of different motherboards, among other things, that I could refer it? If not, it might be a good idea.

Also, since receiving my acrylic tubing yesterday, I started thinking about using it, instead of the flexible PrimoChill tubing, to run the waterloop between my CPU block, my VRM block, and my chipset block since all of these are so close together. Would that be a problem? I know it might not look the best using both acrylic and flexible tubing, but since this is my first time using acrylic, I don't feel comfortable yet to use it throughout my entire system. It would mostly be used between all the short spaces around the blocks on my MB, and for my SLI.

Should/could I do it this way or should I just stick with using it for my SLI link for now?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Ramzinho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> This is super difficult. Are you using a jig like the Monsoon? If not, I suppose that my advice would be to buy this and a flat sheet of mdf that you can screw these jigs down onto to help you. The way I did it was to have plenty of spare acrylic tube and to make, test, reset jig, remake, test... repeat until I got it right. One comment is that my bends were never as much as 1-2 cm off, more a few mm off.


i have the mandrel set by monsoon.. i got it figured out.. i just use scrap tubes to measure stuff.it's so so so time consuming but i don't have the monsoon measuring kit so i do what i gotta do.. i measure like 20-30 times before bending., i've spare tubes i can use. but i'm doing two builds so i wanna be as conservative as possible. anyway i hope by tomorrow i'm air testing and having my first water run before putting in coolant. wish me luck.


----------



## Ceadderman

I wish the the measuring kit in my Pro bending kit had a way to secure the rule to the base to get the best measurements. Would make things much easier to line up.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

I didn't buy the monsoon tubing, I bought tubing by acrylic tubing by PrimoChill. Both of them use the same measuring system, everyone else uses the metric system, which is close, but not perfect.

As I mentioned, I was only planning to use the acrylic for my SLI, which is a basic straight tube. I'm just wondering what I need to consider when measuring so I don't come up too short or too long but fit well all the way into the fittings, past the O rings.
After thinking about cutting some tubing for my SLI, I thought about using the acrylic tubing to connect all the waterblocks together on my MB. They're all fairly short runs and would only need 90 degree fittings if I don't even bother about bending the pipe. I think I could run from the VRMs block, to the CPU block, and then the chipset block without having to bend anything. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I've never used acrylic before, so I'm just guessing.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


----------



## Ceadderman

Honestly, so long as you're willing to spend the money on the angle fittings, you won't shouldn't have to apply heat to a single tube run.

Measure and cut your tubing long and tune it to fit between the bases before applying your rings. Then when your sure you can put them in a touch snug into the bases, apply the rings to check for block straightness. Use water to lubricate the Orings be for putting them in and snug everything down when you're sure you have things the way you're wanting them to look.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

As far as fittings, I just got the Monsoon Free Center Compression Fittings, and I have a feeling these are not for acrylic tubing. Only the hard line compression fittings are for acrylic, right? I can't believe I ordered these. I've spent so much time looking at fittings trying to pick the ones I think would look best that I made this mistake. Looks like I'll be sending these back to swap out.

I also bought the PrimoChill 1/2" acrylic rigid tubing. I think there's only a handful of tubing and fittings by manufacturers who don't use the metric system, or they have fittings for both.

Also, how do I figure out the exact length to cut the tubing? When I was thinking about just buying the 4 slot Bitspower Crystal Link tubing, it came in 3 different lengths, 55mm, 60mm, & 65mm? Even though the slots themselves are 80mm apart, I'm assuming the EK FC block on top of my GPUs needs to be taken into consideration along with the depth inside the fittings until it fits well, past the O ring, right? How do I determine the exact length instead of cutting different lengths and trying them all, like with the Crystal Link?


----------



## Ceadderman

Are there barbs on the bases? If so, yes indeed those are for flexible tubing.

If they don't have them, and came with little plastic collars... they are for hardline and you will need the UV glue to complete the ends of the tubing to make them work.

I've had both. I thought that I would be able to convert my Free Centers to hardliners but the rings only come in 5/8" OD. I had 3/4" which won't even loosely mate to the 3/4" bases. So don't feel too bad. Things like this happen all the time.

As far as the GPU crystal links go the best way to determine is to look at the gap between your cards and compare that to the best possible tube with your fittings in place. If the tube lines up and visually passes the top of the fittings at each end, but runs short of the bases, that'doesn't be the one you should use. But you have to do it with the cards in place for a solid visual of which you need. Those tube ate precut for single, double and triple spacing cards in SLI or Xfire.









No fine tuning should be required at all. But I believe that you will need the BP crystal link fittings if you don't already have those.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

Well, I was going to use those, but then I decided to buy some acrylic tubing and make my own. I've never used acrylic and I want to learn how to. Besides, I might use it for more than just my SLI since I have a CPU waterblock, a VRM waterblock, and a chipset waterblock, so instead of hooking all that up with flexible tubing, I thought it might look better to use some 90 degree fittings and acrylic tubing to run from one block right to another.

And to answer your question, yes, they do have barbs. Looks like I'll be sending those back. As far as fittings that don't use the metric system, are there any that some people prefer over another? I know a lot of the decisions are made for purely cosmetic reasons, but quality wise, do the Monsoon hard line fittings work well or are there others that might work better?


----------



## Ceadderman

I use Monsoon Economy hardline fittings.

Others use BitsPower and others still, use EK fittings. And then there are the PrimoChill fittings. All are quality tbh. So it really boils down to your likes. The only ones that use an adhesive are the Monsoon free center and chaingun fittings.

~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

Love my PrimoChill Ghost fittings, always find good deals in the marketplace for them


----------



## FuzzDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramzinho*
> 
> i have the mandrel set by monsoon.. i got it figured out.. i just use scrap tubes to measure stuff.it's so so so time consuming but i don't have the monsoon measuring kit so i do what i gotta do.. i measure like 20-30 times before bending., i've spare tubes i can use. but i'm doing two builds so i wanna be as conservative as possible. anyway i hope by tomorrow i'm air testing and having my first water run before putting in coolant. wish me luck.


Measure twice, cut once...seems I've heard that before...I just finished my first hard tube case...this isn't a good pic (poor cell phone, dust, blurry...I'll have better pics when i finish it all up...still waiting for my 36mm top cover)...but i must have taken a couple hours per tube...measuring, sizing up, cutting, bending, cleaning...i would basically put a dot on the center of the required turn and used the same monsoon mandrels (I routed the mandrels into a board so the 1/16" edges on the mandrels wouldn't cause a problem).


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Honestly, so long as you're willing to spend the money on the angle fittings, you won't shouldn't have to apply heat to a single tube run.
> 
> Measure and cut your tubing long and tune it to fit between the bases before applying your rings. Then when your sure you can put them in a touch snug into the bases, apply the rings to check for block straightness. Use water to lubricate the Orings be for putting them in and snug everything down when you're sure you have things the way you're wanting them to look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Does anyone make 90 degree hard line compression fittings that aren't measured using the metric system? In some of the pictures shown for either hard line fittings or the tubing, it shows a straight acrylic tube with a 90 degree fitting on each end. Since I bought the PrimoChill acrylic tubing, I'll need some fittings measured using the Imperial system instead of the metric system (so everything fits perfectly down to the mm), but I can't find anyone who make both the 3/8" ID x 1/2" OD 90 degree rigid compression fittings and the standard rigid compression fittings. I really would like to avoid having to buy both the 90 degree fittings to screw into my waterblocks and another rigid compression fitting to hook the tubing up to the waterblock, especially if they don't match.

If anyone knows of a brand that has both, please let me know. I'd like to avoid using flexible tubing throughout my entire build.


----------



## rolldog

Ok, has anyone used either of these 90 degree fittings for acrylic tubing?
Have you ever seen these fittings:

http://www.swiftech.com/90degree-Swivel-Elbow-adapter.aspx

http://bitspowerwork.com/html/product/pro_show.php?products_id=3404

They're definitely not cheap, but at least I would be able to run straight lines with the acrylic tubing from my CPU waterblock, to the chipset waterblock, and the VRM waterblock without having to learn how to bend tubing yet. I can get everything put back together, and when I feel comfortable bending acrylic tubing, I can them replace the flexible tubing that's running to other parts in my case. Bad thing is, these are metric fittings, and I bought 3/8" x 1/2" tubing. I guess I could order the metric tubing and keep what I have to practice bends.

Monsoon had some really cool 90 degree fittings, which had LEDs inside shining down through the tubing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Go with these

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-deluxe-white-90-degree-with-dual-rotary-inner-g1-4-extender.html

They are expensive and need a short male/male connector but they're rotary at both ends and will allow you to mate whatever fitting you decide to use at the other end to connect your runs. BP uses metric so your choice in tubing wouldn't work with their fittings unless you go the metric standard.









I looked for white since I assume your intent is white fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

What's the difference between these and the ones I chose, which are also Bitspower 90 degree hard line compression fittings? I don't need many since I'm only using the acrylic tubing between the blocks on my MB.

You want to hear a messed up story? I chose white because when I bought my Asus X99 Deluxe, it was black and white. My last build was green (inside of my case was green & I painted the armor on my Asus Maximus VI Formula MB to match). When my X99 came in, I striped and painted the inside of my case white instead of leaving the green. I have a Little Devil PC-V8, which mostly come 2 tone. After painting, which I never want to do again, it looked great, white sleeved cables, black tubing, and nickel fittings. Well, my MB died, and I bought a Rampage V Extreme, which is now black and red. So I'm trying to use some things white, some red, and some black, otherwise, it would look horrible. I bought new flexible tubing (white), got nickel + plexi waterblocks, which I'm going to add some of the red Mayhems dye to, and I originally bought acrylic tubing for my SLI. After doing some research, I really liked the way acrylic tubing looks, so now, I want to use acrylic tubing to connect the blocks on my MB. I'll probably use the white flexible tubing to hook up my rads and reservoir, at least until I learn how to bend the acrylic tubing. Then I'll probably get rid of all my white tubing.
Is it bad to spend so much time on the aesthetics of my rig? I've spent a lot of money on it, and I want people to see it and be like, "Damn!"

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FuzzDad*
> 
> Measure twice, cut once...seems I've heard that before...I just finished my first hard tube case...this isn't a good pic (poor cell phone, dust, blurry...I'll have better pics when i finish it all up...still waiting for my 36mm top cover)...but i must have taken a couple hours per tube...measuring, sizing up, cutting, bending, cleaning...i would basically put a dot on the center of the required turn and used the same monsoon mandrels (I routed the mandrels into a board so the 1/16" edges on the mandrels wouldn't cause a problem).


Yeah that's the Carpenter's motto lol but holds true to many other fields. With hardline really all you need to do is take your time and it'll come together right and semi easily - I know it took me around 12hours to complete my runs (that's with measuring and taking breaks in between )


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> What's the difference between these and the ones I chose, which are also Bitspower 90 degree hard line compression fittings? I don't need many since I'm only using the acrylic tubing between the blocks on my MB.
> 
> You want to hear a messed up story? I chose white because when I bought my Asus X99 Deluxe, it was black and white. My last build was green (inside of my case was green & I painted the armor on my Asus Maximus VI Formula MB to match). When my X99 came in, I striped and painted the inside of my case white instead of leaving the green. I have a Little Devil PC-V8, which mostly come 2 tone. After painting, which I never want to do again, it looked great, white sleeved cables, black tubing, and nickel fittings. Well, my MB died, and I bought a Rampage V Extreme, which is now black and red. So I'm trying to use some things white, some red, and some black, otherwise, it would look horrible. I bought new flexible tubing (white), got nickel + plexi waterblocks, which I'm going to add some of the red Mayhems dye to, and I originally bought acrylic tubing for my SLI. After doing some research, I really liked the way acrylic tubing looks, so now, I want to use acrylic tubing to connect the blocks on my MB. I'll probably use the white flexible tubing to hook up my rads and reservoir, at least until I learn how to bend the acrylic tubing. Then I'll probably get rid of all my white tubing.
> Is it bad to spend so much time on the aesthetics of my rig? I've spent a lot of money on it, and I want people to see it and be like, "Damn!"
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G925A using Tapatalk


The ones you chose are for BP tubing which is Metric sizing.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The ones you chose are for BP tubing which is Metric sizing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I know. I also ordered metric tubing along with it. I have no idea if some is better than others or if it's all the same, all I know is I didn't buy the PETG tubing because I have some Mayhem's dye for my coolant. I hear it stains PETG tubing faster. I only bought about 24" of the 3/8" x 1/2" tubing, so now I'm trying to decide if I want to send it back and get a few bucks credit or use it for practice, like learning how to bend it.

Monsoon makes some bending kits, measuring kits, cutting kits, etc. Are any of those worth buying when learning how to use/cut/bend acrylic tubing? I thought about just free handing it, and cut of the acrylic tubing with my Dremel tool (I'm pretty sure I have an attachment for that somewhere). It'll probably work better if I try on a Friday night after a couple of bourbons, just to relax me so I can make a clean cut.

Seriously though, are any of the cutting kits worth it? It seems like everything has to be precise if you don't want any problems.


----------



## Ceadderman

I have the 12/16mm Pro Bending kit and it is pretty nice. Sure thereally are some niggling details with it, but you get everything to make bending easier.

It's not perfect but it's the best I know of.

Some benders use different size circles cut from plywood to get tighter 180° bends but it sort of requires a little more experience imho.

I have seen still others slap together a couple panels of particle board/MDF and cut their guide in the top piece and hold it together with screws and use the Monsoon kit to form runs of differing angles to get a clean level looking run.

So just some thoughts regarding your questions that may be of some help.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I have the 12/16mm Pro Bending kit and it is pretty nice. Sure thereally are some niggling details with it, but you get everything to make bending easier.
> 
> It's not perfect but it's the best I know of.
> 
> Some benders use different size circles cut from plywood to get tighter 180° bends but it sort of requires a little more experience imho.
> 
> I have seen still others slap together a couple panels of particle board/MDF and cut their guide in the top piece and hold it together with screws and use the Monsoon kit to form runs of differing angles to get a clean level looking run.
> 
> So just some thoughts regarding your questions that may be of some help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I noticed that the cutting kits come in 2 different sizes, and the descriptions of both cutting kits are aren't specified for tubing made for the metric system, but since it's a cutting kit, I'm assuming it doesn't matter, unlike the fittings, just as long as the sizing of the tube is close.


----------



## Ceadderman

No actually the size does matter.

I got the cutting kit with my Pro Bending kit. The larger tubing requires the Red miter box and the smaller tubing requires the Blue miter box.

If you're using the larger tubing (Metric/SAE) you most certainly do not want the Blue kit. You would never be able to get the tube inside the cutting chanel. And the smaller tubing would be too wobbly in the Red kit.









~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

I ordered 10/12mm tubing and I ordered the Monsoon Hard Line Pro Cutting Kit 3/8" x 1/2" (13mm), which looks like it has a blue miter box. The other kit is 1/2" x 5/8" (16mm) and has a red miter box.

My question as far as it not mattering which kit I bought, I was referring to my 10/12mm tubing working in the 13mm kit. It should be fine as long as the tubing can fit through the hole, right?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes. I suggest applying 1 layer of Frog tape or Painters tape in the box to get as snug a fit as tightly as possible. It will help secure the tube from rolling in the box when you make your cut.

The box is anodized aluminum so the surface is slick and the tubing is also slick. Of course you can apply the tape to the tube instead.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

I used the red monsoon to cut my 1/2" tubing


----------



## rolldog

Ok, I finally got my acrylic tubing and hard line fittings in. Originally, I was going to use PrimoChill LRT flexible tubing for my waterloop and only use the acrylic tubing for my SLI. After looking through some build logs and how nice the acrylic tubing looked compared to the flexible tubing, I decided to incorporate more of the acrylic tubing into my loop. I was thinking about using acrylic between the CPU block, VRM block, and chipset block, which are all on my MB fairly close together. Every piece of acrylic tubing will only be straight tubes connecting the blocks (I also have 90 degree hard line compression fittings with 360 degree rotation to use as fittings between my blocks) so everything seems pretty straight forward and no bending is required, which I'm happy about since this is my first time using acrylic.

I was just thinking things over, and I'm wondering how everything will look using 2 types of tubing. I was planning to still use the flexible tubing between my rads, reservoir, and pump, but I have a question I'm hoping someone could answer for me.

While looking through some build logs of rigs setup using acrylic tubing, I saw a few that had nothing but straight lines. Any bending and/or turning was done only by using multiple types of fittings that were connected together with different degree bends until it was a straight line from one block to the next, which is where a single straight acrylic tube was used. Is this something commonly done instead of bending the acrylic tubing? Of course it's going to cost much more because of all the extra fittings. I was just wondering if I could use the acrylic tubing to run a line from my 480 rad (mounted to the top of my case) straight to my CPU waterblock using 45 degree fittings in each spot. II don't mind using 2 types of tubing in my loop, but I'd like to avoid having 2 different types of tubing going in and coming out of the same waterblock, purely for aesthetic reasons.

Please let me know what your thoughts are on this.

Here's a pic to what I'm referring to.


----------



## Ceadderman

Personally, for me, it's one or the other. Because with plasticizers soft tubing should not be used for runs where heat is transferred imho. Anything over 35c(iirc) can leech the stuff out of the tubing.

Now granted you'd be limiting your exposure to it by using hardline. But your Radiator would get the brunt of it. And possibly allow your pump to get gunked as well. But you do have an external Radiator which can be difficult to connect with hardline. It's not impossible however. If you go the fitting route then I wouldn't even use flexible tubing at all.

~Ceadder


----------



## rolldog

Yea, well I ordered my flexible tubing weeks ago with the intention of using it for my entire loop, and I was only going to use acrylic tubing for my SLI connection. As I looked at more and more builds using acrylic tubing instead of flexible tubing for their loops, I loved the way it looked. Then I decided it might be a little easier, and look a whole lot better, if I used acrylic tubing connecting the waterblocks on my MB like I was going to use the acrylic to hook up the SLI.

If I can't use acrylic tubing and flexible tubing in the same loop, then I have a problem. I already have a ton of compression fittings for my flexible tubing, plus quite a few QD3s (which are very convenient, and I would definitely like to incorporate into my loop) not to mention all the additional fittings I would need to buy so I can connect them all together and create straight lines for the acrylic tubing, since I have no idea how to bend acrylic yet.

Ideally, I'd like to use the acrylic to connect my GPUs together and connect my MB waterblocks together. If I use acrylic for this, then the flexible tubing I could use to connect my 480 rad, 360 rad, D5 pump top, and the Bitspower Mod Top Upgrade I bought with a 250 reservoir.

Are these plasticizers in every kind of plastic flexible tubing? I also bought an in line filter to put on my loop, just in case I get some junk in my line. I really don't want to mess up my waterloop, but I don't see any other option except to use both, but I might have to just limit the amount of PrimoChill LRT tubing I'm using. Looking at that last pic I posted of someone's rig, it looks like they used tons of fittings to get the tubing where it can be run straight to another block. Now I understand why Bitspower sells every degree fitting I can think of.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yup. Pretty much all flexible tubing has some form of a plasticizer in it. EK zmt tubing doesn't, but it only comes in black. There are a couple Norprene rubes that don't either but they're more spendy.

People seem to believe that PrimoChill Advanced LRT doesn't but I have seen issues in the past(here on OCN in the plasticizer thread) where the tubing showed a film or haziness to it.

Plasticizer is the ingredient that allows plastic tubing to be flexible.

~Ceadder


----------



## FuzzDad

You can do whatever aesthetically pleases you...build what you want to build. That said...I would not mix rigid with flexible if I could help it...unless it was in some inconspicuous place or the turn was really difficult to manage. To get around that, I use rotary extensions when my various entrances and exits don't line up properly. Personally I don't like the 90 degree fitting look&#8230;where you use straight pipes and 90 degree fittings to make it work&#8230;just seems like something the fittings manufacturers wants ($$$$) to make up for the cheaper costs of rigid fittings/pipes.

Oh&#8230;buy twice the amount of rigid tubing you need&#8230;at least twice. You'll mess up the first few you try.


----------



## rolldog

I haven't even started putting my system back together yet because I took everything out of my case, and now I'm painting the outside of it. Once I'm done, I'll start piecing things back together. I'm been without my PC for so long, I'd like to get it up and running asap.

I have enough hard line compression fittings to run between my GPUs and to run tubing from each waterblock on the MB to another. I either need to buy more hard line fittings now or use the flexible tubing until I get more hard line fittings.

Since this is my 1st time using acrylic tubing, I thought I might buy the fittings I need to hook everything up until I practice bending the tubing. Seriously, Bitspower has fittings available for every angle in 10 degree increments until 90 degrees, so piecing something similar together and having it up and running with no bends in the acrylic is doable. I would like to change everything over to acrylic once I learn how to make bends.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

There is no problem to use 1 tube Monsoon 13/16 (~12.6 / ~15.5) with the fittings Ek Waterblock 16mm (EK-HDC Fitting 16mm) ?

Other tubes will be Ek Waterblock 12/16

Thanks


----------



## masychefx2

can you use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun?


----------



## tistou77

Yes I can, but why?
With the heat gun, I have several temperature settings


----------



## masychefx2

heatguns are quite cheap looking on ebay. i will follow your guide thanks


----------



## tistou77

I thought it was for the question that I asked








The heat gun is best, so


----------



## Rahldrac

Planing on getting into Acrylic bending now after watching all your awesome work! I did plan on going with EK since I have had good experience with them before.
Is there any major different betwen 10/12mm and 12/16mm? I guess not in performance, what about looks? What do you prefer, and why?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> Planing on getting into Acrylic bending now after watching all your awesome work! I did plan on going with EK since I have had good experience with them before.
> Is there any major different betwen 10/12mm and 12/16mm? I guess not in performance, what about looks? What do you prefer, and why?


The difference is the size, and with that difference comes the relative availability of fittings selection choices.

The smaller size has been around longer, and has engendered a much more mature set of options with regards to fittings you can chose from.

The larger size is still on the new side and has a much smaller user set, and with that, a decidedly smaller choice of fittings.

As far as which looks better, it's really a matter of personal choice, at least for the most part.

The smaller size works fine for almost any plan you could imagine, where the larger size would probably appear somewhat out of place and less proportional if used in a very small or crowded build.

While I don't like to see the smaller 1/2" X 3/8" soft tubing in a big case build because it tends to look like spaghetti, the same is not true of the smaller sized hard tubing, because the way it's typically run with all horizontal and vertical runs, integrates it into the visual flow of the other components like the rads, GPUs, and ram sticks.

Well run tubing, hard or soft, should always accent and highlight the build, while poorly run tubing, which generally includes most soft tubing, usually tends to detract from a build's potential.

Hope that gets you started,

Darlene


----------



## tistou77

Hello

With an acrylic tube, I can do 2 bends spaced of 60mm ?
No problem of tubes heated almost the same place

Thanks


----------



## tistou77

For my heat gun, is better to put on the "position" max (560°C) or less hot (320°C) ?

Thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

Low(320c) is best until you get some familiarity with bending tubes.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Ok thank you, I'll stay with the 320°C


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Trivia Factoid:

You can also use the heat gun to remove shipping labels from boxes. No more marking through old labels with a Sharpie, they will look like new. Hit 'em with a little heat and the adhesive lets go.

On topic: I use a heat gun that was originally for shrinking the covering on model airplanes. Works great, and it's what I had laying around.


----------



## Ceadderman

I like to use mine for pulling labels of all sorts off things like fans and PSUs and other pieces that require the labels to be on them. Makes quick work of them without too much damage if any to the adhesive. I do want to get a label printer however so I can simply peel told ones off and replace them with custom labels like a few of our mates here do.









~Ceadeer


----------



## Methodical

Questions??????

I used Primochill (PC) hard tubing (1/2x3/8) and rigid revolver fittings (I like these but no variety such as 90*, swivels etc) for my 1st water cooling build and during that process I've realized that I may want to use Bitspower (BP) connectors on my next build because they offer so many connection options and they look good, too, but I want to use PC hard tubes, since I still have quite a bit left. However, here's the big concern. I recall in one of PC's videos they stated that you could not use their tubes with Bitspower connectors because BP used metric sized connectors and it may not provide a good seal. Now, with that said, I watch Jayz2cents video (Skunkworks build) and if I recall correctly, he used BP's connectors with PC hard tubes. Correct if I am wrong. Has anyone hear used BPs connectors with PC hard tubing and had success?

Thanks


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I don't think you can use the PC 1/2" OD tubing with Bitspower fittings. I bought a whole tube (8 x 3ft pieces I think) of PC PETG for about what 2 Bitspower 90s cost, so the cost of the leftover tubing is pretty small in comparison to gearing up for a full on Bitspower build with the correct tubing.

Here's the ModZoo's take:

http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php/topic/2094-need-help-on-hardline-fittings-for-petg/

My thinking is, it's so easy to bend PETG into close 90s, compound bends, 45s, you name it, you don't really need connectors with bends in them unless you are going for that look.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I bought Ek Waterblock fittings HDC 12/16 and Ek Waterblock acrylic tubes 12/16
The problem is that the tube does not fit in the fittings (even forcing very strong), the tube "blocks" on the inner joint, you have a "solution"?

And also, once the Ek waterblock tube is "bent" I have a sort of line with small "peaks" (. . . . . . .), just one place and I have the same thing after 2 trials (no mark with Monsoon tube)
this may be due to what?

For info, when I heats the tube (heat gun ~ 320 °C) I have the impression that it"crystalized" (slightly white) that disappears once I've finished heating the tube

Thanks for your help


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I bought Ek Waterblock fittings HDC 12/16 and Ek Waterblock acrylic tubes 12/16
> The problem is that the tube does not fit in the fittings (even forcing very strong), the tube "blocks" on the inner joint, you have a "solution"?
> 
> And also, once the Ek waterblock tube is "bent" I have a sort of line with small "peaks" (. . . . . . .), just one place and I have the same thing after 2 trials (no mark with Monsoon tube)
> this may be due to what?
> 
> For info, when I heats the tube (heat gun ~ 320 °C) I have the impression that it"crystalized" (slightly white) that disappears once I've finished heating the tube
> 
> Thanks for your help


A while ago I had a few fittings that I had some trouble with. I removed the O-ring and used a small screwdriver to clean the recess, there was some small metal pieces after manufacturing that made the O-ring to stick out a little to much to fit the tube. How much do you chamfer the edges on the tubes? I have no idea about the tubing as mine has been clear all the time when i'm heating it. It might be that my heat gun is on 490 °C


----------



## tistou77

I tried with several fittings and tube and the same problem.
I measured inside the fitting and outside of the tube and that is exactly the same diameter (~14.87mm)


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> I tried with several fittings and tube and the same problem.
> I measured inside the fitting and outside of the tube and that is exactly the same diameter (~14.87mm)


That's strange, I measured mine to 15.7 ish mm. with the o-ring


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I bought Ek Waterblock fittings HDC 12/16 and Ek Waterblock acrylic tubes 12/16
> The problem is that the tube does not fit in the fittings (even forcing very strong), the tube "blocks" on the inner joint, you have a "solution"?


Start watching at about 1:30

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2yZsIzHYdg

They chamfer the end, then lightly sand the tube OD on the last couple of mm to get it to seat completely.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> That's strange, I measured mine to 15.7 ish mm. with the o-ring


I will check, it may be 15.87







(but sure it's the same diameter with o-ring)


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Start watching at about 1:30
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y2yZsIzHYdg
> 
> They chamfer the end, then lightly sand the tube OD on the last couple of mm to get it to seat completely.


With Ek fittings must sanded tube on the end?

I just did a chamfer, with that


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> With Ek fittings must sanded tube on the end?
> 
> I just did a chamfer, with that


I use the same reamer, never sanded.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I don't think you can use the PC 1/2" OD tubing with Bitspower fittings. I bought a whole tube (8 x 3ft pieces I think) of PC PETG for about what 2 Bitspower 90s cost, so the cost of the leftover tubing is pretty small in comparison to gearing up for a full on Bitspower build with the correct tubing.
> 
> Here's the ModZoo's take:
> 
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php/topic/2094-need-help-on-hardline-fittings-for-petg/
> 
> My thinking is, it's so easy to bend PETG into close 90s, compound bends, 45s, you name it, you don't really need connectors with bends in them unless you are going for that look.


Point well taken. I need to explore all my options. It may be a non issue for my next build as i plan to have mostly vertical runs and maybe 1 compound bend. I plan to use the CL SMA8 where i will have the top radiator and fans all housed under the top panel and the other radiator all in the bottom portion., which would allow me to use some flexible tubing and less 90s and compound bends.

Thanks for the link


----------



## tistou77

It seems that this is a known "problem" for fittings

http://www.overclock.net/t/1528946/ek-hd-tubing-and-hd-adapters-installation

Is water with a little soap is safe?


----------



## rwarr

Im doing some practice bends before doing my main rig. Using the monsoon blue silicone tube for the insert but i keep getting kinks and flat areas on the bends. Not only that the silicone tube is REALLY loose in the tube. I'm using bitspower crystal link 10/12mm tubes.

is the silicone tubes suppose to be very tight?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Different tube, different size, but the black silicone insert I got from Primochill for their 1/2" tubing was very tight. Had to lube it up with water and/or dish soap on some bends or to get it full length inserted into a straight tube.


----------



## Ceadderman

Which you should do anyway. Trust me, it makes removal of the insert so much easier.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rahldrac

What kind of kits do you usually use? Always monsoon for bending? I ordered tubes and everything from EK, but forgot to also buy a silicon insert and so on.


----------



## rwarr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Different tube, different size, but the black silicone insert I got from Primochill for their 1/2" tubing was very tight. Had to lube it up with water and/or dish soap on some bends or to get it full length inserted into a straight tube.


? unless the monsoon blue silicone insert is the wrong size for a 10/12mm rigid tubing then guess i am using the wrong size silicone tube but when i measured it, it turned out to be 9mm in diameter for the silicone tube so i guess i need to buy a correct size.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rahldrac*
> 
> What kind of kits do you usually use? Always monsoon for bending? I ordered tubes and everything from EK, but forgot to also buy a silicon insert and so on.


I only have the Monsoon Pro Benders Red kit. So yup only Monsoon here. Although I am putting together a MDF bending bench to help lay out 2 dimensional runs.







so basically figuring out the horizontal length of runs is what holds me back as well as the case being completely disassembled for interior paneling.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Hello

The Bitspower 12/16 tubes can be used with EK-HDC 16mm fittings without any problems?
It is of good quality?

Thanks


----------



## dseg

What is the average size tubing people usually get?

3/8" x 1/2" (10mm x 13mm)
1/2" x 5/8"
10mm x 12mm
10mm x 13mm
12mm x 16mm

I was thikning go big, so the 12/16mm.

Also, whati s a popular tubing, it seems I am going to go with PETG (vs acrylic) but what brand? Monsoon? Primochill - but I see Primocholl only has 1/2" OD


----------



## tistou77

Hello

For those who have used the silicone cord 12mm Ek Waterblock, have you had a "defect" on the cord ?
Which was transferred to the tube during the "bending" (because of the heat on the tube) ?

I did change cord by the seller, and the news that I received at the same "problem"
No worries with cords of other brands





Thanks


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Can you pressure test with petg or will the tubing pop out of the fitting? I'm using primochill revolver fittings with their tubing.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I didn't pressure test mine, but I was extremely impressed with how tight the grip of the Revolvers is. 16 in my loop, zero leaks since day 1.


----------



## Lucky 23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> The Bitspower 12/16 tubes can be used with EK-HDC 16mm fittings without any problems?
> It is of good quality?
> 
> Thanks


I am wondering this too


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 23*
> 
> I am wondering this too


I inquired about (not many people on this topic) and it's good, no problems


----------



## DarthBaggins

I don't see why not as long as the sizes match up with minimal variances etc ( I know I personally used Primochill tubing w/ their Ghost fittings, but that was due to availability and the ghost fittings had the look i wanted)


----------



## Lucky 23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> I inquired about (not many people on this topic) and it's good, no problems


Cool Thanks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I don't see why not as long as the sizes match up with minimal variances etc ( I know I personally used Primochill tubing w/ their Ghost fittings, but that was due to availability and the ghost fittings had the look i wanted)


I figured it should be fine. I just saw this but its probably because bitspower wants you to buy their fittings.


----------



## jleslie246

Has anyone here switched to PETG tubing from acrylic? I just watched a Primochill video on it. Looks way easier to work with than acrylic.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Has anyone here switched to PETG tubing from acrylic? I just watched a Primochill video on it. Looks way easier to work with than acrylic.


I've seem a few people switch from acrylic to PETG.
PETG seems better in every way, mainly stronger. I've seen people post pictures of their acrylic cracking just aftering moving their case.
I watched a video on the strength of PETG, omg....


----------



## Wolfsbora

Acrylic is quite particular in regard to the amount of heat applied. After 6 months of some pretty heavy [email protected], my acrylic cracked. I've also found PETG easier to work with. However, I'd still use acrylic again in the right situation.


----------



## DarthBaggins

So far I've had no issues w/ my acrylic in JAC (24/7 Folding rig), I know I'll be swapping fluids soon to Pastel or just run distilled w/ biocide and dyes


----------



## Wolfsbora

Yeah, that's where I think acrylic is more sensitive to the heat applied at the time of bending. I think it was mostly user error on my part. PETG is probably the best for beginners. But it all comes down to personal preference and practice.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Yeah, that's where I think acrylic is more sensitive to the heat applied at the time of bending. I think it was mostly user error on my part. PETG is probably the best for beginners. But it all comes down to personal preference and practice.










Going to start doing my replacement of soft -> PETG in about 15 min. Hope it goes well!


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to start doing my replacement of soft -> PETG in about 15 min. Hope it goes well!


I'm excited to see the results!


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> I'm excited to see the results!


XD so first ever bend was a fail. I used the high setting on the heatgun and it produced these little holes in the tubing. The second bend was also a fail, I guess I bent the tubing too quickly and it produced this excess buildup on the inner side of the bend. Third time I went slower and it was pretty good but I fudged the length. Little hard as the first tubing needs to be bent along three planes instead of two.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> XD so first ever bend was a fail. I used the high setting on the heatgun and it produced these little holes in the tubing. The second bend was also a fail, I guess I bent the tubing too quickly and it produced this excess buildup on the inner side of the bend. Third time I went slower and it was pretty good but I fudged the length. Little hard as the first tubing needs to be bent along three planes instead of two.


Heat up no less than 3" where the bend will occur, rotate slowly while bringing the tube left and right. Do not let the tube sit stagnant over the heat any point. Also, make sure that you have a silicon insert.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Heat up no less than 3" where the bend will occur, rotate slowly while bringing the tube left and right. Do not let the tube sit stagnant over the heat any point. Also, make sure that you have a silicon insert.


Yup, I kept rotating it (but on the same spot). What does the left-right part do in addition to the rotation? The silicon insert is nice. It just sucks when I make a bend and then try to see how it looks inside the chassis since the insert is sticking out on one end. Once I remove the insert, I can get it back in but it always gets stuck at the bend -.- Is there any easy way to figure out the lengths for stuff?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

The heat gun I use was intended to shrink the covering on model airplanes, it doesn't get nearly as hot as the industrial heat gun we have at work. Much hotter than a hair dryer, though.

It does heat the tubing fairly slowly so I have time to heat all around the tube. I also had a few Mulligans, but my later bends were way easier than my early attempts, so I bet you'll get there









When I get set back up, I'll post some pics of my bending jig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Once I remove the insert, I can get it back in but it always gets stuck at the bend -.- Is there any easy way to figure out the lengths for stuff?


I just leave extra lengths on both sides of a single bend, multiple bends I mark the start and calculate the take up (There is a description of how to do that in the Pipe Bending thread.)

I use dish soap/water to lube the silicone up to get it back in the tube. It's tough, but twisting and push/pulling will generally get it back in at least far enough to continue.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

This is the one I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV?keywords=heat%20gun&qid=1447081518&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 on high with the tube maybe an inch above it, it took maybe less than 3 seconds for the PETG to be pliable but put the holes in the tubing. Low setting + having it a bit higher took maybe 20-30 seconds before it got bendable.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> This is the one I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV?keywords=heat%20gun&qid=1447081518&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1 on high with the tube maybe an inch above it, it took maybe less than 3 seconds for the PETG to be pliable but put the holes in the tubing. Low setting + having it a bit higher took maybe 20-30 seconds before it got bendable.


Keep the tube at least 3" away from the heat gun. An inch is too close, especially if it is on high.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Keep the tube at least 3" away from the heat gun. An inch is too close, especially if it is on high.


Ya I figured that out the first time lol. What does moving the tubing left and right do? I understand why you have to rotate it like roasting a boar but don't understand the side to side motion.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Side to side while rotating allows for the tube not to tear and bend properly to the angles you need it too


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Ya I figured that out the first time lol. What does moving the tubing left and right do? I understand why you have to rotate it like roasting a boar but don't understand the side to side motion.


As you bend the tubing, there is stress not only at the point of the bend but also to at least an inch or 2 on each side. Making it more pliable by heating that length will make the bend more even with less likelihood of defects.


----------



## xxdarkreap3rxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> As you bend the tubing, there is stress not only at the point of the bend but also to at least an inch or 2 on each side. Making it more pliable by heating that length will make the bend more even with less likelihood of defects.


I tried it but the bends didn't look as good since they were so wide. Here's what I have so far


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks pretty clean for a first run at it.









~Ceadder


----------



## emsj86

What I did on one of my bends is I bought three inserts as there really cheap. Than cut it so I could than heat it up bend out it in the case and than re heat if needed. Worked well. Also as for the left to right motion that is mainly so your not focusing heat on one specific area. Go left to right 3-4 inches o. Your area you want to bend it will keep from getting the bubbles. Also I always use dish soap and water in a bowl than slightly dip my silcone insert (not the whole thing ) and it allows for it to be inserted and removed and reinserted easily


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Better than most I see........
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxdarkreap3rxx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Keep the tube at least 3" away from the heat gun. An inch is too close, especially if it is on high.
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I figured that out the first time lol. What does moving the tubing left and right do? I understand why you have to rotate it like roasting a boar but don't understand the side to side motion.
Click to expand...

It keeps the already heated areas hot,you dont want uneven heating,this is exactly what causes the initial heat stress points leading to later fail. The more even the heating,the better the bend performance.

A good rule of thumb when the tube is ready. 1. The tube turns glassy. 2. When you hold the tube vertical from the top and give it a wiggle,it should move like spaghetti on the bend point with little resistance


----------



## tistou77

Hello

What you use as "tools" to bend the tubes
Monsoon, Primochill, other?

I tested the Monsoon, but the EK / Bitspower 12/16 tubes are a bit "bigger" than the Monsoon 13/16, and it makes me a small trace in bending (not visible, I feel just passing the finger

Thanks


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Better than most I see........
> It keeps the already heated areas hot,you dont want uneven heating,this is exactly what causes the initial heat stress points leading to later fail. The more even the heating,the better the bend performance.
> 
> A good rule of thumb when the tube is ready. 1. The tube turns glassy. 2. When you hold the tube vertical from the top and give it a wiggle,it should move like spaghetti on the bend point with little resistance


Yup and when it's spaghetti like it makes it sooo easy to bend how you need it

I used (borrowed) a Monsoon Bending kit (Red one) for my Primochill tubing lol


----------



## Solonowarion

Anyone know of any 7.5 mm bending cord for 8 mm ID e22? I can only find 7mm from mcmaster which will work fine but just wanted to check first.


----------



## tistou77

1st time for the rigid tubing, I'm pretty satisfied (some bends are not very nice, I think redo later)
And I do not like the tube from the pump to the graphics card, but in the other sense, the tube does not pass with the PCIe cable from the sound card
Sorry for the quality of photos (some are still in paper towel







)

 
 
 
 
 
 

I even made a part of MORA3 outside in rigid tubing


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Hmm I wonder if I should do a lot of bends or throw in some 90degree fittings. Really depends.


45 degree fittings!!! They look so much better. Check out the horizontal and vertical 45's that I did (above and below gpu). And BTW, the Bitspower Enhanced Rotary 45's are a dream. Its an angled piece with a built in fitting! Of course I didnt have those installed in this pic, but I used them later and love them (btw, I hate Bitspower but those fittings are great). Its hard to see but the bend (horizontal 45 degree) is right before the small res. The other you can clearly see going into the gpu. I cant believe how much my system has changed. Sorry for the terrible picture. Its the only one I have


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> 1st time for the rigid tubing, I'm pretty satisfied (some bends are not very nice, I think redo later)
> And I do not like the tube from the pump to the graphics card, but in the other sense, the tube does not pass with the PCIe cable from the sound card
> Sorry for the quality of photos (some are still in paper towel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Oh man, dem bends across two-planes!! First time? Youre application for for a trial-period of Godmode is pending approval








Great work!! Two-plane bends are very difficult. Takes a lot of patience and its something that I usually dont recommend for people on their first time (heck I dont even do two-plane or mroe bends unless I absolutely have to)

The bends in the pics I cited also compliment each other very well. They look like two pieces of a tube puzzle that were just slightly separated to show that, "yes, they do in fact, fit perfectly together"


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Oh man, dem bends across two-planes!! First time? Youre application for for a trial-period of Godmode is pending approval
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great work!! Two-plane bends are very difficult. Takes a lot of patience and its something that I usually dont recommend for people on their first time (heck I dont even do two-plane or mroe bends unless I absolutely have to)
> 
> The bends in the pics I cited also compliment each other very well. They look like two pieces of a tube puzzle that were just slightly separated to show that, "yes, they do in fact, fit perfectly together"


Yes first time
What do you mean by "bends across two-planes" ?


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Yes first time
> What do you mean by "bends across two-planes" ?


Oh, bending across two planes?? Its what you did like a boss. For example, you have horizontal (plane 1) and a vertical (plane 2) bend in the same length of pipe. So, your pipe bends up 90 degrees and at the top of the bend it immediately goes 90 degrees perpendicular. Thats sweet. And its not easy for first time benders because you have to get the center of the bend measured right otherwise it wont line up to your blocks. I spent a lot of time, and a lot of wasted tubing, being off and then having to trim down each end of the tube little by little, or the center of one bend was so far off that it just couldnt work at all

Ive labeled them here with the red arrows. (BTW, you actually bent on 4 planes here because you go back to horizontal and then vertical again!)


----------



## Ceadderman

If you lok closely you will see that's a 34 Plane tube.









~Ceadder


----------



## taowulf

Color me impressed. I love to see complex hard tubing without tons of fittings.


----------



## tistou77

Ah ok, More bends on the same tube (my English is not great







)
Indeed, the longer tube to 4 bends at 90°
I could do less, but the tube will not be visible


----------



## tistou77

At first, I made this montage (I did not test it), I did not like too much the tubes at the graphics card / PCH to the outside of the case,
for you, which you prefer?


----------



## Eusbwoa18

2 thumbs up! I tried those kind of bends myself and gave up after 2 days worth of wasted tubing.







Well done!


----------



## wermad

hello guys, waiting for my hard-line fittings to come in. In the mean time I got my BP 12mm tube in. I still wasn't sure how to cut it but I had some spare 1/2x3/4 tube and for testing i used my 10" mitter saw w/ a fine cutting blade (60 tooth). As long as you held it down, it did pretty nice and straight cuts. Wasn't too sure how the thinner bp tube would fare but it came out good. I used a blade to chamfer the inside and I'll take fine sand paper for the outside once I'm plumbing my loop. Just make sure you cover your tube as it can easily scratch on a rough surface (I taped it or used the plastic sleeve the tube came in). Its Important to hold down the tube otherwise the blade can cause kick-back and snap/shatter the tube. Also, take into account the blade thickness at the teeth and cut outside of the line to avoid shortening the tube.


----------



## Ithanul

Yeah, multiple bends are a pain. Think it took me three tries for the three bend one I did from rad to cpu. But it does feel nice once you complete a rigid build.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ithanul*
> 
> Yeah, multiple bends are a pain. Think it took me three tries for the three bend one I did from rad to cpu. But it does feel nice once you complete a rigid build.


I have more acrylic. I plan to keep practicing. I just needed to get my system running so I could do some serious FO4 over winter break.


----------



## Tomiger

Speaking of multiple tries, this is the result of my first time working with rigid tubing from about 8 months ago (haven't done any more since but I will be doing some for my next build):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















I'm pretty sure each section of tubing took at least 2 tries haha. The fact that this rig is built into a desk didn't make my job any easier when it came to making measurements (hard to get my hands/head down in there!). Also I had to deal with 2 or 3 very long stretches of tubing because of the location of the components, not to mention some pretty tricky bends. But I don't like the looking of 90 degree fittings, so I made every bend.

But it was well worth the effort and purchasing of extra tubing! I don't think I'd ever go back to flex tubing


----------



## rolldog

Has anyone tried Monsoon's Borosilicate tubing?


----------



## Alpina 7

What did you use to paint your light bars red? wanting to do the same thing to mine


----------



## rolldog

I'm in the middle of my first watercooled build using hard line acrylic tubing, and I have a question about fittings I'm hoping someone can answer for me. I've already installed some hard line compression fittings and I installed some of the Bitspower 90 degree multi link adapter, which has a threaded G1/4" connector on one end and a compression fitting for 10/12 tubing on the other, I used those mostly to connect all my waterblocks on my MB together. Let's say I didn't like the way they looked or something, could I use something like a 90 degree fitting with internal G1/4" threading and then attach a hard line compression fitting to it? I guess I'm just trying to figure out if any type of fittings have internal threading, could they be used with either soft tubing or hard tubing? Would you just need different types of fittings for each end?

I'm digging the acrylic tubing a lot, I just wish I wouldn't have bought so many Koolance QD3 quick disconnects for my last build. I still have some that have never been opened.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> could I use something like a 90 degree fitting with internal G1/4" threading and then attach a hard line compression fitting to it? I guess I'm just trying to figure out if any type of fittings have internal threading, could they be used with either soft tubing or hard tubing? Would you just need different types of fittings for each end?


You most certainly can:

Here is one example - albeit showing BP's 12/16mm Enhanced hardline compression type fittings with two different 90 Deg fittings.


Just select whatever suitable 90 deg fitting you prefer that has female G1/4" threads and simply screw the appropriate style/size hardline fitting directly into both sides. If you want a soft tubing connection on one side - simply unscrew the hardline fitting and screw on a standard soft tubing compression fitting and away you go.

Not a cheap way of achieving a 90 deg bend - but can look cool







in some instances eg:


----------



## Ronski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Nice guide
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to add a tip. After bending, fitting and cutting to size, you can strengthen the acrylic with a process called annealing. Very simple. Switch your oven to 80C (175F), switch *off* fan-assisted. This is just below softening temperature. Put a sheet of grease proof paper on a flat baking tray and cook your pipe for 2 hours. Then switch off oven but don't open it yet; let it cool down naturally. This allows the acrylic to rearrange any microscopic stress fractures. It's especially important for the ends of the pipe which you are about to force into the Bitspower C47 fittings.
> 
> Oh and another thing. If you're having trouble with a too-hot airgun, then a decent hairdryer can also easily reach softening temperature.


I tried this last night, set the oven to 80c and turned off fan assisted. All my bends seem to have relaxed a bit, meaning they no longer fit. Luckily I used my trial set of pipes not the final ones. I don't even think the oven was that hot, it didn't feel like it was 80c.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> You most certainly can:
> 
> Here is one example - albeit showing BP's 12/16mm Enhanced hardline compression type fittings with two different 90 Deg fittings.
> 
> 
> Just select whatever suitable 90 deg fitting you prefer that has female G1/4" threads and simply screw the appropriate style/size hardline fitting directly into both sides. If you want a soft tubing connection on one side - simply unscrew the hardline fitting and screw on a standard soft tubing compression fitting and away you go.
> 
> Not a cheap way of achieving a 90 deg bend - but can look cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> in some instances eg:


Awesome, that's exactly what I want to do, except in white. I'm running 2 loops, each has a different color coolant and a different color fitting. I should have thought about this a little more before going with a white and blue theme, since blue fittings are fairly new and the blue fittings made by different manufacturers don't exactly match. I'm considering swapping out the blue ones for something else since I'm having trouble finding T fittings and extensions. I just don't know what I would use unless I swapped them all out for white, since white fittings are more plentiful. What really sucks is having a box full of Koolance nickel fittings and QD3s, which I used before deciding to use acrylic in this new build.

I must say, I love the look of your rig. The old school flow meter really puts it over the top.


----------



## rolldog

As I'm trying to finish up my build, which is my first rig cooled with acrylic tubing, I have a couple of questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me.

I've decided to use the Bitspower C48 mini hard line fittings for my SLI, but they're so small (rather not very deep fittings) would anyone happen to have any idea what length I can cut my tubing to so I can hookup my 2 GPUs in SLI on an RVE? I feel like the taking isn't long enough, which it might be, because the Bitspower C48 mini fittings don't have much depth to them to hold onto the tubing without popping out.

Second, I keep seeing pressure release valves. Would these be necessary for each one of my loops so I can tell in the pressure is getting too high for one of the tubes to break loose from these Bitspower Mini C48 fittings? If anyone had an idea about how long these should be cut so they won't pop out of the fittings (on the RVE, I believe it's 4 slots between card &2 when running SLI.

I would really appreciate some advice here since I've been working on this build forever. Thanks.


----------



## rolldog

I bought 2 pairs of these Bitspower C48 multi link adapter minis
I was hoping to use these with some acrylic tubing to connect my GPUs in SLI. I hooked them up before sticking my GPUs in my rig and discovered that I'm probably going to have to add my GPUs to my rig before installing the SLI tubing because the tubing comes out so easily. Now I'm having second thoughts about using them because I don't want them to pop lose whenever my system is running. Is there any secret to using these fittings or do you just have to cut the tubing to the exact millimeter to get a good fit?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I bought 2 pairs of these Bitspower C48 multi link adapter minis
> I was hoping to use these with some acrylic tubing to connect my GPUs in SLI. I hooked them up before sticking my GPUs in my rig and discovered that I'm probably going to have to add my GPUs to my rig before installing the SLI tubing because the tubing comes out so easily. Now I'm having second thoughts about using them because I don't want them to pop lose whenever my system is running. Is there any secret to using these fittings or do you just have to cut the tubing to the exact millimeter to get a good fit?


The Bitspower C47's and 48's are *Really Finicky* about which tubing you use with them.

Don't trust anything but Bitspower 12/10 tubing.

I used to be able to use E22 tubing with them but it seems that the E22 that I have in stock does not fit any of the newer C47's I've bought. . . . won't go in, not even with the o rings removed, so the bore diameter itself is a bit on the shy side.

Bitspower has precut tubing pieces made for SLI setups in various slot spacings, (2, 3, 4, & 5, iirc) you might want to look at them since they are pretty cheap, and shipping will be cheap as they aren't a meter long.

3 slot spacing for example:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-cltac-s3-crystal-link-tube-set-for-3-slots.html

Darlene


----------



## MedRed

I wouldn't use them. You can see my build that was completely built out of Bitspower SLI tubing and fittings. I bought a bunch of C48s and ended up not using any of them as they didn't make a secure fit with the tubing.


----------



## rolldog

I have 4 x 500mm pieces of Bitspower tubing. According to Bitspower, the 4 slot is 55mm long
. It seems like if I can cut it just right, the pressure between the GPUs should keep the tubing in place. If I look at the pre-cut EK 4 slot tubing, it's measured at 61.3mm. So, I'm not quite sure of the discrepancy. I guess I can always cut a little extra off, but I would rather have it a mm or so longer than what they recommend, or at least to where it's long enough where it can't be installed, or taken apart, while the GPUs are in their slots. This is making me nervous. I might use different fittings.


----------



## MedRed

my connectors for all of my tubing are c47s and they make a nice tight fit that requires you to work the tubing and the fitting apart if you what to remove the fitting. The c48's would slip on and off way too easy and wouldn't stay. I just didn't trust my them on my build.


----------



## Jakusonfire

There is variation in OD of all tubing no matter what the brand. I use EK tube with my bitspower c47s and it has a nice secure fit. If you do buy the same brand tubing as your fittings then at least you have proper grounds to demand an RMA if it doesn't fit properly.
This variation is why it botheres me so much that companies like monsoon and Alphacool use metric lables for imperial sizes. It can be tricky getting a good fit even if the tube is meant to be the correct size let alone if you buy imperial thinking it's metric. It's so stupidly needless too.

C48s are really designed for tight spaces where 47s won't fit properly like single slot card spacings. A large gap like x99 4 slots would be much better served with full size fittings. Or even better a proper bridge.


----------



## FuzzDad

I've never had any issue w/Rigid Revolver Compression Fittings. I move my PC every weekend between several homes on a 180 mile drive (we're renovating a home) and never had my Primochill PETG pipe slip out. And my lines are longer than usual (just my visual taste) so they a better chance of popping out than shorter, tighter, builds. Here's a crappy pic (I need to break out my DSLR and take good shots):



I'm sold on rigid lines...for me they make things more professional (you have more control over the look-and-feel of your project). Now I just need to work on wiring...


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Yeah, the Revolvers have a really good grip when used with the 1/2" Primochill tubing - just don't use 12mm OD tubing. I used only water (no lube/grease) to assemble and those things are on there. I've moved that computer a few times as well, no leaks or drips since June '15.


----------



## Ithanul

Got Revolvers as well, but used tubing from Taps Plastic instead. So far they hold in there for over a year now.







That considering I have moved it a bit on occasions to vacuum under the case.


----------



## rolldog

Well, I got my C48 fittings to fit snug on my SLI.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

C48's are only really good for close fitting ports on the same plane,anything else I would view with suspicion....


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Are these bitspower rigid compression fittings any good for acrylic or is it better to go with the c47s?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-bitspower-g1-4-matte-black-enhance-multi-link-for-acrylic-tube-od-12mm.html#!prettyPhoto

Going to switch to acrylic tubing for the first time soon and i'm debating between those fittings with bitspower crystal link tube or ek hdc fittings with ek hd tube.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Are these bitspower rigid compression fittings any good for acrylic or is it better to go with the c47s?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/hot-bitspower-g1-4-matte-black-enhance-multi-link-for-acrylic-tube-od-12mm.html#!prettyPhoto
> 
> Going to switch to acrylic tubing for the first time soon and i'm debating between those fittings with bitspower crystal link tube or ek hdc fittings with ek hd tube.


They are great for acrylic or any hard tube. The Bitspower and EK fittings are very very similar in the way they work.

Both my favorite hard tube fittings by a long way, with just the slight visual differences to separate and choose between them.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> They are great for acrylic or any hard tube. The Bitspower and EK fittings are very very similar in the way they work.
> 
> Both my favorite hard tube fittings by a long way, with just the slight visual differences to separate and choose between them.


awesome, good to know they work well. Gonna be a tough choice between the two.


----------



## MR-e

Hi guys,

I need some help regarding fitting choice. I'll be using BP 10/12 tube and need suggestions on which fittings to connect my components.

Rad Out - 1x 90 Degree Rotary Adapter, 1x C47 Adapter
Rad In - I'll use a soft tube fitting - 1x 3/8 5/8

CPU In - 1x C47 Adapter
CPU Out - 1x C47 Adapter

90 Degree Adapters - BP 12mm Adapter - Are these safe to connect long tubing? I want to run straight tubes only without bending and will need a lot of these guys.

Or would I be better off with these guys coupled with 2x C47's - 90 Degree Adapters?

I also like these adapters too, but again, how safe are these to use with long tube runs? 90 Degree Multi Link Adapters

Thank you guys for the help!!


----------



## jvillaveces

Using Bitspower tubing ("None Chamfer PETG 16mm OD Tube) and BP C89 fittings, how much extra tubing should I calculate to go inside the fittings, i.e, if I install the fittings and measure from their outer surface to figure out the length I need to cut the tube, how much should I add to the measurement for the piece that goes inside the fitting?

EDIT: I guess the technical term for the information I need is seating depth, So, does anyone know the seating depth of the Bitspower 16 mm push fittings (C89)?


----------



## SultanOfWalmart

Quick question for you guys and gals.

It feels like a good time to update the water loop and I was thinking about switching to rigid tubing, however, I also would like to avoid dropping $100+ on new fittings. My current loop contains BP G1/4" 1/2 (3/4 OD) fittings, rotary adapters, 90 degree rotary adapters, and male to male rotary adapters.

Can any of those be recycled for rigid tubing?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SultanOfWalmart*
> 
> My current loop contains BP G1/4" 1/2 (3/4 OD) fittings, rotary adapters, 90 degree rotary adapters, and male to male rotary adapters.
> 
> Can any of those be recycled for rigid tubing?


You should be able to reuse the majority of adaptors, extenders and the like as they simply consist of G1/4" male or female ends.

The only items that you will not be able to reuse are items such as compression fittings which are obviously not suitable for hardline due to having an end that is designed for soft tubing attachment only.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Using Bitspower tubing ("None Chamfer PETG 16mm OD Tube) and BP C89 fittings, how much extra tubing should I calculate to go inside the fittings, i.e, if I install the fittings and measure from their outer surface to figure out the length I need to cut the tube, how much should I add to the measurement for the piece that goes inside the fitting?
> 
> EDIT: I guess the technical term for the information I need is seating depth, So, does anyone know the seating depth of the Bitspower 16 mm push fittings (C89)?


Likey 8mm +/- for deflection. I know that my Monsoon Economies are 8mm. They are shorter than the EK hardline fittings so am figuring they're slightly under 10mm. But your question would probably receive a better answer in the EK Club thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Using Bitspower tubing ("None Chamfer PETG 16mm OD Tube) and BP C89 fittings, how much extra tubing should I calculate to go inside the fittings, i.e, if I install the fittings and measure from their outer surface to figure out the length I need to cut the tube, how much should I add to the measurement for the piece that goes inside the fitting?
> 
> EDIT: I guess the technical term for the information I need is seating depth, So, does anyone know the seating depth of the Bitspower 16 mm push fittings (C89)?
> 
> 
> 
> Likey 8mm +/- for deflection. I know that my Monsoon Economies are 8mm. They are shorter than the EK hardline fittings so am figuring they're slightly under 10mm. But your question would probably receive a better answer in the EK Club thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Thanks, but I don't think the folks at the EK club are the best crowd to ask about Bitspower products. At any rate, the fittings should be here tomorrow, so I'll just measure them directly,


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Using Bitspower tubing ("None Chamfer PETG 16mm OD Tube) and BP C89 fittings, how much extra tubing should I calculate to go inside the fittings, i.e, if I install the fittings and measure from their outer surface to figure out the length I need to cut the tube, how much should I add to the measurement for the piece that goes inside the fitting?
> 
> EDIT: I guess the technical term for the information I need is seating depth, So, does anyone know the seating depth of the Bitspower 16 mm push fittings (C89)?
> 
> 
> 
> Likey 8mm +/- for deflection. I know that my Monsoon Economies are 8mm. They are shorter than the EK hardline fittings so am figuring they're slightly under 10mm. But your question would probably receive a better answer in the EK Club thread.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks, but I don't think the folks at the EK club are the best crowd to ask about Bitspower products. At any rate, the fittings should be here tomorrow, so I'll just measure them directly,
Click to expand...

Oh sorry bout that, my son was crying for a bottle so I got distracted came back and took it up from where I thought you were at. You are indeed right about the clash of knowledge.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

But the EK Club probably would be a good group to ask about BP's fittings, not everyone that uses EK blocks only uses EK fittings


----------



## v1ral

Odd question and prolly in yhe wrong place, but here it goes.

PPCS has a sale on monsoon economy fittings with 1/2 OD size and im wondering if i will have issues using primochill 1/2 OD PETG tube, I chose this tubing cause its quite cheap for a pack of 4x36inch. I plan on buying 2 packs, which i am hoping will give me some wiggle room if i screw up the first few at the start.
Thoughts?


----------



## Techgmr

Is replacing acrylic tubing necessary as regular maintenance?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Does anybody have some suggestions on how or what tools to use to bend acrylic in very tight spaces such as going from a vrm block to cpu block to ram block?

I had my first attempt at bending acrylic a couple nights ago to get my ram and vrms under water. I have the full monsoon bending kit and while it works great for longer runs, it does not work at all for short ones due to the size of the mandrels. This left me doing one 90 degree bend using a mandrel which came out great and then having to more or less free hand the second one which looks absolutely awful. It was extremely time consuming and took multiple attempts to get the lengths correct.

You can see how horrible my bends came out in these pics.




They'll have to be redone in a few weeks when i convert the entire loop to acrylic. I really do not want to buy a bunch of 90 degree fittings to make it easy. The way i was planning the tubing runs for my entire loop involve a lot of 90 degree bends that are very close together.

What tools do you guys use for tight spaces like this and what methods for bending do you use?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Does anybody have some suggestions on how what tools to use to bend acrylic in very tight spaces such as going from a vrm block to cpu block to ram block?
> 
> I had my first attempt at bending acrylic a couple nights ago to get my ram and vrms under water. I have the full monsoon bending kit and while it works great for longer runs, it does not work at all for short ones due to the size of the mandrels. This left me doing one 90 degree bend using a mandrel which came out great and then having to more or less free hand the second one which looks absolutely awful. It was extremely time consuming and took multiple attempts to get the lengths correct.
> 
> You can see how horrible my bends came out in these pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They'll have to be redone in a few weeks when i convert the entire loop to acrylic. I really do not want to buy a bunch of 90 degree fittings to make it easy. The way i was planning the tubing runs for my entire loop involve a lot of 90 degree bends that are very close together.
> 
> What tools do you guys use for tight spaces like this and what methods for bending do you use?


Maybe, instead of two 90 deg bends packed close together, you can go off to one side a few inches, put a 180 and return with a final 90 to your original destination? It would look a lot busier, but all your vends would be neat and in place. Alternatively, you could try 90 deg fittings and extenders or d-plugs, leaving short straight runs between fittings, which you could even put all at the same height if you use the correct fittings (this would be the more expensive but better looking option). Finally, you could find a small-radius bending form, like a wrench socket or something similar, and stick to your current strategy, which will involve a lot of cussing and probably a lot of wasted tubing.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Maybe, instead of two 90 deg bends packed close together, you can go off to one side a few inches, put a 180 and return with a final 90 to your original destination? It would look a lot busier, but all your vends would be neat and in place. Alternatively, you could try 90 deg fittings and extenders or d-plugs, leaving short straight runs between fittings, which you could even put all at the same height if you use the correct fittings (this would be the more expensive but better looking option). Finally, you could find a small-radius bending form, like a wrench socket or something similar, and stick to your current strategy, which will involve a lot of cussing and probably a lot of wasted tubing.


Yes i thought about making the runs much longer in that area so that i could pull off perfect 90 degree angles using the monsoon kit. And as i mentioned, 90 degree fittings along with extenders as need are another option. However, i'm not interested in the easy way out and as i said, the way i intend to make all of my runs involve 90 degree bends close together. Its just a matter of getting the correct tools or a certain method to get the job done. I have enough tubing and time to cuss at the thing for weeks if thats what it takes.

A couple of sockets screwed down to the board along with a piece of wood in between to keep things straight might work, hmm...


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Maybe, instead of two 90 deg bends packed close together, you can go off to one side a few inches, put a 180 and return with a final 90 to your original destination? It would look a lot busier, but all your vends would be neat and in place. Alternatively, you could try 90 deg fittings and extenders or d-plugs, leaving short straight runs between fittings, which you could even put all at the same height if you use the correct fittings (this would be the more expensive but better looking option). Finally, you could find a small-radius bending form, like a wrench socket or something similar, and stick to your current strategy, which will involve a lot of cussing and probably a lot of wasted tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes i thought about making the runs much longer in that area so that i could pull off perfect 90 degree angles using the monsoon kit. And as i mentioned, 90 degree fittings along with extenders as need are another option. However, i'm not interested in the easy way out and as i said, the way i intend to make all of my runs involve 90 degree bends close together. Its just a matter of getting the correct tools or a certain method to get the job done. I have enough tubing and time to cuss at the thing for weeks if thats what it takes.
> 
> A couple of sockets screwed down to the board along with a piece of wood in between to keep things straight might work, hmm...
Click to expand...

:doh:Some time ago I saw a post (I believe it was @Ceadderman?) about a jig made from two boards, with grooves cut on the top board for the exact profile of the bend you want. IIRC this method allows for much tighter radiuses on the bends. At the time I was impressed with the ingenuity. I wish I recalled the original post, but unfortunately I don't

EDIT: I found it! It's a build log by @Bertovzki. Look at post 50 here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1549197/liquid-acid-corsair-750d-uv-yellow-green-rgb-acrylic-build-log-bertovzki/40


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Odd question and prolly in yhe wrong place, but here it goes.
> 
> PPCS has a sale on monsoon economy fittings with 1/2 OD size and im wondering if i will have issues using primochill 1/2 OD PETG tube, I chose this tubing cause its quite cheap for a pack of 4x36inch. I plan on buying 2 packs, which i am hoping will give me some wiggle room if i screw up the first few at the start.
> Thoughts?


Go with Monsoon PETG. No, not as "cheap" but @ half the price per box of Economies(price of the fittings, not the tubing), more than worth getting things right the first time(purchase-wise) rather than take a chance.

Only $18 a box for the stuff too. And no matter which you go bear in mind that the shipping quote will add to the overall cost.









Oh and to answer the question below yours...

No replacement necessary but do make sure to inspect tubing to alert you to the if and when scenario. If you use acrylic tubing over PETG, this is a rule of thumb. If you tend to move your system a lot it should be considered.

~Ceadder


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go with Monsoon PETG. No, not as "cheap" but @ half the price per box of Economies(price of the fittings, not the tubing), more than worth getting things right the first time(purchase-wise) rather than take a chance.
> 
> Only $18 a box for the stuff too. And no matter which you go bear in mind that the shipping quote will add to the overall cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and to answer the question below yours...
> 
> No replacement necessary but do make sure to inspect tubing to alert you to the if and when scenario. If you use acrylic tubing over PETG, this is a rule of thumb. If you tend to move your system a lot it should be considered.
> 
> ~Ceadder


So monsoon fittings and tubes is what you recommend? Are the economy fittings good??


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Go with Monsoon PETG. No, not as "cheap" but @ half the price per box of Economies(price of the fittings, not the tubing), more than worth getting things right the first time(purchase-wise) rather than take a chance.
> 
> Only $18 a box for the stuff too. And no matter which you go bear in mind that the shipping quote will add to the overall cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and to answer the question below yours...
> 
> No replacement necessary but do make sure to inspect tubing to alert you to the if and when scenario. If you use acrylic tubing over PETG, this is a rule of thumb. If you tend to move your system a lot it should be considered.
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So monsoon fittings and tubes is what you recommend? Are the economy fittings good??
Click to expand...

Q1: Yes.

Q2: You won't be sorry. They are quality fittings. I have 24 of them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bertovzki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> :doh:Some time ago I saw a post (I believe it was @Ceadderman?) about a jig made from two boards, with grooves cut on the top board for the exact profile of the bend you want. IIRC this method allows for much tighter radiuses on the bends. At the time I was impressed with the ingenuity. I wish I recalled the original post, but unfortunately I don't
> 
> EDIT: I found it! It's a build log by @Bertovzki. Look at post 50 here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1549197/liquid-acid-corsair-750d-uv-yellow-green-rgb-acrylic-build-log-bertovzki/40


The jig works a treat...you can even heat the bend in place in jig and smooth out any imperfections in bend after by heating and smoothing out any wrinkle with your fingers ...gloves on..also you can do 2 tight radius bends close together without softening and loosing first bend...which is a problem with other systems...you can also pencil the center line of a bend onto the mdf to get accurate bends....iv been focusing on other things like music...build will been finished soon...has not been important to me...but been too long so will sort it soon


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> :doh:Some time ago I saw a post (I believe it was @Ceadderman?) about a jig made from two boards, with grooves cut on the top board for the exact profile of the bend you want. IIRC this method allows for much tighter radiuses on the bends. At the time I was impressed with the ingenuity. I wish I recalled the original post, but unfortunately I don't
> 
> EDIT: I found it! It's a build log by @Bertovzki. Look at post 50 here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1549197/liquid-acid-corsair-750d-uv-yellow-green-rgb-acrylic-build-log-bertovzki/40


thank you for finding that, looks like it will work incredibly well for x/y/z axis bends
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bertovzki*
> 
> The jig works a treat...you can even heat the bend in place in jig and smooth out any imperfections in bend after by heating and smoothing out any wrinkle with your fingers ...gloves on..also you can do 2 tight radius bends close together without softening and loosing first bend...which is a problem with other systems...you can also pencil the center line of a bend onto the mdf to get accurate bends....iv been focusing on other things like music...build will been finished soon...has not been important to me...but been too long so will sort it soon


that jig looks great, probably what i need to get my build completed exactly how i have envisioned. I just wish most of my tools weren't in storage right now. Building something like that would have to wait until the end of summer when i can get them out.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Odd question and prolly in yhe wrong place, but here it goes.
> 
> PPCS has a sale on monsoon economy fittings with 1/2 OD size and im wondering if i will have issues using primochill 1/2 OD PETG tube, I chose this tubing cause its quite cheap for a pack of 4x36inch. I plan on buying 2 packs, which i am hoping will give me some wiggle room if i screw up the first few at the start.
> Thoughts?


I don't see where it should be an issue, as long as the diameters match up and seal properly you're good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Techgmr*
> 
> Is replacing acrylic tubing necessary as regular maintenance?


Not it's not, as long as there are no stress cracks and the loop is being put back the same way. you should only need to clean the tubing out and re-install. I know I'll be using a few of my original runs but will be making some new ones since I plan on changing where my pump and res are located to freshen the build up.


----------



## v1ral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I don't see where it should be an issue, as long as the diameters match up and seal properly you're good.
> 
> Not it's not, as long as there are no stress cracks and the loop is being put back the same way. you should only need to clean the tubing out and re-install. I know I'll be using a few of my original runs but will be making some new ones since I plan on changing where my pump and res are located to freshen the build up.


So... i should be good mixing brands BUT making sure the sizes are the same?


----------



## v1ral

I have a question with this picture of my rig now, i am wondering whats the best route to take going to hard tubing.
My main concern is making tight bends coming from/to my H220x, like with out using 90s, how tight can i make a bend.
Hete is a picuture:

So with the picture how would should i set this up.
Thanks for your time!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> I have a question with this picture of my rig now, i am wondering whats the best route to take going to hard tubing.
> My main concern is making tight bends coming from/to my H220x, like with out using 90s, how tight can i make a bend.
> Hete is a picuture:
> 
> So with the picture how would should i set this up.
> Thanks for your time!!


Shortest routes possible from one component to the next. That's the best way.









~Ceadder


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> So... i should be good mixing brands BUT making sure the sizes are the same?


Should be safe as long as sizes match. I don't use any of the water cooling brands acrylic. Been rocking TAPS Plastic instead. I got a butt load since it was so cheap.







Still need to get my lazy arse and polish them though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v1ral*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I don't see where it should be an issue, as long as the diameters match up and seal properly you're good.
> 
> Not it's not, as long as there are no stress cracks and the loop is being put back the same way. you should only need to clean the tubing out and re-install. I know I'll be using a few of my original runs but will be making some new ones since I plan on changing where my pump and res are located to freshen the build up.
> 
> 
> 
> So... i should be good mixing brands BUT making sure the sizes are the same?
Click to expand...

Yes you *can* mix manufacturers and sometimes it's simply unavoidable.

But why would you if you don't have to?

Monsoon, sells PETG that their Fittings are designed for.

Same for EK.

Same for BP.

So to uncomplicate things, I suggest that one *always* pick up parts known to be compatible, rather than jumping into hardline tubing on the cheap and having to source parts of questionable compatibility. I don't have any loyalty to any one brand. I've used all the big name brands in the past in my flex tubing loop. EK, BP, Monsoon. But if you can get fittings on the cheap with the economies, then go with Monsoon's PETG tubing. You know that the tubing will be compatible. If you go EK, go with theirs and so on and so forth. You'll be happier if you did it this way as that eliminates the compatibility factor.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Using Bitspower tubing ("None Chamfer PETG 16mm OD Tube) and BP C89 fittings, how much extra tubing should I calculate to go inside the fittings, i.e, if I install the fittings and measure from their outer surface to figure out the length I need to cut the tube, how much should I add to the measurement for the piece that goes inside the fitting?
> 
> EDIT: I guess the technical term for the information I need is seating depth, So, does anyone know the seating depth of the Bitspower 16 mm push fittings (C89)?


That info is on the very first post in this thread.....


----------



## jvillaveces

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Using Bitspower tubing ("None Chamfer PETG 16mm OD Tube) and BP C89 fittings, how much extra tubing should I calculate to go inside the fittings, i.e, if I install the fittings and measure from their outer surface to figure out the length I need to cut the tube, how much should I add to the measurement for the piece that goes inside the fitting?
> 
> EDIT: I guess the technical term for the information I need is seating depth, So, does anyone know the seating depth of the Bitspower 16 mm push fittings (C89)?
> 
> 
> 
> That info is on the very first post in this thread.....
Click to expand...

Not really. The first post includes info on 12 mm fittings (C47 and C48), the question was about 16 mm C89.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> false
> Not really. The first post includes info on 12 mm fittings (C47 and C48), the question was about 16 mm C89.


Yes really,the depth of seat is identical,only the diameter has been changed.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> false
> Not really. The first post includes info on 12 mm fittings (C47 and C48), the question was about 16 mm C89.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes really,the depth of seat is identical,only the diameter has been changed.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I guessed as much but could not find confirmation anywhere


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thanks! I guessed as much but could not find confirmation anywhere


I will edit the OP to reflect this,i didnt see that 16mm wasnt covered.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> A couple of sockets screwed down to the board along with a piece of wood in between to keep things straight might work, hmm...


I used hole saws for my mandrels, just drill the bit into a board and stop before the hole saw starts cutting into the board. Then clamp a square stick to the board for a fence, you can move this if you go larger or smaller diameter on the hole saw mandrel.

I got the hole saws out with plans to make a series of different sized mandrels from wood, then realized I could just use the hole saw itself as the mandrel.


----------



## ivoryg37

Does this look ok or should I redo it? Something seems off about it even though it looks like it is 90 degrees.


----------



## Wolfsbora

Personally, I would leave it! Very clean bend!


----------



## ivoryg37

Thanks, I think I will leave it for now and if I have extra tubing once I'm done I may redo it. Something still seems off about it to me in person lol


----------



## Mr_Armageddon

A lot of good information found here. My hard tubing just arrived. Excited to start my new build!


----------



## DarthBaggins

Really debating on upping to 16mm hardline when I redo my runs in JAC vs continuing to use the 1/2 OD I've been using. Not really worried on the price of fittings as I would be selling the Primochill Ghost fittings I have (well some of them lol - Black and White)


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Really debating on upping to 16mm hardline when I redo my runs in JAC vs continuing to use the 1/2 OD I've been using. Not really worried on the price of fittings as I would be selling the Primochill Ghost fittings I have (well some of them lol - Black and White)


I did, and never looking back...1/2 OD just look too small now, the 16mm is harder to bend though, and it's hard to find the right size bending insert for it.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Yeah, I'm sure I can find an insert, the larger seems to look better to me now


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Really debating on upping to 16mm hardline when I redo my runs in JAC vs continuing to use the 1/2 OD I've been using. Not really worried on the price of fittings as I would be selling the Primochill Ghost fittings I have (well some of them lol - Black and White)
> 
> 
> 
> I did, and never looking back...1/2 OD just look too small now, the 16mm is harder to bend though, and it's hard to find the right size bending insert for it.
Click to expand...

The Monsoon 5/8" works perfectly with 16 mm tubing


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Really debating on upping to 16mm hardline when I redo my runs in JAC vs continuing to use the 1/2 OD I've been using. Not really worried on the price of fittings as I would be selling the Primochill Ghost fittings I have (well some of them lol - Black and White)
> 
> 
> 
> I did, and never looking back...1/2 OD just look too small now, the 16mm is harder to bend though, and it's hard to find the right size bending insert for it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The Monsoon 5/8" works perfectly with 16 mm tubing
Click to expand...

Yeah it's pretty thick for 5/8" tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## DarthBaggins

hmmm, thanks to another member I have the toolds to bend 5/8 (16mm) which I did use to bend my 1/2 lol


----------



## ivoryg37

Decided to give PETG a try and regretted it. I must be really bad with PETG but I can't bend it to save my life. Every bend that I do with PETG had a crease in it for some reason. Looks like I will stick to acrylic since I seem to have trouble working with PETG lol


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Decided to give PETG a try and regretted it. I must be really bad with PETG but I can't bend it to save my life. Every bend that I do with PETG had a crease in it for some reason. Looks like I will stick to acrylic since I seem to have trouble working with PETG lol


You're probably over heating or not using an insert that is big enough to contour the shape....try heating in a wider area and higher up from the heat gun, PETG should bend a lot easier than acrylic, so it doesn't require as much heat.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Decided to give PETG a try and regretted it. I must be really bad with PETG but I can't bend it to save my life. Every bend that I do with PETG had a crease in it for some reason. Looks like I will stick to acrylic since I seem to have trouble working with PETG lol
> 
> 
> 
> You're probably over heating or not using an insert that is big enough to contour the shape....try heating in a wider area and higher up from the heat gun, PETG should bend a lot easier than acrylic, so it doesn't require as much heat.
Click to expand...

Nope. He's underheating it and bending it as is. Crimps are a solid indication of not enough heat applied over the radius of the bend.









~Ceadder


----------



## ivoryg37

No clue, I may give it another try. I can bend acrylic tubing fine but with PETG I have troubles for some reason. Anyway, I end up going with acrylic tubing


----------



## krutoydiesel

Gents,

thoughts on my first try at hard line tubing? I tried to avoid using anything but straight push fittings, ended up using three 90s. Thanks to everyone's input into this thread that helped me tons when doing this. First photo is a before:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> You're probably over heating or not using an insert that is big enough to contour the shape....try heating in a wider area and higher up from the heat gun, PETG should bend a lot easier than acrylic, so it doesn't require as much heat.


It's a good thing PETG is easy, for me at least - seems like I always plan ahead just far enough to end up with something like this:



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krutoydiesel*
> 
> Gents,
> 
> thoughts on my first try at hard line tubing? I tried to avoid using anything but straight push fittings, ended up using three 90s. Thanks to everyone's input into this thread that helped me tons when doing this. First photo is a before:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks fine to me!


----------



## jimthenagual

I just finished my first PETG tube build and same as you, I had a very hard time. LOTS of wasted tubing. My final result is just ok. I'll redo at least two of the lines.


----------



## Kranik

So I'm trying to switch a build over to acrylic and figured since everything is going to be single 90° bends it'd be relatively easy. Wrong. I'm down 2000mm of acrylic and have nothing to show but a burnt leg and table flip levels of frustration. Each bend looks more or less like this:





I'm making sure to rotate the tube, move it left to right, have it approximately 70mm/3 inches above the heat gun, etc. I've tried both settings on my heat gun and get the same or similar results each time. Any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Maybe dumb question, but are you using a silicone insert? And are you bending free hand, or around a mandrel?


----------



## Kranik

Not dumb at all, I'm a spoon and forgot to mention that I am using the Monsoon bending kit and the included silicone insert. Definitely not trying freehand.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I don't know, to me it looks like it's too hot at the start/stop of the bend and about right in the middle. All my bending has been PETG, so I'm clueless on acrylic. Hope one of the acrylic gurus can help you get it going your way.


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like you're adding pressure to the tube which seems to have caused the tube to flatten a bit around the corner.

Freehanding is for people with experience(one or two system builds under your belt) and it also looks like your tube was too close to the heat gun.

Get yourself a piece of MDF or particle board approximately 18" square and 1/2" thick. Should be more than enough room to lay down your marks as well as remember to heat the tube about 2-3" away from the heat gun and let the tube start to fall in on itself prior to applying it to the mandrel and only apply enough pressure at the ends of the mandrel to keep from crushing the tube.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like you're adding pressure to the tube which seems to have caused the tube to flatten a bit around the corner.
> 
> Freehanding is for people with experience(one or two system builds under your belt) and it also looks like your tube was too close to the heat gun.
> 
> Get yourself a piece of MDF or particle board approximately 18" square and 1/2" thick. Should be more than enough room to lay down your marks as well as remember to heat the tube about 2-3" away from the heat gun and let the tube start to fall in on itself prior to applying it to the mandrel and only apply enough pressure at the ends of the mandrel to keep from crushing the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I thought I had waited long enough but perhaps not. You're saying the tube, when held parallel to the ground should bend under its own weight? Mine was starting to slack but not really _bend_.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like you're adding pressure to the tube which seems to have caused the tube to flatten a bit around the corner.
> 
> Freehanding is for people with experience(one or two system builds under your belt) and it also looks like your tube was too close to the heat gun.
> 
> Get yourself a piece of MDF or particle board approximately 18" square and 1/2" thick. Should be more than enough room to lay down your marks as well as remember to heat the tube about 2-3" away from the heat gun and let the tube start to fall in on itself prior to applying it to the mandrel and only apply enough pressure at the ends of the mandrel to keep from crushing the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I had waited long enough but perhaps not. You're saying the tube, when held parallel to the ground should bend under its own weight? Mine was starting to slack but not really _bend_.
Click to expand...

A few posts back in this thread, BNeg suggested the tube needs to be the consistency of a properly cooked noodle. I think this is the perfect description of what you are looking for. In my short experience, I have overheated the tube only a couple of times (you know because the plastic bubbles up), but I have started my bend too soon (i.e. not hot enough) with irritating frequency.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> A few posts back in this thread, BNeg suggested the tube needs to be the consistency of a properly cooked noodle. I think this is the perfect description of what you are looking for. In my short experience, I have overheated the tube only a couple of times (you know because the plastic bubbles up), but I have started my bend too soon (i.e. not hot enough) with irritating frequency.


I find that the tube begins to "inflate" (for lack of a better term) long before I get to cooked noodle consistency. Is that to be expected?


----------



## Castaile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Not dumb at all, I'm a spoon and forgot to mention that I am using the Monsoon bending kit and the included silicone insert. Definitely not trying freehand.


Side question, may I ask what size are your tubes?

I'm thinking about getting the 13mm kit but my tubes are 12mm


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> Side question, may I ask what size are your tubes?
> I'm thinking about getting the 13mm kit but my tubes are 12mm


I've got the same setup. Bitspower 500mm length 10/12 tube and the 13mm kit from Monsoon.


----------



## Castaile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> I've got the same setup. Bitspower 500mm length 10/12 tube and the 13mm kit from Monsoon.


and the 13mm insert fits fine?


----------



## Kranik

It seems to fit fine, mine almost seems a bit loose.


----------



## Castaile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> It seems to fit fine, mine almost seems a bit loose.


thanks kranik. I'll give them a try


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like you're adding pressure to the tube which seems to have caused the tube to flatten a bit around the corner.
> 
> Freehanding is for people with experience(one or two system builds under your belt) and it also looks like your tube was too close to the heat gun.
> 
> Get yourself a piece of MDF or particle board approximately 18" square and 1/2" thick. Should be more than enough room to lay down your marks as well as remember to heat the tube about 2-3" away from the heat gun and let the tube start to fall in on itself prior to applying it to the mandrel and only apply enough pressure at the ends of the mandrel to keep from crushing the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I had waited long enough but perhaps not. You're saying the tube, when held parallel to the ground should bend under its own weight? Mine was starting to slack but not really _bend_.
Click to expand...

Yup, pretty much.

But here are some vids from Box Gods (Monsoon) that I think you should watch having the Monsoon kit.











There is one that has fittings mounted to Particle Boards (3) and Gene shows you how to use the rulers and measure out the correct lengths.

It may help you.









~Ceadder


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yup, pretty much.
> 
> But here are some vids from Box Gods (Monsoon) that I think you should watch having the Monsoon kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> There is one that has fittings mounted to Particle Boards (3) and Gene shows you how to use the rulers and measure out the correct lengths.
> 
> It may help you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Welp. Thanks for the help but it would seem as though I'm inept. Following the video and the roughly two minutes of heating and I still end with a similar result as before. During heating it is almost like the tube is inflating like a ballon where the heat is applied, it becomes noticeably large in diameter. When I apply it to the mandrel the inner radius of the bend is clearly depressed compared to the straight runs on either side, and the outer radius of the bend has become almost flat.

+Rep regardless.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> I'm making sure to rotate the tube, *move it left to right*, have it approximately 70mm/3 inches above the heat gun, etc. I've tried both settings on my heat gun and get the same or similar results each time. Any suggestions as to what I am doing wrong?


I don't know if this will help but I had a similar problem when I first started acrylic bending. Instead of moving left and right, stay in one single spot and rotate only in that one spot until the tubing feel like it will bend by itself if you let it go then bend it. I had the same problem when I started where I was moving left and right as well and heating up too much of the tubing causing the tube to bend to look like a noodle because it would bend in multiple places. Try it on one of the tubing that you already wasted

EDIT: are you using acrylic or PETG by the way?


----------



## Kranik

I'll give it a shot in the morning. Between studying for a Constitutional Law final and more failed bending today has drained me.

Acrylic!


----------



## ivoryg37

Yeah definitely just stay in one spot while only rotating. Don't move left or right at all. This was my mistake when I first started bending acrylic. Once I found out I just stay at one spot and only rotating, 90 degree bends became simple for me. Moving left to right is only for 180 degree bends I believe where you need to heat up more tubing.


----------



## Ceadderman

You could conceivably purchase a flat cone tip for your heat gun and get better results with the method of simply concentrating heat in one spot while rotating the tube.









I move side to side while rotating and this is what I ended up with...






I used acrylic tubing.

Yes I had issues to start with but this was my 2nd attempt at bending.

I get to redo all bent tubes because I plan to go with PETG and I have since installed my RAM block, but I held my tubing at 3" and went side to side. Also I rotated at a fairly brisk rotation which may have made the difference.









Apologies for the S4 potato pics.









~Ceadder


----------



## ivoryg37

^ I don't know what it is but I suck with PETG. I can bend acrylic tubing completely fine. Some reason when I moved to PETG I kept getting kinks. No clue why so I end up ditching all my petg tubing haha. Nice bend by the way, I might have to try white acrylic soon.

EDIT: Any update kranik?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> ^ I don't know what it is but I suck with PETG. I can bend acrylic tubing completely fine. Some reason when I moved to PETG I kept getting kinks. No clue why so I end up ditching all my petg tubing haha.
> 
> *Nice bend by the way*, I might have to try white acrylic soon.
> 
> EDIT: Any update kranik?


Thank you. I was really worried when I started out but I only chuffed 1 tube if you can believe that. I have two untouched tubes sitting in the box and a portion of the third tube sitting in my box of odds n ends. I'm holding off until I can get the funds together for a couple boxes of PETG after I complete the accumulation of the rest of my parts. I just need some more fittings and some Passthroughs. Also waiting for my GPU heatsinks to be milled to accept Thermospheres. Those should be back in my hands in a couple weeks. And now I've sold my Radiator, so I need to replace that with EK Radiators.









From what I have heard and read PETG can take a bit more heat to get the proper consistency for clean bends. I don't know how true it is but I have also heard it takes more heat to get them to blister the way acrylic does when too much heat is applied.









~Ceadder


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kranik*
> 
> I find that the tube begins to "inflate" (for lack of a better term) long before I get to cooked noodle consistency. Is that to be expected?


It will even out once you have made the bend then let it cool. The action of pulling it round the mandrel will slightly stretch it.

The poor bends posted above are a solid indication that you have not heated the tube long enough over a wide enough area.


----------



## Kranik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> It will even out once you have made the bend then let it cool. The action of pulling it round the mandrel will slightly stretch it.
> 
> The poor bends posted above are a solid indication that you have not heated the tube long enough over a wide enough area.


Alright, when I get back to the east coast I'll give it another shot. I'm gonna try some E22 tube in addition to the Bitspower stuff, see which one works better. If I continue to fail at life, copper might be in the future.

Thanks for all the help guys.


----------



## Castaile

Just wondering, how important is getting a perfect straight cut on the acrylic tubes for double o-ring fittings


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> Just wondering, how important is getting a perfect straight cut on the acrylic tubes for double o-ring fittings


Do the best you can, but doesn't have to be laser straight..however, you must sand the edges and inner barrel so that you don't have dust in your loop, and jagged edges to tear up the O-rings...i have a machine that cuts the tubes, 2 seconds, straight cuts every time...


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Do the best you can, but doesn't have to be laser straight..however, you must sand the edges and inner barrel so that you don't have dust in your loop, and jagged edges to tear up the O-rings...i have a machine that cuts the tubes, 2 seconds, straight cuts every time...


Where did you find that? What store?


----------



## Ceadderman

Harbor Freight.









~Ceadder


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Harbor Freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you good sir. I pass by one everyday on the drive home.


----------



## Castaile

I'm currently using monsoon's saw with its miter box and I always end up getting a slanted cut towards the bottom. I go slow without pressing down hard on the saw but it somehow gets stuck from time to time.

I wrapped the EK 12mm tube with masking tape so it's firmly sitted into the box but the cut still came out slanted.

I'm thinking about getting a dremel at this point


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Castaile*
> 
> I'm thinking about getting a dremel at this point


Dremel is great for off cuts, but you do need the 90 degree angle attachment because otherwise the body of the dremel gets in the way of the tubing.


----------



## Ypsylon

I'm using pipe cutter for my EK acrylic, bit of 200 grit sandpaper to clean the cut and Dremel for finishing the edges. Works like a charm. Little to no mess unlike saw which was constant pain the back side.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Do the best you can, but doesn't have to be laser straight..however, you must sand the edges and inner barrel so that you don't have dust in your loop, and jagged edges to tear up the O-rings...i have a machine that cuts the tubes, 2 seconds, straight cuts every time...


i'm about to buy one of those, what blade are you using with it?


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> i'm about to buy one of those, what blade are you using with it?


It came with a 3" blade, i bought it at harbor Freight for 26$ after coupon, as many builds as i do, this thing saved me a lot of time and energy...and my lines line up perfectly because of it..

Check ebay and amazon, they have it too...search "mini miter saw"


----------



## Newtocooling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> i'm about to buy one of those, what blade are you using with it?


That saw is awesome!! One more thing to speed up tube prep is this to clean the ends. This one is new and I've not used it.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit.html

This is the one I use but it does cost to have it shipped to the states

http://www.highflow.nl/acrylic-rigid-tubing/acrylic-rigid-tools/acrylic-petg-deburrer-trimmer-12mm-od.html


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> That saw is awesome!! One more thing to speed up tube prep is this to clean the ends. This one is new and I've not used it.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit.html
> 
> This is the one I use but it does cost to have it shipped to the states
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/acrylic-rigid-tubing/acrylic-rigid-tools/acrylic-petg-deburrer-trimmer-12mm-od.html


I didn't have to do that, i just took sand paper and wipe the end off and it was smooth as butter, and i have a cone shape sander i wiped the inside and rinsed and it was done...that saw cuts like a hot knife through butter and doesn't leave any frayed edges..


----------



## Barefooter

Here's a link to the saw. Think I'll pick one of these up too.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> It came with a 3" blade, i bought it at harbor Freight for 26$ after coupon, as many builds as i do, this thing saved me a lot of time and energy...and my lines line up perfectly because of it..
> 
> Check ebay and amazon, they have it too...search "mini miter saw"


yeah i have one on amazon picked out. Uses a 2 inch blade and comes with one but i wanted to get something that will for sure cut acrylic without issue.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newtocooling*
> 
> That saw is awesome!! One more thing to speed up tube prep is this to clean the ends. This one is new and I've not used it.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit.html
> 
> This is the one I use but it does cost to have it shipped to the states
> 
> http://www.highflow.nl/acrylic-rigid-tubing/acrylic-rigid-tools/acrylic-petg-deburrer-trimmer-12mm-od.html


awesome, was hoping someone in the states sold one of those. I'll try out the primochill one. I saw the other one from highflow posted previously but 50eur+shipping is a bit much.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> yeah i have one on amazon picked out. Uses a 2 inch blade and comes with one but i wanted to get something that will for sure cut acrylic without issue.


You will have no problem cutting acrylic, I actually cut an aluminum piece with it.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> It came with a 3" blade, i bought it at harbor Freight for 26$ after coupon, as many builds as i do, this thing saved me a lot of time and energy...and my lines line up perfectly because of it..
> 
> Check ebay and amazon, they have it too...search "mini miter saw"
> 
> 
> 
> yeah i have one on amazon picked out. Uses a 2 inch blade and comes with one but i wanted to get something that will for sure cut acrylic without issue.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> yeah i have one on amazon picked out. Uses a 2 inch blade and comes with one but i wanted to get something that will for sure cut acrylic without issue.
> 
> 
> 
> You will have no problem cutting acrylic, I actually cut an aluminum piece with it.
Click to expand...

I also have the black DrillMaster one from Amazon,

http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Bench-Cut-Off-Miter-Gauge/dp/B006ZB96WQ/ref=pd_sim_469_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41aEDBNLNOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1Z6ACBVRMPMCVRVW4906

Not a bad little saw, but the blade it comes with, while OK on acrylic tubing, isn't that great, and didn't fare well after cutting a piece of aluminum channel.

Ending up buying a new and much better quality blade than it came with, . . . (also tried to find a 2" diamond blade to work with glass tubing, but none in that small size . .)

http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28020-2-Inch-HSS-Blade/dp/B000S6DTT0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

so now the acrylic cuts are even nicer . . . and . .

I bought a proper miter saw and blade at Home Depot for cutting aluminum . . . wise decision on my part for a change . . .

Made fabricating the drop in infinity panel for my X 9 build a whole lot easier.



Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Here's a link to the saw. Think I'll pick one of these up too.
> http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html


Look in their 20% off bar for their coupon. Made it $26 and change before shipping. Am really having to fight off this purchase. Good thing the coupon is good through the 29th.









~Ceadder


----------



## FXformat

Harbor Freight should pay me commission, i've helped them sold a bunch of these...locally and on this forum and youtube and instagram...







at least give me a free blade or something.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well, looks like I have no excuses for badly cut tubing. Just pulled the trigger on the little gem of a chop saw.









~Ceadder


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I also have the black DrillMaster one from Amazon,
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Bench-Cut-Off-Miter-Gauge/dp/B006ZB96WQ/ref=pd_sim_469_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41aEDBNLNOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1Z6ACBVRMPMCVRVW4906
> 
> Not a bad little saw, but the blade it comes with, while OK on acrylic tubing, isn't that great, and didn't fare well after cutting a piece of aluminum channel.
> 
> Ending up buying a new and much better quality blade than it came with, . . . (also tried to find a 2" diamond blade to work with glass tubing, but none in that small size . .)
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28020-2-Inch-HSS-Blade/dp/B000S6DTT0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
> 
> so now the acrylic cuts are even nicer . . . and . .
> 
> I bought a proper miter saw and blade at Home Depot for cutting aluminum . . . wise decision on my part for a change . . .
> 
> Made fabricating the drop in infinity panel for my X 9 build a whole lot easier.
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene


that was one of the saws i was looking at, just bought it along with the blade you linked. Thanks.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IT Diva*
> 
> I also have the black DrillMaster one from Amazon,
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Speed-Bench-Cut-Off-Miter-Gauge/dp/B006ZB96WQ/ref=pd_sim_469_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41aEDBNLNOL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1Z6ACBVRMPMCVRVW4906
> 
> Not a bad little saw, but the blade it comes with, while OK on acrylic tubing, isn't that great, and didn't fare well after cutting a piece of aluminum channel.
> 
> Ending up buying a new and much better quality blade than it came with, . . . (also tried to find a 2" diamond blade to work with glass tubing, but none in that small size . .)
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-28020-2-Inch-HSS-Blade/dp/B000S6DTT0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00
> 
> so now the acrylic cuts are even nicer . . . and . .
> 
> I bought a proper miter saw and blade at Home Depot for cutting aluminum . . . wise decision on my part for a change . . .
> 
> Made fabricating the drop in infinity panel for my X 9 build a whole lot easier.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Darlene
> 
> 
> 
> that was one of the saws i was looking at, just bought it along with the blade you linked. Thanks.
Click to expand...

When I got mine, the blade was not very tight, and would slip and stop spinning during a cut . . .

Took me a few minutes to figure out how to hold the shaft to be able to tighten it. . . . probably shows you in the directions, but first use was a long time after purchase, so I was on my own.

Below is a few pics to make it easy for everyone to see what you have to know to change/tighten the blade.

Here's the release clip to remove the blade guard and the hole to insert a shaft lock into outlined, . . . a small drill works fine to lock the shaft, just rotate the shaft until the drill finds the hole in it. . . Lift up on the lock tab and slide the guard upwards.



Here's the guard removed and the little notch that clips on a ridge is outlined:



Here's the ridge mentioned above outlined and a small drill inserted thru the shaft lock hole to tighten or change a blade:



You do not need to take it apart to remove the guard or service the blade . . . .

I just did it so I could take the pics.

Hope that helps at least someone . . .

Darlene


----------



## Ceadderman

Just got my DrillMaster on Wednesday. Opened up the box and have to say that the cost of shipping could have been less. The box was nearly 2 feet in length for an item whose box is in the 12" range. No biggie really since it was well packed with poly bubble bags from end to end, but for the cost from L.A. to Washington they coulda kept the shipping down by offering Flat Rate shipping in a smaller box and I would've got it in 2-3 days instead of a week. Bad form on Harbor Freight's part but meh, with the 20% off code shipping was nothing. So I guess I've a bit of a complainer streak in me.







lol

Okay now my review of sorts of the product.

Reasonably sturdy construction. The base though seems to have some wear for an unused item. So maybe I got one of those "use and return" units. Dunno. Just know that all points of wear are at the mounting points where one would use washers and bolts and seem to be consistent with that. A brand new unused item should have none of this. The safety brake is fine however. Just push the button and the saw moves freely on its axis. There was zero damage to the housing of the saw and has a rubber coating feel which is nice. The blade is straight and I have yet to use it, so won't know(until it sees use) for sure.

Okay, now one thing I have not seen anyone touch on...

Depth of cut. For people who use this for smaller diameter tubing, you're going to get a good clean cut. As someone said earlier... *LIKE BUTTA*









So for me and future builds where I am cutting 3/8" pipe straight through the first shot. But on 5/8" tubing you're only going to get through 2/3 of the tube before the saw bottoming out on the tube. I'm sure that with some modification I could possibly remedy this in short order with my Dremel. Won't know til I get a better look under the housing where it bulges. It could be that I won't be able to modify the housing to sit with a slight gap around the tubing. I know it doesn't seem like that big a deal, but if you have a tight angle to work around this can be quite irritating. Because while you can simply rotate the tubing to complete the cut, if you have a tight angle it's not possible. No way no how, because your bend will act as a brake. Rotate up and you run into the bottom of the saw. Rotate down and you bottom out on the base of it. I'm thinking the workaround is start your cut at the highest point of the angle, then adjust the tubing to the lowest point and attempt to finish the cut. Won't know until I get a multi directional plane tube on this. But this is kind of a niggly point with my mechanical brain. It's a limitation of sorts and maybe I am overthinking this but thought y'all would like to know. I'm just glad I don't have 3/4" tubing. Although not much larger than 5/8" I know.









Soon as I can get ahold of my phone and a reasonable workspace I will cobble together a proper Video Review. Til then this is my initial impression of the DrillMaster 120v 2" BenchTop cuttof saw. Item #62136.










~Ceadder


----------



## futiless

Ok how come ekwb doesn't specify to chamfer the inside diameter and the outer or just the outer. To me arms like just the outer diameter needs a chamfer am I right. Which is preferred?please help anyone asap


----------



## Castaile

@futiless chamfer inner and outer diameter. I chamfer off approx 0.5mm for my EK hdc fittings


----------



## Castaile

Double post


----------



## MedRed

How do you go about bending a really long piece of tubing? Do they make silicone cords that would fit a 36" piece of tubing with multiple bends?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> How do you go about bending a really long piece of tubing? Do they make silicone cords that would fit a 36" piece of tubing with multiple bends?


You can get cord from PPCs' in various lengths.

~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Hello

To properly cut the acrylic tubes, it's better to use this or that ?

 

And to make beautiful bend (short distance, such as the CPU => MOS), it is better to use this or that ?

 

I tried with the "Monsoon" and it's pretty hard to make beautiful bend on a small distance (curve in U)

Thanks for your help


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> To properly cut the acrylic tubes, it's better to use this or that ?
> 
> 
> 
> And to make beautiful bend (short distance, such as the CPU => MOS), it is better to use this or that ?
> 
> 
> 
> I tried with the "Monsoon" and it's pretty hard to make beautiful bend on a small distance (curve in U)
> 
> Thanks for your help


Depending on the thickness of the tube, I suggest the power mini miter saw. If it's 3/8" or 12mm OD then it will work well. It can still work well for 5/8" or 16mm but the saw needs some minor modding to get a clean through cut otherwise it can still be cut by slightly rotating the tube in the vice that is mounted to the table.

My Uncle passed away last week and I inherited a nifty little gadget. It's a Stanley Small tubing clamp that is able to be clamped to my table. So I can mount that to the Right side of my saw and make all my cuts without issue. The deck height is adjustable as well as the size of the tubing to be held in place.









I tried to find a picture of the clamp online and Google had nothing so I will post a couple pics when I can get hold of my Phone. The wife has it.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Thank you for your answer, it is for the 12/16
I'll stick with the saw, if it is "better"

And for the tools to bend, it's better Bitspower or Monsoon ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Thank you for your answer, it is for the 12/16
> I'll stick with the saw, if it is "better"
> 
> And for the tools to bend, it's better Bitspower or Monsoon ?


Monsoon by far. The routing rules take a lot of the guesswork out of measuring your tubing runs. On top of that the Mandrels are Quality. So long as you have a tclean work surface(some Benders free hand with them) and approximately a 2'^2 piece of Particle Board. You can screw down the mandrels to mark out your runs on. The Monsoon kit really takes a lot of the pain out of bending even for the newbies of the hobby. I really liked it when I first got my hands on the Pro Kit, I've found a couple things that I could've done without, but for the most part every piece is worth picking up even if you only used a piece of it once.









I plan to get the 3/8" mandrel kit here in the future to complete my kit, but it's not a necessity til I start putting family builds under water. That's when that kit is being picked up for sure.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Monsoon by far. The routing rules take a lot of the guesswork out of measuring your tubing runs. On top of that the Mandrels are Quality. So long as you have a tclean work surface(some Benders free hand with them) and approximately a 2'^2 piece of Particle Board. You can screw down the mandrels to mark out your runs on. The Monsoon kit really takes a lot of the pain out of bending even for the newbies of the hobby. I really liked it when I first got my hands on the Pro Kit, I've found a couple things that I could've done without, but for the most part every piece is worth picking up even if you only used a piece of it once.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to get the 3/8" mandrel kit here in the future to complete my kit, but it's not a necessity til I start putting family builds under water. That's when that kit is being picked up for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks









In fact, I used the Monsoon kit for my tubing, but for make the bends (CPU => MOS) it was a little more difficult (relatively short distance between the two bends)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Monsoon by far. The routing rules take a lot of the guesswork out of measuring your tubing runs. On top of that the Mandrels are Quality. So long as you have a tclean work surface(some Benders free hand with them) and approximately a 2'^2 piece of Particle Board. You can screw down the mandrels to mark out your runs on. The Monsoon kit really takes a lot of the pain out of bending even for the newbies of the hobby. I really liked it when I first got my hands on the Pro Kit, I've found a couple things that I could've done without, but for the most part every piece is worth picking up even if you only used a piece of it once.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plan to get the 3/8" mandrel kit here in the future to complete my kit, but it's not a necessity til I start putting family builds under water. That's when that kit is being picked up for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact, I used the Monsoon kit for my tubing, but for make the bends (CPU => MOS) it was a little more difficult (relatively short distance between the two bends)
Click to expand...

Do you know what the distance was?

I had to make this small distance...





And essentially Freehanded the measurement using the 90* Mandrel

I lined up the fitting side with the U of the mandrel with a tube prebent 90* then marked the tube where the mandrel was to start and then bent the other half with the Mandrel mounted to my surface. I will shorten it some more so that it will get closer to the MB and CPU blocks cause it stands pretty tall but not too bad I think. I may also change it for something more of a U shape the way it looked when I had Flex tubing in that area.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Same for me I think.



You do not have a picture of how you were doing?
I remember that I could not put 2 mandrel side by side (too short to make the bend)


----------



## Castaile

Want to give a little input in regards to using the 13mm monsoon kit with EK's 12mm hard tubes:


the monsoon silicone tube is a loose fit for EK's tube
the saw doesn't cut that well (gets stuck from time to time)

I purchased EK's DIY kit and the 12mm silicone tube is a MUCH better fit than the monsoon's, I even found the saw cut much smoothly and straighter(wasn't even using the miter box).

The mandrels are still nonetheless very handy to use, so just purchase the mandrels with the rulers IF possible.


----------



## Ceadderman

That's because EK is *metric* and Monsoon Hardliners is all SAE. So no their 3/8" insert will slide right through EK's hardline. But with a 12mm insert you can use ther mandrels w/o issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Does this tool is useful ?



I wonder if I can "cut" a small length and chamfering at the same time
Or if it only serves to chamfer


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Does this tool is useful ?
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if I can "cut" a small length and chamfering at the same time
> Or if it only serves to chamfer


i have the primochill version of that. I use it to trim a few mm off tube when needed and also chamfer it. Its actually made me very lazy when it comes to getting precise measurements. Quite nice to be able to trim stuff to size in a few seconds.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> i have the primochill version of that. I use it to trim a few mm off tube when needed and also chamfer it. Its actually made me very lazy when it comes to getting precise measurements. Quite nice to be able to trim stuff to size in a few seconds.


You make how to cut to the desired length ?
A mark on the tube ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Does this tool is useful ?
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if I can "cut" a small length and chamfering at the same time
> Or if it only serves to chamfer
> 
> 
> 
> i have the primochill version of that. I use it to trim a few mm off tube when needed and also chamfer it. Its actually made me very lazy when it comes to getting precise measurements. Quite nice to be able to trim stuff to size in a few seconds.
Click to expand...

Is that only 3/8"(12mm) tubing or is it 5/8" (16mm) as well?

You have a link to that PrimoChill model?

~Ceadder


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is that only 3/8"(12mm) tubing or is it 5/8" (16mm) as well?
> 
> You have a link to that PrimoChill model?
> 
> ~Ceadder


the primochill one is for 3/8 / 12mm od only

http://www.performance-pcs.com/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit.html

I would like to mention something about it. I found that the outer lip the bit puts on the tube wasn't quite enough sometimes. It became an issue when i was having to use a bit of force to get a short section of tube into a tight space. Ended up giving a quick turn or two with a hand held reamer to avoid damaging o-rings.


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> You make how to cut to the desired length ?
> A mark on the tube ?


i cut it with a small table saw and leave a few mm longer than i think i'll need. Burned myself too many times cutting tube 2-3mm shorter than needed. I then use the drill bit to smooth out the tube edge and test fit. If i need a few mm taken off i then use the drill bit. I think i spend ~10 minutes bending, cutting, and fitting a section of tube now. So much easier and hassle free.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is that only 3/8"(12mm) tubing or is it 5/8" (16mm) as well?
> 
> You have a link to that PrimoChill model?
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the primochill one is for 3/8 / 12mm od only
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit.html
> 
> I would like to mention something about it. I found that the outer lip the bit puts on the tube wasn't quite enough sometimes. It became an issue when i was having to use a bit of force to get a short section of tube into a tight space. Ended up giving a quick turn or two with a hand held reamer to avoid damaging o-rings.
Click to expand...

+Rep for the answer. It's what I pretty much knew, but last time I checked was awhile back and things might've changed since PC started selling these.









Too bad they don't have them for 5/8" or if they do, someplace where I don't have to convert the $ to the volatile € and take it in the shorts in the process.









~Ceadder


----------



## GunfighterAK

Is this primochill tool fine to use with a metric 10/12mm acrylic?
Also, what is it called at a hardware store? Never came across one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> Is this primochill tool fine to use with a metric 10/12mm acrylic?
> Also, what is it called at a hardware store? Never came across one.


It's meant for 10/12mm tubing yes.









~Ceadder


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Edge0fsanity*
> 
> i cut it with a small table saw and leave a few mm longer than i think i'll need. Burned myself too many times cutting tube 2-3mm shorter than needed. I then use the drill bit to smooth out the tube edge and test fit. If i need a few mm taken off i then use the drill bit. I think i spend ~10 minutes bending, cutting, and fitting a section of tube now. So much easier and hassle free.


Ok thanks so much


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's meant for 10/12mm tubing yes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks! Do you maybe know if this tool can be bought at a typical hardware store?


----------



## motor sw

Does anyone know if the Primochill drill bit is available in the EU? Sounds like a very useful piece of kit









http://www.primochill.com/product/primochill-rfb-rigid-tubing-finishing-bit/


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's meant for 10/12mm tubing yes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! Do you maybe know if this tool can be bought at a typical hardware store?
Click to expand...

Not to my knowledge no.









But you can get one from PPCs. They carry the PrimoChill brand and should they not have it in stock will contact their supplier to see if they can get you squared away.

~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

First Bend Attempt ...

Any feedback? One thing I noted is that the insert did have some play in the tube. Everything is Monsoon (tube, bending kit, etc).






















*Edit*: The hard tube is 12.45mm external (sounds like 1/2" to me) and 9.5mm internal. The rubber tube ia a little hard to get a measure on but it (max) 8.2mm.


----------



## Castaile

I've been getting those flattened bends with the monsoon inserts as well. Getting the EK's own 12mm insert solved this (I'm using EK's hard tubes).

Previously pointed out by @Ceadderman, it's due to Ek's metric and Monsoon's SAE discrepancy.


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> First Bend Attempt ...
> 
> Any feedback? One thing I noted is that the insert did have some play in the tube. Everything is Monsoon (tube, bending kit, etc).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit*: The hard tube is 12.45mm external (sounds like 1/2" to me) and 9.5mm internal. The rubber tube ia a little hard to get a measure on but it (max) 8.2mm.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


From watching the video, it looks like you heated a bit too long, and as you were heating the tube after it was already bendable, you were actually pulling the ends which thinned the middle, and then when you put the tube to the mandrel, you sort of pulled it into position, which stretched it a little more.

Heat about a 4" section, as you were doing, but pause, just a moment, at each end of the heating area, and as soon as the tube will droop through the heated region from its own weight, take it to the mandrel, and ease it around without pulling.

A little experimentation and practice will get you a routine that gives consistently uniform bends.

D.


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks Darlene ... I will review my technique based on your feedback. Any issue with the silicon bending tube being such a loose fit?


----------



## IT Diva

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks Darlene ... I will review my technique based on your feedback. Any issue with the silicon bending tube being such a loose fit?


I doubt that's a significant portion of the problem, remember that once you get the bend complete, the insert gets harder to pull out, and if it's a snug fit to start, it's almost impossible to get out, even if you immerse the tube in water for total lubrication as you pull the insert with a continuous twisting motion.

The abrupt change in appearance of the tube at 1 point, indicates a very rapid transition from very warm and malleable to cool and rigid.

Each end of your heated zone didn't seem to be heated enough to "flow" into the main part of the bend, hence my suggestion to pause a moment at each end of your lateral movement while heating, while not heating longer than you have to, so that you avoid any "thinning" in the middle of the heated zone.


----------



## ruffhi

I did some more bending today ... #2 was worse that last night, #3 was poor ... but I was happy with #4.


----------



## FuzzDad

Another thing to make your tubes easier to bend w/o issues...I placed my jigs on a 2x3 foot board, outlined them w/marker...removed the jigs and used a router to dig out a 1/16 deep slot for each of them. That eliminated the edge on the jig that sometimes causes problems when bending.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I did some more bending today ... #2 was worse that last night, #3 was poor ... but I was happy with #4.


This bend looks like it used an insert that is too small for the ID, thus crushing at the inside of the bend. I had that issue when I first started, find yourself a really good insert that fits really snug, bends will come out clean.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx FXFormat. I now own 3 inner tubes. The first one (that was used for the above bends) looks like this ...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















... I haven't tested #2 or #3 yet.


----------



## FXformat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx FXFormat. I now own 3 inner tubes. The first one (that was used for the above bends) looks like this ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... I haven't tested #2 or #3 yet.


That is wayyyyyy too small, will not retain shape, i had that problem too..you need to get one that is snug, tight, to the point where you have to lube it up and force it in


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FXformat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I did some more bending today ... #2 was worse that last night, #3 was poor ... but I was happy with #4.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This bend looks like it used an insert that is too small for the ID, thus crushing at the inside of the bend. I had that issue when I first started, find yourself a really good insert that fits really snug, bends will come out clean.
Click to expand...

Whole heartedly agree. With one addition, if you use Monsoon tubing and fittings stick with Monsoon inserts. They fit Monsoon tubing perfectly right out of the box. Don't try to cheap out on their bending kits going with PrimoChill or one of the other products. It will only muck something up in the bending process and you'll never be satisfied with you work as a result.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Whole heartedly agree. With one addition, if you use Monsoon tubing and fittings stick with Monsoon inserts. They fit Monsoon tubing perfectly right out of the box. Don't try to cheap out on their bending kits going with PrimoChill or one of the other products. It will only muck something up in the bending process and you'll never be satisfied with you work as a result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ceadder ... excellent comment ... but ... one thing I mentioned right up top was ... _Everything is Monsoon (tube, bending kit, etc)_ ... so this pic ...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















... is monsoon inner tube, monsoon tube and the other bending stuff is all monsoon (with the exception of the gloves ... I used my fluro work gloves).

I measured the red tube (1/2 OD x 3/8 ID) (spoiler picture above) with my calipers and it was ...
OD ... 12.45mm (12.7mm is 1/2" but 0.25mm seems to be within my measurement tolerance
ID ... 9.5mm (3/8" is 9.52mm)

I emailed Joe at modmymods about ...


Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert 30cm for ID 3/8" / 10mm HardTube - Blue (29119)

Barrow 10mm Silicon Bending Cord - For 10mm ID HardTube - 1M Length (10MM)
... and he said ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe from ModMyMods*
> I measure both with a digital caliper.
> 
> The barrow is about 9.5mm and the Alphacool is about 9.75mm


I now have both of these downstairs. I will pull them out over the weekend and see how those fit.

*Edit*: Just popped downstairs and tried both of the new ones in a bit of monsoon tubing ... they are both 1m long, look to be the same diameter (naked eye), markedly bigger than the monsoon tube ... and very snug fit. I will need some lubrication to insert them into the tube.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you're bending 5/8" Monsoon Hardline you need their Red cord. If you're bending their 1/2" hardline you need their Blue cord.

I suggest getting their red since it's obvious from the pic that you're using their Blue cord.









Post that pic in the Monsoon thread and @BoxGods will get you sorted out.









~Ceadder


----------



## nden

Hi guys

Has anyone here used this "Dremel Moto-Saw" for cutting 16mm tubing? If so, how did the cut turning out? Let me know please. Thanks


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you're bending 5/8" Monsoon Hardline you need their Red cord. If you're bending their 1/2" hardline you need their Blue cord.


I am bending their 1/2" OD 3/8" ID stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> Post that pic in the Monsoon thread and @BoxGods will get you sorted out.


I did ... his response in spoiler ...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The silicone bending rod should not be a tight fit and it is better if it isn't. If you have to sand on the silicone or oil it to get it in and out of the tube that leads to a lot of other issues. The example pictured in the green tube looks like it was not heated in a wide enough area along the tube, or the heated area was not centered on the bend. The silicone insert is soft--even if it was a tight fit incorrect temperature, uneven heating, incorrect location of heat application, incorrect bend speed, too mich pressure (pressing the tube into the mandrel too hard) etc. will cause issues because the insert can be easily deformed.
> 
> Bending tube is as much about feel and "hand skill" as anything else so there really isn't a substitute for practice. Get a few extra sticks of tube to practice on. Cut it into shorter pieces so it is easier to work with and see what is going on. Don't just keep doing the same things (heat time and area, bend speed, pressure, etc.) and expect a different / better result.
> 
> The reason I mention feel and hand skills is that there is no one EXACT formula. Like xx heat over xx area bent at xx speed with xx pressure. Some guys will prefer the tube slightly hotter and will bend a little faster with less pressure. Others might be more comfortable with less heat, slower bend speed, and more pressure. I have bent a fair amount of tube but I still do a few practice bends if I have not bent any tube in a month or two, or if I am using a new color or tube size or switching from acrylic to PETG etc.
> 
> Some common issues I see with new benders. Improperly prepared work area. Have everything set up and the area cleared of any obstacles--do a "cold" rehearsal of the actions you will take for the bend cycle to make sure everything is in place and there are no obstructions. Make sure you are applying the heat fairly close to where you will actually be bending and once you make the move from heat to mandrel don't dilly dick around. Being unsure where to heat is the number one cause of applying the heat to the wrong location on the tube. use a pencil (not a marker) and mark the center and each end of your bend. Be consistent with your marking habits so you can practice where you will heat in relation to your marks. Excessive force. Try to push and pull and press with as little pressure as will work. Almost everyone under heats the tube their first few practice bends and "cold" tube requires a lot more force. After they get the tube hot enough the inclination is to apply as much force as they did previously on the cold bends


----------



## MedRed

what's the best cutter for acrylic tubing? I tried my copper tubing pipe cutter and it caused cracking. Tried XSPC scissor type cutter and that also caused cracking.


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MedRed*
> 
> what's the best cutter for acrylic tubing? I tried my copper tubing pipe cutter and it caused cracking. Tried XSPC scissor type cutter and that also caused cracking.


I use a hacksaw, Works everytime.

TCO


----------



## baalbelphegor

Can someone please help me figure out if these fittings and tubing are compatible? The guy I spoke with at performance pcs did not know.

Alphacool HT 13mm Compression Fitting
http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/alphacool-ht-13mm-compression-fitting-g1-4-for-plexi-brass-tubes-knurled-deep-black.html

PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid PETG Tubing
http://www.performance-pcs.com/rigid-hard-tubing/primochill-1-2in-rigid-petg-tubing-36in-clear-12-pack.html

I was able to get the fitting on, although it was a bit tight (I didn't hulk out putting it on, but it didn't slide on either). Once it was on, I tightened the collar and it seemed solid. I was able to pull it off the tube though. Is this normal? The guy at PPC's said I should use glue and I hadn't heard of that before. I've looked up some videos but haven't found an answer yet.

I appreciate anyone taking the time to help me out with this.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> Can someone please help me figure out if these fittings and tubing are compatible? The guy I spoke with at performance pcs did not know.
> 
> Alphacool HT 13mm Compression Fitting
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/fittings-connectors/alphacool-ht-13mm-compression-fitting-g1-4-for-plexi-brass-tubes-knurled-deep-black.html
> 
> PrimoChill 1/2in Rigid PETG Tubing
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/rigid-hard-tubing/primochill-1-2in-rigid-petg-tubing-36in-clear-12-pack.html
> 
> I was able to get the fitting on, although it was a bit tight (I didn't hulk out putting it on, but it didn't slide on either). Once it was on, I tightened the collar and it seemed solid. I was able to pull it off the tube though. Is this normal? The guy at PPC's said I should use glue and I hadn't heard of that before. I've looked up some videos but haven't found an answer yet.
> 
> I appreciate anyone taking the time to help me out with this.


PLEASE ignore the advice to glue in the tube, it is so wrong that I can not believe it was given









While it is generally not advised to mix metric and imperial, the Alphacool HT 13mm fittings and Primochill 1/2" PETG tubing are actually reasonably compatible with each other.
The photo below has this exact combo being held under pressure.
It was able to hold 10 PSI, BUT could not hold 15 PSI.

I consider 10 PSI to be a good holding pressure which this fitting/tube combo was able to achieve.
FYI: 5 PSI is my _barely_ acceptable level, while 15 PSI or above I consider excellent.


----------



## baalbelphegor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> PLEASE ignore the advice to glue in the tube, it is so wrong that I can not believe it was given
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While it is generally not advised to mix metric and imperial, the Alphacool HT 13mm fittings and Primochill 1/2" PETG tubing are actually reasonably compatible with each other.
> The photo below has this exact combo being held under pressure.
> It was able to hold 10 PSI, BUT could not hold 15 PSI.
> 
> I consider 10 PSI to be a good holding pressure which this fitting/tube combo was able to achieve.
> FYI: 5 PSI is my _barely_ acceptable level, while 15 PSI or above I consider excellent.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Picture


Thanks for the advice fast_fate, I ended up buying some PETG tubing from Alphacool just to be safe.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> PLEASE ignore the advice to glue in the tube, it is so wrong that I can not believe it was given
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While it is generally not advised to mix metric and imperial, the Alphacool HT 13mm fittings and Primochill 1/2" PETG tubing are actually reasonably compatible with each other.
> The photo below has this exact combo being held under pressure.
> It was able to hold 10 PSI, BUT could not hold 15 PSI.
> 
> I consider 10 PSI to be a good holding pressure which this fitting/tube combo was able to achieve.
> FYI: 5 PSI is my _barely_ acceptable level, while 15 PSI or above I consider excellent.






Just wanted to say, love your reviews on xtremerigs!


----------



## tistou77

Hello

Does this tool works with Bitspower tube 12/16 ?



Thanks


----------



## JimmyBoarHunter

Wanted to share my build. Went for acrylic and UV, reasonably satisfied with the results







The bending process wasn't too hard, just time consuming. Used a home made jig from random gear from bunnings.

Still trying to sort out cathode placement and fan configurations but happy for any feedback.

Budget jig




Before clear UV dye


After UV dye


Whole system


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JimmyBoarHunter*
> 
> Wanted to share my build. Went for acrylic and UV, reasonably satisfied with the results
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bending process wasn't too hard, just time consuming. Used a home made jig from random gear from bunnings.
> 
> Still trying to sort out cathode placement and fan configurations but happy for any feedback.


Looks good. Can you give a bit more background re the black dots? What are they for? Do they rub off easily? What made them?

BTW Bunnings is large Australian home handiman store ... think Lowes or HomeDepot [US] or B&Q [UK].


----------



## JimmyBoarHunter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Looks good. Can you give a bit more background re the black dots? What are they for? Do they rub off easily? What made them?
> 
> BTW Bunnings is large Australian home handiman store ... think Lowes or HomeDepot [US] or B&Q [UK].


The black dots are permanent marker. I marked the centre point of the bend + the radius of the bend either side of centre. It helped me to know where I had to heat and when bending. Little metho and it wiped straight off after.


----------



## Iceman2733

Yea listen to the poster below you do not glue the tube to the fitting. The pulling the tube out of the fitting, that is normal remember the only thing holding the tube in place and not sliding out is an O-Ring. If I *TRY* (you have to put some force behind it) I can pull the tubes out of the fittings and that is with the Bitspower fittings and tubes. I am not there to say for certain but they are tight going in and once you have the compression collar tightened there should be NO play with the tube wanting to wiggle. But like I said if I try I can still pull it out of the fitting.


----------



## TheGreyWizard

I'm using Primochill 3/8x1/2 rigid tube - will the 3/8x1/2 monosoon pro bending kit work just fine, including the silicon insert?

Seems like a better over all bending kit and comes with everything

I only ask because there can be slight tolerance differences with the materials between companies and not work.


----------



## roamin

Can anyone tell me what causes this issue? Today i am getting this where the pipe expands whilst heating it. If i set my heat gun to 190c degree or 500c i get the tube doing this.



Yet 2 days ago i was getting none of that and bends like this



I should add that this is primochill 1/2" tubing that im using and there new sticks straight from the tube from primochill.


----------



## Ceadderman

Brand does not matter. Seems to be an issue in your process that you likely corrected. Either that or your cord is too narrow, allowing the tube to collapse in on itself.









~Ceadder


----------



## roamin

The is not collapsing its actually swelling. It get fatter as heat is applied to it. I did some bends 2 nights ago and never got this issue. 2 nights ago i was heating the tube at 300c and no issues.

Today im heating the tube at 190c so colder heat and it still swells. Heat it at 400c it swells heat it at 600c and it swells. No matter my temp range my acrylic swells and gets fatter with heat.

The cord im using is primochills cord and its firm to slide in. Not what i would call loose.

If i have no cord in the acrylic and heat the tube without cord. It still swells like that


----------



## GunfighterAK

Want to share my experience going with barrow compression fittings.

I changed from imperial primochill compression fittings to barrow metric system since in my country it is easier to source 12/10 acrylic tubes.
Going back to acrylic from PETG I realized how fragile it is as I had two tubes shatter while using the RFB drill bit to trim the lengths.
The barrow 10mm bending insert is significantly better than the primochill hollow insert as I had no kinking or flattening in the bends.
Barrow fittings finish looks really good.

The bad stuff, it is a pain inserting the acrylic tube into the barrow compression fittings as it has two O rings inside similar to bitspower. I tried using water and dish washing liquid to try and lubricate the fittings. Seems the o-ring rubber quality isn't great and recommend trying other brand o-ring replacements.




So, it seemed all straight and correct after the initial setup but later i noticed how skew the reservoir and gpu tube to 90 degree fitting.


----------



## Reggie10

Hi everyone,

This thread has been a wealth of information and I wanted to thank everyone for sharing their insight and experience. I try to always figure things out for myself, but I'm kind of stuck on something and could really use some advice from people who know their stuff.

I'm a relatively inexperienced builder, and was getting myself psyched to start my first liquid cooled build. I'd planned on keeping things simple with some soft tubing, but became excited at the idea of using acrylic upon watching the Monsoon videos showing off their bending toolkit. That stuff is cool as hell, and looks like it'd be fun to work with.

Problem is, I really like the Bitspower fittings and was disappointed to see that the tubing they're made for is incompatible with the Monsoon toolkit. So I guess my question(s) is this:

- Is there a toolkit of equivalent quality for the 12mm tubing used by Bitspower? Closest thing I could find have been these sort of cheap looking mandrels: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/budget-mandrel-kit-3pcs-for-hard-tube-od-12mm/

or

- Can I just go ahead and use the 12.7mm Monsoon toolkit with the 12mm Bitspower tubing without running into any problems? I know I'd have to find an appropriate silicon rod, but should the mandrels and miter box still work?

Or should I just suck it up and buy the Monsoon toolkit and use Monsoon tubing and fittings? What do you guys think?

Thanks so much for your help.

- Reggie


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reggie10*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> This thread has been a wealth of information and I wanted to thank everyone for sharing their insight and experience. I try to always figure things out for myself, but I'm kind of stuck on something and could really use some advice from people who know their stuff.
> 
> I'm a relatively inexperienced builder, and was getting myself psyched to start my first liquid cooled build. I'd planned on keeping things simple with some soft tubing, but became excited at the idea of using acrylic upon watching the Monsoon videos showing off their bending toolkit. That stuff is cool as hell, and looks like it'd be fun to work with.
> 
> Problem is, I really like the Bitspower fittings and was disappointed to see that the tubing they're made for is incompatible with the Monsoon toolkit. So I guess my question(s) is this:
> 
> - Is there a toolkit of equivalent quality for the 12mm tubing used by Bitspower? Closest thing I could find have been these sort of cheap looking mandrels: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/budget-mandrel-kit-3pcs-for-hard-tube-od-12mm/
> 
> or
> 
> - Can I just go ahead and use the 12.7mm Monsoon toolkit with the 12mm Bitspower tubing without running into any problems? I know I'd have to find an appropriate silicon rod, but should the mandrels and miter box still work?
> 
> Or should I just suck it up and buy the Monsoon toolkit and use Monsoon tubing and fittings? What do you guys think?
> 
> Thanks so much for your help.
> 
> - Reggie


Just use the Monsoon kit. It will work just fine with Metric tubing.









Although you may need to pick up a Metric insert so that it fits correctly. I'm not sure if the Monsoon insert will fit snugly or if it will fit at all.









~Ceadder


----------



## Reggie10

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thank you!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reggie10*
> 
> That's what I was hoping to hear. Thank you!


You're welcome. I have the 12mm/1/2" kit and for the most part it's very well suited for various tubing sizes.









just remembr that the measurement tools are for measuring center to center. So the mid line(screw and wingnut slots) is lined up in the middle of your fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reggie10*
> 
> Problem is, I really like the Bitspower fittings and was disappointed to see that the tubing they're made for is incompatible with the Monsoon toolkit. So I guess my question(s) is this:
> 
> - Is there a toolkit of equivalent quality for the 12mm tubing used by Bitspower? Closest thing I could find have been these sort of cheap looking mandrels: https://www.dazmode.com/store/product/budget-mandrel-kit-3pcs-for-hard-tube-od-12mm/
> 
> or
> 
> - Can I just go ahead and use the 12.7mm Monsoon toolkit with the 12mm Bitspower tubing without running into any problems? I know I'd have to find an appropriate silicon rod, but should the mandrels and miter box still work?
> 
> Or should I just suck it up and buy the Monsoon toolkit and use Monsoon tubing and fittings? What do you guys think?
> 
> Thanks so much for your help.
> 
> - Reggie


You shouldn't mix tubing from one brand with fittings from another, especially in this case, where Monsoon is imperial/sae and BP is metric. Nevertheless, you can use Monsoon's bending kit, which is fantastic, with BP's tubing, they will work together perfectly. The silicone rod fits, the mandrels hold the tube ok, and you will have a far easier time bending with the Monsoon kit than without. PPCS has a BP bending rod if that will let you sleep better, so you can always grab that along with the Monsoon kit.


----------



## Reggie10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> PPCS has a BP bending rod if that will let you sleep better, so you can always grab that along with the Monsoon kit.


Just did that very thing, and even splurged on the the carrying case


----------



## Sharangir

Is 16/12 Monsoon PETG overkill? (the 1/2" is out of stock)

I want solid white PETG hard tubes.. but I don't need that much.. Only 4 relatively short pieces.. (2 with 90° bends, 1 with two 90° bends (CPU - MoBo) and 1 rather complex one with two 90° bends)

And would you rather get the Monsoon fittings or the Alphacool fittings? (Since I only need 8, the price isn't much of an issue..)


----------



## MadHatter5045

@B NEGATIVE, what silicone grease do you recommend for use with tube/fitting o-rings? If anyone else has a silicone grease they recommend I'd much appreciate it.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadHatter5045*
> 
> @B NEGATIVE, what silicone grease do you recommend for use with tube/fitting o-rings? If anyone else has a silicone grease they recommend I'd much appreciate it.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1BX6PU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Sharangir

Could I use the "tap grease" we have in the chemistry lab?
It's super high quality silicone grease that we use to seal off various glass aparatures in the lab.


----------



## Ceadderman

Don't see why not.









~Ceadder


----------



## Sharangir

Okay, will try that then (when we took over the lab, we found tons of that stuff, even though there wasn't any hardware you could use it for..)

On my other question:
"would you rather get the Monsoon fittings or the Alphacool fittings?"


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharangir*
> 
> Okay, will try that then (when we took over the lab, we found tons of that stuff, even though there wasn't any hardware you could use it for..)
> 
> On my other question:
> "would you rather get the Monsoon fittings or the Alphacool fittings?"


The safest choice is the same brand as the tubing. Monsoon and Alphacool use two different measuring systems, so they're not compatible to each other.


----------



## Sharangir

Okay then.. the Monsoon look kinda weird, but I guess I'll have to trust them then


----------



## Ceadderman

Agreed. Stick with the fittings that are same brand of tubing. Alphacool will not work with Monsoon and vice versa.

It has to do with standards. AC is metric and all Monsoon are SAE. 12mm doesn't cross to 5/8 at all.









~Ceadder


----------



## X-Nine

I've used the metric tubing from PPC with the blue Monsoon kit without issue, which fit my Bits Power fittings just fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XNine*
> 
> I've used the metric tubing from PPC with the blue Monsoon kit without issue, which fit my Bits Power fittings just fine.


BitsPower is metric. So of course you could.









~Ceadder


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Ceadder ... excellent comment ... but ... one thing I mentioned right up top was ... _Everything is Monsoon (tube, bending kit, etc)_ ... so this pic ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... is monsoon inner tube, monsoon tube and the other bending stuff is all monsoon (with the exception of the gloves ... I used my fluro work gloves).
> 
> I measured the red tube (1/2 OD x 3/8 ID) (spoiler picture above) with my calipers and it was ...
> OD ... 12.45mm (12.7mm is 1/2" but 0.25mm seems to be within my measurement tolerance
> ID ... 9.5mm (3/8" is 9.52mm)
> 
> I emailed Joe at modmymods about ...
> 
> 
> Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert 30cm for ID 3/8" / 10mm HardTube - Blue (29119)
> 
> Barrow 10mm Silicon Bending Cord - For 10mm ID HardTube - 1M Length (10MM)
> ... and he said ...
> I now have both of these downstairs. I will pull them out over the weekend and see how those fit.
> 
> *Edit*: Just popped downstairs and tried both of the new ones in a bit of monsoon tubing ... they are both 1m long, look to be the same diameter (naked eye), markedly bigger than the monsoon tube ... and very snug fit. I will need some lubrication to insert them into the tube.


You should have bought the monsoon gloves!


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> Want to share my experience going with barrow compression fittings.
> 
> I changed from imperial primochill compression fittings to barrow metric system since in my country it is easier to source 12/10 acrylic tubes.
> Going back to acrylic from PETG I realized how fragile it is as I had two tubes shatter while using the RFB drill bit to trim the lengths.
> The barrow 10mm bending insert is significantly better than the primochill hollow insert as I had no kinking or flattening in the bends.
> Barrow fittings finish looks really good.
> 
> The bad stuff, it is a pain inserting the acrylic tube into the barrow compression fittings as it has two O rings inside similar to bitspower. I tried using water and dish washing liquid to try and lubricate the fittings. Seems the o-ring rubber quality isn't great and recommend trying other brand o-ring replacements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, it seemed all straight and correct after the initial setup but later i noticed how skew the reservoir and gpu tube to 90 degree fitting.


Yes, loose the 90 degree fitting and do a bend there.







Use the 90 fitting to turn toward the pump.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Ceadder ... excellent comment ... but ... one thing I mentioned right up top was ... _Everything is Monsoon (tube, bending kit, etc)_ ... so this pic ...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... is monsoon inner tube, monsoon tube and the other bending stuff is all monsoon (with the exception of the gloves ... I used my fluro work gloves).
> 
> I measured the red tube (1/2 OD x 3/8 ID) (spoiler picture above) with my calipers and it was ...
> OD ... 12.45mm (12.7mm is 1/2" but 0.25mm seems to be within my measurement tolerance
> ID ... 9.5mm (3/8" is 9.52mm)
> 
> I emailed Joe at modmymods about ...
> 
> 
> Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert 30cm for ID 3/8" / 10mm HardTube - Blue (29119)
> 
> Barrow 10mm Silicon Bending Cord - For 10mm ID HardTube - 1M Length (10MM)
> ... and he said ...
> I now have both of these downstairs. I will pull them out over the weekend and see how those fit.
> 
> *Edit*: Just popped downstairs and tried both of the new ones in a bit of monsoon tubing ... they are both 1m long, look to be the same diameter (naked eye), markedly bigger than the monsoon tube ... and very snug fit. I will need some lubrication to insert them into the tube.
> 
> 
> 
> You should have bought the monsoon gloves!
Click to expand...

I have 8 pairs I'm not using. If smooth talked may part with some or all.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Thx but I have enough globes to see me through.

I ransacked PPCs for bending cords and have a box being delivered today that contains 4 from different sources. This will bring the total to 7 bending cords. I'll be back later today with a complete round up of what I found.


----------



## charliebrown

grainger have some that fits perfect


----------



## ruffhi

*Bending cord update ...*

This are the ones I have now ...

Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert

Barrow 10mm Silicon Bending Cord

PrimoChill 3/8in OD Rigid Tube Silicone Bending Insert Solid Cord

XSPC PETG Bending Rubber

Bitspower Silicon Bending Cord

EK Silicon Bending Cord

Monsoon 3/8" ID BLUE Silicon Bending Insert

All of this extra silicon to find one that fits the Monsoon Hardline Tube 3/8 x 1/2 that I want to bend.

The tubing has an internal diameter of about 9.4mm which is 0.370 inches. 3/8 is 0.375. Lets see what type of OD the tubing has ...

Alphacool Silicon Bending Insert ... 9.6mm

Barrow 10mm Silicon Bending Cord ... 9.7mm

PrimoChill 3/8in OD Rigid Tube Silicone Bending Insert Solid Cord ... 9.2mm

XSPC PETG Bending Rubber ... 9.9mm

Bitspower Silicon Bending Cord ... 9.5mm

EK Silicon Bending Cord ... 9.5mm

Monsoon 3/8" ID BLUE Silicon Bending Insert ... 7.9mm

The Monsoon is dead easy to insert. However, if let go, it will fall through the hardline tubing. The PromChill can be inserted after greasing it up ... it only took me about 3 hrs of 'work' to get it to a place where I think it is usable. I'll do some bends with it on the weekend and show you the results. The others (all reporting as 10mm tubes) are too big. No surprise that the ones that say they are for 3/8" fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *charliebrown*
> 
> grainger have some that fits perfect


I have a Grainger store in my town ... do you have a link for their bending silicon?


----------



## Sharangir

Shouldn't the monsoon be the best fit?

I'm really scared of the complex bends..
Have one where I need to do 2 90deg bends but at a 90deg angle (ergo right, then up) and another one where I must go right, then down, then up.. lol..


----------



## ruffhi

I would stick with Monsoon but ...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















... I am trying to get a better fit than the above.


----------



## Sharangir

Hmm.. well, does it matter that much? If it expands it will do so anyways.. and a compression by .1mm won't be noticeable, will it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah actually.

Rufhi get the red bendin cord and see how it fits. That blue one simply will not do and the Red one is larger for sure. If you're bending 1/2" Monsoon it's been long enough to avoid an offscale size I would get another Blue. If it's 5/8" Monsoon then Red is what you were supposed to have in the first place.









~Ceadder


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sharangir*
> 
> Shouldn't the monsoon be the best fit?
> 
> I'm really scared of the complex bends..
> Have one where I need to do 2 90deg bends but at a 90deg angle (ergo right, then up) and another one where I must go right, then down, then up.. lol..


Here's a bend I made in some Primochill tubing with Primochill insert










It's the tube running behind the optical drive down to the front radiator.


----------



## ruffhi

I posted this in my build log and in the water cooler thread and got minimal (read 'zero') responses. Maybe I should have posted it here.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Friends ... I need your input. I am working on my hard-line to and from my CPU cooler. I have two anchor points that are pretty close together ... one attached to the front of the case and the other attached to the reservoir.
> 
> By a fluke, they are at pretty much the same height and offset by about 25mm. The near bat straw is bring liquid to the CPU block while the other will be taking liquid from the block to the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the motherboard tray that illustrates were the block will be. It is offset down and to the right of the hardline coming from the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some (resurrected) sketchup pics showing the same from various angles. I can insert the block with the ports front and back (as shown) or the other orientation (left / right).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where it gets fun ... how do I bring those hardline tubes down to the block? They could start a gentle curve to the right and then plunge down in unison to the block ... one could kink up (or down) and then cascade down, one over the other, into the block ... or ... any other suggestions?






Anyway ... I am leaning towards a nice right hand turn from the two tubes and then a 'dive' down to the CPU block. I have some monsoon bending mandrels that help me get the bends uniform. However, this will create a problem with this bend situation.

Here is what it will look like if I use the mandrels for both bends ...



The arc of the curves is a the same as they will both represent the similar part of a circle with the same radius. But the bends look horrible. I need a bend where the arc is from two circles that share the same center ...



So ... any suggestions on how I get the outside bend looking nice and 'parallel' to the inside bend?


----------



## MadMabb

The radius on the outer tube is actually longer, making its arc length longer (same angle though); if it were me i'd bend the inner tube, leave it in the mandrel and then bend the outer tube using the inner... hope you get the picture there... otherwise you might need to find a can or other object that has the radius you need, or... freehand it!


----------



## Sharangir

I would go with cans too


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I posted this in my build log and in the water cooler thread and got minimal (read 'zero') responses. Maybe I should have posted it here.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Friends ... I need your input. I am working on my hard-line to and from my CPU cooler. I have two anchor points that are pretty close together ... one attached to the front of the case and the other attached to the reservoir.
> 
> By a fluke, they are at pretty much the same height and offset by about 25mm. The near bat straw is bring liquid to the CPU block while the other will be taking liquid from the block to the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the motherboard tray that illustrates were the block will be. It is offset down and to the right of the hardline coming from the front.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some (resurrected) sketchup pics showing the same from various angles. I can insert the block with the ports front and back (as shown) or the other orientation (left / right).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is where it gets fun ... how do I bring those hardline tubes down to the block? They could start a gentle curve to the right and then plunge down in unison to the block ... one could kink up (or down) and then cascade down, one over the other, into the block ... or ... any other suggestions?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway ... I am leaning towards a nice right hand turn from the two tubes and then a 'dive' down to the CPU block. I have some monsoon bending mandrels that help me get the bends uniform. However, this will create a problem with this bend situation.
> 
> Here is what it will look like if I use the mandrels for both bends ...
> 
> 
> 
> The arc of the curves is a the same as they will both represent the similar part of a circle with the same radius. But the bends look horrible. I need a bend where the arc is from two circles that share the same center ...
> 
> 
> 
> So ... any suggestions on how I get the outside bend looking nice and 'parallel' to the inside bend?
Click to expand...

Cut a piece of MDF(Particle Board works too) and give it that same curf. You should see a marked improvement.









~Ceadder


----------



## Leonko

Guys i would like to ask you for your professional advice.









im new to bending so i would like to ask,... lets say i make one 90 degree bend (on the bottom) and I want to make second, but i want to be vertical tube to be completely straight. Where exactly should I mark the bend on tube ? if I mark too high or low, bend is ruined. I hope you understand







i will use 16 mm PETG bitspower tubes

thank you for your help !


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> Guys i would like to ask you for your professional advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im new to bending so i would like to ask,... lets say i make one 90 degree bend (on the bottom) and I want to make second, but i want to be vertical tube to be completely straight. Where exactly should I mark the bend on tube ? if I mark too high or low, bend is ruined. I hope you understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i will use 16 mm PETG bitspower tubes
> 
> thank you for your help !


bump?


----------



## cram501

In most cases like this, I cheat and use a 90 degree fitting because it is easier when you have multiple bends. If you don't want to use a fitting, you should measure from the center of the pipe. It is really easy to get it wrong and some fittings are more forgiving than others.

Monsoon has put up a multi-part tutorial on how to measure multiple bends using their kit on Youtube (search for "Hardline Tools Mandrels and Measure"). Be prepared for a few Frankenstein creations and confusion on how it happened until you get the hang of it.


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> In most cases like this, I cheat and use a 90 degree fitting because it is easier when you have multiple bends. If you don't want to use a fitting, you should measure from the center of the pipe. It is really easy to get it wrong and some fittings are more forgiving than others.
> 
> Monsoon has put up a multi-part tutorial on how to measure multiple bends using their kit on Youtube (search for "Hardline Tools Mandrels and Measure"). Be prepared for a few Frankenstein creations and confusion on how it happened until you get the hang of it.
























yeah i expect few weird bends







im familliar that some builders prefer 90 degree before doing 2nd bend, but i dont like it this way







thank you for your help, im going to look at videos


----------



## Biggu

So im getting ready to start building my Caselabs S3 and im going to do hard line again Ive got a bunch of ek 10/12mm fittings from a previous build so im planning to use those fittings.

Has any one had experience using the e22 12mm tube with the ek fittings? I am also am wanting to use the bending mandrels but it looks like I can only get the 13mm. Will the bends look fine with the 13mm mandrels or should I keep trying to get 12mm mandrels? In the past Ive just free handed it and it always seems to look fine but I want to make it look much nicer this time around.


----------



## Mr_Armageddon

Just wanted to thank those that contributed helpful information on this thread. This was my first time messing with hardline bends, and the info and experiences found here were very helpful.

Used Monsoon Hardline PETG Tubing 1/2" ID, 5/8" OD. Had a few mess-ups that I tossed, but overall very pleased with the end result of this Open Air build.





Open Air systems look great, but the exposed tubing bends might making transportation very difficult. Good thing I don't attend many LAN parties anymore!



Check out my build log for more Pics and Info how I made this one.

Project Open Core: Liquid P5, Hardline Tubing, Illuminated System Panel, VR Ready


----------



## Leonko

guys what is the best silicon bending inserter tool for PETG 16/12 tube ? I know that bitspower have one http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=172_238_297&products_id=4029
... but with outer diameter of 11mm. Is it good for tubes with 12mm inner diameter or not? or do you know about another better inserter? please advice








thank you


----------



## baalbelphegor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leonko*
> 
> guys what is the best silicon bending inserter tool for PETG 16/12 tube ? I know that bitspower have one http://www.bitspower.com.tw/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=172_238_297&products_id=4029
> ... but with outer diameter of 11mm. Is it good for tubes with 12mm inner diameter or not? or do you know about another better inserter? please advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thank you


I know this is a week late, but in my (limited) experience I would suggest using an insert that is from the same company as the tubing you're using. It took me approximately 12 hours to bend a few tubes with the wrong insert (company sizes vary slightly) using soapy water, freezing the insert, and personal lubricant. It took one hour to do the same with the correct sized insert using only soapy water.


----------



## Leonko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baalbelphegor*
> 
> I know this is a week late, but in my (limited) experience I would suggest using an insert that is from the same company as the tubing you're using. It took me approximately 12 hours to bend a few tubes with the wrong insert (company sizes vary slightly) using soapy water, freezing the insert, and personal lubricant. It took one hour to do the same with the correct sized insert using only soapy water.


thank you for answer







bitspower inserter is still in my cart, with 16mm PETG bitspower tubes, so i leave it as it is







i just wondered if there is something better to recommend


----------



## LePhuronn

SO much thread, but it's all good stuff.

Question: for those of you using 12mm OD acrylic, what is the smallest bend radius you've achieved, and what type of insert did you use?

I have some crazy tight stuff to do and my solid nitrile cord doesn't flex tightly enough without a little effort, and that effort is enough to flatten and kink the inside bend of the tube.


----------



## emsj86

any good recommendations for 12mm acrylic tubing for bitspower 12mm fittings?


----------



## Edge0fsanity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> any good recommendations for 12mm acrylic tubing for bitspower 12mm fittings?


i use bitspower 12mm od acrylic tubing with their 12mm fittings. No complaints, never had a fitment issue or any flaws in the tube. I've gone through a lot of their tube in my build.


----------



## Yukss

great post. i was having hard time with my bends


----------



## TheGreyWizard

I'm kind of getting the hang of doing 90* bends, but I'm not sure if I'm 100% right - are the bends supposed to end up with a flat-ish corner vs perfectly round? Here are my first couple of runs, the first one on top looks like it bubbled out/warped from too much heat?

And the second piece looks better, but has a flat exterior curve.

For the record I am using the silicon tube supplied with the Moonsoon Pro Kit.

The real problem with this particular bend is that the first 90* is only 17mm high, and that includes whats recessed into the compression fitting - it might JUST work, but it's going to be tricky


----------



## LePhuronn

I'm having similar issues because my current project requires insanely tight bends for practically every one (16mm bend radius on 12mm tube). I've found that putting sufficient pressure on the bend to get around the radius I need was flat-spotting the inside curve and/or puffing the sides out horizontally.

I've 3D printed a bending mandrel to help out so I can get some force into the bend and the mandrel helps maintain the circular shape of the tube, and then a clap thing to press on the opposite side of the tube to stop flaring as the tube cools. It's not perfect but is a lot better than what I had before.











Little bit more practice needed, and possibly some changes to the mandrel, but it's pretty good.

I've also found that, as per B Negative's original post, if you gently pull on the tube as you bend it it helps prevent flaring as you're slightly stretching the tube out.


----------



## Barefooter

^^ Nice work on the mandrels









Looks like they would work well.


----------



## LePhuronn

Cheers!

The downside so far is the PLA used in the print has roughly the same melting point as 1mm walled acrylic tube, so I can't actually heat the tube whilst it's in the mandrel. So I have to kinda rush the bend so it never turns out as well as the mandrel design would lead you to believe. I'd love to refine the design and then get a set made up in ABS, but my local makerspace isn't geared up for printing anything other than PLA, and I dread to think what a short run would be to get ti made up elsewhere.

But to be honest I have a 2nd project planned with will probably also require the same tight bend radius, so it might be worth the investment.


----------



## TheGreyWizard

I've decided to re-work the path my pipe takes and then flip my radiator 180*, which isn't my preference but this is just way too tight and complicated for this initial piece.

However, I am still having the flattening issue - something like the top part of the mandrel made out of aluminum would be awesome so you could heat it up too.

I'm also getting bubbling like it's melting if I leave it on an area and that totally ruins a piece - am I getting too hot or too close?

What is the ideal distance from the tube? I almost feel rushed that AS SOON as it starts to become pliable I have to make the bend IMMEDIATELY so I think I'm rushing myself and either getting too close to heat it up faster or I'm just on too high of a heat

Any suggestions?


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> I've decided to re-work the path my pipe takes and then flip my radiator 180*, which isn't my preference but this is just way too tight and complicated for this initial piece.
> 
> However, I am still having the flattening issue - something like the top part of the mandrel made out of aluminum would be awesome so you could heat it up too.
> 
> I'm also getting bubbling like it's melting if I leave it on an area and that totally ruins a piece - am I getting too hot or too close?
> 
> What is the ideal distance from the tube? I almost feel rushed that AS SOON as it starts to become pliable I have to make the bend IMMEDIATELY so I think I'm rushing myself and either getting too close to heat it up faster or I'm just on too high of a heat
> 
> Any suggestions?


Yes, you concentrating too much heat on one spot.

The flattening is happening because of the incorrect or faulty silicon insert. Are you using the primochil hollow insert?


----------



## Ashcroft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> I've decided to re-work the path my pipe takes and then flip my radiator 180*, which isn't my preference but this is just way too tight and complicated for this initial piece.
> 
> However, I am still having the flattening issue - something like the top part of the mandrel made out of aluminum would be awesome so you could heat it up too.
> 
> I'm also getting bubbling like it's melting if I leave it on an area and that totally ruins a piece - am I getting too hot or too close?
> 
> What is the ideal distance from the tube? I almost feel rushed that AS SOON as it starts to become pliable I have to make the bend IMMEDIATELY so I think I'm rushing myself and either getting too close to heat it up faster or I'm just on too high of a heat
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The ideal distance will vary with the gun but for all of them its quite a ways. Its always better to be too far and take a little longer than to have to keep starting again. I think I normally keep it between 100 and 150mm away and always moving the tube in the air flow. Even waving it out of the air path as i go.

You need to move quickly but not rush. Fast is smooth and smooth is fast, but being relaxed and patient is your friend. I normally heat and bend gradually over 3 or so times for like a 90 degree bend, but that might not strictly be necessary of course.

The bubbling is def too much heat too quickly. The flattening might be not heating up a large enough area? When the tube starts to wobble I keep applying heat but more slowly. There should be no need to take it out of the heat and bend right aways.

Like anything its just practice and finding your own technique.


----------



## TheGreyWizard

Ok that's some great advice.

I think I was definitely rushing and thought I had to get the 90* bend all done in one motion.

I am however using a monsoon deluxe pipe bending kit - it seemed way superior and a better bending system.

But their silicon insert does have some wiggle room in there, which seems odd. I have the 1/2 pipe and the 1/2 bending kit - Is this wiggle room going to give me that issue every time?

Seems LePhuronn was having the same issue too?


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> Ok that's some great advice.
> 
> I think I was definitely rushing and thought I had to get the 90* bend all done in one motion.
> 
> I am however using a monsoon deluxe pipe bending kit - it seemed way superior and a better bending system.
> 
> But their silicon insert does have some wiggle room in there, which seems odd. I have the 1/2 pipe and the 1/2 bending kit - Is this wiggle room going to give me that issue every time?
> 
> Seems LePhuronn was having the same issue too?


If the silicone cord has a bit of a wiggle it will definitely give you some flattening. I switched to a solid cord and solved my flattening problem with the Primochill cord but it's really tough to push in or out. Some dish washing liquid helped me out with that problem.


----------



## LePhuronn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGreyWizard*
> 
> ...Seems LePhuronn was having the same issue too?


My issue comes from the amount of force I'm putting on the tube to get the bend as tight as I need it. In theory the inside of my mandrel is the exact circumference for 12mm OD tube, but it's a PLA print so doesn't like heat, so I still get a bit of a flat spot as I cram it in. Plus that also means I get some flaring out of the sides since the soft acrylic needs to go somewhere, it doesn't just vanish.

What helps (and stated in B Negative's original guide) is you pull the tube around the bend, not push it in. That way you form the bend around the angle rather than crushing it in.


----------



## Erik Barone

Hey, have anyone ever tried using mayhem glass tube? I ve been scrooling through the forum looking for a build that uses glass tube but found none so I was wondering why noone uses it. Ive done some research and found that glass has good chemical resistence, scratch resistence, and can be bent and yet its weird that noone builds with it yet


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erik Barone*
> 
> Hey, have anyone ever tried using mayhem glass tube? I ve been scrooling through the forum looking for a build that uses glass tube but found none so I was wondering why noone uses it. Ive done some research and found that glass has good chemical resistence, scratch resistence, and can be bent and yet its weird that noone builds with it yet


I don't believe that it can be bent through conventional means, which is the main reason you aren't seeing it in more builds.


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erik Barone*
> 
> Hey, have anyone ever tried using mayhem glass tube? I ve been scrooling through the forum looking for a build that uses glass tube but found none so I was wondering why noone uses it. Ive done some research and found that glass has good chemical resistence, scratch resistence, and can be bent and yet its weird that noone builds with it yet


There are builds with glass but bending it super difficult and requires extremely high temperatures but I think there are pre-bent glass pieces you can buy. Cutting it is a lot more simpler but trimming is really difficult.


----------



## LePhuronn

Do you know what temperature you need to bend borosilicate glass tubing? Can you get it up to temperature? Do you know how to prevent the inside of the tube collapsing when you heat and bend? This is largely the reason: practicality.

Acrylic tube requires a little bit of know-how and practice to get right, glass is magnitudes more difficult and magnitudes more impractical. I believe Mayehms and Alphacool are selling pre-bent glass tubes now to take the bending issue out of the equation, but even then it's going to be much more fiddly and tricky to get right; certainly I wouldn't use them because I usually need very specific bend radii on the tubes and I won't use elbow fittings.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> There are builds with glass but bending it super difficult and requires extremely high temperatures but I think there are pre-bent glass pieces you can buy. Cutting it is a lot more simpler but trimming is really difficult.


Can you show some of these builds? I've never been able to find one that has bent glass tubing.


----------



## QAKE

Here in Switzerland you can buy some prebend glass tubing, coming in 45 and 90°, single bends.

Found a build Mayhems did: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjQ5fE-Lxrw


----------



## GunfighterAK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> Can you show some of these builds? I've never been able to find one that has bent glass tubing.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kFBjm6BdhI jayztwocents did a build and a nice introductory tutorial.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunfighterAK*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9kFBjm6BdhI jayztwocents did a build and a nice introductory tutorial.


Jay didn't build with bent glass tubing, and then went back to PETG after he had problems with the glass.

And $18 a tube for the only real benefit of the tubing scuffing less and you can use glycol-based coolants...

I think I'll stick to PETG.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

So I ran into a time crunch with my last build and had to abandon my first bending attempt. I seem to be a little bending challenged.









I'm getting ready to rebuild my system to upgrade the video card and I'm thinking of trying again.
Are there materials and diameters that might be a little easier? I stared with a 12/10 E22 acrylic but I could not get smooth bends even with a mandrel kit and tubing.

Any advice would be sincerely appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So I ran into a time crunch with my last build and had to abandon my first bending attempt. I seem to be a little bending challenged.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting ready to rebuild my system to upgrade the video card and I'm thinking of trying again.
> Are there materials and diameters that might be a little easier? I stared with a 12/10 E22 acrylic but I could not get smooth bends even with a mandrel kit and tubing.
> 
> Any advice would be sincerely appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


I did hard line for first time a few weeks ago with 16mm PETG. Took ~3 hours to plan route, learn to bend, and finish the 5 runs. Spent another hour changing one of the runs because it wasnt exactly parallel with another run. I used a silicone insert for 16mm PETG, and monsoon mandrel bending kit (only used 90 deg), and cut the tubing with rigid PVC cutters. The PETG, providing heat large enough area with correct silicone insert, is pretty easy to work with and get clean bends.

While this is not going to bother most people, especially since most just finger tighten fittings anyways... with 16mm OD bitspower tubing and 16mm bitspower fittings, finger tight or wrenched down, I can pull fitting out with medium force, since just compresses rubber around tubing (I guess designed not to damage tubing). I used it for a week, but too nervous since I move my computer around and tinker a lot, so went back to soft tubing. Going to try 1 EK 12 mm fitting and 12 mm petg to see how secure it holds. In ~20 years of watercooling, I never leak test (except looking when filling) because soft tubing wrenched down the swiftech way isnt going to leak. Hardline tubing I did leak test, and even then nervous moving computer around, ie feel I need to leak test again after doing so. But looks so much cleaner, going to try EK, if that doesnt hold tubing any better, Ill wait until some come out that are secure enough to hold even with me yanking on them a bit (like for changing out a fan the lazy way).


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opt33*
> 
> I did hard line for first time a few weeks ago with 16mm PETG. Took ~3 hours to plan route, learn to bend, and finish the 5 runs. Spent another hour changing one of the runs because it wasnt exactly parallel with another run. I used a silicone insert for 16mm PETG, and monsoon mandrel bending kit (only used 90 deg), and cut the tubing with rigid PVC cutters. The PETG, providing heat large enough area with correct silicone insert, is pretty easy to work with and get clean bends.
> 
> While this is not going to bother most people, especially since most just finger tighten fittings anyways... with 16mm OD bitspower tubing and 16mm bitspower fittings, finger tight or wrenched down, I can pull fitting out with medium force, since just compresses rubber around tubing (I guess designed not to damage tubing). I used it for a week, but too nervous since I move my computer around and tinker a lot, so went back to soft tubing. Going to try 1 EK 12 mm fitting and 12 mm petg to see how secure it holds. In ~20 years of watercooling, I never leak test (except looking when filling) because soft tubing wrenched down the swiftech way isnt going to leak. Hardline tubing I did leak test, and even then nervous moving computer around, ie feel I need to leak test again after doing so. But looks so much cleaner, going to try EK, if that doesnt hold tubing any better, Ill wait until some come out that are secure enough to hold even with me yanking on them a bit (like for changing out a fan the lazy way).


I know how you feel. It would make me a little queasy if I could just pull a tube out of a fitting. With my monsoon compression fittings, I sometimes have a hard time disassembling a loop because the primochill tube is in there so tight.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would suggest going with the larger size tubing and fittings for a first attempt. You may find that you actually like that over the smaller diameter tubing in terms of looks. Just take it slow the first couple of tries and eventually with muscle memory/repetition you'll speed up the process. Just don't get too ahead of your process and things will work out.









~Ceadder


----------



## Eusbwoa18

So are Bitspower and EK the 2 fittings that have the firmest hold? Are there better options?


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So are Bitspower and EK the 2 fittings that have the firmest hold? Are there better options?


Barrow...Half the price and easily hold as well as either BP or EK.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> So are Bitspower and EK the 2 fittings that have the firmest hold? Are there better options?


Monsoon Economy v2 fittings probably have the firmest hold as they can hold tubing over all size spectrums from 12mm to 16mm.









~Ceadder


----------



## LePhuronn

I have a couple of offcuts I'm using to measure clearances and symmetry and I cannot get them back out of my fittings for the life of me. Actually slightly concerned I may have to replace one of the fittings because the tube is stuck in there









Using Shakmods 12mm OD acrylic tube with EK HDC 12mm fittings.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

it is possible to make a 180° bend (a U) with acrylic tube ?
No trace at the bend ?
Tips ?

Thanks


----------



## TheCautiousOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> it is possible to make a 180° bend (a U) with acrylic tube ?
> No trace at the bend ?
> Tips ?
> 
> Thanks


I would tend to think so. Would definitely need a silicone insert. Heat a very wide area where you will be bending.

TCO


----------



## apw63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> it is possible to make a 180° bend (a U) with acrylic tube ?
> No trace at the bend ?
> Tips ?
> 
> Thanks


I've done very close to 180. Think as far as I've bent is 170ish. I've never done a tight 180 never needed to. It can be done. Just need as TheCautiousOne silicon insert. Would help to have something to bend around. Practice practice practice you burn up enough material you will get it.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> it is possible to make a 180° bend (a U) with acrylic tube ?
> No trace at the bend ?
> Tips ?
> 
> Thanks


There's plenty of examples of builds with 180° bends, you just can't make them ultra-tight.

Do people actually bend without inserts? That seems like a disaster waiting to happen.

Additionally, has anyone used boiling water to soften tubes for bending? It seems like a boiling bath would be a good way to evenly heat long distances of tubing for bending.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> it is possible to make a 180° bend (a U) with acrylic tube ?
> No trace at the bend ?
> Tips ?
> 
> Thanks


Watch this vid ... about 7 to 8 mins in.


----------



## Ithanul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phazeshifta*
> 
> There's plenty of examples of builds with 180° bends, you just can't make them ultra-tight.
> 
> Do people actually bend without inserts? That seems like a disaster waiting to happen.
> 
> Additionally, has anyone used boiling water to soften tubes for bending? It seems like a boiling bath would be a good way to evenly heat long distances of tubing for bending.


Never heard of boiling water being used, but I heard of hot sand being used to bend acrylic or heat pads made specifically for that purpose.


----------



## Cloudforever

sub


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks for your help


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I currently have Bitspower acrylic tubes 12/16, I would like to test the PETG (easier for bends)
PETG is less transparent (clear) than acrylic is that? there is a big difference (well, if it really shows)

Having tubes Bitspower acrylic, I am satisfied, I wanted to test the Bitspower PETG but in the description it is indicated that it is compatible with the Bitspower fittings
Can I use ekwb without problems or not ?

Thanks

PS: Bitspower or ekwb will be of the same quality I guess?
I take the cheapest or one is better than the other?


----------



## Jakerz

As long as tubing is 16mm OD I don't see where the brand of fitting matters all that much, but I would leak test it the same as with any loop for sure. I used the 12/16mm Bitspower PETG in my build I'm finishing up now and have no complaints, it bends easy enough and it's plenty clear for dyes IMO.

Jake


----------



## tistou77

Ok thanks 
You deburrs the PETG with what ?


----------



## Jakerz

I have this one http://www.performance-pcs.com/ppcs-acrylic-tubing-pipe-reamer.html

It works great, you just have to spin it clockwise for the OD and counter-clockwise for the ID or it will dig into he tubing to much, PETG is really soft.

Jake


----------



## Barefooter

tistou77 said:


> Ok thanks
> You deburrs the PETG with what ?


The one Jakerz listed will work, but this one here is superior.
Primochill Rigid Tubing Finishing Bit

The tubing on the right is the one I used the Primochill tool on.


----------



## jvillaveces

Barefooter said:


> The one Jakerz listed will work, but this one here is superior.
> Primochill Rigid Tubing Finishing Bit
> 
> The tubing on the right is the one I used the Primochill tool on.


This is the best tool! Very useful not just for deburring, also for shortening the tube a few mm at a time to get the perfect length


----------



## Leonko

is it adjustable somehow? considering there are 12-14-16 tube diameters


----------



## Barefooter

Leonko said:


> is it adjustable somehow? considering there are 12-14-16 tube diameters


It is not adjustable. There are two sizes that I am aware of:

1/2in. ID x 5/8 in. OD

3/8in. ID x 1/2 in. OD


----------



## tistou77

Jakerz said:


> I have this one http://www.performance-pcs.com/ppcs-acrylic-tubing-pipe-reamer.html
> 
> It works great, you just have to spin it clockwise for the OD and counter-clockwise for the ID or it will dig into he tubing to much, PETG is really soft.
> 
> Jake


Thanks, and the tube is not damaged (chips) with this tool ?
I saw videos where it was a disaster with this tool on the PETG



Barefooter said:


> The one Jakerz listed will work, but this one here is superior.
> Primochill Rigid Tubing Finishing Bit
> 
> The tubing on the right is the one I used the Primochill tool on.


And the tubing on the left ? With the tool listed by Jakerz ?

I bought this product some time ago, but does not work with my tubes acrylic Bitspower and EKWB (12/16), the tube does not fit in the tool

For 12/16, what is the ID / OD (I never remember) ?
It will work for Bitspower and EKWB tubes (Acrylic and PETG) ?

Thanks for your help


----------



## Barefooter

tistou77 said:


> Thanks, and the tube is not damaged (chips) with this tool ?
> I saw videos where it was a disaster with this tool on the PETG
> 
> 
> And the tubing on the left ? With the tool listed by Jakerz ?
> 
> I bought this product some time ago, but does not work with my tubes acrylic Bitspower and EKWB (12/16), the tube does not fit in the tool
> 
> For 12/16, what is the ID / OD (I never remember) ?
> It will work for Bitspower and EKWB tubes (Acrylic and PETG) ?
> 
> Thanks for your help



The tube on the left in my picture was done with the tool you linked. That tool is complete junk!

The tool you want is the first one I linked, the 1/2 in. ID x 5/8 in. OD


----------



## Abaidor

tistou77 said:


> Thanks, and the tube is not damaged (chips) with this tool ?
> I saw videos where it was a disaster with this tool on the PETG
> 
> 
> And the tubing on the left ? With the tool listed by Jakerz ?
> 
> I bought this product some time ago, but does not work with my tubes acrylic Bitspower and EKWB (12/16), the tube does not fit in the tool
> 
> For 12/16, what is the ID / OD (I never remember) ?
> It will work for Bitspower and EKWB tubes (Acrylic and PETG) ?
> 
> Thanks for your help



What you bought from Highflow is exactly the same tool with the Primochill and in fact should be more stable as well since it has this housing for the pipe. The problem is that it is designed for pipes using the metric system so tubes measured in inches might not fit.

The 16mm Highflow tool can be modified to work with both 12 & 16mm tubes.


----------



## Barefooter

Abaidor said:


> What you bought from Highflow is exactly the same tool with the Primochill and in fact should be more stable as well since it has this housing for the pipe. The problem is that it is designed for pipes using the metric system so tubes measured in inches might not fit.
> 
> The 16mm Highflow tool can be modified to work with both 12 & 16mm tubes.


I completely disagree, they are not even the same tools.











On the far left tube here I used the reamer tool that comes in the Monsoon bending kits. The center tube is using the Highflow tool. That tool will also scratch the crap out of the outside of the tube as well leaving a rough cut finish. The tube on the right was done with the Primochill tool. Not to mention if you live in the States the Primochill tool is about 1/4 of the cost of the inferior Highflow tool!











And if anyone want to buy one of those Highflow tools I'll sell you mine for cheap


----------



## Abaidor

Barefooter said:


> I completely disagree, they are not even the same tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the far left tube here I used the reamer tool that comes in the Monsoon bending kits. The center tube is using the Highflow tool. That tool will also scratch the crap out of the outside of the tube as well leaving a rough cut finish. The tube on the right was done with the Primochill tool. Not to mention if you live in the States the Primochill tool is about 1/4 of the cost of the inferior Highflow tool!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if anyone want to buy one of those Highflow tools I'll sell you mine for cheap



Well since I don't have the tool I only based my assumption on the "design" of the tool which is based on the same principle.

It looks like the Highflow tool is not using high quality blades vs the Primochill then that admittedly and judging from your pictures produces an excellent result. 

It was in my radar but I want to use 13mm tubes with Bitspowe fittings so the only other option was the one from Highflow. I searched a lot to find something similar through other sources but haven't found anything yet. I plan on getting one along with hard tubing after the summer when I will remake my loop with hard tubes - (temporarily with soft tubing right now).


Does the Primochill tool work with 13mm tubes?


----------



## tistou77

Thanks for your feedback 
The Primochill tool can not be used with Acrylic ?

EDIT : @Abaidor
Compatibility 
•Size: 1/2in. ID x 5/8 in. OD (12mm ID x 16mm OD or *13mm ID *x 16mm OD) 
•Material: PETG, PMMA (Due to extremely quick dulling of the bit, Copper tubing is not recommended.)


----------



## DarthBaggins

I need to get one of those bits, the way I've been doing is just tedious and time consuming.


----------



## Abaidor

tistou77 said:


> Thanks for your feedback
> The Primochill tool can not be used with Acrylic ?
> 
> EDIT : @Abaidor
> Compatibility
> •Size: 1/2in. ID x 5/8 in. OD (12mm ID x 16mm OD or *13mm ID *x 16mm OD)
> •Material: PETG, PMMA (Due to extremely quick dulling of the bit, Copper tubing is not recommended.)



Well it looks like it will do the job but I was actually wondering if anyone has used it with 13mm tubes.

Now the other problem is that it needs to be bought from the USA but I live in Europe meaning it will cost up to 80-90 Euros. Oh well, the cost of perfection.....


----------



## tistou77

Abaidor said:


> Well it looks like it will do the job but I was actually wondering if anyone has used it with 13mm tubes.
> 
> Now the other problem is that it needs to be bought from the USA but I live in Europe meaning it will cost up to 80-90 Euros. Oh well, the cost of perfection.....


I also live in Europe, bought on Amazon.com for 36 € shipping and taxes included


----------



## Abaidor

tistou77 said:


> I also live in Europe, bought on Amazon.com for 36 € shipping and taxes included


Great! I will get it from there too then! 
Thanks


----------



## Leonko

When we talked about this tubing finnishing bit, i wrote to Primochil, that they dont have it in EU at all. Not even 1 from their 4 resselesr have it in Europe. Same with EU amazon eshops. 

They respond :



> Hi *****,
> Thank you for contacting us. We are updating inventory Amazon each month. We will be sure to let the inventory people know about the RFB's. Thank you.


----------



## jvillaveces

Abaidor said:


> Well it looks like it will do the job but I was actually wondering if anyone has used it with 13mm tubes.
> 
> Now the other problem is that it needs to be bought from the USA but I live in Europe meaning it will cost up to 80-90 Euros. Oh well, the cost of perfection.....


The first time I saw this type of tool it was sold by Highflow in the Netherlands. Many months later Primochill started offering it in the US. I don't know if they are the same or just similar, but I would still recommend looking at Highflow.


----------



## Abaidor

I ended up getting the Primochill tool from Amazon.com and it cost me about 40 Euros including taxes. I have not used it yet since I am gathering parts for hard tubes / vertical GPU mount and PSU sleeved cables before I drain the loop so it will be some time before I use it.


----------

