# Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions



## Lutro0

_Welcome to Lutro0's Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions_
This FAQ is always being updated and is a work in progress, if there is something that you want to see on here please feel free to comment and I will add it.

To start off I get asked where to buy all of the connectors and supplies in the same place. There is a few stores that I know that carry EVERYTHING in one place:
www.e22.biz
www.moddiy.com
www.performance-pcs.com
mod-one
MAINFrame Customs, LLC
MDPC-X
Pexon PCs

*How Much Sleeving Should I Buy For My Sleeving Job?*
The best and really only way is to measure them yourself or look at the datasheet for your psu. This can be found on the website for the manufacturer of your psu or a review site as well.

Now you just have to look at the cable length and then add them up....

Let’s say you have a 24pin cable and the datasheet says it is 520mm long, so:
_24x520mm = 12,480 millimeters = 12.48 meters_

So for just the 24pin you will need 12.48 meters of sleeving.

And then you continue to do the same for the eps, sata, molex, and pcie cables. (not to mention any other things/cables you want sleeved)
Once you have everything added up you will want to add 10-20% more sleeve to it just in case you mess something up or perhaps forget about something.


*How Much Heatshrink Should I Buy For My Sleeving Job?*
So you add up all of the wires of your cables/things that you will be sleeving.
_I.E. a 24pin cable has 24 pins. So you will need 48 cuts of HS for just the 24pin._

I always add 50-100 more pieces no matter what so you don’t have to settle for a messed up look, even more so if this is your first time sleeving.
_If you are using tubing that is not pre-cut_, I believe the rule of thumb is to find out how much 20% of your total order of sleeving will be and order that amount in HS.
_But again I would choose to try and do the math_, for example is you are using 15mm cuts of HS, you would need 30mm of hs _per wire_, and if you are using 20mm cuts you would need 40mm per wire and so on. Remember to add the equivalent of 50 to 100 extra pieces so you can get a little extra.

If you are using heatshrink for the heatshrinkless method for PET type sleeve then a 4ft length can provide up to 100 or more usable pieces to use that method. They dont need to be even or perfect as you are cutting them up anyhow.


*What Color Scheme Should I Use For My Sleeving?*
- What colors should I pick
This question is also asked all the time, but as with anything having to do with a creative item its very much personal preference.

To break this down I will explain a rule of thumb that I have been following for a while now when I get asked this question, again its not the end all for color choosing but if you follow it - you will have a very well thought out color scheme that will not look ugly.

There is 3 main color styles and one exception.

*1. Single Color Schemes* - This will be the most common as most premade extensions can be found in one color. The most common being black and white - but there is tons of other choices as well. The main downfall with a single color choice is that they seem lacking and while they do blend most custom sleevers tend to lean towards the next two methods as it shows the craftsmanship that goes into sleeving in the first place.

*2. Double Color Schemes* - This is one of the most prominent color styling and is implemented most of the time in a simple manner:
a. Base color - The base color for the double color scheme will always be the main color of the case or a main color of internal parts.
b. Accent color - The accent color for a double color scheme will be the "popping" color or the color that is sparse in the case but the modder wants to make it pop and bring attention to it. When done tastefully this will bring out the latent colors in your case and give a flow feeling.

*3. Triple Color Schemes* - This is one of the most beautiful color schemes in my opinion but this depends on if your case has the colors for it, but when the triple color scheme is done right it will make your cables and system look perfect.
a. Base Color - The base color for the triple color scheme will always be the main color of the case or a main color of internal parts.
b. Mid Color - The mid color for the triple color scheme will be the in between color that is not too little to be a accent and not to much to be a base. Great Mid colors are grays and whites.
c. Accent Color - The accent color for a triple color scheme will be the "popping" color or the color that is sparse in the case but the modder wants to make it pop and bring attention to it. When done tastefully this will bring out the latent colors in your case and give a flow feeling.

*4. The Exception to the rule: Quad Color Schemes* - This scheme in my opinion is cluttered however I have seen it implemented with some success. However be warned that it is hard to match the rest of your cables should you choose this scheme.

The quad color scheme is just like the triple color scheme with the exception that it either has two mid colors or two accent colors. The reason this is not a good idea is that you only have 12 rows of cables on a 24pin and to get a clean and defined pattern takes alot of work and even then does not look as clean as a triple color.

However do not let me deter you from being creative as depending on the theme and mod it can be pulled off.

*Things to think about* - Some things to ponder upon when thinking of your color schemes should be what you plan to do with your 8pins and 6pins as well as your 4pin cables and how your color scheme will affect them and the final result.

Another thing to think about is that you don't necessarily need to match the exact color in your case for your sleeving to blend, as once you take a step back the colors will start to match under low lighting and sometimes will even bring attraction to your cables and hard work.

And on a final note, If you plan to flood your case with a colored light - you may want to think about sticking to a black and white theme or a black and gray and even a single color. The reason for this is once you flood your beautiful sleeving with colored light it discolors it and even turns it into a redscale or bluescale and so on depending on what light you are flooding it with. My recommendation to those that are taking the time to match everything and sleeve it in a perfectly color coded fashion is that they should stick to a humble glow of pure white inside of their case, this way all of the color and work in all of its glory is displayed the way it was meant to be.


*What Different Kinds Of Sleeveing Is There & Whats Worth Buying?*
- What is all out there and what is the best?
This question is asked all the time, but it is a very subjective one. The reason for that being that everyone has a personal choice. So while I cant say which ones is the best I will say which ones is the most popular, and we will start with that one right off the bat.

*Lutro0 Customs Teleios Sleeving* LC Teleios Sleeving is the product of tons of research into every single kind of sleeve that is available. It takes the very best attributes of those sleeves and puts it all into a 4mm and 8mm sata sized sleeve. LC Teleios is a newcomer into the sleeving world, however every single review that it has gotten has the reviewer ranking it above all of the rest.

It was made to be easy to use, uses vibrant colors that match your motherboard components, is woven in such a way to bring the densest and softest feeling sleeve out there, and it can cover almost any color of wire.

Newcomers to the sleeving scene that have used Teleios have produced awesome works of sleeve art without ever having sleeved before as the Teleios sleeve is made to be easily used in both heatshrinkless style and heatshrink style.

The color choices for Teleios are currently 11 vibrant solid colors and 2 unique mixed colors called the Fusion Line.

The sata sizes come in 11 vibrant colors and is made to have a very snug fit on any Sata Data cable. Its size of 8mm makes it a little more difficult to get onto the Sata Data cables, however once its on it covers almost all colors of cables and it grips tight to the cable to give you an unbelievably clean look.

Teleios can be found in the USA and in the UK at E22.Biz. Please note, however both sleeve shops sell worldwide with cheaper pricing then most shops out there. Both shops also sell basically everything you could ever need for your sleeving job with the best prices out there right now.

*MDPC* – MDPC Sleeve and products has been considered the quality choice in the sleeving industry and as such they have lived up to that name over and over. The owner Nils stops at nothing to hold his products to the highest standard and will never relent in upholding that standard.

The sleeving itself is the perfect size for single sleeving and has an awesome coverage of the wire, however if you are doing white sleeving you will need to prep your cables which will be covered later on in the FAQ.

The color choices are right on par with what you would want in your system. Also the Heat Shrink color choices are one of a kind and will outdo anything out there at this time.

Please remember that the only flaw with MDPC is that to get great coverage you need to stretch it VERY tight and most sleevers that start out find this to be difficult.

But I will stop blabbing and let you look for yourself, You can check out MDPC on their website located here: http://www.mdpc-x.com/

*PARACORD* - Paracord sleeve is a very popular sleeving choice for those that are on a budget, however that does come at a price. Sleeving with paracord is just like sleeving with shoelaces and the material is nylon, and feels a bit like rope. Now if it is stretched right it will not feel floppy and work just fine, but you will have to take some extra time with it to make sure you get a good result.

The color choices of paracord are super abundant and you can find any color you want in at least a few shades.

Paracord comes in a few different sizes but the most popular sizes for sleeving will be 450lb paracord and 550lb paracord – the difference between the two is some extra strands in the middle of it (the core) and the 550lb being very slightly bigger. Both will work just fine for sleeving.

For finding paracord you simply need to do a search for “450 Paracord” or “550 Paracord”

Please caution that alot of paracord out there is cheaply made and looks like crud, so make sure to buy from a well known distributor.

It can also be found in an coreless style, but only one shop sells it.

*CEANCUT (techflex cleancut)* – Techflex CleanCut sleeving has become a popular choice for sleeving because of its full coverage and its super cheap price from an E-Bay distributor, FurryLetters.

The main downfall of CleanCut is that it only comes in 2 colors, black and gray. The sleeving itself is a plastic type and is very flexible and works perfect for single sleeving.

Prices vary from seller to seller but like stated earlier most buy it from FurryLetters on E-Bay, The main link to his shop can be found here: http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS

*Mod/Smart Kobra HD (Primochill)* – Kobra HD is marketed as a high density plastic sleeving in different sizes, and to those terms it is exactly that. However the size used for single sleeving (1/8th) is just a bit too small and gets caught on the molex pins of a wire, which means you have to use tape or an tool to get it on the wire without it snagging on it. Another thing to be aware is the high cost, some places go up to .60 a foot. Kobra is indeed a decent alternative if you have alot of time and patience on your hands, but be aware that the coverage gets spotty on larger wires and your sleeving experience will be slow due to the material.

You can buy Kobra HD sleeving at both Frozencpu.com and Performance-pcs.com

*Techflex Flexo PET* - http://www.techflex.com - Flexo comes in almost as many colors as paracord but this sleeving is mainly used in industrial environments to bundle large bundles of sleeve and has a terrible coverage so its best not used for sleeving - however its a cheap choice and was one of the first sleeves to be used to sleeve with.

You can buy Flexo sleeving at Frozencpu.com

*Bitspower* - The Bitspower sleeving is still under review, but the initial use with it shows allot of the same flaws as Kobra HD when it comes to size, but the coverage of Bitspower sleeving is super dense which is the highlight of the sleeve. However, its size makes it hard to sleeve with and the over denseness of the sleeve makes the sleeve not stretch very much. This is important in a sleeve as you want it to conform to the wire. However, even with these downfalls its a viable sleeving material just not the first I would grab for.

Bitspower also makes a heatshrink tubing which has a nice thin wall, however the shrink has a low melting point which disappointingly leaves it kinda useless as you always want to melt the sleeve underneath a little and the shrink is very prone to melt and deform before the sleeve will melt before.

You can purchase Bitspower Sleeving at major online shops including Performance-pcs.com

*Sleeve-Modding.com* - SM sells a sleeve that is just like MDPC but in different colors, the diameter is a but smaller but the quality is just the same, so I will not explain that more. The owner is also a great guy and does his best to provide top notch products. 

They also sell heatshrink but right now the heatshrink is sub par and they are in the process of getting new stock.

*Darkside Sleeving* - http://www.dazmode.com/ is our Canadian modding shop to the north. The owner is a great person and does his best to strive to innovation and best products he can. his sleeve comes in many different colors and unique styles - he also offered a heatshrink that while its not the best will get most jobs done easily.

*PC Modz Depot* - http://pcmzd.com/pcmzd-cable-sleeving/pcmzd-cable-sleeving.html - PCMZD is a great sleeve, everything about it is nice minus the coloring - the colors are an see through on some of them and just dont match some systems. Dont take my word for it give them a try the owner is an awesome fellow is ready to help out anyone he can. They also carry heatshrink but I have not at this time had a chance to try it.

*ShakMods* - http://shakmods.com/ - ShakMods sleeving is just like PCMZD in some different colors, the weave is the same and the same issues are with it. However Shak provides different heatshrink that is medium level heat shrink and will work for for your project. Also Shakmods has come out with a line of matte sleeving that is unique in the fact that the colors are slightly faded to give a eggshell finish. Many people are undecided on if they like the look or not as most people choose to have vibrant colors instead.

Some quick mentions for sleeve that I have not fully tested are as follows:

*Big City Sleeving* - https://www.facebook.com/groups/299207060157345/ - BCS is Otis Fats I have not gotten my hands on any so I have not done a review yet but its worth looking into.

*FTW Sleeve Rignoobies Brand* - http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=20995037 - This sleeve is made by the popular Rig Noobies and is an up and coming company. Give them a chance you might be surprised.

*Gosu Modz* - http://www.gosumodz.com/ - This is a new company overseas and they have come out with a sleeve series called their PHALANX SLEEVES. I have not had the chance to use their sleeve yet but I have some on the way to do a review on it. It comes in many colors and looks to be promising!

*ModDiy* - http://www.moddiy.com/ - ModDiy has been around for a while and are a great shop for just about anything sleeving and more. They carry a line called Deluxe High Density Weave and it comes in vaired sizes from 2mm to 16mm. They also carry the super hard to find connectors that honestly cannot be found anywhere else - however they know it and charge allot for them all the way up to over 2 dollars and the shipping is high at times. But they are a great shop for all your needs.

*CableMod* - http://www.CableMod.com - CableMod is a supplier of OEM Cable sets for allot of different power supplies - at this point they dont sell sleeving by itself but they use a paracord like fabric that seems to work well. I have heard mixed results from the people who buy them but I have not had the chance to review one but I have one on its way so I will update this. Right now they are indeed the cheapest place to buy OEM sets in multiple colors for your psus so it wont be too bad to give them a try.

*Ultimate Personal Computers* - http://ultimatepersonalcomputers.com/ - UPC is a custom sleeving source as well as a sleeving supply shop - their main sleeving called Ageis Sleeving is new to the market and so far the comments are positive. I have not has any in my hands yet but when I do, I will update this section.

*Other Sleevings* – There is a few other types of sleeving out there at this moment, but I have not added the due to their popularity not being very high and the price or quality being too high or too low. I will be adding the other types as I find some time.


*What Kind And Size Of Heatshrink Do I Use?*
– What kind of heatshrink and size should I buy?
This is another question that gets asked all the time. There is a few things you need to know about heatshrink to make a good choice.

1.Shrink Ratio – what this means is how many times smaller the shrink will get once it has been heated from its original size. The smaller the shrink gets the tighter the hold will be on the shrink and wire. So, the lowest shrink ratio you will want is 3:1, but the best ratio you cant get is 4:1.

2.Wall Thickness and Glue or no Glue. – Wall thickness refers to the actual thickness of the actual heatshrink it self or the actual materials size, again smaller is better with this as any added thickness to the shrink will make the shrunken diameter larger. So thin walled will be your best bet. I have also seen and used glue lined shrink myself, and although it seems like a great idea, it becomes messy and almost always has a thick wall on it, so right away it goes outside the parameters of what a good heatshrink should be.

3.Precut or not Precut – This is a personal choice but most pro sleevers will tell you right off the bat – get the precut and save yourself some time and allow yourself to get a clean look. It is not really cheaper to cut it yourself when you factor in how many time you may need to fix your sleeving. If you need some longer lengths then buy a small amount of it for the special parts.

4.Shrink Size and Length – For the most part the best diameter for shrink is either 3/16 in or ¼ in, this will allow you to get your shrink over most sleeve and wire combos if you have the right ratio. For length you will want to use what most pro sleevers use and that is 15mm, if you buy the precut most places already have it cut at that size.

With that all being said, what Heatshrink do I recommend?

I suggest you look at MDPC Heatshrink as it has everything we listed above as well as high melting point, what I mean by that is it will take a great amount of heat before the actual shrink melts. Also it comes in many color choices. It can be found at: http://www.mdpc-x.com/

Otherwise, I would suggest getting this ¼ in 3:1 thinwalled heatshrink

It has a cheap price and is a great product for heatshrinless methods. However if used right it may provide a great alternative for heatshrink style, it just depends on the wire you use.


*What Sleeving Tools Will I Need For My Sleeving Job?*
– What Sleeving Tools Will I Need For A Clean Looking Sleeving Job?
You will need at least some basic tools as well as some advanced depending on how much sleeving you are going to be doing. Now you can use staples and such, but I highly discourage this as it can be more of a hassle than it needs to be if you just buy the right tools and do it right the first time.

I have made an in-depth purchasing guide as well as a video break down of each tool and why it is important.

To view the video guide, please look at my Youtube Video on the subject located here - Please note that since this video I have found better tools for these jobs and I have updated them in the list but the basics are the same.: 





Also here is the full purchase list of tools:
*Basic "Must Have" Sleeving Tools* 

*Scissors*: Can be found most places - look for Precision Scissors.

*Flush Side Cutter*:


*Round Molex Remover*:


*Molex Extraction Tool. Part Number : 11-03-0044*:
But can be found all over the web such as Frozencpu and Performance-PCs

Lutro0 Customs has designed a custom Molex Extraction Tool that is easier to use, stronger, and works on every single PSU with ease!

*Masking tape*: Found at most stores this is used for numbering your cables if you use that method or if you dont buy a paracord threading tool to cover the pins when using Small diameter sleeving or paracord so it doesnt snag. Please note that many people do not like to use masking tape as you still damage the paracord even when you mask it right, and masking takes a very long time.

*Lighter*: Found at most stores. I prefer a bic lighter because its easier to control the flame and its not too hot. A torch lighter sounds like a good idea but it will insta melt the heatshrink.

*Heatgun*: There is too many options to list, try Amazon, Ebay, or Froogle.

This heatgun may have some bad reviews but its been one that I have used for a long time with no issues and at the time of posting this it was 15 bucks.

You can find a heatgun anywhere but looks for a dual speed and one that comes with a reducer as small as you can get it - this will help you when you need to pin point your sleeving.

I have seen people have luck with embossing guns with reducers as well.

*Paracord Tool Threader*: - This is only if you are using paracord, basically you use this or the masking tape but this tool will make your sleeving faster and frustrations less.

*Exacto Hobby Knife* : Found at most stores - this is used to open most pins that the original molex tool and the round pin extractor dont - DO NOT GET SUCKED INTO THE ALL IN ONE KITS - as they all are poorly made. Get the right tools the first time and dont waste money.

*LC Sleeving Tool*:
Can be found in many shops

This is only needed if you are going to do heatshrink style sleeving as it helps mark the perfect spot for the sleeve so you get straight heatshrinks the whole time.
*Optional / Advanced Sleeving Tools* 
*Molex Crimper:*
Overlap - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277 : This is the Hans Long Crimper and is found in most places that sell modding supplies - I suggest against getting this even though the price is tempting. But I go through this further later in the FAQ.

Bite - LC Crimper : This crimper is hand milled to perfection by me and tested and is the cheapest/best crimper before having to shell out 200 or more to get the original molex crimper. It is milled by hand to accept most guages of wire and even 16awg perfectly.

http://http://www.mdpc-x.com/ : This crimper also has the bite and will produce perfect crimps. The only issue I have heard with it is having poor performance on 16awg type wires and sometimes can crush the smaller fan terminals. But this is indeed a good crimper.

I will go over crimpers more later in the FAQ.

*Self Adjusting Wire Stripper*:
Don't let the price get you discouraged - look at the link and check the examples and you will see why its important to have this tool. It is the cheapest for its design anything below rips the wire and anything higher does the same.

*Heat Shrink Cutting Jig* : It is self explanatory, and can be made out of anything, just make sure your length is set to what you want.

*Big Sharp Knife* : Found in most stores and this is for the jig only.

*Soldering Kit* : Found in most hobby stores.




*How Do I Sleeve?*

To start this off Nils from MDPC has put together a nice visual guide on his method of sleeving that works well with MDPC & LC Teleios Sleeve. This guide was used with permission from the maker himself; please do not repost this without first getting permission.





And the second guide will be a link to my video sleeving guides, I am not posting them here as it is by far way too much information to repost, and you can keep up to date by following the thread itself. To see the guides please follow this link: https://www.overclock.net/t/1122053/lutro0-customs-sleeving-tool-tutorials


*What Voltages Are The Different Wires On A PSU?*
For the most part all power supplies follow a basic standard for the motherboard pin side, which means for a 24 pin that connects to the motherboard the pin out and voltages will always be the same. What does differ however is in what order they come out of the power supply itself as that is totally up to the manufacture on the layout. For the PSU side pin outs you will need to look on the makers website or request it from them by email or other means. Otherwise I have shown below a few basic pin out and voltages for a few different cables.




*What Connector Types Do I Need And Where Do I Buy Them?*
– I get this question all the time. Lutro0, where do you buy all of your connectors and what connector do I need for this or that? Well, I hope to answer all of that! I will list the most common connector names and post a link where you can purchase them.


24pin - Molex Power Connectors


8pin - Molex EPS Power Connectors


4pin - Molex EPS Power Connectors


6pin - Molex PCIE Power Connectors


8pin - Molex PCIE Power Connector


Sata - Power Connectors


4pin - Molex Power



*What Is The Difference Between Modular, Semi-Modular, And Non-Modular/
– Modular, Semi-Modular or Non-Modular?
In this section I hope to break down the basics for choosing a PSU to sleeve and the advantages and disadvantages of each type.

1. Fully Modular - A fully modular PSU is a PSU that has fully disconnecting cables. These are the number one choice for sleevers and modders as it makes cleaning up a computer easy and sleeving effective and easier.

Advantages: The advantages to this are clear - each cable can be removed and then sleeved and only the cables you want can be used. One thing to keep in mind is that the pinout (cable arrangement) is set by the PSU maker on the PSU side, what I mean by this is that all PSU makers use their own pin out on the end that plugs into the powersupply. For this reason cables cannot be switched from PSU to PSU unless it is the same PSU or PSU model family. (and sometimes even this is not true) Each PSU maker lists or will make available the pinout if asked or looked on their site. Also using a modular PSU gives you the ability to easily make custom length cables by making your own.

Disadvantages: You have an OEM pin out and most likely split wires that will need to be made into a Y split to get rid of double wires. Also you have two ends that will need to be cleaned up and sleeved perfect so attention to detail is a must.

2. Semi-Modular - A Semi-Modular PSU is a PSU that has a both hardwired and cables that can be removed. Typically the hardwired cables are the 24pin and an 8pin eps.

Advantages: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps. It also still allows you to remove the cables you will not use.

Disadvantages: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result.

3. Non-Modular - A Non-Modular PSU is a PSU that has hardwired cables.

Advantages: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps.

Disadvantages: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result. Hard to work with huge bundle of wires and hard to route and clean up.

There is only two ways to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU.


How To Sleeve A Non-Modular And Semi-Modular PSU.
– How to sleeve a PSU that has hardwired cables?

It is relatively simple to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU. You only have two options to pick from:

a. Keep your warranty - You will sleeve and shrink the cables up to the area where the cables enter the PSU and then use a larger piece of heatshrink to sleeve them all together. (a zip tie under the heatshrink is typically used to hold them in place) This allows you to keep your warranty (contact psu maker to make sure) but looks kinda ugly if you can see your powersupply through your window. Super glue is also helpfull for keeping the bunch in place.

b. Kill your warranty - In this method you simply remove the cover to your PSU and then sleeve the cables up inside of the PSU so that the cables are heatshrunk inside of the psu cover and then using a zip tie on the inside of the PSu to secure them. Brush on super glue under the heatshrink and under the sleeve will keep them in place better, Also I suggest using adhesive lined heatshrink for use inside of the PSU.

This method is by far the best and will look professional and clean. Please be careful when working inside of a PSU as the capacitors will hold enough of a charge to shock the crud out of you. Also please note that you may need to widen the hole where the cables enter as once you sleeve them the bundle will be thicker. I suggest taping off the psu with painters tape and then cutting out the hole to keep shavings out of the PSU.

At this point you can also choose to mod the PSU Fan in the PSU with a different one. Their will be a proprioatry connector that can be removed and soldered back onto the fan. Please make sure to use a fan that is the same cfm or better for the psu and make sure that the fan works before putting it all back together so your PSU does not overheat.

You can terminate cables you will not use by unsoldering them inside the psu or simply cutting them and sealing the ends - but please only attempt this if you are sure of what you are doing.


Which Crimpers & Pins Do I Buy?
– What crimpers & pins to use and the reason why they are chosen.

To understand the following information you need to understand that not all crimpers are created equally. Molex has a chart in which it defines what is a good crimp and what is a bad crimp in its own standards - but from an experienced sleevers point of view there is only one good crimp, and that is the bite crimp.

The bite crimp is defined by crimping the end pins or the stress relief into the insulation essentially locking in the terminal a little more. Furthermore the definition of a good crimp is the tool being able to crimp the inside wings well, which is where the terminal will make most of its contact with the wire allowing flow of electricity.

Here is a small sample of tools that I have used a ton of time testing, this is just a small portion as there is no need to show you all of them. You will notice the markings on the tools, this will be used to reference the picture of the crimps that they can produce. The marks go from 0 - 7 marks. Most notably the 0 mark is the MDPC Crimping tool, and the 2 mark with LC before it is the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper.



So you see there is a ton of options when it comes to crimpers, the prices range from $20 - $80.

Now lets take a look at the crimps they can produce, please match them up to the marks on the crimper to the marks on the wire.



You will notice many flaws in the wires and that the wire gauge itself is a custom made 16AWG wire

To explain the crimps we will go down the list starting with the 0 mark.

0 Mark: This crimp is right on the mark. You will notice that it has a slight bite and does not crush the wire and the inner wings have a good hold on the actual metal of the wire - this is an example of a good crimp.
1 Mark: This is an example of a crushed stress relief section as well as its over lapping making it very sub par.
2 Mark: This crimp is also right on the mark. Everything you want from a clean crimp is shown on that crimp - this is also the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper.
3 Mark: This crimp not only has bitten so much into the connector but it has actually broke into the insulation and created a bump in the insulation. While this is a strong crimp it creates a mess to work with and degrades the quality and durability of the crimp. It has also crushed the wire wings weakening the overall crimp.
4 Mark: This is a pure example of a bad crimp - over lapping wings and a crushed wire insulation.
5 Mark: This crimp has so much force that it forced the stress relief wings out of order and totally crushed the insulation weakening the crimp point - I even have to straighten out the pin as it made a curve in it.
6 Mark: This is another example of an overlapping crimp with crushed insulation.
7 Mark: This crimper has so much force that it bulged the wire and the inside wire back while crushing the top.

So from these photos we can determine that Mark 0 and Mark 2 Have the best crimps!

But this is no surprise but I will let the photos explain.



These crimpers are both the same models but with different handles. I have contacted the company who makes them and asked them to make the crimp pressure just a tad bit less so that a thicker wire gauge could be used ( this is due to my custom line of sleeving wire that will improve cable management and training )and the slight variation can be seen in a side by side comparison of the crimps.

I will also say that if you live closer to Germany please consider getting the tool from MDPC-X, The store is owned by a wonderful man names Nils - he will go the extra mile to help you get the supplies you need.



You will see that the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper hugs and bites the wire just a tiny bit gentler. However in all honesty the difference is minimal and both tools would would all the well on the custom wire. However the price difference is what makes the LC ATX Ratchet Crimper all that much more sweeter.

So now that you see what the two available tools can do (the Han Long [HT-225D] tool is the same at both Performance PCs and FrozenCPU) lets talk a moment about pins before we continue.

Most terminals that are sold are non-OEM terminals , this means that a manufacturer other then Molex has made them and sold them to our online shops. The problem with this is that they decided it would be a good idea to make the wings that hold the wire smaller and then sell the longer winged pins as "double wire" pins.

Any experienced sleever will tell you that these terminals "shorter wings" are garbage as they don't allow the proper bite into the wire to hold and make a strong crimp.

So what we can take away from this is that only the original Molex brand terminals should be bought even if you are just using the hans long [HT-225D] crimper.

These are original Molex terminals . You will note that they have longer wings on them. These are important as it allows the crimp to have extra hold and contact to the wire.

Most non-molex or non-oem terminals have very short wings and are never recommended for your crimp jobs. 


Here is the part number for those pins -a reel is a string of pins while a bag is pins not on a reel- :
Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female terminals - 39-00-0038 (Reel)
Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female terminals - 39-00-0039 (Bag)
Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male terminals - 39-00-0040 (Reel) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male terminals - 39-00-0041 (Bag) (These are the pins used for making an extension)


From top to bottom: (MDPC Crimper, Hans Long Crimper [HT-225D], SN-28B Crimper) 

And finally, here is a list of crimpers that should be considered for purchase:

Han Long [HT-225D] For a couple crimps or a small project (not recommended for a full set because of the way it crimps the "wings") : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277
Note: these can be found at many different mod shops including, FrozenCPU, Performance-pcs and others.

SN-28B Crimper This crimper has potential, but even at the lowest setting crushes the wire too much for my personal liking. However there is different models (according to the color of the handle and apparently the date it was made) that seem to work better then the others with some adjustment to the "teeth". With those flaws and never knowing if you will get a tool that can be fixed to work I find IMO that this is a poor option although it does have potential to be a good crimper.

MDPC Crimper A great crimper at a higher price (this will produce perfect crimps all the time that will hold, also it comes with pins): http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimpzange.htm
Note: This is the german site and it is sold on the international site but his shop times are limited

Lutro0 Customs Crimper The same as the MDPC Crimper but at a lower price and is USA based.

Molex Brand Ratchet Crimper This may be the best tool as its made by Molex, but the price is way out of range for most people: http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=97M9440&CMP=AFC-GB100000001


Can You Sleeve Sata Data Cables With Paracord?
– Is there a size of paracord that can be used to sleeve sata data cables?

Sadly the answer is no. Paracord generally tops out at 650, there may be some made that's larger but I have not ever found any. But not all is lost...

Bitfenix makes sleeved sata cables that will match as they are using a soft nylon type material that looks like paracord.

Here is an example:



What Are The Easiest Powersupplies to Sleeve?
– Lutro0 what powersupply model are the easiest to sleeve?

I cannot count how many times I get asked that question. Sadly there is not a perfect answer to it as the powersupply list is constantly changing. However there is two series and 1 or two powersupplies that I can most truly recommend.

But before I do that let me explain what constitutes a bad powersupply and why a powersupply would be better than others (in terms of sleeving).

When you sleeve a powersupply you want a fully modular powersupply, the reason for this is you can custom make your own cables and not have to open the powersupply and really make the cables fit into your case exactly how you want. This means not having a ton of extra cable behind your case to mess with and only using the number of cables you need to use.

Why then you ask would any fully modular powersupply be better then another. Two words: Double wires. Anyone who has had to sleeve a double wire will tell you that it is the most aggravating thing about sleeving. That’s because you have (should) splice the wire somewhere where it will be hidden so that you only have single wires going into the connector. Now some may try to stuff a double wire into those connectors but this is IMO poor form. When you stuff two wires into the connector beside otherwise single wires the fat double wire look out of place and you lose that symmetrical look of everything being uniform and looking neat. Besides the fact that it’s a pain in the butt to get the pin to latch and more than likely it will look bunched. Also when you eliminate the double wires you also get rid of the strange 8pin eps/24pin combos that some powersuppply makers use.

So the stuff that makes up a good powersupply to sleeve or in other words easier is a fully modular powersupply that does not have double wires (or very few) and has a relatively easy pinout and little to no caps/ferrite beads.

You may have heard of the term 1 to 1 or 1-1 powersupply. What this implies is that the cables go from one pin to another with no double on the other side. This is also a term for a extension-like pinout.

So whats a pin out? A pin out in powersupply terms is how the PSU maker electricaly designed the layout for the pins on the powersupply. PSU makers have proprietary set ups on the powersupply side and this is a reason we see all sorts of strange double wires, connectors and the sorts – because it is totally up to the PSU maker to make this how they think it should be and how it can make the PSU more stable. However, on the motherboard side it is always the same as they have to follow the 24pin ATX version 2.0 or the 20pin ATX Version 1.0 standard which is a 24/20 pin layout with the voltages and sense wires always the same. (While we are on this you may notice some powersupplies only using 23 pins with one missing, this is fine as it’s still the ATX standard and is not needed and a little Protip is that most of the time including a fake wire for this spot will clean it up and give you a full 24pin once again.)

Caps and ferrite beads are another huge pain for sleevers. PSU makers add these to keep in spec and to clean up and stabilize the power output from the PSU, in most cases with a good PSU these can be removed with little to no effect. But the chance that they will in extreme settings is always there. (Protip: Ferrite beads can be removed by either breaking them with a hammer or simply sliding them off)

Now that you have an understanding of what makes a good/easy powersupply to sleeve lets break down a few suggestions and why I recommend them.

Corsair AX 1200 / 1200I -
Now I know you are already asking why not the rest of the AX series from Corsair. The reason for this is the Corsair AX line is basically a Seasonic PSU / One or two other makers rebranded for Corsair. This means they will follow the 20/10 or the likes pinout with mucho double wires. This means a advanced sleeving time with double wires.

However the AX1200 / 1200I is made differently, the 1200/1200i uses a 10/14 to 24pin as well as the rest of the cables being single with the exception of maybe a few. This makes it desirable for easy sleeving. Also to boot the unit itself is of good review and is otherwise pure black and ready for any theme with a covering of a custom sticker.

Corsair RM Series

The Corsair RM series has few double wires on the 24pin and no caps on anything. This to date looks to be one of the easiest Powersupplies to sleeve on the market. Plus the prices for these units are fair.


Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid Series ( 1050W, 1300W, 850W) –
Once again these powersupplies are of good review and the color scheme is not intrusive for modding and the cables are a 24pin to 24pin as well as the others. Now you will notice some of the cables use the ribbon configuration, this is not a problem as you can simply tear apart the cables once you have started a small cut.

Silverstone Strider Gold, Plus, and Evolution Series –
I could list all of them but there are many and there is a few in there that still have double wires, so I say this disclaimer that you look up photos of the powersupply and look at the pinout to get a positive double check that yours does not have double wires.

Typically if the Strider PSU you pick out has a few blue connector sockets on it, then it does not have double wires or very little.

Most of the Silverstone Striders have positive reviews and for those of us that have been sleeving for a while have done a few of these and are the staple for powersupplies that you intend to sleeve for a mod.
With the exception of the blue sockets this PSU is great for any color scheme when sleeving. They all use a 24pin to 24pin.

Something to keep a note of when sleeving these powersupplies is that the pcie lanes have capacitors on them which Silverstone added to reduce electrical noise and to keep the PSU in spec. However you can cut them off with neglitable effect to the power. Please keep in mind that you should make sure that you have some headroom if you intend to cut off the caps and plan on overclocking. What I mean by this is if your system will draw at max 850w then you should consider getting a model that is 150w or more, this way you are not pushing the PSU to its limits thus increasing the chances of your now cappless PSU from effecting your overclock. However I must add that I have been cutting off these caps for a long time now and have NEVER had a client with an overclock issue and I have had many hardcore overclockers buy cables from me or custom units.

To conclude there is other powersupplies that are out there that might be suitable for sleeving but these are what I have been recommending for a while now and new and experienced sleevers have been very happy with these choices. As more powersupplies come onto the market I will be adding them.


Sleeving Groups?
– Is there any sites dedicated to sleeving?
There is many that can be mentioned, however the one of the bests sites that are around are of course the one you are on right now. https://www.overclock.net/f/17973/cables-and-sleeving

However there has been a combination of international sleevers on Facebook that I suggest you poke your head into and gather information and meet other sleevers. 

Please check it out here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ComputerSleeving/

Also I am happy to announce that a Sub-Reddit has been made for specifically people who sleeve. Please check out the new channel here: http://www.reddit.com/r/PCSleeving/


How To Train Your Sleeved Cables?
– How do I train a sleeved cable to bend a certain way and look cleaner? Also, how do I get the same look as the cables that I see in your pictures?

I get asked the latter question all the time. If you have read through the FAQ you will know by now there is a huge different between an extension and OEM sleeving.

An extension by design simply extends the existing cable, this allow for a perfect 1-1 pinout that goes straight from one connector to the other. This allows for a perfect looking cable and is one of the reason my sleeved cables pictures look perfect and rainbow or “flow” exactly the way I want them.

OEM psu sleeving (sleeving the existing cables) however will be a harder task as you are at the mercy of the PSU maker and the pinout they have used. This can make training your cable very difficult. However read the following tips for producing a better result.

There are eight tips for achieving a good looking cable in terms of organization and training it to “flow” properly.

1. Tighten the sleeve as much as possible! This will work with plastic sleeve the best - but is still totally possible with paracord if you stretch it right. If you get the right stretch down and do it consistently – the full cable will hold its shape better.

2. As you are sleeving and putting the wires back into the connector, bend and train the cable as you finish each row. This will give you an upper hand when you end up training the whole cable. To train the cables - simply hold the row in your hand and do slight bends in the direction you want the cable to go all the way from the front of the cable to the back. If done properly it will make the final training of the full cable much easier.

3. Train, train, and train the finished cable, then come back and do it some more. Do this before you put it in the system and after. For example hold all the rows together and bend in the direction you have been training them by doing slight bends from the front to the back. Once the cable is in the system do the same thing until you get the desired result.

4. Zip-ties are your friends! If you get handy with some zip ties this will make it easier when its placed into the system - a few well-placed goes a long way. For example, a zip-tie behind the case on a 24pin will bundle the cable some and allow you to train it easier on the facing side.

5. Learning about wire lengths and how to use them to your advantage will help a long way into getting the cable to bend the way you want. This however takes time and trial and error. For example making one row slightly longer on the outer bend will give you some extra slack to bend the cable in the right direction. This however is mainly for extensions or pcie/ eps cables.

6. The wire you use will affect how easy it is to train the cable. Try different kinds until you find a stiff cable that is easy to sleeve. However always stick to 18awg or a custom 16awg, just look for different wire coatings. I would stay away from solid core as they are harder if not impossible to get a good crimp.


This is an example of the 16AWG wire made for hearshrinkless, you will notice that the diameter is smaller so that you will have an easy time sleeving but the thick wire will allow you to train your wires super easy.

7. If you are doing an OEM PSU you will have to train the parts that are seen and tuck away the other side. This is due to the OEM Pinouts. For example, use a zip tie to hide the twisting and double wires of a 24pin to the back of the case. Then train the exposed cables until the desired effect is achieved.

8. Make yourself a set of extensions to add onto your OEM sleeved cables. This is the perfect way to get your cables to look professional and get the look you always wanted. This will include making custom length OEM cables and then using the extensions to get the perfect bend. Its more work for sure, but for those that desire nothing less than perfect – this is the only way to go.

I will be honest however, training a cable is an art. It will take tons of trial and error and practice until you get it down. Even then sometimes with OEM sleeving (sleeving the original cables) the PSU makers pinout will make it very hard and sometimes almost impossible to get a perfect “flow”. But, with enough practice you can make it look pleasing.


Where To Buy Sleeving & Mod Supplies?
– Where do you buy all of your supplies & sleeving, and are they any good?

First of all I have to honestly say that now that I own a store that sells sleeving goods and services that I use my own products, however I am not about making money - but about getting the right person to the right store. Even if that means its not mine. That is why I give a list to where supplies can be bought and still do reviews to help out the other shops. There is more then enough room for everyone and if the client does not have to pay a ton in shipping then everyone wins.

I have gotten that question numerous times since I started sleeving. I have always planned to get ahold of all sleeving shops and have done so for a long time now. However, I for the most part have never done an actual video review on these items because for the most part there is not too much to go over.

But then came a time when these mod shops were starting to contact me to do a review on their products, and I now have about 10 different shops world wide with stuff in transit to my house. So thus, the Lutro0 Customs - Product Reviews Shop Series and Product Series was born.

I will continue to post my Review Videos on my YouTube Channel. I will also provide a list of most sleeve shops and cable providers.


Below is a list of makers, buyers, and solutions when it comes to sleeving.

Sleeve Product Providers List

Custom Pre-Sleeved Solutions:

Psychosleeve -
http://psychosleeve.com/

Big City Sleeving -
https://www.facebook.com/groups/299207060157345/

Skitzba -
https://www.facebook.com/groups/442347012474482/

Frozenqpcmods
http://www.frozenqpcmods.com/sleeve.php

Maximum Mods
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Maximum-Modding/411307298919274

Kosovar Mods
https://www.facebook.com/KosovarMods
http://www.sweclockers.com/profil/kosovar


Factory Made Pre-Sleeved Solutions:

BitPhenix -
http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/premium-modding/alchemy-cables/

NZXT -
http://www.nzxt.com/new/product.php?series=13

Corsair -
http://www.corsair.com/en/power-supply-units/psu-accessories.html

Moddiy.com -
http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Cable-Sleeving/?sort=bestselling

Performance-PCs
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php


Plastic Type Sleeving:

MDPC -
http://en.mdpc-x.com/

SleeveModding -
http://www.sleeve-modding.com/

Dazmode -
http://www.dazmode.com/

Performance-PCs -
http://www.performance-pcs.com

Frozen-CPU -
http://www.frozencpu.com/

Xoxide -
http://www.xoxide.com/

Furryletters (Techflex Cleancut)-
http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS

Big City Sleeving -
https://www.facebook.com/groups/299207060157345/

Kobra HD -
http://www.performance-pcs.com
http://www.Frozencpu.com

Bitspower -
http://www.performance-pcs.com


Paracord Type Sleeving:

A word of warning, many bargain type paracord even from reputable sites can be fuzzy or snaggled. The reason is that its not made for sleeving so they really dont look into the looks too much. Paracord can be bought anywhere.

Otherwise you can get lucky with some of the following shops - I find that rothco on amazon is normally a good source or shoprobbies.com

http://www.Amazon.com
http://www.Countycomm.com
http://www.ebay.com
http://www.paracordplanet.com/
http://www.extac.com.au/category_s/196.htm
http://www.bucklerunner.com/100-Hanks-550-Paracord_c4.htm
http://www.vtarmynavy.com/parachute_cord.htm
http://www.supplycaptain.com/
http://www.paracord.com/
https://www.facebook.com/Robbyssales?fref=ts --- 10% discount modgroup10 code


How To Sleeve Sata Pass-Through or Crimp Style Power Connectors?
– What is the best way to sleeve a molex sata power connector?

There is tons of methods for what you are asking. The main reason I have not made a video for it is that reason alone. It is very difficult to get a clean look, and it can be very frustrating because it takes many tries to get it just right. Also there is allot of misinformation out there as well as bad looking jobs that dont explain what they did to get that look.

Please remember to practice on a spare one many times before you give this a try as it is nothing less than an art form to get it right.

Here are the following ways to sleeve a pass-through molex sata power connector.

-please note that none of the following pictures are my own or of my own work, they are used simply for reference and the credit is fully given to those that have made the photos and took the time to make them-

1. The small section of sleeving in-between method without heatshrink:
This method requires the absolute correct measurement of the sleeve in between the connectors. A common misconception is that you need heatshrink to hold onto it. The way I get around this is to make the sleeve go from one connector to the other with no gaps, but put a small amount of super glue underneath the sleeve to hold it into place - make sure that they are snug and under the little lip of the pass through connector. I do not have an example of this method on hand as the one I did was for a project for NVIDIA and I did not take any photos, but if you look at the following example it looks very similar.

A. Modified non-heatshrink:
This method will produce the same effect as method one, however you sleeve the full cable first and then cut away a small amount of sleeve to allow the wire to be pushed into the pass through molex terminal. This method will produce amazing results but its is VERY DIFFICULT to master. You will most likely waste tons of sleeve and wires before you get a perfect result. The following picture is one of the best executions of this method I have ever seen!


2. The small section of sleeving in-between method with heatshrink:
This method requires the absolute correct measurement of the sleeve and the heatshrink in between the connectors. A common misconception is that you need to make the sleeve shorter then the section to have the heatshrink hold onto it. But this only produces a bump that looks terrible. The way I get around this is to make the sleeve go from one connector to the other with no gaps, but put a small amount of super glue underneath the sleeve to hold it into place and then cut smaller sections of heatshrink to put over the ends to close up the end sections of the sleeve - make sure that they are snug and under the little lip of the pass through connector. Here is an example of this method, and one of the best executions of this method to a T.


Also here is an example of the method without bringing the sleeve right up to the connector, this is what I see most of the time and you can see how it throws off the look of the cable by having a little bump in between them:


3. Using colored wire method:
This is simple enough in the way that you use the first method to bring the sleeve up to the first connector but then leave the rest of the connectors with bare wire, but you use colored wire that matches your sleeve to leave a matching look. Here is an example of this method that is sold @ Mod-DIY:


4. Heatshrink the whole thing method:
This is also simple as you follow method one up to the first connector and then use colored heatshrink to give the matched look on the sections in-between your other connectors. Here is an example of this method, but remember that you can use colored heatshrink as well to make it match better:


5. Sleeve and heatshrink the whole bundle method:
As the name of the method states, you sleeve the whole bundle and shrink it in-between the connectors. I would recommend using a bit of super glue to hold it into place a bit better as well as holding the wires flat so they don't look like a round tube, this way you can get it to lay like a flat cable and give it a better look. Here is an example of such a method without laying the cables flat:


6. Use single crimp style connectors:
This is my favorite method as its the cleanest and best looking out of all of them, however it will depend on how many aux connectors your PSU has and how many sata powered devices you have.

But something to think about is that you can always make an 4pin Molex to crimped sata power connector if you need more sata connectors then your have aux connectors.

Simply put you use the crimp style sata power connectors and use one aux connector on your PSU per sata device, this way you are not compromising having to use the methods above and it provides the cleanest look of all. The downfall is having more sleeved cables to deal with and finding the room for them. Again its up to how many sata devices you have to use. Here is an example of what I mean, and you can see right away why this is my favorite as its the cleanest possible method:


A. Alternate daisy chain method both with heatshrink and without:
This method is if you have to have an extra device you can have the sleeved cables daisy chain off of one of the sata crimp connectors, what this would involve is having to crimp two wires to one crimp and be careful to insert it into one of the crimp sata connectors, this is very difficult to do and I would suggest a small diameter sleeve and a small diameter wires such as the UL1007 wire from amazon of other supplier. http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1355106964&sr=8-5&keywords=black+18awg

What makes that wire special is that it has a super small outer diameter and will give you the extra room you need to make a double wire into a single pin happen. But even then this takes much practice and patience to get a clean look. Here is a example of this method, while its not the cleanest example if done right with or without heatshrink it can be a saver if you don't have enough aux connectors on your PSU or have enough 4pin Molex power connectors to use - again this method does not bring the sleeve all the way up to the connector which is the cleanest method. Remember this can be done without heatshrink as well but the following photo does provide a good idea of what it looks like:


Heatshrinkless Or Heathshrink Methods?
– What does all of this mean?

This may be a basic question for most of us, but it can get a little confusing. Let me explain.

Heatshrink style sleeving is using heatshrink to hold the sleeve onto the wire when single or multiple sleeveing. Here is an example:



Also here is two video guides on this method to give you a deeper insight:









You can see that the heatshrink is on each wire, also the best heatshrink method sleeving keeps it straight in a row with a clean transition into the connector.

Right now the best heatshrink you can use for this is from MDPC as it has a thin wall and is 4:1 and precision cut to be perfect. This in combo with the LC Sleeving Tool make the job easy. Remember though just because the HS is holding the wire you should still melt the sleeve under the heatshrink a little buy hovering the heatgun on it a little bit more then just what it takes to shrink the HS.

Heatshrinkless Style Sleeving is a relatively new method. It was birthed in MDPC but Lutro0 Customs was the first to sell extensions in this method and from there the popularity grew immensely as it offered an easier way to sleeve for everyone and gives the wires a much stronger hold. Heatshrinkless is a confusing name as for PET sleeving you need to use heatshrink to use the method, but for paracord you do not.

Here is an example:


Also here is some video examples:









As said before you only need to use heatshrink for the heatshrinkless method if you are using plastic type or PET sleeving, this is because it will expand if it has nothing to hold it down, also it creates a sort of plastic weld to the wire that is super strong, and then you cut off the shrink. Paracord on the other hand is a nylon material and will not expand so you can lightly melt it and shape it with your fingers so heatshrink is not needed.

I hope that explains the methods betters so its not confusing.


What Wire Do I Buy For What Method?
– What wire is the best for which method?Click to Expand (Click to show) 

I have been asked to put this on the faq for a while, but before I continue I want you to throw away all knowledge you have on sleeving wire basics and just trust my info as it has been tried and true on many many jobs.

Heatshrink Method Wire:

Nils has given out a certain diameter range of the best wire for his crimper and sleeving. I agree with some of it but I have found throughout many many jobs that the smaller the diameter of the wire for the heatshrink method the better! Think about it, you are trying to put a wire, a peice of heatshrink, part of a crimp, and a little bit of sleeve (this is for looks) into a small square hole on a connector. Logic would dictate if you can reduce the size of the materials going in then the easier it would be.... right?

Thats why MDPC heatshrink is so awesome, it has a thin wall and makes it easier - also this is why its almost impossible to use heatshrink on stock 16awg cables, they are just too thick.

Here is a link to the perfect wire I have found in the usa for heatshrink style sleeving. :http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1355106964&sr=8-5&keywords=black+18awg




Now you dont need to buy it at amazon or the LC site, infact the UL1007 is a standard of wire and if you buy UL1007 18AWG wire from any distributor it should be the same thing.

The combination of the Outside Diameter of 0.0403 inches and the insulation material provides a great grip on the crimp and allows for super super easy heatshrink style sleeving. I have found no better wire then this.

The only con I have found is that it has some light writing on the cable, but this can be removed with any strong cleaner just maker sure to wipe it off right away so it doesnt eat the insulation. But honestly if you sleeve right you wont see it period. I always leave it on.

Heatshrinkless Method Wire:

Being I was one of the first to market this style I have done tons of research into this wire. Infact after not being able to find an 16AWG wire (which has been a dream of mine for a while now - to be able to easily use a 16awg wire in sleeving) I went out and had wire custom made for heatshrinkless style and to help with cable management. My 16AWG cable is the only cable of its diameter and guage on the market due to the specifications of the cable. Which is why I am listing it on this FAQ - not to sell it, but its the only place to buy it.


This is an example of the 16AWG wire made for heatshrinkless style, you will notice that the diameter is smaller so that you will have an easy time sleeving but the thick wire will allow you to train your wires super easy.

I have specially designed this wire to be exactly the right diameter and type of insulation it needs to be to have robust crimps and allow for great cable management.

There is a few other cables out there like the 18AWG Coleman Cable that is a great alternative cable to use for heatshrinkless style, but I find that its hard to find for a good price other then on Amazon, which doesnt help out our international friends.


How Do I De-Pin My PSU Pins?
– How do I get the wires out of the connectors without damaging, what is the best tool?

This question has been a long time coming and for a large part seems to be one of the hardest things for a sleever to get down. Everyone at one time seems to have a problem with this.

I want to say first off, that please please please! DO NOT waste your money on the depinning kits out there. While they all have the basic intentions right they all not even comparable to the Original Molex Tool. The Original Molex Tool was made by Molex just for the removal of the ATX terminals we use. Its made of high tool quality metal and will last you a lifetime if you take care of it. Furthermore, there is only 3 tools you will ever need for depinning anything in your computer. What's even better is the Modified LC Molex Extractor that was designed off of the Original One - but the LC Modified is cheaper and customed to work the best.

1. The Better LC Modified Molex Extractor
2. A Round 4Pin Molex Extractor
3. A run of the mill Exacto knife with a pointed tip. (the exacto knife is used to pull up any of the tap type connectors)

That tool set will last you longer, make your jobs easier, and in the long run cost you less then any other tool on the market.

Before going any further I suggest you give a look at my MDPC Video Guide starting at time: 2:46 - this is where I show exactly how to use the tool and how to handle the problem wires. This is the best method for handling them. 




If you watch the video you will see that my Original Molex Tool is slightly tweaked to be wider then how they come originally - this is a tweak I do to help get the tool on the outside of the pin.



The instructions are simple:

1. Insert the Molex Tool making sure to have both prongs on the outside of the terminal on the inside.
2. Push the wire up into connector while pushing down on the tool to make sure its all the way in.
3. While makeing sure the tool is still all the way in pull out the wire. (sometimes you make need to pull with some force as some terminals dig into the connector as this is how the PSU maker has made them.

This method will ALWAYS work, sometimes you may need allot more pull force then you think you should need but as long as you keep the wire straight so your pulling force is straight out of the connector you will be fine. If you need to repeat the steps and try again.

Allot of people also ask how do I remove the male terminals from the male connectors. It is done exactly the same way.

1. Insert your Molex Tool the same direction as the wings on the terminal and from the front side push the tool in untill it falls into the grooves for de-pinning. This can be frustrating as you can see them while you do this - but you will feel when it goes in. It just takes a little moving around.
2. Pull out wire while tool is pushed in.

And lastly we will cover the Round 4pin Extractor.

The Round 4pin Extractor needs little explanation as you simple use the right end to put over the round pin and then pull it out.

I will cover the Exacto Knife in another section as it needs allot of pictures to fully explain. But the simple rule with the Knife is that if it has a tab slightly lift it and pull the wire out, and if it doesn't have a tab you need to push down on the top part of the metal pin exposed on the side and push down to slide the pin out with the knife. But I will show you how when I update next.


Can I Sleeve An SLI Bridge?
– Can you sleeve one and what do you need to do it?
This is another question I get frequently, Nothing is more of an eyesore then an sli bridge that is not painted or that doesn't match the system it is in.

First things first, I want to share a video on one of the way this can be done by Alexander van der Linde If you haven't heard of his YouTube Channel I suggest you check it out.
http://www.youtube.com/user/alexvdl1?feature=watch

Here is his video on a clean and unique method for getting this task done:
Now this is only one method.

The basics of getting this task done are simply finding a sleeve that will go over the bridge and still compress down to look good. Also you want a heatshrink that you can stretch or have an exact size that will fit as well.

Now because there is so many different kinds of sleeving and I have seen it accomplished with just about 20 different kinda of sleeve and heatsrhink I will only provide the basic way of figuring out what you need:

One quick tip before we get started, just because your motherboard or gpu came with a bridge doesnt mean you need to use that one if its hard to sleeve. They can be purchased everywhere or gotten for free from OCN members.

1. Measure the diameter of the end of bridge (imagine you have a big circle - whats the smallest diameter circle you will need to get it over the end.

2. Now that you have that circle you need to find a sleeve that will STRETCH TO THE CIRCLE SIZE - DO NOT BUY THE SAME SIZE AS YOUR NEEDED CIRCLE! If you do that then you will not be able to collapse the sleeve enough to make it look like a tight weave. (cheap black sleeving can be bought by Barry (furryletters) on eBay check out his shop and look for clean cut, remember to call him and he will give you a better price)

3. Find some heatshrink that is a little bit under your circle so that you have to stretch it to make it fit, this will ensure a tight grip on the sleeve and bridge - make sure you at least have 3:1 or higher and not glue lined.

4. Stretch the HS with a needle nose pliers slowly until it fits.

5. Follow normal sleeving procedures.

So I hope that helps, there is so many different ways to do things when modding. And when sleeving odd shaped things always keep in mind if there is sharp corners try to use a file and make them not so sharp or use a little tape.

How Do I Sew My Cables? 
- How do I sew my sleeved cables to get them to stay in place.?
I personally have never done this so I will be leaving the answer to this question to FrankNSteinPC. If you have not checked him out on Youtube yet please check his channel at: http://www.youtube.com/FrankNSteinPC

I have gotten his permission to post his videos on here for you, he is a great guy if you get a chance to meet him I suggest you do. Also his Mods are beautiful, if you find the time check them out.


Can I Crimp A Terminal With A Needle Nose Pliers? 
- What if I only need to crimp one or two wires because of a mistake or if I want to not use my crimper and use a needle nose on the heavier terminals?
If you accidentally pull out the wire from the terminal and you dont want to buy a crimper you can use a needle nose pliers to crimp the terminals without having to buy a crimper. However if you need to do more then 4 or so then I would seriously look into getting a crimper as they will be stronger and way less time consuming to do.

But the process is simple:


Make sure to have a needle nose pliers and a wire stripper that you can strip the wire to 3mm or so. Strip the wire and proceed to the next step.


Make sure that the extra wire length is inside of the pin - this will give it a better connection and hold it into place for you a bit.


Crimp down the one side carefully.


Then fold over the other side and clamp it down, make sure to get it right on so it does not overhang.


Fold over the upper wing as close to the other, I even bend the open on over a little so I can round it over a bit more.


Try to round it over as much as possible - dont just clamp it down otherwise you will end up with a ovelapping metal that will not insert properly. These crimps are not the strongest but will work in an emergency.


And thats it! Like I said I dont recommend doing this with allot of crimps but if you are in a bind it will work in a pinch, this also work with other pins as well.

Please remember that I am always updating this and if you want to see something on here please just leave a comment with your questions!



Lutro0s Sleeving Pro Tips
This section of the FAQ will consist of random bits and pieces categorized by series that I tend to go in depth in at times, or show examples of perfect work or "how it should look", and even random materials that are needed for special sleeving methods and those methods.


Pro Tip #001 Heatshrinkless Basics Explained (How it should look series)



Pro Tip #001:

When heatshrinkless sleeving one of the most important things to get right is how you are melting the sleeve and how it looks when you insert it into the connector. If you did too much or too little it will show in this phase or not even click inside the connector at all.

That is why heatshrink is used on plastic sleeving and paracord you can use no heatshrink. As you melt the plastic the heatshrink will help form a cone of sorts neatly sealing the edge of the sleeve. With plastic type monofilament sleeve this is so much more important as those strands like to bend out of place, and paracord melts together allowing you to make a cord and its a softer material so it will go into the connector much easier allowing much more room for error.

The heatshrink you use is so important for this "heatshrinkless" method as it needs to be somewhat resistant to heat and hold its form when heated with a lighter for longer amounts of time not leaving too much of a residue on the sleeve. Also you do not want it being too tight and squeeze the plastic too hard as that will not give you a gradual cone but more of a melt then sleeve with no transition making putting the sleeved cable into the connector almost impossible and defiantly not leaving it how it should look. I recommend the following shrink for heatshrinkless as its the same I use cut in about 10mm lengths so the last edge does not get shrunk making it easy to cut off. The heatshrink needs to be able to handle the heat because when you are done heating it up you need to pat it down to help form the cone shape and ensuring a strong melt onto the wire and pin.

Of course there are more things that make the heatshrinkless method not only easy but a thing of beauty fully filling the connector leaving you with a fully sleeved cable that is easy to train.

The example shown is of LC Custom 16awg wire with LC Stiff-Line Brown Sleeving which is why it looks full and super dense not showing the wire a bit and this shot is a closeup.

I hope that this helps you sleevers out there get more of an understanding of a method that is never cut and dry but more of an art.

Pro Tip #002 Importance of washing your hands.
Pro Tip #002:

When sleeving with light colors for example white or yellow or a light green, wash your hands before you sleeve to avoid staining the sleeve with heatshrink residue due to HSless Sleeving.

This should also be done before sleeving with any material due to the natural body oils making the wire slick and harder to stretch. If you use a nice dish soap (non lotion or scented) it will improve your grip on the sleeve. This makes sleeving allot easier and keeps your sleeving clean and slightly less attractive to dust.

WISK also says, "Also can use a plastic sandwich bag or ziplock as gloves while stretching to avoid skin oils and helps against rope burn too"

Pro Tip #003 Use PVC Wire Instead of Silicone Or Other Soft Wire Insulators.

Pro Tip #003:

People have asked me many times on what type of wire they should use and I have found a trend in people thinking that they need to get silicone wire or a very soft insulation on their wire to be able to route them better or for fear of having their sleeved cables be to stiff.

The truth of the matter is flexibility or softness is a huge misconception in sleeving and really the opposite is true.

In my opinion and in my experience you want wire that is stiff and that can be trained to hold its shape when you sleeve it. This way it will hold up and be able to be showcased in a nice route when its all done.

Silicone wire for sleeving is terrible. Its overly flexible and the terminals are crimped into a soft material and don't feel as sturdy.

Its really hard to get a wire that is too stiff, as you will always be able to twist and route the cable, but from my experience the stiffer the wire after its sleeved the better for training. Now obviously using solid wire would be going to far and you still would want to use a stranded wire with a insulation that can accept a terminal crimp and wont be brittle.

This is why I offer a specific wire on my shop even though wire can be found in allot of places, a good wire with a proper diameter and good insulation is hard to find if you don't know what to look for. For more specifics on what type and diameter of wire to purchase please refer to the question: What Type Of Wire Do I Buy - in the Sleeving FAQ

Pro Tip #004 Use Brush on Super Glue.

Pro Tip #004:

Brush on SuperGlue can be a very valuable asset when sleeving. By placing a small amount on the wire and then pulling the sleeve over it and holding for a second for it to tack and then heatshrinking it will allow for a more permanent hold. This can be very useful when you having issues with Sata Data Cables, Fan Connectors, Front IO Panel Connectors, and Heatshrink Style with Paracord.

I in fact use super glue on allot of my client work as I know it will take some more abuse that way.

Brush On Superglue can be found at your local hardware store.*


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

I'm seriously considering sleeving everything this Summer...
I think this answered more questions than I even had!


----------



## 161029

Great list of questions and answers.









Cable Sleeving has it's own Forum now!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Perfect post - answered all the questions I was inevitably going to ask for my 100%-sleeving project coming up. Thanks, Lutro0!


----------



## socketus

Fantastic FAQ - Great move to create a Cable Sleeving forum. Now - the one question I haven't been able to figure out ... the people who sleeve their existing PSU cabling, and the people who buy wire, connectors, pins, sleeving, and start from scratch - I ran across a post by LutroO about how existing PSU cabling will not give the rainbow effect/look that his extensions have, that its difficult to shape the PSU sleeved cables to look so flowing ....

So now I'm re-looking at pics of sleeving in a case and trying to pick out the noticeable differences of the sleeving between existing PSU cables and the DIYers - or does it matter ?
I mean, I get the DIYers approach - custom lengths - but what other reason is/are there for building a sleeved cable system from scratch ?


----------



## AlderonnX

Lutro0, Thanks this is great. there was a couple things i was looking around for on that list that really helped. Ordering some new EPS 8 pin plugs rite now. Also i enjoyed chatting with you on Livestream the other night. Keep up the good work.


----------



## Demented

And he won't let you give up either!


----------



## RJacobs28

Got my MDPC yesterday - just waiting on my sleeving tool! Stoked!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl*
> 
> I'm seriously considering sleeving everything this Summer...
> I think this answered more questions than I even had!


Nice!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Great list of questions and answers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cable Sleeving has it's own Forum now!


Thanks bud!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> Perfect post - answered all the questions I was inevitably going to ask for my 100%-sleeving project coming up. Thanks, Lutro0!


Awesome! Feel free to post any questions that come up!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Fantastic FAQ - Great move to create a Cable Sleeving forum. Now - the one question I haven't been able to figure out ... the people who sleeve their existing PSU cabling, and the people who buy wire, connectors, pins, sleeving, and start from scratch - I ran across a post by LutroO about how existing PSU cabling will not give the rainbow effect/look that his extensions have, that its difficult to shape the PSU sleeved cables to look so flowing ....
> So now I'm re-looking at pics of sleeving in a case and trying to pick out the noticeable differences of the sleeving between existing PSU cables and the DIYers - or does it matter ?
> I mean, I get the DIYers approach - custom lengths - but what other reason is/are there for building a sleeved cable system from scratch ?


To explain this more:

The difference between oem and custom cables is just about everything from the crimps to the type of wire used. A custom cable extension is made to fit and flow in the exact spot that it was meant to be in, while a oem cable was made to fit in every spot. The rainbow look is due to the cable being made to bend one way and is made specific for the case and mobo it is going to.

The reason its harder to do that with oem cables is that they have a specific pin out that is always different from maker to maker and they criss cross wires all over and you can only clean it up so much so it will never look like an extension that goes 1 to 1 pin straight across.

So even if you where to make a custom cable with an oem pin out - you could clean it up some but it would still not look like an extension.

I hope that answers some of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlderonnX*
> 
> Lutro0, Thanks this is great. there was a couple things i was looking around for on that list that really helped. Ordering some new EPS 8 pin plugs rite now. Also i enjoyed chatting with you on Livestream the other night. Keep up the good work.


Awesome! Thanks for the kind words!


----------



## [March]

Very useful post


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[March]*
> 
> Very useful post


Thanks March!


----------



## 3930K

IIRC MDPC-X sells 4:1 heatshrink.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> IIRC MDPC-X sells 4:1 heatshrink.


Yup its a 4:1- thin walled heatshrink with a high temp threshold. It takes allot of heat to burn it, and the colored heatshrink does not discolor with a good amount of heat.

I have not found a better heatshrink to this date and I have tested many.


----------



## Hukkel

How about sleeving the cables for fans?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> How about sleeving the cables for fans?


If you look in my video sleeving guides I have made one just for fans. (link is in my sig or stickied in the sleeving subforum)

The sleeving uses can be your normal 1/8th or small sized sleeving. However your heatshrink will need to be a bit larger for the method shown in my video but it can be done using smaller and not over the fan head. It comes down to preference.


----------



## halcyon-twin

Great job on the FAQ. This makes me want to sleeve my PSU when I get it in!


----------



## Jobotoo

Very nice, thanks!!!

Lustro0, could you add the sleeving size needed for different types of wires/cables (fan wire single or together, eps, sata, molex, and pcie cables)?

Thanks!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halcyon-twin*
> 
> Great job on the FAQ. This makes me want to sleeve my PSU when I get it in!


Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jobotoo*
> 
> Very nice, thanks!!!
> Lustro0, could you add the sleeving size needed for different types of wires/cables (fan wire single or together, eps, sata, molex, and pcie cables)?
> Thanks!


Its LUUUUTROOOOOHHH You silly person you.

Thats a great idea. I will get on that as soon as I can. But for a quick answer the small size or 1/8 is fine for individual wires and even all 3or4 of the fan wires in one. The only other sizes to be aware of is usb cables and sata cables and most of the time the sleeve is listed to be used with those things.

However I will measure them out and give you a better answer late.


----------



## samwiches

I got a molex kit (Sunbeam) with the most ultimate garbage extractor tool, and I'm seeing now that a decent one just costs too much for me to use one time.









Oh well. I still have an awesome color idea that I want for some extentions. Can I PM Lutro for a custom order?


----------



## Lu(ky

Question I have a Seasonic X650 GOLD PSU and would like to sleeve it WITHOUT the heatsrink like many of the pictures I've seen from your threads. Do you have a video or can you explain on how to sleeve without the heatshrink..
Thanks


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> To explain this more:
> The difference between oem and custom cables is just about everything from the crimps to the type of wire used. A custom cable extension is made to fit and flow in the exact spot that it was meant to be in, while a oem cable was made to fit in every spot. The rainbow look is due to the cable being made to bend one way and is made specific for the case and mobo it is going to.
> The reason its harder to do that with oem cables is that they have a specific pin out that is always different from maker to maker and they criss cross wires all over and you can only clean it up so much so it will never look like an extension that goes 1 to 1 pin straight across.
> So even if you where to make a custom cable with an oem pin out - you could clean it up some but it would still not look like an extension.
> I hope that answers some of it.
> Awesome! Thanks for the kind words!


Ok - thanks for the good answer ! So how do you make a 1 to 1 pin straight across for a Seasonic X-850 with the weird psu-side 18 and 10 pin ATX connectors ? without using the Seasonic connectors ?
makes no sense









Or how do I make a whole set of sleeved cables without them being extensions, for a Seasonic X-850 ?
How cleaned up - or not - would such a cable harness look like ? I have a distinct pattern in mind for the top visible row of the ATX cables, with the bottom row being all black - guess I need to trace my ATX cables from pin to pin.

I would have used the complete cable sets that Corsair makes for their own line, but the ATX, 8 pin and peripherals do not match !


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> I got a molex kit (Sunbeam) with the most ultimate garbage extractor tool, and I'm seeing now that a decent one just costs too much for me to use one time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well. I still have an awesome color idea that I want for some extentions. Can I PM Lutro for a custom order?


Yea sadly those tool kits are not the greatest and the 20 dollar Original Molex Tool is worth every penny.

For custom sleeving orders please check out OCN's Artisan Section : http://www.overclock.net/f/260/overclock-net-artisans
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lu(ky*
> 
> Question I have a Seasonic X650 GOLD PSU and would like to sleeve it WITHOUT the heatsrink like many of the pictures I've seen from your threads. Do you have a video or can you explain on how to sleeve without the heatshrink..
> Thanks


There is a thread in this section that will give you a basic understanding of it, but yes I will be making a video for paracord and MDPC as soon as I get moved into my new home.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Ok - thanks for the good answer ! So how do you make a 1 to 1 pin straight across for a Seasonic X-850 with the weird psu-side 18 and 10 pin ATX connectors ? without using the Seasonic connectors ?
> makes no sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or how do I make a whole set of sleeved cables without them being extensions, for a Seasonic X-850 ?
> How cleaned up - or not - would such a cable harness look like ? I have a distinct pattern in mind for the top visible row of the ATX cables, with the bottom row being all black - guess I need to trace my ATX cables from pin to pin.
> I would have used the complete cable sets that Corsair makes for their own line, but the ATX, 8 pin and peripherals do not match !


Yea sadly thats the point. You cannot make them 1-1 as it has double wires as well as double plugs, so the best you can do is clean it up. It will not look terrible as most will be behind the case but you will have to really work on the 24pin side right by the motherboard to get it to clean up and rainbow, its not impossible just really hard.

The corsair kit is just for the series it was made for as well.

Lots of people have done it and it takes alot of work but you will be proud of the job you have done if you take your time.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Daaaamn. Too bad you can't be artisan and sleeving editor.


----------



## metaldox

Hey bud I have question... what size heatshrink should i buy for paracord. 1/8 or 3/8.and are the
combo kits any good.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Daaaamn. Too bad you can't be artisan and sleeving editor.


True, but I am not the only knowledgeable sleever on this forum. However I will continue to add content and answer sleeving questions none the less.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metaldox*
> 
> Hey bud I have question... what size heatshrink should i buy for paracord. 1/8 or 3/8.and are the
> combo kits any good.


No combo kit is good. Its always better to buy separate to make sure you get what you need. (none that I have seen that is)

For paracord I see 1/4 3:1 Thinwalled or 1/4 4:1 Thinwalled to be the best. Finding good heatshrink is a hard task, MDPC although hard to order right now hands down has the best precut heatshrink out there right now. I would highly suggest ordering it from them - however I posted a link to a cheap and decent source for non-precut under the heatshrink part of the faq.


----------



## Lutro0

Also! Two new questions added, they will be updated and more info added as I find time.









Quote:


> PSU Types - Modular, Semi-Modular or Non-Modular?
> 
> In this section I hope to break down the basics for choosing a PSU to sleeve and the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
> 
> 1. *Fully Modular* - A fully modular PSU is a PSU that has fully disconnecting cables. These are the number one choice for sleevers and modders as it makes cleaning up a computer easy and sleeving effective and easier.
> 
> _Advantages_: The advantages to this are clear - each cable can be removed and then sleeved and only the cables you want can be used. One thing to keep in mind is that the pinout (cable arrangement) is set by the PSU maker on the PSU side, what I mean by this is that all PSU makers use their own pin out on the end that plugs into the powersupply. For this reason cables cannot be switched from PSU to PSU unless it is the same PSU or PSU model family. (and sometimes even this is not true) Each PSU maker lists or will make available the pinout if asked or looked on their site. Also using a modular PSU gives you the ability to easily make custom length cables by making your own.
> 
> _Disadvantages_: You have an OEM pin out and most likely split wires that will need to be made into a Y split to get rid of double wires. Also you have two ends that will need to be cleaned up and sleeved perfect so attention to detail is a must.
> 
> 2. *Semi-Modular* - A Semi-Modular PSU is a PSU that has a both hardwired and cables that can be removed. Typically the hardwired cables are the 24pin and an 8pin eps.
> 
> _Advantages_: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps. It also still allows you to remove the cables you will not use.
> 
> _Disadvantages_: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result.
> 
> 3. *Non-Modular* - A Non-Modular PSU is a PSU that has hardwired cables.
> 
> _Advantages_: The advantages to this are not having to clean up both ends of the cable for the 24pin and 8pin eps.
> 
> Disadvantages: Losing your warranty due to the limited options on sleeving methods. Takes a bit more work to get a clean result. Hard to work with huge bundle of wires and hard to route and clean up.
> 
> _There is only two ways to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU.
> 
> How to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular PSU. - How to sleeve a PSU that has hardwired cables?
> _
> 
> It is relatively simple to sleeve a Non-Modular and Semi-Modular powersupply. You only have two options to pick from:
> 
> a. *Keep your warranty* - You will sleeve and shrink the cables up to the area where the cables enter the PSU and then use a larger piece of heatshrink to sleeve them all together. (a zip tie under the heatshrink is typically used to hold them in place) This allows you to keep your warranty (contact psu maker to make sure) but looks kinda ugly if you can see your powersupply through your window.
> 
> b. *Kill your warranty* - In this method you simply remove the cover to your PSU and then sleeve the cables up inside of the PSU so that the cables are heatshrunk inside of the psu cover and then using a zip tie on the inside of the PSu to secure them. This method is by far the best and will look professional and clean. Please be careful when working inside of a PSU as the capacitors will hold enough of a charge to shock the crud out of you. Also please note that you may need to widen the hole where the cables enter as once you sleeve them the bundle will be thicker. You can terminate cables you will not use by unsoldering them inside the psu or simply cutting them and sealing the ends - but please only attempt this if you are sure of what you are doing.


----------



## nawon72

Can you include the part numbers for the connectors?


----------



## Rye26

do you have a tutorial on how to sleeve those dual cables to easily fit the plastic caps? very informative thread though


----------



## S3ason

So lutro0, how do you get the wires to rainbow perfectly and keep them from tangling together? I know the outside row of wires needs to be longer than the inside, but when I sleeved with paracord they just seemed to jumble together in a big mess. Are you just pulling the sleeve really tight?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Can you include the part numbers for the connectors?


I will get on it, nawon. I think BE has most of them so I will ask for his help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rye26*
> 
> do you have a tutorial on how to sleeve those dual cables to easily fit the plastic caps? very informative thread though


I dont at this moment, however I am going to add Ontics guide into the FAQ. Trying to wait to get his approval but I don't think hes been on in a long time. So I might just add it for now. Search for Ontics Sleeving guide and check from step 16.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> So lutro0, how do you get the wires to rainbow perfectly and keep them from tangling together? I know the outside row of wires needs to be longer than the inside, but when I sleeved with paracord they just seemed to jumble together in a big mess. Are you just pulling the sleeve really tight?


I do pull the sleeving really tight and I work the wires allot to get them to stay together. It also has to do with how I keep the crimps straight. But it really comes down to practice.


----------



## 3930K

Lutro, how much heatshrink do I need for the AX1200, in pieces?


----------



## Dukman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samwiches*
> 
> I got a molex kit (Sunbeam) with the most ultimate garbage extractor tool, and I'm seeing now that a decent one just costs too much for me to use one time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well. I still have an awesome color idea that I want for some extentions. Can I PM Lutro for a custom order?


I still have a kit similar to the one you have that I purchase years ago. Extracting the mini fit connectors was always difficult, nearly impossible. I finally broke down and purchased the Molex pin remover. The difference that tool makes is almost hard to believe.

It's a bit expensive to those on a budget. Or I should say, it may seem a bit expensive to those on a budget, but it's worth every penny if you plan on doing some serious sleeving. It's worth the price of admission just for the 24pin connector(s) alone.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Lutro, how much heatshrink do I need for the AX1200, in pieces?


Twice the number of pins, + ~20-30% extra.


----------



## 3930K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvidiaftw12*
> 
> Twice the number of pins, + ~20-30% extra.


I dunno how many pins in an AX1200 sata power cable though. The cable is basically a molex to sata power, and I dunno how many pins in a sata power cable.


----------



## Yaimah

Hi, Thanks for all of your answers for sleeving, it helped a lot







can I ask you what type or name of wire is used in pc power supplies ?? are 24 pin and 4 pin molex have same type of wire inside it??
Thanks


----------



## Big Elf

Molex and other part numbers listed below and I can't claim credit for the majority of these as someone else did the work and I can't find the link to it now. Lutro0 also helped me track some down.

Black 24 Pin Housing Female - 50-36-1667
Black 8 Pin CPU Housing - 50-36-1713
Black 6 Pin VGA Housing - 45559-0002
Black 8 Pin VGA Housing - This is a non-standard part and not made by Molex

Molex ATX Female Pins - 39-00-0038
Molex ATX Male Pins - 39-00-0040
Molex Fan Pins - 08-50-0114 (I'm not 100% sure about these but they are on my next order so will confirm later)

Molex Crimp Tool - 63811-1000 (please don't buy this as the MDPC-X Tool is far cheaper and works extremely well)

Harwin M20-1180042 - Motherboard pins, for connecting power/reset/speaker/ cables to the motherboard. Also used for motherboard USB and Firewire connectors.

Molex no longer make the pins for the Molex type 4 pin connector. The best male and female ones I have used and particularly for crimping double wires are those branded by ModSmart. Although I don't have a part number for them the female pins are stamped 'HWT' on the rear wings and the males pins 'HST'


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> Lutro, how much heatshrink do I need for the AX1200, in pieces?


Look up the power supply pin out and count up the number of ends of the wires (2 per wire is what it will be) and then if its your first time double that, other wise 20% - 30% extra.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3930K*
> 
> I dunno how many pins in an AX1200 sata power cable though. The cable is basically a molex to sata power, and I dunno how many pins in a sata power cable.


The pinout will help you, but a sata power cable typically has 5 wires. but you need to count each plug as you will heatshrink each ends in between the plugs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yaimah*
> 
> Hi, Thanks for all of your answers for sleeving, it helped a lot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can I ask you what type or name of wire is used in pc power supplies ?? are 24 pin and 4 pin molex have same type of wire inside it??
> Thanks


18AWG is what you should use for sleeving. However some psu makers do use 16AWG wire but it makes it super hard to sleeve if not impossible for some sleeves.


----------



## jackofhearts495

On a scale of 1 - 10, how easy is a Corsair AX850 to sleeve compared to comparable power supplies?


----------



## S3ason

I'm not 100% sure, but I think the AX series has a few pins that are doubled down, meaning two wires lead into one pin. This can make it more difficult to sleeve, but not impossible.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> Molex and other part numbers listed below and I can't claim credit for the majority of these as someone else did the work and I can't find the link to it now. Lutro0 also helped me track some down.
> *B*lack 24 Pin Housing Female - 50-36-1667
> Black 8 Pin CPU Housing - 50-36-1713
> Black 6 Pin VGA Housing - 45559-0002
> Black 8 Pin VGA Housing - This is a non-standard part and not made by Molex
> Molex ATX Female Pins - 39-00-0038
> Molex ATX Male Pins - 39-00-0040
> *M*olex Fan Pins - 08-50-0114 (I'm not 100% sure about these but they are on my next order so will confirm later)
> *M*olex Crimp Tool - 63811-1000 (please don't buy this as the MDPC-X Tool is far cheaper and works extremely well)
> *H*arwin M20-1180042 - Motherboard pins, for connecting power/reset/speaker/ cables to the motherboard. Also used for motherboard USB and Firewire connectors.
> Molex no longer make the pins for the *M*olex type 4 pin connector. The best male and female ones I have used and particularly for crimping double wires are those branded by ModSmart. Although I don't have a part number for them the female pins are stamped 'HWT' on the rear wings and the males pins 'HST'


Does the 24pin female housing connect to itself if you have the male and female pins, or do you need a male connector with male pins?

The fans pins are 08-50-0114 (bag) or 08-50-0113(reel). I know for sure that FTWPC has 08-50-0113 since they



__ https://www.facebook.com/ftwpc/posts/388614981170622


on their FB wall, and it's the cheaper of the two.

The Molex crimp tool is not more expensive than the MDPC tool. In fact, it's much cheaper if you buy it from Newark ($38), or get it used (saw it used like new $30). And based off the one guide where it was used, it looks like it has acceptable, and/or preferred Molex crimps according to their Quality Crimp Handbook. As of now, I'm set on getting the Molex crimper unless I can find a good and cheap ratcheting tool. The MDPC crimper is $70-$75 for me, assuming I have to pay Level 3 shipping which Is what heard is needed for the tool. So it's $20-$40 cheaper for the Molex tool, and I get a better crimp (according to Molex).

Do you have the connector for that?

Which connector are your referring to? A pic would help.

Here is the Sata power connector (not inline): 67582-0000

And Pins: 67581-0000 (Type 1) or 67581-0010 (Type 2)

I don't see the difference between type 1 and 2, but type 1 is hard to find.

Part numbers from here: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata

Does anyone think the other Molex extraction tools are worth it? They include the 4pin periphal, and 3/4pin fan. The best explaination of how they work would be in the data sheet. The 4pin may be a bit confusing, but I seems like it has a spring loaded mechanism that ejects the pin from the connector once pushed all the way down.

I've got a pretty big list of connectors, pins, and tools, but some of them would need to be checked out and confirmed. Only a few of the things I actually found, and I don't have the links to where i found alot them.


----------



## EvgeniX

What size of clean cut sleeve good for SATA cables? and what size HEAT SHRINK for it? thx


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Molex and other part numbers listed below and I can't claim credit for the majority of these as someone else did the work and I can't find the link to it now. Lutro0 also helped me track some down.
> *B*lack 24 Pin Housing Female - 50-36-1667
> Black 8 Pin CPU Housing - 50-36-1713
> Black 6 Pin VGA Housing - 45559-0002
> Black 8 Pin VGA Housing - This is a non-standard part and not made by Molex
> Molex ATX Female Pins - 39-00-0038
> Molex ATX Male Pins - 39-00-0040
> *M*olex Fan Pins - 08-50-0114 (I'm not 100% sure about these but they are on my next order so will confirm later)
> *M*olex Crimp Tool - 63811-1000 (please don't buy this as the MDPC-X Tool is far cheaper and works extremely well)
> *H*arwin M20-1180042 - Motherboard pins, for connecting power/reset/speaker/ cables to the motherboard. Also used for motherboard USB and Firewire connectors.
> Molex no longer make the pins for the *M*olex type 4 pin connector. The best male and female ones I have used and particularly for crimping double wires are those branded by ModSmart. Although I don't have a part number for them the female pins are stamped 'HWT' on the rear wings and the males pins 'HST'
> 
> 
> 
> Does the 24pin female housing connect to itself if you have the male and female pins, or do you need a male connector with male pins?
> 
> *I don't have the part number for the male connector*
> 
> The fans pins are 08-50-0114 (bag) or 08-50-0113(reel). I know for sure that FTWPC has 08-50-0113 since they
> 
> 
> 
> __ https://www.facebook.com/ftwpc/posts/388614981170622
> 
> 
> on their FB wall, and it's the cheaper of the two.
> 
> *Thanks for confirming that*
> 
> The Molex crimp tool is not more expensive than the MDPC tool. In fact, it's much cheaper if you buy it from Newark ($38), or get it used (saw it used like new $30). And based off the one guide where it was used, it looks like it has acceptable, and/or preferred Molex crimps according to their Quality Crimp Handbook. As of now, I'm set on getting the Molex crimper unless I can find a good and cheap ratcheting tool. The MDPC crimper is $70-$75 for me, assuming I have to pay Level 3 shipping which Is what heard is needed for the tool. So it's $20-$40 cheaper for the Molex tool, and I get a better crimp (according to Molex).
> 
> *When I started looking for the crimp tool the original Molex ones were over £100 in the UK, the cost is now a lot cheaper, thank you, I hadn't looked recently but it looks as though they cost the same as the MDPC-X tool in the UK*
> 
> Do you have the connector for that?
> 
> *If you're referring to the 4 pin Molex type connector I understand that these are no longer manufactured by Molex*
> 
> Which connector are your referring to? A pic would help.
> 
> *These is the connector(s) I was referring to*
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the Sata power connector (not inline): 67582-0000
> And Pins: 67581-0000 (Type 1) or 67581-0010 (Type 2)
> I don't see the difference between type 1 and 2, but type 1 is hard to find.
> Part numbers from here: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata
> 
> Does anyone think the other Molex extraction tools are worth it? They include the 4pin periphal, and 3/4pin fan. The best explaination of how they work would be in the data sheet. The 4pin may be a bit confusing, but I seems like it has a spring loaded mechanism that ejects the pin from the connector once pushed all the way down.
> 
> I've got a pretty big list of connectors, pins, and tools, but some of them would need to be checked out and confirmed. Only a few of the things I actually found, and I don't have the links to where i found alot them.
Click to expand...


----------



## xD3aDPooLx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> What size of clean cut sleeve good for SATA cables? and what size HEAT SHRINK for it? thx


MDPC, does sale sata sleeve and hs for them... others i dont know..


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> Do you have the connector for that?
> 
> *If you're referring to the 4 pin Molex type connector I understand that these are no longer manufactured by Molex*


I meant the *H*arwin M20-1180042

However, I think these may be the Molex pins for the 4pin peripheral connector: 02-08-1201 (Female, Reel) 02-06-2101 (Male, Reel)

I sorta found them myself, so don't buy them without checking.

Do you have the Molex 4pin peripheral male and female connector part numbers?

I know these are the AMP/TE Connectivity 4pin peripheral connectors and pins: 1-480426-0 (Male, Pins: 60619-1) 1-480424-0 (Female, Pins: 60620-1)


----------



## Big Elf

The Harwin M20-1180042 are this type



*Edit: I don't have the specific housing part numbers for these but I think they are part of the M20-106 Product Family*

As far as I know Molex don't make the housings for the 4 pin peripheral connectors any more. I also didn't think that they made the pins either but if those from Mouser are are correct then they're clearly identified as Molex.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> MDPC, does sale sata sleeve and hs for them... others i dont know..


that's why I asked about Clean Cut Size if some one can recommend


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> that's why I asked about Clean Cut Size if some one can recommend


If you measure the "stem" of the sata cable and then pick the closest size he (fuzzyalphabet) has, that would be the one I used.


----------



## EvgeniX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If you measure the "stem" of the sata cable and then pick the closest size he (fuzzyalphabet) has, that would be the one I used.


its can be 3/8 and 1/4 that's why I ask pros like you whats fit best..... also about HEAT SHRINK size for it.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvgeniX*
> 
> its can be 3/8 and 1/4 that's why I ask pros like you whats fit best..... also about HEAT SHRINK size for it.


Sall good! I would have checked my stock of Clean Cut but its packed at the moment. (in the middle of a move) So I just told you what I did. I did the same thing for the heatshrink, but I purposely got it the same size as the ends I was working with and then stretched it a bit with a needle nose pliers (as it was 3:1 and I wanted a tight fit)

Does that make sense?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> -snip
> 
> _The Molex crimp tool is not more expensive than the MDPC tool. In fact, it's much cheaper if you buy it from Newark ($38), or get it used (saw it used like new $30). And based off the one guide where it was used, it looks like it has acceptable, and/or preferred Molex crimps according to their Quality Crimp Handbook. As of now, I'm set on getting the Molex crimper unless I can find a good and cheap ratcheting tool. The MDPC crimper is $70-$75 for me, assuming I have to pay Level 3 shipping which Is what heard is needed for the tool. So it's $20-$40 cheaper for the Molex tool, and I get a better crimp (according to Molex)._
> 
> -snip-


To clarify that statement before people go out and buy it....

That is indeed a molex tool but it is a non-ratcheting tool and if you are doing only a few pins might be fine, however anyone doing a set of cables will want to kill that thing with fire by the time they are done.

For everyday use the only crimpers worth wasting your time on is as follows:

For a couple crimps or a small project (not recommended for a full set because of the way it crimps the "wings") : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277
N_Note: these can be found at many different mod shops including FTW, FrozenCPU and others._

The best for the best price (this will produce perfect crimps all the time that will hold also it comes with pins): http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimpzange.htm
Note: This is the german site and it is sold on the international site but his shop times are limited

This may be the best tool but the price is way out of range for most people: http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=97M9440&CMP=AFC-GB100000001


----------



## S3ason

Today I bought the mdpcx crimper. I previously had a performance pcs crimper. My advice, dont bother with anything other than the pricey mdpcx one. You will regret it. The ppcs crimper is supposed to be adequate but after playing with it a bit and adjusting the ratcheting strength, ive found it makes horrible crimps. A pound of force will pull these things out with ease. Buy the mdpcx crimper and nothing else.


----------



## Hukkel

You should totally put your video of the use of your own tool in the first post. It helped a lot.

You made a very clear video. Maybe you can do one from start to finish. So also show how you get the connector out. etc.

I have one question; do you always need to rebuy the connectors? I mean can't you just re-use them if they're in the desired colour?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> You should totally put your video of the use of your own tool in the first post. It helped a lot.
> You made a very clear video. Maybe you can do one from start to finish. So also show how you get the connector out. etc.
> I have one question; do you always need to rebuy the connectors? I mean can't you just re-use them if they're in the desired colour?


I dont really want to advertise on this guide, and the videos are in a different thread as it would just be too much info in one place.

I show how to get them out of the connector in the mdpc video, and I will be going over it in depth in the "sleeving tool shootout" I have planned.

And yes you can always reuse the existing connectors!

Also I just updated the FAQ to include a small blip about crimpers and pins.

As always I will continue to keep adding more info as I have time.
Quote:


> Which crimpers & pins do I buy? - What crimpers & pins to use and the reason why they are chosen.
> 
> To understand the following information you need to understand that not all crimpers are created equally. Molex has a chart in which it defines what is a good crimp and what is a bad crimp in its own standards - but from an experienced sleevers point of view there is only one good crimp, and that is the bite crimp.
> 
> Here is an example taken from hchristian's Experiance with different pins and tools.
> 
> _"1st wire : MDPC-X crimp with MDPC-X pin create an "m" shape that bites into the insulation, making the contact real solid.
> 
> 2nd wire : MDPC-X crimp with ConnectX pin create an "m" shape as well, however, as mentioned earlier, due to the shorter "wings", the pin doesn't bite into the insulation as much.
> 
> 3rd wire : Han Long crimp with MDPC-X pin. The tool simply sucks to be honest, it was the reason I decided to buy the MDPC-X crimping tool despite the cost to ship internationally. The crimp is unable to create an "m" shape, it simply folds the "wings". Simply pulling on it slides the cable off the pin unfortunately."
> _
> 
> So now that you see what the two available tools can do (the hans tool is the same at both perfpc and frozencpu) lets talk a moment about pins before we continue.
> 
> Most pins that are sold are non-OEM pins, this means that a manufacturer other then Molex has made them and sold them to our online shops. The problem with this is that they decided it would be a good idea to make the wings that hold the wire smaller and then sell the longer winged pins as "double wire" pins.
> 
> Any experienced sleever will tell you that these pins "shorter wings" are garbage as they don't allow the proper bite into the wire to hold and make a strong crimp.
> 
> So what we can take away from this is that only the original Molex brand crimps should be bought even if you are just using the hans tool.
> 
> Here is the part number for those pins:
> Molex ATX Female Pins - 39-00-0038
> Molex ATX Male Pins - 39-00-0040 (just for extensions)
> 
> *And finally, here is a list of crimpers that should be considered for purchase:*
> 
> _For a couple crimps or a small project (not recommended for a full set because of the way it crimps the "wings")_ : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277
> Note: these can be found at many different mod shops including FTW, FrozenCPU and others.
> 
> _The best for the best price (this will produce perfect crimps all the time that will hold also it comes with pins):_ http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimpzange.htm
> Note: This is the german site and it is sold on the international site but his shop times are limited
> 
> _This may be the best tool as its made by Molex, but the price is way out of range for most people:_ http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=97M9440&CMP=AFC-GB100000001


----------



## KOBALT

There needs to be a 'I learned how to do this from Lutro0' thread with pics


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KOBALT*
> 
> There needs to be a 'I learned how to do this from Lutro0' thread with pics


LOL, that sir would be epic. Who wants to start it? lol


----------



## Lu(ky

Hey Lutro0 did you ever get moved into your new house?
Also wondering if you ever sleeved the new SeaSonic Platinum Platinum PSU yet? And is it any different than the GOLD PSU. Thanks


----------



## AlderonnX

So, Lutro0.. your saying that a normal persons hands are going to be killing them from that molex crimper? Since its not a ratcheting type?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lu(ky*
> 
> Hey Lutro0 did you ever get moved into your new house?
> Also wondering if you ever sleeved the new SeaSonic Platinum Platinum PSU yet? And is it any different than the GOLD PSU. Thanks


I have not, Im thinking another 2 weeks or so. We ended up having to replace all the ducting so woohoo, its taking longer.
















I have not, but I would be willing to bet they have not changed their crimps, as all the rest have been the same.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlderonnX*
> 
> So, Lutro0.. your saying that a normal persons hands are going to be killing them from that molex crimper? Since its not a ratcheting type?


No, I meant that to have to crimp and then open it over and over and over it will be a pain. The reason a ratcheting crimper is so awesome is that you can ratchet it down a little ( a click or two ) to hold the pin and then stick the wire in, or precrimp the pin (a couple clicks) and then stick the pin on the wire. With the non-ratcheting there is no clicks and only a guessed amount of pressure to hold the pin in to put the wire in. This will most likely effect your ability to get a even good crimp, it can be worked around, but why hassle yourself to just save 30 bucks or so.

Long story short it takes all of the guess work out of crimping to have the ratcheting tool. Although even with one, its an art form in itself.

I mean don't get me wrong it will work, just I think by the time you did a full psu or even 20 pins you would want to smash it on the ground.

The quality of the crimp is the big reason why I don't even mention it in my guide as it takes away from the quality of the pin because you are focused on the tool and not on the crimping at hand and for most new sleevers this leaves a huge area open for people to make mistakes on something that is supposed to be easy. Anyone who has made allot of wires knows how hard it is to keep them all even, this just throws another wrench into obtaining that perfect goal.

I try my best to always put my point of view not as a expert sleever (which I don't even consider myself to be) but as a first time sleever getting ready to do his first custom job. So all of my recommendations are for people starting out, however anyone who advances in sleeving will know the difference between the tools and have the feel for them which is key. But a whole nother side of what I recommend is quality, price, and usefulness.

I hope all of that makes sense.


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I try my best to always put my point of view not as a expert sleever (which I don't even consider myself to be)


----------



## Lutro0

Did some revisions to the crimping info. Thanks Nawon
Quote:


> Which crimpers & pins do I buy? - What crimpers & pins to use and the reason why they are chosen.
> 
> To understand the following information you need to understand that not all crimpers or pins are created equally. Molex has a chart in which it defines what is a good crimp and what is a bad crimp in its own standards - but from an experienced sleevers point of view there is only one good crimp, and that is the bite crimp. This is due to the bite crimp "biting" into the insulation of the pin. This by itself does not hold the pin onto the wire, but it reinforces the crimp and makes it stronger.
> 
> When you make a wire for sleeving, the wire will be tugged on and played around with quite a bit, so you want to make sure the the crimp is as strong as you can get it. To simply rely upon the crimp portion that holds onto the wire will result in a weak crimp and you will most likely rip the crimp off the wire. Now Molex itself from its own stand point says that the crimps in the middle and right are acceptable to which I would agree with for any other application besides sleeving. For sleeving we want the best crimp with the most secure pin and IMO and all professional sleevers this will always be the "bite" crimp.
> 
> Here is an example taken from hchristian's experience with different pins and tools.
> 
> _"1st wire : MDPC-X crimp with MDPC-X pin create an "m" shape that bites into the insulation, making the contact real solid.
> 
> 2nd wire : MDPC-X crimp with ConnectX pin create an "m" shape as well, however, as mentioned earlier, due to the shorter "wings", the pin doesn't bite into the insulation as much.
> 
> 3rd wire : Han Long crimp with MDPC-X pin. The tool simply sucks to be honest, it was the reason I decided to buy the MDPC-X crimping tool despite the cost to ship internationally. The crimp is unable to create an "m" shape, it simply folds the "wings". Simply pulling on it slides the cable off the pin unfortunately."
> _
> 
> So now that you see what the two available tools can do (the Han Long [HT-225D] tool is the same at both Performance PCs and FrozenCPU) lets talk a moment about pins before we continue.
> 
> Most pins that are sold are non-OEM pins, this means that a manufacturer other then Molex has made them and sold them to our online shops. The problem with this is that they decided it would be a good idea to make the wings that hold the wire smaller and then sell the longer winged pins as "double wire" pins.
> 
> Any experienced sleever will tell you that these pins "shorter wings" are garbage as they don't allow the proper bite into the wire to hold and make a strong crimp. Which leads us back to what was mentioned in the into of this question. You need to have the longer wings to provide a good bite into the insulation to make a strong crimp.
> 
> So what we can take away from this is that only the original Molex brand crimps should be bought even if you are just using the hans tool as they will allow the best grip.
> 
> Here is the part number for those pins -a reel is a string of pins while a bag is pins not on a reel- :
> Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female Pins - 39-00-0038 (Reel)
> Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female Pins - 39-00-0039 (Bag)
> Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male Pins - 39-00-0040 (Reel) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
> Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male Pins - 39-00-0041 (Bag) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
> 
> *And finally, here is a list of crimpers that should be considered for purchase:*
> 
> *Han Long [HT-225D]* _For a couple crimps or a small project (not recommended for a full set because of the way it crimps the "wings")_ : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277
> Note: these can be found at many different mod shops including FTW, FrozenCPU, Performance-pcs and others.
> 
> *MDPC Crimper* _The best for the best price (this will produce perfect crimps all the time that will hold also it comes with pins):_ http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimpzange.htm
> Note: This is the german site and it is sold on the international site but his shop times are limited
> 
> *Molex Brand Ratchet Crimper* _This may be the best tool as its made by Molex, but the price is way out of range for most people:_ http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=97M9440&CMP=AFC-GB100000001


----------



## Hukkel

I have another question; sleeving fan cables. Is re-using the fan cable connectors doable? Or is it best to always buy new ones? I can't find how to reuse them. Can one just "up" the pins you pressed down and stick them back in the connector? Or is that a bad idea?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> Today I bought the mdpcx crimper. I previously had a performance pcs crimper. My advice, dont bother with anything other than the pricey mdpcx one. You will regret it. The ppcs crimper is supposed to be adequate but after playing with it a bit and adjusting the ratcheting strength, ive found it makes horrible crimps. A pound of force will pull these things out with ease. Buy the mdpcx crimper and nothing else.


This makes me happy I spent the extra for the MDPC Crimper.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> I have another question; sleeving fan cables. Is re-using the fan cable connectors doable? Or is it best to always buy new ones? I can't find how to reuse them. Can one just "up" the pins you pressed down and stick them back in the connector? Or is that a bad idea?


The reason you can't find how to reuse them, is because it's not recommended. While you might only need a few connectors, and not want to buy ones, reusing them will most likely wind up bending the 'wings' that grip into the insulation off. They are very fragile, and not designed to be reused.


----------



## Big Elf

You can very gently prise the retaining clip on the connector back up again with a craft knife, it only needs a gentle touch to do it. On some of mine I've done it a few times without a problem. Very rarely the fan pin is poor quality (can't remember the manufacturer) and removing them bends them out of shape and I replace all of them if that happens. For such a small pin they're generally very robust if handled gently.

Edit: I was typing this while Demented was posting.


----------



## Hukkel

Thing is, I do not own a krimpingtool. And was hoping I could do without. I already ordered the other MDPC tools. Still needs to be delivered.

But I was really hoping I didn't have to buy the other tool for maybe 3 or 4 fans. My Enermax fans are already sleeved. And I don't know if my Revoltecs will also be (probably not).


----------



## Big Elf

If you're careful you should be fine.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> I have another question; sleeving fan cables. Is re-using the fan cable connectors doable? Or is it best to always buy new ones? I can't find how to reuse them. Can one just "up" the pins you pressed down and stick them back in the connector? Or is that a bad idea?


I agree with both BE and Demented.

Its not really recommended and there is no info on it as they really should be recrimped - HOWEVER, if you are in the situation you are in I would give it a go as well. Just take your time and be careful like BE said.

Also you may just want to buy new pins and then use a needle nose pliers to crimp them down (again, not recommended but it will work in a pinch)


----------



## nawon72

What other "pins" would need to be re-crimped once removed? I can't imagine re-doing a 24-"pin".


----------



## Hukkel

I have the same question. So for the better one re-crimps fan connectors. But the PCI and 4-Molex and 24 and 8-pin motherboard connectors? Can they be re-used because you put the pin back in with hot heatshrink which then expands inside of it? Or do you also put the pins back up before putting the connectors back in?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> What other "pins" would need to be re-crimped once removed? I can't imagine re-doing a 24-"pin".


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> I have the same question. So for the better one re-crimps fan connectors. But the PCI and 4-Molex and 24 and 8-pin motherboard connectors? Can they be re-used because you put the pin back in with hot heatshrink which then expands inside of it? Or do you also put the pins back up before putting the connectors back in?


He was talking about taking a fan pin that has already been crimped and "uncrimping it" with a needle nose pliers or such and then using a needle nose pliers or such to crimp it back on a new wire. This method is risky and may or may not work, but if you are in a bind and don't have a tool or more crimps then he might as well give it a go. By no means is it a "preferred" method. Also it can be used on any crimp, the risk is breaking the crimp fins and not crimping it properly on the new wire.


----------



## Furion92

I'm still not sure whether Hukkel really wanted to use his pins on other wires.

For me it was more like the question, whether he could remove the fan cables from the connector housing and put them back in after sleeving the cable.
Might be that I misunderstood his question, but he wouldn't have to buy new crimps and a crimping tool for simple fan cable sleeving, or would he?

And if the question about "re-using" the eps pins was the same, he could of course use an exacto knife to bend the wings back to their original position.

So Hukkel, what did you really mean?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> I'm still not sure whether Hukkel really wanted to use his pins on other wires.
> For me it was more like the question, whether he could remove the fan cables from the connector housing and put them back in after sleeving the cable.
> Might be that I misunderstood his question, but he wouldn't have to buy new crimps and a crimping tool for simple fan cable sleeving, or would he?
> And if the question about "re-using" the eps pins was the same, he could of course use an exacto knife to bend the wings back to their original position.
> So Hukkel, what did you really mean?


On second read you may be right lol - lets see what he says.


----------



## Hukkel

Indeed I meant; I remove a pin (3 actually) from a fan connector, I sleeve the pair into 1 nice sleeving but then I have to but the 3 pins back into one connector again. I meant if that possible in a decent way or will I have murdered the pins and will need to get the pins off and put a new pin on with a crimptool







Soory about that, I am from Holland. My Englsh is decent but explaining stuff sometimes is hard when searching for the correct terms.









I also have two additional questions (while we're at it lol). Look at these pictures. I received my set of tool from Nils (HOORAY). Got me a "Tim-edition", how awesome is that?









But I already stumbled on two issues. First of all; that big metal ring around one end of the 6-pin. Does that have function or can it be removed?

Secondly; I used the tool on the black connector and the pins come flying out. Now I want to get the pins from the green connector as well but I can't get them to come out. I am doing something wrong here? Aren't both sides supposed to have the same pins and therefore shouldn't I use the same technique?




























The green connector goes into the PSU and the black one into the GFX card. But they look exactly the same :/

HELP!!!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Indeed I meant; I remove a pin (3 actually) from a fan connector, I sleeve the pair into 1 nice sleeving but then I have to but the 3 pins back into one connector again. I meant if that possible in a decent way or will I have murdered the pins and will need to get the pins off and put a new pin on with a crimptool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soory about that, I am from Holland. My Englsh is decent but explaining stuff sometimes is hard when searching for the correct terms.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have two additional questions (while we're at it lol). Look at these pictures. I received my set of tool from Nils (HOORAY). Got me a "Tim-edition", how awesome is that?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I already stumbled on two issues. First of all; that big metal ring around one end of the 6-pin. Does that have function or can it be removed?
> Secondly; I used the tool on the black connector and the pins come flying out. Now I want to get the pins from the green connector as well but I can't get them to come out. I am doing something wrong here? Aren't both sides supposed to have the same pins and therefore shouldn't I use the same technique?
> The green connector goes into the PSU and the black one into the GFX card. But they look exactly the same :/
> HELP!!!


Ahh, that makes sense - look at the fan sleeving video and it will show you how to handle those with style







(link is in my sig)

That metal ring is a ferrite bead you can remove it and throw it away and you wont be affected.

The green connector might just be a bit harder to remove, push the wire into the connector - insert the tool - and then pull to get the cable out. I explain how to do this in my MDPC Sleeving Video @ 2:10 (link in my sig)


----------



## Hukkel

Thanks for the help Dr. L. I will get one of your tools soon. Keep doing what you do and keep those video's coming!


----------



## The viking

Is there a guide for heatshrink-less sleeving, that was made by Lutro0?
I've seen alot of his work here on the sleeving-part of the forum, and the heatshrink-less cables are amazing! Yet, I have not seen his, or anyones guide til heatshrink-less sleeving.
Would be much appreciated!


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The viking*
> 
> Is there a guide for heatshrink-less sleeving, that was made by Lutro0?
> I've seen alot of his work here on the sleeving-part of the forum, and the heatshrink-less cables are amazing! Yet, I have not seen his, or anyones guide til heatshrink-less sleeving.
> Would be much appreciated!


I think he's planning to do a guide. In the meantime this *thread* is worth checking out for MDPC-X 'heatshrinkless' sleeving.


----------



## The viking

Thank you very much Big Elf!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I think he's planning to do a guide. In the meantime this *thread* is worth checking out for MDPC-X 'heatshrinkless' sleeving.


Thats an ok guide, but please note that the sleeve needs to be positioned after the first crimp, that guide shows you melting the crud out of the wire and sleeve which is not a great method for heatshrinkless. If you put it after the first crimp the plastic will use the first crimp as a holder and the melt wont show outside of the connector. You will need much less heat then you think.


----------



## Buska103

$55 for a damn hand tool







whoever is manufacturing these is making quite a large profit margin









http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/308030.pdf
would figure 3 work for decent crimping? I assume if it sucks hard I could duplicate the "genuine" molex crimpers and file a heart out of the top half of the crimping part.
They go for $17.43 too...

any input?


----------



## Big Elf

I'll be curious to see if that one works OK. The more expensive tool is due to it being a ratcheting crimper which crimps both the wire and insulation crimp in one go to the same pressure every time. The Molex Hand Tool *63811-1000* is also a 2 stage, non-ratcheting crimper that works well but just takes a bit of practice and a bit longer to learn to use. It's still pricey compared to the one you linked to though.


----------



## Buska103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I'll be curious to see if that one works OK. The more expensive tool is due to it being a ratcheting crimper which crimps both the wire and insulation crimp in one go to the same pressure every time. The Molex Hand Tool *63811-1000* is also a 2 stage, non-ratcheting crimper that works well but just takes a bit of practice and a bit longer to learn to use. It's still pricey compared to the one you linked to though.


Eh, to me, a crimper is a crimper. I have no idea how companies can charge $100> for a rather simple hand tool.. its blasphemy. You put the wire in, you close the tool, the metal clips go into the top half of the crimp tool, coil around the top, and dig into the insulation of the wire.
I think I'll take a gamble and get that $17 crimper.

I can get the crimper you linked for $38 USD, but at that point I think I would rather dish out an extra $20, get a MDPC-X crimper, and have a clear mind.


----------



## aqualad

I have this one from skygeek it did an OK job for molex type (4pin). However it does not work well for 24ATX,PCIe, or MB 8 pin which are all the same. it does crimp the actual wire but when it comes to the insulation crimp it just destroys it. The one shown above my post is better for the small mini jr pins

Please pardon the crappy pictures




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Big Elf

Well I can say that the MDPC-X tool is a precision tool providing extremely precise crimps time after time all to the the same standard. To some extent the other ratcheting tools like the 225D and SN-28 are also precision tools but not providing the same secure crimp that the MDPC-Tool does.

I don't really want you to waste your money and I do doubt that the one you're thinking of getting will crimp ATX pins very well if at all.


----------



## Demented

Never used the cheaper crimpers. I went right for the MDPC-X one. I have to say, it is a quality tool well worth the money. It provides nice, clean, secure and proper crimps.


----------



## Snowmen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I'll be curious to see if that one works OK. The more expensive tool is due to it being a ratcheting crimper which crimps both the wire and insulation crimp in one go to the same pressure every time. The Molex Hand Tool *63811-1000* is also a 2 stage, non-ratcheting crimper that works well but just takes a bit of practice and a bit longer to learn to use. It's still pricey compared to the one you linked to though.


I use one of these but to make a crimp, you need to crimp the right metal "blade" then the left one and repeat for the insulation and wire parts. Basically, it's 4 crimps/pin and it doesn't do such a great job to be honest...

Edit: Actually it looks a bit different... Maybe it's not the same but I wouldn't recommend the one I use to anyone buying a new crimping tool.


----------



## Big Elf

With the Molex 63811-1000 tool and genuine molex pins you only need to do 2 crimps, 1 on the wire and 1 on the insulation. They're robust crimps but take a bit longer to do. If anyone does get one I've found the following crimps sizes work best:

Molex Fan & Harwin Motherboard/USB pins - Wire crimp 1.6mm, Insulation crimp 1.8mm
Molex ATX Female & Male Pins - Wire crimp 2.0, Insulation crimp 2.8mm
Modsmart Molex Type pin for hard disk/auxiliary connectors - Wire Crimp 2.3mm, Insulation Crimp 2.8mm (you need to slightly bend the rear wings in manually first). I haven't yet mastered crimping dual wires.
Phobya Molex Type pin for hard disk/auxiliary connectors - For some reason I can't do a consistent crimp with these pins.


----------



## Buska103

eh, I might just hold my tongue when I click the buy button for the MDPC-X crimper.
Does it do 16 gauge wire? I have a feeling it's 18-30 just like the generic ones...


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> With the Molex 63811-1000 tool and genuine molex pins you only need to do 2 crimps, 1 on the wire and 1 on the insulation. They're robust crimps but take a bit longer to do. If anyone does get one I've found the following crimps sizes work best:
> 
> Molex Fan & Harwin Motherboard/USB pins - Wire crimp 1.6mm, Insulation crimp 1.8mm
> Molex ATX Female & Male Pins - Wire crimp 2.0, Insulation crimp 2.8mm
> Modsmart Molex Type pin for hard disk/auxiliary connectors - Wire Crimp 2.3mm, Insulation Crimp 2.8mm (you need to slightly bend the rear wings in manually first). I haven't yet mastered crimping dual wires.
> Phobya Molex Type pin for hard disk/auxiliary connectors - For some reason I can't do a consistent crimp with these pins.


Can you explain in detail how you measured the crimp heights? Also, Molex has reference crimp heights in their Application Tooling Specification Sheets (ex: http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/ATS-638190900.pdf).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I'll be curious to see if that one works OK. The more expensive tool is due to it being a ratcheting crimper which crimps both the wire and insulation crimp in one go to the same pressure every time. The Molex Hand Tool *63811-1000* is also a 2 stage, non-ratcheting crimper that works well but just takes a bit of practice and a bit longer to learn to use. It's still pricey compared to the one you linked to though.
> 
> 
> 
> Eh, to me, a crimper is a crimper. I have no idea how companies can charge $100> for a rather simple hand tool.. its blasphemy. You put the wire in, you close the tool, the metal clips go into the top half of the crimp tool, coil around the top, and dig into the insulation of the wire.
> I think I'll take a gamble and get that $17 crimper.
> 
> I can get the crimper you linked for $38 USD, but at that point I think I would rather dish out an extra $20, get a MDPC-X crimper, and have a clear mind.
Click to expand...

And a computer is a computer to someone who doesn't know any better. But those who are knowledgeable in the area know there is a difference, and it may matter enough to them that they pay significantly more. E.g. choosing a 3930K over a 2500K for rendering videos since you value your time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> eh, I might just hold my tongue when I click the buy button for the MDPC-X crimper.
> Does it do 16 gauge wire? I have a feeling it's 18-30 just like the generic ones...


It does 18-22AWG + 24-30AWG. Source. You can check with Nils if you like.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Can you explain in detail how you measured the crimp heights? Also, Molex has reference crimp heights in their Application Tooling Specification Sheets (ex: http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/ATS-638190900.pdf).


I don't measure the crimp heights. If it matches the crimp produced by the MDPC tool (for Molex ATX and fan pins) visually and the pin doesn't pull off with a hard pull I'm happy.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Can you explain in detail how you measured the crimp heights? Also, Molex has reference crimp heights in their Application Tooling Specification Sheets (ex: http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/ats/ATS-638190900.pdf).
> 
> 
> 
> I don't measure the crimp heights. If it matches the crimp produced by the MDPC tool (for Molex ATX and fan pins) visually and the pin doesn't pull off with a hard pull I'm happy.
Click to expand...

I thought you had measured them since you posted this:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Molex Fan & Harwin Motherboard/USB pins - Wire crimp 1.6mm, Insulation crimp 1.8mm
Molex ATX Female & Male Pins - Wire crimp 2.0, Insulation crimp 2.8mm
Modsmart Molex Type pin for hard disk/auxiliary connectors - Wire Crimp 2.3mm, Insulation Crimp 2.8mm (you need to slightly bend the rear wings in manually first). I haven't yet mastered crimping dual wires.
Phobya Molex Type pin for hard disk/auxiliary connectors - For some reason I can't do a consistent crimp with these pins.



Where did you get those measurements from?


----------



## Big Elf

Ah, I see what you mean. Those are the measurements on the tool.


----------



## mandrix

I so wish I had bought a better crimper. I have one I bought from FTW PC, it's alright if you fiddle with it a while but not ideal. The crimpers that don't have the little "u" shape that catches the wings and folds them back in to bite into the insulation just don't do a great job. Plus sometimes the pin will get a bend ----_____ and look like that instead of being perfectly straight.
Is there not anything that can be bought for a reasonable price in the US that does not a good, but great job? I've spent so much on w/c fittings on my new build the book keeper is giving me the stinkeye. lol.
...especially since I told her a week ago I was through ordering parts. But I really want a good crimper, dang it.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Ah, I see what you mean. Those are the measurements on the tool.


But how do you know which conductor and insulation crimp to use with the pins you mentioned? I couldn't figure out what the measurements on the tool are referring to.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I so wish I had bought a better crimper. I have one I bought from FTW PC, it's alright if you fiddle with it a while but not ideal. The crimpers that don't have the *little "u" shape* that catches the wings and folds them back in to bite into the insulation just don't do a great job. Plus sometimes the pin will get a bend ----_____ and look like that instead of being perfectly straight.
> *Is there not anything that can be bought for a reasonable price in the US that does not a good, but great job?* I've spent so much on w/c fittings on my new build the book keeper is giving me the stinkeye. lol.
> ...especially since I told her a week ago I was through ordering parts. But I really want a good crimper, dang it.


It doesn't look like a "u" shape at all (to me). I would say it's "m", and it performs a "B" crimp. See this link: http://www.schleuniger-na.com/DesktopDefault.aspx/tabid-64/129_read-11671/

This should work the best for the money (click to see it in action), and the price recently dropped from $38 to $30 (without shipping). If someone on OCN doesn't buy and review it soon then I should have it done within a month. The price is irresistible to me at this point, since the MDPC crimper is about $72 (shipped, IIRC).


----------



## Big Elf

Neither could I so I worked through each one until I found the ones that did the best and most robust crimp. Some are pretty obviously wrong as they either crush the sides of the pin, don't roll over the wings or flatten out the wings when crimped. I did find that if you use non-molex pins then you sometimes have to use different crimp notches and even then with some of them I couldn't get a good crimp.

It also took me a while to work out what the best pressure was for each of the wire and insulation crimps.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Neither could I so I worked through each one until I found the ones that did the best and most robust crimp. Some are pretty obviously wrong as they either crush the sides of the pin, don't roll over the wings or flatten out the wings when crimped. I did find that if you use non-molex pins then you sometimes have to use different crimp notches and even then with some of them I couldn't get a good crimp.
> 
> It also took me a while to work out what the best pressure was for each of the wire and insulation crimps.


When I read this and one of your previous posts, I get the impression that you have the 63811-1000. Otherwise how would you have "worked through each [anvil and punch]" to "[find] the ones that [do] the best and most robust crimp".

Please state whether or not you have the 63811-1000, and let us know what tool you're using to to find the right crimp height. Otherwise I'm going to be very


----------



## Big Elf

I thought I'd mentioned it in an earlier post. It's the Molex 63811-1000 and I'm using a visual comparison with a crimp from the MDPC-X tool and a pull test.


----------



## mandrix

Ah, OK! $30 is much better. I imagine it would take some practice as BE says to get the crimp right. Crap, I just ordered the molex extractor and some housings from Newark, might could have slipped in the crimper. I'll check it out at some point, though.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> Crap, I just ordered the molex extractor and some housings from Newark, could have slipped in the crimper. I'll check it out at some point, though.


That's why I'm waiting until I have everything I may need in a list so I can avoid paying more for shipping. Measure 3 times, cut once, like Lutro0









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> I thought I'd mentioned it in an earlier post. It's the Molex 63811-1000 and I'm using a visual comparison with a crimp from the MDPC-X tool and a pull test.


Sorry if I'm starting to annoy you now, but could you say "Yes, I have the 63811-1000" or "No, I don't have the 63811-1000". And I don't know how you could be doing a visual comparison, unless you had the 63811-1000.









Maybe I'm not thinking clearly since It's the day after getting up at 5am, 1h plane, 4h airport, 6h plane, 2h airport, 5h plane, 9h time zone change (backwards), sleep late (2am?, was online since I didn't have much internet for 3w), wake up, sleep, wake up...


----------



## mandrix

I take it BE does have that crimper. Just PM him if he doesn't post back.


----------



## Big Elf

I thought it was clear but perhaps not, I do have the 63811-1000.

A word of warning though. The MDPC-X tool is pretty much 'fire and forget', you put the pin in and then the wire, squeeze it until it releases and you end up with a perfect crimp. The 63811-1000 relies on you getting the pressure right *every* time. It can happen that you have what looks like a good crimp but it fails the pull test meaning you need to carefully check every crimp you do.

I use the 63811-1000 for fan and motherboard pins as, due to failing eyesight, I find it easier to see whether the wire is correctly located in the tool compared to the ratcheting crimpers.


----------



## Lutro0

I think I would throw the non ratcheting hand crimper out the window if I had to use it.


----------



## Demented

Yeah, I love the MDPC-X crimper. Such a solidly built, well designed tool.


----------



## Buska103

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&rt=nc&nma=true&item=260956609358&si=iTLz2pqCy9ilkbK%252FMIl4ztDFljE%253D&viewitem=&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc








wish I saw that 5 months ago

anyway, my HX750 is mainly 16awg (psu cables, most mobo cables, etc), and I really don't want to get the MDPC-X crimper because it doesn't do 16awg wires very well (Lutro0 told me that 1 wing on the crimp contact always breaks)... and I'm not very comfortable changing all the wires in my PSU to a higher gauge







stupid corsair, being all paranoid and overkill about wire thickness grr


----------



## Big Elf

While I haven't crimped many 16 AWG wires I've never had a crimp break or be less robust than those on the 18 AWG wires. It tends to compress the insulation a little bit more but that's about it.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> ... sometimes the pin will get a bend ----_____ and look like that instead of being perfectly straight...


I only just noticed this. A couple of things that can cause the pin to bend are if too much insulation is stripped from the wire and the wire then extends too far and goes into the front of the pin (mating section). Also it can be caused if the pin is pushed too far into the tool. Either pulling the pin back a tiny fraction before crimping or putting your finger on the tip of the pin when crimping will help avoid it.


----------



## aqualad

I'm not sure if this question was already answered, anyway I would like to know if the MDPC crimper crimps all the connectors.... ATX 24,PCIe, ESP, SATA power connector, 4 pin molex power and fan connectors.

I do have a crimper already but it does not handle 24 ATX pins well, it crush them to bits. I would like to know if the MDPC does it all so I just need one tool and be done with it. I wanted to order one today but MDPC is already close so hopefully I could get some good feedback by the time they are reopen.

Regards


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqualad*
> 
> I'm not sure if this question was already answered, anyway I would like to know if the MDPC crimper crimps all the connectors.... ATX 24,PCIe, ESP, SATA power connector, 4 pin molex power and fan connectors.
> I do have a crimper already but it does not handle 24 ATX pins well, it crush them to bits. I would like to know if the MDPC does it all so I just need one tool and be done with it. I wanted to order one today but MDPC is already close so hopefully I could get some good feedback by the time they are reopen.
> Regards


Hands down its my favorite crimper to use. I have a little issues with fan crimps, but a little adjustment takes care of that.


----------



## Big Elf

It's worth pointing out that crimping too many 4 pin Molex type connector pins can damage the 'v' that produces the 'bite' on the crimps.

I thought it was just me that had problems with the fan pins. Nils implied I was an idiot


----------



## Furion92

What kind of problems do you have with the fan crimps?

I've wrecked the first 5 crimps or so while I tried to figure out the right way/orientation to insert them into the tool (Nils' "manual" wasn't the best I've ever seen







).
But after I've got the first one right, I've never had any problems again.

My wire was 22AWG PVC with an outer diameter of 1.65mm.


----------



## Big Elf

With me the crimp gets 'stuck' in the tool. If I release the tool manually before it automatically releases it doesn't get stuck but also doesn't crimp properly. It's mainly with 24 AWG but I've used other gauges as well. It doesn't do it with the motherboard pins just the fan ones. It doesn't really matter as I use the Molex hand tool to crimp them.


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Hands down its my favorite crimper to use. I have a little issues with fan crimps, but a little adjustment takes care of that.


So the consensus is that it crimps everything,








however Lotro0 and Big Elf is having some problems with fan pins.


----------



## Big Elf

But I'm an idiot









Bear in mind the warning about the 4 pin Molex pins though. I think Nils mentions it in the guide he sends out with the tool.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> But I'm an idiot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bear in mind the warning about the 4 pin Molex pins though. I think Nils mentions it in the guide he sends out with the tool.


+1 on the round molex pins. I have a spare mdpc crimper that I use for those, as it will and does eat up the "v" bite on the crimper.


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> But I'm an idiot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bear in mind the warning about the 4 pin Molex pins though. I think Nils mentions it in the guide he sends out with the tool.


Hehe, we are all idiots(in a good way) when it comes to our love for this hobby.









About the molex 4 pins, I do have one that does a very good job with those pins so I will delegate 4 pin molex duty to that one and save some ware and tear on the MDPC


----------



## Big Elf

I use the Blue handled HT-225D tool that PPCs stock for the 4 pin molex pins.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I use the Blue handled HT-225D tool that PPCs stock for the 4 pin molex pins.


I use to use that for fan pins lol AND WHO YOU CALLEN AN IDIOT


----------



## Big Elf

I used to use it for fan pins, then the SN-28 and now the Molex 63811-1000 hand tool.

Nope, apparently I'm the only idiot who couldn't do fan pins with the MDPC-X tool

Oh, apparently there's someone else


----------



## nawon72

So now I need the MDPC crimper, and another crimper (e.g. 63811-1000) for 4 pin peripheral pins (e.g. 02-06-2101) to avoid damaging the notch in the MDPC punch? How many 4 pin peripheral crimps do you think it take for the MDPC's punch to wear out?

MDPC Crimper: ~$72 shipped

63811-1000: guessing ~$38 shipped

Total: $110

Might as well spend $45-$75 more for a NIB(New, In Box) ratcheting Molex crimper like the one linked in the FAQ. *Note:* I haven't really looked into the prices of the ratcheting Molex crimpers, so I was guessing the price range. But I have seen a NIB one for $156 shipped. The price may vary between models due to demand.


----------



## Big Elf

I haven't used the MDPC-X crimper for the 4 pin molex type pins so Lutro0 is the one to tell us how long it lasts.

While I quite like the 63811-1000 bearing in mind it's limitations and can crimp the ModSmart molex pins on a single wire I can't crimp dual wires with it. I'm not saying it's impossible just that after about 20-25 pins I still haven't done it successfully even once, it just destroys the rear wing on the insulation crimp. Also I had difficulty crimping the Phobya molex pins (probably about a 20% success rate and they looked ugly) so the tool seems to be sensitive to the exact dimensions of the pin you use or maybe it's just that you need a lot of experience with it that I haven't yet got.

I use the HT-225D tool for crimping the 4 pin molex pins and it will crimp dual wires, it doesn't look pretty but it's a reasonably robust crimp. You can also crimp those pins with small nosed pliers quite easily and that's what I used to do before I got a crimping tool.


----------



## mandrix

I've been using the FTW PC crimper version for fan pins. I manage to screw up at least 1 in 3, but that's because I can hardly see the darn things. But I can usually get a good crimp if I use needle nose pliers to fold over the bare wire crimps before sticking in the crimper. The pins I have are those darned "winged" type from the way they are joined on a strip, but I just clip them off with my side cutters. I finally ordered some fan pins from PPCS after seeing Lutro0's link and hope they work better, although I don't have any more to do at this time I like to be prepared. Only problem is there is only a few on a strip from PPCS and I like to have plenty for when I inevitably crimp one wrong and break it.

When I DO get it right with the tool I have it will crimp the entire pin and fold over the insulation perfectly. ATX pins are actually harder for me to crimp and I've had to clip and shorten wires a few times, though it's not really noticeable.
If I ever see a cheap deal on a good crimper though I will get it, I've just put so much into this build that the wife is starting to grumble a bit.







"what did you buy now?" "just some more compression fittings" says me. "for $100? how many did you get?!!" "just a few snakes and triples" says me. lol.

EDIT: I forgot to ask, does someone have a link for the small pins that go in the mobo USB 2.0 plugs? I'm assuming those and the front panel things like HDD led's ect that plug into mobo are the same pins? Or not?
I got some 2, 5, & 10 pin housings from Newark and Mouser with the proper spacing, (thanks to Big Elf's links!) just don't have the pins I need....


----------



## mandrix

Ah, Lutro0, I don't know if you have this in any of your guides or want to add it but: Some (all?) Seasonic branded ATX cables have of course the normal 24 pin housing on one end, on the psu side there is both 10 pin and 18 pin housings. The US supplier for Seasonic is Antron Electronics, the Sales Manager's name is George Lai [email protected] They have both white and black housings.
ModDIY in Hong Kong has these connectors as well which might be better shipping for non-US residents, IDK.

I pretty much destroyed mine trying to get the pins out and had to order new ones to make up new cables.
HTH someone.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Ah, Lutro0, I don't know if you have this in any of your guides or want to add it but: Some (all?) Seasonic branded ATX cables have of course the normal 24 pin housing on one end, on the psu side there is both 10 pin and 18 pin housings. The US supplier for Seasonic is Antron Electronics, the Sales Manager's name is George Lai [email protected] They have both white and black housings.
> ModDIY in Hong Kong has these connectors as well which might be better shipping for non-US residents, IDK.
> I pretty much destroyed mine trying to get the pins out and had to order new ones to make up new cables.
> HTH someone.


Great info, very helpful! I didn't see anything about these connectors in Lutro0's threads, but I'm sure he'll add this as soon as he gets it!

Thanks, bud!


----------



## Big Elf

The pins for the USB mobo connectors are the *Harwin M20-1180042* and yes, they're the same as the other mobo pins for the power/reset etc.

Thanks for pm'ing me the details of Antron Electronics earlier. I sent an email on the 9 July but he hasn't replied yet. I might have made the mistake of telling him I was from the UK.

I daren't add up the cost of my fittings









I believe the housings from modDIY also come with the pins so are priced a bit more than they should be (at least double). When I put them in my cart I was put off with the high shipping costs.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Ah, Lutro0, I don't know if you have this in any of your guides or want to add it but: Some (all?) Seasonic branded ATX cables have of course the normal 24 pin housing on one end, on the psu side there is both 10 pin and 18 pin housings. The US supplier for Seasonic is Antron Electronics, the Sales Manager's name is George Lai [email protected] They have both white and black housings.
> ModDIY in Hong Kong has these connectors as well which might be better shipping for non-US residents, IDK.
> I pretty much destroyed mine trying to get the pins out and had to order new ones to make up new cables.
> HTH someone.


Can you PM me this as well as the prices for them. Thanks bud!


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Great info, very helpful! I didn't see anything about these connectors in Lutro0's threads, but I'm sure he'll add this as soon as he gets it!
> Thanks, bud!


You're welcome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The pins for the USB mobo connectors are the *Harwin M20-1180042* and yes, they're the same as the other mobo pins for the power/reset etc.
> Thanks for pm'ing me the details of Antron Electronics earlier. I sent an email on the 9 July but he hasn't replied yet. I might have made the mistake of telling him I was from the UK.
> I daren't add up the cost of my fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the housings from modDIY also come with the pins so are priced a bit more than they should be (at least double). When I put them in my cart I was put off with the high shipping costs.


lol, he was pretty quick with me.
Thanks for the part number!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Can you PM me this as well as the prices for them. Thanks bud!


Sure, let me see if I can find the sales order.


----------



## mandrix

@ Lutro0 ,PM sent w/ details.
Here are Antron Electronics prices for Seasonic parts: (the ones I know of)

Full 24 pin to 10+18 cable $10.00
10 pin connector $2.00 ea
18 pin connector $2.00 ea
24 pin connector $2.00 ea

Fair price on the 24 pin cable, I got one to use while I've been sleeving since I FUBAR'd the original.







Shipping charges via US Mail was $7.00 from California to Florida shipping that list above. They did tell me sometimes they run out of the black connectors, I have no idea why.

I finally did get a genuine Molex extractor tool, works so much better than the kit I got from Fcpu, whatever brand that kit is. Spring steel makes all the difference, plus the length!


----------



## Big Elf

Brief update as there's too many posts and quotes to easily change them but the mobo/USB pins to get are the *Harwin M20-1180046*. The Harwin M20-1180042 are the gold plated version and a bit more expensive.


----------



## mandrix

Thanks for getting back with the PM, BE, too late to get an order in yesterday but I got too much going on anyway. I looked at that other link and thought, hmmm, almost $6 for one pin?? lol. I don't think as many pins as I screw up I need the gold plated ones.









I'm glad people are looking for inexpensive crimpers. I think that pricetag on the better ones puts people off for something they may use for one set of cables and never again.
When looking at ebay a while back I saw a short demo about one made in HK or somewhere in the East that looked good. Don't remember price now but the short vid showed a demo of how the crimper properly folded the wings back into the insulation for a good bite. Need to look for that again, in case anyone's tried it.


----------



## Big Elf

It should have been $6 for 100 pins, it depends how they display the packaging size.


----------



## mandrix

The ones I looked at were 5-6 $ each, not listed as lots of 100 (not gold plated) but I think that was at Mouser?
Nope I was wrong, I see the (per 100) now. DOH! I was in a hurry as it was late and I wanted to get an order in b4 the weekend. My bad. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Harwin/M20-1180042/?qs=pYcASEcTDE72hXWmljNW1jiGQzHJHFu%252b

BTW anyone looked at or know more about this crimper?
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_338678_-1?CID=PDF


----------



## Big Elf

I've been caught out with unit sizes before at Farnell's.

That crimper is the same one as PPCs and others sell, the Han Long 225D. It doesn't do a bite on the crimp for ATX pins so they're not very secure. It's good for fan pins and the 4 pin molex type pins for both single and dual wires. It was the first crimping tool I bought a couple of years ago and despite its limitations I'm quite fond of it.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> The ones I looked at were 5-6 $ each, not listed as lots of 100 (not gold plated) but I think that was at Mouser?
> Nope I was wrong, I see the (per 100) now. DOH! I was in a hurry as it was late and I wanted to get an order in b4 the weekend. My bad. http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Harwin/M20-1180042/?qs=pYcASEcTDE72hXWmljNW1jiGQzHJHFu%252b
> 
> BTW anyone looked at or know more about this crimper?
> http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_338678_-1?CID=PDF


That's the same crimper most modding stores sell. From the OP.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> *Han Long [HT-225D]* _For a couple crimps or a small project (not recommended for a full set because of the way it crimps the "wings")_ : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277
> Note: these can be found at many different mod shops including FTW, FrozenCPU, Performance-pcs and others.





















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> That crimper is the same one as PPCs and others sell, the Han Long 225D. It doesn't do a bite on the crimp for ATX pins so they're not very secure. It's good for fan pins and the 4 pin molex type pins for both single and dual wires. It was the first crimping tool I bought a couple of years ago and despite its limitations I'm quite fond of it.


Do you have any pictures of the fan and 4pin peripheral crimps using the HT-225D? I think it would be a good idea to have a picture of the best crimp achievable using all the different tools and pins so people can see and/or compare for themselves.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Do you have any pictures of the fan and 4pin peripheral crimps using the HT-225D? I think it would be a good idea to have a picture of the best crimp achievable using all the different tools and pins so people can see and/or compare for themselves.


Not at the moment but my camera has recently had the faulty autofocus fixed so I should be able to take reasonable photos again. One slight problem for me is that I see the world out of focus anyway and with duller colours than most other people so I have problem with identifying crisp looking pictures. I'll give it a go though.

Edit: Quick test photo below:


----------



## nawon72

If you could do a more detailed closeup of the pin, that would be great. You can label it with text after uploading the if needed.

Something like this or this, but closer or more pixels if possible.

Edit: I see you just switched the picture to one with a higher resolution, and darker. But it still needs to be closer to see in detail.


----------



## Big Elf

That's about as closeup as I can get with the macro setting. It's an old camera.


----------



## nawon72

Your camera can't zoom in with macro?

I suppose you could try taking a picture through a magnifying glass or something.


----------



## Big Elf

It's 7 years old and cost about £150 and won't zoom at all with Macro. It was good in it's day but even then was easily surpassed by better more expensive cameras


----------



## Lutro0

Nawon, are you picking on BE... He is old you know.







<3

One of the videos I have lined up is a crimper lineup. I plan to have atleast 5 different crimpers (hand crimper included) I will make sure to get good photos of everything added to the OP once I get it done.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Nawon, are you picking on BE... He is old you know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <3


I'll have you young whipper-snappers know I'm only 75 although I've been told I have the eyes of a 95 year old.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I'll have you young whipper-snappers know I'm only 75 although I've been told I have the eyes of a 95 year old.


75 

One of the coolest old guys I know


----------



## nvidiaftw12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 75
> One of the coolest old guys I know


^^^


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Nawon, are you picking on BE... He is old you know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <3
> 
> One of the videos I have lined up is a crimper lineup. I plan to have atleast 5 different crimpers (hand crimper included) I will make sure to get good photos of everything added to the OP once I get it done.










I wasn't, and I didn't know actually.

Definitely looking forward to that video and the pictures, so I've subbed your YT. Any ETA on it? You may already have this planned, but make sure the pictures are as close and detailed as possible and are of the best crimp achievable (within reason). Try to get the insulation strip and strip length perfect as well so you can set a good example, just like you do with your sleeving. Refer to the Industrial Crimp Quality Handbook and Quality Crimp Handbook from Molex for guidance and examples of a perfect crimp, strip, and strip length. You may also look at the links I PMed you a while back, but the Handbooks should be sufficient.

Are you planning to take crimp cross sections photos? In case you don't know what that is, here are some excellent examples. Yours probably won't look the same, but it will be the same idea. "To evaluate the insulation section, cut the wire flush with the back of the terminal." (pg. 7, ICQH). Then you should be able to clearly see the insulation crimp, like on pg. 20 of the QCH. I recommend you take a photo of it for each crimp to be thorough.

I think its pretty much the same procedure for the conductor crimp (cut flush with the back of the bell mouth), but I couldn't find any information on it in the handbooks. So if you can't get it work, then don't worry to much about it since the insulation crimp should tell you the whole story, unless the conductors punch and anvil spacing is way off. But you should see it anyways in the overall crimp photo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I'll have you young whipper-snappers know I'm only 75 although I've been told I have the eyes of a 95 year old.
> 
> 
> 
> 75
> 
> One of the coolest old guys I know
Click to expand...









I wouldn't have guessed after he ninja'd me earlier. Big Elf, you may want an Eye Loupe to "aid visual evaluation of a crimp termination" (pg. 7 QCH). Even those with 20/20+ eyesight would find it useful.
















*Edit:* Thought everyone should see this:



I would guess this is what the MDPC tool does because of it's aggressive looking crimps, and seemingly exceptional pull force.

*Edit3:* Interesting that there are no extrusions on this one, even though over crimping generally causes excessive extrusions.

*Edit2:* For comparison:



And this is why I think it's very important to have crimp cross section photos.

Note that the above are of the conductor crimp. But if the insulation crimp looks "aggressive" and thoroughly pierces the insulation, then the conductor crimp would like be the same story unless the punch and anvil are misaligned or something.

The above photos are from here.

*Note:*



Spoiler: From the Quality Crimp Handbook



Individual terminals or applications may have special requirements. Tooling limitations also may not permit an attribute to be adjusted to meet optimum requirements.

Although you are not able to adjust the insulation crimp on a hand tool, an insulation crimp, which pierces the insulation, may still be considered acceptable for many applications. This criterion only applies to hand tools due to their low speed crimp cycle. If the insulation crimp pierces the insulation, the wire strands tend to move aside without damage.



I think sleeving would fall under "special requirements". So the above can be seen as my


----------



## Buska103

Anyone know where I can get male fan contacts? In fact, I need to learn how to remove them as well










things on the left side


----------



## Big Elf

*Male Fan pins* Something long and thin to depress the locking tang as you slide them out will remove them.

Black male 3 pin *fan housings*

Close up photo's *here* courtesy of Bobnova at Overclockers.com


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I'll have you young whipper-snappers know I'm only 75 although I've been told I have the eyes of a 95 year old.


Daaamn. You got me beat by 15 years, old man. lol. Now I don't feel like the oldest guy here.


----------



## Buska103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> *Male Fan pins* Something long and thin to depress the locking tang as you slide them out will remove them.
> Black male 3 pin *fan housings*
> Close up photo's *here* courtesy of Bobnova at Overclockers.com











do you know the part number though? I'm planning to buy some other stuff from Digikey so combined shipping would be awesome










Also, I need identification on this crimp contact: Sorry for the cruddy pictures, can't for the life of me figure out how to focus...





This is for a fan controller, I want to shorten the cables. I figure, while I'm at it, I may as well replace it with a lower gauge (if I can).


----------



## Big Elf

Not 100% on the part number as I haven't bought any but it could be the *Molex 08-70-0103* (Digi-Key don't have an image for it).

However if you go to *Digi-Key* and look at the housings it's suitable for then *this housing* comes up

What make and model is the fan controller? Someone found an unusual connector for a fan controller recently but I'm not sure this is the right one *JST BVH-21T-P1.1*


----------



## Buska103

NZXT Sentry Mesh. The connectors look similar to a VGA 2-pin, but it is much larger and has a "V" shaped guide rather than a straight line on the back.

sucks that the minimum order for digikey is 8000







and mouser is OOS







and the minimum shipping from PPCs is


----------



## Big Elf

Funnily enough I've got a pair of them and haven't disconnected the pins. I think you might need to contact NZXT and ask. The best I can do it identify *these* as possibilities but there's other types that look similar as well.

Edit: If you've got the pins out are there any markings on the rear wing or on the housing?


----------



## Furion92

If no one recognizes the crimp style, you've got to measure the grid dimension of the connector. Then google for pictures with the search term "*grid dimension* crimp contact". For example "3.96mm crimp contact".

@BE:
Quote:


> What make and model is the fan controller? Someone found an unusual connector for a fan controller recently but I'm not sure this is the right one JST BVH-21T-P1.1


It was me







And I'm 100% sure that this is another contact.


----------



## Big Elf

You could try *Element 14* Although they do have a minimum order (in the UK at least of £20).

I knew it was you Fury but I couldn't remember your OCN name.


----------



## Buska103

I found it on PPCs, it's actually a CCFL pin. Looks like I'll be buying the male fan contacts as well as the cathode contacts, I'll send them an email if they can ship it in an envelope though









What's the spec sheet for the CCFL contact? I want to know the minimum gauge (since I'll be rewiring it)


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> However if you go to *Digi-Key* and look at the housings it's suitable for then *this housing* comes up


Aren't the female fan housings 2.54mm pitch? I'm pretty sure the connector you linked is 2.50mm pitch.

And is this the correct 3pin fan female housing? Color for that one is natural. If you have the part number for black, let me know.

For Lutro0:



Spoiler: FAQ Changes



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> Tools - What sleeving tools will I need for a clean looking job?
> 
> You will need at least some basic tools as well as some advanced depending on how much sleeving you are going to be doing. Now you can use staples and such, but I highly discourage this as it can be more of a hassle than it needs to be if you just buy the right tools and do it right the first time.
> 
> I have made an in-depth purchasing guide as well as a video break down of each tool and why it is important.
> 
> To view the video guide, please look at my Youtube Video on the subject located here:
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Also here is the full purchase list of tools:
> 
> *Basic "Must Have" Sleeving Tools*
> *Scissors*:
> You forgot the link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Flush Side Cutter*:
> http://www.amazon.com/Eurotool-Extra-Small-Side-Cutter/dp/B002SZVE8M/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1316882902&sr=1-2
> 
> *Round Molex Remover*:
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve-kits-+-tools/sleeve-tools/pin-remover-4-pin-save-my-wallet.htm
> 
> http://www.coolerguys.com/840556093558.html?productid=840556093558
> 
> *Molex Extraction Tool. Part Number : 11-03-0044*:
> http://en.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-sleeve/sleeve-kits-+-tools/sleeve-tools/pin-remover-by-molex-the-original.htm
> 
> http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=6070184
> 
> http://ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/the-original-molex-mini-fit-jr-pin-extraction-tool.html
> 
> *Masking tape*: Found at most stores.
> 
> *Lighter*: Found at most stores.
> 
> *Heatgun*: There is too many options to list, try Amazon, Ebay, or Froogle.
> http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-840015-Black-10-Piece-Heat/dp/B000H4I67I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1316907761&sr=8-1
> 
> *Exacto Hobby Knife* : Found at most stores.
> 
> *LC Sleeving Tool*: Contact me for purchase.
> *Optional / Advanced Sleeving Tools*
> *Molex Crimper:*
> See "*Which crimpers & pins do I buy*?" below
> 
> *Self Adjusting Wire Stripper*:
> http://www.frys.com/product/1563227;jsessionid=W7ln93C7CyIimt8cf+wJbA__.node3?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
> 
> *Heat Shrink Cutting Jig* : DIY
> 
> *Big Sharp Knife* : Found in most stores.
> 
> *Soldering Kit* : Found in most hobby stores.






See changes in red.

I removed the tools from the quote as I didn't see the point of it. I suggest a spoiler if you want to keep it separated.

I've also underlined the "large bolded words". But do as you wish with them









PMed for good measure.


----------



## djgizmo

BTW, it looks like Techflex sleeving on ebay now has a ton of colors.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djgizmo*
> 
> BTW, it looks like Techflex sleeving on ebay now has a ton of colors.


You might have ran into techflex PET. Their PET brand (also what its made of) is a loose weave sleeving, mainly used for just bundling and color coding wires. Its use as a sleeving for single-sleeving is very very subpar.


----------



## CONDUCT

Hey Lutro0-
I am going to start a sleeving project and just ordered your device to help me along.
I also ordered http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12179/too-35/Lamptron_Deluxe_Modular_5-in-1_Cable_Sleeve_Modding_Tool_Kit_w_Neoprene_Tool_Case_-_Black.html now what I noticed is that on this tool I ordered it said nothing about SATA connectors. Do I need a special tool for SATA?

Thanks


----------



## Furion92

Hey CONDUCT,

I'm not Lutro0, but I can answer your question aswell









For the punchdown type of SATA connectors, you don't need any tool, just remove the cap and pull the wires out.
For the crimp style connectors, you can use a small precision screwdriver or anything else that's small and spiky. There are little plastic tabs (just like on the USB and switch connectors), just lift them slightly and pull the crimps out.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Hey CONDUCT,
> I'm not Lutro0, but I can answer your question aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the punchdown type of SATA connectors, you don't need any tool, just remove the cap and pull the wires out.
> For the crimp style connectors, you can use a small precision screwdriver or anything else that's small and spiky. There are little plastic tabs (just like on the USB and switch connectors), just lift them slightly and pull the crimps out.


+1 on what furion said, but an extra warning when you lift the tabs only do so slighty as you can ruin them easily.


----------



## CONDUCT

Next question..

I have / will be start sleeving this evening but how do I pull the connectors out of this?



















I did by this universal tool that works great but I cannot fit the tool in the modular connector to the PSU so I am stuck on this one.
Thanks


----------



## Furion92

Second one from the right looks like the right tool for the job.
Insert the tabs to the left and right of the pins and pull on the other side.


----------



## CONDUCT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Second one from the right looks like the right tool for the job.
> Insert the tabs to the left and right of the pins and pull on the other side.


That is it...

Thanks


----------



## Leiurus

Lutroo,

Firstly, many, many thanks for your tutorials, advices, review, vids, etc...about sleeving. They are what allowed me to start sleeving and are simply priceless.

I'm in the process of sleeving hundreds of cables from an Enermax PSU and they are full double wires, splits, etc...

How do you deal with double wires? Do you Y split them further down the connectors or is there a way to sleeve them both and to fit the double-sleeves into the connectors? I guess you got the picture, but let me know if you don't and I'll add a sketch.

Thanks

EDIT:

OK, I shoudl have searched harder, found the answer there:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1175308/sleeving-the-beginners-guide

Cheers


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leiurus*
> 
> Lutroo,
> Firstly, many, many thanks for your tutorials, advices, review, vids, etc...about sleeving. They are what allowed me to start sleeving and are simply priceless.
> I'm in the process of sleeving hundreds of cables from an Enermax PSU and they are full double wires, splits, etc...
> How do you deal with double wires? Do you Y split them further down the connectors or is there a way to sleeve them both and to fit the double-sleeves into the connectors? I guess you got the picture, but let me know if you don't and I'll add a sketch.
> Thanks
> EDIT:
> OK, I shoudl have searched harder, found the answer there:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1175308/sleeving-the-beginners-guide
> Cheers


Yup, Ontic did a great service documenting that so well.

I am glad you enjoy the videos and such, the main reason I made them is so others would take the jump into sleeving. It was always viewed as something only the "elite" or those with the skills to do it would do. But I wanted to see everyone jump in.

Glad they helped!


----------



## Lutro0

Heatshrinkless Video Guide is now up!


----------



## Devanmc436

Quick questions about the work, that i got while reading your guide:
1. how hard is it to use paracord and make it look good? Ive had plenty of experience with it from the military but this would be a new application and i can see how it might be problematic to deal with.
2. how hard is it to get everything the same length? I asume this is very important.
3. It looks like you solder your molex pins after crimping, is this correct?

Thanks for the guide, I think I am on the right track for my first custom sleeving job.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Devanmc436*
> 
> Quick questions about the work, that i got while reading your guide:
> 1. how hard is it to use paracord and make it look good? Ive had plenty of experience with it from the military but this would be a new application and i can see how it might be problematic to deal with.
> 2. how hard is it to get everything the same length? I asume this is very important.
> 3. It looks like you solder your molex pins after crimping, is this correct?
> 
> Thanks for the guide, I think I am on the right track for my first custom sleeving job.


I can't answer the first two questions, but I know he doesn't solder the pins after crimping.


----------



## feniks

thanks Lutro0!









some time ago I watched your vid about sleeving fans and it helped me very much with sleeving large number of fans and smaller wires (cold cathode wiring plus some internal USB extensions). I wasn't nearly as thorough as you were, but I am pleased with results.

This is a very detailed and thorough guide, was able to learn most of stuff before attempting to sleeve some PSU extensions (24-pin, 6-pin PCIe and 8-pin EPS)! for warranty sakes (of my PSU) I decided to leave original wires alone and only sleeve extensions for things I need and that are visible around the board through the plexi side door.

thanks for short reviews of tools, materials and approaches to the subject. will be testing my skills in a few days









have a good one Lutro0!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> thanks Lutro0!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> some time ago I watched your vid about sleeving fans and it helped me very much with sleeving large number of fans and smaller wires (cold cathode wiring plus some internal USB extensions). I wasn't nearly as thorough as you were, but I am pleased with results.
> This is a very detailed and thorough guide, was able to learn most of stuff before attempting to sleeve some PSU extensions (24-pin, 6-pin PCIe and 8-pin EPS)! for warranty sakes (of my PSU) I decided to leave original wires alone and only sleeve extensions for things I need and that are visible around the board through the plexi side door.
> thanks for short reviews of tools, materials and approaches to the subject. will be testing my skills in a few days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have a good one Lutro0!


No problem bud! Thats why I do the guides. =)


----------



## adi518

I just bought 1/8" tech-flex sleeving. Is this the size that fits a single atx wire / 3-pin fan sleeving?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I just bought 1/8" tech-flex sleeving. Is this the size that fits a single atx wire / 3-pin fan sleeving?


It is but where did you get your sleeving from as there is a couple different kinds of tech flex and only one is worth using.


----------



## adi518

Furryletters of course. =D

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360266476987?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1180


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Furryletters of course. =D
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/360266476987?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_500wt_1180


Ok good! Just making sure you didnt buyt the colored PET sleeving as its pretty lame.


----------



## adi518

I try to follow the FAQ guidelines.


----------



## S3ason

Anyone know where to buy new die's for the MDPC crimper? Mine keep breaking the wings off the left side of the crimp









Also, what wire do yall use? I'm assuming the wire thickness had something to do with my crimper going bad.


----------



## mandrix

I'm guessing you will have to contact Nils at MDPC and see if he stocks any spares. Actually I'm curious about this as well.
Have you looked at the crimper for signs of damage? Could it be you need to adjust your crimp, that is don't click it all the way down until it stops and see what happens if you stop just short?


----------



## S3ason

Thats what I've been doing, but it still breaks every once in a while (crimper is set to lowest strength setting). The die looks fine other than paint chipping off on the part that touches the pin (normal). I think it may be that I'm using too thick of wire. I'll email Nils about it now, thanks!


----------



## nawon72

Unfortunately you will have to buy a new crimper. Here is the email I sent him April 2012, and his response.

*Is there any sort of warranty?*
The warranty is that it works perfectly when you get it.

*Do you sell replacement crimping dies for your tool (the part that bends
the pins, and is replaceable)?*
No I don't sell replacement parts.

*Are there other types of crimp dies available for your tool?*
*nawon72:* based on the last answer, It's probably a no.

*Can you provide the datasheet?*

No I don't have data sheets as others would just copy what I created.

About the wire:

Nils: Try to not use cables which have more than 2.3mm outside-diameter, because they can potentially destroy the crimp-terminal. Best diameter for big cables and crimping is 1.9mm to 2.3mm outside diameter.

About the crimper's availability:

Nils: As I will not spend the rest of my lifetime with the complex manufacturing of such good crimping tools, this will be the last production batch and I hope it will last until early 2013

Taken from BigElf's post about a week ago.


----------



## Big Elf

It's possible the dies have got slightly out of alignment. I've had to adjust mine as it was breaking off or distorting the insulation wing on the ATX male pins when I was pre-crimping them. With the tool open I just loosened the screws and pushed the top die (with the 'v' bite) towards the handle and the bottom die in the opposite direction towards the front. You might have to tweak it a little bit but mine was working fine again after the adjustment. You have to screw the screws really tight when finished otherwise it comes out of alignment again quite quickly.

I found that if I was pre-crimping the pins and one side of the insulation wing was crushed then it needed adjusting as it's happened a couple of times. The wing that was being distorted on mine was the left hand side (looking at the pin from the back). I suppose if the wing is distorted on the other side then you reverse the adjustment procedure described above although I don't know for sure as mine's only done it on the left wing.


----------



## adi518

Guys, I was thinking about this... what will happen when Nils runs out of crimpers? Says he has like 160 in stock. I plan on buying one for sure.

Btw, I switched emails with Mona yesterday, and I was a bit let down. They have this nice family pack, but 30m of single wire sleeving just in black... I kinda wanted to split that into 3 colors and save some cost vs buying the colors I want separately (I wanna buy like 6 colors) but she kinda said "no". I know they have this little FAQ, asking people not to ask on changing "product contents" but I still think it's a legit request.


----------



## S3ason

People will probably have to buy and resell the molex brand crimper. As for the deal with Mona, I totally get where shes coming from. I run several online stores and I can tell you what a real pain it is doing custom listings for people. When you have all your products packaged up and ready to be shipped out, business is a breeze. When people get custom orders though, it really adds to the time it takes to process an order. By not allowing custom orders, theyre just making it easier on themselves in the long run. But it does kinda suck as a customer


----------



## adi518

Hmm, I was assuming they ready a sleeving-kit only when one has ordered so it'd be a breeze request. They could limit the request to just one thing, I don't see how much more effort that can be. They also say they're not a store.









As much as I don't want to buy the sleeving stuff from Moddiy, it's very appealing. Nearly, any request you'd throw at them, will be accepted and they ain't charging cheap for the products. Same with FurryLetters, although he's a "store". Barry is a nice guy.









EDIT: I meant for the sleeving-kit, not a family pack. Changing a Family pack, I could understand somehow but a sleeving-kit is prolly custom made on the spot, isn't it. Maybe they just have some in stock, ready to ship. I guess I can understand that.









Regarding the tool, oh my, if new people will have to spend 200$ just on the tool, they'll most likely settle for the cheap ones like Han Long. :\


----------



## mandrix

I'm afraid you're probably right. The price of the crimper is going to keep some people out of the game, although I managed with the cheap one it's a major pita to use. It used to crimp power pins pretty good but I'll be danged if it isn't mangling them now. It really is a pos. So glad I went ahead and got one from Nils while they are available. Not really sure why he wants to stop selling them though. Once a design is smoothed out I can't imagine why making more is a problem unless his manufacturer isn't cooperating or quality control is bad and he's losing money/aggravated.


----------



## adi518

Maybe he feels like he's wasting too much time on assembling and testing them. See, if I understand correctly, he won't comprise by selling them to customers untested, therefore he prefers to stop selling them all together than ship out an imperfect product.


----------



## Jeffinslaw

Hi Lutro0,

I have a question. How do you sleeve a SAS breakout cable? I would be interested in seeing how you do that because I will have two of those in my build.

Jeffinslaw


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Maybe he fills like he's wasting too much time on ordering and testing them. See, if I understand correctly, he won't comprise by selling them to customers untested, therefore he prefers to stop selling them all together than ship out an imperfect product.


Maybe so. Nice that he tests each one and includes crimps done with each unit.
I really hope he changes his mind and continues to have them made. After trying his crimper it's just light years ahead of most, unless I guess you're willing to shell out major $$ for a Molex one.
Maybe someone else will pick up the ball and start making them for a decent price as Nils does.

On the other hand I'm assuming the Molex one has replaceable dies, and if were much younger and thought I was going to be doing this for many years to come, I would probably get the Molex at some point.


----------



## adi518

At 200$ ? Yeh, I bet.









If Nills is really going to stop making them, it's a must order.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> On the other hand I'm assuming the Molex one has replaceable dies, and if were much younger and thought I was going to be doing this for many years to come, I would probably get the Molex at some point.


Replacement dies will probably cost around $70, or the same as buying an MDPC-X crimper. That's based on what I've seen for similarly priced crimpers. But the Molex tool should last much longer than MDPC-X's.


----------



## mandrix

Anyone have a feel for the lifespan of Nil's crimper if the larger crimp is only used on ATX style pins? I guess I'll continue to use my other crimper for power pins, although it's starting to really suck or my technique went all to crap.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> ... I guess I'll continue to use my other crimper for power pins, although it's starting to really suck or my technique went all to crap.


It's also possible that the dies are out of alignment on your Hans Long crimper although I also got varying results with different manufacturers pins. If it's distorting one side of the wire or insulation crimp that previously worked OK then it's possibly out of alignment. I spent a long time trying to work out where I was going wrong before realising it was the tool that needed adjusting.

I get the best results with that tool by using ModSmart molex type pins and inserting them all the way into the tool so that the rear wings are snug against the narrow part of the die where the wire crimp is formed.


----------



## mandrix

BE it's really crapping up the crimp over the insulation, instead of crimping it's almost "pushing" it back the other way and actually breaks the pin sometimes.


----------



## Big Elf

Could you post a photo of what the crimp looks like?

This is what a pre-crimped ATX pin looks like if the MDPC-X tool is out of alignment:




And this is what it looks like after adjustment


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Anyone have a feel for the lifespan of Nil's crimper if the larger crimp is only used on ATX style pins? I guess I'll continue to use my other crimper for power pins, although it's starting to really suck or my technique went all to crap.


I have crimped more pins then I care to admit, and yes I have used it for the 4pin molex pins from time to time. Honestly If you take care of it and use it right the tool should last you more then you will ever need to crimp. That is granting 99% of the people that use it dont sell them, but use it for personal use.

To give a number out of estimation - you can add up the following:

50 or more full extension kits
20 or more full power supplies
Numerous testing wires

And the tool is just like it was new.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Anyone have a feel for the lifespan of Nil's crimper if the larger crimp is only used on ATX style pins? I guess I'll continue to use my other crimper for power pins, although it's starting to really suck or my technique went all to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> I have crimped more pins then I care to admit, and yes I have used it for the 4pin molex pins from time to time. Honestly If you take care of it and use it right the tool should last you more then you will ever need to crimp. That is granting 99% of the people that use it dont sell them, but use it for personal use.
> 
> To give a number out of estimation - you can add up the following:
> 
> 50 or more full extension kits
> 20 or more full power supplies
> Numerous testing wires
> 
> And the tool is just like it was new.
Click to expand...

Well over 5000 crimps...









Some lubrication will significantly increase the life of the tool (assuming the die doesn't get damaged):



The MDPC tool is different so you will have to figure out where to add the lubricant. Pic from here.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Well over 5000 crimps...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some lubrication will significantly increase the life of the tool (assuming the die doesn't get damaged):
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1038812/
> The MDPC tool is different so you will have to figure out where to add the lubricant. Pic from here.


Good call bud, I meant to add that point.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Could you post a photo of what the crimp looks like?
> This is what a pre-crimped ATX pin looks like if the MDPC-X tool is out of alignment:
> 
> 
> And this is what it looks like after adjustment[/SPOILER]
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Same as your top two pics except both "sides" have that same shape. In other words the funky look on the "right side" is the same on the "left side". Hope that's clear. It ends up looking very bad after a complete crimp and ends up bending the pin as well making it difficult to stick in a connector. I have done crimp after crimp where I had to cut them off and start over.
But that's with the Hans Long crimper, and with the power pins, not the ATX pins. Trying to precrimp any kind of pin with the Hans Long has always been useless with mine, I just squeeze the tabs together with needlenose pliers to hold the wire in place before inserting in the crimper. Basically the same with ATX pins and this crimper except the crimp is better with the known problem of not crimping around the insulation as well as the MDPC crimper.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I have crimped more pins then I care to admit, and yes I have used it for the 4pin molex pins from time to time. Honestly If you take care of it and use it right the tool should last you more then you will ever need to crimp. That is granting 99% of the people that use it dont sell them, but use it for personal use.
> To give a number out of estimation - you can add up the following:
> 50 or more full extension kits
> 20 or more full power supplies
> Numerous testing wires
> And the tool is just like it was new.


Good to know. I shouldn't have any problems as I doubt it will ever see more than 4 or 5 complete sleevings. Well, unless SS gives me a raise, lol.

@nawon72, thanks for the diagram. Gives a general idea about how to lubricate the MDPC crimper.


----------



## Big Elf

Maybe try a different manufacturers pin? I remember that the Phobya power pins didn't crimp as well as the ModSmart ones do although from memory I think it was distorting the wire crimp rather than the insulation crimp.

Edit: Just to clarify. I meant that if it's distorting both wings and the pin is inserted all the way in the tool then it's more likely it's the pin that's the problem.


----------



## mandrix

I've lost track of who's pins I'm using. I have a few from PPCS and other places.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Anyone have a feel for the lifespan of Nil's crimper if the larger crimp is only used on ATX style pins? I guess I'll continue to use my other crimper for power pins, although it's starting to really suck or my technique went all to crap.
> 
> 
> 
> I have crimped more pins then I care to admit, and yes I have used it for the 4pin molex pins from time to time. Honestly If you take care of it and use it right the tool should last you more then you will ever need to crimp. That is granting 99% of the people that use it dont sell them, but use it for personal use.
> 
> To give a number out of estimation - you can add up the following:
> 
> 50 or more full extension kits
> 20 or more full power supplies
> Numerous testing wires
> 
> And the tool is just like it was new.
Click to expand...

Now the question is:

How long would it last if you only crimped peripheral power terminals (pins)? E.g. 02-06-2101

Some people may be wondering If they really need two tools.

Also, are there any issues crimping fan terminals? E.g. 08-50-0113


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I've lost track of who's pins I'm using. I have a few from PPCS and other places.


Better label them. I know I will, otherwise it's gonna become a chaos of pins.









Guys, where else can you get original molex pins and connectors?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I've lost track of who's pins I'm using. I have a few from PPCS and other places.
> 
> 
> 
> Better label them. I know I will, otherwise it's gonna become a chaos of pins.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Guys, where else can you get original molex pins and connectors?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure where you would get them without shipping intl to Israel. NewArk, Allied Electronics, and DigiKey are the ones I know for USA. If you want to find other sites with the product, use Octopart.

If you need to know specific part numbers just ask.


----------



## adi518

There's a Molex dealership in my city. I'll try contacting them I guess.

EDIT: That was quick.









I talked to some guy who said if an item is in stock, I can buy as many as I want, otherwise though, they have to take an order from the manufacturer and that means sticking to a minimum order of 5000+ items. Obviously, out of range for an occasional customer like me.

Now I need to come up with catalog/part numbers for each pin/connector and they'll report back on what they have in stock. MAYBE I'll get lucky.









For the pins, I think Lutro mentioned those in the FAQ section. For other stuff like connectors, I have no clue. Last time I tried to look through the Molex website it was a disaster, you can't understand anything.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> What I need now are catalog/part numbers of each pin/connector and they'll report back on what they have in stock. MAYBE I'll get lucky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the pins, I think Lutro mentioned those in the FAQ section. For other stuff like connectors, I have no clue. Last time I tried to look through the Molex website it was a disaster, you can't understand anything.


I can post my list of terminals (pins), housings (connectors), and tools sometime tomorrow if you'd like. I need to sleep soon, and right now my list is just bookmarks. So until then you can check out the "*Molex Catalogues*" link in my signature. It was taken from here, but I uploaded it to MediaFire for much faster downloads and online viewing.

You may also want to check out the other links in my sig.

*Edit:* If you need one or two part numbers right now, I can provide them.


----------



## adi518

I'm not in a hurry. Thanks a lot!!!


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Some people may be wondering If they really need two tools.


The reason why I have 2 tools is that I bought the Han Long tool a while ago before I knew anything about MDPC-X. As Lutro0 has mentioned he uses his MDPC-X tool for crimping the Molex type 4 pins occasionally so there's really no need for 2 tools..


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Some people may be wondering If they really need two tools.
> 
> 
> 
> The reason why I have 2 tools is that I bought the Han Long tool a while ago before I knew anything about MDPC-X. As Lutro0 has mentioned he uses his MDPC-X tool for crimping the Molex type 4 pins occasionally so there's really no need for 2 tools..
Click to expand...

I was getting the impression that you should buy both the HT-225D and MDPC-X crimpers if you plan on crimping Mini-Fit Jr. and peripheral power terminals.

Should someone who is crimping mostly peripheral and fan terminals get the MDPC-X crimper, HT-225D, or both tools?


----------



## Big Elf

I would always get the MDPC-X crimper as a first choice. I happen to think that the 225D does better crimps on dual wires for the peripheral pins but if I hadn't bought it first I would have been happy just with the MDPC-X one.


----------



## mandrix

I've looked at my power pins and since the ones I have left are mostly in groups of four I suspect they came from PPCS. I have no idea where they get their pins (these are NOT the mod smart pins but the other ones). I think these are the pins I have most of:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_174&products_id=995


----------



## adi518

Placed an order for MDPC tool + Brainwashers (is that a made up name or what?







)... Nils and Mona are great.









Anyone wants a brand new SN-28B?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Placed an order for MDPC tool + Brainwashers (is that a made up name or what?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )... Nils and Mona are great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone wants a brand new SN-28B?


Snuck an order in myself. =P

No, Nils Forum name was DualBrain so I think it keeps with theme.


----------



## adi518

Already shipped. That was fast.









I'm wondering how bad of a mix is, an original connector and a copy connector & vice versa?

I'm looking for part numbers of the following:


----------



## Furion92

Punch-down type SATA power connector with latch: 67926-0001
Feed-through cap for SATA power connector: 67926-0040
End cap for SATA power connector: 67926-0040
Crimp type SATA power connector: 67582-0000
SATA power connector crimps: 67581-0000 *

*there are many different crimps with different plating. They are all part of the 67581 product line.

I don't know anything about the fan connectors, I never found them when I searched.

//edit: added part numbers


----------



## adi518

I took a look at my Moddiy fan connectors. I noticed how the slots are longer on the 4-pin connectors. I compared the 3-pin to a 3-pin I took off my Fractal Design fan and it's identical.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> I don't know anything about the fan connectors, I never found them when I searched.


3 POS: 22-01-3037 (Natural)

4 POS: 47054-1000 (Ivory)

I don't know about the other colors and It would be a good idea if someone could double check these.


----------



## mandrix

I would stay away from the pins at the top of the page of the 3 pos connector, they have the little wings you have to cut off (MOLEX 08-55-0101) but get these instead (08-50-0114). This is judging by the pics as I'm not familiar with the part numbers. The first group are joined together by those little wings in the "spring" area of the pin and are a royal pita. I got a bunch of those from FTW PC a while back and I never use them anymore. Or you can just get some from Nils.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I would stay away from the pins at the top of the page of the 3 pos connector, they have the little wings you have to cut off (MOLEX 08-55-0101) but get these instead (08-50-0114). This is judging by the pics as I'm not familiar with the part numbers. The first group are joined together by those little wings in the "spring" area of the pin and are a royal pita. I got a bunch of those from FTW PC a while back and I never use them anymore. Or you can just get some from Nils.


It should be noted that 08-50-0114 comes in a bag and 08-50-0113 comes on a reel. The reel is always cheaper, but at the cost of your time.

FTW PC has been selling 08-50-0113 since April-May 2012.


----------



## adi518

Looks like I got lucky. The local Molex dealer has the ATX pins in stock, 0.045$ per pin, is that a good price for a bagged pin?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Looks like I got lucky. The local Molex dealer has the ATX pins in stock, 0.045$ per pin, is that a good price for bag pin?


Part number?


----------



## adi518

I will buy 100 of them in a bag. They said I can buy as many as I want while stock lasts.









I gave them these:

Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female Pins - 39-00-0038 (Reel)
Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female Pins - 39-00-0039 (Bag)


----------



## nawon72

Seems like a great price for 39-00-0039, even if you buy 1000. How much does 39-00-0038 cost?


----------



## adi518

Yes, it's a bargain and it's 15 minutes away.









The reel pins cost 0.03$ but I was told it's 4000 pins per reel so I can't really buy it, I'm not Nils from MDPC.









Very small difference compare to 'bag' and it'll save me some labor time anyway.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Yes, it's a bargain and it's 15 minutes away.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reel pins cost 0.03$ but I was told it's 4000 pins per reel so I can't really buy it, I'm not Nils from MDPC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very small difference compare to 'bag' and it'll save me some labor time anyway.


Haha, trust me a whole reel lasts a long time. =P


----------



## mandrix

Reels of pins are for super troopers like Lutro0 who can probably zip through 2 ATX sets while I sleeve 10 fans.


----------



## adi518

Yep, it's for sleeving Generals.


----------



## Lutro0

Little nugget added to the FAQ
Quote:


> Paracord and Sata Data Cables? - Is there a size of paracord that can be used to sleeve sata data cables?
> 
> Sadly the answer is no. Paracord generally tops out at 650, there may be some made that's larger but I have not ever found any. But not all is lost...
> 
> Bitfenix makes sleeved sata cables that will somewhat match as they are using a soft nylon type material that looks like paracord.


----------



## Furion92

There are probably good news for that topic Lutro0.

Akasa's new Proslim SATA data cable series is probably small enough for paracord. The connectors are quite easily removable, so you should be able to sleeve it


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> There are probably good news for that topic Lutro0.
> Akasa's new Proslim SATA data cable series is probably small enough for paracord. The connectors are quite easily removable, so you should be able to sleeve it


Ahh, how do the connectors remove as I am interested now. Now I have to go buy one and try lol


----------



## Furion92

I saw a picture of the connectors in a closed forum. You can pop them open with an exacto or anything sharp. The pins aren't even soldered, they are more of a punch-down type.
That finally means very easy shortening. The only downsides are the available lengths (15,30 and 50cm, nothing longer) and the rather edgy connector, where the heatshrink could snap.


----------



## adi518

30 and 50 sound like manageable lengths.


----------



## Big Elf

Although I only tried 550 paracord I couldn't get it on the Akasa Super Slim SATA cables. I could get MDPC-X small sleeve onto it but the weave wouldn't tighten up enough when stretched. The neat thing about them is apart from dismantling easily you can cut them to length.

Check out *#1540* in cpachris's thread


----------



## jackofhearts495

So I'm sleeving some stuff with black/gray/white MDPC-X. I know it's highly recommended to cover the darker wire with white electrical tape, but could I cheat and just spray paint them white? Do you think that would hold up or be feasible?

*EDIT:*

Oh, and do all 24-pin cables have two reds going into one pin like this?


----------



## Alastair

Guys can you give me tips on cable sleving. Firstly I live in South Africa and am not sure where to buy sleeving. (Aimed at anybody who might live nearby.) Funnily enough most computer stores don't have sleeving. Secondly I don't want to sleeve each individual cable from the PSU. Only the individual bunches, but I still want it to look good. Got a black and blue theme going on inside my PC. Any help is appreciated!


----------



## remotehugger

HEATSHRINK QUESTION -

so i bought 5 meters of mdpc heat shrink ( cuz calculating 15 mm cuts i can get 66 out of a meter for same price of 50 pre-cut) but wondered if im gonna be using this with paracord do i need to cut it a different length ?


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> HEATSHRINK QUESTION -
> so i bought 5 meters of mdpc heat shrink ( cuz calculating 15 mm cuts i can get 66 out of a meter for same price of 50 pre-cut) but wondered if im gonna be using this with paracord do i need to cut it a different length ?


Nope


----------



## adi518

What are the best sata cables for sleeving right now? Aside from the new Akasa.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> So I'm sleeving some stuff with black/gray/white MDPC-X. I know it's highly recommended to cover the darker wire with white electrical tape, but could I cheat and just spray paint them white? Do you think that would hold up or be feasible?
> *EDIT:*
> Oh, and do all 24-pin cables have two reds going into one pin like this?


Spray Paint is kinda a bad idea. It was once said that you can use an elastic type enamel that allows it to flex, however allot of people said it does not last long, and I can see issues when sleeving as it relies on the wire to have some grip, and the paint could grip right off. So your best bet is to make your own white wires or use lengthwise pieces of electrical tape.

Not all PSUs have two wires going into one, they all depend on the powersupplies pin out and all are different with the exception being some same models and such.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Guys can you give me tips on cable sleving. Firstly I live in South Africa and am not sure where to buy sleeving. (Aimed at anybody who might live nearby.) Funnily enough most computer stores don't have sleeving. Secondly I don't want to sleeve each individual cable from the PSU. Only the individual bunches, but I still want it to look good. Got a black and blue theme going on inside my PC. Any help is appreciated!


Please check out the Sleeving FAQ & Sleeving Guide Videos that will give you a huge start.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/
http://www.overclock.net/t/1262904/video-sleeving-guide-series/

For bunch sleeving you will want larger heatshrink and larger sleeving, MDPC is top notch - however there is many choices out there that will ship internationally.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> HEATSHRINK QUESTION -
> so i bought 5 meters of mdpc heat shrink ( cuz calculating 15 mm cuts i can get 66 out of a meter for same price of 50 pre-cut) but wondered if im gonna be using this with paracord do i need to cut it a different length ?


Please check out my Paracord Sleeving Video as it shows you how to use MDPC HS.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1262904/video-sleeving-guide-series/

However using that small of heatshrink with paracord is considered a bit advanced the video will break it down. Most end up using slightly longer like 20mm or such.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> What are the best sata cables for sleeving right now? Aside from the new Akasa.


Honestly most basic sata cables with a color underneath that is close to the sleeve will work. Be mindful of large clips and angles as only one side can have an angle.


----------



## remotehugger

Please check out my Paracord Sleeving Video as it shows you how to use MDPC HS. http://www.overclock.net/t/1262904/video-sleeving-guide-series/

However using that small of heatshrink with paracord is considered a bit advanced the video will break it down. Most end up using slightly longer like 20mm or such.

ok thank you -


----------



## remotehugger

sorry guys - i keep getting these ideas after i post - but i have the sph850 and on 2 of the wires for my psu there is a smaller 2nd wire - one of them is a red +5v with a much thinner 2nd red wire attached and the other is an orange +3.3v wire with a thinner brown wire attached - my question is: can i take those smaller wires, splice them in about 2 or 3 inches from each pin so that the pins only have one wire and then that way i can still sleeve it inside one piece of paracord ? i drew a pic in case i wasnt explaining very well -



the 2 wires will definitely fit into the paracord i just didnt know if by doing this i would lose what ever function those little wires are for or any integrity -


----------



## Furion92

You can even cut them if you want. They are almost completely pointless.
It wouldn't make much sense to splice them.

However, if you can get them into your parcord, I'd go for that.


----------



## remotehugger

well heck if i dont need them id just assume get rid of them - i just thought maybe they had some sort of purpose cuz the p/s is so new and being hybrid i thought they mite have something to do with the fan not running under nominal load or some sort of sensors inside the p/s -


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Although I only tried 550 paracord I couldn't get it on the Akasa Super Slim SATA cables. I could get MDPC-X small sleeve onto it but the weave wouldn't tighten up enough when stretched. The neat thing about them is apart from dismantling easily you can cut them to length.
> Check out *#1540* in cpachris's thread


Thanks BE, got me some on the way. I've been PO'd that I have to buy either too short or way too long cables and all the headaches involved for my build. Finally get that back side cleaned up a little!


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Not all PSUs have two wires going into one, they all depend on the powersupplies pin out and all are different with the exception being some same models and such.


That could get ugly... so I should stick to exactly what the pinning was originally?


----------



## mandrix

@Lutro0,
I checked out your live sleeving last night but couldn't get you to answer my question about your wire stripper. Was wondering if that stripper lets you preset the strip length? I couldn't see it very well.
Enjoyed the music though.......


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackofhearts495*
> 
> That could get ugly... so I should stick to exactly what the pinning was originally?


Yup. Always a safe bet.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> @Lutro0,
> I checked out your live sleeving last night but couldn't get you to answer my question about your wire stripper. Was wondering if that stripper lets you preset the strip length? I couldn't see it very well.
> Enjoyed the music though.......


I did, but it was in the middle of 10 other questions lol. Yes its adjustable.


----------



## remotehugger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> sorry guys - i keep getting these ideas after i post - but i have the sph850 and on 2 of the wires for my psu there is a smaller 2nd wire - one of them is a red +5v with a much thinner 2nd red wire attached and the other is an orange +3.3v wire with a thinner brown wire attached - my question is: can i take those smaller wires, splice them in about 2 or 3 inches from each pin so that the pins only have one wire and then that way i can still sleeve it inside one piece of paracord ? i drew a pic in case i wasnt explaining very well -
> 
> the 2 wires will definitely fit into the paracord i just didnt know if by doing this i would lose what ever function those little wires are for or any integrity -


so splicing the wires wont cause it lose any functionality that the wires provide ? for some reason im afraid that if the wires arent crimped inside the pins it would be like they arent there - and if i remove them does anyone know what that will do ? does anyone know what the purpose of those smaller wires are ?


----------



## nezff

Im assuming they are monitoring voltage wires. I know on my seasonic, this is there function. They "tell" the psu to up the voltage if it drops below a recommended rating.


----------



## Furion92

Normally the double wires on a power supply are there to monitor the voltage at the end of the cable. They are called "sense" wires. This way the unit can adjust its output depending on how much voltage drop happened over the cable.

On this PSU however (the SPH 850W) the double wires start and end together in the same positions. Either this is a fake sensing to pretend a functionality that the psu doesn't even have, OR it's there to stabilize the voltages a tiny bit. The overall diameter of a double wire is bigger than the diameter of a single wire (makes sense, huh?







). Therefore the resistance is lower and the voltage doesn't drop that fast when current is going through. But we're talking about very small range of additional voltage drop.

Either way, your psu will still work properly, whether you remove the additional wire or not.


----------



## remotehugger

thats what i was thinking too - or maybe they had something to do with the "hybrid" part of the p/s, like to tell it when the fan needs to be on or off - but i should probably not remove them then eh ? and as far as splicing like in my pic, would this be acceptable and it would still work the same as if they were crimped at the pin ?


----------



## remotehugger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Normally the double wires on a power supply are there to monitor the voltage at the end of the cable. They are called "sense" wires. This way the unit can adjust its output depending on how much voltage drop happened over the cable.
> On this PSU however (the SPH 850W) the double wires start and end together in the same positions. Either this is a fake sensing to pretend a functionality that the psu doesn't even have, OR it's there to stabilize the voltages a tiny bit. The overall diameter of a double wire is bigger than the diameter of a single wire (makes sense, huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Therefore the resistance is lower and the voltage doesn't drop that fast when current is going through. But we're talking about very small range of additional voltage drop.
> Either way, your psu will still work properly, whether you remove the additional wire or not.


ok - i get it - makes "sense" (lol) - i do overclock but not an extreme amount so i dont think removing them is gonna hurt me any - and it will be a lot less hassle to remove them than to splice and solder them - thank you for all your input -


----------



## jackofhearts495

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yup. Always a safe bet.


My only problem is that, in one case, two red wires come out of one hole but don't terminate in the same hole on the end; rather they split like a Y. I was thinking I would sleeve both arms of the Y and just heatshrink where they join up at the pin, maybe add a little adhesive of some sort to make sure they stay.

The other double-wire is just that, a double-wire. Hopefully I can stretch the MDPC-X over it because I don't have the tools necessary to take the pins of and re-crimp. Maybe I'll just put the 24-pin on hold and do something simple...


----------



## remotehugger

ok, how does this look ? this was after 6 practice tries - i think it looks pretty good and it looks like its small enough to fit into the connector - any input is greatly appreciated -


----------



## Hukkel

Didn't know where else to put it.

I have been sleeving for a while now using all of Lutro0s videos as a guide. Today I tried my first heatshrinkless sleeving. Again using the video by Dr. L.
I nailed it the very first try. And just wanted to say (again) thank you for taking your time to make those videos Dr. L. You're a huge help making it easy for anyone to sleeve wires. You're freakin' ace


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yup. Always a safe bet.
> I did, but it was in the middle of 10 other questions lol. Yes its adjustable.


Sure, I had to leave when chow was ready so I didn't stick around long.
Got a link to the stripper? Mine is heavy and works good but I do slip from time to time.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Im assuming they are monitoring voltage wires. I know on my seasonic, this is there function. They "tell" the psu to up the voltage if it drops below a recommended rating.


Yep. On the Seasonics what you can run into is being unable to "jump start" the psu by shorting "the green wire" to ground. I ran into that when I sleeved mine. Not so important to some people, sometimes more so to water coolers.I finally sorted it out but still can't remember which ones are critical for that function.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> ok, how does this look ? this was after 6 practice tries - i think it looks pretty good and it looks like its small enough to fit into the connector - any input is greatly appreciated -


Hmm hard to tell but you might clean up the one on the right with an exacto knife or such, just trim a little where it sticks up toward the wing. My eyesight isn't excellent though....


----------



## remotehugger

ok-my very first sleeving job - heatshrinkless paracord - 8 pin eps power connector - i am very happy the way it turned out -


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Sure, I had to leave when chow was ready so I didn't stick around long.
> Got a link to the stripper? Mine is heavy and works good but I do slip from time to time.....
> Yep. On the Seasonics what you can run into is being unable to "jump start" the psu by shorting "the green wire" to ground. I ran into that when I sleeved mine. Not so important to some people, sometimes more so to water coolers.I finally sorted it out but still can't remember which ones are critical for that function.


I used the jump start trick already on my seasonic. No problem.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> I used the jump start trick already on my seasonic. No problem.











Mine had me baffled for a while. Would work perfectly when plugged into mobo but just couldn't jump it. Wish I could remember exactly which wire had to be in the right spot.


----------



## remotehugger

does anyone know if the wires on the sata power cables on the SPH850 can be removed, moved, and then re-inserted without any problems ? the SPH850 has the type of cables that the wire just squeezes in between those 2 knife like prongs to pierce the sleeving - i just dont know if pulling out the wires and moving the connector and then using the same wires will affect the integrity of the wire - what i want to do is make the end connector further away from the others so i can use just the one cable with 4 sata power connectors on it for my dvd drive, 2 hdd and my 1 ssd - and like i said, in order to be able to use just one cable i need to change the position of the connectors - plus i want to try and sleeve that bad boy as well - the nice thing about the SPH850 is all the cables are able to be seperated very easily -


----------



## Furion92

I wouldn't recommend doing that remotehugger








If you removed the connectors, you'd be left with a cable that's got deep cuts in it. If you'd insulate it, you wouldn't be able to sleeve it cleanly anymore...


----------



## remotehugger

i see what you mean - what i could do is buy some new wire and just use the connectors couldnt i ? also Furion, i saw an older post from you about the "sense"wires - did you end up just using a thicker wire for those 2 double wires on the sph850 ? i am all set to start sleeving it and was just gonna leave the sense wires off - but if getting a little bit of 14awg wire would be better id rather do that -


----------



## Furion92

Yes you could buy new wire, but you'd have to crimp the contacts on (-> that means buying an adequate crimper + pins).
On the other hand you could use the wires from spare pci-e cables. They already have the right crimps on and should be long enough.

For the double wires I used standard 18AWG electrical wire, same as for all others. You could use 16AWG for them, I don't think that anything thicker would fit into the connectors.
But the same as above, you'd need a crimper + crimps.


----------



## remotehugger

i have a decent crimper and pins i got from performance pc's - i actually had to crimp pins on to one side of all my 24 pin cable cuz i broke quite a few of them trting to de-pin it - one side came out fine and all the others have been easy but that one side of the 24 pin gave me fits - i was so mad - lol - but on the plus side I've gotten pretty good at crimping - i would like to find some better pins, wasnt impressed with the ones i got from performance but they worked -
anyway - so you left off the sense wires all together then eh ?


----------



## Furion92

Yes, I didn't use bigger wire or double wires when I recabled it.

I just tried to look up how much current could be going through these cables. I found some sources saying that motherboards are drawing up to 50-60 watts. At 12 volts that would make 4-5 amps. There are 2 +12V wires in the 24pin connector. So you've got a worst case of 2.5A over a single cable. The calculated voltage drop (calculator) is 0.1V for 18AWG wire (3ft length) and 0.06V for 16AWG wire. So the difference would be 0.04V, which really isn't that much (0.33% of 12V)









Please keep in mind that this was a worst case scenario! That means all the current has to go exclusively through the +12V lines and the motherboard has got to be under full load.


----------



## remotehugger

ok cool - thanks for all the input and info - it was extremely helpful - i now feel alot better about leaving out the double wires and understand alot more as to why they were there and what they were for -


----------



## mandrix

Likely someone has brought this up before but: I'm getting ready to make a new cable set and sleeve it, and so I ordered some Seasonic connectors from modDIY. They include pins with these, and after looking at them I'm just going to throw them away. The rear wings that clamp on the wire insulation are really short, I'd be afraid to use them.


----------



## remotehugger

@Furion - i wanted to ask why you went with 18awg wires instead of 16awg ?
@mandrix - the pins from performance pc's are the same way - i ised them but i had to back the tension down on my crimper in order to use them - not only short wings but the entire end that holds the insulation and the wire just isnt that great - the pin part was gold plated and they were fairly inexpensive but i wont be buying them again -


----------



## adi518

This just got here:










My my, the grey techflex looks great! Also bought some in sata size.


----------



## Furion92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> @Furion - i wanted to ask why you went with 18awg wires instead of 16awg ?


Easy answer: it was an extremely hard task to find 16AWG wire with the same or lower outer diameter than the original wire. The insulation needed to be white, so the range of available wires got smaller and smaller. There were lots of white electrical wires (18AWG) which had a bigger outer diameter than the original ones. Then I found the ones I eventually bought with an outer diameter of 2.03mm. The smaller size made it easier to sleeve without any heatshrink, because you've got more room in the holes of the connector.


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Likely someone has brought this up before but: I'm getting ready to make a new cable set and sleeve it, and so I ordered some Seasonic connectors from modDIY. They include pins with these, and after looking at them I'm just going to throw them away. The rear wings that clamp on the wire insulation are really short, I'd be afraid to use them.


I don't know about finding good pins, but how about ordering up an extra set of cables for your psu, from Antron Electronics ? My x-850's set cost $30. Granted, I didn't do the sleeving, and I have no idea about the pinning .... but you get the original connectors for the psu side. Or am I being really dumb here ? I guess you'd be doing the same process with a replacement set as your original set - pulling cables and pins..


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> I don't know about finding good pins, but how about ordering up an extra set of cables for your psu, from Antron Electronics ? My x-850's set cost $30. Granted, I didn't do the sleeving, and I have no idea about the pinning .... but you get the original connectors for the psu side. Or am I being really dumb here ? I guess you'd be doing the same process with a replacement set as your original set - pulling cables and pins..


I already have a perfectly good 24 pin -well, two actually for the Seasonic, and one actually came from Antron Electronics.
But I'm going to resleeve -that is actually make new wiring set and sleeve it- in black and white. For that I have 18 gauge white and black wire, and a bunch of pre-crimped pins and sleeve sitting at the ready for me to get started.
The white and black wire will ensure that the wire will not show through the sleeving. Ever seen an orange or red wire behind light colored sleeve? lol it ain't pretty.
....and the final and main reason for doing all this is because I'm not happy with the blue and black color combo I used to sleeve the first time, although the sleeve job itself is decent IMO.

Did that answer your question?


----------



## socketus

Sure, I thought that you were asking, in an indirect way, about pins. But I backtracked your posts and saw that you were already up to speed. My bad. Nice, that you can take on such a job that I paid to have done, - oh!! my wallet







- but I'm happy with what I have.


----------



## remotehugger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Easy answer: it was an extremely hard task to find 16AWG wire with the same or lower outer diameter than the original wire. The insulation needed to be white, so the range of available wires got smaller and smaller. There were lots of white electrical wires (18AWG) which had a bigger outer diameter than the original ones. Then I found the ones I eventually bought with an outer diameter of 2.03mm. The smaller size made it easier to sleeve without any heatshrink, because you've got more room in the holes of the connector.


makes perfect sense ! i ended up using all the same wires from my 24 pin cable but did have a hell of a time crimping the new pins on - i did find the molex part number for their male and female pins-a little pricey but definitely the route i will go next time -


----------



## nezff

By splicing the double wires, would I be causing a problem with my seasonic


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> By splicing the double wires, would I be causing a problem with my seasonic


You shouldn't have a problem afaik.

Lutro done a video about this 2 days ago:


----------



## NewHighScore

How much should one expect to spend on MDPC to fully sleeve their Corsiar AX750?


----------



## adi518

Check the sleeve kit. Nils wrote down an approximation of what you can do with it.


----------



## adi518

Guys, 3:1 techflex shrink...would it be good enough for everything? exclude single atx jobs.


----------



## mandrix

Looks like it would be good. How much?
Techflex apparently sells different sizes and colors so if you need to color match looks like a good source. I've never used any that I know of, though.
I know you're not in US but I can get 4 foot sections of 1/4" 3:1 gray/black shrink for $0.56 if you need a price comparison.


----------



## adi518

I was running through Google this morning, looking for local stores that sell 3:1 and 4:1 shrinks. I actually found a few, and turns out one shop became a Techflex dealer on last january. How didn't I see that? I can finally buy more of this stuff locally instead of waiting almost two weeks to get it off ebay. Looking at the store webpage, they seem to carry nearly all products that appear on techflex.com, that includes 3:1 shrinks in a variety of colors.









Techflex also has a 4:1 shrink...anyone tried it? Lutro maybe? http://www.techflex.com/prod_H4N.asp


----------



## mandrix

I haven't tried the 4:1. But I did order 40 feet of 1/4" and 12 feet of 1/8" last night from Allied Electronics.
Prices are good but I see they are charging a $5 handling fee now which I don't remember from my previous order.
Which reminds me I need to order some more MDPC, I screwed up and didn't order enough before. Nils is supposed to be open at 1800 local time today so maybe I can catch him.
I just made my 8 pin and sleeved it while watching football yesterday. This time I made it 35" so it will reach the top of the Switch without an extension!


----------



## nezff

Im going to attempt to use heatshrink because the double wires wont allow heathshrinkless.


----------



## NewHighScore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NewHighScore*
> 
> How much should one expect to spend on MDPC to fully sleeve their Corsiar AX750?


----------



## Furion92

http://www.de.mdpc-x.com

*10m* small black sleeve: 8.82€ (incl. VAT) -> 7.41€ (excl. VAT) -> 9.7$ ... probably *10$*
*100m* small black sleeve (dumping pack): 49.8€ (incl. VAT) -> 41.85€ (excl. VAT) -> 54.76$ ... probably *54$*
*200m* small black sleeve (family pack): 85.90€ (incl. VAT) -> 72.18€ (excl. VAT) -> 94.45$ ... probably *95$*


----------



## remotehugger

sorry if this is the wrong place to post this pic but i was excited to get my stuff from Nils







- if this should be somewhere else can someone please point me to where it should be !
ps : does he always send a small piece of sleeving with his orders ?


----------



## Furion92

Hey buddy,

I would've posted it here: click!

And yes, he always sends small pieces of his other colors


----------



## nezff




----------



## remotehugger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Hey buddy,
> I would've posted it here: click!
> And yes, he always sends small pieces of his other colors


man i was gonna post it there too - oh well, live and learn -








thank you -


----------



## adi518

I just bought some wire, going by the recommendation of a wire with an outside diameter between 1.9 and 2.2mm.

I found this wire which has an outside diameter of 2.03mm: It's an 'Alphawire' brand wire. UL1007, everything looks correct about it.

http://www.lion.co.il/p/2202354#.UFl9JY3ibYg

Code:



Code:


► Reel Length (Imperial) - 1000ft
► Reel Length (Metric) - 304.8m
► Conductor Size AWG - 18AWG
► Conductor Area CSA - 0.816mm²
► Jacket Colour - White
► Jacket Material - PVC (Polyvinyl Chloride)
► Conductor Material - Copper
► External Diameter - 2.03mm
► Voltage Rating - 300V
► No. of Strands x Strand Size - 16 x 0.255mm
► SVHC - No SVHC (18-Jun-2012)
► Cable UL Style Number - UL1007
► Conductor Make-up - 16 / 30AWG
► Current Rating - 15A
► Jacket Material - PVC
► No. of Cores - 1
► Operating Temperature Max - 80°C
► Operating Temperature Min - -40°C
► Outer Diameter - 2.03mm
► Secondary Insulation Colour - White
► Secondary Insulation Material - PVC
► Voltage Rating V AC - 300V
► Wire Size - 18AWG

Also comes in white so I bought 20m for those few brighter sleeved cables I'll be making.

Can anyone confirm this wire is indeed suitable?

I compared it to this: http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref

I'll be sleeving with heatshrink.


----------



## mandrix

As long as it's 18 gauge stranded copper wire it's hard to screw it up.


----------



## adi518

I really hope so. I called a warehouse that usually sells in huge quantities (300m per reel). The salesman said I can't have only 70m of wire as it's a "joke". He then said he'll check what he can do and call back. Lo and behold, he did! Said they have an opened reel so they can cut off the length I need and deliver right to my door.









Total of 70m (230ft) + shipping, cost me 42$. Is that cheap or expensive? Delivery alone was 10$.


----------



## S3ason

Good price without shipping. With shipping, meh. You'll have to let me know how you like the wire, I may order some


----------



## adi518

I sent Nils the link to the wire and he said it's perfect.


----------



## mandrix

I recently bought 400 foot, white, black and blue wire for $26.55 from a guy on Ebay I buy wire from. Free shipping. But for where your at, maybe you got a good price.
This guy sells 100 foot sections, any color and you can mix colors with 200 foot, 400 foot orders. It's not on spools or anything, just loose wire coiled up.


----------



## adi518

Did you check the diameter?









A lot of them have insulation that is too thick. Before checking I bought some cable in 20m length and turned out it's 2.5mm so now I need to get rid of it somehow. ;\

These kind of things I honestly believe should be bought locally. It's not a desert out here. Some stuff is a lot cheaper than in Europe.









Btw, I think the FAQ section lacks a bit info about wires. It needs some emphasizing.


----------



## mandrix

Yeah, I've ordered wire from this guy before and used it. There is no excess insulation, and the pins crimp just fine. I've never actually measured the OD of the wire, but as long as it works there's no problem.
This is white and black sleeving, btw. It looks off because the monitor is in the background shining on it.


----------



## adi518

The wire has landed:










Absolutely different than the cable I had before. Looks perfect. 50m in Black and 20m in White.


----------



## Furion92

I used exactly the same white cable for my build. It's a little bit thin and not 100% white, so you will want to stretch your sleeving pretty hard.


----------



## remotehugger

man, i am so disappointed - i just sleeved my sph850 - and the video card doesnt work with my sleeved cables - if i unplug the sleeved ones and plug in the extra cables it works fine - i sleeved the 6 pin just as it was but had to make 2 split wires for the 6 pin to 8 pin cable - i thought i did it rite but apparently not - what is the best way to try and figure out whats wrong with my sleeved cables ?


----------



## adi518

maybe if you post some pictures it'll help figuring out what's wrong.


----------



## remotehugger

ok - but im not sure what pics to post - i have figured out that it is definitely my 6 pin to 8 pin that i sleeved cuz if i leave my 6 pin to 6 pin that i sleeved plugged in and then plug in the 6 pin to 8 pin that i didnt sleeve it works fine - so i just need to figure out what i did wrong sleeving my 6 pin to 8 pin - what pics or info should i post for help with this ?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> ok - but im not sure what pics to post - i have figured out that it is definitely my 6 pin to 8 pin that i sleeved cuz if i leave my 6 pin to 6 pin that i sleeved plugged in and then plug in the 6 pin to 8 pin that i didnt sleeve it works fine - so i just need to figure out what i did wrong sleeving my 6 pin to 8 pin - what pics or info should i post for help with this ?


I'm guessing the sleeved cables that you did, eh ? Those seem to be the problem, both ends and the cable runs themselves. Someone may be able to help out, you never know.


----------



## Furion92

I think I can already guess what you did wrong. The 2 extra pins from 6pin pci-e to 8pin pci-e are 2*ground. I guess you've taken 1 +12V and 1 ground.
See here on page 3.


----------



## remotehugger

ok - so from the 6 pin i spliced the 2 end wires which hopefully can be seen in the pic - i ran the top spliced wire to the top 2 holes and the bottom spliced wire to the bottom 2 holes - also hopefully can be seen in the pic - now with it like this my rig will power up but the m/b gives me the red video diag. light and also the red trouble light on my vid card comes on - i tried running the top spliced wire to the far right upper and lower plugs on the 8 pin connector and the bottom spliced wire to the plugs next to that and then my rig wouldnt even power up - (hopefully that made sense - lol)


----------



## remotehugger

man guys im so sorry - this pic was supposed to be in the other post, not that double pic - idk what the heck i did -


----------



## Furion92

You did exactly what I've guessed







You spliced the wrong wires. You spliced one from the upper row and one from the lower row. You should have spliced two wires from the lower row


----------



## remotehugger

you were exactly rite furion - the splice is fine but where i put them was wrong - i put the bottom spliced wires into the far end of the 8 pin and then moved the other spliced wire down and over and voila ! evrything works as it should ! thank you so much ! only problem is now the color pattern is all screwy - grrrrr.....oh well, at least thats fairly easy to fix - thanks again !


----------



## remotehugger

got my samples from molex today - got the gold ones and the tin ones - the quality of these is soooo much better than what i got from performance pc's - wish i would of known - you can get 100 of the gold ones from Heilind for 30 bucks or 200 of the tin ones for about 20 bucks (not including shipping)


----------



## Furion92

Don't you want to censor your address?


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> got my samples from molex today - got the gold ones and the tin ones - the quality of these is soooo much better than what i got from performance pc's - wish i would of known - you can get 100 of the gold ones from Heilind for 30 bucks or 200 of the tin ones for about 20 bucks (not including shipping)


Same same. I can get 100 for 5$ right at the dealership. Look for a nearby dealership, retailers will always rip you off on these small items.

I edited the price. It was 18 but in my currency not dollars, so yeh, 100 original molex pins for as high as 5$!


----------



## remotehugger

i did not know to go to a dealership - thanks for that - and i didnt even realize my address was showing - can i still sensor it out or is it too late ? its not TOO big of a deal but id rather block it out if i can -


----------



## socketus

edit the post, crop the picture - there's online photo editors - google it - then upload the edited pic


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> i did not know to go to a dealership - thanks for that - and i didnt even realize my address was showing - can i still sensor it out or is it too late ? its not TOO big of a deal but id rather block it out if i can -


It's still quoted in adi528's post #307.


----------



## remotehugger

i cant do anything about that can i ? can adi528 edit his post ?


----------



## adi518

Sorry. I removed it.


----------



## remotehugger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Sorry. I removed it.


dont be sorry - it was my fault - i didnt even realize it showed - but thank you for deleting it








i appreciate it -


----------



## secondthought

I noticed that you said you would talk bout prepping for white MDPC slevving later in the FAQ, and unless I didn't see it you forgot to mention it again.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *secondthought*
> 
> I noticed that you said you would talk bout prepping for white MDPC slevving later in the FAQ, and unless I didn't see it you forgot to mention it again.


If you are making up you're own wiring, use white wire with white sleeving. If you are sleeving other colored wire with white sleeving then wrap it lengthwise with white electrical tape.
I personally have never wrapped any wire with tape so I can't give you any tips on it, but the idea is a light background for light colored sleeving, dark for dark sleeving basically.
Those that have wrapped wire with tape might give you some tips on any other colors you can use.


----------



## Moebieus

Was wondering where I could get the plugs for the Seasonic Platinum 1000w
Wanted to make my own cables because I want the original cables for backup and such.
Thanks in advance


----------



## socketus

antronelectronics.com - call them up, I bought a set of x-850 cables for $30
They'd probably sell ya the connectors only, tho.


----------



## nawon72

These should be the correct SeaSonic connectors (taken from BigElf):

50-36-1669 (16 Pin for Seasonic PSU side for 24 pin)

50-36-1674 (12 Pin for Seasonic dual PCIe PSU side)

50-36-1671 (10 Pin for Seasonic PSU side for 24 pin)

50-36-1672 (6 Pin Connector for Seasonic sata & 4-Pin Molex power. THIS IS NOT PCIe Compatible)


----------



## Moebieus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> antronelectronics.com - call them up, I bought a set of x-850 cables for $30
> They'd probably sell ya the connectors only, tho.


I will check into that, yea all I want is the connectors cause I want to make my own wires, some of the wires are to short or to long for my liking =D
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> These should be the correct SeaSonic connectors (taken from BigElf):
> 50-36-1669 (16 Pin for Seasonic PSU side for 24 pin)
> 50-36-1674 (12 Pin for Seasonic dual PCIe PSU side)
> 50-36-1671 (10 Pin for Seasonic PSU side for 24 pin)
> 50-36-1672 (6 Pin Connector for Seasonic sata & 4-Pin Molex power. THIS IS NOT PCIe Compatible)


Thanks for this info exactly what I needed


----------



## mandrix

This was current as of June/2012:

Antron Electronics Inc
341 Paseo Tesoro
Walnut, CA 91789
USA
Voice: 909-595-8860
Fax: 909-598-6000

You don't really need part numbers, just tell them what you want. They didn't put any part numbers for the connectors on my invoice.


----------



## Moebieus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> This was current as of June/2012:
> Antron Electronics Inc
> 341 Paseo Tesoro
> Walnut, CA 91789
> USA
> Voice: 909-595-8860
> Fax: 909-598-6000
> You don't really need part numbers, just tell them what you want. They didn't put any part numbers for the connectors on my invoice.


Thanks for this I am sure I could just say I need the connectors for the Seasonic 1000w Platinum?
Would prob do all of them instead of doing two orders at separate places =D


----------



## mandrix

I'm sure they will know what you're talking about, since they are the US supplier for SeaSonic. You need to specify if you want white or black connectors, since they have both.
Don't forget the PCIe 12 pin connector(s) if you need them.


----------



## adi518

Hey guys! Great news! I received the MDPC crimp tool today and it's awesome. Also had a major coincident.









My uncle is the tech chief in a cable supplies company, just 5 minutes away from my home. Few days ago we talked about these molex pins and such (not the ATX ones exactly) . Today I picked up the MDPC tool from the post office and then had to pick up a router from my uncle's office. I thought why not unbox the tool while I'm there? so I did and we compared it to Pressmaster's tool which is the real brand behind the original molex tool (the one that costs 200$) and also, I then found out he had bought the exact same ATX pins (39-00-0039) I got with Nils's order, 100% match. So basically no need to get those pins off Nils anymore which leaves me with more money to spend on the sleeving.


















Oddly, the sales man charged my uncle 0.06$ a piece while I was told 0.045$.









I gotta say, these drawings are awesome haha


----------



## Alastair

I don't want to sleeve individual cables just the bunches. Would an aftermarket sleeving kit such as this work for bunch sleeving, or only more for individual cable sleeving?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Hey guys! Great news! I received the MDPC crimp tool today and it's awesome. Also had a major coincident.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My uncle is the tech chief in a cable supplies company, just 5 minutes away from my home. Few days ago we talked about these molex pins and such (not the ATX ones exactly) . Today I picked up the MDPC tool from the post office and then had to pick up a router from my uncle's office. I thought why not unbox the tool while I'm there? so I did and we compared it to Pressmaster's tool which is the real brand behind the original molex tool (the one that costs 200$) and also, I then found out he had bought the exact same ATX pins (39-00-0039) I got with Nils's order, 100% match. So basically no need to get those pins off Nils anymore which leaves me with more money to spend on the sleeving.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oddly, the sales man charged my uncle 0.06$ a piece while I was told 0.045$.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I gotta say, these drawings are awesome haha
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cool. Glad you found some locally.


----------



## Alastair

Guys would this tubing suffice as cable sleeving?

Some people say my cables will overheat! Is this true? Here in South Africa it looks to me like it is almost impossible to find cable sleeving! So I am going to have to substitute! There is no need to sleeve my 24pin ATX as it came sleeved. But not all the rest of them. Any insight will help me thanks!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Guys would this tubing suffice as cable sleeving?
> 
> Some people say my cables will overheat! Is this true? Here in South Africa it looks to me like it is almost impossible to find cable sleeving! So I am going to have to substitute! There is no need to sleeve my 24pin ATX as it came sleeved. But not all the rest of them. Any insight will help me thanks!


More likely it will be more just for cable management, since sleeving involves the individual wires, and that looks way too thick for that.

Sent from my brain to my nerves to my hands to my fingers to my phone to this post.


----------



## Alastair

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Guys would this tubing suffice as cable sleeving?
> 
> Some people say my cables will overheat! Is this true? Here in South Africa it looks to me like it is almost impossible to find cable sleeving! So I am going to have to substitute! There is no need to sleeve my 24pin ATX as it came sleeved. But not all the rest of them. Any insight will help me thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> More likely it will be more just for cable management, since sleeving involves the individual wires, and that looks way too thick for that.
> 
> Sent from my brain to my nerves to my hands to my fingers to my phone to this post.
Click to expand...

No no I'm not sleeving the individual cables. Just the bunches of cables.


----------



## Moebieus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I'm sure they will know what you're talking about, since they are the US supplier for SeaSonic. You need to specify if you want white or black connectors, since they have both.
> Don't forget the PCIe 12 pin connector(s) if you need them.


They actually only sold the wires not the connectors by themselves,I spoke to a guy named George (the sales manager) via email, but anyways I got to thinking and that actually helps me for wire placement, I forgot that I would need to match the wires up haha







I got my package from Nils as of yesterday but some stuff came up in life (doesn't it always) so that's on hold but soon I should have the wires and I can start working on what I need to =D

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> We compared it to Pressmaster's tool which is the real brand behind the original molex tool (the one that costs 200$).


How did the Pressmaster crimper compare to the MDPC-X crimper?


----------



## adi518

We didn't have time to try some crimps so I just made a quick comparison of the dies and it's close but not the same. Next time, I'll make some crimps and photos.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moebieus*
> 
> They actually only sold the wires not the connectors by themselves,I spoke to a guy named George (the sales manager) via email, but anyways I got to thinking and that actually helps me for wire placement, I forgot that I would need to match the wires up haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my package from Nils as of yesterday but some stuff came up in life (doesn't it always) so that's on hold but soon I should have the wires and I can start working on what I need to =D
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2


That's strange. I definitely bought connectors for the 24 pin from them a few months ago. Yes, George Lai is the sales manager, he's who I dealt with. Maybe they changed their policy, IDK.
Here's a copy and paste from the sales PDF they sent me:

1.00 10+18pin to 24pin 10.00
1.00 10 pin connector 2.00
1.00 18 pin connector 2.00
1.00 24 pin connector 2.00
USPS delivery confirmation #: 9405
5036 9930 0060 6813 92
Sales Tax
Shipping Charge 7.00
23.00
23.00
0.00
Payment/Credit Applied
Total Invoice Amount
TOTAL


----------



## Alastair

Well I went ahead and sleeved my cables with the plastic tubing and this is the end result.


It might not look as awesome as your set ups but for me it will suffice as it is really hard to find sleeving around here for some strange reason.


----------



## Moebieus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> That's strange. I definitely bought connectors for the 24 pin from them a few months ago. Yes, George Lai is the sales manager, he's who I dealt with. Maybe they changed their policy, IDK.
> Here's a copy and paste from the sales PDF they sent me:
> 1.00 10+18pin to 24pin 10.00
> 1.00 10 pin connector 2.00
> 1.00 18 pin connector 2.00
> 1.00 24 pin connector 2.00
> USPS delivery confirmation #: 9405
> 5036 9930 0060 6813 92
> Sales Tax
> Shipping Charge 7.00
> 23.00
> 23.00
> 0.00
> Payment/Credit Applied
> Total Invoice Amount
> TOTAL


Either way I am just happy I found the cables I need =D Want to keep my current ones pristine =D


----------



## remotehugger

hey all - i am gonna make a custom sata power cable for my rig and then sleeve it of course - was wondering if anyone knows what size wire i should use ? i am gonna use the connectors that came with my CM SPH 850 - they are the kind that the wire slides in between the 2 knife like cutters and makes the connection that way - the original uses 18 awg wire with 4 connectors, but since i am going to make the custom one about 10 inches longer should i use heavier gauge wire to make sure everything gets enough power ? also does anyone know if 16 awg wire would even fit into the connectors ? i havent tried it yet cuz' im using both canles at the moment - thanks for any info -


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> the original uses 18 awg wire with 4 connectors, but since i am going to make the custom one about 10 inches longer should i use heavier gauge wire to make sure everything gets enough power ?


Unless your cables are like 10 feet long, there's no reason to step up to 16 gauge. The sata push-in power connectors are designed for 18 awg anyway.


----------



## remotehugger

cool - thank you - and yea, the cable will end up being about 27 inches total - appreciate the help !


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> 
> got my samples from molex today - got the gold ones and the tin ones - the quality of these is soooo much better than what i got from performance pc's - wish i would of known - you can get 100 of the gold ones from Heilind for 30 bucks or 200 of the tin ones for about 20 bucks (not including shipping)


What's the part number for the gold ones?


----------



## remotehugger

that one is the part number for the gold one- its only the tip that is gold plated -


----------



## adi518

You mean 0457501212 ?


----------



## remotehugger

yes, sorry - that is the molex part number -


----------



## Demented

Mmmmolex...

Sent from my brain to my nerves to my hands to my fingers to my phone to this post.


----------



## nawon72

Quote:
Originally Posted by *adi518* 

You mean 0457501212 ?


> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *remotehugger*
> 
> yes, sorry - that is the molex part number -
Click to expand...

In case you wanted the cheaper reel, here is the part number:

(Reel) 45750-1211 (Female) (Gold)

(Bag) 45750-1212 (Female) (Gold)


----------



## Buska103

I need around 10 3pin fan female connectors and pins, PPCs has them but the connectors are $1 each and they don't even sell the pins...
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_923_925_931&products_id=30349


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> I need around 10 3pin fan female connectors and pins, PPCs has them but the connectors are $1 each and they don't even sell the pins...
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_923_925_931&products_id=30349


You do know those are male connectors you linked, right?
Here's links to female fan connectors, pins are optional:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_923_924&products_id=1389
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=60_923_164&products_id=1167
But yeah, the male hooded connectors are more expensive if that's what you meant. I just had to order a bunch myself to make some fan harnesses and it gets expensive real fast at $1 a piece. I wanted them quick so I also ordered pins, I rather would have ordered the pins from Newark or somewhere cheaper.


----------



## Buska103

HMPTH, yeah, I meant male 3pin connectors. Not sure if I need hooded connectors though, I though I couldn't use the exposed ones? I don't see a proper way of connecting the leads to the wire unless I solder them??

I'm trying to make a couple custom length fan connectors (3 fans to 1 header, etc) for radiator fan management,


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> HMPTH, yeah, I meant male 3pin connectors. Not sure if I need hooded connectors though, I though I couldn't use the exposed ones? I don't see a proper way of connecting the leads to the wire unless I solder them??
> 
> I'm trying to make a couple custom length fan connectors (3 fans to 1 header, etc) for radiator fan management,


Unfortunately, you have to solder those connectors.

BigElf has previously posted the the hooded housing's part number, but I am not 100% sure it is the correct one. The 22-01-3037 is 2.54mm pitch while the one BigElf posted is 2.50mm.

In case you want to have a look at it:

29-11-0033 (Hooded) Unconfirmed

Here are some part numbers you will be interested in.

Female 3pin terminals:

08-50-0114 (Bag)

08-50-0113 (Reel)

Female Housing:

22-01-3037 (Color: Natural [White])

Male Housing:

22-23-2031 (Natural [White])


----------



## NewHighScore

Anyone know where I can get the equivalent of this in Canada?

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16411/ele-1114/16AWG_Hook_Up_UL1007_Approved_Wire_-_Black.html

I am going to be doing my cables to custom length and would prefer not to have to take it up the butt from customs.


----------



## adi518

Why do you need a 16 awg wire? The standard is 18. :\


----------



## NewHighScore

My corsair AX750 uses 16awg. Do you know where I can get some in Canada? When I google it all I come up with is ugly speaker wire.


----------



## adi518

I'm nearly 100% sure AX750 is a Seasonic unit. When I check my X-560 cables I can see that Seasonic went with 18 gauge and the sole cable that's 16 is the CPU cable. Imo, you can too stick to 18 gauge. It'll be easier to follow sleeving guides, crimping etc'. I'm making whole new cables for my psu and everything is going to be 18 gauge.

Regarding the search of these wires. It can be tricky because there're many parameters you have to nail down. My country is a lot more limited than NA and I still managed to find that perfect quality wire so most probably, you can too.

This should be a very good wire: http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial

I got this link from Lutro0. Should be added asap to FAQ because it does lack a wire section. :\


----------



## NewHighScore

it is 100% 16 awg. I am looking at it right now. I did not know that I could use both though.







And thanks for the link. That is much cheaper then frozencpu.


----------



## mandrix

Anyone have a link to male fan pins and the male hooded connectors? Much tired of paying a buck a piece for male housings and I just went through 21, fabbing up some harnesses.


----------



## socketus

@ mandrix - nawon72's post a page back ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Unfortunately, you have to solder those connectors.
> 
> BigElf has previously posted the the hooded housing's part number, but I am not 100% sure it is the correct one. The 22-01-3037 is 2.54mm pitch while the one BigElf posted is 2.50mm.
> 
> In case you want to have a look at it:
> 29-11-0033 (Hooded) Unconfirmed
> 
> Here are some part numbers you will be interested in.
> 
> Female 3pin terminals:
> 08-50-0114 (Bag)
> 08-50-0113 (Reel)
> 
> Female Housing:
> 22-01-3037 (Color: Natural [White])
> 
> Male Housing:
> 22-23-2031 (Natural [White])


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> This should be a very good wire: http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial
> 
> I got this link from Lutro0. Should be added asap to *FAQ* because it *does lack a wire section*. :\


I would like to see this as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Anyone have a link to male fan pins and the male hooded connectors? Much tired of paying a buck a piece for male housings and I just went through 21, fabbing up some harnesses.
> 
> 
> 
> @ mandrix - nawon72's post a page back ?
Click to expand...

I can't guarantee it is the correct one, especially since it is a SPOX™ housing whereas the female housing linked is a KK® housing. Maybe Lutro0 knows the part number.


----------



## mandrix

I'm looking for the male hooded fan connectors, not those open solder type, guys. I have used the solder type mostly because I have a bunch of extensions accumulated with those connectors, but I usually put shrink over the connection. The hooded type are actually a pita (for me) to pin for some reason but I still like them better for making harnesses' and stuff for fan arrays (like on radiators). I could just get rid of the connectors but that gets problematic when you have to take things apart (like a pedestal).
Currently the male hoooded fan connectors are a buck a pop at PPC's, and like I said that gets real expensive real fast when you have a bunch of fans. My current build has 16 fans in the pedestal, 5 in the case, and 1 for cooling the MCP35x.
Since everything is connected to an AQ5, there are only so many places to plug fans in hence the harnesses'.


----------



## Big Elf

The cheapest I've found them is at *Frozen CPU* at 75c. In the UK, on the rare occasions they're available, they sell for the equivalent of $2. Note that they're painted so if scratched they're brown underneath. Frozen CPU also sell the *male pins*.

I spent a lot of time on the Molex site a few months ago trying to track them down without success. The SPOX connectors are wrong and I'm surprised I mentioned them. I'm not convinced that Molex make them but would be happy to be proved wrong.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I'm nearly 100% sure AX750 is a Seasonic unit. When I check my X-560 cables I can see that Seasonic went with 18 gauge and the sole cable that's 16 is the CPU cable. Imo, you can too stick to 18 gauge. It'll be easier to follow sleeving guides, crimping etc'. I'm making whole new cables for my psu and everything is going to be 18 gauge.
> Regarding the search of these wires. It can be tricky because there're many parameters you have to nail down. My country is a lot more limited than NA and I still managed to find that perfect quality wire so most probably, you can too.
> This should be a very good wire: http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial
> I got this link from Lutro0. Should be added asap to FAQ because it does lack a wire section. :\


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> I would like to see this as well.
> 
> I can't guarantee it is the correct one, especially since it is a SPOX™ housing whereas the female housing linked is a KK® housing. Maybe Lutro0 knows the part number.


Ok Ok, I get the hint lol

I will work on it today. =P


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The cheapest I've found them is at *Frozen CPU* at 75c. In the UK, on the rare occasions they're available, they sell for the equivalent of $2. Note that they're painted so if scratched they're brown underneath. Frozen CPU also sell the *male pins*.
> I spent a lot of time on the Molex site a few months ago trying to track them down without success. The SPOX connectors are wrong and I'm surprised I mentioned them. I'm not convinced that Molex make them but would be happy to be proved wrong.


that's what I was afraid of. They are hard little buggers to track down at what I would call reasonable prices. I've just been ordering them from PPC's when I have other stuff to order, I don't really want to pay shipping for just a few connectors. I figured if Mouser or Newark had them I could combine an order with pins.


----------



## adi518

I've been wondering whether those fan connectors are Molex made or not.


----------



## Demented

Mmmmolex.

I'm not answering anyone's question. I just had a strong desire to say the word Mmmmmolex.


----------



## NewHighScore

I hate molex I wish they were obselete. So big and chunky.


----------



## eXXon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Mmmmolex.
> I'm not answering anyone's question. I just had a strong desire to say the word Mmmmmolex.


----------



## Moebieus

So I currently own a Seasonic 1000w Platinum and sleeved some of the cables and in short don't have the patience for it (darn the impatience that leads to anger)








I want something that will look nice and simplifies the process being this is my first time.

So here is the question. Lutro0 has mentioned the Corsair AX1200 so I know that it is a simple and easy PSU to sleeve. Does anyone know if the Corsair AX1200i is just as easy as the AX1200 The only reason I ask is because the price difference is $50 and I like the efficiency and the fact that my current PSU fan never spins up so its one less fan I have to worry about silencing.

Just a thought, been mulling this over for awhile and I am ready to do this.









An after thought Lutro0 also mentioned a Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid as well as a Silverstone ST1000-P I personally like the Silverstone ST1000-G but either way, this are significantly less, but I am worried about quality and a reliability. Any thoughts?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moebieus*
> 
> So I currently own a Seasonic 1000w Platinum and sleeved some of the cables and in short don't have the patience for it (darn the impatience that leads to anger)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want something that will look nice and simplifies the process being this is my first time.
> So here is the question. Lutro0 has mentioned the Corsair AX1200 so I know that it is a simple and easy PSU to sleeve. Does anyone know if the Corsair AX1200i is just as easy as the AX1200 The only reason I ask is because the price difference is $50 and I like the efficiency and the fact that my current PSU fan never spins up so its one less fan I have to worry about silencing.
> Just a thought, been mulling this over for awhile and I am ready to do this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An after thought Lutro0 also mentioned a Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid as well as a Silverstone ST1000-P I personally like the Silverstone ST1000-G but either way, this are significantly less, but I am worried about quality and a reliability. Any thoughts?


All of those powersupplies are good.

I have a 1200i that Corsair sent for my sponsored mod and I beleive the pinout is a an easy one (havent opened it yet) , only difference is the 24pin is split into two connectors on the psu side, but that shouldn't cause much issues.


----------



## Moebieus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> All of those powersupplies are good.
> I have a 1200i that Corsair sent for my sponsored mod and I beleive the pinout is a an easy one (havent opened it yet) , only difference is the 24pin is split into two connectors on the psu side, but that shouldn't cause much issues.


Yea my main thing is I want the cables to look clean and not all twisted and mangled, wasn't sure if I could actually move some wires, not very knowledgeable on electrical things so not sure if it would work or not.

As for the split connector that would be ok as long as it still mirrors the mobo side or I can make it mirror.
Thinking more along the lines of the ax1200i, for $50 more I can get an almost identical PSU except for the bigger output.









Thanks for the heads up Mike it is much appreciated


----------



## mandrix

Well I can tell you from experience that the split connectors on the Seasonic platinum 1000 is a pita to keep neat.
This is the motherboard side, but in between this and the psu there is a bunch of criss-crossed cables, lol.

This is my second time sleeving a platinum 1000, and once I again I want to thank Lutro0 in particular and also others who have posted sleeving and double wire connections tutorials.








Without these tutorials I would never have considered sleeving. Mike makes it look so easy.............and you know what, it does get easier!


----------



## Darkling5499

how does one go about sleeving a power cord? as in the one that goes from your PSU to the wall.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkling5499*
> 
> how does one go about sleeving a power cord? as in the one that goes from your PSU to the wall.


There's really no way. Even if SATA sleeve would fit the diameter of the cable itself, it won't expand enough to go over the plug ends.

This is considering you're using MDPC, or para cord or some other type of cable sleeving, and not some huge PET flex stuff.


----------



## Darkling5499

that's depressing. i'd love to get rid of that ugly hunk of cable


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkling5499*
> 
> that's depressing. i'd love to get rid of that ugly hunk of cable


feel free to wait for others to reply. I've only done a little bit of sleeving, so there may be options out there that I am unaware of.


----------



## Moebieus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Well I can tell you from experience that the split connectors on the Seasonic platinum 1000 is a pita to keep neat.
> This is the motherboard side, but in between this and the psu there is a bunch of criss-crossed cables, lol.
> 
> This is my second time sleeving a platinum 1000, and once I again I want to thank Lutro0 in particular and also others who have posted sleeving and double wire connections tutorials.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without these tutorials I would never have considered sleeving. Mike makes it look so easy.............and you know what, it does get easier!


So clean














yea I was working on mine and just didn't like the fact that there would be a space open and that all those wires were so jumbled, wanted something cleaner.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkling5499*
> 
> how does one go about sleeving a power cord? as in the one that goes from your PSU to the wall.


http://www.overclock.net/a/guide-how-to-sleeve-a-psu-power-cord


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/a/guide-how-to-sleeve-a-psu-power-cord


See, I knew I didn't know what I was talking about.


----------



## Lutro0

Added a new Section!

Easy Powersupplies to Sleeve? - Lutro0 what powersupply model is the easiest to sleeve?

I cannot count how many times I get asked that question. Sadly there is not a perfect answer to it as the powersupply list is constantly changing. However there is two series and 1 or two powersupplies that I can most truly recommend.

But before I do that let me explain what constitutes a bad powersupply and why a powersupply would be better than others (in terms of sleeving).

When you sleeve a powersupply you want a fully modular powersupply, the reason for this is you can custom make your own cables and not have to open the powersupply and really make the cables fit into your case exactly how you want. This means not having a ton of extra cable behind your case to mess with and only using the number of cables you need to use.

Why then you ask would any fully modular powersupply be better then another. Two words: Double wires. Anyone who has had to sleeve a double wire will tell you that it is the most aggravating thing about sleeving. That's because you have (should) splice the wire somewhere where it will be hidden so that you only have single wires going into the connector. Now some may try to stuff a double wire into those connectors but this is IMO poor form. When you stuff two wires into the connector beside otherwise single wires the fat double wire look out of place and you lose that symmetrical look of everything being uniform and looking neat. Besides the fact that it's a pain in the butt to get the pin to latch and more than likely it will look bunched. Also when you eliminate the double wires you also get rid of the strange 8pin eps/24pin combos that some powersuppply makers use.

So the stuff that makes up a good powersupply to sleeve or in other words easier is a fully modular powersupply that does not have double wires (or very few) and has a relatively easy pinout and little to no caps/ferrite beads.

You may have heard of the term 1 to 1 or 1-1 powersupply. What this implies is that the cables go from one pin to another with no double on the other side. This is also a term for a extension-like pinout.

So whats a pin out? A pin out in powersupply terms is how the PSU maker electricaly designed the layout for the pins on the powersupply. PSU makers have proprietary set ups on the powersupply side and this is a reason we see all sorts of strange double wires, connectors and the sorts - because it is totally up to the PSU maker to make this how they think it should be and how it can make the PSU more stable. However, on the motherboard side it is always the same as they have to follow the 24pin ATX version 2.0 or the 20pin ATX Version 1.0 standard which is a 24/20 pin layout with the voltages and sense wires always the same. (While we are on this you may notice some powersupplies only using 23 pins with one missing, this is fine as it's still the ATX standard and is not needed and a little Protip is that most of the time including a fake wire for this spot will clean it up and give you a full 24pin once again.)

Caps and ferrite beads are another huge pain for sleevers. PSU makers add these to keep in spec and to clean up and stabilize the power output from the PSU, in most cases with a good PSU these can be removed with little to no effect. But the chance that they will in extreme settings is always there. (Protip: Ferrite beads can be removed by either breaking them with a hammer or simply sliding them off)

Now that you have an understanding of what makes a good/easy powersupply to sleeve lets break down a few suggestions and why I recommend them.

*Corsair AX 1200 / 1200I* -
Now I know you are already asking why not the rest of the AX series from Corsair. The reason for this is the Corsair AX line is basically a Seasonic PSU / One or two other makers rebranded for Corsair. This means they will follow the 20/10 or the likes pinout with mucho double wires. This means a advanced sleeving time with double wires.

However the AX1200 / 1200I is made differently, the 1200/1200i uses a 10/14 to 24pin as well as the rest of the cables being single with the exception of maybe a few. This makes it desirable for easy sleeving. Also to boot the unit itself is of good review and is otherwise pure black and ready for any theme with a covering of a custom sticker.

*Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid Series ( 1050W, 1300W, 850W)* -
Once again these powersupplies are of good review and the color scheme is not intrusive for modding and the cables are a 24pin to 24pin as well as the others. Now you will notice some of the cables use the ribbon configuration, this is not a problem as you can simply tear apart the cables once you have started a small cut.

*Silverstone Strider Gold, Plus, and Evolution Series* -
I could list all of them but there are many and there is a few in there that still have double wires, so I say this disclaimer that you look up photos of the powersupply and look at the pinout to get a positive double check that yours does not have double wires.

Typically if the Strider PSU you pick out has a few blue connector sockets on it, then it does not have double wires or very little.

Most of the Silverstone Striders have positive reviews and for those of us that have been sleeving for a while have done a few of these and are the staple for powersupplies that you intend to sleeve for a mod.
With the exception of the blue sockets this PSU is great for any color scheme when sleeving. They all use a 24pin to 24pin.

Something to keep a note of when sleeving these powersupplies is that the pcie lanes have capacitors on them which Silverstone added to reduce electrical noise and to keep the PSU in spec. However you can cut them off with neglitable effect to the power. Please keep in mind that you should make sure that you have some headroom if you intend to cut off the caps and plan on overclocking. What I mean by this is if your system will draw at max 850w then you should consider getting a model that is 150w or more, this way you are not pushing the PSU to its limits thus increasing the chances of your now cappless PSU from effecting your overclock. However I must add that I have been cutting off these caps for a long time now and have NEVER had a client with an overclock issue and I have had many hardcore overclockers buy cables from me or custom units.

To conclude there is other powersupplies that are out there that might be suitable for sleeving but these are what I have been recommending for a while now and new and experienced sleevers have been very happy with these choices. As more powersupplies come onto the market I will be adding them.


----------



## socketus

Great stuff ! to name only the better PSUs and not to name the less than better PSUs.. typically high level ambassadorship from you, L.

Um, one question - you say that this is a *new section* ? its just a post in the FASQ thread. Just sayin ...


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Um, one question - you say that this is a *new section* ? its just a post in the FASQ thread. Just sayin ...


It was also added to the FAQs (Post #1).


----------



## Lutro0

Yup all new sections are posted to a thread and then added to the front page FAQ


----------



## ZeVo

Do you have to cut off the capacitors in the SilverStone Striders, or would you be fine leaving them the way they are?


----------



## socketus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Do you have to cut off the capacitors in the SilverStone Striders, or would you be fine leaving them the way they are?


Its on the page before and the first page of this fax

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/370#post_18561734


----------



## pratesh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> Do you have to cut off the capacitors in the SilverStone Striders, or would you be fine leaving them the way they are?


It is much easier to cut the caps off the wires and then sleeve. Now, here is where it gets interesting.

You can, after sleeving, reattach the caps, but move the caps to a lower location, lets say close to the PSU(very much like whats done with double wires being joined and hidden behind the motherboard) so the bulk is hidden.

Or you can simply leave the caps off. I've had many friends leave them off and they've never complained about problems. I have heard that the caps are there to reduce coil wine, but my buddies never complained of the coil wine, so I believe its not necessary.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pratesh*
> 
> I have heard that the caps are there to reduce coil wine, but my buddies never complained of the coil wine, so I believe its not necessary.


Caps on wires and coil whine are quite unrelated things. The capacitors aim to reduce voltage ripple by smoothing or filtering direct current, should extend the life of your components; whereas coil whine is a resonance sound caused by an electromagnetic effect on the transformers inside your PSU. The way to fix coil whine is hot glue on the coil to dampen it. Caps added after the transformation will do nothing.


----------



## ZeVo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pratesh*
> 
> It is much easier to cut the caps off the wires and then sleeve. Now, here is where it gets interesting.
> You can, after sleeving, reattach the caps, but move the caps to a lower location, lets say close to the PSU(very much like whats done with double wires being joined and hidden behind the motherboard) so the bulk is hidden.
> Or you can simply leave the caps off. I've had many friends leave them off and they've never complained about problems. I have heard that the caps are there to reduce coil wine, but my buddies never complained of the coil wine, so I believe its not necessary.


Thanks for the help!

I think I will just leave them. Really don't want to mess with anything inside.


----------



## ZeVo

I have a question for you guys..

I was looking up the heat gun Lutro0 recommended but its reviews on Amazon are not the best. Can anyone recommend me something else?


----------



## adi518

They're all pretty much the same. You need two speeds and a 2000w heatgun.


----------



## stealforce

Hey guys,
Thanks for a beautiful community I have learned so much, as you can see I am new to the forum and I planing to do my own sleeving. I was looking around and I i found a guy on ebay selling sleeve i think the user is ubrimstar and he also has a website pcmzd. I found a couple other sellers on ebay but not with the colors density, I know everyone here use MDPC but I was just wondering if anyone has ever bought from him cause I see people has been buying from him. As I am new I cannot post links

If anyone could give me some feedback i would really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealforce*
> 
> website pcmzd


Never seen that before, but can comment about costs. Apart from shipping, PCMZD is $0.49 per foot. MDPC is like $0.29 per foot for non-Europeans (if you register on MDPC and choose non-European country you will see prices without sales tax). If you want cheap, paracord is a better way to start, but if you want quality then MDPC is tried and tested.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeVo*
> 
> I have a question for you guys..
> I was looking up the heat gun Lutro0 recommended but its reviews on Amazon are not the best. Can anyone recommend me something else?


I just use a Wagner heat gun from Lowes. :shrug: It has 650w & 1250w settings: that's like 1000* F and is more than hot enough.
What could be important is if you are able to get a reducer for the gun you buy, to concentrate the heat in a smaller area. I don't personally use one but I can see where it would be handy.


----------



## stealforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Never seen that before, but can comment about costs. Apart from shipping, PCMZD is $0.49 per foot. MDPC is like $0.29 per foot for non-Europeans (if you register on MDPC and choose non-European country you will see prices without sales tax). If you want cheap, paracord is a better way to start, but if you want quality then MDPC is tried and tested.


Thanks for the feedback, I did check out mdpc looks very good. I know its what everyone use, seems like the pcmzd works out to about the same price base on the amount and shipping is decent from pcmzd.

However mdpc is, as you said well known.

Thanks for the help I really appreciate it


----------



## stealforce

I went ahead and place a small order from PCMZD. Will see when I get it.
Also got some from furletters


----------



## nawon72

*PC Crimping Part Numbers List*



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



*Information may not be accurate. DO NOT USE YET.*

*P**C Crimping Part Numbers*

*CONTENTS*

*1. Fans*

*1.1* 4Pin

*1.1.1* Case

*1.1.2* GPU

*1.2* 3Pin

*1.3* Crimp Terminals

*1.3.1* Case

*1.3.2* GPU

*1.4* Extraction & Insertion Tools

*2. 4Pin Peripheral*

*2.1* Molex Crimp Housings

*2.2 * AMP/TE Crimp Housings

*2.3 * Crimp Terminals

*2.3.1* Molex

*2.3.2 * AMP/TE

*2.4 * Molex Extraction & Insertion Tools

*3. ATX*

*3.1 * 20+4 Pin ATX

*3.2 * 24 Pin ATX

*3.2.1* Molex

*3.2.2* AMP/TE

*3.3 * 24 Pin ATX

*3.4 * 6+2 Pin PCI Express

*3.5 * 6 Pin PCI Express

*3.6 * 8 Pin PCI Express

*3.7 * 8 Pin EPS +12 Volt

*3.7.1 * Molex

*3.7.2 * AMP/TE

*3.8 * 4+4 Pin +12 Volt

*3.9* PSU Specific Crimp Housings

*3.9.1 * SeaSonic

*3.10 * Crimp Terminals

*3.10.1* Molex

*3.10.2 * AMP/TE

*3.11 * Extraction & Insertion Tools

*4. Sata Power*

*4.1* Connectors

*4.2* Crimp Housings and Terminals

*4.3* Extraction & Insertion Tools

*5. Other*

*5.1 * Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)

*5.2* Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals

*6. Where to Buy*

*6.1* North America

*6.2* Europe

*6.3* Other

*7. References*

*7.1* Fans

*7.2 * 4Pin Peripheral

*7.3 * ATX

*7.4 * Sata Power

*7.5 * Other

*1. FANS*

*1.1 4Pin*

*1.1.1* *Case*


??? 47053-1000 - Male, PCB Header
??? 47054-1000 - Female, Crimp Housing, Ivory
22-01-3047 - Female, Crimp Housing, Natural (White)
50-29-1559 - Female, Crimp Housing, Black

*1.1.2* *GPU*


51004-0400 - Female, Crimp Housing, Natural (White)?

*1.2 3Pin*


22-23-2031 - Male, PCB Header, Natural (White)

22-01-3037 - Female, Crimp Housing, Natural (White)
50-29-1558 - Female, Crimp Housing, Black

*1.3 Crimp Terminals*

* 1.3.1* *Case*


08-50-0113 - Female, Reel
08-50-0114 - Female, Loose Piece

*1.3.2* *GPU*


50011-8000 - Female, Reel
50011-8100 - Female, Loose Piece

*1.4 Extraction & Insertion Tools*


11-03-0022 - Extraction
63812-0000 - Insertion

*2. 4PIN PERIPHERAL*

*2.1 Molex Crimp Housings*


15-24-4048 - Female, Natural (White)

*2.2 AMP/TE Crimp Housings*


1-480424-0 - Male, Natural (White)
1-480424-9 - Male, Black
1-480426-0 - Female, Natural (White)
1-480426-9 - Female, Black

*2.3 Crimp Terminals*

*2.3.1 Molex*


02-06-2101 - Male, Reel
02-06-2103 - Male, Loose Piece
02-08-1201 - Female, Reel

*2.3.2 AMP/TE*


60620-1 - Male, Loose Piece
60619-1 - Female, Loose Piece

*2.4 Molex Extraction & Insertion Tools*


11-03-0002 - Male, Extraction
11-03-0037 - Female, Extraction

*3. ATX*

*3.1 20+4 Pin*


 

*3.2 24 Pin*

* 3.2.1 Molex*


39-28-1243 - Male, PCB Header, V2, Natural (White)

39-01-2240 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Natural (White)
39-01-2245 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Ivory

50-36-1667 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Black

* 3.2.2 AMP/TE*


2-2029091-4 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Red
2-2029094-4 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Red

2-2029097-4 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Blue
2-2029100-4 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Blue

*3.3 20 Pin*


39-01-2200 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Natural (White)
39-01-2205 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Ivory
39-01-3205 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Black

*3.4 6+2 Pin PCI Express*


 

*3.5 6 Pin PCI Express*


45558-0003 - Male, PCB Header, Black, For use with video cards
45559-0002 - Female, Crimp Housing, Black

*3.6** 8 Pin PCI Express*


 

*3.7** 8 Pin EPS +12 Volt*

*3.7.1** Molex*


39-28-1083 - Male, PCB Header, V2, Natural (White)
39-01-2080 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Natural (White)

39-01-2085 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Ivory
39-01-3085 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Black
50-36-1713 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Black

* 3.7.2 AMP/TE*


2029091-8 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Red
2029094-8 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Red
2029097-8 - Female, Crimp Housing, V2, Blue
2029100-8 - Female, Crimp Housing, V0, Blue

*3.8* *4+4 Pin +12 volt*


 

*3.9 PSU Specific Crimp Housings*

*3.9.1 SeaSonic*


50-36-1669 - 16 Pin, Black, PSU Side 24 pin
50-36-1674 - 12 Pin, Black, PSU Side Dual PCIe
50-36-1671 - 10 Pin, Black, PSU Side 24 pin

50-36-1672 - 6 Pin, Black, Sata & 4 Pin Molex Power, NOT PCIe Compatible

*3.10 Crimp Terminals*

*3.10.1** Molex*


39-00-0040 - Male, Reel
39-00-0041 - Male, Loose Piece
39-00-0038 - Female, Reel
39-00-0039 - Female, Loose Piece

*3.10.2 AMP/TE*


794956-1 - Female, Reel
1586315-1 - Female, Loose Piece

*3.11* *Extraction & Insertion Tools*


11-03-0044 - Male/Female, Extraction

V0 = Higher resistance to flame continuance then V2 (Will extinguish quicker)
A V2 part number is referenced in ATX v2.2

*4. SATA POWER*

*4.1 Connectors & Accesories*


67926-0001 - Connector, Punch Down/"T" Plug, Latch
67926-0011 - Connector, Punch Down/"T" Plug, Bump

67926-0041 - Accesory, Pass Through Cap/Cover
67926-0040 - Accesory, End Cap/Cover
88757-7810 - SATA to Pigtail, 3.3V, It's 67926-0011 With a 1.5m Pigtail
88751-1410 - SATA to Pigtail, It's 67926-0011 With a 1.5m Pigtail

* 4.2 Crimp Housings and Terminals*


67582-0000 - Housing
67581-0000 - Terminal, Reel, For Use With 67582-0000*

*4.3 Extraction & Insertion Tools*


63813-2700 - Extraction

*there are many different crimp terminals with different plating. They are all part of the 67581 product line.

*5. OTHER*

*5.1 Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)*


M20-1060100 Through M20-1061200 - 1 to 12 Contacts (Pins)

*5.2 Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals*


M20-1180042 - Loose Piece, Gold Plated
M20-1180046 - Loose Piece, Tin Plated

*6. WHERE TO BUY - See this thread*

* 6.1 North America*


NewArk
Allied Electronics
Digi-Key
Online Components

*6.**2 Europe*


 

* 6.3 Other*


 

*7. References**

* 7.1 Fans*


http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/022013037_sd.pdf
http://www.overclock.net/t/1327420/pc-crimping-part-numbers-list/0_20#post_18607902

* 7.2 4Pin Peripheral*


 

* 7.3 ATX*


http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/039012245_sd.pdf
http://cables.hillsidekonnection.com/atx-quick.html

* 7.4 SATA Power*


http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/200_20#post_18126187

* 7.5 Other*

*7.5.1** Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)*


http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/7580_20#post_17610917

* 7.5.2 Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals*


http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/120_20#post_17696273
http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/120_20#post_17699968

http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

http://www.overclock.net/t/1136451/molex-atx-power-supply-connectors-and-part-numbers/0_20

**Some references are missing.*


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Hey Lutro0,
> 
> could you add something like this to the FAQ:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PC Crimping Part Numbers
> 
> 
> 
> *PC Crimping Part Numbers*
> 
> *OVERVIEW*
> *1.1* Fans
> *1.2* 4Pin
> *1.3* 3Pin
> *1.4* Crimp Terminals
> *1.5* Extraction & Insertion Tools
> 
> *2.1* 4Pin Peripheral
> 
> *3.1* ATX
> 
> *4.1* Sata Power
> *4.2* Connectors
> *4.3* Crimp Housings and Terminals
> 
> *5.1* Other
> *5.2* Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)
> *5.3* Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals
> 
> *6.1* Where to Buy
> *6.2* North America
> *6.3* Europe
> *6.4* Other
> 
> *7.1* Sources
> 
> *1.1 FANS*
> 
> *1.2 4Pin*
> 
> 47053-1000 - Male, PCB Header
> 47054-1000 - Female, Crimp Housing, Ivory
> *1.3 3Pin*
> 
> 22-23-2031 - Male, PCB Header, Natural (White)
> 22-01-3037 - Female, Crimp Housing, Natural (White)
> *1.4 Crimp Terminals*
> 
> 08-50-0113 - Reel
> 08-50-0114 - Bag
> *1.5 Extraction & Insertion Tools*
> 
> 11-03-0022 - Extraction
> *2.1 4PIN PERIPHERAL*
> 
> *3.1 ATX*
> 
> *4.1 SATA POWER*
> 
> *4.2 Connectors*
> 
> 67926-0001 - Punch-down with Latch
> 67926-0040 - Feed-through Cap**
> 67926-0040 - End Cap**
> * 4.3 Crimp Housings and Terminals*
> 
> 67582-0000 - Housing
> 67581-0000 - Terminal for Use With 67582-0000*
> *there are many different crimp terminals with different plating. They are all part of the 67581 product line.
> **same?
> 
> *5.1 OTHER*
> 
> *5.2 Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)*
> 
> M20-1060100 Through M20-1061200 - 1 to 12 Contacts (Pins)
> *5.3 Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals*
> 
> M20-1180042 - Gold plated
> M20-1180046 - Tin plated
> *6.1 WHERE TO BUY*
> 
> * 6.2 North America*
> 
> NewArk
> Allied Electronics
> Digi-Key
> Online Components
> *6.3* *Europe*
> 
> * 6.4 Other*
> 
> *7.1 SOURCES**
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/200_20#post_18126187
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/120_20#post_17696273
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/120_20#post_17699968
> http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/7580_20#post_17610917
> 
> *This is an incomplete list.
> 
> 
> I didn't fill everything in, because it's to show you what it could look like. And It may not be completely accurate.
> 
> Do you think it should be in a separate thread?


I was thinking of proposing something similar. I have written down the molex numbers of the pins and connectors that I need to order, it would be good to add it in the FAQ, it would help all those that are getting started with sleeving.
Lutro0, if you are ok with this idea we ("we" intended as OCN members) can complete nawon72's list and spare you some work


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Hey Lutro0,
> 
> could you add something like this to the FAQ:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PC Crimping Part Numbers
> 
> 
> 
> *PC Crimping Part Numbers*
> 
> *OVERVIEW*
> *1.1* Fans
> *1.2* 4Pin
> *1.3* 3Pin
> *1.4* Crimp Terminals
> *1.5* Extraction & Insertion Tools
> 
> *2.1* 4Pin Peripheral
> 
> *3.1* ATX
> 
> *4.1* Sata Power
> *4.2* Connectors
> *4.3* Crimp Housings and Terminals
> 
> *5.1* Other
> *5.2* Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)
> *5.3* Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals
> 
> *6.1* Where to Buy
> *6.2* North America
> *6.3* Europe
> *6.4* Other
> 
> *7.1* Sources
> 
> *1.1 FANS*
> 
> *1.2 4Pin*
> 
> 47053-1000 - Male, PCB Header
> 47054-1000 - Female, Crimp Housing, Ivory
> *1.3 3Pin*
> 
> 22-23-2031 - Male, PCB Header, Natural (White)
> 22-01-3037 - Female, Crimp Housing, Natural (White)
> *1.4 Crimp Terminals*
> 
> 08-50-0113 - Reel
> 08-50-0114 - Bag
> *1.5 Extraction & Insertion Tools*
> 
> 11-03-0022 - Extraction
> *2.1 4PIN PERIPHERAL*
> 
> *3.1 ATX*
> 
> *4.1 SATA POWER*
> 
> *4.2 Connectors*
> 
> 67926-0001 - Punch-down with Latch
> 67926-0040 - Feed-through Cap**
> 67926-0040 - End Cap**
> * 4.3 Crimp Housings and Terminals*
> 
> 67582-0000 - Housing
> 67581-0000 - Terminal for Use With 67582-0000*
> *there are many different crimp terminals with different plating. They are all part of the 67581 product line.
> **same?
> 
> *5.1 OTHER*
> 
> *5.2 Motherboard Crimp Housings (Connectors)*
> 
> M20-1060100 Through M20-1061200 - 1 to 12 Contacts (Pins)
> *5.3 Motherboard Connector Crimp Terminals*
> 
> M20-1180042 - Gold plated
> M20-1180046 - Tin plated
> *6.1 WHERE TO BUY*
> 
> * 6.2 North America*
> 
> NewArk
> Allied Electronics
> Digi-Key
> Online Components
> *6.3* *Europe*
> 
> * 6.4 Other*
> 
> *7.1 SOURCES**
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/200_20#post_18126187
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/120_20#post_17696273
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/120_20#post_17699968
> http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/7580_20#post_17610917
> 
> *This is an incomplete list.
> 
> 
> I didn't fill everything in, because it's to show you what it could look like. And It may not be completely accurate.
> 
> Do you think it should be in a separate thread?


No way, that belongs in here. =)

Lets get it finished up and then I will add it towards the front of the FAQ. =)


----------



## strych9

Hey Lutro0, is the OCZ ZT 650W a good psu to sleeve?


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carmas*
> 
> Lutro0, if you are ok with this idea we ("we" intended as OCN members) can complete nawon72's list and spare you some work


Please post any changes here, or PM me. Otherwise we will end up doing the same work twice.

We could start a new thread for people to make changes and post them, or everyone can post in the FAQ once and edit that post.

For now I'll be editing my previous post with any changes.

*Question:* Does OCN screw up the formatting when copy+pasting from Microsoft Word? I will be able to save some time by doing everything in Word, then copying it to OCN.


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> Please post any changes here, or PM me. Otherwise we will end up doing the same work twice.


I will PM you later today after work.


----------



## nawon72

I wish I found this earlier:

ATX Connectors and Pins - Quick List

I think my part number list should be made into multiple charts for readability.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> I wish I found this earlier:
> 
> ATX Connectors and Pins - Quick List
> 
> I think my part number list should be made into multiple charts for readability.


I agree nawon. Once you have your version set up let me know and I will get it added (with credit to you of course Good job!)


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *nawon72*
> 
> I wish I found this earlier:
> 
> ATX Connectors and Pins - Quick List
> 
> I think my part number list should be made into multiple charts for readability.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree nawon. Once you have your version set up let me know and I will get it added (with credit to you of course Good job!)
Click to expand...

I should put the list in a new thread and your FAQ, so It can get more exposure. The new thread is especially important for us to get the community involved, because how many people are going to see it at the end of this thread?

I just realized how easy it is to find part numbers in Molex's CAD drawings. For example, you may have been looking for these:

50-29-1559 - 4 Pin, Female, Crimp Housing, Black

50-29-1558 - 3 Pin, Female, Crimp Housing, Black

*Edit:* I'll have to start a new thread soon, or I won't know what part numbers people want.

*Edit2:* Please continue discussion in the PC Crimping Part Numbers List thread.

.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Sleeving Groups? - Is there any sites dedicated to sleeving?
> 
> There is many that can be mentioned, however the one of the bests sites that are around are of course the one you are on right now. http://www.overclock.net/f/17973/cables-and-sleeving
> 
> However there has been a combination of international sleevers on Facebook that I suggest you poke your head into and gather information and meet other sleevers. This is handy mainly for those outside the USA.
> 
> Please check it out here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ICSCommunity/


----------



## Toad Boy

Huge respect for a brilliant F & Q.

I want to make my own extensions, to get the really satisfying U shape.

Just really confused about the voltages. Is there a single type of wire I can use for all cables ( 24 pin, Sata power, PCI-E). I've seen either 16 or 18 gauge thrown around in other forums and threads.
What do you use Lutro0? Links if possible


----------



## nawon72

Lutro0 uses 18AWG, and I believe it was this wire: http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346811988&sr=8-2


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toad Boy*
> 
> Huge respect for a brilliant F & Q.
> I want to make my own extensions, to get the really satisfying U shape.
> Just really confused about the voltages. Is there a single type of wire I can use for all cables ( 24 pin, Sata power, PCI-E). I've seen either 16 or 18 gauge thrown around in other forums and threads.
> What do you use Lutro0? Links if possible


Nawon posted one of the wire types I use, and honestly dont mess around with 16awg. Just stick to a nice 18awg. The listed wire is a nice one in the fact that is has a small diameter then most. This allows for an easy sleeving session as the pin and sleeve will slide right in.


----------



## nezff

Have you guys seen this tool:

Pin Removal tool


----------



## aqualad

Looks good....However looking at the reviews, I would just spend the extra $ and get the original Molex


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> Have you guys seen this tool:
> Pin Removal tool


Like aqua said. I have personally tested and used almost every tool out there. Compared to the original Molex tool the rest are not even comparable for durability and successful removal.


----------



## Lutro0

New section added!
Quote:


> Training Your Sleeved Cables - How do I train a sleeved cable to bend a certain way and look cleaner? Also, how do I get the same look as the cables that I see in your pictures?
> 
> I get asked the latter question all the time. If you have read through the FAQ you will know by now there is a huge different between an extension and OEM sleeving.
> 
> An extension by design simply extends the existing cable, this allow for a perfect 1-1 pinout that goes straight from one connector to the other. This allows for a perfect looking cable and is one of the reason my sleeved cables pictures look perfect and rainbow or "flow" exactly the way I want them.
> 
> OEM psu sleeving (sleeving the existing cables) however will be a harder task as you are at the mercy of the PSU maker and the pinout they have used. This can make training your cable very difficult. However read the following tips for producing a better result.
> 
> There are eight tips for achieving a good looking cable in terms of organization and training it to "flow" properly.
> 
> *1.* _Tighten the sleeve as much as possible! This will work with plastic sleeve the best - but is still totally possible with paracord if you stretch it right. If you get the right stretch down and do it consistently - the full cable will hold its shape better._
> 
> *2.* _As you are sleeving and putting the wires back into the connector, bend and train the cable as you finish each row. This will give you an upper hand when you end up training the whole cable. To train the cables - simply hold the row in your hand and do slight bends in the direction you want the cable to go all the way from the front of the cable to the back. If done properly it will make the final training of the full cable much easier._
> 
> *3.* _Train, train, and train the finished cable, then come back and do it some more. Do this before you put it in the system and after. For example hold all the rows together and bend in the direction you have been training them by doing slight bends from the front to the back. Once the cable is in the system do the same thing until you get the desired result._
> 
> *4.* _Zip-ties are your friends! If you get handy with some zip ties this will make it easier when its placed into the system - a few well-placed goes a long way. For example, a zip-tie behind the case on a 24pin will bundle the cable some and allow you to train it easier on the facing side._
> 
> *5.* _Learning about wire lengths and how to use them to your advantage will help a long way into getting the cable to bend the way you want. This however takes time and trial and error. For example making one row slightly longer on the outer bend will give you some extra slack to bend the cable in the right direction. This however is mainly for extensions or pcie/ eps cables._
> 
> *6.* _The wire you use will affect how easy it is to train the cable. Try different kinds until you find a stiff cable that is easy to sleeve. However always stick to 18awg, just look for different wire coatings. I would stay away from solid core as they are harder if not impossible to get a good crimp._
> 
> *7.* _If you are doing an OEM PSU you will have to train the parts that are seen and tuck away the other side. This is due to the OEM Pinouts. For example, use a zip tie to hide the twisting and double wires of a 24pin to the back of the case. Then train the exposed cables until the desired effect is achieved._
> 
> *8.* _Make yourself a set of extensions to add onto your OEM sleeved cables. This is the perfect way to get your cables to look professional and get the look you always wanted. This will include making custom length OEM cables and then using the extensions to get the perfect bend. Its more work for sure, but for those that desire nothing less than perfect - this is the only way to go._
> 
> I will be honest however, training a cable is an art. It will take tons of trial and error and practice until you get it down. Even then sometimes with OEM sleeving (sleeving the original cables) the PSU makers pinout will make it very hard and sometimes almost impossible to get a perfect "flow". But, with enough practice you can make it look pleasing.


----------



## Lutro0

Also the crimp section has been updated!
Quote:


> Which crimpers & pins do I buy? - What crimpers & pins to use and the reason why they are chosen.
> 
> To understand the following information you need to understand that not all crimpers are created equally. Molex has a chart in which it defines what is a good crimp and what is a bad crimp in its own standards - but from an experienced sleevers point of view there is only one good crimp, and that is the bite crimp.
> 
> Here is an example with different tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an quick example of some crimps using molex crimps using from top to bottom (SN-28B Crimper, MDPC Crimper, Hans Long Crimper)
> 
> _"You will see the the SN-28B Crimper even on the lowest setting still crushes the top insulation and bites too deep into the wire.
> 
> The MDPC Crimper Gently bites the wire while keeping the integrity of the wire.
> 
> The Hans Long Overlap Crimper simply overlaps the wings.
> _
> 
> So now that you see what the two available tools can do (the Han Long [HT-225D] tool is the same at both Performance PCs and FrozenCPU) lets talk a moment about pins before we continue.
> 
> Most pins that are sold are non-OEM pins, this means that a manufacturer other then Molex has made them and sold them to our online shops. The problem with this is that they decided it would be a good idea to make the wings that hold the wire smaller and then sell the longer winged pins as "double wire" pins.
> 
> Any experienced sleever will tell you that these pins "shorter wings" are garbage as they don't allow the proper bite into the wire to hold and make a strong crimp.
> 
> So what we can take away from this is that only the original Molex brand crimps should be bought even if you are just using the hans tool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are original Molex Crimps. You will note that they have longer wings on them. These are important as it allows the crimp to have extra hold and contact to the wire.
> 
> Most non-molex crimps have very short wings and are never recommended for your crimp jobs.
> 
> Here is the part number for those pins -a reel is a string of pins while a bag is pins not on a reel- :
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female Pins_ - 39-00-0038 (Reel)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female Pins_ - 39-00-0039 (Bag)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male Pins_ - 39-00-0040 (Reel) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male Pins_ - 39-00-0041 (Bag) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From top to bottom: (MDPC Crimper, Hans Long Crimper, SN-28B Crimper)
> 
> *And finally, here is a list of crimpers that should be considered for purchase:*
> 
> *Han Long [HT-225D]* _For a couple crimps or a small project (not recommended for a full set because of the way it crimps the "wings")_ : http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1277
> Note: these can be found at many different mod shops including FTW, FrozenCPU, Performance-pcs and others.
> 
> *MDPC Crimper* _The best for the best price (this will produce perfect crimps all the time that will hold also it comes with pins):_ http://de.mdpc-x.com/mdpc-crimping/mdpc-crimpzange.htm
> Note: This is the german site and it is sold on the international site but his shop times are limited
> 
> *Molex Brand Ratchet Crimper* _This may be the best tool as its made by Molex, but the price is way out of range for most people:_ http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?SKU=97M9440&CMP=AFC-GB100000001


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Most pins sold are non-OEM. This means that a manufacturer other then Molex or TE Connectivity has made, and sold them to our online shops. The problem with this is that they decided it would be a good idea to make the wings that hold the wire smaller and then sell the longer winged pins as "double wire" pins.
> 
> Any experienced sleever will tell you that these pins' "shorter wings" are garbage as they don't allow the proper bite into the wire to hold and make a strong crimp.
> 
> Only Molex or TE Connectivity crimp terminals/contacts should be bought, even if you are using the HT-225D.


TE makes pins for different insulation diameters, as you can see in this chart:


MolexNotesAMP/TENotes02-06-2101Male, Reel60618-1Male, AWG=24-18, Loose Piece02-06-2103Male, Loose Piece60620-1Male, AWG=20-14, Loose Piece02-08-1201Female, Reel60617-1Female, AWG=24-18, Loose Piece  60619-1Female, AWG=20-14, Loose Piece
4-Pin Peripheral Crimp Terminals (Example Only, DO NOT BUY)

So you can choose the length of the "wings".

You should change the FAQ to say "TE Connectivity or Molex crimps", because TE makes the 4-Pin peripheral housings. So their contacts (crimp terminals) should be equivalent to Molex's. See the red text in the quote for suggested changes.

I might try re-writing your whole FAQ to make it more clear and concise. Are you OK with that?

Quote:


> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female Pins_ - 39-00-0038 (Reel)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Female Pins_ - 39-00-0039 (Bag)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male Pins_ - 39-00-0040 (Reel) (These are the pins used for making an extension)
> _Molex ATX (Mini-Fit Jr. Series) Male Pins_ - 39-00-0041 (Bag) (These are the pins used for making an extension)


I made this into a chart:


Molex ATX Pins (Mini-Fit Jr. Series)  MaleFemaleReel39-00-004039-00-0038Loose Piece39-00-004139-00-0039NotesFor making an extension 

Feel free to make any changes before adding it to your FAQ.

You may add this to you FAQ right away, or wait until I'm done with my PC Crimping Part Numbers's charts. Alternatively, you can use them both.



Spoiler: Connector Types & Where to buy? (WITH PART NUMBERS)



Connector Types & Where to buy? - I get this question all the time. Lutro0, where do you buy all of your connectors and what connector do I need for this or that? Well, I hope to answer all of that! I will list the most common connector names and post a link where you can purchase them.

24pin - Molex Power Connectors
20+ 4 Pin Female ATX Power Connector
24-Pin Female ATX Power Connector (Part #: 50-36-1667)
24-Pin Male ATX Power Connector

8pin - Molex EPS Power Connectors
8-Pin Female ATX Power Connector (Part #: 50-36-1713)
8-Pin Male ATX Power Connector








4pin - Molex EPS Power Connectors
4-pin Male 12v Pentium 4 Power Connector
4-pin Female 12v Pentium 4 Power Connector (Part #: 50-30-4461)

6pin - Molex PCIE Power Connectors
6 pin Female VGA Power Connector (Part #: 45559-0002)
6 Pin Male VGA Power Connector
6+2Pin VGA Female Power Connector

8pin - Molex PCIE Power Connector
8PIN Male VGA Power Connector
6+2Pin VGA Female Power Connector
8PIN Female VGA Power Connector

Sata - Power Connectors
SATA EZ Crimp 90° Connector (Part #: 67582-0000)
SATA Molex Connector - Punch Down with Cap (Part #: 67926-0011)

4pin - Molex Power
4pin Muti-Use Female Molex Connector (TE Part #: 1-480426-9)
4pin Muti-Use Male Molex Connector (TE Part #: 1-480424-9)




The part numbers should be correct, but the "4pin - Molex Power" is not actually made by Molex. It's made by TE Connectivity. Source. Molex only makes Natural colored Female Housings, AFAIK.










The middle (MDPC) conductor crimp looks too aggressive, and the seam is fairly wide. The top (SN-28B) conductor crimp looks good. The HT-225D is has a terrible conductor crimp, and according to you, it also has a terrible insulation crimp.

MDPC Insulation Crimp + SN-28B Conductor Crimp = Ideal given those three tools.

Are you still planning a crimper roundup?


----------



## Lutro0

Thanks for the extra info, the pin and conector info will be added once its done. And I did know that some of the connectors are indeed not made by molex.

No, please do not try to re-write it as its written the way it is for a reason. I try to keep it as less technical as possible for new sleevers (which is the target audience).

Also, I disagree with you on the crimpers. But we have discussed this in length before so we dont need to discuss it again lol









I look forward to going through all the pins and connector info to include such important info..









Appreciate your help and the communities as always bud!


----------



## nawon72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> No, please do not try to re-write it as its written the way it is for a reason. I try to keep it as less technical as possible for new sleevers (which is the target audience).


I understand who the audience is. The technical jargon was for you to clearly understand what I am referring to, then change it to something everyone would understand. I am unfamiliar with the sleeving communities' commonly used terms, so I would let you decide what to use.

When I say "to make it more clear and concise", I mean to write it in Plain Language. Afterwards, you would rewrite it without all the technical jargon.

Quote:


> Also, I disagree with you on the crimpers. But we have discussed this in length before so we dont need to discuss it again lol


I'll agree to disagree about the crimpers


----------



## S3ason

Any updates on the FTW V2 sleeving? Looking for a cheaper replacement for MDPC sleeve as I keep running out!


----------



## stealforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> Any updates on the FTW V2 sleeving? Looking for a cheaper replacement for MDPC sleeve as I keep running out!


I found this guy on ebay selling sleeve, I bought from his website PCMZD.com cause the prices there are way better than on ebay. He seem to be a very cool guy. Im not sure I'm allowed to talk prices here but seems reasonable and shipping was reasonable. The sleeving looks good and dense, so far I like it. I hope I don't get reamed by fellow users as I am just trying to help. I know MDPC is the King here but like I said just trying to help.


----------



## stealforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealforce*
> 
> I went ahead and place a small order from PCMZD. Will see when I get it.
> Also got some from furletters


I got my sleeving order from PCMZD with my Molex pin remover tool, I will be doing a color scheme based on one of lutro0 example. BTW Lutro0 thanks for the awesome and informative video tutorials

I am looking to get this PSU because It seems to have favorable reviews and get recommend here also. Its also plenty enough for my needs I just need some reassurance from the community about the quality and reliability.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151087

Sorry for the back to back Post I did not realized my original post was in same thread as the post I reply to above me my apologies.................


----------



## cpachris

I posted this question in another thread...but this thread seems more relevant. When making 24 pin extensions...about how much shorter should the inner row of wires be than the outer row...to help it keep its curved shape? Just approximately....I know it will vary with the length of the extension.


----------



## S3ason

When I did my 12" 24 pin extension, the inner row was about 1/2" shorter. You should really just test it out yourself, because it took me 3 or 4 attempts to find the length that looked right. Good luck!


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> I posted this question in another thread...but this thread seems more relevant. When making 24 pin extensions...about how much shorter should the inner row of wires be than the outer row...to help it keep its curved shape? Just approximately....I know it will vary with the length of the extension.


Another thing to help you with this is (if you are making all your wires from scratch ) when you crimp your wires try to work with the natural curve of the wire. before you crimp just make note of the direction the pin goes in the housing connector. i know its more work but the results are to die for. It also help with training the extension to keep its curve. hope this was helpful.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> how much shorter should the inner row of wires be than the outer row... I know it will vary with the length of the extension.


It varies by the *length of the arc* of the curve. To keep it simple, if you presume a 90° curve then the length of that arc is _radius x pi / 2_. Since we know that MiniFit Jr connectors have a pitch of 4.2mm between rows then we find the inner row length by subtracting _4.2mm x pi / 2_, or *6.6mm shorter*. For other arc lengths, multiply by the ratio compared to 90°.


----------



## Furion92

Oh! Seems like I've answered cpachris in the wrong thread, my bad.
Maybe a mod can move my answer over to here...

At least I came to the same conclusion as WiSK









click!


----------



## huzzug

could anyone suggest what kind of material is this. I asked lutroo and he said that it looks like paracord, but on youtube, he said that paracord has some inner fillings (don't remember what exactly he said) which must be removed. This thing does'nt have any


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> At least I came to the same conclusion as WiSK


Ah I see with minor difference in assumption about the desired curve.
However, 90° : 180° = 6.6mm : 13.2mm so all is good


----------



## cpachris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> When I did my 12" 24 pin extension, the inner row was about 1/2" shorter. You should really just test it out yourself, because it took me 3 or 4 attempts to find the length that looked right. Good luck!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqualad*
> 
> Another thing to help you with this is (if you are making all your wires from scratch ) when you crimp your wires try to work with the natural curve of the wire. before you crimp just make note of the direction the pin goes in the housing connector. i know its more work but the results are to die for. It also help with training the extension to keep its curve. hope this was helpful.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It varies by the *length of the arc* of the curve. To keep it simple, if you presume a 90° curve then the length of that arc is _radius x pi / 2_. Since we know that MiniFit Jr connectors have a pitch of 4.2mm between rows then we find the inner row length by subtracting _4.2mm x pi / 2_, or *6.6mm shorter*. For other arc lengths, multiply by the ratio compared to 90°.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> Oh! Seems like I've answered cpachris in the wrong thread, my bad.
> Maybe a mod can move my answer over to here...
> At least I came to the same conclusion as WiSK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> click!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ah I see with minor difference in assumption about the desired curve.
> However, 90° : 180° = 6.6mm : 13.2mm so all is good


Appreciate all the knowledge transfer here. And yes, Furion, I read the reply in the other thread also. Sounds like everyone is in agreement. My extension will be 180 degrees, so just over 1/2 inch should be the difference in length for me. Thanks again guys!


----------



## S3ason

1/2" = 12.7mm. Pretty dang close!


----------



## pilotter

Easy Powersupplies to Sleeve? - Lutro0 what powersupply model is the easiest to sleeve?

did you already had a look at the AX860I from corsair?


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> Easy Powersupplies to Sleeve? - Lutro0 what powersupply model is the easiest to sleeve?
> did you already had a look at the AX860I from corsair?


Here is a small write up from Lutro0 in this same thread...............I think its also added to the first post of this thread. hope this was helpful.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/370#post_18561734


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> Easy Powersupplies to Sleeve? - Lutro0 what powersupply model is the easiest to sleeve?
> did you already had a look at the AX860I from corsair?


The AX Series from corsair are mostly rebranded Seasonics (great psu) However they have a double plug split for the 24pin and a good ammount of double wires, which would put this on the advanced/time consuming/more difficult list.


----------



## Lutro0

New Section added and the FAQ has been cleaned up for easy browsing!

Where To Buy Sleeving & Mod Supplies?
- Where do you buy all of your supplies & sleeving, and are they any good?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



I have gotten that question numerous times since I started sleeving. I have always planned to get ahold of all sleeving shops and have done so for a long time now. However, I for the most part have never done an actual video review on these items because for the most part there is not too much to go over.

But then came a time when these mod shops were starting to contact me to do a review on their products, and I now have about 10 different shops world wide with stuff in transit to my house. So thus, the Lutro0 Customs - Product Reviews Shop Series and Product Series was born.

I will continue to post my Review Videos in this section to keep all of the information organized. I will also provide a list of most sleeve shops and cable providers.

*www.Sleeve-Modding.com*

Sleeve-modding.com is a great shop for great products, I only had a few small grips about his products and the owner was more then happy to send me a large ammount of his products to give it a good look through. I also plan on sitting down and making an extension with his sleeving and I will be adding that pic to this section to how how it looks with real world application.






*Sleeve Product Providers List*

*Custom Pre-Sleeved Solutions:*

Lutro0 Customs -
https://www.facebook.com/Lutro0Customs
http://www.overclock.net/t/1159606/lutro0-customs-sleeved-extension-service

Psychosleeve -
http://psychosleeve.com/

Shakmods -
https://www.facebook.com/Shakmods2009
https://www.facebook.com/Shakmods.co.uk

Big City Sleeving -
https://www.facebook.com/groups/299207060157345/

Skitzba -
https://www.facebook.com/groups/442347012474482/

Frozenqpcmods
http://www.frozenqpcmods.com/sleeve.php

Maximum Mods
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Maximum-Modding/411307298919274

Kosovar Mods
https://www.facebook.com/KosovarMods
http://www.sweclockers.com/profil/kosovar

*Factory Made Pre-Sleeved Solutions:*

BitPhenix -
http://www.bitfenix.com/global/en/products/premium-modding/alchemy-cables/

NZXT -
http://www.nzxt.com/new/product.php?series=13

Corsair -
http://www.corsair.com/en/power-supply-units/psu-accessories.html

Moddiy.com -
http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Cable-Sleeving/?sort=bestselling

Performance-PCs
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php

*Plastic Type Sleeving:*

MDPC -
http://en.mdpc-x.com/

SleeveModding -
http://www.sleeve-modding.com/

Dazmode -
http://www.dazmode.com/

Performance-PCs -
http://www.performance-pcs.com

Frozen-CPU -
http://www.frozencpu.com/

Xoxide -
http://www.xoxide.com/

Furryletters (Techflex Cleancut)-
http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS

Big City Sleeving -
https://www.facebook.com/groups/299207060157345/

FTW Sleeving -
http://ftwpc.com/

Kobra HD -
http://www.performance-pcs.com
http://www.Frozencpu.com

Bitspower -
http://www.performance-pcs.com

*Paracord Type Sleeving:*

http://www.Amazon.com
http://www.ftwpc.com/cables-and-sleeving/paracord-sleeving.html
http://www.Countycomm.com
http://www.ebay.com
http://www.paracordplanet.com/
http://www.extac.com.au/category_s/196.htm
http://www.bucklerunner.com/100-Hanks-550-Paracord_c4.htm
http://www.vtarmynavy.com/parachute_cord.htm
http://www.supplycaptain.com/
http://www.paracord.com/
https://www.facebook.com/Robbyssales?fref=ts --- 10% discount modgroup10 code


----------



## pilotter

thanks Lutro, still looking for a good power supply for my ( Slow ) build.... Liked the new AX860 without the I, so I might have to try. First waiting for me package from Nils MDPC, and I will start sleaving the front cables of my switch 810 gun metal, and the the corsair fans. Already watched the guide How to sleeve fans. Corsair fans might be tricky....small gap for the cable on the fan.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> thanks Lutro, still looking for a good power supply for my ( Slow ) build.... Liked the new AX860 without the I, so I might have to try. First waiting for me package from Nils MDPC, and I will start sleaving the front cables of my switch 810 gun metal, and the the corsair fans. Already watched the guide How to sleeve fans. Corsair fans might be tricky....small gap for the cable on the fan.


Check out the FAQ for the section on Easy PSUs to Sleeve.


----------



## pilotter

Found on youtube the new corsair ax series 760/860 and 1200 are the same, so maybe these are easier than the " old " ones

Verstuurd van mijn LG-P990 met Tapatalk


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilotter*
> 
> Found on youtube the new corsair ax series 760/860 and 1200 are the same, so maybe these are easier than the " old " ones
> Verstuurd van mijn LG-P990 met Tapatalk


Just looked myself, if the pinout is the same as the 1200i then it should be easier. It is a double plug for the 24pin but its a total of 24pins so it should be fine.


----------



## S3ason

I saw your video on sleeve-modding.com and was wondering if you thought the sleeve was a suitable replacement for MDPC. I'm not expecting 100% mdpc quality, but is it close?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S3ason*
> 
> I saw your video on sleeve-modding.com and was wondering if you thought the sleeve was a suitable replacement for MDPC. I'm not expecting 100% mdpc quality, but is it close?


Sure is, its basically the same weave in a smaller size and different colors.









Where did he end up posting it lol


----------



## berlington456

Hi all,

Can someone please let me know where i can buy 18 awg wire best suited for the MDPC crimper and if possible UK outlets but will by from abroad if needs must?









My cimper is sitting in my tool box itching to be used but don't want to buy the wrong wire and damage the crimper:thumbsdow


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *berlington456*
> 
> Can someone please let me know where i can buy 18 awg wire best suited for the MDPC crimper and if possible UK outlets


http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/608637/LiY-switch-and-control-wire-1-x-75-mm-Black-Coil-10-m-Conrad

Flexible PVC, stranded, cross-section 0.75mm2, external diameter 2mm, up to 70C, handy 10 meter spool for under 2 quid. Ideal for sleeving.


----------



## berlington456

Thanks WiSK!!


----------



## berlington456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> http://www.conrad-uk.com/ce/en/product/608637/LiY-switch-and-control-wire-1-x-75-mm-Black-Coil-10-m-Conrad
> Flexible PVC, stranded, cross-section 0.75mm2, external diameter 2mm, up to 70C, handy 10 meter spool for under 2 quid. Ideal for sleeving.


Hi WiSK,

Sorry, not meant to be a stupid question, but would this wire be fine for making a 24 pin and an 8 pin EPS extenion cables?

Thanks for you time.

Regards,

Bernard.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *berlington456*
> 
> Hi WiSK,
> Sorry, not meant to be a stupid question, but would this wire be fine for making a 24 pin and an 8 pin EPS extenion cables?
> Thanks for you time.
> Regards,
> Bernard.


Wisks wires is good for heatshrinkless style for any cable, however if you are choosing to use heatshrink you may want to look at wire with a smaller OD.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Wisks wires is good for heatshrinkless style for any cable, however if you are choosing to use heatshrink you may want to look at wire with a smaller OD.


I bow to your superior experience of course, but I always thought 2.0mm was on the smaller side. I have been using a spool of nice chunky 2.3mm OD myself lately


----------



## berlington456

Wisks wires is good for heatshrinkless style for any cable, however if you are choosing to use heatshrink you may want to look at wire with a smaller OD.[/quote]

Thanks Lutro0!

I am honored to have and my question answered by the sleeve genius


----------



## berlington456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I bow to your superior experience of course, but I always thought 2.0mm was on the smaller side. I have been using a spool of nice chunky 2.3mm OD myself lately


Tanks again Wisk!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I bow to your superior experience of course, but I always thought 2.0mm was on the smaller side. I have been using a spool of nice chunky 2.3mm OD myself lately


I prefer the chunky style myself, but it can be hard for some people to use. There is much smaller wire that can be used, and for someone to use heatshrink it makes it a breeze. Its all about having the right materials, they can make it a chore or make it enjoyable to get good results.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *berlington456*
> 
> Wisks wires is good for heatshrinkless style for any cable, however if you are choosing to use heatshrink you may want to look at wire with a smaller OD.


Thanks Lutro0!
I am honored to have and my question answered by the sleeve genius[/quote]

Psh, I am no genius, ask my wife.


----------



## berlington456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I prefer the chunky style myself, but it can be hard for some people to use. There is much smaller wire that can be used, and for someone to use heatshrink it makes it a breeze. Its all about having the right materials, they can make it a chore or make it enjoyable to get good results.
> Thanks Lutro0!
> I am honored to have and my question answered by the sleeve genius


Psh, I am no genius, ask my wife.







[/quote][

Hi Lutro0,

Forgot to say i'm going with heatshrinkless for now. I was more concerned about using the correct wire with the MDPC crimper that i have bought.
So now it is just a case of waiting for wire to arrive. Will look into using the heatshrink method after Christmas.

Thanks again for your imput:thumb:

Cheers,

Bernard.


----------



## berlington456

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *berlington456*
> 
> Hi Lutro0,
> Forgot to say i'm going with heatshrinkless for now. I was more concerned about using the correct wire with the MDPC crimper that i have bought.
> So now it is just a case of waiting for wire to arrive. Will look into using the heatshrink method after Christmas.
> Thanks again for your imput:thumb:
> Cheers,Bernard.


Sorry Lutro0 did not mean to include the bit about: Psh, I am no genius, ask my wife. [/quote][

Once again sorry!!









Regards,

Bernard.


----------



## mandrix

Reading Lutro0's post on pins reminds me....
I had some email exchange with one of the popular online vendors recently about the length of the wings on their non-molex minifit jr pins. They seemed either incredulous or irate that I would even ask. I simply told them that anyone that does any amount of sleeving would probably only use the short winged pins in a pinch, and that the real Molex pins were preferred.

I thought I was doing them, and whoever buys from them a favor by pointing it out, but considering the response I will not bother in the future.
I made it clear I buy a lot of stuff from them and wasn't trying to be a PITA but evidently that message did not come through.

My advice is that if it doesn't say Molex (_talking about minifit jr ATX pins only_) then don't buy it unless you've used it and like it. My thinking was if a first time sleever used them and had crappy results it might be enough to discourage them.


----------



## Lutro0

Section updated with a new Sub-Reddit.

Sleeving Groups?
- Is there any sites dedicated to sleeving?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



There is many that can be mentioned, however the one of the bests sites that are around are of course the one you are on right now. http://www.overclock.net/f/17973/cables-and-sleeving

However there has been a combination of international sleevers on Facebook that I suggest you poke your head into and gather information and meet other sleevers. This is handy mainly for those outside the USA.

Please check it out here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ICSCommunity/

Also I am happy to announce that a Sub-Reddit has been made for specifically people who sleeve. Please check out the new channel here: http://www.reddit.com/r/PCSleeving/


----------



## Lutro0

Added a section everyone has been waiting for!
Quote:


> How To Sleeve Sata Pass-Through or Crimp Style Power Connectors?
> - What is the best way to sleeve a molex sata power connector?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> There is tons of methods for what you are asking. The main reason I have not made a video for it is that reason alone. It is very difficult to get a clean look, and it can be very frustrating because it takes many tries to get it just right. Also there is allot of misinformation out there as well as bad looking jobs that dont explain what they did to get that look.
> 
> Please remember to practice on a spare one many times before you give this a try as it is nothing less than an art form to get it right.
> 
> Here are the following ways to sleeve a pass-through molex sata power connector.
> 
> _-please note that none of the following pictures are my own or of my own work, they are used simply for reference and the credit is fully given to those that have made the photos and took the time to make them-_
> 
> *1. The small section of sleeving in-between method without heatshrink:*
> This method requires the absolute correct measurement of the sleeve in between the connectors. A common misconception is that you need heatshrink to hold onto it. The way I get around this is to make the sleeve go from one connector to the other with no gaps, but put a small amount of super glue underneath the sleeve to hold it into place - make sure that they are snug and under the little lip of the pass through connector. I do not have an example of this method on hand as the one I did was for a project for NVIDIA and I did not take any photos, but if you look at the following example it looks very similar.
> 
> *A. Modified non-heatshrink:*
> This method will produce the same effect as method one, however you sleeve the full cable first and then cut away a small amount of sleeve to allow the wire to be pushed into the pass through molex terminal. This method will produce amazing results but its is VERY DIFFICULT to master. You will most likely waste tons of sleeve and wires before you get a perfect result. The following picture is one of the best executions of this method I have ever seen!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *2. The small section of sleeving in-between method with heatshrink:*
> This method requires the absolute correct measurement of the sleeve and the heatshrink in between the connectors. A common misconception is that you need to make the sleeve shorter then the section to have the heatshrink hold onto it. But this only produces a bump that looks terrible. The way I get around this is to make the sleeve go from one connector to the other with no gaps, but put a small amount of super glue underneath the sleeve to hold it into place and then cut smaller sections of heatshrink to put over the ends to close up the end sections of the sleeve - make sure that they are snug and under the little lip of the pass through connector. Here is an example of this method, and one of the best executions of this method to a T.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also here is an example of the method without bringing the sleeve right up to the connector, this is what I see most of the time and you can see how it throws off the look of the cable by having a little bump in between them:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *3. Using colored wire method:*
> This is simple enough in the way that you use the first method to bring the sleeve up to the first connector but then leave the rest of the connectors with bare wire, but you use colored wire that matches your sleeve to leave a matching look. Here is an example of this method that is sold @ Mod-DIY:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *4. Heatshrink the whole thing method:*
> This is also simple as you follow method one up to the first connector and then use colored heatshrink to give the matched look on the sections in-between your other connectors. Here is an example of this method, but remember that you can use colored heatshrink as well to make it match better:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *5. Sleeve and heatshrink the whole bundle method:*
> As the name of the method states, you sleeve the whole bundle and shrink it in-between the connectors. I would recommend using a bit of super glue to hold it into place a bit better as well as holding the wires flat so they don't look like a round tube, this way you can get it to lay like a flat cable and give it a better look. Here is an example of such a method without laying the cables flat:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *6. Use single crimp style connectors:*
> This is my favorite method as its the cleanest and best looking out of all of them, however it will depend on how many aux connectors your PSU has and how many sata powered devices you have.
> 
> But something to think about is that you can always make an 4pin Molex to crimped sata power connector if you need more sata connectors then your have aux connectors.
> 
> Simply put you use the crimp style sata power connectors and use one aux connector on your PSU per sata device, this way you are not compromising having to use the methods above and it provides the cleanest look of all. The downfall is having more sleeved cables to deal with and finding the room for them. Again its up to how many sata devices you have to use. Here is an example of what I mean, and you can see right away why this is my favorite as its the cleanest possible method:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *A. Alternate daisy chain method both with heatshrink and without:*
> This method is if you have to have an extra device you can have the sleeved cables daisy chain off of one of the sata crimp connectors, what this would involve is having to crimp two wires to one crimp and be careful to insert it into one of the crimp sata connectors, this is very difficult to do and I would suggest a small diameter sleeve and a small diameter wires such as the UL1007 wire from amazon of other supplier. http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1355106964&sr=8-5&keywords=black+18awg
> 
> What makes that wire special is that it has a super small outer diameter and will give you the extra room you need to make a double wire into a single pin happen. But even then this takes much practice and patience to get a clean look. Here is a example of this method, while its not the cleanest example if done right with or without heatshrink it can be a saver if you don't have enough aux connectors on your PSU or have enough 4pin Molex power connectors to use - again this method does not bring the sleeve all the way up to the connector which is the cleanest method. Remember this can be done without heatshrink as well but the following photo does provide a good idea of what it looks like:


----------



## cpachris

My iteration......guess it would be #3 under your bullet points.


----------



## mandrix

Thanks, Lutro0, the 18awg I've been using for SATA punch down connectors has been giving me fits. I ordered some of the .0403 OD wire and expect it will go much more smoothly in the future.


----------



## Atmosfear86

Hi Guys,

Is this sleeving any good?

http://www.moddiy.com/products/Deluxe-High-Density-Weave-Black-Cable-Sleeve-%288mm%29.html#.UMgwYOR18VA

I was looking at this as opposed to Paracord because then i can sleeve the SATA Cables and USB3 Front Panel Cable as-well.

Thanks in advance


----------



## nezff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpachris*
> 
> My iteration......guess it would be #3 under your bullet points.


awesome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Atmosfear86*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> Is this sleeving any good?
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Deluxe-High-Density-Weave-Black-Cable-Sleeve-%288mm%29.html#.UMgwYOR18VA
> I was looking at this as opposed to Paracord because then i can sleeve the SATA Cables and USB3 Front Panel Cable as-well.
> Thanks in advance


I like it


----------



## Atmosfear86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nezff*
> 
> awesome!
> I like it


Thanks Mate









I've got the Bitfenix Extensions and it just doesn't do it justice, plus i want to sleeve everything connected to the motherboard.


----------



## siggie30

I am not sure if this was asked previously, but I finished sleeving the PP05 kit (short kit for silverstone PSU's). I used parachord, and while they look good in a line, I am finding it difficult to get the shape to hold after bending them through the case. I started stitching them, but did not like the way it was going, then I considered the wire clips, but I really do not like them either. Also, the "bunching" is not attractive to me. All in all, I am considering mating them with velcro on the inside of the two groups to hold the pattern. What do you think?


----------



## socketus

Novel idea - try it and show us. That would be cool, if you can pull it off - pun intended


----------



## aqualad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> Novel idea - try it and show us. That would be cool, *if you can pull it off* - pun intended


Sorry but that was hilarious................


----------



## Born For TDM

so im learning how to sleeve on a spare psu atm, but when i put the para cord on the wire, the wire with sleeve doesnt fit back into the 24 pin connector.... Am i doing something wrong? i tried both with HS and without HS


----------



## stealforce

You most likely are letting the melted sleeve lump up or swell too big (not sure if that makes sense) or you bring the sleeve too far up on the pin.


----------



## siggie30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Born For TDM*
> 
> so im learning how to sleeve on a spare psu atm, but when i put the para cord on the wire, the wire with sleeve doesnt fit back into the 24 pin connector.... Am i doing something wrong? i tried both with HS and without HS


Youtube video by Lutro (the OP)


----------



## adi518

I wanted to order some stuff from sleeve-modding.com but this guy is totally insane with the shipping. He charges 30$ (for a single bag of shrinks) DHL premium shipping and drop-ships from Hong Kong. If that's not face-palm, I don't know what is. He threw me a line on email that I get "free shipping" on orders of 300$. Well, that's not gonna happen. He's also not willing to offer smaller packs of shrinks. I don't have a use for 100 pieces of pre-cut Sata shrink. 50x is like overkill already, but tbh, it's not the point. The shipping is just exaggerated. What if I want to buy stuff for less than 20$?


----------



## Lutro0

Sadly the shipping is insane, I only did a review of the products. The rest I dont really have any controll over to get changed. I can however let him know that he needs to fix it.


----------



## adi518

Yeh, I know. You did a good job on the review, he just needs to sort out the shipping.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I wanted to order some stuff from sleeve-modding.com but this guy is totally insane .........


Make insane somebody speaks for itself about your good education .


----------



## nezff

Anyone have any mdpc they would like to get rid of. I was trying to get 12-15 feet if each color.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> Make insane somebody speaks for itself about your good education .


Nם clue what you tried to say there but it looks like you're the one who needs to work on his education, more precisely his English.


----------



## em ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> I wanted to order some stuff from sleeve-modding.com but this guy is totally insane..... He's also not willing to offer smaller packs of shrinks. I don't have a use for 100 pieces of pre-cut Sata shrink. 50x is like overkill already, ....


Off topic-but it amuse me !
Mr Ebenezer Scrooge is overkilled in Christmas







by 100 pieces Precut Heatshrink = $1,95, he need only 50 pieces by $0,975 bucks.......


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *em ht*
> 
> 100 pieces Precut Heatshrink = $*31*,95, he need only 50 pieces by $*30*,975 bucks


You forgot to add shipping.


----------



## adi518

That guy is weird, just leave it.


----------



## skels130

I actually just placed an order with sleeve-modding. I sent him an email regarding the shipping, and he said he is working on a solution hopefully by the end of January. He also took 15% off my order (that was already placed) and threw in some free samples of each color, and some extra 'gifts' as he put it. He reiterated several times that he isn't taking anything from the shipping charges, and it's purely DHL. Based upon Lutro0's review, I'd say that it's worth keeping an eye on, especially when he's willing to jump through hoops to take care of customers. The guy seriously wants us to be happy. (And that's worth a lot in my opinion.) I'm waiting for the package now, and I'm hoping it lives up to the review.

PS He also was very honest about the 6mm HS not being quite up to par, and said he was working on it, as well as offered to mail me a sample.

EDIT: Also, now he is advertising 15% off any order over $80s for international orders.


----------



## adi518

He's a good guy only it's wrong to use DHL, especially if you ship from China, capital of cheap shipping methods, am I right?


----------



## TheYonderGod

Is paracord 550 wide enough to sleeve my headphone and microphone cable together? The connector on my headphones is about 1cm wide. If not, is there any other cheap sleeving that is big enough?


----------



## S3ason

I ship all day for a home buisness, I also buy tons of crap from china. A 40 lb box from china costs me $10 to have it here in 5 days. I don't know how china post can make any money or even stay afloat with the rates they charge. Either way, this guy shouldn't be using dhl period. The only reason I can thInk of is that dhl has better online services / tracking / and also does free pickups.


----------



## Lutro0

New section added to the FAQ. Please give this a look as this is "what I believe" to be the future of sleeving.

Where To Find Custom Sleeving Providers / Sleeving Suppliers All In One Place?
- Is there any places dedicated to hooking up customers with providers?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



For a long time the answer to this has been a resounding NO!

For the most part the paid sleeving community and sleeving suppliers have been in a cut-thought battle for money which has been fueled by greed and the almighty dollar. This has been something I have been fighting ever since I got into this hobby as I made it a point to share most is not all of my "secrets" with everyone.

This battle for me intensifies as Lutro0 Customs enters the field of sales itself more then it ever has been. So I decided to do something that is unheard of in the business world.

I decided to bring all of the custom sleeving service providers and all of the sleeving supply distributors together in one place to offer their services as people ask for them, in an organized and official manner.

This means everyone who is looking to offer paid services or paid sleeving goods into one place, have them be subject to verification to ease the customer and to have them all work together and put the customer first, which is how this hobby and providers should have started out.

Instead of tons of shoddy suppliers and sub-par sleeving service providers doing everything they can to put themselves first to make a buck we have come together to make the customer first and give them the choice of sleeving supply vendor and custom sleeving provider.

Those that have chosen to ask to be verified and become a part of this new Facebook Group have taken the step to show that they care more about the customer then they do personal profit.

In anyones eyes this should be seen as a step in the right direction and totally against the tide of conventional business. Its time to put the customer first and to promise a fantastic product as well as a superb custom job that is worth every penny of the person seeking these solutions.

Please check out the following Facebook Group and read what it is all about.

Please check it out here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/WorldwidePCSleevingServicesGroup/

This is for people seeking services worldwide and shops/buisnesses that seek to put the customer first.

The group idea came from and was created by me. I have put 2 others that I trust very much to admin and approve all suppliers and sleevers to put the customers mind at ease that they are purchasing from verified producers. I have also pooled in my own jobs for those that want the option is seeking someone closer.

So if you are looking for sleeving supplies, or a custom sleever for your project or mod I suggest you give the group a read, learn how to post a request and get a quote from the verified suppliers in the group. More suppliers are being added all the time and the group is relatively new so be patient and someone will get with you to set you up with the proper supplier/sleever or the shop/company itself will reply to your detailed request.

If you are interested in being added to it just follow the rules and you will be verified upon inspection.

I believe this to be the future market place for sleeving, give it a look and be a part of the revolution.


----------



## WiSK

_Edit: I take that back_


----------



## jonny1hp

Hey guys-
I actually have been reading through here looking for advice about sleeving etc, got EVERYTHING I needed (I actually joined to thank Lutro!, THANK YOU!) and to say how happy I am with sleeve-modding.com).

In response to adi518, I agree, the shipping seemed odd. But email him to make it right, he will!

I placed the order on Dec 29th and then emailed him about "discounts in December" and "discounts on order's above $xxx for shipping" in the fine print . Approx 19 min later he emails back and says: " HI Jon, No worry about the discount (15%) ! You will have it ! but the sending will be unfortunate next year due to the holiday. + samples of all our color 6 mm sleve. Hope to enjoy !" He then sent me some links to his shop and said for me to get $15 worth of stuff, Santa is here!

I received a properly reduced bill and recived it in about 4 days after the holiday, awesome.

Quality is exactly like what you would read here, the bulk 6mm shrink tube is less than stellar; and Emil told me himself it was, and said he's working on it, but eveything else is awesome and I'm kinda picky.

I dunno, he has my business, the quality is 9.5/10, the service is 10/10 and the shipping was resonable after Emil reduced it. He has set the bar pretty damn high.

Sorry for the novel... Jon


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Is it possible to sleeve MDPC without using heatshrink?


----------



## carmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gardnerphotos*
> 
> Is it possible to sleeve MDPC without using heatshrink?


Yes, Lutro) shows how to do it in this post, 9th video.


----------



## Demoscraft

Is there any New Zealand Specific group of sleevers? Or is there anyone who know or is a Kiwi and sleeves PSU cables?

Thanks!








Demos.


----------



## AlderonnX

this link : http://ftwpc.com/ no longer works? i guess they closed the store?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlderonnX*
> 
> this link : http://ftwpc.com/ no longer works? i guess they closed the store?


I believe their are. They has lots of order troubles with the fan group buy and never seemed to recover.


----------



## CrazyCorky

I was wondering if there is like a standard length for PSU cables since I have all of mine zip tied up for a clean case and I really don't want to cut them out to measure.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> I was wondering if there is like a standard length for PSU cables since I have all of mine zip tied up for a clean case and I really don't want to cut them out to measure.


Not really. Its all up to the PSU Maker and what wattage the psu is. Most high end psu have longer cables becayse they expect you to use a large case, while smaller ones will have slighty less length for smaller cases.

The best bet is to look up the psu on the makers page and look at the specs for the cable lengths, most provide it and if not you should be able to find a review that will tell you what they are or you can email the maker for the info.


----------



## CrazyCorky

Do they make custom Sata cables that aren't the extremely hard to bend style?


----------



## CrazyCorky

Do they make custom Sata cables that aren't the extremely hard to bend style?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> Do they make custom Sata cables that aren't the extremely hard to bend style?


What do you mean? They have a few versions that are extremely skinny like tape thin is thats what you are thinking?

If you are trying to bend at an angle perhaps you need a 90 degree sata cable?


----------



## CrazyCorky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> What do you mean? They have a few versions that are extremely skinny like tape thin is thats what you are thinking?
> 
> If you are trying to bend at an angle perhaps you need a 90 degree sata cable?


The tape thin ones are the ones I'm looking for.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCorky*
> 
> The tape thin ones are the ones I'm looking for.


I dont know the exact link I thought ok gear made them. Hopefully someone comes by that has the link.


----------



## Big Elf

The *Akasa Super Slim* are very thin.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The *Akasa Super Slim* are very thin.


Easy to sleeve, and you can cut them to size and reattach the connector if you have a careful hand. If you remove one of the connectors you can actually use regular MDPC sleeve (non SATA) to sleeve them. Otherwise slightly larger sleeve will slide over the connectors.


----------



## STUNT1990

I want to sleeve my Corsair AX1200i cables but I don´t want to void the warranty.
Also I´ll like to do the shrinkless method, so I´ll have to cut our the conectors and crip new ones in.
I have another issue; I want white sleeving and the cables are black so I´ll have to cover them with white insulation tape.

Problems "solved", make new cables and forget about the original ones.
This way I won´t void the warranty, I´ll save up time on cutting/crimping cables and I can buy white cables and avoid the insulation tape.
But.. anyway I´m stuck, does anybody have the pin out of the AX1200i cables? and.. are all the cables the same?

I need the pin out for the 24 pin, the 6+2 gpu and the 4+4 eps cables, as they are sleeved and I can´t see where each of them goes (and I don´t have a voltimeter)

Do you know any european shop where I can buy the plastic conections in black?
I have seen them on aquatuning but it seems like they are translucent black.

Sorry for so much questions, and thank you for any help you can provide me.


----------



## WiSK

If you make new cables and crimp them yourself, then you should just buy white wire (0,75mm2 core with 2-2,2mm diameter insulation) instead of taping black wire. For example http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/604611/FLY-automotive-cable-White-Sold-per-metre-Leoni

Those mod/smart connectors from Aquatuning are not the best, but work okay and have a good solid black colour, not translucent. http://www.aquatuning.es/product_info.php/language/es/info/p8480_mod-smart-ATX-Power-Connector-24Pin-plug---black.html

Can't help you with AX1200i pinout, I'm afraid.


----------



## STUNT1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you make new cables and crimp them yourself, then you should just buy white wire (0,75mm2 core with 2-2,2mm diameter insulation) instead of taping black wire. For example http://www.conrad.com/ce/en/product/604611/FLY-automotive-cable-White-Sold-per-metre-Leoni
> 
> Those mod/smart connectors from Aquatuning are not the best, but work okay and have a good solid black colour, not translucent. http://www.aquatuning.es/product_info.php/language/es/info/p8480_mod-smart-ATX-Power-Connector-24Pin-plug---black.html
> 
> Can't help you with AX1200i pinout, I'm afraid.


Great, the cable spects is what I needed.
Of course I´ll be using white cable instead of covering with white tape the black cables









No problem with the pin out if all the cables are the same diameter, I´ll ask some friend for a voltimeter and try to find out myself (If I get it right I´ll be posting the pin out here)

Any idea of where can I find the 10 (2x5) and 14 (2x7) pin conectors for the PSU?
And a better cuality brand for the conectors? (don´t care if they are more expensive)


----------



## WiSK

The only one I know who sells those brand-specific modular connectors is Eric @ moddiy.com. He's in Hong Kong and the shipping is a fair bit, but the products are cheap.

http://www.moddiy.com/products/Corsair-PSU-Professional-AX-Series-Modular-Connector-%2814%252dPin%29.html

Maybe someone else knows another source for Europe.


----------



## Drzewo

Hi! I've got some simple sleeving questions:
-What kind of sleeving do You use? 4mm or 3mm?
-What do You think about using 16AWG cables for sleeving?
-Have You ever used Phobya/Sunbeamtech extractors? Now I have Phobya extractor, and it's soft, I'm worried I'll break it. Is it worth to buy original extractor? Are pins going out more easily?
-When I'm, doing heatshrinkless method with the cheapest hestshrink (Lutro0 guide) and for example white sleeve, won't it leave some black traces (I hope You know what i mean) on the sleeving?
Thanks!


----------



## STUNT1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The only one I know who sells those brand-specific modular connectors is Eric @ moddiy.com. He's in Hong Kong and the shipping is a fair bit, but the products are cheap.
> 
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Corsair-PSU-Professional-AX-Series-Modular-Connector-%2814%252dPin%29.html
> 
> Maybe someone else knows another source for Europe.


Thank you very much







just ordered there all the conectors I couldn´t find on MDPC-X
60$ shipping included to Spain for all the 16 AX1200i psu conectors, 2x 4+4 eps, 6x 6+2 GPU and 20+4 mobo conectors
Not as cheap as I thought it will be, but anyway happy to found everything in the same site and pay the shipping only once


----------



## Gardnerphotos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drzewo*
> 
> Hi! I've got some simple sleeving questions:
> -What kind of sleeving do You use? 4mm or 3mm?
> -What do You think about using 16AWG cables for sleeving?
> -Have You ever used Phobya/Sunbeamtech extractors? Now I have Phobya extractor, and it's soft, I'm worried I'll break it. Is it worth to buy original extractor? Are pins going out more easily?
> -When I'm, doing heatshrinkless method with the cheapest hestshrink (Lutro0 guide) and for example white sleeve, won't it leave some black traces (I hope You know what i mean) on the sleeving?
> Thanks!


Use 550lb paracord or MDPC small not sure on exact diameters. (I think 4mm) I used the Phobya ones for sleeving my power supply and when I was on the last cable one of the pins on the ATX pin remover snapped off so I wouldn't recommend it, the Molex brand is supposed to be the best.

I would recommend 18AWG as 16AWG is supposedly a bit too big and can be a pain to fit through sleeve.

What sleeve are you using? If you are using paracord then you don't need the heatshrink you can just roll it with your fingers, if this doesn't work for you then I am afraid the only solution is to get some white heatshrink instead.

Hope this helps!


----------



## STUNT1990

A friend let me a voltmeter and I have the pinouts for the AX1200I cables.
I realized some of them (5 in the 24 pin cable) are thiner than the others.

So "0,75mm2 core with 2-2,2mm diameter insulation" for the thick ones but.. what kind of cable do I need for the thin ones?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drzewo*
> 
> Hi! I've got some simple sleeving questions:
> -What kind of sleeving do You use? 4mm or 3mm?
> -What do You think about using 16AWG cables for sleeving?
> -Have You ever used Phobya/Sunbeamtech extractors? Now I have Phobya extractor, and it's soft, I'm worried I'll break it. Is it worth to buy original extractor? Are pins going out more easily?
> -When I'm, doing heatshrinkless method with the cheapest hestshrink (Lutro0 guide) and for example white sleeve, won't it leave some black traces (I hope You know what i mean) on the sleeving?
> Thanks!


*-What kind of sleeving do You use? 4mm or 3mm?*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1262900/frequently-asked-sleeving-questions/0_20
Paracord or MDPC tends to be the options of choice right now. Paracord is cheap while MDPC costs a little more, read that faq lots of info to help you out.

*-What do You think about using 16AWG cables for sleeving?*
Regular 16awg sleeving almost always has a diam of over .25 or in otherwords once you add the sleeve its hard to fit into the connector.
I have produced a custom 16awg cable just for heatshrinkstyle (link in sig) if you want to check it out.
But one of the bigger problems with 16awg is that you need to take your time as there is alot more strands then 18awg.

*-Have You ever used Phobya/Sunbeamtech extractors? Now I have Phobya extractor, and it's soft, I'm worried I'll break it. Is it worth to buy original extractor? Are pins going out more easily?*
Front hours of testing and honestly buying every single tool out there stick to the original molex extractor, it will last you while making the job easier.

*-When I'm, doing heatshrinkless method with the cheapest hestshrink (Lutro0 guide) and for example white sleeve, won't it leave some black traces (I hope You know what i mean) on the sleeving?*
Depends on the heatshrink you use, I sell the same stuff I use in my shop now, but it would depend on the heatshrinks heat tolerance and how it reacts to it and how its dyed. However, this should not matter because you are just shrinking the part that goes into the pin so you wouldnt see it anyhow.

Also a quick tip if you use paracord to sleeve with there is no need for heatshrink. Check out the video I made on it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *STUNT1990*
> 
> A friend let me a voltmeter and I have the pinouts for the AX1200I cables.
> I realized some of them (5 in the 24 pin cable) are thiner than the others.
> 
> So "0,75mm2 core with 2-2,2mm diameter insulation" for the thick ones but.. what kind of cable do I need for the thin ones?


You can use 18awg for all of it. Ignore the fact that some are smaller.


----------



## MkO611

Anyone know if you can actually buy the cable for SATA power?
I tried taking it apart and those 2 metal things that hold them in ripped one of the cables









I'm talking about the SATA power cable you get your your PSU btw


----------



## ChaoticKinesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkO611*
> 
> Anyone know if you can actually buy the cable for SATA power?
> I tried taking it apart and those 2 metal things that hold them in ripped one of the cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm talking about the SATA power cable you get your your PSU btw


You can use a molex to SATA adapter like the one found here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200061


----------



## MkO611

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaoticKinesis*
> 
> You can use a molex to SATA adapter like the one found here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812200061


Yea but i still would not be able to use the SATA cable which i want to.
I found on that moddiy site that they sell a whole cable, might just buy that...


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MkO611*
> 
> Anyone know if you can actually buy the cable for SATA power?
> I tried taking it apart and those 2 metal things that hold them in ripped one of the cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm talking about the SATA power cable you get your your PSU btw


There's two types of sata power connector: push-in and crimped. Usually on PSUs they give you a cable with 3 push-in connectors. You can buy these connectors separately, e.g. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1220

However, if you want a replacement for the whole cable since its broken, better to contact Seasonic and say your dog ate the sata cables and you need a couple extra ones.


----------



## CrazyCorky

What's the average length of sleeving and heat shrink you guys are using to sleeve your cables?


----------



## WiSK

161-212mm and 15mm


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 161-212mm and 15mm


I prefer 25mm. lol.

I think in the last 6 months I've been through about 30-40 feet of shrink, and that's just the 1/4" black.
BTW a good place to order lots of 1/4 or 1/8 black 3:1 shrink for general stuff or "shrinkless" sleeving is Allied Electronics. It comes in straight 4 foot sections and is super cheap.
First learned of it last year in one of Lutro0's posts or tutorials here at OCN.
It's easier to stretch it a little if needed to fit over a connector without ripping compared to the ultra thin shrink.
Sadly it only comes in black in those sizes. But if you are doing shrinkless it makes no difference what color it is anyway.

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70133170


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I think in the last 6 months I've been through about 30-40 feet of shrink, and that's just the 1/4" black.


Know what you mean, I'm addicted to MDPC pre-cut black myself, almost all of it used for melting and so it ends up in the trash


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Know what you mean, I'm addicted to MDPC pre-cut black myself, almost all of it used for melting and so it ends up in the trash


Wisk, check out my shop, MDPC heatshrink is so awesome I hate to see it wasted on heatshrinkless sleeving. It should provide a very cheap alternative.

If you like I will send some as a sample so you can see what I mean!


----------



## Lutro0

Two new sections added to the FAQ and I had some time to update it all around.

Heatshrinkless Or Heathshrink Methods?
- What does all of this mean?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



This may be a basic question for most of us, but it can get a little confusing. Let me explain.

*Heatshrink style sleeving* is using heatshrink to hold the sleeve onto the wire when single or multiple sleeveing. Here is an example:



Also here is two video guides on this method to give you a deeper insight:









You can see that the heatshrink is on each wire, also the best heatshrink method sleeving keeps it straight in a row with a clean transition into the connector.

Right now the best heatshrink you can use for this is from MDPC as it has a thin wall and is 4:1 and precision cut to be perfect. This in combo with the LC Sleeving Tool make the job easy. _Remember though just because the HS is holding the wire you should still melt the sleeve under the heatshrink a little buy hovering the heatgun on it a little bit more then just what it takes to shrink the HS._

*Heatshrinkless Style Sleeving* is a relatively new method. It was birthed in MDPC but Lutro0 Customs was the first to sell extensions in this method and from there the popularity grew immensely as it offered an easier way to sleeve for everyone and gives the wires a much stronger hold. Heatshrinkless is a confusing name as for PET sleeving you need to use heatshrink to use the method, but for paracord you do not.

Here is an example:


Also here is some video examples:









As said before you only need to use heatshrink for the heatshrinkless method if you are using plastic type or PET sleeving, this is because it will expand if it has nothing to hold it down, also it creates a sort of plastic weld to the wire that is super strong, and then you cut off the shrink. Paracord on the other hand is a nylon material and will not expand so you can lightly melt it and shape it with your fingers so heatshrink is not needed.

I hope that explains the methods betters so its not confusing.



What Wire Do I Buy For What Method?
- What wire is the best for which method?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



I have been asked to put this on the faq for a while, but before I continue I want you to throw away all knowledge you have on sleeving wire basics and just trust my info as it has been tried and true on many many jobs.

*Heatshrink Method Wire*:

Nils has given out a certain diameter range of the best wire for his crimper and sleeving. I agree with some of it but I have found throughout many many jobs that the smaller the diameter of the wire for the heatshrink method the better! Think about it, you are trying to put a wire, a peice of heatshrink, part of a crimp, and a little bit of sleeve (this is for looks) into a small square hole on a connector. Logic would dictate if you can reduce the size of the materials going in then the easier it would be.... right?

Thats why MDPC heatshrink is so awesome, it has a thin wall and makes it easier - also this is why its almost impossible to use heatshrink on stock 16awg cables, they are just too thick.

Here is a link to the perfect wire I have found in the usa for heatshrink style sleeving. :http://www.amazon.com/UL1007-Commercial-Copper-Bright-Diameter/dp/B003HGHPQ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1355106964&sr=8-5&keywords=black+18awg



Now you dont need to buy it at amazon, infact the UL1007 is a standard of wire and if you buy UL1007 18AWG wire from any distributor it should be the same thing.

The combination of the Outside Diameter of 0.0403 inches and the insulation material provides a great grip on the crimp and allows for super super easy heatshrink style sleeving. I have found no better wire then this.

The only con I have found is that it has some light writing on the cable, but this can be removed with any strong cleaner just maker sure to wipe it off right away so it doesnt eat the insulation. But honestly if you sleeve right you wont see it period. I always leave it on.

*Heatshrinkless Method Wire*:

Being I was one of the first to market this style I have done tons of research into this wire. Infact after not being able to find an 16AWG wire (which has been a dream of mine for a while now - to be able to easily use a 16awg wire in sleeving) I went out and had wire custom made for heatshrinkless style and to help with cable management. My 16AWG cable is the only cable of its diameter and guage on the market due to the specifications of the cable. Which is why I am listing it on this FAQ - not to sell it, but its the only place to buy it.

So I present to you Lutro0 Customs Customs Heatshrinkless Style Wire:

http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-custom-16awg-black-wire-1ft
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-custom-16awg-white-wire-1ft
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-custom-18awg-black-wire-1ft
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-custom-18awg-white-wire-1ft


_This is an example of the 16AWG wire made for heatshrinkless style, you will notice that the diameter is smaller so that you will have an easy time sleeving but the thick wire will allow you to train your wires super easy._

I have specially designed this wire to be exactly the right diameter and type of insulation it needs to be to have robust crimps and allow for great cable management.

There is a few other cables out there like the 18AWG Coleman Cable that is a great alternative cable to use for heatshrinkless style, but I find that its hard to find for a good price other then on Amazon, which doesnt help out our international friends.


----------



## CrazyCorky

Lutro0 you're awesome!!


----------



## Mitch311

Ok, so I just bit the bullet and ordered the crimping tool and some other stuff from MDPC for my little project.







Not the cheapest but hopefully its worth it.

I am planning on moving my rig into a Silverstone Sugo SG05 in the next few months and am buying parts as and when I have the funds. (Just modular SFX and case left to buy). What I wanted to do was make custom cabling without sleeving, to save on space, but still look good. I thought about using cabling with black insulation for all the cables.

The question I have is about the wire itself as the stores in the UK don't seem to state the AWG rating. Is this suitable for custom cables on a PSU? http://www.maplin.co.uk/equipment-wire-24-0.2-6198 . It states what I assume is the metric equivalent 24 / 0.2 , but wanted confirmation from someone more knowledgeable.

If it is then I can just pop in store to pick it up, letting me practice my crimping while I wait for funds.


----------



## Big Elf

Yes, the 24/0.2 wire is the nearest equivalent to 18AWG and the Maplin's wire is fine, I've used it myself. Calculate how much you'll need as it may be more cost effective to buy the 100 metre reel at 1/2 the unit price of the 10 metre lengths.

Edit. Just had a thought but if you're not going to sleeve the wire then thicker insulation would help you get better 'flow' with the wires. I also use *this* from Rapid Electronics which is 2.3mm thick and holds it's position really well. You will have to pay P&P if the order is under £20 but it's still very good value for money.


----------



## Mitch311

Thanks Big Elf

Will the thicker insulation be ok with the MDPC crimper and crimps? Nils suggests a maximum diameter of 2.2mm and nothing above that.

I may just get 10m of the thinner wire to play with and see how it goes. I can always order the thicker stuff if I'm not happy with the look. A rough calculation of how much wire I would need for all the cables came to about 8m so doubling that to be extra safe would mean I could get away with 2 x 10m reels.

I've also not totally ruled out trying to sleeve the cables but in a case as small as the SG05 I'm not sure how tidy I can make it look as I've never done it before.


----------



## Big Elf

Actually, after looking at the case you'd probably be better with the thinner wire as it'll be easier to work with in a confined area.

I think Nils is referring to 16AWG wire which has a thicker inner core. The 24/0.2 with the thicker insulation has a thinner inner core than even 18AWG. So far, it hasn't damaged my crimper after about 200 metres of it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mitch311*
> 
> Nils suggests a maximum diameter of 2.2mm and nothing above that.
> ...
> I've also not totally ruled out trying to sleeve the cables but in a case as small as the SG05 I'm not sure how tidy I can make it look as I've never done it before.




This ATX24 cable above is for an SG05 with modular ST45SF-G PSU. Those white wires are 2.3mm and worked fine with MDPC crimper.

I tried also with the standard SG05 PSU (see below). I made two extra holes for PCIe and Sata wires but when sleeving it I got frustrated trying to get them all the exact right length and finally just bought the modular PSU.


----------



## Lutro0

New Section Added

How Do I De-Pin My PSU Pins?
- How do I get the wires out of the connectors without damaging, what is the best tool?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



This question has been a long time coming and for a large part seems to be one of the hardest things for a sleever to get down. Everyone at one time seems to have a problem with this.

I want to say first off, that please please please! DO NOT waste your money on the de-pinning kits out there. While they all have the basic intentions right they all all not even comparable to the Original Molex Tool. The Original Molex Tool was made by Molex just for the removal of the ATX terminals we use. Its made of high tool quality metal and will last you a life time if you take care of it. Further more, there is only 3 tools you will ever need for de-pinning anything in your computer.

*1. The Original Molex Extractor - http://lutro0-customs.com/products/original-molex-extractor
2. A Round 4Pin Molex Extractor - http://lutro0-customs.com/products/round-4pin-extractor
3. A run of the mill exacto knife with a pointed tip. (the exacto knife is used to pull up any of the tap type connectors)*

That tool set will last you longer, make your jobs easier, and in the long run cost you less then any other tool on the market.

Before going any further I suggest you give a look at my MDPC Video Guide starting at time: 2:46 - this is where I show exactly how to use the tool and how to handle the problem wires. This is the best method for handling them. 




If you watch the video you will see that my Original Molex Tool is slightly tweaked to be wider then how they come originally - this is a tweak I do to help get the tool on the outside of the pin.



The instructions are simple:

1. Insert the Molex Tool making sure to have both prongs on the outside of the terminal on the inside.
2. Push the wire up into connector while pushing down on the tool to make sure its all the way in.
3. While makeing sure the tool is still all the way in pull out the wire. (sometimes you make need to pull with some force as some terminals dig into the connector as this is how the PSU maker has made them.

This method will ALWAYS work, sometimes you may need allot more pull force then you think you should need but as long as you keep the wire straight so your pulling force is straight out of the connector you will be fine. If you need to repeat the steps and try again.

Allot of people also ask how do I remove the male terminals from the male connectors. It is done exactly the same way.

1. Insert your Molex Tool the same direction as the wings on the terminal and from the front side push the tool in untill it falls into the grooves for de-pinning. This can be frustrating as you can see them while you do this - but you will feel when it goes in. It just takes a little moving around.
2. Pull out wire while tool is pushed in.

And lastly we will cover the Round 4pin Extractor.

The Round 4pin Extractor needs little explanation as you simple use the right end to put over the round pin and then pull it out.

I will cover the Exacto Knife in another section as it needs allot of pictures to fully explain. But the simple rule with the Knife is that if it has a tab slightly lift it and pull the wire out, and if it doesn't have a tab you need to push down on the top part of the metal pin exposed on the side and push down to slide the pin out with the knife. But I will show you how when I update next.


----------



## alfredshuryan

I can't put in words all I've learned, enjoyed and how helpful all your tuts, guides and live streams have been. Mike (Lutro0) your a massive asset to the community. Thank You, I only hope I can be some help to your mission in return ~~~ Al


----------



## Lutro0

Two new Sections for the FAQ!

Can I Sleeve An SLI Bridge?
- Can you sleeve one and what do you need to do it?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



This is another question I get frequently, Nothing is more of an eyesore then an sli bridge that is not painted or that doesn't match the system it is in.

First things first, I want to share a video on one of the way this can be done by Alexander van der Linde If you haven't heard of his YouTube Channel I suggest you check it out.
http://www.youtube.com/user/alexvdl1?feature=watch

Here is his video on a clean and unique method for getting this task done:





Now this is only one method.

The basics of getting this task done are simply finding a sleeve that will go over the bridge and still compress down to look good. Also you want a heatshrink that you can stretch or have an exact size that will fit as well.

Now because there is so many different kinds of sleeving and I have seen it accomplished with just about 20 different kinda of sleeve and heatsrhink I will only provide the basic way of figuring out what you need:

One quick tip before we get started, just because your motherboard or gpu came with a bridge doesnt mean you need to use that one if its hard to sleeve. They can be purchased everywhere or gotten for free from OCN members.

*1.* Measure the diameter of the end of bridge (imagine you have a big circle - whats the smallest diameter circle you will need to get it over the end.

*2.* Now that you have that circle you need to find a sleeve that will STRETCH TO THE CIRCLE SIZE - DO NOT BUY THE SAME SIZE AS YOUR NEEDED CIRCLE! If you do that then you will not be able to collapse the sleeve enough to make it look like a tight weave. (cheap black sleeving can be bought by Barry (furryletters) on eBay check out his shop and look for clean cut, remember to call him and he will give you a better price)

*3.* Find some heatshrink that is a little bit under your circle so that you have to stretch it to make it fit, this will ensure a tight grip on the sleeve and bridge - make sure you at least have 3:1 or higher and not glue lined.

*4.* Stretch the HS with a needle nose pliers slowly until it fits.

*5.* Follow normal sleeving procedures.

Here is an example of finished work, I take no credit for the following pic and all credit is due to the maker:



Of course there is more then one way here to make your sli bridge look nice:

*1. Vinyl Film:*






*2. Paint.*


*3. Anything Really*


For reference here is a pic of a small selection of types of sli bridges.


So I hope that helps, there is so many different ways to do things when modding. And when sleeving odd shaped things always keep in mind if there is sharp corners try to use a file and make them not so sharp or use a little tape.



How Do I Sew My Cables? 
- How do I sew my sleeved cables to get them to stay in place.?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



I personally have never done this so I will be leaving the answer to this question to FrankNSteinPC. If you have not checked him out on Youtube yet please check his channel at: www.youtube.com/FrankNSteinPC

I have gotten his permission to post his videos on here for you, he is a great guy if you get a chance to meet him I suggest you do. Also his Mods are beautiful, if you find the time check them out.


















Also here is another video, that I found to be very informative as well:


----------



## Mitch311

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This ATX24 cable above is for an SG05 with modular ST45SF-G PSU. Those white wires are 2.3mm and worked fine with MDPC crimper.
> 
> I tried also with the standard SG05 PSU (see below). I made two extra holes for PCIe and Sata wires but when sleeving it I got frustrated trying to get them all the exact right length and finally just bought the modular PSU.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip


Thanks WiSK








Received my MDPC crimper in the mail today and managed a perfect crimp on my first try with the 2mm wire. I think I will try and get some of the thicker wire for a comparison.

The modular PSU is next on my shopping list so that I can get an idea of what looks good when a cable is complete. I might even try sleeving the cables, yours looks great. Leaving the case until last as Silverstone will be releasing the SG05B without a PSU in April / May at hopefully a reduced price. (I emailed them about selling an SG05 with the modular PSU and that was their reply)


----------



## Drzewo

Do You have any ways to cut wire perfectly on the length You wanted? I thought about making a hole in long wooden plank, which is perfectly diameter of the cable (maybe a little bit larger). Would it make its job?


----------



## WiSK

Metal ruler, measure three times, cut once


----------



## Killa Cam

seeing as my antec hcp 1000w has double wiring, can i avoid dealing with that and use 1 to 1 custom cables? will it effect performance if i choose to not use the oem wires?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killa Cam*
> 
> seeing as my antec hcp 1000w has double wiring, can i avoid dealing with that and use 1 to 1 custom cables? will it effect performance if i choose to not use the oem wires?


Well you can certainly use 1:1 extensions. Otherwise there is no way to avoid the double wires, you can't just change the way the cables are plugged to the connectors if that's what you're asking.


----------



## Killa Cam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Well you can certainly use 1:1 extensions. Otherwise there is no way to avoid the double wires, you can't just change the way the cables are plugged to the connectors if that's what you're asking.


word? dang, thankfully lutro0 has a guide. thanks


----------



## Lutro0

New section added!
Quote:


> Can I Crimp A Terminal With A Needle Nose Pliers?
> - What if I only need to crimp one or two wires because of a mistake or if I want to not use my crimper and use a needle nose on the heavier terminals?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> If you accidentally pull out the wire from the terminal and you dont want to buy a crimper you can use a needle nose pliers to crimp the terminals without having to buy a crimper. However if you need to do more then 4 or so then I would seriously look into getting a crimper as they will be stronger and way less time consuming to do.
> 
> But the process is simple:
> 
> 
> _Make sure to have a needle nose pliers and a wire stripper that you can strip the wire to 3mm or so. Strip the wire and proceed to the next step._
> 
> 
> _Make sure that the extra wire length is inside of the pin - this will give it a better connection and hold it into place for you a bit._
> 
> 
> _Crimp down the one side carefully._
> 
> 
> _Then fold over the other side and clamp it down, make sure to get it right on so it does not overhang._
> 
> 
> _Fold over the upper wing as close to the other, I even bend the open on over a little so I can round it over a bit more._
> 
> 
> _Try to round it over as much as possible - dont just clamp it down otherwise you will end up with a ovelapping metal that will not insert properly. These crimps are not the strongest but will work in an emergency._
> 
> And thats it! Like I said I dont recommend doing this with allot of crimps but if you are in a bind it will work in a pinch, this also work with other pins as well.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I dont recommend doing this with allot of crimps but if you are in a bind it will work in a pinch, this also work with other pins as well.


Important to mention this. If the crimp is not completely airtight, dust and moisture can collect inside the wings, and there is a risk of arcing. You can avoid this by squeezing really very very very hard on the pliers to ensure maximum contact between all strands of the wire and the wings of the pin.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Important to mention this. If the crimp is not completely airtight, dust and moisture can collect inside the wings, and there is a risk of arcing. You can avoid this by squeezing really very very very hard on the pliers to ensure maximum contact between all strands of the wire and the wings of the pin.


Good addition Wisk. I will add it here soon.


----------



## Razarach

Hi guys!
Anyone try this tool?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razarach*
> 
> Hi guys!
> Anyone try this tool?


http://lutro0-customs.com/products/custom-sleeved-12-24pin-extension

read the description on the tools page, one of the crimpers in the test bed is a model number off from the one on ebay. I have both but the difference is sizes and both have the same issues.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Okay so I'm going to sleeve my Corsair AX 1200 when I get it. What cables are double? Also, I'm going to sleeve Blue and white from a tech flex Sleeving kit from PPCs. Is that any good? I'll be buying an original molex tool....


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> Okay so I'm going to sleeve my Corsair AX 1200 when I get it. What cables are double? Also, I'm going to sleeve Blue and white from a tech flex Sleeving kit from PPCs. Is that any good? I'll be buying an original molex tool....


Stay away from sleeving kits as most if not all that I have tried had bad sleeving and or wrong ammounts.

The techflex kit comes with PET original sleeving which will not cover the wire totally.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Okay
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Stay away from sleeving kits as most if not all that I have tried had bad sleeving and or wrong ammounts.
> 
> The techflex kit comes with PET original sleeving which will not cover the wire totally.


do you carry any blue or white Sleeving? This will be my first time Sleeving and does the AX1200 have any double cables?


----------



## Wyza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> Okay
> do you carry any blue or white Sleeving? This will be my first time Sleeving and does the AX1200 have any double cables?


Just curious, why not just open your case up and look on the cables question?, Unless there are 24 wires coming from the PSU going to the MB header then there are double wires. (for example my XFX Pro series has 30 wires going into 24 for the MB.)


----------



## PCBuilder94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wyza*
> 
> Just curious, why not just open your case up and look on the cables question?, Unless there are 24 wires coming from the PSU going to the MB header then there are double wires. (for example my XFX Pro series has 30 wires going into 24 for the MB.)


I said when buy my PSU in a previous post. I do not have it yet and I'm sure someone here has worked with one.


----------



## Scorpion667

How many sleeving related scars do you have on your hands?


----------



## Wyza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> I said when buy my PSU in a previous post. I do not have it yet and I'm sure someone here has worked with one.


I apologize. Still, i picked the first image of a google search for the AX1200: http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviewimages/corsair-ax1200/corsair-ax1200_connectors.jpg As you can see it appears that it is a 1:1 pinout for the cpu.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion667*
> 
> How many sleeving related scars do you have on your hands?


Too many lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> Okay
> do you carry any blue or white Sleeving? This will be my first time Sleeving and does the AX1200 have any double cables?


I do infact - in both pet and paracord. I beleive the 1200 has either 1 or none. The pinout is mostly 1-1 flipped, so not like an extension but an extensions that is twisted.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Too many lol
> I do infact - in both pet and paracord. I beleive the 1200 has either 1 or none. The pinout is mostly 1-1 flipped, so not like an extension but an extensions that is twisted.


Okay cool thanks ill be placing an order from your store very soon.


----------



## seross69

Lutro0,

My Crimper says it is good for 18 to 12 awg wire. I want to use 12 AWG because it is stiffer can I still sleeve it or will I have to use smaller wire. I am also very good with a soldering iron as I am a maintenance electrician ....

any help or advice you can give would be appreciated!!


----------



## ramicio

I've found that those ratcheting crimpers like shown in the OP are garbage and don't make good crimps. They're cheap Chinese crap. They never crimp anything straight and they just wind up mashing down and not making a real crimp. The dies don't even line up when closed. I wouldn't even expect a proper crimp even if things lined up because the jaws don't close in a parallel manner. I use parallel crimping tools like the Sargent 1026CT. It doesn't do smaller contacts like your tiny front panel contacts, but it will do your Molex 8981, SATA power pins, and your Molex Mini-Fit Jr. contacts. I recently picked up a smaller version of the same tool from an radio control flea market expo show, but I can't find them on the Internet. They do the smaller pins I spoke of. I like these tools because the they are easy to use. Ratcheting is just a pointless frill and releasing the ratchet is just a pain.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramicio*
> 
> I've found that those ratcheting crimpers like shown in the OP are garbage and don't make good crimps. They're cheap Chinese crap. They never crimp anything straight and they just wind up mashing down and not making a real crimp. The dies don't even line up when closed. I wouldn't even expect a proper crimp even if things lined up because the jaws don't close in a parallel manner. I use parallel crimping tools like the Sargent 1026CT. It doesn't do smaller contacts like your tiny front panel contacts, but it will do your Molex 8981, SATA power pins, and your Molex Mini-Fit Jr. contacts. I recently picked up a smaller version of the same tool from an radio control flea market expo show, but I can't find them on the Internet. They do the smaller pins I spoke of. I like these tools because the they are easy to use. Ratcheting is just a pointless frill and releasing the ratchet is just a pain.


Yes i agree and have always disabled the ratcheting part of any crimpers i have had. Especially at work. easier to get good crimps this way. because you can stop and open to adjust at anytime.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Lutro0,
> 
> My Crimper says it is good for 18 to 12 awg wire. I want to use 12 AWG because it is stiffer can I still sleeve it or will I have to use smaller wire. I am also very good with a soldering iron as I am a maintenance electrician ....
> 
> any help or advice you can give would be appreciated!!


My crimpers are specially milled to accept higher gauges of wire - as I have never tried 12awg wire with them I cannot say for sure - However I am able to crimp 16awg wire with an OD of 2.1 MM easily. It just depends on your OD.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramicio*
> 
> I've found that those ratcheting crimpers like shown in the OP are garbage and don't make good crimps. They're cheap Chinese crap. They never crimp anything straight and they just wind up mashing down and not making a real crimp. The dies don't even line up when closed. I wouldn't even expect a proper crimp even if things lined up because the jaws don't close in a parallel manner. I use parallel crimping tools like the Sargent 1026CT. It doesn't do smaller contacts like your tiny front panel contacts, but it will do your Molex 8981, SATA power pins, and your Molex Mini-Fit Jr. contacts. I recently picked up a smaller version of the same tool from an radio control flea market expo show, but I can't find them on the Internet. They do the smaller pins I spoke of. I like these tools because the they are easy to use. Ratcheting is just a pointless frill and releasing the ratchet is just a pain.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes i agree and have always disabled the ratcheting part of any crimpers i have had. Especially at work. easier to get good crimps this way. because you can stop and open to adjust at anytime.


It really comes down to preference. I specially mill my own crimpers as Nils does a little as well.

I also made a crimping video to show how a little TLC on the crimper goes a long way. I have used a non ratchet crimper and hated them. They got the job done but the ratchet crimper has always been rated the best among the many poeople who use them. A proper Ratchet crimper should not smash the pin and should release easily if calibrated and set up right.

I will however agree out of the many many ratchet crimpers I have tested and used before selling the one that I do now in my store - a vast majority was just plain crap. But there are decent ratchet crimpers out there that do a phenominal job if they are set up right. If you have had a chance to try the Original Molex Ratchet Criper or MDPC Crimper or the LC Crimper then I suggest giving a high quality one a chance, I would be you would like them.

But like I said some people prefer the non ratcheting ones out of personal preference. The ability to use the ratchet clicks to pre-crimp a pin and then to make sure that its on the right spot for extensions is a huge must.


----------



## ramicio

All of those ratcheting crimpers you get from computer mod stores are the exact same Chinese special with maybe different plastic handle colors. Some are good and some are bad because of crap quality control, not because of different manufacturers. It's not so much the ratchet that bothers me, it's that crimps need to be done in a straight fashion, and these cheap crimpers just don't offer that. A parallel crimper is the best. I've never once got a good crimp out of the ratcheting PC-mod-site type.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramicio*
> 
> All of those ratcheting crimpers you get from computer mod stores are the exact same Chinese special with maybe different plastic handle colors. Some are good and some are bad because of crap quality control, not because of different manufacturers. It's not so much the ratchet that bothers me, it's that crimps need to be done in a straight fashion, and these cheap crimpers just don't offer that. A parallel crimper is the best. I've never once got a good crimp out of the ratcheting PC-mod-site type.


If you like Ramicio I would love to send you one of mine to test out.

The maker I get them from is top notch and have always given me perfect crimps at all times.

Just shoot me a PM and I will get you set up. Not trying to argue with you as I very much agree with 90 percent of what you are saying but I would love to know your honest opinion on it!


----------



## deltief

I want to sleeve my psu cables, I have the HX 850 and the pci-e cables running to my gpu have a bump thing wrapped in heat shrink about an inch from where the cables plug into the gpu. I hope somebody knows the part Im talking about. What under there and is it okay to cut it off so I can sleeve these cables?


----------



## ramicio

I already have a bunch of crimpers. I've already formed my opinion on the ratcheting type.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If you like Ramicio I would love to send you one of mine to test out.
> 
> The maker I get them from is top notch and have always given me perfect crimps at all times.
> 
> Just shoot me a PM and I will get you set up. Not trying to argue with you as I very much agree with 90 percent of what you are saying but I would love to know your honest opinion on it!


Lutro0,

If it will crimp 12 AWG wire I will buy one and do a review on it for you. As i have ordered one from Niles and also brought one home from work going to try and see what is the best???

Let me know and I will get one.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deltief*
> 
> I want to sleeve my psu cables, I have the HX 850 and the pci-e cables running to my gpu have a bump thing wrapped in heat shrink about an inch from where the cables plug into the gpu. I hope somebody knows the part Im talking about. What under there and is it okay to cut it off so I can sleeve these cables?


It is most likely a capacitor or a ferrite bead. in either case you can remove them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramicio*
> 
> I already have a bunch of crimpers. I've already formed my opinion on the ratcheting type.


Thats fine, was hoping to give you a better informed opinion. But everyone is entitled to their opinion.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Lutro0,
> 
> If it will crimp 12 AWG wire I will buy one and do a review on it for you. As i have ordered one from Niles and also brought one home from work going to try and see what is the best???
> 
> Let me know and I will get one.


I replied to your pm. =)


----------



## villager

I need to purchase some Molex brand pins for a set of cables using standard molex connectors. I've been using Mouser.com for pin-sourcing as they don't have a minimum purchase amount. Could somebody provide me with the Molex part numbers for these male and female pins?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *villager*
> 
> I need to purchase some Molex brand pins for a set of cables using standard molex connectors. I've been using Mouser.com for pin-sourcing as they don't have a minimum purchase amount. Could somebody provide me with the Molex part numbers for these male and female pins?


I know Lutro0 carries them in his shop but I am not sure what his minimum order amount is.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *villager*
> 
> I need to purchase some Molex brand pins for a set of cables using standard molex connectors. I've been using Mouser.com for pin-sourcing as they don't have a minimum purchase amount. Could somebody provide me with the Molex part numbers for these male and female pins?


There is some information here http://www.overclock.net/t/1327420/pc-crimping-part-numbers


----------



## villager

Thanks Wisk. That is just what I needed.

Thanks gdubc. Lutro0 carries the pins, but his minimum order is over $30.00. His prices are great, but all I need is pins.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *villager*
> 
> Thanks Wisk. That is just what I needed.
> 
> Thanks gdubc. Lutro0 carries the pins, but his minimum order is over $30.00. His prices are great, but all I need is pins.


The min is $25.


----------



## gdubc

Hey Lutro0, whats up? Im gonna finally get that order in for some stuff today. I will message you again on facebook later with the order # so i can also get those crimpers. Its been a while but I usually work 60 hrs and had two kids birthdays and one's graduation so i've been too busy to even start sleeving!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Hey Lutro0, whats up? Im gonna finally get that order in for some stuff today. I will message you again on facebook later with the order # so i can also get those crimpers. Its been a while but I usually work 60 hrs and had two kids birthdays and one's graduation so i've been too busy to even start sleeving!


We will make sure to get those in!


----------



## royalkilla408

Hi,

Running out if MDPC-X heat shrink for my fans, and I need an alternative please. Can you guys tell me what and where I can buy a heatshrink for my fan cables? I use MDPC-X sleeve for my fans and I still have a ton of that but no more heat shrink.
Thanks!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royalkilla408*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Running out if MDPC-X heat shrink for my fans, and I need an alternative please. Can you guys tell me what and where I can buy a heatshrink for my fan cables? I use MDPC-X sleeve for my fans and I still have a ton of that but no more heat shrink.
> Thanks!


Give lutro0customs.com a try. I just added a ton of hs


----------



## Wyza

I didn't see it in the FAQ, but is there a recommendation on fan/led wiring? Just simple 22 or 24 guage, 2,3,or 4 wire (depending on the fan/led)?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wyza*
> 
> I didn't see it in the FAQ, but is there a recommendation on fan/led wiring? Just simple 22 or 24 guage, 2,3,or 4 wire (depending on the fan/led)?


26awg seems to be the easiest to use,


----------



## andyv

I am really interested in sleeving my cables. However I am a bit worried about the PSU 24 pin. My PSU is semi modular. Would it be easier to pull one wire at a time and sleeve individually or label them and pull them all out at once? I guess I am just freaking out that I will not put it back together properly


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> I am really interested in sleeving my cables. However I am a bit worried about the PSU 24 pin. My PSU is semi modular. Would it be easier to pull one wire at a time and sleeve individually or label them and pull them all out at once? I guess I am just freaking out that I will not put it back together properly


Some tips to give you peace of mind
1. Buy a PSU tester;
2. Wire colours are reliable indicators of what voltage a wire is (so you don't need to label each wire).
3. Take good quality close-up photos of both sides of the ATX24 so you know what coloured wires went where.
4. Inspect all the wires before you start, and if it's not just a standard single pin in the connector then make a note, make a photo, and label the wire.

Once you've done those things, you will have a good reference for checking your work.

If you start with the green wire (power supply on), the grey wire (power good), a yellow one (12V) and a black wire (ground) then most PSU testers will already give some feedback on the screen (or some beeps) and that can help you be more confident which what you are doing. Obviously don't be sleeving with the PSU plugged in


----------



## Dephcon

Are the double wire pins really necessary on a single rail PSU? What if the second wire (seems to be higher(lower? (it's smaller)) gauge on my PSU) was removed?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dephcon*
> 
> Are the double wire pins really necessary on a single rail PSU? What if the second wire (seems to be higher(lower? (it's smaller)) gauge on my PSU) was removed?


Higher gauge is smaller.

Can't really answer properly without knowing which PSU you have. If the double wire pins go to two different places, then it's a sense wire which helps the PSU adjust for voltage droop. Whereas if the double wire seems to start and end in the same place then you can usually replace it with a single wire (if in doubt step down to a bigger gauge).


----------



## Dephcon

Hey WiSK, It's a Seasonic X-850 with the 18 + 10 connector or something like that.

If it's using it to check the supplied voltage than I probably need it. I guess I'll might have to abandon the idea of doing an individual sleeve as it's in a NODE 605 with nowhere to hide the Y merger.

Moddiy has some large size white sleeve that I might look into and do a bundle with white wire as i need to shorten it anyway and the experience wont hurt. I want to be ready for the NCASE M1 release!


----------



## Pidoma

Alright I a question.

I bought this power supply (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817256085) to sleeve.

I looked at the manual online and it shows this



That shows no double wires for the 24-pin correct?

I want to make sure I am reading that right.

Here is the link to the manual (http://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/Manual/power/EN-ST55F-G-Manual.pdf)

Anyone have any experience with this?

Thanks,

- Pidoma


----------



## ixsis

My understanding is that Silverstone PSU's that are compatible with the PP05 short cable kit (the PSU you linked to IS compatible with the short cable kit) do not have any double wires.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> My understanding is that Silverstone PSU's that are compatible with the PP05 short cable kit (the PSU you linked to IS compatible with the short cable kit) do not have any double wires.


This is what my understanding was...

I got the PSU and looked at the 24-pin and there are double wires


----------



## socketus

oops ! rong thread. Dltd.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> My understanding is that Silverstone PSU's that are compatible with the PP05 short cable kit (the PSU you linked to IS compatible with the short cable kit) do not have any double wires.


Not quite. Silverstone PSUs that are compatible with the PP05 do not *need* their double wires to work properly. Some still have a voltage sensor on the 3.3V wire, and a double wire on one 5V wire.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> This is what my understanding was...
> 
> I got the PSU and looked at the 24-pin and there are double wires


One is an orange wire connecting pin 13 to pin 20 PSU-side? It's a voltage sensor, but not needed for adequate operation. You can either cut the smaller wire off entirely, or follow what I did for mine http://www.overclock.net/t/662039/cable-sleeving-gallery-discussion/9490#post_20177129

Another is a red wire doubling the same pin? Just sleeve both wires together in one sleeve.

Use a PSU tester to verify that the delivery is still within ATX spec, i.e. +/- 5% voltage. You can get them for $20 and it'll give you peace of mind before plugging in your expensive hardware


----------



## ixsis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Not quite. Silverstone PSUs that are compatible with the PP05 do not *need* their double wires to work properly. Some still have a voltage sensor on the 3.3V wire, and a double wire on one 5V wire.


Excellent clarification WiSK, my statement was actually not phrased correctly because I meant to say the PP05 kit (or the long sleeved PP06) does not have double wires so if the PSU is compatible with the cable kits (and pretty much every Silverstone modular PSU in the last few years is) then the double wires,while they may be present, are not required.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ixsis*
> 
> I meant to say the PP05 kit does not have double wires. So if the PSU is compatible with the cable kits (and pretty much every Silverstone modular PSU in the last few years is) then the double wires,while they may be present, are not required.


Exactly!


----------



## Toad Boy

Is there currently any sort of device or clip that will enable the PCI cables to stay in shape?

I am planning to add a mid plate above the PSU and run the cables through a hole in it. An idea was to cut 14 small holes, one for each wire. This might work but I'm not sure I would be able to get the holes close enough together. And it would involve a lot of connecting and re-connecting.


----------



## Pidoma

Has anyone had any experience sleeving this PSU (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438006) EVGA SuperNOVA NEX750G 120-PG-0750-GR


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Has anyone ever tried to die white sleeving? It seems like RIT die would work and offers a large range of colors


----------



## ixsis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Has anyone ever tried to die white sleeving? It seems like RIT die would work and offers a large range of colors


You need to read through this very well done sleeve dying thread from cpachris

*Click here for all your sleeve dying questions*


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Oh nice! Lutro0 do you know how well your sleeve accepts dye?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toad Boy*
> 
> Is there currently any sort of device or clip that will enable the PCI cables to stay in shape?
> 
> I am planning to add a mid plate above the PSU and run the cables through a hole in it. An idea was to cut 14 small holes, one for each wire. This might work but I'm not sure I would be able to get the holes close enough together. And it would involve a lot of connecting and re-connecting.


If you are using plastic sleeve and stretch them well enough, then you can 'train' the wires to stay together. The stranded copper inside and the sleeve itself will hold a form when repeatedly bent into the desired shape. Then you could just make a single large opening instead of 14 holes.


----------



## Toad Boy

I have paracord now. I used to have MDPC-X which was a breeze to train.

I have found these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13583/ele-858/ModSmart_4_Wire_Kobra_SS_Cable_Bundler_-_Black_PCS-CB-4-BK.html?tl=g2c485.
But they are in the US, and can't be found in the UK.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Hey guys I just bought 125FT of this sleeving for my new PSU:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_32_209&products_id=2141

Does anyone know of an 850 or 750w with 1:1 pin outs? Also I would like to go heatshrinkless do I have to buy heatshrink?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> Hey guys I just bought 125FT of this sleeving for my new PSU:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=44_32_209&products_id=2141
> 
> Does anyone know of an 850 or 750w with 1:1 pin outs? Also I would like to go heatshrinkless do I have to buy heatshrink?


As it says in the first post of this FAQ thread, Silverstone Striders have one-to-one. The Gold Evolution range has no double wires as far as I know, and pretty much all modular Striders work within the ATX even if you remove all double wires and capacitors.


----------



## grassh0ppa

2 years later I have finally decided to sleeve my 24 pin connector after sleeving the 8 pin power and GPU cables initially. I'm going to need a lot more motivation if I'm going to tackle the peripheral cables! I'm having a hard time with the length of sleeve I need to cut. The cables are roughly 25 inches long end-to-end (including the metal connector). Before I waste more sleeve I thought I'd try asking first.


----------



## theirlaw

Further to the information provided by Lutro0 in the original post, is there any additional information out there regarding sleeving the SATA power ends? I currently have a sleeved SATA crimp terminal style power connector, but I think my setup would look and function better using a single inline connector with end cap.

It doesn't look like there is enough room for the wire and the sleeving to enter the connector once the cap is on, so what's the best way to do this?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theirlaw*
> 
> Further to the information provided by Lutro0 in the original post, is there any additional information out there regarding sleeving the SATA power ends? I currently have a sleeved SATA crimp terminal style power connector, but I think my setup would look and function better using a single inline connector with end cap.
> 
> It doesn't look like there is enough room for the wire and the sleeving to enter the connector once the cap is on, so what's the best way to do this?


There is so many variations due to different materials these days and styles that there is just not a perfect way to explain. Its trial and error, you need thin wire thats a good starting point.

I personally have my clients use the crimp type due to the clean and ease of using them.


----------



## theirlaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> There is so many variations due to different materials these days and styles that there is just not a perfect way to explain. Its trial and error, you need thin wire thats a good starting point.
> 
> I personally have my clients use the crimp type due to the clean and ease of using them.


Thanks for the response. I think I've seen you state in the past that it's just best to stick with 18 AWG. Does that not apply in this case? Obviously using a smaller gauge wire could simplify things. Are there no issues with power delivery if I was to switch to a lower gauge?

I do already have the cable wired and sleeved using crimp style terminals, so it isn't that critical.


----------



## WiSK

You need to keep the same gauge wire core, otherwise the connector won't make good contact. I believe Mike is suggesting it's easier to do using wire with very thin insulation.

The method I used was to put heatshrink over a very short piece of sleeving on the end of the wire, melt it a bit then remove the shrink. Then push the wire into the connectors. The longer part I pre-melted and used superglue to try to fix it at the connector. You can see that the top one got a bit loose though, and the second from top was too long so I wasn't able to stretch it very well. You need to make many measurements, many attempts and be prepared to throw away a lot of melted wires and bits of sleeve.


----------



## theirlaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You need to keep the same gauge wire core, otherwise the connector won't make good contact. I believe Mike is suggesting it's easier to do using wire with very thin insulation.
> 
> The method I used was to put heatshrink over a very short piece of sleeving on the end of the wire, melt it a bit then remove the shrink. Then push the wire into the connectors. The longer part I pre-melted and used superglue to try to fix it at the connector. You can see that the top one got a bit loose though, and the second from top was too long so I wasn't able to stretch it very well. You need to make many measurements, many attempts and be prepared to throw away a lot of melted wires and bits of sleeve.


That certainly helps and gives me somewhere to start. If I'm serious about it, I'm going to have to grab some new wire with thinner insulation. I mentioned it in my PM to you, but I'm using an FT03 Mini, so the cable is going from the modular SFX PSU to the SSD bracket. Here's the current state of things:



I could be perfectly happy with the way that it currently sits, but I don't like how the wires travel so close to the securing screw on the SSD bracket. I know that may come across as somewhat OCD, but I can't help pay attention to the little details.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theirlaw*
> 
> I could be perfectly happy with the way that it currently sits, but I don't like how the wires travel so close to the securing screw on the SSD bracket. I know that may come across as somewhat OCD, but I can't help pay attention to the little details.


Looks great so far, but I see what you mean, that would indeed look better with a 90 degree connector


----------



## andyv

I am having a bit of trouble removing the pins from my connector. It is the modular end of the cable. To me it looks the same as a 24 pin... pin. however Nothing I do will remove it. I have a corsair HX620. Any ideas?


----------



## Big Elf

Are you pushing the wire back up into the housing with the tool fully inserted before trying to pull it out holding the wire straight. You sometimes need more force than you think (and sometimes pull the wire out of the pin







).


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> I am having a bit of trouble removing the pins from my connector. It is the modular end of the cable. To me it looks the same as a 24 pin... pin. however Nothing I do will remove it. I have a corsair HX620. Any ideas?


I have had to pull really hard. I actually sliced my finger open last night from the pin connector.


----------



## theirlaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You need to keep the same gauge wire core, otherwise the connector won't make good contact. I believe Mike is suggesting it's easier to do using wire with very thin insulation.


Any suggestions as far as wire with thinner insulation? Best I can find is 18 AWG hookup wire with an overall diameter of 2mm. I don't think that's much better than I already have.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theirlaw*
> 
> Any suggestions as far as wire with thinner insulation? Best I can find is 18 AWG hookup wire with an overall diameter of 2mm. I don't think that's much better than I already have.


The best 18awg wire that I have ever used with a nice thin insulation is the stuff I use myself and sell in my shop:

http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-custom-18awg-black-wire-25ft-thin-diameter


----------



## andyv

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> I have had to pull really hard. I actually sliced my finger open last night from the pin connector.


have been pulling pretty hard. Feel like its not budging. Will try a but more jiggling etc. tonight. The pin has 4 sides and looks like this [ ] with what looks like a gap. Which side should I be inserting the two pronged tool in? On the outside that is.


----------



## theirlaw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> The best 18awg wire that I have ever used with a nice thin insulation is the stuff I use myself and sell in my shop:
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-custom-18awg-black-wire-25ft-thin-diameter


What's the outer diameter on that? If it's less than 2mm, I'm going to have to go for some.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theirlaw*
> 
> What's the outer diameter on that? If it's less than 2mm, I'm going to have to go for some.


It is indeed way less then 2mm. Everyone has loved it.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andyv*
> 
> I
> have been pulling pretty hard. Feel like its not budging. Will try a but more jiggling etc. tonight. The pin has 4 sides and looks like this [ ] with what looks like a gap. Which side should I be inserting the two pronged tool in? On the outside that is.


http://lutro0-customs.com/products/original-molex-extractor


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/original-molex-extractor


Any suggestion on how to bend the terminal contacts back? A few of mine have bent backwards from pulling.


----------



## gdubc

Hobby knife and carefully pry them back. They are very fragile and if you cant get them back to the right shape then you may have to crimp on a new one.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Hobby knife and carefully pry them back. They are very fragile and if you cant get them back to the right shape then you may have to crimp on a new one.


Also and its not recommended but having only one wing will work ONLY IF YOU HAVE TO.


----------



## Lutro0

Pro Tip Section added to the bottom of the FAQ for bonus reading material and info.
Quote:


> *Lutro0s Sleeving Pro Tips*
> _This section of the FAQ will consist of random bits and pieces categorized by series that I tend to go in depth in at times, or show examples of perfect work or "how it should look", and even random materials that are needed for special sleeving methods and those methods._
> 
> Pro Tip #001 Heatshrinkless Basics Explained (How it should look series)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Pro Tip #001:*
> 
> _When heatshrinkless sleeving one of the most important things to get right is how you are melting the sleeve and how it looks when you insert it into the connector. If you did too much or too little it will show in this phase or not even click inside the connector at all.
> 
> That is why heatshrink is used on plastic sleeving and paracord you can use no heatshrink. As you melt the plastic the heatshrink will help form a cone of sorts neatly sealing the edge of the sleeve. With plastic type monofilament sleeve this is so much more important as those strands like to bend out of place, and paracord melts together allowing you to make a cord and its a softer material so it will go into the connector much easier allowing much more room for error.
> 
> The heatshrink you use is so important for this "heatshrinkless" method as it needs to be somewhat resistant to heat and hold its form when heated with a lighter for longer amounts of time not leaving too much of a residue on the sleeve. Also you do not want it being too tight and squeeze the plastic too hard as that will not give you a gradual cone but more of a melt then sleeve with no transition making putting the sleeved cable into the connector almost impossible and defiantly not leaving it how it should look. I recommend the following shrink for heatshrinkless as its the same I use : http://lutro0-customs.com/products/1-4th-inch-3-1-ratio-heatshrink-4ft-for-heatshrinkless cut in about 10mm lengths so the last edge does not get shrunk making it easy to cut off. The heatshrink needs to be able to handle the heat because when you are done heating it up you need to pat it down to help form the cone shape and ensuring a strong melt onto the wire and pin.
> 
> Of course there is more things that make the heatshrinkless method not only easy but a thing of beauty fully filling the connector leaving you with a fully sleeved cable that is easy to train.
> 
> The example shown is of LC Custom 16awg wire with LC Stiff-Line Brown Sleeving which is why it looks full and super dense not showing the wire a bit and this shot is a close up.
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-custom-16awg-black-wire-1ft
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/lc-stiff-line-sleeving-brown-25ft
> 
> I hope that this helps you sleevers out there get more of an understanding of a method that is never cut and dry but more of an art._


----------



## Audiophile20

Lutr0s, thank you for your time effort for sharing your experiences and knowledge with the rest of us.

I have a watercooled setup with 2 PSU. I am now considering sleeping all PSU cables. I think custom length cables will reduce the clutter and give it the right look 

Both PSUs are Seasonic and have the dreaded 2 to 1 PIN connection. Any thoughts on how to handle theses? Please note I have read your suggestion that 1 to 1 PIN connections are best, but I am not inclined to switch out PSUs at this time. Hoping for good insights please.

Thank you!


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile20*
> 
> ...Both PSUs are Seasonic and have the dreaded 2 to 1 PIN connection. Any thoughts on how to handle theses?...


Check out Lutro0s


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Check out Lutro0s


What BE said, thats the best way.


----------



## szeged

Anyone know if the modsmart/kobra sleeve or bitspower sleeve is worth getting? Atm i can only get my sleeving from performance-pcs, so mdpc is out unfortunately. I was going to buy the 200ft spool of kobra black but wanted to know if it was any good, i also saw they sell bitspower sleeve and wanted to know if it was worth getting about 100 feet of it in red.


----------



## Big Elf

Check out *What Different Kinds Of Sleeveing Is There & Whats Worth Buying?* in the FAQs


----------



## szeged

Nvm, got my card to work with mdpc, ordered the 100meter dump pack of black, 20 meters of red, some heatshrink and a molex tool(because using homemade tools sucksssss)

hopefully they arrive soon so i can have many many pictures to load up


----------



## Aspirin

How would you sleeve one of these? Their stuck together, do I separate each wire individually?


----------



## gdubc

I would make an entire new one. If you need 8 pin make an 8 pin and if you only need a 6 then just make a 6.


----------



## Lutro0

New Pro Tip Added!

Pro Tip #002 Importance of washing your hands.


Spoiler: Click to Expand



*Pro Tip #002:*

_When sleeving with light colors for example white or yellow or a light green, wash your hands before you sleeve to avoid staining the sleeve with heatshrink residue due to HSless Sleeving.

This should also be done before sleeving with any material due to the natural body oils making the wire slick and harder to stretch. If you use a nice dish soap (non lotion or scented) it will improve your grip on the sleeve. This makes sleeving allot easier and keeps your sleeving clean and slightly less attractive to dust._


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> New Pro Tip Added!
> 
> Pro Tip #002 Importance of washing your hands.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> *Pro Tip #002:*
> 
> _When sleeving with light colors for example white or yellow or a light green, wash your hands before you sleeve to avoid staining the sleeve with heatshrink residue due to HSless Sleeving.
> 
> This should also be done before sleeving with any material due to the natural body oils making the wire slick and harder to stretch. If you use a nice dish soap (non lotion or scented) it will improve your grip on the sleeve. This makes sleeving allot easier and keeps your sleeving clean and slightly less attractive to dust._


Also can use a plastic sandwich bag or ziplock as gloves while stretching to avoid skin oils and helps against rope burn too


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Also can use a plastic sandwich bag or ziplock as gloves while stretching to avoid skin oils and helps against rope burn too


Adding!


----------



## gdubc

Lol, I've been using food grade plastic gloves.


----------



## wrayman

About to try my first sleeving job, this thread has to be one of the best things ever







Thanks a lot guys


----------



## Liradon

Lutro0,

Do you already ship to Europe?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> Lutro0,
> 
> Do you already ship to Europe?


He definitely ships to the UK as I've had an order directly from him.

Also *E22* stocks a lot of the products but I've had a problem with my latest order. It's not E22s fault rather Royal Mail who've apparently lost the package but I know someone in Spain who also had the same problem with a lost order from them which was a bit embarrassing as I'd recommended them. My previous order was delivered next day and this lost order is being re-delivered.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> Lutro0,
> 
> Do you already ship to Europe?


As Big(theawesome)Elf Said I do ship world wide, but I do have a reseller in the UK. E22.biz Great Guy and has my customer service heart.


----------



## pcmonky

Hey LutroO, got a few questions.

Is it necessary to buy new wire when sleeving or is that something you should do if the color of the wire can be seen through the sleeving?

Noob question ( first time sleever ) : for a 24 pin atx cable, Im assuming for every male crimp there is a female crimp? which means I need to order 1 male/ female crimp per cable right?

and I assume the crimps that came with the psu cannot be reused right?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcmonky*
> 
> Hey LutroO, got a few questions.
> 
> Is it necessary to buy new wire when sleeving or is that something you should do if the color of the wire can be seen through the sleeving?
> 
> Noob question ( first time sleever ) : for a 24 pin atx cable, Im assuming for every male crimp there is a female crimp? which means I need to order 1 male/ female crimp per cable right?
> 
> and I assume the crimps that came with the psu cannot be reused right?


You only need to buy new wire if you're making up your own cables or you want to sleeve a coloured wire e.g. black with a white PET sleeve. If you use MDPC-X or Lutro0 Customs sleeve then providing you stretch it tightly enough you shouldn't be able to see the wire underneath however on light coloured PET sleeve, especially white you will get a 'tint' of the underlying wire colour. Certainly in the case of MDPC-X the white would have a very slight grey tint (with a red wire white will have a faint pinkish tint). You can try covering the wire in white tape but I personally don't like that method although I have been known to use a black Sharpie on light coloured wires.

With good quality paracord you shouldn't be able to see the colour or hint of a tint of the wire at all.

On a fully modular PSU all the ATX pins will be female.

Although in theory you could try and reuse the pins it's not worth the effort of risk of them becoming detached as they break quite easily after they've been crimped once.


----------



## pcmonky

Ill be buying MDPC black sleeving.

I read in a post in this thread that factory psu wire is not nearly fleaxible as the wire that LutroO recommends on amazon. It seems its best to just buy new wire no?


----------



## Big Elf

Lutro0 has recommended thinner diameter wire as it's a doddle to sleeve using heatshrink compared to that supplied with PSUs. However if you're going to sleeve heatshrinkless there's no great advantage to making up your own wires unless you:

want custom lengths;
want the underlying wire colour to either be black or white to match the colour or shade of the sleeve;
use wire with a thicker diameter to help 'train' it better;


----------



## ZealPC

Hi LutroO,

I've got a few questions as well. I'm working on an MATX build so the default wires on the Silverstone Gold Evolution 750W would be too long to sleeve, so I'm thinking of making custom wires. Only problem is the 24pin ATX cable only has 23 wires! I followed a couple wires on the other end and saw that one of the cables had a thin (orange?) wire that plugged in with another orange wire. Would that thin wire be necessary? And how would i go about filling that extra hole with a fake wire?

I also read that the capacitors on the PCIE connectors aren't necessary. Since I'm making custom wires, do I need to reuse the blue connectors (on one end of PCIE/24pin connectors) or will your black ones work as well?

I also plan to have 2 separate SATA power lines connecting to my SSDs. If I don't want to use the push-in style power ones, are these the proper connectors for a single line?
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/sata-power-crimp-style-connector
http://lutro0-customs.com/products/sata-power-crimp-terminal-5-count

Oh and last question, how do I go about sleeving a 4pin fan header? Say I'm using some Corsair SP120s. The fan cables are flat ribbon ones. Do I just slip a sleeve ontop and heatshrink it? Or rip it and have 4 individual sleeves?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealPC*
> 
> Hi LutroO,
> 
> I've got a few questions as well. I'm working on an MATX build so the default wires on the Silverstone Gold Evolution 750W would be too long to sleeve, so I'm thinking of making custom wires. Only problem is the 24pin ATX cable only has 23 wires! I followed a couple wires on the other end and saw that one of the cables had a thin (orange?) wire that plugged in with another orange wire. Would that thin wire be necessary? And how would i go about filling that extra hole with a fake wire?
> 
> *The thin orange wire is likely to be a sensor cable and is likely required. Hopefully Wisk will see this thread as he knows a fair bit about these PSUs. Edit: See also Post#8*
> 
> *If you want you can create a 'dummy splice' to fill the extra hole i.e. the wire doesn't actually connect to anything. Not brilliant photos in this thread but hopefully enough to give you the idea.*
> 
> I also read that the capacitors on the PCIE connectors aren't necessary. Since I'm making custom wires, do I need to reuse the blue connectors (on one end of PCIE/24pin connectors) or will your black ones work as well?
> *
> The capacitors are to help reduce coil whine and ripple when the PSU is under heavy load. Apparently, providing you're not on the limits you should be OK removing them. Alternatively solder them back in out of sight near the PSU*
> 
> I also plan to have 2 separate SATA power lines connecting to my SSDs. If I don't want to use the push-in style power ones, are these the proper connectors for a single line?
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/sata-power-crimp-style-connector
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/sata-power-crimp-terminal-5-count
> 
> *Yes*
> 
> Oh and last question, how do I go about sleeving a 4pin fan header? Say I'm using some Corsair SP120s. The fan cables are flat ribbon ones. Do I just slip a sleeve ontop and heatshrink it?
> 
> *Yes, this
> 
> 
> 
> might be helpful.*


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealPC*
> 
> I've got a few questions as well. I'm working on an MATX build so the default wires on the Silverstone Gold Evolution 750W would be too long to sleeve, so I'm thinking of making custom wires. Only problem is the 24pin ATX cable only has 23 wires! I followed a couple wires on the other end and saw that one of the cables had a thin (orange?) wire that plugged in with another orange wire. Would that thin wire be necessary?


The orange thin wire is a voltage sensor, which tests the 3.3V for voltage droop. You can leave it out safely - Silverstone themselves make accessory cables with no sense wire, nor capacitors. But for optimal operation I would recommend keeping it. Follow the double wire video http://www.overclock.net/t/1262904/video-sleeving-guide-series


----------



## Lutro0

Thanks everyone for providing the answers to these questions. We have been super busy with many projects. But as always the sleeving community here is the bomb and always helps out everyone.

Thanks guys!


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcmonky*
> 
> Hey LutroO, got a few questions.
> 
> Is it necessary to buy new wire when sleeving or is that something you should do if the color of the wire can be seen through the sleeving?
> 
> Noob question ( first time sleever ) : for a 24 pin atx cable, Im assuming for every male crimp there is a female crimp? which means I need to order 1 male/ female crimp per cable right?
> 
> and I assume the crimps that came with the psu cannot be reused right?


It's never a bad idea to have some wire handy when you're dealing with sleeving/crimping. Even if you don't plan on it, you might end up NEEDING to make yourself a new wire because of dbl wires or maybe if you mess something up.

If you just remove the pins from the Molex connector, sleeve it, and put the Molex back on, you shouldn't need to replace the pins with new ones as long as you don't run into issue's when you take the pins out, or you don't run into issue's with dbl wires. That being said, you should definitely have a bag of crimps handy for whatever type of connector you're working with. The Lutro0 crimper he sells on his site comes with 100 female crimps. You're gonna mess up a crimp from time to time. I'm pretty new to crimping (Thank You Lutro0 for teaching me how to crimp even though we've never met or spoken =P) and sometimes i'll go through 4 or 5 crimps b4 i get it perfect.

If you don't really know what you're doing, you should absolutely not order the exact amount of crimps that you're gonna need because you're gonna need ALOT more than that =P
Also, most 24 pin ATX cables have FEMALE crimps on both sides. The male pins are usually on your Motherboard and PSU


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Also, most 24 pin ATX cables have FEMALE crimps on both sides. The male pins are usually on your Motherboard and PSU


I suppose you mean that this is the case with fully modular PSU's?
And if this is the case, do all the cables have female connectors? Or are you simply referring to his 24 pin he wants to sleeve?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Don't know if this is the correct place, but I am contemplating making new sleeved cables for my Silverstone strider 850w PSU.

ATM thinking of only doing the 24pin MB ATX, 8pin EPS, 1x 6pin PCIe and 1x 8pin PCIe cable.

Just wondering how long it might take an amateur to do something like this? And truly how hard is it to get a nice finish?


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Don't know if this is the correct place, but I am contemplating making new sleeved cables for my Silverstone strider 850w PSU.
> 
> ATM thinking of only doing the 24pin MB ATX, 8pin EPS, 1x 6pin PCIe and 1x 8pin PCIe cable.
> 
> Just wondering how long it might take an amateur to do something like this? And truly how hard is it to get a nice finish?


Good to hear that you want to do this work all by yourself! By doing it yourself, you get the product and the result YOU want it to be








I'm not saying I'm an expert at this, but I have quiet some experience in making cable extentions and sleeving all sorts of PSU's and extentions, and it takes ma about an hour and a half to make one 6pin PCI cable. This means : Cutting the cables to the perfect length, stripping them, crimping the terminals and sleevint them. It also depends on how perfect you want them to be. As a beginner, I'd say add an hour. And that's just for one 6pin PCI cable.


----------



## ginger_nuts

So to do what I am aiming for, I would be looking at say 12+hrs. Considering I wouldn't find the time to do that in a row it would take many weekends









This will take more consideration I think.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So to do what I am aiming for, I would be looking at say 12+hrs. Considering I wouldn't find the time to do that in a row it would take many weekends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This will take more consideration I think.


I don't really care if it takes me more than 12 hours to finish the job. I enjoy doing it







. And the end result is really worth it. Knowing that you did it all by yourself is really pleasing







.
I'd say give it a try! But start small. your GPU cables for example.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I think I might.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I think I might.


Keep me up to date!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZealPC*
> 
> Hi LutroO,
> 
> I've got a few questions as well. I'm working on an MATX build so the default wires on the Silverstone Gold Evolution 750W would be too long to sleeve, so I'm thinking of making custom wires. Only problem is the 24pin ATX cable only has 23 wires! I followed a couple wires on the other end and saw that one of the cables had a thin (orange?) wire that plugged in with another orange wire. Would that thin wire be necessary? And how would i go about filling that extra hole with a fake wire?
> 
> I also read that the capacitors on the PCIE connectors aren't necessary. Since I'm making custom wires, do I need to reuse the blue connectors (on one end of PCIE/24pin connectors) or will your black ones work as well?
> 
> I also plan to have 2 separate SATA power lines connecting to my SSDs. If I don't want to use the push-in style power ones, are these the proper connectors for a single line?
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/sata-power-crimp-style-connector
> http://lutro0-customs.com/products/sata-power-crimp-terminal-5-count
> 
> Oh and last question, how do I go about sleeving a 4pin fan header? Say I'm using some Corsair SP120s. The fan cables are flat ribbon ones. Do I just slip a sleeve ontop and heatshrink it? Or rip it and have 4 individual sleeves?


If the double wire goes to the same spot on both sides like its a double wire that goes to the same hole on both sides then yes the thin one can be removed. The missing hole is normal there is 2 standards for an atx motherboard connection they are really close and some have the missing one and some dont. You can just put a normal wire in the missing one and you should be fine. Check to see if there is an male pin on your powersupply for it- most of the time it is still there - if it is check the pin out to make sure its the right voltage - most of the time it is.

Yes on the connector and crimps. I tend to use those whenever I can for sata power as imo they are cleaner.

You should be able to peel them apart or just sleeve over it. In anycase you can just put sleeve over all of them. Check out my fan sleeving guide on youtube.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcmonky*
> 
> Hey LutroO, got a few questions.
> 
> Is it necessary to buy new wire when sleeving or is that something you should do if the color of the wire can be seen through the sleeving?
> 
> Noob question ( first time sleever ) : for a 24 pin atx cable, Im assuming for every male crimp there is a female crimp? which means I need to order 1 male/ female crimp per cable right?
> 
> and I assume the crimps that came with the psu cannot be reused right?


It is not, however if you use a light colored sleeve such as yellow or white you will want to have white wire under it to make the colors correct.
Also using the right wire makes a huge difference in the end product. Also I replace all of the thin wires to be the same guage as the rest as this is noticeable to some people if you sleeve the thinner guage wires.

24 pins use female terminals - Male atx terminals are used for extensions.

Yes the terminals can be reused but its always smart to have some on hand just incase. You can get away with crimping them with a needle nose if you are just doing a couple but if you plan on doing more then that a crimper is advised. I sell one with 100 female terminals in my shop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Don't know if this is the correct place, but I am contemplating making new sleeved cables for my Silverstone strider 850w PSU.
> 
> ATM thinking of only doing the 24pin MB ATX, 8pin EPS, 1x 6pin PCIe and 1x 8pin PCIe cable.
> 
> Just wondering how long it might take an amateur to do something like this? And truly how hard is it to get a nice finish?


For a first time most of your time will be used watching guides and reading. I advice you watch the guides in full and read as much as you can to understand what you are doing. I would also practice on any spare cables you wont be using as your first one will be the hardest untill you get the hang of everything. I wouldnt concentrate much on how long it will take you as you will be learning how to handle everything on your first job, if you go heatshrinkless the learning curve is much faster but typically it can take 8 hours to over 12 - just depends on how fast you learn.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Lutro0


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> I suppose you mean that this is the case with fully modular PSU's?
> And if this is the case, do all the cables have female connectors? Or are you simply referring to his 24 pin he wants to sleeve?


I'm talking about modular cables. Obviously a non modular PSU would only have one end on the cable =P. All modular PSU's that i know about have male on the PSU. So the cable has a female for the PSU and a female for the Mobo. Same thing for your GPU/CPU/Etc cables. If you're making extensions on the other hand, then you need male, female, and wire because you'll be making your own cables.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I'm talking about modular cables. Obviously a non modular PSU would only have one end on the cable =P. All modular PSU's that i know about have male on the PSU. So the cable has a female for the PSU and a female for the Mobo. Same thing for your GPU/CPU/Etc cables. If you're making extensions on the other hand, then you need male, female, and wire because you'll be making your own cables.


Yeh, I know about extentions, I make alot of those







But I've never had a modular PSU so I didn't know the cable were female - female. Thanks for that!


----------



## kpoeticg

No prob =)


----------



## MillerModPCs

Hi Guys!

I made this How To Sleeve Your Own Extensions From Scratch YouTube video. Hopefully it can answer some questions that maybe some you have.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerModPCs*
> 
> Hi Guys!
> 
> I made this How To Sleeve Your Own Extensions From Scratch YouTube video. Hopefully it can answer some questions that maybe some you have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snip


I don't know if you'd noticed but there's quite a few Video Sleeving Guide links at the top of the forum.

Would you like constructive criticism or would you prefer blissful ignorance?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerModPCs*
> 
> I made this How To Sleeve Your Own Extensions From Scratch YouTube video. Hopefully it can answer some questions that maybe some you have.


Can I ask why pre-crimp and then fiddle with the wire to get it in? It looked like you had a few loose wire strands because of that. Isn't it easier and quicker to insert the wire directly into the crimper? The pin will be a bit more open then.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Can I ask why pre-crimp and then fiddle with the wire to get it in? It looked like you had a few loose wire strands because of that. Isn't it easier and quicker to insert the wire directly into the crimper? The pin will be a bit more open then.


Pre-crimping the terminals makes it easier to hold them in place while placing them over the wire. It has no negative side effects







.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I don't know if you'd noticed but there's quite a few Video Sleeving Guide links at the top of the forum.
> 
> Would you like constructive criticism or would you prefer blissful ignorance?


Aw, don't go to hard on him, Big Elf. He is just trying to grow in this 'business'.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Can I ask why pre-crimp and then fiddle with the wire to get it in? It looked like you had a few loose wire strands because of that. Isn't it easier and quicker to insert the wire directly into the crimper? The pin will be a bit more open then.


I find pre-crimping a big help but it's personal thing. It certainly helps if you do it correctly in the first place though

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> Aw, don't go to hard on him, Big Elf. He is just trying to grow in this 'business'.


Ah, there was me thinking it's a cynical attempt at promoting his own sleeving business without paying Artisans fees.


----------



## kpoeticg

When you insert the wire into the crimper, you can't really see the part of the pin where you want the wire to stop against. When you precrimp, you're trying to get it just enough so you can get the wire perfect and the pin to hold into place.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> When you insert the wire into the crimper, you can't really see the part of the pin where you want the wire to stop against. When you precrimp, you're trying to get it just enough so you can get the wire perfect and the pin to hold into place.


Right, 4 clicks for wire up to about 2.1 to 2.2mm in diameter and 3 and a bit clicks for wire around 2.3mm in diameter. I'd do 3 clicks if I was using wire about 3.5mm in diameter (i.e. never). The idea is to crimp it enough to position it on the wire and not have it move about while you finally crimp it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> When you insert the wire into the crimper, you can't really see the part of the pin where you want the wire to stop against. When you precrimp, you're trying to get it just enough so you can get the wire perfect and the pin to hold into place.


If you just do one click to hold the pin in the crimper, the inner wings are still in a V shape. Then when you insert the wire into the crimper the wire insulation stops perfectly against that V shape. Then you depress the crimper fully and done.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you just do one click to hold the pin in the crimper, the inner wings are still in a V shape. Then when you insert the wire into the crimper the wire insulation stops perfectly against that V shape. Then you depress the crimper fully and done.


That way you can't see if all the wires are in the inner crimps







.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I don't know if you'd noticed but there's quite a few Video Sleeving Guide links at the top of the forum.
> 
> Would you like constructive criticism or would you prefer blissful ignorance?


Haha, go get em BE.

In all srsness though, its always good to have constructive criticism. I always ask BE to let er rip on my guides even if its good or not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Can I ask why pre-crimp and then fiddle with the wire to get it in? It looked like you had a few loose wire strands because of that. Isn't it easier and quicker to insert the wire directly into the crimper? The pin will be a bit more open then.


Its kind of a personal preference. I have been doing it since I started and I do it for 2 reasons.

1. I can place the pin in the direction I want for making extensions and custom cables. This makes a huge difference and alot of people over look it.

2. I can make sure the crimp is perfect, for example I will know the wire is all the way in as far as it can go and because even the smallest bit of being off shows on extensions with a rainbow - I need to make sure that I didnt measure the wire 3 times for nothing. =D But I am a bit more meticulous then others when it comes to wire making.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> Aw, don't go to hard on him, Big Elf. He is just trying to grow in this 'business'.


He did a good job, better then most sleeving guides I have seen. But there is always room for improvement for EVERYONE.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you just do one click to hold the pin in the crimper, the inner wings are still in a V shape. Then when you insert the wire into the crimper the wire insulation stops perfectly against that V shape. Then you depress the crimper fully and done.


Either way works great. But I find with thicker guages that I personally like to work with that if I try that method I dont know for sure if the wire is all the way in. And I hate to waste a good wire by recrimping it if its off.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you just do one click to hold the pin in the crimper, the inner wings are still in a V shape. Then when you insert the wire into the crimper the wire insulation stops perfectly against that V shape. Then you depress the crimper fully and done.
> 
> 
> 
> That way you can't see if all the wires are in the inner crimps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Like I said, it's a personal thing. I find it easier to get the pin aligned in the right orientation on the wire by pre-crimping the pin even though it takes longer to do it that way. Some people have no difficulty doing the same thing without having to pre-crimp, sadly I'm not one of them.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you just do one click to hold the pin in the crimper, the inner wings are still in a V shape. Then when you insert the wire into the crimper the wire insulation stops perfectly against that V shape. Then you depress the crimper fully and done.


I can't imagine how you could do a 16 AWG without precrimping. It takes me 10 minutes just to get all the strands lined up. I'm still a n00b tho

Also, if you're doing 22AWG or smaller for LED's or fans, the wire doesn't always stop at the wings


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> If you just do one click to hold the pin in the crimper, the inner wings are still in a V shape. Then when you insert the wire into the crimper the wire insulation stops perfectly against that V shape. Then you depress the crimper fully and done.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't imagine how you could do a 16 AWG without precrimping. It takes me 10 minutes just to get all the strands lined up. I'm still a n00b tho
> 
> Also, if you're doing 22AWG or smaller for LED's or fans, the wire doesn't always stop at the wings
Click to expand...

One thing that helps is having a decent wire stripping tool as it doesn't distort the wire strands as badly as some of the cheap tools do. Unfortunately that particular tool strips off too much insulation (in my view) of 6mm when it should be about 3mm for a single wire and 4mm for a dual wire.

However you can easily mod the tool so it will strip 3mm without problem simply by inserting a small screw into the 'Stop'







I use 2 'Stops' to prevent any movement although they're not strictly necessary.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I can't imagine how you could do a 16 AWG without precrimping. It takes me 10 minutes just to get all the strands lined up. I'm still a n00b tho
> 
> Also, if you're doing 22AWG or smaller for LED's or fans, the wire doesn't always stop at the wings


Some of that can be taken care of with a thinner diameter 16awg. LC carries both 16 standard (which I love but it does take a little work to crimp) and 16 thin diameter and that goes on just like any other 18awg. But it does take practice regardless of which wire you use.


----------



## kpoeticg

I already have a bunch of your thin 16 but I haven't used it yet. The only experience I've had with crimping on 16 AWG was when i was making my pinout for the 24-Pin and a cpl times the pin got stuck and the 16 AWG wire ripped out of the pin, so i had to recrimp a new connector on. I'm still new to crimping, so the stock 16 on PSU was challenging. That's what i was referring to about getting the strands to line up

Big Elf, The Knipex stripper is pretty much the only investment i haven't made yet as far as sleeving. I'm still using the Vise brand automatic stripper i got from Home Depot. It's the cheaper one Lutro sells at his shop
I plan on ordering the Knipex next time i order from Lutro. Probly when the red Telios comes out I'll order that plus a bunch more wire. Last time i ordered I only had so much to spend so i couldn't grab the stripper


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 1. I can place the pin in the direction I want for making extensions and custom cables. This makes a huge difference and alot of people over look it.
> 2. I can make sure the crimp is perfect, for example I will know the wire is all the way in as far as it can go and because even the smallest bit of being off shows on extensions with a rainbow - I need to make sure that I didnt measure the wire 3 times for nothing. =D But I am a bit more meticulous then others when it comes to wire making.
> 
> Either way works great. But I find with thicker guages that I personally like to work with that if I try that method I dont know for sure if the wire is all the way in. And I hate to waste a good wire by recrimping it if its off.


I'm holding the crimper with the pin in it, so I know which way it's oriented.

It seems to me you introduce more variables by measuring the whole wire, then measuring how much to strip it, then trying to get that exactly lined up. If you let the insulation be your guide, then the number of things to measure is reduced and so the accuracy is increased.

I put the wire in and the V stops the insulation, so as long as I've measured the length of the insulation correctly, I know that from pin to pin, the wire will have an exact length. The length of the pin from V to end is static. It doesn't then matter if 3mm or 4mm of bare wire is showing, because I'm using the insulation as a guide instead of the wire. But as soon as the crimps are on, the insulation won't stretch anymore because the wire holds that exact length.



You know A (12.4mm), so by using the V of the inner wings to stop the insulation you know the exact length of the wire from pin end to pin end, with only one measurement: B.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> 1. I can place the pin in the direction I want for making extensions and custom cables. This makes a huge difference and alot of people over look it.
> 2. I can make sure the crimp is perfect, for example I will know the wire is all the way in as far as it can go and because even the smallest bit of being off shows on extensions with a rainbow - I need to make sure that I didnt measure the wire 3 times for nothing. =D But I am a bit more meticulous then others when it comes to wire making.
> 
> Either way works great. But I find with thicker guages that I personally like to work with that if I try that method I dont know for sure if the wire is all the way in. And I hate to waste a good wire by recrimping it if its off.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm holding the crimper with the pin in it, so I know which way it's oriented.
> 
> It seems to me you introduce more variables by measuring the whole wire, then measuring how much to strip it, then trying to get that exactly lined up. If you let the insulation be your guide, then the number of things to measure is reduced and so the accuracy is increased.
> 
> I put the wire in and the V stops the insulation, so as long as I've measured the length of the insulation correctly, I know that from pin to pin, the wire will have an exact length. The length of the pin from V to end is static. It doesn't then matter if 3mm or 4mm of bare wire is showing, because I'm using the insulation as a guide instead of the wire. But as soon as the crimps are on, the insulation won't stretch anymore because the wire holds that exact length.
> 
> 
> 
> You know A (12.4mm), so by using the V of the inner wings to stop the insulation you know the exact length of the wire from pin end to pin end, with only one measurement: B.
Click to expand...

In my case it's because when I insert the wire into the crimp in the tool I can't get it orientated perfectly in line with the crimp at the other end of the wire that I can with inserting the wire into the pin when it's pre-crimped. You're lucky in that you have the skill to do that but I can't get 100% results guaranteed every time whereas I can 99.9% of the time with the pre-crimping method. I bin my failures the other 0.1% of the time.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> In my case it's because when I insert the wire into the crimp in the tool I can't get it orientated perfectly in line with the crimp at the other end of the wire that I can with inserting the wire into the pin when it's pre-crimped. You're lucky in that you have the skill to do that but I can't get 100% results guaranteed every time whereas I can 99.9% of the time with the pre-crimping method. I bin my failures the other 0.1% of the time.


Yes it's true: whatever you are comfortable with is best method. I'm just trying to introduce a new idea


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm holding the crimper with the pin in it, so I know which way it's oriented.
> 
> It seems to me you introduce more variables by measuring the whole wire, then measuring how much to strip it, then trying to get that exactly lined up. If you let the insulation be your guide, then the number of things to measure is reduced and so the accuracy is increased.
> 
> I put the wire in and the V stops the insulation, so as long as I've measured the length of the insulation correctly, I know that from pin to pin, the wire will have an exact length. The length of the pin from V to end is static. It doesn't then matter if 3mm or 4mm of bare wire is showing, because I'm using the insulation as a guide instead of the wire. But as soon as the crimps are on, the insulation won't stretch anymore because the wire holds that exact length.
> 
> 
> 
> You know A (12.4mm), so by using the V of the inner wings to stop the insulation you know the exact length of the wire from pin end to pin end, with only one measurement: B.


We think the same way as I do that in my last step It may be an extra step but it has effectively stopped any uneven wires., I make my first measurement of just blank wires, then measure out my different length wires using guide wires with one side crimped. Then I let the wire stripper and its stripping length be the final guide - so when I goto crimp it I make sure its all the way in. Its great to see how everyone looks at it a little differently.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Its great to see how everyone looks at it a little differently.


Indeed









Here's a video with me mumbling. I used cheap wire strippers and was sloppy with marking the length, so it could have been better accuracy, but I wanted to show how well it can go when using the V of the wings and only clicking once on the crimper. Pretty quick too once you get going.


----------



## MillerModPCs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I don't know if you'd noticed but there's quite a few Video Sleeving Guide links at the top of the forum.
> 
> Would you like constructive criticism or would you prefer blissful ignorance?


With information comes knowledge. I know Lutro0 has videos but everyone finds their own methods to do things, and all I did was look two pages back and saw nothing but questions so I thought my video may help. Considering I make YouTube videos I thought maybe the quality would be better as well, and as far as promoting myself to avoid a fee for a sleeving business that I do not have is negligible.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerModPCs*
> 
> With information comes knowledge. I know Lutro0 has videos but everyone finds their own methods to do things, and all I did was look two pages back and saw nothing but questions so I thought my video may help. Considering I make YouTube videos I thought maybe the quality would be better as well, and as far as promoting myself to avoid a fee for a sleeving business that I do not have is negligible.


Funnily enough a large number of question are because people don't look at the video sleeving guides or even attempt to read or search anything in any of the threads. The number of repeat questions being asked over and over again is unbelievable.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a video with me mumbling. I used cheap wire strippers and was sloppy with marking the length, so it could have been better accuracy, but I wanted to show how well it can go when using the V of the wings and only clicking once on the crimper. Pretty quick too once you get going.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice vid man. Thanx for posting it. And you only ended up with a little over 1mm of "Egg on your Face" so I'd say SUCCESS


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Nice vid man. Thanx for posting it. And you only ended up with a little over 1mm of "Egg on your Face" so I'd say SUCCESS


Cheers









I measured it again off camera and the wire was 79.1mm so 0.9mm egg. The insulation was exactly 54.0 mm, so that means when crimped the insulation to pin end must be around 12.55mm when using this method. Could make another one to check but have put the tools away now.


----------



## kpoeticg

Between the vid and the explanation you just gave, I'd say you got the method across. Unless you wanna make another one with the mic closer or louder =P


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> the mic closer or louder =P


I'd still mumble though


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> the mic closer or louder =P
> 
> 
> 
> I'd still mumble though
Click to expand...

I thought you have a pleasant voice.


----------



## Lutro0

Update to FAQ.

The Corsair RM Series was added to the "easy to sleeve list" as its one of the easier ones I have seen to date. Infact I bought one just to check the pinout myself.
Quote:


> What Are The Easiest Powersupplies to Sleeve?
> - Lutro0 what powersupply model is the easiest to sleeve?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> I cannot count how many times I get asked that question. Sadly there is not a perfect answer to it as the powersupply list is constantly changing. However there is two series and 1 or two powersupplies that I can most truly recommend.
> 
> But before I do that let me explain what constitutes a bad powersupply and why a powersupply would be better than others (in terms of sleeving).
> 
> When you sleeve a powersupply you want a fully modular powersupply, the reason for this is you can custom make your own cables and not have to open the powersupply and really make the cables fit into your case exactly how you want. This means not having a ton of extra cable behind your case to mess with and only using the number of cables you need to use.
> 
> Why then you ask would any fully modular powersupply be better then another. Two words: Double wires. Anyone who has had to sleeve a double wire will tell you that it is the most aggravating thing about sleeving. That's because you have (should) splice the wire somewhere where it will be hidden so that you only have single wires going into the connector. Now some may try to stuff a double wire into those connectors but this is IMO poor form. When you stuff two wires into the connector beside otherwise single wires the fat double wire look out of place and you lose that symmetrical look of everything being uniform and looking neat. Besides the fact that it's a pain in the butt to get the pin to latch and more than likely it will look bunched. Also when you eliminate the double wires you also get rid of the strange 8pin eps/24pin combos that some powersuppply makers use.
> 
> So the stuff that makes up a good powersupply to sleeve or in other words easier is a fully modular powersupply that does not have double wires (or very few) and has a relatively easy pinout and little to no caps/ferrite beads.
> 
> You may have heard of the term 1 to 1 or 1-1 powersupply. What this implies is that the cables go from one pin to another with no double on the other side. This is also a term for a extension-like pinout.
> 
> So whats a pin out? A pin out in powersupply terms is how the PSU maker electricaly designed the layout for the pins on the powersupply. PSU makers have proprietary set ups on the powersupply side and this is a reason we see all sorts of strange double wires, connectors and the sorts - because it is totally up to the PSU maker to make this how they think it should be and how it can make the PSU more stable. However, on the motherboard side it is always the same as they have to follow the 24pin ATX version 2.0 or the 20pin ATX Version 1.0 standard which is a 24/20 pin layout with the voltages and sense wires always the same. (While we are on this you may notice some powersupplies only using 23 pins with one missing, this is fine as it's still the ATX standard and is not needed and a little Protip is that most of the time including a fake wire for this spot will clean it up and give you a full 24pin once again.)
> 
> Caps and ferrite beads are another huge pain for sleevers. PSU makers add these to keep in spec and to clean up and stabilize the power output from the PSU, in most cases with a good PSU these can be removed with little to no effect. But the chance that they will in extreme settings is always there. (Protip: Ferrite beads can be removed by either breaking them with a hammer or simply sliding them off)
> 
> Now that you have an understanding of what makes a good/easy powersupply to sleeve lets break down a few suggestions and why I recommend them.
> 
> *Corsair AX 1200 / 1200I* -
> Now I know you are already asking why not the rest of the AX series from Corsair. The reason for this is the Corsair AX line is basically a Seasonic PSU / One or two other makers rebranded for Corsair. This means they will follow the 20/10 or the likes pinout with mucho double wires. This means a advanced sleeving time with double wires.
> 
> However the AX1200 / 1200I is made differently, the 1200/1200i uses a 10/14 to 24pin as well as the rest of the cables being single with the exception of maybe a few. This makes it desirable for easy sleeving. Also to boot the unit itself is of good review and is otherwise pure black and ready for any theme with a covering of a custom sticker.
> 
> *Corsair RM Series*
> 
> The Corsair RM series has no double wires on the 24pin and no caps on anything. This to date looks to be one of the easiest Powersupplies to sleeve on the market. Plus the prices for these units are fair.
> 
> *Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid Series ( 1050W, 1300W, 850W)* -
> Once again these powersupplies are of good review and the color scheme is not intrusive for modding and the cables are a 24pin to 24pin as well as the others. Now you will notice some of the cables use the ribbon configuration, this is not a problem as you can simply tear apart the cables once you have started a small cut.
> 
> *Silverstone Strider Gold, Plus, and Evolution Series* -
> I could list all of them but there are many and there is a few in there that still have double wires, so I say this disclaimer that you look up photos of the powersupply and look at the pinout to get a positive double check that yours does not have double wires.
> 
> Typically if the Strider PSU you pick out has a few blue connector sockets on it, then it does not have double wires or very little.
> 
> Most of the Silverstone Striders have positive reviews and for those of us that have been sleeving for a while have done a few of these and are the staple for powersupplies that you intend to sleeve for a mod.
> With the exception of the blue sockets this PSU is great for any color scheme when sleeving. They all use a 24pin to 24pin.
> 
> Something to keep a note of when sleeving these powersupplies is that the pcie lanes have capacitors on them which Silverstone added to reduce electrical noise and to keep the PSU in spec. However you can cut them off with neglitable effect to the power. Please keep in mind that you should make sure that you have some headroom if you intend to cut off the caps and plan on overclocking. What I mean by this is if your system will draw at max 850w then you should consider getting a model that is 150w or more, this way you are not pushing the PSU to its limits thus increasing the chances of your now cappless PSU from effecting your overclock. However I must add that I have been cutting off these caps for a long time now and have NEVER had a client with an overclock issue and I have had many hardcore overclockers buy cables from me or custom units.
> 
> To conclude there is other powersupplies that are out there that might be suitable for sleeving but these are what I have been recommending for a while now and new and experienced sleevers have been very happy with these choices. As more powersupplies come onto the market I will be adding them.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Update to FAQ.
> 
> The Corsair RM Series was added to the "easy to sleeve list" as its one of the easier ones I have seen to date. Infact I bought one just to check the pinout myself.


This is good to know!

I just did a 24-Pin on an EVGA 750g that had no double wires or caps. I know they aren't the best PSUs, but it was pretty easy to sleeve for a first timer.


----------



## lemniscate

I just checked lutroo's site, and it seems like he's out of heatshrink (for heatshrinkless sleeving). is there any good alternative(s)? can anyone recommend me something?


----------



## Big Elf

*MDPC-X* is exceptional for heatshrinkless but too expensive. *Qualtek Electronics Corp. Q2-F3X-1/4-01-QB48IN* from Allied Electronics is OK but not brilliant and it leaves greasy marks on the sleeve.


----------



## lemniscate

I see... but ordering from MDPC just to get the heatshrink wouldn't be cost effective (I know that sleeving costs quite a lot for the first time, but well, I'll save what I can).

I have a few stuffs to order from performance-pcs, so I've been looking into the possibility of getting everything from them and lutroo. it seems they do carry some heatshrinks (akust, mod/smart, bitspower, etc.), what do you think about them?

another option is to wait until lutroo gets his stock back (I might be quite busy for the next few days anyway, so it's not that big of a problem).

and while I'm at it, I might as well ask, how does lutroo's teleios sleeving compare to MDPC's?


----------



## Big Elf

Mod/Smart heatshrink is very good and far better than that from Allied Electronics but in the UK at least it's nearly the same price as MDPC-X.

I was told the the Allied Electronics stuff is the same as Lutro0 used to recommend. I was obviously told wrongly.

I haven't used Teleios but would expect it to be close in terms of quality.

Edit: I'd add that the Mod/Smart black and white heatshrink is very good, they seem to have lost the plot with blue and red.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Mod/Smart heatshrink is very good and far better than that from Allied Electronics but in the UK at least it's nearly the same price as MDPC-X.
> 
> I was told the the Allied Electronics stuff is the same as Lutro0 used to recommend. I was obviously told wrongly.
> 
> I haven't used Teleios but would expect it to be close in terms of quality.


that's good to hear. then I can add the mod/smart heatshrink to my ppcs order, and buy everything else (crimpers, strippers, etc.) from lutroo. thanks a lot, BE.


----------



## Big Elf

Make sure it's the 3:1 ratio heat shrink.


----------



## lemniscate

this is what I plan to get. it says 3:1 shrink ratio.

btw, if I want to do heatshrinkless sleeving, how long should the heatshrink be? I've seen lutroo's video, and I think 25mm is longer than what he used (cmiiw). so I wonder if I can cheap out and cut these precut heatshrinks into two so I can sleeve more cables.


----------



## Big Elf

You need the 1/4", 6mm for heatshrinkless. I cut mine to about 10mm lengths, around 8mm is the shortest length I'm comfortable with. Anything more than that and it's a waste.

25mm is a weird length for pre-cut, 15mm would be better.


----------



## lemniscate

hmm but the only 1/4" mod/smart heatshrink they have are purple and silver... they don't have black ones at that size.

do you know anything about akust heatshrink? they have black 1/4" heatshrink, but it seems like they only shrink to 3 mm (roughly 2:1?). I guess I'll just wait until lutroo gets his stock and order from him. thanks a lot for the help.


----------



## Big Elf

You'll struggle to easily get 3mm heatshrink over the sleeve, most sleeve being 4mm. Possibly the silver (grey) might be similar to the white but I'd just buy a single piece if you're ordering other stuff to test.

I've not used Akust but if it's like the vast majority of generic heatshrink then it won't be very good for doing heatshrinkless and you really need 3:1 shrink ratio.


----------



## lemniscate

I guess that's it then. I'll wait for lutroo's.








I just confirmed that I wouldn't be able to start sleeving until 1-2 weeks later anyway.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> this is what I plan to get. it says 3:1 shrink ratio.
> 
> btw, if I want to do heatshrinkless sleeving, how long should the heatshrink be? I've seen lutroo's video, and I think 25mm is longer than what he used (cmiiw). so I wonder if I can cheap out and cut these precut heatshrinks into two so I can sleeve more cables.


If you want to save on heatshrink, do heatshrinkless without any heatshrink







Best way to do it imo.

Just put the sleeving in the lower part of your flame (this is the 'coldest' part of your flame. The very tip of your flame is the hottest part. With this part, your sleeving will be burned as fast as a motherf**ker!).
Then, watch how your sleeving slowly melts down. Slowly turn your cable to melt down the other part of your sleeving. You will notice that your sleeving will curl to the ourside and become glossy. When this happens, you've hit the sweet point. Your sleeving is now melted and mouldable. Now quickly twisty the melted part of your sleeving with your fingers in a steady motion around your cable. Your sleeving should now be perfectly sealed around your terminal and cable.


----------



## Big Elf

Actually the blue part of the flame is hotter than the yellow tip. There's less/no carbon in the tip of the blue part of the flame which is why it's recommended for heatshrink.

I'd be interested in seeing results of the non-heatshrink method. I know I went through about 20 metres of sleeving trying to get the method down but had inconsistent (poor results) overall. Maybe I should try it again.


----------



## Liradon

I've been using this heatshrinkless method since I started sleeving. I've never used heatshrink for my own cables, and I have it pretty good under control. You can check the results in my sleeving gallery if you like







(but I think you would like to see the part where the sleeving is actually sealed around the cable?)


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Actually the blue part of the flame is hotter than the yellow tip. There's less/no carbon in the tip of the blue part of the flame which is why it's recommended for heatshrink.
> 
> I'd be interested in seeing results of the non-heatshrink method. I know I went through about 20 metres of sleeving trying to get the method down but had inconsistent (poor results) overall. Maybe I should try it again.


Well, I didn't know the explanation about why the blue part was better than the yellow tip, but this should explain why, lol







. Anyway, thanks for pointing that out BE


----------



## Big Elf

I just looked at your sleeving gallery, very good work. Maybe it's my eyesight but isn't that paracord rather than PET sleeve though.


----------



## Liradon

You're right, it is paracord







. But paracord is not much of a difference with PET sleeving if you want to go heatshrinkless. The heatshrinkless method applies for both of these types of sleeving (from personal experience).


----------



## Big Elf

Have you actually tried it with PET sleeving, there's a big difference between that and paracord? It's easy to do heatshrinkless paracord without heatshrink but not PET sleeve which is why I mentioned that after getting through 20 metres (of MDPC-X) I couldn't get it anything close to perfect. I thought someone had actually cracked how to do it


----------



## Liradon

I admit, It's been a while since I've sleeved PET heatshrinkless, but I'll give it a go right now







. Will be back in 2 mins.


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Have you actually tried it with PET sleeving, there's a big difference between that and paracord? It's easy to do heatshrinkless paracord without heatshrink but not PET sleeve which is why I mentioned that after getting through 20 metres (of MDPC-X) I couldn't get it anything close to perfect. I thought someone had actually cracked how to do it


You're right BE. PET is a hell to sleeve without using any heatshrink. I probably did use heatshrink on PET sleeving in my early days (lol).
Should not have doubted a man with (currently) 1729 posts







.


----------



## WiSK

Never doubt the Elf


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Never doubt the Elf


----------



## Lutro0

Sorry about the stock outtage, its back in now.

I have done some pet heatshrinkless without heatshrink - mostly with MDPC or Teleios. However I still prefer to use heatshrink as it makes a better and more accurate tack.

And good heatshrink that is 3:1 OR higher at about 1/4th and a high heat tolerance so it doesnt melt onto onto the sleeve - however there is always a little black on the sleeve but it should be on the part thats hidden.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Sorry about the stock outtage, its back in now.
> 
> I have done some pet heatshrinkless without heatshrink - mostly with MDPC or Teleios. However I still prefer to use heatshrink as it makes a better and more accurate tack.
> 
> And good heatshrink that is 3:1 OR higher at about 1/4th and a high heat tolerance so it doesnt melt onto onto the sleeve - however there is always a little black on the sleeve but it should be on the part thats hidden.


hi lutroo, good to hear that. I might place my order in a few days...

btw, just in case, do you have side-by-side comparison pics between the Teleios sleeving and MDPC sleeving? if possible I'd like to see the Teleios blue and MDPC b-magic. thanks!


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> ...I have done some pet heatshrinkless without heatshrink - mostly with MDPC or Teleios. However I still prefer to use heatshrink as it makes a better and more accurate tack...


Is the Teleios better for doing it without heatshrink? I reckon if I could get my thumb and index finger to feel no pain and stop burning I could get good results with MDPC-X doing it without heatshrink








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> ...And good heatshrink that is 3:1 OR higher at about 1/4th and a high heat tolerance so it doesnt melt onto onto the sleeve - however there is always a little black on the sleeve but it should be on the part thats hidden...


I should have said at least 3:1, I haven't been able to find specifications that give a clue as to heatshrink suitability for this use other than by buying some and trying it out. I had to buy over 150' of the Allied Electronics shrink due to their minimum order quantities for overseas delivery.

Yes, the black is on the hidden bit with the Allied Electronics heatshrink I used but even though it's hidden I don't like it.


----------



## kpoeticg

Lutro, when do i get to order some Red Telios? I've been patiently checking since the 17th


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Is the Teleios better for doing it without heatshrink? I reckon if I could get my thumb and index finger to feel no pain and stop burning I could get good results with MDPC-X doing it without heatshrink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have said at least 3:1, I haven't been able to find specifications that give a clue as to heatshrink suitability for this use other than by buying some and trying it out. I had to buy over 150' of the Allied Electronics shrink due to their minimum order quantities for overseas delivery.
> 
> Yes, the black is on the hidden bit with the Allied Electronics heatshrink I used but even though it's hidden I don't like it.


The Teleios is easier to try it without heatshrink due to the density and weave, and honestly every heatshrink I have used has always left some black behind - but with the Teleios there is less as it needs less heat to melt.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Lutro, when do i get to order some Red Telios? I've been patiently checking since the 17th


It was supposed to be here by then, but I believe its been made and I am just waiting on shipping. I am as anxious as everyone else =)


----------



## jaydoc

Sleeving/Modding newbie with a question. I have a semi-modular Corsair CX750m PSU and a Corsair 200r case. After reading through these pages with tons of information, I have some questions that I hope someone will help me with.

1. Paracord seems like a good choice within my budget, especially since I want to go with a 2-color scheme. But it does not seem to cover data cables, Is there a different kind of sleeving out there that is as cheap as Paracord and looks almost like it that I can use for data cables?

2. Also will I need different widths of sleeving for different wires? or is Paracord expandable to fit the bigger diameter wires?

Thanks


----------



## Liradon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaydoc*
> 
> Sleeving/Modding newbie with a question. I have a semi-modular Corsair CX750m PSU and a Corsair 200r case. After reading through these pages with tons of information, I have some questions that I hope someone will help me with.
> 
> 1. Paracord seems like a good choice within my budget, especially since I want to go with a 2-color scheme. But it does not seem to cover data cables, Is there a different kind of sleeving out there that is as cheap as Paracord and looks almost like it that I can use for data cables?
> 
> 2. Also will I need different widths of sleeving for different wires? or is Paracord expandable to fit the bigger diameter wires?
> 
> Thanks


1. Right now, I don't know of any SATA cable sleeving that looks like paracord. I'm still looking for it though, but since I haven't found any by now, I don't think there is any (for the moment). Maybe this is a good idea for @Lutro0 to bring on the market







!

2. Paracord has a diameter of 4mm. So it will fit over every power cable you'll find in a normal system. Most of the time, sleevers stretch paracord to perfectly fit their cables. So this also indicates that paracord had some 'extras' when it comes to wire thickness







.
Bottom line: You'll be save with paracord for your PSU.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaydoc*
> 
> Sleeving/Modding newbie with a question. I have a semi-modular Corsair CX750m PSU and a Corsair 200r case. After reading through these pages with tons of information, I have some questions that I hope someone will help me with.
> 
> 1. Paracord seems like a good choice within my budget, especially since I want to go with a 2-color scheme. But it does not seem to cover data cables, Is there a different kind of sleeving out there that is as cheap as Paracord and looks almost like it that I can use for data cables?
> 
> 2. Also will I need different widths of sleeving for different wires? or is Paracord expandable to fit the bigger diameter wires?
> 
> Thanks


Paracord is a good choice but due to its size will fit the wires on a PSU but not the SATA Data cables. I haven't come across anything yet that's suitable for use on them but that doesn't mean to say it doesn't exist. However no-ones mentioned anything that I can remember in the last few months.

A good substitute is *Bitfenix sleeved cables* they're decent quality but may not match your paracord colour choice exactly.

Alternatively plain round SATA cables can look OK as this *Murderbox image* shows.

I found out recently that you can get micro paracord in smaller diameters that might be suitable for sleeving the Power/Reset wires going to the motherboard but they seem to be limited colours.

Edit: I was wrong, Micro Paracord from *here* seems to come in a range of colours


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Alternatively plain round SATA cables can look OK as this *Murderbox image* shows.


Link doesn't work for me, you mean this picture?



Aren't those USB cables? Is it a USB splitter box?

The MDPC Sata sleeve around the reservoir seems to indicate regular flat Sata cables.


----------



## Big Elf

Yes, that's the photo, I probably linked to the MDPC-X forum by mistake. Yes, you're right they are USB cables (I had to zoom in in my image editing program) and I've been wrong about them for a long time by the looks of it







I thought it was a SATA backplate. It's one of my favourite photos for the simplicity and style and they are very similar cables to the round SATA cables.


----------



## jaydoc

thanks liradon, big elf and WiSk. i am more than firm on getting the paracord now.


----------



## kpoeticg

The Lutro Coreless Paracord from Lutro0-Customs is great to work with and he has a great selection. Just my


----------



## jaydoc

And that is what I am most likely going to go with. Thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## iamkraine

I've been lurking for a while. This is certainly a great place to learn and enjoy yourself.

Thanks to this forum and you guys I have custom cut, crimped and sleeved 24 pin and 8 pin eps cables.

Please tell me, by looking at these pictures, if my custom cables are acceptable to use on hardware.

Results from my custom made cables:


Results with original cables:


----------



## socketus

umm. yah, that I dunno bout. At first I was gonna say "those aren't cables", but I get it - electrical values. Looks pretty close tho !


----------



## WiSK

ATX spec says +/- 5% voltage, so those numbers are fine


----------



## Big Elf

...and the PG (*P*ower *G*ood Delay) is between 100-500ms so that's also OK.


----------



## IronDoq

Howdy folks! I've been rethinking a case-overhall, moving from my Switch to a 900d/SM8. Still have to decide on that. BUT! I have decided that I want to pick up a new PSU and custom sleeve all of the cables. Looks much cleaner (albiet I do like how my bitfenix extensions look) and makes things easier to route.

I was thinking of picking up this Silverstone PSU. 1000w, fully modular, and, from what I understand, *no double wires*.

I've been planning to sleeve everything with heatshrinkless paracord, and because I'm cheap, I'll be going with the basic $3/25ft from lutro0's store. My cart so far has the molex extractor, the paracord threader, and blue, grey, and white 550 paracord. Should I also get the round pin extractor, is that something i'll need?

My main question here is how much paracord I'm going to actually need. I ask this because I don't know the cable lengths of the silverstone PSU, and was hoping someone here would. I plan on doing blue and white as the main colors, with grey as an accent here and there.

Thoughts?


----------



## socketus

found the lengths of that silverstone psu at a review site

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/silverstone_strider_gold_evolution_1000w_review,2.html

Connectors
1 x 24 / 20-Pin Motherboard connector （550mm）
1 x 8 / 4-Pin EPS / ATX 12V connector （750mm）
1 x 8 / 4-Pin EPS / ATX 12V connector （550mm）
4 x 8/6-Pin PCIE connector （550mm）
2 x 6-Pin PCIE connector （550mm / 150mm）
8 x SATA connector （600mm / 150mm / 150mm/150mm）
6 x 4-Pin Peripheral connector （600mm / 150mm / 150mm）
2 x 4-Pin Floppy connector （600mm / 150mm / 150mm / 150mm）


----------



## Liradon

Thanks to Socketus, you can now do the math







add another 10%, just to be sure and to have a margin of error and you have your length you need.


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *socketus*
> 
> found the lengths of that silverstone psu at a review site
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/silverstone_strider_gold_evolution_1000w_review,2.html
> 
> Connectors
> 1 x 24 / 20-Pin Motherboard connector （550mm）
> 1 x 8 / 4-Pin EPS / ATX 12V connector （750mm）
> 1 x 8 / 4-Pin EPS / ATX 12V connector （550mm）
> 4 x 8/6-Pin PCIE connector （550mm）
> 2 x 6-Pin PCIE connector （550mm / 150mm）
> 8 x SATA connector （600mm / 150mm / 150mm/150mm）
> 6 x 4-Pin Peripheral connector （600mm / 150mm / 150mm）
> 2 x 4-Pin Floppy connector （600mm / 150mm / 150mm / 150mm）


*hug* I love you. Have some +rep.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> Thanks to Socketus, you can now do the math
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> add another 10%, just to be sure and to have a margin of error and you have your length you need.


Noted, will do! Thanks guize


----------



## JackNaylorPE

It sure would be convenient to have a simple table on the underside of my toolbox lid.

Cable Function - Wire gauge - Sleeve Dia. - Heatshrink Dia - Wire Strip Length - HS Length (not visible) - HS Length (Visible)

I know that as soon as I scour all the threads to make one, Big E is gonna point me to where it already exists.


----------



## smartguy044

nice write up Lutro0 very useful. Ill be sleeving my wires as soon as my order comes in from your site







keep up the good work


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smartguy044*
> 
> nice write up Lutro0 very useful. Ill be sleeving my wires as soon as my order comes in from your site
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> keep up the good work


Thanks for the compliment!


----------



## Lutro0

Hey guys, just wanted to give you a heads up - I have done a little tweaking every so often but I will be sitting down and giving some sections a complete rewrite!

Thanks for your patience as this is a ongoing project.

If you have any suggestions please ask!


----------



## Lynchie

Haven't been able to actually find an answer to this (and yes i know it would vary for everyone) but firstly, how long does it take an amateur to fully sleeve a psuu. and secondly, how long would it take a professional?


----------



## kpoeticg

I'm pretty sure it takes everybody hourssssssssssss . I can only personally speak from the amateur category tho....

Also, it varies by more than just the person. One person can have 10x more cables to sleeve for their system than another. Different GPU's and PSU's have a huge difference when it comes to sleeving.
There's GPU's that run off a 6-Pin connector, & there's GPU's that have 2 8Pin's & a 6Pin. A 1600W PSU is gonna have alot more cables than a 650W PSU. Some people have 2 HD's & some people have 10. Those are all HUGE differences when you're sleeving.

If you're planning for your first time sleeving like i recently did, you're gonna spend a few hours learning how to crimp. If your PSU has dbl & triple wires in any of the pins, that's gonna add more time both sleeving & learning, also time learning how to solder if you don't know how.

I don't have alot of experience, but after you spend some time watching video's & reading tutorials, you can expect to probly bang out a 24Pin throughout the course of a night if you're watching tv & messing around.

Asking how long it takes an average person to sleeve a PSU is similar to asking how long it takes an average person to drive to New York without having any other info. How long it takes to sleeve like a 24Pin or an 8Pin would be a better baseline

I know i'm making it sound complicated, but it's not hard to learn if you're willing to spend some time. But like i said, IMO after you've already spent some time on just learning, you can expect to bang out a 24Pin throughout a night of watching tv & browsing around on OCN

Good luck


----------



## Lynchie

Thanks heaps. sorry about the vague question, i was afraid of being to specific and not getting a response. thouggh your reply was more than helpful. mainly just wanted to clear it up cause my mate thinks it would take someone weeks. looks like ill be able to show him up quicker than i thought


----------



## PraetorXyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Sorry about the stock outtage, its back in now.
> 
> I have done some pet heatshrinkless without heatshrink - mostly with MDPC or Teleios. However I still prefer to use heatshrink as it makes a better and more accurate tack.
> 
> And good heatshrink that is 3:1 OR higher at about 1/4th and a high heat tolerance so it doesnt melt onto onto the sleeve - however there is always a little black on the sleeve but it should be on the part thats hidden.


Lutro0, the sleeving FAQ says the MDPC-X heatshrink is still the best, but the reviews I'm seeing of the Teleios sleeving keep saying it's better than MDPC-X sleeving.

Will the Teleios sleeving work with MDPC-X heatshrink?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PraetorXyn*
> 
> Lutro0, the sleeving FAQ says the MDPC-X heatshrink is still the best, but the reviews I'm seeing of the Teleios sleeving keep saying it's better than MDPC-X sleeving.
> 
> Will the Teleios sleeving work with MDPC-X heatshrink?


Yes it will!


----------



## kpoeticg

Telios works great for Heatshrinkless too. Just thought id add that....


----------



## PraetorXyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Telios works great for Heatshrinkless too. Just thought id add that....


I think Heatshrink looks a lot better personally.

I'm not sure I'll be able to do it because of my vision. If I try it I'll have to pick up a 20x desktop magnifier.

I was going to try to contract Lutro0 or Martin to sleeve my PSU for me, but there's just too much other stuff to sleeve.
Fans, fan controllers, the wiring for the Lamptron anti vandal power switches, any other miscellaneous wiring.

I'm too OCD to have the naked wires or the nylon sleeving that comes on things.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PraetorXyn*
> 
> I think Heatshrink looks a lot better personally.
> 
> I'm not sure I'll be able to do it because of my vision. If I try it I'll have to pick up a 20x desktop magnifier.
> 
> I was going to try to contract Lutro0 or Martin to sleeve my PSU for me, but there's just too much other stuff to sleeve.
> Fans, fan controllers, the wiring for the Lamptron anti vandal power switches, any other miscellaneous wiring.
> 
> I'm too OCD to have the naked wires or the nylon sleeving that comes on things.


If you're going to use heatshrink it's well worth buying *Lutro0s Sleeving Tool* as it's a great help in lining up the sleeve and heatshrink and makes a difficult task manageable.

I'm nearly blind in one eye and have lost a lot of sight in the other but still manage to sleeve *OK* although I can now only sleeve a few wires at a time rather than the full cable extension sets I used to knock off in a day.


----------



## PraetorXyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> If you're going to use heatshrink it's well worth buying *Lutro0s Sleeving Tool* as it's a great help in lining up the sleeve and heatshrink and makes a difficult task manageable.
> 
> I'm nearly blind in one eye and have lost a lot of sight in the other but still manage to sleeve *OK* although I can now only sleeve a few wires at a time rather than the full cable extension sets I used to knock off in a day.


If I attempt it myself I'll pretty much be buying everything Lutro0's got as far as tool's go. If I make a go of it, I'll do everything properly and crimp my own wires etc.

My vision is 20/200 because of my albinism. My eyes have no pigment, so the corneas are perfect, but the retinas never got the chance to develop.


----------



## HeyBear

Hey guys, quick question ( hopefully)

I'm looking to place an order with E22 soon, however they seem to be out of the Lutro0 16awg wire in black. I sent an email through their contact form a couple of days ago although I'm yet to hear back from them with regards to when it might be back in stock.

I'm planning to go heatshrinkless using the Teleios sleeve, would mixing 16awg white and 18awg cable be a terrible idea with regards to making everything neat?

Alternatively, I could go for 18awg for both white and black, would that be a better option even though I'm going for heatshrinkless?

There's also the option of holding out a little longer to see if I can get the 16awg in black, I've got the Christmas holidays coming up though and thought it would be a perfect time to try my hand at this sleeving lark..









On a slightly unrelated note, I was going to get around 90m of 16/18 awg and 30m of 22awg wire, I haven't underestimated how much I will need have I? (it's going in a 900D)


----------



## Big Elf

I never get an answer from E22 either using the contact form on the website. I initially assumed he was away but after 3 weeks I guess he doesn't prioritise them (or his message system isn't working).

You would notice a difference between the different wire gauges. Assuming he's selling the same wire as Lutro0 (and it isn't clear that he is) then the 16AWG is about 2.3mm in diameter and the 18AWG is 1.8mm in diameter. After sleeving you would notice the difference so ideally stick to one size.

Alternatively you can use the metric equivalent of 18AWG which is 24/0.2. and works out cheaper if bought from Farnells or Rapid.

I think you've perhaps overestimated how much you'll need. Use the PSU manufacturers lengths and multiply by the number of wires then add a bit on for wastage and the extra length needed for the case.


----------



## HeyBear

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> I never get an answer from E22 either using the contact form on the website. I initially assumed he was away but after 3 weeks I guess he doesn't prioritise them (or his message system isn't working).
> 
> You would notice a difference between the different wire gauges. Assuming he's selling the same wire as Lutro0 (and it isn't clear that he is) then the 16AWG is about 2.3mm in diameter and the 18AWG is 1.8mm in diameter. After sleeving you would notice the difference so ideally stick to one size.
> 
> Alternatively you can use the metric equivalent of 18AWG which is 24/0.2. and works out cheaper if bought from Farnells or Rapid.
> 
> I think you've perhaps overestimated how much you'll need. Use the PSU manufacturers lengths and multiply by the number of wires then add a bit on for wastage and the extra length needed for the case.






Thanks Big Elf, you've been a great help







+REP for your troubles.

I think the wires listed at E22 are Lutro0's, at least that appears to be the case from the description. I wasn't positive what the metric equivalent was and how it would go if I got some so thanks for the suggestion.

By the looks of things, the Rapid wires seem to be cheaper. Have you tried the heatshrinkless method with these? If so, did they cause any trouble?

I would like to try and train them, but I can always sew them to neaten them up so it shouldn't be too much of a problem.

One last question, would the equivalent 22AWG fan wires be 7/0.25?


----------



## Big Elf

I mainly use *this* and *this* Rapid wire which is about 2.3mm thick and excellent for training and give no problems with heatshrinkless. However it's too thick to use as dual wires on Molex/Auxiliary cables so I use 2.1mm diameter wire from Farnells for that. However Farnells seem to have changed the specification so I'll need to track down another source for it.

I use 7/0.25 for fan wires without problem.


----------



## Nathanation

So I'm struggling a bit with my 1st attempt at cable sleeving. I have now learnt I need to draw a diagram or take a pic of pin locations before I take them out....
So I have 6 pin Atx cable that powers my gfx card.
It has 3 yellow cables and 3 black. The blacks are all ground according to
diagrams I've seen online.
Now originally the black cables crossed over each other. I.e. top left pin goes to top middle pin at the other end of the cable.
So my question is can I just go top left to top left so they don't cross over and look neater?


----------



## Big Elf

As long as you match 12v to 12v and Ground to Ground it doesn't matter so yes you can do what you suggest.


----------



## Nathanation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> As long as you match 12v to 12v and Ground to Ground it doesn't matter so yes you can do what you suggest.


Ah great I thought that was the case but just wanted to double check. Thank you.


----------



## davcc22

might try to sleeve a pciexprees power cable


----------



## Ouro

So I'm getting ready to really get my feet wet with PC building and customization.

I've had my first build for a couple months and with it I bought those Corsair sleeved cable kits. Needless to say that quality on those cables leaves much to be desired and I am looking at making my own set of custom length cables on my spare time.

Right now Im using a Design R4 and I estimate I'll need about 125 feet of paracord since I want to go with a White/Black/Grey/Blue theme on the cabling.

First question, can I reuse all of the pins/caps/connectors that came with the original PSU cables or will I have to buy a whole new set of them?

I have read and watched a few tutorial videos but before I make any purchases I would like other more experienced people to review my list.

75 ft of White Paracord
25 ft of Black Paracord
25 ft of Grey Paracord
25 ft of Blue Paracord
75 ft of White 18 AWG wire
50 ft of Black 18 AWG wire

Molex Extractor
4-pin extractor
Wire Strippers
Crimping Tool


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> First question, can I reuse all of the pins/caps/connectors that came with the original PSU cables or will I have to buy a whole new set of them?


You can't reuse the pins, so you'll have to get new of those. I have no idea about lengths


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> You can't reuse the pins, so you'll have to get new of those. I have no idea about lengths


Gotcha, so I'll have to buy those too.

What about grounds, 12v, and all of the different kinds of connection? Will using the 18awg wire be enough or will there be other things I'll have to do to insure I don't fry anything? Haven't really found an informative guide on custom length cables and the dangers of mucking it up.


----------



## kpoeticg

18AWG is what most people use for custom cables. It can definitely handle anything PC related


----------



## WiSK

Copper AWG 18 is absolutely fine electrically. Even when sleeved it can handle 14 amps or more without overheating. Any problem would come from the pins themselves which are rated only 6 amps.


----------



## cpachris

yep. I use 18AWG for everything except fans, and I prefer 22AWG for those.


----------



## Ouro

So is it taboo to buy paracord from amazon? The stuff there is considerably cheaper than the paracord available on other more popular sites. Specifically looking at the stuff from these guys.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> So is it taboo to buy paracord from amazon?


Paracord isn't just used for sleeving PSUs. It's short for parachute cord and is used in many hobbies as well as jumping out of planes. You might find it cheaper still locally in a military surplus store. Look for Paracord _Type III_ or _550_.


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Paracord isn't just used for sleeving PSUs. It's short for parachute cord and is used in many hobbies as well as jumping out of planes. You might find it cheaper still locally in a military surplus store. Look for Paracord _Type III_ or _550_.


Yeah I know but I just wanted to make sure I wasn't buying something notoriously bad for this specific application.

I'm just about ready to begin just waiting for lutro0 to get some molex tools in.

I have a vacation coming up this month and I'm almost tempted to ditch my girlfriend so I can immerse myself in the sleeving and sewing.

I swear at this point I probably spend more time looking at PC mods than I do using my gaming PC for actual gaming.


----------



## ARacoma9999

This is a really silly question, and I apologize if its already been answered previously, but this is basically all that's stopping me from starting my project. My question is if I were to take a 12v rail from my PSU and plug it into a spot in a SATA connecter that's normally reserved for a 5v rail, will I end up frying my hard drives? Or will the specific spot in the connector only be able to put out 5v from the 12v that's being supplied to it from the PSU?


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> This is a really silly question, and I apologize if its already been answered previously, but this is basically all that's stopping me from starting my project. My question is if I were to take a 12v rail from my PSU and plug it into a spot in a SATA connecter that's normally reserved for a 5v rail, will I end up frying my hard drives? Or will the specific spot in the connector only be able to put out 5v from the 12v that's being supplied to it from the PSU?


----------



## hakz




----------



## ARacoma9999

Rofl, thanks for breaking it to me with humor. So how am I suppose to make a cable that goes from PSU to hard drives with SATA connectors?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> This is a really silly question, and I apologize if its already been answered previously, but this is basically all that's stopping me from starting my project. My question is if I were to take a 12v rail from my PSU and plug it into a spot in a SATA connecter that's normally reserved for a 5v rail, will I end up frying my hard drives? Or will the specific spot in the connector only be able to put out 5v from the 12v that's being supplied to it from the PSU?


This sounds a bit confused. Your PSU supplies many different voltages and you need to connect the appropriate wires together. They can't be mixed around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Rofl, thanks for breaking it to me with humor. So how am I suppose to make a cable that goes from PSU to hard drives with SATA connectors?


You are trying to make a simple SATA power cable?

Which PSU do you have?


----------



## ARacoma9999

I have the NZXT HALE 82 750w, but I just recently did some reading on VRMs and I think I answered my question. I think the best way to reword my question is that will on a 12v rail, will 12v be constantly be put out or will there be some sort of mechanism that tells it the appropriate voltage the peripheral needs and that 12v is merely the MAX that it can put out, and that it's not constantly spitting out 12 v.

Unless I read that wrong and you can clear it up for me.


----------



## ARacoma9999

Also, I'm trying to make those inline SATA power cables, the ones that have multiple connectors all neat and lined up.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> I have the NZXT HALE 82 750w, but I just recently did some reading on VRMs and I think I answered my question. I think the best way to reword my question is that will on a 12v rail, will 12v be constantly be put out or will there be some sort of mechanism that tells it the appropriate voltage the peripheral needs and that 12v is merely the MAX that it can put out, and that it's not constantly spitting out 12 v.


VRMs are a whole different story.

Voltage is delivered at a fixed rate to a device. A 12V line from the PSU will deliver 12V. The device better be able to handle it









Current (amps) is variable. The device draws as much as it needs.


----------



## ARacoma9999

So, if I were to make a cable from scratch. Say, it had a 6 pin aux peripheral connector that plugs into the PSU which powers this inline SATA cable, if I wire it according to layouts, I won't be giving my hard drives too much voltage? The hard drives will determine how much voltage is needed and that's that? Everything should run fine, right? Nothing blowing up or getting Falcon punched?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> if I wire it according to layouts, I won't be giving my hard drives too much voltage?


Yes, if you wire it according to the pin out, then you will be giving the HDs the correct voltages.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> The hard drives will determine how much voltage is needed and that's that?


Well no. Which wires you attach where determines how much voltage the HDs are getting. The hard drive circuitry (probably) doesn't do any regulation of it's own. The circuit board runs at 5V, the platter motor runs at 12V. Those pins need to get the right delivery from the PSU.

I tried to look at a review of the Hale82, but couldn't quite see the pinout from JonnyGuru's pictures. If you follow the wire colours on your stock cabling : 12V=yellow, 5V=red, ground=black, then you should have no trouble.


----------



## ARacoma9999

I think...the hardest thing I'm trying to explain is...how do I follow the stock wiring if I'm building the cable from scratch? Because from what I used to think, and from what I understand now, wires don't determine the voltage of the rail, that's already determined in the PSU. I know they color code it so you can tell which wire is which voltage, but if I were to follow that same layout those stock wires were in with my own black wires, would that be okay? Thanks for helping me out so much, I know this is a really noob question


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> I think...the hardest thing I'm trying to explain is...how do I follow the stock wiring if I'm building the cable from scratch? Because from what I used to think, and from what I understand now, wires don't determine the voltage of the rail, that's already determined in the PSU. I know they color code it so you can tell which wire is which voltage, but if I were to follow that same layout those stock wires were in with my own black wires, would that be okay? Thanks for helping me out so much, I know this is a really noob question


Yes you can use your own black wires to replace the coloured wires. The colours are indeed there as a guidance for which wire is connected to which voltage.

To put your mind at ease, perhaps a PSU tester would be a good investment when making your own cabling...


----------



## ARacoma9999

Luckily I have a PSU tester. Thank you so much for all your help


----------



## Hesselberg

I am a bit confused when it comes to the cables: I've read the tips that Lutro0 has given in the first post in this thread, but still. I though 18AWG or AWG 18 had an standard outer diameter of 2.3mm, or is it the 0.75mm^2 that is the standard for AWG 18 cables, and that the insulation around the cable is variable?

EDIT: I'm thinking about making my own extensions.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hesselberg*
> 
> is it the 0.75mm^2 that is the standard for AWG 18 cables, and that the insulation around the cable is variable?


Yes.

AWG 18 is actually something more like 0.81mm2, but in Europe we don't have this size, so 0.75mm2 is ample. It can carry more amperes than the pins we attach to it.

Indeed the insulation is variable. It comes in different diameters, different flexibility, different thermal properties, etc.


----------



## Hesselberg

So is an AWG 18 cable with diameter 2.3mm the ideal sleeving-wire? Sorry for the dumb question, but I see Lutro0 on his web store that he writes "Don't use this when that" and "Use this when that" and "Thin cable", and so on..


----------



## Big Elf

You can get good result 'training' wire that's around 2.3mm in diameter but sometimes, depending on the case layout, you might need a bit more flexibility to get the wires from the PSU to the motherboard/components and find that 2.0-2.1mm diameter wire is more suitable.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hesselberg*
> 
> So is an AWG 18 cable with diameter 2.3mm the ideal sleeving-wire? Sorry for the dumb question, but I see Lutro0 on his web store that he writes "Don't use this when that" and "Use this when that" and "Thin cable", and so on..


I can't speak for Mike. Some people prefer thick, some thin. I tried plenty of sizes, and found some nice soft 2.2mm stuff that I like now.


----------



## Lutro0

Yup basically what everyone here said it comes down to preference.

The wire I have in my shop is what I have found to work the best for all of my jobs. But everyone has their own preference.

Thanks for the quick answers guys!


----------



## Hesselberg

How thick is the "thin"-version of the AWG 18 in your shop, Lutro0? Is it great for the MDPC-sleeving?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hesselberg*
> 
> How thick is the "thin"-version of the AWG 18 in your shop, Lutro0? Is it great for the MDPC-sleeving?


It is 0.08 IN for the Outer Diameter. This allows for easiest sleeving of heatshrink style possible. I wont use any other wire personally. Because that wire allows me to get the best end result with ease.

That wire and MDPC HS and MDPC Sleeving or Teleios Sleeving is perfect for heatshrink style sleeving.

Now if you want to go heatshrinkless then 16awg custom or standard is both a great wire to use and for any sleeve!


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yup basically what everyone here said it comes down to preference.
> 
> The wire I have in my shop is what I have found to work the best for all of my jobs. But everyone has their own preference.
> 
> Thanks for the quick answers guys!


Any ETA on when you will get the Molex Extractors in? I'm ascared to buy it from anywhere else.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Any ETA on when you will get the Molex Extractors in? I'm ascared to buy it from anywhere else.


We are waiting on the shipment to come in. Chinese New Year has us slowed down. But its close to being done.


----------



## ARacoma9999

Hey Lutro0, I've been trying to get in contact with anyone from your shop/group/gang (lewl) and I figured I might as well try here, too. I was wondering when you guys would be back in stock with more 6pin aux power connectors? Any help will be mucho appreciated


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Hey Lutro0, I've been trying to get in contact with anyone from your shop/group/gang (lewl) and I figured I might as well try here, too. I was wondering when you guys would be back in stock with more 6pin aux power connectors? Any help will be mucho appreciated


Shoot me an email @ [email protected] and I







may be able to find you one in stock


----------



## ARacoma9999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Shoot me an email @ [email protected] and I
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> may be able to find you one in stock


Oh, I saw that you had two left, but the store won't let me order just those two, I have to have an order of at least 20 bucks. Or is there a way to bypass that through you?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Oh, I saw that you had two left, but the store won't let me order just those two, I have to have an order of at least 20 bucks. Or is there a way to bypass that through you?


Shoot me an email and I will take care of it for ya,


----------



## ARacoma9999

Awesome, thanks for the super fast response!


----------



## Sadfez

Quote:


> Corsair RM Series
> 
> The Corsair RM series has no double wires on the 24pin and no caps on anything. This to date looks to be one of the easiest Powersupplies to sleeve on the market. Plus the prices for these units are fair.


I'm a bit confused. Perhaps my understanding of double wire is wrong, but Corsair RM-series seems to have two wires going into '13' on the 24pin. Isnt that considered a double wire?
I really want to avoid connecting those two by soldering and I have done everything up until now heatshrinkless. Don't see how it's going to fit in there nicely.

Edit: RM 550 and 650 are the ones I got.


----------



## Lutro0

Yup that is double wire and yes the soldering and a tiny bit of hs is the best and most accepted method. if you do it in a hidden spot no one will see it. But if you try to cram both of those pins in the connector it will look ugly.


----------



## Sadfez

Shoot! Thought I were on the safe side when I bought those two Corsair RM supplies. Oh well, better get to work then.

Wish I were better with the soldering iron.

Edit: I know this probably ain't the prettiest solution, but how about using a 3 way terminal crimp or a solderless quick splice terminal, anybody tried to use that?
With the right color and close to the psu it would be well hidden. Guess any small female to male connector could be used aswell.


----------



## Lutro0

New Protip added to the FAQ on Softness and or Type of Wire to Buy for Sleeving!
Quote:


> Pro Tip #003 Use PVC Wire Instead of Silicone Or Other Soft Wire Insulators.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> *Pro Tip #003:*
> 
> _People have asked me many times on what type of wire they should use and I have found a trend in people thinking that they need to get silicone wire or a very soft insulation on their wire to be able to route them better or for fear of having their sleeved cables be to stiff.
> 
> The truth of the matter is flexibility or softnes is a huge misconception in sleeving and really the opposite is true.
> 
> In my opinion and in my experience you want wire that is stiff and that can be trained to hold its shape when you sleeve it. This way it will hold up and be able to be showcased in a nice route when its all done.
> 
> Silicone wire for sleeving is terrible. Its overly flexible and the terminals are crimped into a soft material and don't feel as sturdy.
> 
> Its really hard to get a wire that is too stiff, as you will always be able to twist and route the cable, but from my experience the stiffer the wire after its sleeved the better for training. Now obviously using solid wire would be going to far and you still would want to use a stranded wire with a insulation that can accept a terminal crimp and wont be brittle.
> 
> This is why I offer a specific wire on my shop even though wire can be found in allot of places, a good wire with a proper diameter and good insulation is hard to find if you don't know what to look for. For more specifics on what type and diameter of wire to purchase please refer to the question: What Type Of Wire Do I Buy - in the Sleeving FAQ_


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sadfez*
> 
> Shoot! Thought I were on the safe side when I bought those two Corsair RM supplies. Oh well, better get to work then.
> 
> Wish I were better with the soldering iron.
> 
> Edit: I know this probably ain't the prettiest solution, but how about using a 3 way terminal crimp or a solderless quick splice terminal, anybody tried to use that?
> With the right color and close to the psu it would be well hidden. Guess any small female to male connector could be used aswell.


This is totally doable as well!


----------



## Ouro

Do you guys still use 550 paracord for heatshrinkless fan sleeving?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Do you guys still use 550 paracord for heatshrinkless fan sleeving?


The sleeving that ensourced used is simply a paracord that has a thinner diameter than 550.

There is a sleeving one small step size down from 550 sometimes called 450 and then this smaller size is often called 350, small, or mini sized paracord.

Its a little harder to find but if you do some googling you will come across it.


----------



## Ouro

One more post before all my stuff comes in:thumb:.

How can I go about making custom length SATA *data* cables? I've found a few videos and guides on power cables but no luck on the data cables. Can I just use 16/188 awg cables and the pin/connector?


----------



## iamkraine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> One more post before all my stuff comes in:thumb:.
> 
> How can I go about making custom length SATA *data* cables? I've found a few videos and guides on power cables but no luck on the data cables. Can I just use 16/188 awg cables and the pin/connector?


I didn't think that was possible. I just bought different lengths to match the distance I wanted.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> One more post before all my stuff comes in:thumb:.
> 
> How can I go about making custom length SATA *data* cables? I've found a few videos and guides on power cables but no luck on the data cables. Can I just use 16/188 awg cables and the pin/connector?


Here's my tutorial using the Akasa ProSlim cables


----------



## Ouro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> Here's my tutorial using the Akasa ProSlim cables


Thank you very much!


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> One more post before all my stuff comes in:thumb:.
> 
> How can I go about making custom length SATA *data* cables? I've found a few videos and guides on power cables but no luck on the data cables. Can I just use 16/188 awg cables and the pin/connector?


Get some of these then you can cut your cable to the required length, sleeve it, and finish off with the DIY. FrozenCPU has them, too.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Get some of these then you can cut your cable to the required length, sleeve it, and finish off with the DIY.


Have you tried those? Do the pins need to be soldered? Seems easier to stick with the Akasa ProSlims


----------



## Minusorange

Just curious on you guys opinion of the Bitfenix Alchemy series of cables ? Are they worth the money or would it be more economical (and fun if you like creative things) to do it all yourself ? In UK so would like to know how much cheaper £'s it would be doing it myself


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Just curious on you guys opinion of the Bitfenix Alchemy series of cables ? Are they worth the money or would it be more economical (and fun if you like creative things) to do it all yourself ? In UK so would like to know how much cheaper £'s it would be doing it myself


The Bitfenix extensions are reasonable quality and better than most mass produced ones.

You're not likely to be able to make your own extensions or cable sets much cheaper as you have to factor in the cost of tools and you need to buy in bulk to make savings on sleeve, wire, heatshrink, pins etc. However making your own cable sets means you control the quality and can make them to custom lengths and choose your own blend of colours. If you're making up cable sets for a number of PSUs then the tool cost become less of a factor.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Have you tried those? Do the pins need to be soldered? Seems easier to stick with the Akasa ProSlims


Mine haven't arrived yet, but I think they probably will need soldering.

Something which did finally arrive today - and which looks like it may change my entire plan - was ModDiy's gold sleeving. Here it is on Red Black and Yellow cables and here we go with the question about whether mono-color cabling is really such a good idea.


----------



## Ouro

Another question (they're endless!)

So I'm writing the pinout of my cables and I noticed that the Corsair factory sleeved cables have two wires with one crimp. Will it be safe for me to replicate this with the crimper from lutro0's shop?









I was supposed to receive my stuff today but the mailman hasn't come yet


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> Another question (they're endless!)
> 
> So I'm writing the pinout of my cables and I noticed that the Corsair factory sleeved cables have two wires with one crimp. Will it be safe for me to replicate this with the crimper from lutro0's shop?


The tidy way to deal with those dual wires is to 



 them


----------



## Himo5

Notice how splicing, untwisting and standardising gauges to deal with divergences from 1-to-1 cabling is the equivalent of moving the connector at the motherboard end of the cable close to the PSU and turning the rest of the cable into an extension.


----------



## longroadtrip

Deleted...


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The Bitfenix extensions are reasonable quality and better than most mass produced ones.
> 
> You're not likely to be able to make your own extensions or cable sets much cheaper as you have to factor in the cost of tools and you need to buy in bulk to make savings on sleeve, wire, heatshrink, pins etc. However making your own cable sets means you control the quality and can make them to custom lengths and choose your own blend of colours. If you're making up cable sets for a number of PSUs then the tool cost become less of a factor.


Cheers for the info I knew they were good just didn't know how good vs price vs DIY they were. Kinda fancy getting into cabling as a hobby and a little money earner on ebay


----------



## ARacoma9999

Hey Lutro0, I was wondering: Is there ever a chance you're gonna take off that 20.00 minimum on the site? I know it's only 20.00 but sometimes I don't find myself needing that much in materials. I had previously asked you about 6pins, and how you only had two left and that I couldn't check out because I didn't meet the 20.00 minimum. I contacted you here, to which you told me to e-mail you, which I did, which I never got a response to, which I'm not berating you for it, I completely understand you're an insanely busy dude. But yeah, figured I'd ask you here since I've had better luck here than on your Facebook or through e-mails. Hope to hear from you soon!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Hey Lutro0, I was wondering: Is there ever a chance you're gonna take off that 20.00 minimum on the site? I know it's only 20.00 but sometimes I don't find myself needing that much in materials. I had previously asked you about 6pins, and how you only had two left and that I couldn't check out because I didn't meet the 20.00 minimum. I contacted you here, to which you told me to e-mail you, which I did, which I never got a response to, which I'm not berating you for it, I completely understand you're an insanely busy dude. But yeah, figured I'd ask you here since I've had better luck here than on your Facebook or through e-mails. Hope to hear from you soon!


Hey no problem, Sorry that we lost your email somewhere.

Shoot me a pm and I will give you my direct contact info so we can get you those connectors.

About the min order, we had it in place so that we could keep up with orders and so that everyone would be able to get fast service. However we have implemented a full time shipper now and we have been discussing lowering the order min. So expect it to be changed here soon.

Thanks!


----------



## Ouro

So I'm having problems crimping my wires. The left side of the terminal keeps breaking off.


http://imgur.com/W6DrG

 Using the lutro0 Customs crimper and terminals.

edit: problem fixed by moving die over. Yay back to testing my patience.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> So I'm having problems crimping my wires. The left side of the terminal keeps breaking off.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/W6DrG
> 
> Using the lutro0 Customs crimper and terminals.
> 
> edit: problem fixed by moving die over. Yay back to testing my patience.


Awesome to hear you got it fixed.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Have you tried those? Do the pins need to be soldered? Seems easier to stick with the Akasa ProSlims


Finally arrived and I can now answer your question. They're crimps, but you either need a mighty expensive tool to work them with or an electron microscope!

Perspective:


A Connector:


A pin:


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Finally arrived and I can now answer your question. They're crimps, but you either need a mighty expensive tool to work them with or an electron microscope!


Thanks for getting back on this. I'm guessing there is a tool specifically for those. It would have to crimp them all at once.


----------



## Himo5

Yep. Place the cable in the tool; the tool finds 8 wires, finds 7 pins, places 8 wires in 7 pins at correct position, finds 28 crimp prongs, crimps the prongs and gives you back the cable - but only if you pay it $10!!


----------



## WiSK

NSIS, but if the RJ45 crimpers can manage it, I don't see why not.


----------



## Himo5

I wish you were right, but I don't think so.


----------



## WiSK

Oh well. Get electron microscope then


----------



## Ouro

So I'm putting on the cable combs I got from lutro0 in the mail today and I begin unpinning the sleeved cables. I'm guiding the combs over the cables when I notice there is blood in one spot on the paracord, and in another, and another, and another. I was about ready to post my work and I ruined it! Those terminals are sharp!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ouro*
> 
> So I'm putting on the cable combs I got from lutro0 in the mail today and I begin unpinning the sleeved cables. I'm guiding the combs over the cables when I notice there is blood in one spot on the paracord, and in another, and another, and another. I was about ready to post my work and I ruined it! Those terminals are sharp!


Ouch!









I've had blood stains on sleeved cables before. Soak the whole cable in soapy water, then let dry in the sun for a day.


----------



## Demonprince

So I just finished sleeving a 24 pin connector and the missing wire is really throwing me off.
Anyone know of a clever way to fake it? Or can I just put a wire in it?


----------



## kpoeticg

Just put a wire in it

There's no pin on the male headers so there's nothing for it to mess up


----------



## Demonprince

I checked the PSU and the MOBO and they both have a male pin where the missing one is on the modular 24 pin cable.
Would making that connection cause issue?


----------



## kpoeticg

Dunno, i wasn't expecting there to be one, but i just checked my mobo and it also has the pin. Do you have a Meter you can test the pin with?

It shouldn't have any signal or voltage coming out of it, but it couldn't hurt to check it with a multimeter

Place the the black prong on one of the Ground Pins and the red prong on the "Empty Pin"


----------



## koutamarto

Hey guys, is any one able to tell me the difference between the MDPC sleeving and the Teleios Sleeving @Lutro0 sells, and how see through is Lutro0's Teleios?

Cheers


----------



## Demonprince

I just used the Teleios here in this picture. I had to put white electrical tape on the wires because they are black. If you look at the wire second from the left you will see where I did not get the tape all the way to the top of the wire.

Edit: Also I did not tape the purple wires. They are still black underneath.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonprince*
> 
> I checked the PSU and the MOBO and they both have a male pin where the missing one is on the modular 24 pin cable.
> Would making that connection cause issue?


Most of the time the psu still has connections for this wire and adding it doesnt cause any issues, however if you are having issues I would remove this to start the troubleshooting and then go back through your pinout.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koutamarto*
> 
> Hey guys, is any one able to tell me the difference between the MDPC sleeving and the Teleios Sleeving @Lutro0 sells, and how see through is Lutro0's Teleios?
> 
> Cheers


This is all answered in the FAQ, but the short answer Teleios is made to be more dense then MDPC.

If you use black teleios on a white wire it will cover the wire completely if sleeved right.


----------



## koutamarto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonprince*
> 
> I just used the Teleios here in this picture. I had to put white electrical tape on the wires because they are black. If you look at the wire second from the left you will see where I did not get the tape all the way to the top of the wire.
> 
> Edit: Also I did not tape the purple wires. They are still black underneath.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> This is all answered in the FAQ, but the short answer Teleios is made to be more dense then MDPC.
> 
> If you use black teleios on a white wire it will cover the wire completely if sleeved right.


Guys thanks for the advice so far. Ive just sorted out my Cart on Lutro0's and its come in @ around $230 which im stoked with. So I thought b4 I order my gear I would have a close look @ my PSU and see what im dealing with. I have the Corsair HX850. I want to sleeve the 4 attached cables (24pin, CPU & 2x PCIE) and it didnt take me long to hit a snag. At a closer inspection the 24pin has a handfull of wires that are a smaller diameter in size than the majority. I need to admit here that my confidence is easily broken and I immediately thought the job was too hard and I wont bother doing it. But I have been so excited for so long to do this after some consideration I decided I had 2 options- Either sleeve the cables as they are (either upto the PSU or into the PSU- I hadnt decided yet) or to open up the PSU and replace the smaller wires with wires to match the other existing ones. So after a nights sleep I decided to open up my PSU and see if unsoldering and re-soldering new wires was a viable option for me(I basically have no experience with soldering but was planning to start learning) Unfortunately after a look in there I do not believe removing these wires is an option for me (mainly because im scared I will stuff it up and access to some of the wires is very limited)

Now to my question.........

I have heard Lutro0 say that having 2 different sized wires sleeved will look funny, what would any of the Old Pros on here recommend? Is replacing the wires like I mentioned even possible and if so would u suggest this course, or just sleeve what is already in place and have it look a bit funny?

Also is this the best place to post this sort of question?

Thanks in advance
Mat


----------



## Demonprince

Don't get discouraged it was my first time as well and I have had a lot of fun with it. My 24 pin had 2 different sizes also and after sleeving I couldn't honestly tell you which ones they are. You should just give it a try and see how it looks to you.


----------



## 7Mine7

Hi

trying to do my first sleeving job ,, but the problem is that i have seasonic X-850 which from what i heard and see is pain to deal with :\

i'm having Red Betfinex extension right now but i'm not satisfied at all beside that i want to do somthing about the mess in the back of the case

i have couple of worries about my PSU especially the PCI-E cables which looks strange and i don't know what to do with them ! ( see the attached photo )



i have GTX780ti ( reference ) so i'm using 8 pin + 6 Pin ,, so what i should do with these extension hanging from the card connector ?! i don't know whats the point from them in the first place ! can i just take them away ?! if anyone have a guide or reference for such thing please let me know how

i just want clean and simple 8 pin + 6 pin showing in my case !

also i'm planning to get all my stuff from Lutro0 store ,, so is the ( LC Custom Molex Extractor ) enough to do all the job for the MOB + PCI + 4 pin + 3 pin fans ?!

thanks in advance


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7Mine7*
> 
> Hi
> 
> trying to do my first sleeving job ,, but the problem is that i have seasonic X-850 which from what i heard and see is pain to deal with :\
> 
> i'm having Red Betfinex extension right now but i'm not satisfied at all beside that i want to do somthing about the mess in the back of the case
> 
> i have couple of worries about my PSU especially the PCI-E cables which looks strange and i don't know what to do with them ! ( see the attached photo )
> 
> i have GTX780ti ( reference ) so i'm using 8 pin + 6 Pin ,, so what i should do with these extension hanging from the card connector ?! i don't know whats the point from them in the first place ! can i just take them away ?! if anyone have a guide or reference for such thing please let me know how
> 
> i just want clean and simple 8 pin + 6 pin showing in my case !
> 
> also i'm planning to get all my stuff from Lutro0 store ,, so is the ( LC Custom Molex Extractor ) enough to do all the job for the MOB + PCI + 4 pin + 3 pin fans ?!
> 
> thanks in advance


Those are there to give extra functionality like if you needed 2 6pins you can just plug in the 2 6pin parts and same with 2 8pins.

You may clean these up anyway you want - my suggestion is that you depin each one cable at a time and use a flush cutter and cut off only the part you dont want as close to the crimp as possible. PLEASE make sure you dont cut off something you need - but it is straight forward. Also make sure that you put them back in the same spots.

I hope that helps.


----------



## 7Mine7

Quote:


> Those are there to give extra functionality like if you needed 2 6pins you can just plug in the 2 6pin parts and same with 2 8pins.
> 
> You may clean these up anyway you want - my suggestion is that you depin each one cable at a time and use a flush cutter and cut off only the part you dont want as close to the crimp as possible. PLEASE make sure you dont cut off something you need - but it is straight forward. Also make sure that you put them back in the same spots.
> 
> I hope that helps.


Thanks Lutro0

that helped ,, that means that i need to sleeve only 1 PCI-E cables and use the both connector for the GPU ( depend if i sleeved it correctly )

you think i should have additional cripms just in case or there is no need ?!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7Mine7*
> 
> Thanks Lutro0
> 
> that helped ,, that means that i need to sleeve only 1 PCI-E cables and use the both connector for the GPU ( depend if i sleeved it correctly )
> 
> you think i should have additional cripms just in case or there is no need ?!


I would use two cables as those are super hard to get clean looking due to the double wires and the two cables would show off the sleeving better and yes always have some terminals laying around just in case.


----------



## abirli

has anyone used this shrink? SFTW-203-1/4-BLACK

i want to buy in bulk bc i sleeve a lot


----------



## Big Elf

This is the *heatshrink* I use, but only as sacrificial shrink for doing heatshrinkless sleeving.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> This is the *heatshrink* I use, but only as sacrificial shrink for doing heatshrinkless sleeving.


yeah i would be using it for heatshrinkless. ill check them out


----------



## Graphicharbour

@ Lutro0, could you please contact me through pm, regarding
a order I just received from you thanks.....


----------



## Blze001

Lutro0, I saw you did an eVGA Hadron Air PSU for TimmyTechTV, any tips for the DIY sleever regarding that particular PSU? It's going to be my first sleeving attempt, so I'm thinking I might want to finish the sleeve and heatshrink before the wires enter the PSU so I don't have to pop it open.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Graphicharbour*
> 
> @ Lutro0, could you please contact me through pm, regarding
> a order I just received from you thanks.....


Will do!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> Lutro0, I saw you did an eVGA Hadron Air PSU for TimmyTechTV, any tips for the DIY sleever regarding that particular PSU? It's going to be my first sleeving attempt, so I'm thinking I might want to finish the sleeve and heatshrink before the wires enter the PSU so I don't have to pop it open.


The Hadron Psu is a hard psu to OEM sleeve due to the small ammount of space given to hide the cables. We ended up having to dremel out the hole and double custom wire part of the internals just to get it to work for timmytechs application. If you can I suggest reducing the cables and then using extensions, as that would make for a much easier time. However if you are determined to go for a full oem type - keep in mind that this will be a indepth project that cannot just be thrown together. You will need to plan everything out before you start sleeving.


----------



## Blze001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> The Hadron Psu is a hard psu to OEM sleeve due to the small ammount of space given to hide the cables. We ended up having to dremel out the hole and double custom wire part of the internals just to get it to work for timmytechs application. If you can I suggest reducing the cables and then using extensions, as that would make for a much easier time. However if you are determined to go for a full oem type - keep in mind that this will be a indepth project that cannot just be thrown together. You will need to plan everything out before you start sleeving.


I can probably get rid of either the SATA cable or one of the Molex cables. For the rest, are you suggesting I shorten the ones coming out of the PSU a good bit, then use a custom-length extension cable to between the PSU cables and the part in question?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blze001*
> 
> I can probably get rid of either the SATA cable or one of the Molex cables. For the rest, are you suggesting I shorten the ones coming out of the PSU a good bit, then use a custom-length extension cable to between the PSU cables and the part in question?


Yes, otherwise be prepared to do a good bit of modding to the psu and wireing.


----------



## Majorhi

I received an order from you a few weeks back to sleeve a few cables, SATA and front panel wires. Can I just say the sleeving you provided was excellent! My finished handy work is in my build log. Pay no attention to the backside of the case, it needs some work. I have a couple orders coming soon and I am gonna tackle a cx600m. If I could have afforded it I would have went with fully modular. Thanks again!


----------



## Liradon

Is it safe to sleeve SATA power cables by sleeving the entire cable and just 'plugging' them back in the SATA connectors?
I think it's safe to do this with nylon sleeving, but what about paracord? Is paracord conductive? Is there any danger of (now don't start laughing at me) fire?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liradon*
> 
> I think it's safe to do this with nylon sleeving, but what about paracord? Is paracord conductive? Is there any danger of (now don't start laughing at me) fire?


Paracord is made of nylon, so are all the connectors used in PCs. Completely non-conductive.


----------



## Phazeshifta

Hey Lutro0,

Is there a secret to getting the Teleios heatshrink to melt inwards instead of outward when I'm closing the ends of the cable? Every time I try, the fray always melts and gets bigger instead if tightening up like I want.


----------



## Big Elf

Are you using heatshrink? It makes it a lot easier if you do. If you are are you using heatshrink with a shrink ratio of at least 3:1?


----------



## Lutro0

The Sleeving a non-modular PSU section has been updated and Pro-tip 4 has been added!


----------



## avielcs

hi all
I've started sleeving a while ago using Lutro0's stuff and just now started doing some fan extension cables.
I'm having trouble putting the female fan terminal into the connector.
does any know if there's a specific way of going at it?
Terminals just don't go in unless force is used, when they do go in I cant seem to put the male connector in.

thanks
Aviel


----------



## kpoeticg

The female fan terminals go in like a triangle facing upside-down. The little tab on the flat part is what holds it in place through the holes at the top of the connector.

They get bent out of shape pretty easily. I usually straighten em out every time i need to take em out/put em in a connector.

Make sure you have the triangle pointing down and if you still have to force it, tighten it up a little bit. The top should be completely flat/straight with the little tab sticking out enough to keep it in the connector.


----------



## avielcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> The female fan terminals go in like a triangle facing upside-down. The little tab on the flat part is what holds it in place through the holes at the top of the connector.
> 
> They get bent out of shape pretty easily. I usually straighten em out every time i need to take em out/put em in a connector.
> 
> Make sure you have the triangle pointing down and if you still have to force it, tighten it up a little bit. The top should be completely flat/straight with the little tab sticking out enough to keep it in the connector.


I'll try that
Thanks


----------



## avielcs

BTW it only happens with lutro0's connectors


----------



## kpoeticg

NP. The triangle could just be loosely formed in the terminals you have. Like i said, i usually straighten out the pins every time i remove em or crimp em. Just used to it.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> BTW it only happens with lutro0's connectors


How long ago did you get your connectors or terminals from us, we have gotten different versions of both now. I will gladly send the new ones free of charge. =)


----------



## avielcs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> How long ago did you get your connectors or terminals from us, we have gotten different versions of both now. I will gladly send the new ones free of charge. =)


Hi sorry for the late reply, i got them on february.
I must say that this forum and the people here are one of the main reasons i started modding.
BTW i first started at sleeving using Lutro0 stuff and wasn't trying to suggest any thing about the quality of the product, your product were always the best and of course the customer service is amazing.
So big thanks, and thank you for offering to send me more connectors, i really appreciate it.

I will be making another order soon and will pm you.

Again, big thanks

Aviel


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avielcs*
> 
> Hi sorry for the late reply, i got them on february.
> I must say that this forum and the people here are one of the main reasons i started modding.
> BTW i first started at sleeving using Lutro0 stuff and wasn't trying to suggest any thing about the quality of the product, your product were always the best and of course the customer service is amazing.
> So big thanks, and thank you for offering to send me more connectors, i really appreciate it.
> 
> I will be making another order soon and will pm you.
> 
> Again, big thanks
> 
> Aviel


Glad I could help!


----------



## ARacoma9999

Hey, I've been trying to find a guide on how to make in line SATA power cables and I can't seem to find anything thorough. Is there anyone that could help explain how to do it? I can't even seem to push the wire into the SATA pass through terminals.


----------



## Big Elf

There's 'How To Sleeve Sata Pass-Through or Crimp Style Power Connectors?' on page 1?


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> Hey, I've been trying to find a guide on how to make in line SATA power cables and I can't seem to find anything thorough. Is there anyone that could help explain how to do it? I can't even seem to push the wire into the SATA pass through terminals.


You might find the additional thoughts on pass-through Sata Power cables also useful starting from this post onwards in the *Heatshrinkless sata power?* thread.


----------



## ARacoma9999

Okay cool, thanks, I wasn't able to find any other threads that had any advice


----------



## ARacoma9999

And its not the question of if I know how to do it, its the question of whether or not I'm using the wrong gauge wire or something not included in that guide.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ARacoma9999*
> 
> And its not the question of if I know how to do it, its the question of whether or not I'm using the wrong gauge wire or something not included in that guide.


Molex Sata Power recepticles should use 18 AWG

I think it's this part http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0887614700_CABLE_ASSEMBLIES.xml


----------



## ARacoma9999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Molex Sata Power recepticles should use 18 AWG
> 
> I think it's this part http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0887614700_CABLE_ASSEMBLIES.xml


Awesome, thank you


----------



## abirli

does anyone know the real names for the connectors? or places to buy them in bulk


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> does anyone know the real names for the connectors? or places to buy them in bulk


The part number for the crimp style connector is Molex 67582-0000.
Punch down connector is 67926-0001
End Cap is 67926-0041
Feed through Cap is 67926-0040

I only buy 20 or so at a time so can't suggest any particular place to buy them although I do know you need to buy at least 1000 to get somewhere near a reasonable price. I suppose you should be able to find cheap copies on eBay.

Edit: In the case of the punch down connectors the copies are often better than the Molex ones which seem a bit fragile.


----------



## all3z

Hey, I have a Seasonic X-650 KM3 PSU that I want to sleeve. What I've heard it's hard to sleeve because of the double wires i found this and I was wondering if it would fit my PSU?

Anyone here that got this psu sleeved and can answer or give me other tips?

Also how does the AWG affect the cable, what AWG is the stock cables? Could I just buy some wire with the correct AWG and solder them to get a similar thing?


----------



## Big Elf

It's not particularly hard to sleeve although you might struggle getting the pins out. That splitter wire would work providing all your other wires are similar length, colour and have the same orientation in the connectors. The SeaSonic uses a mix of 18AWG and 16AWG wires but 18AWG is sufficient for the majority of the cables. The exception would be if you have a lot of hard drives on a SATA power cable or a number of high power draw components on the 4 pin Molex cables. In that case you may need to split the components between 2 or more cables.

You can make up your own cables but you need to read through the *FAQs*. The vast majority of questions on 'how to' can be found in the *video guides*


----------



## all3z

You linked the double sleeving guide instead of the FAQ









Hmm, I guess it would be almost as easy to make the double wires to get them the correct length.

I was thinking of making the 24pin/PCI-e/8pin cpu. Are those all 18 AWG or is these mixed too? I think I can manage to sleeve the Molex/SATA/etc. w/o making new wires. Anyway they're barely visible anyway so it won't make much of a difference.

Also do you know of a guide to sleeve the 8 pin to double 6+2?

Thanks


----------



## Big Elf

Fixed the link to FAQs, thanks. How many GPUs do you you have and what connectors do they use? If 1 or 2 GPUs then you can make up your own cables and use 2 of the connectors on the PSU for each card leaving 1 connector for the CPU/EPS. If one or more connectors is an 8 pin PCI-E then you'd have to splice one Ground wire on each connector following Lutro0s splicing video guide.


----------



## all3z

I'm not really sure what you said there but anyways.

I have one GTX 780 and it's connected with a 8 pin to double 6+2. My GPU uses 8 and 6 pin so I'd like to get rid of those extra two also.


----------



## Ovrclck

For the sata cables heatshrink. I'm looking for white pre-cuts:

Mod/Smart Perfect Cut Heatshrink 1/2" x 25mm - 50 Pack - White (HS-1/2-W-25mm)
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15961/slv-322/ModSmart_Perfect_Cut_Heatshrink_12_x_25mm_-_50_Pack_-_White_HS-12-W-25mm.html?tl=g35c179s1674
will these work? Thanks guys!


----------



## Big Elf

It's a little bit longer than the 15mm I would use but it's the right width. I've used ModSmart heatshrink and while it's not as good as MDPC-X it's pretty good for 3:1 shrink. I still use MDPC-X though because, in the UK at least, it costs either the same or slightly more.


----------



## Ovrclck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's a little bit longer than the 15mm I would use but it's the right width. I've used ModSmart heatshrink and while it's not as good as MDPC-X it's pretty good for 3:1 shrink. I still use MDPC-X though because, in the UK at least, it costs either the same or slightly more.


I would go with MDPC myself but would rather try to find something local to me. You're correct, the length is a tad too long for my taste. Thanks man!


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Alright I've got my MPDC sleeving on the way and I'm looking for advice on how best to sleeve my *PSU*.

I know that my two options are to either sleeve up until where the cables enter the PSU or void the warranty and open up the PSU to sleeve the entire lengths of the cables. What I'm looking for is advice from those who've done it both ways to chime on what you'd recommend. My PSU will be pretty much completely hidden except for my MB, CPU power, and GPU power cables showing around the MB area (I have a Case Labs S3 with standard window so everything below the MB tray is hidden).

I've never sleeved anything before so just looking for some good pointers and direction for what may be the easiest way to go given my case. Thanks.


----------



## Big Elf

Easiest way if you have the space to hide the excess cabling is to create extensions.


----------



## PuffinMyLye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Easiest way if you have the space to hide the excess cabling is to create extensions.


Would you have the same recommendation if the PSU was fully modular?


----------



## Big Elf

No, fully modular and I'd suggest you make up your own cables.


----------



## MalsBrownCoat

Of course, just my luck that I would _finally_ be ready to start my sleeving project, only to find that the two major suppliers of what I need are no longer taking orders.

*facepalm*

Unfortunately, I may need to go with FrozenCPU and pick through the scraps now. But before I place an order with them, I have some questions. There's just too many posts to weed through, but if I missed an obvious post with all of these details, feel free to call me out on it and refer me there.

1. I've seen some threads scattered here and there and I'm confused about which exact pins that I should use (something about OEM pins, gold vs non, and proper wing sizes). Some details of which to order would be helpful. Is there a link to either FrozenCPU or PerformancePCs with the right models?

2. Just how many pins (male or female) and what type that I will need for sleeving a Corsair AX860i?

3. If anyone knows the cumulative length of sleeving that I should buy, that would be fantastic (I'm not able to measure all of the cables right now and I really need to get this order put in asap).

4. What about sleeving the pins from the case to the motherboard? Such as the fan headers, power switch, reset switch, power led, hard drive led, etc. Does anyone do that?

Suggestions are welcome. Thanks everyone. This community is extremely helpful and the efforts are appreciated.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> does anyone know the real names for the connectors? or places to buy them in bulk


Right now I am taking personal bulk orders for connectors and such but being I am moving shops its depending on the order. Shoot me an PM and I will see if I can help you.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MalsBrownCoat*
> 
> Of course, just my luck that I would _finally_ be ready to start my sleeving project, only to find that the two major suppliers of what I need are no longer taking orders.
> 
> *facepalm*
> 
> Unfortunately, I may need to go with FrozenCPU and pick through the scraps now. But before I place an order with them, I have some questions. There's just too many posts to weed through, but if I missed an obvious post with all of these details, feel free to call me out on it and refer me there.
> 
> 1. I've seen some threads scattered here and there and I'm confused about which exact pins that I should use (something about OEM pins, gold vs non, and proper wing sizes). Some details of which to order would be helpful. Is there a link to either FrozenCPU or PerformancePCs with the right models?
> 
> 2. Just how many pins (male or female) and what type that I will need for sleeving a Corsair AX860i?
> 
> 3. If anyone knows the cumulative length of sleeving that I should buy, that would be fantastic (I'm not able to measure all of the cables right now and I really need to get this order put in asap).
> 
> 4. What about sleeving the pins from the case to the motherboard? Such as the fan headers, power switch, reset switch, power led, hard drive led, etc. Does anyone do that?
> 
> Suggestions are welcome. Thanks everyone. This community is extremely helpful and the efforts are appreciated.


Take your time. Rushing your first sleeving order won't help anything









1. You want tall / long wings. Avoid ConnectX and Phobya. Neither of those stores you mention seems to have them at reasonable prices. These links have the correct type PPCs and FCPU.

2. Depends how many cables you want to make. 32 pins for the motherboard (ATX24+EPS8), then count the pins on your GPU(s) and double it; then count the pins for Sata. Get some extra in case of mistakes.

3. Your PSU manual has the lengths of each cable listed. Add 20% if it's your first time sleeving.

4. Yes we do that. You need Dupont pins


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Right now I am taking personal bulk orders for connectors and such but being I am moving shops its depending on the order. Shoot me an PM and I will see if I can help you.


I went direct thanks


----------



## Himo5

Has anyone tried the gold plated long winged minifits from design4paragon?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> I went direct thanks


No problem, let me know if there is anything I can help with.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Has anyone tried the gold plated long winged minifits from design4paragon?


Gold plated really dont make much difference except for cost most of the time. We sell the regular tinned female terminals that have the long wings and haven't seen any difference electrically with the gold plated vs the usual ones.

Basically just make sure the terminals have the long wings and don't cost too much and you will be fine.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Has anyone tried the gold plated long winged minifits from design4paragon?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Gold plated really dont make much difference except for cost most of the time. We sell the regular tinned female terminals that have the long wings and haven't seen any difference electrically with the gold plated vs the usual ones.


The reason gold plated pins exist is mostly for when the environment could be corrosive. Like if you live near the sea.


----------



## Himo5

- or get variations in humidity close to the dew point around water cooled systems - or have design issues with Asus gold motherboards.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The reason gold plated pins exist is mostly for when the environment could be corrosive. Like if you live near the sea.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> - or get variations in humidity close to the dew point around water cooled systems - or have design issues with Asus gold motherboards.


Yup you are both right, I should have added that part as I always forget it - thanks guys.

We have sent many of cables out to seaside homes and to some major overclocking benches and have not seen corrosion yet - however I am sure if the conditions where more extreme - and just because we havent seen it doesnt mean it doesnt happen.


----------



## qndrm

Question:

I have a crimper, albeit not a very good one but its all I have to hand at the minute.

When I go to crimp the long wings it doesn't curl the wings into the heart shape. Most of the time it ends up snapping one wing off and the other hugs the cabe somewhat.

Is this a case of buy a better crimper or is there a quick method of calibration I can do just to improve the crimp?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qndrm*
> 
> When I go to crimp the long wings it doesn't curl the wings into the heart shape. Most of the time it ends up snapping one wing off and the other hugs the cabe somewhat.
> 
> Is this a case of buy a better crimper or is there a quick method of calibration I can do just to improve the crimp?


In the first post, the section "Which Crimpers & Pins Do I Buy?" shows the model names of the crimpers than can do the "heart shape" properly.

Nils' and Mike's stores are both closed at the moment, but for the UK you can get either the MDPC-X crimper here or the Lutro0 crimper here.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> In the first post, the section "Which Crimpers & Pins Do I Buy?" shows the model names of the crimpers than can do the "heart shape" properly.
> 
> Nils' and Mike's stores are both closed at the moment, but for the UK you can get either the MDPC-X crimper here or the Lutro0 crimper here.


I think your link to the MDPC crimper may not be the best option - It looks like its not milled.

The crimper on its own with no modification is unusable and will crush the crimps, I found this out when I first started working on them. However I dont have that great of a photo in the link - so I hope very much he did some customizing to it. Hopefully he will update the description to show the work he did on it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I think your link to the MDPC crimper may not be the best option - It looks like its not milled. The crimper on its own with no modification is unusable and will crush the crimps. However I dont have that great of a photo in the link - but its a pretty good guess lol I just dont want anyone to buy a useless tool.


Mike, I've thought about this a lot since you posted. I find this kind of response from you rather disappointing. I know it's a cut-throat business, the sleeve modding scene. Some propaganda is necessary to elevate your product above other similar products. I understand, you need to put bread on the table.

I don't want to pick sides. It's not my battle. I've made a point of it over the last year or so. There was a time when I was firmly in the MDPC camp - as you were too. Now, as much as I admire Nils as a person, I know he's just running a shop. The products are fantastic, but he has a marketing strategy. And as much as I admire your efforts and success to bring sleeving to the masses, and your products are spot-on, I know you are just running a business too. You are passionate about it, and that's great. Keep that focus, make it work.

But leave Marek alone. He sells less of those crimpers in a year than you do in a day. He's an honest guy. He's no threat.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Mike, I've thought about this a lot since you posted. I find this kind of response from you rather disappointing. I know it's a cut-throat business, the sleeve modding scene. Some propaganda is necessary to elevate your product above other similar products. I understand, you need to put bread on the table.
> 
> I don't want to pick sides. It's not my battle. I've made a point of it over the last year or so. There was a time when I was firmly in the MDPC camp - as you were too. Now, as much as I admire Nils as a person, I know he's just running a shop. The products are fantastic, but he has a marketing strategy. And as much as I admire your efforts and success to bring sleeving to the masses, and your products are spot-on, I know you are just running a business too. You are passionate about it, and that's great. Keep that focus, make it work.
> 
> But leave Marek alone. He sells less of those crimpers in a year than you do in a day. He's an honest guy. He's no threat.


Wisk I appreciate the response, but I am saying what I said simply from experience. I hope very much that he sells many of them as there is plenty of customers everywhere.

But my heart has never been about the money but about getting the right tools into the sleevers hands - I am terribly sorry if my comment came off any way else.

I do everything I can including giving advice and providing sources to any upcoming company that asks for help and I always will. I was simply stating that the tool without some milling and some work will not work at all for sleeving. He only included 2 pictures and says that its the MDPC crimper - this is not true as Nils as well as I both mill our crimpers as each of us sees to be perfect. And I dont want to see someone purchase a pricey tool that will not work unless it has been worked on.

Calling it the MDPC crimper without it actually being it - is not the greatest way to go about it.

I hope he makes it and I would totally be willing to help him in any fashion should he ask. And again if I came across as any other way I apologize - I just want to get the best tool into the sleevers hands as possible and when I see something that will not work or has been labeled wrongly - I have always chosen to say something. Not for my own profit but for the benefit of all sleevers.


----------



## Yey09

Anyone tried to compare the Mod Bunker conduit sleeve and the LC Teleios Sleeve?

Both of them are available in modbunker.com and just 0.25 cents difference.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Anyone tried to compare the Mod Bunker conduit sleeve and the LC Teleios Sleeve?
> 
> Both of them are available in modbunker.com and just 0.25 cents difference.


The conduit sleeve is a great sleeve for heatshrinkless style, if the colors available meet your needs and you want to go heatshrinkless its a great option.

LC Teleios sleeving is meant for both HS and HSless sleeving and has a coverage like no other sleeve. Its super easy to work with and most people who use it want to continue using it due to the ease of use.

Both are available at modbunker and the rest of the LC supplies will be available there as well.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> The conduit sleeve is a great sleeve for heatshrinkless style, if the colors available meet your needs and you want to go heatshrinkless its a great option.
> 
> LC Teleios sleeving is meant for both HS and HSless sleeving and has a coverage like no other sleeve. Its super easy to work with and most people who use it want to continue using it due to the ease of use.
> 
> Both are available at modbunker and the rest of the LC supplies will be available there as well.


Hey Lutro0, first time sleever here







. How's the shop move doing?

Which of the two is smoother to the feel specially when your pulling/stretching it over the cable?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Anyone tried to compare the Mod Bunker conduit sleeve and the LC Teleios Sleeve?
> 
> Both of them are available in modbunker.com and just 0.25 cents difference.


Conduit is much stiffer in comparison. Teleios is smaller looking. Sleeving the cable is essientally the same. Teleios might be a little easier


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> Conduit is much stiffer in comparison. Teleios is smaller looking. Sleeving the cable is essientally the same. Teleios might be a little easier


Thanks!

That's what I thought when looking at the images on the modbunkers site between the conduit and teleios, the conduit seems more rougher to the feel.

How about the MDPC, is it smoother than the Teleios?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> That's what I thought when looking at the images on the modbunkers site between the conduit and teleios, the conduit seems more rougher to the feel.
> 
> How about the MDPC, is it smoother than the Teleios?


Mdpc looks better IMO. The weave is more pronounced and just looks cooler. Sleeving with mdpc is not as easy as conduit or teleios bc you have to really stretch the mdpc sleeve to have ideal coverage..

To me it's not what's easiest, it's what looks the best to my eyes


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> Mdpc looks better IMO. The weave is more pronounced and just looks cooler. Sleeving with mdpc is not as easy as conduit or teleios bc you have to really stretch the mdpc sleeve to have ideal coverage..
> 
> To me it's not what's easiest, it's what looks the best to my eyes


Have any idea when is the MDPC site will be up?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yey09*
> 
> Have any idea when is the MDPC site will be up?


Sadly I don't know when it will be up but I can promise you that you will enjoy teleios sleeving. If there is a pattern you want let me know.


----------



## Yey09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Sadly I don't know when it will be up but I can promise you that you will enjoy teleios sleeving. If there is a pattern you want let me know.


I've sent you a PM a while back but no answer, I know your busy with moving stuff.

Which of the blue colored sleeves are UV reactive?


----------



## MalsBrownCoat

Lutro0,

How do you recommend sleeving all of the motherboard pin headers? My Corsair 780T has an undgodly amount of headers that need to go to the motherboard and various other connections. The wires are very thin though and it seems like even the smallest Telios sleeving would be too big, especially to do a heatshrinkless method. Do you have a guide/suggestions for that?

Thanks.


----------



## MalsBrownCoat

/ping Lutro0

Or anyone else who might be able to provide some details. I need to make an order this week for the right materials, so any help is appreciated.

Thanks all.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MalsBrownCoat*
> 
> Lutro0,
> 
> How do you recommend sleeving all of the motherboard pin headers? My Corsair 780T has an undgodly amount of headers that need to go to the motherboard and various other connections. The wires are very thin though and it seems like even the smallest Telios sleeving would be too big, especially to do a heatshrinkless method. Do you have a guide/suggestions for that?
> 
> Thanks.


I usually sleeve each header whole, so the two wires of the power switch go in one sleeve then I use glue and heatshrink to keep it in place.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MalsBrownCoat*
> 
> Lutro0,
> 
> How do you recommend sleeving all of the motherboard pin headers? My Corsair 780T has an undgodly amount of headers that need to go to the motherboard and various other connections. The wires are very thin though and it seems like even the smallest Telios sleeving would be too big, especially to do a heatshrinkless method. Do you have a guide/suggestions for that?
> 
> Thanks.


It depends on the diameter of the wire insulation, but the usual method is to put 3, 4, or 5 wires together in one sleeve.

Some people use Sata sized sleeve to do all 9-10 wires at once, but I find that it's often to loose like this. On the other hand, Sata-sized heatshrink does fit nicely over a USB or Audio connector (the 10-pin dupont connectors).


----------



## MalsBrownCoat

Thanks WiSK & abirli,

So it sounds like I'll need to use the heatshrink (as opposed to the shrink_less_) method), if I'm going to have to do multiple wires in one sleeve, since each pin needs to go to its own header on the mb.

I was really trying to avoid this look:


And go for something more along the lines of this (on the right):


I've also seen these, but again, I don't think Telios comes in this diameter:


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MalsBrownCoat*


you can very easily sleeve the front headers, and make it look nice with heatshrink.

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/Leon/IMG_1489_zps7d93de2c.jpg.html

http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/Leon/IMG_1493_zps0820c094.jpg.html

i've seen some micro paracord fit in the fan header connectors before.


----------



## Kenshiro 26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MalsBrownCoat*
> 
> I've also seen these, but again, I don't think Telios comes in this diameter:


What size of heatshrink is required for the individual wires on the motherboard headers? Or was this done by the manufacturer?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> http://s37.photobucket.com/user/abirli/media/Leon/IMG_1493_zps0820c094.jpg.html


What size of sleeving did you use for the USB 3.0 cable? Also how did you get the sleeve onto it?

I want to shorten the USB cable in my current build then sleeve it.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> What size of heatshrink is required for the individual wires on the motherboard headers? Or was this done by the manufacturer?
> What size of sleeving did you use for the USB 3.0 cable? Also how did you get the sleeve onto it?
> 
> I want to shorten the USB cable in my current build then sleeve it.


For those motherboard headers you need AWG22-26, so sleeve that stretches down to 1.0-1.2mm or so. Heatshrink would be 3mm 3:1

For shortening the USB3 read the guide http://www.overclock.net/t/1340389/guide-how-to-solder-your-own-usb2-0-3-0-cables


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MalsBrownCoat*
> 
> Lutro0,
> 
> How do you recommend sleeving all of the motherboard pin headers? My Corsair 780T has an undgodly amount of headers that need to go to the motherboard and various other connections. The wires are very thin though and it seems like even the smallest Telios sleeving would be too big, especially to do a heatshrinkless method. Do you have a guide/suggestions for that?
> 
> Thanks.


Sorry for the late response,

I am assuming you are talking about the front headers and such and allot of cases now adays have a ton of new and neat features built in which adds on some work for sleevers.

You have noticed that the wire is indeed smaller so single sleeving the positive and the negative of a on/off switch is not possible with conventional or well any that I know of any how. So I normally group them together per their function. I have been able to sleeve 2 single pins together - however heatshrink will be needed for stuff like that. I have found that if you take your time and try to cleanly sleeve it in groups that it comes out pretty good.

I have also used custom connectors to redo the headers which will involve crimping the correct pins and such, however most can get away without having to do that.

If there is anything specific I can help with please feel free to pm me!


----------



## morper

Im just about to make some custom cables from scratch for the first time and when I started looking at my oem 6+2 pin PCI-E cables I see that the cables crossover each other alot. Can I safely switch one 12v cable to another 12v pinout position, and the same with ground cables? It would clean the cable up alot if its possible...

Tnx,
morper


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morper*
> 
> Im just about to make some custom cables from scratch for the first time and when I started looking at my oem 6+2 pin PCI-E cables I see that the cables crossover each other alot. Can I safely switch one 12v cable to another 12v pinout position, and the same with ground cables? It would clean the cable up alot if its possible...
> 
> Tnx,
> morper[/quote
> 
> Yes you can change one 12v for another


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Hey folks, what is an effective and easy way to measure the lengths of cable needed for each component? Are there are any nifty methods to use that curtail the need to remove any current cable management that you have installed so the machine can continue to function until the new cables are ready to be installed?


----------



## Praz

Hello

I'm assuming that most terminals purchased are the Molex 18-24 AWG type or equivalent. I use Molex high current terminals spec'd for 16 AWG and the bare wire crimp part of the terminal is slightly larger than that of the 18 - 24 AWG terminal. My Molex branded crimper has disappeared and to hold me over till I get another one I was going to purchase one of Lutro0's crimpers. Has anyone used these crimpers with the 16 AWG terminal and are the results still satisfactory? I have emailed Lutro0 but have not received a reply.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I'm assuming that most terminals purchased are the Molex 18-24 AWG type or equivalent. I use Molex high current terminals spec'd for 16 AWG and the bare wire crimp part of the terminal is slightly larger than that of the 18 - 24 AWG terminal. My Molex branded crimper has disappeared and to hold me over till I get another one I was going to purchase one of Lutro0's crimpers. Has anyone used these crimpers with the 16 AWG terminal and are the results still satisfactory? I have emailed Lutro0 but have not received a reply.


Yes the larger MiniFit Jr pins work fine in Lutro0's crimper. It's possible that it will shear off one wing, but there is a simple solution: loosen the dies, close the crimper, re-tighten the dies.

Incidentally, if you check the datasheet for MiniFit Jr, the 16 AWG pins have the same maximum current rating as the 18 AWG pins. This is because the current limit is not in the wings, but in the part that touches the PSU pins - which is the same dimensions in both sizes. So actually not much reason to use them except for allowing a tiny bit bigger insulation.


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes the larger MiniFit Jr pins work fine in Lutro0's crimper. It's possible that it will shear off one wing, but there is a simple solution: loosen the dies, close the crimper, re-tighten the dies.
> 
> Incidentally, if you check the datasheet for MiniFit Jr, the 16 AWG pins have the same maximum current rating as the 18 AWG pins. This is because the current limit is not in the wings, but in the part that touches the PSU pins - which is the same dimensions in both sizes. So actually not much reason to use them except for allowing a tiny bit bigger insulation.


Hi Thanks for the reply. I'll get a crimper ordered. I assumed the common terminal being offered for sale or purchased for sleeving projects were the 5556 series that are rated at 9A. The terminals I use are the 45750 series that have a 13A rating.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz*
> 
> Hi Thanks for the reply. I'll get a crimper ordered. I assumed the common terminal being offered for sale or purchased for sleeving projects were the 5556 series that are rated at 9A. The terminals I use are the 45750 series that have a 13A rating.


Ah right, I had forgotten about those. For these types there is indeed a difference of maximum current between the 16 and 18 AWG models









But you must read the data sheet again!









13 amps is only for 2 circuit wire-to-wire, i.e. when using a wire crimped with a 45750 female, mated with a wire crimped with a 46012 male pin, in a housing with no more than 2 wires.

For a 24 pin cable running between motherboard and PSU, the maximum current is down to 8 amps (45750 / 16 AWG) or 7 amps (45750 / 18 AWG), compared to 6 amps (5556 / 16,18 AWG)


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Ah right, I had forgotten about those. For these types there is indeed a difference of maximum current between the 16 and 18 AWG models
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But you must read the data sheet again!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 13 amps is only for 2 circuit wire-to-wire, i.e. when using a wire crimped with a 45750 female, mated with a wire crimped with a 46012 male pin, in a housing with no more than 2 wires.
> 
> For a 24 pin cable running between motherboard and PSU, the maximum current is down to 8 amps (45750 / 16 AWG) or 7 amps (45750 / 18 AWG), compared to 6 amps (5556 / 16,18 AWG)


Hello

The current derating is more a function of the housing than the terminal and is based on all circuits being loaded. The 24 pin connector could safely pass more current on some of the circuits where as a connection such as PCIe would need to adhere to this limitation. The increased current capacity of the terminal decreases the likelihood of metal fatigue at the connection point from high current loading/unloading. This is some of the reasoning Intel uses when specifying 11A terminals in their power supply design guidelines. I realize this is a non-issue for most but I have not found the cost difference to be great enough not to use the 13A terminals for 16 AWG wire.


----------



## Kenshiro 26

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes the larger MiniFit Jr pins work fine in Lutro0's crimper. It's possible that it will shear off one wing, but there is a simple solution: loosen the dies, close the crimper, re-tighten the dies.


This has begun to happen to me when crimping 18AWG while making custom wires. Will try your suggestion of loosening the dies, hopefully that will solve the wings being broken off.


----------



## WiSK

Oh,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz*
> 
> The current derating is more a function of the housing


Oh? Can you explain it further?

(I had always presumed it's because parallel wires of the same circuit will create an inductance field, but maybe that is negligible)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenshiro 26*
> 
> This has begun to happen to me when crimping 18AWG while making custom wires. Will try your suggestion of loosening the dies, hopefully that will solve the wings being broken off.


Hehe, it's not the loosening, it's the re-tightening that fixes the issue


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Oh,
> Oh? Can you explain it further?
> 
> (I had always presumed it's because parallel wires of the same circuit will create an inductance field, but maybe that is negligible)


Hello

Below is from the spec sheet I believe you were referencing above. The derating of the current is based on the capability of the connector for a given temperature.

Quote:


> * Ratings shown represent MAXIMUM current carrying capacity of a fully loaded connector with all circuits powered. Ratings are based on a 30°C maximum temperature rise limit over ambient (room temperature). Testing conducted with tinned copper conductor stranded wire. Above charts are intended as a guideline. Current rating is application dependent. Appropriate de-rating is required depending on factors such as higher ambient temperature, smaller copper weight of PCB traces, gross heating from adjacent modules or components and other factors that influence connector performance.
> 
> EIA-364-70 (Temperature Rise) & EIA-364-55 (Current Cycling): Apply current to mated connectors & incrementally increase until specified T-Rise is reached to establish rated current. Measure the T-Rise at the rated current after 96 hours, during current cycling (45 minutes ON and 15 minutes OFF per hour) for 240 hours, and after final 96-hour steady state.
> 
> Temperature rise:
> +30°C MAXIMUM


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz*
> 
> Below is from the spec sheet I believe you were referencing above. The derating of the current is based on the capability of the connector for a given temperature.


Quote:


> Appropriate de-rating is required depending on factors such as higher ambient temperature, smaller copper weight of PCB traces, gross heating from adjacent modules and other factors that influence connector performance.


The variable factor in that quote seems to be heating from multiple wires, if I read that correctly. So the concern is the risk that the housing overheats and melts...


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> The variable factor in that quote seems to be heating from multiple wires, if I read that correctly. So the concern is the risk that the housing overheats and melts...


Hello

Yes, the housing itself is the limiting factor. The terminals are capable of their current rating regardless of the loaded configuration or temperature rise. The advantage of higher current rated terminals in PC applications is a more solid contact between the mating surfaces over long term high current use.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz*
> 
> I have not found the cost difference to be great enough not to use the 13A terminals for 16 AWG wire.


Indeed, I see for example Farnell sells *39-00-0039* for €115,90 per 1000, and your suggestion, say *45750-3112* would be only €131 per 1000.


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Indeed, I see for example Farnell sells *39-00-0039* for €115,90 per 1000, and your suggestion, say *45750-3112* would be only €131 per 1000.


Hello

I have found the same. The exception, at least from my sources, is the 13A 18 - 24 AWG terminals. They are 3 times the cost of the 9A rated terminals because they are offered in gold only..


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Hey folks, what is an effective and easy way to measure the lengths of cable needed for each component? Are there are any nifty methods to use that curtail the need to remove any current cable management that you have installed so the machine can continue to function until the new cables are ready to be installed?


If you are talking about the IO panel to turn on your computer then yes - you can turn on your computer by using the built on on button or if you dont have one you can make a connection between the two terminals that would be for your power on button, it just needs to be connected with a flathead screwdriver for a second and the system will boot. Please be careful to not short anything else out - but this is how I start up my test benches all the time. If you need clarification please just ask.


----------



## AngryGoldfish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> If you are talking about the IO panel to turn on your computer then yes - you can turn on your computer by using the built on on button or if you dont have one you can make a connection between the two terminals that would be for your power on button, it just needs to be connected with a flathead screwdriver for a second and the system will boot. Please be careful to not short anything else out - but this is how I start up my test benches all the time. If you need clarification please just ask.


Sorry if you're answering my question, but are you sure you've quoted the right comment?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AngryGoldfish*
> 
> Sorry if you're answering my question, but are you sure you've quoted the right comment?


Yup I was quoting this part
Quote:


> Are there are any nifty methods to use that curtail the need to remove any current cable management that you have installed so the machine can continue to function until the new cables are ready to be installed?


at least I assume that was what you were asking. If not just ignore it lol


----------



## OdinValk

I asked this question in a different thread... and got a kind of meh answer.. I am wondering.. for those of us who don't have the time or money to sleeve every single individual cable.. they sell pre sleeved extensions.. do those extensions add any kind of resistance or anything to the current flowing through them? would they impede the voltage?

http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&cat=&query_string=sleeved+cable+extension for example


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OdinValk*
> 
> I asked this question in a different thread... and got a kind of meh answer.. I am wondering.. for those of us who don't have the time or money to sleeve every single individual cable.. they sell pre sleeved extensions.. do those extensions add any kind of resistance or anything to the current flowing through them? would they impede the voltage?
> 
> http://www.frys.com/search?search_type=regular&sqxts=1&cat=&query_string=sleeved+cable+extension for example


Resistance is a function of total length so yes they do add resistance of course.

But no worries, unless your wires are several meters long, there's no problem with a bit of extra length.


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Resistance is a function of total length so yes they do add resistance of course.
> 
> But no worries, unless your wires are several meters long, there's no problem with a bit of extra length.


this was my thinking.. but as it seems that the pci-e are only about 9" in total length and the 24pin about the same... I didn't think it would make a huge difference.. just wanted to make sure..
guess if nothing else.. I can break out the multimeter lol


----------



## Himo5

However, if resistance is also a function of wire gauge is there not a more fundamental problem?

All the sense wires I have seen on 24 pin ATX connectors in the Seasonic X-series PSUs are 20/22 awg.

It's been surmised that the difference in resistance of these sense wires from the 18 awg wires is what is being measured.

In a non-modular PSU, like the Corsair TX650, where these sense wires go to seperate soldered connections on the PCB, I can see how that might be the case, but in a modular PSU where the current in both the sense wires and the 18 awg measured wires are connected through the same heavier gauge PCB connectors to the PSU this difference in resistance is surely being dissipated?

Say, for example, you wished to develop a PSU manifold with short wires connecting the PSU outlets to a board at a cable access aperture with all the crossed lines sorted out, would a pair of 22awg sense wires, one of them from the PSU to be soldered to a PCB connector at the manifold and the other crimped from the manifold to the motherboard, retain the same functionality as one 22awg wire in a non-modular cable?


----------



## OdinValk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> However, if resistance is also a function of wire gauge is there not a more fundamental problem?
> 
> All the sense wires I have seen on 24 pin ATX connectors in the Seasonic X-series PSUs are 20/22 awg.
> 
> It's been surmised that the difference in resistance of these sense wires from the 18 awg wires is what is being measured.
> 
> In a non-modular PSU, like the Corsair TX650, where these sense wires go to seperate soldered connections on the PCB, I can see how that might be the case, but in a modular PSU where the current in both the sense wires and the 18 awg measured wires are connected through the same heavier gauge PCB connectors to the PSU this difference in resistance is surely being dissipated?
> 
> Say, for example, you wished to develop a PSU manifold with short wires connecting the PSU outlets to a board at a cable access aperture with all the crossed lines sorted out, would a pair of 22awg sense wires, one of them from the PSU to be soldered to a PCB connector at the manifold and the other crimped from the manifold to the motherboard, retain the same functionality as one 22awg wire in a non-modular cable?


the way the wires are connected at the source should not make much a difference.. as long as the wire is the same gauge all the way through.. one that is soldered and one that is crimped (long as they are soldered and crimped correctly) you will receieve the same output coming from the source.. the wire size and metal type used for conductor is what will determine resistance.. larger wire offers less resistance for higher voltages..


----------



## Praz

Hello

The sense wire circuit monitors the actual available supply voltage available at the motherboard so that voltage corrections can be made because of circuit resistance.

18 gauge stranded wire nominally has a resistance of 6.5227 Ohms per 1000 feet or 0.0065 Ohms per foot. A wire used in an 18 inch 24 pin connector would have a resistance of 0.0097 Ohms. Molex specs the Mini-Fit connector to have a maximum initial mating resistance of 0.010 Ohms. This works out to be a total of 0.02975 Ohms (0.0097+0.010+0.010) for a modular power supply with an 18 inch lead.

Voltage drop can be found by the equation V=IR where V is voltage, I is current and R is resistance. Using the 3.3V rail, as all power supplies have a sense wire for this rail, and the power supply configued as above a 1.5 amp load will result in a voltage drop of 0.045V (3.255V at the motherboard). If the load is increased to 4 amps the voltage drop will be 0.12V (3.18V at the motherboard). As this voltage drop is the result of circuit resistance only the 3.3V rail regulation circuit will still see a full 3.3V inside the power supply without the sense circuit.


----------



## Himo5

The connectors present in a modular PSU but not in a non-modular PSU are these:



I should think these have a considerably greater resistance than a MiniFit, just as resistance in the 22awg wire must differ from the 18awg. I think I am suggesting that the scale of resistance which these Pcb mounts have in ratio to the difference between 22awg and 18awg must have a considerable dissipating effect on whatever is being measured - especially in the angled variety with two different pin lengths..


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> The connectors present in a modular PSU but not in a non-modular PSU are these:
> 
> 
> 
> I should think these have a considerably greater resistance than a MiniFit, just as resistance in the 22awg wire must differ from the 18awg. I think I am suggesting that the scale of resistance which these Pcb mounts have in ratio to the difference between 22awg and 18awg must have a considerable dissipating effect on whatever is being measured.


Hello

PCB mounted headers should still be Mini-Fit or equivalent connectors as per spec by Intel. The resistance at the soldered connection is non-existent in the context of the sense circuit design. Just as using 22 AWG wire for the sense circuit. The circuit is designed with all point-to-point resistance accounted for. 22 AWG is used for the sense circuit as there is no load on the circuit. Intel has specified a maximum of 10mA loading for the circuit.


----------



## Himo5

Ah, good! Thanks for clearing that up for me. +1 rep.


----------



## Lutro0

Section updated to add new makers. Also a ton of links have been fixed and updated with more needing to be updated in the morning!

What Different Kinds Of Sleeveing Is There & Whats Worth Buying?
- What is all out there and what is the best?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



This question is asked all the time, but it is a very subjective one. The reason for that being that everyone has a personal choice. So while I cant say which ones is the best I will say which ones is the most popular, and we will start with that one right off the bat.

*Lutro0 Customs Teleios Sleeving* - www.MainFrameCustom.com - LC Teleios Sleeving is the product of tons of research into every single kind of sleeve that is available. It takes the very best attributes of those sleeves and puts it all into a 4mm and 8mm sata sized sleeve. LC Teleios is a newcomer into the sleeving world, however every single review that it has gotten has the reviewer ranking it above all of the rest.

It was made to be easy to use, uses vibrant colors that match your motherboard components, is woven in such a way to bring the densest and softest feeling sleeve out there, and it can cover almost any color of wire.

Newcomers to the sleeving scene that have used Teleios have produced awesome works of sleeve art without ever having sleeved before as the Teleios sleeve is made to be easily used in both heatshrinkless style and heatshrink style.

The color choices for Teleios are currently 11 vibrant solid colors and 2 unique mixed colors called the Fusion Line.

The sata sizes come in 11 vibrant colors and is made to have a very snug fit on any Sata Data cable. Its size of 8mm makes it a little more difficult to get onto the Sata Data cables, however once its on it covers almost all colors of cables and it grips tight to the cable to give you an unbelievably clean look.

Teleios can be found in the USA at www.MainFrameCustom.com and the UK at E22.Biz. Please note, however both sleeve shops sell worldwide with cheaper pricing then most shops out there. Both shops also sell basically everything you could ever need for your sleeving job with the best prices out there right now.

L*Lutro0 Customs Coreless Paracord* - www.MainFrameCustom.com - Lutro0 Customs has also designed a perfectly weaved paracord that does not have the inner core. What this means is that LC was able to design and purchase a flawless paracord that has the same standards through all of the colors and is easy to sleeve with. LC also sells a paracord threader that most people say is absolutely needed to use paracord as it allows you to place the paracord on the wire perfectly without any fraying.

*MDPC* - MDPC Sleeve and products has been considered the quality choice in the sleeving industry and as such they have lived up to that name over and over. The owner Nils stops at nothing to hold his products to the highest standard and will never relent in upholding that standard.

The sleeving itself is the perfect size for single sleeving and has an awesome coverage of the wire, however if you are doing white sleeving you will need to prep your cables which will be covered later on in the FAQ.

The color choices are right on par with what you would want in your system. Also the Heat Shrink color choices are one of a kind and will outdo anything out there at this time.

Please remember that the only flaw with MDPC is that to get great coverage you need to stretch it VERY tight and most sleevers that start out find this to be difficult.

But I will stop blabbing and let you look for yourself, You can check out MDPC on their website located here: http://www.mdpc-x.com/

*PARACORD* - Paracord sleeve is a very popular sleeving choice for those that are on a budget, however that does come at a price. Sleeving with paracord is just like sleeving with shoelaces and the material is nylon, and feels a bit like rope. Now if it is stretched right it will not feel floppy and work just fine, but you will have to take some extra time with it to make sure you get a good result.

The color choices of paracord are super abundant and you can find any color you want in at least a few shades.

Paracord comes in a few different sizes but the most popular sizes for sleeving will be 450lb paracord and 550lb paracord - the difference between the two is some extra strands in the middle of it (the core) and the 550lb being very slightly bigger. Both will work just fine for sleeving.

For finding paracord you simply need to do a search for "450 Paracord" or "550 Paracord"

Please caution that alot of paracord out there is cheaply made and looks like crud, so make sure to buy from a well known distributor.

It can also be found in an coreless style, but only one shop sells it. Here is the link:
http://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/lc-coreless-paracord/

*CEANCUT (techflex cleancut)* - Techflex CleanCut sleeving has become a popular choice for sleeving because of its full coverage and its super cheap price from an E-Bay distributor, FurryLetters.

The main downfall of CleanCut is that it only comes in 2 colors, black and gray. The sleeving itself is a plastic type and is very flexible and works perfect for single sleeving.

Prices vary from seller to seller but like stated earlier most buy it from FurryLetters on E-Bay, The main link to his shop can be found here: http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS

*Mod/Smart Kobra HD (Primochill)* - Kobra HD is marketed as a high density plastic sleeving in different sizes, and to those terms it is exactly that. However the size used for single sleeving (1/8th) is just a bit too small and gets caught on the molex pins of a wire, which means you have to use tape or an tool to get it on the wire without it snagging on it. Another thing to be aware is the high cost, some places go up to .60 a foot. Kobra is indeed a decent alternative if you have alot of time and patience on your hands, but be aware that the coverage gets spotty on larger wires and your sleeving experience will be slow due to the material.

You can buy Kobra HD sleeving at both Frozencpu.com and Performance-pcs.com

*Mod/Smart Maxcord Paracord (Primochill)* - http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g35/c641/list/p1/SleevingHeatshrink-ModSmart_-_MaxCord_Paracord.html - Maxcord is a new weaves paracord with all the same properties as all paracord but with an interesting weave and it comes in 3/32in and 1/8in. If you like paracord I would give this one I chance.

You can buy Maxcord sleeving at Frozencpu.com

*Techflex Flexo PET* - http://www.techflex.com - Flexo comes in almost as many colors as paracord but this sleeving is mainly used in industrial environments to bundle large bundles of sleeve and has a terrible coverage so its best not used for sleeving - however its a cheap choice and was one of the first sleeves to be used to sleeve with.

You can buy Flexo sleeving at Frozencpu.com

*Bitspower* - The Bitspower sleeving is still under review, but the initial use with it shows allot of the same flaws as Kobra HD when it comes to size, but the coverage of Bitspower sleeving is super dense which is the highlight of the sleeve. However, its size makes it hard to sleeve with and the over denseness of the sleeve makes the sleeve not stretch very much. This is important in a sleeve as you want it to conform to the wire. However, even with these downfalls its a viable sleeving material just not the first I would grab for.

Bitspower also makes a heatshrink tubing which has a nice thin wall, however the shrink has a low melting point which disappointingly leaves it kinda useless as you always want to melt the sleeve underneath a little and the shrink is very prone to melt and deform before the sleeve will melt before.

You can purchase Bitspower Sleeving at major online shops including Performance-pcs.com

*Sleeve-Modding.com* - SM sells a sleeve that is just like MDPC but in different colors, the diameter is a but smaller but the quality is just the same, so I will not explain that more. The owner is also a great guy and does his best to provide top notch products. I have personally done a video review one his store that you can view here: 




They also sell heatshrink but right now the heatshrink is sub par and they are in the process of getting new stock.

*Darkside Sleeving* - http://www.dazmode.com/ is our Canadian modding shop to the north. The owner is a great person and does his best to strive to innovation and best products he can. his sleeve comes in many different colors and unique styles - he also offered a heatshrink that while its not the best will get most jobs done easily.

*MainFrame Customs* - http://mainframecustom.com/ - LC provides at this moment the best paracord on the market including a never before sold "coreless" kind that makes sleeving easy with paracord. What sets apart this paracord from others and I dont say this just because its my shop is that I have literally tried every reseller of paracord out there and there is always problems like fuzzyness or snags, LC paracord is perfect and tightly woven and comes in many many colors both in 550 and coreless. Save yourself the frustration from buying bargain Paracord that looks like its been drug through a parking lot and get the good stuff right away. http://mainframecustom.com/ also carries everything you need for your sleeving job at great prices!

*PC Modz Depot* - http://pcmzd.com/pcmzd-cable-sleeving/pcmzd-cable-sleeving.html - PCMZD is a great sleeve, everything about it is nice minus the coloring - the colors are an see through on some of them and just dont match some systems. Dont take my word for it give them a try the owner is an awesome fellow is ready to help out anyone he can. They also carry heatshrink but I have not at this time had a chance to try it.

*ShakMods* - http://shakmods.com/ - ShakMods sleeving is just like PCMZD in some different colors, the weave is the same and the same issues are with it. However Shak provides different heatshrink that is medium level heat shrink and will work for for your project. Also Shakmods has come out with a line of matte sleeving that is unique in the fact that the colors are slightly faded to give a eggshell finish. Many people are undecided on if they like the look or not as most people choose to have vibrant colors instead.

Some quick mentions for sleeve that I have not fully tested are as follows:

*Big City Sleeving* - https://www.facebook.com/groups/299207060157345/ - BCS is Otis Fats I have not gotten my hands on any so I have not done a review yet but its worth looking into.

*FTW Sleeve Rignoobies Brand* - http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=20995037 - This sleeve is made by the popular Rig Noobies and is an up and coming company. Give them a chance you might be surprised.

*Gosu Modz* - http://www.gosumodz.com/ - This is a new company overseas and they have come out with a sleeve series called their PHALANX SLEEVES. I have not had the chance to use their sleeve yet but I have some on the way to do a review on it. It comes in many colors and looks to be promising!

*ModDiy* - http://www.moddiy.com/ - ModDiy has been around for a while and are a great shop for just about anything sleeving and more. They carry a line called Deluxe High Density Weave and it comes in vaired sizes from 2mm to 16mm. They also carry the super hard to find connectors that honestly cannot be found anywhere else - however they know it and charge allot for them all the way up to over 2 dollars and the shipping is high at times. But they are a great shop for all your needs.

*CableMod* - http://www.CableMod.com - CableMod is a supplier of OEM Cable sets for allot of different power supplies - at this point they dont sell sleeving by itself but they use a paracord like fabric that seems to work well. I have heard mixed results from the people who buy them but I have not had the chance to review one but I have one on its way so I will update this. Right now they are indeed the cheapest place to buy OEM sets in multiple colors for your psus so it wont be too bad to give them a try.

*ModGuru* - http://modguru.net/ - ModGuru currently sells Shakmods sleeving so this stores sleeve is the quality as Shakmods.

*Other Sleevings* - There is a few other types of sleeving out there at this moment, but I have not added the due to their popularity not being very high and the price or quality being too high or too low. I will be adding the other types as I find some time.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Section updated to add new makers. Also a ton of links have been fixed and updated!
> 
> What Different Kinds Of Sleeveing Is There & Whats Worth Buying?
> - What is all out there and what is the best?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> This question is asked all the time, but it is a very subjective one. The reason for that being that everyone has a personal choice. So while I cant say which ones is the best I will say which ones is the most popular, and we will start with that one right off the bat.
> 
> *Lutro0 Customs Teleios Sleeving* - www.MainFrameCustom.com - LC Teleios Sleeving is the product of tons of research into every single kind of sleeve that is available. It takes the very best attributes of those sleeves and puts it all into a 4mm and 8mm sata sized sleeve. LC Teleios is a newcomer into the sleeving world, however every single review that it has gotten has the reviewer ranking it above all of the rest.
> 
> It was made to be easy to use, uses vibrant colors that match your motherboard components, is woven in such a way to bring the densest and softest feeling sleeve out there, and it can cover almost any color of wire.
> 
> Newcomers to the sleeving scene that have used Teleios have produced awesome works of sleeve art without ever having sleeved before as the Teleios sleeve is made to be easily used in both heatshrinkless style and heatshrink style.
> 
> The color choices for Teleios are currently 11 vibrant solid colors and 2 unique mixed colors called the Fusion Line.
> 
> The sata sizes come in 11 vibrant colors and is made to have a very snug fit on any Sata Data cable. Its size of 8mm makes it a little more difficult to get onto the Sata Data cables, however once its on it covers almost all colors of cables and it grips tight to the cable to give you an unbelievably clean look.
> 
> Teleios can be found in the USA at www.MainFrameCustom.com and the UK at E22.Biz. Please note, however both sleeve shops sell worldwide with cheaper pricing then most shops out there. Both shops also sell basically everything you could ever need for your sleeving job with the best prices out there right now.
> 
> L*Lutro0 Customs Coreless Paracord* - www.MainFrameCustom.com - Lutro0 Customs has also designed a perfectly weaved paracord that does not have the inner core. What this means is that LC was able to design and purchase a flawless paracord that has the same standards through all of the colors and is easy to sleeve with. LC also sells a paracord threader that most people say is absolutely needed to use paracord as it allows you to place the paracord on the wire perfectly without any fraying.
> 
> *MDPC* - MDPC Sleeve and products has been considered the quality choice in the sleeving industry and as such they have lived up to that name over and over. The owner Nils stops at nothing to hold his products to the highest standard and will never relent in upholding that standard.
> 
> The sleeving itself is the perfect size for single sleeving and has an awesome coverage of the wire, however if you are doing white sleeving you will need to prep your cables which will be covered later on in the FAQ.
> 
> The color choices are right on par with what you would want in your system. Also the Heat Shrink color choices are one of a kind and will outdo anything out there at this time.
> 
> Please remember that the only flaw with MDPC is that to get great coverage you need to stretch it VERY tight and most sleevers that start out find this to be difficult.
> 
> But I will stop blabbing and let you look for yourself, You can check out MDPC on their website located here: http://www.mdpc-x.com/
> 
> *PARACORD* - Paracord sleeve is a very popular sleeving choice for those that are on a budget, however that does come at a price. Sleeving with paracord is just like sleeving with shoelaces and the material is nylon, and feels a bit like rope. Now if it is stretched right it will not feel floppy and work just fine, but you will have to take some extra time with it to make sure you get a good result.
> 
> The color choices of paracord are super abundant and you can find any color you want in at least a few shades.
> 
> Paracord comes in a few different sizes but the most popular sizes for sleeving will be 450lb paracord and 550lb paracord - the difference between the two is some extra strands in the middle of it (the core) and the 550lb being very slightly bigger. Both will work just fine for sleeving.
> 
> For finding paracord you simply need to do a search for "450 Paracord" or "550 Paracord"
> 
> Please caution that alot of paracord out there is cheaply made and looks like crud, so make sure to buy from a well known distributor.
> 
> It can also be found in an coreless style, but only one shop sells it. Here is the link:
> http://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/lc-coreless-paracord/
> 
> *CEANCUT (techflex cleancut)* - Techflex CleanCut sleeving has become a popular choice for sleeving because of its full coverage and its super cheap price from an E-Bay distributor, FurryLetters.
> 
> The main downfall of CleanCut is that it only comes in 2 colors, black and gray. The sleeving itself is a plastic type and is very flexible and works perfect for single sleeving.
> 
> Prices vary from seller to seller but like stated earlier most buy it from FurryLetters on E-Bay, The main link to his shop can be found here: http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS
> 
> *Mod/Smart Kobra HD (Primochill)* - Kobra HD is marketed as a high density plastic sleeving in different sizes, and to those terms it is exactly that. However the size used for single sleeving (1/8th) is just a bit too small and gets caught on the molex pins of a wire, which means you have to use tape or an tool to get it on the wire without it snagging on it. Another thing to be aware is the high cost, some places go up to .60 a foot. Kobra is indeed a decent alternative if you have alot of time and patience on your hands, but be aware that the coverage gets spotty on larger wires and your sleeving experience will be slow due to the material.
> 
> You can buy Kobra HD sleeving at both Frozencpu.com and Performance-pcs.com
> 
> *Mod/Smart Maxcord Paracord (Primochill)* - http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g35/c641/list/p1/SleevingHeatshrink-ModSmart_-_MaxCord_Paracord.html - Maxcord is a new weaves paracord with all the same properties as all paracord but with an interesting weave and it comes in 3/32in and 1/8in. If you like paracord I would give this one I chance.
> 
> You can buy Maxcord sleeving at Frozencpu.com
> 
> *Techflex Flexo PET* - http://www.techflex.com - Flexo comes in almost as many colors as paracord but this sleeving is mainly used in industrial environments to bundle large bundles of sleeve and has a terrible coverage so its best not used for sleeving - however its a cheap choice and was one of the first sleeves to be used to sleeve with.
> 
> You can buy Flexo sleeving at Frozencpu.com
> 
> *Bitspower* - The Bitspower sleeving is still under review, but the initial use with it shows allot of the same flaws as Kobra HD when it comes to size, but the coverage of Bitspower sleeving is super dense which is the highlight of the sleeve. However, its size makes it hard to sleeve with and the over denseness of the sleeve makes the sleeve not stretch very much. This is important in a sleeve as you want it to conform to the wire. However, even with these downfalls its a viable sleeving material just not the first I would grab for.
> 
> Bitspower also makes a heatshrink tubing which has a nice thin wall, however the shrink has a low melting point which disappointingly leaves it kinda useless as you always want to melt the sleeve underneath a little and the shrink is very prone to melt and deform before the sleeve will melt before.
> 
> You can purchase Bitspower Sleeving at major online shops including Performance-pcs.com
> 
> *Sleeve-Modding.com* - SM sells a sleeve that is just like MDPC but in different colors, the diameter is a but smaller but the quality is just the same, so I will not explain that more. The owner is also a great guy and does his best to provide top notch products. I have personally done a video review one his store that you can view here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They also sell heatshrink but right now the heatshrink is sub par and they are in the process of getting new stock.
> 
> *Darkside Sleeving* - http://www.dazmode.com/ is our Canadian modding shop to the north. The owner is a great person and does his best to strive to innovation and best products he can. his sleeve comes in many different colors and unique styles - he also offered a heatshrink that while its not the best will get most jobs done easily.
> 
> *MainFrame Customs* - http://mainframecustom.com/ - LC provides at this moment the best paracord on the market including a never before sold "coreless" kind that makes sleeving easy with paracord. What sets apart this paracord from others and I dont say this just because its my shop is that I have literally tried every reseller of paracord out there and there is always problems like fuzzyness or snags, LC paracord is perfect and tightly woven and comes in many many colors both in 550 and coreless. Save yourself the frustration from buying bargain Paracord that looks like its been drug through a parking lot and get the good stuff right away. http://mainframecustom.com/ also carries everything you need for your sleeving job at great prices!
> 
> *PC Modz Depot* - http://pcmzd.com/pcmzd-cable-sleeving/pcmzd-cable-sleeving.html - PCMZD is a great sleeve, everything about it is nice minus the coloring - the colors are an see through on some of them and just dont match some systems. Dont take my word for it give them a try the owner is an awesome fellow is ready to help out anyone he can. They also carry heatshrink but I have not at this time had a chance to try it.
> 
> *ShakMods* - http://shakmods.com/ - ShakMods sleeving is just like PCMZD in some different colors, the weave is the same and the same issues are with it. However Shak provides different heatshrink that is medium level heat shrink and will work for for your project. Also Shakmods has come out with a line of matte sleeving that is unique in the fact that the colors are slightly faded to give a eggshell finish. Many people are undecided on if they like the look or not as most people choose to have vibrant colors instead.
> 
> Some quick mentions for sleeve that I have not fully tested are as follows:
> 
> *Big City Sleeving* - https://www.facebook.com/groups/299207060157345/ - BCS is Otis Fats I have not gotten my hands on any so I have not done a review yet but its worth looking into.
> 
> *FTW Sleeve Rignoobies Brand* - http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=20995037 - This sleeve is made by the popular Rig Noobies and is an up and coming company. Give them a chance you might be surprised.
> 
> *Gosu Modz* - http://www.gosumodz.com/ - This is a new company overseas and they have come out with a sleeve series called their PHALANX SLEEVES. I have not had the chance to use their sleeve yet but I have some on the way to do a review on it. It comes in many colors and looks to be promising!
> 
> *ModDiy* - http://www.moddiy.com/ - ModDiy has been around for a while and are a great shop for just about anything sleeving and more. They carry a line called Deluxe High Density Weave and it comes in vaired sizes from 2mm to 16mm. They also carry the super hard to find connectors that honestly cannot be found anywhere else - however they know it and charge allot for them all the way up to over 2 dollars and the shipping is high at times. But they are a great shop for all your needs.
> 
> *CableMod* - http://www.CableMod.com - CableMod is a supplier of OEM Cable sets for allot of different power supplies - at this point they dont sell sleeving by itself but they use a paracord like fabric that seems to work well. I have heard mixed results from the people who buy them but I have not had the chance to review one but I have one on its way so I will update this. Right now they are indeed the cheapest place to buy OEM sets in multiple colors for your psus so it wont be too bad to give them a try.
> 
> *ModGuru* - http://modguru.net/ - ModGuru currently sells Shakmods sleeving so this stores sleeve is the quality as Shakmods.
> 
> *Other Sleevings* - There is a few other types of sleeving out there at this moment, but I have not added the due to their popularity not being very high and the price or quality being too high or too low. I will be adding the other types as I find some time.


What' about upc aegis?


----------



## CyFi

What Different Kinds Of Sleeveing Is There & Whats Worth Buying?
- What is all out there and what is the best?


Spoiler: Click to Expand



This question is asked all the time, but it is a very subjective one. The reason for that being that everyone has a personal choice. So while I cant say which ones is the best I will say which ones is the most popular, and we will start with that one right off the bat.

*Lutro0 Customs Teleios Sleeving* - www.MainFrameCustom.com - LC Teleios Sleeving is the product of tons of research into every single kind of sleeve that is available. It takes the very best attributes of those sleeves and puts it all into a 4mm and 8mm sata sized sleeve. LC Teleios is a newcomer into the sleeving world, however every single review that it has gotten has the reviewer ranking it above all of the rest.

It was made to be easy to use, uses vibrant colors that match your motherboard components, is woven in such a way to bring the densest and softest feeling sleeve out there, and it can cover almost any color of wire.

Newcomers to the sleeving scene that have used Teleios have produced awesome works of sleeve art without ever having sleeved before as the Teleios sleeve is made to be easily used in both heatshrinkless style and heatshrink style.

The color choices for Teleios are currently 11 vibrant solid colors and 2 unique mixed colors called the Fusion Line.

The sata sizes come in 11 vibrant colors and is made to have a very snug fit on any Sata Data cable. Its size of 8mm makes it a little more difficult to get onto the Sata Data cables, however once its on it covers almost all colors of cables and it grips tight to the cable to give you an unbelievably clean look.

Teleios can be found in the USA at www.MainFrameCustom.com and the UK at E22.Biz. Please note, however both sleeve shops sell worldwide with cheaper pricing then most shops out there. Both shops also sell basically everything you could ever need for your sleeving job with the best prices out there right now.

L*Lutro0 Customs Coreless Paracord* - www.MainFrameCustom.com - Lutro0 Customs has also designed a perfectly weaved paracord that does not have the inner core. What this means is that LC was able to design and purchase a flawless paracord that has the same standards through all of the colors and is easy to sleeve with. LC also sells a paracord threader that most people say is absolutely needed to use paracord as it allows you to place the paracord on the wire perfectly without any fraying.

*MDPC* - MDPC Sleeve and products has been considered the quality choice in the sleeving industry and as such they have lived up to that name over and over. The owner Nils stops at nothing to hold his products to the highest standard and will never relent in upholding that standard.

The sleeving itself is the perfect size for single sleeving and has an awesome coverage of the wire, however if you are doing white sleeving you will need to prep your cables which will be covered later on in the FAQ.

The color choices are right on par with what you would want in your system. Also the Heat Shrink color choices are one of a kind and will outdo anything out there at this time.

Please remember that the only flaw with MDPC is that to get great coverage you need to stretch it VERY tight and most sleevers that start out find this to be difficult.

But I will stop blabbing and let you look for yourself, You can check out MDPC on their website located here: http://www.mdpc-x.com/

*PARACORD* - Paracord sleeve is a very popular sleeving choice for those that are on a budget, however that does come at a price. Sleeving with paracord is just like sleeving with shoelaces and the material is nylon, and feels a bit like rope. Now if it is stretched right it will not feel floppy and work just fine, but you will have to take some extra time with it to make sure you get a good result.

The color choices of paracord are super abundant and you can find any color you want in at least a few shades.

Paracord comes in a few different sizes but the most popular sizes for sleeving will be 450lb paracord and 550lb paracord - the difference between the two is some extra strands in the middle of it (the core) and the 550lb being very slightly bigger. Both will work just fine for sleeving.

For finding paracord you simply need to do a search for "450 Paracord" or "550 Paracord"

Please caution that alot of paracord out there is cheaply made and looks like crud, so make sure to buy from a well known distributor.

It can also be found in an coreless style, but only one shop sells it. Here is the link:
http://mainframecustom.com/product-category/cable-sleeving/lc-coreless-paracord/

*CEANCUT (techflex cleancut)* - Techflex CleanCut sleeving has become a popular choice for sleeving because of its full coverage and its super cheap price from an E-Bay distributor, FurryLetters.

The main downfall of CleanCut is that it only comes in 2 colors, black and gray. The sleeving itself is a plastic type and is very flexible and works perfect for single sleeving.

Prices vary from seller to seller but like stated earlier most buy it from FurryLetters on E-Bay, The main link to his shop can be found here: http://stores.ebay.com/FURRYLETTERS

*Mod/Smart Kobra HD (Primochill)* - Kobra HD is marketed as a high density plastic sleeving in different sizes, and to those terms it is exactly that. However the size used for single sleeving (1/8th) is just a bit too small and gets caught on the molex pins of a wire, which means you have to use tape or an tool to get it on the wire without it snagging on it. Another thing to be aware is the high cost, some places go up to .60 a foot. Kobra is indeed a decent alternative if you have alot of time and patience on your hands, but be aware that the coverage gets spotty on larger wires and your sleeving experience will be slow due to the material.

You can buy Kobra HD sleeving at both Frozencpu.com and Performance-pcs.com

*Mod/Smart Maxcord Paracord (Primochill)* - http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g35/c641/list/p1/SleevingHeatshrink-ModSmart_-_MaxCord_Paracord.html - Maxcord is a new weaves paracord with all the same properties as all paracord but with an interesting weave and it comes in 3/32in and 1/8in. If you like paracord I would give this one I chance.

You can buy Maxcord sleeving at Frozencpu.com

*Techflex Flexo PET* - http://www.techflex.com - Flexo comes in almost as many colors as paracord but this sleeving is mainly used in industrial environments to bundle large bundles of sleeve and has a terrible coverage so its best not used for sleeving - however its a cheap choice and was one of the first sleeves to be used to sleeve with.

You can buy Flexo sleeving at Frozencpu.com

*Bitspower* - The Bitspower sleeving is still under review, but the initial use with it shows allot of the same flaws as Kobra HD when it comes to size, but the coverage of Bitspower sleeving is super dense which is the highlight of the sleeve. However, its size makes it hard to sleeve with and the over denseness of the sleeve makes the sleeve not stretch very much. This is important in a sleeve as you want it to conform to the wire. However, even with these downfalls its a viable sleeving material just not the first I would grab for.

Bitspower also makes a heatshrink tubing which has a nice thin wall, however the shrink has a low melting point which disappointingly leaves it kinda useless as you always want to melt the sleeve underneath a little and the shrink is very prone to melt and deform before the sleeve will melt before.

You can purchase Bitspower Sleeving at major online shops including Performance-pcs.com

*Sleeve-Modding.com* - SM sells a sleeve that is just like MDPC but in different colors, the diameter is a but smaller but the quality is just the same, so I will not explain that more. The owner is also a great guy and does his best to provide top notch products. I have personally done a video review one his store that you can view here: 




They also sell heatshrink but right now the heatshrink is sub par and they are in the process of getting new stock.

*Darkside Sleeving* - http://www.dazmode.com/ is our Canadian modding shop to the north. The owner is a great person and does his best to strive to innovation and best products he can. his sleeve comes in many different colors and unique styles - he also offered a heatshrink that while its not the best will get most jobs done easily.

*MainFrame Customs* - http://mainframecustom.com/ - LC provides at this moment the best paracord on the market including a never before sold "coreless" kind that makes sleeving easy with paracord. What sets apart this paracord from others and I dont say this just because its my shop is that I have literally tried every reseller of paracord out there and there is always problems like fuzzyness or snags, LC paracord is perfect and tightly woven and comes in many many colors both in 550 and coreless. Save yourself the frustration from buying bargain Paracord that looks like its been drug through a parking lot and get the good stuff right away. http://mainframecustom.com/ also carries everything you need for your sleeving job at great prices!

*PC Modz Depot* - http://pcmzd.com/pcmzd-cable-sleeving/pcmzd-cable-sleeving.html - PCMZD is a great sleeve, everything about it is nice minus the coloring - the colors are an see through on some of them and just dont match some systems. Dont take my word for it give them a try the owner is an awesome fellow is ready to help out anyone he can. They also carry heatshrink but I have not at this time had a chance to try it.

*ShakMods* - http://shakmods.com/ - ShakMods sleeving is just like PCMZD in some different colors, the weave is the same and the same issues are with it. However Shak provides different heatshrink that is medium level heat shrink and will work for for your project. Also Shakmods has come out with a line of matte sleeving that is unique in the fact that the colors are slightly faded to give a eggshell finish. Many people are undecided on if they like the look or not as most people choose to have vibrant colors instead.

Some quick mentions for sleeve that I have not fully tested are as follows:

*Big City Sleeving* - https://www.facebook.com/groups/299207060157345/ - BCS is Otis Fats I have not gotten my hands on any so I have not done a review yet but its worth looking into.

*FTW Sleeve Rignoobies Brand* - http://www.tipidpc.com/viewitem.php?iid=20995037 - This sleeve is made by the popular Rig Noobies and is an up and coming company. Give them a chance you might be surprised.

*Gosu Modz* - http://www.gosumodz.com/ - This is a new company overseas and they have come out with a sleeve series called their PHALANX SLEEVES. I have not had the chance to use their sleeve yet but I have some on the way to do a review on it. It comes in many colors and looks to be promising!

*ModDiy* - http://www.moddiy.com/ - ModDiy has been around for a while and are a great shop for just about anything sleeving and more. They carry a line called Deluxe High Density Weave and it comes in vaired sizes from 2mm to 16mm. They also carry the super hard to find connectors that honestly cannot be found anywhere else - however they know it and charge allot for them all the way up to over 2 dollars and the shipping is high at times. But they are a great shop for all your needs.

*CableMod* - http://www.CableMod.com - CableMod is a supplier of OEM Cable sets for allot of different power supplies - at this point they dont sell sleeving by itself but they use a paracord like fabric that seems to work well. I have heard mixed results from the people who buy them but I have not had the chance to review one but I have one on its way so I will update this. Right now they are indeed the cheapest place to buy OEM sets in multiple colors for your psus so it wont be too bad to give them a try.

*ModGuru* - http://modguru.net/ - ModGuru currently sells Shakmods sleeving so this stores sleeve is the quality as Shakmods.

*Other Sleevings* - There is a few other types of sleeving out there at this moment, but I have not added the due to their popularity not being very high and the price or quality being too high or too low. I will be adding the other types as I find some time.



I am curious as to why UPC is not being recognized for their work? They do excellent work and my personal testimony can prove to that (as well as the pictures I have attached). Their Aegis sleeving is extremely high quality and I don't see why they aren't being given the recognition that they deserve, yet people who opened shops two weeks are? I don't think I have even seen any work from over HALF of these shops. CableMod is so new they just got a facebook....again, I am not bashing all these other sleevers, I am just wondering why someone WHO DOES QUALITY WORK AND USES QUALITY SLEEVING is not being added to this list.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*


Sorry bud, it was late and I spaced you and 3 others I will get to them in the morning.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyFi*
> 
> I am curious as to why UPC is not being recognized for their work? They do excellent work and my personal testimony can prove to that (as well as the pictures I have attached). Their Aegis sleeving is extremely high quality and I don't see why they aren't being given the recognition that they deserve, yet people who opened shops two weeks are? I don't think I have even seen any work from over HALF of these shops. CableMod is so new they just got a facebook....again, I am not bashing all these other sleevers, I am just wondering why someone WHO DOES QUALITY WORK AND USES QUALITY SLEEVING is not being added to this list.
> 
> -snip-


woa woa...

It was late and I honestly spaced it- I was grabbing everyone I could off the top of my list and head, I have 3 more I need to add as well I will add them in the morning - nothing against anyone, just late and tired - I have UPC added in the International sleeving group on facebook tons of people see his nice colors of sleeving =) Adam does good work but if its recognition you want for him post an indepth review here or on facebook for him.

Just remember this is an always being updated FAQ and I always take suggestions on items needed to be added when asked or informed


----------



## OwaN

I have a few questions about something that I don't see addressed in many (or any) guides, but I have recently run in to while trying to do my first set of individually sleeved extensions. What is the best way to measure and ensure that all wires are a consistent length? I found that even though I *thought* my wires were consistently measured, that when I started plugging things into terminals the differences in length were enough to cause waviness. I can make the short, visible portion look ok, but I'm worried that when I do GPU cables I won't be able to hide the imperfections










Also, If I want to train cables such that there are curves in them, do I need to make sure that the wires on the outside of the curve are longer than those on the inside to account for the bend radius? Whats the best way to do this? Is there a general rule of thumb (e.g. 1/4" longer on the outside wires is usually ok)?


----------



## WiSK

We had a discussion about this last year or something. This is how I approach it, others may differ in opinion









One mistake is measuring the insulation which is stretchy, instead of the wire which is not stretchy. The other mistake is that when you make the crimp, wire position can vary wildly depending how deep you pushed in the strands.

Either: 1) pre-crimp - crimp 3 clicks and remove and adjust before returning the pin to the crimper and finishing it; or 2) observe while you are pushing in the wire how far the strands are poking out the other side.


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> We had a discussion about this last year or something. This is how I approach it, others may differ in opinion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One mistake is measuring the insulation which is stretchy, instead of the wire which is not stretchy. The other mistake is that when you make the crimp, wire position can vary wildly depending how deep you pushed in the strands.
> 
> Either: 1) pre-crimp - crimp 3 clicks and remove and adjust before returning the pin to the crimper and finishing it; or 2) observe while you are pushing in the wire how far the strands are poking out the other side.


I have been going the pre-crimp route, simply because I haven't been able to consistently get the wire seated in the wings without some form of pre-crimp. I think you're probably right that my exact crimp position is a major issue. I'm using Lutro0's 16awg wire and a knipex wire stripper, the minimum stripping length is about 3mm IIRC, which seems to be too long for the female molex pins. If I position it so that the end of the wire sits right outside the female connector part (because the gauge is too large to fit in), the stress relief crimp doesn't reach the insulation. To make it work I was either trimming the wire a bit, or free-handing the stripping so that the exposed length was shorter, which must have added a significant amount of variance. I'm regretting my decision to go 16awg instead of 18awg, since any excess length would fit more easily into the end of the connector and I wouldn't have this issue. I suppose its not too late to order another batch of 18awg wire.

I haven't noticed the insulation stretching though, whenever I've measured it looks like the wire core is right to the edge of the cut


----------



## Praz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> I have been going the pre-crimp route, simply because I haven't been able to consistently get the wire seated in the wings without some form of pre-crimp. I think you're probably right that my exact crimp position is a major issue. I'm using Lutro0's 16awg wire and a knipex wire stripper, the minimum stripping length is about 3mm IIRC, which seems to be too long for the female molex pins. If I position it so that the end of the wire sits right outside the female connector part (because the gauge is too large to fit in), the stress relief crimp doesn't reach the insulation. To make it work I was either trimming the wire a bit, or free-handing the stripping so that the exposed length was shorter, which must have added a significant amount of variance. I'm regretting my decision to go 16awg instead of 18awg, since any excess length would fit more easily into the end of the connector and I wouldn't have this issue. I suppose its not too late to order another batch of 18awg wire.
> 
> I haven't noticed the insulation stretching though, whenever I've measured it looks like the wire core is right to the edge of the cut


Hello

Another option is use crimp terminals designed for 16 AWG wire. A strip length of 3mm will not be too long. That is length specified by Molex for these terminals.


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Praz*
> 
> Hello
> 
> Another option is use crimp terminals designed for 16 AWG wire. A strip length of 3mm will not be too long. That is length specified by Molex for these terminals.


Hm, I didn't know this was a thing. I ordered my female terminals from lutro0 several months ago so I just assumed they would work fine with his 16awg wire. Any idea what the best place to source these would be?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Hm, I didn't know this was a thing. I ordered my female terminals from lutro0 several months ago so I just assumed they would work fine with his 16awg wire. Any idea what the best place to source these would be?


you can use the regular atx pins,, the knipex strips somthing like 5mm which is why its too long. it still works just makes it a tad bit more difficult to insert the wire with out jagging on something.


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> you can use the regular atx pins,, the knipex strips somthing like 5mm which is why its too long. it still works just makes it a tad bit more difficult to insert the wire with out jagging on something.


I see now, based on this thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1486849/knipex-1262180-stripper-strip-length/0_40
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> The tool does need to be modified to do 2mm. BE has a pic of just a tiny screw put in the red guide that words well. Otherwise it does more like 3-5mm which works fine if you are using 18awg wire but if you are using 16awg it really needs to be at 2mm.
> 
> Hope that helps. There is a model one up that will do 2mm but its around 100 bucks, we can special order it or show you where.


I wish I had known this before starting and buying supplies. Not sure If I want to mess around modifying the tool, or just take the easier, but slower and more expensive route of just buying 18awg instead.


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> I see now, based on this thread here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1486849/knipex-1262180-stripper-strip-length/0_40
> I wish I had known this before starting and buying supplies. Not sure If I want to mess around modifying the tool, or just take the easier, but slower and more expensive route of just buying 18awg instead.


you dont need to modify it, i use the same stripper in all my sleeve jobs, with 16 just strip it to the first or second grey tooth on the stripper. i normally dont pre crimp female terminals i insert then, them squeeze just enough to bow the wings but not hit the first click, insert wire and look to see that the insulation it pushed up to the crimp part of the terminal.


----------



## OwaN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> you dont need to modify it, i use the same stripper in all my sleeve jobs, with 16 just strip it to the first or second grey tooth on the stripper. i normally dont pre crimp female terminals i insert then, them squeeze just enough to bow the wings but not hit the first click, insert wire and look to see that the insulation it pushed up to the crimp part of the terminal.


Sounds good. I will give this a shot on a set of wires in the next few days and see how it goes. Thanks for your help


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OwaN*
> 
> Sounds good. I will give this a shot on a set of wires in the next few days and see how it goes. Thanks for your help


any time man


----------



## Flame113

Is there any compatibility issue with using extensible cables? For example I'm using a Corsair AX860 and any extensible cable will work?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flame113*
> 
> Is there any compatibility issue with using extensible cables? For example I'm using a Corsair AX860 and any extensible cable will work?


i think you mean extension cables?

if so, then yes. any corresponding extension cable will work since they are just extending your existing cables


----------



## rgrwng

[ Deleted ]


----------



## skywalker311

when doing the 24 pin cable does the smaller cables go on the outside or the longer.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skywalker311*
> 
> when doing the 24 pin cable does the smaller cables go on the outside or the longer.


Smaller cables are on the inside of the bend. (and i am assuming that you are talking about extensions)


----------



## nchilds98

So when making extensions, you don't need a pinout, correct? I'm not in the mood for blowing up my PSU lol


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nchilds98*
> 
> So when making extensions, you don't need a pinout, correct? I'm not in the mood for blowing up my PSU lol


Nope, extensions are 1:1


----------



## SiberianGhost

I was searching for 16awg wire and I find this:

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-16-100-11-16-Gauge-100-Feet/dp/B000PANG74/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1429111054&sr=8-2&keywords=16awg+wire

That could work for extensions?

Thanks!


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SiberianGhost*
> 
> I was searching for 16awg wire and I find this:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-16-100-11-16-Gauge-100-Feet/dp/B000PANG74/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1429111054&sr=8-2&keywords=16awg+wire
> 
> That could work for extensions?
> 
> Thanks!


I used to use that when I first started. It can be used but its very thick and only for heatshrinkless. The 18awg coleman will be easier to work with.

or you could buy 16awg from a sleeving shop.


----------



## SiberianGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I used to use that when I first started. It can be used but its very thick and only for heatshrinkless. The 18awg coleman will be easier to work with.
> 
> or you could buy 16awg from a sleeving shop.


Thank you, Lutro0!


----------



## BaDaBOOM

What size paracord do you guys use ??


----------



## SiberianGhost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaDaBOOM*
> 
> What size paracord do you guys use ??


Paracord 550 is the mostly used for sleeving


----------



## yoi

Question:

for some fan extensions , what wire gauge should i use? awg22?


----------



## Himo5

Lutro0 advises 22awg for fan cables. I've always used 7/0.2mm equipment wire, which is about 24awg, and never had any trouble with it, but that may be too thin to produce a stiff 4-wire bundle in the sleeving you're going to use.


----------



## clipse84

Does anybody know how much sleeve to buy for a corsair 1500i


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clipse84*
> 
> Does anybody know how much sleeve to buy for a corsair 1500i


Hey! That's a bit lazy







This thread is a FAQ and the first question answered in the first post is "How Much Sleeving Should I Buy For My Sleeving Job?"

Anyway, since I'm replying anyway, might as well help with a chart











You first figure out exactly which cables you want to sleeve. Then for each cable multiply the number of pins times the length.

For example, for the motherboard main power, you multiply the blue number by the red number: 24 * 700 = 16800 mm, or about 17 metres, or about 55 feet.

Add up all the numbers for your choice of cables, and then add like 10% in case of mistakes.


----------



## clipse84

The reason I ask because I just order my psu so I couldn't measure it cause it hasn't been delivered yet, I just wanted to get ahead of the game thanks for the help(^o^)


----------



## Natskyge

question:

which is easiest to sleeve silverstone strider plus 1000w, silverstone strider gold 1000w or strider gold evolution 1000W?
also i read on the first page you can just cut the capastitators of, no fidiling and soldering required?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Natskyge*
> 
> question:
> 
> which is easiest to sleeve silverstone strider plus 1000w, silverstone strider gold 1000w or strider gold evolution 1000W?
> also i read on the first page you can just cut the capastitators of, no fidiling and soldering required?


Pretty sure they all have exactly the same cables. Capacitors on PCIe can be removed just by snipping.


----------



## Natskyge

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Pretty sure they all have exactly the same cables. Capacitors on PCIe can be removed just by snipping.


thanks +1 rep


----------



## Buska103

3-pin connectors on MAINFrameCustoms cost 60 cents each... doesn't sound like a lot, but when you need about 25 of them, it adds up.... if you don't mind me asking Lutro0, is the Molex part 538-50-29-1558 basically the same thing as what you're selling, or does it have a flaw? Because 4 cents for a _black original Molex-manufactered_ connector seems like a steal.

25 MFC 3-pin black fan connectors for $15 w/o shipping (I'll be making an order anyway so doesn't matter)... or _literally_ 263 Molex manufactured 3-pin black fan connectors for $14.99 including shipping from another site.... hmmmmmmmmmm....









Just wondering!


----------



## SeahawkCustom

Its about the same part.also molex sells all the parts needed to sleeve a PSU.also try jab-tech out they are closing doors and all parts are much cheaper. But Lutro0 sells awesome stuff and I only buy from him most of the time just a great guy help any one...buska103


----------



## SeahawkCustom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> 3-pin connectors on MAINFrameCustoms cost 60 cents each... doesn't sound like a lot, but when you need about 25 of them, it adds up.... if you don't mind me asking Lutro0, is the Molex part 538-50-29-1558 basically the same thing as what you're selling, or does it have a flaw? Because 4 cents for a _black original Molex-manufactered_ connector seems like a steal.
> 
> 25 MFC 3-pin black fan connectors for $15 w/o shipping (I'll be making an order anyway so doesn't matter)... or _literally_ 263 Molex manufactured 3-pin black fan connectors for $14.99 including shipping from another site.... hmmmmmmmmmm....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buska103*
> 
> 3-pin connectors on MAINFrameCustoms cost 60 cents each... doesn't sound like a lot, but when you need about 25 of them, it adds up.... if you don't mind me asking Lutro0, is the Molex part 538-50-29-1558 basically the same thing as what you're selling, or does it have a flaw? Because 4 cents for a _black original Molex-manufactered_ connector seems like a steal.
> 
> 25 MFC 3-pin black fan connectors for $15 w/o shipping (I'll be making an order anyway so doesn't matter)... or _literally_ 263 Molex manufactured 3-pin black fan connectors for $14.99 including shipping from another site.... hmmmmmmmmmm....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering!


There's two things here.

Firstly, the obvious: the Molex part is plain nylon, what is called 'ivory' colour; while Lutro0 sells black coloured fan housings.

Secondly: economies of scale. Lutro0 runs a specialist webshop for a niche hobby. He has a few guys in his employ and probably despite his relatively high price of 3-pin connectors, his overall margins are probably low. While Mouser is a massive operation, moving millions of electronics parts globally every day. It's like your local bookstore versus Amazon. When I just looked, they had 16000 of those fan connectors in stock in their European warehouse. They buy in bulk from Molex, and someone like Lutro0 can't compete. He probably has to order from Mouser himself, since they are the distributor.

What shops like Lutro0's do for you as a customer, is put all the things you need for sleeving together in one place. So you are assured, when you order, that the part number is correct and compatible with the methods we use. Lutro0 is also somewhat active in the community, and his videos have inspired hundreds if not thousands of people to sleeve. Sure you can save money by buying pins and connectors from a warehouse supplier. If you give your money to Mouser they don't care about our hobby, they are just a warehouse moving goods from manufacturer to customer.

Having said that, I never buy wire from sleeving shops, nor tools that I could pick up myself at a local hardware store


----------



## Buska103

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There's two things here.
> 
> Firstly, the obvious: the Molex part is plain nylon, what is called 'ivory' colour; while Lutro0 sells black coloured fan housings.
> 
> Secondly: economies of scale. Lutro0 runs a specialist webshop for a niche hobby. He has a few guys in his employ and probably despite his relatively high price of 3-pin connectors, his overall margins are probably low. While Mouser is a massive operation, moving millions of electronics parts globally every day. It's like your local bookstore versus Amazon. When I just looked, they had 16000 of those fan connectors in stock in their European warehouse. They buy in bulk from Molex, and someone like Lutro0 can't compete. He probably has to order from Mouser himself, since they are the distributor.
> 
> What shops like Lutro0's do for you as a customer, is put all the things you need for sleeving together in one place. So you are assured, when you order, that the part number is correct and compatible with the methods we use. Lutro0 is also somewhat active in the community, and his videos have inspired hundreds if not thousands of people to sleeve. Sure you can save money by buying pins and connectors from a warehouse supplier. If you give your money to Mouser they don't care about our hobby, they are just a warehouse moving goods from manufacturer to customer.
> 
> Having said that, I never buy wire from sleeving shops, nor tools that I could pick up myself at a local hardware store


Understood, understood, but I would be much more comfortable buying enough 3-pin connectors for the rest of my life, rather than paying more for a quantity just for this one project.
Just to quantify this... I have 100 3-pins connectors from Mouser for a total of $3.80. Tack of $3.99 for shipping and I'm floating under $8. MFC comparison? 25 x $.60 ea = $15 (not inc. shipping because I'm ordering other stuff from there anyway).... Half cheaper, four times more! Especially if they are both still Molex quality








Sorry.. but no!









By the way, the product (50-29-1558) I linked previously isn't actually Nylon colored, you have to click into the data sheet to see that "Color - Resin Black". 22-01-3037 is the one that is "Color - Resin Ntural (White)".


----------



## Himo5

White connectors and wire are very easy to dye to the exact color you want, so if you're going to buy in bulk its a good idea to buy white.


----------



## Lutro0

I think WISK explained it pretty solid, however I wanted to update everyone that I no longer personally run the retail side of MainFrame Customs - I have moved back home to take care of my mom who has MS and is getting worse. However I am still doing custom cables under lutro0 customs. This allows me to spend more time on the forums and help people learn how to sleeve again.

(Note to the moderators: I am not advertising just making sure people know the right info, thanks)


----------



## bfedorov11

I ordered "mod/smart Kobra MaxCord High Density Coreless Paracord 16 - 18AWG Sleeving 1/8in." If I flatten it out it measures 1/4. Is this normal or did I receive the wrong size?


----------



## kernel G

1/8" is the diameter. What you're measuring when you flatten it out is 1/2 of the circumference.
When you take a circle and smush it down, it gets longer!


----------



## bfedorov11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> 1/8" is the diameter. What you're measuring when you flatten it out is 1/2 of the circumference.
> When you take a circle and smush it down, it gets longer!


/facepalm

It still seems really loose though. I guess I was just expecting a tighter fit.


----------



## kernel G

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> It still seems really loose though. I guess I was just expecting a tighter fit.


Have you tried stretching it?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I have moved back home to take care of my mom who has MS and is getting worse.


Sorry to hear this Mike; I wish you strength and health to your Mom









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bfedorov11*
> 
> /facepalm
> 
> It still seems really loose though. I guess I was just expecting a tighter fit.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kernel G*
> 
> Have you tried stretching it?


This ^

Stretching is an important step. Although it's not always mentioned explicitly, the method can be seen in Lutro0's videos.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> I think WISK explained it pretty solid, however I wanted to update everyone that I no longer personally run the retail side of MainFrame Customs - I have moved back home to take care of my mom who has MS and is getting worse. However I am still doing custom cables under lutro0 customs. This allows me to spend more time on the forums and help people learn how to sleeve again.
> 
> (Note to the moderators: I am not advertising just making sure people know the right info, thanks)


Aaaaahhhhhhhhh I thought you'd been a bit quiet lately. This explains so much. Are you able to check PMs on OCN any more?


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> Aaaaahhhhhhhhh I thought you'd been a bit quiet lately. This explains so much. Are you able to check PMs on OCN any more?


Yes but I need to use my little time that i have right now to the best of my ability. I moved a 9 office huge workshop filled with buis stuff to a house which we filled as well, and now I have an small office were I do my sleeving, and one small storage room and my bedroom at my moms ( i am living with her for now to take care of her and spend the remaining time I have left with her. ) which the bed in my bedroom take up 75% of the room.

What I need to do now is rebuild my business all over again this time only doing custom modding not much retail, sell off a ton of hardware and tools and such, find a part time job - all while trying to take care of my moms house and basically do everything for her as much as i can.

eventually I want to get back and redo all of my guides & videos and website, purchase a cnc, sublimation printer, and a new laser. I also want to set up as a repair shop here as well as get back to spending time in the forums, but everything else needs to be done first


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yes but I need to use my little time that i have right now to the best of my ability. I moved a 9 office huge workshop filled with buis stuff to a house which we filled as well, and now I have an small office were I do my sleeving, and one small storage room and my bedroom at my moms ( i am living with her for now to take care of her and spend the remaining time I have left with her. ) which the bed in my bedroom take up 75% of the room.
> 
> What I need to do now is rebuild my business all over again this time only doing custom modding not much retail, sell off a ton of hardware and tools and such, find a part time job - all while trying to take care of my moms house and basically do everything for her as much as i can.
> 
> eventually I want to get back and redo all of my guides & videos and website, purchase a cnc, sublimation printer, and a new laser. I also want to set up as a repair shop here as well as get back to spending time in the forums, but everything else needs to be done first


that makes sense. i guess i'll hit you up in the next several months and see where your at if that's okay.


----------



## Funny5

I have a problem with sleeving this cable picture attached
No problem with sleeving all cables but PCI E 6 pin to 6/8 and 6/8 I really have difficulties
Hopefully anyone can show a video or explain how your done SINGLE cable sleeving with this kind of cables
Or
1) another way can I use this extention cable (picture 1) ( I will just sleeve it and connect to my original cable ) is that will work?
2) buy two separate extention cables (picture 2) sleeve them and same add to my two connectors

My cable


Extention cable (picture 1)


Extention cable (buy 2 cables) (picture 2)


Thank you


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Funny5*
> 
> I have a problem with sleeving this cable picture attached
> No problem with sleeving all cables but PCI E 6 pin to 6/8 and 6/8 I really have difficulties
> Hopefully anyone can show a video or explain how your done SINGLE cable sleeving with this kind of cables
> Or
> 1) another way can I use this extention cable (picture 1) ( I will just sleeve it and connect to my original cable ) is that will work?
> 2) buy two separate extention cables (picture 2) sleeve them and same add to my two connectors
> 
> Thank you


I would leave the middle one intact and remove the other 2 connectors and sleeve from each ends.
If all else fails, use heatshrink to cover up the part where the sleeve from the 2 cables meet.


----------



## Funny5

So is it much better to buy two extention cables and sleeve them?

THank you


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Funny5*
> 
> So you don't recomended to me to buy extention cables? because in my think I guess it will be much easier cuz my original cable will be on bottom andI could see that and my extention two cables will be connected to my video card which I can see of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THank you


If you got the space to hide the extention cables, then by all means, get them.


----------



## Funny5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> I would leave the middle one intact and remove the other 2 connectors and sleeve from each ends.
> If all else fails, use heatshrink to cover up the part where the sleeve from the 2 cables meet.


So is it much better to buy two extention cables and sleeve them?

THank you


----------



## Funny5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> If you got the space to hide the extention cables, then by all means, get them.


I had looking for 8 pin to 8 pin and 6 to 6 but problems is all cables with one female and male ends but my PSU is fully modular and cable must have male connector and question how can I connect cable from PSU to Video card if cable has got only one male connector but Video card and PSU have male too so that mean I only have to make cable by my self and I dont know how and I dont have a tools for that, or buy extention and hide on bottom my original and attach 2 extention cables.

Hopefully you understand what I mean my english is not native language))
Thank you


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Funny5*
> 
> I had looking for 8 pin to 8 pin and 6 to 6 but problems is all cables with one female and male ends but my PSU is fully modular and cable must have male connector and question how can I connect cable from PSU to Video card if cable has got only one male connector but Video card and PSU have male too so that mean I only have to make cable by my self and I dont know how and I dont have a tools for that, or buy extention and hide on bottom my original and attach 2 extention cables.
> 
> Hopefully you understand what I mean my english is not native language))
> Thank you


Female-Male is extender cable, so you can do this with it.


----------



## Funny5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> Female-Male is extender cable, so you can do this with it.


Yeah that what I mean but how it will work if I buy separately two extended female 6 pins to 8 male pins and how to connect them to my cable which come from PSU? it has two "Y" 8 male pins in both ends. I should connect my two cables to both male ends of original cable and cut off 2 pins in each cable? is that right right?
I really apologize for that but I kinda ****** about cables
Just need to be sure that will work.
Picture attached


----------



## Chiobe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Funny5*
> 
> Yeah that what I mean but how it will work if I buy separately two extended female 6 pins to 8 male pins and how to connect them to my cable which come from PSU? it has two "Y" 8 male pins in both ends. I should connect my two cables to both male ends of original cable and cut off 2 pins in each cable? is that right right?
> I really apologize for that but I kinda ****** about cables
> Just need to be sure that will work.
> Picture attached


If your video card uses 8 pins, then just get an 8 pin extender, like this:
http://www.icemodz.com/#!/Icemodz-Value-8-pin-Pcie-Extension-Cable-30cm/p/46345422/category=12001336


----------



## Funny5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chiobe*
> 
> If your video card uses 8 pins, then just get an 8 pin extender, like this:
> http://www.icemodz.com/#!/Icemodz-Value-8-pin-Pcie-Extension-Cable-30cm/p/46345422/category=12001336


My video card using 8 and 6 pins


----------



## knightsilver

(7-20-15) Where's a good/reputable online/seller for Beige Paracord 550?


----------



## Kenshiro 26

Paracord Planet has a variety of colors/designs, not sure if they have the color you're looking for.

https://www.paracordplanet.com/


----------



## nigelke

Hi all,

been looking into this once again but there is just 1 thing thats not clear...
I notice when talking about what kind of wire to use, you speak of 16 tot 18AWG...
But what is that in terms of mm²?

Like is 16AWG == 1mm²?

I am not sure how to make the correct conversion









Furthermore great stuf and information here! (And if this has been asked before sorry about that I must have missed it







)


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nigelke*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> been looking into this once again but there is just 1 thing thats not clear...
> I notice when talking about what kind of wire to use, you speak of 16 tot 18AWG...
> But what is that in terms of mm²?
> 
> Like is 16AWG == 1mm²?
> 
> I am not sure how to make the correct conversion
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Furthermore great stuf and information here! (And if this has been asked before sorry about that I must have missed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Officially 18 AWG should be 0.81mm2 cross-section, but it's not so cheap to import American spec wires if living outside US. I use 0.75mm2 almost exclusively for several years now and no problems for any PSUs or hardware combinations.

If you must go bigger, 16 AWG equivalent is between 1mm2 and 1.5mm2. There is no electrical advantage since the MiniFitJr pins are the limiting factor, and generally sleeving stores sell the 18AWG pins. Important thing for thicker wire is to make sure is that the overall outside diameter of the insulation is 2.4mm or less.

Fan wires incidentally are 0.14mm2 in metric size.


----------



## nigelke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Officially 18 AWG should be 0.81mm2 cross-section, but it's not so cheap to import American spec wires if living outside US. I use 0.75mm2 almost exclusively for several years now and no problems for any PSUs or hardware combinations.
> 
> If you must go bigger, 16 AWG equivalent is between 1mm2 and 1.5mm2. There is no electrical advantage since the MiniFitJr pins are the limiting factor, and generally sleeving stores sell the 18AWG pins. Important thing for thicker wire is to make sure is that the overall outside diameter of the insulation is 2.4mm or less.
> 
> Fan wires incidentally are 0.14mm2 in metric size.


thanks, this actually makes sence! Just what I needed to know. (and since I see you are from the Netherlands: http://www.conrad.be/ce/nl/product/1178883/ this is what came to mind when you said 0.81mm². Ordering from US is indeed to expensive, Netherlands, Germany, Belguim combining them and wel you can find almost everything oh and china ofcours







)
Now just need to order some stuff


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nigelke*
> 
> thanks, this actually makes sence! Just what I needed to know. (and since I see you are from the Netherlands: http://www.conrad.be/ce/nl/product/1178883/ this is what came to mind when you said 0.81mm². Ordering from US is indeed to expensive, Netherlands, Germany, Belguim combining them and wel you can find almost everything oh and china ofcours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Now just need to order some stuff


I'm afraid that wire you linked is terrible for sleeving. Outer diameter is too narrow, 1.6mm will make the sleeves look anemic. Because it's 0.82mm2 so it's 18AWG and you can tell indeed that it's imported from US: 62 euro for 30 meters it's over 2 euros per meter. No reason to throw away money just for an extra couple of copper strands in the bundle.

Here, have a look at this what I ordered last from Conrad for sleeving purposes. It's 2.20 outer diameter so will give nice sleeve size once stretched. 5 euros for 25 meters. http://www.conrad.nl/nl/draad-lify-1-x-075-mm-wit-conrad-93014c714-25-m-607713.html
(I ordered white, but I'm sure it's available in black too.)


----------



## nigelke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm afraid that wire you linked is terrible for sleeving. Outer diameter is too narrow, 1.6mm will make the sleeves look anemic. Because it's 0.82mm2 so it's 18AWG and you can tell indeed that it's imported from US: 62 euro for 30 meters it's over 2 euros per meter. No reason to throw away money just for an extra couple of copper strands in the bundle.
> 
> Here, have a look at this what I ordered last from Conrad for sleeving purposes. It's 2.20 outer diameter so will give nice sleeve size once stretched. 5 euros for 25 meters. http://www.conrad.nl/nl/draad-lify-1-x-075-mm-wit-conrad-93014c714-25-m-607713.html
> (I ordered white, but I'm sure it's available in black too.)


Thanks Wisk


----------



## Funny5




----------



## yoi

i got a question ...

...is there a cable extension tester of some sort ? or something close to it ?


----------



## longroadtrip

You can use a PSU tester or a multimeter.


----------



## Delta6326

I read the first page, but couldn't find any information.
What is a recommended length to shorten on the inside bend cables? I'm going to cut my long wires at 10". should I cut the inside bend ones at 9.75"?

Thank You.


----------



## Himo5

There's no simple answer to a question like this because by the time you've managed to define exactly what kind of bend and how uniformly each of the wires follow it you would already have your own answer.

One thing you know is that it is the length of the wires you want and not the sleeving. The sleeving length is determined by the length of the wire.

The best way to get your answer is to crimp and install one end of the wires and then tape them into the shape you want the cable to form. (If you don't fancy depinning the first connector afterwards you can emulate it with masking tape instead.) You will then be able to see exactly where each wire needs to be cut.

Your only problem then will be to label each wire and make sure you can put it where you labelled it.


----------



## Delta6326

Ok, gotcha, will do some testing then. Thanks for the info.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delta6326*
> 
> I read the first page, but couldn't find any information.
> What is a recommended length to shorten on the inside bend cables? I'm going to cut my long wires at 10". should I cut the inside bend ones at 9.75"?
> 
> Thank You.


Himo5 is right, you need to test things out yourself, but it is possible to calculate the minimum inside bend radius.

Because the inner wires in the connector are 4.2mm closer than the outside wires, you can use the formula for the circumference of a circle _C = 2πr_ and solve for the difference in radius.

_r1 - r2 = 4.2mm
Ci = 2πr1 - 2πr2
= 2π(r1 - r2)
= 2π(4.2mm)
= 26.39mm (or about 1"1/32 imperial)_

That's for a whole circle mind you, whereas your bend will be only 180 degrees, so you can halve this value. On the other hand Lutro0 and BigElf advised that the calculation for a full circle was ideal for a half circle, from their experience sleeving longer wires. It gives you more play.

*TL;DR between a half and a whole inch less on the inner wires; the important thing is consistency in measurement.*


----------



## billyboy8888

I'm thinking of getting the Lian-Li PC-Q26 case and build a server out of it. It places all 10 HDD in a single vertical columb, so I'm thinking of getting powering all 10 HDD through a single cable.



So I have few questions before I do something stupid.

First question is whether a single SATA power outlet on the PSU can handle 50W ~ 100W? All 10 drivers running simoultaneously draw at least 50W, maybe even close to 100W. Would a regular SATA power port on a 500W - 700W PSU be suffice?

Second question is how high I should go with wire gauge?

Third and the most important one, is it really safe or sketchy?

Thanks


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

You should be able to handle 10 HDDs on a single cable, depending on how much current your PSU can handle per socket and how long the overall length of the cable is. Using specs for WD Blacks (which I happened to have on hand), which are probably as thirsty of a drive as you will encounter, you would use up to 107W for 10 HDDs while running (spin up wattage will be higher). While a small part of that wattage is taken off the 5v rail, to keep calculations simpler, assume that all of it comes from the 12v rail. 107W at 12v is a hair under 9A. Most PSUs can handle up to 16-20A per socket (depending on the PSU) so the PSU probably won't be an issue.

A bigger issue would be wire size and voltage drop. If the wire size isn't big enough, the load you're proposing can cause a slight voltage drop which could interfere with the operation of the HDDs, such as causing occasional dropouts. While I'm too lazy to do the math here (plus I need to hit the shower soon, then run errands), I did make a cable with 9 sockets on it and did the math for it, assuming that one of the drives on that cable would be a SSD. #16 would have been just barely big enough to keep the output voltage within ATX standards but I went with #14 just to be sure since I tend to be cautious (more like paranoid?). In your case, you probably should stay with #14.

Any hardware store should have #14 hookup wire. Sometimes automotive wire wii have thinner insulation. It is possible to crimp any old pins onto #14 for connector going into the PSU but it will be easier if you use pins from MainFrame Customs. They have slightly longer "wings" to make crimping to larger wire easier.

I would use connectors from modDIY for the SATA power connectors. Although modDIY has other, similar connectors, I've found this particular style will handle larger wire better although, for #14, I found it necessary to strip the insulation from the wire where it gets punched down into the connector body. I've found a 4 pin fan pin removal tool to be the best tool for punching down the wire into the connectors although a thick, flat screw driver blade can also be used. Be gentle when punching down the wire and drive it in only enough to barely bottom out in the connector.


----------



## Anateus

I have two sets of cables for my AX860. Stock, and Corsair custom sleeved. I noticed that sata power and molex have different pinouts on both sets. For an example MOLEX pinout for stock cables skips pin #2 and #4, while custom sleeved ones skip pins #5 and #6.
Are they same?

Also, how do I check for any problems with my new sleeving (I've redone whole set to fit it inside mITX case, and I'm worried I might have done something wrong). Can I use multimeter to check all the pins? How do I go about that?
Lastly, there is AX860 listed in Pinout Repository, but there is no pinout for 860. Only 850 - are they same?

Thanks!


----------



## Higgins909

I've been thinking about getting into making some custom cables, as my cx430m isn't quite as neat with all slots used.
But I have to ask, is it really this expensive? For what ever reason I was imagining 20-50cent per piece, more for-
bigger connectors like the 24 pin, then shipping. Seeing sata splitters for $3 when its got wires and has been crafted-
by someone makes me wonder.

It looks like the grand total will be about $16~ with several feet of wire left.
The wire would be bought from hardware store while other stuff on internet.
crimp sata x3
molex 4p to power fans x1
6 pin pcie to plug into psu x1
pins for 6 pin pcie x2 because its 3 pins per thing

Is it normal to pay such a price?


----------



## g.androider

Hi,

Can we use paracord to sleeve USB-to-Mini-USB cable?

Thank you


----------



## Mack42

Hi,

I am planning to buy 18awg wire. Available diameters: 1.7mm, 2.0mm, 2.2mm, 2.4mm.

Which diameter to choose? Will crimp tool (that I also need to buy) work better with smaller diameter wires? I probably will try heatshrinkless. Also plan to use Telios sleeve (4mm). I guess it will look a bit empty if I choose small wire diameter? Perhaps a 3mm sleeve is better?


----------



## Mack42

Another question... I saw a 18awg wire, but labeled as "highly flexible", having 385 strands inside, each 0.05mm I believe. Cross area still 0.75mm2.

I guess how many strands are inside doesn't matter?


----------



## Anateus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> Another question... I saw a 18awg wire, but labeled as "highly flexible", having 385 strands inside, each 0.05mm I believe. Cross area still 0.75mm2.
> 
> I guess how many strands are inside doesn't matter?


Can't tell, but I wouldn't go after flexible wires (mainly those silicone coated IIRC). I had serious problems with inserting sleeved flexible wire inside connectors, it would just kink and wouldn't get inside. Read sleeving FAQ to pick best wires. Or just buy it from sleeving supplier like gosumodz.


----------



## Mack42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Can't tell, but I wouldn't go after flexible wires (mainly those silicone coated IIRC). I had serious problems with inserting sleeved flexible wire inside connectors, it would just kink and wouldn't get inside. Read sleeving FAQ to pick best wires. Or just buy it from sleeving supplier like gosumodz.


Yeah, I can imagine too soft would cause problems.

In the end I went for standard 2.2mm 18AWG wire. Being in Europe I ordered the 0.75mm2, with 24 strands inside, recommended by Wisk. Haven't received the reel yet, but I'll soon find out. In the end you need to have the right combination of wire, crimp tool and terminal connectors to succeed. I was just surprised how hard it was to find the wire... None of the standard shops carry it here, and it took ages to find a distributor. Felt a bit ridiculous to order wire from abroad.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anateus*
> 
> Can't tell, but I wouldn't go after flexible wires (mainly those silicone coated IIRC). I had serious problems with inserting sleeved flexible wire inside connectors, it would just kink and wouldn't get inside. Read sleeving FAQ to pick best wires. Or just buy it from sleeving supplier like gosumodz.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I can imagine too soft would cause problems.
> 
> In the end I went for standard 2.2mm 18AWG wire. Being in Europe I ordered the 0.75mm2, with 24 strands inside, recommended by Wisk. Haven't received the reel yet, but I'll soon find out. In the end you need to have the right combination of wire, crimp tool and terminal connectors to succeed. I was just surprised how hard it was to find the wire... None of the standard shops carry it here, and it took ages to find a distributor. Felt a bit ridiculous to order wire from abroad.
Click to expand...

It also bites me how many items I have to order from China because I can't find them here in the good old U.S. of A. As far as wire being too flexible goes, you could always solder the flexible stuff to some stiffer wire and use the stiffer wire to pull the flexible wire through the sleeving, then cut off the stiffer wire.

There is technique to pushing sleeving over wiring. Good, braided sleeving will expand over wire so what you do is push the wire into the wire as far as it will let you, then hold the sleeving firmly to the wire at a point a little bit below the point where the wire ends inside the sleeving (how far depends on how flexible the wire is). With the other hand, grip the sleeving where the wire ends inside the sleeving and push the sleeving back toward the other hand. This will cause the sleeving to expand as it compresses over the wire. Lock the sleeving that you just pushed onto the wire with the same fingers that pushed it onto the wire and release it with the other hand. Use the hand that just released the wire to stroke the expanded sleeving further down the wire. It's easier to do than explain.

I've use this technique to push sleeving onto long lengths of wire (or groups of wires) and even push it over connectors then stretch it back down to the diameter of the wire or cable. It is easier if you haven't stripped the insulation of the wire. If you prefer to crimp the pin to the wire first, it will be easier if you put some thin tape, such as cellophane tape, over the pin to cover the snag points.


----------



## aftafoya

I'm looking to make custom sata data cables and am very particular about how they look. I prefer crimped vs push on as they are easy to add solder to, providing a better connection and added strength. The connectors I've seen on all the mod sites look to be the same as ones that I've pulled apart. My question is how to crimp something that small and where can I get extra pins in case I screw up? Here is an example of one of the pins, kinda hard to see the crimp but the wings are shaped to wrap around the solid wire.


----------



## Himo5

This was dealt with - without much success, I'm afraid - from Post 774 of this thread onwards in March, 2014. Maybe you can do something with the links there. Also, I recently found this very good HotMods video on shortening proslim mini sata data cables - which you may end up settling for.


----------



## aftafoya

I'm sorry, I was trying hard not to be too repetitive. I've been skimming the internet for the past few months and been getting nowhere. Has anyone tried the sata data connectors from mainframe customs or any of the other mod sites? I was just wondering if they are crimpable or if they are solder tabs. I can just buy a bunch of those and pull out the extra pins I need. I'm sure I can figure out how to crimp them myself, just don't want to waste the money if they are only solder tabs.


----------



## Himo5

At last I've found the second link I was looking for from back then, when I was asking the same question as you. There's a link there to soldering a Sata 2 data connection from 2007 and also to the Sata Data crimpable connectors that ModDiy sell. I even started thinking about building a crimper to do the job using PCI array blanking plates whose thickness matches the width of the crimping tags, but in the end I decided that the real place to shorten data cables was along the wire rather than at the connectors, using a bending point as the site for a junction box designed to fit the build and suit the difficulties of making the joint.


----------



## aftafoya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> At last I've found the second link I was looking for from back then, when I was asking the same question as you. There's a link there to soldering a Sata 2 data connection from 2007 and also to the Sata Data crimpable connectors that ModDiy sell. I even started thinking about building a crimper to do the job using PCI array blanking plates whose thickness matches the width of the crimping tags, but in the end I decided that the real place to shorten data cables was along the wire rather than at the connectors, using a bending point as the site for a junction box designed to fit the build and suit the difficulties of making the joint.


Thanks for the reply. I had seen that guide before. Problem is that it shows nothing about crimping it. It looks like he just solders it back together. I'm thinking I will just order a bunch of the connectors, pull the pins clamp them down and try to crimp them with pliers. I might try to make my own crimping tool. I'll update if I make any progress.


----------



## Himo5

Good luck. If you attempt a crimping tool you might consider a set of circlip pliers with removable heads as a basis for the mechanism.


----------



## yoi

Question:

where can i find SATA power male connector?

i did find the actual connector
http://www.moddiy.com/product_images/uploaded_images/d72dc800243bd49d2ffaf58ba7e16ba2.jpg

http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/983/379/381/381379983_315.JPG

but i cant find the cover :

http://usb.brando.com/prod_img/zoom/UCABL005000_02_L.jpg

does anyone have info on this?

thanks in advance


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoi*
> 
> Question:
> 
> where can i find SATA power male connector?
> 
> i did find the actual connector
> http://www.moddiy.com/product_images/uploaded_images/d72dc800243bd49d2ffaf58ba7e16ba2.jpg
> 
> http://i00.i.aliimg.com/img/pb/983/379/381/381379983_315.JPG
> 
> but i cant find the cover :
> 
> http://usb.brando.com/prod_img/zoom/UCABL005000_02_L.jpg
> 
> does anyone have info on this?
> 
> thanks in advance


The first two you linked are designed for board mounting, not for cables; there are no covers designed for them. The first one is pretty much impossible to crimp wires onto without a special tool I have yet to find and soldering wires to the terminals is iffy at best due to their close spacing (believe me, I've tried). The second one is designed to be soldered to a PCB.

I have searched high and low for male cable connectors and I have yet to find any. However, there is a way around the problem. Get a SATA power extension cable that has the male connector on one end and cut off the connector on the other end. They are easy to find inexpensively if you don't need anything very long. If the colored wires turn you off or show through your sleeving, a Black Sharpie felt pen will do a nice job of blackening the wires.

I did find a source for a cable that's just shy of 24" but it costs a bit more. If you don't like the sloppy looking sleeving on it, you can just remove it after cutting off the wrong connector. https://modmymods.com/phobya-sata-power-extension-internal-60cm-black.html

If you need a cable that is longer than the ModMyMods cable, just use a less expensive shorter cable and splice in longer wires. If you stagger the splices, they will be less likely to show bulges in the sleeving.

Btw, I suggest you avoid MODdiy whenever possible. Besides taking a long time to receive orders from China, if you ever have a problem with an order, it will just about take an act of God to get them to respond, let alone do anything. Also, not all of their product listings are accurate.


----------



## andydabeast

was hard to search such a large thread for this. On forzen cpu I see two 16awg wires

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/19819/wir-92/16AWG_High_Voltage_High_Temperature_UL3239_Silicone_Rubber_Wire_-_Black.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16411/ele-1114/16AWG_Hook_Up_UL1007_Approved_Wire_-_Black.html

one is much cheaper than the other. Is there a reason? recommendations? (heatshrinkless method with paracord)


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Frozen CPU has had some serious problems in the past year or so and is not to be trusted anymore (or, at least, for a while longer).

You can get some excellent wire with thin insulation that makes it easer to crimp pins onto for a good price from MainFrame customs.


----------



## andydabeast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Frozen CPU has had some serious problems in the past year or so and is not to be trusted anymore (or, at least, for a while longer).
> 
> You can get some excellent wire with thin insulation that makes it easer to crimp pins onto for a good price from MainFrame customs.


Thanks for the information! That is sad because they have lots of stuff.


----------



## andydabeast

I know you say "bic" lighter but will a zippo work to melt para-cord easily? I already have one thats empty so I need to ether buy fuel for it or buy a bic.

Also, I was walking through home depot and found some 16AWG wire for cheap and picked it up. You talked a lot about finding the perfect kind of wire but if I understand that was for the wire coating to be thinner for easier connection into the connector?
I guess what I am asking is if I can go wrong from an electrical perspective just picking up cheap wire. (going with heatshrinkless para-cord method)

thanks


----------



## andydabeast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andydabeast*
> 
> I know you say "bic" lighter but will a zippo work to melt para-cord easily? I already have one thats empty so I need to ether buy fuel for it or buy a bic.
> 
> Also, I was walking through home depot and found some 16AWG wire for cheap and picked it up. You talked a lot about finding the perfect kind of wire but if I understand that was for the wire coating to be thinner for easier connection into the connector?
> I guess what I am asking is if I can go wrong from an electrical perspective just picking up cheap wire. (going with heatshrinkless para-cord method)
> 
> thanks


Bump. The zippo is great because I can leave it on and standing up with two hands for the cable (gets super hot to touch tho).

Also, maybe I am doing it wrong, but I cannot make the Hans Long HT-225D crimper get the long wings to make the heart shape. They will not curl into the wire so one overlaps the other and one wing breaks off after the crimp is done. Any suggestions? The wire part is still gripped firmly and as a test I got pliers and tried to rip the wire from the pin. It took a considerable amount of force and strength so if I made my cables this way they would never break.



I followed this video exactly


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andydabeast*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *andydabeast*
> 
> I know you say "bic" lighter but will a zippo work to melt para-cord easily? I already have one thats empty so I need to ether buy fuel for it or buy a bic.
> 
> Also, I was walking through home depot and found some 16AWG wire for cheap and picked it up. You talked a lot about finding the perfect kind of wire but if I understand that was for the wire coating to be thinner for easier connection into the connector?
> I guess what I am asking is if I can go wrong from an electrical perspective just picking up cheap wire. (going with heatshrinkless para-cord method)
> 
> thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bump. The zippo is great because I can leave it on and standing up with two hands for the cable (gets super hot to touch tho).
> 
> Also, maybe I am doing it wrong, but I cannot make the Hans Long HT-225D crimper get the long wings to make the heart shape. They will not curl into the wire so one overlaps the other and one wing breaks off after the crimp is done. Any suggestions? The wire part is still gripped firmly and as a test I got pliers and tried to rip the wire from the pin. It took a considerable amount of force and strength so if I made my cables this way they would never break.
> 
> 
> 
> I followed this video exactly
Click to expand...

If you are using the pins from Mainframe Customs, I had the same problem with them. They appear to be a bit brittle and the insulation wings are too short for larger sized wires.


----------



## Big Elf

The Han Lon HT-225D crimper will never 'curl' the wings on the pin as the dies are flat and don't have the little 'bump' that causes the wing to make the heart shape. All the wings do with that tool is overlap.

I've used that tool and was easily able to pull the pin off the wire when stretching the paracord or PET sleeving tightly onto the wire.

If you find the wings break with that tool, the Lutro/MDPC-X tool or the SN-28B then the dies need adjusting. Somewhere in this forum is a guide on how to adjust the Lutro/MDPC-X crimper.

Edit; *Adjusting the MDPC-X Tool*


----------



## jsutter71

Just to chime in about parachute cord sleeving. I've discovered that 275 cord or smaller gauge wire, gives the best results. Using 275 cord I am able to crimp the sleeving directly into the pin. No more issues with making the correct size bump to go into the connector housing. I just give it a quick burn with the lighter to remove any frays. Here are a couple pics of my results.


Here is a pic of my wire next to a precrimped wire I purchased from Primochill. Can you tell which is the one I made and which is the precrimped wire.


This is a MOLEX power to SATA power cable I made to power my Aquaero 6 XT. The SATA will plug into my new USB hub



Quick note on Crimpers. I've used the blue set I purchased from PPCS, A $200 Greenlee set I purchased from Amazon, and Lutro's recommended MFC crimpers that I purchased from Mainframe. IMHO the Greenlee and MFC crimpers are similar in my results with 18-22 gauge wire crimps. The one I purchased from PPCS is good but not great. I've discovered that I am able to get decent and consistent crimps with all three as long as the pins are properly positioned. The Greenlee crimper was over tightened when I first received it so I had to make adjustments. Another issue I found is using SATA EZ crimp connectors. I had a lot of problems with these connectors with the wire not properly connecting inside the terminal. Instead of purchased a punch down tool, I was able to find the MOLEX tool for this purpose. Here is the link.
http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0638133503_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.xml
http://www.ttiinc.com/page/search_advpart.html?partsNumber=63813-3503&mfgShortname=MOL
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/63813-3503/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugvUfN6a7U0yOCF3Jw30AB6n4tyVkMnLEI%3d


----------



## andydabeast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The Han Lon HT-225D crimper will never 'curl' the wings on the pin as the dies are flat and don't have the little 'bump' that causes the wing to make the heart shape. All the wings do with that tool is overlap.
> 
> I've used that tool and was easily able to pull the pin off the wire when stretching the paracord or PET sleeving tightly onto the wire.
> 
> If you find the wings break with that tool, the Lutro/MDPC-X tool or the SN-28B then the dies need adjusting. Somewhere in this forum is a guide on how to adjust the Lutro/MDPC-X crimper.
> 
> Edit; *Adjusting the MDPC-X Tool*


I actually have adjusted the dies, but that link explains it nicely. I am using the recommended pins-

https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Crimp-Terminal-Female-Piece/dp/B0163MAUQW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=AELLOY6K8XB8X

I will check again but my pins seem to still be gripping the wire enough to never come loose even with the overlap and one wing breaking. All it needs to do is grip enough to not let go right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Just to chime in about parachute cord sleeving. I've discovered that 275 cord or smaller gauge wire, gives the best results. Using 275 cord I am able to crimp the sleeving directly into the pin. No more issues with making the correct size bump to go into the connector housing. I just give it a quick burn with the lighter to remove any frays. Here are a couple pics of my results.
> 
> 
> Here is a pic of my wire next to a precrimped wire I purchased from Primochill. Can you tell which is the one I made and which is the precrimped wire.
> 
> 
> This is a MOLEX power to SATA power cable I made to power my Aquaero 6 XT. The SATA will plug into my new USB hub
> 
> 
> 
> Quick note on Crimpers. I've used the blue set I purchased from PPCS, A $200 Greenlee set I purchased from Amazon, and Lutro's recommended MFC crimpers that I purchased from Mainframe. IMHO the Greenlee and MFC crimpers are similar in my results with 18-22 gauge wire crimps. The one I purchased from PPCS is good but not great. I've discovered that I am able to get decent and consistent crimps with all three as long as the pins are properly positioned. The Greenlee crimper was over tightened when I first received it so I had to make adjustments. Another issue I found is using SATA EZ crimp connectors. I had a lot of problems with these connectors with the wire not properly connecting inside the terminal. Instead of purchased a punch down tool, I was able to find the MOLEX tool for this purpose. Here is the link.
> http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0638133503_APPLICATION_TOOLIN.xml
> http://www.ttiinc.com/page/search_advpart.html?partsNumber=63813-3503&mfgShortname=MOL
> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/63813-3503/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugvUfN6a7U0yOCF3Jw30AB6n4tyVkMnLEI%3d


WOW interesting! no way I could do that with my thick wire tho. Looks great!


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andydabeast*
> 
> I actually have adjusted the dies, but that link explains it nicely. I am using the recommended pins-
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Molex-Crimp-Terminal-Female-Piece/dp/B0163MAUQW?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_1&smid=AELLOY6K8XB8X
> 
> I will check again but my pins seem to still be gripping the wire enough to never come loose even with the overlap and one wing breaking. All it needs to do is grip enough to not let go right?
> WOW interesting! no way I could do that with my thick wire tho. Looks great!


You might be surprised. The wire in the picture is 18 gauge. Even if your using 16 gauge, it is not a huge difference. 275 cord stretches enough to work with that gauge. for thinner 22 gauge such as fan cables, I use 95 cord.

I have had a lot of trial and error with with crimping. I have hand trimmers, so I've watched a lot of YouTube videos to try and figure out the best methods that work for me. I generally follow Lutro's videos.


----------



## andydabeast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> You might be surprised. The wire in the picture is 18 gauge. Even if your using 16 gauge, it is not a huge difference. 275 cord stretches enough to work with that gauge. for thinner 22 gauge such as fan cables, I use 95 cord.
> 
> I have had a lot of trial and error with with crimping. I have hand trimmers, so I've watched a lot of YouTube videos to try and figure out the best methods that work for me. I generally follow Lutro's videos.


Thanks for the advice. I will try and crimp my 550 paracord in with my 16awg wire and see if it holds and plugs in. Would be great to eliminate the whole melting and shaping the ends step (I am going heatshrinkless) I don't understand why people want heatshrink because I love the clean look of heatshrinkless.


----------



## jsutter71

I Just received my MOLEX insertion tool for SATA power inline connectors. The tool is very nice quality and has some weight to it. Here are some pics.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> I Just received my MOLEX insertion tool for SATA power inline connectors. The tool is very nice quality and has some weight to it. Here are some pics.


That's the first tool I've seen designed for this kind of connector and it looks pretty slick. I've had excellent results using a four pin fan pin removal tool:




The best part about this tool is I already had it; it is part of a four tool set I bought a few years ago.


----------



## jsutter71

After my last post I tried it out and was very impressed. It made the process much easier.


----------



## jsutter71

Here is a quick shot of the cables I made using the MOLEX brand insertion tool. The EZ crimp connectors are also MOLEX brand.


----------



## Radmanhs

I have a question. Is mdpc-x sleeving isopropyl alcohol safe, or will it cause problems? I am making rca cables and couldn't use a piece of heatshrink short enough to get a good look, so to hold it still for a short amount of time I used a little superglue. However, it seeped a lot deeper than I thought it would, and now you can see the glue outside of the connector and it is really bugging me


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radmanhs*
> 
> I have a question. Is mdpc-x sleeving isopropyl alcohol safe, or will it cause problems? I am making rca cables and couldn't use a piece of heatshrink short enough to get a good look, so to hold it still for a short amount of time I used a little superglue. However, it seeped a lot deeper than I thought it would, and now you can see the glue outside of the connector and it is really bugging me


I believe MDPC is made from PET (polyethylene terephthalate) so it should be okay to be washed with isopropyl alcohol for a bit.

"Melting" superglue with isopropyl will still leave residue however, you will need to figure out a way to remove that without leaving the connector more ugly than it was.


----------



## colinreay

Does anyone know how Lutro0 is doing? His guides have been a lifesaver for me, and he seems like a genuinely nice and funny dude. I saw that in his last post over a year ago he talked about talking care of his mom - hope he's doing well.


----------



## DangGucci

This is going to be my sleeving Bible..I'm going for a Black and White pattern









I searched google and the forums for my question, but haven't seen it come up... is it possible to sleeve a cable that splits/daisies like SATA power cables?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DangGucci*
> 
> ... is it possible to sleeve a cable that splits/daisies like SATA power cables?


Have a look at 'How To Sleeve Sata Pass-Through or Crimp Style Power Connectors?' on Page 1 of this thread. Difficult but not impossible.


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Have a look at 'How To Sleeve Sata Pass-Through or Crimp Style Power Connectors?' on Page 1 of this thread. Difficult but not impossible.


Another way I've seen is just splitting the wires that come from the psu side into two, Icemodz and Ensourced both do this (Ensourced does this as well for molex I believe.) Looks pretty nice, I'm going to try it on my G2.


----------



## MadPolygon

Sometime ago I saw a graphic that showed what length of wire and sleeving you needed for the inner and outer row of cables so you get a perfect arc. I thought I bookmarked it but doesn't seem so. Would be great if someone could post the link.

Also for cable runs with multiple arcs, like from the gpu down and back through the mainboard tray down again to the psu. Should I take all those arcs into account for the cable/sleeving length or only the one visible?


----------



## colinreay

I'm going to post this here as well as the place for the pinout as a PSA, I feel this is pretty important, so sorry if you have already seen me or someone else post this.

I was about to start sleeving the cables on a Corsair RM750i for my school when I ran in to a huge problem. I was not able to depin any of the cables. I am using a Mainframe customs depinning tool, and I think the arms are too short to reach inside.

Corsair is using a custom connector for their cables, the outside is of course the standard size, but the pins themselves are larger and have a bottom ridge/fin as compared to the terminals i have gotten from Mainframe customs, and the pins themselves seem to be different. It is the connector's problem for sure, I made the mistake of plugging an extra sleeved cable into one of the empty terminal slots and it got stuck as well (using the smaller mainframe terminal pins.) Anyways, I then got out two paper clips and while holding the connector with a glove to prevent slicing my hand, managed to HE-MAN one of the terminals out, breaking one of the side wings in the process, so now it is useless.

I'll try to upload photos tomorrow, but just want to warn anyone who is watching. I am really dissappointed that depinning the wires is so hard. Maybe i can remedy this with a MDPC-X depinner, not sure.


----------



## MadPolygon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadPolygon*
> 
> Sometime ago I saw a graphic that showed what length of wire and sleeving you needed for the inner and outer row of cables so you get a perfect arc. I thought I bookmarked it but doesn't seem so. Would be great if someone could post the link.
> 
> Also for cable runs with multiple arcs, like from the gpu down and back through the mainboard tray down again to the psu. Should I take all those arcs into account for the cable/sleeving length or only the one visible?


Ok, finally found it


----------



## FooSkiii

Hey guys i have a Corsair rm1000, i recently sleeved one of the 8 pin pcie connector.
I toke each pin out one by one sleeved it then put it back in the exact spot then moved onto the next pin
But when i plug it into the gpu and power supply the computer won't turn on at all. When i use a different 8 pcie cable it works just fine.
I did do a double ground and only 3 of the 8 pins have power the other 5 are ground.
Any ideas as to what i did wrong?


----------



## ATEF

Assalam alaikom
Dear ALL
Can you give me the right PN molex connecteur ?
rgds
ATEF


----------



## Kenjiwing

What Wirestripper do you all recommend to get consistent 3mm cuts? The one recommended only goes to 6mm.

Thanks


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenjiwing*
> 
> What Wirestripper do you all recommend to get consistent 3mm cuts? The one recommended only goes to 6mm.
> 
> Thanks


Whatever you choose make sure that it's an automatic stripper..Never used these but similar to the ones I use.
https://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/tools/knipex-self-adjusting-wire-stripper/


----------



## Big Elf

I modify mine with a tiny screw as shown in the post *here*


----------



## jvillaveces

I've reached the point in my build where it's time to make SATA power cables, and before making the ugly kludges I usually end up with, I decided to ask if anyone can share a technique that results in a decent job. I found *this* on facebook and I would love to produce something comparable. Thanks for any tips!


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I've reached the point in my build where it's time to make SATA power cables, and before making the ugly kludges I usually end up with, I decided to ask if anyone can share a technique that results in a decent job. I found *this* on facebook and I would love to produce something comparable. Thanks for any tips!


Absolutely...After many hours of trials and errors I found the best way is to use MOLEX brand parts.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=67926-0311virtualkey53810000virtualkey538-67926-0311

I can not stress ENOUGH the usefulness of this insertion tool for SATA connectors. Also MOLEX brand.
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=3OKVfsn1b5CX1XdFsIO98Q%3d%3d

If interested refer to my build log where I go into detail about my experiences with making cables.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1595092/my-new-sth10-build/0_30

Lastly I HIGHLY RECOMMEND watching Lutro's videos on youtube.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT7p3y4df3uwYYZI7bcdJAA


----------



## jvillaveces

Thank you. I have finished the rest of the custom wires: atx, pcie, front panel, fans, lights. My question is specifically about sata power. Lutro0's amazing videos don't really address this


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thank you. I have finished the rest of the custom wires: atx, pcie, front panel, fans, lights. My question is specifically about sata power. Lutro0's amazing videos don't really address this


I have had a lot of issues with SATA power except when I used MOLEX punch down tool. With that tool I have never had any issues.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Thank you. I have finished the rest of the custom wires: atx, pcie, front panel, fans, lights. My question is specifically about sata power. Lutro0's amazing videos don't really address this
> 
> 
> 
> I have had a lot of issues with SATA power except when I used MOLEX punch down tool. With that tool I have never had any issues.
Click to expand...

While I agree the proper tool is usually the best, I have had excellent results using a four pin fan pin removal tool like this one:



I just place the wire on the connector, plance the tool on the wire, align the spaces between the prongs of the tool with the sides of the contact on the connector (close is close enough), then use a tack hammer to gently tap in the wire just enough it just touches the "V" at the bottom of the groove in the contact. The beauty of this tool is I already had it and it is a lot easier to find.


----------



## jvillaveces

I have and use the tool although it's not really necessary for the type of connector shown in the photo. My problem is not with the integrity of electrical connection, it's with sleeving the cables for a nice appearance. Let me repeat/rephrase my original question: does anyone know of a technique that will yield aesthetic results similar to the picture I posted?


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have and use the tool although it's not really necessary for the type of connector shown in the photo. My problem is not with the integrity of electrical connection, it's with sleeving the cables for a nice appearance. Let me repeat/rephrase my original question: does anyone know of a technique that will yield aesthetic results similar to the picture I posted?


If I was going to do that, I would first extend the ends of the sleeving closer together than necessary to clear the connector body, overheat a shrink sleeve over the ends so the sleeve will melt a little ways past where the connector will go, then cut away the shrink sleeve and trim the melted end of the sleeve enough to create that squared off appearance, leaving just enough room for the connector between the squared off ends of the sleeving.

Another idea might be to position the cut ends of the sleeving where they need to be, use masking tape on the sleeving a little ways from the ends, then stabilize the ends with some kind of clear adhesive.

If you are on Facebook, you might write the guy who posted that photo and ask how he did it.

Also, go to the first post in this thread. one of Lutro's articles in the post discusses ways to sleeve pass through SATA connectors.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have and use the tool although it's not really necessary for the type of connector shown in the photo. My problem is not with the integrity of electrical connection, it's with sleeving the cables for a nice appearance. Let me repeat/rephrase my original question: does anyone know of a technique that will yield aesthetic results similar to the picture I posted?
> 
> 
> 
> If I was going to do that, I would first extend the ends of the sleeving closer together than necessary to clear the connector body, overheat a shrink sleeve over the ends so the sleeve will melt a little ways past where the connector will go, then cut away the shrink sleeve and trim the melted end of the sleeve enough to create that squared off appearance, leaving just enough room for the connector between the squared off ends of the sleeving.
> 
> Another idea might be to position the cut ends of the sleeving where they need to be, use masking tape on the sleeving a little ways from the ends, then stabilize the ends with some kind of clear adhesive.
> 
> If you are on Facebook, you might write the guy who posted that photo and ask how he did it.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the advice! My usual method is the masking tape+superglue approach you suggested. It inevitably ends up looking like crap on a stick because the CA stiffens the sleeve, and there is always at least one corner on each connector where some tape ends up showing.

Looking at the picture, it looks like he did something similar to your idea about the sleeve-melting and cutting. I was particularly impressed by how even and neat the sleeve ends look, and that kind of look is what I'm after. I'm sure once the connector is in place you will be looking at a perfect heatshrinkless connection. Unfortunately, the op is Indonesian and doesn't appear to speak English, and my Indonesian is not that hot. I was hoping someone around here knows how to do this and wants to share, as I'm sure I'm not the only one frustrated with sata power cables.


----------



## Himo5

Here is a way of treating sleeve so that it does not fray in a SATA Power Strip and can look as if the chain is sleeved right through the connectors.
I use Shakmods 2mm sleeve on 16awg UL1007 wire because it avoids loss of contact and loose untidy sleeve. It helps when fitting the wire to warm it up first - and, of course, check and recheck your results with a multimeter.


The key to this method is my heat shrink tool which is a small length of telescope aerial split down its length so that it can be wrapped around the sleeve it is to protect while heat shrink is being applied. The part of the aerrial I use is just too thick to go inside 4mm 2/1 heat shrink but can be coaxed in when it is split.


1. Tools and Material
4mm 2/1 Heat shrink; Heat shrink tool; 2mm Skakmods Sleeve; 16awg UL1007 Wire; Smaller of two Cross slot in a standard Jewellers Sdriver Kit; Lighter
2. Step One
Fit Heat shrink on the heat shrink tool
3. Step Two
Cut heat shrink to leave 3-4mm overlap
4. Step Three
Thread Sleeve through the Heat shrink tool
5. Step Four
Place sleeve on Jeweller's SDriver blade
6. Step Five
Slide Heat shrink right over the sleeve
7. Step Six
Spin heat shrink in blue part of lighter flame for a count of 10 and remove from SDriver blade
8. Step Seven
Slide Heat shrink tool off sleeve - which should now have a solid, non-frayable (and trimmable) end


Step eight then cuts the sleeve to the required length and treats the other end. The object of this method is not to fix the sleeve on the wire but to allow it to spring between the connectors by being cut slightly too long - between the connector blades rather than the plastic faces of the connectors.


----------



## X-Nine

You can always use the MDPC push-in SATA terminals. https://mod-one.com/cable-sleeving-supplies/connectors/new-category/

That way you aren't really needing any specialized tools. They have pass through and 90 degree caps (for the very end terminal).


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JasonCL*
> 
> You can always use the MDPC push-in SATA terminals. https://mod-one.com/cable-sleeving-supplies/connectors/new-category/
> 
> That way you aren't really needing any specialized tools. They have pass through and 90 degree caps (for the very end terminal).


That does not address the question jvillaveces asked, which was how to seal a square cut end to sleeving between the connectors.


----------



## jsutter71

Clever. Using heat shrink to melt sleeve. Just make sure to use non adhesive heat shrink. To bad that only works with PET sleeving. My preference is nylon parachute cord


----------



## Himo5

You might be able to use a method for melting sleeve on wire to employ paracord in a SATA Power Strip but it would mean fixing the sleeve to the wire. However, it should be possible to devise a method for shaping the melt to achieve the same effect instead of the usual rough shaping of heatshrinkless style.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Here is a way of treating sleeve so that it does not fray in a SATA Power Strip and can look as if the chain is sleeved right through the connectors.
> 
> I use Shakmods 2mm sleeve on 16awg UL1007 wire because it avoids loss of contact and loose untidy sleeve. It helps when fitting the wire to warm it up first - and, of course, check and recheck your results with a multimeter.
> 
> 
> 
> The key to this method is my heat shrink tool which is a small length of telescope aerial split down its length so that it can be wrapped around the sleeve it is to protect while heat shrink is being applied. The part of the aerrial I use is just too thick to go inside 4mm 2/1 heat shrink but can be coaxed in when it is split.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Tools and Material
> 
> 4mm 2/1 Heat shrink; Heat shrink tool; 2mm Skakmods Sleeve; 16awg UL1007 Wire; Smaller of two Cross slot in a standard Jewellers Sdriver Kit; Lighter
> 
> 2. Step One
> 
> Fit Heat shrink on the heat shrink tool
> 
> 3. Step Two
> 
> Cut heat shrink to leave 3-4mm overlap
> 
> 4. Step Three
> 
> Thread Sleeve through the Heat shrink tool
> 
> 5. Step Four
> 
> Place sleeve on Jeweller's SDriver blade
> 
> 6. Step Five
> 
> Slide Heat shrink right over the sleeve
> 
> 7. Step Six
> 
> Spin heat shrink in blue part of lighter flame for a count of 10 and remove from SDriver blade
> 
> 8. Step Seven
> 
> Slide Heat shrink tool off sleeve - which should now have a solid, non-frayable (and trimmable) end
> 
> 
> 
> Step eight then cuts the sleeve to the required length and treats the other end. The object of this method is not to fix the sleeve on the wire but to allow it to spring between the connectors by being cut slightly too long - between the connector blades rather than the plastic faces of the connectors.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Here is a way of treating sleeve so that it does not fray in a SATA Power Strip and can look as if the chain is sleeved right through the connectors.
> 
> I use Shakmods 2mm sleeve on 16awg UL1007 wire because it avoids loss of contact and loose untidy sleeve. It helps when fitting the wire to warm it up first - and, of course, check and recheck your results with a multimeter.
> 
> 
> 
> The key to this method is my heat shrink tool which is a small length of telescope aerial split down its length so that it can be wrapped around the sleeve it is to protect while heat shrink is being applied. The part of the aerrial I use is just too thick to go inside 4mm 2/1 heat shrink but can be coaxed in when it is split.
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Tools and Material
> 
> 4mm 2/1 Heat shrink; Heat shrink tool; 2mm Skakmods Sleeve; 16awg UL1007 Wire; Smaller of two Cross slot in a standard Jewellers Sdriver Kit; Lighter
> 
> 2. Step One
> 
> Fit Heat shrink on the heat shrink tool
> 
> 3. Step Two
> 
> Cut heat shrink to leave 3-4mm overlap
> 
> 4. Step Three
> 
> Thread Sleeve through the Heat shrink tool
> 
> 5. Step Four
> 
> Place sleeve on Jeweller's SDriver blade
> 
> 6. Step Five
> 
> Slide Heat shrink right over the sleeve
> 
> 7. Step Six
> 
> Spin heat shrink in blue part of lighter flame for a count of 10 and remove from SDriver blade
> 
> 8. Step Seven
> 
> Slide Heat shrink tool off sleeve - which should now have a solid, non-frayable (and trimmable) end
> 
> 
> 
> Step eight then cuts the sleeve to the required length and treats the other end. The object of this method is not to fix the sleeve on the wire but to allow it to spring between the connectors by being cut slightly too long - between the connector blades rather than the plastic faces of the connectors.


Thank you for your detailed response, and congratulations for this ingenious method! To clarify, first you melt the sleeve while off the wire with your jig, then cut to appropriate length so it sits between the blades of the connector, then apply to the wire?


----------



## Himo5

That's right. I have a piece of 16awg wire marked with the correct length of each section (including the allowance I mentioned to produce the spring effect). Once I have treated the end of the sleeve coil I place it on this wire, stretch it out and stick a pin through it where the wire ends - double checking against the other sections as I go. That gives me my cut point so I take the sleeve off the wire, cut it at the pin, singe it as usual and place it on the Screwdriver blade to treat the other end of the section.


----------



## Jubijub

Hello everyone,

I read the FAQ carefully, but still have some questions : I'd like to produce custom length cables for my caselabs SMA8, which would help to reduce clutter in the case.

My PSU will be an EVGA 1200 P2, and I would like to keep stock cables as-is.

My questions :
- based on the looks of it, the PSU side connectors look like standard Molex, is this correct ?
- I read in the FAQ that some cable may have capacitors...do you know if it is the case for the 1200 P2, and if I don't put any, will that matter ?
- I read conflicting things regarding the recommended gauge for the wires : is 16 mandatory for 24v, or will 18 go for everything ?
- If I need to splice wires, what is the best technique ? When I was working in automotive we used ultrasound splicing machines, but I don't really feel like buying this type of equipment


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I read the FAQ carefully, but still have some questions : I'd like to produce custom length cables for my caselabs SMA8, which would help to reduce clutter in the case.
> 
> My PSU will be an EVGA 1200 P2, and I would like to keep stock cables as-is.
> 
> My questions :
> - based on the looks of it, the PSU side connectors look like standard Molex, is this correct ?
> - I read in the FAQ that some cable may have capacitors...do you know if it is the case for the 1200 P2, and if I don't put any, will that matter ?
> - I read conflicting things regarding the recommended gauge for the wires : is 16 mandatory for 24v, or will 18 go for everything ?
> - If I need to splice wires, what is the best technique ? When I was working in automotive we used ultrasound splicing machines, but I don't really feel like buying this type of equipment


1. You should use a multimeter to verify the pinout for your PSU. You may find pinouts for it here on OCN and elsewhere, but you really need to check this yourself.
2. You can easily find out whether your stock cables include caps by visual inspection. About removing them or replacing them on custom wires, opinions seem to be split 50/50. Their purpose is to reduce ripple, but even without them, ripple may be within acceptable levels. Of course, cables with caps are harder to sleeve and end up looking less nice than cables without. Maybe a good compromise is to move the caps to the part of your cables that will end up not being visible from the front?
3. Except for extreme overclock situations, 18 AWG is good enough for any PSU cables. 16 AWG will look better in a sleeved cable, and will give you lower temperatures. Almost everybody that uses 16 AWG still does the "non-core" cables (SATA, Molex) in 18 AWG, and fans and LEDs in 22 AWG.
4.


----------



## Revan654

I have these two terminal sets. Each is a bit different. I was wondering if anyone know what the real difference really is & what one I should be using?

One came from Singularity computers & the other from Ice-Modz.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have these two terminal sets. Each is a bit different. I was wondering if anyone know what the real difference really is & what one I should be using?
> 
> One came from Singularity computers & the other from Ice-Modz.


A couple of possibilities. Different terminals support different gauge wire. The second is longer fins support dual wire crimping. Might I make a suggestion. I have used terminals from Singularity, PPCS, ModDIY, mainframecustom, primochill, Amazon, and Mouser. Mouser has the best selection and best quality. These are the best quality terminals I have ever used. I highly recommend them and best of all they come lose.



http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=M20-1180042virtualkey57420000virtualkey855-M20-1180042


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have these two terminal sets. Each is a bit different. I was wondering if anyone know what the real difference really is & what one I should be using?
> 
> One came from Singularity computers & the other from Ice-Modz.


The upper image appears to be a Mini Fit Jr terminal; while the terminals in the lower image appear to have rounded edges along one of their sides. Not sure what to make of those.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> A couple of possibilities. Different terminals support different gauge wire. The second is longer fins support dual wire crimping. Might I make a suggestion. I have used terminals from Singularity, PPCS, ModDIY, mainframecustom, primochill, Amazon, and Mouser. Mouser has the best selection and best quality. These are the best quality terminals I have ever used. I highly recommend them and best of all they come lose.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=M20-1180042virtualkey57420000virtualkey855-M20-1180042


Those are *minipv (Dupont) terminals* you're referencing there, aren't they? *An example of the housing they're used in*.


----------



## Revan654

I figured it out, The lower ones are JMT terminals.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> A couple of possibilities. Different terminals support different gauge wire. The second is longer fins support dual wire crimping. Might I make a suggestion. I have used terminals from Singularity, PPCS, ModDIY, mainframecustom, primochill, Amazon, and Mouser. Mouser has the best selection and best quality. These are the best quality terminals I have ever used. I highly recommend them and best of all they come lose.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=M20-1180042virtualkey57420000virtualkey855-M20-1180042


Those are Dupont terminals. Which I have allot from Mouser(There the ones I use to create my Aqua-Computer USB cables). I personally like the reel, Since it makes it easier to organize.

Also there almost the same as Dupont terminals from Singularity Computers.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> The upper image appears to be a Mini Fit Jr terminal; while the terminals in the lower image appear to have rounded edges along one of their sides. Not sure what to make of those.
> Those are *minipv (Dupont) terminals* you're referencing there, aren't they? *An example of the housing they're used in*.


The bottom is probably ATX style. I found this which looks to be rounded. Probably for a larger gauge.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> The bottom is probably ATX style. I found this which looks to be rounded. Probably for a larger gauge.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


You wouldn't happen to have a link to those where you bought them from, would you?


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> You wouldn't happen to have a link to those where you bought them from, would you?


Ok...You are correct and I pulled out some of my terminals to verify. The first pic is an ATX pin I bought from mouser next to a Dupont pin also from mouser. The second pic are some ATX pins that I bought from PPCS. It's more rounded at the end but an ATX pin nevertheless. The ATX pin in the first pic is able to handle 16 gauge wire or smaller gauge dual wire crimping. Like the Dupont pins it comes separated which is awesome when your making multiple cables. Crimping with the pins from Mouser is far better experience. Another thing is that the other companies charge you a fortune but with Mouser you can buy in bulk.



\

Here is the link. I narrowed the search for the ATX pins. if you order from them as separated pins then make sure you look closely at the description since they sell both.

http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Headers-Wire-Housings/Micro-Fit-30/Micro-Fit-30/_/N-ay0loZscv7?P=1z0spqjZ1yzv7x1Z1yiluml&FS=True


----------



## iamjanco

Thanks for the confirmation! I'm of the school that believes it helps to add links when posting info like this, which in-turn helps cut down on the he said, she saids.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsutter71*
> 
> The bottom is probably ATX style. I found this which looks to be rounded. Probably for a larger gauge.


There JMT terminals. I got confirmation from Singularity computer a few hours ago.


----------



## jsutter71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Thanks for the confirmation! I'm of the school that believes it helps to add links when posting info like this, which in-turn helps cut down on the he said, she saids.


Agreed


----------



## Revan654

I doesn't seem to be covered in the FAQ. I was wondering if anyone know what the advantages or disadvantages of using Bare copper wire vs tin copper wire? I have both types in 16 AWG, I just haven't decided which to use yet. Hopefully some info will help on this decision.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I doesn't seem to be covered in the FAQ. I was wondering if anyone know what the advantages or disadvantages of using Bare copper wire vs tin copper wire? I have both types in 16 AWG, I just haven't decided which to use yet. Hopefully some info will help on this decision.


Bare copper wire has its uses, but for what we use wire for in our builds, the prevention of oxidation that results in copper oxide is why we use plated copper wire. Oxidized conductors tend toward intermittent (or worse) issues.

Which reminds me of a related learning experience I had with a Honda CB550 back when I was stationed at Tyndall AFB in Florida, ca 1978. I was blowing fuses and no matter how much I tried to find the problem (e.g., looking for a short, etc.), I couldn't figure out what was up. Eventually, I took note of corrosion on the aluminum fuse holders, and learned that my fuses weren't actually blowing, but melting. I managed to catch that by accident when I was ohming everything out and noted a high resistance that was being caused by the layer of accumulated corrosion, which in-turn was acting like a resistor when a good deal of current is run through one, heating up because of the voltage drop.

Cleaning those fuse holders and applying a generous amount of WD-40 did the trick, and I didn't "blow" any more fuses after that.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Bare copper wire has its uses, but for what we use wire for in our builds, the prevention of oxidation that results in copper oxide is why we use plated copper wire. Oxidized conductors tend toward intermittent (or worse) issues.


Tin over Bare. It's just seem strange places like ice-modz & Singularity computer only use base copper wiring. Singularity is know for only using the best parts possible, it strange they only use bare copper wiring.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Tin over Bare. It's just seem strange places like ice-modz & Singularity computer only use base copper wiring. Singularity is know for only using the best parts possible, it strange they only use bare copper wiring.


Right, and one of Ice-Modz selling points about their gold plated terminals is "*Gold plate so it gives better connectivity.*"... which typically is true if you're mating them to other gold plated terminals. What is conveniently or otherwise left out though is the fretting corrosion that can occur when mating gold plated female terminals to tin-plated male terminals (or vice versa).


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Right, and one of Ice-Modz selling points about their gold plated terminals is "*Gold plate so it gives better connectivity.*"... which typically is true if you're mating them to other gold plated terminals. *What is conveniently or otherwise left out though is the fretting corrosion that can occur when mating gold plated female terminals to tin-plated male terminals (or vice versa).*


Based off what Singularity Computers have said that is 100% false. I also E-mail them awhile back & they told me the same thing. I also contacted another company & told me that is false too. I keep see info some say yes others say no. It's hard to know what is 100% true.


----------



## iamjanco

I imagine it could boil down to who you want to place your faith in. I choose *TE/AMP*. Now, if those companies you mentioned can point me to the results of exhaustive testing that indicate otherwise, I might be more inclined to take their word for it.

I suspect you won't see companies like SpaceX mixing their plated conductors in what they build. Then, I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I imagine it could boil down to who you want to place your faith in. I choose *TE/AMP*. Now, if those companies you mentioned can point me to the results of exhaustive testing that indicate otherwise, I might be more inclined to take their word for it.
> 
> I suspect you won't see companies like SpaceX mixing their plated conductors in what they build. Then, I could be wrong. Wouldn't be the first time.


Most motherboard connectors/terminals are tin but both Corsair & EVGA + Others use gold plated terminals with there PSU cables.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Most motherboard connectors/terminals are tin but both Corsair & EVGA + Others use gold plated terminals with there PSU cables.


Correct. It's my understanding that at least their higher end products do.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Correct. It's my understanding that at least their higher end products do.


Probably just marketing.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Probably just marketing.


If it market there is zero mention about them in there product details or info.


----------



## Semitangible

Just a fair warning, I'm fat, nerdy, and I home chef, and I'm really hungry right now. Expect culinary references and way too much information.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> If it market there is zero mention about them in there product details or info.


It might be hidden marketing...i.e. if you're a restaurant and make fabulous steaks, you don't advertise them, because if you have to advertise that your steaks are great, then they probably aren't. At least, most people assume they aren't - otherwise you wouldn't need to advertise them. You let people talk about it for you, and you advertise that you have blackened chicken and cranberry salad with balsamic.

"Oh, that's how they treat a salad, with all that fancy? And I heard that Ted had an awesome steak there, they must go over-the-top on those if this is how they do just a chicken breast."

You don't need gold plated connectors - it's an AND selling point (i.e. AND they have gold plated connectors?). Yeah, they'll perform better - but not even close to a significant level. Gold doesn't allow oxidization or thermal runaway like other materials might (thermal runaway = you have heat, causes oxidization and higher resistances, causes heat, causes oxidization and...etc.), but you're not talking about fabulously sensitive systems here. Sensitive, yes. Would I ever use bare copper strand? Absolutely not, I would tin dip the ends before I crimp or solder. But using gold plating in a computer cable is like having a titanium fork.

If you want a fork you never have to worry about, then the only thing stopping you is being able to afford it. In the grand scheme of things, and stepping out of the simile, spending an extra $10 on all of your connectors isn't going to break you. But you don't need it. And high-end companies aren't charging $10 more for that, it's probably close to nothing for them at the volumes they get everything at.

If one of their high-end selling points is that they gold-plate their connectors, I would wonder why they had to waste the space to tell me something so insignificant - i.e. you really didn't have anything else good to say? Having gold plated connectors is bling and a status symbol - again, an AND selling point. Maybe even a gimmick, like heat spreaders on RAM you can't overclock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> I suspect you won't see companies like SpaceX mixing their plated conductors in what they build.


Well...that's a completely different ballgame and set of physics there, a bit of apples and oranges comparison. Elon Musk really doesn't have a budget. In case and if...you ever wanted to know...some relatively useless information...

The connection systems used for space are awesomely sophisticated, because they need to withstand extremely high and low (down to cryogenic) temperatures, EMI and RFI and radiation interference or breakdown, solvents, extreme vibration and oscillation, in some cases explosions, and extreme fluctuation of ambient pressure, including instantaneous vacuum. All sorts of scenarios that would turn you into Jello pudding.

The materials they use are so specific and pure it would make your head spin like a rotisserie, because some metals, alloys and impurities will do something called outgassing in a vacuum, and cause a pressure failure (not to mention a raw material failure, like a crack). Imagine aerosolized copper molecules slowly plating everything inside the connector housing like Pam cooking spray. Not good.

These connection systems need to perform within a few hundreds or thousandths of a percent of nominal after spending hundreds of hours of being blasted with salt spray, corrosives, 300 farenheit, incredible UV, and other environmental hells. And these are just the failure modes and tests I know about, I don't work in that department. Nor do I ever want to...I prefer my Nestlé strawberry milk, I don't need my job to be _crème fraîche aux fraises._

NASA specifies exactly what connection systems need to endure for space, and really, what they're made of and how they're constructed. There's a whole spec out there for it. I believe not just the connectors need to be hermetically sealed, but there might be special *WIRE* that they have to use for some connectors for space - O2 and H2, and other homonuclear diatomic molecules in air, exhalation, and other sources of refuse energy in a space ship, can creep between the wire strands like soda in a straw, and cause a pressure failure over time.

If you think about it, it's a complete fluke that we ever made it into space with what they first did it with. I don't think anyone is worrying if they should plate the pins or not. I think if someone brought that up in a meeting, they'd be marched out like a guy staying too long at a buffet...which isn't a good feeling.

So, yeah...comparing all of that, to connections inside a desktop PC; is like comparing lasagna in a farm-fresh bistro on Italy's coast, to spaghettios - WITHOUT the meatballs.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Semitangible*
> 
> So, yeah...comparing all of that, to connections inside a desktop PC; is like comparing lasagna in a farm-fresh bistro on Italy's coast, to spaghettios - WITHOUT the meatballs.


Lol... I definitely wouldn't disagree with you, but given how "some" obviously obsess over most everything else that goes into their builds, I figured why not reference the source. If you're going to spend a larger amount on most of those quality, farm-fresh ingredients that go into your lasagna, why kill the final outcome with a jar of Chef Boyardee?









But I do understand where you're coming from. Me, I'd use what works.


----------



## Semitangible

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Lol... I definitely wouldn't disagree with you, but given how "some" obviously obsess over most everything else that goes into their builds, I figured why not reference the source. If you're going to spend a larger amount on most of those quality, farm-fresh ingredients that go into your lasagna, why kill the final outcome with a jar of Chef Boyardee?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I do understand where you're coming from. Me, I'd use what works.


Same. And agreed, some people do obsess, and the details are critical - there are still people who lap and mirror finish the tops of their CPU's, and you never see it again. Just so they don't see lag when they play Cooking Mama or an old port of Burger Time. Tsk, tsk.

Sometimes I use it as a perception of quality, too. "See? I did these wires with gold plated connectors, they're better than what the manufacturer originally had for the power supply!" But ultimately...an ohmmeter continuity test is either a pass or fail. Most non-technical people have to be coaxed and tricked to believe that doing and testing something by hand, by someone who knows what they're doing, can be much better than what got spit out of a factory. My lasagna from scratch with jar sauce and Walmart mozzarella is still better than a Stouffer's Pan of Heartburn - no crunchy exposed noodles for me, I spread the cheese evenly.

Especially if I'm putting my name and my money on the line by warrantying it, I'll use the gold connectors so they buy into me making the cables in the first place - it's not the gold plating I want, it's to make the cables, because if I see it back on my desk with an expectation to pay for blown up parts, because a vendor had a bad cable, that's really gonna burn me like the Maillard Reaction.


----------



## Semitangible

And yeah, to your point, if you already spent all this time and money on awesome high-end components and are going to be making the cables by hand anyway, are you really that concerned about maybe $10 and zero extra work? Again, you don't need it. But...I wouldn't expect, say, Kier or Lutro0 to use unplated pins in their builds.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Probably just marketing.


Not really. Gold plating makes the pin much more resistant to insertion cycles - which means that basically the plating doesn't get scraped and ruined nearly as much with gold, compared to tin, if you connect and disconnect all the time.
You will be surprised that Molex rates its tinned pins with a very low insertion cycle count.

There IS a theoretical con about mixing metals with the pins. I've read about it but never seen or heard about any issue even vaguely related to it in real life, so in a PC use with very low voltage and relatively low current it might not occur within the lifespan of our components.
If this is true, I would argue that for a PC enthusiast, it's much better to have the pins in the correct physical condition all the time even after heavy abuse.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SHNS0*
> 
> Not really. Gold plating makes the pin much more resistant to insertion cycles - which means that basically the plating doesn't get scraped and ruined nearly as much with gold, compared to tin, if you connect and disconnect all the time.
> You will be surprised that Molex rates its tinned pins with a very low insertion cycle count.
> 
> There IS a theoretical con about mixing metals with the pins. I've read about it but never seen or heard about any issue even vaguely related to it in real life, so in a PC use with very low voltage and relatively low current it might not occur within the lifespan of our components.
> If this is true, I would argue that for a PC enthusiast, it's much better to have the pins in the correct physical condition all the time even after heavy abuse.


Though I do agree pretty much with what you mentioned above, especially with respect to mixing plated contacts in a typical overclocker's computer build, I'm not sure *fretting corrosion* should be considered a "theoretical" con (though much has been said about it in a theoretical sense from the perspective of the *science of tribology*).

One does have to wonder whether fretting corrosion plays any role in those reported instances where users have reseated things like (atx connectors, ram modules, etc.) connections and resolved issues doing so. OTOH, I myself personally wouldn't be up to conducting some sort of 10,000 mtbf connection cycle testing and will happily continue to leave such pursuits to others.


----------



## SHNS0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Though I do agree pretty much with what you mentioned above, especially with respect to mixing plated contacts in a typical overclocker's computer build, I'm not sure *fretting corrosion* should be considered a "theoretical" con (though much has been said about it in a theoretical sense from the perspective of the *science of tribology*).
> 
> One does have to wonder whether fretting corrosion plays any role in those reported instances where users have reseated things like (atx connectors, ram modules, etc.) connections and resolved issues doing so. OTOH, I myself personally wouldn't be up to conducting some sort of 10,000 mtbf connection cycle testing and will happily continue to leave such pursuits to others.


In the end it's mostly speculation, while these phenomena might be known you really don't know if they happen in a pc, how often, and how mild or severe the problems can be.
The fact that people bench, test and tinker with dozens of configurations on a single power supply all the time, exceeding the rated insertion cycles of the minifits by god only knows how many tens or hundred folds, and still no issues arise.... Lets me think that all these things are absolutely irrelevant in a PC.

I'll still keep on using gold plated pins for my works. Really doesn't cost me that much of an extra.


----------



## iamjanco

^ +1 Agreed. You won't get much of an argument from me there.


----------



## Jubijub

I'm working towards finalizing my orders for the sleeving part of my build.

Few questions :

A/ when building fully custom cables, do you comb them from PSU to destination, or do you just put combs on the visible parts, and hold the rest somehow ? if the latter, what do you use ? A fully combed 24wire connector is bound to be huge








B/ where could one find the type of sleeve EVGA and others use for their stock cables ? it's a quite large diameter
C/ MPDC-X small sleeve is still quite large : is there any way to find a smaller one ? this is for fan / aquabus cables, that will contain 3xAWG22 wires


----------



## SHNS0

Large sleeve is so that you stretch it to make the density higher, and in turn the diameter becomes smaller. This gives a more solid color, more covering of the underlying wire color, and a more rigid and easy to shape cable.

Without stretching, the cable will have the tendency of basically "going wherever it wants" and you'll have to seriously stuff it with combs to make it look acceptable. With serious stretching, you can have perfect cables even without combs.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I'm working towards finalizing my orders for the sleeving part of my build.
> 
> Few questions :
> 
> A/ when building fully custom cables, do you comb them from PSU to destination, or do you just put combs on the visible parts, and hold the rest somehow ? if the latter, what do you use ? A fully combed 24wire connector is bound to be huge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B/ where could one find the type of sleeve EVGA and others use for their stock cables ? it's a quite large diameter
> C/ MPDC-X small sleeve is still quite large : is there any way to find a smaller one ? this is for fan / aquabus cables, that will contain 3xAWG22 wires


A. Only what can be seen. At max I would only put four on a single cable. To fully comb a cable could get expensive, Plus you want leave room to make curves & such.
B. Amazon, Moddiy or Aliexpress.
C. You don't want the sleeving to be super tight. You want some extra room for bends & curves. DarkSide Sleeving sells anything from 2mm to 12mm.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> A. Only what can be seen. At max I would only put four on a single cable. To fully comb a cable could get expensive, Plus you want leave room to make curves & such.
> B. Amazon, Moddiy or Aliexpress.
> C. You don't want the sleeving to be super tight. You want some extra room for bends & curves. DarkSide Sleeving sells anything from 2mm to 12mm.


What did you use for your fans / PWM cables ?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> What did you use for your fans / PWM cables ?


MDPC-X. I have a few fan cables made with smaller sleeving mainly the 4mm version. There just way to tight, It can be difficult to route your cables in certain directions since they want to keep bending another way.

If you want multi-sleeve Fan cable them you will need to use 2mm sleeving type with smallest 22AWG wiring you can find.

Example of Multi-Sleeved Fan Cable I'm talking about:


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I'm working towards finalizing my orders for the sleeving part of my build.
> 
> Few questions :
> 
> A/ when building fully custom cables, do you comb them from PSU to destination, or do you just put combs on the visible parts, and hold the rest somehow ? if the latter, what do you use ? A fully combed 24wire connector is bound to be huge


If the sleeving is stretched tightly over the wire, you'll find that combs are not really necessary after the cables are trained.


----------



## Captain4W

So I'm redoing the cables for my EVGA 1600G2 and I'm having a really hard time (first time sleeving). First off the 24 pin has a double plug, so it's 24 pin on one side and an 18 and 10 on the other, so there are several pins on the 24 side that have 2 wires. I figure when I redo the cable I can just bridge those wires from the 10 to the 18 instead of to the 24 (does that make since???), but by doing this I can't take the sleeve all the way into the plug so the sleeve won't be extremely tight; so how do I make it tight? Is there a video on how to do this??? I'm using the heatshrinkless technique, not sure if that matters.

Also, I am ordering new wire for all the cables and per page one, I'm going with the 16AWG, what size should I get for the "jumper" wires???

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain4W*
> 
> So I'm redoing the cables for my EVGA 1600G2 and I'm having a really hard time (first time sleeving). First off the 24 pin has a double plug, so it's 24 pin on one side and an 18 and 10 on the other, so there are several pins on the 24 side that have 2 wires. I figure when I redo the cable I can just bridge those wires from the 10 to the 18 instead of to the 24 (does that make since???), but by doing this I can't take the sleeve all the way into the plug so the sleeve won't be extremely tight; so how do I make it tight? Is there a video on how to do this??? I'm using the heatshrinkless technique, not sure if that matters.
> 
> Also, I am ordering new wire for all the cables and per page one, I'm going with the 16AWG, what size should I get for the "jumper" wires???
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Lutroo made a video on double wiring, which covers this.

Spoiler : you will end up doing Y shaped cable, with one full length wire, and a shorter one that you splice somewhere.
Double crimping is not recommended.


----------



## Lady Fitzgerald

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Captain4W*
> 
> So I'm redoing the cables for my EVGA 1600G2 and I'm having a really hard time (first time sleeving). First off the 24 pin has a double plug, so it's 24 pin on one side and an 18 and 10 on the other, so there are several pins on the 24 side that have 2 wires. I figure when I redo the cable I can just bridge those wires from the 10 to the 18 instead of to the 24 (does that make since???), but by doing this I can't take the sleeve all the way into the plug so the sleeve won't be extremely tight; so how do I make it tight? Is there a video on how to do this??? I'm using the heatshrinkless technique, not sure if that matters.
> 
> Also, I am ordering new wire for all the cables and per page one, I'm going with the 16AWG, what size should I get for the "jumper" wires???
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Lutroo made a video on double wiring, which covers this.
> 
> Spoiler : you will end up doing Y shaped cable, with one full length wire, and a shorter one that you splice somewhere.
> Double crimping is not recommended.
Click to expand...

Actually, I've successfully crimped two wires into a pin (including two #14 wires into Molex four pin power connector pins) but it can be difficult to find pins that can accommodate two larger wires. It is challenging but not impossible to do.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lady Fitzgerald*
> 
> Actually, I've successfully crimped two wires into a pin (including two #14 wires into Molex four pin power connector pins) but it can be difficult to find pins that can accommodate two larger wires. It is challenging but not impossible to do.


Most of them can be found on AliExpress Market. Sleevng the wire with MDPC-X & getting them in into the connector is another story.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captain4W*
> 
> So I'm redoing the cables for my EVGA 1600G2 and I'm having a really hard time (first time sleeving). First off the 24 pin has a double plug, so it's 24 pin on one side and an 18 and 10 on the other, so there are several pins on the 24 side that have 2 wires. I figure when I redo the cable I can just bridge those wires from the 10 to the 18 instead of to the 24 (does that make since???), but by doing this I can't take the sleeve all the way into the plug so the sleeve won't be extremely tight; so how do I make it tight? Is there a video on how to do this??? I'm using the heatshrinkless technique, not sure if that matters.
> 
> Also, I am ordering new wire for all the cables and per page one, I'm going with the 16AWG, what size should I get for the "jumper" wires???
> 
> Thanks in advance.


You can try to attempt to double Crimp two wires together using extra long wing terminals. Then making the burning point on the wire/Sleeving as small as possible(You will want to make a V shape cut on the sleeving for the inside).



Also with Extra Long wing terminals you can crimp the sleeving right to the terminal without the need of a machine. Burning method is still the better method.



DarkSide -> Teleios -> MDPC-X

The other preferred method is soldering.



You will have to solder two or three wires together (Depending on your method of soldering).

YouTube has plenty of videos. I suggest using singularity computers method (They have a video on this on there own Youtube Channel). They have the best method when it comes to Y Cables/Double Wires.

----

Not sure what you mean by Jumper Wire. 16 AWG with an OD of 2mm or 2.34mm wiring will work without any issues. I currently use 2.34mm wiring, It also has the advantage that wire can be trained easier.

Mod-One.com is where I get all my supplies, Plus Mod-One is only place in US that sells MDPC-X (Best Sleeving you can buy). I also prefer there wiring over MFC, Mod-One 16 AWG is allot better.


----------



## iamjanco

To a large extent the wires being called "jumper wires" are actually sense lines used by the PSU for various monitoring purposes, especially the smaller gauge wires. While they don't have to be any size larger un guage than they already are, many feel it does make things a bit easier and for more of a consistent look when sleeving your cables.


----------



## rock14

Hi everyone, i have a little question to ask... i have a coolermaster power supply and some cables are 16awg and the other are 18awg. i'm planning to do some cable extension and i have a little doubt. the male and female pins that almost everyone use and sell are rated as 18-24 awg but watching the lutr0's videos (and the singularity computer ones), they use 16awg cables. now my question is this. can i use a 16 awg cable in a 18-24 pin? looking at their videos i think they are doing the same...
Thank You!


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock14*
> 
> Hi everyone, i have a little question to ask... i have a coolermaster power supply and some cables are 16awg and the other are 18awg. i'm planning to do some cable extension and i have a little doubt. the male and female pins that almost everyone use and sell are rated as 18-24 awg but watching the lutr0's videos (and the singularity computer ones), they use 16awg cables. now my question is this. can i use a 16 awg cable in a 18-24 pin? looking at their videos i think they are doing the same...
> Thank You!


The 16AWG pins will be easier to use. I order the 16AWG pins from Digi-Key and use them with both 16 and 18AWG wire.
[URL=https://www.digikey.com/produc...l/en/molex-llc/0039000077/WM3112CT-ND/1643460
[/URL]https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/39-00-0082/WM1016-ND/1118559


----------



## rock14

thank you but buying from that seller from italy is expensive... i've found all the connector and they already come with all the pins but they are 18-24 so i was asking you if i could use a 16awg wire with these pins without problems.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock14*
> 
> thank you but buying from that seller from italy is expensive... i've found all the connector and they already come with all the pins but they are 18-24 so i was asking you if i could use a 16awg wire with these pins without problems.


I had problems (mostly with the male pins for some reason), but others have used them without any issues. It was a while back when I first tried sleeving, so it might have just been lack of experience and the crimper I was using. I'm sure there are other vendors that carry the 16AWG pins where your located. You can get the molex part number from the data sheet.


----------



## rock14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> I had problems (mostly with the male pins for some reason), but others have used them without any issues. It was a while back when I first tried sleeving, so it might have just been lack of experience and the crimper I was using. I'm sure there are other vendors that carry the 16AWG pins where your located. You can get the molex part number from the data sheet.


thank you! last thing.. i have a 18 awg crimper if i buy the 16 awg pins can i make them work with my crimper or i have to buy another one just for the 16 awg? i can't find enought information about this thing sorry for botherign you...


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock14*
> 
> thank you! last thing.. i have a 18 awg crimper if i buy the 16 awg pins can i make them work with my crimper or i have to buy another one just for the 16 awg? i can't find enought information about this thing sorry for botherign you...


What crimper do you have? You can manually release the handle if it's overcrimping the terminal with 16AWG wire.


----------



## rock14

I have the iwiss SN-28B. if you know it, is it a decent crimper? i'm planning to do something like 150 crimps...


----------



## Juris

I know this was asked about 3 years ago on the thread re the missing 24th cable on 24 pin atx connections but the answers I found weren't 100% conclusive. I have an EVGA PSU and the Bitfenix Alchemy white sleeved full cable kit. I have some spare 60cm single pre-sleeved Bitfenix wires lying around with pins and plastic sheaths already attached at both ends.

My Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5 mobo has a pin in the socket for the 24th cable (-5v). Am I ok to attach a cable with pin into this with the other end still in its plastic sheath attached to nothing or will it short anything out or cause other problems. Don't want to fry anything but the look of the missing cable is bugging me. Cheers.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rock14*
> 
> I have the iwiss SN-28B. if you know it, is it a decent crimper? i'm planning to do something like 150 crimps...


Do a couple of practice crimps first and see how it works.


----------



## Pandora51

Not sure if it the right place to ask but how easy is the Seasonic Prime 650w Titanium for sleeving? Are these weird pci-e cables meantioned in the jonnyguru review an huge issue?

If thats the case is the EVGA SuperNova G3 550w/650w a good choice for sleeving? I have some experience with sleeving since I did it with an old Corsair HX750 a while ago but I want to prevent difficult sleeving and weird cables etc


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> I know this was asked about 3 years ago on the thread re the missing 24th cable on 24 pin atx connections but the answers I found weren't 100% conclusive. I have an EVGA PSU and the Bitfenix Alchemy white sleeved full cable kit. I have some spare 60cm single pre-sleeved Bitfenix wires lying around with pins and plastic sheaths already attached at both ends.
> 
> My Gigabyte AX370 Aorus Gaming 5 mobo has a pin in the socket for the 24th cable (-5v). Am I ok to attach a cable with pin into this with the other end still in its plastic sheath attached to nothing or will it short anything out or cause other problems. Don't want to fry anything but the look of the missing cable is bugging me. Cheers.


You have to check the pinout for your PSU, connecting 24 wires to the motherboard will overloard it & power will be very unstable. Every motherboard has all 24 pin holes fully pinned with contacts. Each PSU maker uses different pin layouts.

You also want to get a PSU tester, plugging the cable into the motherboard with bad pin layout can destroy all your hardware.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pandora51*
> 
> Not sure if it the right place to ask but how easy is the Seasonic Prime 650w Titanium for sleeving? Are these weird pci-e cables meantioned in the jonnyguru review an huge issue?
> 
> If thats the case is the EVGA SuperNova G3 550w/650w a good choice for sleeving? I have some experience with sleeving since I did it with an old Corsair HX750 a while ago but I want to prevent difficult sleeving and weird cables etc


I don't use seasonic, EVGA is one of the easiest when it comes to sleeving & Wiring.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> You have to check the pinout for your PSU, connecting 24 wires to the motherboard will overloard it & power will be very unstable. Every motherboard has all 24 pin holes fully pinned with contacts. Each PSU maker uses different pin layouts.


Thanks for the reply and info. Just for clarity does that still apply if I'm connecting the 24th cable to the mobo atx header but not to the psu itself. I'm thinking there won't be any power going through that cable as its not being fed by the psu. Cheers.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Thanks for the reply and info. Just for clarity does that still apply if I'm connecting the 24th cable to the mobo atx header but not to the psu itself. I'm thinking there won't be any power going through that cable as its not being fed by the psu. Cheers.


What would be the point of connecting it in the first place if no power is going through the wire?

You only want to use 23 wires & no more. I suggest reading the other threads about cable creation & visit youtube to watch some of the videos. One wrong move can cost you thousands of dollars in damage.

I would also check some build logs that cables were created from the ground up. I covered allot of cables in my build log & Jubijub should be covering some as well at some point.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> What would be the point of connecting it in the first place if no power is going through the wire?
> 
> You only want to use 23 wires & no more. I suggest reading the other threads about cable creation & visit youtube to watch some of the videos. One wrong move can cost you thousands of dollars in damage.
> 
> I would also check some build logs that cables were created from the ground up. I covered allot of cables in my build log & Jubijub should be covering some as well at some point.


Thanks I'll have a look at your build log. I wanted to insert it as a dummy cable purely for aesthetics so it doesn't need to be going to the PSU. I'm pretty OCD on cable training and its that one little gap in the 24 atx thats bugging me.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Thanks I'll have a look at your build log. I wanted to insert it as a dummy cable purely for aesthetics so it doesn't need to be going to the PSU. I'm pretty OCD on cable training and its that one little gap in the 24 atx thats bugging me.


That side is usually hidden already, so there really no point in connecting it. Plus they require a terminal for the wire to lock, Even if it's a dummy wire, it still going to be powered. Not to mention you already have plenty of wires crossing one another. do you really want to add another one to the mix?


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Thanks I'll have a look at your build log. I wanted to insert it as a dummy cable purely for aesthetics so it doesn't need to be going to the PSU. I'm pretty OCD on cable training and its that one little gap in the 24 atx thats bugging me.


You could splice in the dummy wire using big elf's method:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1366966/yup-another-my-first-sleeving-project-thread


----------



## Big Elf

Well remembered msd0. Another alternative is to make up a short cable around 100-150mm long that connects to the PSU with all the twists and snaking and then make up an extension cable to connect to that and then to the motherboard. It only works though if you can hide the short untidy bit. Something like this:


----------



## Revan654

This Also works well(It's even smaller then the previous photo):



+ Extension

I personally don't like using extensions, If I can I only do a complete cable from start to finish. There are times that is just not possible. The twist should only start to happen once the cables are under or behind the motherboard.

This is how I did Mine (I have a very shape curve to mine). Plus the twist only start once it clears the holes & enters the right side of my case.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Well remembered msd0. Another alternative is to make up a short cable around 100-150mm long that connects to the PSU with all the twists and snaking and then make up an extension cable to connect to that and then to the motherboard. It only works though if you can hide the short untidy bit. Something like this:


Yea that would work really well.


----------



## josephytakagi

Can I get a cart check before ordering please?

I'm making a set of cables for a Corsair SF 450. I want to make sure I got the right connectors for the SF 450, & that everything else is compatible.

I added some extra terminals for practice. I'm not 100% decided on fan extensions so I added extra 4 pin male/female. Added some extra sata power connectors to experiment with. And I threw in some of the USB(?) connector stuff in case it's right for 2-pin temperature probes


I already have
-wire- 18awg ul1015 & 24awg ul1007
-crimpers- SN-2549
-strippers- knipex
-molex depinning tool
-5/16 heat shrink, planning on doing heat shrink-less paracord.
-soldering iron

I think all I need is
-paracord
-maybe thread for sewing, a butane lighter, super glue, paracord needle




Can I make a simple jumper like I pictured to bleed a loop without the rest of the system? :Buy a 18pin female connector, jump green/black, then attach the 12v/ground to a 4pin PWM connector for the pump?

Can paracord handle 4pin 24awg fan cables? The outer diameter should be <1.5mm. Should I get 25' of Teleios

Thanks for all the help & info on the forum


----------



## Revan654

josephytakagi said:


> Can I get a cart check before ordering please?
> 
> I'm making a set of cables for a Corsair SF 450. I want to make sure I got the right connectors for the SF 450, & that everything else is compatible.
> 
> I added some extra terminals for practice. I'm not 100% decided on fan extensions so I added extra 4 pin male/female. Added some extra sata power connectors to experiment with. And I threw in some of the USB(?) connector stuff in case it's right for 2-pin temperature probes
> 
> 
> I already have
> -wire- 18awg ul1015 & 24awg ul1007
> -crimpers- SN-2549
> -strippers- knipex
> -molex depinning tool
> -5/16 heat shrink, planning on doing heat shrink-less paracord.
> -soldering iron
> 
> I think all I need is
> -paracord
> -maybe thread for sewing, a butane lighter, super glue, paracord needle
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I make a simple jumper like I pictured to bleed a loop without the rest of the system? :Buy a 18pin female connector, jump green/black, then attach the 12v/ground to a 4pin PWM connector for the pump?
> 
> Can paracord handle 4pin 24awg fan cables? The outer diameter should be <1.5mm. Should I get 25' of Teleios
> 
> Thanks for all the help & info on the forum


- Teleios is nothing but cheap Chinese sleeving and I've ran into issues using it. Two batches of the same color had different shades and had problems feeding the wire through the sleeving.
- Check your PSU bag, Most PSU come with Jumpers now. I know all EVGA PSU come with them
- SN-2549 are cheap crimpers and I've seen/heard more then one run into issues with them since they didn't have proper teeth. Looking for cheapest crimpers might save some money, but it might cost you in the long run with supplies and having to re-do the wires due to bad crimps. I suggest using the CTX3 made by MDPC-X.
- At 1.50mm the four wire will have issues getting it through Paracord 550. I have some 22 AWG with a much smaller OD and 4th wire always gave me issues. It's also creates a very bulky and unappealing look. I use Paracord 95 and create single sleeved for fan cables (it can't be done for USB, I've tried many times with many brands). I Use MDPC-X for everything else.










- For butane lighter, I suggest going flamless. Dremel makes the best one and they have a addon for a hot knife, Which makes sleeving cutting very easy. They also have a addon on a soldier iron. You get three tools you need in one.
- knipex, it's fine but it will not strip it small enough size for the terminals. It starts at 6mm, you want around 3 to 4mm. I suggest using Molex Wire Stripper( 63817-0000 ). It's more money but worth the price.
- If your working with Paracord you need a paracord threader, if you don't the wire or terminal to snag and tear the outside.
- As for Wire I suggest using 16 AWG and 22 AWG or 15 AWG(MDPC-X) and 23 AWG(MDPC-X). Most PSU makers have switched from 18 AWG to 16 AWG for the many cables.
- I would check MDPC-X sleeving before buying sleeving, It's best sleeving on the market. I personally favor MDPC-X Classic or Small. You can buy MDPC-X from Mod-one.com (US) or https://www.cable-sleeving.com (MDPC-X Webstore).
- I also suggest buying Molex branded Terminals and Connectors, Avoid HWT connectors at all cost there cheap garbage.


----------



## jsutter71

Parachute cord. I cringe every time I say that word because Paratroopers don't call it that. Anyways, It comes in multiple sizes and color, fireproof, and makes cables look cleaner when properly made. I make the majority of my own cables with the exception of USB 3.0 and SATA data cables. My power supply is an EVGA Supernova 1600 T2. I never use extensions and my case is very big, Caselabs STH10, and I had no choice but to make my own cables. Wire size should be determined by what your using it for. You don't have to use 16 AWG wire for USB cables for example. Their is an art to a properly crimped properly made cable and I've seen a lot of sloppy cable work from some of the manufacturers and big brand companies. Like the saying goes if you want something done right then do it yourself. Anyways Parachute cord comes in sizes as small as 95 all the way to 850. All my power cables are 16AWG, individually sleeved, using no heat shrink. The only cables I make that are not individually sleeved or use heat shrink are USB cables or cables that I have to mod such as the power cables from peripheral equipment that I have to shorten in order to reduce clutter. The power cables from my pumps for example or fan cables. 
Here is where I get my cord from. Cheap and good quality. Their is a learning curb to cable making but it's far cheaper. As far as crimp terminals I strictly use Molex brand and Dupont brand terminals. Most PC stores OVERCHARGE like crazy for terminals. Sometimes I'll get some from PPCS or Mod one for example but Mouser has the best price by far and you can purchase high quality terminals in bulk and VERY cheap.
https://www.paracordplanet.com/

Mouser link
https://www.mouser.com/

Here's some pics of my system and some of my work. Equipment and cable box. I always test my cables to ensure proper performance.


----------



## Revan654

jsutter71 said:


> Parachute cord. I cringe every time I say that word because Paratroopers don't call it that. Anyways, It comes in multiple sizes and color, fireproof, and makes cables look cleaner when properly made. I make the majority of my own cables with the exception of USB 3.0 and SATA data cables. My power supply is an EVGA Supernova 1600 T2. I never use extensions and my case is very big, Caselabs STH10, and I had no choice but to make my own cables. Wire size should be determined by what your using it for. You don't have to use 16 AWG wire for USB cables for example. Their is an art to a properly crimped properly made cable and I've seen a lot of sloppy cable work from some of the manufacturers and big brand companies. Like the saying goes if you want something done right then do it yourself. Anyways Parachute cord comes in sizes as small as 95 all the way to 850. All my power cables are 16AWG, individually sleeved, using no heat shrink. The only cables I make that are not individually sleeved or use heat shrink are USB cables or cables that I have to mod such as the power cables from peripheral equipment that I have to shorten in order to reduce clutter. The power cables from my pumps for example or fan cables.
> Here is where I get my cord from. Cheap and good quality. Their is a learning curb to cable making but it's far cheaper. As far as crimp terminals I strictly use Molex brand and Dupont brand terminals. Most PC stores OVERCHARGE like crazy for terminals. Sometimes I'll get some from PPCS or Mod one for example but Mouser has the best price by far and you can purchase high quality terminals in bulk and VERY cheap.
> https://www.paracordplanet.com/
> 
> Mouser link
> https://www.mouser.com/


No Threader for Paracord? STH10 does require custom work, it's looks nice and clean too. No Cable Combs?


- I think you mean heat resistance, Paracord is not Fire Proof. Paracord is only Nylon.
- Why are you using 18 to 24 AWG terminals if your using 16 AWG? They do make 16 AWG terminals. Also reels are cheaper to buy if you need 100+ terminals.
- Dupont brand? You can use Molex Branded terminals for Dupont and USB 3.0.+
- Mouser is great, Fed-Ex keeps screwing up my deliveries. Don't forget about DigiKey. There are some items Mouser doesn't normally stock or a brand they don't carry which DigiKey. I also got my switches and such from Mouser/DigiKey as well.
- FYI, You can use Heatshrinkless style on Fans and Pumps. I've even managed to do my RGB Cables in heatshrinkless style. I also got Dupont in heatshrinkless. The spacing inside the connector is to all both sleeving and wire.
- I personally favor PET over Paracord. Paracord is a PIA to work with at times.


----------



## jsutter71

> No Threader for Paracord?


No. I prefer the old fashioned way of threading wire. 


> No Cable Combs?


Personal preference but no. Not a fan of combs.


> - I think you mean heat resistance, Paracord is not Fire Proof. Paracord is only Nylon.


Ok...Anything will burn given a high enough temp but flame ******ant when treated. Most importantly it doesn't catch fire in the traditional since but rather melts.


> - Why are you using 18 to 24 AWG terminals if your using 16 AWG? They do make 16 AWG terminals. Also reels are cheaper to buy if you need 100+


I have terminals, and wire in multiple different sizes. Depending on the component I'm powering and it's power requirements, I determine what terminal and wire to construct. 


> - Dupont brand? You can use Molex Branded terminals for Dupont and USB 3.0.+


Understood but again personal preference. Dupont invented Dupont terminals so why not use their creation. Pretty much all my other terminals are Molex brand though.


> - Mouser is great, Fed-Ex keeps screwing up my deliveries. Don't forget about DigiKey. There are some items Mouser doesn't normally stock or a brand they don't carry which DigiKey. I also got my switches and such from Mouser/DigiKey as well.


Mouser's in Mansfield Texas and I live in San Antonio so I always get my orders by the next day. Nothing against Digikey.


> - FYI, You can use Heatshrinkless style on Fans and Pumps. I've even managed to do my RGB Cables in heatshrinkless style. I also got Dupont in heatshrinkless. The spacing inside the connector is to all both sleeving and wire.


I've done it a few times but I have tremors which makes it hard for me to work with the smaller gauges. Alcohol helps my tremors but then my wife gets annoyed when I drink. :thumbsdow:thumbsdow


> - I personally favor PET over Paracord. Paracord is a PIA to work with at times.


I've discovered that the secret to paracord sleeving is the better quality the wire the easier it is to sleeve. Also make sure to use the appropriate size cord for the wire. 650 or 750 size cord for larger gauge wire. for smaller wire I typically don't do individual wire sleeving. Fan and USB cables for example.


----------



## Revan654

jsutter71 said:


> No. I prefer the old fashioned way of threading wire.
> 
> Personal preference but no. Not a fan of combs.
> 
> Ok...Anything will burn given a high enough temp but flame ******ant when treated. Most importantly it doesn't catch fire in the traditional since but rather melts.
> 
> I have terminals, and wire in multiple different sizes. Depending on the component I'm powering and it's power requirements, I determine what terminal and wire to construct.
> 
> Understood but again personal preference. Dupont invented Dupont terminals so why not use their creation. Pretty much all my other terminals are Molex brand though.
> 
> Mouser's in Mansfield Texas and I live in San Antonio so I always get my orders by the next day. Nothing against Digikey.
> 
> I've done it a few times but I have tremors which makes it hard for me to work with the smaller gauges. Alcohol helps my tremors but then my wife gets annoyed when I drink. :thumbsdow:thumbsdow
> 
> I've discovered that the secret to paracord sleeving is the better quality the wire the easier it is to sleeve. Also make sure to use the appropriate size cord for the wire. 650 or 750 size cord for larger gauge wire. for smaller wire I typically don't do individual wire sleeving. Fan and USB cables for example.


- It also introduces the chance of snagging. Which is one reason I dislike Paracord and why allot people go with PET like MDPC-X over cheaper Paracord.
- All Sleeving melts. Like I said it has heat resistance. 
- The "Dupont" terminal came from Berg Electronics with the creation of the Berg pin/header. Dupont Company is a chemical company. Harwin redefined the terminal years later which gave birth to the M20 series. Most are OEM and budget options, Which is why most companies use them. You can buy massive bulk orders for almost nothing. I personally favor SL Series, Higher quality connectors and holds allot better. Plus it has anti-vibration.
- Quality of Wire has nothing to do with Sleeving the wire through. PVC or higher grade materials, they all go through the sleeving the same. Another reason PET is better to use.


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## jsutter71

Revan654 said:


> - It also introduces the chance of snagging. Which is one reason I dislike Paracord and why allot people go with PET like MDPC-X over cheaper Paracord.
> - All Sleeving melts. Like I said it has heat resistance.
> - The "Dupont" terminal came from Berg Electronics with the creation of the Berg pin/header. Dupont Company is a chemical company. Harwin redefined the terminal years later which gave birth to the M20 series. Most are OEM and budget options, Which is why most companies use them. You can buy massive bulk orders for almost nothing. I personally favor SL Series, Higher quality connectors and holds allot better. Plus it has anti-vibration.
> - Quality of Wire has nothing to do with Sleeving the wire through. PVC or higher grade materials, they all go through the sleeving the same. Another reason PET is better to use.


To be fair Dow bought Berg in the 70's. Then in 93 Dupont sold Berg. So yes Berg made the terminals originally but nobody calls them Berg terminals. I have a pair of Berg/Dupont crimpers which I think are a royal pain in the ass to use but were made specifically for the terminals. I also forgot to add that I do have a wire threader, which I never really use because I discovered it's a pain to keep the wire inside while threading process making it more of a nuisance then an asset.


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## jsutter71

I just got this in the mail yesterday. The quality feels excellent and so far the only reasonably priced crimper I've seen that can crimp wires ranging between 15 to 26 AWG.


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## titus418

I am creating my own 24pin cable and was wondering what to do with an open pin. Will it be alright if i run a wire with connectors on it to open pin to open pin?


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## Revan654

titus418 said:


> I am creating my own 24pin cable and was wondering what to do with an open pin. Will it be alright if i run a wire with connectors on it to open pin to open pin?


if you mean the open slot, leave it. There no need to connect anything to it and create issues.


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## titus418

ok, im just worried its going to be noticeable and not as purdy on the mb side.


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## Himo5

ATX pin 20 is on the side of the ATX socket adjacent to the lug so that when the cable is looped from behind the motherboard the side of the row of the cable holding Pin 20 is concealed from view.

However, if you really need a full cable - and if there is a corresponding empty pin at the PSU outlet - it is possible to construct a non-conductive wire that can then be sleeved and look identical to the other wires. 

A Top E nylon guitar string can hold an ATX crimp pin and can be fitted with 2.4mm OD 2/1 clear heat shrink to act the part of insulation. 

You have to be very careful when melting the sleeve on the pin to make sure that the blue part of the flame only melts the sleeve over the very edge of the wire crimp. 

You get the heat shrink on the wire by first pushing as much of the guitar string into the heat shrink as you can and then gripping the heat shrink at the end of the string while stretching it back to where the string enters the shrink then grip shrink and string at the entry point and release your grip at the end of the string.

Use a heat gun or hair dryer to fix the heat shrink in place starting from one end move the gun/blower over the shrink slowly enough to shrink it completely and so avoid creating air bubbles.


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## titus418

Himo5 said:


> ATX pin 20 is on the side of the ATX socket adjacent to the lug so that when the cable is looped from behind the motherboard the side of the row of the cable holding Pin 20 is concealed from view.


Oh wow you are definitely right. Here i was thinking it was going to end up on the other side. That is great idea with the guitar string. Hopefully it never comes to that though. Thank you


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## jvillaveces

titus418 said:


> ok, im just worried its going to be noticeable and not as purdy on the mb side.


You can put a pin on the mobo side, and leave the psu side unpinned and unstripped. It will make the cable look nicer on the mobo side. :thumb:


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## Pandora51

Do you have any advice for PCIe (8/6 pins) cables with two connectors?

I did not even think about this issue untill yesterday. I don't think I want to crimp anything. Would it be okay if I use just one connector and put the rest of the wire (with heatshrink on it) into the sleeve and leave it there?


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## jvillaveces

Pandora51 said:


> Do you have any advice for PCIe (8/6 pins) cables with two connectors?
> 
> I did not even think about this issue untill yesterday. I don't think I want to crimp anything. Would it be okay if I use just one connector and put the rest of the wire (with heatshrink on it) into the sleeve and leave it there?


If you want to use the stock 6+2 cable, but you only need the "6" side, you can always cut off the 2-pin flush where the wires exit the 6-pin. That will look a lot better than a dangling 2-pin. If you don't want to mutilate your cables, you can always make or buy extensions.


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## samuelkwest

Hopefully this thread is still considered to be a living document... Even though the last post was a year ago.

I thought that someone here might have some insight on my question. Has anyone, when making a split wire, used those little mechanical splicers... like these: https://www.amazon.com/WATERS-GOOD-...way+straight+joint&qid=1555028251&s=hi&sr=1-1

This could be covered in shrink wrap to improve stability and appearance (and secure the sleeve material.) Such a splice would not only be a lot quicker, but perhaps more consistent. Certainly, it would also be a lot easier to guarantee proper length.

Thoughts?

Thanks,

- s.west﻿


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## WiSK

samuelkwest said:


> Hopefully this thread is still considered to be a living document... Even though the last post was a year ago.
> 
> I thought that someone here might have some insight on my question. Has anyone, when making a split wire, used those little mechanical splicers... like these: https://www.amazon.com/WATERS-GOOD-...way+straight+joint&qid=1555028251&s=hi&sr=1-1
> 
> This could be covered in shrink wrap to improve stability and appearance (and secure the sleeve material.) Such a splice would not only be a lot quicker, but perhaps more consistent. Certainly, it would also be a lot easier to guarantee proper length.﻿


I don't really like the look of such splicers. Maybe you could get pure transparent ones, those might look okay. Still, they are a bit bulky.

Shrink big enough to cover those connectors would not shrink small enough to hold the sleeving. You would need to glue the ends of the sleeving near the splicer, makes it tricky to get the maximum stretch. I would leave them without shrink.

It uses copper blades to transfer the power - so one of the wires must be left intact and you can't sleeve it whole unless the whole sleeve fits inside the splicer and the blades are able to cut through PET sleeving. Also, with such blades it's important to have exactly the right diameter of wire otherwise it can have either poor contact or cut the strands.

Are you looking to splice two wires? Or more? Are you looking to avoid soldering?


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## kinzano

Hi, I just finished making extensions 24 pin atx motherboard, any tools to test them before I plug them to my motherboard just to be safe. Thanks


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## Barefooter

kinzano said:


> Hi, I just finished making extensions 24 pin atx motherboard, any tools to test them before I plug them to my motherboard just to be safe. Thanks


You could use a continuity test on a digital voltmeter or one of these testers.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005F778JO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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