# Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk!!!



## fat4l

Guys, new liquid metal paste coming to the market soon : *Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk*








http://www.computerbase.de/2015-12/intel-skylake-heatspreader-delid-die-mate-test/2/



For comparison, here is the "Thermal Conductivity" values for comparison:
Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut - 73 W/mk
Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - 38.4 W/mk
Coollaboratory Liquid Pro - 32.6 W/mk
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut -12.5 W/mk
Gelid GC-Extreme - 8.5 W/mk

Our cpus/gpus need it!(at least mine







)

What do you guys think ?








I personally wonder how this paste will perform vs CL Ultra/Pro.

Other info://
It costs 6£ for a syringe.
They told me it's 0,16ml(1g).

CL Pro is:
0,15 ml(1g) and costs 9£ for a syringe.


----------



## szeged

inb4 $500 for a one time use syringe.

ill stick with gelid still.


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## zalbard

Going to be really expensive, with the difference of at most 1-2 degrees when compared to CLU.


----------



## DR4G00N

Considering that 1 gram of kryonaut costs $12 Cad this'll be some expensive stuff.


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## ozlay

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/thermal-grizzly-conductonaut-thermal-paste-1g-th-021-tg.html

$7 a gram?

not too bad but yeah a lot more expensive then other options


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## fat4l

It costs 6£ for a syringe.
They told me it's 0,16ml(1g).

CL pro is:
0,15 ml(1g) and costs 9£.


----------



## zalbard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/thermal-grizzly-conductonaut-thermal-paste-1g-th-021-tg.html
> 
> $7 a gram?


That's not too expensive, actually.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> Considering that 1 gram of kryonaut costs $12 Cad this'll be some expensive stuff.


I imported some with my recent parcel from Germany. Works out to about 6 $/g. When I ordered it, they didn't sell it in Canada at all. I started talking to them about selling it here, but they would never tell me a unit price, so I gave up on it.

I definitely bought more than I need though.


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## Benjiw

So has anyone tried it on their CPUs and GPUs? What temp decreases did you see?


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## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> So has anyone tried it on their CPUs and GPUs? What temp decreases did you see?


noone in the UK I guess as ocuk ordered 20, I bought 1, and they still have 19 in stock....


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## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> noone in the UK I guess as ocuk ordered 20, I bought 1, and they still have 19 in stock....


I wish... you would of posted this sooner as I ordered some CLU from amazon and used that on my bare die mount and the temp difference on the T-Grizzly compared to CLU has got my underpants in a twist. Keep thinking of offering a delid service as I have a delid mate tool thingy, I can even glue the IHS back on if the customer wants.


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## Cakewalk_S

I'm thinking this is marketing propaganda with this thermal paste. I'm finally going to pick myself up some CLU for the first time and all my research leads me to believe that gallium, which is liquid at room temp, is the best thermal conductivity you can really get for a thermal paste. Yes, silver is way better but what, they crushed silver and made silver powder and introduced that into gallium?

I'll stick to CLU.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I'm thinking this is marketing propaganda with this thermal paste. I'm finally going to pick myself up some CLU for the first time and all my research leads me to believe that gallium, which is liquid at room temp, is the best thermal conductivity you can really get for a thermal paste. Yes, silver is way better but what, they crushed silver and made silver powder and introduced that into gallium?
> 
> I'll stick to CLU.


Logically you would have to try both to disprove that also this TIM is new so you wouldn't have found much info on it. I'll pick up a tube and see if there is much difference between them.


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## outofmyheadyo

Why are they comparing it to regular tims ? Comparing it to CLU/CLP wont match up ?


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## Yuhfhrh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Why are they comparing it to regular tims ? Comparing it to CLU/CLP wont match up ?


I know right. I only care if it performs better than the existing liquid metals.


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## AdamKelly

Wonder if its any better then indigo xtreme


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## KG101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yuhfhrh*
> 
> I know right. I only care if it performs better than the existing liquid metals.


I personally only care and/or will purchase if it for sure lasts longer without aging out like coolabs.. Arctic Mx-4 claims 8 yrs if it lasts 3 without a freshening up that is great , there is no reason a metal tim should really ever break down or perform more than a few degrees worse over time & that aint always the case with clu/ clu pro unfortunately


----------



## AdamKelly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KG101*
> 
> I personally only care and/or will purchase if it for sure lasts longer without aging out like coolabs.. Arctic Mx-4 claims 8 yrs if it lasts 3 without a freshening up that is great , there is no reason a metal tim should really ever break down or perform more than a few degrees worse over time & that aint always the case with clu/ clu pro unfortunately


As far as I know CL ultra doesn't suffer from drying out like CLPro.


----------



## Yuhfhrh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KG101*
> 
> I personally only care and/or will purchase if it for sure lasts longer without aging out like coolabs.. Arctic Mx-4 claims 8 yrs if it lasts 3 without a freshening up that is great , there is no reason a metal tim should really ever break down or perform more than a few degrees worse over time & that aint always the case with clu/ clu pro unfortunately


I've had CLU in many systems for many years, never had degraded performance or any drying out.


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## rodaduck

gladd i found this thread , i started a thread on this very same tim , and when someone uses this stuff please post , over the average paste its almost 10x better , im fairly new to this but do alot of reading for the first time i see the term "clu" what is that stand for im sure its simple , thanks


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## Yuhfhrh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodaduck*
> 
> gladd i found this thread , i started a thread on this very same tim , and when someone uses this stuff please post , over the average paste its almost 10x better , im fairly new to this but do alot of reading for the first time i see the term "clu" what is that stand for im sure its simple , thanks


Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra


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## IaVoR

Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra / Coollaboratory Liquid Pro I think.


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## KG101

Off Topic somewhat but the mention of CLU , and fact everyone kept saying it pits copper blocks [not nickel plated copper blocks] made me remove it from the h80i I intend on selling likely and replaced it with the arctic MX4 I always use between ihs and cooler block ..

t did stain it did not remove with alcohol nor arctic cleaner part 1 + part 2 - and that was after almost 10 attempts to wipe it off
--And keep in mind that was just after a week of it being there

TEMPS PRIME 95 287 SMALL FFT// CORSAIR h80i GT // i5-4670k 1.25v

CoolLaboratory CLU



Arctic MX-4



There is only a 2-3 degree difference the CLU was on a week before that test , MX-4 after just a day


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## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KG101*
> 
> Off Topic somewhat but the mention of CLU , and fact everyone kept saying it pits copper blocks [not nickel plated copper blocks] made me remove it from the h80i I intend on selling likely and replaced it with the arctic MX4 I always use between ihs and cooler block ..
> 
> t did stain it did not remove with alcohol nor arctic cleaner part 1 + part 2 - and that was after almost 10 attempts to wipe it off
> --And keep in mind that was just after a week of it being there
> 
> TEMPS PRIME 95 287 SMALL FFT// CORSAIR h80i GT // i5-4670k 1.25v
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CoolLaboratory CLU
> 
> 
> 
> Arctic MX-4
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is only a 2-3 degree difference the CLU was on a week before that test , MX-4 after just a day


I believe the issue is the block is cooled off by the time you remove the CLU...which the gallium is bonded to the block..appearing to be stained. I would imagine if you heat the block up with a blow dryer or something you'll be able to get it all off... Although don't quote me on it...

My biggest concern with the liquid metals are 2 fold...
1. Does it attack the actual die it sits on and
2. After the cooler is seated on the chip...will there be any runout that might drip and fall on other components...

I'm planning on using CLU in my new laptop but I'm trying to figure out how much precaution I need to go through to cover other components that might come in contact with the CLU... I've also wondered if there's any gassing out of the gallium which could invade surrounding metals other than copper that could weaken or destroy the components... I may start off with a normal paste and if I feel CLU is needed, then I'll try it....


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## Stige

It does nothing to the DIE, it does not even harden between the IHS and DIE.

Never had any issues with this paste at all, best there is.


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## KG101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I believe the issue is the block is cooled off by the time you remove the CLU...which the gallium is bonded to the block..appearing to be stained. I would imagine if you heat the block up with a blow dryer or something you'll be able to get it all off... _Although don't quote me on it.._.


Lol oops , but actually somewhat quote worthy that does make plenty of sense
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> It does nothing to the DIE, it does not even harden between the IHS and DIE.
> 
> Never had any issues with this paste at all, best there is.


You sure? Thing is , I did replace the CLU this time and there are stains on my die they look like waterspots almost but dark not pitted but that was what I thought I saw upon first cleaning the die with alcohol it surely is 'something' though not damage it was there after 3-4 attempts to clean it I even went on and used the rough 70% IP cloth that came with my clu it didnt work either.
Finished up with a mf rag and proceeded to reapply leaving a little more at the top edge of cpu since delids slide about a 1/4" even when I hold the IHS lid in placve nice and straight meanwhile

Oh the die is stained alrite

That run was 8 months between die ihs fyi
A few degrees hardly qualifies any paste as the best longevitity is a huge factor as is lack of changes damages to your hardware


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## Stige

My die is still mirror finish and only used cloth to get the CLU off it the 3 times I have taken it apart.
Never had any effect on the die itself from CLU or CLP.


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## KG101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> My die is still mirror finish and only used cloth to get the CLU off it the 3 times I have taken it apart.
> Never had any effect on the die itself from CLU or CLP.


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## mouacyk

More testing done here vs IC Diamond (not by me): http://imgur.com/a/JSgoH


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## saintruski

If people never found answers i can run some extensive tests and get comparisons between these. I have Conductonaut, CLU, Kryonaut, MX-4, Ectotherm, i have few others laying around but i dont have the time really.


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## rodaduck

still no answers . that would be great if someone put it to the test ..


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## stin0

I have some AS5, MX4, Kryonaut and CLU which I could test on a delid 4690K.
The difference between kryonaut and MX-4 on the heatspreader (so between waterblock and cpu) was like non existent.
Sadly I dont have any Conductonaut to compare vs CLU


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## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> If people never found answers i can run some extensive tests and get comparisons between these. I have Conductonaut, CLU, Kryonaut, MX-4, Ectotherm, i have few others laying around but i dont have the time really.


That would be super cool








Mostly, CL pro/ultra vs Conductonaut


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## Stige

I doubt there will be that big of a difference tbh. The Liquid Metals are already pushing the heat transfer to their limits, only way to beat that really is solder. I think we are more limited by other factors than our TIM these days, Liquid Metals are just that good. CLP, CLU and Phobya LM are all pretty much withing error of margin of each other.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I'm thinking this is marketing propaganda with this thermal paste. I'm finally going to pick myself up some CLU for the first time and all my research leads me to believe that gallium, which is liquid at room temp, is the best thermal conductivity you can really get for a thermal paste. Yes, silver is way better but what, they crushed silver and made silver powder and introduced that into gallium?
> 
> I'll stick to CLU.


Eutectic alloys melt at the lowest melting point of their constituent elements and gallium has much worse thermal conductivity than many eutectic alloys that use it as a base, including CLU.

If this alloy is mostly indium and tin, as Thermal Grizzly's material hits at, it could easily have the advertised thermal conductivity and still melt at the same point as gallium.

Of course, raw thermal conductivity does not always translate into performance for TIMs, but I don't see anything suspicious about Conductonaut.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I believe the issue is the block is cooled off by the time you remove the CLU...which the gallium is bonded to the block..appearing to be stained. I would imagine if you heat the block up with a blow dryer or something you'll be able to get it all off... Although don't quote me on it...


Gallium wets surfaces very well and unless it's an extremely polished and non-reactive surface, you aren't going to get it all off, even if it's liquid at the time.

People with plated or mirror lapped bases will generally be ok, but anything with a rough surface is going to be stained until lapped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> My biggest concern with the liquid metals are 2 fold...
> 1. Does it attack the actual die it sits on and


Silicon is generally only going to be attacked by halogens and some strong bases. Liquid metal TIMs are safe on.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I doubt there will be that big of a difference tbh. The Liquid Metals are already pushing the heat transfer to their limits, only way to beat that really is solder. I think we are more limited by other factors than our TIM these days, Liquid Metals are just that good. CLP, CLU and Phobya LM are all pretty much withing error of margin of each other.


Diminishing returns certainly seems to apply, though that's not any reason to avoid hard data.


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## Cakewalk_S

The more I research this stuff and the more I hear people's testimonials, I believe the clu liquid metal will be safe on a laptop if it's applied correctly... Which will be a must since I'll be going for the max overclock on my gpu once I get it...
Ive heard clu comes with enough to do 4 applications? I think I'll use it on my 2500k then save the rest for my xps 15...should be enough I'd think..


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## Stige

I honestly don't understand how people get 4 applications out of that thiny tube.

I can just about do the IHS + DIE with one tube, with very little extra left. Like half the CLU gets stuck on the brush or whatever you use to spread it.


----------



## stin0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I honestly don't understand how people get 4 applications out of that thiny tube.
> 
> I can just about do the IHS + DIE with one tube, with very little extra left. Like half the CLU gets stuck on the brush or whatever you use to spread it.


I did the IHS 3 times and the DIE 2 times and still have some left








Tip: Grab a pair of scissors and cut off 60% of the brush. It's way too long and, as you said already, most gets stuck inside the freaking brush.
I did it after the first usage and it helped a lot


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## wirk

Wonder how Conductonaut could improve cooling of Xeon not requiring delidding since it is soldered?


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wirk*
> 
> Wonder how Conductonaut could improve cooling of Xeon not requiring delidding since it is soldered?


Not in any way that would matter because you can't overclock them either.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I honestly don't understand how people get 4 applications out of that thiny tube.
> 
> I can just about do the IHS + DIE with one tube, with very little extra left. Like half the CLU gets stuck on the brush or whatever you use to spread it.


For my 1g tube, I got the following applications:
1) 4770K die to heat sink
2) 4770K heat sink to water block
3) 980 TI die to EK water block
4) 4790K heat sink to water block


----------



## wirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wirk*
> 
> Wonder how Conductonaut could improve cooling of Xeon not requiring delidding since it is soldered?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> Not in any way that would matter because you can't overclock them either.


Whaaaaaaa???? Am I in delusion typing this on my heavily overclocked 4.5 GHz Xeon







? :



Things as they are only multi-socket Xeons are locked, single-socket ones are not.

My question is thus fully valid: High-end Intel processors are soldered and thus delidding is not needed. Question is thus how big improvement can Condactonaut make comparing to high-end thermal paste without delidding. My system is watercooled. I am planning rebuilding it when Pascal graphics cards will arrive and that may include thermal paste both for the processor and graphics cards.


----------



## wirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> For my 1g tube, I got the following applications:
> 1) 4770K die to heat sink
> 2) 4770K heat sink to water block
> 3) 980 TI die to EK water block
> 4) 4790K heat sink to water block


How do you check the contact is right in every case? In particular with full cover water block?


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## mouacyk

I find it sufficient to use proven application methods and verify temperatures are in line with others relative to lower quality pastes. For gpu full cover block you can visually inspect by looking for gaps in the vrm and vram contacts.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wirk*
> 
> How do you check the contact is right in every case? In particular with full cover water block?


You can't get it wrong with liquid metal, you just can't.


----------



## wirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> I find it sufficient to use proven application methods and verify temperatures are in line with others relative to lower quality pastes. For gpu full cover block you can visually inspect by looking for gaps in the vrm and vram contacts.


Vrm and Vram are done with thermal pads, I am concerned about the GPU contact. When I was using thermal paste I found that contact was not good when the layer was very thin. Simply when I applied the paste, pressed the block, took the block away the block surface was clean or covered in some places. Only when i applied more paste there was full contact. So I wonder if very little Condactonaut will be sufficient.


----------



## stin0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wirk*
> 
> Vrm and Vram are done with thermal pads, I am concerned about the GPU contact. When I was using thermal paste I found that contact was not good when the layer was very thin. Simply when I applied the paste, pressed the block, took the block away the block surface was clean or covered in some places. Only when i applied more paste there was full contact. So I wonder if very little Condactonaut will be sufficient.


Pressing the block and taking the block away doesn't compare to actually fastening the screws so the block is actually pressed firmly in place.
Any layer of thermal paste will suffice, even the smallest amount of a liquid metal paste such as Grizzly Condutonaut or CLU.
In the thermal paste world 'less is always more'









Remember that thermal paste is mostly used to ensure the waterblock and chip are making 100% contact, because both surfaces are not a 100% flat (impurities).
Thus you should always apply the least possible thermal paste.


----------



## STEvil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> You can't get it wrong with liquid metal, you just can't.


Sure you can, but then it would also be wrong with any other TIM as well. Warped IHS/heatsink makes everything wrong!


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stin0*
> 
> Any layer of thermal paste will suffice, even the smallest amount of a liquid metal paste such as Grizzly Condutonaut or CLU.
> In the thermal paste world 'less is always more'


Plenty of GPU dies and heatspreaders aren't flat enough for very thin layers to suffice.

You want the thinnest bondline possible, but you absolutely do not want to leave any voids.


----------



## Stige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *STEvil*
> 
> Sure you can, but then it would also be wrong with any other TIM as well. Warped IHS/heatsink makes everything wrong!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Plenty of GPU dies and heatspreaders aren't flat enough for very thin layers to suffice.
> 
> You want the thinnest bondline possible, but you absolutely do not want to leave any voids.


I think you are overexaggarating this, I have yet to see a single heat sink that uneven that it wouldn't make contact with a CLU.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stige*
> 
> I think you are overexaggarating this, I have yet to see a single heat sink that uneven that it wouldn't make contact with a CLU.


I'm not exaggerating.

I have numerous parts where the die, IHS, block, or heatsink base is not flat enough for a thin layer of CLU or other TIM to make solid contact.


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## xenolith

According to the instructions for applying Conductonaut, they say to spread a layer on both the CPU and heatsink cooler.



That's different than CLU and CLP in that they say a layer should be spread only on the CPU.

I just found that to be interesting.

Also, even by applying Conductonaut on both surfaces, you still get 20 applications! At nearly half the price of CLU, that makes Conductonaut by far the better deal.

I found this post (which should've been it's own thread) buried deep in the delidded club guide thread showing a pretty good comparison between CLU and Conductonaut: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide/29800_100#post_24869257


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenolith*
> 
> According to the instructions for applying Conductonaut, they say to spread a layer on both the CPU and heatsink cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> That's different than CLU and CLP in that they say a layer should be spread only on the CPU.
> 
> I just found that to be interesting.
> 
> Also, even by applying Conductonaut on both surfaces, you still get 20 applications! At nearly half the price of CLU, that makes Conductonaut by far the better deal.
> 
> I found this post (which should've been it's own thread) buried deep in the delidded club guide thread showing a pretty good comparison between CLU and Conductonaut: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide/29800_100#post_24869257


Thanks for that. Looks like it's not quite as good, barely though, but ahrder to spread.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MattyMatt*
> 
> Thanks for that. Looks like it's not quite as good, barely though, but ahrder to spread.


Price to performance is better though.


----------



## MattyMatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Price to performance is better though.


True enough. A pack of CLU costs as much as one of these, but has a quarter of the contents.


----------



## jlhawn

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/processors/000005576.html


----------



## Iwamotto Tetsuz

8 C diffrence with paste that is insane


----------



## Prophet4NO1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jlhawn*
> 
> http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/processors/000005576.html


This does not really apply to liquid metal TIM.


----------



## fat4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenolith*
> 
> According to the instructions for applying Conductonaut, they say to spread a layer on both the CPU and heatsink cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> That's different than CLU and CLP in that they say a layer should be spread only on the CPU.
> 
> I just found that to be interesting.
> 
> Also, even by applying Conductonaut on both surfaces, you still get 20 applications! At nearly half the price of CLU, that makes Conductonaut by far the better deal.
> 
> I found this post (which should've been it's own thread) buried deep in the delidded club guide thread showing a pretty good comparison between CLU and Conductonaut: http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-club-guide/29800_100#post_24869257


I dont think he appleid it to both surfaces.
Its a must otherwise the temps will not be that great because the paste will not make the proper contact with the cooler. Its the same like if you didn't spread it on the IHS. What would happen? The coverage would not be great and this is whats happening.
Also you are saying CLU doesnt need to be applied to both surfaces. In my exp, it does. Even the manufacturer says it:
"You can apply the Liquid Ultraon one or both surfaces, but the whole applied amount should not be too big."
I don't think that review is good nuff...


----------



## xenolith

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat4l*
> 
> I dont think he appleid it to both surfaces.
> Its a must otherwise the temps will not be that great because the paste will not make the proper contact with the cooler. Its the same like if you didn't spread it on the IHS. What would happen? The coverage would not be great and this is whats happening.
> *Also you are saying CLU doesnt need to be applied to both surfaces. In my exp, it does. Even the manufacturer says it:
> "You can apply the Liquid Ultraon one or both surfaces, but the whole applied amount should not be too big."*
> I don't think that review is good nuff...


I see that in the pdf instructions by Coollaboratory now.



I was only going by the instructional video they put out that shows them applying CLU only to the IHS: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3N3D1zaeJoU

The fact that their website looks like is in Dutch made me rely just on the video. Which a lot of english speaking folks mistakenly maybe doing the same.


----------



## jlhawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prophet4NO1*
> 
> This does not really apply to liquid metal TIM.


I know, I posted the link as a few pages back some were asking about thermal paste and not liquid.








I should have said why I posted the link.


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saintruski*
> 
> If people never found answers i can run some extensive tests and get comparisons between these. I have Conductonaut, CLU, Kryonaut, MX-4, Ectotherm, i have few others laying around but i dont have the time really.


Have you done any testing?
cna you compare CLU,CLP,PLM,MX-4,GC Extreme and Conduconaut?


----------



## Cakewalk_S

I should be picking up some Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut in a month or so once I sell my other water cooling parts and can afford it..I'll let you know how it compares to PK-1


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I should be picking up some Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut in a month or so once I sell my other water cooling parts and can afford it..I'll let you know how it compares to PK-1


f you could compare with MX-2 and/or MX-4 would be great , thanks


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I should be picking up some Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut in a month or so once I sell my other water cooling parts and can afford it..I'll let you know how it compares to PK-1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> f you could compare with MX-2 and MX-4 would be great , thanks
Click to expand...

Send me a tube of either and I'd be glad to compare...lol

Edit: After doing some research, I've determined that all liquid metal pastes, CLU, CLP, Phobya Liquid Metal, Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, they're all made with the same 3 metals: Gallium, Indium, and Tin. The alloy is called: Galinstan. I believe there can also be some Bismuth in the metal to increase the "wetting" of the liquid metal and reducing the melting point. So basically almost all liquid metals should perform within a few C, if that, of each other. ANDDDD with that said I ordered another tube of CLU. Plus it was only $12 so it was $3 cheaper than the Thermal grizzly plus it came with 0.5G more which could make a difference if I'm doing multiple applications...


----------



## The Stilt

I would love to see this stuff getting tested by an independent lab to see it's actual thermal conductivity.

The best commercial liquid metal (Indium Corp Alloy 14) has a verified thermal conductivity of 28.1W/m-K. Likewise the sTIM (which is mostly indium and therefore solid in rt) used by AMD and Intel is rated for "just" 62W/m-K.


----------



## fat4l

cmon, compare with CL pro/ultra







Someone ?


----------



## ThomasD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Eutectic alloys melt at the lowest melting point of their constituent elements...


No, the definition of a eutectic is a mixture that displays a melting point below that of any of it's individual constituents. The classic chemistry class example is menthol and camphor, both of which are solid at room temperature, but when mixed form a liquid.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

I just can't really deviate away from CLU that's been proven by so many people here... I'm a believer.. For this air cooler I'm maxing out the capacity of the air cooler but it sure performs well!


----------



## KG101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> I just can't really deviate away from CLU that's been proven by so many people here... I'm a believer.. For this air cooler I'm maxing out the capacity of the air cooler but it sure performs well!


I'm afraid to use it on my heatsink honestly not a nickel one but I have a lapped ihs - which means raw copper and yeah they say safe on copper but I've seen otherwise myself

And dude, You put way too much clu - you hve enough leftover on the heatsink to get the excess off with the brush and cover your cpu IHS also I hope that was your plan










*both surfaces need to mate, and both uberthin.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KG101*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cakewalk_S*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just can't really deviate away from CLU that's been proven by so many people here... I'm a believer.. For this air cooler I'm maxing out the capacity of the air cooler but it sure performs well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm afraid to use it on my heatsink honestly not a nickel one but I have a lapped ihs - which means raw copper and yeah they say safe on copper but I've seen otherwise myself
> 
> And dude, You put way too much clu - you hve enough leftover on the heatsink to get the excess off with the brush and cover your cpu IHS also I hope that was your plan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *both surfaces need to mate, and both uberthin.
Click to expand...

It actually is an uber small amount of CLU... It's amazing how far the stuff will go. I used just under half a gram of paste according to the syringe. So I technically have 2-3 more applications left.
Not sure why OCN has failing image uploads right now but here's some of my photos before the CLU is spread..


----------



## KG101

Too much , way too much really you have enough left o the heatsink application to get off the excess with the brush and use on the ihs as I said already .

If the picture above is clu that is like 5x too much I used barely single dot off the tip of the syringe for delid and it was plenty I had enough left pooling up to do the lid where they mated test fit , and you gotta spread it like 10 times in all directions I usually start side to side then go from there up and down ..

So for an ihs to heatsink the blob up top of about the right amount ... For both

Note to self why does it feel like I'm actually repeating myself , yet in even more vivid detail hmm whyy


----------



## KG101

Coollab bros CLU + MX-4









ZOOM http://imgur.com/HtrxBCe

ThermalGrizzly Conductonougat + MX-4









ZOOM http://imgur.com/xQa3HV7

So on all but one core maybe 2-3 degreez difference here,

And unsure since I only added a thin line of additonal mx-4 to ihs, upon reseating the block with the weekold paste on it still from previous mount - It is kinda odd to me one core stayed the exact same temp so that maybe why

*EDIT: In 'performance mode' fans ran 1100-1300 max .. I manually sat them to 1850 rpm or so *with conductonautiness of course**
_Here->>_

http://imgur.com/X67084q

*EDIT²* Temps are down , and also leveled out across the board apparently after 25 hours









ZOOM http://imgur.com/v2rwGay


----------



## tistou77

Hello

I always wanted to try the "liquid metal" but I have a fear of how to clean the paste after.

Just cleaned with the product for classic paste ?
It does not damage the CPU (5930K) and the waterblock (Koolance or Ek waterblock) ?
Best gain compared to the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut ?
Which take ?

Thanks for your help


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I always wanted to try the "liquid metal" but I have a fear of how to clean the paste after.
> 
> Just cleaned with the product for classic paste ?
> It does not damage the CPU (5930K) and the waterblock (Koolance or Ek waterblock) ?
> Best gain compared to the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut ?
> Which take ?
> 
> Thanks for your help


Hello liquid metal is east to clean off it doesn't harden really an yes you can use the same stuff to clean it off as regular thermal paste. You only need a small amount of liquid metal because you need to brush it on to the surface of the components but because it is liquid metal it is highly conductive so be careful.


----------



## tistou77

Thanks for your feedback


----------



## tistou77

it's better to test the CLU or Grizzly ?

Réel gain with WC ? I have often seen air cooling tests


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> it's better to test the CLU or Grizzly ?
> 
> Réel gain with WC ? I have often seen air cooling tests


The reason we use liquid metal is it doesn't squeeze out between the die and the IHS if you are naked mounting a waterblock the difference between CLU and thermal grizzly will be 1-2c.

Get which one is cheaper for you they'll both work fine


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> The reason we use liquid metal is it doesn't squeeze out between the die and the IHS if you are naked mounting a waterblock the difference between CLU and thermal grizzly will be 1-2c.
> 
> Get which one is cheaper for you they'll both work fine


It is for use between IHS and waterblock (5930K)


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> It is for use between IHS and waterblock (5930K)


If that's the soldered chip then I highly doubt you will see much deference in thermals unless you lap both the cpu IHS and the waterblock so they're perfectly flat otherwise you're best using normal thermal compound.


----------



## tistou77

Thanks for your feedback


----------



## dante`afk

I'm getting the condactonaut tomorrow, how's the best way to apply it on my cpu and gpu, justa little blog in the middle of the heatsink? I guess I'm on copper which should be save right? h90 and h115i here.


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> I'm getting the condactonaut tomorrow, how's the best way to apply it on my cpu and gpu, justa little blog in the middle of the heatsink? I guess I'm on copper which should be save right? h90 and h115i here.


It won't do anything with just a little dot. You need to smear it forcefully with the included swab in order for it to spread.


----------



## Kana Chan

You have to paint it on both sides as thin as possible with a brush ( they give you one ).


----------



## dante`afk

thanks, would you recommend doing it also on the GPU DIE ? i was thinking taping the area around the DIE with eletrical tape so the metal doesnt get squeezed on it after I put the heatsink back on.

anything else I need to take care of ? when doing it on the cpu?


----------



## fat4l

I put it on my GTX 1080. Load vs idle temp = 5C lol. 33-34C during load rofl








Go for it.
I put normal paste around the die to prevent liquid metal going somewhere. I also used liquid tape on those capacitors/resistors around the die.

I also use liquid metal on my Asus Ares 3(295X2). 15C drop. Go for it!


----------



## dante`afk

While the temps initially the first couple of days were great, they wore off over time and got much higher. After removing the AiO block again and checking the surface again, all looked good, there was a nice even film over the heatsink and DIE of the LM.

Overall normal paste is better imo, temperature wise.

I was able to remove the LM with 99% Isopropyl from the DIE, but not from the AiO (copper)block, even after thorough rubbing, there is a non-removable stain on it now.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dante`afk*
> 
> While the temps initially the first couple of days were great, they wore off over time and got much higher. After removing the AiO block again and checking the surface again, all looked good, there was a nice even film over the heatsink and DIE of the LM.
> 
> Overall normal paste is better imo, temperature wise.
> 
> I was able to remove the LM with 99% Isopropyl from the DIE, but not from the AiO (copper)block, even after thorough rubbing, there is a non-removable stain on it now.


it sits in the pores on copper blocks, it's normal. If your temps changed then there was something to do with your mount, I run a naked i5 with CLU and temps have not changed at all. Going to use CLU on my golden 970 next.


----------



## iamwardicus

I know the instructions dictate both on the CPU & the Heatsink base, but is it truly required? I would think that it might actually increase the chances of getting bubbles trapped when mounting.
(I'm planning ahead for my next build - considering the liquid metal TIM since I'm not watercooling any more. Figure I may as well take advantage of any temp drop with my SB-E)


----------



## Daniel926

NT-H1 Vs Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut
Test: 10 min in prime95

Before:



After :


----------



## tistou77

Thanks

In aircooling ?


----------



## mouacyk

3630qm is a mobile CPU, so it most certainly has to be air.


----------



## tistou77

Okay thanks, a test with the desktop CPU will be better


----------



## sagael

160/5000
Could you apply liquid metal on a mobile processor like the amd a10 5750m without complications? Would it have to be both on the dide and between the heatsink and the ihs?


----------



## kwinz

My question is: is it safe to use Conductonaut on a laptop that will sometimes be transported/shipped in Winter?
So the laptop might go down to 0-5 C. I have read that Conductonaut is for 10C+ operation only. But what about storage?
Could it become solid and splitter off the CPU potentially causing short circuits on the laptop mainboard later?


----------



## dmo580

Anyone compare between Coollab Liquid Ultra and Conductonaut? I hear Conductonaut is a lot more runny


----------



## p2im0

From vi
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmo580*
> 
> Anyone compare between Coollab Liquid Ultra and Conductonaut? I hear Conductonaut is a lot more runny


From videos I've watched they look very similar during application. Some say Liquid Ultra goes on easier. I just de-lidded my CPU and used conductonaut and it was pretty easy to work with. Saw average temp drop of 35C (OC to 4.8GHz) on my Skylake 6700k. Definitely had some bad TIM on that die.


----------



## Camberwell

Quick question - I just bought a very lightly used NZXT X61 AIO cooler, and the previous owner had used Conductonaut on the copper heatsink. He has removed most of it but there is still a large patch where it seems to have reacted with the copper.

I have no experience with liquid metal TIM - can this Conductonaut be completely removed so that I can use my trusty MX-4? Or should I also buy some Conductonaut? Presumably I would still have to clean off the old stuff properly though?

Basically, how can I clean it off? The stuff I usually use (Akasa TIM-clean) does nothing.....thanks!


----------



## p2im0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camberwell*
> 
> Quick question - I just bought a very lightly used NZXT X61 AIO cooler, and the previous owner had used Conductonaut on the copper heatsink. He has removed most of it but there is still a large patch where it seems to have reacted with the copper.
> 
> I have no experience with liquid metal TIM - can this Conductonaut be completely removed so that I can use my trusty MX-4? Or should I also buy some Conductonaut? Presumably I would still have to clean off the old stuff properly though?
> 
> Basically, how can I clean it off? The stuff I usually use (Akasa TIM-clean) does nothing.....thanks!


I had the same experience on the block of my H100i; its a liquid metal and AFAIK there are microscopic bits of the metal that fill the tiny grooves in the copper or bond to the copper itself. I've since cleaned off the conductonaut (as best as possible) and am also using MX-4 between my CPU IHS and my water block - works great. I don't expect that the conductonaut residue will in any way compromise the heat transfer of any thermal paste.


----------



## netjack

I'm thinking of doing exactly what you did - delidding my 6700k. That seems like a very extensive temp drop - assuming that's on air? Is your case not very well ventilated?


----------



## Camberwell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p2im0*
> 
> I had the same experience on the block of my H100i; its a liquid metal and AFAIK there are microscopic bits of the metal that fill the tiny grooves in the copper or bond to the copper itself. I've since cleaned off the conductonaut (as best as possible) and am also using MX-4 between my CPU IHS and my water block - works great. I don't expect that the conductonaut residue will in any way compromise the heat transfer of any thermal paste.


Great, thanks very much for that, appreciate it!


----------



## p2im0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netjack*
> 
> I'm thinking of doing exactly what you did - delidding my 6700k. That seems like a very extensive temp drop - assuming that's on air? Is your case not very well ventilated?


Nope, that's on an H100i with the rads acting as intake and ambient of 20-22C. I've had issues with high temp since the first day I got this CPU. I've repasted it well over 10 times, always thinking I had an air pocket, not enough paste, etc, etc and every time ended with the same results of core 2 hitting 80-85C under synthetic testing load (AIDA64, prime95 26.6, etc). I finally did a side-by-side test with a friend - same cooler and CPU and his H100i liquid temp rose much faster than mine - still slow, but it rose measurably faster. So my final thought was a poor connection between IHS and die.

Temp has never limited my performance, this has just been an OCD thing - I can admit it. However after reading this article at HardOCP it made my think that I was applying too much pressure to the CPU and flexing the substrate - who knows. I reduced the pressure a tad and no change.

I've since de-lidded, and used conductonaut on the die, re-lidded with gorilla glue holding the IHS down (24 hours to cure) and I now have my H100i (with washers on the backplate) not fully tightened down. It doesn't wiggle but it's definitely not applying excessive force and my hottest core (core 2) doesn't break 51C under the same tests and my H100i liquid temp rises much more quickly than before.

Is it going to actually make any difference? Not really, but my OCD is a bit more satisfied and I'm now going to try to push my OC just a tad higher.


----------



## netjack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p2im0*
> 
> Nope, that's on an H100i with the rads acting as intake and ambient of 20-22C. I've had issues with high temp since the first day I got this CPU. I've repasted it well over 10 times, always thinking I had an air pocket, not enough paste, etc, etc and every time ended with the same results of core 2 hitting 80-85C under synthetic testing load (AIDA64, prime95 26.6, etc). I finally did a side-by-side test with a friend - same cooler and CPU and his H100i liquid temp rose much faster than mine - still slow, but it rose measurably faster. So my final thought was a poor connection between IHS and die.
> 
> Temp has never limited my performance, this has just been an OCD thing - I can admit it. However after reading this article at HardOCP it made my think that I was applying too much pressure to the CPU and flexing the substrate - who knows. I reduced the pressure a tad and no change.
> 
> I've since de-lidded, and used conductonaut on the die, re-lidded with gorilla glue holding the IHS down (24 hours to cure) and I now have my H100i (with washers on the backplate) not fully tightened down. It doesn't wiggle but it's definitely not applying excessive force and my hottest core (core 2) doesn't break 51C under the same tests and my H100i liquid temp rises much more quickly than before.
> 
> Is it going to actually make any difference? Not really, but my OCD is a bit more satisfied and I'm now going to try to push my OC just a tad higher.


Wow thanks for the detailed response. I'm going baby steps. I'm first switching to WC AIO to see what the temps are and then will see if i'm Voltage or Temp limited and perhaps go delid. I've already ordered the conductonaut so either way it's getting used.


----------



## Puck

Hmm, wonder why this stuff rates a recommended temp range of 10c - 140c while CLP/CLU is fine down to 0 and below? CLP/CLU becomes a solid at around 8c, and performance is amazing in that range since it is in essence fused together. Could the increased indium content of the Conductonaut cause it to contract more then CLP/CLU does under 8c and cause issues???


----------



## Overfiend1981

There is an error on in the spec for Liquid pro. It's acutally 80w/mk not 32.6 as quoted.

Liquid Pro was always better than Liquid Ultra - liquid ultra was released because of difficulty in applying liquid pro (it's much harder to apply lpro than ultra) but the conductivity is much less on ultra.


----------



## DyndaS

How many delids can you do with 1g of conductonaut?


----------



## diggiddi

So no comparo's to Indigo Xtreme still?


----------



## asdkj1740

i have few questions:
can this last for ~3 years once without temp increase?
is it easy to remove?


----------



## xenolith

yes
no
hydrochloric acid (like Lysol toilet bowl cleaner) will help clean it off.


----------



## asdkj1740

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenolith*
> 
> yes
> no
> hydrochloric acid (like Lysol toilet bowl cleaner) will help clean it off.


i am also googling liquid metal removal video/discussion/guide as it seems to be difficult to remove. a youtube video shows that liquid metal will dry out and hard to remove


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> i am also googling liquid metal removal video/discussion/guide as it seems to be difficult to remove. a youtube video shows that liquid metal will dry out and hard to remove


Run Prime 95 for awhile before you remove, get max temps on the CPU, hotter it gets more liquid it become. Easy to remove after that if your quick enough


----------



## xenolith

It doesn't necessarily "dry out". like all metals, it becomes a solid at lower temperatures. As long as you keep it at room temps or higher, it should never solidify.


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xenolith*
> 
> It doesn't necessarily "dry out". like all metals, it becomes a solid at lower temperatures. As long as you keep it at room temps or higher, it should never solidify.


Then why does CLU solidify and dry out after 1 year+ as seen in videos, user reports? :/
I'm looking into liquid metals mainly from the point of view of longevity and ability to work for a long time say 5 years without the need to be replaced.
Did Grizzly solve the liquid metal problems and it doesn't dry out like other liquid metals? Even regular pastes dry out but they are far easier to work and replace and usually last about forever.

It seems easier to apply, more liquid than CLU/CLP from user reports but does it last much longer?
How much better temp. drop is it compared to GC Extreme when used between die and heat spreader of a CPU or die and heat sink of GPU?


----------



## peter2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> Then why does CLU solidify and dry out after 1 year+ as seen in videos, user reports? :/
> I'm looking into liquid metals mainly from the point of view of longevity and ability to work for a long time say 5 years without the need to be replaced.
> Did Grizzly solve the liquid metal problems and it doesn't dry out like other liquid metals? Even regular pastes dry out but they are far easier to work and replace and usually last about forever.
> 
> It seems easier to apply, more liquid than CLU/CLP from user reports but does it last much longer?
> How much better temp. drop is it compared to GC Extreme when used between die and heat spreader of a CPU or die and heat sink of GPU?


not have used the grizzly yet
my Phobya Liquid metal hardens a bit just like the cool labority stuff

it's not drying out, the liquid metal is hardening out (there is no evaporation I'm sure, boiling point of gallium is 2400°C)

I'd say it's the reaction with copper
the liquid metal "pastes" all contain the same main ingredient (gallium, I'm sure there is a mix with something else; there is a mix with indium; melting point is -19°C; gallium alone is 32°C melting point, seems too high by itself )

you want to make sure
then get a cooler with a Nickel plated surface
under the IHS the stuff stays liquid, and I have looked after a few months (IHS is Nickel plated, and the DIE doesn't react with it)

btw
on the hardening

















it's also not an issue when it hardens out
*except* if you put force on the cooler after it hardened out
obviously the bonding would be broken
which is in line with what I have seen from users complaining about jumps in temp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> i am also googling liquid metal removal video/discussion/guide as it seems to be difficult to remove. a youtube video shows that liquid metal will dry out and hard to remove


it's best to remove it with a paper towel
and then use a scrubbing pad(like steel wool) like the liquid pro/ultra comes with

but if you should drop a bit of fresh stuff an try to remove it, good luck (had best results in trying to lift it up and smear the rest, and removing the stain with some alcohol and paper towels)









after 3 months of use
everything looking not shiny was hardened
scrubbing leaves a stain, which should not penalize temps








but for a pristine condition one needs to lap

or use a Nickel plated cooler


----------



## asdkj1740

after applying the liquid metal, if i have to, let say a year after, remove the cooler from the pcb, do i need to clean the liquid metal applied and reapply it so as to keep the temp at lowest possible just like before?
or if i dont clean it and leave it there then i remount the cooler directly, is there any influence to the temp//how likely the temp will go up dramatically???

many thanks


----------



## JackCY

Well gallium reacts with about any metal and they add indium and tin to keep it liquid as when it does react it will dry out but not the "evaporation" sense you may know from water but by combining with other metals it solidifies. That's why it can't be used especially with aluminum heatsinks and it will eat that stuff real fast and outright destroy it, making it brittle. Pure copper it will react too just not as aggressive but that is the dry out in long term I found reported with CLU. I bet it's the same for all liquid metals, after all they all use the same metals in the mixture (galinstan) and there is not much else to choose from, there are only so few elements in the periodic table suitable and all they do is vary the % of each metal.

So as long as it's nickel plated it should be fine, fineish to use these galinstan pastes from what I found as it's close to galinstan's potential and will combine way slower than copper. Copper is not safe and aluminium as hell not








Quote:


> Notable exceptions of incompatible metals include aluminum, which is readily attacked at room temperature, and copper, which is attacked over long times at elevated 100 °C temperatures.


etc.

---

asdkj1740: depends on your materials and how bad the corrosion/reaction was after all the time, usually you should be fine to just reattach if there was no reaction or simply add a tiny little and keep on going, if it's all messed up and dried and the surfaces destroyed then there was a clear reaction you should clean it off and never use galinstan pastes on it again or even have to replace the cooler etc. altogether but I'm not sure how bad it gets with copper reaction, aluminium gets destroyed completely the internal structure of it falls apart.
As far as cleaning it off, good luck lol, usually you have to machine the heatsink surface if it was pure copper. Keep in mind most copper products are treated and not pure copper surface so it may not react or just take longer to "eat" through.


----------



## peter2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdkj1740*
> 
> after applying the liquid metal, if i have to, let say a year after, remove the cooler from the pcb, do i need to clean the liquid metal applied and reapply it so as to keep the temp at lowest possible just like before?
> or if i dont clean it and leave it there then i remount the cooler directly, is there any influence to the temp//how likely the temp will go up dramatically???
> 
> many thanks


you'll have to clean it

there's no way you're making good even contact otherwise

it leaves a stain on copper, which doesn't affect the temps

however one could lap the cooler, but you strike me as someone who has less experience
so lapping I wouldn't recommend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackCY*
> 
> As far as cleaning it off, good luck lol, usually you have to machine the heatsink surface


really no reason to use big machines or milling

people have been lapping IHS from Intel by hand with sandpaper for, err 10 years or so?
same principal
lapping a heatsink works the same

you can also just scratch it off with some steel wool (that's what cool labority ships it's paste with)

edit:
also more traditional pastes can suffer from pump out
so they are not "long term" save, while of course easier to replace

Noctua NT-H1 and IC Diamond come to mind with pump out
the liquid metal ones have really great adhesion and cohesion


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peter2k*
> 
> you'll have to clean it
> 
> there's no way you're making good even contact otherwise
> 
> it leaves a stain on copper, which doesn't affect the temps
> 
> however one could lap the cooler, but you strike me as someone who has less experience
> so lapping I wouldn't recommend
> really no reason to use big machines or milling
> 
> people have been lapping IHS from Intel by hand with sandpaper for, err 10 years or so?
> same principal
> lapping a heatsink works the same
> 
> you can also just scratch it off with some steel wool (that's what cool labority ships it's paste with)
> 
> edit:
> also more traditional pastes can suffer from pump out
> so they are not "long term" save, while of course easier to replace
> 
> Noctua NT-H1 and IC Diamond come to mind with pump out
> the liquid metal ones have really great adhesion and cohesion


actually ic diamond is a go-to paste for avoiding pump out with badly contacting heatsink

it's absolute crap as a thermal paste when your heatsink is completely flat though


----------



## peter2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> actually ic diamond is a go-to paste for avoiding pump out with badly contacting heatsink
> 
> it's absolute crap as a thermal paste when your heatsink is completely flat though


thats good to know
especially since the 7th generation Intel's seem to have a quite even IHS

if I had to redo my paste again I would use grizzly hydronaut me thinks
but the Diamond is one of those more known, like the noctua


----------



## JackCY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peter2k*
> 
> you'll have to clean it
> 
> there's no way you're making good even contact otherwise
> 
> it leaves a stain on copper, which doesn't affect the temps
> 
> however one could lap the cooler, but you strike me as someone who has less experience
> so lapping I wouldn't recommend
> really no reason to use big machines or milling
> 
> people have been lapping IHS from Intel by hand with sandpaper for, err 10 years or so?
> same principal
> lapping a heatsink works the same
> 
> you can also just scratch it off with some steel wool (that's what cool labority ships it's paste with)


That's still machining it off by me, mechanical removal by machining the surface and reducing it's material. Be it scratching, polishing, sanding, ... Same thing really it's mechanically removing bits off of the surface.
Quote:


> edit:
> also more traditional pastes can suffer from pump out
> so they are not "long term" save, while of course easier to replace
> 
> Noctua NT-H1 and IC Diamond come to mind with pump out
> the liquid metal ones have really great adhesion and cohesion


Yeah that's why the stock pastes are such thick crap, so they don't pump out, instead they like to dry out, hell sometimes they already sell it dry on GPUs etc.
I think they are all pretty much the same. ICD... having issues I wouldn't even buy it but because again it's so thick it will not pump out so easily.


----------



## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> actually ic diamond is a go-to paste for avoiding pump out with badly contacting heatsink
> 
> it's absolute crap as a thermal paste when your heatsink is completely flat though


Flat, with perfect contact is preferred for grizzly paste.

The porblem with intel ihs is that they're designed to never directly touch the die iirc


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## czin125

https://ocaholic.ch/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=10943

After delid is a 29C drop with Conductonaut ( test was with 5ghz Core @ 1.408v and 5ghz NB frequency + 3600mhz 17-18-18-36 1T
-Cooling: Raijinteck Triton 3x120 AiO
-TIM: Thermal Grizzly Konductonaut between IHS and AiO

Conductonaut might lower the temperatures a little more than CLU on higher heat loads.

CLU was 3C lower than NT-H1 at 4.4ghz 1.25v and 4C lower at 4.8ghz 1.35v
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nI64A9hca1g#t=2m20s


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## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> https://ocaholic.ch/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?post_id=10943
> 
> After delid is a 29C drop with Conductonaut ( test was with 5ghz Core @ 1.408v and 5ghz NB frequency + 3600mhz 17-18-18-36 1T
> -Cooling: Raijinteck Triton 3x120 AiO
> -TIM: Thermal Grizzly Konductonaut between IHS and AiO
> 
> Conductonaut might lower the temperatures a little more than CLU on higher heat loads.
> 
> CLU was 3C lower than NT-H1 at 4.4ghz 1.25v and 4C lower at 4.8ghz 1.35v
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nI64A9hca1g#t=2m20s


my 7820HK is delidded in my laptop, copper contact so I put on konductonaut as well, loweed my temps 10 celsius over stock paste lol. stuff is amazing.


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## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> my 7820HK is delidded in my laptop, copper contact so I put on konductonaut as well, loweed my temps 10 celsius over stock paste lol. stuff is amazing.


alienware, clevo, msi?


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## BehelitOutlaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *czin125*
> 
> Thermal Grizzly Konductonaut between IHS and AiO


I just tried today and it got 5c cooler on idle and I think something between 7 and 10c on load ( have to do more testing) . I previously used Kryonaut


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## opt33

my 4790k is almost 3 years old now with CLP/delidded and temps were same (within testing error) as when first delidded. I have no doubt the ihs would be stained with gallium but temps havent worsened over time.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TK421*
> 
> alienware, clevo, msi?


clevo with custom PREMA bios


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## TK421

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> clevo with custom PREMA bios


i'd guess hidevolution then, or lpc digital


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## AstroSky

doing this with a custom water loop with ryzen and gtx 1080 ti installed would help temps? both blocks are copper


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## peter2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> doing this with a custom water loop with ryzen and gtx 1080 ti installed would help temps? both blocks are copper


not as much as you think

it's more to do with mounting pressure, good fit and using the right amount of paste

for instance if you're mounting is already very good (to be expected with a custom solution) on the GPU then maybe you can squeeze out an additional degree

I'd say stick with one of the best "normal" TIM's
like Grizzly Hydronaut

with a loop you want to do some maintenance sometime down the line

removing the blocks to clean them is quite the hassle (with copper based coolers)
would have to scrub the hardened stuff off
maybe lapp if you want prestine condition

the liquid metal pastes all react a bit with copper
if they were Nickel plated it wouldn't matter that much

on a GPU there is a lot of stuff in the way
a single drop going somewhere it doesn't belong can be a b*tch to clean up (and you have to be thorough since it's conducting)


----------



## opt33

agree with above, the only place liquid metal benefits outweigh risks (imo) is between ihs and die, like when intel goes cheap and uses paste instead of solder.

Ryzen has solder between IHS and die, so no need for liquid metal. between ihs and cooling block, much more surface area so minimal temp improvements for risk. And gpus, would never use liquid metal anywhere near them, again minimal benefit for the risk.

Custom water loop great, but just use good paste tim.


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## AstroSky

but plasti dipping the gpu around the area would protect it right? i have tons of black plasti dip that just peels off no mess


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## AstroSky

and its waterproof. electrical proof. pretty much like electrical tape in a can.


----------



## peter2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> and its waterproof. electrical proof. pretty much like electrical tape in a can.


that would work

if you're delidding and have a CPU with a lot of stuff under the IHS (skylake-x) then using liquid electrical tape is recommended to protect all the small nubs

edit:
just wanted to say as a whole

it does something temp wise, but not a lot usually if the contact is already very good (concave IHS is a bad contact for instance)
but even in experience hands
cleaning up if you ever remove it is a hassle

far from impossible, but a hassle


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## AstroSky

one more question. My gpu "was" the gtx 1080 ti hyrbid untill i modded the aio waterblock into a custom one. Worked well. it cools cooler now that its spliced into my copper cpu loop. but the cooler on hybrid has a copper shim to cool the area around it too with heat pads underneath. the copper **** is cooled by the aio waterblock. It has to have themal paste between that too. I would assume applying Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut to it and the gpu dye would result is better temps over all. heck 3c is good in my books. i just want the best temps i can get with out spending that much.


----------



## peter2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstroSky*
> 
> one more question. My gpu "was" the gtx 1080 ti hyrbid untill i modded the aio waterblock into a custom one. Worked well. it cools cooler now that its spliced into my copper cpu loop. but the cooler on hybrid has a copper shim to cool the area around it too with heat pads underneath. the copper **** is cooled by the aio waterblock. It has to have themal paste between that too. I would assume applying Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut to it and the gpu dye would result is better temps over all. heck 3c is good in my books. i just want the best temps i can get with out spending that much.


if you're chasing those last few degrees
then yes it would do a little
gotta be careful where and how you apply it
still adhesion and cohesion of liquid metal is quite good









seems like one could build a tower out of it if one has enough patience and paste

in my experience it's not running off or away, even if a bit squeezes out
but less is always better than more


----------



## bmgjet

Just did a Conductonaut install on my PC to replace my 1 year old AS5 paste.
Quite easy to apply. I left my case standing up and just slid the water block back while applying.
Id apply a little dot to the swap that came with it. Then rub that to the IHS and Block.

So far after 3 hours stress test max temp is 8C less vs running the stress test for 20mins before removing old paste.


----------



## sisay

You also spread the paste on the heat sink or just on the cpu?


----------



## Kana Chan

https://youtu.be/lxlNBElgssY if you need to remove it
apply a thin layer on both sides


----------



## Yetyhunter

Is it ok if I dellid a 8700k and replace the intel TIM with this and apply it between the cpu and the cooler too ?


----------



## steveting99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> Is it ok if I dellid a 8700k and replace the intel TIM with this and apply it between the cpu and the cooler too ?


It would be a good replacement over the thermal paste provided by Intel. However, between the IHS and cooler, some caution is needed as the liquid metal may leak through and drip onto the motherboard. Because of its high conductivity, it may short out components on the motherboard. Suggest to look at a non-conductive thermal paste between the IHS and cooler. Example is the KRYONAUT.


----------



## Yetyhunter

Is there a way to protect the motherboard or prevent it from leaking on to it ?


----------



## steveting99

Nail polish seems to be a good way. But you'll have to take care and ensure all exposed components on the motherboard are covered with the nail polish.


----------



## Asus11

Thermal Grizzly paste or liquid metal, most overrated thing

great marketing though.


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> Thermal Grizzly paste or liquid metal, most overrated thing
> 
> great marketing though.


Mine did exactly as advertised, temps in my laptop dropped dramaticly, We are talking a nearly overheating 980m to not a problem and easily able to overclock compared to my repeated applications of IC diamond, The downside is when I was at 70+C it decided it didn't want to stay where it was and literally leaked off the gpu die (Nothing shorted thankfully) But that was the biggest temp spike I ever saw in my life..

70 70 70 72 73 74 94 98 99 99 99


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> Mine did exactly as advertised, temps in my laptop dropped dramaticly, We are talking a nearly overheating 980m to not a problem and easily able to overclock compared to my repeated applications of IC diamond, The downside is when I was at 70+C it decided it didn't want to stay where it was and literally leaked off the gpu die (Nothing shorted thankfully) But that was the biggest temp spike I ever saw in my life..
> 
> 70 70 70 72 73 74 94 98 99 99 99


comparing apples to apples its overrated, liquid vs paste ofc you will see a big difference, but liquid vs liquid nop also paste vs paste most of reviews ive seen they used generic paste vs it

ive had it myself and I also vouch its overrated, its just the marketing is really good.. put a well known overclocker behind it and everyone will jump on it, get (OCUK) to claim its the best thing since sliced bread also have reviews vs genric stuff and everyone goes wild. for example https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/362974-thermal-grizzly-kryonaut-the-ultimate-thermal-paste-you-can-actually-buy-it-now-d/

in my experience I seen higher temps







more uniform but still.. higher temps.

my personal fav is cooler master mastergel nano then gelid, I have thermal grizzly but only keep as back up, for liquid CLU


----------



## czin125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Quite easy to apply. I left my case standing up and just slid the water block back while applying. Id apply a little dot to the swap that came with it. Then rub that to the IHS and Block. So far after 3 hours stress test max temp is 8C less vs running the stress test for 20mins before removing old paste.[/QUOTE]
> That seems very nice on a soldered/delidded cpu.


----------



## Yetyhunter

How does liquid metal react to regular thermal paste ? For example, would it be possible to apply regular TIM on the edge of the CPU surrounding the liquid metal in the middle and keep it from leaking, creating like some kind of barrier.


----------



## opt33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yetyhunter*
> 
> How does liquid metal react to regular thermal paste ? For example, would it be possible to apply regular TIM on the edge of the CPU surrounding the liquid metal in the middle and keep it from leaking, creating like some kind of barrier.


Using liquid metal between die and IHS is low risk and has significant benefit, ie 20C lower temps. Using liquid metal between IHS and cooling block there is a higher risk of dripping liquid metal where you dont want it, and typically only ~2-3C improvement in temps, since the surface area is much larger and user can apply paste thin at tim2 interface.

The only advice I would give is dont use it at tim2. But if using it at tim2, use a very thin layer. I wouldnt mix as you might get an unwanted reaction and/or the increased bulk is more likely to make it run where you dont want it, even though you meant it as a barrier.


----------



## Astral85

Does anyone know how how this compares to Hydronaut? Hydronaut is the only Thermal Grizzly I can get hold of and what to do my 1080 Ti FTW3 again (air cooler)... Would Hydronaut be suitable? I heard this was aimed more at water cooling...


----------



## panosxidis

Hello guys i have one question! how much is 1gr for grizzly conductonaut?6 cards?


----------



## richiec77

panosxidis said:


> Hello guys i have one question! how much is 1gr for grizzly conductonaut?6 cards?


Highly doubt that much for cards. For CPUs...Small Die aka 6700-8700k, it's around 5-7 application with LM at 1g for a tube. Around 4-5 for an LLC SK-X, around 3-4 for an HCC Die SK-X.

Not sure offhand what the GPU Die sizes are like for LM as I've never tried it.


----------

