# Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus/EVO Club



## shadow19935

emm, pics? maby a review since its a club?


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## Shadowclock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *n00biE5200* 
support for CM Hyper 212+
Ask questions
post comments

(I'm new at this)

Check out the Prolimatech Club for ideas on how your 1st post should look.

Do you have the Hyper 212+? You don't have it listed in your sig rig.


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## calebchosen

I have one, it would be cool to create a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus Club
go for it n00biE5200!


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## n00biE5200

just bought it to day

Pros
-looks awesome
-Simple Install*
-2x120x120 fan support
-Huge
Cons
-Figuring out how to install
-Huge

*instructions are bad but once i figured it out it was easy
(Updated my sig rig)


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## calebchosen

itÂ´s a great cooler, especially if you get the extra fan.


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## n00biE5200

how does a 154 cfm delta fan sound?
Later ill test it with that fan on full
(the pins are funny so its all or nothing)


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## Shadowclock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *n00biE5200* 
just bought it to day

Pros
-looks awesome
-Simple Install*
-2x120x120 fan support
-Huge
Cons
-Figuring out how to install
-Huge

*instructions are bad but once i figured it out it was easy
(Updated my sig rig)

LOL you think the 212+ is huge? Look at the Mugen 2 or the new NH-D14, now those are huge. Come on now...clean up that 1st post if your going to make it a club


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## n00biE5200

#1 this is my first heatsink i bought and it almost touches the 'door' of my case
#2 im working on it
#3 Thanks for the help


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## rpm666

I bought one for $15 at Fry's on Sunday.


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## n00biE5200

Post Pics Of your System and ill add you under "Members" on OP

Quote:


Originally Posted by *calebchosen* 
4.1 Mhz

Is that a mistype in on you sig rig?


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## Shadowclock

Noobie5200, you need to edit your posts and not make double/triple/quadruple posts on your own. It's bad posting etiquette and generally frowned upon.

In reference to Calebs clock...that's not unusual for the i7 860 to hit so I am sure it isn't a mistype.

Great job starting the Members section.


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## n00biE5200

4.1 *Mhz*


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## Shadowclock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *n00biE5200* 
Can a moderator remove most of the previous posts? Please if yes take this one 2

4.1 *Mhz*

Heh, too right...Mhz would be a mistype now wouldn't it. Good catch...overlooked it









+rep for getting me...was like an optical illusion there.


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## n00biE5200

yeh rep thanks


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## Shadowclock

Quote:


Originally Posted by *n00biE5200* 
yeh rep thanks
where grunion? to delete

Grunion actually runs a different section. The moderators for each section can be found at the very bottom right. Go back to the Air Cooling section and you will see the list of moderators there.


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## headcase9

Here's mine


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## n00biE5200

headcase9 You have been added


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## _Magic

ive had mine for about 2 months. works like a charm


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## mav2000

A review for u guys....done by ME...lol

http://www.techreaction.net/2009/09/...-short-review/


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## MeatloafontheRadio

Pic from when I was building it.

What is everyone's temps on this beast?


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## xDuBz

im just waiting for my cpu cooler to arrive ill be joining this club soooooooooon!


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## draknir

Heres mine, hiding behind the HD5870


















My temps on an i7 860 are 25c idle, 52c load (ambient 22c)


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## n00biE5200

My temps are:
Idle=32*c
5+ IntelBurnTest Loops= 66*c

I added
-draknir
-xDuBz
-MeatloafontheRadio

Thanks mav2000 i will add it to the review section


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## tofunater

Just bought one of these for my buddy because he was on a strict budget. I'll take a good look at it and see how good it is


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## mikhail00

count me in.. Coolermaster Hyper 212+ user/owner here!..










i changed the stock fan of the heatsink to 2pcs of Coolermaster R4-L2R-20CK-GP 120mm blue LED fans.. then i mounted the stock fan of the 212plus on the rear as an exhaust fan running at max speed (2200+rpm)..

p.s. sorry if the picture is grainy.. i dont have a good camera right now.. i just used the camera on my phone.. im spending more on my PC than a camera..


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## LIU_ZOMG

i was thinking of getting this cooler - but then i saw the tuniq tower selling somewhere for cheaper so i bought it instead!

The cm hyper 212 is quite a beast though. I had to upgrade my case just to accommodate for it... and then i got the tuniq instead =_=

Very nice cooler - once you put your r4s on it or your scythes, this cooler will be up there with all the expensive coolers =]


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## strezz

just got one today, will be posting pics soon.


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## strezz

Here's mine


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## Hennessy

Can you get a stable i5 750 @ 4ghz with this cooler? Cuz im thinkin of buying it with that in mind


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## strezz

@Hennesy

not sure, but its a mid-range cooler. Its probably the best cooler you can get for the price range $30-$35. to give you a better idea, my temps before were 32c-55c on stock with this cooler 23c-40c


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## Hennessy

Ok thanks. ill probably wait for some new budget 1156


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## Volvo

Hey, hey. How about the Hyper TX3? I know it's not a 212/212+, I wanted to buy one of those but that meant losing my side fan. So I got a Hyper TX3.
Can I join, or hope that all Hyper 212, Hyper TX3 and Hyper 101 users unite under 1 thread? Different cooler sizes (120, 92, 80 respectively) but basically the same family, right?


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## Satans_Hell

Got the 212+ myself in my sig rig.

Brilliant cooler for the money and does the job nicely!

Does anyone else think the base is a tad sharp in places and not exactly flat?


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## Shooter116

For those of you running AMD setups & this cooler.. When you mount it vertically with the fan blowing toward the back of the case, can you install/remove ram from all of the slots? In the pictures posted so far, I couldn't get a good enough look at it.


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## gant2k1

question, my hyper 212 makes loud noise only till the fan warms up then it goes away does anyone elses do this??!??!?


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## strezz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gant2k1* 
question, my hyper 212 makes loud noise only till the fan warms up then it goes away does anyone elses do this??!??!?










Nope never had that problem, maybe you can check if everything is solid and properly on or maybe if possible try a different fan and see if that makes noise if not then the culprit is the fan..hope this helps.


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## Shooter116

I'm about to buy this cooler.. the price is way too appealing and mounting it to blow toward the rear case fan is a BIG plus.

For those of you running push/pull, did it benefit you at all in comparison to running just one fan? And how much better are the CM R4 2000RPM fans than the stock fan?


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## Turgin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *calebchosen* 
itÂ´s a great cooler, especially if you get the extra fan.

What fans are you using caleb? I have an i7 860 with the 212+ and my temps suck. Since the initial install I've learned about the new method of applying TIM on HDT type coolers and I used the old single dot in the middle of the CPU method so I figure that may be part of my problem.

I'm using the stock fan that came with the 212+ and this CM fan.

Planning to do a reseat with MX-3 (used AS5 at first) and was thinking of getting some Scythe S-Flex G's to replace the two CM fans. Maybe even shroud the push fan.

Thanks.


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## JDMfanatic

This is a budget cooler so don't expect great temps with a CPU like the i7-860. This thing keeps my i5-750 under 69 degrees max load Intel Burn Testing nowadays so I'm quite content.


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## Turgin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JDMfanatic* 
This is a budget cooler so don't expect great temps with a CPU like the i7-860. This thing keeps my i5-750 under 69 degrees max load Intel Burn Testing nowadays so I'm quite content.

I know you get what you pay for...







I don't expect miracles, but I'd like to see sub 80C (full load) at around 3.8Ghz. I don't think that's unreasonable if I get the TIM on correctly and improve the airflow. I've got a prioritized list of upgrades and a CPU cooler upgrade to either Megahalems or H50 is on there after a Corsair 750HX and new memory, but ideally I'd like to get all I can out of the 212+ for now by upgrading the fans to what I would use later on a better cooler if that makes sense.


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## YangerD

Those running this on an AMD chip, what kind of temps are you getting? I'm thinking of getting this to replace a stock AMD heatsink. Whats the noise level like?


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## NicksTricks007

Anyone here have their 212+ lapped? I was just wondering because it seems to me like the groves between the heatpipes and plate would cause air pockets. I thought of maybe trying to spread TIM on the heatsink first to fill the gaps in, then removing the extra with a credit card, then applying the normal "rice" sized amount to the CPU. Any suggestions?


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## jeesan485

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NicksTricks007* 
Anyone here have their 212+ lapped? I was just wondering because it seems to me like the groves between the heatpipes and plate would cause air pockets. I thought of maybe trying to spread TIM on the heatsink first to fill the gaps in, then removing the extra with a credit card, then applying the normal "rice" sized amount to the CPU. Any suggestions?

Wow,I didn't lap but i did the same thing you said. It actually dropped my temp. Instead of credit card, i used blade. Once i get tempest evo and put two CM R4 fans(push/pull) I'm sure temp will drop even more.


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## MM-K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *NicksTricks007* 
Anyone here have their 212+ lapped? I was just wondering because it seems to me like the groves between the heatpipes and plate would cause air pockets. I thought of maybe trying to spread TIM on the heatsink first to fill the gaps in, then removing the extra with a credit card, then applying the normal "rice" sized amount to the CPU. Any suggestions?

You are right. You are supposed to do that with HDT coolers, fill in the gaps. On mine I run three small lines (approx 5-7mm long and centered) down the aluminum part that separates the pipes. Works well that way.

EDIT: "small lines" = thermal paste


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## YangerD

How I mounted my Hyper 212+ was add TIM on all of the groves so that it was flat. Then added TIM on the CPU the normal way.


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## strezz

for testing purposes i used the TIM that came with the cooler, i spread it out with a card..worked great..ambient temp 20c x3 720be 3.4ghz @ 1.45v never passes 40c

Ill try to put on mx-3 on it and see if there's any difference with the temp.

i'll also try to test temps with just the fan it came with in a push system and again on a push/pull system with stock fan and a deep cool 120mm 1700rpm fan


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## RallyMaster

Looks like I'll be joining in this club soon because I just ordered one from Amazon. Should get here by Wednesday. It's been a long time since I last bought a heatsink (over a year).


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## YangerD

Guys, we should make a club banner and possibly a spreadsheet at the OP to show temps at idle and load. Just a thought.


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## namurt

count me "in da club"

btw, here's a great guide for applying TIM to HDT coolers. this is what i followed when i installed my hyper 212+. as others have mentioned, i too filled the gaps between the heatpipes and then used a credit card to scrape off all excess before applying the TIM as outlined in this guide.

guide: http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5


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## strezz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YangerD* 
Guys, we should make a club banner and possibly a spreadsheet at the OP to show temps at idle and load. Just a thought.

Im guessing OP hasnt been online for sometime now and has completely forgot about this thread.

Should we vote on creating a new one and asking a mod to make it official?

Just vote by saying "yes" - if you want to start a new thread and "no" lets stick to this thread and pray OP will check this out


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## MM-K

Quote:


Originally Posted by *strezz* 
Im guessing OP hasnt been online for sometime now and has completely forgot about this thread.

Should we vote on creating a new one and asking a mod to make it official?

Just vote by saying "yes" - if you want to start a new thread and "no" lets stick to this thread and pray OP will check this out

YES

Make a new one.


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## YangerD

Yes go ahead. I wouldn't mind keeping the thread updated with spreadsheets, member lists, etc. But I'll need help making a sig banner


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## strezz

looks like we have 2 votes which is better than none..lol..

One question guys..who will make the thread?


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## RallyMaster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *namurt* 
count me "in da club"

btw, here's a great guide for applying TIM to HDT coolers. this is what i followed when i installed my hyper 212+. as others have mentioned, i too filled the gaps between the heatpipes and then used a credit card to scrape off all excess before applying the TIM as outlined in this guide.

guide: http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

Ah thanks. That'll be really helpful because it's going to be my first HDT sink.

You guys could probably just PM the OP to get him to check....


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## KipH

I would give him a few days. and I will join









Here is a review I found just now by accident








cooler master hyper 212 plus


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## Iggy0828

I am leaning towards purchasing this cooler, but before I do I want to make sure that it will fit in my case.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811147153

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks


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## Ha-Nocri

Could join this club very soon. Will do some mild OC-ing to about 3.6GHz and Hyper 212+ should be excellent solution...


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## RallyMaster

Anyone notice that the fan mounting mechanism has changed since the first revision of the cooler? Mine came with a black, plastic bracket that snaps onto the heatsink instead of the metal clips that it originally had. Cooler Master was also nice enough to provide another set of fan mounting brackets so you can run two fans out of the box. Needless to say, I'm going to wait till the weekend to bring my Arctic Cooling ACF12PWM and then mount the heatsink. It's going to be one kick-ass looking assembly, I tell you.


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## jetpuck73

Just got mine in the mail today, going to install when I get home from work.

Just installed it and now my fan on the side will not fit. Is there a smaller fan to put on the side?


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## Ha-Nocri

well, there are slim 120mm fans to be bought...

silent, not moving much air
low noise, decent airflow (golden middle?)
or is this the right one?
loud, moving much air


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## nova_prime

will a hyper 212 plus fit a socket 939?? (asus a8n32-sli to be exact)

some sites list it as compatible while others don't so I'm confused...


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## RallyMaster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nova_prime* 
will a hyper 212 plus fit a socket 939?? (asus a8n32-sli to be exact)

some sites list it as compatible while others don't so I'm confused...

I remember Socket 939's stock mounting only used two screw holes which means no, it won't be compatible unless your motherboard somehow has four screws surrounding the ZIF socket.

As for me, I finally did get the Hyper 212 Plus and while the results weren't as good as I had hoped, I think my recent application of TIM should yield the best results. I did end up going for a Q9550 from a Q6700 though which was probably not the smartest decision but I think selling the Ninja 2 and the Q6700 should even things out soon.


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## test tube

I have one of these now, cooling a 720 BE... Will post temps when it all gets here.


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## Iggy0828

I'm getting ready to order the Hyper 212+ Cooler come Monday, I'd really like to know before I order it if it's going to fit into my case. The case width is 7.48 inches. The height of the 212+ according to CM's website is 158.5mm which converts to 6.24015" Leaving 1.24" for the height of the motherboard, cpu socket and cpu.

I'm also using the Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H mobo. Are there any issues with how it fits on that board?

I really don't want to buy one of these and have to ship it back because it doesn't fit in my case or it won't fit onto my motherboard due to ram location. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks


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## reflex99

I have one of these, keeps my cpu at a chilly 21 degrees


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## test tube

Got a question... I have 1650CFM Yate loons. I replaced the stock fan with one of these and plan to use that fan as a case fan. Are these generally better fans than the stock fan?


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## breakfromyou

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=941721 me having some fun with my trusty spare hyper 212+

http://img.techpowerup.org/100109/i7-test004423.jpg

that too.

chilled air







Hyper 212+ w/SFF21G and an open window on a sub 30f night, along with the window fan on.

btw: chip/board may be for sale! i'll try CL first. if you're interested, PM.

as for the 939 fitting question: yes, it will work. The bracket also has holes for 939/754.


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## nova_prime

thanks for the reply....install it when i get a chance to move all the pc parts to a new case....


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## RallyMaster

Push-pull Yate Loon D12SL-12s are pretty effective. So much quieter than that stock 2000RPM gremlin and better performing as well.


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## nova_prime

Quote:


Originally Posted by *breakfromyou* 
as for the 939 fitting question: yes, it will work. The bracket also has holes for 939/754.

darn...apparently the hyper 212 plus does not fit the A8n32-sli 939 mobo...not sure if anyone was able to get a hyper 212+ to fit a 939 at all...


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## maddy143ded

did you get the cooler?
I too have a US2H mobo and I am thinking of getting this cooler to cool my PII X2 555. it runs @ 36 - 45 currently @stock values. my case is Circle . and iit has 170 mm width. So will it fit in the CM 212+?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iggy0828* 
I'm getting ready to order the Hyper 212+ Cooler come Monday, I'd really like to know before I order it if it's going to fit into my case. The case width is 7.48 inches. The height of the 212+ according to CM's website is 158.5mm which converts to 6.24015" Leaving 1.24" for the height of the motherboard, cpu socket and cpu.

I'm also using the Gigabyte MA785GM-US2H mobo. Are there any issues with how it fits on that board?

I really don't want to buy one of these and have to ship it back because it doesn't fit in my case or it won't fit onto my motherboard due to ram location. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks


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## JH4DC5

love my hyper 212+. just installed it a couple weeks ago and my temps dropped considerably. load temps w/ the stock fan were about 56C (20C ambient) running prime95 small fft overnight. recently upgraded the fans using CM r4 in a push/pull setup. load temps dropped to 49C (20C ambient) on the highest core.

my setup is a core i5-750 @3.2 (upto 3.84 w/ turbo) vcore @1.22v

here's some crappy pics from my phone. enjoy!


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## EazyMango

count me in on this or the new thread..

The cooler rocks with just the one stock fan will be adding another pull fan soon.


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## maddy143ded

Can you try this setup by removing the inner fan?
by seeing the pics it seems to me that you can lower the temps quite a bit more . just try a setup without push/pull. I think that the big blue fan is pulling more then enough cool air but it doesn't have enough room to circulate in there. try it and post the new temps here.
my mobo temps went from 50 = degs to 41c. CPU temps are : core [email protected] 24% load to 48 @ prime95 test. this all are @ 30c ambient.


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## Lee79

Got this today and fitted it with some MX-3. I am not sure if i did it right but I filled in the gaps and put 1 little line on each of the 3 aluminum stips. I get 30c idle and 42c after 13 minutes of OCCT. Room temp is about 25C.


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## JH4DC5

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maddy143ded* 
Can you try this setup by removing the inner fan?
by seeing the pics it seems to me that you can lower the temps quite a bit more . just try a setup without push/pull. I think that the big blue fan is pulling more then enough cool air but it doesn't have enough room to circulate in there. try it and post the new temps here.
my mobo temps went from 50 = degs to 41c. CPU temps are : core [email protected] 24% load to 48 @ prime95 test. this all are @ 30c ambient.

i'll definitely give it a shot with just a push setup. just ordered another hdd so i'll try that setup when i install my hdd.


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## Iggy0828

Quote:


Originally Posted by *maddy143ded* 
did you get the cooler?
I too have a US2H mobo and I am thinking of getting this cooler to cool my PII X2 555. it runs @ 36 - 45 currently @stock values. my case is Circle . and iit has 170 mm width. So will it fit in the CM 212+?

I did get the CM 212+ cooler today. I installed it onto an Asus M4A785-M. It's also a microATX board with pretty much the same layout. I've been told by people who own the Gigabyte board that it fits, just sits over the first two ram slots a little bit, as it does on the Asus board as well. It sits high enough that it shouldn't be a problem unless you're using ram with large heat spreaders.

As far as the size of your case, that will more than likely not hold it. I was told the case I was using (Rosewill Challenger) holds it with very little room left and that one is 7.41" wide. I purchased an Antec 300 as I also wanted extra fans, and it's 8.1" wide and it has about 3/4 of an inch clearance.

So far, I'm VERY pleased with the performance of this cooler. I also purchased the Phenom II x2 555 Black Edition processor and have overclocked it to 4.0 GHz, 1.38 Vcore, and running p95 now for about 20 minutes. It's running fine and the high core temperature is 20C.


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## anon-nick

i have one!


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## mumyoryu

Though it might not be necessary, I went ahead and washer modded my 212+ o_0a








Not sure if it made much of a difference, but it keeps the heatsink very secure. I did notice a 2c drop in temps (56c load down from 58c), but it was probably because my ambient went down abit when testing; 23c (73f) to 21c (70f). I didn't wait for the AS5 to cure either









Just throwin the idea out there. It's probably not necessary for AMD users as it put down plenty enough pressure in stock form when I had my 550, but on a lapped 775 cpu it might do some good.


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## TempestxPR

i just installed the hyper yesterday and i just got 10c drop now idle 34c is that good enough i was wating for more like 28c or something in that range my cpu is not overclock and the vcore is 0.985 at 2.66
and i put this fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-001-_-Product
in the front and the fan it brings with the cooler in the back to pull i upgrade from stock sorry if you didnt understand im from puerto rico


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## jctpm

Here is mine. Can't beat the Hyper 212+ for the money.


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## Ha-Nocri

This club alive? Here's mine Hyper


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## Turgin

I bought the Hyper 212+ when I first purchased my i7 860 and the temps just haven't been what I'd hoped for...until now!









I upgraded my power supply from an Antec NeoPower 650 to an Enermax Infiniti 720 because the measured voltage under load was just over 11VDC on the Antec. I also upgraded the heatsink fans from the Hyper's included fan and a CM R4 to two Scythe SFlex-G fans. Added a fan controller too.

Anyway, I was just hoping for sub to low 80C temps in the 3.6Ghz-3.8Ghz range. But, with the above upgrades and a reseat following the technique for HDT coolers instead of the old rice sized drop in the middle method I'm happy to report a seemingly stable OC of 4Ghz!! I ran Prime95 for 2 hours with no errors, but only have the OCCT graph as proof. HT off which I'm not happy about, but I plan to see how much I have to lower the OC to turn HT on. Also will kick off Prime95 for an overnight run tonight.

Before:
Attachment 143849Attachment 143850

After:
Attachment 143851Attachment 143852Attachment 143854

P.S. Be kind on the cable management.







This case has almost no space behind the motherboard to route cables.


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## RallyMaster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TempestxPR* 
i just installed the hyper yesterday and i just got 10c drop now idle 34c is that good enough i was wating for more like 28c or something in that range my cpu is not overclock and the vcore is 0.985 at 2.66
and i put this fan http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-001-_-Product
in the front and the fan it brings with the cooler in the back to pull i upgrade from stock sorry if you didnt understand im from puerto rico

Idle temperatures really don't mean much. How much did your load temps improve?


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## ai7lcy

Not sure if I should ask here or the main thread for air cooling faq, but anyway here's what I need your opinion on.

At *3.6 GHz*, *1.216V* load temps after 13 hours of Prime (blend test) were ~75 degrees. Is this fine or should the temps be lower ? If it needs mentioning, the heatsink is placed horizontally (parallel to the pci-e card slots). Also, the two Delta fans have helped a lot, but still I am not sure about the temps.

TIM used- CM Thermal Fusion 400.


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## gian84

Add me in!


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## jctpm

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ai7lcy* 
Not sure if I should ask here or the main thread for air cooling faq, but anyway here's what I need your opinion on.

At *3.6 GHz*, *1.216V* load temps after 13 hours of Prime (blend test) were ~75 degrees. Is this fine or should the temps be lower ? If it needs mentioning, the heatsink is placed horizontally (parallel to the pci-e card slots). Also, the two Delta fans have helped a lot, but still I am not sure about the temps.

TIM used- CM Thermal Fusion 400.

I actually mounted it that way just to see if temps would be better. It wasn't, it was actually worse so I switched it back. Everyone usually mounts it perpendicular to the pci-e slots.


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## jdazer

what's a reasonable overclock to expect with an d0 i7 920 with the hyper 212+? i already have the hsf in my possession so just wanted to set a level of expectation.

also... the general rule of thumb is to keep it under 70 degrees at load right?

sorry for the dumb quesitons, it's just that i googled a lot and i keep reading about how ppl say this hsf is crap (but i already bought it) and i can't really get a good idea out of what to expect.


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## jeesan485

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
what's a reasonable overclock to expect with an d0 i7 920 with the hyper 212+? i already have the hsf in my possession so just wanted to set a level of expectation.

also... the general rule of thumb is to keep it under 70 degrees at load right?

sorry for the dumb quesitons, it's just that i googled a lot and i keep reading about how ppl say this hsf is crap (but i already bought it) and i can't really get a good idea out of what to expect.

Well, with d0 you should be able to get 3.8ghz easily. I have c0 and i'm running 3.8ghz @ 1.352v with ideal 27-33c, 100%load 60-61c. Also the maximum core temp i got was 74c @100% load. It may also depend on thermal compound and how you apply it. I use arctic cooling mx2.
I'm not sure about the "general rule of thumb is to keep it under 70", the lower the better anyways








Also note that i'm using Cm R4 fans(push/pull) in nzxt tempest evo. Obviously its a good cooler. PPl say negative about this cooler is because lot of us don't know proper way to apply thermal compound on direct touch heat pipe coolers. I had to do it several times to get the results. Hope this helps and good luck with your overclock.


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## jdazer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jeesan485* 
Well, with d0 you should be able to get 3.8ghz easily. I have c0 and i'm running 3.8ghz @ 1.352v with ideal 27-33c, 100%load 60-61c. Also the maximum core temp i got was 74c @100% load. It may also depend on thermal compound and how you apply it. I use arctic cooling mx2.
I'm not sure about the "general rule of thumb is to keep it under 70", the lower the better anyways








Also note that i'm using Cm R4 fans(push/pull) in nzxt tempest evo. Obviously its a good cooler. PPl say negative about this cooler is because lot of us don't know proper way to apply thermal compound on direct touch heat pipe coolers. I had to do it several times to get the results. Hope this helps and good luck with your overclock.

thanks for the response. i bought a tube of OCZ freeze. hope it works similarly because i'd be more than happy with 3.8ghz.

another question, if i'm not doing push pull config, which side should the fan be on that's doing the pushing? should it be drawing air from the vent outside the case door or be drawing air on the inside of the case?

In other words should it be like this:

{outside AIR} |CASE exhaust|<---|CPU|<---|RAM|

or

{outside AIR} |CASE exhaust|--->|CPU|--->|RAM|


----------



## Ha-Nocri

1st one, fan pushing air from RAM to the back of the case...


----------



## sportflyer

Is there a difference between mounting the heat sink vertically or horizontally? I have rear as well as top case fans. Tks


----------



## xDuBz

i wanna joiiiiiin xD


----------



## jeesan485

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
thanks for the response. i bought a tube of OCZ freeze. hope it works similarly because i'd be more than happy with 3.8ghz.

another question, if i'm not doing push pull config, which side should the fan be on that's doing the pushing? should it be drawing air from the vent outside the case door or be drawing air on the inside of the case?

In other words should it be like this:

{outside AIR} |CASE exhaust|<---|CPU|<---|RAM|

or

{outside AIR} |CASE exhaust|--->|CPU|--->|RAM|

It depends on what type of case and fan orientation you have but generally *the first one* is more appropriate. Also from my experience its better to have more exhaust power *if* exhaust fan is close to the CPU heat sink.
Just to show you, this is what i did with mine, hope this helps


----------



## jdazer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jeesan485* 
It depends on what type of case and fan orientation you have but generally *the first one* is more appropriate. Also from my experience its better to have more exhaust power *if* exhaust fan is close to the CPU heat sink.
Just to show you, this is what i did with mine, hope this helps

thanks

also, assuming this setup:

{outside AIR} |CASE exhaust|<---|CPU|<---|RAM|

I bought one R4 fan that is rated at 90cfm. I believe that the hyper 212+ comes with a 78cfm fan.

Should the 90cfm fan act as an exhaust (pull) and let the 76.8cfm fan push?
Should I shell out another $10 for another r4?


----------



## jctpm

It's better to get matching fans. But if you don't, I would just have the R4 Push and the other fan do the pulling.


----------



## jdazer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jctpm* 
It's better to get matching fans. But if you don't, I would just have the R4 Push and the other fan do the pulling.

i was just doing some reading and it seems the general answer was that higher CFM is better for the pull than for the push. however, i don't think i can argue with you at all with your OC results. do you mind telling me what your load and idle temps are for reference? thanks.

edit: nm i just saw your system profile (still getting hang of these forums)

any hints tips on how you got your rig to 4.0? lots of extra case fans?


----------



## jctpm

I guess I just got a decent CPU that doesn't need alot of voltage. I have 3 case fans going on low settings. I'm new to overclocking as well, it's just alot of trial and error, reading articles, and testing for stability.

If your research says that higher CFM is better for pull than for the push, definitely try it out.


----------



## TempestxPR

put me in da club PICS below ^^


----------



## comawhite

Lemme join


----------



## jeesan485

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
thanks

also, assuming this setup:

{outside AIR} |CASE exhaust|<---|CPU|<---|RAM|

I bought one R4 fan that is rated at 90cfm. I believe that the hyper 212+ comes with a 78cfm fan.

Should the 90cfm fan act as an exhaust (pull) and let the 76.8cfm fan push?
Should I shell out another $10 for another r4?

even though it says 90cfm, I'm not entirely convinced b/c some website says its 69cfm and to me it feels like stock hyper 212 plus fan do push little more air. since you got those fans go with the setting you like most. Both fans do push a lot of air. I don't know how much advantage dual fan gives you over single fan on this cooler b/c i was using dual fan from the beginning. If you are like me: willing to spend







, then go for it. Also if possible please let me know what case you are using.


----------



## jdazer

to jctpm and jeesan485 (and anyone else who hit 3.8+ with the 212):

is there a particular OC guide that you used that really helped guide you or were they all pretty much the same and you took a bit from each guide?

edit:

just saw your post jeesan485 - I am using a cooler master centurion 590.

I haven't built my rig yet because I'm still waiting for my Gigabyte x58a-ud3r to arrive (hopefully tomorrow). So all i'm doing in the meantime is entertaining myself with how to O/C and such.


----------



## jctpm

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jeesan485* 
even though it says 90cfm, I'm not entirely convinced b/c some website says its 69cfm and to me it feels like stock hyper 212 plus fan do push little more air.

That's because the 90 cfm R4's are only in Green and Red LEDs.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-062-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-063-_-Product

While the ones rated at 69 cfm are No LED or Blue LED.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-060-_-Product

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-061-_-Product


----------



## jctpm

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
to jctpm and jeesan485 (and anyone else who hit 3.8+ with the 212):

is there a particular OC guide that you used that really helped guide you or were they all pretty much the same and you took a bit from each guide?

I think with a decent CPU and the Hyper 212+, you can achieve a 3.8+ overclock pretty easily. Your temps will probably be higher while under full load compared to those with better heatsinks. I just read alot of guides and made sure to pay attention to anything that was pointed out as a rule. I also looked at Bios templates of members with the same motherboard and CPU. I used their settings as a baseline so I can get a stable overclock.


----------



## jeesan485

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
to jctpm and jeesan485 (and anyone else who hit 3.8+ with the 212):

is there a particular OC guide that you used that really helped guide you or were they all pretty much the same and you took a bit from each guide?

edit:

just saw your post jeesan485 - I am using a cooler master centurion 590.

I haven't built my rig yet because I'm still waiting for my Gigabyte x58a-ud3r to arrive (hopefully tomorrow). So all i'm doing in the meantime is entertaining myself with how to O/C and such.

very nice case, power supply *mounted at the bottom*-just what i was looking to see. You will get plenty of airflow with that case. For the OC, i googled out my mobo settings, picked up things here and there. Also there is a guy 'grpace'(i don't know his real name) he helped me out with overclock on his youtube video b/c he has same mobo as mine. If i were you, first i'd google out mobo setting and i'd do what *jctpm*







said Good luck with your build and overclock.


----------



## jeesan485

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jctpm* 
That's because the 90 cfm R4's are only in Green and Red LEDs.

i bought the red ones and look here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=25753

i was like what???....


----------



## mrmagoogt

count me in!!!


----------



## jdazer

hey guys just installed everything... i'm at stock right now

currently 15 minutes into blend prime... do these temps seem right at 100% load during this test?

highs:
68
65
65
63

they seem awfully high. i'm using OCZ freeze. should i reseat? i'm not doing push/pull yet, but still... seems high.

please advise


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
hey guys just installed everything... i'm at stock right now

currently 15 minutes into blend prime... do these temps seem right at 100% load during this test?

highs:
68
65
65
63

they seem awfully high. i'm using OCZ freeze. should i reseat? i'm not doing push/pull yet, but still... seems high.

please advise

my questions before i can help you out..









1. are you using the processor on your sig?..
2. whats the current clock of your processor?..
3. how did you apply the thermal paste?..
4. what fan are you using?..
5. 1 fan or push/pull?..
6. whats the current speed of the fans?..
7. did you tighten down the thumbscrew on the middle of the heatsink bracket?..
8. hows the airflow in the case?..


----------



## jdazer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mikhail00* 
my questions before i can help you out..









1. are you using the processor on your sig?..
2. whats the current clock of your processor?..
3. how did you apply the thermal paste?..
4. what fan are you using?..
5. 1 fan or push/pull?..
6. whats the current speed of the fans?..
7. did you tighten down the thumbscrew on the middle of the heatsink bracket?..
8. hows the airflow in the case?..

very happy to answer you
















1. yes
2. stock 2.66, 2.8 on load
3. did like 1.5 drop rice size literally in the middle like OCZ instructs and pushed the hsf down on it and i never lifted it up to check. should i put more or less?
4. the 1 fan that came with the 212 plus
5. 1 fan (pull fan is on its way via mail)
6. fan speed is around 1735 according to speedfan (100% speed)
7. kind of... not really i just used my fingers but didnt put much effort. should i use a wrench to really wind it down (not sure i have a tool for it)? how much should i tighten it?
8. 1 intake fan in front, 1 exhaust in back - however my side doors are off, since im still messing with it

one concern i had was i wasn't too sure how tightly i should screw down the 4 corners of the hsf bracket... i was afraid that i'd break the motherboard so i kind of just screwed it down to the point where i see the standoff starts to spin

thanks for reading and your help

just killed prime and my idle temps are:
37
34
37
34


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
very happy to answer you
















1. yes
2. stock 2.66, 2.8 on load
*3. did like 1.5 drop rice size literally in the middle like OCZ instructs and pushed the hsf down on it*
4. the 1 fan that came with the 212 plus
5. 1 fan (pull fan is on its way via mail)
*6. fan speed is around 1735 according to speedfan (100% speed)*
7. kind of... not really i just used my fingers but didnt put much effort. should i use a wrench to really wind it down?
8. 1 intake fan in front, 1 exhaust in back - however my side doors are off, since im still messing with it

one concern i had was i wasn't too sure how tightly i should screw down the 4 corners of the hsf bracket... i was afraid that i'd break the motherboard so i kind of just screwed it down to the point where i see the standoff starts to spin

thanks for reading and your help

the bolded parts are your main problem..

for the 1st problem..
its how you applied the thermal paste.. the CM Hyper 212+ is not like the other heatsinks where they have a flat surface without ridges.. you need to fill in the gaps with the thermal paste.. then either follow *THIS* method or you can fill in the gaps and apply an X shaped thermal paste on the processor.. remember that just because the company of the thermal paste suggested "THIS and THAT" doesnt mean it will benefit ALL heatsinks on the market..

for the 2nd problem..
thats not exactly the rated RPM of those stock fans.. the stock Hyper212+ fans have a maximum of 2200 RPM give or take +-10%.. and 1735 isnt exactly "100%" for the stock fan.. try running the fan directly on a molex or disable SmartFan so that the stock fan will run on full RPM..
(i made the stock fan of my Hyper212+ into the rear exhaust of my case.. and SpeedFan is currently reading it at 2173-2243 RPM..

for the rest of the other questions..
you dont really need to use a wrench on the thumbscrew.. or else you might put on too much pressure on the processor and you might ruin the IHS..
regarding the other 4 screws.. when the screws starts to give a bit of resistance.. give it 1 or 2 GOOD FULL TURNS and thats good enough..

p.s. adding additional fans dont really do much difference.. however.. it can still give about 2-4c drop from a single fan setup.. so thats good too.. it would be better if you swap out the stock fan for a pair of CM R4's or a pair of Gentle Typhoons.. MUCH MUCH better of you can take the noise and get a pair of Scythe Ultra Kaze.. and make a shroud for the push fan.. hehe..









let me know how it goes..


----------



## jdazer

thanks that makes a lot of sense regarding the ridges. ill try it tomorrow when i wake up (6 am time to hit the hay)

the smartfan feature is enabled by default on my motherboard. i'll disable it to see if it goes higher.


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
thanks that makes a lot of sense regarding the ridges. ill try it tomorrow when i wake up (6 am time to hit the hay)

the smartfan feature is enabled by default on my motherboard. i'll disable it to see if it goes higher.

alright.. post a message here after you did some of those.. i wanna know how that Hyper212+ performs on that 920..


----------



## terence52

i got one








will post pics in a min


----------



## mrmagoogt

Noob question. I'm running a Phenom 2 955 @3840Mhz (240 x 16, 1.475v). Recently got the Hyper 212+ with 2 Antec Tricool Fans rated at 79 CFM @2000RPM. Max temp is 61Â°C (prime95 blend test). Based on your experience with this cooler, do you think this temps are normal or should I try reseat the heatsink? Thanks in advance for your comments and sorry for the lousy english.


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrmagoogt* 
Noob question. I'm running a Phenom 2 955 @3840Mhz (240 x 16, 1.475v). Recently got the Hyper 212+ with 2 Antec Tricool Fans rated at 79 CFM @2000RPM. Max temp is 61Â°C (prime95 blend test). Based on your experience with this cooler, do you think this temps are normal or should I try reseat the heatsink? Thanks in advance for your comments and sorry for the lousy english.

whats your ambient temps?..


----------



## mrmagoogt

Sorry I've forgot to tell. Ambient temp is 17Â°C (63Â°F).


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrmagoogt* 
Sorry I've forgot to tell. Ambient temp is 17Â°C (63Â°F).

whoa.. so your ambient temps is 17c and your load temps with Prime95 blend is 61c???.. thats a pretty high delta temp from ambient.. though that is sorta safe for your processor.. but it would be better to keep temps around 50c..

look back at the questions i asked from jdazer..

how did you apply the thermal paste?..

did you hand-tighten the thumbscrew in the middle of the heatsink bracket after installing the heatsink bracket?..


----------



## mrmagoogt

I've used the method that you recommend to Jdazer (kind of). Filled the gaps in the heatsink, then applied a thin layer of AS5 to the processor. I've tried to tight the thumbscrew you are talking about but it never stop turning. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong?


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrmagoogt* 
I've used the method that you recommend to Jdazer (kind of). Filled the gaps in the heatsink, then applied a thin layer of AS5 to the processor. I've tried to tight the thumbscrew you are talking about but it never stop turning. Is this normal? Am I doing something wrong?

actually it *WILL NOT* stop turning.. you just have to stop once there's moderate resistance.. NEVER overdo it.. or else you might f#ck up your processor's IHS..








you could also try a small mod with it by putting a small washer right under the heatsink bracket right under the thumbscrew's end..

well.. im not really sure.. but ive heard that AS5 has a curing time of 200hours.. i think you have to wait alittle for it to settle..









tower heatsinks also require good airflow in the case.. or atleast ample airflow.. coz if you dont have enough exhaust.. you might as well circulate all the warm air inside the case..


----------



## mrmagoogt

I have a 902 case (3 intake 120's), I'm using the 212+'s stock fan as exhaust fan plus
the top 200mm, so I donÂ´t think airflow is the problem. I've seen the washer mod and I'll give it a try. Maybe the AS5 needs more time to cure. I'll report in a few days. Thanks again mikhail00.


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrmagoogt* 
I have a 902 case (3 intake 120's), I'm using the 212+'s stock fan as exhaust fan plus
the top 200mm, so I donÂ´t think airflow is the problem. I've seen the washer mod and I'll give it a try. Maybe the AS5 needs more time to cure. I'll report in a few days. Thanks again mikhail00.

no prob.. and i hope some of the tips and tricks work to your benefit..


----------



## ai7lcy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mikhail00*


you dont really need to use a wrench on the thumbscrew.. or else you might put on too much pressure on the processor and you might ruin the IHS..


I have been guilty of using a wrench, but I am pretty sure I didn't overdo it. Maybe two-three more turns than what is possible with just hands. Is my IHS still at risk ?


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ai7lcy*


I have been guilty of using a wrench, but I am pretty sure I didn't overdo it. Maybe two-three more turns than what is possible with just hands. Is my IHS still at risk ?










oh.. i hope nothing happened.. well.. as long as the temps are still good..
and if you want peace of mind.. take the heatsink off and check on the chip's IHS..









ive read somewhere that maximum suggested pressure on the IHS contact is around 70 lbs (pounds)..


----------



## ryman546

as i read this thread and people are getting lower temps.

I have the amd phenom ii x4 965 125w and was getting 28 idle 48 load

now i'm at 3.7ghz overclock with 32 idle 52 load.

Thinking i should resit the heatsink. I currently have 2 fans on it. one is a scythe 3000rpm pulling air. The original fan is the push.


----------



## ai7lcy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mikhail00*


oh.. i hope nothing happened.. well.. as long as the temps are still good..
and if you want peace of mind.. take the heatsink off and check on the chip's IHS..









ive read somewhere that maximum suggested pressure on the IHS contact is around 70 lbs (pounds)..


Thanks for replying.

My temps are lower than before(2-3 degrees at full load), but then I used a different compound this time. So, the temps are okay I guess.

[noob]How do I check the chip's IHS[/noob]


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


as i read this thread and people are getting lower temps.

I have the amd phenom ii x4 965 125w and was getting 28 idle 48 load

now i'm at 3.7ghz overclock with 32 idle 52 load.

Thinking i should resit the heatsink. I currently have 2 fans on it. one is a scythe 3000rpm pulling air. The original fan is the push.


thats a nice cool temp for your dragon.. whats your ambient temps bydway?..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ai7lcy*


Thanks for replying.

My temps are lower than before(2-3 degrees at full load), but then I used a different compound this time. So, the temps are okay I guess.

[noob]How do I check the chip's IHS[/noob]


well thats good.. atleast your temps didnt skyrocketed..









the IHS(integraded heat spreader) is this.. the top of a processor.. the metal thing over the PCB-like green thingy..
















this is a pic of a fried intel i7 965 Extreme Edition i found searching google.. see the core all f$ck up?..









once you see dents or unusual bumps curves or anything thats not suppose to be there.. then you probably have given too much pressure.. hope nothing will happen wrong in the long run..


----------



## ai7lcy

@mikhail00.

As a matter of fact, there are curves on my cpu, from the sides. Will post a pic in some time. But I have been running stress tests, checking temps & all that jazz. Everything is working fine. But of course, I am concerned.


----------



## ryman546

about 21 degrees celsius. ambient room temp

Is the cooler master r4 series fan a little better than the stock fan on the hyper 212?


----------



## ai7lcy

@mikhail00. here are the pics. Not very clear, but if you look closely on the sides...do you see what I mean ?


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


about 21 degrees celsius. ambient room temp

Is the cooler master r4 series fan a little better than the stock fan on the hyper 212?


hmm.. seems alittle higher than usual.. but the temps are still safe.. maybe a reseat with new thermal paste..
well.. the stock is pretty good actually.. but from the noise/RPM ratio.. it is alittle louder than the R4's.. though the R4's only have a max RPM of 2000 +-10%.. their extremely quiet even on max.. i hear my gfxCard more than my R4's.. plus they push alot of air when i compared both my stock fan and my R4 side by side at full RPM.. probably because of the additional fins on the fan.. i dunno..








im not a aerodynamic guru nor am i good at such but might i suggest you to get the same pair of fans and try the shroud on the push fan so that the dead spot covered by the center of the fan will also be ventilated.. just like how they add shrouds on the push fans on radiators..









it is quite weird that they have the R4 data with 69.69CFM on their website but when i bought the R4 (with same product code).. the info printed on it has 90CFM on it and not 69.69CFM..

here is what my fan and wrappings look like..








and here is the info of my fan.. LOL 69.69CFM website but 90CFM on wrapper..

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ai7lcy*


@mikhail00.

As a matter of fact, there are curves on my cpu, from the sides. Will post a pic in some time. But I have been running stress tests, checking temps & all that jazz. Everything is working fine. But of course, I am concerned.











Quote:



Originally Posted by *ai7lcy*


@mikhail00. here are the pics. Not very clear, but if you look closely on the sides...do you see what I mean ?




















wow.. looks like you got a dent there.. not very noticeable though.. are those dents from the heatsink?.. seems that its not that much of a problem coz its small.. there arent any holes or little nooks and crannies on that dent are there?.. though you should try not to overdo it next time.. coz there might not be another "next time" for that chip..









bydway.. the little bumps you see on the outer rim of the processor is normal..


----------



## mrmagoogt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
as i read this thread and people are getting lower temps.

I have the amd phenom ii x4 965 125w and was getting 28 idle 48 load

now i'm at 3.7ghz overclock with 32 idle 52 load.

Thinking i should resit the heatsink. I currently have 2 fans on it. one is a scythe 3000rpm pulling air. The original fan is the push.

What voltages are you using? I think that those temps are very good too. I've reseated the heatsink and now I'm getting 62Â°C max temps in Prime95 small FFTs torture test @20Â°C room temp, so I think you're ok.

Edit: I've tried 3.720Ghz with 1.385v. core voltage, my max temp was 55Â°C.


----------



## jdazer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mikhail00* 
alright.. post a message here after you did some of those.. i wanna know how that Hyper212+ performs on that 920..










ok so here's results
BEFORE
highs:
68
65
65
63

AFTER:
highs
66
63
62
61

I gained about 2 degrees. I was more liberal in my application of ocz freeze. i just put a rice grain in the middle, and two lines along the creases on the sides like the link you u sent me. i don't have sandpaper to smooth it out at the moment - dont know if i want to do that. Maybe i put too much ocz freeze this time.

right now while prime is running, it's hovering around 65,62,62,60

i turned off smart fan now it's stuck at 1968 rpm.

any tips? should i clean off all the ocz again and try to put less TIM?


----------



## ryman546

yah i thought it was still a little high. I had used the grain of rice method the 2nd time. The first time i spred it evenly around which was about 5 degrees celsius higher.

Ill order a r4 and reseat the cpu using the method in this forum "lines on the copper pipes etc"

i'm at 3.7 ghz on stock voltage. When i get home ill push it farther.


----------



## ryman546

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-054-_-Product

that is what i have on the back of the heatsink and on the back of the case.

ITS A BEAST


----------



## jdazer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


yah i thought it was still a little high. I had used the grain of rice method the 2nd time. The first time i spred it evenly around which was about 5 degrees celsius higher.

Ill order a r4 and reseat the cpu using the method in this forum "lines on the copper pipes etc"

i'm at 3.7 ghz on stock voltage. When i get home ill push it farther.


wait so you have ocz freeze and you had better results with just using the grain rice method in the center with nothing else?


----------



## ryman546

you have me confused lol OCZ freeze?

i have the cooler master hyper 212 plus. i at first tried spredding the arctic silver 5 over the cpu...didnt work to well almost 5 degree celsius higher. So i took of the heatsink and reapplied in a grain of rice method...i got 29 48...then i added a scythe ultra kazi and now get 27 idle 48 load *dont ask me why the load is the same no clue* I'm currently at 32/52 at 3.7 ghz stock voltage.


----------



## ryman546

i ordered the r4 fan for a little more cooling on the front side cpu fan.


----------



## N3C14R

Mine doesn't fit snug in my case. The copper heatpipes keep touching my acrylic side window.


----------



## ai7lcy

@mikhail00

Thanks for the reassurance. Do you suggest any "immediate" steps to be taken ? I can loosen the centre screw if that's gonna make things better for the present config ?


----------



## BlackHoleSon

I want to buy this heatsink but this club is depressing.


----------



## mikhail00

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
ok so here's results
BEFORE
highs:
68
65
65
63

AFTER:
highs
66
63
62
61

I gained about 2 degrees. I was more liberal in my application of ocz freeze. i just put a rice grain in the middle, and two lines along the creases on the sides like the link you u sent me. i don't have sandpaper to smooth it out at the moment - dont know if i want to do that. Maybe i put too much ocz freeze this time.

right now while prime is running, it's hovering around 65,62,62,60

i turned off smart fan now it's stuck at 1968 rpm.

any tips? should i clean off all the ocz again and try to put less TIM?

well.. at least you've made some progress with your temps.. bydway.. whats the current vCore value thats running on your 920?..
dont sand down a HDT cooler.. copper heatpipes are hollow inside and once you sand it down too much.. you could rupture the pipe and ruin your heatsink..
hmm.. well.. thats weird.. 1968rpm? max?.. look at this pic.. the values of FANIN0 and FANIN1 are my R4's.. and the value of FANIN2 is the stock fan that came with the Hyper212+..
1st column are the current RPM..
2nd column are the minimum RPM..
3rd column are the maximum RPM..








pardon me for using snipping tool..









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ai7lcy* 
@mikhail00

Thanks for the reassurance. Do you suggest any "immediate" steps to be taken ? I can loosen the centre screw if that's gonna make things better for the present config ?

well.. you can try.. but dont loosen it to the point where the heatsink starts to move around over the processor..

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackHoleSon* 
I want to buy this heatsink but this club is depressing.

aww.. dont be discouraged in buying the heatsink you want just because of this club.. its currently unofficial.. and the OP seems to have died around the corner..


----------



## jdazer

@mikhail00

vcore is at 1.20v




























fan is 1945 rpm now! i disabled smart fan in bios and speedfan in windows can't seem to control the fan.

my temps seem to have improved a bit after i switched the orientation of the HSF to blow upward instead of towards the rear exhaust. i also installed an exhaust fan on the top of my case vent but i didn't notice any extra temperature decrease. i do not have a pull fan yet for the 212.

i plan to use two r4s for my 212 sometime nextweek when they arrive and move the stock fan to elsewhere in the case (maybe top vent #2).

btw if i hadn't made it clear, i'm really thankful for your assistance as it has helped me. my fingers are so tired i literally reseated my HSF at least 10 times today, trying different things. i'm starting to think i might have a "bad" d0.


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mikhail00*


aww.. dont be discouraged in buying the heatsink you want just because of this club.. its currently unofficial.. and the OP seems to have died around the corner..










I ordered it like an hour ago actually. It's just sad to come to a club that has a terrible looking main post haha


----------



## jdazer

hey guys regarding the hyper 212 plus center screw... does it actually screw down? it doesnt seem to do anything for me other than look like a screw.


----------



## mumyoryu

If you screw it down all it does is tighten the bracket, making it harder to move it into different positions. Doesn't really affect anything else


----------



## RallyMaster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jdazer* 
any tips? should i clean off all the ocz again and try to put less TIM?

Three thin lines on the metal parts between the heatpipes. I found that to be the most effective method. I've done a TIM reapplication about four or five times on my 212+ and that yielded the best result yet.


----------



## sportflyer

Before going to push pull config, can you guys recommend a better fan than the stock one?

If going to two fans , how to connect?

I read somewhere that the best way is to use identical fans and connect the red/black wire to the PSU ( 12v molex) , splice the PWM ( blue ) wires together and only use one monitoring wire to the CPU fan header. ie only connect monitoring wire and control to the CPU fan header and supply the power to both fans from the PSU . Makes sense? tks


----------



## jdazer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *RallyMaster* 
Three thin lines on the metal parts between the heatpipes. I found that to be the most effective method. I've done a TIM reapplication about four or five times on my 212+ and that yielded the best result yet.

thanks rallymaster.

did you also do the "razor" trick where you shove some TIM into the little ridges between the pipe and base and then smooth out the surface with a razor?

or is all you did was just put the 3 lines and nothing else on it as well as nothing on the cpu?

sorry if i'm being a dummy but i've reseated my heatsink 10-15+ times and it's getting real frustrating (on top of that i realized my motherboard is dead now and had to return it - only registers 4gb/6gb ram)


----------



## mrmagoogt

Just reporting: I wasn't happy about my temps (64Â°c max, Prime95, blend test, 1.485v VCore, 17Â°c room temp), but I figured out that the problem was too much NBVID used. I have it in auto and the value was set to 1.375v, now I manually set it to 1.200v and the temps drops to 57Â°c (4 hours, prime 95 blend, 22Â°c room temp) plus now I can use a little less vcore, 1.455v. Waiting for the AS5 to completely cure.


----------



## ryman546

i removed the heatsink. did the 3 lines of thermal paste on cooler and one on cpu. I can now report that i hold 44 degrees celcius at full load at 3.7 ghz. "52 degrees celcius before" It was either the thermal paste that fixed it or me switching the fans around.

my idle temp hasnt dropped though ...weird.


----------



## gd6noob

HEY can i join this club also.!!!


----------



## RallyMaster

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
i removed the heatsink. did the 3 lines of thermal paste on cooler and one on cpu. I can now report that i hold 44 degrees celcius at full load at 3.7 ghz. "52 degrees celcius before" It was either the thermal paste that fixed it or me switching the fans around.

my idle temp hasnt dropped though ...weird.

Idle temperature doesn't mean anything especially if you're on an Intel chip. My Q9550 shows 37-31-32-36 no matter how cold the room is.


----------



## comawhite

My sig rig (waiting for my new case so i can get rid of the wire clutter)










30C idle (stock) about to test it at full load.


----------



## mrmagoogt

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
i removed the heatsink. did the 3 lines of thermal paste on cooler and one on cpu. I can now report that i hold 44 degrees celcius at full load at 3.7 ghz. "52 degrees celcius before" It was either the thermal paste that fixed it or me switching the fans around.

my idle temp hasnt dropped though ...weird.

By "switching the fans" you mean replaced the fans with another ones or changed the the pull/push positions??? The line you put on the processor was in the center? Parallel or perpendicular to the ones in the cooler? I haven't try the three lines method, I just filled the gaps in the heatsink then applied an X pattern on the processor.


----------



## ryman546

i placed 3 lines of thermal paste on the heatsink between the copper pipes... i also put a little in the gaps off the copper pipes "seems to fit just a tad in there" I then placed a single grain of rice drop in the middle. "probably wasnt necessary" but hey i drop 46 degrees farenheit!

As for the fans
I took off the scythe fan and moved it to the push....the stock fan became the pull. "was opposite before"


----------



## hawaiian_geek

scythe s-flex F fan, $19.99 with free shipping from newegg
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185006

Here's another good online retailer as well with the same fan
http://www.svc.com/sy-fan-sff21f.html
http://www.svc.com/sy-fan-sff21g.html

scythe sflex F & G series are good to use with cpu coolers. I use them in a push/pull configuration with my first generation CM Hyper 212 cpu coolers.


----------



## ryman546

yah i have the scythe ultra kazi. amazingly loud fan but moves a ton of air. The loudness doesnt bother me at all. Headphones cancel out the noise. lol


----------



## SporkofdooM

Count me in!


----------



## ryman546

amd 955 and 965 need to post up idle temp/full load temp voltage and overclock. Alot of people asking about temps on these.


----------



## ryman546

heres mine so far. idle and max temp on there.


----------



## ryman546

ok someone pleaseee help me out here. my heatsink just moves around on top of the processor. the screws are all the way down. Someone said the middle screw tightens. How is this possible. Mine just spins.


----------



## strezz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
ok someone pleaseee help me out here. my heatsink just moves around on top of the processor. the screws are all the way down. Someone said the middle screw tightens. How is this possible. Mine just spins.

could be threads are loose? make sure by taking the whole thing out and test it.


----------



## test tube

I just bought a second one of these... They're really hard to beat for $20. Going to replace my old Scythe Mugen with it.


----------



## ryman546

the 4 screws around the outside of the heatsink are fine. they are secure all the way down. The screw *if thats what it is* in the middle of the bracket just spins...doesnt seem to be any threads for it to screw into. All the video guides never have anyone tightening or even touching this. What is it there for?


----------



## RallyMaster

My heatsink does rotate a bit but not that much. You should be fine as long as it's not moving around too much and not making contact with the core.


----------



## Iggy0828

This might sound dumb... I have one of these installed in an Antec 300 Illusion. Two 120mm intake fans on the front, 1 120mm fan on the back and 1 140mm fan on top. I positioned the cooler horizontally and mounted the fan that came with the heatsink on the bottom, pushing air through the heatsink. My reason for doing this was to give it at least as close to a push/pull configuration as I could without buying another fan, which I'll probably end up doing anyway.

My temps are reading 19C idle and 44C under p95 blend. Ambient temp between 16-17C.

I'm happy with my temperature readings, but if I were to remount the heatsink vertically instead would it make much difference?


----------



## damocles

add me to the club, today just got mine. Nice

Adding the second fan (push/pull) make a real difference?

Thanks


----------



## ryman546

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Iggy0828* 
This might sound dumb... I have one of these installed in an Antec 300 Illusion. Two 120mm intake fans on the front, 1 120mm fan on the back and 1 140mm fan on top. I positioned the cooler horizontally and mounted the fan that came with the heatsink on the bottom, pushing air through the heatsink. My reason for doing this was to give it at least as close to a push/pull configuration as I could without buying another fan, which I'll probably end up doing anyway.

My temps are reading 19C idle and 44C under p95 blend. Ambient temp between 16-17C.

I'm happy with my temperature readings, but if I were to remount the heatsink vertically instead would it make much difference?

seems like very good temps.


----------



## Danny Boy

I'm in, just ordered one. I'll post pics when I get it


----------



## usmankh10

here is mine cooler


----------



## damocles

the second fan make a great difference in TEMPS?


----------



## BlackHoleSon

The second fan makes like 4-5C difference for me.


----------



## what_the_ph0

Count me in, this cooler has a really good price/performance ratio. Only bad thing is i cant close the side window of my antec900 =(


----------



## Danny Boy

well...my 212+ is comming in today and i tried to cancel the order and i ordered an h50....but im kinda thinking of keeping this and using it on a old p4 520 socket 775. Is it even worth it or??? most i can OC the chip is from 2.66 to 3.0(my board has no voltage increase control) and it stays pretty cool, but would love to have it to use just because. What do you all think?


----------



## usmankh10

to me second fan doesnt made any difference!!!almost same result wid single fan!!


----------



## Danny Boy

lol, the one they sent me is BNIB, not refurbished! score, guess im gonna use this for my old p4 system and my h50 for my phenom 550


----------



## rogueblade

Hey guys, how do you decide on whether to have your hyper212 facing top to bottom or left to right? For example, this guys exhuast fan is right next to his hyper212 yet he faces it top to bottom:

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackHoleSon*


----------



## Danny Boy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rogueblade* 
Hey guys, how do you decide on whether to have your hyper212 facing top to bottom or left to right? For example, this guys exhuast fan is right next to his hyper212 yet he faces it top to bottom:

i beleive the 212+ mounts up/down for amd and left/right for intel


----------



## rogueblade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Danny Boy* 
i beleive the 212+ mounts up/down for amd and left/right for intel

I'm pretty sure mine can face either way.....I think??


----------



## Shooter116

Yea, it mounts either way


----------



## BlackHoleSon

It mounts either way, When I installed it I didn't know I could close the little retention clamp thing then re-open it after i put it in place.

But I'm happy with it, my case has a side panel fan that blows somewhat towards it, so it keeps a nice airflow going from side to top and keeps the northbridge cool.

I would change it to keep the mosfets cooler but I cant be bothered, it works fine.


----------



## rogueblade

Anyone else get this? 









Right:









Wrong:









But when I tried to install mine facing left to right, I couldn't actually put those support bars in the "right" position. They simply couldn't open up enough without hitting the cooler itself to fit on my mobo (asus P6T). That's why I'm wondering if I should install it facing top to bottom so I can have those bars facing correctly. Right now I have it facing left to right with those bars in the "wrong" position. I'm surprised I haven't found anyone else with this problem or maybe I'm just doing it totally wrong? 0_o


----------



## Boomer1979

Proud owner of 212+ here.

So far I am very happy, tho I may have to reapply my thermal paste as I did a good sized dot on my CPU, and have read that people are getting good results if its applied along the coper pipes instead.

Temp wise I am seeing about 33-36 idle with my Phenom II X4 965 OC'ed from 3.4Ghz to 3.6Ghz, and about the mid to high 40s under load.


----------



## benyu

which way do u guys have it mounted? i have it left to right


----------



## Boomer1979

I have an Antec 1200 case. So I have mine mounted sideways so that it will pull cool air from the front 120mm fans, and blow back to the rear 120mm fans.


----------



## jackkk1

Hello guys!
count me in too!

Unfortunately, I have a problem. I wanted to make a push/pull, so I bought another fan - Arctic F12 Pro PWM, which is one of the few fans that don't fit, because they don't have holes for mounting brackets to fit in. Now my dilemma:

Would it make sense to swap the Arctic for a case fan that came with my case (NZXT Tempest EVO) and put the case fan on the Hyper? If yes, which one should push/pull? (NZXT fan or the Stock fane that came with the Hyper?)

Or should I just sell the Arctic and get another fan that would fit on the Hyper?

Thank you!


----------



## ryman546

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rogueblade*


Anyone else get this? 









Right:









Wrong:









But when I tried to install mine facing left to right, I couldn't actually put those support bars in the "right" position. They simply couldn't open up enough without hitting the cooler itself to fit on my mobo (asus P6T). That's why I'm wondering if I should install it facing top to bottom so I can have those bars facing correctly. Right now I have it facing left to right with those bars in the "wrong" position. I'm surprised I haven't found anyone else with this problem or maybe I'm just doing it totally wrong? 0_o



this might have been why i'm having trouble. I didnt know there a wrong position. How is it any different from the one above.


----------



## Mapster

I like this cooler.

Currently i'm running a pos case (no name, 1 exhaust fan out the back) with the sides off. I'm using the stock cooler and paste and have it blowing towards the rear fan. Ambient temps are 23C. Right now I'm running 20X190 for 3.8Ghz with HT off.

Idle temps - 40C
100% load - 74C

As measured by CPUID HM and Core Temp

During testing with HT enabled temps would hit around 86C at 100% load.

I think with better fans in a push/pull setup and better thermal paste temps would be a lot lower.


----------



## Heimsgard

I just got mine today =D








temps are 32c idle 61c under load good enough for me


----------



## ryman546

61c seems a little high to me?? thought that was the max a amd should be at.

my phenom II x4 965 is at 46 under full load


----------



## GAMERIG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
*61c seems a little high to me??* thought that was the max a amd should be at.

my phenom II x4 965 is at 46 under full load

Yes I do agree with ry's some comments..


----------



## rogueblade

My max temp on a 24 hour prime95 was 84C on the second core of my i7 at 4.0ghz.


----------



## Heimsgard

Well I have tried different thermal compounds, tried changing the fans around and tried making the heat sink go up and down instead of front and back like in the pics. None of it has helped.


----------



## Heimsgard

I finally got my temps to go down quite a little 39c idle 52c under load. I ordered another CM R4 fan to replace the stock one. And ordered a tube of AS5 hopefully this will help even further.

Sorry for the double post. Forgot about the edit button...xD


----------



## mrmagoogt

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryman546*


61c seems a little high to me?? thought that was the max a amd should be at.

my phenom II x4 965 is at 46 under full load


@3.8Ghz, max temp 46Â°c, I think this temps are awesome. Voltages? TIM? Fans?

43Â° is my max temp @3.240GHz with 1.250 Vcore


----------



## n00biE5200

I'm back, had some school switching to deal with. I updated the members list, if i missed you please post and i will add you np.

P.S. got my E7500 running @ 10x380 (3.8Ghz) 24/7 with stock 212+ fan, ill get temps later


----------



## mrmagoogt

better late than never, welcome back, hope you got time to work in this thread!


----------



## ans136

I don't get it...I tried re-seating, reapplying TIM, facing orientation up and sideways...I know I should be sitting below 60c!


----------



## rogueblade

over 66 degrees is perfectly fine for being under stress load.


----------



## jackkk1

I agree... I overclocked my i7 860 to 3,6GHz and I'm getting 72C under full load... Just keep it under 75C and you're good, I think


----------



## n00biE5200

If anyone knows a good review ill happily post it or anything along those lines. (Got the source for the manual?)


----------



## test tube

Cooling my Phenom II 940, this thing gets about the same temperatures as my Scythe Mugen I. I maxed out at about 58C. It's an okay cooler, but in the end it is only a $20 cooler.


----------



## Heimsgard

I got my AMD Phenom II X4 940 at 3.4ghz temps are 38c idle 56c under load this is at 1.3250volts. Way better than it was =)


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Is this thread is it dead or alive?









I bought one of these for my newest build. I haven't overclocked the AMD Quad 630 Propus cpu yet. I must say it was a PITA to install but I have a push/pull configuration using (1) Scythe S-Flex "F" and (1) "G" fan on it. I like the fact that they did away with those paper looking clips and replaced it with a fan attachment thingy. It makes life easier to exchange the 120mm fans. It's probably the best feature that I do like.


----------



## rogueblade

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rogueblade* 
Anyone else get this?









Right:









Wrong:









But when I tried to install my hyper212 facing left to right, I couldn't actually put those support bars in the "right" position. They simply couldn't open up enough without hitting the cooler itself to fit on my mobo (asus P6T). That's why I'm wondering if I should install it facing top to bottom so I can have those bars facing correctly. Right now I have it facing left to right with those bars in the "wrong" position. I'm surprised I haven't found anyone else with this problem or maybe I'm just doing it totally wrong? 0_o

Sorry to pump my own post guys but I'm really hoping to hear if anyone else has experienced this or can guide me as to Why I'm experiencing this.
Thanks


----------



## Boomer1979

I have a Phenom II X4 965 CPU, the only way I could get my 212+ to attach to the motherboard was to place the above pictured item in the "wrong" position. So maybe for Intel CPUs it must go the "Right" way.


----------



## rogueblade

Well the instructions that I've highlighted in that image is for Intel. And yea it must go the "Right" way but mine can't (my point). I can only install it the "wrong" way according to the instructions


----------



## Boomer1979

Well, if it works, and your temps are acceptable go with it.

"If it aint broke, don't fix it."


----------



## //MPower

Well I bought one of these because I upgraded to an i5 750. At stock speeds my i5 idles at 32 degrees and when under load it was hitting about 58 degrees. Are these temps any good because I'm considering a mild overclock very mild maybe 3.2 or a bit more. Also I forgot to mention my ambient is around 20 degrees.

Should I re-seat my cooler again??

Edit: I o/c to 3.15 and my idle is 34 and my max load was 50 when I was playing Bad Company 2. I think that should do unless I could go lower


----------



## exm

Count me in!


----------



## bahrieinn

Hey everyone,
I just built my system last week, and have been playing around with OC a bit.
But how are you guys getting such low load temps?

I have an i7 860 OC @ 3.6ghz at about 1.24 Vcore. and my idle is a round 34C but max load under Prime95 hit 72C and stays at about 68-70C. Even at stock, I remember max load being around 66C. I left most of my other settings to Auto, could another parameter on Auto be driving my temps up?

I used OCZ Freeze as my TIM (instead of AS5 like most but I don't think it should make such a big difference as it seems to be a pretty good TIM as well), and did the razor blade method to fill the gaps, and used the thin strip application.

(Also, I'm using a Lancool K62, and overall airflow shouldn't be a problem)

What do you guys think it might be??


----------



## Baldy

I bump this thread from the underworld. D:

Full rig here.










Idle temps = 30 degrees Celsius
Load temps = Not sure yet lol
Ambient temps = 26 degrees Celsius


----------



## crazydj

Question:

Can the Hyper 212 Plus fit in the classic CM Centurion 5 case? The PSU is located at the top.


----------



## Xapoc

It should. It doesn't fit in this case, and it barely is overflowing, so it should fit in anything 7.5 inches in width or above.

Someone verify please. =P


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *crazydj* 
Question:

Can the Hyper 212 Plus fit in the classic CM Centurion 5 case? The PSU is located at the top.

I don't think it will fit in a Centurion case.
Post the question at the Cooler Master Forums. CM Forum is good about answering questions like the one you have.
http://forum.coolermaster.com/index.php


----------



## meetheat

Heat issues with current spec:
Hyper 212 plus with Arctic Silver 5
P6X58D - latest bios
920 D0
Room Temp 28C
antec 900 case

In comparison to the temps of members with this cooler and numbers from:
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1215/5/ (specifically their 3.8 OC temps)
many members have a 3.8 to 4.0ghz OC with a 1.25+ Vcore but maintains lower temps than mines.

My volts are:
cpu volt: 1.22500 (1.216 in cpuz)
cpu pll: 1.8
qpi/dram core: 1.21875
dram bus: 1.5

I started with Arctic Silver 5 which was above 80C full load in prime95, switched to the TIM which came with the cooler and the load went to 93C so I went back to Arctic Silver 5 has still hit 85C full load.

at 4ghz, full load topped at 85C after a few hrs of prime95, I decided to lower the speed to 3.6ghz by dropping 21x to 19x with 191 bclk and the temps only changed 5C, topping at 80C 3.6ghz as shown:
http://sites.google.com/site/cpu920/

The heatsink is firm in position, after screwing the 4 sides, I also turned the center screw abit. I've read that idle is about 7-10C higher than room temp, with my room being 28C and my idle averaging 43-45C, it seems to be performing worst than the stock cooler based on my low core volts. My main concern is the full load temp jumping from 44C idle to 80C in under a min of loading prime95.

How some members are getting below 75C with this cooler using much higher vcore at 4.0ghz+? I though it may be my Arctic Silver 5 which I purchased 2yrs ago and kept stored away but considering it did better than the TIM that came with the cooler, I'm doubting the Arctic Silver 5 expired after 2yrs. I made sure to fill the channels between the copper pipes and swiped it even used a plastic card. Can 85C be the limitations of this cooler for my 28C room temp?


----------



## crazydj

GUYS!

ITS AWESOME! I got the CM Hyper 212 Plus on impulse and it fits in my Centurion 5 Case! Barely! Got it in dual fan configuration and my temps were from 53C average and now its 33C! That is a drop of 20C! Man, this is so cool! Literally! Haha!

It was quite a hassle to install the heatsink anyway. Second time installing it and still have slight problems here and there. Man, i am happy with my Hyper 212 Plus!









*EDIT:* Even at full load on Prime 95, it reaches a maximum of 55C compared to my old ruby orb which was giving me 76C! I live in the tropics and it does get really hot down here, about 32 degrees Celsius during the day.

My friends told me that i have an awesome imbar (imbalanced) heatsink that gives me the best bang for the buck! About US$35!

Anyway, i used the traditional method of squeezing the whole stock heatsink paste tube on the middle of my E6600 and just let the weight of my heatisnk spread it. Bad move though. I think i can get even lower temps if i actually filled the gaps between the plate and heatpiepes. Any recommendations for high quality thermal compound?


----------



## Shooter116

I just bought one of these, and will be installing it in a couple of days.. Unfortunately I have to use the stock thermal paste, but no biggie. My main question is, if I were to install a medium speed yate loon as the 2nd fan, how would it work partnered with the CM fan that comes on the heatsink? Which should be pushing/pulling? Or is the yate loon not a good fan to use for this purpose?


----------



## bakageta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *meetheat* 
Heat issues with current spec:
Hyper 212 plus with Arctic Silver 5
P6X58D - latest bios
920 D0
Room Temp 28C
antec 900 case

In comparison to the temps of members with this cooler and numbers from:
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1215/5/ (specifically their 3.8 OC temps)
many members have a 3.8 to 4.0ghz OC with a 1.25+ Vcore but maintains lower temps than mines.

My volts are:
cpu volt: 1.22500 (1.216 in cpuz)
cpu pll: 1.8
qpi/dram core: 1.21875
dram bus: 1.5

I started with Arctic Silver 5 which was above 80C full load in prime95, switched to the TIM which came with the cooler and the load went to 93C so I went back to Arctic Silver 5 has still hit 85C full load.

at 4ghz, full load topped at 85C after a few hrs of prime95, I decided to lower the speed to 3.6ghz by dropping 21x to 19x with 191 bclk and the temps only changed 5C, topping at 80C 3.6ghz as shown:
http://sites.google.com/site/cpu920/

The heatsink is firm in position, after screwing the 4 sides, I also turned the center screw abit. I've read that idle is about 7-10C higher than room temp, with my room being 28C and my idle averaging 43-45C, it seems to be performing worst than the stock cooler based on my low core volts. My main concern is the full load temp jumping from 44C idle to 80C in under a min of loading prime95.

How some members are getting below 75C with this cooler using much higher vcore at 4.0ghz+? I though it may be my Arctic Silver 5 which I purchased 2yrs ago and kept stored away but considering it did better than the TIM that came with the cooler, I'm doubting the Arctic Silver 5 expired after 2yrs. I made sure to fill the channels between the copper pipes and swiped it even used a plastic card. Can 85C be the limitations of this cooler for my 28C room temp?

I'm not 100%, but I believe that a fair number of the D0 920's just run on the hot side of things. Pair that with 28C ambient and it's going to get warm.

Mark me down as an owner, the fan died on my trusty Freezer Pro 7 so I moved to the 212+. I figure at least I'll be able to reuse this when I move to an i7. Still just a single fan for now, I'm putting off spending more money as long as I can...


----------



## crackzattic

hey guys i just got my cooler master hyper 212 plus and got it installed on my sig rig. i didnt want to make a new thread just for this so im gonna ask it here.

I am doing some stress testing to check temps and im very confused. I normally use Prime95 to check max temps and have done so for 2 years. I read somewhere that Linx is a good stress tester too. Now i am getting max 81C on Linx and 63C on Prime95 after an hour. Which should i go by? I am using Coretemp and HWmonitor. Should i get better cooling? I am only at 1.475v and i have never had an issue before. Never overheated or random shutdowns. If someone could help it would be soooo appreciated. thanks

also i dont think i mounted it wrong because these are the same temps i had with my Tuniq 120


----------



## ryman546

seems hot. how did you apply the TIM? push/pull as well?


----------



## Tazz12345

Sorry if this question was already answered, but can a Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus fit in this case? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16811119047


----------



## garricktlee

I have one,
why does there need to be a club for every little thing.


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tazz12345* 
Sorry if this question was already answered, but can a Cooler Master Hyper 212 plus fit in this case? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16811119047

You would have to take off that side fan duct, but I think you would be fine. Not sure how much deeper your case is than mine, but I would imagine it's pretty similar.


----------



## Tazz12345

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shooter116* 
You would have to take off that side fan duct, but I think you would be fine. Not sure how much deeper your case is than mine, but I would imagine it's pretty similar.

Thanks for the quick response


----------



## crackzattic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryman546* 
seems hot. how did you apply the TIM? push/pull as well?

just like the arctic silver website says for quads. a thin line across the words in the center. anyway i have just the stock fan but i had push/pull set up with a fm121 and it didnt really help just 3C drop. wasn't enough for me to justify the noise increase.


----------



## Bandrew

I'm in, heres a picture of mine.


----------



## crackzattic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bandrew* 
I'm in, heres a picture of mine.









wow nice cable management


----------



## channelx99

Anyone ever have trouble with the installation of these?

I installed one to a 775 Motherboard, and I noticed the cooler is not 100% tight against the cpu

When I stand my case up, the cooler tilts very slightly downward and I also have the cooler mounted in the East/West way with the fan blowing toward the back of the case. The cooler also moves a little bit if you twist it. Is that normal?


----------



## bakageta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *channelx99*


Anyone ever have trouble with the installation of these?

I installed one to a 775 Motherboard, and I noticed the cooler is not 100% tight against the cpu

When I stand my case up, the cooler tilts very slightly downward and I also have the cooler mounted in the East/West way with the fan blowing toward the back of the case. The cooler also moves a little bit if you twist it. Is that normal?


Definitely not normal, it sounds like you don't have the screw directly above the cpu tightened down. I loosened it originally on mine to make the four corner screws easier to get in, and then tightened it as much as I could after all the corner screws were in.

The heatsink shouldn't be able to be twisted with a reasonable force, and loose enough that it tilts has got to be horrible.


----------



## Baldy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bandrew*


I'm in, heres a picture of mine.










For optimum performance, might I suggest you mount the cooler in a east/west configuration? That way, it would be like

Outside <--- Rear fan <--- Pull fan on CM Hyper 212+ <---- CM Hyper 212+ <---- Push fan

In short, cold air comes in, hot air goes out.









OFF TOPIC: We should make a new club for this cooler. The creator of this club is dead. :/


----------



## Gamingnub

To Baldy:If I mount my cooler from facing my RAM sticks to the position you mentioned, will it "increase" the performance?

BTW, I want to join!


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gamingnub*


To Baldy:If I mount my cooler from facing my RAM sticks to the position you mentioned, will it "increase" the performance?

BTW, I want to join!










there's barely any difference from what people say, if you have a top exhaust if not you're screwed


----------



## Shooter116

Just got mine installed. Temps dropped from 40*idle, 59* load w/ prime, to 33*idle, 42* load w/ prime. All with an ambient of 26*C. Wasn't expecting it to drop so much tbh.. I'm only using the stock fan for now, might put a yate on the other side.. Using the supplied thermal paste too, so i'm impressed!


----------



## ahmadmz

I hate installing heatsinks, I think I messed up putting the thermal paste. Also I forgot to tighten the screw directly above the cpu...
I should reinstall it, but not sure about best way to put thermal paste. Manual says put it on the heatsink then install, some people spread it all over the cpu and some put a little dot in the center (what i do).


----------



## D3FiN3 SiN

I'm in!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/4526596911/


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ahmadmz*


I hate installing heatsinks, I think I messed up putting the thermal paste. Also I forgot to tighten the screw directly above the cpu... 
I should reinstall it, but not sure about best way to put thermal paste. Manual says put it on the heatsink then install, some people spread it all over the cpu and some put a little dot in the center (what i do).


For the thermal paste, the safest way is to use a card or razorblade to "stuff" some paste inbetween the heatpipes and dividers, scrape off the excess paste, then apply three small lines on the three heatpipe dividers right in the center. Use this website for reference:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5


----------



## Ben the OCer

Count me in. I have one in my secondary G6950/H55 rig. It runs it ice cold at my 24/7 clock of 4GHz 1.25v and I've had it up to 4.5GHz 1.4v stable without a problem.


----------



## MisticOne

Add me to the club with Push/Pull in a Antec Two Hundred Case



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Shooter116

How flush to the face of the motherboard are the hex-shaped standoffs supposed to be? I didn't necessarily tighten them by themselves with the tool, I kept them somewhat loose for the mounting and tightened them by screwing in the actual mounting screws with the springs on them. Seemed to work fine, as the cooler doesn't rotate.. but I don't know how loose it's supposed to be. If I try to make it move, I can.. but it doesn't have much play at all... I assume it doesn't matter, but would love some second opinions. Temps don't seem to be affected, this is just for my peace of mind.


----------



## tuesday0108

How is the heatsink compared to the Sunbeam CTF 120mm fan?

I chose the sunbeam because it had a $15 mail in rebate+free shipping on newegg. The free shipping sold me because the hyper 212 was $10 to ship.

It looks like the hyper 212 has the option for 2 fans whereas the sunbean ctf can only have one fan mounted. The mounts on the sunbean is flimsy. I fear it will fall off


----------



## hawaiian_geek

^^^You could get free shipping from amazon.com for the CM Hyper 212 Plus. Bought mine from amazon since shipping to Hawaii is expensive.

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-...3387779&sr=1-1

This cpu cooler is the best bang for the buck!


----------



## danielxcloud

Add me to the 212+ club, I will get pictures posted shortly ;]
Well... guess you can't add me QUITE yet then! Will do soon :]


----------



## hawaiian_geek

^^^The dude who created this 212 Plus club has been MIA for months now. It hasn't been updated for a long time.


----------



## godofdeath

anyone using amd with this and have it mounted left and right?


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


Originally Posted by *godofdeath* 
anyone using amd with this and have it mounted left and right?

Quite a few of us actually.


----------



## ahmadmz

I'm having a hard time with applying TIM on this. After taking out the heatsink and re-applying the TIM 2 times i still think i used too much.

Phenom ii 555 unlocked to quad and overclocked to 3.8GHz i am hitting 62C on full load.
What kind of temps are you guys with overclocked quad-core cpus getting?
Will using a different more powerful fan help? Should I get a different heatsink?

I'll post some pics I took later showing the cpu and heatsink base when I took it out.


----------



## Electroneng

I see in this thread that some people have the 212+ mounted on AM2/AM3 boards mounted so that the fan exhausts to the rear of the case and not the top.

Can this heatsink be mounted vertically without any modding on an AM3 board. If so, how is it done? I do not have the heatsink yet for a budget build and wondered if this was an option.

The case that this is in does not have an option for a top exhaust fan!

Thanks


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Electroneng* 
I see in this thread that some people have the 212+ mounted on AM2/AM3 boards mounted so that the fan exhausts to the rear of the case and not the top.

Can this heatsink be mounted vertically without any modding on an AM3 board. If so, how is it done? I do not have the heatsink yet for a budget build and wondered if this was an option.

The case that this is in does not have an option for a top exhaust fan!

Thanks

It can be mounted either way. The "X" shaped clip that comes with the cooler can be maneuvered so that you can secure the cooler however you want. Check out this thread on how to install it vertically.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...clearance.html


----------



## The_Punisher

ADD ME! This cooler is amazing, I picked it up for $27 shipped and with a push/pull it has allowed me to OC my 955 C3 from 3.2 to 3.9Ghz with only a slight voltage increase of 0.05 and it keeps my idle temps at 10 degrees over ambient, whereas before they were about 18 degrees over and not overclocked. I love it!


----------



## Electroneng

Quote:

It can be mounted either way. The "X" shaped clip that comes with the cooler can be maneuvered so that you can secure the cooler however you want. Check out this thread on how to install it vertically.
Thanks +rep


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

man, for 19.99 at Microcenter, it's hard to pass on this cooler.

might pick one up for a new folding rig im doing with a Q6600.
MicroCenter

how well do you think this cooler will do on a mildly overclocked Q6600 on a tech bench and on a UD3L


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms* 
man, for 19.99 at Microcenter, it's hard to pass on this cooler.

might pick one up for a new folding rig im doing with a Q6600.
MicroCenter

how well do you think this cooler will do on a mildly overclocked Q6600 on a tech bench and on a UD3L

I'm sure it will work great, this cooler can cool overclocked i7's to respectable temperatures.


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shooter116* 
I'm sure it will work great, this cooler can cool overclocked i7's to respectable temperatures.









awesome... thank you sir !!
and i figure 20.00 isn't to bad to spend.... looks like another trip to Microcenter...


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


Originally Posted by *XtremeCuztoms* 
awesome... thank you sir !!
and i figure 20.00 isn't to bad to spend.... looks like another trip to Microcenter...

No problem, that is a good deal.. I paid 24.99 for mine at ewiz. Free shipping is nice though!


----------



## BEEFKING69

Add me


----------



## hawaiian_geek

^^^the dude who started this club has been MIA for a long time.


----------



## PowerTrip

What in the Sam hell is Newegg doing?
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 is now *$65.77* shipped on there.
So much for budget cooling.

EDIT: It's still cheap in other places now that I searched on google.
http://www.provantage.com/cooler-mas...p~7COOL077.htm
Good look Provantage!


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PowerTrip*


What in the Sam hell is Newegg doing?
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 is now *$65.77* shipped on there.
So much for budget cooling.

EDIT: It's still cheap in other places now that I searched on google.
http://www.provantage.com/cooler-master-rr-b10-212p-gp~7COOL077.htm
Good look Provantage!












I hope that's a typo. Why would they think it's necessary to charge $30 over MSRP??


----------



## SporkofdooM

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shooter116* 









I hope that's a typo. Why would they think it's necessary to charge $30 over MSRP??

me too. that price is shameful!


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Pic in first post is dead!


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shooter116*











I hope that's a typo. Why would they think it's necessary to charge $30 over MSRP??


Count me in the club......

Anyway its still $25 at MicroCenter. has anyone lapped this cooler? is it worth it?


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SOCOM_HERO*


Count me in the club......

Anyway its still $25 at MicroCenter. has anyone lapped this cooler? is it worth it?


The dude who started it has been MIA (missing in action) for a long time.








So don't count on your name to be added to this club.


----------



## turbonerds

Got it for 35$ today


----------



## Shooter116

I emailed newegg just for the heck of it to see what was up with the price. They pretty much blew me off which is exactly what I expected. Said their increase in price comes from "various circumstances". I guess one of those circumstances is being on top.


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Supply in demand...meaning Newegg's supply is low...Amazon has it for $29.99 w/free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER


----------



## attila_123

Loving it.


----------



## ztmike

2 questions:

Does this work with the AMD X6 CPU?

Anyone using this cooler with that CPU overclocked?

I was looking at getting the Coolermaster V8 but heard that this cooler performs a tad better and is priced alot better. The comments in this forum "Its just a budget cooler" have me on edge.


----------



## trentiles

$60!? at newegg. That's insane. If anyone is looking for a 212+ shoot me a pm as I have one to get rid of.


----------



## Baldy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ztmike* 
2 questions:

Does this work with the AMD X6 CPU?

Anyone using this cooler with that CPU overclocked?

I was looking at getting the Coolermaster V8 but heard that this cooler performs a tad better and is priced alot better. The comments in this forum "Its just a budget cooler" have me on edge.


Depends on how much you want to OC that X6 chip. If you are looking at a stable OC of 3.8GHz~, this cooler should do the trick (I'm not factoring in ambient temps as well as case airflow though).

You can get this cooler at either ewiz or amazon for less than $30, don't buy from newegg this time round.

The V8 is simply terrible price for performance ratio, and it is so huge...meh not worth it at all.

If you really wanted to spend the extra few bucks, go for the Megahalems or Venomous X.


----------



## test tube

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ztmike* 
2 questions:

Does this work with the AMD X6 CPU?

Anyone using this cooler with that CPU overclocked?

I was looking at getting the Coolermaster V8 but heard that this cooler performs a tad better and is priced alot better. The comments in this forum "Its just a budget cooler" have me on edge.

yes, see sig


----------



## ThumperSD

It's pretty simple, just dont buy it from Newegg. Newegg has some great prices on other products nonetheless. I always shop around the net to look for the best prices for everything.

Cant beat Microcenter's $20 deal


----------



## turbonerds

i have the 212 +, not really happy with my temps maybe im expecting more?

Anyways i got my CPU oc'd to 3.2GHz atm, can get it to 3.4ghz but prefer to go for 3.2GHz,

43c idle 68c load 36 ambient temp..










Anything i can improve?

anyways sign me up


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *turbonerds* 
i have the 212 +, not really happy with my temps maybe im expecting more?

Anyways i got my CPU oc'd to 3.2GHz atm, can get it to 3.4ghz but prefer to go for 3.2GHz,

43c idle 68c load 36 ambient temp..










Anything i can improve?

anyways sign me up









Just remember it is a budget cooler afterall. It's a pretty good performer for the cost of the product. What thermal paste are you using? Maybe try using something better and not the one it came with.


----------



## turbonerds

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YangerD* 
Just remember it is a budget cooler afterall. It's a pretty good performer for the cost of the product. What thermal paste are you using? Maybe try using something better and not the one it came with.

Lmao, i was so focus on putting the heat stink ( first time ), i forgot about my arctic silver mx3 paste lol.. than i got lazy, do i need any products to clean off the existing paste on there?, i just dump the stock on on my old one lol.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *turbonerds* 
Lmao, i was so focus on putting the heat stink ( first time ), i forgot about my arctic silver mx3 paste lol.. than i got lazy, do i need any products to clean off the existing paste on there?, i just dump the stock on on my old one lol.

I suggest you warm up the thermal paste first. One way I suggest you do it is to run a stress these for a few minutes. Prime 95 would do. Then slowly remove the cooler from the CPU. If the seal doesn't break and you force it, you could damage the cpu from the socket. To clean off the paste, use rubbing alcohol. When using your new paste, don't use to much or too little. A small pea size right in the center should suffice. good luck friend


----------



## turbonerds

Sweet, gonna check if i have some rubbing alcohol. Oh, yeah i notice other 212 +'s have the silver clips, mine came with a black clip couldn't take of the stock fan


----------



## iamtheonlystevo

I bought mine back around X-mas 2009ish, I think it was then. My medication makes me a tad forgetful. Anyways, I really like this cooler a lot, it kept my 1ghz OC'd E6750 (3666mhz) at a comfy temp, but has a hard time keeping a mildly overclocked QX6700 cool enough. It's sufficient, but I can't go any further without roasting my chip. Here are some pics I took when I got it from Newegg for ~$25 shipped.
















I like doing size comparisons (ehh.. no it's not a complex...)








And now it lives in here:









EDIT: Oh yeah, I forgot. Add me to the club, if I may


----------



## Baldy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iamtheonlystevo* 
I bought mine back around X-mas 2009ish, I think it was then. My medication makes me a tad forgetful. Anyways, I really like this cooler a lot, it kept my 1ghz OC'd E6750 (3666mhz) at a comfy temp, but has a hard time keeping a mildly overclocked QX6700 cool enough. It's sufficient, but I can't go any further without roasting my chip. Here are some pics I took when I got it from Newegg for ~$25 shipped.
















I like doing size comparisons (ehh.. no it's not a complex...)








And now it lives in here:










Very nice photography there mate.


----------



## sharpshoooter82

i have one how to join


----------



## Baldy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sharpshoooter82*


i have one how to join


The OP vanished a long time ago, so technically, it's impossible to join.









Of course, you can post a pic of your set-up with the cooler just for fun.


----------



## sharpshoooter82

no camara


----------



## sharpshoooter82

whos op


----------



## iamtheonlystevo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Baldy*


Very nice photography there mate.











Thanks, taken by a point and shoot Canon A560, RIP







my 2 year old got a hold of it, turned it on, and threw it.... no more pretty pictures..


----------



## turbonerds

Okay, i found some rubbing alcohol, but i remember reading some where it has to be 100% free isopropyl, but the one i have is Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol 70% USP ANTISEPTIC AND MEDICATED CLEANSER, can anyone confirm before i start a forest fire haha.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turbonerds*


Okay, i found some rubbing alcohol, but i remember reading some where it has to be 100% free isopropyl, but the one i have is Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol 70% USP ANTISEPTIC AND MEDICATED CLEANSER, can anyone confirm before i start a forest fire haha.


It's good enough, no worries.


----------



## YangerD

Alright guys, I'm looking for two better fans for the Hyper 212 Plus. I'm looking for ones that have better airflow and are quiet then the stock one that comes with it. Any recommendations? No LED ones please. Also when you have 2 fans, how do we connect it since there is only one CPU fan header on the motherboard?


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YangerD* 
Alright guys, I'm looking for two better fans for the Hyper 212 Plus. I'm looking for ones that have better airflow and are quiet then the stock one that comes with it. Any recommendations? No LED ones please. Also when you have 2 fans, how do we connect it since there is only one CPU fan header on the motherboard?

You can use a 3pin Y cable to attach to one cpu fan header
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556088752.html

Or just attach the second fan to another mobo fan header.

Or buy a multi fan power port.
http://www.svc.com/mfpp.html

I use Scythe S-Flex "G" fans w/my CM Hyper 212 Plus.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scsfscafan3.html

The "F" fans are a bit more quiet than the "G" fans.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scsfscafan1.html

Just my


----------



## Chuckclc

Ive had one, but I think Im going to H50 soon. Not cuz Im unhappy with 212 though. My video card lets loose a lot of hot air in case and CM 212 sucks it up nicely, but thats not good for cpu. Want a diff setup to keep cpu cool.

CM 212 is a wonderful cooler!


----------



## xBlitzerx

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hawaiian_geek* 
You can use a 3pin Y cable to attach to one cpu fan header
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556088752.html

Or just attach the second fan to another mobo fan header.

Or buy a multi fan power port.
http://www.svc.com/mfpp.html

I use Scythe S-Flex "G" fans w/my CM Hyper 212 Plus.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scsfscafan3.html

The "F" fans are a bit more quiet than the "G" fans.
http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scsfscafan1.html

Just my









I was going to make a new topic, but I found this one, so we'll see if I get the help here.

I got a Hyper 212+ stock right now on my 930. Silverstone Fortress FT02 case. I will add some pics of the layout. I have some questions.

1. Is the layout correct? I've heard that some heatpipes don't work well unless they are verticle. However, with my case setup, I figured this would be the best (fan is blowing up).

2. This stock fan is starting to make a clicking noise. I want to replace it. What is the best fan for this cooler? Noise isn't a huge factor. But the quieter the better, as long as it performs well.

3. Lastly (I think), should I use a push/pull with this setup? I've heard people say having 2 fans so close adds stress/pressure and makes them noisier or just plan not work as well to dissipate heat as well. Yes? No? If yes, I would be using that Y connector for both to use the cpu fan power as my case uses all the other ones up. Anything wrong with that?

Thanks for the input!

EDIT #1: Forgot to mention. My idle temps are around 39-44c (depending on ambient) and load between 73-77c running Linx.


----------



## Crazy^^Red

Add me to the club







I just brought a 212 plus today


----------



## YangerD

Guys, are ALL 120mm fans suppose to work with the clips? I bough an Enermax Magma 120mm fan however for the life of me couldn't get the clips to attach onto the fan itself because the sides weren't perfectly straight. I ended up breaking one clip. So what fans do you guys have on the cooler that was easy to put on the clip?


----------



## hawaiian_geek

I use Scythe S-Flex G fans with my CM 212+. Any 120mm fan should work.


----------



## YangerD

Since one of my extra fan brackets broke, could I actually try some a ghetto setup and use an elastic bang to hold it together with the cooler? Would that work at all?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Add me to the members please, just installed my 212+ today.

E8400:
3.0GHz: 25C - 37C
3.5GHz: 25C - 37C
Steadily bringing it up to 4.0GHz, with nice stress tests in between step-ups.


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YangerD* 
Since one of my extra fan brackets broke, could I actually try some a ghetto setup and use an elastic bang to hold it together with the cooler? Would that work at all?

Here's mine using zip ties because one bracket kept sliding down.


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros* 
Add me to the members please, just installed my 212+ today.

E8400:
3.0GHz: 25C - 37C
3.5GHz: 25C - 37C
Steadily bringing it up to 4.0GHz, with nice stress tests in between step-ups.

The dude who started this clud has been missing in action so there's no way to be added. He hasn't updated for a very long time and probably won't.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hawaiian_geek* 
Here's mine using zip ties because one bracket kept sliding down.

But you actually managed to get the clip on the fan. I couldn't get the clip on the fan at all. Would using a big elastic band to hold together the two fans to the heatsink be a viable option at all?


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YangerD* 
But you actually managed to get the clip on the fan. I couldn't get the clip on the fan at all. Would using a big elastic band to hold together the two fans to the heatsink be a viable option at all?

I've seen people use elastic bands...try it out and see if it works.


----------



## n00biE5200

Please PM me if you want to be added


----------



## scaz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hawaiian_geek*


I've seen people use elastic bands...try it out and see if it works.










I would just run the zip ties around the whole heatsink and fans if I where you. I am hopping to get a 212+ soon myself. I am saving up for a better computer case and monitor so I think that buying the h20 is a little out of my price range right now.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scaz*


I would just run the zip ties around the whole heatsink and fans if I where you. I am hopping to get a 212+ soon myself. I am saving up for a better computer case and monitor so I think that buying the h20 is a little out of my price range right now.


Now where do I get zip ties that are that long in length? Two fans plus the heatsink itself is not a small square.


----------



## scaz

Any hardware/department store should have zip ties. I would suggest using two zip ties so that where they come together is in the corners of the heat sink. It would make the grip more square.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YangerD* 
Now where do I get zip ties that are that long in length? Two fans plus the heatsink itself is not a small square.

I bought a pack really cheap on Newegg a pretty long time ago and they are pretty long.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16899997048


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scaz*


Any hardware/department store should have zip ties. I would suggest using two zip ties so that where they come together is in the corners of the heat sink. It would make the grip more square.


http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...05&cp_id=10520

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


----------



## YangerD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hawaiian_geek*


http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...05&cp_id=10520

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2


Thanks







. I hope 14 inch ties are enough to cover 2 fans and the heatsink together. Anyone know?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YangerD* 
Thanks







. I hope 14 inch ties are enough to cover 2 fans and the heatsink together. Anyone know?

I'd say even 6" should do it, I linked to 8" ties on Newegg, a bunch for like 5 bucks. That monoprice link is much better though for 100 ties


----------



## newbile

mine came with plastic clippings instead of those metal clips


----------



## sequencius

hey guys I just ordered my CM 212+ from coolermaster's online store.

anyone ever order from there?
I payed for 3 day shipping as I've have bad experiences with UPS Ground -___-

so it came out to $25 total.
$22.45 with UPS Ground.


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
hey guys I just ordered my CM 212+ from coolermaster's online store.

anyone ever order from there?
I payed for 3 day shipping as I've have bad experiences with UPS Ground -___-

so it came out to $25 total.
$22.45 with UPS Ground.

me too. its said "processing payment" (i paid with paypal) for 2 days now... its already been deducted from my bank acct too. hopefully it just doesnt update often and i get it tomorrow or friday


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
hey guys I just ordered my CM 212+ from coolermaster's online store.

anyone ever order from there?
I payed for 3 day shipping as I've have bad experiences with UPS Ground -___-

so it came out to $25 total.
$22.45 with UPS Ground.

I ordered some side panels for my HAF 932 from them. Overal experience was good. Shipping is slow though but I can understand because I ordered during the July 4 period.


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
mine came with plastic clippings instead of those metal clips









oh no i hate those =[ did u order it refurbed from the cm store?

anyway to order the metal clips instead, i hope i dont get the ugly plastic shenanigans


----------



## YangerD

What's wrong with the plastic clips? All of them come with the plastic ones now I'm pretty sure.


----------



## ryaan

they just look fugly imo.


----------



## damocles

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
mine came with plastic clippings instead of those metal clips









x2 working fine


----------



## newbile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryaan* 
oh no i hate those =[ did u order it refurbed from the cm store?

anyway to order the metal clips instead, i hope i dont get the ugly plastic shenanigans

nah, i bought mine from compusa just down the street from house.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryaan* 
me too. its said "processing payment" (i paid with paypal) for 2 days now... its already been deducted from my bank acct too. hopefully it just doesnt update often and i get it tomorrow or friday

same here. but it said "processing paypal" like an hour after I made the purchase.


----------



## newbile

im trying to get a 2nd fan buts so expensive


----------



## ryaan

i think im gonna put 2 blue led in push pull sometime next week, so when i do that i can sell the oem fan.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryaan* 
i think im gonna put 2 blue led in push pull sometime next week, so when i do that i can sell the oem fan.

What blue LED fan? the R4's?


----------



## ryaan

nah. antec tricools. i like not needing a fan controller but still able to adjust them... plus it'll match my the others in my 900 so itll look cute


----------



## sequencius

Hey guys I have a question...

My case (Gamma) has two top exhaust fast. Should I just put two of my CM R4 120mm's up there or use them as push pull with the CM 212+ ? And no exhaust at the top of the case just mesh...


----------



## newbile

wait, so you guys actually replace the fans with antec tricool?
but it isnt 4 pin so whats the difference?


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
wait, so you guys actually replace the fans with antec tricool?
but it isnt 4 pin so whats the difference?

idk other ppl that have, but im going to. i dont mind having them connected to a 4pin molex, i can hide it well. and they will just run constantly at low/med/high. i'll probably use med because high is real hi-pitched and annoying.

sequencius - if you have front intake fans, i would keep the airflow from right to left with the 2 r4's in push/pull and then use the oem fan and put it up top as an exhaust pulling hot air up also.


----------



## newbile

well im planning to do push and pull with my tri cools, also i was planning to hook the 3 pin on to the mobo


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
well im planning to do push and pull with my tri cools, also i was planning to hook the 3 pin on to the mobo

they have a 3 pin? i have 2 tricools from when i built my 1st sigrig in 2006, they dont have a 3pin. we'll see when i get them in next week - i gotta pick up a y-splitter too than

where would you plug your 2 fans into on your mobo.. 1 obvi on the cpu area but where the other one? or are you going to use a splitter too?


----------



## newbile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryaan* 
they have a 3 pin? i have 2 tricools from when i built my 1st sigrig in 2006, they dont have a 3pin. we'll see when i get them in next week - i gotta pick up a y-splitter too than

where would you plug your 2 fans into on your mobo.. 1 obvi on the cpu area but where the other one? or are you going to use a splitter too?

actually i have two 4 pins connectors on the mobo and one 3 pin connector


----------



## ryaan

http://img.neoseeker.com/v_image.php...d=1977&image=1

this is what im working with (i dont have my desktop near me, im in NJ its at school in WV). i only see a 4pin near the ram right?... i guess i should get a splitter? will that take away from the voltage though and therefore they run slower?


----------



## newbile

nah dude, you`ll be straight, you got both 4 pins.
lucky ass its also not far apart from each other.
my other 4 pin is on the bottom of the mobo.


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
nah dude, you`ll be straight, you got both 4 pins.
lucky ass its also not far apart from each other.
my other 4 pin is on the bottom of the mobo.

where? i only see the one all the way to the right (ontop of ram slots) i swear im half blind. also thanks

edit; also - pmd^


----------



## newbile

i gootchu ryann


----------



## ryaan

oh tight, haha thanks. this will be much easier than using the molex like i had planned.


----------



## newbile

no prob, now back to NFSU2


----------



## ztmike

Would like to be added to the member list..(If people are still being added?)

Picture of the setup









I seem like the only one who has the cooler setup that way..but my board wouldn't let me face the cooler the other way.

Getting around 18c-25c idle temps on AMD X6 BE overclocked to 4.0ghz, with a room temp hovering around 71-73F. Not sure on bench temps yet.

Ordered these fans and should be in tomorrow for some serious airflow for a push/pull ..96CFM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835705040


----------



## sequencius

yay my 212+ just shipped 30 min ago


----------



## newbile

damn, it dropped my temps in half!!!


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
damn, it dropped my temps in half!!!

You must've had a really crap cooler before!


----------



## newbile

stock dude LOL


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
stock dude LOL

Ah no wonder.


----------



## ryaan

awesome. im hoping for dramatic drops too cause im switching from case w/ bad airflow and stock cooling to a900 and this heatsink!

also, CM updated the shipping info on mine... i ordered july 2nd, expected delivery date is 7/14. yeah i understand it didnt get processed or shipped out until July 6th but jesus thats still like 8 days.


----------



## newbile

GAY, my case is like bare dude, i took off both the panels and the front is like off
so its the ugliest case ever.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryaan* 
awesome. im hoping for dramatic drops too cause im switching from case w/ bad airflow and stock cooling to a900 and this heatsink!

also, CM updated the shipping info on mine... i ordered july 2nd, expected delivery date is 7/14. yeah i understand it didnt get processed or shipped out until July 6th but jesus thats still like 8 days.

which shipping did you choose? UPS Ground?
I chose 3 day.


----------



## ryaan

yeah ground =[


----------



## newbile

now my sh*et wont turn on!


----------



## ryaan

ruh oh.... is it seating wrong?


----------



## newbile

iono but its up and running again, **** its so confusing with my new mobo


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
iono but its up and running again, **** its so confusing with my new mobo

Did what I tell you to do work?


----------



## newbile

yeah pretty much thanks man. now imma OC the hell outta my CPU


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
yeah pretty much thanks man. now imma OC the hell outta my CPU

Glad I was helpful







. Good luck on your overclock brother.


----------



## Wassap

got myself one yesterday, pretty cool so far, but i didnt have a change to test it much since i got a new hdd too and still installing software plus my bios setting went back to stock.

btw add me to the club XD


----------



## sequencius

TOOK LIKE AN HOUR TO INSTALL THIS BEAST


----------



## Confessed

From videos I've watched it looks like an easy install. Why was it hard for you?


----------



## newbile

well it was hard for me cause
when i was installing the secure bracket
each screws were uneven and bending until
i forcefully made them even


----------



## lightsout

Yah you gotta kind of ease them in. At least I did. Screw one a little then get the others hooked, then maybe back some out etc etc till you got it all.


----------



## ryaan

cant wait anymoreeeeee. i cant wait to pop this on and see if i can get 3.5 outta my e6300 again, but with good temps and not like 70*


----------



## newbile

i love it so much,
ive actually never seen
my temps so effing low!


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
well it was hard for me cause
when i was installing the secure bracket
each screws were uneven and bending until
i forcefully made them even

yup


----------



## newbile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
yup

so THATS suppose to happen. whew


----------



## sequencius

uhh is mine facing the wrong way? it's vertical just like it was on the instructions/manual. but most of you guys have it horizontal..lol
or does it matter?


----------



## newbile

no not really, reason some people have it up is cause
some have bigger fans on top of the case that removes more air.

heres mine


----------



## hawaiian_geek

^^^That's one fugly picture...hurts my eyes....LOL!


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
uhh is mine facing the wrong way? it's vertical just like it was on the instructions/manual. but most of you guys have it horizontal..lol
or does it matter?

The way you have it is fine! I have mine that way.


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
uhh is mine facing the wrong way? it's vertical just like it was on the instructions/manual. but most of you guys have it horizontal..lol
or does it matter?










Thx for posting this pic. I was curious if I could fit top fans in if I had my 212+(just bought) vertical like that.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
Thx for posting this pic. I was curious if I could fit top fans in if I had my 212+(just bought) vertical like that.

no problem.
btw it's easier to put the mobo+212 in there first. then slide the fans in. =]


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
no problem.
btw it's easier to put the mobo+212 in there first. then slide the fans in. =]

I plan on just keeping the mobo in the case. I'll just switch out the back plate then lay the case down and put cooler on. Then I will install the top fans.

But then again, it'll be a ***** to use a screwdriver in the case. I'll go ahead and probably take it out


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
I plan on just keeping the mobo in the case. I'll just switch out the back plate then lay the case down and put cooler on. Then I will install the top fans.

But then again, it'll be a ***** to use a screwdriver in the case. I'll go ahead and probably take it out









Yeah the screws on the socket bracket have these extremely thick springs. You're gonna want all the leverage you can get.


----------



## sequencius

When I twist the 212+ it moves a little bit! wth?


----------



## hawaiian_geek

^^If it's moving then it isn't secured well.....I hate to say this but you probably need to reseat it again.


----------



## sequencius

why would I have to start over? maybe the screws arent screwed in tight enough


----------



## XtremeCuztoms

Hyper 212 +

$19.99 of Goodness.
bought mine last week there for $21.99
Gonna use the 212+ on some P4's and some Duals but for Quads on the tech bench they will be under water.


----------



## Wassap




----------



## newbile

nice


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wassap* 

















Are you able to close the side panel on your CM Elite 330 case? I didn't think a CM Hyper 212+ could fit in there with the side panel. I know the first generation CM Hyper 212 could not fit in the CM Elite 330 case.


----------



## BlackHoleSon

I reseated my Hyper today so it flows air horizontally. I may have done a bad job with the TIM again, I don't know. Anyone know the specs on the TIM that comes with the hyper?


----------



## sequencius

coolermaster TIM? lol sucks. it's a cute little syringe tho.


----------



## newbile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
coolermaster TIM? lol sucks. it's a cute little syringe tho.

LOL yes it is.


----------



## Shooter116

The TIM that comes with the Hyper212+ Is actually pretty good. It performs the same as OCZ Freeze. CM ThermalFusion 400

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...alfusion%20400


----------



## Wassap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hawaiian_geek* 
Are you able to close the side panel on your CM Elite 330 case? I didn't think a CM Hyper 212+ could fit in there with the side panel. I know the first generation CM Hyper 212 could not fit in the CM Elite 330 case.

yeah i can, fits nicely, i just had to remove the plastic air duct that comes with the case and thats it.

as far as the tim goes i used mx-2, filled the gaps and then 3 little lines in the metal things between the heatpipes.


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wassap* 
yeah i can, fits nicely, i just had to remove the plastic air duct that comes with the case and thats it.

as far as the tim goes i used mx-2, filled the gaps and then 3 little lines in the metal things between the heatpipes.

Thanks for answering my question. Now I can use another CM Hyper 212+ in a CM Elite 330 case. Yup, MX-2 is da bomb!


----------



## tiramoko

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...6823&CatId=802

can you guys sell your oem for a cheap price?


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
coolermaster TIM? lol sucks.

Does nobody realize that all TIM that is silver based is pretty much the same thing with minor differences and slightly different consistencies?


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BlackHoleSon* 
Does nobody realize that all TIM that is silver based is pretty much the same thing with minor differences and slightly different consistencies?

nah actually you know what, i don't really care about thermal compound I think it serves the same purpose unless it's exceptionally crappy. But according to THIS REVIEW the coolermaster compound is subpar with a grade of C-


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
nah actually you know what, i don't really care about thermal compound I think it serves the same purpose unless it's exceptionally crappy. But according to THIS REVIEW the coolermaster compound is subpar with a grade of C-

The one that comes with the Hyper212+ is CM's top of the line paste... hence the reason it performs that way.

Cooler Master ThermalFusion 400 Aluminum Oxide Moderate 38.00Â°C - A

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...&limitstart=12


----------



## sequencius

what the ****

that's not the one I got!
maybe cus i got a refurbished 212+


----------



## Wassap

how do you know what tim is the one in the package?
i wonder cuz mine is unmarked, just a CM sticker.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wassap* 
how do you know what tim is the one in the package?
i wonder cuz mine is unmarked, just a CM sticker.

idk lol, Shooter116 said it was.
And I know the other coolermaster one that was rated C- because I have it also. But he says that the one that comes with the 212+ is the TIM that got an A rating... idk maybe it's listed on the box/site somewhere i'm too lazy to look


----------



## newbile

who wants to sell me their fan!!


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryaan* 
i think im gonna put 2 blue led in push pull sometime next week, *so when i do that i can sell the oem fan.*











edit; i should have the fans and heatsink in by like wednesday or thursday according to tracking


----------



## newbile

does the OEM really pull/push alot of air?


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
does the OEM really pull/push alot of air?

76 CFM is quite a bit of air movement...


----------



## newbile

who wants to sell me there OEM fan!!! pm me!


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wassap* 
how do you know what tim is the one in the package?
i wonder cuz mine is unmarked, just a CM sticker.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *sequencius* 
idk lol, Shooter116 said it was.
And I know the other coolermaster one that was rated C- because I have it also. But he says that the one that comes with the 212+ is the TIM that got an A rating... idk maybe it's listed on the box/site somewhere i'm too lazy to look

The only reason I know is because I was curious about it before I used it on my GPU. I did a little research, and ended up finding out that TF400 is the only paste Cooler Master supplies that is GREY in color. All the rest of their pastes are white as far as I know. I also spoke with someone from tech support and he confirmed that hyper212+ and CM's other flagship heatsinks all ship with this same paste. It's good stuff, but they give it to you in those cute lil' trial syringes.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
who wants to sell me there OEM fan!!! pm me!

You can get them off newegg.. just in case you didn't know. They are somewhat pricey there though:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-069-_-Product


----------



## Stealth Pyros

*Sighs*

Shin-Etsu, among the best.

10 syringes for $18 shipped.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...T#ht_657wt_831


----------



## newbile

i found out that my antec tricools are actually 1 CFM faster than the blade master.


----------



## hawaiian_geek

^^get some high speed Yate Loons from Sidewindercomputers.com which are the same as the one's at Petrastechshop.com.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/yalo12d1hisp.html


----------



## newbile

i want these but too expensive
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835220014


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hawaiian_geek* 
^^get some high speed Yate Loons from Sidewindercomputers.com which are the same as the one's at Petrastechshop.com.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/yalo12d1hisp.html

those things are loud as tits!


----------



## newbile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryaan* 
those things are loud as tits!

LOL dude i bet, is gonna be impossible sleeping with those things in your comp.


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:

*Sighs*

Shin-Etsu, among the best.

10 syringes for $18 shipped
Wow, nice find. I dont think that is the top of the line Shin Etsu but Shin Etsu nevertheless for a great price!


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chuckclc* 
Wow, nice find. I dont think that is the top of the line Shin Etsu but Shin Etsu nevertheless for a great price!

I'm actually pretty sure it is, if you look around the G751 is like, EVERYWHERE, but nowhere near that price.


----------



## newbile

whats so great about it?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
whats so great about it?

It's just good quality TIM, normally about $5 for a single syringe like the ones I posted. I'm not sure but I think it has 0 cure time as well.


----------



## newbile

how good is OCZ freeze compared to that ^


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
how good is OCZ freeze compared to that ^

Just as good. Really, any of the notable brands are equally good. OCZ, Cooler Master, Antec, Thermaltake, etc.

$18 for 10 .6g syringes of ShinEtsu is a really good price though. Pretty sure OCZ Freeze is ~$4 for a tiny syringe.


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:

I'm actually pretty sure it is, if you look around the G751 is like, EVERYWHERE, but nowhere near that price.
Well actually I was talking about the shin-etsu itself, there are diffrent versions of it and the higher quality more expensive is the shin etsu x23-7783d i believe, then theres the x23-7762 then the cheaper of the 3 is usually the g751. Though i am not sure of the actually diff between the performance of the 3 I just know the x23-7783d is usually about 2 dollars more per .5 grams.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chuckclc* 
Well actually I was talking about the shin-etsu itself, there are diffrent versions of it and the higher quality more expensive is the shin etsu x23-7783d i believe, then theres the x23-7762 then the cheaper of the 3 is usually the g751. Though i am not sure of the actually diff between the performance of the 3 I just know the x23-7783d is usually about 2 dollars more per .5 grams.

After looking into the x23-7783d, you're definitely right there. It does cost more than the G751. I don't have a clue how to go into the details of what the difference is between these 3 'models' but I still say the G751 eBay deal is sick...


----------



## tiramoko

how about this fan

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835109027


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tiramoko* 
how about this fan

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835109027

Will be noisy but other than that I don't see anything wrong with it.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tiramoko* 
how about this fan

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835109027

Those are good, but I like to stick to the same brand as whatever I'm pairing stuff up with; Cooler Master fans to Cooler Master cooler/cases.







Just a psychological thing.

And eww... that one will probably be quite loud. Seriously. Just stick with a Blademaster or R4. If you have your 212+ installed you should know its pretty silent and very efficient


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros* 
After looking into the x23-7783d, you're definitely right there. It does cost more than the G751. I don't have a clue how to go into the details of what the difference is between these 3 'models' but I still say the G751 eBay deal is sick...

That's definitely a killer deal. Scoring the best in benchmark reviews' TIM comparison says a lot.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...&limitstart=12


----------



## sequencius

shin etsu G-751 is what i've got under my 212+ right now =]


----------



## tbone_malone

I'm running one of these in a push/pull config with another CM fan. How are the stock fans on these things? Am I better off replacing it with something a little more High-flow?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tbone_malone* 
I'm running one of these in a push/pull config with another CM fan. How are the stock fans on these things? Am I better off replacing it with something a little more High-flow?

Don't bother, with a single fan (stock fan at that) my max E8400 temp is 45C overclocked to 4.0GHz. I probably seem like a troll as I've posted this around a lot today, but it's the truth; I seriously can't condone spending on more expensive fans when the 212+ stock fan is very efficient and silent as a bonus.


----------



## tbone_malone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros* 
Don't bother, with a single fan (stock fan at that) my max E8400 temp is 45C overclocked to 4.0GHz. I probably seem like a troll as I've posted this around a lot today, but it's the truth; I seriously can't condone spending on more expensive fans when the 212+ stock fan is very efficient and silent as a bonus.

Thanks, any recommendations?









I'm having a hard time keeping my OC'd 920 under 75c...


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tbone_malone* 
Thanks, any recommendations?









I'm having a hard time keeping my OC'd 920 under 75c...

That does seem hot. And you're on a 212+? That definitely sounds like it's either not on there right or needs new thermal paste. 1 pea sized ball of paste directly on the center of the CPU does the trick. Don't spread it, just clamp the 212+ on. Don't even bother twisting it around, there's no need.


----------



## tbone_malone

What I did was put probably a 1/3 pea sized dot on the center of each of the heat pipes.

Just so you know as of now, I have my 920 running at 4.2GHz @ 1.29v 77c on the cores is the max it gets while running OCCT. OC is stable. it just gets hot.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tbone_malone* 
What I did was put probably a 1/3 pea sized dot on the center of each of the heat pipes.

Just so you know as of now, I have my 920 running at 4.2GHz @ 1.29v 77c on the cores is the max it gets while running OCCT. OC is stable. it just gets hot.









I'd maybe drop it down to 4.0 just to get it cooler until you figure out what's wrong. Your method of a tiny dot on each pipe is valid. If you have paste leftover, I'd just try redoing it. When you remove the 212 you'll see if it spread out across the whole CPU. If it didn't, that was the problem, in which case just use a single pea dot in the center of the CPU.


----------



## tbone_malone

Great thanks for the advice. I'll back the overclock down as you suggested. I'll have to wait and order me some more paste before I remove it.


----------



## newbile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tbone_malone* 
Great thanks for the advice. I'll back the overclock down as you suggested. I'll have to wait and order me some more paste before I remove it.

you can do what i did, i put the paste directly on the heatsink,
two lines on the copper pipe and a tiny dot in the middle.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
you can do what i did, i put the paste directly on the heatsink,
two lines on the copper pipe and a tiny dot in the middle.

^ That too.


----------



## tiramoko

what fans do you use for push/pull?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tiramoko*


what fans do you use for push/pull?


Right now I only have the stock fan, but my rear case fan is somewhat of a push/pull I guess. It's just an Antec fan that came with my 900.


----------



## newbile

same, antec tricools its pretty badass too check it.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*


Right now I only have the stock fan, but my rear case fan is somewhat of a push/pull I guess. It's just an Antec fan that came with my 900.


same here. I don't really care for the push pull.. the case's exhaust fast is good enough.


----------



## newbile

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*


Right now I only have the stock fan, but my rear case fan is somewhat of a push/pull I guess. It's just an Antec fan that came with my 900.


dude, do you leave the fan on max? cause i do, it never reaches 24C on full load.
what about you?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:



Originally Posted by *newbile*


dude, do you leave the fan on max? cause i do, it never reaches 24C on full load.
what about you?


I leave all my 900 fans on high, but my CPU reaches 45C max because I have very bad wiring. I really wish I had a HAF X.


----------



## ryaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*


I leave all my 900 fans on high, but my CPU reaches 45C max because I have very bad wiring. I really wish I had a HAF X.


oh man you must be def or always play music loud eh? i have all my fans on med in my 900 and its i think its kinda loud lol


----------



## newbile

well mines like stripped from everything. so its like open


----------



## xBlitzerx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *newbile*


you can do what i did, i put the paste directly on the heatsink,
two lines on the copper pipe and a tiny dot in the middle.


Wouldn't that create air pockets?


----------



## newbile

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xBlitzerx*


Wouldn't that create air pockets?


i used OCZ freeze and theyre pretty thick, besides i put a bit more on the copper.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryaan*


oh man you must be def or always play music loud eh? i have all my fans on med in my 900 and its i think its kinda loud lol


Not really either of those... it's not very loud at all. My room's wall a/c overpowers it so it's really not a big deal. Now, my 4870X2 fan. THAT sucker is loud on 100%. Almost like a small vacuum.


----------



## newbile

any 1090T owners here? speak up!! i gots a question for yas`!


----------



## sequencius

I'd just like to say that uhmmm... I LOVE MY 212+


----------



## newbile

i wonder what are the temps for a 1090T?
not OC. when people say idle temps, do they mean
when theyre just surfing the web? or letting the rig sit there?


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *newbile* 
i wonder what are the temps for a 1090T?
not OC. when people say idle temps, do they mean
when theyre just surfing the web? or letting the rig sit there?

yeah, that is what idle means. not putting any load on the cpu


----------



## magicmike

I have been waiting on mine to arrive, any day now, damn USPS!

I'll throw up some temp changes before and after.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *magicmike* 
I have been waiting on mine to arrive, any day now, damn USPS!

I'll throw up some temp changes before and after.

hey we have the same mobo!!!


----------



## magicmike

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sequencius*


hey we have the same mobo!!!


And processor haha, mine just unlocked to a quad and the computer refers to it as a B55 instead of a 555BE now.

I'll be upgrading my power supply, graphics card and monitor by the end of the year, nothing major but some boosts all around.

I've got a small side fund going though for a new build, just going to grab parts one at a time on good sales and what not.


----------



## ryaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *magicmike*


And processor haha, mine just unlocked to a quad and the computer refers to it as a B55 instead of a 555BE now.

I'll be upgrading my power supply, graphics card and monitor by the end of the year, nothing major but some boosts all around.

I've got a small side fund going though for a new build, just going to grab parts one at a time on good sales and what not.


yep...patience and looking for sales. over the past 3 weeks ive pick up ram/gpu/case/psu/heatsinks&fans/mouse all DIRT CHEAP

down the line i gotta upgrade to quadcore, keyboard and random led/ccfl lighting when i see sales


----------



## sequencius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryaan*


yep...patience and looking for sales. over the past 3 weeks ive pick up ram/gpu/case/psu/heatsinks&fans/mouse all DIRT CHEAP

down the line i gotta upgrade to quadcore, keyboard and random led/ccfl lighting when i see sales


Hooray for budget building!!!
My rig costed $600.


----------



## newbile

im planning to get a 1090T or a SSD maybe a 965 between those 3.


----------



## scaz

I am not a hugh fan of the base on the 212+, but I like everything else about it. I got it from the CM store with some replacement V10 fans for under $40 shipped.


----------



## sequencius

i got it for under $25 shipped. hehehe from the coolermaster store


----------



## ryaan

i made it myself out from things laying around the house and didnt have to worry about paying and shipping. ha! my load temps are 0* no matter what. ha!

errgghhh no really though, UPS shipping is pissing me off. Its arriving tomorrow.

OEM Fan For Sale !
8$ shipped PM me


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sequencius*


i got it for under $25 shipped. hehehe from the coolermaster store


Yea but he got V10 fans







I got mine for $25 as well.


----------



## magicmike

Sigh, just got an email back from micro center,they told me it shipped before and now they just told me that it was unavailable and they will credit me back.

This is the 4th time i've had it happen to me







and all from different vendors, looks like I might go to ebay because they actually do have it instead of saying they do and hoping their vendor/distributor does!


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *magicmike* 
Sigh, just got an email back from micro center,they told me it shipped before and now they just told me that it was unavailable and they will credit me back.

This is the 4th time i've had it happen to me







and all from different vendors, looks like I might go to ebay because they actually do have it instead of saying they do and hoping their vendor/distributor does!

Uhhh...have you tried Amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-...9060833&sr=8-1


----------



## ryaan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Confessed*


Uhhh...have you tried Amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-...9060833&sr=8-1


yeah. college kids can get free prime account too for 1yr (free 2day shipping). search the forums for the post.


----------



## sequencius

I wonder if this guy maintains this thread. He hasn't added any of us recently.


----------



## Confessed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryaan*


yeah. college kids can get free prime account too for 1yr (free 2day shipping). search the forums for the post.


I just used the trial to order the cooler, MX-2, and some fans.


----------



## magicmike

I did try amazon and was notified that it was going to be a month to two months, i'll check again and see if a new seller is listed, and I did take advantage of prime already.


----------



## ryaan

soooo my 212+ was supposed to come today.. its 4pm and still nothing

i ordered it on 7/2 and didnt get it yet. i ordered the fans for it 2 days ago but got them already.

gg cooler master store. if this thing isnt magnificent im gonna bbe fscking pissed

actually, gg UPS. USPS is so much quicckkeerrrr


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryaan* 
soooo my 212+ was supposed to come today.. its 4pm and still nothing

i ordered it on 7/2 and didnt get it yet. i ordered the fans for it 2 days ago but got them already.

gg cooler master store. if this thing isnt magnificent im gonna bbe fscking pissed

actually, gg UPS. USPS is so much quicckkeerrrr

With Amazon my 212+, MX-2, and 3 fans came in two days. UPS two day shipping with the free "Prime" trial.


----------



## magicmike

Well after shooting blanks for a while I finally do have my 212+ officially on its way, tracked and everything, the reality of its arrival is finally coming lol.


----------



## sequencius

u guys shoulda payed for the 3 day shipping.
it was $14 for the 212+ on the CM site.. so the extra shipping made it like 25$.. that's still cheap to me so the extra shipping charge was like nothing to me. It came in like 2 days.


----------



## folk-it-up

got mine at my local compusa, for $30, since on newegg it rose up to almost $60 wit shipping witch is insane, anyways heres a couple pics, oh and the pics on newegg dont do it justice, this thing is huge it makes my 23" in the back look small


----------



## Frost

Hyper 212+ coming Saturday Via Amazon for $34.99 plus an extra CM 120MM 70CFM(have 1 already, that's two)









I hope it outdoes this POS Arctic Freezer Pro 7, I can't get anywhere with my OC and stay under 55C load. I tried redoing the OCZ Freeze TIM but no good. Here's hoping


----------



## newbile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *folk-it-up* 
*got mine at my local compusa, for $30, since on newegg it rose up to almost $60 wit shipping witch is insane*, anyways heres a couple pics, oh and the pics on newegg dont do it justice, this thing is huge it makes my 23" in the back look small

















same here.


----------



## klaxian

I ordered one of these today for my Phenom II X6 after a Zalman 9500 performed WORSE than my stock cooler. I measured and I think it will just barely fit in my case. I also have some MX-2 TIM on its way. Is anyone running this on a 4-6 core CPU? Does it cool well (better than stock)? I hope I'm not disappointed again...


----------



## hawaiian_geek

I run a CM Hyper 212 Plus with a AMD 630 Propus that's overclocked to 3.5gh. I'm using (2) Scythe S-Flex "G" fans in a push/pull configuration. I also use the first generation CM Hyper 212 cpu cooler with my Intel Quad 9550 cpu that's overclocked to 3.6ghz & using push/pull configuration as well. MX-2 is good and easy to use compared to MX-3. The CM Hyper 212 Plus is way better to use than the stock heatsink fan. Just my


----------



## ryaan

got mine in last night at like 730pm (didnt even know ups delivers that late)

lapped my cpu also. (holy crap this took longer than expected... like 2.5 hrs to get it sexy)

before - e6300 @ 1.86ghz 1.325v = 48 idle 55 occt load
now = e6300 @ 3.15ghz 1.35v = 32idle 38 occt load

this is with just 1 fan. with push/pull it was the same temperatures so i took the 2nd fan and put it on my case door blowing air in....

when my new PSU arrives later today im gonna try to get 3.5 (have in the past before having this gpu) to 3.7 cause right now i couldnt load windows higher than this, but it is stable right now occt 1hr.

edit; have been stability testing/benchmarking for a while now. (room temp = AC set at 66*F/19*C - dunno actual room temp tho)
e6300 @ 3.15ghz 1.35v
idle - 28-30*c
load occt - 41
load intel burn - 55

im loving this thing! during normal gaming i only hit about 34*c


----------



## magicmike

Just installed my 212+, boy was it ever a close fit in this case (will be upgrading soon though).

Dropped idle temps down to 29-30Â°C from 32-34Â°C, and under full load I couldn't get it to hit 50Â°C when previously it would get right up to 60Â°C.

So far things are good, and mine is set up push/pull.


----------



## xBlitzerx

I have a question about the center screw/pin. How does it work? It seems to turn and turn endlessly. Will it stop at a point? Will it effect temps?


----------



## Cacophony

this cooler is so underated.


----------



## _DemolidoR_

Since I've added a new 120mm fan to my CM 212+ I've got a -5Âº C full -12 ~ 15Âº C idle, great improvement with 2 fans


















I had a Evercool Buffalo until may, and I can tell you... I couldn't go beyond 3.6GHz, now I can go 3.9GHz and maybe more *stable* (ran 47min of LinX Linpack)


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cacophony* 
this cooler is so underated.

Very, I laugh when people refuse to get this cooler because it's a cheap $25 cooler and go out to spend ~$70 on a Mugen or some other cooler that really does no better of a job.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros* 
Very, I laugh when people refuse to get this cooler because it's a cheap $25 cooler and go out to spend ~$70 on a Mugen or some other cooler that really does no better of a job.

^This. A very BIG plus 1


----------



## mumyoryu

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xBlitzerx* 
I have a question about the center screw/pin. How does it work? It seems to turn and turn endlessly. Will it stop at a point? Will it effect temps?

All it does is keep the cooler centered on the bracket and that's about it







. You could try putting a washer in between the pin and bolt on the bottom for more pressure, but I didn't see my temps budge when I tried it


----------



## scaz

I got some used S-FLEX Gs fans that I am going to put on this heat sink. Do you think that two of them is too over kill? I could put on on my T-Rad2 for my video card.


----------



## YangerD

I put an Enermax Magma fan as my pull fan, however the holes didn't line up well with the holes from the fan clips so I used 4 zip ties (one on each corner) to secure the clip to the fan. It's not as snug as the stock fan and clip but its getting the job done.


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scaz* 
I got some used S-FLEX Gs fans that I am going to put on this heat sink. Do you think that two of them is too over kill? I could put on on my T-Rad2 for my video card.

trial and error. i tried push pull and some people get great temp drops but my difference was only ~1*c


----------



## newbile

i got half


----------



## scaz

My 965 is at 3.6 and doesn't get a max temp of 45C at 3.6 ghz. I hope to have more time to work on overclocking in the near future.


----------



## Initial

Just ordered the Hyper from directron.com for 32 bux shipped. Pretty good compared to newegg at least, not sure whats going on with their price heh. Should have a nice home on my 1055t that's coming also, i cant wait.


----------



## Ben the OCer

LOL, did anybody see the Hyper 212+ at Newegg for $29.99 shipped the other day. I thought the Newegg price craziness was over. Not the case, today it's back to crazy pricing at $49.99 + shipping. I really don't get it at all.


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer* 
LOL, did anybody see the Hyper 212+ at Newegg for $29.99 shipped the other day. I thought the Newegg price craziness was over. Not the case, today it's back to crazy pricing at $49.99 + shipping. I really don't get at all.

I saw and I was thinking maybe they were becoming good again...I was wrong.


----------



## Mr_Brit

Hi guys,
What's the best method for applying TIM to this cooler? Also installation is a bit fiddly and the cooler keeps on moving about whilst I'm tightening the screws to the backplate, will this mess up the TIM?


----------



## FreeBirdMarine77

Lol 49.99 + shipping? I got it from fry's for 24.99 + tax...


----------



## ryaan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr_Brit* 
Hi guys,
What's the best method for applying TIM to this cooler? Also installation is a bit fiddly and the cooler keeps on moving about whilst I'm tightening the screws to the backplate, will this mess up the TIM?

mine did the same thing. my screws are as tight as possible and i can still move the heatsink a little bit actually.

put 3 lines of tim on the aluminum. here:


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mr_Brit* 
Hi guys,
What's the best method for applying TIM to this cooler? Also installation is a bit fiddly and the cooler keeps on moving about whilst I'm tightening the screws to the backplate, will this mess up the TIM?

Fill in the channels and then put 1-2 small lines of TIM perpendicular to the heat pipes. You don't want the TIM to be forced out the channels instead of spreading over the pipes.

It's ok it the cooler is able to move just a tiny bit after the screws are in tight. That will depend on the viscosity of the TIM you use to some degree and it should firm up a little bit over time. The cooler is certainly making good contact with the CPU though.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ryaan* 
mine did the same thing. my screws are as tight as possible and i can still move the heatsink a little bit actually.

put 3 lines of tim on the aluminum. here:

same here. I can kind of twist the heatsink.


----------



## Lee79

My 212 moves a little bit aswell, when I have changed the fans I have moved it a bit. I used the fill in the gaps and then 3 lines method and moving it while changing the fans does not seam to effect the temps in anyway. I used MX-3 paste on mine. One tip if you use this paste it is very thick and gloppy, put the syringe in a cup of hot water before you use it makes it very easy to apply then.


----------



## Shooter116

Just curious whether or not the people with heatinks that spin after installed are using the original cooler with the wire fan clips or the revised cooler with the plastic fan clips?

Might not matter, but I know the original design has gaps in the heatpipe dividers.. or possibly something else that may help it spin a tad. My cooler doesn't move at all even if I try to force it. It does seem to "lean" a little though. Looks like it sticks out further near the top of my motherboard.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Shooter116* 
Just curious whether or not the people with heatinks that spin after installed are using the original cooler with the wire fan clips or the revised cooler with the plastic fan clips?

Might not matter, but I know the original design has gaps in the heatpipe dividers.. or possibly something else that may help it spin a tad. My cooler doesn't move at all even if I try to force it.

I have the one with the fan clips and my cooler also does not move. It is rock solid.


----------



## klaxian

First of all, any "spinning" is actually barely a 1-2 mm rotation when lots of force is applied. The cooler is clearly extremely tight against the processor as designed. I think this is most likely related to the type of TIM used for installation and how long your system has been in use with the cooler. I used MX-2, which has a relatively low viscosity and is not pasty like some others.


----------



## sequencius

hehe 19deg


----------



## newbile

if my tricools are set on high its at least 16-20 C


----------



## darkponcho

Question: Where the hell can I find this for a decent price in the USA. I thought the suggested retail price was $30, and it's sold out everywhere. Newegg has it in stock, but has it listed as $50 plus $7.50 shipping...


----------



## newbile

amazon?
compusa?


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darkponcho* 
Question: Where the hell can I find this for a decent price in the USA. I thought the suggested retail price was $30, and it's sold out everywhere. Newegg has it in stock, but has it listed as $50 plus $7.50 shipping...

keep checking this http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...?cPath=18_37_4

they have em a lot, but not right now


----------



## bakageta

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darkponcho* 
Question: Where the hell can I find this for a decent price in the USA. I thought the suggested retail price was $30, and it's sold out everywhere. Newegg has it in stock, but has it listed as $50 plus $7.50 shipping...

Do you have a Microcenter nearby? They recently had them for $19.99, though I don't think it's listed on their website.


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darkponcho* 
Question: Where the hell can I find this for a decent price in the USA. I thought the suggested retail price was $30, and it's sold out everywhere. Newegg has it in stock, but has it listed as $50 plus $7.50 shipping...

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-...0490129&sr=8-1

http://www.frys.com/product/5971334


----------



## klaxian

I got mine from Tiger Direct for about $30, but it looks like they are out of stock now.


----------



## scaz

I got to 3.9 and my max temps hit 50C. My room was getting pretty hot, but I don't know how much more I should shoot for. I believe most people try to keep it under 55C.


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scaz* 
I got to 3.9 and my max temps hit 50C. My room was getting pretty hot, but I don't know how much more I should shoot for. I believe most people try to keep it under 55C.

Ya try to stay under 55c. You could probably get 4.0 stable. You have good fans so go for it.


----------



## baph

Anyone using this in an Antec 902? Wondering how it fits and if there's enough room to use my side window fan.

Just one other question, I read the guide about applying paste to this, small strips on the aluminum parts but should I put a little on the CPU itself or not?

Thanks!


----------



## newbile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *baph* 
Anyone using this in an Antec 902? Wondering how it fits and if there's enough room to use my side window fan.

Just one other question, I read the guide about *(1)applying paste to this, small strips on the aluminum parts* but should I *(2)put a little on the CPU itself* or not?

Thanks!

this is what i did.
1
2


----------



## Mr_Brit

What exactly does the screw in the middle, underneath the heatsink fins do exactly? Are you meant to screw it in or something and does it make a difference?


----------



## Citra

Does anyone know whether the NZXT Gamma Classic Series works with the 212+ and whether it works with the Phenom 1090T?

The width of the case is 190mm.

http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/classic_series/gamma


----------



## singlecore2logical

It should, the Hyper 212+ is only 158.5 mm tall.

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/prod...roduct_id=2923


----------



## Citra

Quote:


Originally Posted by *singlecore2logical* 
It should, the Hyper 212+ is only 158.5 mm tall.

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/prod...roduct_id=2923

Thanks!


----------



## n00biE5200

Finally got a chance to update member list. If you got a review or something to add pls PM me. Also if you want to join pls PM me.

n00biE5200

PS It might take a while


----------



## Baldy

Yay, the owner is back!

Yeah, if you can add me on this list, that would be great.

Oh, and I've sent you a PM.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Citra* 
Does anyone know whether the NZXT Gamma Classic Series works with the 212+ and whether it works with the Phenom 1090T?

The width of the case is 190mm.

http://www.nzxt.com/new/products/classic_series/gamma

yes mine fits, even with two 120m exhaust fans on top


----------



## tomterrific

About to install this tomorrow on my sig rig (which is itself getting put together tomorrow...) I've got a tube of AS5 and I've seen the benchmarkreviews article on best practices for applying TIM to an HDT cooler like this one. But I see some of you guys are mounting it horizontally so the fan blows the air up towards a top fan. Is this OK with a sleeve bearing fan or did you replace the stock fan? Is it worth it to go horizontal?

Thanks! Looking forward to seeing what kind of temps I can run with this thing on stock clock and voltage, before I start dabbling in this overclocking business.


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tomterrific* 
About to install this tomorrow on my sig rig (which is itself getting put together tomorrow...) I've got a tube of AS5 and I've seen the benchmarkreviews article on best practices for applying TIM to an HDT cooler like this one. But I see some of you guys are mounting it horizontally so the fan blows the air up towards a top fan. Is this OK with a sleeve bearing fan or did you replace the stock fan? Is it worth it to go horizontal?

Thanks! Looking forward to seeing what kind of temps I can run with this thing on stock clock and voltage, before I start dabbling in this overclocking business.

You the cooler facing the rear of the case usually.


----------



## klaxian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tomterrific* 
Is this OK with a sleeve bearing fan or did you replace the stock fan? Is it worth it to go horizontal?

Sleeve fans should be mounted vertically for best results and longevity.


----------



## lightsout

I've had a couple of these coolers for a while. Liked them very much. Just got a new mobo (specs in sig). I was running this same cpu @ 3.6ghz in my last board and temps were fine. Right now at 3.8ghz I ran IBT and hit 66c!!!

Anyways what are good fans people recommend for these coolers, right now I have the 2 of the stock fans for push/pull.

What I'm looking for are 2 fans that won't break the bank, need to push a ton of air but would be nice if they didn't sound like vacuums, thanks guys.


----------



## ryaan

i still have the OEM fan, unused, if anyone wants it for push/pull let me know


----------



## tomterrific

Ran OCCT on my system without making any alterations. Got the attached results. The cores Idled between 28-30 at the start of the test, and then peaked around 58-60 at load. Ambient (room temperature) is probably around 21-23 (central ac is set to 22). Does this sound about right? There's a 212+ with AS5 sitting on top of the processor inside a Scout Storm. Thanks.


----------



## mrfajita

My damn Hyper 212 plus hates me, its really making me mad.
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...-hates-me.html


----------



## Wassap

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mrfajita* 
My damn Hyper 212 plus hates me, its really making me mad.
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...-hates-me.html

whats your room temp, same as the one in the review?
also what tim are u using?


----------



## mrfajita

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wassap*


whats your room temp, same as the one in the review?
also what tim are u using?


25-28c ambient, using the stuff that came with it since its apparently better than Ceramique. Even with two fans and my CPU at stock voltage it gets up to 65c under load.


----------



## scaz

Yea, 4.0 GHZ and my cpu stays under 52c. I am haven't been on the PC for while, but I will try to stress it out tonight and post a screen shot.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ryaan*


i still have the OEM fan, unused, if anyone wants it for push/pull let me know


how much buddy


----------



## ryaan

ive been pm'd by mods im not allowed to advertise selling stuff cause of rep >.<


----------



## lightsout

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scaz*


Yea, 4.0 GHZ and my cpu stays under 52c. I am haven't been on the PC for while, but I will try to stress it out tonight and post a screen shot.


Mine hit 65c today during IBT at 4.0. Hits around 62-63 at 3.8ghz. I got some freeze I'm going to put on in a couple days when my new case arrives. Hopefully it helps as I've been dissapointed with the temps so far. It worked great when I had my q6600.


----------



## Confessed

I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to let a 1055T go over 62Â°C. You should probably lower your clocks.


----------



## quentin555

hi all...does anyone know if the cm 212 + has clearance issues with 6gb of corsair dominators on an evga x58 3 sli.


----------



## krameriffic

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
I'm pretty sure you're not supposed to let a 1055T go over 62Â°C. You should probably lower your clocks.

IBT is such an unrealistic stress test though. It is to CPUs what Furmark is to GPUs.


----------



## sequencius

check my 212+ sammich
those are 120mm green CM R4's btw


----------



## Confessed

24/7 out of case, eh?


----------



## Citra

If your cpu isn't cold enough, put this fan in push and pull.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16835706015


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
24/7 out of case, eh?

yeah pretty much.


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Citra* 
If your cpu isn't cold enough, put this fan in push and pull.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16835706015

I'd rather keep my finger.


----------



## sequencius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
I'd rather keep my finger.

lol 252.85 CFM

yeah forget that...


----------



## scaz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Citra* 
If your cpu isn't cold enough, put this fan in push and pull.

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...82E16835706015

Right after I sound proof my computer case. I already want to go water because of the noise of my s-flex and they aren't suppose to be that loud.


----------



## ariasoli

Just installed one along with moving to a new and much better case.

Under full load dropped from 55-58c to 29-30c. Simply awesome, I just wish I knew how much each contributed to the temp drop.


----------



## iPodder

Can someone confirm that a hyper 212 plus will fit in an antec 300? Also, how much would push/pull fans compare to just one fan?


----------



## N3mc0n

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iPodder* 
Can someone confirm that a hyper 212 plus will fit in an antec 300? Also, how much would push/pull fans compare to just one fan?

It will fit, as long as you don't have a side fan in the case


----------



## polynomialc

not very impressed with this cooler at all.. im running 1090t at 3.8 1.4v nice 29c idle which seems okay but after a line or 2 in 6core prime.. it roasts it.. goes up to 60-61-62.. way to high.. i have 2 noctua fans on the heatsink push/pull.. apparently not doing enough. ive reseated this fan 3 times.. used different pastes, stock, mx-2 nothing seems to help. air flow in my case isnt terrible.. not sure why it spikes so much in prime. would be happy with 55c if i could get that

been doing some cable management cleaning up my case but still no improvments. i think it might be time to retire this archaic case, my old p180! this case is really limited for pulling air into the case,


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Get better fans for your CM Hyper 212+. If you don't wanna spend bucks get 2 Yate Loon High speed fans from Petra's. Or some Scythe S-Flex "G" fans.
Just my









http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa2.html

http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scsfscafan3.html


----------



## polynomialc

ill try to pick up those scythe s-flex, im assuming they are probably quite a bit louder then

current ones (2) noctua NF-S12 - 1200rpm


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *polynomialc* 
ill try to pick up those scythe s-flex, im assuming they are probably quite a bit louder then

current ones (2) noctua NF-S12 - 1200rpm

The "G" S-Flex series is a bit louder but not as loud as the high speed Yate Loons.


----------



## sequencius

for anyone wanting to buy the stock fans:

http://www.svc.com/r4-bmbs-20pk-r0.html


----------



## Caleo

Just lapped (sink only) and re-seated my Hyper 212+ tonight.. temps SEEM to have dropped a good ~8c or so max load (~70c down to ~62c), but that could just be that it hasn't heated up fully yet (15 minutes so far on LinX). Considering the fact that the AS5 hasn't set in at all yet, temps seem pretty good so far.

My main gripe about this thing is how much space there is between heatpipes doing essentially nothing.. but it gets the job done on the cheap I suppose.


----------



## iamtheonlystevo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Caleo* 
Just lapped (sink only) and re-seated my Hyper 212+ tonight.. temps SEEM to have dropped a good ~8c or so max load (~70c down to ~62c), but that could just be that it hasn't heated up fully yet (15 minutes so far on LinX). Considering the fact that the AS5 hasn't set in at all yet, temps seem pretty good so far.

My main gripe about this thing is how much space there is between heatpipes doing essentially nothing.. but it gets the job done on the cheap I suppose.

Did you use a course sandpaper first? I was considering lapping my 212+, but I've heard the HDT area is extremely thin. I'm afraid to remove too much, so I'll probably go 600grit and higher. I saw a guy somewhere around OCN (or somewhere, hard to remember sometimes) who had put copper RAMsinks all over his heat pipes. Don't recall if it actually did anything; but hey, why not?


----------



## Kevlo

I want to join, i bought mine the day before yesterday and i found some free time yesterday to install it i was able to overclock 100 mhz more and my load temps went down 3-4 degrees


----------



## Kevlo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *polynomialc* 
not very impressed with this cooler at all.. im running 1090t at 3.8 1.4v nice 29c idle which seems okay but after a line or 2 in 6core prime.. it roasts it.. goes up to 60-61-62.. way to high.. i have 2 noctua fans on the heatsink push/pull.. apparently not doing enough. ive reseated this fan 3 times.. used different pastes, stock, mx-2 nothing seems to help. air flow in my case isnt terrible.. not sure why it spikes so much in prime. would be happy with 55c if i could get that

been doing some cable management cleaning up my case but still no improvments. i think it might be time to retire this archaic case, my old p180! this case is really limited for pulling air into the case,

dude i think you need a better case, that case has like no airflow at all, i would recomend a Antec 900 or something like that


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kevlo* 
dude i think you need a better case, that case has like no airflow at all, i would recomend a Antec 900 or something like that

The P180 is still a good case. It's no HAF, but it's still good.

It is old though and an upgrade wouldn't hurt.


----------



## Caleo

Quote:


Originally Posted by *iamtheonlystevo* 
Did you use a course sandpaper first? I was considering lapping my 212+, but I've heard the HDT area is extremely thin. I'm afraid to remove too much, so I'll probably go 600grit and higher. I saw a guy somewhere around OCN (or somewhere, hard to remember sometimes) who had put copper RAMsinks all over his heat pipes. Don't recall if it actually did anything; but hey, why not?

I didn't want to take much off either, I started with 400 I think.. Anyway, by the time I was done I noticed that there was part of one of the outer heatpipes that still had original machining on it which means it was never making good contact with the cpu, and still probably won't. I didn't feel like starting again from scratch though (it's not easy to lap a tall heatsink on a flat glass desk).


----------



## MetalBeerSolid

Add me!


----------



## alg33k

Proud owner of CM hyper212+, at first when i saw it for the first time i was like wth? its soo huge (i had never seen after market cooler before).

Running single 120mm fan, With low noise and temperature drop (which seems huge 20+ c) it was worth it. I also ran my cpu at 3.2Ghz without fan running to see if its possible for fanless operation, seems like it.

Installation was not bad, it almost touch side panel of my casing and i had to remove 80mm side fan.

I recommended this cooler to two of my friend who bought X6 1055 and X6 1090.


----------



## mark_thaddeus

Caleo,

What were your temps like after lapping the heatsink? Always wanted to do it just wasn't sure if it's worth it.


----------



## scaz

Does anyone know how a fan shroud would help temps? I found a only antec fan I had that was a ball baring fan, but it's over 38mm wide and is super loud. I am thinking about using it as a shroud as it's way louder than my s-flex


----------



## blackalphabet

i installed my hyper 212+ today, no power supply so i can't run tests yet.
the installation was confusing at first, but then after playing with it, it was simple to install.

i went out to fry's a bought a 2nd 120mm fan, an excalibur fan.
my idea is to use that as an pull fan (closest to exhaust).

is there a better 120mm fan than this? and cheaper? excalibur was like 25 O_O . tax and bull**** included.

would it be better to get two of the same 120mm fans than mix and matching?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Get a second CM BladeMaster to match the one that came with it.


----------



## blackalphabet

the CM blademaster would be better than the excalibur ?


----------



## JumJum

The fan that comes with the 212+, IMO, is garbage. CM R4's are bad and they easily beat the stock fan.


----------



## blackalphabet

so.. which fans would be best or would be the better cooling solution in the push/pull theory, for the 212+ ?


----------



## JumJum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
so.. which fans would be best or would be the better cooling solution in the push/pull theory, for the 212+ ?

well are you looking for maximizing temps or quiet fans? or in the middle?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-088-_-Product

Those would be quiet, yet better then the stock fans in push/pull

or for lowest temps you could get these, although they ARE LOUD..REAL LOUD

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-006-_-Product

EDIT: Just to let you know, deltas will cut fingers off, might even make your PC lift of the ground to..LOL


----------



## hawaiian_geek

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
the CM blademaster would be better than the excalibur ?

The stock CM fan is junk. Buy some high speed Yate Loons or Scythe S-Flex "G" fans or Scythe Gentle Typhoons if you can afford them.

http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa2.html

http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scsfscafan3.html

http://www.petrastechshop.com/12scgetyd1ca1.html

Just my


----------



## blackalphabet

im looking to keep my cpu temp as low as possible, while having the fans run as quiet as it can be ^^


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JumJum* 
The fan that comes with the 212+, IMO, is garbage. CM R4's are bad and they easily beat the stock fan.

Not according to and EHume and Tator Tot they aren't. I'll take their word about it.

Ehume's fan test thread.
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ans-112-a.html

The Blademaster's specifically. Starts with R4's then continues with the BladeMaster.
http://www.overclock.net/9232186-post9.html

For a proper push/pull you would need to go with two of the same fan. The Blademasters are considerably less expensive and are just as good overall, if not slightly better. Basically with the Excalibur you are paying a lot of extra money for the the vented sides which lower the static pressure.

As for the Yate Loons, see Tator Tots view on them vs. the BladeMasters.
http://www.overclock.net/10640631-post57.html

http://www.overclock.net/10640795-post60.html


----------



## blackalphabet

ah i see, so the excalibur is just not worth it's cost, but a good fan.

and the stock fan, blademaster is worth it's cost, and also a good fan?

you would suggest the blademasters?


----------



## JumJum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Not according to and EHume and Tator Tot they aren't. I'll take their word about it.

Ehume's fan test thread.
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ans-112-a.html

The Blademaster's specifically. Starts with R4's then continues with the BladeMaster.
http://www.overclock.net/9232186-post9.html

For a proper push/pull you would need to go with two of the same fan. The Blademasters are considerably less expensive and are just as good overall, if not slightly better. Basically with the Excalibur you are paying a lot of extra money for the the vented sides which lower the static pressure.

As for the Yate Loons, see Tator Tots view on them vs. the BladeMasters.
http://www.overclock.net/10640631-post57.html

http://www.overclock.net/10640795-post60.html

Sorry, was just going by my experiences. I have used R4's in push pull and temps were horrible. Used single Blademaster, temps horrible. Used Antec's Blue LED fans in push/pull and temps were 3-4C lower at load. But the best was a 120MM Delta that beat push/pull by a good 3C more.

EDIT: Blademasters are on sale right now refurbished. Note, if you order they will take almost a week to process your order before it even ships.
http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...roducts_id=420

EDIT AGAIN: Newegg is selling them for $8.99 and $9.99 depending on CFM


----------



## blackalphabet

hmm, i'd rather not with ordering from their site =P. i'll just return the excalibur to fry's and use that money to get a coolermaster blademaster. or something similar to it, i'm sure theres one like it at fry's .


----------



## PapaSmurf

I'm seeing the exact opposite with mine. The Blademaster actually LOWERED temps on my ThermalRight SI-128 by 3-4C compared to the high speed Yate Loon I had been running on it. That tells me something right there. Add that to EHume an Tator Tot's results and recommendations and you see that the Blademaster is an excellent fan.


----------



## JumJum

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I'm seeing the exact opposite with mine. The Blademaster actually LOWERED temps on my ThermalRight SI-128 by 3-4C compared to the high speed Yate Loon I had been running on it. That tells me something right there. Add that to EHume an Tator Tot's results and recommendations and you see that the Blademaster is an excellent fan.

OK, let me correct my self a little...I was a noob when i was first playing around with my 212+...so i could be wrong. Right now im using the 1 Blademaster, and a RED CM fan from a buddies CM Scout when he ripped it out. I know, it sucks, but its in an 24/7 A/C room so i dont have to worry about temps much.


----------



## eddie2020

hi senior.. i might wanna buy 212+..GP or G1 is better?G1 is fan bracket..
and i not sure if i installed the 212+ will it too big and hit on my psu.. this is my picture..








if not mistaken when installed the 212+ wont go up the mobo and hit psu rite? and the 'EPU'word on the mobo should still can be seen?


----------



## Shooter116

Looks like plenty of room for a 212+ to me. Psu looks to be the same distance from your socket as my top exhaust fan is from mine. EPU should still be shown, but maybe not if you look directly at it. Either way, it shouldn't be covered.

I believe the model ending in G1 is the only one being sold right now, and comes with the newer plastic fan brackets as opposed to the metal clips the GP came with.


----------



## eddie2020

but on my country those shop supply GP.. i asking for G1 see its available or not..it should be same price?
and i going for R4-L2R-20CK-GP for dual fan, is it ok?


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
but on my country those shop supply GP.. i asking for G1 see its available or not..it should be same price?
and i going for R4-L2R-20CK-GP for dual fan, is it ok?

You can use a dual-fan setup on either revision.

Both coolers will perform the same, one is just a little more updated. I can't imagine them performing much different from one another. Personally I would use whichever was given to me.

Can't lie though, the G1 does look cooler than the GP with the black clips!


----------



## eddie2020

hmm yours dual? push and pull? stock fan u use on pull or push? and which 2nd fan u use


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
hmm yours dual? push and pull? stock fan u use on pull or push? and which 2nd fan u use

Stock fan is better than the R4 fan. Get another Blademaster 120mm instead of the R4's.


----------



## JumJum

i have mine in push/pull with the stock fan and a red LED fan from a CM scout case.


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
Stock fan is better than the R4 fan. Get another Blademaster 120mm instead of the R4's.

hehe..i know blademaster cfm better,but the R4 looks cool with LED..
R4 if compare stock fan which higher CFM? so i know which to put as push..

btw i have noob question 
this means my ram running in dual channel rite? as my picture above earlier post can see my ram placed on top.. i read some thread in other forum confused me on the Dual channel ><


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
hehe..i know blademaster cfm better,but the R4 looks cool with LED..

No, the static pressure of the Blademaster is superior. That's what makes it a good heatsink fan.

Load your case with R4's but keep Blademasters on the heatsink.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
No, the static pressure of the Blademaster is superior. That's what makes it a good heatsink fan.

Load your case with R4's but keep Blademasters on the heatsink.

Exactly. +1


----------



## blackalphabet

looks like stock 212+ fans (blademasters) are the overall winner?

i'm going to return this excalibur fan and look for these blademasters at frys after work.

oh and this is the excalibur fans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...cm%20excalibur


----------



## PapaSmurf

If they don't have the Blademasters, and I don't think they do, you can order them from SVC for $6.99 ea.
http://www.svc.com/r4-bmbs-20pk-r0.html

While you are at it, if you want to run with PWM enabled for your fans order the PWM Fan Y Adaptor for $2.75 and run them both off of the same fan header. Again, this is from Tator Tot.
http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12bks.html


----------



## blackalphabet

whats PWM ?

Quote:

While you are at it, if you want to run with PWM enabled for your fans order the PWM Fan Y Adaptor for $2.75 and run them both off of the same fan header. Again, this is from Tator Tot.
http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12bks.html
and what if i dont want to run both fans on the same fan headers?
just wondering what my other option is and does =P


----------



## PapaSmurf

PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) is the way that a motherboards bios can control the fan speed according to the temperature. Fan headers and fans with 4 small pins instead of 3 are PWM. You don't have to use it if you don't want to. It's just an option that many people like to use. The advantage of the Y adaptor and hooking both fans up to the same header is they would then be controlled as one unit and would allow the Push/Pull to work more efficiently. If you don't use PWM then just hook each fan up to a separate header.

See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fan_control for more details on PWM Fans.


----------



## blackalphabet

ah i see now, didnt know that. i wonder if fry's has the wire i need.

does it have to be a PWM fan Y adapter? or just a Y adapter?
i dont wanna wait for the slow shipping for the wire, when bought online


----------



## PapaSmurf

If it's just a 3 wire adapter you won't have fan speed control. That requires all 4 pins be connected.


----------



## blackalphabet

so i need to make sure i get the 4 pin y adapter , correct?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Right.


----------



## K10

What are the dimensions of the Hyper 212 Plus?

I usually go to newegg to see but it only has the dimensions of the fan itself.


----------



## PapaSmurf

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6603


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
No, the static pressure of the Blademaster is superior. That's what makes it a good heatsink fan.

Load your case with R4's but keep Blademasters on the heatsink.

the stock fan come with blade master? and add on use blademaster too?
now i considering blademasters and R4 fan..
my budget is tight..i will get either 1 only..and i dont need fan for my case,cause my case open air..

blademasters better performance but looks ugly,while R4 looks cool with LED but lower performance..

hmm...which too take


----------



## PapaSmurf

Depends on what you value more and what you are doing with your system. If you are overclocking then the only logical choice is the superior performing BladeMaster's over the flashy glitz of the LED's. If you don't overclock then either would be okay.


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
the stock fan come with blade master? and add on use blademaster too?
now i considering blademasters and R4 fan..
my budget is tight..i will get either 1 only..and i dont need fan for my case,cause my case open air..

blademasters better performance but looks ugly,while R4 looks cool with LED but lower performance..

hmm...which too take









As I tell everyone, you can replace the case fans with LED fans for the flashyness, but the heatsink wants better performance.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
As I tell everyone, you can replace the case fans with LED fans for the flashyness, but the heatsink wants better performance.

Agreed.

Just out of curiosity, how much difference are you seeing going from just 1 BladeMaster to 2 in a P/P setup?


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Agreed.

Just out of curiosity, how much difference are you seeing going from just 1 BladeMaster to 2 in a P/P setup?

About 2-3Â°c probably. It can't be determined exactly because everyones case airflow and components are different. 1 person might only get 1Â°c cut off, another might get 5Â°c cut off.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I completely understand. Just trying to gather some information from others about their experiences.


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I completely understand. Just trying to gather some information from others about their experiences.

Well I personally haven't even tested the 212+ with a single fan. I put both on right when I got the cooler.


----------



## eddie2020

i going for dual fan blade master..LED fan i dont want buy..out of budget..


----------



## damocles

hi, i wonder if this cooler will fit in a cooler master Haf 912.?

Thanks


----------



## PapaSmurf

It fits in a CM Elite 330, Centurion 5, and a 590 so I can't see why it wouldn't fit in a 912.


----------



## blackalphabet

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
i going for dual fan blade master..LED fan i dont want buy..out of budget..

frys had like 4 regular coolermaster fans R4 without LED lights for 14.99 (4-pack) and it also had the R4 with LED lights for 9.99 a 2-pack

i ended buying a blademaster from the svc site along with the 4 pin y adapter =P .

is the 212+ fan suppose to be spinning fast? or just medium? mine looks like its spinning regularly, medium.


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:



Originally Posted by *blackalphabet*


frys had like 4 regular coolermaster fans R4 without LED lights for 14.99 (4-pack) and it also had the R4 with LED lights for 9.99 a 2-pack

i ended buying a blademaster from the svc site along with the 4 pin y adapter =P .

is the 212+ fan suppose to be spinning fast? or just medium? mine looks like its spinning regularly, medium.


depend the pin...4pin if u plug to mobo the speed can control..
if u connect straight to psu then the speed is max speed...

btw i have 1 question..the blademaster 120mm is 4pin rite? i wan plug in to my mobo but my mobo (M4A785TD V EVO) only got 4pin(cpu)x1, 3pin chasis x1 ,3pin fan x1
the 2nd fan of the heatsink should plug into where?


----------



## farmdve

Can anyone tell me about how this cooler does with the sig rig? or at least the same cpu because i am thinking of buying


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:


Originally Posted by *farmdve* 
Can anyone tell me about how this cooler does with the sig rig? or at least the same cpu because i am thinking of buying

wow your cpu so hot...it should be under 62C...
http://products.amd.com/en-us/Deskto...&id=682&id=532


----------



## farmdve

Yes i know, but it is a fact that the temps have been way over a lot of times and i am forced on Cool n Quiet to stay at low temps thus i cant play a single game, or even run a proper virus scan


----------



## eddie2020

i think better get a cpu cooler compared to the stock 1..quite number of people choose hyper 212+ best bang per buck..
my cpu when gaming temperature go up 64 and i worry about it...59-60 is mostly when loading..now i order 212+ and waiting for postage


----------



## farmdve

I intend to get the 212+, but i want someone here, who is experienced to give me some info on how it performs and temps at idle/load. I plan to use it at my stock speeds at least for now(no plan to oc)
I already pmed a person asking about this and hopefully he will answer.
And one thing i failed to understand, is it the CPU that should not get above 62C or is it the cores?


----------



## scaz

My mother board won't let me go past 4.0ghz, but a 3.9ghz my cpu stays below 52c. I do have a great computer case and fans.


----------



## eddie2020

cpu= central processing unit / core..AMD phenom II x4 955 is your cpu..
i have some question
you guys apply spread or pea method thermal on your cpu? only apply 1 side cpu or apply cpu with heatsink 2 side?

and 1 more is thermal paste..any solution to clean old thermal paste?must use alcohol? can other thing inside house can be used?


----------



## JumJum

i fill in the lines of the cooler, then place a tiny dot on the CPU. Now when i say i fill in the lines, i mean i put a tiny line of tim in the wholes from the HS pipes.


----------



## pifive

add me to the list I do have Hyper 212+, Hyper 212 and Hyper TX2







... Hyper 212 imo is biggest.


----------



## farmdve

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
cpu= central processing unit / core..AMD phenom II x4 955 is your cpu..
i have some question
you guys apply spread or pea method thermal on your cpu? only apply 1 side cpu or apply cpu with heatsink 2 side?

and 1 more is thermal paste..any solution to clean old thermal paste?must use alcohol? can other thing inside house can be used?

Yes i know what a CPU is, but since the CPU temps differs from the core temps(etc the cores are hotter) i want to know which should be kept low


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:


Originally Posted by *farmdve* 
Yes i know what a CPU is, but since the CPU temps differs from the core temps(etc the cores are hotter) i want to know which should be kept low

sorry dont really get your mean.. i thought core 1 2 3 4 mostly around same temperature? i see most large different between my core only 1C ..


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JumJum* 
i fill in the lines of the cooler, then place a tiny dot on the CPU. Now when i say i fill in the lines, i mean i put a tiny line of tim in the wholes from the HS pipes.

hmm.. i heard people tell me most good is pea / dot on center of cpu if the base of heatsink is flat..
212+ not flat rite? they say using spread on cpu is better


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
hmm.. i heard people tell me most good is pea / dot on center of cpu if the base of heatsink is flat..
212+ not flat rite? they say using spread on cpu is better

Something like this -> http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...temps-may.html

More info from on TIM application methods -> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *blackalphabet* 
i ended buying a blademaster from the svc site along with the 4 pin y adapter =P .

is the 212+ fan suppose to be spinning fast? or just medium? mine looks like its spinning regularly, medium.

If you have Smart Fan Control enabled in the bios it will only spin the fan as fast as it thinks it needs to. If you want it to spin full speed all of the time disable Smart Fan. It should spin up to around 2000RPM or so.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
depend the pin...4pin if u plug to mobo the speed can control..
if u connect straight to psu then the speed is max speed...

See above. It isn't necessary to connect directly to the PSU.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
btw i have 1 question..the blademaster 120mm is 4pin rite? i wan plug in to my mobo but my mobo (M4A785TD V EVO) only got 4pin(cpu)x1, 3pin chasis x1 ,3pin fan x1
the 2nd fan of the heatsink should plug into where?

Any of the 3pins if you want it to spin at full speed. If you want to use PWM to control both of them get a 4pin PWM Y splitter to plug both into the CPU header.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
cpu= central processing unit / core..AMD phenom II x4 955 is your cpu..
i have some question
you guys apply spread or pea method thermal on your cpu? only apply 1 side cpu or apply cpu with heatsink 2 side?

and 1 more is thermal paste..any solution to clean old thermal paste?must use alcohol? can other thing inside house can be used?

Use ISOPROPYL Aclcohol to clean the cpu and heat sink surface. Do NOT use Rubbing alcohol, fingernail polish remover, or any other household products to clean them. Most of them contain some sort of petroluem by product that will leave an oily residue that will act as an insulator and cause temps to INCREASE.

Use this guide to apply your TIM to a heatsink like this.


----------



## eddie2020

this is the nail polish remover ingredient acetone,purified water,butyl acetate ,tecopheryl acetate ,cl42090

i think the blademaster fan come with those adapter









sorry..from the guide i dont fully understand.. is it 2 drop is better?
can straight to the point which method is the best for 212+ ?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Go back and read my post again. It tells you EXACTLY what to use to clean your cpu and heatsink and the guide shows you EXACTLY how to apply the TIM. If you can't figure it out from that guide you need to have someone who can do it for you.


----------



## DeadOfKnight

Hey I just ordered the system listed below, any advice before I start overclocking?


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DeadOfKnight* 
Hey I just ordered the system listed below, any advice before I start overclocking?

Read a lot so you understand everything you should know. That's really the only advice that can be given for overclocking. Should be a breeze with what you ordered.


----------



## eddie2020

@papa
EXACTLY best method is 2 line method right?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
@papa
EXACTLY best method is 2 line method right?









Yes, that is part of it. First you need to use a credit card or similar item to cram some of the TIM into the crevices.


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Yes, that is part of it. First you need to use a credit card or similar item to cram some of the TIM into the crevices.

hmm..i am a little noob in english.. i thought drop it with the thermal and pull little will make the line? if i cram abit with the applicator will it create bubble?

i buy this thermal for my 212+
http://www.xigmatek.com/product.php?...48&type=review


----------



## PapaSmurf

I have no idea if that stuff is any good or not. I always use Arctic Cooling MX2. And no, if you do it right it will NOT create a bubble.


----------



## eddie2020

you apply on heat sink only? how about your cpu?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Heatsink Only on this type.


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Heatsink Only on this type.

orh..apply heatsink and fix it into cpu..
which type need apply on both side?


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
orh..apply heatsink and fix it into cpu..
which type need apply on both side?

With heatpipe direct touch coolers you put small lines in between the heat pipes. With solid flat base coolers you just put a pea size dab in the center of the CPU.


----------



## farmdve

Instead of taking a picture here is the case i have and plan to put 212+ in



The question is will the heatsink fit inside? The width of the case is about 17,5cm and the 212+ is about 16cm


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Confessed* 
With heatpipe direct touch coolers you put small lines in between the heat pipes. With solid flat base coolers you just put a pea size dab in the center of the CPU.

orh..noted..thx


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:


Originally Posted by *farmdve* 
Instead of taking a picture here is the case i have and plan to put 212+ in



The question is will the heatsink fit inside? The width of the case is about 17,5cm and the 212+ is about 16cm

my case is smaller..i keep the side open.. if fit also left a little space only..the mobo thick and socket also i think around 2cm


----------



## farmdve

Well, the thing is, that the case will not stay opened( i doubt i will have permission lol)


----------



## eddie2020

what type of tower is that? can show the product link?


----------



## PapaSmurf

It just fits in my CM Elite 330, but not by much. It's 7.4" wide (16.66cm).

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/prod...roduct_id=2708


----------



## Antarktikali

Hey add me to the list I got my 212 yesterday ^^ I would also appreciate if you guys help me cooling it, got a few problems. Here


----------



## eddie2020

solved..add me in to list.. blademaster dual push pull


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
btw,the Blademaster which come with CM212+ i got 2...mean dual fan.. its 4pin..and my mobo got only got cpu 4pin..the rest is 3pin..how to solve it? the 2nd fan 4pin but i have no adapter

You can plug 4 pin into a 3 pin header, you just won't have PWM control. You need a PWM splitter or a fan controller.

http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12.html


----------



## eddie2020

ok thx...i got 1 more problem...
just now i fixing my 212+ and when screw the leg i moved the heatsink..its normal rite?
update: my temperature around 36 idle - 54 Stability test with AMD overdrive..its this ok?
i from malaysia

now i having problem to stick the fan on the heatsink..the clip how work? help me~ TT

solved












stupid pin lol


----------



## Dadius

Just installed my 212+ 3 days ago with Arctic Silver 5. 28-30c idle and 46-48c load in prime 95 so far for my i7 950 at stock speed.

Are those good enough temps to leave it be and start ocing?


----------



## Confessed

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dadius* 
Just installed my 212+ 3 days ago with Arctic Silver 5. 28-30c idle and 46-48c load in prime 95 so far for my i7 950 at stock speed.

Are those good enough temps to leave it be and start ocing?

Post max core temps after a few minutes of LinX or 20 minutes of 95.


----------



## eddie2020

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dadius*


Just installed my 212+ 3 days ago with Arctic Silver 5. 28-30c idle and 46-48c load in prime 95 so far for my i7 950 at stock speed.

Are those good enough temps to leave it be and start ocing?


wow...nice temperature..which country you from? and your room temperature

linx i go the thread last update is last year..latest version is last year?
prime 95 server down.. i cant download 26.2


----------



## Dadius

20 min of 95 saw 45c - 49c

Im in Canada, room temp is 20c.


----------



## Confessed

Well those are great temps. You should get a nice OC.


----------



## Dadius

Well I bumped it up to 3.45, normal voltages, XMP on, turbo on BCLK 150. Mem multiplier 10, uncore20, qpi 36

Idle temps went up about 2 degrees but load temps seem identical.


----------



## HarbingerOfLive

I love this cooler, it is huge, and that is a good and bad thing, but it is worth it. beats the hell out of the stock coolers


----------



## Depressed

Just picked up a 121+.









It's been dreadful using the stock cooler for the past week. Will post temps, etc, once I have it all up and running.


----------



## Dadius

Just checked with core temp. Now 34 -37 idle, 61-68 load in prime 95.


----------



## chano305

Now THIS looks like the place to ask my questions..









I've had a 212+ for about a month now, loving it so far. I idle at ~40C, load temp ~67C with Prime95.

Stock i7-930, HAF 922 with extra 200mm side fan. Are these temps ok? I looked around this thread and some of you guys are WAYYY below what I am. Is there something wrong?

Room temp is 25-27C


----------



## Dadius

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chano305*


Now THIS looks like the place to ask my questions..









I've had a 212+ for about a month now, loving it so far. I idle at ~40C, load temp ~67C with Prime95.

Stock i7-930, HAF 922 with extra 200mm side fan. Are these temps ok? I looked around this thread and some of you guys are WAYYY below what I am. Is there something wrong?

Room temp is 25-27C


Your load temps look like mine @3.45 actually. According to HW monitor and core temp. The "great" temps I was getting before was was just a result of not using the proper program to monitor them. Noob mistake I guess.

Bios says a 34c idle for me. (Room temp for me is like 20c)

I just undervolted a bit though and dropped 5c off load temp. Load temp with prime 95 is now ~63c @ 3.45ghz.


----------



## chano305

Hmm. Should I try reseating the heatsink? It was my first time, probably went haywire with the thermal paste. Hopefully that'll do it.

Since this heatsink has pipes running parallel to each other, should I stick the the BB of thermal paste? Or do a thin line running perpendicular to the heatpipes, to ensure they are all getting contacted? Or should I just spread it myself?

On cleaning the old good off, I've heard using Isopropyl ethanol is fine, with Q-tips. Do I need to remove the cpu from the mobo socket, or leave it in?


----------



## Dadius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chano305* 
Hmm. Should I try reseating the heatsink? It was my first time, probably went haywire with the thermal paste. Hopefully that'll do it.

Since this heatsink has pipes running parallel to each other, should I stick the the BB of thermal paste? Or do a thin line running perpendicular to the heatpipes, to ensure they are all getting contacted? Or should I just spread it myself?

On cleaning the old good off, I've heard using Isopropyl ethanol is fine, with Q-tips. Do I need to remove the cpu from the mobo socket, or leave it in?

Being a noob myself, I just used AS5 and did exactly what it said to here:

http://www.arcticsilver.com/methods.html

I never even installed the stock cooler to begin with, went straight to hyper 212 + and AS5.

Are your temps for stock speed?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Don't use AS5 as it isn't as efficient, takes 2 weeks or longer to break in if you follow the instructions (it will NEVER break in properly if you just leave the system running 24/7), and needs to be replaced once every year or so. Use IC7 or Arctic Cooling MX2, 3, or 4.

Use this guide to apply your TIM. The last method seems to be the most effective.


----------



## Dadius

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Don't use AS5 as it isn't as efficient, takes 2 weeks or longer to break in if you follow the instructions (it will NEVER break in properly if you just leave the system running 24/7), and needs to be replaced once every year or so. Use IC7 or Arctic Cooling MX2, 3, or 4.

Use this guide to apply your TIM. The last method seems to be the most effective.

I started a thread not too long ago asking about AS5 OR MX3. Opinions seem to be mixed. I had already bought AS5 by then though.

What is this guide you speak of?

Edit: I now see I think you were talking about the arcticsilver guide I posted ... nm


----------



## PapaSmurf

Sorry about the guide. I forgot to add the link. It's fixed now. And no, it wasn't the Arctic Silver Guide. That doesn't work properly on a heatsink like the 212+ with Direct Touch HeatPipe heatsinks.


----------



## george1000

Here's mine:


----------



## MetalBeerSolid

Can I be added please?


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Sorry about the guide. I forgot to add the link. It's fixed now. And no, it wasn't the Arctic Silver Guide. That doesn't work properly on a heatsink like the 212+ with Direct Touch HeatPipe heatsinks.

Would you say that you should not use the single line method and apply NO AS 5 to the CPU and only apply 2 small lines on the 212+ base only???

I am thinking of re-seating my cooler to get better temps. Currently at the moderate OC i have, I get 30c idle and 72c under full load LinX or IBT. I think that is way too high for the 3.48Ghz i have at Auto voltages.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Do EXACTLY what the last method in that guide states. That is the best way to do it.

And do NOT use AS5. Use something better like Arctic Cooling MX2, 3, or 4; IC7 Diamond, or Shin Etsu X23 if you feel like overpaying. AS5 takes WAY to long to break in. It needs over two weeks time to break in and cure during which the computer must be left off for at least an hour to cool down at least once per day (better if it is turned off 4 times or more per day) or it will NEVER properly break in. Since it takes so long to break in you won't know if you applied it incorrectly for a minimum of two weeks. That is simply unacceptable when there are better products that setup within a few minutes. AS5 is more marketing hype than anything else now that there are vastly superior products on the market.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

All that I have on hand is AS5 or the Stock TIM that came with the 212+....I'm gonna reseat it with AS5 for now since I believe that it will still outperform the stock compound, even if the break in period is longer. Will buy an Arctic Cooling MX TIM when I can.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If your 212+ came with the same TIM mine did it is as good if not better than AS5.


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If your 212+ came with the same TIM mine did it is as good if not better than AS5.


A lot of people don't realize how good the paste that comes with this cooler is. I reseated my heatsink with MX3 recently and saw barely any difference in temperature. Not saying that it's the best, but it seems that if you don't already have some "better" paste that you intend on using, just use the TF400.


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Reseated and used the AS5 anyways...







figured since it was $10, why let it go to waste... I applied it in the method mentioned on BenchMark Reviews and do have slightly better temps.

If I ever need to apply again, I'll just use the stock paste and hang on to the AS5 as a backup or for use with another cooler if needed. Thanks for the advice, it seemed to work!


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you turn the system off for 3 or 4 periods of about 30 minutes to an hour daily you should see a drop in temps of 3 to 5C in a couple of weeks if it spread correctly.


----------



## chano305

Hi all! Another proud owner of a CM Hyper 212+









I currently idle at about 40C (thats my highest core, the others move around from 35-40, might need to reseat..)

What do you all recommend for a second fan? Planning to OC a bit soon. Price/Performance/Quiet but not necessarily in that order, open to suggestions.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Get a second Blademaster from SVC for $7 + shipping to match the Blademaster that it came with.
http://www.svc.com/r4-bmbs-20pk-r0.htm

Add the 4pin PWM Y adapter from SVC for $3 shipped and your motherboard can control both fans via PWM.


----------



## CrustyJuggler

Just got my Hyper 212 Pro installed yesterday! Now I can OC my unlocked X2 550 BE!


----------



## CrustyJuggler

Just installed my Hyper 212+ yesterday. Should I swap out the stock fan and use my 120x120x38 Panaflo FBA12G12L?


----------



## D3FiN3 SiN

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrustyJuggler* 
Just installed my Hyper 212+ yesterday. Should I swap out the stock fan and use my 120x120x38 Panaflo FBA12G12L?

Yes.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrustyJuggler* 
Just installed my Hyper 212+ yesterday. Should I swap out the stock fan and use my 120x120x38 Panaflo FBA12G12L?

No. The Medium speed is only 1C cooler on a Megahelm than the stock CM Blademaster that comes with the 212+. It's highly doubtful that the Low Speed that you have would be able to perform as well as the stock Blademaster.


----------



## Blazing angel

Hello all fellow hyper 212+ owners!
I simply have a few questions about the installation of the TIM.
Should I use the sixth and seventh pictures' method for the 212? does it work well?
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

I've also purhcased the newly released artic cooling mxx-3. This tim id fairly hard to spread (view this video, mx-3 is the third paste: http://www.hardwareheaven.com/review...-vicosity.html ).

thanks inadvance,
I will now scour this thread for anything that will answer my questions


----------



## Confessed

The last method on that page is best. Small lines in between the heat pipes. So with the 212+, 3 lines instead of 2.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes, the bottom method is the preferred method.

MX-3 is excellent, but if you have a problem with it being too thick heat it up with a hair dryer first to make it easier to work with. This is why I much prefer MX-2 instead of MX-3.

And the TIM that comes with the 212+ is excellent. I doubt if you would find more than 1C difference between it and the MX-3, if that much. It's also easier to work with.


----------



## Blazing angel

I can return my mx-3 for mx-2 if required. the difference is 4 dollars. What do oyu guys think? i really dont trust the stock tim


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
I can return my mx-3 for mx-2 if required. the difference is 4 dollars. What do oyu guys think? i really dont trust the stock tim









Then you are foolish as it is EXCELLENT. It out performs AS-5 and most of the other more popular TIM's and is easy to apply.

I would definitely swap MX-3 for MX-2 or MX-4 in a heartbeat.


----------



## HotWasabiPeas

Ok what's the best method for cleaning the thermal paste from the base of the 212+? I find that it's almost impossible to get all of the remnants of paste cleaned out from in between the pipes. Is it ok if some remains? I have always used flat base coolers, like Zalman's, and those are easy to clean off completely. This is my first direct-contact heatpipe cooler.

The only reason I ask is that I think I will try and reapply some MX-3. Maybe I didn't apply it correctly, although I did do the 2 line method. Right now Asus PC Probe II shows the CPU temp at 39C (CoreTemp shows 27C). To me 39C seems a bit high. I am not doing any overclocking except for using Asus Turbo Unlocker, which dynamically overclocks each of the 6 cores, and I have CnQ off. Are my temps too high?

By the way here are my pics:


----------



## LUZR4LIFE

Here is mine. I have 2 Ultra Kaze's on it. They only seem to run at 2777rpm's. I had to Xigmatek's on it running at 41C and went down to around 34C with the Ultra Kaze's.


----------



## Blazing angel

I can't return the mx 3, only perform a exchange
I'll think I'll jus keep the mx 3

Someone mentioned heating up the paste after the application
I also mentioned a guide a few posts earlier. Would it be a bad idea to put the lines of paste ontye copper heatsink instead of the space between the copper?
My 212 came with a plastic fan mount
Would it be hard to install a fan after the 212 is installed?
It's my first build, I'm a bi nervous
The reason I dint want to use the stock Tim is because I believe it is electrically conductive
I want to be cautious


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas* 
Ok what's the best method for cleaning the thermal paste from the base of the 212+? I find that it's almost impossible to get all of the remnants of paste cleaned out from in between the pipes. Is it ok if some remains? I have always used flat base coolers, like Zalman's, and those are easy to clean off completely. This is my first direct-contact heatpipe cooler.

The only reason I ask is that I think I will try and reapply some MX-3. Maybe I didn't apply it correctly, although I did do the 2 line method. Right now Asus PC Probe II shows the CPU temp at 39C (CoreTemp shows 27C). To me 39C seems a bit high. I am not doing any overclocking except for using Asus Turbo Unlocker, which dynamically overclocks each of the 6 cores, and I have CnQ off. Are my temps too high?

By the way here are my pics:

 

I used a cotton swab and rubbing alcohol to really get deep down in between the copper and the aluminum gaps. Use some wet and some dry for the best effect. Let it dry and rub any excess fibers out with a lint free cloth as best you can. It seemed safe for me since my temps dropped by a few degrees in total.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *HotWasabiPeas* 
Ok what's the best method for cleaning the thermal paste from the base of the 212+?
By the way here are my pics:

Use an old toothbrush and some Isopropyl Alcohol to clean it. NEVER under any circumstances use Rubbing Alcohol as it contains petroleum by products that act as an insulator causing higher temps. ONLY use ISOPROPYL Alcohol.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
I can't return the mx 3, only perform a exchange
I'll think I'll jus keep the mx 3

Someone mentioned heating up the paste after the application
I also mentioned a guide a few posts earlier. Would it be a bad idea to put the lines of paste ontye copper heatsink instead of the space between the copper?
My 212 came with a plastic fan mount
Would it be hard to install a fan after the 212 is installed?
It's my first build, I'm a bi nervous

Use the bottom method in the guide posted above and use 3 lines instead of 2 due to the number of heatpipes.

And yes, it's VERY easy to install the fan with the heatsink in place. That's by design.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Use an old toothbrush and some Isopropyl Alcohol to clean it. NEVER under any circumstances use Rubbing Alcohol as it contains petroleum by products that act as an insulator causing higher temps. ONLY use ISOPROPYL Alcohol.

Use the bottom method in the guide posted above and use 3 lines instead of 2 due to the number of heatpipes.

And yes, it's VERY easy to install the fan with the heatsink in place. That's by design.

thanks.








My 212 came with plastic clips isntead of small metal ones. Would this make it harder?

Also, ok, three thin strips of tim. Should i put it on the copper or metal inbetween the heatpipes?


----------



## CrustyJuggler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


No. The Medium speed is only 1C cooler on a Megahelm than the stock CM Blademaster that comes with the 212+. It's highly doubtful that the Low Speed that you have would be able to perform as well as the stock Blademaster.


Thanks for all the feedback.

Does the Blademaster run at full speed if I have fan control turned off in my BIOS or at medium speed? My Panaflo is rated at 69cfm vs the Blademaster's 76 assuming it can push that amount while attached to the sink.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


thanks.








My 212 came with plastic clips isntead of small metal ones. Would this make it harder?


Let's see. You mentioned having the plastic ones in the post I replied to where I stated that yes, it is easy to to do it. What part of that did you not understand?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*


Also, ok, three thin strips of tim. Should i put it on the copper or metal inbetween the heatpipes?


What does it show in the guide?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CrustyJuggler*


Thanks for all the feedback.

Does the Blademaster run at full speed if I have fan control turned off in my BIOS or at medium speed? My Panaflo is rated at 69cfm vs the Blademaster's 76 assuming it can push that amount while attached to the sink.


It will run at full speed.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Let's see. You mentioned having the plastic ones in the post I replied to where I stated that yes, it is easy to to do it. What part of that did you not understand?

What does it show in the guide?

It will run at full speed.


Sorry , i was really tried, and skimmed through your reply (and forgot what I wrote). Sorry again









I was also simply wondering if i would yeld better results with application on the copper pipes


----------



## Coolman4now

- May I join you PLZ.


----------



## CrustyJuggler

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


It will run at full speed.


Sweet. I might test with my panaflo just so see of there is a difference in temps. One never knows till the proof is in the pudding.


----------



## PapaSmurf

True. It's always a good idea to test things out for oneself. Plus, it can be great fun.


----------



## ocman

Hi everyone, can anyone confirm with me that CM Hyper 212 Plus is a low cost high performance cpu cooler for overclocking CPUs? Thanks in advance!


----------



## PapaSmurf

As has been stated numerous times in this thread yes. It is the one of, if not the best bang for your buck cpu cooler period. I can get my Q9550 up to 4.4+ GHz with it. To get any better performance you'll need to spend at least twice as much. The fan it comes with is top notch and the TIM is with 1C of any other you would buy which makes it an even better deal overall as you do NOT need to spend money to replace the fan or the TIM.


----------



## ocman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
As has been stated numerous times in this thread yes. It is the one of, if not the best bang for your buck cpu cooler period. I can get my Q9550 up to 4.4+ GHz with it. To get any better performance you'll need to spend at least twice as much. The fan it comes with is top notch and the TIM is with 1C of any other you would buy which makes it an even better deal overall as you do NOT need to spend money to replace the fan or the TIM.

Thanks PapaSmurf! YES!!! I'm RIGHT!!! The sales guy was telling my friend that the cooler wasn't good for OC'ing... I thought to myself... WHAT??? (He also said the fan was noisy too... and recommended us to get Noctua... okay... that a no-brainer... LOL)

If it only cost $20 buck to get CM Hyper 212+ now... will the price will go even lower in future? Like buy now or buy later? Thanks in advance!!!


----------



## PapaSmurf

I doubt it will go lower, but it is a remote possibility. The lowest I've seen it recently is about $27 with shipping so if you can get them for $20 I would grab a couple.


----------



## ocman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
I doubt it will go lower, but it is a remote possibility. The lowest I've seen it recently is about $27 with shipping so if you can get them for $20 I would grab a couple.

Wow... grab a couple so I can use some and sell some? Good idea!









The thing is that I got H-50 already... I guess I can use one on my Celeron D 340J.


----------



## PapaSmurf

There is a very good chance that the 212+ will outperform the H50.


----------



## ocman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
There is a very good chance that the 212+ will outperform the H50.

My GOD!!! Are you serious? How can I set one up to beat H-50? Push/Pull fans config? I would be so excited to get to know...







How about fan noise?

I've skimmed the thermal paste application method reference link posted earlier.


----------



## Blazing angel

I a h50 has proper air flow, it will out preform a 212+


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Blazing angel* 
I a h50 has proper air flow, it will out preform a 212+

It costs more than twice as much, and comparing the stock fan for the H50 and the 212+, the 212+ comes with a better one. Your point?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Use a pair of Blademaster fans like the ones that come on a 212+ on the H50 in PP and it will perform considerably better, but not as well as the 212+ with the same two Blademasters in PP. That's been the consensus of opinion for most users. But no matter what, the H50 falls flat on it's face when you really push the OC on them and is easily outperformed by tower air coolers with equal fans.


----------



## ocman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Use a pair of Blademaster fans like the ones that come on a 212+ on the H50 in PP and it will perform considerably better, but not as well as the 212+ with the same two Blademasters in PP. That's been the consensus of opinion for most users. But no matter what, the H50 falls flat on it's face when you really push the OC on them and is easily outperformed by tower air coolers with equal fans.

Umm... so was I sucker that I bought H-50 in January instead of Hyper212+, CoolIT's, or Ultra's...???

I was looking for a low cost great performance liquid cpu cooler...


----------



## Cokezzz

I have been following this thread for awhile as I recently purchased my own 212+ for my 955BE. New to the forums and very itchy to start OC'ing. Unfortunately, I also purchased AS5 and am currently suffering the hell that is 2 weeks+ of curing. I am considering reseating w/ the stock TIM that comes w/ the cooler as recommended by PapaSmurf and many other members from various threads.

But I do have a question though, following the guide posted, should I be tinting the CPU w/ the TIM as well? Or should I stick to just filling in the gaps between the pipes and using the line method w/ a clean CPU? Thanks in advance!

Yay, first post! D:


----------



## ocman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cokezzz* 
I have been following this thread for awhile as I recently purchased my own 212+ for my 955BE. New to the forums and very itchy to start OC'ing. Unfortunately, I also purchased AS5 and am currently suffering the hell that is 2 weeks+ of curing. I am considering reseating w/ the stock TIM that comes w/ the cooler as recommended by PapaSmurf and many other members from various threads.

But I do have a question though, following the guide posted, should I be tinting the CPU w/ the TIM as well? Or should I stick to just filling in the gaps between the pipes and using the line method w/ a clean CPU? Thanks in advance!

Yay, first post! D:

Hi Cokezzz, filling in both surface would sound right to me... just make sure you don't put too thick of thermal paste... probably fine layer with around 0.5mm thick is fine or less than 1 mm in total thickness at most... IMO.









Welcome to OCN Cokezzz!!!









Everyone, excuse me for doing this here...









Cokezzz, please have your system info filled out using this link, so others can better assist you while you don't need to type up you system spec again and again.









Happy Overclocking!!!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Cokezzz* 
I have been following this thread for awhile as I recently purchased my own 212+ for my 955BE. New to the forums and very itchy to start OC'ing. Unfortunately, I also purchased AS5 and am currently suffering the hell that is 2 weeks+ of curing. I am considering reseating w/ the stock TIM that comes w/ the cooler as recommended by PapaSmurf and many other members from various threads.

But I do have a question though, following the guide posted, should I be tinting the CPU w/ the TIM as well? Or should I stick to just filling in the gaps between the pipes and using the line method w/ a clean CPU? Thanks in advance!

Yay, first post! D:

NO, do not tint the cpu. That will more than likely cause air bubbles. Just fill in the gaps and use the 3 line method outlined in the guide. That's what we have been saying all along so I don't understand why people keep questioning it with other options.


----------



## chano305

I went ahead with recommendations from here and bought (or should say ordered..) a second blade master 120mm fan for my Hyper 212+.

However, SVC.com confirmed the order and saw fit to send me a

 Cooler Master Excalibur
instead. Should I be angry? Or did I get a free upgrade? No idea







hope you guys can let me know. If it IS better, which should I put in push, and which in pull: my stock fan vs the excalibur.

On a second note: Oh no's!!!

Just noticed my Hyper 212+ didn't come with metal clips. Instead, the fan had built in plastic clips. I routinely keep every bit of anything I buy in my closet, and can't find clips anywhere. How do I mount the second fan?!


----------



## PapaSmurf

There should have been a second set of clips in the packaging. I know there was in mine.

I would use the Exc. as the pull fan. I personally don't think it's as good as the BladeMaster due to decreased static preasure, but it might be okay for the pull side. If it doesn't work out I would contact SVC about it. Once you get a hold of them they have excellent customer service.


----------



## chano305

By pull fan, I'm assuming you mean the fan that pulls air FROM the cooler as opposed to pushing it in. In other words, just add the new fan to the side that doesn't have one right now







correct?

Nope, definitely no clips that I can find. I'm normally really good about keeping stuff for future use, hard to believe I tossed them... cripes. Any alternative and SAFE ways of attaching the second fan? Any way to contact Cooler Master and get a spare set of clips? Ideas welcome!

EDIT: as an extra side-story, I had originally rigged a filter for my side fan out of a single layer of cut latex panty hose. I removed it today out of curiosity.. idle temps dropped like 4 degrees!


----------



## jetpuck73

I would contact Cooler Master and see if they can send you the clip.


----------



## chano305

Further update: I'm a moron, didn't occur to me that since my stock fan came with PLASTIC clips to use to attach, that I should be looking for spare PLASTIC clips in my spare's box, not metal ones. It's been a while since I've been that stoo-pid.

So, go ahead and use the Excalibur as a pull fan? Or call SVC and gripe?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Go to the Coolermaster support site and see about getting them. It will probably take two or three weeks for them to get them to you if you are lucky. If not you might not even get a response from them in that amount of time. CM customer support is really deplorable.

And yes, put the second fan to do exactly what it says, to PULL the air away from the heatsink. If you installed the fan that came with it in it's stick position it is PUSHING air into the fins. Original fan -> heatsink -> New fan -> back of case.

You can try some zip ties or wire ties to attach the second fan.

EDIT: Try the Excalibur. If you don't like it contact SVC and see what they have to say. They'll probably send you the BladeMaster and tell you to keep the Excalibur.


----------



## Cokezzz

Thanks for the help!







After my 3rd attempt at seating, I believe I'm very happy w/ the amount of TIM applied using the stock paste that came w/ the 212. I also bought another Blademaster for push/pull, but, am I ok using the plug on my board for a Chassis Fan (CHA_FAN1)? Not sure if there will be a difference in speeds by doing it this way. Or should I just opt for the 4pin PWM Y adapter?


----------



## PapaSmurf

That should be okay as long as you intend to run them with PWM off.


----------



## Blazing angel

I'll be attaching a second fan to the hyper 212+, but i am not sure what side to attach it to. It'll be either a scythe s flex @ 20.1 dbs, or a Noctua @ 17db.

should i put this in pull or push with the stock one?


----------



## chano305

Probably extremely noobish questions, but how does one make sure that the CPU fan header has enough juice to power two fans using a PWM Y splitter?


----------



## CrustyJuggler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrustyJuggler* 
Sweet. I might test with my panaflo just so see of there is a difference in temps. One never knows till the proof is in the pudding.

Panaflo wins by a nose, 1-2C cooler. Looks like I'll just use both and not worry about it


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chano305* 
Probably extremely noobish questions, but how does one make sure that the CPU fan header has enough juice to power two fans using a PWM Y splitter?

Most PWM 4 pin connector Y-splitters should have a Molex connector for supplemental power


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *CrustyJuggler* 
Panaflo wins by a nose, 1-2C cooler. Looks like I'll just use both and not worry about it









Sounds good. Thanks for letting us know.


----------



## evan_phi

Hey gang. I'll be getting the Hyper 212+ in a few weeks or so (less, hopefully!). I'll be have it set up in P/P config with two Blue R4s.

I can't wait to replace my piddly OCZ Vendetta. Need moar power!


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

My 212+ will be delivered today. I'm quite interested to see how well this thing cools.


----------



## YangerD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *_CH_Skyline_*


My 212+ will be delivered today. I'm quite interested to see how well this thing cools.


For the price, you'd be hard pressed to find something better. Good luck


----------



## evan_phi

I bought my 212+ today! Installing later, and PP fans will be purchased some time next week. woooooo.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *evan_phi* 
I bought my 212+ today! Installing later, and PP fans will be purchased some time next week. woooooo.

No need to replace the Blademaster fan that comes with it. Just get a second BladeMaster to complete the P/P. Much less expensive and EXTREMELY efficient.

http://www.svc.com/r4-bmbs-20pk-r0.html


----------



## dracotonisamond

so i am the builder and designated caretaker of a new thuban rig.
and this right here is what i call voodoo magic.
a cpu, that idles at room temperature. with 1.22v coursing though its veins?









and here is where the 212+ is mounted.








the side of the case was on when that was taken.

room temperature here is around 62f according to my thermostat on the wall.


----------



## jaded

<user of the hyper 212++++


----------



## jaded

just got the hyper 212+ a few days ago actually, runs good, only cons were figuring out how to install and Im still curious as to if its 100% tightened down because I thought it was installed right and I put the fan on and couldnt screw it down anymore, but decent temps overall, I think my mugen 2 was superior..





Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

ignore the cable management, its fixed now.


----------



## Biscuits_N_Gravy

I went ahead and grabbed one. They are so cheap, can't pass them up.

It definitely helped my load temps. The stock cooler would get anywhere from 52-58c with Prime95. Now I sit pretty between 39c-42c with my house at 70f.

I currently have the stock fan pushing and an extra TriCool pulling at about 80%.

Definitely worth the money. The same price as a business lunch and it just offers so much more


----------



## olegplanets

plz add me to the club.
my temps went about 5-8C down by adding a pull fan (scythe ultra kaze) and about 2C more by replacing the stock push fan with another ultra kaze. All in all, around 10-15C drop (depending whether it's idle or load, overclocked or not)
overcloked to 4 GHz, the max I get is 59C under intel burn. Let's see if it goes down once AC5 cures.
After reading this thread, I'm considering buying another thermal paste, but which is the best?
Artic Cooling MX-2, 3, 4
OCZ Freeze 
Tuniq TX-2, 3
shin-etsu G751
IC Diamond
GELID Solutions GC-Extreme Thermal Compound


----------



## PapaSmurf

The difference in temps wouldn't be enough of a reason to get a different TIM, but if you did go with either the Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX4 (MX3 is more difficult to work with) or the IC Diamond.


----------



## hesho

oh, i had no idea there was a hyper 212+ club. Let me join ^^

also, i have kinda an odd question...

i currently have the stock CM fan set to pull as i had to use a kaze jyuni slim to push because my ramsinks are in the way. I was trying to figure out if i can get any xtra cooling, but... i hear that the stock CM fan isn't that bad so am i out of options then basically?


----------



## scaz

still out there:

Hyper 212 Plus Universal Direct Contact Heat-Pipe CPU Cooler - Refurbished -- $15.99
http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...roducts_id=412

So cheap


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scaz* 
still out there:

Hyper 212 Plus Universal Direct Contact Heat-Pipe CPU Cooler - Refurbished -- $15.99
http://cmstore.coolermaster-usa.com/...roducts_id=412

So cheap

But shipping from them is extremely slow and high. Figure on it taking at least a week for you to get it (they take 3 or 4 days to even ship it out) and shipping costs are around $9 or more.


----------



## Citra

Just wondering how quiet is the 212+?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Mine is quieter than the stock cooler that came with my Q9550.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Mine is quieter than the stock cooler that came with my Q9550.

Thanks Rep+

Anyone know how quiet it is with 141 tdp?


----------



## PapaSmurf

That was with the fan at FULL speed. I don't use any thermal throttling in the bios so that is a loud as it can be without changing fans.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
That was with the fan at FULL speed. I don't use any thermal throttling in the bios so that is a loud as it can be without changing fans.

Thanks!


----------



## wwwsam

haha coolermaster 212+ is awesome! got my o/ced P4 down to 33 degrees celsius on full load(2xprime95) =D ambient temp is probably 25~30.


----------



## ocman

Hi all, I forgot to mention that I've bought a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for $20+tax days ago!!!

Man... I love bargains!!!









P.S. Hi n00biE5200, can you add me to the list? Thank you!


----------



## lucas4

anybody know if this cooler will fit inside the NZXT M59? thanks


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes. You might need to remove the side panel fan though.


----------



## lucas4

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
Yes. You might need to remove the side panel fan though.

thanks for that







+ rep. looking at the picture of the side of the case makes me think, if the cooler fits, the side fan is in a position where it shouldn't interfere. i hope this is the correct







!! * goes to order the cooler







*


----------



## hesho

this is kinda random, would blowing air on the socket/heatpipes itself help with cooling? I mean, the gap from the socket to the heatsinks itself.

I'm only curious because i bought an antec spot cooler for 5 bucks so i'm trying to do with it and i was planning on just blowing on the NB when i wondered if it would help if i blow the socket/heatpipes themselves.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes it can help. How much it helps depends on a lot of factors. The only way to know for sure is to try it and see.

See this post here on OCN for details on installing and using MCHTemp to see what, if any changes are made to the NB or MCH temps after adding or changing a fan.

http://www.overclock.net/9404756-post12870.html


----------



## hesho

hmm, well i tried it. it doesn't lower my temps per say (same temp) but my cpu fan doesn't spin as fast now, 1640 compared to 1800.


----------



## WK19

Looks like I'm gonna be joining up with you all.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *WK19* 
Looks like I'm gonna be joining up with you all.


How does it cool with the Medium Speed YL's?


----------



## WK19

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


How does it cool with the Medium Speed YL's?


It's actually pretty decent. At stock speeds I was hitting ~29C idle and about 48C 100% load (Prime95, large FFTs), now I've OC'd to 3.67 GHz and Intel Burn Test is pumping out 72C at 100%. Granted, IBT pushes the temps a little higher than P95, so I'll run a large FFT test while I'm in class and see what it gets.

[EDIT: Roommate just texted me, P95 is pushing it to 61C max.]


----------



## PapaSmurf

I may have to try the Mediums then. I have the high speeds now and they are a bit louder than I would like.


----------



## jetpuck73

Which would be better for push fan, stock or tri cool?


----------



## PapaSmurf

The BladeMaster that comes with the Hyper 212+ is an EXCELLENT fan and beats the tri cool in every test I have seen. I only switched to the Yate Loons for appearance as I have the UV Blue ones. Otherwise I would probably be using a pair of the BladeMaster's in Push/Pull like the ones it comes with.


----------



## WK19

I gotta say, I'm rather pleased with the mediums. However, I've decided to run my i5 at 3.3 GHz for 24/7 use and 3.8 GHz for heavy duty stuff (newer games, etc). Got it to pass 35 runs of IBT with a max temp of 74C from RealTemp and 71C from HWMonitor @ 3.8 with a Vcore at 1.30V. Temps haven't broken 60 at 3.3 with a Vcore of 1.17V. I'm actually thinking of lowering the voltages until I get instability, using something like ASUS TurboV Evo. Good idea?


----------



## jetpuck73

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WK19*


I gotta say, I'm rather pleased with the mediums. However, I've decided to run my i5 at 3.3 GHz for 24/7 use and 3.8 GHz for heavy duty stuff (newer games, etc). Got it to pass 35 runs of IBT with a max temp of 74C from RealTemp and 71C from HWMonitor @ 3.8 with a Vcore at 1.30V. Temps haven't broken 60 at 3.3 with a Vcore of 1.17V. I'm actually thinking of lowering the voltages until I get instability, using something like ASUS TurboV Evo. Good idea?


I would just stick to the bios and not Evo.


----------



## tiramoko

add me.. this cpu cooler is best bang for buck. i installed another blademaster for push and pull. i wanted to get the CM with led but it doesnt have enough pressure for cooling.


----------



## PapaSmurf

OC'ing a motherboard using software is a waste of time. It tends to raise voltages unnecessarily high causing excessive temps for no good reason. Either OC in the bios or run stock speeds. One should be ashamed to admit to using crap like that to OC on a forum like this.


----------



## WK19

Only reason I'm doing Evo is for stability tests without rebooting my computer every time. I figure that, as soon as it fails an IBT with the Evo setting, I'll go into the BIOS and put it to the lowest stable Vcore. I guess I should've explained myself a little more.

[EDIT: I do the overclocking in the BIOS, I lower the voltages in Evo to test for stability. Is it really that horrible to do? I mean, I'm not using their overclocking at all, I'm just lowering my Vcore with it.]

[EDIT 2: I was horribly misunderstood, it seems.]


----------



## PapaSmurf

That's okay. But I don't recommend doing it. What you set via software will NOT be what you will get by making the change in the bios. Basically, it's just a waste of time.


----------



## WK19

I figure a stable Vcore of 1.17V, as shown by CPU-Z and HWMonitor, should be alright then, I don't really feel like testing it even lower as the temperatures in Prime95 don't break 55C @ 3.33 GHz. BIOS setting, here we come!

[EDIT: Turns out that was the lowest value it was stable at, anyway. At least, it failed IBT at 1.16 but passed 50 runs at 1.17.]


----------



## Gah Duma

I notice a lot of people have mounted these so that they blow air from the front of the case to the back of the case. I thought, with heat pipes, it is best to mount them in such an orientation such that it reduces the climb of the heat pipe fluid after it re-condenses. What I'm trying to say is that I got about a 3c drop after mounting my 212+ so that it blew air straight up, so that the heat pipes were horizontal.


----------



## WK19

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gah Duma* 
I notice a lot of people have mounted these so that they blow air from the front of the case to the back of the case. I thought, with heat pipes, it is best to mount them in such an orientation such that it reduces the climb of the heat pipe fluid after it re-condenses. What I'm trying to say is that I got about a 3c drop after mounting my 212+ so that it blew air straight up, so that the heat pipes were horizontal.

I thought about doing that, but sleeve bearing fans, such as the 2 Yate Loons I'm using, wear out a lot faster if mounted horizontally rather than vertically.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gah Duma* 
I notice a lot of people have mounted these so that they blow air from the front of the case to the back of the case. I thought, with heat pipes, it is best to mount them in such an orientation such that it reduces the climb of the heat pipe fluid after it re-condenses. What I'm trying to say is that I got about a 3c drop after mounting my 212+ so that it blew air straight up, so that the heat pipes were horizontal.

That's why one should always try things different ways to determine what works best for them. There are very few absolutes when it comes to computers. With my case mounting it that way causes overall temps to INCREASE as I have a top mounted PSU. The PSU also runs quite a bit hotter that way which isn't good.


----------



## wholeeo

So I have this heat sink and was unimpressed with its performance. I come to find out that I totally bombed on the initial installation wit arctic 5. At 4ghz and IntelBurnTest my processor was reaching 90c
















I just reseated the heat sink and think I got it right this time cause the temperature dropped by 12c-13c with the same tests. Anyway, never mind that, please take a look at these pics of what it looked like when removing the heat sink after my disgusting initial install,


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yep, heatsinks like these with exposed heat pipes require a completely different method of applying TIM than ones with a solid base. See http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5 for information on how to apply the TIM properly on this type. The bottom method seems to work the best for most people.


----------



## wholeeo

Those instructions are exactly what I followed this time around, def beat Arctic's official instructions for these type of heat sinks. I've noticed people are installing an extra fan on these coolers, can someone suggest which fan I should purchase? I could look through the thread but its 75 pages long now,









Nevermind,









http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0322507


----------



## PapaSmurf

http://www.svc.com/r4-bmbs-20pk-r0.html $6.99 + shipping. Much less than MC charges for them.


----------



## Gah Duma

Where can I get extra fan brackets? I already put on a second fan but it's bothering me that both fans aren't the same. And the sticky pads ensure that you can't reuse the brackets...


----------



## jetpuck73

I would just contact Cooler Master and see if they can send you one.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gah Duma*


Where can I get extra fan brackets? I already put on a second fan but it's bothering me that both fans aren't the same. And the sticky pads ensure that you can't reuse the brackets...


Sure you can. I've switched several times since I got mine and haven't had any trouble. You just have to make sure to not put the pads over the screws. Even if you do, you can still remove them at least once or twice although you might need to use some Elmer's Glue to hold them on.


----------



## Ralkyon

Do you guys thing this will fit in my NZXT M59?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ralkyon*


Do you guys thing this will fit in my NZXT M59?


10 seconds with the Search Feature of the forum tells you it will as long as you remove the side panel fan.


----------



## Gah Duma

So I have two Blademasters in P/P and I noticed, when mounted with them parallel to the ground, they make a weird rattling noise. When I put the case on its side, the noise goes away. Anyone else have this issue?


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gah Duma* 
So I have two Blademasters in P/P and I noticed, when mounted with them parallel to the ground, they make a weird rattling noise. When I put the case on its side, the noise goes away. Anyone else have this issue?

My guess would be your fan cable is dangling and it's getting caught in between the blades. Try to tuck your cables away better.


----------



## Gah Duma

Quote:


Originally Posted by *YangerD* 
My guess would be your fan cable is dangling and it's getting caught in between the blades. Try to tuck your cables away better.

I checked and there is no wire it the way. It occurs at too a low frequency to be a wire hitting the blades.

When i put pressure with my finger on the fan hub, the noise stops, if that's any help.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Sounds like a lubrication problem or a bad bearing. Try taking them apart and lubing the bearings with fishing real lube. Don't use penetrating oils or sprays like WD-40, Liquid Wrench, etc. You need something that lubricates only and that will stick around awhile which is why I recommend Fishing Reel Lube.


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys I'm about to throw a spare 212 in a rig I am building for my wife. I am going to overclock (Amd x3 445) but not too much.

I have a choice between 2 different fans I have lying around. An Antec tri cool or the stock fan that comes with the Corsair h50.

Anyone have a recommendation on which would be better?


----------



## ocman

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lightsout* 
Hey guys I'm about to throw a spare 212 in a rig I am building for my wife. I am going to overclock (Amd x3 445) but not too much.

I have a choice between 2 different fans I have lying around. An Antec tri cool or the stock fan that comes with the Corsair h50.

Anyone have a recommendation on which would be better?

Hi lightsout, Corsair's stock fan is better... especially on the noise level.


----------



## Jzkillzone23

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eddie2020* 
cpu= central processing unit / core..AMD phenom II x4 955 is your cpu..
i have some question
you guys apply spread or pea method thermal on your cpu? only apply 1 side cpu or apply cpu with heatsink 2 side?

and 1 more is thermal paste..any solution to clean old thermal paste?must use alcohol? can other thing inside house can be used?

For the 212+ apply 2 lines on the metal between the heatpipes.


----------



## ffejrxx

add me

just got it installed
2 lines of thermal paste as directed in this thread
small ammount oozing out the sides of the hsf/cpu


----------



## aiya

anyone one have one with a 120x38 san ace? thinking about picking one up. also have a s-flex G laying around.


----------



## narabhut

Will this fit in a NZXT M59?


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *narabhut* 
Will this fit in a NZXT M59?

Yes it will. Depending on the mobo though the side fan may or may not have to come off.


----------



## Indio22

I am building my first PC, and installed the Cooler Master 212 Hyper Plus onto an I7 950, on a Gigabyte X58 UD3R 1336 ATX MB. Fortunately, I found some online instructions including a video to aid with the install, because the printed instructions were not so clear.

But I have a question and canâ€™t find a solid answer. How much should I turn the four screws that have the springs on them? The screws have a threaded section, and then a wider diameter section that prevents the screws from being turned any further. Should I turn the screws until they canâ€™t be turned any further, so that the springs are applying maximum pressure? Or should I tighten the screws only part way, until the cooler seems secure?

I am concerned that if I turn the screws all the way, the pressure applied may damage the CPU or bend the motherboard. Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes, turn them until they won't turn any further. You won't damage anything. Unlike ThermalRight did with their Venomous X, CM designed the mounting system to stay within the maximum pressure limitations of the socket and motherboard. If you do NOT tighten them all the way you won't achieve the proper amount of pressure which will lower the efficiency of the heatsink. That will result in higher temps.

And I recommend going into your Control Panel (User CP) at the top of the page, clicking on Add System on the left hand side, and filling out your system specs in as much detail as possible. That will make it easier to assist you in the future as everyone will know what hardware you are working with when you ask questions allowing us to provide the best possible recommendations.


----------



## Indio22

Thanks for the advice I appreciate it. Somehow the CPU cooler install has been the most difficult part of this build, at least so far. Hopefully when I finally fire it all up the first time, everything will work. Also I have updated some of the system specs in my profile.


----------



## PapaSmurf

How did you apply the TIM to the heatsink? You can't just put a dab on the CPU IHS like you do with flat based heatsinks and get good temps. With a a HeatPipe Direct Contact base like the 212+ you need to apply it directly to the heatsink base, not the CPU itself. See the following link for details. 
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required. See the bottom method on that guide. The single drop of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## Indio22

I used Arctic Silver 5 as the TIM. First I worked the paste into the little cracks and crevices of the Hyper 212 mating surface, using a plastic card. Then I "tinted" the CPU mating surface with a very thin layer of paste, again using the plastic card. Finally, I put a line down the center of the CPU, and installed the cooler. This was all according to the Arctic Silver instructions on their web site, for what it's worth. Won't know how good a job I did installing, until I get to fire up the PC and check the temps.


----------



## PapaSmurf

You can't go by what the AS instructions recommend since they are for a FLAT base heatsink. For whatever reason AS has so far refused to provide instructions on how to properly apply TIM on a HeatPipe Direct Contact HS like the 212+. I hope you will get lucky, but all of the reports I have seen of people who have used the AS method haven't been good. It's one of the many reasons I don't like AS as at TIM. It's more hype than anything compared to Arctic Cooling MX-2/3, IC Diamond, and a couple of others mentioned numerous times in this and other threads here on OCN.


----------



## ffejrxx

just a heads up, microcenter will have these on sale for $16.99 on black friday

www.microcenter.com
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/...ef#/ccfaaeef/7


----------



## SOCOM_HERO

thats a like the best deal ever for those who don't already have the 212+!!!!!!


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


How did you apply the TIM to the heatsink? You can't just put a dab on the CPU IHS like you do with flat based heatsinks and get good temps. With a a HeatPipe Direct Contact base like the 212+ you need to apply it directly to the heatsink base, not the CPU itself. See the following link for details. 
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required. See the bottom method on that guide. The single drop of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


THIS! i was just about to ***** about the same thing. thanks for the info i may be stuck using a hyper on a build since i only have 2 HSFs left.

EDIT: i think the company could have filled the cracks with solder then finely machine the surface. I suppose one could that but, instead of machining just lap it.


----------



## Edgarion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ffejrxx*


just a heads up, microcenter will have these on sale for $16.99 on black friday

www.microcenter.com
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/...ef#/ccfaaeef/7


I saw that, I want to get one for my new rig. From what I hear it is a great cooler and at a nice price. I am just worried that since I haven't installed a 3rd party cooler before I will screw something up









I guess the only way to get more confident in something you don't know how to do is to just do it. Wish me luck!


----------



## sixor

add me

it was a nightmare to install (noob), the instructions sucks, they say nothing, youtube videos aren't for noobs, but they were helpfull

after like 5 hours of suffering, i set up the thing from hell, really i though i was going to break the mobo and cpu, how much tim, really cooler master sucks with instructions

in my pc
[email protected] 
iddle 28-36
fullload 50-55


----------



## PapaSmurf

I didn't see anything wrong with the instructions, although that was for an Intel Socket 775 setup. Took me all of 40 minutes to install my first one, and that includes removing the mobo and drives from the case, cutting a cpu retention plate bracket in the case with a Dremel, attaching the retention plate, re-installing the mobo and drives, and then attaching the heatsink.


----------



## amd-dude

Hey guys a buddy of mine bought the 212+ and he is getting great results with it...we are from the caribbean and he got temp drops of 15 -20c over the stock sink and fan, my question is this, what are the best fans to use with the 212+, does not necessarily need to be totally quiet i care more for the cooling trade off, over noise also i have a tube of ocz freeze is this a good TIM to couple with the 212?


----------



## tiramoko

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-065-_-Product 14.99 after mir


----------



## PapaSmurf

The stock fan is a BladeMaster and works extremely well. If it was me I would just pick up a second BladeMaster and configure it in a Push/Pull configuration. You won't be able to do much better by more than a degree or two C with different fans.

Otherwise, the San Ace from this thread would be the absolute best you can get for it, but the difference probably wouldn't be worth the cost.

The OCZ Freeze should be okay if you install it correctly. Otherwise Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 or IC Diamond 7 would be the other top choices with Arctic Silver WAY down the list.

Since it is a Heatpipe Direct Contact then the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## cdoublejj

yeah the BR link shows you how to make the spread having seen that the hyper 212+ isn't to shabby.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5


----------



## Jerry_03

Hi all,

I'm thinking about grabbing the CM Hyper 212 Plus, and I tried searching if this question was answered already, so sorry if it was but will the Hyper 212 Plus fit inside a Cool Master Centurion 5 case?

heres a pic of my rig now:









It has a side CPU air duct which im pretty sure will have to be removed, but thats no biggie. i just want to make sure it will fit before i buy it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

You won't have any problems mounting it in a Centurion 5 case. I have one and it worked just fine. The only thing you will need to do is remove the plastic air funnel from the side panel.

BTW, your cable management in yours looks a LOT better than mine ever did.

If you have access to a Dremel Tool (or similar) you might want to consider cutting a CPU Backplate Access Hole in the mobo tray while you have the mobo out. That will make it easier to swap it out in the future. When it comes time to mount it be sure to follow these guidelines when applying the tim.

The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## Indio22

FYI - looks like Fryâ€™s Electronics as the Hyper 212 on sale for 19 dollars, with the 10 dollar rebate comes to 9 dollars total. B&M only at this point as the online ordering appears out of stock.


----------



## hyujmn

Just picked up a 212+ from Fry's on sale. Now I'm wondering if it's worth it to go push/pull. What difference in temperatures did you guys see by going push/pull as opposed to just push? I mean, I may just go ahead and go push/pull with another Blademaster cuz it looks so cool, but I'm just wondering if it's gonna be a big enough decrease.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It depends on what you use your system for and how much you OC it. I get 3-4C lower temps under 100% load with a pair of BladeMasters on my Q6600 @ 3.4GHz. Since that is a folding rig I think it's well worth it. I get similar results on the Q9550 @ 4.1GHz with a pair of HiSpeed Yate Loon's. I do a lot of video encoding on that system so it gets a workout as well.

If your system is rarely under much of a load then I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## Jerry_03

thanks for the compliment on the cable management PapaSmurf. I took my time with it for that build. and thanks for the link on how to apply the thermal paste, ill definitely read it before installing my cooler. i ordered the Hyper 212+ yesterday and after i install it ill post the results.


----------



## hyujmn

Just an update. Been running Prime95 for the past 3 hours. My max temps with the Hyper n520 was 54c at 3.2ghz. One of the reasons I never overclocked past that was the heat issue.

With the Hyper 212+, max temp so far has been 45c, but it just barely touched than and then dropped back down to 44c. It's been holding steady at 43c for the last hour.

$10 for a 9c drop in temperatures? Yes, please!


----------



## Faster_is_better

I should be joining this club next week


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *hyujmn* 
Just an update. Been running Prime95 for the past 3 hours. My max temps with the Hyper n520 was 54c at 3.2ghz. One of the reasons I never overclocked past that was the heat issue.

With the Hyper 212+, max temp so far has been 45c, but it just barely touched than and then dropped back down to 44c. It's been holding steady at 43c for the last hour.

$10 for a 9c drop in temperatures? Yes, please!


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better* 
I should be joining this club next week









That's what we like to hear.


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Got this for $9 at frys today. After playing bad company 2 my CPU maxed at ~45C. Stock X6 1055T. Is this good?

Seems a little high. I think the stock cooler was about the same.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I'm not familiar with newer AMD systems since Socket 939 so I really don't know if that's good or not. What TIM are you using and how did you apply it? Did you follow the instructions in this guide? The old methods of putting dab or single line on the cpu's IHS surface doesn't work with Heatpipe Direct Contact Heatsinks like the 212+.


----------



## NguyenAdam

Do you think it will go on sale without rebates for cyber monday?


----------



## PapaSmurf

I wouldn't count on it.


----------



## narabhut

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KoukiFC3S*


Got this for $9 at frys today. After playing bad company 2 my CPU maxed at ~45C. Stock X6 1055T. Is this good?

Seems a little high. I think the stock cooler was about the same.


Yeah that's good. Does it stay under 55 during Prime95?


----------



## KoukiFC3S

Quote:



Originally Posted by *narabhut*


Yeah that's good. Does it stay under 55 during Prime95?


I didn't do the thermal paste right. Redid it as suggested in this thread and now I load at 37C under prime 95. Thats with just one fan too. 8)

Is the typhoon a good fan for this heatsink? Using the stock coolermaster but I do have a typhoon laying around. It's a good fan for the h50 so I think it would do well on the 212 too.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I seriously doubt that you would notice any difference, but the only way to know for sure is to try it.


----------



## briang191

New to Overclock.net

I was wondering if my temps are normal for Ocing and I7950 to 4.1ghz. I'm thinking I might have used to much Arctic silver 5.

I have not purchased an additional fan for Push/Pull setup.


----------



## PapaSmurf

What are your ambient room temps? Without there is no way of knowing for sure if those are good temps or not, but I would say they are probably about right.


----------



## briang191

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
What are your ambient room temps? Without there is no way of knowing for sure if those are good temps or not, but I would say they are probably about right.

Papasmurf

I dont have anything to measure the ambient room temp. I'll have to wait till summer to determine if this hyper212 will be able to do the job.


----------



## hyujmn

Hmm, has anyone ever spray painted the fins on their Hyper 212+? I really just wanna paint the top so it looks a bit cooler.

Would it have any negative effects on temperatures?


----------



## ffejrxx

that would be a bad idea
paint is an insulator

getting it anodized would be better, but cost more

edit: painting the top would be fine, but inside the fins would be bad


----------



## PapaSmurf

Painting just the top fin wouldn't affect cooling in any way. In fact, it's quite commonly done. Just make sure you do NOT paint any of the other fins at all, not even the outer edges.

Be sure to use some ISOPROPYL Alcohol to clean the surface first, then lightly scuff it with a painting scuff pad. DO NOT use Rubbing Alcohol as it has petroleum distillates in it that leave an oily residue that will prevent the paint from sticking. Put 2 light coats of Self Etching Primer on the fin to give the paint something to adhere to, then apply two or three light coats of whatever top color you desire. Use GOOD quality paint like Krylon, Rust-O-Leum, or Dupli-Color that is designed to be used on metal. Allow a minimum of 3 days after the final coat for it to dry before installing it to give the paint a chance to cure so it doesn't scratch or chip easily.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Someone needs to see about getting n00biE5200 to start updating this Club or have him turn it over to someone who will. Anyone interested as n00biE5200 doesn't seem to be any longer?


----------



## hyujmn

So what would be the proper way to prepare the Hyper 212+ for painting? Would duct taping off the other edges be the best idea? What about the copper heat pipes protruding from the top?


----------



## ffejrxx

masking tape and newespaper or plastic bag

rough up with sandpaper, steelwool, or scotch brite pad
clean with some kind of alcahol cleaner

painting the copper tips is fine

better directions from FannBlade here
http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-g...how-paint.html


----------



## PapaSmurf

I wouldn't use steel wool. It's almost impossible to remove all of the residue it leaves behind. Use a proper scuff pad that is designed specifically for the purpose. As far as I'm concerned either do it right or don't do it at all.


----------



## dlinkb

Hey when you apply the thermal paste on this cooler, what do you guys mean by apply some in between the cracks? Do you mean in between the silver and copper parts on the bottom?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes. Look at the link I provided to show you what we are talking about.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5


----------



## ffejrxx

on a friends i used a credit card to smooth the paste between the pipe and aluminum base plate

3 1/4 pea sized dots on the one side pipes then wiped them with the card to smear it in all the cracks to prep

1 1/2 pea sized dot on the center of the cpu when installing

all cpu temps are within 5Âºc from each other
(i7 950 with one superpi running 8m set to one core at a time)


----------



## Kvjavs

What would you guys recommend for a thermal compound on the Hyper212+? I'm having temperature issues and am currently using OCZ Freeze. I'm idling around 32c, when normally it's downwards towards 24c (with crappier/similar fans).

I re-seated it multiple times with multiple application methods and none seem to help at all.

The last time it was performing really well however, it was in a larger case, but it shouldn't make too much difference right now due to the fact I have the case open and airflow is pretty good, also I have a cold room.

The heatpipes don't seem to be damaged.


----------



## hawaiian_geek

MX-2 or MX 3
just my


----------



## PapaSmurf

I agree with the Arctic Coolimg MX2 or MX3. Other good choices are IC Diamond 7 or the stock stuff that CM ships with the 212+. It's as good if not better than most of the other stuff that's out there when applied correctly as per this guide.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

One of the problems some people are having is not forcing some of it into the crevices between the heatsink base and the heatpipes. Another big problem is some people use Rubbing Alcohol to clean the IHS on the cpu and th heatsink base which is a HUGE no no. Rubbing Alcohol contains petroleum bi-products that leave an oily residue that acts as an insulator. One needs to use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean computer heatsinks and chips that need to have heat transferred.


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I agree with the Arctic Coolimg MX2 or MX3. Other good choices are IC Diamond 7 or the stock stuff that CM ships with the 212+. It's as good if not better than most of the other stuff that's out there when applied correctly as per this guide.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

One of the problems some people are having is not forcing some of it into the crevices between the heatsink base and the heatpipes. Another big problem is some people use Rubbing Alcohol to clean the IHS on the cpu and th heatsink base which is a HUGE no no. Rubbing Alcohol contains petroleum bi-products that leave an oily residue that acts as an insulator. One needs to use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean computer heatsinks and chips that need to have heat transferred.


I have been using the Arctic Silver Thermal Compound remover to clean the Hyper212+ and IHS.

As for my temps I'm running stock 2.56ghz right now, 32c idle and sometimes upwards to 50c during load.

A while back when I was using AS5 I was getting around 20c idle and around 35 load. This OCZ Freeze doesn't seem to spread well, however I did also get some crappy temps with one of the last reseatings I had with AS5. But still I had those really low temps in my Elite 341 mATX case. So I doubt it's my case capturing the hot air, besides I have my side panel off right now.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The AS remover should work just fine. What you might want to do is grab an old toothbrush or other brush and use that to really scrub the surfaces, especially the 212+. Sometimes it helps remove more residue than just using a cloth.

But that does seem a bit high for running stock.


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:


Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf* 
The AS remover should work just fine. What you might want to do is grab an old toothbrush or other brush and use that to really scrub the surfaces, especially the 212+. Sometimes it helps remove more residue than just using a cloth.

But that does seem a bit high for running stock.

I'll try that. I was thinking perhaps the remover has some residue leftover on it that I'm missing.

I hope this works, otherwise I'm gonna buy a new cooler and get a case as a birthday present. And in all honesty I dont want a new case.









Anything I should use with the brush or just get to brushing? No water I assume?


----------



## Gabe63

Frys had these for $9.99 after a $10 MIR this weekend. I bought one, it looks nice. Next time I pull out my MOBO I will replace my 9500 with this.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kvjavs* 
I'll try that. I was thinking perhaps the remover has some residue leftover on it that I'm missing.

I hope this works, otherwise I'm gonna buy a new cooler and get a case as a birthday present. And in all honesty I dont want a new case.









Anything I should use with the brush or just get to brushing? No water I assume?

Isopropyl Alcohol. 90% pure or higher is best, but even 70% pure will do. Just avoid rubbing Alcohol or anything that contains Petroleum Distillates.


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Isopropyl Alcohol. 90% pure or higher is best, but even 70% pure will do. Just avoid rubbing Alcohol or anything that contains Petroleum Distillates.


Anything else? I don't have anything like that handy. Just the AS5 remover stuff.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The Iso is the only thing I use. If you don't have that use the AS remover stuff. If you have a girlfriend, sister, mother, etc. around you might want to ask them if they have some. If they have pierced ears (or some other body part) they probably do.


----------



## seesee

hmm just curious since the copper pipes are expose.. does the cooler oxidize faster, which result in reduce performance over time?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Only those areas that are exposed to air would oxidize, and even then it would be minimal. My ThermalRight SI-128 has a copper base that I lapped 3 or 4 years ago and it hasn't oxidized yet. The part that touches the cpu IHS isn't going to oxidize while it's mounted and that is the important part.

I have several other heatsinks that have copper bases that I've had for close to ten years and none of them have oxidized either, and they haven't been mounted in years.


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Sign me up!


----------



## Kvjavs

Cleaned the hell out of my Hyper212+ and CPU and reseated, idling at 26 and not hitting over 40 in prime 95 as opposed to 50 =)

YAY!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Don't count on being added to the list. n00biE5200, the Club Owner has been awol from the club since August 3rd and seems to have lost interest in taking care of it any longer. Until he decides to get his act together or someone steps up to take the club over the thread will remain alive but the list won't be updated.

I've never understood why people are so inconsiderate to start a club then just walk away from it like that. A responsible person would inform the members that they need to step away and turn the club over to someone else. That's how I ended up with two of the 4 clubs I now run (the other two were just abandoned and one of the Mod's here at OCN turned them over to me). If you feel like taking up the challenge contact one of the mods about taking it over. n00biE5200 isn't responding to PM's sent to him about it even though he has been on OCN since they were sent.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


Cleaned the hell out of my Hyper212+ and CPU and reseated, idling at 26 and not hitting over 40 in prime 95 as opposed to 50 =)

YAY!


----------



## seesee

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Only those areas that are exposed to air would oxidize, and even then it would be minimal. My ThermalRight SI-128 has a copper base that I lapped 3 or 4 years ago and it hasn't oxidized yet. The part that touches the cpu IHS isn't going to oxidize while it's mounted and that is the important part.

I have several other heatsinks that have copper bases that I've had for close to ten years and none of them have oxidized either, and they haven't been mounted in years.


i think it depends on where the person stays..

for example I stay in Singapore which is surrounded by sea, therefore the oxidation is higher.

now I know why Hyper212 differently every where.


----------



## Kvjavs

*sighs* OK after gaming for a little while last night it seems as if the re-seating didn't help as much as I thought.

Now I'm back up to roughly 32c idle. I don't know what to think and I'm getting sick and tired of having to re-seat this damn heatsink all the time.

My loads are also back up towards 47-50c. Might just end up trying my Megaflow mod to see if it helps. Not quite sure what to think anymore.


----------



## PapaSmurf

What are your ambient room temps?


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


What are your ambient room temps?


Bout 22C/72F. I'd open a window if I wasn't coming down with bronchitis.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That shouldn't be necessary. 22C/72F is within a couple of degrees of what any reviews would be using so it's extremely doubtful that is the problem. Unfortunately I'm not that familiar with iCore systems so it's difficult for me to know how far from optimum those temps are. Hopefully one of the others will chip in with their experiences on them.


----------



## tryagainplss

First of all, sorry for intruding your sacred temple. But I need help with my (non-performance related) doubts on the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 PLUS. If I'm lucky I might be able to join this club within the next 24 hours.

Alright, my problem is that I don't know if the great Hyper 212+ would fit in my rig (Please refer to my signature for more info)
-Would it fit on my motherboard? 
-Would it be compatible with my CPU? 
-And most of all, since I have the option to mount the heatsink either vertically or horizontally, I don't know which setup would be better at lowering cpu temps. Also consider that my very awesome chassis has very bad air flow, only one 80mm fan on the rear and another one on the center of the side panel (but it doesn't matter cause I'm removing my side panel anyway)
**Please take note that my PSU is mounted at the top.

Help please xD

And all hail the hyper 212+ and its owners


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tryagainplss*


First of all, sorry for intruding your sacred temple. But I need help with my (non-performance related) doubts on the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 PLUS. If I'm lucky I might be able to join this club within the next 24 hours.

Alright, my problem is that I don't know if the great Hyper 212+ would fit in my rig (Please refer to my signature for more info)
-Would it fit on my motherboard? 
-Would it be compatible with my CPU? 
-And most of all, since I have the option to mount the heatsink either vertically or horizontally, I don't know which setup would be better at lowering cpu temps. Also consider that my very awesome chassis has very bad air flow, only one 80mm fan on the rear and another one on the center of the side panel (but it doesn't matter cause I'm removing my side panel anyway)
**Please take note that my PSU is mounted at the top.

Help please xD

And all hail the hyper 212+ and its owners


LOL, that's what we are here for, to answer questions and help each other. The 212+ is compatible with your motherboard and CPU socket which is LGA775. To say whether it will fit your case or have any clearance issues is hard to say since I don't know what exact case you own (Something Generic isn't much to go on). You could do some measurements to check for yourself though: link. You can get a pretty nice case for cheap these days like a NZXT Gamma, NZXT Beta Evo, NZXT M59, or Rosewill Challenger to name a few (though I'm not sure the availability or price of these cases in the Philippines). I always try to mount the cooler so it blows right into the exhaust fan (I guess that would be vertical, I believe). Just note that to mount the 212+ you have to remove the motherboard since it has a backplate mounting system. Another reason to get a new case because all those cases I recommended have a backplate access hole which your generic case probably doesn't have. I hope that helps, let me know if you have anymore questions.


----------



## ffejrxx

if you can remove your current hsf and measure about 160(6.25in) from the cpu to the outside of the case, and about 120mm(4.75in) wide and have pleanty of room around the cpu, it should fit just fine

good airflow for it will be another story


----------



## PapaSmurf

If your PSU is mounted at the top of the case you definitely want the 212+ mounted so that the fans on it are blowing towards the back of the case.

And I agree that you might want to consider either replacing that case or modding it to accommodate a larger 120MM fan in the back. A single 80mm case fan in the back probably wouldn't allow enough airflow for optimum cooling.


----------



## tryagainplss

I am currently planning to upgrade my chassis to a better one.... Looking to buy a Haf 912 (I know it's not that nice looking but I don't care about aesthetics, I'm very performance wise), the only problem is that it costs a lot more than it should alongside the Haf 912+ and the Haf 912 Advanced. I'm also eyeing the CoolerMaster Storm Scout, but yet again the problem lies in stock availability here in the Philippines


----------



## RyuTakezaki

Hey guys, just started building the new comp, and its already hitting several snags for me. Since this is my first build, I think I'm just being too cautious about things, and so I'm going a lot slower than what I originally had planned.

So far I've:

Taken the side panels off the HAF X and installed the standoffs accordingly.

Placed the CPU into its socket, I think. The cpu didn't "fall" into place like I thought it would, unless Intel doesn't do ZIF sockets anymore. All I did was position the cpu according to the notches and the gold triangle as instructed in the motherboard's manual and it didn't seem like it went any farther into the socket.

Then I have I think successfully mounted the Hyper 212+ onto my mobo, so we'll see how things go. i'm a tad bit tired at the moment, and I've got class in the morning, so hopefully in the afternoon I'll take some pictures and see what you guys have to say.

Night fellas.


----------



## Zeke311

I have a CM H 212+, too! Lemme in! Lemme in!

I want this to be the 1st club I join on OC.net.


----------



## Drenlin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tryagainplss*


I am currently planning to upgrade my chassis to a better one.... Looking to buy a Haf 912 (I know it's not that nice looking but I don't care about aesthetics, I'm very performance wise), the only problem is that it costs a lot more than it should alongside the Haf 912+ and the Haf 912 Advanced. I'm also eyeing the CoolerMaster Storm Scout, but yet again the problem lies in stock availability here in the Philippines


The 912 is a great case, no worries there. I have one sitting next to me and it's built very well...lots of room. It's really wide, so there's plenty of room for a big cooler like the H212+. Here's a width comparison of it and my M59:









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer*


You can get a pretty nice case for cheap these days like a NZXT Gamma, NZXT Beta Evo, NZXT M59, or Rosewill Challenger to name a few


+1 to this, but be aware that they H212+ just barely fits in the Gamma/M59/Challenger chassis. Mine actually touches the side panel a_ little_ bit. The Beta EVO is significantly wider than those and would be the better choice.


----------



## Kvjavs

What are other people idling at with a stock clocked i5-750/760 or 860/870? I'm still trying to find out why my idles are at 35c at 2.66ghz =/

Bout to try AS5 when I get it on Monday. I know these temps aren't anything bad, but I SWEAR I had a 23c Idle when I first moved into this case.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kvjavs*


What are other people idling at with a stock clocked i5-750/760 or 860/870? I'm still trying to find out why my idles are at 35c at 2.66ghz =/

Bout to try AS5 when I get it on Monday. I know these temps aren't anything bad, but I SWEAR I had a 23c Idle when I first moved into this case.


Without specifying your ambient room temps no one can make any valid assessment of your cpu temps. We would also need to know if you have SpeedStep enabled or not. Those two factors would have a major impact on what your idle temps should be, although idle temps are essentially meaningless. What matters is load temps. A lot of cpu's suffer from sensors sticking at low temps so it's quite often for them tho not read accurately at idle.

That said, unless the room you have your computer in is around 60-64F the chances of having 23C idle temps is somewhere between slim and none. An average room temp is 68 to 70F (20-21C) and it's extremely doubtful that you would be able to idle at 2C over ambient room temps even with SpeedStep enabled.


----------



## Kvjavs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Without specifying your ambient room temps no one can make any valid assessment of your cpu temps. We would also need to know if you have SpeedStep enabled or not. Those two factors would have a major impact on what your idle temps should be, although idle temps are essentially meaningless. What matters is load temps. A lot of cpu's suffer from sensors sticking at low temps so it's quite often for them tho not read accurately at idle.

That said, unless the room you have your computer in is around 60-64F the chances of having 23C idle temps is somewhere between slim and none. An average room temp is 68 to 70F (20-21C) and it's extremely doubtful that you would be able to idle at 2C over ambient room temps even with SpeedStep enabled.


My room temp is bout 71-72F.

I have tried C1E, C3 State Support, Speed Step, Thermal monitor all on and off and it didn't help at all. And my voltage is at 1.1v

My bios was reading my CPU at 23c but whenever I get RealTemp going its at 32ish and fluctuates between 29 and 36. Before I moved into this small case I was in a Tempest EVO and was between 20 and 26c. But my current case is open right now so I don't think it would make a huge difference.


----------



## PapaSmurf

21 C ..........69.8 F
22 C ..........71.6 F
23 C ..........73.4 F

Like I stated, the chances of have your cpu running at 1C above your room temp of 22C is somewhere between slim and none. 30C or so is more like it. The cpu temp listed in the bios is more than likely the motherboard sensor while Real Temp, Core Temp, etc. are reading the actual cpu sensors which are more accurate.


----------



## Dirty Durden

I've read a few post, but didn't see if anyone answered which way the fans should blow (up & out or out the back) & does it matter? I have my dual fans blowing up & out in a CM HAF 922.

I live in MD where is cold now & I have rigged up a dual window fan blowing through dryer venting directly into my side fans, very cold temps (wife hates it but no one can see it). My CPU temps are 25c - 28c & 32c - 35c loaded.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It has been discussed numerous times. It depends on the case. If you have a top mounted PSU then out the back is the only viable option. If you have a bottom mounted psu then it normally doesn't matter as you'll probably only see 1 to 2C difference. There is no way to determine which would be better though as there are too many variables, but out the back is normally best. The only way to know what is best for your specific case/cpu/video card/motherboard/fan combination will be to try it both ways and see, but with temps like that I can't see it being worth the time or trouble of doing so.


----------



## Basalt

I recently bought a Hyper 12 + to go with an i5-760 build in my trusty HAF932 case. Cost me $15.00 so i figured what the heck.

My old 775 board had a Zerotherm BTF90 on a Q6600. My first impression when I took the Hyper 12 + out of the box was "sheesh this thing is huge!"










My second Impression was "This thing is far to light for the size." and nearly RMAed right there.

I don't lap products while they are still under warranty, so i was also concerned about the slightly scored finish on the heat pipes and how well it would work with the supplied Cooler Master TIM, but used the TIM any ways as I figured I'd end up lapping the HS and didn't want to waste my stock stuff.

Oh and I used a CC and spread on the CPU, then went and filled the gaps until I saw no light on the straight edge, scraping the Heat Pipe surface clean. Old school, but it works for me.









Mounting was a pain, I had to use some taller stand offs and still ended up taking a dremel to my mounting plane to provide clearance for the bracket.

So all in all my first impression was pretty negative, fortunately , it wasn't my last.

I didn't install a pull fan becuase I'm unsure if the PWM header can handle the pull of two fans yoked so i still have room to play.

At a room ambient of 21c my 4.0 Ghz oc idles across the cores at 30c to 34c.
My Bios reports 29c CPU, 36c System.

Under maximum memory load with IntelBurnTest, my cores stayed in the high 60's normally, bouncing up to 71c on occasion with the fan showing 1956 rpm.

Under normal work loads, the temps are generally mid 40's to low 50's across the core depending upon what i was doing. I've been watching temps for a week now.

I pushed to 4.2 Ghz but the CPU hit my 85c limit near the end of the test, so I won't push pass that until I get a pull fan.

So sign me up, this is undoubtedly the best $15 i ever spent. Looking forwards to what a proper lapping and a second fan will allow, I know 4.2 stable is just a breath away.


----------



## hyujmn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Basalt*


I recently bought a Hyper 12 + to go with an i5-760 build in my trusty HAF932 case. Cost me $15.00 so i figured what the heck.

My old 775 board had a Zerotherm BTF90 on a Q6600. My first impression when I took the Hyper 12 + out of the box was "sheesh this thing is huge!"









My second Impression was "This thing is far to light for the size." and nearly RMAed right there.

I don't lap products while they are still under warranty, so i was also concerned about the slightly scored finish on the heat pipes and how well it would work with the supplied Cooler Master TIM, but used the TIM any ways as I figured I'd end up lapping the HS and didn't want to waste my stock stuff.

Oh and I used a CC and spread on the CPU, then went and filled the gaps until I saw no light on the straight edge, scraping the Heat Pipe surface clean. Old school, but it works for me.









Mounting was a pain, I had to use some taller stand offs and still ended up taking a dremel to my mounting plane to provide clearance for the bracket.

So all in all my first impression was pretty negative, fortunately , it wasn't my last.

I didn't install a pull fan becuase I'm unsure if the PWM header can handle the pull of two fans yoked so i still have room to play.

At a room ambient of 21c my 4.0 Ghz oc idles across the cores at 30c to 34c.
My Bios reports 29c CPU, 36c System.

Under maximum memory load with IntelBurnTest, my cores stayed in the high 60's normally, bouncing up to 71c on occasion with the fan showing 1956 rpm.

Under normal work loads, the temps are generally mid 40's to low 50's across the core depending upon what i was doing. I've been watching temps for a week now.

I pushed to 4.2 Ghz but the CPU hit my 85c limit near the end of the test, so I won't push pass that until I get a pull fan.

So sign me up, this is undoubtedly the best $15 i ever spent. Looking forwards to what a proper lapping and a second fan will allow, I know 4.2 stable is just a breath away.


Oh God, don't lap the Hyper 212+


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Basalt*


I didn't install a pull fan becuase I'm unsure if the PWM header can handle the pull of two fans yoked so i still have room to play.


Unless you mount a monster fan that draws and incredible amount of power you won't have any problems running two fans off of the PWM header. By monster I'm talking about a fan that moves 200CFM and draws 10 amps or something ridiculous like that. The Blademaster that comes with it, Hi Speed Yate Loons, or any of the other comparable fans one would normally use wouldn't come close to overpowering the PWM circuit on that board.


----------



## chadrew

I'm thinking of buying this thing. Can't beat the price / performance ratio.

One question though, is the stock thermal grease included any good?

Sadly I can't get good ones in my country. An alternative would be Zalman ZM-STG2 or Arctic Cooling MX-2. Worth getting any of those, or just go with stock one?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes it is. It's as good as most of the stuff out there and better than quite a bit of it. The difference between it and IC-7, MX-2 or MX-3, or the top Shin-Itsu would probably only be 1C. It's better than anything from Arctic Silver.


----------



## ATSi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chadrew* 
I'm thinking of buying this thing. Can't beat the price / performance ratio.

One question though, is the stock thermal grease included any good?

Sadly I can't get good ones in my country. An alternative would be Zalman ZM-STG2 or Arctic Cooling MX-2. Worth getting any of those, or just go with stock one?

It's pretty damn good, I would stick with it. Btw can anyone tell me how much you think adding a second Blademaster would do to temps? My current temps are 3.8Ghz are 29C idle and 52C load.


----------



## PapaSmurf

More than likely 1 to 2C drop under load.


----------



## ATSi

That's alright...also I don't think I can buy a PWM splitter anywhere here, is there any other way to power the second Blademaster...?


----------



## PapaSmurf

I don't know where "here" is, but I do know they are available (one of the problems with not filling in your location accurately). If you can't find one use any of the other 3 fan headers on that motherboard


----------



## Gamingnub

Hey, add me to the club!


----------



## Rpg2

First time using this in my bro's comp and his x2 7850 gets 28C load on Prime95 @ 3.2Ghz. Ambient is around 20-21C. I imagine it's the chips running cool, but that is surprisingly lower than I expected.


----------



## Netkaos

I just bought one of these, paired it with AS5 and a cheep case (HEC 63RABB)
My ambient temp is about 20c, core temp via HW Monitor is between 17c-19c at idle. and at load under OCCT Linpack only reached 36c, still testing. So far it's a big improvement from my Zelman CNPS8000 which in an of itself was a fair after market cooler.


----------



## hyujmn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Netkaos;11637258*
> I just bought one of these, paired it with AS5 and a cheep case (HEC 63RABB)
> My ambient temp is about 20c, core temp via HW Monitor is between 17c-19c at idle. and at load under OCCT Linpack only reached 36c, still testing. So far it's a big improvement from my Zelman CNPS8000 which in an of itself was a fair after market cooler.


Your sensors are wrong. It's impossible for your Core Temps to be lower than ambient.

Edit: Not entirely impossible, but using air cooling it is. You'd need DICE or LN2, etc to get lower than ambient.


----------



## Rust1d?

I bought one of these a while back at MC for like $15 and wanted to know if this will work on the new Sandy Bridge mobos...thanks!


----------



## Ben the OCer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rust1d?;11639971*
> I bought one of these a while back at MC for like $15 and wanted to know if this will work on the new Sandy Bridge mobos...thanks!


After doing a little searching it looks like the CM 212+ will fit Sandy Bridge LGA1155 because it uses the same mounting holes as LGA1156: link. So you should be good to go if you want to upgrade to Sandy Bridge and use the 212+.


----------



## Tleilaxu Ghola

Right now I am running at 4.20 GHz and stay in the mid to upper 40's on a single-fan setup out of the box. If I add a 2nd fan where could I look around for some high quality, QUIET 2-fan kits?

Or should I keep with bang-for-the-buck theme and add a 2nd fan from the factory....?

I am beyond happy with this cooler, for $25 at newegg you can't beat it.









It's a club I had to join.


----------



## EVILNOK

Got mine through NewEgg for 25$ on sale about a month ago. The heatsink comes out a little farther than I thought it would but I still have about an inch between it and the side panel so its all good.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Netkaos;11637258*
> I just bought one of these, paired it with AS5 and a cheep case (HEC 63RABB)
> My ambient temp is about 20c, core temp via HW Monitor is between 17c-19c at idle. and at load under OCCT Linpack only reached 36c, still testing. So far it's a big improvement from my Zelman CNPS8000 which in an of itself was a fair after market cooler.


Can't happen on air. It's impossible for a cpu to be colder than the ambient room temp. Either the sensors are wrong, the monitor is mis-calibraded, or the room is a lot colder than you are reporting. At best your cpu idle temps should be 5C or more above ambient room temp, more likely 8 to 10C above it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tleilaxu Ghola;11640162*
> Right now I am running at 4.20 GHz and stay in the mid to upper 40's on a single-fan setup out of the box. If I add a 2nd fan where could I look around for some high quality, QUIET 2-fan kits?
> 
> Or should I keep with bang-for-the-buck theme and add a 2nd fan from the factory....?
> 
> I am beyond happy with this cooler, for $25 at newegg you can't beat it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a club I had to join.


Get a second BladeMaster to match the one that comes on them.


----------



## Rust1d?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben the OCer;11640031*
> After doing a little searching it looks like the CM 212+ will fit Sandy Bridge LGA1155 because it uses the same mounting holes as LGA1156: link. So you should be good to go if you want to upgrade to Sandy Bridge and use the 212+.


Thanks! It has been sitting under my desk for months, so I can look forward to using it


----------



## brianfast

Hey guys just built my computer (core i5 750 at stock speeds with turbo) few days ago. In Prime 95/IntelBurntest I get about 29 degrees C idle and 55 C was the highest any core got. Is this acceptable?


----------



## Netkaos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11640617*
> Can't happen on air. It's impossible for a cpu to be colder than the ambient room temp. Either the sensors are wrong, the monitor is mis-calibraded, or the room is a lot colder than you are reporting. At best your cpu idle temps should be 5C or more above ambient room temp, more likely 8 to 10C above it.
> 
> Get a second BladeMaster to match the one that comes on them.


It wouldn't surprise me if either of them or both were wrong. My room stays below 70F this time of year, so I am leaning towards my CPU sensor being off.
I'd suspected as much, but I have yet to purchase an inferred thermometer. I think my core temp may be off by as much as 10c but I don't have proof yet.


----------



## chadrew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brianfast;11645494*
> Hey guys just built my computer (core i5 750 at stock speeds with turbo) few days ago. In Prime 95/IntelBurntest I get about 29 degrees C idle and 55 C was the highest any core got. Is this acceptable?


55C on load, yes that's very good IMHO.


----------



## jetpuck73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brianfast;11645494*
> Hey guys just built my computer (core i5 750 at stock speeds with turbo) few days ago. In Prime 95/IntelBurntest I get about 29 degrees C idle and 55 C was the highest any core got. Is this acceptable?


That is great, now overclock it and see!!!


----------



## brianfast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetpuck73*


That is great, now overclock it and see!!!


Highest reading I got under intelburn test from hwmonitor/coretemp/realtemp (all give different readings) was 67 C is this a reason for concern?


----------



## thehybridkiwi

Do you guys think it's still okay if I have my Hyper 212 Plus as a PULL-only setup? I've just seated on a GA-P55A-UD3 / i5-760 and, when I have it as a PUSH-only configuration, I can't drop in Ripjaws on the first DIMM.

So, PULL-only setup still okay? (I won't be overclocking the CPU.)


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thehybridkiwi*


Do you guys think it's still okay if I have my Hyper 212 Plus as a PULL-only setup? I've just seated on a GA-P55A-UD3 / i5-760 and, when I have it as a PUSH-only configuration, I can't drop in Ripjaws on the first DIMM.

So, PULL-only setup still okay? (I won't be overclocking the CPU.)


If you aren't overclocking, there would be no trouble, I'm sure pull would suffice.

Try it and see how your temps are.


----------



## thehybridkiwi

Thanks BlackHoleSon for your reply. Unfortunately, I can't test it out since that would mean opening up my Ripjaws... and won't be able to return them if I run into any problems


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thehybridkiwi;11693111*
> Do you guys think it's still okay if I have my Hyper 212 Plus as a PULL-only setup? I've just seated on a GA-P55A-UD3 / i5-760 and, when I have it as a PUSH-only configuration, I can't drop in Ripjaws on the first DIMM.
> 
> So, PULL-only setup still okay? (I won't be overclocking the CPU.)


Possibly. Have you tried mounting the Push fan a bit higher up on the heatsink than normal so it clears the ram? It might hang over the top a bit and you might need to use some wire ties to hold the fan on, but it would be worth trying.


----------



## Pieiam

Add me


----------



## thehybridkiwi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11694779*
> Possibly. Have you tried mounting the Push fan a bit higher up on the heatsink than normal so it clears the ram? It might hang over the top a bit and you might need to use some wire ties to hold the fan on, but it would be worth trying.


Haha.. that's exactly what I ended up doing and it cleared my Ripjaws perfectly







About 5% of the fan is up past the heat sink, but I don't think that'll significantly affect its performance.

Regardless, thanks for your input PapaSmurf. +Rep for a workable solution.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Glad I could help. That's about how much I figured it would be. You might loose 5 to 10% of airflow (if that much), but it would still be a lot better than just a pull fan. The other idea I came up with but didn't get a chance to post due to my Internet connection being down was using a thinner fan for the push, but I wasn't sure if there would be enough clearance or not and those thinner fans don't have the air flow or pressure of the stock BladeMaster that comes with them.

Just keep an eye on your temps for a couple of days to make sure everything is working like it should though, just in case. But I doubt you will have a problem.


----------



## thehybridkiwi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackHoleSon;11693166*
> If you aren't overclocking, there would be no trouble, I'm sure pull would suffice.
> 
> Try it and see how your temps are.


I monitored the temperature of my stock i5-760 in both a push-only and pull-only configurations:

Push-only >> 17-19*C (not correct, see post #881)
Pull-only >> 18-20*C (not correct, see post #881)

This is in a CM690 II Advanced case with stock fans, and a room temperature of ~20*C (might me a tad lower since I'm close to the window).


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thehybridkiwi;11707700*
> I monitored the temperature of my stock i5-760 in both a push-only and pull-only configurations:
> 
> Push-only >> 17-19*C
> Pull-only >> 18-20*C
> 
> This is in a CM690 II Advanced case with stock fans, and a room temperature of ~20*C (might me a tad lower since I'm close to the window).


Having a case like the CM692 that has excellent airflow helps a great deal with your cpu cooling. I'm somewhat surprised that the difference between push only and pull only is that small, but I have to question the accuracy of the results. There is absolutely no way that your cpu temp can be lower than ambient room temp on air, even with speedstep enabled. Either your cpu monitoring software is mis-calibrated, the cpu sensors are bad, or your ambient room temp is 5 to 10C colder than you are reporting.


----------



## thehybridkiwi

The temperature ranges in my original post (#879) were attained using RealTemp.

I did another round of monitoring (half an hour in each configuration), and according to the BIOS:

Push-only: 25-26*C
Pull-only: 26-27*C

Note that this is for the CPU in idle. Under load, the temperature differences may be greater.


----------



## braindrain

Hey guys. I love this cooler. Best budget cooler you can get in South Africa. I want to install a second fan and replace the BladeMaster it came with. Scythe and Yate-Loon fans aren't available locally and Pana-Flos are way to expensive. The decent fans we can get are Coolermaster, Antec, Arctic Cooling, Zalman, Thermaltake and Lian-Li. I want to know which of these would be best for a Push/Pull setup.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103060

or

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-008-_-Product

They both about the same price here and they both available.


----------



## jetpuck73

I just used the Blademaster and a Antec tri-cool.


----------



## braindrain

The Blademaster is a little to noisy and inconsistent for me. Im looking for fans I can have running on max without making my ears bleed.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The R4 is just as loud as the BladeMaster if not louder. The specs listed for it are misleading. The low 19 db is only when the fan is running at it's slowest speed. At full speed everyone I've ever been around has been louder than the BladeMaster that comes with the 212+. My advice is to get another BladeMaster and hook them up to a fan controller.


----------



## braindrain

That was my other option. Hmmm now to find a decent fan controller in this country. Any one know if the Zalman MFC1 Plus is any good?


----------



## ocman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11752664*
> The R4 is just as loud as the BladeMaster if not louder. The specs listed for it are misleading. The low 19 db is only when the fan is running at it's slowest speed. At full speed everyone I've ever been around has been louder than the BladeMaster that comes with the 212+. My advice is to get another BladeMaster and hook them up to a fan controller.


Agreed... I have 5 units of R4 with Green LED running... so noisy...







but if I took out two of them from the side... the noise level is much more acceptable.


----------



## H0urg1ass

Hey guys, my first post here and I have a question:

I installed this thing extremely carefully while following the youtube video instructions and applying the thermal paste using the thin line method.

The first thing that bothered me about this cooler is that it slides around over my CPU... a lot. I was always pretty sure that when these things are properly tightened, then they shouldn't budge at all. This thing is as tight as I can crank it down and it still slides around. Is this normal with newer air coolers?

Second, I'm not getting the readings that I thought I would be getting on Realtemp. When I run Prime95 and monitor temps, I quickly jump up to 65C and if I let it run on full load for another 20 minutes it will start to budge up to about 70-72C.

I have it mounted on an ASUS Rampage Formula III mobo and I have a very slight overclock on my i7-950 (3.33MHz at around 1.2V) and I have HT turned off. With HT turned on the temps SOAR up to the 85C range.. and I'm not even sure that's safe.

Any pictures or videos or other help with how to mount this thing so it doesn't slide around and cools better would be a great help!


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you mean it can rotate from side to side, that is normal for most heatsinks and nothing to worry about.

Without seeing the video you watched there is no way for me to know if you used the correct method or not. The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle or single line rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## H0urg1ass

Yeah, it will rotate on it's axis around the CPU a bit too, but it actually slides from side to side. So much so that I was able to slide it over enough to completely avoid the RAM heatsinks with the fan.

Thanks for the link. I think I'll pop it out tomorrow and reapply the TIM. That could account for quite a bit of the heating issue if the coverage is lousy.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If it slides more than a mm you didn't install it correctly. There is a pin in the middle of the x bracket that fits in a hole in the top of the base of the heatsink surface to prevent it from sliding.

Look at this image to see the hole I'm referring to. Below that is a pic of the X_Bracket with the Pivot/Centering Pin It's directly under the knurled nut on top of the bracket at the pivot point.


----------



## H0urg1ass

Hrmmm, my memory is going bad. I did put this rig together two months ago and I only started overclocking it today so that may account for me thinking that it "slid around" too much.

It does only pivot around the axis. I pulled it apart and checked after seeing those pics. Still, that just seemed sloppy to me.

As highly rated as this cooler comes, I haven't been too impressed so far. Hopefully when I reapply the TIM to fill the heatpipe gaps and get good coverage, the CPU temps will drop a lot.


----------



## PapaSmurf

First off pivoting around like that doesn't lower it's cooling efficiency one bit or how securely it's mounted so don't worry about that.

It is highly rated, but like most components it has it's limitations. It is the best bang for the buck heatsink out there, but when installed on an i7 900 series cpu and highly overclocked it simply isn't capable of handling it as well as the bigger heatsinks that cost 3 to 4 times as much. It simply doesn't have enough mass to handle the heat put out by an i7 under those circumstances. The same thing happens with the H50 and H70. Like everything else you get what you paid for.


----------



## thehybridkiwi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H0urg1ass;11858512*
> Hrmmm, my memory is going bad. I did put this rig together two months ago and I only started overclocking it today so that may account for me thinking that it "slid around" too much.
> 
> It does only pivot around the axis. I pulled it apart and checked after seeing those pics. Still, that just seemed sloppy to me.
> 
> As highly rated as this cooler comes, I haven't been too impressed so far. Hopefully when I reapply the TIM to fill the heatpipe gaps and get good coverage, the CPU temps will drop a lot.


Check to make sure you've tightened the heat sink securely to the processor - it shouldn't be sliding around or pivoting around the axis. I installed one a few weeks back (i5-760/GA-P55A-UD3) and I was able to solidly secure it to the motherboard fairly easily.


----------



## Eno75

Can I still be put on the club list even though I recently put mine on the shelf? I'm a HUGE advocate of this naughty little sink and would recommend it to ANYONE.

Even with a single fan it was giving my stock H70 a run for its money- It needs a little extra thermal paste to accommodate the direct heat pipes but wow! What a great little device!

Anyway, if you'll add me I'll be happy. I'm keeping it for my next little budget rig!


----------



## stockleyrod

Installed Mine 2 days ago, Finished my first build yesterday evening.

I don't know what to expect for temperatures but here's what I got so far

Ambient 21C-22C
Idle 27C-28C
Load 46C


----------



## maTyaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stockleyrod;11879608*
> Installed Mine 2 days ago, Finished my first build yesterday evening.
> 
> I don't know what to expect for temperatures but here's what I got so far
> 
> Ambient 21C-22C
> Idle 27C-28C
> Load 46C


Exactly the same results I received on my i7-860 stock. I've bumped it to 3.86Ghz and it stays at 60 degrees celsius on prime95.

The best budget CPU Cooler at its price.

Note: I actually have the fan pulling air on the left side rather than on the right (I actually switched the fan attachments to the opposite side) because a few more inches will be pulling more air from my rear chassis fan.

I've also used MX-2 instead of its own thermal paste.


----------



## stockleyrod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maTyaR;11880027*
> Note: I actually have the fan pulling air on the left side rather than on the right (I actually switched the fan attachments to the opposite side) because a few more inches will be pulling more air from my rear chassis fan.
> 
> I've also used MX-2 instead of its own thermal paste.


This was my first time installing a cooler so I think I could have applied the paste better. I've read in the last hour or so to use a credit card to get the paste down in the gaps on the sides of the heat pipes... So I'm gonna order some better paste and try it again.


----------



## luanswan2002

Yo!


----------



## luanswan2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pieiam;11696705*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add me


We have the same cooller, motherboard, graphics card and ram........... CREEPY!!


----------



## maTyaR

Yep, better paste does help a bit.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stockleyrod*


This was my first time installing a cooler so I think I could have applied the paste better. I've read in the last hour or so to use a credit card to get the paste down in the gaps on the sides of the heat pipes... So I'm gonna order some better paste and try it again.


I recommend getting Arctic Cooling MX-2 or MX-3 or IC Diamond 7. The difference between them and the stock TIM that CM ships with it is only about 1C though. Avoid anything made my Arctic Silver.


----------



## Shooter116

Must say... I am still loving this cooler. Had it for some time now and even with 2 dust clogged fans, it still keeps my 550be at 40*C max with the stock paste and 73*F ambient.


----------



## gtsteviiee

How do you guys put on your thermal paste? I can't seem to get this right..


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee;11904513*
> How do you guys put on your thermal paste? I can't seem to get this right..


The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## TouchyFeely

This thing has worked pretty well for me, I dont get why it would be better than a Zalman but hey I got mine for 25.00 shipped.


----------



## thx1138

So I just ordered one of these. I'm actually switching back from a full water cooled system to air just because I need something low maintenance at this point and time. I have two ultra kaze 3000's that I was thinking about using on this cooler as a push pull. I came here to see what the results you guys were getting with this configuration but when I searched the thread for "kaze" only 3 results came up and out of those 3 only one guy said he was actually using uk3000's.

So who else is running uk3000's with this cooler? I would like to see some comparisons between the stock fan and those. I'm not worried about noise since I have a fan controller I just run them at 1700 at idle and blast them when I'm gaming with my headphones on.


----------



## PapaSmurf

You probably won't find that many people using them as the stock BladeMaster that comes with the 212+ will cool within 1-2C of an Ultra Kaze at a lot lower sound level.


----------



## Gabe63

Bought one at Frys because it was $10 after MIR and has great reviews. I cant wait to use it. Next build.

BTW, some of the rigs in this post are awesome! I loved the one with red fans!


----------



## BassDX

Hi, I bought the 212+ and am going to assemble my new build very soon. This is my first time installing an aftermarket cooler, and in particular I want to clarify how to spread the thermal paste.

I already know about the three line method mentioned in the guide, but I still want to make sure I understand it correctly. I am not quite sure if you are supposed to spread the paste onto the base manually after applying it or just rely on the contact pressure when attaching the base to the CPU. The guide sort of implied that, but I have seen videos of people spreading the paste manually when installing it, as well as using additional paste on the cpu itself.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## ocman

I find IC Diamond 7 rather thick and a little difficult to spread over the metal surface. It actually took me more or less half an hour to get the paste on close to evenly... It's my 1st time though... the temps has dropped a bit at stock speed from at best 26C to a solid 25C... after I overclocked the lowest I see is 26C and not higher than 43C under load.

I think this is nice and I'm glad for getting 1C Diamond 7 to replace the Shin Etsu on my H-50.









PapaSmurf, can I still become a member of this club if I own a CM Hyper 212+?


----------



## Siegfried262

Hey guys,

I have a Hyper 212 Plus on the way which I'm rather excited about as a belated X-mas gift from a friend to replace the stock cooler I'm using.









I've got two Gentle Typhoon AP-14s lying about I plan on using in push/pull. They've worked wonders before as heatsink fans at a low noise level but have any of you personally used them with the Hyper 212?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocman;11933830*
> I find IC Diamond 7 rather thick and a little difficult to spread over the metal surface. It actually took me more or less half an hour to get the paste on close to evenly... It's my 1st time though... the temps has dropped a bit at stock speed from at best 26C to a solid 25C... after I overclocked the lowest I see is 26C and not higher than 43C under load.
> 
> I think this is nice and I'm glad for getting 1C Diamond 7 to replace the Shin Etsu on my H-50.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PapaSmurf, can I still become a member of this club if I own a CM Hyper 212+?


It's not my club so I don't make the final decision, but since it is the Hyper 212+ club I don't see why not. It doesn't matter if you refer to it as the 212+ or 212 Plus, it all amounts to the same thing.

I'm using IC Diamond 7 on mine as well. I didn't find mine to be that thick or difficult to work with, but I'm been using Arctic Cooling MX-2 and MX-3 for several years which have a similar consistency so I'm used to working with it. What I tend to do is warm it up by placing it in direct sunlight on a window sill, place it on a heating vent in cold weather, or with a hair dryer before I apply it to make it easier to work with.


----------



## ocman

Hi RyuTakezaki, can I join this club? Thanks!


----------



## Atmosphere

I got my CM Hyper 12 + today and it's really dropped the CPU idle temp from my previous cooler, the Blue Orb.

I just put a blob of pea size thermal paste in the center and I'm idling at about 30degrees Celsius.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Welcome to OCN.

That sometimes works, but for the most part it doesn't work nearly as well as the method posted preciously. But that sounds high to me, but idle temps are basically meaningless especially without knowing what the ambient room temps are. 30C is 10c above the average room temp of 68-70F. Plus without knowing the hardware it's installed on it's impossible to know how good that is. You need to click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, then scroll down the left side to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with.


----------



## Keymaster4225

I guess I'll post my concerns about my system here, since I have a CM Hyper 212+. I have my i7 950 OC'ed to 4.095 gHz at 1.3v. RealTemp readings at idle are: 45 44 45 41. Ambient temp is 72* F. I have two fans on the Hyper 212+ in push/pull, a 120mm on the rear of the case blowing air out, and a 120mm on the front of the case in a pull config. Can't put a 120mm on the side, due to the height of the Hyper 212+, but may look into getting perhaps an 80mm to put on it. Under Prime95 load (small FFT), I'm getting up to 73C. I know it's not horrible, but it's higher than I'd like. Any suggestions?


----------



## PapaSmurf

A fan on the side panel won't do anything to help at all. If anything it will make things worse. All it will be doing is blowing air onto the top of the heatsink and the fans instead of into the the fins. If it has any effect at all it will be to disrupt the airflow into the heatsink fan. Don't waste your time worrying about it.

Based on what I know of the i7 950's you are actually getting better temps than I would have expected under those conditions. I've seen higher load temps with better heatsinks. As for idle temps, they are meaningless and quite often inaccurate. You might want to check out some of the i7 overclocking threads here at OCN to see what they have to say about those temps, but I think you are fine and would need to spend $60 or more to do any better, and then probably only a couple of degrees better.


----------



## Keymaster4225

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


A fan on the side panel won't do anything to help at all. If anything it will make things worse. All it will be doing is blowing air onto the top of the heatsink and the fans instead of into the the fins. If it has any effect at all it will be to disrupt the airflow into the heatsink fan. Don't waste your time worrying about it.

Based on what I know of the i7 950's you are actually getting better temps than I would have expected under those conditions. I've seen higher load temps with better heatsinks. As for idle temps, they are meaningless and quite often inaccurate. You might want to check out some of the i7 overclocking threads here at OCN to see what they have to say about those temps, but I think you are fine and would need to spend $60 or more to do any better, and then probably only a couple of degrees better.


I've been reading some of the i7 threads, but hadn't paid enough attention to the temps people were encountering. Thanks for the advice though, I won't worry about a side fan. I wish this case had better ventilation at the front for the fan there, doesn't let much air in.

One other question that I forgot...

Will the fans run at 100% if I use the 4-pin molex connectors instead of the 3-pin one that comes on them?


----------



## Atmosphere

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Welcome to OCN.

That sometimes works, but for the most part it doesn't work nearly as well as the method posted preciously. But that sounds high to me, but idle temps are basically meaningless especially without knowing what the ambient room temps are. 30C is 10c above the average room temp of 68-70F. Plus without knowing the hardware it's installed on it's impossible to know how good that is. You need to click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, then scroll down the left side to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with.


I just re-applied thermal paste by adding 3 small stripes however now it's idling at about 32-33, I may have done it badly though. I'll add system specs now.

EDIT: added


----------



## PapaSmurf

Keymaster, if you only have one Optical drive you can knock out the inner metal 5.25" covers and zip tie a 120mm fan in the bottom 3 5.25" bays that will really increase the airflow towards the CPU Heatsink.

Running the fans off of a 4pin molex directly off of the PSU will more than likely get them to run a slight bit faster than running them off of the 3pin fan headers on the motherboard. I don't think it would be enough to make any noticeable difference in temps though.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Atmosphere*


I just re-applied thermal paste by adding 3 small stripes however now it's idling at about 32-33, I may have done it badly though. I'll add system specs now.

EDIT: added


I wouldn't worry about your idle temps so much. Concentrate on your load temps. Depending on the TIM you used it can take anywhere from a couple of minutes (Arctic Cooling MX-2, MX-3, or IC Diamond 7) to as long as 2 weeks (anything from Arctic Silver) for it to properly setup and yield optimum temps.

Did you apply the strips according to this guide and cram some of it into the crevices?


----------



## Atmosphere

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I wouldn't worry about your idle temps so much. Concentrate on your load temps. Depending on the TIM you used it can take anywhere from a couple of minutes (Arctic Cooling MX-2, MX-3, or IC Diamond 7) to as long as 2 weeks (anything from Arctic Silver) for it to properly setup and yield optimum temps.

Did you apply the strips according to this guide and cram some of it into the crevices?


Ok thanks. I actually added the strips on to my cpu and not the heatsink but they looked similar to that on that guide.


----------



## Keymaster4225

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Keymaster, *if you only have one Optical drive you can knock out the inner metal 5.25" covers and zip tie a 120mm fan in the bottom 3 5.25" bays that will really increase the airflow towards the CPU Heatsink. *

Running the fans off of a 4pin molex directly off of the PSU will more than likely get them to run a slight bit faster than running them off of the 3pin fan headers on the motherboard. I don't think it would be enough to make any noticeable difference in temps though.


Now there's something I may well try... Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## Atmosphere

Thinking of re-doing the paste, which would be better, the Artic Silver I have somewhere or the Coolermaster paste that came with the product?


----------



## PapaSmurf

The CoolerMaster. Arctic Silver is highly over rated. I stopped using it several years ago once other companies started making considerably better TIM. Arctic Cooling MX-2 or3 and IC Diamond 7 are your best bets overall. The stock stuff that CoolerMaster ships with the 212+ would be next, but only about 1c difference if properly applied. Shin Itsu makes some good stuff and some so so stuff so unless you know for sure which one it isn't worth getting especially since it costs 4 to 6 times as much as the Arctic Cooling or IC Diamond.

Arctic Silver would be after that, but since it takes about 2 weeks to cure and requires the system to be turned off for periods of at least an hour several times a day to cure properly it's a waste of time and money. Even then, the chances are that the temps will be 2C or more HIGHER than the other TIM mentioned. It also needs to be re-applied once a year as well. None of the others have a long curing time, most of them will cure within a few minutes to an hour at the most and an application will last for up to 5 years, not that any of us would leave a heatsink mounted that long. With all of that one can see that Arctic Silver is a big waste of time and money.


----------



## Atmosphere

Ok thanks, the coolermaster thermal paste it is then.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The main thing is how you apply it though. Make sure you cram some into the crevices between the heatpipes and the base.


----------



## Atmosphere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11963153*
> The main thing is how you apply it though. Make sure you cram some into the crevices between the heatpipes and the base.


So it would be better to apply it to the heat sink rather than the CPU?


----------



## PapaSmurf

The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## Meatsauce

I just received my Hyper 212+ in the mail and it looks like a beast. I'm worried though that the CPU fan might get in the way of the first ram slot though. I bought memory that has some tall heatsinks on them. I've got a Asus P8P67 Pro 1155 on the way. Will the Hyper fit and not block ram slots?

TL;DR
Does a Hyper 212+ block any of the ram slots on an Asus P8P67 Pro with an 1155 socket? Does anyone have pics?


----------



## PapaSmurf

I don't know, but you can do what several people have done and mount the fan a bit higher up on the heatsink so it does clear. It doesn't have to be centered exactly. Having it raised a quarter of an inch or so won't have enough effect on it's cooling to matter.

You need to click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, then scroll down the left side to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with.


----------



## Meatsauce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11976194*
> I don't know, but you can do what several people have done and mount the fan a bit higher up on the heatsink so it does clear. It doesn't have to be centered exactly. Having it raised a quarter of an inch or so won't have enough effect on it's cooling to matter.


They were out of G.Skill when I ordered so I went with these huge guys.


----------



## rchads89

Hi guys....

Im thinking of using a hyper 212 for my upcoming 2600k rig.

The cooler seems amazing for its price :S

I have a few questions.

1. Would it cool a 2600k @ say 4.5GHz maybe higher depending if i can achieve it.
2. I believe you can use push/pull setup do mega clips work on the cooler to mount the 2 fan?
3. Do you think its a good cooler? i know they is better but how does it perform again say a mega?

Many thanks


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rchads89;11977105*
> Hi guys....
> 
> Im thinking of using a hyper 212 for my upcoming 2600k rig.
> 
> The cooler seems amazing for its price :S
> 
> I have a few questions.
> 
> 1. Would it cool a 2600k @ say 4.5GHz maybe higher depending if i can achieve it.


It's a lot better than the stock heatsink, but 4.5ghz is probably pushing it a bit. These are one of, if not the best bang for your buck heatsinks, but they do have their limitations. I think it would top out with reasonable temps somewhere around 4.0 to 4.2, but the only way to know for sure is to try it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rchads89;11977105*
> 2. I believe you can use push/pull setup do mega clips work on the cooler to mount the 2 fan?


Yes. They include two sets of clips to do just that. One set is mounted on the included fan already and the other set is in the box along with a set of screws and rubber anti-vibration pads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rchads89;11977105*
> 3. Do you think its a good cooler? i know they is better but how does it perform again say a mega?


As I stated previously, it's one of, if not the best bang for your buck heatsink. It will handle an OC quite well, but it can't compete with the $60 and up (plus the cost of fans) heatsinks when it comes to extreme overclocking, but for the usual $20 to $25 with a good fan included price it's excellent.

It will also depend on the ambient room temp the computer is in and the case cooling. It will outperform an H50 and most H70s though, at least in their stock form and under the same conditions.


----------



## foX2delta777

So I finally got my 212 plus, and its made a huge difference!

I was idling at 55-62 during the day and evening and my load temps were in the low 70's (for about 6months) now my idle temp is 35 (room at 20-25) and load them is 50max (so far).

Load results (currently)
Room temp: 32.8
Temp exiting cooler: 35.5
CPU temp 50
Other details: Cpu at 100% for 30min (at 3.0GHz)
Fans in push/pull config
Side panel off

Idle results (currently)
Room temp: 32.8
Temp exiting cooler: 35.5
CPU temp 45-46
Other details: Cpu at idle (10% usage) for 30min (at 3.0GHz)
Fans in push/pull config
Side panel off

Downside: is that in my Antec 900 I cant have a side fan installed, in touches and cant close case.

I must add that I put a little bit to much paste on the cooler. I put a tiny bit on cpu, and took almost all of it off (to fill in any holes I thought (has heat spreader)), then put on the cooler and filled in the gaps of the heat pipes and took most of it off (should have taken a lot more off), then I put two THIN lines and DIDN'T rub it in. And when I put it on some came out between the cooler base and cpu contact region.

All in all install was rather easy, will post pics if anyone wants.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foX2delta777;11982741*
> 
> Downside: is that in my Antec 900 I cant have a side fan installed, in touches and cant close case.


Not a downside at all. Having a fan there won't do a darn thing for you anyway, at least not anything good. It would be blowing directly onto the top of the heatsink and sides of the fans so if anything it would just disrupt the airflow causing temps to go up instead of down. You are better off without it.


----------



## foX2delta777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11987417*
> Not a downside at all. Having a fan there won't do a darn thing for you anyway, at least not anything good. It would be blowing directly onto the top of the heatsink and sides of the fans so if anything it would just disrupt the airflow causing temps to go up instead of down. You are better off without it.


Hmmm you have a point, but I like the idea of fresh air into the case and over the gpu, but right now my side is off so no real worries.


----------



## Meatsauce

Does anyone know the quality of the thermal compound included with the Hyper 212? I'm either going to use that or some AS5 that I've had for a couple of years.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foX2delta777;11994022*
> Hmmm you have a point, but I like the idea of fresh air into the case and over the gpu, but right now my side is off so no real worries.


I can understand that, but you might need to either mod the side panel to place a fan where it will do some good or try one of the thin fans (120 x 10 instead of a 120 x 25). Another option is to mount the fan on the OUTSIDE of the side panel instead of the inside.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meatsauce;11996662*
> Does anyone know the quality of the thermal compound included with the Hyper 212? I'm either going to use that or some AS5 that I've had for a couple of years.


The stock TIM that comes with it is as good if not better than AS5. AS5 is highly over rated.


----------



## foX2delta777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;11996962*
> I can understand that, but you might need to either mod the side panel to place a fan where it will do some good or try one of the thin fans (120 x 10 instead of a 120 x 25). Another option is to mount the fan on the OUTSIDE of the side panel instead of the inside.


I don't see me being able to mount it outside, and I will take a closer look to see how it connects and if a thin fan could work, however not at home currently.


----------



## Zardoz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *foX2delta777*


I don't see me being able to mount it outside, and I will take a closer look to see how it connects and if a thin fan could work, however not at home currently.


Just finished throwing the rest of my ordered parts together, including a hypermaster 212+. Didn't have room for both side fans so i did indeed mount it on the outside of the case.

For mine i had to remove the pin connect for the fan, feed it through one of the smaller fan mounting holes and then put the connector back on.

If you look at how it's all put together it's very easy to switch out 4 pin connectors for 3 pin, or to splice multiple fans into one lead (which i ended up having to do to connect to my fan controller as my intake fan only had a molex connector)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


The stock TIM that comes with it is as good if not better than AS5. AS5 is highly over rated.


I chose to use arctic silver because it has a generally higher thermal conductence (>350,000W/m2 Â°C (0.001 inch layer) ) than most available at newegg.

So far it's working pretty slick


----------



## foX2delta777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zardoz*


Just finished throwing the rest of my ordered parts together, including a hypermaster 212+. Didn't have room for both side fans so i did indeed mount it on the outside of the case.

For mine i had to remove the pin connect for the fan, feed it through one of the smaller fan mounting holes and then put the connector back on.

If you look at how it's all put together it's very easy to switch out 4 pin connectors for 3 pin, or to splice multiple fans into one lead (which i ended up having to do to connect to my fan controller as my intake fan only had a molex connector)


I can only mount mine inside. if I mount it outside I must drill through the metal mesh, which I rather not damage..

I am looking at if a thinner 120mm fan will fit, which looks like it will, am going to make a cardboard fan and see if it closes with that to be sure.


----------



## kingsrule5

Got this in my rig earlier in the week. Around a 10-12 degree drop compared to the thermaltake silent 775d heatsink it had.

I wasnt feeling patient enough to wait for delivery so i picked it up in store for $30 but for an extra $5 I am glad I didn't wait for this beauty.


----------



## Zardoz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *foX2delta777*


I can only mount mine outside if I drill through the metal mesh, which I water not damage..

I am looking at if a thinner 120mm fan will fit, which looks like it will, am going to make a cardboard fan and see if it closes with that to be sure.


Well it's still a simple fix, use zip ties or even wire/twine, get ahold of some foam rubber to make standooffs to handle vibration, and make sure it's tightly attached.

Necessity is the mother of invention right?


----------



## hyujmn

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kingsrule5*


Got this in my rig earlier in the week. Around a 10-12 degree drop compared to the thermaltake silent 775d heatsink it had.

I wasnt feeling patient enough to wait for delivery so i picked it up in store for $30 but for an extra $5 I am glad I didn't wait for this beauty.


Blademasters don't do very well when they're blowing vertically.


----------



## foX2delta777

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Zardoz*


Well it's still a simple fix, use zip ties or even wire/twine, get ahold of some foam rubber to make standooffs to handle vibration, and make sure it's tightly attached.

Necessity is the mother of invention right?


tushay, will give it a think


----------



## foX2delta777

Here are some pics of it in.

I should add that the cooler DOES touch the fins of the cooler right below the CPU, this means that the CPU fits a little off centre (not square, a degree of two off), and doesn't cover the CPU completely (because the fins prevent the cooler from sitting where it wants to), but we talking 0.2cm^2 and max and its just on one the edge, but my temps are way low and it fits really solidly, its tight as hell.
For ref my board is a ASUS M2N32 SLI Deluxe


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hyujmn*


Blademasters don't do very well when they're blowing vertically.


Incorrect. They do just as well vertically as they do horizontally. The only thing is due to them having a sleeve bearing you'll probably need to remove it, clean it, and re-lube it once a year or so. Otherwise it's fine


----------



## Atmosphere

Picture of mine:










Sorry about quality, it was taken with my phone.


----------



## Shooter116

Nice! I have one of those cases laying around at my job.

Now close those empty ram slots!


----------



## PapaSmurf

I had one of the Antec SoHo 1040's that is basically the same case without the graphics. Solid as they come. They are actually great cases even today with lot's of modding potential. In many ways it's better than a large portion of the crappola cases they sell today.


----------



## Atmosphere

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shooter116*


Now close those empty ram slots!


Have done.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I had one of the Antec SoHo 1040's that is basically the same case without the graphics. Solid as they come. They are actually great cases even today with lot's of modding potential. In many ways it's better than a large portion of the crappola cases they sell today.


It's satisfactory for cooling, I'd like a new case but being a student I don't have alot of spare money, and next year when I'm at uni it'll be even worse.


----------



## RyuTakezaki

Updated


----------



## Atmosphere

Re-applied thermal paste today. First I tried the line method, think I added too much as the temps were up to about 40degrees idle. I applied the dot method and temps are about 33-34 degrees idle and my room is slightly warmer than it normally is.

Oh I've also put the coolermaster fan as intaking the cool air and my other fan exhausting it, I think the coolermaster is a bit faster than my other one.


----------



## yoshi245

I was wondering how would 2 Silverstone FM-121's do on a hyper212+? I got 2 fm-121's myself and it's on my current sunbeam ccf cooler and does the job fine, but if I can setup a push/pull with it on a hyper212+, would it perform better or worse than my CCF with 1 FM121?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoshi245;12047076*
> I was wondering how would 2 Silverstone FM-121's do on a hyper212+? I got 2 fm-121's myself and it's on my current sunbeam ccf cooler and does the job fine, but if I can setup a push/pull with it on a hyper212+, would it perform better or worse than my CCF with 1 FM121?


*Silverstone FN-121*
Size: 120x25mm, 9 blades
Bearing: na
Speed: 1200 RPM
Airflow: 53.24 CFM
SPL: 26.6 dBA
Static Pressure: 0.91 mmH2O

Results on the Megahalems 12v:

Speed: 1185 RPM (average)
CPU temp over ambient: 57c

*CM Blade Master Specs:*

Size: 120x25mm, 7 blades
Bearing: Long Life Sleeve
Speed: 600 - 2000 R.P.M., PWM control
Airflow: 21.2 - 76.8 CFM
SPL: 13 - 32 dBA
Static Pressure: 0.40 - 3.90 mmH2O
Features: PWM control. Comes with corner pads.

Results on the Megahalems:

Average of two fans individually:

Speed: 1950 RPM
CPU temp over ambient: 52.5c
SPL: 33 dBA

According to the specs the BladeMaster fan that comes with 212+ is a much better fan than the FN-121. Even using two FN-121's in a Push/Pull setup the single BladeMaster would give lower temps. The FN-121's would be a bit quieter, but you give up quite a bit of cooling power due to the decreased Static Pressure.

Results taken from EHume's excellent The Well Dressed Megahalems fan comparison thread. They were performed on a Megahalems Heatsink, not the 212+, but due to similar fin densities of the two similar results can be expected.


----------



## yoshi245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12047262*
> *Silverstone FN-121*
> Size: 120x25mm, 9 blades
> Bearing: na
> Speed: 1200 RPM
> Airflow: 53.24 CFM
> SPL: 26.6 dBA
> Static Pressure: 0.91 mmH2O
> 
> Results on the Megahalems 12v:
> 
> Speed: 1185 RPM (average)
> CPU temp over ambient: 57c
> 
> *CM Blade Master Specs:*
> 
> Size: 120x25mm, 7 blades
> Bearing: Long Life Sleeve
> Speed: 600 - 2000 R.P.M., PWM control
> Airflow: 21.2 - 76.8 CFM
> SPL: 13 - 32 dBA
> Static Pressure: 0.40 - 3.90 mmH2O
> Features: PWM control. Comes with corner pads.
> 
> Results on the Megahalems:
> 
> Average of two fans individually:
> 
> Speed: 1950 RPM
> CPU temp over ambient: 52.5c
> SPL: 33 dBA
> 
> According to the specs the BladeMaster fan that comes with 212+ is a much better fan than the FN-121. Even using two FN-121's in a Push/Pull setup the single BladeMaster would give lower temps. The FN-121's would be a bit quieter, but you give up quite a bit of cooling power due to the decreased Static Pressure.
> 
> Results taken from EHume's excellent The Well Dressed Megahalems fan comparison thread. They were performed on a Megahalems Heatsink, not the 212+, but due to similar fin densities of the two similar results can be expected.


Well I can take the noise level of my FM-121 all the way up to 2000rpm (only about 250 or so short of max) itself before it gets annoying. So how much static pressure would the FM121 offer at that fan speed? Also, is low static pressure better for pushing or pulling?


----------



## PapaSmurf

I just re-read it and realized that you said FM, not FN. The FM would be closer to the Blademaster as far as Static Pressure than the FN is so it would be closer. Probably no more than 1-2C difference. The only way to know for sure would be to try it.


----------



## Atmosphere

Going to order a second CM Blade Master for the heatsink in the future.


----------



## yoshi245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12047331*
> I just re-read it and realized that you said FM, not FN. The FM would be closer to the Blademaster as far as Static Pressure than the FN is so it would be closer. Probably no more than 1-2C difference. The only way to know for sure would be to try it.


If the difference is only that much, I'll just hold off for some months until after Bulldozer is released. I originally was considering hyper 212+ recently, but I don't know if it's bracket mounting system would be compatible for the AM3+ socket. Maybe if it goes back to $15 again I'll get it (I'm cheap I know).


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atmosphere;12047337*
> Going to order a second CM Blade Master for the heatsink in the future.


Good idea. That should work out excellent for you.


----------



## M0E




----------



## PapaSmurf

M0E, you need to either remove the top pic, or edit out the swearing in it before a Mod drops the hammer. Just a heads up.


----------



## starwa1ker

Just installed this, can I join the club?


----------



## M0E

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


M0E, you need to either remove the top pic, or edit out the swearing in it before a Mod drops the hammer. Just a heads up.


Done, didnt even notice it there. Sorry about that.


----------



## RaCeR123

May I join this awesome club


----------



## Siegfried262

Hey guys,

So I ordered a Hyper 212+ but it was missing a part.

You know the spring on the screw for the mounting bracket? Mine is missing that spring so I'm unable to install the cooler onto my computer.










I've contacted Coolermaster Support but I'm exploring other options as well. Google and ebay haven't yielded results unfortunately. Would any of you have a spare perhaps? Otherwise where I might be able to buy one?

Any advice would be appreciated, thank you.


----------



## foX2delta777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262;12098403*
> Hey guys,
> 
> So I ordered a Hyper 212+ but it was missing a part.
> 
> You know the spring on the screw for the mounting bracket? Mine is missing that spring so I'm unable to install the cooler onto my computer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've contacted Coolermaster Support but I'm exploring other options as well. Google and ebay haven't yielded results unfortunately. Would any of you have a spare perhaps? Otherwise where I might be able to buy one?
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated, thank you.


What I would do is build the space with washers, or anything really.

So first put the two arms together, then put the pin through, then put washers (or an old nut) on to the build up the space and then lightly tighten the nut, then install and REALLY tighten the nut. If the nut slips (loosens), buy one that doesn't.


----------



## ffejrxx

the spring isnt really needed, it just helps the x bracket stay spread the right distances


----------



## Quarker

Will 212+ fit in my case? As you can see, the GPU is pretty high & close to the CPU.










120mm rear fan for reference of size.


----------



## jkmaxfli

CM Hyper 212 Plus + 1x Noctua NF-P12 All 120mm (4x) fans hand regulated 600ot/min .Temperature in room 15.5°C !

*IDLE*










*BURN*


----------



## foX2delta777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quarker;12099059*
> Will 212+ fit in my case? As you can see, the GPU is pretty high & close to the CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 120mm rear fan for reference of size.


Yeah it should, it'll fit over the ram (does in mine), the only concern is that your gfx is close. measure the distance from the card the the center of the cpu cooler, if thats over 60mm then you 100% fine.


----------



## NguyenAdam

I'm going to have one within the next 2-3 days. Add me to the club! :]


----------



## Siegfried262

Could I be added to the member list?


----------



## Siegfried262

Also!

I've got my Phenom II 720 with the fourth core unlocked overclocked to 3.6ghz (Up from the stock 2.8) at 1.5v and with OCCT's stress test I hit about 50 degrees Celsius at load.

Does this sound normal to you guys?


----------



## foX2delta777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262;12198063*
> Also!
> 
> I've got my Phenom II 720 with the fourth core unlocked overclocked to 3.6ghz (Up from the stock 2.8) at 1.5v and with OCCT's stress test I hit about 50 degrees Celsius at load.
> 
> Does this sound normal to you guys?


Depends, whats your ambient temp? 15, 20, 25, 30 deg C etc.

But regardless, it isn't bad at all.

I'd guess you ore about 20deg C


----------



## Siegfried262

About 20-23 ambient, depending.


----------



## foX2delta777

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siegfried262;12198183*
> About 20-23 ambient, depending.


Then i'd say its pretty good, but I am far from the person to ask.

Here my room is at 30deg +, gets to 33-35 sometimes and my load is 55, max ever was 60, but at night its 40-45.

Holt crap Michigan is COLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just open your window and be done with cooling.


----------



## Atmosphere

I decided to switch case to my smaller crappy Apevia X-Cruiser. I'm wondering, would it be better to put the top fan as an intake as it's slighly in front and above of the front fan of the Hyper 212 + so wont it be better if it's blowing cool air right infront of it for the heatsinks intake fan to intake?

EDIT: Did it and it has lowered my CPU temp by about 1 degrees celsius.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It really won't make much difference either way. My advice would be to just unplug it and let the cases airflow use it as a vent. I have an X-Dreamer 2 that I have my folding rig in and that is what I found works best.


----------



## Citra

What are some good fans for the 212+?


----------



## PapaSmurf

One of the best things about the 212+ (aside from the price) is that you you don't need to buy anything extra to get excellent cooling. The BladeMaster fan that comes with it is one of the best you can get for it. Anything that will actually cool better is louder and would only give about a 1C lower temp anyway. You can always pick up a second BladeMaster (not an R4) to run in a push/pull setup. The next step up would be High Speed Yate Loon fans, but the difference isn't worth the additional sound level as far as I'm concerned.

The TIM that comes with it is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX2 or IC Diamond 7.

The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## Citra

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


One of the best things about the 212+ (aside from the price) is that you you don't need to buy anything extra to get excellent cooling. The BladeMaster fan that comes with it is one of the best you can get for it. Anything that will actually cool better is louder and would only give about a 1C lower temp anyway. You can always pick up a second BladeMaster (not an R4) to run in a push/pull setup. The next step up would be High Speed Yate Loon fans, but the difference isn't worth the additional sound level as far as I'm concerned.

The TIM that comes with it is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX2 or IC Diamond 7.

The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


Thanks! Rep+
I just re did my 212+ to fix the orrientation and did it the exact way you did. Now it is time to find another blademaster.
Didn't know the thermal paste was so good too! I was very close to buying mx-4.


----------



## PapaSmurf

BladeMaster

12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable to allow you to run a pair of BladeMasters off of the same PWM fan header on a motherboard so they stay in sync if you use PWM.

MX-4 is excellent, but not worth the premium price over MX-2. The difference between MX-2, MX-3, MX-4, IC Diamond 7, or any of the other top TIM is about 1C when properly applied. For the most part it has more to do with how one applies the TIM than it does what TIM they use. The problem with Arctic Silver is that it has such a long break in period. It takes 2 weeks for it to properly break in and give optimum results. During that time it requires several periods of the system running for app. 2 hours, then off for 2 hours per day every day for 2 weeks or it never really cures. To top that off it needs to be cleaned off and re-applied every 10 to 12 months. Having to re-apply it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that long drawn out break in process. The other TIMS I mentioned along with the CM TIM that comes with the 212+ have a break in period of less than an hour, with most being only a couple of minutes, and that is with continuous running. THAT is what makes Arctic Silver such a poor TIM.

Back when Arctic Silver was first introduced it was the best that was available, but that was 10 years or more ago. In the past 5 years or so several other TIM's have easily met or exceeded it's performance with much less work involved rendering AS not worth the time or trouble to use anymore.

*EDIT:* 2 BladeMaster's running in Push/Pull compared to a single BladeMaster would probably only be about 1 to 2C difference in temps. Unless you are doing some extreme overclocking or your computer is in a very hot climate it problem isn't enough to worry about. I only do it since I am running the [email protected] SMP client on my systems which means they run at 100% cpu load 24/7/365. If I wasn't doing that I would only be using a single BladeMaster on mine.


----------



## Citra

Thankyou! Very helpful!!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Citra*


Thankyou! Very helpful!!










No problem. I'm going to see if the thread owner can add some of this info to the first post when I get a chance.


----------



## cosworth88

hi everybody!!
do you think the hyper 212+ is enought for a 1055t [email protected] 1.52v??
thank you!


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cosworth88*


hi everybody!!
do you think the hyper 212+ is enought for a 1055t [email protected] 1.52v??
thank you!


with a mild overlcock it would, but at 4ghz, no


----------



## cosworth88

thank you
with the stock cooler my cpu reaches 62 degrees with prime95, how many degrees can i earn in full load with the hyper 212+?


----------



## NguyenAdam

My hyper212+ is finally coming in tomorrow!!


----------



## Melee

Can anyone tell me if G-Skill Ripjaws RAM will fit under a Hyper 212+ w/ 2 fans in Push/Pull?

I already ordered my cooler and fans but now I am concerned about if I will have clearance issues.

I have the Ripjaws X Series RAM with the slanted heatspreaders.

Thanks!


----------



## Blackcurrent

I got my cooler yesterday and I'm very happy. Immediately I added a second fan on it and I'm running 4Ghz at the moment with v1.28V and hitting 72 Celsius MAX on Small FFT Prime 95. Was wondering if this is the kinda temps I should be getting, are my temps ok under these conditions?

- Ambient 27 Celcius (Live in the Tropics, I know it sucks)
- HT OFF
- Thermal Compound: CM ThermalFusion 400


----------



## sweffymo

Upgraded to the 212+ from a CM V8. Got Yate Loon D12SM-12s on it.


----------



## Melee

What is the exact fan that is included with the Hyper 212+ and where is the cheapest place to buy one? I was going to pick one up as a cheap, temporary solution for push/pull but if they're the BladeMasters, then $12 is the cheapest I've seen and I can get 2x nice led fans or something for that price.

Is the Thermal Paste that comes with it Thermalfusion 400 or whatever CM's premier TIM is?

Thanks!


----------



## singlecore2logical

Yea, it's the BladeMaster. Cheaspest is on Amazon for $11.99 w/fs, but processing takes 3-4 days.


----------



## NguyenAdam

Woo! My hyper 212+ came in and I installed it. Getting load temps of only 37c! :O This is amazing for me because the stock cooling gave me load temps of 70c!


----------



## hyujmn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melee;12217508*
> What is the exact fan that is included with the Hyper 212+ and where is the cheapest place to buy one? I was going to pick one up as a cheap, temporary solution for push/pull but if they're the BladeMasters, then $12 is the cheapest I've seen and I can get 2x nice led fans or something for that price.
> 
> Is the Thermal Paste that comes with it Thermalfusion 400 or whatever CM's premier TIM is?
> 
> Thanks!


It's unfortunate because just about a month ago, Wal-Mart carried them online for $7.50 with free shipping. That's where I got mine.

Now they're ~14 bucks there.


----------



## CM96

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam*


Woo! My hyper 212+ came in and I installed it. Getting load temps of only 37c! :O This is amazing for me because the stock cooling gave me load temps of 70c!


I remember when I went from my stock cooler to the 212+.

(This was when I was using my E2180 & was @ 2.66GHz)

Stock:

Idle: ~40Â°C
Load: Got up to 70Â°C before I stopped prime95 due to a burning smell

212+:

Idle: 31Â°C
Load: 44Â°C










Even better is the fact that I always run it at the lowest fan speed I can seem to get (~1250-1300ish RPM) so it's not like it's straining to achieve temps like that.

-----

Anyway I suppose I should show my 212+


----------



## looks

mine, just changed from stock to 212+ today, weird thing is, no matter what changes(thermal compound, heat sink...) I do, idle temp is always 37Â°C, just can't get it lower. cpu : e8400


----------



## NguyenAdam

Worry about your load temps.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam;12225168*
> Worry about your load temps.


This exactly, I can not stress this enough.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Hmm, I need to get in on this thread.. I recently moved, and my rig is down in the basement, which for the time being doesn't really have any heat.... My pc is idling at 21C, could maybe even hit 20C. Not sure what load is, going to be putting it through its paces soon enough (then a pic added so I can join the club







)


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melee;12207594*
> Can anyone tell me if G-Skill Ripjaws RAM will fit under a Hyper 212+ w/ 2 fans in Push/Pull?
> 
> I already ordered my cooler and fans but now I am concerned about if I will have clearance issues.
> 
> I have the Ripjaws X Series RAM with the slanted heatspreaders.
> 
> Thanks!


They should. At the very worst you might need to mount the push fan a tad bit higher up on the heatsink to clear, but I tend to doubt that will be necessary. Shifting the fan up a quarter to half an inch would have minimal effect on it's cooling efficiency.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melee;12217508*
> What is the exact fan that is included with the Hyper 212+ and where is the cheapest place to buy one? I was going to pick one up as a cheap, temporary solution for push/pull but if they're the BladeMasters, then $12 is the cheapest I've seen and I can get 2x nice led fans or something for that price.
> 
> Is the Thermal Paste that comes with it Thermalfusion 400 or whatever CM's premier TIM is?
> 
> Thanks!


Not sure if it's the ThermalFusion 400 or not, but it's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and on par with Arctic Cooling's MX2, MX3, MX4, IC Diamond 7, and anything else you can think of.

If you look a few posts back from your original post you'll see I covered this very information quite thoroughly on more than one occasion.

Be careful getting cheaper fans. The things that makes the BladeMaster's so good is that they move a lot of air, have good static pressure (which is necessary to force the air through the fins of the heatsink), and are fairly quiet compared to other fans that have comparable specs. Cheaper fans will normally be noisier, move less air, or have less static pressure which will cost you cooling performance, higher noise, or both. The only fans that I can recommend other than the BladeMasters are the High Speed Yate Loons, but they tend to be louder. A pair of Medium Speed Yates would be quieter, but the even in a Push/Pull configuration they wouldn't cool as well as the single BladeMaster than comes with it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looks;12224727*
> mine, just changed from stock to 212+ today, weird thing is, no matter what changes(thermal compound, heat sink...) I do, idle temp is always 37°C, just can't get it lower. cpu : e8400


Your cpu's sensors are probably stuck at the low end. Intel doesn't expect them to be that cool at idle so they don't worry about the sensors reading that low. Plus, the only temps that matter are the FULL LOAD temps. Run something that pushes your CPU to 100% load and see if the temps don't go above that 37C mark. If they don't then you have a problem as you won't know if it overheats or not.


----------



## Shooter116

ThermalFusion400 ftw. This paste is seriously slept on!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Thanks for confirming that for me Shooter. I knew they included some of the good stuff, but I couldn't remember just which one it was and my internet has been spotty the last couple of days so I couldn't do a search on it. I'll have to add that to the info I sent to the thread owner to include on the front page.


----------



## onslaught_

hey guys..save me some reading
i want to attach a second fan to my hyper 212 plus for a push/pull config..but i'm not too sure how i should connect the second fan.... will a Y splitter to the CPU 4pin work? 
what's everyone else doing?


----------



## Siegfried262

In your case a 4-pin splitter sounds like just the thing.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16812718001


----------



## PapaSmurf

12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable to allow you to run a pair of BladeMasters off of the same PWM fan header on a motherboard so they stay in sync if you use PWM. $2.49 with free shipping.


----------



## onslaught_

Thanks for confirming fellas 
I was actually thinking about doing that but got hesitant..

Some people suggest not connecting too many fans on the mobo other than the suggest amount of 3pin/4pin connectors









Cheers!

I'll post pictures soon


----------



## hokeyplyr48

how does this compare to the mux120? I have the old TRUE120 and am wondering if there would be an advantage to upgrading.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onslaught_;12234643*
> Thanks for confirming fellas
> I was actually thinking about doing that but got hesitant..
> 
> Some people suggest not connecting too many fans on the mobo other than the suggest amount of 3pin/4pin connectors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> I'll post pictures soon


On older motherboards from 5 years ago then yes, I would recommend 1 fan per fan header. With newer mobo's as long as you don't stick a pair of monster fans that draw 1amp each you'll be fine. Most of the fans like the stock BladeMaster that comes with the 212+, HS Yate Loons, and other comparable fans only draw about .30 t0 .40 amps so even a pair of them will be safe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hokeyplyr48;12234666*
> how does this compare to the mux120? I have the old TRUE120 and am wondering if there would be an advantage to upgrading.


It wouldn't be an upgrade from a TRUE120. In all honesty it's probably not quite as good as a TRUE. I would imagine a 212+ would be about 1 to 4C higher temps using the same fans and TIM than a TRUE120 would be (depending on the cpu and the amount of OC). Please remember that the Hyper 212+ is primarily the best bang for you buck CPU Heatsink Fan combo, not the best period. It does an incredible job for what it is, but it can't compete with a TRUE, Megahalems, the top Mugens, or any of the other units that sell for 2 to 4 times as much as the 212+ does.

As for the MUX120, the 212+ would be a tad bit better. The MUX120 isn't up to the normal ThermalRight Standards when it comes to cooling. It simply doesn't have enough mass and comes with less than stellar fan compared to the 212+.


----------



## NguyenAdam

When is the list going to be updated?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Your best bet is to send a PM to the Club Owner.


----------



## InsightSoul

How well would a single San Ace do on this cooler?


----------



## PapaSmurf

It would depend on which San Ace. Based on how they work on a Megahalems in ehume's fan test probably about 2 to 3 C better than the stock BladeMaster that comes with it. See http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ans-112-a.html for more details. While you can't directly compare the actual temps between the Megahalems and the 212+, the difference should be about the same. The San Ace 9G1212E1011 provided 49.5C @ 44db while the BladeMaster was 52.5C @ 33db which would be a 3C difference, but at the cost of an 11db increase in noise.

The San Ace 9S1212F401 however provided 53.5C @ 30db in the same test which would be 1C higher temp than the BladeMaster. ehume tested several different San Ace's with different results so it would basically come down to if you are willing to accept more fan noise you can get lower temps with the right San Ace or you can get better results from the stock BladeMaster with the wrong San Ace.


----------



## InsightSoul

Thanks Papasmurf that helped me a lot in deciding what to do. +rep

Considering that San Ace 9G1212E1011 can be had for $25 from SVC for only 3C difference I think I might just upgrade the cooler to the Silver Arrow for a 10C+ gain.

Or buy another BM for push/pull config.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It would depend on what you are putting it on, but I seriously doubt a 10C+ gain. 5C is a lot more realistic with everything else the same (same TIM, same fans, same ambient room temp, etc.).


----------



## GreekElite

Hey all i just installed one of these coolers on mine not really seeing any difference in the temperatures on idle but was i supposed to have enough compound on the cooler so u couldnt see anything but the compound on the cooler?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreekElite;12242743*
> Hey all i just installed one of these coolers on mine not really seeing any difference in the temperatures on idle but was i supposed to have enough compound on the cooler so u couldnt see anything but the compound on the cooler?


Idle temps are meaningless. A lot of cpus have sensors that stick and don't show their actual idle temps anyway. The only temps that mean anything are the full load temps.

And as has been stated at least 50 times in this thread you can't install the TIM on the 212+ like you do on a flat based heatsink. The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

Also, sense you didn't post your system specs it's impossible to tell you anything specific sense we have no idea what you are running. You need to click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, then scroll down the left side to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## GreekElite

Thanks For the help with the system link i've done that i'll pull off my cpu cooler and see if ive applied it well or not.


----------



## onslaught_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12237775*
> On older motherboards from 5 years ago then yes, I would recommend 1 fan per fan header. With newer mobo's as long as you don't stick a pair of monster fans that draw 1amp each you'll be fine. Most of the fans like the stock BladeMaster that comes with the 212+, HS Yate Loons, and other comparable fans only draw about .30 t0 .40 amps so even a pair of them will be safe.


thanks papasmurf! +rep


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreekElite;12243253*
> Thanks For the help with the system link i've done that i'll pull off my cpu cooler and see if ive applied it well or not.


With that mobo it won't really matter that much as I'm 99.99% certain you can't OC it anyway. Running the CPU at 100% load would probably be about 15 to 20C over ambient room temp (possibly 25C if you are in the tropics where the ambient temps are quite high).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onslaught_;12243424*
> thanks papasmurf! +rep


No problem.


----------



## onslaught_

Just finished ordering my PWN Y Splitter and 2 Extra Blade Master 120mm's from ncix.com >







Now I wait....

Another question regarding the push/pull configuration...So the hyper will be on PWM...and I plan on on using a second Blade Master on my rear as an exhaust.

I've heard that pushing more air out of the case rather than having more air come in..is better..with that said, should I leave the rear case fan on full blast? Or should PWM (auto) be suffice?

like so..


----------



## PapaSmurf

For every person who states that having more airflow out of the case is better you find just about as many who state that just the opposite is better. From a cooling standpoint it's basically a toss up.

Where you normally see a difference is with dust. If you have more air being forced out the case tends to draw air in through all of the unfiltered cracks and openings in the case resulting in more dust buildup on the inside of the case. If you have more air being forced in then it pushes air out those unfiltered cracks and openings so if you have filters on the intake fans you tend to have less dust buildup inside the case, but you have to clean the filters more often.

My advice would be to try it both ways. See which way gives the best temps and go with that.


----------



## Klinkey

i have one but im having a little trouble install and with the thermal paste... if you would like to inbox me a guide


----------



## NguyenAdam

I responded to your thread already.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klinkey;12258129*
> i have one but im having a little trouble install and with the thermal paste... if you would like to inbox me a guide


That information has been posted at least 50 times in this thread. In fact, it was the last time was only 6 posts prior to yours.

The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## InsightSoul

If you had to reseat your cooler the cracks should already be filled. No need to do that step if you're reseating.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsightSoul;12263138*
> If you had to reseat your cooler the cracks should already be filled. No need to do that step if you're reseating.


I wouldn't say that. If they are having problems with it it's quite possible that the cracks weren't filled fully. When something isn't working the way it should it's normally best to clean things up and start over from scratch just to make sure. It only takes a couple of extra minutes to do so, much less time than it takes to completely remove the heatsink and remount it again if it wasn't.


----------



## LemonMeringueTy

Just got my 212+ so you can add me to the list.

is 35* idle and 60* full load good temps for an i7 950? i had used way too much TIM on my previous heatsink and didnt notice until i removed it to replace with the 212+ so I'm just wondering if maybe I put too much on again


----------



## PapaSmurf

Doesn't sound bad to me, but without knowing the ambient room temps it's impossible to tell for sure. If that is in a normal 70F room then I would say it's fine, but it that is in a colder room then possibly not.

It would also depend on if you are running at stock speeds or overclocked. If that's OC'd then it's excellent.


----------



## LemonMeringueTy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Doesn't sound bad to me, but without knowing the ambient room temps it's impossible to tell for sure. If that is in a normal 70F room then I would say it's fine, but it that is in a colder room then possibly not.

It would also depend on if you are running at stock speeds or overclocked. If that's OC'd then it's excellent.


20C/70F room temp, and thats stock clocks with HT off in a Cooler Master Storm Scout with stock fans. I'm an absolute wreck when it comes to applying TIM and this is my first HDT cooler, would be very pleased if I did it correctly for once.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LemonMeringueTy*


20C/70F room temp, and thats stock clocks with HT off in a Cooler Master Storm Scout with stock fans. I'm an absolute wreck when it comes to applying TIM and this is my first HDT cooler, would be very pleased if I did it correctly for once.


Did you check out and follow the guide on how to apply TIM to a heatpipe direct heatsink I linked to numerous times in this thread?


----------



## SprayN'Pray

Didn't know there was a club for this cooler. I've had it for 6 months now on my sig rig; add me to the list please?









Ambient: 20c
Idle (as reported by BIOS): 23c
Load: 41c


----------



## LemonMeringueTy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Did you check out and follow the guide on how to apply TIM to a heatpipe direct heatsink I linked to numerous times in this thread?


Yes I did, that's how I applied it, i used Shin Etsu paste, but to me I feel like it came out too much at a time, so I MAY have put too much. I didn't add some in the cracks, I just put lines on the 3 silver parts in the middle.

Here's a decent drawing of it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SprayN'Pray*


Didn't know there was a club for this cooler. I've had it for 6 months now on my sig rig; add me to the list please?









Ambient: 20c
Idle (as reported by BIOS): 23c
Load: 41c


There's a club for about everything here on OCN. One just needs to look hard enough to find some of them.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LemonMeringueTy*


Yes I did, that's how I applied it, i used Shin Etsu paste, but to me I feel like it came out too much at a time, so I MAY have put too much. I didn't add some in the cracks, I just put lines on the 3 silver parts in the middle.


That looks about right to me.


----------



## LemonMeringueTy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


That looks about right to me.


so my temps are fine? no need to redo?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LemonMeringueTy*


so my temps are fine? no need to redo?


Unless someone with more experience with an i7-950 like you have comes along and says otherwise I wouldn't.


----------



## GreekElite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LemonMeringueTy;12265127*
> Just got my 212+ so you can add me to the list.
> 
> is 35* idle and 60* full load good temps for an i7 950? i had used way too much TIM on my previous heatsink and didnt notice until i removed it to replace with the 212+ so I'm just wondering if maybe I put too much on again


i have the exact same temps as you idle is 35 for me and full load is 60 degrees Celsius but im using a Core 2 quad Q6600


----------



## PapaSmurf

That's pretty high for a Q6600 unless you are overclocking it or you have a very hot computer room. I have a 212+ on my Q6600 running at 3.4GHz. It's a folding rig so it runs at 100% load 24/y and it runs 55-58C. I have no idea what idle temps on it are though as it never idles. Idle temps are meaningless anyway.


----------



## InsightSoul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LemonMeringueTy;12265475*
> so my temps are fine? no need to redo?


60C under load is fine.


----------



## GreekElite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12266321*
> That's pretty high for a Q6600 unless you are overclocking it or you have a very hot computer room. I have a 212+ on my Q6600 running at 3.4GHz. It's a folding rig so it runs at 100% load 24/y and it runs 55-58C. I have no idea what idle temps on it are though as it never idles. Idle temps are meaningless anyway.


my room is about 23 degrees Celsius and running games and having virtual machines its at 40degress celcius


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreekElite;12267692*
> my room is about 23 degrees Celsius and running games and having virtual machines its at 40degress celcius


That's about the same room temp I have, 21-22C. I still say that's high for a Q6600 at stock speeds.


----------



## looks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NguyenAdam*


Worry about your load temps.


k, so i ran IntelBurnTest to see load temp
landed around 55Â°C, is this good enough?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *looks*


k, so i ran IntelBurnTest to see load temp
landed around 55Â°C, is this good enough?


No way to know for sure based on your post. We need to know what hardware you are using, if it's overclocked, what your ambient room temp is, etc. But with out any specifics it's probably okay, but might not be optimal. You need to click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, then scroll down the left side to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with.


----------



## looks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12275784*
> Know way to know for sure based on your post. We need to know what hardware you are using, if it's overclocked, what your ambient room temp is, etc. But with out any specifics it's probably okay, but might not be optimal. You need to click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, then scroll down the left side to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with.


thanks alot man, tried my best on PC info, room temp is 17°C, guess temp ain't gonna look good when summer arrives.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It could definitely be better. With that small of an OC and a 17C room you should be around 45C or so under full load unless you really had to crank the vcore to get there. My Quads with higher OC's run about that same temp in a 22C room. You might want to make sure that you applied the TIM properly. The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## GreekElite

Papasmurf u da king of this thread so ima post this for u, if i go into my motherboard settings and set my fan control to aggresive will my RPM on my fan turn higher, right now its set on normal.


----------



## looks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12276994*
> It could definitely be better. With that small of an OC and a 17C room you should be around 45C or so under full load unless you really had to crank the vcore to get there. My Quads with higher OC's run about that same temp in a 22C room. You might want to make sure that you applied the TIM properly. The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.
> 
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5
> 
> That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


took 212+ off today, and here's what the surface looks like, guess I've done a pretty bad job of applying the TIM.
















and here is what i did after, using the credit card method
















don't know if different burn test softwares make a difference(can't get IntelBurnTest to work, when I click start, it instantly pops this success box...), but running Prime95, I'm getting temps around 50°C(though if i remove the side panel, the temp drops down to 45°C)

idle temp still 37°C, guess thats the lowest I'm gonna get, weird.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreekElite;12281003*
> Papasmurf u da king of this thread so ima post this for u, if i go into my motherboard settings and set my fan control to aggresive will my RPM on my fan turn higher, right now its set on normal.


I really don't know. I always turn off any fan control options in the bios due to the way I use my computers. Plus, I have no idea about how the bios in that motherboard is configured to work. For whatever reason Intel doesn't spell it out in the manual for it that I can find. But off the top of my head I would think that it would only cause it to speed up at a lower temp than normal would but both would probably ramp up to the same speed at some point. My advice is to try both settings and see what happens.


----------



## InsightSoul

Looks like you're using way too much TIM. Try 0.05cc-0.08cc.


----------



## Atmosphere

This isn't on topic but I'm wondering if anyone could help me, I switched cases today, but when I tried to turn on the PC it just didn't turn on, there's a flicker of blue light from my led fan but then nothing. What could this be?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looks;12284155*
> took 212+ off today, and here's what the surface looks like, guess I've done a pretty bad job of applying the TIM.
> 
> don't know if different burn test softwares make a difference(can't get IntelBurnTest to work, when I click start, it instantly pops this success box...), but running Prime95, I'm getting temps around 50°C(though if i remove the side panel, the temp drops down to 45°C)
> 
> idle temp still 37°C, guess thats the lowest I'm gonna get, weird.


Your first application doesn't look terrible, but it definitely could have been better. I like the look of that second application though. That should work out well.

I don't normally use IntelBurnTest so I don't know what would cause that. If taking the side panel off lowers the cpu temps that much it tells me that the airflow in the case isn't optimized. Make sure that you've routed all of the wires and cables in your case out of the way to minimize any disruptions to the airflow and make sure that all of your case fans are running like they should. You might consider placing a 120mm fan in your unused 5.25" drive bays blowing into the case to increase airflow. You should be able to use zip ties to hold it in place. I've seen that help on a lot of cases.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atmosphere;12285270*
> This isn't on topic but I'm wondering if anyone could help me, I switched cases today, but when I tried to turn on the PC it just didn't turn on, there's a flicker of blue light from my led fan but then nothing. What could this be?


Make sure the 24pin and 4pin (or 8pin) power connectors are fully seated onto the mobo. Try removing the mobo and making sure that you don't have any extra standoffs or anything else metal that could be shorting out. Also try unplugging the switches and LEDs from the mobo and use a screwdriver to short across the power switch pins on the board to see if that will start it.

And you are right. This should NOT have been posted here. You should have started your own thread in the appropriate forum here at OCN.


----------



## piranhamoose

I just got the hyper 212+ and gentle typhoon ap-31 5400 RPM/150 CFM/50.5 DBA, 15.24 mmH20 static pressure, 4-pin connector, dual ball bearings. fan, which will be paired together for my new build as soon as i get my mobo later this week.

has anyone else paired these two with each other?

The ap-31 is not pwm configured. It plugs straight to psu via 4 pin molex with a yellow rpm sensor wire which you can plug into mobo cpu 3 pin. So it will be running 100% 24/7 with no fan controller.

will post results soon


----------



## ap42

I put a CM212+ on my new build with a second blademaster fan & it seems pretty sweet so far.

Idle temp: 18C
After 30mins of Prime95: 38C
Room temp: about 70F/21C

The case is off for now while I wait for a replacement case fan, so I expect temps to go up a bit but not much. I used MX-2 thermal paste.

I'm going to order one of these pwm splitters as well, since I have the 2nd fan plugged into my other (non-cpu) 4-pin connector & it's speed is a little off from the cpu one.

I like it. The only issue I have is that when/if I go to 4 sticks of my ram, I'll need to shift the 2nd fan up about 1/2" on the cooler to be able to clear the top of the ram. Not a big deal.


----------



## candy wrapper

May I ask if the CM Hyper Master 212 + is a lot better than the CM V8 ? Does anyone know how the two compare ?


----------



## PapaSmurf

They are about the same. There might be 1 or 2C difference between the two. It wouldn't be worth replacing either with the other. If you don't have either I would go with the 212+ as it's a much better deal price wise.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looks;12284155*
> (can't get IntelBurnTest to work, when I click start, it instantly pops this success box...)


You have to select how many times you want it to run (under how many times to run box) that might be the problem.
Also it looks like you might be using a bit too much TIM.


----------



## Citra

Can I overclock my 1090t to 4 ghz with the 212+? Ambient is 22 Celcius.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Possibly. No way to know for sure without trying it. Not all 1090t's will hit 4gig stable with even the best Air Cooling. If your 1090t can get to 4gig without needing a lot of vcore you probably can, but there are no guarantees.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12300702*
> Possibly. No way to know for sure without trying it. Not all 1090t's will hit 4gig stable with even the best Air Cooling. If your 1090t can get to 4gig without needing a lot of vcore you probably can, but there are no guarantees.


Thanks. Rep+


----------



## looks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher;12298775*
> You have to select how many times you want it to run (under how many times to run box) that might be the problem.
> Also it looks like you might be using a bit too much TIM.


tryied it, still doesn't work ^^"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12285276*
> Your first application doesn't look terrible, but it definitely could have been better. I like the look of that second application though. That should work out well.
> 
> I don't normally use IntelBurnTest so I don't know what would cause that. If taking the side panel off lowers the cpu temps that much it tells me that the airflow in the case isn't optimized. Make sure that you've routed all of the wires and cables in your case out of the way to minimize any disruptions to the airflow and make sure that all of your case fans are running like they should. You might consider placing a 120mm fan in your unused 5.25" drive bays blowing into the case to increase airflow. You should be able to use zip ties to hold it in place. I've seen that help on a lot of cases.


no way to improve cable management(position of 24 pin on P5QL-E, narrow space between side panel.), so i just took out some of the front panels for now, temp did drop a bit. dunno if a 14" will fit in that hole, and if it does, how to lock it in place.


----------



## PapaSmurf

A 120mm will fit very nicely in three 5.25" drive bays. You should be able to hold them in with Zip Ties.


----------



## JAM3S121

i am trying to install my hyper 212+... i have it all set up but the retention plate screws seem to not line up at all like they need to be moved to the outer most position but how do i do that?

i'm kinda freaking out cause i already applied TIM and cant get the heatsink securely on any help?


----------



## Siegfried262

If you pull up on the screw or spring thingy on the screws you should be able to move them to the appropriate mounting hole. (Three slots for each screw I believe)


----------



## JAM3S121

I was able to move 3 of the 4.

the 4th the bottom part of the spring that connects to the motherboard is extremely tight and won't allow me to push down and move it... the others are extremely lose and i can't move it tried putting it on a table and using force while trying to move it to no avail

any ideas?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Try turning the screw the reverse direction to see if that frees the spring.


----------



## Siegfried262

Just to make sure we're understanding each other correctly. Are you trying to stretch the screws in the mounting bracket to screw into the appropriate position?

Or have you tried moving the screws in the mounting bracket over to whichever segment (see how there's three slots for each one?) is appropriate for your socket. (The manual should elaborate)


----------



## JAM3S121

I got it... my thumbs look purple though right now

anyways im really kinda worried now this is my first time building my pc but i moved the heatsink A LOT on the cpu and doesn't that cause air bubbles and stuff? i made sure to try and not move it but i didn't install it outside of the case so it was kind of a hassle

if my temps arent good should i buy the stuff to clean both and do it again in a few days?

the problem was one of the 4 springs on the bracket was extremely tight and it was really hard to put enough force on it to move the screw into the right position, i got it but now im just afraid of air bubbles on my cpu due to me moving the heatsink and taking it off for a second to get the bracket out


----------



## Siegfried262

Hmm, you might want to clean it off and try again if it moved a ton during install.

You shouldn't have to force it to screw in though, the screws on the mounting bracket should line up with the screws from the retention plate. (Unless I'm mixing up my terminology here)


----------



## JAM3S121

can i clean it off right now with anything in particular?


----------



## Siegfried262

Isopropyl Rubbing alcohol will do the trick if you have any handy.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If the temps are high I would remove it, use some Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the surface of the cpu and heatsink, re-apply the tim, then re-install the heatsink.

DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE RUBBING ALCOHOL OR ANY OTHER CLEANING PRODUCT TO REMOVE THE OLD TIM. It's Isopropyl Alcohol or nothing at all. ANYTHING else you use will more than likely have some form of petroleum by-product which will leave a oily residue that will act as an insulator causing high temps. Rubbing Alcohol will ALWAYS have petroleum by-products and will ALWAYS leave an oily residue. That's what makes it Rubbing Alcohol instead of Isopropyl Alcohol. Anyone who tells you different is wrong and any advice they give you should be treated as suspect from that point on.

Also, on a new build ALWAYS install the cpu, cpu heatsink, memory, vid card, connect the psu and monitor, and power up the system to make sure it posts prior to mounting it in the case for the first time. Otherwise if it doesn't fire up and it's already in the case you have no idea if it's one or more defective components or a problem with it shorting out against the case. Once you know that it will power up and get into the bios you can shut it down, mount it in the case, then proceed.


----------



## Krusher33

I think I forgot to sign up after I got mine. Sign me up please.


----------



## Siegfried262

Ah, that's what I meant when I said rubbing alcohol but I should have been clearer, thanks for the correction.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That looks like a nice setup. Those Beta EVO's are nice budget cases that go along perfectly with the Hyper 212+.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Siegfried262*


Ah, that's what I meant when I said rubbing alcohol but I should have been clearer, thanks for the correction.










Then please go back and change your previous post to make sure no one makes the mistake and uses it.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12313125*
> That looks like a nice setup. Those Beta EVO's are nice budget cases that go along perfectly with the Hyper 212+.


Yes but I was quite said that I had paid for an extra fan for the panel. But I'm quite happy with the case and cooler.

And excuse the mess of wires behind the drives. Will be adding another drive soon and didn't want to manage the cables just yet.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12313024*
> If the temps are high I would remove it, use some Isopropyl Alcohol to clean the surface of the cpu and heatsink, re-apply the tim, then re-install the heatsink.
> 
> DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE RUBBING ALCOHOL OR ANY OTHER CLEANING PRODUCT TO REMOVE THE OLD TIM. It's Isopropyl Alcohol or nothing at all. ANYTHING else you use will more than likely have some form of petroleum by-product which will leave a oily residue that will act as an insulator causing high temps. Rubbing Alcohol will ALWAYS have petroleum by-products and will ALWAYS leave an oily residue. That's what makes it Rubbing Alcohol instead of Isopropyl Alcohol. Anyone who tells you different is wrong and any advice they give you should be treated as suspect from that point on.
> 
> Also, on a new build ALWAYS install the cpu, cpu heatsink, memory, vid card, connect the psu and monitor, and power up the system to make sure it posts prior to mounting it in the case for the first time. Otherwise if it doesn't fire up and it's already in the case you have no idea if it's one or more defective components or a problem with it shorting out against the case. Once you know that it will power up and get into the bios you can shut it down, mount it in the case, then proceed.


So you mean I shouldn't use an alcohol prep pad?


----------



## PapaSmurf

You would need to look at the ingredients list to see if there is any petroleum by-products listed. Some do and some don't. It's commonly used as a lubricant so the pad glides over the surface of the skin easier and prevent chafing, the same reason it's used in Rubbing Alcohol.

And that's the reason why I always recommend ONLY Isoproplyl Alcohol as it will NEVER include any of those lubricants.


----------



## JAM3S121

the ambient temp in my room right now i would guess is about 63-67 degrees F

when i fiinish everything what would be a good range of temp for load in bios?


----------



## 222Panther222

It cost me 25 bucks good performance/price ratio but the stock fan was unbalanced so i've put a noctua.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12313345*
> You would need to look at the ingredients list to see if there is any petroleum by-products listed. Some do and some don't. It's commonly used as a lubricant so the pad glides over the surface of the skin easier and prevent chafing, the same reason it's used in Rubbing Alcohol.
> 
> And that's the reason why I always recommend ONLY Isoproplyl Alcohol as it will NEVER include any of those lubricants.


It says 70% Isoprypl alcohol and purified water. I should be fine right?


----------



## compudaze

Here's mine:

I have another CM Blade Master 120 on order for push/pull. PWM FTW!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121;12313437*
> the ambient temp in my room right now i would guess is about 63-67 degrees F
> 
> when i fiinish everything what would be a good range of temp for load in bios?


Not sure on a 950 like that, especially in the bios since speedstep is involved at that point. Hopefully someone with more experience with an i7 9xx series cpu will chime in.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *222Panther222;12313447*
> It cost me 25 bucks good performance/price ratio but the stock fan was unbalanced so i've put a noctua, but ->


That's unusual. You should contact CoolerMaster about that to have them send you a replacement fan. Normally those are excellent fans. I've never run across one that was unbalanced, but no matter how good your QC is there will always be a few that slip through.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra;12313460*
> It says 70% Isoprypl alcohol and purified water. I should be fine right?


That should be fine then.


----------



## QuackPot

I have a 2500k and I'm currently getting 30C idle and 40C load. Would it be worth getting this fan for better cooling and quieter ambient noise?

Plus, what is the best way to mount this? Vertically or horizontally? Also, if I attached another fan to the cooler, how do I get it to work? Is it a molex connection or what?


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra;12313460*
> It says 70% Isoprypl alcohol and purified water. I should be fine right?


You should be fine. I use it all the time because that's what I have.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12323576*
> I have a 2500k and I'm currently getting 30C idle and 40C load. Would it be worth getting this fan for better cooling and quieter ambient noise?
> 
> Plus, what is the best way to mount this? Vertically or horizontally? Also, if I attached another fan to the cooler, how do I get it to work? Is it a molex connection or what?


The CM212+ is the best bang for you buck. If anyone wanted to upgrade their stock cooler to something "better" at a budget, then the CM212+ would be it. Is your setup overclocked?

I say mounting vertically is the best way. If you plan on attaching another fan, most likely it will use the standard fan cable connection; allowing you to connect to the motherboard's fan ports. Plus, most fans also include a molex adapter.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12323576*
> I have a 2500k and I'm currently getting 30C idle and 40C load. Would it be worth getting this fan for better cooling and quieter ambient noise?


Which fan are you referring to? What heatsink are you using to get the temps you are getting now?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12323576*
> Plus, what is the best way to mount this? Vertically or horizontally?


Normally it's best to mount it so it draws air in from the front and pushes it out the back. See the post two before yours for a picture of the way it should be positioned.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12323576*
> Also, if I attached another fan to the cooler, how do I get it to work? Is it a molex connection or what?


It would depend on the other fan and your motherboard. Normally one would get another CM BladeMaster to match the one that came with the 212+ and use the included hardware to attach it to the heatsink then plug it into one of the other fan headers on the motherboard. Otherwise one can pickup a PWM Y-Splitter to connect both fans to the same PWM fan header on the mobo to allow the bios to control the fan speeds of both and keep them in sync.

http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12bks.html

http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12.html

You need to click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, then scroll down the left side to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with.


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raiden911;12323729*
> You should be fine. I use it all the time because that's what I have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The CM212+ is the best bang for you buck. If anyone wanted to upgrade their stock cooler to something "better" at a budget, then the CM212+ would be it. Is your setup overclocked?
> 
> I say mounting vertically is the best way. If you plan on attaching another fan, most likely it will use the standard fan cable connection; allowing you to connect to the motherboard's fan ports. Plus, most fans also include a molex adapter.


It isn't overclocked yet. But it was for cooler and quieter performance more than anything else. I was gonna get a 212 when I get my mobo replaced in April. Then I could attach a new HSF. But if I got a new 140mm fan for the front of my Cooler Master 690II case, could I use the current 120mm fan on the HSF as a secondary fan?


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12324022*
> It isn't overclocked yet. But it was for cooler and quieter performance more than anything else. I was gonna get a 212 when I get my mobo replaced in April. Then I could attach a new HSF. But if I got a new 140mm fan for the front of my Cooler Master 690II case, could I use the current 120mm fan on the HSF as a secondary fan?


Yep, you could use that 120mm fan on the HSF in a push/pull config.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12324022*
> It isn't overclocked yet. But it was for cooler and quieter performance more than anything else. I was gonna get a 212 when I get my mobo replaced in April. Then I could attach a new HSF. But if I got a new 140mm fan for the front of my Cooler Master 690II case, could I use the current 120mm fan on the HSF as a secondary fan?


Do NOT get a 212. That is old, outdated, and performs poorly compared to the 212+.

And no, you don't want to use that fan on the 212+ as it isn't even close to the same performance level as the BladeMaster that comes with it. You need to install identical performing fans to run a Push/Pull configuration or it isn't worth doing. Anyone who tells you otherwise is wrong.

What happens is if the pull fan is less powerful than the push fan it will restrict the airflow causing temps to rise and the fans to be noisier than they should be. If the pull fan is more powerful than the push fan it defeats the purpose of having two fans and temps will go up since pulling air through a heatsink is less efficient than pushing it. Unless both fans are essentially equal you are better off using the more powerful of the two fans by itself as a push fan. That will give you the same temps as a mismatched pair with less noise and less power being consumed.


----------



## [FDG]Explosion

Considering buying the 212+ to upgrade from my BT (kind of dated







) what kind of TIM does it come with? do I need to buy some fresh MX2? and what kind of fans would you guys recommend. another one of whats on it?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12324022*
> It isn't overclocked yet. But it was for cooler and quieter performance more than anything else. I was gonna get a 212 when I get my mobo replaced in April. Then I could attach a new HSF. But if I got a new 140mm fan for the front of my Cooler Master 690II case, could I use the current 120mm fan on the HSF as a secondary fan?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[FDG]Explosion;12324492*
> Considering buying the 212+ to upgrade from my BT (kind of dated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) what kind of TIM does it come with? do I need to buy some fresh MX2? and what kind of fans would you guys recommend. another one of whats on it?


I used OCZ Freeze and the Blademaster that came with it. It's cool and quiet.


----------



## straha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[FDG]Explosion;12324492*
> Considering buying the 212+ to upgrade from my BT (kind of dated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) what kind of TIM does it come with? do I need to buy some fresh MX2? and what kind of fans would you guys recommend. another one of whats on it?


It looks like it is Thermal Fusion 400 which by most accounts is superior to AS5, and right up there with the best of whats out there, and would work at least as well as the MX2, so I would just use what comes with it.

The fan that comes with it is the blade master which is a really good fan, so if you want to go push/pull, I would get another one of them. Using non matching fans can in many cases defeat the whole purpose of push/pull and actually be worse than a single fan in push configuration.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[FDG]Explosion;12324492*
> Considering buying the 212+ to upgrade from my BT (kind of dated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) what kind of TIM does it come with? do I need to buy some fresh MX2? and what kind of fans would you guys recommend. another one of whats on it?


*What makes the Hyper 212+ so desirable?*
One of the best things about the 212+ (aside from the price) is that you you don't need to buy anything extra to get excellent cooling. The BladeMaster fan that comes with it is one of the best you can get for it. Anything that will actually cool better is louder and would only give about a 1C lower temp anyway. You can always pick up a second BladeMaster (not an R4) to run in a push/pull setup. The next step up would be High Speed Yate Loon fans, but the difference isn't worth the additional sound level as far as I'm concerned. A pair of the Medium Speed Yate Loon fans would be quieter, but even in a Push/Pull configuration wouldn't be able to provide as much cooling capacity as the single BladeMaster that comes with the 212+. The regular R4's from Coolermaster don't have as much static pressure and are louder so they aren't as good for this as the stock BladeMaster's or even the High Speed Yate's are, although they would be about as loud.

A pair of BladeMaster's running in Push/Pull compared to a single BladeMaster would probably only be about 1 to 2C difference in temps. Unless you are doing some extreme overclocking or your computer is in a very hot climate it probably isn't enough to worry about. I only do it since I am running the [email protected] SMP client on my systems
which means they run at 100% cpu load 24/7/365. If I wasn't doing that I would only be using a single BladeMaster
on mine.

*What fan comes with the Hyper 212+?*
This is the actual BladeMaster fan that comes with the 212+. There are other places that carry it though.

*What if my motherboard doesn't have enough PWM fan headers to run a pair of fans in PWM mode?*
This is a 12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable to allow you to run a pair of BladeMasters off of the same PWM fan header on a motherboard so they stay in sync if you use PWM. Even if your mobo does have enough headers, this is still a great way to make sure that they work together in an optimal fashion.

*Do I need to buy a different Thermal Interface Material (TIM)?*
The ThermalFusion400 TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 or IC Diamond 7. The difference between MX-2, MX-3, MX-4, IC Diamond 7, or any of the other top TIM is about 1C when properly applied. For the most part it has more to do with how one applies the TIM than it does what TIM they use. The problem with Arctic Silver is that it has such a long break in period. It takes 2 weeks for it to properly break in and give optimum results. During that time it requires several periods of the system running for app. 2 hours, then off for 2 hours per day every day for 2 weeks or it never really cures. To top that off it needs to be cleaned off and re-applied every 10 to 12 months. Having to re-apply it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that long drawn out break in process. The other TIMS I mentioned along with the CM TIM that comes with the 212+ have a break in period of less than an hour, with most being only a couple of minutes, and that is with continuous running. THAT is what makes Arctic Silver such a poor TIM. Back when Arctic Silver was first introduced it was the best that was available, but that was 10 years or more ago. In the past 5 years or so several other TIM's have easily met or exceeded it's performance with much less work involved rendering AS not worth the time or trouble to use anymore.

*How should I apply the TIM?*
The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.

*What about side panel fans with a Hyper 212+?*
The chances of being able to mount a fan in the side panel of your case with a Hyper 212+ is somewhere between slim and none. The good news is you don't really need one. At best ll that side panel fan will do if you can mount it is bounce air off of the top of the heatsink (and the sides of the fan housings) which won't have any positive affect on your cpu temps. At the worst the airflow from that side panel fan will disrupt the natural airflow in the case causing the cpu temps to rise. In some cases (puns intended) a fan in the lower side panel position blowing on the graphics cards might help cool them, but that isn't a guarantee. Most of the time all the side panel fans do is make your computer louder. You are normally better off just leaving the fans out of the side panel openings (if they exist) and allow the natural airflow to draw in cool air or expel hot air as needed. It can be worth the time to test it out though if you have a fan to mount there, but I wouldn't go out and buy one just to test with though.


----------



## DB006

Count me in


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12323778*
> Which fan are you referring to? What heatsink are you using to get the temps you are getting now?


I was talking about the standard Intel heatsink.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12324985*
> I was talking about the standard Intel heatsink.


Definitely worth getting then. You should see a significant increase in cooling efficiency as well as less noise.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DB006*


Count me in




























What about your full load temps? Those are the only temps that matter.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Can someone tell me what is the name of the stock fan that comes with the cooler, so I can go pick up another one?


----------



## DB006

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


What about your full load temps? Those are the only temps that matter.


Not got a pic but temps don't go over 72Âºc running Prime95 @4.5ghz - small fft's overnight (8hrs)


----------



## YangerD

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*


Can someone tell me what is the name of the stock fan that comes with the cooler, so I can go pick up another one?


I believe it is called the Blade Master or something along those lines.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It's the BladeMaster as has been stated at least a dozen times in the last 20-30 posts.

http://www.svc.com/r4-bmbs-20pk-r0.html

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/prod...roduct_id=2945

The thread owner really needs to get back to work and add the information to the first post so we don't have to keep repeating it every 4th post or so. It's already compiled and ready to insert into the first post which would only take about 60 seconds at the most if they would get off of their lay butt and do it.


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

im in on this guys, and ill get some pics, u know that guy in the comments ofr youtube vids that got 19 degrees on their i7 860 wit a 212 plus? dats me








i just spread a really nice thing layer of stock TIM on the CPU then filled in the cracks on the 212+, but now i ran out of TIM =[ was benching and testing my 4.1GHz overclock and had to reapply sometimes to check for damage (i did it once when i first finished the build), and to check part number, different Heatsink ... ect... the 212+ performed the best, but probably cuz its the best cooler i have =] and it was during the summer that i achived the overclock, when i go overkill on the A/C









MORE PICTURES AS SOON AS IM DONE SOME OF MY HMWK =)

edit" btw im using some El cheapo OEM TIM right now, massive 150g tube of "silicon based" (<- yuck!) TIM so my temps are not as good as they should be, ill try opening a windows to let some Canadian winter air in =]


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:



Originally Posted by *YangerD*


I believe it is called the Blade Master or something along those lines.


Ok thanks, I knew it had been mentioned didnt feel like searching though








Rep+

Maybe you could take over this thread and add the info to the first page smurf, you seem to be the local kommandant.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pentium4 531 overclocker*


im in on this guys, and ill get some pics, u know that guy in the comments ofr youtube vids that got 19 degrees on their i7 860 wit a 212 plus? dats me










What were the ambient room temps when you supposedly achieved 19C temps on an i7 860? I have a very difficult time believing it's possible unless the room was about 10C (50F).


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Sign me up


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

Moar Pictures









First and second is my Temps (on bad TIM)
third pic is my El Cheapo TIM
4th and 5th is the pictures that you guys probably more interested in

In my sig is a link to a valid 4.1GHz i7 860 (guess which cooler i used)
and just for lolz im gunna get rid of "fueled by sapphire" and put the CM one there:yessir:


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12325284*
> What were the ambient room temps when you supposedly achieved 19C temps on an i7 860? I have a very difficult time believing it's possible unless the room was about 10C (50F).


dude it was in an air conditioned Canadian house, us canadians hate the heat XD we make it nice and cold in our houses during the summer XD. and i dont remember room temps that day, but CPU was 19 degrees (lowest) it would occasionally pop to 20 and 21 but the it drops to 19 again.. but then again, idle temps are not to be trusted since they are increadably inaccurate


----------



## tsm106

I'm totally sold on this heatsink. I did a quick writeup on my htpc/file server's move to the 212+. I'm using it w/o a fan, instead using the fan off the rad to exhaust hot air. It seems to work fine so far.


----------



## QuackPot

If anyone has a CM 690 II case, how much space is there on the back plate for the screws to hold the back brace on?


----------



## InsightSoul

I installed a dual fan push and pull config and saw no change in idle or load temps. Fans are installed correctly and working correctly.

What's going on?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsightSoul;12343970*
> I installed a dual fan push and pull config and saw no change in idle or load temps. Fans are installed correctly and working correctly.
> 
> What's going on?


Could be any number of things. Without more details it's impossible for us to tell for sure though.

What fans are you using?

Are you running them off of the PWM controller of the motherboard or do you have them configured to run at full speed? If the former then the PWM could be slowing both fans down so it would give the same temps as it did with a single fan. This is more likely if you are running at stock speeds.

What direction is the heatsink oriented? Is it pushing the air out the back or the top?

What are your ambient temps? Are the room temps when you tested with the Push/Pull exactly the same as when you tested with only the one fan?

What other fans do you have in the case and how are they oriented?

Most people only see about a 1 or 2C difference anyway. There's no guarantee that a push/pull setup will actually lower temps.


----------



## InsightSoul

Hmm. . . yea lots of factors. I'm using a PWM Y splitter (Gelid one, really nice) and fans are at full speed for the test.

Using 2 blademasters.

It could be ambient temp changes since I didn't control for that. Forgot to do temp test before installing the second fan.

I got to say though 2 Blade Master fans running at full speed are loud and are very noticeable compared to just 1.

I'm not going to worry about it anymore especially since it's really hard to see a 1 or 2 degree drop.

On the other hand dropping 50Mhz and the corresponding Vcore got me 5ºC.


----------



## PapaSmurf

For the part unless one is really pushing their OC or running their system at 100% cpu load 24/7/365 like I do running the Folding @ Home SMP Client a Push/Pull setup really doesn't warrant the additional cost and noise.

You might want to try running the fans with PWM enabled to see how that works. It should slow the fans down when you are surfing the web, doing e-mail, word processing, watching videos, etc., then ramp up when you do something more cpu intensive like gaming or benching. You might find that works out quite well for you.


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

Is there a cheap alternative substance i can use for TIM? i mean.. 5 bucks for like 10 applications seams a bit much... or is that my only option? cuz im gunna buy some Arctic silver Matrix or some Arctic Silver 5


----------



## PapaSmurf

The stuff that comes with the 212+ is excellent. It's better than ANYTHING Arctic Silver makes. Just use it instead. If you run out I recommend Arctic Cooling MX-2 or MX-3. Much better than any of the Arctic Silver crap and much less expensive. MX-2 is normally the most affordable of the better quality TIM's so that would probably be your best alternative. A regular sized 4gram package of MX-2 should run you about $7 or so and contains at least 10 times the amount of TIM as the original TIM that shipped with it.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Anyone know of any Hyper 212+'s for sale? Figured I'd check around first before I order one up.

How does the size of the 212+ compare to an AF7? look about the same to me..


----------



## yoshi245

You can get a 212+ for just about any retailer or e-tailer for around or less than $30. As for performance, should do better since AF7 is a 92mm fan/design so it cools less, 212+ is 120mm and has the option to mount a second 120mm fan increasing it's cooling performance (for $30, that's pretty good, that's why it's king of price to performance).


----------



## NguyenAdam

Sorry PapaSmurf. I had to hold out on the testing for the fans. I gave one away to my cousin so I won't be able to test it. I'm ordering a case from a user on here and he is including fans. I will have 3 extra yates to use so I'll be able to test it no problem then.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie;12381174*
> Anyone know of any Hyper 212+'s for sale? Figured I'd check around first before I order one up.
> 
> How does the size of the 212+ compare to an AF7? look about the same to me..


The 212+ is a bit taller and wider than the AF7, but they are about the same depth. As far as performance is concerned the 212+ in it's stock form is almost as much better than the AF7 than the AF7 is better than a stock heatsink with Quad Core cpus. Maybe 50% on a dual core which the AF7's can handle better.


----------



## piranhamoose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piranhamoose;12294780*
> I just got the hyper 212+ and gentle typhoon ap-31 5400 RPM/150 CFM/50.5 DBA, 15.24 mmH20 static pressure, 4-pin connector, dual ball bearings. fan, which will be paired together for my new build as soon as i get my mobo later this week.
> 
> has anyone else paired these two with each other?
> 
> The ap-31 is not pwm configured. It plugs straight to psu via 4 pin molex with a yellow rpm sensor wire which you can plug into mobo cpu 3 pin. So it will be running 100% 24/7 with no fan controller.
> 
> will post results soon


I finally finished my upgrade build







I took some pics of ambient temp and cpu core temp on the Scythe GT AP-31 5400rpm 120mm fan mounted on the CM Hyper 212+









The AP-31 GT is a bit noisy.... sounds like a stove vent in the kitchen or a bathroom vent fan...... but DAMN, it moves air like Sam Kinisons mouth!

Everything is stock right now, so these temps reflect stock configurations. Will update again after OC.


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie;12381174*
> Anyone know of any Hyper 212+'s for sale? Figured I'd check around first before I order one up.
> 
> How does the size of the 212+ compare to an AF7? look about the same to me..


microcenter has it on sale for $24
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0315397


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;12387672*
> microcenter has it on sale for $24
> http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0315397


Awesome! great find! And at my store they have some openbox for $18..

I may have to go today and pick one up! As for the TIM, you all agree the paste that comes with it is much better then arctic silver 5? All I have at home is some Antec crap.. and I was about to lap my AF7 and q9550 so I'll need some new TIM anyway...

4.0ghz here I come!


----------



## PapaSmurf

As as been stated about 50 times or more in the thread, the TIM that ships with the 212+ is as good if not better than most of the other TIM available. And just about any TIM is better than Arctic Silver.

But if you get an open box you might not be getting the good ThermalFusion400 TIM that is supposed to ship with a 212+. It should be a small tube about 1.25 to 1.5" long with a purple label that says CoolerMaster. It doesn't say ThermalFusion400 on it though. Be sure to check the box to see if that is included. If not, I recommend getting some Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 while you are at MicroCenter.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Thank you Papa for your assistance once again..

Picked one up after work:yessir: NEW.. didnt want to mess with the open box.

2 guys at Microcenter tried to talk me into the n520.. which looks cool but I add a hunch it didnt perform as well... plus the bin for the n520's was twice as full as the 212+.. pretty obvious which product is better


----------



## PapaSmurf

The N520 uses 92mm fans with about half the airflow of the 120mm fan on the 212+. It's smaller and has a flat base instead of a heatpipe direct contact. It's an okay heatsink but it isn't in the same class as the 212+ when it comes to cooling efficiency. You made the correct choice.


----------



## P_dog89gt

Add me. Still putting it all together, and I know the pic is crappy but here it is.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Where's the 212 +?


----------



## Extraordinary

Guys,

I have a Antec P180 with 2 old stock fans running and the hyper 212 with the original fan.

My case is open, and I overclocked my i2500k to 4.5g, and running prime95 for 7 hours and IBT 20 runs at high, my max load temp is 60 64 62 63; on idle, it's about 26 to 30 degrees. Ambient temp is about 60 degree here in southern CA.

Is this good temps?

Please also note that I just squeeze a little bit to the center of the heatsink, and appply it to the cpu, if I use the correct method, would it help my temp even more?

Thanks


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Anyone for or against lapping a cpu when using this cooler? I was going to lap mine to squeak out a few temps with my af7, but not sure if it will have as big of impact with this cooler.

I lapped an E6750 with my af7 and shaved off 5-7 degrees.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Depends on the cpu. If the surface of it is bad enough it could very well help. It could very well have as much of, if not more of an impact with this cooler than it would with an AF7.

I wouldn't recommend lapping the heatsink base though. I've seen more than one person lap right through one of the heatpipes rendering the heatsink useless.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

I figured since I have to take my board out, I might as well lap the CPU while I have the chance.. I already have the sandpaper..

I agree with the heatsink, I've been reading and it looks like while some people have been successful at lapping a 212, some have also sanded TOO much.. I will not be doing that.

I'll post back with my results, and maybe some pics.

Papa.. what are your approx. load temps with your OC?


----------



## PapaSmurf

60C in a 70-72F room under full load on my Q9550 @ 4.0GHz with a pair of High Speed Yate Loons in Push/Pull.

55C in the same 70-72F room under full load on my Q6600 @ 3.4GHz (1.45vcore) with a pair of BladeMasters in Push/Pull.

While you have the mobo out you might want to consider cutting a cpu backplate access hole in the mobo tray of your case if you have access to a dremel or sabre saw. Makes it a lot easier to mount heatsinks like this in the future as you won't need to remove the mobo to get access to the backplate.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Yes I'd love to that.. funny you mention a dremel.. back when I got my case and needed to cut some openings for wires I would have KILLED for a dremel.. instead I had to just drill perforations.. then use snips and cut my way through the metal.. sucked..

I'll only cut holes if I have a dremel.. so this time around I may have to pass on it.. but if I get a dremel I'll go back and trim up the holes I cut, and add another one behind the CPU.. perhaps my pals in the MI OC club have one I could borrow.

and if you wondering, I did put some protective foam over the sharp edges of the holes I cut


----------



## PapaSmurf

Sounds like a plan to me. If you lived closer to me I would lend you mine for a day or two.


----------



## Zonet

Can anyone help me out with my question?
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...l#post12411286

Thanks!


----------



## OptimusCaik

i was gonna get one but apparently n520's are what cooler master's really selling.. they ran out of 212's at compusa. Got it for $20 2 days ago and installing it was a breeze! besides, dual 120mm's would be huge in my case.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Why didn't you just ask here to begin with? The 212+ is as much as 8-10C better than the old, outdated 212. You do NOT want to get a 212.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OptimusCaik*


i was gonna get one but apparently n520's are what cooler master's really selling.. they ran out of 212's at compusa. Got it for $20 2 days ago and installing it was a breeze! besides, dual 120mm's would be huge in my case.


The N520's are for running at stock speed. It isn't in the same class as a 212+. The only reason some places are pushing it is they have so many of them in stock as they aren't that good of a unit. People who know go for the 212+ as it is a MUCH better unit.


----------



## tsm106

212+ is 28 bucks shipped at Amazon everyday. If you add it to your cart, and look at it everyday it will be added to your daily deals list and save 3-4 bucks. But anyways, 28 bucks is cheap as it is.


----------



## damric

I'm planning on running mine with two high speed R4's.

Should I put an extra shroud between the intake fan and the heat sink?

I see everyone's picture has the heat sink set up vertically to exhaust to the rear.

I set mine up horizontally to exhaust through my top 200mm case fan. Temps look good. See any disadvantage to mounting this way?


----------



## Kevlo

Im almost Positive that i signed up for this club, put me in though


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *damric*


I'm planning on running mine with two high speed R4's.

Should I put an extra shroud between the intake fan and the heat sink?

I see everyone's picture has the heat sink set up vertically to exhaust to the rear.

I set mine up horizontally to exhaust through my top 200mm case fan. Temps look good. See any disadvantage to mounting this way?


Normally out the back is better, but the difference is typically only 1 or 2C so experiment to see what works for you.

A pair of R4's will more than likely yield higher temps than the BladeMaster fan that comes with the 212+ and be noisier doing it. I recommend sticking with the Blademaster. If you want to do a dual fan push/pull get a second BladeMaster. The Blademaster easily outperforms the R4's and is slightly quieter.

A shroud shouldn't be necessary, but feel free to try it and report back with your results.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kevlo*


Im almost Positive that i signed up for this club, put me in though


You technically joined on 09/02/2010 but were never added to the list. The new club owner was only active for a couple of days before abandoning it like the last one did so there isn't anyone to update the list. Consider yourself in the club and feel free to put the sig link in your sig.


----------



## nalc

Another happy Hyper 212+ owner here. Strapped a San Ace H101 on mine, and a second H101 as a rear exhaust about an inch behind it. Fans running at 6v, and I am at 46C full load on my stock clocked 2500k. Got plenty of headroom for overclocking. Hyper 212+ is a great cooler.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nalc*


Another happy Hyper 212+ owner here. Strapped a San Ace H101 on mine, and a second H101 as a rear exhaust about an inch behind it. Fans running at 6v, and I am at 46C full load on my stock clocked 2500k. Got plenty of headroom for overclocking. Hyper 212+ is a great cooler.


Sure is.

You should click on the *User CP* at the top of this page, then scroll down the left side to the *Add System* link and enter in your system specs in as much detail as possible. By that I mean 2 x 2gig G.Skil PC2-8500 CL5 ram instead of 4 gig ram, etc. That way we have some idea of what we are dealing with. That will make it easier when (if) you ask questions in the future.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Add me in as well please... Even though my 212+ is still in the box, it is scheduled for install tonight

Thanks for those temps Papa.. I just needed a few numbers to go by.. Currently I havent been able to run prime for long because my temps are mid 70s and up, but heaving gaming, rendering and file compression only get the cpus up to about 67.. 80-100 load.. but things appear stable.. wont know until the cooler goes in and I can run prime for more then 15 mins.

then I'll see you over in the ud3 thread for assistance with memory OC


----------



## Durdle Class A

Whats are some good fans for push/pull. Gentle Typhoon AP-15s? Would that work/be loud/be better than Blademasters


----------



## onslaught_

I just added my second blade master on my hyper+..i thought it was already massive..to begin with...but this thing just got bigger lol!

I noticed I didn't align the second fan exactly with the other one..but that probably won't matter too much since they're both pushing/pulling in the same direction...and the clips are a pain to take off









I didn't notice any changes in my idle temps (which I didnt expect), what I'll probably notice is the temps during load. I'm using the Q-fan to control the fans, they're noticeably loud when it's is disabled and are going at full blast









I'll probably start overclocking sometime next week after I give my PC a full trial run with no issues







soo much to read..ahha hard to grasp for an OC'in-newbie XP


----------



## yoshi245

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle Class A;12418593*
> Whats are some good fans for push/pull. Gentle Typhoon AP-15s? Would that work/be loud/be better than Blademasters


Would probably work around or near the same level, has the obvious balance of static pressure and silence, but lacks CFM. Though for a radiator/heatsink Static Pressure takes precedence over CFM, so the GT AP-15's imo > Blademasters - obviously the GT's are quieter too.

It really depends on what you want and where you plan to put it.


----------



## Horsemama1956

Got one at Canada computers last weekend for 24.99. Running it with the stock fan and an extra cooler master case fan from my old elite 350 for pull. Going to replace both fans in a month or so when I get an x6.

The installation is a pain in the ass, especially since I had to do it 4 times. Initial install, had 2 Biostar ta870+ motherboards with overheating NB, and then reassembly on my new Asus. Atleast I can do it 5 minutes now.

Edit - Ah, so the 212+ comes with a blade master, so i guess I'll just buy another one of those.


----------



## onslaught_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horsemama1956;12420040*
> Got one at Canada computers last weekend for 24.99. Running it with the stock fan and an extra cooler master case fan from my old elite 350 for pull. Going to replace both fans in a month or so when I get an x6.
> 
> The installation is a pain in the ass, especially since I had to do it 4 times. Initial install, had 2 Biostar ta870+ motherboards with overheating NB, and then reassembly on my new Asus. Atleast I can do it 5 minutes now.
> 
> Edit - Ah, so the 212+ comes with a blade master, so i guess I'll just buy another one of those.


got any special techniques or tips you do when you remove the fan off the fins?
seems like i'd have to take my mobo off my case to remove the fans if i ever need to..


----------



## Krusher33

Just pull on tabs on one side and go from there.


----------



## listen to remix

Does anyone have a 12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable they could send me? I'll pay for shipping =D


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durdle Class A*


Whats are some good fans for push/pull. Gentle Typhoon AP-15s? Would that work/be loud/be better than Blademasters


Just get a second BladeMaster fan to go with the one that came with it. That will provide better cooling that the AP-15's. In fact, the BladeMaster that comes with the 212+ by itself will cool better than a pair of AP-15's in a Push/Pull configuration.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *listen to remix*


Does anyone have a 12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable they could send me? I'll pay for shipping =D


Where are you located? Asking for a freebie (called cyber begging) is against the TOS of OCN. SVC has two different ones. One sleeved for $2.99 shipped and one un-sleeved for $2.49 shipped.


----------



## advion

I've been using the stock Intel HSF on my Q9550 since it came out and I finally decided screw it I'm going to spoil it and get a decent HSF for it. I don't ever plan on really pushing this Q9550 so I might try to get 3.2ish Ghz and then call it a day.

Just ordered a 212+ because it looks to do a pretty damn decent job and it's pretty cheap. Going to use one fan for now until I get an i7 in a couple months or maybe Ivy Bridge. Should be here Saturday, I look forward to tearing this computer apart to install it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

You won't regret it. The difference in what you can run that Q9550 with a 212+ and the stock cooler is like night and day. There is a very good chance that you could run that Q9550 @ 4.0GHz with that board, ram, and the 212+ and very little voltage increase. You have an excellent combo there that can really fly with the right settings.


----------



## advion

We'll see how it goes and how un-lazy I can become. I just don't have the patience to sit and fiddle with these things like I used to.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you have questions about it post in the EP45-UD3 thread (see my sig for link). It normally doesn't take a lot of tweaking or fiddling to get to 3.8 to 4.0 on that board and cpu.


----------



## slimpsy

I've been using the 212+ for over a year now and it has been the best air cooler I've ever used. Running my i7 920 at 3.7 @ 1.24v for a year with load temps never reaching much higher than 65c in a push/pull setup on full stress load. Now that I switched to a HAF-X tower they are even better, averaging about 61 at full load prime95 and average 38c idle.

Here's a pic of my haf-x with the 212+, hard to see but you can see her in there


----------



## oedstlych

I've had my Hyper 212 Plus also for about a year. Best value cooler I've ever owned.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If you have questions about it post in the EP45-UD3 thread (see my sig for link). It normally doesn't take a lot of tweaking or fiddling to get to 3.8 to 4.0 on that board and cpu.


I 2nd that.. you're sitting on a glorious combination, and the support over at the thread is great... easy as pie to hit 3.8.. I'm at 3.7 without the 212.. that is going in soon to allow me to crack 4.0.

And besides, going from 2.83 to 3.2 is ok, i dont see a real need to use the 212 for that OC... but going to 3.5 would be a great leap for you (performance wise).. head on over there and let Papa and the boys steer you right, they helped me out!


----------



## Saiky

*Currently running phenom II x2 555 BE 3.2 (stock) at 3.6 (OC). Cooled By Hyper 212 Plus. Added a second PWM fan.*









Please sujjest how high can I go with a stable OC ?


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Had a chance to snap a few shots at work. Canon 5D, 100mm macro.


----------



## sbl03

I've got all 4 screws in as far as they will go, but the heatsink tower still rocks a little if I put enough force to it. Is this normal or indicative of a bad seating? Thanks..


----------



## Wile-E-Coyote

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbl03;12438083*
> I've got all 4 screws in as far as they will go, but the heatsink tower still rocks a little if I put enough force to it. Is this normal or indicative of a bad seating? Thanks..


Its normal. Wait you mean twists? Rocks I would take another look.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbl03;12438083*
> I've got all 4 screws in as far as they will go, but the heatsink tower still rocks a little if I put enough force to it. Is this normal or indicative of a bad seating? Thanks..


It shouldn't rock, but it is common for it to swivel.


----------



## hellfire72

This is a pretty decent CPU Cooler. I use it







Running my Core2Duo nicely at 3.38ghz Stable.

Edit: 3.74ghz stable


----------



## sbl03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12438159*
> It shouldn't rock, but it is common for it to swivel.


Yeah it swivels a little. Thanks.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Then don't worry about it unless the temps are higher than expected.


----------



## sbl03

delete


----------



## BungalowJunkie

212+ is in









So far so good. With my Arctic Freezer Pro 7, running Prime small ffts would spike at at least 80+ @3.7 (I had to kill the test as the temp kept goin up.)

Now I've actually been able to run prime for almost 15 mins and the cores are between 55 and 58









Like many others I had to remove my side 120mm, but I'll run things like this for a while then rotate the cooler north and south, sending air out the top 200mm.

Off to the battlefield!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Changing it to blow out the top instead of the back probably won't change the temps at all. In fact, with the temps you are getting now it sounds like you achieved an excellent install. Changing it might cause temps to rise if you don't get quite as good of a seat of the TIM.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

I guess the only reason why I may turn it to blow up is to try and get my side fan back in... but I agree I dont want to screw around with it more, lose a few degrees, then put it back the way it is now.

Plus, I can rearrange the HD cages at the front of my case so a fan can be right in line with the 212+.. actually I could add 2 fans as the antec 900 allows a 2nd interior fan to create a 'wind tunnel' effect.. which would make 4 fans in line with my cpu cooling..

I'll keep you posted!

and fyi the TIM method I did was using a credit card to get some in the valleys of the heatsink, then I added thin lines on the pipes themselves.. dropped it on the CPU with a few twists to get a good seal, then bolted down of course.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OptimusCaik*


i was gonna get one but apparently n520's are what cooler master's really selling.. they ran out of 212's at compusa. Got it for $20 2 days ago and installing it was a breeze! besides, dual 120mm's would be huge in my case.


If the n520s are what are really selling, why do you think the 212's were out of stock? Retailers will push what ever they have more of.. same thing happened to me at microcenter.. the guy was trying to talk me out of the 212's, but the bin for the 520s was completly full, while there were only 12 or so left of the 212's..

But if the 520 fits better in your case, then its a no brainer.


----------



## advion

Got the 212+ today and got it installed, was a good excuse to tear everything out of the case and reorganize the cables a little bit. Crappy iPhone 4 picture ahead, never realized how much I would miss the D3 even for stupid snapshots of my computer







Also it's pretty dusty and I'm too lazy to clean it out really good at the moment.

Right now temps at idle at about 45 C and while doing five runs of Intel Burn Test it hit 61 C but didn't go above that yet. This is still with the Q9550 just at stock speeds, will play with it more later.


----------



## gtsteviiee

Me! I've had mine since 09'.

Yeah, ghetto push-pull set up.


----------



## BungalowJunkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *advion;12446162*
> Got the 212+ today and got it installed, was a good excuse to tear everything out of the case and reorganize the cables a little bit. Crappy iPhone 4 picture ahead, never realized how much I would miss the D3 even for stupid snapshots of my computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also it's pretty dusty and I'm too lazy to clean it out really good at the moment.
> 
> Right now temps at idle at about 45 C and while doing five runs of Intel Burn Test it hit 61 C but didn't go above that yet. This is still with the Q9550 just at stock speeds, will play with it more later.


Picture is actually pretty good..

I think you could do better with your temps.. It could be your case but I have my q9550 OC'd to 3.7, and idle temps are around 35-40.. and load temps running prime for 30 mins are 55-58..

what was your method for applying the TIM?

Perhaps some of your settings in bios are set to auto, which usually cranks up voltages past where they could be, yielding higher temps.


----------



## Captain_cannonfodder

I currently have a Titan Fenrir EVO and the thing is HUGE! So I'm looking to downsize, I did build a PC for a friend using the 212+, seems very well made but would it be able to cool a 2600K at say, 4.5Ghz?


----------



## advion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BungalowJunkie;12446576*
> Picture is actually pretty good..
> 
> I think you could do better with your temps.. It could be your case but I have my q9550 OC'd to 3.7, and idle temps are around 35-40.. and load temps running prime for 30 mins are 55-58..
> 
> what was your method for applying the TIM?
> 
> Perhaps some of your settings in bios are set to auto, which usually cranks up voltages past where they could be, yielding higher temps.


I used the two line method and filled in the gaps on the 212 a little bit. Everything is on auto because I haven't messed with any of the settings yet. That's my next project which is to figure out a decent baseline for bios settings and work from there. Maybe I'll get to that tonight.


----------



## Durdle Class A

My Hyper 212+ with only 1 fan (stock fan), paired with i7 950 @ 3.6GHz @ 1.2Vcore
Prime95 loads at 68C, how does that sound?

I'm sure that's a safe temp, but should it be better?

I used stock TIM with 3 line method.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *advion;12446162*
> Got the 212+ today and got it installed, was a good excuse to tear everything out of the case and reorganize the cables a little bit. Crappy iPhone 4 picture ahead, never realized how much I would miss the D3 even for stupid snapshots of my computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also it's pretty dusty and I'm too lazy to clean it out really good at the moment.
> 
> Right now temps at idle at about 45 C and while doing five runs of Intel Burn Test it hit 61 C but didn't go above that yet. This is still with the Q9550 just at stock speeds, will play with it more later.


Those are about the same temps I'm getting at 4.25GHz in a 70F room. If your ambient room temp is in the 68-72F range then something doesn't sound right. I know that running on Auto settings in the bios tends to over volt a fair to middling amount, but unless your VID is in the 1.325 range or higher I doubt your voltages would be as high as mine are to run 4.25GHz. But it's probably time to move the discussion of your bios settings to the EP45-UD3 Thread here at OCN. We'll get you dialed in. When you do post be sure to determine what the VID of your Q9550 is. You can find that in CoreTemp. CPU-Z and other programs will NOT tell you what the VID is. Without knowing what the VID is it makes it more difficult to dial in the voltages.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle Class A;12448054*
> My Hyper 212+ with only 1 fan (stock fan), paired with i7 950 @ 3.6GHz @ 1.2Vcore
> Prime95 loads at 68C, how does that sound?
> 
> I'm sure that's a safe temp, but should it be better?
> 
> I used stock TIM with 3 line method.


That sounds about right to me.


----------



## psp3win

Need help. I picked up a open box hyper 212+ last week and it didn't have back plate comes with it.







Can anyone tell where can I get it? Thanks in advance.


----------



## MrAMD_Fan

Add me please....








Love the Hyper212+


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psp3win;12448761*
> Need help. I picked up a open box hyper 212+ last week and it didn't have back plate comes with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell where can I get it? Thanks in advance.


You'll need to contact CoolerMaster about it. It will probably take about 2 to 6 weeks to get it from them. Your alternative would be to contact the place you purchased it from and see if they can exchange it for one that does have the backplate. They never should have sold it without it.


----------



## psp3win

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12448955*
> You'll need to contact CoolerMaster about it. It will probably take about 2 to 6 weeks to get it from them. Your alternative would be to contact the place you purchased it from and see if they can exchange it for one that does have the backplate. They never should have sold it without it.


Thanks the info. I bought this for my friend. It is a as-is item. I should open it right after I got it.


----------



## 56Killer

I have a hyper 212+ but can't find my camera right now. I wanted to ask will Gentle Typhoon 2150 on push/pull be better than buying another BladerMaster?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *56Killer*


I have a hyper 212+ but can't find my camera right now. I wanted to ask will Gentle Typhoon 2150 on push/pull be better than buying another BladerMaster?


Not sure. I know that the stock BladeMaster by itself will beat a pair of 1850's in P/P, but I don't have any results for the 2150's. Based on the specs I would say they would more than likely be about the same as a pair of BladeMasters (probably within 1C). If you have them on hand I would suggest trying one as a Push fan in place of the stock Blademaster and see how it does by itself. If you have to purchase the 2150's I don't think it would be worth it as they are probably more expensive than BladeMaster is.


----------



## 56Killer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Not sure. I know that the stock BladeMaster by itself will beat a pair of 1850's in P/P, but I don't have any results for the 2150's. Based on the specs I would say they would more than likely be about the same as a pair of BladeMasters (probably within 1C). If you have them on hand I would suggest trying one as a Push fan in place of the stock Blademaster and see how it does by itself. If you have to purchase the 2150's I don't think it would be worth it as they are probably more expensive than BladeMaster is.


Actually I'm waiting to see if the group order from the forum is finally made in which the price is $8 each. If it doesn't then I order another BladerMaster to use. Also I'm currently idle at 40c and load at 50-52c with ambient at 27c is that ok or should I re-seat the cooler. First time I place the TIM I use to much so I took it off clean the excess up and installed the heatsink again. Thanks for the help.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Sounds about right to me. You sensors are probably sticking at the lower end and not giving your your actual idle temps. That's common and since idle temps are essentially meaningless anyway I wouldn't worry about it. Your load temps are fine.

If you do get some of those 2150's it would be nice if you could post your findings with them.


----------



## 56Killer

Ok Thanks for your help. Will post my findings when I finally receive them if they even make the order. Also will post the pic of my Hyper 212+ to get in the club later when I decide to take the time to turn off my pc and take it.


----------



## nickt1862

Okay gang, I'll probably be getting a Hyper 212 + (maybe tomorrow if sales cooperate) as I understand it applying the TIM 3 line method is the best for this heat sink right?

The question is how long a line - if I had to guess it be 50% of the total length centered.

Please correct me if I'm mistaken.

Thanks so much.


----------



## PapaSmurf

A pic isn't required to join, but it is nice. We love to see innards of people's computers.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nickt1862*


Okay gang, I'll probably be getting a Hyper 212 + (maybe tomorrow if sales cooperate) as I understand it applying the TIM 3 line method is the best for this heat sink right?

The question is how long a line - if I had to guess it be 50% of the total length centered.

Please correct me if I'm mistaken.

Thanks so much.










If the club owner hadn't botched posting the info on the first post you would have had a link to the method. Here it is WITH THE LINKS he took out.

The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If the club owner hadn't botched posting the info on the first post you would have had a link to the method. Here it is WITH THE LINKS he took out.

The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


I bet you have this explanation saved someplace - lol!
















Thanks for your response my friend, sounds like more work (OMG







) to prep this heatsink for cooling service - but I'll manage just fine and will use your tried method and actually like that way. I was kind of close in my thoughts of the three line method.

What do you think about using YL led fans on that cooler?

Thanks


----------



## PapaSmurf

I use Athena Canned Speech Manager. Makes those types of posts easy.

I only notice about 1C difference (if that much) between a pair of BladeMasters in P/P and a pair of Yate Loon SH's (High Speed). But the pair of BladeMasters are noticeably quieter.

It only takes a few seconds more than a flat based heatsink really. As long as you use the correct TIM that doesn't need to be replaced quite often (like Arctic Silver) it isn't a big deal.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I use *Athena Canned Speech Manager.* Makes those types of posts easy.

I only notice about 1C difference (if that much) between a pair of BladeMasters in P/P and a pair of Yate Loon SH's (High Speed). But the pair of BladeMasters are noticeably quieter.

It only takes a few seconds more than a flat based heatsink really. As long as you use the correct TIM that doesn't need to be replaced quite often (like Arctic Silver) it isn't a big deal.


Oh yeah one of those Firefox addons.

The problem is that I'm (at this point in time) an led fan nut - so what other fans would I be able to use that are as close to quiet as the Blademasters? CM R4 series maybe?

Arctic Silver is SOOOOOOOOOO overrated IMO - just terrible overpriced crazy glue stuff.

I use XYZ123 brand which has served me quite well. I do tend to change the TIM about once a year depending on computer use.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Try the ThermalFusion 400 that comes with the 212+ first. You might be surprised how good it is.

If you want LED fans I would give the Yates a go then. They are a little better than the CM R4's.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Try the ThermalFusion 400 that comes with the 212+ first. You might be surprised how good it is.

If you want LED fans I would give the Yates a go then. They are a little better than the CM R4's.


You mean something from CM like TIM is good?







I shall try it!

LED fans - it's not like I'll be running them at full speed so then noise doesn't become a factor really.

Edit: I was thinking of getting the V6 GT cooler but was told about the noisy fans.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If you do get some of those 2150's it would be nice if you could post your findings with them.


I'm thinking of replacing the blademaster to see if noise factor is improved or not. I'll let you know how that goes.


----------



## Vuashke

hey guys, ive got a 212+ and im thinking of putting another fan (or 2 fans) onto the heatsink. right now ive just got the stock one, what are some good decently priced 120mm fans i can use for my cooler? also, is it worth replacing the stock coolermaster fan, or does it perform well?

please note that i dont care about noise. i just want fans that push alot of air and keep my junk cool.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Answered in the very first post of the thread. Get a second BladeMaster (not a plain R4) to match the one that comes on it.


----------



## Vuashke

do blademasters beat out things like the antec tricool?

i dont think these blade masters are sold in australia, i cant find any sites with them :C


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes, they are better than Tri-Cools. If you can't find BladeMasters to add a second one in Push Pull or a pair of High Speed Yate Loons you would probably be better off just running the single Blademaster that comes with it. A pair of the Tri-Cools in P/P would probably be 1or 2C higher temps than the single BladeMaster by itself.


----------



## Vuashke

wow blade masters are pretty rough

if money was not a problem, what are some of the best fans available?


----------



## PapaSmurf

High Speed Yates might be 1C better than the BladeMasters. Aside from that it would be the top San Ace's or the 100cfm and up Deltas, but most people find them to be too loud. They are only a couple of degrees C better than the HS Yates anyway. If you need that kind of cooling you would be better off getting a Megahalems or one of the high end ThermalRights instead of a 212+.


----------



## mbudden

I find it funny that the OP gave his whole life story in the OP.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Give him a break. He was new when he did that.


----------



## mbudden

I just thought it was funny.
It has crossed my mind a fair bit, maybe sell this WC'ing kit and jump ship to this little cooler.


----------



## Vuashke

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


High Speed Yates might be 1C better than the BladeMasters. Aside from that it would be the top San Ace's or the 100cfm and up Deltas, but most people find them to be too loud. They are only a couple of degrees C better than the HS Yates anyway. If you need that kind of cooling you would be better off getting a Megahalems or one of the high end ThermalRights instead of a 212+.


how much difference would a megahalems give ? what about an d-14?


----------



## PapaSmurf

For most people not enough to justify the high cost of them. It's only worthwhile if you live in a very hot environment or you are an extreme overclocker. Depending on the type of cpu, the vcore used, and some other variables I would say between 3 and 5C, possibly more if you really push the OC. That's where you'll really notice the difference. With a mild OC you'll probably only notice around 2C, but the harder you push the OC the sooner the 212+ will become overwhelmed by the amount of heat produced. The ND14 and Megahalems have more mass and can handle higher OC's.


----------



## MuRRe

Getting myself an i5 750 tomorrow.
I was set on the Noctua NH-D14 but it's almost three times as expensive.
I think I decided on this.
The only thing I'm "worried" about applying the paste/TIM.
Anyone have a guide showing how to apply it properly since I don't fully understand this part:
"Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though."

So basically you put it on the heatsink surface, will i understand when I see the cooler?
I'm planning to overlock it to somewhere around 3.2GHz (just so it doesn't bottleneck in Starcraft 2)
EDIT: I think I can see it now.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If the club owner hadn't screwed up the first post by removing the links it would have been clear. Still don't understand why he did it and why he hasn't fixed it after numerous messages about it.

The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12487182*
> If the club owner hadn't screwed up the first post by removing the links it would have been clear. Still don't understand why he did it and why he hasn't fixed it after numerous messages about it.
> 
> The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.
> 
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5
> 
> That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


There has to be a better way! Someone please sticky the above!


----------



## PapaSmurf

I sent the entire FAQ to him via PM as well as linking to it in the thread several times but he decided to remove the links when he put it in the first post. I really wish I had taken over the club when I was asked instead of passing on it. At the time I expected to be busier than I turned out to be, plus the first post would have been more up to date and I would be spending less time answering the same questions over and over if I had.

Ho well, what are you going to do. Unless he decides to relinquish control the only thing I can do is keep posting the info over and over and over again, normally at least twice a day.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12487432*
> I sent the entire FAQ to him via PM as well as linking to it in the thread several times but he decided to remove the links when he put it in the first post. I really wish I had taken over the club when I was asked instead of passing on it. At the time I expected to be busier than I turned out to be, plus the first post would have been more up to date and I would be spending less time answering the same questions over and over if I had.
> 
> Ho well, what are you going to do. Unless he decides to relinquish control the only thing I can do is keep posting the info over and over and over again, normally at least twice a day.


I guess you should just automatically repost those instructions in this thread as soon as you wake up every single morning - lol!









"The Hyper 212+ instructions of the day" by PapaSmurf!


----------



## mbudden

Why not have a mod give you the thread if OP can't handle it?


----------



## PapaSmurf

*What makes the Hyper 212+ so desirable?*
One of the best things about the 212+ (aside from the price) is that you you don't need to buy anything extra to get excellent cooling. TheBladeMaster fan that comes with it is one of the best you can get for it. Anything that will actually cool better is louder and would only give about a 1C lower temp anyway. You can always pick up a second BladeMaster (not an R4) to run in a push/pull setup. The next step up would be High Speed Yate Loon fans, but the difference isn't worth the additional sound level as far as I'm concerned. A pair of the Medium Speed Yate Loon fans would be quieter, but wouldn't be able to provide as much cooling capacity as the single BladeMaster that comes with the 212+. The regular R4's from Coolermaster don't have as much static pressure and are louder so they aren't as good for this as the stock BladeMaster's or even the High Speed Yate's are, although they would be about as loud. Please note that when used on heatsinks and radiators Static Pressure is as important as CFMs as it's the pressure that forces the air through the fins. CFMs with low pressure like the standard R4's are okay when used as case fans, but they come up short on heatsinks.

CM R4 has 1.3mm H20 rating of static pressure.
CM Blade Master has a 3.9mmH20 rating of static pressure.
YL High Speed has 2.9mm H20 rating of static pressure.

A pair of BladeMaster's running in Push/Pull compared to a single BladeMaster would probably only be about 1 to 2C difference in temps. Unless you are doing some extreme overclocking or your computer is in a very hot climate it probably isn't enough to worry about. I only do it since I am running the [email protected] SMP client on my systems which means they run at 100% cpu load 24/7/365. If I wasn't doing that I would only be using a single BladeMaster on mine.

Compudaze did some tests with the Blademaster fan running by itself and in a push/pull setup running at various rpms. One of the interesting results he found was that by running 2 BladeMaster's in P/P at 1,600 RPM your temps will be within 0.3C of a single BladeMaster at it's full 2,000 RPMs, but the system was noticeably quieter. This might be just the thing for those who feel the single BladeMaster is too loud at full speed.

Based on compudaze's tests a pair of Yate Loon Medium Speed fans (which run at 1,650 RPMs) running in Push/Pull should yield the same results as a pair of BladeMaster's running in P/P at 1,600 rpm and be about as loud. While I don't have a pair to test, based on what I know about the Yate's I am confident that the difference would be within 1C. This would be a good option for someone who doesn't have a fan controller or who's motherboard won't allow them to control the BM fans manually. If I get a second YL Medium Speed Fan I'll test this to verify this and post back with the results.

*What fan comes with the Hyper 212+?*
This is the actual BladeMaster fan that comes with the 212+. There are other places that carry it though.

*What if my motherboard doesn't have enough PWM fan headers to run a pair of fans in PWM mode?*
This is a 12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable to allow you to run a pair of BladeMasters off of the same PWM fan header on a motherboard so they stay in sync if you use PWM. Even if your mobo does have enough headers, this is still a great way to make sure that they work together in an optimal fashion.

While it isn't necessary to do so for both fans to run in sync off of the same PWM header using one of the splitters some people like to snip the yellow rpm sense wire on one of the leads to disable RPM Readout of one of the fans in monitoring software. It has no effect on how the two fans work, only in the monitoring. If you don't the monitor might show the combined speed of both fans (re: 4,000 RPM if a pair of 2,000 RPM fans are used). It's merely cosmetic. It's up to you to decide if you want to snip one of the leads or not.

You can also get one that is sleeved, but it would be more difficult to snip the yellow rpm sense wire on the sleeved version.

*Do I need to buy a different Thermal Interface Material (TIM)?*
The ThermalFusion400 TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 or IC Diamond 7 or 24. The difference between MX-2, MX-3, MX-4, IC Diamond 7 or 24, or any of the other top TIM is about 1C when properly applied. For the most part it has more to do with how one applies the TIM than it does what TIM they use. The problem with Arctic Silver is that it has such a long break in period. It takes 2 weeks for it to properly break in and give optimum results. During that time it requires several periods of the system running for app. 2 hours, then off for 2 hours per day every day for 2 weeks or it never really cures. To top that off it needs to be cleaned off and re-applied every 10 to 12 months. Having to re-apply it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that long drawn out break in process. The other TIMS I mentioned along with the CM TIM that comes with the 212+ have a break in period of less than an hour, with most being only a couple of minutes, and that is with continuous running. THAT is what makes Arctic Silver such a poor TIM. Back when Arctic Silver was first introduced it was the best that was available, but that was 10 years or more ago. In the past 5 years or so several other TIM's have easily met or exceeded it's performance with much less work involved rendering AS not worth the time or trouble to use anymore.

*How should I apply the TIM?*
The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. Ap42 posted a good guide for this found here in this very thread. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

I've also found that cramming the TIM in the gaps along side of the heatpipes can actually cause temps to be higher so I have stopped recommending that people do that. Just run a small line of TIM along the 3 strips of the aluminum base between the 4 copper heatpipes, clamp it down, and let the pressure do the rest.

*What about side panel fans with a Hyper 212+?*
The chances of being able to mount a fan in the side panel of your case with a Hyper 212+ is somewhere between slim and none. The good news is you don't really need one. At best ll that side panel fan will do if you can mount it is bounce air off of the top of the heatsink (and the sides of the fan housings) which won't have any positive affect on your cpu temps. At the worst the airflow from that side panel fan will disrupt the natural airflow in the case causing the cpu temps to rise. In some cases (puns intended) a fan in the lower side panel position blowing on the graphics cards might help cool them, but that isn't a guarantee. Most of the time all the side panel fans do is make your computer louder. You are normally better off just leaving the fans out of the side panel openings (if they exist) and allow the natural airflow to draw in cool air or expel hot air as needed. It can be worth the time to test it out though if you have a fan to mount there, but I wouldn't go out and buy one just to test with though.

*My 212+ moves after I mounted it. Is that wrong?*
It depends. If all it does is swivel a bit that is normal. If it rocks then something is wrong. You should take it out of the system, double check that the mounting bracket is attached firmly, then remount the heatsink.

*The instructions that came with the 212+ are difficult to understand. Are there any guides that do a better job of explaining how to install it?*
Coolermaster did a terrible job on the instructions, especially for AMD systems. They have a video that does a great job for Intel systems, but nothing for AMD. Luckily Hardware Canucks has a guide for AMD users that you can use. With the exception of reversing the backplate the instructions work for an Intel system as well.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSq_xbxsm7Q&feature=player_embedded[/ame[/URL]]

*How does the 212+ stack up against a high end air cooler like a Noctua NH-D14, ThermalRight Venomous -X, Megahalems, etc.*
The 212+ is one of, if not the best bang for your buck cpu air coolers available, often available for $20 to $25. The NH-D14 and other high end cpu air coolers run $60 to $80 and up. While they will cool better, it won't be worth it to some people. Baldy did a comparison of a 212+ to a NH-D14. Vortex.net did a comparison of several of the higher end heatsink's along with the Hyper 212+. That should give you some idea on how much additional cooling you would get by spending 2 to 3 times as much money. If you need the absolute best air cooling solution and have the funds to do so then by all means go with one of the top units. But for a $20 to $25 outlay you simply can NOT beat a 212+ as there is absolutely nothing that works as well for that kind of money.

*What about mounting in on a Socket 1155 motherboard? Will it fit or work?*
While the mounting holes on socket 1155 boards is the same as on 1156 boards, the area around the socket isn't the same. There have been reports about some heatsinks that use a large backplate like the one the Hyper 212+ uses shorting out against solder points on the back side of some 1155 boards. While I haven't heard any specific reports of it happening with the Hyper 212+, it appears that it uses the same backplate as the CoolerMaster V6 which DOES have a problem on some boards. With that in mind one needs to be very diligent about checking around the socket area to make sure the backplate won't short out against anything. One site suggesting getting 4 nylon washers to put between the backplate and the motherboard to isolate the backplate from coming into contact with any of the electrical components on the backside of the board. You can pick these nylon washers up and any hardware store for less than a dollar, at least here in the USA. I'm not sure about other countries.

As I receive further information about this issue I will add it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12487514*
> Why not have a mod give you the thread if OP can't handle it?


Since he is still active on OCN and here in the thread he would have to request that someone else take it over.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12487578*
> Since he is still active on OCN and here in the thread he would have to request that someone else take it over.


Maybe I should PM him about this - what do you think?

EDIT: Yeah, I'll do it for my friend.









I'm sure going to try anyway.


----------



## mbudden

I wouldn't call 26 posts.... "active".
lol.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12487691*
> I wouldn't call 26 posts.... "active".
> lol.


Logged in 3 hours ago is as "active" as he gets without posting in quite a while.


----------



## Faster_is_better

PapaSmurf you are on the ball, great info up there. Good job


----------



## Citra

@Papasmurf:
If the OP is not updating. I personally think you should be the replacement. You are really helpful and provide great info.
If the OP is inactive, there should be a voting system for a new OP. Would be much eaiser.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12487691*
> I wouldn't call 26 posts.... "active".
> lol.


Active as in he updated the first post in the thread about a week ago. That's more than a lot of the club owners do.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12487793*
> Active as in he updated the first post in the thread about a week ago. That's more than a lot of the club owners do.


I did PM the OP of this thread, let's see what happens.


----------



## MuRRe

So THIS is how I should do it?


----------



## PapaSmurf

That seems to be the way that works best for most people. Since the 212+ has 4 heatpipes instead of the picture's 3 you would use 3 lines of tim instead of 2, but the concept is the same.


----------



## onslaught_

I also think PapaSmurf should take over this thread, I'm subscribed to this thread and he's been awesome at helping out a lot of people with all their questions...even the noobs like me. I don't think the OP would care nonetheless









+1 for a thread revolution!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onslaught_;12490024*
> +1 for a thread revolution!


x2


----------



## tsm106

^^I concur.

Btw, do rights to a thread get changed often? There's a few threads just like this one that come to mind that need a privilege change.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106;12495048*
> ^^I concur.
> 
> Btw, do rights to a thread get changed often? There's a few threads just like this one that come to mind that need a privilege change.


It happens, but only at the request of the OP or if the OP hasn't been active for a long time.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Installed my 212+ on an i5 760 quadcore and paired it with a scythe kaze jyuni fan.

When I built the rig, I used a plastic card to spread and set the TIM inside all the grooves before seating it upon the CPU; an old heatsink installation trick I picked up from the forums back in the day.

Even with the kaze jyuni fan running at 5V, the thing doesn't get over 40 degrees C even at full load.

When I first bought it, I was thinking to myself 'maybe I should get some arctic silver to replace the stuff that disappeared on me', but then I got lazy and didn't bother.









But when I opened it up and saw the TIM syringe I realized that maybe I didn't need to. And after applying it to the HDT, I was impressed at it's consistency. Its viscosity was much lower, the consistency was much smoother than I was expecting and didn't go on like a thick paste like Arctic Silver.

Fan installation was a little more difficult than I was expecting, so maybe in the next revision they can improve on that?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106;12495048*
> Btw, do rights to a thread get changed often? There's a few threads just like this one that come to mind that need a privilege change.


I just recently reported Sapphire's fan club thread OP. The next day a mod posted looking for a replacement. Though that guy hasn't logged on for more than 45 days.


----------



## tsm106

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12496024*
> It happens, but only at the request of the OP or if the OP hasn't been active for a long time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;12496648*
> I just recently reported Sapphire's fan club thread OP. The next day a mod posted looking for a replacement. Though that guy hasn't logged on for more than 45 days.


Thanks for the replies. I find it annoying that some OP's are still active but have for whatever reason ignored their clubs that have remained active! Why...?


----------



## QuackPot

What would two thelmalright x-silent 120mm fans be like on a 212+?


----------



## looks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra;12487790*
> @Papasmurf:
> If the OP is not updating. I personally think you should be the replacement. You are really helpful and provide great info.
> If the OP is inactive, there should be a voting system for a new OP. Would be much eaiser.


+1
he was very helpful indeed.
^^


----------



## nickt1862

PapaSmurf is "THE MAAAAAAAAN"!

He tries to help anyone and explains himself well.
















Also he's one smart dude when it comes to computing - so I nominate PapaSmurf as new "ringleader" of this thread!


----------



## Krusher33

Same.


----------



## 56Killer

Agreed


----------



## ffejrxx

+1


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12498341*
> What would two thelmalright x-silent 120mm fans be like on a 212+?


Not sure. I know TatorTot did a review of some ThermalRight fans a couple of months ago but I can't find them at the moment and they might not be the same ones. Can you post a link to the specific ones you are referring to and I'll see what I can figure out.


----------



## looks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looks;12224727*


recently changed from E8400 to 2600K ^^


----------



## snoogins

Woot! Just got mine installed after the stock 955 fan decided to get louder and louder. The installation wasn't as hard as many people have said, minus the fact that there was no hint on how the scissor mechanism really worked.
Started out at 47 idle/59ish load with stock cooler. I'm now at 40 load after an hour of prime95.. guess now I can OC it a bit

















Really dumb q, but the fan is moving air which way? (I hate fans =/)


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you didn't change the mount it pushes air into and through the heatsink so you need to move it to the other side so it pushes the air out towards the fan in the backside of the case.

A nice hint about fans. They normally have an arrow on one side of them pointing in the direction that the air flows. Also, when you look at a fan you'll see cross-braces on one side and not the other. The side with the cross-braces is the exhaust (or out-going) direction. You want that side facing the heatsink.


----------



## snoogins

I should have been a bit more clear in my question regarding my fan. The case is an A05n, so the intake is in the back, and the exhaust is in the front.
So in that case I am assuming I put it right


----------



## PapaSmurf

Then yes, you have it correct. I've just never seen a case where the intake is in the back and the exhaust is in the front. That goes against all logic and every airflow guide I've run across.


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snoogins;12518505*
> I should have been a bit more clear in my question regarding my fan. The case is an A05n, so the intake is in the back, and the exhaust is in the front.
> So in that case I am assuming I put it right


that is a strange case design
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112219

upsidedown and backward compared to most others

psu in front bottom (make sure its switch is on before you install it)


----------



## looks

most popular lian li case at [H]ardForum though.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That isn't much of a recommendation. A bit better than Tom's Hardware, but not by much.


----------



## Bagwej

I think the answer is yes, but I can't find it written in stone anywhere. Will the Hyper 212 fit in a HAF 932 without removing the side fan?


----------



## Bagwej

And when I buy a second fan for the push pull I doubt it will come with the appropriate mount. Where do I find such?

Edit: Question answered below. Thanks poster.


----------



## Horsemama1956

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bagwej;12520136*
> And when I buy a second fan for the push pull I dount it will come with the appropriate mount. Where do I find such?


Your cooler came with 2. 1 pre-installed on the default fan, and one if you want to add an additional fan. The 2 black plastic braces and 4 black screws.


----------



## nikkisman69

here is a pic of my cooler master hyper 212 plus


----------



## prznar1

hey ho









my friend got a cm 212+, he is happy with it







but. he is upgrading to the i7 970. want to run it @ 4.0 - 4.2 GHz. somehow, he dont want to change the hyper 212+. will it be enough for his hexa core chip such as gulftown?? i highly doubt that, but this cooler is full of surprises







now he got a 920 and under linx (30 mins) @ 4.0GHz temps are reaching the round 70c.

he got two blade masters on it (one from box, one more bought for push pull config).


----------



## looks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1;12520692*
> hey ho
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my friend got a cm 212+, he is happy with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but. he is upgrading to the i7 970. want to run it @ 4.0 - 4.2 GHz. somehow, he dont want to change the hyper 212+. will it be enough for his hexa core chip such as gulftown?? i highly doubt that, but this cooler is full of surprises
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now he got a 920 and under linx (30 mins) @ 4.0GHz temps are reaching the round 70c.
> 
> he got two blade masters on it (one from box, one more bought for push pull config).


I'm getting temps around 75°C on my 2600k at 4.5Ghz with 1.32v, maybe upgrading to silver arrow in near future.


----------



## prznar1

yes but you got a sandybridge. he is moving to gulftown (6 core vs 4 core of yours).


----------



## QuackPot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Not sure. I know TatorTot did a review of some ThermalRight fans a couple of months ago but I can't find them at the moment and they might not be the same ones. Can you post a link to the specific ones you are referring to and I'll see what I can figure out.


This fan.

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120mm...e-emission-fan


----------



## jach11

I have 2 Hyper 212+'s. One has 2 Ultra Kaze 3000's in push pull config and the other computer has the stock fan.


----------



## Horsemama1956

So I have no local blademasters and decided to grab 2 R4's(they only had LED versions) but wasn't sure since someone said the blademasters would be better? Load temps dropped by 5 down to 42 from 47 with a single fan compared to the single BM. Going to try push/pull later on tonight and throw the other fans I have in my case.

Don't like the LEDs, but I cant see them anyways.


----------



## nickt1862

This morning I ordered one!









Which really cost me $10.00 less because that gift card I paid $10.00 for a $20.00 a few weeks back.

Items Ordered Price
1 of: Cooler Master RR-B10-212P-G1 Hyper 212 Plus 775/1156/1366/AMD/AM2/AM3 Universal Direct Contact Heat-Pipe 120mm Fan CPU Cooler [Electronics]
Condition: New
Sold by: LLYTECH INC. (seller profile)
$27.00

Item(s) Subtotal: $27.00
Shipping & Handling: $6.76
Super Saver Discount: -$6.76
-----
Total Before Tax: $27.00
Sales Tax: $0.00
Gift Certificate/Card Amount: $20.00
-----
Total for This Shipment: $7.00
Total paid by Gift Certificate/Card: $20.00


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bagwej*


I think the answer is yes, but I can't find it written in stone anywhere. Will the Hyper 212 fit in a HAF 932 without removing the side fan?


It should, but you should ask in the HAF Thread here at OCN to find out for sure. They would know what the maximum height of a tower heatsink that will fit in one of them clearing the side fan.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *prznar1*


hey ho









my friend got a cm 212+, he is happy with it







but. he is upgrading to the i7 970. want to run it @ 4.0 - 4.2 GHz. somehow, he dont want to change the hyper 212+. will it be enough for his hexa core chip such as gulftown?? i highly doubt that, but this cooler is full of surprises







now he got a 920 and under linx (30 mins) @ 4.0GHz temps are reaching the round 70c.

he got two blade masters on it (one from box, one more bought for push pull config).


Possibly, but it will definitely hit a wall sooner than one of the larger and considerably more expensive heatsinks would. It would also depend on the case it is mounted in and how hot the ambient room temps are. The only way to know for sure is to try it, but I have a feeling that it will struggle at 4.2GHz.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Horsemama1956*


So I have no local blademasters and decided to grab 2 R4's(they only had LED versions) but wasn't sure since someone said the blademasters would be better? Load temps dropped by 5 down to 42 from 47 with a single fan compared to the single BM. Going to try push/pull later on tonight and throw the other fans I have in my case.

Don't like the LEDs, but I cant see them anyways.


I'm surprised. I've always seen a single Blademaster outperform a pair of R4's in P/P, but anything is possible. It's possible that your Blademaster is defective or not spinning at full speed.

You can disconnect the leds on the R4's so they don't light up.


----------



## prznar1

thx papa







guys, i will let you know if this heatsink is capable of cooling the gulftown, in next week


----------



## Shooter116

Just switched from a 550BE to a 955BE the other day. Used to hit 40-43 under load @ 3.6ghz 1.4v, now I hit 43-47 under load @ 3.5ghz 1.4v... fine for now

I had a harder time installing the cooler the 2nd time for some reason too, those sneaky spring screws.. After the battle I figured I would just remount it anyway but the temps are pretty good it seems.. idle temp is much lower this time around as well.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The idle temps probably aren't actually lower. Your 550BE probably had stuck sensors at the bottom end and didn't report their actual idle temp. That's common.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuackPot;12498341*
> What would two thelmalright x-silent 120mm fans be like on a 212+?


From what I can tell based on the specs not that well. They are better suited to be used as case fans. Those aren't the ones that TT tested. If you are running basically at stock speeds or only a mild OC then they would probably be okay, but not if you OC a lot. They should be quiet though.


----------



## snoogins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12518854*
> That isn't much of a recommendation. A bit better than Tom's Hardware, but not by much.


Its a case that was recommended to me based on my wants/needs. After adding a top blow-hole to the computer the temps are all fine.. the case really just rocks.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Not saying there is anything wrong with the case, only that a recommendation from either of those two sites isn't that big of a deal.


----------



## snoogins

Ah, I spent a few weeks trying to decide which case to get, and then had to wait another 3 months before I could get the top for the case =/


----------



## Durdle Class A

Hi, I am wondering if my 212+ should be remounted. During Prime95 small ffts, I am reaching temperatures of 82C for hottest core, I'm at 3.8 GHz 1.26Vcore.

However during CPU heavy apps, games, I only reach 70C max.
SMP folding also takes it to about 76C.

Should I remount cooler?

Using stock blademaster fans

BTW add me to club


----------



## Durdle Class A

bump..


----------



## Shooter116

82C definitely sounds a little high even for that CPU.. Maybe it wouldn't be a bad idea to re-mount, but I would wait for some insight from some more intel folks. Not sure why prime95 would take your CPU that much higher than any other application.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Durdle Class A*


Hi, I am wondering if my 212+ should be remounted. During Prime95 small ffts, I am reaching temperatures of 82C for hottest core, I'm at 3.8 GHz 1.26Vcore.

However during CPU heavy apps, games, I only reach 70C max.
SMP folding also takes it to about 76C.

Should I remount cooler?

Using stock blademaster fans

BTW add me to club










Remount.


----------



## marky_11

from 61C full load down to 48C full load

love it~


----------



## nickt1862

Blade Master fan for this heat sink: other than Newegg is there any other place I can get this cheaper including shipping? Thanks


----------



## PapaSmurf

http://www.directron.com/r4bmbs20pkr0.html?gsear=1


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12547771*
> http://www.directron.com/r4bmbs20pkr0.html?gsear=1










Thanks buttttttttttt.........................................though it's cheaper than Newegg by not all that much taking into consideration I have to pay sales tax on Newegg purchases in NJ which would come @ approx. .84 more but I would get it the next day.

Here's the calculations from Directron and shipping to NJ:

Shopping Cart
Item Unit Price Qty. In Stock Cost
CoolerMaster Blade Master 120mm Case Fan, 4 Pin, 600-2000 RPM, Model: R4-BMBS-20PK-R0 [remove] $8.99 Yes $8.99

Subtotal: $8.99
Shipping: $4.98
Tax: $0.00
Total: $13.97


----------



## mojosephwu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RallyMaster;8547804*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push-pull Yate Loon D12SL-12s are pretty effective. So much quieter than that stock 2000RPM gremlin and better performing as well.


is two cooler master blade master 120mm fan (push and pull) better than the two yate loon D12SL-12s??


----------



## Wile-E-Coyote

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojosephwu;12548878*
> is two cooler master blade master 120mm fan (push and pull) better than the two yate loon D12SL-12s??


The quick answer is yep.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojosephwu;12548878*
> is two cooler master blade master 120mm fan (push and pull) better than the two yate loon D12SL-12s??


Depends on how you measure better. A pair of Yate Loon SH's (the high speed Yates) are only about 1C better than a pair of BladeMasters. A pair of SL's would be quieter, but with their much lower CFM and Static Pressure they would be about 4 to 6C higher temps than a pair of BladeMasters and 3-5C higher than a single BladeMaster. Yate Loon SL's are better suited as case fans than they are as heatsink/radiator fans. If you want quiet, then the Yate SL's would be better. If you want cooling performance, then the BladeMasters are better.


----------



## mojosephwu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12549009*
> Depends on how you measure better. A pair of Yate Loon SH's (the high speed Yates) are only about 1C better than a pair of BladeMasters. A pair of SL's would be quieter, but with their much lower CFM and Static Pressure they would be about 4 to 6C higher temps than a pair of BladeMasters and 3-5C higher than a single BladeMaster. Yate Loon SL's are better suited as case fans than they are as heatsink/radiator fans. If you want quiet, then the Yate SL's would be better. If you want cooling performance, then the BladeMasters are better.


where can you buy the yate loon D12SL tho? any suggestion on which website ?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojosephwu;12549104*
> where can you buy the yate loon D12SL tho? any suggestion on which website ?


http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/819736-yate-loon-d12sh-12-round-up.html


----------



## PapaSmurf

What country? It always amazes me when someone asks where to buy something but doesn't have the courtesy or common sense to tell you where they are from. OCN has a spot in the user profile just for that purpose and it should be mandatory to fill it in with ones country at the very least.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12549126*
> What country? It always amazes me when someone asks where to buy something but doesn't have the courtesy or common sense to tell you where they are from. *OCN has a spot in the user profile just for that purpose and it should be mandatory to fill it in with ones country at the very least.*


Agreed as on any section in this forum so many times it becomes either a guessing or assuming game to then only find out that an explanation was a waste of time and effort.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Plus it also makes it easier to know that someone is from a part of the world where English is not the native language. If you know that English is not their first language you tend to ignore their grammar and spelling mistakes a lot more than you do with someone who's native language is English and you know they just aren't trying to be coherent.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12549438*
> Plus it also makes it easier to know that someone is from a part of the world where English is not the native language. If you know that English is not their first language you tend to ignore their grammar and spelling mistakes a lot more than you do with someone who's native language is English and you know they just aren't trying to be coherent.


Wow!!! 5000 posts!!!!! - congrats!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Thanks. That probably wasn't one of my better posts to be #5,000.


----------



## wahooman63

I have a MSI 870A-g54 and I'm using a Freezer 7 right now. Well it blocks a RAM slot. I am considering the 212 but I'm not sure weather or not it will block the RAM. Anyone have this board and cooler?


----------



## PapaSmurf

The actual heatsink of the 212+ won't block any of the ram slots, but you might have to mount the fan up a quarter to half inch up on the heatsink to clear the ram slots closest to the cpu socket depending on how high the heatsinks on the ram are. That won't affect cooling by more than 1C if at all. Just make sure that you mount it so that it blows out the back of the case rather than the top as shown in the pics in this post.


----------



## wahooman63

Thanks for the reply. Going to pick one up tomorrow and see how it goes


----------



## QuackPot

Anyone got any comparison between the 212+ and the standard intel HSF for the Sandy Bridge CPUs?


----------



## mojosephwu

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


What country? It always amazes me when someone asks where to buy something but doesn't have the courtesy or common sense to tell you where they are from. OCN has a spot in the user profile just for that purpose and it should be mandatory to fill it in with ones country at the very least.


oh sry i live in California


----------



## PapaSmurf

In California SVC has them.


----------



## mbudden

I see we got a little clean up that was needed in here.
But SVC is great and has some low prices on a majority of things.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


I see we got a little clean up that was needed in here.
But SVC is great and has some low prices on a majority of things.


What cleanup?


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


What cleanup?


Someone posted saying how crappy the 212+ was and how he was getting crappy temps. I believe he also was cursing, so a mod cleaned it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *QuackPot*


Anyone got any comparison between the 212+ and the standard intel HSF for the Sandy Bridge CPUs?


I would say at least 10C lower temps, possibly more. It's well worth the price.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


Someone posted saying how crappy the 212+ was and how he was getting crappy temps. I believe he also was cursing, so a mod cleaned it.


Sorry I missed it. Getting crappy temps normally means it either wasn't installed correctly, the TIM wasn't applied correctly, the case has poor overall airflow, or they are trying to OC too high. The 212+ is an excellent heatsink, but it isn't in the same class as the much more expensive Megahalems, NH-D14, or a top of the line ThermalRight.


----------



## mbudden

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Sorry I missed it. Getting crappy temps normally means it either wasn't installed correctly, the TIM wasn't applied correctly, the case has poor overall airflow, or they are trying to OC too high. The 212+ is an excellent heatsink, but it isn't in the same class as the much more expensive Megahalems, NH-D14, or a top of the line ThermalRight.


I wouldn't help someone that was so ignorant.
But yeah, most people don't realize that you can end up getting a bad mount. Same thing happens with WC'ing newbies that don't know how to mount a block properly. I wish people would understand these weren't made to compete with the high end air coolers, they are a low cost, good all around air cooler for the buck.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Exactly. They are the best bang for your buck heatsink available at this time. Depending on your CPU they can be very effective and allow one to OC quite well. But when you throw a high end i7 cpu at them and try to OC to the moon you are pushing them beyond their capabilities, especially if you enable hyperthreading..


----------



## mbudden

Yeah. How's it handle that Q9550 of yours? Is it running at 4.29Ghz on the 212+? If so, that's quite impressive.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mbudden*


... they are a low cost, good all around air cooler for the buck.


The best in its class imo.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It's running at 60-64C in a 71-72F room under 100% load using a pair of Yate Loon High Speed 120mm fans with IC 7 Diamond TIM. It's actually at 4.25GHz now, I just never got around to changing the System Spec. That rig runs the Folding at Home SMP client 24/7 so it gets a good workout.


----------



## JAM3S121

I was trying to install my hyper 212 on my new motherboard since the one i had needed to be RMA'd.

The piece that screws into the standoff and applys pressure to the heatsink came apart.. like the screw came loose and both pieces fell apart, i put the screw back on with the spring but i wasn't sure if it was going to work properly so I scraped it and put on the intel heatsink after i cleaned up the TIM with iso. alcohol 91%

Anyways my 100% load temps with prime 95 running for barely 3 minutes are above 80c, should I be worried?


----------



## mbudden

80C. That's a bit high.
What's speed/voltage is your i7 running at?


----------



## JAM3S121

Running stock speed.

i set the voltage to normal in bios so it wouldn't auto volt it to higher settings but still seems to high, maybe i didn't seat the stock heatsink properly I want to use my hyper212+ but that stupid bracket that needs to be screwed in came apart


----------



## PapaSmurf

The center screw shoud go through the x-bar, the spring, and screw into a knurled nut. As long as the screw is secure in the nut it should be okay.


----------



## JAM3S121

Thanks papa I went ahead and installed the heatsink anyway, looked at a picture of how it "should" look on google images and fixed it

these are my temps running prime 95, i also wedged a fan in my optical drive bays intaking air towards the hyper 212+ which is sucking in air which it should do right?

http://img822.imageshack.us/i/mytempsunderload.png/

the temps read 55c-60c on full load now and idle which i know is negligible around 30c

used pea method of tim


----------



## ffejrxx

the cores should be within 5c of each other

re apply your tim
wipe it off the cpu, then use a credit card to fill in the cracks in the heatsink and smooth it out
then put a half pea sized dot in the center of the cpu
and apply the heatsink


----------



## PapaSmurf

That looks pretty good to me. Putting a fan in the 5.25" bays like that pulling air in from the outside and pushing it into the case towards the cpu heatsink is an excellent method to increase airflow where it is most needed. That should help quite a bit.


----------



## JAM3S121

running core temp i dont see any cores that really jump away from the others more then 5c +/- using prime95.

Looks alright to me too, I really don't need to overclock right now I just want everything to work! After seeing the stock heatsink jump to 80c I quickly ran to try and fix the hyper212+ bracket that fell apart mid installation. +rep for help


----------



## nikkisman69

here is a pic of my hyper 212 so that i can be added to the club


----------



## RiKKuXd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikkisman69;12572945*
> here is a pic of my hyper 212 so that i can be added to the club


nice is that the pantom case?
cause i got phantom case and this cpu cooler but is it possible to add side 200mm fan? cause its so bulky!


----------



## nikkisman69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RiKKuXd;12573112*
> nice is that the pantom case?
> cause i got phantom case and this cpu cooler but is it possible to add side 200mm fan? cause its so bulky!


nah its the nzxt tempest evo........everyon said i couldnt have a side mounted fan in it but the cooler is higher than the fan


----------



## wooly

Hi chaps, guess I joined the club. But need help lol

any decent guides on the web that I can print off rather than following the poor (and very small) instructions?

I have NZXT Alpha case, gigabyte 790FXT mobo, just a guide to sticking the backplate on safely if you will please!
http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/944955-unlocked-phenomii-x2-550be-x4-b50.html


----------



## Gustaf

Another member of the Hyper 212+ is reporting in!








I've noticed that PapaSmurf seems to be a guru when it comes to this cooler. I'm having quite bad temperatures with mine. I have the following components (that affects cooling):
AMD Phenom II X4 965BE @ 3,8GHz 1,375V (stock 1,4V)
MX-2 Paste
Antec P183 with 2 Noiseblocker BlackSilent at the rear and a Slipstream 1600rpm in the front (the latter is always turned off since it makes my temps worse)

The best I can achieve while running Prime95 Blend is about 55-57C with all fans at full speed. Taking the side cover of does not affect the temperature (perhaps 1C at most).

Ambient temp is about 18C. I'm planning on remounting it this weekend, if you think I can achieve better results.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gustaf;12585584*
> Another member of the Hyper 212+ is reporting in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've noticed that PapaSmurf seems to be a guru when it comes to this cooler. I'm having quite bad temperatures with mine. I have the following components (that affects cooling):
> AMD Phenom II X4 965BE @ 3,8GHz 1,375V (stock 1,4V)
> MX-2 Paste
> Antec P183 with 2 Noiseblocker BlackSilent at the rear and a Slipstream 1600rpm in the front (the latter is always turned off since it makes my temps worse)
> 
> The best I can achieve while running Prime95 Blend is about 55-57C with all fans at full speed. Taking the side cover of does not affect the temperature (perhaps 1C at most).
> 
> Ambient temp is about 18C. I'm planning on remounting it this weekend, if you think I can achieve better results.


Remount doesn't hurt. Is CPU fan pushing a lot of air?


----------



## Phillychuck

Got mine at Microcenter for $24. My reason for signing up for this community is a chunk of shiny metal!

There she blows!


----------



## Gustaf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;12586264*
> Remount doesn't hurt. Is CPU fan pushing a lot of air?


Well, I'm using the stock fan on my cooler and it's supposed to be a really good one from what I've read? I guess it's spinning at about 1800rpm iirc. I can't feel much air coming out on the other side though (hand behind the cooler, open case) There's no dust in it.


----------



## Krusher33

You should feel quite a bit actually, if it's blowing full speed. Check speed in BIOS or with a program.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooly;12582008*
> Hi chaps, guess I joined the club. But need help lol
> 
> any decent guides on the web that I can print off rather than following the poor (and very small) instructions?
> 
> I have NZXT Alpha case, gigabyte 790FXT mobo, just a guide to sticking the backplate on safely if you will please!
> http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/944955-unlocked-phenomii-x2-550be-x4-b50.html


I've seen several guides online (including videos) that show you how to mount it in an Intel board, but none that are very good at showing how to mount on an AMD board. I stopped using AMD after S939 and have absolutely no knowledge on how to go about it on one of them.
About the best I can do is this screen cap enlargement of the installation guide from CM and add a couple of comments. For AMD make sure that the actual base of the backplate is against the motherboard with the four 'wings' sticking up. This is opposite of how you mount the backplate on an Intel system. Otherwise the it's the same as mounting it on an Intel system as seen in this video. You do have to remove the stock AMD retention bracket first though.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSq_xbxsm7Q&feature=player_embedded[/ame[/URL]].









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gustaf;12585584*
> Another member of the Hyper 212+ is reporting in!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've noticed that PapaSmurf seems to be a guru when it comes to this cooler. I'm having quite bad temperatures with mine. I have the following components (that affects cooling):
> AMD Phenom II X4 965BE @ 3,8GHz 1,375V (stock 1,4V)
> MX-2 Paste
> Antec P183 with 2 Noiseblocker BlackSilent at the rear and a Slipstream 1600rpm in the front (the latter is always turned off since it makes my temps worse)
> 
> The best I can achieve while running Prime95 Blend is about 55-57C with all fans at full speed. Taking the side cover of does not affect the temperature (perhaps 1C at most).
> 
> Ambient temp is about 18C. I'm planning on remounting it this weekend, if you think I can achieve better results.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gustaf;12586388*
> Well, I'm using the stock fan on my cooler and it's supposed to be a really good one from what I've read? I guess it's spinning at about 1800rpm iirc. I can't feel much air coming out on the other side though (hand behind the cooler, open case) There's no dust in it.


That does sound high to me, but I'm an Intel guy and not that familiar with the AMD cpus since socket 939. I would do a remount and make sure that you cram some of the TIM in the gaps between the heatpipes and the base. That can make a significant difference. And what TIM are you using? The stock TIM that comes with the 212+ is quite good. Some people who don't know any better will try to use crap like Arctic Silver which doesn't perform that well compared to more modern and better quality TIM.

The stock fan should be spinning at about 2,000RPM. If it's only spinning at 1,800 you might want to check your fan header setting in the bios to make sure it isn't throttling it back. That could account for some of the problem. Also check the part number on the fan to make sure the correct one was packaged with it. The following image shows what you should have received. You should be able to feel a reasonable amount of air flowing out the back side of the heatsink with it running at full speed.


----------



## Krusher33

Max temp for a Phenom II 965 is 62c.

http://products.amd.com/en-us/DesktopCPUDetail.aspx?id=617&f1=AMD+Phenom%E2%84%A2+II+X4&f2=&f3=&f4=512&f5=&f6=&f7=&f8=&f9=&f10=&f11=&f12=True


----------



## Gustaf

Thanks!

I know the max temperature is 62C but I did have higher hopes than barely overclocking, undervolting and running the CPU fan at about 1800:ish RPM.

I have a Scythe fan controller so that I have full control and RPM-reading of all my fans.

I've read about many people achieving 45-50C (with 1,45V!) load with this cooler and CPU. The HDT coolers were new when I bought my Hyper212+ so I applied the TIM (MX-2) as everyone else, by spreading a thin layer on the IHS of the CPU.

Can I achieve better temps with a fan like Gentle Typhoon? Since it has quite high static pressure and the fins on the cooler are quite tightly placed.


----------



## wooly

just googled a good AMD guide and printed it off incase it helps anyone else.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...clearance.html


----------



## RiKKuXd

Anybody got the Coolermaster hyper 212+ installed on a NZXT Phantom case?
If so please pm me. I wanna know if theres enough space to fit a side 200mm fan.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gustaf*


Thanks!

I know the max temperature is 62C but I did have higher hopes than barely overclocking, undervolting and running the CPU fan at about 1800:ish RPM.

I have a Scythe fan controller so that I have full control and RPM-reading of all my fans.

I've read about many people achieving 45-50C (with 1,45V!) load with this cooler and CPU. The HDT coolers were new when I bought my Hyper212+ so I applied the TIM (MX-2) as everyone else, by spreading a thin layer on the IHS of the CPU.

Can I achieve better temps with a fan like Gentle Typhoon? Since it has quite high static pressure and the fins on the cooler are quite tightly placed.


In that case I would do a reseat. Also try blowing another fan at the cooler. Maybe it's using warm air from inside the case somehow. Just taking the panel off doesn't always eliminate the problem. A lot of times I see someone put a fan in their drive bays and it helped greatly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RiKKuXd*


Anybody got the Coolermaster hyper 212+ installed on a NZXT Phantom case?
If so please pm me. I wanna know if theres enough space to fit a side 200mm fan.


I don't think that you will. The case is only 16mm wider than mine and the cooler is just a few mm away from panel.


----------



## crUk

Got mine today. My Goodness! The OC in me almost made me use up a whole new tube of MX-4. The HDT is not flat at all the two heat pipes in the middle stick out, i had to do a bit of lapping to make all four pipes have contact with the CPU.
Temps are pretty good though 12c less than my previous Zalman 9500.
Im a happy bunny!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crUk;12596408*
> Got mine today. My Goodness! The OC in me almost made me use up a whole new tube of MX-4. The HDT is not flat at all the two heat pipes in the middle stick out, i had to do a bit of lapping to make all four pipes have contact with the CPU.
> Temps are pretty good though 12c less than my previous Zalman 9500.
> Im a happy bunny!


Gotta be careful lapping heatsinks with exposed heat pipes, if you rupture the heat pipes the cooler is useless.

I got my rebate back on mine yesterday woot!


----------



## wooly

fitted mine this afternoon, All cool so far









1 slight issue is I had to move my fan from the inside of my side window to the outside on my NZXT Alpha. I thought it fit perfectly at first but the blades on the case fan were catching on the copper nibs of the hyper 212+ lol


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wooly*


just googled a good AMD guide and printed it off incase it helps anyone else.

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...clearance.html


Great find. I've added it to my 212+ Guide that hopefully can get added to the first post IN IT'S ENTIRETY WITH ALL LINKS INTACT one of these days if the club owner ever get's his act together. I'll be posting it tomorrow and at least once a week until he get's off his lazy backside and does his job.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wooly*


fitted mine this afternoon, All cool so far









1 slight issue is I had to move my fan from the inside of my side window to the outside on my NZXT Alpha. I thought it fit perfectly at first but the blades on the case fan were catching on the copper nibs of the hyper 212+ lol


It the side panel fan is directly over the top of the 212+ is isn't going to do anything useful anyway as all it will do is bounce air off of the top of the heatsink. The air won't reach the vrms, ram, or anything else that would benefit from it. A side panel fan directly over a cpu heatsink is only useful on heatsinks that blow down on the motherboard like a ThermalRight SI-128 as opposed to a tower style like the 212+. Side panel fans that blow directly on the vid cards will often times help cool them though.

Larger side panel fans that cover the majority of the side panel will normally be useful and will normally be far enough away to allow the 212+ to fit, but one would need to check the case specs to determine if the necessary 160mm of clearance required is available or not.


----------



## wooly

did a quick bit of rearranging in my case. Moved the side (blue led) case fan to the front and the extra fan I bought for the 212+ is a coolermaster blue led so I put that on the front of the cooler.



















The grill that was covering the side fan I have just taped on for now








better that than a gaping hole in the side of the case I suppose hehe


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooly;12622925*
> did a quick bit of rearranging in my case. Moved the side (blue led) case fan to the front and the extra fan I bought for the 212+ is a coolermaster blue led so I put that on the front of the cooler.
> 
> The grill that was covering the side fan I have just taped on for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> better that than a gaping hole in the side of the case I suppose hehe


Pick up some small bolts to attach the grill in a more permanent fashion, or better yet attach a filter there to help keep the inside of the case cleaner.


----------



## HSG502

Hey guys, I didn't want to start a new thread so I thought I'd just ask the people here (since you all have it I suppose).

I'm thinking of buying a friend of mine a 212+ for his birthday. He has a 1090T (at the moment running stock cooler and clocks). Will the 212+ be good enough to maybe reach 4.0GHz? or even just 3.7-3.8?

Any help is appreciated.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It should be able to get to 3.7-3.8, but no way to know for sure as not all 1090T's are even capable of reaching 4.0GHz period. If he has a decent case with good overall airflow and a reasonable ambient room temp in the 68 to 72F (20-22C) range or lower there is a good chance that it would work okay for him. I'm more of an Intel person and have no personal experience with any AMD cpus after Socket 939 so I can only go with what info I've run across in forums and I'm not finding a lot of posts about a 212+ on a 1090T to share.


----------



## HSG502

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12625419*
> It should be able to get to 3.7-3.8, but no way to know for sure as not all 1090T's are even capable of reaching 4.0GHz period. If he has a decent case with good overall airflow and a reasonable ambient room temp in the 68 to 72F (20-22C) range or lower there is a good chance that it would work okay for him. I'm more of an Intel person and have no personal experience with any AMD cpus after Socket 939 so I can only go with what info I've run across in forums and I'm not finding a lot of posts about a 212+ on a 1090T to share.


I see. Well thank you for the info!







it's greatly appreciated. To be honest, any slight overclock should be ok, it should be better than stock atleast. And I have yet to find a member here with a 1090T on a 212+ lol, I guess they all have top end coolers for a BE chip.


----------



## HAGNK

hit 3.64ghz on my 925 idle 33 load 44-45 great little cooler


----------



## drufause

Add me to the club please


----------



## Alx2331

I installed mine yesterday and so far it's about 30 degrees cooler than with the stock cooler, I just have one issue is the heatsink gonna be a little "loose" so you can twist it like a noch to the sides? Not much but just a tiny bit


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alx2331*


I installed mine yesterday and so far it's about 30 degrees cooler than with the stock cooler, I just have one issue is the heatsink gonna be a little "loose" so you can twist it like a noch to the sides? Not much but just a tiny bit










itll be a little loose til the compund hardens


----------



## wooly

yeah mine moved slightly when I was moving fans about in my case last night (+ swapping the push/pull fans about) but I wasn't too worried as I figured that, plus I put plenty on to fill the gaps between the pipes with an old blockbuster card :E


----------



## FDS

Mine wiggles when adjusting the fans too. I was concerned about poor thermal paste jobber, but my temps never go above ~45C under load, 29C idle.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Time for the weekly posting of the Hyper 212+ Guide/FAQ since the Thread Owner doesn't seem to be interested in keeping things up to date. If anyone sees any mistakes or has something to add to it please let me know.

*What makes the Hyper 212+ so desirable?*
One of the best things about the 212+ (aside from the price) is that you you don't need to buy anything extra to get excellent cooling. TheBladeMaster fan that comes with it is one of the best you can get for it. Anything that will actually cool better is louder and would only give about a 1C lower temp anyway. You can always pick up a second BladeMaster (not an R4) to run in a push/pull setup. The next step up would be High Speed Yate Loon fans, but the difference isn't worth the additional sound level as far as I'm concerned. A pair of the Medium Speed Yate Loon fans would be quieter, but even in a Push/Pull configuration wouldn't be able to provide as much cooling capacity as the single BladeMaster that comes with the 212+. The regular R4's from Coolermaster don't have as much static pressure and are louder so they aren't as good for this as the stock BladeMaster's or even the High Speed Yate's are, although they would be about as loud.

A pair of BladeMaster's running in Push/Pull compared to a single BladeMaster would probably only be about 1 to 2C difference in temps. Unless you are doing some extreme overclocking or your computer is in a very hot climate it probably isn't enough to worry about. I only do it since I am running the [email protected] SMP client on my systems 
which means they run at 100% cpu load 24/7/365. If I wasn't doing that I would only be using a single BladeMaster 
on mine.

*What fan comes with the Hyper 212+?*
This is the actual BladeMaster fan that comes with the 212+. There are other places that carry it though.

*What if my motherboard doesn't have enough PWM fan headers to run a pair of fans in PWM mode?*
This is a 12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable to allow you to run a pair of BladeMasters off of the same PWM fan header on a motherboard so they stay in sync if you use PWM. Even if your mobo does have enough headers, this is still a great way to make sure that they work together in an optimal fashion.

*Do I need to buy a different Thermal Interface Material (TIM)?*
The ThermalFusion400 TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 or IC Diamond 7. The difference between MX-2, MX-3, MX-4, IC Diamond 7, or any of the other top TIM is about 1C when properly applied. For the most part it has more to do with how one applies the TIM than it does what TIM they use. The problem with Arctic Silver is that it has such a long break in period. It takes 2 weeks for it to properly break in and give optimum results. During that time it requires several periods of the system running for app. 2 hours, then off for 2 hours per day every day for 2 weeks or it never really cures. To top that off it needs to be cleaned off and re-applied every 10 to 12 months. Having to re-apply it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that long drawn out break in process. The other TIMS I mentioned along with the CM TIM that comes with the 212+ have a break in period of less than an hour, with most being only a couple of minutes, and that is with continuous running. THAT is what makes Arctic Silver such a poor TIM. Back when Arctic Silver was first introduced it was the best that was available, but that was 10 years or more ago. In the past 5 years or so several other TIM's have easily met or exceeded it's performance with much less work involved rendering AS not worth the time or trouble to use anymore.

*How should I apply the TIM?*
The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.

*What about side panel fans with a Hyper 212+?*
The chances of being able to mount a fan in the side panel of your case with a Hyper 212+ is somewhere between slim and none. The good news is you don't really need one. At best ll that side panel fan will do if you can mount it is bounce air off of the top of the heatsink (and the sides of the fan housings) which won't have any positive affect on your cpu temps. At the worst the airflow from that side panel fan will disrupt the natural airflow in the case causing the cpu temps to rise. In some cases (puns intended) a fan in the lower side panel position blowing on the graphics cards might help cool them, but that isn't a guarantee. Most of the time all the side panel fans do is make your computer louder. You are normally better off just leaving the fans out of the side panel openings (if they exist) and allow the natural airflow to draw in cool air or expel hot air as needed. It can be worth the time to test it out though if you have a fan to mount there, but I wouldn't go out and buy one just to test with though.

*My 212+ moves after I mounted it. Is that wrong?*
It depends. If all it does is swivel a bit that is normal. If it rocks then something is wrong. You should take it out of the system, double check that the mounting bracket is attached firmly, then remount the heatsink.

*The instructions that came with the 212+ are difficult to understand. Are there any guides that do a better job of explaining how to install it?*
Coolermaster did a terrible job on the instructions, especially for AMD systems. They have a video that does a great job for Intel systems, but nothing for AMD. Luckily Hardware Canucks has a guide for AMD users that you can use. With the exception of reversing the backplate the instructions work for an Intel system as well.


----------



## wooly

typo in last paragraph "Coolermaster dis a terrible job"

also, I bought a coolermaster sickle flow which come in various led colours and look quite nice (led's are quite suttle) and are also very quiet.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wooly*


typo in last paragraph "Coolermaster dis a terrible job"

also, I bought a coolermaster sickle flow which come in various led colours and look quite nice (led's are quite suttle) and are also very quiet.


Thanks. I have fixed that.

The sickle flow fans are the standard R4 fans. They aren't nearly as quiet as the specs would lead you to believe. The db rating of 19db is with the fan running at it's lowest rpm of app 1,000rpm and a cfm of app 35-38cfm. When running at their full 2,000rpm and 70cfm the db level is around 35-36db, app the same as the BladeMaster that comes with the 212+. Unless one needs the bling of the LED's one is better off with the BladeMaster as they are about 2C cooler than the R4's with a slightly lower db level. Don't get me wrong as they are good fans, just not quite as good as the BladeMaster.


----------



## nibnab

Got mine yesterday! With some major installation frustration, mainly caused by me not looking at the instructions, it's all fitted and up and running!

First impressions? AMAZING

Idle: 30-35 with sig rig. Haven't seen it go over 37 at load

Compared to my arctic freezer 7, it's about 10 degrees cooler, maybe more.

EXCELLENT COOLER. I LUBS IT


----------



## PapaSmurf

That's good to hear. The Arctic Freezer's were excellent when they were first released as there were only single and dual core cpus which they could handle quite well. Once Quad Core (and greater) cpus came out they simply didn't have enough mass to handle them when they were overclocked. They are still a nice quiet alternative to the stock heatsinks, but with the cost of the 212+ being what it is they just aren't as financially feasible as they once were. They are easier to install though. I still have one of the 7's and a couple of the 64's that are used from dual core systems that are still functioning quite well after several years of use.


----------



## Garvani

New user, just ordered a 212, cant wait for it to arrive, mainly because the Arctic freezer 7 ive had coupled with my stock x4 955 for the last 2 days has been cooking the cpu! 45deg on idle and last night it topped 75deg while on full load playing Battlefield Bad Company 2. Tried reseating it a couple of times, reapplied thermal paste, replaced 120mm rear case fan to get more air flow, nothing really helped. So im throwing the 2 day old Arctic 7 into the bin and wait eagerly for the 212. From what ive since read over the net (as Papasmurf said) the Arctic 7's just don't cut it any more, wish i had of known that a few days ago when i first ordered it! (the Arctic freezer 7 and the coolermaster 212 are the same price here in NZ roughly $50nzd~36us)


----------



## Krusher33

You won't be disappointed. Tricky part is first time installation. Study carefully, read through this thread of what others had trouble with, and you'll be fine.

It's what I did and didn't need much help as a result.


----------



## rugox

Hey guys, I need some help. I'm trying to set up my CM 212+.
To set it up as push/pull I bought a sickleflow blue led CM fan that has 3 pin female connector. I want to connect both the stock fan and this fan together into PWM and I'm wondering what the best way to do this is.
Right now, I'm thinking a Y-cable that has (4 pin female fan, 3-pin female) into (4 pin female). Does this cable exist?


----------



## jach11

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189063


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rugox;12674891*
> Hey guys, I need some help. I'm trying to set up my CM 212+.
> To set it up as push/pull I bought a sickleflow blue led CM fan that has 3 pin female connector. I want to connect both the stock fan and this fan together into PWM and I'm wondering what the best way to do this is.
> Right now, I'm thinking a Y-cable that has (4 pin female fan, 3-pin female) into (4 pin female). Does this cable exist?


Can't be done. The R4 doesn't support PWM so you would need to either run them both at full speed or manually control them. The R4 will never run in sync with the stock BladeMaster and will more than likely cause temps to be higher instead of lower. At best you might get the same temp with both as you would with just the single BladeMaster, but with a louder system. Just run the single BladeMaster or get a second actual BladeMaster and hook it up via a PWM Splitter.

Sleeved $2.99 with free shipping
http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12bks.html

Un-Sleeved $2.49 with free shipping
http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12.html


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jach11;12674914*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812189063


be sure to cut one of the yellow wires so the rpm sensors dont interfere with each other


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;12675900*
> be sure to cut one of the yellow wires so the rpm sensors dont interfere with each other


Not necessary if you are using an actual PWM Y-Adapter. Just plug them into the Y Adapter.


----------



## ZoomThruPoom

Can I join?? I slapped a R4 blue led on mine once for push pull, but temps stayed the same and the noise I didn't like. Would another Blademaster fan like the original work out better??


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZoomThruPoom;12676107*
> Can I join?? I slapped a R4 blue led on mine once for push pull, but temps stayed the same and the noise I didn't like. Would another Blademaster fan like the original work out better??


As I have stated time and time again if you want to do a Push/Pull with the stock BladeMaster you absolutely MUST use another BladeMaster otherwise you are just wasting your time. I just posted that information a few posts back.


----------



## rugox

Damn that sucks. I thought if I just slap on any fan that runs with the same RPM, push pull would work. What about two of the fans I mentioned in push pull not including the blademaster? Is it a case of blademasters having the most effective air flow or just the two fans have to be equal?


----------



## PapaSmurf

It has more to do with CFM and Static Pressure than RPMs. And a pair of R4's (or sickle flows as they are known in some places) would be at least 1 to 2C HOTTER than a single BladeMaster. All of this has been covered time and time and time again in this thread. Either get a second BladeMaster or just run the one. The R4's are designed to be used as CASE fans, not heatsink/radiator fans.


----------



## rugox

I see, thanks for the info. I guess I'll just use the R4 as my case fan for now and use the stock blademaster for the time being on the 212. Are there any other combination of fans that work best with this cooler though? I want some fans that are exotic (ie. leds) not just plain ol looking fans.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The High Speed Yate Loons would be the only LED fans I would use on one of them.


----------



## joelmartinez

The part about not installing side-panel fans is only for if you have a small case my HAF 922 has enough room for a 120x38mm side fan (i currently have a 120x25mm fan)


----------



## PapaSmurf

Just because there is room for one doesn't mean that it will do anything useful if it's directly over a Tower style heatsink like the 212+.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *joelmartinez*


The part about not installing side-panel fans is only for if you have a small case my HAF 922 has enough room for a 120x38mm side fan (i currently have a 120x25mm fan)


Turn that fan off and let us know the results.

I'm pretty sure I remember someone already done that and found no difference.


----------



## Horsemama1956

Anyone have an i3 with a 212+, or have an idea how it would do at 4GHz+? The stock cooler can do 4 so I'm hoping it's going to work out nicely. I think I'm going to return the 2500k and see what Intel has out when Bulldozer comes out.


----------



## oorenotsoo

Hey guys, I recently upgraded my rig and got a 212+. So far it's great. It was my first heatsink install and I thought it was simple enough. I have a Q8300 and went from stock cooler in bland 'ol Acer case, to this cooler in the Tempest Evo. At stock clocks, my old idle temp was 38 and now I'm at 28, so I'm ecstatic. I know I owe part of that to the case too.

I do have one question though. It came with some dampening pads and mentioned them in the instructions, but I have no clue where to put them. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?


----------



## Horsemama1956

I stuck them on the piece of plastic beneath the screw on the fan bracket. It's where they were on the fan that came with the cooler. Just don't cover the screw incase you replace the fan or something as you'll not be able to re-use them.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horsemama1956;12693352*
> Anyone have an i3 with a 212+, or have an idea how it would do at 4GHz+? The stock cooler can do 4 so I'm hoping it's going to work out nicely. I think I'm going to return the 2500k and see what Intel has out when Bulldozer comes out.


It will work out fine on an i3. It mainly runs into a problem with overclocking cpus that have MORE than 4 cores or threads.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oorenotsoo;12693419*
> Hey guys, I recently upgraded my rig and got a 212+. So far it's great. It was my first heatsink install and I thought it was simple enough. I have a Q8300 and went from stock cooler in bland 'ol Acer case, to this cooler in the Tempest Evo. At stock clocks, my old idle temp was 38 and now I'm at 28, so I'm ecstatic. I know I owe part of that to the case too.
> 
> I do have one question though. It came with some dampening pads and mentioned them in the instructions, but I have no clue where to put them. Can anyone shed some light on this for me?


You only use the extra dampening pads if you add a SECOND fan in a Push/Pull setup. Take off the first fan to see where they placed them on it.


----------



## oorenotsoo

thanks for the info guys!


----------



## joelmartinez

The side fans only really affect my GPU temps my CPU temps remain the same with the fans on or off.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelmartinez;12698757*
> The side fans only really affect my GPU temps my CPU temps remain the same with the fans on or off.


That's the normal result.


----------



## RallyMaster

Wow, I didn't realize my CM212+ setup was on the first post of this thread. Very nice!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RallyMaster;12698813*
> Wow, I didn't realize my CM212+ setup was on the first post of this thread. Very nice!


What kind of temps are you getting with the 2 Yate SL's and what speed are you running that Q9550 at?


----------



## nibnab

I installed a PCI exhaust fan and one side exhaust fan mainly for my 6970 PCS+.

I have noticed a significant decrease in CPU temps.

If you have a graphics card that doesn't blow air out the back, you will really benefit from a PCI blower fan.


----------



## joelmartinez

Currently doing cooling experimentation but yes slightly negative air-pressure does seem to be best for temps


----------



## Fooliobass

My 212+ was only my second after market cooler after a rosewill rcx-z1 that went on an old am2 board that finally killed its original heat sync.

My 212+ is on a 740 and running awsome. this sucker is large, but fit in my sig case once i moved the fan from the window to out the back exhaust fan. I love this thing. It scared me the first time I took it out of the box... huge. It took 2 people to install it but worth it.

To all those with a question, you could spend more, but why, this will be just fine until you go to water... and who wants water next to a computer?

It's awesome. I am thinking of push/pull, but why? 1 degree doesnt mean much to me... but I do have the fan sitting in my newegg price watch and wish list. Maybe one day, but until then... I am happy.


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

y mine name still not there?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pentium4 531 overclocker;12727924*
> y mine name still not there?


That's because the person running the club hasn't bothered to update anything since Jan 16th. He's really dropping the ball. It really looks like he was a bad choice to take over the club from the previous owner who wasn't keeping it updated either. I wouldn't hold your breath about being added. It probably won't happen.


----------



## Alx2331

Can I ask you guys a question? What is average temperature on your 212+? Do you use two fans or one and what do think about the cooler besides the temp and fans?


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alx2331;12733884*
> Can I ask you guys a question? What is average temperature on your 212+? Do you use two fans or one and what do think about the cooler besides the temp and fans?


I peaked at 55C last night while running IntelBurnTest on very high. Times ran: x5

I use a single fan push straight to my 120mm exhaust fan.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alx2331;12733884*
> Can I ask you guys a question? What is average temperature on your 212+? Do you use two fans or one and what do think about the cooler besides the temp and fans?


That's actually three questions.

Average temps would vary depending on the CPU it's on, if it's overclocked or not, case flow, and motherboard sensers. Idle temps (which are basically meaningless) can vary from 2 to 3C above ambient room temp to 40C (or possibly even more) on a highly overclocked Quad or 6 core cpu. Full load temps can vary from the low 40C range to close to 90C on a heavily OC'd 4 or 6 core with hyperthreading.

I am using two fans on mine as I am heavily OC'd and running Folding @ Home SMP Client on both of my rigs so they run at 100% load 24/7/365. If I wasn't folding like that I would probably only use the single BladeMaster that it comes with.

It's the best BUDGET heatsink/fan on the market. It will be more than enough for that AMD Quad you have there with the stock fan even overclocked. To do better you would have to spend 2 to 3 times as much or more.


----------



## Bigpapa42

The 212 Plus is part of my new build. I'm just waiting on everything to arrive. The cooler is going on an i5-2500K that I'd like to overclock a bit. The case is a Cooler Master HAF X, which has both top and rear exhaust fans. I was going to turn the cooler vertical, so the fan was pushing air directly out the top, but I'm not sure if this is going to be more efficient than toward the back. Any suggestions?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Push it out the back. If you try to push it out the top you will be drawing hot air from the Graphics Cards which will more than likely raise temps more than you would by moving front to back and drawing air from the ram. Out the top would also reduce airflow over the ram.


----------



## Bigpapa42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12734097*
> Push it out the back. If you try to push it out the top you will be drawing hot air from the Graphics Cards which will more than likely raise temps more than you would by moving front to back and drawing air from the ram. Out the top would also reduce airflow over the ram.


Awesome. I was thinking of doing it sideways... but then figured I probably don't know better than the CM engineers. Thanks.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The only time to mount it blowing up is on the few poorly designed AMD motherboards where it can't be mounted any other way. There aren't any Intel systems that have that problem.


----------



## joelmartinez

there are some instances where south/north beats east/west try both


----------



## Eagna

I'm absolutely loving my 212 plus, she really is a beast









It dropped my idle temps by about 8deg celcius and load temps by about 20 deg celcius


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagna;12737985*
> I'm absolutely loving my 212 plus, she really is a beast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It dropped my idle temps by about 8deg celcius and load temps by about 20 deg celcius


Yay for another convertee.


----------



## Alx2331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12734033*
> That's actually three questions.
> 
> Average temps would vary depending on the CPU it's on, if it's overclocked or not, case flow, and motherboard sensers. Idle temps (which are basically meaningless) can vary from 2 to 3C above ambient room temp to 40C (or possibly even more) on a highly overclocked Quad or 6 core cpu. Full load temps can vary from the low 40C range to close to 90C on a heavily OC'd 4 or 6 core with hyperthreading.
> 
> I am using two fans on mine as I am heavily OC'd and running Folding @ Home SMP Client on both of my rigs so they run at 100% load 24/7/365. If I wasn't folding like that I would probably only use the single BladeMaster that it comes with.
> 
> It's the best BUDGET heatsink/fan on the market. It will be more than enough for that AMD Quad you have there with the stock fan even overclocked. To do better you would have to spend 2 to 3 times as much or more.


Well I allready have one and i peak about 40c in 3 hours in prime95 on 3,4GHz with my single fan but im thinking about buying one of Be Quiet's Silentwing fans to have on the other side of it and see if it does a diffrence.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alx2331;12740977*
> Well I allready have one and i peak about 40c in 3 hours in prime95 on 3,4GHz with my single fan but im thinking about buying one of Be Quiet's Silentwing fans to have on the other side of it and see if it does a diffrence.


Y'all going to drive PapaSmurf insane! Don't mismatch the fans! Defeats the purpose.


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Sign me up plz.


----------



## fabrizziop

I'm in the club!

I love this cooler, lowered my load temps 15Â°C and it isn't audible at all in my room!


























I applied TIM as benchmarkreviews states, lines between the heatpipes.


----------



## Citra

Only problem I don't like about the 212+ is that I touched the warranty sticker on the wire and it broke. Still worth every dollar though.


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fabrizziop*


I'm in the club!

I love this cooler, lowered my load temps 15Â°C and it isn't audible at all in my room!


























I applied TIM as benchmarkreviews states, lines between the heatpipes.


Sexy mobo.


----------



## kzone75

Been having the Hyper 212+ for a month and a half now. Didn't think the temps would change much from the AC Freezer 64 pro. Load temps dropped about 10C plus another two degrees or three when adding another fan. Sadly it's kinda difficult to get CM fans here. Had to go with a Thermaltake (for now).







A few pics.. Cable management pending..


----------



## Kikosiko

HIya, im getting this tomorrrow hopefully, i have a feeling i will need some help lol Just getting the hang of custom PCs anywho, but installation seems a bit tricky


----------



## Brewster

Got this for my Phenom II x4 955 BE. Its a little quieter than stock, but the only real (biggish) issue is that one of the nuts that should hold the bracket at the back of the mobo had too thin a whole for the corresponding screw(s).

Luckily it seems to be held in place with three of them, but would prefer to have the fourth in place so i put a second fan on it. Any idea where you can get hold of one of those (or is this unlikely)?


----------



## ffejrxx

contact coolermaster
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/livehelp.php
they should send another nut for it

or use a different nut


----------



## Brewster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;12745955*
> contact coolermaster
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/livehelp.php
> they should send another nut for it
> 
> or use a different nut


Cheers









I live in the UK so not sure if they would do that, would they.

Edit: thanks, but just found the netherlands site that will ship to the UK. About £5 for the spare retention bracket set, but will be quicker. Thanks for you help though


----------



## nawon72

What kind of overclocks could i get with a HAF 922, i7 2600K, ASUS P8P67 Pro, and the CM Hyper 212+? And what 24/7 overclocks could i get? It's either the 212+ or the NH-D14, and the temps for the above setup will also help me decide. Thanks in advance!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Brewster*


Cheers









I live in the UK so not sure if they would do that, would they.

Edit: thanks, but just found the netherlands site that will ship to the UK. About Â£5 for the spare retention bracket set, but will be quicker. Thanks for you help though


If the one is defective they should send you the replacement for free. You shouldn't have to pay anything.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


What kind of overclocks could i get with a HAF 922, i7 2600K, ASUS P8P67 Pro, and the CM Hyper 212+? And what 24/7 overclocks could i get? It's either the 212+ or the NH-D14, and the temps for the above setup will also help me decide. Thanks in advance!


Impossible to know. Not all 2600K's will OC the same on the same mobo, with the same cooler, and the same ambient room temp. You'll more than likely be able to OC higher with the NH-D14, but no way to know how much more. It would also depend on the ram and the PSU you use.

I'm able to run my Q9550 at 4.25 completely stable with a 212+ so that should give you some idea of it's capabilities. I wouldn't be surprised if you can get 4.2 to 4.5 out of a 2600K with one.


----------



## marky_11

been using it for a month.
im so satisfied =)


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Impossible to know. Not all 2600K's will OC the same on the same mobo, with the same cooler, and the same ambient room temp. You'll more than likely be able to OC higher with the NH-D14, but no way to know how much more. It would also depend on the ram and the PSU you use.
> 
> I'm able to run my Q9550 at 4.25 completely stable with a 212+ so that should give you some idea of it's capabilities. I wouldn't be surprised if you can get 4.2 to 4.5 out of a 2600K with one.


Sorry for being a noob, but the example you said above doesn't really tell me much. All i really want to know is if i can get at least 4.0Ghz 24/7 overclock with the Hyper 212+. And how would the RAM and PSU affect the overclock? I have an idea of how the PSU effects it(ripples). And could i use a side panel fan with the HAF 922 the 212+?


----------



## PapaSmurf

There is no way for us to know if any specific 2600K will reach 4.0GHz at all (or that any cpu will OC to any specific speed) , let alone with a specific heatsink. There are just too many variables. I've seen a couple of them at 4.4 - 4.5 using an NH-D14 without resorting to excessive vcore. I've also seen a couple that could barely hit 4gig under a high end Water Cooling System with a LOT of vcore thrown at them. But like I said, there is a good chance that you could get 4.2 to 4.4 out of it, but I don't guarantee it, nor do I guarantee it with the NH-D14 either.

Ram plays a part in that if you use low quality or slow ram it can inhibit your OC. A cheap PSU might not be able to produce enough GOOD CLEAN power limiting your overclock.

You could probably use a side panel fan in the lower position over the video cards, but I seriously doubt you could in the upper spot, and you wouldn't want or need to. All a side panel fan in the upper position would do is bounce air off of the top of the heatsink anyway so it wouldn't help temps and might disrupt the airflow enough to raise temps.


----------



## Bigpapa42

So the recommend method for applying the thermal compound is a thin line on the separator between the heat pipes, as shown in the link provided a few pages back. However, the example shown had three pipes so two separators. The Hyper 212 has four popes so three separators. Would it then be best to use three small lines of thermal or still only two?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes, as it states in the the post that contains the link.


----------



## RushMore1205

add me to the club, this was the best $30 i have ever spend on the cooler, i used to only buy zalman cpu coolers, but now i gotta say this is a great price







erfomance ratio.


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205;12750540*
> add me to the club, this was the best $30 i have ever spend on the cooler, i used to only buy zalman cpu coolers, but now i gotta say this is a great priceerfomance ratio.


omg that is a killer box. are there more pics or specs to it?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


add me to the club, this was the best $30 i have ever spend on the cooler, i used to only buy zalman cpu coolers, but now i gotta say this is a great price







erfomance ratio.


Don't hold your breath. There is no one to update it anymore. The new owner was only around for a couple of weeks then abandoned it like the last one did.

Nice rig though. And I agree that it's a great heatsink/fan combo.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*


add me to the club, this was the best $30 i have ever spend on the cooler, i used to only buy zalman cpu coolers, but now i gotta say this is a great price







erfomance ratio.


Cool rig bro.


----------



## Oki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;12750304*
> Sorry for being a noob, but the example you said above doesn't really tell me much. All i really want to know is if i can get at least 4.0Ghz 24/7 overclock with the Hyper 212+. And how would the RAM and PSU affect the overclock? I have an idea of how the PSU effects it(ripples). And could i use a side panel fan with the HAF 922 the 212+?


Just to add my 2 cents, AFAIK every 2600k will reach 4.4 ghz as long as you have a proper cooling solution (and hyper 212 is), a good motherboard for overclocking and a power supply of sufficient quality. Many go beyond the 5 ghz mark with extreme cooling solution ! hwbot.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16541

Edit : A good thread from Juan Jose from ASUS on this http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1578110


----------



## bananapeal

Oh mai gosh I just installed one of these... First performance cooler I've had, was quite a shock to realize that you don't just lob off the stock heat sink and put a new one on, gotta install a back plate, mount thingy... etc.

But. My temps are now nice and low! 15 C instead of 30 at idle, 20 C instead of 60-90+ at load! (factory settings).

Let's see what happens when I bump the multipliers up!


----------



## spikexp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bananapeal;12757725*
> But. My temps are now nice and low! 15 C


Wow, your room must be cold.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bananapeal;12757725*
> Oh mai gosh I just installed one of these... First performance cooler I've had, was quite a shock to realize that you don't just lob off the stock heat sink and put a new one on, gotta install a back plate, mount thingy... etc.
> 
> But. My temps are now nice and low! 15 C instead of 30 at idle, 20 C instead of 60-90+ at load! (factory settings).
> 
> Let's see what happens when I bump the multipliers up!


15C at idle and 20C under load? Sorry, but your sensors are either screwed up or you need to re-calibrate your monitoring software. No way those temps are accurate.


----------



## nawon72

For my $2000 build, should i got with the NH-D14 or the CM Hyper 212+? Assume that i get a very good PSU. And has anyone noticed any reduce cooling when the Hyper 212+ twisted/moved a bit? Or are the cooling capabilities unaffected by the mounting system.


----------



## Oki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;12758656*
> For my $2000 build, should i got with the NH-D14 or the CM Hyper 212+? Assume that i get a very good PSU. And has anyone noticed any reduce cooling when the Hyper 212+ twisted/moved a bit? Or are the cooling capabilities unaffected by the mounting system.


The Noctua is the best performer. Take this one if you don't care about the price. Comparaison : http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/819568-review-noctua-nh-d14-vs-coolermaster.html


----------



## joelmartinez

NH-D14, I love my 212+ but if you got that kinda money go fo it


----------



## bananapeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12757902*
> 15C at idle and 20C under load? Sorry, but your sensors are either screwed up or you need to re-calibrate your monitoring software. No way those temps are accurate.


Sorry. Had side off. Also, 70% load while doing folding-GPU. ... ambient's 18-20 or so. so my core reading of 15 shouldn't be ok right now. ...gr.

I've attached an at-load temp picture, this is after 40min of prime95. It shows a 29C core temp and the others in the 40s.

ok by checking with the bios,
temp0 is case: 42C idle
temp1 is cpu: 36C at idle
temp2 is ??? : 42C.

why would the core temps be so low then?

images: hot ~ at load
cold ~ 10 mins after load
precool~ before CM-212 install

Thanks!

My dumb ass had ACC on. Apparently that also turns your sensors off or at least turns them down. 19C core now with odd fluctuations to 16.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oki;12759037*
> The Noctua is the best performer. Take this one if you don't care about the price. Comparaison : http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/819568-review-noctua-nh-d14-vs-coolermaster.html


Interesting read. That's about what I would expect from those two.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bananapeal;12759261*
> Sorry. Had side off. Also, 70% load while doing folding-GPU. ... ambient's 18-20 or so. so my core reading of 15 shouldn't be ok right now. ...gr.
> 
> I've attached an at-load temp picture, this is after 40min of prime95. It shows a 29C core temp and the others in the 40s.
> 
> ok by checking with the bios,
> temp0 is case: 42C idle
> temp1 is cpu: 36C at idle
> temp2 is ??? : 42C.
> 
> why would the core temps be so low then?
> 
> images: hot ~ at load
> cold ~ 10 mins after load
> precool~ before CM-212 install
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> My dumb ass had ACC on. Apparently that also turns your sensors off or at least turns them down. 19C core now with odd fluctuations to 16.


It's physically impossible for the cpu temps to be at or below ambient room temps. At the bare minimum they would be at least 3 to 5 C above ambient room temp at idle, but sensors aren't always reliable that low. What matters is your load temps. Fire up something like Prime95, HyperPi, SuperPi, etc. and see what the temps climb to. If they don't go at least 10C over ambient room temps then either the sensors are borked or your software isn't calibrated correctly. Get at least 3 different programs to compare the readouts to see if they all agree within a degree or os. CoreTemp, RealTemp, SpeedFan, and the software that comes with the motherboard are all good to use for this. I'm not that impressed with HWMonitors ability to provide accurate temp readings.


----------



## spikexp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bananapeal*


My dumb ass had ACC on. Apparently that also turns your sensors off or at least turns them down. 19C core now with odd fluctuations to 16.


Well, I don't know for old phenom, but phenom II and Athlon II offer calculated core temps, and are not good. You must check CPU temps for real temp sensor.

For example, my core temps are idling at 0C









It's not a problem with the program, it's really the CPU. 
On full load, core temps tend to be 10C lower than CPU temp.


----------



## Kikosiko

I'm about to put this on , can someone give clearer instructions about the TIM method? I've read what it says at the first post, but that seems vague to me, can someone help? cheers


----------



## Quatrix

I'm also going to try this in the next couple of hours. From what I've read, you should first fill in the gaps between the silver-colored areas of the base and the copper pipes and level it out. Everyone seems to have their own opinions on the rest. I'm going to put a vertical line on the center silver area and dots on the two adjacent silver areas.


----------



## PapaSmurf

*What makes the Hyper 212+ so desirable?*
One of the best things about the 212+ (aside from the price) is that you you don't need to buy anything extra to get excellent cooling. TheBladeMaster fan that comes with it is one of the best you can get for it. Anything that will actually cool better is louder and would only give about a 1C lower temp anyway. You can always pick up a second BladeMaster (not an R4) to run in a push/pull setup. The next step up would be High Speed Yate Loon fans, but the difference isn't worth the additional sound level as far as I'm concerned. A pair of the Medium Speed Yate Loon fans would be quieter, but even in a Push/Pull configuration wouldn't be able to provide as much cooling capacity as the single BladeMaster that comes with the 212+. The regular R4's from Coolermaster don't have as much static pressure and are louder so they aren't as good for this as the stock BladeMaster's or even the High Speed Yate's are, although they would be about as loud. Please note that when used on heatsinks and radiators Static Pressure is as important as CFMs as it's the pressure that forces the air through the fins. CFMs with low pressure like the standard R4's are okay when used as case fans, but they come up short on heatsinks.

CM R4 has 1.3mm H20 rating of static pressure.
CM Blade Master has a 3.9mmH20 rating of static pressure.
YL High Speed has 2.9mm H20 rating of static pressure.

A pair of BladeMaster's running in Push/Pull compared to a single BladeMaster would probably only be about 1 to 2C difference in temps. Unless you are doing some extreme overclocking or your computer is in a very hot climate it probably isn't enough to worry about. I only do it since I am running the [email protected] SMP client on my systems
which means they run at 100% cpu load 24/7/365. If I wasn't doing that I would only be using a single BladeMaster
on mine.

*What fan comes with the Hyper 212+?*
This is the actual BladeMaster fan that comes with the 212+. There are other places that carry it though.

*What if my motherboard doesn't have enough PWM fan headers to run a pair of fans in PWM mode?*
This is a 12" 4-Pin PWM Fan Y-Adapter Power Cable to allow you to run a pair of BladeMasters off of the same PWM fan header on a motherboard so they stay in sync if you use PWM. Even if your mobo does have enough headers, this is still a great way to make sure that they work together in an optimal fashion.

*Do I need to buy a different Thermal Interface Material (TIM)?*
The ThermalFusion400 TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 or IC Diamond 7 or 24. The difference between MX-2, MX-3, MX-4, IC Diamond 7 or 24, or any of the other top TIM is about 1C when properly applied. For the most part it has more to do with how one applies the TIM than it does what TIM they use. The problem with Arctic Silver is that it has such a long break in period. It takes 2 weeks for it to properly break in and give optimum results. During that time it requires several periods of the system running for app. 2 hours, then off for 2 hours per day every day for 2 weeks or it never really cures. To top that off it needs to be cleaned off and re-applied every 10 to 12 months. Having to re-apply it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that long drawn out break in process. The other TIMS I mentioned along with the CM TIM that comes with the 212+ have a break in period of less than an hour, with most being only a couple of minutes, and that is with continuous running. THAT is what makes Arctic Silver such a poor TIM. Back when Arctic Silver was first introduced it was the best that was available, but that was 10 years or more ago. In the past 5 years or so several other TIM's have easily met or exceeded it's performance with much less work involved rendering AS not worth the time or trouble to use anymore.

*How should I apply the TIM?*
The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. Ap42 posted a good guide for this found [THREAD="[URL=http://www.overclock.net/12295518-post1058.html]http://www.overclock.net/12295518-post1058.html"]here[/URL] in this very thread[/THREAD]. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.

*What about side panel fans with a Hyper 212+?*
The chances of being able to mount a fan in the side panel of your case with a Hyper 212+ is somewhere between slim and none. The good news is you don't really need one. At best ll that side panel fan will do if you can mount it is bounce air off of the top of the heatsink (and the sides of the fan housings) which won't have any positive affect on your cpu temps. At the worst the airflow from that side panel fan will disrupt the natural airflow in the case causing the cpu temps to rise. In some cases (puns intended) a fan in the lower side panel position blowing on the graphics cards might help cool them, but that isn't a guarantee. Most of the time all the side panel fans do is make your computer louder. You are normally better off just leaving the fans out of the side panel openings (if they exist) and allow the natural airflow to draw in cool air or expel hot air as needed. It can be worth the time to test it out though if you have a fan to mount there, but I wouldn't go out and buy one just to test with though.

*My 212+ moves after I mounted it. Is that wrong?*
It depends. If all it does is swivel a bit that is normal. If it rocks then something is wrong. You should take it out of the system, double check that the mounting bracket is attached firmly, then remount the heatsink.

*The instructions that came with the 212+ are difficult to understand. Are there any guides that do a better job of explaining how to install it?*
Coolermaster did a terrible job on the instructions, especially for AMD systems. They have a video that does a great job for Intel systems, but nothing for AMD. Luckily Hardware Canucks has a guide for AMD users that you can use. With the exception of reversing the backplate the instructions work for an Intel system as well.





http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSq_xbxsm7Q&feature=player_embedded[/ame[/URL]]

*How does the 212+ stack up against a high end air cooler like a Noctua NH-D14, ThermalRight Venomous -X, Megahalems, etc.*
The 212+ is one of, if not the best bang for your buck cpu air coolers available, often available for $20 to $25. The NH-D14 and other high end cpu air coolers run $60 to $80 and up. While they will cool better, it won't be worth it to some people. Baldy did a comparison of a 212+ to a NH-D14. That should give you some idea on how much additional cooling you would get by spending 2 to 3 times as much money. If you need the absolute best air cooling solution and have the funds to do so then by all means go with one of the top units like the NH-D14. But for a $20 to $25 outlay you simply can NOT beat a 212+ as there is absolutely nothing that works as well for that kind of money.


----------



## Kikosiko

ok wooh, i managed to put it after sum trying :/, one question, i'v got another fan that i want to put, which directions should i put both in, im guessing the one at the back should be exhaust, so out... what about the other side fan? the one towards the RAM.. thanks


----------



## LemonMeringueTy

If somebody could post a picture of what the TIM should look like when applied, that would be great. And not the picture from the benchmarkreviews site, I mean a picture of the 212+ itself.


----------



## snoogins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kikosiko;12769080*
> ok wooh, i managed to put it after sum trying :/, one question, i'v got another fan that i want to put, which directions should i put both in, im guessing the one at the back should be exhaust, so out... what about the other side fan? the one towards the RAM.. thanks


If your case is like most, intake in front exhaust out back, then you should setup your fans to work with the flow.


----------



## anti bones

Edit: Posted twice.


----------



## anti bones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12768721*
> *Do I need to buy a different Thermal Interface Material (TIM)?*
> The ThermalFusion400 TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ is excellent as well. It's better than anything Arctic Silver makes and within 1C of Arctic Cooling MX2 or MX3 or IC Diamond 7 or 24. The difference between MX-2, MX-3, MX-4, IC Diamond 7 or 24, or any of the other top TIM is about 1C when properly applied. For the most part it has more to do with how one applies the TIM than it does what TIM they use. The problem with Arctic Silver is that it has such a long break in period. It takes 2 weeks for it to properly break in and give optimum results. During that time it requires several periods of the system running for app. 2 hours, then off for 2 hours per day every day for 2 weeks or it never really cures. To top that off it needs to be cleaned off and re-applied every 10 to 12 months. Having to re-apply it wouldn't be so bad if it didn't have that long drawn out break in process. The other TIMS I mentioned along with the CM TIM that comes with the 212+ have a break in period of less than an hour, with most being only a couple of minutes, and that is with continuous running. THAT is what makes Arctic Silver such a poor TIM. Back when Arctic Silver was first introduced it was the best that was available, but that was 10 years or more ago. In the past 5 years or so several other TIM's have easily met or exceeded it's performance with much less work involved rendering AS not worth the time or trouble to use anymore.
> 
> *How should I apply the TIM?*
> The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.
> 
> That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


Thanks for that, I have been looking for information on the included TIM for ages. +Rep


----------



## ap42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LemonMeringueTy;12769127*
> If somebody could post a picture of what the TIM should look like when applied, that would be great. And not the picture from the benchmarkreviews site, I mean a picture of the 212+ itself.


Here's how I did mine, following suggestions in this thread.


----------



## Kikosiko

BTW Those metal clips for the fan are pure evil!! wth, why are they sooo anoying, after assembling it all inside the case, this fricking thing is gona make me disassemble everything now!! seriously, its nt working


----------



## Kikosiko

omg...eventually managed to do it, how long should i run prime95 for, and should i only check temperatures ,and do i check core or cpu temperatures? cheers


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ap42;12769718*
> Here's how I did mine, following suggestions in this thread.


You must have used the PermaLink for that. Unfortunately that only works for people who have the default post per page setting. Anyone who changes it will get redirected right back to end of the thread. You should ALWAYS use the post number link on OCN for that reason. The post number link is directly to the left of the permalink.

http://www.overclock.net/12295518-post1058.html

That is the best shot/guide I've yet seen on this. Going to change my FAQ to reflect that.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kikosiko*


BTW Those metal clips for the fan are pure evil!! wth, why are they sooo anoying, after assembling it all inside the case, this fricking thing is gona make me disassemble everything now!! seriously, its nt working










They changed the fan mounting clips in the newer ones. They replaced the metal clips with larger plastic brackets that are much easier to use. I feel sorry for anyone who get's stuck with the metal ones.


----------



## Quatrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LemonMeringueTy*


If somebody could post a picture of what the TIM should look like when applied, that would be great. And not the picture from the benchmarkreviews site, I mean a picture of the 212+ itself.


You don't want to see mine. It's easier said than done. Filling the gaps cleanly is difficult. Wiping off the excess left paste all over. Then my vertical line + two dots turned into more of a goopy cross. My 2600K (with Arctic Silver 5) is running at around 46 C on the BIOS setup screen.

By the way, got the plastic fan brackets here, very easy to snap on and off.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quatrix*


You don't want to see mine. It's easier said than done. Filling the gaps cleanly is difficult. Wiping off the excess left paste all over. Then my vertical line + two dots turned into more of a goopy cross. My 2600K (with Arctic Silver 5) is running at around 46 C on the BIOS setup screen.

By the way, got the plastic fan brackets here, very easy to snap on and off.


I did mine like that and it came out like a work of art!









My Q6600 temps on average (Hyper 212 plus P/P) is 27-28 degrees C idle and mid to upper 40's C Load.

It took me about 10 minutes to work it in and get a thin film elsewhere - just perfect!


----------



## Kikosiko

The temps that i got weren't that big of an improvement, and thats with 2 fans on the cooler :/.. If i have to point a weakness in my method i'd say that with the thermal compound it was only a thin layer on top of whole thng, with a few gaps (not as easy to filll as i thought) and i had to move it about when it was on cpu a fair bit , before it was properly set... If i do it again, and put as much TC as that pic a few posts above me would that basically improve results? i really cba to do this process again unless it will drastically improve temps... thanks


----------



## Bigpapa42

Okay, so I'm in the process of mounting the cooler. I have the cooler installed and the scissor clip on and screwed down... but it doesn't look like the cooler is absolutely centered on the chip. Its not far off, but its the normal? Should I be reseating the cooler?


----------



## lostgryphon

This cooler was cheap and, from what I've seen in my own system, is definitely quite effective for the price.

I had to replace the fan that came with the unit because of the loud...and I mean loud...rattling sound it made, regardless of how it was seated on the heatsink. The sound only died off if I dropped the fan speed down to 50% or so (1200 RPM). Luckily, I'd already bought and been using a second side case fan (Xigmatek Crystal Series) so I just mounted that with the brackets and It's dead silent at 1550 RPM. This came at the tail end of a 6-9 hour (I genuinely can't remember which) building time (What? It was my first one and I'm slow.) where in I used Arctic Silver in a close-to-pea sized glop that must have gone everywhere as I struggled to seat the 212+.

My temps have concerned me somewhat, but looking around has allayed my fears, at least a little. My [email protected] is currently running at 38-44c Idle in a 24c room. Load peaks at 65c with prime 95.

Anything to worry about here? I'm already considering reseating the 212+ with CM's TIM, but...well, basically just "Ugh."


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostgryphon;12777458*
> This cooler was cheap and, from what I've seen in my own system, is definitely quite effective for the price.
> 
> I had to replace the fan that came with the unit because of the loud...and I mean loud...rattling sound it made, regardless of how it was seated on the heatsink. The sound only died off if I dropped the fan speed down to 50% or so (1200 RPM). Luckily, I'd already bought and been using a second side case fan (Xigmatek Crystal Series) so I just mounted that with the brackets and It's dead silent at 1550 RPM. This came at the tail end of a 6-9 hour (I genuinely can't remember which) building time (What? It was my first one and I'm slow.) where in I used Arctic Silver in a close-to-pea sized glop that must have gone everywhere as I struggled to seat the 212+.
> 
> My temps have concerned me somewhat, but looking around has allayed my fears, at least a little. My [email protected] is currently running at 38-44c Idle in a 24c room. Load peaks at 65c with prime 95.
> 
> Anything to worry about here? I'm already considering reseating the 212+ with CM's TIM, but...well, basically just "Ugh."


Defective fan? Might want to contact CM about it. Mine has been at full speed and not make any noise like you're describing.

Any coolers with touching heatsinks should have lines of TIM in between the heatpipes, no pea drops.

Pea drops would be used for flat surface type heatsinks.


----------



## lostgryphon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;12777573*
> Defective fan? Might want to contact CM about it. Mine has been at full speed and not make any noise like you're describing.
> 
> Any coolers with touching heatsinks should have lines of TIM in between the heatpipes, no pea drops.
> 
> Pea drops would be used for flat surface type heatsinks.


Hm. I'll have to throw CM an e-mail or something about it.

And I suppose I'll reseat it some time soon using that application method. Any particular reason that lines in between the heat pipes cool better? And are my temps high? I thought past 70-75c was about the point you should start becoming concerned.


----------



## Quatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quatrix;12771133*
> You don't want to see mine. ... My 2600K (with Arctic Silver 5) is running at around 46 C on the BIOS setup screen.


Ran Prime95 for a few minutes. Core temperature ranges were 28 - 57, 29 - 63, 33 - 64, and 30 - 60. Ambient is 80 F (South Florida, bleh), and the motherboard is sitting out in the open without a case.


----------



## Quatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862;12771673*
> I did mine like that and it came out like a work of art!


I suspect that the photos of perfect-looking paste applications are staged or altered like fast food ads.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lostgryphon;12778022*
> Hm. I'll have to throw CM an e-mail or something about it.
> 
> And I suppose I'll reseat it some time soon using that application method. Any particular reason that lines in between the heat pipes cool better? And are my temps high? I thought past 70-75c was about the point you should start becoming concerned.


A quote from PapaSmurf:
Quote:


> How should I apply the TIM?
> The Hyper 212+ is a Heatpipe Direct Contact so the two or three line method is normally the best way to go. It depends on the number of heatpipes as to how many lines is required, but the 212+ has 4. See the bottom method on this guide. The single drop or line of TIM in the middle rarely works on them.
> 
> That said, I did some experimenting with my Hyper 212+'s and am having my best results using a credit card to cram a bit into the crevices then spreading a light coat over the entire surface of the heatsink base and not putting any directly on the cpu's IHS. Cramming some into the crevices between the heat pipes and the heatsink base surface is the key though. If you don't you tend to get air bubbles that prevent optimal heat transfer.


The idea is that your getting in the crevices. Doing just a pea drop it's probably not spreading across all heat pipes. Just think of TIM as an application to get the CPU to be 100% in contact with the heatsink.


----------



## ap42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12770814*
> You must have used the PermaLink for that. Unfortunately that only works for people who have the default post per page setting. Anyone who changes it will get redirected right back to end of the thread. You should ALWAYS use the post number link on OCN for that reason. The post number link is directly to the left of the permalink.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/12295518-post1058.html
> 
> That is the best shot/guide I've yet seen on this. Going to change my FAQ to reflect that.


Yes, I used the permalink to my post. Thanks for the heads-up - I'll use the post # link in the future.
Love this cooler. Once I get my RMA'd ram back I am anxious to OC it & compare temps to stock.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lostgryphon*


This cooler was cheap and, from what I've seen in my own system, is definitely quite effective for the price.

I had to replace the fan that came with the unit because of the loud...and I mean loud...rattling sound it made, regardless of how it was seated on the heatsink. The sound only died off if I dropped the fan speed down to 50% or so (1200 RPM). Luckily, I'd already bought and been using a second side case fan (Xigmatek Crystal Series) so I just mounted that with the brackets and It's dead silent at 1550 RPM. This came at the tail end of a 6-9 hour (I genuinely can't remember which) building time (What? It was my first one and I'm slow.) where in I used Arctic Silver in a close-to-pea sized glop that must have gone everywhere as I struggled to seat the 212+.

My temps have concerned me somewhat, but looking around has allayed my fears, at least a little. My [email protected] is currently running at 38-44c Idle in a 24c room. Load peaks at 65c with prime 95.

Anything to worry about here? I'm already considering reseating the 212+ with CM's TIM, but...well, basically just "Ugh."


AS5 takes 10 to 14 days to cure. It requires the system to be turned off until the cpu reaches room temp 2 to 4 times per day or will never properly cure. If you remove the heatsink you have to go thru that entire process again. My advice would be to unmount it now and see how it spread. If the spread looks okay you have the choice of sticking with the AS5 and going through the curing process or cleaning it off with Isopropyl Alcohol (not rubbing alcohol as that will leave an oily residue that acts as an insulator) and applying the CM Tim which cures in a few minutes (1 hour at the most). That choice would be up to you, but due to the amount of time it takes the AS5 to cure you should check it right away so you don't waste that time.

I would have to know exactly which Xiggy fan it is, but it might not have enough static pressure or cfm to work properly as a heatsink fan.

I would definitely contact CM about replacing that fan as they are normally a fairly quiet fan and extremely efficient. Make sure that the foam rubber pads are on the brackets to absorb the vibrations of the fan and make sure that none of the fan blades are damaged. Does it make noise if you run it in free air (plugged in but not mounted)?


----------



## nawon72

Do you know if anyone has gotten 24/7 4.0Ghz overclock with the Hyper 212+? I'm mostly interested in someone with 2600k and some mid range RAM ect...

Does the TIM make much of a difference in temps, or is the one that come with this good enough?

Will my temps increase if the heat sink wiggled a bit and isn't completely centered?


----------



## PapaSmurf

The TIM that comes with the 212+ is excellent. It's as good as any, better than most, and beats the pants off of anything made by Arctic Silver.

I'm running a Q9550 at 4.25GHz 24/7/365 with a 212+. That's a folding rig running the smp client so it is under 100% cpu load 100% of the time.

The heatsink rotating a bit won't affect temps.


----------



## nawon72

I forgot to ask this earlier. Will i be able to use a ram fan with the Hyper 212+? And what about with 2 fans in P/P? Basically, will a ram fan fit with the Hyper 212+

And how much of a difference will a CAS 7-8-7-24 1.6v memory vs CAS 8 8-8-8-24 make in terms of a CPU overclock. The CAS 7 is $50 more atm since the CAS 8 is on sale($30 off).


----------



## Dreamlane

I'll be getting my 212+ back from RMA early next week, Can't wait to see what it does for my 955BE.

The one I received with the rest of my build had an unthreaded screw on the mounting bracket.


----------



## Bigpapa42

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lostgryphon*


My temps have concerned me somewhat, but looking around has allayed my fears, at least a little. My [email protected] is currently running at 38-44c Idle in a 24c room. Load peaks at 65c with prime 95.


For comparison...

Just build yesterday, so obviously TIM has not cured. But with an i5-2500K, Sabertooth P67 board, and the Hyper 212+, I peaked at 53c at 4.3 GHz (used the Performance option in BIOS). Mostly sat around 50c while I ran some tests with Prime95. Idle was low 30s. Ambient temperature in the room was maybe a touch below normal, but the case has a lot of air flow.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nawon72*


I forgot to ask this earlier. Will i be able to use a ram fan with the Hyper 212+? And what about with 2 fans in P/P? Basically, will a ram fan fit with the Hyper 212+

And how much of a difference will a CAS 7-8-7-24 1.6v memory vs CAS 8 8-8-8-24 make in terms of a CPU overclock. The CAS 7 is $50 more atm since the CAS 8 is on sale($30 off).


Depends on the motherboard and the ram fans. If the ram is far enough away from the 212+ then yes, although it might block a small amount of the lower part of the fan of the 212+. Unless you are going for an extreme OC it should be fine.

The timings of the ram won't have anything to do with how well the cpu overclocks. But you should ask about the ram in the Intel Memory Forum here at OCN for recommendations on that.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Unless you are going for an extreme OC it should be fine.


Im not too sure what you mean by this. Are you saying i dont need a ram fan unless im going for extreme OC, or are you talking about something else.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72;12783908*
> Im not too sure what you mean by this. Are you saying i dont need a ram fan unless im going for extreme OC, or are you talking about something else.


I meant that having a ram fan that would block a small amount of the bottom of thje 212+ fan (say 1/2" or so) wouldn't have much of an effect on the cooling of the cpu so unless you are going for an extreme OC of the cpu (something that the 212+ really isn't designed for anyway) you should be fine with the ram fan.

But the stock BladeMaster fan that ships with the 212+ used in as a push fan would be pulling air over the ram anyway so it might not be necessary to have an actual ram fan anyway.


----------



## nawon72

Alright, thanks for all your help PapaSmurf. I think i now know everything i needed to know about the Hyper 212+.


----------



## chillgreg

Can I join please.


----------



## spitty13

What is the average OC and temperature for a 212 w/ a 2500k?


----------



## LemonMeringueTy

What are the best fans to put on this thing? Preferably ones that I can get from newegg.


----------



## lostgryphon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


A quote from PapaSmurf:

The idea is that your getting in the crevices. Doing just a pea drop it's probably not spreading across all heat pipes. Just think of TIM as an application to get the CPU to be 100% in contact with the heatsink.


Ah, gotcha. I'm still a bit of a newbie to this sort of stuff, so I sincerely do appreciate the input and information. +Rep for you, sir. Thank you.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


AS5 takes 10 to 14 days to cure. It requires the system to be turned off until the cpu reaches room temp 2 to 4 times per day or will never properly cure. If you remove the heatsink you have to go thru that entire process again. My advice would be to unmount it now and see how it spread. If the spread looks okay you have the choice of sticking with the AS5 and going through the curing process or cleaning it off with Isopropyl Alcohol (not rubbing alcohol as that will leave an oily residue that acts as an insulator) and applying the CM Tim which cures in a few minutes (1 hour at the most). That choice would be up to you, but due to the amount of time it takes the AS5 to cure you should check it right away so you don't waste that time.

I would have to know exactly which Xiggy fan it is, but it might not have enough static pressure or cfm to work properly as a heatsink fan.

I would definitely contact CM about replacing that fan as they are normally a fairly quiet fan and extremely efficient. Make sure that the foam rubber pads are on the brackets to absorb the vibrations of the fan and make sure that none of the fan blades are damaged. Does it make noise if you run it in free air (plugged in but not mounted)?


Hm. I knew about AS5's long burn in time, but I didn't realize it had to be cooled/heated that often in order to set correctly. I generally run this system 24/7, mostly out of habit and due to a terribly off kilter sleeping schedule, so I may need to adjust my expectations accordingly, bite the proverbial bullet, and try again with CM's. I've only been using a 70% Isopropyl alcohol for all my TMI removal thus far (An e8500/AS5) and haven't noticed any issues, but I'll invest in something a little more potent.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233049 Is the fan in question.

I'm actually typing up an e-mail to CM right now. The rubber pads were on and seemed to be working correctly. The blades also seem to be completely fine. I haven't been able to run it on air just yet, but just spinning it with my fingers causes an oddly high amount of vibration.

Again, thank you. Very much appreciated.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bigpapa42*


For comparison...

Just build yesterday, so obviously TIM has not cured. But with an i5-2500K, Sabertooth P67 board, and the Hyper 212+, I peaked at 53c at 4.3 GHz (used the Performance option in BIOS). Mostly sat around 50c while I ran some tests with Prime95. Idle was low 30s. Ambient temperature in the room was maybe a touch below normal, but the case has a lot of air flow.


Oh, and thank you. Shattered my fragile sense of all rightness with the build.







I'll definitely have to address this either today or tomorrow then.


----------



## Dirtyworks

I have a question for you 212+ AMD owners - am I correct in saying the airflow direction can be made to blow directly out the rear? Rather than blowing towards the roof of the case.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LemonMeringueTy*


What are the best fans to put on this thing? Preferably ones that I can get from newegg.


The one that comes with it is one of the very best you can get. If you want to do a push/pull setup just get a second BladeMaster to match it. See the Hyper 212+ FAQ (link in my sig) for details on the exact fan to get.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lostgryphon*


I've only been using a 70% Isopropyl alcohol for all my TMI removal thus far (An e8500/AS5) and haven't noticed any issues, but I'll invest in something a little more potent.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835233049 Is the fan in question.

I'm actually typing up an e-mail to CM right now. The rubber pads were on and seemed to be working correctly. The blades also seem to be completely fine. I haven't been able to run it on air just yet, but just spinning it with my fingers causes an oddly high amount of vibration.


 The percentage of Alcohol isn't what is important. What is important is that it is Isopropyl Alcohol which will never contain anything but the actual Alcohol and some Water. 70% is just fine for this type of application. It's the rubbing alcohol that causes problems as that contains Petroleum By-Products which leave an oily residue.

That fan should be okay. It actually should be about the same noise level as the BladeMaster. If your BladeMaster is making noise just turning the blade by hand it is definitely defective. You should make sure that CoolerMaster replaces it with a working one as you paid for it and deserve one that works like it's supposed to.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


I have a question for you 212+ AMD owners - am I correct in saying the airflow direction can be made to blow directly out the rear? Rather than blowing towards the roof of the case.


From what I understand it depends on the motherboard, but I don't know which ones can and can't.


----------



## Horsemama1956

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


I have a question for you 212+ AMD owners - am I correct in saying the airflow direction can be made to blow directly out the rear? Rather than blowing towards the roof of the case.


Unless you have stuff blocking the mounting bracket, you just spin the 212+ so it's face front to back and insert the bracket so it surrounds the heat pipes(if you can kind of get what I mean). It should work on most boards unless it is extremely cramped.


----------



## wooly

works on my gigabyte


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooly;12801513*
> works on my gigabyte


Thanks for that. I'll put that on the list I'm starting. Please, if anyone else has any info about which ones do and don't please post so we can attempt to compile a list.


----------



## GameBoy

Is the list still being updated?


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GameBoy*


Is the list still being updated?


my ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 works with the 212+ straight to my exhaust fan out the back.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Thanks for that. I'll put that on the list I'm starting. Please, if anyone else has any info about which ones do and don't please post so we can attempt to compile a list.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Fooliobass*


my ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 works with the 212+ straight to my exhaust fan out the back.


Same as mine. And I *somewhat* remember I could set it to blow to top but decided against it because I feared VRM's wouldn't get anything blowing on them. Next time I'm inside the case I'll take a look.


----------



## ap42

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Thanks for that. I'll put that on the list I'm starting. Please, if anyone else has any info about which ones do and don't please post so we can attempt to compile a list.


I have my Gigabyte GA-890fxa-ud5 v2.1 set up with the 212+ blowing out the back. 2 fans in push/pull - the fan over my ram is raised about a half inch to clear my memory.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GameBoy;12809887*
> Is the list still being updated?


Nope. The new list owner only did it for a week or so and them vanished.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fooliobass;12810181*
> my ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 works with the 212+ straight to my exhaust fan out the back.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ap42;12812889*
> I have my Gigabyte GA-890fxa-ud5 v2.1 set up with the 212+ blowing out the back. 2 fans in push/pull - the fan over my ram is raised about a half inch to clear my memory.


I'll add those to my list. Thanks.


----------



## ffejrxx

PapaSmurf, can you create a group for the 212+?

http://www.overclock.net/group.php?do=create

then anyone can add themselves to it


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;12817293*
> PapaSmurf, can you create a group for the 212+?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/group.php?do=create
> 
> then anyone can add themselves to it


http://www.overclock.net/groups/coolermaster-hyper-212.html


----------



## fazio93

i've meaning to join this club.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Alright, thanks for the info guys








I'll let you know whether or not it'll work on the M4A785-M, whenever it arrives in the next week or two.. However pertinent that info is for this board haha.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12817496*
> http://www.overclock.net/groups/coolermaster-hyper-212.html


Awesome! Joined right away.


----------



## mojosephwu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;12817731*
> i've meaning to join this club.


did u just build that machine???


----------



## fazio93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojosephwu;12826051*
> did u just build that machine???


no, little by little i upgraded it. latest upgrades were the case, cooler, and fan controller last month.


----------



## mojosephwu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fazio93;12827650*
> no, little by little i upgraded it. latest upgrades were the case, cooler, and fan controller last month.


yea u should think about upgrading ur gpu







and u shouldnt have gone with that nzxt case!! instead by the haf 912 or any haf case!! but 692 advanced in the best


----------



## Dirtyworks

I have another question:
I've read of a few instances where the bottom of the heat pipes didn't quite line up with the base of the cooler. Now, is it ok to lightly lap/sand the contact area, with the heatpipes there?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


I have another question:
I've read of a few instances where the bottom of the heat pipes didn't quite line up with the base of the cooler. Now, is it ok to lightly lap/sand the contact area, with the heatpipes there?


It's okay to lap the base of the heatsink, but be very careful about lapping the heatpipes themselves as they are very thin.If the heatpipes stick out below the base then you would be better off contacting CM about RMA'ing it.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Lets hope that's not the case. Where I am, it'll take 4 weeks to get another one - I ordered it on the 18th and I'm not expecting it till next week sometime :\
I hope I get a perfectly normal one lol


----------



## fazio93

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mojosephwu*


yea u should think about upgrading ur gpu







and u shouldnt have gone with that nzxt case!! instead by the haf 912 or any haf case!! but 692 advanced in the best


my monitor resolution isn't too demanding (1440 x 900) and i don't worry about maxing games out with highh AA, etc. i think i'll be fine for now.

but i love my nzxt case! glad i got it. i was looking at the 912 also, but something made me go with the m59.


----------



## GreekElite

hi guys im wanting to get another fan on the other side of this cpu cooler does it have to be the same fan so it can suit those extra clips that i got in the box with my hyper 212 cooler or can it be another cooler, can anyone recommend me a great fan for the other side pelase


----------



## Thogar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreekElite;12834384*
> hi guys im wanting to get another fan on the other side of this cpu cooler does it have to be the same fan so it can suit those extra clips that i got in the box with my hyper 212 cooler or can it be another cooler, can anyone recommend me a great fan for the other side pelase


iirc you need to have 2 of the same fan.


----------



## PapaSmurf

You want to get another CM BladeMaster fan (not a regular CM R4) to match the one that shipped with it. Using mis-matched fans will hinder the performance to the point that it can be worse than just the single fan. Right now Newegg has them for the cheapest price including shipping unless you order enough from Amazon to qualify for the free shipping optin.


----------



## GreekElite

hey guys thanks for the quick replys , can i use this fan or is this the regular CM R4?
http://www.mwave.com.au/sku-18010250-Cooler_Master_120mm_Fan_4_in_1_%28R4_S2S_124K_GP%29

im just really not happy with the cooler now because its showing the same temps as i had with my Intel stock cpu cooler which was 37 Celsius up to 46 Celsius
so im just thinking if i get another fan to get the hot air out it would help to lower the temps


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreekElite;12834728*
> hey guys thanks for the quick replys , can i use this fan or is this the regular CM R4?
> http://www.mwave.com.au/sku-18010250-Cooler_Master_120mm_Fan_4_in_1_%28R4_S2S_124K_GP%29
> 
> im just really not happy with the cooler now because its showing the same temps as i had with my Intel stock cpu cooler which was 37 Celsius up to 46 Celsius
> so im just thinking if i get another fan to get the hot air out it would help to lower the temps


doesnt look like it
what your looking for

Brand: COOLER MASTER
Model: R4-BMBS-20PK-R0 Spec
Fan Size: 120mm
Bearing Type: Long Life Sleeve
RPM: 600 - 2000 RPM
Air Flow: 21.2 - 76.8 CFM
Noise Level: 13 - 32 dBA
Power Connector: 4 Pin


----------



## PapaSmurf

And I already answered the question about the fans in my previous post. NO, you can't use an R4 with a BladeMaster and get better results than you would with just the BladeMaster. But the chances of your problem being with the fan is somewhere between slim and none. If you are getting the same temps with the Hyper 212+ on your Q6600 as you do with the stock Intel heatsink either your sensors are wrong or you have it mounted incorrectly. Adding a second fan would normally only give a 1 to 2C difference. At best it might do 3 to 4C, but that is rather rare. A properly installed Hyper 212+ with the stock BladeMaster fan should be a good 10 to 15C lower than the stock Intel heatsink on a Q6600.

Please provide some additional information if possible though.

Are those temps at Idle or under Load? Idle temps are meaningless and quite often inaccurate. The only temps that matter are fully loaded temps.
What is your ambient room temp?
Did you follow the instructions for applying the TIM as found posted numerous times in this thread (or in the Hyper 212+ FAQ in my sig) or did you apply it some other way?
Do you have the heatsink fan controlled by the motherboards bios (PWM) or have them running at full speed?
Are you running the Q6600 at stock speeds or are you overclocking? If OC'ing, how high and what vcore are you using?


----------



## GreekElite

1. i used intel burntest v2 i set the burn to High, my highest temp was 61 Celsius
2. my room temp is around 18 - 22 Celsius
3. yes i followed the steps you gave me
4. i have the plug plugged into the top of the motherboard which is a 4 pin
5. no my Q6600 is at stock 2.40 Ghz speed


----------



## Krusher33

I would take off cooler and see if TIM spread over all of CPU. Should be a thin layer of it too. Clean off, try again, and make sure it's not too loose.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Definitely sounds like a bad seat or bad installation of the TIM. I would start there. You also might want to go into the bios and set the fan to manual (not sure what the exact setting is on that board). There is no way it should be that hot with that configuration. I'm just barely getting 60C in a 23C room with 100% load with my Q6600 overclocked to 3.3GHz and the vcore at 1.425v, and mine is an older B3 model that has always run hot.

You do have adequate case cooling right? The Antec 900 isn't much for cable management but it should have pretty good airflow, at least as good as the cheap case I have my Q6600 in. You might want to post a pic of the inside of your case so we can see if we can find anything that might help.

Also, what are you using to read the temps?


----------



## GreekElite

unfortunately my motherboard is just a plain intel board with no adjustable settings except for setting the hard drives up, there is no manual setting in my bios for fan control, ive got all my cabling hiden as much as i can theres just a but under the grfx card, there is no cabling infront of the cpu fan
ill just pull it apart again and see what the problem is


----------



## WvoulfeXX

Just got my Hyper 212plus


----------



## GreekElite

looking nice buddy show us pics when you install it


----------



## WvoulfeXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GreekElite;12849378*
> looking nice buddy show us pics when you install it


Will do so when I get home tonight. On my way to work now but its installed







I ran intel burn test and its 16c+ cooler(massively quieter).


----------



## GameBoy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12815644*
> Nope. The new list owner only did it for a week or so and them vanished.


Strange. His last update to the OP was last month and his last activity was 5 days ago.









The least he could do is hand the club over to someone else if he isn't interested.


----------



## alpsie

I´ve just put together my system.

my idle temps are 33-30-30-30, are these resonable, or should I take of the cooler and re-apply TIM?


----------



## spikexp

idle temps mean almost nothing, load temps give us the answer.


----------



## nowcontrol

Hi all.....I have just received and installed a new CM hyper 212 plus.....all is good.


----------



## alpsie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikexp;12864778*
> idle temps mean almost nothing, load temps give us the answer.


oh sorry ^^; I´m new to all this.
did a test with prime95 and max temp i got was 50-53c


----------



## Bigpapa42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpsie;12867216*
> oh sorry ^^; I´m new to all this.
> did a test with prime95 and max temp i got was 50-53c


That's what I am seeing with a very similar system (i5-2500K, Sabertooth P67, CM Hyper 212+) overlocked to 4.3 GHz. If you are overclocking a bit and getting those temps, you're fine. If you are getting them at stock frequency, you might want to look at reseating it.


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigpapa42;12867596*
> That's what I am seeing with a very similar system (i5-2500K, Sabertooth P67, CM Hyper 212+) overlocked to 4.3 GHz. If you are overclocking a bit and getting those temps, you're fine. If you are getting them at stock frequency, you might want to look at reseating it.


The Dual 6870's might be kicking up the heat also. How is the cable management in that NZXT case. The case may need more airflow to help out the 212+. Just a thought.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nowcontrol;12864801*
> Hi all.....I have just received and installed a new CM hyper 212 plus.....all is good.


Sounds good. How do you like that Beta EVO with those Yate Loon SL's? I'm assuming you are using them as case fans right? I'm considering that case.


----------



## alpsie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fooliobass;12867695*
> The Dual 6870's might be kicking up the heat also. How is the cable management in that NZXT case. The case may need more airflow to help out the 212+. Just a thought.


I´m getting the temps without any overclocking.
might have used too much TIM, should I apply it as first post state, only on the cooler and none on the CPU ?

http://img717.imageshack.us/f/20110324203339.jpg/ link to the inside of my case, pic dont show crossfire bridge, but it is on there now.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Not until you tell us your ambient room temps. Also try removing the side panel to see if the temps go down or not.


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpsie;12868359*
> I´m getting the temps without any overclocking.
> might have used too much TIM, should I apply it as first post state, only on the cooler and none on the CPU ?
> 
> http://img717.imageshack.us/f/20110324203339.jpg/ link to the inside of my case, pic dont show crossfire bridge, but it is on there now.


Case looks good and clean.
Dumb Question:
Are your fans all pointing the same way to exhaust through the exhaust fan?

otherwise I would look into reapplying the TIM. 50-53c does seem high for a stock system.

What are your ambient temps?


----------



## Crabid

Check the fans on this sucker


















That's on my work PC, temps are ok but case airflow is nonexistant so I don't expect too much in it's current housing.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crabid;12868760*
> Check the fans on this sucker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's on my work PC, temps are ok but case airflow is nonexistant so I don't expect too much in it's current housing.


Are those the 100+ CFM Sunon's? I had a pair of them several years ago. Turned my case into a hovercraft.


----------



## Crabid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12868796*
> Are those the 100+ CFM Sunon's? I had a pair of them several years ago. Turned my case into a hovercraft.


Awww don't be mean, they've got nothing on the servers I sit next to









To be honest I think they're not running at their full pottential... I have them plugged into the mobo atm since I haven't really got time to rewire them while at work


----------



## Krusher33

I want a video where you leave it on the table, hook it up to a test PSU, and watch it slide across the table.


----------



## Crabid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;12868938*
> I want a video where you leave it on the table, hook it up to a test PSU, and watch it slide across the table.


I've got a plan for my next lunch break!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crabid;12868898*
> Awww don't be mean, they've got nothing on the servers I sit next to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To be honest I think they're not running at their full pottential... I have them plugged into the mobo atm since I haven't really got time to rewire them while at work


I wasn't trying to be mean. They are nice fans. I used to sleep with an overclocked AMD Athlon Thunderbird with a screaming Delta Black Label 38cfm, 7,000 rpm, 50db fan about two feet from my head so I know all about noisy fans.


----------



## Crabid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12869041*
> I wasn't trying to be mean. They are nice fans. I used to sleep with an overclocked AMD Athlon Thunderbird with a screaming Delta Black Label 38cfm, 7,000 rpm, 50db fan about two feet from my head so I know all about noisy fans.


DW, was only kidding







You managed to sleep with that?! Damn.

Those fans really don't produce _that_ much noise imo though, I would certainly use them again (in fact I might get another 8 for a 480 rad, but that's a bit off topic







)


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12869041*
> I wasn't trying to be mean. They are nice fans. I used to sleep with an overclocked AMD Athlon Thunderbird with a screaming Delta Black Label 38cfm, 7,000 rpm, 50db fan about two feet from my head so I know all about noisy fans.


And how's your hearing now?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Say what?????


----------



## alpsie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12868491*
> Not until you tell us your ambient room temps. Also try removing the side panel to see if the temps go down or not.


room temp is about 19c.

temp does not drop when removing side panel.

cpu temps keep hoovering around 48-52c on stress test. no oc

.
edit
turbo mode seems to activate itself so it goes to 3.7 ghz


----------



## PapaSmurf

That sounds about right then. It's fairly common for sensors to stick at the low end and not give accurate readings when at idle which is why we say that they don't matter. If you feel the urge you could always try a reseat, but it doesn't look that bad to me.


----------



## alpsie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12879572*
> That sounds about right then. It's fairly common for sensors to stick at the low end and not give accurate readings when at idle which is why we say that they don't matter. If you feel the urge you could always try a reseat, but it doesn't look that bad to me.


okay







thank you very much, now I just need to find the best guide on how to OC this chip ^^;


----------



## PapaSmurf

See if there is a thread in the Intel Motherboards Forum here at OCN. That would be the best place to start.


----------



## nowcontrol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Sounds good. How do you like that Beta EVO with those Yate Loon SL's? I'm assuming you are using them as case fans right? I'm considering that case.


The case is amazing...so much airflow, only a few small things that bug me about it really like the lack of clearance at the top for most 25mm deep fans, I have two temporary akasa 120's up there at the moment and because my mobos socket is right on the top edge of the board i've had to mount the hyper 212 to blow upwards out thru the top for now, I wish i could find some 120/140x15 but will be getting some 120mm low speed slim yates for the top soon, and yes the 3 yates I already have are used on the case as two intakes at the front (have mounted the optical drive in the bottom bay an have hung the fan above it with zip-ties) and the one exhaust on the rear (also using the nzxt stock fan on the side panel)

All I can say about the case is GET THE DAM THING ALREADY!


----------



## PapaSmurf

I have a deal in place for a motherboard. If that doesn't work out I'll be grabbing one next week. Otherwise it'll probably be another month or so.

Yate doesn't make any 15mm thick fans in the 120 or 140 size. 120x20 and 140x25 are the thinnest of those sizes. This is a link to all of the DC fans that Yate makes.


----------



## nowcontrol

yeah I know about the sizes and I'm not that bothered about them being yates really if I can find some/any 120/140's @15mm depth.....

I have some 80x15 hipers in my other rig but 80's or smaller seem to be the only sizes that have the 15mm depth, which is a shame.


----------



## Krusher33

Talking about Beta EVO classic?


----------



## nowcontrol

Yes, I think this is the wrong club for any more chat about for now tho.


----------



## Krusher33

Well the clearance from my Hyper 212+ (on topic







) is about 7mm from my 140's.

Edit: I was looking for camera for the past 15 minutes but I think my wife must've taken it with her.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I think it has to do with how close to the top of the mobo the cpu socket is.

And yes I will probably be getting one in a few weeks. Just finalized a deal on a mobo that I couldn't pass up so the new case will have to wait a bit longer. Heck, I've only been looking at a new case for the past year so a few more weeks is nothing.


----------



## Krusher33

What mobo?

Case was hardest thing to shop for in my opinion. If you're picky, there's none perfect. If you're not picky, then there's too many choices.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The way I look at it the Beta EVO is just like the Hyper 212+. Considering you can get one for $45 shipped from Amazon and sometimes even less when on sale it's the best bang for your buck case out there.

Have an EP45-UD3R coming. I'll be using it to replace my P35-DS3L in my second rig and turning the P35 into the backup/test rig replacing my 965P-DS3. The 965P with an E6420 and 2gigs of ram will go to my youngest daughter to replace her Biostar T-Force6100-939 3800X2 and 1gig of ram. I'll just need to pickup a cheap dual core for the P35.


----------



## Krusher33

Sounds like plan my man.

And yeah, never heard of this case till Tator Tot mentioned it. I was pretty skeptical of it. Cheap price, vents on top, I wasn't so sure.

But then I got it, put all the fans in and all the guts, and oh my gosh I'm impressed. And you're right, the case has to be the leader of budget cases.

I got 2 Thermalright X-Silence 140mm fans, 3 Thermalright 1300 rpm fans, and it's quiet as heck at full speed. Temps have been great too. Though my overclock is only to 3.5.









Edit: Funny that the case has same story as the 212+: Skeptical because of its price, but once you get it, it's "WOW!" Amazing for their values.


----------



## PapaSmurf

And I'll be adding some Yate Loon Fans to mine. The Yate's are some of the best bang for your buck 120mm and 140mm fans. Kinda noticing a theme going here.


----------



## wooly

I have the Alpha myself but I built my cousins PC (same spec as me though unfortunately his 550BE didnt unlock) with a Beta EVO, I had used thermaltake and gigabyte and even a budget Lian Li case for builds before but I'm loving NZXT.. the quality you get for the price is great


----------



## dcloud

Sign me up!


----------



## wooly

nice set up! and a lucky budget unlock like myself


----------



## Horsemama1956

dcloud, is your memory not in a Dual Channel configuration? Hard to tell from the screenshot, but it doesn't look like a gap between the memory.


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horsemama1956;12888568*
> dcloud, is your memory not in a Dual Channel configuration? Hard to tell from the screenshot, but it doesn't look like a gap between the memory.


Most AMD gigabyte boards have memory channels where you either use the first two slots, or the last 2 slots. It looks like he has his ram in the last two slots, since his cooler is faced horizontally.


----------



## wooly

he is using slot 3 and 4, same as me... mine is running dual


----------



## wooly

btw dcloud that cooler should face the ram no problem with that mobo.


----------



## Horsemama1956

wow, had an AM3 setup for like 2 years. Can't believe I forgot that quickly. 2 Gigabyte boards even.


----------



## dcloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooly;12888638*
> btw dcloud that cooler should face the ram no problem with that mobo.


Are you sure? I was really caught off guard when I looked at the cooler bracket and my motherboard. I sat there pondering about it for like 20 minutes when I was installing it haha. After installing it, I looked it up and many AM2/AM3 setups don't have any other choice on how to install the Hyper 212+.


----------



## dcloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shooter116;12888621*
> Most AMD gigabyte boards have memory channels where you either use the first two slots, or the last 2 slots. It looks like he has his ram in the last two slots, since his cooler is faced horizontally.


Thanks! I couldn't of explained it better myself. lol


----------



## wooly

I thought I was going to have trouble myself but just simply turn it around and have the bracket rest on the heatpipes, still fits perfect.


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shooter116;12888621*
> Most AMD gigabyte boards have memory channels where you either use the first two slots, or the last 2 slots. It looks like he has his ram in the last two slots, since his cooler is faced horizontally.


off topic but

My board's ram slots in an order of A1, B1, A2, B2

To run Dual channel you can put them in Either A1, A2 or B1, B2.

So there is a gap when running in dual channel. It is also color coded this way.


----------



## dcloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooly;12889010*
> I thought I was going to have trouble myself but just simply turn it around and have the bracket rest on the heatpipes, still fits perfect.


Maybe I'll have another look. But, I remember if I tried to put the cooler with the heatpipes coming across from top to bottom. The heatpipes got in the way of the bracket. Maybe I didn't play around enough with the bracket?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fooliobass;12889242*
> off topic but
> 
> My board's ram slots in an order of A1, B1, A2, B2
> 
> To run Dual channel you can put them in Either A1, A2 or B1, B2.
> 
> So there is a gap when running in dual channel. It is also color coded this way.


Believe me, that's how I thought it was suppose to be too. But, it's color coded side by side on the board and that's how it is in the manual as well. I quadruple checked to make sure. I guess that's just how Gigabyte rolls.


----------



## Krusher33

EVERY board is different. Just check manual.


----------



## Xcrunner

Does a push/pull setup make that big of a difference?


----------



## PapaSmurf

If done right and in the right case they can. Most people see 1-2C lower temps, but some will get 3-4C. The main thing is you absolutely have to match the fans.


----------



## Xcrunner

So if I have two different fans that are the same rpm it wouldn't be a good idea?


----------



## PapaSmurf

RPM isn't a good indication of how well they are matched. They need to be the exact same fan for best results as they need to have the same CFM and Static Pressure. Unless you want some noisier fans your best bet would be to pick up another BladeMaster fan like what came with it. Those work extremely well. See the 212+ Faq Link in my sig for details on the BladeMaster fan included with the 212+.


----------



## Rambleon84

I'm probably going to buy this cooler in the very near future. I really want to start overclocking my cpu and the stock fan will not cut it. Would I have any issues with the 212+ fitting in my case with my mobo and ram? 









Any thoughts? Also, should I pick up something specific to clean off the TIM on my cpu or should I just pick up a bottle of 90% rubbing alcohol? My local Micro Center has them in stock for less than $30 with tax and I'll be near it tomorrow. Lastly, can I install the 212 while the mobo is still in my tower, or should I just plan to take it and reinstall everything?
(yes I plan on getting an extensions for my front USB and HD audio, will have to see if microcenter carries those lol.)


----------



## PapaSmurf

First, yes it will fit in that case. As far as that motherboard, from what I can tell it shouldn't be a problem. Make sure to mount it so that it blows air out the back instead of towards the top. Since that case does have a CPU retention backplate access opening you SHOULD be able to mount it without pulling the mobo out. There is a small possibility that the cpu socket and the access hole won't line up well enough to allow you to do so, but there is no way to know without trying it.

And do NOT use rubbing alcohol as that has petroleum distillates and/or by products that will leave an oily film on the surfaces. You want to use Isopropyl Alcohol. And before you ask, yes there is a HUGE difference between the two.


----------



## Dirtyworks

If you don't want to go elsewhere, you could pick up arcticlean from microcenter, to clean your CPU.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


If you don't want to go elsewhere, you could pick up arcticlean from microcenter, to clean your CPU.


Waste of money. You can pick up a bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol at any drug store, grocery store, or big box store like K-Mart, ShopKo, Target, Wally World, etc. for less than a dollar that will do a better job than that over priced Arcti-Clean crap.


----------



## mbudden

Is there a reason why you're not the head of this club yet?


----------



## Rambleon84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12911373*
> And do NOT use rubbing alcohol as that has petroleum distillates and/or by products that will leave an oily film on the surfaces. You want to use Isopropyl Alcohol. And before you ask, yes there is a HUGE difference between the two.


I'm glad you actually said that (and that I asked!), I probably would not have checked for a difference (yes thought they were the same







)

I was curious with the opening behind the mobo, if I would be able to do it with the mobo still in the case. I will have to report back once I get everything installed. Thanks for the help! With any luck I should have it installed later tonight.


----------



## mojosephwu

is the Hyper 212+ really eligible for a 4.7 OC on the 2500k??


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbudden;12912452*
> Is there a reason why you're not the head of this club yet?


Probably because I never asked to take it over or agreed to do so.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojosephwu;12918778*
> is the Hyper 212+ really eligible for a 4.7 OC on the 2500k??


Eligible isn't the word I would use for that, but it is possible in the right case, with the right airflow, with the right cpu, and under the right conditions.

How probable is something else entirely. Considering that a 2500k is 3.7GHz stock I give it a fairly good chance.


----------



## mbudden

You should, all this information you repost over and over again. It could be easily answered in the OP.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


*If you don't want to go elsewhere*, you could pick up arcticlean from microcenter, to clean your CPU.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Waste of money. You can pick up a bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol at any drug store, grocery store, or big box store like K-Mart, ShopKo, Target, Wally World, etc. for less than a dollar that will do a better job than that over priced Arcti-Clean crap.


I'd rather spend $10 and not have to waste time by going to another store.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The problem is that way too many of the new people are too lazy to read the first post. They'll skip right to the last post and post their question instead of taking two minutes to check to see if it's covered in the beginning.

That's the problem with threads like this. Once they get to be more than 10 to 20 posts it just ends up being new people asking the same questions over and over even though they have been answered time and time again and the information is right there in the first post or two. As as experiment on another forum I participated we maintained a FAQ in the first post of the thread and whenever anyone would ask one of the questions covered there we would refer them to the first post for the answer. You would be surprised the number of people that became indignant that we wouldn't take the time to answer their question personally instead of referring them to the FAQ in the first post. Some went so far as to complain to the Forum Moderators, Administrator, and Owner about it. With a mentality like that it is just fighting a losing battle.


----------



## Bigpapa42

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mojosephwu*


is the Hyper 212+ really eligible for a 4.7 OC on the 2500k??


As a point of comparison, I have a 2500K with the Hyper 212+ (in a HAF X case) running at 4.3 GHz and it barely tips over 50c at full load while stress testing. As long as the voltage isn't too high, I would think that 4.7 GHz would be doable, but Papa Smurf makes a great point that all the factors (case, environment) would come into play as well.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


I'd rather spend $10 and not have to waste time by going to another store.


To each his own. Considering that I would normally be stopping at one of the other stores within a day or so anyway I would rather save the $10.

Of course if you have a wife, girl friend, daughter, mother, or other female in the house that has pierced ears there is probably a bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol in the bathroom already.


----------



## mbudden

I have like 3 bottles of it at my house. 
Just run to the store and buy Isopropyl Alcohol & some cotton balls and you're good to go.


----------



## mojosephwu

i am planning on ocing my 2500k with the hyper 212+ with push pull set up with two yate loon high speed! room temperature is about 17C. if it is properly set up and TIM is applied just like the three lines way that was in this thread would it be east to hit 4.7 ghz with about 70C at full load or hotter? voltage lets say about 1.35 V or higher but not over 1.4 with all proper setting. i know ppl are going to say every situation is different but i just want to know if it is likely to hit 4.7 ghz with no problem with around 70C.


----------



## PapaSmurf

There is simply no way to know for sure until you try it. There is a reasonable chance, but there are just too many variables involved. Heck there is no guarantee that any given 2500K will reach 4.7GHz with ANY air or water cooling.


----------



## Crabid

Isn't 4.7 still quite a high clock on that chip, personally I'm going to guess no, since I have seen H50's get to 4.9GHz at 80-90oC.

There's a lot of variables, but I think for that kind of clock the odds are stacked against you lol


----------



## PapaSmurf

4.7 would be a 1gig OC as the 2500K is 3.7 stock. Intel says 3.3GHz and 3.7 with TurboBoost which essentially means they are a 3.7GHz cpu. I would tend to think that 4.3 to 4.5 would be more realistic for 24/7 everyday usage, but 4.7 would be possible under the right conditions.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


I'd rather spend $10 and not have to waste time by going to another store.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


To each his own. Considering that I would normally be stopping at one of the other stores within a day or so anyway I would rather save the $10.

Of course if you have a wife, girl friend, daughter, mother, or other female in the house that has pierced ears there is probably a bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol in the bathroom already.


I rather go to the grocery store where you can pick some up AND beer for $10 total.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Just don't drink the beer while you are assembling the system.


----------



## Krusher33

Or don't grab the wrong bottle.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The beer would probably clean the TIM fairly well, but drinking the Iso might cause some issues. Kinda glad I gave up drinking back in the 70's.


----------



## Rambleon84

Thanks for the help, she installed with out any real issues. Watched the install video on youtube, read through the instructions once and the rest was self explanatory during the install itself.

Hope my question wasn't one of the redundant ones, read through several pages worth of this thread. That helped answer the basic question I had when it came to picking this cooler. The how to spread the TIM was much helpful!

With out further ado;








So should I move my ram to the other slots, its not actually touching but its close. Would it be a problem to be that close?

I didnt have to remove the mobo (yay for AMD) I only had to remove the ram for the install which isnt really much work lol


----------



## PapaSmurf

I would move them if for no other reason than to allow more airflow over them to keep them cooler.


----------



## andrewmd

I've read through a couple of pages of this thread and having found no one else with this issue. The way I mounted my hyper 212+, its not facing towards the back of the case but rather towards the top. Its really late here so I cant get a picture right now, but if you have trouble understanding what I'm saying, I'll post it up tomorrow. You can basically see it in my video though starting at around 0:30




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-5oDYGTlE4&feature=channel_video_title[/ame[/URL]]

I was wondering how much this would affect temps and if its worth (or possible) changing.
thanks


----------



## listen to remix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrewmd;12926245*
> I've read through a couple of pages of this thread and having found no one else with this issue. The way I mounted my hyper 212+, its not facing towards the back of the case but rather towards the top. Its really late here so I cant get a picture right now, but if you have trouble understanding what I'm saying, I'll post it up tomorrow. You can basically see it in my video though starting at around 0:30
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering how much this would affect temps and if its worth (or possible) changing.
> thanks


It's better to have the fan facing the back and not the top. The fan needs to work harder when it's mounted horizontally.


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrewmd;12926245*
> I've read through a couple of pages of this thread and having found no one else with this issue. The way I mounted my hyper 212+, its not facing towards the back of the case but rather towards the top. Its really late here so I cant get a picture right now, but if you have trouble understanding what I'm saying, I'll post it up tomorrow. You can basically see it in my video though starting at around 0:30
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering how much this would affect temps and if its worth (or possible) changing.
> thanks


I would also try to organize those cables a bit more. It looks like a rats nest in there. Some zip ties and running cables behind the case could help your airflow out.


----------



## andrewmd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *listen to remix;12926327*
> It's better to have the fan facing the back and not the top. The fan needs to work harder when it's mounted horizontally.


alright....but is it possible to turn it?
because the way I mounted the top clasps, i felt like it wouldn't fit horizontally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fooliobass;12929976*
> I would also try to organize those cables a bit more. It looks like a rats nest in there. Some zip ties and running cables behind the case could help your airflow out.


and yeah, I'm actually working on that right now


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you had used a case like the NZXT Beta Evo that has the psu mounted at the bottom and top fan openings it wouldn't make that much of a difference. But in that Alpha case with the PSu at the top it will. If you can't rotate the 212+ then you should look into either replacing the case or getting a different heatsink that can be mounted front to back.

You also need to either remove the link to that video from your post or change the music in it to one that doesn't violate the no profanity rule in the OCN TOS like that one does. The F-Bomb is not appropriate or allowed here on OCN.


----------



## andrewmd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12936937*
> If you had used a case like the NZXT Beta Evo that has the psu mounted at the bottom and top fan openings it wouldn't make that much of a difference. But in that Alpha case with the PSu at the top it will. If you can't rotate the 212+ then you should look into either replacing the case or getting a different heatsink that can be mounted front to back.
> 
> You also need to either remove the link to that video from your post or change the music in it to one that doesn't violate the no profanity rule in the OCN TOS like that one does. The F-Bomb is not appropriate or allowed here on OCN.


Well the computer was a budget build so getting new parts already would pretty much defeat the purpose. Ill just keep it the way it is for now, I doubt It'd make TOO much of a difference anyways








But thanks for the feedback

I think I know what I might have done wrong though and eventually I'll go back and try to fix it. But this was my first build ever and i learn from my mistakes


----------



## PapaSmurf

With the PSU at the top like that one you are exhausting your cpu's hot air into the PSu and expecting it to expel the hot air which it isn't designed to do. It also forces the psu to run at a much higher temp than it needs to be putting it under more stress than is necessary. The end result is that the system as a whole and the psu in particular will run hotter and the psu fan will run at a higher rpm causing the system to be noisier than it needs to be. It'll probably be okay running at stock speeds, but I wouldn't be doing any overclocking with it like that.


----------



## Smithers

Greetings,
I installed my 212 last night. I was a little miffed because upon unpacking I realized that CM had neglected to include the bracket which attaches to the bottom of the mobo as well as the required standoffs. I'm currently using a generic set of standoffs and the factory mobo bracket. Will this create a problem?
(No OC). Idle: 35C, Max: 56C.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes it will. You need to contact CoolerMaster Support about it or return it to the place of purchase and exchange it for one that has all of the hardware. I'm betting you ended up with one that was returned to the store instead of a new one.

Personally, I wouldn't run it without the actual CM mounting hardware.


----------



## Smithers

Got it on but something must be jacked. Hitting 60C on a stock clock w/prime95. I applied a super thin layer of arctic silver. Perhaps not enough?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Just using the Arctic Silver could cause it. Use the TIM that came with it and see the 212 Faq (link in my sig) to see the proper way to apply it. The stock TIM is much better than Arctic Silver which takes 200 hours of a very complicated curing process to obtain it's optimum temps which will still be higher than the stock TIM that CoolerMaster provides.


----------



## dcloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrewmd;12926245*
> I've read through a couple of pages of this thread and having found no one else with this issue. The way I mounted my hyper 212+, its not facing towards the back of the case but rather towards the top. Its really late here so I cant get a picture right now, but if you have trouble understanding what I'm saying, I'll post it up tomorrow. You can basically see it in my video though starting at around 0:30
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was wondering how much this would affect temps and if its worth (or possible) changing.
> thanks


If you go to page 154, I had my Hyper 212+ installed the same way you do. On the same page, I was informed by a user named "wooly" that the cooler should have no problem facing the back of the case on my mobo. Long story short, I went and re-installed my cooler just today and to my surprise it did fit facing front to back. So, I would say go ahead and have another look at it. Just a word of warning, you may need to move your RAM over to the other slots.


----------



## Quatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quatrix;12778234*
> Ran Prime95 for a few minutes. Core temperature ranges were 28 - 57, 29 - 63, 33 - 64, and 30 - 60. Ambient is 80 F (South Florida, bleh), and the motherboard is sitting out in the open without a case.


Does anyone have any real evidence to support thermal paste burn-in time? Allegedly Arctic Silver 5 drops temperatures a few additional degrees over the first 200 hours, but my temperature ranges today are about one degree HIGHER than I posted above. I've had the same experience with other CPUs and coolers.


----------



## Quatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12963199*
> The stock TIM is much better than Arctic Silver which takes 200 hours of a very complicated curing process to obtain it's optimum temps which will still be higher than the stock TIM that CoolerMaster provides.


Have you actually tried Arctic Silver vs. CoolerMaster's paste and compared temperatures?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Not directly. I stopped using AS5 several years ago due to the curing process and higher temps compared to Arctic Cooling MX-2 and MX-3 which I did do direct comparisons with. The CM ThermalFusion 400 gives the same results as the MX-2 and MX-3 so that shows it out performs AS-5. Every test I've seen in the past 2 to 3 years with one exception shows MX-2, MX-3, and ThermalFusion 400 outperforms AS5 by 1-3C. AS-5 hasn't been considered a top TIM since 2007, and even then it was questionable as to how well it compared to the other top TIMS. The only use for Arctic Silver these day is using Ceramique with LN2 and DICE bench rigs. AS-5's day has came and went.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quatrix;12965074*
> Does anyone have any real evidence to support thermal paste burn-in time? Allegedly Arctic Silver 5 drops temperatures a few additional degrees over the first 200 hours, but my temperature ranges today are about one degree HIGHER than I posted above. I've had the same experience with other CPUs and coolers.


The problem with AS-5's burn in is that you can't just install it and let it run or it will NEVER fully cure. You have to shut the system completely off and leave it off until the cpu and heatsink returns to room temp (normally 15 to 30 minutes or so) then restart it at least 3 or 4 times a day for 10 days for it to cure properly and obtain optimum temps. That comes directly from Arctic Silver, partly from their website and partly from their support department by telephone. It also needs to be cleaned and removed every 12 months or so necessitating going through that process all over again. It simply isn't worth it especially since it still won't provide temps as low as MX-2, MX-3, IC Diamond 7 or 24, ThermalFusion 400, or any number of other better TIMs.


----------



## Quatrix

Thanks. Next week I'll clean it off and try the stuff that came with the cooler. By the way, I've read about how to apply paste to the 212, but what about removing it? I haven't done it with a HDT heatsink before. Is it a pain to get out of the grooves?


----------



## PapaSmurf

It can be. I use Isopropyl Alcohol and a paper towel to get as much as I can and then use an old toothbrush with Iso to clean out the grooves. The main think is to NOT use rubbing alcohol as that contains petroleum by-products that can leave an oily residue that acts as an insulator which hinders proper heat transfer.


----------



## Quatrix

Didn't know there was a difference. My bottle says "isopropyl rubbing alcohol", and the ingredients are 91% isopropyl alcohol plus purified water.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Rubbing alcohol has a lubricant that allows the hands to glide across the skin without chafing or sticking. Isopropyl alcohol doesn't have a lubricant. If all it lists as ingredients is Iso and purified water it isn't rubbing alcohol. Looks like whoever manufactured that bottle mislabeled it or doesn't know what they are doing, but that should be safe to use.


----------



## Krusher33

Be sure to let it completely dry though.


----------



## Ellis

Mine arrived in the post this morning along with a couple of Fractal Design 140mm fans. I wish that I got some Gentle Typhoons over these Fractal Design fans, but I'm really happy with the Hyper 212+.


----------



## Quatrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ellis*


Mine arrived in the post this morning...


For the Q8200?


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quatrix*


For the Q8200?


Yeah.









*EDIT:* I was talking about my Hyper 212+, not rubbing alcohol or whatever the previous topic was about.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Does anyone else find the Blademaster fan that came with the HSF a little loud? idk if its advertised as a quiet fan or not, but I don't find it very quiet at all. 
I have a few fluid dynamic bearing fan's running it push/pull and the blademaster as a case fan.


----------



## Mmmmbaato

I got a Hyper 212+ a couple weeks ago! LOVE THIS THING. Never breaks 45C on load. I can join, yes?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


Does anyone else find the Blademaster fan that came with the HSF a little loud? idk if its advertised as a quiet fan or not, but I don't find it very quiet at all. 
I have a few fluid dynamic bearing fan's running it push/pull and the blademaster as a case fan.


I don't find either of mine to be that loud. I know both of mine are quieter than my Hi Speed Yate Loons. But since my rigs run at 99-100% cpu load 24/7/365 I need the cooling that fans like them provide. Quieter fans won't move as much air or have the static pressure to keep the temps where they are now so I can't resort to using them.

But that's the problem. Do you want maximum cooling or quiet? Each person has to decide that for themselves and pick appropriate hardware to achieve that goal. But I can't imagine a Blademaster being quieter and when used as a case fan than it is as a heatsink fan. In fact, I tend to see just the opposite.


----------



## Ellis

Does anyone know why my CPU fan is now stuck at 100% constantly? I unplugged it for a bit to try it passively, decided that there was barely any noise difference so it wasn't worth it, plugged it back in and now it won't go to anything but 100%.









My fan control settings in the BIOS hadn't changed, and I tried changing them so that it would stay at lower speeds, but it just wants to be at 100% all the time.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;12973640*
> Does anyone know why my CPU fan is now stuck at 100% constantly? I unplugged it for a bit to try it passively, decided that there was barely any noise difference so it wasn't worth it, plugged it back in and now it won't go to anything but 100%.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My fan control settings in the BIOS hadn't changed, and I tried changing them so that it would stay at lower speeds, but it just wants to be at 100% all the time.


That would be a bios issue, not a fan issue. I'm not familiar with MSI's bios settings. Try setting the bios to PWM and letting the bios control the speed automatically. I know on my Gigabyte boards I either have to use PWM and let the bios handle it or go to manual control and use SpeedFan to control the fan speed. If I un-plug a fan and then plug it back in it resets itself back to 100% and I have to fire up SpeedFan again to lower the rpm. It will stay at that lower speed when I reboot even if I don't start SpeedFan.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Maybe the fan likes to have some back-pressure?
I have it mounted as the rear exhaust and I've got the metal grills cut out, so its completely open and the fans off the Hyper 212+ feed the Blademaster.. Which means the Blademaster is pretty much just making sure there's no eddy's of hot air in the case.

The Blademaster runs 1300RPM as its lowest speed, in my system. I've found it whines less when its spinning slightly faster, but it turns into a freakin' banshee once it goes above 1450-1500RPM lol


----------



## PapaSmurf

I have a pair of them in P/P on one of my 212+'s and all I hear is a gentle whoosh sound and they are running at full speed..


----------



## Dirtyworks

Maybe the 2 of us judge noise differently from one another - I even have a case lined with sound absorbing foam.
I played with the BIOS settings a little and managed to get the minimum speed down to 900RPM (from 1300RPM), which has quieted the whine a bit. But I'm going to replace this fan with another one with a fluid dynamic bearing.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I doubt we judge it that much difference. I know what a whine is as I have had numerous fans do that over the years. Neither of mine have anything that could even be remotely referred to as a whine. The noise is close to what a house box fan produces, but at a much less audible level.

But I'm not trying to talk you out of changing the fans. Each persons audible level is different. All I suggest is that you make sure the new fans have a fairly high Static Pressure of 2.5 or higher. Plus I don't want people to think that the whine is inherent to all of them.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12973892*
> That would be a bios issue, not a fan issue. I'm not familiar with MSI's bios settings. Try setting the bios to PWM and letting the bios control the speed automatically. I know on my Gigabyte boards I either have to use PWM and let the bios handle it or go to manual control and use SpeedFan to control the fan speed. If I un-plug a fan and then plug it back in it resets itself back to 100% and I have to fire up SpeedFan again to lower the rpm. It will stay at that lower speed when I reboot even if I don't start SpeedFan.


My BIOS has a funny way of dealing with fan control - it has a "smart fan target", which can be set from 40C right up to 70C. It then has "minimum fan speed" which can be set from 0% up to a maximum which I can't remember. I had it set to a 50C target with a minimum fan speed of 37.5%.

You can turn off smart fan completely, of course, which usually just sets the fan to 100% permanently.

I've never been able to get SpeedFan to control my fan speed. Not once.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Not all motherboards work with SpeedFan. You have to go into Configure, then Advanced and select the chipset that controls the fans before you can do it. I don't have any idea what that one would be on your board, but it should be one of the first ones probably linked to the ISA bus.


----------



## Ellis

I can find the chipset which controls my fans in the advanced menu, but then what do I do?


----------



## PapaSmurf

This is how we set it on out Gigabyte boards. You'll probably have to select a different chipset, but the concept should be the same.

http://www.overclock.net/8237844-post2.html


----------



## Ellis

Nope, the settings are different enough that I can't transfer that to what I've got.

Thank for your help though, perhaps it's time to get a new motherboard seeing as there are now 1,000,001 things on the list of why I don't like this one.

I'd love a UD3P but they're hard to find and expensive in the UK









Well, not compared to some motherboards, but still.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Tell me about it. I just found a used UD3R that I have coming next week.

You might want to post in that thread I linked you to or start a new one about it. Maybe someone else will have some ideas about how to go about it. I only figured it out a few months ago myself thanks to that thread.


----------



## Ellis

For another build I guess?

I'd definitely be happy with a UD3R, although I can't remember what the UD3L is like. I might just get a P5Q because they're much easier to find used.


----------



## PapaSmurf

No, the UD3R will be going into my second rig (basically a dedicated folding rig/media center) replacing a P35-DS3L. The P35 will become my test/diagnostic rig that I use to check drives, ram, cpus, run virus scans on customer's hard drives, etc. replacing the 965P-DS3 I'm using for that now. The 965 with an E6420 (or an E4300) will go to my daughter to replace her Biostar TForce6100-939 AMD 3800X2. We'll be selling both of the TForce6100's and 3800X2's.

The UD3L is the budget version. It only has a 4pin cpu socket instead of the 8pin EPS which can hinder it's overclocking capabilities some. It also doesn't have LLC which causes it to have more vdroop than the UD3P/R which also hinders it's OC'ing. It also doesn't have raid on the Intel chipset nor does it have the extra Marvell SATA ports. No Firewire and a lower quality audio chipset. It's still a very nice board though for what it is. A lot of people would find it would meet their needs quite well.


----------



## Ellis

Ah, I see. I guess it really just depends on what is available, because it's extremely unlikely that I'll get a new board, both because there are barely any around anymore and because the ones that are are completely overpriced.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yep. That's why it took so long for me to get a second one. I ran into a deal that I couldn't pass up from someone who went to an iCore system.


----------



## marky_11

14c Idle and 40c Load =)
not bad?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Unless the room that the computer is in is around 50F either the sensors in the cpu are way off or the monitoring software isn't properly calibrated, at least for the idle temps. I can see the load temps being reasonably accurate in a normal 68-72f room.


----------



## deckrom

I traded out the stock fan on the Hyper 212 for this fan.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835705004

The new fan is 38mm width; wider than the blademaster. Is this a bad idea?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Depends. It might cool couple of degrees better, but it's going to be a LOT louder.


----------



## deckrom

I don't mind the noise. I was thinking the extra weight of the fan could pull on the heatsink effecting tension.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If you mount it correctly it shouldn't have any problem. There are much heavier heatsinks that don't have a problem.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deckrom;12992633*
> I traded out the stock fan on the Hyper 212 for this fan.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835705004
> 
> The new fan is 38mm width; wider than the blademaster. Is this a bad idea?


Woot! Wow... never too much airflow right?









Before you put it on do test with old fan and get temps and then put new one on. Give us your experience so that when others reading this thread they can see.

I have some medium 38mm Panaflos that I had considered putting on but now I might have other uses for it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;12995442*
> 
> Before you put it on do test with old fan and get temps and then put new one on. Give us your experience so that when others reading this thread they can see.


Agreed 100%. I'm thinking about a 2 or 3C decrease in temps based on how the big dog San Aces perform on a MegaHalems.


----------



## nowcontrol

Just ordered a second blademaster for the p/p config, along with a pair of the slim yate loons for the top of the case. I reckon it's still gonna be a really tight fit mounting the hyper 212+ horizontally tho with the slims up top, coz it's impossible with standard 25mm fans.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Sounds good. Be sure to keep us informed with how it goes.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12975184*
> *I doubt we judge it that much difference*. I know what a whine is as I have had numerous fans do that over the years. Neither of mine have anything that could even be remotely referred to as a whine. The noise is close to what a house box fan produces, but at a much less audible level.
> 
> But I'm not trying to talk you out of changing the fans. Each persons audible level is different. All I suggest is that you make sure the new fans have a fairly high Static Pressure of 2.5 or higher. Plus I don't want people to think that the whine is inherent to all of them.


I highly doubt I'd consider 2 fans @ 2000RPM a 'gentle woosh', so I'm fairly certain we judge what we consider noisy a little differently.
The fan seems to have quieted down a fair bit, after spinning a few hundred thousand times lol
Having been broken in, I think I'm going to keep it as my case fan. With its minimum speed being lowered to a much quieter 900RPM, and having the headroom to get 2000RPM, it will be nice for when things get hairy.


----------



## PapaSmurf

You might want to open up the BladeMaster and lube it. I've seen that help a lot of fans. I normally lube all of my fans prior to mounting them and once or twice a year after that.


----------



## Dirtyworks

I'd rather not cut into the plastic and void the warranty :\


----------



## *AcidBath*

Here's my club entry: A cheap, decent cooler that was the best I could find at the time (10/2010) to fit my 1156 i7 860, though I really hate its slotted contact surface (retry replacing the TIM)! I find the second fan, other than make more noise, does little more than to add better case airflow, which is a good thing IMO.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks;12999218*
> I'd rather not cut into the plastic and void the warranty :\


You don't cut into the plastic. You peel the sticker back, remove the rubber plug, then put a few drops of lube such as Sewing Machine Lube, Fishing Reel Lube, 3 in 1 oil (the non penetrating kind), or my personal favorite Rem-Oil in a bottle (not the spray). Replace the rubber plug, wipe any excess lube off of the hub, then replace the sticker (use a glue stick if it doesn't want to stick that well). No muss, no fuss, and they'll never know it was opened.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by **AcidBath*;12999284*
> Here's my club entry: A cheap, decent cooler that was the best I could find at the time (10/2010) to fit my 1156 i7 860, though I really hate its slotted contact surface (retry replacing the TIM)! I find the second fan, other than make more noise, does little more than to add better case airflow, which is a good thing IMO.


In the future please do everyone a favor and resize your images to 800x600 or 1024x768. Not everyone has unlimited bandwidth or a fast internet connection and find downloading a 3.5 to 4 meg image a real problem compared to a 1024x768 image that's 135kb's in size like this one I resized for you. There wasn't anything in your pic that warranted it being anywhere close to that large.


----------



## Dirtyworks

I know how to oil a fan, but the opening on the blademaster is sealed shut. Have you really oiled these fans?


----------



## *AcidBath*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12999402*
> In the future please do everyone a favor and resize your images to 800x600 or 1024x768. Not everyone has unlimited bandwidth or a fast internet connection and find downloading a 3.5 to 4 meg image a real problem compared to a 1024x768 image that's 135kb's in size like this one I resized for you. There wasn't anything in your pic that warranted it being anywhere close to that large.


Fixed my original post. Sorry about being a PITA,







I thought I'd linked a smaller version!!! Thanks!!!


----------



## ffejrxx

excellent instructions to oil/lube your fan here

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/773256-prepping-sleeve-bearing-fan-work.html


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks;12999495*
> I know how to oil a fan, but the opening on the blademaster is sealed shut. Have you really oiled these fans?


Now that you mention it I don't remember lubing them. I just pulled one off and looked at it and you are correct. They don't have the opening cut out so one would have to cut the plastic to lube them. Sorry I mislead you there. I got a lot of fans at the same time I got my 212+ and lost track of what I did and didn't lube.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Nuts, I was hoping you had a work around to doing it lol


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;12999843*
> Now that you mention it I don't remember lubing them. I just pulled one off and looked at it and you are correct. They don't have the opening cut out so one would have to cut the plastic to lube them. Sorry I mislead you there. I got a lot of fans at the same time I got my 212+ and lost track of what I did and didn't lube.


LOL... I didn't want to say anything for fear that I have it confused with another fan as well. I kinda remember something about not finding a way to do it.


----------



## Ellis

Papa, would you know what I meant if I talked about the ticking noise that fans make? I can't really describe it any better than that, but do you know if lubing it would help with that?

For the moment at least, I can't hear the ticking noise (from one of my FD 140mms), because I have the Blademaster pelting along at 2000RPM the entire time.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


LOL... I didn't want to say anything for fear that I have it confused with another fan as well. I kinda remember something about not finding a way to do it.


If it's bad you might want to contact CoolerMaster about replacing it. Normally they just ship out a replacement and don't ask for the bad one back. If that is the case you could always cut the hole out, or drill a small hole in the end cap to poke the nozzle of an oiler through it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ellis*


Papa, would you know what I meant if I talked about the ticking noise that fans make? I can't really describe it any better than that, but do you know if lubing it would help with that?

For the moment at least, I can't hear the ticking noise (from one of my FD 140mms), because I have the Blademaster pelting along at 2000RPM the entire time.










From what I understand lubing doesn't always help with a ticking noise, but it's worth a shot if you have a fan that can be easily taken apart and lubed. Some fans will do that at less than full speed, with it worse the slower they go. Tator Tot is the one who seems to know the most about that though. I've only run into it a couple of times on cheap fans that were basically worn out.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


If it's bad you might want to contact CoolerMaster about replacing it. Normally they just ship out a replacement and don't ask for the bad one back. If that is the case you could always cut the hole out, or drill a small hole in the end cap to poke the nozzle of an oiler through it.


I don't have any issues that I'm aware of yet but that's really good to know. Thanks! Just another reason why I'm liking this cooler.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I think that was meant for DirtyWorks who mentioned problems with the Ticking or other Noise of the fan. Too many posts today while trying to clone hard drives on three different systems. I hope I don't clone the wrong drive to the really wrong drive.









Plus with so many people using those Syrillian Avatars it's getting difficult to keep track of who is who around here. I like the sentiment and applaud people for supporting him, but it does get a bit confusing at times, and I get confused enough anyway.


----------



## jach11

Does anyone have a thought on powder coating the 212+? I wanted to get it powder coated black but i dont know if its really worth it..


----------



## PapaSmurf

I could see powder coating the very top fin, but not the rest of it. I've seen painted heatsinks that normally didn't cool as well as they did in their standard form. Paint and/or Powder Coating would tend to act as an insulator trapping the heat in so I personally wouldn't try it. Most of the black ones from the factory are anodized, not painted or powder coated as far as I know.

That's my take, but it's quite possible that someone else has had a different experience that they could share.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I think that was meant for DirtyWorks who mentioned problems with the Ticking or other Noise of the fan. Too many posts today while trying to clone hard drives on three different systems. I hope I don't clone the wrong drive to the really wrong drive.









Plus with so many people using those Syrillian Avatars it's getting difficult to keep track of who is who around here. I like the sentiment and applaud people for supporting him, but it does get a bit confusing at times, and I get confused enough anyway.


LOL, don't blame ya. Looking for new avatar and until then it will be this one.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I liked your old one. I was used to it.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13002082*
> If it's bad you might want to contact CoolerMaster about replacing it. Normally they just ship out a replacement and don't ask for the bad one back. If that is the case you could always cut the hole out, or drill a small hole in the end cap to poke the nozzle of an oiler through it.
> 
> From what I understand lubing doesn't always help with a ticking noise, but it's worth a shot if you have a fan that can be easily taken apart and lubed. Some fans will do that at less than full speed, with it worse the slower they go. Tator Tot is the one who seems to know the most about that though. I've only run into it a couple of times on cheap fans that were basically worn out.


Hmm, the fan in question is a Fractal Design Silent Series 140mm, running at full speed (800rpm, lol)

I think I'm going to get a UD3x or P5Q first though, and then take a look at it once I can actually hear the fan


----------



## Dirtyworks

I saw what papa smurf mentioned about talking to CM about replacement fans and I chatted with one of their reps and he said to put in a parts request. I may be able to get a replacement fan for my Hyper 212+. I think maybe it was sitting in a warehouse too long and the grease/oil dried up? idk, but hopefully a newer one won't be as noisy as this one is.


----------



## PapaSmurf

And if you get the new one and don't have to send the old one back you can cut into it and lube it up without fear of losing your warranty.


----------



## Quatrix

My core temperatures with an i7-2600K and Hyper 212 Plus were previously 28 - 57, 29 - 63, 33 - 64, and 30 - 60. Today I tweaked several things:

1. Cleaned off the heat sink and CPU and reinstalled.

2. Tried Smurf's suggestion and used CoolerMaster's paste instead of Arctic Silver 5.

3. Used three lines of paste instead of line-dot-line.

4. Filled in the grooves and leveled them off more carefully than last time.

5. Tightened the screws more. Last time I stopped at an arbitrary point before I ever felt resistance because I read advice against "overtightening". I guess that wasn't what they meant. This time I went all the way.

6. Tightened the screws more evenly, e.g. 3 turns each and repeat.

7. Added a "pull" fan (same CoolerMaster that comes with the cooler).

The result? At 80º F / 27º C ambient, here are my current core temperatures with the old ranges in parentheses:

Core 1: 27 - 57 (28 - 57)
Core 2: 27 - 62 (29 - 63)
Core 3: 32 - 64 (33 - 64)
Core 4: 28 - 60 (30 - 60)

In other words, temperatures are mostly identical and 1 - 2 degrees cooler at best. The results seem to support my earlier suspicion that this stuff doesn't make much of a difference. So much for two hours of work and $15 (fan + splitter).

Any ideas? Did I somehow botch one of the seven things above and cancel out any gains from the other six? I've read reports of i7-2600Ks loading at 38 degrees, which doesn't seem possible.


----------



## PapaSmurf

You tighten the screws until they hit bottom. Don't stop prior to that or it won't fully seat.

Most of the temps you will see listed on forums are with the system in a room with an ambient temp between 68 and 72F (20-22C), not 80F (27C). You would need to about about 10C to temps you find in forums to correspond to your temps. It isn't a direct difference either as the hotter the temps the greater the difference will be due to the fact that hotter ambient temps can't cool as well as colder temps will. So those 38C temps would be closer to 50C or so for your ambient room temps.


----------



## ffejrxx

its fairly common for intel cores to read different temps

iv seen alot of intel i5/7 cpus that have core temps +/- 5-10c from each other after several reseats

rarely will an amd cpu be outside of 5c when the tim is applied ocrrectly


----------



## Quatrix

I'd love to have 70-degree room temperatures more often. I'll blame my CPU temps on the South Florida weather then.

Still, I'm surprised that none of the things I changed made a difference, especially the CoolerMaster paste and extra fan. I'm thinking about adding an extra intake fan to my LIAN LI PC-K62, but that will probably be another $15 with no results.

I have zero concern about the current temperatures, and this CPU already blows away my Q9400 at lower temps and power, but I wanted to try overclocking out of curiosity if nothing else. I don't have a lot of wiggle room.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Can you post a pic of the inside of your case? We might see something that would help.

And putting a 120mm fan in the 5.25" drive bays has helped a lot of people with their cooling. You could move the PULL fan to the 5.25" bays a a trial to see what difference if any it makes with just the push fan. Who knows, you might find that works better than using it as a pull fan.


----------



## Quatrix

I'll take a photo the next time I take it apart, but it looks very similar to this:

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...82000x1500.jpg

Same case, video card in the same location, and most cables are stuffed behind the motherboard. What you can't see in the photo are the two exhaust fans on top and that the whole front is an open grill.

I've noticed that the heatsink itself stays pretty cool and CPU temperatures don't go up much if I remove both fans. That might suggest poor contact between the CPU and heatsink, but I've installed it twice with two different pastes and followed instructions and recommendations. When I removed the cooler earlier today, the paste coverage looked good. And although I didn't have the screws tight the first time, they're good now.

I had the same thought about trying the new fan as an extra intake, but I had the case opened up at the time anyway without much change in temps, so it didn't seem like an air flow issue. I'll give it a shot when there's a sale on a good 140mm 1,000-RPM fan.


----------



## PapaSmurf

If taking the side panel off doesn't change the temps much your probably just at the best that setup can do.

And remember that people lie a lot, especially about how high their OC is and still remains stable and the temps their cpus run at.


----------



## drew2128

Quick question.

The second fan would plug into what if I got the i5 2500k?

Do I have to buy a splitter?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Depends. If you want to have the motherboard control the fan speed via PWM then yes you would need a PWM Splitter. There is a link to a couple of reasonably priced ones with free shipping in the 212+ FAQ (link in my sig). While you don't have to do it, some people will cut the yellow rpm sense wire on one side of the PWM splitter. It will still work properly if you don't, but the rpm readouts in the bios and various software programs like SpeedFan, HWMoniter, etc will add the two fans rpm's together showing a pair of 2,000 rpm fans as spinning at 4,000 rpm. The main thing is to make sure that the second fan is identical to the original. Again, there is a link to the proper fan in the 212+ Faq.


----------



## drew2128

Ok i purchased the same exact fan but what would be the best way to do it?

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556088752.html

or

http://www.svc.com/mfpp.html

or attach it to another mobo header?


----------



## 179232

Add me to the club. Just got my 212+ today and I am loving it!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drew2128*


Ok i purchased the same exact fan but what would be the best way to do it?

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556088752.html

or

http://www.svc.com/mfpp.html

or attach it to another mobo header?


Nither of those options will give you PWM control of the fans. The splitter you need is one of these.

http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12.html or http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12bks.html

That will allow the bios to control the fan speed. When the cpu is at idle or under a light load the fans will spin fairly slowly and be quieter. When the load increases and the temp rises the fans will speed up to deal with the additional temp, but will be a bit noisier.

Your other option is to forget the splitter, plug the fans in any way you can, and run them at full speed or get a fan controller and manually control the fan speed. All three are good options. It just depends on your preference and the way you use your system as to which will be best for you.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Updated the Hyper 212+ FAQ to reflect both the un-sleeved and the sleeved PWM Y-Splitter as well as information on the yellow RPM sense wire.


----------



## Quatrix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


And putting a 120mm fan in the 5.25" drive bays has helped a lot of people with their cooling.


I decided to test that without unplugging and taking apart the PC again. I stuck a 38" tower fan right in front of the case and aimed the air through the front grill, toward the Hyper 212. Maximum temperatures were about two degrees cooler, so the CPU did benefit slightly from fresher air. Obviously a case fan doesn't push as much air as a 38" tower, but maybe another intake is worth trying if I have nothing better to do.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I'm thinking that it's just the high ambient temps you have. I don't think putting a 120mm fanin the 5.25" bay is going to help much.

About the only thing I can think of is to check and make sure that the base of the heatsink is perfectly flush with the heatpipes and that the IHS of the cpu is perfectly flat.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Updated the 212+ Faq with a link to a review to a Vortex.net comparison of several heatsinks including the 212+ and some of the higher end ones. Well worth a look see for anyone wondering how the 212+ stacks up against the the top heatsinks.

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages...review,10.html


----------



## drew2128

Quick question:

1. So I wet sand the 212+ flat
2. fill inner channels with Tim (but do I let the tim dry in the channels before applying the grain sized tim and seating the Hyper or do I fill the channels then put 2 lines on the heatsink and put down on the processor right away?


----------



## PapaSmurf

I wouldn't let the TIM dry in the channels and I would apply the TIM as per the information in the 212+ Faq (link in my sig).


----------



## ffejrxx

you can sand it, but i wouldnt

heatpipes are often filled with a gas/liquid that changes states to help transfer heat more effectively


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;13046923*
> you can sand it, but i wouldnt
> 
> heatpipes are often filled with a gas/liquid that changes states to help transfer heat more effectively


I think he was referring to sanding down the base so that the heatpipes actually comes in contact with the cpu. If not, then my bad.

But yeah, careful of the heatpipes. I heard they're quite thin.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13042664*
> Updated the 212+ Faq with a link to a review to a Vortex.net comparison of several heatsinks including the 212+ and some of the higher end ones. Well worth a look see for anyone wondering how the 212+ stacks up against the the top heatsinks.
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/prolimatech_super_mega_cpu_cooler_review,10.html


Sorry but I didn't read the whole review and instead just looked at the charts. Were the fans running at full speed? So a pair of Noctua's 1200rpm fans yielded same results (or close to it) as the Blademaster running at 2000rpm?


----------



## Fooliobass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quatrix;13032687*
> I decided to test that without unplugging and taking apart the PC again. I stuck a 38" tower fan right in front of the case and aimed the air through the front grill, toward the Hyper 212. Maximum temperatures were about two degrees cooler, so the CPU did benefit slightly from fresher air. Obviously a case fan doesn't push as much air as a 38" tower, but maybe another intake is worth trying if I have nothing better to do.


It sounds like your overall case pressure may be a bit off of neutral. It sounds like you may just need more intake pressure. Possibly try a stronger intake fan.


----------



## Andrea87

Signed to the club.

An Hyper 212+ is cooling my 965BE @ 4GHz 1.55V. Stock fan, set at low speed from the bios for optimal silence.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrea87;13048893*
> Signed to the club.
> 
> An Hyper 212+ is cooling my 965BE @ 4GHz 1.55V. Stock fan, set at low speed from the bios for optimal silence.


And the temps looking good?


----------



## jyk

Hi,

I have an ASrock 870 Extreme3 mobo, does anyone know if the Hyper 212 Plus interferes with the RAM slots - I have G.SKILL Ripjaws Series F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM. I want all ram slots available.

If it does fit - what would work,

thanks,

Jyk


----------



## Dirtyworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jyk;13050431*
> Hi,
> 
> I have an ASrock 870 Extreme3 mobo, does anyone know if the Hyper 212 Plus interferes with the RAM slots - I have G.SKILL Ripjaws Series F3-10666CL8D-4GBRM. I want all ram slots available.
> 
> If it does fit - what would work,
> 
> thanks,
> 
> Jyk


The motherboard I have the Hyper 212+ on has less space than that and, with a 25mm thick fan, there should be just enough clearance. You might have to slide the fan up the heatsink a bit


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ffejrxx*


you can sand it, but i wouldnt

heatpipes are often filled with a gas/liquid that changes states to help transfer heat more effectively


No, they are ALWAYS filled otherwise they don't work at all. Sanding (or more precisely lapping) the heatsink base is fine, but one has to be very careful when lapping the heatpipes. Normally with a heatpipe direct contact heatsink if there is a contact problem it's due to the heatpipes being set too far into the heatsink base so it's only the base that needs to be dealt with. Then a few swipes with some very fine sandpaper like 1000 to 1200 grit to smooth out the heatpipes and you are good to go.


----------



## Andrea87

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


And the temps looking good?


Temps are good, about 35Â°C idle and 50-55Â°C load. Fan is set at "quiet" on the bios, I think temps are ok considering the overvolt. I suppose it's a little dusty too, it's like a month I don't clean my pc with an air compressor







. It's getting a little hot there, today it was 27Â°c, so I suppose tomorrow I'm going to do some cleanup work and then check temps.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


I saw what papa smurf mentioned about talking to CM about replacement fans and I chatted with one of their reps and he said to put in a parts request. I may be able to get a replacement fan for my Hyper 212+. I think maybe it was sitting in a warehouse too long and the grease/oil dried up? idk, but hopefully a newer one won't be as noisy as this one is.


My request was approved and they're sending me another fan








Hopefully this is a more recently made model and hasn't been sitting in a warehouse forever


----------



## r3vo1ution1991

Got one on my i7 2600k and it almost didn't fit in my case! where it's taking up space is where a 200mm fan could go, but I can't do that now with the 212+!


----------



## Xcrunner

which fan would be better to run if I am just using one fan for now... the stock fan or

  this one ? I have both but don't know what fans work best for this heatsink


----------



## Quantum Reality

Hey all! Got a Hyper 212+ on sale a while ago and I've just mounted it onto my Core i5 760







Pics shortly, but one thing I've got to say that I like is that the fins don't obstruct the motherboard screws as badly as my OCZ Vendetta did, and the easily-removable fan makes working around the socket a breeze.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The stock BladeMaster is a better fan. It has more static pressure which is what forces the air through the fins. The R4 doesn't have PWM either like the Stock BladeMaster does so you can set the bios to run the fan speed via PWM so it speeds up when you do something that is cpu intensive and slows down when you aren't. That can make a lot of difference in how quiet the system is.


----------



## jyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks;13050902*
> The motherboard I have the Hyper 212+ on has less space than that and, with a 25mm thick fan, there should be just enough clearance. You might have to slide the fan up the heatsink a bit


Cheers! that what I need to know...

+1 rep!

Jyk


----------



## Xcrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13055988*
> The stock BladeMaster is a better fan. It has more static pressure which is what forces the air through the fins. The R4 doesn't have PWM either like the Stock BladeMaster does so you can set the bios to run the fan speed via PWM so it speeds up when you do something that is cpu intensive and slows down when you aren't. That can make a lot of difference in how quiet the system is.


Thanks papa


----------



## PapaSmurf

No problem.


----------



## Polarity

I will install the 212 plus on a 1155 the same way as 1156?


----------



## Rust1d?

Yes


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EffnNice;13066892*
> I will install the 212 plus on a 1155 the same way as 1156?


Depends on the motherboard. The mounting holes are the same, but the components around the socket on the back of the board are different on some of the 1155 boards so you have to make absolutely sure that you aren't shorting out against of them or crushing them. I haven't heard any reports of a problem with the Hyper 212+ yet, but I know the CM V6 has a problem and appears to use the same backplate. BE VERY CAREFUL mounting it on a 155 system.

I just found out about it yesterday and will be adding this to the 212+ Faq in a few minutes.


----------



## PapaSmurf

FAQ updated with info on the potential 1155 mounting problem.

One thing I forgot in the above message, but did post in the Updated FAQ is that one site is recommending getting 4 nylong washers to place between the motherboard and the backplate to isolate it from making contact with any electrical components and cause a short.


----------



## johnadams

proud owner of a 212+ on an i7 860. idle temps are 22C. amazing for $30


----------



## Polarity

Ima be adding my 212+ on my ud4 board


----------



## Quantum Reality

One thing - if you have a Cooler Master Storm Scout, the bottom of the bracket will just clear the lip of the open square on the motherboard tray. I think the grey coating is electrically nonconductive, but you may still want to get some black electrician's tape just in case.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*


One thing - if you have a Cooler Master Storm Scout, the bottom of the bracket will just clear the lip of the open square on the motherboard tray. I think the grey coating is electrically nonconductive, but you may still want to get some black electrician's tape just in case.


It depends on the motherboard as to where they place the CPU socket so not all boards will have that issue. For the most part Intel boards won't have a problem. It's the AMD boards that are more likely to have the cpu sockets off to one side or below the opening. But it doesn't matter if the backplate is touching the motherboard tray metal to metal anyway as there is no electricity running through either component. What you need to watch is the backplate touching the motherboard itself metal to metal. THAT will cause a problem. I cut an opening for the backplate in one of my cases and didn't quite get it lined up perfectly (I was trying to make the hole as small as possible). The backplate pressed directly against the motherboard try with metal to metal contact. It's my sig rig and it's running like a champ and has since I got the 212+ last year.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EffnNice*


Ima be adding my 212+ on my ud4 board


I have no specific knowledge on specific socket 1155 motherboards. Unless someone has that board and knows for sure you will need to follow the instructions I posted previously about it.


----------



## Quantum Reality

Hey







Pics of my 212+ as promised.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That's a Storm Scout case right? If so you should check in the Storm Scout Thread for guides in cable management. There is a lot you can do to clean up the cable routing that will make that thing look better and improve overall airflow. Be fore warned though as that thread get is addicting. It's the 2nd or 3rd largest thread on OCN and one of the most active.


----------



## Quantum Reality

Believe me, I've tried my best at cable management and I just apparently suck at it.







The way I see it, as long as nothing gets chewed up by a fan, I'm happy.


----------



## PapaSmurf

At least you have a case with some room to work in. I wouldn't post a pic of my sig if my life depended on it. Between a full sized ATX mobo, 6 hard drives, and 2 graphics card that little Elite is stuffed tot he gills. I've tried cutting holes in the mobo tray to try and route some of them to the backside, but there isn't nearly enough room back there for all of them. Add in a case that has the front to back hard drive bays and you really have a problem. I gotta get a bigger case with sideways drive racks.


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:



At least you have a case with some room to work in. I wouldn't post a pic of my sig if my life depended on it. Between a full sized ATX mobo, 6 hard drives, and 2 graphics card that little Elite is stuffed tot he gills. I've tried cutting holes in the mobo tray to try and route some of them to the backside, but there isn't nearly enough room back there for all of them. Add in a case that has the front to back hard drive bays and you really have a problem. I gotta get a bigger case with sideways drive racks.


I would want to see that







. And would just like to through it out there that I get 46-47 degrees with full load not that anyone cares. I LOVE this thing


----------



## PapaSmurf

They are one heck of a heatsink for no more than you pay for them.


----------



## idaWHALE

Only way to improve is water IMO


----------



## mixxwell

I just picked up one from Fry's today and it's like $13 after rebate. Gotta love the great deal.


----------



## idaWHALE

Yeah man I did the same thing but 2 weeks ago. Fry's 4 life except I heard the rebate takes for ever


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*


Hey







Pics of my 212+ as promised.










see if you can flip the cpu fan upsidedown
so the power cable points down, and bundle it under the 212+

also it looks too clsoe to your gpu, see if you have an old 120mm fan to put on the other side of the 212+ and cut the motor out for a shroud, then the plastic bracket will hold it away from the gpu


----------



## mixxwell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *idaWHALE*


Yeah man I did the same thing but 2 weeks ago. Fry's 4 life except I heard the rebate takes for ever










Yeah it might take awhile sadly :\\ But usually all the MIR's I send in take AGES. But it's all good, good price for a good cooler!


----------



## Quantum Reality

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ffejrxx*


see if you can flip the cpu fan upsidedown
so the power cable points down, and bundle it under the 212+

also it looks too clsoe to your gpu, see if you have an old 120mm fan to put on the other side of the 212+ and cut the motor out for a shroud, then the plastic bracket will hold it away from the gpu


No way for me to flip the fan. As it is, I mounted it that way to keep the power cord from possibly being chewed by the top fan in my Storm Scout.

Yes, I realize how small the clearance is between my GPU and the heatsink, but barring an earthquake I don't think it will vibrate enough to cause contact. Besides, whether the heatsink is closer or further away - if it falls off it's going to wreak a crapton of havoc anyway.


----------



## kody7839

I've skimmed through a lot of post with pics (too many posts...haha), but I didn't see anyone else with a North/South orientation. My apologies if I missed anyone.

I've done a lot of testing with both E/W and N/S, both push and push/pull fans, and have found with my setup this works best.

All that hot air jets right out the the top fans and keeps everything nice and cool. Right now I have a Coolermaster R4 Series as my pull fan, but will be putting in another Blademaster on once it arrives along with my PWM splitter.

The pic makes it looks like it real close to the RAM heatsinks, but there is a good amount of space there. It does block the one DIMM slot if I want add more memory, but I have no plans for that at this time.


----------



## idaWHALE

I wouldn't hesitate to do this but my case doesn't have any fan slots on top .... yet haha


----------



## Quantum Reality

I had to use the north-south orientation with my AMD CPU and a Vendetta 2; I wasn't totally happy about it.

I was always given to understand, though, that the preferred east-west orientation was supposed to work better in terms of drawing air across the fins and out the back without pulling hot air off the GPU?


----------



## Ellis

Swapped the Blademaster fan for an Xilence Red Wing that I had lying around - so much quieter. I'd be perfectly happy using the Blademaster if my motherboard would actually control it, though.


----------



## kody7839

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*


I had to use the north-south orientation with my AMD CPU and a Vendetta 2; I wasn't totally happy about it.

I was always given to understand, though, that the preferred east-west orientation was supposed to work better in terms of drawing air across the fins and out the back without pulling hot air off the GPU?


I was worried about the graphics card as well, but after testing both with controlled ambient temperature I found the N/S setup to run about 2-3C cooler at load. I'm betting it is simply because I have an intake fan running at the bottom along with the 2 exhausts on the top causing a good bit of upward flow. Plus I have a 120 side intake fan that blows right on top of the backplate on the graphics card, so that stay pretty cool under load as well. If I put another fan in the 5.25 bays pushing toward the back, it may be different. But I'm looking to quiet things down as the hot summer approaches and move to W/C.


----------



## Krusher33

My concern from by N/S setup is air flowing over ram sticks and VRM's. I suppose the back fan is helping the VRM's and the top fan on right is helping the RAM. I hope?


----------



## poyyiee

can i join da club? just got the cooler 2weeks ago







..but, my 3.6Ghz i5 760 got 41-44c idle temp..should i be concern? does the base need lapping?


----------



## Andrea87

I did some lapping on my grandfather's one, it isn't badly needed btw. As a suggestion, check your termal paste (it eats a lot of it, due to the space between the direct contact heatpipes and the mounting piece), maybe fill that areas before applying the heatsink. Also, make sure your airflow goes well through the heatsink, ie the fan pulls the air as it comes to the exhaust fans.

On my side, I've got a spare fan from a friend's build, who went for a super-silent fan instead of the stock CM one. Just ordered a Y-adapter, will try a dual fan setup in the next days


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13097154*
> My concern from by N/S setup is air flowing over ram sticks and VRM's. I suppose the back fan is helping the VRM's and the top fan on right is helping the RAM. I hope?


With all the fans chugging, air movement is not a problem in the case. Everything is running cool and comfortable.

Just to be clear, I'm trying to advocate the use of N/S orientation for everyone, I was just surprised not to see another person with it. It wasn't my first choice either, but between switching from an i5 to an i7 and having to swap the motherboard out due to the recall I had chance to take this thing apart a more a few times. In that time I figured I would test it out for giggles. Sure enough, it came back cooler running this way test after test.

I also wouldn't recommend it to someone who does not have top venting exhaust fans. That would just be silly.


----------



## nowcontrol

I have my hyper setup in N/S config and my temps are fine all round 30 idle daytime, 26 idle at night and never goes over 55 loaded.


----------



## xxsashixx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kody7839;13097906*
> With all the fans chugging, air movement is not a problem in the case. Everything is running cool and comfortable.
> 
> Just to be clear, I'm trying to advocate the use of N/S orientation for everyone, I was just surprised not to see another person with it. It wasn't my first choice either, but between switching from an i5 to an i7 and having to swap the motherboard out due to the recall I had chance to take this thing apart a more a few times. In that time I figured I would test it out for giggles. Sure enough, it came back cooler running this way test after test.
> 
> I also wouldn't recommend it to someone who does not have top venting exhaust fans. That would just be silly.


Concering the N/S setup.. wouldn't the push fan be pushing hot air into the heatsink from the graphics card?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxsashixx;13099891*
> Concering the N/S setup.. wouldn't the push fan be pushing hot air into the heatsink from the graphics card?


Isn't that pretty much true in either setup?


----------



## xxsashixx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13100008*
> Isn't that pretty much true in either setup?


no? if airflow is E/W then it will be grabbin air from the front intake fan if your case has one.

My air flow is E/W with top exhaust as well and bottom intake. (CMATCS840) which is the best setup?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxsashixx;13100040*
> no? if airflow is E/W then it will be grabbin air from the front intake fan if your case has one.
> 
> My air flow is E/W with top exhaust as well and bottom intake. (CMATCS840) which is the best setup?


You just sent my head reeling thinking about all the different configurations that a case can have as far as fans goes. Front intake could be at bottom, top, or both. Does case have side panel fan? Is it over GPU, CPU, or both? And so on.

But if you think about it, commonly the side fan is over GPU and the front intake fan is at bottom. In either cases the airflow is going to pass the gpu's if the exhaust is at the top.

However in my case my PSU is mounted at bottom and pulling air away from GPU's. As I picture it, the front intake fan located at bottom is going out that way. The CPU fans is pulling air in from the vent on side panel where CPU is located and is exhausting through the top fans. In this case I don't think it'll matter if e/w or n/s.

So overall I think it varies from case to case.


----------



## xxsashixx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13100185*
> You just sent my head reeling thinking about all the different configurations that a case can have as far as fans goes. Front intake could be at bottom, top, or both. Does case have side panel fan? Is it over GPU, CPU, or both? And so on.
> 
> But if you think about it, commonly the side fan is over GPU and the front intake fan is at bottom. In either cases the airflow is going to pass the gpu's if the exhaust is at the top.
> 
> However in my case my PSU is mounted at bottom and pulling air away from GPU's. As I picture it, the front intake fan located at bottom is going out that way. The CPU fans is pulling air in from the vent on side panel where CPU is located and is exhausting through the top fans. In this case I don't think it'll matter if e/w or n/s.
> 
> So overall I think it varies from case to case.


okay.. so with my case, currently front intake, bottom intake, top and rear exhaust, PSU is bottom mounted but with fan facing down, which is better config?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxsashixx;13100237*
> okay.. so with my case, currently front intake, bottom intake, top and rear exhaust, PSU is bottom mounted but with fan facing down, which is better config?


Is this the case in your sig? Are you using the GPU external fan as in this picture? Hard to say since there's no side panel fan and the GPU are exhausting their own air.

If you're not using the GPU exhaust then I think E/W is better.










Edit: Just noticed the blue arrow by the GPU exhaust fan even though they do call it exhaust fan...


----------



## xxsashixx

no not using GPU duct and yea thats what I thought that E/W is better


----------



## kody7839

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxsashixx*


Concering the N/S setup.. wouldn't the push fan be pushing hot air into the heatsink from the graphics card?


That is what I thought at first. But I believe he combination of the 120mm fan blowing from the side panel, the 120mm fan blowing from the HDD cage, and the backplate on the GPU cause it not to be a problem. Even when folding and pulling full load on the GPU, the back is still cool. I mean there is a little heat, but nothing major. My graphics card never really gets above mid 60's anyway. When benching and testing it may get upward of 70, but never stays there long.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xxsashixx*


no not using GPU duct and yea thats what I thought that E/W is better


Like I said, I don't think it is for everyone. But after testing I can say with certainty that it runs cooler in N/S in my setup than it does E/W. It's also worth noting that I have my exhaust fans on the top running at 2000RPM, so with all that air being sucked up at such great force it was probably disrupting the front to back flow. I do this because I leave the CPU and 2 GPU's folding when I'm not using the box, so I like to keep everything as cool as possible.

Obviously everyone is going to get different results based on their individual setups.


----------



## EvilTekno

Just came in today, decided to order a 2nd fan for it.

Perhaps someone can shed some more light on the question I'm having.
I have the blademaster that came with the Hyper 212 and have another one on the way.

I also have two spare cooler master sickleflow 120 fans.

My debate is what's best...

Should i hook one blademaster up to the CPU_fan on the mobo and one to the cha_fan? In this scenario I assume I should have my push fan on the cpu_fan and the pull fan on cha_fan, will the fact the cpu_fan might change speed due to heat and the cha_fan won't cause an issue?

Should I get a pwm splitter and run both blademasters on the single cpu_fan? I'm not 100% sure on the issues this could cause and what the risk of overloading the cpu_fan header is?

Or should I hook up my two sickleflow's, hook them up to molex's running to the psu and just have them run at 100% 24/7?

My mobo is a asus p8p67.

Any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## nowcontrol

Yes, get a pwm splitter and run both blademasters from the cpu header.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *EvilTekno*


Just came in today, decided to order a 2nd fan for it.

Perhaps someone can shed some more light on the question I'm having.
I have the blademaster that came with the Hyper 212 and have another one on the way.

I also have two spare cooler master sickleflow 120 fans.

My debate is what's best...

Should i hook one blademaster up to the CPU_fan on the mobo and one to the cha_fan? In this scenario I assume I should have my push fan on the cpu_fan and the pull fan on cha_fan, will the fact the cpu_fan might change speed due to heat and the cha_fan won't cause an issue?

Should I get a pwm splitter and run both blademasters on the single cpu_fan? I'm not 100% sure on the issues this could cause and what the risk of overloading the cpu_fan header is?

Or should I hook up my two sickleflow's, hook them up to molex's running to the psu and just have them run at 100% 24/7?

My mobo is a asus p8p67.

Any advice would be appreciated.


You can try running both off of PWM (4 pin) fan headers on the mobo, but a PWM splitter works best as it keeps both fans running in sync. See the 212+ Faq (link in my sig) for mor information.


----------



## krnb0iek

Just replaced my Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev. 2 with the CM Hyper 212+. Is it just me, or is the fan on my Hyper 212+ loud? My AC Freezer 7 was virtually silent.


----------



## PapaSmurf

The BladeMaster that comes with the 212+ might be a bit louder than the one on the AC Freezer 7, but it moves a LOT more air and cools a lot better as well. If your motherboard supports it you might want to try running it in PWM mode and let the motherboard control the fan speed.


----------



## Ellis

I had the Freezer 7 Pro (not the revision 2) and I found the Blademaster to be a fair bit quieter, both at idle and under load.

But perhaps that would have been different if I wasn't using PWM.


----------



## PapaSmurf

With PWM the BladeMaster wouldn't have to spin as fast to cool as well as the Freezer 7 Pro would so it would more than likely be quieter when controlled by PWM unless you have a very high OC. Even then, they aren't that different from what I have experienced.


----------



## Krusher33

Just recently enabled smart fan control in my motherboard and rig shut down on me last night during a round of BC2.







I didn't have temp monitor log going on either.


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


The BladeMaster that comes with the 212+ might be a bit louder than the one on the AC Freezer 7, but it moves a LOT more air and cools a lot better as well. If your motherboard supports it you might want to try running it in PWM mode and let the motherboard control the fan speed.


PWM.. is that the smart fan control? I heard it's better to just not use this feature. Is this true? I currently have it disabled. The 212+ does however cool my CPU better than the Freezer 7. I just thought it would have been quiet as well since larger fans are generally quieter and push more air at lower speeds.


----------



## ffejrxx

pwm, qfan, faneq ect.. (different boad mfgs call it different names)

all do similar things to control the fan speeds

off will run the fan at 100% all the time
enabled will ramp the fan speed up as the temp rises
bios should have minimum/max speed and desired temp settings


----------



## Dirtyworks

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krnb0iek*


PWM.. is that the smart fan control? I heard it's better to just not use this feature. Is this true? I currently have it disabled. The 212+ does however cool my CPU better than the Freezer 7. I just thought it would have been quiet as well since larger fans are generally quieter and push more air at lower speeds.


You get lower temps with it off, but as you noticed, its louder. Even with PWM ON, your temps will be lower. I noticed, switching from a Freezer 7 Pro, that my load temps were +10c lower even while the 212+ fan is under 1000RPM.


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*


You get lower temps with it off, but as you noticed, its louder. Even with PWM ON, your temps will be lower. I noticed, switching from a Freezer 7 Pro, that my load temps were +10c lower even while the 212+ fan is under 1000RPM.


With both heatsinks PWM off and fans running at 2000 RPM, what did you think about the noise level between the 2 heatsinks? Was your Freezer pretty much silent as well?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Depending on the motherboard the max RPM of the fan while running on PWN might be 5 to 10% lower than running it on manual. It doesn't happen on all boards, but it can at times. I know my Gigabyte P35-DS3L Rev 1.0 would run about 5% lower max rpm when running the [email protected] SMP Client which runs the cpu at 100% load. But with a fan as powerful as the BladeMaster even a 10% lower RPM would still be app. 1800 to 1850RPM's which would more than likely only raise temps by about 1C. The only problem I could see with PWM is if it takes too long to ramp the speed up, but that rarely happens.

PWM (the use of a FOUR wire fan connection on the motherboard( is the most precise method of automatic fan control. It is fine to use if you use your system like most people do to use the internet, do some e-mail, do some word processing, watch some videos, listen to music, etc. most of the time and do something more cpu intensive once in a while such as gaming, video editing, etc. One shouldn't have a problem with PWM in a situation like that. Where it's often times better to set the fans to run full speed all of the time is when you run something like [email protected] that runs your cpu at 100% load 24/7/365, do video rendering for long portions of the day, or are doing some extended benching runs or some serious OC'ing runs. In a situation like that it makes no sense to use PWM or any other automatic fan control as you would want maximum cooling all of the time.

I know several people who save two or more bios profiles in their bios with the same OC's and different cooling settings like one with PWM for everyday use and one without PWM for extended gaming, video rendering, etc. and switch between them as needed. If you are going to be gaming you are probably going to be shutting other programs down anyway so the 2 minutes or so it takes to reboot and switch bios profiles isn't a big deal.

As for noise from the BladeMaster fans on the 212+ I haven't noticed them to be that loud. My 212+ has a pair of BladeMasters in Push/Pull running full speed all the time and that combination is actually slightly quieter than my AC Freezer 7 Pro is. In fact, if my system with the BladeMasters is the only system I have running I can barely hear the fans at all. The only time they are noticeable is when I have the system with the BladeMasters on the 212+ and the one with the pair of High Speed Yate Loons on the 212+ are sitting side by side and running at the same time. I can definitely hear the combined noise of the two then. When I was setting up the secondary rig last weekend and doing some tests the rigs with the BladeMasters and Yates were running about 3 feet from me while the test system with the Freezer 7 was about 6 feet away and I could hear the single Freezer over the combined noise from the Yates and BladeMasters. Admittedly the Freezer has been used for 4 years and the BladeMasters less than 1 year, but that's the results I'm getting.


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Depending on the motherboard the max RPM of the fan while running on PWN might be 5 to 10% lower than running it on manual. It doesn't happen on all boards, but it can at times. I know my Gigabyte P35-DS3L Rev 1.0 would run about 5% lower max rpm when running the [email protected] SMP Client which runs the cpu at 100% load. But with a fan as powerful as the BladeMaster even a 10% lower RPM would still be app. 1800 to 1850RPM's which would more than likely only raise temps by about 1C. The only problem I could see with PWM is if it takes too long to ramp the speed up, but that rarely happens.

PWM (the use of a FOUR wire fan connection on the motherboard( is the most precise method of automatic fan control. It is fine to use if you use your system like most people do to use the internet, do some e-mail, do some word processing, watch some videos, listen to music, etc. most of the time and do something more cpu intensive once in a while such as gaming, video editing, etc. One shouldn't have a problem with PWM in a situation like that. Where it's often times better to set the fans to run full speed all of the time is when you run something like [email protected] that runs your cpu at 100% load 24/7/365, do video rendering for long portions of the day, or are doing some extended benching runs or some serious OC'ing runs. In a situation like that it makes no sense to use PWM or any other automatic fan control as you would want maximum cooling all of the time.

I know several people who save two or more bios profiles in their bios with the same OC's and different cooling settings like one with PWM for everyday use and one without PWM for extended gaming, video rendering, etc. and switch between them as needed. If you are going to be gaming you are probably going to be shutting other programs down anyway so the 2 minutes or so it takes to reboot and switch bios profiles isn't a big deal.

As for noise from the BladeMaster fans on the 212+ I haven't noticed them to be that loud. My 212+ has a pair of BladeMasters in Push/Pull running full speed all the time and that combination is actually slightly quieter than my AC Freezer 7 Pro is. In fact, if my system with the BladeMasters is the only system I have running I can barely hear the fans at all. The only time they are noticeable is when I have the system with the BladeMasters on the 212+ and the one with the pair of High Speed Yate Loons on the 212+ are sitting side by side and running at the same time. I can definitely hear the combined noise of the two then. When I was setting up the secondary rig last weekend and doing some tests the rigs with the BladeMasters and Yates were running about 3 feet from me while the test system with the Freezer 7 was about 6 feet away and I could hear the single Freezer over the combined noise from the Yates and BladeMasters. Admittedly the Freezer has been used for 4 years and the BladeMasters less than 1 year, but that's the results I'm getting.


That's strange since my Freezer was about a year old and was very silent. With none of my case fans on, I was barely able to hear it and would have go look at the fan to see that it was running. And this is in a fairly quiet room with no other background noise. My BladeMaster, on the other hand, is 1 day old and seems louder than usual to me. It's even louder than my 2 80mm cheap Masscool case fans. I know sound/loudness is all subjective, but is this normal?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Doesn't sound normal to me. But I have seen some recent posts where people have been complaining that their BladeMasters are louder than they expected them to be. It's possible that there was a bad batch that got out or CM might have changed the manufacturer of them recently.


----------



## Krusher33

My thoughts too. Seems like more and more complaining of it lately.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I wish I have a decibel meter here to measure how loud mine actually are. I will say that mine did seem to be noticeably quieter after they ran for a couple of days, but I've experienced that with a lot of fans over the years. For some I think it has to do with the difference in the tone level or pitch of the sound. If it's considerably different to what you are used to one can perceive the new fan to be louder than it actually is. That's due to your noticing a different sound more than one you have grown used to.

I can also see how someone who has the 212+ mounted so the fans blow up instead of front to back could have a different sound or their fans could be louder. This is because sleeve bearing fans should ideally be mounted to blow air in a horizontal direction. When you mount them to blow air in a vertical direction it changes the bearing load and if the bearing isn't lubricated as well as they should they will more than likely be louder than they would be blowing horizontally.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13116161*
> I wish I have a decibel meter here to measure how loud mine actually are. I will say that mine did seem to be noticeably quieter after they ran for a couple of days, but I've experienced that with a lot of fans over the years. For some I think it has to do with the difference in the tone level or pitch of the sound. If it's considerably different to what you are used to one can perceive the new fan to be louder than it actually is. That's due to your noticing a different sound more than one you have grown used to.
> 
> I can also see how someone who has the 212+ mounted so the fans blow up instead of front to back could have a different sound or their fans could be louder. This is because sleeve bearing fans should ideally be mounted to blow air in a horizontal direction. When you mount them to blow air in a vertical direction it changes the bearing load and if the bearing isn't lubricated as well as they should they will more than likely be louder than they would be blowing horizontally.


Make sense to me.


----------



## Quantum Reality

I can't say I've noticed a sound problem. I purchased the 212+ at the same time as my GTX 460, and both were actually quite a long time ago. So I might have gotten a previous batch with a different fan compared to some of you.


----------



## staryoshi

I'm a member... I've used higher-end coolers before, just kinda coasting for now








Also, GT AP14s strike the best balance of performance/noise of any fan out there IMO. I'm a GT fan. (Pun I guess)

I may replace it soon with a Ven X, H70 (which I owned for a bit







), or a water loop... Who knows, I really shouldn't but I may anyway









I no longer have the 2nd GTX560 pictured.


----------



## Andrea87

Got the y adapter today, so I set the second fan on the hyper212.

Some pics here, by clicking on the image here you can access the highres version (2400x1600 average). All pics were taken with my D90 and the 50mm F/1.8 lens, exif data should be available on both versions of the photos.

Ready to go...


Needs some Cleanup...


Clean and ready...


Cleaned base


Heatsink back on


Time for some dual fan work.
After having cleared everything, and set back on the system, I have done some temps measurements, gone from 56-57°C at full load to 51-52, which is a good thing considering my fans are going at low speed.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrea87;13121091*
> Got the y adapter today, so I set the second fan on the hyper212.
> 
> Some pics here, by clicking on the image here you can access the highres version (2400x1600 average). All pics were taken with my D90 and the 50mm F/1.8 lens, exif data should be available on both versions of the photos.
> 
> 
> Time for some dual fan work.
> After having cleared everything, and set back on the system, I have done some temps measurements, gone from 56-57°C at full load to 51-52, which is a good thing considering my fans are going at low speed.


Looks and sounds good to me. And props to anyone using a CM Centurion 5 case. I'm modding one to accept a 120mm fan in front of the 3.5" drive cages and added a cpu backplate access hole and several cable management holes. Now just need to get around to finish painting it once the weather stabilizes a bit.

If you can try pushing the PSU and fan wires a bit further out of the way and mount a 120mm fan in the 5.25" drive bays with zip ties. That might knock the cpu temps down another degree or 3.


----------



## Andrea87

I might mod the hard drive fan bay too... Adding a quiet 12cm one might improve airflow a good deal. As for cable management, I've tied most of the cables to the backplate near the mainboard, to reduce their space taken as much as possible. This is an old pic made before upgrading ram & adding the second cpu fan, cable management hasn't changed since that photo. Small space is available behind the MB and hard drive trays, I've hidden there all data cables and some power ones...

As for the 5.25" bays areas, right over the dvd drive there's a fan pulling air in, locked there by cable ties







I've added some paper tape around (sounds much like a ghetto mod but works well







) to force airflow from the front four drive bays into the case and avoid recirculation there. That makes a good "air tunnel" from the front bays directly to the cpu and exhaust.


----------



## onedollarinmywallet

Please add me to the CM212+ club.









I'll be attemping to begin and complete my i7/SB build again tonight now I have a replacement CM212+ on hand. The first one, while in a new and sealed box, was missing the retention plate and all the paperwork inside (see attached photo) which prevented me from installing last night. An inconvenience, but annoying nonetheless.







Luckily, my local Micro Center had received more CM212+'s in this morning so I was able to get them to exchange for another one. QA/QC oversight in CM's manufacturing?

Question: should I be using the supplied CM thermal paste, or Arctic Silver? I believe I have a tube of AS somewhere in my tool kit.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrea87;13134438*
> I might mod the hard drive fan bay too... Adding a quiet 12cm one might improve airflow a good deal. As for cable management, I've tied most of the cables to the backplate near the mainboard, to reduce their space taken as much as possible. This is an old pic made before upgrading ram & adding the second cpu fan, cable management hasn't changed since that photo. Small space is available behind the MB and hard drive trays, I've hidden there all data cables and some power ones...
> 
> As for the 5.25" bays areas, right over the dvd drive there's a fan pulling air in, locked there by cable ties
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've added some paper tape around (sounds much like a ghetto mod but works well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) to force airflow from the front four drive bays into the case and avoid recirculation there. That makes a good "air tunnel" from the front bays directly to the cpu and exhaust.


Sounds like you have it pretty well covered. They are nice cases, but they have some serious cable management flaws and there is only so much one can do with them.


----------



## krnb0iek

So regarding the noise issue I have been having.. I've noticed that with Cool n' Quiet feature on, the blademaster is very silent running at around 600-800 rpm. But since I'm OC'ed, it raises my temps to more than what I'm comfortable with. With Cool n' Quiet off, it has a constant hum at 2000 rpm.. which is a bit too much for my ears. For those who have replaced the blademaster with Yate Loons, which fan model would produce the best cooling with least noise with PWM off?


----------



## mojosephwu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onedollarinmywallet;13138457*
> Please add me to the CM212+ club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be attemping to begin and complete my i7/SB build again tonight now I have a replacement CM212+ on hand. The first one, while in a new and sealed box, was missing the retention plate and all the paperwork inside (see attached photo) which prevented me from installing last night. An inconvenience, but annoying nonetheless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, my local Micro Center had received more CM212+'s in this morning so I was able to get them to exchange for another one. QA/QC oversight in CM's manufacturing?
> 
> Question: should I be using the supplied CM thermal paste, or Arctic Silver? I believe I have a tube of AS somewhere in my tool kit.


read the thread its been answer for about 5 times ..... please read befpre you post ur questions its all in there, but i will tell u use CM supplied TIM.


----------



## wooly

yeah like someone is going to read 175 pages for a question that could be answered quite quickly


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krnb0iek;13151116*
> So regarding the noise issue I have been having.. I've noticed that with Cool n' Quiet feature on, the blademaster is very silent running at around 600-800 rpm. But since I'm OC'ed, it raises my temps to more than what I'm comfortable with. With Cool n' Quiet off, it has a constant hum at 2000 rpm.. which is a bit too much for my ears. For those who have replaced the blademaster with Yate Loons, which fan model would produce the best cooling with least noise with PWM off?


Yate Loons do not work with PWM. The Medium Speeds are quieter than the High Speeds, but still have a decent amount of static pressure and cfm work reasonably well. They top out at around 1,500 rpm so they should be a bit quieter than the BladeMaster. You can try using SpeedFan on the BladeMaster to see if it can manually control the fan speed. I can do that with my Gigabyte boards, but I don't guarantee it will work with your Biostar.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onedollarinmywallet;13138457*
> Please add me to the CM212+ club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be attemping to begin and complete my i7/SB build again tonight now I have a replacement CM212+ on hand. The first one, while in a new and sealed box, was missing the retention plate and all the paperwork inside (see attached photo) which prevented me from installing last night. An inconvenience, but annoying nonetheless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luckily, my local Micro Center had received more CM212+'s in this morning so I was able to get them to exchange for another one. QA/QC oversight in CM's manufacturing?
> 
> Question: should I be using the supplied CM thermal paste, or Arctic Silver? I believe I have a tube of AS somewhere in my tool kit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mojosephwu;13151278*
> read the thread its been answer for about 5 times ..... please read befpre you post ur questions its all in there, but i will tell u use CM supplied TIM.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooly;13151375*
> yeah like someone is going to read 175 pages for a question that could be answered quite quickly


Considering it's covered in the VERY FIRST POST IN THE THREAD, asking someone to do some reading isn't a big deal. Heck, they should have read the first few posts before making their own anyway as it's quite common in threads like this for common questions to be answered there.

They can also look at the 212+ FAQ (link in my sig) for a more up to date answer as the Club Owner isn't doing their job in keeping it up to date.


----------



## jsigone

pretty happy w/ the 212 I just picked up. OC'd to 4.5GHz and prime temps have peaked at 68*C


----------



## PapaSmurf

That sounds about right.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsigone;13170410*
> pretty happy w/ the 212 I just picked up. OC'd to 4.5GHz and prime temps have peaked at 68*C


Ha, that's pretty awesome. I'm thinking about getting a 2500K later this year, and was wondering what kind of temps I'd be looking at at 4.5GHz.

Seems like I'd have to get a pretty bad chip not to be able to hit 4.5GHz as well.


----------



## jsigone

DO IT!! HAHA

yah these OC pretty easy. I'm sure I can push it higher but really isn't needed. 4.5 seems to be the average for the 2500k so I'll just leave it there and enjoy the extra horsepower and without an expensive cooler. I'd rather get another 6950 then a good water cooler kit so I can get .5GHz extra.


----------



## Xcrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;13171840*
> Ha, that's pretty awesome. I'm thinking about getting a 2500K later this year, and was wondering what kind of temps I'd be looking at at 4.5GHz.
> 
> Seems like I'd have to get a pretty bad chip not to be able to hit 4.5GHz as well.


My i5 2500k gets to around 58c when folding at 4.5 Ghz


----------



## Ellis

Sounds pretty awesome.

It really depends on cash though - there are a few things that I feel I could use the extra processing power in, but there are also other things that need/want money spending on them.


----------



## jsigone

ahh the balance of hobbies LOL don't we all have them


----------



## Ellis

Indeed. Mine seems to be a balance between computers, guitars and audio stuff at the moment.


----------



## Krusher33

"in pursuit of performance" is not a hobby. It's a necessity dang it.


----------



## jsigone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;13176755*
> Indeed. Mine seems to be a balance between computers, guitars and audio stuff at the moment.


eh that nots that bad, I have to spread between computers, (cycling) bikes, my EVO, photography/telescope junk plus guns/ammo. And surprisingly so the computer is the cheapest so far LOL


----------



## jsigone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13176801*
> "in pursuit of performance" is not a hobby. It's a necessity dang it.


haha I agree:applaud:


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsigone;13177528*
> eh that nots that bad, I have to spread between computers, (cycling) bikes, my EVO, photography/telescope junk plus guns/ammo. And surprisingly so the computer is the cheapest so far LOL


Is that your Evo in your avatar?


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsigone;13177528*
> And surprisingly so the computer is the cheapest so far LOL


Haha this is pretty true for me as well. Just recently stopped modding my g37 coupe and went back to stock. Now I feel like I have all this extra time and money to put into my computer


----------



## jsigone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;13178800*
> Is that your Evo in your avatar?


YES and worth every penny I'm paying for it but gas milage sucks...partly to do w/ my right foot:drunken:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krnb0iek;13179141*
> Haha this is pretty true for me as well. Just recently stopped modding my g37 coupe and went back to stock. Now I feel like I have all this extra time and money to put into my computer


G37's aren't meant to stay stock for long. But nice offset and drop is all that is needed to those machines


----------



## Nester_AMD

Installed! My load temps dropped 14C. I'm thinking there might have been a problem with the stock cooler to have a drop in temps like that. Pics to come when my camera is done charging.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That isn't at all uncommon when switching from a stock heatsink to something like the 212+.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsigone;13180053*
> YES and worth every penny I'm paying for it but gas milage sucks...partly to do w/ my right foot:drunken:
> 
> G37's aren't meant to stay stock for long. But nice offset and drop is all that is needed to those machines


Ha. nice.


----------



## Nester_AMD

Awesome!


----------



## IXcrispyXI

i would like to join here








i bet i got the smallest mobo


----------



## goldcrow

Been wanting to get the Hyper212+ for a while now. Seeing as my temps are really high (it's summer here), is it a good upgrade from my bolt-on Vendetta 2? Btw, I'm idling at the 40s and load temps are at the 60s.


----------



## IXcrispyXI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goldcrow*


Been wanting to get the Hyper212+ for a while now. Seeing as my temps are really high (it's summer here), is it a good upgrade from my bolt-on Vendetta 2? Btw, I'm idling at the 40s and load temps are at the 60s.


my load with stock cooler @ 3.3ghz was around 70degrees now with the hyper 212 im gettin 59degrees with a 4ghz oc i could push it further but im thinkin 4ghz is plenty for now







just until i can afford a new pc


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *goldcrow*


Been wanting to get the Hyper212+ for a while now. Seeing as my temps are really high (it's summer here), is it a good upgrade from my bolt-on Vendetta 2? Btw, I'm idling at the 40s and load temps are at the 60s.


To be quite honest here, I doubt you would see more than a couple of degrees difference if that much.

What ambient temps do you have and how much vcore do you have to run through that Q6600 to get to 3.2GHz. I'm running 1.425vcore with my Q6600 to get to 3.3GHz and with a 212+ and a pair of Blademaster Fans in Push/Pull I'm getting about the same temps in a 72-74f room.


----------



## goldcrow

1.425v for the 400x8 setting stable. Ambient temps are in the 30s range, really hot weather. Thing is though I'm idling 15 deg. celsius above ambient. Have already reapplied thermal paste and reseated, and no difference at all. Black ops has my Q6600 reaching high 60s!


----------



## PapaSmurf

I don't know what fan (or fans) you are running on that Vendetta 2, but you might try a more powerful one. Not just more CFM, but more static pressure. I don't guarantee it will help, but it could. But in the end if you want to change heatsinks you'll probably need to go with something like a Noctua NH-D14, ThermalRight Silver Arrow or Venemous X, or one of the other big boys. I can see one of them dropping temps by 5-10C, but I can't see a 212+ more than 1 or 2C, and that just wouldn't be worth the time, trouble, or expense.


----------



## goldcrow

Alright, will look into changing fans. My fan's currently the stock 1500rpm.


----------



## Krusher33

I recall awhile back when I was interested in Vendetta 2 that it was suggested to get new fans with it.


----------



## jsigone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goldcrow;13185412*
> 1.425v for the 400x8 setting stable. Ambient temps are in the 30s range, really hot weather. Thing is though I'm idling 15 deg. celsius above ambient. Have already reapplied thermal paste and reseated, and no difference at all. Black ops has my Q6600 reaching high 60s!


sounds like some hot spots in your chassis. Have your tried open top yet to see the diff? I'd start w/ higher rear exit fans, no point of swirling more hot air in the box if you can't get it out.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Good idea. You might also want to remove the side panel and place a large box fan blowing into the case to see how much difference that makes.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Finally got around to putting this thing in after having it sit on my shelf for 6 months.


----------



## Meebsy

I just got around to getting a 2nd Blade Master fan for a Push/Pull setup; oddly had to buy a brand new CM Hyper 212+ just for the fan as it worked out cheapest, and am wondering how the fans should be set. My setup is very similar to CH Skyline but I have an exhaust fan on the rear whereas he does not.
Obviously the fans on the HSF should be blowing air towards the rear exhaust fan but I'm not quite sure on which way to the fans should be attached to do so.
My only guess atm is that the branding sticker on the fan itself should be pointed towards the front of the case. If anyone knows better I'd greatly appreciate it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Look for the arrow on the outside of the housing of the fan. That shows you which direction the fan blows. If yours came with the plastic fan clips which are already mounted to the fan you use one with the clips as attached as the PUSH fan (blowing into the heatsink) and take the clips off of the second and attach them to the opposite side and use it as the PULL fan (blowing away from the heatsink).

Another way to tell is look at the cross brackets of the fan housing. If the cross bracket is next the heatsink it is blowing into the heatsink. If the bracket is away from the heatsink it is blowing away from it.

A third way is to look at the blades. You'll notice that one side is cupped. That is the side that would should be next to the heatsink to blow into it.


----------



## anichols7

I have the 212+ How do I go about setting up a PnP, just get another fan?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anichols7;13198712*
> I have the 212+ How do I go about setting up a PnP, just get another fan?


You need to get another fan that is identical to the original fan and mount it so that it blows OUT of the heatsink. That will be the PULL fan while the original fan will be the PUSH fan.


----------



## Eagle1337

Pfft I've mixed fans without an issue before and it didn't hurt the performance either

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk


----------



## PapaSmurf

I've mixed fans before too and the cooling has never been as good as it is with matching fans.


----------



## Eagle1337

Odd been as good our better. Noctua seems to agree too with the d14

Sent from my GT-I9000M using Tapatalk


----------



## MikeOnBike

I'm considering the following combo:

Asus M4A88TD-V EVO
AMD Phenom II x6 1090t
CM Hyper 212+
G.Skill Trident 1600 2x4GB

Can I get away with the tall Trident memory heat sinks with the 212+ or will I need to go with the shorter Ripjaw series? I don't know if this MB uses slots 1/3 or 2/4 for two sticks of memory. I plan to put the fan on the side away from the memory slots.

Thanks!


----------



## anichols7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13198806*
> You need to get another fan that is identical to the original fan and mount it so that it blows OUT of the heatsink. That will be the PULL fan while the original fan will be the PUSH fan.


Best way to go about getting that fan? Also noticed your from Rockford! I am originally from the Woodstock area grew up an ICE-Hogs fan!


----------



## TehStranger?

im gonna buy this cooler soon can u add me or do i have to wait till i get it?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anichols7;13199187*
> Best way to go about getting that fan? Also noticed your from Rockford! I am originally from the Woodstock area grew up an ICE-Hogs fan!


I only moved here a couple of years ago to help my brother-in-law with the maintenance and tech stuff on his nursery (plant, not children).

See the 212+ FAQ (link in my sig) for a link to the fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TehStranger?;13199198*
> im gonna buy this cooler soon can u add me or do i have to wait till i get it?


No one to add you. The Club Owner was only around for a week or so after taking over and then abandoned the Club. Feel free to consider yourself as belonging once you get yours.


----------



## preet27

Hey guys I hope you can help me out here, this is regarding TIM

Which TIM is better, Artic silver 5 or the one that comes with the CM hyper 212+, which one should i apply? hardware secrets shows significant performance of Artic silver 5 in it's april roundup of TIM's

I read papaSmurf telling about the break in period of the AS compared to TIM that comes packaged with CM hyper 212+, is it worth it buying and applying AS5 ?

Also what kind of temperature drops should i expect using a push pull setup rather than a single fan setup, i read some guys shoing 3 to 4 degrees drop ?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *preet27*


Hey guys I hope you can help me out here, this is regarding TIM

Which TIM is better, Artic silver 5 or the one that comes with the CM hyper 212+, which one should i apply? hardware secrets shows significant performance of Artic silver 5 in it's april roundup of TIM's

I read papaSmurf telling about the break in period of the AS compared to TIM that comes packaged with CM hyper 212+, is it worth it buying and applying AS5 ?

Also what kind of temperature drops should i expect using a push pull setup rather than a single fan setup, i read some guys shoing 3 to 4 degrees drop ?


Use the TIM that comes with the 212+. Personally think it's about par with AS5. I noticed a 8 degree drop with 2 fans, but one of the fans is not a CM. Bought a CM Storm Sniper BE for 60â‚¬ today. Will rip one of the CM 120mm fans out of it and put it on the 212+. If they are the same, that is.. Haven't looked yet..


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I only moved here a couple of years ago to help my brother-in-law with the maintenance and tech stuff on his nursery (plant, not children).

See the 212+ FAQ (link in my sig) for a link to the fan.

No one to add you. The Club Owner was only around for a week or so after taking over and then abandoned the Club. Feel free to consider yourself as belonging once you get yours.


Papa, have you tried talking to a mod and seeing if they can change the OP to you? I'm pretty sure it can be and has been done, and you seem very dedicated to this thread.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


Use the TIM that comes with the 212+. Personally think it's about par with AS5. I noticed a 8 degree drop with 2 fans, but one of the fans is not a CM. Bought a CM Storm Sniper BE for 60â‚¬ today. Will rip one of the CM 120mm fans out of it and put it on the 212+. If they are the same, that is.. Haven't looked yet..


I think CM supply the same 120mm fans with all of their cases, and the ones that came with my 690 II are not the same as the Blademaster that you get with the 212+. They might give you Blademasters with the Storm Sniper but I'd be somewhat surprised.


----------



## kzone75

Just noticed it's not a similar fan.







oh Well, have to order one then.. Gonna drown in fans soon.


----------



## preet27

Any more inputs on the TIM supplied compared to AS5, i am still undecided, some real hands on experience with these two will help in determining if buying AS5 is worth it or not ?


----------



## krnb0iek

I finally decided to run my fans at 65% and now I don't have the noise problem that I used to have. Temps have only increased about 3C-4C. Now I'm considering P/P to lower my temps back down. I currently have an exhaust fan which is pretty close to the 212 already.. will adding a pull blademaster make marginal difference in temps (3C-4C)?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *preet27*


Any more inputs on the TIM supplied compared to AS5, i am still undecided, some real hands on experience with these two will help in determining if buying AS5 is worth it or not ?


Sometime in the last 50 posts or so someone said the curing time is not worth it (PapaSmurf I think). The TIM that comes with it is quite efficient. I went with OCZ Freeze just because of loyalty but I would have gone with the Cooler Master one if I didn't.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krnb0iek*


I finally decided to run my fans at 65% and now I don't have the noise problem that I used to have. Temps have only increased about 3C-4C. Now I'm considering P/P to lower my temps back down. I currently have an exhaust fan which is pretty close to the 212 already.. will adding a pull blademaster make marginal difference in temps (3C-4C)?


IMO I think it'll not be much different if you say that the exhaust fan is already pretty close and pulling the air for you already. Maybe more like 1-3 degrees difference?

In your situation I would probably see about how to go about getting fresh air straight to the CPU area. Or maybe even a fan shroud.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *preet27;13202848*
> Any more inputs on the TIM supplied compared to AS5, i am still undecided, some real hands on experience with these two will help in determining if buying AS5 is worth it or not ?


Personally, I don't think AS5 is worth the time, money, or hassle of using it. If you are uncertain just use the ThermalFusion 400 that ships with the 212+ when you first get it (see the 212+ Faq linked in my sig for the proper way to apply the TIM) and see if your temps are acceptable. Properly applied I rarely see more than 1or 2C difference between the better TIM like the ThermalFusion 400, Arctic Cooling MX-2 or MX-3, OCZ Freeze, Gelid GC Extreme, Indigo Extreme, etc. anyway so unless one is in an extreme environment or is doing extreme overclocking it isn't worth it. Of course, if one was in one of those situations the 212+ really isn't the right cpu cooler in the first place.

If you don't feel the temps are good enough using it then consider getting some Arctic Cooling MX-2 or if you insist, the outdated and difficult to apply and cure AS5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krnb0iek;13203003*
> I finally decided to run my fans at 65% and now I don't have the noise problem that I used to have. Temps have only increased about 3C-4C. Now I'm considering P/P to lower my temps back down. I currently have an exhaust fan which is pretty close to the 212 already.. will adding a pull blademaster make marginal difference in temps (3C-4C)?


If the case exhaust fan is within an inch or so of the 212+ trying running a push/pull setup without the case fan. Sometimes that works better if the pull fan and the case fan are too close together.


----------



## Laucian

Hey, i got a question(if anyone knows) I'm setting up to purchase the sig rig but i kinda began to wonder on how much clearance you guys get for RAM with just the regular fan on the H212+?

the Corsair Vengeance Heatspreaders are quite on the large side, i could get some smaller XMS ones but they're rated at 1.65 V compared to 1.5 V and i heard SB has problems running 1.65V for some reason.


----------



## PapaSmurf

As long as you mount it blowing from side to side you won't have a problem. You might have to shift the fan up slightly onto the heatsink to clear ram in the slot closest to the cpu, but that shouldn't have any appreciably adverse effect on the cooling efficiency.

I'm using Kingstons HyperX T1 ram and have all four slots populated with them and I have no problems. The T1's have even taller heatspreaders that those Corsairs do. Mine is a different motherboard though, but the first ram slot is far enough away on it to not cause any problems and I think your Asus should be fine as well.


----------



## Laucian

Ah i see, alright i will stick with these then







thanks a ton, i'll make sure to become a member of this group once ive gotten everything assembled.

*EDIT*

Minor followup question, if i had to shift my fan, would i just secure it with zip ties?


----------



## Krusher33

lol... I may have won a Corsair H60. Not sure if I want to replace my 212+ with it.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Laucian*


Ah i see, alright i will stick with these then







thanks a ton, i'll make sure to become a member of this group once ive gotten everything assembled.

*EDIT*

Minor followup question, if i had to shift my fan, would i just secure it with zip ties?


If it has the plastic clips no. You should be able to slide it up enough to clear and still be able to secure it with the plastic clips. If you have one of the older ones with the metal clips you might end up needing to use zip ties.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


lol... I may have won a Corsair H60. Not sure if I want to replace my 212+ with it.










You could always send it to me to test out for your first.







I wouldn't want you to replace it if it won't do a better job.







It should only take me about 4 or 5 years of testing to be able to give you a thorough analysis.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


You could always send it to me to test out for your first.







I wouldn't want you to replace it if it won't do a better job.







It should only take me about 4 or 5 years of testing to be able to give you a thorough analysis.










Ha ha ha, even in just your first sentence I thought "pfft, and I'll never get it back". Appears I'd be right.

What I meant is that it probably won't do much different with my rig, eh? Unless I add a bit more voltage to get a bit more out of it? I will definitely try both when I get it but I doubt I'd such much differences.

I'm tempted to just use it in the HTPC to make it more low profile. It's using the Geminii S right now. Its case is in planning stage at the moment.

Though in the gaming rig it'll allow me to put the side fan back on to blow more air directly at VRMs and what not.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It would probably be a couple of degrees cooler than the 212+, possibly more if you used the BladeMaster fan from the 212. And it would definitely allow you to direct more airflow around the vrm's, etc.


----------



## jsigone

I'd a swap the H60 and try it out, if you don't like it put it on craigs for $50. If so, save the 212 for a side rig or something. Hang it on the car mirror....LOL


----------



## Krusher33

Pfft, I'll be keeping the 212+ even as a keepstake. So that one day I'd tell my kids "yes, that was the best bang for buck cooler back-n-da-day". "Pfft, that oversized monstrosity?"


----------



## nowcontrol

too right, Bang for Buck is the name of this game if you ask me, tis the single most important factor for my kinda builds =D

I can't see myself ever swapping out my 212+ for anything else.


----------



## glh00goh

Add me








http://img577.imageshack.us/f/cmhyper212.jpg


----------



## cpaqf1

hey guys,

I'm getting the hyper 212 Plus, I'm also buying an i5 2500. I won't be overclocking but I'd like something silent and don't wanna use the stock cooler. Basically my question is, what's the best fan that could replace the stock one, have as much or almost as much airflow and be quieter ? Price is not an issue.

I know about the S-FLEX and the Gentle Typhoon but the former still seems quite loud @ 1900 and the latter is almost impossible to find in stock. So I'm looking for more suggestions.

thanks


----------



## PapaSmurf

You aren't going to find any fan that moves as much air, has as much static pressure, and will be noticeably quieter. You'll either have to sacrifice some cooling, accept the noise, or look into some other cooling solution. But if you aren't going to be overclocking your system set the fan to use PWM in the bios to control it's speed. That way unless you are doing something cpu intensive it should dial down the rpm and quiet down the fan. But the BladeMaster isn't that loud.


----------



## Lexbomb

Hey guys,
Just bought one and installed it,
Problem is looking at all your photos i think i may have installed it wrong?
I have my 2 fans facing the GPU and the top of the PSU, 
Looking at photos most people have it facing the RAM and exit fan. Is this going to cause any problems?


----------



## eggs2see

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lexbomb*


Hey guys,
Just bought one and installed it,
Problem is looking at all your photos i think i may have installed it wrong?
I have my 2 fans facing the GPU and the top of the PSU, 
Looking at photos most people have it facing the RAM and exit fan. Is this going to cause any problems?


They can face both ways, however if you don't have a top mounted exhaust (fan) then you are going to be sending hot air strait into a wall, where it will then spread around the case. Also the intake will be getting warmer air coming from your GPU.

I think I would recommend remounting it.


----------



## Lexbomb

Ok thanks my case had a to mounted exhaust fan but I'll move it tomorrow morning.i also think I got a bit excited with the thermal paste


----------



## eggs2see

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lexbomb;13303538*
> Ok thanks my case had a to mounted exhaust fan but I'll move it tomorrow morning.i also think I got a bit excited with the thermal paste


Lol yeah, easy to do really, I found just a small pea size in the center does the trick. I have seen guides for a CM 212+ and they recommend using a credit card to get TIM in between the gaps, then apply two rice grain size dots, but it's really not necessary. Just a small dot in the center and it will fill up all the gaps anyway.


----------



## myEZweb_net

Can anyone confirm from experience (or be 100% certain) that Hyper 212 will fit on my motherboard?

Mobo: ASRock 870 EXTREME3 ATX

Thks


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eggs2see;13306818*
> Lol yeah, easy to do really, I found just a small pea size in the center does the trick. I have seen guides for a CM 212+ and they recommend using a credit card to get TIM in between the gaps, then apply two rice grain size dots, but it's really not necessary. Just a small dot in the center and it will fill up all the gaps anyway.


http://www.overclock.net/12295518-post1058.html

See pics in this post. A drop isn't as effective as in this pic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myEZweb_net;13306948*
> Can anyone confirm from experience (or be 100% certain) that Hyper 212 will fit on my motherboard?
> 
> Mobo: ASRock 870 EXTREME3 ATX
> 
> Thks


It's an AM3 socket so it should (if you're actually talking about the Hyper 212+, not the Hyper 212).


----------



## MikeOnBike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ap42;12295518*
> 
> Idle temp: 18C
> After 30mins of Prime95: 38C
> Room temp: about 70F/21C


I thought that it was impossible to have your CPU cooler than room temp. Doesn't this indicate that the temp monitoring program needs an offset to correctly indicate the cpu temp.

My son's computer with a Phenom II x4 840 (Propus) was way off with Core Temp. I think we used a +7c offset. We adjusted it to match the temp shown in the bios.


----------



## myEZweb_net

Can anyone confirm from experience (or be 100% certain) that Hyper 212 will fit on my motherboard?

Mobo: ASRock 870 EXTREME3 ATX
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13307059*
> 
> It's an AM3 socket so it should (if you're actually talking about the Hyper 212+, not the Hyper 212).


Yes 212+. Thanks for the response.

I AM CONCERNED BECAUSE THE IT IS VERY TIGHT SPACE BETWEEN CPU AND RAM!! ANYONE WITH ASROCK 870 AND 212+ SETUP???


----------



## Krusher33

I see someone answered your question a couple of weeks ago. You don't trust it?

http://www.overclock.net/13050902-post1674.html

Edit: Found someone who has used a hyper212+ on that board and ripjaws memory in the tom's hardware forums. http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/287430-30-asrock-extreme3-problem-problems-exact I'd say it's safe to say it'll fit. BTW: the issue was solved because the board was touching the try underneath.


----------



## potitoos

not sure, but its a mid-range cooler. Its probably the best cooler you can get for the price range $30-$35. to give you a better idea, my temps before were 32c-55c on stock with this cooler 23c-40c


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MikeOnBike;13307265*
> I thought that it was impossible to have your CPU cooler than room temp. Doesn't this indicate that the temp monitoring program needs an offset to correctly indicate the cpu temp.
> 
> My son's computer with a Phenom II x4 840 (Propus) was way off with Core Temp. I think we used a +7c offset. We adjusted it to match the temp shown in the bios.


It is impossible. The problem is that most AMD cpu's temp sensors don't work very well below 30C or so and don't provide accurate temps in that range. You can't use an offset in the monitoring software as that would throw it off at the higher end where accuracy is much more important. That's why the only temps that matter are the LOADED temps.

Intel sensors tend to be more accurate at the low end than AMD's, but they aren't perfect either. Intels big problem is that they often times stick at some point and and will only go so far down so they appear to report overly high temps at idle. Once again, the only temps that matter are the loaded temps.


----------



## MikeOnBike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13308656*
> It is impossible. The problem is that most AMD cpu's temp sensors don't work very well below 30C or so and don't provide accurate temps in that range. You can't use an offset in the monitoring software as that would throw it off at the higher end where accuracy is much more important. That's why the only temps that matter are the LOADED temps.


Thanks for the clarification. I assumed, based on no real information, that they might be linearly off over their range. Fortunately we applied a positive offset so CPUTemp is over reporting the high temp. With his Phenom II 840 folding at 100% it was reporting 54c with the stock cooler so it is actually in the high 40s and well below the processor max of 71c.


----------



## LuckySe7ens

terrible instructions, but great cooler! Just put one in my budget "family build' on a Phenom II x4 630 with unlocked L3. Time to push the clocks a bit


----------



## krnb0iek

I have a question about push/pull setup. I currently have both my push/pull fans running at around 1200rpm. My rear exhaust case fan is about 2-3 inches away from my pull fan. I'm running my case fans on a fan controller, and at times when I turn down the case fans, I noticed the air pulled from the pull fan on the 212 pushes enough air so that it makes my rear exhaust fan spin. Any adverse effect with this?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Ideally the rear case fan should be running about the same as the two cpu push/pull fans. The main problem with running it slower would be that it wouldn't exhaust the hot air as well so the cpu and the rest of the system would probably run a few degrees hotter than it would otherwise. Depending on your OC that may or may not amount to enough of a temp difference to matter, but it is something to keep an eye on.


----------



## wahdahale

Count me in!









push / pull config !

the result of negative airflow


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wahdahale*












Where did you get that wallpaper? Im always looking for good ones and this one is simple and great!


----------



## Lexbomb

what programs do you guys use to measure temps?


----------



## PapaSmurf

CoreTemp. That's all I use. Some use RealTemp or SpeedFan, but CoreTemp is the best.


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lexbomb;13337286*
> what programs do you guys use to measure temps?


HWmonitor


----------



## wahdahale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE;13333647*
> Where did you get that wallpaper? Im always looking for good ones and this one is simple and great!


just look for it through google, look for HD wallpapers ( since my resolution is 1920x1080 )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lexbomb;13337286*
> what programs do you guys use to measure temps?


People say real temp since it has ambient temps, i use *core temp* and *real temp* ( the later the version the more accurate your measurements will be )


----------



## Wheezo

I would like to join please.
I replaced my (junky)[inadequate] Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 Pro with the 212 and got a 10 degree C drop in idle temps. Very happy with this cooler.

Thank you for adding me.

Updated with picture for membership. Added two Enermax Twister white LED 1200 rpm fans and get around 59 on all cores at 100% load. (no OC). They arn't the best performing fans, I may switch to two Blademasters in the summer if it gets too hot. But the enermax fans look pretty sweet to me so they will hopefully stay.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wheezo*


I would like to join please.
I replaced my (junky) Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 Pro with the 212 and got a 10 degree C drop in idle temps. Very happy with this cooler.

Thank you for adding me.


I used to have that same cooler. Definitely worth switching, eh?


----------



## wooly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lexbomb*


what programs do you guys use to measure temps?


dl easytune from gigabyte webby


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wheezo*


I would like to join please.
I replaced my (junky) Arctic Cooler Freezer 7 Pro with the 212 and got a 10 degree C drop in idle temps. Very happy with this cooler.

Thank you for adding me.


The Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro isn't junky. In fact, it's an excellent heatsink if you run stock. It's easy to mount, quiet, and quite an improvement from a stock unit. It's quite capable on a Dual Core Socket 775 system. I still use one on my E6420 backup/test bench. In fact, I would like to find another one cheap for the rig I'm building for my daughter.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wooly*


dl easytune from gigabyte webby










ET is a waste of time to download and a waste of resources to use. There are several much more useful products mentioned that due a much better job and don't waste a ton of resources. And you don't need to download it anyway as it comes on the driver disk that came with the motherboard.


----------



## compudaze

Just did a Push vs. Push/Pull comparison if anyone's interested:

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...2-push-vs.html


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *compudaze*


Just did a Push vs. Push/Pull comparison if anyone's interested:

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...2-push-vs.html


Looks good. That's about what I found the difference to be. 1-2C. I primarily do Push/Pull because I run the Folding @ Home SMP client on my systems so they run at 100% 24/7. Otherwise I would only be running with 1 fan.


----------



## igorxxx1

Do u guys think ,i ll be able do get 4ghz on my phenom 965 c3 with CM hyper 212+ push pull? 
What are the best fans for push pull for this heatsink.

Thx


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *igorxxx1*


Do u guys think ,i ll be able do get 4ghz on my phenom 965 c3 with CM hyper 212+ push pull? 
What are the best fans for push pull for this heatsink.

Thx


Stock fan is great. It's a Cooler Master Blade Master 120 PWM fan. Quiet at 1000RPM when not under full load and can ramp up to 2000RPM if needed. Should be able to find a 2nd for $12 shipped online or $14 shipped from newegg. Newegg always has case fan discount promo's. I think I picked my 2nd up for only $8 + shipping. Considering I only paid $23 for the cooler, it's an awesome combo for the price.


----------



## PapaSmurf

A pair of BladeMasters (like the one that comes with it). That way you maintain the ability to use PWM fan control if you want to control the noise. Otherwise a pair of High Yate Loons, but you would probably pay more for a pair of any fans than you would for the single extra BladeMaster. See the 212+ FAQ in my sig for details on what fan it is.

I would think if the cpu is capable of it then yes, the 212+ should be able to get your there. I would try it with just the single Blademaster it comes with first. A second fan in Push/Pull will only lower your temps about 1 or 2C over a single BladeMaster so it probably won't be worth the added expense of getting it.


----------



## Ellis

Not proving too easy to find a UD3P over here, PapaSmurf.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I hear that. I've seen a couple over here in the States fairly reasonable, but they don't want to ship overseas.


----------



## Ellis

I'm also not sure about buying from overseas either. I've heard people saying that they've had fairly large surprise customs bills on arrival.


----------



## wooly

yeah, I'm a ups man in the uk and have the lovely job of surprising people at the door with a customs charge-on delivery they weren't expecting lol


----------



## Moonzi

just bought this yesterday to replace my current HSF, looking forward to lower temperatures!


----------



## wooly

a few of us here upgraded from freezer pro 7 rev.2 (myself included) and you should see a huge improvement


----------



## Testpa

I will buy this one, cuz my stock Intel cooler just killing my cpu!!


----------



## mojosephwu

just purchased mine from amazon for 29.51 woot so excited


----------



## Moonzi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wooly*


a few of us here upgraded from freezer pro 7 rev.2 (myself included) and you should see a huge improvement










That makes me very excited, I was hitting 86C after 15 hours of Prime 95...wasn't very happy with that.


----------



## TowelieTowel

Just bought one of these and my temps went from 100c full load to 55c full load. Great buy.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TowelieTowel*


Just bought one of these and my temps went from 100c full load to 55c full load. Great buy.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*


Quote:



Originally Posted by *TowelieTowel*


Just bought one of these and my temps went from 100c full load to 55c full load. Great buy.



























^This!


----------



## Moonzi

Buy.com had it for 27.15 with free shipping...after reading so many reviews of how great this HSF is, is there any better bang for buck cooler out there?


----------



## nowcontrol

I got mine for Â£14.99 with free shipping...........thats $24.99 US...........thats MEGA BANG for BUCK!!!!









the deal on this thing cannot be beat!


----------



## Moonzi

I have to say I'm checking the tracking number every couple hours to see where it is because I'm so excited about getting this thing. Overkill, maybe, but it's the simple things


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Moonzi*


Buy.com had it for 27.15 with free shipping...after reading so many reviews of how great this HSF is, is there any better bang for buck cooler out there?


Seriously doubt it. In its price point anyways.


----------



## Moonzi

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

This the TIM application method most used?


----------



## Krusher33

Yup. Except different # of lines because of the # of heatpipes.


----------



## Moonzi

Just wanted to make sure it was that method with going half the length of the three internal pipes...+rep for the help thanks!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TowelieTowel;13364569*
> Just bought one of these and my temps went from 100c full load to 55c full load. Great buy.


Sounds like you had the original heatsink mounted wrong then. It shouldn't be that large of a difference
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonzi;13364658*
> Buy.com had it for 27.15 with free shipping...after reading so many reviews of how great this HSF is, is there any better bang for buck cooler out there?


Nope. The Hyper 212+ is definitely the best bang for your buck cpu heatsink/fan/tim combination. You don't have to replace ANYTHING in the package to get better cooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonzi;13368188*
> Just wanted to make sure it was that method with going half the length of the three internal pipes...+rep for the help thanks!


I go about 3/4's of the length, but yes that guide is essentially what I use except for not cramming the TIM into the crevices. I am getting more even temps across all four cores that way.


----------



## Lexbomb

its a dodgy phone pic and can post better ones if people want, just finished installing it.works great, I have cold air coming out of my case


----------



## IXcrispyXI

here's my newest pic sorry bout it bein a messy case should be gettin a new 1 next week

















also managed 4.2ghz with this cooler http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1801167
could go further if i had better ram


----------



## Moonzi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


I go about 3/4's of the length, but yes that guide is essentially what I use except for not cramming the TIM into the crevices. I am getting more even temps across all four cores that way.


Do you smooth it out with a CC or no? +rep for your help as well.


----------



## abu46

i am about to buy an 212+ for my system, but the problem is that in my region i am getting the model without fan brackets (i.e. the model no. RR-B10-212P-GP in which fan is held by wire clips)

is it ok to go with this model, coz i have heard that in this the fans tend to vibrate as they are not properly secured and also that it is difficult to attach a second fan


----------



## chinesethunda

Just installed mine, debating to push or pull it.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Push looks better in your case (literally). It will draw air from the front, push it out behind and the rear exhaust fan will suck out the heat. I kinda wondered why push/pull would even matter that much, since most cases are set up like this, the rear exhaust fan is pretty near the heatsink so you know its gonna pull all the air away from it...

I guess push/pull is more like a turbo and just gets the air through it faster


----------



## compudaze

For me...

Adding a second fan only lowered temps by 1.8C. Unfortunately I wasn't able to record the decibel level for the fans, but the fan(s) at 2000RPM were quite noticeable. At 1600RPM the fan(s) were much quieter and at 1200RPM they were virtually silent. I think the real benefit from a push/pull setup comes from running the fans between 1200-1600RPM for the lower noise and good enough if not better [than one 2000 RPM fan] cooling.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Here's mine!



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonzi;13390672*
> Do you smooth it out with a CC or no? +rep for your help as well.


I did with IC Diamond 24, but not with the ThermalFusion 400 the 212+ ships with or Arctic Cooling MX-2. They are more viscous than the IC Diamond is so they spread very well by themselves. That IC Diamond is good stuff, but it's more difficult to work with as it doesn't spread out as well with just the pressure of the heatsink being mounted like the more viscous TIM's do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13391011*
> i am about to buy an 212+ for my system, but the problem is that in my region i am getting the model without fan brackets (i.e. the model no. RR-B10-212P-GP in which fan is held by wire clips)
> 
> is it ok to go with this model, coz i have heard that in this the fans tend to vibrate as they are not properly secured and also that it is difficult to attach a second fan


The metal clips aren't as easy to work with as the plastic clips but they work just as well as long as you are careful and don't bend them. Between that and making sure the foam anti-vibration pads are in place you shouldn't have a problem. You can always use zip ties to fasten the fans down if the clips don't hold them well enough.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


So... I wanted to run a test on my Hyper 212+ before putting the H60 in. I can't seem to get my chip above 3.5 ghz and 30 degrees with it... lol. sigh. Dagnabbit bunny rabbit.


Just reposting from another thread. How the heck do I test something if it won't go up in temps?

Of course part of me thinks it might have to do with the chip's temp sensor. I think I remember something about that with a certain line of cores.


----------



## ArtistDeAlec

Hey guys, would anyone be willing to sell me their two extra fan clips/screws/vibration pads that come with the Hyper 212 +? I lost all of my accessories for it and now I'm trying to set up my P/P set up but can't


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ArtistDeAlec*


Hey guys, would anyone be willing to sell me their two extra fan clips/screws/vibration pads that come with the Hyper 212 +? I lost all of my accessories for it and now I'm trying to set up my P/P set up but can't










No, but I'll sell you a whole Hyper 212+ cooling kit with 2 blade master 120 fans and everything to mount them =)


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

What kind of temps are the i5-2500k owners getting with p/p? I'll be using my Hyper212+ with my 3k rpm UltraKaze's.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtistDeAlec;13403499*
> Hey guys, would anyone be willing to sell me their two extra fan clips/screws/vibration pads that come with the Hyper 212 +? I lost all of my accessories for it and now I'm trying to set up my P/P set up but can't


You can cut the pads on the one you have in two to use on the other side and use zip ties to mount the second fan.

It would also be helpful to reveal your location. I'm not sure where "Somewhere in the sky" is located so have no idea about shipping there. The city isn't important, but the country would be.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_CH_Skyline_;13406180*
> What kind of temps are the i5-2500k owners getting with p/p? I'll be using my Hyper212+ with my 3k rpm UltraKaze's.


It would depend on the amount of OC and your ambient room temps. P/P would probably lower temps by about 2C.

You should check out http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/1004767-cooler-master-hyper-212-push-vs.html . That is with an i7 2600k, but it should give you an idea on what to expect. An i5 2500K would probably be a couple of degrees cooler at the same clock speed.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13408101*
> It would depend on the amount of OC and your ambient room temps. P/P would probably lower temps by about 2C.
> 
> You should check out http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/1004767-cooler-master-hyper-212-push-vs.html . That is with an i7 2600k, but it should give you an idea on what to expect. An i5 2500K would probably be a couple of degrees cooler at the same clock speed.


47c with a P/P config is not bad, especially since those are 2k rpm fans. Thanks for the link, Papa!


----------



## DefenderX1

Added!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DefenderX1;13410213*
> Added!


?????


----------



## sky

just installed mine a couple hours ago and its amazing... the stock cooler is trash compared to this
this is my first after market cooler

well worth the money


----------



## reborn624

this cooler is good enough to a [email protected]?


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reborn624*


this cooler is good enough to a [email protected]?


Easily.


----------



## reborn624

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ellis*


Easily.


what's your temperatures? IDLE and FULL LOAD


----------



## Ellis

I can't exactly remember. Around 35C idle and 50C load, I think.


----------



## vaguiners

Can I join the club?


----------



## reborn624

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;13415942*
> I can't exactly remember. Around 35C idle and 50C load, I think.


wow, nice


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reborn624;13415584*
> this cooler is good enough to a [email protected]?


If it can run my Q9550 at 4.25GHz it will certainly handle a Q8300 at 3.3.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reborn624;13415625*
> what's your temperatures? IDLE and FULL LOAD


About 38-40C idle and 60-62C full load in a 70F room.


----------



## sky

is it normal to be able to twist the cooler while its mounted?


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sky;13418437*
> is it normal to be able to twist the cooler while its mounted?


I hope it's normal, because I am able to twist it slightly too.


----------



## PapaSmurf

To some extent. You shouldn't be able to twist it very far nor should it move too easily.


----------



## sky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;13418610*
> I hope it's normal, because I am able to twist it slightly too.


the temps are good... so maybe


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sky;13418437*
> is it normal to be able to twist the cooler while its mounted?


Mine somewhat twists a bit as well. As long as you mounted everything correctly and tight, it shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## drufause

With June coming up just wishing someone already had a new bd fx processor to test my loved 212 with.


----------



## sleepinfuton

may i join the club?


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sleepinfuton*


may i join the club?


Looks so much like a Gigabyte board, I love the Asus heatsink though.


----------



## mojosephwu

does anyone know if the vengeance ram will block the fan on the hyper 212+?


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mojosephwu*


does anyone know if the vengeance ram will block the fan on the hyper 212+?


Depends on the board. I had to use slots 2+4 instead of 1+3 (which according to the manual of my board, you're supposed to use anyway).

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...l#post12313483


----------



## sleepinfuton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mojosephwu*


does anyone know if the vengeance ram will block the fan on the hyper 212+?


if you have P8P67 like i do, vengeance ram won't block the fan but it's going to be really close to each other.


----------



## mojosephwu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sleepinfuton;13426025*
> if you have P8P67 like i do, vengeance ram won't block the fan but it's going to be really close to each other.


i have asrock extreme4 p67


----------



## mountainking

Hey guys I just ordered the system in my sig. Do you think I can safely get to 4.5 ghz with the stock intel cooler?

I'm thinking about ordering a hyper 212 off amazon. What kind of temp differences will I see? Also for the push pull setup you have to purchase an additional fan right?

I can't believe newegg pushed this thing up $48 with shipping! What the heck?

edit - Also doesn't this cooler come with thermal paste pre applied to the heatsink?


----------



## PapaSmurf

You'll only see about 1-2C difference with a Push/Pull setup so for most people it really isn't worth it for extra cooling. It is nice to make it quieter though as you can reduce the rpms of each fan to maintain the same cooling.

Newegg pricing is to some extent controlled by the computers there that will raise the prices on items with high sales to maximize profits.

Not sure if 4.5 is possible with the stock cooler, but if the cpu is capable of doing so then the 212+ should have no problems with it depending on your ambient room temps.

You should read this thread on running a 212+ on an i7 2600K and Push/Pull.


----------



## LostRib

Can I join. Has worked great for me so far, for only 20 something dollars










Edit: Will the 212+ be compatible with AM3+/bulldozer?


----------



## PapaSmurf

No word on Bulldozer support yet that I have heard.


----------



## drufause

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


No word on Bulldozer support yet that I have heard.


Yes this has me a little worried since it is so close to launch. I am holding out hope it will be fine since it appears the socket AM3+ backwards supports AM3 processors and the fan heat sink thermals are efficient enough for some of the super nova hot P4's. However this is no guarantee.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Is it just me or does the look of the Hyper 212 with two fans alone justify the second fan? I thought so...


----------



## PapaSmurf

I do like the look of dual fans. Have them on both of mine.


----------



## eggs2see

The AM3+ Motherboards I have seen appear to have the same/very similar cooler mounts to AM3.. but only time will tell I guess.


----------



## 179232

Only one problem with this Heatsink: it is so massive that if you have a CM690 II Adv then you can't install a side 120mm fan









Sent from my HTC Inspire 4G using Tapatalk.


----------



## drufause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;13437870*
> Only one problem with this Heatsink: it is so massive that if you have a CM690 II Adv then you can't install a side 120mm fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC Inspire 4G using Tapatalk.


It's not as aesthetically as pretty but you might be able to mount the fan external


----------



## reborn624

I'll buy that cooler but I wanted to buy a second fan.

Does the second fan fits without touching the rams?

The board is an Asus P5P43TD Pro and memories are corsair vengeance (2x4gb)


----------



## LostRib

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ComradeNF*


Only one problem with this Heatsink: it is so massive that if you have a CM690 II Adv then you can't install a side 120mm fan










Same problem with the Storm scout


----------



## mojosephwu

i tested my rig with a stock cooler, but my hyper 212+ is going to arrive today... any suggestion on what to clean my TIM with? without using alcohol related material, is nail polish remover doable?


----------



## compudaze

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mojosephwu*


i tested my rig with a stock cooler, but my hyper 212+ is going to arrive today... any suggestion on what to clean my TIM with? without using alcohol related material, is nail polish remover doable?


I use 90% isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters.


----------



## Moonzi

same here...I'm excited the Hyper is out for delivery! Going to clean off my old chip and get this installed tonight. With the Scout there won't be a problem installing it while in the case will there?


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Moonzi*


same here...I'm excited the Hyper is out for delivery! Going to clean off my old chip and get this installed tonight. With the Scout there won't be a problem installing it while in the case will there?


If the mobo tray cutout matches up with the mounting screws on your mobo, you shouldn't have any problems.


----------



## Moonzi

Yeah was overly excited kind of a silly question...it's the little things


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ComradeNF*


Only one problem with this Heatsink: it is so massive that if you have a CM690 II Adv then you can't install a side 120mm fan









Sent from my HTC Inspire 4G using Tapatalk.


Any heatsink small enough so you could have the side panel fan wouldn't cool nearly as well even with the side panel fan so it's no big deal.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reborn624*


I'll buy that cooler but I wanted to buy a second fan.

Does the second fan fits without touching the rams?

The board is an Asus P5P43TD Pro and memories are corsair vengeance (2x4gb)


The second fan would be on the other side of the heatsink from the ram anyway so no, it won't.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mojosephwu*


i tested my rig with a stock cooler, but my hyper 212+ is going to arrive today... any suggestion on what to clean my TIM with? without using alcohol related material, is nail polish remover doable?


Nail polish remover leaves an oily residue so no that is not recommended. compudaze has the correct product.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *compudaze*


I use 90% isopropyl alcohol and coffee filters.


Exactly, although any soft, clean, lint free cloth or paper towel will work. I don't drink coffee so I don't have coffee filters and never found them to be enough different to buy them just for that purpose.


----------



## LostRib

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Moonzi*


same here...I'm excited the Hyper is out for delivery! Going to clean off my old chip and get this installed tonight. With the Scout there won't be a problem installing it while in the case will there?


No, just take some time. It can be frustrating.


----------



## Moonzi

Installed successfully, seeing 10 degree C drops idle ...running Prime overnight to see peeks but short tests show 65 100% load compared to my 85 before.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;13437870*
> Only one problem with this Heatsink: it is so massive that if you have a CM690 II Adv then you can't install a side 120mm fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC Inspire 4G using Tapatalk.


Hmmm, I have a side 120mm fan with my Hyper 212 and CM690II Advanced...



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Installed my 2500k and oc'd to 4.9Ghz. Hottest I've seen is 61c on one core, the others were still in the 56-59c range.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13448862*
> Hmmm, I have a side 120mm fan with my Hyper 212 and CM690II Advanced...
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


But you have the one with a side panel window. The stock 692 Adv. with the solid side panel has two fan openings one above the other. There's no way that one could mount a fan in the upper side panel opening with any tower heatsink that uses a 120mm fan.


----------



## Jaxlb

Just ordered one of these coolers and should see it tomorrow or the day after.
Looking forward to getting some good temps since I keep topping out at 62c load at the moment.
Going to get a second fan and run push/pull later on.


----------



## Moonzi

10:00AM: 2 hours into Prime95 and the highest core (1) is staying at 69-70. This core used to hit 85-86 with the old HSF. I'm very very happy, love this cooler.

12:00PM: 4 hours in and temperatures haven't even moved...everything is stable.

1:20PM: Love this cooler:


----------



## gindustries

Anyone tried Ty 140 on 212 plus yet ? Thinking of trying Ty 140


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Jaxlb*


Just ordered one of these coolers and should see it tomorrow or the day after.
Looking forward to getting some good temps since I keep topping out at 62c load at the moment.
Going to get a second fan and run push/pull later on.


The second fan and P/P probably isn't going to be worth the time, trouble, or expense. You'll probably see less than 2C difference in temps. The main benefit from a P/P setup is to allow you to lower the RPM of both fans to reduce the noise and keep the temps about the same.


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaxlb;13450967*
> Just ordered one of these coolers and should see it tomorrow or the day after.
> Looking forward to getting some good temps since I keep topping out at 62c load at the moment.
> Going to get a second fan and run push/pull later on.


As Papasmurf mentioned above, the 212+ does not benefit much from having a 2nd fan for pull. It is more of a "want" than a "need" for these coolers since adding a 2nd fan will make very minimal change. I only did it on mine since I had an extra blademaster laying around, and I also wanted my HSF to look beefier lol.

If you do end up getting a second fan, don't forget the PWM Y-Pin if you want both fans to run together from the mobo.


----------



## Jaxlb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13456055*
> The second fan and P/P probably isn't going to be worth the time, trouble, or expense. You'll probably see less than 2C difference in temps. The main benefit from a P/P setup is to allow you to lower the RPM of both fans to reduce the noise and keep the temps about the same.


I want the 2 fans so I can run them at a lower RPM so there quieter and because it looks better with 2 fans.


----------



## Seventh Badger

Planning on upgrading all my fans to Scythes soon and adding a pusher to my HS, but this is mine as of right now







.


----------



## ArtistDeAlec

Hmm I'm not so sure I trust myself cutting my clips in half, might end up just messing it all up lol. I'm located in California, any idea as to where I can get myself some?


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArtistDeAlec;13463024*
> Hmm I'm not so sure I trust myself cutting my clips in half, might end up just messing it all up lol. I'm located in California, any idea as to where I can get myself some?


Are you referring to the PWM Y-Adapter? If you are.. here you go!

$3.00 shipped for sleeved.

$2.50 shipped for unsleeved.


----------



## Smithers

As recommended quite a few pages ago I replaced my arctic silver with the provided CM paste. Room temp is 71F. TMPIN1 (im assuming case temp) is 86F, cores are reading 88F and TMPIN0 is 105F/41C all at idle. Under prime95 load the cores are 93F and TMPIN0 is 111F/44C. Is this acceptable? I'm still getting blue screen which may be Vcore related. Under load my vcore (factory clock) is 1.23V.


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smithers;13467416*
> As recommended quite a few pages ago I replaced my arctic silver with the provided CM paste. Room temp is 71F. TMPIN1 (im assuming case temp) is 86F, cores are reading 88F and TMPIN0 is 105F/41C all at idle. Under prime95 load the cores are 93F and TMPIN0 is 111F/44C. Is this acceptable? I'm still getting blue screen which may be Vcore related. Under load my vcore (factory clock) is 1.23V.


93F is about 34-35C, which is very low for load temps. I believe the stock vcore is in the 1.30v to 1.35v range. Considering your load temps are really low, you get blue screen, and your vcore is at 1.23v.. it might be a vcore issue. Try bumping it up to the 1.30v - 1.35v range.


----------



## Gothiq

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/1010950-212-hyper-coolermaster.html

Put my name in asap!


----------



## Smithers

Crap. I forgot I had paused Prime95! Lets try this again except without the derp...

Under load:
TMPIN0: 57C/134F
TMPIN1: 35C/95F
CORES: 49C/119F
CPU Vcore: 1.28V
Room temp still at 71F.


----------



## Smithers

Just raised Vcore in the BIOS to 1.35V.
Under load:
TMPIN0: 59C/134F
TMPIN1: 36C/95F
CORES: 51C/119F
CPU Vcore: 1.33V

I'll see if I can get a stable 24 hours out of this setup. Damn these 1100T's run hot!


----------



## farmdve

I also have the CM Hyper 212+. Must say, temps dropped to about 11-12C less; and that's with the CM TIM.

Also, i have to ask. Do the requirements of the 212+ require blood? As i did get a nasty cut putting on the fan holders.


----------



## Krusher33

On the fins or...?


----------



## LostRib

How do I join?


----------



## lim

Lol would it count if I have a 212+ but I replaced the fans with Noctua's? Pics later tonight when I get home from school.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ArtistDeAlec*


Hmm I'm not so sure I trust myself cutting my clips in half, might end up just messing it all up lol. I'm located in California, any idea as to where I can get myself some?


You wouldn't want to cut the clips in half, only the foam pads.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothiq*


http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...lermaster.html

Put my name in asap!


No one to put your name in. The new Club Owner disappeared after a week and hasn't bothered to update anything since. But you are supposed to post a pick of your rig with the 212+ installed to join.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LostRib*


How do I join?


Since the Club Owner is absent and not doing his job post a pick of your system with the 212+ and consider yourself a member.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lim*


Lol would it count if I have a 212+ but I replaced the fans with Noctua's? Pics later tonight when I get home from school.


As far as I'm concerned it would count. I have a pair of High Speed Yate Loons on one of mine.


----------



## idaWHALE

Most definetly I think it would count. This is the hyper 212+ club not blade master


----------



## farmdve

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


On the fins or...?


On the fan holder.


----------



## marky_11

there are no blademaster fans available here in our country damn~


----------



## PapaSmurf

What country is that? Are you after maximum cooling or are you intended to run the fans at a slower speed to reduce noise?


----------



## marky_11

philippines

im want maximum cooling planing to push pull since im at 60c temps =))
yate loons in here are also rare.
the only available fans are the expensive flashy ones like xigmatek and scythe
there are coolermaster 90cfm available but they're not the pmw type


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


No one to put your name in. The new Club Owner disappeared after a week and hasn't bothered to update anything since. But you are supposed to post a pick of your rig with the 212+ installed to join.

Since the Club Owner is absent and not doing his job post a pick of your system with the 212+ and consider yourself a member.


Well first of all i gave the link to the thread i posted pictures. Now i really wont post em here because this place is dead.

2nd: Why not ask admin to hand over the authority to you? This can be easily done, so why waste time :s ?


----------



## abu46

i will be ordering an hyper 212+ tomorrow

will it fit in my CM elite 430 (190 x 424 x 490 mm, non transparent version) with asus m4a87td evo


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13477338*
> i will be ordering an hyper 212+ tomorrow
> 
> will it fit in my CM elite 430 (190 x 424 x 490 mm, non transparent version) with asus m4a87td evo


It fits in my Elite 334. 185 x 411 x 450 mm


----------



## kyuubi654

Anybody have the 212+ mounted on an Athlon 64 X2? I've got it in my rig and i get a max temp of 54*C with the CPU at 2.99GHz. It's a bit high, right? I've used the spread method direct on the cooler so that all the free places get filled with TIM.

I'm gonna get a new TIM (thinking about Arctic MX-4) to reseat the cooler and see how it turns out, but still curious if the temp's a bit high.


----------



## Gothiq

Arctic rules.


----------



## kyuubi654

Yeah, i've seen a TIM review on lab501 and MX-4 really seems to be the best choice


----------



## cinemur

ok, i know i am out of the topic right now, but just wanna say that as from today i have joined the club of proud cm h 212+ members


----------



## kyuubi654

welcome









though... i'm not really part of the club yet myself ^^ will post a pic later maybe.


----------



## Ellis

I've personally never really seen the point in being picky on TIM. There seems to be about a 1-2C difference between all of the popular ones, so I just say pick one and use it.

Unless you're really trying to push a chip to its absolute limits, that is. Although you probably wouldn't be using a Hyper 212+ if you were.


----------



## nowcontrol

^^Yeah agreed

I am using 'arctic silver ceramic' as per sig [AS/c] but only really down to it being a bang4buck choice as it was only £6.99 for 22g









Temps are fine for me and I have no need to buy anymore TIM for a long time now.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nowcontrol;13479019*
> ^^Yeah agreed
> 
> I am using 'arctic silver ceramic' as per sig [AS/c] but only really down to it being a bang4buck choice as it was only £6.99 for 22g
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps are fine for me and I have no need to buy anymore TIM for a long time now.


I'm just using what came with the 212+









The only reason I bought it was to reduce noise, though.


----------



## Smithers

Just so I'm clear I should trust he Core temps in HWmonitor, only TMPIN0? I wanted to make sure TMPIN0 wasn't my northbridge or some other non cpu related reading.


----------



## kyuubi654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;13478841*
> I've personally never really seen the point in being picky on TIM. There seems to be about a 1-2C difference between all of the popular ones, so I just say pick one and use it.
> 
> Unless you're really trying to push a chip to its absolute limits, that is. Although you probably wouldn't be using a Hyper 212+ if you were.


Check these test results here:

Arctic MX TIM
Cooler Master TIM

The temp difference may be 1-2 degrees under idle conditions, but under load it's already 10 degrees. That's more than enough reason to pick a popular TIM rather than stick with what you got with the cooler (although that one's good as well). Besides that, Arctic MX has been around for a really long time and has always been the best.
Quote:


> Just so I'm clear I should trust he Core temps in HWmonitor, only TMPIN0? I wanted to make sure TMPIN0 wasn't my northbridge or some other non cpu related reading.


Read Core#0, Core#1, etc. in HWMonitor for CPU temps.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *marky_11*


philippines

im want maximum cooling planing to push pull since im at 60c temps =))
yate loons in here are also rare.
the only available fans are the expensive flashy ones like xigmatek and scythe
there are coolermaster 90cfm available but they're not the pmw type


You would only lower temps by about 1.8C at best by going to two BladeMasters and the regular R4 Coolermasters aren't as efficient as the BladeMasters and in a Push/Pull setup wouldn't cool as well as a single BladeMaster. Based on what seems to be available in your area you might as well just stick with the single Blademaster.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothiq*


Well first of all i gave the link to the thread i posted pictures. Now i really wont post em here because this place is dead.

2nd: Why not ask admin to hand over the authority to you? This can be easily done, so why waste time :s ?


Because I don't want to take this club over. I already run four others.

As for the pic, I was just stating what the club owner had stated. I know that in any of the clubs I belong to a link to another thread for pics isn't considered acceptable, but you can do what you want.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kyuubi654*


Check these test results here:

Arctic MX TIM
Cooler Master TIM

The temp difference may be 1-2 degrees under idle conditions, but under load it's already 10 degrees. That's more than enough reason to pick a popular TIM rather than stick with what you got with the cooler (although that one's good as well). Besides that, Arctic MX has been around for a really long time and has always been the best.


You are looking at the WRONG CM TIM. The one that ships with the 212+ is the ThermalFusion 400 which is tied for second place in that test and actually beats the MX-2 and 3. But that test is on Graphic Cards, not Processors so it proves nothing useful here.

ThermalFusion has been around for quite awhile as well. But even in that test on Graphics Cards the difference between MX-2 or 3 and TF400 in less than C at full load.


----------



## Gothiq

ANYONE? ANY MOD? who can take over this club. This sucks! This is the most god damn popular HSF and no ones gives a damn!


----------



## kyuubi654

Quote:



You are looking at the WRONG CM TIM. The one that ships with the 212+ is the ThermalFusion 400 which is tied for second place in that test and actually beats the MX-2 and 3. But that test is on Graphic Cards, not Processors so it proves nothing useful here.

ThermalFusion has been around for quite awhile as well. But even in that test on Graphics Cards the difference between MX-2 or 3 and TF400 in less than C at full load.


How can you know that the grease that comes with the cooler is the TF 400? I've looked in a few places on the net (CM's website, xbitlabs, etc.) and there's no mention of it. It only shows up as CM thermal grease, and the packaging doesn't give that much info about it either.

Found a graph with TIM on CPU (a [email protected]) here. Sadly the MX-4 isn't included, because that one is already 2-3 degrees better than the MX-2.

And why doesn't a TIM test made on a GPU count? GPU's also get hot like crazy, and they used the same heatsink. You can clearly see the difference between the pastes applied in the same environment.


----------



## kcuestag

If someone is willing to offer themselves to maintain this thread, please send me a 'Private Message' and I'll look into merging the thread to someone else.


----------



## wooly

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kcuestag*


If someone is willing to offer themselves to maintain this thread, please send me a 'Private Message' and I'll look into merging the thread to someone else.










Papasmurf gets my vote


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wooly*


Papasmurf gets my vote


He said he is already looking after 4 clubs.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kyuubi654*


How can you know that the grease that comes with the cooler is the TF 400? I've looked in a few places on the net (CM's website, xbitlabs, etc.) and there's no mention of it. It only shows up as CM thermal grease, and the packaging doesn't give that much info about it either.

Found a graph with TIM on CPU (a [email protected]) here. Sadly the MX-4 isn't included, because that one is already 2-3 degrees better than the MX-2.

And why doesn't a TIM test made on a GPU count? GPU's also get hot like crazy, and they used the same heatsink. You can clearly see the difference between the pastes applied in the same environment.



Part of the reason we know that is because the regular CM Tim is an off White color while the ThermalFusion 400 is the only TIM from CM that is grey/silver in color. The other reason is the results that people who have used it are getting.

The reason a test on a GPU isn't the same as on a CPU is the heat spreader that is on the CPU's, but not the GPU's as well as the difference in heatsink size and construction. There is some validity to those tests, but not enough to go by them for a CPU.


----------



## kyuubi654

I see. Fair enough then


----------



## abu46

what is the correct method to apply TIM to a 212+??

i guess the rice grain method wont produce good result as it the base isnt flat (Cu pipes between Al base)

kindly point me to video/pictorial link?


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13488501*
> what is the correct method to apply TIM to a 212+??
> 
> i guess the rice grain method wont produce good result as it the base isnt flat (Cu pipes between Al base)
> 
> kindly point me to video/pictorial link?


Dude the base is as flat as it gets. I applied it through the syringe given. Just spread it leaving a bit of area. Like this.









Then just put it on and screw it up.

Yes i used to apply differently before. I used to put some amount of TIM on processor itself and used to put HSF on top. Not with this though.


----------



## abu46

^^
by flat what i meant was that it has gaps between pipes and the aluminum base.

the method that i applied with the stock heatsink was to apply a very thin layer of TIM on both the heatsink and the processor by spreading it on the surface with a credit card, will this method do for the 212 as well?


----------



## Gothiq

No there are no gaps.


----------



## chinesethunda

this sucks, the fans are too big and stick over my ram slots lol


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13488501*
> what is the correct method to apply TIM to a 212+??
> 
> i guess the rice grain method wont produce good result as it the base isnt flat (Cu pipes between Al base)
> 
> kindly point me to video/pictorial link?


http://www.overclock.net/12295518-post1058.html








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13489826*
> this sucks, the fans are too big and stick over my ram slots lol


Slide fan up.


----------



## xxsashixx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13490600*
> http://www.overclock.net/12295518-post1058.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slide fan up.


Thats alot of paste there, I'd do only two lines


----------



## Krusher33

I only did between the copper pipes and not on the outside. Can't seem to get mine to go over 35 degrees on load @ 3.6ghz oc.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gothiq;13489626*
> No there are no gaps.


You must be blind then. There are definitely gaps between the heatpipes and the base unless you received some modified version that none of the rest of us got.


----------



## PapaSmurf

I have updated the Hyper 212+ FAQ with information from compudaze's Push/Pull tests and some other information. Link in my sig.


----------



## Krusher33




----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13489826*
> this sucks, the fans are too big and stick over my ram slots lol


Fans? There's only 1 fan. Yeah slide them up or get a new mobo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13490874*
> You must be blind then. There are definitely gaps between the heatpipes and the base unless you received some modified version that none of the rest of us got.


I (definitely) didn't feel a thing. I first analyzed it with my eyes 'open', then finger tested it as people said its really smooth and that it was. No bumps no gaps no nothing. Just smoothness.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It also looks like the club owner decided to update the first post a couple of days ago. Unfortunately the FAQ information is several generations behind.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothiq*


Fans? There's only 1 fan. Yeah slide them up or get a new mobo.

I *defiantly* didn't feel a thing. I first analyzed it with my eyes 'open', then finger tested it as people said its really smooth and that it was. No bumps no gaps no nothing. Just smoothness.


Defiantly? What does Defiantly have to do with anything?

I can see sliding the fan up a bit, but I would think replacing the board would be a lot more expensive and work than just getting a different heatsink.

While the heatpipes are smooth and the surface of the base is smooth there are definitely spaces (cracks,crevices, gaps, or whatever word you want to us) between the heatpipes and the base. They are impossible to miss. They are clearly visible in all of the pics of the base posted in this thread including your own.


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Defiantly? What does Defiantly have to do with anything?

I can see sliding the fan up a bit, but I would think replacing the board would be a lot more expensive and work than just getting a different heatsink.

While the heatpipes are smooth and the surface of the base is smooth there are definitely spaces (cracks,crevices, gaps, or whatever word you want to us) between the heatpipes and the base. They are impossible to miss. They are clearly visible in all of the pics of the base posted in this thread including your own.


Definitely







. Still i didn't feel a thing. you think i didn't inspect my HSF?

Now stop coloring the damn word. What you gonna kill me now for a typo? Kill Firefox :S


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


I only did between the copper pipes and not on the outside. Can't seem to get mine to go over 35 degrees on load @ 3.6ghz oc.


Nice, I have my rig folding atm, It stays between 33-35 C at full load. Beast cooler. I'm sure I could OC it as far as I wanted to with this cooler.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothiq*


Definitely







. Still i didn't feel a thing. you think i didn't inspect my HSF?


You don't have to Feel it. Just look in between the heat pipes and the little parts of the aluminum base, there are small areas, since the heat pipes aren't perfectly square on the bottom, to match the aluminum. Hence the technique with the lines going down each of the aluminum strips, it fills in the gaps to either side between the aluminum base and the heatpipes


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*


You don't have to Feel it. Just look in between the heat pipes and the little parts of the aluminum base, there are small areas, since the heat pipes aren't perfectly square on the bottom, to match the aluminum. Hence the technique with the lines going down each of the aluminum strips, it fills in the gaps to either side between the aluminum base and the heatpipes


Sorry sir my was smooth as silk. Now i am not gonna take it off just to check again. I spent hours inspecting this thing. Period.

Start a new conversion now :/.


----------



## farmdve

I can confirm as well, there are no gaps. Mine is hovering at around 49-51 at full load. Way better and quieter than the stock cooler.


----------



## Gothiq

yeah its damn quite and cool. I think there may be a problem. My temps just dont go near 40C running prime95 for as long as possible. This is weird. The lowest i saw was 24C. highest 39C. These chips are designed for lota heat. But this doesn't seem to go near anything its designed for. and on top its HT. HT processors run way hotter.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*


Nice, I have my rig folding atm, It stays between 33-35 C at full load. Beast cooler. I'm sure I could OC it as far as I wanted to with this cooler.


Folding it's at around 32. I wanted to get more OC out of my chip so that I can compare with the H60 I got but how do I compare at these temps? lol

And mine had crevices, pot holes like gaps in between pipes and aluminum.


----------



## IXcrispyXI

well when i checked mine it looked and felt smooth but i put abit of paste and smoothed it around the base and wiped it off and there was some left over between the pipes and the block so there is a small gap between them. + i didnt feel it but i do have rough hands so that could explain why also.


----------



## Moonzi

*** I'm hitting 72Â°c degrees after 10 hours of Prime95...I want some cooler temps...although it's 15 degrees cooler then the previous HSF.


----------



## PapaSmurf

What are your ambient room temps?


----------



## Moonzi

70 - 72Â°f


----------



## PapaSmurf

That sounds about right to me, especially if you have HT enabled.


----------



## Moonzi

Oh ok then that makes me feel much better, thanks Papa.


----------



## Gothiq

I never see or hear my Hyper reving up







.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Do you have Q-Fan (or whatever Asus calls it) enabled in the bios? If not, it;s going to run at a constant speed at all times.


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothiq*


I never see or hear my Hyper reving up







.


At what RPM is your fan running? You most likely have the cool & quiet feature turned on in your bios. The blademaster fan running at 2000 RPM full speed is pretty audible. But then again, if you have case fans that are louder, you might not be able to hear the blademaster over those fans.


----------



## Gothiq

No thing is my temps are never high. I have enabled Q-Fan, without it things suck. and i have it on Performance mode. But still it wont go near 800rpm. When will things get hot? Gotta get a new procy just to check this things capabilities out now!


----------



## krnb0iek

Yea, the cooling on this heatsink is excellent. Seems to cool very well even under low fan speeds.


----------



## abu46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13490600*
> http://www.overclock.net/12295518-post1058.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slide fan up.


i should first fill up the gaps between the pipes and the block and then apply TIM via the line method, right?
also should i apply a thin layer on the processor too?


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13497010*
> i should first fill up the gaps between the pipes and the block and then apply TIM via the line method, right?
> also should i apply a thin layer on the processor too?


Yes, fill in the gaps first then apply thin lines. You won't need to apply a thin layer on the processor. It's better to apply as little as possible than over applying.


----------



## PapaSmurf

No. Just spread a line along the THREE aluminum strips between the heatpipes and mount it. Putting some on the cpu as well is a sure way to get air bubbles. My tests have shown that you get a better spread and lower temps by NOT cramming it in the gaps first.

Also, before you do that you need to run a straight edge from side to side (perpendicular to the heatipes) to make sure the aluminum base doesn't stick out further than the copper heatpipes. One of mine did and I lowered temps 5C by lightly lapping the aluminum so it was even with the heatpipes. It also evened out the temps of my four cores to with 2C of each other at full load instead of the 6-7C difference it had before. But be careful. Use a sharpie to put a mark across the heatpipes so you don't end up lapping them as well and accidently wear through them and ruin things.


----------



## abu46

but would not filling in the gaps affect the heat transfer!!

sorry, i didnt get the 2nd paragraph
you mean to say that all 4 copper pipes should be in contact with the cpu

Also i few pages back a member chinesethunda said *"the fans are too big and stick over my ram slots"* on his Gigabyte GA-H55 LGA1156 and i am worried if my Asus M4A87TD EVO will also have similar problem as ram slots a closer to the cpu


----------



## UCLAKoolman

I'd like to join the club! Installed mine today. Ran Crysis 2 @ 1080p for about an hour and temps only went up to 50 max. Very nice cooler, and it fit well in my Rosewill Gear X3 case. The fan does hit the first RAM slot, so I just slid it up a bit.


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *UCLAKoolman*


I'd like to join the club! Installed mine today. Ran Crysis 2 @ 1080p for about an hour and temps only went up to 50 max. Very nice cooler, and it fit well in my Rosewill Gear X3 case.* The fan does hit the first RAM slot, so I just slid it up a bit.*


That's what I did as well, I'm using 38mm deep Ultra Kaze's and the push fan covers the first two dimms. I actually think it's a good thing because it offsets the dead spots of both fans and theoretically should increase the cooling potential.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abu46*


but would not filling in the gaps affect the heat transfer!!

sorry, i didnt get the 2nd paragraph








you mean to say that all 4 copper pipes should be in contact with the cpu

Also i few pages back a member chinesethunda said *"the fans are too big and stick over my ram slots"* on his Gigabyte GA-H55 LGA1156 and i am worried if my Asus M4A87TD EVO will also have similar problem as ram slots a closer to the cpu


Yes. The 4 copper heatpipes absolutely HAVE to be in full contact with the CPU for the heatsink to function. If only the grey aluminum of the base comes in contact you essentially render the heatsink useless as it's ability to transfer the heat to the heatpipes would be greatly diminished.

The theory is that filling in the gaps will help with the heat transfer, but my tests have shown that not to be the case. I've tried applying the TIM just about every way imaginable except for applying the lines directly to the heatpipes themselves and I'll be trying that early next week after the Chimp Challenge is over.

As for your motherboard, the ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 seems to be okay. Not sure how much difference there is between that and yours though. But unless you have the really tall heatspreaders on your ram you shouldn't have a problem. You might need to slide the fan up just a bit to clear the ram closest to the cpu, but that should affect cooling enough to worry about. Maybe 1 or 2C at most, if even that much.


----------



## 179232

What paste do you guys find to be the best for the Hyper 212+? I tried a couple different ones from Shin Etsu, CM, and AS, and I found AS5 to be the best, even before curing time.


----------



## jach11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_CH_Skyline_;13503500*
> That's what I did as well, I'm using 38mm deep Ultra Kaze's and the push fan covers the first two dimms. I actually think it's a good thing because it offsets the dead spots of both fans and theoretically should increase the cooling potential.


i also have ultra kazes 3000rpms in push pull. But mine are from botton to the top. Exhausting to the top 140mm in my case. Good cooler though


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComradeNF;13507058*
> What paste do you guys find to be the best for the Hyper 212+? I tried a couple different ones from Shin Etsu, CM, and AS, and I found AS5 to be the best, even before curing time.


In order from best to worst of the ones I've tried.

Arctic Cooling MX-2 > Coolermaster Thermal Fusion 400 (what comes with the 212+) > AC MX-1 > IC Diamond 24 > > > > > AS5 for the testing I've done. I hate AS5 as it never gives me good results and never really has.


----------



## konoii

I am wondering whats the best fan that has blue leds that I can use with this cooler?


----------



## PapaSmurf

High Speed Yate Loon's by a land slide.


----------



## abu46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13503554*
> Yes. The 4 copper heatpipes absolutely HAVE to be in full contact with the CPU for the heatsink to function. If only the grey aluminum of the base comes in contact you essentially render the heatsink useless as it's ability to transfer the heat to the heatpipes would be greatly diminished.
> 
> The theory is that filling in the gaps will help with the heat transfer, but my tests have shown that not to be the case. I've tried applying the TIM just about every way imaginable except for applying the lines directly to the heatpipes themselves and I'll be trying that early next week after the Chimp Challenge is over.
> 
> As for your motherboard, the ASUS M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 seems to be okay. Not sure how much difference there is between that and yours though. But unless you have the really tall heatspreaders on your ram you shouldn't have a problem. You might need to slide the fan up just a bit to clear the ram closest to the cpu, but that should affect cooling enough to worry about. Maybe 1 or 2C at most, if even that much.


another logic that i can think of by not filling the gaps is that the after applying tim by line method it can find its way up those unfilled gaps.

is there a substantial diff. in temps. you got with and w/o filling the gaps??

reg. the mobo i guess i will only find by putting the cooler on, but yes the M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 has similar distance between cpu socket and ram slots and also that my ram dosent have heat spreaders!


----------



## mojosephwu

how can i enable pwm setting in extreme4? my blade master on my hyper 212+ runs at 2000 at all time, my dad complains that its super loud.... idk how to set it.


----------



## abu46

^^
you can change the settings in the bios
under power menu there would be an option named cpu q-fan
set it to silent or optimal


----------



## gunit2004

What do you guys think of the Yate Loon D12SL-12's push-pull setup on the front page of this thread? Would it be better or worse than the stock single fan that comes with the 212 performance and noise wise? I have a red theme going on and think it would look sweet in my case.


----------



## Shooter116

The Low speed Yate's are good, but personally I think the Medium speed's offer the best balance of noise and performance.

You may opt for a second stock Blademaster fan though, that way you can control them both w/ PVM. You'll need a 4pin Y-adapter for this, but they are pretty cheap.


----------



## gunit2004

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shooter116*


The Low speed Yate's are good, but personally I think the Medium speed's offer the best balance of noise and performance.

You may opt for a second stock Blademaster fan though, that way you can control them both w/ PVM. You'll need a 4pin Y-adapter for this, but they are pretty cheap.


So 2 Blademasters would definitely be better than the 2 Yate's on the first page of this thread?


----------



## Shooter116

In terms of potential cooling performance, yes. But they will definitely be louder if they run at max RPM, which is almost double that of the Yate's.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13509715*
> another logic that i can think of by not filling the gaps is that the after applying tim by line method it can find its way up those unfilled gaps.
> 
> is there a substantial diff. in temps. you got with and w/o filling the gaps??
> 
> reg. the mobo i guess i will only find by putting the cooler on, but yes the M4A88TD-V EVO/USB3 has similar distance between cpu socket and ram slots and also that my ram dosent have heat spreaders!


I noticed about 2C difference. But the big change was that the temps between all 4 cores was closer together than the other way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunit2004;13512175*
> What do you guys think of the Yate Loon D12SL-12's push-pull setup on the front page of this thread? Would it be better or worse than the stock single fan that comes with the 212 performance and noise wise? I have a red theme going on and think it would look sweet in my case.


A pair of Low Speed Yates would be a LOT quieter than the single Blademaster, but your temps would be several degrees higher. I would go with the Medium Speeds personally. A pair of them should be within a degree or so of the single BladeMaster and considerably quieter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shooter116;13512276*
> The Low speed Yate's are good, but personally I think the Medium speed's offer the best balance of noise and performance.
> 
> You may opt for a second stock Blademaster fan though, that way you can control them both w/ PVM. You'll need a 4pin Y-adapter for this, but they are pretty cheap.


Agreed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunit2004;13513029*
> So 2 Blademasters would definitely be better than the 2 Yate's on the first page of this thread?


Temp wise at full rpm from best to poorest.
2 Hi Speed Yates > 2 BladeMasters > Single Hi Speed Yate > Single BladeMaster > 2 Medium Yates or 2 BladeMasters at 1,600 rpms > > 2 Low Speed Yates. For the most part you'll probably only see 1-2C difference between any jump until you get to the low speed Yates.

As far as sound goes, it would be the reverse order. If you don't OC much then the 2 Low Speed Yates should be okay, but the Mediums give you more leeway. See this thread for some actual numbers. A Medium Speed Yate should give the same results as a BladeMaster at 1,600 RPMs.


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Here's mine


----------



## Atompunk

Hey guys, long time lurker, first time poster. Figured I would post a pic of my 212+ as my first post since I had my case open to remove my MB yesterday to exchange it for a B3 version.

A couple of things I encountered when I remounted my 212+. I had put way too much TIM on the first time I mounted it and wasn't sure that I had enough to remount it. So I picked up some Antec Formula 5 while at Micro Center. I was watching the temps last night to make sure that everything was ok after the MB swap. I was running around 34C - 35C idle temps and 57C-61C load temps, which was higher than I had previously been seeing. Decided this morning to remount the unit and use the TIM that came with the 212+ (since I discovered that I was using too much initially and had plenty left if I did it properly). Dropped my idle temps down to 29C-31C and my load temps to 47C - 51C. Going to pick up another fan for it this afternoon for a push pull set up.










And I know the cable management sucks...


----------



## kdb424

Mine is on the way. Add me in please!


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kdb424;13527301*
> Mine is on the way. Add me in please!


Pictures First.


----------



## OrangeBunnies

Proud owner since 2009, would love to be added to the member list.

Excuse the poor wiring.. at the time of taking this picture I was still putting it together.


----------



## Rand Al'Thor

Here's mine 212+ painted black. add me please










sorry for a bad photo.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rand Al'Thor;13528901*
> Here's mine 212+ painted black. add me please
> 
> sorry for a bad photo.


Did you just paint the top black or the entire heatsink? Did you notice any temp difference after painting?


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Yeah that'd be interesting to know if your temps have changed a lot since the painting, but what do I need to paint it for, you can't see through my case anyways







( My pic is on page 202 if you didn't see it


----------



## Rand Al'Thor

Entire thing and it look so much better painted black








Every1 is worried about that but I didn't notice any difference at all. Funny thing is that I had even better temp but it's plob 'cause of the better contact with the cpu and thermal paste filled in all the space between heat pipes then the installation before. That pic was from my previous system.

Cooler Master 690 II A
ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3
AMD Athlon II x3 435 @ 3.6GHz










Now I have

CM Elite 360
AMD Phenom II 955
MSI 770-C45

and no camera









waiting 4 the BD

I also did a little lapping of this cpu cooler before I got this new system in.
Still finding the best OC for 24/7

btw sorry 4 my bad english


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper;13520338*
> Here's mine


nice but is that saw dust in you case?


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Quote:



nice but is that saw dust in you case?



Good eye! That is sawdust, I was drilling a hole into my desk as the one for the cords was way to small to fit a DVI cable through









But that was in my old case, I will be cleaning up my room tomorrow, and I'll take some pictures of it in my new case, along with my whole desk area and Eyefinity.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rand Al'Thor*


Entire thing and it look so much better painted black








Every1 is worried about that but I didn't notice any difference at all. Funny thing is that I had even better temp but it's plob 'cause of the better contact with the cpu and thermal paste filled in all the space between heat pipes then the installation before. That pic was from my previous system.

Cooler Master 690 II A
ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3
AMD Athlon II x3 435 @ 3.6GHz










Now I have

CM Elite 360
AMD Phenom II 955
MSI 770-C45

and no camera









waiting 4 the BD

I also did a little lapping of this cpu cooler before I got this new system in.
Still finding the best OC for 24/7

btw sorry 4 my bad english










First off, your English looks pretty good to me. There are a lot of OCN members who grew up with English as their natural language, went thru high school and even graduated college (or university) who's English is much worse.

Nice to know that painting it black didn't mess with the temps. It does look like you did a heck of a job on it.


----------



## mfranco702

OK guys I join the club, I was kinda of curious about this cooler everybody was talking and saying good things about it, since in my local store was for only $27.00 I decided to give it a try.
Let me say a couple of things, I used to have an Antec Kuhler 620 and this baby simply outperforms the water cooler by 3 or 4C, my idle temps are around 30-33 and full load 65 C, those are almost the same temps I used to read with my old water cooler, 
The perfect setup is 2 fans in push/pull configuration, use fans with at least 2000 rpm and 70-85 FCM of airflow for better performance

After i finished the instalation, I returned my old water cooler to the store and I saved $50.00


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfranco702*


OK guys I join the club, I was kinda of curious about this cooler everybody was talking and saying good things about it, since in my local store was for only $27.00 I decided to give it a try.
Let me say a couple of things, I used to have an Antec Kuhler 620 and this baby simply outperforms the water cooler by 3 or 4C, my idle temps are around 30-33 and full load 65 C, those are almost the same temps I used to read with my old water cooler, 
The perfect setup is 2 fans in push/pull configuration, use fans with at least 2000 rpm and 70-85 FCM of airflow for better performance

After i finished the instalation, I returned my old water cooler to the store










Interesting that it would beat an Antec Kuhler 620. As much as I like the 212+ I never would have imagined that would happen.

You advice on the fans is the reason I recommend the BladeMaster that ships with the 212+ and the Hi Speed Yate Loons as they meed those specs. But you also need to factor in the Static Pressure, which is were most of the other fans that have the rpm's and cfm's come up short. I would be interested in knowing specifically which fans you are using on yours.


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Interesting that it would beat an Antec Kuhler 620. As much as I like the 212+ I never would have imagined that would happen.

You advice on the fans is the reason I recommend the BladeMaster that ships with the 212+ and the Hi Speed Yate Loons as they meed those specs. But you also need to factor in the Static Pressure, which is were most of the other fans that have the rpm's and cfm's come up short. I would be interested in knowing specifically which fans you are using on yours.


Right now im using a couple of Antec Tricool Blue led with speed control, they run at 60% under 60C and go full speed after 60C I played with some settings in the Bios, If you dont want lights in your fans a good option is the Cooler Master Excalibur, those beasts move a ton of air, not sure about the noise but 30dB seem to be alright for good performance.


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Beats liquid cooling? Why can't Cooler master make this for my GPU? ( Fan is SOOOOOOOO LOUD )


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper*


Good eye! That is sawdust, I was drilling a hole into my desk as the one for the cords was way to small to fit a DVI cable through









But that was in my old case, I will be cleaning up my room tomorrow, and I'll take some pictures of it in my new case, along with my whole desk area and Eyefinity.


no worries. i was just a little curious


----------



## chinesethunda

so i took off the blademaster and i put 2 yate loons on them lol heres the result


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfranco702*












Pretty computer!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


so i took off the blademaster and i put 2 yate loons on them lol heres the result










So, which Yates and how much temp difference and noise difference did you notice? We want details.


----------



## chinesethunda

well i haven't actually tested the temps, i have 2 yates on the heat sink as opposed to one blademaster, but the temps have been roughly 4-5 degrees though. its just about as loud not under a full load


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


well i haven't actually tested the temps, i have 2 yates on the heat sink as opposed to one blademaster, but the temps have been roughly 4-5 degrees though. its just about as loud not under a full load


But which Yates? The Low Speed, Medium Speed or High Speed?

And when you say roughly 4-5 degrees, does that mean higher or lower?


----------



## UCLAKoolman

Well I just gave my Core i5 2500K a small bump from 3.3 GHz to 4.0, and my idle temps only rose from 30 to 33 celcius, and never rose above 60 during 3DMark 11 benchmarks or 3 hours of Crysis 2. My 3DMark scores jumped 300 points as well after the overclock!

Score before overclock: http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1214713
Score after OC to 4.0 GHz: http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1214816

This is a great cooler! Is anyone else using it with the 2500K, and what are you overclocking to?


----------



## reizack

Hello,
I have just bought and installed that particular cpu cooler (hyper 212 plus) and i dont know how to overclock my cpu...i have changed something in bios and its speed has changed from 3.07 to 3.45..is there anything more i can do to increase its speed without making my system crash...

thanx in advance


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:



This is a great cooler! Is anyone else using it with the 2500K, and what are you overclocking to?


2500K 4.80 GHZ 1.392v still testing the temps just got it today





















, whats your peak voltage and max temp under prime95 stress?


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reizack*


Hello,
I have just bought and installed that particular cpu cooler (hyper 212 plus) and i dont know how to overclock my cpu...i have changed something in bios and its speed has changed from 3.07 to 3.45..is there anything more i can do to increase its speed without making my system crash...

thanx in advance


Maybe this Core i7 Overclocking Guide for beginners helps you


----------



## reizack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfranco702*


Maybe this Core i7 Overclocking Guide for beginners helps you


hmm excuse me is there anything less complicated...i mean i dont want to spend my time reading all that stuff...can u just suggest what to do with my system..i would really appreciate it!


----------



## reizack

what i have done so far is set the system turbo to enabled and change the CPU Bclock (FSB) from 133MHz to 150 MHz and the result is :
to reach 3.45GHz from 3.07GHz

If you need any specific info about my system just let me know


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reizack*


what i have done so far is set the system turbo to enabled and change the CPU Bclock (FSB) from 133MHz to 150 MHz and the result is :
to reach 3.45GHz from 3.07GHz

If you need any specific info about my system just let me know


Unfortunatelly we have different cpus Sandy Bridge Processors dont overclock like the 1st generation of i7's and i5's, thats why you need to read the guide, is for beginners so I dont think would be complicated


----------



## reizack

how do i know whether my cpu is sandy bridge?


----------



## Dr.Pepper

If your socket is LGA 1155. If it's LGA 1156, then it's a first gen i5 i7, etc.

@ Reizack If your system is the same that is below your sig, then you don't have a Sandy Bridge CPU


----------



## reizack

ive checked my cpu and its not sandy bridge...but what it that mean?can i overclock it as much as i want?or there is a limit where i stop?


----------



## CrowsZero

Add me in, i'm using this cooler as well!


----------



## chinesethunda

I got the medium speed fans, and they dropped my ambient temps by about 45 degrees and under load the temps stayed about the same strangely but after some more testing load temps only dropped 1-2 degrees using push pull compared to just one push using the blademaster


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UCLAKoolman;13534285*
> Well I just gave my Core i5 2500K a small bump from 3.3 GHz to 4.0, and my idle temps only rose from 30 to 33 celcius, and never rose above 60 during 3DMark 11 benchmarks or 3 hours of Crysis 2. My 3DMark scores jumped 300 points as well after the overclock!
> 
> Score before overclock: http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1214713
> Score after OC to 4.0 GHz: http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1214816
> 
> This is a great cooler! Is anyone else using it with the 2500K, and what are you overclocking to?


Small bump?!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reizack;13534412*
> hmm excuse me is there anything less complicated...i mean i dont want to spend my time reading all that stuff...can u just suggest what to do with my system..i would really appreciate it!


You can't be serious? You will need to do some research before overclocking or it's money down the drain...


----------



## UCLAKoolman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13536669*
> Small bump?!


The default processor settings allows it to automatically boost itself to 3.7 GHz. 4.0 can be achieved with only a multiplier change, so yeah its not a huge leap of faith. I ran Prime95 all night w/o problems. Lots of people are clocking the 2500K to 4.5-5.0 GHz on air-cooling, but I can't see myself doing that anytime soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702;13534327*
> 2500K 4.80 GHZ 1.392v still testing the temps just got it today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , whats your peak voltage and max temp under prime95 stress?


That's awesome if you can stably overclock that high! My peak temp was 56 degrees on core 3. I didn't check the peak voltage. Could you recommend a good program to check this?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UCLAKoolman;13538734*
> The default processor settings allows it to automatically boost itself to 3.7 GHz. 4.0 can be achieved with only a multiplier change, so yeah its not a huge leap of faith. I ran Prime95 all night w/o problems. Lots of people are clocking the 2500K to 4.5-5.0 GHz on air-cooling, but I can't see myself doing that anytime soon.


Oh I understand 3.7 to 4.0 as small bump. But 3.3 to 4.0 is pretty dang good bump IMO.


----------



## reizack

so after a lot of thought i decided to buy the new i7 2600k before the end of this summer...how much better is it going to be in comparison with my currect i7 950?


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Personally, I'd just wait and see what Bulldozer does. Although since I already have an AM3+ motherboard, I'll be going bulldozer either way, as It'll be cheaper. ( Hopefully )


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13535884*
> I got the medium speed fans, and they dropped my ambient temps by about 45 degrees and under load the temps stayed about the same strangely but after some more testing load temps only dropped 1-2 degrees using push pull compared to just one push using the blademaster


That's about what I have been expecting the Medium Yates to do in Push/Pull. Thanks for confirming it for me and saving me the expense of ordering another one to test it out with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reizack;13534412*
> hmm excuse me is there anything less complicated...i mean i dont want to spend my time reading all that stuff...can u just suggest what to do with my system..i would really appreciate it!


Overclocking isn't a set it and forget it type of process. You need to do some research and reading to learn how to do it right and why you make the changes you do. If you aren't willing to do the reading and work to learn how to do it right then you shouldn't be doing it at all.

Besides, why should those who took the time spending hours and hours of research and testing to learn the right way to do it just tell you all of the shortcuts? Sorry, it doesn't work that way. The people who wrote the guides have done the research and testing and took the time to post the guides for you to learn from. That is as much of a shortcut as you need, and definitely all of the shortcut you deserve. There is just something about someone asking for the information to be handed to them on a silver platter because they are too lazy to do any work themselves that just makes me want to just completely ignore them altogether and tell them to get lost.


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13540597*
> That's about what I have been expecting the Medium Yates to do in Push/Pull. Thanks for confirming it for me and saving me the expense of ordering another one to test it out with.
> 
> Overclocking isn't a set it and forget it type of process. You need to do some research and reading to learn how to do it right and why you make the changes you do. If you aren't willing to do the reading and work to learn how to do it right then you shouldn't be doing it at all.
> 
> Besides, why should those who took the time spending hours and hours of research and testing to learn the right way to do it just tell you all of the shortcuts? Sorry, it doesn't work that way. The people who wrote the guides have done the research and testing and took the time to post the guides for you to learn from. That is as much of a shortcut as you need, and definitely all of the shortcut you deserve. There is just something about someone asking for the information to be handed to them on a silver platter because they are too lazy to do any work themselves that just makes me want to just completely ignore them altogether and tell them to get lost.


Yeah, overclocking isn't something that's easy that's for sure, I still can't get my Athlon II over 3.63 when it's unlocked, although after much research I know it CAN do it, but the voltage it requires is waaay to high for me to use it like that every day. ( 1.6+ ) But then again Athlon IIs don't overclock that good either. The day I get bulldozer though, before I put it in, I'm going to volt the sh** out of my CPU, and see if I can't get a 4.5GHZ stable for more than 20 min. Of course it will be on a CM 212+ too.


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper;13542352*
> Yeah, overclocking isn't something that's easy that's for sure, I still can't get my Athlon II over 3.63 when it's unlocked, although after much research I know it CAN do it, but the voltage it requires is waaay to high for me to use it like that every day. ( 1.6+ ) But then again Athlon IIs don't overclock that good either. The day I get bulldozer though, before I put it in, I'm going to volt the sh** out of my CPU, and see if I can't get a 4.5GHZ stable for more than 20 min. Of course it will be on a CM 212+ too.


4.5 on an Athlon II?
Be careful with your mobo since you said its AM3+


----------



## PapaSmurf

Try it on a cold day. That's what I did to get an E2180 from 2.0 to 4.0GHz on a 212+. Opened the sliding door to the back porch on a 20 below 0F day and bundled up to get there. Took two hours for my fingers to return to normal, but it worked. It was only stable just long enough to grab a CPU-Z Validation, but that's all I wanted it for anyway.

If the weather where you live is entering summer try putting it in a room next to an air conditioner duct and crank it up to see if that helps.


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Yeah, I'm going to try and get at least 4. and 4.5 that'd be a WR??? has anyone OCd an Athlon II to 4.5? Sounds like fun either way







Yeah my 'board is AM3+ I can't wait for BULLDOZER, I'm all hyped up for it!!!!

Yeah, I'm going to pull out the old window AC, and stick a ducted fan right on the vent, and the other end of the duct right to the CM 212 PLUS! I have gotten 3.9 when I stuck it in the garage this winter. ( 1.58 v ) But I had no internet and little did I know that CPU-Z was out of date :'(


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper*


Yeah, I'm going to try and get at least 4. and 4.5 that'd be a WR??? has anyone OCd an Athlon II to 4.5? Sounds like fun either way







Yeah my 'board is AM3+ I can't wait for BULLDOZER, I'm all hyped up for it!!!!

Yeah, I'm going to pull out the old window AC, and stick a ducted fan right on the vent, and the other end of the duct right to the CM 212 PLUS! I have gotten 3.9 when I stuck it in the garage this winter. ( 1.58 v ) But I had no internet and little did I know that CPU-Z was out of date :'(


You can save the CPU-Z file to the hard drive or usb stick and submit it later on a different computer that is connected.


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Yeah I know that now, it just sucks I didn't know it then.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper*


Yeah, overclocking isn't something that's easy that's for sure, I still can't get my Athlon II over 3.63 when it's unlocked, although after much research I know it CAN do it, but the voltage it requires is waaay to high for me to use it like that every day. ( 1.6+ ) But then again Athlon IIs don't overclock that good either. The day I get bulldozer though, before I put it in, I'm going to volt the sh** out of my CPU, and see if I can't get a 4.5GHZ stable for more than 20 min. Of course it will be on a CM 212+ too.


Dude... so it's not just me then? Thought I was being too big of a newb trying to get it over 3.6. After a few times of bumping the voltage I'm like "this can't be right. Must be doing something wrong..."


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UCLAKoolman;13538734*
> The default processor settings allows it to automatically boost itself to 3.7 GHz. 4.0 can be achieved with only a multiplier change, so yeah its not a huge leap of faith. I ran Prime95 all night w/o problems. Lots of people are clocking the 2500K to 4.5-5.0 GHz on air-cooling, but I can't see myself doing that anytime soon.
> 
> That's awesome if you can stably overclock that high! My peak temp was 56 degrees on core 3. I didn't check the peak voltage. Could you recommend a good program to check this?


I believe you can get to 4.2 just changing the multiplier as long as you have a good cooler mine is stable at 4.80 ghz, up to this point we are talking about some serious heat in all cores but core 3 seems to be the hotter for me as well, with a peak temp of 84C, some of this chips can achieve 5.00 GHz with no problem with water coolers, I mean you can do with air but we are talking about 90C + I live in Nevada and in the summer gets pretty hot here, I really like the 212+ but I think imma go water during the summer or lower it to 4.5 Ghz










Here's mine at 5.00 GHz http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1816356 was stable for 4 hours until I stopped the test was kind of satisfied I wasnt really trying to leave it like that, it was just my goal

As for the monitoring program my Asus mobo came with AI suite sensor recorder and you can record your voltages and temps while stressing


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reizack;13539552*
> so after a lot of thought i decided to buy the new i7 2600k before the end of this summer...how much better is it going to be in comparison with my current i7 950?


I know this is off topic but i wanna make things clear for you:
No offense mate







but judging by ur knowledge overclocking isnt for you yet
before buying the chip consider that you might have to change the whole platform, (motherboard, cpu and maybe RAM) Since your i7 950 isnt socket 1155
As for comparison the 2600K is way better than the 950 (and I've read in some cases pairs with the X980 which is a 12 core chip) with less power consumption and higher clock besides since is a "K" Edition you can get it up to x57 multiplier where you will hit the wall
now, it all depends what u need it for? 2500K is excellent for gaming same as the 2600K the only difference is the Hyper Threading and an unnoticeable 100 mhz gap, but if you really wanna take it to the limit, start reading some guides about sandy bridge overclocking, that would be my advise.


----------



## reizack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13540597*
> That's about what I have been expecting the Medium Yates to do in Push/Pull. Thanks for confirming it for me and saving me the expense of ordering another one to test it out with.
> 
> Overclocking isn't a set it and forget it type of process. You need to do some research and reading to learn how to do it right and why you make the changes you do. If you aren't willing to do the reading and work to learn how to do it right then you shouldn't be doing it at all.
> 
> Besides, why should those who took the time spending hours and hours of research and testing to learn the right way to do it just tell you all of the shortcuts? Sorry, it doesn't work that way. The people who wrote the guides have done the research and testing and took the time to post the guides for you to learn from. That is as much of a shortcut as you need, and definitely all of the shortcut you deserve. There is just something about someone asking for the information to be handed to them on a silver platter because they are too lazy to do any work themselves that just makes me want to just completely ignore them altogether and tell them to get lost.


i asked if anyone could help me...i didnt demand anything


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33;13544678*
> Dude... so it's not just me then? Thought I was being too big of a newb trying to get it over 3.6. After a few times of bumping the voltage I'm like "this can't be right. Must be doing something wrong..."


You're not alone, Athlon IIs are a royal pain in the ass. My dad's Phenom II x3 720 unlocked and stable at 3.6 with stock cooling, although it did run hot there was no problem overclocking. So now it's at 3.2 and quite a bit less voltage, so it runs under 40c But still it's just crazy how bad the Athlon IIs suck.

Bulldozer should just be epic and give me 6ghz on air with 8 cores.


----------



## Projecks15

Just got this cooler!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper;13547916*
> You're not alone, Athlon IIs are a royal pain in the ass. My dad's Phenom II x3 720 unlocked and stable at 3.6 with stock cooling, although it did run hot there was no problem overclocking. So now it's at 3.2 and quite a bit less voltage, so it runs under 40c But still it's just crazy how bad the Athlon IIs suck.
> 
> Bulldozer should just be epic and give me 6ghz on air with 8 cores.


Okie dokie then. Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Projecks15;13547951*
> Just got this cooler!


----------



## reizack

there is just 1 thing i need to know...can i push my cpu's speed any further?the guy at the shop told me i can overclock it for 400MHz max..what do u say?


----------



## drufause

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reizack*


there is just 1 thing i need to know...can i push my cpu's speed any further?the guy at the shop told me i can overclock it for 400MHz max..what do u say?


It all depends on the main-board and ventilation. Yes people have pushed that proc to 4 gig on this cooler.

Here is a thread about it.
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...i7-950-d0.html


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reizack*


i asked if anyone could help me...i didnt demand anything


It sure sounded like you did. When people pointed you to the information on OC'ing your system you responded with "i dont want to spend my time reading all that stuff...can u just suggest what to do with my system". That sure sounds like you aren't willing to do any of the work yourself and expect it all to be handed to you. Sorry, but it doesn't work that way. Go do the reading and then come back if you have questions.


----------



## Krusher33

Right. We're willing to help. But you gotta read some beginner's guides first.


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Yeah I've got a friend that is the same way. I finally told him, fine you want it overclocked, give me $10 and a good cooler to work with and I'll do it for you







Although after that he was more willing to give it a good shot his self, although he can't get his Athlon x4 w/ C3 stepping past 3.2ghz is quite sad. ( Considering that mine is C2, and our coolers are the same. )

( Stock clocks are both 3ghz )


----------



## reizack

u finally talked me into it...it was my mistake smurf -.- ill read everything right after my exam


----------



## reizack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drufause;13552912*
> It all depends on the main-board and ventilation. Yes people have pushed that proc to 4 gig on this cooler.
> 
> Here is a thread about it.
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/844271-lets-get-my-i7-950-d0.html


i think that im not going to have any problems with that...ive got the foxconn flaming blade and fans on the front and rear of my case so the air follows a straight route


----------



## reizack

question ;
through my get-to-know the bios i came across some fan settings...they are all set to "by smart fan" and my question is whether to change them to full speed or not?


----------



## reizack

so after having read several topics abot overclocking i ended up reading one and by following it i reached 4GHz with 1.262 VTT...ive got one more question...when i go to the bios and open up the VTT voltage menu there are the voltages i can add i.e.(+0,20 MV ,+0,60 MV) written with white color and then i meat new values i.e.(+2,40 MV etc)written with red color..can i go any further than that?(1.262)


----------



## Dr.Pepper

There is generally not a limit, just cause it goes red doesn't mean you can't set it, its just not reccomended. Just wondering did you check if its stable with prime95?


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reizack*


so after having read several topics abot overclocking i ended up reading one and by following it i reached 4GHz with 1.262 VTT...ive got one more question...when i go to the bios and open up the VTT voltage menu there are the voltages i can add i.e.(+0,20 MV ,+0,60 MV) written with white color and then i meat new values i.e.(+2,40 MV etc)written with red color..can i go any further than that?(1.262)


If you are reaching 4.0 GHz with 1.26V Im pretty sure you can go a little higher just watch ur temps and run a blend stabilty test with prime95 for at least 12 hours to make it rock solid

Im not familiar with the highest safe voltage for the 920 but I wouldnt go any higher than 1.38V and a max temp of 68C, anything below that is ok, whats ur temps now at 4.0 ghz? The Hyper 212 should be doing a good job, To put some load on it try to compress a large file and see how responds, monitor ur temps under load and reply back.


----------



## reizack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mfranco702*


If you are reaching 4.0 GHz with 1.26V Im pretty sure you can go a little higher just watch ur temps and run a blend stabilty test with prime95 for at least 12 hours to make it rock solid

Im not familiar with the highest safe voltage for the 920 but I wouldnt go any higher than 1.38V and a max temp of 68C, anything below that is ok, whats ur temps now at 4.0 ghz? The Hyper 212 should be doing a good job, To put some load on it try to compress a large file and see how responds, monitor ur temps under load and reply back.


my motherboards overclocking utility panel shows 31C 87F...how can i calculate the average temperature of it?


----------



## reizack

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper*


There is generally not a limit, just cause it goes red doesn't mean you can't set it, its just not reccomended. Just wondering did you check if its stable with prime95?


i ran the intel burn test and the result was positive.im planning to ran the prime 95 test during the night


----------



## reizack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702;13560175*
> If you are reaching 4.0 GHz with 1.26V Im pretty sure you can go a little higher just watch ur temps and run a blend stabilty test with prime95 for at least 12 hours to make it rock solid
> 
> Im not familiar with the highest safe voltage for the 920 but I wouldnt go any higher than 1.38V and a max temp of 68C, anything below that is ok, whats ur temps now at 4.0 ghz? The Hyper 212 should be doing a good job, To put some load on it try to compress a large file and see how responds, monitor ur temps under load and reply back.


that means i can go higher than 1.26V as far as i have the 950?


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reizack;13560296*
> i ran the intel burn test and the result was positive.im planning to ran the prime 95 test during the night


Forget prime. Run linX.


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reizack;13560270*
> my motherboards overclocking utility panel shows 31C 87F...how can i calculate the average temperature of it?


Run the stress test and look at ur temps under load 31C must be idle temp, you need to watch out for load temps, use real temp , download it from techpowerup.com. if you can upload a screen shotku


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reizack*


that means i can go higher than 1.26V as far as i have the 950?


Im sorry i meant the 950 not the 920, take a screen shot of ur overclock with the cpuz window, the real temp and the prime or intel BT under load to see your real voltage and temps under load


----------



## reizack

here u go








during the stress test process


----------



## mfranco702

Looks kind of hot at 85C besides the second screenie is not viewable at all try to make it bigger!


----------



## reizack

working on it...i started a whole new procedure cuz i faced some overheating probs...


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reizack*


here u go


When you post screenshots you want to group the important info as close together as possible, crop the image to just that information, then resize the image to 1024 x 768 or 800 x 600 if at all possible. Posting a full 1920 x 1080 image of a complete desktop with only minimal pertinent information makes things more difficult for people as well as an unnecessary burden to people the many people who don't have fast internet connections or unlimited bandwidth. An image such as the one below is easier to read, is considerably smaller (as in 1/5th the size) than the one you posted, and still contains all of the necessary information.

As for you question about the fans. Leaving them at Smart Fan would allow the system to control the fan speed depending on the cpu temp. That means the fans would slow down when the system is at idle or under a small load to reduce noise, then ramp the fan speeds up as the cpu load increases. That way the fans aren't running at full speed all of the time making the system quieter. If you find the fan speed increasing and decreasing annoying like some people do then change it to full speed. At full load the temps should be the same, but at idle the temps would probably be a few degrees hotter, but that shouldn't affect the OC potential or system stability.


----------



## mountainking

Guys I'm installing my 212 onto my sandybridge rig please help...

I'm a little confused, what are the 4 black screws for or do I not need them for intel?

I have the backplate mounted correctly (i think? Using 1156 slot and put standoffs through whole, put them through the backplate on the other side and tightened the nuts) so far.

edit - can i use a paper towel and isopropyl alcohol to remove the thermal paste from the stock cooler.


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mountainking;13576667*
> Guys I'm installing my 212 onto my sandybridge rig please help...
> 
> I'm a little confused, what are the 4 black screws for or do I not need them for intel?
> 
> I have the backplate mounted correctly (i think? Using 1156 slot and put standoffs through whole, put them through the backplate on the other side and tightened the nuts) so far.
> 
> edit - can i use a paper towel and isopropyl alcohol to remove the thermal paste from the stock cooler.


Black screws are for another fan if you want a push/pull config.

papertowel: Yes.


----------



## drufause

Well i just ordered my Y cable to run push pull with a second blade master.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718001

Was thinking about getting these to test. The Coolermaster Excalibur.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103083&Tpk=coolermaster%20excalibur


----------



## mountainking

Okay well I just finished the install and I'm at 32C at idle with stock clock. Figured it would be lower... is this normal?

Also, I have the fan facing the back of the case should I switch to the other side?


----------



## drufause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mountainking;13577409*
> Okay well I just finished the install and I'm at 32C at idle with stock clock. Figured it would be lower... is this normal?
> 
> Also, I have the fan facing the back of the case should I switch to the other side?


Depdends. Is it pulling air towards the heatsink and the front of the tower and if it is was that intended.

The most popular method for a single fan is to put the fan on the same side as the front of the tower and push the air through the heat sink fins towards the back of the case.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mountainking;13577409*
> Okay well I just finished the install and I'm at 32C at idle with stock clock. Figured it would be lower... is this normal?
> 
> Also, I have the fan facing the back of the case should I switch to the other side?


Run a stress test. Idle temps don't mean much.

Fan direction is fine.


----------



## mountainking

Well I'm running prime 95 about 10 mins now, and my max temp on any of the cores is 53C on core 2.

edit - running the small ftt test.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drufause;13577382*
> Well i just ordered my Y cable to run push pull with a second blade master.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718001
> 
> Was thinking about getting these to test. The Coolermaster Excalibur.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103083&Tpk=coolermaster%20excalibur


You paid way too much for your Y splitter. $2.99 shipped from SVC sleeved.

I have heard conflicting results on the Excalibur's. I can't justify the cost of them personally, but I would love for someone to try them on a 212+ and do some valid comparisons between them and the Blademaster that it ships with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mountainking;13577409*
> Okay well I just finished the install and I'm at 32C at idle with stock clock. Figured it would be lower... is this normal?
> 
> Also, I have the fan facing the back of the case should I switch to the other side?


Idle temps are meaningless. The only thing that matters is load temps. A lot of temp sensors in cpus are extremely inaccurate at the lower level, especially below 35C which is about what the stock heatsink would give you at idle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mountainking;13578562*
> Well I'm running prime 95 about 10 mins now, and my max temp on any of the cores is 53C on core 2.
> 
> edit - running the small ftt test.


That sounds about right.


----------



## mountainking

Okay cool. Thanks smurf


----------



## PapaSmurf

No problem.

As for the fan (I forgot that in my last post), idealy it should be pushing air into the heatsink and directly out the back of the case instead of the other way around. That tends to work best overall. While it might not affect cpu temps, it pushes the hot air into the case the way you have it. Straight out the back is normally best as it pulls air past the ram helping to cool it which provides better overall temps.


----------



## mountainking

Well I switched the fan to the right side of the heatsink (closer to the front now instead of the back of the case). I can't get it lined up perfectly though because the ram is beneath the fan so the fan has to attach so it hangs a little past the heatsink about a half inch. Trying to decide which way to keep it now. Hmm.

edit - well I could move the ram to the 2 and 4 slots if I wanted to I guess. I think I'll do that.


----------



## PapaSmurf

That's worth a try.


----------



## icefire7454

What are some temps i should be getting on 2500k?

I think im a bit on the high side.. im getting aorund 33C on normal internet use and around 50C on high intensity gaming with bfbc2

Anyone want to help clarify norm temps?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icefire7454;13585763*
> What are some temps i should be getting on 2500k?
> 
> I think im a bit on the high side.. im getting aorund 33C on normal internet use and around 50C on high intensity gaming with bfbc2
> 
> Anyone want to help clarify norm temps?


Idle temps or low usage temps like that you would see with e-mailing, surfing the web, word processing, etc are essentially meaningless. What matters are Load temps, and depending on your vcore, the clock speed you are running (re: amount of OC), and your ambient room temps 50C sounds about right.


----------



## icefire7454

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13586544*
> Idle temps or low usage temps like that you would see with e-mailing, surfing the web, word processing, etc are essentially meaningless. What matters are Load temps, and depending on your vcore, the clock speed you are running (re: amount of OC), and your ambient room temps 50C sounds about right.


Alright thanks! i needed that clarification because i thought that my temps seemed a little high!


----------



## reizack

currently at 3.61GHz with 1.39VTT and 1.232 Vcore
idle temp 35-40C temp during stress tests 70-75C max
if i want to go higher do i have to increase my x58 IOH voltage setting?


----------



## UCLAKoolman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *icefire7454;13585763*
> What are some temps i should be getting on 2500k?
> 
> I think im a bit on the high side.. im getting aorund 33C on normal internet use and around 50C on high intensity gaming with bfbc2
> 
> Anyone want to help clarify norm temps?


that's what I'm getting with my 2500K @ 4.0 GHz. Using Prime95 my temps never went above 60.


----------



## grishkathefool

I have one on my Sandy.

I also have a question. My temperatures seem normal, so I don't have a reason to think anything is wrong. BUT, how come I can move my 212 around? Does it do this for everyone, or did I not install it right?

My idle temps are around 28C and my Load gets up to about 56C during an IBT x 10 run.


----------



## PapaSmurf

grish, it's normal for it to rotate a bit, but it shouldn't rock or slide around.


----------



## grishkathefool

kk, rotating a bit is a more accurate description of what it's doing.
my masscool HSF on my E8400 doesn't move at all, that's what had me concerned about the 212.

Thanks again, pappy


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Has anyone else noticed that this is page 212 on the CM Hyper 212+ Club page?


----------



## Shooter116

Ha, that's pretty awesome. This should have been a massive picture page!


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Well... I did clean my 212+ the other day.

My Poor Athlon 440 x3 will see 1.6v in a month or so

















Nice and clean sitting on my desk
















Back where it belongs, but not for too long, as It will go in my new case in 3 days


----------



## Shooter116

Maybe i'll snap some pics of mine tomorrow and come back to edit my post


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Go for it, I'll be doing the same, showing off my NZXT Whisper.







( It keeps the 6950 fan from irritating me when it's spinning at over 5500 rpms )


----------



## abu46

^^
nice cleaning job there Doc









mind sharing some cleaning tips...........


----------



## Dr.Pepper

I used compressed air to get rid of a lot of the dust, and then rinsed the cooler and cleaned the base with alcohol. ( The good 99% isopropyl stuff )

Now if only I had before and after pictures...









UPDATE, NEW CASE PHOTOS


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper;13595159*
> I used compressed air to get rid of a lot of the dust, and then rinsed the cooler and cleaned the base with alcohol. ( The good 99% isopropyl stuff )
> 
> Now if only I had before and after pictures...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UPDATE, NEW CASE PHOTOS


Clean is good. Could you elaborate on how you rinsed the cooler with the Iso Alcohol? I need to clean mine and that sounds like an interesting concept.


----------



## Gothiq

Just put your Heatsink without fan in the liquid. how hard does that sound smurf?


----------



## Xcrunner

http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1008615-official-gentle-typhoon-2150-group-buy.html#post13406499

Are these Gentle Typhoon's better than the stock blademaster fan?


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Yeah that's just what I did put it in a bucket, and submerged it, let it dry for a while, and put it back in. The only reason I didn't use water is 'cause it take forever to dry.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gothiq;13598342*
> Just put your Heatsink without fan in the liquid. how hard does that sound smurf?


I didn't say it was hard, I just wanted to know what method he used. Why do you have to go out of your way to make a federal case out of everything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xcrunner;13598381*
> http://www.overclock.net/other-cooling-discussions/1008615-official-gentle-typhoon-2150-group-buy.html#post13406499
> 
> Are these Gentle Typhoon's better than the stock blademaster fan?


Depends. They aren't as good at cooling at about 2 or 3C higher temps, but they are quieter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper;13598404*
> Yeah that's just what I did put it in a bucket, and submerged it, let it dry for a while, and put it back in. The only reason I didn't use water is 'cause it take forever to dry.


Plus the water can cause corrosion. Thanks for the clarification without any snarky comments or attitude. You must have access to cheaper Iso than I have around here.


----------



## Nizara

So I'm new to the entire forum. Hi!
Wanted to upgrade my old case...ended up upgrading a lot more


----------



## Xcrunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizara;13599743*
> So I'm new to the entire forum. Hi!
> Wanted to upgrade my old case...ended up upgrading a lot more


Welcome!

Nice build









btw... is your heatsink fan pushing hot air into the case?


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizara;13599743*
> So I'm new to the entire forum. Hi!
> Wanted to upgrade my old case...ended up upgrading a lot more


Welcome. Enjoy the stay.

and yeah why the fan this way? Or are you doing something we dont do normally?


----------



## iCrap

I just picked up a 212 today







can i join the club?


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizara;13599743*
> So I'm new to the entire forum. Hi!
> Wanted to upgrade my old case...ended up upgrading a lot more


it looks like a tx3 not a 212+

and just unclip the fan and put it on the other side of the heatsink to push air tward the back of the case


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;13600109*
> it looks like a tx3 not a 212+
> 
> and just unclip the fan and put it on the other side of the heatsink to push air tward the back of the case


Definitely looks like TX3.

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2922

But still he installed it wrong or for some reason installed the fan, the wrong way.


----------



## Nizara

Sooo...first off thank you for the warm welcome. Secondly, just flipped my fan to the other side







And lastly, guess I should look at the pictures of others' fans first next time before I post (yes, it's a TX3 apparently) Now I must get a 212!


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Yeah, I wondered why it was so small compared to a couple of huge graphics cards.. that reminds me, I need another 6970 for my B-day in 10 days... and a power supply upgrade. Ugggh. And some extra dough for when bulldozer comes out.


----------



## LeahHPC

Well I must have been bored or found this thread that interesting
I will be getting the CM 212+ tomorrow *love UPS tracking* and while reading this I decided on the 2nd Blade Master, along with the PWM splitter ( thanks for the link:thumb. The PnP looks so cool and the added benny of slower turning fans is nice as well, though I am a tad unsure of the direct pipe contact base. the unevenness i.e gaps and IMHO rough surface will need a delicate touch of lapping, maybe a few thou. My Ex OCZ base I had so shiny and flat you could do makeup in
None the less this thread has been very helpful in the decision to get this HSF, and when I have my CM Hyper212+ I will post the necessary pic and join the club.
BTW this will be going on my sig. system and have good hopes in seeing really nice results. Oh Ty Papa I think I will also stay with the Thermofusion.


----------



## Smoblikat

Has anyone (but me) ever tried mounting the 212+ VERTICALLY instead of normal? I just did and i dropped temps by 2 - 3C


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoblikat;13602773*
> Has anyone (but me) ever tried mounting the 212+ VERTICALLY instead of normal? I just did and i dropped temps by 2 - 3C


Several people have mounted it that way. It depends on their case and the airflow patterns in it as to it lowering or raising temps.


----------



## Reloaded83

New here and I'd like to join the club!


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizara;13600519*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sooo...first off thank you for the warm welcome. Secondly, just flipped my fan to the other side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And lastly, guess I should look at the pictures of others' fans first next time before I post (yes, it's a TX3 apparently) Now I must get a 212!


the tx3 isnt bad, not as good as the 212+, and definately better than intel stock coolers

watch the temps, i7 will downclock itself when it hits close to 90c


----------



## Moonzi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nizara;13599743*
> So I'm new to the entire forum. Hi!
> Wanted to upgrade my old case...ended up upgrading a lot more


well now, I have my fan the same way... - points for me!

I'll take some pictures tonight as well.


----------



## PUKED

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoblikat;13602773*
> Has anyone (but me) ever tried mounting the 212+ VERTICALLY instead of normal? I just did and i dropped temps by 2 - 3C


Nah, I've tried mounting the fan in push or pull, though. Push seems to lower the GPU and NB temps a bit, but pull drops the CPU by a couple of degrees. Seems like push + taping the sides might be the best of both worlds.


----------



## Dr.Pepper

For some reason, I lost about 5C when I went vertical, I guess it's just 'cause my case has no top vents that pull up, only push down, and now with my new case, there simply is no venting so I'm not even going to try and do it again


----------



## PapaSmurf

The case has a lot to do with how it would work. If you have no venting out the top then having it push the air out the back will normally be the best. Once my Sniper gets here and I move my sig rig to it I'll try it both ways to see if there is any difference in it.


----------



## Dr.Pepper

Yeah I don't know if anyone caught it, but I messed up, I said the temps went down, but they went up. Figures, sending stuff from a cell phone always messes you up somehow.


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr.Pepper;13625118*
> Yeah I don't know if anyone caught it, but I messed up, I said the temps went down, but they went up. Figures, sending stuff from a cell phone always messes you up somehow.


after reading your first one I was about to change to verticle to shave 5 degree then I was like waaaaaiiit a second haha
i was always curious about what the difference would be though


----------



## FreakyWickedMe

Heya all! =D I don't know should I ask this here. =( Anyway I was wondering will 212+ fit in ThermalTake V3? T^T
I'd rather buy this then N520 since everyone have nothing but good words for 212+.


----------



## PapaSmurf

This is as good a place as any to ask, and yes it will fit. That TT V3 is essentially a CoolerMaster Elite 430 series chassis and it will definitely fit it that.


----------



## reizack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13634051*
> This is as good a place as any to ask, and yes it will fit. That TT V3 is essentially a CoolerMaster Elite 430 series chassis and it will definitely fit it that.


actually the coolers ending is 5mm away from the panel...


----------



## duceanahalf

I just ordered a 212+ to replace my Zalman CNPS 9500 on my Q6600.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreakyWickedMe;13632128*
> Heya all! =D I don't know should I ask this here. =( Anyway I was wondering will 212+ fit in ThermalTake V3? T^T
> I'd rather buy this then N520 since everyone have nothing but good words for 212+.


i have a N520 on a E6750 running @ 3.3ghz, keeps it pretty cool, dont know the temps since that rig is at my brothers house


----------



## FreakyWickedMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13634051*
> This is as good a place as any to ask, and yes it will fit. That TT V3 is essentially a CoolerMaster Elite 430 series chassis and it will definitely fit it that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reizack;13634461*
> actually the coolers ending is 5mm away from the panel...


Thanks for the answers guys. I think I will have less space since I will cut the window and add plexi (it will be added on the inside). Will that be a problem? Plexi gonna be 3mm. Maybe I should put it outside.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duceanahalf;13639659*
> i have a N520 on a E6750 running @ 3.3ghz, keeps it pretty cool, dont know the temps since that rig is at my brothers house


I heard that N520 isn't good for quads. :/ I wanted to buy 212+ but heard that I need 20+ wide case, so I found N520, but heard that it isn't good for quads lol. Such PITA


----------



## anarhistor

What I would do to this cooler, I would solder the gaps between the heat pipes and then lap it to perfection. Thoughts?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreakyWickedMe;13640106*
> Thanks for the answers guys. I think I will have less space since I will cut the window and add plexi (it will be added on the inside). Will that be a problem? Plexi gonna be 3mm. Maybe I should put it outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I heard that N520 isn't good for quads. :/ I wanted to buy 212+ but heard that I need 20+ wide case, so I found N520, but heard that it isn't good for quads lol. Such PITA


The N520 isn't nearly as good as the 212+. It doesn't have the mass nor the fan capacity to come close to it.

I have a window on the inside of the side panel of my CM Elite 330 and the 212+ still fits fine. It's a bit close, but it fits. The 330 and the 430 use the same chassis the 330 just has the PSU at the top while the 430 has it at the bottom. The width is the same though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anarhistor;13640126*
> What I would do to this cooler, I would solder the gaps between the heat pipes and then lap it to perfection. Thoughts?


You would probably do more damage to the heatpipes than it would be worth. I can't see it making any difference in temps at all. It's the heatpipes that transfer the heat, not the aluminum base anyway. The base is essentially only there to keep the heatpipes in place and and to hold the mounting system. The base doesn't transfer the heat.


----------



## reizack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FreakyWickedMe;13640106*
> Thanks for the answers guys. I think I will have less space since I will cut the window and add plexi (it will be added on the inside). Will that be a problem? Plexi gonna be 3mm. Maybe I should put it outside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i would remove the rear panel if needed hehe


----------



## Nethermir

Hello, I recently joined the site and here is my 212+









I was in a hurry to finish the build and all I did is to put a line of TIM at the center and just squished the 212+ in. I didn't realize there are grooves that need to be filled. So far getting 32~40C (40C on Core 0 for some reason). And ramps up to 55~60C on IBT.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Hey guys I'm looking to upgrade my hyper 212. I'm looking for a cooler that performs well but is not ugly and asymmetrical like the D14. Any suggestions? I wish the cooler master V8 performed better because it sure looks awesome.


----------



## iCrap

you could just get some new fans for your CM212


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13646861*
> Hey guys I'm looking to upgrade my hyper 212. I'm looking for a cooler that performs well but is not ugly and asymmetrical like the D14. Any suggestions? I wish the cooler master V8 performed better because it sure looks awesome.


What are your ambient temps? Those temps don't sound terrible to me. You could always try reseating the heatsink, as well as getting a new fan like iCrap suggested. Then you could make a solid decision before you purchase a new heatsink.


----------



## anarhistor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13640171*
> You would probably do more damage to the heatpipes than it would be worth. I can't see it making any difference in temps at all. It's the heatpipes that transfer the heat, not the aluminum base anyway. The base is essentially only there to keep the heatpipes in place and and to hold the mounting system. The base doesn't transfer the heat.


I would solve by soldering exaclly the problem below and keep the same TIM distribution between pipes!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir;13646258*
> I was in a hurry to finish the build and all I did is to put a line of TIM at the center and just squished the 212+ in. I didn't realize there are grooves that need to be filled. So far getting 32~40C (40C on Core 0 for some reason). And ramps up to 55~60C on IBT.


----------



## Wabbit16

Ola guys, new 212 Plus owner here! And before I forget, here is a pic of the cooler, and of my temps this morning just before 6 o' clock









The ambient was around 7 degrees, and this was after 6 mins of idling (well, I quickly installed Crysis Warhead, but one can call that idling I suppose)


----------



## FiX

There is mine. looks like I'l need to reapply the TIM though


----------



## gunit2004

Here's my 212


----------



## wooly

damn that case is sexy. Is it quiet enough with all them fans?


----------



## gunit2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooly;13684852*
> damn that case is sexy. Is it quiet enough with all them fans?


Oh yeah... the HAF-X stock fans are silent (and I have them running at full speed too). All I hear is a nice wooshing sound of airflow and I have it sitting right next to me. There's another big fan on the side window panel that blows air into the case onto the video card area as well.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Very nice lookin HAF X indeed. I'd like to get some a led light kit for my HAF also, would look great lit up inside, plus you could actually see the ocn applique if there was light in there.. haha


----------



## ismet

Does adding another fan on the other side help with cooling?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ismet*


Does adding another fan on the other side help with cooling?


Nornally only 1 to 2C. The main benefit of two fans is to lower the fan speed of both to achieve the same cooling with a quieter system. 2 of the Blademasters running at app. 1,400 rpms will cool the same as the single Blademaster at 2,000 rpms, but will be considerably quieter.


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Nornally only 1 to 2C. The main benefit of two fans is to lower the fan speed of both to achieve the same cooling with a quieter system. 2 of the Blademasters running at app. 1,400 rpms will cool the same as the single Blademaster at 2,000 rpms, but will be considerably quieter.


Man, i ran the fan at 2k rpm and its damn quite.







.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gothiq*


Man, i ran the fan at 2k rpm and its damn quite.







.


It all depends on the case one is using, what other fans are installed in the case, if the case is on a carpeted floor or on the persons desk, and how noisy the room is among other variables how noisy one finds the BladeMaster fan.

It can also vary from person to person. I have tinnitus so I find the whooshing noise of 120 and 140mm fans to be soothing. People who don't suffer from that might find the sound more objectionable. It's all about perception.


----------



## Gothiq

At the moment i have my case opened and infront of my face. and i turned tha rpm to 2000. and it was like whispering. Best investemnt ever.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Sounds like you got one of the quieter ones. I'm used to the high speed Yate Loons so the Blademaster is relatively quiet by comparison. I'm about to move my sig rig into a CM Storm Sniper case with the 200mm fans and I'm wondering how that will affect my perception of the BladeMasters.


----------



## Shooter116

The Blademaster in my case was definitely the loudest 120mm fan I had. Even compared to the R4 fan which is also 2000 RPM. Though, all of the case fans I have are medium speed Yate Loons, which are ~1400 RPM. The good thing is that when using PWM, the Blademaster fan never exceeds 1500 RPM, so it's spot on with the Yate Loon that it is paired with in terms of noise.


----------



## abu46

FINALLY got the hyper 212+
though the red & blue leds dont match, but anyways..........

But i have only being able to get a 3-4C (37/55C and 40/58C) drop in idle and load temp Vs the stock amd cooler, the temps of all 4 cores
are same

I applied the CM TIM by filling the gaps and then putting a thin line of TIM on the Aluminum part
also, as you can see from the pics that my config is close to being like a push-pull
with the rear exhaust being close and inline with the 212+

Why am i getting so little drop in temps??
although my ambients are on a higher side and my systemis in a non AC room but then also just 3 ******* degrees!!!!








[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## SurfBuckeyesBC

There is a pic, it's not the best of the fan since its installed. Those that know it will recognize though.

Can I be added?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13707497*
> FINALLY got the hyper 212+
> though the red & blue leds dont match, but anyways..........
> 
> But i have only being able to get a 3-4C (37/55C and 40/58C) drop in idle and load temp Vs the stock amd cooler, the temps of all 4 cores
> are same
> 
> I applied the CM TIM by filling the gaps and then putting a thin line of TIM on the Aluminum part
> also, as you can see from the pics that my config is close to being like a push-pull
> with the rear exhaust being close and inline with the 212+
> 
> Why am i getting so little drop in temps??
> although my ambients are on a higher side and my systemis in a non AC room but then also just 3 ******* degrees!!!!


What fan are you using on the 212+? It definitely isn't the Blademaster that came with it which is probably quite a bit of the reason it isn't cooling as well.

Also, that isn't even close to being a Push/Pull setup. The pull fan is way too far away from the heatsink for that.

Next, did any of the tim end up on the actual heatpipes when you mounted it?

Was the ambient room temp the exact same temp (or within 1C) with both setups? If not, then you can't go by actual temps but by the amount of rise above ambient to compare them, and even that will only be somewhat accurate as the hotter the ambient room temps, the less efficient air cooling becomes.


----------



## abu46

its the same fan that came with the cooler!!
looks like the blademaster
heres the pic.

while i was filling or rather trying to fill the gaps the tim did end on the 4 heat pipes but a very thin layer, then i applied tim on the Aluminum part by line method as you had previously mentioned.

will it do any good if i mount the cooler vertically as i have vents on the top but no fan

and yes the ambients stayed the same


----------



## PapaSmurf

That isn't a BladeMaster. That looks more like the fan that comes with the original Hyper 212, not the 212 Plus. Does the entire heatsink look like this? If so, it's the older 212 that isn't nearly as efficient as the improved 212+ (Plus).

Either that, or someone put a different fan on the 212+ you bought as that is not the fan that ships with a 212+.


----------



## wompwomp

So I plan on getting one of these and was wondering could I just paint the top portion of this cooler flat black? I really hate the silver.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Sure. But you would need to clean it up with Isopropyl Alconol (not rubbing alcohol as it contains lubricating agents that will prevent the paint from sticking) first, then scuff it up, apply a couple of light coats of primer, then 3 or 4 light coats of color. If you don't do all of this you are just wasting your time and money.


----------



## wompwomp

Understood. Has anyone ever paint their 212? Pics?


----------



## clickhere.exe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp;13716186*
> Understood. Has anyone ever paint their 212? Pics?


I was actually thinking of painting mine too. I liked the black chrome finish on the Xig Dark Knight, so I was thinking of trying the paint that people normally use to tint tail lights:


----------



## wompwomp

I think they sell a blackchrome paint. And that's a sick em1 rofl.


----------



## abu46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13715336*
> That isn't a BladeMaster. That looks more like the fan that comes with the original Hyper 212, not the 212 Plus. Does the entire heatsink look like this? If so, it's the older 212 that isn't nearly as efficient as the improved 212+ (Plus).
> 
> Either that, or someone put a different fan on the 212+ you bought as that is not the fan that ships with a 212+.


i wont say that its the one that comes with the 212 coz if you look at the fan blades, they resemble the 212+ fan more that 212s

anyways since i bought it over ebay, it is possible that seller replaced the fan

Quote:


> Next, did any of the tim end up on the actual heatpipes when you mounted it?
> as i said


"while i was filling the gaps the tim did end on the 4 heat pipes but a very thin layer, then i applied tim on the Aluminum part by line method as you had previously mentioned."
can this be a cause of higher temps. should i reapply the tim??


----------



## PapaSmurf

Without seeing how the TIM spread it's difficult to tell, but I tend to doubt that it would make that much difference. That fan, on the other hand, could well be a problem. I can't find any information on it to know what the specs are. All of the pages that I find are in some oriental language that I don't speak and I don't find it listed on the Coolermaster site to know what CFM or Static Pressure it produces.


----------



## abu46

heres the exact fan that i got, its an XtraFlo
http://www.coolermaster.in/product.php?product_id=6680

it comes std. with the CM V6
http://bit.ly/ksBYEf


----------



## PapaSmurf

Okay. From what I can tell it's basically a BladeMaster with translucent housing and blades with LED's. Cooling wise I doubt there would be more than 1C difference between the two.

You might want to dismount the heatsink, check that all of the screws for the backplate are secured properly, check that the TIM spread evenly and fully, then remount it (applying new TIM if necessary) making sure all of the mounting screws are tightened down completely.

Also make sure that the heatsink isn't resting on one of the chipset heatsinks or other obstacle that would prevent the base from sitting perfectly flush on the cpu.


----------



## gooface

I just realized that my XIGMATEK HDT-S1283, and my XIGMATEK HDT-S1284EE arent compatible with my new 1155 setup, unless I buy a mounting kit for either one. my father has one of these(hyper 212+), he would sell to me for $25. Should I buy the mounting kit for the XIGMATEK cooler ($10) or just change over to the hyper 212+? which would be best for cooling my new 2500K?

also I have MX-4, and Ultra Kaze fans If I made the switch should I use them on this cooler?


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface;13734659*
> I just realized that my XIGMATEK HDT-S1283, and my XIGMATEK HDT-S1284EE arent compatible with my new 1155 setup, unless I buy a mounting kit for either one. my father has one of these(hyper 212+), he would sell to me for $25. Should I buy the mounting kit for the XIGMATEK cooler ($10) or just change over to the hyper 212+? which would be best for cooling my new 2500K?
> 
> also I have MX-4, and Ultra Kaze fans If I made the switch should I use them on this cooler?


Sucks that those Xigamatek are up to 775 stock-wise. I would say, get the CM 212+ and pair it with your UKs and you should be all set.

At the same time, you could sell them XIGMATEKs.


----------



## PapaSmurf

MX-4 is one of the best TIM's available so I would definitely use it if you have it.

I would go for the 212+. It fit's on most 1155 boards and is actually a slightly better heatsink than those Xiggy's.

I would go with the BladeMaster that comes with the 212+ personally, but it might be worth checking it with each to see which you like better. It would depend on which Ultra Kaze you have as to which would be better. The DFS123812L-1000 (1000rpm version) would be quieter than the stock Blademaster, but wouldn't cool nearly as well (probably 5C or higher temps). The DFS123812L-2000 (2000rpm version) would probably be about the same as the stock BladeMaster. The DFS123812H-3000 (3000rpm version) would be a couple of degrees C cooler than the Blademaster, but much louder. None of the Ultra Kaze's have PWM so you can't use that to control the fan speed to control noise like you can with the BladeMaster either.


----------



## gooface

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13734817*
> MX-4 is one of the best TIM's available so I would definitely use it if you have it.
> 
> I would go for the 212+. It fit's on most 1155 boards and is actually a slightly better heatsink than those Xiggy's.
> 
> I would go with the BladeMaster that comes with the 212+ personally, but it might be worth checking it with each to see which you like better. It would depend on which Ultra Kaze you have as to which would be better. The DFS123812L-1000 (1000rpm version) would be quieter than the stock Blademaster, but wouldn't cool nearly as well (probably 5C or higher temps). The DFS123812L-2000 (2000rpm version) would probably be about the same as the stock BladeMaster. The DFS123812H-3000 (3000rpm version) would be a couple of degrees C cooler than the Blademaster, but much louder. None of the Ultra Kaze's have PWM so you can't use that to control the fan speed to control noise like you can with the BladeMaster either.


yeah I have the 3000RPM variant fans, should I do a push pull with them? combo with the blademaster?


----------



## abu46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13720104*
> Okay. From what I can tell it's basically a BladeMaster with translucent housing and blades with LED's. Cooling wise I doubt there would be more than 1C difference between the two.
> 
> You might want to dismount the heatsink, check that all of the screws for the backplate are secured properly, check that the TIM spread evenly and fully, then remount it (applying new TIM if necessary) making sure all of the mounting screws are tightened down completely.
> 
> Also make sure that the heatsink isn't resting on one of the chipset heatsinks or other obstacle that would prevent the base from sitting perfectly flush on the cpu.


so that rules out the possibility of fan being the culprit

i checked the cooler today and it is properly mounted and resting only on the cpu, also all the nuts are properly tightened, although i didnt remove the cooler.

as you previously said about tim ending up on Cu pipes, i did end up with a layer of tim on them while filling the gaps, and when i applied the tim on Al by line method it is possible that it created a thick layer of tim,should a clean the 4 pipes and then re mount the cooler, or any other tips to lower the temps??

also is there a treatment time for the cm tim that comes with the cooler?


----------



## krnb0iek

Not sure if you answered this previously, but what's your ambient room temp? Is your processor overclocked at all? I get around 32-34 idle on my 955BE on 1.4375v. If I were you, I would try removing the heatsink, cleaning everything off, and reapplying.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gooface;13734859*
> yeah I have the 3000RPM variant fans, should I do a push pull with them? combo with the blademaster?


Try p/p with the Kaze's. Due to cfm and static pressure differences you probably wouldn't get good results trying a P/P with one of the Kaze's and the BM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13735345*
> so that rules out the possibility of fan being the culprit
> 
> i checked the cooler today and it is properly mounted and resting only on the cpu, also all the nuts are properly tightened, although i didnt remove the cooler.
> 
> as you previously said about tim ending up on Cu pipes, i did end up with a layer of tim on them while filling the gaps, and when i applied the tim on Al by line method it is possible that it created a thick layer of tim,should a clean the 4 pipes and then re mount the cooler, or any other tips to lower the temps??
> 
> also is there a treatment time for the cm tim that comes with the cooler?


Sounds like it's time to completely remove the heatsink, check the TIM pattern (and possibly post a pic of it here), clean it completely with Isopropyl Alcohon (not rubbing alcohol since it contains a lubricant which acts as an insulator), re-apply the TIM by running thin lines down the HEATPIPES, then re-mount the heatsink.


----------



## abu46

*@krnb0iek*
ambients are in range of 34s
no its not oced, and still the temps are 37 idle\55 load!

*@Papa*
removed the cooler and here are the pics of the spread
guess i used a bit too much tim so i reapplied after clearing off from the cu pipes and used lesser tim this time on the Al part, but the temps. remain the same

guess i wasted my money on this cooler, atleast it didnt worked for me as i expected, spending money on this to get a 3C temp diff, what a joke!!


----------



## Gothiq

May be it didn't work for you, but its working really nice for me.

Now in my honest opinion Hyper 212+ is made for all cpu's stock and till i3 and i'5 mid range oc'ing. If you are pushing then forget Hyper.

I sure will be using it even if i get the Quad Core.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I'm building a new rig soon and I decided to get a Corsair A70 to replace my Hyper 212 (just to try it out). I'm guessing I should get slightly better performance? Anybody made this switch?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13748626*
> *@krnb0iek*
> ambients are in range of 34s
> no its not oced, and still the temps are 37 idle\55 load!
> 
> *@Papa*
> removed the cooler and here are the pics of the spread
> guess i used a bit too much tim so i reapplied after clearing off from the cu pipes and used lesser tim this time on the Al part, but the temps. remain the same
> 
> guess i wasted my money on this cooler, atleast it didnt worked for me as i expected, spending money on this to get a 3C temp diff, what a joke!!


Holy way-too-much-TIM Batman!!


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13748626*
> *@krnb0iek*
> ambients are in range of 34s
> no its not oced, and still the temps are 37 idle\55 load!


if you are idling at 34s, then idle temps of 37 isn't so bad. if you are only 55 at load, gratz to you, im hitting 65 on load if that makes you feel a bit better lol. and yeah, way too much tim o.o putting thin tims over the heat pipes works for me best.

Also, can i join the club? Here is my 212+


----------



## OrangeBunnies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13748626*
> *@krnb0iek*
> ambients are in range of 34s
> no its not oced, and still the temps are 37 idle\55 load!
> 
> *@Papa*
> removed the cooler and here are the pics of the spread
> guess i used a bit too much tim so i reapplied after clearing off from the cu pipes and used lesser tim this time on the Al part, but the temps. remain the same
> 
> guess i wasted my money on this cooler, atleast it didnt worked for me as i expected, spending money on this to get a 3C temp diff, what a joke!!


Too much thermal paste can actually increase your temps as the heat has to travel through more material that is 20 to 40 times less thermally conductive than aluminum and copper. My i7-860 @ 3.5GHz (HT off) loads at 50C folding smp with an ambient room temp of 22C.

Here's the guide to applying thermal paste to direct heat pipe coolers:
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

And here is my CM 212... all lubed up and ready to sit on my CPU!


















And as PapaSmurf said, try using the purest isopropyl alcohol you can find, I used 70% because it's all I could get my hands on at the time. But I have ordered 60ml of Arctic Silver ArctiClean for future use.


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13748626*
> *@krnb0iek*
> ambients are in range of 34s
> no its not oced, and still the temps are 37 idle\55 load!
> 
> *@Papa*
> removed the cooler and here are the pics of the spread
> guess i used a bit too much tim so i reapplied after clearing off from the cu pipes and used lesser tim this time on the Al part, but the temps. remain the same
> 
> guess i wasted my money on this cooler, atleast it didnt worked for me as i expected, spending money on this to get a 3C temp diff, what a joke!!


Your ambient room temp seems quite high. Maybe that might be the cause. 34C is the same as around 93F, which is pretty high for room temp.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13748626*
> *@krnb0iek*
> ambients are in range of 34s
> no its not oced, and still the temps are 37 idle\55 load!
> 
> *@Papa*
> removed the cooler and here are the pics of the spread
> guess i used a bit too much tim so i reapplied after clearing off from the cu pipes and used lesser tim this time on the Al part, but the temps. remain the same
> 
> guess i wasted my money on this cooler, atleast it didnt worked for me as i expected, spending money on this to get a 3C temp diff, what a joke!!


Way too much TIM. And with ambient temps being 34C those are actually excellent temps. That's why it's always necessary to provide them when asking about temps. Idling at 3C over ambient and load of 21C over ambient is right in line with what one would expect. And remember that as the ambient temps go up the less efficient it is at cooling. That means that in a 34C room a load temp of 21C over ambient would be much more impressive than that same 21C over ambient at 22C.

I would say that aside from having too much TIM you are right where you should be temp wise. About the only way you are going to do better is by lowering the room temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gothiq;13748745*
> May be it didn't work for you, but its working really nice for me.
> 
> Now in my honest opinion Hyper 212+ is made for all cpu's stock and till i3 and i'5 mid range oc'ing. If you are pushing then forget Hyper.
> 
> I sure will be using it even if i get the Quad Core.


Not even close. It can handle just about anything with 4 or fewer cores. It's only the i7 9xx series with hyperthreading and some of the 6 core cpus when you try to OC them a lot. Other than that they are fine, especially for what you pay for them. To do better you would need to spend 3 times as much money.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13748766*
> I'm building a new rig soon and I decided to get a Corsair A70 to replace my Hyper 212 (just to try it out). I'm guessing I should get slightly better performance? Anybody made this switch?


I doubt you will see more than 1 or 2C difference with an A70 compared to a 212+, but I would be interested in seeing a side by side comparison especially with a 212+ with P/P BladeMasters.


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13750341*
> 
> Not even close. It can handle just about anything with 4 or fewer cores. It's only the i7 9xx series with hyperthreading and some of the 6 core cpus when you try to OC them a lot. Other than that they are fine, especially for what you pay for them. To do better you would need to spend 3 times as much money.


Isn't that what i said sir?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gothiq;13751188*
> Isn't that what i said sir?


That isn't the way I read your post. One should be able to really push the quad and dual core systems just fine. It's only the i7's with hyperthreading that it has a problem with. Even the 6 core AMD's can be pushed fairly hard.

But perhaps it's just semantics.


----------



## Gothiq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13751302*
> It's only the i7's with hyperthreading that it has a problem with.


I say again, isn't that what i said ?


----------



## abu46

guys i agree that i had put too much tim the first time, and to clarify, the pics i posted are the first time application one

but when i cleaned the the base and reapplied the tim (half of what i previously applied) it should have dropped the temps by atleast 1 degree, but even that didnt happen and my idle\load temps remained the same!!

one more thing, my fan os spinning @ 1500rpm on idle and it is set to "optimal" in bios
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeBunnies;13749128*
> Too much thermal paste can actually increase your temps as the heat has to travel through more material that is 20 to 40 times less thermally conductive than aluminum and copper. My i7-860 @ 3.5GHz (HT off) loads at 50C folding smp with an ambient room temp of 22C.
> 
> Here's the guide to applying thermal paste to direct heat pipe coolers:
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5
> 
> And here is my CM 212... all lubed up and ready to sit on my CPU!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And as PapaSmurf said, try using the purest isopropyl alcohol you can find, I used 70% because it's all I could get my hands on at the time. But I have ordered 60ml of Arctic Silver ArctiClean for future use.


you have applies the tim on the heat pipes themselves but in the link (which i also followed and had put the tim on aluminum) that you mentioned he has applied the tim on the aluminum surface
also i did you manage to fill the gaps so neatly
which is correct?


----------



## Shooter116

Both ways typically work well, at some point it comes down to preference. I put 3 somewhat fatter lines of tim on the aluminum dividers, and seem to get similar temps to those who have done it other ways. Sometimes it takes some experimenting though. When I first bought the cooler, I mounted it three times to get optimal temps.


----------



## abu46

^^
i did the same, putting 3 lines on Al dividers after filling in the gaps and applying no tim on the cpu but no progress!!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13754195*
> guys i agree that i had put too much tim the first time, and to clarify, the pics i posted are the first time application one
> 
> but when i cleaned the the base and reapplied the tim (half of what i previously applied) it should have dropped the temps by atleast 1 degree, but even that didnt happen and my idle\load temps remained the same!!
> 
> one more thing, my fan os spinning @ 1500rpm on idle and it is set to "optimal" in bios
> 
> you have applies the tim on the heat pipes themselves but in the link (which i also followed and had put the tim on aluminum) that you mentioned he has applied the tim on the aluminum surface
> which is correct?


If you're still not satisfied, then you'll need to spend more $. I'm sorry to hear you're disappointed but for the price you paid, that is actually pretty darn good.


----------



## KipH

I had a nice little talk to the fellas at Coolermaster at Computex (see my sig for more info) and they let it slip that a new revision of this will be out some time not quite soon.

They will not come out with a back plate for the new chips though. They are too small. This and similar coolers need to learn how to put the heat pipes closer together to make a smaller area. They are working on it.


----------



## OrangeBunnies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13754195*
> guys i agree that i had put too much tim the first time, and to clarify, the pics i posted are the first time application one
> 
> but when i cleaned the the base and reapplied the tim (half of what i previously applied) it should have dropped the temps by atleast 1 degree, but even that didnt happen and my idle\load temps remained the same!!
> 
> one more thing, my fan os spinning @ 1500rpm on idle and it is set to "optimal" in bios
> 
> you have applies the tim on the heat pipes themselves but in the link (which i also followed and had put the tim on aluminum) that you mentioned he has applied the tim on the aluminum surface
> also i did you manage to fill the gaps so neatly
> which is correct?


If your ambient room temps are actually 34C, the idle/load temps are quite good, however you should double check with another thermometer, as 34C is actually very hot and is quite uncomfortable.

As for the fan speed you can download ASUS AI Suite to control any PWM fan plugged into the mobo, you will find it listed under utilities.

You don't have to follow the guide for applying TIM exactly, especially since the one in the guide has 3 heat pipes and the CM 212+ has 4. You can put TIM on the aluminum or the copper pipes, I used my judgement based on how much I thought the TIM would spread, I could have made a mistake in my estimation, but my temperatures seem to be behaving themselves so far.

I filled the gaps by squeezing TIM over the gap then gently swiped a credit card across the surface perpendicular to the TIM from either directions, this forces the TIM into the gap, you may have to do it several times per gap to get it perfectly.

Filling in the gaps between the copper pipes and aluminum body is a must, otherwise you will lose a lot of thermal conduction that otherwise would have gone through the aluminum, it wouldn't blow up your CPU if you didn't fill in the gaps, but it would hinder it's maximum cooling capacity.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13750341*
> I doubt you will see more than 1 or 2C difference with an A70 compared to a 212+, but I would be interested in seeing a side by side comparison especially with a 212+ with P/P BladeMasters.


I am using P/P Blademasters at the moment on my 212+ and I top out at around 73C in IBT (SP1). I just ordered some Gelid PWM fans to go on the A70 whenever I start my build and I will try to do an apples-to-apples comparison then.

On a side note, the Gelids only push 58 CFM (at 1500 rpm) compared to the 78 CFM of the Blademasters so I may have to install the CM fans on the A70 if the Gelids aren't up to the task....


----------



## iCrap

Im not sure if i have joined this club yet.... Here is my modded CM212+

Lapped (slightly)
Closed sides
Shrouds
Push/pull fans

Overkill? Probably... Hope it helps though.


----------



## abu46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OrangeBunnies;13760392*
> If your ambient room temps are actually 34C, the idle/load temps are quite good, however you should double check with another thermometer, as 34C is actually very hot and is quite uncomfortable.
> 
> As for the fan speed you can download ASUS AI Suite to control any PWM fan plugged into the mobo, you will find it listed under utilities.
> 
> You don't have to follow the guide for applying TIM exactly, especially since the one in the guide has 3 heat pipes and the CM 212+ has 4. You can put TIM on the aluminum or the copper pipes, I used my judgement based on how much I thought the TIM would spread, I could have made a mistake in my estimation, but my temperatures seem to be behaving themselves so far.
> 
> I filled the gaps by squeezing TIM over the gap then gently swiped a credit card across the surface perpendicular to the TIM from either directions, this forces the TIM into the gap, you may have to do it several times per gap to get it perfectly.
> 
> Filling in the gaps between the copper pipes and aluminum body is a must, otherwise you will lose a lot of thermal conduction that otherwise would have gone through the aluminum, it wouldn't blow up your CPU if you didn't fill in the gaps, but it would hinder it's maximum cooling capacity.


well outside temps are 40C so i guess as i am in a non AC room my ambients should me about 34s

regarding the Al dividers i dont think they contribute in heat trasfer as Cu does so i was thinkin to put a layer of tim on them & filling the gaps while leaving the Cu pipes as it is and then mounting the HS w\o applying any tim
would that be right?


----------



## ismet

May I join? I ditched my tx3 and got a 212 plus.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Hey iCrap. Can you resize those images to something more appropriate? They don't need to be any larger than 1024x768 (heck even 800 x 600 would be more appropriate). Posting 2 images that total 9MB's in size is simply outrageous, inconsiderate, rude, and abusive. Nothing in any of them warrants them being that large. Remember that not everyone has unlimited bandwidth or a fast connection so images like that can be a major hardship to a lot of people.


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13778144*
> Hey iCrap. Can you resize those images to something more appropriate? They don't need to be any larger than 1024x768 (heck even 800 x 600 would be more appropriate). Posting 2 images that total 9MB's in size is simply outrageous, inconsiderate, rude, and abusive. Nothing in any of them warrants them being that large. Remember that not everyone has unlimited bandwidth or a fast connection so images like that can be a major hardship to a lot of people.


Sorry about that, they should be fixed now.
Just posted them direct from my camera and i didn't notice the size.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Thank you. That's much better.


----------



## abu46

today i oced my 955 to 3.4ghz by raising the multiplier

the idle temp was 40C but the strange thing was that the load temps were 54C with 30min. crysis2 gameplay, which is the same temp. as i get @3.2ghz!!!

isnt that a bit strange


----------



## Shooter116

Probably because you didn't change the CPU voltage.. I assume?

Until you start increasing that, you won't see much temp increase.


----------



## abu46

ok
guess i can raise the multiplier even more then..


----------



## Shooter116

Just don't forget to test for stability


----------



## abu46

sure


----------



## clickhere.exe

Has anyone tried polishing the top aluminum fin to a mirror finish? Would look pretty boss.


----------



## PapaSmurf

No, but I'm considering using some DupliColor MetalCast on the top fin of mine to add a bit of contrast to the rest of my setup.


----------



## Krusher33

You better post a pic!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Krusher33*


You better post a pic!


Never.


----------



## n1helix

I also have a 212+

Woot!!


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13803311*
> Never.


----------



## abu46

Heres the result of test comparing various tim application method

really strange, bet it dosent apply to HDT coolers


----------



## PapaSmurf

There's another problem with that test/review. They used WAY too much compound when they did the Line (they call it stripe) method. Plus it also depends on which TIM it is as to how they spread with the various methods. All in all I was very disappointed in that review. It just isn't up to the standards of their Power Supply reviews.


----------



## abu46

totally agree
looks like it was done just for the sake of it, otherwise their reviews are pretty good


----------



## Yetyhunter

I have a question regarding the exhaust method.
I have the CM690 II case and as you know it has a 120mm rear exhaust fan and a 140mm top exhaust fan(+another 120mm in my case) so is it better to make the hyper exhaust upwards towards the 140mm or in the rear?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Usually it's better out the back, but it is worth trying both ways. What makes out the back better is you aren't drawing in hot air from the graphics cards like you would blowing up. Plus, flowing front to back it draws air past and over your ram which can aid in cooling them. If you have the 3 5.25" bays open you might want to install a 120mm fan in them blowing towards the heatsink to move cool outside air towards it. Quite often that will lower cpu and ram temps 2 to 4C. You can use some zip ties or strips of foam to hold the fan there.


----------



## abu46

could you post some pics for such a mount

wana give it a try as i have 2 drive bays empty right in front of the cooler fan, the only thing i am worried about is the vibrations


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abu46*


could you post some pics for such a mount

wana give it a try as i have 2 drive bays empty right in front of the cooler fan, the only thing i am worried about is the vibrations


With 2 empty 5.25" drive bays, you wont be able to fit a 120mm fan properly.


----------



## iCrap

Yea you need 3 empty drive bays.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abu46*


could you post some pics for such a mount

wana give it a try as i have 2 drive bays empty right in front of the cooler fan, the only thing i am worried about is the vibrations


Most people just ziptie the fans in to whatever they can inside. Holes in the sides where the drive bays screw in or whatever they can get a zip tie to hook to.


----------



## ismet

That's ghetto. But, I guess function over form wins.


----------



## iCrap

On mine i used double sided tape to stick it to the drive bays... ehume has a whole thread about this.


----------



## Markeh

I'm soon getting myself a H212+ for my sigrig, as the stock cooler is a bit too noisy for my liking. I'm a bit concerned about installation and TIM application, as well as a rough idea on temp and noise improvements.

I get about 34c idle and 47c at load (DiRT 3... my rig has never worked properly with Prime95, yet passes all other tests fine). I guess the best method of application is via credit card, as seen somewhere around page 110 or something. Now for installation from what I gather, I'll have to rip the board out of the case.


----------



## grishkathefool

I flipped my rear fan to be an intake. Now it pushes cool air directly at my 212. The 212 fan is pulling air through it, located almost over the DIMMs. I have a 120 blow hole above that, sucking all the air out the top. In sum, I have cool air being pulled in from the front and rear of the case and being exhausted via the PSU and the blow hole.


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Markeh;13824581*
> I'm soon getting myself a H212+ for my sigrig, as the stock cooler is a bit too noisy for my liking. I'm a bit concerned about installation and TIM application, as well as a rough idea on temp and noise improvements.
> 
> I get about 34c idle and 47c at load (DiRT 3... my rig has never worked properly with Prime95, yet passes all other tests fine). I guess the best method of application is via credit card, as seen somewhere around page 110 or something. Now for installation from what I gather, I'll have to rip the board out of the case.


if its crashing with prime95, up the ram voltage a little

open the other side of the case to see if ther is an opening in the mobo tray


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Markeh;13824581*
> I'm soon getting myself a H212+ for my sigrig, as the stock cooler is a bit too noisy for my liking. I'm a bit concerned about installation and TIM application, as well as a rough idea on temp and noise improvements.
> 
> I get about 34c idle and 47c at load (DiRT 3... my rig has never worked properly with Prime95, yet passes all other tests fine). I guess the best method of application is via credit card, as seen somewhere around page 110 or something. Now for installation from what I gather, I'll have to rip the board out of the case.


The Zalman Z7 Plus has a cpu retention plate access hole in the motherboard tray so you probably will not need to remove the mobo to install it.

See the Hyper 212+ FAQ in my sig for instructions for properly applying the TIM.

34C Idle and 47C at load are actually very good temps, especially for a stock cooler. That gives you some room to raise your vcore a bit for stability. When you run Prime, a hard lock or BSOD (especially the 0x124 BSOD} is usually lack of vcore or vtt, but when one core fails a prime test while the others plug away it is generally an mch or ref voltage.


----------



## abu46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krnb0iek*


With 2 empty 5.25" drive bays, you wont be able to fit a 120mm fan properly.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *iCrap*


Yea you need 3 empty drive bays.


i will be putting an 80mm fan, which will fit fine in 2 empty drive bays that i have

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*


Most people just ziptie the fans in to whatever they can inside. Holes in the sides where the drive bays screw in or whatever they can get a zip tie to hook to.


guess zip ties can loosen over time and produce vibration and noise, though using double sided tape can be handy as iCrap said


----------



## Markeh

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ffejrxx*


if its crashing with prime95, up the ram voltage a little

open the other side of the case to see if ther is an opening in the mobo tray


Upping the RAM voltage causes 0x124 BSODs.
Having said that however, I've not tried P95 since I lowered my RAM voltage (was at 1.65 with BSODs, back down at 1.5 and it's been fine since)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


The Zalman Z7 Plus has a cpu retention plate access hole in the motherboard tray so you probably will not need to remove the mobo to install it.

See the Hyper 212+ FAQ in my sig for instructions for properly applying the TIM.

34C Idle and 47C at load are actually very good temps, especially for a stock cooler. That gives you some room to raise your vcore a bit for stability. When you run Prime, a hard lock or BSOD (especially the 0x124 BSOD} is usually lack of vcore or vtt, but when one core fails a prime test while the others plug away it is generally an mch or ref voltage.


I do have good temps I think, but the noise of that thing.. it's appalling. It's getting quieter, though, strangely, as the days go on...

As said above, 0x124 BSOD occured when my RAM voltage was at 1.65 (raised it to that about a week after I built the rig, as we were having BSODs with Windows quite frequently)
(but not when running Prime, it just occured every 6 days or so). Since I lowered it to 1.5, which was about November, it's never skipped a beat. I might try running Prime again, I've not run it in a while (since the 955 or the 6870 were installed)


----------



## abu46

i was thinking of moving my case's exhaust fan to push config. on my 212+ as the exhaust hole is in line and only few centimeters away from my 212

will it have drastic effect on overall case cooling??


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abu46*


i was thinking of moving my case's exhaust fan to push config. on my 212+ as the exhaust hole is in line and only few centimeters away from my 212

will it have drastic effect on overall case cooling??


Will you still have enough exhaust airflow? Keep in mind that you want to maintain a negative airflow in your case, meaning more air exhaust than air intake to prevent dead spots.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13879028*
> i was thinking of moving my case's exhaust fan to push config. on my 212+ as the exhaust hole is in line and only few centimeters away from my 212
> 
> will it have drastic effect on overall case cooling??


Give it a try. But if you do you'll need to change the fan(s) on the 212+ to correspond to it and add some sort of front exhaust. The lower front intake that blows on the hard drives needs to be left as an intake fan otherwise the hard drives will more than likely overheat and fail sooner than they should. You could probably mount a 120mm fan in the 5.25" bays blowing out the front if you don't have them full of drives or other items.


----------



## Lindyrig

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718001&cm_re=PWM_Y_Cable-_-12-718-001-_-Product

Spendy but nice nylon braid on the cable.

PMW Y Cable for optimal airflow in Push/Pull setups.


----------



## *AcidBath*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13879028*
> i was thinking of moving my case's exhaust fan to push config. on my 212+ as the exhaust hole is in line and only few centimeters away from my 212
> 
> will it have drastic effect on overall case cooling??


Removing the case exhaust fan from its mount and placing it on your 212+ for a push/pull configuration will reduce your overall case airflow; doing this is a not a good idea (unless you reinforce your case airflow with other means as mentioned previously).


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lindyrig;13885136*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718001&cm_re=PWM_Y_Cable-_-12-718-001-_-Product
> 
> Spendy but nice nylon braid on the cable.
> 
> PMW Y Cable for optimal airflow in Push/Pull setups.


These are $2.99 here:

http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12bks.html


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krnb0iek;13885233*
> These are $2.99 here:
> 
> http://www.svc.com/fc444pwm-12bks.html


I'm using the un-sleeved version of that one. Only $2.49 shipped. Since I had a lot of sleeve laying around I sleeved it myself. Put both leads in one sleeve to make it even more tidy than those. I just wish they were about 3 or 4" long instead of 12". Way too long for most setups.


----------



## Lindyrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13885541*
> I'm using the un-sleeved version of that one. Only $2.49 shipped. Since I had a lot of sleeve laying around I sleeved it myself. Put both leads in one sleeve to make it even more tidy than those. I just wish they were about 3 or 4" long instead of 12". Way too long for most setups.


Agreed.


----------



## bllarkin

I just picked up a 212+. My load temps (with Prime95) dropped 15+ degrees! Is it normal for one core to be lower than the rest? My first core is running around 44-45 at load, the rest are running 46-48.


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bllarkin;13886770*
> I just picked up a 212+. My load temps (with Prime95) dropped 15+ degrees! Is it normal for one core to be lower than the rest? My first core is running around 44-45 at load, the rest are running 46-48.


It might be due to uneven spread of thermal paste. Which method did you use to apply your thermal paste?


----------



## bllarkin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krnb0iek;13886831*
> It might be due to uneven spread of thermal paste. Which method did you use to apply your thermal paste?


2 lines on the bottom of the cooler. I'll have to pull it off and check the spread and probably reapply.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bllarkin;13886770*
> I just picked up a 212+. My load temps (with Prime95) dropped 15+ degrees! Is it normal for one core to be lower than the rest? My first core is running around 44-45 at load, the rest are running 46-48.


Not at all unusual for quad cores. Using lines on all 4 of the heatpipes might help, but I tend to doubt it. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it and would leave it alone.


----------



## bllarkin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13887340*
> Not at all unusual for quad cores. Using lines on all 4 of the heatpipes might help, but I tend to doubt it. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it and would leave it alone.


Thanks PapaSmurf. I'll leave it as it then. Now I'm all prepped to OC when I'm ready


----------



## clickhere.exe

Last night I finally put my rig together and checked the temps with HW Monitor.

Ambient was 23C, and temps for idle varied 23-26C. This is the first time I've applied paste to an HDT cooler, are these figures acceptable?

I filled in the channels and put half-a-centimetre strips between each copper pipe as my application method.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Sounds about right if the cpu is running at stock speeds with SpeedStep enabled. But idle temps are basically meaningless and normally fairly inaccurate. What matters are your temps under full load.


----------



## clickhere.exe

Yeah I'm stock and havent played with any settings at all.

I'm going to do some stress-testing of all the hardware in my system for the load temps, but I dont know which programs are the best. Prime95 and memtest86 and 3Dmark seem popular, but are there any others that I should use?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Aside from memtest86 the only stress tester I use is StressCPU. I start it up and run it overnight. If it's still running in the morning I shut it down and start the Folding @ Home SMP Client on the system and run that 24/7/365. I don't use crap like Prime, IBT, OCCT, etc. as they don't tell me anything useful about the stability of my system. I've seen way too many systems pass IBT and run Prime or some other artificial stress test program for 24 hours or more and fall flat on their face within a few minutes of running the [email protected] SMP Client so I can't see how they do any good.

3DMark basically only tells you about your video subsystem and I'm not that sure how good of a job it does at that.


----------



## clickhere.exe

Thanks for the heads ups! About the 3dMarks thing: a user on here told me to use it because I was concerned about the functionality of my GPU. I bought it open box so I wasn't sure if there was anything wrong with it. I installed the drivers and seems like its working like it should.


----------



## kayoh

Can I be added to the club? thanks


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clickhere.exe;13890239*
> Thanks for the heads ups! About the 3dMarks thing: a user on here told me to use it because I was concerned about the functionality of my GPU. I bought it open box so I wasn't sure if there was anything wrong with it. I installed the drivers and seems like its working like it should.


3DMark is more of a benchmark than a stress tester. You'll probably want to post in the nVidia GPU section here at OCN to see what they recommend for stress testing gpus.


----------



## adamxatomic

Can you add me to the club too please?
Thanks! =D


----------



## iCrap

What fans are on your 212?


----------



## grishkathefool

@adamxatomic

I love your sleeving, very nice.


----------



## adamxatomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap;13896407*
> What fans are on your 212?


They are actually these Rosewill fans. They aren't super high end, but they do a damn good job. Load temp is 56c with a 25% OC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grishkathefool;13897125*
> @adamxatomic
> 
> I love your sleeving, very nice.


Actually they are just mod/smart extensions. I wasn't sure if i wanted red or white so I just got extensions to see how the white would look. Eventually I'll sleeve the whole PSU. I'll probably go with red though.


----------



## grishkathefool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adamxatomic;13897574*
> Actually they are just mod/smart extensions. I wasn't sure if i wanted red or white so I just got extensions to see how the white would look. Eventually I'll sleeve the whole PSU. *I'll probably go with red though.*


BLECH


----------



## turbonerds

Sigh, how are you guys getting good temps? i'm at 1.45 v with LLC on with my q6600 and my temps are terrible idles around 38-42 loads 77-80.... and i reseated TWICE already...


----------



## PapaSmurf

Well, without telling us your ambient room temps it's impossible to tell if those are good temps or not.

All I did with mine was use some Isopropyl Alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) to clean the cpu and heatsink surface, applied Arctic Cooling MX-2 in thin lines down each of the heat piples, them mounted the heatsink securely. Plugged the fan into the motherboard fan header and set the bios to run the fan at full speed and let it rip. Nothing abnormal or extraordinary. Temps using the stock TIM that came with it is within 1C or so of the MX-2. But all of this is in a 70-72F room. If the temp goes up so do the cpu temps, but even with a room temp of 80F I barely reach 74C under heavy load. That's with a Q6600 B3 (the older core) at 3.4GHz and 1.42vcore with LLC on an EP45-UD3R. I am using a pair of the stock BladeMaster fans in Push/Pull, but that only gives about 1-2C better temps than when I only use a single BladeMaster.


----------



## turbonerds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13902747*
> Well, without telling us your ambient room temps it's impossible to tell if those are good temps or not.
> 
> All I did with mine was use some Isopropyl Alcohol (not rubbing alcohol) to clean the cpu and heatsink surface, applied Arctic Cooling MX-2 in thin lines down each of the heat piples, them mounted the heatsink securely. Plugged the fan into the motherboard fan header and set the bios to run the fan at full speed and let it rip. Nothing abnormal or extraordinary. Temps using the stock TIM that came with it is within 1C or so of the MX-2. But all of this is in a 70-72F room. If the temp goes up so do the cpu temps, but even with a room temp of 80F I barely reach 74C under heavy load. That's with a Q6600 B3 (the older core) at 3.4GHz and 1.42vcore with LLC on an EP45-UD3R. I am using a pair of the stock BladeMaster fans in Push/Pull, but that only gives about 1-2C better temps than when I only use a single BladeMaster.


well how do i check my ambient room temps ? all i know is my room is stuffy and always have a fan running 24/7...


----------



## adamxatomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13902747*
> Well, without telling us your ambient room temps it's impossible to tell if those are good temps or not.
> 
> All I did with mine was use some Isopropyl Alcohol (not rubbing alcohol)
> *SNIP*


Is using rubbing alcohol bad or something? I've always used rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover to get rid or old TIM.


----------



## igorxxx1

What fans should i use for P/P confg. I ve heard that the noctua nf-p12 is a good 1, or something other.......????
Should be a good performer and not to loud, and should i change to Arctic Cooling MX-4
or is the cooler master OK.

Thx


----------



## Lettuceman

Hey guys, what temps should I be expecting to see using the 212+ with an i5 2500k?

How high would I be able to overclock do you think? What is the temperature threshold where it is too hot?

Thanks.

Also, do you need to lap the surface?


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *igorxxx1;13909133*
> What fans should i use for P/P confg. I ve heard that the noctua nf-p12 is a good 1, or something other.......????
> Should be a good performer and not to loud, and should i change to Arctic Cooling MX-4
> or is the cooler master OK.
> 
> Thx


The blademaster that comes with the hyper 212+ is pretty good in terms of static pressure. Also, the thermal paste that comes with the heatsink is good too. Changing to MX-4 may yield only a 1C-2C change.


----------



## Wheezo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lettuceman;13909358*
> Hey guys, what temps should I be expecting to see using the 212+ with an i5 2500k?
> 
> How high would I be able to overclock do you think? What is the temperature threshold where it is too hot?
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Also, do you need to lap the surface?


You should see load temps around 60 - 65, no higher on a stock clocked 2500k. Maybe even lower.
Don't know how high you could overclock, maybe to 4 - 5 ghz with a good chip, but maybe someone else could give you a better answer on this one, or maybe some do some research.
Temp threshold for the new Sandybridge is 100 degrees, but don't go over 90 just in case. Intels can handle a lot higher temps than AMD.
Also, don't lap the 212+, you will grind into the heat-pipes and it won't work as well.


----------



## grishkathefool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turbonerds;13904086*
> well how do i check my ambient room temps ? all i know is my room is stuffy and always have a fan running 24/7...


With a thermometer?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *turbonerds*


well how do i check my ambient room temps ? all i know is my room is stuffy and always have a fan running 24/7...


Duh, with a thermometer.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adamxatomic*


Is using rubbing alcohol bad or something? I've always used rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover to get rid or old TIM.










Never, ever, under any circumstances use Rubbing Alcohol to clean a heatsink, cpu, or any other surface you need to transfer heat from/to. Rubbing Alcohol contains Petroleum Byproducts and will leave an oily residue on the surface that will act as an insulator causing temps to be higher than they need to be unless you remove the residue with something like Isopropyl Alcohol, which is what you should be using to clean the heatsink/cpu in the first place.

And yes there is a difference and they are NOT interchangeable. ALL Rubbing Alcohol contains the lubricating agent which is the residue that is left on the surface. Isopropyl Alcohol will NEVER contain any lubricating agent. Also, Rubbing Alcohol isn't available in anything even close to 93%. Any bottle labeled as Rubbing Alcohol that doesn't have the lubricating agent isn't Rubbing Alcohol and should also never be used as whoever bottled it obviously isn't reputable and who knows what is actually in the bottle. Since actual Isopropyl Alcohol sells for the same price, if not lower price than Rubbing Alcohol and is available at all of the same places there is no legitimate reason to use the incorrect product.

To tell for sure that you have the correct product look at the active and inactive ingredients. There should only be one of each, Isopropyl Alcohol for the active ingredient and Purified Water for the inactive ingredient. If there is any other ingredient listed it is the wrong kind and you should avoid it like the plague.

Wikipedia is wrong on this, like it is on way too many other things so don't go by what it says.

Nail Polish Remover is just as bad as it also leaves an oily residue that needs to be removed prior to applying the TIM.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *igorxxx1*


What fans should i use for P/P confg. I ve heard that the noctua nf-p12 is a good 1, or something other.......????
Should be a good performer and not to loud, and should i change to Arctic Cooling MX-4
or is the cooler master OK.

Thx


See the Hyper 212+ Faq (link in my sig) for that information. A P/P setup will only lower temps by about 1-2C. The big advantage of a P/P setup is it allows you to lower the RPM of the fans and still get the same temps as you would with a single noisier fan. A pair of BladeMasters (the stock fan that comes with the 212+) running at 1600 rpm will be within half a degree C of a single Blademaster.

MX-4 is an excellent TIM, but if you don't have it already I recommend trying the stock TIM that comes with the 212+ first. It should give temps within 1C of MX-2 or MX-4.


----------



## B-Roll

I just got a 212+ today and it's on my SB rig on a torture rack.










I have P/P going and idle I'm at 25-27c. Haven't done load yet but will be shortly.

My question is, is that good for open air? It's 72F in here so that's about 22-23c. I guess that is pretty good then.

Anyways, I have 2 Corsair fans I can use til I get some better ones but if I were to install it on the right side of the Torture Rack (see pic) would it be better for me to pushing air in or out? Would it even matter?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Idle temps are fairly inaccurate for the most part and completely meaningless, especially on AMD systems. The only temps that matter at full load temps.

As far as fans go, since there isn't a fan opening in the back of that thing I would mount the 212+ so it blows towards the right with two fans blowing out in those two openings. But you'll probably need to test different configurations to determine what works best for you.


----------



## B-Roll

I'm using it on my SB rig. It's an i7 2600k. I'm gonna have to mess with it a bit.

Update - Prime95 going for 15 minutes now. Sits at about 44-46c. I'd say that's pretty dang awesome!


----------



## Vedyl

Can You Please add me...
Excellent fan cools GREAT for the money...great for overclcoks but better get a better cooler for extreme overclcoks


----------



## grishkathefool

At some point I am going to remove my 212 and put some aluminum tape across the gap that is between the fan and the fins. I'll let you know if it helps.


----------



## xd_1771

I hate to be the one to spread the bad news but Newegg's 212+ price just hit $50.
buy.com still has it for a better $30 shipped.
Places in Canada (NCIX etc.) still have it for lower $20 shipped prices. I'm about to buy another one for a friend.

With the price being so annoyingly high now (honestly, you can get Scythe Mugen 2 for a lower price and that is so much better), I may stop recommending this heatsink altogether and commit myself to the Xigmatek GAIA. 3 heatpipes due to positioning performs better than 4 anyway.


----------



## chinesethunda

can I be added? my temps don't go over 60C with my hyper 212+


----------



## ismet

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xd_1771*


I hate to be the one to spread the bad news but Newegg's 212+ price just hit $50.
buy.com still has it for a better $30 shipped.
Places in Canada (NCIX etc.) still have it for lower $20 shipped prices. I'm about to buy another one for a friend.

With the price being so annoyingly high now (honestly, you can get Scythe Mugen 2 for a lower price and that is so much better), I may stop recommending this heatsink altogether and commit myself to the Xigmatek GAIA. 3 heatpipes due to positioning performs better than 4 anyway.


The demand is so high for these things that CM can probably get away for raising the prices.


----------



## exzited

add me in!


----------



## MuzicFreq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ismet;13942888*
> The demand is so high for these things that CM can probably get away for raising the prices.


till they realize they stopped making profit due to the price rise.
It's a bit of a stupid move on their part.

Why rise the price of something thats selling good and have a potential of slamming into a wall with it not selling and people looking at other companies that have better for less?

At the point you may as well save a little more and buy the D14


----------



## ismet

I might leave the 212+ for a CM V8.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exzited;13947624*
> add me in!


I would recommend you to return and exchange the CM PSU. Read the reviews for it.


----------



## All-a-Mort

Ok, maybe someone here can give me some advice on temps and the cooler...

I picked up a Hyper 212+ for my SB build, but not sure whether it is sufficient for my needs now. At stock with a i5-2500k (so default 3.3ghz) it sees temps of 30c idle but 56c under load in Prime95 or IBT. Whilst admittedly my room is usually around 27-30c, the case has 2 front intake fans, a side intake, and two exhaust fans at the back and top back, so this seems hot to me.

Overclocked to a measly 4.2ghz it was getting up to 65c under load. Again seems pretty hot to me that. It could be the airflow in the Fractal Design R3 case isn't ideal (front fans hit wall of HDD enclosures and I can't use the bottom fan space due to the stupidly short and therefore messy XFX PSU cabling) but do those temps suggest that either the ambient room temp is a problem, or that the heatsink needs reseating? Sadly I was daft enough to use Arctic Silver for the TIM not the stuff supplied with the cooler that I read here was actually better, so maybe it is the weak link?
Edit

Hmmm actually wondering whether the board on auto OC settings (as per the Hardforum guide by an Asus tech) is making the vcore far higher than needed. Wonder if that might up the temps a bit.


----------



## Bolt_Thrower_

I found this:http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=RR-B10-212P-G1-R $15 bucks b4 shipping...Not too bad. I might have to grab one for a spare HS


----------



## ismet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All-a-Mort;13948378*
> Ok, maybe someone here can give me some advice on temps and the cooler...
> 
> I picked up a Hyper 212+ for my SB build, but not sure whether it is sufficient for my needs now. At stock with a i5-2500k (so default 3.3ghz) it sees temps of 30c idle but 56c under load in Prime95 or IBT. Whilst admittedly my room is usually around 27-30c, the case has 2 front intake fans, a side intake, and two exhaust fans at the back and top back, so this seems hot to me.
> 
> Overclocked to a measly 4.2ghz it was getting up to 65c under load. Again seems pretty hot to me that. It could be the airflow in the Fractal Design R3 case isn't ideal (front fans hit wall of HDD enclosures and I can't use the bottom fan space due to the stupidly short and therefore messy XFX PSU cabling) but do those temps suggest that either the ambient room temp is a problem, or that the heatsink needs reseating? Sadly I was daft enough to use Arctic Silver for the TIM not the stuff supplied with the cooler that I read here was actually better, so maybe it is the weak link?
> Edit
> 
> Hmmm actually wondering whether the board on auto OC settings (as per the Hardforum guide by an Asus tech) is making the vcore far higher than needed. Wonder if that might up the temps a bit.


If you can clean things up inside the case, it will improve the airflow of the fans thus increasing their effectiveness of moving the heat out of the case. People all over this board will tell you that auto settings aren't recommended. Search around for a good vcore for the SB i5-2500k.

If the auto settings are giving you a high vcore than you actually need and you lower it, you will get a lower core temp. Also, consider adding another fan to the 212 + to run a push/pull configuration. That will further help with heat dissipation. I'm new to all of this as well, but this is what I understand so far.







Hope I offered you some kind of help.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All-a-Mort;13948378*
> Ok, maybe someone here can give me some advice on temps and the cooler...
> 
> I picked up a Hyper 212+ for my SB build, but not sure whether it is sufficient for my needs now. At stock with a i5-2500k (so default 3.3ghz) it sees temps of 30c idle but 56c under load in Prime95 or IBT. Whilst admittedly my room is usually around 27-30c, the case has 2 front intake fans, a side intake, and two exhaust fans at the back and top back, so this seems hot to me.
> 
> Overclocked to a measly 4.2ghz it was getting up to 65c under load. Again seems pretty hot to me that. It could be the airflow in the Fractal Design R3 case isn't ideal (front fans hit wall of HDD enclosures and I can't use the bottom fan space due to the stupidly short and therefore messy XFX PSU cabling) but do those temps suggest that either the ambient room temp is a problem, or that the heatsink needs reseating? Sadly I was daft enough to use Arctic Silver for the TIM not the stuff supplied with the cooler that I read here was actually better, so maybe it is the weak link?
> Edit
> 
> Hmmm actually wondering whether the board on auto OC settings (as per the Hardforum guide by an Asus tech) is making the vcore far higher than needed. Wonder if that might up the temps a bit.


You aren't going to do much better no matter what you do to the case or the heatsink that will improve temps more than a degree or two from that due to the higher than normal ambient room temps. 30C idle in a 27-30C room is excellent. Please remember that as the ambient room temps increase the hotter air is less efficient at cooling so a 20C rise over ambient at a normal 20-22C (68-72F) room could easily equate to a 30C rise over ambient at 30C (86F) due to the efficiency loss and a case that looks nice, but isn't the most efficient at air cooling. You might want to remove the side panel fan to see if that helps at all. The cpu temps in my Storm Sniper goes up 2C when I have the side panel fan running due to it disrupting the nice front to back airflow pattern it normally has.

As far as I'm concerned unless you can lower the ambient room temps there isn't much you can do without spending a LOT of money for a high end cpu heatsink like a ThermalRight Silver Arrow and a case with better airflow like a CM HAF 932. Even then you would probably only lower load temps by 5C. Bet 65C under load isn't anything to be overly worried about anyway. Thta's well within the acceptable temp range for that cpu.

*EDIT:* You could try remounting it to make sure that the TIM was applied and spread correctly. And what were you temps with the stock heatsink compared to the 212+? The difference under load should be a good 10C or better.

As far as the price going up, I don't think that CM is raising the price, just the resellers who are raising the price based on the popularity. Newegg's computers are coded to do that on items that are selling well. Plus, with CM about to release a new and improved version of the 212+ (no details on the exact changes or release date) it's possible that CM has already stopped production on the current version and resellers are responding by raising prices on the remaining inventory.


----------



## XPD541

Hyper 212+ Club?! Nice.

Mine:









You will find my 4.5ghz validation in the AMD 4ghz Club link in my sig. LOVE this thang.


----------



## All-a-Mort

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ismet;13953722*
> If you can clean things up inside the case, it will improve the airflow of the fans thus increasing their effectiveness of moving the heat out of the case. People all over this board will tell you that auto settings aren't recommended. Search around for a good vcore for the SB i5-2500k.
> 
> If the auto settings are giving you a high vcore than you actually need and you lower it, you will get a lower core temp. Also, consider adding another fan to the 212 + to run a push/pull configuration. That will further help with heat dissipation. I'm new to all of this as well, but this is what I understand so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I offered you some kind of help.


Yeah, airflow is likely not the best. I hate the cabling currently. Strikes me that the cables for my XFX 750w Black Edition PSU are somewhere between too short to have them tidily run through the holes in the case behind the mainboard (seriously they won't reach to come back) and too long to avoid annoying lengths of it hanging around. I'll need to make a serious effort at tidying it up. It's one of the reasons I put the side fan in, because the GPU fan has minimal airflow with the cables sat just below it interrupting the cooler, so I'm trying the side fan to throw air at it. Not a lot of room with the Xonar Essence soundcard and 6950 GPU in that FD case. Doesn't help that the ambient air in the room isn't exactly chilly.

Is there much to be gained using a second fan with the cooler? I've read the difference is rarely more than degree or two and more often is just so that the fans run slower and quieter than with one. Anyway, is there anywhere that would detail which 120mm fans will fit on with the Hyper 212+ heatsink, because I noticed that now it comes with little metal wire clips not the previous larger plastic(?) ones. I couldn't attach the Yate Loon fans to it because the clips require holes in the inner frame of the fan, which the blademaster has but the YL's didn't.

Everything I've read suggests the SB chip should manage 4.5ghz at around 1.3v or so. I did look at doing the whole offset voltage thing first of all as seems to be in vogue at Hardforum which was the guide I was using, but didn't get 4.6 or 4.5 stable (no idea if that was cos the offset needed to be higher or lower). Temps were high though anyway at 74c, and the voltage spiked to 1.4v in Aida64, so not liking that much. I'll likely not get a chance to do try anything else, by the time I get home from work. Though I guess could leave it running Prime95 or Aida64 overnight for a longer test.

@Papasmurf
I think I probably didn't quite apply the TIM correctly. Think I put it on the chip mostly not the heatsink, so perhaps that is costing me. I've since read the TIM application guides where it suggests two lines on the heatsink. I know I didn't apply too much though and did spread it properly.

Not much I can do to reduce the air temp other than open the windows wider (call that British air conditioning) or do a rain dance and hope the weather doesn't turn into an Indian Summer here. Much of the heat is due to the display being a LCD TV, which pumps out a ridiculous amount of heat.


----------



## grishkathefool

Hey Papa,

Is it possible to order an additional fan clip for the 212? (as opposed to zip tie-ing a second fan)


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grishkathefool;13967495*
> Hey Papa,
> 
> Is it possible to order an additional fan clip for the 212? (as opposed to zip tie-ing a second fan)


It comes with an extra, do you not have it anymore?


----------



## grishkathefool

erp... lemme dig around and see if I kept the box >.<

sweet... I did. Thanks for pointing that out, Skyline.

Okay, so, best fan to replace stock fan with? I will order three, two for HS and one to replace my molex blow hole fan.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All-a-Mort;13960807*
> Yeah, airflow is likely not the best. I hate the cabling currently. Strikes me that the cables for my XFX 750w Black Edition PSU are somewhere between too short to have them tidily run through the holes in the case behind the mainboard (seriously they won't reach to come back) and too long to avoid annoying lengths of it hanging around. I'll need to make a serious effort at tidying it up. It's one of the reasons I put the side fan in, because the GPU fan has minimal airflow with the cables sat just below it interrupting the cooler, so I'm trying the side fan to throw air at it. Not a lot of room with the Xonar Essence soundcard and 6950 GPU in that FD case. Doesn't help that the ambient air in the room isn't exactly chilly.


You might want to look into some extensions to allow you to route the cables behind the mobo tray.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All-a-Mort;13960807*
> Is there much to be gained using a second fan with the cooler? I've read the difference is rarely more than degree or two and more often is just so that the fans run slower and quieter than with one. Anyway, is there anywhere that would detail which 120mm fans will fit on with the Hyper 212+ heatsink, because I noticed that now it comes with little metal wire clips not the previous larger plastic(?) ones. I couldn't attach the Yate Loon fans to it because the clips require holes in the inner frame of the fan, which the blademaster has but the YL's didn't.


You have that backwards. The older ones had the metal clips while the newer ones have the plastic clips. You can still use the metal ones on the Yates by modding the Yates. Use a file, saw, rotary tool, etc. to remove the area of the fan that is boxed in so that it is like the stock BladeMaster that the 212+ came with. I've done that on a lot of fans with boxed in corners like some of the Yates. It doesn't weaken the fan at all if you are careful and don't cut too deep.

And yes it's true that you'll more than likely only see 1 or 2C difference, but in some cases that 1 or 2C can be rather important.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All-a-Mort;13960807*
> Everything I've read suggests the SB chip should manage 4.5ghz at around 1.3v or so. I did look at doing the whole offset voltage thing first of all as seems to be in vogue at Hardforum which was the guide I was using, but didn't get 4.6 or 4.5 stable (no idea if that was cos the offset needed to be higher or lower). Temps were high though anyway at 74c, and the voltage spiked to 1.4v in Aida64, so not liking that much. I'll likely not get a chance to do try anything else, by the time I get home from work. Though I guess could leave it running Prime95 or Aida64 overnight for a longer test.
> 
> @Papasmurf
> I think I probably didn't quite apply the TIM correctly. Think I put it on the chip mostly not the heatsink, so perhaps that is costing me. I've since read the TIM application guides where it suggests two lines on the heatsink. I know I didn't apply too much though and did spread it properly.
> 
> Not much I can do to reduce the air temp other than open the windows wider (call that British air conditioning) or do a rain dance and hope the weather doesn't turn into an Indian Summer here. Much of the heat is due to the display being a LCD TV, which pumps out a ridiculous amount of heat.


Instead of putting the TIM on the cpu you should run thin strips of it down each of the heatpipes. That tends to work better. If you put it on the cpu when it spreads too much of it goes into the nearest grooves between the aluminum base and the heatpipes and doesn't fully spread properly. Since this is what is called a Heatpipe Direct Contact one has to apply the TIM differently than one would with a regular flat based heatsink.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grishkathefool;13967593*
> erp... lemme dig around and see if I kept the box >.<
> 
> sweet... I did. Thanks for pointing that out, Skyline.
> 
> Okay, so, best fan to replace stock fan with? I will order three, two for HS and one to replace my molex blow hole fan.


For the heatsink I would just get another one of the BladeMaster's that it came with. That would allow you to retain PWM functionality and still provide good cooling efficiency. Otherwise Hi Speed Yates work very well, but the difference in temps compared to the BladeMaster is about 1C at best, but they don't support PWM so you would loose auto fan control on a lot of motherboards. To get any better cooling you would need to go with something like the 100+ cfm Deltas or San Aces, but that would probably only gain you a degree or so over the BladeMaster's or Hi Speed Yates would be considerably louder, and cost a lot more money. The 212+ has very tightly packed fins, considerably more so than most of the others so Static Pressure is

The BladeMaster's and Hi Speed Yates are a bit overkill for case fans. For a case fan I'm partial to Low or Medium Speed Yate Loons. If one has a fan controller then the HI Speed Yate or BladeMaster would work okay as one could control the noise. While the higher static pressure and higher cfms are necessary to push the air through heatsinks and rads, they don't really do much as case fans since they don't have to force the air through a tight opening. Any fan that pushes an actual 40-60cfm and stays within the noise parameter's of the user is ideal as a case fan. Gelid makes some excellent and quiet case fans as well, but they tend to be more expensive.


----------



## grishkathefool

I was looking at 3 and 4 pin PWM fans. I will compare the Blademasters against other options, then. Thanks.


----------



## sneakyla

Umm. I'm planning on getting this cooler but will it be too big on a asrock extreme 4 mobo? maybe cover up the ram slots?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Which Extreme 4 board? From what I can tell they make several different ones with different chipsets and sockets.


----------



## sneakyla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Which Extreme 4 board? From what I can tell they make several different ones with different chipsets and sockets.


this one

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813157229


----------



## XPD541

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sneakyla*


this one

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813157229


As long as you don't go for really high-profile RAM, you should be OK. My 212 has the 50% thicker fans on it so I had to make sure that my RAM was really low-profile to ensure that the fans would not bump my RAM. Here is a picture of the board:









The fan on the RAM side hangs over BOTH blue slots, so the HyperX is the version that's just got the simple, non-finned heat-spreaders on them. Heck, even the spacing between the fan toward the rear of the case is so tight that I can barely fit my hand between THAT fan and the one mounted on the back panel of the case.









But it all runs cool so I are happeh.


----------



## chinesethunda

what are some general idle temps? I just wanna get a feel for what the average idle/load temps are around here


----------



## XPD541

*Mine:*

*☼* Idle: *34c.*
*☼* Load: *49~52c.*

On the Phenom II x4 965 BE (Currently at 4ghz, 1.4v vcore, 200x20) with room temps at 70f.


----------



## chinesethunda

hmm interesting, mine idles at just below 30C but load goes to 60s and I'm only at 3.84ghz at 1.3v vcore


----------



## All-a-Mort

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13969403*
> You might want to look into some extensions to allow you to route the cables behind the mobo tray.


Yeah I've been looking into that. I'll need to do some exploratory surgery to identify what I need really. I'm certainly not providing photogaphic proof for joining the various clubs until my cabling is less messy..it'd be embarassing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13969403*
> You have that backwards. The older ones had the metal clips while the newer ones have the plastic clips. You can still use the metal ones on the Yates by modding the Yates. Use a file, saw, rotary tool, etc. to remove the area of the fan that is boxed in so that it is like the stock BladeMaster that the 212+ came with. I've done that on a lot of fans with boxed in corners like some of the Yates. It doesn't weaken the fan at all if you are careful and don't cut too deep.


Hmmm, mine must have been old stock, hadn't realised that. I could try modding the fan, but I may just pick up another Blademaster R4...they are decent enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13969403*
> Instead of putting the TIM on the cpu you should run thin strips of it down each of the heatpipes. That tends to work better. If you put it on the cpu when it spreads too much of it goes into the nearest grooves between the aluminum base and the heatpipes and doesn't fully spread properly. Since this is what is called a Heatpipe Direct Contact one has to apply the TIM differently than one would with a regular flat based heatsink.


Yeah, ok, looks like I'll need to re-do the heatsink then. Just not sure what to use to clean off the old TIM. and whether it is necessary or advisable to remove the board when fidding with the heatsink or keep it in place.
Thanks for the advice.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Idle temps are quite often inaccurate and essentially meaningless. The only temps that matter are full load temps. And without knowing the ambient room temps it's impossible to know if a temp is good or not. The higher the ambient room temp the higher the cpu temps will be.

It also depends on the specific model of cpu (i5 Lynnfield doesn't tell us much), what clock speed you are running it, how much vcore it takes to run that speed, and if you have SpeedStep enabled or not. Depending on all of that figure that anything within 20 to 30C above ambient room temp under full load will probably be okay.


----------



## chinesethunda

My temps go well over 20-30C over ambient temps
given the info on the cpuz what would be average temps? would too much TIM also cause higher temps?


----------



## XPD541

I am also running a much hawtter burning AMD chip though...


----------



## chinesethunda

yeah which means my load temps should be lower than yours no?


----------



## chinesethunda

Just took some pics of my cooler, figured I'd post them


----------



## cryoK

Is it really a big difference if i add another fan on the other side? I just installed it now and make my CPU 10c cooler


----------



## XPD541

When I went from the stock fan to using two Ultra Kaze's, the temps went down 12c.

So, yes.


----------



## chinesethunda

yeah it makes a difference, dropped my load temps by good 10C+


----------



## All-a-Mort

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPD541;13978237*
> When I went from the stock fan to using two Ultra Kaze's, the temps went down 12c.
> 
> So, yes.


Hmmm interesting...you mind me asking which rpm (and whether they are noisy as hell).


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPD541;13978237*
> When I went from the stock fan to using two Ultra Kaze's, the temps went down 12c.
> 
> So, yes.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13978609*
> yeah it makes a difference, dropped my load temps by good 10C+


No way that can be true. I don't care how powerful the new fans are it's simply not possible. Maybe 5C at best if they are powerful enough, but no chance of a 10C drop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13974968*
> My temps go well over 20-30C over ambient temps
> given the info on the cpuz what would be average temps? would too much TIM also cause higher temps?


That 20-30C was a generalization of optimal conditions. Depending on the specifics temps over that could be acceptable as well. But without knowing the ambient room temps is difficult to say how high is too high.

And something I failed to mention previously is how you are loading the CPU. Artificial Stress Testers like IBT, Prime95, etc. load the cpu well beyond what any normal app and cause abnormally high temps. When I stated 20-30C under load I meant under a REAL load of a normal program. I've seen IBT spike cpu temps as much as 20C over anything that a normal app would ever push them to. It's one of the reasons I don't waste my time with crap like that. I give a system a couple of hours of StressCPU and then run the [email protected] SMP client for a few days. If it runs that it's real world stable and will be able to handle any real program you throw at it. The temps they push a system to are realistic load temps and actually tell you something useful.


----------



## Solarin

I just got my Hyper 212+ and I am getting ready to build when my CPU/mobo get here. (Pics will follow.)

I haven't figured out a good P/P configuration yet, but I was thinking of getting two Sickleflows. Would it better to just stick with another Blademaster based on cost? It is my understanding that the fans have to match RPMs to take advantage of PWM efficiently. I am going to try to emphasize noise reduction to some extent as well. Therefore, based on what I've read, Yate Loons seem to be a poor fit for what I want.

I was going to pair this with this y-cable.


----------



## chinesethunda

@papasmurf
Okay, thanks for the info, i was just wondering if my temps were a little high or not, my ambient temps are 20~ degrees. Running games it only goes up to around 50 degrees so I guess its decent. But I still put too much TIM on the first time around so once I get my arctic silver 5 on tuesday I will change it and see if any temp changes occur

@solarin
you could stick with another blademaster, I had originally went with 2 yate loons and they worked very well for me. But right now I am rockin 2 blue led sickleflows and they cook my CPU pretty well. As for noise, it is not that loud for me but its all a personal preference


----------



## abu46

i am getting about 2-3C lower temps with the side panel open on by elite430 (mind you its a non-transparent panel with 2x120mm fan slots)

i have 2x120mm fans, 1 intake and 1 exhaust + an 80mm bottom intake and as you can see from the pic i have done the best possible cable mgt. possible with this case

does this mean the side panel is blocking the air flow or something, coz i cannot keep the panel open all the time, any other remedies???


----------



## XPD541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13979529*
> No way that can be true. I don't care how powerful the new fans are it's simply not possible. Maybe 5C at best if they are powerful enough, but no chance of a 10C drop.


I probably should have mentioned that I was not only going from a single, 1300rpm fan to dual 3000rpm fans, but also replaced the thermal paste with MX-2 (from using standard white goop) and also did cable management in my Antec 900 to ensure there was no cables blocking airflow. These things combined DID give me a 12c drop in temperatures.

At the same time as all that mess, I also took the heatsinks off the SB, Chipset, V-Regs and Mofsets and after taking all the useless thermal tape off, also applied MX-2. Afterwards, the sensors for those parts of the board showed significant drops in temps.

Cooling is a pretty involved process - at least for those who want to be thorough about it.


----------



## Solarin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13987077*
> @solarin
> you could stick with another blademaster, I had originally went with 2 yate loons and they worked very well for me. But right now I am rockin 2 blue led sickleflows and they cook my CPU pretty well. As for noise, it is not that loud for me but its all a personal preference


Thanks for the feedback. I was definitely leaning towards the Sickleflows.


----------



## chinesethunda

how do I cool the other parts on the mobo? replace TIM and anything else?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solarin;13986160*
> I just got my Hyper 212+ and I am getting ready to build when my CPU/mobo get here. (Pics will follow.)
> 
> I haven't figured out a good P/P configuration yet, but I was thinking of getting two Sickleflows. Would it better to just stick with another Blademaster based on cost? It is my understanding that the fans have to match RPMs to take advantage of PWM efficiently. I am going to try to emphasize noise reduction to some extent as well. Therefore, based on what I've read, Yate Loons seem to be a poor fit for what I want.
> 
> I was going to pair this with this y-cable.


Sickleflows suck as heatsink fans since they don't have the static pressure that the stock BladeMaster has. They are also louder than the BladeMaster. My advice is just get a second Blademaster if you want optimum cooling.

If you are after good cooling and want to control noise then either 2 Blademasters running at around 1400 to 1600 rpms or 2 Yate Loon Medium Speeds. Either would provide temps withn 1C of the single Blademaster that the 212+ comes with, but be noticeably quieter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13987077*
> @papasmurf
> Okay, thanks for the info, i was just wondering if my temps were a little high or not, my ambient temps are 20~ degrees. Running games it only goes up to around 50 degrees so I guess its decent. But I still put too much TIM on the first time around so once I get my arctic silver 5 on tuesday I will change it and see if any temp changes occur
> 
> @solarin
> you could stick with another blademaster, I had originally went with 2 yate loons and they worked very well for me. But right now I am rockin 2 blue led sickleflows and they cook my CPU pretty well. As for noise, it is not that loud for me but its all a personal preference


Like I said, SickleFlows are designed to be used as case fans, not for heatsinks and rads, especially a heatsink with fins packed as tightly as the 212+
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13989159*
> i am getting about 2-3C lower temps with the side panel open on by elite430 (mind you its a non-transparent panel with 2x120mm fan slots)
> 
> i have 2x120mm fans, 1 intake and 1 exhaust + an 80mm bottom intake and as you can see from the pic i have done the best possible cable mgt. possible with this case
> 
> does this mean the side panel is blocking the air flow or something, coz i cannot keep the panel open all the time, any other remedies???


As for why you get better temps with the side panel off should be addressed in the CASES forum as that would have nothing to do with the 212+. Basically it amounts to poor airflow through the case, not with the 212+ itself.

If you are concerned with temps get that crap fan off of the 212+ and put the BladeMaster back on it. That should lower temps a couple of degrees or more by itself. Second, saying you have 120 mm fans tells us absolutely nothing. Without knowing what fans they are there is no way to know if they move enough air to do much good or not.

And no, you aren't even close to having the best possible cable management in that case. I have used several of the Elite 330 cases which are essentially the same case with the PSU at the top and know full well how much better the cable management can be in one of them if one is willing to do the work. It might not make that much difference in the temps, but it could definitely be improved a significant amount.

I also never had more than 1C difference in temps with the side panel on or off with any of the full sized Elite 3xx or 4xx series of cases, and that includes the ones with a Hyper 212+ installed so there is something about the way you have your case configured that is causing the problem. In fact, I normally get better temps with the side panal on that with them off.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XPD541;13990454*
> I probably should have mentioned that I was not only going from a single, 1300rpm fan to dual 3000rpm fans, but also replaced the thermal paste with MX-2 (from using standard white goop) and also did cable management in my Antec 900 to ensure there was no cables blocking airflow. These things combined DID give me a 12c drop in temperatures.
> 
> At the same time as all that mess, I also took the heatsinks off the SB, Chipset, V-Regs and Mofsets and after taking all the useless thermal tape off, also applied MX-2. Afterwards, the sensors for those parts of the board showed significant drops in temps.
> 
> Cooling is a pretty involved process - at least for those who want to be thorough about it.


So you outright lied and I was completely correct. Going P/P with the Ultra Kazes by themselves did NOT provide anywhere near the difference in temps you claimed. At best that would account for 3 or 4C, not the 12C you claimed. And yes, a lie of omission is still a lie. By not stating the COMPLETE FACTS you mislead the person asking the question. If someone like myself had not stepped in and called you out on it the person asking the question might have wondered why simply switching to a P/P setup on their setup only gave them a 1 or 2C difference in temps. That's why it's not only important, but MANDATORY to give the FULL answer and the CORRECT answer instead of making stuff up or only providing a very small part of the answer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13994569*
> how do I cool the other parts on the mobo? replace TIM and anything else?


Replacing the TIM can help to some extent, but normally not that much. If the heatsinks on the chipsets, vrms, etc. are already getting hot then replacing the TIM probably won't change things enough to worry about. When they are getting hot it shows that the heat is being transferred to the heatsink. If they aren't getting hot then replacing the TIM will probably have a greater affect. Try mounting a small fan or two in the case to blow directly onto the parts you need extra cooling for. That tends to do more good.


----------



## Inverse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13989159*
> i am getting about 2-3C lower temps with the side panel open on by elite430 (mind you its a non-transparent panel with 2x120mm fan slots)
> 
> i have 2x120mm fans, 1 intake and 1 exhaust + an 80mm bottom intake and as you can see from the pic i have done the best possible cable mgt. possible with this case
> 
> does this mean the side panel is blocking the air flow or something, coz i cannot keep the panel open all the time, any other remedies???


How are you doing "the best possible cable management" when you have a motherboard power cable running up over your video card. I dare say is there any cable running in the back of your motherboard plate at all? You have that gigantic vent in the back panel and I don't see anything going through it.


















Try again. :3


----------



## XPD541

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13995084*
> So you outright lied and I was completely correct. Going P/P with the Ultra Kazes by themselves did NOT provide anywhere near the difference in temps you claimed. At best that would account for 3 or 4C, not the 12C you claimed. And yes, a lie of omission is still a lie. By not stating the COMPLETE FACTS you mislead the person asking the question. If someone like myself had not stepped in and called you out on it the person asking the question might have wondered why simply switching to a P/P setup on their setup only gave them a 1 or 2C difference in temps. That's why it's not only important, but MANDATORY to give the FULL answer and the CORRECT answer instead of making stuff up or only providing a very small part of the answer.


The proper procedure for going from a single fan on the Hyper212+ to the Ultra Kaze's consists of steps that the beginner may not consider: like making sure there is sufficient airflow TO said fans, and that there is sufficient airflow out the back of the case. _GRANTED_, I had the cable management and exhaust mostly worked out in advance, but only the first paragraph of my post in this matter was what I was explaining in reference to that. I believe in making sure there is as much information which can contribute to the peak performance with the parts at hand, rather than "Oh, slap some fans on the sukkr and GO!" approaches. If you want to "Call me out" or blast hot air at me on the open forum, I'll leave this thread to you, since I am obviously not helping anyone here.

Good grief, grumpy.


----------



## abu46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13995084*
> As for why you get better temps with the side panel off should be addressed in the CASES forum as that would have nothing to do with the 212+. Basically it amounts to poor airflow through the case, not with the 212+ itself.
> 
> If you are concerned with temps get that crap fan off of the 212+ and put the BladeMaster back on it. That should lower temps a couple of degrees or more by itself. Second, saying you have 120 mm fans tells us absolutely nothing. Without knowing what fans they are there is no way to know if they move enough air to do much good or not.
> 
> And no, you aren't even close to having the best possible cable management in that case. I have used several of the Elite 330 cases which are essentially the same case with the PSU at the top and know full well how much better the cable management can be in one of them if one is willing to do the work. It might not make that much difference in the temps, but it could definitely be improved a significant amount.
> 
> I also never had more than 1C difference in temps with the side panel on or off with any of the full sized Elite 3xx or 4xx series of cases, and that includes the ones with a Hyper 212+ installed so there is something about the way you have your case configured that is causing the problem. In fact, I normally get better temps with the side panal on that with them off.


i will post the query in the cases forum too

my 212+ came with this fan only (Xtra Flo) and you too mentioned previously that the blademasters would t make more than 1C diff. compared to this fan!!
regarding the placements of my 120mm fans i have clearly mentioned that one is intake the other exhaust and 1 one 80mm bottom intake and for exact placements i posted the picture too

regarding cable management what i meant was the best possible mgt. that i could achieve, i will try and revise the mgt.

*@Inverse*

Again i wil reiterate that i have done the best possible cable mgt. that I could achieve and not "THE BEST"


----------



## PapaSmurf

Well, when you make a statement like going to P/P will decrease temps by 12C without mentioning all of the other things you did is definitely not the correct way to go about things. All of the other things you did have absolutely nothing to do with going to a P/P setup. Yes, they are things that should be done to optimize cooling, but making a blanket statement like you did that switching from a single fan to a Push/Pull setup with Ultra Kaze's will give you a 12C drop in CPU temps is nothing but a lie and you know it. Heck, you weren't even responsible enough to specify which Ultra Kaze's you used. Considering that they make more than one model for all anyone knew you could have switched to the slow 1,000 rpm 44cfm models to get a decrease in temps, and anyone with any computer knowledge at all knows that would never happen. It's irresponsible to make blanket statements like that, especially ones that are so misleading.

I'll finish by stating even with all of the other work you did, the chances of it producing a 12C drop in temps is somewhere between slim and none. Advice like that is worse than no advice at all.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;13996119*
> i will post the query in the cases forum too
> 
> my 212+ came with this fan only (Xtra Flo) and you too mentioned previously that the blademasters would t make more than 1C diff. compared to this fan!!
> regarding the placements of my 120mm fans i have clearly mentioned that one is intake the other exhaust and 1 one 80mm bottom intake and for exact placements i posted the picture too
> 
> regarding cable management what i meant was the best possible mgt. that i could achieve, i will try and revise the mgt.
> 
> *@Inverse*
> 
> Again i wil reiterate that i have done the best possible cable mgt. that I could achieve and not "THE BEST"


I didn't question WHERE the fans are, but WHAT FANS THEY ARE. There is a big difference. If one or more of those fans are the stock fans that came with that case they don't move enough air to provide anything even close to optimal cooling.

That is NOT the fan that CoolerMaster ships with a 212+. If that's what came with it either you don't have an actual 212+ or someone along the way substituted it for the BladeMaster that originally came with it.

And that is definitely not the best possible cable management that YOU could achieve unless you are severly physically handicapped, and even then you could easily have done better.


----------



## abu46

Okie then, both of my 120mm fans are the stock fans that came with the case
the front one is non led while the back exhaust is an blue led one

i had mentioned in my earlier posts that i bought my 212+ over ebay and the seller may have replaced the original with this one, but comparing the specs. on both fans theres hardly any difference so thats a non issue

since you seem to have some extra limbs at your disposal why dont you suggest me how can i better my current mgt. as the 430 isnt known for its cable mgt features infact its loathed about this feature


----------



## PapaSmurf

When I replaced the stock fans from the Elite 330's with fans that moved a legitimate 40-70CFM of air it made a significant difference in system temps, especially the rear exhaust fan. The front intake fan isn't quite as crucial as the exhaust fan will be able to draw in air from the open 5.25" bays and other openings and can compensate for an intake fan that isn't as strong. A stronger front fan can't compensate for a weaker exhaust fan though.

I go thru a couple hundred posts per day (often times considerably more than that) and can't keep track of what someone might have stated previously. It's difficult enough keeping track of their latest post that I'm replying to.

The 430 is actually better equipped for cable management right out of the box than the 330's I'm used to working with are, so it shouldn't be that difficult. Route your 4/8 pin CPU/EPS cable thru one of the holes at the bottom of the case and behind the mobo tray, then out thru the cpu retention plate opening and connect it to the mobo. Take all of the Molex and SATA cables and zip or twist tie them on the back side of the 3.5" drive bay to get them out of the way. Only run the very minimum amount needed to plug into the devices. Do the same with the GPU cable. Zip or twist tie any cables you aren't using to the backside of the 3.5" bays or behind the mobo tray. Try to get as much of the 24pin cable back there and out of the way, although that one is a bit more difficult to deal with. Zip ties (or twist ties) are your best friends when it comes to cable management. Don't be afraid to use as many as needed to get things out of the way. Tie the cables to anything you can to keep them out of the way.

Route any cables from the front I/O panel and fans around the backside of the 3.5" bays Mount your fans in such a way as the cables are just long enough to reach the fan header you will be plugging them into. The rest of the cable can rest against the side of the fan housing.

There are probably some other tricks, but it's one of those things that it's easier to just do it than tell someone how to do it. You basically just look for places to tuck the cables behind to hide them as much as possible and clamp them down so they don't move on you. It's actually quite easy to do. All it takes is a some patience and time.

Mount your hard drives in the very bottom drive bays to allow a more unobstructed opening for the intake air.

Take out the metal plates in the front of the 5.25" bays to allow cool air to enter the case thru the front bezel (they are filtered). If possible mount a 120mm fan in the unused 5.25" drive bays blowing into the case to increase the airflow towards the ram and cpu. If a 120 won't fit move the 80mm fan from the bottom of the case to the 5.25" bays. It will do a lot more good there than it will at the bottom of the case, especially with all of the cables obstructing what airflow it produces. Use Zip ties to hold the fan in place (twist ties don't work very well for this like they do for cables.


----------



## chinesethunda

so papasmurf, what would be the best fan to put on the hyper212+? I would replace the sickleflows with the blademasters but is there another fan that could have better static pressure or provide better performance? I already have one blademaster so i could just get another, but if theres others I would be willing to get something better for the heat sink


----------



## Solarin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;13995084*
> Sickleflows suck as heatsink fans since they don't have the static pressure that the stock BladeMaster has. They are also louder than the BladeMaster. My advice is just get a second Blademaster if you want optimum cooling.
> 
> If you are after good cooling and want to control noise then either 2 Blademasters running at around 1400 to 1600 rpms or 2 Yate Loon Medium Speeds. Either would provide temps withn 1C of the single Blademaster that the 212+ comes with, but be noticeably quieter.


Thanks I appreciate the advice. I think I'll grab another Blademaster in that case. So if I am interpreting this right then a P/P configuration doesn't net large gains with temperature but rather the ability to run the heatsink fans as lower RPMS to achieve similar cooling?

With the HAF X case would you recommend mounting it vertically or horizontally?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13997985*
> so papasmurf, what would be the best fan to put on the hyper212+? I would replace the sickleflows with the blademasters but is there another fan that could have better static pressure or provide better performance? I already have one blademaster so i could just get another, but if theres others I would be willing to get something better for the heat sink


It would depend on how much noise you are willing to put up with and how much money you are willing to spend. You could grab a couple of the 130CFM Deltas for about $50 to $60 and maybe lower temps 2 to 3C below what a pair of BladeMasters would give you, but they would be louder than all get out. In the end you can spend more money than what a better heatsink like a MegaHalems, Silver Arrow, NH-D14, etc. would cost you and not get within 8-10C of the temps they could provide. It simply isn't worth it to try to get a 212+ to perform like a much bigger and more efficient heatsink like one of those. The 212+ is the best BUDGET heatsink. It can't come close to what the big boys can do no matter what you do with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Solarin;13998250*
> Thanks I appreciate the advice. I think I'll grab another Blademaster in that case. So if I am interpreting this right then a P/P configuration doesn't net large gains with temperature but rather the ability to run the heatsink fans as lower RPMS to achieve similar cooling?
> 
> With the HAF X case would you recommend mounting it vertically or horizontally?


Correct. Normally only 1 to 2C lower temps in P/P. For the most part blowing front to back works best, but it's worth trying it blowing up if you have good exhaust out the top. The problem with blowing up is that the cpu heatsink is pulling warmer air from the Graphics Card instead of cooler air from the front of the case. That's why front to back normally works better.


----------



## chinesethunda

okay thanks, would you happen to know where I could get a blademaster for cheap? I know where to get a blademaster, but just wondering if there are any cheap places


----------



## abu46

*@PapaSmurf*

thnx for the elaborate tips








will do the mods tomorrow

meanwhile can you post the pics of your cabby

is it normal for air to escape from the gap between the fan and the heatsink coz when i put my hand close to it i can fell the air rushing out from that gap
wouldnt it decrease the efficiency of the coller??


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;13998529*
> okay thanks, would you happen to know where I could get a blademaster for cheap? I know where to get a blademaster, but just wondering if there are any cheap places


Directron seems to have the lowest price at the moment from what I can tell.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;14000069*
> *@PapaSmurf*
> 
> thnx for the elaborate tips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will do the mods tomorrow
> 
> meanwhile can you post the pics of your cabby
> 
> is it normal for air to escape from the gap between the fan and the heatsink coz when i put my hand close to it i can fell the air rushing out from that gap
> wouldnt it decrease the efficiency of the coller??


I don't have any systems in an Elite case at the moment and don't have any pics of any that I did build.

Yest it's normal for the air to come out the sides. I know that some people have used tape to seal up the sides of the heatsink, but I've never seen anyone post any results from doing it so I have no idea if it actually helps or not.


----------



## chinesethunda

okay thanks, i got one

how does ones go about putting fans on the other heat sinks on the mobo?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Depends on the mobo, the case, and the cpu heatsink. I've used clear silicon RTV to attach small 40-60mm fans to heatsinks. I've also made brackets out of pieces of aluminum and acrylic to mount fans above heatsinks, mosfets, and/or vrms. In a pinch I've even resorted to using zip ties and double sided tape to stick a fan where I needed it. It's just a matter of determining where the fan needs to be and figuring out a way to put it there.


----------



## Tunagoblin

Hi. I'm new to this club.
I just built a rig w Hyper 212+ since I had extra 120mm fan.
So I'm running push/pull set up.
I'm happy with what it does so far.
OC my i5 to 4.6GHz with 34-40c idle, 67-73 100% load.


----------



## chinesethunda

are your fans the same type of fans?

thanks papasmurf for the info


----------



## Tunagoblin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14007555*
> are your fans the same type of fans?
> 
> thanks papasmurf for the info


The other fan came from a case that I had.
It runs slower than the CM fan.
1300RPM compared to 2000RPM on CM.
I also have gigantic Panaflo (2750RPM,114CFM) fan but I'm using that to blow air to my GPU.


----------



## ffejrxx

the 212+ with the blademaster alone will be better than using it with a mismatched fan

adding a 2nd blademaster will only help by about 1-2c


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;14007829*
> the 212+ with the blademaster alone will be better than using it with a mismatched fan
> 
> adding a 2nd blademaster will only help by about 1-2c


Agreed, especially when they are that different.


----------



## FireBot

Hopefully this is an acceptable place to ask this (and sorry for the wall of text). I've lurked around here for years soaking in all the information, but I'm still stumped on this problem I'm having with my new 212+ cooler. So I decided to take the plunge and post.

I've read about people getting to 4Ghz clocks using this cooler, with "acceptable" temps (the highest I saw mentioned was around 80C). I've been trying to push for 4Ghz with it, and while I haven't yet gotten stable voltages, when I begin testing it in Prime95 it doesn't take long before the temperatures are pushing into the 90's. That's after only 10 minutes or less of running tests, before I BSOD due to voltages.

I had it running stable at 3.8Ghz before, so I just started out with the voltages there and began working my way up. Currently they're set here:

Vcore: 1.34v
QPI/DRAM: 1.34v
IOH: 1.24v

I decided to try to rectify the temperature problem before I push voltages anymore.

In order to get the temperature lower, I've tried a variety of techniques for putting the thermal compound on, and think I settled on one that worked (though maybe not, if my temps are still this high). I've also sealed up the sides of the heat-sink as I saw mentioned in various other threads. I can't try a shroud at the moment, because I don't have room with my RAM. I also spent the afternoon tidying up my cables even more inside my case. Which couldn't have hurt anything, but I'm not sure how much it helped.

I will also be ordering another Blade Master fan for a push/pull setup in a few days. So it's possible that along with a shroud would make a difference. Though I still feel like I'll need more of the little things to add up to a bigger drop.

The ambient temperature in my room is about 20C (68F, in case my conversion was wrong). Inside my case its about 30C, and from what I can tell, my airflow is laid out well. I just use the stock setup for my NZXT Tempest case.

I guess the TL;DR version is are there any other nuances I'm missing with this cooler that will help my temps get to a more acceptable level? Or am I just asking for too much out of my setup?

Thanks in advance for the help!


----------



## chinesethunda

how are the fans in your case set up? try a diagram in paint because that might be the biggest problem. pictures would be acceptable too. I am not familiar with your motherboard so idk how it handles OCs but your temps should not be that high if your ambient is 20C, because mine is 20C and load temps are around 60C

I have the nzxt phantom so please show how you have your case is set up


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FireBot;14008624*
> Hopefully this is an acceptable place to ask this (and sorry for the wall of text). I've lurked around here for years soaking in all the information, but I'm still stumped on this problem I'm having with my new 212+ cooler. So I decided to take the plunge and post.
> 
> I've read about people getting to 4Ghz clocks using this cooler, with "acceptable" temps (the highest I saw mentioned was around 80C). I've been trying to push for 4Ghz with it, and while I haven't yet gotten stable voltages, when I begin testing it in Prime95 it doesn't take long before the temperatures are pushing into the 90's. That's after only 10 minutes or less of running tests, before I BSOD due to voltages.
> 
> I had it running stable at 3.8Ghz before, so I just started out with the voltages there and began working my way up. Currently they're set here:
> 
> Vcore: 1.34v
> QPI/DRAM: 1.34v
> IOH: 1.24v
> 
> I decided to try to rectify the temperature problem before I push voltages anymore.
> 
> In order to get the temperature lower, I've tried a variety of techniques for putting the thermal compound on, and think I settled on one that worked (though maybe not, if my temps are still this high). I've also sealed up the sides of the heat-sink as I saw mentioned in various other threads. I can't try a shroud at the moment, because I don't have room with my RAM. I also spent the afternoon tidying up my cables even more inside my case. Which couldn't have hurt anything, but I'm not sure how much it helped.
> 
> I will also be ordering another Blade Master fan for a push/pull setup in a few days. So it's possible that along with a shroud would make a difference. Though I still feel like I'll need more of the little things to add up to a bigger drop.
> 
> The ambient temperature in my room is about 20C (68F, in case my conversion was wrong). Inside my case its about 30C, and from what I can tell, my airflow is laid out well. I just use the stock setup for my NZXT Tempest case.
> 
> I guess the TL;DR version is are there any other nuances I'm missing with this cooler that will help my temps get to a more acceptable level? Or am I just asking for too much out of my setup?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help!


this should probably go to the intel cpu subforum
http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/

iirc intel i7 will underclock/undervolt when it hits 90c
if you are using the stock cooler on it it will reach that very quickly
more volt = more heat and more stability


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FireBot;14008624*
> Hopefully this is an acceptable place to ask this (and sorry for the wall of text). I've lurked around here for years soaking in all the information, but I'm still stumped on this problem I'm having with my new 212+ cooler. So I decided to take the plunge and post.


That's with Intel Socket 775, 1155, and 1156 and on dual and quad core AMD cpus. An Intel Socket 1366 cpu and the six core AMD cpus simply overpower a 212+ when you push them that much so the chances of getting low temps and a 4GHz OC are rather slim. A second fan will only get you about 1 to 2C better temps. For what you want to do you really need to spend more money on a higher end cooling solution, and none of the All-In-One water cooling systems like the H50 would be enough to deal with it eather.


----------



## FireBot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14008711*
> how are the fans in your case set up? try a diagram in paint because that might be the biggest problem. pictures would be acceptable too. I am not familiar with your motherboard so idk how it handles OCs but your temps should not be that high if your ambient is 20C, because mine is 20C and load temps are around 60C
> 
> I have the nzxt phantom so please show how you have your case is set up


Here's my fan layout (it's horribly out of scale, but you'll get the idea):
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/27/computerfanlayout.jpg/

The top fan on the front is where my HDD is at, then the bottom fan in the front is completely unobstructed. That was something I switched around today just to try out. Normally both fans were near the bottom, with the HDD in front of the bottom-most one. I will probably just move them back to normal, unless you have another suggestion.

If you want to PM me about any of it, that might work better.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx*
> this should probably go to the intel cpu subforum
> http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/
> 
> iirc intel i7 will underclock/undervolt when it hits 90c
> if you are using the stock cooler on it it will reach that very quickly
> more volt = more heat and more stability


Sorry, my post was a little confusing. I should have left out the voltages maybe. I just knew they contributed to heat, so I thought it might be relevant to reference them. My goal was to get some more info on the cooler.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*
> That's with Intel Socket 775, 1155, and 1156 and on dual and quad core AMD cpus. An Intel Socket 1366 cpu and the six core AMD cpus simply overpower a 212+ when you push them that much so the chances of getting low temps and a 4GHz OC are rather slim. A second fan will only get you about 1 to 2C better temps. For what you want to do you really need to spend more money on a higher end cooling solution, and none of the All-In-One water cooling systems like the H50 would be enough to deal with it eather.


I was afraid of that. I had actually never thought of processor type playing a role, so I'll remember to pay attention to that when I'm reading around. I was able to pick the 212+ up for $10, so I figured I couldn't lose by giving it a shot. I'll look around for some better ones tomorrow, and maybe make a thread with some of my other questions. I don't want to hijack this one anymore than I already have. I appreciate the information.


----------



## nanoprobe

Hey PapaSmurf. I have 6 Hyper 212+ coolers presently running. Does that make me xtreme enough to join the club?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nanoprobe*


Hey PapaSmurf. I have 6 Hyper 212+ coolers presently running. Does that make me xtreme enough to join the club?










It isn't up to me. You'll have to ask the club owner (see the first post for that information) if he ever decides to come around again. As far as I'm concerned anyone who has one can join.


----------



## chinesethunda

6 in 1 pc? =P


----------



## jach11

same thing happened on the Tempest EVO club. one very active member asked a mod to give him control of the thread and now the old owner is gone... You should try to ask a mod!
EDIT:Ultra Kaze 3000 PUSH/PULL FTW!!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jach11*


same thing happened on the Tempest EVO club. one very active member asked a mod to give him control of the thread and now the old owner is gone... You should try to ask a mod!
EDIT:Ultra Kaze 3000 PUSH/PULL FTW!!


That's how we got the current club owner. At least he's been here a few times since taking over, but not since early May.

Anyone want to take up the challenge since he doesn't seem to be up to the task?


----------



## chinesethunda

why don't you? you seem to be pretty active. I am willing to try


----------



## PapaSmurf

I'm already running 4 other clubs, including one that is very active.


----------



## chinesethunda

which club is that? id be willing to try, im pretty active lately, pretty interested in the club


----------



## PapaSmurf

The 4GHz Club. I also run the 2GHz, Yate Loon, and HD4670 CLubs. Luckily the 4670 Club is pretty dead these days. I might be moving next month and might not have a full time internet connection so I don't want to take on anything else until I know for sure what's going to happen. I just don't feel it would be right to commit to something and then have to fail on it right away.


----------



## chinesethunda

who would i talk to if i was interested in taking on the role of being in charge of the thread?


----------



## PapaSmurf

You would need to contact one of the Mods for this area of the forums. Look at the bottom of the page for a list of Mods for this section when you go back to the main Air Cooling Forum. It's up to them if they feel a change is warranted and if they feel you are the right person for the job. They are probably going to be looking at the amount of time you spend on the forums in general, how often you check into the forums, the quality of your posts, among other things. I'll be willing to help out as much as I can to get you going. It's not like you would need to update the thread every day. But at least once or twice a week depending on the amount of posts made would more than likely be sufficient. It will be more work right at the first to get caught up, but it shouldn't be that difficult or time consuming once you do if you stay on top of it. There are a few tricks to help with that I can show you.


----------



## chinesethunda

okay thanks, I will contact one of the mods to see if a change is possible. which mod would you say is best to contact?


----------



## Tunagoblin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;14007877*
> Agreed, especially when they are that different.


OK. I'll take one out and stress test and see the temp change.

Update:
I took the extra fan off and compared the idle temp and prime95 test 3 state (about 1m30s into the balanced torture stress test) between the single blademaster fan and mismatched (2000rpm+1300rpm) fan for some quick cpu temp test.
I did this only a couple times each but in the average,
for the idle temp, mismatched pair of dual fan was better by 1c.
But the max temp in Prime95 test, single blademaster fan was better by 1c.
So I decided to keep it off. Thanks for letting me know!


----------



## chinesethunda

if you want a few more degrees temp drops then get another blademaster, but other than that it just depends on your case setup


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tunagoblin;14019432*
> OK. I'll take one out and stress test and see the temp change.
> 
> Update:
> I took the extra fan off and compared the idle temp and prime95 test 3 state (about 1m30s into the balanced torture stress test) between the single blademaster fan and mismatched (2000rpm+1300rpm) fan for some quick cpu temp test.
> I did this only a couple times each but in the average,
> for the idle temp, mismatched pair of dual fan was better by 1c.
> But the max temp in Prime95 test, single blademaster fan was better by 1c.
> So I decided to keep it off. Thanks for letting me know!


Let Prime run longer and I'll bet the difference is even greater. And remember that idle temps are essentially meaningless. It's the load temps that matter.


----------



## chinesethunda

I got a blademaster and waiting for that to come in this week, after I replace my TIM and let that cure a bit I will post results between my 2x sickleflows, yate loons, and blademasters


----------



## doxbuilder

I will be joining this club in a few days. Ordered one for my overheating Phenom II x4 965. Going to put it in a Cosmos S. Might have to do some modding. Will report back. *Kind of irked about new-egg raising the price to $50 but whatever.*


----------



## chinesethunda

lol for that price you coulda gotten something else that mighta been better, but glad to see you join the club


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doxbuilder;14028813*
> I will be joining this club in a few days. Ordered one for my overheating Phenom II x4 965. Going to put it in a Cosmos S. Might have to do some modding. Will report back. *Kind of irked about new-egg raising the price to $50 but whatever.*


Other places aren't charging that much for them. They are still available for under $30 shipped if one is willing to look around for them. I don't remember Newegg ever having a good price for them except for a couple of very short sales.


----------



## bllarkin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;14029028*
> Other places aren't charging that much for them. They are still available for under $30 shipped if one is willing to look around for them. I don't remember Newegg ever having a good price for them except for a couple of very short sales.


I bought mine at the local Fry's for $23.74 as an open-box.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Anyone paying much more than $30 US (including shipping) is paying too much for it and should look at some of the alternative such as the Xigmatek Dark Knight S1283 or something better in that price range. As much as I like the 212+, it simply isn't worth $50. What made the 212+ such a bargain is that it was a bargain at $29 to $30 shipped, making it one of, if not the best budget cooler. That all goes bye bye when you go above that $30 price point.


----------



## nitric0

Bought it a few days ago.
STOCK Temps:
Idle: 47, Load: 60

212+ Temps:
Idle: 22-23, Load: 33-34

LOVE IT!


----------



## doxbuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;14029120*
> Anyone paying much more than $30 US (including shipping) is paying too much for it and should look at some of the alternative such as the Xigmatek Dark Knight S1283 or something better in that price range. As much as I like the 212+, it simply isn't worth $50. What made the 212+ such a bargain is that it was a bargain at $29 to $30 shipped, making it one of, if not the best budget cooler. That all goes bye bye when you go above that $30 price point.


To late it already shipped. Great now I have buyers remorse. Ohwell...


----------



## nitric0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doxbuilder;14029138*
> To late it already shipped. Great now I have buyers remorse. Ohwell...


It's up on Amazon for $35, where I got mine.


----------



## siroverclock

wow there is a club for just about everything aroud here...


----------



## chinesethunda

O well, its still a good cooler nevertheless. I got it for 25 i think back when newegg wasn't being ****

this is a great club!!


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siroverclock;14029180*
> wow there is a club for just about everything aroud here...


A lot of the clubs here at OCN are basically just a repository of knowledge on a specific piece of hardware. They really aren't meant to be exclusive or anything, just a place for people who use the item to find information about it and ask questions from others who use it. I don't know why they decided to call them clubs (that happened before I got here). On some forums they would be called user guides, faq's, etc. I do like the concept though. Makes it easier than wading through a dozen or more different threads on the same hardware item to find information.


----------



## doxbuilder

Yeah I'm kick of kicking myself for buying it at $50. Whatever. Thanks price fixing bureaucratic economy


----------



## abu46

i sorted out the cables on my 430
heres how it looks

also gained 1C drop in temps, thanks to papa & inverse


----------



## chinesethunda

do you guys know if fans like the ultra kaze is better than the blademaster for the 212+? or what is a better fan to cool it? noise is no issue


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


do you guys know if fans like the ultra kaze is better than the blademaster for the 212+? or what is a better fan to cool it? noise is no issue


It would depend on which Ultra Kazes. They have three different ones that run at different speeds and have different cfm and static pressure. Contrary to what one person here stated, only the highest speed version would surpase the BladeMaster, and then only by about 1 or 2C. The mediumspeed wouldn't cool as well as the BladeMaster and the Low Speed can't handle a heatsink at all. And the Ultra Kaze's are noisier than the BM's.

Basically what it boils down to is this. Even the top San Ace's (9G1212H101 or 9G1212H1011) will only give about a 3C increase in cooling over the BladeMaster, but will be considerably louder. All of the other fans will be within 1C of the BM at best, and most can't even get within 2 or 3C of a BM.


----------



## Vuashke

anyone know where i can get a 2nd BM from in australia? xc


----------



## chinesethunda

okay papasmurf, thanks for the info, then I guess the blademaster is probably the best choice for the 212+ then


----------



## braindrain

Just a quick question regarding the use of two Blademasters on the Hyper 212+. I can't source a 4 pin Y cable anywhere here in South Africa and importing one will end up costing about $22 (for a $3.99 item). Is it safe to wire the two fans together (leaving out the sense wire) to run them both off the 4 pin header? I currently have the 2nd plugged into a regular 3 pin header.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Yes, you can wire them together by splicing the wires yourself, or by making you own Y Splitter. You can also try a 3 pin Y Splitter and run it using the Voltage Setting instead of PWM if your mobo supports it. That's how I run the two Yate Loons on one of mine as they aren't PWM fans and it controls the fan speed quite nicely.


----------



## chinesethunda

My fans are connected to my mobos using a splitter but they always run at max i believe but what papasmurf said, I made a y splitter myself until mine came


----------



## Wile-E-Coyote

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braindrain;14037018*
> Just a quick question regarding the use of two Blademasters on the Hyper 212+. I can't source a 4 pin Y cable anywhere here in South Africa and importing one will end up costing about $22 (for a $3.99 item). Is it safe to wire the two fans together (leaving out the sense wire) to run them both off the 4 pin header? I currently have the 2nd plugged into a regular 3 pin header.


Leave the second fan on the 3 pin. Cut the blue wire ( PWM signal). connect it to the blue wire on the 4 pin. This way both fans will be controlled by the 4 pin
connector. It works just fine for me.


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wile-E-Coyote*


Leave the second fan on the 3 pin. Cut the blue wire ( PWM signal). connect it to the blue wire on the 4 pin. This way both fans will be controlled by the 4 pin
connector. It works just fine for me.


Instead of cutting the blue wire, just unplug it from the connector. Makes it easier to hook it back up it one needs it at a later date.


----------



## chinesethunda

does using sandpaper to sand the 212+ help at all? if so what grain sandpaper would be good? I have some 180 fine sandpaper, not sure if thats a good idea or no


----------



## braindrain

By sanding do you mean lapping? It might help a bit, but then it might also reduce the contact with the CPU due to the bracket applying less pressure. If so you could always use the washer mod trick. When lapping the Hyper 212+ (or any cooler with exposed heatpipes) you just have to be VERY careful not to sand through the pipes. Not sure about the sandpaper though, we use a different rating here.


----------



## abu46

since past 2 days i am facing a rather peculiar problem with my cpu temps.

normally my cpu ideals at 34C and while playing crysis2 it reaches 52C, thats fine by me but when i exit crysis the cpu temps come down to 37C rather quickly but dosent go to 34s even after a very long time!!!

is the problem with the 212 or case air flow??


----------



## chinesethunda

there might be hot air trapped in the case from playing the game, I haven't really noticed that problem


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14043940*
> does using sandpaper to sand the 212+ help at all? if so what grain sandpaper would be good? I have some 180 fine sandpaper, not sure if thats a good idea or no


Probably not worth the effort and there is a distinct chance of sanding through one or more of the heatpipes ruining the heatsink altogether. If you do, use very fine wet/dry sandpaper like 800grit or finer. That 180 would probably do more damage than it would help.

Use a straightedge to see if the surface is completely flat. If it is and there aren't any nicks or burrs leave it alone. Don't worry so much if the aluminum of the base doesn't extend down to the cpu IHS completely as that isn't what transfers the heat. As long as the heatpipes make good contact it's fine. The aluminum is just there to keep the heatpipes in place and allow for something to attach the mounting brackets to.

I would advise NOT using any of the washer tricks to increase pressure. That normally causes the mount to exceed the maximum pressure it exerts on the cpu socket and can do serious damage to it and the area around the motherboard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;14046495*
> since past 2 days i am facing a rather peculiar problem with my cpu temps.
> 
> normally my cpu ideals at 34C and while playing crysis2 it reaches 52C, thats fine by me but when i exit crysis the cpu temps come down to 37C rather quickly but dosent go to 34s even after a very long time!!!
> 
> is the problem with the 212 or case air flow??


Idle temps are essentially meaningless and for the most part fairly inaccurate. The only temps that matter are the load temps. I wouldn't worry about it. If it does bug you, try rebooting the system the next time to see if the sensors reset themselves. You might need to shut the system completely down, then restart it for that to happen.

One of the things I've noticed with the 212+ is that it is a better heatsink under load than it is at idle. I have no idea why that is so, but that has been my findings over the past several months. My old ThermalRight SI-128 with a medium speed Yate Loon (66-70cfm) gives better idle temps than my 212+ with a pair of BladeMasters or High Speed Yate Loons (88cfm each) in P/P by 2 to 4C, but the 212+ gives lower load temps by a good 10C or more.


----------



## jetboy623

Just to let you all know, the hyper 212 plus has been discontinued and CM has a new name for a similar heatsink


----------



## chinesethunda

....which is what? and link?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jetboy623*


Just to let you all know, the hyper 212 plus has been discontinued and CM has a new name for a similar heatsink


I had heard they were going to be doing that, but I hadn't found any definite time frame or info on the new version yet. I'm sure that's the reason that the price of the 212+ went up so dramatically at a lot of places recently.

Where did you find your info and were there any more details?


----------



## Shooter116

Why discontinue such a good product... when you could just lower the price when the new one comes out?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shooter116*


Why discontinue such a good product... when you could just lower the price when the new one comes out?


If they are going to release the new version right away, it performs better than the 212+, and is in the same price range it's better to discontinue the old version first and get it out of the supply line. No sense keeping it around and confusing the issue. It serves no purpose to have the 212+ still around to compete with the new one anyway. The sooner the 212+ is out of the supply chain and the new version is released the better.


----------



## Shooter116

I can understand that, if it is going to be a direct replacement. I was under the impression it was going to be a situation similar to the H50-->H70 where as, the new comes in and takes the top spot, while the old one gets lowered and pushed to the side.


----------



## PapaSmurf

When I first heard the rumors about this a couple of months ago it was for an updated and improved 212+. The plan was always to replace it, not add another heatsink/fan to an existing line. They replaced the original 212 with the 212+ a couple of years ago and it appears that they are doing the same thing this time.


----------



## chinesethunda

what are they replacing it with does anyone know?


----------



## PapaSmurf

I have no idea yet. All I have seen is that they are replacing it. I haven't been able to find anything more specific than that. I wish JetBoy would have provided a link to where he found the information as I haven't run across it yet. I tried the CM Forums and their FB Page and nothing.


----------



## CiX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


what are they replacing it with does anyone know?


Maybe these cooler?

CM Hyper 412S









CM Hyper 612S









http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages...coolers,1.html


----------



## abu46

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf*


Idle temps are essentially meaningless and for the most part fairly inaccurate. The only temps that matter are the load temps. I wouldn't worry about it. If it does bug you, try rebooting the system the next time to see if the sensors reset themselves. You might need to shut the system completely down, then restart it for that to happen.

One of the things I've noticed with the 212+ is that it is a better heatsink under load than it is at idle. I have no idea why that is so, but that has been my findings over the past several months. My old ThermalRight SI-128 with a medium speed Yate Loon (66-70cfm) gives better idle temps than my 212+ with a pair of BladeMasters or High Speed Yate Loons (88cfm each) in P/P by 2 to 4C, but the 212+ gives lower load temps by a good 10C or more.


i am ok with the fact that the idle temps are meaningless but altleast it should return to same temps when the load is normal after i exit the game, shouldnt it???

i did try diff. monitoring sw but all have same temps, primarily i am using coretemp

thats a nice find about the 212+

i am having +ve pressure in my case, can it be due to hot air not escaping as chinesethunda mentioned??


----------



## chinesethunda

there may very well be some spots in your case where the air is trapped, this sometimes happens with bigger cases or when fans are blowing just wrong. Did a quick test with mine and mine drops back down to about 1-2 degrees higher than before i started gaming


----------



## abu46

mine is mid tower elite 430

same with me, temps drop to ~2C higher than before playing the game, guess its normal then..


----------



## PapaSmurf

I get the same thing with all of my systems no matter what heatsink is on them. They never return to the same idle temp. Normally they return to 2 or 3C warmer.


----------



## drufause

PapaSmurf I finnally ran those tests i promissed you on my 212 with the excalibur fans.

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...ibur-fans.html


----------



## chinesethunda

good results, if only i could find my other blademaster, cant seem to remember where on earth i put it


----------



## chinesethunda

How do you guys have 2 blademasters connected? Using a splitter to connect to the motherboard or straight to the power supply? I don't think I have any pwm splitters, but I want to connect my blademasters, any ideas?


----------



## drufause

Some motherboards have more than one PWM CPU connector. Most of us however use a Y cable to run push pull.


----------



## chinesethunda

hmm i thought as much, I might have to get a y cable, or run it straight to the power supply although I'm not sure how using just pwm cables


----------



## chinesethunda

turned my 212+ 90 degrees, what do you guys think?


----------



## abu46

^^

hmmm.. nice

did you notice any diff. in temps. over the vertical installation???


----------



## braindrain

Turning the Hyper 212+ (or any tower cooler) horizontal is not always a good idea as instead of drawing cool air from the front of the case its drawing hot air from the graphics card. That being said, if your CPU runs cooler that way then its all good.


----------



## ffejrxx

mine is vertical, so the gpu runs cooler









cpu is 35-45c gpu gets much hotter, 45c idle


----------



## nanoprobe

Tried to PM RyuTakezaki for membership. His box is full.


----------



## Medvednic

Will the CM Sickleflow 120 fan perform better than the stock Blademaster fan? Or do you suggest another fan?


----------



## Pete34

This cooler seems suprisingly good. I switched my HTPC into a bigger case (a Lian Li 9f) with this cooler and my idle temps were 28 - with load at 49 on my i750. That's pretty awesome compared to before.. Though the fan is a bit noisy when doing prime 95.

I am thinking of getting some GT - but not sure which ones to get.. Maybe use a sunbean controller on them so they are PWM.


----------



## chinesethunda

the blademaster performs better i switched from the sickleflow back to the blademaster and my temps dropped a few degrees. although I cannot tell you what performs better atm, vertical or horizontal as its not OC'd yet. I got a new mobo, but gpu runs a few degrees cooler i think. But I also managed the wires better and swapped a few fans, but overall i think its cooler. although I will have to see when I OC it


----------



## Medvednic

than what 120 mm fan performs better thatmthe blademaster?


----------



## chinesethunda

theres a few fans that do, but the ones that do will be really loud. I don't remember but someone did a test on it and the blademaster is one of the better choices because its not loud and has good static pressure, even the other fans that are better will provide maybe 1-3 degrees better temps and that's just a maybe


----------



## Medvednic

How the Scythe GentleTyphoon 120 1,850 rpm (D1225C12B5AP-15) compared to the blademaster, did some one tried it?


----------



## chinesethunda

not much of a difference iirc


----------



## sebaz

I thought that adding a second BladeMaster to my Hyper 212 Plus was going to make a difference, but today I installed it and apparently it doesn't at all. My case is a Cooler Master ATCS 840 which is very large with plenty of airflow, including two 230mm fans on top. The rest of the system is:

Motherboard: GIGABYTE GA-890FXA-UD5
CPU: AMD Phenom II 1090T x6 @3.8 Ghz
RAM: GSKILL F3-10666CL9Q-16GBRL 16 GB
PSU: CORSAIR CMPSU-850TX 850W
Video card: HIS Radeon 4850 1GB RAM
Hard drives: 2 Western Digital Caviar Black Edition (1 TB and 1.5 TB), 1 WD Caviar 768 GB
Optical drives: LG GBW-H20L Blu-Ray recorder, Pioneer DVR-217D DVD recorder, both SATA
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

I followed the links in the first post of this thread to buy the second BladeMaster and the Y cable to run both at the same time.

Before I installed the new one, I ran Prime95 for ten minutes using the Maximum Heat setting to compare. It was 48C. After that, I cleaned everything again (I had cleaned everything a few days ago including the Hyper 212 heat sink but I cleaned again just in case) and I installed the second Blademaster, which is identical to the one bundled with the Hyper 212+. I made sure that I installed both with the arrow pointing in the same direction, towards the back of the case, where the other case fan is pulling the air out of the case. Before I closed the case, I verified that both were running fine.

Then I ran Prime95, again on the Max. Heat setting for ten minutes, and I was disappointed to see that the temperature was still 48C (both times according to CoreTemp).

So is there anything else I can do? I mean, other than buying a very noisy fan, which I would prefer to avoid. If I change the direction of the two fans, the hot air being pulled from the Hyper 212+ would blow right on top of the 4 RAM modules, so I'm not so sure that would be a great idea. One thing seems certain though, adding the second fan made absolutely no difference. What are your experiences with two fans? Have you achieved a difference in temperature?


----------



## duox

i have a hyper 212+ im pretty lazy , do i have to put up a pic to join lol


----------



## Decepticon

Currently using the Hyper 212+ in my rig. Best CPU air cooler I've used. It seems Cooler Master has wizened up to this in the past little while as prices have been steadily climbing...I see these for upwards of $50 now! Even at the $30 I paid it was up from previous times I'd checked or needed one


----------



## florianv

I recently decided to "re-polish" my system so ive upgraded my p43 to p45 to get my previous 3.8ghz e8400 to 4.5ghz e8400. This is to keep my new 560ti saturated with info so to speak. I have currently got 4ghz at 1.23vcore stable on stock heat-sink and have tried to get 4.5 and i need 1.3vcore to boot (didn't dare to load it up to 100%) and probably a bit more to get it stable so i need something other then stockintel heatsink/fan. Been looking around A LOT and ive come down to 2 decisions, The Hyper 212 for $53 NZ dollars and Deepcool Ice Wind FS which is $54.

Any advice on which one. And if ether of them would fit into my new mobo P5Q-E, not sure if it will clear the NB passive heatsinks. Thanks.


----------



## wompwomp

I was wondering what temps should one expect with this cooler on an i5 2500k at stock settings. At idle as well as load.


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp;14110309*
> I was wondering what temps should one expect with this cooler on an i5 2500k at stock settings. At idle as well as load.


What is your ambient? I idle at anything between 10 and 19 degrees celsius, but we are having quite a cold winter (between 6 and 15 ambient in my PC room), and I hae never seen my load temps in games above 40 degrees. I don't game on a high res (1440x900), FWIW


----------



## chinesethunda

my ambient is 20-25 and i idle from 23-28 and load around 40 at stock


----------



## wompwomp

Jesus, My ambient temp here in southern california is around 28-31ish and my idles are around 35-40ish and load at 48-51ish.

Is that normal? The idle seems a bit high.


----------



## duox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp;14116718*
> Jesus, My ambient temp here in southern california is around 28-31ish and my idles are around 35-40ish and load at 48-51ish.
> 
> Is that normal? The idle seems a bit high.


what processor lol ?


----------



## duox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp;14110309*
> I was wondering what temps should one expect with this cooler on an i5 2500k at stock settings. At idle as well as load.


idle 19-26 , load im at 60-62 with 4.3 ghz tpu overclock , so im guessing mid to high 50s for you.


----------



## Airrick10

Please add!! Got one for my Gigabyte 990fxa Mobo


----------



## Airrick10

Here's a pic


----------



## chinesethunda

load at 50 is decent since your ambients are so high


----------



## chinesethunda

Hey guys, quick question, say I wanted to rotate my cooler 90 degrees, do I have to take out the back plate? I'm not sure if I have it mounted correctly right now and I know that it's not a perfect square, but my 212+ is horizontal instead of vertical, but my backplate is the same orientation as as when it was vertical and everything still fits


----------



## ffejrxx

the back plate doesnt need to be removed to rotate the cooler 90º

the intel patterns are square, put the plate on so it doesnt interfere with other components


----------



## chinesethunda

so they ARE square, it kinda looked rectangular, dunno why i didnt just measure it. I am still debating whether or not I like my cooler facing up atm


----------



## abu46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wompwomp;14116718*
> Jesus, My ambient temp here in southern california is around 28-31ish and my idles are around 35-40ish and load at 48-51ish.
> 
> Is that normal? The idle seems a bit high.


i have about the same ambients as you ~30s
my idle are 36-38 and load 52C

so i dont think you should worry too much
air coolers are highly dependent on ambients
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10;14120471*
> Here's a pic


thats a sexy lukin mobo you got there


----------



## dp28688

joining the club tonight. had been waiting for my mx-4 to get here. pics to follow and some numbers, who all been using non-stock Thermal Compound?


----------



## veirge

i just mounted the 212+ on my still building rig, and is it normal for the cooler to be turned while mounted for about 10 degrees. the brackets are securely fastened but the cooler can turn on top of the proc. Anybody else noticed this?


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veirge;14137126*
> i just mounted the 212+ on my still building rig, and is it normal for the cooler to be turned while mounted for about 10 degrees. the brackets are securely fastened but the cooler can turn on top of the proc. Anybody else noticed this?


How loose is it? If you have good temps then it is probably fine, but if temps look a bit high then it might need to be tightened down some. It seems like mine is pretty tight and I don't think I can rotate it very easily.


----------



## chinesethunda

mine is able to move a bit, maybe not 10 degrees but a little bit tooo, its not too tight


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abu46;14133724*
> i have about the same ambients as you ~30s
> my idle are 36-38 and load 52C
> 
> so i dont think you should worry too much
> air coolers are highly dependent on ambients
> 
> thats a sexy lukin mobo you got there


Thanks! Abu46 It's my new Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 mobo with a CM Hyper 212+ with 2 gelid fans


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *veirge;14137126*
> i just mounted the 212+ on my still building rig, and is it normal for the cooler to be turned while mounted for about 10 degrees. the brackets are securely fastened but the cooler can turn on top of the proc. Anybody else noticed this?


Yes mine rotates a little but not that much...i guess that's the way it is. My temps are 32c idle and 52c after doing an Intel Burn Test at maximum.


----------



## jach11

whats weird is that i had my 212+ on my phenom II and it rotated a bit but it worked just fine. (Load 45C @ 3.5Ghz).When i installed it onto my 2500K system it doesn't even move at all. Is the intel mounting better?


----------



## dp28688

Ok here it is. used mx-4 Room temp was 26c. Idle at 36c, full load was 70c stock hs/fan using prime. 212 load was 52c. So it works pretty good. I did the fill in cracks trick with CC, followed by 3 strips between pipes. Only thing i can think i may have issue with is my finger screw in center just keeps spinning so it might not be too tight but the numbers temp wise seem to be pretty good.


----------



## chinesethunda

the temps look fine, you could drop the temps a few degrees by adding another fan, but other than that its good


----------



## trenzterra

I broke one of the fan clips on my Hyper 212+ after trying to remount a fan.

Is there any way I can get a fan clip out there? Also, I can't seem to find anything I can tie the heatsink too! I've seen some use cable ties but what on earth do you tie it to? Ther'es no holes or anything!!


----------



## PapaSmurf

The center screw will always spin. All it is there for is center the X-Bracket and to hold the spring for it. It doesn't change the pressure on the mount at all.

If you broke one of the fan clips you need to contact CoolerMaster about it. Go to Coolermaster.com, then to your geographic region, then go to the ERMA/Support area and make an RMA request for the replacement part.


----------



## ffejrxx

or zip tie screw til you get a replacement

(not a 212+ but same concept)


----------



## trenzterra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;14147451*
> The center screw will always spin. All it is there for is center the X-Bracket and to hold the spring for it. It doesn't change the pressure on the mount at all.
> 
> If you broke one of the fan clips you need to contact CoolerMaster about it. Go to Coolermaster.com, then to your geographic region, then go to the ERMA/Support area and make an RMA request for the replacement part.


Problem is that my geographic region doesn't have this RMA thing. My local distributor doesn't seem to stock it.

My Hyper 212+ is only days old and I want it to be perfect so no zipties please









No way I can get it on eBay or something?


----------



## Rose321

will the cooler fans won't touch the Corsair DHX ram?
had those
http://www.corsair.com/twin2x2048-6400c5dhx.html

so just want to be clear before bought it.
wish they had enough room.


----------



## cofer

Just reporting in as another satisfied Hyper 212 user.

Replaced my stock AMD cooler today with this one, and my results are as follow:

CPU: Phenom II x4 965 BE @ 3.4

Room temp. ~ 17ºC
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 Plus

*Stock Cooler:*
Idle -- 31ºC
Load (Prime 95, max heat test) -- 59~61ºC

*Hyper 212 Plus:*
Idle -- 19ºC
Load (Prime 95, max heat test) -- 34~35ºC

And there's also the silence. Really great cooler for the price.


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trenzterra;14151814*
> Problem is that my geographic region doesn't have this RMA thing. My local distributor doesn't seem to stock it.
> 
> My Hyper 212+ is only days old and I want it to be perfect so no zipties please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No way I can get it on eBay or something?


you dont need to rma
just fill out the part request form

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/partrequest.php


----------



## chinesethunda

that parts request takes forever >_>
also cofer where do you live to have 19C idle temps and 17C ambients?


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trenzterra;14151814*
> Problem is that my geographic region doesn't have this RMA thing. My local distributor doesn't seem to stock it.
> 
> My Hyper 212+ is only days old and I want it to be perfect so no zipties please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No way I can get it on eBay or something?


I don't know if you can find them on Fleabay or not. You would need to search there to find that out.

Otherwise have your local distributor order them from the CoolerMaster for you.


----------



## Mackem

Forgive me if this has been asked 1000 times, but what is the best position to have the heatsink in and what is the best method to apply TIM?


----------



## chinesethunda

what do you mean by best position? vertical or horizontal? if you mean that then it depends on your case, and best method is variable with the quality of TIM. I used 3 small lines on each of the copper pipes, some would suggest 2, some use the pea method. so it all depends


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mackem*


Forgive me if this has been asked 1000 times, but what is the best position to have the heatsink in and what is the best method to apply TIM?


90+% of the time best position is pointing tward the back case fan

some lian li cases have backward airflow, and it its better pointing forward
some cases with top fans its slightly better pointing upward, but then its drawing air from the gpu area

for applying tim
3 lines method is generally easiest, lise between the heatpipes

i put 3 small dots between the pipes, then use a credit card to cram it in the gaps and smooth it out, then a 1/4 pea-grain of rice sized dot on the cpu
do not lift the heatsink from the cpu when installing it


----------



## vitality

Add me to the club







I just installed my Hyper 212+ on my 2500k. Haven't overclocked yet but will soon. My temps in Prime95 went from about 70c load to 47c









Also was going to do push/pull except I couldn't fit another fan over my ram :/ I'll probably move the ram and try again tomorrow.


----------



## Mackem

Thanks for the help guys. ffejrxx, sorry to sound like an idiot, but is there any pictures or anything you can link to explain about the thermal paste? I've never before went beyond using a stock heatsink on my PCs.

Thanks.


----------



## chinesethunda

you can put it over your ram, just have the fan above the ram, its okay if the fan doesn't completely cover the heat sink, just have the other fan a little lower to compensate


----------



## ffejrxx

guide here

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5


----------



## vitality

Theres a pic


----------



## wwwsam

And heres another pic =] 









2 Xtraflos in push-pull config









after a bit of wiring was able to use the blademasters as PWM case fans


----------



## Medvednic

What TIM does Cooler Master provide with the 212 plus?


----------



## chinesethunda

not really good ones, id say get new TIM


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Medvednic;14175788*
> What TIM does Cooler Master provide with the 212 plus?


the tim it comes with is as good or better than as5
with no cure time


----------



## wwwsam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;14177223*
> the tim it comes with is as good or better than as5
> with no cure time


really now o0
i found AS5 to be slightly better


----------



## Medvednic

is it the thermal fusion 400?


----------



## mikupoiss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14176876*
> not really good ones, id say get new TIM


Many reviews insist that TIM shipped with the cooler is better than most commonly used mixtures, so go figure...


----------



## chinesethunda

well i mean i used it for a long time, i still have some although i misplaced it. Honestly to me it doesn't matter much. But the temps were pretty decent. But now i have IC7 so the temps are lower in comparison


----------



## bobwas4

good temps with the delta.


----------



## PapaSmurf

It ships with Thermal Fusion 400 which is superior to AS5 (or anything else that Arctic Silver sells). It's at least 2 to 4C better than AS5 and within 1C or MX-2, MX-4, Gelid Extreme, IC Diamond 24, or any of the other top TIM. Anyone who get's poor temps with it isn't applying it right.


----------



## PcEvo

Hi Everyone..

I've been using CM Hyper 212+ since i build my X2 5000 unlocked to FX Rig last year.

Recently i manage to get a DynaLoop fan which was taken out from V6GT from a seller at my place.

I'm wondering should i change the current 'BladeMaster' to 'XtraFlo' which is 2200 rpm?









Oh ... i'm going to upgrade to X6









Thanx


----------



## chinesethunda

then i must have not applied it right, hmm i might have to go back and find some then


----------



## eggs2see

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PcEvo*


Hi Everyone..

I've been using CM Hyper 212+ since i build my X2 5000 unlocked to FX Rig last year.

Recently i manage to get a DynaLoop fan which was taken out from V6GT from a seller at my place.

I'm wondering should i change the current 'BladeMaster' to 'XtraFlo' which is have 2200 rpm?









Oh ... i'm going to upgrade to X6









Thanx


I just did this yesterday actually, noticed maybe a 2-3c drop under load and no drop on idle. I guess it's up to you if you think that is worth it or not, but they do look really nice so if you have a window I would say it's worth it.

It should also be quieter although at the moment I have my push fan running off a 3pin connector so no PWM and it's running at 2200rpm so its freaking loud!!


----------



## ffejrxx

id like to add myself 2 more times


----------



## wompwomp

Quick question.

So i've had my 212 for about 2 weeks now and finally decided to run prime95 on my 2500k at stock settings. The temperature dropped about 10-12 degrees celcius vs the stock intel heatsink. Is this normal?


----------



## mikupoiss

It is. That's the point of aftermarket coolers


----------



## DFITilIDie

Wow, didnt' know they had a new version out. How does the + compare with the original? The main difference I see is that on the original, they had two separate towers of fins with the center cut out, with the idea being that since this part was right behind the fan bearings there wouldn't be much air flow here anyway. ON the other hand seems like the + would have more metal for the heat to sink into...

Anyone have any direct comparisons?

In any case, I love my 212 either way. With the P180 it is literally perfect at stock speeds on my chip, because it keeps the CPU only a few degrees above the ambient temp of the room and only 10+ degrees under 100% load. OC'd it's only a few degrees warmer on idle and still 11 degrees under the max temp.


----------



## wompwomp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikupoiss;14198665*
> It is. That's the point of aftermarket coolers


Opps I kind of phrased that wrong. What I meant was should should it have lowered my temps more than that?


----------



## mikupoiss

We should check before and after temps to tell this, but 10C is rather good.


----------



## chinesethunda

10 is pretty good. mine dropped it about that much as well


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Hyper 212+ is a deal again, for any of those who've wanted it cheaper...

Deal Thread


----------



## Tunagoblin

I'm sorry to tell you guys this but I graduated from the 212+...
I'm a big boy now with NH-D14.
Thanks for the good memory 212+....
But I'm still using BM fan, though!


----------



## JAM3S121

anyone have extra fan clips i can buy or have an idea of a way to mount a second fan up there without the fan clips?


----------



## chinesethunda

zip ties? it works man lol check out ehume's guide on zip tie fans


----------



## Airrick10

I just finished my Cooler Master Hyper 212+ carbon fiber vinyl mod...what do you all think?


----------



## metro

Nice job on the CF mod. Kinda makes me want to paint the top fin on mine...


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metro;14209273*
> Nice job on the CF mod. Kinda makes me want to paint the top fin on mine...


Thanks Metro! It took me a long while to finish this up. I eventually had to remove the top fin to do a good job on it.


----------



## abu46

^^
definitely worth your time
looks damn sexy with your black mobo

nice job


----------



## chinesethunda

looks nice good job


----------



## idaWHALE

Hey guys I have a problem. I live near the ocean and our windows are open A LOT and I just noticed the beginnings of oxidation on the copper heat pipes of my 212+. What should I do to stop this? I have seen some people paint theirs and if that is a good solution what type of paint would you recommend? Thanks!



















Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *abu46*


^^
definitely worth your time
looks damn sexy with your black mobo

nice job










Thanks Abu46! Yes I'm pleased with the end result and looks great!!! I had done this before with my Arctic Cooling Freezer Pro 64 heat sink.


----------



## Sagman76

I am now the proud owner of a 212+. Really pleased with the temps coming from an Arctic Rev 2. Running 4.5 at 1.28vcore with .02+ offset. My fractal R3 has the two fans that came with it up front rated at 1350rpm and a 2 Sharkoon 1000rpm at back and back top. Room temp around 18-20c and fans on standard in Bios I get 25c idle 58-59c under Prime. I have a good chip so would like to get to 4.8 or 4.9 to see how it holds up


----------



## chinesethunda

can you put something on the pipes to prevent oxidation? I am not familiar with it. but congrats for getting a 212+ sagman


----------



## _CH_Skyline_

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Airrick10*


I just finished my Cooler Master Hyper 212+ carbon fiber vinyl mod...what do you all think?










I would pay to have this done... interested? Looks amazing!


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14212146*
> looks nice good job


Thanks Chinesethunda!


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_CH_Skyline_;14216009*
> I would pay to have this done... interested? Looks amazing!


Thanks CH Skyline! I guess i wouldn't mind, but it's up to you and if you can remove and send me the top fin. I just couldn't pull it off without removing the top fin. I just placed it back and it's all good but removing it was kinda troublesome.


----------



## Blazing angel

Hey Hey I've got one too


----------



## mikupoiss

Quote:



Originally Posted by *idaWHALE*


Hey guys I have a problem. I live near the ocean and our windows are open A LOT and I just noticed the beginnings of oxidation on the copper heat pipes of my 212+. What should I do to stop this? I have seen some people paint theirs and if that is a good solution what type of paint would you recommend? Thanks!


Well there are certain paints and stuff to protect from corrosion, but I've never actually read myself about anyone using them.
Also - check the whole rig for corrosion. Ocean salt is not good.


----------



## JAM3S121

to everyones advice i used zip ties for my fan.

Its just a noiseblocker XLP. Next time I take my motherboard out or do anything in my case I need to remove my rear exhaust fan and actually screw the top left screw into my motherboard if it will (I have my cpu power mounted through the motherboard cut off). Only reason being since installing the second fan it sags a little.

I notice reasonable temperature differences but I don't think the hyper 212+ is going to cool my cpu enough past 4ghz, as I'm getting about 80c on 100% in linX after 10minutes, it doesn't seem to go higher then 82c though. This is with the bottom mounted intake, a drive bay intake (both fans aren't amazing but still like 50cfm) the pull/push hyper212 pushing into the rear exhaust with the top mounted exhaust.

Maybe I'll do a better tim job as I know last time wasn't the greatest.


----------



## ffejrxx

nice job with the zip tie screws

post your pics here, ehume would be proud
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...tie-screw.html

what fans are you using on it?

the i7 will auto undervolt and underclock at close to 90c
if your hitting high 80's, make sure the cpu multi and core voltage are staying put


----------



## Medvednic

I'm going to reset my 212+ today, what is the best way to apply the TIM (CM Thermal Fusion 400) on my Phenom II X4 965, classic pea size dot in the middle?
I've used the cross method and I don't think that it is the best way.


----------



## crUk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Airrick10*


I guess i wouldn't mind, but it's up to you and if you can remove and send me the top fin. I just couldn't pull it off without removing the top fin. I just placed it back and it's all good but removing it was kinda troublesome.


Or you could just make another copy by tracing the one you already made and send that to him.
Just a thought.


----------



## mikupoiss

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Medvednic*


I'm going to reset my 212+ today, what is the best way to apply the TIM /.../ classic pea size dot in the middle?
I've used the cross method and I don't think that it is the best way.


DHT coolers need it more like 2-3 stripes on the bottom. Not for the pipes but on the blocks.


----------



## Medvednic

So, following this guide I will apply two lines on the gaps or on the heat pipes themselves?


----------



## chinesethunda

also put it on the middle one. I put IC7 on the 4 copper tubes and turned out pretty well i think. couldn't get to the outside well since its so thick but lines is the right choice


----------



## Medvednic

I applied on the 2 central copper pipes and reinstalled the whole thing, for now not much change in idle temps, but about full load temps are 6-7c lower!


----------



## chinesethunda

idle temps don't mean much, so don't worry about it. good job on the temp lowering tho


----------



## Medvednic

If there will be any changes I'll update.


----------



## grishkathefool

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10;14208414*
> I just finished my Cooler Master Hyper 212+ carbon fiber vinyl mod...what do you all think?


Very nice!


----------



## iColeman546

I would like to be added to the club please.


----------



## Wabbit16

What is the minimum speed the Blademaster fan can run? Mine stops at anything under 250~ RPM - then I have to hand-start it again


----------



## idaWHALE

Yeah there is no salt in my case and there is no corrosion even on my copper mosfet heatsinks. I figure if it gets too bad to where it affects preformance then ill just get another one

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## chinesethunda

what settings is yours set to? i dont get how it gets to that low of rpms


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14256089*
> what settings is yours set to? i dont get how it gets to that low of rpms


I'm using an Asus P8P67-M Pro motherboard.

It has 7 or 8 fan profiles to use, but they all rotate the the fan too slowly for it to sustain momentum. Not that it bothers the CPU though, as soon as it get's above 30C it will spin up again.

Was just wondering as I found it very odd. Then again, my PSU might be faulty (12V rail is very low) so that might have an effect


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grishkathefool;14248915*
> Very nice!


Thanks Grishkathefool!


----------



## Heavy MG

@ Airrick10,nice CF vinyl mod.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*


What is the minimum speed the Blademaster fan can run? Mine stops at anything under 250~ RPM - then I have to hand-start it again


I've had mine down to 500rpm,but Cooler Master's minimum spec for the fan in PWM mode is 600RPM.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Medvednic*


I applied on the 2 central copper pipes and reinstalled the whole thing, for now not much change in idle temps, but about full load temps are 6-7c lower!


I applied AS5 to all 4 copper pipes,has anyone tried applying paste to the aluminum blocks?


----------



## Camph

I installed my 212+ on this X4 9850 and it idles at ~42c. Should I take it off and reapply the thermal compound using the other method?


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Camph*


I installed my 212+ on this X4 9850 and it idles at ~42c. Should I take it off and reapply the thermal compound using the other method?


Which method did you use? It seems like the line method along the heatpipes work the best for this cooler.


----------



## Camph

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krnb0iek*


Which method did you use? It seems like the line method along the heatpipes work the best for this cooler.


Just the pea in center. I guess I'll reapply it tomorrow. Taking off paste is such a huge pain in the ass.


----------



## DanManIt

Got mine installed a few weeks ago, definitely like it!


----------



## PcEvo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eggs2see*


I just did this yesterday actually, noticed maybe a 2-3c drop under load and no drop on idle. I guess it's up to you if you think that is worth it or not, but they do look really nice so if you have a window I would say it's worth it.


Hi eggs2see .... manage to install a new CM XtraFlo fan as the previous fan took from V6GT broke down all the sudden. Notice there's a rpm differ compare to the original 'Blademaster' fan and i will further test the temp when i perform an OC.

Oh... my Hyper 212+ does look pretty 'cool' now with the LED and 'red blades' especially when viewing @ side window panel.


----------



## chinesethunda

it is a real pain to remove TIM especially thick TIM like IC7 it just won't come off lol, im so tempted to wash it every time


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Camph;14263513*
> Just the pea in center. I guess I'll reapply it tomorrow. Taking off paste is such a huge pain in the ass.


yes

remove the cooler and use 3 lines or fill in the gaps then use a pea sized dot on the cpu


----------



## 1rkrage

Hi all. I'm getting my new 212+ tomorrow







and would like to know how to use the line method correctly.

from the guide http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5 i noticed there were already TIM in the crevices and then they put the lines on the dividers.










So should I pre-fill the crevices or just apply the TIM in the dividers without doing that?


----------



## krnb0iek

I would fill in the gaps. Not sure how big of a difference it makes, but can't hurt filling in the gaps. If anything, it will make it better.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*


@ Airrick10,nice CF vinyl mod.


Thanks Heavy MG!


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Airrick10*


Thanks Heavy MG!


No problem! 
How did you remove the top metal fin from the cooler?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *1rkrage*


Hi all. I'm getting my new 212+ tomorrow







and would like to know how to use the line method correctly.

from the guide http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=5 i noticed there were already TIM in the crevices and then they put the lines on the dividers.










So should I pre-fill the crevices or just apply the TIM in the dividers without doing that?


Filling in the crevices would help,however I applied it a totally different way.
Wouldn't applying it to the copper pipes instead fill in the crevices ,or would it not spread very well because of the gaps?


----------



## ffejrxx

i fill in the gaps and use a cc to level it out, then put a dot on the cpu to force it to spread evenly


----------



## Synaps3

WHAT A MAGNIFICENT BEAST THIS COOLER IS! ADD ME TO THE CLUB!









Bought it today. Installation was a pain without disassembling my MB but in the end it was worth it.

I was almost certain I screwed up, had trouble installation, squashed the thermal compound, the fan is not centered (dont know why, it simply isnt, installed properly and still..)

So with case open I was idling at the low thirties, a big improvement from the low forties I used to run with stock cooling, but load is where its at right? So I did some blend testing for like 7 minutes, max temps: 47c, vs 79c (stock cooler).

THAT IS AMAZING. IM GETTING MY OLD IDLES AT LOAD. Time to OCCCCC


----------



## Synaps3

Lol @ core number two sitting 4-5c cooler than the others. Which are exactly the same. I understand this is normal right







?


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:



Originally Posted by *krnb0iek*


I would fill in the gaps. Not sure how big of a difference it makes, but can't hurt filling in the gaps. If anything, it will make it better.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*


No problem! 
How did you remove the top metal fin from the cooler?

Filling in the crevices would help,however I applied it a totally different way.
Wouldn't applying it to the copper pipes instead fill in the crevices ,or would it not spread very well because of the gaps?



Quote:



Originally Posted by *ffejrxx*


i fill in the gaps and use a cc to level it out, then put a dot on the cpu to force it to spread evenly


alright I'll try filling the gaps


----------



## Invisible

Anyone know where to get a 212+ for NOT $50. Screw NewEgg and their raising prices schemes.


----------



## Wheezo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synaps3;14285708*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol @ core number two sitting 4-5c cooler than the others. Which are exactly the same. I understand this is normal right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Yup, that's normal for some cores to be different than others. I had similar improvements like you but I switched from a AC Freezer 7 Pro to the 212+
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Invisible;14286052*
> Anyone know where to get a 212+ for NOT $50. Screw NewEgg and their raising prices schemes.


Amazon looks promising:
http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Hyper-Sleeve-RR-B10-212P-G1/dp/B002G1YPH0]Amazon.com: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler, RR-B10-212P-G1: Electronics[/URL]


----------



## PapaSmurf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synaps3;14285708*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol @ core number two sitting 4-5c cooler than the others. Which are exactly the same. I understand this is normal right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Quite normal, especially at idle.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Invisible;14286052*
> Anyone know where to get a 212+ for NOT $50. Screw NewEgg and their raising prices schemes.


Superbiz. $25.99 + $3.99 shipping.

And the best way to apply the tim is to run a thin line down each of the 4 copper pipes and clamp it down. That is where the heat transfers, not the aluminum between the pipes. I consistently get better temps that way than applying it to the aluminum and/or cramming it into the crevices. Your mileage may differ, but that's what I'm finding.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Invisible;14286052*
> Anyone know where to get a 212+ for NOT $50. Screw NewEgg and their raising prices schemes.


I got mine at CompUsa for $30


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavy MG;14285091*
> No problem!
> How did you remove the top metal fin from the cooler?


I placed a ruler between the 2nd to the last fin and the last fin and gently pulled upwards until it came off. Do this evenly on both sides of the copper pipes.


----------



## Smoblikat

Should i mount my 212 vertically or horizontally. Ive had it vertical for a while, but i heard that horizontal will be better.


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PapaSmurf;14287021*
> Quite normal, especially at idle.
> 
> Superbiz. $25.99 + $3.99 shipping.
> 
> And the best way to apply the tim is to run a thin line down each of the 4 copper pipes and clamp it down. That is where the heat transfers, not the aluminum between the pipes. I consistently get better temps that way than applying it to the aluminum and/or cramming it into the crevices. Your mileage may differ, but that's what I'm finding.


hmm gonna try this next then. might be my motherboard but right now it's just on 4.2 ghz and 1.35v and i'm getting 72c using IBT.

how thin do you do your lines?


----------



## Synaps3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage;14306689*
> hmm gonna try this next then. might be my motherboard but right now it's just on 4.2 ghz and 1.35v and i'm getting 72c using IBT.
> 
> how thin do you do your lines?


Try lowering your voltage, it's actually quite high for this clock. Lower it until its unstable, then use the last known stable. Your temps should drop considerably.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smoblikat;14306359*
> Should i mount my 212 vertically or horizontally. Ive had it vertical for a while, but i heard that horizontal will be better.


Depends on the airflow of your case, but vertical, means it is probably sucking hot air from right above your GPU, although if you have a top venting case it might be alright.

But if your air runs from front to back, that would be better, it won't be taking the heat from the GPU, and fresh air from the front instead. (even if you have no fans blowing from the front, and only a rear exhaust, it would still likely have better performance without pulling the dead warm air by your gpu).

Also the cmstore has refurbs for $15+ship which usually comes to around $22-25 at most shipped. I have pretty much only good things from the refurbs by CM, they usually come new or in like new condition, maybe a dented box or something. Nice discount though. Link OOS atm

Although they only come in stock occasionally, usually go pretty fast at that price point


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synaps3;14308552*
> Try lowering your voltage, it's actually quite high for this clock. Lower it until its unstable, then use the last known stable. Your temps should drop considerably.


i used the motherboard's ocgenie for that. was unhappy that my ram was getting overvolted to 1.65 so tried just adjusting the multiplier and just the voltage to see what it will do.

it crashed (0x124) when i set it to 4.5 GHz and stuck voltage on auto. iirc it was giving around 1.3 volts so i upped it a bit.

4.5 GHz @ 1.35 volts.

right now realtemp maxes at 73c and idles at 34-35c.

so far so good. I did a 20 pass intel burn test. and didn't have an error. maybe i'll try lowering the voltage on this clock too. but when i looked at the voltages at the sandybridge stable thread i saw 4.6 ghz at 1.36v with the 212+ so figured it must be the limits of this setup


----------



## chinesethunda

leave it vertical but it all depends on your case and how its set up


----------



## braindrain

I know its been asked, but I'm not sure if its been answered. How does a fan shroud work with the 212+ on push? Something to try tonight, finally got a use for that old buggered fan.


----------



## wompwomp

How much of a difference does adding a pull fan make? I have one extra yate loon low speed fan that i was planning on adding to my HDD cage but I might add it as a pull fan for my 212 instead.


----------



## ffejrxx

it does best with matching p/p fans
adding another blademaster r4 will ony help by 1-3c


----------



## 96shox

Does this cooler fit with top mounted power supplies, on an AMD board with air blowing our the REAR exhaust?


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96shox;14369748*
> Does this cooler fit with top mounted power supplies, on an AMD board with air blowing our the REAR exhaust?


Yes, it should fit no problem.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96shox;14369748*
> Does this cooler fit with top mounted power supplies, on an AMD board with air blowing our the REAR exhaust?


It might depend on the type of case you have...


----------



## DNicolasL

Add me to the club

Sent from my EVO 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## Tori

Will it work if I put the set up like...

I put the fan as an exhaust on the left side of the HS, so air is pulled out of the block and then that air is pulled out by top 200mm fan and rear 120mm exhaust?

Also, if it fits in my HAF 912, is it possible to install without removing the mobo? I have mobo access if I remove the back panel.


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tori*


Will it work if I put the set up like...

I put the fan as an exhaust on the left side of the HS, so air is pulled out of the block and then that air is pulled out by top 200mm fan and rear 120mm exhaust?

Also, if it fits in my HAF 912, is it possible to install without removing the mobo? I have mobo access if I remove the back panel.


If you using a 1 fan setup on the heatsink, it would be better to use it as a push fan rather than pull.


----------



## Tori

Oh all right. The reason I asked is because I put a 120mm fan in the top tray (fits perfectly under my CD/DVD burner drive thingy...) and that's pulling air into the case from there.

Will that make a difference?


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tori*


Oh all right. The reason I asked is because I put a 120mm fan in the top tray (fits perfectly under my CD/DVD burner drive thingy...) and that's pulling air into the case from there.

Will that make a difference?


Yea, having fresh air blown from the drive bay area should help.


----------



## 96shox

Just installed this beast. I think i put too much thermal paste because temps are little high.

Also, I covered the gap between the fan and the top of the heatsink. It not forces a lot more air through the heatsink.


----------



## DNicolasL

Does anybody have this inside an Antec Lanboy Air? I don't know how its gonna fit.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


----------



## ConradTP

Is it normal for the heat pipes to be cool to touch even at load? Even the ones near the processor are no where even being warm..

My ambient is 30ish deg celsius.. On LinX (no avx) my CPU loads 48-50 deg celsius.. I'm thinking of switching to an H100 before attempting to OC my sig-rig. Or I just need a re-seat?


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ConradTP*


Is it normal for the heat pipes to be cool to touch even at load? Even the ones near the processor are no where even being warm..

My ambient is 30ish deg celsius.. On LinX (no avx) my CPU loads 48-50 deg celsius.. I'm thinking of switching to an H100 before attempting to OC my sig-rig. Or I just need a re-seat?


Mine is also very cool to the touch, and I also have an i5 as in your sig. Considering your ambient, those are VERY good temps under load


----------



## IXcrispyXI

yes they do stay coolish you do notice it abit more when ur cpu hits around 60+


----------



## ConradTP

I was beginning to think my cooler is a dud or something.. Compared to my AMD 1055T, that thing heats my room at idle! I'll try to push my clocks later when I come back home. Thanks!


----------



## IXcrispyXI

no probs i noticed at stock temps where meh but once u start oc'ing u see the difference when the fan kicks in also i dropped an extra 5-7c on load with a second fan on it


----------



## YangerD

Hey guys, would this be compatible with the new FM1 motherboards? I'm thinking of getting the Asus F1A75-V PRO motherboard and pairing it up with a pair of G.Skill Ripjaws.


----------



## 96shox

Quote:



Originally Posted by *YangerD*


Hey guys, would this be compatible with the new FM1 motherboards? I'm thinking of getting the Asus F1A75-V PRO motherboard and pairing it up with a pair of G.Skill Ripjaws.


yes, socket am3/am3+ coolers are compatible.
http://www.guru3d.com/article/amd-a8-3850-apu-review/6


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *96shox;14407113*
> Just installed this beast. I think i put too much thermal paste because temps are little high.
> 
> Also, I covered the gap between the fan and the top of the heatsink. It not forces a lot more air through the heatsink.


Did it improve load temps at all? seems like a pretty minimal mod lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ConradTP;14421469*
> Is it normal for the heat pipes to be cool to touch even at load? Even the ones near the processor are no where even being warm..
> 
> My ambient is 30ish deg celsius.. On LinX (no avx) my CPU loads 48-50 deg celsius.. I'm thinking of switching to an H100 before attempting to OC my sig-rig. Or I just need a re-seat?


I would expect the cooler SHOULD be fairly cool to the touch, if the fins themselves were hot, then it wouldn't be working right. Fins should be dissipating the heat right off, the hottest areas would be the pipes themselves and the base.


----------



## eatRAMEN

Edit: Nevermind, found my answer!


----------



## chinesethunda

So if there is anyone who would like to be part of the club just let me know!


----------



## jach11

OHHH! ME!!
I have pics in this thread. Its my Ultimate Hyper 212+ Setup. 
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling...per-212-a.html
EDIT: The shroud allows for more airflow on the cooler itself. Instead of all that dead space in the middle of the fan.


----------



## chinesethunda

i saw that thread, made some comments, will add you right now

Also kinda cleaned up the first post, suggestions are welcome


----------



## abu46

^^
add me too


----------



## chinesethunda

nice rig, added


----------



## samus1677

mine is kinda loose even though i tightened everything to the max. as in it will twist easily side to side. is there any fix for this


----------



## krnb0iek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samus1677;14449686*
> mine is kinda loose even though i tightened everything to the max. as in it will twist easily side to side. is there any fix for this


This happened on my AMD build. On my Intel, it's very secure and I can't twist it at all. It shouldn't be a problem however as long as the heatsink is pretty secure.


----------



## Schwarz

Just got it. Loving it so far.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schwarz;14452857*
> Just got it. Loving it so far.


added you to the club!

Also for those of you who might want one or is recommending it, http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0]Amazon [/URL]has it for 27 dollars free shipping with amazon prime


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


So if there is anyone who would like to be part of the club just let me know!


I don't see my name on the list


----------



## chinesethunda

adding you now, anyone who wanted to join before but was not added just post here or send me a PM


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14469338*
> adding you now, anyone who wanted to join before but was not added just post here or send me a PM


Thanks!


----------



## donkrx

AS5 works great for me, I'm getting great temps compared to others with the same setup (CPU, cooler, voltage and clockspeed settings, under the exact same load with Prime95).

I'll try out the Thermal Fusion 400 stuff but honestly it's gonna be tough to beat these temps.

I was really careful applying it and made sure I used the right amount, aka very little. The biggest impact on temperatures is that people don't even realize they are using WAY too much!

If you think there is ANY doubt in your mind that you used too much TIM, you DID. TIMs have really crappy thermal conductivities compared to metals, especially copper (like 100x worse we're talking), so you want AS LITTLE AS NEEDED.

NOT full sopping coverage of the CPU so it looks like a swimming pool when you remove it.

sry just had to rant... been watching youtube videos for lapping and when I see people take off their heatsink I almost puke.


----------



## thx1138

Best budget cooler I've used so far. Already comes with hardware to mount push/pull and the mounting system, IMO, is awesome. I really like how it allows you to put maximum pressure on the cpu vs using stock amd mounting which doesn't put nearly as much pressure.

I've been using mine with 2 UK3K's and AS5 since January. I had pretty good temps in the colder months but I was waiting until summer to see how this cooler can really hold up. So far I havn't had to step down my overclock at all even during the hottest days. Best bang for buck cooler I know of.


----------



## chinesethunda

lol i think i used too much haha, but my temps aren't bad for what i use i guess. maybe next time?


----------



## Azuredragon1

Just got my 212+ loving it so far drop my load from 52c to 45c =)

also how long does the stock TIM it came in to set?


----------



## ffejrxx

for it to cure, under a week
for full effect, instantly


----------



## donkrx

OK, so I switched out my AS5 paste for the stock CM paste that came with the Hyper 212.

Everything held the same (everything).

4.5ghz, 1.312v:
AS5: 64-65C
CM: 66-67 mostly 67 steady

4.8ghz, 1.41v:
AS5: 78-80
CM: 81-83

All numbers are taken towards the end of a 10 minute Prime Small FFT run. I did run a 2.5hr run with AS5 earlier, Prime Small FFT, and only saw a max temp of 82. Only 15 minutes into the CM run I already see 84.

Final edit: This cant be Thermal Fusion 400. For one, its not in a TF400 syringe, its just in this really generic crappy looking tube. If it was a good product of theirs you'd think they'd put the name on it........

I wasted my time, I dunno why I believed that this would be good paste, I need to think first next time.


----------



## suicideidiot321

Hey can i be in?

im attaching a picture of mine









i love this thing, but im kinda torn

i want a good push/pull fan setup with leds, whats the best choice?

all ive got is the antec tri-cool pulling, i wanna be able to have pwm still

im also preffering to go with red (or similair colors)

any ideas?


----------



## donkrx

I just realized something...... this can't be Thermal Fusion 400 that comes with the 212.

This stuff is terrible.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:



Originally Posted by *suicideidiot321*


Hey can i be in?

im attaching a picture of mine









i love this thing, but im kinda torn

i want a good push/pull fan setup with leds, whats the best choice?

all ive got is the antec tri-cool pulling, i wanna be able to have pwm still

im also preffering to go with red (or similair colors)

any ideas?


added you
I would suggest the sickleflows for LED as that is what I did, but I put the blademasters back on and the temps were better. I might have to try again but iirc the blademasters are best for the cooler. I would say get another blademaster and just light up your case or use the led fans for case fans


----------



## suicideidiot321

yeah, thats what i was thinking i would do most likely. i like the blademaster, but i like my system to be flashy too









anyone ever tried modding the blademasters to add leds to them?

i think it might be possible


----------



## chinesethunda

uhh you could try just getting some leds and line your case? you could try getting the uv markers and stuff and color them and have a UV light. there was a mod around here somewhere about that lol coloring the capacitors and stuff with uv markers or something


----------



## donkrx

Can someone comment who has bought a RECENT Hyper 212+ if the paste that comes with it is indeed Thermal Fusion 400? I'm thinking they changed the paste that comes with it now? It comes in a little red tube that just says Coolermaster.

Better yet, those who say they got Thermal Fusion 400 with their Hyper 212 can you snap a pic (of the tube) with your phone and upload? I want to know if I somehow applied the paste wrong, despite taking way too long and being a perfectionist when I did it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suicideidiot321;14486659*
> yeah, thats what i was thinking i would do most likely. i like the blademaster, but i like my system to be flashy too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone ever tried modding the blademasters to add leds to them?
> 
> i think it might be possible


There are so many fun projects to do with a case







I'm just starting to realize that. I'm sure you could add LEDs. You don't have to wire them directly to the fan though, do you have any unused headers? That would probably work, then again, im a mechanical guy, not electrical









But yeah as chinese suggested UV would probably be better.

The blademasters are excellent fans, I'm loving mine, I got 2 as well. I heard someone say he thought it was crap and too loud and wanted a better fan... lol... I said man they're all loud at 100%... good luck on that quest.


----------



## Schwarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donkrx;14488335*
> Can someone comment who has bought a RECENT Hyper 212+ if the paste that comes with it is indeed Thermal Fusion 400? I'm thinking they changed the paste that comes with it now? It comes in a little red tube that just says Coolermaster.


Just bought mine a week ago. Here's the paste it came with.


----------



## chinesethunda

that's not the thermal fusion 4000 the one i got way back but I don't have it with me. I seem to have misplaced it lol


----------



## donkrx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Schwarz*


Just bought mine a week ago. Here's the paste it came with.


Yep that's what I was referring to, I got the same. Thanks.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


that's not the thermal fusion 4000 the one i got way back but I don't have it with me. I seem to have misplaced it lol


OK thanks, good, that clears things up for me. +rep both of you.

Maybe the OP should be updated to reflect this information (that the 212+ doesn't come with Thermal Fusion anymore)?

I tested the temps today again and got very slightly better results (still worse than AS5 though), however, I'm still pretty much positive that was due to different ambient conditions.

I gotta ask, for those who have used Thermal Fusion, is it high viscosity or low viscosity (aka kinda "runny")?


----------



## JAM3S121

Quote:



Originally Posted by *suicideidiot321*


Hey can i be in?

im attaching a picture of mine









i love this thing, but im kinda torn

i want a good push/pull fan setup with leds, whats the best choice?

all ive got is the antec tri-cool pulling, i wanna be able to have pwm still

im also preffering to go with red (or similair colors)

any ideas?


you need fans with high static pressure


----------



## chinesethunda

I am the OP well now anyways, but I am really pissed because I can't seem to locate my Thermal Fusion 400 for the life of me. It is grey and slightly not runny lol

but from what I can remember, the thermal fusion 400 is on par if not better than AS5

should look like THIS

EDIT
also made changes to the OP, maybe some of you can spot it lol


----------



## suicideidiot321

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*


you need fans with high static pressure


im assuming blademasters have good static pressure

either way, im ordering a pwm splitter


----------



## civilian_pr0ject

hey guys, running prime on my new i7 sig rig at 4.2ghz and 1.056 load volts, 212+ keeping me 60C and under


----------



## chinesethunda

that is some good voltage am jelly lol. but I think you should be able to keep the load even lower if only at 4.2ghz. maybe some better fan management in the case? just my 2 cents


----------



## Tori

hey I am using my friend's mobo with a hyper 212+ on it

are there chances of it just tilting or something?


----------



## blab8811

Add me please!

Pics! (click for higher res)










Will post unboxing video soon!


----------



## blab8811

My unboxing video!


----------



## donkrx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *civilian_pr0ject*


hey guys, running prime on my new i7 sig rig at 4.2ghz and 1.056 load volts, 212+ keeping me 60C and under










1.056?

do we have a bulls**t emoticon?

edit: if youre really not BSing, you should run it at 5.0ghz, what the f


----------



## chinesethunda

I am going to add you. Tori do you have any pics? I will add you too but just want to see what it's like

also if its secured on there it won't "just tilt" mine is attached and I moved it 400+ miles and its still intact lol


----------



## suicideidiot321

geez i wish speedfan wasnt so fussy...actually, i think its the motherboard. Its not showing temps right

oh well, i figured it out anyways

im idling at 30C with my unlocked Phenom X2 560 (quad core) and its overclocked to 3.5

WOOHOO


----------



## chinesethunda

use coretemp or realtemp what are your load temps? idle temps dont really mean much


----------



## suicideidiot321

lemme check, im gonna run some prime95


----------



## donkrx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *suicideidiot321*


geez i wish speedfan wasnt so fussy...actually, i think its the motherboard. Its not showing temps right

oh well, i figured it out anyways

im idling at 30C with my unlocked Phenom X2 560 (quad core) and its overclocked to 3.5

WOOHOO


Please read this about temps: http://www.techpowerup.com/realtemp/docs.php

In fact, EVERYONE should read it.

When it comes to heatsinks and aftermarket cooling, the best thing to do is to push your CPU as hot as you feel comfortable with the old and new heatsinks. The sensors are highly inaccurate at low temps / idle, but become more accurate as the temperature increases. Sometimes they have an offset error too though. Read the link, it explains it all.


----------



## suicideidiot321

the issue i have right now is that with core unlocker i dont see ANY temps, which is a problem

however, i can still see the temps, it shows up as a different device

so far, it gets around 60-65c under load from prime95. However, this is not exactly an accurate reading because i cant get a program to show me the true value. All i get is something else that seems to match what my cpu would be

either way, i think that gives me some overclocking headroom wouldnt you say?


----------



## donkrx

I lapped my Hyper 212+ today, VERY carefully. I'm gonna post up a little guide on how I handled lapping a heatpipe cooler differently than a CPU. Not rocket science, but many are afraid to do it (or do it like a CPU and mess up), so I might be able to put some useful info up.

I am using the i5-2500k and the CPU is not lapped. Yet.

I'll try to get some pics with razor blade test, depends if I can get a decent camera.

=== Results ===

I did a 10 minute Prime small FFT run and I was careful to run these tests under the same ambient conditions. 10 minutes has seemed sufficient to get a steady max temperature in all of my overclocking adventures.

4.8ghz, 1.41v:

*BEFORE (unlapped)*
Arctic Silver 5 (cured): 78-80 (82 max)
Stock 212+ CM paste: 81-83 (85 max)

*AFTER (lapped)*
Arctic Silver 5: N/A
Stock 212+ CM paste: 74-75 (76 max)

Again that's just from lapping the 212+. And yes, my Hyper 212+ looked fine out of box, surface was even & flat - no real reason to expect anything wonderful from lapping the heatsink alone. So I'm excited







.

Fun project anyway though, I enjoyed doing it regardless of the results or hurting my back from leaning over a glass coffee table lol.

Please be careful if you do it (see: http://www.madshrimps.be/vbulletin/f...eatsink-57924/) and feel free to PM me if you have questions.


----------



## donkrx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *suicideidiot321*


the issue i have right now is that with core unlocker i dont see ANY temps, which is a problem


Ah I see, yes...

Quote:



however, i can still see the temps, it shows up as a different device

so far, it gets around 60-65c under load from prime95. However, this is not exactly an accurate reading because* i cant get a program to show me the true value. All i get is something else that seems to match what my cpu would be*

either way, i think that gives me some overclocking headroom wouldnt you say?


What do you mean by that in bold?

And yes, certainly.


----------



## 96shox

Has anyone else noticed how much air is lost from the top of the fan?
I covered mine with electrical tape which definitely helps push the air through the heat sink more, but I never tested temps before and after.


----------



## donkrx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


I am the OP well now anyways, but I am really pissed because I can't seem to locate my Thermal Fusion 400 for the life of me. It is grey and slightly not runny lol

but from what I can remember, the thermal fusion 400 is on par if not better than AS5

should look like THIS

EDIT
also made changes to the OP, maybe some of you can spot it lol


Here we go....... I was watching youtube videos linked to the Hyper 212 (unboxing videos and all) and I caught a video earlier this year where the 212+ came with a tube of paste in a plastic container with the product name and specs. I looked that up on Newegg and I think this it, this is what now comes with the Hyper 212+: HTK-002

All the reviews rate it pretty poorly and describe it as "runny" which is consistent with my experience with it.

Additionally, the Newegg reviews on Thermal Fusion 400 are very positive, and they describe it as more thick/viscous than anything.

*I'm calling Coolermaster tomorrow to confirm this, and will update,* but I'm very confident that its HTK-002.


----------



## Wabbit16

I see you now get the 612 PWM









http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/prod...roduct_id=3049


----------



## donkrx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *96shox*


Has anyone else noticed how much air is lost from the top of the fan?
I covered mine with electrical tape which definitely helps push the air through the heat sink more, but I never tested temps before and after.


Nice, I see you got the tape UNDER the brackets. Otherwise I was about to say that's gonna fling off immediately.

Even if you do this you should snap the fan on as low as possible allowed by your motherboard etc. Air over the CPU (or clos_er_ to the CPU), is good if you can get it.

I dont think you will actually see any benefit from it though. To tell you the truth, the fans just don't really yield much benefit in the end. The reason is just that air sucks at heat transfer for a lot of reasons. It has to be moving very fast to accomplish anything, and our fans just don't really get that fast. Also rerouting air at the top doesn't make a big change in CPU temp because that's mostly air blowing over fins at the top (which are pretty cool in most cases, unless the CPU is ultra hot).

This also made me think, and as a side comment I thought I'd mention:

The Blademaster fans seem to have a natural frequency around 85% speed (~1700 RPM). I think 70% is the optimal speed to run your fans at to provide good cooling but not unnecessary noise that you get at 85%+. The difference in noise is huge while the cooling benefit may be a few degrees C, which you can get from top notch thermal paste.


----------



## jach11

when you unlock cores the temps are disabled and not available or just aren't right.. You could get a heat gun and read the temps on the back of the mobo socket.


----------



## wongwarren

In with mine XD
http://postimage.org/image/1qlq3biv8/


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;14506300*
> In with mine XD
> http://postimage.org/image/1qlq3biv8/


Sorry for the editing, don't know how to upload picture in this forum =.='''


----------



## chinesethunda

just type [ pic] and then your link and [/pic ]
also added you


----------



## zorg1983

Is there anyone who used Nucuta Fans on the Hyper? is there any changes in the temps?


----------



## chinesethunda

not too sure, but if i remember from some tests before there's no fan that really does that much better cept for maybe some deltas or really high rpm fans, the blademasters are really the best or one of the best for the 212+


----------



## jach11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14506830*
> not too sure, but if i remember from some tests before there's no fan that really does that much better cept for maybe some deltas or really high rpm fans, the blademasters are really the best or one of the best for the 212+


i still like my Ultra Kaze 3000's.


----------



## chinesethunda

i know that the blademasters are better than the sickleflows


----------



## donkrx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *donkrx*


I'm calling Coolermaster tomorrow to confirm this, and will update, but I'm very confident that its HTK-002.


So I just noticed the livechat feature was up so I went ahead and did that to get a transcript, here's what they said regarding the thermal paste that comes with the Hyper 212+:

_Question: what is the thermal paste (the actual name of it) that comes with the Hyper 212+?_

Marvin: It is a generic paste similar to what Intel provides

donkrx: Is it a product you sell or make? 
donkrx: The reason for my question is that I understand the Hyper 212+ used to come with your higher quality Thermal Fusion 400 paste 
donkrx: and basically all I want to know 
donkrx: is confirmation that it is no longer Thermal Fusion 400

Marvin: It never came with thermal fusion. 
Marvin: Our V8 came with a sample of it initially yes

donkrx: I see, thank you for your time

=============================

So I guess its neither TF400 nor HTK-002. Not surprising since I would expect them to put the brand name on it if it was something they made, but I wanted to be sure before we go and tell everyone to toss this stuff or keep it as a last resort.

The OP can stay how it is then







.


----------



## wongwarren

I did some experiment few days ago and found out that Blademaster is better than Sickleflow for this heat sink. I did a comparison between Blademaster at full speed and two Sickleflows in push pull. The single Blademaster at full speed beat the push pull by half degree.


----------



## chinesethunda

yup, i remember having 2 sickleflows as well and the blademasters are better, lol so i switched back


----------



## suicideidiot321

Quote:



Originally Posted by *donkrx*


Ah I see, yes...

What do you mean by that in bold?

And yes, certainly.


in speedfan it just shows up as "temp1" however, it gets higher as cpu load gets higher, so i assume its the cpu temp.

but coretemp still shows up as 0c


----------



## chinesethunda

have you tried realtemp?


----------



## mrwalker

Will the CM 212+ work with the Corsair Vengeance memory on a Sabertooth P67? Will I be able to overclock to ~4.5Ghz on an i7-2600K with it?


----------



## suicideidiot321

wont work. My cpu temp is always listed as 0c. its because of the core unlock i believe


----------



## chinesethunda

don't think it will cool it at that high of a clock


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suicideidiot321;14515276*
> in speedfan it just shows up as "temp1" however, it gets higher as cpu load gets higher, so i assume its the cpu temp.
> 
> but coretemp still shows up as 0c


temp1 is the socket temp
your core temps are broken when acc/ncc are enabled
(they will read 0c)

to figure out your temp offset, disable acc/ncc and run prime for about 15 minutes
then compare your cores to temp1

then use temp1 +/- the temp difference to figuire out the core temps


----------



## donkrx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrwalker;14515595*
> Will the CM 212+ work with the Corsair Vengeance memory on a Sabertooth P67? Will I be able to overclock to ~4.5Ghz on an i7-2600K with it?


About the 4.5ghz clock - you should be able to yes, almost definitely. Please refer to the Sandy Stable Club thread for max temps after running Prime for 12+ hours. In fact, the 212+ is a perfect choice because you already have a modest overclock in mind. There's no reason to spend more money. Even before I lapped my 212+, on my i5-2500k I would get like 64-65C at 4.5ghz, with 1.31v on load. That's also avg temp in Prime small FFT.... so in games I wasn't even hitting 60C.

SB chips run a LOT cooler than other CPUs of previous gens.

Also keep in mind that SB chips can handle constant temps under ~75C safely. Intels Tcase for the chip is 72.6C, so that means you have a lot of room (the chip does not throttle until 92-95C in fact). Again, check the sandy stable club thread and see what temps people are running up to. ~80C seems where most people stop. Some of these people have been running their chip 24/7 at these temps/voltages.


----------



## Vuashke

so i just bought another blade master from HK since it isnt sold in australia, and i realise that i only have mounting mechanisms for one fan >.> the extra mounts dont come with the fan itself, do they? if they dont, ill have to go find out where to buy them :C


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuashke;14518359*
> so i just bought another blade master from HK since it isnt sold in australia, and i realise that i only have mounting mechanisms for one fan >.> the extra mounts dont come with the fan itself, do they? if they dont, ill have to go find out where to buy them :C


The mounting mechanisms come with the cooler.


----------



## Vuashke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;14518727*
> The mounting mechanisms come with the cooler.


serious? i dont remember seeing a 2nd pair...i hope i didnt lose them >.>


----------



## mikupoiss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuashke;14518816*
> serious? i dont remember seeing a 2nd pair...i hope i didnt lose them >.>


Serious. I live in Eastern Europe cargo zone for most companies and even my Hyper came with extra clips for it.


----------



## mrwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donkrx;14516518*
> About the 4.5ghz clock - you should be able to yes, almost definitely. Please refer to the Sandy Stable Club thread for max temps after running Prime for 12+ hours. In fact, the 212+ is a perfect choice because you already have a modest overclock in mind. There's no reason to spend more money. Even before I lapped my 212+, on my i5-2500k I would get like 64-65C at 4.5ghz, with 1.31v on load. That's also avg temp in Prime small FFT.... so in games I wasn't even hitting 60C.
> 
> SB chips run a LOT cooler than other CPUs of previous gens.
> 
> Also keep in mind that SB chips can handle constant temps under ~75C safely. Intels Tcase for the chip is 72.6C, so that means you have a lot of room (the chip does not throttle until 92-95C in fact). Again, check the sandy stable club thread and see what temps people are running up to. ~80C seems where most people stop. Some of these people have been running their chip 24/7 at these temps/voltages.


Well, with the stock cooler I'm hitting temps of 85C max under load when running Bad Company 2. Is that normal? I have hyperthreading enabled.

Now the second part of the question, will the CM 212+ work with the Corsair Vengeance memory on an Asus Sabertooth P67? The Vengeance line of memory has the high heatsinks.


----------



## chinesethunda

it should work, even if it doesn't just raise the fan a little above the ram


----------



## BizzareRide

What are the best safe temps for a Hyper 212 and a 2500k @ 4.8Ghz.


----------



## mrhiab

I'm in


----------



## suicideidiot321

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuashke;14518816*
> serious? i dont remember seeing a 2nd pair...i hope i didnt lose them >.>


lol hope they didnt end up in the garbage if you threw away the box


----------



## chinesethunda

should come with 2 set iirc, you can always just call them up and ask them


----------



## suicideidiot321

im thinking really hard about just going dual core....but it just doesnt sound like a good idea lol

but ill check temps on dual core mode anyways

then ill compare and see where i stand

i may need to redo the thermal compound, im positive i put too much


----------



## chinesethunda

yeah that tends to happen sometimes and can worsen your temps


----------



## Vuashke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikupoiss;14519348*
> Serious. I live in Eastern Europe cargo zone for most companies and even my Hyper came with extra clips for it.


goddamnit. know if coolermaster stock the clips separately or something? or any other similar clips i can buy?


----------



## Vuashke

nvm im an idiot, they were setting in a box in my room


----------



## chinesethunda

lol we all have those moments


----------



## chinesethunda

can someone tell me if the copy link for the sig works or not?


----------



## ffejrxx

to select the entire thing easily, triple click on it, then right click -> copy

(double click = word select, triple click = paragraph select)

to test sigs just paste in a quick reply, then use go advanced


----------



## chinesethunda

it works, a member was just asking how to use it, I thought it works, which it does. So.... we're good


----------



## donkrx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BizzareRide*


What are the best safe temps for a Hyper 212 and a 2500k @ 4.8Ghz.


For me... (edit: and just FYI this is BEFORE I lapped any of my hardware)

- Arctic Silver 5, cured properly
- i5-2500k 4.8ghz 1.41v @ load
- Hyper 212+
- Prime small FFT 10 minute test, temps taken in last 30 sec of test

General range: 78-82
Cool room: 77-79 (80 max)
Warmer room: 80-82 (84 max).

The 212+ max overclocking range on the i5-2500k with a Hyper 212+ seems to be right around 4.7-4.8ghz, depending on the voltage YOU need. It depends on your use of the CPU and what temps you feel comfortable with. I think a lot of people on here try to stay under 80C in Prime small FFT testing... that's coming from fairly experienced users too. These chips can run pretty hot, safely. The max temp before shutting down is 98C.

Check the Sandy Stable Club thread on here for information on temps people hit with the overclock they use day to day.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mrwalker*


Well, with the stock cooler I'm hitting temps of 85C max under load when running Bad Company 2. Is that normal? I have hyperthreading enabled.

Now the second part of the question, will the CM 212+ work with the Corsair Vengeance memory on an Asus Sabertooth P67? The Vengeance line of memory has the high heatsinks.


I know when I got my i5-2500k (I know, no HT for it), I was hitting really high temps (75C+) in just a few minutes of Prime. Stock cooler/clockspeed/voltage. That was not even with the Small FFT option either. It did eventually drop when I got AS5, to like 65-67C, but the point is that its not terribly unusual. _That being said_, I think yours are a bit high if that's all stock equipment/settings (I assume it is).

How are you applying your thermal paste? I've seen an 8C differential between applying thermal paste well and applying it poorly. Arctic Silver's method works exceptionally well for me, I do everything they say and get great results comparing to others with same CPU/cooler/settings. With the Hyper 212+ I do it a bit different, and I apply 1mm lines down each pipe and its been working great.

If you're using the stock cooler make sure its locked in tight and the knobs are turned the right way. I had them turned the wrong way, you want to refer to the instructions to be sure you've turned them the right way. I know the arrows on the knobs were counter-intuitive to me (I think turn left = locked).

Other than that, and case airflow, ambients, etc.... keep in mind temperatures can be inaccurate, though they tend to be pretty good at high temps like you're getting. There is slope error and TjMax error. Refer to the RealTemp documentation (just google the 2 words) for a great explanation of the inaccuracies.

As for the 2nd question,

I do remember hearing someone complaining about the 212+ not fitting well with Corsair memory, I think I read that in a Newegg review and unfortunately all the detail he gave was that it was Corsair memory.

Can you measure your hardware? At worst you can raise the fan up so it fits (the sink itself won't interfere with the ram), but you might lose a slight bit of cooling that way.


----------



## iChaitanya

Quote:



Originally Posted by *donkrx*


So I just noticed the livechat feature was up so I went ahead and did that to get a transcript, here's what they said regarding the thermal paste that comes with the Hyper 212+:

_Question: what is the thermal paste (the actual name of it) that comes with the Hyper 212+?_

Marvin: It is a generic paste similar to what Intel provides

donkrx: Is it a product you sell or make? 
donkrx: The reason for my question is that I understand the Hyper 212+ used to come with your higher quality Thermal Fusion 400 paste 
donkrx: and basically all I want to know 
donkrx: is confirmation that it is no longer Thermal Fusion 400

Marvin: It never came with thermal fusion. 
Marvin: Our V8 came with a sample of it initially yes

donkrx: I see, thank you for your time

=============================

So I guess its neither TF400 nor HTK-002.


Umm, I just bought a CM Hyper 212+ and its month of import is Jan 2011. So, what paste is bundled along with my CPU cooler? Is it some generic paste?


----------



## chinesethunda

it should have been the good kind, not sure of the name though. upload a pic? i dont remember what it is


----------



## iChaitanya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14544980*
> it should have been the good kind, not sure of the name though. upload a pic? i dont remember what it is


This one:










Anyway, I think I'll be better off applying some decent TIM rather than the bundled one.

Edit: Even I've confirmed that the paste bundled along with CM Hyper 212+ is *not* ThermalFusion 400.

It's a generic paste!


----------



## chinesethunda

Yeah, I wouldn't use the TIM bundled with it. you could try some arctic silver 5 or mx3 or some shin etsu I heard that stuff is really good


----------



## mikupoiss

There's nothing wrong with boundled TIM. I think it has been said somewhere in this same thread actually. If only I could find it...


----------



## wanako

Here's mine mounted and ready to go.


----------



## sockpirate

Is the stock fan that comes with the 212+ junk or does it do its job well for stock frequencies?

Also does the 212+ do well with low rpm fans?

If so some reccomendations would be lovely, my friend is going to be picking this HS up , i just do not know much about it.


----------



## donkrx

^ that pic should help some people, I forget who was asking about the corsair vengeance memory... we can clearly see that a slot is blocked.

Maybe eventually I'll get a pic..... I'm not gonna get a pic of the surface after lapping because I just don't feel like reseating AGAIN and starting curing over.... but its nothing exciting anyway. Just a shiny surface.

Temps are still dropping







the benefit is huge and im glad I did it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;14561647*
> Is the stock fan that comes with the 212+ junk or does it do its job well for stock frequencies?


It's a really good fan pretty much all things considered. Stock frequency for what chip... on my i5 at stock frequency I could probably run without any cpu fans, period lol.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sockpirate;14561647*
> Is the stock fan that comes with the 212+ junk or does it do its job well for stock frequencies?
> 
> Also does the 212+ do well with low rpm fans?
> 
> If so some reccomendations would be lovely, my friend is going to be picking this HS up , i just do not know much about it.


The stock fan alone is good enough. The only setup I've found so far that beats the stock fan alone is two Noctua NF-P12's in push pull.


----------



## sockpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donkrx;14561682*
> ^ that pic should help some people, I forget who was asking about the corsair vengeance memory... we can clearly see that a slot is blocked.
> 
> Maybe eventually I'll get a pic..... I'm not gonna get a pic of the surface after lapping because I just don't feel like reseating AGAIN and starting curing over.... but its nothing exciting anyway. Just a shiny surface.
> 
> Temps are still dropping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the benefit is huge and im glad I did it.
> 
> It's a really good fan pretty much all things considered. Stock frequency for what chip... on my i5 at stock frequency I could probably run without any cpu fans, period lol.


Its for a 965 PHII, but he will be eventually going with BD or 2500k in the next few months, i know this HS does well with the 2500k all the way up to 4.7ghz even.


----------



## chinesethunda

the stock fan is really good because it has good static pressure and it would be good to have 2 of them in push pull.

the stock TIM now sucks because it is not the TIM it used to come with. and its been tested that the TIM is pretty much crap

Also like I mentioned before, all you have to do is just raise the fan a little so it clears the RAM


----------



## jach11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;14563024*
> The stock fan alone is good enough. The only setup I've found so far that beats the stock fan alone is two Noctua NF-P12's in push pull.


idk i think my Ultra Kaze 3000's in Push/Pull are pretty good


----------



## vitality




----------



## chinesethunda

welcome to the club, added you


----------



## chinesethunda

might take a few new pics lol case is opened again


----------



## mrhiab

Is there that much difference with a push pull config vs a single push set up?
I have been trying to oc this rig but temps keep climbing way to high and i end up shutting prime down around 60 c takes about an hour to get there. I have been told that is pretty much the limit on my cpu. (sig rig)
I have swapped out all the case fans for cm sickle flows fan and that did help a little with temps but not enough.

I have also read that the TIM that cm supply's with these coolers is not a great compound and have been thinking about changing it.

I have an extra cm blade master fan sitting here different model # on it that the stock fan on the cooler but turns at same rpm's would it be beneficial to add it? Also will the header i use for the cpu fan support having 2 fans on it? i would imagine they need to turn at same speed to work the best.


----------



## grishkathefool

a couple degrees C is what I think has been said here before for push/pull versus single.


----------



## justadude

Hey all. Didn't realize there was a club for this cooler







I'll decide if I'm joining once I decide if I'm keeping it. I have the stock fan and a GT AP15 in push pull, both running 100%.

So, I have my MSI P67A GD65 with a 2600K. I'm on stock volts of 1.2v, with a mild x40 (4GHz) o/c. Ambient is 80C in this room, and the case is out in the open for now. When I run P95 small fft, my temps are as high as 80C. There is also quite a range. Core 1 - 70C, Core 2 - 78C, Core 3 - 79C, Core 4 - 72C.

While I don't claim to be an o/c or cooling Guru, I'm comfortable in saying I'm not an idiot. The CPU sits above the socket and bracket, so I wouldn't think contact was an issue. I carefully reapplied AS5, and carefully reinstalled the cooler.

Are the SBs just super hot? Am I somehow doin it wrong? Thanks all!
~jd

Edit: I'm using RealTemp 3.6, TJ Max is set to 98C.


----------



## Xerof3ar

Got mine a couple weeks ago, waiting for a 2nd CM Blade Master to arrive in the mail for a push-pull setup

It keeps my 2500k fairly cool, ~32C idle, no more than 75 C on Prime95.. 4.5GHz @1.36 V


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *justadude*


Hey all. Didn't realize there was a club for this cooler







I'll decide if I'm joining once I decide if I'm keeping it. I have the stock fan and a GT AP15 in push pull, both running 100%.

So, I have my MSI P67A GD65 with a 2600K. I'm on stock volts of 1.2v, with a mild x40 (4GHz) o/c. Ambient is 80C in this room, and the case is out in the open for now. When I run P95 small fft, my temps are as high as 80C. There is also quite a range. Core 1 - 70C, Core 2 - 78C, Core 3 - 79C, Core 4 - 72C.

While I don't claim to be an o/c or cooling Guru, I'm comfortable in saying I'm not an idiot. The CPU sits above the socket and bracket, so I wouldn't think contact was an issue. I carefully reapplied AS5, and carefully reinstalled the cooler.

Are the SBs just super hot? Am I somehow doin it wrong? Thanks all!
~jd

Edit: I'm using RealTemp 3.6, TJ Max is set to 98C.


Are the SBs just super hot? No, in fact, they are the exact opposite, they're just super cool. I believe somehow you're doin it wrong.


----------



## chinesethunda

lol you must be doing it wrong, anyways xerof3ar i added you to the club


----------



## Xerof3ar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *justadude*


Hey all. Didn't realize there was a club for this cooler







I'll decide if I'm joining once I decide if I'm keeping it. I have the stock fan and a GT AP15 in push pull, both running 100%.

So, I have my MSI P67A GD65 with a 2600K. I'm on stock volts of 1.2v, with a mild x40 (4GHz) o/c. Ambient is 80C in this room, and the case is out in the open for now. When I run P95 small fft, my temps are as high as 80C. There is also quite a range. Core 1 - 70C, Core 2 - 78C, Core 3 - 79C, Core 4 - 72C.

--snip--


Do you mean 80 F? My ambient is just a little under that and I'm a bit above stock volts.. I get about the same temps as you.. maybe let the thermal paste settle another day or two? How's your case airflow? I'm not an expert either, so it's just some thoughts


----------



## chinesethunda

mine isn't that low lol but wish I could get that low always lol


----------



## Fooliobass

I just noticed that I am not on the list. Well you can add me now if you would. I just added a second Blade master for a push/pull configuration. It seems like it has dropped my temp by about 2 degrees @ idle and closer to 4-5 if I turn the fans to 100%. I know load is the more important figure but it takes too long to get this core to warm up to its full load temps. Anyway, the P/P config is for when I replace my x3 Heka with either a Deneb or a Thuban.


----------



## justadude

LOL, yea 80F ambient







Everything else is C. How could I possibly have not installed this correctly twice? Anyone think of anything I might possibly be missing? This thing did well on the E8400 and Q9550. When I touch the heatpipes at the base, they're cool, so it's like it's not making contact somehow.


----------



## Wulfgar

Guys, I'd like to OC my 950 @ 4GHz by spending the least amount of money possible.

Do you think the Hyper 212+ will be enough for a stable OC and good temps in prime95 (under 80 degrees) ?

Right now I'm getting huge temps in prime95 (up to 90 degrees) and about 75 while gaming (GTA 4, Company of Heroes). Room temperature is about 28 degrees.

I need a couple of opinions from people who actually use/used this cooler on 4GHz 1366 CPUs in mid-tower cases.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wulfgar*


Guys, I'd like to OC my 950 @ 4GHz by spending the least amount of money possible.

Do you think the Hyper 212+ will be enough for a stable OC and good temps in prime95 (under 80 degrees) ?

Right now I'm getting huge temps in prime95 (up to 90 degrees) and about 75 while gaming (GTA 4, Company of Heroes). Room temperature is about 28 degrees.

I need a couple of opinions from people who actually use/used this cooler on 4GHz 1366 CPUs in mid-tower cases.


It's gonna be hard. 1366 is hot.


----------



## chinesethunda

Fooliobass i have added you

you can try cooling the 950 with a 212+ but its gonna be hard.


----------



## RockThePylon

What's with this heatsink? My temps don't seem to depend on fan speed.

IBT Load temps;

Stock [email protected] - 72°C
Stock [email protected] - 72°C
Stock [email protected] - 71°C

The fuuuuuu?


----------



## chinesethunda

do you have 1 or 2 fans? i mean it might be because of how your case is arranged and other fans as well. not just with that, if it is not pulling enough cool air it will be like that. or if your cooler is already at its best, maybe due to bad thermal paste application etc, then it won't really help much unless you fix the other things


----------



## RockThePylon

Nah, nothing seems to affect it. Recently switched all my case fans from 12volt operation to 7volts. No temperatures changed, really. Even my video card chills at the same temperature.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RockThePylon*


Nah, nothing seems to affect it. Recently switched all my case fans from 12volt operation to 7volts. No temperatures changed, really. Even my video card chills at the same temperature.


All of your components are around that temp at load?

I thought 70C on an Intel chip was pretty good, especially one OC'ed like yours? Might just be the limit of the cooler though, as said.


----------



## chinesethunda

wish i could get to over 4ghz lol but mine stays under 60 load i guess, most of my fans are on minimum.


----------



## jeffcox800

Can I join this group? I've got the Cooler Master 2-12.










http://www.flickr.com/photos/jeffcox800/6051592718/in/photostream


----------



## chinesethunda

added you
nice rig btw


----------



## iamloco724

im going to post this here also i posted in its own thread but might get more answers here

i looked at the d14 and it gets great reviews but might be a little to big for me...i def wouldnt be able to buy the ram i have on my list as of now as i checked the d14 compatiablity list

for the fact that i might not ever overclock i think its probably best to stay with the cheaper option of the 212 plus

3 questions is the 212 plus relatively quiet?

and ive seen conflicting things all over of what method to use on this particular cooler when it comes to applying TIM

and will these conflict with it http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233144


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iamloco724*


im going to post this here also i posted in its own thread but might get more answers here

i looked at the d14 and it gets great reviews but might be a little to big for me...i def wouldnt be able to buy the ram i have on my list as of now as i checked the d14 compatiablity list

for the fact that i might not ever overclock i think its probably best to stay with the cheaper option of the 212 plus

3 questions is the 212 plus relatively quiet?

and ive seen conflicting things all over of what method to use on this particular cooler when it comes to applying TIM

and will these conflict with it http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820233144


Just replied you on the other thread.


----------



## jeffcox800

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


added you
nice rig btw


Thanks


----------



## chinesethunda

Sometime soon I will test some stuff with the 212+ until then... i sit and wait until i can conduct such tests lol. Also nump


----------



## BearStyle

Hi Guys,i have one question is the Hyper 212+ better than Arctic Freezer 64pro?
I will be using it with only one fan like the 64pro and with Arctic ceramique tim?Will i see improvements in my temps?Using with ph2 955 at stock for now.Curently my temps are idle 40 and load 55c.Thank you


----------



## Smoblikat

Do all the fins have the coolermaster stamp in the center like the top one does?


----------



## chinesethunda

I think only the top fin has the stamp and the 212+ is way better than the arctic cooling freezer cuz its a 120mm instead of 92mm and its not a low profile


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BearStyle;14673916*
> Hi Guys,i have one question is the Hyper 212+ better than Arctic Freezer 64pro?
> I will be using it with only one fan like the 64pro and with Arctic ceramique tim?Will i see improvements in my temps?Using with ph2 955 at stock for now.Curently my temps are idle 40 and load 55c.Thank you


Much better.


----------



## BearStyle

Thanks any thoughts for the arctic ceramique?


----------



## chinesethunda

arctic silver 5 is good, some shin etsu if you can get some, not sure if you're talking about a specific kind though


----------



## BearStyle

http://www.arcticsilver.com/ceramique.htm it is that one.Is ther any preapplied tim on the cooler?or tube with it?Thanks


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BearStyle*


http://www.arcticsilver.com/ceramique.htm it is that one.Is ther any preapplied tim on the cooler?or tube with it?Thanks


The Hyper 212 Plus comes with a tube of TIM, not preapplied though.


----------



## BearStyle

Thanks


----------



## chinesethunda

id say get another TIM than the 212+ though


----------



## BearStyle

Ok i've installed the h212+ with the tim that comes with it and the temps are -10c,one verry nice cooler well see with the ceramique,
please add me


----------



## chinesethunda

added you


----------



## IXcrispyXI

would like to be added if possible


----------



## BearStyle

Ooops my mistake


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IXcrispyXI*


would like to be added if possible 










You painted your heat sink?? Looks white.


----------



## IXcrispyXI

yea i did paint it my case isnt finished yet so its not lookin the part yet







(i took the first layer off the heat sink to paint it)


----------



## chinesethunda

looks nice, added you, nice clean cables


----------



## Rebelord

Can add me. Its currently push only. But plan to add a 2nd fan very soon for full push/pull.
Its cooling a 1090T
pics:


----------



## Static|X

Hey guys...I have a 212+ but it doesn't appear to be a direct heatpipe like everyone elses...I bought it at Microcenter last winter when I upgraded to an i5/P67...its just a flat silver base, the heatpipes connect through it but they don't touch the CPU like everyone elses...did I get jipped or is this another model? I can take pics when I get home...


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Static|X;14719823*
> Hey guys...I have a 212+ but it doesn't appear to be a direct heatpipe like everyone elses...I bought it at Microcenter last winter when I upgraded to an i5/P67...its just a flat silver base, the heatpipes connect through it but they don't touch the CPU like everyone elses...did I get jipped or is this another model? I can take pics when I get home...


You sure you bought the 212 "Plus" model? Coz before the "Plus" model came out there was the Cooler Master Hyper 212, not HDT.


----------



## Static|X

It came in a 212+ box - it also came with 2 fans attached...I never thought much of it until recently...


----------



## Static|X

Now that I'm looking at 212 (not plus) reviews...the bottom of my heatsink doesn't look like any of those...its all silver, not copper, on the bottom...It's like I have some kind of mutant 212+...gonna have to take pics when I get home.


----------



## suicideidiot321

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Static|X;14720076*
> Now that I'm looking at 212 (not plus) reviews...the bottom of my heatsink doesn't look like any of those...its all silver, not copper, on the bottom...It's like I have some kind of mutant 212+...gonna have to take pics when I get home.


strange.....

but oh well, who knows what this is....

btw im either gonna be modding some blademaster to have led lights or im gonna get something decently close. I found some phobia pwm fans with LEDS so i may try those out.

im gonna put a picture up of the recent fan light mod i did, turned out really well i think

edit: pics up


----------



## chinesethunda

Rebelord I have added you


----------



## chinesethunda

Just a few current pics of my 212+


----------



## Rebelord

So, I added a second fan to my 212+ for a push pull setup. It has made NO difference in temps at all. =( I dont know, maybe its the case and how air is flowing, not sure.

Case is Antec 300. With 2x120mm fans front for intake, 1x120mm rear exhaust, 140mm top exhaust fan. Not running a side fan atm, so that vent is free and open (however, paper is sucked to it like a inlet)

Thinking of removing the pull fan, because its literally about 1 inch from the rear exaust fan. Plus I have noticed that my top exhaust fan is barely moving any air because the 212+ is quite large. Heh.

Any thoughts?

Ski


----------



## chinesethunda

yeah if its close to the exhaust fan then there isnt much point


----------



## vtecjunkie81

Go ahead and add me. Just picked this up last week


----------



## chinesethunda

added!


----------



## UCLAKoolman

Hi chinesethunda,

Could you add me as well, I posted my rig @ post 2004
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/632591-cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-club-201.html#post13499125


----------



## chinesethunda

added you


----------



## Raven.7

There she be!!


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raven.7;14808738*
> There she be!!
> snip


LOL, all I saw was your picture. I said outloud..oh another Antec 300. Sweet. Heh. Then saw your sig.

Ski

I have 3 of them in the house.


----------



## modd1uk

You can add me in this, il get a picture when ive finished tidying the wiring as such, its only for my server so wont be too tidy.

@ Idle its keeping my servers AMD 550BE cool at an amazing 22degrees ! 24hour prime 95 didnt see it exceed 32 degrees, really amazed given the low cost of this cooler, have used plenty in customers builds and will continue to use them.

Last PC the 212+ was out of stock so bought the corsair A50, not as impressed, simple fact no PWM fan.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *modd1uk;14836052*
> @ Idle its keeping my servers AMD 550BE cool at an amazing 22degrees ! 24hour prime 95 didnt see it exceed 32 degrees, really amazed given the low cost of this cooler, have used plenty in customers builds and will continue to use them..


I agree. Excellent for the price. However, my 1090T at just over 4Ghz was pushing 55*+ on load, even in P/P setup. So, it DOES have some limits.







But other wise at stock or slight OC, works GREAT!


----------



## modd1uk

Yeah i can imagine on a heat intensive CPU thats OC'd it might fail a little, if somebody wanted a cooler to cool a stock frequency CPU, example one of my customers just bought a 955 based system it does the job very well, keeps stuff nice and cool and is quiet whilst doing so !


----------



## chinesethunda

modd1uk I added you.


----------



## Genome852

Installed my 212+ yesterday (upgraded from a AC Freezer 7 Pro R2). Load temps dropped 10-15 degrees, and this is without a second fan & using the thermal paste that came with it. Really happy with this purchase.


----------



## Sagman76

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Genome852*


Installed my 212+ yesterday (upgraded from a AC Freezer 7 Pro R2). Load temps dropped 10-15 degrees, and this is without a second fan & using the thermal paste that came with it. Really happy with this purchase.


I did the same upgrade and also notice a big difference. Another happy customer as I got it for Â£15.99 bargain really can hit 4.8 and it doesn't break mid 70's under prime using mx2 will post pics when can. Not sure if I'm added or not so if not please add me too!


----------



## kayoh

My cooler master just helped me OC to 3.8 ghz with temps no higher than 61

CM212+ Pride


----------



## chinesethunda

added you guys to the club


----------



## kinonotabi

Can I join?


----------



## chinesethunda

added, nice green fan


----------



## Ellis

Hold on, just saw the post about the possibility of the backplate shorting out parts on the motherboard due to its design.

Should I be worried? Should I even be using the computer?


----------



## kyuubi654

Nah, can't be.

I remember there being a plastic layer (or whatever type of non-conducting material that is) on the backplate, which isolates it from any contact with your motherboard. No worries there Ellis.

EDIT: My bad, that's for AMD sockets







But it's okay with Intel sockets as well. You've only got those 4 metal legs touching your motherboard (in that zone there are no contacts that could possibly come in contact with your backplate; other coolers have similar mounting solutions and they don't short any motherboards).


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kyuubi654*


Nah, can't be.

I remember there being a plastic layer (or whatever type of non-conducting material that is) on the backplate, which isolates it from any contact with your motherboard. No worries there Ellis.

EDIT: My bad, that's for AMD sockets







But it's okay with Intel sockets as well. You've only got those 4 metal legs touching your motherboard (in that zone there are no contacts that could possibly come in contact with your backplate; other coolers have similar mounting solutions and they don't short any motherboards).


Thanks for the confirmation.









I thought it seemed a bit odd that there was a possibilty of it shorting due to the plastic type stuff on the backplate, but I wasn't sure entirely. Need to get overclocking this thing!


----------



## kyuubi654

Make sure to let us know once you've reached your max







Frequency and temps and all that stuff would be nice for others to see where the Hyper212+ will get them









Sure wish i could push my CPU a bit further... argh.. i'll be replacing it with a newer model soon enough anyways and then i want to see what the Hyper212+ has to offer


----------



## Ellis

Of course. Not quite sure where to being though. Probably just ramp the multiplier up until it becomes unstable with stock voltage, then see from there.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyuubi654;14881255*
> Nah, can't be.
> 
> I remember there being a plastic layer (or whatever type of non-conducting material that is) on the backplate, which isolates it from any contact with your motherboard. No worries there Ellis.
> 
> EDIT: My bad, that's for AMD sockets
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it's okay with Intel sockets as well. You've only got those 4 metal legs touching your motherboard (in that zone there are no contacts that could possibly come in contact with your backplate; other coolers have similar mounting solutions and they don't short any motherboards).


Just so you know, the metal legs for Intel mounting also has the same kind of plastic on them as with on the AMD mounting side.


----------



## 4LC4PON3

add me please. Hyper 212 using a single fan for right now. Applied the thermal to my 955 black & running at 1000RPM results in temps of 33c. Tried applying thermal 3 diff times but cant get it any lower.

I may change the thermal to GELID Solutions GC-Extreme or TX-4


----------



## YangerD

That's one clean looking rig you got there


----------



## chinesethunda

4LC4PON3 added you. also clean case


----------



## Ellis

Nice looking rig 4LC4PON3


----------



## 4LC4PON3

Thanks guys im still not happy with the wiring job on my case yet. there are still a couple of visible wires in the rear of the bays that I can see that I have to tidy up. I have extremely bad OCD so its been bugging me to get to them asap.

but thanks


----------



## Witch King

Hi Guys,

My Hyper 212+ is loud. I went to the bios and changed the fan speed to silent. Well, now my idle temp is little higher (39C), but the difference is gonna be bigger in high loads. Does anyone have any problem with Hyper 212+ noise?


----------



## 4LC4PON3

if your running the hyper 212 at full fan speed which is like 1980 RPMS then yes its loud. I have mine set at 1400 RPM and I find it perfect. Please go to *User CP* then *Edit System*. Put your system specs in your sig so we can see what your running.


----------



## jameschisholm

Hi there, I'm about to buy a new setup soon, and I'm wondering what would be the best cfm fans to get for this cooler, but not being too noisy?

Akasa apache blacks any good? http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...id=57&subcat=4


----------



## VaporXtreme

are the nzxt 120mm fants good to use for push pull


----------



## Witch King

Quote:



Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*


if your running the hyper 212 at full fan speed which is like 1980 RPMS then yes its loud. I have mine set at 1400 RPM and I find it perfect. Please go to *User CP* then *Edit System*. Put your system specs in your sig so we can see what your running.


Yes! my fan was initially running at 1930 RPM!

Now, it's like 900 RPM. I have to find a way to adjust it to around 1400.

P.S. system updated


----------



## VaporXtreme

Really would love to know if the NZXT fans are good for a push pull setup


----------



## 4LC4PON3

If these are the NZXT fans your talking about they are fantastic fans. I used to run these fans on my A50. They move TONS of air. Trust me on this these are performance fans if your expecting quiet fans these are not for you. They are pretty quiet on low-Medium but on high 2600 RPM they are loud.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835146009

NZXT fan review: http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/nzxt_120mm_and_140mm_enthusiast_fan_review,7.html


----------



## chinesethunda

i use the blademasters and they work great. I doubt other fans will give you much more of a performance gain.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;14896906*
> i use the blademasters and they work great. I doubt other fans will give you much more of a performance gain.


Yep, this is what I hear. You can add in a second Blade Master if you really want, but switching out the fans for other ones and/or going to a push/pull setup doesn't really give you that much of a boost, I believe.


----------



## tecton3d

first of all, this cooler seems amazing for the price point - thus my interest but I'm wondering if anyone here has successfully lapped the 212+?

I would consider myself pretty technically inclined so I'm not worried about "how to do it"... more about "if it can be done"... and to what degree of success.

I know the pipes are hollow but I can't find anywhere in the documentation that talks about how thick the walls of the pipes are which would indicate how much material you could remove before ruination.

prost


----------



## micro5797

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tecton3d;14900968*
> first of all, this cooler seems amazing for the price point - thus my interest but I'm wondering if anyone here has successfully lapped the 212+?


I was going to lap mine, but my main concern when lapping is if the block is level so that it sits flat on the cpu.

The cooler was flat, so i did not find the need for lapping.
meaning if i was to take the time and effort to lap, i doubt it would drop the temps even one full degree. Though i would love to hear others thoughts on this.


----------



## sweffymo

It's a bad idea to lap a cooler whose heatpipes are exposed like those of the 212+.


----------



## 4LC4PON3

You cannot lap a Hyper 212_ as the heat pipes are exposed you can do a very lite lap to remove anything that feels rough but be careful


----------



## texas_nightowl

Hey guys...I am a new Hyper 212+ owner...just installed it tonight on a 2500k on an Asus P8Z68-V board.

I did a couple dry runs of MX4 application and then finally ended up doing 3 small lines on the 212+ and didn't even check it, just applied...and I hate the push/spring pins by the way. But, it's on.

I finally have the system up (and I'm posting this from it!) and wanted to check in with my temps.

My ambient temp is 25C.
Core Temp showed idle around 32-33C.
I'm about 7 minutes into Prime95 blend and temps are 50/45/51/50.

Are these temps OK or do I need to pull the 212+ off and try again?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;14918517*
> Hey guys...I am a new Hyper 212+ owner...just installed it tonight on a 2500k on an Asus P8Z68-V board.
> 
> I did a couple dry runs of MX4 application and then finally ended up doing 3 small lines on the 212+ and didn't even check it, just applied...and I hate the push/spring pins by the way. But, it's on.
> 
> I finally have the system up (and I'm posting this from it!) and wanted to check in with my temps.
> 
> My ambient temp is 25C.
> Core Temp showed idle around 32-33C.
> I'm about 7 minutes into Prime95 blend and temps are 50/45/51/50.
> 
> Are these temps OK or do I need to pull the 212+ off and try again?


Hyper 212 Plus doesn't use push pins.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Spring pins then? Whatever they're called. The 4 pins you have to push down to get into the holes from the standoffs. Anyway, I don't like them. But it's done.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;14918625*
> Spring pins then? Whatever they're called. The 4 pins you have to push down to get into the holes from the standoffs. Anyway, I don't like them. But it's done.


Uhh.. You're not supposed to push the mounting mechanism on the Hyper 212 Plus. The mounting mechanism on the 212 Plus should be screwed in, those are spring loaded screws my friend. Maybe you confused your cooler with some other cooler??


----------



## texas_nightowl

OK, it's late and I'm obviously not phrasing things well. I'm definitely talking about the Hyper 212+. There's the retainer x-shaped thing with screws that you have to maneuver (ie. push down) to meet the hole that you then screw them into. They do have wire wrapped around them, ie. springs. Anyway, it's done and I have to get to bed so I can act like I'm doing work at work in a few hours.


----------



## chinesethunda

added you nightowl
i feel your pain, just got done studying 8 hours and now its 4 in the morning....


----------



## cosmosschwarz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tecton3d*


first of all, this cooler seems amazing for the price point - thus my interest but I'm wondering if anyone here has successfully lapped the 212+?

I would consider myself pretty technically inclined so I'm not worried about "how to do it"... more about "if it can be done"... and to what degree of success.

I know the pipes are hollow but I can't find anywhere in the documentation that talks about how thick the walls of the pipes are which would indicate how much material you could remove before ruination.

prost










I lightly wet-sanded the bottom of mine with 2000 grit, just to remove/polish the rough surfaces that were mainly on the fins(as opposed to the pipes themselves). It did polish the pipe surfaces just a bit, but I didn't get too crazy. The combination of that and the very tight mounting to the CPU has given me pretty good results. I am getting about 33-34 under full load during Prime95 while OC'd to 3.75Ghz(on my sig rig), whereas with the arctic freezer 7 pro I had originally it would shutoff at 60(had system set to auto shutdown at 60 while testing) within 5 mins of starting Prime95.

EDIT: Also, just to note, I applied Arctic Silver 5 between the gaps on the cooler base first with a razor blade, used a coffee filter to then clean off the excess(leaving the gaps filled but the rest of the base clean), then used the three line method across the fins of the base.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*


Hey guys...I am a new Hyper 212+ owner...just installed it tonight on a 2500k on an Asus P8Z68-V board.

I did a couple dry runs of MX4 application and then finally ended up doing 3 small lines on the 212+ and didn't even check it, just applied...and I hate the push/spring pins by the way. But, it's on.

I finally have the system up (and I'm posting this from it!) and wanted to check in with my temps.

My ambient temp is 25C.
Core Temp showed idle around 32-33C.
I'm about 7 minutes into Prime95 blend and temps are 50/45/51/50.

Are these temps OK or do I need to pull the 212+ off and try again?


Nope, those temps are good. A little bit lower than mine were at stock, and your ambient temps are higher. For reference, my 2500K is at 4.7GHz 1.36V right now and load temps are around 75C. (yeah, the sig needs updating, I'll do that now)

Quote:



Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl*


OK, it's late and I'm obviously not phrasing things well. I'm definitely talking about the Hyper 212+. There's the retainer x-shaped thing with screws that you have to maneuver (ie. push down) to meet the hole that you then screw them into. They do have wire wrapped around them, ie. springs. Anyway, it's done and I have to get to bed so I can act like I'm doing work at work in a few hours.


Yeah, I know what you mean. And yes, the 212+ is a pain to mount, especially when your case's motherboard cut-out ends up like this:










That bottom left one was a right pain, I had to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to hold the nut in place whilst I turned the bolt from the other side. Oh well, it's on now.


----------



## texas_nightowl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;14922628*
> Nope, those temps are good. A little bit lower than mine were at stock, and your ambient temps are higher. For reference, my 2500K is at 4.7GHz 1.36V right now and load temps are around 75C. (yeah, the sig needs updating, I'll do that now)


Thanks! I was doing a little searching and it did seem like the temps were good, but nice to hear it too.

Here's a pic of my MX-4 application. This is after two trial runs of using 2 lines instead of 3. It looks like a lot more paste in the pics than it did in person...but as temps are good I'll probably leave it alone.










And yes, your cutout for mounting is a bit awkward!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;14922628*
> Nope, those temps are good. A little bit lower than mine were at stock, and your ambient temps are higher. For reference, my 2500K is at 4.7GHz 1.36V right now and load temps are around 75C. (yeah, the sig needs updating, I'll do that now)
> 
> Yeah, I know what you mean. And yes, the 212+ is a pain to mount, especially when your case's motherboard cut-out ends up like this:
> 
> That bottom left one was a right pain, I had to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to hold the nut in place whilst I turned the bolt from the other side. Oh well, it's on now.


Heh I feel your pain with that mount, the HAF has the same cutout.. I ended up just loosening the bottom standoffs on the mb, and removing the top ones so I could tilt it out enough to get it on, I didn't wanna take everything out and redo wiring all over lol.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;14922803*
> Thanks! I was doing a little searching and it did seem like the temps were good, but nice to hear it too.
> 
> Here's a pic of my MX-4 application. This is after two trial runs of using 2 lines instead of 3. It looks like a lot more paste in the pics than it did in person...but as temps are good I'll probably leave it alone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, your cutout for mounting is a bit awkward!


Yeah, I did a similar application method but with two lines of paste. I wasn't sure how succesful it was, but temps were alright (not brilliant, but also not worth re-mounting and applying new paste) so I kept it as it was. Also, I'm just using the thermal paste that came with the 212+ because most people say it's perfectly fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better;14923164*
> Heh I feel your pain with that mount, the HAF has the same cutout.. I ended up just loosening the bottom standoffs on the mb, and removing the top ones so I could tilt it out enough to get it on, I didn't wanna take everything out and redo wiring all over lol.


Ah, I didn't think to partially take out the motherboard, but as it was a bit of a pain getting the board in there and lined up with the I/O shield etc. I didn't want to take it out.


----------



## iXVappzz649Xi

i would like to be added thank you. CM Hyper still waiting for fans thought











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## chinesethunda

added. whats wrong with the stock fan?


----------



## iXVappzz649Xi

i was going for red fans


----------



## chinesethunda

o okay, so what did you order? you couldn't paint the blademasters red?


----------



## iXVappzz649Xi

to lazy to do that lol

im going to get these

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0350039


----------



## chinesethunda

o okay, I have those in blue. they are decent, too bad they don't push as much air as the blademasters though =( o well


----------



## ArrJay

Good day! Need help please.
I am having trouble installing this cpu fan. The screws of the retention plate couldn't reach the stand-offs. I can only secure the screw on one side but the opposite side I can't. Is there a solution to this?
By the way, my mobo is ASUS M4A89GTD PRO/USB3 and my CPU s AMD Phenom II X4 955 BE.
Thanks!


----------



## ffejrxx

tighten them in a X pattern

Code:



Code:


1   3
 \ /
  x
 / \
4   2

start 1 by 1-2 turns
repeat for all 4 screws
tighten them in that order by 3-4 turns at a time until tight


----------



## Cee

Add me


----------



## Captain318

Add me Please. 4.5Ghz Cores Loaded 70c - 75 @ 1.3v Depending on Ambient
Sorry for the bad pic my Phones Camera is Poo


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cee;14955416*
> Add me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain318;14955465*
> Add me Please. 4.5Ghz Cores Loaded 70c - 75 @ 1.3v Depending on Ambient
> Sorry for the bad pic my Phones Camera is Poo


added you 2, also your case is looks good


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;14747065*
> So, I added a second fan to my 212+ for a push pull setup. It has made NO difference in temps at all. =( I dont know, maybe its the case and how air is flowing, not sure.
> 
> Case is Antec 300. With 2x120mm fans front for intake, 1x120mm rear exhaust, 140mm top exhaust fan. Not running a side fan atm, so that vent is free and open (however, paper is sucked to it like a inlet)
> 
> Thinking of removing the pull fan, because its literally about 1 inch from the rear exaust fan. Plus I have noticed that my top exhaust fan is barely moving any air because the 212+ is quite large. Heh.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Ski


I have mine pointed up with a single push fan in my antec 300. The top 140mm fan seems to do a good job of exhausting. My rear fan blows into a wall and is a bit tight behind the case so I decided to exhaust up. I tried two fans also and saw no drop in temps.


----------



## micro5797

Has anyone seen this review of using the 212+ and the difference in temps with push/pull and different rpms?
http://gigaflopd.com/reviews/hyper-212-plus-push-pull/


----------



## chinesethunda

I am doing a test right now. Will post results


----------



## Highrisk

Any i7 930 owners care to share their temps with one fan? This is also on stock settings, aka no overclocking. I want to know how my temperatures compare to i7 930 owners out there because I can't find anything on google.

My idle right now is 38C
Load temp 10 mins of Small FFT Prime95 was 62-64C


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Highrisk;14968607*
> Any i7 930 owners care to share their temps with one fan? This is also on stock settings, aka no overclocking. I want to know how my temperatures compare to i7 930 owners out there because I can't find anything on google.
> 
> My idle right now is 38C
> Load temp 10 mins of Small FFT Prime95 was 62-64C


That seems absolutely normal considering how hot running was the first gen i7's.


----------



## JonnyBigBoss

Add me! My Hyper 212+ is doing an amazing job with cooling my AMD 965. The darn thing won't break 43 celsius in any game I've played so far, and I'm only using a push fan.


----------



## chinesethunda

added you, check out my thread regarding the push vs pull, they don't vary too much


----------



## Neroh

Can anyone using a 1155 mobo confirm that the 212+ only blocks the closest DIMM slot to the CPU and not two? I'm not sure if the distance between the cpu and memory slots changes on different Intel/AMD sockets etc.

Unfortunately my memory is ridiculously tall and there's no way it'd squeeze under the cooler. I only need to use two slots though, the one furthest away and the second closest slot.

This has probably been answered but search didn't yield anything conclusive and I don't want to read 280 pages!


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neroh;14975861*
> Can anyone using a 1155 mobo confirm that the 212+ only blocks the closest DIMM slot to the CPU and not two? I'm not sure if the distance between the cpu and memory slots changes on different Intel/AMD sockets etc.
> 
> Unfortunately my memory is ridiculously tall and there's no way it'd squeeze under the cooler. I only need to use two slots though, the one furthest away and the second closest slot.
> 
> This has probably been answered but search didn't yield anything conclusive and I don't want to read 280 pages!


Fine on my board using those two slots.

You'd probably just about get a stick of this RAM in the slot closest to the fan, but it would block the bottom bit of the fan so might stop it blowing as much air over the heatsink. Here's mine, anyway:


----------



## Neroh

Awesome looks like I won't have any problems, thanks alot!


----------



## xcyper33

My CM Hyper 212+ has been steadily decreasing in quality over the months that I have had it. When I first got it, it idle'd at 28-29C and it went to 50-53C at FULL load. Now, I reached 63C on full load. Whats the deal? It didn't get any better when I reapplied some TM and dusted off my fan.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xcyper33;14976213*
> My CM Hyper 212+ has been steadily decreasing in quality over the months that I have had it. When I first got it, it idle'd at 28-29C and it went to 50-53C at FULL load. Now, I reached 63C on full load. Whats the deal? It didn't get any better when I reapplied some TM and dusted off my fan.


Are your ambient temperatures still the same??


----------



## xcyper33

It is now starting to get cooler outside. So...


----------



## Miz3r

Hi all, i am buying this great cooler very soon, i just want to know, what would be the best configuration for this setup for good cooling and a possible overclock on my 940BE to maybe around 3.8ghz if possible?

Single or dual fans, and i was thinking about either the Scythe Gentle Typhoons, or Yate loons to use for my fan setup.

What you guys think would work best?


----------



## chinesethunda

push pull refer to THIS


----------



## micro5797

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neroh;14975861*
> Can anyone using a 1155 mobo confirm that the 212+ only blocks the closest DIMM slot to the CPU and not two? I'm not sure if the distance between the cpu and memory slots changes on different Intel/AMD sockets etc.
> 
> Unfortunately my memory is ridiculously tall and there's no way it'd squeeze under the cooler. I only need to use two slots though, the one furthest away and the second closest slot.
> 
> This has probably been answered but search didn't yield anything conclusive and I don't want to read 280 pages!


Though you already have your answer,here are links to a pic of the 212 + in place on my gigabyte 1155.
I am using four sticks of Corsair vengeance (2"tall memory) with a pull only toward the back of the case. If you place a fan as a push over the memory, the top clip will only hold on to one fin on the cooler.

http://micro5797.deviantart.com/gallery/#/d3rjxkx
http://micro5797.deviantart.com/art/Gigabyte-with-cooler-master-227665340?q=gallery%3Amicro5797%2F24432827&qo=7


----------



## Miz3r

Right, well i ordered my new 212+ aswell as 2x Zalman ZM-SF3 fans with Shark Fin Blade design for push/pull config.

So will see how well they stack up against the other fans i have, and will see which is best.


----------



## merwan

add me please









edit: its strange my sigs arent appearing thought i copied and paste the code and made sure i can see a preview of the sig. something im doing wrong?


----------



## chinesethunda

Merwan i added you. If the sig is messing up il check it out later. Are you sure you copied it all?

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## Neroh

So I installed this cooler today, works great and I'll post pics when I have a camera that isn't from a phone made 5+ years ago









What was weird is that the cooler kind of sat at a slightly off angle. It's pointed a few degrees upwards, not sure if that's normal. I tried to adjust it but it's wedged in tight and won't actually even move a millimeter haha. Can't be bothered to reseat it, my OCD will have to deal with it for a few months.

Edit: temps are 32c at idle (down from 34c with the stock cooler), the main difference is load temps, which are now 45c during Starcraft 2, down from 59c. Probably a combination of the awful crusty TIM I saw when I removed the stock cooler, and the fact the 212+ is 3 times bigger.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neroh;15024233*
> So I installed this cooler today, works great and I'll post pics when I have a camera that isn't from a phone made 5+ years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What was weird is that the cooler kind of sat at a slightly off angle. It's pointed a few degrees upwards, not sure if that's normal. I tried to adjust it but it's wedged in tight and won't actually even move a millimeter haha. Can't be bothered to reseat it, my OCD will have to deal with it for a few months.
> 
> Edit: temps are 32c at idle (down from 34c with the stock cooler), the main difference is load temps, which are now 45c during Starcraft 2, down from 59c. Probably a combination of the awful crusty TIM I saw when I removed the stock cooler, and the fact the 212+ is 3 times bigger.


I can't see sigrigs at the moment as I'm on my phone, what CPU are you using? Not sure what to say about the off orientation really, I'd keep it as it is if the temps are fine, which they are.

Sent from my T-Mobile G1


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neroh;15024233*
> So I installed this cooler today, works great and I'll post pics when I have a camera that isn't from a phone made 5+ years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What was weird is that the cooler kind of sat at a slightly off angle. It's pointed a few degrees upwards, not sure if that's normal. I tried to adjust it but it's wedged in tight and won't actually even move a millimeter haha. Can't be bothered to reseat it, my OCD will have to deal with it for a few months.
> 
> Edit: temps are 32c at idle (down from 34c with the stock cooler), the main difference is load temps, which are now 45c during Starcraft 2, down from 59c. Probably a combination of the awful crusty TIM I saw when I removed the stock cooler, and the fact the 212+ is 3 times bigger.


The hold down bracket of the 212 Plus actually allows the heat sink unit to spin a little bit, probably 2~3 degrees of angle. Check Hardware Canuck's review. Even I myself experience this.


----------



## Blargdude

The Hyper 212 Plus is a boss, got my i5 2500K up to 4.7 and keeps it right around 70 degrees while running IntelBurnTest. LOVE IT!!!


----------



## texas_nightowl

Ugh. So since I first posted the temps below, I have had to swap out the board which means I had to re-attach the 212+. And my temps are now much worse! Here is what I got before:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;14918517*
> My ambient temp is 25C.
> Core Temp showed idle around 32-33C.
> I'm about 7 minutes into Prime95 blend and temps are 50/45/51/50.


Keep in mind, I am still running stock settings. No OC.

Now, with an ambient temp of 24c, my idle is nearly the same 31-32c so that is OK, but my temps at load with Prime95 blend are 5-10 degrees higher! I saw a high temp of 67 last night which is more than 10 degrees warmer than before!

I've cleaned off the thermal paste and re-seated/re-applied a few times trying different methods. 3 lines, 2 lines, a couple of dots, etc. and temps are still higher than original. (Part of the reason for trying different methods also is that I had applied too much TIM...had it oozing a bit out the sides.)

One thing I think I need to try is to go back and clean out as much as possible the crevices around the pipes. I was "cleaning" the surface off each time but wasn't necessarily prying out the old TIM in the crevices? But other than that, I'm at a bit of a loss!


----------



## chinesethunda

Neroh i added you to the club

also guys check out this thread i made about push vs pull


----------



## trumpet-205

Preordered Hyper 212 Evo to replace my stock fan. Gonna have to wait for another week for Newegg to release them.


----------



## Neroh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;15025511*
> The hold down bracket of the 212 Plus actually allows the heat sink unit to spin a little bit, probably 2~3 degrees of angle. Check Hardware Canuck's review. Even I myself experience this.


So I read that review... I wonder if I have a new revision that allows for no movement? My fan comes with clips and there's no need for that wire to hold it in place. Also I got the crappier TIM.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neroh;15032463*
> So I read that review... I wonder if I have a new revision that allows for no movement? My fan comes with clips and there's no need for that wire to hold it in place. Also I got the crappier TIM.


My fan comes with clips instead of wires too, and I also got the crappier TIM too. What is the same is that the mounting mechanism is exactly the same.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *texas_nightowl;15025980*
> Ugh. So since I first posted the temps below, I have had to swap out the board which means I had to re-attach the 212+. And my temps are now much worse! Here is what I got before:
> 
> Keep in mind, I am still running stock settings. No OC.
> 
> Now, with an ambient temp of 24c, my idle is nearly the same 31-32c so that is OK, but my temps at load with Prime95 blend are 5-10 degrees higher! I saw a high temp of 67 last night which is more than 10 degrees warmer than before!
> 
> I've cleaned off the thermal paste and re-seated/re-applied a few times trying different methods. 3 lines, 2 lines, a couple of dots, etc. and temps are still higher than original. (Part of the reason for trying different methods also is that I had applied too much TIM...had it oozing a bit out the sides.)
> 
> One thing I think I need to try is to go back and clean out as much as possible the crevices around the pipes. I was "cleaning" the surface off each time but wasn't necessarily prying out the old TIM in the crevices? But other than that, I'm at a bit of a loss!


Try to check the voltage your new board is putting through your processor.


----------



## Neroh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;15033289*
> My fan comes with clips instead of wires too, and I also got the crappier TIM too. What is the same is that the mounting mechanism is exactly the same.


So I decided to reseat it and I got it straight, still no movement though. I slid the bracket underneath the cooler and corrected where it was facing, but as soon as I put screw all 4 screws in (even just very slightly so that they stay) movement is restricted. Seems a pretty tight fit.

May have something to do with my mobo. I don't mind it though, as long as you correct it before you lock it down, its garantueed to stay where it is even if you knock it.


----------



## Ellis

My (older revision) 212+ allowed me to rotate it either way somewhat when I was using it horizontally, but since I remounted it vertically on a different motherboard it won't budge at all.


----------



## MrSleepin

i have one... but i replaced it with hydro...

if anyone wants it!


----------



## hometoast

You can add me to the club, please.

I have a question though.

My fan seems to be quite loud. Less whooshing, and more buzzing or clicking sounding. Anyone have an idea where to start to shut this thing up? I mean, it's not LOUD. But I can definitely hear it when the case fans are turned down.


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hometoast;15039102*
> You can add me to the club, please.
> 
> I have a question though.
> 
> My fan seems to be quite loud. Less whooshing, and more buzzing or clicking sounding. Anyone have an idea where to start to shut this thing up? I mean, it's not LOUD. But I can definitely hear it when the case fans are turned down.


make sure its the cpu fan, unplug all the other fans

you can try coolermaster support
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/tech_support.php?action=Form

or you can get a new one from newegg for $10
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069


----------



## chinesethunda

added you to the club, make sure its getting enough power


----------



## merwan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15002432*
> Merwan i added you. If the sig is messing up il check it out later. Are you sure you copied it all?
> 
> Sent from my brain using my fingers


thank you and i sorted out the sig problem. was new to putting sigs but now get the hang.

i love this cooler, im already in sandy stable club. look at my load temps with [email protected]!! no more that 65C!


----------



## chinesethunda

nice temps!


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ffejrxx*


make sure its the cpu fan, unplug all the other fans

you can try coolermaster support
http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/tech...hp?action=Form

or you can get a new one from newegg for $10
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103069


LOL. Started isolating noises tonight. Turned out it was the HDD's! Need a little foam and I'll be super quiet again. (durr)


----------



## nowcontrol

I'm in...


----------



## RickyOG90

I just got my new Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P motherboard and installed my new CM Hyper 212+, soon I will be getting 2 CM 120mm blue LED fans to be set up on this bad boy for more cooling. Here are some pics


----------



## Jaxlb

I'm in.
Image is a bit old, not that it matters.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RickyOG90;15055954*
> I just got my new Gigabyte GA-EP45-UD3P motherboard and installed my new CM Hyper 212+, soon I will be getting 2 CM 120mm blue LED fans to be set up on this bad boy for more cooling. Here are some pics


That's a great motherboard, get overclocking that Q9550!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaxlb;15057082*
> I'm in.
> Image is a bit old, not that it matters.


That motherboard looks a lot like my old MSI P31 board.


----------



## rdr09

here's mine. may i join?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09;15058689*
> here's mine. may i join?


I love your sig LOL


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;15058598*
> That motherboard looks a lot like my old MSI P31 board.


That's a G31 board.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;15059294*
> That's a G31 board.


I know it is, I'm just saying I looked at it and at first glance thought it might even be the same board as the one I used to have.

Well, I still have it actually, but I'm not using it.


----------



## X-Country Dude96

I have one







. Count me in! ;D. Hopefully you update often .







I'll just add the sig code right now if you don't mind







. Man, I used to run at 78C at full load on my stock cooler. >_>. I'm sooo glad I decided to get an aftermarket.


----------



## ieatchairs

I have one coming in the mail... does that count? haha
On a different note, would it be better to get a second Blademaster or to just mount 2 of these (http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=14110AC5417) instead? I assume it would be best to have two of the same fan, so those are my options.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ieatchairs;15060884*
> I have one coming in the mail... does that count? haha
> On a different note, would it be better to get a second Blademaster or to just mount 2 of these (http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=14110AC5417) instead? I assume it would be best to have two of the same fan, so those are my options.


The Ultra Kazes would probably give you better temperatures, but the difference might not be that incredible.


----------



## chinesethunda

added all y'all to the club. welcome!


----------



## ieatchairs

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ellis*


The Ultra Kazes would probably give you better temperatures, but the difference might not be that incredible.


Alright. I'll probably end up going with them since they're cheaper anyway and using the Blademaster as a case fan then. Thanks for the input









Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


added all y'all to the club. welcome!


Thanks!


----------



## Jaxlb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ellis*


That motherboard looks a lot like my old MSI P31 board.


Yea it does. I absolutely hate this board but I'm not going to replace it since it's probably more worth it just buying a new rig.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


added all y'all to the club. welcome!


Thanks


----------



## billcox0625

Can you add me to the club?


----------



## LtCheese

Has anyone tried to mount a Thermalright TY-140 or two to their 212+? That would be interesting to see if it works and how effective those fans are on the 212. I thought I'd ask in the official club


----------



## SSJVegeta

What would the difference between the Hyper 212+ and Thermalright Archon be in terms of OC on a 2500K? 500MHz difference i.e 4.5GHz vs 5GHz?


----------



## X-Country Dude96

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


added all y'all to the club. welcome!


Thank you! Man.. if only subz3r0 would update as often, but oh well. He's probably got a lot on his plate.







. But really.. thank you!







.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ieatchairs;15061652*
> Alright. I'll probably end up going with them since they're cheaper anyway and using the Blademaster as a case fan then. Thanks for the input
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


why wouldn't you use blademasters as heat sink fans? they have great static pressure, using them as case fans seems a bit of a waste imo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billcox0625;15064754*
> Can you add me to the club?


added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LtCheese;15065171*
> Has anyone tried to mount a Thermalright TY-140 or two to their 212+? That would be interesting to see if it works and how effective those fans are on the 212. I thought I'd ask in the official club


the difference would be minimal, at most 1-2C
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta;15065417*
> What would the difference between the Hyper 212+ and Thermalright Archon be in terms of OC? 500MHz difference i.e 4.5GHz vs 5GHz?


probably, the archon is pretty impressive, so i would say that seems about right


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


probably, the archon is pretty impressive, so i would say that seems about right


Probably should have mentioned I meant the 2500K


----------



## LoneWolf15

The updated Hyper 212 Evo is supposed to be released tomorrow.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103099

Same fin/heatpipe design, but an improved contact plate and updated fan.


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LoneWolf15*


The updated Hyper 212 Evo is supposed to be released tomorrow.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835103099

Same fin/heatpipe design, but an improved contact plate and updated fan.


I pre-ordered one, so I should get it by Friday this week (free UPS 3 day shipping). I'll post update once I get it.


----------



## chinesethunda

meh, for 10-15 bucks more than the 212+ idk if its worth it


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


meh, for 10-15 bucks more than the 212+ idk if its worth it


I reckon 5C difference, max. So I'd say no, not worth it.


----------



## chinesethunda

Thats what I was thinking. oh well. Idk if we should recommend the new evo or still the 212+

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## Faster_is_better

Well we recommend the Hyper 212+ for its price/performance being amazing. Unless this can prove to be a much better performer at a good price, then I don't see it taking over the crown.


----------



## LoneWolf15

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


meh, for 10-15 bucks more than the 212+ idk if its worth it


It looked more like $5 to me.

There are two main differences, the fan, and a different contact plate; the heat pipes are closer together. I'm guessing a possible 2C difference, but for five extra it probably isn't a bad way to go. Its price will probably be down in a few months and the 212+ will probably be fully replaced by it.

The rest of it is pretty much the same, number of fins, height/width, number of heatpipes, so it should be equal for sure, but I'm guessing it will be a mild improvement.


----------



## Ellis

Yeah, I'm assuming that for a while this will be a bit more expensive than the 212+ and not really worth it, but then the 212+ will probably be phased out completely in favour of the 212 Evo, and people will be able to get a tiny bit extra performance for the same price, which is pretty good in my books.


----------



## ElectroGeek007

I have one of these on my Sempron (36C max @ 3.8 GHz, lol), which will be replaced by a FX-8150 in due time. I plan to purchase another for my 775 OC'ing project as well.

Add me please!


----------



## Cygnus X-1

If I needed a heatsink I would pay 5 to ten bucks more for the evo. I mean 5c cooler if that's possible is a decent amount, and would still offer more bank for the buck than most coolers.


----------



## roboris

hello, mine was a pain to install for an am3 socket, the mounting bracket sure made me sweat, is it normal that I ran into trouble for this socket? My problem was that the mounting bracket barely fit, and as a result, the cpu is not perfectly under the metal thing, a small part on one side touches the heatpipes directly. Seems to work okay, but I am still disappoint so far in the whole experience.


----------



## Boyd

I have a question about the 212 + cooler. I loved it and specially how much good reviews it got on newegg. anyways the question is. me and my friend have similar rigs. i7 870 on both, CM Hyper 212+ on both, 8 gb ram on both, Galaxy GTX 560 Ti on both, HAF 922 case on both etc etc, similar rigs.

Why would his rig idle at ~23 degress while mine idles at around ~32 stock and ~37 overclocked from stock to 3.84ghz 160 bus. Forgot to mention we have the same kind of thermal paste applied to our systems and I was the person who built both rigs and installed the thermal paste. any suggestions why those differences would be?


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyd*


I have a question about the 212 + cooler. I loved it and specially how much good reviews it got on newegg. anyways the question is. me and my friend have similar rigs. i7 870 on both, CM Hyper 212+ on both, 8 gb ram on both, Galaxy GTX 560 Ti on both, HAF 922 case on both etc etc, similar rigs.

Why would his rig idle at ~23 degress while mine idles at around ~32 stock and ~37 overclocked from stock to 3.84ghz 160 bus. Forgot to mention we have the same kind of thermal paste applied to our systems and I was the person who built both rigs and installed the thermal paste. any suggestions why those differences would be?


Ambient temperature can makes a difference.


----------



## Boyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *trumpet-205*


Ambient temperature can makes a difference.


so bascially you are saying i shouldnt worry about such small difference?


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Boyd*


so bascially you are saying i shouldnt worry about such small difference?


Your friend's room is most likely cooler than yours. I think you should worry more on load temperature.


----------



## chinesethunda

you might have also mounted it differently


----------



## Boyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15096633*
> you might have also mounted it differently


I double checked that aswell. everything is the same except for... his motherboard is different than mine, he has gigabyte GA-P55- something i got the GA-H55M-S2V, his is more advanced than mine but I dont think that would cause the CPU to run ~10 degrees cooler than mine lol.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyd;15096910*
> I double checked that aswell. everything is the same except for... his motherboard is different than mine, he has gigabyte GA-P55- something i got the GA-H55M-S2V, his is more advanced than mine but I dont think that would cause the CPU to run ~10 degrees cooler than mine lol.


I wouldn't even bother thinking about idle temps, there are too many things that can cause them to be completely different from PC to PC. Compare load temps, then if you still have a 10C difference, that's when you should start to figure out why.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15061349*
> added all y'all to the club. welcome!


thanks.


----------



## Metalcrack

Throw me in! Dual Blademasters push-pull.


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## trumpet-205

Just installed my 212 Evo. I was going to install it yesterday since UPS said it would be delivered by the end of the day. Guess what, they were right. UPS knocked on my door at 11PM!?







Right before I was going to sleep.









So I installed it today morning and here it is


































Unfortunately this is far as I can go regarding cable management (some cables aren't long enough to be wired at the back).

So couple things,

* Evo fan has four small holes facing inwards at each corner. My guess is that it is for those who wants to install LED strips.
* User manual asks you to apply the TIM at heatsink, not the CPU itself.
* There are still some tiny gaps between heat-pipes even though they're are packed together. You can feel it with your hands.
* User manual is fairly straight forward. Although I wish CM does a better job on bracket. Kind of hard to set screws in LGA775, 1366, and 1155 position.
* You really need to remove the fan, RAMs, and the GPU (or whatever card it's in your first slot) beforehand, otherwise you have no room to work on it.

212 Evo replaced my Intel stock fan. A 40C idle temperature now dropped to 34C. Prime95 torture test yields 50C, not bad. My ambient temperature is around 28C to 30C. Keep in mind I use MX-4 instead of the TIM comes with the packaging. I probably will reseat it in the future, since I believed I add too much TIM. This is my first time installing third party HSF.

With that all said, can I join this club, even though it is 212 Evo?


----------



## billcox0625

Pics of my CM Hyper 212 plus in my CM HAF 912


----------



## Boyd

I already got my Hyper 212+ but I dont want to post any pictures yet until I recieve my 2nd CM 120mm fan and have a Push/Pull setup.


----------



## Prpntblr95

Ordered my 212+ Last night, didn't realize the Evo came out till today at lunch but it was already too late and my order was already "shipped" but for the sake of a few db's and a few lower CFM I think I'll be doin fine


----------



## chinesethunda

Prpntblr95, Boyd added you to the club, trumpet, idk if i should add you yet, we shall see what the general consensus is.

What do you people think? should we include the EVO or no?


----------



## ffejrxx

id vote yes, since its the same heatsink shipped with different fan

since other 212+ members have replaced the fans and are still in the club


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ffejrxx*


id vote yes, since its the same heatsink shipped with different fan

since other 212+ members have replaced the fans and are still in the club


They're not exactly the same heatsinks.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billcox0625;15118217*
> Pics of my CM Hyper 212 plus in my CM HAF 912












Awesome looking build you have there.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15122337*
> Prpntblr95, Boyd added you to the club, trumpet, idk if i should add you yet, we shall see what the general consensus is.
> 
> What do you people think? should we include the EVO or no?


I'd say yes.


----------



## ffejrxx

i see, the base is slightly different
they bent the pipes so no aluminum between the heatpipes at the base

212 evo









212+


----------



## RickyOG90

Hey guys, I got a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ on a Q9550 overclocked to 3.706GHz and tryin to get it to 4.0GHz. Here are some pics


----------



## mrhiab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15122337*
> Prpntblr95, Boyd added you to the club, trumpet, idk if i should add you yet, we shall see what the general consensus is.
> 
> What do you people think? should we include the EVO or no?


i vote yeah!


----------



## Geronimo25

add me! i have one


----------



## chinesethunda

Geronimo25, added you but show some pics =)
RickyOG90 added you, nice looking rig
trumpet-205 added you


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15122337*
> Prpntblr95, Boyd added you to the club, trumpet, idk if i should add you yet, we shall see what the general consensus is.
> 
> What do you people think? should we include the EVO or no?


Thank you

I'll have pics up once I get it and install it


----------



## stomii

On Up and running thanks


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15126108*
> Geronimo25, added you but show some pics =)
> RickyOG90 added you, nice looking rig
> trumpet-205 added you


Thanks.


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;15123492*
> i see, the base is slightly different
> they bent the pipes so no aluminum between the heatpipes at the base
> 
> 212 evo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 212+


I wonder if the 212+ evo has better temps than the original 212 plus?
The 212 Evo with a smooth base makes it easy so thermal paste can be put on the CPU instead.
I like my 212+,but the HSF mounting bolts are cheap.


----------



## ffejrxx

the temps are about 2-5c better iirc
but the surface still looks fairly rough
id still use 2-3 lines on it just to be safe


----------



## Swiftdeathz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*


I wonder if the 212+ evo has better temps than the original 212 plus?
The 212 Evo with a smooth base makes it easy so thermal paste can be put on the CPU instead.
I like my 212+,but the HSF mounting bolts are cheap.


I posted 2 reviews that recently came out:

http://www.pureoverclock.com/article1368.html

http://www.hitechlegion.com/reviews/...-cooler-review


----------



## chinesethunda

good review, i think I will add it to the OP


----------



## Ellis

Does anyone know what kind of temps I would see with a single AP-13 running on my 212+? I want my PC to be as silent as possible, and at the moment the CPU fan isn't too quiet.

Running it in PWM "silent" mode in the BIOS and it just about hits 70C under Prime95, but no higher. In games it gets to around 60-65C most of the time.


----------



## Chuckclc

Wow this club has made mad strides since its inception! I had a Hyper 212+ for almost a year before moving on and I have to say it was an awesome cooler. If you look at this link i hit my first 4.1ghz AMD clock with my Hyper 212+. And since they are so affordable I havent tried to sale mine so it acts as my backup in case something happens. Now with the release of Intels 32nm chips and soon to be AMD 32nm chips, these things are even more valuable. Way to go CM Hyper 212+!!! http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/58...4ghz-club.html


----------



## stomii

Heres mine


----------



## 4LC4PON3

The evo is a great cooler for those who dont already own the Hyper 212+ but my problem is this. Why would you create a new cooler and have absolutely NO difference at all. Ok it uses alittle less thermal application but other then that there is no difference.

Also they released the setup with once again with a single fan. They should be releasing them with dual fans. I love my Hyper 212+ & was hoping the new EVO would push alittle more then what it did. Was kind of disappointed.


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3;15136409*
> The evo is a great cooler for those who dont already own the Hyper 212+ but my problem is this. Why would you create a new cooler and have absolutely NO difference at all. Ok it uses alittle less thermal application but other then that there is no difference.
> 
> Also they released the setup with once again with a single fan. They should be releasing them with dual fans. I love my Hyper 212+ & was hoping the new EVO would push alittle more then what it did. Was kind of disappointed.


Personally, I predict second fan are not helping much. This is because my case is small. A second fan and rear exhaust fan being so close is going to have some turbulence.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3;15136409*
> The evo is a great cooler for those who dont already own the Hyper 212+ but my problem is this. Why would you create a new cooler and have absolutely NO difference at all. Ok it uses alittle less thermal application but other then that there is no difference.
> 
> Also they released the setup with once again with a single fan. They should be releasing them with dual fans. I love my Hyper 212+ & was hoping the new EVO would push alittle more then what it did. Was kind of disappointed.


If they do release a dual fan version then I want a PWM splitter included.


----------



## _s3v3n_

I'm on my way to Microcenter to buy two of these replacing my stock coolers in my two rigs.

Impressive reviews on this product.


----------



## ryaan

Ive had mine in for just over a year now, and i opened my pc up the other day to clean it - it was really dusty. This was pretty easy to get dust off of, it wasnt bad at all and i was surprised.


----------



## chinesethunda

stomii added you. yeah i didnt see too much of a difference, but a little upgrade is better than none right?


----------



## drufause

Sorry if this is a double post but New Egg has an un-boxing and comparison of the Hyper 212+ and the Hyper 212 Evo you might like to watch.


----------



## critical46

Getting around 30 degrees @ 4.8 on idle and around 70 on load with 2 Scythe slipstreams on the 212 +.


----------



## MINE

Hi is adding two line on the cooler http://benchmarkreviews.com/images/articles/Best_Thermal_Paste_Application_Methods/HDT_TIM_Application_Two_Lines.jpg , the best way to apply the thermal paste, also do i apply any to the cpu or just the thermal paste and slap it on?

2) Also do i need to fill up the hole with thermal paste or anything? Just trying to figure out the best way to apply thermal paste and install it, dont want to mess it up, but i read the two line is pretty good.


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MINE;15157069*
> Hi is adding two line on the cooler http://benchmarkreviews.com/images/articles/Best_Thermal_Paste_Application_Methods/HDT_TIM_Application_Two_Lines.jpg , the best way to apply the thermal paste, also do i apply any to the cpu or just the thermal paste and slap it on?
> 
> 2) Also do i need to fill up the hole with thermal paste or anything? Just trying to figure out the best way to apply thermal paste and install it, dont want to mess it up, but i read the two line is pretty good.


3 lines generally work best as the 212 has 4 heatpipes
none on the cpu


----------



## iSpark

Just received my 212 Plus today. Waiting on the second fan now.
Can I be in the club?


----------



## chinesethunda

added you, nice beer in the background lol


----------



## iSpark

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


added you, nice beer in the background lol


Lol thanks! I either have that or Coors.









And thanks for adding me.









Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk


----------



## chinesethunda

Man screw yall who drink lol. I'm allergic to alcohol :-( but putting them in push pull is best

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## iSpark

Hah
I can't drink very many beers, it gives me headaches.


----------



## Prpntblr95

I'm only 16 so.... I only like Mikes Hard Lemonade

I'll have pics up of mine when I get home. Too tired last night to upload them but I had to take my sidepanel fan off to get the side panel on but idc my idle temp is 7*C according to Coretemp


----------



## MrHyde

Got mine two days ago. Full load went from 45c to 25c









I couldn't be happier with my CoolerMaster 212.

**and I love Busch Beer, since we seem to be talking about it.


----------



## chinesethunda

haha roomies drank all my budweiser >_<

yeah the 212+ is still one of the better ones for the price. I guess when the EVO drops to this price and the 212+ dies out we should change the name?


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHyde;15175086*
> Got mine two days ago. Full load went from 45c to 25c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't be happier with my CoolerMaster 212.
> 
> **and I love Busch Beer, since we seem to be talking about it.


Quote:


> Regor OC'ed to 3.6*m*[email protected]


thats quite the oc


----------



## matrix2000x2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15176412*
> haha roomies drank all my budweiser >_<
> 
> yeah the 212+ is still one of the better ones for the price. I guess when the EVO drops to this price and the 212+ dies out we should change the name?


Nasties... I'd rather drink piss than Budweiser.


----------



## chinesethunda

lol to each his own i guess, so should we include the evo in this club?


----------



## hometoast

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


nice, beer in the background lol


Fixed. You forgot the comma.









my beer:









(sorry OT)

And too keep on topic:

My 2500k is oc'd to about 4.3Ghz. Between changes in ambient, I can't even notice the difference in temp with this sink on it.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15179817*
> lol to each his own i guess, so should we include the evo in this club?


Yes, as long as the Evo continues the spirit of the 212+ and if it replaces it also. Otherwise this club would probably die after a while.

So if the Evo provides similar performance at similar/same price then yep, add it right in.


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better;15188721*
> Yes, as long as the Evo continues the spirit of the 212+ and if it replaces it also. Otherwise this club would probably die after a while.
> 
> So if the Evo provides similar performance at similar/same price then yep, add it right in.


I couldn't agree more


----------



## B0R1K

Add Me... Really Like my 212+

thinking of adding second Fan, does it add much more noise?


----------



## Prpntblr95

What are everyone's idle temps with this cooler? According to Coretemp mine is 7*c


----------



## Ellis

Mine are about 28-37C. Not that idle temps really matter.


----------



## XReflection

Add me please







. I've had my cooler for a good month or so. compared to my old Arctic Cooling 64 Pro or whatever it was called, the 212+ is awesome. I have a push pull config, but its a little loud, could be because my one fan is connected to a 3pin instead of a 4pin connection. I have a Y-adapter on the way.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XReflection;15191315*
> Add me please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've had my cooler for a good month or so. compared to my old Arctic Cooling 64 Pro or whatever it was called, the 212+ is awesome. I have a push pull config, but its a little loud, could be because my one fan is connected to a 3pin instead of a 4pin connection. I have a Y-adapter on the way.


Ha, yes, I went from a Freezer 7 Pro to this cooler and it was awesome.

If you're running a Blademaster on a 3-pin then it'll run at 100% the whole time, which would be horribly loud. I had that for a day or two when PWM control broke on my old motherboard, so I had to use some inferior fan until I got my new motherboard many months later.


----------



## chinesethunda

B0R1K, XReflection added you two, mine idles around 35~ but my room is really hot


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15195476*
> B0R1K, XReflection added you two, mine idles around 35~ but my room is really hot


Idk what the hell is wrong with mine. I'm getting he same readings on AMD's OverDrive as I am on CoreTemp


----------



## Miz3r

ADD ME
















[/URL] Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## Thanos1972

Add me please...









and please do not tell anything for the cable management


----------



## Boyd

(I AM ALREADY A MEMBER) just late pic posts








I promissed that I will share a few pictures of my cooler once I get my hardware installed. and here it is
















By boyd1991 at 2011-10-07








By boyd1991 at 2011-10-07








By boyd1991 at 2011-10-07








By boyd1991 at 2011-10-07








By boyd1991 at 2011-10-07








By boyd1991 at 2011-10-07


----------



## *AcidBath*

The Hyper 212+ was the only decent HSF I could find back in 10/2009 to fit my new 1156 i7 860 build; back then very few HFS kits fit a 1156. The second fan, other than make more noise, does very little beyond adding better case airflow (which is worth it IMO). Both fans are connected to the same PWM header via a PWM splitter cable.

I'm seriously considering getting a Hyper 212 Evo with its improved base and fan, plus it'll fit the existing mount. I really hate the 212+ heavily slotted contact surface (try replacing the TIM)!

BTW, this is my second attempt to join the club, my first got lost in the noise.


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## iTzSenoko

I just bought the Cooler Master 212 Evo, using push/pull method and im idling at 33C, and when gaming at around 42C O_O, used the thermal included in the box, the fan it came with and an Antec fan I had laying around. 10C-15C lower compared to my 6 year old Thermaltake Golden Orb II at idle and gaming its AMAZING. Add as a member plz =].


----------



## chinesethunda

not bad, looks nice, added


----------



## Thanos1972

I do not see my name on the members list.one page back mate.


----------



## chinesethunda

okay, i added you. sorry about that


----------



## Prpntblr95

I'll have better pics in the next day or so


----------



## chinesethunda

serious lol at your mobo lol. thats so tiny. added


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15230855*
> serious lol at your mobo lol. thats so tiny. added


Lol yes I know. I'm gonna get a new mb soon. I was just trying to build a decent computer for a decent price but I've upgraded a few things and the mother board is lacking a upgrade.

Edit: My names on the list twice now


----------



## Nipaa~

I bought a Hyper 212+ yesterday, I am using a Nexus Real Silent Fan instead of the stock fan, since the stock fan sounded like an airplane. My i5 2500k @ 4Ghz idles around 27 degrees celcius and the load (prime95) temperature is around 48 degrees celcius. I am using the thermal paste that came with it.

















If the images require my forum name on it, please tell me, I'll make new pictures with a piece of paper with my name on it.

Could you add me to the club?


----------



## chinesethunda

added you


----------



## Nipaa~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15236926*
> added you


Thank you


----------



## pel

Hyper 212+ is 120 x 79,7 x 158,5mm, my case have a CPU cooler height of 160 mm, so only 1.5mm should be ok or i should think about another ?


----------



## chinesethunda

it should be just fine, i had the same case as you before and it fit


----------



## Rebelord

Have a question, I notice some of you guys are running 1090/1100t with the 212+ at 4Ghz+. What fans are you using? Because I have 2 Cooler Master fans on P/P setup, and it struggles to keep my 1090t cool past 3.8Ghz. If I go 3.9+ I start hitting 52* and higher on load.


----------



## chinesethunda

whats the temp limit on the amd chips? i know the voltages can go higher i think but is the temps relatively the same as intel chips?


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15255422*
> whats the temp limit on the amd chips? i know the voltages can go higher i think but is the temps relatively the same as intel chips?


You dont want to be 55+ on load.
So, general rule is to stay ~50 or below on load.


----------



## chinesethunda

o okay, thats pretty low. i guess amd chips are just cooler. only thing i could suggest is reseat the heat sink and make sure its on tight


----------



## Prpntblr95

AMD Max Temp's


----------



## chinesethunda

interesting, well i guess how to help him stay under that temp? like i suggested before maybe a reseating?


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda;15256778*
> o okay, thats pretty low. i guess amd chips are just cooler. only thing i could suggest is reseat the heat sink and make sure its on tight


^this. and his xfire maybe adding heat inside the system. may have to look at case fans to help move air out of the case. it might just be swirling around inside. what is the system temp?


----------



## pel

Maybe where you live is just too hot or with the antec300 you can guide the cooler towards upper or back side of the case.


----------



## Rebelord

Ok I read your guys posts. I'll answer best I can on my phone here.
Case is the antec 300. Top fan is a black tri cool. Rear exhaust is black tri cool as well. The front and side fans are 3 scythe 120 ~30cfm fans. My ambients where the comp is avg ~80 F at the moment. CPU idle is 27 C. NB stays ~40 constant. My cards are reference launch 4890. Exhaust out the back. With the side fan air gets moved pretty good. Also remember my case the Psu is installed with the fan facing up. Sucking out more air. But very minuscule in this sense.
The cooler is running 2 default 212+ fans in p/p. But on headers on mb running at max ~2k Rpms. Have fan management off on board.
As for cable management. It's pretty good for the case. Everything is hidden other than what needs to poke out to plug in. Which was tuff considering the UD7 is almost a eAtx mb.
HDD are installed in lowest position in HDD cage.
Hope this helps.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Rebelord

Anyone? Well, ordered up some Yate Loons anyways. they'll be here in a week. should solve any "fan" issues. heh


----------



## wongwarren

I finally got the time to get down and dirty. Did some testing today. With an ambient of 22C, my Hyper 212 Plus is able to keep my E5300 at 3.84 GHz with a Vcore of 1.444 at 38C in idle and 65C under load.


----------



## chinesethunda

thats pretty good. as for rebelord, are you using the yates to replace the blademasters? i would keep them as is because they have really good static pressure


----------



## Arimis5226

Okay, so I'm wondering what gives with my hyper 212+. I'm running an i7 2600k (sig rig), with hyper 212+ push/pull setup. I wanted to see if anyone else had temps at stock 3.4ghz with P95 blend 12 hours+. I ran blend over night last night with 3.4ghz to get a reference, and my highest core temp (realtemp) was 61C with an ambient temp of 24C. Is this normal/average? My case has good air flow, but I'm hitting a temp wall at 4.5ghz overclock. I've reseated the cooler 3 times, applied TIM the correct way (about 3rd of the length of the pipe, in the space between each pipe). Does anyone else have any suggestions besides "go watercooling"?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Arimis5226*


Okay, so I'm wondering what gives with my hyper 212+. I'm running an i7 2600k (sig rig), with hyper 212+ push/pull setup. I wanted to see if anyone else had temps at stock 3.4ghz with P95 blend 12 hours+. I ran blend over night last night with 3.4ghz to get a reference, and my highest core temp (realtemp) was 61C with an ambient temp of 24C. Is this normal/average? My case has good air flow, but I'm hitting a temp wall at 4.5ghz overclock. I've reseated the cooler 3 times, applied TIM the correct way (about 3rd of the length of the pipe, in the space between each pipe). Does anyone else have any suggestions besides "go watercooling"?


I'd say that's perfectly normal seeing that the 2600K has HT.
Quote:



Originally Posted by *wongwarren*


I finally got the time to get down and dirty. Did some testing today. With an ambient of 22C, my Hyper 212 Plus is able to keep my E5300 at 3.84 GHz with a Vcore of 1.444 at 38C in idle and 65C under load.


Oops, it's an E5200, not 5300.


----------



## mikeyzelda

push-pull config, i love this thing







, i only got 3 fans in my case, front one (intake), top (exhaust) the 2 of them came with the case HAF 922 and the one in the back of the case (exhaust), i getting good temps with just those fans but i want more







, was thinking about some Scythe SY1225SL12H 1600 rpm or Yate Loons D12SH-12 what do you guys think?, Scythe better performance or Yate Loons because of the inexpesive?, sound is not an issue btw, but i am rather cheap


----------



## ja3s

After seeing this thread, it makes me wonder if I should have never gave up on my Hyper 212. I didn't know the optimal way to apply the TIM and just went the traditional way. Kinda want to bust it out again just to test it.

Hope I'm not out of line, since I'm not currently using the cooler, but still own it. But, here's a picture of it installed in my rig.










I wasn't aware that the stock fan was that good, so I used 2 SilenX 14db 72cfm fans in push/pull. I had great idle temps in the low 30c across all 4 cores. Load temps got too high at 1.350v so I had to replace it.


----------



## Tikerz

I might join the club at this price...

http://www.frys.com/product/5971334


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tikerz;15307151*
> I might join the club at this price...
> 
> http://www.frys.com/product/5971334


That's a very nice price. If you can pick it up in store even better.


----------



## chinesethunda

id say get one


----------



## iTzSenoko

Wow thats $5 cheaper then 2 weeks ago ***... Why did I buy the Evo for $35 lol?

What are some good/popular fans for a push/pull?


----------



## chinesethunda

blademaster always


----------



## DF is BUSY

count me in


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iTzSenoko;15310081*
> Wow thats $5 cheaper then 2 weeks ago ***... Why did I buy the Evo for $35 lol?
> 
> What are some good/popular fans for a push/pull?


Popular fans for push pull = Scythe GT AP-15.
Good fans for push pull on this heat sink = Blademaster.
To be honest though, you won't see much of a difference between between push pull vs push on this particular heat sink. At the very most just 1C difference.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;15319308*
> Popular fans for push pull = Scythe GT AP-15.
> Good fans for push pull on this heat sink = Blademaster.
> To be honest though, you won't see much of a difference between between push pull vs push on this particular heat sink. At the very most just 1C difference.


ya, my blademasters arent much difference in P/P vs just push. Yate Loon HS get here next week though. Gonna try them.


----------



## oomalikoo

Im ghost riding the heatsink yall


----------



## Leito360

I bought the Hyper 212+ today, and a couple of minutes ago I noticed that the 212 EVO exists... Should I slash my wrists?


----------



## Nipaa~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leito360;15327411*
> I bought the Hyper 212+ today, and a couple of minutes ago I noticed that the 212 EVO exists... Should I slash my wrists?


Nah, the only two differences are as far as I know that it's more silent and the contact between the IHS from the CPU and the heatpipes:







(Hyper 212+)







(Hyper 212 Evo)


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Greetings all ...

I am looking for some information ...

I just ordered my new tower ... Raven 02-E White and realized that my soon to be delivered Hyper 212+ will now be in a horizontal position which is bad for the blademaster fan that it comes with (it's sleeve bearing) ...

Will the CM Excalibur fan fit on this cooler ?? ... how will it perform ?? ...


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain;15328438*
> Greetings all ...
> 
> I am looking for some information ...
> 
> I just ordered my new tower ... Raven 02-E White and realized that my soon to be delivered Hyper 212+ will now be in a horizontal position which is bad for the blademaster fan that it comes with (it's sleeve bearing) ...
> 
> Will the CM Excalibur fan fit on this cooler ?? ... how will it perform ?? ...


The Excalibur fan will fit on it. It performs not as good as the Blademaster though. But why do you say that horizontal position is bad for the Blademaster?? On what do you base this statement?? I've been running it since I bought this cooler in horizontal position without any problems.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;15328833*
> But why do you say that horizontal position is bad for the Blademaster?? On what do you base this statement??


I have read many forums and reviews stating that sleeve bearing fans do not perform as well or last as long when mounted in the horizontal position as that type of bearing has axis load problems in that config ...

do u have your hyper fan blowing towards the top extraction fan ?? ... do u have pics ??


----------



## pel

I got mine yday, temps went from 62+ to 53, no serious test or overlock yet, ill try to get some pic tomorrow.

chinesethunda do you remember if you can do some decent cable management with the Elite 311 there isn`t much space left on the back, atm i only got the cable from the case.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*


I have read many forums and reviews stating that sleeve bearing fans do not perform as well or last as long when mounted in the horizontal position as that type of bearing has axis load problems in that config ...

do u have your hyper fan blowing towards the top extraction fan ?? ... do u have pics ??


Yes I have the fan blowing towards the top exhaust fan. I'll show pictures when I get home from college.


----------



## chinesethunda

good, i was wondering the same thing


----------



## consume

Just ordered my 212, should be here tomorrow. Can I join the club, even though it's an EVO?


----------



## Ghost23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pel;15330784*
> I got mine yday, temps went from 62+ to 53, no serious test or overlock yet, ill try to get some pic tomorrow.
> 
> chinesethunda do you remember if you can do some decent cable management with the Elite 311 there isn`t much space left on the back, atm i only got the cable from the case.


This seems really high for no overclocking? I'm running at 3.9 ghz atm and idles at 35c which, reapplying the TIM a better way will hopefully drop 1-2c.


----------



## chinesethunda

consume i added you.

pel, i don't think i had much of any cable management when i had that case, it was pretty horrific actually =/


----------



## MGF Derp

Here is mine.


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*


I have read many forums and reviews stating that sleeve bearing fans do not perform as well or last as long when mounted in the horizontal position as that type of bearing has axis load problems in that config ...

do u have your hyper fan blowing towards the top extraction fan ?? ... do u have pics ??


My brother and a roommate of mine both run horizontal with the blademaster and neither of them have had a problem. My brother has been using that setup since May.


----------



## chinesethunda

MGF Derp added


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Ok that is good 2 hear then ... It really is a pity that the cable isn't sleeved though ...

well ... i shall keep the hyper ...


----------



## chinesethunda

Meh sleeved doesn't matter all that much to me

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## Emissary of Pain

I am going for a white blue and black theme ... those wires look really trashy considering how wonderful that fan works ... it was a major oversight by CM in my opinion ...


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Another quick question ... what is the best way 2 apply the thermal paste ?? ... i have read a lot of forums where ppl say they battle ...


----------



## Ghost23

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain*


Another quick question ... what is the best way 2 apply the thermal paste ?? ... i have read a lot of forums where ppl say they battle ...


The general rule of thumb for 212+'s I've read is two lines down each side of the base, sometimes with a dot in the middle.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghost23;15345947*
> The general rule of thumb for 212+'s I've read is two lines down each side of the base, sometimes with a dot in the middle.


Actually it's three lines along the aluminum lines at the base, because the 212 Plus has four heatpipes.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;15346681*
> Actually it's three lines along the aluminum lines at the base, because the 212 Plus has four heatpipes.


this


----------



## djdisturbed

Just orded mine for my first build after having several people recommend it over the more exp. ones I was looking at!


----------



## pel

bad quality but well add my to club if possible


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren;15346681*
> Actually it's three lines along the aluminum lines at the base, because the 212 Plus has four heatpipes.


Awesome ... thanks ... i shall do that ... will i have 2 work the thermal paste into the gaps between the HS and the HP


----------



## experience333

Subbed. Will add pictures when I get home so I can get in









EDIT: Done


----------



## iTzSenoko

I felt like my first photo of my Cooler Master 212 Evo and my computer was pretty ugly when I first installed it. My 2x Cooler Master R4 Sickle flows came in today so thought I'd take some new pics.


----------



## asc3nsion

Having owned a Hyper 212+ for my AMD pII build in the past, bought a Hyper 212 Evo for new i5 2500k build. Is 45c temp in bios normal? It was much lower on my pII.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asc3nsion;15375668*
> Having owned a Hyper 212+ for my AMD pII build in the past, bought a Hyper 212 Evo for new i5 2500k build. Is 45c temp in bios normal? It was much lower on my pII.


That Intel chip will run hotter. However, also check what other ppl are getting for temps in the Intel forums, just search 212+ and see whats up.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asc3nsion;15375668*
> Having owned a Hyper 212+ for my AMD pII build in the past, bought a Hyper 212 Evo for new i5 2500k build. Is 45c temp in bios normal? It was much lower on my pII.


Never trust BIOS temperatures. Some BIOS show it lower, some higher. You should really boot into Windows to check.


----------



## mikupoiss

My BIOS is showing constant 45-47C no matter what.
Windows shows around 34-37C, so do probes.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikupoiss;15378274*
> My BIOS is showing constant 45-47C no matter what.
> Windows shows around 34-37C, so do probes.


Just don't care what the BIOS says.


----------



## mikupoiss

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wongwarren*


Just don't care what the BIOS says.










That was exactly my point. I forget to type something while at work


----------



## Rebelord

Quick little update to my past posts. So even after I decked out my case full of Yate Loon 120mm HS fans, and 2 Yate Loons in P/P on the 212+, still get hot for 4Ghz+ OC on my 1090t. Looks like I'll just have to abandon this cooler for something else. Oh my.


----------



## Unlimate

MY Room temperature is 20C
CPU 30C CORE1 37 CORE2 29 CORE3 36 CORE4 37

Is it good temperatures or it can be lower?


----------



## chinesethunda

if thats idle then its okay, was about what mine is, your room is hot... jeebus


----------



## Prpntblr95

My load temp is around 20-23* 
Idle is 7-9*


----------



## chinesethunda

.... thats rediculously low. if thats in C then yes thats good


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


.... thats rediculously low. if thats in C then yes thats good


If its in F then I respect you for living in that cold of a room.


----------



## chinesethunda

that is true, i wasn't thinking too hard lol, thats still pretty cold though, are you sure you are using the 212+? your ambients must be really low then


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*


if thats idle then its okay, was about what mine is, your room is hot... jeebus


20C isn't hot for room temperature, generally when "room temperature" is used it refers to around 23-24C.


----------



## DF is BUSY

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Prpntblr95*


My load temp is around 20-23* 
Idle is 7-9*


that is insanely lol im jealous


----------



## Zeek

Just found this club lol add meh? CPU is at 4ghz under 100% load is 54C oh and yes that is electric tape on the 212+. It covers the gap made on top by the rubber spacers and actually dropped temp 2C lol


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeek;15403833*
> Just found this club lol add meh? CPU is at 4ghz under 100% load is 54C oh and yes that is electric tape on the 212+. It covers the gap made on top by the rubber spacers and actually dropped temp 2C lol


Gives me the thought that someone should make a top shroud for the 212, just like the V6


----------



## Dorianime

I want to know what Temps an intel core 2 quad gets? I had a tough time seeing that info here lol


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dorianime*


I want to know what Temps an intel core 2 quad gets? I had a tough time seeing that info here lol


http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...-review-9.html


----------



## Wabbit16

Considering a 2nd Blademaster for my cooler *thinking*

Actually I haven't posted here in ages...too many hobbies!


----------



## Schwarz

Quick reminder: clean cpu cooler every now and then!

Removed fan to find this.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*


Considering a 2nd Blademaster for my cooler *thinking*

Actually I haven't posted here in ages...too many hobbies!










You'll only see a 1C difference at the very most. Trust me, I've tried this.


----------



## chinesethunda

if you look at the testing I did you will see there is not much difference how you have it set up

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## Wabbit16

Okay, so the general consensus is that it doesn't matter (much) if I run just a push or a push/pull config.

Thanks for the info


----------



## chinesethunda

It just looks cool and feels like its cooler but in reality it's no big deal

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## ishimura2446

Can I join? I just received mine in the mail. Do you need pics?


----------



## tonus

New hyper 212 evo:


----------



## chinesethunda

ishimura2446 added you and nice find tonus


----------



## Ellis

Ishimura, have you visited the Ishimura?


----------



## ishimura2446

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;15461155*
> Ishimura, have you visited the Ishimura?


The USG Ishimura? Built in 2446 as a planet cracking vessel used to mine ore from planets? Why yes I have visited it...might I add my ipod's name is Isaac Clarke lol


----------



## Ellis

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ishimura2446*


The USG Ishimura? Built in 2446 as a planet cracking vessel used to mine ore from planets? Why yes I have visited it...might I add my ipod's name is Isaac Clarke lol










Yep, that's the one. Before or after the events of Dead Space? Hopefully for your sanity's sake, before.


----------



## Epyon415

Hello all,

I'm sure this has been asked in this thread, but has anyone swapped out the stock fan on this HSF? I was contemplating ordering a Gentle Typhoon hoping it will run quieter and still perform well.

This HSF is just sick sick sick!

cheers


----------



## chinesethunda

you can, but you won't see that much of a difference, and imo the stock fan isnt that super loud. I can just barely hear 4 of them running at 1800rpm


----------



## Epyon415

Thank chinese, likely I am hearing just the case fans. +rep


----------



## arredondo

I'm going to attach a 212+ to a new ASRock Ex3 Gen3 Z68 mobo this weekend (Antec 300 case, 2500K CPU). Any unique issues to look out for other than what's written into the first post of this thread when I do it?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Epyon415*


Hello all,

I'm sure this has been asked in this thread, but has anyone swapped out the stock fan on this HSF? I was contemplating ordering a Gentle Typhoon hoping it will run quieter and still perform well.

This HSF is just sick sick sick!

cheers


Pointless. The stock fan on this thing is just too wonderful.


----------



## chinesethunda

lol i have 4 of them and 2 more on the way


----------



## Zackcy

All in one mounting solution










-_-


----------



## sweffymo

Push harder.


----------



## billcox0625

Just bought the new CM Hyper 212 Evo. I am seeing better temps between 5 -10 C under load than with the regular 212+. Anyone else seeing that kind of improvement? I think I have become a cpu cooler junkie because I have 4 of them in my closet I am not using anymore.


----------



## ffejrxx

unscrew the opposite corner one, and put it in by about 1-2 turns, then start the last one again


----------



## pel

And check that they are on the right position, for amd was in the middle i think.


----------



## Heazy

Add me to the club!


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## Epyon415

Add me too. Can post pics if necessary.


----------



## Epyon415

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arredondo*


I'm going to attach a 212+ to a new ASRock Ex3 Gen3 Z68 mobo this weekend (Antec 300 case, 2500K CPU). Any unique issues to look out for other than what's written into the first post of this thread when I do it?


I suggest doing a dry run before installing. Install CPU in mobo, attach backplate and mounting screws, then seat 212+ and try to screw it down. This helped me to orient the bracket and get an idea of how tight I needed to screw everything down. After the test then all TIM (3 lines between the copper pipes imo) and seat.


----------



## chinesethunda

Epyon415 added


----------



## KamalS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric;13748766*
> I'm building a new rig soon and I decided to get a Corsair A70 to replace my Hyper 212 (just to try it out). I'm guessing I should get slightly better performance? Anybody made this switch?


I am in the same dilemma - which one if both at same price?


----------



## chinesethunda

A70


----------



## trumpet-205

A70 if you can get it around 212 price tag. It is bigger so make sure it can fit inside your case.


----------



## ltg2227

would this good for a gaming rig? not really planning to OC! newegg has a sale on this today! if i can get another fan for P/P on sale should I or just save the money?


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltg2227;15547737*
> would this good for a gaming rig? not really planning to OC! newegg has a sale on this today! if i can get another fan for P/P on sale should I or just save the money?


Yeah, it's a good heatsink for most purposes unless you want to overclock a pretty large amount.

Not really any point getting a second fan for push-pull unless you want to squeeze every last bit of performance out of it, which you don't really need to if you'll be running stock speeds.


----------



## ltg2227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis;15548023*
> Yeah, it's a good heatsink for most purposes unless you want to overclock a pretty large amount.
> 
> Not really any point getting a second fan for push-pull unless you want to squeeze every last bit of performance out of it, which you don't really need to if you'll be running stock speeds.


Thanks bro, yea after some reading i see that P/P really doesn't give that much more cooling. I'll save my cash for something else


----------



## thelamacmdr

I just applied AS5 with this cooler today and find that one of my cores is running about 5-10 C hotter than my other cores (larger difference is on idle while smaller difference occurs under load like Prime95). Would this be me mucking up applying the tim or possibly the curing time? Cause before I used the tim that came with this cooler but found that most got better performance out of the AS5 (may be minimal but I like keep energy as low as I can with this system)


----------



## ffejrxx

its farily normal for intel temp sensors to be off, was it reading like that before?

reseat, make you use 3 lines between the heatpipes method when installing


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;15553189*
> its farily normal for intel temp sensors to be off, was it reading like that before?
> 
> reseat, make you use 3 lines between the heatpipes method when installing


AMD temp sensors are off way more than Intel's.


----------



## Matty8787

Hey! New to the boards and also wanting to join this very club


















Thanks.


----------



## chinesethunda

Matty8787
added


----------



## Matty8787

Just ran Prime95, albeit for only 10 mins.

Highest I got to was 61 degrees.

Running an i5 2500k overclocked @ 4.3ghz.

Good or bad?


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matty8787;15556220*
> Just ran Prime95, albeit for only 10 mins.
> 
> Highest I got to was 61 degrees.
> 
> Running an i5 2500k overclocked @ 4.3ghz.
> 
> Good or bad?


Not bad, not that amazing either though.

What Vcore do you need on the 2500K for 4.3GHz? My i5 runs at about 62C load most of the time with my specs from my sig.


----------



## thelamacmdr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;15553189*
> its farily normal for intel temp sensors to be off, was it reading like that before?
> 
> reseat, make you use 3 lines between the heatpipes method when installing


Yeah I used the 3 lines method but perhaps a reseat would work. Before the temps were off by 3-4 at most while on idle but we'll see, thanks for the help!


----------



## Jared2608

This might be obvious, but could you mount the cooler so that the fan faces the bottom of the case, instead of the RAM modules??


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608;15567641*
> This might be obvious, but could you mount the cooler so that the fan faces the bottom of the case, instead of the RAM modules??


the 212 with 2 fans (25mm thick) is about square
with the heatsink mounted vertical (fan blowing horizontal) you can either mount the fan as pull, or push raised slightly to clear the ram


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608;15567641*
> This might be obvious, but could you mount the cooler so that the fan faces the bottom of the case, instead of the RAM modules??


Yes you can.


----------



## chinesethunda

anyone need helps?


----------



## Barreto

Hello there! It's been 4 days since I started using the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ in push mode. I couldn't be happier with a CPU cooling system that cheap! My load temperatures won't go above 48 celsius running hours of prime95's torture tests with that crap Core 2 Duo E7400 overclocked to 3.4GHz. XD

But I was trying to figure the best way to use this cooler. I was looking around the web for other CM fans. I'm gonna use it in push/pull, but I can't decide on which fans to get.

What would be the better option? I thought of 2 Excaliburs, or simply another Blade Master, or even the R4-L2R-20CR-GP model that I can't find ANYWHERE. You guys have more time using this cooler, so I think you have some good advice for me!


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

Just wanted to know how the Evo compares 2 the 212+ ... the fan looks like a black extraflow ... which I can't see as being better ...

I want to push my 2500k as close to 4.8GHZ as possible ...


----------



## ffejrxx

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Barreto*


Hello there! It's been 4 days since I started using the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ in push mode. I couldn't be happier with a CPU cooling system that cheap! My load temperatures won't go above 48 celsius running hours of prime95's torture tests with that crap Core 2 Duo E7400 overclocked to 3.4GHz. XD

But I was trying to figure the best way to use this cooler. I was looking around the web for other CM fans. I'm gonna use it in push/pull, but I can't decide on which fans to get.

What would be the better option? I thought of 2 Excaliburs, or simply another Blade Master, or even the R4-L2R-20CR-GP model that I can't find ANYWHERE. You guys have more time using this cooler, so I think you have some good advice for me!


not many fans are better than the included blademaster fan
adding another blademaster will only help by about 1-5c
or adding a mismatched fan can hurt its preformance

if your going to take the 212+ (~$25) and add fans (~$20), you should just get a $45+50 heatsink instead
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835185168
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835209029

212+ is the best bang for the buck, but there are better if you spend a little more


----------



## Barreto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffejrxx;15621270*
> not many fans are better than the included blademaster fan
> adding another blademaster will only help by about 1-5c
> or adding a mismatched fan can hurt its preformance
> 
> if your going to take the 212+ (~$25) and add fans (~$20), you should just get a $45+50 heatsink instead
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185168
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209029
> 
> 212+ is the best bang for the buck, but there are better if you spend a little more


The problem is: I already own a Hyper 212+. No turning back now. Oh also, I'm brazilian. Prices in Brazil suck hard. =(
Fans are cheap, so it's gonna be cheaper to just add another fan.
That's why I'm asking.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barreto;15625061*
> The problem is: I already own a Hyper 212+. No turning back now. Oh also, I'm brazilian. Prices in Brazil suck hard. =(
> Fans are cheap, so it's gonna be cheaper to just add another fan.
> That's why I'm asking.


There's not much increase in performance by adding another fan in push pull. You'll only see a maximum of 2C difference. Also, the included Blademaster fan is amazing for this heat sink. But if you really want to do push pull, get two NF-P12's in push pull.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain;15619984*
> Hey all ...
> 
> Just wanted to know how the Evo compares 2 the 212+ ... the fan looks like a black extraflow ... which I can't see as being better ...
> 
> I want to push my 2500k as close to 4.8GHZ as possible ...


Why get the old one when you can get the new one?? Either one is able to cool the 2500K though.


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emissary of Pain;15619984*
> Hey all ...
> 
> Just wanted to know how the Evo compares 2 the 212+ ... the fan looks like a black extraflow ... which I can't see as being better ...
> 
> I want to push my 2500k as close to 4.8GHZ as possible ...


EVO came with a slightly better fan. It is quieter during idle and slightly nosier during full load. Heat pipes on the bottom are also packed together, making TIM application a bit easier.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

So in essence ... it is the exact same thing just slightly modified ... not worth the switch over ...

thanks all !!


----------



## chinesethunda

if you have the hyper212+ already then its not worth it, but if you don't have it yet then its worth a shot imo


----------



## rakionnite

Hi all, I'm deciding to get a 212 EVO but I have a few questions:
(Please bear with me, this is my first time getting a dedicated cooler)

1) I'm running on a ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5G41C-M LX (LGA775) mobo. Is it compatible?

2) Is it easy to install for a first-timer like me?


----------



## boogschd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakionnite*
> 
> Hi all, I'm deciding to get a 212 EVO but I have a few questions:
> (Please bear with me, this is my first time getting a dedicated cooler)
> 1) I'm running on a ASUSTeK Computer INC. P5G41C-M LX (LGA775) mobo. Is it compatible?
> 2) Is it easy to install for a first-timer like me?


yes its compatible
socket 775/1156/1366/1155

this was my first aftermarket cooler and im running it for 12 days now .. even got my i5 oc'd to like 4.4GHZ ...
only followed the instructions that came with it

so yeah .. i guess its easy


----------



## chinesethunda

boogschd added you to the club


----------



## boogschd

:rave:


----------



## bubu182

im using this cm 212+. and using 2 fan. btw, what the position and air flow recommendation for this cooler?. bottom-to-top @ front-to rear position?.


----------



## chinesethunda

put your top front fan as intake


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> put your top front fan as intake


Really? Hot air rises out the top of my case naturally, as you would expect, so surely having an intake fan there is a bit of an odd choice?


----------



## bubu182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> put your top front fan as intake


if both top front fan as air intake, how about my 212+?.. should it face to top front casing or face to the ram?


----------



## coregamer001

so i installed my cpu cooler today
and i thought it might just give a small degrees difference
i previously got temps like 44 degrees idle and 62 degrees load :O at ambient temp 30 degrees
then today i was lik :O this cooler really surprised me very much








idle temps went down to 32 degrees







and load temps max at 38(while playing fifa 12 )







:O am seriously amazed








this cooler seriously rocks







the price also so low and woaahhhh i guess this performs the same as my friends h50








and one small question.... if i add another 120mm fan how will it benifit me ? and which fan should i consider ?
here is my pic


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coregamer001*
> 
> so i installed my cpu cooler today
> and i thought it might just give a small degrees difference
> i previously got temps like 44 degrees idle and 62 degrees load :O at ambient temp 30 degrees
> then today i was lik :O this cooler really surprised me very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> idle temps went down to 32 degrees
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and load temps max at 38(while playing fifa 12 )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :O am seriously amazed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this cooler seriously rocks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the price also so low and woaahhhh i guess this performs the same as my friends h50
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and one small question.... if i add another 120mm fan how will it benifit me ? and which fan should i consider ?
> here is my pic


You won't benefit much from the second fan, 1 ~ 2 degrees at best.


----------



## chinesethunda

yeah you wont see much difference


----------



## Haee

hey guys, i'm relatively new to installations and i ran into a problem trying to install this thing in.






This video showcases my exact problem but i havent heard anyone else that had the same issue this guy has been having. hope to get a response soon thanks.

edit : Specifically the hexes holding the retention plate at the back of the motherboard becomes loosened and eventually falls off because of this problem. I've tightened the retention plate with the hex screw tightly and seemingly followed the directions but no matter how hard i try, everytime i want to take out the heat sink, the hexes holding the retention plate together falls apart.


----------



## idaWHALE

Could you describe the problem? When you are tightening the screws are the nuts spinning? It is hard to see what is happening in this video.

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk


----------



## idaWHALE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coregamer001*
> 
> and one small question.... if i add another 120mm fan how will it benifit me ?


the only real benefit from having 2 is redundancy


----------



## Haee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idaWHALE*
> 
> Could you describe the problem? When you are tightening the screws are the nuts spinning? It is hard to see what is happening in this video.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk


The nuts begin to spin as soon as i try to take out the heat sink, the actual screwing the nuts into the hex went fine. Also I didn't make the video but i came across it and it describes the same exact problem I have.

The problem specifically is that as soon as i begin to take the screws out to take out the heatsink, the nuts begin to spin and the hexes holding the retention plate begins to loosen and eventually fall completely.


----------



## Xonipher

I installed my cooler yesterday and I can't keep the 955BE from overheating. It goes past 66c in prime95 with a 3,8ghz OC at 1.475v.

I did have some trouble when mounting the cooler. First, I have 4x 2gb sticks of ram, and I had to move the fan about a centimeter up the heat sink for it to fit. Also, when securing the heat sink, the spring loaded screws wouldn't completely lineup with the nuts, even after some readjustment. The case has sufficient cooling. I have an NZXT phantom, 2x 120mm on the side, 140mm in the front and back, 2x 200mm on top. I'm using Arctic Cooling ceramique TIM.

Right now it idles at 38-40c.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xonipher*
> 
> I installed my cooler yesterday and I can't keep the 955BE from overheating. It goes past 66c in prime95 with a 3,8ghz OC at 1.475v.
> I did have some trouble when mounting the cooler. First, I have 4x 2gb sticks of ram, and I had to move the fan about a centimeter up the heat sink for it to fit. Also, when securing the heat sink, the spring loaded screws wouldn't completely lineup with the nuts, even after some readjustment. The case has sufficient cooling. I have an NZXT phantom, 2x 120mm on the side, 140mm in the front and back, 2x 200mm on top. I'm using Arctic Cooling ceramique TIM.
> Right now it idles at 38-40c.


Try reseating.


----------



## cj3waker

Finally powered on my new extremely cold "stock cooling" rig today, And I might have some of the coldest hyper 212 temps out there

In a stock 692 case









Idle - GTX 480 SLI runs crazy hot, poor mobo SLI spacing cant be fixed, but new TIM can! Using IC diamond on the CPU









linkpack - only 2 mins, but the temps dont climb much higher, Ill post again after reOCing on this new mobo


----------



## Xonipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Try reseating.


I've reseated it properly again. I made sure this time. The temps lowered about 5c but they aren't as low as I expected. Some people rarely go past 50c at 4ghz. I go past 65c at 3.8. I think I'm just unlucky and have a "bad" chip.


----------



## FREELINE57

Not sure if this is old new's but to you Hyper212+/ EVO owner's CoolerMaster is offering you a free upgrade bracket for the LGA2011 platform if and when you decide to upgrade your platform. I'm not a owner of that cooler but thought you guy's might be interested.

http://coolermaster-usa.com/landing/lga2011/


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FREELINE57*
> 
> Not sure if this is old new's but to you Hyper212+/ EVO owner's CoolerMaster is offering you a free upgrade bracket for the LGA2011 platform if and when you decide to upgrade your platform. I'm not a owner of that cooler but thought you guy's might be interested.
> http://coolermaster-usa.com/landing/lga2011/


I posted a thread on that. Here.


----------



## ja3s

Went back to my Hyper 212+ from my H100. About 5c hotter than with the H100, with a lot less noise. This is at 5GHz. Mid 60c while playing BF3.


----------



## FREELINE57

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I posted a thread on that. Here.


lol, guess i'm a day late and a dollar short. Just thought i'd be a good ocn'er.


----------



## nickt1862

Hi - I guess better late than never that's if you're still accepting new members in this "cwub".
















If so can you please add me?
















Thanks









Here's my rig that has a Hyper 212 Plus P/P on a stock speed Q6600:


----------



## chinesethunda

added, anyone else want to be added? i might have not seen cuz of this new layout, still getting used to it lol


----------



## ja3s

Add me!

Back to it's air cooled glory.


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> added, anyone else want to be added? i might have not seen cuz of this new layout, still getting used to it lol


Thanks!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s*
> 
> Add me!
> 
> Back to it's air cooled glory.


Very nice looking rig in your HAF 912 and thanks for posting it as I wanted to see how a Hyper 212 plus would look in that case - so you took my trouble of searching away.









I also have a HAF 912 and if plans stay intact I'll be transferring the mobo/Hyper 212 plus combo from the rig photo posted a few posts up above into my HAF 912 then getting a i5 2500k system build with a Hyper 212 Evo P/P in the 690 II Advanced case in exchange hopefully as it depends on the upcoming sales - who knows.


----------



## ja3s

Lol, you're welcome. I have the HAF912 Advance side window panel, too. But, I had to cut up the case for the H100, now I want something else. :[


----------



## nickt1862

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ja3s*
> 
> Lol, you're welcome. I have the HAF912 Advance side window panel, too. But, I had to cut up the case for the H100, now I want something else. :[


There's worse things/problems in life and is only a computer case.









Well if anything that case can be used as a second "mess around with" computer or such.

Luckily the HAF 912 is not an expensive case but very good for what it is.

If it weren't that I want to purchase (if it happens) an i5 2500k, mobo for it, Hyper 212 evo, then DDR3 RAM I would replace my HAF 912 as well but then thinking about it, it will only house my backup computer anyway.

But maybe a kick-butt case will go on sale that would replace my 690 II Advanced at a rediculous can't pass up price will change things.


----------



## ja3s

Yeah, it works. Holds everything I need. I don't plan to upgrade any time soon. Maybe end of next year or later.


----------



## Ellis

Think I may have posted this here before, but I'll ask anyway.

If I were to swap out the Blademaster for a single Gentle Typhoon AP-13 and have it running at stock RPM (1,150), would that be enough to support my current overclock under load? I have it set to the "silent" preset in the BIOS, so it barely increases the fan under load anyway, and I see around 60-65C, usually hovering nearer 62C.


----------



## FMullegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickt1862*


Off topic but does anyone know where to get grommets like this for the Cooler Master 690 II Advanced?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> Think I may have posted this here before, but I'll ask anyway.
> If I were to swap out the Blademaster for a single Gentle Typhoon AP-13 and have it running at stock RPM (1,150), would that be enough to support my current overclock under load? I have it set to the "silent" preset in the BIOS, so it barely increases the fan under load anyway, and I see around 60-65C, usually hovering nearer 62C.


Should be.


----------



## uniwarking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FMullegun*
> 
> Off topic but does anyone know where to get grommets like this for the Cooler Master 690 II Advanced?


It comes with the gromets buddy, great case.


----------



## uniwarking

Anyone have problems with vibrations/noise while this things is speeding up an off and on while its running? I just built my PC a week ago... I'm pretty happy with the cooling but it sounds terrible. I'm planning to RMA it and get something else.


----------



## Zeek

I swear I was in this club already lol but here mine


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uniwarking*
> 
> Anyone have problems with vibrations/noise while this things is speeding up an off and on while its running? I just built my PC a week ago... I'm pretty happy with the cooling but it sounds terrible. I'm planning to RMA it and get something else.


Nope.


----------



## mikupoiss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uniwarking*
> 
> It comes with the gromets buddy, great case.


Umm.. No it does not. Maybe it's market dependent or new batch, but I bought mine in July and it has 0 grommets.


----------



## Ellis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ellis*
> 
> Think I may have posted this here before, but I'll ask anyway.
> If I were to swap out the Blademaster for a single Gentle Typhoon AP-13 and have it running at stock RPM (1,150), would that be enough to support my current overclock under load? I have it set to the "silent" preset in the BIOS, so it barely increases the fan under load anyway, and I see around 60-65C, usually hovering nearer 62C.
> 
> 
> 
> Should be.
Click to expand...

Nice one, thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uniwarking*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FMullegun*
> 
> Off topic but does anyone know where to get grommets like this for the Cooler Master 690 II Advanced?
> 
> 
> 
> It comes with the gromets buddy, great case.
Click to expand...

Mine doesn't.









Then again, mine is just the "Lite" version rather than the "Advanced" - without the hard drive bay on the top, and the GPU cooler bracket, amongst other things. But I think not all Advanced models come with grommets - seems like only some of them do. Probably region dependent or something.


----------



## uniwarking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikupoiss*
> 
> Umm.. No it does not. Maybe it's market dependent or new batch, but I bought mine in July and it has 0 grommets.


Interesting. Just got mine last week, came with them.


----------



## Supper

hi guys, im new to this club...

got my new rig set up a month ago, so i thought why not join this club since i have a 212+

here is my rig pic, what do you think?


----------



## Xonipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supper*
> 
> hi guys, im new to this club...
> got my new rig set up a month ago, so i thought why not join this club since i have a 212+
> here is my rig pic, what do you think?


Nice!







I have the white/black case. But it's no where near as lit up as yours.


----------



## FMullegun

Just replaced a AMD Athlon X2 4200+ with a Phenom II X4 830. I used my original Athlon X2 cooler and ran Prime95. Temps rose steadily until I stopped it at 60C after just a couple minutes. Installed the CM Hyper 212+ and ran prime95 for 20 minutes and it never went over 38C.

The stock Athlon and Phenom cooler are almost identical. Pretty incredible difference.


----------



## Xonipher

My 970BE at 4.1ghz 1.488v Idles at 27c, 50c on prime95. I hope in seeing better results when termal paste cures+winter. Add me to the list!


----------



## SharpShoot3r07

I am considering buying this heatsink for my i5 2500k but I have a few questions.
1) Does the fan have any LED lights on it? If so what color?
2) If it doesn't have lights I would like to buy a fan that does have a blue LED light, any ideas what one to buy?


----------



## Azuredragon1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> I am considering buying this heatsink for my i5 2500k but I have a few questions.
> 1) Does the fan have any LED lights on it? If so what color?
> 2) If it doesn't have lights I would like to buy a fan that does have a blue LED light, any ideas what one to buy?


the fan doesn't have LEDs, for your second Question i don't know any fans with Blue Leds that will be a good fit.


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> I am considering buying this heatsink for my i5 2500k but I have a few questions.
> 1) Does the fan have any LED lights on it? If so what color?
> 2) If it doesn't have lights I would like to buy a fan that does have a blue LED light, any ideas what one to buy?


i recommend this . . .

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103060

others might know something better. i used one but red and works great.


----------



## SharpShoot3r07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdr09*
> 
> i recommend this . . .
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103060
> others might know something better. i used one but red and works great.


Ok this may be dumb but does that fan push the air out or pull the air in, or does it depend on the way you put it on? The airflow should be shooting out the back correct?

EDIT
Looks like I'm gonna go with the 212 EVO


----------



## rdr09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> Ok this may be dumb but does that fan push the air out or pull the air in, or does it depend on the way you put it on? The airflow should be shooting out the back correct?


if you i get your question correctly, you want to know how to position the fan(s) on the cooler. see attached.

fan.png 16k .png file


basically there are three ways and the fans are marked how air flows. evo or plus does not matter much they are basically the same.

btw, there are no dumb questions i was told here in ocn.


----------



## FMullegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> I am considering buying this heatsink for my i5 2500k but I have a few questions.
> 1) Does the fan have any LED lights on it? If so what color?
> 2) If it doesn't have lights I would like to buy a fan that does have a blue LED light, any ideas what one to buy?


If you want to replace the fan, I suggest you stay with a PWM fan so the computer can control the fan speed.

This is a good PWM fan with blue LED's.

http://www.directron.com/fnfw12bpl18.html

If you don't care about increased noise even when your CPU doesn't need it, your options are more open to cheaper fans.

Personally I prefer quiet operation with automated increase in cooling when I need it.


----------



## SharpShoot3r07

One problem. I read a review on newegg for the 212 EVO and it said it wont fit on a Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard. I have an Asus P8P67 Pro motherboard








So does that mean it wont fit on my board?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131771&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-

I'm thinking it would hit here on the MOBO


----------



## Supper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> One problem. I read a review on newegg for the 212 EVO and it said it wont fit on a Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard. I have an Asus P8P67 Pro motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So does that mean it wont fit on my board?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131771&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-
> 
> I'm thinking it would hit here on the MOBO


dont worry it will fit... here's proof


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> I am considering buying this heatsink for my i5 2500k but I have a few questions.
> 1) Does the fan have any LED lights on it? If so what color?
> 2) If it doesn't have lights I would like to buy a fan that does have a blue LED light, any ideas what one to buy?


performance wise, stick with the fan it comes with and add another for push pull setup... drops the temp severely...
design wise, use either CM sickleflow or BC120 but high in temp...
my advice, go with performance since LED doesnt add performance but sucks the juice away...


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supper*
> 
> dont worry it will fit... here's proof
> 
> performance wise, stick with the fan it comes with and add another for push pull setup... drops the temp severely...
> design wise, use either CM sickleflow or BC120 but high in temp...
> my advice, go with performance since LED doesnt add performance but sucks the juice away...


Severely?? You obviously didn't do your homework bro. Push pull on this heat sink will only give at best a 2 degrees Celcius difference.


----------



## Supper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Severely?? You obviously didn't do your homework bro. Push pull on this heat sink will only give at best a 2 degrees Celcius difference.


well if you have good airflow inside the case, why not... besides i ran some test on it, stock cooler > 50c load, hyper 212 < 40c load... about 10c different...
as long as you have good airflow inside the case...


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supper*
> 
> well if you have good airflow inside the case, why not... besides i ran some test on it, stock cooler > 50c load, hyper 212 < 40c load... about 10c different...
> as long as you have good airflow inside the case...


I was testing it on an open test bench. Severely?? Think again.


----------



## jdip

Does anyone's fan make an intermittent rattling noise? It's not extremely obnoxious but I notice it when it's quiet and it's very aggravating.

I'm not entirely sure that it's the 212+ though, it might be my graphics card. It's hard to pin point.


----------



## SharpShoot3r07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supper*
> 
> dont worry it will fit... here's proof
> 
> performance wise, stick with the fan it comes with and add another for push pull setup... drops the temp severely...
> design wise, use either CM sickleflow or BC120 but high in temp...
> my advice, go with performance since LED doesnt add performance but sucks the juice away...


WOW! Thanks so much.


----------



## uniwarking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> Does anyone's fan make an intermittent rattling noise? It's not extremely obnoxious but I notice it when it's quiet and it's very aggravating.
> I'm not entirely sure that it's the 212+ though, it might be my graphics card. It's hard to pin point.


Yes, mine does this, look a few posts back. I copied a vid from youtube, seem we're not alone.. I just rma'd mine, getting a h100 instead ($50 off currently at newegg).


----------



## uniwarking

I can validate this will indeed fit the Asus p8p67 boards.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uniwarking*
> 
> Yes, mine does this, look a few posts back. I copied a vid from youtube, seem we're not alone.. I just rma'd mine, getting a h100 instead ($50 off currently at newegg).


Link to said video please? Went back a few pages, didn't find anything..

edit: nvm I found it in your post history. It was in another thread









edit #2: Yes this is the problem I have! It's seemingly small but holy crap it's been driving me up the wall. How did you go about starting your RMA for it? +Rep.


----------



## uniwarking

Well, I just got it a week ago from newegg... so I started a rma through their online chat. The paid return shipping and issued a refund. Cooler was pretty good, just got a bad one


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uniwarking*
> 
> Well, I just got it a week ago from newegg... so I started a rma through their online chat. The paid return shipping and issued a refund. Cooler was pretty good, just got a bad one


Ah ok thanks for the info.

So you're getting an H60 instead? You didn't want to try another Hyper 212+?


----------



## chrisys93

Why not rename this club to Hyper 212 Plus/Evo Club? I have an evo so technically I cant join


----------



## uniwarking

I got the H100 actually, becuase it was super cheap on black Friday... also... as good as the hyper was I wanted to see if I could cool and OC my sandy a bit further.


----------



## FMullegun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SharpShoot3r07*
> 
> One problem. I read a review on newegg for the 212 EVO and it said it wont fit on a Asus P8Z68-V Pro motherboard. I have an Asus P8P67 Pro motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So does that mean it wont fit on my board?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131771&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-
> I'm thinking it would hit here on the MOBO
> hL


Where did you read that review? I have the Asus P8Z68-V (non-Pro) and mine fits fine. That is weird.


----------



## dartuil

hello
what is wrong with your hyper 212+ men?
should i get Zalman cnps 10x performa instead?


----------



## uniwarking

The hyper is a solid cooler at a very good price. I just got a "dud" that makes a bit more noice/vibration than i'd like.


----------



## dartuil

i see some of u change its not big problem i hope im looking for a new cpu cooler
didnt get the zalman yet they are same price


----------



## afkingjay

I just bought the hyper 212 evo for my new build. Wanted to join.
was water cooled by coolit systems but due to leaked cooler had to build a new system.

A few questions

1) After installation i noticed the heat sink moves back and forth a little. is this normal
2) *** is this center screw do??? i cant seem to tighten it down
3) what is a good temp range for a i5 2500k 3.3 o.c to a 4.3 idle and load range?

Pics to follow


----------



## Azuredragon1

1.yes it's normal
2.center screw as the one on heatsink? if so then that's for the bracket
3not sure


----------



## TheOddOne

I installed my Hyper 212+ vertically with the fan pointing downward towards my GPU. I'm planning on doing a push/pull fan config, should I re-seat my heat sink horizontally ? and can I use an antec tricool 120mm to replace my heat sink's stock fan ?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOddOne*
> 
> I installed my Hyper 212+ vertically with the fan pointing downward towards my GPU. I'm planning on doing a push/pull fan config, should I re-seat my heat sink horizontally ? and can I use an antec tricool 120mm to replace my heat sink's stock fan ?


I recommend you not to waste money on a second fan for push pull, it will only give you 2 degrees celcius difference at best. You're fine with your cooler orientation though, and don't replace the stock fan on the 212 Plus because it is amazing for this cooler.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheOddOne*
> 
> I installed my Hyper 212+ vertically with the fan pointing downward towards my GPU. I'm planning on doing a push/pull fan config, should I re-seat my heat sink horizontally ? and can I use an antec tricool 120mm to replace my heat sink's stock fan ?


You mean that the fan is blowing downwards? In general you want to be pushing air either upwards or to the back of the case, so that convection can help you get that warm air out of the case. Having the fan blow downwards to the GPUs sounds counter productive to me.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> You mean that the fan is blowing downwards? In general you want to be pushing air either upwards or to the back of the case, so that convection can help you get that warm air out of the case. Having the fan blow downwards to the GPUs sounds counter productive to me.


I meant blowing upwards, coz his case has top has top exhaust. I misunderstood his way of saying the fan "pointing" downwards, I though he was saying the fan "facing" downwards.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I meant blowing upwards, coz his case has top has top exhaust. I misunderstood his way of saying the fan "pointing" downwards, I though he was saying the fan "facing" downwards.


Yeah his post was a bit confusing so I was trying to get him to clarify.


----------



## RonnyBb

Hey overclock.net,

I'm going to OC my Q6600 with my P35-DS4 board soon, and I'm just wondering. Will a cooler master hyper 212+ fit on an asus p35-ds4? It looks large, and the p35 has extensive piping.

Thanks!


----------



## afkingjay

pics of my rig


----------



## Dad2David

Hi,

Do i have to post pictures to become a member of the club - is that a requirement?

I have HAD 3 CM Hyper 212+ cooled systems, the current rig is in my signature - The Phantom!

Thanks!


----------



## dartuil

if u have ont too much sent it for me







(joke)


----------



## awing

Hey guys,

How good are Cooler Master regarding rebates?
Seems that Wed (11/30) is the last day If I'm buying from Newegg to get a $10 rebate
link http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065


----------



## chinesethunda

added people to the club, remember to PM me, if i don't see the post


----------



## Dad2David

Here is mine, please add me on to the club!

Cooler Master Hyper 212+ with blue led in the Phantom!



Long shot-


Another long shot:


Lights on:


Another view:


So there it is, that is my latest build! Specs in the signature! It runs real cool!


----------



## Pott

I just installed my Hyper 212+ in my Fractal R3. Went well (took me a little bit of time, it was my first cooler install).

I tested it (no stress test, just idle) and noticed that while my temperatures were about 15C cooler than with the stock Intel cooler, they still hovered around 27C for cores 2 to 4 and 30C for core 1.
Is this to be expected of a new install?

I used the stock fan by the way. I have spare Gentle Typhoon I may try it with.
Ambient temperature is about 25C.


----------



## Supper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pott*
> 
> I just installed my Hyper 212+ in my Fractal R3. Went well (took me a little bit of time, it was my first cooler install).
> I tested it (no stress test, just idle) and noticed that while my temperatures were about 15C cooler than with the stock Intel cooler, they still hovered around 27C for cores 2 to 4 and 30C for core 1.
> Is this to be expected of a new install?
> I used the stock fan by the way. I have spare Gentle Typhoon I may try it with.
> Ambient temperature is about 25C.


the idle temp is fine... u should try stress test, see how high u get when load....

my advice to have the same fan and not mix match fan as it degrades the performance...

so far i use 2 stock fans push pull set up, it gives me decent temp idle 30c, load 40-45c, ambient 27c...

a good case airflow is the key...

@Dad2David cool, like the LED... you made me wanna get the 140mm for my phantom as front intake...


----------



## Pott

Would it be adverse to performance to use an AP-15 on the Hyper 212+ connected to the CPU fan connector, but with a three prong connection only?


----------



## chinesethunda

Dad2David I already added you, nice fans though I like it
also added Pott and Xonipher

I like that led fan to your phantom, I just have sickleflows but they don't glow as bright =/


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dad2David*
> 
> Here is mine, please add me on to the club!
> Cooler Master Hyper 212+ with blue led in the Phantom!
> 
> Long shot-
> 
> Another long shot:
> 
> Lights on:
> 
> Another view:
> 
> So there it is, that is my latest build! Specs in the signature! It runs real cool!


What fans are those?


----------



## Dad2David

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRib*
> 
> What fans are those?


On the cooler are Rosewill 120mm Blue LED - the specs are in my signature!

The front is a CM 140mm and the others are all NZXT Blue LED fans (except for the one at the back)!


----------



## afkingjay

i like those fans may upgrade


----------



## Dad2David

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> Dad2David I already added you, nice fans though I like it
> also added Pott and Xonipher
> I like that led fan to your phantom, I just have sickleflows but they don't glow as bright =/


Thank you!


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dad2David*
> 
> On the cooler are Rosewill 120mm Blue LED - the specs are in my signature!
> The front is a CM 140mm and the others are all NZXT Blue LED fans (except for the one at the back)!


Do the Rosewill fans on the color work as well as the stock blade master that comes with the cooler? and how is the noise?


----------



## Dad2David

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRib*
> 
> Do the Rosewill fans on the color work as well as the stock blade master that comes with the cooler? and how is the noise?


Well they have a 3 pin connector so no PWM for those! They run pretty quiet even at high settings, and keeps things pretty cool! I have had no reason to crib about those fans yet?

But I don't think they would be as good as the original fan that comes with it, that is an awesome fan, I switched because I'm a sucker for the blue LED's and these look cool in the case!


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dad2David*
> 
> Well they have a 3 pin connector so no PWM for those! They run pretty quiet even at high settings, and keeps things pretty cool! I have had no reason to crib about those fans yet?
> But I don't think they would be as good as the original fan that comes with it, that is an awesome fan, I switched because I'm a sucker for the blue LED's and these look cool in the case!


Yeah, I need some more light in my case, so I'm considering a similar set up


----------



## stevman17

Quick Question. I am assembling my rig tomorrow, and I'm not sure which thermal paste to use. I read the OP, but it left me a little confused. (I'm not that smart, sorry). I have arctic silver 5, and the stock red tube that came with the 212+. What do?


----------



## jdip

I just noticed that the fan on my 212+ is always running on full power... Even at idle. Any ideas why?

Also it seems to top out at 1880 RPM. I know the fan is rated for 2000 RPM, is it normal that it only goes to 1880?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevman17*
> 
> Quick Question. I am assembling my rig tomorrow, and I'm not sure which thermal paste to use. I read the OP, but it left me a little confused. (I'm not that smart, sorry). I have arctic silver 5, and the stock red tube that came with the 212+. What do?


Isn't AS5 bad?

The one that comes with the 212+ is perfectly adequate IMO.


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> I just noticed that the fan on my 212+ is always running on full power... Even at idle. Any ideas why?
> Also it seems to top out at 1880 RPM. I know the fan is rated for 2000 RPM, is it normal that it only goes to 1880?
> Isn't AS5 bad?
> The one that comes with the 212+ is perfectly adequate IMO.


What is the fan plugged in to?


----------



## Dad2David

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRib*
> 
> Yeah, I need some more light in my case, so I'm considering a similar set up


Good luck, post some pictures once its done! Is that the _'Time Sink_' that you are talking about?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevman17*
> 
> Quick Question. I am assembling my rig tomorrow, and I'm not sure which thermal paste to use. I read the OP, but it left me a little confused. (I'm not that smart, sorry). I have arctic silver 5, and the stock red tube that came with the 212+. What do?


The one that came with the cooler is what I would recommend!


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevman17*
> 
> Quick Question. I am assembling my rig tomorrow, and I'm not sure which thermal paste to use. I read the OP, but it left me a little confused. (I'm not that smart, sorry). I have arctic silver 5, and the stock red tube that came with the 212+. What do?


I think you would be fine with the stock thermal paste
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dad2David*
> 
> Good luck, post some pictures once its done! Is that the _'Time Sink_' that you are talking about?


Yeah it is. Need to add some more flash to it


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRib*
> 
> What is the fan plugged in to?


The CPU fan pins on my motherboard.


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> The CPU fan pins on my motherboard.


Check in your BIOS if there is a Quiet Fan setting turned on


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRib*
> 
> Check in your BIOS if there is a Quiet Fan setting turned on


Couldn't find anything regarding that.

When I go to the hardware monitor in the BIOS it just tells me that the fan is spinning at 1880 RPM.


----------



## DF is BUSY

*question:...*

if i am going P/P, should i remove the rear exhaust fan that happens to be behind the pull fan? would it interfere the air pressure that the 2 blademasters are producing?


----------



## jdip

Never mind guys, I found the issue. It's just that the fan control on MSI boards essentially sucks. There is a way to set up some kind of fan profile but it is very limited.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> *question:...*
> if i am going P/P, should i remove the rear exhaust fan that happens to be behind the pull fan? would it interfere the air pressure that the 2 blademasters are producing?


No you don't want to remove that fan because it's the exhaust for your case.


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> Never mind guys, I found the issue. It's just that the fan control on MSI boards essentially sucks. There is a way to set up some kind of fan profile but it is very limited.
> No you don't want to remove that fan because it's the exhaust for your case.


Well that sucks to hear, but you should probably be able to find a setting to set it at 100% if you want it at max rpm, which i think is 2000 for the stock fan


----------



## Dad2David

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> Couldn't find anything regarding that.
> When I go to the hardware monitor in the BIOS it just tells me that the fan is spinning at 1880 RPM.


There is a _*SMART FAN*_ function on the MSI BIOS, which by default should be at a 100%, but just check to verify, and change it to 100%. you can also set a desired CPU temp, so the fan will automatically rev up if your CPU temp ever goes above the desired one you defined!

So set a low CPU temp, in the Smart Fan setting, in the 30's or 40's and then run a stress test and you should see your Fan speed go up automatically to the max!


----------



## DF is BUSY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> No you don't want to remove that fan because it's the exhaust for your case.


ah i see, thanks:thumb:


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> *question:...*
> if i am going P/P, should i remove the rear exhaust fan that happens to be behind the pull fan? would it interfere the air pressure that the 2 blademasters are producing?


No you don't wanna go P/P, coz that will only give you a 2 degrees celcius improve at best.


----------



## DF is BUSY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> No you don't wanna go P/P, coz that will only give you a 2 degrees celcius improve at best.


i got a free blademaster from a friend, so... why not?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> i got a free blademaster from a friend, so... why not?


Then it's OK. If you're gonna SPEND to buy a second fan for P/P then it's not worth it.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRib*
> 
> Well that sucks to hear, but you should probably be able to find a setting to set it at 100% if you want it at max rpm, which i think is 2000 for the stock fan


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dad2David*
> 
> There is a _*SMART FAN*_ function on the MSI BIOS, which by default should be at a 100%, but just check to verify, and change it to 100%. you can also set a desired CPU temp, so the fan will automatically rev up if your CPU temp ever goes above the desired one you defined!
> So set a low CPU temp, in the Smart Fan setting, in the 30's or 40's and then run a stress test and you should see your Fan speed go up automatically to the max!


Thanks for the responses guys, I had already set it before I went to bed and it works fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> ah i see, thanks:thumb:


No prob.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> No you don't wanna go P/P, coz that will only give you a 2 degrees celcius improve at best.


^This.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DF is BUSY*
> 
> i got a free blademaster from a friend, so... why not?


If that's the case then you're right, why not.

You could probably gain more from using that extra blade master to beef up your case cooling though. Like wongwarren said, adding a pull fan doesn't yield much better temperatures on this heatsink.


----------



## chinesethunda

guys, check out the test I did in my sig, the last item. You will see some tested results


----------



## afkingjay

idle temp 22-24c push pull cfg good or bad?


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> idle temp 22-24c push pull cfg good or bad?


Very good.

Mine is 35-40.


----------



## afkingjay

jdip what your max temp under load, i just O.C on my i-5 2500k 3.3 ghz to 4.7 ghz. and have not stress tested it yet


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> idle temp 22-24c push pull cfg good or bad?


What is the ambient temperature in your room? 22-24c seems really low. Are you measuring core temps or CPU temp?


----------



## afkingjay

cpu temp is between 22-24c, core temp is average of 31.5c lowest core 23c highest core 35c, my room is about 69-72F


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> jdip what your max temp under load, i just O.C on my i-5 2500k 3.3 ghz to 4.7 ghz. and have not stress tested it yet


My max temp during a 12 hour Prime95 Blend was 71c. I suspect it will be a bit lower now since it's a bit colder.

That was at 4.5 GHz @ 1.34v.


----------



## afkingjay

ill dl prime 95 and post temps later,

during pc idle and web browsing my clock speed says 1600.2mhz, why is it not at the 3..3ghz like it used to be after over clocking. ID like idle speed to be 3.3 and have it kick up to 4.7 when needed, any advice?


----------



## Destructodave

I have a question. This is my first time using an Aftermarket cooler. Do I have to let the TIM cure before I boot up? Any time length, or is it ok to go. Ive always just booted up with stock stuff, never had any problems.

Also, on the application. Do I have to cram some down in the crevices or just put 3 lines in the crevices? Thanks.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> ill dl prime 95 and post temps later,
> during pc idle and web browsing my clock speed says 1600.2mhz, why is it not at the 3..3ghz like it used to be after over clocking. ID like idle speed to be 3.3 and have it kick up to 4.7 when needed, any advice?


It's normal, it does this at idle to save power when it doesn't need to do anything intensive.

But you can turn it off in BIOS, it's a power saving feature. I prefer leaving it on.


----------



## afkingjay

one final question jdip before i run prime95. I installed core temp to keep track of all cores in task bar, core 0 is at 24c.... core 1 ,2,3 are all 34c +/- 2c why such a big difference between that one core. core temp has that core in red and the code for red means critical temp..


----------



## afkingjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destructodave*
> 
> I have a question. This is my first time using an Aftermarket cooler. Do I have to let the TIM cure before I boot up? Any time length, or is it ok to go. Ive always just booted up with stock stuff, never had any problems.
> Also, on the application. Do I have to cram some down in the crevices or just put 3 lines in the crevices? Thanks.


do you have the evo or the hyper 212 plus? if the hyper 212 plus, cram some in the 3 cracks and then apply an even coat over cooler base with a credit card.

if you have the evo, just put an even coat over cooler. install and your good to go


----------



## RushMore1205

lol i love OCN we have a club for everything

count me in for 3 systems post pics soon


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> one final question jdip before i run prime95. I installed core temp to keep track of all cores in task bar, core 0 is at 24c.... core 1 ,2,3 are all 34c +/- 2c why such a big difference between that one core. core temp has that core in red and the code for red means critical temp..


Hmm not really sure what to say, that is a pretty big discrepancy. But I wouldn't worry too much about it since sometimes my cores have differences of like 8c or something. I wouldn't worry at all about core temp saying it is a critical temp at all, you only want to start getting worried at 85-90+c. I like to keep mine under 75c at all times though. The max safe temp rating on the 2500k is 98c.


----------



## chinesethunda

RushMore1205 added you
well if you are doing something else then yeah it might have some discrepancies, it happens to me sometimes too


----------



## jackblack644

Can I join the club?


----------



## konoii

Got the Cooler Master 212 Evo to replace my Corsair H60 and I love it







It dropped my temps from 63-65c at max load to 54-57c


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *konoii*
> 
> 
> Got the Cooler Master 212 Evo to replace my Corsair H60 and I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It dropped my temps from 63-65c at max load to 54-57c


I would have thought the H60 would be better at cooling


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRib*
> 
> I would have thought the H60 would be better at cooling


Corsair H60
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Corsair H60
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus


Well that is suprising


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRib*
> 
> Well that is suprising


I don't find it surprising as the H60 is so thin.


----------



## Ellis

I don't think I'll be replacing my 212+ any time soon - I don't need my CPU to be any cooler, although I may get a new fan to make it quieter. Unfortunately, it's the PSU that's making my system seem quite loud overall.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *konoii*
> 
> 
> Got the Cooler Master 212 Evo to replace my Corsair H60 and I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It dropped my temps from 63-65c at max load to 54-57c


Nice, now clean up those cables


----------



## afkingjay

why is the stock fan from the hypere 212 evo not reaching the 2,000 rpm at full speed like advertised, i get 1850 max rpm


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> why is the stock fan from the hypere 212 evo not reaching the 2,000 rpm at full speed like advertised, i get 1850 max rpm


Every fan is different. That's why manufacturers, when listing their fan specs (speeds), the include something like "±10%"


----------



## afkingjay

this is my max hyper 212 evo fan speed max is 1770 rpm.... 10% of 2000 or + mhz is 1830or higher.. im justtrying to get the most out of my ****

dont mind temps lol, im running prime

thj


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackblack644*
> 
> Can I join the club?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *konoii*
> 
> Got the Cooler Master 212 Evo to replace my Corsair H60 and I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It dropped my temps from 63-65c at max load to 54-57c


added you both


----------



## Supper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> why is the stock fan from the hypere 212 evo not reaching the 2,000 rpm at full speed like advertised, i get 1850 max rpm


the fan will reach 2000rpm during its stress testing in the factory but in real world scenario the stock fan will not reach 2000rpm, simply because your cpu doesnt need it to run at 2000rpm...
unless your cpu is somewhere around 70 or 80c then the fan will at 2000rpm and why still using aircooled when temps is 70-80, should have change to watercooled instead..
also mobo have a chip that controls the pwm fan speed to cool whichever part it needs to have them cooled...


----------



## afkingjay

thanks


----------



## RileyD

Had mine for almost a year now. Works great!


----------



## amdew

I just picked up a Hyper 212 Plus for installation into my Antec 300 case. My Antec case fans are as follows:

Rear: 1 x 120mm - exhaust (OEM)
Top: 1 x140mm - exhaust (OEM)
Front:: 2 x 120mm - intake (Logisys SF120)

Which way should I orient the Hyper 212 and the attached fan for best CPU cooling?

Thanks!


----------



## Supper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdew*
> 
> I just picked up a Hyper 212 Plus for installation into my Antec 300 case. My Antec case fans are as follows:
> Rear: 1 x 120mm - exhaust (OEM)
> Top: 1 x140mm - exhaust (OEM)
> Front:: 2 x 120mm - intake (Logisys SF120)
> Which way should I orient the Hyper 212 and the attached fan for best CPU cooling?
> Thanks!


i'd reckon east west orientation due to your front intake provide fresh air...


----------



## Matt-Matt

I love the cooler guys!

Best $33 i've spent on my PC so far! Anyway what are your overclocks, and what kind of voltage do you guys use MAX for your Hyper 212+?
I'm running 1.27 or so on a Q9400 atm. Never passes 55c


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supper*
> 
> i'd reckon east west orientation due to your front intake provide fresh air...


Thanks. That is what I did with the fan mounted so that it is pushing air into the side of the heatsink that is facing the front of the case.

My I5-2500K overclocked to 4.3 GHZ Prime95 temps are about 60C. A big improvement over the stock cooler! A great buy for sure.


----------



## keeganzero

One of my favorite parts of my PC. Silent and super effective, just how I like my coolers.


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Thanks. That is what I did with the fan mounted so that it is pushing air into the side of the heatsink that is facing the front of the case.
> My I5-2500K overclocked to 4.3 GHZ Prime95 temps are about 60C. A big improvement over the stock cooler! A great buy for sure.


You want it so the cooler's fan pushes the air through the cooler and toward the exhaust fan


----------



## jackblack644

No, becuase hot air rises - so if you have a vent at the top, put a fan in it and place the heatsink that the fan pushes from underneath it.

Here's a picture of what it should look like:


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackblack644*
> 
> No, becuase hot air rises - so if you have a vent at the top, put a fan in it and place the heatsink that the fan pushes from underneath it.
> Here's a picture of what it should look like:


That's EXACTLY how my case setup is, except that i have the standard 230mm side fan. And i've got a front 120mm Red LED fan in the front. To cool down the ram etc as it's overclocked


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackblack644*
> 
> No, becuase hot air rises - so if you have a vent at the top, put a fan in it and place the heatsink that the fan pushes from underneath it.
> Here's a picture of what it should look like:


I'm not sure heat rising affects things too much in such a small space especially when you're directing the air flow with exhaust fans. Also, supposedly using sleeve bearing fans horizontally can shorten their life and increase noise


----------



## amdew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackblack644*
> 
> No, becuase hot air rises - so if you have a vent at the top, put a fan in it and place the heatsink that the fan pushes from underneath it.
> Here's a picture of what it should look like:


Thanks. I do have an exhaust fan on the top of my case but not sure it's worth moving the Hyper 212 around since the temps I get now seem pretty good. That thing was a bear to install on the ASUS P8Z68/V-Pro/GEN3 board. It was really tough getting the retention bracket lined up with the mounts without moving the heatsink around and upsetting the thermal paste.


----------



## ikem

got my 212+ today. its going in a phenom II x2 555 system.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem*
> 
> got my 212+ today. its going in a phenom II x2 555 system.


That's gonna run coooool









Well having my graphics card under load creates heat inside my case, which most of it rises to the top. I don't get any "warm" air going out the back fan..


----------



## chinesethunda

heat does rise, however air goes where you tell it to, so if you have fans blowing out the back, then it will go out the back. I am going to do some tests and see how it goes


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> heat does rise, however air goes where you tell it to, so if you have fans blowing out the back, then it will go out the back. I am going to do some tests and see how it goes


Yeah, i was going to but i don't have much thermal paste left


----------



## chinesethunda

thats fine, i had it that way too for a while, was decent, im going to cut a hole in the top of my cm elite 335 and do a test both ways and post the results


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> heat does rise, however air goes where you tell it to, so if you have fans blowing out the back, then it will go out the back. I am going to do some tests and see how it goes


i agree, the fan is going to over power the flow of heat convection al the time. So unless you have a fan on the top, always point it to the back exhaust. If you do have a fan up top, then either solution will benefit you.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> thats fine, i had it that way too for a while, was decent, im going to cut a hole in the top of my cm elite 335 and do a test both ways and post the results


I wouldn't cut a gaping hole.. I'd just get the drill and make a *Couple* of holes for ventilation. Then get some fly screen and install over it.


----------



## chinesethunda

why not a gaping hole? i would put a finger grill over it or something, I already cut out the back grill. I feel that it would be a better idea than grills as it constricts air flow less


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> why not a gaping hole? i would put a finger grill over it or something, I already cut out the back grill. I feel that it would be a better idea than grills as it constricts air flow less


Oh i thought you were just going to have a massive hole there! hahaha, i can imagine the things that would get lost in there
And no to mention all of the dust


----------



## jdip

Hyper 212+ FTW.

This thing is such great value.


----------



## chinesethunda

depends if i have it exhausting or not, i guess il have to see when i cut it


----------



## Mackem

I have a Hyper 212 EVO and when I fitted it onto my 2500K, my ASUS mobo had the CPU_LED lit up red and wouldn't boot. This doesn't occur with the stock cooler. What could be the problem?


----------



## Boyd

Really? like all you change is the CPU cooler and then you start experiencing problems with the system not booting? i would suggest double checking the bios configurations. not quite sure how to help out on this, never heard such an error before.


----------



## Mackem

I applied the thermal paste, fitted the 212 EVO and when I went to boot, the CPU_LED lit up red so I removed the 212 EVO, put the stock Intel cooler on and it booted without any problems. I have a 2500K and a P8Z68-V/GEN3.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyd*
> 
> Really? like all you change is the CPU cooler and then you start experiencing problems with the system not booting? i would suggest double checking the bios configurations. not quite sure how to help out on this, never heard such an error before.


Yes.. Sounds quite strange. Are you sure it's plugged in properly and mounted properly?
Did you remove the plastic protection?
Did you use thermal paste? (i know it sounds stupid, but its happened before)
Reset to default settings on the BIOS, otherwise i'd contact ASUS asap... Try a bios flash (if theres an update)

Idk what else it could be, a dodgy fan that came with the Hyper? Try it in another fan port.


----------



## jackblack644

Was your CPU Power cable plugged in?


----------



## Boyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackblack644*
> 
> Was your CPU Power cable plugged in?


yeh might want to double check where are you plugging in your CPU fan, it happened before that a friend of mine had his CPU fan hooked up to a SYS fan port (which is no big deal, but keeps the CPU fan on 100%)

make sure the EVO fan cable is not damaged or cut in some way. that might be help out figure out where the problem is.

if you try and get another fan that can fit the cooler, try connect that instead of the can that came with the package and see if that helps out.

i hope my suggestions help you figure out your problem, its basically what i would do in your case, good luck.


----------



## chinesethunda

also maybe its because your motherboard might want you to plug in the cpu fan in order to start. i know mine did


----------



## Prpntblr95

Just took my fan off the metal part, found 1/16" of dust, Yuk! took it off the mobo and blew it all off. Runs much better now


----------



## Mackem

I had the fan plugged in, the fan on the heatsink was spinning but CPU_LED was on. I plugged it into the CPU_FAN connector, although there is a connector next to it named CPU_FAN_OPT?


----------



## amdew

I also have the I5-2500K and a P8Z68-V/GEN3 board and everything works just fine. The Hyper 212 is connected to the CPU_FAN connector. Perhaps the backing plate or retention bracket is causing a short somewhere?


----------



## chinesethunda

maybe, maybe its the screw, also did you screw it on too tightly?


----------



## afkingjay

anyone have the hypere 212 with an antec lanboy? trying to figure out if i should get that case and how to run it with keeping the positive pressure in the case


----------



## chinesethunda

that case is just full of shinanigans lol. its a good case but its too much lulz for me to handle lol. but if you get that case id say get a better cpu cooler


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *afkingjay*
> 
> anyone have the hypere 212 with an antec lanboy? trying to figure out if i should get that case and how to run it with keeping the positive pressure in the case


tbh i never liked the look of it, it looks cheap and flimsy.. Even with the "Positive air pressure" you will get dust too..
In. Every. Single.Vent.
So have fun cleaning it out!









Lol @ Black belt in cable management!
And the whole point in the LBA is the fans right 'causee he had to remove 4 i'm pretty sure..


----------



## iusearayK47

I have the Hyper 212+ with the stock fan and the R4 in push and pull.

I'm using an i7 920 D0 Stepping and on stock I'm getting 36,40,39,39 on idle and like 62,66,66,67 on load with an ambient of 21.

Are the temperatures a bit high for stock settings? (I think it's a bit high)

My stock voltage is like 1.23V or something like that.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iusearayK47*
> 
> I have the Hyper 212+ with the stock fan and the R4 in push and pull.
> I'm using an i7 920 D0 Stepping and on stock I'm getting 36,40,39,39 on idle and like 62,66,66,67 on load with an ambient of 21.
> Are the temperatures a bit high for stock settings? (I think it's a bit high)
> My stock voltage is like 1.23V or something like that.


Quite possibly. My C2Q overclocked runs at 50c max with the Hyper 212+. Have you got any spare thermal paste from it? If so try using it with very little. Also make sure it's facing the right way for best airflow (does your case have a top/back fan) etc.

If you have a spare 120mm fan try that for outtake too, it helps shave about 2-3c off high temps. So this may be your savior!









Also is LLC enabled or disabled?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Quite possibly. My C2Q overclocked runs at 50c max with the Hyper 212+. Have you got any spare thermal paste from it? If so try using it with very little. Also make sure it's facing the right way for best airflow (does your case have a top/back fan) etc.
> If you have a spare 120mm fan try that for outtake too, it helps shave about 2-3c off high temps. So this may be your savior!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also is LLC enabled or disabled?


I think his temperatures are just fine to be honest. The Nehalems are fireballs.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I think his temperatures are just fine to be honest. The Nehalems are fireballs.


It depends what revision actually..
There was one that can be ran at 4.1GHz whilst under-volting apparently. Which is insane.
All on the stock cooler..


----------



## DF is BUSY




----------



## echohack

Able to get 4.6 ghz at 1.30 volts, raising temps to 78c in prime95. Any higher OC gets me temps at 80. Using 2600k push and pull.


----------



## iusearayK47

Overclocked my i7 920 to 3.4Ghz with 1.176V (on CPU-Z, forgot what I put in BIOS)
With push and pull BladeMaster and R4

Idle temps are around 39-41C
Full Load is 69-70C

High? Good temps?


----------



## chinesethunda

that is a big fan lol added


----------



## jamor

CM Hyper 212 Plus is on the way! I'll try and post some results next week when I'm up and running.









Good lookin rig and nice analysis in your push/pull thunda.

I'm deciding whether or not it's worth it to equip my 140mm top fan or not. Perhaps I'll do some testing similar to yours; but, if it doesn't help much I'd like to keep the top closed.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> CM Hyper 212 Plus is on the way! I'll try and post some results next week when I'm up and running.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good lookin rig and nice analysis in your push/pull thunda.
> I'm deciding whether or not it's worth it to equip my 140mm top fan or not. Perhaps I'll do some testing similar to yours; but, if it doesn't help much I'd like to keep the top closed.


Good buy there. I got my 2500K to 4.9 with this cooler. Temperatures are in the high 70s under full load because my ambient is a bit high (27 to be exact).


----------



## TheSandman

how good will this preform for my 2500k seriously considering it, and would like 4.5-5ghz


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSandman*
> 
> how good will this preform for my 2500k seriously considering it, and would like 4.5-5ghz


It will handle 4.5 GHz easily. Not sure about 5GHz though, haven't really seen any people doing that with this cooler.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> It will handle 4.5 GHz easily. Not sure about 5GHz though, haven't really seen any people doing that with this cooler.


Apparently 4.5GHz is the best you'll get. You may get higher if you have a good chip. Seeing as it's so cheap just get it, and see how well it goes. Then you can suggest it to people on here if it does well!
If it's not good enough, sell it to a friend for like $20..

It's always a good cooler for a secondary rig, or a backup one incase yours dies or something.. Idk


----------



## chinesethunda

nice, i can barely get my 2500k to 4.9ghz on water lol


----------



## Matt-Matt

So my new fans arrived today, as i damaged the Hyper 212+'s stock fan when i re-seated it. Well the cable.
They're CoolerMaster XtraFlo's. Seeing as nobody has written a review i shall write one up soon.


----------



## TheSandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Apparently 4.5GHz is the best you'll get. You may get higher if you have a good chip. Seeing as it's so cheap just get it, and see how well it goes. Then you can suggest it to people on here if it does well!
> If it's not good enough, sell it to a friend for like $20..
> It's always a good cooler for a secondary rig, or a backup one incase yours dies or something.. Idk


its @ 4.0 @ stock voltage on the Stock HSF gaming wise it topped at 73C, is that good or bad?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSandman*
> 
> its @ 4.0 @ stock voltage on the Stock HSF gaming wise it topped at 73C, is that good or bad?


73c is acceptable.. But i'd still get an aftermarket cooler for the longrun. Plus it'll be quieter and help overall case temps, it doens't just effect the CPU itself.

A friends i5 2400 topped 100c on Intel Burn test. We got him a hyper 212+ and it didn't go past 50!

So you should be roughly halving your temps, or at least knock a third off!


----------



## afkingjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSandman*
> 
> how good will this preform for my 2500k seriously considering it, and would like 4.5-5ghz


4.8 ghz at 65c max


----------



## Matt-Matt

Got some fans for my Hyper 212+ now.
I damaged the fan cable while installing it, it only worked if the cable was flexed in a certain way..



Anyway, these are quite good fans for the Hyper 212 i think. They look so nice!

Dropped temps about 4c for me


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSandman*
> 
> how good will this preform for my 2500k seriously considering it, and would like 4.5-5ghz


It took my 2500K to 4.9 Go figure.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Got some fans for my Hyper 212+ now.
> I damaged the fan cable while installing it, it only worked if the cable was flexed in a certain way..
> 
> Anyway, these are quite good fans for the Hyper 212 i think. They look so nice!
> Dropped temps about 4c for me


The Xtraflows are very similar to the Blademasters. The Blademasters have a slightly higher static pressure though. That's why I got two in push pull on my 212 Plus after I got my new processor, RAM and motherboard which has two PWM headers.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The Xtraflows are very similar to the Blademasters. The Blademasters have a slightly higher static pressure though. That's why I got two in push pull on my 212 Plus after I got my new processor, RAM and motherboard which has two PWM headers.


Oh, that's what the Hyper 212's fan's called!
And yeah, these have a slightly higher CFM. Only problem is in Australia they don't sell the Blademasters, well not from anywhere i order anyway.
I liked the LED's in these anyway!


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Let me in! My temps at 4.8ghz are lower than a lot of Water Cooled ***s! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


----------



## Azuredragon1

loving my 212+ in winter =)


----------



## chinesethunda

added lol but fix your wires!


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

HAHAH No way! You don't see them through the window when case door is on


----------



## LostRib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Got some fans for my Hyper 212+ now.
> I damaged the fan cable while installing it, it only worked if the cable was flexed in a certain way..
> 
> Anyway, these are quite good fans for the Hyper 212 i think. They look so nice!
> Dropped temps about 4c for me


where did you get the XtraFlo fans


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

I run these on the ceiling of my case (just like xtraflo)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?item=N82E16835233036


----------



## jamor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Good buy there. I got my 2500K to 4.9 with this cooler. Temperatures are in the high 70s under full load because my ambient is a bit high (27 to be exact).


Thanks. This is my first build. Mobo & Optical Drive & Cooler Master arrive Monday or Tuesday.

I'd be fine with 70s full load. I'll post my scores late next week.

MRWHITE I like your build looks nice. Did you paint that Blue yourself?


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Let me in! My temps at 4.8ghz are lower than a lot of Water Cooled ***s! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


Holy crap all I see is cables.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Jamor: Case came like that, it's actually not that blue I think the flash messed with it a little.

Jdip: Get off the cables! hahahahaaa I KNOW I KNOW.. I'll tidy them up! geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeez


----------



## jdip

BTW those CrossFire 6950s are sexy


----------



## Thanos1972

Guys has anyone else put tape around the cooler to ''close'' it?and if yes what are the diff in temps?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> Let me in! My temps at 4.8ghz are lower than a lot of Water Cooled ***s! WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO


Now clean up those cables.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostRib*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Got some fans for my Hyper 212+ now.
> I damaged the fan cable while installing it, it only worked if the cable was flexed in a certain way..
> 
> Anyway, these are quite good fans for the Hyper 212 i think. They look so nice!
> Dropped temps about 4c for me
> 
> 
> 
> where did you get the XtraFlo fans
Click to expand...

PC Case Gear Australia. It's the only place that I've seen them!
Same with my HAF 932 Dust filter kit, i've written a review on them too.
Here


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> PC Case Gear Australia. It's the only place that I've seen them!
> Same with my HAF 932 Dust filter kit, i've written a review on them too.
> Here


Surprisingly, they are very common in Malaysia.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Surprisingly, they are very common in Malaysia.


Yeah well.. I expected them to be in a package. When i got it, it was just in a zip-lock plastic bag.. Looked kinda dodgy, but they look alright.
Shame i can't really use them untill the 25th though.. Same with my 6850


----------



## chinesethunda

i think if you just use electrical tape to close off the cooler, it should provide maybe a degree or 2 better cooling. its like putting a shroud on it


----------



## Thanos1972

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> i think if you just use electrical tape to close off the cooler, it should provide maybe a degree or 2 better cooling. its like putting a shroud on it


Well i did it but i do not know cause i do not have core readings as 4core.
As a 2core my readings where these.The temps didnt change until the end of the very high stress test.1.44vcore and 1.315 cpu_nb (see below same settings as 4 core).



Here is the Hyper212+ taped both sides



Now,another odd thing is that i have one 170mm upper as an exhaust and i put an 120mm in front of the hyper as and intake next to the exhaust.I was trying to find out where is best to put the 120mm so i removed it from top and experimenting.Well the best position is this (1 degree lower in temps maybe 2).



The odd thing is that i had already an upper front intake 120mm as you can see here.Its behind the recently fitted 120mm



And here are my readings as 4core with same settings as dual one with the recently fitted fan.



Wish i had core readings as a 4core.Do not know about exterior temperature.Room was not heated and i was with a tshirt so i cant say that it was cold outside.Doors were closed.(trying to provide as much information i can







)


----------



## chinesethunda

o, thats what you meant, i thought you meant taping off where the fan meets the heat sink, where theres a gap between the fan and the heat sink is where i thought you meant you taped up lol


----------



## keeganzero

Why would you want to close the cooler with tape? That sounds like a horrible idea.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keeganzero*
> 
> Why would you want to close the cooler with tape? That sounds like a horrible idea.


You close the sides off with electrical tape!
It's to channel the airflow through the cooler, rather then just out into the case.


----------



## chinesethunda

especially when its losing air before it goes into the heatsink so you could tape it to make it go into the heat sin


----------



## kbrandon1

I love this cooler. It was cheap and it keeps my cpu frosty... I use 1 fan and i've never had heat issues.


----------



## Chubz

I ordered a Hyper 212+ with an additional 120mm Cool Master Blade Master pwm fan.

Count me in the club!









How do I get my computer information into my signature? I put in my computer information in my profile but don't see how to get it into my sig.


----------



## Chubz

So the extra 120mm pwm fan isn't worth having? Neither is a side fan? From what it says in the first post. Is this based on everyone's experience in this thread or what? Thanks.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chubz*
> 
> I ordered a Hyper 212+ with an additional 120mm Cool Master Blade Master pwm fan.
> Count me in the club!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do I get my computer information into my signature? I put in my computer information in my profile but don't see how to get it into my sig.


Go to My Profile -> Scroll down to Your Forum Signature (under your subs) -> Edit Signature Text -> Show stuff in Your Signature Drop Down Menu -> Your rig (you have to have made it in Rig Builder already)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chubz*
> 
> So the extra 120mm pwm fan isn't worth having? Neither is a side fan? From what it says in the first post. Is this based on everyone's experience in this thread or what? Thanks.


Getting an extra fan for a push-pull configuration doesn't do too much. It will shave off like 1-2c or so at load temps, so it's not really worth getting. If you already have a 120mm fan lying around then sure why not add it.

As for a side fan that's for your case temps so it will help everything overall (especially video cards).


----------



## Thanos1972

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keeganzero*
> 
> Why would you want to close the cooler with tape? That sounds like a horrible idea.


What other people said.it helps even if it is 1 degree cooler,it helps.especially with me as i do not have core temps and i am overclocking cause its an unlocked one and phenoms II above 55 on cores show some instability.

You can try it on your chip and see if it does make a difference.just stress the cpu with intelburn test( i recommend very high test) ,take a screenshot and then put the tape one without removing the cooler and then stress again and post your ss...i do not recommend taking of the cooler as the test should be done with the paste you have already on as everything else as it is.just be gentle when you put the tape on and try not to turn the hyper.


----------



## Chubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> Go to My Profile -> Scroll down to Your Forum Signature (under your subs) -> Edit Signature Text -> Show stuff in Your Signature Drop Down Menu -> Your rig (you have to have made it in Rig Builder already)
> Getting an extra fan for a push-pull configuration doesn't do too much. It will shave off like 1-2c or so at load temps, so it's not really worth getting. If you already have a 120mm fan lying around then sure why not add it.
> As for a side fan that's for your case temps so it will help everything overall (especially video cards).


Thanks for this reply. Very helpful.


----------



## afkingjay

i bought a second fan and it droped temps by 3c idle and 4c at load . 20c idle and 65c under load are my temps..... i5 2500k 3.3 o.c to 4.7 prime 95


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chubz*
> 
> Thanks for this reply. Very helpful.


NP, I see from your sig that you found it alright


----------



## Zeek

<3 winter. 4ghz never goes over 48C.


----------



## soulstaker

Just installed the 212+ on my computer. Guess its fine for a stock E4300, right ?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just installed the 212+ on my computer. Guess its fine for a stock E4300, right ?


E4300? Did you pay more for the cooler?








But eh i take it you're in the upgrade process. I did the same
Anyway my hyper 212+ with 2 fans runs a Q9400 @ 3.52GHz at around 50c. So it Will be fine.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *soulstaker*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just installed the 212+ on my computer. Guess its fine for a stock E4300, right ?
> 
> 
> 
> E4300? Did you pay more for the cooler?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But eh i take it you're in the upgrade process. I did the same
> Anyway my hyper 212+ with 2 fans runs a Q9400 @ 3.52GHz at around 50c. So it Will be fine.
Click to expand...

An overclocked quad core at 50C vs a stock dual core at 52C, I don't think it's fine.


----------



## Fatalrip

He is fine, probably just used a bit too much or too little thermal paste.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> An overclocked quad core at 50C vs a stock dual core at 52C, I don't think it's fine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fatalrip*
> 
> He is fine, probably just used a bit too much or too little thermal paste.


It's fine for use, i'm just saying he probably has a tad too much/less as Fatalrip suggested.
I have a HAF 932 as in my rig so that probably helps the situation, along with i have 2 non-stock fans on the 212+

And i did re-seat mine a few times to get the best mounting technique too.
When i had the Core 2 Duo it was getting to 60ish @4.1GHz, then i get a Quadcore and it clocks @ 3.52GHz which runs 10c cooler?
I know it's to do with that this requires ALOT less voltage. But yeah, just saying.


----------



## aznever

His e4300 is a 65nm vs the quad that is a 45nm.


----------



## TheSandman

I has one can i join lol


----------



## Pentium-David

I love this cooler but it can get pretty loud sometimes....am I the only one?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pentium-David*
> 
> I love this cooler but it can get pretty loud sometimes....am I the only one?


With the stock fan? I never heard it "Loud".
Could be that 2500k creating masses of heat so the cooler just ramps up it's speed!
With these non-stockies it's a bit noiser, even then i wouldn't say it's all that loud


----------



## Pentium-David

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> With the stock fan? I never heard it "Loud".
> Could be that 2500k creating masses of heat so the cooler just ramps up it's speed!
> With these non-stockies it's a bit noiser, even then i wouldn't say it's all that loud


No, I mean my 212+ is loud. I wouldn't put a 2500K @ 4.4 with the stock cooler


----------



## TheSandman

yea a little loud but @ 4.4 at the desktop its 41C so i can't compalin


----------



## Mackem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> I had the fan plugged in, the fan on the heatsink was spinning but CPU_LED was on. I plugged it into the CPU_FAN connector, although there is a connector next to it named CPU_FAN_OPT?


Regarding this issue, I think I may have screwed it on too tight; When three of the four corners of the retention plate were secured, the last corner just wouldn't go in for s**t and I have to practically force it in. My retention plate snapped after I removed it so I'm waiting on a new one before I can mount it again. What should I clean the thermal paste off the CPU once I get everything sorted?


----------



## jamor

My 212+ arrives in an hour.









Seeing a couple "too much / too little" pasting problems.

What is the perfect amount of paste to apply?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> My 212+ arrives in an hour.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeing a couple "too much / too little" pasting problems.
> What is the perfect amount of paste to apply?


Fill in the gaps between the heat pipes and the base, then apply a pea sized amount on your CPU.


----------



## jamor

Got it thanks ^


----------



## jamor

What is everyone idling at and what program do you use for temperature?

My BIOS tells me I'm idling at 42c CPU and 25c MOBO.

I'm reading a lot of 30c CPU idle temps so I think I did something wrong.









But most importantly I POSTed my first PC build ever today


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> What is everyone idling at and what program do you use for temperature?
> My BIOS tells me I'm idling at 42c CPU and 25c MOBO.
> I'm reading a lot of 30c CPU idle temps so I think I did something wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But most importantly I POSTed my first PC build ever today


What's your ambient? Mines 61F according to my space heaters thermostat (my actual space heater not my sig







)
Push/pull generic CM fans @ 1200 rpm (on fan controller)
This is the program I like to use. If I'm getting two different readings I always go with the highest (especially if it's reported in bios)


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> What is everyone idling at and what program do you use for temperature?
> My BIOS tells me I'm idling at 42c CPU and 25c MOBO.
> I'm reading a lot of 30c CPU idle temps so I think I did something wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But most importantly I POSTed my first PC build ever today


Mine idles at 35C on the lowest core according to Real Temp with an ambient of 22C.


----------



## DF is BUSY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> What is everyone idling at and what program do you use for temperature?
> My BIOS tells me I'm idling at 42c CPU and 25c MOBO.
> I'm reading a lot of 30c CPU idle temps so I think I did something wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But most importantly I POSTed my first PC build ever today


correct me if i'm wrong but i think its

65nm cpu -> core temp
45nm/32nm cpu -> real temp

for most accurate temp readings/results ?


----------



## Pentium-David

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> What is everyone idling at and what program do you use for temperature?
> 
> My BIOS tells me I'm idling at 42c CPU and 25c MOBO.
> 
> I'm reading a lot of 30c CPU idle temps so I think I did something wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But most importantly I POSTed my first PC build ever today


That's not completely accurate because when in the BIOS the CPU isn't at idle. Idk what % it's at but it's definitely not idling. Try looking at it in Windows and I bet it'll be lower


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pentium-David*
> 
> That's not completely accurate because when in the BIOS the CPU isn't at idle. Idk what % it's at but it's definitely not idling. Try looking at it in Windows and I bet it'll be lower


My idle temperatures on my old E5200 is actually higher in Windows than its temperatures in bios.


----------



## kbrandon1

Here's my setup. Temps stay <80c up to about 3.8ghz. When i oc my i7 950 to 4.1ghz my temps spike to 90+.







I'm using intelburn test on maximum. I don't think it the cooler or air flow, it think its my voltages as I'm new to oc'ing (but that's for another forum). Any thoughts on my setup? I have 2 fans on the front, 1 internal fan behind hhd bay, 1 rear exhaust and a big boy exhaust on top.


----------



## chauge423

Ordered my 212+ today 1 day shipping will be here tomorrow.


----------



## hat1324

Hey I dont suppose theres any harm in buying a refurb 212+? I mean its just metal and fans right?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbrandon1*
> 
> Here's my setup. Temps stay <80c up to about 3.8ghz. When i oc my i7 950 to 4.1ghz my temps spike to 90+.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using intelburn test on maximum. I don't think it the cooler or air flow, it think its my voltages as I'm new to oc'ing (but that's for another forum). Any thoughts on my setup? I have 2 fans on the front, 1 internal fan behind hhd bay, 1 rear exhaust and a big boy exhaust on top.


The reason you're spiking at 90 is because this cooler can't take it. The first generation i7's were fireballs, and this cooler has HDT, so it can't take too high a heat load.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The reason you're spiking at 90 is because this cooler can't take it. The first generation i7's were fireballs, and this cooler has HDT, so it can't take too high a heat load.


Yeah, you really want a better cooler for that processor, try a DH-14 or a Frio or the likes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hat1324*
> 
> Hey I dont suppose theres any harm in buying a refurb 212+? I mean its just metal and fans right?


Not meaning to be offensive, but what's the point? It's so cheap to start off with. I know i'd pay a bit more for a new one. :s


----------



## kbrandon1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The reason you're spiking at 90 is because this cooler can't take it. The first generation i7's were fireballs, and this cooler has HDT, so it can't take too high a heat load.


Thanks for the insight. A buddy of mine has the same cpu/cooler and is able to maintain temps <75c at a stable 4.1ghz. Our mobo's and cases are different but i don't think that would count for 15-20 degrees. Any thoughts as to why his temps are so much lower? He seems to think that I should have no problems hitting 4ghz with the 950/Hyper 212 combo.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbrandon1*
> 
> Thanks for the insight. A buddy of mine has the same cpu/cooler and is able to maintain temps <75c at a stable 4.1ghz. Our mobo's and cases are different but i don't think that would count for 15-20 degrees. Any thoughts as to why his temps are so much lower? He seems to think that I should have no problems hitting 4ghz with the 950/Hyper 212 combo.


Voltages? Try a second fan for push/pull maybe also?
Eh could be LLC putting the voltages up too.. Tried reseating the TIM? When i went from a Core 2 Duo E8500 to a Q9400 my temps didn't increase because i found out how to apply the TIM rather then just slapping it on..


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbrandon1*
> 
> Thanks for the insight. A buddy of mine has the same cpu/cooler and is able to maintain temps <75c at a stable 4.1ghz. Our mobo's and cases are different but i don't think that would count for 15-20 degrees. Any thoughts as to why his temps are so much lower? He seems to think that I should have no problems hitting 4ghz with the 950/Hyper 212 combo.


Most probably the voltage is affecting your temperatures. TIM also affects too. Another thing is that every chip is different. Some may get low temps while others higher temps even with the same amount of voltage and overclock and the same other variables affecting temps. Ambient temps also play a big role.


----------



## TheSandman

forgot i need proof lol


----------



## TheSandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbrandon1*
> 
> Thanks for the insight. A buddy of mine has the same cpu/cooler and is able to maintain temps <75c at a stable 4.1ghz. Our mobo's and cases are different but i don't think that would count for 15-20 degrees. Any thoughts as to why his temps are so much lower? He seems to think that I should have no problems hitting 4ghz with the 950/Hyper 212 combo.


dunno but your cables are everywhere that can affect it greatly


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSandman*
> 
> dunno but your cables are everywhere that can affect it greatly


Which reminds me i need to have a look at my cable management tomorrow! :s
I can't really do much which annoys me, and if i'm still right i'll be getting a digital camera and i'll take some nice shots of my cable mangement/HAF/setup.

Along with the dust filters! (;


----------



## klewlis1

What do i need to do to join and can i join if i use the EVO????


----------



## chinesethunda

yes you can join, post up a pic of your cooler! added you though


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> yes you can join, post up a pic of your cooler! added you though


Oh wow, i didn't realize that you actually add people.. Unlike some of the other clubs/owners lounges.. Not trying to point any fingers or anything!
Thanks however!


----------



## TheYonderGod

I just finally got mine yesterday







My temps went down almost 20 degrees, and then I overclocked some more and they're still down like 10 degrees from the stock heatsink. Picture is in my sig rig.

I was wondering, would it be a good idea to push the fan down so it's partly blowing under the heatsink onto my mofset heatsinks?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> I just finally got mine yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My temps went down almost 20 degrees, and then I overclocked some more and they're still down like 10 degrees from the stock heatsink. Picture is in my sig rig.
> I was wondering, would it be a good idea to push the fan down so it's partly blowing under the heatsink onto my mofset heatsinks?


Yep! I can't see you losing much from doing that! I've thought of this before.. But shamefully my board's heatsyncs are too bulky and don't allow me to.. It's fine though! I may be mounting a blower in there sooner or later.


----------



## celticguardian1

Hi, I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus with a 3500rpm straped onto it. Keeping my overclocked i7 875k at 25c idle and 40c load:thumb:


----------



## kbrandon1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Most probably the voltage is affecting your temperatures. TIM also affects too. Another thing is that every chip is different. Some may get low temps while others higher temps even with the same amount of voltage and overclock and the same other variables affecting temps. Ambient temps also play a big role.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Voltages? Try a second fan for push/pull maybe also?
> Eh could be LLC putting the voltages up too.. Tried reseating the TIM? When i went from a Core 2 Duo E8500 to a Q9400 my temps didn't increase because i found out how to apply the TIM rather then just slapping it on..


Thanks! It was the voltage and not the cooler. My temps are in the high 60s @ 4.0ghz now using IBT on max setting.


----------



## kbrandon1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSandman*
> 
> dunno but your cables are everywhere that can affect it greatly


dang, i thought i did a pretty good job to say its my first build and a mid tower case. it looks much cleaner in person







. air flow seems to be decent tho.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbrandon1*
> 
> dang, i thought i did a pretty good job to say its my first build and a mid tower case. it looks much cleaner in person
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . air flow seems to be decent tho.


I really need to re-do my cable management... Mum got me a pack of gromit things from the reject shop.. Theres only 2 black ones in a pack so i'll get her to get some more!









I'm happy to say my Hyper 212+ with dual fans REALLY does help keep the hot air away from the graphics cards, might see if i can get a tower style cooler for one of my graphics cards.

Might try and refine the voltages on the cards too, see if that makes alot of difference. Just out of curiosity what were your old temps/settings and new temps/settings?


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Well, it's been a year since I did the build, and I'm still going strong with it. I had my rig overclocked to over 4ghz, but I pulled it back a tad when summer hit and didn't like where the temperatures were holding.


----------



## experience333

IMG_0218.JPG 2247k .JPG file











A little blurry, but you can see it's a Hyper 212+

It has two Scythe 3k rpm fans, 120x120x38

OC to 4.2GHz @ ~1.288 vcore with the intel variable thing.

Cable management looks bad, but in real life it's not. The camera quality makes it look really bad.

EDIT: tinypic jpeg for less hassle


----------



## jamor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> What is everyone idling at and what program do you use for temperature?
> My BIOS tells me I'm idling at 42c CPU and 25c MOBO.
> I'm reading a lot of 30c CPU idle temps so I think I did something wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But most importantly I POSTed my first PC build ever today


Update:

I updated my BIOS and now I am reading 24-26C CPU and 27C MOBO.

Before it was reading 42c so I'm happy now.

I'll get an ambient temp once I'm done installing drivers and programs.


----------



## jamor

The Asus Monitor says the CPU is 18-19C after I finished installing all of the important drivers.

And on load its around 30C give or take a few degrees.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> The Asus Monitor says the CPU is 18-19C after I finished installing all of the important drivers.
> And on load its around 30C give or take a few degrees.


Can you test this theory? That seems really low...

'cause my Core 2 Quad idles at like 35c... Which runs cooler then your i5 2500k, is it overclocked at all?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> The Asus Monitor says the CPU is 18-19C after I finished installing all of the important drivers.
> And on load its around 30C give or take a few degrees.


Do not trust the Asus Monitor. Its temperature readings are way off. Use Real Temp.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Can you test this theory? That seems really low...
> 'cause my Core 2 Quad idles at like 35c... Which runs cooler then your i5 2500k, is it overclocked at all?


It's the software that is reading the temperatures wrongly.


----------



## TechT99

Add me please....







...Running two GELID Solutions FN-PX12-15 120mm Fans with Intelligent PWM control(push/pull config)


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechT99*
> 
> Add me please....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...Running two GELID Solutions FN-PX12-15 120mm Fans with Intelligent PWM control(push/pull config)


Very clean build you got going on there man, nice work. Now if you would light it up a little then it'd be perfect. Just saying.


----------



## ranviper

Got mine for christmas! =)


----------



## chinesethunda

added you 2 new people. nice rigs


----------



## Mackem

Just to ask guys, how much exactly should I tighten my 212 EVO? I think I may have tightened it too much last time as the computer wouldn't boot (Fan was spinning, CPU_LED on Asus mobo was lit up, booted fine when stock heatsink installed)


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> added you 2 new people. nice rigs


Thanks!


----------



## ranviper

The Signature isn't working for some reason. Any ideas?


----------



## jamor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Do not trust the Asus Monitor. Its temperature readings are way off. Use Real Temp.


*Cool Down Test and Idle Temps*



*Prime 95 Stress Test:*


----------



## TwiggLe

Hey I just got my CM Hyper 212+ today. I got it all installed with the stock fan and a 2nd fan on the back puling the air through..

My old XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 gave me no issues (replaced cause I got the CM 212+ really cheap plus it mounted in the correct position without an extra $10 part.) CoreTemp and CPU-Tweaker both would read the temps and from what I could tell where accurate.

Now I get a 0 (?) on CoreTemp and a 0 on CPU-Tweaker..

Any ideas?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jamor*
> 
> *Cool Down Test and Idle Temps*
> 
> *Prime 95 Stress Test:*


Nice. What's your ambient??


----------



## Vanacloud

Did you installed it correctly? Whats your method of putting on the paste? Did you plug in the fan to CPU_Fan?


----------



## Supper

so i just replaced my hyper 212+ with h100... do i still part of this club?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supper*
> 
> so i just replaced my hyper 212+ with h100... do i still part of this club?


Just don't tell them!









I'd assume so seeing as you have experience with it, and anyways you still do own one. You just don't use it!


----------



## TechT99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Very clean build you got going on there man, nice work. Now if you would light it up a little then it'd be perfect. Just saying.


Trust me it lights up...I've got 4 led fans and UV cold-cathodes







. Couple of more pics and quality is ok.

*Cable management - non modular or modified psu*


*Inside case* 8)


----------



## TechT99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> added you 2 new people. nice rigs


Thanks chinesethunda, already added to sig.


----------



## chinesethunda

not sure whats wrong with the sig, anyone figure it out?


----------



## wongwarren

So I finally got some time to do my second round of testing on this heat sink. This time I'm testing on my new processor. The last time I tested was with an E5200 at 3.84GHz. Temperatures on the previous testing was at 65C under full load with an ambient of 22C. Now that I've upgraded to a 2500K, naturally it means some overclocking and second round of testing. My 2500K is clocked at 4.6GHz with a vCore of 1.305 in the bios and 100 runs of Intel Burn Test never saw anything above 1.32 according to CPU-Z. Temperature on the hottest core never broke 76C with the same ambient. Average temperature across all four cores never went higher than 72.25C. Sadly I forgot to take screenshot, but will do when I find the time to screenshot again.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> not sure whats wrong with the sig, anyone figure it out?


I fixed it myself a while back.

Code:



Code:


[center][url="http://www.overclock.net/t/632591/cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-club"][B]Cooler Master Hyper 212+ Club[/B][/url][/center]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> So I finally got some time to do my second round of testing on this heat sink. This time I'm testing on my new processor. The last time I tested was with an E5200 at 3.84GHz. Temperatures on the previous testing was at 65C under full load with an ambient of 22C. Now that I've upgraded to a 2500K, naturally it means some overclocking and second round of testing. My 2500K is clocked at 4.6GHz with a vCore of 1.305 in the bios and 100 runs of Intel Burn Test never saw anything above 1.32 according to CPU-Z. Temperature on the hottest core never broke 76C with the same ambient. Average temperature across all four cores never went higher than 72.25C. Sadly I forgot to take screenshot, but will do when I find the time to screenshot again.


Nice! Quite high temperatures for a E5200? Or is that expected from such a large overclock? I've never have expected that dual core to run that warm on this cooler!


----------



## Matt-Matt

Woops, can someone delete this plz?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> I fixed it myself a while back.
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [center][url="http://www.overclock.net/t/632591/cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-club"][B]Cooler Master Hyper 212+ Club[/B][/url][/center]
> 
> Nice! Quite high temperatures for a E5200? Or is that expected from such a large overclock? I've never have expected that dual core to run that warm on this cooler!


I don't know. I don't really mind as long as the temperatures are in check. It's a thing of the past by the way, and I forgot my voltage on it, but I do remember it is the harder to overclock revision.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I don't know. I don't really mind as long as the temperatures are in check. It's a thing of the past by the way, and I forgot my voltage on it, but I do remember it is the harder to overclock revision.


Oh okay fair enough, i just didn't think it'd be that crazily high!

Good job nevertheless!


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Oh okay fair enough, i just didn't think it'd be that crazily high!
> Good job nevertheless!


Ahh!! Now I recall, it took me 1.344 vCore in the bios to reach 3.84GHz.


----------



## chinesethunda

thanks for the link


----------



## TwiggLe

Figured out my issues...
My 4th core was unlocked and I don't get temp readings.

Locked it again and now I'm good.

Idle temps about 20-23c.
Full load under prime95 12 hour run was 33c.

Edit: Actually looking at my logs from last night...
My idle temp got all the way down to 18c.


----------



## ivymaxwell




----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Hay Ivy, if I'm right and your camera isn't misleading me, looks like you could fix the wiring up a bit? I know your probably new, but you would want to use that case's unique cable routing feature to make it all pretty, right?

I may post new pics of my rig tomorrow or something. I just need to find a camera that isn't my phone


----------



## 110110101

I built a new setup and put one of the evo version coolers in my case earlier today, but the temperatures that I'm experiencing seem quite off. I'm getting around 32C Idle at 700rpm, but the temperature goes up past 80C at 1800rpm after just a few minutes of running Prime95. I haven't attempted to overclock yet, so I'm currently just using the stock voltage and frequency settings. Any tips would be appreciated, as I feel the temps are too high.

Edit- reseated, and the temps now do not go above 52C on Prime95


----------



## Blackout621

Question guys... I want to add dual fans to mine... does anyone know any fans that are BLUE or have blue LEDS? Wanna match my case.

Thanks!


----------



## arc1880

I purchased a Hyper 212 Evo last month and I've decided to go with a push and pull configuration. One thing that I am having a hard time with is trying to mount the second set of brackets to another fan. When they are mounted they are too far apart to clip on the heatsink. Is this the correct mount? I purchased the cooler at a local retailer brand new.


----------



## 110110101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arc1880*
> 
> I purchased a Hyper 212 Evo last month and I've decided to go with a push and pull configuration. One thing that I am having a hard time with is trying to mount the second set of brackets to another fan. When they are mounted they are too far apart to clip on the heatsink. Is this the correct mount? I purchased the cooler at a local retailer brand new.


Those seem to be the correct brackets, but look wider than the ones I received in my 212 box from newegg recently.
Edit- These are the ones I got in my box

Sorry for the quality, my phone is the only camera I've got.


----------



## arc1880

These are wider and cannot clip onto the heatsink properly.


----------



## klewlis1

Here is a pic of My 212 EVO with 2 ULTRA KASE in push/pull with the spaces between the fan and cooler taped off and the sides taped off.


----------



## discoprince

anyone notice the stock fan makes what i can best describe as "bearing noise"?


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arc1880*
> 
> I purchased a Hyper 212 Evo last month and I've decided to go with a push and pull configuration. One thing that I am having a hard time with is trying to mount the second set of brackets to another fan. When they are mounted they are too far apart to clip on the heatsink. Is this the correct mount? I purchased the cooler at a local retailer brand new.


Yeah those holes are further from the side that the ones that came with mine. You could always mount your fans with zip ties, stick the zip tie through 1 fan hole, through the heatsink, and then through the other fan hole, and then put another ziptie on the end to hold the first one on. Sorry I'm not good at explaining things, like this: http://www.overclock.net/t/715128/how-to-use-zip-ties-as-fan-clips


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discoprince*
> 
> anyone notice the stock fan makes what i can best describe as "bearing noise"?


Yes, i used to just lightly tap the side of my case to make it go away for a couple of hours. It's very annoying.. :/


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discoprince*
> 
> anyone notice the stock fan makes what i can best describe as "bearing noise"?


My stock fan doesn't. Mine's whisper quiet unless I do some CPU intensive things but it definitely doesn't make bearing noise. In fact I have two of them in push pull.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *discoprince*
> 
> anyone notice the stock fan makes what i can best describe as "bearing noise"?
> 
> 
> 
> My stock fan doesn't. Mine's whisper quiet unless I do some CPU intensive things but it definitely doesn't make bearing noise. In fact I have two of them in push pull.
Click to expand...

Mines was facing down, as i've got it put in pushing up as the hot air rises in theory. I don't know if it's anymore effective over mounting it the other way.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Mines was facing down, as i've got it put in pushing up as the hot air rises in theory. I don't know if it's anymore effective over mounting it the other way.


No difference to be honest with ya.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> No difference to be honest with ya.


Yeah, but i think it's more wear on the fan facing down.. Doesn't matter for me anyway. Just saying maybe that's where the clicking noise is/was coming from?


----------



## thx1138

What do you guys think of this stack? I used to run UK3K's in push pull without the shrouds but I got tired of adjusting them on my fan controller whenever I wanted silence or gaming mode. Now I just run the generic CM fans on full which is like 1000rpm but with the shrouds and tape my temps actually dropped 5c compared to the UK3K's AND it's quieter. Win-win. I love everything about this cooler from the price to the mounting system.


----------



## chinesethunda

i bet if you had it facing the back without a rear fan you would get better temps


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> What do you guys think of this stack? I used to run UK3K's in push pull without the shrouds but I got tired of adjusting them on my fan controller whenever I wanted silence or gaming mode. Now I just run the generic CM fans on full which is like 1000rpm but with the shrouds and tape my temps actually dropped 5c compared to the UK3K's AND it's quieter. Win-win. I love everything about this cooler from the price to the mounting system.


that's going to be very starved for air, and since it's pulling off a hot card, you'll see a marked increase in cpu temps.


----------



## thx1138

It's really not that bad. I know what I'm doing...


----------



## Moneo

Mine, but I'm waiting on a second blade master for push/pull.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> It's really not that bad. I know what I'm doing...


that's actually not that bad at all. I was expecting higher temps. your air flow must be exemplary.

I did a little maintenance on my system just now including applying a fresh layer of TIM, and cut a new 120mm hole in the side.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> that's actually not that bad at all. I was expecting higher temps. your air flow must be exemplary.
> I did a little maintenance on my system just now including applying a fresh layer of TIM, and cut a new 120mm hole in the side.


I see you're pulling air. Any reason??


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> that's actually not that bad at all. I was expecting higher temps. your air flow must be exemplary.
> I did a little maintenance on my system just now including applying a fresh layer of TIM, and cut a new 120mm hole in the side.


Well I do have a HAF which is the definition of exemplary airflow with the down side of it collecting dust like you wouldn't believe. Since I was bored and curious I decided to re-arrange the hsf to go front to back. I pretty much re-built the whole computer since I had to take out the mobo to get to the mounting because the hole in the mobo try doesnt line up with my mobo's cpu mounting. Cleaned out all the dust, replaced thermal paste on the NB and cleaned up some wires while I was at it. So far temps are still the same or even a little higher now but since I'm using as5 I will probably see a little drop after it goes through its curing phase.

As for your rig I definitely wouldn't be comfortable having the hot air from the cpu blow into my psu. Also, from my own testing, a single fan pulling always performs worse than the same fan pushing. This was true on both my H50 and the 212+. Why don't you have yours going front to back? Also try taping the gap between fan and hs, it dropped my temps another 3c. I did mine about a year ago and thought I was clever, now I see everyone taping theirs


----------



## ayushttttt

hello
i just wanted to know the minimum psu requirement for cooler master 212 hyper evo
mobo- gigabyte 890 fxa ud7cpu - amd phenom II x6 1090t
psu - corsair GS600
case - corsair carbide 400 r

i have a posu of 600w and running amd card
will i be able to run a water cooler tooooo...

please help
thanxx !!!!


----------



## thx1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ayushttttt*
> 
> hello
> i just wanted to know the minimum psu requirement for cooler master 212 hyper evo
> mobo- gigabyte 890 fxa ud7cpu - amd phenom II x6 1090t
> psu - corsair GS600
> case - corsair carbide 400 r
> i have a posu of 600w and running amd card
> will i be able to run a water cooler tooooo...
> please help
> thanxx !!!!


There really isnt a requirement for an air cooler you just have to make sure you have a 3 pin available for each fan.


----------



## justanewguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> that's actually not that bad at all. I was expecting higher temps. your air flow must be exemplary.
> I did a little maintenance on my system just now including applying a fresh layer of TIM, and cut a new 120mm hole in the side.


erm well...a bit strange

please tell me how the cpu fan is mounted


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanewguy*
> 
> erm well...a bit strange
> please tell me how the cpu fan is mounted


Looking at the direction of the arrow on the fan, not the one you drew but the one on the fan itself, if I'm not wrong, it is blowing upwards.


----------



## justanewguy

hehe missed the arrow on the fan, i was just confused.


----------



## Rezze23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *discoprince*
> 
> anyone notice the stock fan makes what i can best describe as "bearing noise"?


My fan is also making a bearing/whining noise, making it the second loudest part in my case while not even being stressed. I really want to find a great silent replacement, anyone have any recommendations? I keep hearing to get Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15? or just get the same stock fan and hope the whine doesn't come back?


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> please tell me how the cpu fan is mounted


There are two fans on the side pulling air in, the cooler fan is pulling upwards, exhausting towards the psu, and the psu exhausts air out the top. the psu itself is getting a mix of fresh air and exhaust air, due to the fact that there's enough vents/holes in the case to let any excess pressure escape. keep in mind, this is with an i5 760 oc'd to 4ghz with fans at 80%

both the vid and cpu sinks are getting fresh air, and my idle temps are about 34 C (12 C above ambient) and load with p95 is about 65C
Quote:


> I see you're pulling air. Any reason??


after trying both a push and pull config using a scythe high speed slipstream, i settled on the pull config because i found that it had a 1-2c drop below push.
Quote:


> Why don't you have yours going front to back?


because of the phase transition properties of the heatpipe. they always work better when the heat location is either at the same or lower height than the cold location.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rezze23*
> 
> My fan is also making a bearing/whining noise, making it the second loudest part in my case while not even being stressed. I really want to find a great silent replacement, anyone have any recommendations? I keep hearing to get Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15? or just get the same stock fan and hope the whine doesn't come back?


Well don't get another fan the same. Try re-mounting it sideways rather then downwards if you have it facing downwards (so it's pushing hot air upwards).
I've found these a great replacement. Since writing I've set up fan control to idle them at 10%. Which is still quite fast but inaudible for the most part. They also match the theme of my case!
If you don't have a red/no LED theme don't get them however.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> There are two fans on the side pulling air in, the cooler fan is pulling upwards, exhausting towards the psu, and the psu exhausts air out the top. the psu itself is getting a mix of fresh air and exhaust air, due to the fact that there's enough vents/holes in the case to let any excess pressure escape. keep in mind, this is with an i5 760 oc'd to 4ghz with fans at 80%
> both the vid and cpu sinks are getting fresh air, and my idle temps are about 34 C (12 C above ambient) and load with p95 is about 65C
> after trying both a push and pull config using a scythe high speed slipstream, i settled on the pull config because i found that it had a 1-2c drop below push.
> because of the phase transition properties of the heatpipe. they always work better when the heat location is either at the same or lower height than the cold location.


Every fan is different. You should try out the stock fan on push and pull configurations too.


----------



## klewlis1

Lapping a 212 EVO, is it possible to lap a heatpipe heatsink, i was just wondering if it was possible and how hard it would be. It looks like the sandpaper would get caught on the rough edges of the Hyper 212 evo.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klewlis1*
> 
> Lapping a 212 EVO, is it possible to lap a heatpipe heatsink, i was just wondering if it was possible and how hard it would be. It looks like the sandpaper would get caught on the rough edges of the Hyper 212 evo.


I advice you not to lap the heat pipes of a heat sink.


----------



## boogschd

no more P/P configuration :/


----------



## Moneo

How big of a change in temps?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boogschd*
> 
> 
> no more P/P configuration :/


Wow that really sucks, can't mount it upwards?

If i get a memory cooler i think mine will fit with the two fans, i dunno..


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Every fan is different. You should try out the stock fan on push and pull configurations too.


true enough. I'm still going through the list of fans available (never SEEN so many fans!), and i've narrowed it down to a few (GT's, akasas and cougars). When I've decided, I'll do research into how well they run with the two cases I am comparing.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> true enough. I'm still going through the list of fans available (never SEEN so many fans!), and i've narrowed it down to a few (GT's, akasas and cougars). When I've decided, I'll do research into how well they run with the two cases I am comparing.


No need to replace the stock fan to be honest. The stock fan works amazing, at least with this heat sink.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

yeah i have absolutely no complaints with the blademaster. But the first hurdle i'm facing is what to fill the new case with. I might even try out some yate loons.


----------



## chinesethunda

the stock fan blademaster is actually better than the gt ap15s


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boogschd*
> 
> 
> no more P/P configuration :/


You could still do a p/p config if you flipped it facing up and down, rather than side to side, if having the top fan doesn't take to much room? look's like it'd be tight tho.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> the stock fan blademaster is actually better than the gt ap15s


AP14's (ap15's are too loud for my tastes) are going on intakes in the case

what about an ultra kaze 2000 rpm model, akasa apache blacks or yate loon D12SM's?


----------



## boogschd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moneo*
> 
> How big of a change in temps?


checked it last night .. didnt see any changes? ... or maybe about 1C difference








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Wow that really sucks, can't mount it upwards?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> You could still do a p/p config if you flipped it facing up and down, rather than side to side, if having the top fan doesn't take to much room? look's like it'd be tight tho.


hmm .. will probably try that some time







... probably when i do another cleaning session (#too lazy XD)


----------



## Xinoxide

Push pull with AFC1212DE's


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boogschd*
> 
> hmm .. will probably try that some time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... probably when i do another cleaning session (#too lazy XD)


Understandable. I try to open and dust my rig once every 2 weeks or so. If I see anything out of place then, or if I want to add or change stuff, that's usually the time it gets done.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> Understandable. I try to open and dust my rig once every 2 weeks or so. If I see anything out of place then, or if I want to add or change stuff, that's usually the time it gets done.


Same before i went Crossfire, got more fans and added dust filters!

I haven't touched it since i mounted my last fan!







Only pulled the dust filters off for cleaning!


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Same before i went Crossfire, got more fans and added dust filters!
> I haven't touched it since i mounted my last fan!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only pulled the dust filters off for cleaning!


Nice nice. I have a dust filter at my PSU, and one in the front of my case, and no need for them at my exhaust fans, the only place dust gets in is at my side panel fan, and though minimal (it's well filtered by just the texture of the mount where it is) I still like to get the little bit that does make it in, out.


----------



## Rezze23

Could anyone explain why my hyper is constantly revving up and down? Even while not even doing anything intensive on my pc ( browsing the web) the fan will speed up and down over and over. I have been monitoring the temps which would explain something, but they barely even fluctuate 33-36C.....I would understand if it speed up for >45C but its not getting that hot. ETS smart has the fan set at 28%@ 28C, but this thing is by far the loudest part in my case. I really think this fan is messed up because people mention the hyper212+ is normally quite. But im about ready to rip this fan out and and find a replacement...or even cooler.

Sorry I am a noob with coolers ect.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rezze23*
> 
> Could anyone explain why my hyper is constantly revving up and down? Even while not even doing anything intensive on my pc ( browsing the web) the fan will speed up and down over and over. I have been monitoring the temps which would explain something, but they barely even fluctuate 33-36C.....I would understand if it speed up for >45C but its not getting that hot. ETS smart has the fan set at 28%@ 28C, but this thing is by far the loudest part in my case. I really think this fan is messed up because people mention the hyper212+ is normally quite. But im about ready to rip this fan out and and find a replacement...or even cooler.
> Sorry I am a noob with coolers ect.


Maybe it's just a faulty fan??


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rezze23*
> 
> Could anyone explain why my hyper is constantly revving up and down? Even while not even doing anything intensive on my pc ( browsing the web) the fan will speed up and down over and over. I have been monitoring the temps which would explain something, but they barely even fluctuate 33-36C.....I would understand if it speed up for >45C but its not getting that hot. ETS smart has the fan set at 28%@ 28C, but this thing is by far the loudest part in my case. I really think this fan is messed up because people mention the hyper212+ is normally quite. But im about ready to rip this fan out and and find a replacement...or even cooler.
> 
> Sorry I am a noob with coolers ect.


Sounds like a dodgy fan mate, a friends does this on startup so it's kinda normal for startup.

I'd either send it back and try for a replacement, or just buy a better fan.


----------



## Rezze23

After downloading SpeedFan I noticed a changed in sound, but what doesn't make sense is that I have the fan to going at 95% with only 760 RPM with temps in the low 30's, im liking the decreased noise, but should the RPM's be that low at 95%?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rezze23*
> 
> After downloading SpeedFan I noticed a changed in sound, but what doesn't make sense is that I have the fan to going at 95% with only 760 RPM with temps in the low 30's, im liking the decreased noise, but should the RPM's be that low at 95%?


Dodgy fan, as i said. RMA it..


----------



## GAMERIG

_Click_~>*20th ANNIVERSARY*!!!


----------



## Captain Mayhem

sent mine in!

update: they approved it.


----------



## martthefart

martyn.jpg 551k .jpg file

hi all just got myself a 212 evo what u all think of temps had problem with the 1 back plate nut no hole in it lol and no flat spot on 3 of the studs then i had to tighten down a little bit on the screws by holding nut on back ? will i after reapply the paste or is the temps ok 1 test on intel burn on max tyvm martyn


----------



## breadcrums

add me


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breadcrums*
> 
> 
> 
> add me


Are you sure your fan is pointing in the right direction??


----------



## Supper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Are you sure your fan is pointing in the right direction??


i think maybe he sets up to suck air from the rear to provide the PSU with fresh air as well as the CPU cooler... and perhaps exhaust from the top...


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supper*
> 
> i think maybe he sets up to suck air from the rear to provide the PSU with fresh air as well as the CPU cooler... and perhaps exhaust from the top...


Looks to me like his rear fan is exhausting.


----------



## Compunuts

Hmm, can I join the club? Im also planning to implement the push&pull system.









*Photo taken by iPhone3G S


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

OMG! Your so right!

And guess who has a Hyper 212+ in push/ pull config? You do!.

On a serious note, you had the hardware to test it. Go for it.


----------



## chinesethunda

Compunuts added

@thx1138
nd no i don't think it would draw enough air for that to work, and second you would just be dumping hot air back into the case to be sucked back into the heat sink


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> Hmmm looking at breadcrums gave me an idea, what if I were to set up the fans so they both blow away from the heatsink as shown? Don't just say it would be starved for air, it would basically force cold air to go through the sides and out the fans. I know it's a dumb idea but maybe it's just dumb enough to work. Someone try it


Good idea, Maybe have a fan on one side, therefore if pulls more air in?

I can't really test either, heat-sync is mounted the wrong orientation, and i really can't be stuffed. I get good temps as is anyway!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> Hmmm looking at breadcrums gave me an idea, what if I were to set up the fans so they both blow away from the heatsink as shown? Don't just say it would be starved for air, it would basically force cold air to go through the sides and out the fans. I know it's a dumb idea but maybe it's just dumb enough to work. Someone try it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> Compunuts added
> @thx1138
> nd no i don't think it would draw enough air for that to work, and second you would just be dumping hot air back into the case to be sucked back into the heat sink


Yeah, this too. If it was setup right it could be good!


----------



## breadcrums

i fan setup is like this.

rear intake

bottom intake.

hyoer212+ fans configured for back to front flow.

front top and bottom exhaust.


----------



## crazyreefa

i have a hyper 212+ with two coolermaster r4 blue led fans..push/pull config.
im getting 45C on idle and 52C with prime95 blend on for about 15 minutes.
i feel my temps are higher than it should be. any recommendations? i have a core 2 quad q8200 on stock speed


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyreefa*
> 
> i have a hyper 212+ with two coolermaster r4 blue led fans..push/pull config.
> im getting 45C on idle and 52C with prime95 blend on for about 15 minutes.
> i feel my temps are higher than it should be. any recommendations? i have a core 2 quad q8200 on stock speed


What's your ambient??


----------



## kpreet1996

add me in!!! i have upgraded the fans to CM blue led fans and install two of them!!!


----------



## Mackem

Right, so which way should I orientate my fan? I have a 2500K and the 212 EVO is going in my Corsair 400R case. I have the two 120mm fans in the front and the 1 120mm fan in the back that came with the case but I then added two 140mm fans on the side as an intake as well as two 140mm fans on the top for exhaust, so in total I have 4 fans intaking air and 3 exhausting.

Thanks.


----------



## chinesethunda

point them towards the back


----------



## chinesethunda

kpreet1996 added, nice sickleflows, I have a bunch of those, I might test to see if they are better than the blademasters in my test that I am doing soon with the Hyper 212+


----------



## crazyreefa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyreefa*
> 
> i have a hyper 212+ with two coolermaster r4 blue led fans..push/pull config.
> im getting 45C on idle and 52C with prime95 blend on for about 15 minutes.
> i feel my temps are higher than it should be. any recommendations? i have a core 2 quad q8200 on stock speed


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> What's your ambient??


Forgot to mention my ambient is 20C. Is it because my case has bad air flow? Or I didn't apply the TIM correctly

Here are my pics. I have two sickle flow blue led fans


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyreefa*
> 
> Forgot to mention my ambient is 20C. Is it because my case has bad air flow? Or I didn't apply the TIM correctly
> Here are my pics. I have two sickle flow blue led fans


Could be a bad temperature diode.. i know me E0 C2D E8500 was bad. (Stuck at 40c) most of the time.. Google around for your revision i guess.


----------



## llee8820

I just installed 212+ with an added 120mm fan for a push/pull effect. My temps are now 27 idle, 36 with orthos on for ~10min. Are those temps good?

I did use MX-2 thermal compound instead of the one that came with it, and probably didn't do the best job applying it on the HDT. My CPU is a Phenom x6 1055t.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llee8820*
> 
> I just installed 212+ with an added 120mm fan for a push/pull effect. My temps are now 27 idle, 36 with orthos on for ~10min. Are those temps good?
> I did use MX-2 thermal compound instead of the one that came with it, and probably didn't do the best job applying it on the HDT. My CPU is a Phenom x6 1055t.


That's really good! What's your ambient temperature and are you running stock?

I wouldn't reapply, it's never perfect


----------



## llee8820

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> That's really good! What's your ambient temperature and are you running stock?
> I wouldn't reapply, it's never perfect


My ambient right now is around 20-22C. It is at stock at 2.8, although with these temps I'm definitely look to push it much further.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llee8820*
> 
> My ambient right now is around 20-22C. It is at stock at 2.8, although with these temps I'm definitely look to push it much further.


Yeah, i have no idea what the ballpark overclock for a locked AMD processor is, as i generally work with unlocked ones









Maximum temperature is around the 60c mark however!


----------



## llee8820

The second fan I added to my 212+ plus is an Antec 120mm fan I got on clearance at Microcenter. However it only has a molex adapter so it's currently plugged directly to my PSU. What I would like is to have both fan speeds controlled by my motherboard, but without an adapter for my Antec fan, I don't see this happening. I looked on Newegg and was wondering if this adapter could work? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248.

Edit: For some reason just clicking on the link won't work. Have to copy and paste it to bring it to the product page.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

spotted these guys while looking more into case/hsf fans. I have no idea how they will perform while undervolted, but i'm looking for a way to get ahold of them

http://www.nidecamerica.com/v12e_b5/v12e_b5_01.htm

27.7 mm/H2O on the lower model is just gross.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> kpreet1996 added, nice sickleflows, I have a bunch of those, I might test to see if they are better than the blademasters in my test that I am doing soon with the Hyper 212+


No they aren't in my testing. I tested the BladeMasters in PWM mode and the SickleFlows at full speed and my BladeMasters beat the SickleFlows without even going full speed. I can't imagine what BladeMasters at full speed is gonna do.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> spotted these guys while looking more into case/hsf fans. I have no idea how they will perform while undervolted, but i'm looking for a way to get ahold of them
> http://www.nidecamerica.com/v12e_b5/v12e_b5_01.htm
> 27.7 mm/H2O on the lower model is just gross.


Noise is also gross


----------



## chinesethunda

I am going to test the Blademasters versus the 2500 rpm sickleflows, I know they beat the 2000 rpm version because the blademaster has better static pressure, but at 2500 rpm i think the sickleflow might be better


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> I am going to test the Blademasters versus the 2500 rpm sickleflows, I know they beat the 2000 rpm version because the blademaster has better static pressure, but at 2500 rpm i think the sickleflow might be better


There are 2500RPM SickleFlows?? I didn't know that


----------



## Captain Mayhem

hey chinesethunda.. if you can get a hold of those nidecs i linked to, I'd love to see the results from that. I'm still not having any luck in pulling up anyone who sells it.

I have contacted Nidec about them, to see if they'd sell to me direct. Not sure what they're going to say though.


----------



## chinesethunda

not sure if id be able to get those either, the 2500 rpm sickleflows are older models and i got 6 of them for my rad, they are really loud though but the reason I like them is because they are ball bearing and doesn't vibrate like the regular 2000 rpm sickleflows when they are horizontal. I am about to test the blademasters vs 2500 rpm sickleflows and then horizontal vs vertical and push vs pull vs push pull again, just to make it cleaner, even though its in my sig for the push pull test


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llee8820*
> 
> The second fan I added to my 212+ plus is an Antec 120mm fan I got on clearance at Microcenter. However it only has a molex adapter so it's currently plugged directly to my PSU. What I would like is to have both fan speeds controlled by my motherboard, but without an adapter for my Antec fan, I don't see this happening. I looked on Newegg and was wondering if this adapter could work? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248.
> Edit: For some reason just clicking on the link won't work. Have to copy and paste it to bring it to the product page.


I don't think that would work, are you sure it's not a molex adapter on the end of the fan? I've never seen/heard of a fan with a direct molex plug before..

And it's 'cause the link has a full stop! Try to remember not to add that for next time


----------



## Matt-Matt

So, i read a thermal paste review! (Rather interesting actually). The writer suggested that rather then spending more money on better thermal paste, that we'd be better off lapping our CPU coolers. Especially if you have HDT..

Seeing as the 212+ is a HDT, i'm highly considering it.. What do you guys think?


----------



## chinesethunda

thats not a good idea because the pipes are already exposed, if you lap it just a little too much you will make a hole and all the fluids will leak out and ruin your heat sink, you can try and sand down the metal parts in the middle maybe if you can, but lapping the 212+ is not a good idea


----------



## llee8820

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> I don't think that would work, are you sure it's not a molex adapter on the end of the fan? I've never seen/heard of a fan with a direct molex plug before..
> And it's 'cause the link has a full stop! Try to remember not to add that for next time


Err, yes that's what I meant, a molex adapter. Sorry.


----------



## chinesethunda

im about to write up an AWESOME test I just did using the Hyper 212+ il link it in a bit when im done lol


----------



## chinesethunda

and here it is, make sure to look at it!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning


----------



## chrisys93

What are the best 120mm fans for the hyper 212 evo? I don't like the blademasters im using atm. I'm looking at the noctua's but they are damn ugly. Suggestions? No LED's please.


----------



## klewlis1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> So, i read a thermal paste review! (Rather interesting actually). The writer suggested that rather then spending more money on better thermal paste, that we'd be better off lapping our CPU coolers. Especially if you have HDT..
> Seeing as the 212+ is a HDT, i'm highly considering it.. What do you guys think?


You can lap the 212, you just need to be carefull, i just lapped mine last week along with my cpu, it lowered my temps 5-6 degrees. Its a bad pic but you get the idea.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisys93*
> 
> What are the best 120mm fans for the hyper 212 evo? I don't like the blademasters im using atm. I'm looking at the noctua's but they are damn ugly. Suggestions? No LED's please.


Any reason you don't like it?? It's the best fan for this heat sink really.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klewlis1*
> 
> You can lap the 212, you just need to be carefull, i just lapped mine last week along with my cpu, it lowered my temps 5-6 degrees. Its a bad pic but you get the idea.


Nice job. I can never have patience like that. I lapped my old E5200 to a mirror finish. No more patience to do my 2500K.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klewlis1*
> 
> You can lap the 212, you just need to be carefull, i just lapped mine last week along with my cpu, it lowered my temps 5-6 degrees. Its a bad pic but you get the idea.


wow really nice.

did you do it with 800-1200-1500-2000grit?


----------



## klewlis1

I started with 250 and worked my way up to 1500, using 400, 600, 800 and then 1500 at the end.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

250? geez, you got lucky. I wouldn't go any lower than 320 personally.


----------



## thx1138

Mine


----------



## Leito360

How could this thread survive without me?

Here is my proof. Hyper 212+.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thx1138*
> 
> Mine


Looks freaking amazing!
I should lap my cooler (i don't need to though)

For sure i'm not lapping the CPU though!


----------



## mrpurplehawk

I can join?


----------



## chinesethunda

added, I might lap mine in the future

make sure to check out the thread I made. last item in my thread


----------



## wongwarren

I might lap mine too.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I might lap mine too.


I might not yet, depends.

Does anyone want to do a writeup on it?


----------



## UserNameisTaken

well after almost 3 years on stock cooling my i7 920 is under a 212+ EVO and let's just be honest this was easily the best $25 I have ever spent!

Now maybe I'll actually try my hand at OC'ing my 920


----------



## breadcrums

could some1 kindly share their core and ambient temps at 4+ghz on an i5 760 with 212+.


----------



## apsve

Great thread guys, just thought I would add my 2 cents: Idling at ~8c, ~37c under load. I have an FX-6100 at 4.3ghz.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apsve*
> 
> Great thread guys, just thought I would add my 2 cents: Idling at ~8c, ~37c under load. I have an FX-6100 at 4.3ghz.


I love how those temperature nodes in AMD cpu's are ****ed up.


----------



## breadcrums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apsve*
> 
> Great thread guys, just thought I would add my 2 cents: Idling at ~8c, ~37c under load. I have an FX-6100 at 4.3ghz.


man,u need to verify your temps.what are u using to monitor yout temps?

and more importantly,what are yout ambient temps?

the cpu CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+

i repeat,CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+!


----------



## justanewguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breadcrums*
> 
> man,u need to verify your temps.what are u using to monitor yout temps?
> and more importantly,what are yout ambient temps?
> 
> the cpu CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+
> i repeat,CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+!


actually it doesnt matter which heatsink, cause its the same result with any heatsink.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breadcrums*
> 
> man,u need to verify your temps.what are u using to monitor yout temps?
> and more importantly,what are yout ambient temps?
> 
> the cpu CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+
> i repeat,CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+!


I said temperature nodes on AMD cpu's are effed up.


----------



## breadcrums

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanewguy*
> 
> actually it doesnt matter which heatsink, cause its the same result with any heatsink.


i mentioned that cause one can achieve lower temps with liquid nitrogen,dry ice,phase change 

either case,8C is ridiculous!


----------



## Chubz

Any tips for cleaning up the cables at the bottom? Looks bad. They are mainly unused cables, most of the others run behind the mobo.










i5-2500K idle


----------



## Derko1

I currently have 2 blademasters on my 212, but they are very load when at 100%. I'm looking for something that pushes roughly around the same air but quieter? Any suggestions?

I would need them to be PWM so that I can control them via speedfan.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chubz*
> 
> Any tips for cleaning up the cables at the bottom? Looks bad. They are mainly unused cables, most of the others run behind the mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5-2500K idle


Nice build there!
As for the power supply cables run them either behind the motheboard. (make sure it doesn't bulge the right side though)
Or tuck them all under the hard drive mounts, i did that with my half modular PSU.


----------



## OldMX

Installed mine yesterday replacing my old and trusty Hyper 212 non plus.

Will post pictures later, but great cooler


----------



## Chubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Nice build there!


Thanks


----------



## EmeraldICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UserNameisTaken*
> 
> well after almost 3 years on stock cooling my i7 920 is under a 212+ EVO and let's just be honest this was easily the best $25 I have ever spent!
> Now maybe I'll actually try my hand at OC'ing my 920


Where'd you find an EVO for $25?
I swear they were pretty cheap a week or so ago but now when I go looking to buy one they're around $45.

Is there a new revision out?
There's an EVO on amazon for $30
RR-212E-20PK-R1

but the one on Newegg is for $45.
RR-212E-20PK-R2


----------



## apsve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breadcrums*
> 
> man,u need to verify your temps.what are u using to monitor yout temps?
> and more importantly,what are yout ambient temps?
> 
> the cpu CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+
> i repeat,CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+!


I didn't realize the AMD sensors were known to be so brutal, I've been using CPUID Hardware Monitor and well as Core Temp to monitor it. I do have low ambient temps, but certainly not that low. Is there another way to get accurate temps on my cpu?

As you can see, my fans are not reporting accurately either, at least as far as the percentages go.


----------



## breadcrums

use real temp.

its the most accurate sw available.

for me speed fan was displaying inaccurate temps,i had to add a +14 diffefence for accurate temps i got from real temp.

on the other hand if you sensors are faulty in the first place,u cand do much :\

google your cpu for by how much its sensors are off.


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I love how those temperature nodes in AMD cpu's are ****ed up.


So are Intel's http://www.overclock.net/t/476469/the-truth-about-temperatures-and-voltages
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *breadcrums*
> 
> man,u need to verify your temps.what are u using to monitor yout temps?
> and more importantly,what are yout ambient temps?
> 
> the cpu CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+
> i repeat,CAN NOT be cooler than your room with a 212+!


http://www.overclock.net/t/476469/the-truth-about-temperatures-and-voltages


----------



## apsve

It appears as though AMD Overdrive gave me much more realistic temperatures. From ~20c at Idle to ~48c under torture test conditions.


----------



## UserNameisTaken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EmeraldICE*
> 
> Where'd you find an EVO for $25?
> I swear they were pretty cheap a week or so ago but now when I go looking to buy one they're around $45.
> Is there a new revision out?
> There's an EVO on amazon for $30
> RR-212E-20PK-R1
> but the one on Newegg is for $45.
> RR-212E-20PK-R2


I had a newegg promo that needed to be used $10 off any purchase, and at the time I purchased it was $34.99


----------



## am dew1

Just a heads up that Newegg has the 212+ for $19.99 (free shipping) on sale now with promo code EMCNJJC55 thru 1/18/2012.


----------



## Derko1

Can I join?









I get load temps of around 70C with a 1.41 vcore on my 2600k. Idle is under 30C.


----------



## breadcrums

70C at 1.41 vcore!

that is nice man!

i touch 80C with 1.34V!


----------



## chinesethunda

Derko1 added, very clean too


----------



## EmeraldICE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am dew1*
> 
> Just a heads up that Newegg has the 212+ for $19.99 (free shipping) on sale now with promo code EMCNJJC55 thru 1/18/2012.


Just got this email and just bought one!


----------



## -dynastyyy

Hey guys i got a question, when im tightening down the screws, how tight am i supposed to go? do i just go snug? cuz i got to wondering that when i did a test boot today on my new motherboard.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-dynastyyy*
> 
> Hey guys i got a question, when im tightening down the screws, how tight am i supposed to go? do i just go snug? cuz i got to wondering that when i did a test boot today on my new motherboard.


Go as tight as possible really, thats what mine are at, i re-mounted and going from a 65-95w CPU i only gained a few degrees


----------



## Maynard46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Go as tight as possible really, thats what mine are at, i re-mounted and going from a 65-95w CPU i only gained a few degrees


u sure about that? i was under the impression that you just need to make the screws snug and to not over tighten them

i have this fan too.
http://cdn.overclock.net/9/9a/9aa76646_IMG_1994.jpeg

dont mind the mess, its still under construction


----------



## TheYonderGod

I thought the screws would only go as tight as needed, I kept turning mine for a while and they weren't getting any tighter.


----------



## chinesethunda

mine are all the way and it still moves


----------



## Maynard46

anyone have a link to buy the 2nd fan? i cant find a part number or anything. I want to run a dual fan setup on this device


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> I thought the screws would only go as tight as needed, I kept turning mine for a while and they weren't getting any tighter.


Maybe the screws on the other side lost footing and began to turn too? If you don't hold the other side it will slip and not tighten anymore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maynard46*
> 
> anyone have a link to buy the 2nd fan? i cant find a part number or anything. I want to run a dual fan setup on this device


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-RSSDailyDeals-_-na-_-na&AID=10521304&PID=4176827&SID=1v3yezn493zv9


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> I thought the screws would only go as tight as needed, I kept turning mine for a while and they weren't getting any tighter.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maynard46*
> 
> u sure about that? i was under the impression that you just need to make the screws snug and to not over tighten them
> i have this fan too.
> http://cdn.overclock.net/9/9a/9aa76646_IMG_1994.jpeg
> dont mind the mess, its still under construction


Keep turning it till it's at the tightest notch.. Mine just got really hard to turn after a while.
I'm almost certain about this, just not too much (and don't go using a drill) lol


----------



## mkclan

Can I join? I am not oc my cpu, yet...


----------



## MichaelZERO

Can I join the club?


----------



## gr3nd3l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EmeraldICE*
> 
> Just got this email and just bought one!


I just ordered one as well. Can't wait for it to get here.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MichaelZERO*
> 
> Can I join the club?


added


----------



## Chubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chubz*
> 
> Any tips for cleaning up the cables at the bottom? Looks bad. They are mainly unused cables, most of the others run behind the mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i5-2500K idle


Add me please.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chubz*
> 
> Add me please.


added


----------



## Knust

I have a Phenom II x2 550BE all four cores unlocked, I was lightly overclocking it and stressing with prime 95. I was amazed at how fast the temp shot up with the stock cooler. Idle was 34c load with prime 95 I had to shut it off at 65c and climbing. I did quite a bit of research on coolers and thought the CM 212 plus looked like it was great for the price/performance. I installed the cooler idle temp is ambient 27-28c full load with prime 95 42c what a awesome cooler I am very pleased with it,and it fits in my case perfect.


----------



## gr3nd3l

Just finished installing mine on my old phenom II and my temps dropped at least 30 degrees









Can I join the club?


----------



## laser23

Could you please make it to include to hyper 212 evo owners like me, cos there is no evo club, and both heatsinks are so similar theres no point having 2 clubs.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laser23*
> 
> Could you please make it to include to hyper 212 evo owners like me, cos there is no evo club, and both heatsinks are so similar theres no point having 2 clubs.


It does include you guys.








If you read the first page!


----------



## martthefart

got to say a very big thnks to coolmaster got my 212 evo and 1 stud had no threads on it ,tryed the store sold out no returns for a while but i emailed coolmaster in holland and they sent me a new bracket and 4 studs for FREE ,thats wat i call customer service love it ty martyn


----------



## Maynard46

the fan that comes with the hyper 212....its got a 4 pin connector for the cpu fan controller on the mobo

So i have a 2nd one of these fans...can that 4 pin connector plug into a 3 pin slot on the mobo without any troubles?

Also...the 2nd fan should be used as an exhaust pointing towards the rear...correct?


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laser23*
> 
> Could you please make it to include to hyper 212 evo owners like me, cos there is no evo club, and both heatsinks are so similar theres no point having 2 clubs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gr3nd3l*
> 
> 
> Just finished installing mine on my old phenom II and my temps dropped at least 30 degrees
> Can I join the club?


added


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maynard46*
> 
> the fan that comes with the hyper 212....its got a 4 pin connector for the cpu fan controller on the mobo
> So i have a 2nd one of these fans...can that 4 pin connector plug into a 3 pin slot on the mobo without any troubles?
> Also...the 2nd fan should be used as an exhaust pointing towards the rear...correct?


If you look at the 4 pin fan, you'll see on one side it has some notches, basically this is if you want to use a 3 pin.. 3 of them will line up and it will click in (sort of).
This will run at full speed, unless you can do that in your bios? (I know it can be done, but I've never tried it)

Also that's correct, you want one to push (the one that came with it) and the second one to pull air out towards the back, that is unless the cooler is mounted sideways (like mine), and it's facing up. Then you'll want to have them both pull air up!


----------



## Whitehair

Can i join


----------



## laser23

Can I join the club?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whitehair*
> 
> Can i join


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laser23*
> 
> Can I join the club?


He'll probably add you soon(ish). Take the sig though!


----------



## Stanfiem

Here you go Im in what is this about the sig though I want to display the rep loud and proud!


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stanfiem*
> 
> Here you go Im in what is this about the sig though I want to display the rep loud and proud!


It was quoted a few pages back, but i'll copy mine!









Code:



Code:


[center][url="http://www.overclock.net/t/632591/cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-club"][B]Cooler Master Hyper 212+ Club[/B][/url][/center]


----------



## Caustic Fox

I picked up the CM 212+ very recently. Umm... was it just me or was clamping down the mounting bracket into the screw holes somewhat difficult for anyone else? Also the cooler still kinda moves (Though still very tightly fastened to the board.)


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caustic Fox*
> 
> I picked up the CM 212+ very recently. Umm... was it just me or was clamping down the mounting bracket into the screw holes somewhat difficult for anyone else? Also the cooler still kinda moves (Though still very tightly fastened to the board.)


That sounds about right, it barely moves though. Only if you push it with your hand?

Mine still does that, but leave it in the desired position (straight) and the thermal paste will set, therefore it will stick a bit. I'm fairly sure that's what happened with mine and why when i removed the cooler there was a massive patch that was still wet..


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whitehair*
> 
> Can i join


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laser23*
> 
> Can I join the club?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caustic Fox*
> 
> I picked up the CM 212+ very recently. Umm... was it just me or was clamping down the mounting bracket into the screw holes somewhat difficult for anyone else? Also the cooler still kinda moves (Though still very tightly fastened to the board.)


added all of you guys

remember if you don't see your name on there and you posted, shoot me a PM, sometimes I miss a few posts


----------



## Caustic Fox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> added all of you guys
> remember if you don't see your name on there and you posted, shoot me a PM, sometimes I miss a few posts


Thanks.


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caustic Fox*
> 
> I picked up the CM 212+ very recently. Umm... was it just me or was clamping down the mounting bracket into the screw holes somewhat difficult for anyone else? Also the cooler still kinda moves (Though still very tightly fastened to the board.)


Yea, that was the hardest part for me as well. I also had a tough time lining it up above the CPU so as to not have to move it around after setting it down on the CPU and disrupt the thermal compound too much. Apparently I got it done right since my idle temps are low 30sC and stressed temps in the low 60sC at 4.3 GHZ with my I5-2500K.


----------



## klewlis1

Wow, the list of groupies is growing pretty fast, theres alot of 212 owners out there. I'm glad to see all the supoport


----------



## Boyd




----------



## chinesethunda

looking sick, does the bottom fan actually help?
i woulda thought a fan behind the hdd cages would be better


----------



## Captain Mayhem

If any of you guys haven't checked out the Hyper212+ testing thread, now's the time to do it. I just updated it with another test.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> looking sick, does the bottom fan actually help?
> i woulda thought a fan behind the hdd cages would be better


Only things it did to my HAF were make noise and add a bottom LED.. No cooling difference whatsoever..


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Only things it did to my HAF were make noise and add a bottom LED.. No cooling difference whatsoever..


Your HAF is probably too big for the bottom fan to make much of a difference. His HAF is way smaller which makes the air travel much further into his case.


----------



## Thanos1972

Guys came up awith a crazy idea.
would it be usefull to solder 2 more heatpipes (with normal soldering wire) to the hyper 212+.
I have a cooler that was meant to be for a 8600 silent which has 2 heatpipes and fins.
Apparently the are going to get soldered at the top of the coolers base somewhere where the X thing is.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thanos1972*
> 
> Guys came up awith a crazy idea.
> would it be usefull to solder 2 more heatpipes (with normal soldering wire) to the hyper 212+.
> I have a cooler that was meant to be for a 8600 silent which has 2 heatpipes and fins.
> Apparently the are going to get soldered at the top of the coolers base somewhere where the X thing is.


Well you'd lose your warranty... Also you do understand how the coolers work yes? It's not just a chunk of metal.. It's got liquid in it. (I'm assuming you were just going to cut the other cooler)

My real question is where would you put it? There isn't exactly anywhere to place it. :s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Your HAF is probably too big for the bottom fan to make much of a difference. His HAF is way smaller which makes the air travel much further into his case.


Possibly so, i guess mine was in-front of all the power supply cables..


----------



## zomgiwin

grabbed me one of these a couple weeks ago, pretty cheap at frys
using the stock TIM... it's not the thermalfusion, but i forgot to pick up some other stoof, and its perfectly adequate, so meh, not worth the hassle of redoing the TIM atm.

i have push/pull r4s on there, at some point ima probably just put the blademaster back on and put the r4s on the case lol


----------



## zomgiwin

accidentaldoublepost.


----------



## Methodical

I have the CM 212 for my 1st build, except now it has a 2nd fan


----------



## chinesethunda

lol post your rig and il add you


----------



## itzhoovEr

Just bought the 212+ and I'll be pickg up some Arctic Silver ACN-60ML. What type of TIM should I buy? I have some random stuff from best buy I dont want to use.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Gelid GC2 seems to be working for me.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> Just bought the 212+ and I'll be pickg up some Arctic Silver ACN-60ML. What type of TIM should I buy? I have some random stuff from best buy I dont want to use.


Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> Just bought the 212+ and I'll be pickg up some Arctic Silver ACN-60ML. What type of TIM should I buy? I have some random stuff from best buy I dont want to use.


Use the stuff that came with it! While it's not the best, it's very good! I'd see how that goes first


----------



## chinesethunda

get some mx2 or something, the stuff it comes with sucks, its no longer the good kind


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> get some mx2 or something, the stuff it comes with sucks, its no longer the good kind


Ordered some tx-2 lastnight


----------



## nifatech2120

Got a Hyper 212 Plus.

I5 2500K 2 4.5GHZ 1.325V 34C idle 67C load.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nifatech2120*
> 
> Got a Hyper 212 Plus.
> I5 2500K 2 4.5GHZ 1.325V 34C idle 67C load.


added


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Use the stuff that came with it! While it's not the best, it's very good! I'd see how that goes first


I hear it isn't bad. A decent paste for what you pay, really. The heatsink is already a great value, and the paste just adds to that.


----------



## Marshmellow17

Add me to the list. Also got some questions about it...

I have an PhII 965 running at 3.8 and 1.39v. My ambient temp in 21c. My idle temp is 39-41 degrees, and I max out at 64-65 on prime. In game it goes no higher than 57. Are these "normal" temps or do I just have a warm chip?

I've reseated several times, reapplied pasted, and use the credit card method to spread it.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> I hear it isn't bad. A decent paste for what you pay, really. The heatsink is already a great value, and the paste just adds to that.


the old TIM it used to come with is pretty good, but the new TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ and probably the EVO is pretty bad imo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marshmellow17*
> 
> Add me to the list. Also got some questions about it...
> I have an PhII 965 running at 3.8 and 1.39v. My ambient temp in 21c. My idle temp is 39-41 degrees, and I max out at 64-65 on prime. In game it goes no higher than 57. Are these "normal" temps or do I just have a warm chip?
> I've reseated several times, reapplied pasted, and use the credit card method to spread it.


temps seem pretty normal


----------



## pel

I don`t know about 965 but recommended max temp on 955 it was 62 or 63 degree


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marshmellow17*
> 
> Add me to the list. Also got some questions about it...
> I have an PhII 965 running at 3.8 and 1.39v. My ambient temp in 21c. My idle temp is 39-41 degrees, and I max out at 64-65 on prime. In game it goes no higher than 57. Are these "normal" temps or do I just have a warm chip?
> I've reseated several times, reapplied pasted, and use the credit card method to spread it.


Sounds pretty good, for memory my friends 965 @ 3.8GHz was about the same temps in a DF35 case with the stock TIM.
Ah, well possibly AS5 but it wasn't applied right if it was!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> the old TIM it used to come with is pretty good, but the new TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+ and probably the EVO is pretty bad imo
> temps seem pretty normal


Yeah, i've got the old TIM. The one that came in the purple tube? Makes me wish i bought 2x of them at the time..


----------



## chinesethunda

yeah that was the stuff I think, but I lost it somewhere and it was never to be seen. So then I got some better TIM lol


----------



## itzhoovEr

Just got my 212+ and nzxt mesh fan controller and I must say ... had no clue it was going to be this massive.


----------



## Boinz

Could i please be added, i just got mine. Holy cow, temps have never been lower for me.

29C idle, and 49C on load on my current rig.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Could i please be added, i just got mine. Holy cow, temps have never been lower for me.
> 29C idle, and 49C on load on my current rig.


They're amazing temps!


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> Just got my 212+ and nzxt mesh fan controller and I must say ... had no clue it was going to be this massive.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Could i please be added, i just got mine. Holy cow, temps have never been lower for me.
> 29C idle, and 49C on load on my current rig.


both added


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> Just got my 212+ and nzxt mesh fan controller and I must say ... had no clue it was going to be this massive.


Uhh.. Nope.


----------



## RockThePylon

I added a Hyper212+ to my Xbox360, can I join the club?


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockThePylon*
> 
> I added a Hyper212+ to my Xbox360, can I join the club?


.... this i must say is a first for me. +1 to you sir and added for s&gs


----------



## jackblack644

How do you fit the 212+ in an Xbox??


----------



## RockThePylon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackblack644*
> 
> How do you fit the 212+ in an Xbox??


Well, right now it lives on a table top. But I dream of a day where I get my crap together and build a custom case for it.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1202603/hyper212-on-xbox360-heatsink-mod


----------



## the.grim.reaper

A really good cooler. 24/51 on the hottest core with push/pull blademasters on mine. Can I be added?


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

so i guess my 2 year old post was never added huh? hold on lemme get my pics out


----------



## dipanzan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Could i please be added, i just got mine. Holy cow, temps have never been lower for me.
> 29C idle, and 49C on load on my current rig.


Hehe, 1st post here.

I've a CoolerMaster 212+ as well, 28-29C idle, and 47C load.











Sorry for the quality, phone cam sucks.









Here's a screenshot:

IDLE:



LOAD:



Fan used is the default BladeMaster spinning at 67% ~1500RPM. Oh and I got the purple tube paste with the 212+, is it any good ? Oh, and I can't mount the 212+ in a vertical position. The way my 990FXA GD80 is positioned, it only allows to be mounted that way, I hear it's bad for the fans when mounted like this, the BladeMaster ?

I finally gave in and decided to post, great community here.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the.grim.reaper*
> 
> A really good cooler. 24/51 on the hottest core with push/pull blademasters on mine. Can I be added?


added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pentium4 531 overclocker*
> 
> so i guess my 2 year old post was never added huh? hold on lemme get my pics out


I wasn't the thread owner 2 years ago, sorry, but added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dipanzan*
> 
> Hehe, 1st post here.
> I've a CoolerMaster 212+ as well, 28-29C idle, and 47C load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the quality, phone cam sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a screenshot:
> IDLE:
> LOAD:
> Fan used is the default BladeMaster spinning at 67% ~1500RPM. Oh and I got the purple tube paste with the 212+, is it any good ? Oh, and I can't mount the 212+ in a vertical position. The way my 990FXA GD80 is positioned, it only allows to be mounted that way, I hear it's bad for the fans when mounted like this, the BladeMaster ?
> I finally gave in and decided to post, great community here.


also added


----------



## Maynard46

add me to the list


----------



## Maynard46

i was curious if anyone uses this fan and what your thoughts are?

http://www.xoxide.com/phobyanano-g12pwmledsilent-waterproof120mmcasefan.html

i want to add it to my 212 and its the only Red LED PWM fan i could find


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maynard46*
> 
> i was curious if anyone uses this fan and what your thoughts are?
> http://www.xoxide.com/phobyanano-g12pwmledsilent-waterproof120mmcasefan.html
> i want to add it to my 212 and its the only Red LED PWM fan i could find


Dont know if they're good or not but here is another thats a little cheaper.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103091


----------



## Maynard46

thats not a pwm fan though


----------



## chinesethunda

yeah but they are pretty good though, also Maynard46 added


----------



## laser23

Wow it rained for a couple of days here in Australia, and my temps have dropped dramatically form 38 to 29 degrees idle, and 58 to 52 degrees load. The ambient temps have dropped from 27-30 to 21-23 degrees here, so yeah im impressed.


----------



## chinesethunda

nice haha, always good when the temps go down


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laser23*
> 
> Wow it rained for a couple of days here in Australia, and my temps have dropped dramatically form 38 to 29 degrees idle, and 58 to 52 degrees load. The ambient temps have dropped from 27-30 to 21-23 degrees here, so yeah im impressed.


You're lucky .. its starting to heat up here in Texas


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laser23*
> 
> Wow it rained for a couple of days here in Australia, and my temps have dropped dramatically form 38 to 29 degrees idle, and 58 to 52 degrees load. The ambient temps have dropped from 27-30 to 21-23 degrees here, so yeah im impressed.


Same, in Tassie the temps droped about 8-10c at times! Especially load temps!









I'm happy that it's starting to get cooler!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maynard46*
> 
> i was curious if anyone uses this fan and what your thoughts are?
> http://www.xoxide.com/phobyanano-g12pwmledsilent-waterproof120mmcasefan.html
> i want to add it to my 212 and its the only Red LED PWM fan i could find


These are quite good, i have 2 in Push/Pull myself! I wrote up a brief overview here.

Note: Newegg don't stock these and i don't know where in the US does as i live in Australia. (Hence the Australian site)


----------



## chinesethunda

aren't the xtraflows just weaker versions of the blademaster? I mean they come with the EVO right?


----------



## dipanzan

Hey guys is it worth getting high performance fans for the 212+ ? Like for e.g Scythe Ultra Kaze 3K in push/pull, or the BladeMaster is good enough on its own, and would a second in push/pull give better results ?

The only problem is that it's PITA to clean the TIM off the base.









Thanks in advance


----------



## justanewguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dipanzan*
> 
> Hey guys is it worth getting high performance fans for the 212+ ? Like for e.g Scythe Ultra Kaze 3K in push/pull, or the BladeMaster is good enough on its own, and would a second in push/pull give better results ?
> The only problem is that it's PITA to clean the TIM off the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance


i would honestly say no just because they are loud, loud and loud.
but they move a lot of air, comparable to delta, san ace, nidec and whatnot else called as industrial used fan.

if you are an enthusiast and want to get the most performance, then get a few of them, otherwise get some blademasters. they are not that loud and move a good amount of air without penetrating your head as soon as you turn on your PC









push pull mostly gives you about 1-3°C


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> aren't the xtraflows just weaker versions of the blademaster? I mean they come with the EVO right?


The XtraFlo's have less static pressure but pushes more air by spinning faster which also makes them louder.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dipanzan*
> 
> Hey guys is it worth getting high performance fans for the 212+ ? Like for e.g Scythe Ultra Kaze 3K in push/pull, or the BladeMaster is good enough on its own, and would a second in push/pull give better results ?
> The only problem is that it's PITA to clean the TIM off the base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance


no its not worth it, getting a higher rpm fan, if you look at the last item in my sig, I did a test with a 2500rpm fan compared to the blademaster, barely better performance, even in push pull. just use the blademaster in pull or push/pull if you want another fan


----------



## am dew1

Does the 212+ come standard with the Blade Master fan or something else?

EDIT: My bad...I just looked at page one here.


----------



## mkclan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itzhoovEr*
> 
> You're lucky .. its starting to heat up here in Texas


heat is ok, we have -35°C


----------



## Lancerz

Looks like I'm a little late for the party


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> aren't the xtraflows just weaker versions of the blademaster? I mean they come with the EVO right?


I don't know, i have realised that going from the stock blademaster to two of the Xtra flo's gave me 1-2c difference.. They match my case theme though, looking at what comes with the Evo it seems like they do. They seem alright, they're quiet it you set them to be!


----------



## Fullmetalaj0

Could i use this without a second fan to push a i5 2500k to 4ghz?


----------



## crondable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fullmetalaj0*
> 
> Could i use this without a second fan to push a i5 2500k to 4ghz?


Absolutely. I have my 2500k running at 4.5Ghz with a single fan, max temp under load is 70C.


----------



## Fullmetalaj0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crondable*
> 
> Absolutely. I have my 2500k running at 4.5Ghz with a single fan, max temp under load is 70C.


Sounds good, just ordered one from newegg so ill prolly get it Wednesday : )

Edit: I suck at spelling


----------



## chinesethunda

Lol one fan and two fans don't differ much. Look at my test in the last item of my sig

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## Fullmetalaj0

So I also have a phantom, should I use this cooler blowing thru the heatsink and out the back of my case with the back fan as a exhaust?


----------



## itzhoovEr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fullmetalaj0*
> 
> So I also have a phantom, should I use this cooler blowing thru the heatsink and out the back of my case with the back fan as a exhaust?


Yes


----------



## Maynard46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Same, in Tassie the temps droped about 8-10c at times! Especially load temps!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm happy that it's starting to get cooler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are quite good, i have 2 in Push/Pull myself! I wrote up a brief overview here.
> Note: Newegg don't stock these and i don't know where in the US does as i live in Australia. (Hence the Australian site)


nice write up...i am hoping to get one of these this week. i dont need one, but i have a red theme and this is the only red pwn fan i can find


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maynard46*
> 
> nice write up...i am hoping to get one of these this week. i dont need one, but i have a red theme and this is the only red pwn fan i can find


I can see it in the side of my case, it looks pretty good and the PWM range is great. By default as i may or may not have said before or in the review they were a bit loud for idle, so i used Gigabyte ET6 to setup the fan profiles!


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Just overclocked my 2500k to 4.5 ghz, and I used intelburntest to find what temps I am running. Under extreme, I got my cores were 69 77 75 and 72 celcius with realtemp. Is that high, or about right for a 2500k, hyper 212+, and a haf 912 with lots of airflow?


----------



## chinesethunda

I have a phantom too and I have it blow it out the back

Sent from my brain using my fingers


----------



## crondable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Just overclocked my 2500k to 4.5 ghz, and I used intelburntest to find what temps I am running. Under extreme, I got my cores were 69 77 75 and 72 celcius with realtemp. Is that high, or about right for a 2500k, hyper 212+, and a haf 912 with lots of airflow?


What is your Vcore at? Sounds about right for IBT, though. My 2500k at 4.5 with 1.28 max Vcore usually hits a max temp of 71C running prime95. Haven't used IBT recently but I remember it pushing temps higher than prime95.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crondable*
> 
> What is your Vcore at? Sounds about right for IBT, though. My 2500k at 4.5 with 1.28 max Vcore usually hits a max temp of 71C running prime95. Haven't used IBT recently but I remember it pushing temps higher than prime95.


Yeah, I read that it is designed for maximum temperature very quickly.

Umm... This is what ET6 was showing. I can't really remember what I set my voltage for, I just kinda copied somebodies overclock settings into my bios and hoped it ran. Kinda new to overclocking.


----------



## crondable

No worries, I'm pretty new to overclocking myself. Just got started a few weeks ago. Your Vcore seems a little high for 4.5. Mine is sitting 16 hours stable at 1.28 Vcore. Try dropping that down a little and I bet your temps will go down a bit as well. They seem pretty good though for that Vcore and running IBT. :thumbup:


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Yeah, I read that it is designed for maximum temperature very quickly.
> Umm... This is what ET6 was showing. I can't really remember what I set my voltage for, I just kinda copied somebodies overclock settings into my bios and hoped it ran. Kinda new to overclocking.


Well if it's stable pull the voltage down 2 notches at a time, till it won't boot. Then put it back up 2 and run Intel Burn Test for 4-12 hours. Even more if you wish. I only do 4 hours of Prime95 myself, as anymore and it's starting to get unrealistic. I've also done a few runs of Prime95 and ended it after 4-5 hours to find that Facebook made my PC BSOD!








All in all i needed a tiddle more voltage!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crondable*
> 
> No worries, I'm pretty new to overclocking myself. Just got started a few weeks ago. Your Vcore seems a little high for 4.5. Mine is sitting 16 hours stable at 1.28 Vcore. Try dropping that down a little and I bet your temps will go down a bit as well. They seem pretty good though for that Vcore and running IBT. :thumbup:


Exactly what i think!







+Rep for good advice


----------



## justanewguy

++ on IBT, best tool in my opinion to test stability since its using linpack, a stress testing that intel uses.

Benefits of using Linpack:
1. More accurate than Prime95 Small FFTs/Blend.
2. Takes less time to tell if your CPU/RAM is unstable than Prime95 (*usually
something like 8 minutes Linpack vs 40 hours under Prime95*).
3. Use the same stress-testing engine that Intel uses to test their products
before they are packed and put on shelves for sale.

Benefits of using IntelBurnTest:
1. Simplifies usage of Linpack.
2. Real-time output of results to the screen.
3. Simplifies the process of selecting a test size to use.
4. Better appearance.
5. Intuitive interface.
6. Real-time error checking.
7. System status acknowledgement.


----------



## Thanos1972

Just play 5 lives on Bubble Saga on facebook and see if it freezes or not.if it is stable then do some IBT tests.
Lol but this game it is very bad for cpus.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Sadness, my overclock passed 10 run-throughs of IBT at extreme, the temps were 75 at the highest, and it looked to be stable. I am getting ready to reboot to get to the bios to drop the voltage a little, and it cycles through the power multiple times without showing the bios. After about 6 or 7 times, I finally get to the bios. And I didn't really even have the voltage any lower than 1.35. Seems I need some guidance.

Yes, problem I have.

Okay, I'm on the lookout for a mentor to help me get my overclock setup right. PM me if you can help with this and are pretty competent on this issue.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Sadness, my overclock passed 10 run-throughs of IBT at extreme, the temps were 75 at the highest, and it looked to be stable. I am getting ready to reboot to get to the bios to drop the voltage a little, and it cycles through the power multiple times without showing the bios. After about 6 or 7 times, I finally get to the bios. And I didn't really even have the voltage any lower than 1.35. Seems I need some guidance.
> Yes, problem I have.
> Okay, I'm on the lookout for a mentor to help me get my overclock setup right. PM me if you can help with this and are pretty competent on this issue.


I'm afraid the only was to temporarily fix this is to reset your bios, then flash it to the latest.. a friend had a similar problem except it wouldn't boot into Windows.. It was a P67 Gigabyte board.
You could also test the voltage and settings with Easy Tune 6 inside windows. Then just go to the bios when you know the exact settings you need!


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> I'm afraid the only was to temporarily fix this is to reset your bios, then flash it to the latest.. a friend had a similar problem except it wouldn't boot into Windows.. It was a P67 Gigabyte board.
> You could also test the voltage and settings with Easy Tune 6 inside windows. Then just go to the bios when you know the exact settings you need!


Maybe. Will probably try that out.


----------



## Uncle Dolans

I wouldn't mind being added. Have this photo of it if you like. A little dusty. (Assuming EVOs count)


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uncle Dolans*
> 
> I wouldn't mind being added. Have this photo of it if you like. A little dusty. (Assuming EVOs count)


They indeed do! What's the fan on it like?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> They indeed do! What's the fan on it like?


They have a weaker static pressure than the ones on the Hyper 212 Plus but push more air.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uncle Dolans*
> 
> I wouldn't mind being added. Have this photo of it if you like. A little dusty. (Assuming EVOs count)


added


----------



## Struzzin

Count me in as well


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Struzzin20*
> 
> Count me in as well


added


----------



## Fullmetalaj0

Ok I dont have a decent camera to take a picture, but I painstakingly got this installed. How do these temps look?



did a blend test monitoring with Realtemp.

edit: Its a stock 2500k


----------



## chinesethunda

pretty dam good, those decent temps, now try to OC it to 4.5ghz also added


----------



## Fullmetalaj0

How do I get my cpu to show up as 4.5 in like cpuz...i ran a 10 minute blend test and it got to 4.5 at around1.39v but it doesnt show up in cpuz after the test cuz it throttles itself down...max temp was 70c


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fullmetalaj0*
> 
> How do I get my cpu to show up as 4.5 in like cpuz...i ran a 10 minute blend test and it got to 4.5 at around1.39v but it doesnt show up in cpuz after the test cuz it throttles itself down...max temp was 70c


Turn off C1E and EIST.


----------



## MKHunt

I figure you guys can appreciate a 212+ in a microATX case.





Keeps the 960T unlocked to 6 cores and OC'ed to 3.8GHz nice and cool (sub-50C)


----------



## swarm87

planning on getting an evo with my build (hopefully ordering Friday) im a little confused on how to use thermal paste; the directions on coolermaster's product page say to put a thin layer on the heat sink then install, mo mom's boyfriend says to put in on both the cpu and heat sink, and all the information ive read says to put it on the cpu. whats the proper way to install it?


----------



## MKHunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swarm87*
> 
> planning on getting an evo with my build (hopefully ordering Friday) im a little confused on how to use thermal paste; the directions on coolermaster's product page say to put a thin layer on the heat sink then install, mo mom's boyfriend says to put in on both the cpu and heat sink, and all the information ive read says to put it on the cpu. whats the proper way to install it?


With direct contact heatsinks (A70, 212+, etc.) I like to put a 6mm dot in the center of the CPU and apply the heatsink, being very careful not to twist or lift while tightening.

If you look at the 212 directions, they illustrate glopping on ALL the thermal paste like spaghetti sauce onto the heat sink. Ignore that.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> I figure you guys can appreciate a 212+ in a microATX case.
> 
> 
> Keeps the 960T unlocked to 6 cores and OC'ed to 3.8GHz nice and cool (sub-50C)


Sub negative 50C haha.


----------



## Methodical

Capture (validate) it while you are running the blend test.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fullmetalaj0*
> 
> How do I get my cpu to show up as 4.5 in like cpuz...i ran a 10 minute blend test and it got to 4.5 at around1.39v but it doesnt show up in cpuz after the test cuz it throttles itself down...max temp was 70c


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKHunt*
> 
> With direct contact heatsinks (A70, 212+, etc.) I like to put a 6mm dot in the center of the CPU and apply the heatsink, being very careful not to twist or lift while tightening.
> If you look at the 212 directions, they illustrate glopping on ALL the thermal paste like spaghetti sauce onto the heat sink. Ignore that.


Got the right idea but not quite!









Put some in the gaps between the heatpipes first, then put a small blob on the CPU/Cooler. It doesn't matter which one because it will have the same result.
I actually used lines to apply it on the cooler, by putting it on the copper parts. Either that or between the copper pipes as a reference/guide.

I know this is the best way to do it as i've tried applying it with various sockets/CPU's and compared the temperatures. I know my Core 2 Quad is 95W and your results may differ, going from a 65W to a 95W i saw little to no temperature change because i applied the thermal paste differently!


----------



## chinesethunda

mk hunt added


----------



## Fullmetalaj0

Here you are, 12 hours of custom blend using a ton of my ram:



off to the 12+ hours sandy bride club I go lol


----------



## AlexNJ

Hey guys I have a 212 plus that I ordered off of newegg a month ago. I currently have a Fx 6100 with a light oc of 3.6 ghz and running at 58 at full load on prime 95 and idleing at 24c I was wondering how much more I can push it before it becomes a problem.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk


----------



## am dew1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Turn off C1E and EIST.


Just curious...is that different than setting the Minimum Process State in Windows 7's Processor Power Management (PPM) to 100% ? If so, how is it different in terms of the User expereience? Thanks.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fullmetalaj0*
> 
> Here you are, 12 hours of custom blend using a ton of my ram:
> off to the 12+ hours sandy bride club I go lol


idk where you are going to find the sandy bride lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNJ*
> 
> Hey guys I have a 212 plus that I ordered off of newegg a month ago. I currently have a Fx 6100 with a light oc of 3.6 ghz and running at 58 at full load on prime 95 and idleing at 24c I was wondering how much more I can push it before it becomes a problem.
> Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk


added, also you can probably push it a little further, although I am not too familiar with AMD chips


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexNJ*
> 
> Hey guys I have a 212 plus that I ordered off of newegg a month ago. I currently have a Fx 6100 with a light oc of 3.6 ghz and running at 58 at full load on prime 95 and idleing at 24c I was wondering how much more I can push it before it becomes a problem.
> Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk


You'll be able to push it beyond 4 from what I see with the FX CPU's.


----------



## Pentium4 531 overclocker

i just had a wack idea... anyone wanna try to flip their system on its side an have the fan intake de-ionized water or mineral oil?


----------



## chinesethunda

like a submerged rig?


----------



## rainbrodash666

i would like to be added to this club my hyper 212 plus is in the mail from amazon now


----------



## thehybridkiwi

I'm running a push-pull set up with the CM Hyper 212+ (sig rig). I have the push fan hooked up to the 4-pin CPU fan header and the pull fan hooked up to one of the 3-pin system fan headers. The fan speeds are automatically controlled by the motherboard.

At idle, I'm noticing that my push fan runs at a consistently low RPM (~250) while my pull fan is consistently near 2000 RPM. Is this normal?


----------



## chinesethunda

it should be a little higher, you can go into your bios and set the fan speed, i think the lowest should be 500 rpms or so, what are you using to measure the rpm?

also added rainbrodash666


----------



## atarione

i have 2x hyper 212+ coolers

one on my ESXi server (I5-750) @stock w/ 2x stock CM fans

and one on my i5-2500K @4.3 w/ 2x Gelid Silent 12 PWM fans idles 30s full load prime 65~C on hottest core.


----------



## rainbrodash666

anyone know where i can get some mosfet heat sinks for my A770DE+ motherboard and how well does arctic silver 5 work with these heat sinks that is what i bought with it (mostly for the arcticlean kit) and if ic diamond 7 will work better(will be purchased at a later date)? or should i just use the stock thermal compound

also a bit nervous as to weather this will actualy fit in my case i have a xion echo (classic series red led)


----------



## Methodical

Here's a shot of my installed CM Hyper 212.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atarione*
> 
> i have 2x hyper 212+ coolers
> one on my ESXi server (I5-750) @stock w/ 2x stock CM fans
> and one on my i5-2500K @4.3 w/ 2x Gelid Silent 12 PWM fans idles 30s full load prime 65~C on hottest core.


added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Here's a shot of my installed CM Hyper 212.


nice cooler, although whats the pull fan?


----------



## thehybridkiwi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> it should be a little higher, you can go into your bios and set the fan speed, i think the lowest should be 500 rpms or so, what are you using to measure the rpm?
> also added rainbrodash666


I'm getting the readings from the BIOS. When I turn smart fan control off, the push fan jumps to and stays at around 1000 RPM (this is the original CM fan that came with the Hypere 212+).


----------



## chinesethunda

try using smartfan or something to read it, bios isn't always that accurate when it comes to fan readings


----------



## Methodical

I purchased it from cooler master. They told me it was the one for the 212, but it runs about 200-250 rpms higher than the one that came with the unit. Go figure. Maybe it's the fan they put on the new unit - 612.

Edit: I just looked at the 612 and it looks like the same fan.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> added
> nice cooler, although whats the pull fan?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I purchased it from cooler master. They told me it was the one for the 212, but it runs about 200-250 rpms higher than the one that came with the unit. Go figure. Maybe it's the fan they put on the new unit - 612.


Or it is the one they put on the Evo?


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Or it is the one they put on the Evo?


Didn't know about the Evo. Yeah I just looked at it looks the same as that one, too. I'd have to check to the specs to confirm then.


----------



## Scuba Steve in VA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Didn't know about the Evo. Yeah I just looked at it looks the same as that one, too. I'd have to check to the specs to confirm then.


EVO uses the XtraFlo 120:

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6754


----------



## klewlis1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> anyone know where i can get some mosfet heat sinks for my A770DE+ motherboard and how well does arctic silver 5 work with these heat sinks that is what i bought with it (mostly for the arcticlean kit) and if ic diamond 7 will work better(will be purchased at a later date)? or should i just use the stock thermal compound
> also a bit nervous as to weather this will actualy fit in my case i have a xion echo (classic series red led)


Here are some heatsinks that should work for your mobo.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708012


----------



## Faint

I just recently bought a 212 Evo to replace a troublesome Xigmatek cooler. I haven't taken any pics yet as I don't have a functional PC yet, but I'll take pics when I do.


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klewlis1*
> 
> Here are some heatsinks that should work for your mobo.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708012


^+1, I was about to post that but you already did. I have those heatsinks. And unless you keep your motherboard horizontal you have to use the sticky thermal pads they come with, you can't use thermal paste unless it's sticky or they would just fall off.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faint*
> 
> I just recently bought a 212 Evo to replace a troublesome Xigmatek cooler. I haven't taken any pics yet as I don't have a functional PC yet, but I'll take pics when I do.


added


----------



## AlexNJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> idk where you are going to find the sandy bride lol
> added, also you can probably push it a little further, although I am not too familiar with AMD chips


Thanks for adding me to the club!


----------



## rainbrodash666

when i get these should i use the sticky stuff they come with or get some thermal epoxy ?


----------



## thehybridkiwi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> try using smartfan or something to read it, bios isn't always that accurate when it comes to fan readings


Still the same. I'm thinking of getting a Y cable so my push/pull fans run at the same speed.


----------



## chinesethunda

get some different TIM, mx2 or mx3 or IC7 thermal pastes, as5 works too lol


----------



## Captain Mayhem

quick mod to the Hyper 212+ i did a few days back, for those who haven't seen it.

  

doing it this way gets the entire fan to pull air through the hdt, instead of having a small area bypassed.


----------



## iamloco724

so i built my first pc a few months ago i have the hyper 212 evo now finally getting around to using it more and testing out temps and its running a little run idle could go anywhere from 35-45c so im thinking i have to redo the evo

what tim are people using for the evo and what method are you using in applying it i originally use the pea size dot and the stock tim that came with it


----------



## thehybridkiwi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamloco724*
> 
> so i built my first pc a few months ago i have the hyper 212 evo now finally getting around to using it more and testing out temps and its running a little run idle could go anywhere from 35-45c so im thinking i have to redo the evo
> what tim are people using for the evo and what method are you using in applying it i originally use the pea size dot and the stock tim that came with it


Arctic Silver's got this awesome breakdown for how to apply TIM on your CPU (link).

I used the TIM that came with my Hyper 212+. I'm getting around 25*C for my stock FX-4100 in a BitFenix Merc Alpha. Temps will vary based on your case's air flow characteristics and your ambient room temperature. What proc are you using?


----------



## iamloco724

using corsair 400r case 2 140mm top exhaust 2 front intake and one back exhaust running at stock speeds on 2600k

and room temp is usually cool as i use ac all year long

what i also find weird is ive read n bios my temps should be higher but there lower in bios i get 27-30c


----------



## klewlis1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> ^+1, I was about to post that but you already did. I have those heatsinks. And unless you keep your motherboard horizontal you have to use the sticky thermal pads they come with, you can't use thermal paste unless it's sticky or they would just fall off.


I used this and it works great to keep the heatsinks on, i didnt like the idea of using thermal pads. They wont come off so make sure you will never need to remove them lol.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100013


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamloco724*
> 
> using corsair 400r case 2 140mm top exhaust 2 front intake and one back exhaust running at stock speeds on 2600k
> and room temp is usually cool as i use ac all year long
> what i also find weird is ive read n bios my temps should be higher but there lower in bios i get 27-30c


Don't trust BIOS readings. Some get higher, some get lower.


----------



## rainbrodash666

so anyone know how well of an overclocker the amd phenom 1 9550 quad core is? i have the a77ode+ mobo and i am up to 2475.0mhz so far and should i drop the multiplier by one and really ramp up the fsb? stock is 200mhz fsb and 11 multi


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> so anyone know how well of an overclocker the amd phenom 1 9550 quad core is? i have the a77ode+ mobo and i am up to 2475.0mhz so far and should i drop the multiplier by one and really ramp up the fsb? stock is 200mhz fsb and 11 multi


i am now up to 2530.0 stable as of 2.5 hours of prime 95 but i think the cpu core diodes are giving me faulty readings they read at 15c (idle)while another cpu temp is 34c witch i think is kind of high my heatsink is now the hyper 212 plus and my ambient temp is about 35-40 degrees f


----------



## Jolly Roger

Hey Hyper 212 Club. I'm seriously considering getting the Hyper 212 evo. I currently have a 92 xiggy. I was wondering... do hypers install sideways like I see in your pictures on this post? (So the fans are pushing towards the rear exhaust fan) or is it upwards like the xiggys and you guys used conversion kits or something?
If they installed backwards stock then you might as well add me to the club now cause I will definitely get one.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> i am now up to 2530.0 stable as of 2.5 hours of prime 95 but i think the cpu core diodes are giving me faulty readings they read at 15c (idle)while another cpu temp is 34c witch i think is kind of high my heatsink is now the hyper 212 plus and my ambient temp is about 35-40 degrees f


Do you live in the north pole?? 40F is 4C!


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jolly Roger*
> 
> Hey Hyper 212 Club. I'm seriously considering getting the Hyper 212 evo. I currently have a 92 xiggy. I was wondering... do hypers install sideways like I see in your pictures on this post? (So the fans are pushing towards the rear exhaust fan) or is it upwards like the xiggys and you guys used conversion kits or something?
> If they installed backwards stock then you might as well add me to the club now cause I will definitely get one.


It can go either way out of the box.


----------



## Akiei

Hi guys, so I recently installed a hyper 212 Evo and I have a quick question. Is it supposed to wiggle if I bump it? I think I may have mounted it wrong, but I am not sure... The instructions said something about which way the metal mount should cross when mounting the cooler on the cpu, and I think I may have done it backwards. Is this the problem? I was able to get all 4 screws in tightly-


----------



## Methodical

You can install it vertical or horizontal, but for me I had to go horizontal because I have 4 memory sticks. If you only have 2, then you should be able to mount it vertical. I would have rather installed it vertically since heat rises and therefore installed vertically it (heat) would flow in its normal path and the fan would help it flow faster.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jolly Roger*
> 
> Hey Hyper 212 Club. I'm seriously considering getting the Hyper 212 evo. I currently have a 92 xiggy. I was wondering... do hypers install sideways like I see in your pictures on this post? (So the fans are pushing towards the rear exhaust fan) or is it upwards like the xiggys and you guys used conversion kits or something?
> If they installed backwards stock then you might as well add me to the club now cause I will definitely get one.


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Do you live in the north pole?? 40F is 4C!


no, it iis just winter where i live and my room is un heated every morning when i wake up there is a layer of ice on the inside of my window:thumb:


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> no, it iis just winter where i live and my room is un heated every morning when i wake up there is a layer of ice on the inside of my window:thumb:


Start folding 24/7







You don't even need a good cooler with those ambient temps, the stock one would be fine wouldn't it?


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> Start folding 24/7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't even need a good cooler with those ambient temps, the stock one would be fine wouldn't it?


what is folding? like protein folding? and how to get started


----------



## rainbrodash666

and also i dont have the stock cooler for my athalon x2 4600 or my phenom 9550 i was using the cooler from a phenom II dual core on my athlon and got my hyper for when i upgrade to a phenom witch is at 2640mhz stable now


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> what is folding? like protein folding? and how to get started


http://www.overclock.net/f/366/folding-home-guides-and-tutorials


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/f/366/folding-home-guides-and-tutorials


what are the "bonuses" this link talks about


----------



## Amhro

hey guys








i am thinking about getting this cooler, but i need your help

this is my current situation


would that cooler fit in here? since ram is pretty close (using only 1 stick atm, would it still fit if i get another stick? into second white dimm slot) as for my case...its..... eh, some old crap without any brand i guess, i can make another picture if needed


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> hey guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i am thinking about getting this cooler, but i need your help
> this is my current situation
> 
> would that cooler fit in here? since ram is pretty close (using only 1 stick atm, would it still fit if i get another stick? into second white dimm slot) as for my case...its..... eh, some old crap without any brand i guess, i can make another picture if needed


looks like you might have to mount the fan as a pull twards the back of your case in your ram doesn't fit under it


----------



## TheYonderGod

Even if it doesn't fit you can slide the fan up over your ram or put it on the other side like rainbrodash said. I think it will fit though, mine has about the same space and my fan is just over my first ram slot.


----------



## rainbrodash666

has anyone tried setting up their hyper 212 with a push fan-duct-cooler setup and is their a performance gain


----------



## useport80

hey all,
i'm looking to get the coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus tonight, with an additional blademaster fan. the rear of my coolermaster hafx case has an exhaust already. would i position this additional blademaster fan to blow air towards the exhaust(basically keep the same direction with the stock hyper212 fan? or would i point it in the opposite direction? i couldn't tell in the pictures above with the dual fan config


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> has anyone tried setting up their hyper 212 with a push fan-duct-cooler setup and is their a performance gain


soon i am going to put a duct between my push fan and my 212 and i will update with any temp changes


----------



## chinesethunda

dont get another fan and just put the fan blow towards your exhaust


----------



## General121

Got my Hyper212+ in my rig







Currently running prime95.....Highest temp so far has been 50c. check sig rig


----------



## xnuw

just got mine last thursday


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Got my Hyper212+ in my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Currently running prime95.....Highest temp so far has been 50c. check sig rig


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnuw*
> 
> just got mine last thursday


both added


----------



## rainbrodash666

i just realized that the hyper 212 makes motherboards look puny


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> i just realized that the hyper 212 makes motherboards look puny


Try NH-D14.


----------



## xnuw

@ chinesethunda ~ thanks pafs

@rainbrodash666 ~







i think your pertaining to my rig, yes it looks puny, the board did not even reach the 3rd column for motherboard stand-off, while assembling this one I realize its really short, thats why the half of the board is hovering without standoffs especially on location of the 24 pin powersupply I was worried I might split the board in two's,


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnuw*
> 
> @ chinesethunda ~ thanks pafs
> @rainbrodash666 ~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think your pertaining to my rig, yes it looks puny, the board did not even reach the 3rd column for motherboard stand-off, while assembling this one I realize its really short, thats why the half of the board is hovering without standoffs especially on location of the 24 pin powersupply I was worried I might split the board in two's,


yeah my board is that way too but some screw holes on the board lined up with a difrent format so it has some support 
motherboard is asrock a770de+


----------



## xnuw

@rainbrodash666 ~ yes another asrock user! good thing your case has a top exhaust mine have none, so I have to content with a single rear exhaust so that this push/pull config hyper 212+ can entirely blow the heat directly out, its a good thing I put a high performance CM sickleflow to suck out all the heat, the stock rear fan is such a lazy I put it on the sidepanel to suck in cool air for the gpu at low rpm & at such a low hum noise, that is bearable to my ear....


----------



## rainbrodash666

yeah i have a sickleflow 69 cfm fan in the roof and my blade master on my 212 is runing ~1500 rpm so the top fan is pulling more air than the cpu fan is pushing but i need to get more air flow over my south bridge because when i touch it it is uncomfortably hot so i just set a 92mm fan there to blow at it for now but any ideas?
?


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> i am now up to 2530.0 stable as of 2.5 hours of prime 95 but i think the cpu core diodes are giving me faulty readings they read at 15c (idle)while another cpu temp is 34c witch i think is kind of high my heatsink is now the hyper 212 plus and my ambient temp is about 35-40 degrees f


i fuigred out the temp discrepancies i was having the high cpu temp is measured with a probe on the motherboard and the low temps are on cpu die probes or probe i think because all four cores are always the same temp


----------



## xnuw

@rainbrodash666 ~
Quote:


> yeah i have a sickleflow 69 cfm fan in the roof and my blade master on my 212 is runing ~1500 rpm so the top fan is pulling more air than the cpu fan is pushing but i need to get more air flow over my south bridge because when i touch it it is uncomfortably hot so i just set a 92mm fan there to blow at it for now but any ideas?


why not put a 120 fan also at the sidepanel so the entire southbridge can benefit too, note: I put my sickleflow to this area first time at the sidepanel along gpu, damn twister noise becoz I connect it directly at the psu molex, no way to control the speed, as i used up all the mobo's fan header on this portion, solution; what i did I use the stock chasis fan on it







that did the job, then use the sickleflow as the chasis rear exhaust, helping the hyper 212+ in cooling the innard of the entire rig not just the cpu, I can really feel the hot air coming out of the pc.

I'm just waiting for my wife to send me the mesh cover for the dvd drive, I took out of her pc drive bays back home when I installed a dvd writer, here gigabyte luxo M1000 chasis has full front mesh cover even the drive bays, so I just hope it would fit my case...


----------



## rainbrodash666

my pc has no spot for a side pannel fan







unless i cut one myself


----------



## xnuw

^ oh so thats why, i think its best to have a modder do it for you, I'm sure there are pc enthusiast nearby your place who can do it for a friendly price with a design of your own choice^


----------



## rainbrodash666

^i kind of want to put a window in the side like the engine window for the corvette zr1 in the "scoop" on my side pannel


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> ^i kind of want to put a window in the side like the engine window for the corvette zr1 in the "scoop" on my side pannel


That makes me sad. You want to copy Chevrolet in how they copied Ferrari and other car makers. Boutique car makes put these windows so you can see the hand crafted engines, whereas Chevrolet puts the window so you can see some plastic engine cover.

If you do put a window like that, at least don't hide your hardware behind some plastic cover.


----------



## PhilC2001

You know, case prices are so cheap these days you can get a decent one that will accommodate the Hyper 212 for under $50, that's what I paid on sale for my Rosewill Challenger U3. Better still, the Challenger comes with 3 fans, and the topside fan lines up perfectly with the Hyper 212, just 3 inches apart so it blows the heat straight out.

You can see in the pic below, the Hyper 212, with the fan attached to it pushing upward, and you can't really see the fan above at the top of the case, but it's there. You can also see the other 120mm fan at the back of the case on the left of the Hyper 212. The third fan is not in the picture, it is a 140mm fan at the front of the case pulling air over the drive cage.


----------



## General121

Only thing I dont like abou the cooler is that its so tall that on my Antec 900, the side panel cutout for an extra case fan is too close and wont fit another fan in


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Only thing I dont like abou the cooler is that its so tall that on my Antec 900, the side panel cutout for an extra case fan is too close and wont fit another fan in


Same issue with my NZXT Beta EVO classic.


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> That makes me sad. You want to copy Chevrolet in how they copied Ferrari and other car makers. Boutique car makes put these windows so you can see the hand crafted engines, whereas Chevrolet puts the window so you can see some plastic engine cover.
> If you do put a window like that, at least don't hide your hardware behind some plastic cover.


that is not what this is about this is about computers that was just the shape i wanted and SSC>corvette>ferrari


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> that is not what this is about this is about computers that was just the shape i wanted and SSC>corvette>ferrari


Yeah, I get it is the shape you wanted. Kinda like this sweetness, right?


And no, SSC and Corvette are not better than Ferrari. As far as I know, Ferrari is the one with a plethora of wins at Le Mans, an endurance race to test vehicles to their limits over time. In fact, a Corvette has never won at Le Mans.

Oh, and Viper is better than Corvette, btw. It has a better time around the Nurburgring than the corvette.








http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_N%C3%BCrburgring_Nordschleife_lap_times#Production.2C_street-legal_vehicles


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Yeah, I get it is the shape you wanted. Kinda like this sweetness, right?
> 
> And no, SSC and Corvette are not better than Ferrari. As far as I know, Ferrari is the one with a plethora of wins at Le Mans, an endurance race to test vehicles to their limits over time. In fact, a Corvette has never won at Le Mans.
> Oh, and Viper is better than Corvette, btw. It has a better time around the Nurburgring than the corvette.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_N%C3%BCrburgring_Nordschleife_lap_times#Production.2C_street-legal_vehicles


no not like that more like this 
and why should i base my opinion of street cars on how they perform in a race idgaf about and also SSC does not race their cars because they are far to fast their only competition is Bugatti, and did you know that Ferrari is borrowing ferro fluid technology from Cadillac for their suspension cadillac (another gm brand) that i also believe beats Ferrari


----------



## chinesethunda

meh, overly flashy case with kinda pointless side vents, imo I prefer side vents that is just a big hole, with just a mesh cover or something. like my nzxt phantom, those plastic slits stop so much airflow.


----------



## xnuw

I envy those chasis with a total front mesh including drive bays, my hyper 212+ seems having a hard time sucking in cold air as the front intake fan is already being block by the hdd & ssd & the cramp-up cables from the psu

the only other way I can suck in cold air is thru the sidepanel intake fan

As the chasis dont have any extra bottom fan intake, just screw holes for 2.5 hdd I think


----------



## xnuw

my stock cpu temp, I think the thermal paste is starting to cure already


----------



## rainbrodash666

it was just an example of the shape of window/mesh i want in my case i don't like the look of the case either or i would of bought it but that isnt even he right shape like the shape of the shaker hoods on Plymouth's


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General121*
> 
> Only thing I dont like abou the cooler is that its so tall that on my Antec 900, the side panel cutout for an extra case fan is too close and wont fit another fan in


Happens on a range of cases, basically all the cases that are just wide enough for it! My HAF is so wide i could probably almost fit 2x sidefans







(on top of another)

Actually, is there any benefit of this?


----------



## Matt-Matt

EDIT: Double post


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Happens on a range of cases, basically all the cases that are just wide enough for it! My HAF is so wide i could probably almost fit 2x sidefans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (on top of another)
> Actually, is there any benefit of this?


The side slot is right above my GPU. Added area to get hot air out if i OC, or when i upgrade my GPU.


----------



## Amhro

finally installed this cooler, took some time, but i managed to make it!








its pretty cool, i also installed one fan @ back of the case, for better airflow

now temp @ full load is lower than with stock fan @ idle, kinda funny


----------



## chinesethunda

nice lol, added


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Just went to CM's website, and they have no less than 18 CPU coolers available atm.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Just went to CM's website, and they have no less than 18 CPU coolers available atm.


I know, it's crazy! I think their idea is so you'll get one you like the look/price/performance of. Still the Hyper 212+ does most people!


----------



## xnuw

a quick photo of my hyper 212


----------



## chinesethunda

try it without the pull fan, you might get good temps, your sickleflow runs at different speeds with the blademaster, also its not a pwm fan


----------



## klewlis1

What are the best fans i can put on my 212 evo, i am currently using 2 Scythe ultra kaze 3000 atm both pushing 133cfm. I wanna go a little quieter if possible but if not that ok too, i'm used to the noise, cause i use 5 more of them in my case







Can i actually get good cooling qualities from fans with alot less air flow? I'm overclocked to 4.1 from stock 3.0 atm and i run at 35c idle and 52c maxed running prime95. Id like to lose the noise but keep my cooling and im willing to replace all my fans if need be, i use a Thermaltake Commander 1 case with 5 ultra kaze including my cooler fans


----------



## ian30

Hi all
I got my 212 cooler today.








I put it on with 2 coolermaster sickleflow 120mm fan's, 2000 rpm, 69 CFM. i put them on push pull at full speed pluged into molex connectors and it's quiet.
I put the cpu fan off the 212 cooler on the back of the case as outlet fan.
My i5 2500k 3.3ghz is @ 4.7ghz
With HWMonitor i idal at 30c, in prime95 i get 64c.
With asus suite 2 i idal at 20c and in prime95 54c.
All in all its a good cooler for the price im very happy with it and maybe ill get faster fans with more CFM and try for the 5ghz.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ian30*
> 
> Hi all
> I got my 212 cooler today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put it on with 2 coolermaster sickleflow 120mm fan's, 2000 rpm, 69 CMF. i put them on push pull at full speed and it's quiet.
> I put the cpu fan off the 212 cooler on the back of the case as outlet fan.
> My i5 2500k 3.3ghz is @ 4.7ghz
> With HWMonitor i idal at 30c, in prime95 i get 64c.
> With asus suite 2 i idal at 20c and in prime95 54c.
> All in all its a good cooler for the price im very happy with it and maybe ill get faster fans with more CMF and try for the 5ghz.


That's amazing! It's also CFM if you weren't sure!








You may have better results by taking the back fan off also! As it's slower then your two fans on the Hyper 212+. Just food for some thought!


----------



## ian30

Oops typo thanks fixed now








Im waiting on another sickleflow for the back ive got 1 in the front ill post back the info after install.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klewlis1*
> 
> What are the best fans i can put on my 212 evo, i am currently using 2 Scythe ultra kaze 3000 atm both pushing 133cfm. I wanna go a little quieter if possible but if not that ok too, i'm used to the noise, cause i use 5 more of them in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can i actually get good cooling qualities from fans with alot less air flow? I'm overclocked to 4.1 from stock 3.0 atm and i run at 35c idle and 52c maxed running prime95. Id like to lose the noise but keep my cooling and im willing to replace all my fans if need be, i use a Thermaltake Commander 1 case with 5 ultra kaze including my cooler fans


The stock fan is a very good fan for this particular heat sink.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ian30*
> 
> Hi all
> I got my 212 cooler today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put it on with 2 coolermaster sickleflow 120mm fan's, 2000 rpm, 69 CFM. i put them on push pull at full speed pluged into molex connectors and it's quiet.
> I put the cpu fan off the 212 cooler on the back of the case as outlet fan.
> My i5 2500k 3.3ghz is @ 4.7ghz
> With HWMonitor i idal at 30c, in prime95 i get 64c.
> With asus suite 2 i idal at 20c and in prime95 54c.
> All in all its a good cooler for the price im very happy with it and maybe ill get faster fans with more CFM and try for the 5ghz.


So you spent money for two fans that will only yield 1C better temperatures than just one of the stock fan??


----------



## ian30

Not realy i already had the fans in my case and there not as loud as the 1 fan i got with this by its self.
my overclock went to 4.2 with the 1 fan at the same temps as it is now at 4.7 if 1c made the deffrence then thats fine for me.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ian30*
> 
> Not realy i already had the fans in my case and there not as loud as the 1 fan i got with this by its self.
> my overclock went to 4.2 with the 1 fan at the same temps as it is now at 4.7 if 1c made the deffrence then thats fine for me.


Guess what, put the stock fan on PWM mode and the quietness will blow you away. I did some tests with a quad core 45nm chip running at 4.2 back then and there was only 1C improvement going from the stock fan to two Sickeflows running at full speed, and the stock fan was running on PWM mode. By the way a 4.2 GHz 45 nm chip runs hotter than a 2500K at 4.6.


----------



## ian30

thanks wongwarren
Im going to try the 1 fan again with this overclock see were it puts my temps ill post back info.


----------



## TrueForm

I'm in!!!







Just added this baby on my CPU last night and whoa... so much better than my stock cooler.. 25C less cooler ^_^


----------



## xnuw

^ thats what this hyper brings its the awe and ahh







at a friendlier cost


----------



## Krusher33

I've been working on my overclock on the 1055T with this cooler. Prime tests hasn't gone over 45c yet.

I finally have a cpu that is putting the cooler to the test.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I've been working on my overclock on the 1055T with this cooler. Prime tests hasn't gone over 45c yet.
> I finally have a cpu that is putting the cooler to the test.


You think?? Try the previous gen 17-9xx series


----------



## mablo

So I caved in and bought a 212 EVO. Yay!








I installed nice and fairly easy, with the help of some Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste.

But!









I don't know if i applied it correctly. Or if it is enough. I mean, by reading all the threads around and posts in this thread my temps should be lower than what they are with the cooler.
From some experimenting last night, and after getting my processor to 4.2 Ghz (don't know yet how i did it exactly







), after an hour of Prime 95, my temps were around 60-63 over the cores.







How does that sound.

Also during just normal windows usage the temps jump around a lot between 30-40 range. Low 30s when I kill most processes and high 30s when browsing and listening to music and such.

I'm asking about the thermal paste also because 90% of the time Core 0 has the highest temp while Core 3 sits @ 3-4 degrees lower.

Advice? Ideas?


----------



## Krusher33

I'm not familiar with Intel but mine isn't that far apart from each other. If I had to guess... the TIM didn't spread evenly across the whole thing.


----------



## mablo

Yes I'm thinking the same thing.

I can see some differences i guess when say the first core (0 core) is at 100 percent usage and the last (core 3) is at 1% sure. But the difference i observed during running Prime so all cores were at 100% usage.

By the way, how are the cores distributed inside the processor, in line (horizontal or vertical) or square shaped (next to each other 2 by 2).


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mablo*
> 
> So I caved in and bought a 212 EVO. Yay!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I installed nice and fairly easy, with the help of some Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste.
> But!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if i applied it correctly. Or if it is enough. I mean, by reading all the threads around and posts in this thread my temps should be lower than what they are with the cooler.
> From some experimenting last night, and after getting my processor to 4.2 Ghz (don't know yet how i did it exactly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), after an hour of Prime 95, my temps were around 60-63 over the cores.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does that sound.
> Also during just normal windows usage the temps jump around a lot between 30-40 range. Low 30s when I kill most processes and high 30s when browsing and listening to music and such.
> I'm asking about the thermal paste also because 90% of the time Core 0 has the highest temp while Core 3 sits @ 3-4 degrees lower.
> Advice? Ideas?


Your temps are perfectly fine and the variance between the cores are perfectly fine for an Intel CPU.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Your temps are perfectly fine and the variance between the cores are perfectly fine for an Intel CPU.


For all CPU's actually.. Unless it's a single core! xD


----------



## Terito

So if my temps are hotter than they should be, is there really anyway something that could be wrong that ISN'T that I failed w/ the thermal paste? lol

My stock 2600k runs at 32-34 idle, 40-44 normal load, and 58-60 at 100% load on prime95.

While not really dangerous, especially since it sits at 40-44 almost always, I think its horribly sup-bar for my CM hyper 212 plus. I redid the thermal paste once during initial installation, but it is my first time building my own rig. So any other causes or I just need to redo the thermal paste?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terito*
> 
> So if my temps are hotter than they should be, is there really anyway something that could be wrong that ISN'T that I failed w/ the thermal paste? lol
> My stock 2600k runs at 32-34 idle, 40-44 normal load, and 58-60 at 100% load on prime95.
> While not really dangerous, especially since it sits at 40-44 almost always, I think its horribly sup-bar for my CM hyper 212 plus. I redid the thermal paste once during initial installation, but it is my first time building my own rig. So any other causes or I just need to redo the thermal paste?


Those temps are perfectly fine.


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Terito*
> 
> So if my temps are hotter than they should be, is there really anyway something that could be wrong that ISN'T that I failed w/ the thermal paste? lol
> My stock 2600k runs at 32-34 idle, 40-44 normal load, and 58-60 at 100% load on prime95.
> While not really dangerous, especially since it sits at 40-44 almost always, I think its horribly sup-bar for my CM hyper 212 plus. I redid the thermal paste once during initial installation, but it is my first time building my own rig. So any other causes or I just need to redo the thermal paste?


how did you install the thermal paste? with the line on the heat pipe method, or with the dot in the middle method, or the spread method? because of the groves where the heat pipes meet the aluminum the dot method is the least effective of the ones i have mentioned and if you used it your temps should improve if you use the lines on the heat pipes method.


----------



## Methodical

Terito, just pop it off and check to see what the thermal paste look like and if it's not covering the cpu then be sure not to do it like before.

Not knowing the proper method for the CM 212, I initially used the dot method and core temps varied wildly; up to 8-10* if I recall correctly. When I removed the cooler I noticed the TP did not cover the cpu (see photos below).

After discovery the proper method to apply TP for these units, I spread the TP in between the grooves and then used 3 thin lines space as evenly as possible (most do 2, but I am not most). I am OC'd at 4.6ghz and 1.385v and idle temps are at about 35* but fluctuates as the cpu usage fluctuates, but the temps core to core are very consistent and tighter than before. To see the cpu usage while using Realtemps, you need to have the latest version 3.70 as it shows the load real time. Prime95 loads and I am at 70-71* and loose not 1 second of sleep because that is the worst case scenario (prime95 that is). I have not seen the temps go over 40-45* in normal day to day work or 65* during gaming or using other benchmarks (Heaven, 3DMark11, BM AC, Crysis 2, Cinema etc).

Remember: All systems are different and you need to know more data about an individual's system to determine why they get the temps they get. My temps may be a bit higher than others with the same OC because of my voltage, where someone may have the same overclock but a lower voltage and therefore lower temps. In other words, you need to get behind the numbers for those that claim "OC'd at 4.6ghz and my temps are 35* load" (just a random example).

Just One Man's Opinion.

Al


----------



## Terito

Thanks for the replies guys. So when I got home from work I decided to give the paste 1 more go. For those asking I had kinda done the spread method but made sure to do it on the sink and the CPU separately. So I had "decent" coverage buf probably still subpar.

So I get home, get all the paste off both parts, going to go with the line method (made the most sense given the architecture of the cm hyper 212 plus) and I get about 90% of the amount of paste I want on there and it stops, I've run out of the paste CM provides with the sink. *** really? Haha.

Conclusion: it was enough paste that it wouldn't harm the CPU so I still put it back on. Getting about 6 degrees on average cooler temps at all phases (idle, normal load, and prime95). So that was definitely the issue. A friend jus bought some MX 4 he's wiling to give me for free so I will probably do it again tomorrow hopefully the final time. It was nice to see the temps improve but my concern now is across the cores the temps are as much as 8 degrees different. I previously never saw more than a 3 degree spread. So I feel like that's probably caused by the uneven spread because I ran out. So 1 more go tomorrow morning after work and I think I'll be g2g. Maybe even lose another bit of heat when I get it installed the way I want









But huge thanks to everyone here been helpful to have some ideas because as a first time pc builder it's nice to have some people to ask.


----------



## rainbrodash666

no problem


----------



## wireeater

I'm still waiting on my replacement parts that I put on order over 2 weeks ago now. Parts are scheduled to be delivered by UPS, we'll see. Screw broke off in the push-off screw. But I do own one... just haven't really got to use it...lol. I've been using the crappy Intel fan for the past 2 weeks which sucks because I hit temps of 80C on load.


----------



## chinesethunda

bump


----------



## xnuw




----------



## Matt-Matt

Hyper 212's aren't as good for value anymore.. See a Hyper 212 Evo here is $40 without shipping.. A Thermalright Macho (alot better) is $60 without shipping... It's an easy choice.

Then there are the 120mm coolers that are something ridiculous like $8 each.. Comes with 2x 120mm fans and all!
Really, a Hyper 212 Evo is a stupid choice, unless it's all your case can fit.

I'm considering selling this for $20 with the two fans to someone.. Maybe $25 and getting a Macho for myself in a few weeks.


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Hyper 212's aren't as good for value anymore.. See a Hyper 212 Evo here is $40 without shipping.. A Thermalright Macho (alot better) is $60 without shipping... It's an easy choice.
> Then there are the 120mm coolers that are something ridiculous like $8 each.. Comes with 2x 120mm fans and all!
> Really, a Hyper 212 Evo is a stupid choice, unless it's all your case can fit.
> I'm considering selling this for $20 with the two fans to someone.. Maybe $25 and getting a Macho for myself in a few weeks.


The 212+ is still $25 shipped on Amazon, sometimes they go down to $20, and the Evo is $35 shipped but they're pretty much the same thing so it isn't worth the extra $10.


----------



## Disturbed117

I purchased my 212+ for $27 on newegg.


----------



## Captain318

I think I gave $30 for mine this time last year. Was worth every cent. Only complaint is recently my Push fan started rattling.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain318*
> 
> I think I gave $30 for mine this time last year. Was worth every cent. Only complaint is recently my Push fan started rattling.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *disturbed117*
> 
> I purchased my 212+ for $27 on newegg.


Yeah, i paid $33 for mine. Which was decent, but there are better deals out there if you live in Aus and can't get the 212+..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> The 212+ is still $25 shipped on Amazon, sometimes they go down to $20, and the Evo is $35 shipped but they're pretty much the same thing so it isn't worth the extra $10.


Yeah, well you can't get the 212+ here, and i know the EVO isn't worth the extra $$$.


----------



## chinesethunda

i paid 20 for mine, also if you are going to use 2 fans, make sure they are the same, not 2 different fans


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> i paid 20 for mine, also if you are going to use 2 fans, make sure they are the same, not 2 different fans


Yes, no matter what cooler you are using that goes for!








At $20 it is a good deal


----------



## Wiffinberg

Just joined the club, loving my 212+


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain318*
> 
> I think I gave $30 for mine this time last year. Was worth every cent. Only complaint is recently my Push fan started rattling.


Check to make sure screws hasn't got loosened. Is there still rubber padding on the bracket?


----------



## Thanos1972

Moved from Hyper 212+ push pull to the Noctua NH-D14.can tell that it was worth it.max ovreclock is the same with my chip and stability.so do not sell it yet.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thanos1972*
> 
> Moved from Hyper 212+ push pull to the Noctua NH-D14.can tell that it was worth it.max ovreclock is the same with my chip and stability.so do not sell it yet.


You're saying the D14 was worth it but not to sell the 212+ yet?


----------



## Thanos1972

No i am saying that the hyper212+ i had was very good at keeping my temps low in order to overclock.but i wanted to move on to try for a better heatsink cause i have an unlocked cpu and cant see the core temp,only cpu temp,because of this.so i assumed that the Noctua Nh D14 was the best option i had.and it was but it didnt do miracles.same overclock headroom for me and small change to temps with same stability.So assuming that everything is tightened good in my case (which it is) the noctua didnt justify the $$$$$ i paid for it but hyper did.


----------



## TheLombax

I have a Hyper 212 evo cooler, and I have to say that going from a 2500k stock cooler to the coolermaster, the difference is night and day. I had trouble mounting the Intel stock cooler when I was assembling my rig and found I was getting about 40-50C idle average. I purchased the Hyper 212 and am getting a 29-30C idle. I have overclocked my system today to 4.5GHz and I have never seen the temp go over 77C when it was being stress tested.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLombax*
> 
> I have a Hyper 212 evo cooler, and I have to say that going from a 2500k stock cooler to the coolermaster, the difference is night and day. I had trouble mounting the Intel stock cooler when I was assembling my rig and found I was getting about 40-50C idle average. I purchased the Hyper 212 and am getting a 29-30C idle. I have overclocked my system today to 4.5GHz and I have never seen the temp go over 77C when it was being stress tested.


Going to an after-market cooler from any stock cooler will make a huge difference. What is your voltage at 4.5?? 77C is pretty high seeing that I was getting 73C at 4.6. Also what is your ambient?


----------



## Sheyster

I bought a Hyper 212 EVO for my new Econo build and I'm very happy with the results so far. Prime95 Blend load temps are in the mid 60's at 4.6 GHz with the single stock fan on high. Not bad at all considering the motherboard and CPU cost me $239+tax when Microcenter had their bundle promos.







Great cooler for $34.99 IMHO and easy to find too (Fry's, MC, etc).


----------



## ManiaKsLV

i have cool master hyper 212 EVO 960T 4.3 GHz 100% load 41 temp!







very good cooler!


----------



## TheLombax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Going to an after-market cooler from any stock cooler will make a huge difference. What is your voltage at 4.5?? 77C is pretty high seeing that I was getting 73C at 4.6. Also what is your ambient?


Well my voltage is 1.332v, is that high? My ambient temperature at the moment is probably something like 35-40C as it's autumn in Australia however we have been getting a lot of sunshine as of recent as well as I have no air conditioning and the room gets all the sunshine. (It gets stuffy in here over summer).


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLombax*
> 
> Well my voltage is 1.332v, is that high? My ambient temperature at the moment is probably something like 35-40C as it's autumn in Australia however we have been getting a lot of sunshine as of recent as well as I have no air conditioning and the room gets all the sunshine. (It gets stuffy in here over summer).


Nah it's just fine for your ambients.


----------



## TheLombax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Nah it's just fine for your ambients.


Ah, that is good. I'll see how it goes during winter.


----------



## Turtley

Count me in I guess. I don't really know what for. Lol!

I'm new here.


----------



## ManiaKsLV

I have Hyper 212 EVO and stock fan is good or i should buy better or just another for better preformance!?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManiaKsLV*
> 
> I have Hyper 212 EVO and stock fan is good or i should buy better or just another for better preformance!?


One stock fan is good enough.


----------



## chinesethunda

added everyone, lemme know if you wanna be added


----------



## GeneO

Sure, add me.

Cheers


----------



## Quantum Reality

Hey folks!

So my Scythe Shuriken finally quit (the fan was spinning at ~500 RPM and I was like WAT) and this provided the needed excuse to get off my butt and install that Hyper 212+!









Currently hammering my CPU with a Prime95 - load temps are around 44 C at the cores, with idle temps sitting between 23 and 27 C at the cores. I don't know what the TJMax is for a Core i5 760 so they may be off by 10 degrees if that is the case.

Pics for















The fan RPMs hover just below 2000, which I assume is typical for this HSF model.









I'm happy!


----------



## Doc567

New here. Count me in.


----------



## ManiaKsLV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc567*
> 
> New here. Count me in.


that is HAF 912?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManiaKsLV*
> 
> that is HAF 912?


Sure is. It is listed in his sig, and I am familiar with the case myself (love it to pieces!).


----------



## rainbrodash666

is it normal that when i installed my 5770 xfire(best $100 i have ever spent) setup that my cpu temps went up?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> is it normal that when i installed my 5770 xfire(best $100 i have ever spent) setup that my cpu temps went up?


Well, if you were using integrated GFX before hand, then yes. Integrated gfx relies on the CPU for some processing power, so it is natural to see a drop in CPU usage and heat.


----------



## Doc567

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManiaKsLV*
> 
> that is HAF 912?


Yes sir it is. Just order the side widow panel and some tool free 5.25" sliding drive fasteners. So small upgrade coming soon.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Doc567*
> 
> Yes sir it is. Just order the side widow panel and some tool free 5.25" sliding drive fasteners. So small upgrade coming soon.


Your build reminds me a lot of my own.

Personally, at this point, after adding all the LED fans and a door with a window, I kinda wish I had gone with a case with all of this standard to start with, like the HAF 922, CM Storm Scout, or CM Storm Enforcer. I mean, it probably would have been of similiar or better price.

But, hindsight is 20/20.


----------



## Quantum Reality

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Well, if you were using integrated GFX before hand, then yes. Integrated gfx relies on the CPU for some processing power, so it is natural to see a drop in CPU usage and heat.


Yes, but dude said his temps went UP not DOWN.

I'm thinking it's because the heat rises from the GPUs, suggesting that the person's case doesn't have a side fan to keep the air moving

It may also be worth re-heatsinking the CPU, using a slightly smaller amount of the Cooler Master supplied compound.

As an example, in my case I find it tends to flow more freely than the MX-2 I can't seem to find for the life of me, and I think I used too much, since my temps tend to rise more than I'd like when OCing.


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*
> 
> Yes, but dude said his temps went UP not DOWN.
> I'm thinking it's because the heat rises from the GPUs, suggesting that the person's case doesn't have a side fan to keep the air moving
> It may also be worth re-heatsinking the CPU, using a slightly smaller amount of the Cooler Master supplied compound.
> As an example, in my case I find it tends to flow more freely than the MX-2 I can't seem to find for the life of me, and I think I used too much, since my temps tend to rise more than I'd like when OCing.


Well if he was GPU bottlenecked, his CPU usage should go up if he upgrades his GPU. Higher CPU usage = higher temps.


----------



## rainbrodash666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*
> 
> Yes, but dude said his temps went UP not DOWN.
> I'm thinking it's because the heat rises from the GPUs, suggesting that the person's case doesn't have a side fan to keep the air moving
> It may also be worth re-heatsinking the CPU, using a slightly smaller amount of the Cooler Master supplied compound.
> As an example, in my case I find it tends to flow more freely than the MX-2 I can't seem to find for the life of me, and I think I used too much, since my temps tend to rise more than I'd like when OCing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> Well if he was GPU bottlenecked, his CPU usage should go up if he upgrades his GPU. Higher CPU usage = higher temps.


thank you i was just wondering and i am using a very thin layer of arctic silver 5 also arctic silver 5 on gpu cores and now i have a cpu bottleneck again and need to get a faster cpu


----------



## Doc567

BF3, i5 2500k overclock to 4.5ghz. CM hyper 212 evo

Tell me what you think.



Idle temps.


----------



## chinesethunda

added everyone


----------



## Prpntblr95

Gonna be using my Hyper 212+ on my 2700k till my H100 gets in, I'll let you guys know how far I can push it with the stock fan


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prpntblr95*
> 
> Gonna be using my Hyper 212+ on my 2700k till my H100 gets in, I'll let you guys know how far I can push it with the stock fan


Anything less than 5.0 and I will lose hope in you.









Realistically, 4.8 would be a good target. 4.5 is easy, but 4.8, cool, and stable might be a bit of a challenge.


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Anything less than 5.0 and I will lose hope in you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Realistically, 4.8 would be a good target. 4.5 is easy, but 4.8, cool, and stable might be a bit of a challenge.


I planned on at least 4.8, I heard OC'ing on the Asrock extreme 3 gen 3 was really easy and I've seen a lot of people with the H100 pushing 4800+mhz no problem. But I am gonna go for 5001mhz just to apply in the 5ghz club on here then drop it back down a little for browsing


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prpntblr95*
> 
> I planned on at least 4.8, I heard OC'ing on the Asrock extreme 3 gen 3 was really easy and I've seen a lot of people with the H100 pushing 4800+mhz no problem. But I am gonna go for 5001mhz just to apply in the 5ghz club on here then drop it back down a little for browsing


An option is to have your turbo boost rated at 5.0 when using only 1 or 2 cores, and have it do 4.8 when using all 4 cores. Most people just disable it, but it is an option.


----------



## Prpntblr95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> An option is to have your turbo boost rated at 5.0 when using only 1 or 2 cores, and have it do 4.8 when using all 4 cores. Most people just disable it, but it is an option.


I'll look into that possibly, motherboard gets in Monday


----------



## Teiji

Hello guys,

Since the TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+/EVO sucks now, what TIM do you guys recommended? I heard Arctic Silver creates good TIM. Which of these would be best for the Hyper 212+: AS5, MX-2, or MX-4? Thanks.


----------



## ManiaKsLV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Hello guys,
> Since the TIM that comes with the Hyper 212+/EVO sucks now, what TIM do you guys recommended? I heard Arctic Silver creates good TIM. Which of these would be best for the Hyper 212+: AS5, AS MX-2, or AS MX-4? Thanks.


MX-4


----------



## YzGHOSTjC

Does anyone here know how much better is push+pull comparing to just pull?


----------



## stubass

i just installed an evo the other day and had to use pull due to my RAM, so im interested as well if will notice much difference between push, push/pull??? i am pulling air through the sink obviously but out the exhuast


----------



## YangerD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YzGHOSTjC*
> 
> Does anyone here know how much better is push+pull comparing to just pull?


It honestly doesn't do too much. When I added a second fan for the push pull I only improved by about 1 degree so not that drastic of a change


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> It honestly doesn't do too much. When I added a second fan for the push pull I only improved by about 1 degree so not that drastic of a change


so i take im cool as well


----------



## YzGHOSTjC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YangerD*
> 
> It honestly doesn't do too much. When I added a second fan for the push pull I only improved by about 1 degree so not that drastic of a change


ok thanks for the reply, i will just leave mine to the defult


----------



## Teiji

Sorry to sound like a noob, but when the fan is facing east, that's the optimal position, right? And is that call push or pull?


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Sorry to sound like a noob, but when the fan is facing east, that's the optimal position, right? And is that call push or pull?


i assume by "east" you mean it is pushing air towards the back and blowing through the heatsink. Which means it's pushing the air... push is a fan blowing air through the heatsink, pull is a fan blowing air from the heatsink.


----------



## Teiji

I mean the fan facing toward the front panel of the case (ie. on the right side of the cooler).


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> I mean the fan facing toward the front panel of the case (ie. on the right side of the cooler).


then i would have it push air through the cooler and out your exhaust fan at the back


----------



## Teiji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> i assume by "east" you mean it is pushing air towards the back and blowing through the heatsink. Which means it's pushing the air... push is a fan blowing air through the heatsink, pull is a fan blowing air from the heatsink.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> then i would have it push air through the cooler and out your exhaust fan at the back


I've always thought push was the fan pushing the hot air from the heatsink out to whereever the fan is facing, which I'm seem to be wrong. Thanks for the clarification, Boinz and stubass.


----------



## Ferling Design

club me in


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> I've always thought push was the fan pushing the hot air from the heatsink out to whereever the fan is facing, which I'm seem to be wrong. Thanks for the clarification, Boinz and stubass.


It depends which way the fan is facing, it could be either way. The default configuration and the way most people have it is with the fan on the right side of the heatsink pushing air left through the heatsink towards the back of the case.


----------



## liquidzoo

Count me in


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Sadly, somebody said the Hyper 212 was a trashy, inefficient cooler and that Cooler Master doesn't innovate in cooling these days.

I done my best not to rip 'im a new one...


----------



## chrisys93

Hey how do i take off the heatsink from the cpu on the 212 evo, its been a long time







. Last time I put thermal paste i put quite a bit my cpu seems "stuck" on the heatsink. Im kinda scared


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisys93*
> 
> Hey how do i take off the heatsink from the cpu on the 212 evo, its been a long time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Last time I put thermal paste i put quite a bit my cpu seems "stuck" on the heatsink. Im kinda scared


Twist it.

Plus, your CPU is locked in place. It shouldn't come with the heatsink. If it doesn't want to come up, start your machine and do some high heat benchmarks, then shut down and remove the heatsink. This helps to loosen it up.


----------



## tw33k

I just installed a 212 EVO in my PC at work. I haven't had a chance to test it properly yet but I need to know if anyone was able to mount it horizontally in an AMD rig. For the life of me I couldn't work out how to do it. It would only mount vertically and I doubt it will perform as well; the case doesn't have good airflow.


----------



## KW10001

Attached to an ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 and an i7-2700k.


----------



## azeem40

I would like to say that I have the Hyper 212 and the 200mm side fan in my case without any problems.


----------



## wackydude1234

I have the 212 evo can i be a member?


----------



## rainbrodash666

load your system to 100 % to get the tim warmed up then quickly shut down and twist left and right should come right off


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> load your system to 100 % to get the tim warmed up then quickly shut down and twist left and right should come right off


And put less on next time, it shouldn't be that hard to get off.


----------



## sweffymo

I now have a kuhler 620 in my sig rig, but I would like to stay in the club because I am going to use the 212+ in the rig I'll be building out of all my spare parts that I have laying around.


----------



## Capt

is it worth installing a second fan into the hyper212+? Would it make a difference?


----------



## tw33k

Worked out how to mount it horizontally and temps dropped 8c! The EVO beat my old Zalman CNPS9700LED by 5c. I've got a second EVO to install on another PC


----------



## sweffymo

It made a big difference for me going from the single stock fan to push/pull Yate Loon mediums. Probably around 5c or so.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> It made a big difference for me going from the single stock fan to push/pull Yate Loon mediums. Probably around 5c or so.


Yeah...I added a Silverstone 120mm LED fan (1200rpm). Temps are great and it's virtually silent.


----------



## Capt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> It made a big difference for me going from the single stock fan to push/pull Yate Loon mediums. Probably around 5c or so.


Ok, so let's say I add a second fan to my hyper212+, how would I go about to setup the push/pull configuration ?


----------



## sweffymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> It made a big difference for me going from the single stock fan to push/pull Yate Loon mediums. Probably around 5c or so.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, so let's say I add a second fan to my hyper212+, how would I go about to setup the push/pull configuration ?
Click to expand...

It came with a second set of brackets, didn't it?

Just make sure that the two fans are identical, and that you don't accidentally make both fans be pushing and you are all set.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> It came with a second set of brackets, didn't it?
> Just make sure that the two fans are identical, and that you don't accidentally make both fans be pushing and you are all set.


So, both fans need to be the same cfm? Is there really a problem with non identical fans being put on the cooler? I ask because I have a case fan for the HAF 912 (replaced everything with Sickleflows and Megaflows), so I was wondering if those would be workable.


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*


What temps are you getting when folding sweffy?


----------



## darkphantom

I can't run cooler than 30C on the Evo...probably something do with ambient temps being so high =/

Anyways, is this cooler better cooled with say a GTAP15 push pull config or leave it with the stock fan?

I'm trying this


----------



## chinesethunda

stock fan, it cools better


----------



## sweffymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disturbed117*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> 
> 
> What temps are you getting when folding sweffy?
Click to expand...

55c at 4.0 ghz, 1.47v. In the winter I was getting around 52c.

Of course now I have a Kuhler 620 on my CPU, and my temps are lower... I was kind of afraid of what my temps were going to be like once it gets hot outside.

Sent from my rotary phone using Dial-a-Talk


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> 55c at 4.0 ghz, 1.47v. In the winter I was getting around 52c.
> Of course now I have a Kuhler 620 on my CPU, and my temps are lower... I was kind of afraid of what my temps were going to be like once it gets hot outside.
> Sent from my rotary phone using Dial-a-Talk


Ah, i get around 48-52c in the winter and have been getting around 55-58c now. At 3.75ghz @ 1.452v


----------



## jsc1973

Here's my Hyper 212 Plus. Push/pull configuration, with the stock fan on the bottom doing the pushing and a Cooler Master Sickleflow on top doing the pull.


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> Here's my Hyper 212 Plus. Push/pull configuration, with the stock fan on the bottom doing the pushing and a Cooler Master Sickleflow on top doing the pull.


I think you need to do some cable management bro.


----------



## Ramsey77

I got the lighting just right in this pic. I like the way it turned out.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I got the lighting just right in this pic. I like the way it turned out.


Nice. Makes it looks like an engine.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsc1973*
> 
> Here's my Hyper 212 Plus. Push/pull configuration, with the stock fan on the bottom doing the pushing and a Cooler Master Sickleflow on top doing the pull.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disturbed117*
> 
> I think you need to do some cable management bro.


This is what he needs...


----------



## Zantrill

please add


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> please add


Are you sure your fans are facing the right direction??


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Are you sure your fans are facing the right direction??


I think all the fans are backwards, so his case just has the opposite airflow that most people have.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Are you sure your fans are facing the right direction??


Yes, the 800D has 3 GT's at the top for exhaust. (heat rises of course) One at bottom for intake and I reversed the rear as intake, likewise, both HSF's are pulling air from the rear. When I did this, my idle went from 40C to 35C


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Worked out how to mount it horizontally and temps dropped 8c! The EVO beat my old Zalman CNPS9700LED by 5c. I've got a second EVO to install on another PC


I know this is kinda necro bump, but when you mean horizontally, you mean the airflow going horizontally? like right > left?


----------



## jsc1973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Disturbed117*
> 
> I think you need to do some cable management bro.


There's no window on the case, and they're not blocking the airflow, so I could care less how it looks, to be honest. The idea is to direct the hot air off the CPU, NB and the MOSFETs, and out of the case, and it does that fine.


----------



## Capt

Which way are the fans supposed to be (Horizontal facing the RAM or Vertical facing the PSU at the bottom) ?


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> Which way are the fans supposed to be (Horizontal facing the RAM or Vertical facing the PSU at the bottom) ?


I have my 212 evo cooler fan(s) installed vertically
Blowing up to the P280's 2 exhaust case fans
But keep in mind your case/fans may be different arrangement.

Blowing horizontal is probably fine too, if you blow it out to the rear exhaust case fan if you have one
Maybe cut out the rear case grille round small holes and install a wire frame grille after that for less restriction,looks better to and safety .


----------



## Capt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> I have my 212 cooler fan(s) installed vertically
> Blowing up to the P280's 2 exhaust case fans
> But keep in mind your case/fans may be different arrangement.
> Blowing horizontal is probably fine too, if you blow it out to the rear exhaust case fan if you have one
> Maybe cut out the rear case grille round small holes and install a wire frame grille after that for less restriction,looks better to and safety .


I have an antec 300 with all the five fans but my friend somehow manages to get lower temps than me and we both have the same computer components(see my sig). We are both using the hyper212+ and his temps on idle is 12c and mine is 21c. Could it be that he used a artic silver 5 and I used the stock thermal paste that came with the hyper212+? I mean, could the artic silver 5 make all the difference? I have thought about this all day and the only thing I could think of is the thermal paste being different because everything else is same.


----------



## Krusher33

I can believe a 5 degrees difference but not that much. There are other factors to consider too. Ambient temps is one of them. Another factor I can think of is the video card(s).

Besides... idle temps are sometimes faulty and should not be used for comparisons.


----------



## Capt

I'm just having a hard time believing the big difference in temperature between two similar computers. Even under load(overclocked to 3.6ghz, his temps are 32c and mine are around 41c. I'm gonna get from him that artic silver 5 and figure this out because it's bothering me.


----------



## Disturbed117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> I'm just having a hard time believing the big difference in temperature between two similar computers. Even under load(overclocked to 3.6ghz, his temps are 32c and mine are around 41c. I'm gonna get from him that artic silver 5 and figure this out because it's bothering me.


Case airflow maybe.


----------



## Tyreman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> I have an antec 300 with all the five fans but my friend somehow manages to get lower temps than me and we both have the same computer components(see my sig). We are both using the hyper212+ and his temps on idle is 12c and mine is 21c. Could it be that he used a artic silver 5 and I used the stock thermal paste that came with the hyper212+? I mean, could the artic silver 5 make all the difference? I have thought about this all day and the only thing I could think of is the thermal paste being different because everything else is same.


i have used both pastes while the coolermaster "white" paste may seem inferior i have found it to be good.

have you guys got the same fan arrangements ie exact same ones blowing in and out etc? speeds types room temps etc?

Also maybe one cooler is seated better?(oh say it isn't so)


----------



## nanoprobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> I'm just having a hard time believing the big difference in temperature between two similar computers. Even under load(overclocked to 3.6ghz, his temps are 32c and mine are around 41c. I'm gonna get from him that artic silver 5 and figure this out because it's bothering me.


How did you initially apply the paste? if you just put a dot in the middle and let it spread that could be the problem. The 212+ has those small spaces between the heat pipes and the mount and the paste tends to collect their if you don't spread it out first. Try removing the cooler and cleaning all the old paste from the mount and the CPU. Apply the paste to the cooler and use the edge of a credit card to spread it out evenly. When remounting the cooler try to not let it move around while you tighten the screws. Don't tighten them down at first but gradually tighten each screw in a criss/cross pattern until they are completely tightened. Hopefully that will help your temps but remember, not all CPUs are alike and some just run hotter than others at the same settings.


----------



## Krusher33

I find it hard to believe you guys would have exact same set ups including the graphic cards. And exact same room temps. Just saying.


----------



## Capt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tyreman*
> 
> i have used both pastes while the coolermaster "white" paste may seem inferior i have found it to be good.
> have you guys got the same fan arrangements ie exact same ones blowing in and out etc? speeds types room temps etc?
> Also maybe one cooler is seated better?(oh say it isn't so)


The fan arrangements is the exactly the same(including speed types). The room temps are very close to one another but they are not EXACTLY the same and I don't think it would make that BIG of a difference. We are talking about 9-10c difference which is a lot in my opinion. The cooler in my computer is horizontal so its facing the ram while the cooler in his computer is vertical so it's facing the PSU. Could this be it? The only thing that we have different is the thermal paste which he used an artic silver 5 and I used the stock and the way the cooler is faced inside. The ambient temp might be different but I don't think it would make the temp drop 9-10c lower than mine.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I got the lighting just right in this pic. I like the way it turned out.


added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> please add


added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> The fan arrangements is the exactly the same(including speed types). The room temps are very close to one another but they are not EXACTLY the same and I don't think it would make that BIG of a difference. We are talking about 9-10c difference which is a lot in my opinion. The cooler in my computer is horizontal so its facing the ram while the cooler in his computer is vertical so it's facing the PSU. Could this be it? The only thing that we have different is the thermal paste which he used an artic silver 5 and I used the stock and the way the cooler is faced inside. The ambient temp might be different but I don't think it would make the temp drop 9-10c lower than mine.


capt, there can be many factors, your thermal paste might have something to do with it but don't use arctic silver, use mx2 or something also, how is the wire management inside your case? if it isn't neat and organized then it is blocking airflow. Also how are the fans in your case positioned? I get excellent cooling using just 2 intake fans and no exhaust fans, removing your rear grill could help with temps a lot


----------



## lsvtec

i'm awaiting for the arrival of my refurb'd 212+ ... i'm buying it for test purposes.. due to many people bragging about how "COOL" it is..


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsvtec*
> 
> i'm awaiting for the arrival of my refurb'd 212+ ... i'm buying it for test purposes.. due to many people bragging about how "COOL" it is..


It is mainly "cool" because it does a pretty good job while only costing entry level. Also, refurb is prob not a bad idea, if you can get this like $10 or $15 total and it works like new, then might as well.


----------



## n4noAbyss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> The fan arrangements is the exactly the same(including speed types). The room temps are very close to one another but they are not EXACTLY the same and I don't think it would make that BIG of a difference. We are talking about 9-10c difference which is a lot in my opinion. The cooler in my computer is horizontal so its facing the ram while the cooler in his computer is vertical so it's facing the PSU. Could this be it? The only thing that we have different is the thermal paste which he used an artic silver 5 and I used the stock and the way the cooler is faced inside. The ambient temp might be different but I don't think it would make the temp drop 9-10c lower than mine.


You should both take pics.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> The fan arrangements is the exactly the same(including speed types). The room temps are very close to one another but they are not EXACTLY the same and I don't think it would make that BIG of a difference. We are talking about 9-10c difference which is a lot in my opinion. The cooler in my computer is horizontal so its facing the ram while the cooler in his computer is vertical so it's facing the PSU. Could this be it? The only thing that we have different is the thermal paste which he used an artic silver 5 and I used the stock and the way the cooler is faced inside. The ambient temp might be different but I don't think it would make the temp drop 9-10c lower than mine.


I'm going to be another to say take pics. Be sure to let us know which way each fans are blowing too. (ALL OF THEM)

And I'm going to bring up video card again. Could it be that you have a hotter card that is not exhausting air out the back?


----------



## Capt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm going to be another to say take pics. Be sure to let us know which way each fans are blowing too. (ALL OF THEM)
> And I'm going to bring up video card again. Could it be that you have a hotter card that is not exhausting air out the back?


Well, his GPU has a much better fan(larger than mine) and is a dual slot when mine is a single slot and has a tiny fan. Could this cause all the heat inside my computer and possibly raise the temp ?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Going to a 3570k soon, does anyone here have a Hyper 212+ on it? Or well does anyone know of a review with a Hyper 212+/Evo on it?








Otherwise i'll be sure to swap to a Macho sooner or later..


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Going to a 3570k soon, does anyone here have a Hyper 212+ on it? Or well does anyone know of a review with a Hyper 212+/Evo on it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise i'll be sure to swap to a Macho sooner or later..


Sandy is better. Ivy sucks at overclocking.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Sandy is better. Ivy sucks at overclocking.


But isn't Ivy better clock for clock? It also allows PCI-E 3.0? Which will in theory will have a higher resale value..

I dunno, lol


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> It also allows PCI-E 3.0?


Sandy-e allows pcie 3.0
40 lanes of it. Check some i7 3820 reviews.


----------



## liquidzoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidzoo*
> 
> Count me in


Think I got skipped...


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> But isn't Ivy better clock for clock? It also allows PCI-E 3.0? Which will in theory will have a higher resale value..
> I dunno, lol


The performance increase in clock for clock is not worth the trade for anything else the Ivy is worse at.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> Well, his GPU has a much better fan(larger than mine) and is a dual slot when mine is a single slot and has a tiny fan. Could this cause all the heat inside my computer and possibly raise the temp ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> But isn't Ivy better clock for clock? It also allows PCI-E 3.0? Which will in theory will have a higher resale value..
> I dunno, lol


Sandy-E also supports speeds of PCIe 3.0. Ivy is only slightly better but it isn't worth the extra $200. $50 worth maybe... but not $200.


----------



## n4noAbyss

What else is ivy worse at?

If you don't have sandy, then you should buy Ivy, it's as simple as that.

The only people this isn't true for already have Sandy.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n4noAbyss*
> 
> What else is ivy worse at?
> If you don't have sandy, then you should buy Ivy, it's as simple as that.
> The only people this isn't true for already have Sandy.


Yeah, that is what I think. Sandy Bridge offers almost hte same performance, so there isn't really a reason to spend that much money to get Ivy. Kinda like how the Hyper 212+ is good, and the Hyper 212 Evo is a bit better, but it isn't worth it to switch from a + to an Evo, but if you are a new buyer it is probably better to go with the Evo.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n4noAbyss*
> 
> What else is ivy worse at?
> If you don't have sandy, then you should buy Ivy, it's as simple as that.
> The only people this isn't true for already have Sandy.


I could have sworn the last time I price checked, the Ivy were $500 and Sandy was $300. Nevermind about my previous post then. I agree with n4noAbyss.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I could have sworn the last time I price checked, the Ivy were $500 and Sandy was $300. Nevermind about my previous post then. I agree with n4noAbyss.


I can get a 2500k for $225 or a 3570k for $249. I may have to wait a couple of days for stock of the 3570k, my local PC shop isn't massive.

I'm thinking I may sit back a week and see what happens to 2500k prices.. In that case I'd just get a nice Z77 board.


----------



## wongwarren

Thing about Ivy is that it's temperatures are weird in a way that you get to a certain voltage it's fine but once you go past that particular voltage even just up a notch temperatures soar no matter what cooling you have meaning bad for overclocking.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Thing about Ivy is that it's temperatures are weird in a way that you get to a certain voltage it's fine but once you go past that particular voltage even just up a notch temperatures soar no matter what cooling you have meaning bad for overclocking.


Yeah I was watching a video last night, I'll get it to 4.4GHz hopefully. My goal being a 1GHz overclock!

I'll probably end up getting a better cooler though,


----------



## wannabgeek

Hi Guys can u ps help me here. I have this cooler installed vertically (fan pointing up) on a m4a89gtd pro usb3 mobo which means it is covering 2 dimms. I have since realised i have a bad memory stick on sadly the 1st dimm slot which now means i am gonna have to remove my 212 just to acces the slot. Now my Qs is obviously i would rather not go through the removal/applying of thermal paste again so is it possible for me to just undo the bracket and just twist the cooler 90 degrees w/out lifting the plate off the cpu, and hopefully thus not creating any air bubbles etc. Or am i just being too damn lazy?







Reason i dont want to do this is because i had real problems installing this setup 2 yrs ago, my hands are like bunch of bananas and are not as nimble as they once were. Thanks


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wannabgeek*
> 
> Hi Guys can u ps help me here. I have this cooler installed vertically (fan pointing up) on a m4a89gtd pro usb3 mobo which means it is covering 2 dimms. I have since realised i have a bad memory stick on sadly the 1st dimm slot which now means i am gonna have to remove my 212 just to acces the slot. Now my Qs is obviously i would rather not go through the removal/applying of thermal paste again so is it possible for me to just undo the bracket and just twist the cooler 90 degrees w/out lifting the plate off the cpu, and hopefully thus not creating any air bubbles etc. Or am i just being too damn lazy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reason i dont want to do this is because i had real problems installing this setup 2 yrs ago, my hands are like bunch of bananas and are not as nimble as they once were. Thanks


My advice would be remove it and clean the old stuff off, then reapply your thermal paste.


----------



## wannabgeek

thanks ramsey. Was hoping that would not be the case.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *liquidzoo*
> 
> Think I got skipped...


sorry added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wannabgeek*
> 
> Hi Guys can u ps help me here. I have this cooler installed vertically (fan pointing up) on a m4a89gtd pro usb3 mobo which means it is covering 2 dimms. I have since realised i have a bad memory stick on sadly the 1st dimm slot which now means i am gonna have to remove my 212 just to acces the slot. Now my Qs is obviously i would rather not go through the removal/applying of thermal paste again so is it possible for me to just undo the bracket and just twist the cooler 90 degrees w/out lifting the plate off the cpu, and hopefully thus not creating any air bubbles etc. Or am i just being too damn lazy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reason i dont want to do this is because i had real problems installing this setup 2 yrs ago, my hands are like bunch of bananas and are not as nimble as they once were. Thanks


yeah... gonna hafta reclean it


----------



## Capt

I'm looking to upgrade my cpu cooler but I'm not sure which one to choose. I'm currently using a hyper212+ atm but I want a better one but don't know which.


----------



## sdmodified

thinking about picking up one of these for my new 3570k build. using a asrock extreme 4 with gskill ares ram. Anyone with experience on this setup. I just want to make sure I can run it without clearance issues. Appreciate any input.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capt*
> 
> I'm looking to upgrade my cpu cooler but I'm not sure which one to choose. I'm currently using a hyper212+ atm but I want a better one but don't know which.


What's your budget? High end air coolers are usually $70+ brand new or you could start looking into a custom water cooling kit for $150+ brand new.

Or you can look into a all in 1 water cooler like Corsair H80 or Antec Kuhler 920 but value wise it's not as good as a high end air cooler.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdmodified*
> 
> thinking about picking up one of these for my new 3570k build. using a asrock extreme 4 with gskill ares ram. Anyone with experience on this setup. I just want to make sure I can run it without clearance issues. Appreciate any input.


This is exactly what I'm planning to get!








I've had a talk to a guy on here about it, he reckons that the board is good apart from the fact that it's not the best quality.. From reviews that I've read it's got better power consumption compared to the rest of the Z77 boards. It overclocks just as well, (basically) and is rather good for the price. I guess you can't go wrong.

Mind you I don't actually have the setup yet, so I can't really tell you much more. As for the Ares ram, that's the idea. So you have no clearance issues, i'm considering regular g-skills myself. Because I like the look better!









As for the Hyper 212+ people have been getting 4.5GHz overclocks on a moderate 3570k, it's all about luck with Ivy bridge!









Good luck and have fun with your build!


----------



## Segell

sitting on my o/c Athlon II x3


----------



## jamor

Is anyone still on stock cooler master thermal paste or did you find the need to upgrade?

My worst Core on 30+ minutes of Prime 95 Maxes at 66 C and my best core maxes out at 57 C.. Doesn't seem bad but I've seen air benchmarks of 10 degrees cooler.

I have a tube of AS5 sitting in my drawer... Worth taking the time or just leave it be?

I suppose I could just use it on my Xbox and throw it away..

EDIT:

I did NOT get the Fusion 400. I got the generic red looking tube others have.

I'm OCed to 4.5 GHZ


----------



## GrofLuigi

Hi guys,

Is it normal that the Hyper 212+'s top assembly (radiator + fans) can be rotated few degrees? The machine was assembled in January and I just discovered this while trying to clean the case.

It rotates relatively easy by hand, looks like it can go all the way to 90 degrees (so it will blow vertically), but I tried only few degrees. The computer is working great, no problems whatsoever, moderate temps and no crashes. i2600K + ASUS z68 gen3.

I'm pretty sure I haven't put too much paste (the one that comes with the Hyper), and I tightened the screws super tight (in a cris-cross patern).

GL


----------



## The KurrK

I have one, see my pictures for proof. Can I be added? Before you ask, yes I'm going to reinstall it the right way. (vertically & fan facing right?)


----------



## RobertJones

Hi guys!

I know it'll probably seem weird, but I only joined Overclock.net to ask a question regarding Hyper 212EVO...

I recently bought one, to replace my Hyper TX3, because I thought that TX3 provided insufficient cooling on P4 Q6600. It turned out however that my temperatures are STILL quite high, they go all the way up to 71C on Intel Burn Test (maximum stress level), and 63C on Prime95. 71C is for the cores #0 & #1, while 68C is for the other 2 cores, #2 & #3.

Furthermore, just to point out that my CPU is overclocked to 333FSB, 3,00GHz and it usually idles at 44-45 Celsius.
VID is 1.3250V and max Tj. being reported is 100C (CoreTemp)

Eventually, "Intel Burn" reported a successful test, everything worked out OK on maximum, except for the high temperature issue I mentioned above.

Do I have to be worried, are these temperatures normal for 212EVO, or should I try with something else? Thanks in advance & please add me to the 212 group. (will provide a proof, picture if necessary)


----------



## Segell

I'm not pro but temperatures are pretty hight but nothing to worry about. Kinda wird... 45°c iddle I had with my stock fan and o/c to 3,6 ghz. With evo it's iddling overclocked at 29°c so I guess something isn't right with ur pc. Maybe case is not ventiled, maybe cpu is o/c to hight, maybe thermal paste is not as it should be uh. u should wait for some1 smarter


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Segell*
> 
> I'm not pro but temperatures are pretty hight but nothing to worry about. Kinda wird... 45°c iddle I had with my stock fan and o/c to 3,6 ghz. With evo it's iddling overclocked at 29°c so I guess something isn't right with ur pc. Maybe case is not ventiled, maybe cpu is o/c to hight, maybe thermal paste is not as it should be uh. u should wait for some1 smarter


According to many ppl, my Q6600 has a lot of "room" for additional overclock, and 3.00Ghz is considered the lowest point... Anyway, while playing GTAIV, it usually reaches 60-61 Celsius, which I STILL think it's too hot, temperature is almost the same as with Hyper TX3 with push-pull fan configuration.
What I need is someone who owns the similar CPU and/or cooler, 212EVO to confirm these readings. Because if they're not OK, I'm either going to ask for refund, sell the cooler & buy something bigger, or re-install 212 & try to mount it again with different thermal compound.

I have a big aluminum case, Coolermaster Cosmos 1000, with at least 5x 12cm fans blowing in all directions, 212 is firmly attached onto the CPU, screwed all the way down & using stock CM thermal compound... For any more technical questions, plz feel free to ask


----------



## Ramsey77

I had a Q6600 in my last rig, with the same cooler in the same exact case and had about the same temps as you. I don't think you have anything to worry about, they look about right to me. Enjoy.

EDIT: You never did state what your ambient temperature is.


----------



## xnuw

@RobertJones, fill up your pc specs & tell whats your ambient, I am in bahrain, ambient temperature right now is 38C, I getting same temperature of 36~39C using Real Temp at idle.


----------



## RobertJones

Removed, sorry.


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnuw*
> 
> @RobertJones, fill up your pc specs & tell whats your ambient, I am in bahrain, ambient temperature right now is 38C, I getting same temperature of 36~39C using Real Temp at idle.


Oops, sorry. My ambient, room temp. is usually between 28 & 30 Celsius, that's between 82.4 & 86 Fahrenheit

Rest of my PC specs:
Intel Core2 Quad Q6600
MSI P43 Neo
4GB of RAM DDR2, dual channel (2+2)
nVidia GeForce 8800GT
2x Hitachi Deskstar, 1x320Gb & 1x 400Gb SATA
Coolermaster Extreme Power Plus 620W
Coolermaster Cosmos 1000
TV Tuner PCI card, 2x Philips DVD-RW

...and of course, Hyper 212EVO with single, original 1600RPM EVO fan

EDIT
Sorry guys for double-posting, it was due to browser problems.


----------



## jdip

I've had the Hyper 212+ for months now and the first time I installed it I made the rookie mistake of using too much TIM (I was clueless and used the whole tube CM provided lol facepalm). Anyway, I thought this was the reason why I was having poor idle temps (40-43c). My loads temps were fine though.

Anyway, I finally got some Arctic Cooling MX-4 and reseated the cooler yesterday. I definitely used too much the first time and it was a bit of a pain cleaning that up. Anyway, I used the 2 line method with a lot less paste, and fired her back up. I only saw an improvement of 2c at best at idle and load! It was basically the same temps. Disappointing.









It seems like most people are getting idle temps of low 30s with the 212+ and i5 2500k. My ambient temp is ~28c.

I want to try mounting it again. When I seat the cooler should I just let the weight do all the distribution? When I did it yesterday I gave it a bit of a wiggle.


----------



## Zantrill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> I've had the Hyper 212+ for months now and the first time I installed it I made the rookie mistake of using too much TIM (I was clueless and used the whole tube CM provided lol facepalm). Anyway, I thought this was the reason why I was having poor idle temps (40-43c). My loads temps were fine though.
> Anyway, I finally got some Arctic Cooling MX-4 and reseated the cooler yesterday. I definitely used too much the first time and it was a bit of a pain cleaning that up. Anyway, I used the 2 line method with a lot less paste, and fired her back up. I only saw an improvement of 2c at best at idle and load! It was basically the same temps. Disappointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems like most people are getting idle temps of low 30s with the 212+ and i5 2500k. My ambient temp is ~28c.
> I want to try mounting it again. When I seat the cooler should I just let the weight do all the distribution? When I did it yesterday I gave it a bit of a wiggle.


wow. Size of a bebe dude, side of a bebe.


----------



## omyg

hyper 212 evo EUROPEAN edition have 1600 rpm fan (american version have 2000 rpm fan)
anyone know fan model ?
what is better 212 plus 2000 rpm vs 212 evo 1600 rpm (price almost the same)

i am afraid it will be hard to find matching 1600 rpm fan for european 212evo model,,,


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantrill*
> 
> wow. Size of a bebe dude, side of a bebe.


I didn't use much the second time, I did the two lines like here:

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> I've had the Hyper 212+ for months now and the first time I installed it I made the rookie mistake of using too much TIM (I was clueless and used the whole tube CM provided lol facepalm). Anyway, I thought this was the reason why I was having poor idle temps (40-43c). My loads temps were fine though.
> Anyway, I finally got some Arctic Cooling MX-4 and reseated the cooler yesterday. I definitely used too much the first time and it was a bit of a pain cleaning that up. Anyway, I used the 2 line method with a lot less paste, and fired her back up. I only saw an improvement of 2c at best at idle and load! It was basically the same temps. Disappointing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems like most people are getting idle temps of low 30s with the 212+ and i5 2500k. My ambient temp is ~28c.
> I want to try mounting it again. When I seat the cooler should I just let the weight do all the distribution? When I did it yesterday I gave it a bit of a wiggle.


So what is your idle/load temps as of now? I found that applying the paste to the base of the HSF (in the gaps between the pipes) and a small drop on the CPU itself works best, then force it down hard and twist a tad. Pull it off to see the spread, then place it back on carefully. Now put the back bracket on as hard as you please, - I got to the stage where I couldn't turn mine anymore and just undid it a tad.
With my Q9400 I'm getting temps of 33c/39c with Intel Burn Test!
Wait... What? I normally get up to 50c... Maybe it's 'cause it's freezing in Tasmania today. My ambient would be less then 10c.. And it's raining and my window is open









EDIT: MY GRAPHICS CARDS ARE IDLING AT 29c!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omyg*
> 
> hyper 212 evo EUROPEAN edition have 1600 rpm fan (american version have 2000 rpm fan)
> anyone know fan model ?
> what is better 212 plus 2000 rpm vs 212 evo 1600 rpm (price almost the same)
> i am afraid it will be hard to find matching 1600 rpm fan for european 212evo model,,,


Hyper 212+ is better because it comes with better Thermal paste and a much better fan! The base isn't as smooth though.. It's still rather good.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> So what is your idle/load temps as of now? I found that applying the paste to the base of the HSF (in the gaps between the pipes) and a small drop on the CPU itself works best, then force it down hard and twist a tad. Pull it off to see the spread, then place it back on carefully. Now put the back bracket on as hard as you please, - I got to the stage where I couldn't turn mine anymore and just undid it a tad.
> With my Q9400 I'm getting temps of 33c/39c with Intel Burn Test!
> Wait... What? I normally get up to 50c... Maybe it's 'cause it's freezing in Tasmania today. My ambient would be less then 10c.. And it's raining and my window is open


My idle/load temps are basically the same as before: 40c/70c. When you put paste on the base of the heatsink did you put it in lines? I thought pulling it off and then reseating it creates air pockets in the TIM which is bad?

Maybe I should tighten the HSF and backplate more. I didn't force too much because I didn't want to damage the mobo.

39c with IBT what


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> My idle/load temps are basically the same as before: 40c/70c. When you put paste on the base of the heatsink did you put it in lines? I thought pulling it off and then reseating it creates air pockets in the TIM which is bad?
> Maybe I should tighten the HSF and backplate more. I didn't force too much because I didn't want to damage the mobo.
> 39c with IBT what


All mobo's bend a bit.. lol Mine did when i installed it!










Yeah, after doing my install i head it made air pockets too.. But going from an E8500 at 4.1GHz to a Q9400 @ 3.4GHz made a idle temp increase of about 2c and a load increase of less then 4c.
My first install as i said was bad, so i'm taking it what i've got now seems to be alright.

And yes, i just got 39c max on IBT! LOL

And as i said, my backplate/HSF are screwed as tight as they can go pretty much. The tighter they are the better the contact the copper heatpipes make with the IHS.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> All mobo's bend a bit.. lol Mine did when i installed it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, after doing my install i head it made air pockets too.. But going from an E8500 at 4.1GHz to a Q9400 @ 3.4GHz made a idle temp increase of about 2c and a load increase of less then 4c.
> My first install as i said was bad, so i'm taking it what i've got now seems to be alright.
> And yes, i just got 39c max on IBT! LOL
> And as i said, my backplate/HSF are screwed as tight as they can go pretty much. The tighter they are the better the contact the copper heatpipes make with the IHS.


I'll try to tighten it tomorrow and see what happens. Might try to remount as well.

When I mounted it yesterday I noticed that I could still swivel the heatsink on the CPU (it can rotate in a circular fashion if I move it with my hand). Maybe it's not tight enough.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> I'll try to tighten it tomorrow and see what happens. Might try to remount as well.
> *When I mounted it yesterday I noticed that I could still swivel the heatsink on the CPU (it can rotate in a circular fashion if I move it with my hand). Maybe it's not tight enough.*


mines does that, I don't know if it still does anyway. But it did. Don't move it once it's installed! This did affect my temps when i bumped mine once. Only a few degrees but yeah.


----------



## KOrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> I'll try to tighten it tomorrow and see what happens. Might try to remount as well.
> When I mounted it yesterday I noticed that I could still swivel the heatsink on the CPU (it can rotate in a circular fashion if I move it with my hand). Maybe it's not tight enough.


Worth tightening

If you pull it off again tomorrow dont forget to fill the gaps where the copper pipes are (fill them with thermal) then throw down the 2 lines!


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> mines does that, I don't know if it still does anyway. But it did. Don't move it once it's installed! This did affect my temps when i bumped mine once. Only a few degrees but yeah.


Oh ok, I'll try to not bump it when I'm putting it on lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KOrr*
> 
> Worth tightening
> If you pull it off again tomorrow dont forget to fill the gaps where the copper pipes are (fill them with thermal) then throw down the 2 lines!


Yup I did that yesterday. I put some paste on the heatsink then smeared it in the grooves with a credit card and I wiped all the excess with the card after. Then I did the two lines.


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## KOrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> Oh ok, I'll try to not bump it when I'm putting it on lol.
> Yup I did that yesterday. I put some paste on the heatsink then smeared it in the grooves with a credit card and I wiped all the excess with the card after. Then I did the two lines.


Guess youll just have to make sure you air flow is good... I believe it was here on OCN I read that when they tested the Hyper 212 it did better without a rear exhaust fan (by I think 6 degrees?) Im gonna give that a shot on my rig next week when the wife and kids are out of town!


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KOrr*
> 
> Guess youll just have to make sure you air flow is good... I believe it was here on OCN I read that when they tested the Hyper 212 it did better without a rear exhaust fan (by I think 6 degrees?) Im gonna give that a shot on my rig next week when the wife and kids are out of town!


Yeah I remember seeing this too. I think I'll try it for the lulz as well.

I think my air flow is pretty good. My temps don't really change even when the 2 side panels are off so both sides are completely open.


----------



## Alastair

Hey people. I have a Hyper 212 EVO. Can I get added to this club or is there a dedicated EVO club?


----------



## phillipjos

Add me to the hyper 212 plus club,thanx
[


----------



## phillipjos

Add me to the hyper 212 plus club,thanx


----------



## phillipjos




----------



## RobertJones

So, what you guys are saying is that 40/70C are the usual, most common temps for this cooler, Hyper 212+ & Hyper 212EVO? If so, that's kind of a disappointing, I got similar results with Hyper TX3 in push-pull configuration.


----------



## Alastair

My athlon 2 645 is overclocked with lots of volts. I was hitting 75C and above @3.3Ghz at 1.4V. Now I have the 212 EVO and I've been able to go to 3.8Ghz at 1.55V and my temps never go above 45C. Hyper 212 EVO is an excellent cooler and I would reccommend it for quads and hexa-core processores.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> So, what you guys are saying is that 40/70C are the usual, most common temps for this cooler, Hyper 212+ & Hyper 212EVO? If so, that's kind of a disappointing, I got similar results with Hyper TX3 in push-pull configuration.


You said your ambient temp is 30C, you are idling 10c above ambient. My ambient is 20C and I idle around 35C which is a rise of 15, so yes your cooler is performing like it should. An air cooler can't cool any more than the air it is working with. If you want lower idle temps, lower your ambient air temp.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> So, what you guys are saying is that 40/70C are the usual, most common temps for this cooler, Hyper 212+ & Hyper 212EVO? If so, that's kind of a disappointing, I got similar results with Hyper TX3 in push-pull configuration.


It depends on the CPU and the overclock obviously.


----------



## RobertJones

Well, yes... I was referring to 4 cored CPUs, such as Q6600 and similar.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> Well, yes... I was referring to 4 cored CPUs, such as Q6600 and similar.


All quad core CPUs don't give out the same amount of heat.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by Ramsey77
> You said your ambient temp is 30C, you are idling 10c above ambient. My ambient is 20C and I idle around 35C which is a rise of 15, so yes your cooler is performing like it should. An air cooler can't cool any more than the air it is working with. If you want lower idle temps, lower your ambient air temp


I find that odd. I live in Hoedspruit South Africa and it can get quite hot around here 35C and above. And HWMonitor reports an Idle temp of 13C and a load temp of 45C. I thought that was odd but core temp reports the same values. Maybe my athlon 2 has a faulty temperature sensor? Anyway can I get added to the club using the 212EVO?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by Ramsey77
> You said your ambient temp is 30C, you are idling 10c above ambient. My ambient is 20C and I idle around 35C which is a rise of 15, so yes your cooler is performing like it should. An air cooler can't cool any more than the air it is working with. If you want lower idle temps, lower your ambient air temp
> 
> 
> 
> I find that odd. I live in Hoedspruit South Africa and it can get quite hot around here 35C and above. And HWMonitor reports an Idle temp of 13C and a load temp of 45C. I thought that was odd but core temp reports the same values. Maybe my athlon 2 has a faulty temperature sensor? Anyway can I get added to the club using the 212EVO?
Click to expand...

Yes, I would say your temp sensor is faulty.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Yes, I would say your temp sensor is faulty.


This or your CPU just defies the laws of physics lol.


----------



## Alastair

Scary! So now what?


----------



## war6000

Love to be part of the club


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Scary! So now what?


How old is your board/cpu? You could try RMA'ing it if it's still under warranty from the manufacturer.


----------



## Alastair

Got the board and processor in February. But would my processor still have warranty as its been overclocked? With that being said everything is stable. There are no BSOD's or any other forms of instability. On the stock cooler i couldnt get past 3.4Ghz @ 1.4V because of temps. At least now i'm kinda wondering if it was temps. HW Monitor on the stock cooler also reported a 16C idle temp but I would watch the temp go past 70C during a Prime95 run and then a BSOD. Then I got the 212EVO and load temps are APPARENTLY 45C and the fins or heatpipes on the cooler never get very hot. And it idles at around 12-14C. Now I'm worried I can't trust my temps im seeing!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Got the board and processor in February. But would my processor still have warranty as its been overclocked?


If you fail to mention that, there is no way they will know.


----------



## Alastair

Ah I see. Should I worry about the possible false temp readings? It appeares that everything else is working fine?


----------



## JAM3S121

are my temps high? I just rebuilt my pc in to a new case, i left the hyper 212+ mounted on the motherboard.



Its being cooled by a pwm noiseblocker xlp fan, it doesn't have much airflow in the current case though and i have the top mounted fan in the triple rad area of the switch 810 pulling air out instead of in.

its a pretty hot day also though 80F outside.

Thinking about reseating the heatsink is 45-50c a high idle?

it never reaches above 70c in applications so i don't know why I should worry


----------



## Alastair

Ramsey77 I'll post some HW Monitor screenshots when I get back to my pc on tuesday as I am away at the moment and using another computer, you can possibly advise me whether these temps are or normal or otherwise. If they aren't then I'll return the processor and get a phenom II. Thanks for the insight!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Ah I see. Should I worry about the possible false temp readings? It appeares that everything else is working fine?


It just depends on how much it bugs you. If you are fine with it, don't bother. If it eats at you and you don't mind not having a rig for a week or 2, RMA it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JAM3S121*
> 
> are my temps high? I just rebuilt my pc in to a new case, i left the hyper 212+ mounted on the motherboard.
> 
> Its being cooled by a pwm noiseblocker xlp fan, it doesn't have much airflow in the current case though and i have the top mounted fan in the triple rad area of the switch 810 pulling air out instead of in.
> its a pretty hot day also though 80F outside.
> Thinking about reseating the heatsink is 45-50c a high idle?
> it never reaches above 70c in applications so i don't know why I should worry


80F is close to 27C so you are about 18 degrees over ambient, (which in my opinion is _just_ a bit high, but could just be attributed to your lack of airflow through your case). To check how much your lack of airflow is hurting your cooler, take the side panel off, and see how big of a difference it makes. Your load temps are 43 over ambient, which is right were mine are (20C ambient, 65 load), so that is in a normal range. When it comes to air cooling, Ambient temperature is *everything* guys.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Ramsey77 I'll post some HW Monitor screenshots when I get back to my pc on tuesday as I am away at the moment and using another computer, you can possibly advise me whether these temps are or normal or otherwise. If they aren't then I'll return the processor and get a phenom II. Thanks for the insight!


You might be better asking the people over in the AMD Processor section, as I have absolutely NO experience with AMD chips. Sorry Mate.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> How old is your board/cpu? You could try RMA'ing it if it's still under warranty from the manufacturer.


You do realise Intel/AMD don't guarantee their temperature sensors at all? If you try to RMA it they probably just won't accept it.
Live with it, see if you can find the offset? I found that with my faulty E8500 that never dipped below 39c (apparently) that the temp of the motherboard matched it to 2c every time. (when it was under load) so check your motherboard temp, and maybe feel to see how hot the air is that's coming out of your case?

That or get a temp sensor and sit it on the base of the 212+ which will give you a ballpark idea!


----------



## Alastair

Yeah true that! Well I'll give sticking a sensor on the cooler a try. I'm sure that will give me a very fair idea on what's going on down there. Thanks for the assist!


----------



## Alastair

So the last question now. Can I get added to the club?


----------



## NinjaToast

Here is my Hyper 212+ in my case, keeps my 4.5ghz Intel Core i5 nice and cool









Sorry about the pic quality not using a great camera, also likes to grab the blue LEDs much more than the white LEDs. Also yes my LED controllers are on/in the HDD area.


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> Here is my Hyper 212+ in my case, keeps my 4.5ghz Intel Core i5 nice and cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the pic quality not using a great camera, also likes to grab the blue LEDs much more than the white LEDs. Also yes my LED controllers are on/in the HDD area.


Nice, what idle/load temps do you get with your 212+?

And is that the NZXT LED kit?


----------



## fbmowner

Count me in! I love my 212, best cooling for the price without a doubt.


----------



## Krusher33

All idle temps are faulty for both Intel and AMD. An aged old problem that has never been resolved.


----------



## Alastair

Are you replying to one of my earlier posts about my strangely low idle temps?


----------



## KOrr

So I tested my 212+ today without the back fan on my computer... temps raised 3-5 degrees Idle and Load.

Was worth a shot though since I had to open my case anyway!


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KOrr*
> 
> So I tested my 212+ today without the back fan on my computer... temps raised 3-5 degrees Idle and Load.
> Was worth a shot though since I had to open my case anyway!


I tried this too and it made zero difference.


----------



## TheYonderGod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> All idle temps are faulty for both Intel and AMD. An aged old problem that has never been resolved.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Are you replying to one of my earlier posts about my strangely low idle temps?


Yes, this is why - http://www.overclock.net/t/476469/the-truth-about-temperatures-and-voltages/0_20


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> Nice, what idle/load temps do you get with your 212+?
> And is that the NZXT LED kit?


Depends on how hot is outside when it's coldest in my room my idle is 25c to 29c and at load 51c to 55c using 1344FFT with 90% memory usage, don't see past 42c on the hottest core when gaming. At the hottest my idles are between 32c to 37c and at load I get 57c to 61c 1344fft with 90% memory usage, gaming I don't see past 51c on the hottest core.

Yes it is, white and blue 2m LED kits, looks better than what that picture shows.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally posted by TheYonderGod
> Yes, this is why - http://www.overclock.net/t/476469/the-truth-about-temperatures-and-voltages/0_20


That was an interesting read. I wonder how badly AMD processors is affected by this or otherwise?


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally posted by TheYonderGod
> Yes, this is why - http://www.overclock.net/t/476469/the-truth-about-temperatures-and-voltages/0_20
> 
> 
> 
> That was an interesting read. I wonder how badly AMD processors is affected by this or otherwise?
Click to expand...

Hmm, I highly doubt any of that were true... I mean, I have the same CPU, Q6600 and I set the -10 offset for Core Temp according to the instructions and it STILL says Max. Tj is 100C, not to mention my temperatures now read from 18C lowest up to 55C highest (IntelBurn test)
It just doesn't seem right *shrug*


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> Hmm, I highly doubt any of that were true... I mean, I have the same CPU, Q6600 and I set the -10 offset for Core Temp according to the instructions and it STILL says Max. Tj is 100C, not to mention my temperatures now read from 18C lowest up to 55C highest (IntelBurn test)
> It just doesn't seem right *shrug*


It'd depend on each CPU, even if that article says 10c for a Q6600 specifically.. Each diode is slightly different, therefore at 100c some can be alot more off then others. Especially seeing as these diodes are mass produced and probably not of great quality (to cut down costs to the end user naturally).

That and I'm sure after years of watching the temperature eventually they'll burn out/wear out and become less accurate!


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> Depends on how hot is outside when it's coldest in my room my idle is 25c to 29c and at load 51c to 55c using 1344FFT with 90% memory usage, don't see past 42c on the hottest core when gaming. At the hottest my idles are between 32c to 37c and at load I get 57c to 61c 1344fft with 90% memory usage, gaming I don't see past 51c on the hottest core.
> Yes it is, white and blue 2m LED kits, looks better than what that picture shows.


Those are really impressive temps. How cold/hot does your room get? And what vcore is your CPU?


----------



## NinjaToast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> Those are really impressive temps. How cold/hot does your room get? And what vcore is your CPU?


Coldest my room gets is around 21c and the hottest is 30c, give or take a few degrees considering I have a portable AC unit that my case is rather near and my vcore is at 1.344 on load. I could probably bump it down a bit as when I first OCed it on my old PSU I didn't realize that the I only had 4pins plugged in on the CPU power. So I did bump it down a bit on my new PSU, didn't test any lower as I was too tired at the time and haven't gotten around to tinkering with it since.

Edit: Also like to add that I have flipped my top 230mm into an intake and have place a 120mm fan in my 5.25" bays. Pulling in a good amount of air and the inside of my case is rather cool.


----------



## Alastair

True true! Still. I wonder if my 13C idle temps are normal. I mean after all I am using air and S.A climate is pretty warm. At least the Hyper 212EVO does it's job well. 70C @ 3.3GHZ @1.4V on stock cooler to 45C @ 3.8Ghz @ 1.5V full load is impressive stuff!







At least I know I can probably keep this cooler for at least my next PC.(If the sockets don't change dramatically!)


----------



## Segell

It's physical impossible mate







If ur room is for example 25°c cpu can't be lower than that even turned off


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> True true! Still. I wonder if my 13C idle temps are normal. I mean after all I am using air and S.A climate is pretty warm. At least the Hyper 212EVO does it's job well. 70C @ 3.3GHZ @1.4V on stock cooler to 45C @ 3.8Ghz @ 1.5V full load is impressive stuff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least I know I can probably keep this cooler for at least my next PC.(If the sockets don't change dramatically!)


One of the reasons why i love tower design coolers so much, especially the ones from CM is because they will last forever. You can always replace a standard fan with something else, which wasn't the case on earlier designs, where each series had it's own fan design, construction. Take my old Thermaltake Blue Orb FX for example, it looked awesome, but the actual cooling performance was terrible. Still, I probably wouldn't bother with replacing the entire heatsink & re-applying thermal compund if I could have just swap the fan for the new one


----------



## Quantum Reality

Are there any known LGA1155 boards for which a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ (not EVO, and not non-plus) must NOT be used due to possible shorting of the CPU contacts from the backplate?


----------



## Ramsey77

I don't think it is possible if the backplate is installed correctly.
Where did you hear this?


----------



## RobertJones

All CM backplates are coated with protective film, material. You shouldn't, under any circumstances peel it off or else you really COULD short something. Otherwise it's a fail-safe design, at least to my knowledge.


----------



## Quantum Reality

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I don't think it is possible if the backplate is installed correctly.
> Where did you hear this?


Pretty sure I saw it on OCN a year or so ago, when the LGA1155s first started coming out. Someone said their Hyper 212 backplate made electrical contact with something on the mobo; I've tried searching but the thread isn't immediately obvious.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*
> 
> Pretty sure I saw it on OCN a year or so ago, when the LGA1155s first started coming out. Someone said their Hyper 212 backplate made electrical contact with something on the mobo; I've tried searching but the thread isn't immediately obvious.


They most likely pulled the film off? I can't see how the backplate which is covered in film.. Could make contact with anything.. Unless the backplate touches the inside of the case which the motherboard uses to ground itself or something.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> They most likely pulled the film off? I can't see how the backplate which is covered in film.. Could make contact with anything.. Unless the backplate touches the inside of the case which the motherboard uses to ground itself or something.


No way even if it touches the motherboard tray can it short out because both sides are covered in film. One side for Intel, the other for AMD.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> No way even if it touches the motherboard tray can it short out because both sides are covered in film. One side for Intel, the other for AMD.


On mine not all of the AMD side was, but maybe the user peeled off the opposite side? or both sides? We don't know untill we ask them!


----------



## Alastair

A shot of my CoolerMaster Hyper212EVO doing what it does best!


----------



## Trunks

I think all my fans are too close togther, they are all blasting at 2000+ rpms Im running a little warmer then when I had one fan on the hyper 212


----------



## Alastair

Don't your fans use PWM?


----------



## Trunks

Nope lol, I turn it off so I csn overclocl, I'm in a under 70F basement so i idle around 70F and now its a little higher I'm gonna stuck with one fan on the hyper, plus that new 120mm cooler master excaliber exhaust fan I put on is a BEAST, itsd loud and blows out more air then my old regular cool master 120mm,m its just the rear fan on the hyper is too close to the exhaust, the tests I seen and what people do is run no exhaust but i want too


----------



## Quantum Reality

I don't bother with PWM either; I just let 'er rip with the stock fan


----------



## Ramsey77

I love having pwm on my board and fans. Why don't you guys like it? Just curious.


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I love having pwm on my board and fans. Why don't you guys like it? Just curious.


Because low RPM doesn't seem to have any cooling effect on Hyper212... At least I'm speaking on my behalf








In fact, I just ordered a replacement fan for my 212EVO, I bought Blade Master 120 (the original 212+ model), that SHOULD have been used on entire 212 series, instead of that 1600RPM xFlo crap or whatever the name is.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> Because low RPM doesn't seem to have any cooling effect on Hyper212... At least I'm speaking on my behalf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In fact, I just ordered a replacement fan for my 212EVO, I bought Blade Master 120 (the original 212+ model), that SHOULD have been used on entire 212 series, instead of that 1600RPM xFlo crap or whatever the name is.


Yeah, I replaced the EVO's fan with the one that came with the Plus model, and am using 2 more, 1 as the bottom intake and the 2nd for the rear exhaust. They are all hooked up via PWM headers on my MB, and my idle is around 30-35C.....and silent.. As long as they ramp up and do their jobs under load, I'm good. Got to love a silent idle.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So the last question now. Can I get added to the club?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaToast*
> 
> Here is my Hyper 212+ in my case, keeps my 4.5ghz Intel Core i5 nice and cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the pic quality not using a great camera, also likes to grab the blue LEDs much more than the white LEDs. Also yes my LED controllers are on/in the HDD area.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fbmowner*
> 
> Count me in! I love my 212, best cooling for the price without a doubt.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> A shot of my CoolerMaster Hyper212EVO doing what it does best!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Trunks*
> 
> I think all my fans are too close togther, they are all blasting at 2000+ rpms Im running a little warmer then when I had one fan on the hyper 212


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillipjos*
> 
> Add me to the hyper 212 plus club,thanx


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *war6000*
> 
> Love to be part of the club


added all of you, good looking coolers, also, if you don't have a rear fan, your temps should drop, ONLY if you do NOT have a rear grill


----------



## Trunks

I like my excaliber rear exhaust fan though its a beast! Isn't a rear exhaust still beneficial for the rest of the system like the video card right below it and such? I cut the rear grill out to help with flow but I'm gonna run one fan on the hyper, the unit is so close to the rear fan anyways I don't think I can idle lower then the 70F I do now anyways lol sorry I think I'm the only one using F instead of C temps haha


----------



## Alastair

Im not about to start cutting grills out of my pc in the quest for cooler temperatures. Any way PWM keeps your fan speeds down so its nice and quite. some motherboards like mine you can set the fan speed versus temperature to really fine tune it


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Im not about to start cutting grills out of my pc in the quest for cooler temperatures. Any way PWM keeps your fan speeds down so its nice and quite. some motherboards like mine you can set the fan speed versus temperature to really fine tune it


Most/all motherboards can do this! (By most I mean mid and high range boards). I've got mine set to do that so my fans sit on 10% while idle, and 100% at 65c. (Never happens)

I wouldn't cut out the grills, but I'm considering removing the rear fan in my HAF.. It's crap and apparently they burn out after a while so..

I'll probably cable tie it on the side!


----------



## Alastair

Yeah. well mine set to reach 100% at 55C. which doesn't often happen. my usual load temps are 45c


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah. well mine set to reach 100% at 55C. which doesn't often happen. my usual load temps are 45c


Yeah, I like the silence and my Q9400 doesn't even run hot running with the fans on 10%

As of now at 10% it doesn't pass 45c.. at 3.4GHz


----------



## auroraborealis

Can I be in?

Got a pic and everything. Granted, it's crappy quality, but hey, I don't have the money to spend on a nice camera...I spent it all on the computer!











Spoiler: Pic


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *auroraborealis*
> 
> Can I be in?
> 
> Got a pic and everything. Granted, it's crappy quality, but hey, I don't have the money to spend on a nice camera...I spent it all on the computer!


added

if you don't cut your rear grill, then you will need a rear exhaust fan to push past the barrier of the rear grill. In which case you don't need a push pull system on your cooler.
if you DO cut out your rear grill, then you could do push pull and let your cooler exhaust for you, which is ideal. check out the second to last item in my sig for data


----------



## YzGHOSTjC

Has anyone tried running 3570k with hyper 212? i heard its generally hotter than 2500k, what temperatures are u guys getting?


----------



## chinesethunda

pretty sure if you have it under 4.5ghz you should be fine


----------



## Quantum Reality

Ah-HA. That 1155 thing? Mentioned in this very thread of all places.


----------



## awaizy

Just got the EVO 212+ for my sig rig. It is so much better than stock cooling..it's absurd. So quiet and cools very well. It fit nicely in the Antec Designer 500. The best part is that it mounts in a way such that it exhausts out the back, which is rare for AMD coolers.


----------



## RobertJones

Guys, I need your advice... Having one Blade Master 120 spare, where should I mount it, in order to have the best results? On the heatsink, for push-pull, onto the back side, panel (exhaust vent) or to have it mounted onto the bottom, as the air intake fan? (CM Cosmos 1000)

And yes, I do have my back exhaust fan grill, and no, I'm not going to cut and/or weld anything







Just looking for a simple & most efficient solution, that's all.


----------



## chinesethunda

on your rear grill


----------



## Alastair

Make it exhaust because you need to give the air a little push to get it through the rear grill. I mounted my cooler vertically so that the air push/pulls towards the top of my case which has two 140mm exhaust fans.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> Guys, I need your advice... Having one Blade Master 120 spare, where should I mount it, in order to have the best results? On the heatsink, for push-pull, onto the back side, panel (exhaust vent) or to have it mounted onto the bottom, as the air intake fan? (CM Cosmos 1000)
> 
> And yes, I do have my back exhaust fan grill, and no, I'm not going to cut and/or weld anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just looking for a simple & most efficient solution, that's all.


Do an experiment and test which position works best and report back with the results.


----------



## PROBN4LYFE

There's a club for this? Put me in I have a few








Push-pull ftw!!


----------



## RobertJones

Thanks guys!

Oh, and forgot to mention this before, but I already do have fans on the back, and for the intake. The only "problem" is that they're pretty slow, probably 1000RPM at most, perhaps even slower. So it seemed logical to replace either of those 2 with Blade Master 120, that's going to be set on max. all the time, therefore 2000RPM


----------



## adridu59

Hi all, just curious to know : what kind of overclock can I expect from my i7 930 (~ average chip) with an Hyper 212 Evo equiped with stock fan ? 2x stock fans ? AP-15's ?









Thanks in advance..


----------



## Garabatos

I painted it color black.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PROBN4LYFE*
> 
> There's a club for this? Put me in I have a few
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Push-pull ftw!!


added
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Hi all, just curious to know : what kind of overclock can I expect from my i7 930 (~ average chip) with an Hyper 212 Evo equiped with stock fan ? 2x stock fans ? AP-15's ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance..


use 2 of the blademasters, its the fan that it comes with. you can expect at least 4ghz
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garabatos*
> 
> I painted it color black.


added, nice phantom


----------



## RobertJones

He said 212*EVO*, so it's xTraFlo 120, and not the Blade Master


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> He said 212*EVO*, so it's xTraFlo 120, and not the Blade Master


Still it should be good for 4GHz


----------



## bombzaway

I got a question for you guys: I have 6 fans in my case (not including my 212+ fan), but after installing my 212+ heat sink, I noticed my pc got significantly louder. I then took my side panel off while my computer was running and placed my finger on the center of the 212+ fan to slow it down a bit and it got MUCH quieter. Does the 212+ fan run at full speed 24/7? I thought the 212+ was suppose to be quite, according to many reviews.

Also, for reference, I own a coolermaster storm scout with all stock fans runnings. I've also added 3 extra low-speed yate loon fans (2 in the 5.25 drive bays and on the left side of the hdd cage).


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bombzaway*
> 
> I got a question for you guys: I have 6 fans in my case (not including my 212+ fan), but after installing my 212+ heat sink, I noticed my pc got significantly louder. I then took my side panel off while my computer was running and placed my finger on the center of the 212+ fan to slow it down a bit and it got MUCH quieter. Does the 212+ fan run at full speed 24/7? I thought the 212+ was suppose to be quite, according to many reviews.
> Also, for reference, I own a coolermaster storm scout with all stock fans runnings. I've also added 3 extra low-speed yate loon fans (2 in the 5.25 drive bays and on the left side of the hdd cage).


Do you have it plugged into the PWM fan header on your motherboard?? If so, do you have the motherboard set to control the fan speeds automatically??


----------



## bombzaway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Do you have it plugged into the PWM fan header on your motherboard?? If so, do you have the motherboard set to control the fan speeds automatically??


yeah, it's connected to my motherboard's PWM fan header. And I have no idea if my motherboard is controlling its fan speed nor do I even know how to do that. lol


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bombzaway*
> 
> yeah, it's connected to my motherboard's PWM fan header. And I have no idea if my motherboard is controlling its fan speed nor do I even know how to do that. lol


The settings are in the BIOS.


----------



## TheYonderGod

Yeah it shouldn't be loud at all, I can't even hear any of the fans in my computer unless I put my head right next to it.


----------



## Quantum Reality

I knocked my 1600 RPM Scythe thin case fan down to 75% voltage and that seems to have done the trick for noise.


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I know it'll probably seem weird, but I only joined Overclock.net to ask a question regarding Hyper 212EVO...
> I recently bought one, to replace my Hyper TX3, because I thought that TX3 provided insufficient cooling on P4 Q6600. It turned out however that my temperatures are STILL quite high, they go all the way up to 71C on Intel Burn Test (maximum stress level), and 63C on Prime95. 71C is for the cores #0 & #1, while 68C is for the other 2 cores, #2 & #3.
> Furthermore, just to point out that my CPU is overclocked to 333FSB, 3,00GHz and it usually idles at 44-45 Celsius.
> VID is 1.3250V and max Tj. being reported is 100C (CoreTemp)
> Eventually, "Intel Burn" reported a successful test, everything worked out OK on maximum, except for the high temperature issue I mentioned above.
> Do I have to be worried, are these temperatures normal for 212EVO, or should I try with something else? Thanks in advance & please add me to the 212 group. (will provide a proof, picture if necessary)


Quoting myself, just to show how much improvement you can get with Blade Masters on 212EVO. Regardless of what I was told earlier lol, I mounted push-pull on my 212. Figured I can always buy a better, more faster fan for my back panel if necessary. But having 2, identical & stock Blade Masters on my 212 somehow seemed natural, a perfectly logical thing to do, so there you have it








Improvement? Let's just say that my TOP temperature, on "maximum" Intel Burn test *doesn't exceed 65C*, and even that is the peak temperature, it's spiking between 61 and 65, even drops to 58 sometimes. And I'm talking about the hottest core, not about the coldest one!
As for the regular, every-day use, my temp dropped by *10C*

There was also one other reason why I decided to use push-pull over the standard configuration... I've noticed that EVO coolers have a nasty habit of blowing a lot of excess air between the heatsink & the actual fan. Probably because those plastic fan clips are thick, and make a wider gap between those 2. On the other hand, original 212+ and TX3 had those metal clips, which snapped into the heatsink and pulled the fan close together, as tight as it can get. So, by having push pull, I wanted to assure that there's a continuous airflow through the radiator.

So, what's the conclusion of all this? If you have the original Hyper212+, great! it really is the greatest cooler of that type, affordable & easy to use. If you have the EVO version, make sure to get yourself a new fan, Blade Master 120! Seriously, it'll be totally worth the effort, at least in my opinion. Even if you're one of those guys who worry over the noise level, don't! Because they really don't generate that much noise, my system is pretty silent at 1930RPM (according to BIOS), and both fans are set to max. (I had a LOT more noise with Hyper TX3, push-pull)

Plz feel free to ask if you have any questions & enjoy these pics


----------



## chinesethunda

thats pretty awesome, if you grab a nibbler tool and cut out your rear grill, you would eliminate the need for a rear exhaust fan, you might see more of a drop in your temps


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> thats pretty awesome, if you grab a nibbler tool and cut out your rear grill, you would eliminate the need for a rear exhaust fan, you might see more of a drop in your temps


It probably would, that's true. But I don't think I'll be cutting the rear grill any time soon... IDK, just don't think it's worth it, especially if I decide to re-use this Cosmos case for some other configuration, possibly even cooler itself. But I'm thinking of getting a 2500RPM fan for the back panel, as Sharkoon got some pretty cheap ones, that come in "P" and "S" editions. (Power & Silent)

Having a 2500RPM fan suck the air from a 2000RPM Blade Master exhaust would be more than adequate I suppose, as there shouldn't be any air bouncing off the rear panel back onto the cooler. But even with my 720RPM Cooler Master case fan, I got some pretty amazing temperatures as we speak, so I'll try not to worry over this cooling thing for a while


----------



## ranviper

A couple newer pics of mine.


----------



## chinesethunda

yeah but having a higher rpm fan makes it louder though. any of your builds could use a cut out grill


----------



## Quantum Reality

ranviper: Sliiiiiiiiick.


----------



## dragonsamus

I recently installed the hyper 212 on my overclocked i5 2500k running at 4.2 Ghz. My idle temps are around 39c. Is this normal? When its stock at 3.3 Ghz it idles at 29c. I'm a bit worried about not applying the thermal paste correctly. Thanks.


----------



## Ramsey77

What is your ambient temp? (the air temp in the room)


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragonsamus*
> 
> I recently installed the hyper 212 on my overclocked i5 2500k running at 4.2 Ghz. My idle temps are around 39c. Is this normal? When its stock at 3.3 Ghz it idles at 29c. I'm a bit worried about not applying the thermal paste correctly. Thanks.


Don't trust idle temps. Run a stress test and watch how hot it gets. If too hot, then yeah, something's amuck.


----------



## AlCapwnt

So I'm trying to install this cooler, but the sent the retention bracket assembled the wrong way, so the notch that assures it doesn't slide around is on the opposite side than it's supposed to be. Any suggestions on how I could get the screws out and flip them, without compromising the integrity of the cooler?


----------



## Nebacanezer

I'd like to join, will get a pic of my rig with the 212+ when I get back home


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlCapwnt*
> 
> So I'm trying to install this cooler, but the sent the retention bracket assembled the wrong way, so the notch that assures it doesn't slide around is on the opposite side than it's supposed to be. Any suggestions on how I could get the screws out and flip them, without compromising the integrity of the cooler?


If i'm understanding correctly the only way to fix this is take the cooler off.. And re-seat it? :/


----------



## Alastair

Id have to agree. Take it off and turn it around. Its quite a chore but worth it, at least you won't brick your machine if it slides while transporting your PC. Besides how did you get it on the wrong way? Didn't you RTM?


----------



## ManiaKsLV

My 212 EVO in HAF 922


----------



## jdip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ManiaKsLV*
> 
> My 212 EVO in HAF 922


I like your desk, where can I get one?


----------



## ManiaKsLV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> I like your desk, where can I get one?


near garage









i like it too! Fresh air good cooling


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragonsamus*
> 
> I recently installed the hyper 212 on my overclocked i5 2500k running at 4.2 Ghz. My idle temps are around 39c. Is this normal? When its stock at 3.3 Ghz it idles at 29c. I'm a bit worried about not applying the thermal paste correctly. Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nebacanezer*
> 
> I'd like to join, will get a pic of my rig with the 212+ when I get back home


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdip*
> 
> I like your desk, where can I get one?


added all


----------



## jordanecmusic

Add me to the list.

I put a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ into my rig and replaced the fan with a SilenX Effizio 120mm Blue Led Fan

This thing is a miracle from the heavens above. Dropped my CPU temps from 65 down to 40 on my i5-2500k (stock)

Need I say more?


----------



## Quantum Reality

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jordanecmusic*
> 
> Add me to the list.
> I put a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ into my rig and replaced the fan with a SilenX Effizio 120mm Blue Led Fan
> This thing is a miracle from the heavens above. Dropped my CPU temps from 65 down to 40 on my i5-2500k (stock)
> Need I say more?










Nice temperature drops!









Incidentaly I'm going to be falling back to LGA775 at some point so I'll be able to report how well a Hyper 212+ works on those older CPUs.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice temperature drops!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Incidentaly I'm going to be falling back to LGA775 at some point so I'll be able to report how well a Hyper 212+ works on those older CPUs.


I used to use it with an E5200 running at 4.2 but I forgot what was my temperatures.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jordanecmusic*
> 
> Add me to the list.
> I put a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ into my rig and replaced the fan with a SilenX Effizio 120mm Blue Led Fan
> This thing is a miracle from the heavens above. Dropped my CPU temps from 65 down to 40 on my i5-2500k (stock)
> Need I say more?


added


----------



## Nebacanezer

Here is the pic I promised


----------



## Matt-Matt

What are others with 3570k's getting? At stock i'm getting 30c idle and 50c max.. - That's with Push/Pull fans and Thermal-right Chill factor 1 paste. (It's only tempoary and the paste was drying up).

I can't overclock yet, waiting for a BF3 update before I can restart!


----------



## FaNo1ogy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> What are others with 3570k's getting? At stock i'm getting 30c idle and 50c max.. - That's with Push/Pull fans and Thermal-right Chill factor 1 paste. (It's only tempoary and the paste was drying up).
> I can't overclock yet, waiting for a BF3 update before I can restart!


I would like to know too!
I just got a 3570k and its running at a cool 50c idle and 70c max, but thats with a stock Intel cooler








needless to say i'm not happy with the skock cooler by Intel.......
So I went on Newegg and bought me a brand new CM212+ for *$9.99*, Hows that for a price


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FaNo1ogy*
> 
> I would like to know too!
> I just got a 3570k and its running at a cool 50c idle and 70c max, but thats with a stock Intel cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> needless to say i'm not happy with the skock cooler by Intel.......
> So I went on Newegg and bought me a brand new CM212+ for *$9.99*, Hows that for a price










you pulling my leg?


----------



## GunMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Sub negative 50C haha.


Wouldn't it interfere with with the first slot RAM?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FaNo1ogy*
> 
> I would like to know too!
> I just got a 3570k and its running at a cool 50c idle and 70c max, but thats with a stock Intel cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> needless to say i'm not happy with the skock cooler by Intel.......
> So I went on Newegg and bought me a brand new CM212+ for *$9.99*, Hows that for a price


Well i'm actually running 4.3GHz on stock voltage now, it doesn't go past 60c at all!


----------



## FaNo1ogy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *name*
> I would like to know too!
> I just got a 3570k and its running at a cool 50c idle and 70c max, but thats with a stock Intel cooler
> needless to say i'm not happy with the skock cooler by Intel.......
> So I went on Newegg and bought me a brand new CM212+ for $9.99, Hows that for a price :


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you pulling my leg?


What part? The cool temps with the stock cooler? or the hot deal I got for the CM212?

Here is a hint:

Newegg price = $29.99
Oem Redeem gifcard from Newegg = - $20.00

Subtotal: $9.99
Tax: $0.00
Shipping and Handling: $0.00

Total Amount: $9.99


----------



## FaNo1ogy

[
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Well i'm actually running 4.3GHz on stock voltage now, it doesn't go past 60c at all!


Thats cool matt - its alot better then my new 3570k running at 60/70c max @ 3.4Ghz/3.8Ghz - But I also live in Arizona were it was 112* outside today


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FaNo1ogy*
> 
> [
> Thats cool matt - its alot better then my new 3570k running at 60/70c max @ 3.4Ghz/3.8Ghz - But I also live in Arizona were it was 112* outside today


I did a really bad mount.. The paste was horrible and just leftover i wanted to use before it dried fully.. I've got to tweak with voltages tonight though!


----------



## Teiji

Anyone using Xigmatek XAF-F1255 120MM fan on their 212 or case?

The spec seems to be better (higher airflow and a bit quieter) than Blade Master at max setting:

Xigmatek XAF-F1255 120mm fan
1000-1800 RPM
90.3 CFM
26 dBA (Max.)

COOLER MASTER Blade Master
600-2000 RPM
21.2 - 76.8 CFM
13 - 32 dBA

I'm thinking of using Xigmatek XAF-F1255 as a back fan, while 2 Blade Masters as push/pull. There shouldn't be any air conflict, right?


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Anyone using Xigmatek XAF-F1255 120MM fan on their 212 or case?
> The spec seems to be better (higher airflow and a bit quieter) than Blade Master at max setting:
> Xigmatek XAF-F1255 120mm fan
> 1000-1800 RPM
> 90.3 CFM
> 26 dBA (Max.)
> COOLER MASTER Blade Master
> 600-2000 RPM
> 21.2 - 76.8 CFM
> 13 - 32 dBA
> I'm thinking of using Xigmatek XAF-F1255 as a back fan, while 2 Blade Masters as push/pull. There shouldn't be any air conflict, right?


No, but just don't use a rear fan if you're orienting them that way.. It makes the air get "stuck" between the fans and makes it harder to push the air out the back, along with the motor on the rear fan wearing out faster, you'll also have a spare 120mm fan to use somewhere else!


----------



## Teiji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> No, but just don't use a rear fan if you're orienting them that way.. It makes the air get "stuck" between the fans and makes it harder to push the air out the back, along with the motor on the rear fan wearing out faster, you'll also have a spare 120mm fan to use somewhere else!


Ok, so which of these is the best config?
-2 Blade Masters push-pull, no rear fan
-2 Blade Masters push-pull, with rear fan
-1 Blade Master push, 1 Blade Master as rear fan


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Ok, so which is these is the best config?
> -2 Blade Masters push-pull, no rear fan
> -2 Blade Masters push-pull, with rear fan
> -1 Blade Master push, 1 Blade Master as rear fan


2x Blade masters in push/pull is the better option here, but even a singular blademaster will get you very similar temps.. In the best case scenario you only see a 2-3c drop in temps.. The pull fan will wear out faster then the push fan also.


----------



## chinesethunda

no rear fan only works when you have no rear grill, if you DO have a rear grill, depending on how far your pull fan is from your exhaust fan, or the speed of your exhaust fan, push pull or push only would work. JUST fyi, push pull vs push is only like 2 degree difference


----------



## TheYonderGod

"only" like 2 degree difference... some people lap their CPUs for a 1-2 degree difference, I think putting an extra fan on is a less...extreme option than that ;p


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheYonderGod*
> 
> "only" like 2 degree difference... some people lap their CPUs for a 1-2 degree difference, I think putting an extra fan on is a less...extreme option than that ;p


This, but most of the time 2c isn't the difference in a 24/7 overclock.. I mean sure 2c is a little bit of temperature, but considering if i was getting within 2c of my max temp i'd downclock it a little..








Still, it does mean you might be able to run a little faster..


----------



## Krusher33

2c here, 2c there, and 2c over yonder and suddenly it's 6c difference. For some, every little bit helps.


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Ok, so which of these is the best config?
> -2 Blade Masters push-pull, no rear fan
> -2 Blade Masters push-pull, with rear fan
> -1 Blade Master push, 1 Blade Master as rear fan


I have the same configuration, 212EVO with 2 Blade Masters, in push-pull. I suppose the biggest & most significant difference between push & push-pull has to do with ambient temperature. If you're having 24-25C room temp, you should be seeing at least 4-5C difference, but as the room gets warmer, temp. is getting higher, to the point where it's ALMOST the same as with single fan. At least in my case...

As for the rear fan, my advice would be to get yourself a high CFM fan... Mine is stock CM that came with the case, 1200RPM which is obviously not enough, so I'll have to buy something better







(assuming you don't want to cut out the rear fan grill like me, in which case you don't need the rear fan in the first place)

EDIT
Just thought I'd say this... I normally wouldn't be spending money on a second fan, I just don't think it's worth the effort and/or money. But I got lucky and met some guy online who wanted to exchange his (couple of days old) Blade Master for my black Xtra Flow 120, that comes with EVO edition. Unfortunately, I already bought a brand new Blade Master at that time, so I ended up with having 2 of them & running push-pull system.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> 2c here, 2c there, and 2c over yonder and suddenly it's 6c difference. For some, every little bit helps.


Yeah, i know this. But the everyday user who isn't going to void his CPU's warranty for a 2c difference, well i know i'm not!








But yes, 2x fans is a good idea if you have the cash/have a spare 120mm fan!


----------



## Walrus69

Guys what do you think about a push and pull with 2 different cfm/rpm fans? the push is 133cfm and pull is the stock fan that comes with the 212+ ? or should i just leave only the morecfm fan? I never had time to test cause my motherboard burned xD


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Walrus69*
> 
> Guys what do you think about a push and pull with 2 different cfm/rpm fans? the push is 133cfm and pull is the stock fan that comes with the 212+ ? or should i just leave only the morecfm fan? I never had time to test cause my motherboard burned xD


If you're going to do 2 fans with different CFM put the faster one on the back!








It's pointless though, you might as well get a second blademaster or two new fans that are identical.


----------



## jfcarbel

I am almost part of the club, but I have a weird issue.

here is a bizarre one - with case on its side (horizontal) my temps at i3820 OC 4.3 Ghz at Prime95 load are 64C and I am very happy with this from a Hyper EVO. If I add 2nd Blademaster for Push Pull I can get down to 61C at load.
But, If I turn case vertical (normal tower position), then within 2 minutes the temps shot up to 80C
And if I put case back to its side position and restart Prime95, the temps return to normal 64C at load.

Anyone have an ideas on this?

Whats most likely - defective MB that has back panel plate not working to sustain weight of Hyper EVO cooler. Or that the cooler itself has bad mount and is defective?

The screws to motherboard are fully tightened and when I try to wiggle the cooler it does not give and is very snug to cpu.

I know that with Hyper EVO that there is this tension screw in middle and perhaps it is giving too much when case is vertical.


----------



## GunMetal

Do a 212 Evo block a low profile ram on the first slot? The heatsink looks kinda low to me.

Plan to buy one.


----------



## jfcarbel

No the EVO is very slim and in fact I have it working with even high profile RAM, but you must install the ram after seating the cooler.


----------



## jfcarbel

Ok was having some issues with Hyper EVO and temps, here is what I discovered. This applies to an LGA2011 socket X79 Gigabyte UD5 MB and i3820 CPU. The third time was a charm so if you are not happy with temps then try, try again. The third time I went back to store and got a new EVO then this time I did not tin the cooler bottom all I did was cleaned it quick with a little arctic surface preparer solution. I use disposable coffee filters for all my cleaning needs as its cheap and easy. I also highly recommend the Artic cleaner along with the surface purifier they make the CPU sparkle no matter how many applications.

For TIM, I used the included CM paste and use a small Pea size in middle of CPU (actually more like half a pea size as your not going to get a 3D pea size with TIM). So its as if you took a raw pea cut it in half and laid it in middle of CPU. Best way I can describe it.

So here is the comparison.

These temps are Prime95 load tests with OC i3820 to 4.3 Ghz using stock vCore.
Also ambient room temp is cool since with A/C its 70F in room.

3rd time: 56C
2nd time: 64C
1st time: 62C

One weird issue I discovered on 1st/2nd tries was was that when case was with case on its side (horizontal) my temps at 4.3 Ghz at Prime95 load are 64C but when I turn case vertical (normal tower position), then within 2 minutes the temps shot up to 80C. And if I put case back to its side position and restart Prime95, the temps return to normal 64C at load. I believe it was either a defective cooler (surface maybe not right) or too much TIM as 1st/2nd times used a 2 line method.

Hope this helps others. I am very happy with 55C OC load from a $36 cooler. These temps are as good as I see for expensive water coolers. So very pleased with this cooler.

Hope this helps others.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jfcarbel*
> 
> No the EVO is very slim and in fact I have it working with even high profile RAM, but you must install the ram after seating the cooler.


I always install the ram first! Just to be sure about this!
Well unless it's running a stock cooler, then there's nothing to worry about!


----------



## GunMetal

Almost all of my "noob's" questions are answered on this video.


----------



## Alastair

So on my hyper 212 evo I should have the xtra flow doing pull and my lower CFM fan doing the pushing? My EVO is mounted verticly so that it pushes air towards the top of my aerool vx-9 pro case which has two 140mm 1000rpm 48cfm fans at the top. They might be low cfm but they are ultra quite. I have a CM xtra flow and the stock 1200rpm CM fan, that came with my old CM case, mounted on the EVO.


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So on my hyper 212 evo I should have the xtra flow doing pull and my lower CFM fan doing the pushing? My EVO is mounted verticly so that it pushes air towards the top of my aerool vx-9 pro case which has two 140mm 1000rpm 48cfm fans at the top. They might be low cfm but they are ultra quite. I have a CM xtra flow and the stock 1200rpm CM fan, that came with my old CM case, mounted on the EVO.


The Xtra flow on the front is just fine,but the 1200RPM fan on the back will hurt air flow because it's spinning more slowly and preventing the intake from pushing air through,it'll also wear out the 1200RPM fan by making it spin faster than it is supposed to.

I'd like to be added,please. I upgraded from a 212+ to a 212 EVO because it's easier to mount and uses less TIM. I removed the xtra flow 120 that came with it for the old Blademaster 120 from my 212+.
However I'm having issues myself,my EVO is performing worse than my old 212+. I made a thread on it but thought I would ask here too. My idle temps are somehow better but on load is much much worse.
I used the typical pea size blob of AS5 and screwed the cooler down until the screws stop,but the temps are so bad I'm running the CPU stock at the moment. I left the CPU/NB @ 2800MHz. Testing with Prime 95 on blend heats the CPU up to 63C.


----------



## InsideJob

Can I be added


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*
> 
> ranviper: Sliiiiiiiiick.


lol, thanks.


----------



## chinesethunda

added insidejob and heavymg,
InsideJob, what does the top of your case look like? curious because you have your fans blowing up


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> added insidejob and heavymg,
> InsideJob, what does the top of your case look like? curious because you have your fans blowing up




2 140mm exhaust fans sucking out the air of the case. I have redone the airflow in the case to only be exhausting out the top with the exception of the PSU, all other fans are intake. I have noticed best temps on my CPU with this airflow configuration, and turning the rear 120 exhaust fan puts direct airflow over the VRM area on my motherboard.


----------



## Alastair

Holy Cow! The NZXT Phantom case is freaking EPIC!!!! To all you guys in this club with that case. I envy you all! Never have i seen such a perfectly designed case. (Yes I know its off topic in the forum but it had to be said)


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Holy Cow! The NZXT Phantom case is freaking EPIC!!!! To all you guys in this club with that case. I envy you all! Never have i seen such a perfectly designed case. (Yes I know its off topic in the forum but it had to be said)


You're so right man, even with the 410. The case is smaller then the original phantom however I do not see myself having a hard time fitting any parts in here unless I all of a sudden had a bunch of money and decided "I want 360mm rad in here" in which case there would probably have to be some modding to have it fit







I absolutely love this case and would suggest it to anyone.


----------



## chinesethunda

i have the phantom case, but i have a 360mm rad in that lol, and yes i modded it to better fit the 360mm rad, i mean it fits without modding, but i modded it.

inside job, if you cut out your rear grill, remove your rear exhaust fan, face the hyper212+ towards the back, block the top rear fan, and set the top front fan to intake, you might see more performance increase


----------



## pel

It`s been like 8 month since i installed the 212 with the thermal paste from CM, i`ve seen lately the temp are higher, the room temperature is the same more or less, just about time to change the thermal paste or might be something else?


----------



## ManiaKsLV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pel*
> 
> It`s been like 8 month since i installed the 212 with the thermal paste from CM, i`ve seen lately the temp are higher, the room temperature is the same more or less, just about time to change the thermal paste or might be something else?


lol change paste 2 time a year


----------



## SuperDeo

there is so many pages i can see my question being answered 100 times XD

but i would like to ask is the thermal paste that comes with this cooler any good at all ? and is this cooler worth it to buy


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> i have the phantom case, but i have a 360mm rad in that lol, and yes i modded it to better fit the 360mm rad, i mean it fits without modding, but i modded it.
> inside job, if you cut out your rear grill, remove your rear exhaust fan, face the hyper212+ towards the back, block the top rear fan, and set the top front fan to intake, you might see more performance increase


sorry to ask a uneducated question but are you saying put the top fan to blow air inside the case instead of out ? i have a hard time figuring out what intake and exhaust mean and in witch direction the fans blow air ?


----------



## Alastair

Yes definitely go for the hyper 212+ or EVO. They are excellent coolers for a great price. When it comes to how good the thermal paste is, well i don't know. I just used it and have no problems.


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yes definitely go for the hyper 212+ or EVO. They are excellent coolers for a great price. When it comes to how good the thermal paste is, well i don't know. I just used it and have no problems.


k thanks i just ordered one too had doubts because of the low price


----------



## Teiji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperDeo*
> 
> sorry to ask a uneducated question but are you saying put the top fan to blow air inside the case instead of out ? i have a hard time figuring out what intake and exhaust mean and in witch direction the fans blow air ?


Intake = taking fresh air from your room into your case.
Exhaust = pushing hot air inside your case out to your room.

All fans have arrows showing the rotation and airflow direction. Position them as intake or exhaust is up to you.


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Intake = taking fresh air from your room into your case.
> Exhaust = pushing hot air inside your case out to your room.
> All fans have arrows showing the rotation and airflow direction. Position them as intake or exhaust is up to you.


Perfect! rep+ easy to understand Thanks!


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperDeo*
> 
> Perfect! rep+ easy to understand Thanks!


Easiest & most efficient way to recognize intake/exhaust is to look at the fan itself... The side that is opened, where you can see the fan spinning is the intake part, meaning it's sucking the air, while the other side (that is closed and usually has wires leading to the center, motor) is the exhaust side, meaning it's blowing the air.

But yeah, if you're still not sure about which side is which, always look for those 2 arrows somewhere on the frame.

An example of the exhaust side:


An example of the intake side:


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> Easiest & most efficient way to recognize intake/exhaust is to look at the fan itself... The side that is opened, where you can see the fan spinning is the intake part, meaning it's sucking the air, while the other side (that is closed and usually has wires leading to the center, motor) is the exhaust side, meaning it's blowing the air.
> But yeah, if you're still not sure about which side is which, always look for those 2 arrows somewhere on the frame.


If all else fails, use a tissue or paper.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pel*
> 
> It`s been like 8 month since i installed the 212 with the thermal paste from CM, i`ve seen lately the temp are higher, the room temperature is the same more or less, just about time to change the thermal paste or might be something else?


It could also be rise in heat because of summer. And the cooler may be having dust in it. Take fan off to see.


----------



## RobertJones

True lol! Anyway, updated my post with couple of pics from the another topic, just for illustration purposes.


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobertJones*
> 
> Easiest & most efficient way to recognize intake/exhaust is to look at the fan itself... The side that is opened, where you can see the fan spinning is the intake part, meaning it's sucking the air, while the other side (that is closed and usually has wires leading to the center, motor) is the exhaust side, meaning it's blowing the air.
> But yeah, if you're still not sure about which side is which, always look for those 2 arrows somewhere on the frame.
> An example of the exhaust side:
> 
> An example of the intake side:


WOW Thanks That's even better and my fans look like that just different color that's so easy to understand thanks so much i didn't know that. rep+

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> If all else fails, use a tissue or paper.


HAha! true true


----------



## Walrus69

Hey guys! I installed my hyper 212+ and overclocked my cpu to 3.7ghz @1. 32 vcore and i used "occt" to test stability, in around 3-4 minutes my cpu Temperature goes to almost 60c. Im wondering did i put in too much thermal compound or is this really around how hot these coolers & cpus' run?

My system Specs:

AMD Phenom II 960t (O.C 3.7Ghz) W/ CM hyper 212+ ( 3k Rpm Ultra kamikaze attached to the cooler)
Asus Crosshair IV Formula
XFX Double D 6870 1gb
8gb Ram G.Skill 1333mhz


----------



## pel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> It could also be rise in heat because of summer. And the cooler may be having dust in it. Take fan off to see.


Is not due to summer heat, compared to the end of the summer temps wich are more or less the same they differ 8-10 degree, i usually clean the pc but since i have to unmount the fan kinda forgot the 212+ i cheked today and there was quite a lot of dust.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*
> 
> ...
> I used the typical pea size blob of AS5 and screwed the cooler down until the screws stop,but the temps are so bad I'm running the CPU stock at the moment. I left the CPU/NB @ 2800MHz. Testing with Prime 95 on blend heats the CPU up to 63C.


Redo the TIM, but this time use 3 thin lines. The pea method is not the best for the 212s.

Check this out and you can see why the pea method is not the best method for these coolers. The photo is of the 212+ but you will see that it's relevant for the EVO, too. I used the line method on both the 212+ and my EVO units and noticed my core temps were more consistent across the board.

Al


----------



## chinesethunda

redo your TIM, make sure to clean it well before hand.

as to your intake and exhaust question, look at the fan, when the blades are convex facing you, its pushing away from you.

robertjones, those akasas look really nice, idk why but I always want more fans >_>


----------



## RobertJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> redo your TIM, make sure to clean it well before hand.
> as to your intake and exhaust question, look at the fan, when the blades are convex facing you, its pushing away from you.
> robertjones, those akasas look really nice, idk why but I always want more fans >_>


LOL, thanks but those are not mine







Too bad actually, because I seem to have the same passion for computer fans as you do. (I found those on Google, they were from some other topic here on Overclock.net)

But speaking of my own fan collection, I'm going to get myself a 2500RPM fan soon, to mount on the back of the case, behind 212EVO. Also planning to buy one of those PWM splitters, to control those 2 Blade Masters at the same time. I even calculated the necessary percentage, needed for optimal cooling performance. I suppose min. would be equal to 60% of 2000RPM, therefore 1200... Then once Q6600 gets hot enough, MBO will crank them up to full speed


----------



## SuperDeo

fixed


----------



## ranviper

Already in the club, but snagged a cool pic of mine.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Any advice on one or two (push/pull) fans that I could replace the stock fan with to make this quieter? I wouldn't have bothered with this but I recently bought a psu from a member here that is almost completely silent compared to my last blow dryer of a psu, so the constant whine of the fan ramping up when browsing around the web is annoying (ofc not too annoying, but why not go silent?







).


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Any advice on one or two (push/pull) fans that I could replace the stock fan with to make this quieter? I wouldn't have bothered with this but I recently bought a psu from a member here that is almost completely silent compared to my last blow dryer of a psu, so the constant whine of the fan ramping up when browsing around the web is annoying (ofc not too annoying, but why not go silent?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Pretty much anything, but GTs and Cougar 120mm is my recommendation

Also answer the questions on this thread please: http://www.overclock.net/t/1264002/need-a-recommendation-for-a-good-overclocking-cooler/10#post_17376779


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Redo the TIM, but this time use 3 thin lines. The pea method is not the best for the 212s.
> Check this out and you can see why the pea method is not the best method for these coolers. The photo is of the 212+ but you will see that it's relevant for the EVO, too. I used the line method on both the 212+ and my EVO units and noticed my core temps were more consistent across the board.
> Al


Thanks,I wasn't aware that the EVO needed the line method like the 212+. My EVO is flat,but probably not smooth enough to use the pea method.
Are 3 lines applied directly to the copper contact pipes like the 212+?


----------



## GunMetal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Redo the TIM, but this time use 3 thin lines. The pea method is not the best for the 212s.
> Check this out and you can see why the pea method is not the best method for these coolers. The photo is of the 212+ but you will see that it's relevant for the EVO, too. I used the line method on both the 212+ and my EVO units and noticed my core temps were more consistent across the board.
> Al


How does this 3 thin lines will look like? Is this the letter N pattern I've seen in a video?


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ranviper*
> 
> Already in the club, but snagged a cool pic of mine.


does your top fan blow air in or out ?


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Any advice on one or two (push/pull) fans that I could replace the stock fan with to make this quieter? I wouldn't have bothered with this but I recently bought a psu from a member here that is almost completely silent compared to my last blow dryer of a psu, so the constant whine of the fan ramping up when browsing around the web is annoying (ofc not too annoying, but why not go silent?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty much anything, but GTs and Cougar 120mm is my recommendation
> 
> Also answer the questions on this thread please: http://www.overclock.net/t/1264002/need-a-recommendation-for-a-good-overclocking-cooler/10#post_17376779
Click to expand...

With the price of those fans, would t be worth for me to just sell this one and get a silent cooler?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*
> 
> Thanks,I wasn't aware that the EVO needed the line method like the 212+. My EVO is flat,but probably not smooth enough to use the pea method.
> Are 3 lines applied directly to the copper contact pipes like the 212+?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunMetal*
> 
> How does this 3 thin lines will look like? Is this the letter N pattern I've seen in a video?


The idea behind TIM isn't just about heat transfer but to also fill the crevices. With that in mind, apply the TIM in lines so that when it's squeezed down, it'll fill the crevices and do a complete cover over the entire surface of the contact between the cooler and the CPU.


----------



## ranviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperDeo*
> 
> does your top fan blow air in or out ?


Top fans and rear fan are exhaust. Hot air going out. Side panel and front panel fans are intake. Hyper 212 is push/pull pushing cool air from the fron intake's and the hot air thru to the rear exhaust.


----------



## chinesethunda

if your cooler is closer to the top fans, you should try top front fan as an intake.

I was so tempted to get the 5400rpm fans for 5 bucks lol, but i have at least 15 fans sitting in my closet that i don't use =(


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> if your cooler is closer to the top fans, you should try top front fan as an intake.


2nd. I know they were meant to be exhaust but I saw temperature dropped in mine too when I had the Hyper 212+ in my system. I now have them back as exhaust because I'm using an H60 now.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Are scythe slip streams relatively quiet (on a 212 plus)?


----------



## Krusher33

I have a Slip Stream but I thought the stock fan was quiet enough so I never changed it out. But yeah, they're somewhat quiet. I got them when an old case had 80mm on the side panel. Changed that and it was much, much quieter.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*
> 
> Thanks,I wasn't aware that the EVO needed the line method like the 212+. My EVO is flat,but probably not smooth enough to use the pea method.
> Are 3 lines applied directly to the copper contact pipes like the 212+?


Yes apply them to the contact pipes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GunMetal*
> 
> How does this 3 thin lines will look like? Is this the letter N pattern I've seen in a video?


No, just 3 thin lines (edge, center, edge, but not too close to the edges) | | | Don't overdo it though.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> 2nd. I know they were meant to be exhaust but I saw temperature dropped in mine too when I had the Hyper 212+ in my system. I now have them back as exhaust because I'm using an H60 now.


if your h60 is in the rear, is it exhaust or intake?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Are scythe slip streams relatively quiet (on a 212 plus)?


Depends at what rpm and which SS. At higher rpm, I think they are just as loud as the Blademaster, while much quieter at low rpms.

The way I see it is, if you ever plan on getting nice fans for a 212+, I wouldn't have gotten a 212+ in the first place. I had overzealous friends who recommended the 212+ to me and I gave it a tried and was soon very disappointed how loud the stock fan was. I immediately got a NH-D14 and swap out those fans too for what I have now.

212+ is only good if you never plan to swap out fans, only add and extra. Even then, only good for the price. Other HSFs have invaded this price point with slightly better performance too.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> if your h60 is in the rear, is it exhaust or intake?


Exhaust. When I had the 2 top fans intaking with it... the temps kept climbing. My theory was that the same warm air was getting recirculated through the radiator again. So I flipped them back over to exhaust and saw better temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Depends at what rpm and which SS. At higher rpm, I think they are just as loud as the Blademaster, while much quieter at low rpms.
> The way I see it is, if you ever plan on getting nice fans for a 212+, I wouldn't have gotten a 212+ in the first place. I had overzealous friends who recommended the 212+ to me and I gave it a tried and was soon very disappointed how loud the stock fan was. I immediately got a NH-D14 and swap out those fans too for what I have now.
> 212+ is only good if you never plan to swap out fans, only add and extra. Even then, only good for the price. Other HSFs have invaded this price point with slightly better performance too.


Unless the 212+ is on sale for $20-25 which it's often is.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Depends at what rpm and which SS. At higher rpm, I think they are just as loud as the Blademaster, while much quieter at low rpms.
> The way I see it is, if you ever plan on getting nice fans for a 212+, I wouldn't have gotten a 212+ in the first place. I had overzealous friends who recommended the 212+ to me and I gave it a tried and was soon very disappointed how loud the stock fan was. I immediately got a NH-D14 and swap out those fans too for what I have now.
> 212+ is only good if you never plan to swap out fans, only add and extra. Even then, only good for the price. Other HSFs have invaded this price point with slightly better performance too.


I believe I got mine for $10 AR about a year ago, so that was my reasoning. I'm not so much concerned with the sound of air being moved as I am with the motor ramping up and down noisily while I'm doing something as simple as browsing the web; something I didn't notice until I swapped out my psu a few days ago. Rather than spend another $50+ on a new cooler, I thought I'd just go in search of a fan that would be similar in performance but not make the whining/moan of ramping up and down. That said, I did some browsing and am still totally confused by the massive selection of fans. Also, I do have fan controller that has a pwm connection that I use for the case fans, but I currently just plug the 212+ fan into the CPU header and the controller into the board header.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I believe I got mine for $10 AR about a year ago, so that was my reasoning. I'm not so much concerned with the sound of air being moved as I am with the motor ramping up and down noisily while I'm doing something as simple as browsing the web; something I didn't notice until I swapped out my psu a few days ago. Rather than spend another $50+ on a new cooler, I thought I'd just go in search of a fan that would be similar in performance but not make the whining/moan of ramping up and down. That said, I did some browsing and am still totally confused by the massive selection of fans. Also, I do have fan controller that has a pwm connection that I use for the case fans, but I currently just plug the 212+ fan into the CPU header and the controller into the board header.


Ever tried Speedfan? You can set fan speeds based on temps. Say your cpu is relatively cool (under 45C) when browsing, you set the speed to run at 30% by default, once its past 45C, the fan speeds up. And you can customize the temp vs rpm curve too! That should pretty much solve most of your problem. If you still find it loud, then you obviously need a new fan.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Ever tried Speedfan? You can set fan speeds based on temps. Say your cpu is relatively cool (under 45C) when browsing, you set the speed to run at 30% by default, once its past 45C, the fan speeds up. And you can customize the temp vs rpm curve too! That should pretty much solve most of your problem. If you still find it loud, then you obviously need a new fan.


I had used that when I first bought my PC, but I only thought to use the UEFI BIOS profiles. I'll give it a shot and let you know how it goes! (rep+)

EDIT: I had this same problem when I used speedfan in the past: it reads my cpu temp as -60 C. Any way around this?


----------



## chinesethunda

try making your h60 an intake


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah there will be some rearranging going someday soon. Right now I have the Kuhler 620 that is cooling the GPU as intake inside the drive bays. I had thought about putting that on the floor, and move the H60 to the drive bays.

But then I just got a word that I'll be having a 240 radiator and a res on the way. So there's a chance I may be going full customed anyways.

Leaving it as it is for right now. The CPU isn't doing much anyways. I'm folding on the GPU for Team Competitions and so that needs all the cool air it can get.

I'll be using my 212+ again soon. I'm planning a build for family PC so I can move my gaming/folding rig downstairs in my man cave.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I had used that when I first bought my PC, but I only thought to use the UEFI BIOS profiles. I'll give it a shot and let you know how it goes! (rep+)
> EDIT: I had this same problem when I used speedfan in the past: it reads my cpu temp as -60 C. Any way around this?


Does every temp have the same offset error? You can use real temp or whatever other program to check for the real temps. As long as the error is consistent and linear, it isn't too bad. All you have to do is run something that will increase the temp a bit (like a light game), and set up your fans for that temp.

Another solution is use the newest version of Speed fan or possibly update your BIOS. I've noticed that a lot of people get temp errors with Speedfan, even I do, but not useful temps I normally monitor.

Last solution might be to use FanXpert as it is similar to Speedfan. I think Speedfans just has a few extra features which were a big plus to me.

Hope this fixes it.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Does every temp have the same offset error? You can use real temp or whatever other program to check for the real temps. As long as the error is consistent and linear, it isn't too bad. All you have to do is run something that will increase the temp a bit (like a light game), and set up your fans for that temp.
> Another solution is use the newest version of Speed fan or possibly update your BIOS. I've noticed that a lot of people get temp errors with Speedfan, even I do, but not useful temps I normally monitor.
> Last solution might be to use FanXpert as it is similar to Speedfan. I think Speedfans just has a few extra features which were a big plus to me.
> Hope this fixes it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Does every temp have the same offset error? You can use real temp or whatever other program to check for the real temps. As long as the error is consistent and linear, it isn't too bad. All you have to do is run something that will increase the temp a bit (like a light game), and set up your fans for that temp.
> Another solution is use the newest version of Speed fan or possibly update your BIOS. I've noticed that a lot of people get temp errors with Speedfan, even I do, but not useful temps I normally monitor.
> Last solution might be to use FanXpert as it is similar to Speedfan. I think Speedfans just has a few extra features which were a big plus to me.
> Hope this fixes it.


At ~800 RPM this fan is still noisy. I dusted the inside of my PC today and I swear the fan got even nosier (motor). I think I'm left with two options; find a suitable, silent replacement fan(s) or just buy a new cooler (not a 212+). This cooler served me well for the year in which the psu in my PC was by far the noisiest part, but now that I've gone relatively silent, it's time for a change. I guess my question is, are there any suitable fan models (specific) that are very silent but could still cool this as well as the stock blademaster fan?


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> At ~800 RPM this fan is still noisy. I dusted the inside of my PC today and I swear the fan got even nosier (motor). I think I'm left with two options; find a suitable, silent replacement fan(s) or just buy a new cooler (not a 212+). This cooler served me well for the year in which the psu in my PC was by far the noisiest part, but now that I've gone relatively silent, it's time for a change. I guess my question is, are there any suitable fan models (specific) that are very silent but could still cool this as well as the stock blademaster fan?


So here is the big dilemma... Well, are you content with the amount of cooling the 212+ has to offer? If not, then get a new cooler.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> So here is the big dilemma... Well, are you content with the amount of cooling the 212+ has to offer? If not, then get a new cooler.


Yep, I'm fine the the cooling. It's a fairly crappy chip to begin with, so heavy overclocking is not in my future. I just want to know if there are fans that would be silent on this cooler tower.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Yep, I'm fine the the cooling. It's a fairly crappy chip to begin with, so heavy overclocking is not in my future. I just want to know if there are fans that would be silent on this cooler tower.


For a cheap, and quiet PWM fan, this is probably hard to beat: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185144

It is PWM despite the incorrect description, just look at the pics which are correct. Very misleading I know.

If you're willing to spend more, the TY-140 is a good option except I'm not sure how to mount it.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> For a cheap, and quiet PWM fan, this is probably hard to beat: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185144
> It is PWM despite the incorrect description, just look at the pics which are correct. Very misleading I know.
> If you're willing to spend more, the TY-140 is a good option except I'm not sure how to mount it.


Thanks for the recommendation! I think I'll go for the Scythe. Is there any benefit besides slightly lower temperatures with a push/pull configuration? rep+

EDIT: There is a review on newegg by a person (3 eggs) who was having higher temps with these fans because they concentrate the air to the outer rims of the blades rather than the center. I notice this in a couple of my yate loon case fans, but it's not a big deal for their purpose.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Thanks for the recommendation! I think I'll go for the Scythe. Is there any benefit besides slightly lower temperatures with a push/pull configuration? rep+
> EDIT: There is a review on newegg by a person (3 eggs) who was having higher temps with these fans because they concentrate the air to the outer rims of the blades rather than the center. I notice this in a couple of my yate loon case fans, but it's not a big deal for their purpose.


Tehy pretty much all do that which is why people put on shrouds. Though it's not needed much on air coolers because the tubes are to the outside.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Thanks for the recommendation! I think I'll go for the Scythe. Is there any benefit besides slightly lower temperatures with a push/pull configuration? rep+
> EDIT: There is a review on newegg by a person (3 eggs) who was having higher temps with these fans because they concentrate the air to the outer rims of the blades rather than the center. I notice this in a couple of my yate loon case fans, but it's not a big deal for their purpose.


According to a thread which tested the differences in temps between push/pull and single fan, there isn't a difference. But it seems like they were running the fans at 2000rpm+ which should easily be more cooling for the amount of conduction from the heatsink. If you put two of those Scythes in push/pull, you'd probably get away with lower speeds for the same amount of cooling, meaning less noise.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Yep, I'm fine the the cooling. It's a fairly crappy chip to begin with, so heavy overclocking is not in my future. I just want to know if there are fans that would be silent on this cooler tower.


Xigmatek XAF-F1255


----------



## chinesethunda

idk why you guys are having troubles with the blademaster fans, i think maybe you just need to oil them. mine aren't loud at all. and I love them in push pull. they push more air and cool better than gt ap15s


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> idk why you guys are having troubles with the blademaster fans, i think maybe you just need to oil them. mine aren't loud at all. and I love them in push pull. they push more air and cool better than gt ap15s


Do you know of any guides for oiling them? I tried to oil a scratchy yate loon and wound up breaking part of the motor.







The blademaster on my 212 right now has a combination of fast ticking and whining.

Also, has anyone been able to mount the TY-140s on the 212+ without any major modifications? I might be ale to get a pair at a decent price.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Do you know of any guides for oiling them? I tried to oil a scratchy yate loon and wound up breaking part of the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blademaster on my 212 right now has a combination of fast ticking and whining.


Check this. Only for sleeve bearings.


----------



## RobertJones

IDK about you guys, but I love my Blade Masters







They're only loud at max. RPM, and when placed outside the case. (for testing purposes, obviously) I have 2x Blade Master 92, mounted on 2 different systems (with Hyper TX3), and they're both doing outstanding work. In fact this machine right here, that I'm using to write this has BM fan running at 1247RPM, and you can barely hear anything! Obviously, it's meant to go all the way up to 2700RPM, but even at 1247 there's enough airflow to cool Hyper TX3, as my CPU temp is roughly 30C (single-cored P4 Prescott, 3.00 OC to 3.70GHz)

Same with Blade Master 120, except it blows even more air due to larger blades & surface


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Also, has anyone been able to mount the TY-140s on the 212+ without any major modifications? I might be ale to get a pair at a decent price.


Shouldn't be much of a problem since the TY-140s has 120mm fan mounting holes if I'm right.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Shouldn't be much of a problem since the TY-140s has 120mm fan mounting holes if I'm right.


Only problem might be getting clips to work. wongwarren is correct in assuming they have 120mm mounting holes.
Edit: Because 140 isn't square at mounting holes like 120mm fan housing, you will need to bend the wire clips to fit around the fan housing and reach the mounting holes


----------



## Nickc84




----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickc84*










Suggest you Google 212+ and look at reviews and images if you need more proof of clip mounting









http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/19383-cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-cpu-cooler-review.html

and here
http://www.guru3d.com/article/cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-review/

and here
http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2419&page=1

and modification is required to clip onto TY-140 fan.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Only problem might be getting clips to work. wongwarren is correct in assuming they have 120mm mounting holes.
> Edit: Because 140 isn't square at mounting holes like 120mm fan housing, you will need to bend the wire clips to fit around the fan housing and reach the mounting holes


I'll be able to mount it no problem though because mine is using the plastic fan bracket.


----------



## ohhgourami

Except the plastic bracket will be covering airflow, which causes turbulence and noise...


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ohhgourami*
> 
> Except the plastic bracket will be covering airflow, which causes turbulence and noise...


True that. Doesn't matter to me though, I wouldn't be able to hear anything over the shopping mall air conditioner behind my house. That's where my headphones come in.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Suggest you Google 212+ and look at reviews and images if you need more proof of clip mounting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/19383-cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-cpu-cooler-review.html
> and here
> http://www.guru3d.com/article/cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-review/
> and here
> http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2419&page=1
> and modification is required to clip onto TY-140 fan.


My 212+ came with the plastic mounting brackets you see in the Newegg 212+ pictures, not clips. I had no problems at all mounting my two TY-140s to it. They were dead quiet and performed better than the stock fan. I still think my Cougar Vortex fans were a little better on it, but the TY-140s work and are dead quiet. I just couldn't stand the sound of my Blademaster fan. It was obnoxiously loud and sounded like it might have a bad bearing.


----------



## doyll

Appears there are at least 3 different fan mounting systems on 212.

TY-140 is great fan. I'm using on my system.


----------



## nubbinator

Yeah, the TY-140s are fantastic. The TY-140s, TY-150s, and Cougar Vortex fans are probably the best fans I've ever used. I've got some 140mm Bitfenix Spectre Pros that were supposed to be awesome, but they feel rather anemic and are unpleasant at 100%. There's just something about the frequency of noise they make that makes them unbearable. I have to tone them down to 75-85% for them to not be unpleasant.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I'll be able to mount it no problem though because mine is using the plastic fan bracket.


Good. Problem solved:thumb:


----------



## Bomster

Got a 212 EVO being delivered this week.

A few questions before I become a fully fledged member:


Is the best method for applying paste - 2 small lines, or pea shape?
When fixing it to the mobo, I heard you should tighten each screw 3 turns at a time, going diagonally?
Once I have finished fitting the cooler, a friend recommended doing a 24hr bench test to make sure the thermal paste is properly 'set in'?
Would appreciate some of your knowledge.
Cheers in advance.
Tom


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> Got a 212 EVO being delivered this week.
> A few questions before I become a fully fledged member:
> 
> Is the best method for applying paste - 2 small lines, or pea shape?
> When fixing it to the mobo, I heard you should tighten each screw 3 turns at a time, going diagonally?
> Once I have finished fitting the cooler, a friend recommended doing a 24hr bench test to make sure the thermal paste is properly 'set in'?
> Would appreciate some of your knowledge.
> Cheers in advance.
> Tom


1. Apply TIM is a small line on each of the pipes
2. you could tighten it 5 turns each, or even 7 but diagonally is the best way to go
3. doesn't matter, you can, or you can just start using it, if it starts being hot during normal use, then you know something is wrong.
you could always post your temps here after you are done for opinions, usually depending on your OC 60 ish load is okay


----------



## Infinite Jest

I ordered a PWM splitter from amazon to set up a push/pull configuration on a 212+ that supposedly only had one lead with all 4 pins. However, It arrived today and both leads have all 4 wires. I assume this will lead to inaccurate rpm readings, so I'll have to cut one of the tachometer wires. My question for you guys; which wire do I cut? The green one?


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I ordered a PWM splitter from amazon to set up a push/pull configuration on a 212+ that supposedly only had one lead with all 4 pins. However, It arrived today and both leads have all 4 wires. I assume this will lead to inaccurate rpm readings, so I'll have to cut one of the tachometer wires. My question for you guys; which wire do I cut? The green one?


BLACK: Negative
RED: Positive
YELLOW: Tacho
BLUE: PWM Control

Source: http://pcbheaven.com/wikipages/How_PC_Fans_Work/

don't take my word use source and i wanted to know same thing couple days ago







so the searching is done


----------



## Krusher33

I confirm that the yellow is tach and green is the PWM.


----------



## Infinite Jest

So I'll need to cut the yellow wire on one to get just an accurate tach reading and appropriate speed for both (based on tach reading of one)?


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I confirm that the yellow is tach and green is the PWM.


This sounds legit








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> So I'll need to cut the yellow wire on one to get just an accurate tach reading and appropriate speed for both (based on tach reading of one)?


i don't know









But i do know that it will run at full speed (MAYBE) if you use only red and black like a molex BUT since the PWM will regulate the voltage then it Might run at same speed as your pwm fan but you would not get full speed out of those two fans since they will share voltage and will never ramp up to higher speeds ?

Other Thoughts i would not do what you are about to do







because you can overload the motherboard fan header which was designed for one fan per header.

you might consider this you plug it into your power supply via molex and the other end you plug to the CPU fan header that only sends sense not power meaning you can use as many fans as supported by the split cables
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248
if you look at the pictures for that cable it go's like this
BLACK: Negative
YELLOW: Positive
GREEN: Tacho
BLUE: PWM Control
you can see in the picture that only one fan has Tacho and the two other ones do not have Tacho


----------



## unifiedshader

If it's the OKGear splitter I am using the same one. Cut the yellow tacho on one of them. Leave the other one alone. You can now use the splitter but only with two identical fans, as different fans would have different tacho:voltage curves. So just make sure the fans are the same and you will be fine. My push-pull config is with two Blademaster 120mms for example, and the fan with a functional tacho (yellow) wire will tell the mobo that BOTH fans are spinning at that speed. Mobo/BIOS will then adjust speed accordingly via PWM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> No, but just don't use a rear fan if you're orienting them that way.. It makes the air get "stuck" between the fans and makes it harder to push the air out the back, along with the motor on the rear fan wearing out faster, you'll also have a spare 120mm fan to use somewhere else!


A 120mm Blademaster will crush that Xigmatek if they are being used as HSF, where static pressure is much more important (pushing air into metal obstruction is a lot different than pushing air into air). A Bladmaster 120mm has something like 3.9mmH2O static pressure at max, one of the highest for any 120mmx120mmx25mm fan. It's nearly DOUBLE what a Gentle Typhoon AP-15 gives, IIRC. Of course it's also a sleeve-bearing fan and noisier, but it's cheap and gets the job done.

Besides, this is a thread about the Hyper 212+ so I assume budget matters.









Side note: the 212 EVO comes with a XtraFlo 120mm, which is worse than the Blademaster 120mm that comes with the Hyper 212+. Yes you read that right. They upgraded the heatsink and downgraded the fan at the same time... it's still a net upgrade but it would have been slightly better to keep the same fan.

212+ Blademaster = 3.9mmH2O static pressure, high 70s cfm
212 EVO = 2.7mmH2O static pressure, low 80s cfm


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperDeo*
> 
> This sounds legit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i don't know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i do know that it will run at full speed (MAYBE) if you use only red and black like a molex BUT since the PWM will regulate the voltage then it Might run at same speed as your pwm fan but you would not get full speed out of those two fans since they will share voltage and will never ramp up to higher speeds ?
> Other Thoughts i would not do what you are about to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because you can overload the motherboard fan header which was designed for one fan per header.
> you might consider this you plug it into your power supply via molex and the other end you plug to the CPU fan header that only sends sense not power meaning you can use as many fans as supported by the split cables
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119248
> if you look at the pictures for that cable it go's like this
> BLACK: Negative
> YELLOW: Positive
> GREEN: Tacho
> BLUE: PWM Control
> you can see in the picture that only one fan has Tacho and the two other ones do not have Tacho


I just dusted off my p8p67 pro manual and found the CPU header supports up to 1 A draw. Each TY-140 has a maximum draw of .2 A @ 100% fan speed, so I assume I'd be in the clear as far as power draw is concerned. Can anyone else corroborate this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unifiedshader*
> 
> If it's the OKGear splitter I am using the same one. Cut the yellow tacho on one of them. Leave the other one alone. You can now use the splitter but only with two identical fans, as different fans would have different tacho:voltage curves. So just make sure the fans are the same and you will be fine. My push-pull config is with two Blademaster 120mms for example, and the fan with a functional tacho (yellow) wire will tell the mobo that BOTH fans are spinning at that speed. Mobo/BIOS will then adjust speed accordingly via PWM.


The one I bought is indeed OKGear branded. I'll be using two TY-140s, so they'll be the same fan. I suppose I should remove the pin as well. Thanks!


----------



## I_Try_Pregame

Ok guys a couple of questions.
I got my EVO today and decided to OC my 2500k (obv). I got my 2500k to 4.5g at 1.3611v. I am currently running prime 95 and my max temps are:

69 76 76 71.

I am assuming my TIM isn't spread properly. I've tried the 2 lines and the box method and both seem to be wrong. Did I mess up the 2 lines (seemed pretty simple) or is the pea/rice method the way to go? Are these temps just normal?

I am using the TIM that came with the EVO.
Ambient temp is 26 C

Haf 912 with a 200 mm intake and a 120 back exhaust and a 120 top back exhaust.

Any insight would be awesome!


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I_Try_Pregame*
> 
> Ok guys a couple of questions.
> I got my EVO today and decided to OC my 2500k (obv). I got my 2500k to 4.5g at 1.3611v. I am currently running prime 95 and my max temps are:
> 69 76 76 71.
> I am assuming my TIM isn't spread properly. I've tried the 2 lines and the box method and both seem to be wrong. Did I mess up the 2 lines (seemed pretty simple) or is the pea/rice method the way to go? Are these temps just normal?
> I am using the TIM that came with the EVO.
> Ambient temp is 26 C
> Haf 912 with a 200 mm intake and a 120 back exhaust and a 120 top back exhaust.
> Any insight would be awesome!


These temperatures are perfectly fine.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I just dusted off my p8p67 pro manual and found the CPU header supports up to 1 A draw. Each TY-140 has a maximum draw of .2 A @ 100% fan speed, so I assume I'd be in the clear as far as power draw is concerned. Can anyone else corroborate this?
> The one I bought is indeed OKGear branded. I'll be using two TY-140s, so they'll be the same fan. I suppose I should remove the pin as well. Thanks!


Most boards can support 2 fans now. Not Deltas but normal fans should be fine. So many people on this thread have done it now.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Most boards can support 2 fans now. Not Deltas but normal fans should be fine. So many people on this thread have done it now.


Great, thanks! +rep (and + rep to the others who have helped me)


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Most boards can support 2 fans now. Not Deltas but normal fans should be fine. So many people on this thread have done it now.


good to know







and Deltas HAha! finger choppers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> Great, thanks! +rep (and + rep to the others who have helped me)


the 212 looks cool with 2 fans, with one it looks funny. Glad you found helpful feedback


----------



## chinesethunda

your temps look fine pregame, what case do you have? its not listed in your rig


----------



## I_Try_Pregame

Oh I forgot to add that i'll do it later.

I have a haf 912 with a 200mm megaflow for intake and 2 stock CM fans. One on the back port and one on the top back to give 2 exhaust ports for the 212.


----------



## chinesethunda

try making the top front intake and not have a back top exhaust, see how that goes


----------



## Bomster

Just fitted my EVO. My first ever rig, so new to all this.

The installation didn't go perfectly. I think I made a bit of a mess of the thermal paste.

The heat sink also doesn't feel that secure? I can slide it from left to right even with all the screws fully tightened.

My ambient is 19 deg C.

Could you look at the screenshot for me please and see what you think.

Cheers


----------



## Krusher33

The movement is normal. Please run a stress test and do another screen shot of temps.


----------



## chinesethunda

Bombster added, temps look cool


----------



## dr.evil

i want in







here is my cooler

http://i.imgur.com/TMt48.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NUVLd.jpg


----------



## Bomster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> The movement is normal. Please run a stress test and do another screen shot of temps.


Glad to hear the movement is normal.

What stress test should I do? Intel Burn, Prime 95?

How long should I leave it before screenshot?

Cheers


----------



## Krusher33

Either is fine. Run it till the temps comes to a plateau.


----------



## Bomster

I did the burn test on normal and I got higher temps (which you can see from the maximum in Hardware Monitor) than when I did the 'Very High' test.

Anyway, I'm thinking that these results are pretty good? Ambient 20 deg C.

I guess I was just hoping for better Idle temps.

What do you guys think?

On a side note, what do you guys think I could get in terms of a stable over clock with this cooler and this chip (3570K)? Would 4.1 be stable?


----------



## Krusher33

I'm not an expert in Intel but I know those are really good temps under load.

And never mind idle temps. They're almost always inaccurate for both AMD and Intel for different reasons.


----------



## Teiji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> I did the burn test on normal and I got higher temps (which you can see from the maximum in Hardware Monitor) than when I did the 'Very High' test.
> Anyway, I'm thinking that these results are pretty good? Ambient 20 deg C.
> I guess I was just hoping for better Idle temps.
> What do you guys think?
> On a side note, what do you guys think I could get in terms of a stable over clock with this cooler and this chip (3570K)? Would 4.1 be stable?


You have a really low gflops, which is in indication that you didn't install SP1, so Intel Burn Test can't test the new AVX instruction of Sandy/Ivy Bridge. You will have higher temps if IBT tests the AVX instruction.


----------



## adridu59

How do you think Ultra Kazes 1000 P/P would perform on the 212 Evo ?

Just curious...


----------



## Bomster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> You have a really low gflops, which is in indication that you didn't install SP1, so Intel Burn Test can't test the new AVX instruction of Sandy/Ivy Bridge. You will have higher temps if IBT tests the AVX instruction.


Right, I'm still fairly new to all this so I'm a bit clueless about what you mean.

"Didn't install SP1?" Do you mean Win 7 SP1? If so I have 'Version 6.1 (Build 7601: Service Pack 1)'.


----------



## Teiji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> Right, I'm still fairly new to all this so I'm a bit clueless about what you mean.
> "Didn't install SP1?" Do you mean Win 7 SP1? If so I have 'Version 6.1 (Build 7601: Service Pack 1)'.


Yes, I meant Windows 7 SP1. Hmmm, that's weird. You should have gotten gflops in the 90s, if not 100s.


----------



## Infinite Jest

I installed the two TY-140s and all seems to be well. I haven't taken temperatures or set a voltage curve yet but they seem very quiet. However, these fans are massive! I had to raise them up a bit to clear the heat sinks on my mobo and remove the top door fan in my case to fit them. I'll post again with temps and noise impressions.
(Sorry for the poor quality pics, these were taken under a desk in a somewhat dark room with a phone.)

















After installing the AXP II cooler and these fans, the HDD is now the loudest source of noise in my PC.


----------



## Bomster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Yes, I meant Windows 7 SP1. Hmmm, that's weird. You should have gotten gflops in the 90s, if not 100s.


Hmm, that's a bit worrying then :S.


----------



## ohhgourami

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I installed the two TY-140s and all seems to be well. I haven't taken temperatures or set a voltage curve yet but they seem very quiet. However, these fans are massive! I had to raise them up a bit to clear the heat sinks on my mobo and remove the top door fan in my case to fit them. I'll post again with temps and noise impressions.
> (sorry for the poor quality pics, these were taken under a desk in a somewhat dark room)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would remove all your PCI slot covers as it helps to get the hot air from your GPU to flow right out. The Accelero just blows hot air all over your case and doesn't leave out the back end of the GPU.

You might even want to cut out the rear mesh and not use a rear fan. Temps should drop and so should noise.


----------



## airdeano

as said above, the pci slot covers and slot bars are not allowing the air to get away
from the heat generator GPU. so the air travels up into the CPU cooler.
the other is you must remove the rear fan and mesh grill from the rear panel. the
ty140 is being restricted in ejecting air by those culprits.
a 5.25" bay fan can make an air-sheer to direct air to CPU cooler and divide the hot
air off the GPU

airdeano


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dr.evil*
> 
> i want in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is my cooler
> http://i.imgur.com/TMt48.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/NUVLd.jpg


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Infinite Jest*
> 
> I installed the two TY-140s and all seems to be well. I haven't taken temperatures or set a voltage curve yet but they seem very quiet. However, these fans are massive! I had to raise them up a bit to clear the heat sinks on my mobo and remove the top door fan in my case to fit them. I'll post again with temps and noise impressions.
> (Sorry for the poor quality pics, these were taken under a desk in a somewhat dark room with a phone.)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After installing the AXP II cooler and these fans, the HDD is now the loudest source of noise in my PC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/quote
> 
> added both]


----------



## Bomster

Liking the EVO so far, the thing seems silent and under load cools so much better than stock cooler. (No difference at idle really)

One thing I am noticing is huge differences between cores. Regularly see a 10°C+ difference between the highest and lowest.

I just had Core 2 at 24 and Core 3 at 41? Core 2 is always 28 or less. Core 3 is always 37 or more. Doesn't seem good really.

Is this a bad chip or is it because I poorly applied the thermal paste?

I'm thinking about reapplying the paste because I did make a hash of it, instead of two strips of paste I may just do the single 'grain of rice' in the middle, will this still be ok?

Cheers


----------



## HelenKeller

Absolutely LOVE this cooler, keeps temps under 35 at idle and nice and cool under heavy load if you're going with an air cooler this is the absolute best deal around.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> Liking the EVO so far, the thing seems silent and under load cools so much better than stock cooler. (No difference at idle really)
> One thing I am noticing is huge differences between cores. Regularly see a 10°C+ difference between the highest and lowest.
> I just had Core 2 at 24 and Core 3 at 41? Core 2 is always 28 or less. Core 3 is always 37 or more. Doesn't seem good really.
> Is this a bad chip or is it because I poorly applied the thermal paste?
> I'm thinking about reapplying the paste because I did make a hash of it, instead of two strips of paste I may just do the single 'grain of rice' in the middle, will this still be ok?
> Cheers


I think it's the TIM not covering the entire CPU or or the cooler is loose. Should be lines between each of the pipes. Grain method doesn't spread over the entire chip because of the crevices on the cooler.


----------



## InsightSoul

Those TY-140s looks like overkill for this cooler. =D.


----------



## nubbinator

I had a pair on my Hyper 212 Plus and they were awesome. Nice and quiet and my chipset and CPU cooler than the stock fans.


----------



## ManiaKsLV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HelenKeller*
> 
> 
> Absolutely LOVE this cooler, keeps temps under 35 at idle and nice and cool under heavy load if you're going with an air cooler this is the absolute best deal around.


yes i love it too!


----------



## Unlimate

This cooler is very sexy in my country temperature is 35-40 outside and it keeps temps under load at 60-65 just amazing


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlimate*
> 
> This cooler is very sexy in my country temperature is 35-40 outside and it keeps temps under load at 60-65 just amazing


Is that an X5 Raynor Tower G1 case??


----------



## Unlimate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Is that an X5 Raynor Tower G1 case??


yes


----------



## Unlimate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlimate*
> 
> yes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because of this stupid ASUS motherboard i cant place my second top 120 fan


----------



## PCSarge

i haz one....no pics till tonight though...

push/pull R4s on an i5 2500k and 4.8ghz stable







50-55C load temps folding.


----------



## chinesethunda

added you 2


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlimate*




Thought I'd add a picture of mine too. Same problem though, not able to install second top fan. It's actually due to the case design problem though, not the motherboard. If they had made it ever so slightly taller then it would be so much better.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I think it's the TIM not covering the entire CPU or or the cooler is loose. Should be lines between each of the pipes. Grain method doesn't spread over the entire chip because of the crevices on the cooler.


The Evo model's base isn't like the Plus model's. There are no crevices to fill in.











Plus:


----------



## Unlimate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> 
> Thought I'd add a picture of mine too. Same problem though, not able to install second top fan. It's actually due to the case design problem though, not the motherboard. If they had made it ever so slightly taller then it would be so much better.


yes of course its case problem but my old motherboard gigabyte ep45-ds3l with hyper 212 was fitting excellently with 2 top 120 mm fans


----------



## Krusher33

ooooh... hmm







I would take a blade and see if the base is flat. It didn't look uneven or anything? Heck, the CPU itself might have uneveness about it. I just feel like the temps should only be a couple of degrees from each other when all of them are at load.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> The Evo model's base isn't like the Plus model's. There are no crevices to fill in.


Not exactly true. Take a look at this picture from the Anandtech forums.



The Evo is better than the Plus when it comes to gaps on the base, but the fact that it's four flattened pipes side by side still means that the base will not be perfectly flat and that there will be gaps between them. The Plus just made it more evident because it had a massive divider between the pipes.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unlimate*
> 
> yes of course its case problem but my old motherboard gigabyte ep45-ds3l with hyper 212 was fitting excellently with 2 top 120 mm fans


Well in my case it's because the case is just a wee bit too short in height and my sleeved 8-pin CPU power connector isn't helping because I cannot flatten it, it just stays round because it's sleeved. If the cable can be flattened I can fit a fan there no problem.


----------



## raw0ats

So when I am applying thermal paste to this thing, I should be filling in the gaps with a really thin light coat of TIM with a credit card spreading it in all directions and then applying a line of TIM on my 3570k? I want to get this right the first time so I don't have to re-do it.


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raw0ats*
> 
> So when I am applying thermal paste to this thing, I should be filling in the gaps with a really thin light coat of TIM with a credit card spreading it in all directions and then applying a line of TIM on my 3570k? I want to get this right the first time so I don't have to re-do it.


look at the last 2 photos on this page http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5
try and do it like that


----------



## shizdan

Without going through 415 pages, what is the best way to apply TIM to the Evo considering it has 4 pipes.


----------



## BulletSponge

I installed the Evo in my first ever build a month ago using the spread method. I was actually worried that it may have been a bad choice but my idle temps are between 33 and 37 degrees so I think it turned out okay. This is on the 3570k.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

OHH YESS IM NEW TO THIS site







im currently awaiting on my mid gaming rig n i just bought the hyper 212plus FTW! im looking forward to soon join this club once i get my rig up n running







. out of boredom awating for my parts to come i made the heat sink in MINECRAFT LOL


----------



## ironsurvivor

Got one for a build for somebody else. 2 things. It is an awesome cooler i will give it that, but man it was a pain in the ass getting that thing installed.


----------



## ironsurvivor

And all i did was put a line of as5 down the 3570k and i get 27 C idle. That is stock clocks btw.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

but have any of u guys tried the cm thermal paste what comes in the box i cant get artic silver where im at all of those computer stores only sells generic white and grey ones but im looking to order ARTIC silver 5 or the mx 2.


----------



## chinesethunda

get the mx2, it works well enough


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

THANKS







ill try to hunt-down some of that thermal compound hey how do u join this club when i get my build i wanna start to post picts with the cooler on the asus saber tooth 990fx i got a haf 932 and will be posting my white and black paint job once im finished







in the haf 932 club


----------



## chinesethunda

you post your picture and just let me know and il add you


----------



## shizdan

Well I used the dot method and apparently its not good with HDT coolers. Any help?


----------



## AMD4ME

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shizdan*
> 
> Well I used the dot method and apparently its not good with HDT coolers. Any help?


The best method for applying TIM on a HSF be it HDT or not is to use the thinnest film of TIM across the entire contact surface. We're talking .003" or less TIM which is difficult for many people to apply properly. This is why the uncooked grain of rice or pea methods were developed because most people use about ten times or more the amount of TIM they should use. *More TIM is NOT good as TIM is a thermal insulator.*

TIM is only intended to fill the micro scratches or low spots in the metal surfaces. TIM is an insulator compared to metal-to-metal contact. You want 100% metal-to-metal contact but this is not possible so the least amount of TIM should be used ONLY to fill the minute scratches or low spots. More TIM is BAD for thermal conduction and CPU cooling.


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shizdan*
> 
> Well I used the dot method and apparently its not good with HDT coolers. Any help?


look at last 2 photos in this link http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> you post your picture and just let me know and il add you


ok man thanks no problem once ive got every thing up and running







picts will be posted . YOU guys are amazing people on this site














OCN FTW!!!


----------



## Alastair

Wow that's an interesting thought. I always thought more was better... Man I love this sight. Learn new things all the time . Just re did my GPU's TIM as temps were in the 90's. Pea method and now I get 60's. And my Hyper 212 EVO keeps my athlon quad below 50C and that's at 1.6V!


----------



## raw0ats

I just recently pieced together my computer and when I first put the thermal paste on the heatsink i attempted spreading an amount across the whole surface of the heatsink. I felt that it was on too thick so I took all of it off and just put two lines of thermal paste equidistant from each other in the middle of the heatsink about half the size of the cpu as illustrated on the last two pictures that everyone keeps linking. Don't have a copy of windows yet but when I did a test boot everything was working fine, hopefully when I get everything fully running the temps should be decent so I don't have to redo the thermal paste for a third time.


----------



## Stinger5150

I just installed this bad boy a few days ago,dang it's big but it cools very good...............


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stinger5150*
> 
> I just installed this bad boy a few days ago,dang it's big but it cools very good...............


It is not big a tall. It isn't. Haven't you seen the Scythe Susanoo??


----------



## wongwarren

Remove.


----------



## Lordred

Can I join? I use the Hyper 212+ Evo to cool my cellphone for long duration Tethering.


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stinger5150*
> 
> I just installed this bad boy a few days ago,dang it's big but it cools very good...............


my Apollo looks Better









just kidding the 212 is tall and looks funny without the fan kinda scrawny
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred*
> 
> Can I join? I use the Hyper 212+ Evo to cool my cellphone for long duration Tethering.


BWUAHAha!!! you funny


----------



## Bonkers

Sig Rig.


----------



## Stinger5150

Quote:


> my Apollo looks Better


Ya you got the custom look going on there..............................








Quote:


> It is not big a tall. It isn't. Haven't you seen the Scythe Susanoo


Nope havent seen that one,i cant imagine it being bigger...............................


----------



## chinesethunda

added stinger, lordred and bonkers


----------



## StarvinMarvin

I need to snap some better photos, but here is mine. Just can't beat it for the $$


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## SSinner62

I have a question about the mounting. i have an evo installed on an asrock z77 extreme 4. I have the outer 4 screws cranked down but i dont know how tight to screw the thumb screw in the middle? Im running an ivy3570 at 4.5 ghz . it idles at between 37 and 38 c. is this good? the cooler isnt as tight as i thought it should be, it can move a little bit if i bump it. any thoughts would be appreciated. i was afraid to crank thumb screw and crack something.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSinner62*
> 
> I have a question about the mounting. i have an evo installed on an asrock z77 extreme 4. I have the outer 4 screws cranked down but i dont know how tight to screw the thumb screw in the middle? Im running an ivy3570 at 4.5 ghz . it idles at between 37 and 38 c. is this good? the cooler isnt as tight as i thought it should be, it can move a little bit if i bump it. any thoughts would be appreciated. i was afraid to crank thumb screw and crack something.


That is not a thumb screw, you don't have to tighten it.


----------



## PCSarge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> That is not a thumb screw, you don't have to tighten it.


yeah its not...the cooler is always just barely loose like that


----------



## Krusher33

212+ is on sale at Newegg today for $20 after $10 mir.


----------



## Nickc84

Can anyone tell me if theirs any dangers in mounting it the other way? No matter what I did I couldn't line up the holes right without forcing it way to hard but it mounted the opposite way just fine???? My FX-6100 is @ 4.3ghz with temps 29-30 idle and 50's at load.


----------



## chinesethunda

do you have the right mounting kit? how are you trying to mount it?


----------



## Teh Bottleneck

I'm getting a Hyper 212 EVO soon,think I'll be joining the club then,if everything turns out fine...

It's a shame to have a 2600K,and keep it at stock settings.Would invest in a stronger cooling solution to push for 5.0Ghz,but since I'm on a budget this time,will have to settle with EVO,which packs a huge bang for buck









I'm sure it will do fine for 4.5-4.7Ghz...


----------



## Nickc84

Yeah, this will draw a few laughs







. I panicked when I realized it wasn't going to mount the other way and never even realized it was upside down. Surprising its really cool and haven't had any issues with it but I am planning on doing it over at some point. it Idles @ 4.3ghz at 29c to 50's on stress tests. (FX-6100)



I was a little disappointed BTW. It came with scratches on the heat sink. Possibly a return


----------



## chinesethunda

added


----------



## Aniket

Hello all.
My coolermaster blade master broke and now I'm using CM R4 on my 212+,will it give worse cooling?
Will it be worth changing my fans to CM Xtra Flow? These are quite cheap in India,saw some Bitfenix fans but they are quite overpriced here.


----------



## CM MR HAF

If anyone has any suggestions for the new Hyper 212 for Cooler Master, send me a PM. We are working on a few new 212+, some with better performance, and some that are even more affordable.


----------



## Bomster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions for the new Hyper 212 for Cooler Master, send me a PM. We are working on a few new 212+, some with better performance, and some that are even more affordable.


I'm not sure if this would work, but it would be cool if you pre-applied the TIM onto the bottom of the cooler (like the Intel retail coolers) as it makes the whole fitting process much easier.

Just my $0.02.

Great that you're involved with the community though







.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> I'm not sure if this would work, but it would be cool if you pre-applied the TIM onto the bottom of the cooler (like the Intel retail coolers) as it makes the whole fitting process much easier.
> Just my $0.02.
> Great that you're involved with the community though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


PM him.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> I'm not sure if this would work, but it would be cool if you pre-applied the TIM onto the bottom of the cooler (like the Intel retail coolers) as it makes the whole fitting process much easier.


Pre-applied TIM: I don't like this.


----------



## Krusher33

Me either...

but a common issue we see in this thread is "how much TIM" or "how to apply it".


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM MR HAF*
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions for the new Hyper 212 for Cooler Master, send me a PM. We are working on a few new 212+, some with better performance, and some that are even more affordable.


How about a *black* 212+ and Evo.


----------



## Krusher33

I pm'd an idea bout the heatpipes.


----------



## olliiee

Hey just installed my first aftermarket HSF on my 2500K 212 EVO and in a 24-27 degree Celsius room my temps are as follows whilst browsing the net;

core 1: 23
core 2: 26
core 3: 37
core 4: 19
package: 36

using CPUID

Good, bad? Thoughts?


----------



## Teiji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olliiee*
> 
> Hey just installed my first aftermarket HSF on my 2500K 212 EVO and in a 24-27 degree Celsius room my temps are as follows whilst browsing the net;
> core 1: 23
> core 2: 26
> core 3: 37
> core 4: 19
> package: 36
> using CPUID
> Good, bad? Thoughts?


Something is not right. Your temps can't be lower than ambient (laws of physic). Also, 37 and 19 seems like a pretty big gap (almost 20 degrees!).


----------



## airdeano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olliiee*
> 
> Hey just installed my first aftermarket HSF on my 2500K 212 EVO and in a 24-27 degree Celsius room my temps are as follows whilst browsing the net;
> core 1: 23
> core 2: 26
> core 3: 37
> core 4: 19
> package: 36
> using CPUID
> Good, bad? Thoughts?


congrats on the install.
looks like you need to re-address your TIM application. first your core temps shouldnt be cooler
than ambient, almost never is unless you are using refrigeration or sub-zero cooling. second
the variations are a tell-tale to thermal issues. as yours are all over the place. if you have some
TIM, remove the HSF assembly and review the pattern on the CPU and HSF. is it splotchy?
does it cover the CPU spreader completely? is it oozing over the sides? from your levels id say
not enough. you can spread the compound across the spreader for a uniform coat.
you might even look into a stress program (LinX, Intel Burn Test, Prime95) to see how your
system reacts with a heavy load to determine more or less equipment maybe necessary.. again congrats on the install.

airdeano


----------



## olliiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airdeano*
> 
> congrats on the install.
> looks like you need to re-address your TIM application. first your core temps shouldnt be cooler
> than ambient, almost never is unless you are using refrigeration or sub-zero cooling. second
> the variations are a tell-tale to thermal issues. as yours are all over the place. if you have some
> TIM, remove the HSF assembly and review the pattern on the CPU and HSF. is it splotchy?
> does it cover the CPU spreader completely? is it oozing over the sides? from your levels id say
> not enough. you can spread the compound across the spreader for a uniform coat.
> you might even look into a stress program (LinX, Intel Burn Test, Prime95) to see how your
> system reacts with a heavy load to determine more or less equipment maybe necessary.. again congrats on the install.
> airdeano


I spread it using a small plastic bag so it was in a very thin film over the cpu and ensured there were no visibly thicker or thinner areas. I used maybe half a pea sized blob of TIM to do this. Perhaps the only thing I wasn't sure about was how tight I screwed it down and they were sprung screws so I figured as long it didnt move and I'd done them all a decent amount then it would be okay (didnt want to overdo it).

I'll try using the bios and a different program to see whats up and it nothing is different I'll reapply.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olliiee*
> 
> I spread it using a small plastic bag so it was in a very thin film over the cpu and ensured there were no visibly thicker or thinner areas.


Spreading with a plastic bag... this must be the problem.


----------



## olliiee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Spreading with a plastic bag... this must be the problem.







Thats how I did it.


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olliiee*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats how I did it.


seems like a good video, try this method instead if you are going to redo it
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=38&limit=1&limitstart=5
just look at the last 2 pictures, this method you don't spread just apply thermal paste and let the cooler spread it

this is what you will see on that link with tons of info



and as to the Rep of Cooler Master to make a better Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus just make a flat surface for easy thermal paste installation.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by CM MR HAF
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions for the new Hyper 212 for Cooler Master, send me a PM. We are working on a few new 212+, some with better performance, and some that are even more affordable.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I do have some ideas. Firstly you could try giving the base of the cooler a mirror finish this will further improve the contact between CPU and cooler. You could also try making it a bit shorter as I struggle to close the side panel of my case because my 200mm side panel fan catches on the heatpipes. Maybe shorten it by about 5mm so it isn't so tall. And these ideas may make it a bit more expensive but you could give the heatpipes nickel plating and you could try making the fins out of copper. But we should be careful because we love the Hyper 212 because of its great price and performance. We don't want these ideas to make the cooler too expensive.
Click to expand...


----------



## Alastair

Please forgive my rather messed up post up there but I did send this from my phone and it kind of messed it up a bit. But you get the idea of what I was trying to say!


----------



## Teiji

I don't think he regularly checks this post that's why he asked us to send him a PM if we have any suggestion. So you should do that.


----------



## Krusher33

Don't go by idle temps.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperDeo*
> 
> and as to the Rep of Cooler Master to make a better Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus just make a flat surface for easy thermal paste installation.


They already did. It's called the 212 Evo.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> They already did. It's called the 212 Evo.


Honestly it looks like a lot of people got stuck on the Plus...


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> They already did. It's called the 212 Evo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Honestly it looks like a lot of people got stuck on the Plus...


its not flat enough still makes it hard for thermal paste installation, on the 212 plus i used the whole thermal bottle trying to get it right but i suck

not flat enough

super flat and that's what i'm talking about

personally i had a hard time installing thermal paste on the 212 plus

and as to the rep of cooler master maybe just make it look like a 350 engine by Chevy ill buy 5 of them for my computers like this

it has purple just like cooler master uses

make it like this

its beautiful at $50 maybe make the price lower and it has a super flat surface for thermal paste
i would buy it but it does not have push pull so maybe put a water cooled radiator in front of it and the fans on the sides of it towards the bottom i don't know do something smart







ill buy it









and cooler master make car cases for my computer like this car

instead of the motor sticking out that can be the heat sink sticking out







or use a Lamborghini car model like Asus does with there laptops









and that is all, i would become Cooler master's number 1 fan/customer


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperDeo*
> 
> 
> super flat and that's what i'm talking about


With this you loose the Heatpipe Direct Contact thus lowering performance. You can always sand the 212.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

hey i was thinking of wet sanding the base of my HYPER 212+ WITH 1000GRIT is it worth a shot?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> With this you loose the Heatpipe Direct Contact thus lowering performance. You can always sand the 212.


HDT is better than a flat base...... Until you reach a certain amount of heat load. Then flat base takes over.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> hey i was thinking of wet sanding the base of my HYPER 212+ WITH 1000GRIT is it worth a shot?


You do not want to sand a HDT cooler. It will only make the already uneven base more uneven.


----------



## chinesethunda

don't sand it, it's good just how it is imo, never had a problem with it before


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

owww ok because i took a razor blade and did the even test and i did not see any sinks nor bumps is perfectly level


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> You do not want to sand a HDT cooler. It will only make the already uneven base more uneven.


Not to mention that it's an easy way to ruin the heatsink since you can easily sand through the heatpipes.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nubbinator*
> 
> Not to mention that it's an easy way to ruin the heatsink since you can easily sand through the heatpipes.


Good point.


----------



## DizzlePro

ADD ME


----------



## chinesethunda

added, but why those fans?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> added, but why those fans?


I personally think it looks pretty nice in there.


----------



## chinesethunda

oh okay, make the top fan thats in front of the hyper 212+ an intake fan, should help your temps a bit, and do a test to see if your temps would be better with or without the back rear fan


----------



## DizzlePro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> added, but why those fans?


What's wrong with those fans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> oh okay, make the top fan thats in front of the hyper 212+ an intake fan, should help your temps a bit, and do a test to see if your temps would be better with or without the back rear fan


I will try but atm my temps are quite good for my I5 2500k @4.5GHZ.
My idle temps are between 27 - 32 degrees and on full load it never passes 58 degrees
but i may get better thermal paste to see if my temps change ( Currently using the stock cm paste which came with my evo )


----------



## YangerD

The Hyper 212+ is just amazing, it does better than my H60. I think I might actually go back to this and get rid of my H60.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Hey guys, CM Hyper 212+ owner here, looking to upgrade the stock fan and was hoping for some good high pressure fan recommendations. Not sure if I should do push/pull, as the rear exhaust fan is fairly close to the heatsink.

Scythe Gentle Typhoons seem to be popular, but was wondering if there are any other options out there?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Hey guys, CM Hyper 212+ owner here, looking to upgrade the stock fan and was hoping for some good high pressure fan recommendations. Not sure if I should do push/pull, as the rear exhaust fan is fairly close to the heatsink.
> Scythe Gentle Typhoons seem to be popular, but was wondering if there are any other options out there?


The stock fan works extremely well with this particular heat sink and I don't recommend you spend the money to change it. Cooler Master CLAIMS it has a static pressure of 3.9 mmH2O. Push pull won't do you much good either, 2 C drop at the very most. Take off the rear fan and cut out the rear fan grill. This will give you the best performance.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> Hey guys, CM Hyper 212+ owner here, looking to upgrade the stock fan and was hoping for some good high pressure fan recommendations. Not sure if I should do push/pull, as the rear exhaust fan is fairly close to the heatsink.
> 
> Scythe Gentle Typhoons seem to be popular, but was wondering if there are any other options out there?


Yes the Xtra Flow fan that comes with the EVO is a really good fan. I hope to get a second to go with my push pull combination.


----------



## Transmaniacon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The stock fan works extremely well with this particular heat sink and I don't recommend you spend the money to change it. Cooler Master CLAIMS it has a static pressure of 3.9 mmH2O. Push pull won't do you much good either, 2 C drop at the very most. Take off the rear fan and cut out the rear fan grill. This will give you the best performance.


The stock fan on the EVO or the stock fan on the plus? I have the plus and it looks different then the one that comes with the EVO.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> The stock fan on the EVO or the stock fan on the plus? I have the plus and it looks different then the one that comes with the EVO.


On the Plus its a Blademaster, basically a little more powerful and a little more noisy.


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> The stock fan on the EVO or the stock fan on the plus? I have the plus and it looks different then the one that comes with the EVO.


hes was talking about the stock fan from the 212 Plus not the Evo

this fan is the 212 plus stock fan

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069&Tpk=cooler%20master%20blade%20master%20120mm

this fan is the evo stock fan

http://www.cmstore-usa.com/hyper-212-evo-120mm-fan-oem-package/

if you plan on using another fan find one with a high static pressure like the new SP120 Corsair fans

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181026
at 2350 RPM it has a SP of 3.1mm/H2O so i find it impossible for the blade master to have 3.9mm/H2O at 2000 RPM ???
except the corsair fans are not pwm anyways

i'm not sure if the round housing fans will fit the 212 mounting brackets i can check later if you would like
edit i added a link
edit 120mm fans are all made with the same screw hole positioning unless stated otherwise by the fan
edit the blade master does have 3.90 mmH20 static pressure


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Transmaniacon*
> 
> The stock fan on the EVO or the stock fan on the plus? I have the plus and it looks different then the one that comes with the EVO.
> 
> 
> 
> On the Plus its a Blademaster, basically a little more powerful and a little more noisy.
Click to expand...

How can the blademaster be a better fan when the Xtra flow has higher CFM? Out of curiosity when it comes to fans and HSF's is it better to have higher CFM or static pressure?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> How can the blademaster be a better fan when the Xtra flow has higher CFM? Out of curiosity when it comes to fans and HSF's is it better to have higher CFM or static pressure?


Specs aren't accurate especially talking about Cooler Master. Static pressure is what you need for heatsinks.


----------



## RobertJones

IMHO, Blade Master is a lot better & more efficient than Xtra Flo (1600RPM) model, I even replaced mine with Blade Masters


----------



## chinesethunda

its already been tested and proven that the blademaster has better cooling capabilities than the xtraflow


----------



## Alastair

Thanks... Time to get some blademasters!


----------



## adridu59

But the Blademasters are more noisy.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> But the Blademasters are more noisy.


That is why you use a push/pull setup. More airflow with less rpm.


----------



## Alastair

Got a good shot of my EVO at full tilt during a Cinebench run.


----------



## Alastair

It looks to me like the Blademaster and Xtra Flow fans have very similar blade designs so why the difference in specs?


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> It looks to me like the Blademaster and Xtra Flow fans have very similar blade designs so why the difference in specs?


its all about static pressure the xtra flow fan has 3.30 mmH20 and the blade master has 3.90 mmH2O
static pressure is how good the fans can push air through grills and radiators and heat sinks
AF (high air flow) fans are fans for just side panels or front intake fans where they don't have to do much work to get the air in

don't buy a SP fan and think it will push a lot more air vs a AF fan you will be disappointed but all fans have static pressure and air flow some are just enhanced in that area


----------



## jay2nice000

Just bought this cooler and holy crap what a bargin have it paired with 955 be 125w with stock cooler. on prime i would see 70c on stock heatsink at 4.1. now with the evo plus never goes higher that 45c at 4.1 at 1.5v. thats a 25c difference and i saved 80 bucks by not going with the h100 what a deal!!!!


----------



## InVeNtOr

Hey guys, i need some info/ advice. I just built a rig. Its an ASrock Z55, i5 3570k, and of course the 212. My idle temp is 36-37. MoBo temp is 30. I should have came here first and did some reading.....
I bought some Artic Silver Matrix because i thought what was supplied wasn't good enough (not fact, im just a noob...). I lapped my personal rig (cooler only) and didnt lap anything on this current set up.
I did apply it similar to the OP post guide. I did a few tests and quicky saw the grain of rice method does not work. I applied a very thin coating to both cpu and cooler.
So, should i go back and lap the cooler and use the supplied TIM? Maybe buy another fan for push pull? Im not going.to OC too much, my goal is 4.0ghz. Or as high as i can go without increasing volts too much.
Another question, is the cooler suppose to be a tad loose? With some pressure i can turn it. My cooler (939 board) its locked in and very tight.
How do those temps compair? I only ask because my set up, idle is 25°C all air. Thats as low as my bios lets me.


----------



## Alastair

I would just lap the processor. I wouldn't want to lap a 212 for the simple reason that you could damage the heatpipes. And yes the cooler does swivel a little bit that's nothing to worry about! Push pull makes a 2C difference roughly. That's a big difference if you trying to squeeze out every last MHz. But in your case stick with one fan because you aren't pushing high volts so it won't be worth the extra noise.


----------



## InVeNtOr

Think i should use the supplied TIM over the Arctic silver? I guess it couldn't hurt to try. Well if u don't suggest lapping the 212, then I'll leave that mod alone. I don't want to touch the cpu because its not mine and i don't want to void the warranty.


----------



## Alastair

I'm no expert on TIM's. I just use what I get and buy any kind that I can get hold of when I need it. In my case that's Akasa AK-455 right now.


----------



## InVeNtOr

Bad news...so far over clocking isn't going well. Temps r too high. @4.0ghz it gets to 85C in 2.5 min and @4.4ghz in about 30 sec. I will redo the thermal paste and run OCCT at stock settings.....


----------



## Alastair

Yes. Check also that you got that cooler on properly. Screw done those screws as tight as possible. When you redo your TIM, put your TIM on the heatpipes and use a card or something to spread it into the gaps. Out of curiosity do you have an EVO or a +?


----------



## Hackcremo

guys...
i wanna ask about my temp with hyper 212+..right now it hover around 78-80'c on 4 core..
1.38vcore at 4.6ghz.. ambient around 30'c..
are my temp normal..??


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hackcremo*
> 
> guys...
> i wanna ask about my temp with hyper 212+..right now it hover around 78-80'c on 4 core..
> 1.38vcore at 4.6ghz.. ambient around 30'c..
> are my temp normal..??


Stree test or normal load??


----------



## Hackcremo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Stree test or normal load??


stress test 24/7..


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hackcremo*
> 
> stress test 24/7..


Then that's fine.


----------



## Hackcremo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Then that's fine.


Teasing..


----------



## chinesethunda

Hackcremo added, also your temps are fine


----------



## InVeNtOr

i have a Hyper 212 Evo. that was the one suggested. i really hope i got the right one.


----------



## InVeNtOr

4.0ghz.png 200k .png file


4.0ghzshow.png 208k .png file


4.4ghz.png 199k .png file


4.4ghzshow.png 208k .png file


asrock 4.0ghz.png 368k .png file


asrock 4.4ghz.png 368k .png file


alright, so i almost have 3 treads that are getting close to the same topic. so i'm going to post the info here only.
i still haven't found out or figured out why windows still says my cpu is 3.4ghz. so there is 2 pics that are the same (sort of) the ones lables "...show" are there because OCCT after the test reverts back and shows 1600mhz instead of what i set the cpu at. so i have 1 shot of OCCT finishing, 1 a minute in to show what cpu speed it is testing, and 1 shot of the asrock utility screen showing the same cpu speed. i know there are a lot of fakers out there, turst me, i'm not one.

here's the low down....
i followed the guide EXACTLY! i simply put the same numbers in and went with it. the setting for 4.0 and 4.4 are the exact same (except of course the cpu multiplier). now, i had cooling issues and that's why i got fails at 4.0ghz. so.....i removed the cooler, cleaned with iso. alcohol, and used the thermal paste that cooler master supplied (i also re did my 939 board, hasn't been done since the first day i built it). thats about it. i may end up putting 1 more fan in it, but i don't have one i like. i only have 1 stock corsair one that came with it. i may check the 1 computer store here and see what they got. of course i may order one. any suggestions for a 140mm fan or 120mm for a side mount to blow air in? has to be some what quiet. this build is almost silent, i am super happy with this corsair 550D.

tried 4.5ghz and 4.6ghz. again didn't change anything on 4.6, but i got a blue screen real quick....lol. on 4.5 i tried 1 thing. on the same settings i got an error after 6 minutes. the 1 thing i did was up the turbo v to .008. i then got a fail at 10 minutes. i'm pretty much done for tonight with OCing. i may try later. i'd like to know what you guys suggest for a fan first. i do like the Xigmatek fans though. is there a such thing as a "skinny" fan? i almost have enough room between the 212 and the side. i would love to lap, don't want to mess with the chip though. any other suggestions? i think going push pull would be a waste, maybe, my outake fan is about an inch from the 212. maybe it would be a super pull with a push???? lol!
any suggestions on cooling tricks?
thanks again to all the experts out there! btw, does anyone want the stock cooler or is there some place to donate them?


----------



## chinesethunda

don't do push pull with a exhaust fan so close to the cooler. i would suggest you use a nibbler and cut out your rear grill and just not have an exhaust fan and then do push pull on your cooler. how does the rest of your case look? maybe not enough air flow.

you don't need to lap, maybe you just need more volts to get a stable oc


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> 4.0ghz.png 200k .png file


I don't know much about OCCT, but I would assume it's just showing you the stock speed of your CPU for info purposes. After running burn tests your CPU speed will drop back to 1600, which is a good thing, to conserve energy, so that's normal.

Here's one way to test things: download realtemps and then run different programs and you will see your CPU speed, via realtemp, fluctuate from 1600 upto your OC speed. Run a program that's taxes the CPU and when you view realtemps you will see the CPU speed max out. CPU fluctuatio from 1600mhz to your OC speed is normal.

Realtemp3.70)


----------



## Alastair

Guys will I be able to do a 1GHz overclock on a Phenom 2 965 with 212 EVO?


----------



## InVeNtOr

I think i came to a reasonable decision. I'm assuming the best OC i could do (with air cooling and my hardware) is maybe 4.7. Right now on stock volts i can get 4.4 rock stable. That's 100mhz improvement for free. I highly doubt my dads appraisal program will benefit from another 300mhz. It would also take perfect settings and increased volts. I think (for me) its best to lower volts and stay at 4.4.
However i do need suggestions. I'm thinking of changing out my front 120mm fans. I feel they r not working that well. I have a very thick front case door so i need a fan that can over come that restricted air flow. I like Xigmatek (i have 4ea 140mm in there now) but i haven't taken the time like most of u guys have.
I think I'm good with noise, i cant hear the case now. I have a head scratcher, i ran OCCT twice at 4.4ghz. 1 with the side panel on and then off. With the panel on, i got lower temps and lower volts used. That makes no sense to me. (Its not the entire side, just the area where 2 140mm fans can go).


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> I think i came to a reasonable decision. I'm assuming the best OC i could do (with air cooling and my hardware) is maybe 4.7. Right now on stock volts i can get 4.4 rock stable. That's 100mhz improvement for free. I highly doubt my dads appraisal program will benefit from another 300mhz. It would also take perfect settings and increased volts. I think (for me) its best to lower volts and stay at 4.4.
> However i do need suggestions. I'm thinking of changing out my front 120mm fans. I feel they r not working that well. I have a very thick front case door so i need a fan that can over come that restricted air flow. I like Xigmatek (i have 4ea 140mm in there now) but i haven't taken the time like most of u guys have.
> I think I'm good with noise, i cant hear the case now. I have a head scratcher, i ran OCCT twice at 4.4ghz. 1 with the side panel on and then off. With the panel on, i got lower temps and lower volts used. That makes no sense to me. (Its not the entire side, just the area where 2 140mm fans can go).


A lotof users have trid swapping out the stock fan with some of the highest rated and appraised fans out there, two fans VS one stock fan.....The difference was all of like 1c.


----------



## InVeNtOr

Lol, so u r saying don't waist my money? Lol. I'm only asking because the front 2 corsair fans barley blow any air. I can't feel the air flow 6" away. I was thinking 2 stronger fans would at least get some type of flow back to my MoBo.


----------



## Krusher33

I think he misunderstood and thought you were talking about changing out the stock fan on the cooler.

What case is it? Did you try asking about it in the case's fan club here?


----------



## General121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> Lol, so u r saying don't waist my money? Lol. I'm only asking because the front 2 corsair fans barley blow any air. I can't feel the air flow 6" away. I was thinking 2 stronger fans would at least get some type of flow back to my MoBo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I think he misunderstood and thought you were talking about changing out the stock fan on the cooler.
> What case is it? Did you try asking about it in the case's fan club here?


Hes right. I thought you were talking about the Hyper 212+ cooler....That is this coolers fan club...


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> Lol, so u r saying don't waist my money? Lol. I'm only asking because the front 2 corsair fans barley blow any air. I can't feel the air flow 6" away. I was thinking 2 stronger fans would at least get some type of flow back to my MoBo.


I can't say what fan would be best for your situation, but I will say consider getting a fan controller that way you can get some really high flow fans that may be loud but you can control them as you please and for the situation. The fan controller was one of the best cooling system upgrade I've made.

Btw, I use these 140mm Akasa Apache fans and these 120mm Akasa Apache fan and this fan controller

Again with a fan controller, I think your fan options are limitless.

Just One Man's Opinion


----------



## InVeNtOr

oh, may bad. yeah, i would like to replace the stock case fan.


----------



## Ramsey77

I second the Lamptron FC5 V2 also. Great Controller.


----------



## Alastair

Guys I sent a PM to the CoolerMaster representative about the new Hyper 212. I suggested that they give the Hyper 212 the same honeycomb fin design as the X6 Elite. I also suggested that they give the 212 the diagonal orientation as the X6 to improve airflow in the case. Although that would be a disadvantage to people like me who mount their 212's vertically. What do you guys think? In time we will just have to call this the 212 club. Not the 212+ club. As we will be able to have fans of all the different types of 212's in one place.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

HAS ANY ONE ever used Arctic Alumina i cant get artic silver 5so i wanna know how well this works im goin to be using the hyper 212+ COOLER


----------



## chinesethunda

can you get mx2 or mx3? there's other TIM out there thats good


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

UMM SADDLY NOT i got the artic silver matrix for the while until i can get the mx 2 or 3


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

OMG I HAVE INSTALLED MY HYPER 212+ and man i gotta put some elboW into it!!! and the thermal conductivity is really good!!


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> OMG I HAVE INSTALLED MY HYPER 212+ and man i gotta put some elboW into it!!! and the thermal conductivity is really good!!


Dude what do you mean by you have to put some elbow into it?


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> OMG I HAVE INSTALLED MY HYPER 212+ and man i gotta put some elboW into it!!! and the thermal conductivity is really good!!


Dude what do you mean by you have to put some elbow into it?


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

it was kinda tuff to turn the screws down IN OTHER WORDS lol . The other day i was bored and made this in Minecraft! the hyper 212+ heat sink!


----------



## LongRod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> it was kinda tuff to turn the screws down IN OTHER WORDS lol . The other day i was bored and made this in Minecraft! the hyper 212+ heat sink!


Haha, you should put a 2500k under there, with some gray wool for thermal paste. xD


----------



## chinesethunda

that's pretty boss


----------



## Phenomanator53

I Would like to join please.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

hey im the guy who tired to create the heat sink in mine craft can i be a part of this club look proof of owner ship


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenomanator53*
> 
> I Would like to join please.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> hey im the guy who tired to create the heat sink in mine craft can i be a part of this club look proof of owner ship
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


both added


----------



## fatherof3

Hey folks,
Just curious how people clean the blades? personaly i use pipe cleaners on my golden orb 2 (my current rig as ive not upraded yet.


----------



## BlackThought

Just got my EVO,currently doing blend with P95 to see if my OC is stable.

Either this thing is a monster compared to the regular 212+ , or im a god at putting TIM.

75 seems to be highest @ 4.4GHz.

This doesnt seem right lol,i was in the mid 80s with my other cooler


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey folks,
> Just curious how people clean the blades? personaly i use pipe cleaners on my golden orb 2 (my current rig as ive not upraded yet.


Just use a can of compressed air with the provided straw.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey folks,
> Just curious how people clean the blades? personaly i use pipe cleaners on my golden orb 2 (my current rig as ive not upraded yet.


I use my air compressor, set on about 45 psi.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackThought*
> 
> Just got my EVO,currently doing blend with P95 to see if my OC is stable.
> Either this thing is a monster compared to the regular 212+ , or im a god at putting TIM.
> 75 seems to be highest @ 4.4GHz.
> This doesnt seem right lol,i was in the mid 80s with my other cooler


It's a great cooler. I hit around 70 with mine.


----------



## RobertJones

Slightly off topic, but since I'm using Hyper 212EVO, figured I should post this in here, a way to dramatically improve the cooling system on Cosmos 1000 case









I got myself one of those 4-in-3 drive modules, been meaning to mount it inside my Cosmos case. Unfortunately, it turned out that it's NOT compatible with Cosmos 1000 case, so I had to improvise & mod the drive module. After I took it apart, and removed the front ventilation grill, (the one with aluminum CM logo on it) I mounted it inside my Cosmos case, and put the the stock 5,25" covers over the fan.

I also replaced the rear fan with more powerful one, I believe it was Scythe 1300RPM, PWM model. (originally designed for Scythe CPU coolers)

Results? Pretty Impressive IMHO, temps are 7.5C(+/-) lower, even the Intel burn test couldn't heat up my Q6600 for more than 65C And that's on "Maximum" setting! Idle temp is now 39C for the Core0





With the front covers on:

With the front covers off:


----------



## edsai

Hi guys, I just got a new desktop with a core I5 3550 and the Hyper 212+. Also I traded and replaced the Hyper 212+ original Blademaster stock fan with two Xtraflo 120 mm fans.

The Xtraflo fan specifications are:

Fan Speed 600 - 2000 RPM
Fan Air Flow 24.9 - 82.9 CFM
Fan Air Pressure 0.3 - 2.7 mm H2O
Noise Level 9 - 36 dBA

I am pretty disappointed to didn't find this thread before and heard in this thread that the original Blademaster performs well, no really needing or worth the money to buy a second fan for the Hyper 212+.
Also after reading some of the previous posts the Xtraflo fan seems not that good for a cooler fan.

The Xtraflo fans seems quiet for me and my CPU temp seems very good now at 28 C, running as 600 rpm.
My GPU card is a GTX 560 and seems louder than my Xtraflo fans. I can't really hear my Xtraflo fans, the noise from my GPU card seems more noticeable.
I didn't run yet much game or any heavy CPU tests after seeing my GPU card reaching quickly more than 50 C while running a game for a few minutes.
My CPU temp still never rechead more than 35 C.

I can't tell now how the Xtraflo fan performs in temps and noise on games and stress tests.
My case is now lack of fans and I believe that I will need first to put at least one or two fans on the left side case panel to help cooling and avoid overheating the GPU card and the motherboard.

Finally, I have the following questions:

1. Is the Blademaster fan quietter or louder than Xtraflo fan?

2. Is the Xtraflo fan a fair choice for CPU coolers?

3. I need as soon as possible to purchase some fans for my case. So should I consider to replace too my Hyper 212+ Xtraflo fans with a Blademaster or another fan?
Will it really worth the trouble to unmount the cooler fans and remount it again with one or two new fans?

Thanks for any help or suggestions.


----------



## Krusher33

Do a stress test and see how the temps does then. If you're happy, I'd say leave it.


----------



## ZoomThruPoom

I clean mine with a fine long bristled scrub brush and an air compressor at about 80psi.

I cleaned it in the sink a few times with hot water and soap, was the fastest method to get it super clean, but the water spots are a joke to polish off afterwards.


----------



## ceaze one

ON SALE FOR $20/SHIPPED!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065

I'm debating on buying this or an Enermax ETS-T40... kinda like the ETS-T40 more since it looks better and has a better/easier mounting system (IMO)

If anyone has experience with both coolers please let me know


----------



## neoprimal

Hey all. I just retrofit my PC a few days ago with a new board, cpu, ram, gfx, ssd etc.
I have a Zalman CNPS9700 from my older rig but I wasn't able to install it to the new board - I wouldn't have been able to without some skulduggery so I opted to stay with the stock Intel cooler until I found something better. At this point, the board is mounted and I do not want to remove it to install a fan.

I've seen this cooler being reviewed very well and you can't really beat the price. The deal breaker for me would be mounting. Would I have to remove my board to mount this thing? I'm seeing a plate that looks like that's the case but I'm not sure. I want a fan that I can clip on like the stock cooler or the Zalman CNP5X which was my choice to go with before I saw great reviews on this cooler. Any advice would be appreciated. I'm not that interested in OCing or anything; I may go up to 4Ghz or so since people are saying it's easy and the temps remain low but right now I just want a good, ultra quiet cooler for my I5 3570K.

Thanks.


----------



## Krusher33

I've mounted it with board in the case. But it's MUCH easier if done outside the case.


----------



## llibert333

Can I cut the top the heatpipes of the coolermaster 212+?
I'm planning to put it in a Fractal Design Core 1000 and the 212+ don't fit for a few mm. Will happen something wrong if I cut the top of the headpipes?
-If someone see in the fractal design web that the 212+ don't fit, there is a web where someone mounts it http://www.anandtech.com/show/5736/fractal-design-core-1000-how-little-is-too-little/3

Thank you.


----------



## Krusher33

No. It renders the cooler useless. There's a liquid (I don't remember what it's called) that's inside the pipes.


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> No. It renders the cooler useless. There's a liquid (I don't remember what it's called) that's inside the pipes.


Probably like a anti-freeze like liquid?
In the Anandtech review for the Core 1000 case,it is stated that the 212+ will fit but the case lid wont close flat.
I went from a 212+ to a EVO,can the paste be applied directly to the CPU in a grain of rice or pea blob method?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llibert333*
> 
> Can I cut the top the heatpipes of the coolermaster 212+?
> I'm planning to put it in a Fractal Design Core 1000 and the 212+ don't fit for a few mm. Will happen something wrong if I cut the top of the headpipes?
> -If someone see in the fractal design web that the 212+ don't fit, there is a web where someone mounts it http://www.anandtech.com/show/5736/fractal-design-core-1000-how-little-is-too-little/3
> Thank you.


NEVER CUT THE HEAT PIPE OF ANY HEAT SINK.


----------



## thescreensavers

Picked one up for 20 bucks, -20C on load vs Stock Intel HSF

Here are some pics

Before










After










Dat Gap










Now its time for 3.4 Ghz hopefully


----------



## dragonsamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*
> 
> Probably like a anti-freeze like liquid?
> In the Anandtech review for the Core 1000 case,it is stated that the 212+ will fit but the case lid wont close flat.
> I went from a 212+ to a EVO,can the paste be applied directly to the CPU in a grain of rice or pea blob method?


The grain of rice method would work. I have the plus and I used applied two lines on the two inner heat pipes.


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Just use a can of compressed air with the provided straw.


Hi,
Ive tried the compressed airon its own , but it doesnt always give it a good clean, it only really blows away surface dust, i clean mine about once a month to 6 weeks - i have also used a pipe cleaner wrapped in a baby wipe, and wait till its completely dry, so new dust does not "stick" to the blades.


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llibert333*
> 
> Can I cut the top the heatpipes of the coolermaster 212+?
> I'm planning to put it in a Fractal Design Core 1000 and the 212+ don't fit for a few mm. Will happen something wrong if I cut the top of the headpipes?
> -If someone see in the fractal design web that the 212+ don't fit, there is a web where someone mounts it http://www.anandtech.com/show/5736/fractal-design-core-1000-how-little-is-too-little/3
> Thank you.


Please don't quote me on this, but perhaps you could *slightly* bend the copper 'nipples' so that they don't touch the side panel?

I do not know how much give they provide if any at all, but maybe someone who has tried it (purposely or accidentally) can chime in for us? I figure if you don't puncture the pipes it would work.

EDIT: Actually no, don't try it unless you really really want to. The walls of the pipes can't be very thick. If you for instance bend it with a pair of pliers it might just be enough pressure to rupture the pipes. I never thought I'd contradict my own statement on an online forum but ther's a first time for everything


----------



## Krusher33

Silly wabbit.


----------



## FahrenheitGTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I've mounted it with board in the case. But it's MUCH easier if done outside the case.


I CAN ATTEST TO THIS.

It is freaking hell to mount inside the case, it's like rummaging for gold. But, I would say it is a solid mounting system that allows it to be used on many platforms.


----------



## Lazlonius

Any concerns this will harm the motherboard as it looks pretty heavy? I hate to mess up My MB with a $20 heatsink. My PC is vertical if it was horizontal I would have no worries.


----------



## Infinite Jest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazlonius*
> 
> Any concerns this will harm the motherboard as it looks pretty heavy? I hate to mess up My MB with a $20 heatsink. My PC is vertical if it was horizontal I would have no worries.


As far as CPU coolers go, it isn't overly weighty (most of it is made out of aluminum). Almost everyone is this thread has a traditional upright, vertical tower.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazlonius*
> 
> Any concerns this will harm the motherboard as it looks pretty heavy? I hate to mess up My MB with a $20 heatsink. My PC is vertical if it was horizontal I would have no worries.


People should stop getting paranoid about CPU coolers damaging motherboards because of weight. Even giants like the Scythe Susanoo and Phanteks PH-TCP14 can be installed on a motherboard mounted vertically no problem.


----------



## neoprimal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FahrenheitGTI*
> 
> I CAN ATTEST TO THIS.
> It is freaking hell to mount inside the case, it's like rummaging for gold. But, I would say it is a solid mounting system that allows it to be used on many platforms.


My whole thing is that I didn't want to have to attach a back plate but I'm over that now and have been convinced that I should go ahead and do it.
Just deciding whether or not to keep this troublesome board and then I shall work on getting/mounting it.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neoprimal*
> 
> My whole thing is that I didn't want to have to attach a back plate but I'm over that now and have been convinced that I should go ahead and do it.
> Just deciding whether or not to keep this troublesome board and then I shall work on getting/mounting it.


You MUST install the heatsink with the backplate installed if there is one.


----------



## Krusher33

Seriously... they would have stopped selling these loooong ago if there was a problem with weight.


----------



## TheYonderGod

Hey guys, I just got some high speed Yate Loons and I was curious how they would perform compared to the stock Blademaster and in push/pull. Unfortunately I don't have another Blademaster to test them in push/pull. My tests aren't very scientific, I just ran prime95 for about 1.5-2 hours each and got the max temp, the 'average' isn't really an average, I just looked at the temps every couple minutes and it's the temperature I saw the most often. The results were kinda interesting. Both single fans were pretty much exactly the same, 2 yate loons in push/pull were a lot better though, which I thought was interesting considering I've always heard adding another fan would give you at most about 2 degrees better temps. Also the push/pull test was a bit longer than the other 2, and the temperature fluctuated(mostly 42-44C) a lot more, whereas the single fans were pretty much constantly at 49C. I think I'm going to leave the Yates Loons on in push/pull.

1 Stock Blademaster
Max temp - 51C
"average" - 49C
Min/Idle - 26C (I think the higher minium temp is because the Yate Loons are always running at 100%, but the Blademaster was controlled by the mobo)

1 High Speed Yate Loon
Max temp - 51C
"average" - 49C
Min/Idle - 18C

2 High Speed Yate Loons
Max temp - 47C
"average" - 43C
Min temp - 19C


----------



## edsai

Krusher33, thanks for reply my last post. I did some tests with Prime 95.

TheYonderGod, thanks to post your temps. I was curious too about the Blade Master performance.
I traded and replaced my original Blade Master for two Xtraflo 120 mm fans (R4-XFBS-20PK-R1).
The Xtraflo fans has more airflow, but less static pressure than Blademaster.

My results with Core I5 3550 processor with the two Xtraflo fans on Hyper 212+:

Idle temps on Asus Probe: 28 C - 30 C and fans on 600 rpm
Max idle temp reached according the HWMonitor was 37 C

Prime 95: max temp 52 C, average 49 C On HWMonitor
According Asus Probe the fans was running between 600 - 900 rpm

I have preference for PWM fans controlled by the mobo instead of 3-pin fans that runs without PWM.
I didn't have the Blademaster, and I am curious if the one or two Blade Masters could be better my one or two Xtraflo fans.
Also I heard that the Excalibur 120 mm fan will don't worth compared the Blade Master.
Maybe be keep the Blade Master could be the wise choice.


----------



## Krusher33

Personally I don't think so. Like Yonder showed, both of the 1 fans showed same result.


----------



## edsai

Yes, the temps performed by both 1 fans are similar.
But in my opinion the Blade Master is a better choice cause it's a 4pin PWM fan, and the Yate Loon is a 3-pin fan.


----------



## SuperDeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Yes, the temps performed by both 1 fans are similar.
> But in my opinion the Blade Master is a better choice cause it's a 4pin PWM fan, and the Yate Loon is a 3-pin fan.


agreed








Blade Master
600 - 2000 R.P.M.
21.2 - 76.8 CFM
0.40 - 3.90 mm H2O
13 - 32 dBA
Long Life Sleeve 40,000 Hours

i have 3 Blade Master fans using a gelid pwm 1-to-4 splitter all being controlled by the CPU header








than i would say Cougar fans are great


----------



## DizzlePro

I prefer Arctic cooling F12's (PWM) over the Blademasters, i also get better temps


----------



## serbusfish

What are peoples opinions on heatsink orientation? I have mine facing upwards atm with an exhaust fan at the top of my case as well as at the rear (both Arctic Cooling 120mm fans). Anyone else have theirs mounted like this? Not sure how much orientation affects temps, interested to know if having it face the rear would help any.

Also does using 2 fans on the heatsink make much difference vs just the one? I only have the stock one fitted atm.


----------



## Statius

Add me!

Using the Coolermaster Hyper 212 plus with 2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's in push pull @ 1450RPM's.

35C idle 67C load with P95

4.6GHZ i5 2500K 1.288V


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serbusfish*
> 
> What are peoples opinions on heatsink orientation? I have mine facing upwards atm with an exhaust fan at the top of my case as well as at the rear (both Arctic Cooling 120mm fans). Anyone else have theirs mounted like this? Not sure how much orientation affects temps, interested to know if having it face the rear would help any.
> Also does using 2 fans on the heatsink make much difference vs just the one? I only have the stock one fitted atm.


I cannot give you an answer to how they perform in different orientation but I can assure you that most people will only notice a 2 degrees celcius difference going from a single fan to dual and that the stock one is perfect for this particular heat sink.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serbusfish*
> 
> What are peoples opinions on heatsink orientation? I have mine facing upwards atm with an exhaust fan at the top of my case as well as at the rear (both Arctic Cooling 120mm fans). Anyone else have theirs mounted like this? Not sure how much orientation affects temps, interested to know if having it face the rear would help any.
> 
> Also does using 2 fans on the heatsink make much difference vs just the one? I only have the stock one fitted atm.


I'm running my Hyper in a vertical orientation. Not by choice though. I cant close my side panel otherwise. But I have 2 140mm exhaust fans on the top of my case. I think performance of the two orientations is pretty much the same if you have fans doing exhaust work for the cooler. I will post temps for you on Monday when I am back by my PC.


----------



## chinesethunda

Statius and thescreensavers added

as for horizontal or vertical positioning, check out my sig for the fan testings i did


----------



## Pheozero

Hello all. Quick question. Has anybody had any problems mounting the Hyper 212 Evo correctly? No matter what I do this last screw won't match up. Is this a problem or have I messed up horribly somewhere?


----------



## Teiji

Unscrew them all. Align the screws with the holes. Screw them in a criss-cross pattern (in order: top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left)...you may need to use a bit force.


----------



## Pheozero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Unscrew them all. Align the screws with the holes. Screw them in a criss-cross pattern (in order: top-left, bottom-right, top-right, bottom-left)...you may need to use a bit force.


Will do.


----------



## TheYonderGod

Also I'm not sure if this is what you did, but it kinda looks like it, don't tighten any until all of them are in. Put each screw in about 1 turn then go over each one a couple turns at a time.


----------



## dnnk

Add me.


----------



## ConradTP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pheozero*
> 
> Hello all. Quick question. Has anybody had any problems mounting the Hyper 212 Evo correctly? No matter what I do this last screw won't match up. Is this a problem or have I messed up horribly somewhere?


Try first aligning the x-bracket without the actual HS first, just place it over no need to tighten.
AFAIK x-bracket allows the adjusting of the screw location with notches, and the screws for 1155 must be in the middle.


----------



## Bomster

Took a little fan pic. (Excuse the pun)


----------



## chinesethunda

added everyone, nice pic bomster


----------



## Pheozero

Got it fixed. Thanks guys pics coming soon(ish).


----------



## EoL RiNzleR

i am looking at getting one for a mates birthday. would you guys recommend this cooler for a 3770k?


----------



## Bomster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EoL RiNzleR*
> 
> i am looking at getting one for a mates birthday. would you guys recommend this cooler for a 3770k?


This cooler will work well, yes. But of course you could spend more money and get better cooling, something like the Noctua NH-D14.

Nevertheless, for the £0 - £40 budget I would say the Coolermaster Hyper EVO is one of the best choices you could make.


----------



## Statius

How much better is the EVO then the normal Hyper 212 plus?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Statius*
> 
> How much better is the EVO then the normal Hyper 212 plus?


The Evo makes better contact with the chip.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> The Evo makes better contact with the chip.


But reviews show minimal difference between the two......


----------



## Bomster

Just get which ever is cheaper. If they're the same price get the EVO.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> But reviews show minimal difference between the two......


That's because the Evo has a (bit) lower rpm fan, aimed towards silence.


----------



## dragonsamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Statius*
> 
> How much better is the EVO then the normal Hyper 212 plus?


I've tested both in my system with everything equal, the evo kept my processor two degrees cooler after one hour of prime 95.

I kept the plus because I got it for $20 (after $10 rebate). The evo was $35. To me $15 wasn't worth two degrees.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragonsamus*
> 
> I've tested both in my system with everything equal, the evo kept my processor two degrees cooler after one hour of prime 95.
> I kept the plus because I got it for $20 (after $10 rebate). The evo was $35. To me $15 wasn't worth two degrees.


pretty much this sums it up


----------



## Statius

Yeah I had the chance to grab the EVO when I built my sig rig, but I decided to just grab the Hyper 212 Plus.

It does quite well for me.

I use it with MX-4 TIM and 2X Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15's @ 1450RPMS.

34C idle and 67C load during P95. (72C or so during LinX)
HAs a hard time breaking 43C during gaming.

(4.6GHZ @ 1.325V)

I'm sure every owner will agree with me on this: For $25 or so (What I paid new via the egg) It's an all-in one ready to kick ass cooler, that can take a SB to 4.5GHZ with ease.

For $25.. you can't beat that!!


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> That's because the Evo has a (bit) lower rpm fan, aimed towards silence.


I don't think so.

The Hyper 212 Evo has 2 versions: standard and EU. The EU version has a fan with lower rpm, CFM and air pressure.
The EU version stock fan is the worst cause it has very low air pressure.

Fan with low air pressure can be used as case fan but are not recommended to be used as cooler fans.
I dunno why Cooler Master did a different version for EU.

Hyper 212+ (Blade Master Fan)

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6603

Fan Speed 600 - 2000 R.P.M. (PWM)
Fan Airflow 21.2 - 76.8 CFM
Fan Air Pressure 0.40 - 3.90 mmH2O
Fan Noise Level (dB-A) 13 - 32 dBA

Hyper 212 Evo

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6741

Fan Speed
600 - 2,000 RPM (PWM) ± 10%
600 - 1,600 RPM (PWM) ± 10% (EU Version)

Fan Airflow
24.9 - 82.9 CFM ± 10%
24.9 - 66.3 CFM ± 10% (EU Version)

Fan Air Pressure
0.3 - 2.7mm H2O ± 10%
0.3 - 1.7mm H2O ± 10% (EU Version)


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> I don't think so.


I see, I was referring to the EU version... they often make slightly different products for EU (like the TPC 800 for example).


----------



## chinesethunda

the blademaster is a bit better than the fan that comes with the evo


----------



## Bomster

I have the EU version, should I look into swapping the fans? What is the recommended setup for fans these days? Push/pull?


----------



## Ramsey77

Just an FYI: Anyone that would like to use 140mm fans on our 212's, these will work. I have a couple non PWM Maru2's that I test fit last night. Didn't really do any comparisons because I don't have all of my fans in the case. Just wanted to let everyone know that the 140's that are drilled to fit a 120 screw pattern Will work. I would like to get a couple of the PWM models to compare to the Blademasters eventually.


----------



## DizzlePro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> I have the EU version, should I look into swapping the fans? What is the recommended setup for fans these days? Push/pull?


i have these is a push/pull and they keep my cpu peaks @ 59C


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> I have the EU version, should I look into swapping the fans? What is the recommended setup for fans these days? Push/pull?


Before spend money replacing the stock fan is better test your cooler perfomance first.
Check the idle temp then run a CPU stress program like Prime 95 for some time or a few minutes.
Post here the temps.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DizzlePro*
> 
> i have these is a push/pull and they keep my cpu peaks @ 59C


I have a Core I 3550 and a Hyper 212+ with 2 Xtraflo fans.
My Xtraflo fan is the same that came with the standard Hyper 212 Evo, not the EU version.

Core temps by RealTemp while running the Prime95:

Min: 20 C, 26 C, 18 C, 21 C
Max: 47 C, 51 C, 47 C, 48 C

The CPU fans runned between 600 - 900 rpm according the Asus Probe.
The fans can go until 2000 rpm, but never went more than 1000 rpm during the test.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> I have a Core I 3550 and a Hyper 212+ with 2 Xtraflo fans.
> My Xtraflo fan is the same that came with the standard Hyper 212 Evo, not the EU version.
> Core temps by RealTemp while running the Prime95:
> Min: 20 C, 26 C, 18 C, 21 C
> Max: 47 C, 51 C, 47 C, 48 C
> The CPU fans runned between 600 - 900 rpm according the Asus Probe.
> The fans can go until 2000 rpm, but never went more than 1000 rpm during the test.


Then it's pointless to swap.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Then it's pointless to swap.


Yes, I agree that who have the Hyper 212+ should keep the stock fan (Blade Master).
When I purchased my Hyper 212+ I traded my Blade Master fan only because I wanted 2 same fans, and my seller didn't have another Blade Master fan.
So I decided to grab from my seller 2 Xtraflo fans (the same fan that come with standard Hyper 212 Evo, not EU version).

I believe that who have the standard Hyper 212 Evo will no need to replace the stock fan too.
I have the same fan with my Hyper 212+ and it's perfoming well.

But the Hyper 212 Evo EU version don't came with the same fan as standard Evo version.
The Evo EU version has a fan with less CFM and low air pressure.
It's the worst fan when compared to the stock fan fom Plus or standard Evo.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> I believe that who have the standard Hyper 212 Evo will no need to replace the stock fan too.


I bought two Blademasters for my EVO.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I bought two Blademasters for my EVO.


LOL..
Please, let me know, is your Evo the standard version, not EU version, isn't it?
Did you tested the Evo stock fan before replacing it by the two Blade Masters?
If yes, what fan performs better or have no such differences?
The Blade Master seems noisier or quieter than Evo stock fan?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> LOL..
> Please, let me know, is your Evo the standard version, not EU version, isn't it?
> 
> Did you tested the Evo stock fan before replacing it by the two Blade Masters?
> 
> If yes, what fan performs better or have no such differences?
> 
> The Blade Master seems noisier or quieter than Evo stock fan?


It is the standard version.

The two Blademasters I am running in Push/Pull on low rpm, cool better than the single stock fan on med/high. Pretty much the reason I went with P/P in the first place = More airflow, less noise.


----------



## chinesethunda

if you look at ehume's fan tests, the blademasters performs better than the xtraflows, honestly I have 4 blademaster fans simply because they perform so well. they even outperform the gt ap15s, but the reason people don't use the blademasters as much is because they aren't silent enough for their liking


----------



## Ramsey77

Newegg has the Evo on sale for $25.99/free shipping with this promo code: EMCNCGJ243


----------



## chinesethunda

man... if it weren't for the fact i have so many coolers, i would get it to test it lol


----------



## chinesethunda

Here is a callout to anyone who has spare blademasters or spare xtraflows laying around, Cyclops is doing his fan tests and would like to have a pair to of the blademasters and a pair of the xtraflows to add to the testing. You can find his thread HERE and you can contact him if you are feeling generous! Thanks


----------



## chinesethunda

anyone?


----------



## Ramsey77

Did some testing with 2x 140mm Scythe Maru2



They dropped my load temp 5-6C and the larger fans pull air across the heatsinks on my RAM better too.


----------



## Bomster

I'm intertested in doing this ^.

One question: if the exhaust that the CPU cooler will be using (exhaust fan on the back of the case) is only 120mm and therfore probably slower, will this cause hot air to build up inside my case? I've seen people mention totally removing that exhaust fan?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> I'm intertested in doing this ^.
> One question: if the exhaust that the CPU cooler will be using (exhaust fan on the back of the case) is only 120mm and therfore probably slower, will this cause hot air to build up inside my case? I've seen people mention totally removing that exhaust fan?


I was thinking about trying it that way, but haven't yet. I have two 140mm exhaust fans right above my cooler, so I doubt if there is any air trapped inside the case. Taking the side panel off only drops the temp 1-2 degrees. If the cooler lined up better with the rear exhaust port of my case it might work better, but as half of it blows directly into the back of the case just above the GPU, i think the rear fan is helping that air escape. I should try it and see if my theory holds water. (please don't tell me to trim out the rear of my case, as I would rather keep it stock appearing on the outside, and I have two curious children so fan guards are a must).


----------



## chinesethunda

what were your temps before? because now I am interested in such as well, seeing as how I have a 140mm fan handy


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> what were your temps before? because now I am interested in such as well, seeing as how I have a 140mm fan handy


I forgot to get a screenshot of the Blademasters performance, but the hottest core was 72c.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I forgot to get a screenshot of the Blademasters performance, but the hottest core was 72c.


And I'm not sure if they are really comparable since these 140's aren't PWM. I had my Blademasters set on the Silent profile of my motherboard. I never did try them on the Turbo setting so that temp difference might not be that much since the 140's were tested at 12v on a fan controller. I DO think that the bigger fans help cool the RAM better than the blademasters did however. I should have hooked the BM's up to my fan controller to get a better comparison.

Edit: Sorry for the double post. I hit quote instead of edit on the last post. oops.


----------



## Buttermilk

I'm a big fan of the CM 212's I've had 3 of them so far and I just bought a 212 Evo a few months ago. 



 I did for it if you want to take a look.


----------



## scorpscarx

I have this cooler, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103057, which is similar to this one but with 2 fans slightly offset from one another.

I've grown to hate how it looks and want a cooler that performs a little better.

Edit: Highly considering Corsair H80/100 now.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> I have this cooler, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103057, which is similar to this one but with 2 fans slightly offset from one another.
> I've grown to hate how it looks and want a cooler that performs a little better.
> Edit: Highly considering Corsair H80/100 now.


No that thing is WAY different.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> I have this cooler, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103057, which is similar to this one but with 2 fans slightly offset from one another.
> I've grown to hate how it looks and want a cooler that performs a little better.
> Edit: Highly considering Corsair H80/100 now.
> 
> 
> 
> No that thing is WAY different.
Click to expand...

Fixed.


----------



## scorpscarx

Admittedly I have done zero research into the Hyper 212, but it just looks like a perfectly rectangular version of the one I have with a 120 fan vs 92.

Sorry lol... Just wanted to post here because it seems active. I should have bought the 212 originally and added another fan.

I'm close to buying the corsair h100.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> I've seen people mention totally removing that exhaust fan?


I took it off and tried it with no exhaust fan. It was worth 1C off of the hottest core. So I guess I will leave it off since having it there is really no benefit, and I like the look of it without it better.


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> Admittedly I have done zero research into the Hyper 212, but it just looks like a perfectly rectangular version of the one I have with a 120 fan vs 92.
> Sorry lol... Just wanted to post here because it seems active. I should have bought the 212 originally and added another fan.
> I'm close to buying the corsair h100.


Alright quoting myself to emphasize that I'm now basically converted over to the CM212 rather than going with a super high end and massive air cooler, or a CLC.

*The question is would the CM212 improve my temps which are 40C/55C vs the other CM that I'm using now.* It would save me some cash, and I think it looks better than mine. The other option is the XIGMATEK Aegir, but the price not sure it's worth it over cm212.

In the future I do plan on delving into custom open loop water cooling, because to my tastes I really dislike the massive air coolers that are available.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> Alright quoting myself to emphasize that I'm now basically converted over to the CM212 rather than going with a super high end and massive air cooler, or a CLC.
> *The question is would the CM212 improve my temps which are 40C/55C vs the other CM that I'm using now.* It would save me some cash, and I think it looks better than mine. The other option is the XIGMATEK Aegir, but the price not sure it's worth it over cm212.
> In the future I do plan on delving into custom open loop water cooling, because to my tastes I really dislike the massive air coolers that are available.




There you go, the Hyper 212 Plus is 13.2 degrees ahead of the Hyper N520 under overclocked conditions.


----------



## rockosmodlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> There you go, the Hyper 212 Plus is 13.2 degrees ahead of the Hyper N520 under overclocked conditions.


Lol, this little cooler never ceases to impress me.


----------



## chinesethunda

it's great, definitely one of the better ones i've bought, it's also now 19.99 after 10 dollar MIR at newegg


----------



## scorpscarx

Thanks guys, yeah just checked Fry's locally and it's $20 definitely going to buy it today.


----------



## Alastair

Yep. I am also looking forward to the fact that CoolerMaster will be doing a revision of the Hyper 212 again soon. Look forward to seeing what that turns out like! My EVO has two xTRA FLOW fans. Keeps my new rigs Phenom 2 quad at 53C during stability testing. Doesn't often break 40C during gaming. Thats at 4.3Ghz @1.5435v. Going to try and push up to 4.4Ghz. Hope it is stable:thumb:


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yep. I am also looking forward to the fact that CoolerMaster will be doing a revision of the Hyper 212 again soon. Look forward to seeing what that turns out like! My EVO has two xTRA FLOW fans. Keeps my new rigs Phenom 2 quad at 53C during stability testing. Doesn't often break 40C during gaming. Thats at 4.3Ghz @1.5435v. Going to try and push up to 4.4Ghz. Hope it is stable:thumb:


new revision is great. that's all i can say


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yep. I am also looking forward to the fact that CoolerMaster will be doing a revision of the Hyper 212 again soon. Look forward to seeing what that turns out like! My EVO has two xTRA FLOW fans. Keeps my new rigs Phenom 2 quad at 53C during stability testing. Doesn't often break 40C during gaming. Thats at 4.3Ghz @1.5435v. Going to try and push up to 4.4Ghz. Hope it is stable:thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> new revision is great. that's all i can say
Click to expand...

Needs 1 small change for AMD though. But other than that, beyond expectations.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yep. I am also looking forward to the fact that CoolerMaster will be doing a revision of the Hyper 212 again soon. Look forward to seeing what that turns out like! My EVO has two xTRA FLOW fans. Keeps my new rigs Phenom 2 quad at 53C during stability testing. Doesn't often break 40C during gaming. Thats at 4.3Ghz @1.5435v. Going to try and push up to 4.4Ghz. Hope it is stable:thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> new revision is great. that's all i can say
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Needs 1 small change for AMD though. But other than that, beyond expectations.
Click to expand...

What small change?


----------



## Krusher33

Can't say yet.


----------



## scorpscarx

Grabbed one and added a SickleFlow. I could bore yall with a paragraph explaining my rig but instead here are some unflattering pics in the absence of that. This was once a 690 II Advanced.

Temps are better, about 5C on cores and 5C for the CPU reading, haven't tested load yet.


----------



## Alastair

How did you guys get the top fin of the cooler black?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> How did you guys get the top fin of the cooler black?


I painted mine.


----------



## chinesethunda

nice look, cool case


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> Grabbed one and added a SickleFlow. I could bore yall with a paragraph explaining my rig but instead here are some unflattering pics in the absence of that. This was once a 690 II Advanced.
> Temps are better, about 5C on cores and 5C for the CPU reading, haven't tested load yet.


That Sickleflow is gonna do absolutely nothing in terms of improving temperatures.


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> nice look, cool case


Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> That Sickleflow is gonna do absolutely nothing in terms of improving temperatures.


Maybe I'll put it on top so it shines light down and take off the industrial bad boy, but the Sickleflow it is pulling a lot of air.

O yeah, it's 10C less under max load!!!, awesome.


----------



## chinesethunda

yeah that sickleflow isn't going to do much because the blademaster pushes more air and has higher static pressure


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> yeah that sickleflow isn't going to do much because the blademaster pushes more air and has higher static pressure


I may order a couple more from Newegg down the line.

What do yall do with old stock heatsinks and crappy fans that you don't want anymore? I guess the best is a metal recycling company or something but that sounds like too much work getting them there.
Goodwill donation or just recycle them with recycling?


----------



## Alastair

Good question. I still have my stock Athlon 2 and Phenom 2 heatsinks lying around.


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Good question. I still have my stock Athlon 2 and Phenom 2 heatsinks lying around.


Yeah I've got a couple as well, I played around with them, removed all the plastic pieces and turned them into scrap metal.

Now to find some local place that buys metal.


----------



## SirWooties

This will sound like a super ******ed and nooby question. Can I wash my heatsink in water? Theres alot of dust stuck in the fins and I can't get it out even with my metro dust cleaner.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> This will sound like a super ******ed and nooby question. Can I wash my heatsink in water? Theres alot of dust stuck in the fins and I can't get it out even with my metro dust cleaner.


Yes, but just make sure it's completely dry before installing it back into your rig.


----------



## SirWooties

What are the best 120mm fans for a push pull config on a hyper 212 evo? I have the stock evo fan and a blade master but these are terrible. I'm thinking about the new corsair 120mm high performance fans. Thoughts?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> What are the best 120mm fans for a push pull config on a hyper 212 evo? I have the stock evo fan and a blade master but these are terrible. I'm thinking about the new corsair 120mm high performance fans. Thoughts?


Blademasters aren't terrible fans, far from it. I would ditch the stock one and just get another Blademaster. That's what I did, and it works great.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> What are the best 120mm fans for a push pull config on a hyper 212 evo? I have the stock evo fan and a blade master but these are terrible. I'm thinking about the new corsair 120mm high performance fans. Thoughts?


You clearly didn't read the entire thread did you?? On the Hyper 212 line of heat sinks the Blademasters dethrone the Scythe Gentle Typhoons AP15s which are widely considered the king when it comes to heat sink and radiator fans (better than those Corsair fans).


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

my HYPER 212+ IS WORKING Excellent CPU never hit 55c as yet even when rendering in sony vegas im using the matrix compound from artic silver because i could not get the good stuff . here is morning a boot up pict :/


----------



## edsai

Hey folks.

I know that the Blademaster is one of the best PWM fans for heat sinks.

How does the Blademaster performs at side panel or at rear case?

Any fan at my motherboad chassis fan header starts at 60%.
So I want to know if the Blademaster at 60% or running at 1200 rpm is still quiet or loud.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## chinesethunda

the blademaster is actually pretty quiet, it's actually quieter than it's rated. super quiet at 1500rpms

although the 140mm fans with 120mm holes are super better


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> So I want to know if the Blademaster at 60% or running at 1200 rpm is still quiet or loud.
> Thanks in advance.


I run mine at %100 rpm constantly, and I wouldn't consider it loud, can't really give you any scientific data other than the actual tech specs of the blademaster.

I don't mind fan noise in general as long as it's not above a certain point and I would definitely consider Blademaster one of the more silent ones.

*Noise Level
13 - 32 dBA*


----------



## SirWooties

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> You clearly didn't read the entire thread did you?? On the Hyper 212 line of heat sinks the Blademasters dethrone the Scythe Gentle Typhoons AP15s which are widely considered the king when it comes to heat sink and radiator fans (better than those Corsair fans).


Hmm i am intrigued. Maybe i'll just get the corsairs for the rear and side panel fans for my case instead. Another blade master to replace to stock evo fan. One pet peeve of mine is glossy components, they seem to attract more dust imo.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> What are the best 120mm fans for a push pull config on a hyper 212 evo? I have the stock evo fan and a blade master but these are terrible. I'm thinking about the new corsair 120mm high performance fans. Thoughts?


Why your Evo seems not good with the stock fan and the blade master fan?
Fan noise, bad processor temps?


----------



## dragonsamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> I may order a couple more from Newegg down the line.
> What do yall do with old stock heatsinks and crappy fans that you don't want anymore? I guess the best is a metal recycling company or something but that sounds like too much work getting them there.
> Goodwill donation or just recycle them with recycling?


The blade master is $9 on Amazon right now. I just ordered one.


----------



## scorpscarx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dragonsamus*
> 
> The blade master is $9 on Amazon right now. I just ordered one.


Thanks for the heads up bro!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



I'm broke as a joke right now though!!!


----------



## Ramsey77

$7 at Newegg after rebate with free shipping.


----------



## dragonsamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> $7 at Newegg after rebate with free shipping.


I would've totally bought it from there.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scorpscarx*
> 
> I run mine at %100 rpm constantly, and I wouldn't consider it loud, can't really give you any scientific data other than the actual tech specs of the blademaster.
> I don't mind fan noise in general as long as it's not above a certain point and I would definitely consider Blademaster one of the more silent ones.
> *Noise Level
> 13 - 32 dBA*


Actually it's been tested that the blademaster is actually quieter than the dB level shown on their descriptions
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirWooties*
> 
> Hmm i am intrigued. Maybe i'll just get the corsairs for the rear and side panel fans for my case instead. Another blade master to replace to stock evo fan. One pet peeve of mine is glossy components, they seem to attract more dust imo.


good choice, the blademaster also performs better than the xtraflow that comes with the evo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Why your Evo seems not good with the stock fan and the blade master fan?
> Fan noise, bad processor temps?


look at my response above

also the reason that blademaster is better than gt ap15 in terms of temps is because it runs at higher rpms. but the reason people love the ap15 is because it's quieter, but if you are just running 2 of these fans, they are pretty quiet imo


----------



## slipee

Hello club,

I'm leaving my H60 behind after many frustrations of it not seating well on my 2500k. I've tested it for more than 6 months, reapplied TIM more than 10 times, and tried to re-seat uncountable times.

I'm seriously thinking about getting a Hyper 212 plus, but before I do that, I'd like to ask some things:

1) I'm thinking that leaving my H60 for a 212 would be walking backwards, but as my H60 presented no difference from intel's stock cooler, it will already be a win. I'd put 2x AKASA Viper that I have here on it to set it push/pull. Would that make a little difference, since those fans are PWM?

2) I'm still considering to buy a Havik 140, how far is the 212+ from it?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slipee*
> 
> Hello club,
> I'm leaving my H60 behind after many frustrations of it not seating well on my 2500k. I've tested it for more than 6 months, reapplied TIM more than 10 times, and tried to re-seat uncountable times.
> I'm seriously thinking about getting a Hyper 212 plus, but before I do that, I'd like to ask some things:
> 1) I'm thinking that leaving my H60 for a 212 would be walking backwards, but as my H60 presented no difference from intel's stock cooler, it will already be a win. I'd put 2x AKASA Viper that I have here on it to set it push/pull. Would that make a little difference, since those fans are PWM?
> 2) I'm still considering to buy a Havik 140, how far is the 212+ from it?
> Thanks in advance!


Corsair H60

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus

The NZXT Havik 140 is darn close to the Noctua NH-D14 so it's way above the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus' league.


----------



## chinesethunda

i would get the havik


----------



## Cape Cod

I have the Hyper 212 plus. Picked it up for $18.00 and they even have it now at Newegg for $30 with a $10 rebate which is $20 << not to bad.
I can tell you for such a cheap cooler I can't be more pleased. BUT!!! in order to make this a outstanding cooler for the money you must push pull fans and it's like night and day with load temps.

I have my 2600 at 4.8 - 1.400v



Not to bad temps for a $40 price tag with fans









lol Proof is in the avatar


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slipee*
> 
> Hello club,
> I'm leaving my H60 behind after many frustrations of it not seating well on my 2500k. I've tested it for more than 6 months, reapplied TIM more than 10 times, and tried to re-seat uncountable times.
> I'm seriously thinking about getting a Hyper 212 plus, but before I do that, I'd like to ask some things:
> 1) I'm thinking that leaving my H60 for a 212 would be walking backwards, but as my H60 presented no difference from intel's stock cooler, it will already be a win. I'd put 2x AKASA Viper that I have here on it to set it push/pull. Would that make a little difference, since those fans are PWM?
> 2) I'm still considering to buy a Havik 140, how far is the 212+ from it?
> Thanks in advance!


The H60 stock fan seems good for heatsink with good static pressure, also it's PWM.

Fan Speed Up to 1700 RPM
Fan Airflow 74.4 CFM
Fan dBA 30.2 dBA
Fan Static Pressure 3.2 mm-H2O

Also the Akasa Viper is PWM and seems good too. It's also used as Venom Voodoo stock fan.

Product code AK-FN059
Fan speed 600 -1900 RPM
Max airflow 83.63 CFM
Max static air pressure 2.98 mm H2O
Noise level 6.9 -28.9 dB(A)

Did you installed the H60 fans at the rear case?
Both fans must be in the same direction working as exhaust fans.
The hot air from the radiator must be exhausted outside the case.


----------



## slipee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> The H60 stock fan seems good for heatsink with good static pressure, also it's PWM.
> Fan Speed Up to 1700 RPM
> Fan Airflow 74.4 CFM
> Fan dBA 30.2 dBA
> Fan Static Pressure 3.2 mm-H2O
> Also the Akasa Viper is PWM and seems good too. It's also used as Venom Voodoo stock fan.
> Product code AK-FN059
> Fan speed 600 -1900 RPM
> Max airflow 83.63 CFM
> Max static air pressure 2.98 mm H2O
> Noise level 6.9 -28.9 dB(A)
> Did you installed the H60 fans at the rear case?
> Both fans must be in the same direction working as exhaust fans.
> The hot air from the radiator must be exhausted outside the case.


Believe me, I've tried all you suggestion in the very first week when I bought it. Now imagine what else I could have tested in 6 months.

I'm really disappointed and already even sold it for a friend. I never wanna hear about corsair coolers again.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slipee*
> 
> Believe me, I've tried all you suggestion in the very first week when I bought it. Now imagine what else I could have tested in 6 months.
> I'm really disappointed and already even sold it for a friend. I never wanna hear about corsair coolers again.


It's not Corsair coolers that are bad, it's just that you bought the wrong Corsair cooler.


----------



## slipee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> It's not Corsair coolers that are bad, it's just that you bought the wrong Corsair cooler.


Yes, that was my conclusion after all this time...
I even thought of getting a H80, but I ended up buying the Havik 140


----------



## chinesethunda

the havik is a good choice.


----------



## Alastair

Ramsey77. I remember you did an article on how to paint your fans. But I dont want to paint my fans. I just want to take my one fan and just take it off the hub and motor and transfer it to another fan hub and motor. Both are 200mm aerocool fans. But the one fan doesn't fit because its body isn't the right shape. Can you post how to do this? Please!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Ramsey77. I remember you did an article on how to paint your fans. But I dont want to paint my fans. I just want to take my one fan and just take it off the hub and motor and transfer it to another fan hub and motor. Both are 200mm aerocool fans. But the one fan doesn't fit because its body isn't the right shape. Can you post how to do this? Please!


Sorry man, I haven't ever did a transplant before. But if the frame isn't the right shape, I think you are out of luck. Unless you have a Dremel tool and want to butcher the frame. Post some pics of what you want to do, maybe we'll be able to come up with something that will work.


----------



## Lazlonius

Can I get in this club


----------



## Alastair

Ramsey77 I'll send you a PM with all the pics as its got nothing to with the forum. I'll make this a weekend project!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Ramsey77 I'll send you a PM with all the pics as its got nothing to with the forum. I'll make this a weekend project!


Shoot em over, I will take a look.


----------



## Alastair

Ramsey77. There is no need to send pics. I sorted out the problem. The issue i was having was that the mounting holes of the new fan jutted out a bit more then the old fan. Which means hat if i put the new one in i wouldn't be able to close my case cause of my 212. So all i did was I cut them down to the right size!


----------



## Ramsey77

Cool man. Glad you got it sorted out.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> Here is a callout to anyone who has spare blademasters or spare xtraflows laying around, Cyclops is doing his fan tests and would like to have a pair to of the blademasters and a pair of the xtraflows to add to the testing. You can find his thread HERE and you can contact him if you are feeling generous! Thanks


^^^ Bumping this, c'mon everyone !







^^^


----------



## chinesethunda

lazlonius has been added

anyone with spare blademasters/xtraflows to spare to contribute to the cause?


----------



## Formel

Does anyone have a link to the bladmaster fans on newegg?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Formel*
> 
> Does anyone have a link to the bladmaster fans on newegg?


Here you go.


----------



## kenmore81

I replaced my blademaster with 2 yate loon highspeed 120s and use my blademaster as a case fan on my htpc


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kenmore81*
> 
> I replaced my blademaster with 2 yate loon highspeed 120s and use my blademaster as a case fan on my htpc


Why??


----------



## fatherof3

Morning guys,

Ive ot an intel e6850 on a p5n32esli mobo that has been having many didfferent bsod's lock ups/freezes etc etc turns out the contact plates on my chip only needed some cleaning - i coudnt overclock or anything, - after cleaning it its so stable now its unreal, but the problem i have now is, on my golden orb 2 cooler one of the lockdown screws are slipping a thread(where the screw goes into the mounting plate).

Soooooo im gonna go buy one of these badboys today as i see they are lga775 compatible, but i wanna ask, im buiding my new rig in jan/feb (get xmas out the way first). does this cooler come with all the backplates i would need to fit on a 2700k/z77 mobo chip set up?

At the moment i have my chip @3.666 @1.42 and hitting temps of 72, which i think i can get down as when i first booted my pc up just now my idle was at 40, when its normally at 30-32 on bootup.

Also is it the evo or the plus i buy? also would i be aswell getting aftermarket fans in push/pull? - i have read up to about page 60 or so in this forum, and will take me some time to read it all - after all it is 450 pages long.

Kindest regards
paul


----------



## virus_on_web

Hello all!

I'm also a proud owner of a Hyper 212+. I switched from a Corsair H70 back to CM because of the generally better airflow in the case. My mobo got pretty hot.
What i want to ask is: has anyone tried to open/disassemble the stock fan? Mine got really loud over the time and i want to clean the insides. I tried to search this thread but found nothing useful about opening the fan and 442 pages is allot to read. And our friend Google showed me only pictures of the fan already opened. I don't want to destroy it.

And for the future, 2-3 months from now on, would it be helpful to put 2 Noctua NF-F12 in push/pull and the stock cooler at the rear as exhaust?

Thanks!


----------



## Ramsey77

I've never had a Blademaster apart, but if it comes apart like other sleeve bearing fans, the "Paint Your Fans" link in my sig will show you how to do it.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *virus_on_web*
> 
> Mine got really loud over the time and i want to *clean the insides*.


You mean relubricate it ? Check ehume's guide.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Morning guys,
> Ive ot an intel e6850 on a p5n32esli mobo that has been having many didfferent bsod's lock ups/freezes etc etc turns out the contact plates on my chip only needed some cleaning - i coudnt overclock or anything, - after cleaning it its so stable now its unreal, but the problem i have now is, on my golden orb 2 cooler one of the lockdown screws are slipping a thread(where the screw goes into the mounting plate).
> Soooooo im gonna go buy one of these badboys today as i see they are lga775 compatible, but i wanna ask, im buiding my new rig in jan/feb (get xmas out the way first). does this cooler come with all the backplates i would need to fit on a 2700k/z77 mobo chip set up?
> At the moment i have my chip @3.666 @1.42 and hitting temps of 72, which i think i can get down as when i first booted my pc up just now my idle was at 40, when its normally at 30-32 on bootup.
> Also is it the evo or the plus i buy? also would i be aswell getting aftermarket fans in push/pull? - i have read up to about page 60 or so in this forum, and will take me some time to read it all - after all it is 450 pages long.
> Kindest regards
> paul


The Hyper 212 line of coolers have a universal back plate that fits on all common sockets. Get the Evo. Just one of the stock fan is enough.


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The Hyper 212 line of coolers have a universal back plate that fits on all common sockets. Get the Evo. Just one of the stock fan is enough.


Thanks Wong dude, although you say "most common sockets" im assuming that will do me a 2700k/3570 etc etc?

regards
Paul


----------



## fatherof3

Disregard, i mis read that, i see now you wrote "all" my apologies.
Regards


----------



## kenmore81

Because a pair of yate loons beats a pairs of blademasters. Plus 2 yate loons cost less than 1 blademaster

Granted a 1°c difference isnt earth shaking, but putting 2 yate loons on gives me an extra blade master to use elsewhere. Blademasters are great fans! But i can buy high speed yate loons for like $5-$6 a fan.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Thanks Wong dude, although you say "most common sockets" im assuming that will do me a 2700k/3570 etc etc?
> regards
> Paul


There are two Evo versions, the standard (RR-212E-20PK-R2) and for EU (RR-212E-16PK-R1).

The EU Evo stock fan has less CMF and lower air pressure than the standard Evo stock fan.

The standard Evo fan seems a good fan for heatsinks.
Also I have two these fans on my 212+. No cons for me.
But I dunno how the EU Evo fan performs, but it seems a weak fan for heatsinks aimed to silence.


----------



## chinesethunda

if the yate loons are a higher rpm than the blademaster, then i wouldn't be surprised if it cools better


----------



## edsai

Sad news for me about the Blademasters.
They're out of sold for many sellers on my country (Brazil).
I could only find plenty of newer Cooler Master fans series like Xtraflo and Excalibur.

Is the Blademaster becoming a discontinued fan?


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> There are two Evo versions, the standard (RR-212E-20PK-R2) and for EU (RR-212E-16PK-R1).
> The EU Evo stock fan has less CMF and lower air pressure than the standard Evo stock fan.
> The standard Evo fan seems a good fan for heatsinks.
> Also I have two these fans on my 212+. No cons for me.
> But I dunno how the EU Evo fan performs, but it seems a weak fan for heatsinks aimed to silence.


Hey, thanks
Im not sure which one ive bought, i guess it wont matter bout the noise.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250981029334?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

regards
paul


----------



## BritishBob

I have one of these sat in the corner of my room, and will me getting another. They problem is some idiot glued some crappy cooler backplates to the motherboard I want to use them on. I need to get them off before I can use the 212s... :'(


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey, thanks
> Im not sure which one ive bought, i guess it wont matter bout the noise.
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/250981029334?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
> regards
> paul


You got the EU version.
My only cons is about it low air pressure.
Maybe no really need to worry only because the listed air pressure.

Fan Speed
600 - 2,000 RPM (PWM) ± 10%
600 - 1,600 RPM (PWM) ± 10% (EU Version)

Fan Airflow
24.9 - 82.9 CFM ± 10%
24.9 - 66.3 CFM ± 10% (EU Version)

Fan Air Pressure
0.3 - 2.7mm H2O ± 10%
0.3 - 1.7mm H2O ± 10% (EU Version)

Fan Noise Level (dB-A) 9 - 36 dBA
9 - 31 dBA (EU Version)


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> How did you guys get the top fin of the cooler black?


You can do what I did back in the day when I had my Hyper 212 plus and add carbon fiber vinyl


----------



## virus_on_web

Thanks for the links adridu59 and Ramsey77 for the links!

I want to clean and relubricate it, i can see some dust in there. Unfortunately the rubber cap is missing, or it is a really good fixed plastic cap that i cannot take apart. I looks like it would be made out of one piece... Other ideas? I will try and crack it open when i get the Noctuas, then i will post some pictures if it all ends well


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> You got the EU version.
> My only cons is about it low air pressure.
> Maybe no really need to worry only because the listed air pressure.
> Fan Speed
> 600 - 2,000 RPM (PWM) ± 10%
> 600 - 1,600 RPM (PWM) ± 10% (EU Version)
> Fan Airflow
> 24.9 - 82.9 CFM ± 10%
> 24.9 - 66.3 CFM ± 10% (EU Version)
> Fan Air Pressure
> 0.3 - 2.7mm H2O ± 10%
> 0.3 - 1.7mm H2O ± 10% (EU Version)
> Fan Noise Level (dB-A) 9 - 36 dBA
> 9 - 31 dBA (EU Version)


Thanks again dude, i sent an email asking for the version to be confirmed, and you are indeed correct, - well it will have to do, im sitting at 3.69 @ 1.42 @72 deg, so hopefully i'll get 10c off that.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> How did you guys get the top fin of the cooler black?
> 
> 
> 
> You can do what I did back in the day when I had my Hyper 212 plus and add carbon fiber vinyl
Click to expand...

Looks EPIC! A guide on how to do that?


----------



## Marioshi

Hey there,

Can I join the club? I had a question too. How much of a difference are people seeing in adding a second fan to the 212+


----------



## Ramsey77

3-4 degrees. It's not much. BUT, you can run two at a lower rpm and get about the same airflow as 1 on high, so its a bit more quiet.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marioshi*
> 
> Hey there,
> Can I join the club? I had a question too. How much of a difference are people seeing in adding a second fan to the 212+


added


----------



## fatherof3

Hey guys,
Ive just taken delivery of my 212 evo, and no surprises, im slightly confused, its a socket 775 fitting, and the instructions describe that on the backplate the heat shield must face the mobo, yet the pictures kinda show different, so does the heat shield face the mobo or not, - also ive noticed the x-piece can go in two different ways,with the legs parrallel(when closed) or the legs point outwards(also when closed) by the looks of it, - the locating pin thing that is in the cooler itself appears to ony fit correctly when the xplate is inserted with the legs pointing outwards.

Sorry if im not being vague enough, im trying to type this while watching videos and reading instructions while drooling over the cooler itself.

Also, i cant remember which page(way back in the teens i think) what did you guys do when it came to tightening the x-plate centre screw? what does it actually screw down?

Regards
Paul

EDIT: to addmy bas plate on the cooelr itself, is very almost flush with the heat pipes, do i still fill what minute gap there is with as?(i seen some heatpipes have quite a large gap)


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Ive just taken delivery of my 212 evo, and no surprises, im slightly confused, its a socket 775 fitting, and the instructions describe that on the backplate the heat shield must face the mobo, yet the pictures kinda show different, so does the heat shield face the mobo or not, - also ive noticed the x-piece can go in two different ways,with the legs parrallel(when closed) or the legs point outwards(also when closed) by the looks of it, - the locating pin thing that is in the cooler itself appears to ony fit correctly when the xplate is inserted with the legs pointing outwards.
> Sorry if im not being vague enough, im trying to type this while watching videos and reading instructions while drooling over the cooler itself.
> Also, i cant remember which page(way back in the teens i think) what you guys done when it came to tightening the x-plate centre screw?
> Regards
> Paul


Hello Paul,

Does your mobo have an AMD chip or an Intel chip? Set up seems a lot more complicated than it is, be aware you'll have to remove your motherboard to apply everything. First you'll have to do is remove the old fan/heatsink from your cpu. Whatever the fan/heatsink was mounted to, the brackets, will have to be removed. Usually you just have to loosen 4 screws up top and then underneath the mobo is a plate. The evo comes with this plate, it has dark greenish looking pads on them, do not remove these. If you're using an amd chip the flat base side will be attached to the mobo. If using an intel CPU, the 4 corner brackets will be attached towards the bottom of the mobo. Once you attach this backplate and tighten the screws, you can safely put your motherboard back into your computer. Once your cpu is cleaned off of any old thermal compound, apply a new amount to it. The x-plate is simple to put in. You slide it between the heat sinks and the top of the thermal plate. You'll have to adjust it so that it fits in there. After that you can place the thermal plate onto the cpu, spread the thermal paste a bit and line up the screws to the ones on your mobo. The middle screw on the xplate is only used to adjust tightness on the xplate. The small peg in the bottom of the xplate fits into the hole atop the thermal plate and the small nob ontop the thermal plate holds it in place. Once your screws are alligned, tigthen them and you're good to attach the fan =] The screws might be a bit off from the pegs you screw them into. Don't be shy about using a light bit of force to get the screws into the pegs, then tighten them from there. Just don't be too violent. Now just attach the fan to one of the sides, if you have room on both sides, clip it to the side where it'll be blowing air through the heatsink towards your fan that expels air out the back. If you have another fan, you can create a 'pull' fan and attach it to the other side. Hope this helps!


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Hello Paul,
> Does your mobo have an AMD chip or an Intel chip? Set up seems a lot more complicated than it is, be aware you'll have to remove your motherboard to apply everything. First you'll have to do is remove the old fan/heatsink from your cpu. Whatever the fan/heatsink was mounted to, the brackets, will have to be removed. Usually you just have to loosen 4 screws up top and then underneath the mobo is a plate. The evo comes with this plate, it has dark greenish looking pads on them, do not remove these. If you're using an amd chip the flat base side will be attached to the mobo. If using an intel CPU, the 4 corner brackets will be attached towards the bottom of the mobo. Once you attach this backplate and tighten the screws, you can safely put your motherboard back into your computer. Once your cpu is cleaned off of any old thermal compound, apply a new amount to it. The x-plate is simple to put in. You slide it between the heat sinks and the top of the thermal plate. You'll have to adjust it so that it fits in there. After that you can place the thermal plate onto the cpu, spread the thermal paste a bit and line up the screws to the ones on your mobo. The middle screw on the xplate is only used to adjust tightness on the xplate. The small peg in the bottom of the xplate fits into the hole atop the thermal plate and the small nob ontop the thermal plate holds it in place. Once your screws are alligned, tigthen them and you're good to attach the fan =] The screws might be a bit off from the pegs you screw them into. Don't be shy about using a light bit of force to get the screws into the pegs, then tighten them from there. Just don't be too violent. Now just attach the fan to one of the sides, if you have room on both sides, clip it to the side where it'll be blowing air through the heatsink towards your fan that expels air out the back. If you have another fan, you can create a 'pull' fan and attach it to the other side. Hope this helps!


Hi xero,
Thanks, yh ive kinda got it sussed now, i get how it goes together now, the xplate gets slotted into place with the legs pointing outwards, i have refitted my olden orb cooler several times so i know what im doing with thermal paste etc, i read that thermal paste should be applied to the cooler itself also inbetween the heatpipe gaps, - it appears mine has very little gaps,( my nail doesnt even catch when drawn across the gaps but could probaby still trap air), so i will still put a very small amount in these gaps and smear it across as much as possible(and as thin), its an intel chip, so yh i see now i use the corners against the mobo and not the actual plate.
thank you for going to the trouble to assist, if i only took my time and actually played with it a little i wouldnt have needed to write as much as i did. as ever with me i write before putting my brain into gear(mostly)

Regards
Paul


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hi xero,
> Thanks, yh ive kinda got it sussed now, i get how it goes together now, the xplate gets slotted into place with the legs pointing outwards, i have refitted my olden orb cooler several times so i know what im doing with thermal paste etc, i read that thermal paste should be applied to the cooler itself also inbetween the heatpipe gaps, - it appears mine has very little gaps,( my nail doesnt even catch when drawn across the gaps but could probaby still trap air), so i will still put a very small amount in these gaps and smear it across as much as possible(and as thin), its an intel chip, so yh i see now i use the corners against the mobo and not the actual plate.
> thank you for going to the trouble to assist, if i only took my time and actually played with it a little i wouldnt have needed to write as much as i did. as ever with me i write before putting my brain into gear(mostly)
> Regards
> Paul


No worries, hope it works out well for you. I myself only put the pea size amount on the cpu, then let the pressure of the plate tightening spread it out. Make sure to notice your temps as they are now and then after you apply the Evo. You should get a decent reduction in heat. Cheers.


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> No worries, hope it works out well for you. I myself only put the pea size amount on the cpu, then let the pressure of the plate tightening spread it out. Make sure to notice your temps as they are now and then after you apply the Evo. You should get a decent reduction in heat. Cheers.


Hi Xero,

thats me fitted, heres my resuts - only 1 hr of prime though

with golden orb 2 cooler @stock 3ghz idle 40 prime load 65
After my orb 2 problem (slipping retaining screw) temps were 3-5 more than the above
With the evo, still @stock 3ghz idle 26 for core 0, 32 for core 1 and under load was max 45/49 respectively

So a massive 16deg cooler under load

I will post clocked results later once ive left it to burn in a little.

Ive never been able to stabilise any overclock before now ( turns out alot of bsod's and freezes were due to chips contact plates - i took a little tim remover to the plates) now ive been stable at 3.666 with my temps hitting 75, so now im hoping that this overclock will ive me a max of maybe 60-62, which gives me 10-15deg headroom (i know e6850 max temp is 72, but its only gotta last me till january till i buid my new rig.

I'll post photos in due course.

Like others have posted, this cooler does move slightly when secure??? and i also cannot tighten the centre screw.

Regards
Paul


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hi Xero,
> thats me fitted, heres my resuts - only 1 hr of prime though
> with golden orb 2 cooler @stock 3ghz idle 40 prime load 65
> After my orb 2 problem (slipping retaining screw) temps were 3-5 more than the above
> With the evo, still @stock 3ghz idle 26 for core 0, 32 for core 1 and under load was max 45/49 respectively
> So a massive 16deg cooler under load
> I will post clocked results later once ive left it to burn in a little.
> Ive never been able to stabilise any overclock before now ( turns out alot of bsod's and freezes were due to chips contact plates - i took a little tim remover to the plates) now ive been stable at 3.666 with my temps hitting 75, so now im hoping that this overclock will ive me a max of maybe 60-62, which gives me 10-15deg headroom (i know e6850 max temp is 72, but its only gotta last me till january till i buid my new rig.
> I'll post photos in due course.
> Like others have posted, this cooler does move slightly when secure??? and i also cannot tighten the centre screw.
> Regards
> Paul


 IMG_9029.JPG 3808k .JPG file


IMG_9030.JPG 3443k .JPG file


IMG_9032.JPG 4065k .JPG file


IMG_9033.JPG 3005k .JPG file


----------



## fatherof3

IMG_9033.JPG 3005k .JPG file


IMG_9034.JPG 3387k .JPG file


IMG_9035.JPG 3602k .JPG file


IMG_9036.JPG 2632k .JPG file


IMG_9037.JPG 3673k .JPG file


----------



## Mackem

OK, so I overclocked my 2500K to 4.3GHz at around 1.200V VCore and under full load in P95 my temps are low 60s, is this normal/OK or should it be lower? Perhaps I should user other thermal paste than the stock?


----------



## adridu59

Those are good temps.


----------



## Mackem

OK, I was just checking to make sure it was normal etc. Wonder what sort of voltage I'd need for 4.5.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> OK, I was just checking to make sure it was normal etc. Wonder what sort of voltage I'd need for 4.5.


Yeah, those temps aren't bad at all. I would try 1.25v and work up by .01 increments if you needed to.


----------



## dqniel

Using my 212+ with Yate Loon H's in push/pull @ 1000rpm. My 3570k was delidded and the stock TIM was replaced with IC Diamond. Load temperatures at 4.5Ghz and 1.216v during Prime Blend are ~84C max, but generally spend most of their time around the mid to upper 70s. Ambient temp is about 25C.


----------



## Stinger5150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dqniel*
> 
> Using my 212+ with Yate Loon H's in push/pull @ 1000rpm. My 3570k was delidded and the stock TIM was replaced with IC Diamond. Load temperatures at 4.5Ghz and 1.216v during Prime Blend are ~84C max, but generally spend most of their time around the mid to upper 70s. Ambient temp is about 25C.


Im thinking about going this route too,how is the noise level with 2 fans,thanks.


----------



## dqniel

Extremely low noise at 1000rpm. I can't hear them over the sound of the case fans in my Antec P182 which are set at "low."


----------



## chinesethunda

with anything less than say 1500rpm it's going to be pretty quiet.


----------



## rainbrodash666

well thought I would update the club a little, it has been a while since I posted, I got a new gpu, and pushed my oc a little further. now up from 2.55 to 2.64 stable, and my temps are 34c on cpu die and, 56c on motherboard while under prime blend and gpu under furmark burn in test, also got my window installed that I was talking about a while ago.







so keep it cool (all puns intended)


----------



## Metalhead79

Hi guys,

First post here. (HI!).
I just wanted to pop in and give my results from the 212 EVO. I just installed it yesterday on my system. My case is a Coolermaster HAF 932. I've got the two 230mm intake fans at 100% with the 140mm and 230mm exhaust fan at 50% using an NZXT fan controller. I also have an old Antec tric-cool 120mm x 38mm fan bolted into the bottom of the case set for medium speed. My CPU is an i5-3570k and is currently at stock - I'll be pushing for a 4.5ghz OC soon.
Temperatures inside the case are 24-26c. On the stock cooler my idle temps were ~44c and load testing under OCCT was 80-85c, during GW2 sessions temps hovered between 70-72c with occasional peaks into the 80's. On the 212 EVO (using the thermal paste that came with it) my idle temps are 32c and load in OCCT is 62-65cc, while GW2 is 48c-50c.
I'm pretty happy with it, especially for a $30 cooler. I"m hoping it's up to the task of a 4.5ghz OC, if not, I've got my eye on Thermalrights TRUE Spirit 140.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> Hi guys,
> First post here. (HI!).
> I just wanted to pop in and give my results from the 212 EVO. I just installed it yesterday on my system. My case is a Coolermaster HAF 932. I've got the two 230mm intake fans at 100% with the 140mm and 230mm exhaust fan at 50% using an NZXT fan controller. I also have an old Antec tric-cool 120mm x 38mm fan bolted into the bottom of the case set for medium speed. My CPU is an i5-3570k and is currently at stock - I'll be pushing for a 4.5ghz OC soon.
> Temperatures inside the case are 24-26c. On the stock cooler my idle temps were ~44c and load testing under OCCT was 80-85c, during GW2 sessions temps hovered between 70-72c with occasional peaks into the 80's. On the 212 EVO (using the thermal paste that came with it) my idle temps are 32c and load in OCCT is 62-65cc, while GW2 is 48c-50c.
> I'm pretty happy with it, especially for a $30 cooler. I"m hoping it's up to the task of a 4.5ghz OC, if not, I've got my eye on Thermalrights TRUE Spirit 140.


Pshh... 4.5 is an easy overclock. I got my 2500k @ 4.5 and the temps never get too high. This is my temp on Intel Burn Test...


----------



## Metalhead79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Pshh... 4.5 is an easy overclock. I got my 2500k @ 4.5 and the temps never get too high. This is my temp on Intel Burn Test...


It's my understanding that Ivy Bridge CPUs run considerably hotter than Sandy Bridge, especially when going to 4.6ghz and above. From what I've gathered taking an IB CPU past 4.5ghz on a 212 EVO is pretty tough to do.


----------



## dqniel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Pshh... 4.5 is an easy overclock. I got my 2500k @ 4.5 and the temps never get too high. This is my temp on Intel Burn Test...


I did 4.8Ghz with a 2500K using a 212+ without issue. Now, with a 3570K, I had a hell of a time getting to 4.6Ghz...

I wouldn't say it's easy at all with air cooling, especially with a 212+.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

OMG I WANT TO DO THAT!!!














how did u do it did u remove the top fin alone??


----------



## wongwarren

Just an update. Did some proper testing last night. Ambient was 22C. Idle temperature was 40C and Prime95 custom blend with the maximum available memory that I had which was about 3GB (I only have 4) gave me my load temperature of 67C. Processor is clocked at a conservative 4.2 with a vCore of 1.215.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> It's my understanding that Ivy Bridge CPUs run considerably hotter than Sandy Bridge, especially when going to 4.6ghz and above. From what I've gathered taking an IB CPU past 4.5ghz on a 212 EVO is pretty tough to do.


not really, I just helped my cousin build a computer and I gave him my 4 year old hyper 212+ and he has an ivy bridge and it wen't to 4.6ghz no problem and under load was right at 80C so it was pretty cool under normal load


----------



## Cape Cod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalhead79*
> 
> It's my understanding that Ivy Bridge CPUs run considerably hotter than Sandy Bridge, especially when going to 4.6ghz and above. From what I've gathered taking an IB CPU past 4.5ghz on a 212 EVO is pretty tough to do.


They do but with the right push and pull setup you should be able to.
I'm running my 2600k with HT enable at 4.8 on a plus and have not seen temps above 78c running prime.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> OMG I WANT TO DO THAT!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how did u do it did u remove the top fin alone??


Here you go!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1091063/removing-heatsink-fin


----------



## hannse12

i just got one of these, and i have a question as far as my temps go, i have a phenom II X4 940 @ 3.5 @ 1.39v and the amd cool smart or whatever option in the bios is off (so its constantly at 3.5ghz). my idle temp is 43, and the load temp goes to about 53 deg C. are these temps ok? i am not sure if i tightened it enough, or if these temps are unreasonable. i used a credit card to fill in the HDT gaps, and then one dot on the cpu; was that ok?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hannse12*
> 
> i just got one of these, and i have a question as far as my temps go, i have a phenom II X4 940 @ 3.5 @ 1.39v and the amd cool smart or whatever option in the bios is off (so its constantly at 3.5ghz). my idle temp is 43, and the load temp goes to about 53 deg C. are these temps ok? i am not sure if i tightened it enough, or if these temps are unreasonable. i used a credit card to fill in the HDT gaps, and then one dot on the cpu; was that ok?


Perfect.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

I have a thread started for adding/changing out fans on my hyper 212 evo.

It is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1302926/adding-fans-to-212-evo-questionsss

I am just trying to get some more suggestions.

I am currently thinking about either:

1) Getting 2 of http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1050&products_id=34190 in a push/pull setup.
2) Getting 2 of http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1050&products_id=27664 in a push/pull setup.
3) Getting 1 of either http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213010 in a push setup and let the delta do all the work.









Any suggestions, comments?


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> I have a thread started for adding/changing out fans on my hyper 212 evo.
> It is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1302926/adding-fans-to-212-evo-questionsss
> I am just trying to get some more suggestions.
> I am currently thinking about either:
> 1) Getting 2 of http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1050&products_id=34190 in a push/pull setup.
> 2) Getting 2 of http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1050&products_id=27664 in a push/pull setup.
> 3) Getting 1 of either http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001 or http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213010 in a push setup and let the delta do all the work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions, comments?


I dunno about your motherboard, but I have a Asus motherboard and the CPU Fan header can only control 4-pin PWM fans.
Fan with 3-pin will spin at max rpm.
Only the chassis fan header can control 4-pin or 3-pin fans.

So if your motherboard CPU Fan header can't control a 3-pin fan I would recommend to choose PWM fans for your heatsink.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> I dunno about your motherboard, but I have a Asus motherboard and the CPU Fan header can only control 4-pin PWM fans.
> Fan with 3-pin will spin at max rpm.
> Only the chassis fan header can control 4-pin or 3-pin fans.
> So if your motherboard CPU Fan header can't control a 3-pin fan I would recommend to choose PWM fans for your heatsink.


My current fan at 100% RPM is roughly 36dBA. The fans I was looking at 100% were under that or around that. I have current PWM Cpu fan running 100% all the time. Its not loud at all to me. I have other loud things going in my room/house.

However, I think I have made my decision. I am going to get a PWM Delta and configure it to run low until my mobo detects my cpu temp above a certain degree.

Then I am going to use the current coolermaster cpu fan as my rear exhaust and switch my rear exhaust for a top exhaust.


----------



## adridu59

Gigabyte boards can do voltage control through.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Gigabyte boards can do voltage control through.


I have 3 4-pin headers on my board and 2 3-pin headers. I can't adjust voltage unfortunately. I can only control ---> IF Temp >45 C Then RPM 100%, ELSE RPM 35%. Stuff like that. While I am able to change the percentages of RPM and when to engage at certain temps. I can only control that on my 3 4-pins. My other 2 headers would run 100% all the time if connected.


----------



## Gman200108

I'm using it and it's awesome!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gman200108*
> 
> I'm using it and it's awesome!


Using what?


----------



## Garming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Here you go!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1091063/removing-heatsink-fin


Would painting it affect the heat dissipation or does that plate not affect cooling at all.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garming*
> 
> Would painting it affect the heat dissipation or does that plate not affect cooling at all.


I don't think so because it is still metal.


----------



## Alastair

Guys what's 212 EVO's max TDP? Currently according to SiSoftware Sandra my Phenom 2 is sitting at 150W with my 4.24GHz overclock. Prime 95 temps are getting pretty close to AMD's stated max of 63C. Should I Re-seat the cooler and re-apply the TIM?


----------



## phre0n

Its a little dirty, but it works well.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phre0n*
> 
> 
> Its a little dirty, but it works well.


You would see a drop in ambient and load temps by removing that rear exhaust fan.


----------



## phre0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> You would see a drop in ambient and load temps by removing that rear exhaust fan.


thanks for the tip.

i actually need to replace the fan on the front.. its starting to crap out on me


----------



## BulletSponge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> You would see a drop in ambient and load temps by removing that rear exhaust fan.


Does that only apply to push/pull configurations? What about removing the rear fan in a push only config?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phre0n*
> 
> thanks for the tip.
> i actually need to replace the fan on the front.. its starting to crap out on me


I would remove the front intake then and put your rear exhaust fan up front.

Refer to this. www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning/140#post_18117264

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulletSponge*
> 
> Does that only apply to push/pull configurations? What about removing the rear fan in a push only config?


From all the tests I have seen, I am unsure. I am fixing to test that myself tomorrow or the next day. From what ive seen you get the best temps with no rear exhaust and a push/pull setup with a decent fan or just a pull configuration with no rear exhaust.

Refer to this. www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning/140#post_18117264


----------



## chinesethunda

his link is to my test that I did, but do keep in mind i have no rear grill, if you have a rear grill it would prevent air from leaving that's why the need for a rear fan, I haven't done tests because I don't have a case with a rear grill to test it, but i would think even though it would cool better with push pull, just push with a rear fan would work, but push pull would work with a rear fan as long as your rear fan moves more air than your cooler's fan


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> his link is to my test that I did, but do keep in mind i have no rear grill, if you have a rear grill it would prevent air from leaving that's why the need for a rear fan, I haven't done tests because I don't have a case with a rear grill to test it, but i would think even though it would cool better with push pull, just push with a rear fan would work, but push pull would work with a rear fan as long as your rear fan moves more air than your cooler's fan


I wasn't taking claim on your test, just directing them to your thread where all the good information is at.









Also, I don't know if you saw my post, but I will be testing everything you said up there. And, my case has a rear grille. We will see the values and temps I come up with.


----------



## EliteReplay

HI, I just got this Hyper 212evo today, i also went ahead and bought 2 NZXT FZ RED 120mm fans... to mount then in the exhaust and 1in the Cooler like in this Picture, but my problem is that i didnt realize those fans are only 3pin







and the one that its connected to the CPU pin its running at fullspeed!!!
how can i control this fan? My mobo ASUS M5A97


ALSO CAN I JOIN THE CLUB?


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> HI, I just got this Hyper 212evo today, i also went ahead and bought 2 NZXT FZ RED 120mm fans... to mount then in the exhaust and 1in the Cooler like in this Picture, but my problem is that i didnt realize those fans are only 3pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the one that its connected to the CPU pin its running at fullspeed!!!
> how can i control this fan? My mobo ASUS M5A97
> ALSO CAN I JOIN THE CLUB?


I have a Asus motherboard too and the CPU Fan header can't control 3-pin fans, only 4-pin fans.
But the Chassis Fan can control both 3-pin ou 4-pin fans.

I don't recommend to use the Chassis Fan for a heatsink fan.
I figured that the Asus EPU program can just turn off all fans connected at the Chassis Fan.

So to avoid any risk to have the heatsink fan turned off for some program or power save management is better to use the CPU Fan Header.


----------



## sherlock

Have anyone experimented with 140mm fans on the 212 Plus/Evo, there are good 140mm PWNs with 120mm mounting holes such as TY-140. The advantage would be lower noise, disadvantage might be less Air pressure and the fan being larger than heatsinkitself thus wasting airflow.

Here is my current Evo set up(pardon the poor cable management, still working on it)

Fans: Stock Evo fan(82 CFM) & CM Blademaster 120(76 CFM), Artic Silver

I am considering upgrading to a pair of PWM LED fans with similiar CFM/airpressure and preferably lower noise.

Temps (Prime Torture Blend, without OC->3.6Ghz, 1.14V on my i5-3570K), Ambient 23C, push-pull is about 3-5 C better than Single Fan in term of Max Core temperature under load.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> I wasn't taking claim on your test, just directing them to your thread where all the good information is at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I don't know if you saw my post, but I will be testing everything you said up there. And, my case has a rear grille. We will see the values and temps I come up with.


I know, i wasn't trying to say anything hostile, i was just emphasizing. anyways it will be good if you can redo my test using a rear grill, see what the difference would be with and without a grill.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> HI, I just got this Hyper 212evo today, i also went ahead and bought 2 NZXT FZ RED 120mm fans... to mount then in the exhaust and 1in the Cooler like in this Picture, but my problem is that i didnt realize those fans are only 3pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the one that its connected to the CPU pin its running at fullspeed!!!
> how can i control this fan? My mobo ASUS M5A97
> 
> ALSO CAN I JOIN THE CLUB?


added


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> HI, I just got this Hyper 212evo today, i also went ahead and bought 2 NZXT FZ RED 120mm fans... to mount then in the exhaust and 1in the Cooler like in this Picture, but my problem is that i didnt realize those fans are only 3pin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the one that its connected to the CPU pin its running at fullspeed!!!
> how can i control this fan? My mobo ASUS M5A97
> 
> ALSO CAN I JOIN THE CLUB?


You can either run them as is, buy some new ones that are PWM, buy a fan controller, or search for other alternatives. I really don't think you have that many options. I know some mobos (Gigabytes) allow you to regulate the voltage for each fan header (Reduce voltage = reduce rpm). I would just run them at full speed all the time. If it bothers you that much, buy a fan controller or get some PWM fans.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> I have a Asus motherboard too and the CPU Fan header can't control 3-pin fans, only 4-pin fans.
> But the Chassis Fan can control both 3-pin ou 4-pin fans.
> I don't recommend to use the Chassis Fan for a heatsink fan.
> I figured that the Asus EPU program can just turn off all fans connected at the Chassis Fan.
> So to avoid any risk to have the heatsink fan turned off for some program or power save management is better to use the CPU Fan Header.


Always use the CPU fan header, especially if you are OC'd. Good info here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> Have anyone experimented with 140mm fans on the 212 Plus/Evo, there are good 140mm PWNs with 120mm mounting holes such as TY-140. The advantage would be lower noise, disadvantage might be less Air pressure and the fan being larger than heatsinkitself thus wasting airflow.
> Here is my current Evo set up(pardon the poor cable management, still working on it)
> 
> Fans: Stock Evo fan(82 CFM) & CM Blademaster 120(76 CFM), Artic Silver
> I am considering upgrading to a pair of PWM LED fans with similiar CFM/airpressure and preferably lower noise.
> Temps (Prime Torture Blend, without OC->3.6Ghz, 1.14V on my i5-3570K), Ambient 23C, push-pull is about 3-5 C better than Single Fan in term of Max Core temperature under load.


Refer to this amazing guys thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning/140#post_18145012

He put a lot of work into the tests. You may learn something. I conducted my tests tonight with new fan setups. I am going to post the data tomorrow in a more organized format. I did confirm that when running a push/pull a rear fan only impedes airflow adding degrees to load temps.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> I know, i wasn't trying to say anything hostile, i was just emphasizing. anyways it will be good if you can redo my test using a rear grill, see what the difference would be with and without a grill.
> added


I have the data. I will post it tomorrow. I am tired and the data isn't organized. I am going to put it in excel tomorrow and form a graph. But, I found just a high cfm, high rpm, high static pressure Delta PWM fan in the pull position without a rear exhaust fan WITH a rear grille had the WORST temps out of all the setups I ran.

I plan to start a new thread with my data and results, and if you would allow, add to yours.

EDIT: DATA IS OUT

http://www.overclock.net/t/1305446/different-testing-scenarios-coolermaster-hyper-212-graph-data-findings-recommendations


----------



## chinesethunda

i wouldn't mind adding the data to the thread, I will post a link to your thread in mine.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> i wouldn't mind adding the data to the thread, I will post a link to your thread in mine.


Good deal. I wish i had a IR therm to test ambients but i didn't. I don't have on. Anyway. Test was pretty accurate. I just couldn't verify TOA. Just load temps.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Also, may I join with an EVO? haha.


----------



## chinesethunda

oh yeah, didn't know you weren't added, anyone else want to be added?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> oh yeah, didn't know you weren't added, anyone else want to be added?


Thank youu


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> oh yeah, didn't know you weren't added, anyone else want to be added?


I want to be added(Evo).


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> I am considering upgrading to a pair of PWM LED fans with similiar CFM/airpressure and preferably lower noise.
> Temps (Prime Torture Blend, without OC->3.6Ghz, 1.14V on my i5-3570K), Ambient 23C, push-pull is about 3-5 C better than Single Fan in term of Max Core temperature under load.


I have a Core I5 3550 and the Hyper 212+ with two Xtraflo 120 fans (R4-XFBS-20PK-R1) .
The Xtraflo 120 fan is the same as the stock Evo fan.

Temps according the RealTemp during Prime95:

Temperature: 40C, 46C, 41C, 44C
Minimum: 21C, 26C, 15C, 19C
Maximum: 47C, 50C, 47C, 47C

The fans was running between 650 rpm - 750 rpm.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

I'm working on a new build, and the hyper 212+ will be going in. I can't say anything right now because I haven't decided on the board I want to use. BUT what I can say is it will be keeping cool an i5 3570k AND have much better airflow.

so, we'll see just how well it can perform.


----------



## chinesethunda

i know it can cool an i5 3570k no problem because many people have done it, including myself

also added sherlock


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> I'm working on a new build, and the hyper 212+ will be going in. I can't say anything right now because I haven't decided on the board I want to use. BUT what I can say is it will be keeping cool an i5 3570k AND have much better airflow.
> so, we'll see just how well it can perform.


On a board. I would recommend the ASUS. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131820

Also, a nice alternative would be the http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157293

One more: ONE I WISH I WOULD HAVE BOUGHT: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130660

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> i know it can cool an i5 3570k no problem because many people have done it, including myself
> also added sherlock


Ditto. What is this new "cooling system" you are working on? Im seriously considering making a bracket for my delta PWM fan and make a flexible tunnel that draws cold air in from the outside during the winter.







. Don't know how my neighbors would like that loud Delta fan though lol.


----------



## chinesethunda

it's not so much a new cooling system, it's a new cooler, an upgrade to the hyper 212+, but i beta tested it so i'm not supposed to say anything about it until it comes out i think. but right now my main rig is my phantom is water cooled with gt ap15s but my other rig is cooled with the other hyper212+ upgraded cooler.


----------



## Alastair

Its the new hyper T4 isn't it? Its already plastered all over their website and looks to be the 212's successor. Similar price range with a couple of modifications


----------



## Alastair

Its the Hyper T4 isn't it? its already plastered all over their website and looks to me that it is the 212's successor. Similar price with a number of modifications.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> it's not so much a new cooling system, it's a new cooler, an upgrade to the hyper 212+, but i beta tested it so i'm not supposed to say anything about it until it comes out i think. but right now my main rig is my phantom is water cooled with gt ap15s but my other rig is cooled with the other hyper212+ upgraded cooler.


Well keep us informed..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Its the new hyper T4 isn't it? Its already plastered all over their website and looks to be the 212's successor. Similar price range with a couple of modifications


It looks nice, but before I upgrade from the evo its going to be to a basic water cooler. h100 or something.


----------



## chinesethunda

yes that is it, that's the new one. should I post a link to my findings for it? i haven't done a full usual test for it, i just did a quick beta test and it's good, but they only included a set of one bracket


----------



## adridu59

Official news thread : [CM] New Tower CPU Cooler Hyper T4.

Looks like NDA has been lifted for quite some time.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> yes that is it, that's the new one. should I post a link to my findings for it? i haven't done a full usual test for it, i just did a quick beta test and it's good, but they only included a set of one bracket


You should do a test compare the old to the new with your optimal setup and post your findings.


----------



## chinesethunda

well all i have left of the old hyper212+ is my tests, i don't actually have the cooler anymore. but i don't think that would matter if i just compare it with my old test. problem is i don't have a second pair of brackets for push pull, although i could probably zip tie them to make it better


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> well all i have left of the old hyper212+ is my tests, i don't actually have the cooler anymore. but i don't think that would matter if i just compare it with my old test. problem is i don't have a second pair of brackets for push pull, although i could probably zip tie them to make it better


Yeah, you could.


----------



## Alastair

Why did they have to change the name though? That doesn't really make sense to me. I also think it would have also been even better if it had the continuous direct contact technology. In that one area it won't beat the EVO. So there might be quite a gap between the 212+ but because of the T4's lack of CDC tech it won't out perform the EVO as much.

EDIT: Also are people with T4's going to be allowed to join this club? Will this become the Hyper 212 & Hyper T4 club?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Why did they have to change the name though? That doesn't really make sense to me. I also think it would have also been even better if it had the continuous direct contact technology. In that one area it won't beat the EVO. So there might be quite a gap between the 212+ but because of the T4's lack of CDC tech it won't out perform the EVO as much.
> EDIT: Also are people with T4's going to be allowed to join this club? Will this become the Hyper 212 & Hyper T4 club?


How doesn't it have direct contract technology? http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6864

According to that link: It has 4 direct contract heatpipes.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> How doesn't it have direct contract technology? http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6864
> According to that link: It has 4 direct contract heatpipes.


It has HDT but not CDC = it has 212+ base not 212 Evo base.


----------



## Alastair

Yes it does have direct contact technology. But not CONTINUOUS direct contact technology. Think the difference between 212+ and EVO. Have a look.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

I stand corrected. Thanks for pointing out the difference.


----------



## Alastair

Sure no problem... My only curiosity is, is why did CoolerMaster overlook that?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Sure no problem... My only curiosity is, is why did CoolerMaster overlook that?


That is a good question. They went from non-continuous (212+) --> continuous (212 EVO) --> non-continuous (T4)...

That leads me to wonder what is the temp difference between 212+ and EVO on the same exact setup (or EVO and t4) for that matter.


----------



## Alastair

Difference between 212+ > EVO I believe is 5C at the MOST. If I remember the reviews correctly. I never owned a 212+ so I can't personally say. It makes me wonder if there will even be a a difference between T4 and EVO, and if there is I personally don't think it will be that great.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Difference between 212+ > EVO I believe is 5C at the MOST. If I remember the reviews correctly. I never owned a 212+ so I can't personally say. It makes me wonder if there will even be a a difference between T4 and EVO, and if there is I personally don't think it will be that great.


Are you saying the 212+ yielded better load temps than the EVO 212 or the other way around?


----------



## Alastair

No EVO was better. Sorry for my in-clarity.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> No EVO was better. Sorry for my in-clarity.


Np. I like how they made the T4 smaller. But that is about it.


----------



## Alastair

Well I think they should have included CDC and then the difference between T4 and the rest of the 212 series would have been greater and worth the money it costs.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well I think they should have included CDC and then the difference between T4 and the rest of the 212 series would have been greater and worth the money it costs.


^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^

Maybe it's so they can bring a T4 Evo out later? Not sure why they would have taken a step backward.


----------



## Alastair

Possibly... But it still seems like a waste of effort to me...


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well I think they should have included CDC and then the difference between T4 and the rest of the 212 series would have been greater and worth the money it costs.


Agreed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> ^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^
> Maybe it's so they can bring a T4 Evo out later? Not sure why they would have taken a step backward.


Could be right. T4 EVO FTW.


----------



## Conspiracy

after browsing around what people have said about the 212+ and the EVO and T4 it doesnt sound like it would be worth waiting for the T4 to come out considering it will most likely perform in the same temp ranges as the 212 versions. unless im mistaken all they are doing is just making a updated version of the same thing but not drastically improving its ability to cool over the older heatsinks. as mentioned above that the biggest thing the T4 has going for it is being a little smaller than the 212+ lol

just a matter of whether the few extra dollars make the 212 EVO worth it over the 212+.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> after browsing around what people have said about the 212+ and the EVO and T4 it doesnt sound like it would be worth waiting for the T4 to come out considering it will most likely perform in the same temp ranges as the 212 versions. unless im mistaken all they are doing is just making a updated version of the same thing but not drastically improving its ability to cool over the older heatsinks. as mentioned above that the biggest thing the T4 has going for it is being a little smaller than the 212+ lol
> just a matter of whether the few extra dollars make the 212 EVO worth it over the 212+.


amen


----------



## adridu59

I guess we should ask CM rep and wait for reviews.


----------



## Conspiracy

yea even the EVO seems barely worth the extra money for a few extra degrees. I think i will go with 212+ and replace the fan at some point with a scythe fan that is slightly quieter if im unhappy with the stock fan on it


----------



## Alastair

Go for the EVO. It's great! Manages to keep my Phenom 2 cool @ 4.24GHz while it eats it's way through 1.55v!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> yea even the EVO seems barely worth the extra money for a few extra degrees. I think i will go with 212+ and replace the fan at some point with a scythe fan that is slightly quieter if im unhappy with the stock fan on it


I think the EVO is worth the extra $.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> yea even the EVO seems barely worth the extra money for a few extra degrees. I think i will go with 212+ and replace the fan at some point with a scythe fan that is slightly quieter if im unhappy with the stock fan on it
> 
> 
> 
> I think the EVO is worth the extra $.
Click to expand...

Have to agree!


----------



## Conspiracy

ok ill do evo then. at least its not a major price gap. just trying to save money wherever i can right now. but i do need at least a better heatsink so im not running crazy hot when i render/encode video. and since its so easy to just change my multiplier in bios to get up to like 3.9GHz it only helps to keep my cpu under 100degrees







because just bumping that up to 3.9GHz without even touching volts and other stuff pur me at about 101 max for my temp


----------



## duox

i woudl definetley get the evo if I was buying today. However, I would not replace my 212 + with one unless a future board does not accept it or something.


----------



## Conspiracy

yea i went ahead and ordered the EVO and will use stock thermal paste. seems like most people replace the fan on it. so im not sure if thats because its not higher performance fan or if its noisy. but it easier to replace a fan on it than to not have a decent heatsink at all. because im definitely tired of running mid-high 80's while i edit video and as of lately fold while im not doing video work. will also be nice to do a slight OC up closer to 4GHz without touching volts and worrying about temps. im by no means looking for a heavy OC


----------



## duox

i use stock fan and thermal paste on my 212+ after a year average temps are pretty much the same. Though I am only overclocked to 4.4 ghz so not exactly pushing it.


----------



## Conspiracy

thats sounds pretty good to me lol

overall the 212 looks pretty easy to install as well which is a plus


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> thats sounds pretty good to me lol
> overall the 212 looks pretty easy to install as well which is a plus


You should be great! I am looking into some new TIM for my EVO now.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Personally, I think Cooler Master should update their older products that still sell well. The HAF 912 should have the Advanced version sold in the US for a decent price, because that case is still pretty decent. The Hyper 212+ should be ended in favor of teh Hyper 212 Evo, and have the Evo be in the price range that the Hyper 212 + is in right now.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Personally, I think Cooler Master should update their older products that still sell well. The HAF 912 should have the Advanced version sold in the US for a decent price, because that case is still pretty decent. The Hyper 212+ should be ended in favor of teh Hyper 212 Evo, and have the Evo be in the price range that the Hyper 212 + is in right now.


yea in a perfect world if everyone followed that logic everything would be so much simpler. not sure why companies dont do stuff like that


----------



## chinesethunda

okay, from my experience with the t4 cooler, here's my quick opinion for those who care

the t4 stock vs the hyper 212 evo is about the same, that said, the t4 is actually wider, the fan clips for the t4 is for 120mm fans, as is with the evo, now push pull 120mm fans would probably yield same results, but you could put 140mm fans on both and the t4 might do just a little better because it has more metal for the 140mm fan to cool, now if you wanted to go even bigger and put say a 180mm fan on it, you would utilize the maximum part of the t4 cooler, and that would in fact most likely cool better than the evo.

of course this is just my hypothesis until actual testing, just my


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> okay, from my experience with the t4 cooler, here's my quick opinion for those who care
> the t4 stock vs the hyper 212 evo is about the same, that said, the t4 is actually wider, the fan clips for the t4 is for 120mm fans, as is with the evo, now push pull 120mm fans would probably yield same results, but you could put 140mm fans on both and the t4 might do just a little better because it has more metal for the 140mm fan to cool, now if you wanted to go even bigger and put say a 180mm fan on it, you would utilize the maximum part of the t4 cooler, and that would in fact most likely cool better than the evo.
> of course this is just my hypothesis until actual testing, just my


You gone need some big ol zip ties lol


----------



## chinesethunda

perhaps, i think regular zip ties should work, it's not a thick cooler, just a wide one lol, but i'd love to test it sometime when i get a chance


----------



## Alastair

HYPER 212 ALL THE WAY!!!!!!!!!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> HYPER 212 ALL THE WAY!!!!!!!!!


Yep. Haha. I love the new avatar BTW.


----------



## Alastair

Why thank you. I thought it was hilarious when I saw it!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Why thank you. I thought it was hilarious when I saw it!


She is so hot... LOL


----------



## Alastair

Ha Ha! Have to agree. (I think we are a little off topic now, but who would judge us in this case?)


----------



## Krusher33

I'm using the T4 in one of my rigs now. Replaced the H60 that was in it and it's much quieter. Of course the H60 had a GT 2150 going full blast though.

Personally I think you won't see much if any difference in the temps doing a P/P on it. Because it's thin and air seems to blow right through it with no issue.

My biggest complaint is mount for AMD. It can only be installed one way and that's having the airflow going vertically. Unless they changed it after the beta testing anyways. Really easy though. I was able to mount it while the board is in the case.

I can't tell you the difference between the 212+ and T4 as for noise and performance goes but I did take pictures of it side by side with my 212+.

I think I remember the choices for price suggestions were ridiculously cheap though.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I'm using the T4 in one of my rigs now. Replaced the H60 that was in it and it's much quieter. Of course the H60 had a GT 2150 going full blast though.
> Personally I think you won't see much if any difference in the temps doing a P/P on it. Because it's thin and air seems to blow right through it with no issue.
> My biggest complaint is mount for AMD. It can only be installed one way and that's having the airflow going vertically. Unless they changed it after the beta testing anyways. Really easy though. I was able to mount it while the board is in the case.
> I can't tell you the difference between the 212+ and T4 as for noise and performance goes but I did take pictures of it side by side with my 212+.
> I think I remember the choices for price suggestions were ridiculously cheap though.


I wanna see tests and pictures people.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> I wanna see tests and pictures people.


I second that even though i already have a 212 EVO on the way lol


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> I second that even though i already have a 212 EVO on the way lol


I want to see the EVO 212 vs the T4 with the SAME fan setup in the SAME case. Then compare ambient, load, and TOA temps.


----------



## Black_Rain

i have had good success with 'hot glue' on occasion. i had a 8800 Nvidia that had a little squirrel cage fan that didn't cool at all. so i cut a hole in the cover over the heat sink and hot glued a little high volume fan over it hooked it to a Molex with a fan socket to a speed control... i could play Bad Company2 on pretty high settings with it. you only need to spot tac it on..







don't get carried away with the hot glue, you'll never get it all off. use micro dots.

if it doesnt have a heatsink on it they are available and just glue the fan on that.


----------



## Krusher33

Spoiler: Unboxing









Side by side with my Hyper 212+


Spoiler: Side by side comparisons











I don't think the AMD mount can be any simpler. The only problem is... it can only be installed one way.


Spoiler: AMD Mount









I thought about lapping it after test was over...


Spoiler: Heatpipes







The cooler didn't clear my RAM...


Spoiler: Patriot Viper Xtreme Div 4 IS TOO TALL!







Rig is a mess because stuff has been going in and out, in and out, etc...


Spoiler: Installed








Just mm from the side panel just like the Hyper 212+


Spoiler: Clearance in NZXT Beta Evo Classic








I had to shrink the screenshots for the beta test. I accidentally saved over originals.


Spoiler: Temps under load



The beta cooler...


The H60...




If you can't read it, the Beta cooler was 52 under load and the H60 was 55 under load. Both are after 1 hour in Prime. The H60 was set as an exhaust in that test. When I re-installed it, I put as intake instead and ended up finding matching performance with the Beta cooler.



Spoiler: Instructions :p


----------



## Black_Rain

i ordered a COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus it will be here tomorrow. i got a GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UP5 TH LGA 1155 Intel Z77 mobo and an Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz CPU.

i ordered 2 120mm fans for it. the ad said "Cooler Master Y720DCD-25T1-GP 120mm Blue LED Silent Fan features a broad RPM range and is perfect for the overclocking high CFM power user, or the strictest of silence seekers. Allows up to 110CFM in high performance mode and a very low 16.5dBA in silent mode"

i got some nice clear plastic sheet from work that is flexable but firm, i'm going to see i i can afix it to the sides of the cooler so the air is channeled straight thru faster.

i got a Rosewill full size case, Thor V2 .. it is HUGE.. it weighs 30 pounds. my MSI Twin Frozer 3 GPU is 6.62 inches long and the power cable plug sticks straight out the end too, .. i was using a custom mod case i made for my ASUS Rampage Formula, i figured it was time to get a real case.

i'll post photos when i get put together..

hey.. isnt there a plastic foirmed cover for the 212 that has LEDs on it..?? i thought i saw one some where but i lost it.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black_Rain*
> 
> i ordered a COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus it will be here tomorrow. i got a GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UP5 TH LGA 1155 Intel Z77 mobo and an Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz CPU.
> i ordered 2 120mm fans for it. the ad said "Cooler Master Y720DCD-25T1-GP 120mm Blue LED Silent Fan features a broad RPM range and is perfect for the overclocking high CFM power user, or the strictest of silence seekers. Allows up to 110CFM in high performance mode and a very low 16.5dBA in silent mode"
> i got a Rosewill full size case, Thor V2 case.. it is HUGE.. it weighs 30 pounds. my MSI Twin Frozer 3 GPU is 6.62 inches long.. i was using a custom mod case i made, i figured it was time to get a real case.
> i'll post photos when i get put together..
> hey.. isnt there a plastic foirmed cover for the 212 that has LEDs on it..?? i thought i saw one some where but i lost it.


AMD turned Intel huh? LOL. Love that case. I have its little brother (r5). Rosewill makes amazing cases.


----------



## steve210

can some add me to this club


----------



## stubass

mine, got knock of line a bit (as you can see with the fan and the RAM stick) when i installed an SSD recently but temps are still fine


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> mine, got knock of line a bit (as you can see with the fan and the RAM stick) when i installed an SSD recently but temps are still fine


Be lucky you can fit a DDR3 Ram stick in DIMM A1!







I can't due to my EVO 212.


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Be lucky you can fit a DDR3 Ram stick in DIMM A1!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't due to my EVO 212.


you may not see it but that fan is raised up about 1cm


----------



## Conspiracy

yea i am crossing my fingers i can set mine up as just a pull and not have to worry about clearing my ram lol. im not super worried though


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> yea i am crossing my fingers i can set mine up as just a pull and not have to worry about clearing my ram lol. im not super worried though


from what i can recall, push pull is only a minor difference like a few D*C, pull works fine. i just tried push pull and found it didnt make much difference, tho i kept it because where i am and drop in temp is most welcome


----------



## Conspiracy

im just doing pull because my ram is tall and i know the fan will not clear it lol.


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> im just doing pull because my ram is tall and i know the fan will not clear it lol.


cool, that will be fine.. something i have to do is change my fan's to something like CM blademasters or scythe GT's. if you can also buy one of these fan's to use instead of the stock fan will help a bit as well


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Check my sig. I did some testing on My evo 212. Also the OP of this thread did some extensive conclusive testing as well to check out.

With my mobo and the evo, it will be impossible to install 4 dimms. If I ever get around to installing 4 dimms. Ill upgrade to a watercooling block/kit or h100 or something


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> mine, got knock of line a bit (as you can see with the fan and the RAM stick) when i installed an SSD recently but temps are still fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be lucky you can fit a DDR3 Ram stick in DIMM A1!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't due to my EVO 212.
Click to expand...

Thats why I bought the low profile vengeance RAM.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Thats why I bought the low profile vengeance RAM.


Oh believe me... with my board and the EVO 212... It is IMPOSSIBLE to fit any sort of DDR3 Ram stick in DIMM 1. It just how it is made. The only way I could install a ram stick in DIMM 1 would be to mount the EVO horizontally instead of vertically or put my fan in a pull (Neither of which I care to do). Im just going to upgrade my cooler when if or when I upgrade the ram.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Oh believe me... with my board and the EVO 212... It is IMPOSSIBLE to fit any sort of DDR3 Ram stick in DIMM 1. It just how it is made. The only way I could install a ram stick in DIMM 1 would be to mount the EVO horizontally instead of vertically or put my fan in a pull (Neither of which I care to do). Im just going to upgrade my cooler when if or when I upgrade the ram.


That's too bad it didn't fit. My Evo fits like a glove with my mobo. It's like they were made for each other (on a X79!). I just got lucky there. Yay me! LOL







I couldn't possibly go any wider with the heatsink though. I think I will stick to the EVO.


----------



## TR fans

Try ThermalRight HR-02 Macho.
http://www.amazon.com/ThermalRight-HR-02-MACHO-Thermalright-Macho/dp/B005ERSN7G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1347979777&sr=8-5&keywords=nan%27s+gaming+gear


----------



## chinesethunda

i'll add people when i get home tonight, but idk how you guys aren't able to put ram into the first slot. I had medium height ram in the first slot with my 212+
unless the fan clips are different from the 212+, you can just raise the fan a little bit and have the ram underneath the fan all you have to do is just lower the fan on the pull side and you can do push pull. temps will be the same


----------



## Krusher33

Some clips have springs so that you can't raise or lower the fans.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> i'll add people when i get home tonight, but idk how you guys aren't able to put ram into the first slot. I had medium height ram in the first slot with my 212+
> unless the fan clips are different from the 212+, you can just raise the fan a little bit and have the ram underneath the fan all you have to do is just lower the fan on the pull side and you can do push pull. temps will be the same


Not all motherboards are the same. Different models of motherboards have different distance between CPU socket and first DIMM slot.


----------



## Durvelle27

had my CM Hyper 212+ for a little while and i love it FX 4100 4.4GHz idle: 18 load: 40c


----------



## rayzzr

Anyone running two fans on a 212 with a Gigabyte GA-z77x-d3h mobo, and if so, does it block a RAM slot if the RAM has cooling fins? (I run GSkill 1600, so short/fat fins as opposed to some I have seen with long skinny fins)


----------



## Conspiracy

pretty stoked to install my 212 EVO. it will be delivered tomorrow just in time to edit, render, and encode a bunch of high bitrate DSLR footage


----------



## Vuzer

Hi guys i'll be using the Evo version but i have question with the mainboard positioning. If the heatsink is placed like this position shown on the pic http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2009/08/five-lga1156-coolers-tested-on-lynnfield/212.jpg

How can the fluid stay the bottom of the CPU contact for CPU to boil it efficiently? Mustn't i have the mainboard flat down for the fluid to fill the bottom contact?


----------



## chinesethunda

thats how pretty much all heat sinks are placed.....


----------



## rayzzr

I just picked up an Evo212 off Amazon for about 27, free Prime ship and paid for it with Discover cashback. :thumbs I picked up a tube of AS5 to boot, going to use that with the Evo and remove the crap that is on my stock EVGA GPU cooler. I'll get a pic up this weekend. If the fans can be offset to clear the RAM, I should be good. I think I will add another fan for push/pull later, but I want to benchmark temps with stock config beforehand.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuzer*
> 
> Hi guys i'll be using the Evo version but i have question with the mainboard positioning. If the heatsink is placed like this position shown on the pic http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2009/08/five-lga1156-coolers-tested-on-lynnfield/212.jpg
> How can the fluid stay the bottom of the CPU contact for CPU to boil it efficiently? Mustn't i have the mainboard flat down for the fluid to fill the bottom contact?


There are grooves inside the heat pipes so that the fluid goes where it should.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Not all motherboards are the same. Different models of motherboards have different distance between CPU socket and first DIMM slot.


^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^


----------



## Alastair

I am running my Phenom 2 965 C3 @ 4.24GHz @ 1.55V and my load temps are around 60C when using Prime95. I am getting pretty close to the 63C limit of this chip. Should I reapply TIM because according to Si Software Sandra my CPU's TDP has only increased to 150W over the original 125W. Whats the 212's max TDP? It's 180W if I remember correctly right?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I am running my Phenom 2 965 C3 @ 4.24GHz @ 1.55V and my load temps are around 60C when using Prime95. I am getting pretty close to the 63C limit of this chip. Should I reapply TIM because according to Si Software Sandra my CPU's TDP has only increased to 150W over the original 125W. Whats the 212's max TDP? It's 180W if I remember correctly right?


I have seen tests of a little over 200+ on the hyper 212+, I would expect the EVO to be a little more.


----------



## Krusher33

1.55v on a Phenom chip is pretty high me thinks? Usually folks are considering water cooling when they go that high.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> 1.55v on a Phenom chip is pretty high me thinks? Usually folks are considering water cooling when they go that high.


I agree....


----------



## Alastair

On most of the forums on OCN most of the people I have spoken to say that 1.55V is the like the HIGHEST safe on air. So I am thinking now that this cooler isn't quite mounted properly or something if it is struggling to cool 150W.







Trust me I am too scared to go any higher than this voltage. But I have seen 4.4GHz by some people with only 1.45V so I wonder what is going on there...


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> On most of the forums on OCN most of the people I have spoken to say that 1.55V is the like the HIGHEST safe on air. So I am thinking now that this cooler isn't quite mounted properly or something if it is struggling to cool 150W.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Trust me I am too scared to go any higher than this voltage. But I have seen 4.4GHz by some people with only 1.45V so I wonder what is going on there...


New TIM?


----------



## Alastair

That's what I was thinking. But I just wanted to know the 212's max TDP to confirm my suspicions. Will reapply it on Saturday.


----------



## Conspiracy

Just installed my 212 EVO. Put just a teeny tiny too much TIM but im sure im ok, did the crisscross application.

Tried to flip the stock fan to make it pull but couldnt get the clips off lol so installed it high to clear my ram









Ran prime95 for 2mins while i ran to class. Barely went over 60degrees so dropped my temps by 40 compared to stock intel heatsink.

Just left my pc folding for the foldathon while im in class. Hope i did it all right lol

Deffinitely a large heatsink but for the price im super happy so far


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> That's what I was thinking. But I just wanted to know the 212's max TDP to confirm my suspicions. Will reapply it on Saturday.


Hey, I'm doing the same thing! Hope we both get better results...


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> That's what I was thinking. But I just wanted to know the 212's max TDP to confirm my suspicions. Will reapply it on Saturday.


Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Just installed my 212 EVO. Put just a teeny tiny too much TIM but im sure im ok, did the crisscross application.
> Tried to flip the stock fan to make it pull but couldnt get the clips off lol so installed it high to clear my ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ran prime95 for 2mins while i ran to class. Barely went over 60degrees so dropped my temps by 40 compared to stock intel heatsink.
> Just left my pc folding for the foldathon while im in class. Hope i did it all right lol
> Deffinitely a large heatsink but for the price im super happy so far


You'll be fine. EVO 212 FTW! For the price at least...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Hey, I'm doing the same thing! Hope we both get better results...


Good luck as well.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I am running my Phenom 2 965 C3 @ 4.24GHz @ 1.55V and my load temps are around 60C when using Prime95. I am getting pretty close to the 63C limit of this chip. Should I reapply TIM because according to Si Software Sandra my CPU's TDP has only increased to 150W over the original 125W. Whats the 212's max TDP? It's 180W if I remember correctly right?


If something is not broken, don't fix it


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Deffinitely a large heatsink


No it's not.


----------



## Conspiracy

ok well its fairly tall at least


----------



## phre0n

I think imma pick up a set of cougar fans to set up on my 212


----------



## chinesethunda

well imo when they say 1.55 max on air, i think they mean with a better heat sink, the 212+ and evo are good, but they are by no means great, to cool that better you would need to spend a bit more on a better cooler.

also lemme know if you want me to add anyone


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> well imo when they say 1.55 max on air, i think they mean with a better heat sink, the 212+ and evo are good, but they are by no means great, to cool that better you would need to spend a bit more on a better cooler.
> also lemme know if you want me to add anyone


How much better is the h60 or h100 compared to the EVO? how great of temp decreases would I see?


----------



## Conspiracy

found my #2 screwdriver and switched the stock fan to pull so i wouldnt have to worry about the fan sitting and to clear my ram. also the side of the case was pushing against the fan because it had to sit so high. now i have no problems with everything fitting. and i think it might have even improved slightly by like 2 degrees lolz


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> found my #2 screwdriver and switched the stock fan to pull so i wouldnt have to worry about the fan sitting and to clear my ram. also the side of the case was pushing against the fan because it had to sit so high. now i have no problems with everything fitting. and i think it might have even improved slightly by like 2 degrees lolz


I had the worst temps with that kind of setup though. Check sig


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> I had the worst temps with that kind of setup though. Check sig


ill keep an eye on it for a day or so while folding and see how it goes. right now im folding for foldathon thing and im staying right around 70 +/- 2


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> well imo when they say 1.55 max on air, i think they mean with a better heat sink, the 212+ and evo are good, but they are by no means great, to cool that better you would need to spend a bit more on a better cooler.
> also lemme know if you want me to add anyone
> 
> 
> 
> How much better is the h60 or h100 compared to the EVO? how great of temp decreases would I see?
Click to expand...

Yeah I was thinking about an H70 or something similar in that sort of price range. Will an entry level water loop beat EVO?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah I was thinking about an H70 or something similar in that sort of price range. Will an entry level water loop beat EVO?


i would think so....


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> i would think so....


Entry level water loops:


Cooler Master Hyper 212 PLUS:


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Entry level water loops:
> 
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 PLUS:


So if I am seeing this right,

The only thing that beats load temps on a 212+ is the h100 high speed?


----------



## Conspiracy

that is some crazy results. really like 212 even more now haha


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Am i seeing that right?


----------



## Conspiracy

so i assume thats with the stock fan on the 212 as well? very impressive i think either way


----------



## Alastair

I am definitely sticking with 212EVO!!!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

I really don't believe it to be honest


----------



## Alastair

Well there must be some websites that have reviews to help compare. Maybe there was a major difference in ambient temperatures.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

H100 HS : 60.3 - 28 = 32.3 TOA
H100 B : 65.6 - 30 = 35.6 TOA
212+ : 65.5 - 33 = 32.5 TOA

I just can't believe that the TOA is 3.1C better on the 212+ over the H100 stock.

Now, I don't know the difference between the "Balanced" and "High Speed", But even at high speed, according to his tests, 212+ TOA almost matches the h100. A difference of ONLY .2 Degrees C.

Please, If i am not reading that right. Someone tell me.


----------



## Ramsey77

Mrtoyotaco, I think you are confusing "idle temperature" and ambient temperature, ambient being the temp of the air in the room that the test is being run in. Neither of those charts tell what the actual ambient air is, so a comparison of the two cannot be made. Simply taking the max load temp minus the idle temp does not equal the TOA (temperature over ambient).

If I had to guess, the room was hotter while testing the H100.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I think you are confusing "idle temperature" with ambient temperature, ambient being the temp of the air in the room that the test is being run in. Neither of those charts tell what the actual ambient air is, so a comparison of the two commits be made. Simply taking the max load temp minus the idle temp does not equal the TOA (temperature over ambient).
> If I had to guess, the room was hotter while testing the H100.


Okay. Temperature over idle. Im sorry. Just getting my acronyms mixed up. Still though. This leads me to believe the h100 is not THAT impressive over the 212+


----------



## Ramsey77

I agree, the H100, although better than the 212, isn't worth the extra money. I think people mainly want it for aesthetic purposes, because it cleans up the looks of the motherboard. It performs on par with the "high end" (more expensive) air coolers out now.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I agree, the H100, although better than the 212, isn't worth the extra money. I think people mainly want it for aesthetic purposes, because it cleans up the looks of the motherboard. It performs on par with the "high end" (more expensive) air coolers out now.


I want a true loop though. Lol.


----------



## Ramsey77

I have tossed the idea around several times too, but the sheer simplicity of aircoolers has me spoiled. Plus, the idea that something could go horribly wrong gives me the heebie jeebies.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

I agree. One leak and your toast.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

UPDATED TESTING THREAD FOUND IN SIG


----------



## Alastair

Yeah I would love to do water cooling if I knew it was as trouble free as air cooling! But I am way too scared of shorting something thanks to a small water leak.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Mrtoyotaco, I think you are confusing "idle temperature" and ambient temperature, ambient being the temp of the air in the room that the test is being run in. Neither of those charts tell what the actual ambient air is, so a comparison of the two cannot be made. Simply taking the max load temp minus the idle temp does not equal the TOA (temperature over ambient).
> If I had to guess, the room was hotter while testing the H100.


All Hardware Canucks' cooling tests were done in a room that is temperature controlled at 22C. They write this down in their testing methodology for coolers.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah I would love to do water cooling if I knew it was as trouble free as air cooling! But I am way too scared of shorting something thanks to a small water leak.


Anything is possible bro... That is what I am afraid of as well. That's why they say to test the entire loop outside of the case before installation in the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> All Hardware Canucks' cooling tests were done in a room that is temperature controlled at 22C. They write this down in their testing methodology for coolers.


Im just still amazed by those results.


----------



## Ramsey77

I would like to see the difference in the h100 with our blademasters on the rad. Maybe the stock Corsair fans aren't the greatest?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I would like to see the difference in the h100 with our blademasters on the rad. Maybe the stock Corsair fans aren't the greatest?


Yeah. I'd like to see the same. And what's the difference between balanced and full speed? Did he mod it with different fans or did he just simply turn the stock fan speed to max rpm.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I would like to see the difference in the h100 with our blademasters on the rad. Maybe the stock Corsair fans aren't the greatest?


The stock Corsair fans on the H100 is supposed to give over 7 mmH2O static pressure on full speed which is almost twice that of the stock Blademaster, of course it has a higher max speed too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Yeah. I'd like to see the same. And what's the difference between balanced and full speed? Did he mod it with different fans or did he just simply turn the stock fan speed to max rpm.


Balanced means he set the speed range to medium through the button on the water block. Full just means that button was turned all the way up.


----------



## Alastair

Well then H70 definitely cannot compete then.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The stock Corsair fans on the H100 is supposed to give over 7 mmH2O static pressure on full speed which is almost twice that of the stock Blademaster, of course it has a higher max speed too.
> Balanced means he set the speed range to medium through the button on the water block. Full just means that button was turned all the way up.


I took off my stock fan that came on the EVO 212 and replaced it with the Delta AFC1212D. It has a Maximum Air Pressure 10.92 mm of H²O. My temps went down pretty good just by swapping the fan. Not enough doing a push/pull. Just replacing the push.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well then H70 definitely cannot compete then.


That's probably stock though we have to remember. Now, granted if he had a couple of aftermarket high performance fans on the rad, he may get a lot better results.


----------



## rayzzr

Add me to the club! Got the CM212 EVO on Friday and installed it this evening. With my i5 2550k CPU mildly OC'd to 3.9ghz, running FAH would see the core temps around 80C in a 22C room. Similar results were seen when running Prime95. That was with the stock Intel cooler and using whatever TIM came with it.

I cleaned the old TIM off the CPU and used AS5 (I know some will likely give me grief for this, loads of opinions on this - some good, some bad) and mounted the Evo with the fan flipped and on the backside of the heatsink (Pull config). In my Blackwell ATX case, the CM fan on the Evo almost lines up with the case fan at the top rear of the case, which is set to exhaust.

I am now seeing temps around 58-59C per core when running FAH or Prime95, with 63C being the highest I have seen yet. With the stock cooler I was seeing slighly over 80C at full load in a 22C room, so between the CM212EVO and the AS5 I have gained about 20C in cooling capacity.









I did have to remove the side door fan, which was set to intake, but it hit the CPU cooler so it had to go. Not even sure a lo-profile fan would work - not much clearance between the door and the top of the heatsink.

Very well pleased with the result, and hoping to see slightly better temps once the AS5 cures more.

Oh, and idle temps are around 30-33C in same 22C room condition.

:


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayzzr*
> 
> Add me to the club! Got the CM212 EVO on Friday and installed it this evening. With my i5 2550k CPU mildly OC'd to 3.9ghz, running FAH would see the core temps around 80C in a 22C room. Similar results were seen when running Prime95. That was with the stock Intel cooler and using whatever TIM came with it.
> I cleaned the old TIM off the CPU and used AS5 (I know some will likely give me grief for this, loads of opinions on this - some good, some bad) and mounted the Evo with the fan flipped and on the backside of the heatsink (Pull config). In my Blackwell ATX case, the CM fan on the Evo almost lines up with the case fan at the top rear of the case, which is set to exhaust.
> I am now seeing temps around 58-59C per core when running FAH or Prime95, with 63C being the highest I have seen yet. With the stock cooler I was seeing slighly over 80C at full load in a 22C room, so between the CM212EVO and the AS5 I have gained about 20C in cooling capacity.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have to remove the side door fan, which was set to intake, but it hit the CPU cooler so it had to go. Not even sure a lo-profile fan would work - not much clearance between the door and the top of the heatsink.
> Very well pleased with the result, and hoping to see slightly better temps once the AS5 cures more.
> Oh, and idle temps are around 30-33C in same 22C room condition.
> :


Just so you know, the stock Shin-Etsu TIM that comes with the stock Intel heat sink is among the best if not THE best, better even than your AS5.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Just so you know, the stock Shin-Etsu TIM that comes with the stock Intel heat sink is among the best if not THE best, better even than your AS5.


Are you serious? Lol. The stock Intel thermal is better than AS5?


----------



## PontiacGTX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Are you serious? Lol. The stock Intel thermal is better than AS5?


Shin-Etsu is the best TIM, then, a stock cooler with it can make better work than any AS paste


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PontiacGTX*
> 
> Shin-Etsu is the best TIM, then, a stock cooler with it can make better work than any AS paste


Anyway to remove it?


----------



## rayzzr

The TIM is already on the stock Intel cooler (it looked like two pads of paste already on it, so not like it came with a tube of TIM I could make use of. Granted, I bought the CPU and cooler from a buddy so perhaps there was a tube he did not pass along, but I know for fact the TIM was already on the cooler and was applied at the factory. He had not used the stock cooler because he was using an H60 with the i5, this before he sold me the i5 and bought an i7.

The CM212 comes with a tube of TIM as well, and I asked CM support if it was a relabelled product such as Shin Etsy but they would not confirm. They suggested I use their product instead of the AS5, but admitted that they were not familiar with AS5 (wasn't it *the* most commonly used for years?!?). In the end I used my own judgement and I'm happy with the result.

24hrs of FAH running on all 4 cores at 100% in a 22C room and the core temps are hovering at an average of 60C, with the highest read value being 63C. A huge improvment over the stock cooler, which was 80C and higher at full load with the same ambient temps.


----------



## Alastair

Does the quality of TIM really make a huge difference?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Does the quality of TIM really make a huge difference?


Yea. Some people see temp decreases 5 c from switching to like indigo extreme from regular paste or even as5.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayzzr*
> 
> The TIM is already on the stock Intel cooler (it looked like two pads of paste already on it, so not like it came with a tube of TIM I could make use of. Granted, I bought the CPU and cooler from a buddy so perhaps there was a tube he did not pass along, but I know for fact the TIM was already on the cooler and was applied at the factory. He had not used the stock cooler because he was using an H60 with the i5, this before he sold me the i5 and bought an i7.
> The CM212 comes with a tube of TIM as well, and I asked CM support if it was a relabelled product such as Shin Etsy but they would not confirm. They suggested I use their product instead of the AS5, but admitted that they were not familiar with AS5 (wasn't it *the* most commonly used for years?!?). In the end I used my own judgement and I'm happy with the result.
> 24hrs of FAH running on all 4 cores at 100% in a 22C room and the core temps are hovering at an average of 60C, with the highest read value being 63C. A huge improvment over the stock cooler, which was 80C and higher at full load with the same ambient temps.


It comes preapplied on the stock heatsink. No tube of paste comes with it. I was just wondering if anyone has successful removed and used TIM on another heatsink.


----------



## sweffymo

I always use the OEM Cooler Master TIM. Whenever someone I know buys a CM cooler I take their TIM from them. It's usually at least 3c better than AS5 or Ceramique. OEM CM TIM is even better than OCZ Freeze in my experience.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sweffymo*
> 
> I always use the OEM Cooler Master TIM. Whenever someone I know buys a CM cooler I take their TIM from them. It's usually at least 3c better than AS5 or Ceramique. OEM CM TIM is even better than OCZ Freeze in my experience.


I wonder how the CM TIM compares to the indigo extreme.. Im using the CM TIM and I am quite happy with it. Seems to be doing its job.


----------



## Black_Rain

use Nano Diamond Thermal Paste, it is 4.5X better than the best Silver paste... there are several brands out there now


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black_Rain*
> 
> use Nano Diamond Thermal Paste, it is 4.5X better than the best Silver paste... there are several brands out there now


I will look into it. Thanks.


----------



## chinesethunda

the TIM that now comes with the hyper212+ and evo are pretty bad, best to get your own TIm

the h100 is comparable to the d14 and silver arrow etc, so its much better than the 212+

the 212+ is a good cooler, but not super comparable to the higher priced coolers, anyways added a few people lol


----------



## Alastair

gotta get me some!!!!!!!!!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

What about MX4?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Okay... Over the weekend, I opened my computer and reapplied thermal paste. On my sig rig, I went from the standard CM TIM at these temps...

To these temps with Artic Cooling MX2


----------



## LongRod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Okay... Over the weekend, I opened my computer and reapplied thermal paste. On my sig rig, I went from the standard CM TIM at these temps...
> 
> To these temps with Artic Cooling MX2


In the second SS, the CPU isn't under load.

Might wanna test it again, just a tip.


----------



## dnnk

There are times, when i boot it says CPU fan error. I am literally staring at the fan as it spins. Jump into bios and bios tells me its spinning at around 550 (and the text is red) when it jumps above 600, i can boot with no problem.


----------



## chinesethunda

maybe you just need to go into bios and bump up the idle fan power %

also cyanide, you gotta put it under load for the second one buddy


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> maybe you just need to go into bios and bump up the idle fan power %
> also cyanide, you gotta put it under load for the second one buddy


Look at the maximum down there, it went from 71C to 66C. The picture on the bottom shows the load just stopped.


----------



## Alastair

I'm just using Akasa AK-455 TIM. Cheap stuff.....


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LongRod*
> 
> In the second SS, the CPU isn't under load.
> Might wanna test it again, just a tip.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> maybe you just need to go into bios and bump up the idle fan power %
> also cyanide, you gotta put it under load for the second one buddy


Look at the time stamp on RealTemp and the Maximum temp. The first pic has at least 1 1/2 hours on it, and i took the screen shot while it was folding. The second one had been running at least 3 hours and I stopped [email protected] to take the screen shot. The number to look at is the maximum.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Look at the maximum down there, it went from 71C to 66C. The picture on the bottom shows the load just stopped.


Thanks.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Okay... Over the weekend, I opened my computer and reapplied thermal paste. On my sig rig, I went from the standard CM TIM at these temps...
> 
> To these temps with Artic Cooling MX2


So, it appears you had an average core drop of around 5 C. That's pretty impressive. I'm starting to notice that purchasing a better TIM pretty much in every situation is a better solution for decreased load temps then adding fans or modifying a push/pull configuration. And, you get a lot of those impressive TIM's for around 20 dollars or less.


----------



## chinesethunda

i had gotten the 5 tubes of the mx2 when it was like 3 bucks shipped, i figure they are good enough


----------



## wongwarren

Has anyone heard of the Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra pastes?? Are they good?? Liquid metal AFAIK.


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Has anyone heard of the Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra pastes?? Are they good?? Liquid metal AFAIK.


i have heard of them been used as a replacement TIM when people de-lid their ivy bridge CPU. not sure how they would perform as a TIM for a cooler tho


----------



## Alastair

Which TIM to choose guys. Coolermaster NanoFusion PTK-003 or Arctic MX-4 or Zalman ZM-STG2 Super Thermal Grease. All are the same price at my local e-tailer.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Which TIM to choose guys. Coolermaster NanoFusion PTK-003 or Arctic MX-4 or Zalman ZM-STG2 Super Thermal Grease. All are the same price at my local e-tailer.


i say get them all and mix them together in one tube and then use that
















seriously dont do that though probably would not work haha


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Which TIM to choose guys. Coolermaster NanoFusion PTK-003 or Arctic MX-4 or Zalman ZM-STG2 Super Thermal Grease. All are the same price at my local e-tailer.
> 
> 
> 
> i say get them all and mix them together in one tube and then use that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> seriously dont do that though probably would not work haha
Click to expand...

Ha ha! Chose the MX-4. It's gonna gets squeezed into all the crevices between my lapped processor and my 212!!!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Has anyone heard of the Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra pastes?? Are they good?? Liquid metal AFAIK.


I've seen it used on top of the IHS. But like the guy before me said, its mostly used directly on top of the raw CPU under the IHS then something like MX4 applied on top on the IHS.


----------



## edsai

Hey folks,

I heard a few guys recommending the EVGA Superclock CPU cooler over than the 212 Plus/Evo.
The EVGA Superclock has 5 heatpipes but is not designed for dual fan.
It's really better or worth than the 212 Plus/Evo?


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Hey folks,
> 
> I heard a few guys recommending the EVGA Superclock CPU cooler over than the 212 Plus/Evo.
> The EVGA Superclock has 5 heatpipes but is not designed for dual fan.
> It's really better or worth than the 212 Plus/Evo?


Whats the difference in price? I am sure you could jerry-rig a second fan onto it.. Cable ties or something like that. It seems to be better than the 212. Here you can make the choice yourself.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/EVGA-Superclock-CPU-Cooler-Review/1336/1


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Which TIM to choose guys. Coolermaster NanoFusion PTK-003 or Arctic MX-4 or Zalman ZM-STG2 Super Thermal Grease. All are the same price at my local e-tailer.


MX-4. Plus its easy to apply.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> MX-4. Plus its easy to apply.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Hey folks,
> I heard a few guys recommending the EVGA Superclock CPU cooler over than the 212 Plus/Evo.
> The EVGA Superclock has 5 heatpipes but is not designed for dual fan.
> It's really better or worth than the 212 Plus/Evo?


I hear the EVGA Superclock CPU cooler is loud at full blast.
Quote:


> I only had one issue with the EVGA Superclock CPU Cooler throughout the testing and that was the fan that EVGA used. At full speed the fan is cranking away at 2500RPM and 41.5dBA. With that humming away in your system it will get your attention and was the loudest thing in our test system. The EVGA Superclock HSF performed as well as the Zalman CNPS11X at 4GHz and that is rather impressive not only from a performance standing, but also because the Zalman costs almost $30 more as it costs $79.99. In order to get the performance numbers seen in this review EVGA went with a 120mm fan kicking out 84CFM and that is the trade off for this CPU cooler. Just something we wanted to point out as it is something to ponder on.


Legit Reviews

Another site said the same thing.
Quote:


> It's hard to tell what exactly prevented the Swiftech Polaris 120 and the EVGA Superclock from doing better in my tests because their heatsinks represent a very thought-through design with cleverly positioned heat pipes, optimized air flow, and the best-ever implementation of the direct-touch technology. The number of heat pipes (8 millimeters in diameter, by the way) seems sufficient, too. So, I can only see one downside about the new coolers. Their heatsinks have a small overall effective area, which makes the coolers dependent on the speed of the fan. With the fan working at full speed, they delivered high performance, beating the best product from the previous generation of direct-touch coolers.


XBit Labs

So, the fan must work at full speed to put out those impressive numbers out, but full speed is very loud. Any drop in speed greatly decrease performance.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

EVO 212 with DELTA PWM PUSH FTW


----------



## adridu59

eVGA Superclock isn't worth it, the 212 Evo is better even through it has 4 vs. 5 heatpipes.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> eVGA Superclock isn't worth it, the 212 Evo is better even through it has 4 vs. 5 heatpipes.


Agreed. I think the EVO 212 is on sale right now too after rebate.


----------



## edsai

Hey guys, thanks a lot for replying my post.

Usually I like to recommend the Evo for who asking for a good heatsink.

I have a Hyper 212+ dual fan and the EVGA Superclock as single fan didn't really impressed me.
I believe too that the Evo is still a wise choice for the most purposes.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Hey guys, thanks a lot for replying my post.
> Usually I like to recommend the Evo for who asking for a good heatsink.
> I have a Hyper 212+ dual fan and the EVGA Superclock as single fan didn't really impressed me.
> I believe too that the Evo is still a wise choice for the most purposes.


EVO wins.


----------



## Alastair

After a lot of messing around in GHOST and putting some "sleeving" on the cables I got a good shot of the 212 and a nice neat computer, considering that there is no cable routing behind the motherboard.










The "sleeving" kind of looks like power conduits in a space ship and the 212 is the core!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

You have it mounted horizontally. Cool.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> You have it mounted horizontally. Cool.


I actually can't mount it any other way because if my 200mm side panel fan catching on the tips of the heatpipes. The glorious thing is that I have the two 140mm fans at the top helping to exhaust the hot air.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I actually can't mount it any other way because if my 200mm side panel fan catching on the tips of the heatpipes. The glorious thing is that I have the two 140mm fans at the top helping to exhaust the hot air.


I like the blue.


----------



## Alastair

Thank you. Originally wanted a green green/black theme but MSI's current range of motherboards is all blue and black. So I just stuck with it. Turned out good in the end!







The two front intake fans are blue. The side panel fan is blue. the bottom intake is blue. Obviously the top exauhst fans are blue. And the motherboard is just bristling with blue LED's near the RAM.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Thank you. Originally wanted a green green/black theme but MSI's current range of motherboards is all blue and black. So I just stuck with it. Turned out good in the end!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The two front intake fans are blue. The side panel fan is blue. the bottom intake is blue. Obviously the top exauhst fans are blue. And the motherboard is just bristling with blue LED's near the RAM.


Nice. That thing must be glowing blue.


----------



## Alastair

It does. It was the glow blue that made me give it the name!


----------



## chinesethunda

not bad, looks nice, don't remember if you're already added or not, but if not lemme know.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Hyper 212+ 19.99 at newegg for 72hrs AFTER MAIL IN REBATES!!


----------



## rayzzr

How are you guys mounting it horizontally without completely blocking your DIMM slots? On my Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H it appears that the slot closest to the CPU and perhaps the one next to that will be unusable if I put my horizontal.

BTW, the AP15 typoons in a push/pull config rock. I'm convinced that after playing with the stock EVO fan and the Rosewill case fans that I made the right choice. They aren't silent, but they dropped my temps a fair bit at load. Idle was about the same interestingly enough.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayzzr*
> 
> How are you guys mounting it horizontally without completely blocking your DIMM slots? On my Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H it appears that the slot closest to the CPU and perhaps the one next to that will be unusable if I put my horizontal.
> BTW, the AP15 typoons in a push/pull config rock. I'm convinced that after playing with the stock EVO fan and the Rosewill case fans that I made the right choice. They aren't silent, but they dropped my temps a fair bit at load. Idle was about the same interestingly enough.


I choose on Delta PWM as a push. But, on my MSI board, I have it mounted vertically (The way it is intended) and I cannot install Ram in DIMM 1 period. No matter what I do. But, if I mounted it horizontally, I could. It just depends on the board. Im rocking 8GB of memory. That's more than I need. I don't understand anyway why some people completely populate the DIMMs with 32gb+ of Ram. Unless they are doing extensive editing or rendering. I have 3GB DDR3 on my laptop and I do 8 million things on it at once and still haven't gotten within 90% of max.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> not bad, looks nice, don't remember if you're already added or not, but if not lemme know.


I am in the club. I just got a good pic!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayzzr*
> 
> How are you guys mounting it horizontally without completely blocking your DIMM slots? On my Gigabyte GA-Z77X-D3H it appears that the slot closest to the CPU and perhaps the one next to that will be unusable if I put my horizontal.
> 
> BTW, the AP15 typoons in a push/pull config rock. I'm convinced that after playing with the stock EVO fan and the Rosewill case fans that I made the right choice. They aren't silent, but they dropped my temps a fair bit at load. Idle was about the same interestingly enough.


When mounted vertically it does block my first DIMM slot. But that isn't an issue for me!


----------



## SoliDD

Can anyone confirm or deny that a Coolermaster Hyper 212+ fits in a Fractal Core 1000?


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Hey guys, thanks a lot for replying my post.
> Usually I like to recommend the Evo for who asking for a good heatsink.
> I have a Hyper 212+ dual fan and the EVGA Superclock as single fan didn't really impressed me.
> I believe too that the Evo is still a wise choice for the most purposes.


Now, I found in other forums, many guys recommending the Corsair A70 over than the 212 Plus/Evo.

It's funny, the A70 is unvailable in many sellers on my country (Brazil) but people still trying to purchase and recommend It.
According to Newegg the A70 is a discontinued product.

The A70 has two twin fans.
The fans don't support PWM and have two selectable speeds 1600rpm or 2000rpm.

I am curious and just found in the same review, comparisons with the 212 Evo, the EVGA Superclock and the A70.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-Hyper-212-EVO-CPU-Cooler-Review/1407/6

The EVGA Superclock seems to have good results just relying by a higher and loud fan speed.
The Evo could have good temps with one stock fan and less rpm than the two A70 stock fans.
Both EVGA Supeclock and the A70 could be louder than the Evo.

So Evo wins.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Hey guys, sorry to say I'm leaving the club. When it comes to air cooling the evo was a nice step. I feel almost like the evo is what a standard heatsink should be for anyone. However I was wanting a more advanced cooling unit and the Evo just hasn't been doing it for me. It'll be held closely in my heart and kept as a spare in case something goes wrong in the future. Adios Evo!


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Hey guys, sorry to say I'm leaving the club. When it comes to air cooling the evo was a nice step. I feel almost like the evo is what a standard heatsink should be for anyone. However I was wanting a more advanced cooling unit and the Evo just hasn't been doing it for me. It'll be held closely in my heart and kept as a spare in case something goes wrong in the future. Adios Evo!


You don't have to use it to be in the club. You just have to own it.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Hey guys, sorry to say I'm leaving the club. When it comes to air cooling the evo was a nice step. I feel almost like the evo is what a standard heatsink should be for anyone. However I was wanting a more advanced cooling unit and the Evo just hasn't been doing it for me. It'll be held closely in my heart and kept as a spare in case something goes wrong in the future. Adios Evo!


What are you going to?


----------



## Alastair

I can't see many air coolers beating the 212 unless they cost crazy money and are the size of a small spaceship ,so......... maybe he is going to a high end water system?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I can't see many air cooler s beating the 212 unless they cost crazy money and are the size of a small spaceship ,so......... maybe he is going to a high end water system?


Probably. Lol


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I can't see many air coolers beating the 212 unless they cost crazy money and are the size of a small spaceship ,so......... maybe he is going to a high end water system?


Haha, no, I'm not going to any 'high end' water system. I am switching over to the H100 though. I got it for a good deal and decided to go with it. My 8120 just runs way too hot, no matter how much air my case gets or how perfectly applied my thermal paste is on the EVO. And I hate having this gigantic block sitting ontop of the motherboard as I tend to frequently be going into my computer. Getting to things is tough because it's in the way. I'll put my two AP-15s I have on the EVO to good use, maybe make use of the side 200mm fan I can now attach since the evo heatsink will be out of the way.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Haha, no, I'm not going to any 'high end' water system. I am switching over to the H100 though. I got it for a good deal and decided to go with it. My 8120 just runs way too hot, no matter how much air my case gets or how perfectly applied my thermal paste is on the EVO. And I hate having this gigantic block sitting ontop of the motherboard as I tend to frequently be going into my computer. Getting to things is tough because it's in the way. I'll put my two AP-15s I have on the EVO to good use, maybe make use of the side 200mm fan I can now attach since the evo heatsink will be out of the way.


Dont inticipate a huge difference. You will see your ambent temps decrease a good bit but not load temps.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Dont inticipate a huge difference. You will see your ambent temps decrease a good bit but not load temps.


I'll be back to report about it tomorrow =]


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I can't see many air coolers beating the 212 unless they cost crazy money and are the size of a small spaceship ,so......... maybe he is going to a high end water system?
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, no, I'm not going to any 'high end' water system. I am switching over to the H100 though. I got it for a good deal and decided to go with it. My 8120 just runs way too hot, no matter how much air my case gets or how perfectly applied my thermal paste is on the EVO. And I hate having this gigantic block sitting ontop of the motherboard as I tend to frequently be going into my computer. Getting to things is tough because it's in the way. I'll put my two AP-15s I have on the EVO to good use, maybe make use of the side 200mm fan I can now attach since the evo heatsink will be out of the way.
Click to expand...

Let me know how that H100 performs cause I am looking at the H70 as a possible buy to go with an FX Vishera chip if they meet up to standards!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Let me know how that H100 performs cause I am looking at the H70 as a possible buy to go with an FX Vishera chip if they meet up to standards!


I just dont think the H100 is worth the money...


----------



## Alastair

Guys just a quick question. Is there software similar to MSI's Afterburner that can control the fan speed settings on the motherboard? Cause I have set my Smart Fan settings to aim for 40C but still my fans on the 212 sit at around 70% when at 50C and around 80% when at 55C. By the time I get to that temperature I want to be running at 100% cause Phenoms are the most stable below 55C.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Guys just a quick question. Is there software similar to MSI's Afterburner that can control the fan speed settings on the motherboard? Cause I have set my Smart Fan settings to aim for 40C but still my fans on the 212 sit at around 70% when at 50C and around 80% when at 55C. By the time I get to that temperature I want to be running at 100% cause Phenoms are the most stable below 55C.


Eww....

Im not sure bro. I don't know if there is anyone program other than in the BIOS. Atleast I have never seen one.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Guys just a quick question. Is there software similar to MSI's Afterburner that can control the fan speed settings on the motherboard? Cause I have set my Smart Fan settings to aim for 40C but still my fans on the 212 sit at around 70% when at 50C and around 80% when at 55C. By the time I get to that temperature I want to be running at 100% cause Phenoms are the most stable below 55C.


try Speedfan


----------



## mrtoyotaco

I stand corrected


----------



## Cheezman

Hey, do you guys think a 212 will fit in a Rosewill R101-P-BK? It's a pretty small MicroATX case.

Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147112

Thanks.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheezman*
> 
> Hey, do you guys think a 212 will fit in a Rosewill R101-P-BK? It's a pretty small MicroATX case.
> Link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147112
> Thanks.


I would say yes. My rosewill r5 mid size ATX case is 8.1in in width. and my evo 212 has atleast a half inch until the top of the heatpipes hit the side door. Your width on this case is 7.5. It would be mighty close.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Dont inticipate a huge difference. You will see your ambent temps decrease a good bit but not load temps.


Maybe you could be right.

My case could not fit well some air coolers.
So I already posted my CPU temps with my Hyper 212+ dual fan in the Official Corsair Hydro Series Club just to know if the H80 or the H100 could be or not a good choice in my future upgrades.

I posted the following informations:

Core I5 3550
My idle temps with 212+ is 30C and the fans at 600 rpm. I can't hear the fans.
The temps on Prime95 goes around 50C with the fans at 600 - 900 rpm.
Also during the test, the fans seems quiet.

One guy from the club replied my post with just his personal opinion:

"usually the H80 is what we hear is neck to neck with a hyper 212 , but as it was said your temps are impressive the way they are and I think that to meet them you would need higher rpm on the H80 even in push pull, I think you would maybe get better temps ( 1-2 degrees , not much play there ) with the H100 especially in push pull but you need the space and the fans will be more noticeable , where you will see a difference is a nice clean case instead of having a skyscraper sitting on your CPU ."


----------



## Cheezman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> I would say yes. My rosewill r5 mid size ATX case is 8.1in in width. and my evo 212 has atleast a half inch until the top of the heatpipes hit the side door. Your width on this case is 7.5. It would be mighty close.


Close is fine. Running no side panel isn't. lol.

Thanks!


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Let me know how that H100 performs cause I am looking at the H70 as a possible buy to go with an FX Vishera chip if they meet up to standards!


I certainly will let you know!

I'm amazed when people say the 212 is anywhere near as good as an H100 would be. The 212 isn't even a HIGH END air cooling unit. While the H100 isn't a high end water unit, it certainly is no slouch. As far as I can tell, and from the benchmarks I've seen, H100 carried temps better than SA and Phantek PCafghadfdaghx9000 does. I know some of you have/had better luck with your evo than I did but it's just not working out for me. Everyone goes on to praise their 4.2ghz OCs and this and that. My EVO can't sustain that, it can barely sustain a stress test at 3.8ghz. And that's on lowest voltage I can be at. Once again i'll gladly report back here with some results, unit should be in tomorrow. With my case, the radiator for the H100 will be mounted underneath two 200mm fans. Then I'm slapping my two AP-15s underneath that sucker. Hopefully the combined pull and push will result in some nice good temps. I don't care about my idle as long as my stress test temps don't go WHALKDSJTLSDTHISDHTSL









Nothing against anyone using Evo or +. Gonna try another route. now that I have space for the side 200mm fan as well. Blowing some air onto my mobo directly can't be wrong


----------



## Conspiracy

gotta do what you gotta do. if the evo didnt work for you at least youre moving in the right direction to the results that you desire


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Let me know how that H100 performs cause I am looking at the H70 as a possible buy to go with an FX Vishera chip if they meet up to standards!
> 
> 
> 
> I certainly will let you know!
> 
> I'm amazed when people say the 212 is anywhere near as good as an H100 would be. The 212 isn't even a HIGH END air cooling unit. While the H100 isn't a high end water unit, it certainly is no slouch. As far as I can tell, and from the benchmarks I've seen, H100 carried temps better than SA and Phantek PCafghadfdaghx9000 does. I know some of you have/had better luck with your evo than I did but it's just not working out for me. Everyone goes on to praise their 4.2ghz OCs and this and that. My EVO can't sustain that, it can barely sustain a stress test at 3.8ghz. And that's on lowest voltage I can be at. Once again i'll gladly report back here with some results, unit should be in tomorrow. With my case, the radiator for the H100 will be mounted underneath two 200mm fans. Then I'm slapping my two AP-15s underneath that sucker. Hopefully the combined pull and push will result in some nice good temps. I don't care about my idle as long as my stress test temps don't go WHALKDSJTLSDTHISDHTSL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing against anyone using Evo or +. Gonna try another route. now that I have space for the side 200mm fan as well. Blowing some air onto my mobo directly can't be wrong
Click to expand...

Yeah I am also surprised that EVO hasn't worked out for you! It's keeping my Phenom 2 cool and happy at 4.24GHz! Loads at about 55C!


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah I am also surprised that EVO hasn't worked out for you! It's keeping my Phenom 2 cool and happy at 4.24GHz! Loads at about 55C!


Yea, my FX has been quite a journey. I could never even do a regular OCCT test with temps getting way too hot. If core temps get to 60 or above I get quite uncomfortable. I fixed up some voltages and did manage to get it to a low voltage at a stable 3.8. I can test and it runs hot, but slightly under 60 degree core temps. The CPU itself never had heat issues otherwise, though it stayed between 35-50 degrees. The most intensive thing I did with it was render videos. That'd put it around 55 degrees cpu temp, which isn't bad for a cpu temp.

I'm quite curious to see if having an H100 will finally let me make more use of my 8120. I want a stable 4.2ghz at least, though I really wanna push it to 4.5 and beyond. We'll see what happens, fingers crossed.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah I am also surprised that EVO hasn't worked out for you! It's keeping my Phenom 2 cool and happy at 4.24GHz! Loads at about 55C!
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, my FX has been quite a journey. I could never even do a regular OCCT test with temps getting way too hot. If core temps get to 60 or above I get quite uncomfortable. I fixed up some voltages and did manage to get it to a low voltage at a stable 3.8. I can test and it runs hot, but slightly under 60 degree core temps. The CPU itself never had heat issues otherwise, though it stayed between 35-50 degrees. The most intensive thing I did with it was render videos. That'd put it around 55 degrees cpu temp, which isn't bad for a cpu temp.
> 
> I'm quite curious to see if having an H100 will finally let me make more use of my 8120. I want a stable 4.2ghz at least, though I really wanna push it to 4.5 and beyond. We'll see what happens, fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

You might have just recieved a really stubborn chip. Those 1 in a 100 chips that just don't like to overclock!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> I certainly will let you know!
> I'm amazed when people say the 212 is anywhere near as good as an H100 would be. The 212 isn't even a HIGH END air cooling unit. While the H100 isn't a high end water unit, it certainly is no slouch. As far as I can tell, and from the benchmarks I've seen, H100 carried temps better than SA and Phantek PCafghadfdaghx9000 does. I know some of you have/had better luck with your evo than I did but it's just not working out for me. Everyone goes on to praise their 4.2ghz OCs and this and that. My EVO can't sustain that, it can barely sustain a stress test at 3.8ghz. And that's on lowest voltage I can be at. Once again i'll gladly report back here with some results, unit should be in tomorrow. With my case, the radiator for the H100 will be mounted underneath two 200mm fans. Then I'm slapping my two AP-15s underneath that sucker. Hopefully the combined pull and push will result in some nice good temps. I don't care about my idle as long as my stress test temps don't go WHALKDSJTLSDTHISDHTSL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing against anyone using Evo or +. Gonna try another route. now that I have space for the side 200mm fan as well. Blowing some air onto my mobo directly can't be wrong


Maybe you didn't see this....

http://www.overclock.net/t/632591/cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-club/4590#post_18201283

It directly compares the H100 to the 212. I was shocked myself. Everyone will get different results depending on testing variables, but it won't differ that much.


----------



## Vuzer

Do you guys find the Hyper 212 method to secure the heatsink is quite unreliable? All i see is just a "dot" on the center that holds the heatsink, and the massive weight is pressed heavily on the CPU bottom when the mobo is sit up.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuzer*
> 
> Do you guys find the Hyper 212 method to secure the heatsink is quite unreliable? All i see is just a "dot" on the center that holds the heatsink, and the massive weight is pressed heavily on the CPU bottom when the mobo is sit up.


Just make sure the universal bracket has the mounting screws in the correct position for your socket type.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Maybe you didn't see this....
> http://www.overclock.net/t/632591/cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-club/4590#post_18201283
> It directly compares the H100 to the 212. I was shocked myself. Everyone will get different results depending on testing variables, but it won't differ that much.


with these results i'd be more shocked at their overall testing procedure, because soemthing HAS to be wrong


----------



## Vuzer

I'll tie a thread to the heatsink to lift it up, that should balance the pressure distribution.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> with these results i'd be more shocked at their overall testing procedure, because soemthing HAS to be wrong


That's the thing. It isn't. Now, granted that is with the H100 STOCK. You can add some better fans and achieve slightly better temps. Most people think a basic pre-purchased waterloop is MUCH MORE effective than a top of the line air cooler. And, well... It isn't. You are only going to see drastic changes when you can either 1)Lower ambient temps dramatically and 2) Use phase change / LN2 methods. Sure you may see 5C difference here and there. Maybe even 10C. Some people expect a lot more.


----------



## Elohim

I test coolers myself, and there IS a significant difference between an entry level cooler and a high end one. At a moderate OC it doesnt really come into play too much, but if you really turn on the heat, the differences get pretty significant.

Let me pull up some compeltely random reviews:

http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/henry-butt/cooler-master-tpc-800-cpu-cooler-review/5/
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/%5Bprimary-term%5D/cooler_master_hyper_212_evo_review

in the first one we have a 26°C difference between the H100 and the TPC 800 wich is superiour to the 212
in the second one we have a 20°C diffrence between the 212+ and the Armageddon.
These results seem to be more realistic from my personal experience with dozens of different coolers.

and hey, i'm not trying to talk down on any product here, i hope everyone is happy with their cooler, but to say that there is essentially no difference between a 212 and a H80/SilverArrow/etc just seems wrong to me.


----------



## Alastair

I was just about to agree with you... Maybe stock and mildly overclocked settings like the 4GHz area. But start pushing for 4.5 or 5 and the sort of voltages that come with those clocks and a water cooler should be able to come into it's own!


----------



## Alastair

Unfortunately I have no need for a water cooler on my Phenom because no matter how hard I try it seems my processor hits a wall at 4.26. But I will consider a mid range water set up for a Piledriver FX in six months time or so!


----------



## Elohim

honestly: to get a cheaper cooler like a 212 and maybe not get the highest OC possible is the smart thing to do.
But another reason to get a bigger and more expensive heatpipe based cooler would be the possibility to get better results at lower fan speeds and therefore less noise.

but now BTT, sorry.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah I am also surprised that EVO hasn't worked out for you! It's keeping my Phenom 2 cool and happy at 4.24GHz! Loads at about 55C!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Yea, my FX has been quite a journey. I could never even do a regular OCCT test with temps getting way too hot. If core temps get to 60 or above I get quite uncomfortable. I fixed up some voltages and did manage to get it to a low voltage at a stable 3.8. I can test and it runs hot, but slightly under 60 degree core temps. The CPU itself never had heat issues otherwise, though it stayed between 35-50 degrees. The most intensive thing I did with it was render videos. That'd put it around 55 degrees cpu temp, which isn't bad for a cpu temp.
> I'm quite curious to see if having an H100 will finally let me make more use of my 8120. I want a stable 4.2ghz at least, though I really wanna push it to 4.5 and beyond. We'll see what happens, fingers crossed.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> You might have just recieved a really stubborn chip. Those 1 in a 100 chips that just don't like to overclock!


You guys forgot a really important thing. The Phenom is a quad and the 8120 is an Octo.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> That's the thing. It isn't. Now, granted that is with the H100 STOCK. You can add some better fans and achieve slightly better temps. Most people think a basic pre-purchased waterloop is MUCH MORE effective than a top of the line air cooler. And, well... It isn't. You are only going to see drastic changes when you can either 1)Lower ambient temps dramatically and 2) Use phase change / LN2 methods. Sure you may see 5C difference here and there. Maybe even 10C. Some people expect a lot more.


I disagree on that fan part. The stock fan that comes with the H100 has some AMAZING static pressure numbers, seven mmH2O at full speed.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Guys just a quick question. Is there software similar to MSI's Afterburner that can control the fan speed settings on the motherboard? Cause I have set my Smart Fan settings to aim for 40C but still my fans on the 212 sit at around 70% when at 50C and around 80% when at 55C. By the time I get to that temperature I want to be running at 100% cause Phenoms are the most stable below 55C.


SpeedFan is quite popular. But if you can't control a fan in one program, typically it's not going to in another. A lot of motherboards have one that is controllable and one that is not. Then there are some high end ones that has all and then there are some low end ones where there's none. It should be in the manual.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> I test coolers myself, and there IS a significant difference between an entry level cooler and a high end one. At a moderate OC it doesnt really come into play too much, but if you really turn on the heat, the differences get pretty significant.
> Let me pull up some compeltely random reviews:
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/henry-butt/cooler-master-tpc-800-cpu-cooler-review/5/
> http://www.maximumpc.com/article/%5Bprimary-term%5D/cooler_master_hyper_212_evo_review
> in the first one we have a 26°C difference between the H100 and the TPC 800 wich is superiour to the 212
> in the second one we have a 20°C diffrence between the 212+ and the Armageddon.
> These results seem to be more realistic from my personal experience with dozens of different coolers.
> and hey, i'm not trying to talk down on any product here, i hope everyone is happy with their cooler, but to say that there is essentially no difference between a 212 and a H80/SilverArrow/etc just seems wrong to me.


26C difference? Whatever you say. I can guarantee you I can max out my OC and by a h100 and I wouldn't come close ot getting 26 C differences at load.

HOWEVER: (I Edited), This is with a stock EVO or 212. NOT with a EVO motified with a push/pull setup or a case with added fans.

So everyones mileage will vary pretty significantly depending on setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> You guys forgot a really important thing. The Phenom is a quad and the 8120 is an Octo.


THIS
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I disagree on that fan part. The stock fan that comes with the H100 has some AMAZING static pressure numbers, seven mmH2O at full speed.


I was just saying for reference. There are always better fans.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> 26C difference? Whatever you say. I can guarantee you I can max out my OC and by a h100 and I wouldn't come close ot getting 26 C differences at load.
> .


You missed my point, wich is that the 212 is not on the same level as a Silver Arrow, Phanteks, H100, H80, etc at a high overclock on a hot CPU. They are not even close dude, despite what that one review says.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> You missed my point, wich is that the 212 is not on the same level as a Silver Arrow, Phanteks, H100, H80, etc at a high overclock on a hot CPU. They are not even close dude, despite what that one review says.


I didn't miss your point. And I am sure the H100 will outdo the EVO or 212 ony any occasion or build. But not by what you are claiming or what others may have found.

It's pretty farfetched in my opinion to believe that if I am at 5.0ghz at 100C on my evo 212 that by swapping out with a h100 will bring my 5.0ghz overclock down to 74C. Which is pretty much what you are saying.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> You missed my point, wich is that the 212 is not on the same level as a Silver Arrow, Phanteks, H100, H80, etc at a high overclock on a hot CPU. They are not even close dude, despite what that one review says.


This. I don't know where guy above got the idea that the + or Evo are high end air coolers. All comparisons I saw came down to when you go for a stronger overclock. No air unit could keep up when you start hitting 4.3-5 or higher. Especially on hotter chips, which you don't know, I have a very hot one







If you can hit high overclocks then good for you. I live in a desert, I have a hot chip. It doesn't work out that way for me.

Still not really the point. No one's here to bash on any one unit. If you don't think my temps will be any better, oh well. Don't need to try to defend your toy multiple times.


----------



## Krusher33

Ahem, I'm butting in on the argument. It may be that the difference is quite large if both did a 30 minutes test. But over time the sealed water cooler will get warmer. If they showed how long each of them have tested under load, I'm sure you'll see that the reviews with a huge difference tested in short amount of time and the closer results are ones where they tested for longer.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Ahem, I'm butting in on the argument. It may be that the difference is quite large if both did a 30 minutes test. But over time the sealed water cooler will get warmer. If they showed how long each of them have tested under load, I'm sure you'll see that the reviews with a huge difference tested in short amount of time and the closer results are ones where they tested for longer.


While stress testing with the Evo, it'd baseline a temperature at a certain spot. Though over time still very gradually increase in temperatures. That is any different how?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> This. I don't know where guy above got the idea that the + or Evo are high end air coolers. All comparisons I saw came down to when you go for a stronger overclock. No air unit could keep up when you start hitting 4.3-5 or higher. Especially on hotter chips, which you don't know, I have a very hot one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you can hit high overclocks then good for you. I live in a desert, I have a hot chip. It doesn't work out that way for me.
> Still not really the point. No one's here to bash on any one unit. If you don't think my temps will be any better, oh well. Don't need to try to defend your toy multiple times.


Really?


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Really?


Yes, really. You seem kinda salty there buddy. Are we done now and can we act like men?

Unit should be arriving soon. Will probably have some temps within 3-4 hours.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> I didn't miss your point. And I am sure the H100 will outdo the EVO or 212 ony any occasion or build. But not by what you are claiming or what others may have found.
> It's pretty farfetched in my opinion to believe that if I am at 5.0ghz at 100C on my evo 212 that by swapping out with a h100 will bring my 5.0ghz overclock down to 74C. Which is pretty much what you are saying.


my point was not that particular review or any particular numbers for that matter. my point was: it's even more farfetched to believe that the 212 is on par or even better than an any High End Heatpipe-based Air Cooler, like you suggested by posting that review. There is a reason why people buy bigger and more expensive air coolers and it's not because they like a huge chunk of metal in their case.

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/cooler_master_hyper_212_evo_cpu_cooler_review,11.html

This is a review i highly regard and wich got similar numbers to mine and the difference between the 212 Evo/+ and a High End Air cooling is roughly 10/15°C respectively at a decent OC, i7 [email protected]


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> my point was not that particular review or any particular numbers for that matter. my point was: it's even more farfetched to believe that the 212 is on par or even better than an any High End Heatpipe-based Air Cooler, like you suggested by posting that review. There is a reason why people buy bigger and more expensive air coolers and it's not because they like a huge chunk of metal in their case.
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/cooler_master_hyper_212_evo_cpu_cooler_review,11.html
> This is a review i highly regard and wich got similar numbers to mine and the difference between the 212 Evo/+ and a High End Air cooling is roughly 10/15°C respectively at a decent OC, i7 [email protected]


No where did I say the evo was better. You ASSUMED thats what i meant by me REPOSTING what was posted earlier by another member. And if you look, the reposting confirma that the h100 is better than the evo. So why would I say the opposite? I was just pointing out that guys over clock with the two compared. Thats it. Period.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Yes, really. You seem kinda salty there buddy. Are we done now and can we act like men?
> Unit should be arriving soon. Will probably have some temps within 3-4 hours.


You are the one ridiculing and calling me salty. And you are the one asking if we can act like men? Mmm. Let us know how your new toy works out for you.

All i simply said was dont exPect a huge difference like some people say. Because most likely your mileage will vary. Thats it.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> No where did I say the evo was better. You ASSUMED thats what i meant by me REPOSTING what was posted earlier by another member. And if you look, the reposting confirma that the h100 is better than the evo. So why would I say the opposite? I was just pointing out that guys over clock with the two compared. Thats it. Period.
> You are the one ridiculing and calling me salty. And you are the one asking if we can act like men? Mmm. Let us know how your new toy works out for you.


No one assumed. You've been seen defending the unit multiple times like it's your first born child. Everyone else that has the unit put in their two cents in a respectable manner. You came in saying "You're not going to get any different temps. My unit does this and that. Don't expect any difference" "Here, take a look at these charts. See, it's just as good. It's a high end unit and you won't see any difference"









Now, you have multiple people seeing the same thing. Just say that you came off wrong and we'll move on with our lives, no harm done. We are here for common interest after all


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> No one assumed. You've been seen defending the unit multiple times like it's your first born child. Everyone else that has the unit put in their two cents in a respectable manner. You came in saying "You're not going to get any different temps. My unit does this and that. Don't expect any difference" "Here, take a look at these charts. See, it's just as good. It's a high end unit and you won't see any difference"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, you have multiple people seeing the same thing. Just say that you came off wrong and we'll move on with our lives, no harm done. We are here for common interest after all


Strong paraphrasing there. Get your stuff together before you post. If I said all of that go quote it. See how that works for you. And as far as I am concerned this is the 212 club thread. Not the h100. You were the one that came in here announcing your troubles in the first place. If you can't take constructive criticizism then go find someone else to bug. Im done.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> with these results i'd be more shocked at their overall testing procedure, because soemthing HAS to be wrong


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> That's the thing. It isn't. .


well it is. If they tested a H80 that's _worse_ than the 212, both with stock fans @12V, they either did something wrong or had a faulty unit. No way around it.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Strong paraphrasing there. Get your stuff together before you post. If I said all of that go quote it. See how that works for you. And as far as I am concerned this is the 212 club thread. Not the h100. You were the one that came in here announcing your troubles in the first place. If you can't take constructive criticizism then go find someone else to bug. Im done.


Someone was inquiring about cooling performance after I mentioned I was switching. As far as cooling in general goes, air and water coolers are usually tested together and me posting my results could answer some questions. So me discussing my H100 in this thread is more than valid. Especially considering I OWN an Evo and can compare stats. Your 'constructive criticism' amounted more to being a fanboy. Others presented information regarding liquid cooling and others beating the 212. You say it isn't true without any facts other than a benchmark page you found. While other benchmark pages presented say otherwise. If you can't see that then too bad, glad you're done. See you another time


----------



## Conspiracy

just start a new thread to give your own personal comparison between the 2 that way its easy for people to find and yalls argument will stop cluttering up this thread lol


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> just start a new thread to give your own personal comparison between the 2 that way its easy for people to find and yalls argument will stop cluttering up this thread lol










Apologies everyone. I'll post some more useful things very soon. If the damn mail person would show up already. It's only 2pm and they still haven't been here.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Someone was inquiring about cooling performance after I mentioned I was switching. As far as cooling in general goes, air and water coolers are usually tested together and me posting my results could answer some questions. So me discussing my H100 in this thread is more than valid. Especially considering I OWN an Evo and can compare stats. Your 'constructive criticism' amounted more to being a fanboy. Others presented information regarding liquid cooling and others beating the 212. You say it isn't true without any facts other than a benchmark page you found. While other benchmark pages presented say otherwise. If you can't see that then too bad, glad you're done. See you another time


TL;DR


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> TL;DR


TL:SP
Too lazy: shouldn't post


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> TL:SP
> Too lazy: shouldn't post










lol


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> TL;DR


NR:ID

not really, I did.

now shaddup the both of ya, and let's get back to what this thread is really about.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol


Sorry. I just grow tired of people obviously showing they are incapable of maintaining concentration for more than 5 letters. It is the most wanna be hipster way of saying the post wasn't important enough to warrant actually reading. Well, these are called forums, and words and sentences are what forums are for. If you don't want to give up the time to read it, then just leave.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Sorry. I just grow tired of people obviously showing they are incapable of maintaining concentration for more than 5 letters. It is the most wanna be hipster way of saying the post wasn't important enough to warrant actually reading. Well, these are called forums, and words and sentences are what forums are for. If you don't want to give up the time to read it, then just leave.


totally agree with that. nicely said


----------



## mrtoyotaco

My apologies for the acronym. I just don't appreciate it when people say I said things and fill my mouth with words that I did not say. Anywho... On with the thread...


----------



## Xerosnake90

Starting off, I'm posting this info so that people who are thinking about switching over can get an idea of what to expect. I used the EVO and it wasn't working out for me. Got myself an H100 for cheap and someone asked for some temp comparisons. This is NOT to bash 212, this is for anyone like me who felt their 212 unit isn't working out for them and may be looking elsewhere.

Alright guys here we go. H100 has been installed, it wasn't easy but I managed







For reference I'm using an NZXT Phantom case two 200mm fans up top. One silent fan in the back top running 700rpm, one performance fan in top front running at low speed. It can go up to high speed 1300rpm I believe. I have mounted the radiator underneath said 200mm fans, with two ap-15s pushing the air upwards towards the pull fans. H100 is set to performance mode, level 3. My Evo ran in a push and pull config using the ap-15s. CPU is FX-8120.

*CPU 3.8ghz 1.24 idle to light load. Youtube videos at 1080p, etc.*

*Evo*: Idle temp at at fans full speed 33-37 degrees under light load. Core temps at around 20 degrees each.

*H100*: Idle temp with fans at low speed 31-34 degrees under light load. Core temps at 16 degrees. (Notice that this is at low speed, fan speeds adjust to temps)

*CPU 3.8ghz 1.24v under OCCT stress test. Both tests ran for just 30 minutes.*

*Evo*: CPU temp ranging from 58-63 degrees at full speed each fan. Core temps baseline at around low 50s and rise over time to high 50s, would often raise up and then lower. Thus keeping inbetween max temp and lower temp. At time of recording, 58 degree core temp. CPU temp seemed to stay between 60-63.

*H100*: CPU temp topped out between 52-55 degrees at low speed. Core temps between 36-40 degrees, staying at 37 for the most part. That in my opinion is solid, my system also seems to be decently quieter than before.

*Further testing*: 4.2ghz at 1.32vcore (could probably play around with that voltage a bit... Don't think it needs to be that high for 4.2) 222 bus speed, 19.0 CPU multiplier. 1 hour OCCT test Max CPU temp 61 degrees. Tends to stay around 59. Core max at 48, stays around 44. A 4.5 stable seems unlikely, my chip still is a hot son of a gun. When I get to 1.4+vcore things get a bit too warm at times. I'll play around and see if I can get to 4.3-4 however.

*Edit 1*: So, oopsie







It seems that the fan controller on my H100 doesn't work. No matter what configuration it's at the fans stay at the same speed. Turns out all those temps are with fans running at low speed. Good thing I have this lovely NZXT phantom case (love it) that has a built in fan controller. I decided to disconnect the two side fans from the control and plug in my ap-15s instead. Now I have manual speed. I doubt it'd make a huge difference however next time I stress test I'll have fans set on high. I'm tempted to toss on OCCT and see if there is a difference. We'll see.

Temps are relatively close at idle under 3.8ghz. Under OCCT stress test we can see that while CPU temp stayed a decent 5-10 degrees cooler. Core temps were the big story staying under 40 degrees. That's a 20 degree difference compared to air cooling. And that, my friend, seems to be a pretty good result









For reference again, 3.8ghz is about the best I could manage with the temps I got. The FX series recommends core temps stay under 62 degrees, give or take some room. With my Evo I was barely hovering under that. I'll update with higher OCs and temps to go along with it.


----------



## Elohim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> That's a 20 degree difference compared to air cooling.


better yet "...compared to the 212"









thx for your effort.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elohim*
> 
> better yet "...compared to the 212"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx for your effort.


You are right! Thank you for catching that, once again apologies for cluttering up the pages with senseless arguing. I think the tests speak for themself


----------



## chinesethunda

sorry i was away for the weekend, but yeah stop arguing, anyways I know the 212+ is a great cooler, as much as i love the cooler and the family of coolers, it really can't stand up to a higher end air cooler or water cooler, i personally tested 2 separate rigs with both the 212+ and the H100, the H100 can allow the user to overclock higher and the main thing is, it keeps the MAX load temps down, on a regular basis, doing regular things on a day to day basis, it might not make much of a difference, both will perform equally well, but when you get to a higher OC and a higher load usage, that's when the higher end coolers start to pull their weight.

using personal experience as backup
i have 2 i5s and my watercooling setup and my 212+ had both cooled my chips equally during daily use and even during gaming, average TOAs etc, but when i start doing some heavy cpu usage tasks, my 212+ got really hot, upper 70s while the WC kept it around mid 50s to low 60s.

Anyways, i read through the posts i missed, i don't think anyone needed to be added, but PM me if i missed adding people


----------



## Ramsey77

I am a bit cofused. What is the difference between "core temp" and "cpu temp"? Is this something AMD does differently from Intel?
Xerosnake90, what was the ambient temperature while conducting your tests?


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I am a bit cofused. What is the difference between "core temp" and "cpu temp"? Is this something AMD does differently from Intel?
> Xerosnake90, what was the ambient temperature while conducting your tests?


I'll flip that around and say I don't know about what Intel does with temps. AMD cpus tend to have two reading. CPU temp is measured as a total of the entire unit. Core temps are each individual core. Since I'm on the 8120 and it has '8' cores, each core has seperate temps. It's been debated about which matters, though it seems widely accepted that cpu temp means very little. Core temps are to not exceed 62 degrees each on the FX series.

Not sure what ambient temps were, my room is the hottest in the house.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> I'll flip that around and say I don't know about what Intel does with temps. AMD cpus tend to have two reading. CPU temp is measured as a total of the entire unit. Core temps are each individual core. Since I'm on the 8120 and it has '8' cores, each core has seperate temps. It's been debated about which matters, though it seems widely accepted that cpu temp means very little. Core temps are to not exceed 62 degrees each on the FX series.
> Not sure what ambient temps were, my room is the hottest in the house.


I don't think your core temp is being read right by whatever program is reading it. 16c is only 60F and there is no way that you have sub ambient temps with any type of air cooling, it's just not possible. That is why I asked what your ambient temps were. Something isn't right. Your CPU temps seem to be reading just fine though.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I don't think your core temp is being read right by whatever program is reading it. 16c is only 60F and there is no way that you have sub ambient temps with any type of air cooling, it's just not possible. That is why I asked what your ambient temps were. Something isn't right. Your CPU temps seem to be reading just fine though.


I am kind of wondering the same? With water cooling and air cooling, atleast from what I have read, it is pretty much impossible to get temps of cpu below ambient room temperatures.

If i am wrong, someone please correct me.

Also, where are your pictures man? Testing isn't anything without proof of pictures.


----------



## Elohim

Well, AMD core temps are not the actual temperatures of the chip. That doesn't mean that they aren't consistent though.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I don't think your core temp is being read right by whatever program is reading it. 16c is only 60F and there is no way that you have sub ambient temps with any type of air cooling, it's just not possible. That is why I asked what your ambient temps were. Something isn't right. Your CPU temps seem to be reading just fine though.


You guys do know that the temperature diode in processors get more and more inaccurate as the temperature drops right??


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> I am kind of wondering the same? With water cooling and air cooling, atleast from what I have read, it is pretty much impossible to get temps of cpu below ambient room temperatures.
> If i am wrong, someone please correct me.
> Also, where are your pictures man? Testing isn't anything without proof of pictures.


Why of course









3.8ghz Evo. Stopped the test at 32 minutes, as you can see the temps kept going up. CPU core temps. Fan full speed.



3.8ghz Evo CPU temp. Fan full speed.



3.8ghz H100. I originally had done the test for 30 minutes but the results seem to not have been saved. So here's a quick 10 minute test. From the 4.2 ghz we see there isn't a massive difference in temps as time goes on. CPU core temps. Fan low speed.



3.8ghz H100 CPU temp. Fan low speed



4.2ghz H100 1 hour test CPU temp. Ignore that crazy spike at the end, OCCT is a bit loopy at times and spikes around. Fan low speed



4.2ghz H100 1 hour core temp. Don't need to bother posting the rest, they all look like this! Fan low speed.



Hope that's sufficient! The thing I'm most impressed by is that the H100 was running on low fan speed. Once again I doubt it'd make a HUGE difference in keeping temps down farther than low speed. Still nice to have a quieter system though.


----------



## Layo

Is the 212+ worth getting over like... gelid tranquillo? I have 3570k, not planing to overclock anytime soon, maybe in year or so. I want my cpu fan to be silent and not let the temps go to 65C under load.


----------



## doyll

Why buy one now and than a year from now need a better one to overclock?
A good cooling can be a long term investment.
General rule is bigger is better is cooler is quieter.

Running Phanteks PH-TC14PE on i7 920 @ 3.55GHz. 97-100% load @ 48-52c @ 955-1035rpm. Only sound is very quiet sound of air.









At idle 30c @ 670-700rpm.... Can't hear a thing.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

So CPU temperature is the temp to worry about not core temp correct?

Correct me if I am wrong AMD nerds... Im an Intel geek...









Got this from another board:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



What is "Core Temp" ?

"Core Temp" is what AMD refers to as "TCTL" and is a non-physical temperature on an arbitrary scale measured in degrees. It does not represent an actual physical temperature like die or case temperature.

What is "CPU Temp" ?

"CPU Temp" is read by a sensor in the socket of the motherboard.
It is a physical temperature and therefore will be effected by ambient temps inside the case.

Why should I use "Core Temp" and when?

AMD designed this equation to accurately read peak (45C+) and load temps. It has an equational offset to determine said temps which equalizes at 45C. Since it's designed for peak temps and is a non-physical temperature it cannot read idle temps or account for ambient temps correctly.

So what is "CPU Temp" good for then?

At peak temps this value is typically 7-10C higher (depending on motherboard) than the actual temp due to it being a physical sensor. At idle it's a little more accurate, but still not dead on, and besides idle temps do not matter near as much as load temps do.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> So CPU temperature is the temp to worry about not core temp correct?
> Correct me if I am wrong AMD nerds... Im an Intel geek...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got this from another board:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> What is "Core Temp" ?
> "Core Temp" is what AMD refers to as "TCTL" and is a non-physical temperature on an arbitrary scale measured in degrees. It does not represent an actual physical temperature like die or case temperature.
> What is "CPU Temp" ?
> "CPU Temp" is read by a sensor in the socket of the motherboard.
> It is a physical temperature and therefore will be effected by ambient temps inside the case.
> Why should I use "Core Temp" and when?
> AMD designed this equation to accurately read peak (45C+) and load temps. It has an equational offset to determine said temps which equalizes at 45C. Since it's designed for peak temps and is a non-physical temperature it cannot read idle temps or account for ambient temps correctly.
> So what is "CPU Temp" good for then?
> At peak temps this value is typically 7-10C higher (depending on motherboard) than the actual temp due to it being a physical sensor. At idle it's a little more accurate, but still not dead on, and besides idle temps do not matter near as much as load temps do.


While I have seen many answers, it seems to be general consensus that core temps are what you want to look out for. There are a few more thread out there that explain AMD temps and this and that. As far as I know, I get a warning when my cpu goes above 65 degrees. If performance is hit I'm not sure, however I'm more than happy to keep it under that either way.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> While I have seen many answers, it seems to be general consensus that core temps are what you want to look out for. There are a few more thread out there that explain AMD temps and this and that. As far as I know, I get a warning when my cpu goes above 65 degrees. If performance is hit I'm not sure, however I'm more than happy to keep it under that either way.


Got ya.


----------



## Alastair

Well HW monitor which is what I use to monitor temps only gives me core temps. So I don't really know where else to look for this "other" temp. But because it isn't important I am not to worried.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> While I have seen many answers, it seems to be general consensus that core temps are what you want to look out for. There are a few more thread out there that explain AMD temps and this and that. As far as I know, I get a warning when my cpu goes above 65 degrees. If performance is hit I'm not sure, however I'm more than happy to keep it under that either way.


Also I am curious,

I noticed you posted just "Core #0".

In that program does that represent just 1 core temps out of 8? or Is that all of the cores averaged together?


----------



## stellamonster7

Can I join please? btw, it took me forever to reach a conclusion that this club includes 212 evo now. somewhere on page 289 there was a consensus to let evo owners in. Might want to include that update on the front page unless I just missed it.

I am very satisfied with the evo, no slits between the copper to have to smear TIM into for good contact. I think this is clearly a design improvement. While my push/pull configuration on my i3570K at full load 45x OC with small FFTs on prime95 still reaches 85-90 C, I think that's just Ivy, we know she's a hot lady! I believe in comparison to other similar priced coolers it is well worth it. The extra $5-10 for the evo over the plus is also worth it depending on your regular cpu loads and ambient temps in your room from what I researched.

Frankly I need to re-seat mine b/c I am not happy with my application of TIM (MX-5) and I think I can get full load temps lower. Going to try the two rails of rice grains approach.


each fan in vertical succession is programmed to maintain a higher CFM than the one below it as temps rise.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stellamonster7*
> 
> I think this is clearly a design improvement. While my push/pull configuration on my i3570K at full load 45x OC with small FFTs on prime95 still reaches 85-90 C, I think that's just Ivy, we know she's a hot lady!


Well said sir. I concur.


----------



## Xerosnake90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Also I am curious,
> I noticed you posted just "Core #0".
> In that program does that represent just 1 core temps out of 8? or Is that all of the cores averaged together?


Core 0 is indeed 1 out of 8. It lists it from 0-7. All the core temps were relatively the same, at least within less than a degree difference. So I just posted one of them.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xerosnake90*
> 
> Core 0 is indeed 1 out of 8. It lists it from 0-7. All the core temps were relatively the same, at least within less than a degree difference. So I just posted one of them.


Makes more sense. Really wish AMD would clarify the REAL difference between CPU and core temps. From what i have read.. One focuses on load equated at or above 45C and the other focuses on idle temps.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stellamonster7*
> 
> Can I join please? btw, it took me forever to reach a conclusion that this club includes 212 evo now. somewhere on page 289 there was a consensus to let evo owners in. Might want to include that update on the front page unless I just missed it.


Agreed. The club should be renamed to Hyper 212 and not Hyper 212 Plus.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Agreed. The club should be renamed to Hyper 212 and not Hyper 212 Plus.


GET ON IT CHINESE THUNDAAAA.







haha


----------



## chinesethunda

lol i'll add people as i read what i missed, this is still mostly 212+ members, but i can change it a bit


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> lol i'll add people as i read what i missed, this is still mostly 212+ members, but i can change it a bit


I got accepted with the EVO.


----------



## keesgelder

Hey Gentlemen,

I'm thinking about getting the 212 EVO for my spare rig (see my sig), which is is fully functional rig that I just want to play around with a little bit, giving it a bit of OC. This rig is currently on a stock cooler. Would you gentlemen still consider the 212 EVO to be a good choice these days? Or do you think that there are better alternatives for comparable prices? I don't want to spend too much as it's just my spare rig, but I want it to be as decent as possible. Also, any experience with this cooler and the CM690 case?


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Hey Gentlemen,
> I'm thinking about getting the 212 EVO for my spare rig (see my sig), which is is fully functional rig that I just want to play around with a little bit, giving it a bit of OC. This rig is currently on a stock cooler. Would you gentlemen still consider the 212 EVO to be a good choice these days? Or do you think that there are better alternatives for comparable prices? I don't want to spend too much as it's just my spare rig, but I want it to be as decent as possible. Also, any experience with this cooler and the CM690 case?


IMO dude,

These days the EVo 212 and Hyper 212 are going for (if you can catch it on sale) For 19.99 shipped AFTER MAIL IN REBATES, it is a no brainer. Get it! When comparing cooling to price, it speaks for itself.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> IMO dude,
> These days the EVo 212 and Hyper 212 are going for (if you can catch it on sale) For 19.99 shipped AFTER MAIL IN REBATES, it is a no brainer. Get it! When comparing cooling to price, it speaks for itself.


The best price I can find here in the Netherlands is 28 euros, but still, I consider it to be really cheap.

I guess it's always a bit more expensive here.


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> IMO dude,
> These days the EVo 212 and Hyper 212 are going for (if you can catch it on sale) For 19.99 shipped AFTER MAIL IN REBATES, it is a no brainer. Get it! When comparing cooling to price, it speaks for itself.


yes, second that. look for rebates. I even got mine of all things from some place on ebay for $25 bucks because I was impatient with newegg and other places prices not dropping fast enough for my build timeframe, but you can find it for even cheaper sometimes.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> The best price I can find here in the Netherlands is 28 euros, but still, I consider it to be really cheap.
> I guess it's always a bit more expensive here.


Still not bad. Go with the EVO. Direct continuous heat pipe design FTW.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Still not bad. Go with the EVO. Direct continuous heat pipe design FTW.


Thanks! I'll go for it!

I'll probably have it here by Saturday. I'll share some pics if you like, but I won't put too much effort into cable management and such as it's just my spare rig, so don't expect too much


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Thanks! I'll go for it!
> I'll probably have it here by Saturday. I'll share some pics if you like, but I won't put too much effort into cable management and such as it's just my spare rig, so don't expect too much


Haha. Go ahead bud. You can check out the OP's of this threads 212 testing as well as mine. His is in his sig and mine is my sig.


----------



## chinesethunda

imo, if it's not a serious rig, the evo will be just awesome


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> imo, if it's not a serious rig, the evo will be just awesome


Cant beat the price...


----------



## Conspiracy

i just have to post again how much i am loving 212 EVO









for how much i spent on this sucker it is doing a killer job. i did not have much expectation to drop my full load temps from high 80's down that much but i am hovering around 60 with stock fan in pull configuration while i wait for replacement fans to come in the mail. im getting a surprise box of leftover fans from a friend that are mix match silent fans that are decent performance


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> i just have to post again how much i am loving 212 EVO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for how much i spent on this sucker it is doing a killer job. i did not have much expectation to drop my full load temps from high 80's down that much but i am hovering around 60 with stock fan in pull configuration while i wait for replacement fans to come in the mail. im getting a surprise box of leftover fans from a friend that are mix match silent fans that are decent performance


Tell him to send me some goodies as well.


----------



## Conspiracy

lol im told im getting the leftovers. he was already wiped out of the good stuff.

saves me from wanting to get a twin pack of the corsair SP120 quiet edition and a similar style 140mm for the front as well. not sure if all that together would make a major improvement on performance and noise. but it would improve something over stock lolz but i ultimately want to work my way towards achieving quieter performance for as little money as possible


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> lol im told im getting the leftovers. he was already wiped out of the good stuff.
> saves me from wanting to get a twin pack of the corsair SP120 quiet edition and a similar style 140mm for the front as well. not sure if all that together would make a major improvement on performance and noise. but it would improve something over stock lolz but i ultimately want to work my way towards achieving quieter performance for as little money as possible


True that man.


----------



## Conspiracy

hardest part is not wanting to just go completely overkill for no reason lol. so much fun modifying and making computers lol


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> hardest part is not wanting to just go completely overkill for no reason lol. so much fun modifying and making computers lol


Haha I agree. "Moar FANS!!!"


----------



## Conspiracy

need moar awesome looking fans for my case with no window haha


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> need moar awesome looking fans for my case with no window haha


I want Blue LEDS EVERYWHEREEE


----------



## Conspiracy

hmm i concur. blue is a good color


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Hey Gentlemen,
> I'm thinking about getting the 212 EVO for my spare rig (see my sig), which is is fully functional rig that I just want to play around with a little bit, giving it a bit of OC. This rig is currently on a stock cooler. Would you gentlemen still consider the 212 EVO to be a good choice these days? Or do you think that there are better alternatives for comparable prices? I don't want to spend too much as it's just my spare rig, but I want it to be as decent as possible. Also, any experience with this cooler and the CM690 case?


Well unless you can have a promo on something else this is really the BEST you can get for the money.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

I think he bought it alrready lol


----------



## Remix65

i have a temporary cpu cooler right now. i have this memory. would it work with this heatsink...





http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147154


----------



## Conspiracy

in that setup just compare the width of the 212 versus the heatsink you currently have. worst case you might have to change the orientation of the 212 and put the fan on the side opposite of your ram to pull air through if you have clearance issues while trying to install the fan


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> need moar awesome looking fans for my case with no window haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want Blue LEDS EVERYWHEREEE
Click to expand...

I think I beat you too it!


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I think I beat you too it!


PICS lol


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> PICS lol


Just go look at his rig.


----------



## Conspiracy

needs moar blue LEDs


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> needs moar blue LEDs


You can always have MOAR BLUENESS


----------



## Conspiracy

hmm i think im interested in trying to put a blue light behind my mobo tray so it glows from behind and stuff and like coolness


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> hmm i think im interested in trying to put a blue light behind my mobo tray so it glows from behind and stuff and like coolness


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992011


----------



## Conspiracy

omg do want


----------



## chinesethunda

lol speaking of wanting more fans, every time i see newegg having 20% off fans I always want to buy more. tbh i just want a pair of the cougar fans to see what they are all about, but i always tell myself to not buy more cuz i already have 25 ish laying around not being used, from gt ap15s, to corsair ap 120 series, to yate loons and 2500rpm sickleflows, too bad i don't have use for them atm


----------



## Conspiracy

it seems like i get an email every morning from newegg saying "hey you need better fans" because it knows i looked at fans

so tempting to just buy more than i need


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> lol speaking of wanting more fans, every time i see newegg having 20% off fans I always want to buy more. tbh i just want a pair of the cougar fans to see what they are all about, but i always tell myself to not buy more cuz i already have 25 ish laying around not being used, from gt ap15s, to corsair ap 120 series, to yate loons and 2500rpm sickleflows, too bad i don't have use for them atm


Sell me something...


----------



## Haruspex

I read this guide on how to apply thermal paste on HDT coolers like the 212+. The only thing i don't understand is if you apply the paste on the heatsink using the instructions on that guide do i still need to apply thermal paste on the CPU itself? And if so with what method?

I will use mx-2 on q9400.


----------



## Remix65

i've been looking to get a new cpu that will take me to the next build. i've thought long and hard about this cooler but after watching this video



i've come to the conclusion that, since i don't overclock, i just want something that looks nice more than "perforrmance".


----------



## easytim

Will the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ work with an AMD 939?

- CPU: AMD Socket 939 Athlon64 X2 Dual Core 4400+ Processor - MB: ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe


----------



## Alastair

You want pics of blue LED goodness? Here you go!

Front of GHOST. 120mm fans. They look a little dim but I took this pic on a very bright morning and looking through the filters.


Top 140mm exahaust fans. BLUE!


200mm Side panel fan. BLUE


Inside. BLUE LED's to indicate motherboard phase usage.


Bottom 120mm intake.



Blue LED mouse and keyboard. Want MOAR?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> You want pics of blue LED goodness? Here you go!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front of GHOST. 120mm fans. They look a little dim but I took this pic on a very bright morning and looking through the filters.
> 
> Top 140mm exahaust fans. BLUE!
> 
> 200mm Side panel fan. BLUE
> 
> Inside. BLUE LED's to indicate motherboard phase usage.
> 
> Bottom 120mm intake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue LED mouse and keyboard. Want MOAR?


I have that same keyboard. Talk about LED lights that give you eye cancer from being so bright!

I just noticed yours has backlit keys, so it is not an Arctosa, but a Lycosa.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> You want pics of blue LED goodness? Here you go!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front of GHOST. 120mm fans. They look a little dim but I took this pic on a very bright morning and looking through the filters.
> 
> Top 140mm exahaust fans. BLUE!
> 
> 200mm Side panel fan. BLUE
> 
> Inside. BLUE LED's to indicate motherboard phase usage.
> 
> Bottom 120mm intake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blue LED mouse and keyboard. Want MOAR?
> 
> 
> 
> I have that same keyboard. Talk about LED lights that give you eye cancer from being so bright!
> 
> I just noticed yours has backlit keys, so it is not an Arctosa, but a Lycosa.
Click to expand...

Yeah its a lycrosa. I know this isn't the thread for it but seeming although we are in the subject where can one get spare keys for the lycrosa? Im starting to wear through the WASD and other oftenly used keys.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Want MOAR?


YAH! you need MOAR BLUE LOLOLOL

looks pretty awesome


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Yeah its a lycosa. I know this isn't the thread for it but seeming although we are in the subject where can one get spare keys for the lycosa? Im starting to wear through the WASD and other often-used keys.


Fixed


----------



## Scorpion49

Hey guys, just bought a Hyper 212 Evo yesterday for a 3570k rig, and I have to say I'm not impressed at all. I had a few questions about it, first is it supposed to be loose enough to twist on the CPU even when it is all the way tightened down? Is there any way to make it tighter? My temps are abysmal with it even at stock clocks, loading to 100*C easily. I already had to replace the fan after the first startup because it was hitting its own bracket and couldn't even spin.

I read through the manual a few times and didn't see anything about making it tighter, and I remounted it twice just to make sure. The base is perfectly flat though.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Hey guys, just bought a Hyper 212 Evo yesterday for a 3570k rig, and I have to say I'm not impressed at all. I had a few questions about it, first is it supposed to be loose enough to twist on the CPU even when it is all the way tightened down? Is there any way to make it tighter? My temps are abysmal with it even at stock clocks, loading to 100*C easily. I already had to replace the fan after the first startup because it was hitting its own bracket and couldn't even spin.
> I read through the manual a few times and didn't see anything about making it tighter, and I remounted it twice just to make sure. The base is perfectly flat though.


I am quite sure that you did not install the cooler correctly. You should NOT be able to turn it while it is installed!

Here's what might have gone wrong (I just installed this cooler today so its fresh in my mind): when you put the bracket on the cooler (not the backplate but the bracket on the side of the processor, with the screws on it), it should click into place thanks to a little pin. Then, when you secure the cooler with screws, this pin should make sure that the cooler is hold tightly in place (and doesn't turn). What you might have done is put the bracket on the wrong way, so that it did not snap into place.

Be very careful if you continue to use the computer in this state. Having improper cooling can in fact wreck your computer.

Good luck, and please note that I might also be completely off.

Edit: it is not a very clear picture, but is is indeed shown in the picture in the users manual, step 4 (for Intel sockets). They call it the 'retention plate', and the picture also shows the pin I was talking about. Also, I believe that when you turn this bracket 90 degrees with respect to the cooler, you should still be able to screw it down, but the pin does NOT snap into place in this case. This might be what has gone wrong in your case.

I will be reporting my pics and first impressions shortly.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Before I ask, I must say this "No question is dumb when things don't work".

Did you remove the sticker from teh bottom of your cooler? The little clear sticker that says to remove before putting it in your system.


----------



## Scorpion49

I removed the sticker









And the pin was in place, it was tight but I could still spin the cooler left and right when tightened all the way. The center pin was in the hole and the guide pin was in the notch, not sure how else it could possibly go.


----------



## hellaz

should i worry about the hyper 212 evo dual fan on hanging position since if you have a case in standing position the only thing holding it in place is the motherboard. im curious if i should put additional support to lessen the weight taken by my mobo.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellaz*
> 
> should i worry about the hyper 212 evo dual fan on hanging position since if you have a case in standing position the only thing holding it in place is the motherboard. im curious if i should put additional support to lessen the weight taken by my mobo.


People are using heat sinks more than twice the weight and are having absolutely no problems at all. People should stop worrying about these things. If there's something wrong with the product they shouldn't even release it.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I removed the sticker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the pin was in place, it was tight but I could still spin the cooler left and right when tightened all the way. The center pin was in the hole and the guide pin was in the notch, not sure how else it could possibly go.


The 212 DOES have a little give when it is tightened down all the way. I mean a little though. You should not be able to turn it a lot. But, could it shift a millimeter or two? Sure. Mine does. Also, make sure the FAN WIRE is clear of the blade and make sure the 4 black plastic pads are covering the screw holes when mounting the fan on the cooler.


----------



## Conspiracy

though i would share this. saw it in a thread today. this was a response to the OP of the thread asking about how to remove the top fin in order to paint it a different color

http://www.overclock.net/t/1091063/removing-heatsink-fin#post_14567592


----------



## keesgelder

Hello gentlemen,

As promised, here are some pics of my spare rig with the new cooler installed.

First of all, a picture I took while building. I had to take the whole mobo out because the the CM690 does not have a CPU cutout. Ah well, I like doing these kinds of things so it wasn't so much a bad thing











Now here's the cooler installed in the rig:



A little overview picture here. Yup, all of this runs on a cheap 620W CoolerMaster PSU. This PSU continues to surprise me, while I've never really heard great stories about CM PSU's. Also, 1x 6 pin PCI to 2x 6 pin PCI converter cables FTW







. People really don't need as much power as they think, but on the other hand I feel like I'm getting close to the boundary.



A better overview of the PC. I was able to do some fairly decent cable management in the end, but the CM690 is a far from ideal case in this respect. Also, this is not the second revision of the case, and this one is still ugly gray on the inside. Anyway, I guess I'm spoiled by my Corsair 600T for my main rig. This case has served me well and still does to this day.



Just another pic:



Here's a pic from the outside of the case. I like how you can see the cooler through the fan mesh on the side panel.



Up close from the outside:



OK, so now some initial impressions:

This cooler has been very satisfying thus far. I gave my trusty old i5-750 a 3.5GHz overclock to start with (2.66 is default), and it is working out great. Idling at about 31 degrees Celsius (only slightly more than without overclock, which was about 29-30 degrees), and during my stress test I did not go above 77 degrees. This stress test was about an hour of prime95 (no errors). Basically, I think these results are pretty decent to start with.

Installation was also quite straightforward In my opinion. I've heard installation ease is not where this cooler shines, but I didn't have any problems with it. Hardest part was aligning the retention bracket with the screw holes while positioning the cooler on top of the CPU.

Little side story: I was busy putting some OC on my i5-750 when my computer shut of completely. I thought: damn what did I do. Turns out someone in the house created a short circuit which resulted in the power going down









Now comes the time of optimizing and going as far as I can. We'll see how this cooler holds up then









edit: by the way, I used Arctic Silver 5 which I still had left instead of the TIM that comes with the cooler.


----------



## chinesethunda

my 212+ actually moved quite a lot when it was super tight, probably a good half inch turn total.
geesgelder, added you, looks nice


----------



## Conspiracy

just ordered a corsair SP120 quiet edition for my 212 evo to be used as a push fan and also ordered a corsair AF120 quiet edition as my rear exhaust







cant wait to swap these fans out for something quieter and giver or take maybe a little better at least in the noise department


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> just ordered a corsair SP120 quiet edition for my 212 evo to be used as a push fan and also ordered a corsair AF120 quiet edition as my rear exhaust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cant wait to swap these fans out for something quieter and giver or take maybe a little better at least in the noise department


Good luck! 

Also, I did a prime and IBT run this morning with this cold weather....

Average TOA went down 4.75C from previous best.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> geesgelder, added you, looks nice


Thank you! Tiny detail though: it's 'keesgelder', not 'geesgelder'


----------



## Vuzer

I find that odd Evo comes with cfm looking fan then SP type. I'm thinking to switch to SP120 as well..


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Good luck!
> Also, I did a prime and IBT run this morning with this cold weather....
> Average TOA went down 4.75C from previous best.


What is IBT? Is that something better to run instead of prime95 or is that one of the options like running a blend test?

I want to try and contribute but have never done something like this before to present data to show these corsair fans compared to the stock fan


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> What is IBT? Is that something better to run instead of prime95 or is that one of the options like running a blend test?
> I want to try and contribute but have never done something like this before to present data to show these corsair fans compared to the stock fan


IntelBurnTest is a test that was designed by Intel for maximum heat, not really the best best stress test though. Good for comparing coolers, but not so much for finding if your OC is stable.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> IntelBurnTest is a test that was designed by Intel for maximum heat, not really the best best stress test though. Good for comparing coolers, but not so much for finding if your OC are stable.


What he said.

It is really good for testing max temps and quick stability. It can be a real help when trying to OC. It can tell you within about 15 seconds if its stable or not. If you pass and you are happy, you can then run prime.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> What he said.
> It is really good for testing max temps and quick stability. It can be a real help when trying to OC. It can tell you within about 15 seconds if its stable or not. If you pass and you are happy, you can then run prime.


I'm not sure it is that good for stress testing, actually. I pass IBT with really bad OC, but Prime or [email protected] find the instability. Really, IBT seems to test your cooling...


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> I'm not sure it is that good for stress testing, actually. I pass IBT with really bad OC, but Prime or [email protected] find the instability. Really, IBT seems to test your cooling...


I don't think so...

It has many good uses. It isn't as through as prime in any fashion, I will give you that. But IBT can tell me if my OC is unstable within 15 seconds where as prime could take 20 minutes.

I use IBT when OCing and recommend it because it is very quick to find instability. After you set your ratio and vcore, if you boot into windows.. Run IBT. If you pass and dont cross TJ max and you are happy, prime test for long term stability. If you do not pass, either increase vcore or reduce clock.

To each his own...


----------



## Conspiracy

Well i will go back and do IBT for my comparison between sp120 and stock


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Well i will go back and do IBT for my comparison between sp120 and stock


----------



## Scorpion49

So I did figure out what was causing my Evo to be too loose, the bracket was bent so it was allowing one side to slide a lot more. I looked at it carefully compared to pictures and two of the "legs" are bent up somewhat so it was wiggly even when tightened all the way.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So I did figure out what was causing my Evo to be too loose, the bracket was bent so it was allowing one side to slide a lot more. I looked at it carefully compared to pictures and two of the "legs" are bent up somewhat so it was wiggly even when tightened all the way.


Glad you found the problem.


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Thank you! Tiny detail though: it's 'keesgelder', not 'geesgelder'


fixed, sorry
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuzer*
> 
> I find that odd Evo comes with cfm looking fan then SP type. I'm thinking to switch to SP120 as well..


they are pretty good fans, I still haven't personally used them yet though lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So I did figure out what was causing my Evo to be too loose, the bracket was bent so it was allowing one side to slide a lot more. I looked at it carefully compared to pictures and two of the "legs" are bent up somewhat so it was wiggly even when tightened all the way.


glad you found the problem!

Also I never really bothered with IBT, I just kinda let prime run for 15-20 mins when I do temp tests because a few minutes, let alone a few seconds in my opinion isn't long enough for temps both inside and outside of the computer to settle to a even temperature. That's just my thought anyways, I can start p95, watch an episode of whatever, come back and record results. and then continue with testing, while letting my room cool to a lower ambient if I feel like it

Also I am trying to think of how I'm going to test my T4, I have a bunch of 120mm fans and to mount them I could just ziptie screw them since I don't have 2 sets of mounts for it. But the problem is, the T4 is wider than the 212+, it can actually fit a 140mm fan easily, if not the 180mm fan lol


----------



## mrtoyotaco

IBT AND PRIME FTW.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuzer*
> 
> I'm thinking to switch to SP120 as well..


my fans should be here tomorrow according to newegg and UPS. so once i get out of class i can put up some rough test comparisons to show if there is any increased performance.

my comparison test will not be extremely professional or anything since my current setup is stock 212 EVO fan but in pull configuration due to tall ram and i was too lazy to switch it back over after moving my ram to make it fit. and this new test will be with the SP120 in the normal push configuration and will also be accompanied by an AF120 for the exhaust. so i will probably switch out the exhaust fans after the test is over to at least keep something consistent lolz


----------



## Alastair

I have two blademaster xtra flows on my 212. How is it that the one that came with my 212(intake) manages to do the same RPM @ 50% compared to the second when at 70%. The second fan was bought seperately.


----------



## Conspiracy

just tested out new fan and did a short not very scientific comparison for basic reference. new fan is Corsair SP120 quiet edition

This is with stock 212 fan at Idle and prime95 blend:







New Corsair SP120 at idle and prime95 blend:







Overall, i would have to say that pretty cool to get like one or two degree cooler on average the best part is this fan is super quiet so now my computer is barely louder than a soft whisper while sitting 2 feet away from it. computer also sits on top of my desk at head level.


----------



## chinesethunda

tbh those 2 tests don't mean much at all. do a quick prim95 test and put it under load and then compare them. the blademaster might still outperform the sp120 because it's at a higher rpm iirc
actually im almost certain that the blademaster will outperform it. so do a quick p95 run if you can


----------



## mrtoyotaco

I would put the old 212 fan as the rear exhaust. I am coming to the conclusion that a strong rear exhaust fan with a grille is a lot more helpful than just putting the fan in the pull position.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> tbh those 2 tests don't mean much at all. do a quick prim95 test and put it under load and then compare them. the blademaster might still outperform the sp120 because it's at a higher rpm iirc
> actually im almost certain that the blademaster will outperform it. so do a quick p95 run if you can


Is blademaster the stock fan?

I did prime95 test for both look at the images


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Is blademaster the stock fan?
> I did prime95 test for both look at the images


The 212+ stock fan is the Blade Master 120 (R4-BMBS-20PK-R0).

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6622

The american 212 Evo stock fan is the XtraFlo 120 (R4-XFBS-20PK-R1).

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6754

The Blade Master has higher static pressure than the XtraFlo.
So, they made a better heatsink but also downgraded the fan at the same time.

The EU 212 Evo stock fan has less rpm and lower static pressure than the american 212 Evo stock fan.

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6741


----------



## Conspiracy

well im happy with the results from installing SP120 on 212EVO and AF120 as rear exhaust. my computer is considerably quieter and therefore less annoying and is only running at most like 2 degrees warmer than using the stock 212EVO fan


----------



## Vuzer

Wow, i was expecting cooler result. What about sealing both sides of the heatsink with seal tapes, to insure the air is push through the fins out from another end instead getting air leaked on the sides? I plan to do that my own, just need to wait for the counterpart to arrive. Just so you know my Evo's retention thing is kinda broken out from the box.


----------



## Conspiracy

thanks for that suggestion ill give it a try. is seal tape something special? or do you just mean tape to seal the sides? not sure if any tape will do


----------



## Vuzer

Actually duct tape works best imo if you have any. During my first try to use the Evo i noticed the air didn't get through the fin on another end, then i found out it was leaked from both side of the heatsink, then that idea came in.


----------



## Conspiracy

awesome! i will be doing that this weekend. cant find any tape right now


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> awesome! i will be doing that this weekend. cant find any tape right now


Post the results. I am interested in how this turns out.


----------



## Conspiracy

will do







going to get silver tape so its less noticeable i hope


----------



## chinesethunda

guys, sealing the sides has already been tried, didn't do anything, there was no noticeable temp difference. just letting you know to save you time


----------



## Vuzer

But hey is SP120 on the test here, with its massive push power could do something then the stock fan


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuzer*
> 
> But hey is SP120 on the test here, with its massive push power could do something then the stock fan


The Blade Master (stock fan of the Plus) has a maximum static pressure of 3.9mm-H2O. The highest end version of the XtraFlo has maximum static pressure of 3.3mm-H2O. Now I'm not sure which version of the XtraFlo is the stock fan for the Evo but if it's the highest end version then both stock fans have higher push power than the SP120 High Performance Edition which has a maximum static pressure of 3.1mm-H2O.


----------



## Fantaisie

I have an i7 2600k overclocked to 3.9Ghz and I get ~80C during load. Is this a bad mount or does it about right?


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantaisie*
> 
> I have an i7 2600k overclocked to 3.9Ghz and I get ~80C during load. Is this a bad mount or does it about right?


i would say a bad mount at that OC and temp. i suggest reseating your cooler.. i am in the low 70's @ 4.5 in P95 so that is definitely not normal


----------



## Fantaisie

Hmm, I'm not sure what the issue is. What is the best way to apply the thermal paste? Should I put any on the cooler first?


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fantaisie*
> 
> Hmm, I'm not sure what the issue is. What is the best way to apply the thermal paste? Should I put any on the cooler first?


i just used the rice grain method on the CPU and let the cooler spread it.. mind you it took me a couple of go's myself lol.. there are some different methods people do as well like the line method


----------



## Vuzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The Blade Master (stock fan of the Plus) has a maximum static pressure of 3.9mm-H2O. The highest end version of the XtraFlo has maximum static pressure of 3.3mm-H2O. Now I'm not sure which version of the XtraFlo is the stock fan for the Evo but if it's the highest end version then both stock fans have higher push power than the SP120 High Performance Edition which has a maximum static pressure of 3.1mm-H2O.


The Evo's stock fan is the black XtraFlo, on the box package mention it has only 2.7mmH2O max, the same info on CM site.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuzer*
> 
> The Evo's stock fan is the black XtraFlo, on the box package mention it has only 2.7mmH2O max, the same info on CM site.


My bad then. But you can always buy the Blade Master which has a beastly static pressure and according to specifications quieter. Now noise is all very subjective so I can't comment on that but I can tell you that my dual Blade Masters are so quiet that I can barely hear them even on the turbo fan profile of Asus motherboards. They rarely revs up either ways because my processor just stays so cool.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vuzer*
> 
> But hey is SP120 on the test here, with its massive push power could do something then the stock fan


the stock fan that comes with the 212 EVO is a better fan, faster rpm, cfm, and mmh2o compared to the SP120. but from my observation using the SP120 has only made a difference of about 2 degrees warmer. so if you are willing to sacrifice a little temp for no noise then its worth it. but if you are doing a heavy duty OC and every degree matters then the SP120 quiet edition might not be for you, but that doesnt mean that the SP120 performance edition wont work. would have to test it out since noone else has that i have seen









new look with both fans. looks awesome and sounds awesome. well it doesnt sounds awesome because theres no sound


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Not to be a stickler or anything,

But just because ONE person tested something and it DIDNT change anything for them, doesn't mean it won't have an affect on someone else's setup and rig.

That is why I always suggest testing multiple smart approaches on your setup.

Just because my DELTA push / CM rear exhuast combo works for me, doesn't mean it will work for you.


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> I don't think so...
> It has many good uses. It isn't as through as prime in any fashion, I will give you that. But IBT can tell me if my OC is unstable within 15 seconds where as prime could take 20 minutes.
> I use IBT when OCing and recommend it because it is very quick to find instability. After you set your ratio and vcore, if you boot into windows.. Run IBT. If you pass and dont cross TJ max and you are happy, prime test for long term stability. If you do not pass, either increase vcore or reduce clock.
> To each his own...


This is a few pages ago, but whatever, I am a slow reader some days.







I need to steal this from you (but credit you of course) and suggest it added to swag's OC guide when initially seeking a Vcore prior to offset tweaking. time is precious when working on your OC. nice concise way to describe. yes, it's an opinion, but I like it much and think it will work in any case to quickly establish an OC starting point!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stellamonster7*
> 
> This is a few pages ago, but whatever, I am a slow reader some days.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to steal this from you (but credit you of course) and suggest it added to swag's OC guide when initially seeking a Vcore prior to offset tweaking. time is precious when working on your OC. nice concise way to describe. yes, it's an opinion, but I like it much and think it will work in any case to quickly establish an OC starting point!


Agreed. IBT does stress your CPU more than others. Like I said though, to each his own method. I used this method yesterday getting mine to 4.8ghz in literally under 30 minutes.


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Agreed. IBT does stress your CPU more than others. Like I said though, to each his own method. I used this method yesterday getting mine to 4.8ghz in literally under 30 minutes.


see that's nice, but I just read sorting through some other threads that swag doesn't like IBT, so he won't want to add that to the guide. we'll it's not a secret, people can use it if they want


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stellamonster7*
> 
> see that's nice, but I just read sorting through some other threads that swag doesn't like IBT, so he won't want to add that to the guide. we'll it's not a secret, people can use it if they want


Alot of people don't like it because they say it isn't a good stability tester. I would agree. LONG TERM STABILITY no... SHORT TERM? Definitely.

Its just a personal preference. Nothing more.


----------



## stubass

IBT runs hotter so it is good to see your max temps before running P95 blend which temps are slightly cooler


----------



## Conspiracy

kinda curious but what if i added a top mounted fan as an exhaust on the back top. would that interfere with rear exhaust and cancel it out or would it help even more with getting heat out of the case? i ask because that would put 3 fans rather close together in the top back of the case

my current rear exhaust is the AF120 quiet edition

i have a scythe S-Flex SFF12E which has similar specs to the AF120


----------



## mickemys

Kinda new here and after reading 50pages i got lazy. What kind of stock temps does you guys with 3770k have with 212+ or EVO? Im running 75-80 with mine and it feels abit iffy. Have 5fans in the case and the idle temp is about 28-33 so its not the fans.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickemys*
> 
> Kinda new here and after reading 50pages i got lazy. What kind of stock temps does you guys with 3770k have with 212+ or EVO? Im running 75-80 with mine and it feels abit iffy. Have 5fans in the case and the idle temp is about 28-33 so its not the fans.


Whats your OC and vcore?


----------



## Vuzer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*


*Looking at that big gap between the fins and fan..*


----------



## Conspiracy

you mean between the fan and the heatsink itself? not much that can be done there. that gap is from the clips and those rubber things


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickemys*
> 
> Kinda new here and after reading 50pages i got lazy. What kind of stock temps does you guys with 3770k have with 212+ or EVO? Im running 75-80 with mine and it feels abit iffy. Have 5fans in the case and the idle temp is about 28-33 so its not the fans.


I'm using this cooler (EVO) with an i5-750. Completely different processor, I know, but still, just so you know:

At stock speeds my CPU is idling at around 30-31 degrees. Max load temp is about 50 degrees (but generally 48-49) in prime95.

At a halfway decent OC (3.5GHz, this processor can't easily handle more than 4GHz), I'm still idling at around 30-31 but my load temps rise up to around 77 degrees in prime95.

Also, just so you know, I'm not using the TIM that came with the cooler. Instead, I use Arctic Silver 5 which felt better to me as it has proven to be a very decent TIM.

My thought is that 75-80 _at stock speeds_ is way too hot, even for your processor. These kinds of temps wouldn't even allow you to get some decent OC action going on. In comparison, for example this review shows around 55 degrees at stock speeds which sounds more reasonable (it's a different cooler but still). If I were you I would start over and reseat the cooler.

Personally I wasn't completely satisfied with the way I put my cooler on (I had to fiddle around a little in order to get it in the exact position I wanted, while I like it much better when it just drops down perfectly), but my temps seem to be OK.


----------



## mickemys

The 75-80 degrees temps and my question is regarding stock. My vcore is 1.176-1.212 depending on if i have memories set to 1333 or 1600. So no OC at all.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickemys*
> 
> The 75-80 degrees temps and my question is regarding stock. My vcore is 1.176-1.212 depending on if i have memories set to 1333 or 1600. So no OC at all.


if thats your temps stock intel heatsink with no OC, and your computer is under full cpu usage then that sounds normal. those are the temps i was getting with stock intel heatsink on my computer before i got 212 EVO


----------



## mickemys

Thats with an EVO at max rpm and 19celius room temp all case fans maxed.
Its a Fractal design mini so abit small for being a "pro" oc case. But its windy in there so dont see the temps being normal.


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickemys*
> 
> Thats with an EVO at max rpm and 19celius room temp all case fans maxed.
> Its a Fractal design mini so abit small for being a "pro" oc case. But its windy in there so dont see the temps being normal.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> My thought is that 75-80 _at stock speeds_ is way too hot, even for your processor. These kinds of temps wouldn't even allow you to get some decent OC action going on. In comparison, for example this review shows around 55 degrees at stock speeds which sounds more reasonable (it's a different cooler but still). If I were you I would start over and reseat the cooler.


Really, these kinds of temps are way too high for this cooler.


----------



## mickemys

Yeah from what ive read EVO aint the best cooler, best for the cost prolly tho. But ive never seen a review where another air cooler beat the evo with 25 degrees. Then i would never ever bought one.
Dont know how these coolers work but should u feel on the heatsink when the cpu is 80 degrees? cause i sure as hell dont.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickemys*
> 
> Kinda new here and after reading 50pages i got lazy. What kind of stock temps does you guys with 3770k have with 212+ or EVO? Im running 75-80 with mine and it feels abit iffy. Have 5fans in the case and the idle temp is about 28-33 so its not the fans.


I'm using the 212+ dual fan with an Core I5 3550, so not oc.

My idle temps is idling around 28C-32C with fans at 600rpm.
Max load temp is about 50C-53C in Prime95 with fans around 700rpm-850rpm.

So I agree that 75C-80C seems too high for the Core I5 3770K without oc.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickemys*
> 
> Yeah from what ive read EVO aint the best cooler, best for the cost prolly tho. But ive never seen a review where another air cooler beat the evo with 25 degrees. Then i would never ever bought one.
> Dont know how these coolers work but should u feel on the heatsink when the cpu is 80 degrees? cause i sure as hell dont.


Please reseat the cooler.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Please reseat the cooler.


+1


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Looking through all these different fans, a thought just occured to me. Most (if not all) of these measurements are happening in open air. If someone were to measure max CFM with minimum pressure/minimum CFM with maximum pressure, we'd have a great little resource to use.

on a semi-related note, I finally found a source for some ridiculously powerful fans to try out. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Technologies/Product.aspx?ProductID=V12E12BHB501NIDEC5012394&IM=0


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> Looking through all these different fans, a thought just occured to me. Most (if not all) of these measurements are happening in open air. If someone were to measure max CFM with minimum pressure/minimum CFM with maximum pressure, we'd have a great little resource to use.
> on a semi-related note, I finally found a source for some ridiculously powerful fans to try out. http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/Technologies/Product.aspx?ProductID=V12E12BHB501NIDEC5012394&IM=0


Everything would change then wouldn't it?


----------



## chatterbox272

Once I get around to making myself a PWM splitter so I can use both my new Xtraflo fans, I'll take some pics then I want in








Also, is it odd that in replacing my stock Blademaster with an Xtraflo I've dropped ~8C of my load temps? I wasn't expecting any real improvements (got them just for the looks) but now I can't wait until I get the pull fan on.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chatterbox272*
> 
> Once I get around to making myself a PWM splitter so I can use both my new Xtraflo fans, I'll take some pics then I want in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is it odd that in replacing my stock Blademaster with an Xtraflo I've dropped ~8C of my load temps? I wasn't expecting any real improvements (got them just for the looks) but now I can't wait until I get the pull fan on.


Is your Xtraflo one of these?

XtraFlo 120 Red LED
XtraFlo 120 Blue LED
XtraFlo 120
XtraFlo 120 Slim

http://www.coolermaster.com/category.php?category_id=3583

The Evo stock fan (american version) is the Xtraflo 120 (non led and not slim).
Be carefull if using the Red LED fan and the 2 fans x 1 single header splitter cable.

Current (Ampere) 0.45A (0.7A MAX)

Usually the CPU Fan header can't exceed 1A (12W).


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Is your Xtraflo one of these?
> XtraFlo 120 Red LED
> XtraFlo 120 Blue LED
> XtraFlo 120
> XtraFlo 120 Slim
> http://www.coolermaster.com/category.php?category_id=3583
> The Evo stock fan (american version) is the Xtraflo 120 (non led and not slim).
> Be carefull if using the Red LED fan and the 2 fans x 1 single header splitter cable.
> Current (Ampere) 0.45A (0.7A MAX)
> Usually the CPU Fan header can't exceed 1A (12W).


I would take the 1A CPU fan header with a grain of salt. It's like Intel telling us don't push your chips vcore past x mark. But everyone does. Ive seen multiple people run 3 fans from one header without problems. I don't see two fans being an issue. Its a good thing to note however. Its just another one of those safe recommendations.


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> I would take the 1A CPU fan header with a grain of salt. It's like Intel telling us don't push your chips vcore past x mark. But everyone does. Ive seen multiple people run 3 fans from one header without problems. I don't see two fans being an issue. Its a good thing to note however. Its just another one of those safe recommendations.


agreed, it's the board pushing the power to the fans. I doubt it's going to harm the board...all you might get is ineffective fans if the attempted split has a weak spot in the work.


----------



## edsai

Well, according to the M4A87TD-USB3 manual the CPU_FAN connector supports the CPU fan of maximum 2A (24 W) fan power.
So, no problem to hook 2 fans in the CPU_FAN.

My board is the Asus P8Z77-V LX and the CPU_FAN connector supports of maximum 1A (12W) fan power.


----------



## chatterbox272

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Is your Xtraflo one of these?
> XtraFlo 120 Red LED
> XtraFlo 120 Blue LED
> XtraFlo 120
> XtraFlo 120 Slim
> http://www.coolermaster.com/category.php?category_id=3583
> The Evo stock fan (american version) is the Xtraflo 120 (non led and not slim).
> Be carefull if using the Red LED fan and the 2 fans x 1 single header splitter cable.
> Current (Ampere) 0.45A (0.7A MAX)
> Usually the CPU Fan header can't exceed 1A (12W).


It is, the red LED one. That's weird then, why would I be getting so much better temps if it's the same fan with LEDs. And I was planning on drawing power from a Molex plug anyway, and just running the PWM and one of the Speed signals from the header.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chatterbox272*
> 
> Once I get around to making myself a PWM splitter so I can use both my new Xtraflo fans, I'll take some pics then I want in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is it odd that in replacing my stock Blademaster with an Xtraflo I've dropped ~8C of my load temps? I wasn't expecting any real improvements (got them just for the looks) but now I can't wait until I get the pull fan on.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chatterbox272*
> 
> It is, the red LED one. That's weird then, why would I be getting so much better temps if it's the same fan with LEDs. And I was planning on drawing power from a Molex plug anyway, and just running the PWM and one of the Speed signals from the header.


The 212+ stock fan (Blade Master) isn't the same as the XtraFlo Red Led.
Also the american 212 Evo stock fan (Xtraflo 120 non led) isn't the same as the Xtraflo Red Led.

XtraFlo 120 Red Led

Speed (R.P.M.) 800 - 2200 R.P.M ± 10%(PWM)
Air Flow (CFM) 34.02 - 93.74 CFM ± 10%
Air pressure (mmH2O) 0.43 - 3.30 mmH20
Current (Ampere) 0.45A (0.7A MAX)

212+ stock fan (Blade Master)

Speed (R.P.M.) 600 - 2000 R.P.M.
Air Flow (CFM) 21.2 - 76.8 CFM
Air pressure (mmH2O) 0.40 - 3.90 mm H2O
Current (Ampere) 0.36A Max.

American 212 Evo stock fan (Xtraflo 120 non led)

Speed (R.P.M.) 600 - 2,000 RPM (PWM) ± 10%
Air Flow (CFM) 24.9 - 82.9 CFM ± 10%
Air pressure (mmH2O) 0.3 - 2.7 mmH2O
Current (Ampere) 0.34A

Well, the Red Led is listed with high CFM and high air pressure.
And It also has higher speed (rpm) than the Blade Master.

Another guy reported some improvement with this Red Led fan on the Hyper 212+.

http://www.overclock.net/products/coolermaster-xtraflo-120mm/reviews


----------



## mickemys

Reseated my EVO, no change in temps still low 80 on stock. Switched to another 3770 same thing. Stock fan 100+ stock settings..
THEN we switched motherboard to Asus P8Z77-M. And a H60 cooler with dual typhoons. 60 on stock. Now running 4.5ghz on same temps as stock yesterday almost.
Only downside is under heavy load the 1850rpm typhoons and the stock fan from the radiator i put as intake in the bottom of the case goes up in rpm. And they make more sound then the other 30cfm fans i have in my case


----------



## Conspiracy

can you clarify what you are saying.

temps are low 80 on stock. do you mean stock speed no overclock? are you idling at 80 or are you at 80 under full load doing a test with prime95 or another stress test program?


----------



## mickemys

I had 81 full load on stock settings/auto volt with an EVO, 19 degrees ambient temp. Turned out to be a fried motherboard. Was 100+ degrees after 3 mins with the stock fan default settings.


----------



## chinesethunda

well at least you figured out the problem


----------



## jacklance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpm666*
> 
> I bought one for $15 at Fry's on Sunday.


Cool. going to buy that soon.


----------



## Alastair

Well My 212 EVO will remain in ghost for a little while longer. I have been scared away from the corsair H series coolers that I was looking to put into GHOST once I got my FX-8350. It seems their quality has dropped a bit and leaks are becoming more common on newer coolers and also there customer support also doesn't seem so great lately from what I have read on the OCN forums. 3 incidents of H100's leaking on one forum. I really wanna push my FX-8350 to 5GHz when I get it. I was looking at a corsair H70 but that's been scrapped. Anybody have any opinions on the Thermaltake water 2.0 series and Thermaltake's customer support? I am also hoping CoolerMaster will release a mid-range water cooler as well because I think I will choose one of those if they do. Or I could always wait for like a Hyper T4+ or EVO model....


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well My 212 EVO will remain in ghost for a little while longer. I have been scared away from the corsair H series coolers that I was looking to put into GHOST once I got my FX-8350. It seems their quality has dropped a bit and leaks are becoming more common on newer coolers and also there customer support also doesn't seem so great lately from what I have read on the OCN forums. 3 incidents of H100's leaking on one forum. I really wanna push my FX-8350 to 5GHz when I get it. I was looking at a corsair H70 but that's been scrapped. Anybody have any opinions on the Thermaltake water 2.0 series and Thermaltake's customer support? I am also hoping CoolerMaster will release a mid-range water cooler as well because I think I will choose one of those if they do. Or I could always wait for like a Hyper T4+ or EVO model....


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well My 212 EVO will remain in ghost for a little while longer. I have been scared away from the corsair H series coolers that I was looking to put into GHOST once I got my FX-8350. It seems their quality has dropped a bit and leaks are becoming more common on newer coolers and also there customer support also doesn't seem so great lately from what I have read on the OCN forums. 3 incidents of H100's leaking on one forum. I really wanna push my FX-8350 to 5GHz when I get it. I was looking at a corsair H70 but that's been scrapped. Anybody have any opinions on the Thermaltake water 2.0 series and Thermaltake's customer support? I am also hoping CoolerMaster will release a mid-range water cooler as well because I think I will choose one of those if they do. Or I could always wait for like a Hyper T4+ or EVO model....
Click to expand...

Huh?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Huh?


Edited.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Huh?
> 
> 
> 
> Edited.
Click to expand...

Awe Yeah! When is release date?


----------



## chinesethunda

not gonna lie that does look tempting


----------



## xnuw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> not gonna lie that does look tempting


me too


----------



## mrtoyotaco

PRICE???


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well My 212 EVO will remain in ghost for a little while longer. I have been scared away from the corsair H series coolers that I was looking to put into GHOST once I got my FX-8350. It seems their quality has dropped a bit and leaks are becoming more common on newer coolers and also there customer support also doesn't seem so great lately from what I have read on the OCN forums. 3 incidents of H100's leaking on one forum. I really wanna push my FX-8350 to 5GHz when I get it. I was looking at a corsair H70 but that's been scrapped. Anybody have any opinions on the Thermaltake water 2.0 series and Thermaltake's customer support? I am also hoping CoolerMaster will release a mid-range water cooler as well because I think I will choose one of those if they do. Or I could always wait for like a Hyper T4+ or EVO model....


I found a feedback from a guy on the Newegg about the Thermaltake 2.0 Extreme and the 212 Evo.

Owner: *Cdino88*

*Water cooling made cheap and easy*

*Pros:* Great cooling
Closed loop water
Fan control software
Easy installation
9 degrees celcius cooler under load than my hyper 212 evo

*Cons:* Very loud on extreme setting
Idle temperatures are 3-5 degrees higher than my hyper 212 evo
Doesn't fit in my case when I thought it would! (other thoughts)

*Other Thoughts:* Now as I was debating on whether to get the Corsair H100 or this Thermaltake water 2.0 Extreme, I was reading all the reviews on both products that I could find. Seeing that many people were having some issues with the H100, I decided to go with the 2.0 Extreme. Checked here on newegg what the dimensions were, and it states that the radiator is the same size as the H100! I have the Corsair 500r case which can fit a H100 in the top bay. So I figured, no brainer here, go with quality over quantity. Little did I know, newegg's specs were off! This is the first time I have ever had a problem with newegg, even though I did not buy this product from here!

If people are wondering, the Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme has a BIGGER radiator than the Corsair H100!


----------



## fishymamba

I put in a Hyper 212 Evo in my first build a couple weeks ago! It's been working pretty good with my i7-2700K.
I'm not sure if I will be able to over clock it, temps get up to the high 60s while running Intel Burn Test at Very High settings.
Can any one tell me the max core temp for the i7 2700k?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> I put in a Hyper 212 Evo in my first build a couple weeks ago! It's been working pretty good with my i7-2700K.
> I'm not sure if I will be able to over clock it, temps get up to the high 60s while running Intel Burn Test at Very High settings.
> Can any one tell me the max core temp for the i7 2700k?


If you run Realtemp (a temperature monitoring program), it will give you how far you are from the maximum temp. it is called "distance to TJ max".


----------



## fishymamba

Real temp is telling me that the TJ Max is 98C, but this when the CPU starts lowering clock speed to cool down and I don't think it is a good idea to get the CPU anywhere near that.

A better question would be: What is the max SAFE temp I should let my CPU get to? I heard that 72C is the max recommended, is this true?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> Real temp is telling me that the TJ Max is 98C, but this when the CPU starts lowering clock speed to cool down and I don't think it is a good idea to get the CPU anywhere near that.
> A better question would be: What is the max SAFE temp I should let my CPU get to? I heard that 72C is the max recommended, is this true?


With that cooler, you should stay below 72.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> Real temp is telling me that the TJ Max is 98C, but this when the CPU starts lowering clock speed to cool down and I don't think it is a good idea to get the CPU anywhere near that.
> A better question would be: What is the max SAFE temp I should let my CPU get to? I heard that 72C is the max recommended, is this true?


Personally,

I like to stay around 10C under the TJ MAX with the an Intel Burn Test or Long prime run. I would push it until cores start hitting around 80-85C Then I would quit. You aren't giving yourself a lot of run to play.

I know my Ivy runs hotter, but she never gets hotter than 90C and my TJ Max is 105C.

So--> If your TJ Max is 98C stay around 10-15C under that. Whatever you are comfortable with. Also have the same cooler.

You have to remember too, you CPU will ALMOST NEVER get as hot as it will when running a program like IBT, even if you fold a lot.


----------



## Khaled G

Add me to the club, Bought and Installed Yesterday.





I need to redirect the airflow inside the case, any suggestions ?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Add me to the club, Bought and Installed Yesterday.
> 
> 
> I need to redirect the airflow inside the case, any suggestions ?


Nice rig.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Add me to the club, Bought and Installed Yesterday.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to redirect the airflow inside the case, any suggestions ?


How do you like the enforcer? Easy to build in?


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Add me to the club, Bought and Installed Yesterday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to redirect the airflow inside the case, any suggestions ?


You could do what I did and that was mount the 212 vertically so it exhausts ot the top of the case! you might see a temp drop of 2C cause it is possible that your rear exhaust fan is not as powerful as the 212's fans.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Add me to the club, Bought and Installed Yesterday.
> 
> 
> I need to redirect the airflow inside the case, any suggestions ?


Nice rig.

I see in your rig that you're using 2x120mm fans as top intake.

Well, heat does rise.
So I would place these fans as top exhaust.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Add me to the club, Bought and Installed Yesterday.
> 
> 
> I need to redirect the airflow inside the case, any suggestions ?
> 
> 
> 
> Nice rig.
> 
> I see in your rig that you're using 2x120mm fans as top intake.
> 
> Well, heat does rise.
> So I would place these fans as top exhaust.
Click to expand...

Look carefully those top fans are placed in exhaust mode.


----------



## stellamonster7

def set those top fans to exhaust if their not. I have my evo push/pull set for vertical airflow if you check my pics in my sig. hey I am not going to mess with physics...heat rises and my top fan cfm is way better than my rear one.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Too many fans IMO. But it looks cool. "MOAR FANS!!" Isn't always better. Go check out my testing. It is in my sig. FOR ME, adding anything to the top of my case with the EVO orientation like it is in your picture, either added temps or didn't make a difference.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Look carefully those top fans are placed in exhaust mode.


Yes, you're right. LOL


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Too many fans IMO. But it looks cool. "MOAR FANS!!" Isn't always better. Go check out my testing. It is in my sig. FOR ME, adding anything to the top of my case with the EVO orientation like it is in your picture, either added temps or didn't make a difference.


yeah, I seem to have found the same, more was not always better, but I haven't made a spreadsheet yet to post in a spoiler, so I don't want to waste anyone's time trying to review my work yet in some long paragraph of data. pretty much the same for me, it looks cool with blue LED on top and bottom of my cooling set up...so I left it alone.


----------



## Alastair

You are right. No more fans... MOAR LED FANS!!!!!!!!!


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*


Is this going to be available in the US anytime soon?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Is this going to be available in the US anytime soon?


No idea mate.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this going to be available in the US anytime soon?
Click to expand...

You will probably find they will be made available alongside the second generation FX chips.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

I can't seem to find a release date.


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Is this going to be available in the US anytime soon?


second that, right!? I am all intrigued to see some real world results after watching that.


----------



## chinesethunda

honestly if he puts the top front fan as an intake it might help a little, it all depends on what fans he has. the heat rises argument is really invalid in a relatively small space with a bunch of fans pushing the air around. if I wanted I could have all my hot air in the bottom of my case should I choose, his setup right now

best setup khaled g might be to just remove the front top fan altogether


----------



## Khaled G

Ok, To answer all of your Questions:

1- I hate that it's not possible to mount a corsair H100 PROPERLY on the top, even without it's fans, other than that, I love the enforcer.
2- The front 200mm megaflow is turned off because it's loud.
3 all top and rear fans are exaust, the rear fan came with the enforcer and the top LED fans bought with the case ( Corsair saving pack).
4- I intend to buy 2 more of these LED fans as front intake to replace the noisy megaflow.
5- the air direction in the 212 EVO is going towards the rear.
6- I intend to add more memory, so no chance to rotate the EVO, I have the tall vengeance sticks.
7- I know about the "too much airflow" issue, My fans Never reach their top speeds.

Wongwarren: Thanks. I really care for the looks.
./Cy4n1d3\.: It's still in progress, then It's done, there won't be a place to stick a finger.









EDIT: I'm currently getting ready to join the Ivy Stable club. (Fine tuning the OC then firing up Prime64, coretemp, and CPU-z and doing a long 24h+ custom test).


----------



## ld1302

Hi! I had some questions about my temperatures, as I'm not sure if they are acceptable or not.

I am using:
3570k
z77a-gd55 msi motherboard
Coolermaster hyper 212 plus
Ambient temperatures (72 degrees F~)

At stock speeds, my load temps using small FFT's for an hour (I was just using the small FFT's to test temps, I'm a little scared of IBT) had a max of 56 with temps ranging from 52-56.

However when I went to overclock, temps skyrocketed. I tried two methods of overclocking.

Fixed voltage- I was running 4.4 ghz at 1.184 volts (read from cpuz, the bios setting was 1.225) and with the same prime95 test was hitting temps in the lower 80's with a max of 85 on one of the cores.

I also tried an overclock using the turbo multipliers (to get the power saving options, as msi doesn't have offset voltage adjusting, or at least I don't think the z77a-gd55 does). I set voltages to auto, and the turbo multiplier to 4.2 ghz. Prime temps were in the high 70's, with one core reaching 81.

Are these temps too high? Thank you for the help, I've been lurking here a while, and this site is just a wonder in terms of its knowledgeable users, and nice search features


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ld1302*
> 
> Hi! I had some questions about my temperatures, as I'm not sure if they are acceptable or not.
> I am using:
> 3570k
> z77a-gd55 msi motherboard
> Coolermaster hyper 212 plus
> Ambient temperatures (72 degrees F~)
> At stock speeds, my load temps using small FFT's for an hour (I was just using the small FFT's to test temps, I'm a little scared of IBT) had a max of 56 with temps ranging from 52-56.
> However when I went to overclock, temps skyrocketed. I tried two methods of overclocking.
> Fixed voltage- I was running 4.4 ghz at 1.184 volts (read from cpuz, the bios setting was 1.225) and with the same prime95 test was hitting temps in the lower 80's with a max of 85 on one of the cores.
> I also tried an overclock using the turbo multipliers (to get the power saving options, as msi doesn't have offset voltage adjusting, or at least I don't think the z77a-gd55 does). I set voltages to auto, and the turbo multiplier to 4.2 ghz. Prime temps were in the high 70's, with one core reaching 81.
> Are these temps too high? Thank you for the help, I've been lurking here a while, and this site is just a wonder in terms of its knowledgeable users, and nice search features


those are pretty average temps for a mild overclock 4.2-4.5, depending on the nec volts to reach it and high 1.1xx to low 1.2xx volts can be on par from what I've seen and def on par with my cpu. I have hit as high as 95 with 4.6GHz and my 4.5, 24/7 OC can def reach 85+ at full load.

what's up with your Vcore. set at 1.184 and cpuz reads 1.225, that's a huge difference?! I don't know much about you mobo, so not sure what's going on with voltages and there are other places to discuss than here, but you may want to consult some folks with msi boards to get a better idea for OCing and then your temps may be more relevant to discuss as your power sent to your cpu will ultimately determine what your temps will be.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ld1302*
> 
> Hi! I had some questions about my temperatures, as I'm not sure if they are acceptable or not.
> I am using:
> 3570k
> z77a-gd55 msi motherboard
> Coolermaster hyper 212 plus
> Ambient temperatures (72 degrees F~)
> At stock speeds, my load temps using small FFT's for an hour (I was just using the small FFT's to test temps, I'm a little scared of IBT) had a max of 56 with temps ranging from 52-56.
> However when I went to overclock, temps skyrocketed. I tried two methods of overclocking.
> Fixed voltage- I was running 4.4 ghz at 1.184 volts (read from cpuz, the bios setting was 1.225) and with the same prime95 test was hitting temps in the lower 80's with a max of 85 on one of the cores.
> I also tried an overclock using the turbo multipliers (to get the power saving options, as msi doesn't have offset voltage adjusting, or at least I don't think the z77a-gd55 does). I set voltages to auto, and the turbo multiplier to 4.2 ghz. Prime temps were in the high 70's, with one core reaching 81.
> Are these temps too high? Thank you for the help, I've been lurking here a while, and this site is just a wonder in terms of its knowledgeable users, and nice search features


Either you got a stubborn chip, you applied too much TIM, or your cooler isn't seated correctly.

Those temps are abnormal, but not extremely.


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Either you got a stubborn chip, you applied too much TIM, or your cooler isn't seated correctly.
> Those temps are abnormal, but not extremely.


if those are really that abnormal other than a few degree up, then either I have been way to lazy to delid or I need to RMA my cpu


----------



## ld1302

Thanks for the help everyone, much appreciated!

I suppose I could try reseating the cpu (I'm not too happy about that though ><) and regarding tim application, I used the 2 line method described here http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5

EDIT:If I was going to reseat the cooler, it would be best to completely disassemble my pc right?


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ld1302*
> 
> Thanks for the help everyone, much appreciated!
> I suppose I could try reseating the cpu (I'm not too happy about that though ><) and regarding tim application, I used the 2 line method described here http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5
> EDIT:If I was going to reseat the cooler, it would be best to completely disassemble my pc right?


I've reseated mine several times with different types of TIM, you should be able to set the case on it's side. unless you feel that it's more comfort in taking the mobo out, but I've personally never done that. reseating with maybe the single line rice grain method would tell you if things will improve temp wise. I've never seen many advocates for the two line method here on OCN, just some youtube stuff.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Use the grain of rice method and let the cooler seating do the work.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ld1302*
> 
> Hi! I had some questions about my temperatures, as I'm not sure if they are acceptable or not.
> I am using:
> 3570k
> z77a-gd55 msi motherboard
> Coolermaster hyper 212 plus
> Ambient temperatures (72 degrees F~)
> At stock speeds, my load temps using small FFT's for an hour (I was just using the small FFT's to test temps, I'm a little scared of IBT) had a max of 56 with temps ranging from 52-56.
> However when I went to overclock, temps skyrocketed. I tried two methods of overclocking.
> *Fixed voltage- I was running 4.4 ghz at 1.184 volts (read from cpuz, the bios setting was 1.225) and with the same prime95 test was hitting temps in the lower 80's with a max of 85 on one of the cores.*
> *I also tried an overclock using the turbo multipliers (to get the power saving options, as msi doesn't have offset voltage adjusting, or at least I don't think the z77a-gd55 does). I set voltages to auto, and the turbo multiplier to 4.2 ghz. Prime temps were in the high 70's, with one core reaching 81.*
> Are these temps too high? Thank you for the help, I've been lurking here a while, and this site is just a wonder in terms of its knowledgeable users, and nice search features


You may just have a stubborn chip.

The first thing I think isn't normal. At 4.4ghz on my rig I dont bust 70C in prime. I do have a DELTA fan on mine though.

The second bolded thing looks fishy to me though.

Even if everything is okay. Reseating your cooler once will give you feelings of ease to know that it isn't how you seated it, but it may just be that you have a hotter chip than most.


----------



## ld1302

Ok, so I followed mrtoyotaco's advice of using the rice grain method and did some cable rearranging as well (the best I can do at the moment I think, without drilling new holes in the case or something).

Temps, with the 4.2 ghz auto voltage clock using the same hour small FFT prime95 test as before, is now in the lower to mid 70's, with one core spiking to 78.

Temps definitely dropped after I reseated the heatsink, but they still seem a bit high ><

I may just have to live with the fact this chip runs hot







Again I appreciate everyone's help (any more comments are certainly appreciated)


----------



## Alastair

Ok guys. I just buggered up my Hypers xTRA FLO's by trying to plug both in onto one PWM header without a splitter.







Don't want to go into details about my mad method.







. So now what I want to know is what fans are good as replacement fans? I was looking at Aerocool's Shark fans I have heard good stories about those or just get another two xTRA FLO's? And why does the red LED XtraFLO have higher RPM than the standard ones. Is there a way to turn the LED's off? So the basically whats the best 120mm fan out there? Thanks:thumb:


----------



## adridu59

Blademasters are nice.


----------



## Alastair

Yeah I was also looking at those. But aren't the xTRA FLO's a revision of the blademasters? Currently running a passively cooled cooler and my CPU is downclocked down to 2GHz on 1.2V to send this.


----------



## Alastair

The standard xTRAFLO has a sleeve bearing while the led xTRAFLO has a dynaloop bearing. But I dont want the LED's. So do you think I could just switch the red blades for black ones and then I will find a way to disable the LED's? I like the red xTRAFLO cause it runs at a slightly higher 2200RPM and so has massive airflow and good static pressure.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Ok guys. I just buggered up my Hypers xTRA FLO's by trying to plug both in onto one PWM header without a splitter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't want to go into details about my mad method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So now what I want to know is what fans are good as replacement fans? I was looking at Aerocool's Shark fans I have heard good stories about those or just get another two xTRA FLO's? And why does the red LED XtraFLO have higher RPM than the standard ones. Is there a way to turn the LED's off? So the basically whats the best 120mm fan out there? Thanks:thumb:


I've heard good recommendations about the Aerocool Shark but usually to be used as case fan.
I can't tell if these fans are also recommended for heatsinks.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Ok guys. I just buggered up my Hypers xTRA FLO's by trying to plug both in onto one PWM header without a splitter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't want to go into details about my mad method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So now what I want to know is what fans are good as replacement fans? I was looking at Aerocool's Shark fans I have heard good stories about those or just get another two xTRA FLO's? And why does the red LED XtraFLO have higher RPM than the standard ones. Is there a way to turn the LED's off? So the basically whats the best 120mm fan out there? Thanks:thumb:
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard good recommendations about the Aerocool Shark but usually to be used as case fan.
> I can't tell if these fans are also recommended for heatsinks.
Click to expand...

Well I am currently thinking on the 2200RPM XTRA FLO red and then I will disable the LED's and switch the blades if it is possible. The only reason why I was thinking of Sharkfans is because I can drive out now and go buy a pair from my local PC shop rather then having to order them online and pay shipping.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ld1302*
> 
> Ok, so I followed mrtoyotaco's advice of using the rice grain method and did some cable rearranging as well (the best I can do at the moment I think, without drilling new holes in the case or something).
> Temps, with the 4.2 ghz auto voltage clock using the same hour small FFT prime95 test as before, is now in the lower to mid 70's, with one core spiking to 78.
> Temps definitely dropped after I reseated the heatsink, but they still seem a bit high ><
> I may just have to live with the fact this chip runs hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again I appreciate everyone's help (any more comments are certainly appreciated)


Auto-overclock is bad. Manually lower the voltage and Prime for at least 12 hours until you can't lower it anymore.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well I am currently thinking on the 2200RPM XTRA FLO red and then I will disable the LED's and switch the blades if it is possible. The only reason why I was thinking of Sharkfans is because I can drive out now and go buy a pair from my local PC shop rather then having to order them online and pay shipping.


If you don't want the Blademasters or Xtraflos, then you're pretty much left with AP-15's.


----------



## Alastair

AP 15's? What brand makes those?


----------



## 72bluenova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> AP 15's? What brand makes those?


http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ap-15

From the first link you get
http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/051/d1225c12b1ap_detail.html


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *72bluenova*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> AP 15's? What brand makes those?
> 
> 
> 
> http://lmgtfy.com/?q=ap-15
> 
> From the first link you get
> http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/051/d1225c12b1ap_detail.html
Click to expand...

Dude that's hilarious. +1 rep! So they quote airflow figures of 98m^3/h. What's that in CFM. By my calculations it equals 166 or so CFM but that can;t be right can it?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Dude that's hilarious. +1 rep! So they quote airflow figures of 98m^3/h. What's that in CFM. By my calculations it equals 166 or so CFM but that can;t be right can it?


I'm surprised you don't know the famous Scythe Gentle Typhoon line. It's widely regarded as the king of radiator / heat-sink fans.


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Dude that's hilarious. +1 rep! So they quote airflow figures of 98m^3/h. What's that in CFM. By my calculations it equals 166 or so CFM but that can;t be right can it?


here's a decent tool for converting. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/flow-units-converter-d_405.html

that IS incorrect from my math. it's about 58cfm. there are higher cfm fans out there, but the issue is, are you really getting what's advertised with those other higher cfm fans? I personally don't have these in question because they are moderately expensive fans IMO, but I too, can see why they are popular and may consider Scythe and Delta along with more CM going forward.


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Auto-overclock is bad. Manually lower the voltage and Prime for at least 12 hours until you can't lower it anymore.


+1 To this all the way.


----------



## Alastair

Well the AP-15's aren't available locally so I will just go with the 2200RPM xTRAFLO's


----------



## ld1302

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Auto-overclock is bad. Manually lower the voltage and Prime for at least 12 hours until you can't lower it anymore.


I know auto is less than optimal but it's the only way I can retain the powersaving features (The z77a-gd55 doesn't allow offset voltage manipulation). It feeds the chip a max of 1.2 volts for the 4.2 o/c, with manual I needed 1.184 for 4.4 (but got higher temps, I might try again after I reseated my cooler)

Is it worth losing the power saving modes, for slightly lower voltages on load and higher clock speeds?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm pretty new to all this!


----------



## chinesethunda

you don't need the power saving modes, you can't have those if you want to oc. you need to turn the power saving modes off. and blademasters > extraflows
if you want performance, the blademasters actually > the gt ap15s as well. the reason the ap15s are loved so much is because they are almost silent, but just using 2 blademasters or even just one it's just as quiet since it's a pwm fan. tbh if i'm just using one or 2 fans for push or push pull on my cooler, i would rather have the blademaster because it performs better. it's been proven many times over already


----------



## Captain Mayhem

I think I found a great fan for the hyper 212+. gobs of static pressure (over 8mmH20!) and doesn't even break the 43dba barrier. With a little PWM circuit, I think it could be controlled well. I'll be grabbing one soon and find out just what kind of tone it gives, and if it undervolts well. http://canada.newark.com/ebm-papst/4412m/axial-fan-119mm-12vdc/dp/31M0728?whydiditmatch=rel_default&matchedProduct=4715KL-04W-B30&in_merch=Popular%20Products&matchedProduct=4715KL-04W-B30&whydiditmatch=rel_default


----------



## Alastair

I also had a look at the coolermaster excalibur fans. they also look like they have pretty good specs. Anybody tried them out?


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I also had a look at the coolermaster excalibur fans. they also look like they have pretty good specs. Anybody tried them out?


I've heard from other owners that it has strong airflow but it's rather loud.

Also I've heard that it's need some mod to fit the 212+.
The fan clips aren't compatible with fans that have mounting posts requiring longer screws.

http://img283.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=539111447_hyper212_122_78lo.jpg
http://img202.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=539109384_excalibur_122_516lo.jpg

But I think that the Excalibur doesn't have issues to fit in the Evo.

There's a review about this fan:

*Good Things*
PWM fan control
Easy Clean Option
Honeycomb vents
High Pressure Design
Good for Case and Water

*Bad Things*
Bad for heatsinks
Mounting posts require longer screws
Blade design for pressure not focused airflow

http://www.ninjalane.com/reviews/cooling/cm_excalibur


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> I've heard from other owners that it has strong airflow but it's rather loud.
> Also I've heard that it's need some mod to fit the 212+.
> The fan clips aren't compatible with fans that have mounting posts requiring longer screws.
> http://img283.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=539111447_hyper212_122_78lo.jpg
> http://img202.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=539109384_excalibur_122_516lo.jpg
> But I think that the Excalibur doesn't have issues to fit in the Evo.
> There's a review about this fan:
> 
> *Good Things*
> PWM fan control
> Easy Clean Option
> Honeycomb vents
> High Pressure Design
> Good for Case and Water
> *Bad Things*
> Bad for heatsinks
> Mounting posts require longer screws
> Blade design for pressure not focused airflow
> 
> http://www.ninjalane.com/reviews/cooling/cm_excalibur


I used to use Excaliburs with my Plus without any mods whatsoever no problem.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I also had a look at the coolermaster excalibur fans. they also look like they have pretty good specs. Anybody tried them out?
> 
> 
> 
> I've heard from other owners that it has strong airflow but it's rather loud.
> 
> Also I've heard that it's need some mod to fit the 212+.
> The fan clips aren't compatible with fans that have mounting posts requiring longer screws.
> 
> http://img283.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=539111447_hyper212_122_78lo.jpg
> http://img202.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=539109384_excalibur_122_516lo.jpg
> 
> But I think that the Excalibur doesn't have issues to fit in the Evo.
> 
> There's a review about this fan:
> 
> *Good Things*
> PWM fan control
> Easy Clean Option
> Honeycomb vents
> High Pressure Design
> Good for Case and Water
> 
> *Bad Things*
> Bad for heatsinks
> Mounting posts require longer screws
> Blade design for pressure not focused airflow
> 
> http://www.ninjalane.com/reviews/cooling/cm_excalibur
Click to expand...

Well I have chosen two 2200RPM xTRAFLO reds. They seem too have a good mix between pressure, airflow,noise and looks. I didn't choose the blademasters cause I just dont like how it looks. I gotta have something that has form and function. I will make a plan about turning off the LED's and switching the blades with my dead black xTRAFLO's so that they dont conflict with my blue/black theme.


----------



## chinesethunda

If I recall correctly the blademasters perform a little better than the extraflows


----------



## lukeman3000

What kind of overclocks and temps do you guys have with your 212s?

I have an i5-3570K at 4.2 GHz with the stock cooler and my temps stay about 10-15 degrees under TDP when running a stress test in Prime.

Is it reasonable to assume that I could achieve a stable 4.8-5GHz overclock with a Hyper 212 and have safe temps?

Would an Antec 620 or a Corsair H60 be any better?


----------



## Badwrench

Count me in. 212evo with Medium Speed Yate-Loons in push/pull setup. Good temps so far (pretty close to my old closed loop with a 240 rad), but with quite a bit less noise.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Well I have chosen two 2200RPM xTRAFLO reds. They seem too have a good mix between pressure, airflow,noise and looks. I didn't choose the blademasters cause I just dont like how it looks. I gotta have something that has form and function. I will make a plan about turning off the LED's and switching the blades with my dead black xTRAFLO's so that they dont conflict with my blue/black theme.


I agree that both the XtraFlo and the Excalibur have better looking than the Blademaster.
They also would give a nice looking to the heatsink or to the case, especially for window side cases.

Well, it's just my opinion. LOL


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> If I recall correctly the blademasters perform a little better than the extraflows


Yep according to this thread they are. But I think they are ugly. And i like looks as well as something that performs well!


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> What kind of overclocks and temps do you guys have with your 212s?
> I have an i5-3570K at 4.2 GHz with the stock cooler and my temps stay about 10-15 degrees under TDP when running a stress test in Prime.
> Is it reasonable to assume that I could achieve a stable 4.8-5GHz overclock with a Hyper 212 and have safe temps?
> Would an Antec 620 or a Corsair H60 be any better?


I am at 4.5GHz, under load with prime at about 85 degrees with my evo, but I need 1.28 volts to get there and compared to most 4.5GHz, that's on the higher side for temps. I was not blessed with a good chip. Mrtoyotaco on the other hand has a sweet chip, I think he's 4.5GHz and much lower voltage and therefore I think is about 75 degrees C, check out his sig, I think he lists it there.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stellamonster7*
> 
> I am at 4.5GHz, under load with prime at about 85 degrees with my evo, but I need 1.28 volts to get there and compared to most 4.5GHz, that's on the higher side for temps. I was not blessed with a good chip. Mrtoyotaco on the other hand has a sweet chip, I think he's 4.5GHz and much lower voltage and therefore I think is about 75 degrees C, check out his sig, I think he lists it there.


But Mrtoyotaco is using the Evo with a Delta fan, isn't it?

I believe that the Delta fan could outperforms the Evo's stock fan.


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> But Mrtoyotaco is using the Evo with a Delta fan, isn't it?
> I believe that the Delta fan could outperforms the Evo's stock fan.


yes sir, I believe so...he keeps trying to get me to switch -







...I think I might do it once I delid and get some extra cfm out of things

edited: but I do have push/pull with both fans having 74cfm. I think it's my Vcore that's killing it...


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stellamonster7*
> 
> yes sir, I believe so...he keeps trying to get me to switch -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I think I might do it once I delid and get some extra cfm out of things
> edited: but I do have push/pull with both fans having 74cfm. I think it's my Vcore that's killing it...


If you dont care about noise... DELTA ftw. At 100% RPM, that thing is pretty dang loud.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> If you dont care about noise... DELTA ftw. At 100% RPM, that thing is pretty dang loud.


There's no fan that can outperforms a fan bundled with a jet engine motor. LOL


----------



## chinesethunda

lol that's the only fan I have yet to order. where can i find one cheap


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> lol that's the only fan I have yet to order. where can i find one cheap


They dont come cheap. Lol. Amazon free shipping probably. They are worth it. Willing to bet one delta PWM fan would do out most fans in a P/P.


----------



## edsai

Well, I was just curious about the Delta fans and found many funny feedbacks from the owners on the Newegg.
I coudn't stop reading the feedbacks. LOL

Delta AFB1212GHE-CF00 120mm Case Fan

5200 RPM
240.96 CFM
Maximum Air Pressure : 27.48 mm H2O
120 x 120 x 38mm

Louder than my car

Very loud + makes the room cold

Did I say JET ENGINE LOUD?

My room sounds like an airport runway.

5200 RPM... ? I would put on smal airplane

Can no longer hear dogs barking outside.

You really should install a fan guard, the blades can injure you. Be careful.

looooooooooooooouuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuud!!!!!

My girlfriend said it's lauder than her hair dryer!

The dogs likes to howl to the sound. My wife thought I was vacuuming... ended up really having to vacuum

its loud? duh...

This thing could probably suck up small animals and wake up the neighborhood all at the same time.

I might get one of these for my bathroom so when i get out i can crank it on and be dry in a few moments saving me towels laundry.

It SOUNDS like you're flying a plane with it.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001&Tpk=Delta%20AFB1212GHE-CF00


----------



## mrtoyotaco

Haha. Thats just under load.

I have it set it sit at 12.5% unless temps get higher than 60C. Then it revs up to 100%. I dont hear it operate at 12.5%.


----------



## Killa Cam

i got temps @ 28c on idle. when i prime on full, my brain burn up to mid 80's c. da hell, b? stock voltage while at 4.2, finna remount my hyphy and redo my timz. prolly face my exhaust upwards. hopefully i get better results.


----------



## Conspiracy

ok this is a serious question although it may seem silly im just not informed nor experienced with computers as much as i want.

BUT

lets say i would like to consider reorienting my 212 (assuming i dont have problems interfering with my ram) but i want to make it orient top to bottom where the exhaust from the heatsink goes to the top of the case. do i need to take the whole thing off and reinstall with fresh thermal paste or could i technically loosen it a teeny tiny bit and slowly turn it while still attached and then tighten it back

im not sure if anyone has ever asked this or even thought of doing it while its still attached. idk if this is a dumb question


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> ok this is a serious question although it may seem silly im just not informed nor experienced with computers as much as i want.
> 
> BUT
> 
> lets say i would like to consider reorienting my 212 (assuming i dont have problems interfering with my ram) but i want to make it orient top to bottom where the exhaust from the heatsink goes to the top of the case. do i need to take the whole thing off and reinstall with fresh thermal paste or could i technically loosen it a teeny tiny bit and slowly turn it while still attached and then tighten it back
> 
> im not sure if anyone has ever asked this or even thought of doing it while its still attached. idk if this is a dumb question


it has been tested as you can see here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning

but i strongly suggest you reseat it with fresh thermal paste


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> it has been tested as you can see here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning
> but i strongly suggest you reseat it with fresh thermal paste


thanks i meant more as doing this while it was still attached. im soon to upgrade my video card to one that im pretty sure will generate more heat than my 7770 which i dont think has ever gone over 45degrees*C. im looking at a single gtx 580. and im just thinking about making my airflow and heat get out more bottom to top since my front intake doesnt do much and i have a single side intake that pulls a decent amount of air into my case and then i have some powerful exhaust fans i can put in the top such as the stock 212EVO fan and the stock fan that comes with the corsair H60. right now my top exhaust is a scythe fan that is pretty quiet but does exhaust a lot of air when i put my hand above it


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> thanks i meant more as doing this while it was still attached. im soon to upgrade my video card to one that im pretty sure will generate more heat than my 7770 which i dont think has ever gone over 45degrees*C. im looking at a single gtx 580. and im just thinking about making my airflow and heat get out more bottom to top since my front intake doesnt do much and i have a single side intake that pulls a decent amount of air into my case and then i have some powerful exhaust fans i can put in the top such as the stock 212EVO fan and the stock fan that comes with the corsair H60. right now my top exhaust is a scythe fan that is pretty quiet but does exhaust a lot of air when i put my hand above it


No you have to fully take it apart then re-install it.


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> it has been tested as you can see here
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1199135/hyper-212-testing-push-vs-pull-vs-push-pull-also-horizontal-vs-vertical-positioning
> but i strongly suggest you reseat it with fresh thermal paste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks i meant more as doing this while it was still attached. im soon to upgrade my video card to one that im pretty sure will generate more heat than my 7770 which i dont think has ever gone over 45degrees*C. im looking at a single gtx 580. and im just thinking about making my airflow and heat get out more bottom to top since my front intake doesnt do much and i have a single side intake that pulls a decent amount of air into my case and then i have some powerful exhaust fans i can put in the top such as the stock 212EVO fan and the stock fan that comes with the corsair H60. right now my top exhaust is a scythe fan that is pretty quiet but does exhaust a lot of air when i put my hand above it
Click to expand...

i see what you are trying to do and sounds pretty good but as wongwarren said you need to dismantle it, then clean of the paste and apply new paste then reseat it. The way your wanting to do it would totally screw up your TIM and temps would go through the roof


----------



## Conspiracy

thanks guys. i guess it made sense in my head but i didnt think about all the other factors.

i havent done it yet but next time i open my computer i am going to take the 212 off clean it and see if it will fit oriented the other direction and if so i am going to give that a try and see if making all the direction for heat more bottom to top rather than front to back in preparation for a bigger video card that will generate more heat most likely


----------



## DeTTo

hello guys, i want to do lapping on my 212 plus, but my question is if i will do the lapping on the IHS of my core i5 750 too, would it be better? or its good enough only lapped cooler base? thanks


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> thanks guys. i guess it made sense in my head but i didnt think about all the other factors.
> i havent done it yet but next time i open my computer i am going to take the 212 off clean it and see if it will fit oriented the other direction and if so i am going to give that a try and see if making all the direction for heat more bottom to top rather than front to back in preparation for a bigger video card that will generate more heat most likely


depends really on how fresh your TIM has been on there, if you had just applied it recently and it hasn't caked yet and hardened, you could easily rotate it without any detriment to your temps, but if its been there a while and already settled and kinda caked in there you would want to redo it all. you could try to turn it without redoing the TIM but temps might not be as good as you want it to though
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeTTo*
> 
> hello guys, i want to do lapping on my 212 plus, but my question is if i will do the lapping on the IHS of my core i5 750 too, would it be better? or its good enough only lapped cooler base? thanks


don't lap it, it will damage the pipes and you might ruin the entire thing


----------



## DeTTo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> don't lap it, it will damage the pipes and you might ruin the entire thing


but i've seen some pictures of lapped hyper 212 + on the net and it seems good, why do you think it will damage the pipes?


----------



## Pentium-David

I built a rig for my friend with a Pentium 4 Extreme Edition 3.73GHz and I used this thing to cool it, and it actually does a good job for such a hot CPU


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeTTo*
> 
> but i've seen some pictures of lapped hyper 212 + on the net and it seems good, why do you think it will damage the pipes?


Do you want to make a better contact chip, making a more flat surface?

If you lap the heatipes trying to make a more flat surface you are making the heatpipes walls thinner.
It's not really means a huge improvement on the heatsink.
Also you will run on risk going too far damaging the heatpipes walls.

From my understanding, any improvement expected doesn't worth the risk trying to modify the heatsink and makes it better after factory construction.


----------



## DeTTo

ok so if i dont lap my cooler base, how can i reduce the temperature of my CPU? i have putted a new thermal paste to the base like in this tutorial http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=5 and my temperatures in load (intel burn test) are (in celsius not degrees) :



so if you have any idea how to reduce it, please









my pc configuration is:

MB GIGABYTE GA P55 UD3
CPU Intel Core i5 750 overclocked to 3,4 GHz
Cooler is obvious







im really confused of it, because i think my cpu temperatures are so high :/

additional question, well if i dont lap cooler base, do you think that lapping the IHS of CPU will help?


----------



## Krusher33

Don't just lap it right away. Inspect first. There was a batch of 212+'s long ago that needed lapping because the pipes weren't touching the CPU. Inspect your cooler to see if the surface is flat.

And inspect your CPU. Stand a blade on it and see if there's any gaps. It helps to have a light behind it to see the gaps.

Most coolers and Intel CPU's are pretty decent enough that they don't need lapping.


----------



## chinesethunda

what he said


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> The Seidon 120M is Cooler Master's latest, incredibly compact watercooling kit that aims to bring watercooling to the masses. It fits in virtually every case, is compatible with every available Intel and AMD platform, and as easy to install as a heatsink. It comes factory filled, sealed and tested with a two year zero maintenance guarantee. Thanks to a 120mm PWM fan with a wide RPM range Seidon can operate silently or unleash a powerful cooling storm at your command.


Source


----------



## zubzero689

when i had air cooling i did have 212 evo but i switched to watercooling now. but i do say this was a great product when i had it


----------



## Conspiracy

so i ordered a 660 ti last night. not sure how much heat it generates but i was wondering if i should still plan to turn my 212 so that its top to bottom rather than front to back. im not expecting any change in temps just wondering what would be the best overall choice (if it matters) also the top exhaust fan is slightly higher performance than my rear exhaust. so im wondering if orienting the 212 towards the top exhaust might just make the overall flow of air and exhausting of heat more efficient maybe. still got to see if i can even orient my 212 that way without interfering with my ram.

i might also move the top exhaust fan to the side of the case which would give me 2 side intakes right on top of the card. and put the stock fan from a corsair H50 in the top exhaust which would be the highest performance fan in my case if i did that. im pretty sure this new video card will be somewhat loud which means no point in trying to keep noise down to a whisper lol









hmm. i might have an idea thats either dumb or possibly smart. i can take my SP120 and AF120 and do push/pull on the evo. then use stock evo fan for case exhaust and hope that isnt too loud to run my pc at night and not keep me up lol


----------



## chinesethunda

i'd just leave it as it is, you don't need to turn it


----------



## stellamonster7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> so i ordered a 660 ti last night. not sure how much heat it generates but i was wondering if i should still plan to turn my 212 so that its top to bottom rather than front to back. im not expecting any change in temps just wondering what would be the best overall choice (if it matters) also the top exhaust fan is slightly higher performance than my rear exhaust. so im wondering if orienting the 212 towards the top exhaust might just make the overall flow of air and exhausting of heat more efficient maybe. still got to see if i can even orient my 212 that way without interfering with my ram.
> i might also move the top exhaust fan to the side of the case which would give me 2 side intakes right on top of the card. and put the stock fan from a corsair H50 in the top exhaust which would be the highest performance fan in my case if i did that. im pretty sure this new video card will be somewhat loud which means no point in trying to keep noise down to a whisper lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hmm. i might have an idea thats either dumb or possibly smart. i can take my SP120 and AF120 and do push/pull on the evo. then use stock evo fan for case exhaust and hope that isnt too loud to run my pc at night and not keep me up lol


let us know how it turns out. chinesethunda is the man with testing in his sig (great info), but I'll be curious in general about the combination of hardware in terms of overall heat generated, regardless of orientation. I will be ordering a 660 once the BF ads come out to see if price improves.


----------



## Conspiracy

i think im going to test out of curiousity using the corsair SP/AF fans in push/pull with the AF in push and the SP in pull. and put a slightly more powerful fan as the main rear exhaust (either stock 212EVO fan or the stock fan from a corsair h50) after that im out of fans lol. but i think having a more powerful exhaust would benefit from the less powerful fans actually on the heatsink itself. makes sense in my head so i figure its worth testing out. just hope the extra noise doesnt annoy me too much lol

ok. just did the above. on the 212EVO the AF120 is push & SP120 is pull. rear case exhaust in back is fan from corsair h50 and top back rear is a semi-old scythe fan that is equivalent in specs to the AF120 for RPM and CFM

and now i wait and see how long i can put up with the massive noise being generated by the stock corsair h50 fan that has now slightly more than doubled the overall noise from my case lol


----------



## Captain Mayhem

It's been six days so far since I put in that order for the papst 4412m. I expect it to show up before friday of next week.. and then it will be onto testing for A) temperatures, and B) noise (subjective). with pics of course.

I expect great things from this fan.


----------



## ZipoT

Hello!

I have this cooler as well (It is for my brother's PC in fact). I have already installed it and I don't know why it happens, but the base of the cooler is not correctly aligned with the i5-3570k's IHS. The components I am using are these:

Case: Silverstone TJ08-E
Motherboard: Asrock Z77 Pro4-M
Processor: Intel Core i5-3570k
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO

Just for clarification purposes, the base of the cooler is completely covering the processor's IHS. It's just that it still might be better (more aligned).

Some photos:






I haven't finished the assembly of all the components of the system yet, so I don't know what temperature reach the processor yet. Do I finish the assembly of the PC and then look at the temperature or should I try to fix that misalignment first? What can I do to fix that misalignment between the cooler's base and the processor's surface? I'm not a skilful assembler, but I think I've followed the cooler's installation guide properly, so I don't know why that misalignment which you can notice in the photos above happens.

BTW, if you are wondering whether I've tried repeating the installation of the cooler, the answer is "yes": this is the second time I've installed it.

Cheers,

ZipoT


----------



## chinesethunda

i'm pretty sure you can move it a little so that it aligns, there's wiggle room even after you fully tighten the screws

as for the gpu heat, just put a fan behind your hdd cage to blow the air out the back and take off all of your pci slot covers


----------



## Conspiracy

new fan setup and gpu


----------



## RyanJC

Just pulled off both of my Blade Master fans to try and oil them only to find they don't have lubrication wells!


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RyanJC*
> 
> Just pulled off both of my Blade Master fans to try and oil them only to find they don't have lubrication wells!


Because they don't need


----------



## sinnedone

Recently swapped to a 212+ from a 92mm zalman. Added a second fan mostly for astheatics. Its seemed the second fan only netted me 1-3 degrees of difference.

Customized it a bit though.


















The front fan was on the ram heatsink and I needed to trim a mm or 2 to make it clear the ram and not sit up against it.


----------



## basedwise

Does anyone know if buying an extra BladeMaster fan will give the brackets that hold it onto the 212? I think I lost my extras that came with it


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> new fan setup and gpu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: pic


Congrats









Mind sharing your thoughts ?

Noise ? CFM ? Temps Difference ?

and for the 660 Ti: FPS (mention your graphic options too) ?

Thanks


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *basedwise*
> 
> Does anyone know if buying an extra BladeMaster fan will give the brackets that hold it onto the 212? I think I lost my extras that came with it


No, the Blade Master 120mm doesn't come with this blackets.

It only comes with 4 screws and the anti-vibration rubber pads.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> Congrats
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mind sharing your thoughts ?
> Noise ? CFM ? Temps Difference ?
> and for the 660 Ti: FPS (mention your graphic options too) ?
> Thanks


now that i have moved the stock case fan back where it was and put the corsair AF/SP in push/pull the cpu temps are about the same as the 212 with the blade master in my original setup within roughly 2 degrees. the new video card has little affect on cpu temps even while gaming the video card keeps itself fairly cool exhausting pretty much all its heat out the back. the 660Ti is also really quiet and doesnt add any extra noise. i think my only regret is getting the performance edition corsair fans instead of the quiet ones and using the volt limiter that comes with them as these fans running at max are perfectly fine for my current setup but i wouldnt suggest the quiet edition fans for someone doing a major overclock.

overall i have come to the realization that while have exhaust fans with higher cfm is great but when putting higher cfm fans as exhaust there was no improvement on temps as there already wasnt that much heat to exhaust anyway and really only resulted in a more annoying volume from my pc lol. so im happy with my setup. i would say if i had the 300R with the window then i would be more picky about the cables and fans matching but my case doesnt have a window so i cant see in there


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> now that i have moved the stock case fan back where it was and put the corsair AF/SP in push/pull the cpu temps are about the same as the 212 with the blade master in my original setup within roughly 2 degrees. the new video card has little affect on cpu temps even while gaming the video card keeps itself fairly cool exhausting pretty much all its heat out the back. the 660Ti is also really quiet and doesnt add any extra noise. i think my only regret is getting the performance edition corsair fans instead of the quiet ones and using the volt limiter that comes with them as these fans running at max are perfectly fine for my current setup but i wouldnt suggest the quiet edition fans for someone doing a major overclock.
> overall i have come to the realization that while have exhaust fans with higher cfm is great but when putting higher cfm fans as exhaust there was no improvement on temps as there already wasnt that much heat to exhaust anyway and really only resulted in a more annoying volume from my pc lol. so im happy with my setup. i would say if i had the 300R with the window then i would be more picky about the cables and fans matching but my case doesnt have a window so i cant see in there


Is the old fan the Blade Master or the Xtraflo 120?

The Blade Master is the Hyper 212+ stock fan.


----------



## Conspiracy

i have a blademaster from my 212EVO. it was too noisy for me so its no longer in my case


----------



## Khaled G

I actually enjoy the humming from my 2 blade masters










(To the point that I can't sleep if the computer is not folding)


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> I actually enjoy the humming from my 2 blade masters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (To the point that I can't sleep if the computer is not folding)


Hey Khaleg,

I looked at your current Avatar photo 7 of 8 and the fan isn't the Blade Master.
The fan seems to be the XtraFlo 120.

212 Evo stock fan - Xtraflo 120
http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6754

212+ stock fan - Blade Master
http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6622


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Hey Khaleg,
> 
> I looked at your current Avatar photo 7 of 8 and the fan isn't the Blade Master.
> The fan seems to be the XtraFlo 120.
> 
> 212 Evo stock fan - Xtraflo 120
> http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6754
> 
> 212+ stock fan - Blade Master
> http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6622


oops, Thanks for correcting me, so what's the difference regarding noise and performance ?


----------



## Conspiracy

both are loud and move plenty of air to keep your cpu cool


----------



## edsai

The Blademaster has higher static pressure than the XtraFlo.

But the XtraFlo has a better looking than the Blademaster. LOL


----------



## Layo

Hey, picking up my 212+EVO in few hours, I never installed fan, could anyone shortly tell me how to do it on 1155 mobo? Ill look up vids after.


----------



## Conspiracy

its easy. just look up vids before you install


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> both are loud and move plenty of air to keep your cpu cool


Anyone ever think, that since the two together don't really improve temps by too much, to lower the fan speed on a dual fan setup to match a single fan setup? If 1 fan gets you good performance, and 2 fans give slightly more good, make two fans do the work of one to lower the load on each, thus fan speed, and thus noise.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Hey, picking up my 212+EVO in few hours, I never installed fan, could anyone shortly tell me how to do it on 1155 mobo? Ill look up vids after.


Eh... Honestly, if it is the same way as a Hyper 212+, then it isnt' the easiest installation. Not extremely difficult, but I would say that you will need to look up a video rather than the instructions (I didn't think the instructins were that good.). If you ahve any questions, you can ask us... maybe even video call us so we can give better tips.

Just remember... Don't lift your heatsink after you have put it on teh thermal paste, as it will create air bubbles. Once it lands, don't pick it up.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Just remember... Don't lift your heatsink after you have put it on teh thermal paste, as it will create air bubbles. Once it lands, don't pick it up.


^ This !

1- You have to correctly position the back plate then screw it tight. (The tricky part, as it's double sided)
2- Apply your TIM using either the grain method or 2 parallel lines. (The grain method worked for me).
3- Decide how you will orient your heatsink (Horizontal or vertical), seat it and screw it tight. (Diagonally, evenly)
4- Connect your fan(s) and you're ready to go.

I have a 1155 mobo, If you need pics just tell me.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> ^ This !
> 1- You have to correctly position the back plate then screw it tight. (The tricky part, as it's double sided)
> 2- Apply your TIM using either the grain method or 2 parallel lines. (The grain method worked for me).
> 3- Decide how you will orient your heatsink (Horizontal or vertical), seat it and screw it tight. (Diagonally, evenly)
> 4- Connect your fan(s) and you're ready to go.
> I have a 1155 mobo, If you need pics just tell me.


Yeah. Good tips.

I had problems when I went to reapply thermal paste. When you install, you put your bracket screws and then you have more screws which screw into the head of the bracket screws. For some reason, I sorta forgot, and i left the mounting screws on the final screws and it made reseating a mess... I finally remembered and fixed my problem, but it botched that thermal paste install and I had to reclean and reapply.


----------



## basedwise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> No, the Blade Master 120mm doesn't come with this blackets.
> It only comes with 4 screws and the anti-vibration rubber pads.


Thanks! I managed to find the extras so now I can add another fan!

Do you basically just stick the 2 pieces on the new blade master fan just like the one that came with the 212? Also, how do you remove the thermal paste when you want to resea the heatsink? Is there a solution you need to apply to properly remove the old thermal paste?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *basedwise*
> 
> Thanks! I managed to find the extras so now I can add another fan!
> Do you basically just stick the 2 pieces on the new blade master fan just like the one that came with the 212? Also, how do you remove the thermal paste when you want to resea the heatsink? Is there a solution you need to apply to properly remove the old thermal paste?


To remove old thermal paste just use a few drops of alcohol and toilet paper to wipe it off.


----------



## xd9denz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> new fan setup and gpu


why you didnt pick two identical Corsair SP fans?

And why AF then SP Corsair FAN combination?


----------



## Layo

Picking up my 212+ in around hour then I'm gonna try to install it. Hope I wont break anything and i really hope I can even install it







Not sure where am I gonna point my fan to, either back or top... my GEIL rams are pretty high.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Picking up my 212+ in around hour then I'm gonna try to install it. Hope I wont break anything and i really hope I can even install it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure where am I gonna point my fan to, either back or top... my GEIL rams are pretty high.


I'll take and post some pics for the installation to help you out (and everyone else)

Make sure to check back here before you start the installation.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> I'll take and post some pics for the installation to help you out (and everyone else)
> Make sure to check back here before you start the installation.


Thank you. I got the idea, you screw there the backplate (how?







), do some work on cpu side, get the X part trough the heatpipes and mount it there. Should be like this, right?


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xd9denz*
> 
> why you didnt pick two identical Corsair SP fans?
> And why AF then SP Corsair FAN combination?


originally the AF fan was going to be my exhaust fan and the SP was going to be the only fan on the 212evo. but the AF fan seemed to not make a very good exhaust fan so i put the stock case fan back as exhaust since it overall seemed to perform a lot better.

so now the AF is in the front of the 212 pushing air in and the SP is on the back pulling it the rest of the way through and back. temps are actually much improved over just using the SP fan as a push by itself. these are also the quiet edition fans which arent crazy powerful


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> I'll take and post some pics for the installation to help you out (and everyone else)
> Make sure to check back here before you start the installation.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you. I got the idea, you screw there the backplate (how?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), do some work on cpu side, get the X part trough the heatpipes and mount it there. Should be like this, right?
Click to expand...

Give me a few minutes to upload the photos, I'll link them here


----------



## xd9denz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> originally the AF fan was going to be my exhaust fan and the SP was going to be the only fan on the 212evo. but the AF fan seemed to not make a very good exhaust fan so i put the stock case fan back as exhaust since it overall seemed to perform a lot better.
> so now the AF is in the front of the 212 pushing air in and the SP is on the back pulling it the rest of the way through and back. temps are actually much improved over just using the SP fan as a push by itself. these are also the quiet edition fans which arent crazy powerful


because me im planning to take 2 SP120 Corsair fan with an RPM of 2350 ....but why you didn't take two identical fans like SP120?


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Give me a few minutes to upload the photos, I'll link them here


Where are they!


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xd9denz*
> 
> because me im planning to take 2 SP120 Corsair fan with an RPM of 2350 ....but why you didn't take two identical fans like SP120?


my logic was probably flawed. but the deal that was going on actually made getting one of each cheaper than a 2 pack of the SP fans. i also did not think i would do a push/pull setup considering most tests didnt show any major performance gains or temperature drops. and my lack of overall knowledge of cooling which is still lacking is mainly to blame. but yeah my logic was use the SP for the heatsink and AF as exhaust. but i didnt realize how important it is for the exhaust to have more cfm to actually exhaust more air faster. and the stock case exhaust on my 300R has a higher cfm rating and even by placing my hand near the fan i could feel more air.
so now i have the stock corsair case exhaust and a scythe fan in the top as exhaust as well. i think at some point when i learn more and do more research on case fans ill upgrade my 2X exhaust fans to something better and leave the AF/SP corsair on the heastsink as it is and have my exhaust fans be more powerful like with cfm than my heatsink fans. i still have a lot to learn lol. my main goal when purchasing these fans was to replace the stock 212 fan because it was too loud and i wanted my computer to be quieter


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Give me a few minutes to upload the photos, I'll link them here
> 
> 
> 
> Where are they!
Click to expand...

Uploading !!! (34 Photos, 4224 x 2376 each)


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Uploading !!! (34 Photos, 4224 x 2376 each)


34 photos of what...?


----------



## xd9denz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> my logic was probably flawed. but the deal that was going on actually made getting one of each cheaper than a 2 pack of the SP fans. i also did not think i would do a push/pull setup considering most tests didnt show any major performance gains or temperature drops. and my lack of overall knowledge of cooling which is still lacking is mainly to blame. but yeah my logic was use the SP for the heatsink and AF as exhaust. but i didnt realize how important it is for the exhaust to have more cfm to actually exhaust more air faster. and the stock case exhaust on my 300R has a higher cfm rating and even by placing my hand near the fan i could feel more air.
> so now i have the stock corsair case exhaust and a scythe fan in the top as exhaust as well. i think at some point when i learn more and do more research on case fans ill upgrade my 2X exhaust fans to something better and leave the AF/SP corsair on the heastsink as it is and have my exhaust fans be more powerful like with cfm than my heatsink fans. i still have a lot to learn lol. my main goal when purchasing these fans was to replace the stock 212 fan because it was too loud and i wanted my computer to be quieter


ah you mean quieter than performance? ok now i got your point...next im goin to take 212 evo + 2 SP 12o fans and im goin to update here if i finish this one.....


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Uploading !!! (34 Photos, 4224 x 2376 each)
> 
> 
> 
> 34 photos of what...?
Click to expand...

Hyper 212 EVO installation guide

My internet is slow







but at least it's better than 56K


----------



## Layo

Kinda waiting for it


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Kinda waiting for it


Almost there (5 more minutes)


----------



## Khaled G

Here !!!


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Here !!!


nice job. thats better than watching a slow youtube video on how to do it


----------



## Khaled G

Thank you


----------



## chinesethunda

lol good job on the guide, i'll add it to the front page


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> lol good job on the guide, i'll add it to the front page


----------



## edsai

Hey folks,

I'm just curious, what is the expected idle and full load temps for the I7 ivy bridge like the 3770 or 3820 without over using the Hyper 212?

Is the Hyper 212 quiet even with the processor at full load?


----------



## Layo

Not that much quiet but milion times better then stock fan.

I also have Corsair 300R with those 2 corsair fans and they are pretty loud so keep that in mind too.
Great cooler overal.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Hey folks,
> I'm just curious, what is the expected idle and full load temps for the I7 ivy bridge like the 3770 or 3820 without over using the Hyper 212?
> Is the Hyper 212 quiet even with the processor at full load?


3820 is not Ivy.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> 3820 is not Ivy.


Hey wongwarren, thanks for correcting me.

Well, I have the Core I5 3550 and 212+ push pull.
I have no doubt that the 212+ are really quiet even running the Prime95.
The max temps goes to 50C with the fans around 750rpm-850rpm.

So I'm just curious if the 212 could be also quiet with the I7 ivy bridge without oc.


----------



## chinesethunda

yes it could be quiet


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrtoyotaco*
> 
> Too many fans IMO. But it looks cool. "MOAR FANS!!" Isn't always better. Go check out my testing. It is in my sig. FOR ME, adding anything to the top of my case with the EVO orientation like it is in your picture, either added temps or didn't make a difference.


So ?


----------



## chinesethunda

what does that even mean? you have 3 fans around your cooler, i bet if you took out all 3 fans it would cool just as well if not better


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> what does that even mean? you have 3 fans around your cooler, i bet if you took out all 3 fans it would cool just as well if not better


People can do whatever they like with their rig. It may not cool as well with those fans in place but it certainly looks good and if there's enough cooling power, why trade for more with looks??


----------



## Khaled G

The top fan made it worse so, I'll unplug it and see


----------



## Ramsey77

Made what worse? The temp of the CPU? There are other things on a motherboard to cool than just the CPU. Those top fans are exhausting heat, just because it doesn't affect the CPU's temp doesn't mean it ISN"T helping cool other components. I say the more air you have coming through the case the better. (...and it looks better too!) Just my two bits. Take it for what it's worth.


----------



## Bobos Khedr

I Have One


----------



## Bobos Khedr

I Have One


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> So ?


is this one of those micro cases? im confused trying to figure out how a case can have 3 fans like that so close to the motherboard. or is that fan on the right not the side of the case but mounted closer to the inside to help guide air from an intake fan that is mounted to the side of the case?


----------



## Khaled G

It's a CM storm enforcer case, and the fan on the right is tied to the 5.25" bays


----------



## chinesethunda

which isn't a bad idea, the top fan is kinda in the way though it messes with the air flow


----------



## SuperOcean

Hi everyone, i'd like to join this club as well. Hyper 212+ here.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperOcean*
> 
> Hi everyone, i'd like to join this club as well. Hyper 212+ here.


Still rocking a system with IDE huh?? Not bad.


----------



## SuperOcean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Still rocking a system with IDE huh?? Not bad.


Hi there,

This was my very first build on my own. I got a cheaper motherboard/chipset for learning purpose. Also, the E3300 seems like a good choice for learning about overclocking and stuff. My next build will def be a i5 3rd gen chip.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SuperOcean*
> 
> I got a cheaper motherboard/chipset for learning purpose.


Nothing wrong with that.


----------



## dja2k

Does the EVO use the same identical mounting hardware as the PLUS? Can anyone please confirm this for me, thanks!

dja2k


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dja2k*
> 
> Does the EVO use the same identical mounting hardware as the PLUS? Can anyone please confirm this for me, thanks!
> dja2k


Yes. In fact a lot of the Hyper coolers use identical mounting hardware.


----------



## rainbrodash666

hey guys, does the hyper 212+ fit fm2 socket, because I think I may get a a10 5800k for my next build.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> hey guys, does the hyper 212+ fit fm2 socket, because I think I may get a a10 5800k for my next build.


Yes if I'm not wrong.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> hey guys, does the hyper 212+ fit fm2 socket, because I think I may get a a10 5800k for my next build.


According To Cooler Master Website, It's compatible with: 775/1155/1156/1366/2011/AM2/AM2+/AM3/AM3+/FM1

and FM2 uses the same bracket as in FM1 for backward compatibility.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Sorry to inform you guys, but my ebm papst fan has not arrived yet. I will give it until the 17th to arrive and if it hasn't, I'll have to deal with it.

I hope they have an extra change of shorts on hand because after what i'm going to do, they'll need them.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

HEY what sup? what u guys think abt this CF VINYL on the heat sink  LOOKS COOL???


----------



## Conspiracy

that looks pretty cool


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> that looks pretty cool


thanks man!! did it free hand and i did not remove the fin


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> HEY what sup? what u guys think abt this CF VINYL on the heat sink
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOOKS COOL???


Looks awesome! How did you achieve this?


----------



## kmac20

Add me to the list!

And question: *can anyone recommend any good, QUIET, 120mm fans?* The one on there is pretty quiet already, but! I need to replace all of my 120MM case fans with more quiet ones, regardless. So, I figured this recommendation would be cross applicable.

Thanks everyone!


----------



## Conspiracy

i have corsair SP120 quiet edition and AF120 quiet edition in push/pull on my 212EVO and its not even audible. my computer is not quiet... its silent


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmac20*
> 
> Add me to the list!
> And question: *can anyone recommend any good, QUIET, 120mm fans?* The one on there is pretty quiet already, but! I need to replace all of my 120MM case fans with more quiet ones, regardless. So, I figured this recommendation would be cross applicable.
> Thanks everyone!


I'm a Cougar Vortex HDB 140mm owner.
It's a quiet fan.
There's also the Vortex HDB 120mm:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553001

This one is the black version:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553005

There's a test about this fan. Look the page 11, post #103.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks


----------



## kmac20

Thanks amigos, I appreciate the help and input. I actually just found that thread before I read your post. Great minds and all that. And as I said, its not that the CM 212 Evo included fan is loud, but rather the rest of my 120mm case fans are loud. I figure if i'm going to replace those, I might as well grab another for the CM and do push/pull like you.


----------



## hotwheels1997

Have it on my i5-3570k @ 4.8GHz 1.35V Max temp in prime around 80,in games around 60-65C .Love this cooler.I Have the "plus" version.Using it in small case,perfect fit !!!
P.S.I use terribly airflowed case so temps in good case are around 10-15C lower


----------



## Conspiracy

now i want to change the color of the top of my 212 EVO to something. maybe black. trying to think of a way to do that without having to remove the top fin. first idea was black sharpie but that would look sooo bad lol


----------



## kmac20

Hey guys a new 212Evo user here, and I just wanna check and see how my temps sound. I sometimes mess up seating coolers, as I have hand tremors. It makes it very difficult to get it on well and make sure I dont lift it after it goes there. For the record, I used Arctic Silver 5, tinned the sink, did a line down the proc, etc. But whenever I actually place it down my hand always slips, or shakes, or twists, or whatever, and I'm always worried its not seated right. Cooler anxiety, if you will.

Its a 3570k (ivy) oc'd to 4.1, auto voltages at the moment. I idle around 30C. Max it hit during a few hours (4) of prime95 earlier was 70. Usually does around 64-68 during load.

My first core usually runs about 7-9 cooler, although I am very aware that a core here or there may have a variance. The other 3 usually run pretty close to one another.

So guys, should I have lower temps with this modest OC? Does these sound right to anyone? I just always get a bit concerned b/c as a day or two goes by, temps seem to go up. I know the AS 5 has a long break in, so once again just may be that cooler anxiety over seating issues I may have.

And by the way, does anyone else always worry that they seated their coolers incorrectly? Am I the only one who gets "cooler anxiety?


----------



## Conspiracy

Get off auto volts and OC manually. But those temps seem about right in the range of results. Depends on fan setup as well since that is an important factor


----------



## broadbandaddict

Hey I might as well join this as well. Just got done painting mine.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> now i want to change the color of the top of my 212 EVO to something. maybe black. trying to think of a way to do that without having to remove the top fin. first idea was black sharpie but that would look sooo bad lol


Just put paper in the fins and spray the top, works great.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *broadbandaddict*
> 
> Hey I might as well join this as well. Just got done painting mine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> now i want to change the color of the top of my 212 EVO to something. maybe black. trying to think of a way to do that without having to remove the top fin. first idea was black sharpie but that would look sooo bad lol
> 
> 
> 
> Just put paper in the fins and spray the top, works great.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

I've seen people use a CD cut in half to remove the top fin. Seems to work very well.

But anyway... I think I might do that. Paint mine blue. What type of paint are you using btw?


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> I've seen people use a CD cut in half to remove the top fin. Seems to work very well.
> But anyway... I think I might do that. Paint mine blue. What type of paint are you using btw?


I used some Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer and then sprayed it with some Krylon Engine Paint. If you don't want to spray primer first you could probably get by using Krylon Fusion, or pretty much any other spray paint.

It turned out really nice this way and if you are careful not to spray at too much of an angle you won't get any on the lower fins. Plus if you have paint and a piece of paper it won't cost anything extra.


----------



## Conspiracy

Is there any negative effect from the tops of the copper pipes having paint on them?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Is there any negative effect from the tops of the copper pipes having paint on them?


Since they are probably the least effective fins due to little heat making its way up there... I would suspect not.


----------



## Conspiracy

Cool. If i find some black spraypaint i might guve it a go


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Looks awesome! How did you achieve this?


um first i stuck tape on the heat sink took a pen and outline the groves,then PEELED off the tape stuck it to a business card and make trace cuts with a surgical blade to get a template, finally traced it on the CF 3M VINYL AND THAT WAS ABT IT







did not even had to remove the FIN!  REP+ for trying something different?


----------



## dja2k

I am sure the answer is somewhere inside this thread but searching couldn't find it.. CPU Pea size BB or Cross X method for MX-4 for Hyper EVO? Thanks!

dja2k


----------



## Conspiracy

i did cross method and have great results with my 212EVO.

i dont think there is any one definitive method that is best because everyone has personal opinion about each one. there is a video one youtube that shows how the TIM spreads from each method


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dja2k*
> 
> I am sure the answer is somewhere inside this thread but searching couldn't find it.. CPU Pea size BB or Cross X method for MX-4 for Hyper EVO? Thanks!
> dja2k


Personally, I'm in favor of a rice grain amount. The size of a pea is easily underestimated, see here, a pea is huge! A rice grain is all you need, it'll easily spread all across the CPU.

The reason I don't like cross or line methods is that it is really easy to overdo it. IMO, with the cross method, you always overdo it (unless you have some special device to apply it).

edit: the surface of the EVO is also much smoother than on the Plus. With the Plus, I can somewhat understand arguments for a two line method, but with the EVO, it'll spread just fine.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> (unless you have some special device to apply it).


hmm







why has no one invented that yet?


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> hmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> why has no one invented that yet?


Haha a good question indeed







. Guess it's just not fun without fear


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Haha a good question indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Guess it's just not fun without fear


yeah. i found it a hassle the entire process of installing a heatsink. primarily the part of just seating the cooler and fiddling with the bracket to get in positioned to start screwing it down especially with the cooler sliding around a little bit because of the thermal paste. my lack of experience working with computers probably is the main factor as to why it was a pain for me probably. really makes me want one of those CLC like the new H80i. looks so easy to install. just soooo overkill for my pc lol


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> yeah. i found it a hassle the entire process of installing a heatsink. primarily the part of just seating the cooler and fiddling with the bracket to get in positioned to start screwing it down especially with the cooler sliding around a little bit because of the thermal paste. my lack of experience working with computers probably is the main factor as to why it was a pain for me probably. really makes me want one of those CLC like the new H80i. looks so easy to install. just soooo overkill for my pc lol


We'll I've done quite a couple now but I had _exactly_ the same issues with this cooler. It was so hard to align (you barely have any reference whatsoever) that you almost have to move it around a bit to get it perfectly aligned with the screw holes. Turned out OK in the end though









I've worked with a corsair H60 and that one is really really easy to install. There is barely any possibility for making mistakes, there's only one way to align it with the CPU and once you've done that it won't move around at all. I'm drooling over these new H80 models as well







, I'm just a bit worried about noise (waiting for reviews).


----------



## kmac20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Get off auto volts and OC manually. But those temps seem about right in the range of results. Depends on fan setup as well since that is an important factor


I have 1 fan on it atm. Got a good airflow setup in the case, so I'm not concerned about the fan.

Always concerned about the _seating._ As I said, I don't have the most steady hands, and am always unsure whether its seated properly or not. Whether the thermal grease line spread correctly or not. Any way I can check any of this without having to take it off, clean it, reapply, etc?

Because if it aint broken....last time I unnecessarily reapplied thermal grease, I bent a few pins in my socket (longggg story). Never going to _unnecessarily_ do that again.

BUT! If I _know_ it is incorrect, I'm more than willing to invest the time into correctly seating it. Its jsut a bigggg headache. My case is older, doesn't have a mobo tray. Meaning it is much harder to reapply the sink, as I literally need to take the _entire build apart_

SO! *30C idle, 60-70 load, Voltage ~1.20v, 4.1ghz* (41 multi), *does this sound normal on the 212EVO*? I feel like this is a bit high for this OC, considering people on stock do similar ones and have comparable temperatures...

_Am I simply expecting too much from the Evo?_

Also I am oing manual voltages now. I was enjoying that auto, but was getting stability issues when it would scale the volts too much/little. So I went back to old school: manual everything. Thanks for the advice regarding that btw.


----------



## Conspiracy

i think you are expecting too much maybe. those are the temps i get on my current setup but i have a 3770 at 4GHz. i usually stay in the low 60's under load while folding but sometimes ill get WU that is bigger or whatever and my temps have made it up to 67. i have only gone up to 70 when running a stress test like prime95


----------



## kmac20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> i think you are expecting too much maybe. those are the temps i get on my current setup but i have a 3770 at 4GHz. i usually stay in the low 60's under load while folding but sometimes ill get WU that is bigger or whatever and my temps have made it up to 67. i have only gone up to 70 when running a stress test like prime95


Thanks a lot amigo. I thought that might be the case. But as I said, I get a TON of "cooler seating anxiety." I figured I was expecting too much from a 30$ cooler. Once again though, my hands aren't steady, and _it wouldn't be the first time I improperly seated a cooler_. I also am always worried that I **** up the AS5, because I never put the cooler on straight, meaning I need to do a good bit more than a "quarter twist" to spread that AS5.

No lie, I actually had a dream last night that my 212 EVO fell off because it wasn't seated! And that it "slipped off" again after I stuck it back and rebooted, and I FREAKED because I effectively fried the cpu. Weird dream, I guess that seating anxiety is real to me!

But yeah, I get 70C after P95. Just had been hoping to get a bigger OC. I almost went 2500K for this very reason, I love OC'ing on air. I ended up convinced that a less OC'd 3570k is just as good as a higher OC'd 2500k.

Thanks again mate!


----------



## Frozenoblivion

I got one from Newegg.ca


----------



## MatijaInSpace

I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for some time now. It's doing a good job for now.
Can anyone tell me would i gain something with second fan on back.
Experience??? Thank you.
Here's my rig.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatijaInSpace*
> 
> I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for some time now. It's doing a good job for now.
> Can anyone tell me would i gain something with second fan on back.
> Experience??? Thank you.
> Here's my rig.


in my experience nope, look how close the rear exhaust fan is. Probably the reason why a fan on back doesn't make any dif in temps.


----------



## sinnedone

Yeah.

I only gained 1 to maybe 3 degrees tops by adding a second fan.

I did it mostly for asthetics sake though.


----------



## MatijaInSpace

My thoughts exactly.







I have my my FX-4100 working on 4.65GHz stable and with max temp around 60 C.
Now i push it to the 4.8GHz but i think 212+ is not up to task







I need just little more degrees down.
And i know i'm not being real and i need for that H2O or LN2.








But here is valid http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2579107


----------



## Alastair

Second fan helps a little, like 3C. Its not an earth-shattering difference. But if your going for the highest overclock you can get then those extra 3C's of room might make a world of difference!


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Second fan helps a little, like 3C. Its not an earth-shattering difference. But if your going for the highest overclock you can get then those extra 3C's of room might make a world of difference!


Somebody should test this. See about audio performance for 1 fan versus two. Have the one fan go for a temperature, and see how slow you can have two fans spinning to create the same temp. Then, see if the two fans combined audio signature is lower than the single fan.

I would check this... but I don't have a second blademaster or a way to control my fans.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatijaInSpace*
> 
> I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212+ for some time now. It's doing a good job for now.
> Can anyone tell me would i gain something with second fan on back.
> Experience??? Thank you.
> Here's my rig.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've also usually heard that adding a second fan could only drop a few degrees.

But there's some luck guys that had a nice improvement just adding a second fan:

Post #14 by virtualelvis about his 212 Evo
I just hooked a second fan up for push pull .. seems like it cooled the cpu another 7c when playing BF3

http://www.overclock.net/t/1240651/will-this-fit

It's a great chance that a second fan doesn't help much the temps or maybe gives only a bit less noise.

But in my opinion the second fan still worths for a better looking for the heatsink. LOL
I can't leave my 212+ with only one fan without the feeling that something is missing or wrong. LOL


----------



## Conspiracy

i think if anything unless you arent using the stock fan that comes with the 212 adding a second fan helps move air through the fins more efficiently. but if you are using the stock fan that comes with like the 212EVO you dont really need another fan unless you just want to. that stock fan is pretty beast and loud


----------



## MatijaInSpace

I am using stock 212+ fan http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6622 if i'm gonna add i' gonna add the same one.

Or maybe to add one http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6754 (for 212 EVO) it looks better but i think they are the same.
this one can also fit


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatijaInSpace*
> 
> I am using stock 212+ fan http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6622 if i'm gonna add i' gonna add the same one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe to add one http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6754 (for 212 EVO) it looks better but i think they are the same.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this one can also fit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I've heard from other owners that the Excalibur has strong airflow but it's rather loud.

There's a review about this fan:

Good Things
PWM fan control
Easy Clean Option
Honeycomb vents
High Pressure Design
Good for Case and Water

Bad Things
Bad for heatsinks
Mounting posts require longer screws
Blade design for pressure not focused airflow

http://www.ninjalane.com/reviews/cooling/cm_excalibur

The Blade Master (Plus fan) has better static pressure than the XtraFlo (Evo fan).

I'm using the 212+ with 2 XtraFlo fans.
I'm only using the XtraFlo fan because when I purchased the 212+ I didn't find another Blade Master for push pull.

I never tried the Blade Master as heatsink fan, I only used it as case fan.

Both are loud at higher speed.
I'm not really sure but the XtraFlo at higher speed seems to have a bit loud motor noise than the Blade Master.


----------



## Bobos Khedr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> HEY what sup? what u guys think abt this CF VINYL on the heat sink  LOOKS COOL???


Very Cool


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bobos Khedr*
> 
> Very Cool


thanks BUD i just wanted to be different maybe share my IDEA


----------



## sinnedone

I did something similar but not as cool as cf to make the cooler match my graphics cards some.


----------



## Conspiracy

dang now i have to paint the top fin on mine something. gotta follow the "in" crow haha


----------



## Bobos Khedr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> I did something similar but not as cool as cf to make the cooler match my graphics cards some.


And Your fan also cool


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> dang now i have to paint the top fin on mine something. gotta follow the "in" crow haha


I will do mine... probably about the same time I paint the interior of my case.


----------



## Alastair

Im not going to paint mine anytime soon. I really dont want to take the cooler off at this point. its sitting in there nicely and the mx-4 is working down there quite happily. Ill keep time normal for a while.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Im not going to paint mine anytime soon. I really dont want to take the cooler off at this point. its sitting in there nicely and the mx-4 is working down there quite happily. Ill keep time normal for a while.


You don't have to remove it to paint the top. Just use a broken CD to remove the top fin.


----------



## Conspiracy

im curious as to how hard, if any at all, it is to remove the top fin using a CD with the cooler still attached to the mobo. if they have small spraypaint cans at walmart i could totally paint the top fin holding it up with a paperclip. its been so long since i used spray paint i cant remember if there are different types for metal


----------



## Catscratch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> found my #2 screwdriver and switched the stock fan to pull so i wouldnt have to worry about the fan sitting and to clear my ram. also the side of the case was pushing against the fan because it had to sit so high. now i have no problems with everything fitting. and i think it might have even improved slightly by like 2 degrees lolz


Hey conspiracy, it's an old post of yours but if you are still using this setup, you could try putting a 14/12cm top fan, remove exhaust fan and reverse the cpu fan. This way it's speed is not hindered by the exhaust fan and it can get air from outside and the top fan will suck the hot air from cpu sink to outside. If you are worried about vrms then you could put a second fan at top.

Just a thought.


----------



## dja2k

Well going from a Hyper212+ to the EVO raised my temps about 6°C, so something ain't right. I used the cross method applying MX-4, maybe I should shoot for the rice-grain/pea-sized dot method.

dja2k


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dja2k*
> 
> Well going from a Hyper212+ to the EVO raised my temps about 6°C, so something ain't right. I used the cross method applying MX-4, maybe I should shoot for the rice-grain/pea-sized dot method.
> 
> dja2k


quite possible its too much paste.. using any line method the lines need to be really small... thats why i like the rice grain size and let the cooler spread it around


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catscratch*
> 
> Hey conspiracy, it's an old post of yours but if you are still using this setup, you could try putting a 14/12cm top fan, remove exhaust fan and reverse the cpu fan. This way it's speed is not hindered by the exhaust fan and it can get air from outside and the top fan will suck the hot air from cpu sink to outside. If you are worried about vrms then you could put a second fan at top.
> Just a thought.


i now have corsair quiet edition fans in push/pull on my 212 but i still moved my rear exhaust to the top to make it a top exhaust see it that helps. i can fell my fans in p/p moving air around but only when i put my hand behind the pull fan. because they are quiet edition fans they dont move that much air. but they seem to at least work. my CPU is staying around 55*C while folding so moving that exhaust fan helped like 1-2 degrees maybe. but when folding each WU will work your pc differently. some WU's make your pc run hotter than others while working on them so it could just be that. but either way im not OCD about the inside of my case so i dont mind not having a fan on the rear exhaust fan spot and leaving it open

this is what it looks like except the rear exhaust obviously moved and that top exhaust in the photo is not longer in my case. the stock exhaust case fan is now in the side of my case feeding fresh air to my gpu and cooling whatever mobo chipset is under the gpu


----------



## AnAngryKoala

Here's a picture of my 212+ in my storm scout:



I have a CM Sickleflow R4 mounted on it.

Since this photo. I have removed the top exhaust fan, (moved very little air) and replaced the back solid red exhaust fan with another R4.


----------



## rainbrodash666

I have a red led r4 as the top exhaust in my case and every once in a while it will start having bad bearing noise and I have to take it apart and lube the bearings, I just use sewing machine oil or petroleum jelly, the petroleum jelly works for the longest so far 3 months, but the r4 in my opinion is just noisy anyway loudest normal running fan in my rig. oh but here is some updated pics of my rig. I finally added that window I was talking about a while ago, and went to a R6850 instead of two R5770's. sorry for the dust, I am out of canned air and don't want to turn on my compressor this early in the morning


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> I have a red led r4 as the top exhaust in my case and every once in a while it will start having bad bearing noise and I have to take it apart and lube the bearings, I just use sewing machine oil or petroleum jelly, the petroleum jelly works for the longest so far 3 months, but the r4 in my opinion is just noisy anyway loudest normal running fan in my rig. oh but here is some updated pics of my rig. I finally added that window I was talking about a while ago, and went to a R6850 instead of two R5770's. sorry for the dust, I am out of canned air and don't want to turn on my compressor this early in the morning
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I believe the R4 is loud only at higher speed, isn't it?

I have tree 120mm fans (Akasa Viper 1900rpm, Blade Master 2000rpm and XtraFlo 2000rpm).
Both are loud at higher speed.

But I hooked them in the fan header, so they're quiet enough for me.


----------



## rainbrodash666

yeah, my mobo (ASRock A770DE+) does not control the fans plugged into the 3pin headers(at least I think) so it runs at 100% all of the time, it is annoying. but I am planing on upgrading to an AMD A10 5800k and 8gigs of ddr3 1600. so I don't think I will buy a fan controller or inline resistor


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rainbrodash666*
> 
> yeah, my mobo (ASRock A770DE+) does not control the fans plugged into the 3pin headers(at least I think) so it runs at 100% all of the time, it is annoying. but I am planing on upgrading to an AMD A10 5800k and 8gigs of ddr3 1600. so I don't think I will buy a fan controller or inline resistor


I don't know about the ASRock board but I've heard that the 3-pin Chassis Headers from Asus boards don't control the fan speed.

My Asus board comes with 4-pin chassis headers that control both 3-pin and 4-pin fans.
The CPU fan only controls 4-pin fans.


----------



## sinnedone

I have an Asus P8P67 Pro and it has one 4 pin and one 3 pin chassis fan header and both control fan speed on my sickle flow coolermaster 120mm case fans.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Now that's not a very useful post to anyone, is it? You might have reasons for not liking the Sickleflow R4, but I would say at least share your arguments. Besides that, it's not a very nice reply either. The guy's just showing of his rig and all you say is "R4 sucks".
> I hear the Sickleflow can actually be very decent (example comparison against other CM fans). Shouldn't be too noisy, they look good to me (except maybe the cable), it's very cheap, and I hear about a lot of people being happy with these fans. OK, it might not be the best on a heatsink (they are more oriented towards airflow, not static pressure I believe), but I wouldn't know about the performance in practice.
> @AnAngryKoala: your rig looks cool to me sir! How are those fans performing on your 212+?


120mm Fan Round Up Part 2: Fan Harder

The R4 (Sickleflow) has the fourth highest static pressure and air flow among the 18 fans that they've tested, but it is the worst performer.


----------



## Alastair

In many of the fan reviews I haven't actually seen anybody test out the xtra flo's? So we dont really know at this point how the reviews think they stack up do we?


----------



## phre0n

if ups decides to show up tommorow, i'll have these to put on my 212....










http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181027


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> 120mm Fan Round Up Part 2: Fan Harder
> The R4 (Sickleflow) has the fourth highest static pressure and air flow among the 18 fans that they've tested, but it is the worst performer.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In my opinion, for who already have the R4 is better only use them as case fan.
For the heatsink is better to try a better fan.

I would recommend to replace the R4 unless the people don't tight on the budget.


----------



## AnAngryKoala

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Now that's not a very useful post to anyone, is it? You might have reasons for not liking the Sickleflow R4, but I would say at least share your arguments. Besides that, it's not a very nice reply either. The guy's just showing of his rig and all you say is "R4 sucks".
> I hear the Sickleflow can actually be very decent (example comparison against other CM fans). Shouldn't be too noisy, they look good to me (except maybe the cable), it's very cheap, and I hear about a lot of people being happy with these fans. OK, it might not be the best on a heatsink (they are more oriented towards airflow, not static pressure I believe), but I wouldn't know about the performance in practice.
> @AnAngryKoala: your rig looks cool to me sir! How are those fans performing on your 212+?


I get great performance from it. My temps average about 28C. Under load they only go up to about 52C


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> In many of the fan reviews I haven't actually seen anybody test out the xtra flo's? So we dont really know at this point how the reviews think they stack up do we?


Maybe is because the XtraFlo fan series aren't common in the US sellers, except for the CM's store, which aren't cheap.


----------



## chinesethunda

Spread the word, you can now add yourself to the club!!, check first page for details!


----------



## Conspiracy

cool









just added myself


----------



## phre0n

well, i got my fans today, just need to quite them down a little bit....


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phre0n*
> 
> well, i got my fans today, just need to quite them down a little bit....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Are these 3-pin fans the SP120 Quiet or Performance Edition?

The Performance Edition comes with a adapter for lower speed operation.

I have the board Asus (P8Z77-V LX).
The CPU header controls only 4-pin PWM fans.
The 3-pin fans hooked in the CPU header spin at full blast.

The Chassis header can control both 4-pin and 3-pin fans.
But I don't recommend to hook the heatsink fans in the Chassis Fan headers because there's a risk by the board turn off the fans hooked in the Chassis Fan headers to save energy.

The Asus EPU utility can turn off all the fans hooked in the Chassis headers.
Only the fans hooked in the CPU header remains spinning.


----------



## phre0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Are these 3-pin fans the SP120 Quiet or Performance Edition?
> The Performance Edition comes with a adapter for lower speed operation.
> I have the board Asus (P8Z77-V LX).
> The CPU header controls only 4-pin PWM fans.
> The 3-pin fans hooked in the CPU header spin at full blast.
> The Chassis header can control both 4-pin and 3-pin fans.
> But I don't recommend to hook the heatsink fans in the Chassis Fan headers because there's a risk by the board turn off the fans hooked in the Chassis Fan headers to save energy.
> The Asus EPU utility can turn off all the fans hooked in the Chassis headers.
> Only the fans hooked in the CPU header remains spinning.


Yes they are the Performance Edition fans, I just hooked up the adapter and its much better, they are rolling along at 1700rpm and thats fine with me.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

THIS bothered me today ....
hey guys is it possible to make a fan bracket for the heat sink, just in case of future removal changing out fans one happen to SNAP!!
u guys got any homemade ideas for recreating the brackets ??


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> THIS bothered me today ....
> hey guys is it possible to make a fan bracket for the heat sink, just in case of future removal changing out fans one happen to SNAP!!
> u guys got any homemade ideas for recreating the brackets ??


probably paper clips. i think i saw a DIY guide to making paperclip brackets for megalahems somewhere


----------



## triggdev

Hey guys!

I'm thinking about joining the club, but I'm not sure if this cooler will get in the way of my ram. I plan on using 2 fans in push pull.

Do you think I would have trouble with these?
RAM
MotherBoard


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triggdev*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I'm thinking about joining the club, but I'm not sure if this cooler will get in the way of my ram. I plan on using 2 fans in push pull.
> Do you think I would have trouble with these?
> RAM
> MotherBoard


Given the fact you're using low profile memory, I don't think you'll run into trouble. Besides that, you probably won't even reach the ram (the cooler is not that wide). See my (spare) rig for example:



I don't think you'll have any problems whatsoever


----------



## MatijaInSpace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Somebody should test this. See about audio performance for 1 fan versus two. Have the one fan go for a temperature, and see how slow you can have two fans spinning to create the same temp. Then, see if the two fans combined audio signature is lower than the single fan.
> I would check this... but I don't have a second blademaster or a way to control my fans.


Where did you guys find cable from 2 x 4-pin cable to one, or you all have two on mb. i'm gonna have problem with that.








best way is if both fans are on the same controller . if i connect second on "sis_fan" i'm gonna have diferent RPMs, not really good


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatijaInSpace*
> 
> Where did you guys find cable from 2 x 4-pin cable to one, or you all have two on mb. i'm gonna have problem with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> best way is if both fans are on the same controller . if i connect second on "sis_fan" i'm gonna have diferent RPMs, not really good


I bought the "Turbo Edition" which includes a second fan and the cable to connect both to the cpu fan header, I got 2 pics to the cable in the guide in my sig, one of the 2 connectors have a missing pin to eliminate errors when reporting fan speeds, so it runs and controls 2 fans but sows speed of only 1 of them (assuming that the second will run at the same speed).

Try to find a similar connector.


----------



## triggdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Given the fact you're using low profile memory, I don't think you'll run into trouble. Besides that, you probably won't even reach the ram (the cooler is not that wide). See my (spare) rig for example:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think you'll have any problems whatsoever


Cool, thanks!

I'm about to order the MB, Ram, and CPU +cooler once my bank decides to make my deposit available.
Can't wait!

EDIT:
Just ordered everything, and Newegg was nice enough to buy me 2 fans for my CPU Cooler, which would you recommend?


----------



## xd9denz

Does this 212 evo have same height with the NOCTUA-NHD14 CPU cooler....................... or this evo is taller than D14? anyone can help me to figure out.....


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xd9denz*
> 
> Does this 212 evo have same height with the NOCTUA-NHD14 CPU cooler....................... or this evo is taller than D14? anyone can help me to figure out.....


1 mm difference.

212 EVO: 120x80x*159*
NH-D14:160x140x*158*

212 EVO
NH-D14


----------



## keesgelder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triggdev*
> 
> Cool, thanks!
> I'm about to order the MB, Ram, and CPU +cooler once my bank decides to make my deposit available.
> Can't wait!
> EDIT:
> Just ordered everything, and Newegg was nice enough to buy me 2 fans for my CPU Cooler, which would you recommend?


Nice! What CPU are you going to use?

_If_ you want to replace the fan on the 212 EVO (the stock fan is pretty good though), I would personally take a nice set of those Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition fans. Nice and quiet while they perform quite well at the same time (they perform somewhat less than the performance editions but these are rather loud). Also, I think they look great and I hear nothing but good stories about them. There's a lot of different opinions on fans though (and it's also a somewhat personal choice), so maybe someone else here has a different view on the matter.

Please note that most of the people here did not notice much difference of push pull vs. a single fan. Maybe a couple of degrees (3-5).


----------



## triggdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keesgelder*
> 
> Nice! What CPU are you going to use?
> _If_ you want to replace the fan on the 212 EVO (the stock fan is pretty good though), I would personally take a nice set of those Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition fans. Nice and quiet while they perform quite well at the same time (they perform somewhat less than the performance editions but these are rather loud). Also, I think they look great and I hear nothing but good stories about them. There's a lot of different opinions on fans though (and it's also a somewhat personal choice), so maybe someone else here has a different view on the matter.
> Please note that most of the people here did not notice much difference of push pull vs. a single fan. Maybe a couple of degrees (3-5).


Well, I wasn't planning on getting push/pull, but I got that gift card lol.
I'm getting an IB 3570k

I'm thinking these.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triggdev*
> 
> Well, I wasn't planning on getting push/pull, but I got that gift card lol.
> I'm getting an IB 3570k
> I'm thinking these.


Don't go for AF (airflow) because on a heat-sink / radiator you want static pressure (SP).


----------



## Conspiracy

also get the performance editions unless you dont plan on overclocking. the quiet editions leave you wanting more


----------



## xd9denz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> 1 mm difference.
> 212 EVO: 120x80x*159*
> NH-D14:160x140x*158*
> 212 EVO
> NH-D14


Thank you so much bro....


----------



## triggdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Don't go for AF (airflow) because on a heat-sink / radiator you want static pressure (SP).


Hmm, that makes sense. I wasn't sure what SP and AF meant.

What about these?

And can you get rubber mounts for a heatsink? I don't want these to vibrate and make noise.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triggdev*
> 
> Hmm, that makes sense. I wasn't sure what SP and AF meant.
> What about these?
> And can you get rubber mounts for a heatsink? I don't want these to vibrate and make noise.


No the R4 is terrible as a heat-sink fan. Cooler Master lied about the specifications of that fan. The stock fan that comes on the Hyper 212 Plus is the best.

My version of the heat-sink cones with plastic fan brackets that has rubber vibrations dampening pads, I don't know about the metal fan clip version


----------



## triggdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> No the R4 is terrible as a heat-sink fan. Cooler Master lied about the specifications of that fan. The stock fan that comes on the Hyper 212 Plus is the best.
> My version of the heat-sink cones with plastic fan brackets that has rubber vibrations dampening pads, I don't know about the metal fan clip version


Hmm, Interesting. Well I wish I could get some decent blue LED ones, just because I think LED fans on a CPU cooler looks really cool.
I guess I'll go with the high performance Corsair ones. What version of the heatsink do you have? I bought the EVO for the heatpipes.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *triggdev*
> 
> Hmm, Interesting. Well I wish I could get some decent blue LED ones, just because I think LED fans on a CPU cooler looks really cool.
> I guess I'll go with the high performance Corsair ones. What version of the heatsink do you have? I bought the EVO for the heatpipes.


I have the Plus because when I bought it the Eco wasn't even announced.


----------



## triggdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I have the Plus because when I bought it the Eco wasn't even announced.


Ohh, I thought you were saying that your version of the heatsink had rubber corners. I see now that you were talking about the fans.


----------



## Kilrt

Hello folks.

Like to join.

Ge Wiz I would have never thaught to se such a following for a CPU cooler.
Just goes to show you what happens when you put Value++ with function++.

When I outlined my build to my friend Jeff At the langley NCIX he threw the 212 in the build and I thaught " I'll upgrade later this can't be worth a damn at that price".
Well I'm sitting on this cooler because this thing can't be beat at any price. (OK, from what I've seen, $100 more buys you 1 degree c.on air)
I baught and attached the coolermaster 120mm 4 pin fan on the other side for the pull , just because.
The engineering is so tight, I use GSkill tridents and the 212 + fans sit just inside the ram fins.NICE.
The left ram cooler needed some mods to accomodate the RIVE 6pin power connector.
No biggie.
Excellent part.


----------



## bhardy1185

I'm sure this has been asked before but I honestly don't feel like digging through all these pages. I have a 212+ I bought several years ago that I have never used







About the buy a 3570k and was wondering if it was decent cooler for it and also some recommended speeds (as to not over heat the cpu). Leaning towards going WC in the future but don't have the budget for it right now. Thanks for the input.


----------



## MatijaInSpace

I just installed second fan on my 212+ and on the start i saw results but i have a problem with connection.








I don't have Y cable so my second fan is connected on "sis_fan1" but even with half speed on second one(~800rpm) the temperature are lower for 2-3 degrees. And fans are not sinhronised so that could bee even better when i find solution for all fans.
And i cant keep them on full speed, 2 x 2000rpm


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> I'm sure this has been asked before but I honestly don't feel like digging through all these pages. I have a 212+ I bought several years ago that I have never used
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the buy a 3570k and was wondering if it was decent cooler for it and also some recommended speeds (as to not over heat the cpu). Leaning towards going WC in the future but don't have the budget for it right now. Thanks for the input.


It is a decent cooler for the 3570K. As for recommended speeds it really depends on your particular processor.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatijaInSpace*
> 
> I just installed second fan on my 212+ and on the start i saw results but i have a problem with connection.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have Y cable so my second fan is connected on "sis_fan1" but even with half speed on second one(~800rpm) the temperature are lower for 2-3 degrees. And fans are not sinhronised so that could bee even better when i find solution for all fans.
> And i cant keep them on full speed, 2 x 2000rpm


Do you have to have push pull??


----------



## MatijaInSpace

?? have to have?


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Do you have to have push pull??


no you dont. in some situations doing a push/pull with both fans being identical is not a huge decrease in temps. but for most people it has seen some improvement


----------



## chinesethunda

just reading through. here's my input on good general fans and how good the R4s are

for those of you who just got the cooler, for the most part, unless you are really picky about 1-2 degrees, the stock fan that comes with the hyper212+ is more than good. It's great, it's also quieter than it states on the specs. if you want 2-4 degree cooler performance and quieter cooler, just grab another blademaster and call it a day. or a xtraflow if you have the evo. This way you use as little extra money as possible. I like the blademasters because it is a pwm fan and it will control itself. It will be quiet most of the time until you start using more processing power.

If you want other fans, there's at least 3 topics almost always floating near the top of the air cooling forum that you can check out and compare the specs of for that last degree of performance

the cm R4s are not bad, from my experience with them they are better as case fans than heat sink fans. Now if you DO use them as heat sink fans due to the fact that they are colored and have LEDs, your performance isn't going to be hindered all that much. You will have to find a way to control them via bios or a controller, but they are not that loud and will give you pretty decent performance.

*Conclusion*
In my opinion, arguing about fans to put on the 212+ or the evo isn't much use, spending more money on better fans doesn't make much sense as you can just spend that money on a better cooler. this is a budget cooler. It just so happens to be a really good one for the cost. It is great as it comes just as it is, but if one should wish for a little bit better performance, just grab another fan that's same as the one that comes with your cooler


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> *Spending more money on better fans doesn't make much sense as you can just spend that money on a better cooler. this is a budget cooler. It just so happens to be a really good one for the cost. It is great as it comes just as it is, but if one should wish for a little bit better performance, just grab another fan that's same as the one that comes with your cooler*










Read this part twice before asking the same questions over and over.

If any one wants to modify/remove his/her input in the spreadsheet, PM me


----------



## chinesethunda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read this part twice before asking the same questions over and over.
> If any one wants to modify/remove his/her input in the spreadsheet, PM me


I learned this the hard way, i have over 20-30 fans sitting in my closets because I kept buying fans trying to get the best performance, in the end it yields a few degrees at MOST


----------



## Conspiracy

one question for yall that have a bunch of fans laying around... is it worth having a front intake? on a case like mine there is a dust filter, HDD cage, and front cover to the case before the air even gets inside the case. not to mention the dust filter getting full of dust and needing to be cleaned every so often so air isnt totally restricted?

right now i dont have a decent fan in the front of my case as the stock fan just doesnt have the power it feels like to be able to pull fresh air into the case. when i put my hand behind the fan in the case i feel nothing. it barely even moves a piece of tissue. so i have that fan unplugged and put a cheap 120mm in the side as an intake. im not expecting any extraordinary temp gain but was wondering if any of you bother having a front intake or if you just intake from the side panel of the case instead since its unrestricted. really the only question is how important is intake vs how much dust gets sucked into your case lol.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> no you dont. in some situations doing a push/pull with both fans being identical is not a huge decrease in temps. but for most people it has seen some improvement


That's why I was asking him!


----------



## MatijaInSpace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> That's why I was asking him!


Here's my rig now, at least looks better








But now my front and back fans are running at full speed. That's why i need Y 4pin cable to free the sis_fan jack so i could have them on auto also, for 3pin I have home-made Y cable









And the fifth one is 140mm and even on full speed is quiet.


----------



## Alastair

How could one make a PWM Y cable?


----------



## MatijaInSpace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> How could one make a PWM Y cable?


Used few of

added one more wire and merged into one 3pin jack from other cooler.
And it's controlled by MB when connected on sis_fan1 with no problem.


----------



## chinesethunda

if you have push pull make sure your rear exhaust fan is faster than your blademaster, also the front fan is kinda useless. it does help cool your hard drives though, good for intaking air just so you have more air, which isn't bad, but if talking solely for cooling the heat sink, it's minimal, unless your hdd cage is facing front to back which would help, otherwise not so much


----------



## Conspiracy

in that case. i have such an odd assortment of fans that dont seem all that compatible with each other. i might just get a twin pack of the SP120 performance. put one as push on the 212 and use other as rear exhaust. and move my front intake down to cool my drives and thats it. i have one slow fan in the side panel just to feed air to my gpu


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatijaInSpace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> How could one make a PWM Y cable?
> 
> 
> 
> Used few of
> 
> added one more wire and merged into one 3pin jack from other cooler.
> And it's controlled by MB when connected on sis_fan1 with no problem.
Click to expand...

Please can you send me a small guide as how to do it please. These 2200RPM xtra flo's can be quite noisy as the one is not being controlled by my mobo. Thanks!


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> How could one make a PWM Y cable?


Look these splitters:

Gelid CA-PWM-03

Akasa FLEXA FP5 AK-CBFA03-45

Akasa FLEXA FP3S AK-CBFA06-30


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> How could one make a PWM Y cable?
> 
> 
> 
> Look these splitters:
> 
> Gelid CA-PWM-03
> 
> Akasa FLEXA FP5 AK-CBFA03-45
> 
> Akasa FLEXA FP3S AK-CBFA06-30
Click to expand...

The problem is... now you may not believe me here, but there aren't any to be had at any of the online shops that I use! Nobody has them and it is so annoying. So I think I will have to make my own!


----------



## MatijaInSpace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Please can you send me a small guide as how to do it please. These 2200RPM xtra flo's can be quite noisy as the one is not being controlled by my mobo. Thanks!


i made one for 3pin fans and your xtra flo's are 4pin and for that i also dont have a solution. I need that cable too for blademaster's.
I could make it but i don't know where to find 4pin jack's and i don't want to cut cables on new fan. I could just cut and solder them into one....
here's pic's if help's


----------



## sinnedone

If your using the cpu header its as simple as splicing the 12v/ground/pwm into the other fan and leaving the rpm wire off


----------



## Captain Mayhem

I just got a response from pchub regarding the papst fan that i've been waiting on for a little over a month now.

apparently there was a system error (code for major ****up) on their end and they say they're sending it out asap. We'll see.


----------



## MatijaInSpace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> If your using the cpu header its as simple as splicing the 12v/ground/pwm into the other fan and leaving the rpm wire off


Gave me a great idea! THX And it was so easy. Few minutes.
Here's manual








Two Blademaster fan's

with 4pin connectors

rigt tool

press through a hole and pull out wire, one by one

pull in the second jack with same wire without last one like "sinnedone" said


secure them together


and the best thing is that you can easy return like it was before if needed....
NO NEED FOR Y CABLE








WORKS JUST FINE
i will post later temp. results ... one and two fan's


----------



## sinnedone

Glad I could help.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MatijaInSpace*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> If your using the cpu header its as simple as splicing the 12v/ground/pwm into the other fan and leaving the rpm wire off
> 
> 
> 
> Gave me a great idea! THX And it was so easy. Few minutes.
> Here's manual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two Blademaster fan's
> 
> with 4pin connectors
> 
> rigt tool
> 
> press through a hole and pull out wire, one by one
> 
> pull in the second jack with same wire without last one like "sinnedone" said
> 
> 
> secure them together
> 
> 
> and the best thing is that you can easy return like it was before if needed....
> NO NEED FOR Y CABLE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WORKS JUST FINE
> i will post later temp. results ... one and two fan's
Click to expand...

There is just one problem...On the Xtra Flo's all the cables are black so I cant tell them apart?


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> There is just one problem...On the Xtra Flo's all the cables are black so I cant tell them apart?


one suggestion is you could mark each cable, pin outs will be the same


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> There is just one problem...On the Xtra Flo's all the cables are black so I cant tell them apart?


You can compare it with another fan (with a colored cable) for a reference or a pic of the cable

Here is a pic from LRs:


----------



## Alastair

So I take it that PWM control is blue right?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So I take it that PWM control is blue right?


Short answer: Yes

Give me a few minutes, I'll take a pic of the Y-Cable that came with my EVO

Here It is:



The missing one is the sensor cable (2 simultaneous RPM Readings will show 30k RPM !!!)


----------



## Cheezman

Just ordered a 212 Plus for my Source 210; can't wait!


----------



## shadow water

hey guys i just ordered a hyper 212 evo on monday and wanted to know if i will have any problems with my vengeance memory?
i have an gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 AM3+ and was wondering if it will just be a tight fit or will i have to get new ram?


----------



## wanako

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> hey guys i just ordered a hyper 212 evo on monday and wanted to know if i will have any problems with my vengeance memory?
> i have an gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 AM3+ and was wondering if it will just be a tight fit or will i have to get new ram?


Is it a 2x kit or a 4x kit? Looking at pics of that board, if you put the ram in the first and third slot, you should be fine, but if you put it in the second and fourth slot, or if you're filling all the slots, it won't fit. You can also find Low Profile Vengeance memory for this scenario. In my case, I have regular Vengeance ram with the big heatsinks filling all the slots and instead of a push config, I put the fan behind the heatsink in pull config. It worked just as good for me. If you can, I would recommend just getting low profile ram, though.


----------



## Alastair

Yes get the low profile vengeance. RAM nowadays doesn't get hot enough for big heatsinks. I would actually prefer it of people started fitting sinks to GDDR rather than DDR cause we need it more on graphics cards more then anything. I have vengeance LP in slots 2 & 4 and it works like a charm!


----------



## shadow water

Well I might just put it in pull for now but thank you guys
I guess at some point I'll buy some low pros


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> Well I might just put it in pull for now but thank you guys
> I guess at some point I'll buy some low pros


You might be able to fit in in push (cools better that way by a degree or 2)

on my asus board the front fan was rith on the corsair vengeance ram i have and it only took a little bit of sanding (1-2mm) to make it completely clear.


----------



## Khaled G

I can fit tall ram sticks (Vengeance) with the heatsink vertically mounted (Fans on both sides) but the push fan will TOUCH the 4th ram without pressure.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> I can fit tall ram sticks (Vengeance) with the heatsink vertically mounted (Fans on both sides) but the push fan will TOUCH the 4th ram without pressure.


lucky!

i had to move my ram over and leave slot 1 open because the push fan sits over like half of the first slot


----------



## wanako

yeah, in mine i had to put it in pull config because I'm using all four slots with high vengeance ram.


----------



## Kilrt

I had the vengance in my last build, it's ramsink has a spread, folded over sort of shape which makes it wider at the apex.
I'm using 8 GSkill tridents on my 2011 build and the ramsinks are solid aluminum fins, very thin, sharp (damn painfull to push in).
They are tight up to my fans, but the 212 seems like it was made to work as is.
The width of the vengance apposed to the height may be the problem with the 2011
Could flattening the ramsinks to the side away from the fans, along with pulling the rubber puds out from between the fan and heat sink help?.
The tollerances are very tight.
Excellent cooler, although it may need a little love in some of our more ambitious efforts/ builds.


----------



## Ramsey77

Thought I would post a pic of my EVO in it's new home:


----------



## Alastair

They should make like a slightly more expensive 212 to sort of slot into like 412 territory. Where instead of press fitting the fins on they should solder them on. I wonder how much more that would improve performance and how much more expensive it would be?


----------



## Baldy

Absolutely loved my CM Hyper 212+ when I had it, my first ever foray into aftermarket cooling which was a major success!

For anyone interested in the difference between the Hyper 212+ and a top air cooler like the D14, refer to the link in my signature! I'm sure that after you see the phenomenal cooling performance you get from a $20-30 cooler, you'll all be wondering what another $50-60 can get you, considering this is overclock.net


----------



## shadow water

lol im glad newegg was giving free shipping on monday because in total my evo a fan controller 2 fans and arctic silver 5 weighs 5.2 pounds im guessing mostly the evo


----------



## Captain Mayhem

yes! I finally, FINALLY got an arrival date on my order. The soonest that ebmpapst fan wil be here is the third of december, and the latest is the 28th of december.


----------



## TheHatMan

I am interested in running a Push/Pull configuration for my Hyper 212+. I recently purchased two Cougar CF-V12H fluid dynamic fans. They only pull ~60cfm, but operate at ~17dB, which is significantly quieter than the stock fan. My concern is the loss of ~10cfm of air flow from the stock fan. Does anyone know if this reduction in air flow will hinder the cooling ability? I assume the fact that I am running two 60cfm fans is irrelevant, since running two 70cfm fans only makes a difference of ~1-3C.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHatMan*
> 
> I am interested in running a Push/Pull configuration for my Hyper 212+. I recently purchased two Cougar CF-V12H fluid dynamic fans. They only pull ~60cfm, but operate at ~17dB, which is significantly quieter than the stock fan. My concern is the loss of ~10cfm of air flow from the stock fan. Does anyone know if this reduction in air flow will hinder the cooling ability? I assume the fact that I am running two 60cfm fans is irrelevant, since running two 70cfm fans only makes a difference of ~1-3C.


The 212+ stock fan (Blade Master) is a nice fan for the heatsinks and water coolers.
The Blade Master is rather loud at higher speeds.

There's other fans that have higher CFM but it doesn't mean these fans are better than the Blade Master or the Cougar.

The Cougar Vortex HDB (CF-V12H) fan is in my opinion a nice choice for a silent heatsink fan.

I'm a Cougar Vortex HDB 140mm owner.
I would say that the quality build is also good.

I believe that you don't need to worry about these 1 - 3C.

I'm not the only one that say the Cougar is a nice heatsink fan.

Check yourself the post #103 (page 11).

http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks/100#post_17848760


----------



## broadbandaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheHatMan*
> 
> I am interested in running a Push/Pull configuration for my Hyper 212+. I recently purchased two Cougar CF-V12H fluid dynamic fans. They only pull ~60cfm, but operate at ~17dB, which is significantly quieter than the stock fan. My concern is the loss of ~10cfm of air flow from the stock fan. Does anyone know if this reduction in air flow will hinder the cooling ability? I assume the fact that I am running two 60cfm fans is irrelevant, since running two 70cfm fans only makes a difference of ~1-3C.


I've got two of those on my 212+. They keep my i3-2120 at around 48C (Prime95) in a warm environment. I'm guessing in a cooler environment (haven't run them at the house yet) they would be considerably cooler.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

what is the best fan i can ADD to the back of my HYPER 212 PLUS? IVE GOT the stock blade master up front and its working great!
I just want another fan to help suck the heat out fins A LITTLE FASTER.
What IM THINKING ABOUT is get another BM FAN FOR THE back because they work excellent SCREW THE NOISE for now.... only when im gaming then its like when the radiator fans in a car comes ON XD!!


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> what is the best fan i can ADD to the back of my HYPER 212 PLUS? IVE GOT the stock blade master up front and its working great!
> I just want another fan to help suck the heat out fins A LITTLE FASTER.
> What IM THINKING ABOUT is get another BM FAN FOR THE back because they work excellent SCREW THE NOISE for now.... only when im gaming then its like when the radiator fans in a car comes ON XD!!


If you absolutely want to have one then the BM is a go because it bested even the Scythe Gentle Typhoons (considered king of fans). But I'd advise you just leave it as is because paying another ten dollars just to gain 2C is not really worth it.


----------



## TheHatMan

I just wanted to show off my Hyper 212+! I will upload an image of my Cougar Push/Pull rig with temps.


----------



## shadow water

well this was scary as **** and i have no clue how it happened but the cpu is just fine now...








and now here is what it looks like


----------



## ceaze one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> 
> well this was scary as **** and i have no clue how it happened but the cpu is just fine now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now here is what it looks like


I've had this happen to me a couple times, I think its because the TIM is thick and grabs onto the cpu. To prevent this from happening i usually run prime95 for about 10 minutes to warm up the TIM and remove the cooler right away. I found that doing this and twisting the heatsink back and fourth very gently usually sets it free without taking the cpu with it.

Those Corsair fans look great with the Hyper 212 by the way


----------



## shadow water

thank you very much?


----------



## triggdev

I got my new rig all set up.

i5 3570k @ 4.0ghz
EVGA GTX 680 FTW+ 4gb
16gb RAM Corsair Vengeance LP
ASRock Extreme4 Z77


----------



## Khaled G

You could get easy 4.6 GHz if you want to.


----------



## fishymamba

Works great! Have gotten up to 4.6 GHz, but back to stock for now because I have no use for the extra processing power.
I do overclock it back to 4.6 when encoding video. The MSI software that came with my MOBO makes it really easy.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> 
> well this was scary as **** and i have no clue how it happened but the cpu is just fine now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and now here is what it looks like


GREAT JOB









DUDE







that first pict can make a person cold sweat lol KNOWING every thing is goin smooth n then , OMG WTH !!! Thats what i call getting trolled by thermal paste factory paste sucks! BUT its does the job

BTW how are those fans performing ?


----------



## shadow water

That work great even when I have them running at half speed the only time I run them at full is when I'm gaming and even then they aren't too loud and push a ton of air


----------



## Cheezman

This is an awesome cooler.

I only paid $25 for it from Newegg. You really can't beat that price/performance.


----------



## alextheguy

Is Hyper 212 Evo sufficient for my daily 3570k @4.5GHZ? Or I need to add another fan to pull the heat away? Using MX4 instead of the stock thermal paste will lower the temp? Thanks.


----------



## fishymamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alextheguy*
> 
> Is Hyper 212 Evo sufficient for my daily 3570k @4.5GHZ? Or I need to add another fan to pull the heat away? Using MX4 instead of the stock thermal paste will lower the temp? Thanks.


It'll be fine with 1 fan. I run my i7 2700K at 4.5 GHz with it.


----------



## Khaled G

And it's cooling my 3770K running @ 4.6 GHz easily. Max temp 74°. (I can run 4.7 GHz but it'll run mid 80s Celsius while folding)


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alextheguy*
> 
> Is Hyper 212 Evo sufficient for my daily 3570k @4.5GHZ? Or I need to add another fan to pull the heat away? Using MX4 instead of the stock thermal paste will lower the temp? Thanks.


Yeah, from what I see it cools good enough for this clock speed to not get too hot.


----------



## alextheguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> And it's cooling my 3770K running @ 4.6 GHz easily. Max temp 74°. (I can run 4.7 GHz but it'll run mid 80s Celsius while folding)


But I have seen some 3570k-users used this cooler to run the Linx test and get the CPU damn hot for like 9x degree celcius, almost reaching Tjmax. Plan to add one Artic F12 120mm pwm fan to pull the heat and apply the MX4 paste. Or is this unnecessary?


----------



## Alastair

LinX stresses cpu a lot more then what it would ever be stressed in real life. But a pull. configuration with some mx-4 could save you some degrees. I would do it. Just to have that little extra headroom.


----------



## alextheguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> LinX stresses cpu a lot more then what it would ever be stressed in real life. But a pull. configuration with some mx-4 could save you some degrees. I would do it. Just to have that little extra headroom.


So, I guess you had done that test and get almost reaching TJMax. But to test the OC for stability, prime 95 alone will do? Or some hardcore Linx test with all rams used?


----------



## Alastair

On my Phenom 2 if I test using Intel burn test (which is VERY similar to linX) I reach the 62C max temperature very quickly. But using prime 95 it maxes out at 55C. For basic stability a 1 hour prime run in my opinion is sufficient. But I would say a test of 6 hours + for a comprehensive 100% stability test.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alextheguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> LinX stresses cpu a lot more then what it would ever be stressed in real life. But a pull. configuration with some mx-4 could save you some degrees. I would do it. Just to have that little extra headroom.
> 
> 
> 
> So, I guess you had done that test and get almost reaching TJMax. But to test the OC for stability, prime 95 alone will do? Or some hardcore Linx test with all rams used?
Click to expand...

This !

And it was discussed several times here that matching fans will give you the best results specially if you use Blade master. I Bought the 2 fans version of EVO so I got 2 XtraFlo Fans, Not as good as Blade Masters but close enough.


----------



## edsai

I'm using the 212+ with 2 XtraFlo fans and the Blade Master as case fan.

The Blade Master seems quieter than the XtraFlo at higher speeds.

The XtraFlo after 1000rpm - 1200rpm seems to have a more audible motor noise than compared to to the Blade Master.


----------



## Khaled G

My XtraFlo fans sound like a beehive when at full speed.


----------



## Conspiracy

Lol. My 212evo is also a little noisy with P/P SP120 performance.

I might be leaving my 212evo behind to upgrade to either a noctua D14 or H80i. Leaning towards D14 for the price


----------



## junp31

From the OP pictures, I'm guessing I can't use the Hyper 212+ or Evo with a 2-way GTX 670 sli on a regular sized case, like the CM 690 II Advanced?


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junp31*
> 
> From the OP pictures, I'm guessing I can't use the Hyper 212+ or Evo with a 2-way GTX 670 sli on a regular sized case, like the CM 690 II Advanced?


that depends more on your motherboard than your case. only thing that matters for case is how tall a heatsink is so that you can get the side panel back on, and in some possibly rarer cases how wide the heatsink is so it does not interfere with case fans on top.

i think for most situations you can use a 212+ or evo no worries about gpu much less sli.

it helps if you fill out your computer information in your profile and even put that info in your signature


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *junp31*
> 
> From the OP pictures, I'm guessing I can't use the Hyper 212+ or Evo with a 2-way GTX 670 sli on a regular sized case, like the CM 690 II Advanced?


I Think You Can









My Regular Sized Enforcer:


----------



## Barbecuesaus

Hey guys i found this topic in a sig of somebody.

But after reading a couple of posts i see its best to match the second fan with the stock fan









Wel i didnt.... i bought this extra fan: http://tweakers.net/pricewatch/262863/cooler-master-sickleflow-120-red-led-120mm-120mm/specificaties/ I mounted it from the first time i installed, so i dont know how it performs with a single fan









But after reading..... not sure anymore if it has a function.

I would realy like to add that the plastic and screws u get to mount a extra fan, are realy crap!! Id rather not unscrew it, being afraid it breaks (im almost certain it will!)


----------



## Conspiracy

they arent that bad. i have swapped out the fans on my 212 EVO many many times playing around with fan configuration and havent had them break yet. just have to be careful with those plastic clips lol


----------



## Alastair

yeah my 212's plastic clips have broken. So i am gonna make a back up with paper clips.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> yeah my 212's plastic clips have broken. So i am gonna make a back up with paper clips.


that stinks









i have heard others make paperclip fan clips for other coolers before and been pretty successful. but have yet to see a simple like guide on the easy way to make them effective to save spending time with trial and error lol


----------



## chinesethunda

guys, you can make zip tie screws like this


----------



## performance

Does anyone know how well this cooler would do for the A8-5600K? I was hoping for a 4.7ghz OC. Realistic?


----------



## Alastair

Yeah I think that is realistic. This cooler might even do better


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *performance*
> 
> Does anyone know how well this cooler would do for the A8-5600K? I was hoping for a 4.7ghz OC. Realistic?


I don't know about AMD APUs but I have my 3770K folding 24/7 @ 4.7 GHz no problems. (123 Watts)


----------



## shadow water

I would try to get the lowest voltage as you can while still being stable so the your not stressing the apu too much. So get that to 4.7 then start overclocking the gpu part and see what you can get performance wise while still having it under around 65-70 but I personally wouldn't go over those temps but that's up to you


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *performance*
> 
> Does anyone know how well this cooler would do for the A8-5600K? I was hoping for a 4.7ghz OC. Realistic?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know about AMD APUs but I have my 3770K folding 24/7 @ 4.7 GHz no problems. (123 Watts)
Click to expand...

what are your temps khaled? im at 4.6 and now that i moved home im in the mid-low 70's. before when i was in my dorm room the ambient temp was much much higher and i was in the low 80's









i havent even attempted to go past 4.6GHz because i was worried about folding 24/7 in the 80*C range


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> what are your temps khaled? im at 4.6 and now that i moved home im in the mid-low 70's. before when i was in my dorm room the ambient temp was much much higher and i was in the low 80's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i havent even attempted to go past 4.6GHz because i was worried about folding 24/7 in the 80*C range


----------



## performance

A8-5600k 4.3ghz @ 1.4 volts under load measures 63 C. Is this normal?

if I were to move the heatsink around should it feel slippery at all? what should it feel like?


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *performance*
> 
> A8-5600k 4.3ghz @ 1.4 volts under load measures 63 C. Is this normal?
> 
> if I were to move the heatsink around should it feel slippery at all? what should it feel like?


until the thermal paste sets it will feel slippery. but i dont think its highly suggested to move it around a bunch, only a tiny bit. once your cpu sets in place it will sit more solid and wont feel slippery. it varies with thermal pastes, some set faster than others


----------



## performance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> until the thermal paste sets it will feel slippery. but i dont think its highly suggested to move it around a bunch, only a tiny bit. once your cpu sets in place it will sit more solid and wont feel slippery. it varies with thermal pastes, some set faster than others


What about pulling it off? Should it feel stuck and hard to pull off? Would that be a sign of too much paste?


----------



## Conspiracy

well if you have it screwed down with the bracket. i dont think you would want to try pulling on it


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> yeah my 212's plastic clips have broken. So i am gonna make a back up with paper clips.


HEY BUD when u make the clips can i see how u did ? post UP picts


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> yeah my 212's plastic clips have broken. So i am gonna make a back up with paper clips.
> 
> 
> 
> HEY BUD when u make the clips can i see how u did ? post UP picts
Click to expand...

Sure. When i get home for Christmas I shall give it a shot!


----------



## Alastair

Im upgrading to water cooling soon.


----------



## shadow water

i was thinking about spraying the top and sides that dont have the fans on them do you guys think this will effect the performance to much as long as i dont get much more then a mist on the fins?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> i was thinking about spraying the top and sides that dont have the fans on them do you guys think this will effect the performance to much as long as i dont get much more then a mist on the fins?


I capped off the heat pipes and painted just the top fin. I wouldn't bother with the sides.


----------



## shadow water

so did you pop the top fin off?


----------



## Ramsey77

No, I taped them off and just sprayed it.


----------



## shadow water

alright thats what i figured i was just making sure. i got a roll of frog tape so ill just use that.


----------



## boxwunder13

I want to join the club!


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boxwunder13*
> 
> I want to join the club!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Add yourself in the spreadsheet, try to provide accurate info as possible.


----------



## ICE2K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boxwunder13*
> 
> I want to join the club!


*NICE FANS WHAT COLOR R THEY GREEN OR BLU??.....*


----------



## boxwunder13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ICE2K*
> 
> *NICE FANS WHAT COLOR R THEY GREEN OR BLU??.....*


Funny that you ask if they are green. I had my eye on some green bitfenix pwm fans that will move air better than those case fans I currently have on there. They do, however, keep my temps down, so they are not all bad.


----------



## SuperS2

I grabbed this cooler and an extra CM fan same size speed what not. I currently dont have a 4pin splitter so i slapped the extra fan to my extra 4pin connected on the motherboard. I have it setup for a push pull however the pull fan thats connected to the extra slot is not in sync with the push fan. I just wanted to know if you think there would be any down side or negative effects to this? Sorry for my ignorance


----------



## Ramsey77

Ideally you would want both fans in sync with each other.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718001


----------



## crazydj

Hey guys!

I finally made the effort to switch my stock cooler to my Hyper 212+ lying around. With its single fan configuration, i am getting 55 degrees on idle and 70 degrees on load while playing PlanetSide 2. My 2500k is overclocked to 3.6Ghz. Does this temperature seem normal or is there something wrong here?


----------



## shadow water

That seems a bit high I have an 1100t running 4.2 and with push pull on low I get a max of 60c
I recommend taking it off cleaning it properly and doing to pea method for thermal paste and see if that helps at all


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> That seems a bit high I have an 1100t running 4.2 and with push pull on low I get a max of 60c
> I recommend taking it off cleaning it properly and doing to pea method for thermal paste and see if that helps at all


Yeah, i thought so too... The thermal conductivity of my CoolerMaster IC Value V1 is only >1.85 W/m-K as compared to 8.5 W/m-K for an Artic MX-4. Such a high difference. Used the pea method. So what's the best thermal paste in the market right now?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Yeah, i thought so too... The thermal conductivity of my CoolerMaster IC Value V1 is only >1.85 W/m-K as compared to 8.5 W/m-K for an Artic MX-4. Such a high difference. Used the pea method. So what's the best thermal paste in the market right now?


Your idle temps are high.

Best TIMs out there (No curing time required):

- Zaward HSC-G
- Thermaltake CL-O0027 TG1
- Evercool Cruise Missle STC-03
- Gelid GC-2 TC-GC-02-A
- Arctic Cooling MX-2
- Coolink Chillaramic
- OCZ Freeze OCZTFRZTC
- MG Chemicals 860 Silicone HTC
- Zalman ZM-STG2 Super Thermal Grease
- Cooler Master ThermalFusion 400 RG-TF4-TGU1-GP
- TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0098
- GC Electronics Silcone Z9 10-8108
- Shin-Etsu MicroSi X-23 7783D
- TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0099
- Tuniq TX-3
- Gelid GC-Extreme
- Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751

Source


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Your idle temps are high.
> Best TIMs out there (No curing time required):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> - Zaward HSC-G
> - Thermaltake CL-O0027 TG1
> - Evercool Cruise Missle STC-03
> - Gelid GC-2 TC-GC-02-A
> - Arctic Cooling MX-2
> - Coolink Chillaramic
> - OCZ Freeze OCZTFRZTC
> - MG Chemicals 860 Silicone HTC
> - Zalman ZM-STG2 Super Thermal Grease
> - Cooler Master ThermalFusion 400 RG-TF4-TGU1-GP
> - TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0098
> - GC Electronics Silcone Z9 10-8108
> - Shin-Etsu MicroSi X-23 7783D
> - TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0099
> - Tuniq TX-3
> - Gelid GC-Extreme
> - Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751
> Source


OCZ Freeze is really hard to find anymore, so my last install I went with Tuniq TX-2, and I am getting exactly the same temps with it. I wonder what happened to OCZ Freeze?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Your idle temps are high.
> Best TIMs out there (No curing time required):
> - Zaward HSC-G
> - Thermaltake CL-O0027 TG1
> - Evercool Cruise Missle STC-03
> - Gelid GC-2 TC-GC-02-A
> - Arctic Cooling MX-2
> - Coolink Chillaramic
> - OCZ Freeze OCZTFRZTC
> - MG Chemicals 860 Silicone HTC
> - Zalman ZM-STG2 Super Thermal Grease
> - Cooler Master ThermalFusion 400 RG-TF4-TGU1-GP
> - TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0098
> - GC Electronics Silcone Z9 10-8108
> - Shin-Etsu MicroSi X-23 7783D
> - TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0099
> - Tuniq TX-3
> - Gelid GC-Extreme
> - Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751
> Source


I wanna add to that the Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra and the Dow Corning stuff.


----------



## shadow water

im using artic silver 5 and it seems to work great


----------



## Alastair

Put some Arctic mx-4 up in there!


----------



## vonss

I don't think the auto-membership is working.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> Your idle temps are high.
> Best TIMs out there (No curing time required):
> - Zaward HSC-G
> - Thermaltake CL-O0027 TG1
> - Evercool Cruise Missle STC-03
> - Gelid GC-2 TC-GC-02-A
> - Arctic Cooling MX-2
> - Coolink Chillaramic
> - OCZ Freeze OCZTFRZTC
> - MG Chemicals 860 Silicone HTC
> - Zalman ZM-STG2 Super Thermal Grease
> - Cooler Master ThermalFusion 400 RG-TF4-TGU1-GP
> - TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0098
> - GC Electronics Silcone Z9 10-8108
> - Shin-Etsu MicroSi X-23 7783D
> - TIM Consultants T-C Grease 0099
> - Tuniq TX-3
> - Gelid GC-Extreme
> - Shin-Etsu MicroSi G751
> Source


I just don't get it. My C2D E6600 running at 2.4Ghz stock with a ThermalTake Ruby Orb is running at 40 degrees idle with CM IC Value V1 thermal paste. My i5 2500k, which at stock, OCed to 3.6Ghz, 4.0Ghz and 4.4Ghz with a CM Hyper 212+ with the same CM IC Value V1 thermal paste runs at 52 degrees at idle, even though i re-sat the cooler using the pea and spread method and even added a pull fan into the equation. Basically, second fan added and filling in the gaps of the heatpipes yield no significant improvements. Is the Hyper 212+ cooler busted somehow or is something wrong with the chip? The E6600 should be giving higher temps compared to my i5, am i correct? I recall with my stock i5 cooler, it gives me 80 degrees on load while its about 60 degrees on idle.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> I just don't get it. My C2D E6600 running at 2.4Ghz stock with a ThermalTake Ruby Orb is running at 40 degrees idle with CM IC Value V1 thermal paste. My i5 2500k, which at stock, OCed to 3.6Ghz, 4.0Ghz and 4.4Ghz with a CM Hyper 212+ with the same CM IC Value V1 thermal paste runs at 52 degrees at idle, even though i re-sat the cooler using the pea and spread method and even added a pull fan into the equation. Basically, second fan added and filling in the gaps of the heatpipes yield no significant improvements. Is the Hyper 212+ cooler busted somehow or is something wrong with the chip? The E6600 should be giving higher temps compared to my i5, am i correct? I recall with my stock i5 cooler, it gives me 80 degrees on load while its about 60 degrees on idle.


At what voltage are you running your chips? Are your mounting screws turned all the way down until they bottom out? What is the ambient temperature in the room you are in?


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> At what voltage are you running your chips? Are your mounting screws turned all the way down until they bottom out? What is the ambient temperature in the room you are in?


I suspect the chip itself is faulty. It cannot be that the thermal paste is that bad right? My voltage is between 1.2 and 1.4V. Mounting screws are maxed out, the heatsink is super secure. The ambient temp in my room is perhaps 28 degrees? On a bad day it can reach 34 degrees.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I don't think the auto-membership is working.


I checked and you're in ! The list updates automatically every 5 minutes, so do not expect to be on the list the moment you press submit.

If any one needs help with the spreadsheet, PM me at any time.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> I suspect the chip itself is faulty. It cannot be that the thermal paste is that bad right? My voltage is between 1.2 and 1.4V. Mounting screws are maxed out, the heatsink is super secure. The ambient temp in my room is perhaps 28 degrees? On a bad day it can reach 34 degrees.


What is your load temps with the Hyper on the i5?? The lower the temperature, the lower the accuracy of the temp sensor in the chip so try getting some load temps because who knows, your load temps detected by the sensor could be spot on but idle temps way off.


----------



## crazydj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> What is your load temps with the Hyper on the i5?? The lower the temperature, the lower the accuracy of the temp sensor in the chip so try getting some load temps because who knows, your load temps detected by the sensor could be spot on but idle temps way off.


Between 83 to 86 degrees C.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazydj*
> 
> Between 83 to 86 degrees C.


Is that on 4.4??


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Is that on 4.4??


Even if it is, something is wrong. My 3820 doesn't hit 70 under full load at 4.75 @ 1.37v


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Even if it is, something is wrong. My 3820 doesn't hit 70 under full load at 4.75 @ 1.37v


I'm just confirming.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> I'm just confirming.


Confirmation







:


----------



## Christown

Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are on what the best fan to replace the stock fan on a 212 EVO is? Looking for a better fan to hopefully drop temps a few degrees.

I'm guessing something with a higher static pressure, but I thought I'd ask what fans are known to fit well and perform better.

Cheers.


----------



## Conspiracy

im pretty happy with push/pull SP120. i run around high 60's at full load at 4.6GHz.

there are tons of options out there. majority of them are pretty good. the differences between a lot of the high static pressure fans are not significant enough to net you considerably cooler temps over a different brand of similarly rated high static pressure fans


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Christown*
> 
> Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are on what the best fan to replace the stock fan on a 212 EVO is? Looking for a better fan to hopefully drop temps a few degrees.
> I'm guessing something with a higher static pressure, but I thought I'd ask what fans are known to fit well and perform better.
> Cheers.


Err...... Use the Blademaster from the Plus.


----------



## looterdevil

Im new to this and all. I am planning to get a hyper 212 evo sometime soon. I was wondering if pairing the stock blademaster fan with a CM sickleflow would be good? or replacing the stock blademaster with a sickle would be better?

As far as budget is concerned, seems that i am stuck with sickle or none at all









Any thoughts on this guys?


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *looterdevil*
> 
> Im new to this and all. I am planning to get a hyper 212 evo sometime soon. I was wondering if pairing the stock blademaster fan with a CM sickleflow would be good? or replacing the stock blademaster with a sickle would be better?


The Evo doesn't comes with a Blademaster but with an Xtraflow. Its generaly better to use matching fans for P/P in order to avoid excess turbulence.


----------



## samuelspark

I'm running an i5 2500k @4.5GHz with stock voltage yet, with IBT, it reaches mid/high 90's.

I'm currently using two Antec TriCools in push/pull. Reseated heatsink and thermal paste today. Any ideas?


----------



## Ramsey77

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069

Best $10 fans ever.

Edit: sorry about the botched link. Fixed.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> http://www.Newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=35-103-069
> Best $10 fans ever.


What fans are those?

Newegg says server error.


----------



## chinesethunda

they are the blademsters
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069&Tpk=35%20103%20069


----------



## samuelspark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> they are the blademsters
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069&Tpk=35%20103%20069


Oh god no. Those are so annoying loud.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuelspark*
> 
> Oh god no. Those are so annoying loud.


At full 12v, yeah they are loud. Are they louder than any other high static pressure fans that spin 2000rpm? Not really. I take advantage of their PWM capabilities and they are whisper quiet at idle, and only hum at load. I posted temps a page or two back. They are great fans for 10 bones, nobody in this club will say anything to the contrary.


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> http://www.Newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=35-103-069
> Best $10 fans ever.


These are: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106149
I've got two of these on my 212 Evo and they keep my A6-3670K running @ 41C under load (Prime95).


----------



## samuelspark

Btw, anyone using the sticky pads on the fan to keep the fans in place? I kinda lost mine, so I'm sharing 2 and 2 for each of my fans in push/pull.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuelspark*
> 
> Btw, anyone using the sticky pads on the fan to keep the fans in place? I kinda lost mine, so I'm sharing 2 and 2 for each of my fans in push/pull.


You might find something similar at a hardware store with the tape and adhesives. 3M makes all kinds of stuff. Worth a look anyway.


----------



## looterdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> The Evo doesn't comes with a Blademaster but with an Xtraflow. Its generaly better to use matching fans for P/P in order to avoid excess turbulence.


Thank you. So would it be better to use another Xtraflow to pair up P/P or have both Sickleflows R4 instead?


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuelspark*
> 
> Btw, anyone using the sticky pads on the fan to keep the fans in place? I kinda lost mine, so I'm sharing 2 and 2 for each of my fans in push/pull.


I use mine, but I just thought that they were for vibration/noise reduction.


----------



## All3n

I would not worry about unmatched fans causing turbulence. The difference between 1 and 2 fans on the 212 is negligible anyways.

Whatever you want to put on there is going to work fine. The cooler just needs a moderate amount of air exchanged to work effectively.


----------



## Conspiracy

finally got new ram. not that i was having any issues with the cooler. but my old corsair vengeance had really slow timings that would cause occasional memory management bsod's. so i replaced them with kingston hyperX


----------



## shadow water

just curious but what coler are you trying for in your build? becuase most people that have the corsair fans are trying for a single color and yours are just all over the place lol


----------



## Conspiracy

me? im not going for a specific color theme. i like blue but i made the corsair fans different colors to distinguish between quiet and performance edition because i have 2 quiet edition fans in the top and 2 performance editions on the 212evo


----------



## chinesethunda

whoever says the blademaster is loud must just be picky about the noise, I have had 4 blademasters doing push pull on a 240mm rad before and it didn't bother me at all. the fact they are pwm makes them ideal for cooling coolers, plus they have high static pressure. if you check ehume's fan comparisons you will notice the blademaster outperforms the gt ap15s in terms of performance


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> whoever says the blademaster is loud must just be picky about the noise, I have had 4 blademasters doing push pull on a 240mm rad before and it didn't bother me at all. the fact they are pwm makes them ideal for cooling coolers, plus they have high static pressure. if you check ehume's fan comparisons you will notice the blademaster outperforms the gt ap15s in terms of performance


^^^^^ This.









I REALLY wish that CM would make a 140mm version, I'd buy a handful yesterday.


----------



## chinesethunda

would be nice wouldn't it? especially for the new cooler that just came out from them the t4 i think


----------



## Ramsey77

I am actually thinking about ordering this to try a pair of Blade Masters on. I have left over Christmas money, and can't think of anything else to get. It'd be nice just to be able to compare the two with the same fans.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233029


----------



## ivoryg37

I just got mine a week ago. Been running it on my i7 860 with great temps! Still letting the thermal grease break in a little before I start OCing it.


----------



## samuelspark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> whoever says the blademaster is loud must just be picky about the noise, I have had 4 blademasters doing push pull on a 240mm rad before and it didn't bother me at all. the fact they are pwm makes them ideal for cooling coolers, plus they have high static pressure. if you check ehume's fan comparisons you will notice the blademaster outperforms the gt ap15s in terms of performance


It was always the loudest in my case. Either as a CPU fan, or a side fan. Both were connected to the 4 pin header on the motherboard. Only when I turned down the speed to 500RPM was the fan actually quiet.

I tend not to listen to music loudly, but at minimum sound level to train my ears. Probably the cause for my sensitive ears.


----------



## shadow water

If you guys want to complain about loud go play with some delta fans at 12volts then you'll know what loud is


----------



## edsai

I'm using the 212+ with 2 XtraFlo fans (american Evo fan) and the Blade Master as case fan.

The XtraFlo seems to have a more audible motor noise than the Blade Master at higher speed.

I'm going fine with both fans being controlled by the board.
My only cons about the Blade Master is that it doesn't have a nice looking. LOL


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

HEY guys just dropping by to say HAPPY NEW YEAR


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> HEY guys just dropping by to say HAPPY NEW YEAR


















HAPPY NEW YEAR!


----------



## shadow water

how do you guys like my blacked out evo?


----------



## Boinz

Very sexy.


----------



## Gavush

I'm in...



I do have a question though - on my CPU there is a sliver CPU head spreader that's not covered up by the cooler's base - probably less than a .05mm mechanical pencil lead. I'll have to take it all off and shift the base slightly to center it 100%. (I'd call it 99% atm) but I'm wondering if it really matters so long as my temps stay good?


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> 
> how do you guys like my blacked out evo?


Nice!


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I'm in...
> 
> I do have a question though - on my CPU there is a sliver CPU head spreader that's not covered up by the cooler's base - probably less than a .05mm mechanical pencil lead. I'll have to take it all off and shift the base slightly to center it 100%. (I'd call it 99% atm) but I'm wondering if it really matters so long as my temps stay good?


Dosen't really matter, less than a tenth of a mm off doesn't affect temps.


----------



## Alastair

Sorry guys I know this is COMPLETELY unrelated but I am trying to start a new thread and I cant remember how?!?!


----------



## All3n

Just below the red flag in last post of the thread is a "Start a New Thread" button. That is one way, it will be posted in this category.


----------



## eBombzor

Am I mounting the backplate (EVO) right on my Z77-D3H?

So I'm right in the middle of my build and this special nut in the middle of the retention bracket for my Evo is adjustable, but my manual says nothing about it. Should I tighten it all the way or just leave it at default?

Also, which way do I mount the heatsink? The fan near the I/O shield or on top of the RAM? Which way is exhaust?


----------



## All3n

You don't need to adjust that nut, unless it's almost off. It just holds the device on a particular angle using those little dents around the edge.

On top of the RAM if it fits.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> 
> Am I mounting the backplate (EVO) right on my Z77-D3H?
> 
> So I'm right in the middle of my build and this *special nut in the middle of the retention bracket for my Evo* is adjustable, but my manual says nothing about it. Should I tighten it all the way or just leave it at default?
> Also, which way do I mount the heatsink? The fan near the I/O shield or on top of the RAM? Which way is exhaust?


It's just to keep pressure on the indentations and the ball bearing to keep it open or closed. It makes no difference otherwise. It doesn't add pressure or anything.

And you can mount it horizontal or vertically. It's your choice. Usually it is mounted vertically, with the fans blowing towards the rear of the case. Some folks like to mount them horizontally with the fans blowing towards the top of the case. Like I said, it's totally up to you.


----------



## All3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Which way is exhaust?[/QUOTE]
> 
> In the factory configuration, the exhaust comes out the opposite side of the fan, as mentioned above, point it which ever way you like. (Up or Back)


----------



## eBombzor

Ok the Evo took me about 30min to figure out but I eventually got it in. The rest of the build took me about 20min.


----------



## Alastair

Thanks All3n for that... Sorry my blonde moments come and go sometimes!







By the way, I mount my EVO vertically exhausting the heat out of the top of my case through my 2 140mm exhaust fans! Just for curiosity sake!


----------



## stubass

pushin the limits now, new cooling needed and scrap the hyper 212 LOL and get into some serious cooling.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2638218

what is the highest clock you guys have booted into windows with the CM hyper 212+ evo?
I am using stock paste and baldemaster fans.
Mobo GB z77x-up5
CPU 2600k

interesting to see what others have validated and which CPU


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> pushin the limits now, new cooling needed and scrap the hyper 212 LOL and get into some serious cooling.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2638218
> 
> what is the highest clock you guys have booted into windows with the CM hyper 212+ evo?
> I am using stock paste and baldemaster fans.
> Mobo GB z77x-up5
> CPU 2600k
> 
> interesting to see what others have validated and which CPU


Nice speed! I get 4.3GHz max with EVO on Phenom 2 965 BE C3!


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> pushin the limits now, new cooling needed and scrap the hyper 212 LOL and get into some serious cooling.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2638218
> 
> what is the highest clock you guys have booted into windows with the CM hyper 212+ evo?
> I am using stock paste and baldemaster fans.
> Mobo GB z77x-up5
> CPU 2600k
> 
> interesting to see what others have validated and which CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice speed! I get 4.3GHz max with EVO on Phenom 2 965 BE C3!
Click to expand...

thanks, before on previous Mobo which was a z68-ud3h-b3 i couldnt boot into windows over 4.8GHz. i think this is one of thoose insatnces where a mobo and its VRM quality can help. still love my EVO i must admit


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> pushin the limits now, new cooling needed and scrap the hyper 212 LOL and get into some serious cooling.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2638218
> 
> what is the highest clock you guys have booted into windows with the CM hyper 212+ evo?
> I am using stock paste and baldemaster fans.
> Mobo GB z77x-up5
> CPU 2600k
> 
> interesting to see what others have validated and which CPU


you are getting that clock at that voltage on a 212EVO? what are your temps and is that stable? no way your temps like even remotely safe under full load lol. i would be shocked if you are under like 90*C


----------



## fishymamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> you are getting that clock at that voltage on a 212EVO? what are your temps and is that stable? no way your temps like even remotely safe under full load lol. i would be shocked if you are under like 90*C


These guys got an over 5Ghz overclock with an Evo:



Either I got a bad CPU or their CPU is about to explode.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> you are getting that clock at that voltage on a 212EVO? what are your temps and is that stable? no way your temps like even remotely safe under full load lol. i would be shocked if you are under like 90*C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These guys got an over 5Ghz overclock with an Evo:
> 
> 
> 
> Either I got a bad CPU or their CPU is about to explode.
Click to expand...

yeah. they didnt even mention temps unless i missed it. guy avoided showing what the temps were lol. that cpu was definitely hand picked before they shot that video. there is just no way you can run at safe temps at that speed with a 212EVO lol. im pretty sure that chip was going to liquify. they only ran that one benchmark and did nothing else so it wasnt like a full out stress test


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> pushin the limits now, new cooling needed and scrap the hyper 212 LOL and get into some serious cooling.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2638218
> 
> what is the highest clock you guys have booted into windows with the CM hyper 212+ evo?
> I am using stock paste and baldemaster fans.
> Mobo GB z77x-up5
> CPU 2600k
> 
> interesting to see what others have validated and which CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you are getting that clock at that voltage on a 212EVO? what are your temps and is that stable? no way your temps like even remotely safe under full load lol. i would be shocked if you are under like 90*C
Click to expand...

definately it wont be stable, it is more a test of what clock i can boot into windows and validate. thats the idea


----------



## Gubz

I'm hitting 80c on my 2600k with two Corsair SP120 running at around 600rpm, seems rather high compared to other people here.
Should I take it off and reapply thermal paste?

edit-
I'm running at only 4.2 ghz btw..


----------



## fishymamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gubz*
> 
> I'm hitting 80c on my 2600k with two Corsair SP120 running at around 600rpm, seems rather high compared to other people here.
> Should I take it off and reapply thermal paste?
> edit-
> I'm running at only 4.2 ghz btw..


Yeah that's pretty high for only 4.2. I hit around 80C on my 2700K at 4.8Ghz.


----------



## fishymamba

Something kinda scary happened to me today. I opened up my PC to clean the dust out. While doing that I took of the fan on my Hyper 212 EVO.
After cleaning everything I put the side panel back on and turned the computer on. Everything seemed to be OK so I was happy.
After watching a couple videos on youtube I decided to play some Battlefield 3.
I opened up realtemp before starting, every thing seemed normal, idle in the low 30Cs so I started playing battlefield. Game ran flawlessly, I played a couple rounds of 64 TDM and exited out of the game.
I looked at Realtemp and the max temp the CPU had gotten to was 88C! Usually I get temps in the low 50s. I opened up my case and realized I had left the fan disconnected from the mobo!
Thankfully my CPU was OK. I'm just happy that I didn't encode any videos or I would have probably killed my i7 2700K.

This got me thinking that if you had a low power CPU like some kind of i3 or low end i5, could you use the Hyper 212 EVO as a passive heatsink. Maybe just one case fan?


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> This got me thinking that if you had a low power CPU like some kind of i3 or low end i5, could you use the Hyper 212 EVO as a passive heatsink. Maybe just one case fan?


If you underclocked an AMD Sempron then mabye...


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> This got me thinking that if you had a low power CPU like some kind of i3 or low end i5, *could you use the Hyper 212 EVO as a passive heatsink*. Maybe just one case fan?


With the right case, I think this is possible. And I bet my Xb could pull it off. (I just wish I had the money to gamble to do it, you know, in case it doesn't work). Interesting idea though.


----------



## magicase

Between the 212 EVO and T4 which one has better cooling performance?


----------



## Alastair

I BROKE both the fans on my EVO once. Underclocked my Phenom 2 X4 to 2.2GHz and to 1.2v and I ran passively like that for over a week!


----------



## fishymamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I BROKE both the fans on my EVO once. Underclocked my Phenom 2 X4 to 2.2GHz and to 1.2v and I ran passively like that for over a week!


And looks like my fan just broke this morning







Lost all PWM control, now it runs at full speed all the time. Don't really know what happened, turned on my computer in the morning and I heard the fan spinning like crazy.


----------



## tac0slav3

Thanks for this thread







A lot of info on this thread, thanks to everyone who posted.


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> And looks like my fan just broke this morning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lost all PWM control, now it runs at full speed all the time. Don't really know what happened, turned on my computer in the morning and I heard the fan spinning like crazy.


I had a cheap Diablotek 500W PSU that had the same fan problem, it was pretty dang annoying, but it got replaced with a better one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tac0slav3*
> 
> Thanks for this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of info on this thread, thanks to everyone who posted.


You're welcome!


----------



## jman12311

How hot should a 3570k @ 4.2 with 1.23v get under load with this cooler? Temperature in the house is about 30c during the day and the highest cpu temp is 62c on core #0 while gaming and up to 87c on cores 1 and 2 during intel burn test.


----------



## chinesethunda

depends on the cooling in your case, but i'd say under load probably 40-50C


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jman12311*
> 
> How hot should a 3570k @ 4.2 with 1.23v get under load with this cooler? Temperature in the house is about 30c during the day and the highest cpu temp is 62c on core #0 while gaming and up to 87c on cores 1 and 2 during intel burn test.


Under load you should be able to stay in the 70's (intel burn test) even with a 30c ambient.
Try checking your fan profiles or posibly even reseating. Airflow good in the case?


----------



## jman12311

I'm using the Haf xm case with only the stock fans. Would I need to get more?
Speedfan is telling me that the fan is running at 100%.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Well.. After about ten weeks (yes you read that right), the 4412M is finally here.

Although it's not exactly what I expected when I opened the box.

Instead of a five bladed giant-scythe-from-hell design, it's a more conservative nine-bladed design. On the weekend, I'm going to put it on the hyper 212 and see what results I get from both configurations. I expect a good result from either configuration seeing as the biggest selling point for me was the fact it has at least 8mmH20 static pressure.


----------



## Ramsey77

http://www.techpowerup.com/mobile/178500/Cooler-Master-Announces-Hyper-212X-CPU-Cooler.html

The new Hyper 212X. I am curious about the new fan.


----------



## Ramsey77

Double post.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/mobile/178500/Cooler-Master-Announces-Hyper-212X-CPU-Cooler.html
> 
> The new Hyper 212X. I am curious about the new fan.


212x hey??? Hmmmm...







I wonder what improvements it brings to the table compared to the EVO. Soldered the fins to the heat pipes rather than press fitting them on? Another base improvement? I don't think they would launch a new model of heatsink just because of a fan.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> 212x hey??? Hmmmm...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder what improvements it brings to the table compared to the EVO. Soldered the fins to the heat pipes rather than press fitting them on? Another base improvement? I don't think they would launch a new model of heatsink just because of a fan.


Did you read the thing??
Quote:


> It includes the proven effective, patented Quad Continuous Direct Contact (CDC) heatpipe layout. Then, it steps forward by further improving the aluminum fin array with a new Tunnel Effect layout that not only improves the exchange of heat, but reduces overall noise.


Quote:


> The fan has also been upgraded to include a long life and high durability POM bearing fan that has a mean time between failures (MTBF) of 160,000 hours. This redesigned fan includes specially developed blades that create vortices to boost airflow and keep noise levels down. This includes a Smart Fan engine feature that helps reduce damage or injury by stopping the fan when blocked and resuming operation when the block has been cleared.


They're lucky Noctua didn't patent the fan blade design.


----------



## All3n

Who on earth cleans their fan while it's running, that I gotta see.


----------



## Shikaka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Did you read the thing??
> They're lucky Noctua didn't patent the fan blade design.


I think Noctua's design looks different?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shikaka*
> 
> I think Noctua's design looks different?


They look similar and perform similar functions.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> Who on earth cleans their fan while it's running, that I gotta see.


I do sometimes, it helps when I blast dust then let the fans blow away the rest of it away out of the case.


----------



## boxwunder13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069
> 
> Best $10 fans ever.
> 
> Edit: sorry about the botched link. Fixed.


I may have to get those. I have been on the market for some good PWM fans that are made for a heat sink. I have also had good luck with Cooler Master fans and products overall. Thanks for the recommendation.


----------



## Gavush

naturally they come out with something "better" 8 days after I get mine. I'm still banking the 212evo performance/dollar and the cooling capacity I need it was the best choice.


----------



## fishymamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> naturally they come out with something "better" 8 days after I get mine. I'm still banking the 212evo performance/dollar and the cooling capacity I need it was the best choice.


Don't worry, I bet there will be little to no difference in cooling.


----------



## mistermenphis22

Quick question, is anybodys fans really loud. I got them down to 50 percent and they are still loud. I would say they top more than 40db as i can hear them over my fridge xD


----------



## All3n

I run my CPU fan on low, the CPU will ramp up the speed when it heats up to 45C, although it hasn't' yet, so it just idles away quietly.

Try turning it all they way down, there should not be much of a temperature difference.


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> In the factory configuration, the exhaust comes out the opposite side of the fan, as mentioned above, point it which ever way you like. (Up or Back)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Ok the Evo took me about 30min to figure out but I eventually got it in. The rest of the build took me about 20min.


I'm still a little confused about fan orientation. I just installed my 212+ this past weekend and it is setup in push/pull. I may have it going the wrong way though... In the above picture, is that push or pull? I guess the best question would be, I'm using the stock fan and ordered the exact same fan to use on the other side. Can someone post a picture of how the fan is suppose to be facing for proper P/P out the rear exhaust? Maybe I can get a clue by the way a sticker is facing. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> I'm still a little confused about fan orientation. I just installed my 212+ this past weekend and it is setup in push/pull. I may have it going the wrong way though... In the above picture, is that push or pull? I guess the best question would be, I'm using the stock fan and ordered the exact same fan to use on the other side. Can someone post a picture of how the fan is suppose to be facing for proper P/P out the rear exhaust? Maybe I can get a clue by the way a sticker is facing. Thanks in advance!


Both of the fan frames should be facing the same way, and facing the direction you want to exhaust the air. If you look on the frame of the fan it should have two arrows, one for fan rotation and one for air direction. Make sure the arrows point the same direction.


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Both of the fan frames should be facing the same way, and facing the direction you want to exhaust the air. If you look on the frame of the fan it should have two arrows, one for fan rotation and one for air direction. Make sure the arrows point the same direction.


Great, thanks! I do not know why I didn't even think about the fans. I think the original fan came pre-installed if I remember correctly. I just turned the other fan in the same direction and threw it on there. Didn't even think about turning the computer on with the side off and feel the air flow to make sure it was in the right direction







Was too excited to boot it up. Guess I will have to do some testing when I get home tonight. Thanks for the info!

Just saw the pictures. Thank you very much! I think that I have it seated correctly. I am still going to open it up while it is running just to make sure that they are in the right direction. What kind of temps are you seeing?


----------



## Ramsey77

Intake side:


Exhaust side:


----------



## All3n

lol looks backwards.

Anyhow for future use, the side of the fan that has the 3 support arms that attach the motor to the frame is the exhaust.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> What kind of temps are you seeing?


Posted this a few pages back. Temps are awesome with my new case. Ambient temperature of the room is ~20C.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> looks backwards.


What looks backwards?


----------



## bhardy1185

Grrrr. Nice temps. I barely sniff that at stock cpu settings and running prime95. I'm getting in the upper 80's with anything above 4.2GHz. Not sure if the paste needs time to "burn in" or not. Not enjoying the temps so far


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> Grrrr. Nice temps. I barely sniff that at stock cpu settings and running prime95. I'm getting in the upper 80's with anything above 4.2GHz. Not sure if the paste needs time to "burn in" or not. Not enjoying the temps so far


Did you just install it? Remember to remove the sticker?


----------



## bhardy1185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Did you just install it? Remember to remove the sticker?


I have actually had the cooler for over 2 years and just installed it. I did take everything off of it when I first planned on installing. I'm 99.9% sure that I took everything off of it that is suppose to be. I have cleaned it several times due to reseating/putting it on another build for a very short time.


----------



## bhardy1185

Well, got home and checked out the cooler. Fans where definitely blowing in the wrong direction. They were doing push/pull but just the wrong way







Running Prime95 right now at 4.2GHz and so far getting a lot better temps. Not saying that they are really great but they are better than what they were last night. Max temps so far after about 5 minutes are 75 on one and 71-68 on the other three cores. Definitely better than the 79-80 I was getting last night.

I don't have a lot of time tonight to mess around with the computer but I'm going to try to bump it up a little more and leave it running for a couple hours and see what I get. Thanks for the help Ramsey77! Will update later on the results.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhardy1185*
> 
> Well, got home and checked out the cooler. Fans where definitely blowing in the wrong direction. They were doing push/pull but just the wrong way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running Prime95 right now at 4.2GHz and so far getting a lot better temps. Not saying that they are really great but they are better than what they were last night. Max temps so far after about 5 minutes are 75 on one and 71-68 on the other three cores. Definitely better than the 79-80 I was getting last night.
> 
> I don't have a lot of time tonight to mess around with the computer but I'm going to try to bump it up a little more and leave it running for a couple hours and see what I get. *Thanks for the help Ramsey77!* Will update later on the results.


Glad we got you sorted out man.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

I just stuck the new papst fan onto the hyper 212+ and so far, i'm really liking it. Now, do you guys want me to do a writeup in this thread, or do you want me to create a new one?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> I just stuck the new papst fan onto the hyper 212+ and so far, i'm really liking it. Now, do you guys want me to do a writeup in this thread, or do you want me to create a new one?


If you are going to do a review of the fan, make a new thread, but be sure to share a summary of your findings in this thread too.


----------



## pantomime horse

Installed a Hyper 212 Evo on the 27th of December. Pretty good cooler so far. I have thought about getting a new fan for it, though. Either for backup or to replace the original one. Anyone have any suggestions? Depending on the fan it will either be a backup or a replacement.

As for temps, I'm getting 31C on two cores and 35C on the other two cores at idle. I'm using it on my i5-750.


----------



## boxwunder13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pantomime horse*
> 
> Installed a Hyper 212 Evo on the 27th of December. Pretty good cooler so far. I have thought about getting a new fan for it, though. Either for backup or to replace the original one. Anyone have any suggestions? Depending on the fan it will either be a backup or a replacement.
> 
> As for temps, I'm getting 31C on two cores and 35C on the other two cores at idle. I'm using it on my i5-750.


I would suggest setting up push/pull fans on the heat sink. Get the good PWM fans with a high amount of static pressure, they are made for moving air past heat sinks and radiators. You will see even more drops in temps because even my 965 @ 3.8Ghz w/ 1.5v runs around 30-34C during idle with a push/pull set up. See sig rig for full specs. Cooler Master makes some good heat sink fans for only 10.99 and they have good reviews on newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boxwunder13*
> 
> Cooler Master makes some good heat sink fans for only 10.99 and they have good reviews on newegg. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069


2 of those in P/P and you are all set.

EDIT: and they are $9.99 btw..... Best $10 fans there is.


----------



## pantomime horse

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll take a look at them.


----------



## All3n

Don't worry about the fan so much, just about anything will work, and you don't even need much pressure.

The fans are not "cooling" the rad, they are simply exchanging the air that immediately surrounds the rad, which can be done with a gentle breeze. That is why 2 fans are not really better then one, because one does the job easily.

Base your purchase on sound level and price, don't blindly follow these cats around.

There is no "best" fan for these.


----------



## edsai

I would say to use push pull for a bit less noise.

Two Blade Master spinning at 1500rpm are much quieter then one Blade Master spinng at max 2000rpm and keeping about the same temps.

The Evo stock fan (XtraFlo) isn't quiet at higher speeds and in my opinion it has a loud motor noise then the Blade Master.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> I would say to use push pull for a bit less noise.
> 
> Two Blade Master spinning at 1500rpm is much quieter then one Blade Master spinng at max 2000rpm and keeping about the same temps.
> 
> The Evo stock fan (XtraFlo) aren't quiet at higher speeds and in my opinion it have a loud motor noise then the Blade Master.


Agreed.


----------



## chinesethunda

2 blademasters will be quieter and cool better, but if you are under load a lot it will still be just as loud, but they aren't that loud of fans imo.


----------



## pantomime horse

Thanks. I do want a backup fan, though, for sure because I've had fans fail on me before and it's always best to have a spare handy. The fans that sit on the top of my case, likely because they are in a horizontal position, seem especially prone to fail. Since my CM Hyper Evo fan is in an upright position I'm not as worried about having it go bad on my soon, but I still want a spare fan on hand.

Using push/pull as a quieter solution sounds like a great idea. Will definitely consider that when making a purchase.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> Don't worry about the fan so much, just about anything will work, and you don't even need much pressure.
> 
> The fans are not "cooling" the rad, they are simply exchanging the air that immediately surrounds the rad, which can be done with a gentle breeze. That is why 2 fans are not really better then one, because one does the job easily.
> 
> Base your purchase on sound level and price, don't blindly follow these cats around.
> 
> There is no "best" fan for these.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you serious? I hope you're kidding. If not, go post this opinion over in water-cooling and see how hard you get flamed.
Click to expand...

different situation. cooling a 212+ or evo is not the same as a cooling a rad in a water setup. it does not take a mega high RPM or really high static pressure fan to make a 212 cool a cpu. it helps with a few extra degrees but having an overkill fan is not a requirement lol


----------



## edsai

It's always recommended to use good fans for heatsinks and radiators.

There's also other good and well recommended fans than the Blade Master like Noctua's and Cougar's.

In my opinion the Blade Master is a wise choice because it's a cheap fan for any budget cooler like the 212.

I would say it's also a nice backup fan for the case.
It has nice static pressure that should be useful as front fan because the front dust filter restricts the air flow.
So a good front fan should help cooling specially drive cages with 2 or more hard disks.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> Don't worry about the fan so much, just about anything will work, and you don't even need much pressure.
> 
> The fans are not "cooling" the rad, they are simply exchanging the air that immediately surrounds the rad, which can be done with a gentle breeze. That is why 2 fans are not really better then one, because one does the job easily.
> 
> Base your purchase on sound level and price, don't blindly follow these cats around.
> 
> There is no "best" fan for these.


tell that to the thousands of engineers that design cooling systems for cars.


----------



## All3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> tell that to the thousands of engineers that design cooling systems for cars.


You mean the cooling fans that usually don't even run most of the time?









I can promise you there are not "thousands" of engineers designing cooling fans for cars. At most they are designing shrouds and mounts to fit within a given design.

Don't get all science on me because you won't win.
The fan vs radiator size on a 212 is huge, most cars however have a fan that equals less then half the surface area of the rad, even still most of the time the radiator works efficiently with indirect air flow due to it's location at the front of the vehicle.

Virtually any forward motion at all is sufficient to keep the fan from engaging in a modern car. Since a Hyper 212 is stationary, you need a bit of active airflow, just like a stationary car.

If you look at the tolerances of automotive fans, you will notice that they are not sucking air through the rad, they are evacuating the air behind the rad causing a slight negative vacuum the allows higher pressure cool air to work it's way through in an attempt to equalize pressure. Basically, a fan ca displace that volume of air easily, there is no need to have a turbine here. You will also notice there is sometimes inches of airspace between the fan and the rad for this to happen.

If you have a cooling system that is that dependent on a fan, it is not properly sized to begin with.

Incidentally if you scale the fan speed up, you will also notice automotive fans spin extremely slow, slower then PC fans.

Let's not get into the "marketing" of water cooling computers. While water does an excellent job at transferring heat, I feel that only the top of the line systems do a reasonable job at dealing with the heat.
The rest become quickly saturated, needing "fan science" like you claim to get them working reasonably. While they are slightly cooler, they should be, especially given the added noise, cost and decrease in reliability.

Flaws in the design of these water cooling systems become quickly apparent when you notice the surface area is bigger on a "water" system for a given temperature, which shows you that they in fact are not designed very well.
Case in point, there is not a water system out there that runs as cool as a 212 with a 120mm rad and fan.

Water cooling and air cooling are the exact same thing, they are both air cooling a heat exchanging surface.
You see water will boil when it is at low pressure, actually it will boil as low as 0 Celcius, which is also the freezing temperature, at least in Canada. So when you fabricate a "heat pipe" such as the Hyper 212, you actually have a water cooled system, that literally contains water, or another coolant such as alcohol or ammonia.
The best part is, it doesn't need a grinding pump motor move the fluid around, beautiful really. It can do a better job, because the coolant boils on the processor.

The reason a steam burn is much more severe then water a half degree cooler is the same reason "Heat pipes" do a better job with less infrastructure.

I fail to see why you insist on using an inferior cooling technology as something to strive for with gas cooling.

That's right, I just coined the phrase "Gas cooling".


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> You mean the cooling fans that usually don't even run most of the time?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can promise you there are not "thousands" of engineers designing cooling fans for cars. /SNIP


Well, if you can't sort out the difference between A FAN and A SYSTEM, you have some serious reading comprehension issues that I won't be able to help you with. I won't go "all science" on you because it's not because I'll lose, it's because you won't understand it. In other words: Mine are bigger than yours so don't even try.

I skipped the rest of the post because I know what kind of a person it's coming from, and experience tells me to not even bother with someone who's this full of crap.

On a final note, you didn't coin the term 'gas cooling'. it's been around for years in nuclear reactors and MIG welders. Nice try though.

Anyways, I just finished my writeup of the 4412M fan, and I invite you all to have a look at it. http://www.overclock.net/t/1349204/mini-review-of-the-ebmpapst-4412m-cooling-fan

here's a shot of it mounted and ready to serve.  bloody love it.


----------



## Penryn

I'll be watching this... we're getting borderline uncivil in here. Let this be a warning. Watch what and how you post...


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> Well, if you can't sort out the difference between A FAN and A SYSTEM, you have some serious reading comprehension issues that I won't be able to help you with. I won't go "all science" on you because it's not because I'll lose, it's because you won't understand it. In other words: Mine are bigger than yours so don't even try.
> 
> I skipped the rest of the post because I know what kind of a person it's coming from, and experience tells me to not even bother with someone who's this full of crap.
> 
> On a final note, you didn't coin the term 'gas cooling'. it's been around for years in nuclear reactors and MIG welders. Nice try though.
> 
> Anyways, I just finished my writeup of the 4412M fan, and I invite you all to have a look at it. http://www.overclock.net/t/1349204/mini-review-of-the-ebmpapst-4412m-cooling-fan
> 
> here's a shot of it mounted and ready to serve.  bloody love it.


Did you lose your plastic mounting clips for your 212? They should be able to be swapped on your new fan. (your solution works too, I'm just curious).


----------



## Captain Mayhem

yeah, I still have them. They just wouldn't work with the foam gasket I made.


----------



## SlvrYeti

I got one of these (Evo) for my 3770k and I'm highly disappointed with the 30c-40c idle and 60c-75c load temps. Thinking of changing the fan to a better one but don't want it any louder than the stock at max speed. Any suggestions?


----------



## All3n

If you are not happy with 30s idle temp then you may not ever be happy. What were your temps before, with which cooler?

Sounds like you need to consult with Captain Mayhem. He will help you pick out a fan that will have you idling at around -5 C, 10 C under load.


----------



## SlvrYeti

New build All3n, was recommended this cooler for overclocking the chip on air.


----------



## All3n

You sound like a good candidate for water cooling. Your idle temps are fine, but your OC is saturating the 212.


----------



## pantomime horse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> yeah, I still have them. They just wouldn't work with the foam gasket I made.


Thanks for the review.

Please tell me, though, that your next project involves using a can of compressed air...


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrYeti*
> 
> I got one of these (Evo) for my 3770k and I'm highly disappointed with the 30c-40c idle and 60c-75c load temps. Thinking of changing the fan to a better one but don't want it any louder than the stock at max speed. Any suggestions?


Are you running your chip at stock settings and voltage, or are you overclocking?


----------



## SlvrYeti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Are you running your chip at stock settings and voltage, or are you overclocking?


Stock. Overclocked to 4.0Ghz at a lower voltage = a little lower. I've got two of the Evos in two identical systems and both get around the same temps.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrYeti*
> 
> Stock. Overclocked to 4.0Ghz at a lower voltage = a little lower. I've got two of the Evos in two identical systems and both get around the same temps.


What is your ambient temp? I know that Ivy runs a bit hotter when OC'd, but if yours is running a lower voltage than stock I would expect a little lower temps at load than what you are getting.


----------



## SlvrYeti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> What is your ambient temp? I know that Ivy runs a bit hotter when OC'd, but if yours is running a lower voltage than stock I would expect a little lower temps at load than what you are getting.


Amb temp is 20c. I've changed the paste 3 times and remounted it but at present @ 4.0Ghz 1.17v I'm at 40c idle average.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrYeti*
> 
> Amb temp is 20c. I've changed the paste 3 times and remounted it but at present @ 4.0Ghz 1.17v I'm at 40c idle average.


Yeah, that sure doesn't seem right to me at all. Take a look at my temps, with the same ambient temperature, and a 130 watt processor @ 4.75 and 1.36v with two *Blade Masters* in Push/Pull configuration:


----------



## SlvrYeti

I've no clue on how to make it any better. It's in a stock fanned 550d if that helps with MX-4 paste.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrYeti*
> 
> I've no clue on how to make it any better. It's in a stock fanned 550d if that helps with MX-4 paste.


When you mounted it, did you turn your screws in until they bottomed out? Maybe you don't have adequate pressure on the CPU? (I'm just throwing ideas out there at this point). Is there a big temperature range between cores? Or are they all about the same?

Edit: And does your thermal paste have a long curing time? I am not familiar with MX4.


----------



## SlvrYeti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> When you mounted it, did you turn your screws in until they bottomed out? Maybe you don't have adequate pressure on the CPU? (I'm just throwing ideas out there at this point). Is there a big temperature range between cores? Or are they all about the same?
> 
> Edit: And does your thermal paste have a long curing time? I am not familiar with MX4.


No cure time, I turned them until I could no more (they are not flat obviously due to the spring). Could you advise what you mean by bottomed out? Also, if I touch the fins/end of the copper pipes when the CPU is supposedly at 70c then it feels barely warm.

Core 3 is the hottest it seems.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrYeti*
> 
> No cure time, I turned them until I could no more (they are not flat obviously due to the spring). Could you advise what you mean by bottomed out? Also, if I touch the fins/end of the copper pipes when the CPU is supposedly at 70c then it feels barely warm.
> 
> Core 3 is the hottest it seems.


Sorry, I forgot that LGA 1155 uses a backplate and springs, whereas my LGA 2011 has a backplate built in to the motherboard, and uses plain bolts and standoffs instead of springs.

The base of your cooler won't be as warm as what your CPU claims due to it taking readings straight from sensors in the die, under the IHS. Are your readings taken with the case closed up? If so, maybe open it up and see what happens. If it drops 10 degrees, you know your case is starving your cooler of cool, outside air.


----------



## SlvrYeti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Sorry, I forgot that LGA 1155 uses a backplate and springs, whereas my LGA 2011 has a backplate built in to the motherboard, and uses plain bolts and standoffs instead of springs.
> 
> The base of your cooler won't be as warm as what your CPU claims due to it taking readings straight from sensors in the die, under the IHS. Are your readings taken with the case closed up? If so, maybe open it up and see what happens. If it drops 10 degrees, you know your case is starving your cooler of cool, outside air.


I've actually just done that lol! RealTemp is showing fluxuations of 26c to 38c with 38c being the average so I don't think it's the case. Just checked the other PC and it's at 41c.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrYeti*
> 
> I've actually just done that lol! RealTemp is showing fluxuations of 26c to 37c with 38c being the average so I don't think it's the case. Just checked the other PC and it's at 41c.


Under load will be a better indicator. Sensors can be a bit shady at idle. I would run both, one open, one closed and run Intel Burn Test, or Prime 95 for a while to see how much they differ. And you could try setting up one cooler in Push/Pull to see what that does. But generally, assuming performance based off of idle temps can be misleading.


----------



## SlvrYeti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Under load will be a better indicator. Sensors can be a bit shady at idle. I would run both, one open, one closed and run Intel Burn Test, or Prime 95 for a while to see how much they differ. And you could try setting up one cooler in Push/Pull to see what that does. But generally, assuming performance based off of idle temps can be misleading.


Within seconds Prime95, case closed is showing readings of 69c on core 3. Again at 4Ghz 1.17v.


----------



## All3n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> ok so tell me this. Why is it that when you increase the airflow through the radiator, temperatures decrease?
> 
> I see you for what you are... troll.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No problem.
> For gas cooling? or are you ribbing me?


Have you not heard of diminishing returns, I know it's a hard concept for you to grasp. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diminishing_returns


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> ah yes, of course. Not quite time for the annual 'make the parts look pretty' rubdown yet but it's getting close.


Most of the members of OCN, have OCD about their cases and dust. It's a common affliction around here, don't worry too much about it. Lol


----------



## Captain Mayhem

yeah i've been sick for a long long time.

FIN DENSITY!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> FIN DENSITY!


Made me think of George McFly.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> ah yes, of course. Not quite time for the annual 'make the parts look pretty' rubdown yet but it's getting close.
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the members of OCN, have OCD about their cases and dust. It's a common affliction around here, don't worry too much about it. Lol
Click to expand...

I'm one of those clean PC OCD freaks. Guilty as charged!


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I'm one of those clean PC OCD freaks. Guilty as charged!


Me too, but i can understand people that aren't. It can be tedious to keep a rig clean. I actually enjoy tooling around in my case so it's no big deal to me. I even bought a one gallon air compressor just for cleaning. Lol. Beats lugging my 30 gallon out of the basement (no garage at our new house yet), or unwinding/rewinding 90 feet of air hose.


----------



## Penryn

Ok, had to delete 10 more posts in here. Let's keep this club thread on topic or it will be locked. Any more trolling/rude/incoherent posts will be met with action taken accordingly.


----------



## All3n

Hey where did my last 10 posts go?

Compressed air is great. I also use a 1" wide paint brush for any dust that is a little more stubborn. I hear you should use a certain type of brush due to static reasons, but I have been OK so far. Use at your own risk.

It's pretty easy to keep clean if you stay on top of things with air. That picture is pretty extreme, so it's going to need a brushing. It's worse if you smoke cigrits.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *All3n*
> 
> Hey where did my last 10 posts go?
> 
> Compressed air is great. I also use a 1" wide paint brush for any dust that is a little more stubborn. I hear you should use a certain type of brush due to static reasons, but I have been OK so far. Use at your own risk.
> 
> It's pretty easy to keep clean if you stay on top of things with air. That picture is pretty extreme, so it's going to need a brushing. It's worse if you smoke cigrits.


Cigarettes and pets. Cats/Dogs especially. I fixed a PS3 that was literally stuffed with cat hair and cigarette smoke. It looked like an insulated attic. I use an old tooth brush also.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

My favourite method (and this is about OCD as it gets) is to take my entire rig apart, and clean every part with rubbing alcohol.

Yes, I even clean the connectors.









What's got me scratching my head about the 212+ is even though the airflow through my case is rather unchanged, I saw an increase in load temperatures of five degrees when I switched from horizontal to vertical. Could the heatpipes not be coping as well with fighting gravity as some others?


----------



## fishymamba

I just blow out the dust with compressed air. I'm not going to take anything apart unless my temps start rising because of dust in the heatsink.
My MSI 660Ti spins it's fans backwards at 100% speed at startup to throw out any dust and it actually does a really good job, I have not even had to use compressed air on it.
The Hyper 212 gets REALLY dusty, I need to make some dust filters for my case. Anyone have any ideas of what will work? Will a fine window mesh work?


----------



## Phenomanator53

I just sprayed my top fin matte black as well, looks really nice













BTW My fans are Wing 12PL's both the CPU and exhaust run off the CPU fan header (my mobo has 2 headers for the CPU fan







)


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> My favourite method (and this is about OCD as it gets) is to take my entire rig apart, and clean every part with rubbing alcohol.
> 
> Yes, I even clean the connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's got me scratching my head about the 212+ is even though the airflow through my case is rather unchanged, I saw an increase in load temperatures of five degrees when I switched from horizontal to vertical. Could the heatpipes not be coping as well with fighting gravity as some others?


I would guess that the heatpipes are more efficient when laid horizontally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> I just blow out the dust with compressed air. I'm not going to take anything apart unless my temps start rising because of dust in the heatsink.
> My MSI 660Ti spins it's fans backwards at 100% speed at startup to throw out any dust and it actually does a really good job, I have not even had to use compressed air on it.
> The Hyper 212 gets REALLY dusty, I need to make some dust filters for my case. *Anyone have any ideas of what will work?* Will a fine window mesh work?


You could either buy some like *THESE* or you could make some out of pantyhose for dirt cheap.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> I would guess that the heatpipes are more efficient when laid horizontally.


That seems to be the case. I kind of hoped CM used heatpipes that can deal with such a situation better, but oh well.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> That seems to be the case. I kind of hoped CM used heatpipes that can deal with such a situation better, but oh well.


Or you could buy a Cooler Master HAF Xb like mine that sets the motherboard horizontal. I love this case. Awesome deal for $100.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

I'm actually planning an ITX build using a Prodigy. So the 212+ or whatever I end up replacing it with will sit nice and tall.. and eat up as much airflow as I can throw at it.

Today, we moun the passing of a good friend, and one that's been with me for an all too short period of time; the i5 760k. In the pursuit of a more efficient air setup, I changed the 212+ around to have the mounted fan pointing out the rear of the case. And while cleaning off the CPU after a lap, something happened to it.


----------



## lee_hacken

anyone know what is the different between 212X?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee_hacken*
> 
> anyone know what is the different between 212X?


Better fin design and a MUCH better fan (in theory).


----------



## shadow water

and 50% of people will still change the fan so the fin change better be a good one lol


----------



## Ramsey77

Anxious to see some reviews on this.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee_hacken*
> 
> anyone know what is the different between 212X?


Your username seems familiar...... Are you from Hong Kong?


----------



## mikemartinco

newest member with 2 aluminum fans on each side! in sig....


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemartinco*
> 
> newest member with 2 aluminum fans on each side! in sig....


Nice fans.


----------



## Jerm357

Does anyone know where to find the fans for sale that comes with the EVO? I can find the Blademaster fans that comes with the Plus model every where, but not the EVO fans.


----------



## Phenomanator53

they are called Xtraflo fans.

Edit: http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6754


----------



## edsai

You can find the XtraFlo in the CM's store but I've heard that is really costly.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jerm357*
> 
> Does anyone know where to find the fans for sale that comes with the EVO? I can find the Blademaster fans that comes with the Plus model every where, but not the EVO fans.


Why that fan when the BladeMaster performs better?


----------



## Captain Mayhem

just finished building the replacement rig a few hours ago and have I got something to show you guys... Pictures when I log on net time.


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Foam Gasket v.2




Inside the system



How tight was it to install the board with a fan at the top?



that tight.


----------



## mikemartinco

Seriously that is one ingenious way to use a zip tie. Just a square from a secondary tie.


----------



## Wabbit16

Agreed! Nice work


----------



## Jared485

Hey i just have a quick question about my hyper 212 evo. I have 2 fans on it, and have had it mounted for awhile. But when i grab it i can spin the whole thing i can go until the fan hits the ram stick. I dont crank on it or anything. it rotates very easily i was just wondering if thats normal or did i not tighten it down enough did i not put enough paste???

thanks ahead of time


----------



## shadow water

when your tightening it make sure to bottom out the screws and if the doesnt help the find a washer to put between the x piece and the top of the heat plate


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemartinco*
> 
> Seriously that is one ingenious way to use a zip tie. Just a square from a secondary tie.


yeah it's pretty nice because I could adjust the compression on the gasket before dropping the entire thing into the case.

One idea I had when I did this was to find some metric hardware to replace the zipties... but I couldn't find anyone who made any m1.5x140mm bolts. Sure, I could chop out a fin or two to make better room for the bolts that could fit through the fan's holes, but I didn't really want to, seeing as I wanted to get the rig up as fast as possible.

maybe with the next version...


----------



## Jared485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> when your tightening it make sure to bottom out the screws and if the doesnt help the find a washer to put between the x piece and the top of the heat plate


Ok, so what your saying is its not normal, now will it have hurt anything, because the cpu is staying cool and in contact with it, but it should be immobile?? Ill make sure its all tight. Thanks


----------



## boxwunder13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenomanator53*
> 
> I just sprayed my top fin matte black as well, looks really nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW My fans are Wing 12PL's both the CPU and exhaust run off the CPU fan header (my mobo has 2 headers for the CPU fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


LIke the green and black. Was curious if those green case fans were Gelid? These fans; GELID 120mm Green LED I was looking at some for my heat sink instead of the blue ones that are not really made to cool a heat sink. I also decided to eventually to a green/white/black set up for my case and GELID fans are nice. Nice set up as well. I love that matte black paint on the 212. I had that same idea and I was curious if the paint effects the cooling performance. How were your temps after the paint? Thanks and nice rig man.


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> Ok, so what your saying is its not normal, now will it have hurt anything, because the cpu is staying cool and in contact with it, but it should be immobile?? Ill make sure its all tight. Thanks


it shouldnt have hurt anything but if its tighter to the cpu youll get better temps
but yes it shouldnt move. maybe wiggle but not completely move


----------



## Jared485

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow water*
> 
> it shouldnt have hurt anything but if its tighter to the cpu youll get better temps
> but yes it shouldnt move. maybe wiggle but not completely move


ok thanks!


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared485*
> 
> Hey i just have a quick question about my hyper 212 evo. I have 2 fans on it, and have had it mounted for awhile. But when i grab it i can spin the whole thing i can go until the fan hits the ram stick. I dont crank on it or anything. it rotates very easily i was just wondering if thats normal or did i not tighten it down enough did i not put enough paste???
> 
> thanks ahead of time


If you can spin it that much... then you might not have lined up the notch right. If you can spin it that much, it could disturb the thermal paste and allow air bubbles in, which will lower performance.

I would say take it off and reapply. Look at the mechanism, and look at a video tutorial so you know how to do it right. Their is a way to do it for each socket, so you need to follow those directions.


----------



## Gavush

replaced all my fans with Xigmatek XAF-F1255 and added two XAF-F1454


----------



## mikemartinco

looks super clean i like it


----------



## fishymamba

I just noticed that there is quite a bit of air coming out the top of my Hyper 212 EVO between the fan and heatsink. Should I block it off with a piece of tape or something?
I don't care about the temperatures, but the vent points right at my case window and leaves a line of dust on it.


----------



## rainbrodash666

I actualy have wondered the same thing, the best thing to cover the gap and still look nice through a window.


----------



## shadow water

If I were you guys I would take a piece of foam tape cut it about an 1/8 inch or less wide and run it along the top two or three fins. It might be I bit tight put the fan back on but it wont really be seen if you get black foam tape smooth with the top and it will prevent that dust build it


----------



## kensterman

This might have already been asked, so forgive me!

Does the 212 EVO actually installs slightly crooked because of the bump in the X mechansim?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kensterman*
> 
> This might have already been asked, so forgive me!
> 
> Does the 212 EVO actually installs slightly crooked because of the bump in the X mechansim?


No. The bump is mirrored by a small hole in the actual heatsink support. Or something like it.


----------



## Paliosh

Fresh new 212 evo joining the clube


----------



## SteevyT

And another 212 EVO joining. Great cooler, although my temps have been strangely dropping as I run [email protected] rather than increasing. Last night they were at 50ºC, today they are a good 5-6º cooler. Oh well, here is my pic. (No, I don't have a graphics card right now, it's at MSI's RMA center







)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteevyT*
> 
> And another 212 EVO joining. Great cooler, although my temps have been strangely dropping as I run [email protected] rather than increasing. Last night they were at 50ºC, today they are a good 5-6º cooler. Oh well, here is my pic. (No, I don't have a graphics card right now, it's at MSI's RMA center
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Maybe your room gets colder.


----------



## SteevyT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Maybe your room gets colder.


Could be, I'm not actually there to feel what the room temperature is like. I was logging into my desktop through TeamViewer from campus.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SteevyT*
> 
> And another 212 EVO joining. Great cooler, although my temps have been strangely dropping as I run [email protected] rather than increasing. Last night they were at 50ºC, today they are a good 5-6º cooler. Oh well, here is my pic. (No, I don't have a graphics card right now, it's at MSI's RMA center
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


WOW! Nice wire management.


----------



## KyleMart06

Hey, just joining the group but have had the computer built since early/mid December 2012. Pics in sig rig "Chilly Hack". Such a nice cooler.


----------



## CS14

Count me in









Just came today


----------



## Captain Mayhem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CS14*
> 
> Count me in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just came today


nice build.

Now switch to a pull config and watch as your load temps drop by 2-3 deg C


----------



## CS14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain Mayhem*
> 
> nice build.
> 
> Now switch to a pull config and watch as your load temps drop by 2-3 deg C


Thanks
(Will be better when I get my 7770 back)

I'll probably give push a try here soon, although I plan on upgrading fans and going p/p soon anyways.


----------



## mikemartinco

say bye to this beauty! shes only 2 weeks old and i have to sell it because i was able to fit an h100 in the front of a scout 2 !

she will be missed


----------



## jas2377

Added the Hyper 212+ with some push/pull NZXT fans. Case is an IN-WIN GRone.


----------



## DrBrogbo

I've had a 212+ installed in my system for about 6 months now, and I'm currently changing to a larger case with more room, but I have a few questions for you guys:

Is it better to mount it so the fans blow to the back of the case or the top? My thinking was "heat rises, so let's help it along" and I mounted it top/bottom, but I notice WAY more people having theirs mounted side/side. Is that just a space thing, or is it more efficient somehow?

Also, do I need to worry about putting too heavy a fan on? I want to install some 38mm thick fans like this with RIDICULOUS static pressure, or maybe I'll stick with my 3000 RPM scythe ultra kaze. Do I need to worry about gravity pulling the heatsink slightly away from the top 2 cores, or is there really no flex at all with the mounting?

Thanks in advance. I'm blown away by how well this thing works.


----------



## SteevyT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrBrogbo*
> 
> I've had a 212+ installed in my system for about 6 months now, and I'm currently changing to a larger case with more room, but I have a few questions for you guys:
> 
> Is it better to mount it so the fans blow to the back of the case or the top? My thinking was "heat rises, so let's help it along" and I mounted it top/bottom, but I notice WAY more people having theirs mounted side/side. Is that just a space thing, or is it more efficient somehow?
> 
> Also, do I need to worry about putting too heavy a fan on? I want to install some 38mm thick fans like this with RIDICULOUS static pressure, or maybe I'll stick with my 3000 RPM scythe ultra kaze. Do I need to worry about gravity pulling the heatsink slightly away from the top 2 cores, or is there really no flex at all with the mounting?
> 
> Thanks in advance. I'm blown away by how well this thing works.


I don't know what works best, I mounted mine horizontally like that because vertically blocked my RAM slots more than what horizontally does.


----------



## totalownership

Hey fellas. I have an EVO and was planning on installing a second fan on it. Got a couple of questions though:
1) Is it really worth it? What should I expect in gains?
2) I believe I only have on CPU Fan connection on my motherboard. How will I connect this second fan? Splitter? Just run it max and connect it to the regular connections?


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *totalownership*
> 
> Hey fellas. I have an EVO and was planning on installing a second fan on it. Got a couple of questions though:
> 1) Is it really worth it? What should I expect in gains?
> 2) I believe I only have on CPU Fan connection on my motherboard. How will I connect this second fan? Splitter? Just run it max and connect it to the regular connections?


1) depends on if you wnat to squeeze every *C you as temp difference is small such as approx 2*C
2) i have never used a spliter rather than i have used as sys_fan header for a second fan. others may do it differently


----------



## KyleMart06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jas2377*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added the Hyper 212+ with some push/pull NZXT fans. Case is an IN-WIN GRone.


Wow . . . NICE setup. I love the look of it. Also pretty Jealous of the graphics card.


----------



## phre0n

mine in a sad state until a couple days ago.. this is about 3-4 months without cleaning..


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phre0n*
> 
> mine in a sad state until a couple days ago.. this is about 3-4 months without cleaning..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Mine Looks the same after 2 weeks only.


----------



## tensionz

Ouu please add. 212+ EVO edition with stock fan (pull). Will post a pic and probably do push/pull in the near future. AMD X4 955 OC'd @ 3.85GHz 1.45V. 35-42c (load).


----------



## fatherof3

Hey guys, just a quick question:

Is the base of my hyper 212 aluminium? as i read that liquid metal ultra/pro cant be used on aluminium, i have bought pk1 just as a safeguard, but its for future reference.

Regards

To add, i use pipe cleaners to clean between the fins, then blow with the "air in a tin" its time consuming, but its better than just blowing it.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey guys, just a quick question:
> 
> Is the base of my hyper 212 aluminium? as i read that liquid metal ultra/pro cant be used on aluminium, i have bought pk1 just as a safeguard, but its for future reference.
> 
> Regards
> 
> To add, i use pipe cleaners to clean between the fins, then blow with the "air in a tin" its time consuming, but its better than just blowing it.


From my understanding, it is. From the Cooler Master website.. It was showing their continuous direct contact technology versus having gaps between the heatpipes. Also, PK1 is good tim, from what I've seen. I don't know how much better it is than the stock tim, though.


----------



## DrBrogbo

Is that what the difference between the 212+ and 212 Evo is? I could have sworn my 212+ looked like the bottom picture.


----------



## SteevyT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrBrogbo*
> 
> Is that what the difference between the 212+ and 212 Evo is? I could have sworn my 212+ looked like the bottom picture.


The EVO is the top picture, the 212+ is the bottom.


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> From my understanding, it is. From the Cooler Master website.. It was showing their continuous direct contact technology versus having gaps between the heatpipes. Also, PK1 is good tim, from what I've seen. I don't know how much better it is than the stock tim, though.


Hi Cy4n1d3,

Thanks, i bought the pk1 anyway, just to be sure, i will get lmu/p when i get my d14 in the summer when it comes to lapping and de-lidding.
Regards


----------



## hyperkite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrBrogbo*
> 
> Is that what the difference between the 212+ and 212 Evo is? I could have sworn my 212+ looked like the bottom picture.


Just a little information to consider.
Price being the difference paste is a lot easier to clean off with EVO having a smoother flat surface than 212+.
You do not have to deal with the paste getting in between heatpipes and ceramic.
Just a thought


----------



## InsideJob

Looks like I'll be coming back to the club. After a few months with an Antec Kuhler 620, I've decided to sell it to an interested friend and replace it back with a 212 evo. Threw a couple more Cooler Master green led 120mm fans on the order too


----------



## tensionz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tensionz*
> 
> Ouu please add. 212+ EVO edition with stock fan (pull). Will post a pic and probably do push/pull in the near future. AMD X4 955 OC'd @ 3.85GHz 1.45V. 35-42c (load).


Oops mean push*


----------



## InsideJob

I love these coolers


----------



## fishymamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyperkite*
> 
> Just a little information to consider.
> Price being the difference paste is a lot easier to clean off with EVO having a smoother flat surface than 212+.
> You do not have to deal with the paste getting in between heatpipes and ceramic.
> Just a thought


I got the EVO just for this reason. It was soo hard to get the TIM out of the cracks on my old CM TX3(smaller 212+). Takes a second with the EVO.


----------



## chinesethunda

honestly i didn't find much of a difference between an uber clean 212+ and a fairly clean 212+ when i reseated my 212+ each time I just cleaned off the majority of the TIM and whatever was in the crack I just left it as is and the temps between super clean and clean enough was no difference


----------



## Fuell

Just got the Evo to replace my old H50. AThis is my first tower cooler. Went from stock to CM Vortex 752 to H50. Just a bit of a hassle to work around for worse temps... and I got the Evo for $16 ($20 shipped) so I couldn't resist. Anyone got a suggestion for a decent budget fan for low noise on these coolers?


----------



## fishymamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fuell*
> 
> Just got the Evo to replace my old H50. AThis is my first tower cooler. Went from stock to CM Vortex 752 to H50. Just a bit of a hassle to work around for worse temps... and I got the Evo for $16 ($20 shipped) so I couldn't resist. Anyone got a suggestion for a decent budget fan for low noise on these coolers?


I have heard good things about Scythe Gentle Typhoons, but they are not really budget fans. Another option is the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition, those are ~$15 per fan.


----------



## pel

How long do you change the TIM? every year? also i guess the temperature and cpu usage matters.


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pel*
> 
> How long do you change the TIM? every year? also i guess the temperature and cpu usage matters.


i change my TIM about every 3 - 4 months as i remove my heatsinks to clean them and do a clean reseat. you could get away easily with longer periods of time if temps under load stay arround the same and the heatsink part isnt getting dusty


----------



## 161029

Hyper 212 EVO owner here. Forgot to join this club when I finished my build a few months ago.









Curious about how the NZXT Respire T40 does against the Hyper 212 EVO. IIRC the Respire T40 is fairly new. (don't flame me if this was a bad idea to say that here)

Edit: Pictures for submission.


----------



## dragonsamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pel*
> 
> How long do you change the TIM? every year? also i guess the temperature and cpu usage matters.


Every year or when you notice temps going up.


----------



## caesu

Hey all, quick question. My rigs Evo stock fan well croaked. I have 2 Cooler Master R4 (sickleflows) The ones with the blue LED's (though they come in red, green)...those ones.

Can I put those on as a Push/Pull set up? How do they perform? Also I dont have a Y Splitter on hand. Should I get one and have them run off the CPU fan controller since they are identicle fans?

thanks!!


----------



## caesu

Hey all, quick question. My rigs Evo stock fan well croaked. I have 2 Cooler Master R4 (sickleflows) The ones with the blue LED's (though they come in red, green)...those ones.

Can I put those on as a Push/Pull set up? How do they perform? Also I dont have a Y Splitter on hand. Should I get one and have them run off the CPU fan controller since they are identicle fans?

thanks!!


----------



## caesu

Ugh sorry, my connection stalled and looks like I got multiple posts. If anyone can also let me know how to delete those extras....


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caesu*
> 
> Hey all, quick question. My rigs Evo stock fan well croaked. I have 2 Cooler Master R4 (sickleflows) The ones with the blue LED's (though they come in red, green)...those ones.
> 
> Can I put those on as a Push/Pull set up? How do they perform? Also I dont have a Y Splitter on hand. Should I get one and have them run off the CPU fan controller since they are identicle fans?
> 
> thanks!!


The Sickleflows aren't the most recommended fans for the heatsinks.

They're also a 3-pin fans and will run at full blast if the CPU Fan header can't control 3-pin fans.

I known there's people using them on the 212 and I would say you should go fine trying them first.

It's recommended to use two similar fans running with similar speeds to ensure that the fans do not compete with each other and avoiding any excess air turbulence.
I would say it's important to follow this recommendation but I know there's people using different fans or doesn't using the Y cable.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemartinco*
> 
> say bye to this beauty! shes only 2 weeks old and i have to sell it because i was able to fit an h100 in the front of a scout 2 !
> 
> she will be missed


NNIIICCCEE!!!


----------



## dragonsamus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caesu*
> 
> Hey all, quick question. My rigs Evo stock fan well croaked. I have 2 Cooler Master R4 (sickleflows) The ones with the blue LED's (though they come in red, green)...those ones.
> 
> Can I put those on as a Push/Pull set up? How do they perform? Also I dont have a Y Splitter on hand. Should I get one and have them run off the CPU fan controller since they are identicle fans?
> 
> thanks!!


I've got two sickle flows on mine right now. Blade master died and I didn't replace it. Since you have them just use them.


----------



## caesu

Thanks all for the replies. I'll try the 2x sickleflows. I dont overclock, so I really shouldnt see a problem anyways....


----------



## fatherof3

got my new build built, consists of I

NZXT phantom in black
5 3570k
ASUS P8Z77 V PRO
HYPER 212 EVO on push only
GTX 670 FTW
NZXT hale90 550W

its clocked @ 4.6 with 1.2v (cpu-z shows 1.312 which i think is the norm 0.7 - 0.9 difference) temps peak @ 79 its not delidded nor is it lapped and i am using pk1 thermal paste
I have my hyper on push - pushing upwards because just above that i have my nzxt 200m fan on pull which is just 3" above my hyper
looking at it, i may have a good chip, - 4.6 on 1.2V ??

How can i ensure my hyper fan is on 100%? i am assuming it is already, but just want to check.
Thanks

Paul


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> How can i ensure my hyper fan is on 100%? i am assuming it is already, but just want to check.
> Thanks
> 
> Paul


The max speed for the euro Evo's stock fan is 1600 rpm.

Just install the utility Asus AI Suite available in the Asus site.

http://www.asus.com/Motherboard/P8Z77V_PRO/

The Asus sensor shows all fans speeds hooked in the fan headers.
Tthe CPU temp is the CPU TCase temp, it's not the core temp.

In the FAN Xpert you can change the fan speed profile: disable, standard, silent, turbo and user.

The disable setting will make the fan spinng at full blast.

The user profile will allow to change the fan curve according to the CPU TCase temp.
The min duty cicle for the CPU Fan is 20% fan power.

The Fan Xpert can also test the fan speed according to the fan power.


----------



## P00ters

Hi everyone, i just ordered the CM Hyper 212 + and installed it in like 15 minutes.

I have the i5-3470 OC'ed at 3.8ghz. and the temperature is around 35-40C when nothing is running.
when i have a game (Diablo 3) running, it rises up to 45-50C.

i feel like osmething is wrong with the temperature.

is this fine? or is something wrong?

what other information should i provide?


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> The max speed for the euro Evo's stock fan is 1600 rpm.
> 
> Just install the utility Asus AI Suite available in the Asus site.
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboard/P8Z77V_PRO/
> 
> The Asus sensor shows all fans speeds hooked in the fan headers.
> Tthe CPU temp is the CPU TCase temp, it's not the core temp.
> 
> In the FAN Xpert you can change the fan speed profile: disable, standard, silent, turbo and user.
> 
> The disable setting will make the fan spinng at full blast.
> 
> The user profile will allow to change the fan curve according to the CPU TCase temp.
> The min duty cicle for the CPU Fan is 20% fan power.
> 
> The Fan Xpert can also test the fan speed according to the fan power.


Hey dude thanks,

I have the ai suite but just cant see where to adjust the temps EDIT speeds, - ive found where i can see the speed of the fans now, but cant see where to tune it - not that its going to matter really, just as long as i know that at least my fan is running at full sped under stress.

Is the ai suite to be believed? its showing a 20c difference in my cpu temp against core temp (~im more likely to believe core temp as im running @4.7

Regards


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey dude thanks,
> 
> I have the ai suite but just cant see where to adjust the temps, - ive found where i can see the speed of the fans now, but cant see where to tune it - not that its going to matter really, just as long as i know that at least my fan is running at full sped under stress.
> 
> Is the ai suite to be believed? its showing a 20c difference in my cpu temp against core temp (~im more likely to believe core temp as im running @4.7
> 
> Regards


The CPU temp showed by the Asus Sensor is actually the TCase temp, it isn't the core temp.

My Asus Xpert is like this:



In the setting I can change the fan profile.


----------



## PedroC1999

Has anyone here got a FX6300, Has anyoned tried to OC it yet and how far did you go?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P00ters*
> 
> Hi everyone, i just ordered the CM Hyper 212 + and installed it in like 15 minutes.
> 
> I have the i5-3470 OC'ed at 3.8ghz. and the temperature is around 35-40C when nothing is running.
> when i have a game (Diablo 3) running, it rises up to 45-50C.
> 
> i feel like osmething is wrong with the temperature.
> 
> is this fine? or is something wrong?
> 
> *what other information should i provide*?


What is your ambient temperature? (the air temp in your room)


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> The CPU temp showed by the Asus Sensor is actually the TCase temp, it isn't the core temp.
> 
> My Asus Xpert is like this:
> 
> 
> 
> In the setting I can change the fan profile.


Ahhhh i think i may have chose not to install that, as i only have "tool monitor settings" along the bottom


----------



## P00ters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> What is your ambient temperature? (the air temp in your room)


normal room temperature.
68 F (20c)


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P00ters*
> 
> normal room temperature.
> 68 F (20c)


Mine idles around 35c and hits around 50c while gaming with the same ambient temps @ 1.28v. So your temps seem good to me. How many volts are you pushing with your overclock?


----------



## P00ters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Mine idles around 35c and hits around 50c while gaming with the same ambient temps @ 1.28v. So your temps seem good to me. How many volts are you pushing with your overclock?


oh so do u have i5-3470 too? whats your overclock? the same as mine?

to be specific my oc setting.
- CPU ration is at x 36.0
-Base Clock is at 107.0 Mhz
-CPU Core Voltage is at Auto (i messed around with it before and destroyed computer , but i fixed it using cmos clear)

yea thats my settings.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P00ters*
> 
> oh so do u have i5-3470 too? whats your overclock? the same as mine?
> 
> to be specific my oc setting.
> - CPU ration is at x 36.0
> -Base Clock is at 107.0 Mhz
> -CPU Core Voltage is at Auto (i messed around with it before and destroyed computer , but i fixed it using cmos clear)
> 
> yea thats my settings.


No, I have a 3820. I was just stating that as a reference.


----------



## P00ters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> No, I have a 3820. I was just stating that as a reference.


isnt it different temperature for every CPU?
some people are running i5-2500k at 4-5ghz and their temp is the same as my idle temp..i think(?)


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P00ters*
> 
> isnt it different temperature for every CPU?
> some people are running i5-2500k at 4-5ghz and their temp is the same as my idle temp..i think(?)


They might have the same idle as you, but there is no way they are only hitting 35-40 under load, unless they are using some form of extreme cooling.
I didn't mean to infer that my temps are the same as yours, but that your chip is running about normal temps for this cooler. Yes mine is a lot bigger die and will run a bit hotter than yours.


----------



## P00ters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> They might have the same idle as you, but there is no way they are only hitting 35-40 under load, unless they are using some form of extreme cooling.
> I didn't mean to infer that my temps are the same as yours, but that your chip is running about normal temps for this cooler. Yes mine is a lot bigger die and will run a bit hotter than yours.


ahh okay i understand.
i just ordered my i5-3570k and im gonna overclock that to 4.5ghz, so if i use this cooler, my idle temp would be the about the same as many other i5-3570k users? but on load time it would be different depending on the program running?


----------



## caesu

Hey all, just a follow up to adding the 2x sickleflows. I find them noisier then before, maybe its because of 2xfans. Anyways, Im not entirey feeling them in the set up. Has anyone tried the Corsair SP120 High Performace Ed. (2350rpm) as a single push fan? I can get one on the cheap as its on sale right now and dont mind throwing that in the mix.

Would it actually perform better than stock? I know its not pwm though and has only a 3pin end...so I figure I'll be running it at full 100% of the time unless anyone states otherwise.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey dude thanks,
> 
> I have the ai suite but just cant see where to adjust the temps, - ive found where i can see the speed of the fans now, but cant see where to tune it - not that its going to matter really, just as long as i know that at least my fan is running at full sped under stress.
> 
> Is the ai suite to be believed? its showing a 20c difference in my cpu temp against core temp (~im more likely to believe core temp as im running @4.7
> 
> Regards
> 
> 
> 
> The CPU temp showed by the Asus Sensor is actually the TCase temp, it isn't the core temp.
> 
> My Asus Xpert is like this:
> 
> 
> 
> In the setting I can change the fan profile.
Click to expand...

Will that ASUS Fan Xpert work on motherboards that aren't made by asus?


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Will that ASUS Fan Xpert work on motherboards that aren't made by asus?


I would say not work.

The Asus AI Suite II will detect the board for compatibility first.
This suite also can't be installed with older Asus boards without compatibility with the Suite II.


----------



## madweazl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P00ters*
> 
> ahh okay i understand.
> i just ordered my i5-3570k and im gonna overclock that to 4.5ghz, so if i use this cooler, my idle temp would be the about the same as many other i5-3570k users? but on load time it would be different depending on the program running?


I have a 3570k at 4.5 with 1.245v. Idle temps are 23c and full load temps hit 83c (using the thermal compound provided with the cooler). Average temps while gaming are 60-65c.


----------



## P00ters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> I have a 3570k at 4.5 with 1.245v. Idle temps are 23c and full load temps hit 83c (using the thermal compound provided with the cooler). Average temps while gaming are 60-65c.


so im gonna assume that my idle temperature would be the same as urs when i overclock mine, but not the load time because we all use programs differently


----------



## thelude

hey peeps,

I was messing around with oc'ing my i7-3770k to around 4.6 and I'm getting really high temps of mid 90's with the Evo 212+(temp. until my H220 arrives). I notice that my cooling tower still can be wiggled (very lightly). Do I need to tighten it more? or do I have to put less thermal paste (using very little though). I think I've tighten it pretty good cause I can start to see my mobo bow a little.

Thanks.

System specs:
Asus Maximus V Formula
I7-3770k
Gigabyte 7950 OC'd
16gb G. Skills Trident 2400mhz
Samsung Pro 256gb SSD
Corsair ax860i PSU
Corsair 800d


----------



## thelude

I'm using stock fan on the evo 212+ btw. (maybe thats the problem)


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thelude*
> 
> hey peeps,
> 
> I was messing around with oc'ing my i7-3770k to around 4.6 and I'm getting really high temps of mid 90's with the Evo 212+(temp. until my H220 arrives). I notice that my cooling tower still can be wiggled (very lightly). Do I need to tighten it more? or do I have to put less thermal paste (using very little though). I think I've tighten it pretty good cause I can start to see my mobo bow a little.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> System specs:
> Asus Maximus V Formula
> I7-3770k
> Gigabyte 7950 OC'd
> 16gb G. Skills Trident 2400mhz
> Samsung Pro 256gb SSD
> Corsair ax860i PSU
> Corsair 800d


you could try a reseat if you like. but IMO you have hit the mark where your CPU is running hot like IB does. they do tend to wiggle slightly so i doubt that is the problem. how are your temps at 4.4 - 4.5GHz?


----------



## madweazl

4.6 is a pretty good clock so I'm assuming you're running somewhere around 1.25v+. If your ambient temps are fairly high and case flow fairly low, I could see it running that hot. When was the last time the heatsink was cleaned (when I switched over to the Intel, I couldnt believe how dirty mine was!)?


----------



## thelude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> you could try a reseat if you like. but IMO you have hit the mark where your CPU is running hot like IB does. they do tend to wiggle slightly so i doubt that is the problem. how are your temps at 4.4 - 4.5GHz?


I will try it after I put my rig back together (installing LED's)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madweazl*
> 
> 4.6 is a pretty good clock so I'm assuming you're running somewhere around 1.25v+. If your ambient temps are fairly high and case flow fairly low, I could see it running that hot. When was the last time the heatsink was cleaned (when I switched over to the Intel, I couldnt believe how dirty mine was!)?


I was using asus turbo evo overclock utility. I didn't check if the utility raised the voltage or not. Brand new build so everything is pretty clean. Ambient temps. are very good. They hover around 30-35 and on game load its around 60-65. (at default clocks)


----------



## TheGrayDon10

I just got the hyper 212+ to replace my freezer pro 7 rev. 2 and it seems to have dropped my cpu temps about 5 or 6c idle and maybe 10c full load.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGrayDon10*
> 
> I just got the hyper 212+ to replace my freezer pro 7 rev. 2 and it seems to have dropped my cpu temps about 5 or 6c idle and maybe 10c full load.










Sweet.


----------



## Kahlanr

Hello guys,
I'm planing to buy the Hyper 212 evo and I'd like to ask for help with the setup of case air flow and evo's push/pull. Here is is the hardware specs:
Case: CM 371
ASUS M5A97
AMD FX8120 (125W)
2X4GB HyperX 1333Mhz
Nvidia Palit GTX 650 2GB

I'm using the following fans:
2x Gentle Typhoon (D1225C12B4AP-14) - 1450 rpm ( 85 m³/h)
1x Scythe ULTRA KAZE (DFS123812L-1000) - 1000 rpm (44,44 CFM)
Standard cpu fan from AMD
Temperature in room: 10C

I want to setup push/pull config for the evo and continue to use my Scythe fans which are almost new (used 7 months with moderate load). Can I use the two GT for the push/pull? or they are not enough powerfull. If not powerful enough,will 2x CM SickleFlow do the job? I live in Bulgaria so I guess I'll be buying the evo's EU version.

Which would be better: 212 evo + pair of CM SickleFlow or 412 slim?

Why buy 212 evo?
I'm currently playing Guild Wars 2 and after 10mins temperature goes to 54-56C (Asus AI suite) under 20% load (windows task manager) which I think is ... bad bad. I will probably OC a little, say from 3.1 to 3.4, but my main goal is to get the lowest temp possible and quietest ambiance without making too many new purchases.

Thank you in advance


----------



## slurk2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Has anyone here got a FX6300, Has anyoned tried to OC it yet and how far did you go?


this is the oc on my fx 6100

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/585/prime95pass185x250.jpg/


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

I see many of you people here are using Cooler Master Sickleflow fans on your 212s. I have one and I want to break it, they are so darn loud it's like a jet engine, literally. Some of you people even have it in push pull, how do you stand the noise? Anyone have any fan recommendations for me since my 212 fan died and I need a replacement.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> I see many of you people here are using Cooler Master Sickleflow fans on your 212s. I have one and I want to break it, they are so darn loud it's like a jet engine, literally. Some of you people even have it in push pull, how do you stand the noise? Anyone have any fan recommendations for me since my 212 fan died and I need a replacement.


Well the noise level is subjective and there's people that don't border with the noise.

The Sickeflow is a 3-pin fan and it's just loud running at max 2000 rpm.

Some Gigabyte's or ASRock's boards can control 3-pin fans hooked in the CPU FAN.
3-pin fans should run at full blast if the CPU Fan header can't control them.

Both the 212+ stock fan Blademaster and 212 stock fan XtraFlo non led are 4-pin PWM fans.
They're loud at higher speeds but the noise should be not a problem while you have them spinning at lower speeds.

I would say both fans are pretty quiet at 1000 rpm - 1200 rpm.
I also would say the Blademaster seems quieter than the XtraFlo.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Thanks, I think I'll just buy another blade master.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> Thanks, I think I'll just buy another blade master.


You don't really need to break the Sickleflow as you said before.









You could also try the Sickleflow as case fan if the Sys Fan/Cha Fan headers can control 3-pin fans.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> I see many of you people here are using Cooler Master Sickleflow fans on your 212s. I have one and I want to break it, they are so darn loud it's like a jet engine, literally. Some of you people even have it in push pull, *how do you stand the noise?* Anyone have any fan recommendations for me since my 212 fan died and I need a replacement.


Buy a fan controller. You'll never have to worry about noisy fans ever again.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

I do have a fan controller, the NZXT Sentry II. Unfortunately I did not do much research before buying it and that there are much better options out there. I got it because it looked good and reviews were good on it. Man was I wrong, When I plugged the sickleflow into it, all it did was whine whether it was at 100 or 40%(lowest). So I ended up using a 7v adapter, still too loud, then 5v which is okay but airflow isn't good anymore. I might buy a Corsair AF140, NZXT FZ 140, or the new Noctua A14s.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> I do have a fan controller, the NZXT Sentry II. Unfortunately I did not do much research before buying it and that there are much better options out there. I got it because it looked good and reviews were good on it. Man was I wrong, When I plugged the sickleflow into it, all it did was whine whether it was at 100 or 40%(lowest). So I ended up using a 7v adapter, still too loud, then 5v which is okay but airflow isn't good anymore. I might buy a Corsair AF140, NZXT FZ 140, or the new Noctua A14s.


I'm a NZXT FZ-140mm owner.

It's hooked in the CHA FAN header and it's very quiet but at full blast around 1150 rpm it has a bit loud motor noise.
In my opinion the quoted air flow seems exaggerated.


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> I'm a NZXT FZ-140mm owner.
> 
> It's hooked in the CHA FAN header and it's very quiet but at full blast around 1150 rpm it has a bit loud motor noise.
> In my opinion the quoted air flow seems exaggerated.


So what setting do you run it at and how is the airflow and noise?


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> So what setting do you run it at and how is the airflow and noise?


My board is an Asus and it's compatible with the Fan Xpert+.

I can change the CPU Fan and the Chassis Fan profiles: Disable, Standard, Silent, Turbo and Manual.

Look at the fan curve for the Chassis Fan header.
The board controls the fan speed according to the CPU TCase temp.



I would say that the FZ-140mm doesn't have a great air flow as advertised and I expected more for him.
For a quoted 1000 rpm fan it should be quieter.

Look this review:

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/140mm-fan-roundup-2_12.html#sect0

I also heard that the Havik 120 fans aren't quiet.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/NZXT-HAVIK-120-CPU-Cooler-Review/1453


----------



## noobdown

I seen a lot of people raving about these. I purchased one, and it preformed a lot worse then my xigy hdt s1283. Evo = 85c, before pc crashed , in push pull. S1283 max was 59c with push pull. @ 1.45v.


----------



## DrBrogbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> I seen a lot of people raving about these. I purchased one, and it preformed a lot worse then my xigy hdt s1283. Evo = 85c, before pc crashed , in push pull. S1283 max was 59c with push pull. @ 1.45v.


I don't see how they could perform that much differently at all, unless the evo got a bad seat or something. They're essentially the same thing. The evo actually has more heat pipes and looks like a better mounting surface on the bottom (can't tell for sure).


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrBrogbo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> I seen a lot of people raving about these. I purchased one, and it preformed a lot worse then my xigy hdt s1283. Evo = 85c, before pc crashed , in push pull. S1283 max was 59c with push pull. @ 1.45v.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see how they could perform that much differently at all, unless the evo got a bad seat or something. They're essentially the same thing. The evo actually has more heat pipes and looks like a better mounting surface on the bottom (can't tell for sure).
Click to expand...

the evo has 4 x 6mm pipes, and the xiggy has 3 *8mm pipes. I would to think they would give similar proformance at least but nope. I reseat and clean and reapply paste 5 times Before I finally went back to my xiggy.


----------



## fishymamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> the evo has 4 x 6mm pipes, and the xiggy has 3 *8mm pipes. I would to think they would give similar proformance at least but nope. I reseat and clean and reapply paste 5 times Before I finally went back to my xiggy.


The low temps are probably due to the larger fins on the Xigmatek, but that is a huge difference in temperatures.


----------



## edsai

Hey folks,

I just found diagrams about the acoustic peformance using the BladeMaster and the XtraFlo.

According to the following diagrams we can say that the XtraFlo is a bit louder than the BladeMaster, isn't it?

Hyper 212+ with the stock fan BladeMaster (600 rpm - 2000 rpm).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Article: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/coolermaster-hyper-cogage_8.html#sect0

Hyper 612 PWM with the stock fan XtraFlo (600 rpm - 2000 rpm).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Article: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/coolermaster-hyper-612-pwm_6.html#sect0


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

i luv my cooler master HEAT SINK XD!! cheap and gets the job done


----------



## lonelycowfarmer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> i luv my cooler master HEAT SINK XD!! cheap and gets the job done


Nice, more pics please.


----------



## shadow water

redid my cables but i thought it put this here to show how nice a blacked out evo looks


----------



## xxpenguinxx

I've had my 212 Plus for over a year now, just have not took a picture of it until today. 120MM gutted fan for a shroud, and an old dell 34mm server fan. I have scotch tape around the edge of the fan/shroud to prevent air from escaping.


----------



## eyau100

Does anyone know where I can buy more fan clips?


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eyau100*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can buy more fan clips?


You can find the 212 Plus/Evo acessories in the CM Store, wich isn't cheap.

http://www.cmstore-usa.com/hyper-212-plus-evo-accessories-kit/

You can also make zip ties screws.

Just look here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/753254/ziptie-screw


----------



## tw1st

Just bought the 212 evo after going from the hyper tx3 and also a corsair h60.

Love this cooler, it's huge but works very well.

Setup a push/pull fan setup. The extra fan I added is a random corsair 120mm fan, will this impact my temps or should I opt for a better fan?


----------



## eyau100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> You can find the 212 Plus/Evo acessories in the CM Store, wich isn't cheap.
> 
> http://www.cmstore-usa.com/hyper-212-plus-evo-accessories-kit/
> 
> You can also make zip ties screws.
> 
> Just look here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/753254/ziptie-screw


.GASP the zip tie screws are genius I'm definitely going to try that thanks


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw1st*
> 
> Just bought the 212 evo after going from the hyper tx3 and also a corsair h60.
> 
> Love this cooler, it's huge but works very well.
> 
> Setup a push/pull fan setup. The extra fan I added is a random corsair 120mm fan, will this impact my temps or should I opt for a better fan?


The 212 is actually small. Push pull will only drop your temperatures by 2 at most.


----------



## Jared2608

So guys, will this cooler be a good choice for an A10-5800K? I want to OC it a bit, but not outrageously so.


----------



## GarTheConquer

I just received mine for my A10-5800 rig. The stock heatsink on that thing sounds terrible!


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lonelycowfarmer*
> 
> Nice, more pics please.


HEY here is a little cover photo for Facebook if ur interested


----------



## StormX2

hey guys

Im thinking about using the Hyper 212 Evo for my wifes possible PC

gonna be most likely i7 3770k or i5 3570k

ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Z77 ATX Intel

and these Blue 2 x 8 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 1600 F3-1600C9D-16GXM

I don't think i will have any problem with the cooler and the ram height but I wanted to ask in here if anyone knew?


----------



## shadow water

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> hey guys
> 
> Im thinking about using the Hyper 212 Evo for my wifes possible PC
> 
> gonna be most likely i7 3770k or i5 3570k
> 
> ASUS P8Z77-V LK LGA 1155 Z77 ATX Intel
> 
> and these Blue 2 x 8 GB G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 1600 F3-1600C9D-16GXM
> 
> I don't think i will have any problem with the cooler and the ram height but I wanted to ask in here if anyone knew?


cooling will be just fine even with mild overclocking. but as for ram height it can be a problem with ram heat sinks like corsair vengence or higher ram like that


----------



## StormX2

see I was thinking since im doing only 2 x 8 GB they would be on the outer slots, not closer tot he processor, and I was hoping that ram height wouldn't be an issue at all due to this.

also I will never fill all 4 slots anyway

im also not sure hpow tall the ripjaws are, they are deceptive


----------



## tw1st

Quote:


> see I was thinking since im doing only 2 x 8 GB they would be on the outer slots, not closer tot he processor, and I was hoping that ram height wouldn't be an issue at all due to this.
> 
> also I will never fill all 4 slots anyway
> 
> im also not sure hpow tall the ripjaws are, they are deceptive


This was my worry as well when I was putting together my rig. It will fit, but it will be tight.... very tight. My first ram slot just barely touches it fan.

I have an asus sabertooth z77, with 4x4GB Corsair Vengeance ram with the very high heatsinks, and it fits. Check my pics below.

Also if your installing it in case, make sure you put the ram in after you put the heatsink+fans in so it will be easier for you to get done. If you are only using two slots, i think you need 2 and 4 anyway, so you should have plenty of clearance.

Hope this helps.





let us know how it turns out.


----------



## StormX2

nice pic! yah I think I will be more than fine.

also looks liek the deal I have wont work with the 3770k sucks but 3570k will be more than enough

everyone still thinks this Hyper 212 Evo will be more than enough?

Does it come with anything specific btw? like a nice long screw driver lol, I lost the one that came with my Noctua =(


----------



## tw1st

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> nice pic! yah I think I will be more than fine.
> 
> also looks liek the deal I have wont work with the 3770k sucks but 3570k will be more than enough
> 
> everyone still thinks this Hyper 212 Evo will be more than enough?
> 
> Does it come with anything specific btw? like a nice long screw driver lol, I lost the one that came with my Noctua =(


Hmm, looks like your from Jersey eh? Ya me too hehe, North Jersey here. You mentioned a deal you have won't work with a 3770k? Since you are in Jersey though, you may be in luck! There is a microcenter here in Paterson and I actually just picked up a 3770K for a cool $229.99 from them. That's $100 less then neweggs price, and also the price of a 3570K in most places.

If you are near this area, definitely check them out. I built my entire rig through parts I bought from these guys.

I think the 212 evo will be more than enough, it is an amazing air cooler. OC'd @ 4.3Ghz with 1.185v, I idle between 25-30, gaming around 40-45, load temps between 55-60.

No, it does not come with any screw driver


----------



## StormX2

yah im about about 40 minutes off from that microcenter, considered central jersey though lol right between 287 22 and 78 lol

the thing is the Motherboard if I buy with a i5 3570k, the motherboard drops from like 150 to $95









Money is tight as it is and am only thinking of this build out of necessity really.

which is why i need to take advantage of that motherboard deal, 50 bucks less is big, id be able to take that saving and get an SSD later on

and I dont think Id do well to buy the i5 and i7 to get the deal and sell the i5 here etc, probably end up losing money covering shipping lol


----------



## KyleMart06

I use the 212Evo on a 2500K running 4.3Ghz and a buddy at work has the 3770K and he has a good overclock on it with nice temps. This thing is a beast for the cost.

Understand the deal aspect though and it is nice to find some good ones to help you out.


----------



## Gavush

I won a Xigmatek Dark Knight SD1283 Night Hawk Edition via a drawing from the manufacturer... I don't really have any trouble with temperatures but it'll be interesting to see a comparison.


----------



## gammite

is there anyone here running there 212 fanless. I am contemplating that for one of my htpc builds.


----------



## Jayek

Whats the wattage of the CPU that you want to use?


----------



## gammite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayek*
> 
> Whats the wattage of the CPU that you want to use?


phenom x2 555 =80 watt

http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Phenom%20II%20X2%20555%20-%20HDZ555WFK2DGM%20(HDZ555WFGMBOX).html


----------



## StormX2

Fanless is a scary thing lol I wouldn't do, air flow will be all screwed up and hot CPU air will go through the GPU etc.


----------



## gammite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> Fanless is a scary thing lol I wouldn't do, air flow will be all screwed up and hot CPU air will go through the GPU etc.


no gpu. integrated graphics amd 4200 on the motherboard.

if I did use a gpu it would be a fanless hd5450.

the goal is to aim for silence.


----------



## gammite

on my sig rig the only fans running the in the system are one 212 fan, the gpu fans and the p/s fan which rarely kicks on. temp are normal on everything. I turned all of the case fans off.


----------



## StormX2

you can do silent and still have fans, they dont have to be loud

Noctua Fans are good and damn quiet.


----------



## gammite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> you can do silent and still have fans, they dont have to be loud
> 
> Noctua Fans are good and damn quiet.


true. but if I don't have to incur costs why not????

I have seen some oem builds with no fans and the cooling is no where near as good as a 212.

after all, this build is just an htpc. it won't be crunching any numbers.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I won a Xigmatek Dark Knight SD1283 Night Hawk Edition via a drawing from the manufacturer... I don't really have any trouble with temperatures but it'll be interesting to see a comparison.


Hey! I won one too! I wonder when we will get them?


----------



## StormX2

wlel ok I cant fault you there for not wanting to spend more cash, it is what it is, but ive no experience with Full Desktop Processors runnign in fanless solutions for HTPC.

but I get the feeling that your comparing Apples and Oranges. I mean the Lenovo Ultra Small PC'sell to some of our clients are fanless, but these are downclocked i5's with lower voltage.


----------



## KyleMart06

I am with Storm, I feel like the design of the 212 Evo is not very well meant for a fanless solution. I am thinking to get the right venting and to not cook things you should at least have a fan on this heatsink. Unless someone has proof of otherwise??


----------



## alextheguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608*
> 
> So guys, will this cooler be a good choice for an A10-5800K? I want to OC it a bit, but not outrageously so.


A mild overclock should be fine. Mine runs good @ 4.5GHZ of 3570k, I believe I can push it further, since Vcore is still not that high and temps are acceptable.


----------



## Jared2608

Thanks. I don't want to OC too high, so a cheaper cooler would be ideal.


----------



## NitrousX

Hey guys,

I've decided to go with the 212 Evo for my new build and was wondering what kind of fans you all would recommend for push/pull? It's going to be cooling an i7 3770K overclocked to a modest 4.5GHz, so in other words nothing crazy. I would prefer to buy fans from Newegg as I will be ordering a bulk of my parts from there (saves on shipping).

Thanks!


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've decided to go with the 212 Evo for my new build and was wondering what kind of fans you all would recommend for push/pull? It's going to be cooling an i7 3770K overclocked to a modest 4.5GHz, so in other words nothing crazy. I would prefer to buy fans from Newegg as I will be ordering a bulk of my parts from there (saves on shipping).
> 
> Thanks!


Single stock fan. Your question was answered multiple times in the thread already.


----------



## tw1st

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've decided to go with the 212 Evo for my new build and was wondering what kind of fans you all would recommend for push/pull? It's going to be cooling an i7 3770K overclocked to a modest 4.5GHz, so in other words nothing crazy. I would prefer to buy fans from Newegg as I will be ordering a bulk of my parts from there (saves on shipping).
> 
> Thanks!


Well if you want another fan for pull you can get this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069

I set mine up with it last week, and while it's not a huge difference now I idle between 27 - 31, where as before my idle temps were around 31-35


----------



## StormX2

thats a decent dif

ok so latest option for my build puts me with an i7 2600k, Hyper 212 Evo still good enough for it?

I like to overclock but I prefer low to stock Voltage, so i dont see myself going over 4.5ghz on this processor honestly.


----------



## DrBrogbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> thats a decent dif
> 
> ok so latest option for my build puts me with an i7 2600k, Hyper 212 Evo still good enough for it?
> 
> I like to overclock but I prefer low to stock Voltage, so i dont see myself going over 4.5ghz on this processor honestly.


Should be fine. I have my QX9650 at 4.0GHZ (stock is 3) with the 212, and it never goes above 55. As my processor is an absolute wattage hog, you shouldn't have a problem at all.


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NitrousX*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've decided to go with the 212 Evo for my new build and was wondering what kind of fans you all would recommend for push/pull? It's going to be cooling an i7 3770K overclocked to a modest 4.5GHz, so in other words nothing crazy. I would prefer to buy fans from Newegg as I will be ordering a bulk of my parts from there (saves on shipping).
> 
> Thanks!


The evo comes with an Xtraflo. Putting two different fans for push/pull won't be a very good idea, so if you want another fan this is the one you should get (don't know where to find it though) http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6754


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strych9*
> 
> The evo comes with an Xtraflo. Putting two different fans for push/pull won't be a very good idea, so if you want another fan this is the one you should get (don't know where to find it though) http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6754


I would say that the XtraFlo fan isn't the best choice in the US.
It could be found in the CM Store wich is costly, specially for a sleeve bearing fan.

The XtraFlo isn't a budget fan in the US.
The Blade Master is definitively one of the best $10 fans for any budget heatsink like the 212.


----------



## fatherof3

THIS is for the attention of asus P8 owners (and hyper 212)

http://www.overclock.net/t/1362311/p8z77-v-pro-priority-boot-problem

Its a fir read, but the upshot is, - I keep getting the F1 screen - which stops me booting into windows on restart/startup.

Does anyone else have these issues?

My findings are tat its the default 600RPM threshold that's causing it.

YOU decide









Thanks


----------



## edsai

My board is an Asus P8Z77V-LX and comes with only 1 CPU Fan header.
It doesn't have the CPU_OPT_FAN header.

The default CPU Fan threashold is only 200 rpm.
The all CHA_FAN headers and the PWR_FAN headers threasholds are 600 rpm.


----------



## fatherof3

Hey dude thanks,

I don't use any of the asus suite - I could never get the fan option to work, - I would only ever get the 3 button options(I cant remember what they were). mine is taken from the bios.

I get that you don't have the same board, - but why would your cpu fan threshold be only 200RPM? yet the rest of yours is 600RPM? - all of mine are set @ 600RPm but all can be lowered down to 200 (or ignored)

Is the ai suite any use then? - I know NOT to use it for o/c'n

Thanks dude.


----------



## edsai

1) I'm just curious why are you using the CPU OPT FAN and not the CPU FAN?

I know that both headers work the same way but it's make more sense to use first the CPU FAN then use the optional CPU header if it is needed.

2) Even in the bios the default "CPU Fan Speed Low Limit" is 200 rpm and the "Chassis Fan Speed Low Limit" is 600 rpm.

I'm not really needing the AI Suite but I would say it's usefull if you want to monitor de board temps and the fan speeds.
The HWMonitor doesn't show these informations.

The Fan Expert+ can also test the fan speed.



I've never tried to update the bios version using the Bios interface.
I always download the latest bios then I update the new bios version using the AI Suite.

It's pretty annoying to restart the system then check anything in the Bios interface.


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> 1) I'm just curious why are you using the CPU OPT FAN and not the CPU FAN?
> 
> I know that both headers work the same way but it's make more sense to use first the CPU FAN then use the optional CPU header if it is needed.
> 
> 2) Even in the bios the default "CPU Fan Speed Low Limit" is 200 rpm and the "Chassis Fan Speed Low Limit" is 600 rpm.
> 
> I'm not really needing the AI Suite but I would say it's usefull if you want to monitor de board temps and the fan speeds.
> The HWMonitor doesn't show these informations.
> 
> The Fan Expert+ can also test the fan speed.
> 
> 
> 
> I've never tried to update the bios version using the Bios interface.
> I always download the latest bios then I update the new bios version using the AI Suite.
> 
> It's pretty annoying to restart the system then check anything in the Bios interface.


I'm not using the cpu opt fan.

Wont my fans speed increase when under stress without the fan xpert?


----------



## edsai

According to the 3rd picture the CPU FAN is N/A and the CPU OPT FAN is spinning at 593 RPM.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1362291/asus-p8z77-v-pro-boot-priority-problem-bios-1805

This is true the boards controls the fan speed without the Fan Xpert.
The Fan Xpert is only a interface for the board features.


----------



## fatherof3

ahhhh yh, that was way back at the start, shortly after that it was discovered, http://www.overclock.net/t/1362311/p8z77-v-pro-priority-boot-problem/30 - post #39 around 3 weeks ago.

Sorry for the confusion with that one


----------



## edsai

Haha, no problem.

I didn't read the all pages.


----------



## fatherof3

Lol i think you read the wrong post? I had posted in 2 forums as i didnt know where i would get more hits.

I genuinely think this is the root of the boot issue.
I have read about the low rpms of these fans, and knowing i most probably wont have to rma my boars is a little comforting


----------



## edsai

In my opinion it's not the fan fault.
The default thresholds are debatable.

The Evo stock fan has min 600 rpm +/- 10% and many PWM fans have min 600 rpm.
I don't know the reason that Asus made boards with the default CPU FAN threshold 600 rpm and others boards like mine with 200 rpm.

The default CHA FAN threshold for my board is 600 rpm.
I would say this default 600 rpm threshold is also debatable.
There's 200 mm fans with low rpm like the CM Megaflow 700 rpm.

Look these pictures about a rig with the CM HAF 912 Plus and 2 low rpm fans.





The CHA FAN 2 and the OPT FAN 2 are reporting warnings about these fans running below 600 rpm.


----------



## fatherof3

I booted this morning to find my fan running @480, is this my fan on the way out? I don't want to take it apart to give it some "lube" as its still under warranty, - who do I contact about a replacement? my supplier or coolermaster? obviously I cant send it back first.

2 graphics cards in that rig yet just an intel cooler? lolz

Whats PWM?


----------



## GarTheConquer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> I booted this morning to find my fan running @480, is this my fan on the way out? I don't want to take it apart to give it some "lube" as its still under warranty, - who do I contact about a replacement? my supplier or coolermaster? obviously I cant send it back first.
> 
> 2 graphics cards in that rig yet just an intel cooler? lolz
> 
> Whats PWM?


See what the other OC people say about the 480rpm first but if it is malfunctioning I'd contact CoolerMaster with pictures and proof of purchase info and they should hook you up.

PWM= Pulse-width modulation

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1411845


----------



## fatherof3

Hey dude, thanks.

If it happens tomorrow morning, I will get a quick screenie and post it to CM.

Thanks for the link.

Just out of curiosity, - if I ook up another fan, does it go to cpu opt fan? and do they both run at the same speed when under stress?

ATM I have my fan on the bottom of my heatsink on push (yes I have it horizontal) because I have a 200mm fan on pull just 3" above the heatsink.

Is this ok? or do you think I should get an extra fan?

Regards

Paul


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Hey dude, thanks.
> 
> If it happens tomorrow morning, I will get a quick screenie and post it to CM.
> 
> Thanks for the link.


I'm using the 212 with 2 XtraFlo 600 rpm - 2000 rpm (US version).

I mind that sometimes I've see they spinning below 500 rpm when the processor was idling with low core temps.

The fan speed will ramp if it needed.
I don't think that it's an fan issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, - if I ook up another fan, does it go to cpu opt fan? and do they both run at the same speed when under stress?


Yes, both the cpu and cpu opt headers should run at the same fan power.
The fan speed changes according to the fan power.

The cpu opt fan is designed for a second heatsink fan but you can also used it to hook a case fan.

There's water coolers without built in fan control like de the H60 and the Antec 620.
The cpu and the cpu opt headers can be used to hook the pump power cable and its fan.

For Asus boards the cpu fan and the opt fan don't control 3-pin fans so the pump that uses a 3-pin power cable should run fine at full blast.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatherof1*
> 
> ATM I have my fan on the bottom of my heatsink on push (yes I have it horizontal) because I have a 200mm fan on pull just 3" above the heatsink.
> 
> Is this ok? or do you think I should get an extra fan?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Paul


Did you mean add a second fan for the 212?

Yes, this is ok if you want add a second fan for push pull.
In this case is recommended to two use same fans for the 212.


----------



## fatherof3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> I'm using the 212 with 2 XtraFlo 600 rpm - 2000 rpm (US version).
> 
> I mind that sometimes I've see they spinning below 500 rpm when the processor was idling with low core temps.
> 
> The fan speed will ramp if it needed.
> I don't think that it's an fan issue.
> Yes, both the cpu and cpu opt headers should run at the same fan power.
> The fan speed changes according to the fan power.
> 
> The cpu opt fan is designed for a second heatsink fan but you can also used it to hook a case fan.
> 
> There's water coolers without built in fan control like de the H60 and the Antec 620.
> The cpu and the cpu opt headers can be used to hook the pump power cable and its fan.
> 
> For Asus boards the cpu fan and the opt fan don't control 3-pin fans so the pump that uses a 3-pin power cable should run fine at full blast.
> Did you mean add a second fan for the 212?
> 
> Yes, this is ok if you want add a second fan for push pull.
> In this case is recommended to two use same fans for the 212.


Hey dude, sorry its took so long to get back to you.

In the mornings on first boot, my fan is spinning @ 460-480, so i had to configure my bios and lower the threshold down to 400RPM, so it booted to windows instead of the F1 error screen.

Now coolermaster are sending me a replacement fan under warranty.
Now at the moment, my fan is spinning @560, if my new fan spins @600 can I still use my existing fan? if so how would I configure it?

My guess is to use asus fan ai suite, and configure it to spin @ 600 from the off and use push pull, would it be wise, (now that I don't need to worry about my warranty,) strip the fan down and grease it up? sould I do this??

Thing is, when I tried installing the ai suite before the "fan" options were never there, can anyone advise on this?

Thanks

Paul


----------



## edsai

No worries.









In my opinion the lower fan speed doesn't mean that the fan has an issue.
I'm pretty sure that there's other fans that can spin below their speeds specifications.
Try to run the Prime95 or the IBT the fan should increase the speed.

My 212 fans sometimes spin about 560 rpm when the processor is idling, specially when I was using two top fans helping cooling around the CPU.

I would only set the CPU Fan threshold to 200 rpm.


----------



## fatherof3

Hey dude,

Well they are sending me a new fan anyway,
"Dear Paul,

It can be that the fan is faulty. We can sent you a new fan to check if this will solved the problem. Can you give us your address?

Kind regards,

Michiel Bos "

Well I guess I will have push/pull then!









afaik, the fan spins up under stress.

I am goin to have another shot at installing ai suite just to check.

Be right back

Right ok, I somehow managed to get it going,
First I was on a screen, that allowed me to configure the fan speed at a given temp, then I ot to a screen that allowed me to select "silent/standard and turbo", how do I get back to the original screen?

Disregard - I found it.

Now, - I have a pantom enthusiast case with fan controllers built in to the case - although I don't see the need for adjustin them, can I configure the mobo to select the case fans speeds? I am assuming not because none of te fans are connected to te mobo itself.

As I previously said, - I have my hyper mounted orizontally, with "push" on the underside "pushing up" 3" above the cooler I have a 200mm case fan on pull, - a secondary fan would fit in(would be a squeeze - although I can take the 200mm out so I can mount second fan then remount the 200mm fan.

Ok, I have set my fan curve @ 40%@40deg

Core temp shows my temp @ 50 even though fan expert 2 shows it @ 37. now how am I supposed to configure it to come on 40% @ 40deg if my real temp is @50 but asus showing just 37?

Does that make sense?

And it wont allow me to save the profile - got it saved now - I didn't see that you had to name the profile (rolls eyes)


----------



## edsai

1) Yeah, agreed that it is a big deal.

Just make sure to use same fans for push pull.
The US XtraFlo has 600 rpm - 2000 rpm and the EU version has 600 rpm - 1600 rpm.

The 212+ comes with the CM Blademaster 600 rpm - 2000 rpm.

The XtraFlo fans and the Blademaster have also different specifications.

2) It's possible that the 212 dual fans can work with lower speeds then the 212 single fan.

Two fans at lower speeds can have about the same air flow then one fan running at higher speeds and possibly keeping the processor cool needing less fans speed.

3) The Asus sensor shows the CPU TCase temp.
This temp isn't the core temp.

Under stress the CPU TCase could be about 10 C - 20 C lower then the cores temps.

We should look always the core temps.

My Fan Xpert allow change and save the current fan curve.
It doesn't allow to create more than one user profile.
The new fan curve will overwrite the previous fan curve.

I would keep the standard fan profile.


----------



## fatherof3

Hey Edsai,

Thanks.

I just hope its the evo fan they send out and not the 212+ (unless there is no difference)


----------



## fishymamba

I asked for a new fan after the one on my EVO lost pwm control, they sent me a new fan for free, but it took a very very long time.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> I asked for a new fan after the one on my EVO lost pwm control, they sent me a new fan for free, but it took a very very long time.


At least it's free.


----------



## Jaren1

I am having difficulties deciding what to go with. This air cooler or a H50 or 55. what say ye?


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaren1*
> 
> I am having difficulties deciding what to go with. This air cooler or a H50 or 55. what say ye?


Well let me ease your mind a bit. I am a proud 212 EVO owner. With it I was getting around 55c-56C under Prime 95 with a 4.25GHz OC on my Phenom 2. I am not proud to say that I kicked my 212 out of my computer and foolishly shoved in a ThermalTake Water 2.0 Pro (H80 sort of idea) Its performing worse than my 212 with load temps of between 58c-60C I thought I was seeing things when I saw those temps. I reseated the cooler and put better fans on and it didn't get any better. Stability is worse due to the increase in temps. Worst part is I paid R450 (+- $40) for the Hyper (R350 for cooler and R100 for a second fan) compared to the Water 2.0 I payed R950 (+-$90) for AND I GET WORSE TEMPS.







I will now be saving up for a full custom water loop into my ever continuing quest for MAX OC! But a closed loop system isn't going to get you there. Don't waste your time with closed loop. It isn't worth the money!


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jaren1*
> 
> I am having difficulties deciding what to go with. This air cooler or a H50 or 55. what say ye?
> 
> 
> 
> Well let me ease your mind a bit. I am a proud 212 EVO owner. With it I was getting around 55c-56C under Prime 95 with a 4.25GHz OC on my Phenom 2. I am not proud to say that I kicked my 212 out of my computer and foolishly shoved in a ThermalTake Water 2.0 Pro (H80 sort of idea) Its performing worse than my 212 with load temps of between 58c-60C I thought I was seeing things when I saw those temps. I reseated the cooler and put better fans on and it didn't get any better. Stability is worse due to the increase in temps. Worst part is I paid R450 (+- $40) for the Hyper (R350 for cooler and R100 for a second fan) compared to the Water 2.0 I payed R950 (+-$90) for AND I GET WORSE TEMPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will now be saving up for a full custom water loop into my ever continuing quest for MAX OC! But a closed loop system isn't going to get you there. Don't waste your time with closed loop. It isn't worth the money!
Click to expand...

A good closed loop system will have superior temps. A poorly designed one will have worse temps.

Source Techpowerup


----------



## Alastair

So guys what ae your opinions on the Spector Pro series of fans?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> So guys what ae your opinions on the Spector Pro series of fans?


They're quite good from what I see.


----------



## Alastair

Yeah I am planning a custom loop to put in place of my 212 and I thought 2 of the 140mm Spector Pro PWM's seemed to be a good choice based on their specs. Just want to know if anybody in the club here has experience with the spector Pros.


----------



## eBombzor

Anyone know what TIM the Hyper Evo ships with? Also, is it true that thicker TIMs are better for the GPU than the CPU?


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Anyone know what TIM the Hyper Evo ships with? Also, is it true that thicker TIMs are better for the GPU than the CPU?


It ships with a cooler master thermal compound kit, couldn't actually find it on their site.

Here's a pic:


And test results: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2011/1202/5


----------



## eBombzor

Thanks but I wanted an exact name. Does it still use ThermalFusion400?


----------



## sooyong94

My CPU fan (Hyper 212 Evo) runs at around 1500RPM, and how do I make it spins quieter? Tried adjusting the BIOS didn't help.








My board is ASRock Z77 Pro4-M BTW. I don't have this problem a few days back.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> Thanks but I wanted an exact name. Does it still use ThermalFusion400?


I'm pretty sure that the 212 doesn't come with the ThermalFusion 400.
Look the OP 1st post.

I'm a 212 Plus owner and it didn't come with this paste.
My 212 Plus is still the 1st version with fan clips, not the fan brackets like the 212 Evo.

The current paste is just called Cooler Master Thermal Compound Kit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sooyong94*
> 
> My CPU fan (Hyper 212 Evo) runs at around 1500RPM, and how do I make it spins quieter? Tried adjusting the BIOS didn't help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My board is ASRock Z77 Pro4-M BTW. I don't have this problem a few days back.


Is your Evo the US or the Euro version?

If your Evo is the Euro version my bet is that the fan is running at full blast without speed control.
The Euro version comes with a fan with max 1600 rpm +/- 10%.


----------



## hucklebuck

I have been thinking about getting this cooler. Is it still the best cooler I can get for around $30? I have a concern about the weight, will the weight of this cooler damage my MB? I haven't used air coolers this large before. What kind of Overclock can I expect from this? Currently I have a FX 8320 running 4Ghz at 60 * C during 12 hour large data set OCCT.

I have seen the + version on sale for $20 after rebate. Is there any difference between the + and the EVO?


----------



## eBombzor

Yes this is definitely the best for $30. The weight will not damage your motherboard because it comes with a backplate. I've never seen a heavy aircooler damage a motherboard.

The plus is a little bit older and performs a tiny bit worse than the Evo. The Evo has a revised plate but other than that, they are the same.


----------



## alextheguy

Guys, should it be hot to touch the hyper 212 evo heatsink when the cpu is hot like in around 60 to 70 degree celcius? Thanks for clarification.


----------



## Jared2608

It will definitely get warm since it draws the heat into itself to get it away from the CPU.


----------



## alextheguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608*
> 
> It will definitely get warm since it draws the heat into itself to get it away from the CPU.


If it is not that warm meaning have to re-sit and reapply the TIM?


----------



## Jared2608

You should judge that decision on the temperature of your CPU, not by how warm or cool the heat sink is. If it is cooling your CPU properly then leave it as is. If your CPU is hotter than it should be, then you can try reapplying the TIM and the cooler. Remember that too much TIM can also adversely affect the cooling of your CPU.

EDIT: Also remember that in some cases the heat sink won't feel very warm at all, especially if you have a lot of other fans or cooling in your case to help with heat dissipation.


----------



## alextheguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608*
> 
> You should judge that decision on the temperature of your CPU, not by how warm or cool the heat sink is. If it is cooling your CPU properly then leave it as is. If your CPU is hotter than it should be, then you can try reapplying the TIM and the cooler. Remember that too much TIM can also adversely affect the cooling of your CPU.
> 
> EDIT: Also remember that in some cases the heat sink won't feel very warm at all, especially if you have a lot of other fans or cooling in your case to help with heat dissipation.


Yeah, my cpu hits up to 7x degree celcius and I touch the heatsink and its cold like nothing happens. So I m suspecting if I get anything wrong.


----------



## Jared2608

I'm not 100% sure about Ivy Bridge, but if those temperatures are normal, then don't worry.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I have been thinking about getting this cooler. Is it still the best cooler I can get for around $30? I have a concern about the weight, will the weight of this cooler damage my MB? I haven't used air coolers this large before. What kind of Overclock can I expect from this? Currently I have a FX 8320 running 4Ghz at 60 * C during 12 hour large data set OCCT.
> 
> I have seen the + version on sale for $20 after rebate. Is there any difference between the + and the EVO?


People should get ovet the weight and size of coolers. This is an extremely small and light cooler, there are coolers twice or even three times as big and heavy and they don't damage motherboards.


----------



## hucklebuck

I can get the 212 evo for $30 or the 212+ for $20 which should I get?


----------



## xxpenguinxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I can get the 212 evo for $30 or the 212+ for $20 which should I get?


I'd go with the 212+ and spend the extra $10 on a second fan for a push-pull setup.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I can get the 212 evo for $30 or the 212+ for $20 which should I get?


For your CPU, I would recommend the Evo. The current AMD parts use a bit more wattage than Intel parts and they also overclock pretty good, so you will want cooling to take advantage of that.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jared2608*
> 
> You should judge that decision on the temperature of your CPU, not by how warm or cool the heat sink is. If it is cooling your CPU properly then leave it as is. If your CPU is hotter than it should be, then you can try reapplying the TIM and the cooler. *Remember that too much TIM can also adversely affect the cooling of your CPU*.
> 
> EDIT: Also remember that in some cases the heat sink won't feel very warm at all, especially if you have a lot of other fans or cooling in your case to help with heat dissipation.


This ! TIM is supposed to fill the gaps between the cooler base and the IHS. Just like drywall taping IMO


----------



## CannedBullets

Hey, I just ordered a 212 EVO. How silent is it with the stock fan?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Hey, I just ordered a 212 EVO. How silent is it with the stock fan?


Not as good as the Blademaster that comes stock on the Plus model. A lot of us have switched over. I actually use the Blades on my Dark Knight now.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Not as good as the Blademaster that comes stock on the Plus model. A lot of us have switched over. I actually use the Blades on my Dark Knight now.


But the EVO's stock fans will still be quieter than my FX-6300's stock fan right? Because that thing is loud.


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> Not as good as the Blademaster that comes stock on the Plus model. A lot of us have switched over. I actually use the Blades on my Dark Knight now.
> 
> 
> 
> But the EVO's stock fans will still be quieter than my FX-6300's stock fan right? Because that thing is loud.
Click to expand...

it should be quiter than your stock cooler, i just use the stock fan for the EVO on my wifes rig and i cant hear it.


----------



## edsai

Both the Evo stock fan XtraFlo and the Plus stock fan Blademaster are quiet at 1200 rpm.

They're loud at max 2000 rpm.


----------



## eBombzor

I thought the Evo also came with Blademaster. Just a clear version.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eBombzor*
> 
> I thought the Evo also came with Blademaster. Just a clear version.


Okay.

Hyper 212.

Came with SickleFlow 120 Blue LED Fan (R4-L2R-20AC-GP).


Hyper 212+

Came with Blade Master 120mm (R4-BMBS-20PK-R0) .


Hyper 212 Evo

Came with XtraFlo 120


----------



## Jeffwx7

What's the deal with the XtraFlo 120s being almost impossible to find?? I found a place that will ship one to me...provided I take a trip to India!


----------



## xxpenguinxx

As an alternative you could go with the Xigmatek XAF-F1255. If you don't like LED's you can just un-solder the wires to them.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233101


----------



## dd24fan

My 2013 Gaming Rig built earlier this month:

ASRock 990FX Extreme9
AMD FX-8350 Vishera 4.0 GHz
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
G.SKILL Ripjaws Z series 32 GB
XFX Double D HD7970 1050 MHz Xfire
XFX 1250W Pro Series Power Supply


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dd24fan*
> 
> My 2013 Gaming Rig built earlier this month:
> 
> ASRock 990FX Extreme9
> AMD FX-8350 Vishera
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> G.SKILL Ripjaws Z series 32 GB
> XFX Double D HD7970 Xfire
> XFX 1250W Pro Series Power Supply
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER


Nice looking setup! Quite a PSU you put in there. Out of curiosity, what fans did you use on the Evo?


----------



## dd24fan

Thanks! The other fan was from the prior build I had that was on the bottom of the case. It's a Cooler Master Blue LED 120 mm.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxpenguinxx*
> 
> As an alternative you could go with the Xigmatek XAF-F1255. If you don't like LED's you can just un-solder the wires to them.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233101


I've got 4 of these in my rig. I had one on my 212 and it did great. A good bit quieter than the xtraflo.


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> I've got 4 of these in my rig. I had one on my 212 and it did great. A good bit quieter than the xtraflo.


If only they had blue LEDs instead of white they would be perfect. Not sure I want to mix blue and white led fans. I'm just kind of OCD like that I guess


----------



## Gavush

yeah, that would bother me too.


----------



## neo0031

Can I be added? My cheap rig. Proud owner of the 212 Evo though.


----------



## edsai

Very nice looking case and welcome to the club.

I still remember your previous thread about the case and the 212.
I'm glad to see that the 212 really fits well in the case.

Cheers.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> Very nice looking case and welcome to the club.
> 
> I still remember your previous thread about the case and the 212.
> I'm glad to see that the 212 really fits well in the case.
> 
> Cheers.


Haha yeah thanks for your help.







. The 212 Evo is immensely cool. Will never look back. Fits like a glove.









EDIT : Added myself.


----------



## raindog138

my first build need to get on sleeves for those cables


----------



## neo0031

I'm gonna put carbon fibre decal on my 212 Evo soon.







everyone else's looks so awesome!


----------



## ElGuigui

Hi everyone,

I meet some difficulties to tighten down the thumbscrew on the middle of the heatsink bracket :s In fact, I push the thumbscrew but it's don't block on the hole. I don't understand because it's seem to be a step easy.

Can someone help me ?

Thanks you


----------



## neo0031

As for me, I'm unsure wither. But the temps are good, and it doesn't wobble, so I forgot about it. But yeah, I don't get the point of the thumbscrew in the centre because for ME, I can tighten it endlessly and not make a difference. I haven't tried loosening it though.... lol


----------



## DrBrogbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElGuigui*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I meet some difficulties to tighten down the thumbscrew on the middle of the heatsink bracket :s In fact, I push the thumbscrew but it's don't block on the hole. I don't understand because it's seem to be a step easy.
> 
> Can someone help me ?
> 
> Thanks you


It's been a while since I installed my 212, but I don't remember that screw tightening down at all. I'm almost positive it's just there to hold the heatsink in place. The other 4 screws are the ones that tighten down.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrBrogbo*
> 
> It's been a while since I installed my 212, but I don't remember that screw tightening down at all. I'm almost positive it's just there to hold the heatsink in place. The other 4 screws are the ones that tighten down.


This. I wouldn't worry about it. The instruction manual didn't give info on caring for it either. I think the main point to that mechanism with the 4 other screws is the spring...?


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> This. I wouldn't worry about it. The instruction manual didn't give info on caring for it either. I think the main point to that mechanism with the 4 other screws is the spring...?


All that middle screw/spring does is keep pressure on the indentations when you open and close the x brace. Without it, the brace wouldn't stay in the open/close position.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> All that middle screw/spring does is keep pressure on the indentations when you open and close the x brace. Without it, the brace wouldn't stay in the open/close position.


As I thought.









There you go ElGuigui.









Thanks for clearing it up!


----------



## ElGuigui

Hi everyone, thanks you for your answers !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrBrogbo*
> 
> I'm almost positive it's just there to hold the heatsink in place.


Yes and that's my problem, I can't hold the heatsink in place.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramsey77*
> 
> All that middle screw/spring does is keep pressure on the indentations when you open and close the x brace


Sorry but what do you mean ?


----------



## Ramsey77

One leg has little bumps, and the other has holes. The spring just pushes these parts together :


----------



## ElGuigui

Yes, but my problem it's I can't insert the bracket in the hole of the heatsink.

If you read the LGA 1155 guide it's theses steps
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> There is a hole where this screw goes in to keep the heatsink in place:
> 
> 
> 
> The hole in the middle: once you insert the bracket, open it to the appropriate size:


Did you have a tips please ?


----------



## Ramsey77

If THIS doesn't fit into THERE, then you need to contact someone (either where you bought it or Coolermaster) for an RMA. The little notch on the edge should be aligned with the metal stud sticking out of the heatsink base next to the hole also, or it won't sit right.


----------



## CannedBullets

Yeah, I installed it a couple weeks ago. Its far better than the stock cooler on my FX-6300 and its quieter but when I tried stress testing after I overclocked (failed, I reset the bios, I might try overclocking again) the temperatures got really high with the socket temperature at 61-62 degrees C. It should be fine because the CPU core temperature was around maybe 50-56 degrees or so according to HWMonitor and because the maximum safe socket temperature is 72 degrees C, then again I heard the core CPU temps could be inaccurate for FX chips. I might add a second fan to it though.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I installed it a couple weeks ago. Its far better than the stock cooler on my FX-6300 and its quieter but when I tried stress testing after I overclocked (failed, I reset the bios, I might try overclocking again) the temperatures got really high with the socket temperature at 61-62 degrees C. It should be fine because the CPU core temperature was around maybe 50-56 degrees or so according to HWMonitor and because the maximum safe socket temperature is 72 degrees C, then again I heard the core CPU temps could be inaccurate for FX chips. I might add a second fan to it though.


Could it be that it's the TMPIN2 you're talking about that is at the 60/70s degress? If so, mnine is too, where my CPU/Package temp stays around the 40s under load. I would like to think the high temp is the VRM cooler? (Where all the voltages are going through?) Cuz I can't seem to drop it either...

(FX-6200 with Gigabyte board.)


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Could it be that it's the TMPIN2 you're talking about that is at the 60/70s degress? If so, mnine is too, where my CPU/Package temp stays around the 40s under load. I would like to think the high temp is the VRM cooler? (Where all the voltages are going through?) Cuz I can't seem to drop it either...
> 
> (FX-6200 with Gigabyte board.)


That's... "generally" is the Motherboard's NorthBrigde... problem is when you OC your CPU that temp skyrockets. Hence the debate.


----------



## neo0031

Yeah that's what I keep reading too. Is it too high? (60 something.) Should I downclock a notch from 4.2 to 4.1 or 4.0?


----------



## KyleMart06

Have not used AMD for awhile. My i5 2500K is running temp of low to mid 60s with Prime 95. Seems like you are running in the right ballpark. I am pushing a nice 4.3 overclock.


----------



## neo0031

But same case for northbridge temp, not core temp? My core/package temp seems fine. It's my TMPIN2/NorthBridge temp I'm worried about...


----------



## KyleMart06

Got ya. I missed that. To be honest I did not test that out at all. On my rig I did not experience any stability issues. Dealing with Intel which would be different. Best to have someone else answer that question.


----------



## neo0031

I'm not having any stability issues at all. Folding on full as I type. Just worried as weather is getting warmer here (not for long though, sigh...) and slightly worried about the NB's 60C + temp.

To be fair, not much I can do about NB temp right? Case only allow one exhaust fan and 2 + 1 intake. Changing all to the "best" fans won't help much.


----------



## KyleMart06

Some people I have seen rig up small fans to blow right on some of those parts. Other than that I would say you are probably fine. I am not well versed on that so take it with a grain of salt but wouldn't hurt to just cross check. Either way though your 212 Evo is probably not going to influence the north bridge.


----------



## neo0031

Yeah I know we're completely off topic from the 212 Evo







Sorry







The 212 Evo cools my CPU very well. No complaints.









I have a weak silent side fan blowing all over the MB. Better than none I guess. Tried putting the 212 Evo's stock Xtraflo on it, but not that much difference. I guess I'll live with it.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Could it be that it's the TMPIN2 you're talking about that is at the 60/70s degress? If so, mnine is too, where my CPU/Package temp stays around the 40s under load. I would like to think the high temp is the VRM cooler? (Where all the voltages are going through?) Cuz I can't seem to drop it either...
> 
> (FX-6200 with Gigabyte board.)


The socket temperature is referred as CPUTIN on my FX-6300 + ASRock 970 Extreme3 for me. Yeah it gets pretty hot when I'm stress testing an overclock.


----------



## d6bmg

Here's mine:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Picture is a bit old and it was a test setup for the purpose of overclocking capability testing of the motherboard - which didn't go well..
Currently, I'm not using Hyper 12 EVO anywhere. It's just sitting idle.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d6bmg*
> 
> Here's mine:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture is a bit old and it was a test setup for the purpose of overclocking capability testing of the motherboard - which didn't go well..
> Currently, I'm not using Hyper 12 EVO anywhere. It's just sitting idle.


So may I ask, what are you using to cool, and to cool what?


----------



## hucklebuck

I just got the "EVO" today and looked over the instructions, looks pretty simple to install. I have a question though. I plan on running just 1 fan with it should I run it in push, pull or does it matter? I am using it on a AMD FX 8320 on a Sabertooth board.

What kind of results should I expect from it?


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I just got the "EVO" today and looked over the instructions, looks pretty simple to install. I have a question though. I plan on running just 1 fan with it should I run it in push, pull or does it matter? I am using it on a AMD FX 8320 on a Sabertooth board.
> 
> What kind of results should I expect from it?


There is not much difference if any between push or pull, i prefer pull which i use on my wifes rig in my sig.


----------



## neo0031

Yup. With such a slim tower cooler like the Evo (which I am using), push or pull only differentiate at about 1C degree MAX.


----------



## Ramsey77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> There is not much difference if any between push or pull, i prefer pull which i use on my wifes rig in my sig.


I think it really depends on the level of overclock, and how close to the maximum amount of dissipation your cooler can handle. At or near the peak, that 2nd fan would really help move the air through faster/more efficiently. I am running 1 fan now (due to an RMA) and I can tell you that I am seeing a 6-7C difference just at idle. (I haven't run any benches yet, and don't really want to without dropping the OC back to 4.3).

EDIT: Nevermind. I thought you were discussing Push/Pull and just one fan.







Reading comprehension fail.


----------



## Firedexx

So if you have a push/pull ( I have my p/p going from right to left if your looking at the CPU) set up how do you want your rear fan facing..blowing in or blowing out?


----------



## hucklebuck

Right now I'm just running 1 fan in push, much better than stock cooling. 20* C + cooler on core and socket. Much quieter too.

Now If I want to run 2 fans, 1 on each side of cooler in push/pull will this help my temps even more?


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> Right now I'm just running 1 fan in push, much better than stock cooling. 20* C + cooler on core and socket. Much quieter too.
> 
> Now If I want to run 2 fans, 1 on each side of cooler in push/pull will this help my temps even more?


Maybe only 1-2 degrees drop. The slimmer single tower won't benefit that much from push/pull.

The reason I switched to the Evo was because the stock cooler was too loud, and the 1 stock fan that came with the Evo is quiet as a mouse. If you're not going to OC it more and don't want more noise, stick with 1 fan.

EDIT: Here's a LINK where a very nice user had conducted test with the Hyper 212 + (almost identical to the Evo) regarding Push, Pull, or Push/Pull and orientation.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Here is my addition to the thread:


----------



## dmfree88

Im here and I GOT ONE







, mines the new clear fan.. dont know if thats a good thing or not.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Im here and I GOT ONE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , mines the new clear fan.. dont know if thats a good thing or not.


Can't really tell you if it's good or bad as that depends on your preferences. Quality of the fan seems fine and it moves a decent amount of air, but it sure isn't quiet.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> Can't really tell you if it's good or bad as that depends on your preferences. Quality of the fan seems fine and it moves a decent amount of air, but it sure isn't quiet.


Yeah its fairly loud at high rpm but when it comes down to 900 rpm its barely audible at all. I have enough case fans (3) right up next to it blowing out that even under load it never increased but 10% at most. I suppose it depends what case/mobo you have but i dont think I even need the 2nd fan attached. It runs great without it and is only loud during startup. I have been fairly impressed.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Yeah its fairly loud at high rpm but when it comes down to 900 rpm its barely audible at all. I have enough case fans (3) right up next to it blowing out that even under load it never increased but 10% at most. I suppose it depends what case/mobo you have but i dont think I even need the 2nd fan attached. It runs great without it and is only loud during startup. I have been fairly impressed.


You don't need a second fan.
Most people here will tell you that any increase in performance is marginal at best. I run push/pull on it primarily for aesthetic reasons.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> You don't need a second fan.
> Most people here will tell you that any increase in performance is marginal at best. I run push/pull on it primarily for aesthetic reasons.


Yea only reason i was kinda thinking about it is it would put some more push on the case fan and less stress on it over time aswell as the fan thats in there. but it seems like i couldnt really take much stress from it since it barely ever raises rpm


----------



## fatherof3

I have mine mounted horizontally and 2 fans on push/pull running @4.8 i see no difference running 2 fans, saying that i have a 200mm on pull 3" above the evo's "pull"

With my old p8 pro i was 1.328V whereas my UD5H wants 1.36 strangely.


----------



## edsai

The 212 Plus and the US Evo stock fans aren't quiet at higher speeds.

The noise can be overcome by using two lower rpm fans to achieve about the same cooling of a single higher rpm fan and also being a bit quieter.

Two fans at 1500 rpm can be quieter than a single fan spinning at 2000 rpm and also keeping about the same temps.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> The 212 Plus and the US Evo stock fans aren't quiet at higher speeds.
> 
> The noise can be overcome by using two lower rpm fans to achieve about the same cooling of a single higher rpm fan and also being a bit quieter.
> 
> Two fans at 1500 rpm can be quieter than a single fan spinning at 2000 rpm and also keeping about the same temps.


¿What is the point in buying a budget Cooler and then spending extra money in fans that will be half is not more the price of the cooler itself?


----------



## dmfree88

i dont know why youd need the 2 fans. it almost never sees 1000 rpm. Case fans handle 1/2 the cooling. I never hear the fan. Really a great cooler asside from the mounting hardware being fairly cheesy. I really wasnt impressed with having to bend it to make it barely fit on my am3+ 8350. Of course my mobo is currently having issues so i will know its true potential once my pc actually works right again


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> ¿What is the point in buying a budget Cooler and then spending extra money in fans that will be half is not more the price of the cooler itself?


Yes, I would agree with it.

I'm just speaking of the benefit of two fans for quiet purposes.
There's people that don't like the stock fan to seems noise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> i dont know why youd need the 2 fans. it almost never sees 1000 rpm. Case fans handle 1/2 the cooling. I never hear the fan. Really a great cooler asside from the mounting hardware being fairly cheesy. I really wasnt impressed with having to bend it to make it barely fit on my am3+ 8350. Of course my mobo is currently having issues so i will know its true potential once my pc actually works right again


Yes, I would agree with it.

The fan is quiet around 1000 rpm, but noise level is subjective.
It could be not quiet for everyone when the processor is under heavy load and the fan is running at higher speed.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> The fan is quiet around 1000 rpm, but noise level is subjective.
> It could be not quiet for everyone when the processor is under heavy load and the fan is running at higher speed.


Yeah i could definitely understand that. It sounds pretty horrible when the smart fan cpu control is off. Its a loud fan at anyhting above 60% speed but lower its virtually silent. Kinda depends what kinda setup you have whether its gonna be an effective silent cooler for ya or not. but yeah adding 2 of them should alleviate the loud noise for most people i would imagine. im sure 2 of them at 1000 rpm would be far less noise then just one at 1400 rpm..


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> ¿What is the point in buying a budget Cooler and then spending extra money in fans that will be half is not more the price of the cooler itself?


That's a good point. I was ready to spring for a couple of better fans for my Evo, then realized the cost of the 2 fans greatly exceeded the actual cost of the cooler itself. Besides, the only time the stock fan gets really loud is when I stress test.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> ¿What is the point in buying a budget Cooler and then spending extra money in fans that will be half is not more the price of the cooler itself?


Your logic is flawed as it does not take into account those of us who have very specific noise requirements. Pretty much any cooler on the market is much to loud for me, so no matter which one I buy, I will have to change the fans. Simply running them at lower speeds doesn't do it as that would be a compromise that the fan is not designed for.

Then there are aesthetic considerations. In my current rig all the fans are clearly visible. It would annoy me to death if those fans did not match.

As for the financial side. I spent about 50% of the 212's price, on 2 new fans. Combined, that is still only about half of what a NH-D14 costs. And that is without adding the cost of new fans for the NH-D14, which it needs for reasons listed above.


----------



## hucklebuck

I'm content with the stock fan that the EVO comes with. It's not really that loud. When I stress test it does get louder, but that's to be expected. I only stress test when I test an OC.. It is much quieter than the stock HS/fan.

I did think about additional fans, but found out it doesn't do much more for temperatures. Just isn't worth the extra money for my needs.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> I'm content with the stock fan that the EVO comes with. It's not really that loud. When I stress test it does get louder, but that's to be expected. I only stress test when I test an OC.. It is much quieter than the stock HS/fan.
> 
> I did think about additional fans, but found out it doesn't do much more for temperatures. Just isn't worth the extra money for my needs.


Noise is subjective.


----------



## Phos

The evo's stock fan never becomes inaudible, it always has what I believe to be a motor tick.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phos*
> 
> The evo's stock fan never becomes inaudible, it always has what I believe to be a motor tick.


Both of mine never ticks.


----------



## d6bmg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *d6bmg*
> 
> Here's mine:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture is a bit old and it was a test setup for the purpose of overclocking capability testing of the motherboard - which didn't go well..
> Currently, I'm not using Hyper 12 EVO anywhere. It's just sitting idle.
> 
> 
> 
> So may I ask, what are you using to cool, and to cool what?
Click to expand...

I use Corsair H100 to cool my i7-2700K in my main rig.


----------



## Professional

I have a question, where i can find fans to use for CM 212 EVo one? Either another fan same of the stock but to put on the opposite, or buy 2 different model and replace the stock one, one fan maybe not much enough for long run so i wanted to have 2 fans each side of that cooler rather than one fan.


----------



## edsai

The US Evo comes with a XtraFlo non led 2000 rpm and the Euro Evo comes with a XtraFlo 1600 rpm.

I know that the only place in the US that you can find the OEM XtraFlo non led 2000 rpm is from CM Store wich is pricey.

http://www.cmstore-usa.com/hyper-212-evo-120mm-fan-oem-package

It's recommended to use the same fan models for push pull in order to avoid excess turbulence.
There's also splitters to hook the fans in the same CPU Fan header.


----------



## Professional

I think we sell here only the Euro Evo, so how can i find it?
Another site someone said that he replaced that CM fan and inserted Noctua one as he said it was better, so is it true or is it better?


----------



## neo0031

I'm pretty sure last time I checked eBay sells XtraFlos. US or EU version, I'm not sure. (UK owner)

Replacing the XtraFlo with higher end fans would of course be better. It's just how MUCH better, for the money you're gonna be spending... Sigh.

For example, replacing the stock fan on the Evo with a Cougar 120mm drops 2 to 4 degrees for me, depending on load and whatnot.


----------



## Professional

So if i want to replace that XtraFlos or stock fan for something better or good quality performance, which one do you recommend me to get?


----------



## neo0031

I would get 2 Corsair SP120 PWM in push/pull, because it'll be decent temps, and it'll look dang awesome.


----------



## edsai

I found the XtraFlo from a HK ebay seller for $18.80 with free shipping.
It doesn't worth for a sleeve fan.

In the US the Blade Master is a good fan for $10:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103069

This a feedback made by Tator Tot about the Blademasters:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1321074/tator-tots-big-quiet-120mm-140mm-fan-round-up/1350#post_19645860


----------



## Professional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> I would get 2 Corsair SP120 PWM in push/pull, because it'll be decent temps, and it'll look dang awesome.


Thank you very very much!


----------



## Peanuts4

How well do these fit in a Lian Li A05n case, anyone have both?


----------



## Professional

So which one of those?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=Corsair+SP120+PWM&N=-1&isNodeId=1


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> I'm pretty sure last time I checked eBay sells XtraFlos. US or EU version, I'm not sure. (UK owner)
> 
> Replacing the XtraFlo with higher end fans would of course be better. It's just how MUCH better, for the money you're gonna be spending... Sigh.
> 
> For example, replacing the stock fan on the Evo with a Cougar 120mm drops 2 to 4 degrees for me, depending on load and whatnot.


To be honest you wont get much better. Blademasters are your best bet that wont even drop your temps by much. If you want to improve temps with a better fan you would probably have to go for those 3000rpm+ San-Ace fans! But of course you end up sounding like a harrier jet taking off in the end... Which would ultimately be counter-productive.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> I would get 2 Corsair SP120 PWM in push/pull, because it'll be decent temps, and it'll look dang awesome.


They may look nifty, but those things are LOUD unless you keep them at the absolute lowest speed they will go.
I would not consider them a real upgrade from the stock fans. Especially not when you consider that better fans can be had for around half the price.

As for all this talk of dropping the temps. For the most part, there is not a whole lot to gain here. Don't upgrade fans hoping to get much better cooling. Upgrade them to get the same cooling with less noise.


----------



## wongwarren

Isn't it already established by this time what fan options are the best? Read the thread before asking questions. Most questions are already answered.


----------



## Professional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Isn't it already established by this time what fan options are the best? Read the thread before asking questions. Most questions are already answered.


I am new here and i am not good in reading much and English is not my language, and this thread exceeding 500+ pages, i think i will spend ages and ages to find the answers for questions have been asked.


----------



## alextheguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> I am new here and i am not good in reading much and English is not my language, and this thread exceeding 500+ pages, i think i will spend ages and ages to find the answers for questions have been asked.


It's okay. Personally, i m using the arctic f12 pwm fans which are very silent even at full speed in push and pull config or u can add a another hyper 212 evo fan which is named 'xtraflo 120' for push/pull config but they are noisy when spinning at full speed...there are actually a ton of choices..just go whatever fans u like and i would say the difference in lowering the cpu temp is very minimal.


----------



## Professional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alextheguy*
> 
> It's okay. Personally, i m using the arctic f12 pwm fans which are very silent even at full speed in push and pull config or u can add a another hyper 212 evo fan which is named 'xtraflo 120' for push/pull config but they are noisy when spinning at full speed...there are actually a ton of choices..just go whatever fans u like and i would say the difference in lowering the cpu temp is very minimal.


Well, i don't know which fan i like, anything may look fine good for me, and i asked for one extra fan or replace the one of the stock and get one more so i have 2 fans, i am not looking to have big decrease in temp anyway, but lowering say 2-5 degrees will be good, the fans are cheap anyway.


----------



## alextheguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> Well, i don't know which fan i like, anything may look fine good for me, and i asked for one extra fan or replace the one of the stock and get one more so i have 2 fans, i am not looking to have big decrease in temp anyway, but lowering say 2-5 degrees will be good, the fans are cheap anyway.


Yeah. A fan with high static pressure is good. Or buy some fans and try out yourself in determining the best fan config like conducting an experiment...


----------



## neo0031

Just get some Noctuas and get it over and done with. (If you don't mind the colours that is







) or you could wait for Noctua to release their black fans


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Just get some Noctuas and get it over and done with. (If you don't mind the colours that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) or you could wait for Noctua to release their black fans


While Noctua do make some really great fans, they are to much of a compromise here. The really quiet Noctuas have very limited CFM ans SP. The ones that have the performance are not exactly quiet.

They are brilliant for many things, but in this situation they are just to much of a compromise. Not to mention that you will be paying more for two fans than for the 212 itself.
For the price of two Noctua fans and a 212, you could get a NH-D14 or a H60.

The 212 is a great cooler. And it's low price and good performance justifies spending a bit more on making it quiet. But when you have to double it's price, there are better options.


----------



## neo0031

Yes I have noticed that. I'm very aware of the price bracket the 212 is in







just meant for some irony.









IMO, sticking with the cheap and efficient ways of the 212, just getting another XtraFlo or whatever one got as stock, and just pair it up for push/pull. The price/performance gain ratio is not big enough to justify higher costs.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> IMO, sticking with the cheap and efficient ways of the 212, just getting another XtraFlo or whatever one got as stock, and just pair it up for push/pull. The price/performance gain ratio is not big enough to justify higher costs.


Only if your definition of performance does not include noise.
Over the years I have used quite a few different coolers. And the vast majority of them have been too loud for me with stock fans. Even the NH-D14 is too loud and I have swapped fans on one of those for that exact reason.

I paid around $40,- for my 212 and about $10,- each for the two fans on it. That is a total price of around $50,-
For that money there is no way I could get the same cooling at the same low noise level with any other cooler. So the extra $20,- for better fans are more than justified as they are what makes the 212 quiet enough that I want it in my house.


----------



## Professional

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> Only if your definition of performance does not include noise.
> Over the years I have used quite a few different coolers. And the vast majority of them have been too loud for me with stock fans. Even the NH-D14 is too loud and I have swapped fans on one of those for that exact reason.
> 
> I paid around $40,- for my 212 and about $10,- each for the two fans on it. That is a total price of around $50,-
> For that money there is no way I could get the same cooling at the same low noise level with any other cooler. So the extra $20,- for better fans are more than justified as they are what makes the 212 quiet enough that I want it in my house.


didn't it lower or decrease the performance when you changed to have quieter fans?


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Professional*
> 
> didn't it lower or decrease the performance when you changed to have quieter fans?


Not really.
The rig the 212 is in, has a i5 3570 and it has never been above 60C. Even running Prime95 it still stays in the 55-60C range It idles in the low 30's.
This is a pretty new rig so these temps are all during summer weather. They should drop when the weather starts to get colder.

Quieter does not necessarily equal less performance. It's all about knowing how much you need and how much you actually benefit from. There is a limit to how far you can push any given heatsink. At a certain point, pushing more air through it simply won't give you any more cooling. The trick is to get the best possible balance.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Noise is subjective.


Thats what I meant in my post.


----------



## Artimunor

I recently bought a haswell i5 4430 together with the asus H87I plus motherboard, the cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-evo and a bitfenix prodigy.
When trying to fit the backplate of the coolermaster i found out that the asus H87I plus motherboard had alot of tiny chips on the bottom in the place where the backplate should be.
Now i didnt want to squeeze those, so i would really like to know if its possible to install this coolermaster without the backplate (and how, perhaps there is a guide for that somewhere already?)
Note that in the prodigy the coolermaster will be vertical instead of horizontal, so it wont have any hanging-forces applied to it, perhaps the rotaries would create some kind of pushing-force however, would this be safe?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artimunor*
> 
> I recently bought a haswell i5 4430 together with the asus H87I plus motherboard, the cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-evo and a bitfenix prodigy.
> When trying to fit the backplate of the coolermaster i found out that the asus H87I plus motherboard had alot of tiny chips on the bottom in the place where the backplate should be.
> Now i didnt want to squeeze those, so i would really like to know if its possible to install this coolermaster without the backplate (and how, perhaps there is a guide for that somewhere already?)
> Note that in the prodigy the coolermaster will be vertical instead of horizontal, so it wont have any hanging-forces applied to it, perhaps the rotaries would create some kind of pushing-force however, would this be safe?


If a cooler includes a backplate, it MUST be installed. Just make sure that your backplate's plastic side is facing the chips then you're good.


----------



## Artimunor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> If a cooler includes a backplate, it MUST be installed. Just make sure that your backplate's plastic side is facing the chips then you're good.


are you sure this wouldnt damage the motherboard?
they are sticking out alot on one side (3 millimeters!) and looks plastic and fragile.
also they are pretty dense on one side, and not there at the other, due to this the backplate would not be parallel with the motherboard, even if it wouldnt damage those plastic things sticking out.

i tried to google a photo of the bottom of this board, but google can not find it, i guess its still to new for that.
edit: it differs alot from the asus Z87I deluxe variant in that this one has a daughterboard and free space where the backplate would touch the motherboard (which i could see by pausing a youtube video, also not able to find any pics of the bottom of the asus z87i deluxe)


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artimunor*
> 
> are you sure this wouldnt damage the motherboard?
> they are sticking out alot on one side (3 millimeters!) and looks plastic and fragile.
> also they are pretty dense on one side, and not there at the other, due to this the backplate would not be parallel with the motherboard, even if it wouldnt damage those plastic things sticking out.
> 
> i tried to google a photo of the bottom of this board, but google can not find it, i guess its still to new for that.
> edit: it differs alot from the asus Z87I deluxe variant in that this one has a daughterboard and free space where the backplate would touch the motherboard (which i could see by pausing a youtube video, also not able to find any pics of the bottom of the asus z87i deluxe)


If a cooler manufacturer includes a backplate with their cooler, they probably already accounted for whatever that's gonna go to the back of the motherboard. And what do you mean by plastic things sticking out?


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> If a cooler manufacturer includes a backplate with their cooler, they probably already accounted for whatever that's gonna go to the back of the motherboard. And what do you mean by plastic things sticking out?


Not really.
2011 boards do not use the backplate that comes with the cooler.

And since this is a 87 chipset board it is substantially newer than the 212. So it is pretty damn reasonable to assume that Cooler Master did not design it for this board which also happens to be a new socket that is not necessarily supported.

Cooler Master actually does not list support for 1150, so you should not assume that it will just fit. And you should not advise people when you are just guessing.


----------



## SIDWULF

What method of applying thermal paste has everyone been using?

I want to do grain of rice size or spread it out over the processors heat spreader. Not sure what is the best way. I feel if I do a grain of rice of thermal paste and let the heatsink spread it around it may not cover the entire heat spreader.


----------



## neo0031

Pea size in centre method, and let the heatsink spread it out, as the paste with go where it needs to by pressure, and those are really the contact points, if you will.


----------



## SIDWULF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Pea size in centre method, and let the heatsink spread it out, as the paste with go where it needs to by pressure, and those are really the contact points, if you will.


I just checked out the User Manual and it says:

"Apply a thin layer of thermal grease onto the surface of the cooler base" and then it shows a giant pool of paste being pumped out of the applicator...It does not explain how to apply the thin layer of thermal grease.

Do as the picture suggests... right?


----------



## EvanWeiler

Hey guys, so I just ordered a 212 EVO and I am have a bit of a dilemma on which fans to use. I am looking at putting two fans that are about 10 buck each on it. Right now I'm looking at two Sickleflows and two Blademasters, which would give me better temps? Or if there are better fans for 10 dollars each (and decently quiet, <35 DBa preferably), let me know.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIDWULF*
> 
> I just checked out the User Manual and it says:
> 
> "Apply a thin layer of thermal grease onto the surface of the cooler base" and then it shows a giant pool of paste being pumped out of the applicator...It does not explain how to apply the thin layer of thermal grease.
> 
> Do as the picture suggests... right?


The general consensus is that it is not advised to spread the thermal paste. By doing so you risk creating airbubbles that will negatively affect cooling.
There is no reason to spread it. The heatsink will do that just fine.

A grain of rice sized blob in the middle and let the heatsink do the spreading. It is the simplest way and it is proven to work.


----------



## Phos

I dunno if this apples to the evo but on a lot of HDT style coolers the grain of rice isn't enough because some of it ends up in the cracks in the base, ends up not spreading as widely. I've seen articles that say you want to put thin lines on the heat pipes.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phos*
> 
> I dunno if this apples to the evo but on a lot of HDT style coolers the grain of rice isn't enough because some of it ends up in the cracks in the base, ends up not spreading as widely. I've seen articles that say you want to put thin lines on the heat pipes.


This.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvanWeiler*
> 
> Hey guys, so I just ordered a 212 EVO and I am have a bit of a dilemma on which fans to use. I am looking at putting two fans that are about 10 buck each on it. Right now I'm looking at two Sickleflows and two Blademasters, which would give me better temps? Or if there are better fans for 10 dollars each (and decently quiet, <35 DBa preferably), let me know.


SickleFlows are bad as heat-sink fans. They're also fairly loud in real life. BladeMasters are excellent heat-sink fans. They're loud at full speed, but due to their PWM capability, they are able to run quietly most of the time.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> A grain of rice sized blob in the middle and let the heatsink do the spreading. It is the simplest way and it is proven to work.


This can depend on processor size. For a laptop a small grain of rice, for a small processor a normal grain of rice. For a big baller you might get a half a pea. I generally always put mine on processor side just cause its easier gravitationally. Photo below shows the approx amount for a large processor.


----------



## SIDWULF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> The general consensus is that it is not advised to spread the thermal paste. By doing so you risk creating airbubbles that will negatively affect cooling.
> There is no reason to spread it. The heatsink will do that just fine.
> 
> A grain of rice sized blob in the middle and let the heatsink do the spreading. It is the simplest way and it is proven to work.


Thanks bro. thanks for giving me the confidence to start tearing apart my rig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> This can depend on processor size. For a laptop a small grain of rice, for a small processor a normal grain of rice. For a big baller you might get a half a pea. I generally always put mine on processor side just cause its easier gravitationally. Photo below shows the approx amount for a large processor.


Perfect that looks easy.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phos*
> 
> I dunno if this apples to the evo but on a lot of HDT style coolers the grain of rice isn't enough because some of it ends up in the cracks in the base, ends up not spreading as widely. I've seen articles that say you want to put thin lines on the heat pipes.


I think you may be taking the whole "grain of rice" a bit more literally than it should be.
Where I'm from it generally means something like "a small amount".


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIDWULF*
> 
> Thanks bro. thanks for giving me the confidence to start tearing apart my rig.
> Perfect that looks easy.


No just no. That works for normal coolers with a flat base, but doesn't spread properly underneath an HDT cooler. This is what you want.


----------



## SIDWULF

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> No just no. That works for normal coolers with a flat base, but doesn't spread properly underneath an HDT cooler. This is what you want.


The EVO has a flat base, all the heatpipes are side by side.


----------



## dmfree88

Ok guys I will probably make another post elsewhere, but I figured Id ask all of you since you own the same heatsink.

My motherboard seemed to not handle my processor + gpu. Im sending in for RMA but I have a feeling they are going to send me back one that just isnt going to be good enough anyways, so i am thinking of selling the RMA when its returned. It was a MSI 970a-G46 and it had multiple issues.

So anyways I was wondering what everyone would suggest. As you can see the price tag on the one I had before was pretty cheap. I am hoping to stay fairly cheap and only need a solid atx mobo with 1 gpu slot really. I dont plan to upgrade to SLI dont think I will need to. Would actually prefer more pci slots then the msi one has if possible. Anyways I dont know which brands are best or which models are best. I dont need anything special just want it to have the ability to overclock but probably wont ever see more then 4.5ghz so it doesnt need to be special. Just needs to function well with the fx-8350 and the GTX560ti.

Full computer specs below in signature under "my dream"
prefer full atx max height 12 inch ( i think, the msi one was exactly the tallest possible)
prefer front panel connectors for usb 3.0 as well as hd-audio
needs a good warranty and most importantly id prefer it be a somewhat older model thats tried and tested to be a good long lasting COMPATABLE AMD motherboard

Really am looking cheap as possible of course want the heatsink to fit nicely would be a perk







.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> No just no. That works for normal coolers with a flat base, but doesn't spread properly underneath an HDT cooler. This is what you want.


Welcome to airbubble town. Population = you and everyone you manage to convince.

Maybe it's time you take a seat. First you try to convince this guy to mangle his motherboard with a backplate that didn't appear to fit, and now you assume that he bought the oldest version (as in no longer being sold in most countries), and give him ****ty advise based on that.

We have been over this before. If you don't have a freaking clue about a subject, then just keep quiet.


----------



## Artimunor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dire Squirrel*
> 
> Welcome to airbubble town. Population = you and everyone you manage to convince.
> 
> Maybe it's time you take a seat. First you try to convince this guy to mangle his motherboard with a backplate that didn't appear to fit, and now you assume that he bought the oldest version (as in no longer being sold in most countries), and give him ****ty advise based on that.
> 
> We have been over this before. If you don't have a freaking clue about a subject, then just keep quiet.


I was by the way advised to use for my Asus H87I plus board the Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO (with pushpins) in another forum.
Would that perform better then the haswell stock cooler?
When i called the computer shop i could return the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO and get my money back, but the computer store guy said he wouldnt advise to buy the Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO, he said that the Haswell stock cooler should be sufficient for my Haswell i5 4430. (gotta love honest shops that are not just trying to make a buck but give you information they think is correct even when it means less sales)
As noble as his statement might have been, the question remains, is the guy right? Its hard to believe that the stock cooler with small fins is more quiet then the Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO with large fins, however i have to admit right now with stock cooler i only get alot noise when turning the computer on, after that the fans slow down and there is almost no sound, also when i put some load on the CPU i dont get much.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artimunor*
> 
> I was by the way advised to use for my Asus H87I plus board the Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO (with pushpins) in another forum.
> Would that perform better then the haswell stock cooler?
> When i called the computer shop i could return the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO and get my money back, but the computer store guy said he wouldnt advise to buy the Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO, he said that the Haswell stock cooler should be sufficient for my Haswell i5 4430. (gotta love honest shops that are not just trying to make a buck but give you information they think is correct even when it means less sales)
> As noble as his statement might have been, the question remains, is the guy right? Its hard to believe that the stock cooler with small fins is more quiet then the Cooler Master Hyper TX3 EVO with large fins, however i have to admit right now with stock cooler i only get alot noise when turning the computer on, after that the fans slow down and there is almost no sound, also when i put some load on the CPU i dont get much.


The stock cooler will be sufficient, but the TX3 will be quieter.


----------



## neo0031

Yup the problem with stock coolers is their small fans and hence loud jet noise at full. In comparison to my stock AM3+, the Evo and the XtraFlo is dead quiet, and more efficient.


----------



## fishymamba

I switched from the stock intel cooler to the TX3 in my old build. HUGE difference in temperatures and more importantly noise. The stock intel coolers are super noisy. The TX3 is dead silent by comparison.


----------



## TELVM

An atypical use for the 212 EVO, ontop a venerable Pentium 4 Preshott 3.4E HT.

  

As the 212 lacks gear for the ancient 478 socket, I had to guetto-mod it a bit.

 

Works like a charm and keeps the old flamethrowing dragon at bay @ 4.25GHz.

 

The performance/price ratio of this cooler is just superb







.

.


----------



## Artimunor

I ordered the TX3 now, and used the 212 EVO on my old E8400 rig (removed the very old zalman that was on it) and applied some fresh paste
Now that i am using haswell's stock cooler for a few days under heavy load, i have to disagree with everyone claiming its very noisy.
Perhaps you are talking about older generations stock coolers, but this one keeps my haswell CPU under load around 30 degrees with spikes to 40, and it does that without being audible at all. Just when you turn on your computer you hear the 'jet' sound for 1 or 2 seconds.
Perhaps its the asus fan control that keeps it quiet i dont know.

I will install the TX3 anyway, but i have to inform you guys about haswell's stock cooler not being noisy in any scense of the word.
Heck in fact the one that is making noise right now is the 212 EVO in my old machine, it makes alot of noise, however thats ofcourse because its on a 2007 socket 775 motherboard without any fan control whatsoever (Asus P5K) and i guess its running full speed all the time.
(it makes less noise however then the old zalman that was on it before though)


----------



## fishymamba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artimunor*
> 
> I ordered the TX3 now, and used the 212 EVO on my old E8400 rig (removed the very old zalman that was on it) and applied some fresh paste
> Now that i am using haswell's stock cooler for a few days under heavy load, i have to disagree with everyone claiming its very noisy.
> Perhaps you are talking about older generations stock coolers, but this one keeps my haswell CPU under load around 30 degrees with spikes to 40, and it does that without being audible at all. Just when you turn on your computer you hear the 'jet' sound for 1 or 2 seconds.
> Perhaps its the asus fan control that keeps it quiet i dont know.
> 
> I will install the TX3 anyway, but i have to inform you guys about haswell's stock cooler not being noisy in any scense of the word.
> Heck in fact the one that is making noise right now is the 212 EVO in my old machine, it makes alot of noise, however thats ofcourse because its on a 2007 socket 775 motherboard without any fan control whatsoever (Asus P5K) and i guess its running full speed all the time.
> (it makes less noise however then the old zalman that was on it before though)


How are the temperatures at the low noise levels? My old stock heatsink was not that loud, until I realized that the CPU was roasting. Maybe they updated the new coolers? Mine was from the Lynnfield era so maybe that is why it was noisy.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artimunor*
> 
> I ordered the TX3 now, and used the 212 EVO on my old E8400 rig (removed the very old zalman that was on it) and applied some fresh paste
> Now that i am using haswell's stock cooler for a few days under heavy load, i have to disagree with everyone claiming its very noisy.
> Perhaps you are talking about older generations stock coolers, but this one keeps my haswell CPU under load around 30 degrees with spikes to 40, and it does that without being audible at all. Just when you turn on your computer you hear the 'jet' sound for 1 or 2 seconds.
> Perhaps its the asus fan control that keeps it quiet i dont know.
> 
> I will install the TX3 anyway, but i have to inform you guys about haswell's stock cooler not being noisy in any scense of the word.
> Heck in fact the one that is making noise right now is the 212 EVO in my old machine, it makes alot of noise, however thats ofcourse because its on a 2007 socket 775 motherboard without any fan control whatsoever (Asus P5K) and i guess its running full speed all the time.
> (it makes less noise however then the old zalman that was on it before though)


Noise is a very subjective thing. I don't mind my rigs noise but the moment I heard my friend's rig, I knew that he wouldn't accept the noise from mine.


----------



## Peanuts4

is the stock fan any good?


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> is the stock fan any good?


people say when it ramps up it gets a tad loud but it is still a nice fan.


----------



## TELVM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> is the stock fan any good?


It's reasonably efficient but noisy above ~80% rpm.


----------



## Peanuts4

efficient is key, if it's pretty solid I'm not going to worry about noise.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TELVM*
> 
> It's reasonably efficient but noisy above ~80% rpm.


Still quieter than my old AMD stock fan, that's for sure.


----------



## neo0031

It's efficient enough. And the 70mm stock fan on the AMD is a real joke. Sounds like a jet taking off by itself on its own without the help of an echoing case or the heatsink. Still have nightmares about it.


----------



## Artimunor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishymamba*
> 
> How are the temperatures at the low noise levels? My old stock heatsink was not that loud, until I realized that the CPU was roasting. Maybe they updated the new coolers? Mine was from the Lynnfield era so maybe that is why it was noisy.


They are quiet good, 28 or 29 degrees with no load, after hours of gaming a heavy game they are perhaps 34 or 35 celcius.
I ordered the TX3 anyway, but im still admitting after a good week of use the haswel boxed cooler is almost inaudible even under load, i didnt expect that, its like i have to open the case and put my ear inside it to even hear a whisper.


----------



## SIDWULF

Ohhh yeah installed it. Overclocked. HAPPY!

what a fine piece of engineering this cooler is. easy enough to install just takes some inspection.


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

I was looking to possibly upgrade my stock Hyper 212+ fan to a dual blue LED setup. The thing is, I don't want something that will be too loud or have bad airflow. I just wanted to know how much of a performance increase I can get out of a 2 fan setup vs 1 (and if maybe it would help decrease noise in my rig). Also, I wanted to know how much of a difference the 3 pin vs 4 pin connector setup is, and what using a splitter would do to that (since my board only supports one four pin connector.).


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> I was looking to possibly upgrade my stock Hyper 212+ fan to a dual blue LED setup. The thing is, I don't want something that will be too loud or have bad airflow. I just wanted to know how much of a performance increase I can get out of a 2 fan setup vs 1 (and if maybe it would help decrease noise in my rig). Also, I wanted to know how much of a difference the 3 pin vs 4 pin connector setup is, and what using a splitter would do to that (since my board only supports one four pin connector.).


Keep in mind I'm no expert.

But unless your motherboard is a rather high-end one and can control 3 pin and 4 pin with voltage change, you can only get full speed with 3 pin fans unless you have a fan controller, with 4 pin being PWM and therefore able to change speed via BIOS or SpeedFan or whatever software you can use.

Now with a splitter, I doubt two fans will draw too much power and from what I have heard, there is no problem hooking 2 fans, 3 pin or 4 pin, via a Y-splitter, to a motherboard fan header. The header will give and receive signal to one fan, and the second merely operates at the speed of the first without giving signal back to the header. (RPM)

Experts please comment and correct on me.

As for performance increase, it's sometimes next to none, and no more than 5C Degrees. I just switched to push/pull right NOW as an experiment with crappy-ish fans. Temps did drop, and I'm doing my utmost best to sync their speed. (They come with individual fan controllers. Sigh)


----------



## dmfree88

Just curious. I have been using arctic silver 5 for probably 5+ years now. Havent heard alot about new thermals and was wondering what everyones favorite TIM is and why? Is arctic silver 5 still top dawg? or is it a bottom feeder now?


----------



## Jeffwx7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> I was looking to possibly upgrade my stock Hyper 212+ fan to a dual blue LED setup. The thing is, I don't want something that will be too loud or have bad airflow. I just wanted to know how much of a performance increase I can get out of a 2 fan setup vs 1 (and if maybe it would help decrease noise in my rig). Also, I wanted to know how much of a difference the 3 pin vs 4 pin connector setup is, and what using a splitter would do to that (since my board only supports one four pin connector.).


I was seriously considering doing the same thing a little while back. After doing a little research on the subject using a Y-cable would be the best option, since the fans should not be independently controlled in push/pull anyway. They always need to stay the same RPM, otherwise performance will actually be worse than a single fan setup. You should use the 4 pin fans, because you certainly don't want both fans blasting away at max RPM. As others have noted here, don't expect a major performance gain in cooling, but you should be able to decrease noise by a noticeable amount.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> I wanted to know how much of a difference the 3 pin vs 4 pin connector setup is, and what using a splitter would do to that (since my board only supports one four pin connector.).


Look at the Tator Tot's input:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1321074/tator-tots-big-quiet-120mm-140mm-fan-round-up/1130#post_19485262

In my opinion for CPU Fan control is better to use PWM instead of voltage control.

3 pin fans often won't start at lower voltage, giving them a limited range of operation. PWM eliminates this as it sends full voltage but uses pulses rather than voltage itself to control fan speed.


----------



## Dire Squirrel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Just curious. I have been using arctic silver 5 for probably 5+ years now. Havent heard alot about new thermals and was wondering what everyones favorite TIM is and why? Is arctic silver 5 still top dawg? or is it a bottom feeder now?


I prefer AC MX-2. It has proven itself through years of use and is still one of the best.
Not a fan of electrically conductive TIM's, so Arctic Silver is pretty far down the list for me.


----------



## dmfree88

I feel like i must be doing something wrong. I am only able to get my fx-8350 to 4.33ghz safely (21.5x). I dont understand why I have heard of others pushing 4.5+ with this cooler. I only have one fan attached but I also have 3 case fans surrounding it and a system temp of just 23c. Anyways I am barely able to make 4.3ghz work. getting up to 57 degrees 100% fan speed after just 6 minutes. it seems to never go up or down after that.. I should be able to push more then that what am i doing wrong? I turned off all power controls and changed multiplier to 21.5x then changed cpu voltage to +0.025 and when i go up to 22x it jumps over 60 degrees then gets too high and keeps going. it stays safe at 21.5 but its much weaker then it should be.. what should i try to do?



Is this proper? I dont know what I am looking at really. Seems like its fluctuating quite a bit


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I feel like i must be doing something wrong. I am only able to get my fx-8350 to 4.33ghz safely (21.5x). I dont understand why I have heard of others pushing 4.5+ with this cooler. I only have one fan attached but I also have 3 case fans surrounding it and a system temp of just 23c. Anyways I am barely able to make 4.3ghz work. getting up to 57 degrees 100% fan speed after just 6 minutes. it seems to never go up or down after that.. I should be able to push more then that what am i doing wrong? I turned off all power controls and changed multiplier to 21.5x then changed cpu voltage to +0.025 and when i go up to 22x it jumps over 60 degrees then gets too high and keeps going. it stays safe at 21.5 but its much weaker then it should be.. what should i try to do?
> 
> 
> 
> Is this proper? I dont know what I am looking at really. Seems like its fluctuating quite a bit


Every chip is different. It could be that you just got a bad chip. It's called the silicon lottery.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Every chip is different. It could be that you just got a bad chip. It's called the silicon lottery.


RMA to amd? sounds timely. It was working without any temperature issues in my msi 970a-g46 never going above 50 degrees at 4.3ghz but that mobo had other major issues. now that its in this UD5 its not working right. I dont know alot about voltages I may have screwed something up. It seems like its not rocket science.

What about the Core Performance Boost?? Also has CPB ratio underneath while enabled. Should I disable this? Not sure what it is not sure what it does. Not sure what is safe to mess with

Post edit: Disabled and it seemed to be better, but not great, still getting up to 56 degrees at 4.3ghz. will try upping it later this evening but the vcore voltage still kinda jumpy.. Is this normal?


----------



## raggne

I just got a Hyper 212X and it seems that I can't screw the nuts onto 3 of the tall stand-offs. The nuts go smoothly onto one of the tall stand-offs as well as onto the short stand-offs (for LGA2011). What is the deal, is this normal? Should I apply force or take it back to the store?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raggne*
> 
> I just got a Hyper 212X and it seems that I can't screw the nuts onto 3 of the tall stand-offs. The nuts go smoothly onto one of the tall stand-offs as well as onto the short stand-offs (for LGA2011). What is the deal, is this normal? Should I apply force or take it back to the store?


do you have it set to the proper spots on the mounting bracket? all 4 screws can be moved to 3 different positions. Make sure yours are on the right setting


----------



## raggne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> do you have it set to the proper spots on the mounting bracket? all 4 screws can be moved to 3 different positions. Make sure yours are on the right setting


Those 3 stand-offs don't go into the nuts even if I try to screw them in directly in my hands without putting them through the bracket. With the other stand-offs I can put the nuts on and off without effort. These 3 seem to have their threading or diameter off, I'm not sure, they just get stuck as soon as I try to put the nuts on. Visually I don't see anything different about them, they just won't go into the damn nuts with any amount of manual pressure. I can try forcing them with tools but I suspect I could damage the threading. If this isn't something typical I'll return the thing.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raggne*
> 
> Those 3 stand-offs don't go into the nuts even if I try to screw them in directly in my hands without putting them through the bracket. With the other stand-offs I can put the nuts on and off without effort. These 3 seem to have their threading or diameter off, I'm not sure, they just get stuck as soon as I try to put the nuts on. Visually I don't see anything different about them, they just won't go into the damn nuts with any amount of manual pressure. I can try forcing them with tools but I suspect I could damage the threading. If this isn't something typical I'll return the thing.


This usually only happens when the screws are not in the correct position. also the standoffs may need to be re-aligned. usually the holes for the original backing plate are bigger then whats required for the hyper 212 backing plate. so it can move around quite a bit. you will want to attempt to align all stand off screws directly in the center of each hole. Also the tensioner screws on the mounting bracket itself have 3 settings per screw. refer to the instructions for your mounting type for which it should be set at each screw has 3 positions and all 4 of them should be at the same position. it sounds like you dont have them in the right position. Ill post a photo in just a moment when i find it here.

Edit: Ill try to find the photo later i have to go back to work but they say here you can just use the original backing plate from a lga2011. Dont even have to use the one provided

http://www.overclock.net/t/1322128/guide-how-to-install-cooler-master-hyper-212-evo-plus-on-sockets-1155-1366-2011-amd

edit 2:
here is a kinda photo:

if you look closely at the screw on the mount there is 3 different settings it can be set to. I am not sure what the 2011 is supposed to be set at but it can either be tight with all screws closes to the middle.. or in the middle on all 4 screws. or all 4 screws on the outside setting. I know amd is all of them set to the middle but I dont remember what the 2011 setting is supposed to be. But there is 3 slots you can slide them into make sure they are correct


----------



## raggne

dmfree88, thanks for the reply. The problem is at an earlier stage where the standoffs need to be placed onto the motherboard.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rinoshea/4502366005/

The photo is not mine, it's just to illustrate what I'm trying to do. I have 3 stand-offs that don't accept the nuts. It's not the backplate because trying to put the nuts onto the stand-offs without the backplate doesn't change anything.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> RMA to amd? sounds timely. It was working without any temperature issues in my msi 970a-g46 never going above 50 degrees at 4.3ghz but that mobo had other major issues. now that its in this UD5 its not working right. I dont know alot about voltages I may have screwed something up. It seems like its not rocket science.
> 
> What about the Core Performance Boost?? Also has CPB ratio underneath while enabled. Should I disable this? Not sure what it is not sure what it does. Not sure what is safe to mess with
> 
> Post edit: Disabled and it seemed to be better, but not great, still getting up to 56 degrees at 4.3ghz. will try upping it later this evening but the vcore voltage still kinda jumpy.. Is this normal?


You have a lot of vdroop. Try checking if your motherboard has LLC options and bump it up one.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hucklebuck*
> 
> You have a lot of vdroop. Try checking if your motherboard has LLC options and bump it up one.


Sorry Im still fairly newbie. LLC?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raggne*
> 
> dmfree88, thanks for the reply. The problem is at an earlier stage where the standoffs need to be placed onto the motherboard.
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/rinoshea/4502366005/
> 
> The photo is not mine, it's just to illustrate what I'm trying to do. I have 3 stand-offs that don't accept the nuts. It's not the backplate because trying to put the nuts onto the stand-offs without the backplate doesn't change anything.


If you check out the link I posted about installations. You dont need the standoffs or the backing plate for your setup. You should be able to install directly onto the original backing plate of your mobo. so even if theres issues with the backing plate or standoffs you shouldnt need it anyways







. I could be wrong but thats what the installation says on the post i mentioned.

I am not 100 percent sure about that but its worth a shot check it out:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1322128/guide-how-to-install-cooler-master-hyper-212-evo-plus-on-sockets-1155-1366-2011-amd

If that doesn't work I have never seen nuts not attach to the standoffs before. seems very strange. Maybe they cut the standoffs wrong (they come with a flat side to slide into the backing plate without moving that may have been misscut?). I really dunno. Seems pretty strange to me ive never seen a nut not fit. I suppose you could try swapping out getting a new one. I would assume that would fix the issue. 3 of them not working just seems crazy.. maybe one or two but 3/4 thats alot of mistakes lol. Anyways good luck hope you figure it out!


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Sorry Im still fairly newbie. LLC?


LLC, or load line control/calibration, is a feature that are available in different forms to help control/stablilize Vdroop/Vdrop if you're getting a lot of that under load. Basically for my Gigabyte board, it makes sure my CPU is getting more Vcore, closer to the asking amount, under load. But for me that does more harm than good in my case. (Crap PSU)

I'm probably wrong here, so if I am, anyone please jump in to correct me.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> LLC, or load line control/calibration, is a feature that are available in different forms to help control/stablilize Vdroop/Vdrop if you're getting a lot of that under load. Basically for my Gigabyte board, it makes sure my CPU is getting more Vcore, closer to the asking amount, under load. But for me that does more harm than good in my case. (Crap PSU)
> 
> I'm probably wrong here, so if I am, anyone please jump in to correct me.


I set it to extreme prior to doing the above test. I had seen this help others in the past figured it would help me.. should i set it back to auto or whatever it was at default? Or is extreme most likely to help? I am pretty sure thats the setting i changed i will check later when i get off work but im pretty sure i already adjusted it when i disabled CPB


----------



## raggne

I took mine back to the store and had it replaced. The new cooler has stand-offs that screw into the nuts just fine. The other one was just bad.


----------



## Professional

Well, you all scaring me about how functionality of this cooler, i am not sure if i must worry, but i will make sure that this cooler shouldn't get in trouble in the rig, it is in the rig for my kids, so i must keep them using stock speed and lower voltages and no OC, i really don't know what they may do if they never know what is OC and keep using/playing with the rig without watching anything and then sudden something bad will happen.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I set it to extreme prior to doing the above test. I had seen this help others in the past figured it would help me.. should i set it back to auto or whatever it was at default? Or is extreme most likely to help? I am pretty sure thats the setting i changed i will check later when i get off work but im pretty sure i already adjusted it when i disabled CPB


Try to stress test and idle it with auto/extreme and see the voltage/speed difference. If the vdroop/vdrop isn't too bad under normal/regular/auto (don't know the settings on your bios), then maybe extreme could be doing you harm and you won't know it.

Anyway, all I'm saying is test under each and see what you get.







Sorry for going off topic guys.


----------



## hucklebuck

It's in the BIOS. It means Load Line Calibration. It is a setting that adjusts the voltage when under load.


----------



## AblueXKRS

hai guys

I'm considering doing some pretty dumb things with my computer given some stuff I've just learned, so I was wondering:

Does anyone know how the Hyper212 competes with the H100? (In terms of temps and noise levels)

I'm considering replacing my H100 with a 212 to free up the H100 for what can only be described as shenanigans.


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I set it to extreme prior to doing the above test. I had seen this help others in the past figured it would help me.. should i set it back to auto or whatever it was at default? Or is extreme most likely to help? I am pretty sure thats the setting i changed i will check later when i get off work but im pretty sure i already adjusted it when i disabled CPB


See what voltage you have set in the bios, and then run a stress testing program and see if your voltage goes down. Use a monitoring program like HWiNFO64 to check voltages. Then adjust LLC to make the voltage the same whether under load or just idle.


----------



## sooyong94

My Hyper 212 Evo stock fans are making some kind of clicking noise when the RPMs are ramped up... Should I replace the fan with aftermarket ones?


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sooyong94*
> 
> My Hyper 212 Evo stock fans are making some kind of clicking noise when the RPMs are ramped up... Should I replace the fan with aftermarket ones?


Same thing happened to me before and I thought it was broken.

But for me, it was just the wire getting clipped by the fan blades hence making a noise when it revs up. Check the cable/wire at the back of the fan is properly clipped in the place it should be and not getting in the way of the blades. Hope this helps.


----------



## dmfree88

I think I might be having issues with my cooler. i think everytime i put the tim on then i go to screw in the stupid screws and the heatsink rotates back and forth like 10 times while im tightening down. then by the time im done i think the tim is spread un-even and pushed to the side. because after like a week my temperatures dont handle stress tests anymore. I even hooked my enermax silencer tb 1000 rpm case fan on the other side pulling. I still get up to unsafe temps in less then 5 minutes at 4.5ghz.. just last week it was stable for more then an hour and a half at the same tests less then 50 degrees constant.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I think I might be having issues with my cooler. i think everytime i put the tim on then i go to screw in the stupid screws and the heatsink rotates back and forth like 10 times while im tightening down. then by the time im done i think the tim is spread un-even and pushed to the side. because after like a week my temperatures dont handle stress tests anymore. I even hooked my enermax silencer tb 1000 rpm case fan on the other side pulling. I still get up to unsafe temps in less then 5 minutes at 4.5ghz.. just last week it was stable for more then an hour and a half at the same tests less then 50 degrees constant.


If it had good temps, why did you decide to reseat it, may I ask? Maybe the weather changed drastically in the area due to Summer, hence the higher temps? I know for me that's the case, that's why I can't fold anymore this Summer, otherwise I would cook in my tiny room.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> If it had good temps, why did you decide to reseat it, may I ask? Maybe the weather changed drastically in the area due to Summer, hence the higher temps? I know for me that's the case, that's why I can't fold anymore this Summer, otherwise I would cook in my tiny room.


I havent reseated it since this issues started. It was fine for about a week or two, then i went to test it again just to verify tim had settled well and it apparently hasnt . but I have reseated the cpu twice now total since ive owned it and everytime i have due to the type of mount i dont have a 2 foot screwdriver to reach without twisting the heatsink everytime. Ontop of that even when its fully seated, it still rotates slightly if touched so its extremely hard to put together without movement. Which i think is causing the tim to overspread. But you cant put the fan on until after you screw it in so this also causes it to rotate aswell. Its just a pain it barely moves but just enough back and forth to irritate me and possibly cause this issue. I havent had time to re-seat it again but I am going to try extremely delicately and see what happens.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I havent reseated it since this issues started. It was fine for about a week or two, then i went to test it again just to verify tim had settled well and it apparently hasnt . but I have reseated the cpu twice now total since ive owned it and everytime i have due to the type of mount i dont have a 2 foot screwdriver to reach without twisting the heatsink everytime. Ontop of that even when its fully seated, it still rotates slightly if touched so its extremely hard to put together without movement. Which i think is causing the tim to overspread. But you cant put the fan on until after you screw it in so this also causes it to rotate aswell. Its just a pain it barely moves but just enough back and forth to irritate me and possibly cause this issue. I havent had time to re-seat it again but I am going to try extremely delicately and see what happens.


Sorry to hear your troubles man. I am not sure why, but my 212 Evo has not been able to spin or rotate at all since the day I screw it down. Even if I use force, the fins bend before I could rotate it. :/

I'll reseat mine some other time. Might be selling this rig soon so I CBA right now.

Is it an Evo you have? I have an Evo and used a normal small pea in centre method, let the weight spread it, if it tilted too much, I would balance it. Then I let it set for a minute, then mount the brackets. Of course screwing the screws tighter in criss cross fashion to balance the pressure. (top left screw, then bottom right and etc, applying only a few rotations to the screws at a time.) But I'm sure that's what you've been doing anyway. Just a thought though.


----------



## maneil99

If you guys could check out my thread maybe let me know what you guys think

http://www.overclock.net/t/1409949/212-fans-keep-dying-need-help-with-replacement


----------



## elendrill

I am really happy with my 212 EVO. It keeps my 2500k bellow 65C all the time @ 4.3Ghz


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Sorry to hear your troubles man. I am not sure why, but my 212 Evo has not been able to spin or rotate at all since the day I screw it down. Even if I use force, the fins bend before I could rotate it. :/
> 
> I'll reseat mine some other time. Might be selling this rig soon so I CBA right now.
> 
> Is it an Evo you have? I have an Evo and used a normal small pea in centre method, let the weight spread it, if it tilted too much, I would balance it. Then I let it set for a minute, then mount the brackets. Of course screwing the screws tighter in criss cross fashion to balance the pressure. (top left screw, then bottom right and etc, applying only a few rotations to the screws at a time.) But I'm sure that's what you've been doing anyway. Just a thought though.


I re-set it and it was a little one sided. The heat sink head spread it to one side so only a little over 3/4 of the cpu was covered and sadly it was already fairly dried, not impressed with antec nano-diamond. So I put arctic silver 5 on it and im fairly certain it spread evenly this time. Kept everything as still as possible, aligned properly and screwed down the screws without movement. Then when I put the fans on it did rotate slightly a couple times but very minimal compared to the first few times ive put it together.

Anyways it went together fine and I kept it flat and made sure it spread right, But I am still experiencing basically the same temperatures. After just 2.5 minutes i hit 60 degrees. Just over a week ago it never went above 50 in an hour and a half. What could have happened? I havent been gaming just working so the cpu has never been stressed so theres no chance for it to have overheated while it was not spread evenly. No settings have been changed other then ram timings(changed to manual/stock settings 9/9/9/24). I dont see how that could possibly effect it. What could be wrong?

heres last week:


and heres this week:


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I re-set it and it was a little one sided. The heat sink head spread it to one side so only a little over 3/4 of the cpu was covered and sadly it was already fairly dried, not impressed with antec nano-diamond. So I put arctic silver 5 on it and im fairly certain it spread evenly this time. Kept everything as still as possible, aligned properly and screwed down the screws without movement. Then when I put the fans on it did rotate slightly a couple times but very minimal compared to the first few times ive put it together.
> 
> Anyways it went together fine and I kept it flat and made sure it spread right, But I am still experiencing basically the same temperatures. After just 2.5 minutes i hit 60 degrees. Just over a week ago it never went above 50 in an hour and a half. What could have happened? I havent been gaming just working so the cpu has never been stressed so theres no chance for it to have overheated while it was not spread evenly. No settings have been changed other then ram timings(changed to manual/stock settings 9/9/9/24). I dont see how that could possibly effect it. What could be wrong?
> 
> heres last week:
> 
> 
> and heres this week:


I honestly can't think of anything else other than climate/weather change mate. Sorry. :/


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> I honestly can't think of anything else other than climate/weather change mate. Sorry. :/


There hasnt been a weather change.. my tests were during 70 degree (F) weather, both times, the 1 hour 20 minute test was mid day on a somewhat colder day then it got hotter this week and i did that test at the same temperature at 1 am 70 degrees. might have been even cooler it felt cold in here lots of cold air movin through. It definetly is not 10 degree (C) temp change

post thought: also i had to use small data sets to even last for a couple minutes, medium data was worse. theres certainly some sort of issue, i dont understand what it could possibly be tho









EDIT:
Nevermind i fixed it, Apparently having cpu cores set to manual and enabling all 8 cores was somehow causing the issue. i set back to auto and never reached 50 degrees. I dont know how that could have possibly done it but it seems to be better:


----------



## Peanuts4

how do you guys find the stock paste that comes with these coolers?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> how do you guys find the stock paste that comes with these coolers?


I find it still in the bag next to the rest of the spare parts. Unused and unwanted









This seems to be the most favored paste:
http://www.overclock.net/products/arctic-cooling-mx-2-thermal-compound

I still use arctic silver 5 but its because I have alot of it laying around (if your careful its good paste but it is semi-conductive and must be spread safely). Wasn't impressed with antec's nano-diamond paste nor with the stock paste that seems to come with every cooler (cooler master) both have similar fast drying results. Id say the mx-2 or something similar would be best though


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> how do you guys find the stock paste that comes with these coolers?


i've used it since i got the cooler and it's been all fine and dandy for me. Apparently its only a couple of degrees difference between stock and MX-4 or something similar.


----------



## neo0031

Used it since day one. Has not seen a need to reseat or anything. Good paste. If it's a couple of degrees you're after, then instead of getting different TIM, maybe a higher budget cooler/fans are the solution IMO.


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I find it still in the bag next to the rest of the spare parts. Unused and unwanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This seems to be the most favored paste:
> http://www.overclock.net/products/arctic-cooling-mx-2-thermal-compound
> 
> I still use arctic silver 5 but its because I have alot of it laying around (if your careful its good paste but it is semi-conductive and must be spread safely). Wasn't impressed with antec's nano-diamond paste nor with the stock paste that seems to come with every cooler (cooler master) both have similar fast drying results. Id say the mx-2 or something similar would be best though


I've used AS5 as well I wouldn't worry too much
http://www.overclock.net/t/140813/artic-silver-5-is-not-electrically-conductive/40_20


----------



## oswald3k

New member to the club here. Hello to everyone involed in providing helpfull tips about the CM Hyper 212









My specs:
3570K @ 4.2GHz, vcore at load hits 1.200-1.216V,
CM Hyper 212 EVO with Corsair SP120 Performance Edition in push
CM N200 Case with 3 intakes (2x front, 1x top) with rear kept open

So I installed the cooler using provided TIM and just swapped the CM fan for a Corsair SP120.

After 1h of prime95:
- all 4 cores hit about 75ºC (167.ºF).
- room temp is 30ºC (86ºF)

Idle (that's 1600MHz):
- all 4 cores stay aroound high 30s to lowe 40s
- room temp is 30ºC (86ºF)

Question: Doesn't this seem to high for you guys?


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oswald3k*
> 
> New member to the club here. Hello to everyone involed in providing helpfull tips about the CM Hyper 212
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My specs:
> 3570K @ 4.2GHz, vcore at load hits 1.200-1.216V,
> CM Hyper 212 EVO with Corsair SP120 Performance Edition in push
> CM N200 Case with 3 intakes (2x front, 1x top) with rear kept open
> 
> So I installed the cooler using provided TIM and just swapped the CM fan for a Corsair SP120.
> 
> After 1h of prime95:
> - all 4 cores hit about 75ºC (167.ºF).
> - room temp is 30ºC (86ºF)
> 
> Idle (that's 1600MHz):
> - all 4 cores stay aroound high 30s to lowe 40s
> - room temp is 30ºC (86ºF)
> 
> Question: Doesn't this seem to high for you guys?


With the ambient temp that high, these temps look great IMO.


----------



## dougb62

I agree. Those temps are nearly amazing with the ambient you have there.


----------



## Peanuts4

How noisy is the sp120?


----------



## oswald3k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> How noisy is the sp120?


At 100% it gives about 2300RPM which is audible from 1m during day time with mild traffic outside the window.
My MB controlls its speed and 98% of the time it sits around 1300-1500RPM which is almost dead silent.

Update:
I now have the SP120 at 1800RPM (80% of its power) and it's audible only if you put your ear to it, and then you can only hear air beiing pushed through the fins. Temps stayed the same. Super happy


----------



## dmfree88

my hyper 212 isnt giving me the results i had hoped for.

Max stable-stable OC on 8350: 4.3ghz vcore 1.38-1.4

I can push it higher if I dont mind being unstable with a large vdroop (lowering LLC gives me more room)

Really kinda sad at its performance. using stock fan push + extra case fan on pull (enermax tb silencer 1500rpm nothing special)

Going to try to upgrade the fans in hopes that I can get better numbers:



Maxing out at 57.4 at only 4.3ghz.. I thought I was getting a budget cooler with some POWER, very dissappointed in the abilities. Will try new fans when i can afford them, hopefully the heatsink itself will suffice with new fans.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> my hyper 212 isnt giving me the results i had hoped for.
> 
> Max stable-stable OC on 8350: 4.3ghz vcore 1.38-1.4
> 
> I can push it higher if I dont mind being unstable with a large vdroop (lowering LLC gives me more room)
> 
> Really kinda sad at its performance. using stock fan push + extra case fan on pull (enermax tb silencer 1500rpm nothing special)
> 
> Going to try to upgrade the fans in hopes that I can get better numbers:
> 
> 
> 
> Maxing out at 57.4 at only 4.3ghz.. I thought I was getting a budget cooler with some POWER, very dissappointed in the abilities. Will try new fans when i can afford them, hopefully the heatsink itself will suffice with new fans.


You are trying to cool an eight-core power-hungry monster.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> my hyper 212 isnt giving me the results i had hoped for.
> 
> Max stable-stable OC on 8350: 4.3ghz vcore 1.38-1.4
> 
> I can push it higher if I dont mind being unstable with a large vdroop (lowering LLC gives me more room)
> 
> Really kinda sad at its performance. using stock fan push + extra case fan on pull (enermax tb silencer 1500rpm nothing special)
> 
> Going to try to upgrade the fans in hopes that I can get better numbers:
> 
> 
> 
> Maxing out at 57.4 at only 4.3ghz.. I thought I was getting a budget cooler with some POWER, very dissappointed in the abilities. Will try new fans when i can afford them, hopefully the heatsink itself will suffice with new fans.


So much fail...


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> my hyper 212 isnt giving me the results i had hoped for.
> 
> Max stable-stable OC on 8350: 4.3ghz vcore 1.38-1.4
> 
> I can push it higher if I dont mind being unstable with a large vdroop (lowering LLC gives me more room)
> 
> Really kinda sad at its performance. using stock fan push + extra case fan on pull (enermax tb silencer 1500rpm nothing special)
> 
> Going to try to upgrade the fans in hopes that I can get better numbers:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maxing out at 57.4 at only 4.3ghz.. I thought I was getting a budget cooler with some POWER, very dissappointed in the abilities. Will try new fans when i can afford them, hopefully the heatsink itself will suffice with new fans.


You can't expect a mid-range cooler to cool a seriously OC'ed 8350.








You want to run with the big dogs you need a better performing dog.. err.. I mean cooler.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> my hyper 212 isnt giving me the results i had hoped for.
> 
> Max stable-stable OC on 8350: 4.3ghz vcore 1.38-1.4
> 
> I can push it higher if I dont mind being unstable with a large vdroop (lowering LLC gives me more room)
> 
> Really kinda sad at its performance. using stock fan push + extra case fan on pull (enermax tb silencer 1500rpm nothing special)
> 
> Going to try to upgrade the fans in hopes that I can get better numbers:
> 
> 
> 
> Maxing out at 57.4 at only 4.3ghz.. I thought I was getting a budget cooler with some POWER, very dissappointed in the abilities. Will try new fans when i can afford them, hopefully the heatsink itself will suffice with new fans.


Man I hate to break it to you. But the EVO is starting to show its age. According to CoolerMaster's website the EVO can dissipate a max of 180w. If I am not mistaken, your FX is probably really close to that. If you consider that, then the EVO is not doing to bad. Remember that processor power consumption is directly proportional to clock speed and voltage. So if you are running about 4.4 and you are running at 1.4v, then you will be doing around 160-180w already. I was impressed by the EVO. But I was using a quad core. An eight core... I think you are asking a bit much of the little cooler that could. Sorry bro....


----------



## Buxty

Maybe its just a not so good overclocking chip dude. My FX series runs at 4.3Ghz on 1.375v and it has loaaads of headroom, but that is push/pull if that makes a difference.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> Maybe its just a not so good overclocking chip dude. My FX series runs at 4.3Ghz on 1.375v and it has loaaads of headroom, but that is push/pull if that makes a difference.


Don't give him any ideas dude lol. He should aim at a higher end air cooler or AIO like H100i to OC higher with that particular chip.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Don't give him any ideas dude lol. He should aim at a higher end air cooler or AIO like H100i to OC higher with that particular chip.


Yeah its not a great idea to use a Hyper if your temps don't leave much of a headroom for use 24/7. Under [email protected] mine never exceeds around 52 degrees under full load for a few hours.


----------



## neo0031

It's working fine for me too. But to go for an Evo (recently like the user in question) and then spend as much as the cooler on a pair of decent fans on them seems a bit counter productive, budget wise. Phanteks ph-tc14pe would have been better for him methinks.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> It's working fine for me too. But to go for an Evo (recently like the user in question) and then spend as much as the cooler on a pair of decent fans on them seems a bit counter productive, budget wise. Phanteks ph-tc14pe would have been better for him methinks.


I 100% agree. I wanted the noctua d14, but I dont have the case room for it. The evo is as tall as it gets and seemed like the best bang for buck at that size. I dont mind spending the extra on decent fans if the heatsink itself is decent. I just wasn't sure if thats going to be worth it or not either. Would getting 2 decent fans to attach to it give it enough headroom to make 4.5 stable? I mean IBT avx + p95 stable, not occt I am occt stable at 4.5ghz now. Obviously its too late now I already spent the money on the heatsink so i just need to know if its worth upgrading? Or is there another heatsink and dual fan combo thats will produce better results thats the same size or smaller? and still within reasonable price range vs just getting 2 good fans?

Like if I went nuts and put two of these on it:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001

Would that be comparable to:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608014

Or am I still just wasting my time xD, I dont know what is good that will fit :/ other then water, but I dont want something with a water pump that i have to replace every 6 months to a year. I would prefer something that will last


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I 100% agree. I wanted the noctua d14, but I dont have the case room for it. The evo is as tall as it gets and seemed like the best bang for buck at that size. I dont mind spending the extra on decent fans if the heatsink itself is decent. I just wasn't sure if thats going to be worth it or not either. Would getting 2 decent fans to attach to it give it enough headroom to make 4.5 stable? I mean IBT avx + p95 stable, not occt I am occt stable at 4.5ghz now. Obviously its too late now I already spent the money on the heatsink so i just need to know if its worth upgrading? Or is there another heatsink and dual fan combo thats will produce better results thats the same size or smaller? and still within reasonable price range vs just getting 2 good fans?
> 
> Like if I went nuts and put two of these on it:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835213001
> 
> Would that be comparable to:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608014
> 
> Or am I still just wasting my time xD, I dont know what is good that will fit :/ other then water, but I dont want something with a water pump that i have to replace every 6 months to a year. I would prefer something that will last


Are you sure those DELTAS won't be as loud as an... ACTUAL aeroplane? lol

Personally, I don't care how well Noctuas can perform. The looks alone is a big no no from the start.

I heard people here on OCN love the Scythe fans. Check them out? Otherwise, go for the fanboy look (that I'd love to go for) with 2 Corsair SP120s, maybe PWM version with a Y splitter.


----------



## vonss

I still say that paying almost (if not more) money for the fans then for a BUDGET Cooler itself is just plain dumb.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I still say that paying almost (if not more) money for the fans then for a BUDGET Cooler itself is just plain dumb.


this has already been said, but the budget cooler itself isnt a bad heatsink from my understandings (plus I already bought it). Is there another one that will fit my case same size or smaller thats better? That doesnt cost more then it would to get as good as quality as i would just buying 2 good fans?


----------



## neo0031

Height issue really limits your choices... good luck.

EDIT: Maybe the Megahalems with a couple of awesome looking fans? I think that is similar height to the Evo, if not shorter.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah but then I might aswell get a h100 when its on sale, gonna be more expensive in the end. What do you guys think of these fans:

CF-V12HP

800rpm - 70cfm
1500rpm (max) - 119cfm
static pressure - 2.2
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-553-002&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2#scrollFullInfo
supposedly 300k hours lifetime with hyrdo-dynamic bearing. seems to out-perform the SP120 by almost 2x and its rated to only a 18dba noise level (sp120 is 35dba). On top of that its fairly well priced, still cost less then $30 for both fans. Not familiar with the brand but its got alot of ratings on new egg so its fairly popular. Anyone have any experience with Cougar?

Will doing this see any large temperature differences? Possibly pushing me to my 4.5ghz goal?


----------



## neo0031

I have a Cougar. Even though it is a good fan, I doubt it'll push you to 4.5. (Personal comparison with Evo's stock XtraFlo) With the hot weather now, personally I'm stuck at same temps with these fans. A few months earlier these Cougars gave me quite a few degrees cooler though. So it may be ok for your system.

Also, it's not that much quieter in comparison at max RPM.

Also, please read the newegg reviews and my endless rant on OCN about this fan. It's good, but chances are by and large that you get the batch with the PWM problem. Meaning, it'll function perfectly as a fan, but it'll give you an endless annoying PWM WHINE!!!!!!!!!!! between 30% to 80% RPM. Unless you get the newest batch. Are you feeling lucky?


----------



## holiday121

Could be a dumb question.

But for the the big silver block do I want to face the fans blowing cold air against or of have them pulling heat off it?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiday121*
> 
> Could be a dumb question.
> 
> But for the the big silver block do I want to face the fans blowing cold air against or of have them pulling heat off it?


depends on your opinion, this is reffered to as either Push or Pull. If you have 2 fans then generally the best for your fans lifetime would be one push one pull. Some do both push both pull, but I think the general use is one push one pull. if you just have one usually just push (one fan blowing air into the cooler)


----------



## holiday121

Hmmm I have a side exhaust out. So playing then both blowing into that direction is a safe bet then


----------



## dmfree88

you can do it anyway you prefer, it seems to be that most do it with one blowing in and one pulling out


----------



## Peanuts4

Not sure how many coolers I've used but never had this much of an issue with one. Can someone tell me if this is normal with this thing? So I am guessing I am going to have to unmount my entire motherboard from the case to adjust these stupid mounting screws which seemed like they went in straight to me. I am posting pictures to show my problem and no I am not installing the bracket without the cooler this is just a visual to show my issue.

It seems as though the screws will line up fine except for a couple. Primarily one. The only way for me to mount it as you can see in picture 2 is to essentially install it at an angle. This drives me crazy because I made sure my black plate was installed flush, I even had help. So is this normal that one of these screws you have to essentially install it at an angle and hope long term it doesn't crack anything or do I just need to unmount my mobo and try and realign these mounting screws?

Bottom left screw not lining up properly
http://s52.photobucket.com/user/newhouse101_2006/media/IMG_0715.jpg.html

Diaganal screw mount
http://s52.photobucket.com/user/newhouse101_2006/media/IMG_0722.jpg.html


----------



## axel000

I thought I had that issue too but you know what, its not the cooler mount or the motherboard. You are just doing it wrong :

1) Unscrew what you have done
2) Rotate the assembly 90 degrees in either direction
3) Screw it back in as follows

1 2

3 4

a) 2 rotations screw 1
b) 2 rotations screw 4
c) 2 rotations screw 2
d) 2 rotations screw 3
e) back to a
d) finish when it is tight


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axel000*
> 
> I thought I had that issue too but you know what, its not the cooler mount or the motherboard. You are just doing it wrong :
> 
> 1) Unscrew what you have done
> 2) Rotate the assembly 90 degrees in either direction
> 3) Screw it back in as follows
> 
> 1 2
> 3 4


I tried this and all it does it makes a different mount off. You can see now top left is off. If I look at these they all look straight. I might just take a picture and use ms paint to try and figure out which one isn't straight or something cause visually I can't tell.

http://s52.photobucket.com/user/newhouse101_2006/media/IMG_0724-1.jpg.html

To anyone who's going to buy one of these I recommend installing the X bracket to all the mounts then screwing in bolts on the rear of the board. I'm going to do this tomorrow I had enough fun with this tonight.


----------



## dmfree88

I think I see what your issue is. look closely at each screw, all 4 screws have 3 different positions, in order to change between each position must pull screw up and reset in either farthest out, middle or closest to center, I am not sure what the setting is for your specific processor mounting, but mine had to be all 4 screws in the middle. From what I can tell in the picture it looks like atleast one of them is set wrong. I may be wrong by perspective but did you check these?

Also I have had issues lining up the screws (ive now pulled this thing like 5 times) sometimes you gotta kinda lean the screw to get it in there, but still check what your mobo is supposed to be at it shows on in the instructions.

Also if all else fails make sure that all 4 posts are lined up in the center of the screw holes. I noticed mine could slide around a little bit because the backing plate posts are smaller then stock (for me anyways, this probably only effects alignment on processor).


----------



## JJ1217

I don't know if OCing drastically increases temps for CPU's, but my Hyper 212 keeps my i5 3550 down to around 35 degrees max under load. And this is with a low RPM Artic Cooling F12 TC (Which barely spins because it uses a temp sensor to control how fast it spins, voltage control does nothing to its RPM, so voltage control is rendered useless).

On hot days I max out at around 40 degrees.


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I think I see what your issue is. look closely at each screw, all 4 screws have 3 different positions, in order to change between each position must pull screw up and reset in either farthest out, middle or closest to center, I am not sure what the setting is for your specific processor mounting, but mine had to be all 4 screws in the middle. From what I can tell in the picture it looks like atleast one of them is set wrong. I may be wrong by perspective but did you check these?
> 
> Also I have had issues lining up the screws (ive now pulled this thing like 5 times) sometimes you gotta kinda lean the screw to get it in there, but still check what your mobo is supposed to be at it shows on in the instructions.
> 
> Also if all else fails make sure that all 4 posts are lined up in the center of the screw holes. I noticed mine could slide around a little bit because the backing plate posts are smaller then stock (for me anyways, this probably only effects alignment on processor).


By leaning I feel like I can put a screw in at an angle but long term I can't imagine what is good. Not sure how well I can reseat the screws well considering they don't wiggle a whole ton in those holes. All the screws are in the closest position where it says to put 1155's which is the same for haswell. But if I moved one to the farthest knotch this would this be bad?

Anyone use 3 knotches and one far knotch for the spring screws? How bad would doing this be?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> By leaning I feel like I can put a screw in at an angle but long term I can't imagine what is good. Not sure how well I can reseat the screws well considering they don't wiggle a whole ton in those holes. All the screws are in the closest position where it says to put 1155's which is the same for haswell. But if I moved one to the farthest knotch this would this be bad?
> 
> Anyone use 3 knotches and one far knotch for the spring screws? How bad would doing this be?


In case of LGA 1150/1155/1156, You use the *closest* position for all 4 screws.









EDIT: I checked mine just to make sure.

EDIT 2: Here is a pic from the guide:


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> In case of LGA 1150/1155/1156, You use the *closest* position for all 4 screws.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I checked mine just to make sure.
> 
> EDIT 2: Here is a pic from the guide:


Oh this I know but since they are not lining up it's like I can install a screw semi-diagonally. I'm guessing if I had one of the 3 screws in the outward position I would be creating inconsistent weight on my processor. Do all of your screw line up perfectly straight? I though all of the round deals that I screwed into the back of my motherboard were perfectly straight too but I'm wrong I guess.

lastly the stupid screw in the middle of the X bracket do you guys screw that down or leave it hight? The manual does not say anything about adjusting it.


----------



## dmfree88

I am sure if you put one screw to the outside it shouldnt cause much issues with pressure applied, If its not working maybe try all 4 in the center position? just to make it so its even across the board? If that doesn't work then maybe as you say do 3 with 1 out further. I dont see why this would hurt at all. The middle screw, some claim you should leave this loose while screwing in the other 4 screws, then tighten the center screw. This can help with alignment, but you do want it snug when your done and I never messed with it much.

Also I have leaned the screws to put them in and it looks like they are going in diagnally, but when the screw starts to sink in I have noticed the mount will move over a little bit and line up right. So if it is off by just a little bit, try to force it (just a little bit) and see if it lines up after getting screw to screw in a bit. If not then I would move the screw to the outside position, if it lines up it lines up, should work fine even with one being off-set


----------



## Khaled G

I've rechecked the pic you posted earlier, I think you should set the screws to the middle position, not the inner ones used in case of socket 1155.


----------



## Peanuts4

I re-mounted again with help (observer) because seriously for whatever reason this thing and I do not get along one bit. I removed the mobo, I attached the X bracket to the thick mounting things, seated them in the mobo and then attached the nuts on the back. I then attached the cooler how well it's seated I have no idea at this point to be honest I find it hard to see but I think fairly straight, then attached the spring screws again.

The irony being that I bolted this thing on with the x bracket so everything would sit flush but it doesn't so I'm gonna take what I can get at this point and test my temps when this thing is running and hopefully not have to re-mount this thing again. In terms of the the screws 3 of the 4 are in the closest position one migrated to the middle position. I really dislike how much the screws can essentially freely move on this cooler... I rather pay $5 more to have a specific locked bracket. I prefer more of a XP90 style mounting if anyone remember these coolers cause once that thing is on it's not moving anywhere. I have a 1150 board but I believe 1150 is compatible unless I'm wrong but the instructions didn't have 1150 so I am guessing 1155 was correct.


----------



## lee_hacken

anyone has a i7 4770k?
Is this a normal temp for this cpu?
@3.5 GHz (stock)
idle 42~45C
load 85~87C
I try to re-seat the heat sink 2 times, but the temp still the same
I have the 212 plus with 1 stock fan


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee_hacken*
> 
> anyone has a i7 4770k?
> Is this a normal temp for this cpu?
> @3.5 GHz (stock)
> idle 42~45C
> load 85~87C
> I try to re-seat the heat sink 2 times, but the temp still the same
> I have the 212 plus with 1 stock fan


Even though those temps look quite toasty, I would say it's not surprising for a few reasons.

1. It's a case of a higher end CPU with a budget cooler almost a tenth of the cost of the CPU. Meaning, it can only give you so much.

2. It's a Haswell i7. Chances are the TIM with in the IHS has a bad case of "needing to be delided or watercool me or BOTH". Haswell has been known to be hotter and not as OC friendly as previous generations both for Intel not fixing the TIM issue and Haswell running even warmer.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Even though those temps look quite toasty, I would say it's not surprising for a few reasons.
> 
> 1. It's a case of a higher end CPU with a budget cooler almost a tenth of the cost of the CPU. Meaning, it can only give you so much.
> 
> 2. It's a Haswell i7. Chances are the TIM with in the IHS has a bad case of "needing to be delided or watercool me or BOTH". Haswell has been known to be hotter and not as OC friendly as previous generations both for Intel not fixing the TIM issue and Haswell running even warmer.


Its not actually the TIM itself. its the gap they left in there between the tim and the lid, they put it together wrong. but otherwise im sure your right the hyper 212 doesnt handle my fx-8350 well either.


----------



## maneil99

So I had my default 212 fan and heatsink mounted in an upright position ( vertical) the bearing have started after a month and a half sound like they were getting loose ( this is my 2nd replacement, first one did the same ) if I rotate the heatsink to its proper position will it stop?

Aslo I got a 2nd fan and I am running push/pull, what fan speeds will compare to having a single fan 100%?


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Its not actually the TIM itself. its the gap they left in there between the tim and the lid, they put it together wrong. but otherwise im sure your right the hyper 212 doesnt handle my fx-8350 well either.


Yes I know that. I thought that was made clear when I said " a bad case of needing to delid" etc. Sorry if I worded this strangely.


----------



## jinkazama000

i recently installed an evo 212 with push pull and got sp120 on both im getting these temps is this fine?


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jinkazama000*
> 
> i recently installed an evo 212 with push pull and got sp120 on both im getting these temps is this fine?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Unless I'm mistaken in reading this, this is idle temps, correct? If so, it means nothing if we don't know your load temperatures/ambient temps.


----------



## maneil99

I just installed a second fan and finally rotated my heatsink to proper position, not seeing much of a a difference, might be because its hotter ambient though.


----------



## jinkazama000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Unless I'm mistaken in reading this, this is idle temps, correct? If so, it means nothing if we don't know your load temperatures/ambient temps.


my load temps are 64-67c


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jinkazama000*
> 
> my load temps are 64-67c


Seems fairly reasonable for an I7. Power hungry processor with a not so big cooler. Dont worry I did the same thing (See sig). Not sure what your safe temp range is but in an I7 Id imagine its pretty close to normal temps with the 212


----------



## jinkazama000

thanks everybody just checked the temps now i m getting lower temps on idle i think the more i wait its get lower because i just installed hyper 212 evo 2 days ago


----------



## dmfree88

idle temps are pretty inaccurate anyways. My pc idles as low as 12* on a cool day, thats not even possible to achieve.

here it is hitting as low as 15 on a hot day, still impossible:


Your I7 may be more accurate though, not sure


----------



## jinkazama000

oh wow thats great i heard ivy bridge's get hot fast also so i think im fine with 65 on high load i just dont want 80+


----------



## william90

Hi
i've a passive cooler, hypermaster Z600, as the name indicates it doesn't need fan but i did push/pull it
now after playing 4/5 hours AC3 with full setting it gave me 52c
i was wondering if I'd bought a hyper212evo what it would gave me
i've a 8350

has anyone here played recent games with it for hours? preferably on 8350


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *william90*
> 
> Hi
> i've a passive cooler, hypermaster Z600, as the name indicates it doesn't need fan but i did push/pull it
> now after playing 4/5 hours AC3 with full setting it gave me 52c
> i was wondering if I'd bought a hyper212evo what it would gave me
> i've a 8350
> 
> has anyone here played recent games with it for hours? preferably on 8350


I havent really put it to a solid gaming test yet, I was able to overclock to 4.3ghz p95/ibt avx stable. Not able to get a big overclock, but i did play some Dragon Age: Origins and never reached 45 degrees. Actually I dont think it even reached 40 degrees i forget now though.

Its an ok cooler, not the best for a power hungry 8350 like yours and mine. I am soon going to replace my 212 with a Noctua NH-D14 (both the same height). If you plan on overclocking at all I would not recommend the 212. If your just looking for stock power, then it will work great for you.


----------



## tensionz

Love mine, can't wait to add a second fan to it.


----------



## dmfree88

your not using an 8350, probably overclocks a phenom II higher then my 8350 will go. But the heat dissipation of the 212 is not enough to handle the 8350 during overclock (more then just a little bit)


----------



## Peanuts4

Hey guys, I have the 212 EVO. Can you tell me for a i5 4670k (stock speeds) is 35C normal? I don't want to OC unless I know my cooler is functioning properly.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> Hey guys, I have the 212 EVO. Can you tell me for a i5 4670k (stock speeds) is 35C normal? I don't want to OC unless I know my cooler is functioning properly.


Is that under load? Do remember to write down your sig rig


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> Hey guys, I have the 212 EVO. Can you tell me for a i5 4670k (stock speeds) is 35C normal? I don't want to OC unless I know my cooler is functioning properly.


Also - what's your ambient temp?


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Also - what's your ambient temp?


It's in the mid 70's I think in this room right now.

All that matters I would guess:
i5 4670k stock
212 evo
ud4h
7950
High current pro 750W
Lian Li A05N Case


----------



## jinkazama000

i have 35-40c on idle its normal just make sure its not higher on load around 80*C+ max i get about 55C when playing crysis 3 on high everything and around 65C on prime


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> It's in the mid 70's I think in this room right now.
> 
> All that matters I would guess:
> i5 4670k stock
> 212 evo
> ud4h
> 7950
> High current pro 750W
> Lian Li A05N Case


Are you running under load? Idle temps arent as accurate as load temps. You honestly probably arent going to be able to take the 4670 too far probably 4.0-4.3ghz around 1.2v if your lucky. Use IBT AVX you can download from here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club
On page one under additional software
(this is not the normal IBT although it looks the same)
Set to very high and run to test how high the temps get.

Use a program like hwinfo64 to monitor temps(of course keep under tjmax), we like screenshots







:
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/hwinfo64_download.html

Every chip is different so you might have slightly different results then others but if you get the max temp from ibt avx on very high people with have something to compare to









Also prime95 is good for stability testing, run long term to verify full stability:
http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/

If any of the workers fail you are unstable


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Are you running under load? Idle temps arent as accurate as load temps. You honestly probably arent going to be able to take the 4670 too far probably 4.0-4.3ghz around 1.2v if your lucky. Use IBT AVX you can download from here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club
> On page one under additional software
> (this is not the normal IBT although it looks the same)
> Set to very high and run to test how high the temps get.
> 
> Use a program like hwinfo64 to monitor temps(of course keep under tjmax), we like screenshots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/hwinfo64_download.html
> 
> Every chip is different so you might have slightly different results then others but if you get the max temp from ibt avx on very high people with have something to compare to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also prime95 is good for stability testing, run long term to verify full stability:
> http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/
> 
> If any of the workers fail you are unstable


I would be fine with 4-4.3Ghz I'm not going for any records. I'll go play a game and report back, heck at stock I had something like 299 GPS in CS:GO so I am sure 4.0Ghz would even be fine I just want to make sure everything is working as it should. I am also going to be replacing the stock fan with a Noctua fan, because why not.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> your not using an 8350, probably overclocks a phenom II higher then my 8350 will go. But the heat dissipation of the 212 is not enough to handle the 8350 during overclock (more then just a little bit)


Agreed. My 212 EVO can't contain my 8320 @ 4.5ghz on 1.392vcore with ultra high LLC. Temps just keep climbing. I really don't know if it's stable but i haven't had problems gaming at all. Maybe i need to remount and try again which i might. I actually had a system shut off trying to pass IBT at 1.392vcore temps rose all the way to 83C. Dumb on my part but i don't plan on letting it happen again. Strangely though on stock volts, regular LLC, i hit 4.0 and 10hrs of prime95 stable only broke 55C. Time to invest in a Raystorm or H220 though.


----------



## dmfree88

atleast you almost got 4.5 to work. im stuck at 4.3ghz.. and actually thats with a case fan on pull. once i took my case fan off of there it doesn't like stress testing even at 4.3 now. Sad that the stock hs/fan from amd thats like 1/8 of the size can perform the same if not better. If it didnt sound like a jet plane id go back to stock even for $30 it was a waste of money for my 8350.


----------



## m4paws

Hey guys,
New to Overclock.net and this club. I recently built my PC with an i7-3770k. I orginally put a 212+ on it. I was helping a friend build their rig, so I gave him the 212+ and I got an Evo. I also got a fan controller that has temperature probes. Just wondering what might be the best place to put the probe - the bottom of the heatpipes or the silver block?

Also, anyone have an opinion which fan is better with the Evo, the Xtra Flo it comes with, or the Blademaster from the 212+?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> atleast you almost got 4.5 to work. im stuck at 4.3ghz.. and actually thats with a case fan on pull. once i took my case fan off of there it doesn't like stress testing even at 4.3 now. Sad that the stock hs/fan from amd thats like 1/8 of the size can perform the same if not better. If it didnt sound like a jet plane id go back to stock even for $30 it was a waste of money for my 8350.


I guess your right. I set some fan profiles in the BIOS to see if i could slow the temp rise down, running 1700rpm when it hits 50C. It lasted three rounds of IBT before shooting up to the 70s and i stopped. Still even with the thing at 100% it just can't contain a load of stress like that on the CPU with that much heat. Oh well water here we come


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m4paws*
> 
> Hey guys,
> New to Overclock.net and this club. I recently built my PC with an i7-3770k. I orginally put a 212+ on it. I was helping a friend build their rig, so I gave him the 212+ and I got an Evo. I also got a fan controller that has temperature probes. Just wondering what might be the best place to put the probe - the bottom of the heatpipes or the silver block?
> 
> Also, anyone have an opinion which fan is better with the Evo, the Xtra Flo it comes with, or the Blademaster from the 212+?


Blademaster.


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *m4paws*
> 
> Hey guys,
> New to Overclock.net and this club. I recently built my PC with an i7-3770k. I orginally put a 212+ on it. I was helping a friend build their rig, so I gave him the 212+ and I got an Evo. I also got a fan controller that has temperature probes. Just wondering what might be the best place to put the probe - the bottom of the heatpipes or the silver block?
> 
> Also, anyone have an opinion which fan is better with the Evo, the Xtra Flo it comes with, or the Blademaster from the 212+?
> 
> 
> 
> *Blademaster*.
Click to expand...

agreed ^

not sure about the temp probe placement tho sorry.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I guess your right. I set some fan profiles in the BIOS to see if i could slow the temp rise down, running 1700rpm when it hits 50C. It lasted three rounds of IBT before shooting up to the 70s and i stopped. Still even with the thing at 100% it just can't contain a load of stress like that on the CPU with that much heat. Oh well water here we come


Im actually excited to go to big air. Sadly the evo is the same height as the noctua nh-d14 but as a single tower just doesnt cut it. So I think Ill be getting the D14 at some point.

I am still also thinking of cutting a hole in the side of my case for this:
http://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/309
Only place I can get it from is Germany:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B007VDD63M/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all

It would actually look good sticking out of the case if I did it right and it lined up properly. Doubt its worth the effort though









Also thinking about a Alpenfohn K2 it out-performs the noctua and its a bit smaller:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005TMG8G4/ref=dp_olp_0?ie=UTF8&condition=all

Noctua is much cheaper though and easier to find. We need some german retailers here selling these coolers.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Im actually excited to go to big air. Sadly the evo is the same height as the noctua nh-d14 but as a single tower just doesnt cut it. So I think Ill be getting the D14 at some point.


The Noctua is actually 1.5 mm taller than the Hyper.


----------



## m4paws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Blademaster.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> agreed ^
> 
> not sure about the temp probe placement tho sorry.


Thanks, I appreciate it. I kept the Blademaster


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The Noctua is actually 1.5 mm taller than the Hyper.


where are you getting this info? Everywhere I have read they are both 160mm. Its probably 1.5mm taller with the fans maybe? But that can be slid down to make up for it. I will be pissed if I get this thing and it doesnt fit









edit:
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=34&lng=en&set=1
noctua site says 160mm with fan

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=3053
CM says 159****
All the other websites lied to me shoulda went to the source! I might have an extra mm or MAYBE 2 but that would be IT.


----------



## Buxty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> where are you getting this info? Everywhere I have read they are both 160mm. Its probably 1.5mm taller with the fans maybe? But that can be slid down to make up for it. I will be pissed if I get this thing and it doesnt fit


From what i remember the Hyper is 159mm tall and after checking just now, the NH D14 is 160mm tall with or without fans fitted.


----------



## dmfree88

Actually after furthur examination I dont think its going to fit:



Its hard to make out but thats the red bubble of the case and you can kinda see the posts of the 212 sticking out inside of it there will probably be enough room height-wise if it were to stay in the bubble. But at the bottom of the picture you can see that the bubble angles down, the 212s top pipes dont quite clear that angle while im putting the door on. Im thinking that with a wider noctua (and taller) its likely not going to work







. Might have to drill holes for heat pipes. If Im going to do that I might aswell cut a big hole for the dark rock pro 2 to fit.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buxty*
> 
> From what i remember the Hyper is 159mm tall and after checking just now, the NH D14 is 160mm tall with or without fans fitted.


The 212 is actually 158.5 mm tall.


----------



## Peanuts4

If I added a 2nd fan to the 212 evo would I see any noticeable difference or am I essentially just going to be wasting power for no reason?
Also is it worth replacing the stock fan with a Noctua I have here? Not sure if there would be any noticeable difference.

Thanks


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> If I added a 2nd fan to the 212 evo would I see any noticeable difference or am I essentially just going to be wasting power for no reason?
> Also is it worth replacing the stock fan with a Noctua I have here? Not sure if there would be any noticeable difference.
> 
> Thanks


people have done lots of testing between single fans in push or pull and then added a second fan for push pull and the difference was small like 1-2*C over a single fan...


----------



## Peanuts4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> people have done lots of testing between single fans in push or pull and then added a second fan for push pull and the difference was small like 1-2*C over a single fan...


Thanks you just saved me from wasting 10min.


----------



## SneezyPepper

hi guys, I'm new here... was wondering anyone here owns the new Hyper 212X?

Does it performs the same as Evo?

Thank you.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> If I added a 2nd fan to the 212 evo would I see any noticeable difference or am I essentially just going to be wasting power for no reason?
> Also is it worth replacing the stock fan with a Noctua I have here? Not sure if there would be any noticeable difference.
> 
> Thanks


You're essentially just going to be wasting power for no one or two degrees celcius.


----------



## Sheyster

If anything just replace the stock fan with a single better fan. I'm replacing my stock fan with a Yate-Loon SH I've had sitting in a box for the past year. It'll be a little bit louder, and probably 1-2 degrees cooler.


----------



## dmfree88

with push/pull i was able to pull a couple degrees and stay stable .1ghz higher. 4.4ghz vs 4.3ghz and it was only 2-3 degrees less at same clock speed. Not worth the investment really. Maybe if you bought 2 amazing fans youd see some improvements but its not really worth the effort. Save for a better cooler, Custom water loop or a real air cooler like noctua nh-d14 or phanteks PH-tc14pe. As happy as everyone had seemed to be with this hyper 212 when i first got it, i was extremely dissappointed. Wasn't even worth the $30 i could have saved that and used stock and eventually got something better. If your planning on overclocking a powerhouse like a fx-8 series you will be MUCH happier with something else.


----------



## Sheyster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> with push/pull i was able to pull a couple degrees and stay stable .1ghz higher. 4.4ghz vs 4.3ghz and it was only 2-3 degrees less at same clock speed. Not worth the investment really. Maybe if you bought 2 amazing fans youd see some improvements but its not really worth the effort. Save for a better cooler, Custom water loop or a real air cooler like noctua nh-d14 or phanteks PH-tc14pe. As happy as everyone had seemed to be with this hyper 212 when i first got it, i was extremely dissappointed. Wasn't even worth the $30 i could have saved that and used stock and eventually got something better. If your planning on overclocking a powerhouse like a fx-8 series you will be MUCH happier with something else.


This cooler was intended for mild to mid OC's. It's not meant to compete with an $80+ Noctua or Phanteks cooler.


----------



## axel000

I've been pretty lucky with the Hyper 212 Evo. I installed it with an i5 3570k and have it OC'd 24x7 to 4.5ghz with no issues. Ambient room temp is 71-72f, idle CPU is around 34f, and full Prime95 load temp maxes out at around 73F.

All good. Tempted to go higher...


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axel000*
> 
> I've been pretty lucky with the Hyper 212 Evo. I installed it with an i5 3570k and have it OC'd 24x7 to 4.5ghz with no issues. Ambient room temp is 71-72f, idle CPU is around 34f, and full Prime95 load temp maxes out at around 73F.
> 
> All good. Tempted to go higher...


... You mean idle CPU is 34C and Load temp 73C, right? Otherwise impossible for an air cooler to go UNDER ambient temperature (physics) when your ambient is 71-72F...


----------



## chinesethunda

not sure if people still wonder if it's worth an extra fan for push pull, but adding a fan only drops your temps by about 1-2 degrees, check out my sig for the tests i did with it


----------



## SneezyPepper

I will retire my Antec 620 which will be 2 years old by October.

Bought the 212X, its around $40 where I am.

Will install this weekend.


----------



## automaton

have a hyper 212 evo

cpu fan stalls at startup any one else?


----------



## automaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> have a hyper 212 evo
> 
> cpu fan stalls at startup any one else?


how do I update my sig?


----------



## SneezyPepper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> how do I update my sig?


just click on your username on the top right hand corner, then scroll down, you will see forum signature. On the right click on edit signature.


----------



## roguetrip

What would someone recommend as a good replacement fan for the EVO?

Bought mine a few weeks ago with a 4670k and GA-Z87-UD4H and replaced a AMD 960T x4 @ 3.9GHz

Keeping it stock for awhile and not De-lidding yet.

Started testing off with 94c Max IBT: VH and after these few weeks of modding and messing around I get 71c max.
23c isn't a bad decrease I'd say.

Cooler outside tonight (57f) than its been in awhile and running IBT:VH reports:
MAX: 69 69 66 61
MIN: 27 25 26 24

I have another trick up my sleeve and will see how it goes temp wise as soon as I get the energy


----------



## wongwarren

Anyone seen this?


----------



## Beemo

SneezyPepper (post 5861) has one.


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roguetrip*
> 
> What would someone recommend as a good replacement fan for the EVO?
> 
> Bought mine a few weeks ago with a 4670k and GA-Z87-UD4H and replaced a AMD 960T x4 @ 3.9GHz
> 
> Keeping it stock for awhile and not De-lidding yet.
> 
> Started testing off with 94c Max IBT: VH and after these few weeks of modding and messing around I get 71c max.
> 23c isn't a bad decrease I'd say.
> 
> Cooler outside tonight (57f) than its been in awhile and running IBT:VH reports:
> MAX: 69 69 66 61
> MIN: 27 25 26 24
> 
> I have another trick up my sleeve and will see how it goes temp wise as soon as I get the energy


Are you looking for quieter, better performance, or both? A TY-140, TY-141, TY-143, or TY-147 are my general recommendations for a replacement fan.


----------



## EchoTwoZero

I like this cooler a lot. Keeps my i5 2500K under 70C load @ 4.7 Ghz. 1.4 V (My CPU isn't a very good OC.)


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roguetrip*
> 
> What would someone recommend as a good replacement fan for the EVO?
> 
> Bought mine a few weeks ago with a 4670k and GA-Z87-UD4H and replaced a AMD 960T x4 @ 3.9GHz
> 
> Keeping it stock for awhile and not De-lidding yet.
> 
> Started testing off with 94c Max IBT: VH and after these few weeks of modding and messing around I get 71c max.
> 23c isn't a bad decrease I'd say.
> 
> Cooler outside tonight (57f) than its been in awhile and running IBT:VH reports:
> MAX: 69 69 66 61
> MIN: 27 25 26 24
> 
> I have another trick up my sleeve and will see how it goes temp wise as soon as I get the energy


maybe a cougar?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380699702073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

lots of people rave about the amazing static pressure to sound ratio. works best with tight fins


----------



## nubbinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> maybe a cougar?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/380699702073?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> lots of people rave about the amazing static pressure to sound ratio. works best with tight fins


I had both Cougars and the Thermalright fans I recommended on a Hyper 212 Plus and the Thermalright fans performed better while being quieter.


----------



## dmfree88

i think its due to the bad fin spacing in the hyper 212. its spaced out so far to use low pressure low sound fans that a high static pressure fan doesnt get as good performance.

im sure the cougars would outperform the thermalright's** on a rad


----------



## nubbinator

You wouldn't be able to put the thermalrights on a rad.


----------



## SneezyPepper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Anyone seen this?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes, I just bought one last weekend, but haven't installed yet.

No major changes except for the fan, and some little holes on the plates to somewhat control the airflow going more on the heat pipes.


----------



## automaton

thanks for info

changed my sig


----------



## SneezyPepper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> thanks for info
> changed my sig


you're welcome


----------



## SneezyPepper

Was wondering if a hyper 212x user like me can join the club?

I just bought one, and from where I am, it's price is 40$. Since the price is same with 212 evo, I opted for the newer 212x.

Here's some pictures, sorry if the image is not crisp and clear, I'm just using a low end point and shoot camera.

The BOX:



Accesories:

Bracket, Mounting Plate, Extra Fan clip for p and p config, Motherboard Standoff, CM TIM, screws, rubber for fan clips.





The Heatsink:


They have added this criss cross thingy, CM website says its for better heat dissipation:


Also new to the design is are these holes forming V shape found at the bottom of the heatsink. I guess this controls the air to move towards the heatpipes:


The holes go all the way up to the top, which I hope you can see in this picture:


The heatpipes, nothing new:




The Fan
Newly designed fan, it's a good looking fan.







Fan on Heatsink:




Installed:





TEMPS
I have i7 2600k on stock, the room temp is 30 C.

I've used a Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste.

IDLE:


LOAD:


Overall very satisfied with this cooler, fan is quiet. I'm surprised that it performs 1-2 C better with my old Antec h2O 620 which I retired and replaced with this cooler.

Now I can't compare it with EVO or past versions of 212 since I did not owned one before, this is my first 212. But for it's price, it's really a good performer.


----------



## Beemo

Glad you finally got that bad boy installed +rep


----------



## SneezyPepper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beemo*
> 
> Glad you finally got that bad boy installed +rep


Thanks Beemo.


----------



## neo0031

The thread title definitely needs to add the 212X to it now. That is one badass looking HSF. If only the price matched that of an 212 Evo... but then again, I already have the Evo, so.

Nevertheless, thanks for the pics. In terms of aesthetics only this 212x is definitely awesome looking.


----------



## Sheyster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SneezyPepper*
> 
> Here's some pictures, sorry if the image is not crisp and clear, I'm just using a low end point and shoot camera.


Good pics and mini review. +Rep for you! I don't see why the 212X should not be added to this club.


----------



## vanquestly

yes.I have one, it would be cool to create a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus Club .thanks


----------



## SneezyPepper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> The thread title definitely needs to add the 212X to it now.


yes... adopt us, 212x users









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheyster*
> 
> Good pics and mini review. +Rep for you! I don't see why the 212X should not be added to this club.


Thanks Sheyster


----------



## akbisw

I lost two of my EVO screws for the heatsink and it still does a good job lol. i have the top two screws and gravity's doing to rest to keep the cpu contact intact


----------



## TELVM

Thanks for sharing SneezyPepper







.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SneezyPepper*
> 
> Was wondering if a hyper 212x user like me can join the club?
> 
> I just bought one, and from where I am, it's price is 40$. Since the price is same with 212 evo, I opted for the newer 212x.
> 
> Here's some pictures, sorry if the image is not crisp and clear, I'm just using a low end point and shoot camera.
> 
> The BOX:
> 
> 
> 
> Accesories:
> 
> Bracket, Mounting Plate, Extra Fan clip for p and p config, Motherboard Standoff, CM TIM, screws, rubber for fan clips.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Heatsink:
> 
> 
> They have added this criss cross thingy, CM website says its for better heat dissipation:
> 
> 
> Also new to the design is are these holes forming V shape found at the bottom of the heatsink. I guess this controls the air to move towards the heatpipes:
> 
> 
> The holes go all the way up to the top, which I hope you can see in this picture:
> 
> 
> The heatpipes, nothing new:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Fan
> Newly designed fan, it's a good looking fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fan on Heatsink:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Installed:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TEMPS
> I have i7 2600k on stock, the room temp is 30 C.
> 
> I've used a Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste.
> 
> IDLE:
> 
> 
> LOAD:
> 
> 
> Overall very satisfied with this cooler, fan is quiet. I'm surprised that it performs 1-2 C better with my old Antec h2O 620 which I retired and replaced with this cooler.
> 
> Now I can't compare it with EVO or past versions of 212 since I did not owned one before, this is my first 212. But for it's price, it's really a good performer.


Thanks for all that eye candy!


----------



## yanks8981

Does anyone know where I could get an Hyper 212 accessories kit other than the CM parts store? I had a 2011 board that had a built in back plate, but I want to do some testing on my new 1150 board with air before I install my WC loop. The CM store seems to be sold out.


----------



## 3boydad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chinesethunda*
> 
> not sure if people still wonder if it's worth an extra fan for push pull, but adding a fan only drops your temps by about 1-2 degrees, check out my sig for the tests i did with it


sweet i will take 2 degrees drop. i ordered new fans for mine.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181040

they will be delivered tomorrow and i will install them on my evo. with my haswell i get 26-30c per corde on idle. prime highest it hit was 58 on a core. one fan but running stock. not a bad heatsink. i dont plan on being very aggressive on OC with it, just a milk OC if it's stable or leave it until i can get a good water system. Then again it's pretty darn fast stock bursting @ 3.8 ghz ive seen it go over 4 on the burst as well.


----------



## Beemo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3boydad*
> 
> sweet i will take 2 degrees drop. i ordered new fans for mine.http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181040
> 
> they will be delivered tomorrow and i will install them on my evo. with my haswell i get 26-30c per corde on idle. prime highest it hit was 58 on a core. one fan but running stock. not a bad heatsink. i dont plan on being very aggressive on OC with it, just a milk OC if it's stable or leave it until i can get a good water system. Then again it's pretty darn fast stock bursting @ 3.8 ghz ive seen it go over 4 on the burst as well.


I installed a second fan that I had around on my 212 Evo and it dropped by 2 degrees, But I also removed my case exhaust fan and dropped my temps by another 3 degrees. My 3570k isn't oc'ed yet but I was happy with the 5 degree drop in temp.


----------



## 3boydad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beemo*
> 
> I installed a second fan that I had around on my 212 Evo and it dropped by 2 degrees, But I also removed my case exhaust fan and dropped my temps by another 3 degrees. My 3570k isn't oc'ed yet but I was happy with the 5 degree drop in temp.


temps went down with less air moving out of the case? i too have a fan on the back. two big fans blowing out the top and one by mt hard drives for intake glowing over my video card. and a pci exhaust fan. i have a lot of air moving in and out. i would think that would help it. i guess i can try it both ways after i get the new fans tomorrow. those fans are supposed to be pretty nice for static pressure.


----------



## 3boydad

my cores idle at 26-31 which isnt bad for haswell. but it is stock still. full stres they hit 58 and grop down to the upper 40's mid 50's. that's where im hoping two fans will help more.


----------



## OV3RKiLL

Please can i join the club, i have a hyper 212 EVO with push/pull cooler master xtraflo's (the red LED 2200rpm versions)


----------



## bombastinator

this is probably in here somewhere but with 590 posts I have no idea how to even look for it.

I got a question: How long do the stock fans last?

I am trying to keep an old lga775 rig running long enough to see the post PS4/XboxOne games to find out what I am going to need to have (other than a console. I do not do consoles) . My freezer 7 pro is just not cutting it. I need more oomph to get the overclock where I need it to be.

The problem is I don't want to spend any money doing it either. I found a hyper 212+ for around 30 bucks with two fans on it. I figure if I use only one, when it dies I can slap the other on. the rig frequently idles day and night so a truly crap fan will die in months. Can I make it a year with this thing?


----------



## Beemo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3boydad*
> 
> temps went down with less air moving out of the case? i too have a fan on the back. two big fans blowing out the top and one by mt hard drives for intake glowing over my video card. and a pci exhaust fan. i have a lot of air moving in and out. i would think that would help it. i guess i can try it both ways after i get the new fans tomorrow. those fans are supposed to be pretty nice for static pressure.


I had two 140mm in front as intake, one 120mm as intake from the bottom and one 120mm as exhaust. I tested the configuration multiple times just to make sure I wasn't crazy lol. I can't explain it, my best guess is the two 120mm fans on the heatsink were pushing so much air that the exhaust couldn't keep up. But like I said im not expert, it may have been a fluke.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bombastinator*
> 
> this is probably in here somewhere but with 590 posts I have no idea how to even look for it.
> 
> I got a question: How long do the stock fans last?
> 
> I am trying to keep an old lga775 rig running long enough to see the post PS4/XboxOne games to find out what I am going to need to have (other than a console. I do not do consoles) . My freezer 7 pro is just not cutting it. I need more oomph to get the overclock where I need it to be.
> 
> The problem is I don't want to spend any money doing it either. I found a hyper 212+ for around 30 bucks with two fans on it. I figure if I use only one, when it dies I can slap the other on. the rig frequently idles day and night so a truly crap fan will die in months. Can I make it a year with this thing?


I have the EVO and my stock fan died within a week, I think it was just a defective fan since from day one it never cooled like the reviews showed plus the fan made really odd sounds on start up. I just replaced it with another 120 I had and all has been good since.


----------



## bombastinator

Quote:


> I have the EVO and my stock fan died within a week, I think it was just a defective fan since from day one it never cooled like the reviews showed plus the fan made really odd sounds on start up. I just replaced it with another 120 I had and all has been good since.


hmm.. this is not encouraging. It is apparently a rifle bearing fan, not a sleeve. At least on the 212+, and a fairly decent one. I dug a pic of it on hardwarecanuks inthe meantime


----------



## 3boydad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bombastinator*
> 
> hmm.. this is not encouraging. It is apparently a rifle bearing fan, not a sleeve. At least on the 212+, and a fairly decent one. I dug a pic of it on hardwarecanuks inthe meantime


i had no problem with the stock fan it did a fine job but i did replace it with two http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181040

i dont know if i made a good choice or not but the fans are supposed to be good.


----------



## bombastinator

well, i'll go to microcenter and pull the trigger today


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OV3RKiLL*
> 
> Please can i join the club, i have a hyper 212 EVO with push/pull cooler master xtraflo's (the red LED 2200rpm versions)


Post a pic, and add yourself !

P.S. I've updated the signup form.


----------



## blado

One of my cores reached a max of 91 degrees in a Prime95 blend test with a max voltage of 1.2V. This is with a i5 3570k @4.5GHz on an ASrock z77 extreme4 with a Hyper 212 EVO. The rest of the cores are averaging in the mid 80s at the most, and most of the time my temps stay in the high 60s, mid 70s. Are these temps okay for a 24/7 overclock, or is it too high? I suppose it's also possible that because of the extreme4 the voltage is actually higher. I saw some other people that seemed to be getting better temps than me with the same cooler, so I was curious as to what is normal.


----------



## Beemo

You may want to look into delidding. I think the max temp for the 3750k is 105C before you will get throttling, so technically you are safe but I wouldn't want my 3750K.

Delidding link


----------



## Peanuts4

Haswell i5 owners what are your average/ full load temps with the 212?
Depending on room temps Full load in Prme 95 I've hit 80-90 degrees but when I hit 90 I stop it, idle I'm around mid 30s. I'm replacing the fan soon with a new Noctua I'm hoping I see a bit of an improvement.


----------



## atarione

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> Haswell i5 owners what are your average/ full load temps with the 212?
> Depending on room temps Full load in Prme 95 I've hit 80-90 degrees but when I hit 90 I stop it, idle I'm around mid 30s. I'm replacing the fan soon with a new Noctua I'm hoping I see a bit of an improvement.


I have a i7-4770K (stock) w/ a hyper212 evo (push/pull Gelid Silent 12 fans ) when I run prime I'm hitting 85/85/82/79 w/ about 27C ambient room temp.


----------



## roguetrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peanuts4*
> 
> Haswell i5 owners what are your average/ full load temps with the 212?
> Depending on room temps Full load in Prme 95 I've hit 80-90 degrees but when I hit 90 I stop it, idle I'm around mid 30s. I'm replacing the fan soon with a new Noctua I'm hoping I see a bit of an improvement.


I had some fun figuring out my temps on my 4670k. You can read about what i've done so far here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1421739/haswell-4670k-safe-stock-clock-undervolt#post_20683610

Since then I added a 140mm cougar in my 5.25" pointed towards my 212 Evo and got temps to around 65c. After that I added another fan for push/pull config. CoolerMaster Blade Master and saw 0c improvement. Fan was bad anyways and got a refund (Thanks Newegg).

I'd say my ambient go from 15~20c or something low like that. Got no Temp meter to measure accurately.

TLR
Hyper 212 Evo + Included CM paste = 94c
Hyper 212 Evo + AC MX-2 paste = 88c
Hyper 212 Evo Lapped (1k grit) + AC MX-2 paste = 84c
Hyper 212 Evo Lapped + AC MX-2 paste + 1.080v = 68c
Hyper 212 Evo Lapped + AC MX-2 paste + 1.080v + 140mm fan in 5.25" bay (intake) = 65c
Hyper 212 Evo Lapped + AC MX-2 paste + 1.080v + 2nd Blade Master (pull) = 65c

My current Idle with CoreTemp per core 0-3 is 26c / 23c / 25c / 24c


----------



## Hepokatti2332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roguetrip*
> 
> I had some fun figuring out my temps on my 4670k. You can read about what i've done so far here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1421739/haswell-4670k-safe-stock-clock-undervolt#post_20683610
> 
> Since then I added a 140mm cougar in my 5.25" pointed towards my 212 Evo and got temps to around 65c. After that I added another fan for push/pull config. CoolerMaster Blade Master and saw 0c improvement. Fan was bad anyways and got a refund (Thanks Newegg).
> 
> I'd say my ambient go from 15~20c or something low like that. Got no Temp meter to measure accurately.
> 
> TLR
> Hyper 212 Evo + Included CM paste = 94c
> Hyper 212 Evo + AC MX-2 paste = 88c
> Hyper 212 Evo Lapped (1k grit) + AC MX-2 paste = 84c
> Hyper 212 Evo Lapped + AC MX-2 paste + 1.080v = 68c
> Hyper 212 Evo Lapped + AC MX-2 paste + 1.080v + 140mm fan in 5.25" bay (intake) = 65c
> Hyper 212 Evo Lapped + AC MX-2 paste + 1.080v + 2nd Blade Master (pull) = 65c
> 
> My current Idle with CoreTemp per core 0-3 is 26c / 23c / 25c / 24c


I get about 50C max on prime95 stock thermal paste and push pull config. The second fan gave no improvement though (4670 non-k define R4 2 fans in the front and one on the bottom 1 rear exhaust)


----------



## bombastinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hepokatti2332*
> 
> I get about 50C max on prime95 stock thermal paste and push pull config. The second fan gave no improvement though


that is apparently not unusual. The 2 fan thing worked better on the 212+


----------



## Hepokatti2332

Yep, i have the evo one like you appatently know ^^ at least i made it look better...


----------



## Wabbit16

Hey guys, a quickie...

What is the best way to clean the fins off a Hyper 212+?

I have some surface dust on it but it is hanging onto the fins like a dog to a steak, and no amount of huffing and puffing loosens it. I have heard of some people cleaning it with vinegar? I am assuming not pure as it will harm the finish, but maybe 90/10 vinegar and distilled water would do the trick?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Hey guys, a quickie...
> 
> What is the best way to clean the fins off a Hyper 212+?
> 
> I have some surface dust on it but it is hanging onto the fins like a dog to a steak, and no amount of huffing and puffing loosens it. I have heard of some people cleaning it with vinegar? I am assuming not pure as it will harm the finish, but maybe 90/10 vinegar and distilled water would do the trick?


By huffing and puffing I assume you meant blowing at it with your lungs? Have you tried compressed air? Like those canned ones.


----------



## Wabbit16

Lungs, and then a 550W blower motor which did not help much









Maybe there is something in South African dust that makes it cling to everything? We aren't near the ocean so I don't think it's humidity...it's been pretty dry here the past few weeks as well


----------



## bombastinator

well the fan unclips pretty easy. depending on case layout you could just take the thing out and wipe it down. Watch where the fan connecter is first. You'll have to get it back in again, and that might be tough depending on your MoBo

Sounds to me like you need a serious dust filter solution. I can't believe you used a leaf blower on your PC. What if it picked up a stone?


----------



## Wabbit16

Okay, let me explain. I am not of the type to take a leafblower to my PC.

I took the heatsink out of the case, unclipped the fans and blew it out like that. The intake on the blower I have is filtered so no debris will get shoved into the fins.

The problem is still the dirt that sticks to the fins, hence me asking what will remove it?


----------



## bombastinator

an alcohol wipe maybe? I think you're allowed to touch them.


----------



## Wabbit16

That could work. Sorry if I came across as harsh on my previous post...rough day


----------



## Beemo

I have always used a paint brush and a can of compressed air to clean my heat sinks. The brush dislodges the dust and the canned air blows it away.


----------



## Wabbit16

Awesome. I'm starting to think I'm dealing more with grime than anything else...this stuff is stubborn.

Another quickie - what can I use to get the copper lustre back on the heatpipes? They are starting to fade a bit and they don't look nice and orange anymore? Or should I just leave it and have it look like a battle-hardened veteran?


----------



## bombastinator

copper oxide is tough stuff. the standard thing here is brasso


Thing is it;s a moderately nasty caustic paste, and you must not under any circumstances get it on the cooler plate. Plus getting between the pipes is going to be a pain. Personally, I'd leave it.

There is one more trick that may or may not work: a standard pink pencil eraser. Takes a certain amount of elbow grease so you'll have to remember not to crush the fins while you hold it.


----------



## dmfree88

compressed air works best. just attach a blower tip and it will clean it up quick, always keep your distance at first and make sure its dry afterwards just in case any residual water in the tank blew out


----------



## bombastinator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> compressed air works best. just attach a blower tip and it will clean it up quick, always keep your distance at first and make sure its dry afterwards just in case any residual water in the tank blew out


If you're getting wet air in your compresser you shuld have a dryer on it.



It;s just an empty housing pointing down with a one way valve at the bottom. The water comes out of suspension when it hits the larger area and falls to the bottom.

Keeps your air tools from rusting up.


----------



## dmfree88

i dont get any water coming out, my tanks cleaned everytime i use it so the water comes out the bottom what little there is. Also my tanks a cheap-o from harbor freight so im not going to be adding anything to it to make it better







. But yeah thats a good idea for someone who uses air tools often.. I actually made a similar device for my car. For some reason the crank case wasnt ventilating properly and was spewing oil into my air intake, So I created a similar device with a pvc tube and emptied it once a month or so. Cleaned up my air intake and no more oil going back down on my air filter. Was strange problem though it spewed alot of oil. Anyways off subject either way the air compressor is my favorite go to tool for heatsink cleaning, works great on tiny laptop heatsinks that are extremely tight fins. Of course you will need some sort of tip:



i use for all my pc/laptop cleaning needs. Although due to the possibility of water they say its not recommended to use a compressor. But for some reason I get more water on my PC from canned "clean your PC air" then i do from my air compressor so I have always preferred the compressor over anything and personally have never had a water issue (coming out of the tip), but I do empty any water and air built up (in the canister) before every use and there always is a little bit (much less then even one can of canned air).


----------



## bombastinator

that;s not water it's liquified gas. It should disapear immediately. I avoid canned air because of the denaturing agent they use to dissuade the huffers. It gets on your hands and if you get it in your mouth it's awful. A small dryer is like 10 bucks or less. that monster was just what google images threw at me. If you live in a dry area though there won't be much water in the air in the first place.


----------



## dmfree88

it doesn't disappear... it seems like water to me. or a similar substance. As it will sit on there and look wet. Maybe Ive gotten bad cans of air or something but I dont get them anymore after the finger streaks i was leaving on laptop lcd screens.

Yea Im sure a can is fairly cheap I will probably get one with the next compressor. Really dont use it much but to pump up tires and clean an occasional heatsink







. So really its not a major worry for me anyways. If I used air tools more then once a year Id probably care







. But really the water that gets in there is like droplets and never comes out the business end so I think im good anyways







.

Thanks for the tip though I have not seen that they made those for compressors. I have seen that exact compressor with that exact canister on it before and I was like whats this extra thing, so youve atleast answered that for me LOL. Hopefully I will have the tools and the need for one someday


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Lungs, and then a 550W blower motor which did not help much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe there is something in South African dust that makes it cling to everything? We aren't near the ocean so I don't think it's humidity...it's been pretty dry here the past few weeks as well


I know what you mean mate. It still clings to my Hyper. And nowadays its in radiators and fans and oh jeez!


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I know what you mean mate. It still clings to my Hyper. And nowadays its in radiators and fans and oh jeez!


All the way up in Joeys? Bliksem...although I think you guys have had a lot more rain than we have lately..the Eastern Cape is quite dry...if you throw a bucket of water outside the bushes charge at you...


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I know what you mean mate. It still clings to my Hyper. And nowadays its in radiators and fans and oh jeez!
> 
> 
> 
> All the way up in Joeys? Bliksem...although I think you guys have had a lot more rain than we have lately..the Eastern Cape is quite dry...if you throw a bucket of water outside the bushes charge at you...
Click to expand...

Yeah we had some rain just the other day. I capitilised on the lower ambients so I could run some benches at 5GHz.


----------



## Wabbit16

Sweet! We have a bit of a heatwave here...the Rhodes website says 34 degrees Celsius. Yesterday was 37! Time to get my summer body ready for the beach


----------



## hucklebuck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> Hey guys, a quickie...
> 
> What is the best way to clean the fins off a Hyper 212+?
> 
> I have some surface dust on it but it is hanging onto the fins like a dog to a steak, and no amount of huffing and puffing loosens it. I have heard of some people cleaning it with vinegar? I am assuming not pure as it will harm the finish, but maybe 90/10 vinegar and distilled water would do the trick?


Try using a small clean paint brush to loosen it up and then some compressed air to blow it out.


----------



## Wabbit16

So guys...yesterday was my last day as part of this club. I have given my 212+ away to a friend of mine. He still had the stock Intel cooler and I thought, "No, here we must make a plan". I wasn't very active here myself but this club is a wealth of knowledge and the folks here so clued up and helpful.

You people are awesome


----------



## Khaled G

Update: New guide written from scratch, old guide still there, suggestions appreciated (Post or PM).

@chinesethunda: Please link the guide in the first post, thanks.


----------



## ARSD

Hello all club members,
I just share my experience about hyper 212x cooling. I brought 212x for my A8-5600k HTPC 6 months ago. It works very fine. I can push my APU to 4.7GHz with Vcore 1.475V while temperature at full load reading about 60 C degree on 35 C ambient temperature. I use it with MX-4 thermal compound. It's performance was impressed me very much. I try a second fan to pull the exhaust from it by CM 90CFM fan that make much louder noise and not much benefit as i expect. so it not need a second fan. One thing i found is we can not place this fan in horizon plane for pulling cold air from bottom flow the air up to the top of your case. It will give you a maximum fan speed around 1200 rpm. (of maximum fan speed 2000 rpm) It might be cause of new fan bearing type.

I also add my config to google doc in the first page already.


----------



## dmfree88

sounds like every other hyper 212. Good performance for the dollar, but bad product all around, if you get no performance improvements from fan upgrades, its likely a crappy heatsink with decent capabilities.. Mounting system sucks, heatsink needs tighter fins, mounting surface is not the greatest, the fans are cheap. Somehow you put this together and get decent results, add a good price tag and people go nuts. Lucky for CM bad for everyone else. Sadly the new 212x is a bad price tag so that good performance for the dollar went out the window. I am sure ANYONE would be MUCH happier with a phanteks ph-tc14pe or a noctua nh-d14 (or anything similar), if they only knew the difference. Especially considering the new similar price tag and the mediocre parts.

Truthfully even if you get worse results I would personally still be much happier with something of more quality for a similar price (even a low end single tower like a true spirit 140 or something). Still get similar results (likely not better) with a better product. Or for minimal more (especially compared to the 212x) you can go to a double tower and have better performance

CM strikes again with another mediocre product I am sure they will make millions off of.


----------



## Wabbit16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> sounds like every other hyper 212. Good performance for the dollar, but bad product all around, if you get no performance improvements from fan upgrades, its likely a crappy heatsink with decent capabilities.. Mounting system sucks, heatsink needs tighter fins, mounting surface is not the greatest, the fans are cheap. Somehow you put this together and get decent results, add a good price tag and people go nuts. Lucky for CM bad for everyone else. Sadly the new 212x is a bad price tag so that good performance for the dollar went out the window. I am sure ANYONE would be MUCH happier with a phanteks ph-tc14pe or a noctua nh-d14 (or anything similar), if they only knew the difference. Especially considering the new similar price tag and the mediocre parts.
> 
> Truthfully even if you get worse results I would personally still be much happier with something of more quality for a similar price (even a low end single tower like a true spirit 140 or something). Still get similar results (likely not better) with a better product. Or for minimal more (especially compared to the 212x) you can go to a double tower and have better performance
> 
> CM strikes again with another mediocre product I am sure they will make millions off of.


I'm sure 99% of this thread would disagree with you. For the money, these are fantastic little coolers. Sure, you get what you pay for, but it performs exceptionally well for the price and many people (myself included) have had them and are impressed by their performance! Hell, I even got my i5 to 5GHz with it once!

The NH-D14 as an example costs more than my current H80i in our country, and they are scarce as hens teeth. I am not saying its like this everywhere, but so what if CM made a 'mediocre' product that they will make millions off? That is what companies are supposed to do - make money. They aren't there to please people or win hearts over


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> I'm sure 99% of this thread would disagree with you. For the money, these are fantastic little coolers. Sure, you get what you pay for, but it performs exceptionally well for the price and many people (myself included) have had them and are impressed by their performance! Hell, I even got my i5 to 5GHz with it once!
> 
> The NH-D14 as an example costs more than my current H80i in our country, and they are scarce as hens teeth. I am not saying its like this everywhere, but so what if CM made a 'mediocre' product that they will make millions off? That is what companies are supposed to do - make money. They aren't there to please people or win hearts over


----------



## ARSD

Unfortunately, the NH-D14 cost around $128 in my country. Phanteks PH-TC14PE is not available and also True spirit 140. But hyper 212x cost only $38. I have a very big surprise that someone compare hyper 212x with NH-D14 cause it 3 times price here.








(All prices converted by today exchange rate)


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> sounds like every other hyper 212. Good performance for the dollar, but bad product all around, if you get no performance improvements from fan upgrades, its likely a crappy heatsink with decent capabilities.. Mounting system sucks, heatsink needs tighter fins, mounting surface is not the greatest, the fans are cheap. Somehow you put this together and get decent results, add a good price tag and people go nuts. Lucky for CM bad for everyone else. Sadly the new 212x is a bad price tag so that good performance for the dollar went out the window. I am sure ANYONE would be MUCH happier with a phanteks ph-tc14pe or a noctua nh-d14 (or anything similar), if they only knew the difference. Especially considering the new similar price tag and the mediocre parts.
> 
> Truthfully even if you get worse results I would personally still be much happier with something of more quality for a similar price (even a low end single tower like a true spirit 140 or something). Still get similar results (likely not better) with a better product. Or for minimal more (especially compared to the 212x) you can go to a double tower and have better performance
> 
> CM strikes again with another mediocre product I am sure they will make millions off of.


I have to disagree. The 212 has always been a great product. Yes the mounting system could be better but it is not terrible. Also It performs really well with mid-range dual and quad CPU's which what it is designed and priced to do. It kept my Athlon 2 x4 at 45C when OC'ed to 3.8GHz and then my Phenom 2 X4 at 55c at 4.25GHz. Now that sounds like a decent product to me. Also read the testimonials of other people on this thread with I5's and 7's which are also doing well under this cooler.The problem comes in when people try stick a budget cooler on a high end 6 to 8 core FX or I7 processor. The Hyper 212 was never designed to deal with those heat loads. The 212 + and EVO have a maximum heat capacity of 180w. CM states this on their website. So when people start trying to cool an FX 83XX at 4.5GHz which is pumping out almost 200w of heat, of course it won't handle it. People need to do their research before they try and stick budget coolers on high end processors. Like I said for what it is DESIGNED to do. It does an amazing job for the price.







Please don't get me wrong here. I am not trying to bash or troll you. I just don't think that a company should be labeled because you had one bad experience. If you read up on it a bit you would have seen the specs for the Hyper on CM's website and seen that an overclocked FX-8XXX would be near to or even exceeding the 212's heat capacity.

On the fan subject, I can't comment on the fan used on the 212X. However once again I have only had good experience with CoolerMaster's fans. I own 4 Xtra Flo's. 2 of them I butchered so I could use their impellers on higher RPM motors the other 2 still work perfectly. I also own, to put it simply tons of the BC 120 and 140 LED and non LED fans. All still work and some are YONKS old. I have also heard very good things about the normal Blade Master and Excalibur fans. The latter being a tad bit on the noisy side but otherwise very good for radiators. So I also think that in general for the price they perform amazingly well!


----------



## dmfree88

you guys are all spitting performance metrics at me like it matters. i dont care how well it performs. the mount rotates and ruins thermal paste, you should NEVER have a heatsink that moves AT all after installation. I dont care what ANYONE says this is NOT good for thermal paste and if someone were to let there paste dry out and go too far (not that you should), then remove a fan or something they would destroy paste and possibly cause damage or problems. The mounting hardware is not safe for your cpu, thats not ok. Also I had to bend the mount to get the posts to line up, aswell as the riser's dont fit in the backing plate well and tend to spin even though they are D shaped so they wont move.

I understand most of you saying that its a big price difference. here its a little different the 212x is overpriced right now and for just a few bucks more the phanteks ph-tc14pe would be a huge improvement (difference is literally 10 dollars). If they fixed the mount problem on the 212x then i would probably be ok with it being a reasonable heatsink.

The issue still remains that its not a good product. Again I am not saying it doesn't perform well but there are similar products as I mentioned that would perform similar that are around the same price, that are better quality products IMO. I would even take a thermaltake frio over this cooler (and the frio's mount sucks too). I am not saying the 212 doesn't perform well but there are better quality options atleast in the USA for around the same price. And comparing to the 212x thats going for $60 here you could get the phanteks ph-tc14pe for around $70. I understand if theres not alot of options where your from. The 212 might be the best option.

The truth is its not that good of a product and most of the people here are blinded by the fact that they have never compared it to something of similar performance, but better quality. Sure it took you to 4.5ghz on a i5 processor. But did you try a thermaltake frio, or a truespirit 140, or a Dark knight II OR anything of similar performance but atleast better quality. I can put good fans in a frio and out-perform a hyper212 due to the better fin assembly.

My point is you could have pushed your processor that far with a better quality product for around the same price. and even if it didn't push it quite as far, it would still be a better product and IMO a better option.

I apologize if I sound like I am dogging the product especially on a page that so many people are fans. But this is the biggest hype ive ever seen over a pile of crap its ridiculous.

Problem is there is nothing good about this cooler asside from performance. The fan is weak static pressure and after 6 months makes funny clicking noises (i have case fans from apevia that sound better). The heatsink itself is OK but needs tighter fins you dont see hardly any improvements from fan upgrades or even adding a pull fan. The heatsink surface is less then flat and thermal paste gets trapped in the corners of the rails causing difficulties when cleaning to replace paste. The mounting system is horribly difficult and spreads paste un-evenly, The mounts dont line up properly without some serious effort. The mount rotates when fully applied therefore causing damage to thermal paste. When the fan is put on/removed it causes you to rotate the heatsink, causing these problems. The backing plate is the only reasonable design but truthfully its thinner then the AMD stock backing plate and not that special, and the hardware that connects to it doesnt work properly (D shaped risers still spin as D shaped hole is too big). There is NOTHING I can say good about this cooler EXCEPT its reasonable performance. Correct me if I am wrong but does any of this deserve a good rating? Check my review this thing is boohoo.


----------



## Wabbit16

I think it all boils down to price. Whenever someone mentions a cheap, good air cooler, 8/10 people will recommend the 212 mainly because it is a huge improvement over stock (I am assuming people choose the 212 as their first cooler) and it is very affordable for what you pay.

Mine also moved a bit after installation, but it wasn't anything serious and I did not feel as if it was unsafe in any way. No cooler is perfect and the 212 certainly doesn't pretend to be that. It does what it does - cheaply and without frills


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> you guys are all spitting performance metrics at me like it matters. i dont care how well it performs.


Ooh - Ow - Yikes - Dang!

I think this just happened 

...and we all got 

Hmph! ...


----------



## totalownership

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> My point is you could have pushed your processor that far with a better quality product for around the same price. and even if it didn't push it quite as far, it would still be a better product and IMO a better option.
> 
> Problem is there is nothing good about this cooler asside from performance.


huh?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> I think it all boils down to price. Whenever someone mentions a cheap, good air cooler, 8/10 people will recommend the 212 mainly because it is a huge improvement over stock (I am assuming people choose the 212 as their first cooler) and it is very affordable for what you pay.
> 
> Mine also moved a bit after installation, but it wasn't anything serious and I did not feel as if it was unsafe in any way. No cooler is perfect and the 212 certainly doesn't pretend to be that. It does what it does - cheaply and without frills


I think this is why the hyper212 has so much hype. Its such an improvement over stock that everyone thinks its awesome. If compared to other products it falls short quality-wise.

I really dont like the rotation feature. It doesn't move much as you mentioned but a single degree movement causes friction and moves thermal paste. Everytime you put on or take off the fan it rotates back and forth. Even if the thermal paste is half dry this would cause air holes and degrade thermal paste. I just dont trust that it does this at all. Very irritating I shouldn't have to feel like I should replace my thermal paste after popping the fan on and off. Then if I dont could lose performance due to thermal paste being mucked around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *totalownership*
> 
> huh?


its not all about performance. How does this not make sense? You would take a heatsink that performs better over one that is better all around (that might not quite perform as well)?
Thats your choice but it doesn't seem right to me. Buy by overall product not performance.


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *totalownership*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Problem is there is nothing good about this cooler asside from performance.
> 
> 
> 
> huh?
Click to expand...

^^LOL!


----------



## dmfree88

ok you guys keep buying based on performance. No reason to argue here obviously.

I think I made my point to those who actually read the posts.. If there was anything I said that was wrong please point it out to me.


----------



## totalownership

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> ok you guys keep buying based on performance. No reason to argue here obviously.
> 
> I think I made my point to those who actually read the posts.. If there was anything I said that was wrong please point it out to me.


I read it , thus my "huh?"
Problem here is I haven't seen any posts of people saying this thing cooked their CPUs or that afterwhile they couldn't keep an overclock to save their lives or any of that.

Your post was like Lewis Hamilton winning the Monaco GP by a lap over the competition then getting on the podium saying "except for the fact that this car is the fastest on the field it's junk. There's nothing good about this car except performance"


----------



## dmfree88

YEAH OK! comparison fail!

You cant tell me that the hyper 212 beats all other coolers by that much performance-wise because it doesn't. It doesnt matter if people dont have posts saying it cooked there cpu, the fact remains IT MOVES WHICH IS NOT GOOD. I dont care if you have told me its good or not or if someone else says there cpu has cooked because of it. Thats irrelevant to the fact that it rotates and its NOT GOOD FOR THERMAL PASTE. You dont have to have had a blow up in order to consider this a problem. Just because a broken wire still works doesnt mean you should leave it exposed.

You are using the performance as the ONLY reason you are contradicting me. The reason being is NOTHING ELSE is good about the cooler. Just because you pile a bunch of crap together and it makes a decent crap sandwich doesnt mean its still not a crap sandwich.

I have said it and will say it again what I am complaining about has NOTHING to do with performance. It performs decently I again WONT argue that.

THAT DOESNT MAKE IT A GOOD COOLER!


----------



## dougb62




----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wabbit16*
> 
> I think it all boils down to price. Whenever someone mentions a cheap, good air cooler, 8/10 people will recommend the 212 mainly because it is a huge improvement over stock (I am assuming people choose the 212 as their first cooler) and it is very affordable for what you pay.
> 
> Mine also moved a bit after installation, but it wasn't anything serious and I did not feel as if it was unsafe in any way. No cooler is perfect and the 212 certainly doesn't pretend to be that. It does what it does - cheaply and without frills
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think this is why the hyper212 has so much hype. Its such an improvement over stock that everyone thinks its awesome. If compared to other products it falls short quality-wise.
> 
> I really dont like the rotation feature. It doesn't move much as you mentioned but a single degree movement causes friction and moves thermal paste. Everytime you put on or take off the fan it rotates back and forth. Even if the thermal paste is half dry this would cause air holes and degrade thermal paste. I just dont trust that it does this at all. Very irritating I shouldn't have to feel like I should replace my thermal paste after popping the fan on and off. Then if I dont could lose performance due to thermal paste being mucked around.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *totalownership*
> 
> huh?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its not all about performance. How does this not make sense? You would take a heatsink that performs better over one that is better all around (that might not quite perform as well)?
> Thats your choice but it doesn't seem right to me. Buy by overall product not performance.
Click to expand...

Logic NOOOO! You know there is NO place for that on the INTERWEBZ!
















Ok back to all seriousness now!

You raise some valid points. I do think that the mounting system could be better and that the overall quality could be better but with that being said it is still a great product. I do however disagree on the cleaning of the base when re-applying TIM. That argument can hold true to the older PLUS and the original 212. But the EVO addressed that problem with a milled base. Yes there are still small cracks that can be hard to clean out, but with a nail brush and a little soapy water it really is not that hard to clean. Yes I also did not like the fact that the cooler moved around a little. But if you are careful when you mount it you should be fine. Also once it is installed with its fans on why would you want to mess with it again? Remember a more advanced mounting system would have hurt the price and when you consider the price of the older Hyper's you can look past the mount. If you think about the performance and quality you get for the price (not the 212X here) you get an amazing little cooler. As the poster above me said most of used used the 212 PLUS/EVO as our first jump to aftermarket cooling. We did that mainly due to recommendations and reviews. Remember review sites compare their products to what competitors have out at the time. And when the 212, PLUS and EVO's were released not many things in the $30-35 range could hold a candle to what the 212 could do. In my experience my EVO is still an amazing machine. I went to a CLC as an upgrade to my EVO. I went for a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro and that gave me ZERO improvement to my 212. I was still sitting at 55C load on my Phenom. I tried re-applying TIM and reseating the cooler and I also lapped the base of the cooler but alas the Thermaltake could not improve on my 212. Maybe I got a bad unit (Thinking about it I'm going to RMA it as it should still be under warranty.) Yes times have changed and there are much more competitive budget coolers from other brands and to that CM gave us the 212X. But as a whole the X is just an evolution of an already established product. So people will by it because of experience from the Hyper's. But the X is the ugly duck of the litter. At around $60 per unit and almost zero difference between the X and its older siblings I see no reason to charge double for it. The 212X is a pointless unit and I think many buyers are just better off going for an older 212 or one of the competitor products!


----------



## dmfree88

I had the evo it still had cracks in it (very minor but mostly it was the rails coming together that was irritating). I agree with you though its understandable to be able to look past the cheap mount in order to have good performance for dollar. I still have trouble getting past the rotation as its not even worth the $30 to me personally. But I could see it being a viable upgrade for some. I still would prefer something in the same price range with less performance and better quality parts myself, but i could understand going that way.

I also still feel though that its being falsely portrayed as better then it really is. It is a decent performing rig, but each specific part is not really good in any way so your really like i mentioned just getting a decent crap sandwich.

I also think you must have some sort of pump problem or something cause you should be getting much better performance with your TT water 2.0. I have heard of people taking apart there blocks and finding chunks inside blocking flow on some newer clc. Not sure if you can take apart the block on the 2.0 but might be worth checking.


----------



## Alastair

Yeah. You are right though. Nowadays there are better. True Spirit 120 and the likes. I think the other manufactures had to step-up their budget cooler designs after the 212 came along. So yes the 212 is getting a little long in the tooth. But we can thank it. Because of its performance/price AT the time, I think a lot of competitor companies were forced to innovate on a budget. And in the end as consumers we benefit in the end. I think the 212X will be the last of the venerable 212 series. After this I think we will see some more radical ideas to step-up the cooling game in the $30-40 range. And for that CM we thank you. JUST FIX THOSE DAMNED MOUNTS!

Well I ordered the Water 2.0 December last year. I don't know what the warranty length is but I am sure it is a year at least. I will ask my dealer if they do cash refunds and if not then I will get it RMA'ed and sell it. I never bothered to open it up to look if it needed cleaning. I just boxed it and went custom water.


----------



## totalownership

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> YEAH OK! comparison fail!


If you didn't get the ANALOGY , not comparison btw, then the fail is definitely on me.... for even trying to explain to you.

Let's see, a cpu cooler that cools a cpu nicely is a fail because all it does is cools the cpu nicely but nothing else......


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> a·nal·o·gy
> əˈnaləjē/
> noun
> noun: analogy; plural noun: analogies
> 
> 1.
> a comparison between two things, typically on the basis of their structure and for the purpose of explanation or clarification.


just because something does its job decently enough doesn't make it great. thanks for trying. feel like im at a white supremacist meeting trying to explain to everyone why its ok to be black. might be true but no-one wants to hear it.


----------



## totalownership

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> ....... its ok to be black. *might* be true......


And I feel like the guy standing next to you at said meeting saying "WOW, thanks for the ringing endorsement"

I think I'll just ..


----------



## dmfree88

only took you 5 hours to dismantle my words to be something you wanted. congrats! and yet again irrelevant.


----------



## totalownership

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> only took you 5 hours to dismantle my words to be something you wanted. congrats! and yet again irrelevant.


Well I actually do use the computer for more than message boards. I didn't overclock it just to type. Didn't know I had a time frame in which to reply.
Other things I do instead of "foruming":














and dude lighten up , I really didn't take that quote as what you really meant in that fashion. If I did you would have got a PM. I was jabbing at you, after all you did leave an easy return to hit.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> you guys are all spitting performance metrics at me like it matters. i dont care how well it performs. the mount rotates and ruins thermal paste, you should NEVER have a heatsink that moves AT all after installation. I dont care what ANYONE says this is NOT good for thermal paste and if someone were to let there paste dry out and go too far (not that you should), then remove a fan or something they would destroy paste and possibly cause damage or problems. The mounting hardware is not safe for your cpu, thats not ok. Also I had to bend the mount to get the posts to line up, aswell as the riser's dont fit in the backing plate well and tend to spin even though they are D shaped so they wont move.
> 
> I understand most of you saying that its a big price difference. here its a little different the 212x is overpriced right now and for just a few bucks more the phanteks ph-tc14pe would be a huge improvement (difference is literally 10 dollars). If they fixed the mount problem on the 212x then i would probably be ok with it being a reasonable heatsink.
> 
> The issue still remains that its not a good product. Again I am not saying it doesn't perform well but there are similar products as I mentioned that would perform similar that are around the same price, that are better quality products IMO. I would even take a thermaltake frio over this cooler (and the frio's mount sucks too). I am not saying the 212 doesn't perform well but there are better quality options atleast in the USA for around the same price. And comparing to the 212x thats going for $60 here you could get the phanteks ph-tc14pe for around $70. I understand if theres not alot of options where your from. The 212 might be the best option.
> 
> The truth is its not that good of a product and most of the people here are blinded by the fact that they have never compared it to something of similar performance, but better quality. Sure it took you to 4.5ghz on a i5 processor. But did you try a thermaltake frio, or a truespirit 140, or a Dark knight II OR anything of similar performance but atleast better quality. I can put good fans in a frio and out-perform a hyper212 due to the better fin assembly.
> 
> My point is you could have pushed your processor that far with a better quality product for around the same price. and even if it didn't push it quite as far, it would still be a better product and IMO a better option.
> 
> I apologize if I sound like I am dogging the product especially on a page that so many people are fans. But this is the biggest hype ive ever seen over a pile of crap its ridiculous.
> 
> Problem is there is nothing good about this cooler asside from performance. The fan is weak static pressure and after 6 months makes funny clicking noises (i have case fans from apevia that sound better). The heatsink itself is OK but needs tighter fins you dont see hardly any improvements from fan upgrades or even adding a pull fan. The heatsink surface is less then flat and thermal paste gets trapped in the corners of the rails causing difficulties when cleaning to replace paste. The mounting system is horribly difficult and spreads paste un-evenly, The mounts dont line up properly without some serious effort. The mount rotates when fully applied therefore causing damage to thermal paste. When the fan is put on/removed it causes you to rotate the heatsink, causing these problems. The backing plate is the only reasonable design but truthfully its thinner then the AMD stock backing plate and not that special, and the hardware that connects to it doesnt work properly (D shaped risers still spin as D shaped hole is too big). There is NOTHING I can say good about this cooler EXCEPT its reasonable performance. Correct me if I am wrong but does any of this deserve a good rating? Check my review this thing is boohoo.


You're over-emphasizing things.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> There is NOTHING I can say good about this cooler EXCEPT its reasonable performance. *Correct me if I am wrong* but does any of this deserve a good rating? Check my review this thing is boohoo.
> 
> 
> 
> You're over-emphasizing things.
Click to expand...


----------



## joelk2

ordered one of the hyper 212 evos today for delivery tomorrow.

looking forward to getting this in my rig, my stock fan is so loud


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelk2*
> 
> ordered one of the hyper 212 evos today for delivery tomorrow.
> 
> looking forward to getting this in my rig, my stock fan is so loud


What are you cooling?


----------



## joelk2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> What are you cooling?


ill be cooling the 4670k, am yet to order that though. should be ordered within the next few days


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joelk2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> What are you cooling?
> 
> 
> 
> ill be cooling the 4670k, am yet to order that though. should be ordered within the next few days
Click to expand...

Should be able to keep that pretty cool with a Hyper


----------



## joelk2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Should be able to keep that pretty cool with a Hyper


thanks, im hoping so.

ordered the cpu/mobo now too.

looking forward to getting those in my rig.

new GPU is next in line but that will be in Jan.


----------



## chiznitz

Hey all new 212 plus owner here...I've been doing some research but I'm left with a couple questions.

I have an antec 900 case that has a 200m fan on the top.
I've ordered 3 120mm bgears fans that have a slightly higher static pressure than the stock blademaster fan.
I have ordered 1 slim 120mm fan to blow on my cpu socket (modified the backside of case to allow for it) Drops my socket temps 7-10C
I have 2 120mm antec fans that came with the case

On to the question...

Should I place my 212 plus with a pull fan pointed directly at the 200m case fan on top or should I place it the standard way blowing towards the back?

The 3 bgears fans I have on order are higher cfm and static pressure than any fans in my case currently. Should I place one of them as my pull on the 212 plus and move the blademaster fan?

I was thinking of using a bgears for rear exhaust, 1 pull on the 212 plus and 1 for an intake.
This leaves me with the blademaster fan and the stock antec 120mm.

I guess my 2nd question would be, what are the recommended configurations with these fans for optimal performance w/ the 212 plus?


----------



## m4paws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> The 3 bgears fans I have on order are higher cfm and static pressure than any fans in my case currently. Should I place one of them as my pull on the 212 plus and move the blademaster fan?
> 
> I was thinking of using a bgears for rear exhaust, 1 pull on the 212 plus and 1 for an intake.
> This leaves me with the blademaster fan and the stock antec 120mm.
> 
> I guess my 2nd question would be, what are the recommended configurations with these fans for optimal performance w/ the 212 plus?


If you decide to do a push/pull on the Evo, I would recommend using 2 of the same fans, for example 2 of the Bgears (very nice fans, btw, I have one and wouldn't mind getting another).


----------



## m4paws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> the fact remains IT MOVES WHICH IS NOT GOOD.


Mmm....mine doesn't move. Are you sure you've got it tightened down well, including the backplate?


----------



## dmfree88

Every single person ive talked to that owns one it moves ur the first tthat it doesnt. It rotates a couple degrees each way because the stopper on the mount is not tight. Theres no way to tighten the gap between the metal post and were it slides in


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m4paws*
> 
> Mmm....mine doesn't move. Are you sure you've got it tightened down well, including the backplate?


Technically it doesn't move if you aren't touching it but it definitely moves if you try and pull the fan off or just push it. I thought I installed mine wrong last week when i got it, had to come to the forums to see others have same issue.


----------



## killacam7478

Hey Everyone,

I joined overclock.net a while back to ask a few questions about overclocking when I started my first computer build (ever). Came across this thread when I was trying to find additional fan brackets for my Hyper 212+. Been reading through the pages, a lot of good discussion! Just thought I'd add my random thoughts.

Added a second fan for push/pull, and as many said, didn't have a huge impact (maybe 1 or 2 degrees Celsius), a Corsair Air Series SP120 (the performance one, rather than quiet). The push fan is the stock one that came with the cooler. I was thinking to replace it with the same Corsair Air Series, but a bit nervous it will bump into my RAM sticks. I was going to get the PWM one because that's what the stock one is. I have a fan controller (NZXT Sentry 2) powering the pull fan. I actually spent a bunch of time buying fans and adding them in my case, but oddly enough, I don't think any have made that big of a difference (the difference is negligible when I am using Prime and have all my fans on vs. none on - none meaning the ones controlled by my Sentry 2). 8 fans in total in my case. Oh well, it's been fun doing it and it looks nicer.

My temps are usually 34-38C idle, then 68-72C overclocked. I have an i5-3570k @4.5Ghz, 1.185v Vcore (although my monitor usually says it's lower than that), running Mac OS X / Win7 (dual boot). Think I got lucky on my processor, I've been able to overclock without taking the Vcore too high. My cooler definitely moved a little bit when I was adjusting my push/pull fans, but I don't think it made an impact as my temps were the same before and after (again, slightly less after the pull fan was added). Don't think I'll be changing coolers anytime soon, but that new X looks sleek!


----------



## joelk2

boo, the hyper 212 doesnt fit in my new case so needs to be returned.

it was nice for the short time i had it though and kept my 4670k nice and cool.


----------



## Shanenanigans

Well I ordered a 212X ( equivalent of $42 here, and the Evo was $40 ) and it should come in this week sometime. I would have tried to get a Noctua D14 ( would've cost ~$100 shipped from Amazon/eBay ) but it's out of stock at all e-tailers here and I don't have the inclination to drive all the way to get a D14. So I settled with this, knowing very well that I'll probably just get it for cooler running at same/similar speeds that I already do.

Does it still have the same bad mounts that I keep reading about here? A friend has an Evo and he complained about the HSF moving around after being mounted. Either way, he's just being lazy cuz he doesn't want to clean his D14 and install it again cuz it's a pain to install.

Also, about TIM application. I looked around and saw the 2-3 line of paste application. Since the heatpipes are practically together, is this method still necessary or will the grain of rice do? I'm a previous AMD user, where I would use a school ID to even out the TIM after putting it on the CPU.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shanenanigans*
> 
> Well I ordered a 212X ( equivalent of $42 here, and the Evo was $40 ) and it should come in this week sometime. I would have tried to get a Noctua D14 ( would've cost ~$100 shipped from Amazon/eBay ) but it's out of stock at all e-tailers here and I don't have the inclination to drive all the way to get a D14. So I settled with this, knowing very well that I'll probably just get it for cooler running at same/similar speeds that I already do.
> 
> Does it still have the same bad mounts that I keep reading about here? A friend has an Evo and he complained about the HSF moving around after being mounted. Either way, he's just being lazy cuz he doesn't want to clean his D14 and install it again cuz it's a pain to install.
> 
> Also, about TIM application. I looked around and saw the 2-3 line of paste application. Since the heatpipes are practically together, is this method still necessary or will the grain of rice do? I'm a previous AMD user, where I would use a school ID to even out the TIM after putting it on the CPU.


Same mount.

Grain of rice would do.


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Same mount.
> 
> Grain of rice would do.


Thanks. Are you sure? This is going to go on a 4670k. So that whole multiple line thing isn't necessary?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shanenanigans*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Same mount.
> 
> Grain of rice would do.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Are you sure? This is going to go on a 4670k. So that whole multiple line thing isn't necessary?
Click to expand...

No, I tried both ways before, Grain of rice method is better:


----------



## Shanenanigans

Lovely. Thanks!


----------



## killacam7478

I actually went another way and covered an extremely thin layer on the entire surface. It took a long time to get it evenly spread and ensure no bubbles or dust, but it seems to be working well. I used the paste that came with the Hyper 212 +.


----------



## ski-bum

Coolermaster Hyper 212

Are you guys using this cooler with X79 chipset boards?

I installed one on a new build for my son using a i7-3930K.
Granted, I'm only using the stock fan (which is noisy when it revs up) but my temps are terrible.
During Prime95, the mobo set on XMP (with 1600mhz memory) and everything else on stock, temps were climbing to 85 degrees.
I stopped the test because they were still climbing. Took everything apart. Reseated the cooler and tried again, with the exact same results.
I said the fan is noisy, but don't think that is the problem. It seems to be up to speed and AIDA64 is showing that it's at full RPM. The harmonics from it are noisy. I tried my Coolermaster TPC812 and got much better temps. Like 15 degrees better.

I'm sorry. I'm NOT a fan at all of this cooler. It's going back.
Just wanted to point out to anyone thinking of buying one for their 2011 socket setup, that you may need something beefier.

Flame away!


----------



## Shanenanigans

I absolutely hated installing the cooler. Stupid stupid process. I had lesser problems installing my Zalman. But either way, now that installation is done, idle is 33C, load is ~68C in my most stressful usage, which is CSGO. x264 encoding results in a 74-75C load temp. So not bad considering my load voltage is 1.284v.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ski-bum*
> 
> Coolermaster Hyper 212
> 
> Are you guys using this cooler with X79 chipset boards?
> 
> I installed one on a new build for my son using a i7-3930K.
> Granted, I'm only using the stock fan (which is noisy when it revs up) but my temps are terrible.
> During Prime95, the mobo set on XMP (with 1600mhz memory) and everything else on stock, temps were climbing to 85 degrees.
> I stopped the test because they were still climbing. Took everything apart. Reseated the cooler and tried again, with the exact same results.
> I said the fan is noisy, but don't think that is the problem. It seems to be up to speed and AIDA64 is showing that it's at full RPM. The harmonics from it are noisy. I tried my Coolermaster TPC812 and got much better temps. Like 15 degrees better.
> 
> I'm sorry. I'm NOT a fan at all of this cooler. It's going back.
> Just wanted to point out to anyone thinking of buying one for their 2011 socket setup, that you may need something beefier.
> 
> Flame away!


You are using a $40 cooler on a $600 processor.


----------



## ski-bum

It states it's for socket 2011....It shouldn't.
The build is going to be for an audio recording studio. The CPU won't be overclocked.
I was looking for something quiet.......this cooler isn't.
It states at low RPM it's at 9DBA.....Ya right.


----------



## dmfree88

Get a noctua with ulna adapters its silent. If u get pwm fans and dont oc it will be silent anyways. Worth the investment. You could oc and it would still be silent i got a D14 and it ocs my 8350 to 4.5 with the ulna adapters, cool and silent. Have seen reviews of it running stock i5 processors with no fans passive and it still works great


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ski-bum*
> 
> It states it's for socket 2011....It shouldn't.
> The build is going to be for an audio recording studio. The CPU won't be overclocked.
> I was looking for something quiet.......this cooler isn't.
> It states at low RPM it's at 9DBA.....Ya right.


Again, you can't expect much from a $40 cooler, especially on a $600 processor.


----------



## InVeNtOr

i looked through a few of these posts (man 598 pages is a lot!) and i didn't see this paired with the FX-8320 or FX-8350. does this cooler work very well with that chip that runs that hot? i know this is the Hyper 212 forum, so i'm just asking, not trying to start a riot. lol. i was thinking of using it and maybe 2 fans on it to compensate. thanks for any help or stearing me in the right direction.


----------



## Shanenanigans

Well, multiple tests have shown that adding a second fan doesn't help the Hyper 212 Evo much.

Personally, I don't think the 212 series heatsinks have the capability to cool an octa-core efficiently, if you want to overclock. Just check it out on the interwebs though.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> i looked through a few of these posts (man 598 pages is a lot!) and i didn't see this paired with the FX-8320 or FX-8350. does this cooler work very well with that chip that runs that hot? i know this is the Hyper 212 forum, so i'm just asking, not trying to start a riot. lol. i was thinking of using it and maybe 2 fans on it to compensate. thanks for any help or stearing me in the right direction.


You must not have got to far







. My 8350 did not like the hyper212. Check my review for more info. Highly recommend a double tower like the nh-d14 or ph-tc14pe or similar. Otherwise you might aswell use stock cooling. Hyper 212 is a waste of money for something like an 8350


----------



## InVeNtOr

yeah i started from 1, went a while, then started at the end and only went back a few. lol. thanks for the info. that cooler will add to the final cost. not a biggie, i just need to know the range i'm looking at. i'm aslo looking into an A series, but from what i have read, the hyper 212 does a pretty good job at keeping it cool.


----------



## dmfree88

If u plan to stay under 4.3ish ghz then you should be fine performance wise. Personally if i were only planning an oc that high id rather have a true spirit 140 or a tt frio or something with a better mounting system atleast

Check my review if u can deal with the things ive mentioned then the 212 is probably fine if u got a good deal


----------



## InVeNtOr

thanks for the info. however, i didn't see anything listed as "true spirit 140" or "tt frio". i'm going to search for your review......


----------



## stubass

dmfree88 was saying to look at his 212 EVO review and was recommending something like the true spirit 140 or a tt frio


----------



## ski-bum

It won't cool my six core i7-3930K very well at all.
My Cooler Master TPC812 does a pretty good job without getting into the HUGE coolers.


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ski-bum*
> 
> It won't cool my six core i7-3930K very well at all.
> My Cooler Master TPC812 does a pretty good job without getting into the HUGE coolers.


i would expect the 212 wouldnt be that great for your 3930k..
the TPC812 yeah it would do a better job.


----------



## ARSD

TPC812 was designed for 300W TDP while 212 family was designed for 180W TDP.
I read from somewhere cooler master official site that i can't remember.


----------



## ski-bum

Why do they advertise socket 2011 then?

My bad... Maybe their talking about the 3820 / 4820.


----------



## InVeNtOr

that coolers looks awesome. has there been any comparing to the 212? i'm also thinking of the richland (A10-6800k) and so far i've read that it gets hot, but not too bad.


----------



## itsnick123

Hi guys, this might not worth starting a new thread so I'll just ask it here.

I've just recently build my own rig with a 4670k and the 212 plus, stock clock, stock voltage and stock fan configuration. I'm experiencing high idle temperature, around 38-41 but normal (?) load temperature at around 65-67 after an hour or so running prime95. I'm wondering what might be the caused?

My room ambient temperature is around 24 celsius with air condition on, otherwise it would be around 29-31 celsius (Doesn't seems to change my cpu idle temperature). I'm using prolimatech pk-2 (applied rice grain size in the middle). If it matters I've also failed my first attempt by applying too much compound, it spilled over to the side of the cpu and stuck there since (I've tried my best to clean as much of them off as possible).

Please let me know if you guys need anymore information to help me diagnostic my problem! Thanks!


----------



## ski-bum

Swapped the Hyper 212 for the Phanteks PH-TC12DX for only $15.00 more and it dropped my temps by over 12 degrees.


----------



## Rar4f

What is the square thing made of below the 212 evo 's copper pipes?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rar4f*
> 
> What is the square thing made of below the 212 evo 's copper pipes?


The heatsink is made of copper and aluminium.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> The heatsink is made of copper and aluminium.


Not the heatsink, but the part that connect to the cpu surface (ihs?).
Its right below the copper pipes when they stick out:


That chalk looking square thing.


----------



## stubass

It's aluminium



http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-212-evo.html


----------



## Rar4f

Damn. That means i can't use Liquid Pro. Its at a reasonable price at my location, and the very best TIM.
The second and third option are either very expensive or not being sold.

Thank you for your help.


----------



## dmfree88

Can you get mx-4 or even mx-2? Both great options usually reasonable price.


----------



## Rar4f

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Can you get mx-4 or even mx-2? Both great options usually reasonable price.


Yes, and i already bookmarked MX-4 page (shop)







Thanks for asking!


----------



## InVeNtOr

how big of a difference is the old version "plus" vs. the new "evo" i only ask because the plus is now $25 and the evo is $36. if the pics in the description are correct, it looks like the evo has an all copper bottom. i am wondering if saving the $11 is worth it. not OCing, but this rig stays on 24/7 (not my decision).


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> how big of a difference is the old version "plus" vs. the new "evo" i only ask because the plus is now $25 and the evo is $36. if the pics in the description are correct, it looks like the evo has an all copper bottom. i am wondering if saving the $11 is worth it. not OCing, but this rig stays on 24/7 (not my decision).


The difference between the Plus and the Evo is the presence of continuous-direct-contact in the Evo. If you look at the base of the Plus, the heat-pipes contact the processor directly, but the pipes themselves are seperated from each other and there're huge drains between them and the aluminium base. The base of the Evo on the other hand has heat-pipes that stick together and still contact directly to the processor.


----------



## InVeNtOr

ok, that's what the pictures say. while i'm on this subject, is there a preferred thermal paste? i've used the artic silver 5 before, but the last build i used what cooler master supplied. i think i bought the "EVO" last time. again, no over clocking, but this rig stays on 24/7. i was actually going to buy something that i though might do a better job, but in reality, i don't think it needs it.


----------



## dmfree88

Most recommend MX-2 or MX-4. 4 being the better of the two. Non-conductive, non-capacitive, non-curing, no bleeding and a 8 year warranty on both products. Doesn't get much better then that especially for generally cheaper then AS5:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380400542190?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Theres also IC Diamond. I have heard good things about but havent tried myself. Its a bit more spendy though. 1.5g for 7.99:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IC-Diamond-7-Carat-1-5g-Thermal-Compound-Paste-Grease-ICD7-NEW-/330961060105?pt=US_Thermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item4d0ed10109

While the Mx-4 was 4g for $7.26

IIRC IC diamond has better performance then MX-4 so if your strictly doing it to squeeze some more out of your cooler then IC diamond is probably the way to go. I still wouldn't expect much though great thermal paste only improves by like 5 degrees if your lucky (and thats probably compared to BAD paste or BAD application). I bought some cheaper Antec paste from circuit city and it performed within variance the same as arctic silver 5. Only difference was the antec dried up faster and was a pain to remove (not that AS5 comes off the easiest either). In reality the AS5, MX-4 and IC Diamond will perform probably within 1-2 degrees of eachother and the only reason i suggest MX-4 is its cheaper and lasts 8 long years at better performance then as5 and its non-curing,non-capacitive..

If you really want to be cheap like me MX-2 is close to the same performance and is even cheaper then mx-4. Also last 8 years and comes with the same perks at slightly lower performance so really its probably the best bang for buck.


----------



## InVeNtOr

thanks!


----------



## markus23

Sir a have a question about the hyper 212 evo turbo edition w/ 2 fans and the hyper 212x, Is there any differences on performance with the evo turbo edition versus the 212x with just only 1 fan? What or which fans should i use with the 212x or evo?

Thanks for those who will reply


----------



## dmfree88

Likely the difference is minimal. The 212x would probably be the better option of the two but if your from the usa theres way better options in the same price range like the phanteks ph-tc14pe or similar. Even a used nh-d14 would be a good option. If you have minimal room the ph-tc12dx (may be wrong about model name im not at my pc) would be the phantek version of the 212 with multiple color options and nuch better mounting hardware. Have seen reports of it out performing 212 aswell

edit:
it is the ph-tc12dx:

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Phanteks/PH-TC12DX/6.html

beats the 212 easily. For about the same price and around the same size. The others mentioned would still be better though if you have the room for a double tower.


----------



## markus23

Phanteks doesn't have any retail shop or stores here in the Philippines.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah your choices are limited sometimes the 212 is the way to go. but still any double tower preferred or newegg/ebay if you can. Im sure you can get one shipped. Will be worth the wait even if its a few bucks more. Or of course theres other options like thermalright silver arrow. Or maybe a thermaltake option? I mean if CM is the only choice then by all means the 212 is OK but theres generally a better option out there nowadays. Especially considering the price of the 212x if its the same there as it is here then theres got to be a better option. Even going to CLC like:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190

is a great deal right now CLC have been going down in price lately.

Or a Noctua maybe? Usually a lil more spendy but worth the extra bucks for quality.


----------



## Shanenanigans

Yeah. Unless you're cramped for space, it's better to get a better cooler. I have a 212X and it's excellent, but it JUST fits in my case, which is smaller than a mid tower. A 140mm cooler like the NH-D14 would require getting a new case altogether.


----------



## InVeNtOr

have you guys seen this deal for black friday?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106150
i think i read a few posts (well maybe pages now) back that this was a really good cooler.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shanenanigans*
> 
> Yeah. Unless you're cramped for space, it's better to get a better cooler. I have a 212X and it's excellent, but it JUST fits in my case, which is smaller than a mid tower. A 140mm cooler like the NH-D14 would require getting a new case altogether.


I thought the same thing my 212 was 1mm from the side panel. My nh-d14 is 1mm taller and it barely fit. Really not much taller then the 212 though


----------



## InVeNtOr

so the 212+ came in. does look like the pics where the pipes are separated. i have a few questions, is lapping these still a good idea or is the improvement minor? what is the best technique for applying the thermal paste? the application that i understand the most is concerning the 939 pin. (you put an amount the size of a grain of rice). is using the supplied thermal paste even worth it? should i just "upgrade" to MX-4?


----------



## dmfree88

Mx-4 will show decent improvement over supplied paste. Check this out i recommend reading it in its entirety:

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-heat-sink-heat-spreader,3600.html

Also iirc the hyper plus is similar to the dark knight where it must be "packed". Basically smear paste across the heatsink side and flatten it into the grooves best as possible with gloves and or a credit card until as uniform as possible. then apply small pea sized on cpu side like normal. The above guide has lots of info some1 on here just showed me that article today actually.

If packed properly should see minimal improvement vs lapping(likely still need packed after lapping).


----------



## killacam7478

Hi everyone,

I was noticing that my stock fan for my Hyper 212 Plus was a bit loud, and there was a vibration noise that would come in and out consistently (a high vibration noise, then it would dim, then back again, then dim, at an even pace). I thought something was wrong with my fan. I bought a Corsair SP 120 High Performance PWM fan (well, actually two for push/pull), and the noise continues. Anyone know what this is due to? Is this just the motherboard not powering the fan consistently? I seem to notice this with my other fans a bit too, but I have all of them hooked up to a NZXT Sentry 2 fan controller. Thanks!


----------



## InVeNtOr

so i finally put the rig all together, and i did read that article, (thanks dmfree88!), but i have a question about my load temp. right now it's around 40C. i forgot what the other rig's temp was, but my 939 was 25C. i'm wondering if i should have at least bought the EVO, or even something better.
FYI it's running stress test now (OCCP), going on 8 hours. i need to run prime 95 but i need to do some reading first. i had no idea how to set it up. it looked like it would start then just stop, no errors though. the i7-3770K is OC'ed to 4.5ghz, so not a bad jump. 1GHz for free isn't too bad. stock everything else.


----------



## m3incorp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Mx-4 will show decent improvement over supplied paste. Check this out i recommend reading it in its entirety:
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermal-paste-heat-sink-heat-spreader,3600.html
> 
> Also iirc the hyper plus is similar to the dark knight where it must be "packed". Basically smear paste across the heatsink side and flatten it into the grooves best as possible with gloves and or a credit card until as uniform as possible. then apply small pea sized on cpu side like normal. The above guide has lots of info some1 on here just showed me that article today actually.
> 
> If packed properly should see minimal improvement vs lapping(likely still need packed after lapping).


That was a pretty interesting article.


----------



## InVeNtOr

so does anyone have an opinion on a 40 degrees C on idle? i have a $10 newegg burning a hole in my pocket and black friday deals that are too good to pass up!


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> so does anyone have an opinion on a 40 degrees C on idle? i have a $10 newegg burning a hole in my pocket and black friday deals that are too good to pass up!


What's the ambient?


----------



## InVeNtOr

my bad, i should have listed that. ambient temp is 70F. my mother board sensor says it is 25c so just about right (77F). i just looked at OCCT and just 1 minute in, at 100% load the temp is at 50C.

edit:
using the Click to bios II (MSI Z77A-G45), the cpu temp is showing 33-36C. it doesn't show MB temp. i have finally tied all the wires and closed the case. ambient temp is still in the 70F range. just going by with the thermal stat says.


----------



## raptors24

Hyper 212 evo on i7 4770K stock speed. No OC.

average 30C........... 57C max temp when gaming/benching.

is this okay temp?

used artic silver 5 did I goof it?

should have used mx 4 instead?


----------



## dmfree88

Sounds right. You put the i7 beast under sub-par cooling. Shoulda went bigger


----------



## InVeNtOr

i really want to know the answer to this....i have almost the same issues....

Hyper 212 PULS on i7-4770K OC'ed to 4.5ghz

40 average 63 running OCCT for 3+ hours

used stock thermal paste.

(i know it shows 30, but on the MSI bios or "click to bios" it shows it around 40)



edit: i just saw the replay. ok, so if the evo is better than the plus, and his is "sub-par" then what would be a better choice? i have a normal ATX case, plenty of room, the plus at least has plenty of room. i guess i was under the impression what my idle temps were ok. now all the black friday monster deals are gone.
do you suggest i leave it or invest in some MX-4 and a "better" cooler?

edit: Cooler Master TPC 812 $40 (after the MIR). i have no idea if that's even a good cooler. it comes from the same family, so it should be good.....would this cooler be something i should consider?????


----------



## raptors24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Sounds right. You put the i7 beast under sub-par cooling. Shoulda went bigger


Thanks for answer.

Don't have any plans to overclock yet.
Very light gamer. Just wanted to see if these numbers are good enough for 4770k.

I was interested in dh-14 but not sure how it would fit corsair 200r.


----------



## automaton

I am using the evo but my fan speed is 1780 is this normal?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptors24*
> 
> Thanks for answer.
> 
> Don't have any plans to overclock yet.
> Very light gamer. Just wanted to see if these numbers are good enough for 4770k.
> 
> I was interested in dh-14 but not sure how it would fit corsair 200r.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1183203/noctua-nh-d14-compatibility-list

not sure if someone replied to it the list isnt updated anymore but people still reply so check the replies for the 200r. Probably doesnt fit though the 200r is fairly small and the 300r already needed the side fan removed. But if you fit the hyper212 you could probably fit it. its only 1mm taller then the 212 but it is alot wider too.

Anyways if your staying at stock your probably fine with the 212. You should be able to push atleast a small overclock out of it. Otherwsie MOAR POWER!


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> i really want to know the answer to this....i have almost the same issues....
> 
> Hyper 212 PULS on i7-4770K OC'ed to 4.5ghz
> 
> 40 average 63 running OCCT for 3+ hours
> 
> used stock thermal paste.
> 
> (i know it shows 30, but on the MSI bios or "click to bios" it shows it around 40)
> 
> 
> 
> edit: i just saw the replay. ok, so if the evo is better than the plus, and his is "sub-par" then what would be a better choice? i have a normal ATX case, plenty of room, the plus at least has plenty of room. i guess i was under the impression what my idle temps were ok. now all the black friday monster deals are gone.
> do you suggest i leave it or invest in some MX-4 and a "better" cooler?
> 
> edit: Cooler Master TPC 812 $40 (after the MIR). i have no idea if that's even a good cooler. it comes from the same family, so it should be good.....would this cooler be something i should consider?????


just noticed your post sorry, the only real option for overclocking a i7 or a amd fx8xxx is either water cooling or double tower air coolers. I do not recommend AIO unless you are getting a sweet deal on ATLEAST a h100i. Otherwise I would highly recommend a double tower like noctua nh-d14 or phanteks ph-tc14pe or silver arrow sb-e or alpenfohn k2 or dark rock pro 2.

If you can afford $150ish theres water kits on frozencpu that are worth the extra investment because you can always upgrade and or replace parts as needed. IMO CLC is a temporary use item that usually only lasts a year or so (Cause you cant clean it, although some get 3-4+ years use) and always runs the risk of failure. If an air coolers fan dies you get another one, easy fix. But really you will have to get a decent double tower to get a real oc out of an i7.

Not familiar with the TPC it does have a nice thermal limit of 300w which means it should cool well but ive never seen or heard of anyone using one though.


----------



## InVeNtOr

thanks for the info. i couldn't find the last 2 coolers you listed but the entire build i have been eyeing the phanteks ph-tc14pe (blue version) (PH-TC14PE_BL). it's a bit much so i tried to save a few bucks and get the plus when it went on sale. i really liked how the blue matches the MSI blue.
so the TPC is a gamble?
in a nut shell, are the temps shown too high? should i spend the cash and get something better? this is an office rig so it shouldn't be working too hard. i guess i thought the i7 would cool as well as the i5 because the Evo i bought for the i5 worked very well (even OC'ed to 4.5).
what should the temps be at (range)?


----------



## dmfree88

i dont have an i7 myself so i cant be sure. It seems right compared to others that come through here. I can tell you i used it on a fx-8350 and it wasnt pretty







. 4.3ghz was my max


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptors24*
> 
> Thanks for answer.
> 
> Don't have any plans to overclock yet.
> Very light gamer. Just wanted to see if these numbers are good enough for 4770k.
> 
> I was interested in dh-14 but not sure how it would fit corsair 200r.


The NH-D14 should fit in the 200R.

Look this picture *here* about the 200R and the Phantek PH-TC14PE.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InVeNtOr*
> 
> i really want to know the answer to this....i have almost the same issues....
> 
> Hyper 212 PULS on i7-4770K OC'ed to 4.5ghz
> 
> 40 average 63 running OCCT for 3+ hours
> 
> used stock thermal paste.
> 
> (i know it shows 30, but on the MSI bios or "click to bios" it shows it around 40)
> 
> 
> 
> edit: i just saw the replay. ok, so if the evo is better than the plus, and his is "sub-par" then what would be a better choice? i have a normal ATX case, plenty of room, the plus at least has plenty of room. i guess i was under the impression what my idle temps were ok. now all the black friday monster deals are gone.
> do you suggest i leave it or invest in some MX-4 and a "better" cooler?
> 
> edit: Cooler Master TPC 812 $40 (after the MIR). i have no idea if that's even a good cooler. it comes from the same family, so it should be good.....would this cooler be something i should consider?????


*1)* I don't know how good is the OCCT but from I've learned here I would recommend the IBT and Prime95.

Look this post here.

*2)* I don't know about MSI but I would recommend to use CoreTemp, HWMonitor or the RealTemp.

I have an Asus board, both the bios and the buil-in utility doesn't show the core temps.
The temp seems to be most likely the CPU TCase.

*3)* In my opinion 4.5 GHz for the I7-4770K is a good result for a budget cooler.

I think that to have the same performance with a ivy 3570K or sandy 2500K these chips will need reach 4.8 GHZ with high end coolers such like the H100 or NH-D14.

*4)* From I've heard the Evo is most likely not much better than the Plus.

Look here.

*5)* The 812 would be not a good choice for who already owns the 212.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1308254/cooler-master-tpc-812#post_18208263

http://www.overclock.net/t/1201274/cooler-master-tpc812-cooler/30


----------



## InVeNtOr

ok, no issues here now. i downloaded Real Temp and HWMonitor and those two programs and the results from OCCT all match. i am going to assume that the MSI temps are off.


----------



## dmfree88

highly recommend hwinfo64 or hwinfo32 (depending what version 32bit or 64bit pending what os your using) its kept up to date well and if you ever have any problems they have a forum and they will fix and release a new version very promptly upon request. Also usually has ALL temps and voltages shown and labeled correctly.

MSI program you were using was likely reading the bios reading which is generally the socket temp. Which is always different from core temp. On my 8350 the socket temp is generally more then 8 degrees higher then core.. i have heard of less powered cpu actually getting a lower socket temp then core. so im sure this is dependant on mobo/processor but you always want to watch core not socket.


----------



## 21276

Anyone have first hand experience fitting the 212 plus into an Antec One? I'm considering getting the cooler for my 3570k because of the awesome price and just about anything is going to be better than the stock cooler. My only concern is the size.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> *1)* I don't know how good is the OCCT but from I've learned here I would recommend the IBT and Prime95.
> 
> Look this post here.
> 
> *2)* I don't know about MSI but I would recommend to use CoreTemp, HWMonitor or the RealTemp.
> 
> I have an Asus board, both the bios and the buil-in utility doesn't show the core temps.
> The temp seems to be most likely the CPU TCase.
> 
> *3)* In my opinion 4.5 GHz for the I7-4770K is a good result for a budget cooler.
> 
> I think that to have the same performance with a ivy 3570K or sandy 2500K these chips will need reach 4.8 GHZ with high end coolers such like the H100 or NH-D14.
> 
> *4)* From I've heard the Evo is most likely not much better than the Plus.
> 
> Look here.
> 
> *5)* The 812 would be not a good choice for who already owns the 212.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1308254/cooler-master-tpc-812#post_18208263
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1201274/cooler-master-tpc812-cooler/30


IBT and LinX gives highest temperatures.

RealTemp and CoreTemp(?) takes temperatures directly from the inside of the processor.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flatliner*
> 
> Anyone have first hand experience fitting the 212 plus into an Antec One? I'm considering getting the cooler for my 3570k because of the awesome price and just about anything is going to be better than the stock cooler. My only concern is the size.


i dont have the case personally but is it referred to as the antec performance one? if so it fits the noctua nh-d14 with no modifications so it should have no problems with the hyper212 (since the 212 is 1mm shorter and not nearly as wide).

http://www.overclock.net/t/1183203/noctua-nh-d14-compatibility-list

If its a different case im not sure and sorry for wasting your time


----------



## 21276

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> i dont have the case personally but is it referred to as the antec performance one? if so it fits the noctua nh-d14 with no modifications so it should have no problems with the hyper212 (since the 212 is 1mm shorter and not nearly as wide).
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1183203/noctua-nh-d14-compatibility-list
> 
> If its a different case im not sure and sorry for wasting your time


It isn't the performance one, but if you search for the gamer one it should come up. It's not a huge case by means but I think it should fit but probably just barely.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> IBT and LinX gives highest temperatures.
> 
> *RealTemp and CoreTemp(?) takes temperatures directly from the inside of the processor.*


RealTemp, CoreTemp and HWMonitor show about the same core temps to me.

CoreTemp is also recommended by AMD to monitor the core temps.


----------



## dmfree88

coretemp is not recommended by anyone on the amd fx-8xxx club. As it has major issues with voltage monitoring and tends to report inaccurate sensors. From day one that I have been on OC.NET the only recommended program has been hwinfo64/hwinfo32. I would highly recommend using it as its generally the most accurate and the most up to date. I use the beta and love it.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> coretemp is not recommended by anyone on the amd fx-8xxx club. As it has major issues with voltage monitoring and tends to report inaccurate sensors. From day one that I have been on OC.NET the only recommended program has been hwinfo64/hwinfo32. I would highly recommend using it as its generally the most accurate and the most up to date. I use the beta and love it.


Too bad, I didn't know about that.

This guide *here* is still recommending the CoreTemp.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> coretemp is not recommended by anyone on the amd fx-8xxx club. As it has major issues with voltage monitoring and tends to report inaccurate sensors. From day one that I have been on OC.NET the only recommended program has been hwinfo64/hwinfo32. I would highly recommend using it as its generally the most accurate and the most up to date. I use the beta and love it.


HWInfo is good but when it comes to Intel processors RealTemp is the most accurate one as RealTemp pulls temperatures directly from the probes within the processor.


----------



## dmfree88

so does hwinfo64.. theres no difference between probe temps.


----------



## Gavush

I love how my xfx 6870 DD cards match my 212evo w/ the top fin painted black (!!!)


----------



## Jaydev16

I know its heresey to speak of other coolers on the 212 discussion but what are everyone's opinions about the Coolermaster Hyper TX3 EVO and the Deepcool GAMAXX S40 fans?I'm on a tight budget and the 120mm fans that I can buy are those two.Which would be better?


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaydev16*
> 
> I know its heresey to speak of other coolers on the 212 discussion but what are everyone's opinions about the Coolermaster Hyper TX3 EVO and the Deepcool GAMAXX S40 fans?I'm on a tight budget and the 120mm fans that I can buy are those two.Which would be better?


But the TX3 uses 92mm fans.


----------



## Hardballer45

Has anyone tried using the new CM Jet Flo fans on their cooler? I was thinking of order some to replace the stock fan that came with my 212.


----------



## Jaydev16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> But the TX3 uses 92mm fans.


Ok,then any budget fans you'd recommend?And what of the Deepcool S40?


----------



## NavDigitalStorm

Using it currently on my personal rig, 45C on all cores while gaming on Battlefield 4.


----------



## Jaydev16

Ok,seems good.Also checked the review on frostytech and it was about 4 degrees higher than the hyper 212.Seeing the price difference in India,I'm gonna go for it!


----------



## sQuetos

How far could I take a 4670k with this cooler?


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sQuetos*
> 
> How far could I take a 4670k with this cooler?


Like all CPU's it will depend on the lottery.. Since Haswell is know for it's heat my guess would be 4.2 - 4.4.


----------



## sQuetos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> Like all CPU's it will depend on the lottery.. Since Haswell is know for it's heat my guess would be 4.2 - 4.4.


lol... alright thanks


----------



## demonic186

Hey, will be joining this club just shortly! cooler is in the post







ordered back on sunday









question I have... has anyone used this cooler with an AMD FX-8120 and if so.. what temps were you getting as an average guide for what I should expect - give or take a few celsius due to differences in airflow setups.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demonic186*
> 
> Hey, will be joining this club just shortly! cooler is in the post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ordered back on sunday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> question I have... has anyone used this cooler with an AMD FX-8120 and if so.. what temps were you getting as an average guide for what I should expect - give or take a few celsius due to differences in airflow setups.


You shouldn't expect much from this cooler on an octa-core.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *demonic186*
> 
> Hey, will be joining this club just shortly! cooler is in the post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ordered back on sunday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> question I have... has anyone used this cooler with an AMD FX-8120 and if so.. what temps were you getting as an average guide for what I should expect - give or take a few celsius due to differences in airflow setups.
> 
> 
> 
> You shouldn't expect much from this cooler on an octa-core.
Click to expand...

I dont know why people do. As soon as I got my FX I moved up to full water. But as you can see I still pop around occasionally. Demonic the Hyper will not cool an overclocked 8 core FX very well. I would say the limit for 212 is probably 6 cores and even then I think that is pushing it. I think you should have gone for a double tower like a Noctua NH-D14 or Deepcool Assassin or maybe even a CLC water cooler.


----------



## demonic186

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I dont know why people do. As soon as I got my FX I moved up to full water. But as you can see I still pop around occasionally. Demonic the Hyper will not cool an overclocked 8 core FX very well. I would say the limit for 212 is probably 6 cores and even then I think that is pushing it. I think you should have gone for a double tower like a Noctua NH-D14 or Deepcool Assassin or maybe even a CLC water cooler.


I won't be overclocking it though, it will be staying at stock speed as it is more than adequate for my needs at the stock speed. I've heard of others using this CPU cooler on the FX series chips and getting good results - better than the noisy stock cooler at least by a long shot.

Had just wondered if anyone here had done so too.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> I dont know why people do. As soon as I got my FX I moved up to full water. But as you can see I still pop around occasionally. Demonic the Hyper will not cool an overclocked 8 core FX very well. I would say the limit for 212 is probably 6 cores and even then I think that is pushing it. I think you should have gone for a double tower like a Noctua NH-D14 or Deepcool Assassin or maybe even a CLC water cooler.


This is very untrue. I had a Hyper 212+ Push/Pull and a FX 8320 and it cooled it just fine at 4.4GHz. As long as you don't go crazy with OC/volts the 212 will do fine


----------



## Hardballer45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> This is very untrue. I had a Hyper 212+ Push/Pull and a FX 8320 and it cooled it just fine at 4.4GHz. As long as you don't go crazy with OC/volts the 212 will do fine


I'm curious to see what happens with my temps once I get my new fans installed and setup a push pull on my Phenom 940. So far I got it stable at 3.6 and my temps are mid 30C and low 40C under load. For how much this cooler costs I'm happy with the results.


----------



## demonic186

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> This is very untrue. I had a Hyper 212+ Push/Pull and a FX 8320 and it cooled it just fine at 4.4GHz. As long as you don't go crazy with OC/volts the 212 will do fine


Thanks durvelle27, I've opted for the 212 Evo - it should be here come Friday morning so I guess I'll just have to wait and see what temps I get, with the stock cooler it's mid 30's up to 40's just at idle temps on full load it rises to 55+ and is terribly noisy.

If the 212 Evo gives the same temps but is quieter.. fine by me, but if it is cooler and quieter.. even bloody better!


----------



## Hardballer45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demonic186*
> 
> Thanks durvelle27, I've opted for the 212 Evo - it should be here come Friday morning so I guess I'll just have to wait and see what temps I get, with the stock cooler it's mid 30's up to 40's just at idle temps on full load it rises to 55+ and is terribly noisy.
> 
> If the 212 Evo gives the same temps but is quieter.. fine by me, but if it is cooler and quieter.. even bloody better!


My 212 dropped my temps by 10C so you should see if a difference from the stock cooler especially under load


----------



## Indiegreg

Hello, i just bought the Hyper 212 evo. Its a gamble and an investment...i could have bought the H80i, but i decided that would be for a different build. I have the i5 3570k Processor, What could i expect from this unit?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indiegreg*
> 
> Hello, i just bought the Hyper 212 evo. Its a gamble and an investment...i could have bought the H80i, but i decided that would be for a different build. I have the i5 3570k Processor, What could i expect from this unit?


You can expect temps to be well within limits.


----------



## Indiegreg

My brother tried overclocking my processor with an H80i. He said it went as far as 4.3 ghz. My processor might be a dud for high overclocking, but ill see how the 212 evo works out.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indiegreg*
> 
> My brother tried overclocking my processor with an H80i. He said it went as far as 4.3 ghz. My processor might be a dud for high overclocking, but ill see how the 212 evo works out.


Then we have my 3570k running at 4.6. I even had it at 5.0 when I used my Swiftech H220. Though it took way more voltage than I would consider for daily usage. With any CPU or overclocking in general, its always a crap shoot.


----------



## demonic186

Got the CPU cooler on Saturday and managed to get it fitted today with a bit of a fuss as it didn't include decent instructions, figured it out and the good news is the CPU now runs a solid 10-15 degree's cooler on both idle and full load.

Went from around 35 at idle to 20-25 and full load has dropped from 50 to 35-40! massive improvement all round. Haven't tried any real overclocking though with the standard AMD turboboost enabled it rises to 4Ghz and stays at the same temps so it looks to be quite good.

Only thing that slightly bugs me is how it looks like it's squint when the case side is on due to my beveled window but with the case side off it's clearly not squint at all hahaha - just a minor niggle!

Have noticed there's a tiny bit of play (moves clockwise the slightest few millimeters) but it doesn't shift around on it's own so for anyone else out there don't worry too much about this, done a fair bit of scouring the net to find that this is quite common across the 212 series coolers. It keeps direct contact with the CPU at all times so there is no air bubbles in the thermal paste, so it's all good!

This was something I read on this forum and many many many others including a few from coolermaster themselves.


----------



## KRAY-SLiCK

guys can i use a coolermaster XB 120MM fan (A12025-18CB-3EN-F1) as a second fan for my Hyper 212+ ?


----------



## Hardballer45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KRAY-SLiCK*
> 
> guys can i use a coolermaster XB 120MM fan (A12025-18CB-3EN-F1) as a second fan for my Hyper 212+ ?


Almost any 120mm fan will work but make sure if you're doing a push-pull configuration that both fans are the same model and etc so that it doesn't mess with the performance of the cooler. If one fan is more powerful than the other it will reduce the cooling effect of 2 fans on the cooler.


----------



## locx

Before I had Q6600 running at stock speed with the stock cooler and IBT reported temps of 80+ :O (I believe the HSF was a bit loose though)
A week ago I received my 212 EVO and at stock speed (2.4 GHz) p95 small FFTs give me 40 C give or take and at 2.9 GHz 50-55 C! Different stress test, I know, but still that's quite a drop.

My ASUS Z87-K is on it's way being shipped here, 4670K is sitting on the top shelf already, can't wait to see how that's gonna work out!

When I get it I will quickly clean the stock cooler, reinstall it again properly and run p95 to get a more accurate result.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *locx*
> 
> Before I had Q6600 running at stock speed with the stock cooler and IBT reported temps of 80+ :O (I believe the HSF was a bit loose though)
> A week ago I received my 212 EVO and at stock speed (2.4 GHz) p95 small FFTs give me 40 C give or take and at 2.9 GHz 50-55 C! Different stress test, I know, but still that's quite a drop.
> 
> My ASUS Z87-K is on it's way being shipped here, 4670K is sitting on the top shelf already, can't wait to see how that's gonna work out!
> 
> When I get it I will quickly clean the stock cooler, reinstall it again properly and run p95 to get a more accurate result.


Try your Q6600 with IBT again. I found 10C differencee between IBT and P95.


----------



## locx

I might do that as well. I still have to run the test again with the stock cooler because I'm quite sure the test was inaccurate and right now I have the proper readings from p95 (after 19 hours of stability testing) so I could just repeat that with stock. Sure I can run IBT for 15 minutes on both to see the the difference there as well.


----------



## Kaiyoko-Desu

Would a Hyper 212 Evo be able to handle my CPU (i7 920 C0/C1 edition with 3.2ghz with 20x160 or 3.4ghz with 21x162)? I'm wanting to switch to a smaller case and finding one that I like plus fit my H100 + 1 set of fans + higher RAM slots is proving difficult.


----------



## Hardballer45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaiyoko-Desu*
> 
> Would a Hyper 212 Evo be able to handle my CPU (i7 920 C0/C1 edition with 3.2ghz with 20x160 or 3.4ghz with 21x162)? I'm wanting to switch to a smaller case and finding one that I like plus fit my H100 + 1 set of fans + higher RAM slots is proving difficult.


It should be fine to cool your I7. It just depends on if you plan on overclocking but there are a lot of people that use this cooler on the I7


----------



## Kaiyoko-Desu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardballer45*
> 
> It should be fine to cool your I7. It just depends on if you plan on overclocking but there are a lot of people that use this cooler on the I7


That's good news to hear and opens up my smaller ATX case selection significantly now.

I want this i7 OCed though moderately because for some reason my board wont let me go beyond 3.5ghz with all 6 RAM slots filled. I have it at 3.2ghz but can do 3.4ghz stable as well; still tweaking voltages and BIOS settings still.


----------



## Hardballer45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaiyoko-Desu*
> 
> That's good news to hear and opens up my smaller ATX case selection significantly now.
> 
> I want this i7 OCed though moderately because for some reason my board wont let me go beyond 3.5ghz with all 6 RAM slots filled. I have it at 3.2ghz but can do 3.4ghz stable as well; still tweaking voltages and BIOS settings still.


If the stock clock is 3.2 you should be able to get at least 3.5 but like you said it's just a matter of messing with your speed and volts until you find a good setting that is stable.

To give you an idea of how this cooler works with overclocking. My current setup is at 3.6 MHz 1.4V and it idles at 30-31C and then mid 30's under load. The stock speed for my chip is 3.0


----------



## Kaiyoko-Desu

Stock i7 920's are 2.66ghz, I have it currently 3.2ghz for now but I have done 3.4ghz before. This is with hyperthreading off for now since it doesn't play nice with BF4. I'm tweaking voltages ATM to see if I can bring temps down more use and use less power.


----------



## Hardballer45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kaiyoko-Desu*
> 
> Stock i7 920's are 2.66ghz, I have it currently 3.2ghz for now but I have done 3.4ghz before. This is with hyperthreading off for now since it doesn't play nice with BF4. I'm tweaking voltages ATM to see if I can bring temps down more use and use less power.


If you can't tell I'm not as educated in Intel as AMD but hopefully you can find a stable clock


----------



## Gavush

I have an AMD phenom II x4 965 that's oc'd from 3.4 to 3.8 and I'm at like 30 idle and up to 52-54 under full load running occt or bf4. Plenty of case ventilation and fan is off a xigmatek dark knight II. 22/23c ambient. Arctic MX-4 for thermal paste


----------



## Sannakji

So I was looking into going for a Reserator 3 for my new build, and I came across posters saying this cooler was better. Is that the case? It will be a mini-itx build, hope the cooler fits...


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> So I was looking into going for a Reserator 3 for my new build, and I came across posters saying this cooler was better. Is that the case? It will be a mini-itx build, hope the cooler fits...


No chance in hell that a Reserator 3 is worse than this man. Its a budget air cooler vs. a highish end single 120mm closed loop cooler. Reserator will win every time. The only thing Hyper 212 Evo has going for it is value. It is one of the best cheap value orientated coolers out there.


----------



## Gavush

Yes... The 212 is hands down the best cooler for the money. An excellent value. It is not the best cooler out there but it does do quite well.


----------



## Sannakji

Can I get a decent overclock with a 4770K on it?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> Can I get a decent overclock with a 4770K on it?


What is your idea of decent? I have a 3570k running at 4.6 and could run 4.8 if I wanted.


----------



## Sannakji

4.5 I guess would do me.


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> 4.5 I guess would do me.


I see no reason why not, assuming the chip does it without having to pump major voltage through it.


----------



## Indiegreg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Watagump*
> 
> What is your idea of decent? I have a 3570k running at 4.6 and could run 4.8 if I wanted.


How do you have your 3570k overclocked to 4.6? Most hit a heat wall at 4.5. Did you delid?


----------



## Watagump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Indiegreg*
> 
> How do you have your 3570k overclocked to 4.6? Most hit a heat wall at 4.5. Did you delid?


Nope, it even did 5.0 when I had my H220, but took 1.45v.


----------



## Indiegreg

Your hottest core is 72c? Not bad.


----------



## Watagump

4.8 at the same voltage.

https://imageshack.com/i/1ncapturepynj


----------



## locx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *locx*
> 
> Before I had Q6600 running at stock speed with the stock cooler and IBT reported temps of 80+ :O (I believe the HSF was a bit loose though)
> A week ago I received my 212 EVO and at stock speed (2.4 GHz) p95 small FFTs give me 40 C give or take and at 2.9 GHz 50-55 C! Different stress test, I know, but still that's quite a drop.
> 
> My ASUS Z87-K is on it's way being shipped here, 4670K is sitting on the top shelf already, can't wait to see how that's gonna work out!
> 
> When I get it I will quickly clean the stock cooler, reinstall it again properly and run p95 to get a more accurate result.


Ok, I finally received my new parts so I redid the test to make sure.

I used the same TIM, the one that came with 212 EVO, and installed it properly this time.

as a reminder 212 EVO got me down to 50-55C @ 2.9 GHz under prime95 small FFTs
Stock cooler at the same clock speed and same test got me... 74-86C! Pretty hefty drop I'd say. I tested again with 212 EVO just before reinstalling the stock cooler and this time I got 46-49C max per each core when p95 had been 15 mins running, might be because it had been running for a few weeks (not 24/7 tho) and maybe settled down a bit.

One interesting thing also, using stock cooler I couldn't run it longer than a few minutes before one core failing. It was the core #1-#2, the ones reaching for the TJMax.

Hope this gives some help to someone!


----------



## Sannakji

Would there be enough clearance for a 212 on a Asus Z-87-I? It has a daughterboard on the side...


----------



## Hardballer45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> Would there be enough clearance for a 212 on a Asus Z-87-I? It has a daughterboard on the side...


The cooler is compatible with the following:

CPU Socket:
Intel Socket LGA 1150/2011/1366/1155/1150
AMD Socket FM1/FM2/AM3+

CPU Support:
Intel: Core i7 Extreme / Core i7 / Core i5 / Core i3 / Core2 Extreme / Core2 Quad / Core2 Duo / Pentium / Celeron
AMD: FX-Series / A-Series / Phenom II X4 / Phenom II X3 / Phenom II X2 / Phenom X4 / Phenom X3 / Athlon II X4 / Athlon II X3 / Athlon II X2 / Athlon X2 / Athlon / Sempron

The issue of clearance would depend on what case you are using and if you have a side fan installed. The dimensions of the cooler are 120 x 80 x 159 mm. So just measure from your CPU to the side of your case to determine if it will fit your current setup. Additionally, you can position the cooler in a way so that it the ram will not block it from installing correctly.


----------



## Sannakji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardballer45*
> 
> The cooler is compatible with the following:
> 
> CPU Socket:
> Intel Socket LGA 1150/2011/1366/1155/1150
> AMD Socket FM1/FM2/AM3+
> 
> CPU Support:
> Intel: Core i7 Extreme / Core i7 / Core i5 / Core i3 / Core2 Extreme / Core2 Quad / Core2 Duo / Pentium / Celeron
> AMD: FX-Series / A-Series / Phenom II X4 / Phenom II X3 / Phenom II X2 / Phenom X4 / Phenom X3 / Athlon II X4 / Athlon II X3 / Athlon II X2 / Athlon X2 / Athlon / Sempron
> 
> The issue of clearance would depend on what case you are using and if you have a side fan installed. The dimensions of the cooler are 120 x 80 x 159 mm. So just measure from your CPU to the side of your case to determine if it will fit your current setup. Additionally, you can position the cooler in a way so that it the ram will not block it from installing correctly.


None of that answers my question... as I said in my post it's not the RAM I'm worried about, it's the daughterboard on the side.


----------



## Hardballer45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> None of that answers my question... as I said in my post it's not the RAM I'm worried about, it's the daughterboard on the side.


Sorry I didn't even see that part of it. After looking at the board if you mount the cooler perpendicular to the ram it may work but since it's a small board it looks like it would be a tight fit.


----------



## Sannakji

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1900127/hyper-212-evo-asus-z87i-pro.html

Apparently I'll be ok. Hopefully.

Would installing a second fan on it make a difference worth $20 in people's opinion?


----------



## stubass

Numorous tests here on OCN have shown around 2^C improvement with temps by using a second fan. You should see some testing in the OPor a link in thier sig.


----------



## rafa

hello! thank you very much for the guide, http://www.overclock.net/t/1322128/guide-installing-cooler-master-hyper-212-evo-plus-x-on-sockets-775-1150-1155-1156-1366-2011-am2-am3-fm1-fm2/60 unfortunately I saw a little late, one day exactly...

that's exactly my question, is this only because I already read it and I resolved the small twists doubt.

I have a board X58UD3R Socket GA-1366, I use the large standoffs (not marked for LGA2011) and the guide says }

should i just use the LGA2011.?
its recommended to change them?

use artic silver 5.
my temperaduras are in idle
core 0 39 c
core 1 38c
core 1 42 c
core 3 38 c.

thank you!


----------



## rafa

these are my Prime95 data

Core i7 920 no OC
CM212evo
Gigabyte GA-X58A-UD3R v2
4gb
MSI R6950 OC TwinFrozr III





wait for your opinion


----------



## eBombzor

Has anyone mounted a TY-140/3/7/1 onto the Evo? Is it even possible? If so, how?


----------



## Sannakji

Is the provided thermal paste decent or should I pay some Arctic Silver or something?

I still see so many people spreading the paste on youtube; what do people here think? Let the weight of the cooler spread it out or do it by hand?


----------



## stubass

I am not sure how the stock paste is... i used some PK1 becuase i had it lying around on my wifes rig... I just used a rice grain blob and let the heat sink spread it out on her rig. She has the EVO so there aren't large gaps between the heat pipes and the base like on the 212+


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> Is the provided thermal paste decent or should I pay some Arctic Silver or something?
> 
> I still see so many people spreading the paste on youtube; what do people here think? Let the weight of the cooler spread it out or do it by hand?


The cooler master paste isn't really that bad, much better than stock heatsink paste that came with my 955BE, got it to 29C idle and 49C on load (no oc)

As for the spreading method, misinformation spreads easy.


----------



## Sannakji

So, don't spread it?


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> So, don't spread it?


Yep, no need to waste that much.


----------



## Sannakji

Dunno how we still don't have strips of paste we can apply, like what we see pre-applied sometimes. Just put protective plastic sheets on either size; peel, place it on the CPU; peel off the other side. Easy.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> Dunno how we still don't have strips of paste we can apply, like what we see pre-applied sometimes. Just put protective plastic sheets on either size; peel, place it on the CPU; peel off the other side. Easy.


In theory it's nice, but in practice, its the reason why we never trust stock paste







, it's too......."hard"? It just doesn't spread like aftermarket thermal paste and was one of the reasons my poor phenom II 955 Be would get to 72C on STOCK.


----------



## tensionz

My PSU flopped and took my GPU fan and CPU fan with it. Shoutout to Cooler Master support for sending me a new free fan before I could even scream at my PSU.


----------



## AlexeiUnknown

Did any of you guys lapped the coller's base ? worth an effort ?


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlexeiUnknown*
> 
> Did any of you guys lapped the coller's base ? worth an effort ?


No and no


----------



## Sannakji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> In theory it's nice, but in practice, its the reason why we never trust stock paste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , it's too......."hard"? It just doesn't spread like aftermarket thermal paste and was one of the reasons my poor phenom II 955 Be would get to 72C on STOCK.


It wouldn't have to be by a bad company though. It could be by Arctic Silver.

Though I saw a tiny syringe of their today going for about 15 bucks, which is a joke.


----------



## Bomster

Just wanted to say how much I love this cooler.

£20 and allows me to get 4.5ghz (@1.125V) on my 3570k without touching 70°C!


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> Just wanted to say how much I love this cooler.
> 
> £20 and allows me to get 4.5ghz (@1.125V) on my 3570k without touching 70°C!


If you're lucky enough, you can OC up to 4.7 and stay under 80°C


----------



## SkyNetSTI

Let me join to debates with the question I have my system running with Hyper 212 evo with no any complains. Keeps my [email protected] under ~37 idle. and today i got free ZALMAN CNPS12X. It is almost x3cost, and quick reserche showed that it wont cool my cpu any better right? should I flip my 212 with cnps12x SO - ZALMAN CNPS12X VS Hyper 212 EVO and the WIN goes? thanks for comments... as for topic Hyper 212 EVO looks like best bang for a buck!


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyNetSTI*
> 
> Let me join to debates with the question I have my system running with Hyper 212 evo with no any complains. Keeps my [email protected] under ~37 idle. and today i got free ZALMAN CNPS12X. It is almost x3cost, and quick reserche showed that it wont cool my cpu any better right? should I flip my 212 with cnps12x SO - ZALMAN CNPS12X VS Hyper 212 EVO and the WIN goes? thanks for comments... as for topic Hyper 212 EVO looks like best bang for a buck!


The price/performance is really what sells the Hyper 212.


----------



## SkyNetSTI

Yeah, but should I bother myself with flipping my Hyper 212 EVO with expensive FREE ZALMAN CNPS12X... will it bring any temp decrease? or only look?
Thanks


----------



## Bomster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> If you're lucky enough, you can OC up to 4.7 and stay under 80°C


Can't seem to get stable at 4.7GHz unfortunately







.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Khaled G*
> 
> If you're lucky enough, you can OC up to 4.7 and stay under 80°C
> 
> 
> 
> Can't seem to get stable at 4.7GHz unfortunately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

What voltage did you apply ? Mine needed 1.29V for 4.6 GHz and 1.365V for 4.7 GHz, Its a big gap.


----------



## SkyNetSTI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> The price/performance is really what sells the Hyper 212.


100% True! But should I bother myself with flipping my Hyper 212 EVO with expensive but FREE ZALMAN CNPS12X... will it bring any temp decrease? or only look?
Thanks


----------



## Sannakji

Had to slide the fan up a little to accomodate my vengeance pros... hope that won't impact temps much.


----------



## PaPaBlista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyNetSTI*
> 
> 100% True! But should I bother myself with flipping my Hyper 212 EVO with expensive but FREE ZALMAN CNPS12X... will it bring any temp decrease? or only look?
> Thanks


Hyper 212 Evo is better than the Zalman. My rig dropped from a 42c idle to 32c and my loads have never even hit 60c they used to run 65 to 69, I had the Zalman cp 9700.. The hyper does a better job than most of the closed loop water coolers too.


----------



## ICE2K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bomster*
> 
> Just wanted to say how much I love this cooler.
> 
> £20 and allows me to get 4.5ghz (@1.125V) on my 3570k without touching 70°C!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaPaBlista*
> 
> Hyper 212 Evo is better than the Zalman. My rig dropped from a 42c idle to 32c and my loads have never even hit 60c they used to run 65 to 69, I had the Zalman cp 9700.. The hyper does a better job than most of the closed loop water coolers too.


*NICE...*


----------



## PaPaBlista

This enuff to join,

http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/PaPaBlista/media/PC/IMG_1088.jpg.html

http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/PaPaBlista/media/PC/IMG_1085.jpg.html

http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/PaPaBlista/media/PC/spec2.jpg.html

http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/PaPaBlista/media/PC/e1a36814-06fb-45ef-8beb-7fb4ad6def52.jpg.html


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PaPaBlista*
> 
> This enuff to join,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/PaPaBlista/media/PC/IMG_1088.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/PaPaBlista/media/PC/IMG_1085.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/PaPaBlista/media/PC/spec2.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1155.photobucket.com/user/PaPaBlista/media/PC/e1a36814-06fb-45ef-8beb-7fb4ad6def52.jpg.html


"That'll do Donkey. That'll do."









Did you add yourself to the list in the OP?


----------



## PaPaBlista

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> "That'll do Donkey. That'll do."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you add yourself to the list in the OP?


Done!
Thank you.


----------



## Sannakji

Getting about 25C at idle, that seem ok to you guys?
My RAM sticks are a little tall so I raised the fan a bit; can I in theory take it off, put it on the back, and put on an Xtraflow thin from the Low Profile cooler series? Does the fat pull more air than the skinny can push, and might that damage the fans? Are the brackets compatible with a Xtraflow thin fan?


----------



## Sannakji

Anyone?


----------



## AlexeiUnknown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> Getting about 25C at idle, that seem ok to you guys?
> My RAM sticks are a little tall so I raised the fan a bit; can I in theory take it off, put it on the back, and put on an Xtraflow thin from the Low Profile cooler series? Does the fat pull more air than the skinny can push, and might that damage the fans? Are the brackets compatible with a Xtraflow thin fan?


All I can tell you is that the idle temp is good, whats the temp under load ?


----------



## Sannakji

I can hit 55/56C on some cores in real world usage, by rendering 3D graphics. Weird thing is, Real Temp is telling me the processor is going to 3.7GHz... shouldn't it be boosting to 3.9? Or do I have to enable that somehow?

Anyone know if an XtraFlow slim will be compatible with a 212 EVO?


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> I can hit 55/56C on some cores in real world usage, by rendering 3D graphics. Weird thing is, Real Temp is telling me the processor is going to 3.7GHz... shouldn't it be boosting to 3.9? Or do I have to enable that somehow?
> 
> Anyone know if an XtraFlow slim will be compatible with a 212 EVO?


Might go to 3.9 if only a single core is loaded. If more than 1 core is loaded, it might only do 3.7.


----------



## Sannakji

OK will look into it thanks...


----------



## DiaSin

I signed up. I have a 212 Evo with a Phanteks PH-F140HP fan on a 4.7ghz i5-3570k.


----------



## writer21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> I signed up. I have a 212 Evo with a Phanteks PH-F140HP fan on a 4.7ghz i5-3570k.


What voltage and llc level?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *writer21*
> 
> What voltage and llc level?


Between a combination of offset voltage and additional turbo voltage it tops out at 1.296v at LLC level 2.


----------



## Sannakji

Putting a GPU in and upgrading to Windows 8.1 is showing me a spike of 10C in Realtemp... what gives?


----------



## Boinz

Was your CM212 fan facing down?


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> Putting a GPU in and upgrading to Windows 8.1 is showing me a spike of 10C in Realtemp... what gives?


Bottom intake to top exhaust can do that. Also, a GPU will add extra heat in the case anyway. Just not 10C IMO.


----------



## Sannakji

Still getting weird temps.

My setup is a 212 Evo, with a Xtraflow Slim up front to allow for the clearance of my RAM, reversed, because the LPcooler it's for pulls air up and out, am I correct in assuming this? And then original fan on the back, also reversed, because now it's pulling not pushing.

I have a watercooled hybrid 770 in my system, and was worried that I had the fan in the wrong way, but I reversed it and I'm getting the same temps. I'm confused. Yes I know about the arrow indicators but 34 idle with two fans seems high for a 212 Evo... must be doing something wrong.


----------



## DiaSin

You may be creating turbulance within the cooler if both fans are different speeds / pressures, but if that 34 is idle that is not a particularly bad temp.


----------



## rafa

hi, question, meanwhile i took recent measures and pics. have to make a single question.

with this pc
Core i7920 ( no oc )
4gb OCZ DDR3
GA.X58UD3R
1TB HITACHI
MSI R6950 TwinFrozr III 2GB OC Edition

and a CoolerMaster Hyper212 Evo, push and pull configuration.

whats the "normal" temps?

now, i have 34-38 idle, ( variation of 7 grades after half day of use ) and and full of 57 - 60 in load.

whats your opinion?

thx!


----------



## SLOWION

I just picked up a 212 EVO for my A10-5800K. Used to have a Hyper TX3 but this cooler is so much better. I'm seeing lower temps at slower fan speeds (noise was a priority) which is great









Kind of a tight fit in my Cougar Spike case though


----------



## Sannakji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> You may be creating turbulance within the cooler if both fans are different speeds / pressures, but if that 34 is idle that is not a particularly bad temp.


Isn't 34 idle around what to expect from a stock intel cooler? I was getting 24 before with the default fan... might try just switching back to that, but the fact that I'm using the original and an xtraflow slim makes the temps reqlly suspicious.

If the PCs been on for a while the cooler rotates with a little pressure, like when putting on a fan. Is this normal or should I tighten it a little? I reckon its pretty normal what with the grease loosening up etc. PC is off when putting on the fans of course.


----------



## AlexeiUnknown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> Isn't 34 idle around what to expect from a stock intel cooler? I was getting 24 before with the default fan... might try just switching back to that, but the fact that I'm using the original and an xtraflow slim makes the temps reqlly suspicious.
> 
> If the PCs been on for a while the cooler rotates with a little pressure, like when putting on a fan. Is this normal or should I tighten it a little? I reckon its pretty normal what with the grease loosening up etc. PC is off when putting on the fans of course.


idle temp depends on air temperature. No way intels stock cooler is better than evo 212.
What is your temp under load ?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> Isn't 34 idle around what to expect from a stock intel cooler? I was getting 24 before with the default fan... might try just switching back to that, but the fact that I'm using the original and an xtraflow slim makes the temps reqlly suspicious.
> 
> If the PCs been on for a while the cooler rotates with a little pressure, like when putting on a fan. Is this normal or should I tighten it a little? I reckon its pretty normal what with the grease loosening up etc. PC is off when putting on the fans of course.


Mine is able to rotate, but not without quite a bit of pressure. You may want to take it off and redo the paste, then tighten it down better. The way this things mounting bracket works it is not on all the way on if the screws still turn without ALOT of work,. as for those temps, thats my bad. I was thinking you were overclocked.


----------



## Sannakji

Reset the configuration to it's original state, still getting bad temps.

Could it be RealTemp not working correctly with Windows 8.1?

Getting two different readings from two different programs...


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> Reset the configuration to it's original state, still getting bad temps.
> 
> Could it be RealTemp not working correctly with Windows 8.1?
> 
> Getting two different readings from two different programs...


Try CoreTemp instead of RealTemp, I have had issues with realtemp showing wrong temps.

http://www.alcpu.com/CoreTemp/


----------



## SLOWION

More whoring of my new cooler. I know I'm late to the party but the 212 EVO is impressive


----------



## marce99

Nice thread. I'm a proud owner of an AMD FX-8350, and I recently bought an CM Hyper 212 EVO, which should be shipping in two days.
There is one thing I'd like to ask you though:
I'm in doubt regarding the temps of this CPU. I'm not currently playing or doing anything that is taxing this CPU, I only played Skyrim these days, with high texture pack and everything on ultra on 1080p, and I'm not getting anywhere near 55º, in fact, i think my temps haven't passed 50º (it's summer in my country), even my GPU (AMD Radeon HD7870 OCed) isn't reaching 65º.
I remember playing metro at full graphics and temps didn't go near 55º as well (after hours), and my GPU arose 71º, which worried me, but not too much.
The point is the CPU stock cooler: is annoying, and i suspect I'm not getting the real temps. Would you recommend any software? I've been using Hardware monitor and Open hardware monitor. I recently tried Speccy and still the same temps. I've done some underclock (2600-3000 Mhz), as I wait for my EVO, and I had no problems so far, everything running smooth, even games. I think I'll try something to tax my CPU and see if the temps arise.

My case is an Aerocool Templarius Telum Black, I have 1x120mm cooler as intake (front), 1x120mm cooler exhaust (rear), 3x120mm coolers as exhaust (top).
I've been reading these days something relating to air flow, and how a side cooler is a good option, even better than the front intake fan, but that is not an option when it comes to this case. I have an extra slot for a 120mm fan at the bottom, but it's a little messy with all the PSU cables near, and cable management is not as good as I thought with this case (so I'm considering on changing this case in the future).
I have room for a 158mm (h) CPU cooler, and the EVO is 159mm, but that's ok, I read a guy is currently using the same CPU cooler with this case.


----------



## edsai

Welcome marce99,

Look this post:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> coretemp is not recommended by anyone on the amd fx-8xxx club. As it has major issues with voltage monitoring and tends to report inaccurate sensors. From day one that I have been on OC.NET the only recommended program has been hwinfo64/hwinfo32. I would highly recommend using it as its generally the most accurate and the most up to date. I use the beta and love it.


I would also recommend the AMD Overdrive to check the core temps.

You can also visit the FX-8320/FX-8350 Vishera Owners Club.


----------



## marce99

Thanks for the info edsai. As for the temps, I tried prime95 64bit and I was relieved and dissappointed at the same time; I started testing and I reached 65º within a minute







, no under/overclock this time. So I guess these programs were not lying.


----------



## Sannakji

What is this I don't even.

That's Ceramique 2 on there... it looks... burnt???

Guess that explains the terrible temperatures.

Switched to a H80i. Much happier.


----------



## SLOWION

what's the noise of the H80i like in comparison to the EVO?


----------



## Sannakji

My system in general is very loud actually, despite having a water cooled hybrid 770 and a h80i. I need to address that. Corsair link doesn't seem to want to let me play with the curves, might play around in the bios.


----------



## roguetrip

Has anyone made a Solid plate for more pressure on the 212 Evo on a socket 1150?

I had a Xigamatek that I bought a plate off from a user here and loved it for the added pressure and the fact I could rotate the cooler on my AM2+/AM3+ rig.


----------



## Spade616

Picked up a Hyper 212X since I had to RMA my H60 v2 and I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be selling the replacement anyway. Man, this thing is crazy! Same ambient temps, 2500K @ 4.3, and my temps dont go over 61-63c on Prime95. I was getting about 73-76c with the H60. Why didn't I get this earlier?!







And I even sorta F'ed up the TIM installation since I accidentally applied about 3-4x more than whats needed, but was too lazy to clean it off and reapply all over again.









I also find it aesthetically pleasing that the pipes look rose gold rather than a rusty copper orange.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Man, this thing is crazy! Same ambient temps, 2500K @ 4.3, and my temps dont go over 61-63c on Prime95. I was getting about 73-76c with the H60. Why didn't I get this earlier?!


Yeah, there no magic in using water/antifreeze for heat transfer. It boils down to radiator area and the H60 has less radiator area than the CM 212, plain and simple.


----------



## philharmonik

I love the CM Hyper 212 EVO. I've installed it on 7 systems so far. I got one for my own PC and also got some of the CM Jetflo 120's. I can't install the jetflos though because the screws do not match. The ones that come with the Jetflos are pan head screws, so that makes mounting the fan to the heatsink impossilbe. The flat head screws that come with the heatsink are not the correct thread type, so they won't screw into the Jetflo 120's, unless you want to jack up your threads. Has anyone mounted the Jetflo 120 series to the the 212? If so, what screws did you use? Thanks!


----------



## damric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> I love the CM Hyper 212 EVO. I've installed it on 7 systems so far. I got one for my own PC and also got some of the CM Jetflo 120's. I can't install the jetflos though because the screws do not match. The ones that come with the Jetflos are pan head screws, so that makes mounting the fan to the heatsink impossilbe. The flat head screws that come with the heatsink are not the correct thread type, so they won't screw into the Jetflo 120's, unless you want to jack up your threads. Has anyone mounted the Jetflo 120 series to the the 212? If so, what screws did you use? Thanks!


Think outside the screw hole and use some wire ties.


----------



## edsai

You can make zipties screws just like this.


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *damric*
> 
> Think outside the screw hole and use some wire ties.


Used some zip ties I had laying around. Didn't even think of that! Thank you! Worked great. I'd still like to get screws sometime in the future, but this will do for the time being.


----------



## 161029

Quick update. Forgot to post photos here but rebuilt my entire rig a few months ago. I moved my RAM into the B slots instead of the A slots so I can do a push configuration instead.



Spoiler: Photos











Don't know if I need to update my entry (not that it really matters much).


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> I moved my RAM into the B slots instead of the A slots so I can do a push configuration instead.


Odd that it interferes with your ram.. My motherboard is an inch narrower than standard ATX and I still have no issues running push on my 212 evo with my lone stick of ram (It was half the price of a 2x4gb retail kit to get a single 8gb stick from a friend) in the first slot, even with a larger than standard fan.


----------



## xboxshqip

Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
keeps my i7 4770 cool 52c stressed with prime 95 and ide 24c


----------



## Krulani

Does this heatsink fit in a Asus Z87I-Deluxe, it's hard to find ITX motherboards that work wtih this cooler. Thanks in advance.


----------



## roguetrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Odd that it interferes with your ram.. My motherboard is an inch narrower than standard ATX and I still have no issues running push on my 212 evo with my lone stick of ram (It was half the price of a 2x4gb retail kit to get a single 8gb stick from a friend) in the first slot, even with a larger than standard fan.


How is that 140mm fan working out? How much cooler is it?

Currently got a pwm 120mm cougar in front and the stock in back. Rpms mis matched and wanting to try a 140mm fan now.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roguetrip*
> 
> How is that 140mm fan working out? How much cooler is it?
> 
> Currently got a pwm 120mm cougar in front and the stock in back. Rpms mis matched and wanting to try a 140mm fan now.


I can't objectively say how much difference it would make for you. I bought this fan when the stock fan went bad after 2 months of use, so I saw a drastic change. I will say this.. this is not a true PWM fan, and I am not even using the adapter that makes it PWM because it is nearly silent at full speed.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krulani*
> 
> Does this heatsink fit in a Asus Z87I-Deluxe, it's hard to find ITX motherboards that work wtih this cooler. Thanks in advance.


The 212 isn't that wider and the fan can be also placed in the pull configuration at the rear of the heatsink.


----------



## Krulani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edsai*
> 
> The 212 isn't that wider and the fan can be also placed in the pull configuration at the rear of the heatsink.


It's atually just that i'm not sure if it will interfere with the VRM daughter-board.


----------



## cpmee

I have a 212+ with a Lepa 70D 120mm in push and the stock CM 212+ 120mm fan in pull. My 212+ is mounted in a bottom to top air flow configuration. I also have a stock AMD 70mm fan blowing on my vrms that is also angled towards the cpu socket.

I just performed a test with taping the sides of the 212+ to force more air into the fins. I used 2" blue painters tape for easy removal. The test consisted of running prime95 small FFTs for 15 minutes. Room temp between tests did increase .3C, however the motherboard temp remained exactly the same at 25C for both tests so that is what I used for the reference temp.

Results: Taping the sides of the CM 212+ did reduce my core temps by .4C. Not much, but better.

The surprising (unexpected to me) thing was that it reduced my socket temps by a full 2C. I believe this is due to the air flowing out of the sides of the 212+, disrupting the air flow of the 70mm fan over the vrms and cpu socket.


----------



## Ludamister

Hey everyone!

I have recently acquired a Hyper 212 EVO and tried mounting it. However, when I do a quick prime 95 test after I boot, one of the cores jump up to 95+ and I immediately shut it down. I removed it and noticed the TIM was well spread the first time around minus the corners so I applies just a tad more in the center, mounted it down tight as I could and tried again. A few degrees less on idle but still around 95 ish on load.

This is my setup.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3k0Ox

I noticed the first page mentioning different tim application methods and such. Although I'm sure it yields better results, I'm hard pressed to think that NOT choosing that method results in me having such high temps.

I've got a little wiggle room to rotate my cooler left or right by a few minor degrees, something that apparently a lot of people have to deal with so I don't think its that. I know Haswell runs hot but there's just no way it should be running this hot. I'm simply running stock with 3.9 turbo. Haven't even started to overclock anything.


----------



## Papas

Does CM make a 212 mini? Ive got a cm heatsink that looks like a 212 but isnt as big.


----------



## Papas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ludamister*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> I have recently acquired a Hyper 212 EVO and tried mounting it. However, when I do a quick prime 95 test after I boot, one of the cores jump up to 95+ and I immediately shut it down. I removed it and noticed the TIM was well spread the first time around minus the corners so I applies just a tad more in the center, mounted it down tight as I could and tried again. A few degrees less on idle but still around 95 ish on load.
> 
> This is my setup.
> 
> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/3k0Ox
> 
> I noticed the first page mentioning different tim application methods and such. Although I'm sure it yields better results, I'm hard pressed to think that NOT choosing that method results in me having such high temps.
> 
> I've got a little wiggle room to rotate my cooler left or right by a few minor degrees, something that apparently a lot of people have to deal with so I don't think its that. I know Haswell runs hot but there's just no way it should be running this hot. I'm simply running stock with 3.9 turbo. Haven't even started to overclock anything.


Ive had best luck with the 212(ive had 2-3) by applying tiny beads along the gap of the heatsink pipes. My phenom x3 at stock went from 40's at idle and overheating at load to 24 at idles and low 40's at full load.


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papas*
> 
> Ive had best luck with the 212(ive had 2-3) by applying tiny beads along the gap of the heatsink pipes. My phenom x3 at stock went from 40's at idle and overheating at load to 24 at idles and low 40's at full load.


You had the 212 Plus, right? The Evo's pipes are all adjacent so even if I tried to fill in the gaps, I don't think I'd get as drastic a drop as that. The first time around I used my Noctua NT-H1 as I always do but the second time I used the included CM thermal paste instead.

I also tried to change the screw's positioning by moving them one notch further out in one diagonal line. It did help with screwing a lot easier this time around and it felt more firm but seems to be in vain regardless.


----------



## Papas

Sorry you are correct, 212+. Its got to be a bad mount, fan not spinning up or at full speed. Do you still have the stock hs? Could swap that out, test temps and that should give you some idea what is going on.


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papas*
> 
> Sorry you are correct, 212+. Its got to be a bad mount, fan not spinning up or at full speed. Do you still have the stock hs? Could swap that out, test temps and that should give you some idea what is going on.


Should I ramp up the fans purposely first before testing? I mean, as soon as I hit the test button, I hear them ramping up anyways.

And I had the stock heatsink on before I installed this, I never ran prime95 cause I knew it wouldn't fare remotely well but I never seen it go above 84C on the WORST day and that was at the beginning using the stock fan with the pre applied tim. On average before switching to the 212 Evo, it was around 74C while gaming.

I'm going to try just spreading the tim this time on the heat sink instead of on the processor and spread it.


----------



## Papas

Ok lets step back and troubleshoot.

On stock hs it runs warm.

On 212 evo it runs to hot

You can hear hs fan ramping up so that is good.

It can be one of 3 things

1 bad seat, it could be related to mounting hardware
2 bad tim layout
3 bad heatsink(copper hs tube issue, never seen it but possible i guess lol)

Those are the only thing it could be off the top of my head.

Are you sure you didnt edit bios to turn off/on anything when you installed new heatsink? Im really racking my brain as to what else it could be.


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papas*
> 
> Ok lets step back and troubleshoot.
> 
> On stock hs it runs warm.
> 
> On 212 evo it runs to hot
> 
> You can hear hs fan ramping up so that is good.
> 
> It can be one of 3 things
> 
> 1 bad seat, it could be related to mounting hardware
> 2 bad tim layout
> 3 bad heatsink(copper hs tube issue, never seen it but possible i guess lol)
> 
> Those are the only thing it could be off the top of my head.
> 
> Are you sure you didnt edit bios to turn off/on anything when you installed new heatsink? Im really racking my brain as to what else it could be.


What could I possibly turn off in regards to the heatsink or fans? All I did was enter bios after I installed the heatsink, checked to see all of the fan RPM's, checked my boot sequencing and then left the bios. I hadn't had this much issues with my FX 8150 or my Phenom before. I'm also thinking its something to do with the mount and/or the tim application. I've had bad tim applications but I've only lost about 5-10C max in performance before. Not an entire 20. I supposedly should be hitting around 75C with my 4770k on stock with the stock heatsink fan. I'm running Corsair SP120s in Push/Pull so perhaps 70-73C.

EDIT: HOLY CRAP. So I checked the voltage using CPU-Z and it showed 1.344V which I know is too damn high. Why is that running stock???


----------



## Papas

That high of vcore could do it lol. 1.1ish is around stock. Manually change it to 1.1 if speed is still at stock, runs prime95, watch temps and if they are good let it run for a couple hours to make sure its stable.


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papas*
> 
> That high of vcore could do it lol. 1.1ish is around stock. Manually change it to 1.1 if speed is still at stock, runs prime95, watch temps and if they are good let it run for a couple hours to make sure its stable.


Alright but how do I disable turbo for now? I'd like to set it up for adaptive voltage so that it only ramps up when needed but still can't see anywhere to disable turbo


----------



## Papas

Dont worry about disabling turbo. Just set vcore at 1.1 and try it.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papas*
> 
> Does CM make a 212 mini? Ive got a cm heatsink that looks like a 212 but isnt as big.


There is a CM heat-sink that looks like a smaller version of the 212 called the TX3.


----------



## Papas

Ty very much. Its a little boss. Cooling mt stock x3 great


----------



## Ludamister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papas*
> 
> Dont worry about disabling turbo. Just set vcore at 1.1 and try it.


Currently running Prime95 atm.

I'll post some links. Currently running Prime 95.

http://puu.sh/7SX7y.png

http://puu.sh/7SXqT.png

I believe I raised it to 1.17 then it worked. It crashed at 1.15. It's running at 3.9 Mhz atm so yeah. I'ma let it run for about two hours. Then I'll take off the tim, apply my Noctua on the heat sink itself via spreading, then mount. At 3.9ghz, and at 83C, still seems like I didn't win the silicone lottery lol

Edit: It's also worth noting that my heatsink fans are only running at around 1700-1750~ RPM and they can go up to about 2350RPM max so. No idea how to use SpeedFan to ramp them up even though they are PWM. Clueless lol.


----------



## xboxshqip

here is another one i wonted to do something like Dad2David but i need a new camera dam my cell phone lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dad2David*
> 
> Here is mine, please add me on to the club!
> 
> Cooler Master Hyper 212+ with blue led in the Phantom!


----------



## Ningi07

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xboxshqip*
> 
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
> keeps my i7 4770 cool 52c stressed with prime 95 and ide 24c


WOW







Might have to invest in 2 120m led fans... Looks pretty damn sexy compared to having 2 normal black 120's


----------



## DiaSin

Running a Corsair H80i now. The Hyper 212 Evo has been transferred to the reserves.


----------



## beetlespin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Running a Corsair H80i now. The Hyper 212 Evo has been transferred to the reserves.


Whats the temps like compared to the h80i?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beetlespin*
> 
> Whats the temps like compared to the h80i?


I dropped about 6 degrees on idle (28c idle now) and at load I am easily 20 degrees lower than I was on the 212. I could probably drop a few more degrees, at least at load, by getting some Tuniq TX-4.. The only paste I had left was the junk that came with the 212 evo.


----------



## Sannakji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> I dropped about 6 degrees on idle (28c idle now) and at load I am easily 20 degrees lower than I was on the 212. I could probably drop a few more degrees, at least at load, by getting some Tuniq TX-4.. The only paste I had left was the junk that came with the 212 evo.


... why did you strip off the pre-applied paste if all you had was the 212 paste? I'm idling at 24 with the pre-applied...


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sannakji*
> 
> ... why did you strip off the pre-applied paste if all you had was the 212 paste? I'm idling at 24 with the pre-applied...


Because the pre-applied had been used by the friend that I got it from. Isn't re-using thermal paste bad?


----------



## 21276

Just got my Hyper 212 EVO, I'll add myself to the list when I get home since the link is blocked here at work. Liking it so far but had an interesting time getting it mounted, those instructions are not descriptive enough. I didn't realize that the pins on the X bracket that holds it down could be moved if you pull them up and couldn't figure out why they wouldn't reach







.

To be fair, it's my first aftermarket air cooler, the only other aftermarket cooling I've had for a CPU was water.


----------



## Nisrock7863

Yeah, the directions that came with it are trash. I ended up having to hunt for videos on YouTube to be safe. Worked out okay, and for what it is, and the price point, it's a great little cooler.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flatliner*
> 
> Just got my Hyper 212 EVO, I'll add myself to the list when I get home since the link is blocked here at work. Liking it so far but had an interesting time getting it mounted, those instructions are not descriptive enough. I didn't realize that the pins on the X bracket that holds it down could be moved if you pull them up and couldn't figure out why they wouldn't reach
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> To be fair, it's my first aftermarket air cooler, the only other aftermarket cooling I've had for a CPU was water.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nisrock7863*
> 
> Yeah, the directions that came with it are trash. I ended up having to hunt for videos on YouTube to be safe. Worked out okay, and for what it is, and the price point, it's a great little cooler.


There's a guide somewhere here, let me find it for you.

Here it is: [Guide] Installing Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO\Plus\X on Sockets 775/1150/1155/1156/1366/2011/AM2/AM3(+)/FM1/FM2


----------



## xboxshqip

its an universal cooler so yeah it can get chaotic with all that stuff
however i suggest not looking at YT videos cos that you don't learn it you just copy paste it yeah used amd bracket at first like a total moron but then all went good infarct mounting the cooler was the only thing that eated me time on my build about 40 minutes just to figure it out


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xboxshqip*
> 
> its an universal cooler so yeah it can get chaotic with all that stuff
> however i suggest not looking at YT videos cos that you don't learn it you just copy paste it yeah used amd bracket at first like a total moron but then all went good infarct mounting the cooler was the only thing that eated me time on my build about 40 minutes just to figure it out


Punctuation marks, do you know it?


----------



## xboxshqip

no that comes natural when i breath so yeah not when i write
so yeah im not a fan of ! ?. ,


----------



## Jawswing

Just bought this for my server. Didn't trust my old H60.
You guys think I'd still be able to use all four RAM slots with this thing?
Maximus Extreme Z68 board.


----------



## saipan

depends, worst case is u turn the fans for a up/down setup instead of front to back


----------



## Jawswing

Just noticed a picture from a few posts back. Might be a problem with the Vengeance RAM I have. Looks like it'd work fine in pull though. What type of a temperature hit will I take having it in pull? Not going to be overclocking or anything. Just been looking for something quieter than the stock Intel cooler.


----------



## stubass

with just pull, people have tested and shown like a 1-2 D*C difference


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stubass*
> 
> with just pull, people have tested and shown like a 1-2 D*C difference


I support this claim. I rerouted airflow for higher efficiency (the goal was to get as much air through the case as quickly as possible), added the 120mm fan from the side panel (replaced with a 140mm fan) to the cooler, and saw temperatures rise just as quickly in I think Intel Burn Test and a drop of one whole degree.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jawswing*
> 
> Just noticed a picture from a few posts back. Might be a problem with the Vengeance RAM I have. Looks like it'd work fine in pull though. What type of a temperature hit will I take having it in pull? Not going to be overclocking or anything. Just been looking for something quieter than the stock Intel cooler.


If you want something quiet, I do not recommend you use this with the stock fan. That was one of two loud fans in my systems. I eventually got fed up with it, and I did THIS wonderful mod. 5V and it's practically silent. I'm not sure about 7V since the other loud fan makes a horrible whine when it spins fast enough, even at 7V. I don't think how you move air through the radiator matters as long as it gets through the radiator. The difference should be minimal if it even exists.


----------



## Thready

joined

I didn't want to open my PC


----------



## Erick Silver

Greetings guys. I wanted to contact the guys here in the Hyper 212 Club to get a little info.

I am on the verge of purchasing a Used Hyper 212+ with out fans. I was looking at the Corsair SP and AF fans. Are these compatible with the 212+? Also, how well will the cooler work with my 1090T? I haven't overclocked it yet.

I want to make sure that I get all the info I can before making this purchase. Thanks guys.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Greetings guys. I wanted to contact the guys here in the Hyper 212 Club to get a little info.
> 
> I am on the verge of purchasing a Used Hyper 212+ with out fans. I was looking at the Corsair SP and AF fans. Are these compatible with the 212+? Also, how well will the cooler work with my 1090T? I haven't overclocked it yet.
> 
> I want to make sure that I get all the info I can before making this purchase. Thanks guys.


The fans are stock-standard 120mm fans. You might have some issues if it doesn't have the clips for the fans to mount, however.

I'm not sure how well it will work, but it's gotten my FX6300 up to 4.6GHz. You could probably expect 4.0-4.2GHz with good thermal paste? I'm not quite sure how Thuban's TDP compares to Vishera's though, sorry.


----------



## Erick Silver

LOL No Fan clips? ZIPTIES!!! Thats how I had to mount the fan to the wifes Xigmatek Dark Knight. The little rubber fan mount doodads on her cooler were $20 plus shipping from freaking Sweden!! Forget that!


----------



## Shooter116

Nice to see the club is still alive and well! This is still my favorite heatsink.

I'll be using mine tomorrow on a 2500k with a corsair sp120 to replace the old blademaster. Gonna have to blow the dust off of it


----------



## Erick Silver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shooter116*
> 
> Nice to see the club is still alive and well! This is still my favorite heatsink.
> 
> I'll be using mine tomorrow on a 2500k with a corsair sp120 to replace the old blademaster. Gonna have to blow the dust off of it


Let me know how those fit. I have alead on a 212 without fans so will need to buy some. Really want to get those SP Fans but not sure how they will fit.


----------



## benbenkr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Let me know how those fit. I have alead on a 212 without fans so will need to buy some. Really want to get those SP Fans but not sure how they will fit.


They'll fit fine, a little tricky to get the wire clips into the rubber grommets on the SP fans but it shouldn't be too difficult.

Though I personally think the Scythe GT would be a better fan for the 212... tbh.
Not that the Corsair fans are bad of course.


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Erick Silver*
> 
> Let me know how those fit. I have alead on a 212 without fans so will need to buy some. Really want to get those SP Fans but not sure how they will fit.


Well it's a tight fit, but it does fit without rubbing against the RAM, even though it doesn't really look like it. The fan slides up and down just fine, but I installed my ram in the 2nd set of slots for extra breathing room.





Go for it!


----------



## Erick Silver

Hmmm. I have 4 RAM slots and 4x4GB RAM sticks......


----------



## Kuudere

This is why I never buy RAM with the ridiculously tall heatsinks on them, no need to worry about compatibility then


----------



## Erick Silver

Now see, thats the RAM I want. The Red Dragon from Avexir.


----------



## Shooter116

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuudere*
> 
> This is why I never buy RAM with the ridiculously tall heatsinks on them, no need to worry about compatibility then


I'm with ya, I used to have this cooler hovering over the normal-sized g-skill RAM and it was great. Ever since buying ram with these tall heatsinks I have to worry about fitment but i'm glad it does fit.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kuudere*
> 
> This is why I never buy RAM with the ridiculously tall heatsinks on them, no need to worry about compatibility then


#LowProfileMasterRace

I am more than fine with my aluminium plates glued to the memory modules. Nothing fancy, but it looks good and keeps things cool, even though I don't think it's necessary below 2133MHz.


----------



## Espionage724

So, I had a Hyper 212 Plus for a year or so now, but after switching cases months ago, I stopped using it. The case I switched to had a metal bar going right over the CPU cooling area, which thus made any tall heatsinks not fit.

I have plans to buy a new CPU to go with a motherboard I just got, and figured I'd look into a way to remove that bar. Found out the things holding the bar in were rivets, and also found out I could just drill them out (I really should've looked into this months ago lol).

When I originally used the cooler, I don't quite know if I noticed a real difference with temps in-comparison to the cheap heatsink I used with my Phenom II X3 (temps were averaging the 40-50s), but that could possibly be related to the way I applied thermal paste (maybe a bit too much of it). Does anyone have any advice for how to apply the thermal paste? Here's what I was thinking:

- A tiny dot in the center of each heatpipe
- A dot in the center of the heatsink (on the aluminum)
- Should I put some paste on the heatsink bottom and fill in the grooves; and if so, should I also apply more paste in one of the two top methods?

I also plan to clean it up while I wait for the CPU to get here. I plan to just sit the base of the 212 in a small bowl of white vinegar for a couple of hours.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I am by no means a thermal paste expert, but I think you just need to get the heatpipes and CPU die (usually the center of the IHS) covered for best results. You want to use as little as possible too. The metal, while it looks smooth, is filled with tiny pits and valleys, and the TIM is supposed to fill those. It's extremely similar to lubricants, but for heat. Too much interferes with heat transfer while too little won't maximize the surface area and therefore heat flow.

How to apply? I just put a small dot in the middle of the CPU and spread it with the heatsink itself. No idea if it's the best way or even a good way, but nothing has overheated yet!


----------



## Quantum Reality

http://www.overclock.net/t/656130/best-way-to-apply-thermal-paste-on-heatpipe-exposed-heatsinks/0_100

Some discussion of heatpipe-equipped heatsink compound application methods.


----------



## the matty

heres mine :3


----------



## Erick Silver

-sigh-







Ordered a Hyper 212 Accessories kit on the 30th. Its still awaiting shipment. I really needed to get it before the 4th so that I could send my H60 in for RMA, But of, course, thats not gonna happen.


----------



## Juliotech

Can i join the club?


----------



## psulover

For those with TWO FANS mounted onto the EVO 212, does it makes a difference vs the single fan configuration? If so how big?


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psulover*
> 
> For those with TWO FANS mounted onto the EVO 212, does it makes a difference vs the single fan configuration? If so how big?


people have tested this and it is minimal like about 1 - 2C


----------



## dachiesa

Hey guys I posted on an old thread, just in case I'll ask here too.

My first gaming rig, I put too much TIM on the cpu/heatsink. It actually came out the sides when I screwed it down. Got it cleaned up. Should I start it up and see how temps do at first or just go ahead and change it all out?

Also, I ended up screwing all the way down to the bracket (it went smooth without too many tight spots). Should I back the screws out a bit to save stress on the motherboard? Or is this not a big deal.

Thanks


----------



## Erick Silver

Hey guys, wanted to ask if its normal for the heatsink to move about a bit? I have all the screws tightened down but I can still move the heatsink around. Is this normal?


----------



## stubass

The one in my wifes rig moves a bit. i think it is normal for the it to move a bit.


----------



## Boinz

Yeah, it moves a few degrees for me too.


----------



## chinesethunda

Yeah it's supposed to, I've done this with many different heat sinks, it's just what it does. No harm to it, won't affect you noticeable I don't imagine


----------



## the matty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dachiesa*
> 
> Hey guys I posted on an old thread, just in case I'll ask here too.
> 
> My first gaming rig, I put too much TIM on the cpu/heatsink. It actually came out the sides when I screwed it down. Got it cleaned up. Should I start it up and see how temps do at first or just go ahead and change it all out?
> 
> Also, I ended up screwing all the way down to the bracket (it went smooth without too many tight spots). Should I back the screws out a bit to save stress on the motherboard? Or is this not a big deal.
> 
> Thanks


if it is conductive tim then you might want to re paste it with a little less (just like a small pea sized blob that is what i do) but if not it won't make a blind bit of difference and as for the screws the more pressure (to an extent, don't go crazy with it just go till you reach the end of the thread and no more) the better but it shouldn't cause any major stress or at least nothing that a motherboard can't take.


----------



## Gavush

This week I went from a 965 B.E. Running 3.8ghz at around 48c max with one fan to a fx-8350 at stock 4ghz tho it "turbos" up as high as 4.2ghz judging by my max values seen in occt. I played bf4 last night and it was running around 57c on average with peaks up to 59. I added a second fan for push/pull when I switched CPUs and I use arctic mx4 with a pea on the chip and the cooler tinned to fill in the cracks. I'm using xigmatek XAF-F1255 fans, and it's 22-23c in my house. Are these the sort of temps other 212/8350 combos are seeing? I read a bit before I got the CPU and everything said it should handle the heat load with even mild overclocks. Best I can tell anything up to 60 is fine but geeze it's a lot hotter than my 965 which ran .1v higher.


----------



## saipan

ahhh joanne.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gavush*
> 
> This week I went from a 965 B.E. Running 3.8ghz at around 48c max with one fan to a fx-8350 at stock 4ghz tho it "turbos" up as high as 4.2ghz judging by my max values seen in occt. I played bf4 last night and it was running around 57c on average with peaks up to 59. I added a second fan for push/pull when I switched CPUs and I use arctic mx4 with a pea on the chip and the cooler tinned to fill in the cracks. I'm using xigmatek XAF-F1255 fans, and it's 22-23c in my house. Are these the sort of temps other 212/8350 combos are seeing? I read a bit before I got the CPU and everything said it should handle the heat load with even mild overclocks. Best I can tell anything up to 60 is fine but geeze it's a lot hotter than my 965 which ran .1v higher.


It barely handles an eight-core.


----------



## Gavush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wongwarren*
> 
> It barely handles an eight-core.


I have a xigmatek Dark Knight II I can swap out but I'm not sure it's better. (and it doesn't match my video cards)


----------



## General Crumples

Hello!

I just installed a 212 EVO on my Phenom II 810 x4 and was wondering if I made a good install.

On idle im getting 35c and on a load i get around 45c, all stock. Is this normal?

Thanks!


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General Crumples*
> 
> Hello!
> 
> I just installed a 212 EVO on my Phenom II 810 x4 and was wondering if I made a good install.
> 
> On idle im getting 35c and on a load i get around 45c, all stock. Is this normal?
> 
> Thanks!


Idle seems a little high, mine was usually 29C, but the load seems pretty good. Is the room where the pc is hot?


----------



## General Crumples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Idle seems a little high, mine was usually 29C, but the load seems pretty good. Is the room where the pc is hot?


I'd say it's about 23c

BTW, I turned the fans up to 100% (Sickleflow at 1700rpm) and my idle temps dropped to 36 and on a heavy load plus my GPU on a load it gets to 41c (on stock I was getting to 55)

I have no PWM control and SmartFan sets the speeds way too low and I can't change the fan/heat curve. I'm going to try hooking up my fan controller to the fan


----------



## ABuNeNe

hi, I'm currently using a cm hyper 212 (not plus or evo) on my q9550 processor with lga 775 mobo

I'm going to upgrade to lga 1150 mobo, is there anyway, like getting a adapter or something, to make it work onto this mobo?


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ABuNeNe*
> 
> hi, I'm currently using a cm hyper 212 (not plus or evo) on my q9550 processor with lga 775 mobo
> 
> I'm going to upgrade to lga 1150 mobo, is there anyway, like getting a adapter or something, to make it work onto this mobo?


Nah, the bracket works, just slightly tilted.


----------



## Joecrusher

Is the mounting hardware for other cooler master cpu coolers universal? I want the accessory kit for this cooler is out of stock on the CM store, I have an Am3+ Cpu btw so if anyone can provide a link or anythint to mounting hardware that would work on my platform that'd be awesome.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joecrusher*
> 
> Is the mounting hardware for other cooler master cpu coolers universal? I want the accessory kit for this cooler is out of stock on the CM store, I have an Am3+ Cpu btw so if anyone can provide a link or anythint to mounting hardware that would work on my platform that'd be awesome.


Should technically be, AM3 and AM3+ use practically the same formation


----------



## Joecrusher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Should technically be, AM3 and AM3+ use practically the same formation


So can i just buy the mounting hardware for any other CM product and it'll mount the 212 evo?


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joecrusher*
> 
> So can i just buy the mounting hardware for any other CM product and it'll mount the 212 evo?


Well that i'm not sure of, but they also sell it here:
http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=68819


----------



## Joecrusher

I have an fx 6300, this is for intel







, thanks though







.


----------



## General Crumples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joecrusher*
> 
> So can i just buy the mounting hardware for any other CM product and it'll mount the 212 evo?


The mounting bracket that comes with the 212. is universal, It will fit almost every socket both AMD and Intel. You don't need to buy extra mounting hardware.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joecrusher*
> 
> I have an fx 6300, this is for intel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , thanks though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


you can move the legs so that it's universal.


----------



## xtech210

so, its late and i just registered... but is this club for hyper212+ AND 212 evo's? because i have a 212 evo and wanted to be one of the cool kids









seriously though, im reading some on how to squeeze the most out of this cooler, but its late and im about to pass out :X


----------



## 352227

push or pull better with evo?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> push or pull better with evo?


Push


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Push


Oh oh hope it fits with my Corsair Vengeance Pro RAM!!!


----------



## stubass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Push
> 
> 
> 
> Oh oh hope it fits with my Corsair Vengeance Pro RAM!!!
Click to expand...

I am not sure how high that RAM is but you can if only 2 sticks use the 2nd and 4th slot or raise the fan up abit.. not that much difference between push and pull anyway.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Oh oh hope it fits with my Corsair Vengeance Pro RAM!!!


I don't see it being an issue, my motherboard is an inch narrower than standard ATX and my 212 fit fine with my ram in the first slot.


----------



## 352227

Happy days - I do have 4 sticks of RAM - got very greedy!!

Building the PC this weekend possibly - I'll try remember to upload a pic of it's fit!


----------



## xtech210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> I don't see it being an issue, my motherboard is an inch narrower than standard ATX and my 212 fit fine with my ram in the first slot.


i have 4 x g.skill ripjaws in my banks. they are literally about 1mm from my fan. maybe even .5mm. its insane, but the memory im sure enjoys a fan being right next to em, sucking that hot air up and spitting it out.


----------



## General Crumples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> push or pull better with evo?


Push.

Push/Pull is not worth it


----------



## Erick Silver

Here's some pictures of my Hyper 212+





As you can see the Pull Fan does not quite clear the Ripjaws X RAM. Cooler Master fans are sleeved.


----------



## Gavush

I just pulled the trigger on a Kraken X61 so I can work on overclocking my new FX-8350 but my trusty 212evo will be moved onto my nephews rig we built him last week that's got my old Phenom x4 965.


----------



## 352227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> Oh oh hope it fits with my Corsair Vengeance Pro RAM!!!


So it turns out the stock fan on the Hyper 212 EVO does not clear the Corsair Vengeance Pro Memory - I have had to switch it to pull on the other side unfortunately.

Does anyone know if the stock fan should be replaced with the Corsair SP120 fan?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rdlambe1*
> 
> So it turns out the stock fan on the Hyper 212 EVO does not clear the Corsair Vengeance Pro Memory - I have had to switch it to pull on the other side unfortunately.
> 
> Does anyone know if the stock fan should be replaced with the Corsair SP120 fan?


I would replace it even if it DID fit. The stock fan on my 212 Evo lasted maybe 3 months before developing a very annoying click. I replaced it with one of those 140mm phanteks fans that use the 120mm mounting holes. Looked a bit funky but worked great. On my mobo that left a few mm clearance between the fan and the ram. Quite honestly it surprises me people have issues with ram clearance with that cooler, the oversized fan fit between the 212 and the ram on my board, and mine is an inch narrower than standard ATX.

This is an old image, I don't even have the 212 or that graphics card installed anymore.


----------



## ExothermicPC

Just installed mine yesterday. Intel stock fan's bearing was stuffed.
Didn't even on put on the stock fan, went with 2 nanoxia deep silence 120's instead.
2nd fan is offset for ram clearance.
Running 4ghz on my 2500k and it's still about 5deg cooler at idle that it was before at stock 3.4ghz. Max temp has dropped 15 degrees to 57 with my usage too.
Plus with the nanoxia fans all I hear now is my psu fan and the odd time my gpu fans spin up








Very happy with the $35 I've spent


----------



## Haggisbones

Hi All,

Been working with my friend OC friend Hyp36rmax to try and resolve a problem (potential problem?) that I am seeing with my Hyper 212 Evo install. He suggested I post in here to see if anybody could give me some recommendations.

My set up is described here: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/HchMnQ

The only modification to that is that I added another 120mm fan to the cooler to see if it would improve matters (a Bitfenix Spectre 120mm).

The problem that I am seeing is that when I run Prime95 torture test the temperature gets out of control after a few minutes in. It ramped up quickly from idle at 40'C to 98'C before I quit the test for fear of damaging the CPU.

I have already re-installed the cooler once and I'm not a total noob at this stuff so have properly cleaned up the cooler in between and tightened it down in the recommended way.

So, the question is, does anybody else with an i7 4770k at default speed and Vcore with the supplied CM thermal paste have values I can compare with for the torture test? Am I right to be freaking out about these temperatures. Should the Hyper 212 Evo be able to cope with this?

Oh, "hi" by the way ... first post







.


----------



## ExothermicPC

Having mismatching fans would decrease the airflow through the cooler, put another Bitfenix on in place of the cooler master stock fan so they both match?

Another idea could be the bitfenix is not matching the coolermaster fan's rpms if it is not controlled though the CPU fan port as well. This would also get bad airflow. Get matching fans and a 4 pin splitter so both can run on the same temp/speed profile off of the cpu pwm fan plug resulting in matching airflow/static pressure.
And lastly annoyingly like a flogged horse paste application method should pretty much be anything but the spread evenly method. Which one was used?
Hope this helps


----------



## Haggisbones

Thanks for the speedy reply ExothermicPC. I used the grain of rice application of thermal paste. I appreciate that the mismatched fans is not ideal. I just added the Bitfenix one to test whether a push-pull configuration would improve matters. Both fans are connected to the CPU fan header with a y-splitter. Sorry I didn't mention this in the first post.

The real concern was that the temperature spiked so quickly. To me, that is not something that fans are going to resolve. Either the peltier cooler mechanism is not keeping up or the thermal paste or application is not up to the job. I guess the other possibilities are some weird config that I am missing in the uefi bios?


----------



## ExothermicPC

But if it's running at default speeds there should be an improvement over stock.
If it's spiking quickly to 98c that could indicate a thermal paste issue as the copper pipes have decent heat capacity and conductivity.
I could try your settings in prime 95 this afternoon and see what results I get with my 2500k at 4ghz to see if mine spikes as well as I haven't given the cooler a true workout either.


----------



## Haggisbones

Agreed, I'd expect a better profile than the stock cooler. Problem is, I haven't tried the stock cooler yet to compare it! It's on my to do list







. Look forward to hearing what your results are ExothermicPC.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haggisbones*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Been working with my friend OC friend Hyp36rmax to try and resolve a problem (potential problem?) that I am seeing with my Hyper 212 Evo install. He suggested I post in here to see if anybody could give me some recommendations.
> 
> My set up is described here: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/HchMnQ
> 
> The only modification to that is that I added another 120mm fan to the cooler to see if it would improve matters (a Bitfenix Spectre 120mm).
> 
> The problem that I am seeing is that when I run Prime95 torture test the temperature gets out of control after a few minutes in. It ramped up quickly from idle at 40'C to 98'C before I quit the test for fear of damaging the CPU.
> 
> I have already re-installed the cooler once and I'm not a total noob at this stuff so have properly cleaned up the cooler in between and tightened it down in the recommended way.
> 
> So, the question is, does anybody else with an i7 4770k at default speed and Vcore with the supplied CM thermal paste have values I can compare with for the torture test? Am I right to be freaking out about these temperatures. Should the Hyper 212 Evo be able to cope with this?
> 
> Oh, "hi" by the way ... first post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Welcome to OCN!
















We've been troubleshooting Haggisbones' Hyper 212 Evo for about a week and even sent out new accessories to rule out hardware issues. Let's see what we can do to get it working


----------



## Haggisbones

Thanks Hyp36rmax


----------



## ace101

Installed the EVO one and got the following results...

from 34C to 31C at idle
from 93C to 74C at Full load.

Is it normal or it depends on the system? CPU is i7 4770K


----------



## Skye12977

Well seeing as I first purchased a 212 back on September 29, 2012 and just purchased a 212 EVO, I might as well join


----------



## ExothermicPC

Downloaded prime 95.
Running it on the default mixed setting s with 3 rounds of tests.
Up to the 2nd/3rd round of most tests and has been sitting on a steady 53/54c with a max of 55c. Ambient is 21c making a delta of 32c
Gigabyte Easy tune 6 (disgraceful I know) states 3.9 GHz, 1.42v
The 2500k has no hyperthreading either.
Im using the stock thermal paste but because of the gaps in the heat pipes I put a layer on the heartsink to fill in the gaps with the flat section of copper virtually having no paste and then used the pea method as normal on the cpu.
Previous 4 try's as the (heatsink kept moving too much when securing) before this confirmed that the pea method was getting almost maximum coverage of the cpu spreader.
When I bolted it down I got the threads started lightly with about 2 rotations on each bolt in a diagonal pattern. Then I proceeded to tighten down in a diagonal pattern with 3 rotations on each bolt and then alternating until all bottomed out. Then I backed off 2 rotations on each bolt.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Haggisbones*
> 
> Thanks Hyp36rmax


You bet!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> Installed the EVO one and got the following results...
> 
> from 34C to 31C at idle
> from 93C to 74C at Full load.
> 
> Is it normal or it depends on the system? CPU is i7 4770K


Haggisbones above you has a simliar experience with this Hyper 212 Evo and i7 4770k. What application are you running to get those temps? Prime 95?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExothermicPC*
> 
> Downloaded prime 95.
> Running it on the default mixed setting s with 3 rounds of tests.
> Up to the 2nd/3rd round of most tests and has been sitting on a steady 53/54c with a max of 55c. Ambient is 21c making a delta of 32c
> Gigabyte Easy tune 6 (disgraceful I know) states 3.9 GHz, 1.42v
> The 2500k has no hyperthreading either.
> Im using the stock thermal paste but because of the gaps in the heat pipes I put a layer on the heartsink to fill in the gaps with the flat section of copper virtually having no paste and then used the pea method as normal on the cpu.
> Previous 4 try's as the (heatsink kept moving too much when securing) before this confirmed that the pea method was getting almost maximum coverage of the cpu spreader.
> When I bolted it down I got the threads started lightly with about 2 rotations on each bolt in a diagonal pattern. Then I proceeded to tighten down in a diagonal pattern with 3 rotations on each bolt and then alternating until all bottomed out. Then I backed off 2 rotations on each bolt.


1.42V on a 2500k? Whoa there tiger!







What case and fan setup are you running in your configuration?


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Haggisbones above you has a simliar experience with this Hyper 212 Evo and i7 4770k. What application are you running to get those temps? Prime 95?


Got those temps running a rendering application. Can I get better results from Prime95?


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> Got those temps running a rendering application. Can I get better results from Prime95?


You'll probably get similar results if not warmer since it will also stress your CPU as much as the render application you used. Try it and report to us with results, i'm curious.


----------



## ExothermicPC

Yeah I noticed the 1.4v 2 when I checked it to make the comment was was thinking to myself that's a tad extreme haha. Could be getting 4.5ghz and over with that kind of voltage. That's what you get when you use the motherboard vendor's own oc software lol hence the disgraceful comment








Forgot to mention the fans, using 2 nanoxia 120mm 1100rpm fans running at 5v through a controller but I've been monitoring the temps of course. One is offset a few mm for ram clearance.
The case is a nanoxia deep silence 1.
Details of my setup are here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1512081/build-log-nanoxia-deep-silence-1-cooling-and-silence-optimization#post_22847768


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> You'll probably get similar results if not warmer since it will also stress your CPU as much as the render application you used. Try it and report to us with results, i'm curious.


After running Prime 95 for 30 mins, i got 94C maximum temperature. Now I was wondering, if I did not replace my stock coolers with this one will it overheat and reached the maximum temperature and fryed my CPU?


----------



## CM Felinni

*Hyper 212 EVO + JetFlo 120 Myth BUSTER*



*We heard you like our JetFlo's with our Hyper 212 EVO.*



*Mount the JetFlo 120 Fan and included screws onto the Hyper 212 EVO fan bracket.*



*Remember to remove the anti-vibration pads, otherwise you won't be able to mount it to the heat-sink.*



*Give it a little elbow grease and the magical happens!*



*JetFlo 120 Push | Pull Amaaaazing!*



Hope this helps


----------



## CM-Patrick

Good Job


----------



## hyp36rmax

Time to join the club! Welcome my new backup cooler


----------



## Simmons572

I just found this thread this morning so I figured I'd join! I own x3 212 Evos.



x1 in my Kirito build, stock fan only (the other fan was removed because it raised my temps)



And x2 in my C1100 Case Swap!


----------



## ace101

Hi! Is it normal to reach 94C using prime 95? Tried a blend test and it always reaches 94C with this cooler.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> Hi! Is it normal to reach 94C using prime 95? Tried a blend test and it always reaches 94C with this cooler.


Depends on the chip and clockspeeds, I would hit that regularly at 4.4ghz with my 3570k under the H212 Evo. You should add your rig to your sig.


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Depends on the chip and clockspeeds, I would hit that regularly at 4.4ghz with my 3570k under the H212 Evo. You should add your rig to your sig.


CPU is 4770K at 3.9ghz. Not overclocked.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> CPU is 4770K at 3.9ghz. Not overclocked.


That seems awfully high for stock. Have you checked your voltages to make sure they are stable.


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> That seems awfully high for stock. Have you checked your voltages to make sure they are stable.


Not yet. What value should I expect given that everything is stock?


----------



## ace101

Badly need your help fellow ocn.

Just tried running prime95 again. Before my maximum temp reaches 94C. But after trying it today, It reached a 100C!!! What could be the problem?


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> Hi! Is it normal to reach 94C using prime 95? Tried a blend test and it always reaches 94C with this cooler.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> CPU is 4770K at 3.9ghz. Not overclocked.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> Not yet. What value should I expect given that everything is stock?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> Badly need your help fellow ocn.
> 
> Just tried running prime95 again. Before my maximum temp reaches 94C. But after trying it today, It reached a 100C!!! What could be the problem?


*A few questions for you:*


How much thermal paste did you use?
Did you make sure to remove the plastic "Please peel off label before you use it" Warning Label underneath the Hyper 212 EVO heat pipes prior to mounting the heat-sink?
Did you torque the X-Bracket correctly using a star torque procedure such as you would with a wheel of car?
What case are you using? Any other fans flowing in your system? What is the fan orientation of ALL fans?
What is your ambient temperature?
What is your idle temperature?
What fan are you using? Is it blowing into the heat-sink? Is it Push | Pull?
How long of a PRIME 95 run until you reach a delta of 94-100 C?

Keep in mind when you're running PRIME 95 it will truly stress your CPU as the Intel i7 4770k is rated with a 85 Watts TDP the Hyper 212 EVO is rated up to 180 Watts TDP. In comparison to a liquid-cooled CPU and a PRIME 95 bench of around 60-70C, seeing a 80-90C on air can be very common.

Real world temperatures will vary and be much lower then a PRIME 95 run. What applications and / or games do you use and what temperatures are you getting with those?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Felinni*
> 
> *Hyper 212 EVO + JetFlo 120 Myth BUSTER*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *We heard you like our JetFlo's with our Hyper 212 EVO.*
> 
> 
> 
> *Mount the JetFlo 120 Fan and included screws onto the Hyper 212 EVO fan bracket.*
> 
> 
> 
> *Remember to remove the anti-vibration pads, otherwise you won't be able to mount it to the heat-sink.*
> 
> 
> 
> *Give it a little elbow grease and the magical happens!*
> 
> 
> 
> *JetFlo 120 Push | Pull Amaaaazing!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps


What's the threading of the screws that come with the Jetflo? Hoping I can get a few flat-head ones somewhere since I'm not too comfortable with either more force on the fan bracket or the screw pushing into a heatsink fin (not that it's going to make a big difference but just to be safe).

Edit: somebody on Amazon measured it to be #10-32.

http://www.amazon.com/review/R2881TMWTIS3OX/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00E20SSWQ


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> *A few questions for you:*
> 
> 
> How much thermal paste did you use? pea size of mx-4
> Did you make sure to remove the plastic "Please peel off label before you use it" Warning Label underneath the Hyper 212 EVO heat pipes prior to mounting the heat-sink? Yup i removed the plastic. It's also the 2nd time I put the thermal compound so I'm sure about this.
> Did you torque the X-Bracket correctly using a star torque procedure such as you would with a wheel of car? Yes I did.
> What case are you using? Any other fans flowing in your system? What is the fan orientation of ALL fans? CM 690 III
> 
> All are intake except for the rear. Also the fan at the top near the rear fan is not yet running due to lack of splitter cable.
> 
> What is your ambient temperature? ambient temperature during the test is 27C
> What is your idle temperature? Idle Temp at 29C
> What fan are you using? Is it blowing into the heat-sink? Is it Push | Pull? 212 has stock fan(Push Only),
> How long of a PRIME 95 run until you reach a delta of 94-100 C? Within 7 to 10 mins of test it can reach the 94C. But today when I tried it reached 100C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Keep in mind when you're running PRIME 95 it will truly stress your CPU as the Intel i7 4770k is rated with a 85 Watts TDP the Hyper 212 EVO is rated up to 180 Watts TDP. In comparison to a liquid-cooled CPU and a PRIME 95 bench of around 60-70C, seeing a 80-90C on air can be very common.
> 
> Real world temperatures will vary and be much lower then a PRIME 95 run. What applications and / or games do you use and what temperatures are you getting with those?


Honestly with normal PC use I don't have any problem. Before I installed the 212 EVO, I reached a 94C at full load while Rendering at Revit Architecture Software. After Installation of 212, It only reached 75C at Full Load. But when I tried Prime 95 I was surprised that my temp still reached 94-100C. I cannot overclock my CPU in this situation and I'm planning to overclock to make my rendering faster.


----------



## ace101

By this time ambient temp is 22C. Idle temp is 23C.


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> What's the threading of the screws that come with the Jetflo? Hoping I can get a few flat-head ones somewhere since I'm not too comfortable with either more force on the fan bracket or the screw pushing into a heatsink fin (not that it's going to make a big difference but just to be safe).
> 
> Edit: somebody on Amazon measured it to be #*10-32*.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/review/R2881TMWTIS3OX/ref=cm_cr_pr_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00E20SSWQ


That sounds about correct. According to that Amazon review that customer could have requested replacement screws through our *CM Fanzone Parts Request* as long as he was under warranty as it sounds as if he wanted to mount a fan grill. You can also use 3/4" length of weather stripping foam in between the fan mount bracket with JetFLO 120 Fan to absorb the screw from pushing into the Hyper 212 EVO heat-sink fin.


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> *A few questions for you:*
> 
> 
> How much thermal paste did you use? pea size of mx-4
> Did you make sure to remove the plastic "Please peel off label before you use it" Warning Label underneath the Hyper 212 EVO heat pipes prior to mounting the heat-sink? Yup i removed the plastic. It's also the 2nd time I put the thermal compound so I'm sure about this.
> Did you torque the X-Bracket correctly using a star torque procedure such as you would with a wheel of car? Yes I did.
> What case are you using? Any other fans flowing in your system? What is the fan orientation of ALL fans? CM 690 III
> 
> All are intake except for the rear. Also the fan at the top near the rear fan is not yet running due to lack of splitter cable.
> What is your ambient temperature? ambient temperature during the test is 27C
> What is your idle temperature? Idle Temp at 29C
> What fan are you using? Is it blowing into the heat-sink? Is it Push | Pull? 212 has stock fan(Push Only),
> How long of a PRIME 95 run until you reach a delta of 94-100 C? Within 7 to 10 mins of test it can reach the 94C. But today when I tried it reached 100C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Keep in mind when you're running PRIME 95 it will truly stress your CPU as the Intel i7 4770k is rated with a 85 Watts TDP the Hyper 212 EVO is rated up to 180 Watts TDP. In comparison to a liquid-cooled CPU and a PRIME 95 bench of around 60-70C, seeing a 80-90C on air can be very common.
> 
> Real world temperatures will vary and be much lower then a PRIME 95 run. What applications and / or games do you use and what temperatures are you getting with those?
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly with normal PC use I don't have any problem. Before I installed the 212 EVO, I reached a 94C at full load while Rendering at Revit Architecture Software. After Installation of 212, It only reached 75C at Full Load. But when I tried Prime 95 I was surprised that my temp still reached 94-100C. I cannot overclock my CPU in this situation and I'm planning to overclock to make my rendering faster.
Click to expand...

Everything you stated looks fine with your setup even with the addition of your top rear fan will probably drop the temperature about a couple degrees in PRIME 95. Considering you had a temperature delta of -19C (From 94C to 75C) while using Revit Architecture Software from your previous heat-sink it sounds as if the Hyper 212 EVO is doing its job. However what was your temperature when running PRIME 95 with your previous heat-sink?

Possible solutions to minimize heat during a stressed benchmark that we can suggest is mounting a Push | Pull fan setup with fans that have a highly balanced CFM and Static Pressure curve or going with a higher end heat-sink or even water-cooling solutions such as our Seidon, Nepton, Glacer, or even a water-cooled custom loop.


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> Honestly with normal PC use I don't have any problem. Before I installed the 212 EVO, I reached a 94C at full load while Rendering at Revit Architecture Software. After Installation of 212, It only reached 75C at Full Load. But when I tried Prime 95 I was surprised that my temp still reached 94-100C. I cannot overclock my CPU in this situation and I'm planning to overclock to make my rendering faster.


Your core voltage is 1.28-1.3v. From what I've experienced, my 212X can only dissipate enough heat generated by haswell at ~1.28v and reach 85-88C temps. Might be worse for an i7 at that voltage due to HT.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shanenanigans*
> 
> Your core voltage is 1.28-1.3v. From what I've experienced, my 212X can only dissipate enough heat generated by haswell at ~1.28v and reach 85-88C temps. Might be worse for an i7 at that voltage due to HT.


1.3v is kinda high if he really is running stock isn't it? I know thats about where even my H80i starts to get rather hot under the collar with prime.


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> 1.3v is kinda high if he really is running stock isn't it? I know thats about where even my H80i starts to get rather hot under the collar with prime.


Yeah it is. My guess is his voltage is adaptive.


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Felinni*
> 
> Everything you stated looks fine with your setup even with the addition of your top rear fan will probably drop the temperature about a couple degrees in PRIME 95. Considering you had a temperature delta of -19C (From 94C to 75C) while using Revit Architecture Software from your previous heat-sink it sounds as if the Hyper 212 EVO is doing its job. However what was your temperature when running PRIME 95 with your previous heat-sink?
> 
> Possible solutions to minimize heat during a stressed benchmark that we can suggest is mounting a Push | Pull fan setup with fans that have a highly balanced CFM and Static Pressure curve or going with a higher end heat-sink or even water-cooling solutions such as our Seidon, Nepton, Glacer, or even a water-cooled custom loop.


I was not able to try Prime95 with my stock cooler. After finding out that my temperature reaches 94C with a rendering application I decided right away to install a 212 Evo so that I can try to overclock. It did not disappoint me with a delta of -19C with the rendering app. I guess I'll try to have push | pull fan configuration and see what will happen. Need to make the top rear fan to work too and order 2 more jetflo's.


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shanenanigans*
> 
> Your core voltage is 1.28-1.3v. From what I've experienced, my 212X can only dissipate enough heat generated by haswell at ~1.28v and reach 85-88C temps. Might be worse for an i7 at that voltage due to HT.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> 1.3v is kinda high if he really is running stock isn't it? I know thats about where even my H80i starts to get rather hot under the collar with prime.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shanenanigans*
> 
> Yeah it is. My guess is his voltage is adaptive.


I guess I need to check the voltage also. I read some article regarding Mobo and CPU voltage that is making some conflicts with each other because of the adaptive settings. Not that clear though because this things are new to me.


----------



## ace101

So I tried to adjust the voltage. Run Prime95 for 30 mins.

Before it was reaching 1.257 with automatic settings and temperature goes up to 94C to 100C.
I set it to manual value of 1.125 and got 85C max temperature.

I guess my 212 is not the problem.

Anyway, any pros and cons if I were to keep this voltage settings? I'm using 4770K with stock speed.

Thanks for all the inputs guys. Really a big help!


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> So I tried to adjust the voltage. Run Prime95 for 30 mins.
> 
> Before it was reaching 1.257 with automatic settings and temperature goes up to 94C to 100C.
> I set it to manual value of 1.125 and got 85C max temperature.
> 
> I guess my 212 is not the problem.
> 
> Anyway, any pros and cons if I were to keep this voltage settings? I'm using 4770K with stock speed.
> 
> Thanks for all the inputs guys. Really a big help!


If you're stable running prime with that, then there's very likely not going to be any issues.

Have you tried lower? I would progressively lower the voltage by 0.005 at a time, until I bsod'd in prime, then up it to the one right before that happened, and then run several hours of prime to make sure it's stable there. If not, increase by 0.005 and run it again, until you get it stable. That way you find your low limit - and the lower the voltage, the lower your temps will be.


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> So I tried to adjust the voltage. Run Prime95 for 30 mins.
> 
> Before it was reaching 1.257 with automatic settings and temperature goes up to 94C to 100C.
> I set it to manual value of 1.125 and got 85C max temperature.
> 
> I guess my 212 is not the problem.
> 
> Anyway, any pros and cons if I were to keep this voltage settings? I'm using 4770K with stock speed.
> 
> Thanks for all the inputs guys. Really a big help!


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> If you're stable running prime with that, then there's very likely not going to be any issues.
> 
> Have you tried lower? I would progressively lower the voltage by 0.005 at a time, until I bsod'd in prime, then up it to the one right before that happened, and then run several hours of prime to make sure it's stable there. If not, increase by 0.005 and run it again, until you get it stable. That way you find your low limit - and the lower the voltage, the lower your temps will be.


I'll try this one. Thanks!


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> I'll try this one. Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> If you're stable running prime with that, then there's very likely not going to be any issues.
> 
> Have you tried lower? I would progressively lower the voltage by 0.005 at a time, until I bsod'd in prime, then up it to the one right before that happened, and then run several hours of prime to make sure it's stable there. If not, increase by 0.005 and run it again, until you get it stable. That way you find your low limit - and the lower the voltage, the lower your temps will be.


I tried 1.100 but bsod'd. Now it's stable with 1.105 but temperature only drop 1C.


----------



## ace101

I found stability with stock core speed for my 4770K @ 1.120V reaching 84C max with Prime95 for 15hrs test.

Now I'm running 4.3ghz with 1.270Vcore reaching 83C with XTU and x264 tests. I guess my 212 EVO is doing its job even though I got a bad CPU.


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> I found stability with stock core speed for my 4770K @ 1.120V reaching 84C max with Prime95 for 15hrs test.
> 
> Now I'm running 4.3ghz with 1.270Vcore reaching 83C with XTU and x264 tests. I guess my 212 EVO is doing its job even though I got a bad CPU.


Stock speeds shouldn't stress the 212 Evo to 84C. Especially not 1.12v. When I first stressed my CPU with stock clocks and 1.08v ( not that far off ), my max temps weren't even 55C. I think you need to reseat/remount/clean dust/see what's wrong.


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shanenanigans*
> 
> Stock speeds shouldn't stress the 212 Evo to 84C. Especially not 1.12v. When I first stressed my CPU with stock clocks and 1.08v ( not that far off ), my max temps weren't even 55C. I think you need to reseat/remount/clean dust/see what's wrong.


Ok I'll try to reseat my EVO and update once done. thanks!


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> Ok I'll try to reseat my EVO and update once done. thanks!


While you're at it, don't forget to make sure the airflow is from front to back and not bottom to top ( GPU heat will process more hot air for your CPU ) and additionally, make sure you have more intake fans than exhaust. Negative pressure forces hot air out.


----------



## overclockerjames

Is the hyper 212 really as bad as people say it is?

I posted that I'm using a cooler master hyper 212 evo on my 5820k and I was straight out attacked by overclock.net members









http://www.overclock.net/t/1519160/amd-280x-not-compatible-with-intel-x99-motherboards-again/10#post_23011435

http://www.overclock.net/t/1519160/amd-280x-not-compatible-with-intel-x99-motherboards-again/20#post_23013081

http://www.overclock.net/t/1519160/amd-280x-not-compatible-with-intel-x99-motherboards-again/30#post_23015392

http://www.overclock.net/t/1519160/amd-280x-not-compatible-with-intel-x99-motherboards-again/30#post_23020356

I posted reviews, showing that the hyper 212 does very well and is consistently ranked as one of the best air coolers available.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1519160/amd-280x-not-compatible-with-intel-x99-motherboards-again/20#post_23012724

No one cared, they just continued to attack me without providing any evidence that it was a bad hsf.

What gives? I've never had a problem with it, my 5820k runs great at 4.4 at 1.27v with the hyper 212 evo
http://valid.x86.fr/519zy4


yet I'm being personally attacked over a hsf that I'm having no problems with?


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

I wouldn't say it is the best cooler ever. But it is very popular and can be easily found. It has good cooling. It cheap. It's isn't too loud. It fits a very wide variety of sockets. It is a good solid choice that you can't go wrong on. It has decent performance for mild to mid range overclocks as well.

If you want to overclock your chip above 4.5 ghz or so I would suggest spending a bit more money to get something that will help keep your chip cooler.

Edit: MaximumPC seems to like it a lot. Gave it a 10 Kick Ass award.


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> I wouldn't say it is the best cooler ever. But it is very popular and can be easily found. It has good cooling. It cheap. It's isn't too loud. It fits a very wide variety of sockets. It is a good solid choice that you can't go wrong on. It has decent performance for mild to mid range overclocks as well.
> 
> If you want to overclock your chip above 4.5 ghz or so I would suggest spending a bit more money to get something that will help keep your chip cooler.
> 
> Edit: MaximumPC seems to like it a lot. Gave it a 10 Kick Ass award.


I would not and did not say it was the best cooler ever, however it does rank well in numerous reviews so I said it was "one of the best"

Like you said, MaximumPC gave it a 10 out of 10, is it wrong of me to say that something that got a perfect 10 out of 10 review is "one of the best"?


----------



## southernyankey1970

Why waste precious energy worrying about replies in a forum? If you are happy with your 212 then be happy..I can run my Hyper N520 on a 8320 at 4.5 and it hasn't burst into flames just yet and the 212 is a better cooler than the n520(I have stupid airflow, though! Not stock by any perspective!) You can't take Inet forums too seriously as you never know who is off their meds that particular day IMHO. Especially here. You don't know who is a 15 year old gamer or a type A OCD overachieving Engineer type...It's all a matter of opinion. Mentally block out the garbage posts and just take in the relevant info and you'll be much happier in the end.


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *southernyankey1970*
> 
> Why waste precious energy worrying about replies in a forum? If you are happy with your 212 then be happy..I can run my Hyper N520 on a 8320 at 4.5 and it hasn't burst into flames just yet and the 212 is a better cooler than the n520(I have stupid airflow, though! Not stock by any perspective!) You can't take Inet forums too seriously as you never know who is off their meds that particular day IMHO. Especially here. You don't know who is a 15 year old gamer or a type A OCD overachieving Engineer type...It's all a matter of opinion. Mentally block out the garbage posts and just take in the relevant info and you'll be much happier in the end.


it's ok now, looks like moderators got involved and removed the trolls









idk, everyone here has always been so level-headed for the past few years, it was just weird to see this happen


----------



## ./Cy4n1d3\.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerjames*
> 
> I would not and did not say it was the best cooler ever, however it does rank well in numerous reviews so I said it was "one of the best"
> 
> Like you said, MaximumPC gave it a 10 out of 10, is it wrong of me to say that something that got a perfect 10 out of 10 review is "one of the best"?


Part of the reason they gave it that score is because of it's low price.

If you had NO BUDGET CONCERNS, I wouldn't say it is one of the best in terms of absolute performance. It is very good at the price point. It is a high value per dollar performance rating.


----------



## ExothermicPC

I'm really happy with mine after changing the fans, the low price being a major factor.
With my budget I personally couldn't justify stepping up to noctuas D15 cooler as double the price didn't result in half of delta t above ambient lol.
I was planning to watercool everything in a few months but might just stick to watercooling the gpu for now and do the cpu later as I will only be hunting a 4-4.5ghz over clock


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *./Cy4n1d3\.*
> 
> Part of the reason they gave it that score is because of it's low price.
> 
> If you had NO BUDGET CONCERNS, I wouldn't say it is one of the best in terms of absolute performance. It is very good at the price point. It is a high value per dollar performance rating.


I agree, I never said it was THE BEST, but it has a lot of desirable features, including high performance for a low price and it's not too incredibly large so it should fit most cases and motherboard designs.

I'm not a fan of water-cooling, if the pump dies you're SOL. At least with two fans and a giant HSF both the fans would have to die and the cpu pegged at 100% before too much worry.


----------



## victorelessar

Guys i have an overheating problem with my FX-8350 thats bugging me for a long time. im using the rig listed on my signature, and i was pretty sure i had a bad motehrboard (used to have an gigabyte 990xa-ud3 rev 3.0). I was so sure it was the source of my heating problems (even the NB was overheating on it), that i managed to sell it and got an used ASUS corsshair V formula for a little extra cash (needless to say im on a tight budget here).

So for my sad surprise, the overheating kept happening. Although its true that im using a cheap brandless thermal paste right now, i used to test with thermaltake tg-3. In fact i did so many tests that i spent it all. So im afraid the problem is either the cooler or the psu.

I cant think why psu would make it overheat, if anyone know its a possibility, let me know. So lets focus on the coolers now.

As i said, i have a coolermaster evo 212 plus, but i also tested on stock cooler and got similar results. some times better on stock. Tested both with thermaltake tg3 and the cheap TIM, and results were pretty much the same.

Last night i left BIOS all in stock, 4.0ghz and stock vcore, and temps slowly got higher, reaching 70ºC in less than 5min. If i try to overclock, it will reach 80ºC in like 15seconds. Ill post screens when i get home. As for now, im already considering a new cooler, but i was wondering:

My coolermaster base is not completly flat, as in the photo bellow:


i think this let some air in betwen the heatpipes, which is not helping my case. And to consider some times the stock cooler gets better temps (still high) i was wondering if thats a real problem.


----------



## Boinz

Yeah, the cm212 is not supposed to be flat as Cooler master understand that IHS on cpu's are not flat themselves. However regarding the overheating, is it hot in your house? You have good ventilation?


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *victorelessar*
> 
> Guys i have an overheating problem with my FX-8350 thats bugging me for a long time. im using the rig listed on my signature, and i was pretty sure i had a bad motehrboard (used to have an gigabyte 990xa-ud3 rev 3.0). I was so sure it was the source of my heating problems (even the NB was overheating on it), that i managed to sell it and got an used ASUS corsshair V formula for a little extra cash (needless to say im on a tight budget here).
> 
> So for my sad surprise, the overheating kept happening. Although its true that im using a cheap brandless thermal paste right now, i used to test with thermaltake tg-3. In fact i did so many tests that i spent it all. So im afraid the problem is either the cooler or the psu.
> 
> I cant think why psu would make it overheat, if anyone know its a possibility, let me know. So lets focus on the coolers now.
> 
> As i said, i have a coolermaster evo 212 plus, but i also tested on stock cooler and got similar results. some times better on stock. Tested both with thermaltake tg3 and the cheap TIM, and results were pretty much the same.
> 
> Last night i left BIOS all in stock, 4.0ghz and stock vcore, and temps slowly got higher, reaching 70ºC in less than 5min. If i try to overclock, it will reach 80ºC in like 15seconds. Ill post screens when i get home. As for now, im already considering a new cooler, but i was wondering:
> 
> My coolermaster base is not completly flat, as in the photo bellow:
> 
> 
> i think this let some air in betwen the heatpipes, which is not helping my case. And to consider some times the stock cooler gets better temps (still high) i was wondering if thats a real problem.


A good case is essential. My temperatures became SO much more better after I switched to my current case. Also, the PSU has to be cool or have a fresh air intake. Hot PSU = hot electrics. Which means, whether you like it or not, your CPU will be hot. Also, look up the recommended way to apply TIM. If I'm not mistaken you have to apply TIM in lines on the three non copper bars in the case of that specific 212. For my 212 Evo, I just had to apply a blob because it was flat.


----------



## victorelessar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Yeah, the cm212 is not supposed to be flat as Cooler master understand that IHS on cpu's are not flat themselves. However regarding the overheating, is it hot in your house? You have good ventilation?


Well id say my room is a bit hot, but maybe 28ºc max. Thing is, besides it is warm, nothing holds the temps. its not like it gets to 70ºC and stops. if i keep stressing, the temps will keep getting higher til system fails. Only difference i notice is how fast the temps gets high. max i can do right now is delay the overheating.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shanenanigans*
> 
> A good case is essential. My temperatures became SO much more better after I switched to my current case. Also, the PSU has to be cool or have a fresh air intake. Hot PSU = hot electrics. Which means, whether you like it or not, your CPU will be hot. Also, look up the recommended way to apply TIM. If I'm not mistaken you have to apply TIM in lines on the three non copper bars in the case of that specific 212. For my 212 Evo, I just had to apply a blob because it was flat.


Ill try to apply TIM that way, rearrange the psu and post screenshots later when i get home.


----------



## Klocek001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerjames*
> 
> What gives? I've never had a problem with it, my 5820k runs great at 4.4 at 1.27v with the hyper 212 evo


It's confusing. 212 is not bad, it's just that good air coolers can allow you to go 1,5v so comparing 212 to them is ridiculous. But I feel some people on this forum should be more delicate when they express their opinions, that's what you experienced.


----------



## Lucky 23

Where did you get that statistic? When stabilizing a 24/7 OC most air coolers will only handle up to 1.3-1.35v. Maybe a little higher for AMD


----------



## M0rb1d

This beauty is soon going to be in the computer I'm going to build:



2x CoolerMaster Jetflo white led.


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rb1d*
> 
> This beauty is soon going to be in the computer I'm going to build:
> 
> 
> 
> 2x CoolerMaster Jetflo white led.


About time! I was worried we're the only ones who tried this









Let me know how your temperatures are on IDLE, and at LOAD with your favorite applications and games, would love to see your results.


----------



## M0rb1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Felinni*
> 
> About time! I was worried we're the only ones who tried this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know how your temperatures are on IDLE, and at LOAD with your favorite applications and games, would love to see your results.


I will as soon as I have the PC build and set up.







I can probably order the other parts this weekend.
Here's the setup already:
CoolerMaster N200 case,
2x 4GB Kingston HyperX Fury black,
Intel Core i5 4690K,
MSI GTX970 Gaming,
MSI Z97M Gaming,
Cooler Master GM G650M,
500GB WD Black 7200RPM,
Crucial MX100 128GB,
CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo

All fans will be replaced with Jetflo's with white leds. 2 intake fans and 1 outtake + the CPU cooler in push-pull.


----------



## hazard99

Did anyone have an issue with the amd screws not holding correctly. I tried tightening in a cross pattern and the final one would pull free. So I took the bolts back off and none of them seem to hold the screws on place properly.. I was beyond frustrated feeling like I was going to have to remount the old hardware. I tried again but this time I didn't tighten the screws so tight and it's staying. So my question is how tight does everyone have thiers. I'm a little nervous that it may pull free but luckily my mobo lays flat.


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rb1d*
> 
> This beauty is soon going to be in the computer I'm going to build:
> 
> 
> 
> 2x CoolerMaster Jetflo white led.




I'm running with this set-up. I just re applied my MX-4 40hrs ago and did some stress test. Current temperature are the following.

4770K, 4.3ghz @ 1.27v

Ambient - 24C
XTU - 79C
Rendering (Autodesk Revit) - 80C
x264 - 80C
Intel Burn Test - 96C

How about you?

Are my temps too high?


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running with this set-up. I just re applied my MX-4 40hrs ago and did some stress test. Current temperature are the following.
> 
> 4770K, 4.3ghz @ 1.27v
> 
> Ambient - 24C
> XTU - 79C
> Rendering (Autodesk Revit) - 80C
> x264 - 80C
> Intel Burn Test - 96C
> 
> How about you?
> 
> Are my temps too high?


96 C ?






























yeah that's a bit warm, i would never let my cpu get over 70 C


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerjames*
> 
> 96 C ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah that's a bit warm, i would never let my cpu get over 70 C


I have not seen anyone having the same issues as mine. I cannot find anything that is causing this problem. I already replaced the thermal compound, reseated the cpu cooler, all fans are working. So i don't know what's the problem


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ace101*
> 
> I have not seen anyone having the same issues as mine. I cannot find anything that is causing this problem. I already replaced the thermal compound, reseated the cpu cooler, all fans are working. So i don't know what's the problem


what do you get at stock voltage and stock ghz?


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerjames*
> 
> what do you get at stock voltage and stock ghz?


I loaded the default settings except for the vcore @ 1.120

Ambient - 25C
XTU - 65C
Rendering - 64C
x264 - 66C
Intel Burn Test - 75C


----------



## expresso

Would anyone know if this cooler - Hyper 212 plus - would it fit on a corsair 300 R case - for a UD5H Mobo with 3770K - would this keep my temps in check even if i OC - ?

i am having a problem with my temps - right now i am using the Antec 920 for a few years now - i have it at 4.5 and 4.7 OC - 1.275 V

seemed fine for over a year - now its too hot - i tried a new paste - and i even delided my chip thinking it should cool it better - but to my surprise
it didnt - either my 920 is not working enough - or the mounting was bad -

i am getting tired of taking it off and redoing it - i was thinking of getting a Air cooler - what do you guys think - would this cooler bring my temps down or at least to the 70C under load - ?

i dont like the mounting on the antec 920 - i used MX 2 paste for both under and over on the Chip - my room temps are a little on the warmer side - but i dont remember having this issue before -

i am thinking of just running it stock and lower the Volts - or i have to do something if i want to OC - any ideas - ?

thanks -


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Would anyone know if this cooler - Hyper 212 plus - would it fit on a corsair 300 R case - for a UD5H Mobo with 3770K - would this keep my temps in check even if i OC - ?
> 
> i am having a problem with my temps - right now i am using the Antec 920 for a few years now - i have it at 4.5 and 4.7 OC - 1.275 V
> 
> seemed fine for over a year - now its too hot - i tried a new paste - and i even delided my chip thinking it should cool it better - but to my surprise
> it didnt - either my 920 is not working enough - or the mounting was bad -
> 
> i am getting tired of taking it off and redoing it - i was thinking of getting a Air cooler - what do you guys think - would this cooler bring my temps down or at least to the 70C under load - ?
> 
> i dont like the mounting on the antec 920 - i used MX 2 paste for both under and over on the Chip - my room temps are a little on the warmer side - but i dont remember having this issue before -
> 
> i am thinking of just running it stock and lower the Volts - or i have to do something if i want to OC - any ideas - ?
> 
> thanks -


Yup this cooler will fit in your case with that mobo. But I don't think it will be enough to handle your target temperature with your current OC settings. With stock settings yes you can achieve it (but not on my case with intel burn test).


----------



## Hangger

Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 2 Fan in Core i7 [email protected] Full 68c Happy with this Cooler


----------



## expresso

thanks - i will try to re apply the paste tonight - - i will use AS5 - thats what i have - and will use it both on core and lid of CPU - i delidded it and still not good enough at all - so its either i applied too much past on both core and lid - and maybe mounting not good enough

i cant think of anything else as to why i dont feel its cooling enough - only for stock settings - - but once i raise the volts and OC - even to 4 ghz -

not stable - i used to have it easily at 4.5 and 4.7 stable at 1.275 V - i am really starting to hate my antec 920 - i dont like how it mounts - dont feel its really good mounting system - backplate etc, -

and i hate that the Rad and fans cover the pump and have to remove it all the time to mount it again - i cant just remove the pump mounting on the chip - i have to remove the whole thing to get to my Chip

i try it again - if its not better and at least not worse than it is now - i may just leave it stock and use it till i decide on next build -

its been two years - and cant really complain much - maybe one year and half before it seemed to get too hot - when i first build it - and tested it with prime etc, - i did a good 6 or 8 hours full load at 4.7 - and worked fine - my temps were high even then at 95C 98C on full load - but it passed fine - i hardly load it that much for that long - during my normal use -

but now forget it - stock only so far - i see how it works out tonight - i dont expect 20C on idle - my room is warm - but i like to see 70C on full load or 80C at the very most - i figure maybe idle in the low 30C 35C - would be fine because its not cold in my room -


----------



## buttface420

quick question guys, i have the 212 evo coming and i wanted to add a second fan, i have 2 ARCTIC COOLING AF12025 120mm Case Cooling Fans laying around but they are only 1500rpm where-as the coolermaster one is 2000...would the af fans work good with it? are you guys using a y cable for your 2 fans to plug into one or just plug them both in the motherboard..i have 4 places for fans on my mb.

the fans i have are:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186005


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttface420*
> 
> quick question guys, i have the 212 evo coming and i wanted to add a second fan, i have 2 ARCTIC COOLING AF12025 120mm Case Cooling Fans laying around but they are only 1500rpm where-as the coolermaster one is 2000...would the af fans work good with it? are you guys using a y cable for your 2 fans to plug into one or just plug them both in the motherboard..i have 4 places for fans on my mb.
> 
> the fans i have are:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186005


Those should be fine. I absolutely recommend immediately replacing the stock fan. My stock fan lasted about a month before developing clicking and motor heat issues. As for the Y adapter.. Do you not have two CPU fan connectors on your board? You really need to add your rig to your signature so that we can know what parts you have.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttface420*
> 
> quick question guys, i have the 212 evo coming and i wanted to add a second fan, i have 2 ARCTIC COOLING AF12025 120mm Case Cooling Fans laying around but they are only 1500rpm where-as the coolermaster one is 2000...would the af fans work good with it? are you guys using a y cable for your 2 fans to plug into one or just plug them both in the motherboard..i have 4 places for fans on my mb.
> 
> the fans i have are:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186005


The 212 stock fan has 4-pin then it can be speed controled by PWM when plugged in the CPU Fan header.

The AF12025's exist in 2 versions with 3-pin and 4-pin PWM.

The AF12025 in the link is a 3-pin fan then it can be only speed regulated by DC.
If the CPU Fan header doesn't offer speed control by DC then 3-pin fans will spin at max speed.


----------



## M0rb1d

What is the best way to apply thermal paste for this cooler? I have the version with the flat bottom where the heatpipes touch eachother.


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M0rb1d*
> 
> What is the best way to apply thermal paste for this cooler? I have the version with the flat bottom where the heatpipes touch eachother.


I suggest a grain of rice method as you can view through the attached video below.


----------



## M0rb1d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Felinni*
> 
> I suggest a grain of rice method as you can view through the attached video below.
> 
> -snip-


Thanks alot!








My last parts will arrive today.


----------



## ChampN252

Hey guys. I just ordred an evo. What should I expect cooling wise? Its going in my gaming rig in a corsair 540. The cpu is a 4770k. I don't expect mircale numbers. I had the chance to get a h100i, but I was feeling this should be enuff for 4.2 to 4.3. I'm not looking to set records


----------



## ace101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChampN252*
> 
> Hey guys. I just ordred an evo. What should I expect cooling wise? Its going in my gaming rig in a corsair 540. The cpu is a 4770k. I don't expect mircale numbers. I had the chance to get a h100i, but I was feeling this should be enuff for 4.2 to 4.3. I'm not looking to set records


Yup it's enough for those clock speeds. Your voltage will dictate the outcome of the temperature though.


----------



## wongwarren

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChampN252*
> 
> Hey guys. I just ordred an evo. What should I expect cooling wise? Its going in my gaming rig in a corsair 540. The cpu is a 4770k. I don't expect mircale numbers. I had the chance to get a h100i, but I was feeling this should be enuff for 4.2 to 4.3. I'm not looking to set records


Just sharing my experience here. I have the 212X, the one with a slightly different fin design and much better fan. Right now I'm running my 3570k at 4.4 and temperatures never went above 70C with an ambient of 22C.


----------



## ozzy1925

i know its not the best option but since i am waiting for ek rampage v monoblock i decide to buy hyper 212x for my 5960x .I am not sure if its because i may be use 8 sticks of ram.
I measured the space around the cpu .


Do you think the 212x to rampage V without touching any ripjaw4 ram sticks?Thanks!


----------



## ChampN252

So mine is hooked up on my 4770k and I'm OCed to 4.6 at 1.275 volts. The highest temp I see while gaming is 76° C. I'm tempted to bump it one more tenth. Very impressed by this cooler, but I have a corsair 540 and it has great airflow. And above, I say no deal. I had to mount the fan on the other side because it couldn't clear my vengence ram.


----------



## ocer9999

Can someone tell me what the difference is between 212 Plus and EVO?


----------



## Leito360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ocer9999*
> 
> Can someone tell me what the difference is between 212 Plus and EVO?


The main difference is that in the EVO the heatpipes touch each other without any gaps, and the base is flat. In the Plus version, the heatpipes have some gaps and are connected via a aluminum mount with fins that cover the gap between each pipe.

Evo version is better, and X version is better than EVO.

Still, I would like to see a comparission between Plus; EVO and X in real life usage.


----------



## johnniedoo

I love my CM Hyper 212 Plus and EVO, do not have the X. I use them for my Phenom II and 1080BE and 960t BE with excellent results. I use Asetek AIO water for my FX8120 but from what I have read from this and the FX forum threads I did not need to use water there either.
I used 2fans with CM clips started with the included standard CM fan which I had bought 4 at a time for my builds sides or top when room for 2 up there. After I saw the other newer function specific fans put out, for pressure and silence, i got a couple of cougar and corsair.
But, I still use super high noise high pressure fans on my 1090T BE. I used the pwm header but , also put the fans on a control panel. I never see my thuban 1090be come close to maxing out. I do not have anything other than sensor readings to go by. Panaflo h version has no speed pin but can tell by sound . I used my scythe fans to experiment too. I had 3 kinds from the high speed short wide fin ultra kaze and Gran flex, flow and streams to compare with.
In other words,I like the CM heatsink and even after all that messing with whatever kind of fans that got top reviews over 4 or more years. I find this hyper 212 to be one of the top and enduring designs while costing half what other brand or models do. I overclock my Phenom/Thuban chips to 4.0-4.2gz with stability, though I run my 1090T be at 3.9gz all the time and my 960t be 3.7gz and phenomII 3.8gz and have run them for over 4yrs now on 2 of them. each with this $22 more or less heat sink and fan combo
I can not get my FX8120 with the water over 4.2gz. but i am not able to run any real comparisons that would prove anything. i just dont have enough of each to run against each other. my anecdotal reports are just my own experiences and at room temps that vary from 65°F to 76°F.
I never worry about any chip i have under my CM hyper 212 heat sink either, at low or idle ,when i may be away from them ,the heat sink alone is ok to keep them cool should a fan stop. cant say the same, necessarily, for the AIO water cooler.


----------



## mus1mus

Challenge for you guys.

I'm speccing out an X99 build for video editing with a 5820k.
Since this will be a business computer,no over clocking involved. All stock.

Question,will a hyper 212 be enough to keep things in control? If so,can anyone show screenies of their temps at load?

Thanks guys. I just need honest,real life proof.


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Challenge for you guys.
> 
> I'm speccing out an X99 build for video editing with a 5820k.
> Since this will be a business computer,no over clocking involved. All stock.
> 
> Question,will a hyper 212 be enough to keep things in control? If so,can anyone show screenies of their temps at load?
> 
> Thanks guys. I just need honest,real life proof.


If it's all stock, it might be. There's another user on this thread who has his on a 5820K if I'm not mistaken ( Just check the recent media in the thread ) and it seems to be doing well for him.


----------



## Mithinco

Just got a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus from Newegg's black friday sale. Gonna use it for a new i5 4690k build. I didn't know that there's a splitter cable to get 2 fans running on a PWM, so I'm glad I found this thread!

Hey guys, how many fans can I plug into one PWM plug? I'm seeing 2-3 fans and it depends on the motherboard and fans. What's the general consensus? Any good PWM splitter cable to recommend?

I have 2 PWM headers and I'm going to add a 2nd fan for the heatsink and try to max out the remaining header.

I know this thread is long but thought it'd be easier to ask.


----------



## GTXMike

Hiya. I have CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO with push & pull setup using two Corsair SP120. I overclocked my i7 4820K from 3.7 to 4.5Ghz and after running Prime95 for 5 minutes CPU reaches max temp of 75 degrees







Is it normal on this cooler? I'm thinking @ 4.5Ghz temps are way to high. Is it the fault of the fans? They spin max @ 1500 RPM... or maybe guys from PCSpecialists didn't applied thermal paste right? Paste is ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND.


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mithinco*
> 
> Just got a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus from Newegg's black friday sale. Gonna use it for a new i5 4690k build. I didn't know that there's a splitter cable to get 2 fans running on a PWM, so I'm glad I found this thread!
> 
> Hey guys, how many fans can I plug into one PWM plug? I'm seeing 2-3 fans and it depends on the motherboard and fans. What's the general consensus? Any good PWM splitter cable to recommend?
> 
> I have 2 PWM headers and I'm going to add a 2nd fan for the heatsink and try to max out the remaining header.
> 
> I know this thread is long but thought it'd be easier to ask.


Motherboard fan headers are tipically rated 1A / 12W.
It would be fine to hook fans in the same header since the combined amperage / wattage doesn't exceed that rating.

There's 2-way splitters like this and this.

Some splitters like this or this draw power from the PSU then there's no risks to exceed the fan header power rating.

For splitters powered by the PSU the speed control will work only by PWM.

Not all 4-pin headers are PWM.
For most boards only the CPU Fan header offers PWM control and others 4-pin headers are actually DC control.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXMike*
> 
> Hiya. I have CoolerMaster Hyper 212 EVO with push & pull setup using two Corsair SP120. I overclocked my i7 4820K from 3.7 to 4.5Ghz and after running Prime95 for 5 minutes CPU reaches max temp of 75 degrees
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it normal on this cooler? I'm thinking @ 4.5Ghz temps are way to high. Is it the fault of the fans? They spin max @ 1500 RPM... or maybe guys from PCSpecialists didn't applied thermal paste right? Paste is ARCTIC MX-4 EXTREME THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY COMPOUND.


Yes completely normal under PRIME95


----------



## GTXMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Yes completely normal under PRIME95


Thanks mate. I was worried I can damage my CPU. I want to push 4.7Ghz but on WC.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXMike*
> 
> Thanks mate. I was worried I can damage my CPU. I want to push 4.7Ghz but on WC.


You bet! You're actually doing better then most who have attempted to benchmark with PRIME95 using the Hyper 212 EVO, I don't condone using PRIME95 as a measure for temperatures as I would for stability as real world application temperatures will be much lower. For reference what are your ambient temps?


----------



## GTXMike

Between 30 and 40.


----------



## GTXMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> You bet! You're actually doing better then most who have attempted to benchmark with PRIME95 using the Hyper 212 EVO, I don't condone using PRIME95 as a measure for temperatures as I would for stability as real world application temperatures will be much lower. For reference what are your ambient temps?


30-40


----------



## GTXMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> You bet! You're actually doing better then most who have attempted to benchmark with PRIME95 using the Hyper 212 EVO, I don't condone using PRIME95 as a measure for temperatures as I would for stability as real world application temperatures will be much lower. For reference what are your ambient temps?


But I noticed that the Core #4 is the hottest when it's at 75 the rest can be at 70. How so?


----------



## GTXMike

Results after playing Bioshock Infinitie on max settings for an hour. As you can see core #4 have +5 degrees, wonder why? Thermal paste not applied correctly?


----------



## kjrayo18

I bought the plus for my for my i5 4690k and just switched the fan to a cm jetflo hopefully it allows me to overclock it I'm still waiting for it in the mail ?


----------



## CM-Patrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXMike*
> 
> Results after playing Bioshock Infinitie on max settings for an hour. As you can see core #4 have +5 degrees, wonder why? Thermal paste not applied correctly?


Hello GTXMike,

The Hyper 212 EVO is properly cooling your CPU. It is quite normal with Intel CPU's to have a 5c-8c difference between the coolest and hottest core so nothing to worry about.

If you have any other questions, please let me know.

Respectfully,
Patrick
CMUSA Support


----------



## GTXMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM-Patrick*
> 
> Hello GTXMike,
> 
> The Hyper 212 EVO is properly cooling your CPU. It is quite normal with Intel CPU's to have a 5c-8c difference between the coolest and hottest core so nothing to worry about.
> 
> If you have any other questions, please let me know.
> 
> Respectfully,
> Patrick
> CMUSA Support


Thanks for the info. It's a very good cooler btw







Love it


----------



## CM-Patrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXMike*
> 
> Thanks for the info. It's a very good cooler btw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love it


Anytime


----------



## Baldy

Just bought parts for my new rig, and the cooler of choice is the EVO. Had the 212+ about 4 years ago and loved it, so hope the EVO treats me just as well with a 4690K!









On another note, for users with a similar rig set-up, what OC's have y'all managed with an EVO and a 4690K?


----------



## slumbarr

Can anyone tell me what's the difference between Hyper 212 EVO vs. Plus vs. X?

http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Lines/cpu-air-cooler/


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slumbarr*
> 
> Can anyone tell me what's the difference between Hyper 212 EVO vs. Plus vs. X?
> 
> http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Lines/cpu-air-cooler/


Our Hyper 212X has a much more efficient fan with a POM bearing compared to the EVO which has a Rifle Sleeve bearing as well as minor improvements to the heat-sink. It is currently only available through our EU and ROW regions as I do not have a solid ETA for North America.


 *Hyper 212 EVO**Hyper 212 X**Fan Speed (RPM)*600 - 2,000 RPM600 - 2,000 RPM*Air Flow (CFM)*24.9 - 82.9 CFM24.9 - 82.9 CFM*Static Pressure (mm/H20)*0.3 - 2.7 mm/H200.3 - 2.09 mm/H20*Bearing*Rifle SleevePOM*Fan Life Expectancy (MTBF)*40,000160,000*Fan Noise (dBA)*9 - 36 dBA9 - 36 dBA


----------



## Rohela

Hey guys.

I got my Hyper 212X installed it and dialed in my over clock. I am running a AMD FX-6100 @ 4.0GHz & Vcore @ 1.403789V. So question is after I installed and ran prime 95 for about an hour and my max temp was 35C and min of 13C. Now here is my concerns on the mentioned overclock I get min of 15-18C and max of 37C. MY Nb temp never goes over 52C. Sometimes on boot core temp tells me that core 4 is at 102C.

Detailed Specs:
CPU: AMD FX-6100 @ 4.0GHz & Vcore @ 1.403789V
Mobo: Asus M5A78L-M/USB3
CM Hyper 212X
Case: NZXT Phantom 410
Fans: 1x140mm front intake, 2x120mm top exhaust, 1x120mm rear exhaust, 1x120mm bottom intake (all run on medium)
PSU: 650W Aerocool

Average room temp +/- 23C-27C

I used core temp, smart fan control and HWMonitor to monitor temps and all give me the same temp.


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rohela*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> I got my Hyper 212X installed it and dialed in my over clock. I am running a *AMD FX-6100 @ 4.0GHz & Vcore @ 1.403789V*. So question is after I installed and ran *prime 95* for about an hour and my *max temp was 35C and min of 13C.* Now here is my concerns on the mentioned overclock I get min of 15-18C and max of 37C. MY Nb temp never goes over 52C. Sometimes on boot core temp tells me that core 4 is at 102C.
> 
> Detailed Specs:
> CPU: AMD FX-6100 @ 4.0GHz & Vcore @ 1.403789V
> Mobo: Asus M5A78L-M/USB3
> CM Hyper 212X
> Case: NZXT Phantom 410
> Fans: 1x140mm front intake, 2x120mm top exhaust, 1x120mm rear exhaust, 1x120mm bottom intake (all run on medium)
> PSU: 650W Aerocool
> 
> Average room temp +/- 23C-27C
> 
> I used core temp, smart fan control and HWMonitor to monitor temps and all give me the same temp.


Those are some really great temperatures during a PRIME 95 run, however it is a bit alarming as I have not seen even a liquid cooler achieve this coolness. What are your PRIME 95 Settings? I suggest you test Small FFT and Blend as they will stress your CPU. If you set it to Large FFT it will mainly stress your ram, therefore will not see a true indication of CPU performance. Can you post images of your PRIME95 and HWMonitor temperatures?


----------



## Rohela

I am running the torture test small FTT and blend


----------



## CM-Patrick

Hello Rohela,

The temperatures do seem low for an OC that is using 1.440 Vcore. Have you tried reseating the cooler to see if this has any effect?

Respectfully,
Patrick
CMUSA Support


----------



## automaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kjrayo18*
> 
> I bought the plus for my for my i5 4690k and just switched the fan to a cm jetflo hopefully it allows me to overclock it I'm still waiting for it in the mail ?


here is an interesting utility shws all temps mobo hdd etc also shows cores https://www.piriform.com/speccy


----------



## Rohela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> here is an interesting utility shws all temps mobo hdd etc also shows cores https://www.piriform.com/speccy


will try when I get home from work.

Tried OCCT last night and same results.


Why is my Vcore higher than the CPU over voltage set in BIOS and Vcore under load is lower than Vcore while idle


----------



## CM-Patrick

I would also check to see if you have the latest BIOS release for your motherboard

Respectfully,
Patrick
CMUSA Support


----------



## Rohela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> here is an interesting utility shws all temps mobo hdd etc also shows cores https://www.piriform.com/speccy


Tried it and get the same temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM-Patrick*
> 
> I would also check to see if you have the latest BIOS release for your motherboard


I do have the latest bios. I also notice that I am throttling @ 3.9ghz there is also Vdrop.


----------



## Rohela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> here is an interesting utility shws all temps mobo hdd etc also shows cores https://www.piriform.com/speccy


Tried it and get the same temps.(double posted how do i delete )


----------



## ContractorHei

I need help. Not exactly sure where to post this, but seeing as the cooler basically halted the whole thing... (Please move if needed)

I got my system today, a 5820K, Asrock X99 Extreme4 motherboard and a 212EVO cooler.
In the process of installing the standoff screws, one of them broke in my socket after trying to secure it a bit tighter and now the threading is stuck in one of the holes.
It looks like this: http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/motherboards/asus/z9pe_d8/coolermaster_hyper_412slim/asus_z9pe_d8_coolmaster_412s_broken_standoff_03.jpg
(not my picture, but basically the same thing)

I've sent a RMA request to the shop I've purchased it from, but as they might simply disclose this as an user error, I'd like to receive some help on this.
(I'll edit or reply whether it goes through or not)

I've searched around and read a bit about it and it seems that I either have to drill it out, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with that. Plus it seems like I need to remove the socket and/or backplate for it. The person who took the picture above managed to get his out by taking out the socket and drilling it out. Is it *safe* to remove the CPU socket and how would I go about doing that? Or are there any other methods? Any help is appreciated.

Oh where would I find a replacement standoff? Can I request a replacement from Cooler Master?

References: http://i4memory.com/showthread.php?t=39923


----------



## GTXMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ContractorHei*
> 
> I need help. Not exactly sure where to post this, but seeing as the cooler basically halted the whole thing... (Please move if needed)
> 
> I got my system today, a 5820K, Asrock X99 Extreme4 motherboard and a 212EVO cooler.
> In the process of installing the standoff screws, one of them broke in my socket after trying to secure it a bit tighter and now the threading is stuck in one of the holes.
> It looks like this: http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/motherboards/asus/z9pe_d8/coolermaster_hyper_412slim/asus_z9pe_d8_coolmaster_412s_broken_standoff_03.jpg
> (not my picture, but basically the same thing)
> 
> I've sent a RMA request to the shop I've purchased it from, but as they might simply disclose this as an user error, I'd like to receive some help on this.
> (I'll edit or reply whether it goes through or not)
> 
> I've searched around and read a bit about it and it seems that I either have to drill it out, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with that. Plus it seems like I need to remove the socket and/or backplate for it. The person who took the picture above managed to get his out by taking out the socket and drilling it out. Is it *safe* to remove the CPU socket and how would I go about doing that? Or are there any other methods? Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Oh where would I find a replacement standoff? Can I request a replacement from Cooler Master?
> 
> References: http://i4memory.com/showthread.php?t=39923


If you have a friendly mechanic pop in with mobo and ask for screw extractor







works like a charm.


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ContractorHei*
> 
> I need help. Not exactly sure where to post this, but seeing as the cooler basically halted the whole thing... (Please move if needed)
> 
> I got my system today, a 5820K, Asrock X99 Extreme4 motherboard and a 212EVO cooler.
> In the process of installing the standoff screws, one of them broke in my socket after trying to secure it a bit tighter and now the threading is stuck in one of the holes.
> It looks like this: http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/motherboards/asus/z9pe_d8/coolermaster_hyper_412slim/asus_z9pe_d8_coolmaster_412s_broken_standoff_03.jpg
> (not my picture, but basically the same thing)
> 
> I've sent a RMA request to the shop I've purchased it from, but as they might simply disclose this as an user error, I'd like to receive some help on this.
> (I'll edit or reply whether it goes through or not)
> 
> I've searched around and read a bit about it and it seems that I either have to drill it out, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with that. Plus it seems like I need to remove the socket and/or backplate for it. The person who took the picture above managed to get his out by taking out the socket and drilling it out. Is it *safe* to remove the CPU socket and how would I go about doing that? Or are there any other methods? Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Oh where would I find a replacement standoff? Can I request a replacement from Cooler Master?
> 
> References: http://i4memory.com/showthread.php?t=39923


What tool did you use to torque the standoff into the thread?

If you're located in North America you can apply for a Parts Request for additional accessories through our CM Fanzone along with your purchase invoice and serial number at the following link:

*CM Fanzone:* Link

*Parts Request Guide:* Link

I look forward to your response.


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ContractorHei*
> 
> I need help. Not exactly sure where to post this, but seeing as the cooler basically halted the whole thing... (Please move if needed)
> 
> I got my system today, a 5820K, Asrock X99 Extreme4 motherboard and a 212EVO cooler.
> In the process of installing the standoff screws, one of them broke in my socket after trying to secure it a bit tighter and now the threading is stuck in one of the holes.
> It looks like this: http://i4memory.com/reviewimages/motherboards/asus/z9pe_d8/coolermaster_hyper_412slim/asus_z9pe_d8_coolmaster_412s_broken_standoff_03.jpg
> (not my picture, but basically the same thing)
> 
> I've sent a RMA request to the shop I've purchased it from, but as they might simply disclose this as an user error, I'd like to receive some help on this.
> (I'll edit or reply whether it goes through or not)
> 
> I've searched around and read a bit about it and it seems that I either have to drill it out, but I feel pretty uncomfortable with that. Plus it seems like I need to remove the socket and/or backplate for it. The person who took the picture above managed to get his out by taking out the socket and drilling it out. Is it *safe* to remove the CPU socket and how would I go about doing that? Or are there any other methods? Any help is appreciated.
> 
> Oh where would I find a replacement standoff? Can I request a replacement from Cooler Master?
> 
> References: http://i4memory.com/showthread.php?t=39923


how did you manage to break a metal screw









ummmmm..... this is why I bought my stuff locally at microcenter.

If that had somehow happened to me I would say.... mail the motherboard and hsf back and ask for replacements. But that's me, I'm not using a drill on a brand new motherboard.


----------



## ContractorHei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTXMike*
> 
> If you have a friendly mechanic pop in with mobo and ask for screw extractor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> works like a charm.


If the retailer refuses my appeal then I have no choice but to go and search for one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Felinni*
> 
> What tool did you use to torque the standoff into the thread?
> 
> If you're located in North America you can apply for a Parts Request for additional accessories through our CM Fanzone along with your purchase invoice and serial number at the following link:
> 
> *CM Fanzone:* Link
> 
> *Parts Request Guide:* Link
> 
> I look forward to your response.


I've used the standoff fastening tool that came with it to try and fasten the standoff a little more but it broke on the first "gentle" twist. I've done it to each of the other three standoffs and upon trying to secure the last one it broke..
I'm not located in NA but in Europe (Netherlands to be precise); am I still eligible for this?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerjames*
> 
> how did you manage to break a metal screw
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ummmmm..... this is why I bought my stuff locally at microcenter.
> 
> If that had somehow happened to me I would say.... mail the motherboard and hsf back and ask for replacements. But that's me, I'm not using a drill on a brand new motherboard.


I don't know, it broke off really easily trying to secure it just a little tighter.

Yeah, I did an RMA request, we'll see what they'll respond with.

Edit: Update here. The retailer acknowledged the defect and I'll be getting a new motherboard and fan soon!


----------



## Micky Love

Hi !

I just installed an Hyper 212 Evo on my new build (Haswell i5-4460) and since I'm new about
PC building/cooling, I was wondering if those temps looks normal to you... Everything is stock,
CPU is locked... CPU reached 56'C

This is after 15min with Prime95:







With the Intel cooler, the CPU reached 70'C in 3 or 4 mins !!

Thanks !

ML


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Micky Love*
> 
> Hi !
> 
> I just installed an Hyper 212 Evo on my new build (Haswell i5-4460) and since I'm new about
> PC building/cooling, I was wondering if those temps looks normal to you... Everything is stock,
> CPU is locked...
> 
> This is after 15min with Prime64:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the Intel cooler, the CPU reached 70'C in 3 or 4 mins !!
> 
> Thanks !
> 
> ML


is that with one 120mm fan or two 120mm fans? That seems high for two 120mm fans, I don't know what one 120mm fan should be.


----------



## Micky Love

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerjames*
> 
> is that with one 120mm fan or two 120mm fans? That seems high for two 120mm fans, I don't know what one 120mm fan should be.


it's with one 120mm fan... still too hot ?

ML


----------



## greasemonky89

loving my 212+ i got on clearance at a local pc shop. easy install with mobo out since my case is old no mobo cut out on the other side lame i know.


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Micky Love*
> 
> it's with one 120mm fan... still too hot ?
> 
> ML


mid 60's at stock temperatures? Sounds hot to me, is the hyper 212 seated right? How does that compare to other people with that CPU?


----------



## Micky Love

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerjames*
> 
> mid 60's at stock temperatures? Sounds hot to me, is the hyper 212 seated right? How does that compare to other people with that CPU?


Just to be clear, it's mid 60's (cores temps) after a good shot of Prime95...
My idle temp is around 30 (cores temps). The CPU is not overclocked by the way.

We probably did not understand each other, sorry english is not my first language...
Anyway, after searching the Interweb







, it looks like it's a pretty descent
temperature actually...

Thanks anyway !

Mike


----------



## Quantum Reality

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dachiesa*
> 
> Hey guys I posted on an old thread, just in case I'll ask here too.
> 
> My first gaming rig, I put too much TIM on the cpu/heatsink. It actually came out the sides when I screwed it down. Got it cleaned up. Should I start it up and see how temps do at first or just go ahead and change it all out?
> 
> Also, I ended up screwing all the way down to the bracket (it went smooth without too many tight spots). Should I back the screws out a bit to save stress on the motherboard? Or is this not a big deal.
> 
> Thanks


In my case, I screwed them all down until I met resistance, then gave about another 1/6 of a turn.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Micky Love*
> I just installed an Hyper 212 Evo on my new build (Haswell i5-4460) and since I'm new about
> PC building/cooling, I was wondering if those temps looks normal to you... Everything is stock,
> CPU is locked... CPU reached 56'C


Pretty normal IMV. Stock G3258 = 40 - 45 C under Prime95 load for me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rohela*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *automaton*
> 
> here is an interesting utility shws all temps mobo hdd etc also shows cores https://www.piriform.com/speccy
> 
> 
> 
> will try when I get home from work.
> 
> (image redacted for size)
> 
> Tried OCCT last night and same results.
> 
> (Image redacted for size)
> Why is my Vcore higher than the CPU over voltage set in BIOS and Vcore under load is lower than Vcore while idle
Click to expand...

This may be due to vDroop, and if so, is normal. The idea is to reduce heat output under load, as I understand it, as well as mitigating the deleterious effects of accidental overvoltages when you change from idle to load.


----------



## SeD669

Heya guys. What temperatures should i be expecting with my i7-950 without an OC and this cooler? From idle to gaming.


----------



## Urbane

My question is how much difference did a second 120mmx120mm cooler master fan make in idle/full load temps for you guys compared to one fan? No use adding extra load to the system if it only makes a one centigrade difference.

Unfortunately I don't feel like filtering through 1000 posts on this thread and the search led me to paste questions.

Thanks,
Urbane


----------



## Urbane

Please can anyone answer the question about the second fan please? Does it make a noticeable difference?


----------



## Micky Love

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Urbane*
> 
> Please can anyone answer the question about the second fan please? Does it make a noticeable difference?


no, not a big difference... 2 degrees at best... probably no difference at all if your cooler is installed
near an exhaust fan (rear/top case fan for exemple).

In my rig (see picture), there is no difference, not even 1 degree !

Mike


----------



## Urbane

Nice kitty you've got there mike!

Thank you for the advice, I might put an LED one in there just for that vision through the side.

Your set up looks a bit like mine, except the SSD and HDD are attached above on the upper deck as to not affect cooling.

See you around!


----------



## manicd

My bearings and fan start going out of balance, making a clicking/tapping noise throughout the rpm range. This was about 5 months after I bought it.

Edited: Update - Coolermaster sent out a replacement fan.


----------



## CM-Patrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manicd*
> 
> NO LONGER RECOMMENDING 212 EVO. If you have fail problems coolermaster doesn't care. They won't help you. My bearings and fan start going out of balance, making a clicking/tapping noise throughout the rpm range. This was about 5 after I bought it. Coolermaster has a parts request system which I filled out. They later send an auto email saying my RMA has been approved. I look back at the site and had deleted my pars request and started an RMA which is in a complete different section. They didn't call or email me, except for the auto email telling me to ship back my product back. SCREW YOU COOLERMASTER, just send another $6 dollar fan and hopefully it lasts your 2 year/ 50,000 hour rating.


Hello manicd,

Yes we do request that all EVO fans be sent back to us through RMA. The representative did not delete your part request, they converted it to an RMA since you selected the wrong option. Aside from the fan, all other parts can be obtained through part request.

Also, the part request option will be available again once the 212 EVO Fan RMA has been completed.

If you contact us next week, we will send you a return shipping label for the fan.

Please contact us in the future by Phone, Ticket or Live chat so that we can resolve the issue.
https://account.coolermaster.com/LogOn.aspx

Phone: 888-624-5099

FYI: I replied to your post on CM Forums also so let me know if you have any further questions.

Respectfully,
Patrick
CMUSA Support


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manicd*
> 
> NO LONGER RECOMMENDING 212 EVO. If you have fail problems coolermaster doesn't care. They won't help you. My bearings and fan start going out of balance, making a clicking/tapping noise throughout the rpm range. This was about 5 after I bought it. Coolermaster has a parts request system which I filled out. They later send an auto email saying my RMA has been approved. I look back at the site and had deleted my pars request and started an RMA which is in a complete different section. They didn't call or email me, except for the auto email telling me to ship back my product back. SCREW YOU COOLERMASTER, just send another $6 dollar fan and hopefully it lasts your 2 year/ 50,000 hour rating.


Wow really...?







Doesn't sound like you even contacted Cooler Master at all... QQ... Sounds like a normal RMA process to me, you pay to ship your defective product and once they receive it they will cover your replacement.
Quote:


> *3. What Is and Is Not Covered*
> 
> It is important to note that our warranty is not an unconditional guarantee for the duration of the Program. Any replaced parts become the property of Cooler Master. The Program does not apply to the software component of a product or a product which has been damaged due to accident, misuse, abuse, improper installation, usage not in accordance with product specifications and instructions, natural or personal disaster, or unauthorized alterations, repairs or modifications.
> The Program does not cover any events such as below:
> 
> 
> Any damages unrelated to manufacturing defects.
> Any unsuitable environment or use of the product in Cooler Master Opinion.
> Any product which has been modified without official permission from Cooler Master, or on which the serial number or warranty sticker has been defaced, modified, or removed.
> Damage, deterioration or malfunction resulting from:
> Accident, abuse, misuse, neglect, fire, water, lightning, or other acts of nature, commercial or industrial use, unauthorized product modification or failure to follow instructions included with the product.
> Third party products using Cooler Master Components will not be covered by warranty. See your vendor or the manufacturer for information about servicing.
> Repair or attempted repair by anyone not authorized by Cooler Master, Inc.
> Any shipment damages (claims must be made with the carrier).
> Unauthorized repairs to a Cooler Master product will void the warranty offered by the Program. Cooler Master reserves the right to refuse to service any product which has been altered, modified or repaired by non- Cooler Master Service personnel.
> Cooler Master does not warrant that this product will meet your requirements. It is your responsibility to determine the suitability of this product for your purpose.
> Removal or installation charges.
> *You are responsible for the cost of shipping the product to Cooler Master. Cooler Master pays the cost of returning a product to you.*
> Cooler Master reserves the right to replace the product with a service product at their sole discretion at any time.


*Cooler Master Warranty Information:* Link

Sounds like you're just upset that you can't follow the directions... #selfentitledmuch?

*Drops MIC*


----------



## manicd

Thanks for using the MIC for something you don't understand. Coolermaster has an online parts request system for registered products , completely separate from their online RMA request. They list the fan as being replaceable from a drop down selection mention. When I requested the fan and listed my reasons. It gave an update when it would be approved. They deleted that request and changed it to RMA. This is my problem. Don't list the fan as being replaceable without needing RMA. And then request the RMA. I followed their system and they switch on me. Don't make me get screenshots. I'm entitled to a product free of defects under THEIR warranty. Maybe you're the one who is entitled because you have 1000+ posts. Thanks for the help... yeah.


----------



## manicd

Why would I make this up. Check my post history dude.

Here is my problem. I requested parts through their system which listed fan as being a part. Then they approve an RMA which I want nothing to do with when they originally let me request a fan through THEIR SYSTEM!

Here is the email proof. I wouldn't have posted this if they just followed through with their own parts system.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manicd*
> 
> Thanks for using the MIC for something you don't understand. Coolermaster has an online parts request system for registered products , completely separate from their online RMA request. They list the fan as being replaceable from a drop down selection mention. When I requested the fan and listed my reasons. It gave an update when it would be approved. They deleted that request and changed it to RMA. This is my problem. Don't list the fan as being replaceable without needing RMA. And then request the RMA. I followed their system and they switch on me. Don't make me get screenshots. I'm entitled to a product free of defects under THEIR warranty. Maybe you're the one who is entitled because you have 1000+ posts. Thanks for the help... yeah.


TL/DR

Apparently you haven't used their parts request system as it's pretty simple and straight to the point as I've had to RMA a keyboard and request parts for me Elite 130 from them. Of course I paid to have my defective keyboard shipped to them as they upgraded me to another one and they covered the shipping back to me. (Albeit a little slow at times in shipping) It's a normal process for a lot of of hardware manufacturers...

You're crying about shipping your 120mm fan which would cost about a few bucks with USPS, apparently your priorities are screwy and require evaluation. I would imagine this would be a good opportunity to upgrade the fan to some thing way better such as a Gentle Typhoon or a Noctua..

Show the screen shots all you want as it looks like the CM team is proactive in assisting you. Can't blame them for your ignorance....

Now pick up my mic..


----------



## Quantum Reality

You do realize Cooler Master doesn't want people just being able to get free fans willy-nilly? Sending a defective part back is pretty standard procedure.


----------



## manicd

IF THEY DON"T WANT TO SEND FANS< THEN DON"T GIVE ME THE OPTION TO REQUEST IT. There was literally a default menu to select fan replacement. It was pending approval, with the next check marks listing my shipping address and everything. They now deleted it and send me an auto email for RMA request. That's fine. Just don't bait and switch me with your own system.


----------



## MonarchX

I need an honest opinion: Does my CM Hyper 212 EVO look sort of cheap in my rig (see sig picture, please)? I think it stands as a weakling... Is there a way to spice the way it looks? I could add another fan to the left side of the heatsink, but that alone won't make it look that much better. Is there some way to add some blur or some red to it? As you can see my RAM is red + some black and my GTX 980 is black with some red, but my motherboard is blue and front fans use white LED's. That leaves 3 choices for CPU cooler - red, blue, or black..., but not silver/metal color it is now.

I would love to see some very tidy and neat cases with Hyper 212 EVO or 212 Plus or whichever CM Hyper 212 version they have now. I want some ideas because my case is rather messy, boring, and just "blah"...


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> I need an honest opinion: Does my CM Hyper 212 EVO look sort of cheap in my rig (see sig picture, please)? I think it stands as a weakling... Is there a way to spice the way it looks? I could add another fan to the left side of the heatsink, but that alone won't make it look that much better. Is there some way to add some blur or some red to it? As you can see my RAM is red + some black and my GTX 980 is black with some red, but my motherboard is blue and front fans use white LED's. That leaves 3 choices for CPU cooler - red, blue, or black..., but not silver/metal color it is now.
> 
> I would love to see some very tidy and neat cases with Hyper 212 EVO or 212 Plus or whichever CM Hyper 212 version they have now. I want some ideas because my case is rather messy, boring, and just "blah"...


I think maybe carbon fiber the top would spice it up a bit...


----------



## Boinz

I've seen one person use 2 parts of a broken cd to "pop" off one of the top fins, then paint it black and then place it back on. Didn't affect performance according to him.

I believe it was a user here called Gavush:
http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1812436/a/836050/rig-photos/


----------



## Micky Love

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> I need an honest opinion: Does my CM Hyper 212 EVO look sort of cheap in my rig (see sig picture, please)? I think it stands as a weakling... Is there a way to spice the way it looks? I could add another fan to the left side of the heatsink, but that alone won't make it look that much better. Is there some way to add some blur or some red to it? As you can see my RAM is red + some black and my GTX 980 is black with some red, but my motherboard is blue and front fans use white LED's. That leaves 3 choices for CPU cooler - red, blue, or black..., but not silver/metal color it is now.
> 
> I would love to see some very tidy and neat cases with Hyper 212 EVO or 212 Plus or whichever CM Hyper 212 version they have now. I want some ideas because my case is rather messy, boring, and just "blah"...


I think it looks 0k, but since there is place on top to install at least a h100i









Mike

Black would look cool:


----------



## MonarchX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> I think maybe carbon fiber the top would spice it up a bit...


Where do I get it and how do I put it on?


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> I think maybe carbon fiber the top would spice it up a bit...
> 
> 
> 
> Where do I get it and how do I put it on?
Click to expand...

It's a (usually) vinyl peel n stick that would make the top fin of your EVO look something like this:



For instance here: http://smile.amazon.com/SimCarbon-Carbon-Fiber-Vinyl-BLACK/dp/B0059XCVVO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1421441320&sr=8-7&keywords=carbon+fiber+vinyl

You should look around though, I just grabbed this one for reference.


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM-Patrick*
> 
> Hello manicd,
> 
> Yes we do request that all EVO fans be sent back to us through RMA. The representative did not delete your part request, they converted it to an RMA since you selected the wrong option. Aside from the fan, all other parts can be obtained through part request.
> 
> Also, the part request option will be available again once the 212 EVO Fan RMA has been completed.
> 
> If you contact us next week, we will send you a return shipping label for the fan.
> 
> Please contact us in the future by Phone, Ticket or Live chat so that we can resolve the issue.
> https://account.coolermaster.com/LogOn.aspx
> 
> Phone: 888-624-5099
> 
> FYI: I replied to your post on CM Forums also so let me know if you have any further questions.
> 
> Respectfully,
> Patrick
> CMUSA Support


wow Coolermaster







that's legit. Hey can you make motherboards? My gigabyte x99 board sucks and their customer service don't care at all despite tons of complaints everywhere.


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> I need an honest opinion: Does my CM Hyper 212 EVO look sort of cheap in my rig (see sig picture, please)? I think it stands as a weakling... Is there a way to spice the way it looks? I could add another fan to the left side of the heatsink, but that alone won't make it look that much better. Is there some way to add some blur or some red to it? As you can see my RAM is red + some black and my GTX 980 is black with some red, but my motherboard is blue and front fans use white LED's. That leaves 3 choices for CPU cooler - red, blue, or black..., but not silver/metal color it is now.
> 
> I would love to see some very tidy and neat cases with Hyper 212 EVO or 212 Plus or whichever CM Hyper 212 version they have now. I want some ideas because my case is rather messy, boring, and just "blah"...


looks fine to me....


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> I need an honest opinion: Does my CM Hyper 212 EVO look sort of cheap in my rig (see sig picture, please)? I think it stands as a weakling... Is there a way to spice the way it looks? I could add another fan to the left side of the heatsink, but that alone won't make it look that much better. Is there some way to add some blur or some red to it? As you can see my RAM is red + some black and my GTX 980 is black with some red, but my motherboard is blue and front fans use white LED's. That leaves 3 choices for CPU cooler - red, blue, or black..., but not silver/metal color it is now.
> 
> I would love to see some very tidy and neat cases with Hyper 212 EVO or 212 Plus or whichever CM Hyper 212 version they have now. I want some ideas because my case is rather messy, boring, and just "blah"...


here's mine with hyper 212 plus evo in a coolermaster haf xb case. Actual photos from iphone, no photoshopping of colors.


----------



## Brandon138

Hi, new here. I'm doing a first PC build and currently trying to choose the best CPU cooler. I was going to go with the Noctua NH-D15, but decided I probably don't need one quite that expensive(or bulky). Is the CM Hyper 212 still a good buy? As I see it's a few years old now. I will probably do some overclocking later on so I want to make sure I have no heat problems. Would you suggest the CM still or something else? My budget would probably go up to ~$60 for a CPU cooler.

If it helps, here's the rest of my list so far. It's prettymuch finalized.

*CPU:* Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.75 @ OutletPC)
*CPU Cooler:* Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
*Motherboard:* Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($204.99 @ Amazon)
*Memory:* G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($67.50 @ Newegg)
*Storage:* Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($125.75 @ OutletPC)
*Storage:* Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.97 @ OutletPC)
*Video Card:* Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($359.99 @ Amazon)
*Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($112.99 @ SuperBiiz)
*Power Supply:* EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
*Optical Drive:* Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
*Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($88.98 @ OutletPC)
*Wireless Network Adapter:* TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($38.75 @ OutletPC)
*Case Fan:* Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($18.98 @ Amazon)


----------



## MonarchX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandon138*
> 
> Hi, new here. I'm doing a first PC build and currently trying to choose the best CPU cooler. I was going to go with the Noctua NH-D15, but decided I probably don't need one quite that expensive(or bulky). Is the CM Hyper 212 still a good buy? As I see it's a few years old now. I will probably do some overclocking later on so I want to make sure I have no heat problems. Would you suggest the CM still or something else? My budget would probably go up to ~$60 for a CPU cooler.
> 
> If it helps, here's the rest of my list so far. It's prettymuch finalized.
> 
> *CPU:* Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.75 @ OutletPC)
> *CPU Cooler:* Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
> *Motherboard:* Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($204.99 @ Amazon)
> *Memory:* G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($67.50 @ Newegg)
> *Storage:* Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($125.75 @ OutletPC)
> *Storage:* Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.97 @ OutletPC)
> *Video Card:* Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($359.99 @ Amazon)
> *Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($112.99 @ SuperBiiz)
> *Power Supply:* EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
> *Optical Drive:* Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
> *Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($88.98 @ OutletPC)
> *Wireless Network Adapter:* TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($38.75 @ OutletPC)
> *Case Fan:* Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($18.98 @ Amazon)


CM Hyper 212 EVO has been out-performed by several cheap coolers, such as Cryorig H5, Cryorig H7, and my favorite Cryorig R1 Universal. All of them do better than CM Hyper 212 EVO, and I believe H5 and H7 are within the same price range. ALL of them are Universal and will fit regardless of how tall your memory sticks are. My favorite is Cryorig R1 Universal because it cools the best, but cost slightly higher than others. I would suggest the R1 Universal because that 4790K runs VERY HOT and if you want to overclock it (and you SHOULD), then you want all the cooling you can get.

If you decide on buying an AIO water-cooler like Corsair-series, do NOT buy Corsair series! Only one AIO cooler does a worthy job that no other air-cooler can do (AFAIK) - Swiftech H220-X and H240-X. Corsair H100i and similar coolers are louder than air coolers with similar performance. Its $150 though, but its worth every penny. Looks super-fine too!


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandon138*
> 
> Hi, new here. I'm doing a first PC build and currently trying to choose the best CPU cooler. I was going to go with the Noctua NH-D15, but decided I probably don't need one quite that expensive(or bulky). Is the CM Hyper 212 still a good buy? As I see it's a few years old now. I will probably do some overclocking later on so I want to make sure I have no heat problems. Would you suggest the CM still or something else? My budget would probably go up to ~$60 for a CPU cooler.
> 
> If it helps, here's the rest of my list so far. It's prettymuch finalized.
> 
> *CPU:* Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor ($317.75 @ OutletPC)
> *CPU Cooler:* Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($28.75 @ OutletPC)
> *Motherboard:* Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($204.99 @ Amazon)
> *Memory:* G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($67.50 @ Newegg)
> *Storage:* Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($125.75 @ OutletPC)
> *Storage:* Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.97 @ OutletPC)
> *Video Card:* Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 4GB WINDFORCE Video Card ($359.99 @ Amazon)
> *Case:* Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($112.99 @ SuperBiiz)
> *Power Supply:* EVGA 850W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
> *Optical Drive:* Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
> *Operating System:* Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($88.98 @ OutletPC)
> *Wireless Network Adapter:* TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($38.75 @ OutletPC)
> *Case Fan:* Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan ($18.98 @ Amazon)


Yes the Hyper 212 Evo has been consistently ranked as one of the best coolers for the price for several years. I run it on a i7-5820k @ 4.4ghz with no problems, see my signature


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> CM Hyper 212 EVO has been out-performed by several cheap coolers, such as Cryorig H5, Cryorig H7, and my favorite Cryorig R1 Universal. All of them do better than CM Hyper 212 EVO, and I believe H5 and H7 are within the same price range. ALL of them are Universal and will fit regardless of how tall your memory sticks are. My favorite is Cryorig R1 Universal because it cools the best, but cost slightly higher than others. I would suggest the R1 Universal because that 4790K runs VERY HOT and if you want to overclock it (and you SHOULD), then you want all the cooling you can get.
> 
> If you decide on buying an AIO water-cooler like Corsair-series, do NOT buy Corsair series! Only one AIO cooler does a worthy job that no other air-cooler can do (AFAIK) - Swiftech H220-X and H240-X. Corsair H100i and similar coolers are louder than air coolers with similar performance. Its $150 though, but its worth every penny. Looks super-fine too!


All the Cryorig reviews are only a few weeks old, like literally, January 15th is the oldest review. I would never recommend someone purchase a hsf from a unknown company that just released their product a few weeks ago.

http://proclockers.com/reviews/cooling/cryorig-h7-cpu-cooler-review?page=0%2C0

EDIT: MONARCHX do you work for Cryorig? Seems strange someone would highly recommend a product that came out 9 days ago (january 12th was the release date) from a company that did not exist until July 2014
https://web.archive.org/web/20140401000000*/http://www.cryorig.com/


----------



## MonarchX

Yes, of course I work for Cryorig! Check out my previous posts - all I do is advertise for them day and night! Check out the awesome Cryorig cooler on my CPU - Cryorig Hyper 212 EVO! Do you even realize how paranoid and stupid you sound? So what if reviews are only a few weeks old? It doesn't change the fact that Cryorig makes coolers superior to CM Hyper 212 EVO or maybe you have proof that such isn't the case? Do you have a set rule that it should take 6 months before purchasing something new? Cryorig is NOT unknown, except maybe by you, and *their previous products have been well-reviewed by several credible and professional sites*. *It makes far more sense to listen to those sites and reviews than listening to your dogmatic opinion*. but I bet you think there's a big conspiracy and those sites were paid to give excellent ratings to very poor performing cooler and on top of them paid people like me to advertise it! I mean HOLY CRAP and I thought those people with tin foil on their heads were the paranoid ones!

_Part-time I also work for Swiftech, but they don't like that I am in cahoots with Cryorig_. ROFLMAO





















.

Brandon138 - go ahead with CM Hyper 212 EVO! I enjoy knowing people end up listening to Underclocker James and achieve higher temps and lower clocks - makes me feel better about my rig and my cooler







.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> Yes, of course I work for Cryorig! Check out my previous posts - all I do is advertise for them day and night! Check out the awesome Cryorig cooler on my CPU - Cryorig Hyper 212 EVO! Do you even realize how paranoid and stupid you sound? So what if reviews are only a few weeks old? It doesn't change the fact that Cryorig makes coolers superior to CM Hyper 212 EVO or maybe you have proof that such isn't the case? Do you have a set rule that it should take 6 months before purchasing something new? Cryorig is NOT unknown, except maybe by you, and *their previous products have been well-reviewed by several credible and professional sites*. *It makes far more sense to listen to those sites and reviews than listening to your dogmatic opinion*. but I bet you think there's a big conspiracy and those sites were paid to give excellent ratings to very poor performing cooler and on top of them paid people like me to advertise it! I mean HOLY CRAP and I thought those people with tin foil on their heads were the paranoid ones!
> 
> Part-time I also work for Swiftech, but they don't like that I am in cahoots with Cryorig. ROFLMAO
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Brandon138 - go ahead with CM Hyper 212 EVO! I enjoy knowing people end up listening to Underclocker James and achieve higher temps and lower clocks - makes me feel better about my rig and my cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Lol! What do you do at Swiftech?


----------



## CM-Patrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerjames*
> 
> wow Coolermaster
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's legit. Hey can you make motherboards? My gigabyte x99 board sucks and their customer service don't care at all despite tons of complaints everywhere.


Haha I don't think CM will be making motherboards any time soon but I appreciate the positive feedback









Let me know if you need anything, I'm on here all the time


----------



## JUNAD8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Urbane*
> 
> Please can anyone answer the question about the second fan please? Does it make a noticeable difference?


I have mine near an exhaust fan and I've noticed it directs the majority of the heat out the case, without the second fan some heat would stray away and add aditional heat to my case. The cpu itself barely benifits from the second fan but the rest of your case does.


----------



## JUNAD8

Anyone thing it would be worth it if I upgraded from a Hyper 212 evo to a Noctua NH-D15? I plan to OC.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JUNAD8*
> 
> Anyone thing it would be worth it if I upgraded from a Hyper 212 evo to a Noctua NH-D15? I plan to OC.


Yes major upgrade and heat dissipation. Remember the Hyper 212 EVO is great for the price and up to a certain type of build as the Noctua D15 is a total different beast in its own right. Totally worth it if you plan on overclocking.


----------



## manicd

UPDATE: Coolermaster sent me a replacement fan. The Jetflo 120...


----------



## MonarchX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Yes major upgrade and heat dissipation. Remember the Hyper 212 EVO is great for the price and up to a certain type of build as the Noctua D15 is a total different beast in its own right. Totally worth it if you plan on overclocking.


I think CM Hyper 212 EVO does best for stock cooling and very low voltage OC cooling. Its not that great for trying to overclock your CPU as far as possible (on air), even though I use Hyper 212 EVO to reach 4.8Ghz @ 1.31v on my 3770K. I get very high temps of 94C, which is higher than the cozy 85C max I like to have. And yes, I re-applied thermal paste and the heatsink numerous times to make everything is optimally set.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> I think CM Hyper 212 EVO does best for stock cooling and very low voltage OC cooling. Its not that great for trying to overclock your CPU as far as possible (on air), even though I use Hyper 212 EVO to reach 4.8Ghz @ 1.31v on my 3770K. I get very high temps of 94C, which is higher than the cozy 85C max I like to have. And yes, I re-applied thermal paste and the heatsink numerous times to make everything is optimally set.


In that case you're looking for a cooler beyond the $29.99 price rage.


----------



## MonarchX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> In that case you're looking for a cooler beyond the $29.99 price rage.


Yeah, but there are coolers only $10-15 more expensive that perform significantly better, like the Cryorig H7 and H5. R1 Universal is the expensive one with the best performance for a universal cooler that can be used with ANY RAM combination and module height, but the same applied to H5 and H7. I actually learned of Cryorig about a week ago and did my thorough research.

I hope Cooler Master can come up with a much better competitor that can do both - cool down CPU really for low-enough price and also be compatible with ANY RAM placement and module height. I have 4 tall RAM modules, so its important to me to have a cooler that can fit without forcing me to remove RAM modules. I think there are a few, but only Hyper 212 EVO from CM coolers can fit and I think some other one can too.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> Yeah, but there are coolers only $10-15 more expensive that perform significantly better, like the Cryorig H7 and H5. R1 Universal is the expensive one with the best performance for a universal cooler that can be used with ANY RAM combination and module height, but the same applied to H5 and H7. I actually learned of Cryorig about a week ago and did my thorough research.
> 
> I hope Cooler Master can come up with a much better competitor that can do both - cool down CPU really for low-enough price and also be compatible with ANY RAM placement and module height. I have 4 tall RAM modules, so its important to me to have a cooler that can fit without forcing me to remove RAM modules. I think there are a few, but only Hyper 212 EVO from CM coolers can fit and I think some other one can too.


Looked up the Cryorig coolers. Not bad, if what you say is true about their performance, they should make for very nice air coolers. I'm not even familiar if Cooler Master has a slightly more expensive option. I know theres the V8. As for the ram compatiblity, yeah, most people expect to mount the fan on the opposite side pull air through the cooler in order to fit taller ram sticks.


----------



## MonarchX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Looked up the Cryorig coolers. Not bad, if what you say is true about their performance, they should make for very nice air coolers. I'm not even familiar if Cooler Master has a slightly more expensive option. I know theres the V8. As for the ram compatiblity, yeah, most people expect to mount the fan on the opposite side pull air through the cooler in order to fit taller ram sticks.


I have honestly never tried one, but I do trust the sites that reviewed it and the people who did buy Cryorig fans, which were all happy with the purchase. I do know I'd trade my CM Hyper 212 EVO for one of their H5 or H7 units in a heart-beat. There are also other coolers (not from Cryorig) in the same price range as CM Hyper 212 EVO that have defeated it in performance (both cooling and noise), but not by as much as Cryorig's coolers. I think they make the most compatible, affordable, and good/decent looking fans (not best-looking) that can fit into any system = most value per buck. CM Hyper 212 used to be that too (had most value per buck), but not anymore. I mean it is still a great cooler, but *I wouldn't pay more than $15 or $20 tops for it*, not when there are better choices around. It also *doesn't do that good of a job when it comes to high voltage and overclocks*. 94C is still acceptable for CPU temp @ 1.31v after 2hrs of Prime95 Max Heat Torture Test, but it sure as hell reduces the longevity of CPU and its overclock. Now that Haswell Refresh is the dominant purchase, using CM Hyper 212 EVO makes even less sense because Haswell Refresh runs very hot and those wishing to overclock need to get something stronger/better if they need to increase voltage. The only reason I am upgrading is because I want to feel safe, having my CPU run under 85C no matter what situation. I just don't know whether to go with Cryorig R1 Universal OR with Swiftech H240-X, which is a beast with the highest price out of all AIO coolers, but it outperforms Corsair H-series by a considerable amount. I also think that considering Corsair's H-series products' noise levels and cooling performance, it is best to avoid it and settle for an air cooler that can deliver similar performance with less noise and for a lower price. I have NO idea why people keep buying Corsair H100i's (for looks maybe), and other HXi-series products - they generally suck, except for cases when a decent cooler needs to fit into very tight space, where a good air cooler wouldn't fit.

I also had ANOTHER idea: replace CM Hyper 212 EVO fan with a much better fan with similar noise level and add another high quality fan. Noctua fans may get the job done. I don't know if will keep my temps below 85C though...


----------



## JUNAD8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> I have honestly never tried one, but I do trust the sites that reviewed it and the people who did buy Cryorig fans, which were all happy with the purchase. I do know I'd trade my CM Hyper 212 EVO for one of their H5 or H7 units in a heart-beat. There are also other coolers (not from Cryorig) in the same price range as CM Hyper 212 EVO that have defeated it in performance (both cooling and noise), but not by as much as Cryorig's coolers. I think they make the most compatible, affordable, and good/decent looking fans (not best-looking) that can fit into any system = most value per buck. CM Hyper 212 used to be that too (had most value per buck), but not anymore. I mean it is still a great cooler, but *I wouldn't pay more than $15 or $20 tops for it*, not when there are better choices around. It also *doesn't do that good of a job when it comes to high voltage and overclocks*. 94C is still acceptable for CPU temp @ 1.31v after 2hrs of Prime95 Max Heat Torture Test, but it sure as hell reduces the longevity of CPU and its overclock. Now that Haswell Refresh is the dominant purchase, using CM Hyper 212 EVO makes even less sense because Haswell Refresh runs very hot and those wishing to overclock need to get something stronger/better if they need to increase voltage. The only reason I am upgrading is because I want to feel safe, having my CPU run under 85C no matter what situation. I just don't know whether to go with Cryorig R1 Universal OR with Swiftech H240-X, which is a beast with the highest price out of all AIO coolers, but it outperforms Corsair H-series by a considerable amount. I also think that considering Corsair's H-series products' noise levels and cooling performance, it is best to avoid it and settle for an air cooler that can deliver similar performance with less noise and for a lower price. I have NO idea why people keep buying Corsair H100i's (for looks maybe), and other HXi-series products - they generally suck, except for cases when a decent cooler needs to fit into very tight space, where a good air cooler wouldn't fit.
> 
> I also had ANOTHER idea: replace CM Hyper 212 EVO fan with a much better fan with similar noise level and add another high quality fan. Noctua fans may get the job done. I don't know if will keep my temps below 85C though...


Adding a pull fan to a 212evo will make a very small, if any difference at all to you temps. The main benefit is to steer more heat through your rear exhaust fan, thus lowering case temps which in turn can reduce the CPU temps by maybe 1*C. I've been looking into these cryorig fans and I'm very skeptical of their build quality and long term lasting. There are too many fake reviews of them online which rings alarm bells and the genuine reviews I've read say the fans and mounting tools aren't as good as the top brands like Noctua.


----------



## Lucky 23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MonarchX*
> 
> I have honestly never tried one, but I do trust the sites that reviewed it and the people who did buy Cryorig fans, which were all happy with the purchase. I do know I'd trade my CM Hyper 212 EVO for one of their H5 or H7 units in a heart-beat. There are also other coolers (not from Cryorig) in the same price range as CM Hyper 212 EVO that have defeated it in performance (both cooling and noise), but not by as much as Cryorig's coolers. I think they make the most compatible, affordable, and good/decent looking fans (not best-looking) that can fit into any system = most value per buck. CM Hyper 212 used to be that too (had most value per buck), but not anymore. I mean it is still a great cooler, but *I wouldn't pay more than $15 or $20 tops for it*, not when there are better choices around. It also *doesn't do that good of a job when it comes to high voltage and overclocks*. 94C is still acceptable for CPU temp @ 1.31v after 2hrs of Prime95 Max Heat Torture Test, but it sure as hell reduces the longevity of CPU and its overclock. Now that Haswell Refresh is the dominant purchase, using CM Hyper 212 EVO makes even less sense because Haswell Refresh runs very hot and those wishing to overclock need to get something stronger/better if they need to increase voltage. The only reason I am upgrading is because I want to feel safe, having my CPU run under 85C no matter what situation. I just don't know whether to go with Cryorig R1 Universal OR with Swiftech H240-X, which is a beast with the highest price out of all AIO coolers, but it outperforms Corsair H-series by a considerable amount. I also think that considering Corsair's H-series products' noise levels and cooling performance, it is best to avoid it and settle for an air cooler that can deliver similar performance with less noise and for a lower price. I have NO idea why people keep buying Corsair H100i's (for looks maybe), and other HXi-series products - they generally suck, except for cases when a decent cooler needs to fit into very tight space, where a good air cooler wouldn't fit.
> 
> I also had ANOTHER idea: replace CM Hyper 212 EVO fan with a much better fan with similar noise level and add another high quality fan. Noctua fans may get the job done. I don't know if will keep my temps below 85C though...


I agree with you, a Vcore of of 1.3v is going to be an absolute maximum for most 212 users. If your are planning on increasing overclock and using 1.35v + then I would say go with water cooling such as the H240-X that you are looking at. My setup only hits 67c after a 30 minute bench of Prime 95 and this include running the 8K Small FFT test (hottest test on P95). 2500k @ 4.6Ghz 1.336v

Water cooling will give you the piece of mind that your looking for.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manicd*
> 
> UPDATE: Coolermaster sent me a replacement fan. The Jetflo 120...


Of course they did. Mount it on your Hyper 212 and show us some images! I mounted two in push | pull on my back-up Hyper 212. I'm about to replace them with some Gentle Typhoon's though.


----------



## manicd




----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manicd*


----------



## frankenstein406

Just joined the club with a hyper 212 evo in push pull.

I put some electrical tape over the gap between fan and heatsink on the top which seemed to knock down idle temps 4-5 c at idle. I forgot to run intel burn test tho to see if it did the same for load temps, I will try again when I grab some new fans.


----------



## GodLikePlayer

hi guys


Spoiler: here's my 212


----------



## CM Felinni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankenstein406*
> 
> Just joined the club with a hyper 212 evo in push pull.
> 
> I put some electrical tape over the gap between fan and heatsink on the top which seemed to knock down idle temps 4-5 c at idle. I forgot to run intel burn test tho to see if it did the same for load temps, I will try again when I grab some new fans.


Can you provide pictures as well as a temperature benchmark using HWINFO64? What was your ambient temperature? I'm interested to see your results.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GodLikePlayer*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> 
> Spoiler: here's my 212


Welcome to the club!


----------



## frankenstein406

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CM Felinni*
> 
> Can you provide pictures as well as a temperature benchmark using HWINFO64? What was your ambient temperature? I'm interested to see your results.
> 
> Welcome to the club!




First run with intel burn test and tape

minimum max
42 67
39 64
41 64
38 64

Second run without tape
minimum max
42 71
39 69
41 67
37 68

I didn't have anything to test ambient inside the room so I will have to test it again. Right outside the room was a digital thermostat for the furnace, it hovered between 66f and 65f.


----------



## dachiesa

This is interesting! I may try it.


----------



## Vexzarium




----------



## marcelaioanei

Hello .I have a problem with this damn cooler and i dont know what else to do as i'm going bananas.

So i bought a new custom made pc some time ago, an intel platform with a gigabyte h97 hd3 motherboard and evo 212 cooler.

I was having bad freezing issues with very high cpu spikes so i immediately reinstalled the cooler but with no luck. Sometimes it booted fine but after a few minutes later the freezes began again. So i put the pc horizontally and took off the back plate and standoffs and only left the cooler. It was all good, no freezes, pc was working normal. The next day i installed the backplate and standofs but didnt installed the X bracket and again all was working good.

So the next thing i do was to install the X bracket and came to conclusion that the bracket was the problem. I installed the cooler in all positions and the problem still persists. A temporary solution was to gently lift with my hand the cooler like in the photo and the freezes goes away but the second i let go the freezes start again.



http://imgur.com/zpg4KWf


EVEN with the pc horizontally i need to push the cooler from the bottom.

So my final solution was to NOT screw the cooler all the way down. I only screw it enough for the cooler not to fall down, 5-7 turns. If i screw any more the freezes start again. now its working normal but i'm affraid it will fall someday.

I'm pretty pissed that this happens on a new pc, i dont know whats the problem with it. It's always the X braket no matter what i do and always the bottom side no matter what possition the cooler is.

Did anyone else had similar issues? i might sell it and buy some other cooler as i can't find a permanent solution


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcelaioanei*
> 
> Hello .I have a problem with this damn cooler and i dont know what else to do as i'm going bananas.
> 
> So i bought a new custom made pc some time ago, an intel platform with a gigabyte h97 hd3 motherboard and evo 212 cooler.
> 
> I was having bad freezing issues with very high cpu spikes so i immediately reinstalled the cooler but with no luck. Sometimes it booted fine but after a few minutes later the freezes began again. So i put the pc horizontally and took off the back plate and standoffs and only left the cooler. It was all good, no freezes, pc was working normal. The next day i installed the backplate and standofs but didnt installed the X bracket and again all was working good.
> 
> So the next thing i do was to install the X bracket and came to conclusion that the bracket was the problem. I installed the cooler in all positions and the problem still persists. A temporary solution was to gently lift with my hand the cooler like in the photo and the freezes goes away but the second i let go the freezes start again.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Oooh! Picture(s)!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/zpg4KWf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVEN with the pc horizontally i need to push the cooler from the bottom.
> 
> So my final solution was to NOT screw the cooler all the way down. I only screw it enough for the cooler not to fall down, 5-7 turns. If i screw any more the freezes start again. now its working normal but i'm affraid it will fall someday.
> 
> I'm pretty pissed that this happens on a new pc, i dont know whats the problem with it. It's always the X braket no matter what i do and always the bottom side no matter what possition the cooler is.
> 
> Did anyone else had similar issues? i might sell it and buy some other cooler as i can't find a permanent solution


Couple of things - I hope this build came with a guarantee/warranty? It kind of sounds like the stress of tightening the cooler down is putting enough pressure on the mobo to cause a separation in a semi-faulty trace (the pressure distortion). These are rare, as they usually just don't work at all, but I worked on one that had this problem every time you tightened down all of the mobo mounting screws. If you left two of them loose, it was fine.

This was remedied through the manufacturer, without issue, and it was a faulty trace.

As I said, this is pretty rare to my knowledge, and probably isn't it - but I thought I'd throw it out there.

Good luck!


----------



## marcelaioanei

So youre saying the problem is with the motherboard? it does have waranty but what if they install some other cooler with a different mounting system and it turns out it works fine ? Also, these freezes dont happen all the time, sometimes pc boots with them and sometimes its all ok and it starts freezing hours later or happens at a system reboot.

At one time with my pc placed horizontally i installed the cooler with the fan blowing down with the screws tighten all the way and ran fine for 2 days but when i put the pc on its feet the freezes started again.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcelaioanei*
> 
> So youre saying the problem is with the motherboard? it does have waranty but what if they install some other cooler with a different mounting system and it turns out it works fine ? Also, these freezes dont happen all the time, sometimes pc boots with them and sometimes its all ok and it starts freezing hours later or happens at a system reboot.
> 
> At one time with my pc placed horizontally i installed the cooler with the fan blowing down with the screws tighten all the way and ran fine for 2 days but when i put the pc on its feet the freezes started again.


Did you actually check the temperatures before it shut down or froze?


----------



## marcelaioanei

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> Did you actually check the temperatures before it shut down or froze?


Yes, temperature is normal. The pc dosent shut down automatically or frozes completely, these freezes consists of cpu lag spikes, if i open task manager i see cpu activity even on idle, oscillates from aprox 5% to 70 every second and whole system feels like playing a video game at 5 fps and its the same in bios so its not windows related.


----------



## mxthunder

I now own three of these coolers. One on my 2500K, another on my 3770K running at 5GHz with 1.36V and it does a great job keeping the temps down even with such a high OC.

The third one I own was destroyed by some CLU that accidentally came into contact with it.


----------



## greasemonky89

im at 1.45vcore @ 3.7ghz on my old phenom ii tri core and im staying cool at max 31c. have nothing to complain about . did follow the link on the first page for proper thermal past application since i have the 212+. its been great. all im wondering is if i should invest in a second fan for push pull.


----------



## maximsilentfoot

hi everyone. just installed the evo 212 last night on my 4790k...couldn't take how loud the stock cooler was. Installing it was a bit harder than I thought especially with the X bracket but managed to get it done with the help of the installation guide on thsi forum









was playing some BF4 and where the stock cooler was making a lot of noise the evo was extremely silent and barely audible!

I'm using OCCT to measure temps and this is what I see on idle. are those random spikes in temp normal?


----------



## widoo

My CM 212 EVO


----------



## Vexzarium

So from what I've gathered reading through this thread is that I'd not have much to gain by going push-pull on the Evo?

What about replacing the stock fan?



I'm looking at this fan: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709037

Matches my rig perfectly(see signature link).

Would I see any performance increase from doing this?


----------



## Yuniver

Should I add a second fan to my heatsink? Will I be able to tell a difference in temps?


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yuniver*
> 
> Should I add a second fan to my heatsink? Will I be able to tell a difference in temps?


Not really, most people report like 1-2 degrees C reduction at best.


----------



## frankenstein406

Would low speed yate loons in push pull be enough airflow for the 212?


----------



## Rand Peltzer

My rig was assembled about 2.5 years ago. Not much has changed and for the most part everything has been running smoothly. I have an EVO on a stock i5-3570k.

Recently the fan started making noise. It seems to be spinning fine but I'm looking at just changing out the fan. I picked up a enermax tb silence with pwm. Has anyone had any experience with these fans on this cooler or should I have bought something else?


----------



## atarione

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yuniver*
> 
> Should I add a second fan to my heatsink? Will I be able to tell a difference in temps?


I have 3x hyper 212's (2x +'s and a EVO) and I can also state a 2nd fan does basically very little to drop temps.. maybe 1 or 2C difference...


----------



## agsz

Recently installed my Hyper 212 EVO in my Rosewill Thor V2 case, was unsure if it would be better to have blow out the rear exhaust fan (140mm) or out of the top exhaust fan (230mm).


----------



## attackmech

Well hell, I didn't know you guys had a club..

I just posted this to: http://www.overclock.net/t/1547221/corsair-200r-h80i-gt#post_23695489


----------



## overclockerjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackmech*
> 
> Well hell, I didn't know you guys had a club..
> 
> I just posted this to: http://www.overclock.net/t/1547221/corsair-200r-h80i-gt#post_23695489


http://www.overclock.net/t/1547221/corsair-200r-h80i-gt#post_23703231
Quote:


> After using prime95, hands down 212 Evo blows the water cooling out of the water.


Most people laugh at me when I say 212 Evo is better than some water cooling rigs, glad to see someone actually agree, the 212 Evo is a great cooler for less than $30 (sometimes less than $20)


----------



## attackmech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *overclockerjames*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1547221/corsair-200r-h80i-gt#post_23703231
> Most people laugh at me when I say 212 Evo is better than some water cooling rigs, glad to see someone actually agree, the 212 Evo is a great cooler for less than $30 (sometimes less than $20)


For the money you cannot beat it. Everything I experience makes me a believer.


----------



## attackmech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atarione*
> 
> I have 3x hyper 212's (2x +'s and a EVO) and I can also state a 2nd fan does basically very little to drop temps.. maybe 1 or 2C difference...


I noticed 4C to 5C difference. The first fan I dropped it a little bit lower where the fan is actually blowing on the CPU, the second fan I make sure it's even in the back with the heatsink.


----------



## attackmech

I see I'm not the only one that went back to an Evo air cooler ..

http://www.maximumpc.com/corsair_adds_h100i_gtx_and_h80i_gt_liquid_coolers_hydro_series_line

"I pulled my Corsair water cooler out of my system. I did not get much more than 200MHz more o/c and the noise when running a game was intolerable. Back to my CM Hyper Evo air cooler, ultra quiet and good enough."


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackmech*
> 
> I noticed 4C to 5C difference. The first fan I dropped it a little bit lower where the fan is actually blowing on the CPU, the second fan I make sure it's even in the back with the heatsink.


Which fans are those? I've been debating getting 2 new fans for my heatsink, as well as 2 new 140mm fans for my case (rear exhaust that my heatsink blows out of, and bottom intake).


----------



## attackmech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Which fans are those? I've been debating getting 2 new fans for my heatsink, as well as 2 new 140mm fans for my case (rear exhaust that my heatsink blows out of, and bottom intake).


2 Corsair Air Series AF120 Performance Edition 2,350 rpm High Airflow 120mm, front and back of heatsink .

2 Corsair Air Series AF120 Performance Edition 2,350 rpm High Airflow 120mm, front and back of case.

3 Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 1,150 RPM 140mm, 2 on top and 1 on side of case..

Corsair Air Series AF120
http://www.corsair.com/es-es/air-series-sp120-high-performance-edition-high-static-pressure-120mm-fan-twin-pack

Corsair Air Series AF140
http://www.corsair.com/es-es/air-series-af140-quiet-edition-high-airflow-140mm-fan


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackmech*
> 
> 2 Corsair Air Series AF120 Performance Edition 2,350 rpm High Airflow 120mm, front and back of heatsink .
> 
> 2 Corsair Air Series AF120 Performance Edition 2,350 rpm High Airflow 120mm, front and back of case.
> 
> 3 Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 1,150 RPM 140mm, 2 on top and 1 on side of case..
> 
> Corsair Air Series AF120
> http://www.corsair.com/es-es/air-series-sp120-high-performance-edition-high-static-pressure-120mm-fan-twin-pack
> 
> Corsair Air Series AF140
> http://www.corsair.com/es-es/air-series-af140-quiet-edition-high-airflow-140mm-fan


edit: Would CoolerMaster Sickeflow's be an upgrade from the stock Hyper 212 EVO fan?


----------



## attackmech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> edit: Would CoolerMaster Sickeflow's be an upgrade from the stock Hyper 212 EVO fan?


CoolerMaster Sickeflow's
Air pressure (mmH2O) 2.94 mmH2O

212 EVO fan
Air Flow: 24.9 - 82.9 CFM +/- 10%

it looka like they have the same RMP speed


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackmech*
> 
> CoolerMaster Sickeflow's
> Air pressure (mmH2O) 2.94 mmH2O
> 
> 212 EVO fan
> Air Flow: 24.9 - 82.9 CFM +/- 10%
> 
> it looka like they have the same RMP speed


Thought so. If I did purchase fan(s), it would most likely be the Corsair fan that you linked then, seeing as they are a decent upgrade.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackmech*
> 
> CoolerMaster Sickeflow's
> Air pressure (mmH2O) 2.94 mmH2O
> 
> 212 EVO fan
> Air Flow: 24.9 - 82.9 CFM +/- 10%
> 
> it looka like they have the same RMP speed


The Corsair fans you linked are 3.1 mm/H2O on a heatsink, and 62.74 RPM. Is that much better than the stock Hyper212 fan?


----------



## attackmech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> The Corsair fans you linked are 3.1 mm/H2O on a heatsink, and 62.74 RPM. Is that much better than the stock Hyper212 fan?


2350 RPM









http://www.corsair.com/es-es/air-series-sp120-high-performance-edition-high-static-pressure-120mm-fan-twin-pack


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackmech*
> 
> 2350 RPM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.corsair.com/es-es/air-series-sp120-high-performance-edition-high-static-pressure-120mm-fan-twin-pack


Ah sorry, I meant 62.74 CFM. So even though the CFM is 20 less than the Hyper 212 Stock Fan, the 350 RPM makes up for it? I'm not quite sure on how to compare fans to one another yet, I figured the higher the CFM/RPM, the better.


----------



## attackmech

Really all cases are different when it comes to cubic air space. It's really hard to trusting exactly be over all testing on the cubic feet per minute with companies. I figured the tighter the space the more harder it had to work and usually i'm kind of a hands on guy and like to do my own testing. Normally more CFM means better results but, I believe the more rpms the less it would have to work in smaller cases and therefore could be more quieter, if that makes any sense.

I came across a helpful tip video below that gives you different scenarios and situations.










SP120 High Performance Edition

62.74 CFM

2350 RPM

35 dBA

Cooler Maste 120

69.69 CFM

2000 RPM

19 dBA

Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM

Unless you're going to overclock and run your fans on the max all the time then you would be best going with the highest CFM. I'm not ramping my rpm up all the way and I feel like it will last longer than the other fans and seems to be just as quiet or quieter, and also the temperature looks great now. It all comes down to R&D.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackmech*
> 
> Really all cases are different when it comes to cubic air space. It's really hard to trusting exactly be over all testing on the cubic feet per minute with companies. I figured the tighter the space the more harder it had to work and usually i'm kind of a hands on guy and like to do my own testing. Normally more CFM means better results but, I believe the more rpms the less it would have to work in smaller cases and therefore could be more quieter, if that makes any sense.
> 
> I came across a helpful tip video below that gives you different scenarios and situations.


Makes sense. I did some research, and for roughly $2 more per fan, The Cooler Master Jetflo performs a bit better, and apparently much quieter, according to some threads where people argue over the two


----------



## attackmech

Let me know how it works out for you.


----------



## attackmech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Makes sense. I did some research, and for roughly $2 more per fan, The Cooler Master Jetflo performs a bit better, and apparently much quieter, according to some threads where people argue over the two


After doing my research today I would go with the highest static pressure fan for the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus









SP120 High Performance Edition

Static Pressure 3.1 mm/H20

Cooler Master Jetflo performs

Static Pressure 2.72 mm/H20

Blade Master 120

3.90 mm H2O

http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/blade-master-120/

Hyper 212 Evo 120mm Fan

2.7mm H2O

http://www.cmstore-usa.com/hyper-212-evo-120mm-fan-oem-package/

I think I'm actually going to purchase the Blade Master 120 and try it on my Hyper 212 Evo.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *attackmech*
> 
> After doing my research today I would go with the highest static pressure fan for the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SP120 High Performance Edition
> 
> Static Pressure 3.1 mm/H20
> 
> Cooler Master Jetflo performs
> 
> Static Pressure 2.72 mm/H20
> 
> Blade Master 120
> 
> 3.90 mm H2O
> 
> http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/case-fan/blade-master-120/
> 
> Hyper 212 Evo 120mm Fan
> 
> 2.7mm H2O
> 
> http://www.cmstore-usa.com/hyper-212-evo-120mm-fan-oem-package/
> 
> I think I'm actually going to purchase the Blade Master 120 and try it on my Hyper 212 Evo.


I thought the 95 CFM vs. the 62.74 CFM made quite some difference. Yeah the blademaster's come on the Hyper 212 Evo+ I think, I was reading a thread on here with tons of data about every possible fan set up, but vertical positioning had worse numbers due to a tiny exhaust fan on the top, I think..


----------



## agsz

Will having my heatsink positioned vertically (blowing out the top exhaust) and running a push/pull, pull hot air from my GPU when I add the 2nd fan?


----------



## MrMD

Just slap noctua f12 pwm's on the 212.

Better cooling performance and and quieter than the stock fan,what i done when using it


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Just slap noctua f12 pwm's on the 212.
> 
> Better cooling performance and and quieter than the stock fan,what i done when using it


I already purchased the Jet Flo 120's, which seem pretty similar on paper when comparing specs. I purchased 2 Jet Flo 120's for the Hyper 212, and one Corsair AF 140 for the rear exhaust. I'd love to mount my spare 140mm case fan as an intake fan in the front of my case to be level with the heatsink, but I'd literally have to zip tie it


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> I already purchased the Jet Flo 120's, which seem pretty similar on paper when comparing specs. I purchased 2 Jet Flo 120's for the Hyper 212, and one Corsair AF 140 for the rear exhaust. I'd love to mount my spare 140mm case fan as an intake fan in the front of my case to be level with the heatsink, but I'd literally have to zip tie it


#

I have done that before,its worthwhile if you have a spare fan already


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> #
> 
> I have done that before,its worthwhile if you have a spare fan already


Got any pics of how you did it? I wish my optical drive bay came prepared for this.


----------



## MrMD

No sadly,and since then i have changed case and moved to Water

All you need to do though is thread the zip ties through the screwholes already there for securing ODD's. For a 120/240mm fan you require about 3 slots worth of room to mount one.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> No sadly,and since then i have changed case and moved to Water
> 
> All you need to do though is thread the zip ties through the screwholes already there for securing ODD's. For a 120/240mm fan you require about 3 slots worth of room to mount one.


I'll give it a shot, in the process of installing new fans and such now. Question: As I was taking out my CPU power cord from the motherboard, my hand hit my Hyper 212, and it literally rotated 20-30 degrees..the retention plate & back plate are not loose by any means, is this normal?


----------



## agsz

So far so good with the duel fan setup. I'm kind of hesitant to ziptie a fan for intake in the top-front of my case level with the heatsink. Currently I have 3 Intake Fans (Lower-Front, Side, and Bottom-Middle) + 2 Exhaust (Top and Rear). Can't adding 1 more Intake fan cause 'Stagnant Air' due to the Positive Pressure?


----------



## Mr Nightman

Getting some AF120 white led fans tommorrow, thought about using one on my 212. Now with only a 3 pin, will the fan always run at full?

my pc rocking the hyper, figure another white fan would be awesome. Also swapping that hdd fan with the other white af


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Nightman*
> 
> Getting some AF120 white led fans tommorrow, thought about using one on my 212. Now with only a 3 pin, will the fan always run at full?
> 
> my pc rocking the hyper, figure another white fan would be awesome. Also swapping that hdd fan with the other white af


Whoa! Lookin' like all the heat before you properly cooled your cpu with the 212 warped the heck outta your system!! lol!! (You have a fisheye lens, or you playing with photo editing?)


----------



## Xylonjay

Got my 212 EVO rocking two 120 mm fans in a push pull exhausting out the top of my case. Temps are 23°c idle and 52°c under load


----------



## Mr Nightman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Whoa! Lookin' like all the heat before you properly cooled your cpu with the 212 warped the heck outta your system!! lol!! (You have a fisheye lens, or you playing with photo editing?)


lol my bro took it with his gopro 4, those cameras capture light way better than my galaxy s4


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Nightman*
> 
> Getting some AF120 white led fans tommorrow, thought about using one on my 212. Now with only a 3 pin, will the fan always run at full?
> 
> my pc rocking the hyper, figure another white fan would be awesome. Also swapping that hdd fan with the other white af


Not unless you have fan controllers on your case and hook it up to that. Just go into your BIOS and set it to 'Turbo'. I just picked up 2 JetFlo 120's for my 212, and the AF140 for rear exhaust.


----------



## Mr Nightman

Some cool angle shots my bro took of the hyper with the new af120


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Nightman*
> 
> Some cool angle shots my bro took of the hyper with the new af120


That looks nice, wish I Would have gotten white LED's instead of red


----------



## 3boydad

all i can say is, if you're switching back to the 212 cause you think it's better than water. You're doing it wrong. The 212 is a fine air cooler for stock clocks but nothing can touch a custom loop, including GPU blocks.


----------



## frankenstein406

Just wondering if these temps seem unusual.

43c idle
72c max load with intel burn test on a i5 750 at 3.8ghz


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankenstein406*
> 
> Just wondering if these temps seem unusual.
> 
> 43c idle
> 72c max load with intel burn test on a i5 750 at 3.8ghz


43 °C idle definitely seems a bit high..


----------



## Dyaems

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankenstein406*
> 
> Just wondering if these temps seem unusual.
> 
> 43c idle
> 72c max load with intel burn test on a i5 750 at 3.8ghz


Where do you live? If you live in a tropical country like in Southeast Asia, which is summertime at the moment, the temps you are getting is pretty much normal.


----------



## bootleg4bandit

Can anyone figure out if this video is saying that this is a bad idea or something that might work? Cause why would he reapply it again?


----------



## dachiesa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankenstein406*
> 
> 
> 
> First run with intel burn test and tape
> 
> minimum max
> 42 67
> 39 64
> 41 64
> 38 64
> 
> Second run without tape
> minimum max
> 42 71
> 39 69
> 41 67
> 37 68
> 
> I didn't have anything to test ambient inside the room so I will have to test it again. Right outside the room was a digital thermostat for the furnace, it hovered between 66f and 65f.


I didn't realize how long ago this was posted.

I tried this today and noticed that my temps were about 4-5*C lower. I only have one fan blowing on my 212 evo. I was doing some other things inside and noticed that there is like a 1/4" gap at the top of the fan where it clips to the grill of the 212. Not to mention the sides. I taped the sites from the clips and my electric tape settled in perfectly. I'm feeling like without the tape a lot of the fan currents go outward, and this helps it force the air into the copper tubes/grilling.

Very glad I did this. I'm notching up my OC another .1GHz as I speak, as this puppy is letting me get 4.5GHz on my FX 6300 at around 50*C (trying to adjust things to see if I can keep it under that).


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dachiesa*
> 
> I didn't realize how long ago this was posted.
> 
> I tried this today and noticed that my temps were about 4-5*C lower. I only have one fan blowing on my 212 evo. I was doing some other things inside and noticed that there is like a 1/4" gap at the top of the fan where it clips to the grill of the 212. Not to mention the sides. I taped the sites from the clips and my electric tape settled in perfectly. I'm feeling like without the tape a lot of the fan currents go outward, and this helps it force the air into the copper tubes/grilling.
> 
> Very glad I did this. I'm notching up my OC another .1GHz as I speak, as this puppy is letting me get 4.5GHz on my FX 6300 at around 50*C (trying to adjust things to see if I can keep it under that).


The electrical tape helps that much? I recently made my Hyper 212 a Push/Pull setup with JetFlo 120's


----------



## dachiesa

With the stock fan that comes with the 212 at least. As I said, the stock fan has a sizeable gap at the top.


----------



## frankenstein406

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dachiesa*
> 
> I didn't realize how long ago this was posted.
> 
> I tried this today and noticed that my temps were about 4-5*C lower. I only have one fan blowing on my 212 evo. I was doing some other things inside and noticed that there is like a 1/4" gap at the top of the fan where it clips to the grill of the 212. Not to mention the sides. I taped the sites from the clips and my electric tape settled in perfectly. I'm feeling like without the tape a lot of the fan currents go outward, and this helps it force the air into the copper tubes/grilling.
> 
> Very glad I did this. I'm notching up my OC another .1GHz as I speak, as this puppy is letting me get 4.5GHz on my FX 6300 at around 50*C (trying to adjust things to see if I can keep it under that).


Glad it worked out for you!


----------



## DR4G00N

I guess I'll add my secondary rig while I'm here.
Nothing special but it works quite well (Full specs in sig).
Lapped i7-920 D0 @ 2.8GHz 1.15v sits around 61-62c on the hottest core with a Hyper 212+ @ 50% fan speed.


----------



## Mr Nightman

impressed with my hyper and my 2500k at 4.5ghz, temps after playing some gtav










gunna be a sad day when the 212 is retired, but that h100i at 50 bucks was just too temping, sorry lil buddy lol


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Nightman*
> 
> impressed with my hyper and my 2500k at 4.5ghz, temps after playing some gtav
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gunna be a sad day when the 212 is retired, but that h100i at 50 bucks was just too temping, sorry lil buddy lol


GTA V rapes my gpu :[ h100i @ $50..where?


----------



## Mr Nightman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> GTA V rapes my gpu :[ h100i @ $50..where?


bought used from another forum, had to at that price lol


----------



## craige

Thinking of buying 212X soon, but as am using full window case i would hate it showing ugly silver heatsink showing through the window.

Is there any shroud available that i can buy and put on top side OR i have to manually paint it black?

I heard that painting it reduces performance + how can i remove just the top plate to paint ?

Please guide me a little on how can i improve it aesthetically.....


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craige*
> 
> Thinking of buying 212X soon, but as am using full window case i would hate it showing ugly silver heatsink showing through the window.
> 
> Is there any shroud available that i can buy and put on top side OR i have to manually paint it black?
> 
> I heard that painting it reduces performance + how can i remove just the top plate to paint ?
> 
> Please guide me a little on how can i improve it aesthetically.....


If the aesthetics matter that much, ideally, you should get a more expensive cooler that matches the color you need. I have a 212X and you can't remove the top. Or you can just fashion a shroud yourself.

Just my $0.02.


----------



## craige

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shanenanigans*
> 
> I have a 212X and you can't remove the top. Or you can just fashion a shroud yourself.


Well a user here has seem to pop out the top and put vinyl:
http://www.overclock.net/t/632591/cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-evo-club/4430

Also, yes aesthetics matter to me a lot but then I cannot find any air cooler that is black in color OR aint ugly... if u have sum coolers on your mind that is black let me know.


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craige*
> 
> Well a user here has seem to pop out the top and put vinyl:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/632591/cooler-master-hyper-212-plus-evo-club/4430
> 
> Also, yes aesthetics matter to me a lot but then I cannot find any air cooler that is black in color OR aint ugly... if u have sum coolers on your mind that is black let me know.


Looks like he put a vinyl on it.

If I'm not mistaken, Phanteks does have black coolers for most, if not all its models.


----------



## agsz

Anyone else experience the Hyper 212 EVO rotating a bit when putting your fan(s) on it, after the motherboard is secure in the case? I screwed the retention plate in until it was going to take pressure to make the screws any tighter, perhaps not tight enough?


----------



## Shanenanigans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Anyone else experience the Hyper 212 EVO rotating a bit when putting your fan(s) on it, after the motherboard is secure in the case? I screwed the retention plate in until it was going to take pressure to make the screws any tighter, perhaps not tight enough?


Nah that's a problem with the cooler. It moves. Just not as stable as it's competitors ( which incidentally, are in higher price brackets, and are more premium )


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Anyone else experience the Hyper 212 EVO rotating a bit when putting your fan(s) on it, after the motherboard is secure in the case? I screwed the retention plate in until it was going to take pressure to make the screws any tighter, perhaps not tight enough?


Yes - it's the normal state of affairs with the cooler. I think you'd snap your MB before you kept the cooler from being able to rotate.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Yes - it's the normal state of affairs with the cooler. I think you'd snap your MB before you kept the cooler from being able to rotate.


Haha, I thought the same thing too. People who don't have the Hyper 212, say I did something wrong if it even moves the slightest. I was debating redoing the thermal paste after it rotated a bit, but it would just happen again putting the fans on


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Yes - it's the normal state of affairs with the cooler. I think you'd snap your MB before you kept the cooler from being able to rotate.
> 
> 
> 
> Haha, I thought the same thing too. People who don't have the Hyper 212, say I did something wrong if it even moves the slightest. I was debating redoing the thermal paste after it rotated a bit, but it would just happen again putting the fans on
Click to expand...

Yeah - re-doing the TIM would be a waste of time. I put mine together in June of '13 - It has rotated on more than one occasion during cleanings and such, but have not had a temperature issue as of yet - Running a 3570K with a mild overclock, and the fan raised above the top of the fins to avoid my Vengeance RAM. It should be just fine.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> Yeah - re-doing the TIM would be a waste of time. I put mine together in June of '13 - It has rotated on more than one occasion during cleanings and such, but have not had a temperature issue as of yet - Running a 3570K with a mild overclock, and the fan raised above the top of the fins to avoid my Vengeance RAM. It should be just fine.


Thank you for the advice! When I first installed it I was concerned that it rotated like that, figured I did something wrong. I recently got an electric duster, so I removed the JetFlo 120's from the Hyper 212 EVO and cleaned the radiator, which was pretty dusty on the intake fan side.


----------



## agsz

Are these Temps normal for an i7-4790k + Asus Z97-AR with XMP on?


----------



## zipper17

i use 212 evo right now with 1 fan attached

but is it necessary to install the second fan? it would be run cooler with 2 fan?how it works?

little last question, how does this evo fan push the air? Does it push the air inside to the heatsink? or it is push the air out from the hs ?? intake or exhaust?


----------



## edsai

A second fan will most likely give little to nothing improvement.
Although 2 fans at 1500 rpm might perform as good as 1 fan at 2000 rpm being quieter.

You should go fine placing the fan as intake or exhaust.
Most of us prefer intake but placing the fan as exhaust in some boards with the high profile ram is needed to clear the ram slots.

Look this link here about the 212 and the fan placements.


----------



## Lucky 23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Are these Temps normal for an i7-4790k + Asus Z97-AR with XMP on?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes the temps look fine for normal use. If you want to see your max temps then you will need to run Prime 95.

XMP is for your RAM and will not effect your temps.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 23*
> 
> [/spoiler]
> 
> Yes the temps look fine for normal use. If you want to see your max temps then you will need to run Prime 95.
> 
> XMP is for your RAM and will not effect your temps.


For my Mobo, XMP uses 'Sync All Cores', and they go up about 5° C.


----------



## Lucky 23

Huh, on my board they are separate settings. What is the RAM speed ?


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 23*
> 
> Huh, on my board they are separate settings. What is the RAM speed ?


1866MHz. This is what enabling XMP in my BIOS changes:


----------



## Lucky 23

Are using the motherboard software? Try making the changes in bios


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 23*
> 
> Are using the motherboard software? Try making the changes in bios


Yeah, that's in the BIOS. Asus Z97-AR.


----------



## Lucky 23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Yeah, that's in the BIOS. Asus Z97-AR.


Ok cool. Well they only reason the temps may increase with XMP is due to the higher RAM frequency, since it puts more stress on the IMC.

Overall the temps look good but run Prime 95 w/ HWmonitor or Core temp open to get an idea of the maximum CPU temps.

Also, another thing i noticed just now. Is your Vcore on Auto? Its displaying 1.76v in your screen shot.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 23*
> 
> Ok cool. Well they only reason the temps may increase with XMP is due to the higher RAM frequency, since it puts more stress on the IMC.
> 
> Overall the temps look good but run Prime 95 w/ HWmonitor or Core temp open to get an idea of the maximum CPU temps.
> 
> Also, another thing i noticed just now. Is your Vcore on Auto? Its displaying 1.76v in your screen shot.


Hmm, I believe so. I've never touched that. Is that off?


----------



## Lucky 23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Hmm, I believe so. I've never touched that. Is that off?


Yes you should always set your Vcore manually. Your temps are low but you can damage the chip at that voltage.

Usually you want to stay at around 1.3v +/- unless you have a really nice water cooling setup.

I would search "4790k Max voltage" on OCN. You will see what other members are using for a 24/7 OC


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 23*
> 
> Yes you should always set your Vcore manually. Your temps are low but you can damage the chip at that voltage.
> 
> Usually you want to stay at around 1.3v +/- unless you have a really nice water cooling setup.
> 
> I would search "4790k Max voltage" on OCN. You will see what other members are using for a 24/7 OC


I think VID is my voltage in that program, CPU-Z says 1.193 which is the value VID shows in CPU ID HW Monitor.


----------



## Lucky 23

HW Monitor has always displayed Vcore AFAIK. What Version do you have ?


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 23*
> 
> HW Monitor has always displayed Vcore AFAIK. What Version do you have ?


v1.27 ~ Should I double check in my BIOS to make sure my voltage isn't insanely high?


----------



## Lucky 23

It could be just a glitch but I would check your BIOS and setup your vcore manually instead of auto.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 23*
> 
> It could be just a glitch but I would check your BIOS and setup your vcore manually instead of auto.


I think it's just HW Monitor, here's my CPU-Z validation: http://valid.x86.fr/8scfm0


----------



## Dchilo

Hi, I just noticed this club!. I´ve been using the Hyper 212 EVO for 2 months, way better than my CM V8 (Old version).

Switching fans will be a good investment? I´m already running a Push/pull config (Stock 212 fan as pull and Stock CM V8 fan as push).
I´m wanting to change both for a pair of Jetflos 120mm or Corsair SP120 PE.
It´s there anybody that already changed the stock fans and could tell me if the temps went lower?

Edit: My max temps are 71c, 30c ambient. Running a i5 2500K @ 4.0 GHz. 1.26 Vcore

Thanks in advance.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dchilo*
> 
> Hi, I just noticed this club!. I´ve been using the Hyper 212 EVO for 2 months, way better than my CM V8 (Old version).
> 
> Switching fans will be a good investment? I´m already running a Push/pull config (Stock 212 fan as pull and Stock CM V8 fan as push).
> I´m wanting to change both for a pair of Jetflos 120mm or Corsair SP120 PE.
> It´s there anybody that already changed the stock fans and could tell me if the temps went lower?
> 
> Edit: My max temps are 71c, 30c ambient. Running a i5 2500K @ 4.0 GHz. 1.26 Vcore
> 
> Thanks in advance.


The Hyper 212 EVO is better than the CM V8? I figured the CM V8 would be much better. I got 2 Jetflo 120mm's & Corsair AF140 for my case's rear exhaust to handle the air flow. It's better than just one single stock fan, but I don't know if you'll see a huge difference since you already have a Push/Pull setup.


----------



## Dchilo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> The Hyper 212 EVO is better than the CM V8? I figured the CM V8 would be much better. I got 2 Jetflo 120mm's & Corsair AF140 for my case's rear exhaust to handle the air flow. It's better than just one single stock fan, but I don't know if you'll see a huge difference since you already have a Push/Pull setup.


Well, my V8 had bend heatpipes and irregular surface, cause bad shipping. A functional V8 would perform slighty better than the stock 212 EVO. That's why I said the new heatsink is better than MY former V8 hehe.

BTW, what are your current max temps (using that config) and the average temp room?, I want to get an approximation (delta) to see if it's good or not to change the fans.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dchilo*
> 
> Well, my V8 had bend heatpipes and irregular surface, cause bad shipping. A functional V8 would perform slighty better than the stock 212 EVO. That's why I said the new heatsink is better than MY former V8 hehe.
> 
> BTW, what are your current max temps (using that config) and the average temp room?, I want to get an approximation (delta) to see if it's good or not to change the fans.


I've only used OCCT before and hit 68-70°C. I'd say @ 24°C in my room. I need to get a better program for stress testing. I only play CS:GO, and hit 40°C in-game, with XMP enabled. (XMP raised my temps by 4-5°C due to CPU Core Ratio => 'Sync All Cores')


----------



## juanitox

Hello.

I have a question about the installation of the 212 EVO. I was expecting better temperatures from my AMD A8 6600K (@4.1GHz) using this cooler. I'm getting like around 40°C with ligh workloads, like 37°C when idle, around 50°C - 52°C with high workloads.

When I installed it I didn't know what to do with the middle screw, the one holding the cross bracket, should I thighten it or losen it? Because I left it like it was. Also I tightened the other 4 screws in the X direction that was pointed in the guide, but they didn't actually bottom out, the cooler is steady and on its place, it won't move. Didn't go further because I was afraid my motherboard would break from the pressure.

I'm using CM ThermalFusion 400 as TIM, I was suggested to use Shin Etsu G751 to get better temps.

Any considerations I should have for reinstalling the cooler? Are these temps right?

Thanks for your help


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juanitox*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I have a question about the installation of the 212 EVO. I was expecting better temperatures from my AMD A8 6600K (@4.1GHz) using this cooler. I'm getting like around 40°C with ligh workloads, like 37°C when idle, around 50°C - 52°C with high workloads.
> 
> When I installed it I didn't know what to do with the middle screw, the one holding the cross bracket, should I thighten it or losen it? Because I left it like it was. Also I tightened the other 4 screws in the X direction that was pointed in the guide, but they didn't actually bottom out, the cooler is steady and on its place, it won't move. Didn't go further because I was afraid my motherboard would break from the pressure.
> 
> I'm using CM ThermalFusion 400 as TIM, I was suggested to use Shin Etsu G751 to get better temps.
> 
> Any considerations I should have for reinstalling the cooler? Are these temps right?
> 
> Thanks for your help


One question - Are you overclocking via BIOS settings, or using a software app? (easytune, or the like)


----------



## juanitox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougb62*
> 
> One question - Are you overclocking via BIOS settings, or using a software app? (easytune, or the like)


Nope, I actually updated the BIOS of my ASUS A88X-PLUS because I will install an athlon 860K soon and I loaded the default optimized settings for the BIOS. Everything is on auto, also I'm not overclocking with software either. But something I noticed is that my VCore stays around 1.408V - 1.440V most of the times.


----------



## manicd

That vcore sounds high which is probably why you have high temps. You can probably change your LLC to a different method that will automatically adjust vcore under different loads. But I'm unfamiliar with your board and cpu.


----------



## juanitox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manicd*
> 
> That vcore sounds high which is probably why you have high temps. You can probably change your LLC to a different method that will automatically adjust vcore under different loads. But I'm unfamiliar with your board and cpu.


Thanks! Yeah I noticed the CPB is active in the motherboard, so the CPU was in turbo mode all the time >.< Well I left it one menwahile because the temps are not going higher than 50 - 52°C when it is at full load. Today I will get another CPU, an Athlon 860K, so I will disable CPB and try to overclock.


----------



## stephen0205

dont suppose anyone has the amd fm2 bracket, or the pins rather, my missus seems to have lost my ones, went to put the cooler back on yesterday and only had 3


----------



## manicd

Contact Coolermaster and say your kit was missing them. If they have it in stock they usually will send out the hardware without question as it's cheap to do so.


----------



## stephen0205

Will give it ago altho I thought they would say send it back to the retailer


----------



## xLPGx

So after getting for cheap and using the Hyper 212 EVO for a while, replacing my Seidon 120V hoping for same performance but get rid the water, I'm slightly disappointed. Using an FX-8320.
When I first installed it I tried running my 4.4 clock, the temperatures skyrocketed even with the fan at 100% so I had to clock it back to 4GHz. But even then the 212 wouldn't deliver acceptable temperatures. I replaced the fan with the Seidon 120V fan and the temperatures were in control, at 4.0 at least, anything higher and the temps would be way too high.

I reinstalled it once, but no differense. Yesterday I reinstalled my Seidon, and 4.4 was no problem again. Am I expecting too much out of the 212 or did I probably mess up my installation, twice?


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xLPGx*
> 
> So after getting for cheap and using the Hyper 212 EVO for a while, replacing my Seidon 120V hoping for same performance but get rid the water, I'm slightly disappointed. Using an FX-8320.
> When I first installed it I tried running my 4.4 clock, the temperatures skyrocketed even with the fan at 100% so I had to clock it back to 4GHz. But even then the 212 wouldn't deliver acceptable temperatures. I replaced the fan with the Seidon 120V fan and the temperatures were in control, at 4.0 at least, anything higher and the temps would be way too high.
> 
> I reinstalled it once, but no differense. Yesterday I reinstalled my Seidon, and 4.4 was no problem again. Am I expecting too much out of the 212 or did I probably mess up my installation, twice?


I think you might be expecting a little much from the Cm212, given the FX's series usual high temps. How much voltage are you feeding it btw?


----------



## xLPGx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> I think you might be expecting a little much from the Cm212, given the FX's series usual high temps. How much voltage are you feeding it btw?


For 4GHz 1.3, for 4.4 1.38.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xLPGx*
> 
> For 4GHz 1.3, for 4.4 1.38.


Hmm, thats odd. However doing a little more research (google >_>) it seems other people with 8core FX are also running into 60's C territory with mild overclocks beyond 4.2Ghz, using the CM212. I think you might want to stick with watercooling then.


----------



## juanitox

Hey guys. A question, how tightened should the CM 212 EVO be? Or how many turns should I use for the screws? I got one working with an AMD Athlon 860K. At stock my temps are 39°C idle and 50°C load. I overclocked up to 4.2GHz and I see idle temps of low 40s and full load with prime95 around 56°C. I still think my temps are kinda high with the Vcore of 1.368.

I tightened enough for it to be steady but not too much because I was worried the motherboard would break or something. Thanks for your help


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juanitox*
> 
> Hey guys. A question, how tightened should the CM 212 EVO be? Or how many turns should I use for the screws? I got one working with an AMD Athlon 860K. At stock my temps are 39°C idle and 50°C load. I overclocked up to 4.2GHz and I see idle temps of low 40s and full load with prime95 around 56°C. I still think my temps are kinda high with the Vcore of 1.368.
> 
> I tightened enough for it to be steady but not too much because I was worried the motherboard would break or something. Thanks for your help


In regards to temps, thats actually pretty good, thats what I used to get on my old phenom II 955 BE at 3.6Ghz.
and tight enough that you don't strip the screws.


----------



## dpad007

Was up people,glad to be in the club. Heres my 212 :


----------



## dougb62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpad007*
> 
> Was up people,glad to be in the club. Heres my 212 :


I must say, that's interesting!







I take it you did that yourself?


----------



## dpad007

Yes indeed. Kinda got tired of seeing plain aluminium .


----------



## darklimits

will the 212 evo work with 5820k just for testing purposing while i wait for watercooling parts. I did notice the 212 evo doesn't cover the entire cpu.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

@darklimits - It'll work just fine and is more than capable of cooling 5820K in stock. Of course when it gets to overclocking, watercooling rules.


----------



## ClockHaas

Hi I use the 212 EVO too, only it's for the northbridge of my maximus formula.
Does that count too?? To be in the club.


----------



## Simmons572

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ClockHaas*
> 
> Hi I use the 212 EVO too, only it's for the northbridge of my maximus formula.
> Does that count too?? To be in the club.


Post some pictures, I am sure it won't be an issue


----------



## ClockHaas

Well...


----------



## Simmons572

@ClockHaas Hell yes, that is really cool!


----------



## Excelsis

Hey guys! New around these parts but I've been using a 212 Plus for a few years now.
When I bought it, I noticed the Blade Master fan it came with had a weird ticking sound coming from it, so I bought a Gelid Silent 12 to replace it and all was fine and dandy.
Sadly I just woke up to a CPU fan error and sure enough, the thing's dead. So back with the Blade Master with the annoying noise for the time being.

Since it's been quite a few years, I was wondering what kinds of fans are recommended as replacement for the 212 Plus these days? Looking for something that's quiet/silent more so than raw performance, possibly buying 2 for push-pull. Or is getting a couple Blade Masters still the way to go, as the topic opening post says?


----------



## DR4G00N

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excelsis*
> 
> Hey guys! New around these parts but I've been using a 212 Plus for a few years now.
> When I bought it, I noticed the Blade Master fan it came with had a weird ticking sound coming from it, so I bought a Gelid Silent 12 to replace it and all was fine and dandy.
> Sadly I just woke up to a CPU fan error and sure enough, the thing's dead. So back with the Blade Master with the annoying noise for the time being.
> 
> Since it's been quite a few years, I was wondering what kinds of fans are recommended as replacement for the 212 Plus these days? Looking for something that's quiet/silent more so than raw performance, possibly buying 2 for push-pull.


A pair of Yate Loon D12SL-12's would do you good. Best budget fans in existence imo, they're like $5 each. (They don't have PWM though).


----------



## ClockHaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excelsis*
> 
> Hey guys! New around these parts but I've been using a 212 Plus for a few years now.
> When I bought it, I noticed the Blade Master fan it came with had a weird ticking sound coming from it, so I bought a Gelid Silent 12 to replace it and all was fine and dandy.
> Sadly I just woke up to a CPU fan error and sure enough, the thing's dead. So back with the Blade Master with the annoying noise for the time being.
> 
> Since it's been quite a few years, I was wondering what kinds of fans are recommended as replacement for the 212 Plus these days? Looking for something that's quiet/silent more so than raw performance, possibly buying 2 for push-pull. Or is getting a couple Blade Masters still the way to go, as the topic opening post says?


Well, the Original fan was not good enough for my Q6600 a long time ago... So I raplaced it with this one:



It's a bit scary fan with it's 3 Amps, but dit a good yob, and it's PWM controlled so it's only loud when it needs to...
Only for the 12 V don't us the onboard connector.


----------



## Excelsis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DR4G00N*
> 
> A pair of Yate Loon D12SL-12's would do you good. Best budget fans in existence imo, they're like $5 each. (They don't have PWM though).


These seem nice but I wouldn't mind paying more for PWM (motherboard doesn't seem to control 3pin fans properly) and better quality. I know it doesn't really make sense spending so much money on Hyper 212 fans, but I feel I've gotten way more than my money's worth at this point and I wouldn't mind spending 15-25 bucks on good quality fans.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

There's an epic thread with fans comparison right here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-complete-and-comprehensive-array-of-tests-and-benchmarks

Just pick the one you like the best.


----------



## Excelsis

That is indeed an epic thread! Guess I'll be busy for a few hours. Thanks.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Excelsis*
> 
> That is indeed an epic thread! Guess I'll be busy for a few hours. Thanks.


I picked up two CoolerMaster JetFlo 120's for it, since they were on sale for $10 each, they're quiet and are pretty damn good. I also grabbed a Corsair AF140 for my top-rear Radiator Exhaust, so it could handle the airflow from the Hyper212.


----------



## edsai

Hi there,

First I want to sorry for my English, it's not my first language.

I just have a few questions about the 212 Plus and the tim application.
My rig listed in my sig.

I just reinstalled and repaste the 212 after 3 years of use.
Well, I haven't installed the 212 before, someone did it for me.
So this was my first 212 installation.

*1)* Pictures about the paste (CM stock tim) before cleaning, after 3 years of use.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Is that paste still fine for long years of use or is better to repaste more often?
I think the paste still fine, not dried and I cleaned it quite easely.

*2)* Picture about the my tim application after cpu cleaning:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Is that application amount fine or too much?
If not that good, should I worry about it and reapply it?

*3)* Well, that is the results before and after:

Intel XTU - 5 min stress test
Amb Temp: ~25C

Before: 2 push-pull fans - Cores #0, #1, #2, #3, Package: 48C, 52C, 50C, 50C, 52C
Now: only 1 fan (back/pull) - Cores #0, #1, #2, #3, Package: 50C, 53C, 52C, 52C, 53C

I'm not sure how good I did the 212 installation and the tim application but judging about the results, I think it's fine.









Thanks for any input.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

That's too much TIM. You can leave it as is though, just more TIM to clean the next time you re-apply it.


----------



## edsai

Thanks for your advice.


----------



## xnuw

Guys question how many months or years till it's time to replace the tim on our hyper 212? assuming its being use at least 4 hrs daily.


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xnuw*
> 
> Guys question how many months or years till it's time to replace the tim on our hyper 212? assuming its being use at least 4 hrs daily.


Every 2 years I'd say.


----------



## Quantum Reality

The middle screw that holds the X screw set should just be firmly fixed in the cavity of the 212 EVO so it doesn't move. I personally tighten the motherboard screws in a pattern similar to putting the nuts on a car tire to keep the pressure even, and do so until I meet resistance, then give a quarter turn more and leave them at that.


----------



## manicd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quantum Reality*
> 
> The middle screw that holds the X screw set should just be firmly fixed in the cavity of the 212 EVO so it doesn't move. I personally tighten the motherboard screws in a pattern similar to putting the nuts on a car tire to keep the pressure even, and do so until I meet resistance, then give a quarter turn more and leave them at that.


Me too and since the instructions are crap I just torqued every screw to 95 ft-lbs. My motherboard is as curved as a bowl. Thanks Cooler Master, this looks great!


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manicd*
> 
> Me too and since the instructions are crap I just torqued every screw to 95 ft-lbs. My motherboard is as curved as a bowl. Thanks Cooler Master, this looks great!


I completely agree, and not one person I know has disagreed with how crap their instructions are, They're extremely vague, I just watched a few YouTube videos + the Guide on here.


----------



## maximsilentfoot

Hi everyone!

Was wondering if I can get some input on my 4970k temps with a Hyper Evo 212 installed on it. After having to remove it recently (I was having trouble with the latch for my gpu) I applied some gelid when putting it back on (previously I was using the stuff that came with the evo).

Here are temps in OCCT on idle:



Here are temps in OCCT after running it for 5 mins:



Temps seem high and after 5 mins OCCT actually says it stopped itself because core 2 went over the limit (was at 89).

Should I be worried? When gaming (dragon age inquisition) CPU temps seem to hover around 65-80 depending on usage (which never seems to exceed 40%).

Note that I do live in a hot climate (Thailand) and the aircon isn't always on. The temps above are with the aircon off. My case is in the sig with no extra fans other than the on intake and one outtake.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> Was wondering if I can get some input on my 4970k temps with a Hyper Evo 212 installed on it. After having to remove it recently (I was having trouble with the latch for my gpu) I applied some gelid when putting it back on (previously I was using the stuff that came with the evo).
> 
> Here are temps in OCCT on idle:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are temps in OCCT after running it for 5 mins:
> 
> 
> 
> Temps seem high and after 5 mins OCCT actually says it stopped itself because core 2 went over the limit (was at 89).
> 
> Should I be worried? When gaming (dragon age inquisition) CPU temps seem to hover around 65-80 depending on usage (which never seems to exceed 40%).
> 
> Note that I do live in a hot climate (Thailand) and the aircon isn't always on. The temps above are with the aircon off. My case is in the sig with no extra fans other than the on intake and one outtake.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I think they're alright honestly. i7-4790k's do run a bit hot I think. Have you dusted your case / Hyper212 Radiator/Fan recently? The radiator on mine gets pretty dusty, perhaps it's because I'm running a Push/Pull with two JetFlo 120mm's, but it's really hard to clean it good without removing it I think. Taking the fans off alone requires enough force to cause the heatsink to rotate while it's still attached to your motherboard, that's why I plan on removing it soon to clean & redo the Thermal Paste.


----------



## maximsilentfoot

thanks for the input! yes I recently cleaned out the dust (the case comes with filters so there isn't much) and I recently removed the 212 to reapply the thermal paste.

I've been reading around and it seems like the temps I posted aren't out of the ordinary for the 4790k. The Evo 212 also isn't the coolest but it does run quiet despite being on load (I switched to it because the stock fan was unbearably loud!).

If I understand correctly as long as its not 90(?) then the cpu shouldn't throttle. hope I understand that correctly!


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> thanks for the input! yes I recently cleaned out the dust (the case comes with filters so there isn't much) and I recently removed the 212 to reapply the thermal paste.
> 
> I've been reading around and it seems like the temps I posted aren't out of the ordinary for the 4790k. The Evo 212 also isn't the coolest but it does run quiet despite being on load (I switched to it because the stock fan was unbearably loud!).
> 
> If I understand correctly as long as its not 90(?) then the cpu shouldn't throttle. hope I understand that correctly!


I feel like a heatsink is almost necessary for the i7-4790k, because it runs hot normally and the stock fan just doesn't cut it. I checked my OCCT results when I had first gotten the i7-4790k + Hyper 212, and I hit 70° C max, but I also noticed my VID is @ 1.193v, while yours is at 1.25-1.28v. Did you manually bump up the voltage?

Also noticed that your at stock speeds, and your core speeds fluctuate a lot. Do you have your Power Plan Settings setup in Windows? Also, do you have CPU Core Ratio set to "Sync All Cores"? If you play games like CS:GO for example, having your CPU Core's synced, helps stabilize your FPS.


----------



## maximsilentfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> I feel like a heatsink is almost necessary for the i7-4790k, because it runs hot normally and the stock fan just doesn't cut it. I checked my OCCT results when I had first gotten the i7-4790k + Hyper 212, and I hit 70° C max, but I also noticed my VID is @ 1.193v, while yours is at 1.25-1.28v. Did you manually bump up the voltage?
> 
> Also noticed that your at stock speeds, and your core speeds fluctuate a lot. Do you have your Power Plan Settings setup in Windows? Also, do you have CPU Core Ratio set to "Sync All Cores"? If you play games like CS:GO for example, having your CPU Core's synced, helps stabilize your FPS.


I'm at work now but will check all that as soon as I get home. I've never touched the any voltage settings though, should I manually lower it to match yours?

Also, what do the power plan settings have to be and how do i set the CPU core ratio? first time I'm hearing of these sorry


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> I'm at work now but will check all that as soon as I get home. I've never touched the any voltage settings though, should I manually lower it to match yours?
> 
> Also, what do the power plan settings have to be and how do i set the CPU core ratio? first time I'm hearing of these sorry


Did you use one of those Preset BIOS Profiles? In Control Panel, you can change it to High Performance, and then make sure the Process Power Management looks like mine. It's not necessary of course, depends on what games you play.


----------



## maximsilentfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Did you use one of those Preset BIOS Profiles? In Control Panel, you can change it to High Performance, and then make sure the Process Power Management looks like mine. It's not necessary of course, depends on what games you play.


I've never actually changed/selected any settings in the bios relating to the CPU. Only thing I recall doing is turning on XMS, making sure AHCI is there, setting boot priority and turning off stuff I don't use (like onboard sound).

I'll have a look at those power settings based on yours, thanks! I play a little CS GO but not seriously, if it helps in some games and there isn't any harm I might as well make sure it matches yours


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> I've never actually changed/selected any settings in the bios relating to the CPU. Only thing I recall doing is turning on XMS, making sure AHCI is there, setting boot priority and turning off stuff I don't use (like onboard sound).
> 
> I'll have a look at those power settings based on yours, thanks! I play a little CS GO but not seriously, if it helps in some games and there isn't any harm I might as well make sure it matches yours


Quote:


> Only thing I recall doing is turning on XMS


Do you mean XMP?

I checked out your specs from your forum signature, and I looked up your motherboard. The image I'm posting, has Turbo and other stuff disabled, just posting it to show you the settings you'd need to change.
In the OC page, change
Simple/Advanced Mode => Advanced
CPU Ratio Mode => Fixed Mode
CPU Ratio => 44 (Stock Turbo Speed for i7-4790k)


----------



## maximsilentfoot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Do you mean XMP?
> 
> I checked out your specs from your forum signature, and I looked up your motherboard. The image I'm posting, has Turbo and other stuff disabled, just posting it to show you the settings you'd need to change.
> In the OC page, change
> Simple/Advanced Mode => Advanced
> CPU Ratio Mode => Fixed Mode
> CPU Ratio => 44 (Stock Turbo Speed for i7-4790k)


sorry about that, you are right i meant XMP









As for the bios settings, I went in but even after going to advanced mode, it does not let me adjust the cpu ratio mode nor the cpu ratio (both say auto). I've changed the power settings in windows to match yours tho, it was on balanced before.

edit - forgot the photo


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maximsilentfoot*
> 
> sorry about that, you are right i meant XMP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the bios settings, I went in but even after going to advanced mode, it does not let me adjust the cpu ratio mode nor the cpu ratio (both say auto). I've changed the power settings in windows to match yours tho, it was on balanced before.
> 
> edit - forgot the photo


Hmm, really not sure. I have an Asus Z97-AR, and there's a setting called CPU Core Ratio which I set to 'Sync All Cores'. On MSI/Gigabyte Motherboard's, I couldn't figure out how to do it.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Hiya guys, just installed my first 212 Evo so I guess I'm an officially a member











This is my nephews PC, just waiting on a few more parts which are sadly in holiday shipping limbo.

Still not sure what fans (might want white LED fans to accent his case lighting) to put on her yet, does this little cooler stand to gain from higher CFM fans than the 80~ rating of the Xtraflos at 2k rpm or will the temp drops beyond that be negligible? I suspect static pressure isn't much of a benefit the way the fins are. Will be doing push pull, noise is not a concern (within reason, not buying deltas for a $29 cooler







)


----------



## dachiesa

My 212 Evo benefitted very little from Push/Pull. It seems that the air pushing in benefits from a wider blow out.

I found that changing the rear top fan (I had 2 x 120mm in my case) to the second PWM fan I ordered for my 212 from Cooler Master seemed to benefit more. Now even at load my cpu fan (pwm) and the top rear (also pwm) max out at about 1400rpm and don't get too loud.

I'm running it on a i5 4690K and have them running 1.25% per *C.

Not sure about the other fans. I wouldn't imagine there would be much benefit from the fans, though others have said that the cooler master fan can be improved on with noctua or something, by maybe 7*C. Not worth it for me, personally.


----------



## Quantum Reality

One rave I have to give about the EVO design, at any rate, is that the fan clips are made so the fan can be moved up to clear higher heatsinks.









I have a set of G.Skill DDR3-2133 sticks in my computer now, and unlike my Kingston DDR3-1600 set which were "standard" height, they stuck up enough that they would occupy the same space as the fan; at first, I thought "oh no, I'll need to get a new HSF!" but then I noitced the fan was movable


----------



## ClockHaas

I can tell you that any fan with more then 1600 RPM is overkill.

I know this because I have tried this cooler in every possible setup's, if it cant keep it cool, it's not the fan...

Mine is still doing a good job on my Northbridge


----------



## agsz

How often do guys clean your Hyper 212 EVO? I have a DataVAC, but to clean it properly I'd need to take the motherboard out at least, and even remove the fans I feel like. Usually removing the fans on a Hyper 212 EVO, results in the heatsink rotating slightly, not sure why, so I feel like in that case it would be best just to re-do the thermal paste as well I assume.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> How often do guys clean your Hyper 212 EVO? I have a DataVAC, but to clean it properly I'd need to take the motherboard out at least, and even remove the fans I feel like. Usually removing the fans on a Hyper 212 EVO, results in the heatsink rotating slightly, not sure why, so I feel like in that case it would be best just to re-do the thermal paste as well I assume.


Depends on the environment and the case, if you have a newer case with filtered air intakes then the heatsink would go months without needing a cleaning. Then of course keeping your computer room as dust free as possible.

Typically though for my big air coolers I use my air compressor set to either 40 or 90 PSI to blow out the case and the rad with the fans still attached (holding fan blades still) every few weeks, then take apart for new thermal compound and complete cleaning every 6 months or so. If you have lots of dust in the radiator fins it would be best to just remove it entirely for a full cleaning.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> Depends on the environment and the case, if you have a newer case with filtered air intakes then the heatsink would go months without needing a cleaning. Then of course keeping your computer room as dust free as possible.
> 
> Typically though for my big air coolers I use my air compressor set to either 40 or 90 PSI to blow out the case and the rad with the fans still attached (holding fan blades still) every few weeks, then take apart for new thermal compound and complete cleaning every 6 months or so. If you have lots of dust in the radiator fins it would be best to just remove it entirely for a full cleaning.


I usually do the same every week but haven't been gaming lately, so I don't turn my PC on too often. I usually hold the fans on my Hyper 212 EVO (JetFlo 120s) still, and blow through the radiator first, then clean out the case. Is it necessary or even good, to change thermal paste that often? Also, do you have any preferences for what paste to use? I wound up using the stock CoolerMaster thermal paste, since the Tuniq TX-4 I bought didn't spread properly at all, I picked it up hours later just to see and it was pretty bad, and I tried multiple methods.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> I usually do the same every week but haven't been gaming lately, so I don't turn my PC on too often. I usually hold the fans on my Hyper 212 EVO (JetFlo 120s) still, and blow through the radiator first, then clean out the case. Is it necessary or even good, to change thermal paste that often? Also, do you have any preferences for what paste to use? I wound up using the stock CoolerMaster thermal paste, since the Tuniq TX-4 I bought didn't spread properly at all, I picked it up hours later just to see and it was pretty bad, and I tried multiple methods.


It's not necessary to change every 6 months but it's not 'bad' in any way, my PCs are on 24/7 usually under heavy load so the thermal compound tends to break down on me faster, longevity also depends on the thermal compound. The stock CM paste I've never tried, I'm assuming it's a more viscous compound that spreads a bit easier. The best CM brand thermal I know of is IC Essential E1 which is about equal to AS5 which I would rate "basic".

TX-4 is a thick paste, usually with that stuff I'll go with a ball a tad smaller then a pea or the line method, mount my cooler, then run prime95 for a while to heat it up really good so it spreads and resettles. It's just trial and error until you figure out a way to get a decent spread over the CPU lid, the 212 EVO doesn't seem to mount with much pressure so you may need to spread it a bit on your own if the cooler isn't spreading it. I definitely recommend heating your CPU up with a stress test for at least a few hours with a new application of thermal even though there isn't much of a cure time with TX-4. I used Arctic MX-4 with my 212 EVO using the 'pea' method.

As for preferences my go to pastes are:
Shin-Etsu G751 for long lasting applications (this stuff lasts a long time, I use it on my GPUs)
Tuniq TX-4 (it is a good paste, just a bit pricey for it's performance)
Arctic MX-4 or MX-2
Noctua NT-H1 (Great temps, can get lots of it for under $10). Probably my new favorite for basic stuff that doesn't have high end coolers.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Serious_Don*
> 
> It's not necessary to change every 6 months but it's not 'bad' in any way, my PCs are on 24/7 usually under heavy load so the thermal compound tends to break down on me faster, longevity also depends on the thermal compound. The stock CM paste I've never tried, I'm assuming it's a more viscous compound that spreads a bit easier. The best CM brand thermal I know of is IC Essential E1 which is about equal to AS5 which I would rate "basic".
> 
> TX-4 is a thick paste, usually with that stuff I'll go with a ball a tad smaller then a pea or the line method, mount my cooler, then run prime95 for a while to heat it up really good so it spreads and resettles. It's just trial and error until you figure out a way to get a decent spread over the CPU lid, the 212 EVO doesn't seem to mount with much pressure so you may need to spread it a bit on your own if the cooler isn't spreading it. I definitely recommend heating your CPU up with a stress test for at least a few hours with a new application of thermal even though there isn't much of a cure time with TX-4. I used Arctic MX-4 with my 212 EVO using the 'pea' method.
> 
> As for preferences my go to pastes are:
> Shin-Etsu G751 for long lasting applications (this stuff lasts a long time, I use it on my GPUs)
> Tuniq TX-4 (it is a good paste, just a bit pricey for it's performance)
> Arctic MX-4 or MX-2
> Noctua NT-H1 (Great temps, can get lots of it for under $10). Probably my new favorite for basic stuff that doesn't have high end coolers.


That's a good idea. I normally just let it run straight for a few days to settle in, since the most I do is play CS:GO which is roughly 30-50% load max.


----------



## Dhoulmagus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> That's a good idea. I normally just let it run straight for a few days to settle in, since the most I do is play CS:GO which is roughly 30-50% load max.


Advice on it may vary, it may just be a habit from doing this for so many years.. But if it works it works









At the least running the stress test you'll know that your CPU is running at acceptable temperatures at max stress so you don't have to worry anymore (I would go with X264 for the 4790k, look under the stressing option in the OP: http://www.overclock.net/t/1411077/haswell-overclocking-guide-with-statistics)


----------



## CannedBullets

Where could I buy spare fan mountings for the 212 EVO? I'm upgrading from a Corsair H100i to an H110 GTX so I won't need the two Noctua NF-F12s on the H100i which is why I'm going to switch the stock fan on the 212 EVO on my Dad's PC with two NF-F12s in push/pull.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Where could I buy spare fan mountings for the 212 EVO? I'm upgrading from a Corsair H100i to an H110 GTX so I won't need the two Noctua NF-F12s on the H100i which is why I'm going to switch the stock fan on the 212 EVO on my Dad's PC with two NF-F12s in push/pull.


Coolermaster site has an accessories pack for like $6 I think, comes with them I believe.


----------



## Lucky 23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Where could I buy spare fan mountings for the 212 EVO? I'm upgrading from a Corsair H100i to an H110 GTX so I won't need the two Noctua NF-F12s on the H100i which is why I'm going to switch the stock fan on the 212 EVO on my Dad's PC with two NF-F12s in push/pull.


http://www.cmstore-usa.com/hyper-212-evo-fan-mounting-clips-combo/


----------



## Madmaxneo

Hey all,
I have a Hyper 212 evo that I have not used in awhile as I am currently on watercooling with a swifttech H240-X on my gaming machine. I may be building another system soon and might go with a dual xeon setup for rendering and other graphic type tasks. I will be using a Hyper 212 Evo in this system (2 if it is the dual xeon) and was thinking about using dual fans on the Evo.

What is the difference in fan temps when OCing between running one fan and running dual fans on the Evo?

Thanks!


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Hey all,
> I have a Hyper 212 evo that I have not used in awhile as I am currently on watercooling with a swifttech H240-X on my gaming machine. I may be building another system soon and might go with a dual xeon setup for rendering and other graphic type tasks. I will be using a Hyper 212 Evo in this system (2 if it is the dual xeon) and was thinking about using dual fans on the Evo.
> 
> What is the difference in fan temps when OCing between running one fan and running dual fans on the Evo?
> 
> Thanks!


1 degree. Im serious most tests i've seen adding a 2nd fan to a 212 does either nothing or reduces load temps by 1 degree C.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> 1 degree. Im serious most tests i've seen adding a 2nd fan to a 212 does either nothing or reduces load temps by 1 degree C.


Can confirm. Bought 2 JetFlo 120mm's instead of one, like an idiot


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boinz*
> 
> 1 degree. Im serious most tests i've seen adding a 2nd fan to a 212 does either nothing or reduces load temps by 1 degree C.


Thanks for the info. I read the first post to this thread and it mentioned that at higher OC's two fans would make a difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> Can confirm. Bought 2 JetFlo 120mm's instead of one, like an idiot


Not an idiot. We all do things like that from time to time trying to get the best performance out of our systems.


----------



## Vario

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I read the first post to this thread and it mentioned that at higher OC's two fans would make a difference.
> Not an idiot. We all do things like that from time to time trying to get the best performance out of our systems.


Put a big single 120x38 fan on each if you can fit it.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Thanks for the info. I read the first post to this thread and it mentioned that at higher OC's two fans would make a difference.
> Not an idiot. We all do things like that from time to time trying to get the best performance out of our systems.


Yeah, I guess. I did see a difference when upgrading the fan(s) that go on the Hyper212, but I also upgraded my Radiator's Exhaust Fan to be able to handle the airflow from the JetFlo 120's.

Maybe a push/pull setup would benefit if you had an intake fan in the front of the case near the height of the heatsink?


----------



## Mortifera

Has anyone had trouble installing the 212Evo on a P8P67 so that the fan is facing towards the rear or front of the case? I've got the 212X, pretty much the same from what I can tell, and I tried mounting it so that it pulled air in from the rear-intake of my Bitfenix Ronin and it's just plain and simply not stable and cannot sit flush with my processor even after multiple attempts and shifting it around. It sits perfectly fine when mounting it vertically, so in this case it pulls air from the direction of my card.

The last option will be for me to remove the motherboard so I can get a good look at what might be obstructing it, but I suspect it's the VRM/EPU heatsink above the socket?
A friend has told me it will work and I believe I've seen an image before showing a 212 and P8P67 setup in such a way so I'm just at a complete loss


----------



## Boinz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mortifera*
> 
> Has anyone had trouble installing the 212Evo on a P8P67 so that the fan is facing towards the rear or front of the case? I've got the 212X, pretty much the same from what I can tell, and I tried mounting it so that it pulled air in from the rear-intake of my Bitfenix Ronin and it's just plain and simply not stable and cannot sit flush with my processor even after multiple attempts and shifting it around. It sits perfectly fine when mounting it vertically, so in this case it pulls air from the direction of my card.
> 
> The last option will be for me to remove the motherboard so I can get a good look at what might be obstructing it, but I suspect it's the VRM/EPU heatsink above the socket?
> A friend has told me it will work and I believe I've seen an image before showing a 212 and P8P67 setup in such a way so I'm just at a complete loss


Have you tried mounting the cm212 on your motherboard outside the case?


----------



## OppoLock

Just put a red LED strip on the underside of the cooler. I think it turned out great except for the cable.


----------



## agsz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OppoLock*
> 
> Just put a red LED strip on the underside of the cooler. I think it turned out great except for the cable.


That looks pretty good. What are the Blue & Green LED's coming from? Also, what case is that?


----------



## OppoLock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agsz*
> 
> That looks pretty good. What are the Blue & Green LED's coming from? Also, what case is that?


The green LED is the RAM. It's the Crucial Ballistix Tracer. It has two color LEDs, red and green.

The blue LEDs aren't actually blue, they're white, but the camera makes them look that way.

The case is the NZXT H440.


----------



## TrueForm

I have an EVO cooling my Ivy Bridge OC'd. Pretty impressed how well this cooler does it's job. For the price for it, it's defiantly a great air cooler.


----------



## OppoLock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TrueForm*
> 
> I have an EVO cooling my Ivy Bridge OC'd. Pretty impressed how well this cooler does it's job. For the price for it, it's defiantly a great air cooler.


It's amazing for the price. I have it cooling my 4690k OC'd to 4.8Ghz @ 1.298v, and the temps don't exceed 70c. I was thinking about buying the H100i GTX to replace my 212 evo, but I don't think the couple of degrees of difference is worth the $100.


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OppoLock*
> 
> It's amazing for the price. I have it cooling my 4690k OC'd to 4.8Ghz @ 1.298v, and the temps don't exceed 70c. I was thinking about buying the H100i GTX to replace my 212 evo, but I don't think the couple of degrees of difference is worth the $100.


Its a common misconception that AIO coolers are better then air coolers when its fact the other way around.
Forget about the H100i as you say its not worth $100, if you want a new cooler get a good air cooler instead.


----------



## OppoLock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Its a common misconception that AIO coolers are better then air coolers when its fact the other way around.
> Forget about the H100i as you say its not worth $100, if you want a new cooler get a good air cooler instead.


Any coolers that perform as good as the D15 but look better?


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OppoLock*
> 
> Any coolers that perform as good as the D15 but look better?


The new Cooler Master Air Master 8 should be almost as good from what i saw from reviews.
Just note that its not really a cheap cooler.








Otherwise you have many other options from Cryorig / Be Quiet / Phanteks and Thermalright.


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OppoLock*
> 
> Any coolers that perform as good as the D15 but look better?
> 
> 
> 
> The new Cooler Master Air Master 8 should be almost as good from what i saw from reviews.
> Just note that its not really a cheap cooler.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: The rest of the post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise you have many other options from Cryorig / Be Quiet / Phanteks and Thermalright.
Click to expand...

I only care for value and this doesn't look cheap.


----------



## Tisser12

I have my evo running on top of an A10 6800k overclocked to 4.6Ghz. Recently got some new fans, and decided to try adding a second one to my evo, like everyone said on here, it didn't make too much of a difference, but I have one more thing to try yet. I'm going to add that fan at CPU-cooler level into the front of my case, I noticed a 140mm fan fits almost perfectly in the space I have my 3 5.25" bay "ports", so I'll just need to mod the door that goes over the front of those bays, and get the fan mounted and I should have nice cool airflow directly into the cooler. Otherwise, I'll just remove the push fan and leave the pull on there. Or maybe swap the corsair AF fan to the push fan instead... Ideas?


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> I have my evo running on top of an A10 6800k overclocked to 4.6Ghz. Recently got some new fans, and decided to try adding a second one to my evo, like everyone said on here, it didn't make too much of a difference, but I have one more thing to try yet. I'm going to add that fan at CPU-cooler level into the front of my case, I noticed a 140mm fan fits almost perfectly in the space I have my 3 5.25" bay "ports", so I'll just need to mod the door that goes over the front of those bays, and get the fan mounted and I should have nice cool airflow directly into the cooler. Otherwise, I'll just remove the push fan and leave the pull on there. Or maybe swap the corsair AF fan to the push fan instead... Ideas?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I believe adding a fan to the front of your case in the external drive bays at CPU level will give much better results than having two fans on the hyper 212. I say this because I have done something similar.
BTW, I actually switched to water cooling with a Swiftech AIO H240 which gives better performance under load than my evo did (I have also since chainged the tubing and waterblock out).
Regardless that I have an AIO watercooler I had wondered if adding a fan at cpu level to blow directly to the back fan (also at cpu level) would improve my temps any. Since I only have two bays open and unused I was limited in my choice of fan sizes. So I ordered a single 80mm fan to fut in the drive bay to see if it would improve my temps any. There were plenty of naysayers that said it would not make a difference and that I'd be wasting my money. But I installed it anyway and it is still installed and going strong. After installing the little 80mm fan I immediately noticed a drop in my CPU temps between 2 to 5 deg Celsius, which is a big change considering my cpu temps run at about 30 deg at idle. After doing an Intel burn test my max under load temps were about 62 deg Celcius, which is about 2 deg lower than before the 80mm fan.

So yes I do believe putting a fan in that area will make a good difference in CPU temps......

My theory as to why this worked so well for me is because that area in the front of the case that is level with the CPU is normally a "dead air" area because there are no fans that blow directly through that area on my case. So it helped by simply adding something that will at least get the air moving in that area.


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> I believe adding a fan to the front of your case in the external drive bays at CPU level will give much better results than having two fans on the hyper 212. I say this because I have done something similar.
> BTW, I actually switched to water cooling with a Swiftech AIO H240 which gives better performance under load than my evo did (I have also since chainged the tubing and waterblock out).
> Regardless that I have an AIO watercooler I had wondered if adding a fan at cpu level to blow directly to the back fan (also at cpu level) would improve my temps any. Since I only have two bays open and unused I was limited in my choice of fan sizes. So I ordered a single 80mm fan to fut in the drive bay to see if it would improve my temps any. There were plenty of naysayers that said it would not make a difference and that I'd be wasting my money. But I installed it anyway and it is still installed and going strong. After installing the little 80mm fan I immediately noticed a drop in my CPU temps between 2 to 5 deg Celsius, which is a big change considering my cpu temps run at about 30 deg at idle. After doing an Intel burn test my max under load temps were about 62 deg Celcius, which is about 2 deg lower than before the 80mm fan.
> 
> So yes I do believe putting a fan in that area will make a good difference in CPU temps......
> 
> My theory as to why this worked so well for me is because that area in the front of the case that is level with the CPU is normally a "dead air" area because there are no fans that blow directly through that area on my case. So it helped by simply adding something that will at least get the air moving in that area.


I feel like I just need a second intake fan, I've got 3 exhaust, so there's a lot of air being pulled from random gaps and whatnot. Especially since my case is designed weird with the extra plastic bits added for "flair" that are hollow behind. Lets a bit of hot air recirculate due to negative pressure. An extra 140mm fan up front will help my temps a good bit I'd assume. I do plan on ditching the push side of the cooler fans, and just use the one corsair AF 120 on pull.


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> I feel like I just need a second intake fan, I've got 3 exhaust, so there's a lot of air being pulled from random gaps and whatnot. Especially since my case is designed weird with the extra plastic bits added for "flair" that are hollow behind. Lets a bit of hot air recirculate due to negative pressure. An extra 140mm fan up front will help my temps a good bit I'd assume. I do plan on ditching the push side of the cooler fans, and just use the one corsair AF 120 on pull.


I agree, your case is weird.















To effectively use the 5.25 bays as an intake you will need to have their bayt door open.
You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> I feel like I just need a second intake fan, I've got 3 exhaust, so there's a lot of air being pulled from random gaps and whatnot. Especially since my case is designed weird with the extra plastic bits added for "flair" that are hollow behind. Lets a bit of hot air recirculate due to negative pressure. An extra 140mm fan up front will help my temps a good bit I'd assume. I do plan on ditching the push side of the cooler fans, and just use the one corsair AF 120 on pull.


Yeah your case is a little weird. Needless to say you do need positive air pressure so adding a fan with some good stats will definitely help with getting positive air pressure resulting in better temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree, your case is weird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To effectively use the 5.25 bays as an intake you will need to have their bayt door open.
> You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


Interesting stuff there in that link. I have noticed in my case that there are dead air spots where there is not really any air moving. like in the very top front part of my case. This is primarily because there are no fans in that area due to the external drive bays in the front and the PC controls and audio on top. It would be nice to get a case that has a set up that allows air to flow throughout the entire case while pushing the hot air out without mixing it in with the cooler air. FYI, I have a Phantom 820 and I need my external drive bays so finding an EATX case with great airflow all around with the features I want is next to impossible, especially at the lower price points.

Consequently I have pretty good airflow in my case now but my CPU temps are 7 to 9 deg fahrenheit higher than my ambient room temps. But no matter what I can't really get my CPU temps below 28 to 30 deg celcius, which is(82 to 86 deg fahrenheit when my room is about 75 deg fahrenheit (23 deg celcius). Even with my case open and a fan blowing on towards the case doesn't help with temps any....


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Interesting stuff there in that link. I have noticed in my case that there are dead air spots where there is not really any air moving. like in the very top front part of my case. This is primarily because there are no fans in that area due to the external drive bays in the front and the PC controls and audio on top. It would be nice to get a case that has a set up that allows air to flow throughout the entire case while pushing the hot air out without mixing it in with the cooler air. FYI, I have a Phantom 820 and I need my external drive bays so finding an EATX case with great airflow all around with the features I want is next to impossible, especially at the lower price points.
> 
> Consequently I have pretty good airflow in my case now but my CPU temps are 7 to 9 deg fahrenheit higher than my ambient room temps. But no matter what I can't really get my CPU temps below 28 to 30 deg celcius, which is(82 to 86 deg fahrenheit when my room is about 75 deg fahrenheit (23 deg celcius). Even with my case open and a fan blowing on towards the case doesn't help with temps any....


Airflow does not require fans in an area. Additionally, airflow for it's own sake does not necessarily cool things. Cooling requires the flow of cool air over hotter components, so if the air in the top front of your case is same temp as components up there are, making it move serves no purpose..
Most of my builds only use 3x intakes and often no exhaust fans at all. By monitoring air temps in different places I determine where and if the airflow needs to be changed. Flowing air is like flowing water. There are currents and channels it flows while there are also ebbs and eddies where it slows, turns in circles or doesn't move at all.

Have you looked at the Phanteks Enthoo Primo? With little to no work it flows very well. All I did was add a castor base for ease of movement (but does improve airflow to bottom, and played around with blocking top venting except for intake in front most position. Ended up wiht 2x front , 1x bottom and 1x top intake fans. No exhaust fan needed and things were very cool and quiet. Only reason I quite using Primo is because it was bigger than needs, but more because it didn't fit in the places I had to place it. I'm now using Enthoo Evolv ATX and Enthoo Luxe .. and trying to figure out how to mod an Enthoo MiniXL to ATX EATX motherboard.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Airflow does not require fans in an area. Additionally, airflow for it's own sake does not necessarily cool things. Cooling requires the flow of cool air over hotter components, so if the air in the top front of your case is same temp as components up there are, making it move serves no purpose..
> Most of my builds only use 3x intakes and often no exhaust fans at all. By monitoring air temps in different places I determine where and if the airflow needs to be changed. Flowing air is like flowing water. There are currents and channels it flows while there are also ebbs and eddies where it slows, turns in circles or doesn't move at all.
> 
> Have you looked at the Phanteks Enthoo Primo? With little to no work it flows very well. All I did was add a castor base for ease of movement (but does improve airflow to bottom, and played around with blocking top venting except for intake in front most position. Ended up wiht 2x front , 1x bottom and 1x top intake fans. No exhaust fan needed and things were very cool and quiet. Only reason I quite using Primo is because it was bigger than needs, but more because it didn't fit in the places I had to place it. I'm now using Enthoo Evolv ATX and Enthoo Luxe .. and trying to figure out how to mod an Enthoo MiniXL to ATX EATX motherboard.


I am sending a PM so as to not go with more posts off topic for this thread.


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I agree, your case is weird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To effectively use the 5.25 bays as an intake you will need to have their bayt door open.
> You might find "Ways to Better Cooling" link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


Oh, I already have a plan for the bay door. Gonna buy a removeable dust screen and just either swiss-cheese the bay door or cut a hole in it to slide the screen into so I can remove it easily to clean. Then I'll do a test with the new fan installed with both fans on my hyper 212, and then I'll remove the stock PWM push fan from it and just leave the Corsair AF120 on pull while the new fan blows cool air directly towards it.

As an aside,
Anyone "mod" their hyper 212 and put tape over the gap between the fan and the rad to seal it up a little more? I've been debating doing that once I cut down to just my Pull fan, so that it's pulling air ONLY through the rad and not from the gaps between the fan and the rad. That way there's max airflow THROUGH my radiator.

If you look at the first pic, you can see how the front of my case has that rounded "port" towards the bottom, that's my single intake.. Then I have 2X120's up top on exhaust and the rear fan on exhaust. And the second pic is just a really good one I got of my Sapphire card.


----------



## Tisser12

I updated my rig's build/update thread with my 140 intake mod, as well as taping the top gaps on my 212 between the rad and fans.
Here's the link so I'm not reposting it a hundred times

I can tell it's going to make it run a good bit cooler.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> I updated my rig's build/update thread with my 140 intake mod, as well as taping the top gaps on my 212 between the rad and fans.
> Here's the link so I'm not reposting it a hundred times
> 
> I can tell it's going to make it run a good bit cooler.


What are your new temps?


----------



## Tisser12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tisser12*
> 
> I updated my rig's build/update thread with my 140 intake mod, as well as taping the top gaps on my 212 between the rad and fans.
> Here's the link so I'm not reposting it a hundred times
> 
> I can tell it's going to make it run a good bit cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> What are your new temps?
Click to expand...

3Dmark bench score

Decent for the CPU I have. Can probably try for a higher OC since I "modded" in a second intake fan.

After running that benchmark twice in a row my temps on my CPU were definitley down, I have to game here for a few hours to fully test out how cool it keeps it. Stress tests are nice and all but I'm looking for real-world temps with crazy peaks and whathave you. GPU and CPU running at the same time. Will report back. Literally finished the project, booted up my PC and posted the pictures, getting ready to game now.


----------



## Tisser12

CPU temps were down *edited* almost 20C from before, GPU temps didnt' change, my VRM 1 temps actually went up... I want to point out that I had the lower intake and one exhaust on the "low" setting on my fan controller for this test run because the lower intake is sorta noisy on high. Next test run will be with them all on high.

Previous Temps -- ignore the circled area.. lol it was a sensor error during a long fallout 4 session.. I think?


Run 1 temps (long Far Cry 4 on ultra settings session)


Run 2 temps (All fans on high)


GPU fan speeds lowered a bit with the case fans on high, meaning the overall temp spikes for my GPU went down, and my max CPU temp was still only 35C which is way down from the 55-60C I saw before.


----------



## OdinSon

I have EVO on my newest build pure air cooled the THOR V2 is a beast for air cooling never seen a case this good

Usually around 28-29C idle

snap of HWinfo got games downloading installing, OBS running, TS running, multiple browser tabs open

"THOR's Hammer"
http://www.modsrigs.com/detail.aspx?BuildID=35441

MY RIG SPECS:
[Case] Rosewill THOR V2 Full Tower Case
[CPU] Intel Skylake i6700k Unlocked 4.2ghz 1151 socket - OC'd @ 4.6 on stock air cooling. "65ish on AIR is hottest is has been and that comes from BF1"
[Power Supply] EVGA SuperNova G2 750W PSU "10 Year Warranty"
[Mother Board] EVGA Z170 FTW MB "10 Year Warranty"EVGA GeForce GTX 960 FTW GAMING ACX 2.0+ with Backplate - 2GB's
[Memory] 2x8GB G.SKILL RIPJAWS V DDR4 3200mhz memory "Lifetime Warranty"
[Keyboard] G.SKILL RIPJAWS KM780 MX Mechanical Gaming Keyboard - Cherry MX Brown with Gaming Keycaps (Amzazing board 10+ out of 10)
[SSD] 120GB V300 Kingston SSD - 530+ read/write in ATTO
[HHD] 2x1TB WD Blacks dual processors
[HHD] 1x5TB WD Black
[OS] Windows 8.1 Pro 64
[CPU Cooler] Cooler Master Hyper 212X 2x120mm fans
[Mouse] Razer Abyssus 3500dpi


----------



## Andrea87

Have been a proud owner of a 212+ for quite a few years.

In the past, it run my Phenom II 965BE at 4Ghz with not too much issues, haven't got temp info for that anymore.

Now, with an LGA2011 Bracket, it's cooling my (hot) Xeon E5-1650. At 4Ghz/1.125V it stays under 65°C, I've tested it at 4.3Ghz / 1.225V hitting 85° mark so not too much margin in there.

Paste is Arctic MX-2, reseated a couple times to swap cpu's.

The heatsink has a fan pushing air out just behind it, in the case I have two small fans near the drives pulling air in, and one on the bottom under the graphic card pulling air in. Perhaps I should hack the side panel too to add an input fan somewhere. The case is an old Xaser III that got a particular encounter with my drill press.

I have two of the original cooler master fans, now quite noisy... I found no way to open them up to grease up the bearings, anyone has info on this? Running two AC fans now, but the difference is there...

Pics:


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrea87*
> 
> Have been a proud owner of a 212+ for quite a few years.
> 
> In the past, it run my Phenom II 965BE at 4Ghz with not too much issues, haven't got temp info for that anymore.
> 
> Now, with an LGA2011 Bracket, it's cooling my (hot) Xeon E5-1650. At 4Ghz/1.125V it stays under 65°C, I've tested it at 4.3Ghz / 1.225V hitting 85° mark so not too much margin in there.
> 
> Paste is Arctic MX-2, reseated a couple times to swap cpu's.
> 
> The heatsink has a fan pushing air out just behind it, in the case I have two small fans near the drives pulling air in, and one on the bottom under the graphic card pulling air in. Perhaps I should hack the side panel too to add an input fan somewhere. The case is an old Xaser III that got a particular encounter with my drill press.
> 
> I have two of the original cooler master fans, now quite noisy... I found no way to open them up to grease up the bearings, anyone has info on this? Running two AC fans now, but the difference is there...
> 
> Pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is not really a great case for air cooling. If you wanted better temps I would go with a different maybe larger case and watercooling for your CPU. Air cooling works great for most tasks but when you have a case that has limited airflow, are OCing, and/or have a chip that runs hot, watercooling will help you out loads more.

My CM Hyper 212 did great for a long while until I started OCing my chip. It worked decently enough but when I went to watercooling the CPU my temps got that much better.


----------



## Andrea87

Well, I agree the xaser originally is not a good air cooling case. It's designed for 80mm fans, with no real air intake or outtake on top or bottom of the case. But I got it rather cheap from a friend, and decided to invest some time into it.
I added 120mm fan spaces on the top, bottom and back panels, creating a little bit better of an airflow inside it. I still would need to add an air input hole on the side panel to balance the flow and get the temps to be a little lower.

The original intention of this build (log here) has been to create a cheap powerful platform, so water cooling is not a viable option for this build, not either a different better performing heatsink, that would cost me most likely as much as my processor. The main block, mobo + ram + cpu was purchased for something like 240€, which is rather cheap for a six core / 16gb ddr3 xeon build.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrea87*
> 
> Well, I agree the xaser originally is not a good air cooling case. It's designed for 80mm fans, with no real air intake or outtake on top or bottom of the case. But I got it rather cheap from a friend, and decided to invest some time into it.
> I added 120mm fan spaces on the top, bottom and back panels, creating a little bit better of an airflow inside it. I still would need to add an air input hole on the side panel to balance the flow and get the temps to be a little lower.
> 
> The original intention of this build (log here) has been to create a cheap powerful platform, so water cooling is not a viable option for this build, not either a different better performing heatsink, that would cost me most likely as much as my processor. The main block, mobo + ram + cpu was purchased for something like 240€, which is rather cheap for a six core / 16gb ddr3 xeon build.


There are a few good AIO setups that would work and are not that expensive at all. I have personally been using the Swiftech H240-X for well over a year now and it is an awesome CPU cooler, best of all it is on sale for $105, here is a link: *Swiftech H240-X*. If that is to big for your case they have the H220-X on sale for $95 *here*. They used to have a smaller H140 but I think they cleared them all out.

I do understand a limited budget so even those prices may not be good. I do like the CM Hyper 212 and it is probably the best cooler for the job.
If you want to try and get better temps I have a few ideas if you are interested. I have a few that would work even on an extremely limited budget.
A few questions first:
*1.* In what direction are your fans blowing air, otherwise what fans are blowing in and which ones are blowing out? If you only have one fan blowing in and all the others blowing out your temps will suck because you more than likely have negative airflow pressure. I have a few ideas but I need to know how the air is flowing in your case.
*2.*It looks like you have one fan on the bottom. It is halfway restricted due to blowing halfway on the video card, but possibly even more so with all the cables right above the open half.
*3.* What are those wooden blocks for on those multiple HDDs for?
*4.* Is that a floppy drive? Do you even use that anymore? If you do not need it I'd get rid of it. You might be able to mod the case a little to put a small fan of some kind in that area to blow air into the case and directly across the CPU, that will help your temps pretty decently. In fact that might be the sweet spot for a fan because even getting a little air to blow across your CPU would help. A small 40 to 80mm fan would also work in that area.
*5.* Does that case sit flat on the floor? If it does then that bottom fan is not helping at all. You need to have room for the fan to pull air into the case (assuming that fan is pulling air in). If the case is sitting on casters of some kind then that is awesome. If not find a way to raise the PC up an inch or more.

One thing you could try is a little better cable management as all those cable just hanging around could affect airflow some. Some zip ties, velcro, or even wire ties could drastically improve the free space in your case, and by proxy improving airflow a little. You could also look into trying to add at least a couple more fans to that case if at all possible.
I would also try and consolidate those drives and free up some more space. If you could get a single large capacity drive to take the place of all those drives it would help a great deal. For that matter if you could take out that entire drive cage and mod the case some and put a fan in there your temps would improve. If you are able to consolidate all those drives to a single drive you could easily mount the drive on the back wall to do this.


----------



## Andrea87

MadmaxNeo, thanks for the good suggestions.

I'll reply to your questions with some information, a few things are still to be improved.

1-2. Fan and relative pressure. The decision to place the vga in the lowest slot with the fan underneath is temporary, in the future I will swap the vga and the sound card to get a better airflow in there. My Sapphire 7950 suffers from the fan death issue, my left fan (near vrm) has died, it still runs ok on one fan, I placed it there to have some bit of added airflow from the bottom fan. I'm expecting the replacement fans to come in next week. As other fans, there are two 80mm on the front pulling through the drive bays, but the xaser has a very solid (aluminium) front panel, with an opening on the bottom of it, so there's not too much space to pull air from the front. There's the openable (still solid) door near the drives bays, I could fit a fan pulling in there, but I would need to run the pc with the front door/panel opened.
As for other fans, there are two as output, one behind the cpu and one on the top of the case (plus the psu fan, but that's little airflow compared to the other two). In sum, I most likely have negative pressure inside the case, I will add a fan to the side panel to pull air in in the future.

3. Hard drive setup. I'm migrating data, and going to reduce disk number to at least 3 (2+3+4tb). They're fixed now by wooden blocks and neoprene tape, I did that as a quite ghetto fix in the beginning, I'm waiting for the toolless drive slides from the friend who sold me the case.

4. Inside the floppy bay are my two ssd, a 275GB Crucial as boot plus my old 128G OCZ as games/VM drive, plus an USB3 front connector. If i can avoid 80mm or sub-80mm fans I'll do that gladly, the two ones near the drives now run at low speed, as they are quite noisy compared even to cheaper 120mm ones. I'll rather put the side panel under my drill press rather than add a noisy fan in the front.

5. I built my own custom table with steel square piping, the computer is held ~ 15 cm off the ground, so there's a lot of space in there to pull air in. Even considering that the xaser is big (and bloody heavy), it raises almost all important things to a much more usable height (rather than ground level).

You also proposed dual fan integrated liquid... That could be interesting, I have space near the first top fan to create a second place for one in, so that could be done most likely easily. I'll keep an eye open on the italian used marketplace forums. This xeon is indeed a very hot cpu, but still, the computer as is now runs cool enough for me (~65°C at 4GHz full stress test, and 60 while gaming), with no hotspots or other issues. But well, it's november, and I have 18°C in my room, so I'll have to consider this more seriously near the summer.

Thanks
Andrea


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrea87*
> 
> MadmaxNeo, thanks for the good suggestions.
> 
> I'll reply to your questions with some information, a few things are still to be improved.
> 
> 1-2. Fan and relative pressure. The decision to place the vga in the lowest slot with the fan underneath is temporary, in the future I will swap the vga and the sound card to get a better airflow in there. My Sapphire 7950 suffers from the fan death issue, my left fan (near vrm) has died, it still runs ok on one fan, I placed it there to have some bit of added airflow from the bottom fan. I'm expecting the replacement fans to come in next week. As other fans, there are two 80mm on the front pulling through the drive bays, but the xaser has a very solid (aluminium) front panel, with an opening on the bottom of it, so there's not too much space to pull air from the front. There's the openable (still solid) door near the drives bays, I could fit a fan pulling in there, but I would need to run the pc with the front door/panel opened.
> As for other fans, there are two as output, one behind the cpu and one on the top of the case (plus the psu fan, but that's little airflow compared to the other two). In sum, I most likely have negative pressure inside the case, I will add a fan to the side panel to pull air in in the future.
> 
> 3. Hard drive setup. I'm migrating data, and going to reduce disk number to at least 3 (2+3+4tb). They're fixed now by wooden blocks and neoprene tape, I did that as a quite ghetto fix in the beginning, I'm waiting for the toolless drive slides from the friend who sold me the case.
> 
> 4. Inside the floppy bay are my two ssd, a 275GB Crucial as boot plus my old 128G OCZ as games/VM drive, plus an USB3 front connector. If i can avoid 80mm or sub-80mm fans I'll do that gladly, the two ones near the drives now run at low speed, as they are quite noisy compared even to cheaper 120mm ones. I'll rather put the side panel under my drill press rather than add a noisy fan in the front.
> 
> 5. I built my own custom table with steel square piping, the computer is held ~ 15 cm off the ground, so there's a lot of space in there to pull air in. Even considering that the xaser is big (and bloody heavy), it raises almost all important things to a much more usable height (rather than ground level).
> 
> You also proposed dual fan integrated liquid... That could be interesting, I have space near the first top fan to create a second place for one in, so that could be done most likely easily. I'll keep an eye open on the italian used marketplace forums. This xeon is indeed a very hot cpu, but still, the computer as is now runs cool enough for me (~65°C at 4GHz full stress test, and 60 while gaming), with no hotspots or other issues. But well, it's november, and I have 18°C in my room, so I'll have to consider this more seriously near the summer.
> 
> Thanks
> Andrea


That sucks that one of your graphics card fans died. I hope you can get that fixed or replaced soon. Moving the video card was one of my suggestions and I should have mentioned that in my other post. Either way you may be better off just looking for a simple cheap case that has better air flow. One thing I did not really look at is the distance from the top of your case to the CPU. If you were to get one of the CPU watercoolers I mentioned you would have to change out the tubing for longer lengths as I do not believe what they come preinstalled with is long enough to reach the CPU in that position. That does change the dynamics a little if you have to do some changes to the water loop. But that is up to you if you would still want to go through with that.

Looking at your case I had an idea that may work for your system. You can try reversing the rear fan and the cpu fans so they blow air into the case and leaving only the top fan as exhaust. That way you would have a stronger flow of cooler air blowing directly onto your CPU cooler. You should try that and see if it reduces your temps any. It should be simple enough as all you should have to do is turn the fans around without taking off the CPU cooler. If you really wanted to you could also change the front fans to blow out but I do not think that would help any...


----------



## Andrea87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> Looking at your case I had an idea that may work for your system. You can try reversing the rear fan and the cpu fans so they blow air into the case and leaving only the top fan as exhaust. That way you would have a stronger flow of cooler air blowing directly onto your CPU cooler. You should try that and see if it reduces your temps any. It should be simple enough as all you should have to do is turn the fans around without taking off the CPU cooler. If you really wanted to you could also change the front fans to blow out but I do not think that would help any...


That's a clever idea. The back fan pulls in cool air near the wall, passes it through the cpu heatsink, and then it goes up to the top fan as exaust. That could be a good thing. Only limitation is, those arctic F12 pro are only placeable in one way (as exhaust), I would need to build some sort of spacers to mount the fan to pull in. I'll just use one of the fans I have lying around, that'll be easier.

I might try this next weekend, I'll get some data and post results.


----------



## doyll

I try not to use back as intake, but airflow is a fickled witch and she often does the unexpected. It only take a few minutes to switch the fans around and it just might help.








You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrea87*
> 
> That's a clever idea. The back fan pulls in cool air near the wall, passes it through the cpu heatsink, and then it goes up to the top fan as exaust. That could be a good thing. Only limitation is, those arctic F12 pro are only placeable in one way (as exhaust), I would need to build some sort of spacers to mount the fan to pull in. I'll just use one of the fans I have lying around, that'll be easier.
> 
> I might try this next weekend, I'll get some data and post results.


The fans on the 212 should be able to switch around easily enough. I know mine did. All I had to do was take them off, flip them over, and remount them. Of course I do not remember if the fan you mentioned is the original fan or not.
Also, @doyll has some good suggestions in his "Ways to better Cooling" link. I learned quite a bit from those pages.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> I try not to use back as intake, but airflow is a fickled witch and she often does the unexpected. It only take a few minutes to switch the fans around and it just might help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might find 'Ways to Better Cooling' link in my sig of interest. 1st post is index, click on topic to see it. 5th is a good place to start.


I agree but I am hoping that using that larger fan to draw air in will help. Hopefully testing will go good for him.


----------



## Quickman

Hi,

I just removed my Hyper 212 plus from an old machine that I want to use on a new build. I used 3 lines of MX-2 thermal compound previously. I used coffee filters with 99% and 91% isopropyl to remove the thermal compound. That worked fine but in between the copper and aluminium there's these thin crevices with thermal compound stuck in it.

How do I remove it?

I considered using a toothpick but it's not thin enough. The only thing I can think of is a needle, but I don't want to scratch anything.

I'm thinking about using Arctic Silver's arcticlean thermal compound remover which worked great when I used it to remove the MX-2 off of the cpu IHS. What I'm worried about is, what kind of residue would the emulsifer, or whatever is in the first bottle, leave? How would I then remove this residue?

If I can't remove the MX-2, is it ok to use the heatsink again on an 5675C chip with MX-4? or would this cause other problems?

Or should I just buy a new heatsink?


----------



## Andrea87

The stuff stuck in the crevices won't make contact with your cpu. On mine, after a thoughtful cleaning, I left it here. Just make seure the new paste covers well the pipes and the contact is good.

Not to mention, your cpu is quite low power, 65W TDP is quite well handled by the 212+. Mine runs a 125w+ xeon daily without issues.

You should be more than fine with the cleaning you've done already.


----------



## Quickman

Thanks! I even forgot to mention I tried q tips with 99% Isopropyl on it, I did get a streak of compound each time I pressed down on it but the mx-2 was still there so I'm assuming like you said mx-2 stuck in the crevices won't even make contact with the CPU IHS.

Good to know I'm not alone with this issue!

I might try the arcticlean maybe as one ditch effort to get it out.


----------



## nowcontrol

Try using an old toothbrush.









Tho as was said before, what is left in there will not make any difference to anything.


----------



## Quickman

I was thinking about using an old toothbrush, I think it would have worked too maybe. But I just used the arcticlean emulsifier(bottle 1). It made the compound all runny. Then I folded the coffee filter really thin and slipped it into the crevice to remove the compound. I repeated this several times with each crevice. Then I used bottle #2 and repeated the same thing. And then finally afterwards I wiped the base down with some 99% Isopropyl. The base looks a little marked up but I think it may have been like that before I got it, I can't remember. But I got all the compound off.

Hopefully there's no residue from arcticlean bottle 1 in the crevices. But I think I did a good job.

Thanks for the tips guys!


----------



## OdinSon

This little cooler is hands down the best bang by huge bounds for the buck I have purchased.

I bought it on rig build, but always wanted to try water cooling for the heck of it because my Army buddy has always ran WC rigs but with AMD.

I studied the coolers for the 1151 i7's when the i6700k was top literally weeks reading reviews and seeing people happy with those high temps I thought it was just a fluke what was being posted or even my sensors on my new EVGA FTW Z170 board at the time.

I went ahead with Corsair CPU blocks tried 2 and both worked, pumps and all were A ok but pathetic cooling vs this cooler running a push pull on air and my whole system on air.

Needless to say this cooler destroyed all attempts at water cooling by large margins of 10C+

I get 21-23C idle & on prime95 it peaked @ 66C on a overclock of 4.6ghz

Idle on tested WC's were all 35C or above and mid 70sC under load.

Anyhow here is mine, been a long time since I have logged in here just posting because this was only notification when I logged in, probably posted after build. lol

Yup this image was already uploaded


Still going strong on same components getting about 25C normal desktop/browser load and pushing 2 media servers to 6 devices

This was during a tear down on the great Windows 10 Boot Loop error before the bug info came out at least it got a good cleaning


One other thing if you want to save a few bucks if prices didn't change I bought the single fan cooler then purchased exact same fan for push pull and came out $10 cheaper at the time of my build vs the dual evo fan kit


----------



## OdinSon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quickman*
> 
> I was thinking about using an old toothbrush, I think it would have worked too maybe. But I just used the arcticlean emulsifier(bottle 1). It made the compound all runny. Then I folded the coffee filter really thin and slipped it into the crevice to remove the compound. I repeated this several times with each crevice. Then I used bottle #2 and repeated the same thing. And then finally afterwards I wiped the base down with some 99% Isopropyl. The base looks a little marked up but I think it may have been like that before I got it, I can't remember. But I got all the compound off.
> 
> Hopefully there's no residue from arcticlean bottle 1 in the crevices. But I think I did a good job.
> 
> Thanks for the tips guys!


It's best to run the system a bit throw it under some load to get temps up and break the thermal compound down into goo then remove it super to easy to remove this way, then use a little alcohol to shine the base of cooler and CPU face up for reapplying.

When removing cold it is a pain like you described give the above a shot next application
















Not much at all is needed maybe a rice size squirt in all I just gently push and use the tip to spread at same time never had over flow off cpu ridge this method and always stay well cooled.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinSon*
> 
> This little cooler is hands down the best bang by huge bounds for the buck I have purchased.
> 
> I bought it on rig build, but always wanted to try water cooling for the heck of it because my Army buddy has always ran WC rigs but with AMD.
> 
> I studied the coolers for the 1151 i7's when the i6700k was top literally weeks reading reviews and seeing people happy with those high temps I thought it was just a fluke what was being posted or even my sensors on my new EVGA FTW Z170 board at the time.
> 
> I went ahead with Corsair CPU blocks tried 2 and both worked, pumps and all were A ok but pathetic cooling vs this cooler running a push pull on air and my whole system on air.
> 
> Needless to say this cooler destroyed all attempts at water cooling by large margins of 10C+
> 
> I get 21-23C idle & on prime95 it peaked @ 66C on a overclock of 4.6ghz
> 
> Idle on tested WC's were all 35C or above and mid 70sC under load.
> 
> Anyhow here is mine, been a long time since I have logged in here just posting because this was only notification when I logged in, probably posted after build. lol
> 
> Yup this image was already uploaded
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still going strong on same components getting about 25C normal desktop/browser load and pushing 2 media servers to 6 devices
> 
> This was during a tear down on the great Windows 10 Boot Loop error before the bug info came out at least it got a good cleaning
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One other thing if you want to save a few bucks if prices didn't change I bought the single fan cooler then purchased exact same fan for push pull and came out $10 cheaper at the time of my build vs the dual evo fan kit


This is a great air cooler, in fact I would say the best out there but I have heard there are better newer air coolers. I agree that this is still the best bang for the buck period.....!

But it is odd that you got such higher temps while water cooling. I went from this cooler to a Swiftech AIO (H-240X) over a year ago and it is still running strong. When I first put in my Swiftech I noticed a big drop in temps at idle and even more so when OC'd and stress testing. My idle temps are about 27 to 32 deg but my room temp is warmer than normal so my ambient temps are higher. My high temps averaged about 57 deg with a peak of about 64 deg, all when under full load.

I may be building a dual xeon system soon and will be going with two of these hyper 212's to keep it cool.

I do have a question for you. You use a push pull configuration on you hyper 212. I have been shown that a push pull makes no difference whatsoever on average and at best maybe a 1 or 2 deg difference. How much of a difference in temps did you get between a single fan and using two fans?


----------



## OdinSon

I found it hard to conceive as well man but the temps I was getting on air vs what my buddy did on AMD WC'd he was in teens but this is AMD

I used 2 Corsair CPU blocks and noda it was a joke temps being 10+C high on both units and they were not faulty, I checked them hard then Corsair checked upon returns. It would of taken a 240mm block on the CPU just to compete with this EVO.

After trying the 2 I then became aware out of the 100s and 100s of reviews across newegg and other sites was no fluke because they were reporting mid 30 temps idle on almost all reviews. This was a few months after build I did this.

To tell you the truth I did not keep track I just did it for the heck of it was eyeing the dual fan 212 then seen price on single fan and looked up cost of just buying a same fan off them and came out much cheaper in that combo. I ran 1 a month or more then bought 2nd

How about this tomorrow I will try to get a consistent reading from running a push only with 2nd fan off and then pop the pull back on and run it and compile specs? I have been so consumed with life + work since this build and last time I came on here just crazy.

Now I am in the south and right now our temps are going from near 80 to a day later dropping to low 20s with a couple days of highs @40-50 it is pretty crazy weather and suppose to be changing patterns again tomorrow to be back up high 70's all next week.

Do you want just basic idle temps 1 fan - 2 fan?

Stock 4.2 or OC I am on loose clocks right now from a 4.6 gaming OC


----------



## OdinSon

Loose clocks

Balanced Power Plan

NO OC but OC enabled on Max Power Plan [[[@ 4.4 - 4.6 will heat her up a little more]]] will be 1-2C difference right now it is about 30F outside and my room is super toasty, inside temp is 76 on digital panel and going down now burning up lol

2 media servers running - VPN - well over a dozen browser windows open - HWiNFO64 - Thunderbird open - FB Messenger no telling what else









I dropped my 4.6 OC since I have not been able to game in a couple months due to family health issues and work no need for it anyways performs great on BF1 @ 4.2

It's 79 in my bedroom where my rig is now, the tool for system builder is not working for me on Windows 10 and it only loads 4 items to builder profile also???

I prefer HWiNFO64 anyways


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinSon*
> 
> I found it hard to conceive as well man but the temps I was getting on air vs what my buddy did on AMD WC'd he was in teens but this is AMD
> 
> I used 2 Corsair CPU blocks and noda it was a joke temps being 10+C high on both units and they were not faulty, I checked them hard then Corsair checked upon returns. It would of taken a 240mm block on the CPU just to compete with this EVO.
> 
> After trying the 2 I then became aware out of the 100s and 100s of reviews across newegg and other sites was no fluke because they were reporting mid 30 temps idle on almost all reviews. This was a few months after build I did this.
> 
> To tell you the truth I did not keep track I just did it for the heck of it was eyeing the dual fan 212 then seen price on single fan and looked up cost of just buying a same fan off them and came out much cheaper in that combo. I ran 1 a month or more then bought 2nd
> 
> How about this tomorrow I will try to get a consistent reading from running a push only with 2nd fan off and then pop the pull back on and run it and compile specs? I have been so consumed with life + work since this build and last time I came on here just crazy.
> 
> Now I am in the south and right now our temps are going from near 80 to a day later dropping to low 20s with a couple days of highs @40-50 it is pretty crazy weather and suppose to be changing patterns again tomorrow to be back up high 70's all next week.
> 
> Do you want just basic idle temps 1 fan - 2 fan?
> 
> Stock 4.2 or OC I am on loose clocks right now from a 4.6 gaming OC


It's up to you on what you post and if you have time to do all this. I can understand about life getting in the way of gaming, I haven't played any real games since December and of all things I have a Humble Bundle monthly gaming subscription.....lol. Plus my system has been acting up lately and it looks like I am going to need to RMA my MB, which sucks because I only have my non gaming laptop to fall back on (though shouldn't really be a problem since I haven't played any real games in awhile).

I am simply curious about temp differences and cooling methods as there seems to be some really strong feelings on both ends. From what I have been able to gather watercooling only really offers slightly better temps when really pushing the CPU with normal ambient temps and slightly better cooling when ambient temps are higher than normal. In part I stick with a basic watercooling set up because I like the way it looks with my UV tubing and setup. Though currently it is not much to look at,,,lol.


----------



## hugojps

Let me Join the club

i recently had a cooler master masterliquid lite 120, but i didnt enjoy the noise and i actually had worst temps, so i went back to my old hyper 212 evo, and switched the fan to one of my enermax cluster advance, totally happy with it, below you can see how it is at the moment, i plan in the future either paint the top of the cooler white, or cut a acrylic cover to put on top, aswell as puting another ener

max fan


----------



## Khaled G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hugojps*
> 
> Let me Join the club
> 
> i recently had a cooler master masterliquid lite 120, but i didnt enjoy the noise and i actually had worst temps, so i went back to my old hyper 212 evo, and switched the fan to one of my enermax cluster advance, totally happy with it, below you can see how it is at the moment, i plan in the future either paint the top of the cooler white, or cut a acrylic cover to put on top, aswell as puting another ener
> 
> max fan


I have the same problem. I have Nepton 280L which is LOUD under load and less efficient. I just can't accept the idea of a heavy metal blob hanging from the motherboard.

EDIT: On a side note, I've always wanted to install white lighting like yours' but too lazy to do so.


----------



## Madmaxneo

I still have my Hyper 212 but haven't used it in a while. My cpu is being cooled by a Swiftech H240-X with a Heatkiller IV pro waterblock. My GPU is also watercooled with a H140-X and a Heatkiller IV Pro GPU block. My system is whisper quiet and the temps are amazing. My GPU never goes above 45 deg under full load and my CPU about the mid 60's, under full benchmark load with OC. There are options out there for even better fans (like on the Swiftech prestige units) that are both more efficient and more quiet than my current set up. But I am happy with what I have now. I may be building a dual xeon system this winter and if I do I will be getting another Hyper 212 evo to have on on each CPU.


----------



## kmac20

@hugojps

I just did a build in an s340 elite with a new 212. Keeps my ryzen under 30 at load and at about 72 with an OC on all 8 cores. Bit hot underload but considering it's a non pstate overclock across all 8 cores appears to be normal did white lighting too the thing looks incredible with the tempered glass panel. It seems you just have the regular side panel correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm also still rocking one on my ivy 3570k although that ones fan might die soon as it's only rated for 40k hou s which is about 5 years of 24/7 use and if I haven't crossed that yet I'm about to.

No issue with having a 212 sticking off the CPU. Looks fine to me! And I have an RGB wraith spire that probably would have kept it just as cool with more white lighting but I've just loved my 212s. Hunk of metal? I say it's a sword with many edges









2124lyf3


----------



## Madmaxneo

The 212 is great for budget cooling, and probably the best overall for air cooling. Like I said I will probably use it for my Xeon build here in the future (if it becomes a reality). But I do really love my watercooled system. As mentioned even with a 1ghz OC on my 4930k my cpu hits a max of the mid 60's for temps in benchmark/stress test loads and my GPU goes no higher than the mid 40's. Of course those temps highly depend on my ambient room temps. Sometimes it is a little high in the summer and I can tell by my system temps but in the winter they run much cooler.

Here are a few shots of my system:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> The 212 is great for budget cooling, and probably the best overall for air cooling. Like I said I will probably use it for my Xeon build here in the future (if it becomes a reality). But I do really love my watercooled system. As mentioned even with a 1ghz OC on my 4930k my cpu hits a max of the mid 60's for temps in benchmark/stress test loads and my GPU goes no higher than the mid 40's. Of course those temps highly depend on my ambient room temps. Sometimes it is a little high in the summer and I can tell by my system temps but in the winter they run much cooler.
> 
> Here are a few shots of my system:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is a very nice low budget but quality water cooled system.







I'm betting the GPU block is the single most expensive single use component in system.


----------



## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That is a very nice low budget but quality water cooled system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm betting the GPU block is the single most expensive single use component in system.


This isn't really a budget system though when compared to some watercooled solutions it most definitely is lower cost. The GPU block at about $100 was only $20 more than the CPU block. But the Swiftech H240-X was the most expensive part at about $120 when I purchased it. I am thinking of getting the H320-X2 prestige to replace it though. All these parts were purchased over more than a years worth of time. I wasn't going to water cool my GPU at first but then noticed how much better the temps watercooled GPUs get. The return on watercooled GPUs compared to watercooled CPUs is much greater....

For budget I'd say to stick with the Hyper 212.


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## kmac20

My build was 1300-1400$ that's a lot of money to me and not exactly budget. But I had to put money towards other parts (GPU cpu ram board etc) to make it worth it. If I had spent extra money I didn't have on an AIO or something the build would have been compromised performance wise just to get lower temps and it wouldn't matter how cool my CPU was running if I had to skimp on those other parts. For example if I had bought a 1050Ti instead of a 1060 6GB or some crappy case the cooler wouldn't matter at that point.

So I'm 'chillin' with my 212 till I get money for something better like a custom loop.


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> This isn't really a budget system though when compared to some watercooled solutions it most definitely is lower cost. The GPU block at about $100 was only $20 more than the CPU block. But the Swiftech H240-X was the most expensive part at about $120 when I purchased it. I am thinking of getting the H320-X2 prestige to replace it though. All these parts were purchased over more than a years worth of time. I wasn't going to water cool my GPU at first but then noticed how much better the temps watercooled GPUs get. The return on watercooled GPUs compared to watercooled CPUs is much greater....
> 
> For budget I'd say to stick with the Hyper 212.


So you changed the waterblock that came with H240-X? I know they were not the best. Yeah, 212 are still good little coolers, just not the king they used to be with all the newer competition like H7,DeepCool Gammaxx, etc. 212 are still good coolers


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## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmac20*
> 
> My build was 1300-1400$ that's a lot of money to me and not exactly budget. But I had to put money towards other parts (GPU cpu ram board etc) to make it worth it. If I had spent extra money I didn't have on an AIO or something the build would have been compromised performance wise just to get lower temps and it wouldn't matter how cool my CPU was running if I had to skimp on those other parts. For example if I had bought a 1050Ti instead of a 1060 6GB or some crappy case the cooler wouldn't matter at that point.
> 
> So I'm 'chillin' with my 212 till I get money for something better like a custom loop.


That is a good start to a build. Mine took longer as I gathered parts well over a year because of budget limits. I had another socket 775 I had ran off of for the longest time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> So you changed the waterblock that came with H240-X? I know they were not the best. Yeah, 212 are still good little coolers, just not the king they used to be with all the newer competition like H7,DeepCool Gammaxx, etc. 212 are still good coolers


The original Swiftech waterblock was just about as effective as my Heatkiller IV pro, I think I saw maybe a 3 deg drop in temps. I basically upgraded because the Heatkiller IV pro block is so pretty, but now the new Swiftech Apogee blocks have caught my eye....lol.


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## kmac20

Let me be clear I do NOT make a lot of money. And good god it took me like the better part of half a year to save that up







I just prefer to save it up and get the best stuff at the same time than like, buy stuff over time and then be sadder if something better/cheaper comes out when I get the other parts. So I just saved and saved and saved and then pull the trigger at once, versus buying a part here or there. I mean I did buy some of these parts over the course of a month, but thats a small time frame and I spent about 750$ at microcenter at once last week to finish the build.

Now my goal is a monitor, as I'm still using a 1280x1024 for esports stuff because its 75hz and a 720p tv which is actually very good quality and colors because I use it for a lot of film viewing, and to probably use the EVGA step up program to grab a 1080(Ti?) when the prices drop back down.

I'm most sad that after I bought my 1060 6gb for 300 that ethereum kinda started to die and everyone has started selling off cards. But whatever, if you keep waiting for "something better around the corner" then you never buy or build anything









And I was using this 3570k for 5 years. AND THE LAST YEAR IT HAD DEAD PCIE SOCKETS so I've been using onboard graphics and playing games like GTA SA for the past 12-15 months









So yeah, I need the system to be strong and working first, and the cooler as time goes on, as if I just get something kinda crummy then its not even worth it since my builds usually last me 4+ years. So since this'll probably last me at least 3-5 years, I'll have time to get better cooling as its life goes on.


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## Madmaxneo

I understand going through what you did to save up for your system. The reason I did mine like I did was primarily due to sale prices. I did not pay as much 3 years ago for my MB as it costs now. I was careful in getting the things I did. I had been running on my GTX 750Ti for awhile until I was able to purchase a GTX 980, but that crapped out and EVGA sent me a 1070 as a warranty replacement! I do plan on getting a 1080Ti or the next big graphics card but the wait for a Ti version can be long....lol.


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## kmac20

I feel ya. Thats why I do like evga though, is because they honor their warranties. I still have an 8800GT that has a lifetime warranty and thats a good backup card. I mean it won't play a lot of modern stuff but it plays any source game maxed out at my resolutions or at 720p. I"ve RMA'd it twice, I _might_ have to do it again if my PCIE slots on my older build here fried it, but they'll honor it, and I do also know that if they no longer have 88GTs they'll replace it with a newer card worth the same value (not the old value obviously







) Although I'd almost prefer the 88GT as thats such a solid card I think its even better than some of the 2XX series.

I got a couple things on sale on newegg when I saw the prices (RAM 3200 for the same price as 2666 although it only runs at 3066 anyway), and I live near a microcenter so if i went with the 1600 instead of the 1700 that would've been on sale for 189. I kinda splurged and said why not get the 1700 although I probably shouldn't have. But YOLO I only build a system once every few yeras.

As for GPUs there isn't a lot of options now a days for a fair price, butI just could not wait any longer. Otherwise I probably would have waited on a sale, or even kept using my old video card until I could have gotten a cheaper one. But again, over 1 year with with no video card running onboard intel HD 3000. You jsut reach a point where its like you need to get a new computer ya know? lol.

I do regret the fact that literally the day I went to microcenter my case, the nzxt s340 elite was on sale 20$ than what I got it on newegg, although I would have no way of knowing about that future possiblity. And I reallllly wanted a tempered glass window.

But yeah, this now allows me to save up for other cooling/parts and potentially get a custom loop one day. I'd rather keep air cooling than get an AIO honestly, so if I do water it'll be custom. But I see no need to really waste more than the cost of a 212 on cooling a 1700 when it won't help it overclock much higher at this point.

Again though, you just reach that point where like, you cannot go without a 100% functional PC anymore. Once again: OVER A YEAR with no discrete graphics. That has been hard lol. And to be honest I would have kept using my CPU, its not a bad one by any means for gaming and most of what I do: its a 3570k it overclocks well if it runs a bit hot. But since Intel killed off the 1155 socket, to buy a used/old/refurbished board for almost the same cost as a new x370 chipset? Yeah.

I shoulda got the 1600 though and saved 80$







Coulda bought something else with that. But again, now that I have SOMETHING, now i'm not as _desperate_ when it comes to needing something, and I can wait and bide my time for good sales on lets say an EVGA step up (if things drop in price in the next 2.5 months I'll get a better step up deal for a 1070/1080), or another SSD for cheap when I see one on sale, or pretty much anything exactly how youre gonna do it. But when you're desperate because you have a board with dead PCIE slots on a dead socket that you haven't been able to use at all for over a year....you just kinda gotta bite the bullet.

At least I live within 10 minutes of a microcenter though lol. SO if I ever do want an SSD, or even if I decide for an AIO, I'll just wait for a good sale at microcenter and buy that.

Sorry to derail the thread a bit here. This just kinda explains why I"m using a 212 at the moment, and again its a 1700 so it cant overclock super far anyway, whats a 100$ cooler gonna get me that the 21$ one (had a 10$ rebate) cant at the moment in all honesty.


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## Madmaxneo

@kmac20
To be honest watercooling only helps if the room your PC is in is a little warm and your OC is high. Otherwise the temp differences are really negligible. Watercooling is also normally much quieter but that depends on the watercool system you have. If you did want to go watercooling I would highly recommend a Swiftech AIO, as they are easily configurable and do not take up as much space as a non AIO system.
As far as what is a $100 cooler going to get you that a $21 one you got with a coupon, not much besides more empty pockets...lol. Keep with what you got and save for that better set up. Watercooling is not that important for you when compared to everything else. The Hyper 212 is a rock solid air cooler...


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## kmac20

That's my point, and why I'm in this club two times 5 years apart!









I'm in lower NY, just north of NYC. This place gets boiling hot in the summer: 90-100F with 90%+ humidity. And in the winter it gets freezing. Quite honestly as you astutely pointed out the weather here affects the cooling of my room, and therefore case, way more than whether or not I water cool. Things like a space heater in the winter depending and a space heater in the summer. The only difference is in the winter if its pumping out massive amounts of heat its bearable, because I don't have A/C and wouldn't waste it running something like this.

Then again this new case seems to contain heat very well compared to my old one so that might be playing a large factor as well. I just did this build as I said but yeah. I think this new NZXT s340 is a lot less effective at being essentially an open fire pit in my room as my old NZXT Nemesis Elite with its side panel busted off and no working fans


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmac20*
> 
> That's my point, and why I'm in this club two times 5 years apart!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in lower NY, just north of NYC. This place gets boiling hot in the summer: 90-100F with 90%+ humidity. And in the winter it gets freezing. Quite honestly as you astutely pointed out the weather here affects the cooling of my room, and therefore case, way more than whether or not I water cool. Things like a space heater in the winter depending and a space heater in the summer. The only difference is in the winter if its pumping out massive amounts of heat its bearable, because I don't have A/C and wouldn't waste it running something like this.
> 
> Then again this new case seems to contain heat very well compared to my old one so that might be playing a large factor as well. I just did this build as I said but yeah. I think this new NZXT s340 is a lot less effective at being essentially an open fire pit in my room as my old NZXT Nemesis Elite with its side panel busted off and no working fans


While I have not used the NZXT s340, it looks to have horrible airflow characteristics. It looks nice but appears the only front venting is at bottom of front and that is not near in my opinion.

Like Madmaxneo said, a good air cooler in a case with good airflow cost a fraction of what water cooling will cost .. and air cooling requires much less maintenance too. If you want to discuss it, please start a thread.


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## kmac20

It actually has more openings than that for airflow and is keeping my parts at a comparable temperature to other cases which have been tested (both this one and the other ones giving it about the same temp), but whatever we're getting of topic here. Theres' already an owners club for it and it gets good airflow. Considering my OC'd 1700 is sitting below 30 idle and about 65-70 on full load with a decent overclock I'd say its fine (not even talking about the chipset temps or gpu or anything else)

Again sorry to get off topic. Back to how the 212 is the greatest bang for your buck cooler ever.


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## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmac20*
> 
> It actually has more openings than that for airflow and is keeping my parts at a comparable temperature to other cases which have been tested (both this one and the other ones giving it about the same temp), but whatever we're getting of topic here. Theres' already an owners club for it and it gets good airflow. Considering my OC'd 1700 is sitting below 30 idle and about 65-70 on full load with a decent overclock I'd say its fine (not even talking about the chipset temps or gpu or anything else)
> 
> Again sorry to get off topic. Back to how the 212 is the greatest bang for your buck cooler ever.


It is interesting after all this time that this cooler still rocks the top for efficiency and price. There are air coolers that indicate better temps but the prices are akin to some AIO watercoolers.


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## drufause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Madmaxneo*
> 
> It is interesting after all this time that this cooler still rocks the top for efficiency and price. There are air coolers that indicate better temps but the prices are akin to some AIO watercoolers.


Yeah i wish this was compatible with threadripper


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## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drufause*
> 
> Yeah i wish this was compatible with threadripper


There may be an adapter available somewhere, or one could be in the making. Google it, you never know.


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## kmac20

Threadripper is too large for the heatsink is the problem. It wouldn't really cover enough of the die. It doesn't need to cover 100% but it woudl need to do a lot more than it does now. Threadripper is a huge chip is what the problem is (and I mean it is literally huge)


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## Madmaxneo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmac20*
> 
> Threadripper is too large for the heatsink is the problem. It wouldn't really cover enough of the die. It doesn't need to cover 100% but it woudl need to do a lot more than it does now. Threadripper is a huge chip is what the problem is (and I mean it is literally huge)


This I did not know. Maybe Cooler Master will come out with a new version of the Hyper 212 that will work with Threadripper.


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## doyll

Threadripper base is huge. The IHS is 50.5x68mm .. compared to normal ones that is huge. Just the 4x processor dies (only 2x are real now) take up about 25x50mm. AMD (and Asetek) are supplying mount for Asetek CLCs, but the waterblock base only 53mm in diameter including area with screws for mounting it to bottom of block .. and does not cover even the 4x processor dies. The microfin area of the base is only about 26x31mm. So far the only coolers for Threadripper are from Noctua. The NH-U14S TR4 with base that covers Threadripper IHS vs normal NH-U14S tested on Threadripper running stock settings showed the bigger based U14S TR lowered temps about 9c more than normal based U14S (which covers at least as much of die area as Asetek round base).


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## Reaper28

Has anybody had issues getting it to fit 2011-3? I can't seem to get the screws in the "arm" to go right to the edge to screw it in? I'm not sure why... I'm using the correct standoffs there just isn't enough movement in the screws to actually screw it in. Mobo is a Strix x99-v3. I previously had it on an 1151


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Has anybody had issues getting it to fit 2011-3? I can't seem to get the screws in the "arm" to go right to the edge to screw it in? I'm not sure why... I'm using the correct standoffs there just isn't enough movement in the screws to actually screw it in. Mobo is a Strix x99-v3. I previously had it on an 1151


LGA 1151 have mounting holes on 75mm centers.
LGA 2011 have mounting holes on 80mm centers.


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## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> LGA 1151 have mounting holes on 75mm centers.
> LGA 2011 have mounting holes on 80mm centers.


Don't really care about the mounting size lol I want to know why it won't align correctly even when the screws in the arms are as far as they can go... if I force them I will probably break them. Could the socket possibly be not the exact size or something.. odd thing I found is the socket is actually "backwards" for some reason...


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## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Don't really care about the mounting size lol I want to know why it won't align correctly even when the screws in the arms are as far as they can go... if I force them I will probably break them. Could the socket possibly be not the exact size or something.. odd thing I found is the socket is actually "backwards" for some reason...


Well, if you don't care I guess I shouldn't bother trying to explain what might be your problem.


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## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Well, if you don't care I guess I shouldn't bother trying to explain what might be your problem.


Well the screws are as far as they can go in the arm's unless I force them and possibly break them and the cooler says it supports 2011-3 unless there was a second revision of the cooler


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Well the screws are as far as they can go in the arm's unless I force them and possibly break them and the cooler says it supports 2011-3 unless there was a second revision of the cooler


There have been several 212 mount revisions .. which is why I told you what the spacing measurements are.


----------



## Reaper28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> There have been several 212 mount revisions .. which is why I told you what the spacing measurements are.


Any change in actual model number or anything? Bought it from Canada Computer's who the hell knows how long it's been sitting on the shelf. I've gotta find a ruler or measuring tape somewhere but it seems less than a 5mm difference


----------



## drufause

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper28*
> 
> Any change in actual model number or anything? Bought it from Canada Computer's who the hell knows how long it's been sitting on the shelf. I've gotta find a ruler or measuring tape somewhere but it seems less than a 5mm difference


Cooler Master SKU 601015621-GP is a bracket and mount that fits 2011
http://www.cmstore-usa.com/hyper-212-plus-evo-accessories-kit/

google fu


----------



## AeroZ

Hi! Anybody using 212 EVO or 212x with Enermax Ostrog Lite case?


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AeroZ*
> 
> Hi! Anybody using 212 EVO or 212x with Enermax Ostrog Lite case?


Enermax Ostrog Lite has 152mm CPU clearance. Both 212 coolers are 159mm tall .. 7mm taller than Ostrog Lite says there is CPU clearance. Start a thread and I'll try and help you find a cooler that will fit.


----------



## AeroZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> Enermax Ostrog Lite has 152mm CPU clearance. Both 212 coolers are 159mm tall .. 7mm taller than Ostrog Lite says there is CPU clearance. Start a thread and I'll try and help you find a cooler that will fit.


Yes, I saw that info on their page. The problem is that their manual states 162mm and I've found a few youtube videos with 212's in that case.
I asked here because I wanted someone with a first hand experience with that case and cooler combo.


----------

