# OCN Speaker Club



## jarble

*all the links are up









If you would verify that you the link takes you to the post you want...

If it does great. If it does not please let me know the post you want and I will make it happen*

.Sup - Wharfedale Modus 1, KRK Rokit, custom sub
_02 - M-Audio BX5a's
||LAW||Doom - M-Audio AV30's
†Blade† - M-Audio AV 40
A-Dub - custom
ACharmingQuark - M-Audio Studiophile BX5a, M-Audio Studiophile Bx10s Subwoofer
ace8uk - KEF IQ1
admflameberg - Sony SS-B1000
ai7lcy - Quad 11L2
airbozo - Alesis Point seven's, Genelec 2029 BL-Y
AlanScott - custom
alexisd - Spekercraft AIM8 4
ALIGN - 3 M&K S150`s, 4 M&K SS150`s, 2 MX350 subs
AMC - M-Audio AV40
ANP !!! - Diamond 9.1
Andalusia - Axiom 5.1
Aura - PSB Platinum M2's
AUS.R34P3R - custom 5.1
battlecryawesome - Marathon DJ-2183
beanbagofdoom - Audioengine A2's
Behemoth777 - audioengine a2's + Polk PSW10
Benny99 - wharfedale 9.6,9.1,9cm,sw250 in 5.1 setup
biatchi - Kef 103.2
Binormalkilla - Polk Audio R50
Bizong - sierra-1
blur510 - Alesis M1 Active MKII
bobfig - custom 2.1
boydyboyd -Kef Q4s
BugBash - custom speakers
charbs152 - custom speakers
Chipp - Sansui SP-3000, Polk Audio PSW10
chinesekiwi - Tannoy Fusion 1, Mission 761i
Chunky-Bunker - Fisher
ciprianni - custom
ColSanderz - RS7's
computeruler - JBL s31II
coreyL - custom
Corky dorkelson - Hafler TRM-6
Cyberspyder - DIY Zaph ZBM4,Wadia 270 transport
Deagle50ae - custom speakers
deathconfess - Sony MU-TE-KI
dan0964 - Monitor Audio 5.1
Darren9 - Monitor BR2's, Monitor BR1's
dasparx - Marantz PM7200 -> 4x JAMO Compact 90 ,B&O Beocenter 2100 -> Philips HI-FI 22R36
Darkapoc - mix and match
darthspartan - lots of carvin speakers
Deano12345 - Q Acoustic 2010's
dragonxwas - DIY ?
drjoey1500 - Marantz HD550
Dyson Poindexter - Teledyne Acoustic Research AR94Sx
Ecchi-BANZAII!!! - Fisher F4/255 MKII
edgeh2o - AV123 ELT525 5.0, AV123 X-LS Encore 2.0
Eek - Swans M200MK II
el-John-o - Sherwood ST-4108 Package
ericld - JBL SCS500.1 X2, Polk Audio TSi 100s, Pioneer S-D9000
Eureka - M-Audio DM560
FaLLeNAn9eL - http://www.overclock.net/8450484-post1180.html
Fany - m-audio av40, Tannoy Reveal 501a
Farih - custom Electrovoice and Hardon Kardon 5.1
FearSC549 - Dayton B652, Acoustic Reference Studio Monitor 1201
Firestorm252 - Sony SS-B1000's
G.E.Nauticus - Kirsch K3
gorb - energy rc-10 & orb audio super eight, av123 elt525m & jbl venue sub12
GOTFrog - Energy ACT 6 5.0
Grossebeaver - B&W CM9
groundzero9 - GR Research V-2s
H3||scr3am - AV123 XLS Encores, AV123 X-Sub, ELT525 5.0, 4x ELT525T, 1x ELT525C, 2x ELT525M, 1x MFW-15
Havokr505 - mix and match
Hexa - Audioengine A2's
Hoodcom - Cerwin-Vega!, AT-8, custom
i_hax - Sansui AU-8500, Utah floorstanders, Pioneer SX-990, Yamaha NS-AW1
Interpolation - Yamaha YHT-280
Jack4L - Sony SS-S9
Jarble - Wharfdale Diamond 9.5, cerwin veaga xls 15s
jbalsa2 - RCA RS2652
jeffries7 - Monitor Audio BR2's
JeremyFr - Energy Take 5+1's
Jimmy2Shoe - unknown
JoeUbi - Definitive StudioMonitor 450s
Kluit - Bowers & Wilkins CM9
KoolGuy - 5.1 mix and match
koven - fritz carbon 7
Lifeshield- Sony STRDN1000, Boston Acoustics Soundware XS
Liighthead - custom
LingLing1337 - S30s
ljason8eg - Audioengine A5's, Velodyne Impact 12
LoGGi! - OR-306Xi
lolhax - JBL CF-100s
lozanoa11 - sony circa towers
Lozza - Tapco S8's
Luda - Klipsch KM4 KG3.5's, Sony 3 Way's, Cambridge Centerstage, sony 10" subwoofer
MagicBox - custom speakers 1x DSM25-FFL,2x DSM50-FFL, 2x TIW-360
mastertrixter - boston 2.1,fisher towers
Matt*S. - energy 5.1
Mauritio - 4x B&W Speakers
mega_option101 - Technics SB-X700
Metonymy - Onkyo HT-S7200 7.1
mfb412 - Schneider 5.1
Midnite8 - BX8a+SBX10
Mike-O - Wharfedale Diamond 9.2, Tannoy Mercury Mx-Sub 10
Mike! - MTX Model TP1200 ThunderPro2, Power Acoustik FUBR-12, bose rears
Mikecdm - B&W Nautilus 805
MoMurda - Sony HT-IS100
********* - mix and match 7.1
Mr Bear - RCA floor speakers, Polk Center channel, Bose dual cubes, Premier 12"
Mr_Pink57 - JBL S38II
MW041443 - Wharfdale Diamond 9.1
Mygaffer - Cambridge Soundworks Tower II
nafljhy - B&W CM1s
Namrac - Yamaha A526
Nardox - Yamaha NS-225F
NFF - mhc-gx45
Noname - Onix Reference 0.5
nookkin - polk 2.1
nowcontrol - custom
Nuginu - Paradigme Monitor 11, Paradigme DSP3400
oblivion.sky - KRK ROCKIT 8', JRX118SP
Panoptic - Paradigm Studio 20 V.5, AV-123 MFW-15
papcrap - 2xTannoy Mercury F4 Custom, Gale, eltax sub woofer, BaO S35, Wharfedale PPS1
Parsley - M-Audio AV40
Pauluski - Energy Veritas 1.8
pez - Cerwin-Vega D-3's
pioneerisloud - Pioneer CS-405
Powderhound - M-Audio AV40
Protezione - Yamaha NS-10M
Quantum Man - Dynaudio BM5a's
rduffy123 - Polk 40's
redalert - A2's
Reista - custom speakers
richardrubiks - custom 5.1
rrims - mix and match
ripster - custom
S2kphile - Mackie MR5, Mackie MR8s, Audioengine A2s
Seanicy - Sony 5.1, twin Pro Studio towers
shamslapchopwow - KLH Model 17's
Shiveron - BX5A
Sickened1 - polk5.1
silent_nightr34 - KRK Rp5's, RP10 sub
SilkRoad - Infinity Primus 150/PS210
Sistum Id - polk 5.1
SlyFox - AV123 ELT525M
slytown - KRK Rokit 6 Studio Monitors
solidsquirrell - polk montor 60 and 70
Soloz2 - Onix Reference 1 MKII, av123 ELT525T, av123 ELT525M, Tekton Designs 4.1
somebodysb2 - EgglestonWorks Ivy ?
SomeDooD - M-Audio BX5a
sonenelson - modified sony 5.1
sorage - klipsch rf-62, rs-42, rc-52, rw12d
sP00N - Cerwin Vega AT 10's, 400Watt Denmark
Spice003 - Polk Audio RTi A5 fronts, CSi A4 center, R15 surrounds, ED A2 - 300 Sub
spRICE - JBL 62T
SQBubble - custom
SteelyKen - Infinity Beta 50, Infinity Beta C360, Infinity Beta ES250, Outlaw LFM-1 in a 5.1 steup
Steggy - yamaha ns-a526
steve10 - Yamaha
SteveClay - mix and mach
Straits Fan - Wharfedale Modus Eight
Stupidhatmatt - Mythos STS
SUPER PISSED - Cerwin Vega CLS-12's
tagurtoast - custom 5.2
TARRCO - custom set up
Tator Tot - 2 x WAF-1 Speakers, Dayton SUB-80 8"
Tehrawk- Monitor Audio BX2 5.1
Th0m0_202 - mix and match
theCanadian - Custom + Dayton SUB-120 HT + Pioneer VSX-516
thatsboot3101 - Kenwood VR-6050, Primus 250 towers
The_Rocker - Monitor Audio BR2's
thecheeseofmanynames - Tannoy Reveal 501a + Allison Al8
ThumperSD - not listed
thunder12 - yamaha?
TI66ER - Mordaunt short MS902s + kef center
Tiger S. - Klipsch F-2's ,PSB Alpha's
tmunn - Cerwin Vega VS120, EPI Series 3 Model 100, Bose Acoustimass
tofunater - Sony STR-K740P + JBL Control One's
tUDJ - Wharfedale Diamond 9.1, Tannoy M3's , Quad 12L2
Turnoz - Celestion D 200, Stark Design SR-1
Villainstone - polk 5.1
Vincent Vega - Klipsch Chorus II
vwgti - klipsch B-3, KSW-12
Waqasr - Mission M74s
Witchdoctor - Polk Audio
Wizdumb - Tannoy pbm 6.5 passive
wtrskii3156 - 5.1 Definitive Technology Pro Cinema 60
xapno - 2 lanzar heritage subs, heresy IIs
Xeroni - Dayton B652
xguntherc - Bose Acoustimass 16 Series II
Xraven771 - Acoustic Energy Aegis x4
Zeva - polk Monitor 40s
Zig-Zag - Boston BA635s
Zippit - Mission E54(front), 1 Mission M3c2i (center) and Mission m30i (surround)


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## mega_option101

I would like to join


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## H3||scr3am

I will also join

Speakers:
AV123 XLS Encores








AV123 X-Sub








Acoustic Research Loud Speakers (don't know the model number)

some more pics in my gallery


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## eureka

I've no idea what kind of level they're on, but I have M-Audio BX5a studio monitors. Upgraded from Logitech X-230, so I guess I qualify considering:

Quote:

I personally feel that someone truly engaged and interested in speakers will have moved beyond Logitech, etc., at a certain point or is considering doing so eventually.
I got active speakers because I didn't really have room for an amplifier, or I'd have got some B&W DM601 and a Marantz amp.

Anyway!










Close-up


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## TUDJ

Wharfedale Diamond 9.1

No close-up pics yet but I'll get some!










I'm gonna have a quick bash at a banner too, we need a slogan!


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## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
we need a slogan!

Hehe yeah, forgot about the slogan







.


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## Parental Fornicator

Would Klipsch Promedia 2.1's count?


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## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Hehe yeah, forgot about the slogan







.

lol

OCN Speaker Club, because when wasting your money on headphones, and computers, just isn't wasting it fast enough...


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## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Parental Fornicator* 
Would Klipsch Promedia 2.1's count?

We will make a decision on that asap. Klipsch as a brand moves far beyond pc usage, but this particular set is directly meant for pc's, which makes it sort of sit in between the lines.

I will follow up for ya.


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## mega_option101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
lol

OCN Speaker Club, because when wasting your money on headphones, and computers, just isn't wasting it fast enough...

OCN Speaker Club, because a good sound system is not complete without speakers


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## ace8uk

I'm in







KEF IQ1's










System info: digital out to Marantz pm5003 amplifier powering a pair of KEF IQ1 bookshelf speakers.


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## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
I'm in







KEF IQ1's

I was very close to buying these, only an amazing deal on my current speakers stopped me









Are they in the Walnut finish? *Drool*


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## eureka

Bet they cost a lot, look awesome.

My speakers were 1/3 of my pay that month, although I don't earn that much, part time.


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## ace8uk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I was very close to buying these, only an amazing deal on my current speakers stopped me









Are they in the Walnut finish? *Drool*


Yeah, it was a choice between these, the Tannoy F1's (which I heard great things about but I thought they sounded aweful) or the warfedale 9.1's. I prefered the KEF's sound quality and the walnut finish is gorgeous







I need to get a better picture of them


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## Chipp

I'll have to get some glamor shots of the setup tonight.


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## S2kphile

I'll take some pictures of my setup. Does Audioengine A2's count on Auralex Iso Pads and Essence STX sound card count?

I might pick up some A5's for my HDTV

For slogan: We take our Sound SERIOUSLY =)


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## TUDJ

I just had a go at a banner: -










OT - Thanks for my 200th REP whoever that was









EDIT:

I can't spell because!

I'll change it if its picked to be used


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## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I just had a go at a banner: -










OT - Thanks for my 200th REP whoever that was









201 by my count...


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## eureka

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tudj* 
ot - thanks for my 200th rep whoever that was









:d


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## MW041443

I own a pair of limited edition Wharfdale Diamond 9.1's. Can I join?


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## Gollie

Oh NO...I need to get out of here


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## MW041443

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gollie*


Oh NO...I need to get out of here


Not audiophilic enough for you?


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## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MW041443*


Not audiophilic enough for you?


Looking at his sig he only has cans


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## Vincent Vega

Hi. Im glad someone finally did this.

I use a Yamaha htr-5990 for my main sound system. My fronts are a set of Klipsch Chorus IIs.

If I am in this club, I have a question for its members.

Im building a new center channel speaker for my main system. Cant seem to find anything that can keep up with the old Klispch. Where can I find information on building crossovers? If possible, up to a 4 way crossover.


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## TUDJ

This could be useful - I didn't read it all but it seems to be talking about what you want.


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## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vincent Vega*


Hi. Im glad someone finally did this.

I use a Yamaha htr-5990 for my main sound system. My fronts are a set of Klipsch Chorus IIs.

If I am in this club, I have a question for its members.

Im building a new center channel speaker for my main system. Cant seem to find anything that can keep up with the old Klispch. Where can I find information on building crossovers? If possible, up to a 4 way crossover.


build one of these:
http://gr-research.com/index.asp?Pag...ROD&ProdID=117


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## soloz2

I guess I'll never get away without posting here. This is part of one of my speaker setups. I just finished these today







My latest 'upgrade' DIY outriggers for my av123 ELT525T's




























Preliminary listening seems that the highs aren't quite as open as previously (I was using 12x12" granite slabs under the speakers) so more listening tests are in order. The speakers are more sable, but I may look into 18x18" slabs :dizzy:


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## Aura

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Gollie*


Oh NO...I need to get out of here


Oh, you're staying the hell in here whether or not you want to, Gollie-sir







.

Keep them banners coming, I'll make a ghetto vote for it sometime this week or something







.


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## wire

I can work on a banner right now for you guys. You don't happen to have a motto yet?

EDIT: Here we go.


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## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I guess I'll never get away without posting here. This is part of one of my speaker setups. I just finished these today







My latest 'upgrade' DIY outriggers for my av123 ELT525T's

Preliminary listening seems that the highs aren't quite as open as previously (I was using 12x12" granite slabs under the speakers) so more listening tests are in order. The speakers are more stable, but I may look into 18x18" slabs :dizzy:

You drilled into the bottom of those pretties?









What was the problem with the 12" slabs? Did you nearly knock them over?


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## mega_option101

These banners are looking to be very promising









Keep them coming you guys have serious skills


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## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
No close-up pics yet but I'll get some!

As promised


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## ace8uk

Oooh, those do look good in black ash!


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## exileschild

I'm going to subscribe so I can learn from the best.







I've been contemplating on putting together an above average setup but my wallet says otherwise. I know once I go in, I'll never go back.









I have a slogan that is simple but gets the message across.. 'Hearing is believing.' or 'When quantity just doesn't cut it.'

Nice setups btw.


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## ace8uk

Tudj, how does that beresford DAC sound? I'm saving for a DAC and Sub to add to my current set up. I was considering the beresford DAC and the new Cambridge audi DAC magic, but the cambridge audio is about twice the price


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## Namrac

I'll get that list started when I have some free time, probably tomorrow, I've got 3 classes and an exam to study for today.

It'd be really helpful if everyone that's posted could list their system components in their post, so I don't have to go around trying to identify everything that's been posted in picture form.


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## corky dorkelson

I don't have any pics of my speaks up close, but here is a wide angle of my setup.









I have these speakers: Hafler TRM-6 powered studio monitors.









I am running them through a NHT X1 crossover, and have a NHT A1 Amp powering a MB-Quart 10-inch subwoofer in a custom enclosure.

Would love to join this club!!!!!


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## noname

I'll make a better banner for the club tonight


















Onix reference 0.5s

http://themasors.com/ocn/ergo/ocn/IMG_2780.jpg


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## corky dorkelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
I'll make a better banner for the club tonight










I have those same auralex mopads.


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## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *corky dorkelson* 
I have those same auralex mopads.

Yeah, they are good stuff.


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## Parental Fornicator

Idea for a motto: OCN Speaker Club - Sound so good it hertz.


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## [PWN]Schubie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Gollie* 
Oh NO...I need to get out of here

run while you still can!


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## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
We will make a decision on that asap. Klipsch as a brand moves far beyond pc usage, but this particular set is directly meant for pc's, which makes it sort of sit in between the lines.

I will follow up for ya.

Follow-up:

Klipsch Promedia's, Swan M10's, and all other sets that are exclusively intended for pc application leave a considerable amount to be desired and don't quite fit the parameters for the club. This was a group decision, apologies for those who may have been interested.


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## [PWN]Schubie

so my uber 1337 5500s are a no go?


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## S2000_Skyline12

I'll make a banner. Though I can't get in the club cause I have Logitech Z-5300e









Edit:









Go to View Image.


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## Parental Fornicator

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Follow-up:

Klipsch Promedia's, Swan M10's, and all other sets that are exclusively intended for pc application leave a considerable amount to be desired and don't quite the parameters for the club. This was a group decision, apologies for those who may have been interested.

Well that sucks but it is what it is. I'll be back when I get a receiver hooked up to my infinity RS1's


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## noname

Made a banner: can make revisions


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## S2kphile

I guess I don't make the cut to in the this club







. I guess I need to find better self amplified studio monitors.


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## eureka

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2kphile* 
I guess I don't make the cut to in the this club







. I guess I need to find better self amplified studio monitors.




















I still don't even know if I qualify.


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## xguntherc

So my Bose Companion 3's don't qualify.. ??

I have my Bose Companions, and then I also have 2 of the Speakers from the Bose Acoustimass 16 Series II speakers. the nice surround sound kit they sell, my neighbor bought them.and didn't need all 5 that it came with. So I got the 2 rears for FREE.. they sound amazing.

oh, and if anyone wants to see some REAL speakers.. my Neighbor has some Martin Logans.. the biggest ones they have.. If you've ever even heard of Martin Logan, They aren't your normal Speaker. read up on them. His look like these, and were WAY to much money, but to be honest, they are by far the most amazing sounding things I've ever heard in my entire life. they are amazing. thats why he GAVE me the Bose speakers, witch some people wish they had, he gave away. lol
http://www.us.martinlogan.com/speaker_intro/purity.html


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## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
You drilled into the bottom of those pretties?









What was the problem with the 12" slabs? Did you nearly knock them over?

I didn't drill into my speakers!







I'm not crazy! they already had threaded inserts for spikes. All I did was get the correct size bolts to fit the inserts and used the outriggers to move he spikes out for more stability and easier leveling... which I still need to level them...

the 12" slabs only left about 1/2" left to right and I was afraid that if someone bumped them the pikes would slide off the edge and be more likely to fall over than before... thus negating one of the main reasons for building the outriggers in the first place.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
Tudj, how does that beresford DAC sound? I'm saving for a DAC and Sub to add to my current set up. I was considering the beresford DAC and the new Cambridge audi DAC magic, but the cambridge audio is about twice the price









I'd stay away from beresford. I picked one up after hearing so many positive reviews and it didn't compare to the zhalu I had at the time. I contacted stanley and he offered to send me a new revised unit and we agreed to wait for the updated version to come out. Well once it did he reniged on his offer and only sent me a new enclosure and a couple resistors. And recently I saw where he threatened to sue someone on head-fi for posting pictures of the guts of his DAC vs the generic version... which seems to say to me that they are the same and there is no reason to spend the extra $$ for the one stamped beresford. On top of that he has paid shills who just hang out on forums... and I don't have respect for companies who do that... I for one will never do that for my own business.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Follow-up:

Klipsch Promedia's, Swan M10's, and all other sets that are exclusively intended for pc application leave a considerable amount to be desired and don't quite the parameters for the club. This was a group decision, apologies for those who may have been interested.

I just wanted to add that it is not we don't feel many of these systems do not offer great sound and are ideal for what they do, but they do not fit into the ideals for creating this thread. We also want to avoid the pitfalls of saying x PC speaker system is really good and can be included but y system has to be excluded. No one single person here has heard every single speaker system out there and even if they had I don't think it wise for one person to 'make the rules'

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xguntherc* 
So my Bose Companion 3's don't qualify.. ??

I have my Bose Companions, and then I also have 2 of the Speakers from the Bose Acoustimass 16 Series II speakers. the nice surround sound kit they sell, my neighbor bought them.and didn't need all 5 that it came with. So I got the 2 rears for FREE.. they sound amazing.

oh, and if anyone wants to see some REAL speakers.. my Neighbor has some Martin Logans.. the biggest ones they have.. If you've ever even heard of Martin Logan, They aren't your normal Speaker. read up on them. His look like these, and were WAY to much money, but to be honest, they are by far the most amazing sounding things I've ever heard in my entire life. they are amazing. thats why he GAVE me the Bose speakers, witch some people wish they had, he gave away. lol
http://www.us.martinlogan.com/speaker_intro/purity.html

Martin Logan's would be accepable! most of bose's lineup (and all of their current lineup) are not.


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## Aura

Be weary of placement with ML's. They need a *ton* of space around them for positioning.


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## ace8uk

Thanks for the heads up soloz, I guess it might be worth saving the extra Â£80 for the Cambridge Audio DAC Magic then. Another plus for the DAC magic would be that I could go to the Richersounds store about 15 minutes drive away and pick it up from there, or return it to there if needed. It's supposed to be a better DAC anyway, and I love the warranty and customer service that you get at richersounds


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## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ace8uk*


Thanks for the heads up soloz, I guess it might be worth saving the extra Â£80 for the Cambridge Audio DAC Magic then. Another plus for the DAC magic would be that I could go to the Richersounds store about 15 minutes drive away and pick it up from there, or return it to there if needed. It's supposed to be a better DAC anyway, and I love the warranty and customer service that you get at richersounds










You can also ask them for a demo before you buy


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## H3||scr3am

Oh Noes, my eyes are too big, and hungry for a MHDT Havana and a Benedix Redbank 6385...


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## Hoodcom

Do I qualify?









A short video of my setup. xP

  
 YouTube - SPL and Sony Xplod subwoofers  



 
KLH Bookshelf speakers are modified, I have added real crossovers and real tweeters in them.









They used to have no crossovers and fake tweeters... their 'so called tweeters' looked like a dome tweeter on the outside, but when you take it out, all you see is a thin metal thing (What are those things called?) with two wires hooked up, glued to a plastic piece that looks like a dome tweeter.

The bad rattle sound is from the desk...


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## mega_option101

Nice little video


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## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mega_option101*


Nice little video










Thanks! I plan to make another one, a lot better, but I need to get new batteries for the camera first.. Also better lighting in my room.

By the way, I used my older Pioneer Receiver on these speakers (It's like yours, but slightly different model.) So you can also see what those Pioneers are capable of. I would have turned it up higher, but I don't want to risk blowing my bookshelf speakers. 30watt 4" woofers in them.. though they do seem to handle high power well as it is.


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## waqasr

Ive got a Denon PMA 250se amp and a pair of Jamo studio 170 floor standing speakers..can i join?


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## xguntherc

the ML have plenty of space around them, and they sound amazing. Back a few years ago they were like $3,000 or something outragous. he got them when Ultimate Electronics went out a business in the area. 2 big ones that are about 6 feet for rear, and 2 4 footers for the fronts, and a Triple 8" SUB enclosure thing that they list on there site it's a great sounding sub box.

I'm getting the smaller logans in about 3 weeks. and I'll post some pics.







With a Marantz to power them of course.


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## rock3ralex

私はハイテクスピーカーログのペアがあります。


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## Hoodcom

Okay, just to completely update my post of my PC setup... I am re-doing the whole setup... Front speakers stay though, but I decided to use my coaxial audio out so I am changing out receivers. (Sheesh, I can't make up my own mind on what I want on here.)









I'll have pictures up later tonight. ^^


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## curly haired boy

i don't suppose my 5 dollar found-at-the-thrift-store speakers would qualify... although now that they're hooked up to my desktop and have some decent signal, they sound rather good imo.









i dunno, does cambridge soundworks meet the reqs?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *curly haired boy* 
i don't suppose my 5 dollar found-at-the-thrift-store speakers would qualify... although now that they're hooked up to my desktop and have some decent signal, they sound rather good imo.









i dunno, does cambridge soundworks meet the reqs?

what model?


----------



## Chipp

Finally got around to taking a picture of my gear... As it stands now, here is what I have:

Sources:
Creative Zen Vision:M
ReVoX B225 CD Player
Yamaha CT-800 Tuner

Amplification:
Samson S700 Power Amp

Speakers/Sub:
Sansui SP-3000 cabinets, supplemented from ~80hz down by a Polk Audio PSW10

Additional plans from here?
I really need to build a source switcher; as of right now I still am manually switching from source to source. I'd like to get spikes for the Sansuis, and they also need the capacitors replaced in the crossovers. They are drifting off value majorly. At a certain point, the Sansuis will need to be replaced with something smaller, but what that might be I have not determined yet...


----------



## Mikecdm

Here is a pic of one of my N805's


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
what model?

SBS52's for the right and left

MicroWorks subwoofer


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*


SBS52's for the right and left

MicroWorks subwoofer


they look to be 'computer' speakers.


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


they look to be 'computer' speakers.


hah... that'd be a 'no', then. alright. i don't mind - perhaps later i'll hook up my dad's onkyos.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *curly haired boy*


hah... that'd be a 'no', then. alright. i don't mind - perhaps later i'll hook up my dad's onkyos.










A quick google search said they were 'multimedia' speakers


----------



## curly haired boy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
A quick google search said they were 'multimedia' speakers

which means they're not up to the specifications of this thread, correct? if i recall correctly, a post in the thread said setups must be in the "audiophile" range, i.e. nothing designed exclusively for a computer. i'm not sure that mine are or not.

i dunno, maybe i'm misunderstanding you. clarification, please!


----------



## spice003

didn't even know this club existed, here is my set up. RTI A1 front, CSI A4 center, Sur, R15s, sub PSW303.
rti a1s bi-amped sound so nice.


----------



## TUDJ

Nice setup Spice.

Aura, any chance of a member list in the OP and get a vote on a banner going?


----------



## soloz2

splice, get those monitors on stands and they'll sound better


----------



## spice003

yeah i know, i can't afford everything at once though. i bought dt 770 and onkyo this month. Soon though! they have a lot of bass on when they hang the wall though(i like







)

what i'm afraid of is that some body might know them off the stands. I wanna get the rti a5's or 7s and move these to the back this summer.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 
yeah i know, i can't afford everything at once though. i bought dt 770 and onkyo this month. Soon though! they have a lot of bass on when they hang the wall though(i like







)

what i'm afraid of is that some body might know them off the stands. I wanna get the rti a5's or 7s and move these to the back this summer.

They look out of the way (ish)

I have my 1m tall stands just 4-5ft from my door against the wall and they havn't been knocked yet - once the people who frequent your room know they are there I reckon they are safe







, you can mass load most stands aswell so if you fill half the way up with sand then they will be pretty hard to knock over, I have my speakers stuck to the top of the stand with Blu-Tac and it holds them really well.

You'll be impressed with the sonic improvements too


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Aura, any chance of a member list in the OP and get a vote on a banner going?









Member list has been updated and is in the second post of the thread - our friend Namrac is the manager of it.

~~~

Alrighty, banner options, just post whichever one you like the most, I'll tally the votes up in a day or two and the highest one takes the cake:

*Banner #1*










*Banner #2*










*Banner #3*










*Banner #4*










Big thanks to the guys behind the banners - you all did a great job and I personally like all of them.

We will choose a slogan after the banner decision has been made.


----------



## Chipp

#1 gets my vote, Aura.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Member list has been updated and is in the second post of the thread - our friend Namrac is the manager of it.

~~~

Alrighty, banner options, just post whichever one you like the most, I'll tally the votes up in a day or two and the highest one takes the cake

Big thanks to the guys behind the banners - you all did a great job and I personally like all of them.

We will choose a slogan after the banner decision has been made.

You da man


----------



## eureka

#2 looks best as a banner imo


----------



## Aura

The Club is now a sticky btw.


----------



## Namrac

Banner 4 gets my vote.


----------



## [PWN]Schubie

can i vote not being in the club yet?









if so #2 gets mine


----------



## cyberspyder

Homemade speakers? Surpasses Encores for a fraction of the price built right (Zaph ZBM4). Also the Peerless sub I have in the works....1 1/2 thick MDF enclosure with a 500watt BASH amp.


----------



## spice003

i like banner #4


----------



## jarble

is this good enough to get in?

A Pioneer 5.1 with a modded sub and the L and R replaced with RCA bookshelf speakers.

Attachment 98026
Attachment 98027


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 
Homemade speakers? Surpasses Encores for a fraction of the price built right (Zaph ZBM4). Also the Peerless sub I have in the works....1 1/2 thick MDF enclosure with a 500watt BASH amp.

DIY absolutely qualifies







.


----------



## MW041443

Sweet. I'm in a list!

If anyone likes #2 I can easily change the slogan. 'overclocking our ears' is pretty awful now I think about it.

EDIT: Attached Google images of the Diamond's I own.

Attachment 98037Attachment 98038


----------



## H3||scr3am

Banner 4 gets my vote


----------



## eureka

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


is this good enough to get in?

A Pioneer 5.1 with a modded sub and the L and R replaced with RCA bookshelf speakers.

Attachment 98026
Attachment 98027


All I can say is dude...

They look crazy.


----------



## mega_option101

Banner #1 gets my vote









However, I do also like #4


----------



## Ecchi-BANZAII!!!

I have some 4-way speakers from the old age in my room...
Fisher F4/255 Mk.II


----------



## Mikecdm

I like the way that those fisher's look but are you sure that they are 4-way. They look like they would be 3-way to me.


----------



## Ecchi-BANZAII!!!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mikecdm* 
I like the way that those fisher's look but are you sure that they are 4-way. They look like they would be 3-way to me.

The one in the top is the screamer and the one below is the treble the two in the lower section are mid segments.(Don't know the English terms for the different speakers but that's what it is anyway.
Thanks


----------



## Mikecdm

Its usually tweeter > mid-range > mid-bass

The reason that I thought that they are 3-way instead of 4-way is because usually the two woofers on the bottom play the same frequency. There just happen to be two of them to increase output.


----------



## S2kphile

I'm picking up some Mackie MR5's. Does those studio monitors qualify also?

EDIT: I like Banner #4 simple & plain


----------



## corky dorkelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2kphile* 
I'm picking up some Mackie MR5's. Does those studio monitors qualify also?

Mine didn't apparently.


----------



## S2kphile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *corky dorkelson* 
Mine didn't apparently.









You have a sick setup







. Too many speakers for my blood though


----------



## corky dorkelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2kphile* 
You have a sick setup







. Too many speakers for my blood though









Those are not all in use.







My setup is the first image, used for audio production.


----------



## [PWN]Schubie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *corky dorkelson* 
Mine didn't apparently.









my guess is your post was overlooked


----------



## eureka

Quote:


Originally Posted by *corky dorkelson* 
Mine didn't apparently.









My M-Audio are studio monitors.


----------



## S2kphile

I have a question hopefully someone here can answer. I just purchased a set of Mackie MR5 Studio Monitors, would pairing it with KRK10s Powered Subwoofer be okay? I'm just trying to see if someone has done it because I have a hard time understanding how it would connect with each other and the crossover freq, amps, etc.


----------



## cyberspyder

I think we need an update on the member list


----------



## Namrac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cyberspyder*


I think we need an update on the member list










Yes, but I've been extremely busy lately, and ask that everyone please be patient. I can't sit around watching this thread 24/7.


----------



## noname

anyone looking for some reference 1s?
http://av123forum.com/showthread.php?t=40800


----------



## [PWN]Schubie

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
anyone looking for some reference 1s?
http://av123forum.com/showthread.php?t=40800

...i wasnt...thanks a lot


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *[PWN]Schubie* 
...i wasnt...thanks a lot










like... is this a... joke?


----------



## [PWN]Schubie

i havent, and am trying not to, but boy its tempting, and not a good time to be tempted like so.


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *[PWN]Schubie*


i havent, and am trying not to, but boy its tempting, and not a good time to be tempted like so.


Oh. 
And yes, its so hard not to. These are one of the best set of speakers out there. I have their little brother and these are insane. According to soloz (whos owned both) he says the reference 1 blow away the 0.5s .

Its pretty expensive though


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


Oh. 
And yes, its so hard not to. These are one of the best set of speakers out there. I have their little brother and these are insane. According to soloz (whos owned both) he says the reference 1 blow away the 0.5s .

Its pretty expensive though










no comparison.


----------



## thunder12

Would love to be part of this club. Not sure i qualify tho. Here are my speakers. I need help with positioning etc







Atm i have two of these positioned behind me that i found in the loft:



















I also have two smaller sony stereo speakers on my desk in front. Not exactly surround sound but i like it nevertheless. For my Amp i use A technics SU-Z550

Thunder.


----------



## alexisd

Hope mines count even my set up is all in ceiling.
Speakercraft Aim8 4,and is a 7.1 set up.How the sound?LOL,in the meter goes all the way to 130 db's.


----------



## SilkRoad

I would love to join the club.

Music Rig:

Harman Kardon AVR635
Samsung DVD-1080p7 (bitstream to AVR)
Infinity Primus 150's
Infinity PS210 Subwoofer

I will take pics of the sub tomarrow, my battery is charging as we speak.



















Before someone sais it dusting is in progress right now.


----------



## soloz2

I have the same desk.


----------



## SilkRoad

Yours is a little cleaner though...







(goes back to cleaning)


----------



## procpuarie

i like that desk! where you get it?


----------



## SilkRoad

I got mine at office max like 3 years ago.


----------



## soloz2

Sounds about right. I think they were on clearance and a heck of a steal.


----------



## tofunater

Can I join? Sony STR-K740P + JBL Control One's


----------



## SilkRoad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MW041443*


Sweet. I'm in a list!

If anyone likes #2 I can easily change the slogan. 'overclocking our ears' is pretty awful now I think about it.

EDIT: Attached Google images of the Diamond's I own.

Attachment 98037Attachment 98038


I have to ask. have you heard the regular 9.1's? And if so what drove you to the anniversary edition? Other than the stunning looks of course. Basicly I am trying to decide if the added cost is worth it.


----------



## MW041443

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilkRoad*


I have to ask. have you heard the regular 9.1's? And if so what drove you to the anniversary edition? Other than the stunning looks of course. Basicly I am trying to decide if the added cost is worth it.


I don't believe there is any difference acoustically (though I haven't heard the regular 9.1's). I just wanted them to match the cabinet they sit on. I also got them pretty cheap off eBay.









Like you said though, they're stunning.


----------



## Aura

Spent this weekend at home, which meant a few listening sessions with the speakers. Sure will be nice next semester when I have them with me in the apartment and I won't have to go weeks on end without hearing them.


----------



## Namrac

Member list updated.


----------



## noname

Just a little update on my system:
I was able to flash my Chaintech AV-710 with Prodigy firmware.
The prodigy drivers/interface is soo much better and allows for even more tweaking.
It sounds a lot better as well, im loving the bit-perfect playback


----------



## alexisd

The speakers update is great but mines need to be corrected,is Speakercraft.Thank's.


----------



## SilkRoad

Took some better pictures today.


----------



## Aura

Apologies for my busyness fellas, banner #4 was the winner and is now in the op.

We need a slogan to go along with it, input is welcome from all







.

Edit - Realized I haven't shown my rig in this thread, so here's a few shots from a month or so back:


----------



## S2kphile

Slogan: We take our Sound Seriously.


----------



## H3||scr3am

slogan: super sounding silly 'spensive speaker setups


----------



## MW041443

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aura*


Apologies for my busyness fellas, banner #4 was the winner and is now in the op.

We need a slogan to go along with it, input is welcome from all








.

Edit - Realized I haven't shown my rig in this thread, so here's a few shots from a month or so back: [Removed Images]


I love the red towers. Very cool.


----------



## noname

Sexy speakers Aura. Too bad they lay dormant at your house.

Yay for the banner, i made that









As for the slogan, if we have a common consensus on one in general, then i will modify the banner.

Slogan: Clarity over Quantity


----------



## Darren9

Put me in, Monitor BR2's, 1's on the rear.


----------



## mega_option101

I guess that I don't make the list


----------



## S2kphile

Some pictures of my new Mackie MR5s on Auralex ISO pads.


----------



## TUDJ

I've just come across this interesting video posted on another forum - it's made about a group of Audiophiles in Athens, enjoy.


Greek Audiophile


----------



## corky dorkelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mega_option101* 
I guess that I don't make the list









Just edit yourself in


----------



## eureka

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2kphile* 
Some pictures of my new Mackie MR5s on Auralex ISO pads.









Already? What happened to your A2?


----------



## noname

Wow that greek dude is real serious. Modifiying his powerline to get a steady stream of 230 Vrms...wow.

Edit - I designed this little speakerclub tag for the signature.

_#_SPKRCLUB

edit: for some reason why you click on it via this post, it takes you to overclock.net homepage, if you click the one in my sig - it takes you to this thread.


----------



## eureka

http://blog.audiovideointeriors.com/208great/

Check this out.


----------



## S2kphile

Quote:



Originally Posted by *eureka*


Already? What happened to your A2?


I still have my A2's but I use it for my laptop. The mackies have better bass response then the a2's thats why I got them.


----------



## jarble

thinking of getting a pair of 9.5's just cant decide if 500 is the right price on these


----------



## Zig-Zag

How about Boston BA635s?


----------



## killahd

Uhh, how about Logitech Z-5500's?


----------



## S2kphile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *killahd* 
Uhh, how about Logitech Z-5500's?

Nope sorry gotta read the first post. No speakers made specifically for PC use. Which include Logitechs, Creative, etc etc.

Quote:

we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters.


----------



## noname

I think my next speakers are going to be the Ref 1s, untill something better for the same price used comes along









But for this to happen i will need to also invest in a new amp


----------



## jarble

go ahead and change me from pioneers to diamond 9.5's


----------



## SilkRoad

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


go ahead and change me from pioneers to diamond 9.5's










congrats, cant wait to see some pictures.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SilkRoad*


congrats, cant wait to see some pictures.


thanks hopefully it wont take to long to get from tx to tn


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


I think my next speakers are going to be the Ref 1s, untill something better for the same price used comes along









But for this to happen i will need to also invest in a new amp










I'm torn between upgrading my ref 1's or building a pair of Neo 1's. I've heard the Neo 1's are better than ref's, but then again the ninja master crossovers take the ref 1's to a whole new level...


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


I'm torn between upgrading my ref 1's or building a pair of Neo 1's. I've heard the Neo 1's are better than ref's, but then again the ninja master crossovers take the ref 1's to a whole new level...










You can build them?









How much though?

Oh, and ref 1s with the ninja upgrade... i'd be set for life.


----------



## soloz2

not sure if I'd try 2x or 1x, but configured the way I want would be about $500 for parts plus enclosures and no-rez. The basic build could be done for under $500


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
not sure if I'd try 2x or 1x, but configured the way I want would be about $500 for parts plus enclosures and no-rez. The basic build could be done for under $500

Hey thats not bad. Would you say the basic Neo 1's are equivalent to stock ref 1s?


----------



## Aura

Someone needs to get Strata Mini's. By far the most intriguing set that av123 offers, imo. I saw a pair on Audiogon for like $600 a week or so ago .


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Someone needs to get Strata Mini's. By far the most intriguing set that av123 offers, imo. I saw a pair on Audiogon for like $600 a week or so ago .

Too bad they aren't so mini :/


----------



## Aura

Hell I'm looking at Magnepan's after I get done with school, so for me the Strata's have a pretty reasonable footprint







.


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Hell I'm looking at Magnepan's after I get done with school, so for me the Strata's have a pretty reasonable footprint







.

Haha, those are humongous in size and price


----------



## binormalkilla

Sign me up I suppose








Polk Audio M20s (front) Monitor 30s (side) and CS2 center
TSC AW-8 sub
Denon AVR-588


----------



## .Sup

KRK Rokit


















Wharfedale Modus 1


















Sub I made myself (I'm an Industrial designer







)








The amp powering it-made it so its not integrated, no metal parts inside the sub thus no interferences.


----------



## S2kphile

Those KRK's are pure secsk. How does the KRK10s sub sound? I'm thinking about picking up a set to go with my Mackie MR5s


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2kphile* 
Those KRK's are pure secsk. How does the KRK10s sub sound? I'm thinking about picking up a set to go with my Mackie MR5s

Its pretty good, good response, still not completely burnt-in but has lots of settings and connection options. Good bang for the buck.

Disclaimer warning: I'm having it set at almost minimum volume otherwise the doors would break.- its SOOO powerful.


----------



## S2kphile

I have one question for anyone who can answer. When I turn on my speakers I hear a hissing sound coming from the tweeters when I get really close to it. It sounds like a needle touching vinyl you can could say. Is it suppose to sound like that or is it suppose to be silent? It sounds like harmonic distortion a small amount of it.


----------



## soloz2

you've got noise from coming from down the line. My first action would be to get a filtered power conditioner and see if that helps.

You can get fairly cheap ones on ebay. I have a few OneAC units that I've used for some time. I have two single outlet ones that are perfect for sources and a larger 4 outlet one that can handle more current and is perfect for small speaker amps or headphone amps.

I've got a Monster 5100MKII in the living room with all my HT equipment plugged into it. It has excellent filtering, but does not condition the power. I have fairly decent power where I'm at so no big deal. The filtering is better than the APC unit or the OneAC units I have.

Which gets me to the APC H15 I just picked up a few weeks ago. It is a real power conditioner. The ones mentioned above are really just filters. They filter the power and provide surge suppression. The H15 will correct the voltage if it gets too high or too low coming in from the wall in addition to filtering and surge suppression. I haven't A/B'd the APC with the monster, but it seems to be more on par with the OneAC units for filtering, maybe a bit better, and the Monster is better than the OneAC units.

Bang/buck the APC is a steal since they can be found for $150 shipped from audioholics. I haven't been too impressed with their service, but the price is a good $300 less than list and around $250 less than these typically sell for... all because APC is closing out the silver units and going all black. If you can live with silver they are a steal at the current price. You can also get the H10 for $130 if you would rather. Or, they have the C series starting at $40 and they filter but do not condition. Really, I can't recommend the Monster at the price they typically sell for. I got an even better deal on the Monster than I did on the APC so I have it, but I would not pay $700 for the unit I have. If you're looking for something in that price range I'd probably go for PS Audio. IMO


----------



## S2kphile

+Reps for the awesome info. It seems to be the power plugs. Gah I never notice the noise until I got close to my speakers I would rather have silence then noise. I guess I'm gonna go look around for those power conditioners.

EDIT: It seems the rep button is gone from your post weird =P


----------



## Jimmy2Shoe

I've posted my setup elsewhere, but now that there's a club


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *S2kphile*


+Reps for the awesome info. It seems to be the power plugs. Gah I never notice the noise until I got close to my speakers I would rather have silence then noise. I guess I'm gonna go look around for those power conditioners.

EDIT: It seems the rep button is gone from your post weird =P


ebay is a good place to look for the OneAc units, you can find lots of good stuff at audiogon. But right now I'd probably just buy a new APC unit from audioholics.

http://store.audioholics.com/section...roduct-blowout

I recommend the H series, but understand they are a bit spendy, even at the heavily discounted price.


----------



## noname

Sick custom amp S2K, how does it sound?


----------



## S2kphile

You talking about the STX? If so, then it's better then the stock LM4562 and 2x JRC2114Ds

The LT1364 has better body & definition in the bass region. It's also more controlled & detail with a strong presence in the music.

and

The LME49720 is more transparent with highs giving it more extension in the treble area and the mids sound more smoother, IMHO. I must say the soundstage has improved also, it sounded more wider then stock.

It basically IMO has what I've been looking for. Transparent highs, smooth mids, and clear & present bass. They complement each other very well. 1364 takes care of the low end while the 49720 takes care of the highs/mids and gives it a wider soundstage.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Hiya guys.









I'm looking to ditching my Logitechs and joining you guys but I don't know where to start.


----------



## S2kphile

Budget?


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

I'm planning on buying each component one at a time so total budget isn't an issue. I just don't want to spend a ridiculous amount of money on this.

EDIT: I just finished reading Soloz thread and pretty much decided to go with those bookshelf speakers. What I'm confused about is the interface between the computer and the receiver. Would I need to buy a different sound card or should I find myself a digital receiver?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL*


I'm planning on buying each component one at a time so total budget isn't an issue. I just don't want to spend a ridiculous amount of money on this.

EDIT: I just finished reading Soloz thread and pretty much decided to go with those bookshelf speakers. What I'm confused about is the interface between the computer and the receiver. Would I need to buy a different sound card or should I find myself a digital receiver?


you can get either a mini-RCA and use the analog out of your sound card, or you can get a digital coax to a receiver with digital inputs.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


you can get either a mini-RCA and use the analog out of your sound card, or you can get a digital coax to a receiver with digital inputs.


Thank you for the quick response.









Would running mini to RCA affect sound quality or would it be like running the 1/4 to 1/8 converters for headphone use?

EDIT: I can't rep you anymore.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL*


Thank you for the quick response.









Would running mini to RCA affect sound quality or would it be like running the 1/4 to 1/8 converters for headphone use?

EDIT: I can't rep you anymore.










no, mini-RCA is fine. he audio out from the sound card has a shared ground, so you won't be loosing anything that wasn't there at the output anyway as long as you use a good quality cable.

if you get a good receiver then digital out may sound a bit better, but a low to mid range will probably be about the same as analog, analog may be better. you'll have to listen to both to determine.


----------



## Spart

MEMEMEME!

*Current Setups*

PC:
Sherwood RX-4103 Reciever
Sharp CP-R300 Bookshelf Speakers
HD580's for when I need things quiet in the house.

HT:
RCA RV-9900a Reciever
Pioneer CS-C1000 Speakers
RCA Sub

Crap I know but I'm upgrading pretty soon.


----------



## lolhax

Count me in. I've had my JBL CF-100s for years. Excuse the mess, and the overly mediocre amplifier. I haven't gotten around to replacing my beloved single-chip amp. Hopefully I can do that soon, when funds allow. This setup currently serves double duty between my computer and the HDTV setup.




























Edit: Whoops, forgot to rotate the last two pictures. Hope you guys don't mind







.


----------



## eureka

Those speakers must sound kerazyyyy.


----------



## lolhax

They sounded amazing when I had them connected to my single chip amp.


----------



## phospholipid

Anyone see the Moth Audio Cicada Loudspeakers for sale for 500$ over @ HC? Daaaanngggg


----------



## Aura

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phospholipid*


Anyone see the Moth Audio Cicada Loudspeakers for sale for 500$ over @ HC? Daaaanngggg


Yup. Someone should probably buy them.

And by "someone", I of course mean that *you* should buy them Jon.


----------



## soloz2

yeah, saw them... was going to send Aura a PM, then saw that he posted already.


----------



## Aura

Hehe I should buy them and do surround with Cicadas.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aura*


Yup. Someone should probably buy them.


How well do those sound? Looks like they got only one driver. (I am just confused right now, I thought high end systems are at least two way or more.)


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


How well do those sound? Looks like they got only one driver. (I am just confused right now, I thought high end systems are at least two way or more.)


Some very nice single driver systems do exist - they have a massive advantage over multi-driver systems (the lack of a crossover and thus a lack of issues related to poor balance from one driver to another). That said, they usually can't produce near the same SPL or cover the same range as a true full-range speaker can, but nevertheless I've greatly enjoyed the incredibly natural sound presented from some of the single driver systems I've heard.


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


How well do those sound? Looks like they got only one driver. (I am just confused right now, I thought high end systems are at least two way or more.)


More doesn't necessarily = better


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Hehe I should buy them and do surround with Cicadas.

that would be insane


----------



## Xeroni

How about a setup that includes some computer speakers? I'm slowly replacing my current sound setup. Right now I have a Yamaha RX-V390 hooked up to two Sony's I found in the garage with a z-5500 sub plugged in through the tape out with a old equalizer in between to filter out any frequencies above 120 hz.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


How well do those sound? Looks like they got only one driver. (I am just confused right now, I thought high end systems are at least two way or more.)


in more of a purist view the less in the signal path the better. All speakers with two or more drivers have some sort of crossover. A single driver speaker does not have anything between the driver and the amp.


----------



## S2kphile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
in more of a purist view the less in the signal path the better. All speakers with two or more drivers have some sort of crossover. A single driver speaker does not have anything between the driver and the amp.

I agree with that comment that's why in car audio I always have an active setup over a passive. It's better to control the amp/frequency of the tweeter & mid-woofer.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2kphile* 
I agree with that comment that's why in car audio I always have an active setup over a passive. It's better to control the amp/frequency of the tweeter & mid-woofer.

actually, passive is a bit more pure than active... you've got things backwards.


----------



## S2kphile

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


actually, passive is a bit more pure than active... you've got things backwards.


But the thing is you don't have that much _control_ over the frequency range. May be different in Home Audio but in car audio most people I know use Active speakers over passive. But I wouldn't mind be enlightened.


----------



## jarble

my diamonds should be here tomorrow







I am stoked




























seriously thinking of taking the day off


----------



## noname

This club is growing, i like, i like very much.


----------



## Chipp

Am I a bad person for wanting a Mackie Big Knob? Gah!! Such a nifty device!


----------



## soloz2

anyone interested in a pair of speaker cables? I moved my equipment rack in my office and now my brand new 12' cables aren't long enough. I may just use them in my living room setup, but swapping won't net me longer cables for my office.

12' 10awg sleeved in premium soft nylon black sleeving and termination in LS4 banana plugs using Cardas solder. I've got about $115 into them.

If I swap the cables in my living room are I believe an 8' pair, black techflex sleeving terminated in audioquest spades and bananas (spade on one end, banana on the other) and once again Cardas solder. I've got about $95 into them.

just thought I'd see if anyone was interested. LMK if anyone is interested.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
anyone interested in a pair of speaker cables? I moved my equipment rack in my office and now my brand new 12' cables aren't long enough. I may just use them in my living room setup, but swapping won't net me longer cables for my office.

12' 10awg sleeved in premium soft nylon black sleeving and termination in LS4 banana plugs using Cardas solder. I've got about $115 into them.

If I swap the cables in my living room are I believe an 8' pair, black techflex sleeving terminated in audioquest spades and bananas (spade on one end, banana on the other) and once again Cardas solder. I've got about $95 into them.

just thought I'd see if anyone was interested. LMK if anyone is interested.

possibly


----------



## grossebeaver

Current HTPC/Movie/Console Gaming setup:
Rotel RSX-1058 (Receiver)
B&W CM9 (L/R Stereo)
B&W CM5 (L/R Rear)
B&W CM Centre (Center)
Sunfire TS-EQ 10 (Sub)

Currently moving stuff around and got a new entertainment center to mount the TV on, hopefully it will be pic worthy after this weekend.


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
anyone interested in a pair of speaker cables? I moved my equipment rack in my office and now my brand new 12' cables aren't long enough. I may just use them in my living room setup, but swapping won't net me longer cables for my office.

12' 10awg sleeved in premium soft nylon black sleeving and termination in LS4 banana plugs using Cardas solder. I've got about $115 into them.

If I swap the cables in my living room are I believe an 8' pair, black techflex sleeving terminated in audioquest spades and bananas (spade on one end, banana on the other) and once again Cardas solder. I've got about $95 into them.

just thought I'd see if anyone was interested. LMK if anyone is interested.

Sound diff compared to monoprice cables?


----------



## corky dorkelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grossebeaver* 
Current HTPC/Movie/Console Gaming setup:
Rotel RSX-1058 (Receiver)
B&W CM9 (L/R Stereo)
B&W CM5 (L/R Rear)
B&W CM Centre (Center)
Sunfire TS-EQ 10 (Sub)

Currently moving stuff around and got a new entertainment center to mount the TV on, hopefully it will be pic worthy after this weekend.

Nice setup. Those sunfires are some serious woofers. I am envious of your SPL


----------



## jarble

9.5's are here







Ill try and put some pics up but if you don't see me for a few days you will know where I am


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
Sound diff compared to monoprice cables?

don't you know me well enough to know the answer to that?


----------



## jarble

pics as promised











now I have a date with the dark side of the moon


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


pics as promised


Oh my, and I thought my 9.1's were sexy!!

Nice choice on the colour, the black ash is very nice.

Enjoy the Floyd!


----------



## grossebeaver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *corky dorkelson* 
Nice setup. Those sunfires are some serious woofers. I am envious of your SPL









It is an awesome sub, really tight response (at all volumes), small footprint, and great bass extension. I was originally looking at the B&W ASW 10CM, tried the sunfire out just for kicks and just fell in love with the way it filled out the bottom.


----------



## corky dorkelson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grossebeaver*


It is an awesome sub, really tight response (at all volumes), small footprint, and great bass extension. I was originally looking at the B&W ASW 10CM, tried the sunfire out just for kicks and just fell in love with the way it filled out the bottom.


Yeah, for me it was "You had me at 2,700 watts RMS"









I have had the opportunity to hear that Sunfire a few times and it always impressed me. Someday I will have one.

I really like the tone of my 10" but it lacks the impact I need for my more aggressive days with the volume control.


----------



## noname

hmm lookin good.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
don't you know me well enough to know the answer to that?










Lol... Don't you know me well enough not to answer that?


----------



## jarble

1 day in on the 9.5's and I have only had one draw back I need more power







my system would not run them for crap so I took them down stairs and put them on my dads nad and after 2hrs of listening the nad cut off you could fry a egg on that thing







the whole 6oms thing is killing me. these thing's excel with any thing you toss at them except screamo







they seam to like jazz and vinyls the best









Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Oh my, and I thought my 9.1's were sexy!!

Nice choice on the colour, the black ash is very nice.

Enjoy the Floyd!

thanks


----------



## Chipp

Pardon me if you've already posted this, but what are you driving the 9.5s with?


----------



## The_Rocker

Does no-one here use Monitor Audio?

I am about to get myself a pair of BR2's and possibly a BRW10 sub to go with it.

Just wondered if anyone had an opinion or experience with these?


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Pardon me if you've already posted this, but what are you driving the 9.5s with?










not enough







my dads NAD preamp its only got about 40watts of power but until now we really did not need any more a good amp is next on my list of things to get


----------



## soloz2

since I'm listening to one of my speaker rigs I suppose this belongs here









Just posted this in the official Oppo BDP-83 EAP owners thread on AVS:

Quote:



FedEx just stopped by.

First impressions:
-build quality: wow, simply head and shoulders above the other Oppo players I have. I pulled my 980H off the shelf and replaced it with the BDP-83 and just no comparison here. I was never too impressed with the previous build quality of Oppo players. The 980 was a step up from the 971, but still had room for improvement. I think Oppo got it right this time, especially for a $500 EAP price point.
-setup was simpler than I remember on previous gen Oppo players and more in-depth than the other HD or Blue players I've used, while maintaining a simple elegance.
-The bag is a nice touch.
-The remote is everything it should be. Almost makes me want to keep it handy instead of my Harmony
-I haven't used the included disc, but once again a nice touch.
-I still wish Oppo double-boxed their players, but at the same time they do use boxes of good quality so it isn't absolutely necessary...

I know most people probably went straight to checking out video performance so I may be the odd man out here, but the first disc that went into my Oppo was (and it's still in there!) Bart Millard's Hymned No. 1. I highly recommend this disc to everyone and anyone. A great recording regardless of if you like gospel music or not. I'm playing the DVD side (dual disc) and sounds fantastic.

I first played via HDMI and it sounded good. Maybe slightly better than my 980 playing the same disc (it was playing earlier this morning) but if there was a difference it was subtle and I can't be sure. Besides there shouldn't be much of a difference when using the player as a transport. Then I switched over to the analog output and that's where it's stayed. Right out of the box it sounds great. smooth and extended with sweet highs and mids. lows are deep and tuneful. My speakers are actually digging deeper than usual. I'm very impressed especially since this player hasn't burned in at all yet. I wasn't expecting it to be this good. I'll have to try to do an A/B between my dedicated CDP from my office and the Oppo. Maybe next weekend I'll put the Oppo in my office for a nice listening session with some cans.

Gear being used right now:
Source: Oppo BDP-83
Receiver: Marantz SR7001
Speakers: av123 ELT525T
Associated gear:
Monster HTS5100 (both the Oppo and receiver are plugged into it)
Oppo HDMI switch
Cables:
HDMI is an F2 (I believe) series from BJC
I made the power cables, analog interconnects and speaker cables.
soloz2 is online now Report Post Edit/Delete Message


----------



## silent_nightr34

Can I be a member?? I have KRK Rp5's and a RP10 sub woofer connected to a M-audio Firewire Solo sound card.. I had the older versions of the Logitec X-540's and I used to think they sounded good.. I bought the RP5's and I was blown away by the clarity and loudness. The sub made it even better... After about a month of listening to it I tried the logistics again and was amazed at what I was missing.. They sounded HORRIBLE. Pretty much everything about it was terrible, the bass from the sub being the worse by droning out everything.. Well there goes my mini-rant against Logitec speakers..


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


since I'm listening to one of my speaker rigs I suppose this belongs here









Just posted this in the official Oppo BDP-83 EAP owners thread on AVS:


Sweet!!! That looks mad hoTT


----------



## soloz2

currently rockin a pair of RS1's, perfect match for my Max!







(that's me right now)


----------



## Hoodcom

I just got my Cerwin-Vega! AT-8 speakers in a couple of days ago. They are in very very great condition, and they sound pretty well too! I am happy with these speakers. They may be 21 years old, but they sound awesome. (To me and my brother anyways.)


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hoodcom* 
I just got my Cerwin-Vega! AT-8 speakers in a couple of days ago. They are in very very great condition, and they sound pretty well too! I am happy with these speakers. They may be 21 years old, but they sound awesome. (To me and my brother anyways.)









Should be decent party speakers.







Most CV designs aren't terribly accurate, but they can really crank!


----------



## S2kphile

New Pictures of My Speaker Setup


----------



## Chipp

Can I please have your address? I want to, eh, borrow with no intention of returning a pair of your Mackies.


----------



## corky dorkelson

nice mack attack!


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *S2kphile*


New Pictures of My Speaker Setup


Speakers Anonymous needed here?









Why do you prefer Active over Passive?


----------



## S2kphile

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Can I please have your address? I want to, eh, borrow with no intention of returning a pair of your Mackies.











You got PM







jk jk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *corky dorkelson*


nice mack attack!


Nice i'm gonna use that as a quote

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Speakers Anonymous needed here?









Why do you prefer Active over Passive?


<---Audiophile I want to get a pair of Adam A7s =)

I prefer active over passive because it's less clunky around my desktop plus it's a lot cheaper to buy active over passive, I can haul it anywhere without worry about an amp. Plus active sounds good as passive speakers.

Now to test some tracks & games. Dead Space tonight on high volume here I come woot =)


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *S2kphile*


I prefer active over passive because it's less clunky around my desktop


Not when you have 3 pairs!


----------



## S2kphile

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Not when you have 3 pairs!









You are right







BTW, I love your Diamonds they look like a sick setup







I wonder how they sound.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *S2kphile* 
You are right







BTW, I love your Diamonds they look like a sick setup







I wonder how they sound.

Thanks, they sound great, I'd like a teeny more bass for when listening from my bed, up close when I'm at the desk there is just enough. Today I toe'd them in slightly and its improved the sound a bit when listening at the desk. The sweetspot is right in the middle of my bed now, which is a bit awkward


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Thanks, they sound great, I'd like a teeny more bass for when listening from my bed, up close when I'm at the desk there is just enough. Today I toe'd them in slightly and its improved the sound a bit when listening at the desk. The sweetspot is right in the middle of my bed now, which is a bit awkward










odd I found the 9.5's to have tons of bass I was shocked that that size driver could shake the house with less than 30watts

and lol at the sweet spot in the center of your bed when I set myn up it was right behind the couch so I moved the couch rather than move the speakers









edit read your post wrong thought we were talking about 9.5's not 9.1's my bad


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


odd I found the 9.5's to have tons of bass I was shocked that that size driver could shake the house with less than 20watts

and lol at the sweet spot in the center of your bed when I set myn up it was right behind the couch so I moved the couch rather than move the speakers










Yours have 2 bass drivers and a much larger cabinet, mine are only one mid-bass driver and a much smaller cabinet.

These are mine;


----------



## The_Rocker

Guys, as I have recently got into audio BIG TIME







I have decided to remake the speaker club banner.

Tell me if you all like it.

Cheers


----------



## corky dorkelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Guys, as I have recently got into audio BIG TIME







I have decided to remake the speaker club banner.

Tell me if you all like it.

Cheers










I like your banner better, because in the original, the speaker has a "whizzer" cone, and not a more modern dustcap.


----------



## noname

Staff already voted on the banner, but what ever.


----------



## Aura

Sorry Rocker, but we did hold a banner entry/vote the first 2 weeks the club was open. In due time, as more members get involved, we can hold another banner vote with new entrants and more participation.


----------



## The_Rocker

Fair enough.


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*









Fair enough.


Don't give up on the audio part though


----------



## S2kphile

Yes don't give up...we need more audiophiles in this club who sharing the interests of computers and audio =)


----------



## The_Rocker

Oh im not giving up on the sound.









I want another banner vote!

Only a couple of weeks now lads until I buy the speakers and AMP.

I found a pic of the 640A and BR2's here:



















Only difference is, I plan to get the speakers in Black oak Vinyl.


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Oh im not giving up on the sound.









I want another banner vote!

Only a couple of weeks now lads until I buy the speakers and AMP.

I found a pic of the 640A and BR2's here:



















Only difference is, I plan to get the speakers in Black oak Vinyl.

Those look nice, but i would recommend getting a pair of these:
http://www.zzounds.com/item--AURMOPAD

They actually help improve the sound.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


They actually help improve the sound.


Thats not his rig, he's already said he's getting stands :]


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Thats not his rig, he's already said he's getting stands :]


Ah, i didn't know he was getting stands.


----------



## soloz2

looks like my replacement sub amp from av123 will be delivered today. Once I get a couple parts replaced (one amp and one transformer) I'll have two working subs









Last time I had them both, I had some serious output below 20Hz in my room... like 90+dB at 18-21Hz


----------



## slngsht

I had a question about foam surround replacement. I have a Cerwin Vega V12-S powered sub that a mouse decided to crawl into and chew a massive hole in the surround on it, and I need it replaced now. Where is the best place to go to get one of these kits?

Edit for pic:


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *slngsht*


I had a question about foam surround replacement. I have a Cerwin Vega V12-S powered sub that a mouse decided to crawl into and chew a massive hole in the surround on it, and I need it replaced now. Where is the best place to go to get one of these kits?


http://speakerex.com/refoam_kits.html

These guys are a reputable store and carry red surrounds for CV refoams.


----------



## Mr Pink57

Speakers: JBL S38II x2 | JBL S-CENTERII | JBL PB12
Reciever: Yamaha HTR-5760








They're landscape now, later today after my meeting I will snap some pics.

pink


----------



## slngsht

Thanks for the suggestion Chipp. +rep if I could. I also edited my original post to add a pic of it.


----------



## The_Rocker

Yeah I will be getting some stands for the Speakers.

Quick question, how do I connect a sub to an amp, in particular the Cambridge Audio 640A?


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


http://speakerex.com/refoam_kits.html

These guys are a reputable store and carry red surrounds for CV refoams.


I must thank you also, for providing a link to that. (Even though I haven't asked for anything like that.) But it's got EVERYTHING I am needing!









JL Audio and Rockford Fosgate refoam kits, I'm so happy, now I can order what I need now.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Yeah I will be getting some stands for the Speakers.

Quick question, how do I connect a sub to an amp, in particular the Cambridge Audio 640A?

That'll depend more on the sub than the amp. Personally, I'd use speaker-level inputs since most subwoofers offer them. You could also use the pre-out on the amp if the sub accepts stereo phono plugs.


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


That'll depend more on the sub than the amp. Personally, I'd use speaker-level inputs since most subwoofers offer them. You could also use the pre-out on the amp if the sub accepts stereo phono plugs.


Well heres the sub I am considering:

http://www.hifibitz.co.uk/product.asp?id=5829

I beleive it has Phono in.

Here is the amp:

http://www.froogle.richersounds.com/...MB-640A-V2-BLK


----------



## noname

That pic is too small, but i would say you would connect via a digital coax cable since the sub is a "Class- D Digital amplifier"


----------



## Jimmy2Shoe

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Well heres the sub I am considering:

http://www.hifibitz.co.uk/product.asp?id=5829

I beleive it has Phono in.

Here is the amp:

http://www.froogle.richersounds.com/...MB-640A-V2-BLK



I suspect you'll be able to use the pre-outs on the amp and feed RCA to the sub.


----------



## The_Rocker

Cool, I did some research and yes I can use the Pre output on the amp and then I beleive run digital COAX to the sub.

Cheers guys, cant wait to start buying this stuff


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


I must thank you also, for providing a link to that. (Even though I haven't asked for anything like that.) But it's got EVERYTHING I am needing!









JL Audio and Rockford Fosgate refoam kits, I'm so happy, now I can order what I need now.










To add with that... I am gonna need that site to get a kit to repair my Cerwin-Vega! Sat-6W subwoofer... the foam surround on it is just extremely brittle. It is from '89, so, it's the same age as I am. lol


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


To add with that... I am gonna need that site to get a kit to repair my Cerwin-Vega! Sat-6W subwoofer... the foam surround on it is just extremely brittle. It is from '89, so, it's the same age as I am. lol


woooo 1989!

Whats the date friend?

Nov 30th here.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


woooo 1989!

Whats the date friend?

Nov 30th here.



Aug 09 1989 is on the magnet.

I have another Cerwin Vega sub which is from 1996. I forgot the month.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


That pic is too small, but i would say you would connect via a digital coax cable since the sub is a "Class- D Digital amplifier"


Thats not quite how it works. Amplifier classes have nothing to do with whether or not the sub will accept a raw bitstream. See here.

Class D is just a very power efficient amplifier type where the circuit is either completely on or completely off. An example you might be familiar with is Tripath based chipamps, such as the SI T-Amp or Gainclones.


----------



## Hoodcom

Are there any good external amps? Nothing super high power, but something that puts out at least 50 - 80watts RMS each channel? I'm looking for a nice little 2-channel amp to add onto my home theater system.


----------



## Chipp

What speakers are you driving with that? I'd guess you don't even need that much power, which really would open up your options.


----------



## Hoodcom

For my Cerwin-Vega! Sat-6S, which are rated at 100 watt at 8 ohms. The Sat-6S are being used as additional highs to my fronts, which are sitting on top of my VE-15s, which are 400watt speakers.

I wanted to run them on the front, but on separate amplifiers so I won't put too much load on the front channels on my receiver, which puts out 110 watts per channel.

Do you think I should get a bigger amp for the VE-15s and just leave the SAT-6S on the receiver's amp?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hoodcom* 
For my Cerwin-Vega! Sat-6S, which are rated at 100 watt at 8 ohms. The Sat-6S are being used as additional highs to my fronts, which are sitting on top of my VE-15s, which are 400watt speakers.

I wanted to run them on the front, but on separate amplifiers so I won't put too much load on the front channels on my receiver, which puts out 110 watts per channel.

Do you think I should get a bigger amp for the VE-15s and just leave the SAT-6S on the receiver's amp?

Personally, I would. I'd expect you'll get a larger gain from feeding more/cleaner power into the VE-15s.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Personally, I would. I'd expect you'll get a larger gain from feeding more/cleaner power into the VE-15s.

True, because the receiver has plenty of amp power for all my other speakers.

So, then where can I find a good 250 - 350 watt amp at then? One with RCA connectors. I just want one that works well, possibly for no more than $300 ?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hoodcom* 
True, because the receiver has plenty of amp power for all my other speakers.

So, then where can I find a good 250 - 350 watt amp at then? One with RCA connectors. I just want one that works well, possibly for no more than $300 ?

Behringer A500?

Might even grab two and run them bridged mono if you were really ambitious. They are sort of a cult classic in the home theater scene - cheap, gobs of clean power as a monoblock, and totally fanless (plus sporting RCA inputs). I've worked with several on tour, and they can take a beating too.


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Thats not quite how it works. Amplifier classes have nothing to do with whether or not the sub will accept a raw bitstream. See here.

Class D is just a very power efficient amplifier type where the circuit is either completely on or completely off. An example you might be familiar with is Tripath based chipamps, such as the SI T-Amp or Gainclones.

Haha, thanks- i was taking a shot in the dark.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


True, because the receiver has plenty of amp power for all my other speakers.

So, then where can I find a good 250 - 350 watt amp at then? One with RCA connectors. I just want one that works well, possibly for no more than $300 ?


check out the emotiva upa2

I just received two new sub amps from av123! Some nice 500w digital amps to make my subs sing!!!


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Behringer A500?

Might even grab two and run them bridged mono if you were really ambitious. They are sort of a cult classic in the home theater scene - cheap, gobs of clean power as a monoblock, and totally fanless (plus sporting RCA inputs). I've worked with several on tour, and they can take a beating too.


160 watts x 2 @ 8 ohms RMS... yeah, that's pretty nice upgrade, RMS wise, I probably will go with that amp.

As for running them as monoblocks... I don't think I wanna... 500 watts RMS at 8 ohms bridged.... my VE-15's are rated 400watts peak... so I'd say their RMS power handling would be half that.

So I'd say one Behringer A500 amp is enough for them, right?

Oh wait a minute...

*reads manual.*

The 110 watts per channel, at 8ohms on my receiver, is continuous power output, at 0.09% total harmonic distortion.

150 watts per channel at 6 ohms, with 1% total harmonic distortion.

I have two pairs of 6 ohm speakers. Umm, how big of difference is 0.09% from 1% on total harmonic distortion? (I have no clue on what this part means.)


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


160 watts x 2 @ 8 ohms RMS... yeah, that's pretty nice upgrade, RMS wise, I probably will go with that amp.

As for running them as monoblocks... I don't think I wanna... 500 watts RMS at 8 ohms bridged.... my VE-15's are rated 400watts peak... so I'd say their RMS power handling would be half that.

So I'd say one Behringer A500 amp is enough for them, right?

Oh wait a minute...

*reads manual.*

The 110 watts per channel, at 8ohms on my receiver, is continuous power output, at 0.09% total harmonic distortion.

150 watts per channel at 6 ohms, with 1% total harmonic distortion.

I have two pairs of 6 ohm speakers. Umm, how big of difference is 0.09% from 1% on total harmonic distortion? (I have no clue on what this part means.)


From an electrical standpoint, that is pretty significant. Likely to be something you hear? Almost definitely not. However, THD is generally a guide as to how the amplifier is rated - if they rate at a higher THD, they usually can make a weaker amp look like it is more powerful. A true high quality amplifier is one that can maintain reasonable THD when driving difficult loads.

I would not worry about overpowering the speakers - the RMS rating is the max the amp can put out if the signal it is being presented calls for it. In short, you would need a perfect line-level input of pink noise with the amp volume maxed to actually get the full power rating out to the speakers.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


check out the emotiva upa2


I'll check that out.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


From an electrical standpoint, that is pretty significant. Likely to be something you hear? Almost definitely not. However, THD is generally a guide as to how the amplifier is rated - if they rate at a higher THD, they usually can make a weaker amp look like it is more powerful. A true high quality amplifier is one that can maintain reasonable THD when driving difficult loads.

I would not worry about overpowering the speakers - the RMS rating is the max the amp can put out if the signal it is being presented calls for it. In short, you would need a perfect line-level input of pink noise with the amp volume maxed to actually get the full power rating out to the speakers.


Okay, I just was not sure about THD, but I think I understand it more now.

If I was to connect my AT-8 to my HT-10D subwoofer (Passive sub), the meter shows it as 2.2ohms... this would be too dangerous to my receiver's amp, right?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


I'll check that out.









Okay, I just was not sure about THD, but I think I understand it more now.

If I was to connect my AT-8 to my HT-10D subwoofer (Passive sub), the meter shows it as 2.2ohms... this would be too dangerous to my receiver's amp, right?


Most definitly. Here is an excelent article on the subject, if you'd like to read up a little as to why.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=60386


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Most definitly. Here is an excelent article on the subject, if you'd like to read up a little as to why.

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=60386


... Well, that is a good read! Thanks for linking the article.









Yeah, I guess if I am to want to hook my passive subs up to my rear channels.... I'd have to get an external amp for them. Because I totally do not want to damage my receiver's amp. Lowest ohms I can go is 6ohms.

Currently I only have my four front speakers and Center speaker hooked up... my SAT-6S speakers are hooked up to Rear Back/Zone 2/Speaker B/Bi-amp outputs while the VE-15s are on the main front channels. So I know, already, that it's currently wired up safely.


----------



## The Rider

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Cool, I did some research and yes I can use the Pre output on the amp and then I beleive run digital COAX to the sub.

No coax required.

See page 7 of the sub's manual.

http://www.monitoraudiousa.com/asset...ev4_010806.pdf


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The Rider* 
No coax required.

See page 7 of the sub's manual.

http://www.monitoraudiousa.com/asset...ev4_010806.pdf

Ah, RCA. Thats perfect then because the 640A has the stereo pre out.


----------



## Hoodcom

Alright, amp question again, mainly on two amplifiers here.

One Chipp had told me about: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=248-749

One Soloz has told me about: http://www.emotiva.com/upa2.shtm

Okay, Behringer A500 verses Emotiva UPA2.

From what I see, the Behringer A500 is $100 less than the Emotiva and has a little bit more power.

As for the Emotiva UPA2, it looks better (In my opinion), the level control is in the back of the unit, not the front (Which makes it nice to keep the volume from being easily tampered with. Also appears to have lower THD than the Behringer A500.

So, what I'd like to know, is if the EMotiva UPA2 amp is worth $100 more, or am I better off with the Behringer? Both amps seem great to me, but I'm still learning about all this.

Personally I like the Emotiva UPA2 a little better.


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hoodcom* 
Alright, amp question again, mainly on two amplifiers here.

One Chipp had told me about: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=248-749

One Soloz has told me about: http://www.emotiva.com/upa2.shtm

Okay, Behringer A500 verses Emotiva UPA2.

From what I see, the Behringer A500 is $100 less than the Emotiva and has a little bit more power.

As for the Emotiva UPA2, it looks better (In my opinion), the level control is in the back of the unit, not the front (Which makes it nice to keep the volume from being easily tampered with. Also appears to have lower THD than the Behringer A500.

So, what I'd like to know, is if the EMotiva UPA2 amp is worth $100 more, or am I better off with the Behringer? Both amps seem great to me, but I'm still learning about all this.

Personally I like the Emotiva UPA2 a little better.

Same, i would go for the emotiva. Mostly because of looks lol!
No but seriously, not only does the emotiva look good, its good for speakers that require more power. RIght now im good with a TCA gizmo and Onix Reference 0.5s, but once i upgrade to some Neo's, i'll be needing a more powerful amp. This one would be perfect.


----------



## Hoodcom

Ooh! The UPA7 seems extremely nice!

http://emotiva.com/upa7.shtm

8 ohm rating:

• 125 watts RMS/channel into 8 ohms, all channels driven

• 7 channels - 8 ohm = 125 watts per channel

• 6 channels - 8 ohm = 135 watts per channel

• 5 channels - 8 ohm = 140 watts per channel

• 4 channels - 8 ohm = 150 watts per channel

• 3 channel - 8 ohm = 160 watts per channel

• 2 channel - 8 ohm = 170 watts per channel

• 1 channel - 8 ohm = 180 watts per channel

4 ohm rating:

• 7 channels - 4 ohm = 185 watts per channel

• 6 channels - 4 ohm = 200 watts per channel

• 5 channels - 4 ohm = 225 watts per channel

• 4 channels - 4 ohm = 235 watts per channel

• 3 channel - 4 ohm = 260 watts per channel

• 2 channel - 4 ohm = 280 watts per channel

• 1 channel - 4 ohm = 300 watts per channel

I think with that amp, my speakers will get a lot more power... I may go after that amp.









Especially with using 6 or 5 channels on it only...

With the volt meter, it reads all my speakers as 4 ohms.


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hoodcom* 
Ooh! The UPA7 seems extremely nice!

http://emotiva.com/upa7.shtm

8 ohm rating:

• 125 watts RMS/channel into 8 ohms, all channels driven

• 7 channels - 8 ohm = 125 watts per channel

• 6 channels - 8 ohm = 135 watts per channel

• 5 channels - 8 ohm = 140 watts per channel

• 4 channels - 8 ohm = 150 watts per channel

• 3 channel - 8 ohm = 160 watts per channel

• 2 channel - 8 ohm = 170 watts per channel

• 1 channel - 8 ohm = 180 watts per channel

4 ohm rating:

• 7 channels - 4 ohm = 185 watts per channel

• 6 channels - 4 ohm = 200 watts per channel

• 5 channels - 4 ohm = 225 watts per channel

• 4 channels - 4 ohm = 235 watts per channel

• 3 channel - 4 ohm = 260 watts per channel

• 2 channel - 4 ohm = 280 watts per channel

• 1 channel - 4 ohm = 300 watts per channel

I think with that amp, my speakers will get a lot more power... I may go after that amp.









Especially with using 6 or 5 channels on it only...

With the volt meter, it reads all my speakers as 4 ohms.

Nice. Expensive though.


----------



## Hoodcom

Yeah, may be so, but cheaper than buying many UPA2s to equal that...

I think I SHOULD get the UPA7, because my speakers may say "compatible with 8ohm or lower receivers)... the volt meter shows that each of them are 3.5 - 4.1 ohms... and my Pioneer Elite is only rated for 8 ohms... well, 6 ohms, but they recommend 8...

After reading the article Chipp linked me to, I think it is worth spending money on that amp for two reasons...

1.) To get more power
2.) To protect my $650 Pioneer Elite from getting damaged

I always wanted an external amp, and I think I've finally got enough reasons to get one.









*EDIT*

Wow! 71 pounds. I didn't know amps could weigh that much. lol


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


Yeah, may be so, but cheaper than buying many UPA2s to equal that...

I think I SHOULD get the UPA7, because my speakers may say "compatible with 8ohm or lower receivers)... the volt meter shows that each of them are 3.5 - 4.1 ohms... and my Pioneer Elite is only rated for 8 ohms... well, 6 ohms, but they recommend 8...

After reading the article Chipp linked me to, I think it is worth spending money on that amp for two reasons...

1.) To get more power
2.) To protect my $650 Pioneer Elite from getting damaged

I always wanted an external amp, and I think I've finally got enough reasons to get one.









*EDIT*

Wow! 71 pounds. I didn't know amps could weigh that much. lol


In that case, yes it would be lol.

Yo, that is heavy! must be the enclosure or something?!


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


In that case, yes it would be lol.

Yo, that is heavy! must be the enclosure or something?!


Probably, but without having seen the inside of one I'd guess it is predominantly the power transformers.


----------



## rush340

What do you guys suggest in the way of powered bookshelf speakers, under $350 (for the pair), and will sound good on the low end without a subwoofer? I'd rather not get a bunch of speakers that push the limit at $350, but rather some suggestions at various prices under 350. I don't have the money yet, but I figured I would start researching early, and I don't plan on going over $350. I haven't looked much yet, but so far the Polk TSi series has caught my eye.

Also, would I be making the right choice in going with active for a budget system?

My $50 hissy Logitech garbage with it's mudwoofer is really bugging me.


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rush340*


What do you guys suggest in the way of powered bookshelf speakers, under $350 (for the pair), and will sound good on the low end without a subwoofer? I'd rather not get a bunch of speakers that push the limit at $350, but rather some suggestions at various prices under 350. I don't have the money yet, but I figured I would start researching early, and I don't plan on going over $350. I haven't looked much yet, but so far the Polk TSi series has caught my eye.

Also, would I be making the right choice in going with active for a budget system?

My $50 hissy Logitech garbage with it's mudwoofer is really bugging me.


I'll make this for everyone else:










*"Sale on ELT525M Mini Monitor with a Gizmo"

*
Quote:



What makes Santa real happy every day is listening to his KILLER desktop audio system. Santa cannot easily open the Kimono all the time because he is SO happy about this system he is listening to&#8230;

Santa went to Mr. Craig Chase - head honcho at Tweek City Audio and he begged him to allow for this one package (50 systems only) deal&#8230; BC said YES&#8230; (thank you Craig)&#8230;

*OK - here's what we've done&#8230; We take one Gizmo and mod the pre-amp section so that the sub out tracks the volume controller now&#8230;

We add to that&#8230; One pair of our ELT525M's (Rosewood or Cherry)&#8230;

We couple that to a set of 8-ft Ultralink Speaker Cables (these are the Matrix 2's --- complete with banana's)*

We are going to offer 50 of these systems at $299 for EVERYTHING&#8230; (Gizmo will ship after the mod is done - about 3 weeks - the rest is in stcok and ready to go)...

This is Santa's "love child"&#8230; I almost never turn my two systems off&#8230;

*So - $299 for the entire package (+ freight)&#8230; *

I love this system - and Santa will have a nice surprise in early '09 for those interested in a matching sub&#8230;

Gizmo Link here...

http://tweakcityaudio.com/index.php?...emart&Itemid=1

Go Folks Go&#8230; this is The One!

Thanks&#8230;

ss

UL's Matrix 2 - 14 gauge speaker cables...


You get:

ELT525Ms
UL's Matrix 2 14 awg speaker cable
MODDED! TCA Gizmo
ALL FOR 300 DOLLARS - NORMALLY THESE ARE 300 WITHOUT CABLES/AMP










[source]

Click source for the link to buy it.

These, are great speakers. I currently own reference 0.5s, these are basically the newer versions of these speakers (give or take a few touches).

I am not advertising, i am just putting it out there for all to see since i have seen the same question numerous amounts of time.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


In that case, yes it would be lol.

Yo, that is heavy! must be the enclosure or something?!






























I'd say partially the enclosure, and more of the electrical goodies inside.









My bedroom is on a 20amp breaker... and the max load on that amp is 14 amps... my powered sub takes 2 amps, my Pioneer elite takes 4amps... I don't know how much my TV takes, but I sure hope I won't blow the breaker from this.


----------



## Chipp

Key words there are max load - under real world conditions, I highly doubt you'll make it never the danger zone in that regard.

I (admittedly pretty dumbly) have run two Mackie 1232zs off a single 20amp breaker before and by the grace of whatever deity you choose to believe in I didnt blow it.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*





























I'd say partially the enclosure, and more of the electrical goodies inside.









My bedroom is on a 20amp breaker... and the max load on that amp is 14 amps... my powered sub takes 2 amps, my Pioneer elite takes 4amps... I don't know how much my TV takes, but I sure hope I won't blow the breaker from this.










na when you blow a breaker you know you have it up loud enough









btw great looking system I am thinking of getting the ups 2 to see what these diamonds can do







(of course it would help if I ever got paid on time







)


----------



## noname

Would anyone say for Onix Reference 0.5s, the ups 2 is better than the TCA Gizmo? Obviously for getting really loud, but im not sure if i should invest.

edit: looks like the emotiva has two inputs?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
Would anyone say for Onix Reference 0.5s, the ups 2 is better than the TCA Gizmo? Obviously for getting really loud, but im not sure if i should invest.

edit: looks like the emotiva has two inputs?

it looks that way in the pics but not in the manual







look at page 12


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Key words there are max load - under real world conditions, I highly doubt you'll make it never the danger zone in that regard.

I (admittedly pretty dumbly) have run two Mackie 1232zs off a single 20amp breaker before and by the grace of whatever deity you choose to believe in I didnt blow it.

That makes me feel better, because I just wanted to be safe with this...

Though, I've seen parts express have power conditioners, what do they do, specifically?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
na when you blow a breaker you know you have it up loud enough









I admit, I was worried at first, but I eventually began to think that I wouldn't have to worry since I wouldn't be running all this at max volume.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
Would anyone say for Onix Reference 0.5s, the ups 2 is better than the TCA Gizmo? Obviously for getting really loud, but im not sure if i should invest.

edit: looks like the emotiva has two inputs?

7 inputs









And...

Here is a picture of my poor poor 10inch cerwin vega:









Already got a refoam kit ordered for it from speakerex...

My goodness, that foam on that sub is weaker than toilet paper. lol It was out of my SAT-6W unit.

I have heard that you can hook speakers up to 1.5 volt batteries, which makes the cone centered for you when you refoam it, is this true? I don't really want to have to remove the dust cap, but if I have to, I will.

Really, I wouldn't mind going into speaker repair. (This would be my very first refoam. I want to do it right and well.)


----------



## Christodagr8

do my G51's make it into the club ?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
Would anyone say for Onix Reference 0.5s, the ups 2 is better than the TCA Gizmo? Obviously for getting really loud, but im not sure if i should invest.

edit: looks like the emotiva has two inputs?

you would need a preamp for volume control and source selection.


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christodagr8* 
do my G51's make it into the club ?


Quote:


Originally Posted by *OP*
_we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters._


No


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
you would need a preamp for volume control and source selection.

I see, so much for a 200 dollars upgrade- I'd rather just do the ninja mod.

Thanks solo

I love the Cerwin Vega logo btw.


----------



## Dennisjr13

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Christodagr8* 
do my G51's make it into the club ?

Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's don't, so no.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
I love the Cerwin Vega logo btw.

Same. I'm a little sad that my SAT-6S satellites don't have the logo on their dustcap, same for my CLS-6C Center channel speaker.









To be honest, I am kind of surprised to see the SAT-6W have two 4" ports on it. I have a HT-10D with one 4" port... both passive subwoofer units have 10" drivers. I kind of expected the SAT-6W to be a 12". Doesn't matter, I'd like to hear it once I get the driver repaired.


----------



## Aura

You guys and your 250-300wpc solid state amps.

There's something endearing about running my Cicadas with a pair of output 2A3's capable of a whopping 3wpc max







.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
You guys and your 250-300wpc solid state amps.

There's something endearing about running my Cicadas with a pair of output 2A3's capable of a whopping 3wpc max







.

How loud can that get? I'm curious.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hoodcom* 
How loud can that get? I'm curious.

lets say his speakers are rated at 93dB then at 1m away they can get to 93dB with 1 watt. double that distance and they'll need 2w... so realistically that's about as loud as the speakers will play when listening close. From the pictures I've seen they're in a small room so that's quite reasonable.


----------



## beanbagofdoom

DO my Audioengine A2's Count?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *beanbagofdoom* 
DO my Audioengine A2's Count?









I suppose


----------



## grossebeaver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


To be honest, I am kind of surprised to see the SAT-6W have two 4" ports on it. I have a HT-10D with one 4" port... both passive subwoofer units have 10" drivers. I kind of expected the SAT-6W to be a 12". Doesn't matter, I'd like to hear it once I get the driver repaired.










One option may be to experiment with some plugs for those ports, especially since you have a sub to fill in the low end. It could tighten up the bass response a bit if that's the sound you're looking for.


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


I suppose



I think they do.


----------



## S2kphile

They should since mine was counted =)


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


lets say his speakers are rated at 93dB then at 1m away they can get to 93dB with 1 watt. double that distance and they'll need 2w... so realistically that's about as loud as the speakers will play when listening close. From the pictures I've seen they're in a small room so that's quite reasonable.


For my VE-15s:

Sensitivity (1w/1m): 95 dB

So, at 1m away, basically they will get to 95dB at 1 watt?

So, then this basically measures how loud speakers can get, at certain wattage and distances? (I am just trying to learn about this, which is why I ask.







)


----------



## grossebeaver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


For my VE-15s:

Sensitivity (1w/1m): 95 dB

So, at 1m away, basically they will get to 95dB at 1 watt?

So, then this basically measures how loud speakers can get, at certain wattage and distances? (I am just trying to learn about this, which is why I ask.







)


Yep. A sensitivity of 95 dB is on the higher end of the spectrum for most home speakers.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grossebeaver*


Yep. A sensitivity of 95 dB is on the higher end of the spectrum for most home speakers.


Sweet.









I just wired up my Cerwin Vega AT-8s as my rear speakers... so currently just a 5.1 setup wired up, not a 7.1, for now.

I must say... I already like the setup so far, sounds pretty good. I will just take it easy on the volume since these speakers are 4 ohms... Well, not the SAT-6S speakers, but still.

I plan on ordering that Emotiva UPA-7 amp with in a couple of weeks.

Currently, I'm waiting for my Cerwin Vega 200SEs to come in, 10" foam kit from Speakerex, and 16AWG wire from monoprice.

So, pretty much, do I qualify to be in this club with my system?









Here is the specs of the system so far:

Pioneer Elite VSX90TXV
Cerwin-Vega! VE-15 (Fronts)
Cerwin-Vega! SAT-6S (Fronts
Cerwin-Vega! CLS-6C (Center)
Cerwin-Vega! AT-8 (Rear - Will be Rear back later on)

Cerwin-Vega! 200SE (When these come in, they'll be my rear, but not until I get an external amp.)

Currently am using 12AWG wire on the VE-15s, CLS-6C, and AT-8, while the SAT-6S are using 16AWG wire.


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


Sweet.









I just wired up my Cerwin Vega AT-8s as my rear speakers... so currently just a 5.1 setup wired up, not a 7.1, for now.

I must say... I already like the setup so far, sounds pretty good. I will just take it easy on the volume since these speakers are 4 ohms... Well, not the SAT-6S speakers, but still.

I plan on ordering that Emotiva UPA-7 amp with in a couple of weeks.

Currently, I'm waiting for my Cerwin Vega 200SEs to come in, 10" foam kit from Speakerex, and 16AWG wire from monoprice.

So, pretty much, do I qualify to be in this club with my system?









Here is the specs of the system so far:

Pioneer Elite VSX90TXV
Cerwin-Vega! VE-15 (Fronts)
Cerwin-Vega! SAT-6S (Fronts
Cerwin-Vega! CLS-6C (Center)
Cerwin-Vega! AT-8 (Rear - Will be Rear back later on)

Cerwin-Vega! 200SE (When these come in, they'll be my rear, but not until I get an external amp.)

Currently am using 12AWG wire on the VE-15s, CLS-6C, and AT-8, while the SAT-6S are using 16AWG wire.


Good stuff man, gunna be a nice , hard hitting setup


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


Good stuff man, gunna be a nice , hard hitting setup










Eerm, I forgot to add to the list, my CLS-15S powered subwoofer. XD

That subwoofer.... man... that thing has heavy deep bass.









My setup is nothing with out it. lol

I blew the amp in it once before, guess how? The subwoofer vibrated a couple of connectors out of place, causing a short. If that happens again, I will just get an external amp for it.


----------



## binormalkilla

I just got a pair of Polk R50 Cherries.....they sound great


----------



## spice003

please don't tell me you paid $199 ea for the speakers.


----------



## corky dorkelson

I had a pair of older Polk towers from about 1995, and I loved them. Similar configuration to the ones above (dual 8s + 1") and they were pretty nice, but a tad bright. Plenty of output though, if that's your thing.


----------



## binormalkilla

All right here are my pics:





































I didn't get a pic of my TSC sub because it's in the corner by the couch...too hard to get a good shot. Sorry about the poor quality photo on the M20 black.......

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spice003*


please don't tell me you paid $199 ea for the speakers.










Of course I didn't.....I got them for $69 a piece. They were on sale a day or so.

Unfortunately my Auzentech Prelude decided to let it's digital optical out fail, so I have to run onboard Soundmax to my receiver until the new product arrives.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*


All right here are my pics:


That's a pretty nice setup.









Pretty much all Polk Audio, huh?

Before, I was looking into getting a set of Polk Audio from NewEgg, but I had decided not to, because I wanted to just go all Cerwin-Vega! for my system.


----------



## The_Rocker

Just a quick question before I go ahead and buy my speakers in a week.

My budget for the speakers alone is Â£200. They are going to paired with a *Cambridge Audio 640A amp.* Is there better than Monitor Audio BR2's for Â£200?

I am looking for volume and a bit of a kick which still retaining clarity?

I am going to add a sub later on anyway so bass will be bought up.

This is what the BR2's look like in black


















They score good an all the reviews I have seen, any opinions?

I reckon they will be a good start to my entry into the Audiophile world with the amp I have chosen









English company as well I beleive?


----------



## TUDJ

I don't think you'll find better at the price, but you may find something else that suits your taste better if you demo'd.

As you said, they are very highly regarded by reviewers and I've seen a few places state they are the best under Â£500, thats subjective of course.

Enjoy.


----------



## noname

Should be good rocker- you'll get a good boost in clarity from a dedicated DAC.


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


I don't think you'll find better at the price, but you may find something else that suits your taste better if you demo'd.

As you said, they are very highly regarded by reviewers and I've seen a few places state they are the best under Â£500, thats subjective of course.

Enjoy.


Well I have heard that they have a good sound for rock / more punchy music which is good.

I think I will be very pleased coming from Â£200 Z-5500's to an Â£800+ set up once I have the sub as well









Will need to grab myself some quality RCA stereo cables and speaker cables.

*Can you just clarify the need for a dedicated DAC?

I am going to be running RCA from my sound card.*


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


...snip...

*Can you just clarify the need for a dedicated DAC?

I am going to be running RCA from my sound card.*


There isn't one. You'll often find in the audio world that many people confuse boutique products with necessary purchases. Your sound card will process just as well as any low-budget DAC.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


There isn't one. You'll often find in the audio world that many people confuse boutique products with necessary purchases. Your sound card will process just as well as any low-budget DAC.


but a carefully purchased DAC will almost always sound better due to a better analog output stage


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


There isn't one. You'll often find in the audio world that many people confuse boutique products with necessary purchases. Your sound card will process just as well as any low-budget DAC.


Cheers.

Would I be right in saying a dedicated DAC may only benefit me if I was to use optical out of my sound card rather than analogue?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


but a carefully purchased DAC will almost always sound better due to a better analog output stage


This is true - I just thought it worth noting that an external DAC does not inherently always trump the DAC capability built into a PC sound card.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Cheers.

Would I be right in saying a dedicated DAC may only benefit me if I was to use optical out of my sound card rather than analogue?


The purpose of a DAC is to convert a digital audio signal to an analog one. If you were using an analog output from your sound card, the digital to analog conversion has already taken place and there would be no purpose to have an external DAC. If you wanted to run optical out, then yes, you would need an external DAC.


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


This is true - I just thought it worth noting that an external DAC does not inherently always trump the DAC capability built into a PC sound card.

The purpose of a DAC is to convert a digital audio signal to an analog one. If you were using an analog output from your sound card, the digital to analog conversion has already taken place and there would be no purpose to have an external DAC. If you wanted to run optical out, then yes, you would need an external DAC.


In this case then I won't be getting external DAC as I intend to use the RCA output of my Xonar STX.


----------



## jarble

btw guys when are we going to update the member list?


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


In this case then I won't be getting external DAC as I intend to use the RCA output of my Xonar STX.


Prolly your best bet as of now. Once you get addicted with audio equip (lol), you'll want to get be sure that your source is crystal clear and well converted.


----------



## Hoodcom

picture time, this is how my speakers are setup. ^^

This one is a tad blurry, but good enough to post... and my cat wanted in the picture. lol
VE-15 and SAT-6S




































AT-8


















CLS-15S









CLS-6C









Now here are a couple of subwoofers that are not connected.

HT-10D









SAT-6W









The 10" sub which is not inside the SAT-6W enclosure because it is in need of refoaming. I've been cleaning on it, still working on it.. also waiting for the foam kit to come in.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


picture time, this is how my speakers are setup. ^^

This one is a tad blurry, but good enough to post... and my cat wanted in the picture. lol
VE-15 and SAT-6S




































AT-8


















CLS-15S









CLS-6C









Now here are a couple of subwoofers that are not connected.

HT-10D









SAT-6W









The 10" sub which is not inside the SAT-6W enclosure because it is in need of refoaming. I've been cleaning on it, still working on it.. also waiting for the foam kit to come in.



















nice


----------



## The_Rocker

Nice kit! Are you a DJ or do you just love extreme volume?

Saying that, them VE-15's look SICK!

When I get my new sub and BR2's. All the grills are coming off and staying off.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Nice kit! Are you a DJ or do you just love extreme volume?

Saying that, them VE-15's look SICK!

When I get my new sub and BR2's. All the grills are coming off and staying off.

No, I'm not a DJ, but I do like loud volumes and heavy bass.









Also, I've always been a fan of large speakers, and been a fan of Cerwin Vega since mom got her RE-30s back in '98.


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


No, I'm not a DJ, but I do like loud volumes and heavy bass.









Also, I've always been a fan of large speakers, and been a fan of Cerwin Vega since mom got her RE-30s back in '98.










I seriously like them VE-15's however I think the bass would be far too much for my room









Have to settle for a pair of Monitor Audio BR2's...

Anychance of doing a video of them playing? I looked on youtube but theres only one crap VE-15 vid and the rest are of CLS.


----------



## Hoodcom

Here are a couple of videos I have up already:


YouTube - Bass test on my Cerwin Vega's





Sorry for the videos not being clear enough, the camera just didn't have enough light to see them very well.

I do plan on making better videos later on though.


----------



## noname

Hoodcom,

That's like the perfect setup for someone who wants to blow their insides out









Looks like it goes really well with movies


----------



## The_Rocker

Just been looking at cerwin vega speakers and I really really like the look of them. They look like something that would suit my loud listening levels for rock music.

What would the sound quality on say the VE-15's or the VE-12's be like compared to Monitor Audio BR2's?

Volume is important to me and a Cerwin Vega amp and set of speakers is looking to be a nicer option


----------



## The_Rocker

Look at the bundle deals here:

http://www.htfr.com/more-info/MR290247

http://www.htfr.com/more-info/MR290249

Are they decent at all?


----------



## grossebeaver

For a small room you generally don’t need a really big speakers/power. In some respects no amount of power will get some low frequencies to sound right since the wave length could exceed the width/height of the room, and that’s without taking furniture and room materials into account either.


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grossebeaver* 
For a small room you generally don't need a really big speakers/power. In some respects no amount of power will get some low frequencies to sound right since the wave length could exceed the width/height of the room, and that's without taking furniture and room materials into account either.

Ok cheers, but value / performance wise, are then above bundles good?

I mean at Â£600 for the VE-15's with a Harmon/Kardon AMP/Receiver, thats got volume, quality and bass for less than what is in my sig.

But even this package here:

http://www.htfr.com/more-info/MR290247

What would that H/K AMP and Then VE-12's be like quality and power wise compared to my Z-5500's.

Say if I got that now, then upgraded to a nice 150w a channel Â£500 NAD AMP next month, would that be a good move?


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Just been looking at cerwin vega speakers and I really really like the look of them. They look like something that would suit my loud listening levels for rock music.

What would the sound quality on say the VE-15's or the VE-12's be like compared to Monitor Audio BR2's?

Volume is important to me and a Cerwin Vega amp and set of speakers is looking to be a nicer option











I never heard Monitor Audio speakers, so I wouldn't know...

Right now I may cry... my left VE-15 has an odd knocking sound on the enclosure when I run heavy bass to it! NOOOOOOOOOOOO! This is the first time I put major bass into them in a long time!









I had these for like a year now... I wonder if it was knocked lose during our move to this house.


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hoodcom* 
I never heard Monitor Audio speakers, so I wouldn't know...

Right now I may cry... my left VE-15 has an odd knocking sound on the enclosure when I run heavy bass to it! NOOOOOOOOOOOO! This is the first time I put major bass into them in a long time!









I had these for like a year now... I wonder if it was knocked lose during our move to this house.









Might be loose... maybe open it up and check it out.

The rocker,

The smaller monitors would be good for near field listening. The larger ones would be good for blasting music like crazy and not even worrying about quality (not saying the CVs suck quality wise).


----------



## noname

double post


----------



## ace8uk

Any guys in the UK looking for a decent radio tuner for their HI-Fi? Because Superfi have the Arcam DiVA on offer for Â£128 http://www.superfi.co.uk/index.cfm/p...roduct_ID/4328


----------



## The_Rocker

Right guys, as my first step into the extreme sound market I have decided to go with the following bundle:

http://www.htfr.com/more-info/MR290249

I will upgrade the amp if it is not up to my satisfaction after a month so hey. But I know the Harman Kardon Brand anyway.

I want volume and quality which is what this kit looks like it offers. Not only that but it just looks brilliant.

I will keep you posted.

*Any reccomendations on cables? RCA and speaker.*


----------



## Nostrano

Monster


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nostrano*


Monster



Cheers, but im not sure if I want to pay a million pounds for a cable lol.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Right guys, as my first step into the extreme sound market I have decided to go with the following bundle:

http://www.htfr.com/more-info/MR290249

I will upgrade the amp if it is not up to my satisfaction after a month so hey. But I know the Harman Kardon Brand anyway.

I want volume and quality which is what this kit looks like it offers. Not only that but it just looks brilliant.

I will keep you posted.

*Any reccomendations on cables? RCA and speaker.*


Personally I think you are making a mistake and will be plenty happy with the CA 540 and the BR2's with the XLS200 added later. You seem to be getting hung up on volume, the BR2's with the 540 Amp will go alot louder than you can listen to comfortably in a small-medium room. My 35W Amp and my Wharfedales go extremely loud, bags of volume for my 12ft x 12ft room.

Theoretically the BR2's will go even louder than my 9.1's as the BR2's are 90dB sensetivity and you'll be using a 60W @ 8ohms Amp.

My 9.1's are 86dB and my Amp is only 35W @ 8ohms.

To clarify, I've never turned my volume dial on my Amp past the 1 'o' clock position because I can't stand any louder.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
Might be loose... maybe open it up and check it out.

I took the woofer out, and I think some Gorilla glue will fix the problem. I need to pick some up sometime.

Meanwhile, here are some pictures I took:


























My cat wanted to check it out. lol


----------



## TUDJ

I might have snagged a bargain!

KEF PSW2500 for Â£85 never used!

I love local classifieds, I'll be phoning the guy tomorrow.

It's not the best sub out there but for Â£85/$120 it's an absolute steal.

*Crosses Fingers*


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


I might have snagged a bargain!

KEF PSW2500 for Â£85 never used!

I love local classifieds, I'll be phoning the guy tomorrow.

It's not the best sub out there but for Â£85/$120 it's an absolute steal.

*Crosses Fingers*


nice snag if you get it (I trust it comes in black?)


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


nice snag if you get it (I trust it comes in black?)


Yes, a black ash finish of all things, I'll be so happy if it is a black ash one, not going to get my hopes up though.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Right guys, as my first step into the extreme sound market I have decided to go with the following bundle:

http://www.htfr.com/more-info/MR290249

I will upgrade the amp if it is not up to my satisfaction after a month so hey. But I know the Harman Kardon Brand anyway.

I want volume and quality which is what this kit looks like it offers. Not only that but it just looks brilliant.

I will keep you posted.

*Any reccomendations on cables? RCA and speaker.*


I think you would have been better off with the Cambridge Audio & Monitor Audio combo. May not have played as loud or as deep, but would have been much more resolving of detail.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Nostrano*


Monster



Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Cheers, but im not sure if I want to pay a million pounds for a cable lol.










especially when coat hanger would be better... literally!









it all depends on your budget. You likely only need a couple pairs and I'm not sure what's readily available for you, but try to stay clear of the pre-packaged stuff from the chain stores.
speaker wire from even a home improvement store in the electrical section will be just as good as monster. Get at least 16awg, but you don't need more than 14-12awg.
analog interconnects, $50/pair is a pretty nice sweet spot from most small boutique cable makers. You'll get something that is competitive with other cables costing $2x in a nice copper based cable.


----------



## Mr Pink57

www.monoprice.com for all your cable needs.

pink


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mr Pink57*


www.monoprice.com for all your cable needs.

pink


He's UK.

Try Hi-Fi Cables


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Right guys, as my first step into the extreme sound market I have decided to go with the following bundle:

http://www.htfr.com/more-info/MR290249

I will upgrade the amp if it is not up to my satisfaction after a month so hey. But I know the Harman Kardon Brand anyway.

I want volume and quality which is what this kit looks like it offers. Not only that but it just looks brilliant.

I will keep you posted.

*Any reccomendations on cables? RCA and speaker.*

Hmm, extreme sound? LOL

More like, I LEIK LOUD MUSIK

Get the others, better sound quality + im sure they can get loud too.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Nostrano* 
Monster

trollinn

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Personally I think you are making a mistake and will be plenty happy with the CA 540 and the BR2's with the XLS200 added later. You seem to be getting hung up on volume, the BR2's with the 540 Amp will go alot louder than you can listen to comfortably in a small-medium room. My 35W Amp and my Wharfedales go extremely loud, bags of volume for my 12ft x 12ft room.

Theoretically the BR2's will go even louder than my 9.1's as the BR2's are 90dB sensetivity and you'll be using a 60W @ 8ohms Amp.

My 9.1's are 86dB and my Amp is only 35W @ 8ohms.

To clarify, I've never turned my volume dial on my Amp past the 1 'o' clock position because I can't stand any louder.

I totally agree with you.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I think you would have been better off with the Cambridge Audio & Monitor Audio combo. May not have played as loud or as deep, but would have been much more resolving of detail.

especially when coat hanger would be better... literally!










Agree with you there. And yes!! i saw that somewhere regarding the coat hanger lol.

@Hoodcom -








Those pictures kinda made me happy inside


----------



## The_Rocker

Yo,

Just need to clarify something about my listening tastes which I should have done from the start.

I listen to mainly rock and metal (no guessing that.....). I also listen to the more slow and progressive stuff like Pink Floyd. This style of music doesn't really ouse crystal clarity and is not like a mozart peice where you want to be able to hear every slight detail.

This instantly makes power my priority. I do want quality as well (and I beleive I am right in saying that these Cerwin Vega's are better than Z-5500's). And for Â£600 ish, I think that these speakers and harman/kardon amp is an ideal starting point for a rock listening kit.

I probably will change out the amp etc... eventually. But for now I just want a nice powerful and "better than Z-5500" set up for some foot stomping rock n roll.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Yo,

Just need to clarify something about my listening tastes which I should have done from the start.

I listen to mainly rock and metal (no guessing that.....). I also listen to the more slow and progressive stuff like Pink Floyd. This style of music doesn't really ouse crystal clarity and is not like a mozart peice where you want to be able to hear every slight detail.

This instantly makes power my priority. I do want quality as well (and I beleive I am right in saying that these Cerwin Vega's are better than Z-5500's). And for Â£600 ish, I think that these speakers and harman/kardon amp is an ideal starting point for a rock listening kit.

I probably will change out the amp etc... eventually. But for now I just want a nice powerful and "better than Z-5500" set up for some foot stomping rock n roll.


have you ever listened to Pink Floyd on a great system? There's a reason why you can get SACD and vinyl to this day


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Yo,

Just need to clarify something about my listening tastes which I should have done from the start.

I listen to mainly rock and metal (no guessing that.....). I also listen to the more slow and progressive stuff like Pink Floyd. This style of music doesn't really ouse crystal clarity and is not like a mozart peice where you want to be able to hear every slight detail.

This instantly makes power my priority. I do want quality as well (and I beleive I am right in saying that these Cerwin Vega's are better than Z-5500's). And for Â£600 ish, I think that these speakers and harman/kardon amp is an ideal starting point for a rock listening kit.

I probably will change out the amp etc... eventually. But for now I just want a nice powerful and "better than Z-5500" set up for some foot stomping rock n roll.

I think you are judging the way music sounds on a high end system without any previous listening experience. That's a big no-no.

Ultimately its your decision, and we really have no say. Good luck with what ever you do, hopefully you'll take some advice from people who have experience in this stuff.


----------



## ace8uk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


I might have snagged a bargain!

KEF PSW2500 for Â£85 never used!

I love local classifieds, I'll be phoning the guy tomorrow.

It's not the best sub out there but for Â£85/$120 it's an absolute steal.

*Crosses Fingers*


Ok. I Officially hate you







I've looked everywhere for a good deal on that sub as it matches my speakers, but the cheapest I have found is Â£220 and for that price I would rather get the epos els. But for Â£85? Damn that's a good deal. Keep us updated on how it sounds if you decide to pull the trigger









Edit: I also agree with you noname, if you can't be bothered to atleast make an effort and go to a shop to experience some high end audio equipment then you have no reason to compare speakers that you have merely read about on the internet.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Yo,

Just need to clarify something about my listening tastes which I should have done from the start.

I listen to mainly rock and metal (no guessing that.....). I also listen to the more slow and progressive stuff like Pink Floyd. This style of music doesn't really ouse crystal clarity and is not like a mozart peice where you want to be able to hear every slight detail.

This instantly makes power my priority. I do want quality as well (and I beleive I am right in saying that these Cerwin Vega's are better than Z-5500's). And for Â£600 ish, I think that these speakers and harman/kardon amp is an ideal starting point for a rock listening kit.

I probably will change out the amp etc... eventually. But for now I just want a nice powerful and "better than Z-5500" set up for some foot stomping rock n roll.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


have you ever listened to Pink Floyd on a great system? There's a reason why you can get SACD and vinyl to this day










was so about to say the same thing the better your system the better Floyd gets. the only thing I have not enjoyed on my speakers so far is screamo









now with that said get what ever speakers you want because if you want to like the speakers you will


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
Ok. I Officially hate you







I've looked everywhere for a good deal on that sub as it matches my speakers, but the cheapest I have found is Â£220 and for that price I would rather get the epos els. But for Â£85? Damn that's a good deal. Keep us updated on how it sounds if you decide to pull the trigger









Edit: I also agree with you noname, if you can't be bothered to atleast make an effort and go to a shop to experience some high end audio equipment then you have no reason to compare speakers that you have merely read about on the internet.

:]

depending on the finish i might sell it on, if so you'll be first to know.


----------



## ace8uk

Walnut would be an ideal finish, as my current KEF's are walnut finish and they look gorgeous. Black ash would be a good finish too though.


----------



## grossebeaver

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
have you ever listened to Pink Floyd on a great system? There's a reason why you can get SACD and vinyl to this day









I agree 100% While a bit cliche as far as high-fi goes, a pristine LP on a McIntosh MT10, played through a pair of McIntosh MC275, over a pair of B&W Diamonds (or Nautilus if you're lucky enough to find someone with a pair), is pretty damn close to sitting with the artist sitting in the same room. Particularly when you can clearly hear the overtones and undertones of the individual instruments. Oddly enough, this setup will just sound "sorta good" with metal (probably not edgy enough for most tastes), and who the hell listens to screamo anyway??!


----------



## airbozo

Add me to the club...

Analogue: Alesis Point seven's
Digital: Genelec 2029 BL-Y

Both studio monitors connected to my yamaha digital mixer (DM 9-16)


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
snip

now with that said get what ever speakers you want because if you want to like the speakers you will









Bingo.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grossebeaver*


I agree 100% While a bit cliche as far as high-fi goes, a pristine LP on a McIntosh MT10, played through a pair of McIntosh MC275, over a pair of B&W Diamonds (or Nautilus if you're lucky enough to find someone with a pair), is pretty damn close to sitting with the artist sitting in the same room. Particularly when you can clearly hear the overtones and undertones of the individual instruments. Oddly enough, this setup will just sound "sorta good" with metal (probably not edgy enough for most tastes), *and who the hell listens to screamo anyway?*?!


one must not be narrow minded with their music







yes I do listen to screamo and just about everything else


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


one must not be narrow minded with their music







yes I do listen to screamo and just about everything else










did you sort your speakers?


----------



## soloz2

I listen to all kinds of music too... I listen to lots of classical, jazz and rock... but also country, electronic... and Drop Kick Murphies are playing right now!!!!

My wife is complaining because she just filled her iPod Touch in the other room! I've trained her well!


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I listen to all kinds of music too... I listen to lots of classical, jazz and rock... but also country, electronic... and Drop Kick Murphies are playing right now!!!!

My wife is complaining because she just filled her iPod Touch in the other room! I've trained her well!

My iTouch is nearing fullness now too :[ I won't go below 256 AAC though.

Contemplating buying an iPod Classic 120GB. If only the Wadia iPod transport had an anywhere near sensible price....


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


did you sort your speakers?


negative 
the connection on the back plate is good. 
the drivers are glued in and I *really* don't want to take a knife to them







to check their wires


----------



## Mr Bear

I will be upgrading again in the near future, but my current setup is a Sony 6.1 head unit 100w per channel; Pair of RCA floor speakers (12" woofers, 6" mid and 1" tweets) got em at RadioCrap a few years back for a decent price; Polk Audio Center channel; Bose dual cubes for surround; Dual (bridged) Marantz MA500 monoblock amps for sub, connected to a Premier 12" sub in a custom box. Computer is connected via optical digi cable.
My previous setup was a Denon 2808;(same)polk audio center channel;pair bose 301's in front, dual cubes in back;(same)sub setup.
Sold the 2808 and the 301's when me and my ex split so I could move (and so she wouldnt get them).

My future setup..
Denon 3808(maybe 4808) unit
Polk Audio Center Channel
Front -Pair of Paradigm Studio 80 V2's (if I can find some in good shape), otherwise Paradigm Studio 100s
Surround - probably a pair of Paradigm Studio ADP-590
and I will definitely keep the monoblocks, but do not know if I am going to switch sub.


----------



## The_Rocker

I have an 80GB IPOD Classic which is nearly full!


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I might have snagged a bargain!

KEF PSW2500 for Â£85 never used!

I love local classifieds, I'll be phoning the guy tomorrow.

It's not the best sub out there but for Â£85/$120 it's an absolute steal.

*Crosses Fingers*

I was too late









Already sold.


----------



## ace8uk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I was too late









Already sold.

Unlucky, I didn't expect it to last long at that price to be honest.







Still, there are some really good deals at the moment in the Sub department. The Epos Els has been getting some really good reviews recently due to it's price drop to Â£190. I really like the look of the Mission E3 asr too, but I haven't read many reviews about it.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
Unlucky, I didn't expect it to last long at that price to be honest.







Still, there are some really good deals at the moment in the Sub department. The Epos Els has been getting some really good reviews recently due to it's price drop to Â£190. I really like the look of the Mission E3 asr too, but I haven't read many reviews about it.

The Wharfedale SW150 has nice reviews and is around the same price point.


----------



## ace8uk

Indeed it does, but if I was going to go for a 150watt sub then I would probably go for the BK Gemini. I can't tell you how close I have come to ordering that mission sub though, it's the Walnut finish that does it for me







Still, it seems as though the Epos els might be better and it seems to be getting a lot of praise over at avforums. I just wish I could go somewhere that has both subs so I can listen and compare the two together. I know superfi still do the Epos, but they stopped selling the Mission a while ago.

If anyone was interested in that arcam tuner that's on sale at the moment and wants to know how it sounds, my Dad ordered one for his Hifi today, so if you want to know how it sounds, let me know.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
Indeed it does, but if I was going to go for a 150watt sub then I would probably go for the BK Gemini. I can't tell you how close I have come to ordering that mission sub though, it's the Walnut finish that does it for me







Still, it seems as though the Epos els might be better and it seems to be getting a lot of praise over at avforums. I just wish I could go somewhere that has both subs so I can listen and compare the two together. I know superfi still do the Epos, but they stopped selling the Mission a while ago.

If anyone was interested in that arcam tuner that's on sale at the moment and wants to know how it sounds, my Dad ordered one for his Hifi today, so if you want to know how it sounds, let me know.









Yeah the BKElec Subs seem to be great value. I'm still undecided whether to stick with 2.0 for a while and upgrade to a nice set of floorstanders or go 2.1, get a Sub and then upgrade my standmounts. I'm talking about over the coming few years anyway so I have plenty of time to consider my options









When I have the money to spend I will definatley be taking the trip to SuperFi to compare some nice 2.1 and 2.0 systems.


----------



## ace8uk

I originally wanted floorstanders but my desk is built in and only one side is open, and I don't have any room anywhere else. I guess bookshelf speakers are easier to take with me when I go to Uni later this year.

One day I hope to upgrade to the Dali Lektor 8's but I think I would need a sub to accompany them as they lack the bass found in a lot of other floorstanders, but then it seems as though all the Dali series seem to lack bass, which is a shame as they are some of the best sounding speakers I have ever heard.

Edit: Wow, not sure where abouts in the UK you are, but check out these KEF Q7's on sale for Â£199.95
http://www.richersounds.com/showprod...=KEF-Q7-DK-APP


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
I originally wanted floorstanders but my desk is built in and only one side is open, and I don't have any room anywhere else. I guess bookshelf speakers are easier to take with me when I go to Uni later this year.

One day I hope to upgrade to the Dali Lektor 8's but I think I would need a sub to accompany them as they lack the bass found in a lot of other floorstanders, but then it seems as though all the Dali series seem to lack bass, which is a shame as they are some of the best sounding speakers I have ever heard.

Edit: Wow, not sure where abouts in the UK you are, but check out these KEF Q7's on sale for Â£199.95
http://www.richersounds.com/showprod...=KEF-Q7-DK-APP

Wow even for ex-dem thats a great price, too far for me though, I'm in Manchester.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Hoodcom*


That's a pretty nice setup.









Pretty much all Polk Audio, huh?

Before, I was looking into getting a set of Polk Audio from NewEgg, but I had decided not to, because I wanted to just go all Cerwin-Vega! for my system.










Yea I'm really happy with this setup.....I got a great deal. The center channel sounds great, but I didn't shop around much....I paid $100, and I wonder if I could have found one for a better deal. 
Then again it sounds great, so I dunno. I'm still waiting on my sound card to arrive........
This setup sounds _amazing_ with a blu-ray movie......oh man it should really be illegal.

I almost instinctively get up to answer the door if my wife is watching a show where someone knocks....it sounds _so_ real.

I'm still playing around with different settings in the software and on the receiver.....so many options.....

I really can't believe I got those Polk R50s for $69 a piece.


----------



## soloz2

for cheaper subs the TAD sub I'm selling is pretty good. Easily the best I've heard for the price. You couldn't even make a sub yourself for hat price!


----------



## Namrac

Member list finally updated. Sorry I took so long guys, haven't been around OCN much the last couple weeks.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Namrac*


Member list finally updated. Sorry I took so long guys, haven't been around OCN much the last couple weeks.


Your avatar freaks me out


----------



## Namrac

Quote:



Originally Posted by *binormalkilla*


Your avatar freaks me out










Boxxy has now been replaced by Zoidberg.


----------



## binormalkilla

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Namrac*


Boxxy has now been replaced by Zoidberg.










Futurama, nice


----------



## Jimmy2Shoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Namrac* 
Member list finally updated. Sorry I took so long guys, haven't been around OCN much the last couple weeks.

I'm not there









And I'm getting a 2nd setup for the bedroom: Denon D-M37 mini system









Should get it tomorrow


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jimmy2Shoe* 
I'm not there









And I'm getting a 2nd setup for the bedroom: Denon D-M37 mini system









Should get it tomorrow









It's supposed to be a great little system, what speakers are you pairing it with?


----------



## Jimmy2Shoe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
It's supposed to be a great little system, what speakers are you pairing it with?

Stock ones... I didn't have the heart to pay 450 CDN for the system and chuck the speakers... it's a bedroom system anyway, so for now the stock ones will do (rebranded Mission speakers I think).

Here is the post to my main system for admissibility to the speaker club.

http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...ml#post5684727


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jimmy2Shoe* 
Stock ones... I didn't have the heart to pay 450 CDN for the system and chuck the speakers... it's a bedroom system anyway, so for now the stock ones will do (rebranded Mission speakers I think).

Here is the post to my main system for admissibility to the speaker club.

http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...ml#post5684727

I know its too late, but you can buy the unit on its own, hence my Q


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Namrac*


ace8uk - KEF IQ1
alexisd - Spekercraft AIM8 4 
Aura - Moth Audio Cicadas
Beanbagofdoom - Audioengine A2
Binormalkilla - Polk Audio R50
Chipp - Sansui SP-3000, Polk Audio PSW10
Corky dorkelson - Hafler TRM-6
Cyberspyder - DIY Zaph ZBM4
Ecci-BANZAII!!! - Fisher F4/255 MKII
Eureka - M-Audio BX5a
Grossebeaver - B&W CM9
H3||scr3am - AV123 XLS Encores, AV123 X-Sub
Hoodcom - Cerwin-Vega! AT-8
*Jarble - Wharfdale Diamond 9.1*
Mikecdm - B&W Nautilus 805
Mr_Pink57 - JBL S38II
MW041443 - Wharfdale Diamond 9.1
Namrac - Yamaha A526
Noname - Onix Reference 0.5
S2kphile - Mackie MR5
Silent_nightr34 - KRK RP5
SilkRoad - Infinity Primus 150/PS210
Soloz2 - Onix Reference 1 MKII
Spice003 - Polk Audio RtI A1, CSI A4, PSW303
Tofunater - JBL Control One
tUDJ - Wharfedale Diamond 9.1
Vincent Vega - Klipsch Chorus II
Waqasr - Jamo Studio 170


yay I now have diamonds. 9.5's please

btw thanks for the update


----------



## MW041443

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


yay I now have diamonds. 9.5's please

btw thanks for the update


Hmm.. Better change mine to cubic zirconia while you're there. Sadly, mine are sitting lifeless on the desk beside me for fear of them being damaged where they were.


----------



## S2kphile

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


yay I now have diamonds. 9.5's please

btw thanks for the update


You gotta put Mackie MR8s and Audioengine A2s on that list as well since I have both of them as well


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 

@Hoodcom -








Those pictures kinda made me happy inside

lol

Well, I used wood glue, and it fixed the problem.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Just got my tracking number for:

- A pair of AV123 ELT525M 
- Harman Kardon AVR154

Big thanks to soloz for his guidance.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL*


Just got my tracking number for:

- A pair of AV123 ELT525M 
- Harman Kardon AVR154

Big thanks to soloz for his guidance.










Woot! Any eta?


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Woot! Any eta?

Next Wednesday. Woot!!


----------



## soloz2

I just got a package from av123 as well. It goes along with the two 500w sub amps that arrived last week. A new transformer


----------



## ace8uk

I received a packaged this morning too! Wasn't mine though, it's my Dad's new Arcam tuner. I'm quite tempted to hook it up to my Hifi and have a listen while he's in France though


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ace8uk*









I received a packaged this morning too! Wasn't mine though, it's my Dad's new Arcam tuner. I'm quite tempted to hook it up to my Hifi and have a listen while he's in France though










Do it! I'm sure he won't mind...

If he complains, just say you were thinking of him and burning it in a little bit so he can appretiate it more


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Do it! I'm sure he won't mind...

If he complains, just say you were thinking of him and burning it in a little bit so he can appretiate it more










I like the way you think


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL*


Just got my tracking number for:

- A pair of AV123 ELT525M 
- Harman Kardon AVR154

Big thanks to soloz for his guidance.










nice!!!


----------



## Jimmy2Shoe

Just got my Denon Mini System for my room... and I have to admit: it's pretty awesome.

The D-M37 paired with the Denon speakers sound fantastic. Honestly I was really surprised... it sounded really good, probably the best you can get for a CD/AMP/Tuner/Speaker package all for less than 450CAD.

Obviously the bass is a little anemic, but i'd say that for most music types excluding hip-hop, people would really enjoy them.

Sorry, no pictures... camera phone sucks.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Jimmy2Shoe* 
Just got my Denon Mini System for my room... and I have to admit: it's pretty awesome.

The D-M37 paired with the Denon speakers sound fantastic. Honestly I was really surprised... it sounded really good, probably the best you can get for a CD/AMP/Tuner/Speaker package all for less than 450CAD.

Obviously the bass is a little anemic, but i'd say that for most music types excluding hip-hop, people would really enjoy them.

Sorry, no pictures... camera phone sucks.

It has a Sub-Out connection









Do it!!!!!!


----------



## grossebeaver

I'm currently auditioning a pair of B&W 683, 684 and 685s to check out their updated entry level line, and also to compare against the CM9 setup I currently use. After a couple days of breaking in the drivers, the impressions have been pretty good overall for "budget" B&Ws, and they are a huge improvement of the previous 600 series, which were frankly sub-par for the price.

The 683 stands out with a very even response, smooth highs/mids, and solid bass extension down to around 45Hz, after which the response tails off significantly. The 684s while decent, sounded a bit anemic, especially after listening to the 683s. Which was expected considering it has a smaller enclosure, and has to rely more heavily on the port to extend its low end. The 685s at around $600 a pair, really surprised me with their sound especially for a bookshelf speaker. The highs especially were exceptionally smooth. The best sound I got out of these was using a port plug that was supplied with the speakers to tighten up the overall bass response, and pairing it with a Sunfire TS-EQ 10 sub. On a budget it would be a pretty good option for a small/med sized room (well with a different sub).

I just thought I'd toss this out there for those looking for a well rounded pair of speakers that has an even response similar to a studio monitor, except with a bit more life to the sound.

Topless pic of the 683:


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grossebeaver* 
I'm currently auditioning a pair of B&W 683, 684 and 685s to check out their updated entry level line, and also to compare against the CM9 setup I currently use. After a couple days of breaking in the drivers, the impressions have been pretty good overall for "budget" B&Ws, and they are a huge improvement of the previous 600 series, which were frankly sub-par for the price.

The 683 stands out with a very even response, smooth highs/mids, and solid bass extension down to around 45Hz, after which the response tails off significantly. The 684s while decent, sounded a bit anemic, especially after listening to the 683s. Which was expected considering it has a smaller enclosure, and has to rely more heavily on the port to extend its low end. The 685s at around $600 a pair, really surprised me with their sound especially for a bookshelf speaker. The highs especially were exceptionally smooth. The best sound I got out of these was using a port plug that was supplied with the speakers to tighten up the overall bass response, and pairing it with a Sunfire TS-EQ 10 sub. On a budget it would be a pretty good option for a small/med sized room (well with a different sub).

I just thought I'd toss this out there for those looking for a well rounded pair of speakers that has an even response similar to a studio monitor, except with a bit more life to the sound.

Topless pic of the 683:









how are they put together?
tweeter
mid
woofer
woofer?

sweet looking speakers btw


----------



## corky dorkelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
how are they put together?
tweeter
mid
woofer
woofer?

sweet looking speakers btw









Yes, they are layed out just like you posted. You can always tell a woofer by it's beefy surround. That mid looks sick. I need to get some towers, eventually.


----------



## grossebeaver

Quote:



Originally Posted by *corky dorkelson*


Yes, they are layed out just like you posted. You can always tell a woofer by it's beefy surround. That mid looks sick. I need to get some towers, eventually.


Yeah, they use 2 ported 6" woofers. The midrange on the 683 is actually the same one used in the CM series which is nearly three times the price. The sound is rich/smooth almost to a point where it may take away some of the edginess of some heavy rock (Manson almost sounded too "nice"). Personally, I love the sound for most music particularly with solo violin/cello, solo electric guitar, organ, and orchestra.


----------



## Eek

Would some Swans M200MK II qualify? Lol


----------



## soloz2

sure

Lets keep the thread on topic. No cheap computer speakers, tell your girlfriends about them


----------



## ace8uk

I finally gave in and ended up ordering myself an Epos ELS Subwoofer for my Hifi today. Now to play the waiting game


----------



## The_Rocker

Well, Iam currently having a hard time finding a pair of Cerwin Vega VE15 speakers for sale in the UK without having to wait for stock...

However, during my search, I came across these:

*Audio Intimidation S120*

http://www.udmdjstore.co.uk/details.asp?ProductID=36232

Does anyone know if these speakers are any good?

I have never heard of the brand myself however it seems to be around a bit.

Any opinions?


----------



## soloz2

since Cerwin Vega speakers have been quite popular here as of late I thought this would be a good read








http://www.hometheatersound.com/equi..._elt25_5_0.htm


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
since Cerwin Vega speakers have been quite popular here as of late I thought this would be a good read








http://www.hometheatersound.com/equi..._elt25_5_0.htm

Where have I seen those before?









I'm still debating getting floorstanders vs standmounts for my speaker upgrade, such a shame I won't be able to find any ELT525T in the UK to demo :[

My problem at the moment is having such a weak amp, I can't justify a mid-range set of speakers to myself so it looks like the amp may be next on the list after all (after Cans







)


----------



## sP00N

I got 2 Cerwin Vega AT 10's, A 400Watt Denmark brand speaker (used for midranger lol) and some satellite speakers in the rear. My JVC amp works for now, but I'd love to get something that puts out more than the 80watts per channel i get now


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Well, Iam currently having a hard time finding a pair of Cerwin Vega VE15 speakers for sale in the UK without having to wait for stock...

However, during my search, I came across these:

*Audio Intimidation S120*

http://www.udmdjstore.co.uk/details.asp?ProductID=36232

Does anyone know if these speakers are any good?

I have never heard of the brand myself however it seems to be around a bit.

Any opinions?



Anyone?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Anyone?


I told you, CA 540 + MA BR2









I wouldn't expect too much from floorstanders under Â£200.


----------



## ace8uk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
My problem at the moment is having such a weak amp, I can't justify a mid-range set of speakers to myself so it looks like the amp may be next on the list after all (after Cans







)

It's a shame you don't live near Nottingham, they have a Cambridge Audio 540A amplifier on clearance for Â£79.99 http://www.richersounds.com/showprod...B-AZUR540A-SIL


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
It's a shame you don't live near Nottingham, they have a Cambridge Audio 540A amplifier on clearance for Â£79.99 http://www.richersounds.com/showprod...B-AZUR540A-SIL

I'll most likely be going down the Pre & Power Amp route







(and its going to be a while before I can afford to upgrade anything anyway)

I've just brought the KEF Sub up to my system and forgot how much I miss the lower freq's. It's a shame this Sub isn't that good, the bass is far too flabby and muddy for my liking. I'll be waiting to hear your verdict on the Epos


----------



## ace8uk

The pre-amp, power amp route does sound like a better ugrade and you will probably notice a bigger improvement. Like you said though, it's not cheap.

KEF aren't exactly known for their bass, is it the psw2500 you bought for Â£90? The KEF kube's aren't bad, but they aren't the best either. If it is the psw2500 you were talking about before, then for Â£90 (I think that's how much you said it cost) it's not a bad buy but I reckon you could sell it on ebay for Â£150-Â£200.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
The pre-amp, power amp route does sound like a better ugrade and you will probably notice a bigger improvement. Like you said though, it's not cheap.

KEF aren't exactly known for their bass, is it the psw2500 you bought for Â£90? The KEF kube's aren't bad, but they aren't the best either. If it is the psw2500 you were talking about before, then for Â£90 (I think that's how much you said it cost) it's not a bad buy but I reckon you could sell it on ebay for Â£150-Â£200.

Nah, I missed the PSW, he sold it before he returned my email/call :/

Its an old KEF 20B from the 90's. All of my upgrades are awaiting a better job to come along, trying to buy speakers/amps/subs etc on a part time wage while paying rent among plenty of other stuff is nigh on impossible. I've decided that I'm happy with what I have for the moment for the amount of money I've spent but will be getting better kit once I find a real job









Mike


----------



## ace8uk

Oh I see, may I ask how much you paid? I know what you mean though, this audio stuff eats too much of my money. I'm happy with my setup at the moment and I will be even happier when I receive my subwoofer. Next purchase will be a cambridge audio DACmagic and some auralex mopads for my speakers as at the moment they are only on rubber feet and I have no room for speaker stands


----------



## Arganius

Does my giant 300 watt bass amp count? I can plug my computer into it lol... And its gK so its not ****ty..

But seriously. Does it?


----------



## JoeUbi

Sign me up, I have a pair of Definitive StudioMonitor 450s.

Still need to get mounts


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


nice!!!


Thanks









Today I officially ditched my Z-5500 and moved to something better. Can I join the club meow?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
Oh I see, may I ask how much you paid?

For the Sub? I didn't









My grandfather moved out to Spain a few years ago and left all his AV equipment with us, it was only recently I got it all out and had a fiddle, which led to my setup now :]

He left a fairly decent Yamaha AV Reciever which is hooked up to the TV downstairs along with some Bose cubes *Shudder* and some Bose 301's from the 80's which are actually not that bad. I have a wardrobe full of a few CDP's, Tuners, a MD player, 2 cassette decks and a TT, oh and the Passive Sub from the Bose Accoustimass system which sucks beyond belief.


----------



## ace8uk

Well if you got it all for free, quit complaining!







I received a parcel today containing cables and banana plugs and a note saying "Epos ELS Subwoofer to follow". Why must companies torture me like this!


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ace8uk*


Well if you got it all for free, quit complaining!







I received a parcel today containing cables and banana plugs and a note saying "Epos ELS Subwoofer to follow". Why must companies torture me like this!


I am only being honest









Who'd you buy the Sub from? Gotta laugh at the note


----------



## ace8uk

Ha, it wasn't quite so informal as that but that's still pretty much what the letter inside meant. It was bought from audioaffair, the cables came within the next working day of ordering and their prices are very good, not to mention free delivery on everything.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ace8uk*


Ha, it wasn't quite so informal as that but that's still pretty much what the letter inside meant. It was bought from audioaffair, the cables came within the next working day of ordering and their prices are very good, not to mention free delivery on everything.


They seem to have great prices, added them to bookmarks.

They don't seem to have quite the selection of places like HiFix though.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUQorcG5NNc


----------



## The_Rocker

http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...ml#post5892627

Take a look


----------



## TUDJ

Alleluia!

Enjoy


----------



## Blue_Fire

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
since Cerwin Vega speakers have been quite popular here as of late I thought this would be a good read








http://www.hometheatersound.com/equi..._elt25_5_0.htm

that was a good read. thx.


----------



## jarble

well since I had to open my diamonds up to fix a tweeter problem I thought Id go ahead and mod them





















and why mod something that already sound's great for the same reason we overclock









sorry if I should ave made a new thread but I felt it fit here

moding material= filter-tow (the uncrimped cigarette filters)


















mid range driver


















sub driver


















the small amount of stuffing they had in there


















and after

























crossovers and port


----------



## soloz2

here's what I would do:

1. install norez instead of the batting you have.
2. pull those crossovers and replace the components with same value ones, I would recommend mills resistors, sonicap caps and air core inductors.


----------



## BugBash

I would deffinatly change those capacitors and probably the resistor too!


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


here's what I would do:

1. install norez instead of the batting you have.
2. pull those crossovers and replace the components with same value ones, I would recommend mills resistors, sonicap caps and air core inductors.


thanks I may try that in the near future I would like to change the audio path around some before I start doing large changes to the speakers(not to mention I need to pay these off







)

if I did not have a in at Eastman I would go for the norez but I can get the filtertow for free


----------



## The_Rocker

Ok guys, my *Monitor Audio BR2's* came today, along with my *Cambridge Audio 640A V2*

**This is only a temp setup until I get stands for the speakers**





































*I am VERY VERY VERY happy with the sound!







*


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Ok guys, my *Monitor Audio BR2's* came today, along with my *Cambridge Audio 640A V2*

**This is only a temp setup until I get stands for the speakers**





































*I am VERY VERY VERY happy with the sound!







*


very sexy speakers


----------



## The_Rocker

Can I join the speaker club now?









See sig.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Can I join the speaker club now?









See sig.


I think so when ever they update again


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Can I join the speaker club now?









See sig.

Haha. Same here.

I think it might be a bit of a wait to get added. The list hasn't been updated since 2 weeks ago.


----------



## Hoodcom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
Ok guys, my *Monitor Audio BR2's* came today, along with my *Cambridge Audio 640A V2*

**This is only a temp setup until I get stands for the speakers**





































*I am VERY VERY VERY happy with the sound!







*

Nice! I'm glad you got a pair of speakers you really enjoy!









They look awesome too.


----------



## noname

Nice speakers rocker!!!

How do you like them?


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


Nice speakers rocker!!!

How do you like them?


I love them









Much better than Z-5500's









I don't think I need a sub as well


----------



## noname

Hahah, yup - i don't have a sub, nor do i plan on getting one. Monitors of this calibre can really put out some bass.

I can't imagine how much my walls/floor would shake with a sub...


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


Hahah, yup - i don't have a sub, nor do i plan on getting one. Monitors of this calibre can really put out some bass.

I can't imagine how much my walls/floor would shake with a sub...










You'd be surpised how much they don't put out. The difference between 2.0 and 2.1 for me is quite big.

I've just got my new toy, I bought an iPod dock and now have my iPod hooked up to my amp via LOD, it sounds much better







. It's really good with the remote too.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


Hahah, yup - i don't have a sub, nor do i plan on getting one. Monitors of this calibre can really put out some bass.

I can't imagine how much my walls/floor would shake with a sub...










the ref .5 really don't dig that deep. Shoot me an email


----------



## ace8uk

All this talk of Bass, and my Subwoofer still hasn't arrived







Don't think i will be ordering from audioaffair again, it still says the sub is in stock on the website and it was ordered on 24th March. Not good enough really, especially when you account the lack of communication.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ace8uk*


All this talk of Bass, and my Subwoofer still hasn't arrived







Don't think i will be ordering from audioaffair again, it still says the sub is in stock on the website and it was ordered on 24th March. Not good enough really, especially when you account the lack of communication.


I was thinking today that you hadn't posted about it, I put it down you being too busy enjoying it. Have you phoned them?


----------



## ace8uk

Nope, I'll be emailing them tomorrow. I was orginally going to order it from superfi but it said on their site that they were sold out and were expecting them to come any time between 1 and 8 weeks. I checked the other day and Superfi now have it back in stock... I really wish I had waited.

Oh well, we'll see what AudioAffair have to say for themselves tomorrow I guess.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ace8uk*


Nope, I'll be emailing them tomorrow. I was orginally going to order it from superfi but it said on their site that they were sold out and were expecting them to come any time between 1 and 8 weeks. I checked the other day and Superfi now have it back in stock... I really wish I had waited.

Oh well, we'll see what AudioAffair have to say for themselves tomorrow I guess.


Phone them IMO, they can fob you off alot easier via email or even ignore it. Keep phoning until they answer. You're not being unreasonable, they are taking longer than is acceptable especially with no communcations stating a reason for the delay.


----------



## ace8uk

I think an email will do for now. If they ignore it. Hell will be risen.


----------



## TUDJ

I've just put a granite slab under my sub and it seems to have helped a little, theres less boom, which I put down to the floor and not the sub.

It seems to have helped with the amount travelling through the floor to the room below too









Not bad for Â£2.


----------



## jarble

1 more week and I will know if my job (and my dads job) are safe for awhile. if we are not chopped I'll be upgrading my audio


----------



## rush340

My dad had an extra Pioneer receiver lying around that he gave me, so I ordered a pair of Polk TSi200's. Can't wait. It was tough finding a way to make room for this huge receiver in my little apartment room though. It's time for a new desk too. They're barely going to fit on my desk with just my 24" monitor on it (and that's after I moved my 19" onto a nightstand next to the desk). Until the speakers come, it's serving as an oversize headphone amp.

Will the TSi200's get me into the speaker club?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rush340* 
My dad had an extra Pioneer receiver lying around that he gave me, so I ordered a pair of Polk TSi200's. Can't wait. It was tough finding a way to make room for this huge receiver in my little apartment room though. It's time for a new desk too. Their barely going to fit on my desk with just my 24" monitor on it (and that's after I moved my 19" onto a nightstand next to the desk). Until the speakers come, it's serving as an oversize headphone amp.

Will the TSi200's get me into the speaker club?

they do not appear to be "computer" speakers so I would say yes but wait till someone of more clout give's the green light


----------



## Chipp

I'd sure expect they would. Nice little setup you've got there.


----------



## Turnoz

I'll throw my set up in there. Don't laugh


















Receiver: Sony STR-AV1070
Top speakers: Celestion D 200
Bottom speakers: Stark Design SR-1

Plugged stereo since that's the only thing that existed back when the receiver was made xD

The cone in the middle of the bottom speakers completely fell out when I decided to take the screen covering them to look inside. The glue wasn't holding them in place anymore and when I tried to grab them they broke in my hands. Do they really make much of a difference?


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Turnoz*


I'll throw my set up in there. Don't laugh









Receiver: Sony STR-AV1070
Top speakers: Celestion D 200
Bottom speakers: Stark Design SR-1

Plugged stereo since that's the only thing that existed back when the receiver was made xD

The cone in the middle of the bottom speakers completely fell out when I decided to take the screen covering them to look inside. The glue wasn't holding them in place anymore and when I tried to grab them they broke in my hands. Do they really make much of a difference?


1 I prefer stereo to 5.1 7.1
2 if are referring to the driver cone (and I think you are) that will make a HUGE difference you will notice a buzzing/rattling sound not good m8


----------



## rush340

I'm guessing he means the dust caps. I'm not sure how important they are to the sound, but you can buy replacements.


----------



## Darkslide

I'll join with my Klipsch ProMedia 2.1


----------



## ace8uk

Coincidentally, my sub has now been dispatched, just one day after I sent them an email asking where it was.


----------



## JeremyFr

I guess sign me up,

Energy Take 5+1's, I'll get some pics later on (though the sub is hidden)
Powered by a Yamaha RX-V730.


----------



## Turnoz

Yeah I did mean the dust caps. You can see it much more clear here.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Turnoz* 
Yeah I did mean the dust caps. You can see it much more clear here.










if that is the dust cap it will still cause buzzing as the cone oscillates the dust cap will buzz









it still look's to me like you killed the driver cone but I have been wrong just once though









edit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Darkslide* 
I'll join with my Klipsch ProMedia 2.1

2) Membership and parameters:

Membership is site-wide, but limited insofar as to the particular sort of gear a member is running in his audio setup.

With a few other select members, we briefly discussed any limitations or parameters needed to be set on acceptance into the club. We did this because certain brands, names, sorts are simply not up to standards with what is consistently deemed as quality across the entire hobby of audio. The issue is, of course, that a brand such as Logitech, which is truly not a quality product as far as speakers go, has reached a niche market in the pc-enthusiast world and maintains popularity in it. I personally feel that someone truly engaged and interested in speakers will have moved beyond Logitech, etc., at a certain point or is considering doing so eventually. As such, we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters.

Yes, this may stir up some controversy, but for now these are the parameters. Thanks for your cooperation and understanding.


----------



## Turnoz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
if that is the dust cap it will still cause buzzing as the cone oscillates the dust cap will buzz









it still look's to me like you killed the driver cone but I have been wrong just once though









Well honestly the speakers sound great. The foam is still perfectly fine and the actual cone is in a good shape. Its just that piece of foam that completely disintegrated when I touched it. Is its only use to keep dust away from the magnet?


----------



## wtrskii3156

Wow that was a very long thread to read... But sign me up!
I've got a 5.1 Definitive Technology Pro Cinema 60 system powered by a Harmon/Kardon AVR 146 amp. I absolutely love it. It is amazing. I hope these qualify...







haha Tell me what you think!


----------



## JeremyFr

Ok, here's the pics.

BTW Before anyone comments on my subwoofers knobs both turned all the way, I'm running off the crossover in the receiver using the x-over input on the sub so those are both bypassed


----------



## rush340

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Turnoz* 
Well honestly the speakers sound great. The foam is still perfectly fine and the actual cone is in a good shape. Its just that piece of foam that completely disintegrated when I touched it. Is its only use to keep dust away from the magnet?

I'm not sure how vital it is that dust stays out of there, but either way, replacement dust caps are less than $5. May as well measure them and order a couple new ones to glue on. Nice setup by the way, looks loud!


----------



## ace8uk

Oh. My. Gosh. This subwoofer is insane! My whole house shook while watching transformers, and music really sounds complimented. I've only had it up for a few hours because I've had to help a friend out with his PC for the whole day. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Turnoz*


Well honestly the speakers sound great. The foam is still perfectly fine and the actual cone is in a good shape. Its just that piece of foam that completely disintegrated when I touched it. Is its only use to keep dust away from the magnet?


sorry the way I was looking at it. it looked like you puncture the cone its self me bad m8

Quote:



Originally Posted by *wtrskii3156*


Wow that was a very long thread to read... But sign me up! 
I've got a 5.1 Definitive Technology Pro Cinema 60 system powered by a Harmon/Kardon AVR 146 amp. I absolutely love it. It is amazing. I hope these qualify...







haha Tell me what you think!


nice stuff









Quote:



Originally Posted by *JeremyFr*


Ok, here's the pics.

BTW Before anyone comments on my subwoofers knobs both turned all the way, I'm running off the crossover in the receiver using the x-over input on the sub so those are both bypassed




















Quote:



Originally Posted by *ace8uk*


Oh. My. Gosh. This subwoofer is insane! My whole house shook while watching transformers, and music really sounds complimented. I've only had it up for a few hours because I've had to help a friend out with his PC for the whole day. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow.


oh yes we must have pics


----------



## JeremyFr

I feel so behind the times, I just found the other day that Klipsch bought out API in 2006 which was the Canadian parent company of Athena/Energy/Mirage, kind of ironic really when I picked the Energy's over Klipsch's when I purchased them 7 years ago.

I'm hoping to get many many many more happy years out of them I love em, though I may upgrade to a larger setup, I'm also looking to do a dedicated 2 channel music only system & getting back into vinyl.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
Oh. My. Gosh. This subwoofer is insane! My whole house shook while watching transformers, and music really sounds complimented. I've only had it up for a few hours because I've had to help a friend out with his PC for the whole day. I'll post up some pictures tomorrow.

Hooray!

I was suprised when I first set up the sub on my rig how much of the bottom end is not produced bu the standmounts, I always knew they didn't dig deep but it still suprises me how deep they don't go


----------



## i_hax

Ah, I'd love to join this prestigious club, even though my setup pales in comparison to many here. Do I even qualify?

Sansui AU-8500 & unknown model Utah floorstanders.

Pioneer SX-990 & Yamaha NS-AW1 for my desk setup.

I'll get some pictures ASAP. My dad is the original owner of the Utah's, but they are so old now & hard to find info on... perhaps someone here can help?


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:



Originally Posted by *i_hax*


Ah, I'd love to join this prestigious club, even though my setup pales in comparison to many here. Do I even qualify?

Sansui AU-8500 & unknown model Utah floorstanders.

Pioneer SX-990 & Yamaha NS-AW1 for my desk setup.

I'll get some pictures ASAP. My dad is the original owner of the Utah's, but they are so old now & hard to find info on... perhaps someone here can help?


Sasnsui is a reputable company of old, I don't actually know if they're still around or not, but made some solid audio gear back in the day, and I'm sure that we'll try to help identify those Utah floor standers as best we can.


----------



## xapno

Guess ill get in on the action. Mainly working on cars as of late, with high excursion subs trying to get some major db and spl down in the 15hz- zone. Sold most of my home audio speakers to get better car speakers.

Sold my speakercraft aim 4 and mdus, and cried. Left with not a lot for my pc, but im not on here too much now and I am in my car more.

2 lanzar heritage subs, cheap yes, but I heard them in shop and at a mid volume they sound very nice. I can compare it to a 500$ energy or polk any day. Sorry I do not like those makes as many have them here sorry







.

My price and joy heresy IIs, have them for a long time and I am still in love.

A project I worked on bringing back to life some oldies. There highs and mids are hard to find. There a joy to have when watching old movies. Ports need to still be redone, that is why there missing







. Also need to put a horn in.

Kyocera amp. Beauty and would not trade for a new amp any day. Might not have the power, but with the klipsch its amazing. Pic missing as max as 5 but whatever









Ill be getting a new ht setup in years to come, and will probably diy for some fun.

My audiobahns and audiopulse are in the car. Although I have no amp in there for the pulses yet.

Note the ****ty amp powering the old speakers is temporary as my old Yamaha is getting repaired.

They are all in crappy shape, well box's. But that comes with age. All my shiny new speakers are gone, and for those that have been buying speakers regularly, you should know that old is sometimes better


----------



## The_Rocker

Quote:



Originally Posted by *xapno*


Guess ill get in on the action. Mainly working on cars as of late, with high excursion subs trying to get some major db and spl down in the 15hz- zone. Sold most of my home audio speakers to get better car speakers.

Sold my speakercraft aim 4 and mdus, and cried. Left with not a lot for my pc, but im not on here too much now and I am in my car more.

2 lanzar heritage subs, cheap yes, but I heard them in shop and at a mid volume they sound very nice. I can compare it to a 500$ energy or polk any day. Sorry I do not like those makes as many have them here sorry







.

My price and joy heresy IIs, have them for a long time and I am still in love.

A project I worked on bringing back to life some oldies. There highs and mids are hard to find. There a joy to have when watching old movies. Ports need to still be redone, that is why there missing







. Also need to put a horn in.

Kyocera amp. Beauty and would not trade for a new amp any day. Might not have the power, but with the klipsch its amazing. Pic missing as max as 5 but whatever









Ill be getting a new ht setup in years to come, and will probably diy for some fun.

My audiobahns and audiopulse are in the car. Although I have no amp in there for the pulses yet.

Note the ****ty amp powering the old speakers is temporary as my old Yamaha is getting repaired.

They are all in crappy shape, well box's. But that comes with age. All my shiny new speakers are gone, and for those that have been buying speakers regularly, you should know that old is sometimes better










Damn, that stuff is in a mess man


----------



## JeremyFr

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


Damn, that stuff is in a mess man










agreed! hehe


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Well, I got bored and decided to cell shade myself a new wallpaper.


----------



## spice003

looks nice
how do you do that?









you should write a tutorial or something.


----------



## The_Rocker

The club list needs updating!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
The club list needs updating!

agreed

would be nice to have my 9.5's not 9.1's


----------



## wtrskii3156

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL*


Well, I got bored and decided to cell shade myself a new wallpaper.











hey thats my amp!


----------



## The_Rocker

That wallpapers alright, but pretty basic.

I might have to set about making some killer ones in photoshop later.

*Any chance a mod can give a more active member ownership of the second post so we can get the list updated?*


----------



## eureka

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


That wallpapers alright, but pretty basic.

I might have to set about making some killer ones in photoshop later.

*Any chance a mod can give a more active member ownership of the second post so we can get the list updated?*


I don't think it really matters that much man. What're a few words over actual listening to music?

Close your eyes and enjoy.


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *wtrskii3156* 
hey thats my amp!









Haha nice.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The_Rocker* 
That wallpapers alright, but pretty basic.

I might have to set about making some killer ones in photoshop later.

Yes, it's basic. That's the point!

I'm sick and tired of overly photoshopped wallpaper that made using every filter possible.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eureka* 
I don't think it really matters that much man. What're a few words over actual listening to music?

Close your eyes and enjoy.









Agreed. It's just a list.


----------



## rush340

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FaLLeNAn9eL*


Yes, it's basic. That's the point!

I'm sick and tired of overly photoshopped wallpaper that made using every filter possible.


I'm with you. Can't stand busy looking wallpapers, or icons scattered all over the desktop. Great job on the wallpaper, clean and well done!

And on topic: Still waiting for my Polks, they hadn't even shipped them last time I checked


----------



## Darkslide

Quote:



Originally Posted by *The_Rocker*


*Any chance a mod can give a more active member ownership of the second post so we can get the list updated?*



I'd do it I'm on Monday - Friday just not on Sat and Sun.


----------



## ace8uk

Like people said, it's just a list. Nobody really cares what people do and don't have. I'd rather not spend half my life making sure everyone knows what I have, I like to actually listen to my sound system instead of bragging about it.


----------



## JerseyDubbin

I just like lookin through the list so i can see what speakers i can upgrade to in the future...That is the only real reason i see to updating it.


----------



## TUDJ

New Wharfedale Diamond 10 series due this Summer;

Linky

I'm liking the contrast of the metal and black. They've dropped the front ports, I wonder if they have rear ports or are sealed. Any readers of Chinese here?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
New Wharfedale Diamond 10 series due this Summer;

Linky

I'm liking the contrast of the metal and black. They've dropped the front ports, I wonder if they have rear ports or are sealed. Any readers of Chinese here?









I have a Chinese exchange student here but it is very late so I will have him translate tomarow


----------



## Lozza

I want in! Just got a pair of Tapco S8's.


----------



## MW041443

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
New Wharfedale Diamond 10 series due this Summer;

Linky

I'm liking the contrast of the metal and black. They've dropped the front ports, I wonder if they have rear ports or are sealed. Any readers of Chinese here?









Thanks for the link. Very pretty..


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
New Wharfedale Diamond 10 series due this Summer;

Linky

I'm liking the contrast of the metal and black. They've dropped the front ports, I wonder if they have rear ports or are sealed. Any readers of Chinese here?









from what we can read they are still working on the site so not a lot of information


----------



## Powderhound

Do M-Audio AV40 studio monitors count?


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
New Wharfedale Diamond 10 series due this Summer;

Linky

I'm liking the contrast of the metal and black. They've dropped the front ports, I wonder if they have rear ports or are sealed. Any readers of Chinese here?









very sexy looking. I have some old Wharfedales-Modus1


----------



## MW041443

Finally bought something to run them


----------



## TUDJ

Lovely setup, big desk









You might want to isolate the speakers from the desk, use blutac for now







. It'll stop the desk from resonating. Nice amp too, 540A?


----------



## dasparx

Set ups(divorced parents, both are my PC set-ups):

1: Marantz PM7200 -> 4x JAMO Compact 90.

2: B&O Beocenter 2100 -> Philips HI-FI 22R36V (Oldschool,but sounds real sweet)


----------



## Kitarist

this guy has a HUGE desk lol


----------



## MW041443

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Lovely setup, big desk









You might want to isolate the speakers from the desk, use blutac for now







. It'll stop the desk from resonating. Nice amp too, 540A?

Thanks. Does it make a lot of difference isolating the speakers? I hadn't even thought about it.

It's the 340A SE. I got it 20% off on the weekend! I couldn't afford to spend any more than I did. :S

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kitarist* 
this guy has a HUGE desk lol
















I love it. The picture makes it seem a little bigger than it is though.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MW041443* 
Thanks. Does it make a lot of difference isolating the speakers? I hadn't even thought about it.

It's the 340A SE. I got it 20% off on the weekend! I couldn't afford to spend any more than I did. :S

I love it. The picture makes it seem a little bigger than it is though.









Yeah there is quite a difference once the speakers are isolated, for me it got rid of alot of "boom", in basic terms, the vibrations from the speakers are transferred to the desk (and floor) which is turn make the desk vibrate and create noise. If you can budget for it, take a look at the Auralex Mopads

I nearly went for the 340A SE but I got my current amp at a nice price.









And regarding the desk, even if the picture makes it look bigger than it is, it still must be huge, I thought mine was big:










Tudj.


----------



## Ecchi-BANZAII!!!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Yeah there is quite a difference once the speakers are isolated, for me it got rid of alot of "boom", in basic terms, the vibrations from the speakers are transferred to the desk (and floor) which is turn make the desk vibrate and create noise. If you can budget for it, take a look at the Auralex Mopads

I nearly went for the 340A SE but I got my current amp at a nice price.









And regarding the desk, even if the picture makes it look bigger than it is, it still must be huge, I thought mine was big:










Tudj.

Take out that LED on the case and it will look better.
Nice monitors btw.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ecchi-BANZAII!!!*


Take out that LED on the case and it will look better.
Nice monitors btw.


PC Case? I can't see it when I'm sat at the desk so I don't care


----------



## MW041443

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Yeah there is quite a difference once the speakers are isolated, for me it got rid of alot of "boom", in basic terms, the vibrations from the speakers are transferred to the desk (and floor) which is turn make the desk vibrate and create noise. If you can budget for it, take a look at the Auralex Mopads

I nearly went for the 340A SE but I got my current amp at a nice price.









And regarding the desk, even if the picture makes it look bigger than it is, it still must be huge, I thought mine was big:

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h274/tudj/Setup.jpg

Tudj.


Cool. I'll try sort something out. Silly question, but would rubber case feet work?

Also I love the head you keep your headphones on. Awesome.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MW041443*


Cool. I'll try sort something out. Silly question, but would rubber case feet work?

Also I love the head you keep your headphones on. Awesome.


I think it'll depend on the material and it's sound absorbing properties. They might help some as less of the speaker is in contact with the desk (In other words - I'm not sure







)

You can also buy something similar to case feet - Milty FoculPods, I've used a UK link just for referance, which country are you in?

Tudj.


----------



## drjoey1500

Can I join? Marantz HD550 with an old Sony ta-h300 amp (~60 watts/channel stereo). Pics later...


----------



## MagicBox

Ah well add me in as well







As posted in a different thread:










Own design, speaker types, all visaton:

1x DSM25-FFL (Tweeter)
2x DSM50-FFL (Mid)
2x TIW-360 (Low)

3-way configuration, 600W @ 4 Ohm nominal.


----------



## Chipp

Sick tower you've got there, MagicBox.







I'm envious.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MagicBox* 
Ah well add me in as well







As posted in a different thread:










Own design, speaker types, all visaton:

1x DSM25-FFL (Tweeter)
2x DSM50-FFL (Mid)
2x TIW-360 (Low)

3-way configuration, 600W @ 4 Ohm nominal.

nice man very nice


----------



## vwgti

I have a set of klipsch B-3 bookshelfs, and a KSW-12 sub. Ill get pics asap.


----------



## MW041443

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I think it'll depend on the material and it's sound absorbing properties. They might help some as less of the speaker is in contact with the desk (In other words - I'm not sure







)

You can also buy something similar to case feet - Milty FoculPods, I've used a UK link just for referance, which country are you in?

Tudj.

I'm in AU.


----------



## timw4mail

I've got a pair (2.1 actually) of Altec Lansing ADA-305
They look like this:


----------



## Aura

Extremely impressive Magic Box







.


----------



## MagicBox

Thanks =) They are a big pride to me. Obviously I wouldn't run them at maximum volume and it's because of that why the sound is so pure at common normal and loud levels. Hardly any mechanical movement of the speaker membranes / domes. Neither are they PA speakers. These are Visaton's top-of-the-line Hi-Fi speakers.

Same goes for the amp. Due to the huge reserves of power, both amp and speakers operate in an area that exhibits the fewest possible distortion. The amp has < 0.0008% THD at powerlevels below 50 watts. (0.03% THD at max load of 500W)


----------



## thatsboot3101

Can I join up? I've got a Kenwood VR-6050 receiver, a pair of Infinity Primus 250 towers front channel, and old pair of infinity sm-65 shelf speakers rear. I'm using an optimus pro x44av as center channel and have some Pioneer sub from a HTIB system. I'll get pics up when I get my digital camera back.


----------



## drjoey1500

Here they are.
















Full setup looks like this.








This is the only way I could get good sound out of them in a nearfield setup. I know it's probably bad to have them facing each other, but I guess with me sitting between them, I kind of damp out most of the potential reflections







. Its weird too, the soundstage is kind of like headphones because they are on either side of my head. Gaming is interesting to say the least. It has that surround effect out of only two speakers.

*edit* My apologies for the huge pictures. My camera is either 640x480 or 1600x1200 +.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Here they are.

Full setup looks like this.

This is the only way I could get good sound out of them in a nearfield setup. I know it's probably bad to have them facing each other, but I guess with me sitting between them, I kind of damp out most of the potential reflections







. Its weird too, the soundstage is kind of like headphones because they are on either side of my head. Gaming is interesting to say the least. It has that surround effect out of only two speakers.

*edit* My apologies for the huge pictures. My camera is either 640x480 or 1600x1200 +.

yikes they have seen some serious where and tear









also what cans are those? kinda look like ATH


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
yikes they have seen some serious where and tear









also what cans are those? kinda look like ATH

LOL...aw did the duct tape give it away?








*cough* well cuz ive taken them apart like 5 times, dropped a wood box on the midrange (patched it back up) etc... there used to be lpads for the mids and tweeters, but im too lazy to put them back in. Like I'd use them anyway.

Still sound good though. Especially since they were free.

good guess ATH-M50. AT studio monitors







.


----------



## thatsboot3101

As promised heres my setup...(sorry for the crappy cameraphone pics)

My Kenwood VR-6050
Attachment 106523

Primus 250 towers
Attachment 106525

Old infinity bookshelves for surround
Attachment 106527

And my new bass project, a 500 watt monoblock alpine car amp hooked up to an old psu
Attachment 106524

and one of the 2 10" alpine type-x subs from my car
Attachment 106526


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *thatsboot3101* 
As promised heres my setup...(sorry for the crappy cameraphone pics)

My Kenwood VR-6050
Attachment 106523

Primus 250 towers
Attachment 106525

Old infinity bookshelves for surround
Attachment 106527

And my new bass project, a 500 watt monoblock alpine car amp hooked up to an old psu
Attachment 106524

and one of the 2 10" alpine type-x subs from my car
Attachment 106526

nice setup man


----------



## eureka

I really want a powered sub to compliment my BX5a now.

But the BX10 is Â£260 and I only earn Â£300 a month.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eureka* 
I really want a powered sub to compliment my BX5a now.

But the BX10 is Â£260 and I only earn Â£300 a month.









Epos ELS

Â£400 of Sub for Â£190


----------



## ace8uk

The Epos sub is amazing, but good luck getting one. Even though places say they have them in stock, they only order direct from epos headquarters in China and from what I've heard they are fresh out. Also, I'm not sure if you would be able to connect it to a set of self powered studio monitors?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
The Epos sub is amazing, but good luck getting one. Even though places say they have them in stock, they only order direct from epos headquarters in China and from what I've heard they are fresh out. Also, I'm not sure if you would be able to connect it to a set of self powered studio monitors?

I assumed they'd have Pre-outs or something, looking at the M-Audio site they only have 1/4 inch and XLR. Sorry for being noob


----------



## eureka

Yeah, I should have thought it through more maybe.

I only use my BX5a with my PC at the moment though so I don't require a sub desperately. Maybe when I buy my sound gear for my trinitron.


----------



## drjoey1500

got a new amp and cd player. yet more used old audio equipment.
amp - JVC AX-S331
cd player - JVC XL-V111
It was part of my grandpa's sound system he gave me. It included a turntable







(bad influences







).

The left channel occasionally starts to go at low power levels. Why does this always happen? one channel is quiet and starts to go... I turn up the volume and it pops on. My old amp did that too. Its really a pain with headphones. Like now the left channel starts to die. *shrug*

Hmm, its ok after a while of usage, maybe it needs to warm up?









His stereo came with speakers though. heh. so heres my story.

They looked pretty good. 3way loudspeakers, ported 12" woofer, cone tweeter and mid. Freq. response graph on the front showed basically flat with rolloff start at about 70hz. f10 was like 40hz. got em home and I wasn't impressed. They dwarfed my marantz in size, but when I compared them the marantz killed them. both treble and bass. the JVC sounded like they were underwater. So I popped em open. You guys would've LOL'ed. I would've if it weren't so sad. There was about 1" of damping mat. laying on the bottom, and a TINY crossover. Seriously like 4 tiny electrolytic caps and a few resistors. My question is, why did'nt they just make better 2way? Heh heh, anyway those are not staying.


----------



## soloz2

because people will pay more for a 3-way or 4-way because they think it's better even if it's not...


----------



## vwgti

Heres the pics I promised earlier of my speakers. So can I join now?


----------



## drjoey1500

Whats up with this? The speaker club shifted into neutral for a week?

So i've been thinking about rebuilding my speakers a bit. mostly the stuffing and such. my first problem is the vent. My guess is its an aperiodic vent of some sort. Its basically this thing...








stuffed into the port.








as you can see the foam has seen better days. Its rotted most of the way away on one and completely gone on the other.
My best guess is it was really dense foam on that thing to control the bass output/extention. the two black pieces screw onto the middle part and can be tightened or loosened. My guess is when it is tightened all the way it was supposed to create close to a sealed enclosure, and when loosened it would create closer to a ported enclosure. Thus the Vary-Q written on it. Any ideas for getting replacement foam for it? It's really dense stuff, but it crumbles in my hands at the slightest brush. Right now I'm using them without, but I'd like to see what they can do in their original condition.

Next problem. the padding. So everything was great inside there until my younger self being an audio noobie at the time opened them up. That was fine until like an idiot i trashed the stuffing in one of them







. I figure it shouldn't be too hard to replace, only since its the type of aperiodic or whatever it needs stuffing in the whole thing, not just the walls. heres a pic of what it looks like.
















about .75" thick without being compressed. I could weigh it, I did before but i dont remember how much it was.

Last problem. Impedence. The back of the speakers say 8ohm, but they measure about 4ohms or so. My amp is 8 ohm stable. Right now I'm using one of the two lpads I ripped out of each speaker to send them up to 8 ohms but this is less than ideal. I wouldn't use the lpads anyway, the back of the speakers say freq. response is 40hz to 20khz +or- 3dB. I have no reason to turn down the tweeters or mids. Crossover points are 3khz and 800hz. Suggestions? should i just get a better lpad with thicker gauge or reinstall the lpads and turn down the mids and tweeters until i get to 8 ohms. All the wiring in these looks like 20gauge aluminum.

Any ideas. My problems don't have to be all perfectly solved, I'd just like to start discussion again while fixing up my speakers.


----------



## H3||scr3am

my suggestions, although they may not be 100% accurate or the best ideas.

for the port caps, it sounds to me like they originally used high density foam. it has lots of applications, especially in arts/crafts, etc. Here I can grab some from the dollor store, it's main use is for holding artificial flower arrangements in pots, simply stab them into the foam, and they'll stay. Honestly, for a dollar, try it









for the interior lining, use cotton batting, but make sure to reline both of them... otherwise they'll each have different sound signatures. other options include norez, black hole 5, and more.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


my suggestions, although they may not be 100% accurate or the best ideas.

for the port caps, it sounds to me like they originally used high density foam. it has lots of applications, especially in arts/crafts, etc. Here I can grab some from the dollor store, it's main use is for holding artificial flower arrangements in pots, simply stab them into the foam, and they'll stay. Honestly, for a dollar, try it









for the interior lining, use cotton batting, but make sure to reline both of them... otherwise they'll each have different sound signatures. other options include norez, black hole 5, and more.


cool thanks. I just tryed stuffing a tightly rolled up t-shirt into the port and it tightened up the bass alot. I tryed it on both of them and for the first time, I compared the two and the one with no stuffing sounded muddy. NO







Really?...lol

It was actually quite impressive how much the bass tightened up, I could actually make out the tone of the bass drum. I guess I'll look out for some half-decent damping material and high density foam.

How about poly-fill, I know it's traditionally glued to the sides of the cabinets. Is it too dense to stuff the whole cabinets with? Or should I just buy some thick quilt batting or something like that?

*edit* once everyone comes back, do you think I should rewire the inside with thicker gauge wire? There's one electrolytic cap. I think these are from the late '70's like '77-'78 or something, do I need to replace it?


----------



## MagicBox

Don't be mistaken, 8Ohm speakers often measure very low ohms, because what you are measuring is only the resistive impedance (DC resistence of the copper coil), not the reactive impedance (AC resistance). 8 Ohms measure 3 - 6 resistive, 4 Ohms half of that.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


cool thanks. I just tryed stuffing a tightly rolled up t-shirt into the port and it tightened up the bass alot. I tryed it on both of them and for the first time, I compared the two and the one with no stuffing sounded muddy. NO







Really?...lol

It was actually quite impressive how much the bass tightened up, I could actually make out the tone of the bass drum. I guess I'll look out for some half-decent damping material and high density foam.

How about poly-fill, I know it's traditionally glued to the sides of the cabinets. Is it too dense to stuff the whole cabinets with? Or should I just buy some thick quilt batting or something like that?

*edit* once everyone comes back, do you think I should rewire the inside with thicker gauge wire? There's one electrolytic cap. I think these are from the late '70's like '77-'78 or something, do I need to replace it?


get us some pics of the interior wiring scheme, and crossovers


----------



## Chipp

Caps usually start to drift off value after 15 to 20 years, so yeah, I'd consider replacing it. Don't damage the old one though, I know several people who just flat-out liked the sound of the off-value cap better.


----------



## jarble

we need to update the member list 2 months is unacceptable


----------



## drjoey1500

Cool. thx for all the help. So its safe to run them without the LPad? DC resistance is 4.3ohms on one and 4.6 ohms on the other.

I'll get some pics up later. so I went to joanns and got some polyester batting, polyfil and some foam. I'll try it out and see what happens.

Just a side note I think the internal wiring is really more like 18gauge.


----------



## Chipp

You'd be amazed at some of the junk wiring inside many speakers... I was working on an older PA system today, replacing its 1/4 inputs with Speakon. Got inside, and was startled to realize that its owners had been feeding about 1000w (its rated program power) though 18-gauge wiring to the drivers inside the enclosure. The run from the amp to the speaker was fine, but from crossover to drivers... Sheesh...


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


You'd be amazed at some of the junk wiring inside many speakers... I was working on an older PA system today, replacing its 1/4 inputs with Speakon. Got inside, and was startled to realize that its owners had been feeding about 1000w (its rated program power) though 18-gauge wiring to the drivers inside the enclosure. The run from the amp to the speaker was fine, but from crossover to drivers... Sheesh...


Thats why I have a little laugh whenever I see people that have bought Â£1000's + cables for their speakers, the cable's inside the cabinet will not be anywhere near as good, granted they won't be as bad as your example.

Â£6k's worth of cable..


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
You'd be amazed at some of the junk wiring inside many speakers... I was working on an older PA system today, replacing its 1/4 inputs with Speakon. Got inside, and was startled to realize that its owners had been feeding about 1000w (its rated program power) though 18-gauge wiring to the drivers inside the enclosure. The run from the amp to the speaker was fine, but from crossover to drivers... Sheesh...

Heh...yea like my grandpa's speakers that had like 14 gauge ofc (my guess, 20+ years old and still orange) monster cables going from amp to speakers, when inside it was like 20 gauge aluminum wire.

Heres my crossover...








That blue one in the middle on the top is the electrolytic cap i was talking about. the other two are mylar. Is mylar fine? or should I replace those too? Tolerance is +-10% on those.
The value for the electrolytic is 33uF +- 20%. The coils are only marked with part numbers, no values







.

Should I not mess with the crossover? I only have a soldering pen, no de-soldering tools.

The xover is majorly complicated, ive spent hours puzzling over it lol, many of which was just trying to figure out how to put it back together. Weird stuff going on like this.








Orange stripe is mid + and tweeter -, blue is tweeter +, and brown stripe AND black stripe are mid -.









Maybe ill rewire my xover with like 12gauge ofc lol. What gauge would you recommend for say 100wpc? I think Im eventually gonna pull the trigger on some ofc from PE, they have some awesome deals for 12 and 14 gauge wire.


----------



## soloz2

that's a horrible crossover...


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


that's a horrible crossover...


blunt but true


----------



## BugBash

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


You'd be amazed at some of the junk wiring inside many speakers... I was working on an older PA system today, replacing its 1/4 inputs with Speakon. Got inside, and was startled to realize that its owners had been feeding about 1000w (its rated program power) though 18-gauge wiring to the drivers inside the enclosure. The run from the amp to the speaker was fine, but from crossover to drivers... Sheesh...


WORD!

I opened a not very old set of JBL `PA` Speakers, had 15" Woofer and a horn-loaded tweeter, black trapezoidy shape with a large orange JBL logo on the sides, weird ribbing on the top and bottom for stacking.

I was LOLed my ar$$e off when I saw the size of the crossover and the wiring inside!! The owner wasnt impressed by my appraisal!

And these were supposed to be PROPER PA Speakers!

My Focal standmount speakers have crossovers that DWARF that in those JBL`s!!!


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


that's a horrible crossover...


How so? is it the iron core coils?

heh...you should see the other speakers I have. I counted like 2 electrolytic caps and 2 resistors...total...3way.


----------



## H3||scr3am

proper Xover


















Skiing Ninja X-LS Encore Ninja Master Upgrade. (I need a set of these myself...)


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


proper Xover


















Skiing Ninja X-LS Encore Ninja Master Upgrade. (I need a set of these myself...)


And I bet they cost more than my whole audio setup







.

This is kind of pointless unless there's a way to measure inductance (cheaply).


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


proper Xover


















Skiing Ninja X-LS Encore Ninja Master Upgrade. (I need a set of these myself...)


good god where do i get one I would put it on my wall that is so sexy


----------



## biatchi

Kef 103.2 Reference

Pics when I find my camera charger.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


And I bet they cost more than my whole audio setup







.

This is kind of pointless unless there's a way to measure inductance (cheaply).


that set specifically is $332 USD with free shipping







/ + $61 for the optional NoRez Kit.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


good god where do i get one I would put it on my wall that is so sexy


http://www.skiingninja.com/


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
that set specifically is $332 USD with free shipping








/ + $61 for the optional NoRez Kit.

http://www.skiingninja.com/

to bad they don't make one for my diamonds I would all over that like a fat kid on a cupcake


----------



## Chipp

Added some gear to my collection today... I guess I'm officially a DJ now. Community CSX35-S2 mains and a Mackie FR M2600 power amp. I'm excited about the amp, and the good news is that when fed a decent amount of power the cheap cabs sound decent enough to use for parties.


----------



## TUDJ

What HiFi Competition,

http://whathifi.com/Win/20-pairs-of-...ers-to-be-won/

Free entry, UK only.


----------



## ace8uk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
What HiFi Competition,

http://whathifi.com/Win/20-pairs-of-...ers-to-be-won/

Free entry, UK only.

Oh, +rep for you my friend. I saw this article before, but presumed they were just the lektor 1's which I had already enetered, but now I see they have 10pair os the lektor 1's and 10 pairs of the lektor 2's. I've heard the Lektor 1's, and I was amazed. They sound amazing considering the tiny cabinet and I would love to hear the lektor 2's!

In other words, I got a granite slab for my sub today. It's reduced the vibrations a bit, and the bass sounds a little tighter. I'm still extrmely impressed by this bargain epos sub though.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
Oh, +rep for you my friend. I saw this article before, but presumed they were just the lektor 1's which I had already enetered, but now I see they have 10pair os the lektor 1's and 10 pairs of the lektor 2's. I've heard the Lektor 1's, and I was amazed. They sound amazing considering the tiny cabinet and I would love to hear the lektor 2's!

In other words, I got a granite slab for my sub today. It's reduced the vibrations a bit, and the bass sounds a little tighter. I'm still extrmely impressed by this bargain epos sub though.

Good stuff, you seem to have got it at the right time too, people who bought just after you faced weeks of waiting for their orders and AA messed up by sending the wrong finishes to the wrong people etc etc.


----------



## ace8uk

Yeah, normally I hesitate towards such a bargain to make sure it's legit, but I took the risk this time and I'm glad I did. I never thought the light cherry finish was so saught after, the only reason I got it was because I can't stand the dark cherry colour.

I'll be getting some money in two weeks from friends as a collective 18th birthday present, so I might treat myself to a cambridge audio Dacmagic to complete my audio system


----------



## soloz2

just received one of these for a demo:
http://store.virtueaudio.com/product...ap21-pbf-1.htm


----------



## ace8uk

Woah, 100watt per channel on that little thing?


----------



## soloz2

with the big power supply yeah, I think I have the 50wpc unit though


----------



## jarble

just thought Id post an update on the sound of my 9.5's 100+hr in the hi's have come to fruition bass and mids have stayed about the same. the speaker's still favor classical, jazz and piano but there is now nothing that sound's bad (in the beginning screamo was almost unlistenable) the only down side to the speakers is that they are power hungry and they sound better the louder they get







. over all I was blown away by the step up from low-mid quality speakers to entry range audiophile speakers.


----------



## soloz2

nevermind, I do have the big power supply here... so 60wpc RMS It's a nice little amp. I would say it's a bit better than my Gizmo with my computer as source... over the next few days I'll have to give it a go with a better source and also powering my ELT525 towers.


----------



## Chipp

Anybody have an interest in a very quiet, clean power amp? I've got a Samson S700 sitting idle here that I have a feeling somebody could probably make better use of than I.

350wpc at 4 ohms, bridges to 700w at 8 ohms. 8 ohms stereo expect around 280wpc. This amp has great noise floor. My speakers have 106dB sensitivity and even with the gain at 50% there is no audible hiss or noise. Fan noise is not noticable. For reference, SVS sells these amps along with their passive high-end HT subs.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Anybody have an interest in a very quiet, clean power amp? I've got a Samson S700 sitting idle here that I have a feeling somebody could probably make better use of than I.

350wpc at 4 ohms, bridges to 700w at 8 ohms. 8 ohms stereo expect around 280wpc. This amp has great noise floor. My speakers have 106dB sensitivity and even with the gain at 50% there is no audible hiss or noise. Fan noise is not noticable. For reference, SVS sells these amps along with their passive high-end HT subs.

Do you deliver?









Shipping to the UK would be astronomical so I'll pass









I'm sure someone will be able to give it a good home


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Anybody have an interest in a very quiet, clean power amp? I've got a Samson S700 sitting idle here that I have a feeling somebody could probably make better use of than I.

350wpc at 4 ohms, bridges to 700w at 8 ohms. 8 ohms stereo expect around 280wpc. This amp has great noise floor. My speakers have 106dB sensitivity and even with the gain at 50% there is no audible hiss or noise. Fan noise is not noticable. For reference, SVS sells these amps along with their passive high-end HT subs.


I might be interested toss me a pm


----------



## jarble

list of all the people who have posted in this thread

no= no speakers posted 
unknown= I have no idea what speakers you posted









this list has not been sorted in admittance non admittance I will leave that to someone more qualified than me

disclaimer this took me about 1-2hrs to do so some things may be wrong as my eyes were getting blurry by the end

lets get these people in the club









NFF - mhc-gx45
Nostrano - no
Waqasr - Jamo Studio 170 
xapno - 2 lanzar heritage subs, heresy IIs
Darren9 - Monitor BR2's, Monitor BR1's
JerseyDubbin - no
dasparx - Marantz PM7200 -> 4x JAMO Compact 90 ,B&O Beocenter 2100 -> Philips HI-FI 22R36V 
Nostrano - no
waqasr - Jamo studio 170
exileschild - no
airbozo - Alesis Point seven's, Genelec 2029 BL-Y
Arganius - no
Dennisjr13 - no
Kitarist - no
S2000_Skyline12 - no
beanbagofdoom - Audioengine A2's 
i_hax - Sansui AU-8500, Utah floorstanders, Pioneer SX-990, Yamaha NS-AW1
JoeUbi - Definitive StudioMonitor 450s
tofunater - Sony STR-K740P + JBL Control One's 
Eek - Swans M200MK II
phospholipid - no
Mr Bear - RCA floor speakers, Polk Center channel, Bose dual cubes, Premier 12"
Lozza - Tapco S8's
Powderhound - M-Audio AV40 
Vincent Vega - Klipsch Chorus II
thunder12 - yamaha?
killahd - Z-5500's 
Gollie - no
sP00N - Cerwin Vega AT 10's, 400Watt Denmark
biatchi - Kef 103.2
silent_nightr34 - KRK Rp5's, RP10 sub
Xeroni - Sony's ?
The Rider - no
ImmortalKenny - no
Blue_Fire - no
timw4mail - Altec Lansing ADA-305 
procpuarie - no
Zig-Zag - Boston BA635s
Christodagr8 - G51's
wire - no
Cyberspyder - DIY Zaph ZBM4
thatsboot3101 - Kenwood VR-6050, Primus 250 towers 
slngsht - no
Mr_Pink57 - JBL S38II 
wtrskii3156 - 5.1 Definitive Technology Pro Cinema 60 
alexisd - Spekercraft AIM8 4 
Darkslide - Klipsch ProMedia 2.1
lolhax - JBL CF-100s 
xguntherc - Bose Acoustimass 16 Series II
vwgti - klipsch B-3, KSW-12 
BugBash - custom speakers
Ecci-BANZAII!!! - Fisher F4/255 MKII
MagicBox - custom speakers 1x DSM25-FFL,2x DSM50-FFL, 2x TIW-360 
Parental Fornicator - Klipsch Promedia 2.1's 
Turnoz - Celestion D 200, Stark Design SR-1 
.Sup - Wharfedale Modus 1, KRK Rokit, custom sub
Mikecdm - B&W Nautilus 805
curly haired boy - SBS52's 
JeremyFr - Energy Take 5+1's
Spice003 - Polk Audio RtI A1, CSI A4, PSW303
Jimmy2Shoe - unknown
rush340 - no
mega_option101 - unknown
SilkRoad - Infinity Primus 150/PS210
[PWN]Schubie - 1337 5500s 
Binormalkilla - Polk Audio R50
Namrac - Yamaha A526
Grossebeaver - B&W CM9
drjoey1500 - Marantz HD550
FaLLeNAn9eL - unknown
H3||scr3am - AV123 XLS Encores, AV123 X-Sub
Corky dorkelson - Hafler TRM-6
MW041443 - Wharfdale Diamond 9.1
Eureka - M-Audio BX5a
Aura - Moth Audio Cicadas
S2kphile - Mackie MR5
Chipp - Sansui SP-3000, Polk Audio PSW10
ace8uk - KEF IQ1
The_Rocker - Monitor Audio BR2's 
Hoodcom - Cerwin-Vega! AT-8
Noname - Onix Reference 0.5
Soloz2 - Onix Reference 1 MKII
Jarble - Wharfdale Diamond 9.5
tUDJ - Wharfedale Diamond 9.1


----------



## NFF

the only notable speakers that i own is my sony mini system mhc-gx45 which the cd player is starting to die in.

my father has some of the old syle floor standers by technics which i cant remmeber the modle off and a pioneer reciver. the speakers are rated at 100w each.. and they are a 12' 5' and 2' in one.


----------



## soloz2

offtopic... but...

Received Photoshop CS4 Extended yesterday. I picked it up from an ebay seller with over 150 reps all positive who said they got stock from a going out of business sale. It was supposed to be brand new, sealed and genuine. 
I open it up and punch in the serial number, comes back as invalid. I call adobe only to hear the same thing. So I filed an ebay claim last night requesting a full refund. This morning I wake up to an offer of exactly 50% back. What a joke! Makes me think the guy had this planned all along...


----------



## .Sup

Ah that sucks Soloz, I know Photoshop editions are very pricey. Even 50% back is not much compared to what you paid. Hope you get full refund


----------



## jarble

can a mod please go through my post and see who needs to added to the club?


----------



## BugBash

Fully Active 2 way Speakers and 2 Active Subs

*Naim Audio NAC 92* Pre Amp
*miniDSP 2x4 * Active Crossovers (pair off)
*Naim Audio NAP 90.3* Power Amp - Left speaker crossed at 2 Khz
*Naim Audio NAP 90.3* Power Amp - Right speaker crossed at 2 Khz
*Naim Audio NAP 90.3* Power Amp - Subwoofers crossed at 55hz

*Pioneer CLD-515* Laserdisk Player (Audio PWNS DVD`s as its not compressed!)
*Yamaha DSP-E800* Dolby Digital Decoder (Olde School







)

Speakers 
*Focal JMLab 7W4411 * 7" Bass/mid Drivers








*ScanSpeak D2905-9000 * 1" HF Drivers








in Odd Pyramid shaped standmount boxes (Never seen them ANYWHERE ELSE!)
*Faraday Sound 8" Subwoofer * Concrete enclosure
*Eltax 10" Subwoofer * Plate amp bypassed (Naim instead!







)

The Clarity/Slam you get with an active system needs to be heard!
The Power amps are only 30 Watts a channel but each has only 1 drive unit to run

Its a shame I live in flat with 4 neighbours to complain if I crank it!

piccy of the MiniDSP`s


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BugBash* 
I havent listed my Audio setup as most of it is not setup for use....

But...

*Pioneer CLD-515* Laserdisk Player (Audio PWNS DVD`s to my ears!) in use








*Pioneer VSP-200* Dolby Pro-Logic Decoder (Olde School







) in use









*Naim Audio NAC 90/3* Pre Amp (boxed)








*Naim Audio NAP 90* Power Amp (boxed)








*Naim Audio NAP 90* Power Amp (boxed)









I have two power amps because I have a Bob Ellis Active filter KIT that one day I will build to run ACTIVE SPEAKERS!!!









Speakers (boxed)








*Focal JMLab 7W4411* 7" Bass/mid Drivers






















Unknown HF Units (Possibly Focal but doubt it!)
in Odd Pyramid shaped Boxes (Never seen them ANYWHERE ELSE!)

Qualifies as Audiophile but *not* if they are still in their shipping boxes!









I will update you on my list but I am still waiting on a mod to approve the list and add the people to the club


----------



## Chipp

Check the first post for accuracy - I revised it.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Check the first post for accuracy - I revised it.


you are great man


----------



## giecsar

Hello OCN speaker club members, I have a question for you if I may. So this is for all the audiophiles out there: what is THE BEST 5.1 speaker system?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *giecsar* 
Hello OCN speaker club members, I have a question for you if I may. So this is for all the audiophiles out there: what is THE BEST 5.1 speaker system?

No such thing.







"Best" is a relative question. Since I've got a small room, I couldnt have near as large a system as some folks have - while their setup might be technically far better, it is not the "best" for me.


----------



## Powderhound

Someone with a set of Logitech G51s has managed to sneak in.


----------



## giecsar

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Powderhound*


Someone with a set of Logitech G51s has managed to sneak in.










If you're referring to me, I find it a bad joke.


----------



## jarble

I have a proposition for the club. atm I find our club terms to be a bit harsh by saying we take only audiophiles we limit the the expansion and growth of the club and we also enforce the bad ideas that people have about audiophiles anyone can be an audiophile it just means that you love audio not that you have the cash to back up that love. I move that we add the sub standard speakers into the club in the corners like the headphone club.


----------



## biatchi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


I have a proposition for the club. atm I find our club terms to be a bit harsh by saying we take only audiophiles we limit the the expansion and growth of the club and we also enforce the bad ideas that people have about audiophiles anyone can be an audiophile it just means that you love audio not that you have the cash to back up that love. I move that we add the sub standard speakers into the club in the corners like the headphone club.


Labelling some users speakers as 'sub standard' doesn't help the whole audiophile reputation thing


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *biatchi*


Labelling some users speakers as 'sub standard' doesn't help the whole audiophile reputation thing










sub standard as "" in the op. my intent was was to help people not bash them


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


I have a proposition for the club....


I think it should say as it is. Maybe make a sister thread for PC speakers only?


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


I think it should say as it is. Maybe make a sister thread for PC speakers only?


well if we leave it as is we have to root out the member list. but either way is cool by me I was just tossing the idea out there


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:

.Sup - Wharfedale Modus 1, KRK Rokit, custom sub
[PWN]Schubie - 1337 5500s
ace8uk - KEF IQ1
airbozo - Alesis Point seven's, Genelec 2029 BL-Y
alexisd - Spekercraft AIM8 4
Aura - Moth Audio Cicadas
beanbagofdoom - Audioengine A2's
biatchi - Kef 103.2
Binormalkilla - Polk Audio R50
BugBash - custom speakers
Chipp - Sansui SP-3000, Polk Audio PSW10
Corky dorkelson - Hafler TRM-6
curly haired boy - SBS52's
Cyberspyder - DIY Zaph ZBM4
Darren9 - Monitor BR2's, Monitor BR1's
dasparx - Marantz PM7200 -> 4x JAMO Compact 90 ,B&O Beocenter 2100 -> Philips HI-FI 22R36V
drjoey1500 - Marantz HD550
Ecci-BANZAII!!! - Fisher F4/255 MKII
Eek - Swans M200MK II
Eureka - M-Audio BX5a
FaLLeNAn9eL - unknown
Grossebeaver - B&W CM9
H3||scr3am - AV123 XLS Encores, AV123 X-Sub
Hoodcom - Cerwin-Vega! AT-8
i_hax - Sansui AU-8500, Utah floorstanders, Pioneer SX-990, Yamaha NS-AW1
Jarble - Wharfdale Diamond 9.5
JeremyFr - Energy Take 5+1's
Jimmy2Shoe - unknown
JoeUbi - Definitive StudioMonitor 450s
lolhax - JBL CF-100s
Lozza - Tapco S8's
MagicBox - custom speakers 1x DSM25-FFL,2x DSM50-FFL, 2x TIW-360
mega_option101 - unknown
Mikecdm - B&W Nautilus 805
Mr Bear - RCA floor speakers, Polk Center channel, Bose dual cubes, Premier 12"
Mr_Pink57 - JBL S38II
MW041443 - Wharfdale Diamond 9.1
Namrac - Yamaha A526
NFF - mhc-gx45
Noname - Onix Reference 0.5
Parental Fornicator - Klipsch Promedia 2.1's
Powderhound - M-Audio AV40
S2kphile - Mackie MR5
silent_nightr34 - KRK Rp5's, RP10 sub
SilkRoad - Infinity Primus 150/PS210
Soloz2 - Onix Reference 1 MKII
sP00N - Cerwin Vega AT 10's, 400Watt Denmark
Spice003 - Polk Audio RtI A1, CSI A4, PSW303
thatsboot3101 - Kenwood VR-6050, Primus 250 towers
The_Rocker - Monitor Audio BR2's
thunder12 - yamaha?
timw4mail - Altec Lansing ADA-305
tofunater - Sony STR-K740P + JBL Control One's
tUDJ - Wharfedale Diamond 9.1
Turnoz - Celestion D 200, Stark Design SR-1
Vincent Vega - Klipsch Chorus II
vwgti - klipsch B-3, KSW-12
waqasr - Jamo studio 170
Waqasr - Jamo Studio 170
wtrskii3156 - 5.1 Definitive Technology Pro Cinema 60
xapno - 2 lanzar heritage subs, heresy IIs
Xeroni - Sony's ?
xguntherc - Bose Acoustimass 16 Series II
Zig-Zag - Boston BA635s
Done


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Done









well chimp slap me


----------



## biatchi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


sub standard as "" in the op. my intent was was to help people not bash them










Yeah I know just pointing out that some may possibly find it annoying/offensive tis all


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *biatchi*


Yeah I know just pointing out that some may possibly find it annoying/offensive tis all










its all cool


----------



## Xeroni

Well, I dug some speakers out of my uncle's garage a few months ago and just got around replacing the surrounds on the woofers. They're Pioneer CS-E9900s, I'm powering them with a Yamaha RX-V390. A lot better than the Z-5500s.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



.Sup - Wharfedale Modus 1, KRK Rokit, custom sub
ace8uk â€" KEF IQ1
airbozo - Alesis Point seven's, Genelec 2029 BL-Y
alexisd â€" Spekercraft AIM8 4
Aura - Moth Audio Cicadas
beanbagofdoom - Audioengine A2's
biatchi - Kef 103.2
Binormalkilla â€" Polk Audio R50
BugBash - custom speakers
Chipp â€" Sansui SP-3000, Polk Audio PSW10
Corky dorkelson â€" Hafler TRM-6
curly haired boy - SBS52's
Cyberspyder â€" DIY Zaph ZBM4
Darren9 - Monitor BR2's, Monitor BR1's
dasparx - Marantz PM7200 -> 4x JAMO Compact 90 ,B&O Beocenter 2100 -> Philips HI-FI 22R36V
drjoey1500 - Marantz HD550
Ecci-BANZAII!!! â€" Fisher F4/255 MKII
Eek - Swans M200MK II
Eureka â€" M-Audio BX5a
FaLLeNAn9eL - unknown
Grossebeaver â€" B&W CM9
H3||scr3am â€" AV123 XLS Encores, AV123 X-Sub
Hoodcom â€" Cerwin-Vega! AT-8
i_hax - Sansui AU-8500, Utah floorstanders, Pioneer SX-990, Yamaha NS-AW1
Jarble â€" Wharfdale Diamond 9.5
JeremyFr - Energy Take 5+1's
Jimmy2Shoe - unknown
JoeUbi - Definitive StudioMonitor 450s
lolhax - JBL CF-100s
Lozza - Tapco S8's
MagicBox - custom speakers 1x DSM25-FFL,2x DSM50-FFL, 2x TIW-360
mega_option101 - unknown
Mikecdm â€" B&W Nautilus 805
Mr Bear - RCA floor speakers, Polk Center channel, Bose dual cubes, Premier 12"
Mr_Pink57 â€" JBL S38II
MW041443 â€" Wharfdale Diamond 9.1
Namrac â€" Yamaha A526
NFF - mhc-gx45
Noname â€" Onix Reference 0.5
Parental Fornicator - Klipsch Promedia 2.1's
Powderhound - M-Audio AV40
S2kphile â€" Mackie MR5
silent_nightr34 - KRK Rp5's, RP10 sub
SilkRoad â€" Infinity Primus 150/PS210
Soloz2 â€" Onix Reference 1 MKII
sP00N - Cerwin Vega AT 10's, 400Watt Denmark
Spice003 â€" Polk Audio RtI A1, CSI A4, PSW303
thatsboot3101 - Kenwood VR-6050, Primus 250 towers
The_Rocker - Monitor Audio BR2's
thunder12 - yamaha?
tofunater - Sony STR-K740P + JBL Control One's
tUDJ â€" Wharfedale Diamond 9.1
Turnoz - Celestion D 200, Stark Design SR-1
Vincent Vega â€" Klipsch Chorus II
vwgti - klipsch B-3, KSW-12
waqasr - Jamo studio 170
Waqasr â€" Jamo Studio 170
wtrskii3156 - 5.1 Definitive Technology Pro Cinema 60
xapno - 2 lanzar heritage subs, heresy IIs
Xeroni - Pioneer CS-E9900s
xguntherc - Bose Acoustimass 16 Series II
Zig-Zag - Boston BA635s


updated with the member removal as per the rules and tUDJ suggestion







and Xeroni's speakers have been changed







.

disclaimer this is this is just my attempt to help the club being on or off "this" list dose not affect membership please check the 2nd post for membership


----------



## sonenelson

I have been following this thread for awhile and being an audiophile I agree with the current membership requirements. no sub par systems.

on that note, questions 
what is the best place to buy from? 
Newegg seems to have good deals but i have only done online shopping at newegg, amazon and now monoprice.

I have a 700w 5.1 Sony receiver and speakers. my problem is that no matter how I adjust the levels I can not get the vocals/center channel as loud as I want(mostly with blurays/optical in). I am looking for a new center speaker with very high sensitivity to try and improve this but i am also looking to upgrade my receiver, mostly because mine is silver and I want a black one but also because I cant turn down L/R front channels only fade and the center channels level at +10 is not enough.

If I take my 13.5" JL W7 and Xtant 1001 amp out of my car and take a picture of it connected to my home theater does that qualify me for membership?

More then 2 questions I know...Thanks

EDIT: If this club was full of sub par system owners I would not be able to have the same conversations as i could with experienced audiophiles that own high end systems and i think qualified audiophiles would frequent this thread less often.

Edit 2: I still live an apartment so all my audiophile-ness goes into my cars... but I can't help it i want in... I could spend a couple hundred on some new front channel speakers something a little better then the polks on newegg and upgrade my receiver later. Suggestions/Anyone seen a killer deal websurfing?


----------



## H3||scr3am

AV123 has a bunch of great deals on B-Stock speakers, take these for instance:
http://www.av123.com//index.php?page...mart&Itemid=37


----------



## tagurtoast

i built my sound sys piece by piece that i found and put in it ( youdont even want to goo look in my garage at the pile of Not up to standard speakers that didnt get in
technics su-z1 amp
sony sa-w10g sub
lg lhs-cx247w sub
kenwood mini hifi speakers
lg lhs-cx247t speakers
2 12 inch speaker boxes with 50w woofers and 2 tweeters and a mid range


----------



## mastertrixter

boston 2.1 system for light use. fisher towers with pioneer surrounds with a marantz sub through a onkyo reciever for louder fun.


----------



## mfb412

Logitech X-540 5.1 on pc

Schneider 5.1 system on room, and my parent's STRONG system is currently at my brothers (6 sony 50w satellites, 2x pioneer audio subs, yamaha amp, pioneer receiver)


----------



## Deagle50ae

Hey guys!
It's good to some some audio enthusiasts on the site!

I'm running a pair of floor standing, mtm, transmission line speakers designed by Curt C. called the Tritrix.

They incorporate Dayton Classic series drivers.

It's all home brewed from the enclosures to the crossovers.
Uses 1" MDF throughout.

They're powered by an old 90's Sony ES series (flaghip model) surround receiver I snagged for free on Craigslist.

Low end is picked up by a 12" JBL studio subwoofer

Sounds great in my little room.


























Thanks!
-Josh


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Deagle50ae* 
It's all home brewed from the enclosures to the crossovers.

Nice work, what was the total cost?


----------



## benfica101

Add me i own Logitech Z-5500D THX 5.1 Speakers


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *benfica101* 
Add me i own Logitech Z-5500D THX 5.1 Speakers

No PC speakers I'm afraid, criteria for entry are in the first post.


----------



## Deagle50ae

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Nice work, what was the total cost?

Total cost with speaker spikes, grill cloth, primer, crossover components, EVERYTHING
Under $250

Drivers, terminals, and crossover parts are $160

Spikes, cap magnets, hardware, acoustically transparent grille cloth, primer, wood glue, sand paper, etc makes up the rest.

The 1" MDF was free. I work in an office furniture factory... boxes were all CNC cut

They still need to be finished asthetically.
I'm going to wrap them 360 degrees in grill material and make piano black caps and bases. Def Tech style.

I love the nice big soundstage from the wide open backs. Reminds me of the Def Tech BP10's I used to have.
The bass is tight and punchy and because of how hefty the boxes are; one FEELS quite a lot of the punch through the floor.
Female vocals are a litttle bit bright directly on-axis, so I toe them out about 10 degree each and it's all well great.


----------



## jarble

new members to be added to the list

tagurtoast - custom speakers
mfb412 - Schneider 5.1
mastertrixter - boston 2.1,fisher towers
Deagle50ae - custom speakers


----------



## Le_Loup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Primary Post*

2) Membership and parameters:

Membership is site-wide, but limited insofar as to the particular sort of gear a member is running in his audio setup.

With a few other select members, we briefly discussed any limitations or parameters needed to be set on acceptance into the club. We did this because certain brands, names, sorts are simply not up to standards with what is consistently deemed as quality across the entire hobby of audio. The issue is, of course, that a brand such as Logitech, which is truly not a quality product as far as speakers go, has reached a niche market in the pc-enthusiast world and maintains popularity in it. I personally feel that someone truly engaged and interested in speakers will have moved beyond Logitech, etc., at a certain point or is considering doing so eventually. As such, we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters.

Yes, this may stir up some controversy, but for now these are the parameters. Thanks for your cooperation and understanding.

Question, before I post mine / want to join, I consider my Z-5500's a decent system, as they accept coax digital, optical digital, analog, and I can interface with an amp if needed or not, plus I can switch inputs like most amps, from my shaw pvr, xbox360, alternate source and analog pc arrangement. Most speaker/amp systems do equally the same, and i'd like to be added in, i'll get pic's (will get small but location based pic's so I can better effect a good pic shot for the thread).

Can I be allowed to enter in, presuming with the above concepts true to the fact that it equals that of a standard speaker system, but compact?

- Le_Loup


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Le_Loup*


Question, before I post mine / want to join, I consider my Z-5500's a decent system, as they accept coax digital, optical digital, analog, and I can interface with an amp if needed or not, plus I can switch inputs like most amps, from my shaw pvr, xbox360, alternate source and analog pc arrangement. Most speaker/amp systems do equally the same, and i'd like to be added in, i'll get pic's (will get small but location based pic's so I can better effect a good pic shot for the thread).

Can I be allowed to enter in, presuming with the above concepts true to the fact that it equals that of a standard speaker system, but compact?

- Le_Loup


unless my petition is passed (and a I doubt that it will be) any logitech speaker is considered to be non audiophile.


----------



## Le_Loup

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


unless my petition is passed (and a I doubt that it will be) any logitech speaker is considered to be non audiophile.


I will differe that it is easily pro audiophille, as I have hd500 sennheiser headphones, and tweak both variating settings in the z-5500's options, and the equalizer on my laptop regardless if I do integrated, analog or digital with my sb x-fi xpress card, etc.

The sound is phenominal and anyone who is an audiophille would have to listen to my setup to understand how it can sound, and I mean it, like a $1000 system.

** Where's your petition? I'll sign on 110% **

- Le_Loup


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Le_Loup*


I will differe that it is easily pro audiophille, as I have hd500 sennheiser headphones, and tweak both variating settings in the z-5500's options, and the equalizer on my laptop regardless if I do integrated, analog or digital with my sb x-fi xpress card, etc.

The sound is phenominal and anyone who is an audiophille would have to listen to my setup to understand how it can sound, and I mean it, like a $1000 system.

** Where's your petition? I'll sign on 110% **

- Le_Loup


here is what I posted earlier

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


I have a proposition for the club. atm I find our club terms to be a bit harsh by saying we take only audiophiles we limit the the expansion and growth of the club and we also enforce the bad ideas that people have about audiophiles anyone can be an audiophile it just means that you love audio not that you have the cash to back up that love. I move that we add the sub standard speakers into the club in the corners like the headphone club.


----------



## Le_Loup

*Seconded

*

*Quote:*


Originally Posted by *Jarble* 
I have a proposition for the club. atm I find our club terms to be a bit harsh by saying we take only audiophiles we limit the the expansion and growth of the club and we also enforce the bad ideas that people have about audiophiles anyone can be an audiophile it just means that you love audio not that you have the cash to back up that love. I move that we add the sub standard speakers into the club in the corners like the headphone club.


----------



## Chipp

I find myself in agreement with jarble's proposition. I hate the elitist attitudes surrounding audio, and further propagating that by only allowing people who own a certain class of gear to declare themselves as having an active interest in speakers seems like it does not serve the communities best interest. (But read that without looking at the badge under my name - I'm just a casual observer here)


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


I find myself in agreement with jarble's proposition. I hate the elitist attitudes surrounding audio, and further propagating that by only allowing people who own a certain class of gear to declare themselves as having an active interest in speakers seems like it does not serve the communities best interest. (But read that without looking at the badge under my name - I'm just a casual observer here)


thanks









also we need to add these people to the member list
tagurtoast - custom speakers
mfb412 - Schneider 5.1
mastertrixter - boston 2.1,fisher towers 
Deagle50ae - custom speakers

and you have a pm


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Le_Loup* 
I will differe that it is easily pro audiophille, as I have hd500 sennheiser headphones, and tweak both variating settings in the z-5500's options, and the equalizer on my laptop regardless if I do integrated, analog or digital with my sb x-fi xpress card, etc.

The sound is phenominal and anyone who is an audiophille would have to listen to my setup to understand how it can sound, and I mean it, like a $1000 system.

** Where's your petition? I'll sign on 110% **

- Le_Loup

I disagree, z5500's are no more than an expensive one box solution. I grant they are compact, but I will never concerd that they sound just as good as a pair of speakers costing 2x the price (unless you got jipped)

I have owned a pair. I purchased after reading rave reviews thinking they could satisfy as a computer system and they couldn't.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
I find myself in agreement with jarble's proposition. I hate the elitist attitudes surrounding audio, and further propagating that by only allowing people who own a certain class of gear to declare themselves as having an active interest in speakers seems like it does not serve the communities best interest. (But read that without looking at the badge under my name - I'm just a casual observer here)


Not trying to be elitest, just trying to get people to throw off preconceived notions and listen for themselves. About 3 days ago someone said they got some old speakers and a receiver from a family member that blew their z5500 away. No one has to spend a small fortune, just be smart. That's what were about here.
Don't get z5500, get a pair of bookshelf speakers and a t-amp. Av123 elt525m or psb alpha b's and you're likely saving money and getting better sound quality all at once.


----------



## TUDJ

I'm leaning towards agreeing with Jarble, I think allowing PC speakers could be a good thing, as with the Headphone Club allowing gaming headphones, it promotes the discussion of headphones in general (as there are more people).

Alot of people go in there and ask which headphones they should be buying, I think alot of people have had some great advice from that thread and have ended up with HD555/AD700 etc instead of an IceMat Sibera or Creative Fatality.

The same could happen with this thread - if we are all about helping people getting more for their money and sharing what we know, then we can advise people to get a nice pair of standmounts and a decent amp and help them start a great system.

On the other hand, opening the club up to everyone might drive some members away, but at the moment - this thread isn't as active as I'd like to see it.

My









btw, I'm still on the fence


----------



## Villainstone

Well I was hoping that I could join the club. I took a few pictures of what I have to work with. I spent a grand total of 1100.00 on the whole system which has a Yamaha RX-661 at it's source. I bought it NIB from ebay a couple years ago, along with the Polk Audio Monitor 50 for just over 600.00 at the time. For the rear speaker I wanted to keep it the same so I bought (not really) Polk OWN3. I say not really because I acquired them from Circuit City when they went out of business. I had them under my cart because the cart was filled with games, mouse & KB, vacuum cleaner, and a few other things. I accidentally forgot about them under there and walked out of the store with them LOL. I didn't even realize it until I was loading up the car and seen them there.. lucky me(saved myself 220.00).

I made my own sub-woofer but it was never finished. I actually don't remember what model sub woofer it is but it sure does pound, and every one of neighbors hate the damn thing LOL. I have it tuned to 23hz, and is powered by a 250w RMS PE amp. I noticed for the first time today that my son put a very small dent in the dome. It is made of aluminum and I never added a grill as I should have, live and learn right. Eventually I plan to veneer the sub, and use a steel grill with cloth underlay. I am very undecided on the color of the veneer, but black will mostly be the choice.

I am still in the market for a good center speaker as the one I have is beyond terrible. On the other hand it is better than nothing, and does the trick well enough for us for now.


----------



## sonenelson

opening the club up to everyone with bargain/value pc speakers and no intent to upgrade will drive people away and fill the thread with all the "what pc speakers should i get for $100" type of questions. I suggest instead changing the opening post so that even none club members feel they can ask for advice on what to get instead of a logitech type box sets made for pc gaming. yes they sound good for $200-300, and you do get what you pay for with them but not more. people probably aren't going to contribute much if that's all they have.

Just because they are not "on the list" doesn't mean they can't still ask questions

Edit: took me a week but I have now read every post in this thread


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I disagree, z5500's are no more than an expensive one box solution. I grant they are compact, but I will never concerd that they sound just as good as a pair of speakers costing 2x the price (unless you got jipped)

I have owned a pair. I purchased after reading rave reviews thinking they could satisfy as a computer system and they couldn't.

Not trying to be elitest, just trying to get people to throw off preconceived notions and listen for themselves. About 3 days ago someone said they got some old speakers and a receiver from a family member that blew their z5500 away. No one has to spend a small fortune, just be smart. That's what were about here.
Don't get z5500, get a pair of bookshelf speakers and a t-amp. Av123 elt525m or psb alpha b's and you're likely saving money and getting better sound quality all at once.

I understand your view point entirely but as it stands we are not helping people its just your not good enough go away I know that is not our intention but that is how I think we are coming across.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I'm leaning towards agreeing with Jarble, I think allowing PC speakers could be a good thing, as with the Headphone Club allowing gaming headphones, it promotes the discussion of headphones in general (as there are more people).

Alot of people go in there and ask which headphones they should be buying, I think alot of people have had some great advice from that thread and have ended up with HD555/AD700 etc instead of an IceMat Sibera or Creative Fatality.

The same could happen with this thread - if we are all about helping people getting more for their money and sharing what we know, then we can advise people to get a nice pair of standmounts and a decent amp and help them start a great system.

On the other hand, opening the club up to everyone might drive some members away, but at the moment - this thread isn't as active as I'd like to see it.

My









btw, I'm still on the fence









dead on









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Villainstone* 
Well I was hoping that I could join the club. I took a few pictures of what I have to work with. I spent a grand total of 1100.00 on the whole system which has a Yamaha RX-661 at it's source. I bought it NIB from ebay a couple years ago, along with the Polk Audio Monitor 50 for just over 600.00 at the time. For the rear speaker I wanted to keep it the same so I bought (not really) Polk OWN3. I say not really because I acquired them from Circuit City when they went out of business. I had them under my cart because the cart was filled with games, mouse & KB, vacuum cleaner, and a few other things. I accidentally forgot about them under there and walked out of the store with them LOL. I didn't even realize it until I was loading up the car and seen them there.. lucky me(saved myself 220.00).

I made my own sub-woofer but it was never finished. I actually don't remember what model sub woofer it is but it sure does pound, and every one of neighbors hate the damn thing LOL. I have it tuned to 23hz, and is powered by a 250w RMS PE amp. I noticed for the first time today that my son put a very small dent in the dome. It is made of aluminum and I never added a grill as I should have, live and learn right. Eventually I plan to veneer the sub, and use a steel grill with cloth underlay. I am very undecided on the color of the veneer, but black will mostly be the choice.

I am still in the market for a good center speaker as the one I have is beyond terrible. On the other hand it is better than nothing, and does the trick well enough for us for now.

if you don't mind Ill add you to my list as polk 5.1?


----------



## Le_Loup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
I understand your view point entirely but as it stands we are not helping people its just your not good enough go away I know that is not our intention but that is how I think we are coming across.

dead on









if you don't mind Ill add you to my list as polk 5.1?

Agreed, and There are still some decent speakers that pc speakers can out beat, i've tried various material, movies, blueray, music, records... (yes the old flat black things that spin in circles much slower then cd's or dvd's), And even my speakers on their own do amazing. I am an audiophile, as I do have so much variety of music, and if I had the hd space, (almost do...) i'd re rip to flac only for even better quality. And i'd sooner use the z-5500's over a $1000 system because they equal it in quality (for the most part) While some 2,000$ systems are better, but un reachable as somepeople can NOT get the *elitest....* gear due to the recession...

- Le_Loup


----------



## soloz2

A lot of people in the headphone club aren't exactly happy about gaming headphones. And the decision was made from day one not to allow 'pc' speakers so I don't see that changing anytime soon.

But from the comments here I think there maybe should be a z5500 club or something like that.
I'd take a t-amp and elt252m any day over z5500. The logitechs will play louder and hit harder due to having a sub, but overall sound quality can't even think about competing. Again, if z5500 sound better than a $1k system (even surround sound when you can get a 5.0 elt525 system from av123 for $800....) you got ripped off.


----------



## sonenelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
A lot of people in the headphone club aren't exactly happy about gaming headphones. And the decision was made from day one not to allow 'pc' speakers so I don't see that changing anytime soon.

But from the comments here I think there maybe should be a z5500 club or something like that.
I'd take a t-amp and elt252m any day over z5500. The logitechs will play louder and hit harder due to having a sub, but overall sound quality can't even think about competing. Again, if z5500 sound better than a $1k system (even surround sound when you can get a 5.0 elt525 system from av123 for $800....) you got ripped off.

"seconded" LOL

It would be great if someone would put there foot down and squash this the last three days have been 90% "we should allow pc speakers...BLA BLA BLA" It would be even greater if we could move on and continue with HIFI discussions.

So many people have the logitech Z5500's and z2300's that there should be a separate logitech group/thread for them. any 'real' audiophiles can still participate in discussions here, whether they are on the list or not. the member list is a reference for HIFI systems so people can see what others are using, the list does not need 50 logitech Z's cluttering it. I make a motion that we change the thread title to something like "OCN HIFI Speaker Club" and some one makes a separate thread for value box systems.

If you are using a 250$ dollar system and truly believe it sounds better then a $1000 system, you either, aren't a real audiophile, don't know what your talking about or don't know how to spend your money and often get ripped off.

"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt." -Abraham Lincoln

Edit: I own a set of Logitech Z-2300 THX's, I bought them for $85 new to use when my pc was too far away from my home theater system, but I don't think they belong in the discusions here.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sonenelson* 
"seconded" LOL

It would be great if someone would put there foot down and squash this the last three days have been 90% "we should allow pc speakers...BLA BLA BLA" It would be even greater if we could move on and continue with HIFI discussions.

So many people have the logitech Z5500's and z2300's that there should be a separate logitech group/thread for them. any 'real' audiophiles can still participate in discussions here, whether they are on the list or not. the member list is a reference for HIFI systems so people can see what others are using, the list does not need 50 logitech Z's cluttering it. I make a motion that we change the thread title to something like "OCN HIFI Speaker Club" and some one makes a separate thread for value box systems.

If you are using a 250$ dollar system and truly believe it sounds better then a $1000 system, you either, aren't a real audiophile, don't know what your talking about or don't know how to spend your money and often get ripped off.

â€œBetter to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt." -Abraham Lincoln

Edit: I own a set of Logitech Z-2300 THX's, I bought them for $85 new to use when my pc was too far away from my home theater system, but I don't think they belong in the discusions here.

hey man that hurt









and the last 3 days have been some of the most active in months









and please remember it was just a idea up for friendly discussion


----------



## pez

Got these speakers for $50. I had to replace the orange surrounds and now they are heaven to me. Too bad when I go to college this fall, I can't take them with me







.

Cerwin-Vega D-3's:


----------



## jarble

to be added list









tagurtoast - custom speakers
mfb412 - Schneider 5.1
mastertrixter - boston 2.1,fisher towers
Deagle50ae - custom speakers
Villainstone - polk 5.1
pez - Cerwin-Vega D-3's


----------



## Deagle50ae

okay.
I'm not an elitist
I understand the whole no logitech argument
but at the same time, you just allowed a guy (pez) in with a pair of speakers powered by a freakin plastic boom-box. We all know those dang bookshelf systems use garbage for amplification.

The line is hard to draw.

It seems we'll take anything then as long as it didnt all come in one box...

not saying it should go one way or the other, but bringing it to attention is all.

Pez:

LOVE the DIY headphone stand








is that just a regular altoids box??? Or am I seeing a diy headphone amp?


----------



## sonenelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Deagle50ae* 
okay.
I'm not an elitist
I understand the whole no logitech argument
but at the same time, you just allowed a guy (pez) in with a pair of speakers powered by a freakin plastic boom-box. We all know those dang bookshelf systems use garbage for amplification.

The line is hard to draw.

It seems we'll take anything then as long as it didnt all come in one box...

not saying it should go one way or the other, but bringing it to attention is all.

Pez:

LOVE the DIY headphone stand








is that just a regular altoids box??? Or am I seeing a diy headphone amp?

Looks like a lego stand to me...?

I agree the line is hard to draw, we should have a judge and jury to make the final call, but that may be a little too complicated.
I also think there are a lot of sub par but none 'pc speaker' systems on the list but making the best out of what you have is a step in the right direction and shows one's intent to be the best audiophile he/she can be. and that 'should' result in a better HIFI speaker community.

@Jarble.... It would appear however, you are the current judge and jury.

Here is what I'm working with.









receiver - Sony 600W str-k850p +100W Sony sub
center - 2x infinity 9602i's in series.
F-RL - Sony ss-msp95's
R-RL - Sony ss-msp95's
sub - Sony sawmsp85 powered 100w 10"

Infinity reference 9602i's
Power Handling, RMS100 Watts
Power Handling, Peak300 Watts
Sensitivity92dB
Frequency Response (Â±3dB)46Hz - 21kHz
Impedance4 Ohms

I have tried 2channel, 1 infinity speaker for center, but like the way my receiver outputs the vocals/center channel in 5.1 the most, yes the infinity's in series do blow the rest of the system away, I can tell the biggest surround sound difference in gaming, but I still like the 5.1 setup for ambiance.

I would think if audioengine A2's and other "old school/custom" systems qualify mine would too.

I am currently in the design phase for a new set of tower's. I have found the following sources and software to be helpful... does anyone know of other useful resources/software/freeware for designing/planning custom speakers...

http://www.linearteam.dk/
http://www.gr-research.com/index.asp...ATS&Category=2
http://www.parts-express.com/project...ojectindex.cfm
winisd.exe beta
BassBox Pro v6.0.18 / X-Over 3 Pro

I also have a separate thread going on my custom build plans... http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...-hi-fi-ht.html


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sonenelson* 
Looks like a lego stand to me...?

I agree the line is hard to draw, we should have a judge and jury to make the final call, but that may be a little too complicated.
I also think there are a lot of sub par but none 'pc speaker' systems on the list but making the best out of what you have is a step in the right direction and shows one's intent to be the best audiophile he/she can be. and that 'should' result in a better HIFI speaker community.

*@Jarble.... It would appear however, you are the current judge and jury.*

Here is what I'm working with.









receiver - Sony 600W str-k850p +100W Sony sub
center - 2x infinity 9602i's in series.
F-RL - Sony ss-msp95's
R-RL - Sony ss-msp95's
sub - Sony sawmsp85 powered 100w 10"

Infinity reference 9602i's
Power Handling, RMS100 Watts
Power Handling, Peak300 Watts
Sensitivity92dB
Frequency Response (Â±3dB)46Hz - 21kHz
Impedance4 Ohms

I have tried 2channel, 1 infinity speaker for center, but like the way my receiver outputs the vocals/center channel in 5.1 the most, yes the infinity's in series do blow the rest of the system away, I can tell the biggest surround sound difference in gaming, but I still like the 5.1 setup for ambiance.

I would think if audioengine A2's and other "old school/custom" systems qualify mine would too.

I am currently in the design phase for a new set of tower's. I have found the following sources and software to be helpful... does anyone know of other useful resources/software/freeware for designing/planning custom speakers...

http://www.linearteam.dk/
http://www.gr-research.com/index.asp...ATS&Category=2
http://www.parts-express.com/project...ojectindex.cfm
winisd.exe beta
BassBox Pro v6.0.18 / X-Over 3 Pro

I also have a separate thread going on my custom build plans... http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...-hi-fi-ht.html

while I have personally taken up the member list the judge and jury are the mods as they must change the member post. with that said I will add you to my list as modified sony 5.1









to be added list

tagurtoast - custom speakers
mfb412 - Schneider 5.1
mastertrixter - boston 2.1,fisher towers
Deagle50ae - custom speakers
Villainstone - polk 5.1
pez - Cerwin-Vega D-3's
sonenelson - modified sony 5.1


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Deagle50ae* 
okay.
I'm not an elitist
I understand the whole no logitech argument
but at the same time, you just allowed a guy (pez) in with a pair of speakers powered by a freakin plastic boom-box. We all know those dang bookshelf systems use garbage for amplification.

The line is hard to draw.

It seems we'll take anything then as long as it didnt all come in one box...

not saying it should go one way or the other, but bringing it to attention is all.

Pez:

LOVE the DIY headphone stand








is that just a regular altoids box??? Or am I seeing a diy headphone amp?

Actually I'm a member of a headphone forum and bought it off of a member. I didn't make it but it's a cMoy. The thing is basically a reciever with built in CD Player/Radio/Tape function. But it puts out more wattage than the speakers are capable of and get's plenty loud. Only reason I haven't upgrade is because I've failed to find just a simple solution for sound card>amp>speakers.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sonenelson* 
Looks like a lego stand to me...?

I agree the line is hard to draw, we should have a judge and jury to make the final call, but that may be a little too complicated.
I also think there are a lot of sub par but none 'pc speaker' systems on the list but making the best out of what you have is a step in the right direction and shows one's intent to be the best audiophile he/she can be. and that 'should' result in a better HIFI speaker community.

And I love my LEGO headphone stand







. I'll never let my LEGOs go. Nevah!


----------



## sonenelson

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pez* 
Got these speakers for $50. I had to replace the orange surrounds and now they are heaven to me. Too bad when I go to college this fall, I can't take them with me







.

Cerwin-Vega D-3's:










I knew I recognized LEGO's when I saw them... you need more of those flat peices to cover up the bumps then you can glue it all together and no-one will ever know what it is made of.

why can't you take those to college? they would be perfect next to your desk to increase surface area for books and stuff.


----------



## pez

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sonenelson* 
I knew I recognized LEGO's when I saw them... you need more of those flat peices to cover up the bumps then you can glue it all together and no-one will ever know what it is made of.

why can't you take those to college? they would be perfect next to your desk to increase surface area for books and stuff.

because the dorm room has two people per room and is no where near big enough for it really.


----------



## cyberspyder

Cello Amps
Wadia 270 transport
Wailson Audio Tiny Tot (WATT)


----------



## Deagle50ae

Quote:


Originally Posted by *cyberspyder* 









Cello Amps
Wadia 270 transport
Wailson Audio Tiny Tot (WATT)


GOOOO!

also... I don't see a PC in there...


----------



## i_hax

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
I find myself in agreement with jarble's proposition. I hate the elitist attitudes surrounding audio, and further propagating that by only allowing people who own a certain class of gear to declare themselves as having an active interest in speakers seems like it does not serve the communities best interest. (But read that without looking at the badge under my name - I'm just a casual observer here)

I disagree.

As said by Soloz, you don't have to spend a fortune (in my case, *nothing*) to have a system that far surpasses any one-box solution.

If you allow basic computer speakers it (yes, Z-5500's are basic computer speakers IMO) completely ruins the meaning of the speaker club, because it would nearly allow anyone on the site to join the club. It would be like having a tuner car club with members owning Honda Accords...

I don't think I'm alone when I say - I don't read this thread for "add me I have Z-5500 THX DIGITAL speakers".

(this coming from an outside view, as I'm not even a member - I've posted my setup but never bothered to take pictures)

EDIT: Ugh they (Logitech) rate them @ 10%THD... driven that hard wouldn't it be considered clipping? I'm sure it would be audible...


----------



## cyberspyder

There's a passive HPTC in one of those stacks.


----------



## Aura

Apologies for my absence the past few days folks, work + mini-trip = absolutely no time for checking up on things at all.

One notable change will be occurring within the next few days, along with a re-clarification of membership parameters.

I will say for the time being that this club's guidelines were developed with the absolute best of intentions. No, we are not being elitist. It is quite the contrary; the basic idea behind "blocking" your basic pc-oriented speakers was to simply encourage members to explore higher levels of quality, and you can be 100% assured that there are better options on there for slightly more money (Logitech Z5500 vs. AV123 entry-level is the finest example of this). You do not need to be a member to explore this thread's discussion, which means the knowledge of exactly what can be defined as "higher fidelity" is not some hidden secret exclusive to OCNSC members alone.

Thanks for your patience gents.


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
thank you for the clarification I will not bring it up again sorry if my post was counter productive.

also did you get my pm?

No problem at all, if discussion needs to take place over the parameters, then that's just what we are going to do







.

I have received your message, I will follow up for you as soon as possible.


----------



## i_hax

After my last post I figured I should actually join and show what you can possibly get for *FREE* if you search around (and get lucky over the past 4-5 years). Far surpassing any 'computer speakers' and many HTIB... I know I'm a rare exception, but I'm sure you could do rather well spending far less than a set of Z-5500's cost.

Sansui AU-8500, found while working at an electronics recycling plant.
~60lbs. 0.1%THD, 65WPC @ 8ohms, 100WPC @ 4ohms, both channels driven.

















Pioneer SX-990, 27WPC. Pioneer PD-5700 for cd's









Utah floorstanders.









Binding posts (if you can call it that







)









Computer setup









*the Utah's* If someone can help me with model/year that would be great; I have NO clue. I got them from my dad, they are about the same vintage as the SX-990... They are 3-way: 8" bass driver, 4" midrange and tweeter. Non-removable grills. The missing label only read "acoustic suspension system". No idea what the rheostat does (nor any audible change).


----------



## drjoey1500

I agree with i_hax you can just get lucky sometimes. Most of my audio system (and my computer














) I got for free. Just ppl getting rid of their old systems. The only stuff I bought for my current speaker setup was some gasket tape, polyester batting, some foam, and speaker wire.

I eventually fixed up my speakers, just haven't gotten pics yet. Bought some green foam at joanns for the vari-q things, and some polyester batting for the cabnets. btw polyfill (the loose stuff, not what I used in cabinets) is really cheap there, i got the smallest one (12oz) for like $3. I think the 32oz is like $6. put some in the mid cabnets and a whole bag in my car doors







.

As for the computer speaker thing, most of the Z**00 owners would just register and then leave. In the HC most of the gaming headphone people don't talk or anything. Generally the people who talk the most have better systems. Besides, there's not a whole lot to do to pc speakers as far as upgrades/tweaks. I guess i'm kind of late in saying that. *shrug*


----------



## noname

Quote:



*Huge Savings on the ELT525 Monitors*
*Weekly Insider Specials* *05/25/2009*

A Window On Our Musical World

One of the really great joys I have here at av123 is being a large part of the process of creating these wonderful â€œmusical instrumentsâ€. Our ELT 525 Monitor is really a jewel beyond compare. I love the way this loudspeaker makes music â€" and I would urge you (if you havenâ€™t already done so) to read part of my description of this speaker (as juxtaposed to others we make) on this pageâ€¦
<img alt="elt525" width="250" align="right" height="250"> 
Of course â€" I managed to order way too many in Cherry â€" and probably not enough in Rosewood. My mistake is about to be â€œhappiness foundâ€ for many of youâ€¦ This is a wonderful 1-time opportunity to enjoy the music - at a give-away priceâ€¦

*ELT 525 Monitorâ€™s in Cherry at $175 dollars per pair â€" Delivered CONUSâ€¦ *

Later this year we will have two nifty subs that can mate nicely with these â€" as well as an Integrated Amp thatâ€™s bound to make you smile (for many reasons)â€¦ Now is the time to buy some â€œjoyâ€ and purchase a set of these lovely speakers at a wonderful priceâ€¦

We love these little beauties â€" and we know you will tooâ€¦

Get to know us by our beautiful friendsâ€¦ and Iâ€™ll gladly let these lovelies speak for me any day of the week â€" day or nightâ€¦ They are specialâ€¦ (and the price ainâ€™t bad either)â€¦

Wishing you all the very best.

*Mark L. Schifter â€" President â€" av123*


http://www.av123.com//index.php?page...hk=1&Itemid=37

Damn that's a good deal.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


Damn that's a good deal.


Where've you been hiding?









And that is a great deal, I'm semi tempted to get a pair shipped over here


----------



## jarble

updated

to be added list

tagurtoast - custom speakers
mfb412 - Schneider 5.1
mastertrixter - boston 2.1,fisher towers 
Deagle50ae - custom speakers 
Villainstone - polk 5.1
pez - Cerwin-Vega D-3's 
sonenelson - modified sony 5.1
cyberspyder - Wadia 270 transport
i_hax - Utah floorstanders


----------



## Chipp

jarble, you should now have control of the membership post, sir.


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
jarble, you should now have control of the membership post, sir.

This was the change I was alluding to a few days back. Keep up the good work Jarble







.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
This was the change I was alluding to a few days back. Keep up the good work Jarble







.

That, and we have a specific hi-fi sub forum to discuss higher end gear


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
That, and we have a specific hi-fi sub forum to discuss higher end gear


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Where've you been hiding?









And that is a great deal, I'm semi tempted to get a pair shipped over here


I've been MIA- but im back now


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


jarble, you should now have control of the membership post, sir.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aura*


This was the change I was alluding to a few days back. Keep up the good work Jarble







.


thanks guys









edit member list has been updated please check to make sure you have your correct speakers


----------



## Villainstone

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
if you don't mind Ill add you to my list as polk 5.1?

Cool but you need to change it in a few months to 7.1 LOL.

Still what is a really good sub 100.00 dollar center speaker in the Polk line?


----------



## phospholipid

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ele/1191717755.html

what do you guys think?
its for my buddy, who will use it for vanilla speakers/denon vinyl player/tv


----------



## Chipp

Damn - nice deal if he's into vintage gear. could he probably get a cleaner modern amp for that price? I think so. But for raw "cool" value I'd get the HK no question.


----------



## phospholipid

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Damn - nice deal if he's into vintage gear. could he probably get a cleaner modern amp for that price? I think so. But for raw "cool" value I'd get the HK no question.

what do you mean "cleaner" modern amp?
what amp would you suggest for the same price, or less?
and for 200$ for speakers, what 2.0 speakers would you recommend?

ty ty


----------



## sonenelson

for 2.0 speakers under $200 my research and others suggestions have lead to believe the av123 el525 mini monitors are the best.

http://www.av123.com/index.php?optio...d=51&Itemid=37

and for the amp I think any used modern a/v receiver/amp would have better sound. lower THD, better options and features, probably better power efficiency too. 
But that one does have the very cool vintage factor which I think the seller knows and has priced it likewise.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phospholipid*


what do you mean "cleaner" modern amp?
what amp would you suggest for the same price, or less?
and for 200$ for speakers, what 2.0 speakers would you recommend?

ty ty


Cleaner - lower THD. In other words, the amp accomplishes its job without as large a negative effect on the signal being amplified. Looking at Harmon's spec sheets, THD on the 430 is anywhere from .3% to .7% depending on load. That is not bad at all, but even many modern power amps popular in the home theater circuit have average THD figures in the .0xx% range. (Specific sub-$200 example, the Behringer A500). The 430 is still a good deal though, especially if he is starting from scratch and does not have other gear to use as preamps etc.


----------



## phospholipid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Cleaner - lower THD. In other words, the amp accomplishes its job without as large a negative effect on the signal being amplified. Looking at Harmon's spec sheets, THD on the 430 is anywhere from .3% to .7% depending on load. That is not bad at all, but even many modern power amps popular in the home theater circuit have average THD figures in the .0xx% range. (Specific sub-$200 example, the Behringer A500). The 430 is still a good deal though, especially if he is starting from scratch and does not have other gear to use as preamps etc.



hrm thats definitely something to consider.
how about this:

my friend basically wants a 2.0 or above setup to listen to cds, ipod [with custom LOD i gave him







] running ALAC, and his denon vinyl player. keeping it on the simple side [no custom cables], for *400$, what is a decent A/V reciever and 2.0 speaker combo?* HTIB works too, cause he wouldn't mind 5.1 surround sound. prefers new, brand's not an issue.

[email protected]\\!


----------



## jarble

just got may dads bday gift diamond 8.3's and I have started burning them in / checking for defects before his bday this Sunday as I have heard that the Kevlar drivers take time before the bass comes to fruition. now for some pics of the insane (temporary) set up in my small room









ps ignore the old dell I am removing virus's for a friend


----------



## sonenelson

I'm trying to decide between to receivers and can not find the answer to this question about THD through google or wiki.

Theoretically 
If I have two amps 1 rated at 110wpc the 2nd at 130wpc and both are rated at the same .09% THD(or whatever THD%)
is there less THD if I use less power say, 65wpc. would this then make the 130wpc amp sound better using less then 50% it's rated power as opposed the the 110wpc amp using 50% it's power?

I know 110 and 130wpc is not a big difference, they just happen to be the actual ratings of the receivers I'm looking at and I can't find out if THD is constant over the power range or if it is directly related to the amount of power used.

thanks didn't think the question was worth it's own thread.


----------



## soloz2

not necessarily. I don't think it's worth worrying about and I'm not sure how to explain it.


----------



## felix.vollrath

which speakers should I get? Creative 550W or Z5500? I know Z5500 have better sound quality but 550W are wireless, which is kind of awesome


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:



Originally Posted by *felix.vollrath*


which speakers should I get? Creative 550W or Z5500? I know Z5500 have better sound quality but 550W are wireless, which is kind of awesome


Well, since you posted in this thread...neither.


----------



## sonenelson

Quote:



Originally Posted by *felix.vollrath*


which speakers should I get? Creative 550W or Z5500? I know Z5500 have better sound quality but 550W are wireless, which is kind of awesome


wrong place to ask about pc speakers, but since you did, if you have the money to throw away, need a quick fix, and you need a 5.1 system then I'd say the logitechs, but there are much higher quality(HIFI) 2.0 options available in that price range. which you could later upgrade to 5.1 . try to google search the forum and read through this thread. and post a link to the other thread that you already started for your question.

2.0 example... av123.com look at the mini monitor elt525 sale
http://www.av123.com//index.php?page...mart&Itemid=37
then buy a used or budget receiver/amp to power them.


----------



## pow3rtr1p

So, if I were to start building a set up little by little, should this be the order?

- Receiver / Amp (for headphones at first)
- 2.0 Speakers
- Sub
- Center Channel (3.1)
- Rear Speaker Pair (5.1)

I don't plan on getting a ridiculously expensive set up, but a decent 5.1 Set up with HDMI and a good headphone jack would be nice. I don't have an iPod so that isn't important. Having both HDMI and Optical In is a must. HDMI Out is also a necessity. So, what should I look into to power my A900s for the time being, and eventually be a pretty good amp for a 5.1 set up. I was thinking about one of these:

Yamaha RX-V365: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882115193
Pioneer VSX-519V-K: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...SX-519V-K.Kuro

What are your thoughts? Something a little more expensive is a possibility, but if I can get something great in the sub-$300 range, that would be great.


----------



## phospholipid

hi, me again. i was wondering if anyone else had an opinions for *Best a/v receiver for under 200$*.

this was recommended: 
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU.../ci.A-35R.Kuro

any others? if this is king, i'll recommend it to a friend. he's just going to be doing 2.0, maybe more in the future [doubt it] with a pair of *ELT525M Mini Monitor's, *that will be hooked up to iPod+LOD, vinyl, and cd player.


----------



## felix.vollrath

which is the best 5.1 speaker system that I can buy for under 500 bucks?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phospholipid*


hi, me again. i was wondering if anyone else had an opinions for *Best a/v receiver for under 200$*.

this was recommended: 
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU.../ci.A-35R.Kuro

any others? if this is king, i'll recommend it to a friend. he's just going to be doing 2.0, maybe more in the future [doubt it] with a pair of *ELT525M Mini Monitor's, *that will be hooked up to iPod+LOD, vinyl, and cd player.


this looks to be a pretty decent deal
http://store.audioholics.com/product.../onkyo-tx-8255
check the price on one of these when you order your speakers:
http://www.av123.com//index.php?page...mart&Itemid=37


----------



## phospholipid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


this looks to be a pretty decent deal
http://store.audioholics.com/product.../onkyo-tx-8255
check the price on one of these when you order your speakers:
http://www.av123.com//index.php?page...mart&Itemid=37



is audioholics a legit site? have you ordered from them before? :] thanks jacob


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phospholipid*


is audioholics a legit site? have you ordered from them before? :] thanks jacob


They are legit. Big name in both the retail and forum areas of HT.


----------



## soloz2

I've ordered from them before.


----------



## phospholipid

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


I've ordered from them before.


One more question before we buy :]

is there any reciever you'd recommend for "just $xx more"?
like this yamaha? http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-397-...&s=electronics

thanks jacob!


----------



## soloz2

for more? I'd look at integrated amps and maybe see what you can find in a NAD, Marantz, Denon, or Cambridge Audio unit


----------



## pow3rtr1p

Any thoughts on my question?


----------



## Deagle50ae

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pow3rtr1p* 
Any thoughts on my question?

Craigslist will be your best friend here.

if you're using your PC primarily sitting directly in front of it, there's no need for acenter channel at all.
Center channels are made for THEAATER type setups where the audience is in diverse locations. The center draws thier hearing to the SCREEN instead of the sides.

However, when you're sitting in with the front speakers properly alligned, the imaging is such that a center channel is useless. I

Buying in the order you specified is wise, minus the center.

in my own area I found these deals
keep in mind... sellers can almost always be talked won

Great receiver for PC use ($100)
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ele/1196645193.html

B&W speakers as use for mains ($160)
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ele/1186101206.html

Polk audio subwoofer ($50 despite the seller being an obvious dink!)
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ele/1196590791.html

a little over $300 and some meeting new people, and you've got yourself a very nice start to a respectable stereo

this is just 5-minutes of browsing. if you're patient, you can find a world of opportunity in the used market.

Myself for example.
I got a Sony GS700ES stereo receiver FOR FREE on craigslist. original MSRP nearly $1000
Primary channels don't work, but switch it over to 'B' and you're golden!

TIt's powering a pair of speakers I build from a DIY design.

that's $250 invested with all parts and some elbow grease, and I PROMISE it'll blow any retail deal out of the water even in the $500 range.

shop around.

Good luck!


----------



## pow3rtr1p

Well, I planned on using it for both my PC and my PS3, which is why I needed HDMI. It wouldn't be for PC surround sound, but for PC headphone use. The direction of the sound for the PC won't matter, but I will still listen to music on it, and it will be across the room.

Thanks for the Craigslist tip, too.


----------



## sonenelson

What DAC's are the best(is there a best)? how does the DAC in this NAD T-175 stack up ?Burr-Brown 24 bit 192kHz Stereo D/A converters (x5)?
http://nadelectronics.com/products/h...d-Preamplifier

I think the hifi section could use a guide/sticky on reputable online HIFI retailers I keep seeing new one's pop up and it would be nice to know if any one here has used them.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sonenelson*


What DAC's are the best(is there a best)? how does the DAC in this NAD T-175 stack up ?Burr-Brown 24 bit 192kHz Stereo D/A converters (x5)?
http://nadelectronics.com/products/h...d-Preamplifier

I think the hifi section could use a guide/sticky on reputable online HIFI retailers I keep seeing new one's pop up and it would be nice to know if any one here has used them.


the best DAC chip out right now is probably the latest ESS Sabre chip. However, there isn't really a way to answer your question further as sated.

The bottom line is that pretty much any DAC chip out today will do a good job and there will be very, very little difference between chips. The difference comes into the implementation or the circuit around the chip. 
The output stage has the most say in how a particular DAC will sound.


----------



## vwgti

Alright guys, I pose a question. Can some peeps give me some ideas on a powered sub preferably for music first then movies second. I am partial to a 12 inch due to the lows they can hit. But if you can convince me on a ten and give reasons why I may sway.

My budget is between 6-800, preferably closer to the lower side, but am willing to spend more on something better. Thanks guys and gals, looking forward to the responses.


----------



## sonenelson

THX says " ... In the world of THX Certified speaker systems, a 12-inch or 2x10-inch subwoofers is a minimum requirement."
http://www.thx.com/products/home/audio/shopping.html
http://www.thx.com/products/home/search.html
try using the THX site to find a 'select' or 'ultra' certified sub then, use that as a base to compare 'X' features/price of THX certified to 'Y' features/price of other subs. not all quality HIFI products/brands are THX certified or need to be but THX will give you a good starting point so you know what to look for and expect in your price range.

IMO I have always really like the svs cylinder subs, although I have only heard them a few times, I have always read great reviews.
http://www.svsound.com/products-sub-cyl.cfm
the new PC12-NSD is in your price range.


----------



## vwgti

Thanks for the suggests, but I dont need any THX qualified stuff to bring the price up, was just looking for a sub that plays well with music better than movies.

I have a KSW12 at present that plays well and nice and deep, but I tend to peak the amp out during parties, diminishing the lows.

Id rather not have a cylinder sub, but I was looking at at a svs 12 inch sub, this one, http://www.svsound.com/products-sub-box-sb12plus.cfm any comments on this sub, or other opinions.

Yes I know Im best to go listen but I live in rural NH, no shops that offer high quality gear on demo.


----------



## soloz2

what size room?


----------



## ace8uk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Alright guys, I pose a question. Can some peeps give me some ideas on a powered sub preferably for music first then movies second. I am partial to a 12 inch due to the lows they can hit. But if you can convince me on a ten and give reasons why I may sway.

My budget is between 6-800, preferably closer to the lower side, but am willing to spend more on something better. Thanks guys and gals, looking forward to the responses.


I would probably go for this http://www.svsound.com/products-sub-cyl-pc12_nsd.cfm It's under your budget but it still packs a powerful punch.

Edit: woops, just read you would rather not have a cylinder sub, never mind.


----------



## soloz2

this is what you should get:
http://www.av123.com//index.php?page...mart&Itemid=37

all units shipping now should have the new amp, which was the subs only downfall.


----------



## ace8uk

15-17hz frequency response? That's pretty impressive adn the moho satin finish is really nice.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ace8uk*


15-17hz frequency response? That's pretty impressive adn the moho satin finish is really nice.


not sure off hand. there's a thread on avs as a sub rating. av123 got a couple runs of bad amps so there's some hate there too, but the new amps have arrived from a different plant and should fix all the problems.

My pair of ULW10's from av123 in room response was over 90dB at 17-21Hz, but that's the lowest test tone I had. They are 10" drivers in sealed enclosures. The MFW was designed by Mark Seaton.


----------



## vwgti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


what size room?


Im currently in a 8x9 room, but plan on moving soon, and having a larger room to reside in. So i need something that is capable of filling larger areas.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vwgti*


Im currently in a 8x9 room, but plan on moving soon, and having a larger room to reside in. So i need something that is capable of filling larger areas.


my current living room is 12 x 20' with vaulted ceilings. one of the 20' long walls has two large cutout openings and a 7' wide doorway, which opens to my kitchen which is just as big.

And yes, if I recall correctly my two ULW10's produced 93db at 17Hz and 97dB at 21Hz when I was calibrating them.

So, you don't need dual 12" subs!


----------



## Contagion

have to post to get it off 666 number of posts


----------



## Pauluski

Mine:

*Energy Veritas 1.8 in Mahogany.*

Currently running thru HT amp and Bi-amped/tri-wired.

_Normal audio system "Out of Order"







Pre-amp developed power fault, SACD transport fell out during transport and CD player laser died. (one day will get them fixed LOL)_


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
15-17hz frequency response? That's pretty impressive adn the moho satin finish is really nice.

just saw this... dual MFW's flat in room response down to 11.5Hz... that would be better for movies than my subs!









http://www.tweakcityaudio.com/forum/...ead.php?t=1437


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pauluski*


Mine:

*Energy Veritas 1.8 in Mahogany.*

Currently running thru HT amp and Bi-amped/tri-wired.

_Normal audio system "Out of Order"







Pre-amp developed power fault, SACD transport fell out during transport and CD player laser died. (one day will get them fixed LOL)_


very sexy will add you to the list

ps is that a sub from a 5.1 system on the floor?

edit- list has been updated







lets keep the speakers coming


----------



## vwgti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


my current living room is 12 x 20' with vaulted ceilings. one of the 20' long walls has two large cutout openings and a 7' wide doorway, which opens to my kitchen which is just as big.

And yes, if I recall correctly my two ULW10's produced 93db at 17Hz and 97dB at 21Hz when I was calibrating them.

So, you don't need dual 12" subs!










Its not a matter of need, its a matter of want. Im sure two 12s at a quarter volume over one at just over half would sound well better and also compensate on room resonances.

Im looking to have a fulfilled sound across all locations in my room, that's my goal at least.


----------



## Chipp

It is also crucially important to consider the acoustic environment your room makes, especially with the budgets some of us are willing to put into speakers. The nicest setup in the world, in a poor room, will sound poor. Treatment is a must, IMO.


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
It is also crucially important to consider the acoustic environment your room makes, especially with the budgets some of us are willing to put into speakers. The nicest setup in the world, in a poor room, will sound poor. Treatment is a must, IMO.

x10000

Single most important aspect in speaker tuning in my opinion. It is why I feel I will not be upgrading from the Cicadas for the next few years (at the very least). I would rather put money into finding the sweet spot acoustics-wise with my current rig than dump finances into speakers that will not sound any better in the same environment.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


It is also crucially important to consider the acoustic environment your room makes, especially with the budgets some of us are willing to put into speakers. The nicest setup in the world, in a poor room, will sound poor. Treatment is a must, IMO.


x2


----------



## Pauluski

@ Jarble. Yup passive sub from 5.1 system. HT amp has two sub outputs (1 passive & 1 powered @100W 6ohm) Sub now resides behind sofa for vibe effect LOL


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Pauluski* 
@ Jarble. Yup passive sub from 5.1 system. HT amp has two sub outputs (1 passive & 1 powered @100W 6ohm) Sub now resides behind sofa for vibe effect LOL

nice I played around with something similar but in my 12x13 room I found that my diamonds were more than enough









do you want me to change your member post to say a 7.1 like in your sig or leave it as is?


----------



## mentholmoose

So, I want to get a pair of monitor speakers to replace the cheap POS's I've got now. I've already got an AV receiver I hooked my TV and computer up to, and the sound is alright, so far. I was looking at the Polk Audio Monitor 40 - link - but in addition to the cherry version, I saw a pair with black oak cabinets. Is there a difference in sound between the two? Also, are there any other bookshelf speakers like these that cost about the same and sound just as good or better?

I'm mostly going to be watching movies and TV, and listening to music with them. I'll game with them on occasionally, but not very often, so gaming really isn't that important.

EDIT: I've already got a good subwoofer I can use.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mentholmoose*


So, I want to get a pair of monitor speakers to replace the cheap POS's I've got now. I've already got an AV receiver I hooked my TV and computer up to, and the sound is alright, so far. I was looking at the Polk Audio Monitor 40 - link - but in addition to the cherry version, I saw a pair with black oak cabinets. Is there a difference in sound between the two? Also, are there any other bookshelf speakers like these that cost about the same and sound just as good or better?

I'm mostly going to be watching movies and TV, and listening to music with them. I'll game with them on occasionally, but not very often, so gaming really isn't that important.

EDIT: I've already got a good subwoofer I can use.


no difference in sound. They are just vinyl veneer.

there aren't too many speakers in that price range.
I believe engery has some, but I haven't heard them.

av123 has the elt525m in cherry on sale right now for $175, they probably won't dig as low since they aren't an MTM design (1 woofer instead of two) but since you have a sub already I'd give them a go.
Also, build quality is much better and they use real wood veneer.
http://www.av123.com//index.php?page...mart&Itemid=37


----------



## H3||scr3am

yes, definantly if you can stretch your budget the little bit, I suggest the AV123s over the Polks, I Love my AV123 Speakers, and the quality is great







Shipping to Canada is Killer though







but lucky for you, you're not in Canada


----------



## Boyboyd

Count me in. I have an age-old Arcam Delta 90 Amp with KEF Q-Compact speakers (Bi-wired) and an E-MU DAC.

Need to get a better amp but im pretty strapped for cash at the moment.

Edit: That's an old picture, the speakers are insulated from my desk with half-squash balls


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boydyboyd* 
Count me in. I have an age-old Arcam Delta 90 Amp with KEF Q-Compact speakers (Bi-wired) and an E-MU DAC.

Need to get a better amp but im pretty strapped for cash at the moment.

Edit: That's an old picture, the speakers are insulated from my desk with half-squash balls



























nice

member list updated


----------



## BANDIT_COROLLA

Im a proud owner of Z5500


----------



## bobfig

can i join??? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...P-2920.Support
its a little weak at the moment but i have a pioneer HTIAB i bought a little while ago. i plan on upgrading to some better front speakers soon. rght now its a 5.2 surround sound.










my home made sub





















i like it


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boydyboyd* 
I have an age-old Arcam Delta 90 Amp with KEF Q-Compact speakers (Bi-wired) and an E-MU DAC.

Need to get a better amp but im pretty strapped for cash at the moment.

Nice setup, how are the KEF's? I nearly chose some over my diamonds.

I wouldn't put the Arcam down, they make great quality gear. That amp is 70WPC @ 8Ohm and will be great quality. I'd guess that to upgrade from that amp you'd need to be spending at least Â£250-300


----------



## bobfig

hate to be the barrer of bad news....

Quote:


Originally Posted by *BANDIT_COROLLA* 
Im a proud owner of Z5500



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters.


----------



## Farih

sorry for crappy pictures but i just had to post my little sound system here to
this one just for home use and is hooked up on my pc wich i use for music mostly.. maybe a bit much for a bedroom but it does sound very cool.

amps.
1x IMQ stageline 400 [2x200W for tops]
1x DAP Palladium 700 [2x350W for dynacord subs]
1x Kort Elektronik 600 [1x600W for the S.A scoop]

speakers.
1X Stage Accompany 15inch scoop [JBL 600W rms. 1200W mx]
2X dynacord FE-100 15inch subs [400W rms, 800W max each]
2X Selfmade Electrovoice 12inch tops with horn tweeters [250W rms, 500W max each]

2 turntables and a 3 channel mixer + 1 mic

1500Watts r.m.s







) in just a small bedroom
gotta love it









in living room a Hardon Kardon 5.1 set for watching dvd











crappy pictures but people who know these brands know how it sounds


----------



## jarble

wow went to lunch and and almost added a page









Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
can i join??? http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...P-2920.Support
its a little weak at the moment but i have a pioneer HTIAB i bought a little while ago. i plan on upgrading to some better front speakers soon. rght now its a 5.2 surround sound.

[my home made sub





















i like it

so for you custom pioneer 5.2 ?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Farih* 
sorry for crappy pictures but i just had to post my little sound system here to
this one just for home use and is hooked up on my pc wich i use for music mostly.. maybe a bit much for a bedroom but it does sound very cool.

amps.
1x IMQ stageline 400 [2x200W for tops]
1x DAP Palladium 700 [2x350W for dynacord subs]
1x Kort Elektronik 600 [1x600W for the S.A scoop]

speakers.
1X Stage Accompany 15inch scoop [JBL 600W rms. 1200W mx]
2X dynacord FE-100 15inch subs [400W rms, 800W max each]
2X Selfmade Electrovoice 12inch tops with horn tweeters [250W rms, 500W max each]

2 turntables and a 3 channel mixer + 1 mic

1500Watts r.m.s







) in just a small bedroom
gotta love it









in living room a Hardon Kardon 5.1 set for watching dvd

crappy pictures but people who know these brands know how it sounds









wow very nice setup (used to run a gig that had ev speakers very nice stuff







)

as for the member list custom ev's and Hardon Kardon 5.1 sound ok?

ps if you guys don't like how Ive listed you speakers feel free to post here and tell me or give me a pm and Ill see what I can do


----------



## Chipp

Speakers in a road case, nice!









It is good to see someone else with semi-pro gear. There has been a gradual blending of the line between the gear I DJ with and my home rig... It makes me feel dirty.


----------



## rduffy123

My Polk 40's are coming in today, ill post up pics later. Now I gotta grab a sub.


----------



## jarble

member list updated


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Nice setup, how are the KEF's? I nearly chose some over my diamonds.

I wouldn't put the Arcam down, they make great quality gear. That amp is 70WPC @ 8Ohm and will be great quality. I'd guess that to upgrade from that amp you'd need to be spending at least Â£250-300

I think they are pretty good for the money. A good amout of bass even for their size. Good sound reproduction accross the middle and upper part of the spectrum even at high volumes. Sound way better with the Arcam amp (despite it being nearly 30 years old) than they did with the Yamaha 5.1 amp downstairs.

And yeah, i was looking at a denon amp that i found for about Â£300 but i'm pretty happy with it at the moment and i'm saving up for bigger things









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Farih* 



/QUOTE]
























very nice setup, i'm jealous


----------



## BANDIT_COROLLA

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
hate to be the barrer of bad news....


----------



## ace8uk

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boydyboyd* 
And yeah, i was looking at a denon amp that i found for about Â£300 but i'm pretty happy with it at the moment and i'm saving up for bigger things









Fo' cereal? I would take Arcam over Denon any day, regardless of how old the Arcam amp was. Honestly, like Tudj said, that arcam amp you have is a powerful amplifier and you would have to spend a fair bit of money if you wanted anything better. For a setup that you got almost entirely for free, it's a good sound system. Oh and as far as bass goes, I would have to disagree with your statement. The bookshelf KEF IQ series suffer when bass is involved, but if it's good enough for you at the moment, that's cool







I do hope to see you shaking down walls with a decent subwoofer to complete that system some time in the near future though


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
Fo' cereal? I would take Arcam over Denon any day, regardless of how old the Arcam amp was. Honestly, like Tudj said, that arcam amp you have is a powerful amplifier and you would have to spend a fair bit of money if you wanted anything better. For a setup that you got almost entirely for free, it's a good sound system. *Oh and as far as bass goes, I would have to disagree with your statement.* The bookshelf KEF IQ series suffer when bass is involved, but if it's good enough for you at the moment, that's cool







I do hope to see you shaking down walls with a decent subwoofer to complete that system some time in the near future though









It's most likely where he has them placed, in a corner with a low ceiling


----------



## ace8uk

That's true. I happen to know that boydy actually has his computer/speakers in a loft conversion of an old farm house (or was it a barn? Same thing..), I should have taken the location into consideration actually, my bad







Anyway, it's still an awesome setup


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ace8uk* 
That's true. I happen to know that boydy actually has his computer/speakers in a loft conversion of an old farm house (or was it a barn? Same thing..), I should have taken the location into consideration actually, my bad







Anyway, it's still an awesome setup









haha yes, that is true. And it's an old farm house









It could be the placement... I'd just like to point out that the bass isn't earth-shattering, just very good for their size.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *boydyboyd* 
haha yes, that is true. And it's an old farm house









It could be the placement... I'd just like to point out that the bass isn't earth-shattering, just very good for their size.

no need for earth-shattering as long as its acurate


----------



## rduffy123

As promised. Don't have receiver or anything setup like I want yet. Need a new desk.
Ps: sorry for crappy pics, moms camera sucks.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *rduffy123* 
As promised. Don't have receiver or anything setup like I want yet. Need a new desk.
Ps: sorry for crappy pics, moms camera sucks.

nice


----------



## vwgti

Well just to let you all know, I got my sub sounding great. Had to phase it 180, but also had to almost max the volume on it.

Yes it blends great with my main speakers, but I am concerned of THD. Obviously Im not running the amplifier efficiently. So any suggests?


----------



## grahamcrackuh

Does a 1965 deluxe reverb count?

It has nice speakers.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *vwgti* 
Well just to let you all know, I got my sub sounding great. Had to phase it 180, but also had to almost max the volume on it.

Yes it blends great with my main speakers, but I am concerned of THD. Obviously Im not running the amplifier efficiently. So any suggests?

Phase will make no difference as to amplifier load.

The "volume" knob on your sub is really a gain knob - it controls how much input voltage is required to make the amp produce rated output power. It is not a bad thing to have it all the way up, that just means that you have a lower level signal coming in from your source. The amplifier THD will be rated based on output power levels, not input voltage, so it does not matter where the gain is.

Look at is this way: If your amp were rated 2% THD at 100w, it does not matter if 100w is achieved with a really hot input signal or a really low one - as long as there is 100w of power being output, you can assume THD is going to be 2%.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *grahamcrackuh* 
Does a 1965 deluxe reverb count?

It has nice speakers.

I would say not, but hold out on that


----------



## Benny99

Add in My Setup !

Wharfedale 9 C.M, SW250 Sub, 9.6s and 9.1s + Denon 2809.


----------



## vwgti

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Phase will make no difference as to amplifier load.

The "volume" knob on your sub is really a gain knob - it controls how much input voltage is required to make the amp produce rated output power. It is not a bad thing to have it all the way up, that just means that you have a lower level signal coming in from your source. The amplifier THD will be rated based on output power levels, not input voltage, so it does not matter where the gain is.

Look at is this way: If your amp were rated 2% THD at 100w, it does not matter if 100w is achieved with a really hot input signal or a really low one - as long as there is 100w of power being output, you can assume THD is going to be 2%.

Cheers for clearing that up. Was just curious as phase at 0 requires much less gain than phase at 180. But good to know as long as the amp dosnt peak I will have minimum THD. Cyber cookie for you chipp.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Benny99* 
Add in My Setup !

Wharfedale 9 C.M, SW250 Sub, 9.6s and 9.1s + Denon 2809.














































good god that's a lot of wharfedale you make me jealous







how do the 9.6's sound? or have you done any testing with the individual components of that set up?

will update that list after lunch









edit lunch what is this lunch? list updated







you must tell us (mostly me) more about that setup


----------



## slytown

Add me.

KRK Rokit 6 Studio Monitors. I love these things.



















Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I guess I'll never get away without posting here. This is part of one of my speaker setups. I just finished these today







My latest 'upgrade' DIY outriggers for my av123 ELT525T's










Preliminary listening seems that the highs aren't quite as open as previously (I was using 12x12" granite slabs under the speakers) so more listening tests are in order. The speakers are more sable, but I may look into 18x18" slabs :dizzy:

Wow, those are gorgeous! Is that rosewood?


----------



## soloz2

yes, rosewood real wood veneer. I have the 5.0 ELT525 in Rosewood in my living room and I have Onix Reference 1's in my office, same finish.


----------



## Benny99

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
good god that's a lot of wharfedale you make me jealous







how do the 9.6's sound? or have you done any testing with the individual components of that set up?

will update that list after lunch









edit lunch what is this lunch? list updated







you must tell us (mostly me) more about that setup










Ive been doing some testing on the 9.6s and They are pretty good.

The sound overall is quite warm the highs sparkle without being harsh. Most of the time i was drawn into whatever i was listening to even at low volumes.

The Midrange is well defined and voices have a good sound without being boomy at all . The bass from the speaker is great aswell fast and tight.

Obviously i still think they need a Sub with them for the Extreme Low end









Overall though a very musical speaker.

For the Price i really couldn't find any better


----------



## darthspartan

O why not ok here's what i run.

2 carvin trx cabs with 2x15s and one 2in horn. 1000 watts each
2 carvin trs powered 18s 700watts each
2 carvin folded 18s 1000 watts each
2 carvin mid cabs 2x 10in in each 1000watts
4 carvin high Dispersion Radial High Frequency Horns 500 watts each

Mixer Yamaha O2R


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darthspartan* 
O why not ok here's what i run.

2 carvin trx cabs with 2x15s and one 2in horn. 1000 watts each
2 carvin trs powered 18s 700watts each
2 carvin folded 18s 1000 watts each
2 carvin mid cabs 2x 10in in each 1000watts
4 carvin high Dispersion Radial High Frequency Horns 500 watts each

Mixer Yamaha O2R









Those are some nice Carvin boxes - I've heard good things about TRX series. Do you have any issues running both folded horn and direct radiating subs? I'd imagine it is hard to match output levels, if nothing else.

What are you driving them with?









And just for the record, pardon my drooling over the O2R. I'll stop soon, I promise.


----------



## darthspartan

It's actually really easy the folded run about 80hrz higher so no prob just run the radial subs full out and set the folded to those with the crossover. Also the Yamaha mixer makes it easy lol My next mixer is the EAW UMX 96. Those old cabs are almost 25 years old and the trx are a year. I drive this with 3 carvin 2000watt amps and a makie 2600 watt for the folded subs.


----------



## Chipp

FR M2600, by chance? I've got the same one driving my mains.


----------



## darthspartan

HaHa ya i love that amp plenty of power for the subs. I picked that amp and a 2000 watt carvin with 2 cabs with one 15in and a 6in tweet and a 1in horn for like $300. The folded stacks i picked up for $900.

I uploaded some new pics to my gallery check them out.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darthspartan* 
O why not ok here's what i run.

2 carvin trx cabs with 2x15s and one 2in horn. 1000 watts each
2 carvin trs powered 18s 700watts each
2 carvin folded 18s 1000 watts each
2 carvin mid cabs 2x 10in in each 1000watts
4 carvin high Dispersion Radial High Frequency Horns 500 watts each

Mixer Yamaha O2R









omg







what should I put in the member list "lots of carvin?"


----------



## H3||scr3am

latest deal from AV123 was too insane for me to miss, and with my plans fro expansion on my tv/home theatre setup







I decided to jump on it







although I went the cheapest option available for me, which will have me waiting for a while, sadly.

$998 USD for a full 5.1 Setup 

- 10% off coupon (if you're interested, msg me I have one for anyone)

=898 + 111 shipping to my parents in TX (where they will sit waiting until my uncle has to haul something there (he's a trucker), and he'll bring them back across the border for me + to my house for free and no duties







)

without this option it would have cost me $300 alone for shipping + for duties... KILLER

will post pics when I get them







can't wait









looking for suggestions for other components to power/control this setup...

it'll be 52-56" LCD TV (need to buy still) - > HDMI - > Receiver (I need your help here) -> Poweramps (possibly, I <3 Rotel RB 991) -> speakers... all suggestions appreciated, let me know







looking for under $1k on the rest of the components, including cables, etc.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
latest deal from AV123 was too insane for me to miss, and with my plans fro expansion on my tv/home theatre setup







I decided to jump on it







although I went the cheapest option available for me, which will have me waiting for a while, sadly.

$998 USD for a full 5.1 Setup 

- 10% off coupon (if you're interested, msg me I have one for anyone)

=898 + 111 shipping to my parents in TX (where they will sit waiting until my uncle has to haul something there (he's a trucker), and he'll bring them back across the border for me + to my house for free and no duties







)

without this option it would have cost me $300 alone for shipping + for duties... KILLER

will post pics when I get them







can't wait









looking for suggestions for other components to power/control this setup...

it'll be 52-56" LCD TV (need to buy still) - > HDMI - > Receiver (I need your help here) -> Poweramps (possibly, I <3 Rotel RB 991) -> speakers... all suggestions appreciated, let me know







looking for under $1k on the rest of the components, including cables, etc.

I'd go with a Marantz receiver


----------



## H3||scr3am

links? i was thinking an Onkyo receiver, but unsure... checking out the used scene...


----------



## TUDJ

Whoop,

I've found a pair of Tannoy M3's for Â£35 ($60)










Should be collecting them tomorrow


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Whoop,

I've found a pair of Tannoy M3's for Â£35 ($60)










Should be collecting them tomorrow










nice find

member list updated


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
nice find

member list updated

You're eager! I don't even have them yet


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Whoop,

I've found a pair of Tannoy M3's for Â£35 ($60)










Should be collecting them tomorrow










What the hell, that's incredible deal!


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *boydyboyd*


What the hell, that's incredible deal!


I've been scouring ebay and Loot for ages in hope of something to come along, as the saying goes - good things come to those who wait.

It's definatley worth having a look at the Gumtree page for your area as it doesn't seem to have that many buyers. I looked on Gumtree for Manchester for the first time yesterday and saw these M3's that had been posted on there *3 months* ago!! I sent an email expecting them to have been sold but they are [were] still for sale


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


I've been scouring ebay and Loot for ages in hope of something to come along, as the saying goes - good things come to those who wait.

It's definatley worth having a look at the Gumtree page for your area as it doesn't seem to have that many buyers. I looked on Gumtree for Manchester for the first time yesterday and saw these M3's that had been posted on there *3 months* ago!! I sent an email expecting them to have been sold but they are [were] still for sale










Hmmm i might give it a look, thanks. Wish i had the money / space for floorstanding speakers. lol


----------



## XaNe

Im looking to replace my Sony SS-F5000
With a pair of Jamo E 680's and a S 60 CEN
would this be a worthy upgrade i hate my current speakers
the would be powered by a Marantz SR5001
i would buy them here
http://www.wwstereo.com/#/ecommerce/...103__0_0_0_-1/

i also posted that in Avs Forum
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...872526&page=12
one member was kind to explain them to me and also posted pictures

































what does the ocn speaker club think?


----------



## TUDJ

How are you for space? Placing rear ported speakers such as those against (or within about 2ft) a wall can influence the bass in a negative way.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


How are you for space? Placing rear ported speakers such as those against (or within about 2ft) a wall can influence the bass in a negative way.


qft


----------



## ImmortalKenny

I've been looking to get something to replace my z5500's for quite some time now, and need your guys' help. Audioengine A5W or ELT525M? My source will be my ExtremeMusic (if that matters). What do you guys think?

I mainly listen to techno/trance and heavy rock.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*


I've been looking to get something to replace my z5500's for quite some time now, and need your guys' help. Audioengine A5W or ELT525M? My source will be my ExtremeMusic (if that matters). What do you guys think?

I mainly listen to techno/trance and heavy rock.


both would be a good option. With the ELT's you'll need an amp


----------



## ImmortalKenny

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
both would be a good option. With the ELT's you'll need an amp

They don't have that Gizmo deal still going on do they?

Also another question, how much bass will I lose going from z5500's to bookshelf speakers?


----------



## Aura

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ImmortalKenny*


Also another question, how much bass will I lose going from z5500's to bookshelf speakers?


You will lose a bit of crap, over-bloated bass that adds nothing redeemable to the music.

You will gain a more natural and accurate presentation of the low-end.

Of course, this would depend/vary on the model of speaker, but that's the general idea of what occurs when one moves beyond the Logitechs.


----------



## TUDJ

Didn't get the M3's today, I shall be picking them up tomorrow evening - expect pics!


----------



## BigDirty

Hey speaker guys, im planning on expanding my rig into the realm of speaker audio. Anyone with experience with the Focal Chorus line? guy at the hi-fi shop raves about them. Im looking into the chorus 714v floor standers. Ive had trouble finding reviews/info on them. any insight would be great.
should mention i plan on using the Rega brios 3 for an amp.

big


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BigDirty*


Hey speaker guys, im planning on expanding my rig into the realm of speaker audio. Anyone with experience with the Focal Chorus line? guy at the hi-fi shop raves about them. Im looking into the chorus 714v floor standers. Ive had trouble finding reviews/info on them. any insight would be great.
should mention i plan on using the Rega brios 3 for an amp.

big


You should ask for a demo, it's the best (and should be the only) way of buying speakers. Whether you like them or not is down to your ears - not the salemans'.

They should let you take your amp along to get the closest matching sound - even better they may let you do a home demo if you are willing to lay a deposit down.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Didn't get the M3's today, I shall be picking them up tomorrow evening - expect pics!


expecting


----------



## Aura

I revamped my home setup today; second time my room has ended up considerably different since April







.

Decided to move the components from my glass shelving to the vastly-more solid cabinet, which was adjusted into the position the glass unit had been in. Along with entirely nullifying vibrations to my components (my cabinet is made of Maple and must weigh 200 pounds when full), this allowed me to add another 2 (possibly 3) feet of space between the speakers. I'm getting a larger sense of soundstage width. I also pulled the speakers another 1/2 foot farther from the back wall, which helped depth. Both sides are corner-loaded and ready to rock.

The sound is so close to ideal... with the exception of some low-range bloom in the left speaker. I might dampen the corner behind it simply because it's the only audible flaw I can detect at the moment and thus annoying me. Other than that, I'm all set until the fall when everything gets moved to school.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
I revamped my home setup today; second time my room has ended up considerably different since April







.

Decided to move the components from my glass shelving to the vastly-more solid cabinet, which was adjusted into the position the glass unit had been in. Along with entirely nullifying vibrations to my components (my cabinet is made of Maple and must weigh 200 pounds when full), this allowed me to add another 2 (possibly 3) feet of space between the speakers. I'm getting a larger sense of soundstage width. I also pulled the speakers another 1/2 foot farther from the back wall, which helped depth. Both sides are corner-loaded and ready to rock.

The sound is so close to ideal... with the exception of some low-range bloom in the left speaker. I might dampen the corner behind it simply because it's the only audible flaw I can detect at the moment and thus annoying me. Other than that, I'm all set until the fall when everything gets moved to school.


nice


----------



## TUDJ

You can update the list now Jarble


















I'm just about to hook them up, impressions and more pics later!


----------



## Aura

Looking good Mike







. Tannoy is very intriguing, if I had unlimited resources I'd definitely try out the Westminster Abbey's.

Here's my before/after:



















The rack may have looked a bit nicer, but this setup with the cabinet is far better for the sound benefits.


----------



## soloz2

I'm thinking about trying some single driver speakers...


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
You can update the list now Jarble


















I'm just about to hook them up, impressions and more pics later!

it was alreddy done









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Looking good Mike







. Tannoy is very intriguing, if I had unlimited resources I'd definitely try out the Westminster Abbey's.

Here's my before/after:



















The rack may have looked a bit nicer, but this setup with the cabinet is far better for the sound benefits.

do like

what is your room size if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## TUDJ

Lookin' nice Bryan









I'm considering picking up a CD5001 next payday.

These Tannoys are fantastic, as good as my Wharfies are for their price, the M3 knocks the spots of them. The sound is much more defined, the top end seems clearer but also a little harsher than the Wharfs. And then there's the bass!! It's pretty tight and fast and obviously digs much deeper than the standmounts. It helps that they are front ported too as they are only inches from the wall.

My Marantz seems to be keeping up no problem, I was a little concerned about it's 35W but even at loud (very loud) it doesn't have a problem.

Pics;

New setup










Old setup










As you might see from the pics, I had a cable tidy up last weekend - things were getting out of control.

I'll be moving the sub back down to the lounge setup, the M3's have plenty of bass for my tastes









Oh and to put the icing on the cake, when we got to the guys house to pay for them, my dad gave me the money! Woohoo!


----------



## soloz2

^^ I think it's time for a new monitor


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
do like

what is your room size if you don't mind me asking?

It's small and oddly shaped; the section that is in that pic is like 8' x '5, then the rest of the room expands to 11' x 9', where my bed/pc/etc. is located.

It's not quite nearfield, but close. Technically I should be listening probably another 3-4 feet farther than I am, but oh well.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
^^ I think it's time for a new monitor









Are you buying?









It's on the list - but the list is very long


----------



## soloz2

I think I'm probably going to go through with the purchase of a nice SACD player. It's been on my wish list for quite a while, so even though I've been very happy with my CD25 I can't afford both!

I'll give ou guys here first dibs. I have the original box, receipt, etc. The CDP itself is in like new condition, the remote is excellent except the aluminum face has started to pull up at the top. Nothing some glue won't fix...

Parts Connexion 1+ modded Music Hall CD25.
brief review where it bested a $1,700 player: http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/m...ll/cd25.2.html

Mods Include:
# 10 x Japanese Riken Ohm 1/2 watt (gold-plated leads) Carbon resistors in the signal path.
# 8 x BlackGate Standard, N and C grade electrolytic capacitors around the coupling caps and power supply
# 2 x Multicap PPMFX grade metalized polypropylene capacitors in the signal path
# 8 x SF4007 Vishay-Telefunken diodes to the bias supply
# 2 x sheets of Soundcoat dampening material applied to the internal chassis
# 4 x EAR compliant Sorbothane isolation feet installed on the bottom of the machine
# 1 pr. of Vampire RCA jacks (OFC copper body, gold-plated) installed on the back plate
# 2 ft. DH Labs pure silver, Teflon dielectric output wire in place of the cheap stock wire
# TRT Silver content Wonder Solder throughout.
the + signifies the opa627 op-amps.

I currently have Burson Discrete Op-Amps installed, they take the CD25 another step up from the 1+ mods. (cost $180 for the pair)

I've seen these sell for $400+ over the last year or so, so lets say $375 split shipping. If you want the Burson Discrete Op-Amps I'll let those go for $145)


----------



## .Sup

Aura I like before more-looks more geeky








tudj now all you need to do is some stand for those speakers so they are closer to your ear level


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
Aura I like before more-looks more geeky








tudj now all you need to do is some stand for those speakers so they are closer to your ear level









I might not bother, they sound great as it is


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I might not bother, they sound great as it is









thats what I said for my monitors until I made my own stands and they started to sound even better (vocals got a live)


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
thats what I said for my monitors until I made my own stands and they started to sound even better (vocals got a live)









I don't really want my floorstanders on stands, I don't see the need - they are designed to be on the floor.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I don't really want my floorstanders on stands, I don't see the need - they are designed to be on the floor.

suit yourself but I think your old setup was positioned better


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I don't really want my floorstanders on stands, I don't see the need - they are designed to be on the floor.

if you put them up about 10" or so then the tweeters will be closer to ear level. In nearfield you would probably notice the difference. Try some cinder blocks and see if you like the difference or not.


----------



## TUDJ

I'll leave it for now, I'll most likely feel the need to tinker in a week or so


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
It's small and oddly shaped; the section that is in that pic is like 8' x '5, then the rest of the room expands to 11' x 9', where my bed/pc/etc. is located.

It's not quite nearfield, but close. Technically I should be listening probably another 3-4 feet farther than I am, but oh well.

cool glad to see I'm not the only one cramming "big" speakers into a tiny room









Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I'll leave it for now, I'll most likely feel the need to tinker in a week or so









yep that's about the time the newness wears off and the tinker bug bights









what did you do with your wharfedales?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
what did you do with your wharfedales?

They are still in my room, sat in the corner









We are converting our detached garage into a Study/Games room/place for visitors to sleep so I'll be sticking them in there - I'm currently on the lookout for a cheap amp. I might even stretch to a new Cambridge Audio A5.

I'm sat here listening to Norah Jones on my new babies and it's just struck me how much bigger the sound stage is vs my Wharfies.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
They are still in my room, sat in the corner









We are converting our detached garage into a Study/Games room/place for visitors to sleep so I'll be sticking them in there - I'm currently on the lookout for a cheap amp. I might even stretch to a new Cambridge Audio A5.

I'm sat here listening to Norah Jones on my new babies and it's just struck me how much bigger the sound stage is vs my Wharfies.























full tower vs book shelf is a big difference


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
full tower vs book shelf is a big difference









Yeah, I was expecting a difference, mainly in bass but the overall sound is just so much more involving, I'm also hearing much better depth (like soundstage but front to back)

To put into terms how happy I am - if I had paid full (new) price for these, which was around Â£400-500, I would still be over the moon


----------



## Matt*S.

I have:

2x Energy C-5 Towers
2x Energy C-R3 Dipole Surrounds
1x Energy C-C1 Center Channel
1x Elemental Designs - A3-300 Subwoofer

All of this is Powered/Processed by:
Emotiva LMC-1 Preamp/Processor
Emotiva LPA-1 Amplifier (125wx5 @ 8Ohms)

I will take pictures sometime shortly. ((Final round of Finals this week before I have my Electrical Engineering Degree...WooT))


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Yeah, I was expecting a difference, mainly in bass but the overall sound is just so much more involving, I'm also hearing much better depth (like soundstage but front to back)

To put into terms how happy I am - if I had paid full (new) price for these, which was around Â£400-500, I would still be over the moon









I know what you mean when I first bought my speakers I thought I was crazy spending 500+ for them but after I set them up I would have paid full price for them 1000+ at some point you realise you cant put a price on good audio

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Matt*S.* 
I have:

2x Energy C-5 Towers
2x Energy C-R3 Dipole Surrounds
1x Energy C-C1 Center Channel
1x Elemental Designs - A3-300 Subwoofer

All of this is Powered/Processed by:
Emotiva LMC-1 Preamp/Processor
Emotiva LPA-1 Amplifier (125wx5 @ 8Ohms)

I will take pictures sometime shortly. ((Final round of Finals this week before I have my Electrical Engineering Degree...WooT))

will update the list with energy 5.1









btw how do you like the emotiva amp? as that's the brand I am looking at (upa2 to be specific) to replace my rca pos


----------



## Matt*S.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
btw how do you like the emotiva amp? as that's the brand I am looking at (upa2 to be specific) to replace my rca pos









In all honesty it's just been rock solid. The company has been wonderful. Whenever they release the updated LMC-1 I will be first in line, in fact I'm on the reserved list. Great Products from a great company. Excellent sound quality. I use the Emotiva stuff to replace a Denon 2307ci that I was less then impressed with and never looked back.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Matt*S.* 
In all honesty it's just been rock solid. The company has been wonderful. Whenever they release the updated LMC-1 I will be first in line, in fact I'm on the reserved list. Great Products from a great company. Excellent sound quality. I use the Emotiva stuff to replace a Denon 2307ci that I was less then impressed with and never looked back.

nice


----------



## drjoey1500

I know it was a long time ago but heres what I did to my speakers.
I got some polyester batting and some green foam.

*edit*I split the batting in half and re-stuffed both cabinets.*

Here's the green foam on the vari-q plug
















While they were apart I put some gasket tape in, and replaced the screws.
You can see some of the tape here








Finished. I finally got rid of the duct tape

















The bass sounds a lot better now. Tighter and more controlled. I can actually partially make out the timbre of the bass drum, instead of just a dull thump.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
I know it was a long time ago but heres what I did to my speakers.
I got some polyester batting and some green foam.

*edit*I split the batting in half and re-stuffed both cabinets.*

Here's the green foam on the vari-q plug
















While they were apart I put some gasket tape in, and replaced the screws.
You can see some of the tape here








Finished. I finally got rid of the duct tape

















The bass sounds a lot better now. Tighter and more controlled. I can actually partially make out the timbre of the bass drum, instead of just a dull thump.

very nice much cleaner







if you want you could put some new veneer and make them look a lot better but that's just aesthetics the sound is what maters


----------



## soloz2

Thought I'd post a couple deals here to club members before I either change my mind or offer anywhere else.

1. TCA Gizmo 25wpc digital amp with sub out. Like new, with original box. Sells for $119 new, $75 shipped con-US.

2. Music Hall CD25 with Parts Connexion 1+ mods, 9/10 condition, remote 8/10. Have the original box and receipt. Great CD player for less than the mods alone cost! New was $980, $365 shipped con-US


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
Thought I'd post a couple deals here to club members before I either change my mind or offer anywhere else.

1. TCA Gizmo 25wpc digital amp with sub out. Like new, with original box. Sells for $119 new, $75 shipped con-US.

2. Music Hall CD25 with Parts Connexion 1+ mods, 9/10 condition, remote 8/10. Have the original box and receipt. Great CD player for less than the mods alone cost! New was $980, $365 shipped con-US

nice stuf wish I had the cash


----------



## TI66ER

Heres what i have









Mordaunt short MS902s signature,i like them they sound pretty good to me.I have 4 of these and a Kef centre,connected to my sony amp with QED silver anniversary wire.


----------



## jarble

list updated


----------



## oblivion.sky

Count me in!

(2) KRK ROCKIT 8'

im also a bedroom DJ, hmmm more like a living room dj..


----------



## Chipp

Is that a JRX sub? I am having a hard time telling the series...


----------



## oblivion.sky

yes sir, it's the JRX100 Series Model-JRX118SP 18" powered monsta


----------



## Chipp

Damn I'm good.


----------



## oblivion.sky

Ha! it stomps like no other...









i love it...


----------



## Chipp

I promised myself that I will buy no more PA speakers until I can afford a a pair of SRX 728s and a pair of SRX 725s to sit on them.

Now, when that will be? Probably years from now. But hey, I can dream, can't I?


----------



## oblivion.sky

reading em already sends shivers down my spine....

yeah, they're are very pricey but the thing is nowadays more and more high

quality speakers goes for rent...

i will admit, that's the only time i can touch them speakerssss

i got to use some jbl array speakers before on a wedding and it was

awesomeeeee..


----------



## dan0964

My Setup

Fronts : Monitor Audio RS6's (bi-amped)Info
Centre : Monitor Audio RSLCR Info










Receiver : Arcam AVR280










Rears : Monitor Audio RS1's Info


















And for the sub, the BK Monolith-DF.










http://www.bkelec.com/HiFi/Sub_Woofers/monolith-df.htm

The box is tuned for 20Hz, Ive owned a few other high end subs, including ones costing quite a bit more and being of a higher "power", but nothing has come close to the monolith, each monolith is hand made to order. I have the crossover set up at 80Hz and it fits in with the RS's very well

The speakers, sub and amp cos me about Â£2350 at the time, Money well spent


----------



## jarble

list updated









ps I will be going to France at the end of this month and wont be able to update the list for a few weeks if someone else could cover it while I'm gone that would be great


----------



## Rayce185

I have Logitech Z-5500's, do I qualify?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Rayce185* 
I have Logitech Z-5500's, do I qualify?









nope sorry

Quote:

As such, we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters.


----------



## airplaneman

Hey, maybe you guys can help me out here. I want to get a decent set of 5.1 speakers for my computer with a receiver and had intended to go with Logitech Z-5500's until I heard about the Pioneer HTP-2920 package. I know it isn't much, but the specs seem OK for the price..except I can't find anywhere to buy it. I have about $300-$400 to spend on this. I will save more if it's worth it. What can you guys recommend for me?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Hey, maybe you guys can help me out here. I want to get a decent set of 5.1 speakers for my computer with a receiver and had intended to go with Logitech Z-5500's until I heard about the Pioneer HTP-2920 package. I know it isn't much, but the specs seem OK for the price..except I can't find anywhere to buy it. I have about $300-$400 to spend on this. I will save more if it's worth it. What can you guys recommend for me?

here's what I'd do:

start with a pair of energy speakers, infinity, or grab the sale price on a pair of ELT525M from av123. There's a nice yamaha receiver for sale on head-case just posted today. add more speakers as you get more money.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
here's what I'd do:

start with a pair of energy speakers, infinity, or grab the sale price on a pair of ELT525M from av123. There's a nice yamaha receiver for sale on head-case just posted today. add more speakers as you get more money.

this







although av123 the shipping and customs will tack on a fair bit. I have a 10% coupon code you can use to try and save a bit more... also check out their B-Stock. or check out www.axiomaudio.com, they have some great speakers and free shipping to Canada and the US







although the prices are not on par with AV123s offerings.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

I've got a pair of these thingies hooked up to my PC. (CLS-12)










They're ugly but they get 'er dun. (I'll take a pic when my sister returns my camera..)

I get cookie?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *airplaneman* 
Hey, maybe you guys can help me out here. I want to get a decent set of 5.1 speakers for my computer with a receiver and had intended to go with Logitech Z-5500's until I heard about the Pioneer HTP-2920 package. I know it isn't much, but the specs seem OK for the price..except I can't find anywhere to buy it. I have about $300-$400 to spend on this. I will save more if it's worth it. What can you guys recommend for me?

i have the Pioneer HTP-2920. i got mine from best buy. got them because i had 50$ in gift cards from my B-day. there ok for what they are but the sub definitely lacks thump. im fine with that since i have a custom made 10" i use.







its a good starter set that i think is better then the logitech because you can upgrade the speakers. never had a problem with it. but if you have $300-400 you may be able to get it and change the front speakers. most will recommend just finding a good receiver and a pair of speakers and start from there.


----------



## airplaneman

Thanks guys! Will definitely check out those stores. I have a pair of big (2' x 1') JVC's that I'm using now hooked up to an old 80's reciever to replace my Z-2300's. They work fine but I'd like something more. I have the Logitech sub from the Z-2300's and it works great IMO. Still hooked on the HTP-2920's.

Thanks and +rep.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 
I've got a pair of these thingies hooked up to my PC. (CLS-12)










They're ugly but they get 'er dun. (I'll take a pic when my sister returns my camera..)

I get cookie?

dose being on the list count as a cookie? if so than here you go


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Mmm, cookies


----------



## noname

For those who don't have an email subscription to av123.com, check their latest deal out:

http://www.av123.com//index.php?page...mart&Itemid=37

5.1 system for 600+shipping?
I think yes.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
For those who don't have an email subscription to av123.com, check their latest deal out:

http://www.av123.com//index.php?page...mart&Itemid=37

5.1 system for 600+shipping?
I think yes.

5.0 system... missing a sub to classify as 5.1 but still a great deal.


----------



## Steggy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mega_option101* 
I would like to join


















I could swear i think my parents owned those speakers with their old turntable from when i was a kid. We had those speakers in the attic until they finally tossed em :/. if they weren't those, then they just looked extremely similar.

As fas joining the club, i doubt i would be deemed acceptable, it's not like my name being on the first page really matters really ;/

But what I listen to now
-Swan M10's
-Tivoli Model One
-Cambridge Soundworks m50's(they are owned by my brother however)


----------



## cyberspyder

An update:



















WATT Puppy System 8
Cello Audio Suite
Cello Performance Amp II
Cello Audio Palette
Wadia CD Transport
Wadia Decoding Computer
Gotham Cables


----------



## SUPER PISSED

You sir are awesome..... awesome. A hundred cookies to you.


----------



## Chipp

It is a shame the Wilson gear is so ugly.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Steggy* 
I could swear i think my parents owned those speakers with their old turntable from when i was a kid. We had those speakers in the attic until they finally tossed em :/. if they weren't those, then they just looked extremely similar.

As fas joining the club, i doubt i would be deemed acceptable, it's not like my name being on the first page really matters really ;/

But what I listen to now
-Swan M10's
-Tivoli Model One
-Cambridge Soundworks m50's(they are owned by my brother however)

yes unfortunately the Swan's google came back desk top but you are right having your name on the front page dose not make you a better audiophile







if its what you enjoy listening to continue doing so







(but if you ever feel like getting something new just stop by these guy's have the lowdown on some great stuff)

ps be careful what you toss from the attic there can be gems hiding amongst the cobwebs


----------



## Steggy

i know right? i'm so sad of things i could have saved if i knew a little more about them when i was younger haha. our 486 computer, our turntable, the speakers that went with it, along with other long gone goodnesses :'(


----------



## Luda

pardon the ****ing terrible quality, the lighting is total ass and my phone cam sucks, but you get the jist.


























The receiver is a Pioner VSX-519V 5x110W RMS
Speakers are Klipsch KM4 KG3.5's

This is replacing my logitech 5.1 and even without the center/rear/subwoofer it already sounds 100x better. the horns in the Klipsch repoduce the highs beutifully and down to about 100hz the mid ranges handle it great, still need a subwoofer but im working on that.


----------



## H3||scr3am

nice pop can pyramid


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Wooops, forgot to post my proof pic.










Desk has gotta go.


----------



## drjoey1500

Nice. Those look really good. What's wrong with the desk?

For those of you who have floor-standers, how is the nearfield response? I would've thought it wouldn't sound good so close to big speakers, and off axis that much. Just interested because my loudspeakers don't sound their best until I'm about 4' away, and it kind of puzzles me how to set up a good set of floorstanders for use at a computer.

If you sit in the ideal spot, you'd have to set your desk in the middle of the room, and have a monitor in between you and the speakers







.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

I could set them up in another room and they'd still sound good.









No, I just adjust the EQ a bit depending on what I'm doing. Aside from that meh. The sound from these have a way of being everywhere... if that makes any sense.

----edit----

Oh and the desk, I just don't like it. ikea piece-o-crap. Was free though so I can complain too much. Want a glass one... mmm


----------



## Luda

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Nice. Those look really good. What's wrong with the desk?

For those of you who have floor-standers, how is the nearfield response? I would've thought it wouldn't sound good so close to big speakers, and off axis that much. Just interested because my loudspeakers don't sound their best until I'm about 4' away, and it kind of puzzles me how to set up a good set of floorstanders for use at a computer.

If you sit in the ideal spot, you'd have to set your desk in the middle of the room, and have a monitor in between you and the speakers







.

you would be correct, but you and can get a good soundfield with the speakers that close if you have the receiver setup right, mine sound pretty damn good at my computer.

but they do sound better on my couch about 5' behind me


----------



## jarble

hey guys sorry Ive been MIA I was in France for a bit









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Luda*


pardon the ****ing terrible quality, the lighting is total ass and my phone cam sucks, but you get the jist.


























The receiver is a Pioner VSX-519V 5x110W RMS 
Speakers are Klipsch KM4 KG3.5's

This is replacing my logitech 5.1 and even without the center/rear/subwoofer it already sounds 100x better. the horns in the Klipsch repoduce the highs beutifully and down to about 100hz the mid ranges handle it great, still need a subwoofer but im working on that.


Ill get you up on the list









Quote:



Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED*


Wooops, forgot to post my proof pic.










Desk has gotta go.


vera nice









Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


Nice. Those look really good. What's wrong with the desk?

For those of you who have floor-standers, how is the nearfield response? I would've thought it wouldn't sound good so close to big speakers, and off axis that much. Just interested because my loudspeakers don't sound their best until I'm about 4' away, and it kind of puzzles me how to set up a good set of floorstanders for use at a computer.

If you sit in the ideal spot, you'd have to set your desk in the middle of the room, and have a monitor in between you and the speakers







.


there are so many thing that go into speaker placement front port, rear port, room size, shape etc but for the most part setting the speakers on ether side of the pc is the easiest and allows you to sit back when you realy want to listen







but its all personal preference for me I run a second (lower end) system for my pc and the towers are for listening only









as for the nearfield on my towers I would say that they still image fairly well up to 4ft beyond that they sound behind me


----------



## bobfig

hay guys im thinking on making some 2 way book shelf speakers with in the next few weeks.
just wondering if any one here has tried to make some? my biggest problem is going to be the crossovers.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


hay guys im thinking on making some 2 way book shelf speakers with in the next few weeks.
just wondering if any one here has tried to make some? my biggest problem is going to be the crossovers.


check out gr research. you can get a kit


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


check out gr research. you can get a kit


thanks soloz2 but i really dont want a kit. i want the challenge of making my own im just doing research now and i think i got the speakers i want to use chosen.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


thanks soloz2 but i really dont want a kit. i want the challenge of making my own im just doing research now and i think i got the speakers i want to use chosen.


I wanna see!


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED*


I wanna see!










see what ???? lol i just said i have chosen my speakers i think ima use. if u wana go over what im thinking of doing then ill be happy to pass it on so u can look over the plan im taking.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
see what ???? lol i just said i have chosen my speakers i think ima use. if u wana go over what im thinking of doing then ill be happy to pass it on so u can look over the plan im taking.










Ya... I just wanna see the speakers you chose. Are you going to hand craft the speakers themselves or something?


----------



## bobfig

ahhh ok i thought u wanted to see the finnished stuff lol.

thinking this woofer:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-3870

with this tweeter:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=275-075


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


ahhh ok i thought u wanted to see the finnished stuff lol.

thinking this woofer:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-3870

with this tweeter:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=275-075


It's amazing how cheap you can get them for. I'd go overboard for sure.

BEHOLD! THE GREAT WALL OF SPEAKERS!


----------



## bobfig

ya decent drivers are fairly cheep. but its the crossover that screws you over. there usuly cost the same or more then the speaker your using.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
ya decent drivers are fairly cheep. but its the crossover that screws you over. there usuly cost the same or more then the speaker your using.

to true

I cant wait to see what cabinets your mad mind had come up with


----------



## drjoey1500

I dunno if you want the challenge of designing them yourself, or how much you know about speaker building, but this guy has done a ton of research, designing, and building. One of his plans would do well







.

Like I said, I don't know how much you know about speaker building, but DIYaudio is a good place to get help







. The forum is actually being upgraded soon...thankfully







.

Good luck, keep us updated







.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


I dunno if you want the challenge of designing them yourself, or how much you know about speaker building, but this guy has done a ton of research, designing, and building. One of his plans would do well







.

Like I said, I don't know how much you know about speaker building, but DIYaudio is a good place to get help







. The forum is actually being upgraded soon...thankfully







.

Good luck, keep us updated







.


thanks, i have been to those sites and read lots of stuff already. i have built sub boxes and they have turned out grate. i am using a program that helps design the boxes ,"BassBox6 Pro", so im good in that department. im more reconsidering on what cone materiel to use. using a metal cone im thinking gives it a hard, sharp sound. while the paper style cone hase a smoother sound. im also thinking on crossing over at around a 3000-3100hz with a "Linkwitz-Riley" style crossover.

i also attached the cabinet design im most likely going with.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


thanks, i have been to those sites and read lots of stuff already. i have built sub boxes and they have turned out grate. i am using a program that helps design the boxes ,"BassBox6 Pro", so im good in that department. im more reconsidering on what cone materiel to use. using a metal cone im thinking gives it a hard, sharp sound. while the paper style cone hase a smoother sound. im also thinking on crossing over at around a 3000-3100hz with a "Linkwitz-Riley" style crossover.

i also attached the cabinet design im most likely going with.


I know you probably alreddy know this but dont forget about other driver materials carbon-fiber etc as each one has a bit different sound







.


----------



## bobfig

k guys u have changed my mind on my woofers and decided on new ones from Peerless. i have also redone the box to a slightly more complex design to allow the woofer magnet and tweeter magnet to be in the same "plane" or what ever you call it. i like the look a little more also. oh and i stll am going to use the same tweeter and bring the crossover at 2800Hz.

ITS THE BOTTOM DESIGN. top is the old version.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


k guys u have changed my mind on my woofers and decided on new ones from Peerless. i have also redone the box to a slightly more complex design to allow the woofer magnet and tweeter magnet to be in the same "plane" or what ever you call it. i like the look a little more also. oh and i stll am going to use the same tweeter and bring the crossover at 2800Hz.

ITS THE BOTTOM DESIGN. top is the old version.


Looks good, is your driver sealed back or no ?. Make sure your cabnit is sized properly.

Also, do you have good wood working skills, as the new design will need it a bit more.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


k guys u have changed my mind on my woofers and decided on new ones from Peerless. i have also redone the box to a slightly more complex design to allow the woofer magnet and tweeter magnet to be in the same "plane" or what ever you call it. i like the look a little more also. oh and i stll am going to use the same tweeter and bring the crossover at 2800Hz.

ITS THE BOTTOM DESIGN. top is the old version.


I like it but I have one question is the tweeter sealed or open?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LukeG*


Looks good, is your driver sealed back or no ?. Make sure your cabnit is sized properly.

Also, do you have good wood working skills, as the new design will need it a bit more.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


I like it but I have one question is the tweeter sealed or open?


idk if the tweeter is open or closed if i get it and its open ill make a box around it to seal it off.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
idk if the tweeter is open or closed if i get it and its open ill make a box around it to seal it off.


----------



## solidsquirrell

add me









Current 7.0







Setup

Yamaha HTR 6160 7.2 Ch

6 (F, R, SL, SR, SBL, SBR)Pioneer S HF21
Center Polk Audio CS1

**Just placed an order for
2 Polk Audio Monitor 60 F, R









no sub yet, i live in an apartment, though I' will eventually order the Polk Audio PSW505B


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell*


add me









Current 7.0







Setup

Yamaha HTR 6160 7.2 Ch

6 (F, R, SL, SR, SBL, SBR)Pioneer S HF21
Center Polk Audio CS1

**Just placed an order for 
2 Polk Audio Monitor 60 F, R









no sub yet, i live in an apartment, though I' will eventually order the Polk Audio PSW505B



got you in there m8


----------



## chinesekiwi

Well, I got some Tannoy Fusion 1 coming if that's anything


----------



## SpammisT

X540


----------



## Aura

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SpammisT*


X540










Please take time to read the first post.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

And pictures people, pictures!


----------



## Steggy

well i guess i might be in the club now. got new speakers. here's a copy of a thread i made at head-fi asking for information on any of these components

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Steggy*
So, long story short, on my last day of work at a job, one of my coworkers who i talked to music a lot with was kind enough to bestow upon me one of his old turntables and speakers dusted off from his basement. he also lent me a preamp and amp for a bit. i only have like 20 records or so, and i'm not familiar with the vinyl scene. i know dual and pio and brands of that such are good, but was wondering if you guys had any info on these components.

Scott ps-150 turntable
artcessories preamp
sonic impact t amp
yamaha ns-a526

thanks!

I'll take some pictures once i haul away my old desk from my room and replace it with like a cheap short table from target. i have a side table from there, and they have a longer version. hopefully it isn't really tall, or i'll just get more of the square side tables


----------



## jarble

updated


----------



## Steggy

temp setup. buying another mini table like the one pictured, but long enough to fit all of the components on there.


----------



## soloz2

just get speaker stands


----------



## chinesekiwi

Loving my new Fusion 1's









Best aspects about it are the imaging (depth) and the detail of them = great.
Looks very sexy too!









Finally put in a new PSU in my comp and well, instant sound upgrade tbh.
The Vantec ION2+ 550W is known for low ripple as well. Better detail and less clipping.
Don't underestimate the power supply in sound.

These two definitely isn't placebo as I am a skeptic with a lot of things in audio. (+ scientifically lower ripple on F2K's oscilloscope visualisation, although of course I dunno how accurate it is).


----------



## Aura

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/s...g/emp-tek-e5ti

Should I go for it? My Nak receiver is just sitting around...


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aura*


http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/s...g/emp-tek-e5ti

Should I go for it? My Nak receiver is just sitting around...



They look good to me. You may not need a sub depending on what you're doing too.

Don't know if you saw but they're only 30" tall. That's the only negative to me.


----------



## Aura

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED*


They look good to me. You may not need a sub depending on what you're doing too.

Don't know if you saw but they're only 30" tall. That's the only negative to me.


Doubtful on a sub, my current full-range speakers have a fair amount of roll-off in the low end and I've been plenty happy with them nonetheless.

Technically they're 35.5", my mains are 41.5", so not too much shorter. Still a good height for when I'm sitting on my couch.


----------



## drjoey1500

You guys should really think about building them yourself if you have the tools and someplace to work in. There are plenty of designs out there, and from what I've read, I think you'd save quite a bit of money, especially on higher-end stuff.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Doubtful on a sub, my current full-range speakers have a fair amount of roll-off in the low end and I've been plenty happy with them nonetheless.

Technically they're 35.5", my mains are 41.5", so not too much shorter. Still a good height for when I'm sitting on my couch.

Yeah, 35.5", my bad.


----------



## biatchi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
You guys should really think about building them yourself if you have the tools and someplace to work in. There are plenty of designs out there, and from what I've read, I think you'd save quite a bit of money, especially on higher-end stuff.

Funny you should mention that as I have just remembered ages ago I bought everything needed to build some and I'm just waiting for the camera to charge to take some pics of the parts


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *biatchi* 
Funny you should mention that as I have just remembered ages ago I bought everything needed to build some and I'm just waiting for the camera to charge to take some pics of the parts









Wut? So you built them or you just remembered that you have the parts you need _to_ build them? Either way, GIMME PIX!


----------



## biatchi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 
Wut? So you built them or you just remembered that you have the parts you need _to_ build them? Either way, GIMME PIX!

I've got the parts.


----------



## oliverw92

How do you guys rate my chair? Hand designed and made soldered the amplifier, sits under the chair. Rated at 60W per channel, set up for stereo. Got it rigged up with my 5.1 for some 7.1 goodness (yeh i know it isn't real 7.1, i have it set up using realtek audio control to do software 7.1).

The speakers aren't anything particularly amazing, some Mutant-X coaxials.

I made the chair myself, it's dam comfortable!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/s...g/emp-tek-e5ti

Should I go for it? My Nak receiver is just sitting around...

are you replacing your moths





















if not then go for them


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/s...g/emp-tek-e5ti

Should I go for it? My Nak receiver is just sitting around...

only if a certain pair of moth speakers find their way to my house... I've got a nice 5wpc amp here


----------



## Aura

http://www.head-case.org/forums/audi...dio-ec2a3.html

If interested lmk.

I won't be replacing with those other speakers I linked, probably monitors instead. It's a sad day to see me put these up.


----------



## Quantum Man

Dynaudio BM5a's. I know they are way too high, but they do fine for casual music listening and gaming. I bought them originally for mixing at home but have since moved on from audio engineering to a different career.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
http://www.head-case.org/forums/audi...dio-ec2a3.html

If interested lmk.

I won't be replacing with those other speakers I linked, probably monitors instead. It's a sad day to see me put these up.

I kinda want that amp, but gosh I'd never get my wife to agree after the measly bonus I got last month


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
http://www.head-case.org/forums/audi...dio-ec2a3.html

If interested lmk.

I won't be replacing with those other speakers I linked, probably monitors instead. It's a sad day to see me put these up.

Are those drivers flush mounted ? or ontop ? I can not tell from the picture.

What speakers are you changing to ?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
http://www.head-case.org/forums/audi...dio-ec2a3.html

If interested lmk.

I won't be replacing with those other speakers I linked, probably monitors instead. It's a sad day to see me put these up.

sad day indeed my friend









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Quantum Man* 
Dynaudio BM5a's. I know they are way too high, but they do fine for casual music listening and gaming. I bought them originally for mixing at home but have since moved on from audio engineering to a different career.











Ill get you up on the list


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I kinda want that amp, but gosh I'd never get my wife to agree after the measly bonus I got last month









Heh, no worries Jacob.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
Are those drivers flush mounted ? or ontop ? I can not tell from the picture.

What speakers are you changing to ?

They are mounted flush with the enclosure. Not sure what monitors I'm going to get; I plan on taking a lot of time with this purchase and do some proper demo'ing before I make a decision. I will say that the Totem Model 1 looks like something I would really enjoy though -










Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
sad day indeed my friend









You know, I'm not really feeling that bad about it now. I have been through a lot of gear and never really regretted unloading anything. It is fun to get to hear so many different variations on music reproduction. Eventually I think you just learn to appreciate everything for its own unique flavor.


----------



## soloz2

I have a friend with a couple pairs of totems and they are simply fantastic. I think you would like them, a good transition from single driver to traditional multi-driver speakers. Not a lot of bass or impact, but they just sound fantastic.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
You know, I'm not really feeling that bad about it now. I have been through a lot of gear and never really regretted unloading anything. It is fun to get to hear so many different variations on music reproduction. Eventually I think you just learn to appreciate everything for its own unique flavor.


true. I hope you enjoy what ever speakers you get next


----------



## charbs152

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 
I've got a pair of these thingies hooked up to my PC. (CLS-12)










They're ugly but they get 'er dun. (I'll take a pic when my sister returns my camera..)

I get cookie?


they are not ugly. i love cerwin vegas!

i cannot post my audio setup because im at college right now, but i have my fathers old setup. all of this gear is old and from the 80's. my father bought all of this brand new when he was in college.

receiver Onkyo TX-27 (from the early to mid 80's)
i dont know how many watts it outputs but its a 4 Ohm amp

EQ - an old radioshack EQ with 10 bands per channel

CD - JVC i dont know the model its around 10 years old

Speakers - they are custom made buy a guy who had a business that was near my fathers college. they sound great and they are over 20 years old.
they a 3 way speaker and run at 4 Ohms with 2 bass drivers, a big midrange and a big tweater.

EDIT ive uploaded pics of the receiver, its not mine its just some pics that i found on the internet.


----------



## _02

Put me in for a set of M-Audio BX5a's

^ Cerwin Vega is nice!

Woot audio


----------



## spice003

i like your avatar charbs152.


----------



## charbs152

Quote:


Originally Posted by *spice003* 
i like your avatar charbs152.


lol.. thanks it was made by a fellow member of this forum


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charbs152* 
they are not ugly. i love cerwin vegas!

i cannot post my audio setup because im at college right now, but i have my fathers old setup. all of this gear is old and from the 80's. my father bought all of this brand new when he was in college.

receiver Onkyo TX-27 (from the early to mid 80's)
i dont know how many watts it outputs but its a 4 Ohm amp

EQ - an old radioshack EQ with 10 bands per channel

CD - JVC i dont know the model its around 10 years old

Speakers - they are custom made buy a guy who had a business that was near my fathers college. they sound great and they are over 20 years old.
they a 3 way speaker and run at 4 Ohms with 2 bass drivers, a big midrange and a big tweater.

EDIT ive uploaded pics of the receiver, its not mine its just some pics that i found on the internet.

custom







pics are a must have as I still need my daily speaker p0rn fix









Quote:


Originally Posted by *_02* 
Put me in for a set of M-Audio BX5a's

^ Cerwin Vega is nice!

Woot audio


got you guys in









edit just counted our member list we are almost to 100 members







its great to see how far this thread has come


----------



## Aura

This was the first listen I had with my new PSB Platinum M2's.


----------



## TUDJ

ooooh, nice









How much did they set you back?


----------



## Aura

It was a partial trade for my Moth gear, he valued the pair at $1,000 with stands included (+ further cash to cover the value of the gear on my side). Quite a deal I would say, since the M2 normally sells for about a grand with the regular, and more common, black finish with stands not included. The msrp for M2's with stands is around $2,500. It is the "best" monitor they offer; the platinum series in general is supposed to be their reference/statement line. Here's a good review if anyone is further interested.

I am currently amping with my Nak AV7 integrated, which isn't noteworthy by any means except for the fact that I have been astounded by how good these M2's sound when paired with a component that I paid $70 for. Really no competition between these and the Moth Cicadas. I'd say the Moth's did just as well (maybe better) in the midrange, but that is it. The rest of the freq. range, imaging, soundstage - both depth and width -, neutrality/lack of coloration (if you prefer that type of sound) are all better with the M2's.

So yeah, I'm pretty happy so far







.

Edit - took of my own gear update for ya Jarble







.


----------



## .Style

How are the Wharfdale 9.1's? They are Â£100 online for a pair, and I was looking at a pair of behringer's but was told they are crap...

Wharfdale 9.1 any good then?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
It was a partial trade for my Moth gear, he valued the pair at $1,000 with stands included (+ further cash to cover the value of the gear on my side). Quite a deal I would say, since the M2 normally sells for about a grand with the regular, and more common, black finish with stands not included. The msrp for M2's with stands is around $2,500. It is the "best" monitor they offer; the platinum series in general is supposed to be their reference/statement line. Here's a good review if anyone is further interested.

I am currently amping with my Nak AV7 integrated, which isn't noteworthy by any means except for the fact that I have been astounded by how good these M2's sound when paired with a component that I paid $70 for. Really no competition between these and the Moth Cicadas. I'd say the Moth's did just as well (maybe better) in the midrange, but that is it. The rest of the freq. range, imaging, soundstage - both depth and width -, neutrality/lack of coloration (if you prefer that type of sound) are all better with the M2's.

So yeah, I'm pretty happy so far







.

Edit - took of my own gear update for ya Jarble







.

impatient aren't you







glad you like them









Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Style* 
How are the Wharfdale 9.1's? They are Â£100 online for a pair, and I was looking at a pair of behringer's but was told they are crap...

Wharfdale 9.1 any good then?

while I can not speak for the 9.1's I can speak for 9 line I love my 9.5's they are extremely forgiving with source, sound fantastic. after getting them in my room and hearing them I would have paid retail for them. I would go on about the sound but the 9.5's have 24" of driver surface area so they will sound a lot different than the 9.1's


----------



## chinesekiwi

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 









mmmm... can afford nice and expensive audio...can't afford flat LCD TV lols


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesekiwi*


mmmm... can afford nice and expensive audio...can't afford flat LCD TV lols










hey... in my living room I have a Marantz SA8001 & Oppo BDP-83, as well as a Marantz SR7001 driving a pair of av123 ELT525T and ULW10 subs and Monster HTS5100 power center... and a 27" TV









It's all about the music, all about the music!


----------



## Aura

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesekiwi*


mmmm... can afford nice and expensive audio...can't afford flat LCD TV lols




















It really has nothing to do with money, though admittedly I'd rather save cash for something that I'll actually use. I rarely watch tv for anything but sports, and even then that isn't daily.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aura*











This was the first listen I had with my new PSB Platinum M2's.












I like how those Moth's are pushed away to the side.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aura*











It really has nothing to do with money, though admittedly I'd rather save cash for something that I'll actually use. I rarely watch tv for anything but sports, and even then that isn't daily.


Don't you ever watch movies? Do you have any idea how good the Dark Knight would sound on those







(Really good soundtrack btw)

That CRT is sad. At least give it a decent paint job


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 









I like how those Moth's are pushed away to the side.









They weren't neglected for very long.



















Btw Jacob, that is a Peachtree Audio Nova you see on that rack. The amp portion isn't actually that great, probably about the level of a T-Amp, but the rest of the unit is solid. Sherwood is obsessed with the source portion of it. And it looks real sexy to boot.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Don't you ever watch movies? Do you have any idea how good the Dark Knight would sound on those







(Really good soundtrack btw)

That CRT is sad. At least give it a decent paint job









Now here is a coincidence. Not less than an hour ago I benchmarked the M2's with one clip from the Dark Knight, just to see how they fare with movies.

They do very damn well. I might need to buy a new tv now.

God help me.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
hey... in my living room I have a Marantz SA8001 & Oppo BDP-83, as well as a Marantz SR7001 driving a pair of av123 ELT525T and ULW10 subs and Monster HTS5100 power center... and a 27" TV









It's all about the music, all about the music!

lol I basically have the same setup, but I have a Marantz SR8001, the same OPPO BD-83, and a Hanspree 28" LCD lol... and... wait for it...

4x AV123 ELT525T
1x AV123 ELT525C
1x AV123 MFW-15

full 5.1 on a 28"er









oh yeah, and 60GB PS3, Wii, and Xbox 360 Elite... and I don't have cable... lol, it's all about the HTPC


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *.Style*


How are the Wharfdale 9.1's? They are Â£100 online for a pair, and I was looking at a pair of behringer's but was told they are crap...

Wharfdale 9.1 any good then?


They are great, I'd say they are the best you'll get for Â£100.

They were seen as a class leader when they were up at Â£150+. If you are a basshead you might want to add a sub later on, but that will be the same for any standmount speaker.


----------



## Protezione

I'm in. Yamaha NS-10M speakers on my Studio A Pro Tools Rig







Some very lovely flat responding speakers.


----------



## Straits Fan

I've got two setups. One in my parents house, and one in my dorm.

In my parents house I have 2 Wharfedale Modus Eight speakers which are 125W at 8Ohm. They have a sensitivity of 90.0dB.

The amp is a Pioneer Receiver: SX-305RDS. The source is a Sony CD-player: CDP-XE570.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Protezione* 
I'm in. Yamaha NS-10M speakers on my Studio A Pro Tools Rig







Some very lovely flat responding speakers.










Quite a sick little studio you've got there.







Is that a Samson Servo tucked up in the corner driving the Yamahas?


----------



## solidsquirrell

Anyone know how to make some cheap soundproof boards to place on the wall or ceiling?


----------



## Chipp

If you are looking to deaden a room (reduce echo or make a more acoustically neutral environment) that can be accomplished. I have a feeling you are looking for real sound isolation though, which for all intents and purposes cannot be done without extensive renovations.


----------



## solidsquirrell

correct, I am looking to deaden my room as much as can be possible, for cheap and without extensive renovations. I live in an apartment, so I am limited in that regard.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell* 
correct, I am looking to deaden my room as much as can be possible, for cheap and without extensive renovations. I live in an apartment, so I am limited in that regard.

Rugs or carpet is a great start - your goals will basically be to minimize surfaces that are hard, flat, or both. I'm fond of the Auralex SonoSuede products for places where you dont want it to look like you're acoustically treating a room.

http://www.auralex.com/sonosuede_hd/default.asp


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
hey... in my living room I have a Marantz SA8001 & Oppo BDP-83, as well as a Marantz SR7001 driving a pair of av123 ELT525T and ULW10 subs and Monster HTS5100 power center... and a 27" TV









It's all about the music, all about the music!

I dont even have a tv









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Protezione* 
I'm in. Yamaha NS-10M speakers on my Studio A Pro Tools Rig







Some very lovely flat responding speakers.










sick setup you have there man









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Straits Fan* 
I've got two setups. One in my parents house, and one in my dorm.

In my parents house I have 2 Wharfedale Modus Eight speakers which are 125W at 8Ohm. They have a sensitivity of 90.0dB.

The amp is a Pioneer Receiver: SX-305RDS. The source is a Sony CD-player: CDP-XE570.



















you only gave one setup there m8







but I will get you in for that


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Btw Jacob, that is a Peachtree Audio Nova you see on that rack. The amp portion isn't actually that great, probably about the level of a T-Amp, but the rest of the unit is solid. Sherwood is obsessed with the source portion of it. And it looks real sexy to boot.


funny you should mention that... I'm looking at the pictures and that's the first thing that popped out at me, then I read your note! lol

I'm very pleased with the $200 amp I picked up, I wish I had the Gizmo, or virtue two on hand to compare, but I would say it is right inbetween the two in detail and the leader in just sounding 'right'

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
lol I basically have the same setup, but I have a Marantz SR8001, the same OPPO BD-83, and a Hanspree 28" LCD lol... and... wait for it...

4x AV123 ELT525T
1x AV123 ELT525C
1x AV123 MFW-15

full 5.1 on a 28"er









oh yeah, and 60GB PS3, Wii, and Xbox 360 Elite... and I don't have cable... lol, it's all about the HTPC









Yep, ELT525T mains, ELT525C and ELT525M surrounds, which aren't even hooked up at the moment. I have more speakers than I have room for them... two ULW10's with the new 500w amps running stereo, and I'm thinking about picking up a third for my office setup.

Also in the living room I have a 360 and a Wii. I'm lacking the PS3, but I do have the power center to make up for it









I don't have cable either. I told Time Warner to go (I'll let you fill in the blank) after my bill went up several months in a row. I stream netflix using he 360 and am seriously considering an Apple TV running Boxee to stream other internet video and my iTunes library (all Apple Lossless) I tried TVersity but it just doesn't seem to work that well...


----------



## Straits Fan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
I dont even have a tv









sick setup you have there man









you only gave one setup there m8







but I will get you in for that









Oh right sorry, I forgot to say that I'll post the other one later when I've got some pictures. Sorry again.


----------



## charbs152

Quote:


Originally Posted by *chinesekiwi* 
mmmm... can afford nice and expensive audio...can't afford flat LCD TV lols









id rather have high end audio than a flat tv


----------



## charbs152

does anyone know where i can get an EQ with at least 10 bands. i went to all the audio stores with in 60 miles from my house and all they sell is home theater ****. with tiny speakers. they are rude because i still have a 2.0 setup and i DONT want surround. what happened to the stores when you could go into the listening room and hook an amp up to what ever speakers you wanted and crank the music cd of your chioce??

im only 19 but i can remember going to these stores with my father when i was young, now there are NONE!

its sad what this generation has come to with music quality

i find it funny and sad that i get snobbed at those stores because i dont have 5.1


----------



## spice003

can you guys update my setup. polk audio psw 303 is out energy ESW-V10 is in. will be ordering rc-50 and RCLCR next month.
some pics.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:

can you guys update my setup. polk audio psw 303 is out energy ESW-V10 is in. will be ordering rc-50 and RCLCR next month.
some pics.









Nice piano finish. Although I have never heard energy. Do they make a lot of port noise ? Someone told me this a while back.


----------



## spice003

i wouldn't say a lot compared to psw303 at high volume. the bass overpowers the port noise.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charbs152* 
does anyone know where i can get an EQ with at least 10 bands. i went to all the audio stores with in 60 miles from my house and all they sell is home theater ****. with tiny speakers. they are rude because i still have a 2.0 setup and i DONT want surround. what happened to the stores when you could go into the listening room and hook an amp up to what ever speakers you wanted and crank the music cd of your chioce??

im only 19 but i can remember going to these stores with my father when i was young, now there are NONE!

its sad what this generation has come to with music quality

i find it funny and sad that i get snobbed at those stores because i dont have 5.1

for an EQ like that your best bet will be to look vintage or pro, try a guitar center.


----------



## Chipp

I highly recommend DBX for reasonably priced, but solidly built GEQs - check out the 215, it sounds like what you want.


----------



## spice003

so i just watched the new xman movie with my new sub, and all i can say is wow, it sounds so much better, the bass freq go down so low, didn't even hear the port noise at all. there is so many sound effects in that movie its crazy.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

What the heck is port noise? Is it a wooshy air noise that comes from the port or something? ... A speaker fart?







That could be awkward..


----------



## bobfig

port noise is the air when the sub hits a beet the air whooshes in and out of the port making unwanted noise. it happens when the port is to small.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

OK, so it is a speaker fart


----------



## bobfig

sure its on long fart till you turn the speaker off lmao


----------



## Chipp

Or get sealed subs.

Or horn loaded subs.


----------



## Nick911

Altec Lansing 4.1

Attachment 123432

Good old speakers

Don't see anyone with altec or even ones I have.
Are these speakers good compaired to the competition or what? Terms of specs and sorts cause I have no clue and anyone know how to stop the dam hissing sound when my speakers are just on?


----------



## charbs152

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
for an EQ like that your best bet will be to look vintage or pro, try a guitar center.

yea all i have ever been able to find is pro. its made for rack mounting and they are huge and it wont look right at all. theres got to be something else


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charbs152* 
does anyone know where i can get an EQ with at least 10 bands. i went to all the audio stores with in 60 miles from my house and all they sell is home theater ****. with tiny speakers. they are rude because i still have a 2.0 setup and i DONT want surround. what happened to the stores when you could go into the listening room and hook an amp up to what ever speakers you wanted and crank the music cd of your chioce??

im only 19 but i can remember going to these stores with my father when i was young, now there are NONE!

its sad what this generation has come to with music quality

i find it funny and sad that i get snobbed at those stores because i dont have 5.1

iff your willing to wate
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...TOKEN=73173927


----------



## charbs152

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
iff your willing to wate
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...TOKEN=73173927

does anyone know the quality of this?


----------



## Chipp

Audiosource generally is not bad gear - I have no experience with that particular unit though. I believe it is probably overpriced for what you're getting. 2x10 is not that much EQ.

However, what are you looking to accomplish with EQ? There might be another (better) way to get the same thing.


----------



## bobfig

you could always serve the flea bay.
http://electronics.shop.ebay.com/Hom...=p3286.c0.m282


----------



## charbs152

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Audiosource generally is not bad gear - I have no experience with that particular unit though. I believe it is probably overpriced for what you're getting. 2x10 is not that much EQ.

However, what are you looking to accomplish with EQ? There might be another (better) way to get the same thing.


Im looking to use it with my receiver. Onkyo tx-27

i have an OLD realistic eq with 10 bands but it died. i think some of the screws cam loose on the feet or something and somehow got into the unit causing it to die. i really need an EQ though, it makes a huge difference

i actually found the same one on eBay!

http://cgi.ebay.com/REALISTIC-10-BAN...d=p3286.c0.m14

AND

http://cgi.ebay.com/Realistic-wide-r...d=p3286.c0.m14


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *charbs152* 
Im looking to use it with my receiver. Onkyo tx-27

i have an OLD radioshack eq with 10 bands but it died. i think some of the screws cam loose on the feet or something and somehow got into the unit causing it to die. i really need an EQ though, it makes a huge difference

I think ultimately you'd be better off with room treatments and maybe better gear


----------



## charbs152

there is nothing wrong with that gear it sounds great. just because its not new doesnt mean it bad

it sounds fine without an EQ, but i like to fine tune it


----------



## Chipp

Dont go for the same Radio Shack EQ (yes, thats who made Realistic). I'd spring for a modern model.


----------



## Reista

I would like to join =] custom build speaker box, assortment of speakers and an internal amp -


----------



## spice003

uh no


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reista* 
I would like to join =] custom build speaker box, assortment of speakers and an internal amp -









Odd.... do you have any measurements ?.... Seems like just random drivers messed together... and for a box to look like that, I do not think there is a proper crossover in it. Info please ? I am interested.


----------



## noname

Lmao that's ghetto.


----------



## chinesekiwi

bah, cold speaker amps sound like poo-poo.


----------



## solidsquirrell

any recommendations for a subwoofer, for my setup?

I was originally/and probably still am leaning towards a polk subwoofer (PSW 505B) just, wondering if theres anything out there around the same price, that is comparable if not better than my first pick.

current setup.

Front Polk Audio Monitor 70
Surround Polk Audio Monitor 60
Center Polk Audio CS2
Rear Polk Audio CS1

S.S.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell* 
any recommendations for a subwoofer, for my setup?

I was originally/and probably still am leaning towards a polk subwoofer (PSW 505B) just, wondering if theres anything out there around the same price, that is comparable if not better than my first pick.

current setup.

Front Polk Audio Monitor 70
Surround Polk Audio Monitor 60
Center Polk Audio CS2
Rear Polk Audio CS1

S.S.

Get rid of your white van speakers, and get a ED subwoofer which would blow any polks out of the water.

ED = Elemental designs. Search there name for their site on google.


----------



## Protezione

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Quite a sick little studio you've got there.







Is that a Samson Servo tucked up in the corner driving the Yamahas?

Yea it is a samson servo. I try to stay away from samon in general, however for the price, that is a nice neutral little amp. Someday I'll upgrade, once I get more business


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Protezione* 
Yea it is a samson servo. I try to stay away from samon in general, however for the price, that is a nice neutral little amp. Someday I'll upgrade, once I get more business

I hear ya - I've got a Samson S700 driving horns in my PA when I run things bi-amped. Not a bad product, but it still would be nice to have some name recognition there when I'm explaining my gear to folks.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
Get rid of your white van speakers, and get a ED subwoofer which would blow any polks out of the water.

ED = Elemental designs. Search there name for their site on google.

since when are Polk white van speakers?


----------



## noname

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
since when are Polk white van speakers?

Since he put them in his van!


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
since when are Polk white van speakers?

Open one up, and looks at the crossover.


----------



## solidsquirrell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
Get rid of your white van speakers, and get a ED subwoofer which would blow any polks out of the water.

ED = Elemental designs. Search there name for their site on google.

umm how about no. I don't plan on getting rid of my van speakers, in fact i strongly believe they sound pretty decent, given the price i paid for them. Polk Audio may not be the best, or the Audiophiles Choice of speakers, but did you also notice that the word "audiophile" is nowhere listed below my name? If im going to carry the gonads of a true "audiophile" I would be purchasing B&W Nautilus speakers. (which I may just happen to do so in the near future)

I checked out the Elemental Designs subwoofers, and the only one that came close to the budget i put aside for a sub, was the A2-300 I've never heard of Elemental Designs, but looking from their lineup they seem to be built quite well.

so, is the A2-300 pretty good? or should I look for something else.
also, what are the differences in sound between a "sealed" subwoofer, and a "non" sealed one?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
Open one up, and looks at the crossover.

that doesn't make them white van speakers. It does make them a company that is somewhat running on fumes of the past to sell current speakers... eventually it will likely catch up with them. But the point remains, polk still does do research etc. and their speakers (even the cheaper ones) are still likely better than many white van speakers. Additionally, the whole concept of white van speaker does not fit with polk at all. Come on, you can buy polk speakers at a real store... you can't do that with white van speakers.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
that doesn't make them white van speakers. It does make them a company that is somewhat running on fumes of the past to sell current speakers... eventually it will likely catch up with them. But the point remains, polk still does do research etc. and their speakers (even the cheaper ones) are still likely better than many white van speakers. Additionally, the whole concept of white van speaker does not fit with polk at all. Come on, you can buy polk speakers at a real store... you can't do that with white van speakers.

And Polk speakers usually work the first time you plug them in, too.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell* 
umm how about no. I don't plan on getting rid of my van speakers, in fact i strongly believe they sound pretty decent, given the price i paid for them. Polk Audio may not be the best, or the Audiophiles Choice of speakers, but did you also notice that the word "audiophile" is nowhere listed below my name? If im going to carry the gonads of a true "audiophile" I would be purchasing B&W Nautilus speakers. (which I may just happen to do so in the near future)

I checked out the Elemental Designs subwoofers, and the only one that came close to the budget i put aside for a sub, was the A2-300 I've never heard of Elemental Designs, but looking from their lineup they seem to be built quite well.

so, is the A2-300 pretty good? or should I look for something else.
also, what are the differences in sound between a "sealed" subwoofer, and a "non" sealed one?

Anyone in HT would recommend you ED subwoofers for anything under 3000$.

They dont mark up there subwoofers, use crap components, or have them made in china.

I have heard the A7 line and a few a3. They are simply amazing. I own there speakers, and there customer service is unmatched. Live chat and they will talk to you 1 on 1, without the automated message and response bull.

Check out av science forum for a ton of reviews and people that own them.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
Anyone in HT would recommend you ED subwoofers for anything under 3000$.

They dont mark up there subwoofers, use crap components, or have them made in china.

I have heard the A7 line and a few a3. They are simply amazing. I own there speakers, and there customer service is unmatched. Live chat and they will talk to you 1 on 1, without the automated message and response bull.

Check out av science forum for a ton of reviews and people that own them.

while it's true ED has some pretty decent subs for the money, there are many other subs to consider such as JL, Velodine, Sunfire, av123, etc.

sealed vs vented is somewhat preference and somewhat needs orientated. A ported sub will be larger and typically hit lower with the same size driver and amp. However, the sealed sub will tend to be faster, more musical and tighter. Simple physics dictate that the smaller the box (less volume) the harder a driver has to work for a given output. This means small sealed box subs typically have overbuilt drivers and higher power amplifiers.
I have two 10" subs in small sealed boxes with 500wRMS amps and I wouldn't trade them for larger ported subs.


----------



## TI66ER

I replaced my old sony amp with a bargain denon avr-1905 that i got for Â£40 with box/remote and book.I cant afford a big sub,so i just have a small ported 50w sony.


----------



## solidsquirrell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
while it's true ED has some pretty decent subs for the money, there are many other subs to consider such as JL, Velodine, Sunfire, av123, etc.

sealed vs vented is somewhat preference and somewhat needs orientated. A ported sub will be larger and typically hit lower with the same size driver and amp. However, the sealed sub will tend to be faster, more musical and tighter. Simple physics dictate that the smaller the box (less volume) the harder a driver has to work for a given output. This means small sealed box subs typically have overbuilt drivers and higher power amplifiers.
I have two 10" subs in small sealed boxes with 500wRMS amps and I wouldn't trade them for larger ported subs.

so would you say that sealed subs, tend to be a bit better for music playback? and vented for movie playback?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell* 
so would you say that sealed subs, tend to be a bit better for music playback? and vented for movie playback?

Everything is about compromise; and as such, what you buy is all about where your priorities are. Assuming you're comparing equally well designed products, you can generally get more volume from ported or horn boxes than a sealed box with the same sensitivity and power input (though often at the expense of transient response).

I wouldn't generalise it to movies vs music, but rather, would just say that if you are looking for significant bass impact it might be worth exploring ported designs. If your listening is predominantly at lower volume levels, a sealed design might be able to offer you more accuracy.


----------



## edgeh2o

Hello everyone, I'd be down to join the club. My setup goes as follows:

Living room: Onkyo TX-SR707, AV123 ELT525 5.0, SVS PB10-NSD
Bedroom: Onkyo TX-SR506, AV123 X-LS Encore 2.0, Mirage Omni S8

solidsquerrell: The A2-300 link you provided actually took me to the A3-250 page. Before I got my SVS PB10-NSD, I was strongly considering ED's offerings, and it wasn't until much research that I finally decided on the SVS, mainly because I read it was slightly better for music, and I preferred the look of the front firing driver to ED's down firing driver.

In my research I spoke to ED countless times, and they recommended the A2-300 even over the slightly more expensive A3-250. Even though the A3 has more power, the A2-300's larger driver outperforms it and gives greater bass output.

For $350 you absolutely can not go wrong with the A2-300. I also recommend checking out SVS, they have a track record of excellent customer service and outstanding sound quality. Oh and also check out HSU.

And for anyone interested, if you haven't already, check out this thread where numerous subwoofers are reviewed and ranked.

Also, about the whole sealed vs ported thing. I have sealed in my car because in my opinion it offers greater sound quality, however for home theater I would use ported because the port gives it extra efficiency and output. It is easier to fill a large space with bass from a ported design than sealed.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell* 
so would you say that sealed subs, tend to be a bit better for music playback? and vented for movie playback?

I think as Chipp states that's a bit of an over generalization.


----------



## solidsquirrell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Everything is about compromise; and as such, what you buy is all about where your priorities are. Assuming you're comparing equally well designed products, you can generally get more volume from ported or horn boxes than a sealed box with the same sensitivity and power input (though often at the expense of transient response).

I wouldn't generalise it to movies vs music, but rather, would just say that if you are looking for significant bass impact it might be worth exploring ported designs. If your listening is predominantly at lower volume levels, a sealed design might be able to offer you more accuracy.

thanks chipp


----------



## jarble

sorry I have been MIA as of late work has been a killer









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Reista* 
I would like to join =] custom build speaker box, assortment of speakers and an internal amp -










will add you as custom

Quote:


Originally Posted by *edgeh2o* 
Hello everyone, I'd be down to join the club. My setup goes as follows:

Living room: Onkyo TX-SR707, AV123 ELT525 5.0, SVS PB10-NSD
Bedroom: Onkyo TX-SR506, AV123 X-LS Encore 2.0, Mirage Omni S8

solidsquerrell: The A2-300 link you provided actually took me to the A3-250 page. Before I got my SVS PB10-NSD, I was strongly considering ED's offerings, and it wasn't until much research that I finally decided on the SVS, mainly because I read it was slightly better for music, and I preferred the look of the front firing driver to ED's down firing driver.

In my research I spoke to ED countless times, and they recommended the A2-300 even over the slightly more expensive A3-250. Even though the A3 has more power, the A2-300's larger driver outperforms it and gives greater bass output.

For $350 you absolutely can not go wrong with the A2-300. I also recommend checking out SVS, they have a track record of excellent customer service and outstanding sound quality. Oh and also check out HSU.

And for anyone interested, if you haven't already, check out this thread where numerous subwoofers are reviewed and ranked.

Also, about the whole sealed vs ported thing. I have sealed in my car because in my opinion it offers greater sound quality, however for home theater I would use ported because the port gives it extra efficiency and output. It is easier to fill a large space with bass from a ported design than sealed.

got you in


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

Hello, I would like to join the club. I have a pair of Teledyne Acoustic Research AR94Sx speakers. Are these good enough to qualify for the club?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter* 
Hello, I would like to join the club. I have a pair of Teledyne Acoustic Research AR94Sx speakers. Are these good enough to qualify for the club?


















well since google came up next door to zip we will go with yes







. also aren't you getting vibrations through the turn table with the speaker that close? maybe I just play my music to loud ... naw


----------



## Dyson Poindexter

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
well since google came up next door to zip we will go with yes







. also aren't you getting vibrations through the turn table with the speaker that close? maybe I just play my music to loud ... naw
















Supposedly they're worth 2-4k. I paid 30 bucks at a thrift store. They could use a refoam, though.

I tend to keep it down considering I'm in a dorm room, haha.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Dyson Poindexter* 
Supposedly they're worth 2-4k. I paid 30 bucks at a thrift store. They could use a refoam, though.

I tend to keep it down considering I'm in a dorm room, haha.

I can tell you there not worth 2-4k. Speakers dont lose there price like that. Most stereo speakers like that were bought back in the day for the same as todays shelf stereos. They dont lose prices like computer hardware etc.

You can buy a speaker for 1000$ and in a 5+ years, if its mint, sell it for the same, less, or maybe more.

Some speakers become collector items, or people that need replacements, will pay top doller.

Overall nice looking speaker.


----------



## Aura

I might be demo'ing this unit relatively soon:










TacT s2150 Digital Amplifier. The technology is fascinating; it's not an amp in reality, just a DAC with a crapload of voltage output. 300wpc into my 4 ohm PSB's = yummy.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
I might be demo'ing this unit relatively soon:










TacT s2150 Digital Amplifier. The technology is fascinating; it's not an amp in reality, just a DAC with a crapload of voltage output. 300wpc into my 4 ohm PSB's = yummy.

It might not be a traditional design, but they are still using AC line voltage to make the signal bigger somewhere in there. You dont go from ~.3 VDC from the source to several hundred times that without a little help. I'm curious to see if they have published any schematics of their designs, or if anybody has popped one open.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
I can tell you there not worth 2-4k. Speakers dont lose there price like that. Most stereo speakers like that were bought back in the day for the same as todays shelf stereos. They dont lose prices like computer hardware etc.

You can buy a speaker for 1000$ and in a 5+ years, if its mint, sell it for the same, less, or maybe more.

Some speakers become collector items, or people that need replacements, will pay top doller.

Overall nice looking speaker.

It doesn't quite work that way. Like most items demand drives prices. some speakers that are no longer made are in high demand and go for more than they originally sold for if they are in near mint condition. Other speakers sell for half or less their original selling price. However, like you said, speakers do not loose value in the way computer components do. If you buy used you can usually sell for around the price you paid (minus shipping)


----------



## Aura

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


It might not be a traditional design, but they are still using AC line voltage to make the signal bigger somewhere in there. You dont go from ~.3 VDC from the source to several hundred times that without a little help. I'm curious to see if they have published any schematics of their designs, or if anybody has popped one open.










Yeah, they are doing something to it no doubt.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Aura*


Yeah, they are doing something to it no doubt.











sexy


----------



## Aura

So nevermind the TacT.

http://springfield.craigslist.org/ele/1373239993.html

I'm *hopefully* going down to Missouri within a few weeks to get the pair.


----------



## MoMurda

I have a sony HT-IS100 setup, can I be in? Pretty neat little system because of the little speakers. I sold my old setup because it was too bulky for my room. So I got the HT-IS100 for around 280 with a 5 year warranty from frys cus it was open box, took 5% off of 500 and the system was 300 on sale. Money for selling the old system bought me this one.







It has hdmi up conversion so I was really happy. It is a decent system. Gets loud for little speakers, I want to replace the subwoofer inside there, its not too powerful.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MoMurda*


I have a sony HT-IS100 setup, can I be in? Pretty neat little system because of the little speakers. I sold my old setup because it was too bulky for my room. So I got the HT-IS100 for around 280 with a 5 year warranty from frys cus it was open box, took 5% off of 500 and the system was 300 on sale. Money for selling the old system bought me this one.







It has hdmi up conversion so I was really happy. It is a decent system. Gets loud for little speakers, I want to replace the subwoofer inside there, its not too powerful.


dang those are some tiny speakers







I'll get you on the list


----------



## SUPER PISSED




----------



## MoMurda

Haha yep, most people come in and ask where the sound is coming from when we watching a movie or playing a game. Haha.


----------



## spice003

yeah but i bet you can't get big sound out of those tiny speakers.


----------



## MoMurda

It actually gets pretty loud and its still clear and sounds great at max, and yes it doesnt produce huge sound, but my room is like 10x12 maybe so no need for big sound.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MoMurda* 
It actually gets pretty loud and its still clear and sounds great at max, and yes it doesnt produce huge sound, but my room is like 10x12 maybe so no need for big sound.

nonsense I have 48" of driver surface area in a similarly sized room









but it realy is a personal prefrance


----------



## MoMurda

Haha well I didnt ant to spend soo much, but that would be awesome to have, maybe after a few weeks at my new job I can do a lil something like that!


----------



## spice003

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MoMurda*


It actually gets pretty loud and its still clear and sounds great at max, and yes it doesnt produce huge sound, but my room is like 10x12 maybe so no need for big sound.


thats not what i meant when i said big sound.


----------



## soloz2

Just wanted to give everyone a heads up that I'm selling a great pair of speakers, a very nice CDP and some other gear:
http://www.tweakcityaudio.com/forum/...1416#post41416


----------



## spice003

if you guys can update the list that would be great.
Just bought RTI A5's from polk direct, will be here next week, and i'm selling the a1's. also go a new sub a week ago. ED A2 - 300 Subwoofer, sold the polk sub.

So Polk Audio RTi A5 fronts, CSi A4 center, R15 surrounds, ED A2 - 300 Sub.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spice003*


if you guys can update the list that would be great. 
Just bought RTI A5's from polk direct, will be here next week, and i'm selling the a1's. also go a new sub a week ago. ED A2 - 300 Subwoofer, sold the polk sub.

So Polk Audio RTi A5 fronts, CSi A4 center, R15 surrounds, ED A2 - 300 Sub.


Nice choice in subwoofer. How is it ?


----------



## spice003

very nice, when i first got it i was like







, and now i'm like


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spice003*


if you guys can update the list that would be great. 
Just bought RTI A5's from polk direct, will be here next week, and i'm selling the a1's. also go a new sub a week ago. ED A2 - 300 Subwoofer, sold the polk sub.

So Polk Audio RTi A5 fronts, CSi A4 center, R15 surrounds, ED A2 - 300 Sub.


done and done


----------



## spice003

thank you sir!


----------



## Wildcard36qs

I will take pics later tonight, but here is what I am running:
-Auzentech X-Meridian 7.1 soundcard (usually using DTS connect 24/7 for games)
-harman/kardon AVR-645 7.1 Reciever
-Fronts are Athena AS-F2.2 towers
-Center is Athena AS-C1.2
-Surrounds are Athena Point 5 MKII
-Sub is a SVS PB10-NSD


----------



## Tator Tot

Can I get added to the list.

I have the TCA Gizmo V1.0m & WAF-1 2.0 Speakers.

I'm still looking for a nice sub to compliment my setup.


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Here are some pics of my setup:




























Man I love how it all coordinates with the grey and black...


----------



## TUDJ

Looks sweet, could do with hiding some of that cable jungle though


----------



## Wildcard36qs

Yea I dont care too much about the cables. Im staying in a basement and I am constantly hooking up and moving stuff around. I'm getting married next year anyways so I'll be moving out soon.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs* 
Yea I dont care too much about the cables. Im staying in a basement and I am constantly hooking up and moving stuff around. I'm getting married next year anyways so I'll be moving out soon.

Fair enough. I'm obsessive about cables, and dust :swearing:


----------



## Wildcard36qs

I feel you. When I first moved down here and set everything up, I had it real clean and nice. But since then with things moving a lot, I just got tired of always cleaning up lol.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Can I get added to the list.

I have the TCA Gizmo V1.0m & WAF-1 2.0 Speakers.

I'm still looking for a nice sub to compliment my setup.

pics plox


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


pics plox










I'll have to borrow a camera, but you will laugh at the setup.

Trust me, having 2 of my CRT's, 2 of these WAF-1's, & my 300 on a desk at the same time....


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tator Tot*


I'll have to borrow a camera, but you will laugh at the setup.

Trust me, having 2 of my CRT's, 2 of these WAF-1's, & my 300 on a desk at the same time....










Respect to your desk for staying upright


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Respect to your desk for staying upright










I think this is where my "







" comes in perfect.

It's actually 3 desks right now









Sony & Waf 1 | NEC & Gizmo | Waf 1 A300

Along with other junk & some networking gear.


----------



## Aura

Whoops, mis-post. The M2's must be getting me all confused







.


----------



## Volvo

i know if i say i've got an altec lansing mx5021 (and many other altec lansings) you guys'll prolly bash me since it was built for computer use.

but nevermind, i shall be performing a mod for the altecs, which will include my crazy idea of adding an xlr in for microphone, as well as stereo RCA jacks. extensive modification shall also be done to the motherboard, crossovers, etc.

then maybe you guys'll lemme join right.


----------



## jarble

sorry I have not been updating lately this week was my sister 16th bday so I was a bit busy









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs* 
I will take pics later tonight, but here is what I am running:
-Auzentech X-Meridian 7.1 soundcard (usually using DTS connect 24/7 for games)
-harman/kardon AVR-645 7.1 Reciever
-Fronts are Athena AS-F2.2 towers
-Center is Athena AS-C1.2
-Surrounds are Athena Point 5 MKII
-Sub is a SVS PB10-NSD


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wildcard36qs* 
Here are some pics of my setup:




























Man I love how it all coordinates with the grey and black...

very nice Ill get you on the list









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Can I get added to the list.

I have the TCA Gizmo V1.0m & WAF-1 2.0 Speakers.

I'm still looking for a nice sub to compliment my setup.

Ill get you on the list









Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Fair enough. I'm obsessive about cables, and dust :swearing:

dust :swearing:swearing:swearing: I have thought about going piano black with my speakers but I know that if I did I would have to get a "clean room" as the dust would bug me so much I would go crazy









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
i know if i say i've got an altec lansing mx5021 (and many other altec lansings) you guys'll prolly bash me since it was built for computer use.

but nevermind, i shall be performing a mod for the altecs, which will include my crazy idea of adding an xlr in for microphone, as well as stereo RCA jacks. extensive modification shall also be done to the motherboard, crossovers, etc.

then maybe you guys'll lemme join right.









once you crack it open and go changing the innards that is what I consider a custom speaker not a pc speaker.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
sorry I have not been updating lately this week was my sister 16th bday so I was a bit busy









very nice Ill get you on the list









Ill get you on the list









dust :swearing:swearing:swearing: I have thought about going piano black with my speakers but I know that if I did I would have to get a "clean room" as the dust would bug me so much I would go crazy









once you crack it open and go changing the innards that is what I consider a custom speaker not a pc speaker.

Busy?...Like protecting your tweeters from being poked out by unsuspecting guests?







.

Seriously...people come over and I have to worry about them sticking their fingers into my speakers or fans.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


Seriously...people come over and I have to worry about them sticking their fingers into my speakers or fans.










Let them, they wont do it again


----------



## Volvo

if he's got those 120mm, 0.12A coolermaster slow fans, those can't hurt **** :lol:


----------



## Volvo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


once you crack it open and go changing the innards that is what I consider a custom speaker not a pc speaker.


custom speakers are somewhat tolerated right.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
if he's got those 120mm, 0.12A coolermaster slow fans, those can't hurt **** :lol:

Yea...next time I'll unplug that one and leave my panaflo at full speed


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Busy?...Like protecting your tweeters from being poked out by unsuspecting guests?







.

Seriously...people come over and I have to worry about them sticking their fingers into my speakers or fans.









omg any time guest come over I have to put the dust cover (grill) on as something about carbon fiber says *TOUCH ME!!!* /rant

actually I drug my entire stereo out to the party so we could have some sound to dance to.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Volvo* 
custom speakers are somewhat tolerated right.









yes custom = good


----------



## gorb

I just changed the speakers in my room. I wanted something nice and small, so I got the energy take classic 5.0 set along with some cheap sanus 24" stands, and my uncle was nice enough to buy me the matching esw-8hg sub for my birthday









My old speakers were semi-huge and a complete mismatch so while the dinky energys wont match the volume or bass, I really didn't want anything as loud as what I had for a bedroom anyway.
Old speakers:
Infinity SM152 main
JBL N-Center center (obviously lol)
Bose 501-V rears (dont hate, i bought em a decade ago when i was like 14 and didn't know any better)
JBL Venue Sub12 sub

old:








new:









i'll probably move the sub to the corner where i had the jbl sub eventually, but i dont even have all the speakers wired yet.

another thing i need is a new receiver, my current one is a yamaha rx-v795 which still sounds fine but is also a decade old and lacking all the inputs i need :/


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gorb* 
I just changed the speakers in my room. I wanted something nice and small, so I got the energy take classic 5.0 set along with some cheap sanus 24" stands, and my uncle was nice enough to buy me the matching esw-8hg sub for my birthday









My old speakers were semi-huge and a complete mismatch so while the dinky energys wont match the volume or bass, I really didn't want anything as loud as what I had for a bedroom anyway.
Old speakers:
Infinity SM152 main
JBL N-Center center (obviously lol)
Bose 501-V rears (dont hate, i bought em a decade ago when i was like 14 and didn't know any better)
JBL Venue Sub12 sub

old:








new:









i'll probably move the sub to the corner where i had the jbl sub eventually, but i dont even have all the speakers wired yet.

another thing i need is a new receiver, my current one is a yamaha rx-v795 which still sounds fine but is also a decade old and lacking all the inputs i need :/

poof there you are


----------



## Ktmrida4life

Klipsch promedia 2.1 here


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Ktmrida4life* 
Klipsch promedia 2.1 here


Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 

*2) Membership and parameters:*

Membership is site-wide, but limited insofar as to the particular sort of gear a member is running in his audio setup.

With a few other select members, we briefly discussed any limitations or parameters needed to be set on acceptance into the club. We did this because certain brands, names, sorts are simply not up to standards with what is consistently deemed as quality across the entire hobby of audio. The issue is, of course, that a brand such as Logitech, which is truly not a quality product as far as speakers go, has reached a niche market in the pc-enthusiast world and maintains popularity in it. I personally feel that someone truly engaged and interested in speakers will have moved beyond Logitech, etc., at a certain point or is considering doing so eventually. As such, _we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters._

Yes, this may stir up some controversy, but for now these are the parameters. Thanks for your cooperation and understanding.

sorry m8


----------



## Xeroni

Replaced my old Yamaha receiver with one I got from a garage sale for free, a Sony STR-DE598. I like the sound of this one more than the Yamaha. Also got some storage space for my stuff and stands for my speakers all in one, some old storage bins.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xeroni* 
Replaced my old Yamaha receiver with one I got from a garage sale for free, a Sony STR-DE598. I like the sound of this one more than the Yamaha. Also got some storage space for my stuff and stands for my speakers all in one, some old storage bins.

They're closer to being a pair of headphones than speakers


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
They're closer to being a pair of headphones than speakers









How's the positioning?


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
I might be demo'ing this unit relatively soon:










TacT s2150 Digital Amplifier. The technology is fascinating; it's not an amp in reality, just a DAC with a crapload of voltage output. 300wpc into my 4 ohm PSB's = yummy.

Well, in a surprising twist I might be going back to my old plans with this TacT. My friend is going to bring the DAC with him on Saturday for our headphone meet and I get to bring it back to my place for a (hopefully) lengthy demo/loan.


----------



## H3||scr3am

WHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the wait is over!

my 7.1 is finally coming this weekend!!!!!

4x ELT525T
1x ELT525C
2x ELT525M
1x MFW-15

whoooooo weekend surround sound setup project!

(PS, I'm stoked!)


----------



## nardox

I'm running a 2.0 setup with 2 Yamaha NS-225F floor standing speakers hooked up to Denon AVR-1908 receiver for the plasma TV right now. Can I get in plz








Will upload pics soon


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
WHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the wait is over!

my 7.1 is finally coming this weekend!!!!!

4x ELT525T
1x ELT525C
2x ELT525M
1x MFW-15

whoooooo weekend surround sound setup project!

(PS, I'm stoked!)

grats oh btw let me know what you think of that sub as I am thinking of hijacking their plans and building a set







.

ps should I keep your old system up there or clear it out?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nardox* 
I'm running a 2.0 setup with 2 Yamaha NS-225F floor standing speakers hooked up to Denon AVR-1908 receiver for the plasma TV right now. Can I get in plz








Will upload pics soon

as you request so shall it be


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
grats oh btw let me know what you think of that sub as I am thinking of hijacking their plans and building a set







.

ps should I keep your old system up there or clear it out?

as you request so shall it be









Old system is for the PC, this new system is for my "home theatre" I will own both in tandem...

thankyou, and in advance, the subwoofer in dual is supposed to beat out a lot of 1k+ models, so it's tried and true to its value, but for the price point practically unbeatable... but I still have not heard it, so I'll let you know


----------



## nardox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
as you request so shall it be









Pics of Yamaha NS-225F and Denon AVR-1908
ignore the messy background please


----------



## solidsquirrell

So first off I must say, my room in my apartment is obviously not adequate. No worries, will be moving to a larger place soon, with plenty of adequate space. ^ ^

..and sorry about the mess.. its not usually that messy









oh and I am still missing a center speaker, though I will be ordering my CS2 soon.









..and yes that is a 25.5" display







I'm all about the audio


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Nice


----------



## drjoey1500

Wow, looks nice







. How do they sound? How much of a difference is there between the 60's and 70's?


----------



## solidsquirrell

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 
Nice

thx.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Wow, looks nice







. How do they sound? How much of a difference is there between the 60's and 70's?

Big difference from 60 to 70. Those 60's are using 5.25" drivers, while the 70 is using 6.5" drivers, A lot of more and deeper bass output from the 70 compared to the 60, bigger driver bigger cabinet.

Even when my receiver is set to ouptut the front to SMALL, there is still plenty of bass.
The high's are nice and crip, and very clear.

I don't have a sub yet, I'm waiting untill I move to a larger place.

I set my crossover to 80, and all of my speakers are set to SMALL.
For Stereo listening, I'll set my fronts to LARGE.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


Originally Posted by *darthspartan* 
O why not ok here's what i run.

2 carvin trx cabs with 2x15s and one 2in horn. 1000 watts each
2 carvin trs powered 18s 700watts each
2 carvin folded 18s 1000 watts each
2 carvin mid cabs 2x 10in in each 1000watts
4 carvin high Dispersion Radial High Frequency Horns 500 watts each

Mixer Yamaha O2R









Hey ive doubled the size of my system since i posted now i also have

2 carvin double 18s 3200 watts each
2 more trx's at 1000 each

well not perfectly double theres other stuff like monitors i don't mention. old wattage 8400 new 16800. Now i need 6 20A 110v circuits to set up or 2 50A 220v circuits









Just make it Lots of Carvin times 2

Chipp hows the mackie amp doing


----------



## Chipp

Sitting idle at home.







I couldn't bring my gear to school with me.

I split the Community's into bi-amp since I finally got the upgaded I/O plate for the second one - now the Mackie drives the just the woofers and the highs are from a Samson S700.

I've decided this will be "final" until later on, though - unless I just find a killer deal on a Yamaha 01V. We'll see once I'm out of school if I decide to go the route of pursuing work with a multinational or if I decide to be a small provider on my own.


----------



## darthspartan

Ya thats basically were i am at.For now ill stay a small provider in my area but eventually i might do the live engineer thing with a band.

O1V is a good board i have a friend with one. Im moving to a M7CL soon.


----------



## Aura

As it sits now, the rig is Marantz CD5001 + TacT S2150 + PSB Platinum M2.

I will be buying the TacT; less than 24 hours is all I've needed to discover that this is definitely the best sound I have experienced from the gear I have owned, be it headphones or speakers. This is truly clear sound, so clean it's like a chalkboard that's never been written on.


----------



## AUS.R34P3R

Hey just wanted to know if these speakers qualify.
Regrettably I don't have the model number for the fronts as they were second hand from my Dad.
From what I remember, they're a pair of 30yr+ old AudioLabs that cost him a ~2 weeks wages. (A few Hundred dollars, but that was 30yrs ago...)

Front: *AudioLab* Towers (I think, the details were painted over during a restoration)

Impedance: 4 Ohms
Tweeter: 70mm
Mid: 180mm
Mid-Tweeter: 150mm (Clarion Car Speaker modded-In)

Rear: Accusound DLR-525

Frequency Response: 45-21000 Hz
Watts RMS: 25-120
Sensitivity 1W @ 1m: 89 db
Impedance: 6 Ohms
Bass Driver: 145mm
Tweeter: 25mm

Centre: Dome AV706c

Frequency Response: 70-20000 Hz
Watts RMS: 10-120
Sensitivity 1W @ 1m: 85 db
Impedance: 8 Ohms
Bass Driver: 2x 100mm
Tweeter: 25mm

Sub: DSE A2669

Frequency Response: 35-150 Hz
Watts RMS: 100-120
Sensitivity: 80 db
Impedance: 4 Ohms
Bass Driver: 10"

Amplifier: Onkyo TX-SR602

Power: 85 W/Ch
Frequency Response: 10 Hz-100 kHz (+ 1 dB, - 3 dB)


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 









As it sits now, the rig is Marantz CD5001 + TacT S2150 + PSB Platinum M2.

I will be buying the TacT; less than 24 hours is all I've needed to discover that this is definitely the best sound I have experienced from the gear I have owned, be it headphones or speakers. This is truly clear sound, so clean it's like a chalkboard that's never been written on.

Wish I had the money for one of those Tacts... I have heard it, and I know what you mean.

My local High end audio shop has them setup in a 7.3 useing there audio processor. I have not heard anything like it before. The speakers were also extreamly highend but ya. Dream setup if I win the lottery. The subwoofers they were using were crap, but was uneeded for what we were listening to.


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
Wish I had the money for one of those Tacts... I have heard it, and I know what you mean.

Heh, my initial impressions are in layman's terms, but yeah.









A few more pics of the full rig:


----------



## ericld

This is what I have.
Computer Room. JBL SCS500.1 > Yamaha HTR 5540 I use optical to connect to on board sound.

Entertainment: JBL SCS500.1 (7.1) > Onkyo TX SR606 I use my laptop as a HTPC connected via HDMI, Bluray and Power DVD 9

My wife is playing a game on her laptop in the second pic.


----------



## TUDJ

Your setup looks great Bryan









Any regrets about letting the Moth stuff go?


----------



## gorb

Aura, all that nice stuff but still sticking with a 27" sdtv? :/


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Your setup looks great Bryan









Any regrets about letting the Moth stuff go?

Thanks sir. Not one regret - this sounds so vastly superior to the previous rig that I don't have anything to complain about







.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gorb* 
Aura, all that nice stuff but still sticking with a 27" sdtv? :/

I generally hate and ignore tv with the exception of football and How I Met Your Mother. If didn't have a roommate I would probably remove the tv altogether and just dedicate the living room to the the speakers alone.


----------



## gorb

Understandable. I don't watch any tv myself, but I have one for movies, gaming, or movies and gaming with friends :/

I've probably turned on my tv only two dozen times or so in the last 6 months.


----------



## H3||scr3am

muhahahahahhaha picture tiem!

flickr

OCN gallery doesn't seem to work :S

and before you even comment on the size of the TV, my 47" vizio 120Hz LCD is shipped


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
muhahahahahhaha picture tiem!

flickr

OCN gallery doesn't seem to work :S

and before you even comment on the size of the TV, my 47" vizio 120Hz LCD is shipped









Time to clean up that room







. Yea, it somehow hurts me to see the sub sandwiched between that chair and the wall







...
Oh no, you've turned on my OCD for speaker placement (guiltily looks at loudspeakers on either side, one hiding behind a metal stand







)

The more important question...How do they sound?


----------



## H3||scr3am

I'll tell you when I have them all setup


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell* 
So first off I must say, my room in my apartment is obviously not adequate. No worries, will be moving to a larger place soon, with plenty of adequate space. ^ ^

..and sorry about the mess.. its not usually that messy









oh and I am still missing a center speaker, though I will be ordering my CS2 soon.









..and yes that is a 25.5" display







I'm all about the audio









very nice









Quote:


Originally Posted by *darthspartan* 
Hey ive doubled the size of my system since i posted now i also have

2 carvin double 18s 3200 watts each
2 more trx's at 1000 each

well not perfectly double theres other stuff like monitors i don't mention. old wattage 8400 new 16800. Now i need 6 20A 110v circuits to set up or 2 50A 220v circuits









Just make it Lots of Carvin times 2

Chipp hows the mackie amp doing









you are insane my friend (in a good way







)

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
As it sits now, the rig is Marantz CD5001 + TacT S2150 + PSB Platinum M2.

I will be buying the TacT; less than 24 hours is all I've needed to discover that this is definitely the best sound I have experienced from the gear I have owned, be it headphones or speakers. This is truly clear sound, so clean it's like a chalkboard that's never been written on.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Heh, my initial impressions are in layman's terms, but yeah.









A few more pics of the full rig:





























p0rn at its best









Quote:


Originally Posted by *AUS.R34P3R* 
Hey just wanted to know if these speakers qualify.
Regrettably I don't have the model number for the fronts as they were second hand from my Dad.
From what I remember, they're a pair of 30yr+ old AudioLabs that cost him a ~2 weeks wages. (A few Hundred dollars, but that was 30yrs ago...)

Front: *AudioLab* Towers (I think, the details were painted over during a restoration)

Impedance: 4 Ohms
Tweeter: 70mm
Mid: 180mm
Mid-Tweeter: 150mm (Clarion Car Speaker modded-In)

Rear: Accusound DLR-525

Frequency Response: 45-21000 Hz
Watts RMS: 25-120
Sensitivity 1W @ 1m: 89 db
Impedance: 6 Ohms
Bass Driver: 145mm
Tweeter: 25mm

Centre: Dome AV706c

Frequency Response: 70-20000 Hz
Watts RMS: 10-120
Sensitivity 1W @ 1m: 85 db
Impedance: 8 Ohms
Bass Driver: 2x 100mm
Tweeter: 25mm

Sub: DSE A2669

Frequency Response: 35-150 Hz
Watts RMS: 100-120
Sensitivity: 80 db
Impedance: 4 Ohms
Bass Driver: 10"

Amplifier: Onkyo TX-SR602

Power: 85 W/Ch
Frequency Response: 10 Hz-100 kHz (+ 1 dB, - 3 dB)

    

Ill chalk you up









Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericld* 
This is what I have.
Computer Room. JBL SCS500.1 > Yamaha HTR 5540 I use optical to connect to on board sound.

Entertainment: JBL SCS500.1 (7.1) > Onkyo TX SR606 I use my laptop as a HTPC connected via HDMI, Bluray and Power DVD 9

My wife is playing a game on her laptop in the second pic.











Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
muhahahahahhaha picture tiem!

flickr

OCN gallery doesn't seem to work :S

and before you even comment on the size of the TV, my 47" vizio 120Hz LCD is shipped


----------



## mega_option101

Just got some new speakers









Technics SB-X700

These sound a lot better than my old vintage advent


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mega_option101* 
Just got some new speakers









Technics SB-X700

These sound a lot better than my old vintage advent









Ill get that changed out for you


----------



## Zippit

I'm in!

2 Mission E54(front), 1 Mission M3c2i (center) and Mission m30i (surround).

Pics will follow shortly.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Zippit* 
I'm in!

2 Mission E54(front), 1 Mission M3c2i (center) and Mission m30i (surround).

Pics will follow shortly.


----------



## lozanoa11

I guess i fit in also. Ive got some sony towers circa 1988. Sound good but lacking in the treble area.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Hey guys, about home theater in a box.. are there any good one's for <$400? Christmas gift for my mom so I want to keep it simple.

---edit---

Nvm. Made my purchase 2 minutes after this post. lol

This

I doubt her ears would really be able to tell the difference between this and a $1000 setup.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 
Hey guys, about home theater in a box.. are there any good one's for <$400? Christmas gift for my mom so I want to keep it simple.

---edit---

Nvm. Made my purchase 2 minutes after this post. lol

This

I doubt her ears would really be able to tell the difference between this and a $1000 setup.

bet they would...


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
bet they would...









Naaa. Aside from the theater she doesn't have much to compare it with.


----------



## mega_option101

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
Ill get that changed out for you









Thanks!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lozanoa11* 
I guess i fit in also. Ive got some sony towers circa 1988. Sound good but lacking in the treble area.

sorry about the slow add in thread subscription missed your post









Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
bet they would...









dido

Quote:


Originally Posted by *mega_option101* 
Thanks!









np m8


----------



## theCanadian

Whats up guys, just thought I'd let you know I'm looking for a little help:http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...ml#post7781509


----------



## jarble

http://www.parts-express.com/home.cfm great sight


----------



## Hoodcom

KLH 9909 Satellite speakers. Their fake _dome_ Piezo tweeters were removed, and replaced with _real_ dome tweeters, and crossovers put in for the tweeters. However I am working on customizing them more, by also adding tweeter protection and a high pass filter on the woofer to keep anything below 80Hz from going to them.









Felt Pads added to the front of these speakers to tilt them enough to aim at my ears better. I know it doesn't look the greatest but it's cheap and it works.









Yeah, I am using a Sony receiver on them and a 10" passive subwoofer.









Cerwin Vega SAT-6W - 10" passive subwoofer. Partially why I need high pass filters on the satellites, so right now, I don't have the bass too high.


----------



## nookkin

I just put together my system yesterday. It is a stellar upgrade from what I used to have (2 sets of free computer speakers + an old computer sub), and is loud enough to annoy the neighbors if I choose to play it at such levels. I got great deals on all of the equipment, most notably the receiver.

Polk Audio Monitor 30. (The white speakers below the desk are not used any more, I just didn't bother to remove them.)









Harman/Kardon AVR 140 receiver, with a cheap HarmonTec DVD player for playing CDs when my computer is off (it's connected via coax S/PDIF so the quality of its internal DAC doesn't matter)









Polk Audio PSW10 sub (this isn't its actual position, I just moved it for the picture)


----------



## lozanoa11

How do you like that Harman/Kardon receiver? I was gunna get that but got a Panasonic that was open box for much cheaper.


----------



## nookkin

Quote:


Originally Posted by *lozanoa11* 
How do you like that Harman/Kardon receiver? I was gunna get that but got a Panasonic that was open box for much cheaper.

The Harman/Kardon is great. I'm currently listening to it at around -40dB and it's nice and loud -- it goes all the way up to +10 I believe. It lets you adjust the crossover frequencies for each group of speakers (front, center, rear, side) individually, which is supposed to come in useful in home theater setups. It has 2 digital inputs on the front and 4 more on the back, plus 2 digital outputs. It did run quite hot, but I connected an old CPU fan to a 6v wall wart adapter and plugged that into the switched outlet on the back, and this keeps it nice and cool.


----------



## Riks

can anyone recommend a good 5.1 or 7.1 speaker set?

Â£200 is about the max

-thanks


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Riks* 
can anyone recommend a good 5.1 or 7.1 speaker set?

Â£200 is about the max

-thanks

this isn't the proper area to ask that question.


----------



## Su77en187

Does having M-Audio AV40 qualify? I know it's not the best, but being a novice with audio equipment, I think it sounds awesome!


----------



## tagurtoast

Hmm Well I dont really have a MAIN set of speakers But I recently Bought a Yamaha RX-V461 Receiver which makes my sound system own that little bit more.

So yeah I got a 5.2 Setup of

CENTRE: Some random Kenwood HiFi Speakers on the sides of 1 random LG Wide range HTIB speaker.
Front L/R: Those Random LG Wide Range HTIB speakers.
Rear L/R: 2 Big Speaker boxes I made with 12 Inch Woofers (not Subs) 2 Tweeters A 3 inch Mid and a 6.5 inch Wide Range.
AMP: Yamaha RX-V461 Natural Sound AV Receiver.
Sub1: Sony SA-w10G @100WRMS @6Ohms(Active Home theatre Sub)(Powers Sub 2 Also).
Sub2: LG HTIB Passive 6 inch Sub at 120WRMS @8OHMS Sub1 and 2 In parallel To the Sony Sub Amp @3.5OHMS

It Doesnt Sound too bad Says my uncle who owns a pair of these LINK These go for about 4k USD retail.

I know I don't have Fancy Studio Monitors but I Wanted to go the Surround Sound Route.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Su77en187* 
Does having M-Audio AV40 qualify? I know it's not the best, but being a novice with audio equipment, I think it sounds awesome!

as they are listed as desktop I will have to say no







not that that means that are bad speakers just that they are not in line with the club parameters.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tagurtoast* 
Hmm Well I dont really have a MAIN set of speakers But I recently Bought a Yamaha RX-V461 Receiver which makes my sound system own that little bit more.

So yeah I got a 5.2 Setup of

CENTRE: Some random Kenwood HiFi Speakers on the sides of 1 random LG Wide range HTIB speaker.
Front L/R: Those Random LG Wide Range HTIB speakers.
Rear L/R: 2 Big Speaker boxes I made with 12 Inch Woofers (not Subs) 2 Tweeters A 3 inch Mid and a 6.5 inch Wide Range.
AMP: Yamaha RX-V461 Natural Sound AV Receiver.
Sub1: Sony SA-w10G @100WRMS @6Ohms(Active Home theatre Sub)(Powers Sub 2 Also).
Sub2: LG HTIB Passive 6 inch Sub at 120WRMS @8OHMS Sub1 and 2 In parallel To the Sony Sub Amp @3.5OHMS

It Doesnt Sound too bad Says my uncle who owns a pair of these LINK These go for about 4k USD retail.

I know I don't have Fancy Studio Monitors but I Wanted to go the Surround Sound Route.

we will go with a custom 5.2









edit you were already in so we edited your listing from custom to custom 5.2


----------



## Xeroni

Just like to update my speakers, it seems I've gone over budget. If I include my free speakers, free receiver, I've gone over by $15 thanks to this subwoofer. Oh well, I think it's worth it.









It's a Sony SA-WMSP1, got it at my local Salvation Army.


----------



## computeruler

I have a yammy rx-v363 hooked up to (dont laugh im poor) 2 sony fronts from a bookshelf system and 2 *cringes* bose rears from the 80s. I also have a europower 1500 amp for my type r subwoofer


----------



## xguntherc

Hey all you speaker guys. I've never had a good Home audio setup for the TV and movie watching. I've got good headphones and IEM's though. I saw a what looks like another good deal from amazon like those $99 dollar Triple.Fi 10 headphones early december.

The Klipsch B-3 Bookshelf Synergy Loudspeakers. Usually around $349 Through amazon, they have it as the GOLD deal of the day for Today 24th only for $149. they have cheaper B-1, and even 5 1/2 inch B-2, so the B-3's are the better model

Would they go well with my home audio for living room, mainly for TV, football, and movie watching. I have a $600 dollar or so Denon Receiver and some OLD floorstanding speakers that need replaced, would the B-3's work or would something be better for the price? and how would they work for PC usage

http://www.amazon.com/gp/goldbox/ref...200_pe_00_head

http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-Synerg...YSKJ40T0ANR960


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Can I get added to the list.

I have the TCA Gizmo V1.0m & WAF-1 2.0 Speakers.

I'm still looking for a nice sub to compliment my setup.

Can I get an updated?

Still have the TCA Gizmo v1.0M & 2 x WAF-1 Speakers

Just added in a Dayton SUB-80 8"

Danke Schon!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Can I get an updated?

Still have the TCA Gizmo v1.0M & 2 x WAF-1 Speakers

Just added in a Dayton SUB-80 8"

Danke Schon!

and there we go







odd for some reason you were not on the list







that has been rectified









ps I love the upa-2 I just got


----------



## Steggy

So my mom got me a TC-750LC preamp for christmas, but I still need an amp for my speakers. My brother got me a 50 dollar amazon gift card, is there anything on amazon for that price range that you guys would suggest? I was considering just going with the dayton T amp, because I borrowed a friend's sonic t amp before, and was quite pleased with the sound. but if there are any better options for the price i'm all ears


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
and there we go







odd for some reason you were not on the list







that has been rectified









ps I love the upa-2 I just got

















it's good man.

I know why I wasn't on the list, you were jealous of my setup...


----------



## SQBubble

heres mine; should be upgrading soon though! =D

before;










after;










then;










now;










as of speakers;










i have tons of other audio pics!!


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SQBubble* 
heres mine; should be upgrading soon though! =D

before;










after;










then;










now;










as of speakers;










i have tons of other audio pics!!

my m8 are those custom jobs or do you have model info on those so I can add you


----------



## ericld

Just add a pair of Polk Audio TSi 100s to my little HT, along with a Toshiba 47" 240hz LCD. When I get another contract or two, I plan an getting these:

http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/t...x.php?s=tsi400

and use my 100s for rears. Still thinking of what to use for my Computer room.


----------



## SQBubble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
my m8 are those custom jobs or do you have model info on those so I can add you

The little high excursion 10" in each their sealed enclosure are subs from TC Sounds (TC10-oem), and the 18" sub is from Ascendant Audio (hAvoc), with 2 18" passive radiator from CSS (creative sound solution), it is tuned @ 17hz! amazing low-end for movies! best sub-bass experience i have ever heard & felt!!

The enclosures is what I made for the subs so yea you could say its custom...


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericld* 
Just add a pair of Polk Audio TSi 100s to my little HT, along with a Toshiba 47" 240hz LCD. When I get another contract or two, I plan an getting these:

http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/t...x.php?s=tsi400

and use my 100s for rears. Still thinking of what to use for my Computer room.

nice and clean









Quote:


Originally Posted by *SQBubble* 
The little high excursion 10" in each their sealed enclosure are subs from TC Sounds (TC10-oem), and the 18" sub is from Ascendant Audio (hAvoc), with 2 18" passive radiator from CSS (creative sound solution), it is tuned @ 17hz! amazing low-end for movies! best sub-bass experience i have ever heard & felt!!

The enclosures is what I made for the subs so yea you could say its custom...

custom it is then my man


----------



## Wizdumb

Here is my speaker setup/other hobby. Tannoy pbm 6.5 passive


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Wizdumb* 
Here is my speaker setup/other hobby. Tannoy pbm 6.5 passive









nice setup you ave there


----------



## admflameberg

Yamaha RX-V363 -> Sony SS-B1000 bookshelf speakers


----------



## H3||scr3am

My hometheatre is getting close to being finished, just need to figure out why my LFE on my Subwoofer isn't working...







But the 4.0 is great







and when I wall mount my TV I'll get the centre going, for 5.0/1 whenever I get the Sub working the way I want.

EDIT: Bah, so it turns out my MFW-15 has a dead amp







they're sending me a new one ASAP though.


----------



## Mike!

Can I play?









Sorry about the poor quality pics.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike!* 
Can I play?









Sorry about the poor quality pics.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 









... but the bose... *cringes*


----------



## Chipp

Are the Bose run when the MTX are? I smell comb filtering


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike!* 
Can I play?









Sorry about the poor quality pics.










any interesting setup there is that for pro use or home? also model numbers are greatly appreciated


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am* 
... but the bose... *cringes*

I know lol, but I'm willing to over look it in this case.


----------



## Luda

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SQBubble* 
The little high excursion 10" in each their sealed enclosure are subs from TC Sounds (TC10-oem), and the 18" sub is from Ascendant Audio (hAvoc), with 2 18" passive radiator from CSS (creative sound solution), it is tuned @ 17hz! amazing low-end for movies! best sub-bass experience i have ever heard & felt!!

The enclosures is what I made for the subs so yea you could say its custom...


holy ****! i bet ever neighbor within a good 1/4mi hates you when you watch movies. how much power are you putting to that Havoc?

update:

Finished my 5.1 setup

Fronts: Klipsh KM KG3.5's i post earlier
Rears: Sony 3 Way's

 

Center: Cambridge Centerstage

 

and a sony 10" subwoofer to handle the low end


----------



## Mike!

The Bose are used as my surrounds when I'm watching a movie; they're ran off the Yamaha receiver on their own channel (5.1). There is also a 3-way speaker not in the picture that i use as my center, but don't worry about that.

The setup is by no means pro. It's just what I use to play some music at home (really loud







).

MTX Model TP1200 ThunderPro2 12in Two Way Professional Loudspeaker System

Power Acoustik FUBR-12 (I know, I know..car sub..)

Yamaha HTR-5830

About the car sub:
In case you were wondering it connects to it's own amplifier (home amp, not car) which is hooked up to the LFE output on the Yamaha receiver. It may be a bit of a rig but I honestly have yet to hear a home audio sub that I would rather have and you DEFINITELY couldn't find a replacement for the price.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Luda* 
holy ****! i bet ever neighbor within a good 1/4mi hates you when you watch movies. how much power are you putting to that Havoc?

update:

Finished my 5.1 setup

Fronts: Klipsh KM KG3.5's i post earlier
Rears: Sony 3 Way's

Center: Cambridge Centerstage

and a sony 10" subwoofer to handle the low end

I will get that updated for you









Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike!* 
The Bose are used as my surrounds when I'm watching a movie; they're ran off the Yamaha receiver on their own channel (5.1). There is also a 3-way speaker not in the picture that i use as my center, but don't worry about that.

The setup is by no means pro. It's just what I use to play some music at home (really loud







).

MTX Model TP1200 ThunderPro2 12in Two Way Professional Loudspeaker System

Power Acoustik FUBR-12 (I know, I know..car sub..)

Yamaha HTR-5830

About the car sub:
In case you were wondering it connects to it's own amplifier (home amp, not car) which is hooked up to the LFE output on the Yamaha receiver. It may be a bit of a rig but I honestly have yet to hear a home audio sub that I would rather have and you DEFINITELY couldn't find a replacement for the price.









thanks m8

remember its your ears that mater not ours have confidence in your system


----------



## Mike!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 

thanks m8

remember its your ears that mater not ours have confidence in your system









Cool


----------



## SlyFox

Hurray I can finally be added.









AV123 ELT525M


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike!* 
The Bose are used as my surrounds when I'm watching a movie; they're ran off the Yamaha receiver on their own channel (5.1). There is also a 3-way speaker not in the picture that i use as my center, but don't worry about that.

The setup is by no means pro. It's just what I use to play some music at home (really loud







).

MTX Model TP1200 ThunderPro2 12in Two Way Professional Loudspeaker System

Power Acoustik FUBR-12 (I know, I know..car sub..)

Yamaha HTR-5830

About the car sub:
In case you were wondering it connects to it's own amplifier (home amp, not car) which is hooked up to the LFE output on the Yamaha receiver. It may be a bit of a rig but I honestly have yet to hear a home audio sub that I would rather have and you DEFINITELY couldn't find a replacement for the price.









I am looking to buy something similar, but powered pro audio speakers, for home use soon. They wont be for SQ, as I love my speakers now, but more for a good punch when people are over.

In a small house I would expect those to hit some good punchy bass levels. Do you get the chest thumping bass that clubs, and live bands have?

The 18" sub I have now has a flat response to 15hz, so its not very punchy in music, just sounds deep, and flex's the walls on 5hz tones, and compresses the room to the point that breathing becomes interrupted. Its not great for music though.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Luda* 
holy ****! i bet ever neighbor within a good 1/4mi hates you when you watch movies. how much power are you putting to that Havoc?

update:

Finished my 5.1 setup

Fronts: Klipsh KM KG3.5's i post earlier
Rears: Sony 3 Way's

 

Center: Cambridge Centerstage

 

and a sony 10" subwoofer to handle the low end

d00d, joo needsta clean... the ladies run away in fear, your port is blocked by detritus, and your center is aimed @ your ceiling......


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SlyFox* 









Hurray I can finally be added.









AV123 ELT525M

I love the look of av123's speakers


----------



## KoolGuy

My Budget 5.1 Surround sound system

Behind me








This is attached to my computer. How ever i only use it when i start to blast music
To my left








Infinity SSW-10. I found her and restored her. She needed new Foam and for her dust cap needed to be removed and poped back inside out. I cleaned her inside out. Then the last piece is a "Surround sound processor" Which i use to power some of the speakers.
Under my desk








Technics speaker [this is the center piece i have the two other satellite speakers put away.] You can also see the sub woofer of a Dell A525
Desk Speakers








Along with my 20" dell monitor i have the rest of the Dell A525 set

Out of just boredome i started modeling some of my speakers.
Im done with the Infinity ssw-10








And im finishing the rear of the Phillips speakers.


----------



## YLDaryl

Just set up an Onkyo HT-S9100THX system that I won in a drawing at local home theater store (after buying a $1500 TV). I think it sounds amazing, however my wife hates it. I'll try to get pictures soon. It is making me wish for a bigger desk and a better sound card. Any suggestions? Btw as far as i can tell 7.1 is useless for a computer.


----------



## Mike!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
I am looking to buy something similar, but powered pro audio speakers, for home use soon. They wont be for SQ, as I love my speakers now, but more for a good punch when people are over.

In a small house I would expect those to hit some good punchy bass levels. Do you get the chest thumping bass that clubs, and live bands have?

The 18" sub I have now has a flat response to 15hz, so its not very punchy in music, just sounds deep, and flex's the walls on 5hz tones, and compresses the room to the point that breathing becomes interrupted. Its not great for music though.

Honestly the speakers a bit weak when it comes to deep, ground shaking bass. They certainly are loud as hell though and paired with a sub, sound amazing.









EDIT: To better answer your question: I don't listen to too much music with thumping bass because I'm more of a rumbling bass kind of person (i.e. rap rather than house). My speakers do seem to do well with thumping bass but not so much with a low rumbling tone which is where the subwoofer comes into play.


----------



## jarble

my apologies to KoolGuy for the slow add in thread subbing missed your post


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mike!* 
Honestly the speakers a bit weak when it comes to deep, ground shaking bass. They certainly are loud as hell though and paired with a sub, sound amazing.









EDIT: To better answer your question: I don't listen to too much music with thumping bass because I'm more of a rumbling bass kind of person (i.e. rap rather than house). My speakers do seem to do well with thumping bass but not so much with a low rumbling tone which is where the subwoofer comes into play.

Most two-way small PA speakers like those MTX's will be designed with a bass peak in the 60-80hz region, which is where the "meat" of a kick drum usually falls. Below that, _if_ the crossover is designed right, rolloff will be pretty steep to protect the drivers from over-excursion.


----------



## .Sup

I don't like rear ported speakers, why do they still even make them as I don't see them to have any advantages over front ported, only disadvantages.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Just curious here, but can I finally be accepted? I just got a Pioneer VSX-504S reciever, and a set of Pioneer CS-405's (12", 3 way, 26 year old speakers). I'm curious, because I plan to add some custom stands to the speakers soon, and I'd also like to get some decent 2.0 bookshelf speakers to add on Channel B. I'm also going to be building a Rockford HE2 into a subwoofer for this setup as well.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Most two-way small PA speakers like those MTX's will be designed with a bass peak in the 60-80hz region, which is where the "meat" of a kick drum usually falls. Below that, _if_ the crossover is designed right, rolloff will be pretty steep to protect the drivers from over-excursion.

Its what I am looking to buy/ build. My current setup is flat, but I want to add some peaks with a different setup for when friends are over, and they want some good club music.

My sub woofer tuned slightly below 20hz does not give that.

Right now it looks like ill be buying a powered 2 way, and build a horn sub, with a strong EQ.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
Its what I am looking to buy/ build. My current setup is flat, but I want to add some peaks with a different setup for when friends are over, and they want some good club music.

My sub woofer tuned slightly below 20hz does not give that.

Right now it looks like ill be buying a powered 2 way, and build a horn sub, with a strong EQ.

Club music, as in EDM?


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Club music, as in EDM?

Yes







.

My room measurements are pretty flat, so the punch is just not there, like pro audio setups.

This is why im going to build a second system for loud, low SQ, and outrageous punchy bass.


----------



## Chipp

I wouldn't be looking to horns unless you have exhorberant amounts of space - they have really high sensitivity, but you almost certainly won't be able to get the mouth size large enough (via clustering) to get the kind of sub-50hz punch you're looking for. I'd stick with a direct-radiating sub.

Have you put any thought into processing and amplification? What mains are you looking to use?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *.Sup* 
I don't like rear ported speakers, why do they still even make them as I don't see them to have any advantages over front ported, only disadvantages.

I don't know about all disadvantages, but if you have the space rear ported speakers are fine, they just need more 'air' between them and any boundaries. I do tend to prefer front ported though.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
I wouldn't be looking to horns unless you have exhorberant amounts of space - they have really high sensitivity, but you almost certainly won't be able to get the mouth size large enough (via clustering) to get the kind of sub-50hz punch you're looking for. I'd stick with a direct-radiating sub.

Have you put any thought into processing and amplification? What mains are you looking to use?









Current plan is to use 95db+ sensitive drivers, with a plate amp and a reckhorn bass management system, instead of a band style EQ.

http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=B-1

Boost 12db, at around 65hz, and cutoff at 50hz, to get a nice peak. This will probably be adjusted when the time comes though.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
Current plan is to use 95db+ sensitive drivers, with a plate amp and a reckhorn bass management system, instead of a band style EQ.

http://www.creativesound.ca/details.php?model=B-1

Boost 12db, at around 65hz, and cutoff at 50hz, to get a nice peak. This will probably be adjusted when the time comes though.

Isn't that a little high? I mean don't you want the deepest chest-pounding bass possible?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Isn't that a little high? I mean don't you want the deepest chest-pounding bass possible?

I'm gonna ask the same question - for EDM I'd really want a high pass no higher than 40hz or so (and subs that were capable of reasonably flat response from 80hz down into the upper 30hz range). What kind of money are you looking to spend overall?


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
I'm gonna ask the same question - for EDM I'd really want a high pass no higher than 40hz or so (and subs that were capable of reasonably flat response from 80hz down into the upper 30hz range). What kind of money are you looking to spend overall?

My current sub.... is more than enough for music and deep bass. Its flat to 20hz, and only -3db to 15hz. Its not deep chest bass im looking for. Its Rock concert thump.

To drjoey1500, if you listen to polks from future shop, or any brands like that, I would consider those high bass and crap. Its all in the persons tastes. Most of them peak at 50hz zone, and start rolling off, but advertise it as 20hz -10db.

This is not a SQ build. My current sub sounds better than any I have auditioned at high end stores.

About the flat to 30hz. I want High spl at the frequency you get hit in the chest by. Below 40hz only vibrates and excites the room, especially below 25hz.

You see most pro audio speakers end at around 55hz, were the kick is. That is what i am looking to build/buy. More pro audio, than a home sub.

My sub has the bass in EDM music louder than needed, but it does not have the kick, you find at most dance parties. You could say I want to color the music heavily.










Thats close to the response I want to see. Although my sub rolls off at around 19hz.


----------



## Azazel

I have been looking at speakers recently and I just wanted to ask what the dotted lines are on this frequency response graph.

http://www.fostexinternational.com/d.../fe207erev.pdf

I have absolutely no idea what they mean.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Azazel* 
I have been looking at speakers recently and I just wanted to ask what the dotted lines are on this frequency response graph.

http://www.fostexinternational.com/d.../fe207erev.pdf

I have absolutely no idea what they mean.

If I had to guess, the top line is an anechoic measurement, the middle line is in half-space, and the bottom line is full-space or outdoors.


----------



## Azazel

Thanks. I guess I can just look at the solid line then because they would be on a computer desk pretty close to me. I don't really care how the sound is anywhere else lol.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Azazel* 
Thanks. I guess I can just look at the solid line then because they would be on a computer desk pretty close to me. I don't really care how the sound is anywhere else lol.

The flatter it looks, the better it will sound. Although some people like "Color" in there sound. This is not always the case, but most of the time is.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Azazel* 
I have been looking at speakers recently and I just wanted to ask what the dotted lines are on this frequency response graph.

http://www.fostexinternational.com/d.../fe207erev.pdf

I have absolutely no idea what they mean.

Off-axis response? I couldn't tell you the exact angles though.


----------



## LoGGi!

I'm in if running a pari of OR-306Xi with a pioneer VSX-919H A/V receiver qualifies =D


----------



## soloz2

Since we had 4 pages helping Pioneerisloud with his subs I decided to put it in a separate thread http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...-home-amp.html


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
Since we had 4 pages helping Pioneerisloud with his subs I decided to put it in a separate thread http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...-home-amp.html

Thank you soloz







.

How come I'm still not added??
















Pioneer CS-405's here! If you want you can add my Jensen bookshelfs too....but they suck.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
Since we had 4 pages helping Pioneerisloud with his subs I decided to put it in a separate thread http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...-home-amp.html









don't do that to me man I was siting here freaking out that I was posting speaker club in the wrong thread






























edit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Thank you soloz







.

How come I'm still not added??
















Pioneer CS-405's here! If you want you can add my Jensen bookshelfs too....but they suck.


umm I see you in the post


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 







don't do that to me man I was siting here freaking out that I was posting speaker club in the wrong thread






























edit

umm I see you in the post









Its in alphabetical order






























I assumed I was going to be near the end of the list. I figured it was in order of post, not ABC order.









Noob mistake, my bad.

EDIT:
Thank you for adding me







.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Thank you soloz







.

How come I'm still not added??
















Pioneer CS-405's here! If you want you can add my Jensen bookshelfs too....but they suck.

np, you're there, 2nd post with everyone else...


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Its in alphabetical order






























I assumed I was going to be near the end of the list. I figured it was in order of post, not ABC order.









Noob mistake, my bad.

EDIT:
Thank you for adding me







.

np m8

edit just thought I would though this out there....



































I love my upa-2


----------



## theCanadian

Bro, its time to add me to teh list:










Kind of a build log: http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...these-old.html

In the box:

Eminence _Delta-12A_ 12" Woofer
Eminence _LA6_-_CBMR_ 6.5" Midrange Woofer
Philips AD0160 T8 Mylar Dome Tweeter (relic of a tweet)
These crossovers: http://www.amazon.com/Crossover-3-Wa...132296&sr=1-16

Boxes are sealed

I rebuilt them. Original build date is '73/'74


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Bro, its time to add me to teh list:
Kind of a build log: http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards...these-old.html
In the box:
Eminence _Delta-12A_ 12" Woofer
Eminence _LA6_-_CBMR_ 6.5" Midrange Woofer
Philips AD0160 T8 Mylar Dome Tweeter (relic of a tweet)
These crossovers: http://www.amazon.com/Crossover-3-Wa...132296&sr=1-16Boxes are sealed
I rebuilt them. Original build date is '73/'74

done

ps I think I am going to change the member list to add a link to the post so that people can quickly see the speakers without having to dig through the entire thread.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
done

ps I think I am going to change the member list to add a link to the post so that people can quickly see the speakers without having to dig through the entire thread.

Good idea! I'll post some pictures of mine once I get them setup properly







. You guys don't want to see my garage, lol.

EDIT:
That reminds me, can anyone recommend a good way to build some stands for these bad boys?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Good idea! I'll post some pictures of mine once I get them setup properly







. You guys don't want to see my garage, lol.

thanks

don't expect it to be up instantaneously though


----------



## waqasr

OH ive changed up from my Denon PMA 250 and Jamo stuio 170s to a Denon PMA 355UK and Mission M74s.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Good idea! I'll post some pictures of mine once I get them setup properly







. You guys don't want to see my garage, lol.

EDIT:
That reminds me, can anyone recommend a good way to build some stands for these bad boys?

If you can find a similar-color wood varnish, I've always been a fan of the box-over-box approach.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
If you can find a similar-color wood varnish, I've always been a fan of the box-over-box approach.

Well I plan to use metal, probably painted black or silver (to match). But how high do they need to be stood from the ground? Should they be angled at all?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well I plan to use metal, probably painted black or silver (to match). But how high do they need to be stood from the ground? Should they be angled at all?

You generally want tweeters at ear-level - high frequencies are far more directional than low ones. If for a party type setting, build the stands higher and angle down. Otherwise a flat platform is fine.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
You generally want tweeters at ear-level - high frequencies are far more directional than low ones. If for a party type setting, build the stands higher and angle down. Otherwise a flat platform is fine.

Hmmm, I didn't know that. + invisible rep for you, lol. No, it'll be for general home use. So I'll probably want them to sit roughly 6" off the ground then. It'll probably be just an L shaped bracket that holds them up, with some sort of stand.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *waqasr* 
OH ive changed up from my Denon PMA 250 and Jamo stuio 170s to a Denon PMA 355UK and Mission M74s.

very nice update in sec

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
If you can find a similar-color wood varnish, I've always been a fan of the box-over-box approach.

since we are on the topic of varnish and such what do you all think of this http://www.veneersupplies.com/produc...oducts_id=7411


----------



## GOTFrog

Running Energy ACT 6 5.0 speaker set for now when I finally renovate my basement going with a pair of Energy Reference Connoisseur 4-Way Tower Speaker (RC-70) and Energy Reference Connoisseur 3-Way Centre Channel Speaker (RC-LCR) and a pair SVS Ultra 13. They are already bought just no room for them now. No pics since it looks bad since there's no cable management no space till late spring early summer when I do my renovations, can't wait.


----------



## Sylon

I just picked up a Creative Gigaworks T3 2.1 (small room)...are they any good? They replaced some 40 dollar logitech and I really like them, just wanted to hear some feedback from audiophiles haha.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sylon* 
I just picked up a Creative Gigaworks T3 2.1 (small room)...are they any good? They replaced some 40 dollar logitech and I really like them, just wanted to hear some feedback from audiophiles haha.

I doubt many audiophiles would have them, (they are still PC speakers) but they actually look very nice. They may be an exception to the rule.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sylon* 
I just picked up a Creative Gigaworks T3 2.1 (small room)...are they any good? They replaced some 40 dollar logitech and I really like them, just wanted to hear some feedback from audiophiles haha.

I'll be quite honest (with no offense intended) - they look like a 'boom and sizzle' system to me. The 'subwoofer' will be picking up a huge chunk of the midrange because those tweeters they are expecting to be full-range just wont dig low enough. Overall, it might work alright, but I wouldn't expect too much from it. Speakers are speakers and the laws of physics are the laws of physics, whether the speakers say 'computer' next to them or not.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
I'll be quite honest (with no offense intended) - they look like a 'boom and sizzle' system to me. The 'subwoofer' will be picking up a huge chunk of the midrange because those tweeters they are expecting to be full-range just wont dig low enough. Overall, it might work alright, but I wouldn't expect too much from it. Speakers are speakers and the laws of physics are the laws of physics, whether the speakers say 'computer' next to them or not.

I don't know about all that Chipp. I've read a couple professional reviews on these and they seem to be pretty well received for what they are (PC Speakers). Most PC speakers botch the formula with their cheap crossovers, but these don't seem to make that error.

Quote:

It's important to keep things in perspective though - this is by no means a high-end Hi-Fi system. Strap a pair of KEFs to a Naime amp and you'd immediately dismiss the Gigaworks T3's as amateur wannabes.

But as a set of PC speakers, ideal for listening to music, watching movies and playing games, they're very, very good.


----------



## theCanadian

I've been looking at some more data on my speakers. I'm thinking it might be a good idea to port my enclosures. What do you guys think?

Speaker data: http://www.eminence-speaker.com/pdf/delta-12a.pdf
Data on recommended enclosure: http://www.eminence-speaker.com/pdf/cab-delta-12a.pdf

The mid and tweet are sealed, so the 12" woofer is all that I need to look at.

Edit: My current enclosures are ~1.5 ft^3 sealed. (I dont remember exactly, but 14" wide, 10" deep, 18" high would be a good estimate for internal dimensions.)

They sound pretty good. They have a pretty rich sound, but I think that porting them might make them brighter, but I can't say for sure. Also the crossover I've chosen worries me a little. I think I could do better in that respect.

On a side note, were would one get fabric like this, my current covers are pretty beat up:


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *GOTFrog* 
Running Energy ACT 6 5.0 speaker set for now when I finally renovate my basement going with a pair of Energy Reference Connoisseur 4-Way Tower Speaker (RC-70) and Energy Reference Connoisseur 3-Way Centre Channel Speaker (RC-LCR) and a pair SVS Ultra 13. They are already bought just no room for them now. No pics since it looks bad since there's no cable management no space till late spring early summer when I do my renovations, can't wait.

=]

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sylon* 
I just picked up a Creative Gigaworks T3 2.1 (small room)...are they any good? They replaced some 40 dollar logitech and I really like them, just wanted to hear some feedback from audiophiles haha.

this\\/\\/\\/

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
I'll be quite honest (with no offense intended) - they look like a 'boom and sizzle' system to me. The 'subwoofer' will be picking up a huge chunk of the midrange because those tweeters they are expecting to be full-range just wont dig low enough. Overall, it might work alright, but I wouldn't expect too much from it. Speakers are speakers and the laws of physics are the laws of physics, whether the speakers say 'computer' next to them or not.


----------



## Tator Tot

Just rolled in a pair of X-140's today. Just nice little speakers for my laptop staion and DANG! These things are pretty freaking nice comparatively.


----------



## Chipp

theCanadian, get me some exact internal dimensions and I'll run some models for you ported vs sealed.

Grill cloth can be bought from PartsExpress.


----------



## jarble

ok I have gotten a few of the members changed over what do guys think?

and to keep the p0rn rolling in here some shots of the power house for baby's


























































coming from rca bookshelf amp all I can say is wow my diamonds have simply come alive there is so much more depth it simply amazes me.


----------



## ljason8eg

I've got some Audioengine A5's coming on Tuesday. Will have plenty of pics then!


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


I've got some Audioengine A5's coming on Tuesday. Will have plenty of pics then!










nice I will go ahead and add you but make sure and bug me when you add the pics so I can add the link


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


nice I will go ahead and add you but make sure and bug me when you add the pics so I can add the link










Will do. Man I can't wait for these to arrive. I've never had any sort of higher end speakers before.


----------



## jarble

hit a small snag with my plan, with some of our more active members I am forced to chose one post of pics out of of 5-10 great post or mess up the code. if anyone dislikes the post I have chosen please post here or pm me with your preferred post and I will change it out.


----------



## KoolGuy

BTW thanks for adding me!

Im planning on bringing the two B&W 604 i have in the basement and attaching them to my PC. But im not sure if i should..


----------



## H3||scr3am

well if you have a nice receiver, why not?


----------



## H3||scr3am

If you have a nice receiver, I'd say go for it









EDIT: Sorry for double post, It said I couldn't post for 14 seconds when I clicked submit, I refreshed and wrote a new reply and now there are 2....


----------



## KoolGuy

The thing is if i bring it up where am i going to put it. and if i find where to put it it might be a waste because any way i can put the volume to high in my room my neighbors house is attached to mine...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Here's some more speaker pron for you guys (please link to this on the roster







). Sorry for horrible quality, its from my phone.


----------



## KoolGuy

Let me guess you use a Netbook to power those right?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
Let me guess you use a Netbook to power those right?









No....I'm using a Pioneer VSX-504S to power them. 135w RMS @ 8ohms, and its 2ohm stable (350w RMS @ 2ohm).


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
No....I'm using a Pioneer VSX-504S to power them. 135w RMS @ 8ohms, and its 2ohm stable (350w RMS @ 2ohm).

I don't understand why it matters what ohmage you use. Someone care to explain? I mean, yeah you can put more power through it, but at the cost of resistance.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I don't understand why it matters what ohmage you use. Someone care to explain? I mean, yeah you can put more power through it, but at the cost of resistance.

Less resistance = more power (generally). It just depends on the speakers. In general MOST home audio is 8ohms, and MOST car audio is 4ohms. Less resistance means that its "easier" for the power to flow through the coils, which generally would mean more power.

EDIT:
Like I said though, it all depends on the speakers, and if the amplifier can handle said load.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quick picture of the A5's I got today. Came from Z5500's and WOW. What a difference. Voices aren't muffled anymore and music is just. Wow. Everything is just so crisp and clear.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Those are some beautiful bookshelf's! Wow. I can't wait till I can get some nice bookshelf's like that. **Grumbles about stupid Jensen 1 way 4" bookshelfs....**


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Those are some beautiful bookshelf's! Wow. I can't wait till I can get some nice bookshelf's like that. **Grumbles about stupid Jensen 1 way 4" bookshelfs....**


Thanks man! They were sort of an impulse buy. Just was tired of the shortcomings of my Z5500's. I'm so happy I made the switch though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


Thanks man! They were sort of an impulse buy. Just was tired of the shortcomings of my Z5500's. I'm so happy I made the switch though.


What are you using for a subwoofer?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


What are you using for a subwoofer?


Nothing right now lol. The bass response on these actually surprised me, but a sub is next on the list for sure.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


Nothing right now lol. The bass response on these actually surprised me, but a sub is next on the list for sure.


Really? I would never imagine drivers that small being able to reproduce decent bass response.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Really? I would never imagine drivers that small being able to reproduce decent bass response.


You'd be surprised man.

I had some TCA WAF-1's without a sub for a bit (~5 or 6m I think) and they still did quiet well. Ended up getting a Dayton Audio 8" sub for them.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Really? I would never imagine drivers that small being able to reproduce decent bass response.


It was more bass than I was expecting for sure. They do fall off around 50Hz though, but they're still very nice even without a sub.

I actually have no idea where to start looking for a sub lol. Speakers were $350 and I figured I'd spend around the same amount on a sub. Should be a powered sub too, since the bookshelves are powered.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


It was more bass than I was expecting for sure. They do fall off around 50Hz though, but they're still very nice even without a sub.

I actually have no idea where to start looking for a sub lol. Speakers were $350 and I figured I'd spend around the same amount on a sub. Should be a powered sub too, since the bookshelves are powered.


Seriously? 50Hz!!! Jeez, my 12's start cutting off around 100Hz.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Seriously? 50Hz!!! Jeez, my 12's start cutting off around 100Hz.


Oh yeah. 50Hz lol. That's what it's advertised as, and I tested them with a frequency generator and 50 Hz is plenty loud. Falls off sharply much under that though.


----------



## theCanadian

My custom cabinets come down to 54Hz, but then again, the woofer is 12". I actually got more bang for my buck than I was expecting. They were only 80 bucks a pop, and the FR is as flat as you could hope until you hit 2K. But I'm cutting them off at 800Hz, so it doesn't even matter.

The chemistry between the speakers could be better though, I just need someone who knows what they are doing to advise me on when and where to put what resistors and such. And they definitely need to be ported. But for now, I'm happy, and my main focus is on actually getting a receiver to drive them. I still don't have one! If the sound gods would drop a Sony DH-100 at my front door, I would forever be at their mercy.


----------



## KoolGuy

I had a 3" Sub woofer. Sure it didnt take much for it to start falling off but awell









My 10" infinittyy SSW Bottoms out at about 30hz supposedly..


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
I had a 3" Sub woofer. Sure it didnt take much for it to start falling off but awell









So is there a way at home to check HZ? (With out special EQ)

Yeah, play test tones and take a listen.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KoolGuy* 
I had a 3" Sub woofer. Sure it didnt take much for it to start falling off but awell









So is there a way at home to check HZ? (With out special EQ)

Yeah I just use this program. http://www.world-voices.com/software/nchtone.html

Not sure if that's the best way to go about it but it seemed to work well for me.


----------



## ANP !!!

Add me to the club







.
Before the clean up


----------



## theCanadian

Very nice. The before and after looks like the results of those late night fat people shows.

Also, what is this? I know its an amp/EQ type product, but what is the model or even brand?


----------



## gorb

I just ordered some Energy RC-10s to replace these logitech z-5500s. Still have the same energy take classic 5.1 setup for the movies :/


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ljason8eg*


Yeah I just use this program. http://www.world-voices.com/software/nchtone.html

Not sure if that's the best way to go about it but it seemed to work well for me.


Haa, daayum, 40hz rattles my brain!


----------



## Chipp

Be _extremely_ careful when using sine wave generators guys - a sine wave is the most taxing thing you can ask a driver to reproduce, and it is way too easy to overheat magnet structures with them.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
Be _extremely_ careful when using sine wave generators guys - a sine wave is the most taxing thing you can ask a driver to reproduce, and it is way too easy to overheat magnet structures with them.

I can vouche for that. I've caught a Type-S 10" sub on FIRE LITERALLY using sine wavs in a db Drag, lol.


----------



## G|F.E.A.D|Killa

throw my logitech Z5500s in there for me, had them almost 3 years now and i would never get anything different again.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G|F.E.A.D|Killa* 
throw my logitech Z5500s in there for me, had them almost 3 years now and i would never get anything different again.

Not to sound like a jerk. But read the OP. This is for "real" speakers. And not things like the Logitech's.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Be _extremely_ careful when using sine wave generators guys - a sine wave is the most taxing thing you can ask a driver to reproduce, and it is way too easy to overheat magnet structures with them.


Its the rapid change in phase that often heats up coils. But true.

ps: I like alcohol.







parti


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:



Originally Posted by *G|F.E.A.D|Killa*


throw my logitech Z5500s in there for me, had them almost 3 years now and i would never get anything different again.


I thought that too. Then I bought my A5's. My initial thought was very wrong lol.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *G|F.E.A.D|Killa* 
throw my logitech Z5500s in there for me, had them almost 3 years now and i would never get anything different again.

I bought a pair of z5500's a while ago after reading comments & reviews like yours. They didn't last 3 months before I sold them and I would rate them one of the worst audio purchases I've made. I was still in college and looking for something good, yet cheap that didn't require an amp. I sold them and got a t-amp with a cheap pair of bookshelves and had much better sound for less money.


----------



## pioneerisloud

My pictures were never added to the roster







. Here's a link.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
My pictures were never added to the roster







. Here's a link.

sorry m8 I have been slow adding people this week but can you blame me me2 came out


----------



## Firestorm252

would Sony SS-B1000's qualify?
I'm currently using them off alternatingly between a Sansui A-505 and a Fisher CA-861









the Fisher I'm tinkering with on-again off-again. The RCA jacks and input board needed cleaning. still slowly narrowing down the "bad" parts and such on it.
they aren't hooked to my PC though, my headphone setup goes there.
I currently use either my ipod's LOD or my PS2 for audio source.

sidenote:
why do I keep going down different streets of audio for a hobby?








this is getting pricier than my computer habit haha.


----------



## theCanadian

Just picked up Pioneer SX-316 receiver for $100. Wondering what you guys think of it. I don't know anything about recievers. All I know is this is an earlier model. Probably late 80's early 90's. And I can't find any info on it.


----------



## gorb

it's actually only a few years old...it's not a terrible receiver or anything but it doesn't support any new formats or whatever


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Firestorm252*


would Sony SS-B1000's qualify?
I'm currently using them off alternatingly between a Sansui A-505 and a Fisher CA-861









the Fisher I'm tinkering with on-again off-again. The RCA jacks and input board needed cleaning. still slowly narrowing down the "bad" parts and such on it.
they aren't hooked to my PC though, my headphone setup goes there.
I currently use either my ipod's LOD or my PS2 for audio source.

sidenote:
why do I keep going down different streets of audio for a hobby?








this is getting pricier than my computer habit haha.










I feel you man audio nirvana is just one more upgrade away


----------



## gorb

new speakers


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


new speakers


















sexy


----------



## noname

Hey guys,

Would anyone be interested in buying some Onix Reference 0.5s?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


Hey guys,

Would anyone be interested in buying some Onix Reference 0.5s?


I might be - what is the rated power handling? I dont have any small amps laying around. :/


----------



## theCanadian

New pics, I added them to my original post, so you don't need to update


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
I might be - what is the rated power handling? I dont have any small amps laying around. :/

they handle 115watts just fine, not sure how little you are referring to.









speaking of Onix Reference speakers I've gone back and forth about selling my Ref 1's but have never been able to let them go. I think I'm ready to do so if anyone is interested.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *thecanadian*


new pics, i added them to my original post, so you don't need to update :d




















:d


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


they handle 115watts just fine, not sure how little you are referring to.









speaking of Onix Reference speakers I've gone back and forth about selling my Ref 1's but have never been able to let them go. I think I'm ready to do so if anyone is interested.


Thanks - I couldn't find the specs on AV123's site. 230wpc at 8ohms is the smallest I've got.







I could certainly be conservative with the gain, though, I'm not looking for room-shaking levels out of dorm speakers.

noname, wanna shoot me a PM with how much you're looking to get for them?


----------



## H3||scr3am

I have the AV123 X-LS ENCORES powered by a NAD PE 2500 @ 250WPC @ 8Ohms, no issues...


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


they handle 115watts just fine, not sure how little you are referring to.










speaking of Onix Reference speakers I've gone back and forth about selling my Ref 1's but have never been able to let them go. I think I'm ready to do so if anyone is interested.


I would be interested. I sent you a PM earlier.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Thanks - I couldn't find the specs on AV123's site. 230wpc at 8ohms is the smallest I've got.







I could certainly be conservative with the gain, though, I'm not looking for room-shaking levels out of dorm speakers.

noname, wanna shoot me a PM with how much you're looking to get for them?


Sure, i can do this for you


----------



## soloz2

Chipp you should buy nonames Ref .5's so he can buy my Ref 1's


----------



## noname

Chipp, you have a PM.
And yes, i agree with Soloz


----------



## soloz2

I posted a great Marantz power amp in the FS section that I don't have a current use for.
http://www.overclock.net/audio/66587...ml#post8426853


----------



## noname

I've been at amps lately. While being recommeded the MP-301 6v6 tube amp, and the Onix SP3... I feel like i should look some more.
Would anyone happen to know of some excellent tube amps that are relatively cheap that would best serve a pair of onix reference 1s?
perhaps> cheaper amp with expensive tube = great sound
> semi-expensive with stock/other tubes = great sound
> expensive tube with stock = great sound

expensive is pretty relative here - use the SP3 (400 bucks+shipping used from forums) as expensive.

Thanks :]


----------



## theCanadian

I need a sub for my cabinets. ~$100 give or take some monies. Educate me.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I posted a great Marantz power amp in the FS section that I don't have a current use for.
http://www.overclock.net/audio/66587...ml#post8426853

to bad I already fell in love with my upa-2


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I need a sub for my cabinets. ~$100 give or take some monies. Educate me.









You can have loud, smooth, or cheap. Pick two.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chipp* 
You can have loud, smooth, or cheap. Pick two.









true but still









ps I just finished the c's


----------



## theCanadian

But is there a decent sub for $100? Like an AD700 of the woofer world or something?


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


But is there a decent sub for $100? Like an AD700 of the woofer world or something?


Some of the Dayton offerings are pretty nice, and I'm personally a fan of the Polk PSW10. I thought I read your original post as looking for DIY, for some reason.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


to bad I already fell in love with my upa-2










it is too bad... because I'd wager the Marantz is quite a bit better.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *noname* 
I've been at amps lately. While being recommeded the MP-301 6v6 tube amp, and the Onix SP3... I feel like i should look some more.
Would anyone happen to know of some excellent tube amps that are relatively cheap that would best serve a pair of onix reference 1s?
perhaps> cheaper amp with expensive tube = great sound
> semi-expensive with stock/other tubes = great sound
> expensive tube with stock = great sound

expensive is pretty relative here - use the SP3 (400 bucks+shipping used from forums) as expensive.

Thanks :]

You could always go the route of a more powerful SS amp and a tube pre. I briefly hooked up that Marantz power amp I've got in the FS section to the preout of my Max and it sounded pretty good, the gain was just too high on my Max to have usable listening levels in my nearfield setup (speakers are less than 2' from my head)


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


You could always go the route of a more powerful SS amp and a tube pre. I briefly hooked up that Marantz power amp I've got in the FS section to the preout of my Max and it sounded pretty good, the gain was just too high on my Max to have usable listening levels in my nearfield setup (speakers are less than 2' from my head)


I love how you always manage to have the right things just for me, and oh wait, its for sale too!


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *noname*


I love how you always manage to have the right things just for me, and oh wait, its for sale too!











that fact hadn't escaped me...









I actually purchased the amp to use with the Ref's and a tube pre. I could easily change the usable gain on my Max, but never did when plans changed. and the amp and refs have been sitting since. Well, the ref's have seen on and off duty, but mostly off.


----------



## H3||scr3am

my Marantz SR8001 seems to be having issues latetly, constantly tripping into *protected mode*... I wish it had a ground pin... or something... Any ideas on a cheap but effective power conditioner?


----------



## soloz2

I've picked up a few APC H15's for under $200 new so I'd start looking there... although I have had a recent bad experience with APC tech support, So were it me I'd be inclined to look at a trip lite or used on audiogon/ebay


----------



## noname

Hey guys,
I still have my reference 0.5s for sale-

http://forums.av123.com/showthread.p...904#post754904


----------



## scutzi128

That link is dead. Where in PA are you I may be interested. How do you think these would sound without a sub?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


That link is dead. Where in PA are you I may be interested. How do you think these would sound without a sub?


He's in eastern PA if I recall. They sound great without a sub, but better with one. They are smaller monitors and do not extend past about 40Hz


----------



## scutzi128

Yea I figured as much. I just don't want them to lack bass totally as I am looking to shed the massive boomyness of my z-680s which lack midbass and have too much low end. So I don't want them to shake the house but I want them to sound full at the same time. How do these compare to the ELT 525s?


----------



## soloz2

it's been a while since I've had ref .5's but I would say (generally speaking) the ref .5's are more detailed with a more crisp and extended top end. elt525m extend a bit lower and have a more full sound. With a sub I'd definitely pick ref .5's, without I might go elt525m. I've owned and used both, but primarily as sourrounds in my living room. I'd have to say as I recall the refs were slightly better, but as surrounds they don't have to hit anything low


----------



## scutzi128

Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Can we discuss car audio in here? Or is it just home audio? Just curious because I just posted in my car build log....my stereo install.


----------



## SlyFox

I've caught the bug, I love my ELT525M but I'll probably be upgrading in sixth months or so.
My Thoughts:

Onix Rocket RS450 (Hope my Receiver can power these)
EMP Tek Impression Series E5TiR (Audioholics gave these a killer review and are at a great price point, still hoping to see more reviews as they are relatively new)

Any other ideas??


----------



## FaLLeNAn9eL

I completely forgot I posted in here. I have the AV123 ELT525.


----------



## noname

You have a PM Scutzi.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SlyFox*


I've caught the bug, I love my ELT525M but I'll probably be upgrading in sixth months or so. 
My Thoughts:

Onix Rocket RS450 (Hope my Receiver can power these)
EMP Tek Impression Series E5TiR (Audioholics gave these a killer review and are at a great price point, still hoping to see more reviews as they are relatively new)

Any other ideas??


if you like the M's then I suggest the T's quite a step up.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Enigma8750* 

*This is what I have. The Promedia 2.1 Klipsch. They are 120 watts and sound so crisp that it is hard to explain.

May I be added to the Club. Thank you.*


not to sound rude but please read the op









*2) Membership and parameters:*

Membership is site-wide, but limited insofar as to the particular sort of gear a member is running in his audio setup.

With a few other select members, we briefly discussed any limitations or parameters needed to be set on acceptance into the club. We did this because certain brands, names, sorts are simply not up to standards with what is consistently deemed as quality across the entire hobby of audio. The issue is, of course, that a brand such as Logitech, which is truly not a quality product as far as speakers go, has reached a niche market in the pc-enthusiast world and maintains popularity in it. I personally feel that someone truly engaged and interested in speakers will have moved beyond Logitech, etc., at a certain point or is considering doing so eventually. As such, _we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters._

Yes, this may stir up some controversy, but for now these are the parameters. Thanks for your cooperation and understanding.


----------



## jarble

the D's are all linked up now







also guys if you find any problems please let me know linking this stuff is mind numbing and I am bound to make mistakes







.


----------



## scutzi128

Anyone got any suggestions for bookshelfs that don't need a sub to sound good? They will be used as mains for my pc.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *scutzi128* 
Anyone got any suggestions for bookshelfs that don't need a sub to sound good? They will be used as mains for my pc.

What's your budget? I'm really happy with my WAF-1's


----------



## scutzi128

Hopefully under $300.


----------



## Tator Tot

You can get $230 for just the WAF-1's, but the combo of Amp + Speakers is hard to pass up for what they offer.


----------



## noname

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


Anyone got any suggestions for bookshelfs that don't need a sub to sound good? They will be used as mains for my pc.


I've been very happy with my reference 0.5s, because they don't need a sub to sound good. I don't know how the WAF-1s compare, so i can't say which is better since i havent heard the two. 
From what i have heard the reference 0.5s are better on the highs and mids scale offering that crisp clear sound- where as the ELTs offer less clarity but more fullness.
For me, it depended on what kind of music i was going to listen to. 
I predominantly listen to electronica which was the driving factor for my purchase in the ref 0.5s.

To be honest- $300 is not going to get you anything decent new. I would look around on forums for used speakers and amps.
The TCA gizmo is the best buy used or new.


----------



## ljason8eg

Stretch that budget to $350 and you could get the Audioengine A5's. Sound excellent without a sub.


----------



## scutzi128

How about these? The 8" woofers should allow for very decent bass.

http://cgi.ebay.com/M-Audio-Studioph...item5639abc277


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


How about these? The 8" woofers should allow for very decent bass.

http://cgi.ebay.com/M-Audio-Studioph...item5639abc277


I've used their smaller sibling, the BX5a, extensively and have been pleased with the extension and punch for what they are - I'd imagine the 8" woofer only further helps that effort.


----------



## scutzi128

Any suggestions on how I should feed them? They take XLR and TRS. I am currently using my onboard asus soundcard.


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


Any suggestions on how I should feed them? They take XLR and TRS. I am currently using my onboard asus soundcard.


Well, if you needed to, you could make/buy a 1/8" stereo TRS to dual mono TS cable - I would be looking to save some extra cash and upgrade the sound card down the road.

EDIT: Something like this:
http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/IPMB2Q2/


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *scutzi128*


How about these? The 8" woofers should allow for very decent bass.

http://cgi.ebay.com/M-Audio-Studioph...item5639abc277


it's still a small enclosure though. You'd be better off getting better speakers and adding a sub later than looking for small monitors that will never need a sub, because IMHO it doesn't matter if they had 10" drivers they'll still be in a small enclosure (as small as a 10" driver can be...) and still won't give you the same impact and extension as a dedicated sub.


----------



## scutzi128

Thing is I don't want a sub. I just want decent bass. I already have 5.1 system in the same room hooked up to my htpc. It uses an H-100 sub which imo sounds very nice and has great extension.

I want this system so the bass does not shake the house and I have to hear everyone tell me to turn it down. Basically I want nice sound without any of the extremely low frequencies. My z-680s sound decent but the bass shakes the house and that's the problem I am mostly trying to resolve with this upgrade.

I remember at high school for a computers in music class hearing some Maudios. I think they were 8" and they sounded very nice with very good bass all considering their size.


----------



## .Sup

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
it's still a small enclosure though. You'd be better off getting better speakers and adding a sub later than looking for small monitors that will never need a sub, because IMHO it doesn't matter if they had 10" drivers they'll still be in a small enclosure (as small as a 10" driver can be...) and still won't give you the same impact and extension as a dedicated sub.

absolutely agree here. There's nothing like a sub when it comes to deep frequencies and low, extended bass


----------



## scutzi128

I certainly agree. For ultimate SQ there is no substitute for a dedicated sub. I normally love a good subwoofer but I am actually trying to avoid those super low frequencies that shake the house so I don't disturb others in my house. I have a big 5.1 system to do that with lol.


----------



## Sistum Id

Mines not much to most on OCN, but I like it so here it is. Much better than my 6 or 7 year old Sony 5.1 setup that would crackle during a airstrike on MW2 and would cause it to overheat and shutdown.

Front - 2 x Polk Audio Monitor 70's
Center - 1 x Polk Audo CS2
Rear - 2 x Polk Audio Monitor 40's
Sub - 1 x PSW505

Goes with a Onkyo TX-SR707 at top center and my Samsung HL56A650 56". Also include my HTPC on bottom, Elite on bottom left, PS3 on bottom right (not pictured, friend has it at the moment) Cox HD Cable box on top right and WRT54G-TM (for Xbox and HTPC and to extend my wi-fi in my house) router top left.

Also this room is somewhat in a work-in-progress, still need to nail the baseboards back on. Too busy plaing Mass Effect 1/2 to do hard labor at home.

Front









Rear









Old Sony 5.1 something bye bye system









Front speaker before and after


Normally looks with mesh and my son looking at the bubbles


----------



## LukeG

Nice job on mounting the center. Can you angle it down at all? Or is the sound stage good ?


----------



## solidsquirrell

nice polk set up there







, how is that CS2 working for ya, I've still got my CS1 for my center, and i must say I've very satisfied.

heres a link to my set up, though i moved everything to the living room now =]

http://picasaweb.google.com/supasqui...eat=directlink

i need to update those pics. I live in an apartment at the moment, so no sub for me.









but for subs i tend to go for svs.

(wonder if there should be a polk audio thread)


----------



## ANP !!!

Pretty nice setup Sistum.


----------



## TUDJ

Found a pair of Mission bookshelf's in the loft today, I had to try them out



























They caught me by surprise as they sounded a lot better than I expected, they have really good mids and surprisingly good bass for their size, they're a little on the bright side for my liking though. The soundstage was quite wide too considering they weren't placed _that_ far apart.

They're back in the loft now though as I much prefer the Tannoys.

Don't tell me I need a new TV, I'm fully aware and doing my best to rectify the issue!


----------



## theCanadian

Dude, a wide screen CRT is pretty ballin'


----------



## gorb

one of my friends had a sony wega 40" crt hdtv

thing weighed like 550 lbs


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gorb* 
one of my friends had a sony wega 40" crt hdtv

thing weighed like 550 lbs

They also look amazing though


----------



## G.E.Nauticus

Does Kirsch K3 count?


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Sistum Id* 
Mines not much to most on OCN, but I like it so here it is. Much better than my 6 or 7 year old Sony 5.1 setup that would crackle during a airstrike on MW2 and would cause it to overheat and shutdown.

Front - 2 x Polk Audio Monitor 70's
Center - 1 x Polk Audo CS2
Rear - 2 x Polk Audio Monitor 40's
Sub - 1 x PSW505

Goes with a Onkyo TX-SR707 at top center and my Samsung HL56A650 56". Also include my HTPC on bottom, Elite on bottom left, PS3 on bottom right (not pictured, friend has it at the moment) Cox HD Cable box on top right and WRT54G-TM (for Xbox and HTPC and to extend my wi-fi in my house) router top left.

Also this room is somewhat in a work-in-progress, still need to nail the baseboards back on. Too busy plaing Mass Effect 1/2 to do hard labor at home.

nice









Quote:


Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell* 
nice polk set up there







, how is that CS2 working for ya, I've still got my CS1 for my center, and i must say I've very satisfied.

heres a link to my set up, though i moved everything to the living room now =]

http://picasaweb.google.com/supasqui...eat=directlink

i need to update those pics. I live in an apartment at the moment, so no sub for me.









but for subs i tend to go for svs.

(wonder if there should be a polk audio thread)

































Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Found a pair of Mission bookshelf's in the loft today, I had to try them out









They caught me by surprise as they sounded a lot better than I expected, they have really good mids and surprisingly good bass for their size, they're a little on the bright side for my liking though. The soundstage was quite wide too considering they weren't placed _that_ far apart.

They're back in the loft now though as I much prefer the Tannoys.

Don't tell me I need a new TV, I'm fully aware and doing my best to rectify the issue!

you need a new tv and monitor (if have not fixed that yet) sorry I could not help myself







we all know it is all about the sound not the vid









Quote:


Originally Posted by *G.E.Nauticus* 
Does Kirsch K3 count?

we will go with yes as they are home audio and not pc


----------



## G.E.Nauticus

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 

*we will go with yes as they are home audio and not pc*

K when i get home ill Clean up the desk and post some pics


----------



## drjoey1500

Anyone have advice for sound treating a room? I just recently moved my speakers back into my bedroom which I cleaned up a lot. The only problem is it is all hardwood floors, flat walls and ceiling with very little stuff on it to absorb sound. It's pretty good positioning I think (with the exception of no place to sit in front of the speakers







), but the room echos a little just with voices or footsteps. I haven't gotten a chance to give it an honest listen, but I have a feeling I need some sound treatment. (btw the empty wall immediately behind the speakers is roughly 10' x 7-8'. The room is at least that deep)

Any suggestions for something cheap? (and advice on where to put it)

I haven't really finished re-organizing the room yet, so not everything is entirely set in place.


----------



## Sistum Id

Quote:


Originally Posted by *LukeG* 
Nice job on mounting the center. Can you angle it down at all? Or is the sound stage good ?

Sound good to me, I was acutally thinking about getting some wedges to angle it down. To be honest, I didn't know how big the CS2 and M40s were until they showed up. My reaction was this when I pulled the CS2 out the box




























then my girl friend is like




























Where is that going.






























Quote:


Originally Posted by *solidsquirrell* 
nice polk set up there







, how is that CS2 working for ya, I've still got my CS1 for my center, and i must say I've very satisfied.

heres a link to my set up, though i moved everything to the living room now =]

http://picasaweb.google.com/supasqui...eat=directlink

i need to update those pics. I live in an apartment at the moment, so no sub for me.









but for subs i tend to go for svs.

(wonder if there should be a polk audio thread)























You sit between your M70s? How's that working out?

I was thinking about doing the M60's for rear. Now I need to figure out if I want to bi-wire the 40's or the 60's.

I was so glad to getting out of an apartment and into my own house. As soon as I moved in, I pretty much ditched headphone gaming.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Anyone have advice for sound treating a room? I just recently moved my speakers back into my bedroom which I cleaned up a lot. The only problem is it is all hardwood floors, flat walls and ceiling with very little stuff on it to absorb sound. It's pretty good positioning I think (with the exception of no place to sit in front of the speakers







), but the room echos a little just with voices or footsteps. I haven't gotten a chance to give it an honest listen, but I have a feeling I need some sound treatment. (btw the empty wall immediately behind the speakers is roughly 10' x 7-8'. The room is at least that deep)

Any suggestions for something cheap? (and advice on where to put it)

I haven't really finished re-organizing the room yet, so not everything is entirely set in place.

cheap?

first, get a throw rug to place in front of the speakers. If that doesn't help then play around with placement a bit.
Really cheap wall treatments could include a heavy drape hanging on the wall.
If you don't want to do that then you can get some foam designed for studios and glue it to the wall, but I would suggest you save up a few hundred and get wall traps


----------



## jarble

the E's are done


----------



## gorb

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Anyone have advice for sound treating a room? I just recently moved my speakers back into my bedroom which I cleaned up a lot. The only problem is it is all hardwood floors, flat walls and ceiling with very little stuff on it to absorb sound. It's pretty good positioning I think (with the exception of no place to sit in front of the speakers







), but the room echos a little just with voices or footsteps. I haven't gotten a chance to give it an honest listen, but I have a feeling I need some sound treatment. (btw the empty wall immediately behind the speakers is roughly 10' x 7-8'. The room is at least that deep)

Any suggestions for something cheap? (and advice on where to put it)

I haven't really finished re-organizing the room yet, so not everything is entirely set in place.

Never used this myself, but
http://www.atsacoustics.com/page--Fr...ysis--ora.html
http://www.atsacoustics.com/cat--ATS...nels--100.html


----------



## solidsquirrell

Quote:

You sit between your M70s? How's that working out?

I was thinking about doing the M60's for rear. Now I need to figure out if I want to bi-wire the 40's or the 60's.

I was so glad to getting out of an apartment and into my own house. As soon as I moved in, I pretty much ditched headphone gaming
it worked quite nicely actually..Im in the first floor (thank gawd)! but still the sound does carry through these walls on to the entire building, but im fortunate to have pretty cool neighbors, so they don't mind. wheew. of course this is without a sub.. lol

those 70's weight a ton, compared to the 60's









i was going to go for 40's, but i did not want to spend money on stands, plus, im really picky about the position of rear speakers.
So I got the 60's one less thing to worry about, and the 60's sound a little bit deeper, but thats only because of the cabinet, and the third 5 1/4" woofer.

I now have my entire (sill need to get a sub) in the living room. Room dimensions, can have such a different impact on overall sound. These speakers are great for large areas.

as far as bi wiring, I haven't done so myself, im quite happy at the moment with how they sound. Plus it doesn't really take much to power them which is nice.
I have heard a lot of people bi wiring their 70's, so im sure you'll be able to find more info around..


----------



## Aura

Got my rig up on Audiogon the other day.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr...266856343&view


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Aura* 
Got my rig up on Audiogon the other day.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr...266856343&view

he lives


----------



## el-John-o

No pics yet, but sign me up!

Pioneer VSX-819H Reciever
Sherwood ST-4108 Package (5.1 w/ powered sub)
ATi HDMI Audio


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *el-John-o* 
No pics yet, but sign me up!

Pioneer VSX-819H
Sherwood ST-4108 Package (5.1 w/ powered sub)
ATi HDMI Audio











on a side note just ordered a ht omega claro halo







cant wait to hear it


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 









on a side note just ordered a ht omega claro halo







cant wait to hear it

Xonar D1 on the way here. Got it off ebay for really, really cheap.


----------



## Aura

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
he lives
















lol yeah.

i've got some plans for the rig this summer... not totally sure if i'll do it yet, but yeah. it'd be a nice surprise.


----------



## soloz2

posted my Ref 1 speakers, a Marantz power amp and a headphone amp in the fS section
http://www.overclock.net/audio/66587...ml#post8426853


----------



## SteelyKen

Hello to all OCN Speaker owners. I am new to the forum and stumbled into your thread.
I caught the audio bug again after a 20+ year hiatus. I bought a cheap (dollar amount, not quality) Onkyo Home Theater HTIB.
Over the course of 2 1/2 years I went through 3 Receivers, 4 sets of speakers and 3 subs
before being able to settle for my present setup.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SteelyKen* 
Hello to all OCN Speaker owners. I am new to the forum and stumbled into your thread.
I caught the audio bug again after a 20+ year hiatus. I bought a cheap (dollar amount, not quality) Onkyo Home Theater HTIB.
Over the course of 2 1/2 years I went through 3 Receivers, 4 sets of speakers and 3 subs
before being able to settle for my present setup.



















nice setup but I need model before I can add you


----------



## .Sup

Very nice setup Ken but lets face it that sofa is outdated


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SteelyKen* 
Hello to all OCN Speaker owners. I am new to the forum and stumbled into your thread.
I caught the audio bug again after a 20+ year hiatus. I bought a cheap (dollar amount, not quality) Onkyo Home Theater HTIB.
Over the course of 2 1/2 years I went through 3 Receivers, 4 sets of speakers and 3 subs
before being able to settle for my present setup.

You might get a better sound stage if you could separate your front left and front right speakers a little more.


----------



## SteelyKen

Oops.
Infinity Beta 50 towers
Infinity Beta C360 center
Infinity Beta ES250 surrounds
Outlaw LFM-1 Compact subwoofer

I love my beatnik futon!









I would love to spread out the towers more but it is impossible due to lack of space.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SteelyKen* 
Oops.
Infinity Beta 50 towers
Infinity Beta C360 center
Infinity Beta ES250 surrounds
Outlaw LFM-1 Compact subwoofer

I love my beatnik futon!









I would love to spread out the towers more but it is impossible due to lack of space.

a sledgehammer can really help open up your audio room
















ps thanks for the info and welcome to the club


----------



## Tiger S.

My neighbor's wife made him take down his man cave, so he traded me a pair of Klipsch F-2's for my extra Evga 8800gts. What a steal. Powered by NAD.









Some of Canada's finest.. PSB Alpha's I have had since my first Pentium. They still sound great.


----------



## gorb

very nice deal


----------



## ANP !!!

wow, did he trade the Speakers now or years ago when 8800GTS was relatively new ?? either way, you got a amazing deal.

Did minor changes to my setup


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ANP !!!*


wow, did he trade the Speakers now or years ago when 8800GTS was relatively new ?? either way, you got a amazing deal.

Did minor changes to my setup


























nice 
I find bi wiring is much easier than trying to deal with the bridges


----------



## ANP !!!

Thanks
Yes its much more easier to work with, and you always feel better thinking you are making full use of the SQ







.


----------



## TUDJ

I might be selling my Marantz PM4001 soon, is anyone interested? I also have a pair of Wharfedale 9.1's that I'd consider selling too, they sound great together


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
I might be selling my Marantz PM4001 soon, is anyone interested? I also have a pair of Wharfedale 9.1's that I'd consider selling too, they sound great together









gaaaa I did not need to see this (locks wallet in safe and eats key)


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jarble*


gaaaa I did not need to see this (locks wallet in safe and eats key)


_then realizes it's a combination lock. noooo, my car keys_


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED*


_then realizes it's a combination lock. noooo, my car keys_


----------



## TUDJ

Got some granite slabs [chopping boards] for under my speakers today




































There's less boom downstairs now (which was the main aim).

They might sound a little better too, I'll have to wait to decide on that as it might be my imagination, although they are much more stable now, they used to rock whenever I or others walked about in my room.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Got some granite slabs [chopping boards] for under my speakers today




































There's less boom downstairs now (which was the main aim).

They might sound a little better too, I'll have to wait to decide on that as it might be my imagination, although they are much more stable now, they used to rock whenever I or others walked about in my room.


sexy


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Got some granite slabs [chopping boards] for under my speakers today




































There's less boom downstairs now (which was the main aim).

They might sound a little better too, I'll have to wait to decide on that as it might be my imagination, although they are much more stable now, they used to rock whenever I or others walked about in my room.

just curious, how much did you pay for them? my apartment with full 5.1 on my main tv and 2.1 on both my PC and bedroom tv, creates alot of sound for neighbours, so I may look into a similar solution to help neighbours below...

cheap apartments with cheap low pile carpet suck


----------



## TUDJ

Â£12 each


----------



## paquitox

Hey guys, very nice speakers everyone has here.


----------



## Nuginu

I'll join. I'd be more than happy to post pics, but I'm lazy right now.
Here's mine.
Front and rear speakers:
Paradigme Monitor 11 speakers
Each speaker has:
High-Frequency Driver(s) 25-mm (1 in) H-PTDâ„¢ dome, 
ferro-fluid cooled 
Bass / Midrange Driver(s) 190-mm (7-1/2 in) M-ICPâ„¢ cone, 
25-mm (1 in) voice coil, die-cast heatsink chassis 
Bass Driver(s) Two 190-mm (7-1/2 in) carbon-infused polypropylene cones, 25-mm (1 in) voice coils, die-cast heatsink chassis 
Maximum Input Power 180 watts 
Frequency Response: Â±2 dB from 48 Hz - 20 kHz

Subwoofer: Paradigme DSP3400 
Bass Driver(s) 355-mm (14 in) CAPâ„¢ Carbon / Aramid-Fiber Polypropylene Cone, ceramic / ferrite magnet, 50-mm (2 in) 4-layer voice-coil, dual spiders, AVSâ„¢ die-cast heatsink chassis 
Amplifier: High-Current, Discrete Output 900 watts Dynamic Peak / 300 watts RMS Sustained

Amp: AVR-3808CI 
Amplifier Output Details 130 Watt - 8 Ohm - THD 0.05 % - 7 channel(s) ( Surround ) , 160 Watt - 6 Ohm - THD 0.7 % - 7 channel(s) ( Surround ) 
http://reviews.cnet.com/audio-system...-32553611.html DETAILED SPECS THERE

TV: Samsung 58" ToC 1080 p plasma TV
http://www.samsung.com/ca/consumer/t...pec&fullspec=F FULL SPECS here

Sorry for messy post, it was copied fomr what I posted for mine on the rigsofrods forums.


----------



## nafljhy

i would like to join too.









Speakers: B&W CM1s


----------



## jarble

updated


----------



## nafljhy

thanks jarby!


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nafljhy*


thanks jarby!










np m8


----------



## pioneerisloud

Nobody answered my question a few pages back....

Is this thread also designed for car audio speakers, or just home theater?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nafljhy*


i would like to join too.









Speakers: B&W CM1s






































what are you using for monitor stands?


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Nobody answered my question a few pages back....

Is this thread also designed for car audio speakers, or just home theater?


not that I am aware of but that does not mean it does not exist


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
what are you using for monitor stands?

auralex mopads


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Nobody answered my question a few pages back....

Is this thread also designed for car audio speakers, or just home theater?

No, we don't have a thread for HT or car audio. I wouldn't be opposed to a post pictures of your car audio or HT setups.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nafljhy* 
auralex mopads

No, _Monitor Stands_... not speaker stands... I have mopads on my desk as well


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
No, we don't have a thread for HT or car audio. I wouldn't be opposed to a post pictures of your car audio or HT setups.

No, _Monitor Stands_... not speaker stands... I have mopads on my desk as well










oh!







sorry!

it was actually something i made myself.








http://www.overclock.net/other-hardw...tor-stand.html


----------



## ALIGN

3 M&K S150`s fronts 4 M&K SS150`s surrounds & 2 MX350 subs


----------



## soloz2

looks great. Was hoping for something I could buy... no time to start a project like that.


----------



## nafljhy

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
looks great. Was hoping for something I could buy... no time to start a project like that.

thanks soloz! i do have enough material for another one though if you are interested.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Well, I was just curious what some of you audiophiles might recommend for some car audio subwoofers. I was looking at some Dayton Titanic MKIII 12's (3 of them), but I really don't know what I'm looking for honestly, lol. Looking for great sound quality (sealed), and I want them to get loud.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Well, I was just curious what some of you audiophiles might recommend for some car audio subwoofers. I was looking at some Dayton Titanic MKIII 12's (3 of them), but I really don't know what I'm looking for honestly, lol. Looking for great sound quality (sealed), and I want them to get loud.

im using an old 10" MTX road thunder just fine in my room. u can use a car sub if you want.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
im using an old 10" MTX road thunder just fine in my room. u can use a car sub if you want.









No no no....to put IN my car







. I know you can use car subs in the house. Heck, I've used my car sub AND amp in the house before just fine.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
No no no....to put IN my car







. I know you can use car subs in the house. Heck, I've used my car sub AND amp in the house before just fine.

ahh gatchya
http://caraudio.com/forum/search.php?searchid=121658


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Well, I was just curious what some of you audiophiles might recommend for some car audio subwoofers. I was looking at some Dayton Titanic MKIII 12's (3 of them), but I really don't know what I'm looking for honestly, lol. Looking for great sound quality (sealed), and I want them to get loud.


I certainly wouldn't use any cheap subs, and I'd stay away from anything square shaped etc.







. The Dayton subs would be nice, jl audio makes some good subs that sound pretty decent and will still move air.

Some of the best car audio subs for SQ were the old round Kicker Solo Baric subs. I've seen them in numerous pro cars and I've been running a pair of 10"s in my car since you could get them off the shelf... so it's been a while! Still running, never blown or anything. You can still buy the same subs from the company that actually built them: http://www.credencespeakers.com/Seri...Box_Series.htm
It's an American company, the subs are built right here in the USA, which was another plus to the old school kicker gear.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


I certainly wouldn't use any cheap subs, and I'd stay away from anything square shaped etc.







. The Dayton subs would be nice, jl audio makes some good subs that sound pretty decent and will still move air.

Some of the best car audio subs for SQ were the old round Kicker Solo Baric subs. I've seen them in numerous pro cars and I've been running a pair of 10"s in my car since you could get them off the shelf... so it's been a while! Still running, never blown or anything. You can still buy the same subs from the company that actually built them: http://www.credencespeakers.com/Seri...Box_Series.htm
It's an American company, the subs are built right here in the USA, which was another plus to the old school kicker gear.


Thanks for the tip







. Those Dayton Titanics look to be about what I'm after if I'm reading the specs right. 22Hz F3, 18.7mm Xmax....they seem like they're pretty decent drivers.


----------



## ai7lcy

My Quad 11L2s. Running them with a Marantz Sr4003. Add me to the club please.


----------



## jarble

updated


----------



## ai7lcy

^^Thanks


----------



## ANP !!!

Impressive stuff guys







.


----------



## ljason8eg

New desk, so new picture with the A5's.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
New desk, so new picture with the A5's.


















do you want me to change your pics out or keep the ones you have?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
do you want me to change your pics out or keep the ones you have?

Change it to the one I just posted since that's the "new" setup.

Thanks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Change it to the one I just posted since that's the "new" setup.

Thanks.

Wow. That setup is just amazing! I'm jealous.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
Wow. That setup is just amazing! I'm jealous.

Thanks man.


----------



## ai7lcy

@ljason8eg: Yup, that's neat !


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Change it to the one I just posted since that's the "new" setup.

Thanks.

done


----------



## Hexa

Do Audioengine A2's count?

Sorry I read through the first 5 or so pages of the thread and never saw a yes or no about them.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Hexa* 
Do Audioengine A2's count?

Sorry I read through the first 5 or so pages of the thread and never saw a yes or no about them.

Yes, they count.


----------



## ColSanderz

I hate being on a college budget

Rega RS7's
Onkyo M-282 (2 channel amp)
Paradigm DSP-3400


















now to find my camera for better pictures...


----------



## TUDJ

College budget? How much did you pay for the RS7's?


----------



## ColSanderz

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
College budget? How much did you pay for the RS7's?









Yah, I know. RS7's on a College Budget is an oxymoron. I paid a very modest $1700 before tax lol, plus $250 for the amp, so round $2100 and then the sub on top of that... I have no money now, but I like to think of it as a long term investment lol.


----------



## tmunn

Mine is very pieced together, but it still rocks.

Front = 2x Cerwin Vega VS120










Rear = 2x EPI Series 3 Model 100










Center = 1x Bose Acoustimass(flame away)










Finally, running the show = Carver HR 875


----------



## jarble

update


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tmunn* 
Mine is very pieced together, but it still rocks.

Front = 2x Cerwin Vega VS120










Rear = 2x EPI Series 3 Model 100










Center = 1x Bose Acoustimass(flame away)










Finally, running the show = Carver HR 875











Haa, that's ghetto. Love it.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ColSanderz* 
Yah, I know. RS7's on a College Budget is an oxymoron. I paid a very modest $1700 before tax lol, plus $250 for the amp, so round $2100 and then the sub on top of that... I have no money now, but I like to think of it as a long term investment lol.









It is, take good care of them, and they'll take good care of you for a long while yet


----------



## redalert

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Yes, they count.









Good I just my A2's today very impressive speakers much better than M-Audio AV-30's I was using. I wish I had more desktop space for the A5's.


----------



## jarble

update









ps my darkvoice arrived today







the tube pre really helps tame my bright room


----------



## TUDJ

I went into SuperFi (Hi-Fi retailer) today to buy an interconnect, it looks like it's cost me a new amp









On the shelf was a Marantz PM8003 with over Â£300 off, after demoing it with a few pairs of speakers including the Wharfedale 10.4 and Quad QUAD 21L2 I couldn't resist and put a deposit down as it's the last one.

Â£800 of amp for Â£450









Anyone interested in a pair of Wharedale 9.1?


----------



## XaNe

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Anyone interested in a pair of Wharedale 9.1?









Very Interested i have to get rid of my coffin sized speakers.


----------



## TUDJ

My Marantz is now up for sale, pair with some Â£100-150 bookshelf speakers for a great starter system.

http://www.overclock.net/audio/71050...ml#post9038322


----------



## Panoptic

Some pretty rad setups in the list there. Ahh why not, I'll bite. PC sound system is an Onkyo TX-SR602 receiver, Paradigm Studio 20 V.5 bookshelf speakers, and an AV-123 MFW-15 subwoofer.


----------



## jarble

update


----------



## drjoey1500

What would you guys recommend for a decent speaker/amp combo for <$200? It's not for me, for a friend. The amp doesn't have to be the best, basically what I'm looking for is a stereo setup that can be upgraded to 5.1 eventually. It won't be nearfield, it'll be for a home theater in a smallish room (wider than long. I believe it's roughly 20'x7'. The TV is on the wider wall.)

TBH, I don't know if he's planning on upgrading to full 5.1, or how much he's willing to spend on the final thing, so I don't know if he'll just stick to stereo, or upgrade and keep these as the front channels, or get better fronts and move these to the rear. It's all just planning right now, I'm not really sure tbh. What I do know is he'll most likely stick with whatever we decide on for a while at least (i.e. he won't upgrade right away).

I just assumed stereo has decent positioning for movies, is this true? I know I would rather have that than a cheap HTIB, but what about for someone who would watch more movies and TV?

I know the budget isn't enough for a receiver, so will he be able to use a normal amp for both TV and an external dvd or bluray player? I'm obviously a noob to home theater, so any clarification is welcome.


----------



## sorage

Here is my setup-
Amp: marantz sr6003
Klipsch all around
FRONT:rf-62
SURROUND rs-42(not shown)
CENTER: rc-52
SUBWOOFER: rw12d


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sorage* 









Here is my setup with marantz sr6003 klipsch all around rf-62 rs-41 rc-52 rw12d!!!

Looking good but the center placement is less than ideal, I'd guess that it's doing more harm than good to the sound placement where it currently is.


----------



## sorage

Yeah id like it on top but since im in appartment i cant really make holes in the walls


----------



## gorb

yeah that's like the worst center placement ever :O may as well not even use it. nice speakers though


----------



## Seanicy

Can I join? Too lazy to look at the model but it's a Sony 5.1 w/ twin Pro Studio towers...


----------



## jarble

will update when I get back to my pc trying to edit the list on my phone = fail lol


----------



## sorage

Nice setup!


----------



## Seanicy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *sorage*


Nice setup!


thanks! it's my 3D theater...


----------



## jarble

updated


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


What would you guys recommend for a decent speaker/amp combo for <$200? It's not for me, for a friend. The amp doesn't have to be the best, basically what I'm looking for is a stereo setup that can be upgraded to 5.1 eventually. It won't be nearfield, it'll be for a home theater in a smallish room (wider than long. I believe it's roughly 20'x7'. The TV is on the wider wall.)

TBH, I don't know if he's planning on upgrading to full 5.1, or how much he's willing to spend on the final thing, so I don't know if he'll just stick to stereo, or upgrade and keep these as the front channels, or get better fronts and move these to the rear. It's all just planning right now, I'm not really sure tbh. What I do know is he'll most likely stick with whatever we decide on for a while at least (i.e. he won't upgrade right away).

I just assumed stereo has decent positioning for movies, is this true? I know I would rather have that than a cheap HTIB, but what about for someone who would watch more movies and TV?

I know the budget isn't enough for a receiver, so will he be able to use a normal amp for both TV and an external dvd or bluray player? I'm obviously a noob to home theater, so any clarification is welcome.


Anyone?


----------



## L3gacy

Can I join? I have my PC connected with my home theatre with a fiber optic cable, 1000 Watt at max output



Do I need a picture of how I have it setup or is that fine?


----------



## sorage

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Anyone?

for 200$ you get a cheap amp


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sorage* 
for 200$ you get a cheap amp









You know... not to be nasty, but I think we all get that audio equipment is expensive. Why don't you actually answer with something that can help this guy out? He's got a very tight budget, so work with him.

I was thinking maybe something vintage/used for the amp and then throw the rest into the speakers. But I'm not a Home Theater guy, or even a very big speaker guy, so I don't think I'll be much help on specifics here. It's not going to be amazing, but for $200 lets see what we can cook up to hold this man over until he can get some real money together.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
You know... not to be nasty, but I think we all get that audio equipment is expensive. Why don't you actually answer with something that can help this guy out? He's got a very tight budget, so work with him.

I was thinking maybe something vintage/used for the amp and then throw the rest into the speakers. But I'm not a Home Theater guy, or even a very big speaker guy, so I don't think I'll be much help on specifics here. It's not going to be amazing, but for $200 lets see what we can cook up to hold this man over until he can get some real money together.

The reason no one answered before no one was willing to suggest a setup that could be built upon for that budget. I'm not even talking about a 'go big or go home' mentality here... the budget is just plain too small... even for used and/or budget gear. What do you want us to say? drjoey, with your friend's budget troll garage sales... but since you don't know what you're looking for good luck finding a good deal and not getting screwed...?

Tell your friend to double his budget then look for used speakers and receivers. At this price range it'll be easier to find online and if you're careful and patient you may not have to pay shipping. If he can't then he'll have to get something old that won't have the connectivity for future upgrades or some POS.


----------



## Behemoth777

Not sure if these count but I have a pair of audioengine a2's. They are great little speakers. When I'm not using my ad700's that is...


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


Originally Posted by *L3gacy* 
Can I join? I have my PC connected with my home theatre with a fiber optic cable, 1000 Watt at max output



Do I need a picture of how I have it setup or is that fine?

Those systems only put out about 100watts or below. Specs are way off. Have you ever seen HT amp with 1000watts? It will be 100lbs, and a tank.

If you through 1000watts into those speakers it would pop so quickly.

Those setups are great for computers though over computer speakers.


----------



## Tator Tot

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
The reason no one answered before no one was willing to suggest a setup that could be built upon for that budget. I'm not even talking about a 'go big or go home' mentality here... the budget is just plain too small... even for used and/or budget gear. What do you want us to say? drjoey, with your friend's budget troll garage sales... but since you don't know what you're looking for good luck finding a good deal and not getting screwed...?

Tell your friend to double his budget then look for used speakers and receivers. At this price range it'll be easier to find online and if you're careful and patient you may not have to pay shipping. If he can't then he'll have to get something old that won't have the connectivity for future upgrades or some POS.

Well if he just went up by $110, he could pick up a Gizmo v1.0M & 2 WAF-1's from TCA, shipped. (total of $310 shipped)

That'd probably be the lowest that he can go.

I've got the setup, and I'm rather impressed. I really like it.

And room wise, I've got a similar setup, my room is 9 x 14 with my TV on the long wall, and they produce more than enough sound for the gap.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *sorage* 
for 200$ you get a cheap amp









Uhm...ok, the guy's not really an audiophile, I'm just trying to get him something half decent that is capable of producing midbass...that doesn't come from the 'sub'







Basically, if he gets some cheap 5.1 htib he'll have mediocre sound, and speakers that he can't do anything with later.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
You know... not to be nasty, but I think we all get that audio equipment is expensive. Why don't you actually answer with something that can help this guy out? He's got a very tight budget, so work with him.

I was thinking maybe something vintage/used for the amp and then throw the rest into the speakers. But I'm not a Home Theater guy, or even a very big speaker guy, so I don't think I'll be much help on specifics here. It's not going to be amazing, but for $200 lets see what we can cook up to hold this man over until he can get some real money together.

I agree $200 isn't much at all, but again, it's not my money or my speakers. Remember, he's using the built in TV speakers right now.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
The reason no one answered before no one was willing to suggest a setup that could be built upon for that budget. I'm not even talking about a 'go big or go home' mentality here... the budget is just plain too small... even for used and/or budget gear. What do you want us to say? drjoey, with your friend's budget troll garage sales... but since you don't know what you're looking for good luck finding a good deal and not getting screwed...?

Tell your friend to double his budget then look for used speakers and receivers. At this price range it'll be easier to find online and if you're careful and patient you may not have to pay shipping. If he can't then he'll have to get something old that won't have the connectivity for future upgrades or some POS.

Like I said, it doesn't have to be perfect... I really just need to find a decent cheap amp like the sonic impact T-amp with more power. Somehow I don't think 10 watts is enough







.

I was considering offering to build the speakers, something like this even if I ate some of the cost to build them (you would understand if you knew the situation). The problem is, I don't know when he needs them done, and I'm busy with school at the moment, so time might be tight.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tator Tot* 
Well if he just went up by $110, he could pick up a Gizmo v1.0M & 2 WAF-1's from TCA, shipped. (total of $310 shipped)

That'd probably be the lowest that he can go.

I've got the setup, and I'm rather impressed. I really like it.

And room wise, I've got a similar setup, my room is 9 x 14 with my TV on the long wall, and they produce more than enough sound for the gap.

Thanks for the suggestion, but unfortunately his budget is pretty stiff. I'll talk to him though.


----------



## spice003

newegg has some polk audio Monitor 40's for $120 pair with promo code, and he can get like an old stereo amp from ebay, i just checked and they got some onkyo's on there for about $80-$120


----------



## bobfig

just probing here but dose anyone know a good bit about building some speakers? not sub woofer stuff but true bookshelf stuff. just would like some one to look over my specs before i make them.

i know about all the DIYspeaker places but i want to try here first.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *bobfig* 
just probing here but dose anyone know a good bit about building some speakers? not sub woofer stuff but true bookshelf stuff. just would like some one to look over my specs before i make them.

i know about all the DIYspeaker places but i want to try here first.

you should build a danny richie design.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Thanks for the suggestion, but unfortunately his budget is pretty stiff. I'll talk to him though.

http://www.gr-research.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=135

Try that for your friend?


----------



## Sickened1

Just ordered tonight! Im so psyched for a real sound setup








Would these get me into the club?


----------



## spice003

your system is gonna kick ass, great set up.


----------



## theCanadian

I'm looking for a 2.1 receiver for these between $200 and $300. Any suggestions?

I'll also probably be getting a Polk PSW10, unless someone can suggest a better one.


----------



## dgtlaser

Hello, who can recommend me a speaker set (5.1 or 2.1) for my pc.
My maximum budget is â‚¬120,- or 150$.

Thank in advance







.


----------



## wontonforevuh

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dgtlaser* 
Hello, who can recommend me a speaker set (5.1 or 2.1) for my pc.
My maximum budget is €120,- or 150$.

Thank in advance







.

I have Edifier M3400s. They are hard to find in the US but they are quality and great value for the price. And they have gotten glowing reviews from many sites (see Google). So in the US you can get them for about $80 shipped.

They are 2.1s with great bass and very clear treble.
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...em-review.html


----------



## gorb

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I'm looking for a 2.1 receiver for these between $200 and $300. Any suggestions?

I'll also probably be getting a Polk PSW10, unless someone can suggest a better one.

just look for a decent used receiver. no need to specifically search for a stereo receiver, any decent receiver will do. and i do not recommend the psw10. how much do you want to spend on a sub?


----------



## theCanadian

Total budget for a sub and a receiver is $400 ATM. Depending on how many hours I get over the summer, that number may go up. But I want to spend the weekends on the hunt so I know exactly what I'm going to get.


----------



## Arsin

Energy XL26

http://www.epinions.com/review/_Ener...nt_46292438660


----------



## theCanadian

BTW, why don't you recommend the PSW10? We have one for our home theater setup and even though it is a home theater, the sub isn't overpowering. I really just need something to fill out the bottom 30 HZ as my cabinets only come down to ~55 Hz before they slowly taper off.

This is the woofer: http://www.usspeaker.com/Delta-12A-1.htm

A guitar speaker to be sure, but I've cut it off at 800 Hz, and it's pretty flat all the way up to 2KHz, so it works for me


----------



## Jack4L

Sony SS-S9 Speakers in conjunction with the G51 logitech sound system.










Jack4L - Sony SS-S9 & Logitech G51 Sound System


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
BTW, why don't you recommend the PSW10? We have one for our home theater setup and even though it is a home theater, the sub isn't overpowering. I really just need something to fill out the bottom 30 HZ as my cabinets only come down to ~55 Hz before they slowly taper off.

This is the woofer: http://www.usspeaker.com/Delta-12A-1.htm

A guitar speaker to be sure, but I've cut it off at 800 Hz, and it's pretty flat all the way up to 2KHz, so it works for me









The PSW10 honestly looks like it has pretty weak specs from what I've seen. It only extends down to ~30Hz, and even then, I doubt its too successful at it. I'd personally recommend it if you're on a super tight budget for a sub. Otherwise there are of course MUCH better options out there.

Somebody else might know of a better sub $100 subwoofer though.


----------



## Bodycount

*I would like to get in on this.

I will get some pictures up when i get my replacement parts from Corsair"I'm on a temp laptop right now"

System:

Sunfire Theater Grand IV
Sunfire Cinema Grand
Audiocontrol Avalon

Speakers:

Klipsch:

Sp-1
Sp-3
SS-5

Venturi*


----------



## jarble

updated been extremely busy lately hopefully I can get the rest of the members linked soon


----------



## Xeroni

Replaced my old Pioneer towers with some Dayton B652s. Still using the Sony STR-DE598 receiver and SA-WMSP1 sub.










I also moved my sub from under my desk to the side compartment to make it less boomy.










Sorry about the grainy pics, my camera decided to not use the flash for whatever reason.


----------



## bobfig

i just finished making them so here ya go. went from a 5.1 to a 2.1 and im lovin' it so fare, just need a better amp to drive them.



















sorry for grainy pics, its the cheap camera.


----------



## jarble

update


----------



## meticadpa

Well... I'm joining your ranks soon.

I've got some Tannoy Mercury M2 speakers, a Samson Servo 120A amp and using my Musiland Monitor 02









I'll be getting the speakers and amp this week.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *meticadpa* 
Well... I'm joining your ranks soon.

I've got some Tannoy Mercury M2 speakers, a Samson Servo 120A amp and using my Musiland Monitor 02









I'll be getting the speakers and amp this week.

nice


----------



## ljason8eg

I've got an addition coming. My Velodyne Impact 12 subwoofer should be here on Tuesday.


----------



## Aden Florian

Just got a great deal on this HTIB at best buy. Is this worthy of being in the club? I don't plan on stopping with this though, but it's my first actual receiver/speaker setup. Previously had the Logitech G51. I use the samsung mainly for movies, played from the computer via optic, so I also play music from my comp.

SAMSUNG HT-AS730ST










I'll post pics after I move into yet another room.


----------



## Tchernobyl

Hullo. Friend of mine is an utter ho for audio, admittedly my fault (i first suggested he get a sound card to improve his audio... since then, he's spend nearly 3000$+ on various other audio hardware, so convincing me to get speakers/receiver is payback







) and he's managed to browbeat me into replacing my 7.1 creative set for something better:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882290098
Polk Audio TSi200
and that will accompany this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16882120164
ONKYO 5.1-Channel Home Theater Receiver TX-SR308

Will post pics when the hardware arrives... ordered it yesterday so it might be a while


----------



## Marin

Need monitors around $200, go!


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marin* 
Need monitors around $200, go!

I kinda partial to Polk so some TSi100.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107TSI1...h=Tsi100&ssi=0

also i could make you a copy of my book shelfs that made for around that price if ya want.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Marin* 
Need monitors around $200, go!

powered: Audio Engine A2
unpowered: TCA WAF-1


----------



## papcrap

Can I be added was into audio before I got into pc just found this club it grate thanks.








2xTannoy Mercury F4 Custom and a 1 Gale.








Marantz SR4400 and a eltax sub woofer








BaO S35








And I haven't gone mad that is a speaker not a picture.
Wharfedale PPS1


----------



## TUDJ

those Tannoys are squeezed in tight, did you get them in the crazy RS sale last year?


----------



## papcrap

Yeah I did last year they there only Â£150 I was so happy, I used to have the Tannoys at the back of the room but I have no idea why but they lost all the bass and sounded very flat , now I moved them to the front they sound grate again.


----------



## jarble

update


----------



## ljason8eg

It finally showed up!


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Shweet

I hope it makes a good _impact_ on your life....


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 
Shweet

I hope it makes a good _impact_ on your life....


















Lol oh it has.









I know its not the greatest or most powerful sub but for a 10'x11'x8' room its probably overkill lol.


----------



## jarble

updated


----------



## spice003

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Lol oh it has.









I know its not the greatest or most powerful sub but for a 10'x11'x8' room its probably overkill lol.

oh trust me its not, i have ED A2 - 300 Subwoofer and i wish i had a more powerful sub and my room is smaller then yours.

nice sub by the way.


----------



## spice003

sorry double post.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ljason8eg* 
Lol oh it has.









I know its not the greatest or most powerful sub but for a 10'x11'x8' room its probably overkill lol.

You can NEVER have too much sub







.


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You can NEVER have too much sub







.

Well I suppose if the drywall isn't crumbling and the windows all stay intact, you're right.









Thanks for all the help again on picking a sub out. Even if I did go in a different direction lol.


----------



## Tchernobyl

Cleanliness is for chumps!

polk audio TSi200, to go with the Onkyo TX-SR308 reciever


----------



## spice003

is that a bike handle i see? where do you sleep


----------



## Tchernobyl

Yes it is! The bike handle is actually leaning against a couch. And that crt screen on the lower right? That's actually about 10ish feet away. There's another "room" on the other side of that wall, with the bed. And a HDTV, and a few consoles >_>


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Tchernobyl* 









Cleanliness is for chumps!

polk audio TSi200, to go with the Onkyo TX-SR308 reciever

It's not that it's messy, it's just a small space and a little mess seems big. I have the same problem... just not quite as bad LoL. My apt must be bigger.









Hoard on!


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 
It's not that it's messy, it's just a small space and a little mess seems big. I have the same problem... just not quite as bad LoL. My apt must be bigger.









Hoard on!









Take a peek at the right side of the frame and you might change your mind. And under the desk.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Take a peek at the right side of the frame and you might change your mind. And under the desk.

Stop being so judgmental!


----------



## FearSC549

May I join?








Dayton B652 bookshelf paired with an Onkyo TX-8511 and Acoustic Reference Studio Monitor 1201 Series(they're actually 'decent' white van speakers) paired with a Pioneer VSX-918V(not pictured).


----------



## .Sup

Oh yes you may, Fear, gorgeous looking pair! How do they sound?


----------



## theCanadian

If you were on a tight budget (respectively speaking), but still wanted worthwhile gear, what would you get for a sub-woofer and a receiver for a stereo setup for your college apartment?

Working with these cabinets, but budget is uncertain until my final paycheck of the summer.

Also, should I port them?


----------



## bobfig

The sub i like at the moment is the polk psw110. It my not be the best but from what i have seen is its a darn nice sub. It goes for ~$250. You can check it out at your local best buy. As for a reciver it depends on how much you wana spend. I got mine off of creigslist for $100 mint


----------



## theCanadian

Anything in the sub 30Hz range? Preferably in the low 20Hz?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Anything in the sub 30Hz range? Preferably in the low 20Hz?

Something that gets down to the low 20s with any sort of SPL is going to cost quite a bit of money. Talking $500 or so at least for strong response in low 20Hz range


----------



## theCanadian

Any other takers on a receiver? Looking for about 100w per channel (only ever intend to have a 2.1 setup), but could dip as low as 50w if the quality is there.

This sub any good? It seems rated for a little lower down the spectrum... http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-SUB-120.../dp/B000C9NV78


----------



## TUDJ

Is there a reason you want a reciever over a stereo amp?

What speakers are you using? 100W P/C is more than enough for most speakers and the amount of watts doesn't mean better sound. Some tube amps have as little as 10W P/C which can be plenty when paired with the right speakers.

Secondly, how much can you spend on an amp?


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Is there a reason you want a reciever over a stereo amp?

What speakers are you using? 100W P/C is more than enough for most speakers and the amount of watts doesn't mean better sound. Some tube amps have as little as 10W P/C which can be plenty when paired with the right speakers.

Secondly, how much can you spend on an amp?

I'm using a 4.5wpc amp with my PC setup. I have a Marantz 115wpc receiver in my HT setup and I wish it had more power.









For cheap subs dayton are decent, the 'famous maker' ones parts express has might be better.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Is there a reason you want a reciever over a stereo amp?

What speakers are you using? 100W P/C is more than enough for most speakers and the amount of watts doesn't mean better sound. Some tube amps have as little as 10W P/C which can be plenty when paired with the right speakers.

Secondly, how much can you spend on an amp?

I have these cabinets. They can handle far more than 100W.

As far as what I'm using to amplify with, it doesn't matter. So long as some way down the road I'm going to be able to hook up a turntable without having to mess around with constantly changing inputs. And of course, it needs to be 2.1.

Though a radio tuner would be nice.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I have these cabinets. They can handle far more than 100W.

As far as what I'm using to amplify with, it doesn't matter. So long as some way down the road I'm going to be able to hook up a turntable without having to mess around with constantly changing inputs. And of course, it needs to be 2.1.

Though a radio tuner would be nice.

where do you live in north carolina? i didnt know where so i just searched craigslist in the city Asheville and found 2 possibility for a receiver for under $150.
http://asheville.craigslist.org/ele/1772007224.html
http://asheville.craigslist.org/ele/1814732145.html


----------



## theCanadian

I would love that Kenwood, but I'm in the Raleigh area. I would spend almost as much on gas as for the receiver. :\\


----------



## bobfig

then some possabilitys:
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ele/1789092872.html $175
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ele/1814548211.html $225
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ele/1782122896.html $50 supposedly works but the display doesn't work
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ele/1776021960.html $70
http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ele/1771932331.html $100

the ones i would look int are in orange. remember you can try to haggle with them, just don't go to low. i got my yamaha of a dude on here that was listed for $125 but i offered him $100 and he took it. its mint condition and not a single problem or scratch.


----------



## theCanadian

Yay, picked up a refurbed Pioneer VSX-516 off ebay. It was a Sears floor model.

It also includes:


Universal docking station for MP3 players
Wall mounts for speakers (8lb limit)
Rocketfish & dynex cables, 11 piece
20 foot stereo rca's.
6 feet optical audio
component cables
speaker Banana plugs (8)
I got all of it for $99 + $40 shipping.

You could easily pay $100 for just the included accessories. If you need any of this stuff, keep an eye out for freebies.


----------



## bobfig

congrats


----------



## TARRCO

I know I probs wont get in with this set of speakers but I may aswell try.









These speakers are the speakers that replaced my Z-2300's.

So there being used for my computer.

Half of the stuff is from the local tip but works and sounds like a charm









I stereo where its all plugged in cost me $3 from the tip. It has a dodgy CD PLAYER but I only use it for AUX









ALLLL My speakers are connected to this stereo. Including the subs
















This stereo puts out reallly nice bass. Good thing that the tall stands have a 3 way crossover. So at the same time I'm getting really nice bass and really nice voice from the same stereo









The stereo is a Sony MHC-DX30 and it's only 175W! But this with Groove(some type of bass booster) and the EQ set for more bass at full volume the speakers go extremely loud and **** loads of bass and theres like the tiniest bit of distortion from the tall stands. But thats at full volume. And this stereo only being 175W and one of the subs I have connected to it is rated at 1000w peak and 300w rms... So it's pretty powerfull.. well for a $3 stereo xD.

and it has alot of neat little functions like the EQ and the spectrum looks pretty cool









*pic of the stereo -*









*yess I have every speaker connected into those 2 channels







*


















The right tall stand..



























*I read in a forum along time ago that the drivers in these are made by Yamaha but not sure..*

*This sub was like 4buks from the tip. Its pretty good for the lows and its only 6.5". Its branded Panasonic*










*This sub (the driver) was out of a old Sony speaker system. I made it a box and it sounds alright... its 8.5".. The box is just a regular ported box.*










*This sub is a Kenwood KFC-W2511. The driver cost me $70 buks brand new and I just made it a box.*




























*The left tall stand.*



















*These tall stands arent that bad for what they cost me... The box is made out of MDF and they have a 3 way crossover.*



















*Someone who lives in australia and has been to Dick Smith will know about these.*




























*I live at home with 2 parents and 4 brothers...So yeah I have these turned up the house rattles and mum and dad go offf chops







So I have to have all 3 subs on switches







*



















Oh and... My z-2300's have been packed up in there box for months now.. I only use them at LANs sometimes.. I have no idea what to do with them xD.










*Let me know what you think







*


----------



## SUPER PISSED

That's a pretty neat little set up there. I'm surprised the stereo hasn't gone nuclear lol

I'm sure you'll get in


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 
That's a pretty neat little set up there. I'm surprised the stereo hasn't gone nuclear lol

I'm sure you'll get in

Yeah I'm surprised aswell haha. It does heat up alot though after many hours of usage but the fan eventually turns on...

Thanks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

@Tarrco:
You DESPERATELY need a proper amplifier to push that Kenwood sub, and likely your towers as well







.

That Kenwood is a killer subwoofer too. I've used them before, they sound GREAT on rock.


----------



## punker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TARRCO* 
I know I probs wont get in with this set of speakers but I may aswell try.









These speakers are the speakers that replaced my Z-2300's.

So there being used for my computer.

Half of the stuff is from the local tip but works and sounds like a charm









I stereo where its all plugged in cost me $3 from the tip. It has a dodgy CD PLAYER but I only use it for AUX









ALLLL My speakers are connected to this stereo. Including the subs
















*Let me know what you think







*


meh

you should connect the subs to another amp

ur going to fry that one

i added my CAR sub woofer to another amp

to a cheap wal-mart one i rather fry a cheap used 20$ VS a 200$ amp

plus the wal-mart amp uses a 4ohm so doe the sub

so the risk of cooking the amp is low(Modded with a small fan .Automatic speed )


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
@Tarrco:
You DESPERATELY need a proper amplifier to push that Kenwood sub, and likely your towers as well







.

That Kenwood is a killer subwoofer too. I've used them before, they sound GREAT on rock.

Yeahh I'm planning on putting the Kenwood in my car when I get one lol. So gonna get the AMP and stuff later on. But this setup atm is just for my room so yeah. It sounds alright aswell of the Sony stereo but yeah it has alot more potential. I was thinking on using the z-2300's amp to power it but meh.


----------



## TARRCO

Nahh the stereo wont fry







I've been using the same setup and stereo for months now xD.

And yeah might get a cheap amp from the pawn shop or something.


----------



## pioneerisloud

@punker:
That cheapo Wal Mart amp must have been REALLY cheap to not have blown that XPlod yet







. Seriously, I've killed a PAIR of those 12's off 100w RMS before.

What is with all the crap Sony love today?


----------



## Bodycount

Am i the only member here that uses Sunfire?

And i thought this was a audiophile club?


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Am i the only member here that uses Sunfire?

And i thought this was a audiophile club?

I dont have a job nor the money to pay for Audiophile class speakers.. So I have to make do with these









They sound alright for the music I listen to...


----------



## punker

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
@punker:
That cheapo Wal Mart amp must have been REALLY cheap to not have blown that XPlod yet







. Seriously, I've killed a PAIR of those 12's off 100w RMS before.

What is with all the crap Sony love today?

i will post a pix of the guts of the amp(cheap china-mart amp)

it's pr0n if your a robot


----------



## Metonymy

Sooo.... my new desktop build as listed in my sig is hooked up via HDMI. (It's the one in the pic below.) Can't see the side or back surround speakers, but you can use your imagination.

Just picked up this Onkyo HT-S7200 system yesterday at Fry's. Gaming in 7.1 surround on a 40" LCD is full of win.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *TARRCO* 
I dont have a job nor the money to pay for Audiophile class speakers.. So I have to make do with these









They sound alright for the music I listen to...

No harm no foul









I was under the impresion this was Audiophile only. Sell your left kidney kinda stuff.







Tho i may be wrong.








I just wasn't expecting see the Sony combo unit and the rest


----------



## KOBALT

Could my Logitech X-540 qualify?

i used to be hardcore into home audio with some REAL bad stuff, but this is my first PC sound system, if you will. It'd be nice to get back in the game. I'm a big audiofile.

USED to have Sony receiver, 6 Sony bookshelfs, (2) KLH cabinets with 2 tweeters, (2) horn drivers, (2) 15's each..... a dual 12" woofer box with dual horn drivers, (12) 8" subs underneath the waterbed...... it was fun.... dont remember too much more besides that... like 8 years ago










and my parents actually let me crank it up... it was awesome... it would rattle the gutters.

Rap sucks, BTW.... Rock FTW


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *KOBALT* 
Could my Logitech X-540 qualify?

i used to be hardcore into home audio with some REAL bad stuff, but this is my first PC sound system, if you will. It'd be nice to get back in the game. I'm a big audiofile.

USED to have Sony receiver, 6 Sony bookshelfs, (2) KLH cabinets with 2 tweeters, (2) horn drivers, (2) 15's each..... a dual 12" woofer box with dual horn drivers, (12) 8" subs underneath the waterbed...... it was fun.... dont remember too much more besides that... like 8 years ago









and my parents actually let me crank it up... it was awesome... it would rattle the gutters.

Rap sucks, BTW.... Rock FTW

Read the first post







. Logitech and other PC based speakers do not qualify.


----------



## jarble

hey guys sorry for the slow updates







not had much time on my hands lately


----------



## H-man

Does something from Coby count?


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Idiot* 
Does something from Coby count?

Umm No


----------



## Bizong

I own a pair of sierra-1's ran through a audio-gd dac-19 and a NAD C 326BEE stereo amplifier. Also have a rythmik f12 coming soon.


----------



## gorb

nice. those are on my amazon wishlist, maybe somebody will buy them for me


----------



## Xraven771

Not Great Images But :
Setup:









Acoustic Energy Aegis x4









Yamaha AV RX-V350


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Xraven771* 
Not Great Images But :
Setup:
http://imgur.com/0pPOZ.jpg

Acoustic Energy Aegis x4
http://imgur.com/FakXI.jpg

Yamaha AV RX-V350









oo my iw as about to say u stole my receiver... i had to look to be sue i still had it.


----------



## Xraven771

xD its a good receiver got it the outer day works well







got the receiver + 4 speakers and Sub (Yamaha YST-SW105) for Â£75


----------



## richardrubiks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I guess I'll never get away without posting here. This is part of one of my speaker setups. I just finished these today







My latest 'upgrade' DIY outriggers for my av123 ELT525T's




























Preliminary listening seems that the highs aren't quite as open as previously (I was using 12x12" granite slabs under the speakers) so more listening tests are in order. The speakers are more sable, but I may look into 18x18" slabs :dizzy:

OMG that rose color wood is sexy.

Okay so I will take pictures eventually when I get back to college as I had to trade to the smaller room since my younger brother actually lives at the house year round (I be a coliege stutent) so all my stuff is piled up in the corner waiting for the dorm room again.
I will attach a picture of the 8 feet of speakers via me camera phone [sorry]

Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR502
Front Speakers: Kenwood KS-H52 (3 way speakers)
Rear speakers: [not pictured they are in the attic] are some Fisher somethings that has a 15" cloth woofer 120w RMS input they be BEASTs
Alt Rear Speakers(for dorm room or space contraints): Bose Acoustimass # redlines cannot remember which they are I think they are the 5 series
Center: KLH 943PL
Sub: AIWA TS-WM7

and the computer speakers up top are some old JBLPros of some kind that came from my parents which they had for the old Compaq desktop


----------



## richardrubiks

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FearSC549* 
May I join?








Dayton B652 bookshelf paired with an Onkyo TX-8511 and Acoustic Reference Studio Monitor 1201 Series(they're actually 'decent' white van speakers) paired with a Pioneer VSX-918V(not pictured).


Now when You say white van speakers did you buy them out of the van or did the person you bought them off of do?









cause if you bought them I don't think they will let you in


----------



## theCanadian

My subwoofer and reciever should come this week.

I actually have 4 separate boxes due this week. So excited!


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
My subwoofer and reciever should come this week.

I actually have 4 separate boxes due this week. So excited!




















































OMG OMG OMG OMG ITS CHRISTMAS!!!!


----------



## theCanadian

Sub came. Dayton SUB HT-120. A poor man's sub to be sure, but it should work.

Also, I put new black grill cloth onto my cabinets. Welcome to the 21st Century my speakers!


----------



## wright8790

Got my speakers on the way from Newegg,

Polk Monitor 40's for bookshelf and Polk PSW10 Sub

Should be here tomorrow sometime,







!!!


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Sub came. Dayton SUB HT-120. A poor man's sub to be sure, but it should work.

Also, I put new black grill cloth onto my cabinets. Welcome to the 21st Century my speakers!

Does that stuff look purple to you? IMO it has a purplish tinge to it. I wonder if it can be washed, I'd think that would take care of it.


----------



## theCanadian

It looks fine to me. Maybe not pure black. Its a really really dark grey. It's a bit thin so I doubled it up. Looks great.

You could probably soak it in some black RIT dye for five minutes and it'll look REALLY black then.


----------



## theCanadian

My receiver I purchased off of ebay arrived today.

It was listed as in "very good condition" and the pictures showed this from various angles. It was held up in customs for well over a week and when it finally arrived, both the box and the receiver were heavily damaged, though considering the condition the box was in, I'm surprised the receiver wasn't worse off than it is.

There was no packaging material in the box what so ever, and there was no notice in the box from customs letting me know the box had been opened. Very dissatisfied with this seller.

Damage:
More scratches than can be counted
5 dents
1 crumpled corner

When I get this resolved I'll let you guys know who the seller was and what the final outcome was. It's a bit premature to disrespect their reputation at this point.


----------



## bobfig

I hope you get this figured out.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


My receiver I purchased off of ebay arrived today.

It was listed as in "very good condition" and the pictures showed this from various angles. It was held up in customs for well over a week and when it finally arrived, both the box and the receiver were heavily damaged, though considering the condition the box was in, I'm surprised the receiver wasn't worse off than it is.

There was no packaging material in the box what so ever, and there was no notice in the box from customs letting me know the box had been opened. Very dissatisfied with this seller.

Damage:
More scratches than can be counted
5 dents
1 crumpled corner

When I get this resolved I'll let you guys know who the seller was and what the final outcome was. It's a bit premature to disrespect their reputation at this point.



Not really. If it was packaged properly it could have gone through hell and back.

Send it back to him with anthrax on it


----------



## soloz2

I prefer to sell electronics locally, but always request double-box and insurance either if I'm shipping or receiving.

I hope it works out for you.


----------



## theCanadian

So apparently it was a new employee who packed my receiver. I'm being refunded $25. I wanted $35, to cover the cost of a new metal shell which I can purchase from Pioneer. But I guess this will do.

One of the roughest deals I've ever done, but I'll be leaving positive feedback.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


So apparently it was a new employee who packed my receiver. I'm being refunded $25. I wanted $35, to cover the cost of a new metal shell which I can purchase from Pioneer. But I guess this will do.

One of the roughest deals I've ever done, but I'll be leaving positive feedback.


I wouldn't have settled... made them ship me a new one for free.


----------



## Th0m0_202

I WIN!!!!!! MINES BIGGER N LOUDER! lol jks. 2-3 weeks away from getting my new kenwood amp tho







soooo im only using my thx-z2300 at the moment








then pioneer cs-2100-x goodness








and yer i would of had a go at then about it


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Th0m0_202* 
I WIN!!!!!! MINES BIGGER N LOUDER! lol jks. 2-3 weeks away from getting my new kenwood amp tho







soooo im only using my thx-z2300 at the moment








then pioneer cs-2100-x goodness








and yer i would of had a go at then about it

Mines bigger


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
I wouldn't have settled... made them ship me a new one for free.

The unit was an older (discontinued) model that had been refurbed. Getting a new one from them would have been nigh impossible. Besides, now my apt. mates can beat on it and I can hold onto the cash for a new shell when I move into a better place.


----------



## Th0m0_202

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED*


Mines bigger











if you own them than dam. im beaten.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Th0m0_202* 
if you own them than dam. im beaten.









Indeed I do. Old but only pic.


----------



## Fany

M-Audio AV40's are the best! Atleast for their price range...


----------



## computeruler

Ok change me. Right now I have 2 kenwood jl-630ws.


----------



## Snoopykins

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED*


Mines bigger











No, mine's bigger.










And yes, I do own them. I will take a picture if needed.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *snoopykins* 
no, mine's bigger.










and yes, i do own them. I will take a picture if needed.

xd

---edit---

OCN wont let me make the X D face


----------



## jarble

hey guys left for a cruse but I am back now. I will update the list asap


----------



## Mikecdm

I saw a pair of Paradigm Studio 60v2 on craigslist that I'm tempted to buy, but really don't want to spend the money on them. Think his asking price of $500 is too much, but they sure do look pretty.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Mikecdm* 
I saw a pair of Paradigm Studio 60v2 on craigslist that I'm tempted to buy, but really don't want to spend the money on them. Think his asking price of $500 is too much, but they sure do look pretty.

If you don't have the spare money you don't have the spare money. There's always speakers out there for sale.

Indeed $500 is a tad much for them used IMO. Owner probly paid $1000-$1200 for them though, so good luck talking him down. For $500 they still wouldn't be a bad buy though, assuming they're in very good condition.


----------



## Mikecdm

The speakers are pretty old, probably around 7-8 yrs old. In the pics, they look excellent, but who knows. I remember when I first bought some B&W 601's, I auditioned the Paradigm Studio 20. I liked the Studio's more, but they were more expensive. These Studio in particular have the option of real wood veneer, so they probably cost more than the regular model.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mikecdm*


The speakers are pretty old, probably around 7-8 yrs old. In the pics, they look excellent, but who knows. I remember when I first bought some B&W 601's, I auditioned the Paradigm Studio 20. I liked the Studio's more, but they were more expensive. These Studio in particular have the option of real wood veneer, so they probably cost more than the regular model.


6-7 years is nothing for a well cared for pair of speakers. I see 20+ year old speakers all the time. Heck, the subwoofers in my car are about 11 years old and my dad still has the pair of speakers he got in college 30+ years ago that are still powered by a Pioneer receiver that's just as old (for his 50th birthday I reconditioned the same model receiver he originally purchased with the speakers)


----------



## Mikecdm

Maybe I made it seem wrong. What I meant is that there about 3 generations of speakers ahead of these. All of my speakers in my HT are about the same age and they are in pristine condition. I just have the urge to buy some speakers or something audio related, but don't really want to spend a lot. I liked similar model paradigm speakers years ago and these look rather nice and should sound good too. I don't think I have the power to push them properly, since I have a low model 75w/ch denon avr. These speakers are basically for my bedroom.


----------



## VW_05_08

Hmm, what's in the box ? ^^

I think I'm the first one here in the speaker club with Focal speakers actually. I'll post a picture of the actual speakers when they are set-up.


----------



## Mike-O

Wharfedale Diamond 9.2-s accompanied by a Tannoy Mercury Mx-Sub 10.


















Me likey.


----------



## ericld

Just got these today, a pair of Pioneer S-D9000s. Haven't figured out where I want to use them yet. I will try them this weekend with my TSI-100s as rears with my entertainment system. But, where I really want to hear them is with my sig. They are kind of heavy to be haulin up and down the stairs, but I do have a feeling that the wifey will not want to look at them flanking the TV.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericld* 
Just got these today, a pair of Pioneer S-D9000s. Haven't figured out where I want to use them yet. I will try them this weekend with my TSI-100s as rears with my entertainment system. But, where I really want to hear them is with my sig. They are kind of heavy to be haulin up and down the stairs, but I do have a feeling that the wifey will not want to look at them flanking the TV.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Very nice indeed

I can't find any info on them online?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericld* 
Just got these today, a pair of Pioneer S-D9000s. Haven't figured out where I want to use them yet. I will try them this weekend with my TSI-100s as rears with my entertainment system. But, where I really want to hear them is with my sig. They are kind of heavy to be haulin up and down the stairs, but I do have a feeling that the wifey will not want to look at them flanking the TV.

it may be rare some times you may have to play the man card in life and this may be one of them.


----------



## fix0r75

I have the old Logitech Z-640 5.1 and the sub is on the floor underneath my table/slash desk


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fix0r75* 
I have the old Logitech Z-640 5.1 and the sub is on the floor underneath my table/slash desk









Nope


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *fix0r75* 
I have the old Logitech Z-640 5.1 and the sub is on the floor underneath my table/slash desk









Please read the original post. Any "PC Speakers" such as Logitech are not considered real speakers, so they are not added to this thread.


----------



## theCanadian

You can update me to read: Custom + Dayton SUB-120 HT + Pioneer VSX-516

The Dayton subwoofer turned out to be a pretty good buy. I know it's technically a home theater subwoofer, but it does a respectable job with music too. I don't think I could have found a better sub for the money.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Nah man, the Dayton subs are great. I'm still debating on buying a couple of their Reference 12's for my car







.

How is that Pioneer receiver treating you? I'm running a VSX-504S myself.


----------



## theCanadian

I hear those Reference 12's use the same box dimensions as the SUB-120. And the Reference 12" subwoofer which uses those same drivers list's for $700. An enticing opportunity presents itself.









As far as the receiver goes, it's not a bad little unit. It's certainly capable of doing more than I ask of it. I don't really have the equipment to put it through it's proper courses though.


----------



## dragonxwas

Do custom diy speakers and enclosures count ??
If so add me in the list..will upload photo if needed..


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


Originally Posted by *dragonxwas* 
Do custom diy speakers and enclosures count ??
If so add me in the list..will upload photo if needed..

I believe so.. Some of myne where custom made boxes and I got added to the list









Uplooaad some pics


----------



## jarble

update







I know its late as heck please don't roast me over the coals


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I hear those Reference 12's use the same box dimensions as the SUB-120. And the Reference 12" subwoofer which uses those same drivers list's for $700. An enticing opportunity presents itself.









As far as the receiver goes, it's not a bad little unit. It's certainly capable of doing more than I ask of it. I don't really have the equipment to put it through it's proper courses though.

I honestly wouldn't put the Reference 12 in your SUB120 system. Your current amplifier will not be enough to power the Reference 12. That's probably why the Reference Home Theater sub is so costly, a bigger amp is installed.

Now if you happen to get your hands on a 400-500w RMS plate amp, and the Reference 12....that's another story







.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I honestly wouldn't put the Reference 12 in your SUB120 system. Your current amplifier will not be enough to power the Reference 12. That's probably why the Reference Home Theater sub is so costly, a bigger amp is installed.

Now if you happen to get your hands on a 400-500w RMS plate amp, and the Reference 12....that's another story







.


That's what I mean. You can buy the same plate amp for $200.

$140 - SUB-120
$140 - Reference 12"
$200 - Dayton HPSA500 plate amp
-----------
$480

Still a great deal. And I already have the SUB-120, so my next upgrade will likely be a DIY.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I honestly wouldn't put the Reference 12 in your SUB120 system. Your current amplifier will not be enough to power the Reference 12. That's probably why the Reference Home Theater sub is so costly, a bigger amp is installed.

Now if you happen to get your hands on a 400-500w RMS plate amp, and the Reference 12....that's another story







.

Don't forget the enclosure. I'm sure the more expensive one is in a much sturdier enclosure.

If you do do it, make one yourself out of some 1" MDF







.


----------



## Behemoth777

I'll join the club! I've got a pair of audioengine a2's + Polk PSW10. They sound awesome together and is great for music and movies. When I get a house of my own I will probably get into home theater sound. But that is a few years away, I hope.


----------



## Ecchi-BANZAII!!!

Will soon upgrade from what I thought was regular speakers to DALI Concept 2 and DALI Concept 8 along with a NAD T747.

Didn't know my Fisher F4 was that Vintage... well, well.


----------



## Fany

I just wanted to spazzz about how much I love my Tannoy Reveal 501a's!

Can't get enough!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Here's an updated shot of my speakers, now installed







. Please ignore the mess, since I'm forced to keep my rig in the garage for now. Once I move, things will be VERY cleaned up.

And I am absolutely LOVING these speakers







. They sound SOOO clean, just take a look at their frequency graph







. Only thing I have done with my EQ, is I have the 60Hz boosted +2dB, mids are SLIGHTLY lowered (a few are at 0dB, a few are at -2dB), and my treble is boosted +2dB @ 16kHz. Other than that, I play them 100% level.

I blew my stupid Logitech Clearchat's left channel though while testing these bad boys







. Good thing I've got some real headphones on their way to me from the egg







.

On to the pictures!!!

































I honestly cannot BELIEVE how amazing music and gaming sounds now







. Also, I can't believe how HORRIBLE 128k mp3's sound now. I knew they were bad, but this is ridiculous. I thought my ears were going to bleed while playing my E. 1999 Eternal CD (Bone Thugs & Harmony) that's in 128k. I had to download a flac copy







.


----------



## gorb

i wouldn't trust that folding leg table dude


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


i wouldn't trust that folding leg table dude


It's been holding up fine so far. It's just a temporary solution. Nothing is leaning TOO bad on it as is







.


----------



## zelix

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It's been holding up fine so far. It's just a temporary solution. Nothing is leaning TOO bad on it as is







.


noice speakers, but learn to focus goddamnit.


----------



## Interpolation

Please sign me up. I'm currently using a 600 watt Yamaha YHT-280 digital home theater system.

Here's the link to make your life easier jarble: http://www.yamaha.ca/av/Hometheatre/YHT280B.jsp

new link: http://usa.yamaha.com/products/audio-visual/hometheater-systems/home-theater-package/yht-280_black/?mode=model


----------



## ericld

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Here's an updated shot of my speakers, now installed







. Please ignore the mess, since I'm forced to keep my rig in the garage for now. Once I move, things will be VERY cleaned up.

And I am absolutely LOVING these speakers







. They sound SOOO clean, just take a look at their frequency graph







. Only thing I have done with my EQ, is I have the 60Hz boosted +2dB, mids are SLIGHTLY lowered (a few are at 0dB, a few are at -2dB), and my treble is boosted +2dB @ 16kHz. Other than that, I play them 100% level.

I blew my stupid Logitech Clearchat's left channel though while testing these bad boys







. Good thing I've got some real headphones on their way to me from the egg







.

On to the pictures!!!

































I honestly cannot BELIEVE how amazing music and gaming sounds now







. Also, I can't believe how HORRIBLE 128k mp3's sound now. I knew they were bad, but this is ridiculous. I thought my ears were going to bleed while playing my E. 1999 Eternal CD (Bone Thugs & Harmony) that's in 128k. I had to download a flac copy







.


Nice speakers. I bet all that dust is murder on you system and components. I would find an old pillow case to cover them until you move. As for the crappy sounding MP3s, thats what I like about Sonar's music processor (ASUS PMP). I can copy everything over into 320kbs.







Still just learning the Abelton Live Studio.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ericld*


Nice speakers. I bet all that dust is murder on you system and components. I would find an old pillow case to cover them until you move. As for the crappy sounding MP3s, thats what I like about Sonar's music processor (ASUS PMP). I can copy everything over into 320kbs.







Still just learning the Abelton Live Studio.


Yeah, the dust isn't doing it any favors. I try to clean all the dust and stuff about once a week. I've been putting it off this week though, been sick with the flu. It's not that bad as long as I keep up with the air compressor







. It only looks bad right now because it's been over a week since I dusted it.


----------



## gorb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ericld*


As for the crappy sounding MP3s, thats what I like about Sonar's music processor (ASUS PMP). I can copy everything over into 320kbs.


----------



## ericld

Be careful using an air compressor, it usually has moisture and oil in the line while you are blowing things off. Hate to see you ruin those cones and the foam. Just take a shop vac, put the hose on the exhaust end, they even make tips for that too. Thats what I use to clean my stuff. A cone tip for blowing it out, and micro tips for vacuuming. As for the ASUS PMP, it allows me to re-sample my lower quality music to a higher quality. Most dont like it because it only allows for WMA and MP3, not AAC. Since I dont use iTunes it works for me.

Edit, I do get some background noise occasionally. I am kind of new at this, but its interesting to learn new things. The Cakewalk software is neat. I was actually thinking of taking some of the tracks and play with them some to see what happens. Maybe wash them up a bit.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ericld*


As for the crappy sounding MP3s, thats what I like about Sonar's music processor (ASUS PMP). I can copy everything over into 320kbs.







Still just learning the Abelton Live Studio.


umm that doesn't do anything other then converting formats. i can record some mp3's at 96kbs and convert it to 320kbs mp3's and wont change the sound quality because it came from a 96kbs source and you can't get the music quality back that wasn't there in the first place.


Quote:



Even more disappointing is the Asus PMP software. It's designed to use the card's unique analog loopback capability to let you (legally, Asus claims) re-record your DRM-protected music in unprotected WMA or MP3 formats, so you can use them on a wider variety of players (while also optionally adding Dolby Headphone or Virtual Speaker effects to the music). However, it only converts WMA and MP3 tunes, not the AAC songs sold on iTunes-which is what the majority of users would want it to convert. It also offers few destination format options: three WMA constant-bit-rate settings, and, with an MP3 converter you must download yourself, three MP3 constant-bit-rate options. And if you convert your entire music directory, you'll find all your songs dumped into a single folder. With better recording options, including more variable bit-rate settings, and the ability to maintain folder structure, this program could sell Xonar D2X cards. As it stands, it's mostly frustrating in its limitations.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


umm that doesn't do anything other then converting formats. i can record some mp3's at 96kbs and convert it to 320kbs mp3's and wont change the sound quality because it came from a 96kbs source and you can't get the music quality back that wasn't there in the first place.


I'm glad you caught that. Also, transcoding mp3 up from a low quality source can actually HURT the sound quality.

You may be using 320kbps, but its the sound quality of your source or worse.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


i wouldn't trust that folding leg table dude


They've been making tables just like that one for a long time. They're reasonably sturdy, just so long as you're not sitting on them. I'd use a table like that if I had to.


----------



## gorb

I know - I used to use one, and they are also only rated for a certain weight. I use a different folding leg table as a desk now and I really don't like it...and it's a lot sturdier than that one


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gorb* 
I know - I used to use one, and they are also only rated for a certain weight. I use a different folding leg table as a desk now and I really don't like it...and it's a lot sturdier than that one









I don't like mine either







. But unless you're buying me a new desk, then I don't see why it matters. It's either I use this folding table, or my rig gets disconnected. Tough choice.....


----------



## Kluit

Could you add me?

Bowers & Wilkins CM9


----------



## ericld

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Kluit* 
Could you add me?

Bowers & Wilkins CM9

Wow, very nice speakers. A brick wall, tile floor, patio windows, I bet that is an active room. Got any full room pics.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Some of you guys are slobs


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED* 
Some of you guys are slobs

I sure hope that comment wasn't pointed at me







. I stated in the post that I am stuck having my rig in the garage, at my parent's house. I have no control over the mess that is out here, since its not mine. My particular area is always tidy.


----------



## gorb

well i'd give you my desk/table (300 lb weight limit) if i had something to replace it with...and if you lived a little closer


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
I sure hope that comment wasn't pointed at me







. I stated in the post that I am stuck having my rig in the garage, at my parent's house. I have no control over the mess that is out here, since its not mine. My particular area is always tidy.

Ahh ok then


----------



## Kluit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericld* 
Wow, very nice speakers. A brick wall, tile floor, patio windows, I bet that is an active room. Got any full room pics.

The included pics should give you an impression. The black big monsters are the
old speakers I replaced, Jamo Concert VII's. The equipment in the pic is NAD
C540 CD Player, NAD C440 Tuner and the amp is the NAD 317.

When I sit down to listen to some music, some stuff is moved out of the way.
The floor is marble.


----------



## ericld

Quote:

*From Kluit:*
The included pics should give you an impression. The black big monsters are the
old speakers I replaced, Jamo Concert VII's. The equipment in the pic is NAD
C540 CD Player, NAD C440 Tuner and the amp is the NAD 317.
Nice and clean modern look. It still seems rather "active", sound wise. Have you ever thought of getting some high end acoustic boards. Maybe even just some for the ceiling.
Why the LG mixed in with the NADs and not one of these. Seems a little out of place with a LG on your NAD's. Sorry, I had too







squeeze that in. It is a nice pad though.


----------



## gorb

yeah, i dont know much about treatment, but i would definitely agree that that room needs some.


----------



## Kluit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ericld* 
Nice and clean modern look. It still seems rather "active", sound wise. Have you ever thought of getting some high end acoustic boards. Maybe even just some for the ceiling.
Why the LG mixed in with the NADs and not one of these. Seems a little out of place with a LG on your NAD's. Sorry, I had too







squeeze that in. It is a nice pad though.

The LG doesn't belong to me, it belongs to my female counterpart









It gets a bit "loud" and chaotic at times when I'm playing something yes.

I've been wanting to look into changing the room, or possibly empty one of the
large upstairs bedrooms and create a specific audio room. It's most likely going
to be the later, also because of that same female counterpart


----------



## shamslapchopwow

I would like to join the club







. I apologize for the picture quality all I have at the moment is my cell phone camera.

Running from a M-Audio FastTrak Pro to an all analog Marantz 2250B Reciever to 4 KLH Model 17's.



Receiver


Model 17's


----------



## computeruler

Nice receiver. I've always kinda wanted a nice vintage marantz receiver.


----------



## shamslapchopwow

Quote:


Originally Posted by *computeruler* 
Nice receiver. I've always kinda wanted a nice vintage marantz receiver.

I wish I had my fathers setup: 70's Phase linear 200 watt amp with a Phase linear preamp powering 2 KLH Model 5's and 2 KLH Model 6's.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *shamslapchopwow* 
I wish I had my fathers setup: 70's Phase linear 200 watt amp with a Phase linear preamp powering 2 KLH Model 5's and 2 KLH Model 6's.



You Tube


----------



## ACharmingQuark

Saying hello to all and introducing myself - I am a longtime audiophile (probably longer than nearly of you have been alive







)

My computer speakers are the following ...

M-Audio Studiophile BX5a Satellites
and
M-Audio Studiophile Bx10s Subwoofer

Sound card is a Creative Labs Soundblaster Titanium X-Fi. A few people I have talked to have encouraged me to 'upgrade' but so far the sound seems pretty good and I am used to listening to my traditional stereo with Magnepan Magenplanar SMGa speakers (old school but good school - wonderful open highs and good well-positioned midrange - a bit limited in the bass area, but I prefer tightness to 'wake up the whales' sort of low frequency sound.)









But I am "all ears" when it comes to advice as well as music. If there are cards out there that would do the M-Audio speakers more justice, I'm listening! For example what do OCNers think of the Asus Xonar Essence STX? I have been reading some good reviews of it.

Enjoying OCN quite a lot - it has a good community with competent posters.

ACQ


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *ACharmingQuark* 
Saying hello to all and introducing myself - I am a longtime audiophile (probably longer than nearly of you have been alive







)

My computer speakers are the following ...

M-Audio Studiophile BX5a Satellites
and
M-Audio Studiophile Bx10s Subwoofer

Sound card is a Creative Labs Soundblaster Titanium X-Fi. A few people I have talked to have encouraged me to 'upgrade' but so far the sound seems pretty good and I am used to listening to my traditional stereo with Magnepan Magenplanar SMGa speakers (old school but good school - wonderful open highs and good well-positioned midrange - a bit limited in the bass area, but I prefer tightness to 'wake up the whales' sort of low frequency sound.)









But I am "all ears" when it comes to advice as well as music. If there are cards out there that would do the M-Audio speakers more justice, I'm listening! For example what do OCNers think of the Asus Xonar Essence STX? I have been reading some good reviews of it.

Enjoying OCN quite a lot - it has a good community with competent posters.

ACQ

I'd suggest you look into an external DAC instead of the STX. I've read that DAC's are better for the price. When I was going through the same decision, I remember reading that some of the better DAC's beat the STX and were much cheaper than it.

It's kind of funny, I made my decision to spend more to get a good DAC, and many months later I'm still using onboard







. I'm planning on building a gamma 2, but I haven't found the time yet







.


----------



## nowcontrol

I have my pc hooked up to my Hi-Fi which has "Bose Acoustimass 5 Series III" speaker system and an extra 12inch custom sub running from a very hefty "Yamaha AX-592" amp....my setup also includes Yamaha twin tape deck 'n' tuner and a Pioneer CDJ system that sits neatly in a aluminium coffin...

I have had this setup for just over 12 years.


----------



## drjoey1500

I don't remember if this was answered before...is car audio allowed?

I actually don't have any car speakers to add...yet. I just scored a barely used alpine 9887 on ebay for ~$220 shipped...and...I think I'm in love







. For the first few days it was installed I couldn't wait to drive somewhere. It sounds soo good, even with my pioneer coax fronts and stock rear speakers. They had a horrible mid peak. After a quick eq it's now a lot better. But besides that, it sounds so much better. So much better SQ, more detail than I thought my speakers could put out. Honestly, I was just buying it because I know I'm going to need an active xover and p-eq. I never knew I'd get so much satisfaction out of a head unit.


----------



## gorb

my speakers have changed a little bit

computer -> energy rc-10 & orb audio super eight
consoles -> av123 elt525m & jbl venue sub12

trying to offload some of this crap on craigslist and upgrade though :/


----------



## SlyFox

Gorb, what are you thinking of upgrading too?

I'm kinda in the same boat right now, I'm running the ELT525M's and want to upgrade. Unsure if I want to upgrade my source, as I'm running a Sony STR-DN1000, or the speakers. Kinda leaning towards speakers.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SlyFox* 
Gorb, what are you thinking of upgrading too?

I'm kinda in the same boat right now, I'm running the ELT525M's and want to upgrade. Unsure if I want to upgrade my source, as I'm running a Sony STR-DN1000, or the speakers. Kinda leaning towards speakers.

A better amp would be good for your speakers, they like power.

Before upgrading speakers consider Ninja crossovers, if you like the overall sound signature but want better that would be the way to go.


----------



## gorb

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SlyFox* 
Gorb, what are you thinking of upgrading too?

I'm kinda in the same boat right now, I'm running the ELT525M's and want to upgrade. Unsure if I want to upgrade my source, as I'm running a Sony STR-DN1000, or the speakers. Kinda leaning towards speakers.

I'm not sure. I'm planning on sticking with 2.1 for now because all this is still in the bedroom, and because it's just a bedroom system it might not even be worth it to upgrade right now. I really want some new subs though.


----------



## SlyFox

Quote:


Originally Posted by *soloz2* 
A better amp would be good for your speakers, they like power.

Before upgrading speakers consider Ninja crossovers, if you like the overall sound signature but want better that would be the way to go.

Thanks for chiming in, I've been meaning to get your opinion. Really my speakers are ideal for the space they've been given, thats why I was having a hard time chosing speakers.

I'll probably be upgrading to the Onkyo TX-NR807 in the next month or two then.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


Originally Posted by *SlyFox* 
Thanks for chiming in, I've been meaning to get your opinion. Really my speakers are ideal for the space they've been given, thats why I was having a hard time chosing speakers.

I'll probably be upgrading to the Onkyo TX-NR807 in the next month or two then.









Consider an integrated if you only have a 2 channel setup or look into adding a power amp to your current receiver if it has pre-outs


----------



## SlyFox

My current amp doesn't have pre-outs otherwise I would've gone the route. Integrated won't work either as I'm I'd need a ht receiver to hook my xbox, tv, dvd, etc to it.

But thanks for the great advice, much appreciated.


----------



## theCanadian

I'm looking to update my Philips AD0160 T8 Mylar Dome Tweeter Good read, for the laughs. It only extends up to 17kHz at best right now. I was looking at this tweet.

My only concern is that it only handles 12w RMS. Other tweets in it's class handle about 20w or more, so I don't know if 12w is skimp or not.

So I'm in the market for a tweet with these requirements:

Roughly ~3.5" minimum mounting diameter
Maximum of 2.75" speaker diameter
Minimum usable frequency of 4.5KHz-20KHz
A Frequency Response that in no way resembles any prominent mountain feature (tolerance of 3dB throughout the frequency response)
A max of $60 per tweet, preferably cheaper.
A usable power handling (these are going into a 1.4 ft^3 cabinet with 12" woofers and 6.5" midwoofers)
8 ohms

Edit:
Also, I'm considering porting said cabinets, but since the difference is going to be minor at best (see chart) and I don't know a damn thing about port design beyond the dimensions this program gives me, I was hoping to get some tips.

In regards to the chart, anyone know what the Ql=7 means?


----------



## theCanadian

As always, it seems I have to look no further than parts-express. The Dayton DC28F only violates one spec on my list, and a minor violation at that. $10 a pop. Now I'm going to try, and fail, to save myself $20 for the next month before finally purchasing these.


----------



## coreyL

holy crap i didnt know there was a speaker club! i seriously doubt i will make the cut. my speaker system is ghetto as all hell and i have had people flame me for posting pics of them lol.




























my sound setup is:

NAD T751 receiver i paid $200 for

crap kenwood bookshelves for left/right speakers soon to be some home made enclosure with decent tweeters and polk 6.5 inch drivers then my kenwood will be rears, i will later then get some klipsch WF34 speakers for left/right channel and make those polk bookshelves imma make my rears. i paid $25 for them

gallo nucleus center speaker-free

dual 12" 400 watt RMS rockford fosgate punch subs in a pro bend bandpass box- also free

soundstream class a 10.2 amp - also free. it is powered by a 70's power supply with 14.7 volts and 25 amps out of 80 possible amps the amp can power up to, so not even 400 watts is going in these subs sadly. then again that would be way too much power for my home.

i paid $225 total and the system is ghetto as hell. i do not expect to qualify for the speaker club until i get a proper sub and build my polk bookshelves. if you docked points for my amp i'd be pissed. this soundstream has some of the cleanest bass i ever heard. the rockford fosgate drivers are garbage i know that, if i get flamed ONE MORE TIME for having them, imma be mad









despite the garbage kenwood bookshelves and rockford fosgate drivers, do i make the cut? you might think my bass sounds muddy, but if you listened to some chili peppers songs, some jack johnson and other clean bass like audioslave and others, you'd change your mind. it sounds amazingly clean for such garbage drivers, but i WILL ADMIT...these rockford fosgate drivers are UTTER GARBAGE quality compared to the amp, my receiver and my gallo speaker. no moar flaming me about them please.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
I'm looking to update my Philips AD0160 T8 Mylar Dome Tweeter Good read, for the laughs. It only extends up to 17kHz at best right now. I was looking at this tweet.

My only concern is that it only handles 12w RMS. Other tweets in it's class handle about 20w or more, so I don't know if 12w is skimp or not.

So I'm in the market for a tweet with these requirements:

Roughly ~3.5" minimum mounting diameter
Maximum of 2.75" speaker diameter
Minimum usable frequency of 4.5KHz-20KHz
A Frequency Response that in no way resembles any prominent mountain feature (tolerance of 3dB throughout the frequency response)
A max of $60 per tweet, preferably cheaper.
A usable power handling (these are going into a 1.4 ft^3 cabinet with 12" woofers and 6.5" midwoofers)
8 ohms

Edit:
Also, I'm considering porting said cabinets, but since the difference is going to be minor at best (see chart) and I don't know a damn thing about port design beyond the dimensions this program gives me, I was hoping to get some tips.

In regards to the chart, anyone know what the Ql=7 means?










Enjoy.

*edit* I don't know what speakers you have, but don't port them. The sealed graph looks better, not to mentioned, if they were designed to be sealed they probably won't sound as good ported. They don't extend very far, do you have a sub with them?


----------



## Domino

I would like to get these: Polk Audio RM6750 + Pioneer VSX-520

But they seem like small speakers and I'm on a tight budget. What you guys think? Worthy for the speaker club?









Sweet audio setups here. I slabbed an old pioneer 2.0 cdplayer to the pc for the time being and gave it a nice equilizer setting. The cables all over the place is messy....but just plane awesome. xD


----------



## jarble

member list has been updated


----------



## gorb

i guess i'll update the pictures i've got too:

















it's probably dumb to have two 2.1 setups in the same room but whatever lol

i'll probably move those elt525s in and move the subwoofer to the outside as well but im lazy


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
member list has been updated


i dont even get how the hell i am in the member list, lol. my speaker setup is garbage compared to most of the members here.


----------



## SlyFox

Really nice setup gorb!! Did you make those stand the ELT 525M are sitting on? Or did you buy them?


----------



## gorb

thanks. those are sanus bf-24b stands. i got them from amazon. they're currently $30 shipped







they also have the 31" versions available (bf-31b) for $33 shipped. I think they're great for the money.


----------



## A-Dub

Here's my setup:









Madisound DIY speaker kit powered by an insignia home theater receiver and my DIY sub with a Dayton 8" driver and plate amp. There's some Sennheiser 485's in the pic as well


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Shweet


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *A-Dub* 
Here's my setup:









Madisound DIY speaker kit powered by an insignia home theater receiver and my DIY sub with a Dayton 8" driver and plate amp. There's some Sennheiser 485's in the pic as well










insignia? really? makes me think of pyle audio lol.


----------



## A-Dub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
insignia? really? makes me think of pyle audio lol.

Insignia is just Best Buy's house brand. Not a high end receiver for sure, but no where close to being the junk that Pyle is. Insignia products are just rebranded Samsung, LG, etc.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...php?p=18157571

Quote:

The Insignia AVRs are designed by Inkel Corporation in Seoul, Korea, and assembled by Inkel-Languan Electronics Co.,Ltd. in Shenzhen, China...Inkel does build CE products for the Sherwood, Marantz, Pioneer, Yamaha, NAD, Denon, Harman/Kardon and Onkyo brands...


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:

An audiophile, from Latin audio "I hear" and Greek philos "loving," is a hobbyist who seeks high-quality audio reproduction via the use of non-mass-produced high-end audio electronics.


----------



## Liighthead

add me. slowly adding speakers..
but my amp is holding me back atm.
in each mid box theirs a 6.5" response precision cs2329 with a 8" generic woofer as midbass

sorry not sure name of the subs. but their pioneer 12" and a pioneer 10"
( 12s on the left )


----------



## Bodycount

Dbl post


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 








add me. slowly adding speakers..
but my amp is holding me back atm.
in each mid box theirs a 6.5" response precision cs2329 with a 8" generic woofer as midbass

sorry not sure name of the subs. but their pioneer 12" and a pioneer 10"
( 12s on the left )

See above post/quote









Wth







Ok above your post if you will.
This thread wasn't meant for pioneer,sony,audiovox,craig,insignia,magnavox etc..


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
See above post/quote









Wth







Ok above your post if you will.
This thread wasn't meant for pioneer,sony,audiovox,craig,insignia,magnavox etc..

Umm what??

Quote:


Originally Posted by *The First Post here*
we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. *As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club*. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters.

Last time I checked, Pioneer, Sony, Audiovox, and the rest are NOT considered PC speakers. Now the only one on that list that is worth a darn is Pioneer, they make some okay budget speakers, and some killer vintage speakers







.

Go re-read the first post.

Sent from my keyboard using typetalk.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


See above post/quote









Wth







Ok above your post if you will.
This thread wasn't meant for pioneer,sony,audiovox,craig,insignia,magnavox etc..


thought it was like prebuilt setups?
like the z2300s/z5500s....

theiers 2 differnt amps.. mid boxes did just have the 8" in them. and didnt have a amp..

the subs i brought sepperate out of a box. ( woot $25 each )

............................ ?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


thought it was like prebuilt setups?
like the z2300s/z5500s....

theiers 2 differnt amps.. mid boxes did just have the 8" in them. and didnt have a amp..

the subs i brought sepperate out of a box. ( woot $25 each )

............................ ?


PM jarble, and link him to your post. Ask him if you can be added to the list







. I personally see no reason, those speakers look very nice. And there's nothing at all wrong with Pioneer subs. They're not the best, but they sure do beat the Logitech computers subs







.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Umm what??

Last time I checked, Pioneer, Sony, Audiovox, and the rest are NOT considered PC speakers. Now the only one on that list that is worth a darn is Pioneer, they make some okay budget speakers, and some killer vintage speakers







.

Go re-read the first post.

Sent from my keyboard using typetalk.



Ummm...
OK 1st LOL! I don't care how you sent the post.

Last time i checked this wasn't all about PC speakers.









Now go back and re-read the users set ups.
Pc's can be set up to home audio surround systems.
At the risk of sound/acting like a ass my PC audio system cost more then your car WITH system.

Am i missing something?
Please correct me if i am










Edit:

Then whats the point?

Hey i got some KLH here can i join?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Ummm...
OK 1st LOL! I don't care how you sent the post.

Last time i checked this wasn't all about PC speakers.









Now go back and re-read the users set ups.
Pc's can be set up to home audio surround systems.
At the risk of sound/acting like a ass my PC audio system cost more then your car WITH system.

Am i missing something?
Please correct me if i am











So because of the fact that you've spent more for home audio, than I have spent on a car...that gets me from A to B, AND it has bumps in it...means you are now superior to me?

Last time I checked, this thread was about speakers. Obviously, we don't want the "garbage" PC speakers included. But there's a LOT of home theater in a box setups on the roster, there's my Vintage Pioneer speakers (which you claim are garbage and not worthy), and a ton of other members that have "lesser" speakers.

I'm not trying to sound like an ass here either...but go stroke your e-peen elsewhere. I see absolutely NOTHING wrong with Liighthead's setup, and its actually considerably better than I'd say 90% of the forum's audio (not just this speaker club).

EDIT:
Also, please note that "PC Speakers" are NOT allowed here. Liighthead is not using PC speakers.

Sent from my keyboard using typetalk.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


PM jarble, and link him to your post. Ask him if you can be added to the list







. I personally see no reason, those speakers look very nice. And there's nothing at all wrong with Pioneer subs. They're not the best, but they sure do beat the Logitech computers subs







.










thanks. 
all up cost me uhhhhh $65AU for the mids. and $50 for the subs.







boxes were free







( old desk for the 10" ) and a old soild drawer frame + few bits of wood from a old desk









the mids i got the box + 8" for $2 each ( from tip ) and the 6.5"s were a impluse buy lol. was going to get the 4" but was nother $10 for 6.5"

anyways haha thanks







( both amps were free. one powering the mids from my dad(5.1 with a 4" sub not connected 7w each voice channel ). and one powering the sub's ( technics SU-Z400







290watt )

sounds pretty good anyways... lol sorry for rant ^.^ but yeah lol 
was thinking about getting a car amp to power the subs.. but how can i power it?







in my room

EDIT: WTH happened to this thread? flame much lol....


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*









thanks. 
all up cost me uhhhhh $65AU for the mids. and $50 for the subs.







boxes were free







( old desk for the 10" ) and a old soild drawer frame + few bits of wood from a old desk









the mids i got the box + 8" for $2 each ( from tip ) and the 6.5"s were a impluse buy lol. was going to get the 4" but was nother $10 for 6.5"

anyways haha thanks







( both amps were free. one powering the mids from my dad(5.1 with a 4" sub not connected 7w each voice channel ). and one powering the sub's ( technics SU-Z400







290watt )

sounds pretty good anyways... lol sorry for rant ^.^ but yeah lol 
was thinking about getting a car amp to power the subs.. but how can i power it?







in my room


Don't do a car amp. Get a good plate amp for the better sub out of the two, and build it a proper enclosure. Sell the other one to fund it







.

Sent from my keyboard using typetalk.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


So because of the fact that you've spent more for home audio, than I have spent on a car...that gets me from A to B, AND it has bumps in it...means you are now superior to me?

Last time I checked, this thread was about speakers. Obviously, we don't want the "garbage" PC speakers included. But there's a LOT of home theater in a box setups on the roster, there's my Vintage Pioneer speakers (which you claim are garbage and not worthy), and a ton of other members that have "lesser" speakers.

I'm not trying to sound like an ass here either...but go stroke your e-peen elsewhere. I see absolutely NOTHING wrong with Liighthead's setup, and its actually considerably better than I'd say 90% of the forum's audio (not just this speaker club).

EDIT:
Also, please note that "PC Speakers" are NOT allowed here. Liighthead is not using PC speakers.

Sent from my keyboard using typetalk.


Sorry man you missed the point there.

I guess pm jarble. I seen this happen before and its not to be harse to anyone.

I did not say your stuff was garbage or that im better than you


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Sorry man you missed the point there.

I guess pm jarble. I seen this happen before and its not to be harse to anyone.

I did not say your stuff was garbage or that im better than you


Maybe I did miss the point?







I'm honestly not sure what the point was. I thought you were bashing on Liighthead's setup (even if it wasn't intended, or in a mean way). I was only defending his setup, since it is clearly allowed as per the first post. It's actually a very nice budget setup, although it could use proper enclosures and powering to everything. He probably needs crossovers too....but its all a good start though.

And I wasn't trying to be mean or rude to you at all. I was merely trying to make my point that his setup should be allowed, as per the first post in the thread.

Sent from my keyboard using typetalk.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Don't do a car amp. Get a good plate amp for the better sub out of the two, and build it a proper enclosure. Sell the other one to fund it








.


yeah but for a 200w plate amp. their about $230 :/ a 4 channel 200w car amp. is $70 ( 2nd hand though ) guess ill have 2 save up lol

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


since it is clearly allowed as per the first post. It's actually a very nice budget setup, although it could use proper enclosures and powering to everything. He probably needs crossovers too....but its all a good start though.


thanks, yeah very budget setup lol. never had a real job untill uhhh last week.

and pretty noob with speaker setups ect..

save up for plate amp + reciver? plate amp for subs.. and reciver for mids ect..

reciver only be something like this  but yeah lol have to save up a bit..

ill make a thread about it when i get a bit of money lol







 or theirs a 2.1 ( powered bass channel ) but only 200watts.. *shrug* work out when get some $$$$$$


----------



## Bodycount

OK, I thought this through a little bit better.

Lighthead i mean you no offence trust me









Pioneerisloud, Man don't get me wrong i run Pioneer&Alpine in my truck but months and months ago there was clarification from jarble and i was under the impression that this club was not really meant for people to go to best buy,Costco or whatever IDK









Now with the argument you started. Are these vintage Pioneers and rare?
(klipsch cornwalls come to mind. It's a way differant class but.) I have not visited this thread in a while maybe things have changed. Now i think i'll pay more attention to this thread.

But Pioneer i can't help to think you may be a little bias. This is NOT car audio. I may be wrong i'm only human. In all honesty i'm starting for the first time to see no point to the thread if i can hook up some KLH to a optimus receiver and say yay! I'm trying really hard to choose my words carefully here ya know. In serious threads im serious









Body


----------



## Bodycount

Jarble? I'm


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


Jarble? I'm

















Jarble is an OCN member, he's the one who keeps the Speaker Club list up to date


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
Jarble? I'm
















To set the record straight the only rigs that I have banned from the club are "pc" speakers. My thinking behind allowing custom or even "pc" mixers is that that user has seen that their audio system could be more and are working in that direction.









edit

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Jarble is an OCN member, he's the one who keeps the Speaker Club list up to date









try's and is usually late


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Jarble is an OCN member, he's the one who keeps the Speaker Club list up to date









Yes, i'm very aware of that.
He also takes care of this thread.


----------



## jarble

hey guys I have to get off to work but if any of you guys still have questions feel free to pm me


----------



## Mongol

Well, when I do want the surround cranked, I run my 460GTX's HDMI out to my Onkyo SR-605. Paradigm Phantom V3 tower fronts, Phantom V3 bookshelf surrounds, KEF Center and KEF C4 subwoofer. I'm also using my onkyo fronts (it was an Onkyo HTIB) as rear surrounds for 7.1. Video outputs to my Sony 40" lcd.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 
To set the record straight the only rigs that I have banned from the club are "pc" speakers. My thinking behind allowing custom or even "pc" mixers is that that user has seen that their audio system could be more and are working in that direction.









edit

try's and is usually late









So if i understand you correctly this club has nothing to do with Audiophile equipment?
and is *NOT* specified for Audiophiles


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *********** 
Well, when I do want the surround cranked, I run my 460GTX's HDMI out to my Onkyo SR-605. Paradigm Phantom V3 tower fronts, Phantom V3 bookshelf surrounds, KEF Center and KEF C4 subwoofer. I'm also using my onkyo fronts (it was an Onkyo HTIB) as rear surrounds for 7.1. Video outputs to my Sony 40" lcd.










will work on this when I get back

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
So if i understand you correctly this club has nothing to do with Audiophile equipment?
Or is specified for Audiophiles

your are walking into a mine field with that question. Audiophile is not something that you can say oh he is or he is not just because one person has more cash than someone else. Your rig does not define your love for audio.


----------



## Bodycount

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 


your are walking into a mine field with that question. Audiophile is not something that you can say oh he is or he is not just because one person has more cash than someone else. Your rig does not define your love for audio.




I'm sorry. I had the wrong impression of this thread as it did change several times.

My impression had nothing to do with money. I had no idea i was walking into a mine field but i grew out of the whole boom,boom,boom thing long ago
With all due respect you can remove me please.
You might want to remove a tag.

Respectfully
Body


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
See above post/quote









Wth








Ok above your post if you will.
This thread wasn't meant for pioneer,sony,audiovox,craig,insignia,magnavox etc..










oh.

really?

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Liighthead* 







thanks.
all up cost me uhhhhh $65AU for the mids. and $50 for the subs.







boxes were free







( old desk for the 10" ) and a old soild drawer frame + few bits of wood from a old desk









the mids i got the box + 8" for $2 each ( from tip ) and the 6.5"s were a impluse buy lol. was going to get the 4" but was nother $10 for 6.5"

anyways haha thanks







( both amps were free. one powering the mids from my dad(5.1 with a 4" sub not connected 7w each voice channel ). and one powering the sub's ( technics SU-Z400







290watt )

sounds pretty good anyways... lol sorry for rant ^.^ but yeah lol
was thinking about getting a car amp to power the subs.. but how can i power it?







in my room

EDIT: WTH happened to this thread? flame much lol....











this is how you do it. basically you need a very solid power supply type device to properly invert the wall power into around 12v dc into the car amp which then powers the speakers. it been brought to my attentiont hat my soundsrtream class a 10.2 isnt even a sub amp.. or even 1000 watts unless its 1/2 an ohm, thx pioneerisloud









anyway i'd agree with him. do NOT go out of your way to use car subs in your house, it generally will not sound anywhere near as good as a good house sub in a home built good box. i'd take a rackmount amp any day over a plate amp but thats just me, do what you please. i got all that equipment for free and don't even drive yet so i figured i'd use it to make a home theater system.


----------



## A-Dub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *jarble* 

your are walking into a mine field with that question. Audiophile is not something that you can say oh he is or he is not just because one person has more cash than someone else. Your rig does not define your love for audio.

Well said jarble, Body's post was directed at lighthead as well as myself. I don't have endless money to throw at this hobby. My Insignia receiver was the best one for the price (50% off







) and certainly gets the job done. Should that take away from the countless hours I spent building my speakers? Of course not.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Bodycount* 
I'm sorry. I had the wrong impression of this thread as it did change several times.

My impression had nothing to do with money. I had no idea i was walking into a mine field but i grew out of the whole boom,boom,boom thing long ago
With all due respect you can remove me please.
You might want to remove a tag.

Respectfully
Body

I apologize if I offended you with my response as it was a bit rushed. I will remove you from the list as per your request.









Quote:


Originally Posted by *A-Dub* 
Well said jarble, Body's post was directed at lighthead as well as myself. I don't have endless money to throw at this hobby. My Insignia receiver was the best one for the price (50% off







) and certainly gets the job done. Should that take away from the countless hours I spent building my speakers? Of course not.

you put a lot of time in to that setup and you built what you wanted enjoy it









ps patched up a few more of the member links the end is nigh


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bodycount*


See above post/quote









Wth







Ok above your post if you will.
This thread wasn't meant for pioneer,sony,audiovox,craig,insignia,magnavox etc..


Highhorse much? You can rock a Bose system if you like. We'll laugh at you, but we'll still let you in the club. The only requirement is that you have non-pc speakers.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


You can rock a Bose system if you like. We'll laugh at you, but we'll still let you in the club.


I have some Bose Music Monitor 301's from the 80's in my lounge set-up, you wouldn't be laughing if you heard how much better they are than the present day Bose stuff









Audiophile is such a loosely used term that it would be meaningless to restrict the club to "audiophiles only", this thread is all about discussing our gear and helping people get the best from their system whether that's a pair of $50 bookshelf speakers and a $100 amp or a $10,000 pair of floorstanders with $20,000 amps, it doesn't matter


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Highhorse much? You can rock a Bose system if you like. We'll laugh at you, but we'll still let you in the club. The only requirement is that you have non-pc speakers.



why havent i gotten crap for my system yet? its ghetto rigged as hell.


----------



## gorb

you have said that about 300 times now. nobody cares.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
why havent i gotten crap for my system yet? its ghetto rigged as hell.

Audiophile is so hard to define. Take the AD700 headphones. A highly respected set of cans. However, take a look at the FR graph. Nowhere near flat. That's because a flat FR usually sounds terrible and lifeless. It's more an art than a science.


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


why havent i gotten crap for my system yet? its ghetto rigged as hell.


The amount of people caring about your system, is inversely proportional to how ****ty it is.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FattyMcFatFatFatty*


The amount of people caring about your system, is inversely proportional to how ****ty it is.


I like this statement.


----------



## chinesekiwi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Audiophile is so hard to define. Take the AD700 headphones. A highly respected set of cans. However, take a look at the FR graph. Nowhere near flat. That's because a flat FR usually sounds terrible and lifeless. It's more an art than a science.


flat FRs cannot apply to headphones due to the influence of the pinna.


----------



## AMC

Add me please.

M-Audio AV40's.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesekiwi*


flat FRs cannot apply to headphones due to the influence of the pinna.


I know this, but I was just making a point.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


you have said that about 300 times now. nobody cares.



then stop giving these people with pioneer and bose crap. i dont wanna hear you guys give them crap when their speakers are better than mine and i dont get any crap. if you're gunna give them crap like that, then you might as well be an ******* to everyone too.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


then stop giving these people with pioneer and bose crap. i dont wanna hear you guys give them crap when their speakers are better than mine and i dont get any crap. if you're gunna give them crap like that, then you might as well be an ******* to everyone too.


You don't seem to understand. We so don't care about you that you are << bose and pioneer fanboys. We give them crap because their stuff sucks and we are much better ppl than them, you're so hopeless we don't even care...

I mean, seriously, I care so little about you I don't even care to finis

/sarcasm. As proof don't ask me what amp and sources I'm using


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


You don't seem to understand. We so don't care about you that you are << bose and *pioneer fanboys*. We give them crap because their stuff sucks and we are much better ppl than them, you're so hopeless we don't even care...

I mean, seriously, I care so little about you I don't even care to finis

/sarcasm. As proof don't ask me what amp and sources I'm using










Hey now, I'm not a fanboy







.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


You don't seem to understand. We so don't care about you that you are << bose and pioneer fanboys. We give them crap because their stuff sucks and we are much better ppl than them, you're so hopeless we don't even care...

I mean, seriously, I care so little about you I don't even care to finis

/sarcasm. As proof don't ask me what amp and sources I'm using











lawl, tell me how im a pioneer, bose or logitech fanboy pls.

NAD receiver, kenwood bookshelves, gallo center, soundstream amp powering rockford fosgate subs

about as far from fanboy as it gets considering im about to build some home made bookshelves with 6.5 inch polk drivers and some random tweeters i have laying around. that and im gunna get klipsch wf34 speakers for left/right channel.

<--- so much fanboyism, oh yeah. im working on turning my logitech x540 i bought years ago into an ipod dock speaker system. anyone know the cheapest possible 14.4v power tool battery with at least 2.4 amps? logitech says the x540 is 70 watts, yet the transformer is labeled 14.6volts and 2.4 amps. they lie almost as bad as pyle audio. logitech= computer speaker version of pyle audio imo. please tell me how [email protected] 2.4 amps which = 35 watts is equivalent to 70 watts being half of that much power?

anyway it works out good for me because i have 2 logitech z5500 drivers laying around i got out of a trash pile for free, some small speakers i got out of a plasma tv and 2 other small speakers i got out of a broken ipod dock. i plan on hooking them all up to make them surround sound. z5500 drivers = left and right channel. plasma speakers = center channel, ipod dock speakers = left/right rear channel. the x540 sub will be the bass, all in one enclosure with a recharable power tool battery capable of powering it for probably 2 hours+ of music and the original transformer from the logitech sub box will be the battery charger. i will route somehow the battery leads to both the logitech amplifier power input as well as a regulated 3.7v or so for charging an ipod if its at all possible somehow to solder an ipod cord into the sound input of a logitech x540 amplifier circuit board. i might upgrade a few capacitors later or something for fun, iono. this is something board to make somethign creative out of trash.

a few questions:

how would i solder up an ipod cord to charge it with a 14.4v power tool battery? how would i regulate it to the proper votlage?

is it possible to convert an ipod cord into analogue audio to solder on to my x540 circuit board to make it fully ipod integradable?

cheapest 14.4v 2.4a battery?

could i use solid wood with an iterior coat of asphault or something? i dont feel like using mdf and veneering something so bad sounding. im willing to MDF and veneer hifi speakers but NOT an ipod dock. so what would be the best method of making sure the wood wont resonate? im thinking of having a curved back directly behind the z5500 drivers mostly to prevent some resonation. would the asphault idea work too? if so then ill try to make a badass folding type thing go on maybe. i plan to sand, stain and finish the wood as well as ghetto rig the wired remote to the top of te device, the front speaker input will be connected to the back near the charger via a 3.5mm extension cord.

well i have been ADD as hell today and i expect fully to be bashed for my recent posts and people to ridicule me for my ideas. oh well.


----------



## Bodycount

Whoa!

Atleast i was drunk







its rare

An apology goes out to the people i didn't mean to offend but did anyway








You guys know who you are.

Anyway carry on.
I have nothing to do with this madness.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Hey now, I'm not a fanboy







.


I never said I was talking about you







.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


lawl, tell me how im a pioneer, bose or logitech fanboy pls.

NAD receiver, kenwood bookshelves, gallo center, soundstream amp powering rockford fosgate subs

about as far from fanboy as it gets considering im about to build some home made bookshelves with 6.5 inch polk drivers and some random tweeters i have laying around. that and im gunna get klipsch wf34 speakers for left/right channel.

<--- so much fanboyism, oh yeah. im working on turning my logitech x540 i bought years ago into an ipod dock speaker system. anyone know the cheapest possible 14.4v power tool battery with at least 2.4 amps? logitech says the x540 is 70 watts, yet the transformer is labeled 14.6volts and 2.4 amps. they lie almost as bad as pyle audio. logitech= computer speaker version of pyle audio imo. please tell me how [email protected] 2.4 amps which = 35 watts is equivalent to 70 watts being half of that much power?

anyway it works out good for me because i have 2 logitech z5500 drivers laying around i got out of a trash pile for free, some small speakers i got out of a plasma tv and 2 other small speakers i got out of a broken ipod dock. i plan on hooking them all up to make them surround sound. z5500 drivers = left and right channel. plasma speakers = center channel, ipod dock speakers = left/right rear channel. the x540 sub will be the bass, all in one enclosure with a recharable power tool battery capable of powering it for probably 2 hours+ of music and the original transformer from the logitech sub box will be the battery charger. i will route somehow the battery leads to both the logitech amplifier power input as well as a regulated 3.7v or so for charging an ipod if its at all possible somehow to solder an ipod cord into the sound input of a logitech x540 amplifier circuit board. i might upgrade a few capacitors later or something for fun, iono. this is something board to make somethign creative out of trash.

a few questions:

how would i solder up an ipod cord to charge it with a 14.4v power tool battery? how would i regulate it to the proper votlage?

is it possible to convert an ipod cord into analogue audio to solder on to my x540 circuit board to make it fully ipod integradable?

cheapest 14.4v 2.4a battery?

could i use solid wood with an iterior coat of asphault or something? i dont feel like using mdf and veneering something so bad sounding. im willing to MDF and veneer hifi speakers but NOT an ipod dock. so what would be the best method of making sure the wood wont resonate? im thinking of having a curved back directly behind the z5500 drivers mostly to prevent some resonation. would the asphault idea work too? if so then ill try to make a badass folding type thing go on maybe. i plan to sand, stain and finish the wood as well as ghetto rig the wired remote to the top of te device, the front speaker input will be connected to the back near the charger via a 3.5mm extension cord.

well i have been ADD as hell today and i expect fully to be bashed for my recent posts and people to ridicule me for my ideas. oh well.


I think you misunderstood. I meant the '<<' symbols as much much less than. I meant you are so much less than even the fanboys that we don't even give you the recognition of being flamed







.

Honestly, plain old pine or plywood will be fine. Just try to get 3/4" at least for something sturdy. Anything over 1/2'' thick should be better than the thin mdf junk they make the sub out of. If you're actually buying the wood, mdf is cheaper than most other wood. Just skip the veneer.

I don't bash you for your ideas. You learn by tearing stuff apart and messing with leftover junk. The first one is never pretty. If you start out with cheap stuff you have less to lose. It wouldn't be cool to accidentally stick a screwdriver through a $300 midbass







.

You sir are well on your way into DIY audio







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


I never said I was talking about you







.

I think you misunderstood. I meant the '<<' symbols as much much less than. I meant you are so much less than even the fanboys that we don't even give you the recognition of being flamed







.

Honestly, plain old pine or plywood will be fine. Just try to get 3/4" at least for something sturdy. Anything over 1/2'' thick should be better than the thin mdf junk they make the sub out of. If you're actually buying the wood, mdf is cheaper than most other wood. Just skip the veneer.

I don't bash you for your ideas. You learn by tearing stuff apart and messing with leftover junk. The first one is never pretty. If you start out with cheap stuff you have less to lose. It wouldn't be cool to accidentally stick a screwdriver through a $300 midbass







.

You sir are well on your way into DIY audio







.


One point to make here....

Speaker enclosures should be made out of MDF. 1/2" for speakers that don't have a lot of power, and 3/4-1" for subwoofers. There was one other wood type that was actually BETTER than MDF, but I forget what it was. I just know it's like $70 for a sheet.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


One point to make here....

Speaker enclosures should be made out of MDF. 1/2" for speakers that don't have a lot of power, and 3/4-1" for subwoofers. There was one other wood type that was actually BETTER than MDF, but I forget what it was. I just know it's like $70 for a sheet.


Are you referring to baltic birch? I thought mdf was better, at least that's what I read. Baltic birch definitely looks better.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


Are you referring to baltic birch? I thought mdf was better, at least that's what I read. Baltic birch definitely looks better.


It might have been birch. I'm not sure honestly. I just know it was really expensive. And whatever it was, works BETTER than MDF because it doesn't vibrate as much. Somebody on a car audio forum built his sub box out of the stuff (might have been birch??), and he only had to use 3/4", and he was pushing like 6,000w RMS to 2 18's.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


I never said I was talking about you







.

I think you misunderstood. I meant the '<<' symbols as much much less than. I meant you are so much less than even the fanboys that we don't even give you the recognition of being flamed







.

Honestly, plain old pine or plywood will be fine. Just try to get 3/4" at least for something sturdy. Anything over 1/2'' thick should be better than the thin mdf junk they make the sub out of. If you're actually buying the wood, mdf is cheaper than most other wood. Just skip the veneer.

I don't bash you for your ideas. You learn by tearing stuff apart and messing with leftover junk. The first one is never pretty. If you start out with cheap stuff you have less to lose. It wouldn't be cool to accidentally stick a screwdriver through a $300 midbass







.

You sir are well on your way into DIY audio







.


oh







my bad, thanks.

i need to learn to properly crossover and whatnot. for when i make my bookshelves.

ill make the ipod dock out of pine i guess. i figured applying some sort of rubbery paste on the inside would make it sound better by reducing the resonation, but these wont be hifi so ehh

if i actually had some money it would be so much easier to get my projects started. all i have right now is plans and ideas and drivers, and a circuit board


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


oh







my bad, thanks.

i need to learn to properly crossover and whatnot. for when i make my bookshelves.

ill make the ipod dock out of pine i guess. i figured applying some sort of rubbery paste on the inside would make it sound better by reducing the resonation, but these wont be hifi so ehh

if i actually had some money it would be so much easier to get my projects started. all i have right now is plans and ideas and drivers, and a circuit board


You should consider 1/2" MDF, whatever style finishing you want, wood glue and caulking for the edges, and polyfill the inside. Assuming you're putting speakers in it that are amplified.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You should consider 1/2" MDF, whatever style finishing you want, wood glue and caulking for the edges, and polyfill the inside. Assuming you're putting speakers in it that are amplified.


i have a 4x8 sheet of MDF im saving for the bookselves im going to build which will have some 6.5 inch old polk drivers and some mylar tweeters.

im building an ipod dock as well.i want it to look nice but i dont want to make it out of mdf then veneer it. i figure its too much work for something with 30 watts max power going through 7 little drivers total. that being said, i have seen someone make sealed speakers out of polished slate. he coated the inside of it with asphalt to make it not resonate and apparently it sounded great. i wouldnt mind trying that with pine wood myself on this ipod dock. im probably going to glue, screw, and calk the edges, have little braces glued in the corners andpolyfill = cotton stuffing basically? because i was going to do that.

on the mdf bookshelves ill put more time and effort into bracing and whatnot, the ipod dock doesnt need to be nearly as solid.


----------



## AdvanSuper

I'm getting a somewhat loud ringing/buzzing sound in my Logitech Z523 speaker. Would anyone happen to know why? It just happened out of no where when I stopped listening to music and the volume was still turned up and it still does it when it's unplugged from the sound card.

Edit: Never mind, took out the connection cleaned it and put it back in and it stopped.


----------



## TUDJ

A common cause of that is a lack of grounding or a bad cable. Is it a high pitch "ringing" or a lower tone hum?


----------



## AdvanSuper

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


A common cause of that is a lack of grounding or a bad cable. Is it a high pitch "ringing" or a lower tone hum?


I figured it out above lol.


----------



## ripster

Double panel MDF and bracing.

A Rythmik Subwoofer I built.

















My kid's PC Sound setup (I use Mackie HR824 studio monitors). I dropped a subwoofer amp and new 8" into this Mirage Xbox closeout special at Parts Express.


----------



## soloz2

looks good!


----------



## Liighthead

looks pretty nice







nice n clean well done







not sayin it was hard but easy to make little mistakes









lol anyways


----------



## soilentblue

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


One point to make here....

Speaker enclosures should be made out of MDF. 1/2" for speakers that don't have a lot of power, and 3/4-1" for subwoofers. There was one other wood type that was actually BETTER than MDF, but I forget what it was. I just know it's like $70 for a sheet.


sure the wood isn't ash? definitely better than mdf.


----------



## j0n3z3y

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soilentblue*


sure the wood isn't ash? definitely better than mdf.


Nooooo.







It's birch. The absolute, most acoustically dead wood there is. It's also a killer on tooling. Eats bits while pre-drilling like there's no tomorrow.









I built some 6 1/2" mini monitors in the mid 90's out of solid birch. I went through about 8 sharpenings with a cobalt drill bit before I was done w/ them. <3 & hate birch.

Ash looks better than MDF, but doensn't outperform it sonically. MDF is very dead....only surpassed by Baltic Birch at a large expense difference.

If you really want something dead. Check this out...an opposing modulus materials pourable & moldable, similar to concrete. That is nearly twice (iirc) as dead accoustically as Baltic Birch. I always wanted to make some of these, just never found the time.

Speaker Builder 1996 Back Issues entitled: "The Opposite Moduli Speaker Cabinet"

http://www.audioxpress.com/magsdirx/...ues/BISSBM.htm


----------



## chinesekiwi

Add my Mission 761i speakers! Love them. Responds very well to a slight EQ to correct the 'British sound'.


----------



## blur510

I would like to join.
PC (FLAC) > Digital Coax (2 channel, 24bit, 96000hz)> CA Dacmagic >Blanced XLR> Alesis M1 Active MKII


----------



## ripster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


looks pretty nice







nice n clean well done







not sayin it was hard but easy to make little mistakes









lol anyways










I have no idea what you just said.


----------



## gorb

I don't think anyone does.


----------



## Liighthead

hahahaha yeah sorry i just reread it.. i carnt understand what i said ()


----------



## Tator Tot

I think what light head was saying is that the project did not look easy, and it looks well (or professionally done) because of a lack of small imperfections that you would normally expect to see.

But it's further evidence as to why you should not post when you're that tired, drunk, or on any substance.


----------



## FearSC549

Just to let you guys know, DIY speakers is VERY EASY. However, DIY speakers with quality(both aesthetic and sound) is NOT VERY EASY.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FearSC549*


Just to let you guys know, DIY speakers is VERY EASY. However, DIY speakers with quality(both aesthetic and sound) is NOT VERY EASY.



couple questions. im in the process of my first bookshelf build. they sound like they are resonating but they are made completely of MDF. is this because it isnt completely finished and i have 2 small holes in the back of the bookshelves in which i will fix soon, or because i havent polyfilled them yet?

also whats the best way to go about making a simple crossover? i plan to make the 6.5 inch polk drivers cross over at 3000 htz to the tweeters somehow.

one more thing is, i know veneering this will be extremely hard, so im thinking ill get 1/4 inch cherry furniture grade plywood and stain/poly it. cutting the 45 degree angles will suck. i dont even know if the tablesaw at my house can do that. i might have to use a router.


----------



## theCanadian

Plywood is a poor choice. It has lots of flex (relatively).

My cabinets are made from 3/4" plywood and cheap drivers, and I managed to get away with some pretty good detail. But then again, I was rebuilding them. They hold some sentimental value. If I was building from scratch, I'd go with MDF.

_"couple questions. im in the process of my first bookshelf build. *they sound like they are resonating* but they are made completely of MDF. is this because it isnt completely finished and i have 2 small holes in the back of the bookshelves in which i will fix soon, or because i havent polyfilled them yet?"_

All speakers resonate.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *theCanadian* 
Plywood is a poor choice. It has lots of flex (relatively).

My cabinets are made from 3/4" plywood and cheap drivers, and I managed to get away with some pretty good detail. But then again, I was rebuilding them. They hold some sentimental value. If I was building from scratch, I'd go with MDF.

_"couple questions. im in the process of my first bookshelf build. *they sound like they are resonating* but they are made completely of MDF. is this because it isnt completely finished and i have 2 small holes in the back of the bookshelves in which i will fix soon, or because i havent polyfilled them yet?"_

All speakers resonate.

hmm i think its the combination of having no crossover and needing to be polyfilled in that case. the tweeters are much more effecient than the woofer and make it almost ear piercing when turned up high, the bass isnt as much as i would like. to solve this: i'm thinking i should polyfill it, make a crossover and make a porthole, yourthoughts?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
hmm i think its the combination of having no crossover and needing to be polyfilled in that case. the tweeters are much more effecient than the woofer and make it almost ear piercing when turned up high, the bass isnt as much as i would like. to solve this: i'm thinking i should polyfill it, make a crossover and make a porthole, yourthoughts?

1) A crossover is only going to cure at the crossover point. You'll need 2 crossovers, a high pass for the tweeter, and a low pass for the woofer. These can be bought at partsexpress.com in the "speaker building" section. Or you can look up the values and build one yourself from the12volt.com. High pass is easy, as its just a capacitor inline with the positive. A low pass is considerably more difficult, I'd suggest you buy those for your first build.

2) Polyfill only makes the speakers think the enclosure is bigger, and prevents vibrations of the box. With small drivers, that's not an issue. Until you get a 12" subwoofer running 1000w RMS to it, you won't need to worry with 3/4" MDF. Again, the crossovers will help, but they won't help your bass response any. You either have the box built wrong, or your drivers just suck at bass.

3) Portholes? You're essentially going to just cut holes in your enclosure? That's not a port. You would essentially be turning the speakers into free air. This is probably part of the reason already why you have such lacking bass response (you said you have holes in the back). If you're going to go ported, you need to do it CORRECTLY by using software to determine the proper lengths and widths of the ports, or you should go sealed.


----------



## theCanadian

http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t16

You'll need to look up the resonance frequency of the woofer on the manufacturer product sheet.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t16

You'll need to look up the resonance frequency of the woofer on the manufacturer product sheet.


You need more than that to do it right. You need every little spec on the woofer (I think there was 10 or 12 things to enter), plus the complete dimensions and volume of the enclosure, plus the port tune you're after, and you have to figure in port velocity as well.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You need more than that to do it right. You need every little spec on the woofer (I think there was 10 or 12 things to enter), plus the complete dimensions and volume of the enclosure, plus the port tune you're after, and you have to figure in port velocity as well.


heh, it would be nice if i rally knew for sure what model of speakers these are. looks like im going sealed for the time being. i need to get some furniture grade plywood. are you sure partsexpress has quality pre built crossovers?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


heh, it would be nice if i rally knew for sure what model of speakers these are. looks like im going sealed for the time being. i need to get some furniture grade plywood. are you sure partsexpress has quality pre built crossovers?


I am positive. Just make sure you match the impedance correctly. I've used them before on a few builds. They work very well.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I am positive. Just make sure you match the impedance correctly. I've used them before on a few builds. They work very well.


the impedance of the woofers arent even labeled. the tweeters are 6 ohms. i THINK they are polk drivers but i cant even be sure of that.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


the impedance of the woofers arent even labeled. the tweeters are 6 ohms. i THINK they are polk drivers but i cant even be sure of that.


So measure them with your multimeter. I assume you have a multimeter if you're building speakers and crossovers.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


So measure them with your multimeter. I assume you have a multimeter if you're building speakers and crossovers.


i didnt even know my multimeter could measure ohms. should i measure it while playing music is will it measure fine with nothing playing?

ive been whinging it pretty much the entire time lol. ill upload some pics of what ive got so far in a bit.


----------



## coreyL

and say hi to my puppy:



i always take a picture of her when im logging my work lol.

so basically these started off as:










i got these garbage bookshelves for free and decided to do this with them, the MDF in the bookshelves is fine for my needs so it all works out and it saved me some time gluing mdf together. so uhh, yeah. i need to peel off the contact papper from me left speaker, polyfill them, cross them over, seal them properly, get good plywood and stain and poly the plywood and i should be golden. this is my first DiY bookshelf build and i am completely whinging it so dont make too much fun of me lol.

some things i learned: take my time and dont use crap dull jigsaw blades, the 45 degree bevel for the plywood is going to SUCK. use holesaws next time because it would have saved me hours of filing and alot of grief messing up my circles with the jigsaw lol.


----------



## xxicrimsonixx

Logitech X-540


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *xxicrimsonixx* 
Logitech X-540


aparently logitech and pc speakers dont count lol,

wanna say hi to my logitech x540? im working on turning it into the worlds first portable surround sound ipod dock


----------



## FearSC549

Corey, your speaker enclosures does not have a single bracing, which explains the resonance/vibration. Add some bracing inside to decrease vibration.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
hmm i think its the combination of having no crossover and needing to be polyfilled in that case. the tweeters are much more effecient than the woofer and make it almost ear piercing when turned up high, the bass isnt as much as i would like. to solve this: i'm thinking i should polyfill it, make a crossover and make a porthole, yourthoughts?

Polyfil is cheap and can't hurt. Just buy some and stick it in there, I'd never build a speaker without at least polyfil inside. PE also has more expensive stuff that's meant for the inside of speakers, but I'd say it's not worth it for your experiment (unless the drivers are really good).

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
1) A crossover is only going to cure at the crossover point. You'll need 2 crossovers, a high pass for the tweeter, and a low pass for the woofer. These can be bought at partsexpress.com in the "speaker building" section. Or you can look up the values and build one yourself from the12volt.com. High pass is easy, as its just a capacitor inline with the positive. A low pass is considerably more difficult, I'd suggest you buy those for your first build.

2) Polyfill only makes the speakers think the enclosure is bigger, and prevents vibrations of the box. With small drivers, that's not an issue. Until you get a 12" subwoofer running 1000w RMS to it, you won't need to worry with 3/4" MDF. Again, the crossovers will help, but they won't help your bass response any. You either have the box built wrong, or your drivers just suck at bass.

3) Portholes? You're essentially going to just cut holes in your enclosure? That's not a port. You would essentially be turning the speakers into free air. This is probably part of the reason already why you have such lacking bass response (you said you have holes in the back). If you're going to go ported, you need to do it CORRECTLY by using software to determine the proper lengths and widths of the ports, or you should go sealed.

I'd agree sealed is safer. Stick to that if you don't know the specs of the woofer.

A crossover is more than just a single capacitor...that's the bare minimum since it's a pretty shallow slope (6dB per octave). Second order is a coil in parallel and a cap in series IIRC, and you keep adding components from there (in a certain configuration obviously).

I don't see how a low pass filter is any more complicated, first order is just a single inductor (coil) in series with the woofer







. Coils can be expensive though.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
heh, it would be nice if i rally knew for sure what model of speakers these are. looks like im going sealed for the time being. i need to get some furniture grade plywood. are you sure partsexpress has quality pre built crossovers?

Yes, just keep them sealed for now. You could just get those, or spend a little while with a xover calculator and buy the components yourself. Don't bother with expensive caps or massive coils right now, it's kind of a stab in the dark anyway, so there's no point in wasting money on an overkill crossover.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
So measure them with your multimeter. I assume you have a multimeter if you're building speakers and crossovers.


Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
i didnt even know my multimeter could measure ohms. should i measure it while playing music is will it measure fine with nothing playing?

ive been whinging it pretty much the entire time lol. ill upload some pics of what ive got so far in a bit.

Unplug the speaker completely. Then use the multimeter to measure across the two connections on the speaker. Switch it to one of the lower settings. The multimeter only measures DC resistance (Re). That will give you an idea of the impedance, but most likely it will be below it. For example if it measures 7.32ohms it's most likely an 8 ohm driver.

Just a side note, when you set the multimeter to the ohmmeter section, it sends out a small current through the lead and then measures resistance by how much current/voltage is actually received at the other lead. So if you touch it to a live wire or speaker when using the ohmmeter you could damage it.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FearSC549* 
Corey, your speaker enclosures does not have a single bracing, which explains the resonance/vibration. Add some bracing inside to decrease vibration.

Honestly, you don't need that unless the enclosures are extremely poorly built. In that case I'd tell you to take them apart and cut the pieces over again anyway.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
couple questions. im in the process of my first bookshelf build. they sound like they are resonating but they are made completely of MDF. is this because it isnt completely finished and i have 2 small holes in the back of the bookshelves in which i will fix soon, or because i havent polyfilled them yet?

also whats the best way to go about making a simple crossover? i plan to make the 6.5 inch polk drivers cross over at 3000 htz to the tweeters somehow.

one more thing is, i know veneering this will be extremely hard, so im thinking ill get 1/4 inch cherry furniture grade plywood and stain/poly it. cutting the 45 degree angles will suck. i dont even know if the tablesaw at my house can do that. i might have to use a router.

'resonating' is extremely vague. What are you hearing? Really loud midrange peak, bloated bass peak...

TBH you need some damping material inside. I also highly recommend the foam gasket tape on partsexpress for sealing the gap between the driver and enclosure (baffle). Are the enclosures sealed up fairly well?

If you're still lacking bass the drivers may need a ported enclosure, but like many of us have said is pretty hard to get right without knowing the thiele/small parameters. If you go too high you'll get one note of bass, if you go too low it might not do much of anything.

Last thing, you NEED a crossover on the tweeter. Any significant amount of bass getting to the tweeter could fry the voice coil. Even if it's only a single capacitor at first. You shouldn't be using a tweeter without a cap on it (use a crossover calculator to find a rough value, usually 2+ kHz). For permanent use, consider a second order (-12dB per octave) where you intend on crossing it over (read around on the12volt like pioneerisloud suggested).

Honestly, there is a ton of information you need to know about speaker building at first and it can be kind of overwhelming, but don't let that discourage you. Just be a nerd like me and spend hours reading about it














.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Polyfil is cheap and can't hurt. Just buy some and stick it in there, I'd never build a speaker without at least polyfil inside. PE also has more expensive stuff that's meant for the inside of speakers, but I'd say it's not worth it for your experiment (unless the drivers are really good).

I'd agree sealed is safer. Stick to that if you don't know the specs of the woofer.

A crossover is more than just a single capacitor...that's the bare minimum since it's a pretty shallow slope (6dB per octave). Second order is a coil in parallel and a cap in series IIRC, and you keep adding components from there (in a certain configuration obviously).

I don't see how a low pass filter is any more complicated, first order is just a single inductor (coil) in series with the woofer







. Coils can be expensive though.

Yes, just keep them sealed for now. You could just get those, or spend a little while with a xover calculator and buy the components yourself. Don't bother with expensive caps or massive coils right now, it's kind of a stab in the dark anyway, so there's no point in wasting money on an overkill crossover.

Unplug the speaker completely. Then use the multimeter to measure across the two connections on the speaker. Switch it to one of the lower settings. The multimeter only measures DC resistance (Re). That will give you an idea of the impedance, but most likely it will be below it. For example if it measures 7.32ohms it's most likely an 8 ohm driver.

Just a side note, when you set the multimeter to the ohmmeter section, it sends out a small current through the lead and then measures resistance by how much current/voltage is actually received at the other lead. So if you touch it to a live wire or speaker when using the ohmmeter you could damage it.

Honestly, you don't need that unless the enclosures are extremely poorly built. In that case I'd tell you to take them apart and cut the pieces over again anyway.

'resonating' is extremely vague. What are you hearing? Really loud midrange peak, bloated bass peak...

TBH you need some damping material inside. I also highly recommend the foam gasket tape on partsexpress for sealing the gap between the driver and enclosure (baffle). Are the enclosures sealed up fairly well?

If you're still lacking bass the drivers may need a ported enclosure, but like many of us have said is pretty hard to get right without knowing the thiele/small parameters. If you go too high you'll get one note of bass, if you go too low it might not do much of anything.

Last thing, you NEED a crossover on the tweeter. Any significant amount of bass getting to the tweeter could fry the voice coil. Even if it's only a single capacitor at first. You shouldn't be using a tweeter without a cap on it (use a crossover calculator to find a rough value, usually 2+ kHz). For permanent use, consider a second order (-12dB per octave) where you intend on crossing it over (read around on the12volt like pioneerisloud suggested).

Honestly, there is a ton of information you need to know about speaker building at first and it can be kind of overwhelming, but don't let that discourage you. Just be a nerd like me and spend hours reading about it














.

any suggestions for crossing over the woofers to the tweeters at 3,000 htz?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-317

i plan on getting that. there are actually braces in these cabnets, but they are small. i plan to also put furniture gradeplywood on the outside as well as completely seal them up. i'm thinking about getting a driver with no voice coil on the side of the cabnets to improve bass response since they will be completely sealed. ive seen this on some old looking b&w speakers and its awesome. any sugguestions on how to do this and where to get the stuff to make it air tight? the thing im looking for is like a woofer surround with strong foam in the middle so when the woofer moves, it moves too from air pressure. it really does help with bass response. im thinking about putting that on the side of each cabnet but i will use a hole saw if i can, i dont like the jigsaw for circles lol.

thanks for tips btw.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
any suggestions for crossing over the woofers to the tweeters at 3,000 htz?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-317

i plan on getting that. there are actually braces in these cabnets, but they are small. i plan to also put furniture gradeplywood on the outside as well as completely seal them up. i'm thinking about getting a driver with no voice coil on the side of the cabnets to improve bass response since they will be completely sealed. ive seen this on some old looking b&w speakers and its awesome. any sugguestions on how to do this and where to get the stuff to make it air tight? the thing im looking for is like a woofer surround with strong foam in the middle so when the woofer moves, it moves too from air pressure. it really does help with bass response. im thinking about putting that on the side of each cabnet but i will use a hole saw if i can, i dont like the jigsaw for circles lol.

thanks for tips btw.

Polyfil is much cheaper. It's the stuff used for pillows and stuffed animals and stuff. You can get it at joanns or some place like that for like $3-4 per 3/4lb bag.

The driver you were talking about is called a passive radiator. It uses the same principle as a port, only there is a cone moving instead of the column of air in the port. Just like ports they have a resonant frequency that can be tuned by adding mass to them. http://www.parts-express.com/resourc...ide/choose.cfm

You might want to see how they act in a ported box before you cut more holes in your enclosures. Use some pvc pipe if you have any. You could try taking out the tweeter and temporarily putting a port tube in that hole. You'd pretty much have to tune it by ear.


----------



## Chunky-Bunker

I'd like to join the club, if possible. My dad gave me his old Fisher speakers. All of the dust caps are indented, and the left speaker is missing it's midrange, but after small amounts of research, I have yet to come up with a way to fix that. They still sound very nice, and luckily, the missing midrange has yet to kill me.

If anyone here has any suggestions as to replacing any/all of the drivers, I'd be interested in hearing them. Ever since I was very young, I've enjoyed listening to music through these speakers, and I'd really like to restore them to the way they were in their heyday.

PS. Sorry for the terrible picture quality.


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
any suggestions for crossing over the woofers to the tweeters at 3,000 htz?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-317

i plan on getting that. there are actually braces in these cabnets, but they are small. i plan to also put furniture gradeplywood on the outside as well as completely seal them up. i'm thinking about getting a driver with no voice coil on the side of the cabnets to improve bass response since they will be completely sealed. ive seen this on some old looking b&w speakers and its awesome. any sugguestions on how to do this and where to get the stuff to make it air tight? the thing im looking for is like a woofer surround with strong foam in the middle so when the woofer moves, it moves too from air pressure. it really does help with bass response. im thinking about putting that on the side of each cabnet but i will use a hole saw if i can, i dont like the jigsaw for circles lol.

thanks for tips btw.

Passive radiator are not for every driver or speaker design, and they tend to cost a lot IMO. Acousta-Stuf costs a lot, I do not know why are you going to get that for such a cheap enclosure with cheap drivers. Get polyfill or fiberglass instead.

If speaker moves from air pressure, that equal distortion. Hence, a strong spider to prevent excursion caused by air pressure. Some drivers are intended for sealed design or with a bass reflex. The main difference between passive radiator and a port is only the size of the enclosure. There's really no benefits of using a passive radiator than a port.

I'd really really _really_ suggest you to research about speakers and speaker building before you try DIY audio. I'm am not sure if you're even serious about making a good-sound speaker. I can not take you seriously if you're just going to throw a bunch of junk together without any thought-processing and expect them to sound like Polk bookshelves. Lurk more on DIY audio forums, read more books, and go audition some good speakers.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FearSC549* 
Passive radiator are not for every driver or speaker design, and they tend to cost a lot IMO. Acousta-Stuf costs a lot, I do not know why are you going to get that for such a cheap enclosure with cheap drivers. Get polyfill or fiberglass instead.

If speaker moves from air pressure, that equal distortion. Hence, a strong spider to prevent excursion caused by air pressure. Some drivers are intended for sealed design or with a bass reflex. The main difference between passive radiator and a port is only the size of the enclosure. There's really no benefits of using a passive radiator than a port.

I'd really really _really_ suggest you to research about speakers and speaker building before you try DIY audio. I'm am not sure if you're even serious about making a good-sound speaker. I can not take you seriously if you're just going to throw a bunch of junk together without any thought-processing and expect them to sound like Polk bookshelves. Lurk more on DIY audio forums, read more books, and go audition some good speakers.


you are kinda right. theres no way in hell of telling for real what exact driver models these things are, i got all this crap for free, so i cant complain. messing with free crap and making speakers out of that is better than spending alot of money imo. learn by tearing crap apart, rebuilding it myself, making new ones seemed like a good idea. i guess ill google around til i find awesome info for my own needs. too bad google wont help me find out what the exact driver models these are.

i cant audition ANY decent speakers aside from studio monitors at guitar center. there are NO stores with damn good speakers around here. theres a bose store, bang and olufson went out of business, best buy is garbage, any other thoughts for the washington DC area to audition speakers that can sound as good as some $10,000 jmlab speakers?

so one question i have is: i know studio monitors are designed for pure flat response, so is that bad for home theater? im not sure on that. i was impressed when i noticed a lot of 105+ db from some studio monitors, meaning they are extremely efficient meaning they dont need as much power to sound as loud which has nothing to do with the actual sound quality. i have the problem that the only speakers ive ever heard that are considered high end would be: my friends gallo 3.0 system thing, some $6,000 pair of bookhelves he has which sound amazing, i dont even count bose at all. they suck imo. ive never heard a klipsch speaker. ive heard a psb image t4 and the bookshelf that goes with it and center with same driver size which sounded awesome.

so basically my problem is i have nothing to compare with in testing hifi audio. im not even sure if my NAD T751 receiver is even a hifi receiver. people on this site told me its garbage so i guess it is.


----------



## TUDJ

Quad 12L2 for me


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Quad 12L2 for me




























lol old tv is old. does it look good?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
lol old tv is old. does it look good?

It's not too bad, I only have it because I keep spending money on audio stuff instead of buying an LCD one, I don't even watch it - I can't remember the last time it was switched on.


----------



## Havokr505

Hey can I be added to the List?







Im running some old school stuff atm xD









Yes 2 paradigm 5se Speakers and a single Dynaco a-25 ( I blew the other one....needs to be fixed eventually).









And Powering it to my Pc is my old 1974 Harman/kardan 330A the Display lights are busted and so is the Radio Tuner. nether less suits my rig perfectly lol


----------



## gorb

holy crap that is the dustiest equipment ever


----------



## Havokr505

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gorb* 
holy crap that is the dustiest equipment ever

Yea my room is a bit dusty lol xD


----------



## gorb

you should dust, vacuum, and buy a hepa filter or something


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunky-Bunker* 
I'd like to join the club, if possible. My dad gave me his old Fisher speakers. All of the dust caps are indented, and the left speaker is missing it's midrange, but after small amounts of research, I have yet to come up with a way to fix that. They still sound very nice, and luckily, the missing midrange has yet to kill me.

If anyone here has any suggestions as to replacing any/all of the drivers, I'd be interested in hearing them. Ever since I was very young, I've enjoyed listening to music through these speakers, and I'd really like to restore them to the way they were in their heyday.

PS. Sorry for the terrible picture quality.











What TT is that? I've been looking for one.... preferably direct drive.


----------



## Chunky-Bunker

Quote:

What TT is that? I've been looking for one.... preferably direct drive.
It's a Technics SL-D30, and it is indeed a direct drive. It's been sitting in my parents' closet since I was young, and I've recently discovered the wonders of vinyl, so they were happy to hand it down.

Are you looking to upgrade from something you currently own, or are you looking for a first-time kind of thing?


----------



## theCanadian

I've never owned my own TT before. If I get one, it'll be my first.


----------



## computeruler

I have an sl-d35. Looks just like it.


----------



## Chunky-Bunker

Quote:



I've never owned my own TT before. If I get one, it'll be my first.


You could probably find one for pretty cheap if you do some searching. It's a damn good starter turntable, if you ask me.


----------



## Havokr505

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Havokr505* 
Hey can I be added to the List?







Im running some old school stuff atm xD









Yes 2 paradigm 5se Speakers and a single Dynaco a-25 ( I blew the other one....needs to be fixed eventually).









And Powering it to my Pc is my old 1974 Harman/kardan 330A the Display lights are busted and so is the Radio Tuner. nether less suits my rig perfectly lol

slight update....blew the Amp...now a 1984(I think) Panasonic technics Su-8080


----------



## computeruler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Chunky-Bunker* 
You could probably find one for pretty cheap if you do some searching. It's a damn good starter turntable, if you ask me.

Ya it is. You don't really need to calibrate it at all either.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


Quad 12L2 for me




























Another pic


----------



## Chunky-Bunker

Quote:

Ya it is. You don't really need to calibrate it at all either.
Which is something that completely made me happy about it, since I just started getting into this stuff. I mean, I'm a smart guy, and probably could've figured it out, but it was easier not having to do a whole lot.


----------



## coreyL

https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=8991










how good is this paper cone 8" neodymium magnet woofer for $19.50?










is the driver in a psb image 2T better than that 8 inch woofer?

im asking this because im interested in starting to speaker build. i plan on getting cheap drivers that are damn good for my first few builds.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=8991










how good is this paper cone 8" neodymium magnet woofer for $19.50?










is the driver in a psb image 2T better than that 8 inch woofer?

im asking this because im interested in starting to speaker build. i plan on getting cheap drivers that are damn good for my first few builds.


If you're buying stuff, than seriously, build one of these. The bargain mini or ZMV5 are pretty cheap.

The guy that designed all of those obviously has lots of experience, and the proper equipment. Plus, look at the website, he's measured a ton of speakers so he chose drivers with low distortion for the price.

Like I said, seriously consider a kit, or at least use a design. It will save you huge headaches and will come out much much better. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying you can't do it, I'm saying a design will be much better since these guys have invested in the expensive tools needed to do it right.


----------



## ||LAW||Doom

Just got M-Audio AV30's


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=8991










how good is this paper cone 8" neodymium magnet woofer for $19.50?










is the driver in a psb image 2T better than that 8 inch woofer?

im asking this because im interested in starting to speaker build. i plan on getting cheap drivers that are damn good for my first few builds.

Research reasearch research. That's all you need for a good sounding system. We cannot help you with every specific details about specific drivers. Search on Google. If you get darn good drivers but with a design without any scientific inputs whatsoever, it will sound worse than boomboxes. As I said before, lurk more on audio forums. OCN is not an audio forum.IMO, the sub-forum for audio on OCN cannot provide enough information/contribution to speaker making.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FearSC549* 
Research reasearch research. That's all you need for a good sounding system. We cannot help you with every specific details about specific drivers. Search on Google. If you get darn good drivers but with a design without any scientific inputs whatsoever, it will sound worse than boomboxes. As I said before, lurk more on audio forums. OCN is not an audio forum.IMO, the sub-forum for audio on OCN cannot provide enough information/contribution to speaker making.

yeah, i have a ******ed amount of information to learn.

https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...roducts_id=275










i almost poo'ed a brick when i saw 97 db sensitivity, 42 hz - 14,000 htz on an 8 inch woofer. then again it is $200 lol.

https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...roducts_id=286










then theres 98 db and 5,000 - 50,000 htz from this badass looking tweeter! i'd put this tweeter in my speaker over most $100+ ones i see around based on looks alone lol. its pretty cheap for what i see imo, but it might actually suck. i dont know because im not experienced.

even if i dont get that ridiculous $200 woofer, i really want that tweeter regardless, anyone have any opinions on it before i ask other audio forums?

i almost want to make some speakers with those drivers. ive never seen 97 db from a woofer before, but i havent seen that many.

any audio forum recommendations?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
yeah, i have a ******ed amount of information to learn.

https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...roducts_id=275

i almost poo'ed a brick when i saw 97 db sensitivity, 42 hz - 14,000 htz on an 8 inch woofer. then again it is $200 lol.

https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...roducts_id=286

then theres 98 db and 5,000 - 50,000 htz from this badass looking tweeter! i'd put this tweeter in my speaker over most $100+ ones i see around based on looks alone lol. its pretty cheap for what i see imo, but it might actually suck. i dont know because im not experienced.

even if i dont get that ridiculous $200 woofer, i really want that tweeter regardless, anyone have any opinions on it before i ask other audio forums?

i almost want to make some speakers with those drivers. ive never seen 97 db from a woofer before, but i havent seen that many.

any audio forum recommendations?

Sensitivity shouldn't be that important. A few extra watts don't cost very much. Harmonic distortion is much much more important, plus a smooth frequency response. The numbers really mean nothing. Look at the graph.

For that kind of a price look at scan speak drivers.









The tweeter is a horn tweeter, I'm not sure about the physics but I remember reading that they aren't the best. Stick to a good dome tweeter. 50kHz is a little overkill. Most people can only hear 20kHz, so don't buy into excessive ratings like that. Check to see if the response is smooth up to 20kHz. Less peaks means simpler crossover.

Peaky response ==







<<







== Smooth response

Loud, high distortion ==







<<







== Low distortion

Read around http://www.diyaudio.com. If you really don't want to build something that's already been designed, start with something cheap so there's no great loss if it doesn't turn out great.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *drjoey1500* 
Sensitivity shouldn't be that important. A few extra watts don't cost very much. Harmonic distortion is much much more important, plus a smooth frequency response. The numbers really mean nothing. Look at the graph.

For that kind of a price look at scan speak drivers.









The tweeter is a horn tweeter, I'm not sure about the physics but I remember reading that they aren't the best. Stick to a good dome tweeter. 50kHz is a little overkill. Most people can only hear 20kHz, so don't buy into excessive ratings like that. Check to see if the response is smooth up to 20kHz. Less peaks means simpler crossover.

Peaky response ==







<<







== Smooth response

Loud, high distortion ==







<<







== Low distortion

Read around http://www.diyaudio.com. If you really don't want to build something that's already been designed, start with something cheap so there's no great loss if it doesn't turn out great.


hmm, true. ill probably star off using dayton drivers or so until my cabnet making gets better, thanks for the link


----------



## Th0m0_202

i have a set of pioneers







but im not allowed them on my pc







they put out more bass then my logitech thx 2.1's ill take a photo now/find one. i am looking for a new amp tho. so im using a fail cheap sub box thing atm for power








they are pioneer CS-T2100-k


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
hmm, true. ill probably star off using dayton drivers or so until my cabnet making gets better, thanks for the link

Read more about speakers and such. Remember, not everyone is around to answer your questions. Also, that's a super tweeter right there(aka 5khz+), that won't do any good in a speaker system, especially no practical home audio speakers have a SPL of 98db @ 1m/1w throughout the whole freq. range. That's more like professional audio(PA systems).

Also, I do not know why do you consider cabinet working that important. IMO you need to work on learning about speakers first then moving on to cabinet. Yes, cabinet working is as equally as a driver and a system design, but really consider starting out with speakers. Just like computers, when you learn about it, you don't start out with how it looks, how sexy the case is, but you look into the internal parts(what makes it work).


----------



## Th0m0_202

hey can you guys recommend me a new mid speaker? im pretty sure its 5.25in. some decided it would be funny and throw something at my speakers and it put a small rip in one of them. i dont know of a place that can re-cone it so i need to replace it. something kind of cheap and half decent? thank


----------



## Zeva

i got myself a set of polk Monitor 40s! does that count?


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Th0m0_202* 
hey can you guys recommend me a new mid speaker? im pretty sure its 5.25in. some decided it would be funny and throw something at my speakers and it put a small rip in one of them. i dont know of a place that can re-cone it so i need to replace it. something kind of cheap and half decent? thank









If you don't worry much about a different sound signature and/or bad sounding speakers, then this is a great choice. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=299-071


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Th0m0_202* 
hey can you guys recommend me a new mid speaker? im pretty sure its 5.25in. some decided it would be funny and throw something at my speakers and it put a small rip in one of them. i dont know of a place that can re-cone it so i need to replace it. something kind of cheap and half decent? thank









What speakers are they? Pics?

If it's just a small hole you can repair it with a piece of tissue paper soaked in glue/water. I've done it before. You can actually see where I repaired the mid of my speakers in the link on the members list.


----------



## pioneerisloud

That reminds me, I still have to attempt to fix a pushed in dustcap on one of my mids







.


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
That reminds me, I still have to attempt to fix a pushed in dustcap on one of my mids







.

Vacuum works best







Just be careful not to actually suck the whole dust cap off, or even the whole diaphragm.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FearSC549*


Vacuum works best







Just be careful not to actually suck the whole dust cap off, or even the whole diaphragm.


I've tried that, they're too stiff. Go figure.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FearSC549* 
Read more about speakers and such. Remember, not everyone is around to answer your questions. Also, that's a super tweeter right there(aka 5khz+), that won't do any good in a speaker system, especially no practical home audio speakers have a SPL of 98db @ 1m/1w throughout the whole freq. range. That's more like professional audio(PA systems).

Also, I do not know why do you consider cabinet working that important. IMO you need to work on learning about speakers first then moving on to cabinet. Yes, cabinet working is as equally as a driver and a system design, but really consider starting out with speakers. Just like computers, when you learn about it, you don't start out with how it looks, how sexy the case is, but you look into the internal parts(what makes it work).


haha, thats why i took apart my rockford fosgate punch SE driver which wouldnt work. the voice coil got burned. not suprised considering it came out of somones car who couldnt even bother paying to get it back before it got impounded. it did give me a physical understanding of exactly how the driver works on a more detailed level than taking apart crappy $2 drivers...then again thats kinda weird because i already knew the theory on how they work.

a current gets sent from a device into a voice coil which turns it into an electro-magnet which reacts with the permanent earth magnet. when the voice coil moves up and down towards and away from the earth magnet which is glued to the basket assembly, it will move the spider which helps keep the voice coil stabilized and move the diaphragm assembly (cone and dustcap) which in turn, will move air molecules which will reach your ears and move a tiny bone in your ear many times per second in correlation with the air molecules movement which is measured in htz and decibels. this bone is attatched to a nerve and the brain interperates that as sound. did i hit the mark?

even knowing that does nothing to help me in figuring out the quality of speakers. when i see graphs of distortion versus decibels, crossover diagrams, other stuff on charts and whatnot, it literally looks like greek to me. i have no idea how the shape of the cabinet works with with the acoustical properties of the driver itself other than a curved cabinet will reduce resonance dramatically according to some polk audio engineer looking guy i saw on a video. these are the areas i need to learn huge ammounts of information. then i need to learn how to produce first, functional, then good looking cabinets applying what i have learned.

on a side note, that super tweeter is actually a good quality tweeter? 38 bucks doesnt seem too steep for even a good dome tweeter to me. im guessing id have to fiddle with the crossover alot to get that tweeter to match up well with any 90 or less db woofer though, that being said it seems it would match up well with that fullrange and i plan on looking online on reviews of that fullrange with 97db, but i wouldnt even build with one til i got a good ammount of money and really knew what i was doing.


----------



## Th0m0_202

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


What speakers are they? Pics?

If it's just a small hole you can repair it with a piece of tissue paper soaked in glue/water. I've done it before. You can actually see where I repaired the mid of my speakers in the link on the members list.


 pioneer CS-T2100-k. i posted 2 pics about an hour ago. and its about 1/4 the way around the edge of the cone







there is nothing to attach it to :'( and i dont know how to pull speakers apart to fix it, sound still comes out of it but its that great when it gets turned up to nearing dumb levels


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Th0m0_202* 
pioneer CS-T2100-k. i posted 2 pics about an hour ago. and its about 1/4 the way around the edge of the cone







there is nothing to attach it to :'( and i dont know how to pull speakers apart to fix it, sound still comes out of it but its that great when it gets turned up to nearing dumb levels

ive used some dap rubber sealant. you could try getting wet tissue paper and some of that over it, it would basically making a new rubber surround. i did that when a screwdriver went through my x540 driver and burned the rubber sealant in by actually hooking up a 250 watt amp to it and playing bass, i love you to make damn sure the rubber would hold. it will hold all right









i hope i helped.

edit: i know its almost the same thing the other guy said realizing this after i posted, but the rubber worked really well for my needs, im thinking it will work better than any glue.


----------



## Th0m0_202

its all paper tho







but thanks anyway


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Th0m0_202*


its all paper tho







but thanks anyway


meaning it doesnt have a rubber surround? like those old panasonic paper cone tweeters?


----------



## Th0m0_202

mmm kinda yer







the sub has a rubber surround but the tweeter and the mid doesnt. they are about 6 years old tho. and im only 19 and more into cars and pc's atm so sorry if i say anything ******ed


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Th0m0_202*


mmm kinda yer







the sub has a rubber surround but the tweeter and the mid doesnt. they are about 6 years old tho. and im only 19 and more into cars and pc's atm so sorry if i say anything ******ed


ahh, like them old fisher speakers, i never was a fan of those >_> my crappy polk 6.5 inch drivers have bigger magnets than most of those 10 inch woofers. they do claim to be 95 db or so on most of those things ive seen though, i guess thats good.

edit: im only 19 too by the way, age is not an excuse imo, i look at my lack of motivation as the reason i'm not an accomplished speaker builder yet.


----------



## coreyL

ok so i want to build some bookshelves out of these in the near future, i might have 2 woofers each bookshelf but thats $100 a speaker. i'm not familiar with the match up of any of these but anyone think it would go well? im aiming to make them sound as good as medium end studio monitors like rockit's. is that possible with those driver configurations? those crossovers match up well with the tweeter, i could go higher on the crossover to have the woofer and tweeter mesh, or should the woofer stop where the tweeter begins? ill finidh my current bookshelf project first before even thinking of buying any of that by the way, im just curious if that matches up before i even understand the research based on my hunch.


----------



## SlyFox

Please don't create your own build when it comes to speakers. There's a lot of engineering that goes into it. I'd advise getting a DIY kit. If you can up your budget a bit I'd go with this kit from GR Research.

GR Research N2X


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SlyFox*


Please don't create your own build when it comes to speakers. There's a lot of engineering that goes into it. I'd advise getting a DIY kit. If you can up your budget a bit I'd go with this kit from GR Research.

GR Research N2X



why would i be buying premade kits when the point is to learn myself at the research involved you speak of? i want to be able to make my own speakers better than those someday, who cares if they arent as good at first? its called practice. when i set my mind to something, i do it, not bull**** around and pretend im going to do it.

anyway, my friends dad hasnt gotten around to helping me make a simple crossover for my first bookshelves. ill have them finished sooner or later though.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


why would i be buying premade kits when the point is to learn myself at the research involved you speak of? i want to be able to make my own speakers better than those someday, who cares if they arent as good at first? its called practice. when i set my mind to something, i do it, not bull**** around and pretend im going to do it.

anyway, my friends dad hasnt gotten around to helping me make a simple crossover for my first bookshelves. ill have them finished sooner or later though.


The point we're trying to tell you, is that in order to design good speakers you have to spend a lot on the right tools, plus you need to learn a lot. You could probably get away at first with guessing on the crossover, but if you want to do it right you have to measure the drivers yourself so you can measure the response in the box and get rid of peaks. There are tons of things to consider as well as just crossover point.

If you're willing to do that, that's great, you sound as crazy as me, but just realize the people that designed speakers like the link earlier have years of experience plus hundreds of dollars worth of tools.

But before you spend that much you should probably learn the basics







. People usually recommend using a design the first time just to give you an idea of what is involved, and how everything works out.

TBH, I would hesitate (for now) to design some myself because passive crossover design can get a little messy, plus I'd need to find a program to do it. Plus I know stuff that's already been designed will sound better since these guys know more than I do.

With that said, I'm planning on putting a sound system in my car myself. Of course, I will be using active crossovers so that simplifies it a lot.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


The point we're trying to tell you, is that in order to design good speakers you have to spend a lot on the right tools, plus you need to learn a lot. You could probably get away at first with guessing on the crossover, but if you want to do it right you have to measure the drivers yourself so you can measure the response in the box and get rid of peaks. There are tons of things to consider as well as just crossover point.

If you're willing to do that, that's great, you sound as crazy as me, but just realize the people that designed speakers like the link earlier have years of experience plus hundreds of dollars worth of tools.

But before you spend that much you should probably learn the basics







. People usually recommend using a design the first time just to give you an idea of what is involved, and how everything works out.

TBH, I would hesitate (for now) to design some myself because passive crossover design can get a little messy, plus I'd need to find a program to do it. Plus I know stuff that's already been designed will sound better since these guys know more than I do.

With that said, I'm planning on putting a sound system in my car myself. Of course, I will be using active crossovers so that simplifies it a lot.


heh, i dont have my car yet to mess with, speaking of cars, i got my rockford fosgate 12 inch sub out of that damned bandpass box and put it in a sealed smaller box for better response. its less punchy and boomy but i like it









so you say buying a kit is better than buying a pre made dayton crossover?


----------



## Liighthead

hey got a Highlander sub not sure what name it is lol..
looks like ( this one )
but says 220watts on the back.. every thing elese is the same though lol..
gonna take out the amp and use for either my 1 of my 10" or my 12" subs.. see what happens need to rebuild 4 boxes.. so yeah haha

it any good? :/


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*











ok so i want to build some bookshelves out of these in the near future, i might have 2 woofers each bookshelf but thats $100 a speaker. i'm not familiar with the match up of any of these but anyone think it would go well? im aiming to make them sound as good as medium end studio monitors like rockit's. is that possible with those driver configurations? those crossovers match up well with the tweeter, i could go higher on the crossover to have the woofer and tweeter mesh, or should the woofer stop where the tweeter begins? ill finidh my current bookshelf project first before even thinking of buying any of that by the way, im just curious if that matches up before i even understand the research based on my hunch.


how much power you plan on putting threw the speakers? that woofer looks to have a low power handling and hope you noticed the tweeter having a 6ohm load.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SlyFox*


Please don't create your own build when it comes to speakers. There's a lot of engineering that goes into it. I'd advise getting a DIY kit. If you can up your budget a bit I'd go with this kit from GR Research.

GR Research N2X


building speakers isnt that hard. just a lot of designing and calculations. i built my own bookshelfs from scratch beginning of the summer and sound awesome.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


The point we're trying to tell you, is that in order to design good speakers you have to spend a lot on the right tools, plus you need to learn a lot. You could probably get away at first with guessing on the crossover, but if you want to do it right you have to measure the drivers yourself so you can measure the response in the box and get rid of peaks. There are tons of things to consider as well as just crossover point.

If you're willing to do that, that's great, you sound as crazy as me, but just realize the people that designed speakers like the link earlier have years of experience plus hundreds of dollars worth of tools.

But before you spend that much you should probably learn the basics







. People usually recommend using a design the first time just to give you an idea of what is involved, and how everything works out.

TBH, I would hesitate (for now) to design some myself because passive crossover design can get a little messy, plus I'd need to find a program to do it. Plus I know stuff that's already been designed will sound better since these guys know more than I do.

With that said, I'm planning on putting a sound system in my car myself. Of course, I will be using active crossovers so that simplifies it a lot.


for a basic bookshelf speaker he dosn't need super expensive tools or any thing special. lot of designing software can be found online for free if you know where to look. as for passive and active, passive is easier to design and are what 80% of the people are going to use because going active will cost a lot of money buying equipment to run each speaker individually.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


heh, i dont have my car yet to mess with, speaking of cars, i got my rockford fosgate 12 inch sub out of that damned bandpass box and put it in a sealed smaller box for better response. its less punchy and boomy but i like it









so you say buying a kit is better than buying a pre made dayton crossover?


designing you own crossover is imo 10x better then buying a pre-maid one. it allows you to use custom crossover and slopes to match the speakers your using. however i wouldn't of chose that woofer in less you plan running multiple woofers. another thing that bothers me with the speaker choice would be that you don't know the response graph to see where the speaker starts to break off.

start reading before you jump to far, here are some websites with useful info:

http://www.zaphaudio.com/
http://www.passivecrossovers.com/index.htm
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/crossover12db.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/index.php
http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=6

edit: if you want a list of parts that i used to build mine then just PM me.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


how much power you plan on putting threw the speakers? that woofer looks to have a low power handling and hope you noticed the tweeter having a 6ohm load.

building speakers isnt that hard. just a lot of designing and calculations. i built my own bookshelfs from scratch beginning of the summer and sound awesome.

for a basic bookshelf speaker he dosn't need super expensive tools or any thing special. lot of designing software can be found online for free if you know where to look. as for passive and active, passive is easier to design and are what 80% of the people are going to use because going active will cost a lot of money buying equipment to run each speaker individually.

designing you own crossover is imo 10x better then buying a pre-maid one. it allows you to use custom crossover and slopes to match the speakers your using. however i wouldn't of chose that woofer in less you plan running multiple woofers. another thing that bothers me with the speaker choice would be that you don't know the response graph to see where the speaker starts to break off.

start reading before you jump to far, here are some websites with useful info:

http://www.zaphaudio.com/
http://www.passivecrossovers.com/index.htm
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/crossover12db.html
http://www.diyaudio.com/index.php
http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=6

edit: if you want a list of parts that i used to build mine then just PM me.


hmm, my bad. it was stated on the site that those woofers can actually take alot more power but thats what they were rated at. somone said 15 watts at 92db is equivilent to 40 watts at 87db. honestly i have doubts that those woofers will wear out from 50 or more watts RMS lookign at what they are made of from the picture but im not an expert, you guys are?

Quote:



92db with 15w is the same output power as 87db with 40w. Of course, used with the T-AMP, 4 of these woofers (2 for right, 2 for left) can do wonders (just like you had a 40W per channel amp).

It seems that these are filed in the wrong spot. Most uses of these are Full Range + Super Tweet or they are employed as an excellent Prosound midrange/wideband.

Anyway, the point is that the maximum amount of output isn't different from a regular 6-1/2" woofer--the input power requirement is different because these are more efficient.









The level frequency response and the high-end clarity is awesome. Thank you, Parts Express!


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=297-446










i was looking into this 8 inch woofer instead of that 6.5 inch woofer actually.

Specifications:

*Power handling: 80 watts RMS/110 watts max *Voice coil diameter: 1-3/8" *Nominal impedance: 8 ohms *Re: 6.5 ohms *Frequency range: 29-2,000 Hz *Fs: 29 Hz *SPL: 86 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 1.88 cu. ft. *Qms: 5.02 *Qes: .50 *Qts: .45 *Xmax: 5.8 mm *Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 8-1/2", Cutout Diameter: 7-3/8", Mounting Depth: 3-7/8".

i rerally like the idea of mounting those on the side of some bookshelves having it be skinny and having 3-5 inch woofers and that ribbon tweeter design inspired by gallo 3.1 speakers.










i'd like the bookshelves, yes i said bookshelves. to be much more compact than these. they should be anywhere from 15-20 inches tall, 5-7 inches wide, 12 inches deep at the base, maybe 4 inches deep where the smaller drivers and ribbon tweeter are located. but yeah... i might end up buying the drivers, making enclosures out of MDF for them and making crossovers until i can get it right with the help of my friend's dad some time later when i understand things like acoustical properties of the mdf vs. the cone material vs the frequency response, how the microfrads of the capacitors and the measurements of the coils on the woofers and tweeters affect each other so many other things i probably dont know since people who make me look like im a ****** keep showing me that buying drivers that have good specs and putting them in a home built box is a bad idea.

thanks for the links btw, ill read up on it when i visit my parents house in the valley on my laptop.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
hmm, my bad. it was stated on the site that those woofers can actually take alot more power but thats what they were rated at. somone said 15 watts at 92db is equivilent to 40 watts at 87db. honestly i have doubts that those woofers will wear out from 50 or more watts RMS lookign at what they are made of from the picture but im not an expert, you guys are?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=297-446

http://www.parts-express.com/images/.../297-446_s.jpg

i was looking into this 8 inch woofer instead of that 6.5 inch woofer actually.

Specifications:

*Power handling: 80 watts RMS/110 watts max *Voice coil diameter: 1-3/8" *Nominal impedance: 8 ohms *Re: 6.5 ohms *Frequency range: 29-2,000 Hz *Fs: 29 Hz *SPL: 86 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 1.88 cu. ft. *Qms: 5.02 *Qes: .50 *Qts: .45 *Xmax: 5.8 mm *Dimensions: Overall Diameter: 8-1/2", Cutout Diameter: 7-3/8", Mounting Depth: 3-7/8".

i rerally like the idea of mounting those on the side of some bookshelves having it be skinny and having 3-5 inch woofers and that ribbon tweeter design inspired by gallo 3.1 speakers.

http://www.fineav.com/Forum/TBoard/T...06_banpo_5.jpg

i'd like the bookshelves, yes i said bookshelves. to be much more compact than these. they should be anywhere from 15-20 inches tall, 5-7 inches wide, 12 inches deep at the base, maybe 4 inches deep where the smaller drivers and ribbon tweeter are located. but yeah... i might end up buying the drivers, making enclosures out of MDF for them and making crossovers until i can get it right with the help of my friend's dad some time later when i understand things like acoustical properties of the mdf vs. the cone material vs the frequency response, how the microfrads of the capacitors and the measurements of the coils on the woofers and tweeters affect each other so many other things i probably dont know since people who make me look like im a ****** keep showing me that buying drivers that have good specs and putting them in a home built box is a bad idea.

thanks for the links btw, ill read up on it when i visit my parents house in the valley on my laptop.

what i then he meant about [email protected] is like [email protected] is the volume of the sound output. not that you can push 40 watts threw these speakers.

also i wouldn't classify my self as an expert in this just some one that is a educated in the area.

that 8" speaker is nice from what i can tell but here's the catch, your going to need more room then what your wanting to use for that woofer. from the response graph that is posted it would be better for a 3 way system because it needs to be crossed over in the neighborhood of 1khz or lower and a mid woofer would puck up from there till the tweeter.

i used this peerless 830656 woofer in my project and have it crossed over at 2800hz with a L-R 2nd order crossover and it sounds wonderful. it could go with the ribbon tweeter but you might have to manipulate the crossover so that the power source would see 8 ohms above the crossover point. it took me almost 3 months of reading and designing before i bought anything.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...78&ctab=2#Tabs


----------



## jeffries7

Hey guys, i'm new to the world of speakers but my setup at the moment is a Cambridge Audio AZUR 650A amp with a set of Monitor Audio BR2's.

Love them and they blow away anything i had before


----------



## TUDJ

Post pics!









The BR2's are supposed to be great for the money, I've not had a chance to hear them though.


----------



## jeffries7

Will do, camera just returned from RMA today









Had to use my iPhone as my SD card has gone walkies so I'll get some proper pictures tomorrow.

BR2's









AZUR 650A


----------



## computeruler

Update me to a pair of JBL s31II


----------



## coreyL

http://www.ohmacoustics.com/store_it...=1121101255312










i got this for free. is it any good? i plan on using it as a center with my advent prodigy towers. is this a good idea or no?


----------



## Liighthead

seam 1/2 decent :] not so sure about a center though...

could always try it?


----------



## Mauritio

Gonna post some of my thingy's later this week
-4x B&W Speakers + Marantz amp (dunno what number because I'm at school lol)
-Phillips HTS9140 (don't know it counts as valid entry of the speaker club but yeah I thought I would mention it  )

Would this be enough (when I post some pics) to gain entry to this sacred place?


----------



## spRICE

I would like to be a member because I just got a pair of vintage JBL 62T's. They qualify right?


----------



## LingLing1337

I'm in with my Cambridge Sirocco S30. System is Peachtree Decco DAC/Amp--> Eosone (Polk) RSP-912--> S30s


----------



## PaulWog

Quote:


Originally Posted by *JeremyFr* 
Ok, here's the pics.

BTW Before anyone comments on my subwoofers knobs both turned all the way, I'm running off the crossover in the receiver using the x-over input on the sub so those are both bypassed









The volume knob on your subwoofer can't be bypassed by anything before it. It determines the volume of the bass it's going to output, based on the signal it's receiving.

I understand that the frequency is bypassed by only sending the frequencies you want to the subwoofer, but I'm confused how you would manage to render the sound-level knob on the subwoofer useless.


----------



## jbalsa2

I'd like to join the club if at all possible.









While I may not run the highest end hardware, I think the $480 I put into this setup is at least worthy of a note.









Currently, I run a 250W ACS 56 set by altec lansing, and alongside it (Hooked up to the same sound card) I have an RCA RS2652 Bass Reflex shelf set (200W) with a built in 200W amp.

If I have the bass cranked on both these sets, my monitor has a tendency of vibrating across my desk.




































-Jason


----------



## SUPER PISSED

lol no


----------



## jeffries7

Pictures of my setup


----------



## TUDJ

Have you tried turning the speakers inwards slightly? It should improve the sound - especially as you're so close (assuming you sit just at the bottom of the second pic).


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Have you tried turning the speakers inwards slightly? It should improve the sound - especially as you're so close (assuming you sit just at the bottom of the second pic).

doing that would direct the tweeters more towards his ears? high frequencies, i think are very precise in the direction it takes but low frequencies below 150 htz are almost non directional? this is to confirm my suspicions, i'm not a pro...yet.

btw, anyone know anythign about NAD T751's buzzing? mine started buzzing. i left it at my friends house where hopefully it will be diagnosed by a professional technician who has over 40 years of experience.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
doing that would direct the tweeters more towards his ears? high frequencies, i think are very precise in the direction it takes but low frequencies below 150 htz are almost non directional? this is to confirm my suspicions, i'm not a pro...yet.

Yes the sounds from the tweeter have much less "spread" than the lower frequencies from the mid drivers, that's why it's recommended to have the tweeters as close to ear level as possible. I don't know the cutoff where sound becomes non-directional, all I know is that subs are supposed to be "hidden", in that you can't or shouldn't be able to tell where they are in a room.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
doing that would direct the tweeters more towards his ears? high frequencies, i think are very precise in the direction it takes but low frequencies below 150 htz are almost non directional? this is to confirm my suspicions, i'm not a pro...yet.

btw, anyone know anythign about NAD T751's buzzing? mine started buzzing. i left it at my friends house where hopefully it will be diagnosed by a professional technician who has over 40 years of experience.

You are correct on one thing, the tweeters are DEFINITELY very directional. So they should be pointed towards his ears for best sound. As to your directional bass question, see below.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *tUDJ* 
Yes the sounds from the tweeter have much less "spread" than the lower frequencies from the mid drivers, that's why it's recommended to have the tweeters as close to ear level as possible. I don't know the cutoff where sound becomes non-directional, all I know is that subs are supposed to be "hidden", in that you can't or shouldn't be able to tell where they are in a room.

Bass becomes directional past 80Hz. Depending on the room, it can be anywhere from 60-80Hz, but 80Hz is the generalized spot for directional sound. This is why proper THX Certification requires an 80Hz crossover point between the subwoofer and fronts.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud* 
You are correct on one thing, the tweeters are DEFINITELY very directional. So they should be pointed towards his ears for best sound. As to your directional bass question, see below.

Bass becomes directional past 80Hz. Depending on the room, it can be anywhere from 60-80Hz, but 80Hz is the generalized spot for directional sound. This is why proper THX Certification requires an 80Hz crossover point between the subwoofer and fronts.

yeah makes sense to me









btw you can add in some advent towers for me. i resurrounded one of them and replaced the other's woofer entirely.

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/6536/hpim8594.jpg

what my desk used to look like, much cleaner than now. i apologize but having a full time job and no shop area and being 19, no time to keep tidy if im to mess with my hobby.

you can see my NAD T751 in that pic though. it started buzzing and my friends dad is going to help me fix it, in the mean time i have the most ghetto receiver possible.










there is the advent i re surrounded. its on top of the sealed sub. its just a garbage rockford fosgate punch 400 watt rms sub driver in a sealed mtx box, but these advents only go down to about 45 htz. the sub will do 28.

actually the BIGGEST reason i have a sub hooked up is because the ampification only provides 7 watts for the left and right. its not enough to get good bass out of it. the sub is going from 40 htz-400 prolly so i might wanna switch to my ohm spaker for the x540 sub. it will provide better response to that kind of power and setup than this **** rockford fosgate driver imo










this is my garbage receiver im using til my NAD actual hifi one gets fixed. its an logitech x540 amplification circuit board. the rca jacks are the left and right channels. the blue wires is where the xbox power supply is inverting 12 volts to the circuit board at 203 watts of possible draw power. the sub is powered by the wires that would normally go to the x540 sub voice coil. the x540 is amplifying everythign atm and it actually sounds about 50 times bwetter than the original logitech system. i heard theswe advents on my friend's sherwood 5.1 receiver and they sound just as good as his PSB image 4t towers.










those are the psb image 4t's. keep in mind i said the advents were driven by THE SAME RECEIVER AS HIS PSB'S ARE. i am NOT claiming this garbage x540 makes them sound that good, becase it sounds like garbage compaired to the sherwood receiver.

now... as for when i get quality amplification... the answer to that is my receiver will get fixed. its an NAD which aparently is quality. some people on here bashed me for it and said it was garbage though. it will be having pre out to a quad model 405 amplifier.



















my friends dad will be helping me build a 100 wat a channel 5 channel quad amplifier405 amplifier in a big 19 inch rackmount enclosure. he has alot of extra 405 amp parts. there will be 3 transformers: one for the center, one for the left and right, one for the rears. im not joking about that btw.

so basically that amp will last me a LOOONGGGG time. aparently its a good amp even though audiophiles take solid state amps as garbage.

btw do you know of a 19 inch wide, maybe 6 inches tall, 15 or more deep quality looking amplifier type case that i can buy for cheep? i'd like brushed aluminum.


----------



## Dirtyworks

I have Canton XXL Plus' with a Sub 10, being powered by a Harman Kardon 3490 amp.
I'll try to post pics soon :]


----------



## Little Overclocker/Gamer

Hey guys. I have a quick question. Are Aperion Audio's Satellite 4B and 8A Subwoofer any good? I was thinking about getting some.

Edit - Only problem is that i have to set them up in the basement but I'll see if I can move my computer somewhere else. My basement tends to have echoing affects a lot because it's kind of big.


----------



## gorb

for $320 there are better subwoofer options, but there's nothing particularly wrong about them. aperion offers a 30 day trial where they pay shipping both ways, so if you are unsatisfied you can always return them.


----------



## Little Overclocker/Gamer

Quote:


Originally Posted by *gorb* 
for $320 there are better subwoofer options, but there's nothing particularly wrong about them. aperion offers a 30 day trial where they pay shipping both ways, so if you are unsatisfied you can always return them.

OK. Thanks.


----------



## redsun

Quote:


Originally Posted by *eureka* 
http://blog.audiovideointeriors.com/208great/

Check this out.

that's just ridiculous.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *redsun*


that's just ridiculous.


I dont care for people with that much disposable income.


----------



## Midnite8

Add meh 2 teeh club pwease. BX8a+SBX10 lol. I live in an apartment


----------



## Little Overclocker/Gamer

Cool. It's a little on the messy side though.


----------



## coreyL

somone tell me: did i waste $190 on my bxa5's?


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
somone tell me: did i waste $190 on my bxa5's?



















Indeed you did. They cost $130 on ebay.


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Midnite8* 
Add meh 2 teeh club pwease. BX8a+SBX10 lol. I live in an apartment

















Lol, what's the point of getting the sub when you have the BX8a?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FearSC549*


Indeed you did. They cost $130 on ebay.


i'd pay the 60 bucks to ensure the fact that theres nothing wrong with them or not have to pay shipping, instant satisfaction in getting my product, being the first person to unbox these speakers. if it was like 80 bucks, i'd see your point but the shipping would be basically making me save maybe 20 bucks for all that risk and not getting the product for a long time.

on another note, the point of getting his bx10s would be the fact that the bx8a's buttom out under 40 htz which leaves a 20 htz frequency gap in which his ears is missing., more of a frequency gap in which he could feel. the bx10s will make it less hard on the bx8a's on bass heavy songs and sound smoother overall most likely? not sure on that but thats what the company claims

anyway, i would love a bx10s to pair with my bx5a's. these little 5 inch woofers put out huge amounts of sound for their size though, i'm wondering if the bx10s does the same.


----------



## gorb

i want a new sub


----------



## Mygaffer

Count me in. I'll go with my favorite speakers, the Polk Audio Studio Series 2, M4.6


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


Originally Posted by *coreyL* 
i'd pay the 60 bucks to ensure the fact that theres nothing wrong with them or not have to pay shipping, instant satisfaction in getting my product, being the first person to unbox these speakers. if it was like 80 bucks, i'd see your point but the shipping would be basically making me save maybe 20 bucks for all that risk and not getting the product for a long time.

on another note, the point of getting his bx10s would be the fact that the bx8a's buttom out under 40 htz which leaves a 20 htz frequency gap in which his ears is missing., more of a frequency gap in which he could feel. the bx10s will make it less hard on the bx8a's on bass heavy songs and sound smoother overall most likely? not sure on that but thats what the company claims

anyway, i would love a bx10s to pair with my bx5a's. these little 5 inch woofers put out huge amounts of sound for their size though, i'm wondering if the bx10s does the same.

No, you don't understand. There is no point of getting the BX8a when the BX10a can cover the lower 80 hz. The BX8a's extension to 40hz is moot. BX5a would've been a better value.

Some may say say the BX8a can go louder than the BX5a, but these are studio monitors. They're not suppose to go like 120db+


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


Originally Posted by *FearSC549* 
No, you don't understand. There is no point of getting the BX8a when the BX10a can cover the lower 80 hz. The BX8a's extension to 40hz is moot. BX5a would've been a better value.

Some may say say the BX8a can go louder than the BX5a, but these are studio monitors. They're not suppose to go like 120db+

so you're saying there's no point at all in getting a bx8a and the bx5a will do anything the bx8a can do for the intention it was designed for?


----------



## Stupidhatmatt

How is extension to 40hz moot? Are you running a subwoofer?


----------



## Liighthead

*crys* my sub is at my dads :/ gotta use some 3" sub :/


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11649232*
> *crys* my sub is at my dads :/ gotta use some 3" sub :/


You can't really call a 3" driver a sub, the mid drivers on my speakers are 6.5"


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tUDJ;11653713*
> You can't really call a 3" driver a sub, the mid drivers on my speakers are 6.5"


haha yeah.. 2" mid things on the voice channel ( 7w ea







)
3" "sub" thing in the box :/ and yeh i got 8" and 6.5" mids somewhere.. gotta make some room forem lol


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11653772*
> haha yeah.. 2" mid things on the voice channel ( 7w ea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 3" "sub" thing in the box :/ and yeh i got 8" and 6.5" mids somewhere.. gotta make some room forem lol


Lol, yea most 'subs' from pc speakers/htib are a pathetic embarrassment to any real subwoofer. It's just marketing. They're really just glorified midbasses stuck in a box on the floor. Pathetic excuse for a woofer. The only reason you should need a sub is if the woofer isn't doing it's job (i.e. extending low enough). Unfortunately, in most of those systems there is no woofer, so you have essentially mids crossed over to a single woofer that is probably shoved into a corner somewhere where it can bleed distortion into the entire room.

Oh well, at least more people will buy it for the 'sub'/x.1 so the manufacturer only has to pay for one woofer







.


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;11653849*
> Lol, yea most 'subs' from pc speakers/htib are a pathetic embarrassment to any real subwoofer. It's just marketing. They're really just glorified midbasses stuck in a box on the floor. Pathetic excuse for a woofer. The only reason you should need a sub is if the woofer isn't doing it's job (i.e. extending low enough). Unfortunately, in most of those systems there is no woofer, so you have essentially mids crossed over to a single woofer that is probably shoved into a corner somewhere where it can bleed distortion into the entire room.
> 
> Oh well, at least more people will buy it for the 'sub'/x.1 so the manufacturer only has to pay for one woofer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


haha yeah ik.. i got a 12" and 2 10" subs in the shed.. just no amp forem :/


----------



## Mygaffer

I'm in with my new speakers, the Cambridge Soundworks Tower II speakers.









I love these speakers. Thanks Mr. Kloss.


----------



## Liighthead

niceeee! those 10" mids? =D


----------



## Boyboyd

You can change my entry if you like. I had to surrender the Kef Q-compacts









but i did get a pair of Kef Q4s in return. and i'm very very pleased with them so far.


----------



## TUDJ

Is the speaker on the right leaning over to the left a lot or is that just an illusion because of the wall behind? Nice setup though


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11655592*
> niceeee! those 10" mids? =D











mind adding me for bx5a's as well?

there's almost no need for a sub with those insane things. maybe unless the sub goes down to 15 htz or less with enough umph to make you feel the bass and you listen to alot of dubstep, rofl.

it's amazing what good drivers can do when in the right box. i really want to hear some focals. how much bettwer would 5 inch focal drivers sound better than my bx5a's? because these speakers are damn good and i have only heard two speakers better so far: gallo's and some ATC 5 inch bookshelves which run about 4 grand for the pair, the gallo 3.1's were around the same price most likely.

I have heard krk's, yamaha's and other studio monitor's havent heard the bx8a's yet, but on fidelity imo the bx's win over the others. i'm not judging how punchy or boomy the bass is on them like other *******, but i have only heard those studio monitors out of a garbage macbook. i hooked up my bx5a's to a friend's $1000 musical fidelity cd player and damn, those things have some fidelity.

edit: i was talking about the leaning speaker not needing a sub more than my bx5a's, although for a 5 inch driver, these things have insane bass.


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tUDJ;11666715*
> Is the speaker on the right leaning over to the left a lot or is that just an illusion because of the wall behind? Nice setup though


The right speaker is leaning over. Going to put them on speaker spikes tonight.


----------



## Mygaffer

I stopped at Fry's this morning, listened to some computer speakers they had on the floor. Wow, they sucked so hard. Some were expensive too, well over $100. The only set they had out that sounded ok were a pair of Hercules XPS 60. They don't compare to a set of hifi, full range speakers of course but they were bad, less noise than the other sets and less distortion at higher volumes. 
Might be worth looking into for people considering a pair of computer speakers, of course I can't condone that in this thread


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer;11672559*
> I stopped at Fry's this morning, listened to some computer speakers they had on the floor. Wow, the sucked so hard. Some were expensive too, well over $100. The only set they had out that sounded ok were a pair of Hercules XPS 60. They don't compare to a set of hifi, full range speakers of course but they were bad, less noise than the other sets and less distortion at higher volumes.
> Might be worth looking into for people considering a pair of computer speakers, of course I can't condone that in this thread


computer speakers = can't afford real speakers










Not to sound elitist or anything, heck I got my speakers for free, but computer speakers are terrible. I'll have to show some proof sometime, it's ridiculous.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;11677562*
> computer speakers = can't afford real speakers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not to sound elitist or anything, heck I got my speakers for free, but computer speakers are terrible. I'll have to show some proof sometime, it's ridiculous.


audioengine 5's

my bx5a's.

what were you saying?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11678304*
> audioengine 5's
> 
> my bx5a's.
> 
> what were you saying?


Those are closer to studio monitors than computer speakers. By computer speakers I mean 2.1 in a box/logitech type of stuff.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;11678481*
> Those are closer to studio monitors than computer speakers. By computer speakers I mean 2.1 in a box/logitech type of stuff.


well yeah, everything logitech makes is garbage speaker wise. their sub drivers are garbage, their high end sat satellite drivers themselves aren't terrible, but the enclosures are and there are MUCH better drivers available.

here are some huge fatal flaws in the "all in one logitech like systems" imo, and bose is included.

basically, their satellite drivers arent big enough, or don't have nearly enough exursion to push the air required to go below 80 htz, and that is a huge requirement for me. i need my satelite speakers to bottom out below 80 htz to make my sub completely non directional.

another problem is the ampllification. not only are the circuit boards garbage class d amplification, the transformers are terrible and every other amplification part. the capacitors are garbage as well, every part they use is sub par and the cheapest they can find.

they are made out of cheap housing which resonate badly at certain frequencies. the MDF isnt nearly thick enough if they even USE MDF, the plastic will vibrate more often than not. thewiring inside the housing is terrible little ipod headphone wires half the time instead of good 12 guage wiring. the crossovers are usually terribly designed in most systems that are two way and don't work very well, the caps and coils they use are garbage. when they are full rage drivers, they have a 4 inch sub in a huge box which could be bandpassed which is worse than a sealed box for flat frequency response. basically they will use garbage little tingy 2 inch drivers for satellite speakers that aparently produce from 120 htz- 20,000 htz, with huge ammounts of distortion, incredibly low SPL db ratings, and they just sound bad, not to mention the bass ends up being terrible because the sub can always be located, it will always be too punchy, boomy, or muddy. even on the z5500 which has THOUSANDS of 5 star reviews by customers, the bass is TERRIBLE, the mids and trebble are GARBAGE. i own some z5500 drivers i got for free, ive heard the sub. it is terrible. i'd literally take my bx5a's over a z5550 set ANY DAY, but the average person would throw these bookshelves out the window for the z5500 any second because they love boomy ghetto rap bass i guess.

oh and their drivers are always the cheapest possible driver they can find where the average ****** won't notice the difference. their tweeters are made of garbage plastic domes more often than not, either silk dome, panasonic tweeters, good supertweeters, ribbon tweeters, or beryllium tweeters are the way to go imo.

so basically in a nutshell, good quality carbon fibre or ceramic woofers with good motors, great surrounds with awesome exursion which makes the speaker sound just punchy enough, detailed, sharp, and clear will rape any garbage home theater in a box, basides MAYBE gallo or orb audio in some cases.

i'm done my ******ed rant now, hopefully less people will have bought garbage speakers or something out of this.

on a side note, i heard my friend's jmlab microutopia's today. they rape any speakers iv'e ever heard as of yet. second on the qaulity list are some ATC speakers iv'e heard, third is gallo 3.1 system, 4th would actually be my bx5a's because i have no IDEA where the HELL to actually AUDITION....GOOOD quality speakers. iv'e never even heard a klipsch speaker aside from some herresey's one time, not on music it was used for sound effects.


----------



## Mygaffer

I want to give a shout out to a pair of Polk Audio Monitor Series 2 M4.6 speakers I have. They were made in 1990, are small ported cabinets with a single 6&1/2" driver with a soft dome tweeter, and they sound amazing. Great, clear and detailed sound stage, very clean sound, they are easy to drive and can get loud if needed.
Needless to say they have no low end and need to be paired with a sub for even music listening but really a high quality sound from these speakers.








Originally retailed for $149.95, which is just over $250 in 2010 dollars, I bought these for $12 for the pair at Salvation Army. I was using them as my mains until I got my floor standers. I will probably be using them as my surrounds now, as soon as I get some stands.


----------



## jarble

back from the dead will work on the list in the upcoming week and try and stay on here a bit more


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble;11707628*
> back from the dead will work on the list in the upcoming week and try and stay on here a bit more


hehe, mind adding my advent prodigy 2 towers and my bx5a's?


----------



## Mygaffer

I wish this thread were more active.

So Corey, what other speakers have you used besides your M-Audio BX5a?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer;11733888*
> I wish this thread were more active.
> 
> So Corey, what other speakers have you used besides your M-Audio BX5a?


Numerous ghetto sound setups. I've had a logitech x540 andz5500 before I got into audio like I am now. I've used kenwood 4 inch bookshelves which had what looked like pioneer drivers and tweeters that look like the old lanasonic tweeters with a gallo nucleus center until I built an enclosure for some 6.5 inch Polk drivers. My sub was a 12 inch Rockford fosgate dual subs 400 watts rme each in a pro bend bandpass box. I then put one of the Rockford drivers in a sealed box got the advent prodigy II towers, an ohm class e center channel, that sealed 12 inch Rockford fosgate sub, then I got the bx5as in stereo while I fiddle with my NAD t751 receiver

My friends dad is going to sell me a velodyne uld 18 sub and p
For $200. Aparently to the spec sheet, it bottoms out at 13 htz. In 1988 it coated $2500 bucks. It used to be the driver he tested to calibrate the other velodynes. They are servos, floor firing subs. Velodyne says thy can bust out 20 htz at 120 db SPL with under 3% distortion.


----------



## groundzero9

My first pair of real speakers:










GR Research V-2s self built


----------



## SlyFox

OMG







Build me some... please.

Really nice work they look beautifull.


----------



## soloz2

those look good!


----------



## coreyL

my computer is hooked up through my auzentech xfi home theater hd via digital coax to my NAD T751 receiver. i have m audio bx5a's hooked up to the NAD pre outs with home made XRL cables. my sub is a velodyne ULD 18. i'm so happy i got this sub for $200. it's literally the best sounding sub iv'e ever heard. it's not punchy at all, but it has the best sound quality iv'e ever heard out of a sub. i no longer doubt velodyne's claimes of 104 db at 20 htz with 0.5% distortion on this 18 inch sub. the enclosure is 5.7 cubic feet lol.


----------



## TUDJ

and I thought my room was too small for a sub









I feel sorry for anyone else in the house/surrounding houses lol


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tUDJ;11753636*
> and I thought my room was too small for a sub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel sorry for anyone else in the house/surrounding houses lol


I have 2 18s in my 300sf studio lol I install my basstraps and bafules this week so








but i did tune the room for a even response curve so i dont push the 18s that much
That room is small though i would have found better placement i hate wasting space.

And those V-2s you guys got those bottom drivers are Eminence right?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tUDJ;11753636*
> and I thought my room was too small for a sub
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel sorry for anyone else in the house/surrounding houses lol


by the way, Velodyne's old service center used that exact sub, the physical box you see in the pictures, the one in my room lol, to spec every other uld 18 and calibrate them to the it's spec. i thought that was cool.










btw is my room small enough? and is my dog evil enough?


----------



## groundzero9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthspartan;11753799*
> And those V-2s you guys got those bottom drivers are Eminence right?


Yeah, Eminence 12"


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *groundzero9;11755373*
> Yeah, Eminence 12"


Ya thats what my carvin PA is loaded with. There ok i still prefer JBL.


----------



## coreyL

holy crap. i thought my sub broke for a while. the servo circuit was going nuts. my friend was trying to murder it with dubstep high bass full blast, it was popping i THINK it was turning on and off due to the servo. when too much distortion happens, it applies a brake and turns it off to preserve the voice coil and speaker integrity. theres a buzz on my receiver when turned up loud.i need to get that fixed but i think it's messing with my servo circuit this funny thing is ive heard 10 inch subs that had more punch to them than this uld 18. but you can still really feel it. it's weird. the sound is so clean that it's almost not even like a subwoofer to me. it has 90 times less distortion than my old sub. this thing is nuts, but turned way up, for some reason my house starts falling apart but its still not felt as much as some garbage 10 inch subs from best buy which is weird.


----------



## darthspartan

You probably loss some of that punch to standing waves in the room thats why im putting in bass traps and baffles.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthspartan;11757414*
> You probably loss some of that punch to standing waves in the room thats why im putting in bass traps and baffles.


yeah dude this thing moves my walls like no other, it's weird ow it does that but it doesnt hit me very hard lol, none the less, it is some serious quality bass. i'm suprised my bx5a's can keep up :O


----------



## Mygaffer

Awesome sub Corey, nice pick up. I've got a list of upgrades and sub is on that list, but its after a new amp and power conditioner.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mygaffer*


Awesome sub Corey, nice pick up. I've got a list of upgrades and sub is on that list, but its after a new amp and power conditioner.


Thanks dude. It's funny, a year ago I thought my Rockford fosgates in my pro bend bandpass were the best thing ever because it was moving my walls. Then as I started getting into audio for real, I started realizing how much garbage they were. They were terribly muddy and did nothing but SPL. The only thing that used to matter to me was SPL. The thing that matters to me now is keeping a decent SPL while maintaining the lowest distortion possible. And that's why I don't think I'll ever need to upgrade my sub again. It's just as good as the velodyne dd 18. 0.5% distortion at 20 htz with 104 db is insane. It has about 90 times less distortion than my old Rockford fosgates.


----------



## computeruler

Just wait till I build my sub. I'll probably crack dry wall, get the police called on me, ect.


----------



## Shiveron

Think I can join this club now. BX5A's.

<3 them so far. I really want a level pilot to help keep them at the same volume though. It's eerily noticeable when they're uneven but near impossible for me to get just right.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *computeruler;11761697*
> Just wait till I build my sub. I'll probably crack dry wall, get the police called on me, ect.


As long as you have under 1% distortion in doing so


----------



## computeruler

Well this thing is supposed to really loud with no distortion so it should be


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *computeruler;11762358*
> Well this thing is supposed to get really loud with no distortion so it should be


lol mind linking your driver and amp then?


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiveron;11761722*
> Think I can join this club now. BX5A's.
> 
> <3 them so far. I really want a level pilot to help keep them at the same volume though. It's eerily noticeable when they're uneven but near impossible for me to get just right.


That can be a problem with active speakers.


----------



## Th0m0_202

sup ppls of ocn's speaker world! i have pioneer cs-2100-x right now with a really really crappy sub/amp thing







very overwhelmingly powered. (35w total...) so! im gonna go and get a new amp 1 week from wensday







so happy!

i got 2/3 choices i spose








1: https://shop.1wow.com.au/productcart/pc/KENWOOD-5-1-CHANNEL-AMPLIFIER-WITH--101p12713.htm
2: https://shop.1wow.com.au/productcart/pc/KENWOOD-5-1-CHANNEL-AMPLIFIER-WITH--101p12714.htm
3:https://shop.1wow.com.au/productcart/pc/PIONEER-5-1CH-3D-READY--101p12487.htm

what should i get? not fussed about hdmi on the pioneer tho. optical is fine


----------



## SUPER PISSED

I like the Pioneer


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th0m0_202;11779142*
> sup ppls of ocn's speaker world! i have pioneer cs-2100-x right now with a really really crappy sub/amp thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very overwhelmingly powered. (35w total...) so! im gonna go and get a new amp 1 week from wensday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so happy!
> 
> i got 2/3 choices i spose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1: https://shop.1wow.com.au/productcart/pc/KENWOOD-5-1-CHANNEL-AMPLIFIER-WITH--101p12713.htm
> 2: https://shop.1wow.com.au/productcart/pc/KENWOOD-5-1-CHANNEL-AMPLIFIER-WITH--101p12714.htm
> 3:https://shop.1wow.com.au/productcart/pc/PIONEER-5-1CH-3D-READY--101p12487.htm
> 
> what should i get? not fussed about hdmi on the pioneer tho. optical is fine


i'd go for a denon, sherwood % newcastle, or NAD if you can get one in that price range.


----------



## Th0m0_202

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11780085*
> i'd go for a denon, sherwood % newcastle, or NAD if you can get one in that price range.


i would of been able to get a sherwood a while ago. now im not sure. i would have to go into the store. but no denon nad at that store..


----------



## jarble

list updated to page 53


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble;11793454*
> list updated to page 53


can you update mine to:

Auzentech xfi home theater hd > NAD T751 > bx5a's > velodyne ULD18 powered by a class b velodyne servo controller.

this setup rips my old one into shreds.


----------



## Tehrawk

Got around to uploading some pics of my speakers.

Monitor Audio BX2 5.1. Made meter high stands for the left and right speakers. Rears are hung from the ceiling.



















Still not used to the fidelity. Its always such a pleasant surprise when I can get to crank them.


----------



## Boyboyd

Your setup looks amazing.

Do you have any wider photos of your room?


----------



## Mygaffer

+Tehrawk, looks awesome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble;11793454*
> list updated to page 53


Oh man, you were behind! Well good work and thanks, still waiting for you to catch up to me!


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tehrawk;11804060*
> Got around to uploading some pics of my speakers.
> 
> Monitor Audio BX2 5.1. Made meter high stands for the left and right speakers. Rears are hung from the ceiling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still not used to the fidelity. Its always such a pleasant surprise when I can get to crank them.


You realize that especially with a center channel, your tweeter needs tombs at ear level for optimal listening, right? Nice looking sub btw what is it, and would it stack up against my velodyne ULD 18?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11808450*
> You realize that especially with a center channel, your tweeter needs tombs at ear level for optimal listening, right? Nice looking sub btw what is it, and would it stack up against my velodyne ULD 18?


Umm, what sub? There's no subwoofer in those pictures, and he didn't mention one either.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Umm, what sub? There's no subwoofer in those pictures, and he didn't mention one either.


The floating speaker? I see no tweeter and a huge looking porthole. This indicates use of mostly low frequencies to me and makes me think it's a sub.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


The floating speaker? I see no tweeter and a huge looking porthole. This indicates use of mostly low frequencies to me and makes me think it's a sub.


He stated directly that those are his rears. And I don't see a port hole, those look like tweeters to me.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11812628*
> He stated directly that those are his rears. And I don't see a port hole, those look like tweeters to me.


Lol im on my iPhone, Internet is down, but why the he'll would you put the tweeter on a different side of the cabinet than the main woofer? The woofer will need to go

Lol the woofer needs to replicate sounds at least up to 2000Hz. That makes the sound VERY directional. Any bass which is non directional will be all heard mostly from the sub, meaning those surrounds have 2,000 or more Hz to 20,000Hz playing in a completely different direction than probably 100 hz- 2000Hz. I'd understand if there were a woofer and tweeter on on face, then woofers on other faces, but that makes no sense to me.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11813932*
> Lol im on my iPhone, Internet is down, but why the he'll would you put the tweeter on a different side of the cabinet than the main woofer? The woofer will need to go
> 
> Lol the woofer needs to replicate sounds at least up to 2000Hz. That makes the sound VERY directional. Any bass which is non directional will be all heard mostly from the sub, meaning those surrounds have 2,000 or more Hz to 20,000Hz playing in a completely different direction than probably 100 hz- 2000Hz. I'd understand if there were a woofer and tweeter on on face, then woofers on other faces, but that makes no sense to me.


Lol you're simplifying things way too much. Besides, there are two tweeters http://www.monitoraudio.co.uk/products/bronze-bx/bxfx/your-speaker.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11813932*
> Lol im on my iPhone, Internet is down, but why the he'll would you put the tweeter on a different side of the cabinet than the main woofer? The woofer will need to go
> 
> Lol the woofer needs to replicate sounds at least up to 2000Hz. That makes the sound VERY directional. Any bass which is non directional will be all heard mostly from the sub, meaning those surrounds have 2,000 or more Hz to 20,000Hz playing in a completely different direction than probably 100 hz- 2000Hz. I'd understand if there were a woofer and tweeter on on face, then woofers on other faces, but that makes no sense to me.


You still have a lot of reading to do my friend







. Woofers are directional, sure. Anything above 60-80Hz is directional. But you can have your woofer facing one direction, and the tweeter facing the other. As long as the tweeter is at ear level and pointing towards your ears, that's usually all that matters







.


----------



## Tehrawk

My front tweaters are at ear level. I am lanky and sit pretty high. My rears are bipole/dipole, the tweaters are positioned on these speakers to make use of that. From what I have read, your rear tweaters should be up to two feet above your front tweaters, as this creates a more diffuse sound. If you have them at ear level, it creates a more direct sound from the rear channel which is not ideal.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;11804564*
> Your setup looks amazing.
> 
> Do you have any wider photos of your room?


Here ya go, sorry about the pic quality, I was curious about HDR.. Also damn it, I added a rake of toilet rolls, as someone commented on it from my first pic. But the post is now gone.


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11812543*
> The floating speaker? I see no tweeter and a huge looking porthole. This indicates use of mostly low frequencies to me and makes me think it's a sub.


This may have been answered, those are dipolar surround speakers.


----------



## Th0m0_202

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tehrawk*


My front tweaters are at ear level. I am lanky and sit pretty high. My rears are bipole/dipole, the tweaters are positioned on these speakers to make use of that. From what I have read, your rear tweaters should be up to two feet above your front tweaters, as this creates a more diffuse sound. If you have them at ear level, it creates a more direct sound from the rear channel which is not ideal.

Here ya go, sorry about the pic quality, I was curious about HDR.. Also damn it, I added a rake of toilet rolls, as someone commented on it from my first pic. But the post is now gone.











lol why are there toilet rolls? and nice system btw. makes me sad i only have 2.0







not aloud a sub any more.... police had a visit more than once about it. (and its only the sub from a z2300 lol) trying to get rid of it.


----------



## Tehrawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Th0m0_202*


lol why are there toilet rolls? and nice system btw. makes me sad i only have 2.0







not aloud a sub any more.... police had a visit more than once about it. (and its only the sub from a z2300 lol) trying to get rid of it.


Someone made a comment about there being toilet roll in my first picture. So rather than take it out for the wider pic, I just added more. The comment has since been deleted/edited, so I look like an idiot now. But I'm too lazy to take another pic.

An added benefit of these speakers I got, that I really didn't expect. Is I can have them a lot louder than my old Creative speakers, and yet they are quieter downstairs.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

I responded to that one too and it got deleted as well. Oh well.


----------



## coreyL

Seems like those speakers are too big for a room that size lol. Why are the rear speakers so big as well?

And other guy, how do you have noise complaints from a crappy logitech 30 wAtt sub? Lol


----------



## Tehrawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11842828*
> Seems like those speakers are too big for a room that size lol.


They are not much bigger than most bookshelf speakers. They just have an added sub on them. Besides I will probably be moving my computer to a much larger area, and adding a projector.
Quote:


> Why are the rear speakers so big as well?


They are not particularly massive. That is perspective my good fellow :O)










Probably not exactly to scale, but its pretty close.


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11842828*
> Seems like those speakers are too big for a room that size lol. Why are the rear speakers so big as well?
> 
> And other guy, how do you have noise complaints from a crappy logitech 30 wAtt sub? Lol


Naw, they are just fine for that space.

The noise complaint thing, he must live in a crappy apartment with paper thin walls.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

lol Reminded me of when I got my Cerwin Vega's. I was breakin 'em in (was Busta Rymes or something just as obnoxious) and the super came down from the second floor saying she could hear it in her apt. lawl. Think I was in apt 105 and she was around 215. Went in the hall, up the stairwell, down that hall into her apt.


----------



## Liighthead

mad setup









and super. i saw 2 cerwin vega 15" ( 2 x 15" in each tower ) + rear about 6" cerwins
and a amp ( not sure of specs... ) 
but then saw the price! $5,400 D:

but dam they must kick.

oh n next to it they had a 21" cerwin subwoofer dam that thing is big hahaha

grr i gotta setup my speakers again. got almost no room atm :/ haha my budget crap xD


----------



## Stupidhatmatt

There's my setup, Mythos STS


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Darkapoc

2 lepai ta2020 amps
2 Powerbass Extreme 6.5 marine
1 Blitz High/Low pass filter
1 15" Kicker cvr (6cubic foot tuned at 27hz, movies)
1 Cerwin vega 124 (3.4 cubic foot tuned at 34hz, Music)








Under my desk.








Filter I'm using.








Hooked to the white speakers infinite baffled.


----------



## coreyL

Does anyone know how a velodyne uld 18 power servo controller works and the servo circuit attached to the woofer's accelerometer?

I have no idea what the hell is wrong with my servo. My car amp inverted by an xbox power supply works fine, so it can't be the actual woofer. It has to be my velodyne class b 400 watt servo controller orthe servo circuit in the actual sub. How do I trick the velodyne amp in thinking that there is no servo so it can work without the servo?


----------



## koven

fritz carbon 7's in mahogany

best speakers ive ever had under $4k, and i've owned/heard a lot (B&W, Totem, Usher, Magnepan, Dynaudio, ProAc, etc.)

and these only run for $1750

amazing. where have you been all my life fritz?!

some reviews if people are interested:

http://www.sonicflare.com/archives/fritz-carbon-7-loudspeaker-review.php

http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue50/fritz.htm

Fritz will be at CES this weekend


----------



## gorb

Nice looking speakers. I don't consider those reviews as reviews though :/


----------



## koven

i usually take audio reviews with a grain of salt too, but listening to these in my room, and reading the sonicflare review, i can say that he's spot on in his description of the carbon 7's

places like sixmoons or stereophile... those bigger magazine/reviewers, i wouldnt trust them, you know they get paid to say good things

but there's some smaller sites that are more trustworthy/honest imo, and sonicflar/positive-feedback are what i consider one of the "good guys"


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11880650*
> Does anyone know how a velodyne uld 18 power servo controller works and the servo circuit attached to the woofer's accelerometer?
> 
> I have no idea what the hell is wrong with my servo. My car amp inverted by an xbox power supply works fine, so it can't be the actual woofer. It has to be my velodyne class b 400 watt servo controller orthe servo circuit in the actual sub. How do I trick the velodyne amp in thinking that there is no servo so it can work without the servo?


Did you say the unit had been refurbed? Can you ask the person you bought it from what is up with the unit?


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11878589*
> -snip-


how are u powering those amps?

Nice setup btw


----------



## Darkapoc

Both run off of seperate 2 amp 12volt supplies, need to replace with somethign about 4 amps on the one running my bass.),
and a 12 volt 1 amp for the filter.


----------



## AlanScott

can I join?

my current setup

custom cabinets, tmm setup using focal woofers and morel tweeters


----------



## Emerican

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlanScott;11903296*
> can I join?
> 
> my current setup
> 
> custom cabinets, tmm setup using focal woofers and morel tweeters
> 
> http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/7411/speakerfinal2.jpg


Really nice setup man.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlanScott;11903296*
> can I join?
> 
> my current setup
> 
> custom cabinets, tmm setup using focal woofers and morel tweeters


i usually don't see focal propelyne cones. usually i see some sort of paper material or carbon fiber.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer;11896578*
> Did you say the unit had been refurbed? Can you ask the person you bought it from what is up with the unit?


this unit was refurbished. the woofer was re surrounded and tested by the guy who used to work as velodyne's old service center when they had the uld 18 in service. he knows what hes doing. i saw him test it myself. i heard it start to mess up his house. it got so loud that things over 20 feet away were shaking pretty bad everywhere, yet i cant usually got even 1/5 that level and it pops out.

he told me its not my receiver. the servo doesn't work properly anymore. i know this because if i tap the woofer, it doesn't sound as hollow and it doesn't wobble back in place like it used to. i don't know if its the servo circuit or the accelerometer on the woofer, or the amp itself, but if the servo cord moves, the woofer will start to excursion itself about an inch out then pop for no a apparent reason. it seems to do this on really high levels. i don't know if thats because the high amount of bass actually moves the servo cable or because its popping from being driven weird.

i think i might just save up for a TC sounds LMS ultra 18 inch neo motor sub or the lms ultra dvc which has a 40 pound motor if the neo one cant keep up. but apparently the lms ultra 18 inch dvc can push out 110 db at 20 htz with 0.4-0.7% distortion. mine is rated at 104db with 0.5% distortion, the tc sounds can take 2000 watts up the ass though, mine would get raped with more than 400 watts. the lms ultra can take up to 8,000 watts peak which i will never use. i'm thinking ill end up using about 800 watts with it and rebuild my velodyne sub box with a plate amp. it's a 6.7 cu ft box. i'm hoping it will work with the lms ultra driver as well as my velodyne driver.

anyway... not sure what the hell is wrong with my sub, but for $200 i can't complain either way. i can get good sound levels out of it right now anyway, i just can't push it to the point of where my windows start rattling.


----------



## Darkapoc

Those lms ultras are pure sex I LOVE THEM, You have room for a 10 cubic foot box? Just saying It's what I'd put it in. XD
Good luck with 800 watts too xD I run my cvr 15 with less than 100 watts usually and have the neighbors call the cops.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11906499*
> Those lms ultras are pure sex I LOVE THEM, You have room for a 10 cubic foot box? Just saying It's what I'd put it in. XD
> Good luck with 800 watts too xD I run my cvr 15 with less than 100 watts usually and have the neighbors call the cops.


I doubt I'd ever USE all the 800 watts out of it, but you think i could still go as low as 13 htz on that LMS ultra driver in this same velodyne ULD 18 box? my velodyne goes as low as 13 htz, somone else said the LMS can goe as low as 8htz, but would it sound as good as my velodyne in the same box?

thing is, with 800 watts, i KNOW i'd never NEVER damage my sub, i might go up to 1000 watts on the amp itself. the reason is, many of my friends have parties and would need a sub like that. i would like the ability to completely rape face in a huge 2,000 sq ft area or more where all the bass i sfelt if i wanted, while still keeping amazing under 1% distortion at 20 htz for my own use. i'd barely even push that sub for my own listening, but i'd definately end up bringing it to some parties







i have multiple friends that DJ.


----------



## Darkapoc

You could try your hand at a horn designed box if you want to COMPLETELY wreck the party. xD

But yeah I think 8 hz might be stretching slightly, not doubting you'd be able to hear it but it wouldn't be IN YOUR FACE, my 15 goes down to about 14 and 10 hz and I can still hear it pretty loudly. so as long as the box is designed properly I don't see why not.

You have a mock up of the box you're using I can print up a quick run through with BB6pro


----------



## rrims

Can i join?










The AAL's are my B stereo speakers. I got them for free, i refurbished them myself. I redid the suspension on the woofers, i re-foamed the woofer surrounds, and also painted them gloss black and redid the grills. I'm very pleased with how the turned out and sound. The small speakers on top are some simple, but nice Pioneer's that are my main left and rights, because i rarely turn the AAL's on unless i want to really feel the movie pounding away. The sub is a vidsonix 10" sub. Center is a Polk Audio RC8 (was looking for a speaker with mostly high's since i have other speakers/sub to handle the lows/mids). My surrounds (not pictured) are also Polk R8's. Receiver is a Denon AVR 1508.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11907321*
> You could try your hand at a horn designed box if you want to COMPLETELY wreck the party. xD
> 
> But yeah I think 8 hz might be stretching slightly, not doubting you'd be able to hear it but it wouldn't be IN YOUR FACE, my 15 goes down to about 14 and 10 hz and I can still hear it pretty loudly. so as long as the box is designed properly I don't see why not.
> 
> You have a mock up of the box you're using I can print up a quick run through with BB6pro


Well, all I know is my velodyne box is 5.7 cubic feet. My velodyne can put out 120 db at 20 htz with under 3% THD. At 104 db, 20 htz, it has 0.5% distortion. When my sub works like it's supposed to, it's the best sounding sub I've ever heard. My question is: in my velodyne uld 18 box, will the lms ultra sound nearly as good with the same wattage? I can actually easily go plate amp and use my existing terminal plates and just modify my velodyne 400 watt class b servo amifier in thinking there is no servo circuit. That would save me hundreds of dollars.

Yourthougts? WOULD the tc sounds lms ultra 18" dvc keep up to my uld 18 in the same box?

Also, would the neohydinium version of the lms ultra beat out the lms ultra?


----------



## Darkapoc

The neo mags are really just there to lighten the loads of them, or atleast that's what I've come to believe I can't tell the difference between the same sub with a ferrite and a neo, so I can't really help you with that decision.

But on the LMS playing up to par with the uld 18 I think it should even surpass it. I wouldnt expect the box that its in currently to hold up too great though.
Also be aware that it will should take more power to get the same levels of volume with a beefier sub, but with the heightened max rms there is much more room to increase beyond that.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11908610*
> The neo mags are really just there to lighten the loads of them, or atleast that's what I've come to believe I can't tell the difference between the same sub with a ferrite and a neo, so I can't really help you with that decision.
> 
> But on the LMS playing up to par with the uld 18 I think it should even surpass it. I wouldnt expect the box that its in currently to hold up too great though.
> Also be aware that it will should take more power to get the same levels of volume with a beefier sub, but with the heightened max rms there is much more room to increase beyond that.


Structurally, I'd expect this box to hold up perfect. I can jump on it if I want. This box alone weighs about 75 pounds in a 5.7 cubic foot box. I'm more concerned about will the lms ultra sound as good or better in the same box, meaning can the driver sound as musical in the same enclosure. I don't plan on keeping the velodyne amp forever, but I I can trick it into thinking there's no servo circuit for a while, I can drive an lms ultra using the same terminal plate on the box. I'm sure 400 watts is more than enough to make an lms ultra rape my house.

So basically, since my velodyne box can easily handle 120 db at 20 htz, can the lms ultra really beat out my velodyne in the same box?


----------



## Darkapoc

It should be able to no problem.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11908918*
> It should be able to no problem.


Nice. Thanks. I'll definitely try to upgrade to an lms ultra driver some time soon. There's no way I'll ever over drive that driver. I'll be refinishing my velodyne box soon anyway.

For $900, I'll make it sound better than a $3000+ sub? I'll take it.

If only my servo worked perfectly


----------



## koven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlanScott;11903296*
> can I join?
> 
> my current setup
> 
> custom cabinets, tmm setup using focal woofers and morel tweeters


very nice


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11908982*
> Nice. Thanks. I'll definitely try to upgrade to an lms ultra driver some time soon. There's no way I'll ever over drive that driver. I'll be refinishing my velodyne box soon anyway.
> 
> For $900, I'll make it sound better than a $3000+ sub? I'll take it.
> 
> If only my servo worked perfectly


If it's a ported box you might want to watch out. If the drivers are too much different you could end up with a huge peak/dip.

Why not just buy some 1" MDF and make your own







. That way you'd still have the velodyne lying around for emergencies







.


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;11909691*
> If it's a ported box you might want to watch out. If the drivers are too much different you could end up with a huge peak/dip.
> 
> Why not just buy some 1" MDF and make your own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That way you'd still have the velodyne lying around for emergencies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


^^^ Not that hard and it's more bragging rights







.

Though I now have a question for some of you more experienced with building custom boxes for highs. For a speaker designed to go down to 60 hz what do you think would be optimal tuning (I have no Thiele/small parameters right now or I would run it through Win Isd or BB6), I am not too familiar with building highs boxes.

I have a 2 inch pvc pipe that is 16 inches in length to port with, and have yet to decide on box design.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


If it's a ported box you might want to watch out. If the drivers are too much different you could end up with a huge peak/dip.

Why not just buy some 1" MDF and make your own







. That way you'd still have the velodyne lying around for emergencies







.


it's a completely sealed box, air tight as can be. the box is about 1 inch thick of MDF, nicely polyfilled and everything.



















thats what the box inside looks like. theres a heavy duty drill inside to use as a scale lol, fell in actually









but yeah, im thinking building a box that good will be a lot of hard work, and the box alone would be worth the $200 i spent, so i'm not bad off anyway, especially if i can get the amp to work well.


----------



## AlanScott

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


i usually don't see focal propelyne cones. usually i see some sort of paper material or carbon fiber.


They are pretty decent drivers for the price. Exact model # is 7C114 S7 I think.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AlanScott*


They are pretty decent drivers for the price. Exact model # is 7C114 S7 I think.


the one time i ever heard focal drivers was in a jmlab micro utopia. it was some type of paper cone, used beryllium tweeters. best pair of speakers ive ever heard, hands down.

then again, i never get to hear good speakers. its impossible to audition hifi speakers in the dc area that i know of anymore.


----------



## AlanScott

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


the one time i ever heard focal drivers was in a jmlab micro utopia. it was some type of paper cone, used beryllium tweeters. best pair of speakers ive ever heard, hands down.

then again, i never get to hear good speakers. its impossible to audition hifi speakers in the dc area that i know of anymore.


yeah the days of high end audio shops seem to be numbered... which is a shame I can read all the reviews I want online but that still doesnt help me decide if I think they will sound good. Which is why I ended up just building my own, cheaper and I got what I wanted.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AlanScott*


yeah the days of high end audio shops seem to be numbered... which is a shame I can read all the reviews I want online but that still doesnt help me decide if I think they will sound good. Which is why I ended up just building my own, cheaper and I got what I wanted.


everyone leads me to believe that building your own takes insane ammounts of research. i have no idea how to find the right coils, capacitors for the right corssovers, how the acoustical properties of the woofer work with what material it's made out of vs what the baffle is made out of, the baffle placement, cubic feet of the box, how much polyfill i'll need, then i need to learn to veneer properly, that doesnt seem easy.

i should probably get a circle jig, and some tools, buy some drivers online at some point. i'll actually try to make some speakers as good as the energy rc 50's im going to hopefully get some time soon.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


everyone leads me to believe that building your own takes insane ammounts of research. i have no idea how to find the right coils, capacitors for the right corssovers, how the acoustical properties of the woofer work with what material it's made out of vs what the baffle is made out of, the baffle placement, cubic feet of the box, how much polyfill i'll need, then i need to learn to veneer properly, that doesnt seem easy.

i should probably get a circle jig, and some tools, buy some drivers online at some point. i'll actually try to make some speakers as good as the energy rc 50's im going to hopefully get some time soon.


it dose take a fair amount of research to make a good sounding speaker. it took me some where around 3 months designing mine. its a piece of cake finding drivers and tweeters and stick them in a box but there are a few more things to look into like baffle diffraction and where to crossover the speakers to get the best out of them. for a first time builder it may be better to go with ether a kit or follows some ones wright up and build a copy.


----------



## Darkapoc

Testing build test destroy, build test destroy. I'm more of a hands on user myself though.


----------



## Liighthead

ahhhh ffs i need a sub... this 3" mid thing in this crap thing is annoying now..

only got a stero amp... ah well better then nothin :/

if i can find a box haha


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;11933162*
> ahhhh ffs i need a sub... this 3" mid thing in this crap thing is annoying now..
> 
> only got a stero amp... ah well better then nothin :/
> 
> if i can find a box haha


Sounds like a logitech sub lol. Even the z2300 and z5500 subs are complete garbage. I've heard them myself. They have distortion up the ass.


----------



## wizek

Can I join if I have a Edifier M1385 speaker?


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11934709*
> Sounds like a logitech sub lol. Even the z2300 and z5500 subs are complete garbage. I've heard them myself. They have distortion up the ass.


ummm nar worse
DSE A2691. 20w 3" woofer thingey....


----------



## spRICE

Are these Polk Audio subs any good on an extreme budget: Polk Audio PSW10 or am I just better off finding something on ebay?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;11945249*
> Are these Polk Audio subs any good on an extreme budget: Polk Audio PSW10 or am I just better off finding something on ebay?


I'd spend a little more and get the Dayton SUB-100 or SUB-120 for a budget sub.


----------



## smwick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *koven;11888415*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fritz carbon 7's in mahogany
> 
> best speakers ive ever had under $4k, and i've owned/heard a lot (B&W, Totem, Usher, Magnepan, Dynaudio, ProAc, etc.)
> 
> and these only run for $1750
> 
> amazing. where have you been all my life fritz?!
> 
> some reviews if people are interested:
> 
> http://www.sonicflare.com/archives/fritz-carbon-7-loudspeaker-review.php
> 
> http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue50/fritz.htm
> 
> Fritz will be at CES this weekend


I'm very interested in the Carbon 7. I saw your very detailed audition of the Carbon 7 with the other speakers at AV review.com site. Did you ever get to hear the Tower version of the Carbon 7? If so how did it compare with the monitors? I'm curious about how the Usher clone woofer sounded. I understand it suppose to be better in the larger cabinet. Also the last post on AVreview.com you had Sonus Faber Grand Piano Home's. How did they compare? Also you mentioned that you were thinking about the Ascend TP-24 pedestal stand. Any thoughts on this stand? It looks to be a good option for the Carbon 7's.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ljason8eg;11945378*
> I'd spend a little more and get the Dayton SUB-100 or SUB-120 for a budget sub.


http://www.bestbuypcs.com/velodyne-dd10-home-theater-subwoofers-best-price.html?___store=default&ovchn=FRO&ovcpn=Froogle&ovcrn=DD10&ovtac=organic

how does that dayton sub stack up compaired to this?

like really, the only subs ive heard are: ghetto rap bass subs, logitech z2300 sub, bose subs, logitech z5500 sub, my rockford fosgate 12" dual subs i gave away, my mtx 12" garbage sub, and my velodyne ULD 18 (same exact acoustical specs as a velodyne DD-18)

so as you can see, all iv'e ever heard was:

garbage, garbage, more garbage, and yet some more garbage

then 2 good subwoofers ever.

you see the problem here? there ARE NO FREAKING PLACES TO AUDITION HIFI AUDIO ANYMORE. its bull crap

so yeah... how do i even know if what i hear is a good sub? do i just compair it to the velodyne DD-10 and DD-18? serious question here, because every other sub i hear now sounds like complete garbage.


----------



## Darkapoc

Play some double bass see how well they keep up play some bass music and then some full range low frequency music and get a feel for how the sub reacts to each condition all of that averaged is how good the sub is.
Audio is all preference though, you could end up liking many different types of subs(which is why I have a plethora of boxes and subs lying around my house.)


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11947050*
> Play some double bass see how well they keep up play some bass music and then some full range low frequency music and get a feel for how the sub reacts to each condition all of that averaged is how good the sub is.
> Audio is all preference though, you could end up liking many different types of subs(which is why I have a plethora of boxes and subs lying around my house.)


Every other sub I've ever heard double bass on aside from the dd10 and uld 18 would gurgle out. I didn't notice it at as much the time, but after getting used to my uld 18, subs like my old Rockford fosgate sound like complete garbage now. Funny thing is, I gave my Rockford fosgate in a dual 12 inch pro bend bandpass to my DJ friend for some broken advents I fixed up. He took them to a house party and cranked them up so high that I could literally hear the voice coils rubbing against the motor structure. Everyone at the party though it was the best bass they've ever heard. This is why I can't take other peoples opinions in general 99% of people think a logitech z5500 sub sounds amazing, I've always thought it sounds like garbage.

What I need to do is actually be able to audition subs and drivers. I'd want to stack up polks super high end up against mine against AR, against klipsch, against focal, against gallo, against paradigm, against the maelstrom 18 against the tc sounds against Dayton against BIC america against energy and the list just goes on and on. I know of all these subs on the Internet, I've ne'er heard them with my own ears is the problem.

How am I supposed to know which subs beat out the velodyne dd 18 for if my uld 18 dies on me?


----------



## Darkapoc

Audiophile forums







.
I've gotten most of my experience from installing stereos at the shop.
and fosgate has always had pretty bad SQ elemental designs and aura are pretty decent mid range subs for car audio.

Though I've still yet to try out the titanic mkIII I've heard a LOT of positive feedback from it though.

Most people are just generally idiots when it comes to audio, like those who think dual is a great company.
You tube actually can get you a lot of info about drivers though.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ljason8eg;11945378*
> I'd spend a little more and get the Dayton SUB-100 or SUB-120 for a budget sub.


I'll second this. The Dayton SUB100 and SUB120 are hands down the best subs under $150. If you can afford it, get the 12". If you can't, get the 10". Those PSW10's are honestly pretty trashy. They're okay. Definitely a step up from Logicrap...but they're FAR from being decent.

The Dayton subs are definitely GREAT budget subwoofers though, and you won't go wrong picking one up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11946836*
> http://www.bestbuypcs.com/velodyne-dd10-home-theater-subwoofers-best-price.html?___store=default&ovchn=FRO&ovcpn=Froogle&ovcrn=DD10&ovtac=organic
> 
> how does that dayton sub stack up compaired to this?
> 
> like really, the only subs ive heard are: ghetto rap bass subs, logitech z2300 sub, bose subs, logitech z5500 sub, my rockford fosgate 12" dual subs i gave away, my mtx 12" garbage sub, and my velodyne ULD 18 (same exact acoustical specs as a velodyne DD-18)
> 
> so as you can see, all iv'e ever heard was:
> 
> garbage, garbage, more garbage, and yet some more garbage
> 
> then 2 good subwoofers ever.
> 
> you see the problem here? there ARE NO FREAKING PLACES TO AUDITION HIFI AUDIO ANYMORE. its bull crap
> 
> so yeah... how do i even know if what i hear is a good sub? do i just compair it to the velodyne DD-10 and DD-18? serious question here, because every other sub i hear now sounds like complete garbage.


All I saw on that long list was garbage. You listed one decent sub, and that's your Velodyne. And even then, it has little to no excursion, so it doesn't have much output for being an 18".

And why would compare a $100 subwoofer to a $2000 subwoofer? Seriously. Apples to oranges much? Velodyne makes great equipment, but they are FAR too obsessed with THD figures, as it appears you are too. You do realize a volume control was invented for a reason







. Turn the volume on the Logicraps down...viola!! No more distortion!!!! Still have crappy sound though.


----------



## Darkapoc

Seriously you guys gotta quit complaining about the tang band subs go buy one they're like 90 dollars and design a GOOD box for it and put a nice amp to it. lol


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11953776*
> I'll second this. The Dayton SUB100 and SUB120 are hands down the best subs under $150. If you can afford it, get the 12". If you can't, get the 10". Those PSW10's are honestly pretty trashy. They're okay. Definitely a step up from Logicrap...but they're FAR from being decent.
> 
> The Dayton subs are definitely GREAT budget subwoofers though, and you won't go wrong picking one up.
> 
> All I saw on that long list was garbage. You listed one decent sub, and that's your Velodyne. And even then, it has little to no excursion, so it doesn't have much output for being an 18".
> 
> And why would compare a $100 subwoofer to a $2000 subwoofer? Seriously. Apples to oranges much? Velodyne makes great equipment, but they are FAR too obsessed with THD figures, as it appears you are too. You do realize a volume control was invented for a reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Turn the volume on the Logicraps down...viola!! No more distortion!!!! Still have crappy sound though.


does the side woofer from an anthony gallo 3.1 system count? with EQ drive on, they claim to get down to 22htz but do not list any THD figures or decibels. they dound pretty damn good though.










anyway, i got a new shot of my bx5a's on top of my rackmount stuff



















he speakers equipment here is:

the velodyne uld 18 in the corner
the NAD T751 receiver can not be seen under the servo amp
Velodyne ULD 400 watt RMS ULD series II power servo amplifier
M-Audio BX5A studio monitors
Anthony Gallo nucleus speaker
V-MODA Crossfade LP headphones
Sennheiser CX6 IEM

anyway how is it my fault all ive heard aside from a few select speakers are garbage? if i had the money, i'd buy an 18 inch tc sounds driver and stick it in my sub box and re finish it. and why are you obsessed with exursion?

104db at 20 htz isnt good enough for you? are you trying to go deaf?


----------



## bobfig

honestly im getting tired from hearing about this "AMAZING" 18" driver from the last 10 pages (10 post per pages). seriously if your happy with this sub woofer then why not just use it and not worry about looking for a new one.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11957489*
> because mine intermittently pops out, RANDOMLY.... iv'e SAID this... but then again for $200, i can't COMPLAIN....
> 
> honestly, i couldnt be happier for WHAT I PAID....
> 
> BUT... it DOESN'T work perfectly and POPS OUT..... iv'e displayed a picture of the actual volume knob notched to where it pops out, barely above minimum....


i agree with you on for what you paid its nice and im glad you liked it. as for it "poping in and out", what do you mean by that? dose it turn off and on or make a crackling noise. the only thing i could reccomend is to send it off to get repaired
Quote:


> that being said... why the hell can't i ask about what's better in the section of this forum designed to where things like this should be DISCUSSED. why don't you REPORT my posts if you don't like them?


chill dude, i was only saying enough is enough about this sub.
Quote:


> not only that, but i was recently personally attacked for asking how the dayton stacks up to a DD-10 subwoofer compared to the polk audio psw10. i mean what the hell? iv'e never HEARD most hifi subs, why the HELL can't i ask how they compare without getting bashed? every time i bring up what iv'e HEARD, people seem to attack me, acting like i'm some narcissistic ******* instead of actually giving me their own personal anecdotal evidence.


i wouldn't call pioneerisloud attacking you, more of a slap on the back of the head for asking what the difference between a $1300 sub and a $150 sub. of course the higher price sub would be better built with better parts and have more R&D.
Quote:


> try actually responding to my initial questions with some kindness in the first place with ACTUAL knowledge to give me instead of acting like you treat me for being.
> 
> oh wait, i wouldn't need to post this if we still had chat, would i? i could have discussed different subs and how they sounded THOUSANDS OF TIMES BY NOW in chat whereas i haven't gotten ANY ACTUAL COMPARISON from ANYONE or ANYONE's...ACTUAL anecdotal experiences on different subs and how they actually sound. i blame the mods and taking out chat for that.


first of all the questions your asking shouldn't be asked on a computer forum where 95% of the people are more into the computers then audio.

second of all i have only posted like 2 times with in the last 10 pages and even 1 of those was towards you in a polite manner, not yelling or challenging you in any way. so i don't see where this all might high horse from you comes from when you are literally demanding questions from us when most of our money goes to computers not audio.

if you want my 2cents i would trash that sub and make one from scratch to learn how they work in the first place.


----------



## TUDJ

*Let's stay on topic







*


----------



## soloz2

wow, just got up and half a page is gone!







LOL

Re Subs, I haven't personally heard the Dayton drivers either but have heard some good information about them. I have never ever been impressed with Rockford subs. Their older amps were pretty bulletproof and had decent SQ, but I am convinced that the older zebra style Kicker amps were the best sounding commonly found car audio amps available. I still have a couple of them as they too are pretty bullet proof.

Speaking of Tang Band... they make some great full range drivers. Lets see some more full range single driver speakers. I was leery about them at first... I mean how can a single driver sound as good as or better than a dedicated woofer and a tweeter? There's just something that sounds right with minimal electronics in the signal path and no crossover to mess with sound. Add a small SET amp and you'll be singing along


----------



## Darkapoc

I love RE audio everyone moved onto Fi which is from one of the makers of RE who moved over there but now RE is being jap made so its kinda going downhill.

I plan on putting my Power Bass xl-652m in a box here soon if I can find the accurate specs on the darn things >,< even the company has NO listed specs on them I even called to confirm this, the drivers themselves are INSANELY responsive though.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11964448*
> I love RE audio everyone moved onto Fi which is from one of the makers of RE who moved over there but now RE is being jap made so its kinda going downhill.
> 
> I plan on putting my Power Bass xl-652m in a box here soon if I can find the accurate specs on the darn things >,< even the company has NO listed specs on them I even called to confirm this, the drivers themselves are INSANELY responsive though.


They don't even have a data sheet?


----------



## Darkapoc

Nothing they don't even exist off of sonic electronix as far as the internet is concerned -.-, granted I got them for free from working on a limo bus (shipping error ftw), but since have lost the box for them though the manual only had basic frequency response which is NOT waht I want xD so far only thing I can think of is gettign one of the usb kits to run any driver by hooking it up but don't feel like forking over that kind of cash.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11967102*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's my garbage setup. in my stupid 6'x10' room.
> 
> from left to right to back:
> 
> the crappy broken desk i fixed by using my radiator as a wall shelf and bookshelves as feet
> 
> my crappy office chair
> 
> moldy old coaster
> 
> griffen ipod dock
> 
> my crappy m-audio bx5a left speaker
> 
> logitech g13 game pad
> 
> logitech g15v2 garbage plastic membrane keyboard
> 
> crappy 3" anthony gallo nucleus speaker as my center channel for home theater use
> *100Hz-18,000Hz fullrange driver (HT USE ONLY)*
> 
> Gateway FPD2485 24" 1920x1200 S-IPS garbage monitor
> 
> samsung 940bw 1440x900 monitor
> 
> tactx re badged g9x crappy mouse
> 
> steelseries experience i-2 acid washed glass mousepad
> 
> my NAD remote
> 
> my garbage sigrig is behind that
> 
> my crappy velodyne ULD 18 is the 105 pound black subwoofer in the corner*
> rated at 104db at 20Hz with 0.5% distortion, [email protected] with under 3% THD. +-3db=14Hz-85Hz
> *
> my 7dbi antenna only gets signal on the corner of that weird table
> 
> on top of the $6 thrift store table is...
> 
> my bx5a crappy right speaker with some crappy vomda crossfade lp headpones around it
> *70 watt class AB bi-amplified 0.5%THD, 56-22kHz, 90DB SPL*
> 
> my crappy velodyne ULD 18 400 watt RMS class B ULD series II power servo controller
> 
> my crappy NAD T751 receiver
> *only 60 watts a channel class AB amplification*
> 
> my fouton (my bed) is the crappy black pillow looking thing.
> 
> yup...that's my crappy bedroom setup. what would you expect from a poor 19 year old, anyway?....


yeah, here's my garbage setup, it's no better than logitech's amazing tang band driver's in the z5500 system, now can you update my damn speakers please?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11967820*
> Nothing they don't even exist off of sonic electronix as far as the internet is concerned -.-, granted I got them for free from working on a limo bus (shipping error ftw), but since have lost the box for them though the manual only had basic frequency response which is NOT waht I want xD so far only thing I can think of is gettign one of the usb kits to run any driver by hooking it up but don't feel like forking over that kind of cash.


Have you emailed them? Sometimes they have datasheets even if it's not on their website. They may send it to you, it's worth a try if you haven't already.


----------



## Darkapoc

Just received an email from them gave me info on teh tweeter being a silk dome which explains why I love its sound so much







. and basic specs 63-20khz but nothing specific, replied back asking for theiles if not I think I'm gonna be guessing on the boxes xD.
Right now I'm thinking about .5 cubic foot tuned to 53.2 hz built with .5 inch mdf (Don't need 3/4 inch shouldnt be flexing that much.

14heightx8widthx11depth
Seems to be a reasonably common sized box for single 6.5 inch mid bass speakers, Which I want a little extra low end out of it since I prefer to run them without my power hog bass amp turned on.
Any thoughts?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11980628*
> Just received an email from them gave me info on teh tweeter being a silk dome which explains why I love its sound so much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . and basic specs 63-20khz but nothing specific, replied back asking for theiles if not I think I'm gonna be guessing on the boxes xD.
> Right now I'm thinking about .5 cubic foot tuned to 53.2 hz built with .5 inch mdf (Don't need 3/4 inch shouldnt be flexing that much.
> 
> 14heightx8widthx11depth
> Seems to be a reasonably common sized box for single 6.5 inch mid bass speakers, Which I want a little extra low end out of it since I prefer to run them without my power hog bass amp turned on.
> Any thoughts?


I'm surprised you didn't realize it was silk dome immediately :O they are very distinguishable both by looks, textile/feel, and even by how they sound. I like my BX5A's a LOT more than my much bigger advent 8" tower speakers, because OF the silk dome's. i hate plastic tweeters.


----------



## Mygaffer

I'm just throwing this out there but in my opinion the membership list is lagging way too much.
I know jarble is doing his best and I respect that but it the list is months behind.
Perhaps someone else who is more active here can take over the list?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer;11981118*
> I'm just throwing this out there but in my opinion the membership list is lagging way too much.
> I know jarble is doing his best and I respect that but it the list is months behind.
> Perhaps someone else who is more active here can take over the list?


Im not even sure if my setup is construed as hifi yet anyway lol.

Crappy auzentech xfi hometheater hd sound card sending digital coax 24 bit 96kHz to my crappy NAD T751 receiver which has left and right pee out going to my m audio bx5a studio monitors. My center channel is an Anthony gallo nucleus speaker only for ht use watching blu rays. My rears are some advent 8" prodigy 2 towers. My sub is a velodyne ULD 18 which has the same acoustical output as a velodyne DD18.

I know, my setup is pretty trashy, especially for the $600'i paid for it. I doubt I'll even be included in the speaker club as a z5500 beats me out. In every possible way.


----------



## XiCynx

I have a pair of the *M-Audio AV 40*'s

I finally decided to go with the M-Audio AV-40 and I have nothing but rave reviews. The sound is outstanding. I wanted to buy speakers for my home that would be worthy of the time I spent listening to them. Simply said, the sound is fantastic.

If you want a speaker system to powerfully throw music/gaming/movie sounds around you then get a 2.1 system with subwoofer, but if you are looking for clarity and brilliant reproduction, I highly recommend this system. Classical music, rock and techno all sound amazing.

My first test was Ravel's Bolero by the London Symphony Orchestra which is often cited as a great speaker test due to the range and low starting phase. The test was an unconditional success. From there I moved to Pink Floyd, Mindless Self Indulgence, Some Random Dubstep, T.E.R.A. Online music and on and on. Simply fantastic.

Finally, I want to address two of my biggest concerns going into this purchase. First, many reviewers hate the size and need for positioning of the AV-40 and I was a bit concerned. The speakers are big for a computer system but not nearly as large as I feared with the amount of reviews claiming they were beasts. However, as a friend said, good speakers are often not small.


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11981158*
> Im not even sure if my setup is construed as hifi yet anyway lol.
> 
> Crappy auzentech xfi hometheater hd sound card sending digital coax 24 bit 96kHz to my crappy NAD T751 receiver which has left and right pee out going to my m audio bx5a studio monitors. My center channel is an Anthony gallo nucleus speaker only for ht use watching blu rays. My rears are some advent 8" prodigy 2 towers. My sub is a velodyne ULD 18 which has the same acoustical output as a velodyne DD18.
> 
> I know, my setup is pretty trashy, especially for the $600'i paid for it. I doubt I'll even be included in the speaker club as a z5500 beats me out. In every possible way.


Que paso? What are you talking about?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer;11981118*
> I'm just throwing this out there but in my opinion the membership list is lagging way too much.
> I know jarble is doing his best and I respect that but it the list is months behind.
> Perhaps someone else who is more active here can take over the list?


If I get any time at the weekend I'll work backwards from the most recent posts and start updating the list, I can't promise anything though. If I do manage to get it up to date then I'll be happy to take over if Jarble doesn't mind (having 2 people doing it would be a nightmare)


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer;11981176*
> Que paso? What are you talking about?


I listed my garbage audio setup which gets raped by the logitech z5500 just in case it's worthy of the speaker club.


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tUDJ;11981192*
> If I get any time at the weekend I'll work backwards from the most recent posts and start updating the list, I can't promise anything though. If I do manage to get it up to date then I'll be happy to take over if Jarble doesn't mind (having 2 people doing it would be a nightmare)


Thats great to hear! Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11981229*
> I listed my garbage audio setup which gets raped by the logitech z5500 just in case it's worthy of the speaker club.


To be clear we are talking about the powered B5Xa set, the Velodyne 18"?

That is definitely not the best setup in this thread but I sure wouldn't call it garbage or say it gets beat by the logicrap.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer;11981308*
> Thats great to hear! Thanks.
> 
> To be clear we are talking about the powered B5Xa set, the Velodyne 18"?
> 
> That is definitely not the best setup in this thread but I sure wouldn't call it garbage or say it gets beat by the logicrap.


I was kinda joking, but hey... A logitech tang band sub driver has four TIMES more excursion than my velodyne driver, therefore it must be better.

Actually I was kinda asking to get my things updated. But ocn has kindly told me that $200 for my NAD T751 receiver was a rip off and that any standard yamaha beats it, and that since my velodyne has no exursion, it sucks and that I'm obsessed with THD because I think it's awesome to have 104db at 20 htz output with 0.5% THD and would rather say that than my sub can put out 120db at 20htz with under 3% distortion. Either way, my amp pops out some times, and speakers never really have over 100db anyway from what I've seen. Also apparently 14 htz is useless because my ears can't hear it









Maybe I'll throw away my setup and get a $200 yamaha receiver, some waerfdale diamond 9.2 and a Polk psw10! Great idea!

Aiming to get energy rc50 and plans to build a 5 channel quad 405 amplifier is a bad idea.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11981437*
> I was kinda joking, but hey... A logitech tang band sub driver has four TIMES more excursion than my velodyne driver, therefore it must be better.
> 
> Actually I was kinda asking to get my things updated. But ocn has kindly told me that $200 for my NAD T751 receiver was a rip off and that any standard yamaha beats it, and that since my velodyne has no exursion, it sucks and that I'm obsessed with THD because I think it's awesome to have 104db at 20 htz output with 0.5% THD and would rather say that than my sub can put out 120db at 20htz with under 3% distortion. Either way, my amp pops out some times, and speakers never really have over 100db anyway from what I've seen. Also apparently 14 htz is useless because my ears can't hear it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll throw away my setup and get a $200 yamaha receiver, some waerfdale diamond 9.2 and a Polk psw10! Great idea!
> 
> Aiming to get energy rc50 and plans to build a 5 channel quad 405 amplifier is a bad idea.


You take what people say far too seriously, it doesn't matter what anyone thinks if you are happy with it.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tUDJ;11981478*
> You take what people say far too seriously, it doesn't matter what anyone thinks if you are happy with it.


What would you expect? I'm some 19 year old kid who doesnt know jack and these are people coming off like they are professionals, and the only person I physically know that knows more about audio than me used to fix drivers for bang and olufson as well as velodyne amongst others. Not so easy to learn from him sometimes though.

I'm not sure how I'm going to learn how acoustical properties of the cone material bs how far flush mounted in the drivers are or how the baffle materials work with the acoustic properties, or how to get the right coils, capacitors, how to measure them properly and how to figure out the cu ft for each driver and how thick to make the boxes, how much polyfill to put in... He makes it sound like rocket science to build my own speakers.

Also Id need to learn to to work with mdf properly and veneer it properly. Veneering seems like a PITA.

That being said, every time I try to learn something here, someone who acts like they are a sound professional basically tells me to **** the forum


----------



## Darkapoc

Well anyone who tells you to get out can themselves get out this is a place for learning I by no means know a lot about speakers and I've been in this for about 4-5 years now being 21.
I DO however know what sounds good to ME and what I'm happy with , and what you have to realize is a few people would kill for a setup like yours though I personally prefer hand built by myself.
and a good program to get you off with is winisd, just hang around audio forums and ask questions and you'll be fine.
**** I bought my first amp back in 08 it was a dj technical pro hb 2000 or something of the sort sounded AWFUL, since I have 2 lepai t amps and an old sony amp I repaired from someones garbage. and parts that i get out of the garbage and pick up here and there at the shop.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11981437*
> I was kinda joking, but hey... *A logitech tang band sub driver has four TIMES more excursion than my velodyne driver, therefore it must be better.*
> 
> Actually I was kinda asking to get my things updated. But ocn has kindly told me that $200 for my NAD T751 receiver was a rip off and that any standard yamaha beats it, and that since my velodyne has no exursion, it sucks and that I'm obsessed with THD because I think it's awesome to have 104db at 20 htz output with 0.5% THD and would rather say that than my sub can put out 120db at 20htz with under 3% distortion. Either way, my amp pops out some times, and speakers never really have over 100db anyway from what I've seen. Also apparently 14 htz is useless because my ears can't hear it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'll throw away my setup and get a $200 yamaha receiver, some waerfdale diamond 9.2 and a Polk psw10! Great idea!
> 
> Aiming to get energy rc50 and plans to build a 5 channel quad 405 amplifier is a bad idea.


You're taking only ONE aspect of what I've told you, and taking it far too literally. If you're going to continue bashing on me....and I KNOW that's what you're doing, then I am GOING to put you on my ignore list permanently. And that is a VERY short list.

You need to go read up on how subwoofers work if you're going to continue to think you know all, when all you know is THD numbers and low frequency points. You don't seem to understand HOW those results are found.

I am by no means bashing you, if I were...it would be a lot more clear. It's just obvious that you know little to nothing about subwoofers. And until you do, quit trying to put ME down. Because I will come back and prove you wrong each time.

You honestly do have a good setup. You have a better bass response than I do right now. All I have is an older Pioneer 135w RMS @ 8ohm reciever (7 channels, Dolby ProLogic), and some 1973 Pioneer 12" tower speakers. I don't even have a subwoofer anymore in my home setup right now.


----------



## Darkapoc

I always have bass xD I'm obsessive over it HIGHS are the new stuff for me







, IDK how people listen to anything when they have no low end extension.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11986007*
> I always have bass xD I'm obsessive over it HIGHS are the new stuff for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , IDK how people listen to anything when they have no low end extension.


I agree completely. I am obsessive over subwoofers, but my focus is in my car. I can listen to it as loud as I want there.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11986007*
> I always have bass xD I'm obsessive over it HIGHS are the new stuff for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , IDK how people listen to anything when they have no low end extension.


what sucks for me is, now every time i hear any audio setup, i think it sounds like complete crap, unless i'm at my friend's house who has Focal's, quad's, mcintosh's, gallo's everywhere you turn your head.

my setup sounds ok, only because my bass response is pretty damn good.

why can't there be stores where you can hear stuff that good?

the actual reason i bought my bx5a's was to have a baseline model of speaker to compair what i build to. the initial goal woud be to build a speaker as good or better than these, and since these are studio monitors, they are designed to reveal details most speakers don't, a budget decent speaker, although nowhere near as good as a focal driver.


----------



## Darkapoc

You just have to learn to appreciate every setup for its strengths.
Wwhile my stereo may sound better than my friends I know that him and I put a lot of hard work into it with what we had at the time and I'm proud of it regardless.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11987170*
> what sucks for me is, now every time i hear any audio setup, i think it sounds like complete crap, unless i'm at my friend's house who has Focal's, quad's, mcintosh's, gallo's everywhere you turn your head.
> 
> my setup sounds ok, only because my bass response is pretty damn good.
> 
> why can't there be stores where you can hear stuff that good?
> 
> the actual reason i bought my bx5a's was to have a baseline model of speaker to compair what i build to. the initial goal woud be to build a speaker as good or better than these, and since these are studio monitors, they are designed to reveal details most speakers don't, a budget decent speaker, although nowhere near as good as a focal driver.


I have a similar problem. I put so much work into my studio gear that nothing compares. I go to friends houses who swear just cause they spent more $ than me that there setup is better and all i here is a typical home theater BestBuy system with the bass clipping ever chance it can. Im not a bass freak to me its just the first 150hz out of 22k. I actually put a larger part of my time on tuning the highs it cant be muddy and has to be crisp clear and not painful to listen to. Comparing deferent systems is hard cause the room changes the sound a lot. There are other variables to that change from setup to setup. I have never hared a setup that sounds like my studio gear and probably never will its unique. The vintage drivers themselves make it close to impossible to see identical cabs they are 51 years old after all.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthspartan;11989755*
> I have a similar problem. I put so much work into my studio gear that nothing compares. I go to friends houses who swear just cause they spent more $ than me that there setup is better and all i here is a typical home theater BestBuy system with the bass clipping ever chance it can. Im not a bass freak to me its just the first 150hz out of 22k. I actually put a larger part of my time on tuning the highs it cant be muddy and has to be crisp clear and not painful to listen to. Comparing deferent systems is hard cause the room changes the sound a lot. There are other variables to that change from setup to setup. I have never hared a setup that sounds like my studio gear and probably never will its unique. The vintage drivers themselves make it close to impossible to see identical cabs they are 51 years old after all.


LOL pretty much all the speakers in any big box store will be garbage. the bx5a's are one exception for the $190 i paid at microcenter with employee discount at the time. even for $300, they are pretty much a steal. I love the silk domes and crisp sound from them. my friend who bought $80 sony bookshelves with 8 inch drivers swears his sony speakers with my old rockford fosgate daul 12" subs and the amp i gave him sounds better than my setup because he overdrives the crap out of his speakers for house parties and cares nothing other than feeling the bass. I hate to break it to him, but I'm pretty sure it's garbage when the tinny sound is so loud it makes your ears hurt along with the fact you can hear the subs voice coils rubbing against the motor because they're being overdriven so hard, gurgling all the way, clipping everywhere.

but yeah, those ******* that think they have the best sound by bose can have fun with their 2 cu ft bose boxes with 6 inch sub drivers in them and their little 2-3 inch full range drivers with those little speaker cubes and have the sub play sounds all the way up to 150 htz being muddy as hell, clipping out everywhere, having trouble playing sounds below 40Hz and above 18kHz, sounding tinny as hell at sounds above 2kHz...distortion everywhere....it's sad.

I love fidelity, everywhere. i love deep bass which is clear and musical, i love clear crisp highs which are not harsh and are revealing the sound how it was meant to heard. I realize my bx5a's are far from all that good, but I'm far from rich so, yeah. lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Corey, what you are likely hearing with those Rockford subwoofers isn't the voice coils rubbing the magnet. That doesn't happen unless they are BLOWN. What you're likely hearing is clipping, which will eventually lead to blowing them.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11989983*
> Corey, what you are likely hearing with those Rockford subwoofers isn't the voice coils rubbing the magnet. That doesn't happen unless they are BLOWN. What you're likely hearing is clipping, which will eventually lead to blowing them.


You sure? It was literally a grinding noise


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;11990041*
> You sure? It was literally a grinding noise


I am positive. It is physically IMPOSSIBLE for the coils to rub anything. The only time that can happen is if they're blown.

It was probably clipping like mad, and massive distortion from having the bass knobs cranked too high.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


> but yeah, those ******* that think they have the best sound by bose can have fun with their 2 cu ft bose boxes with 6 inch sub drivers in them and their little 2-3 inch full range drivers with those little speaker cubes and have the sub play sounds all the way up to 150 htz being muddy as hell, clipping out everywhere, having trouble playing sounds below 40Hz and above 18kHz, sounding tinny as hell at sounds above 2kHz...distortion everywhere....it's sad.


Spot on my 18s are crossed over at 80 hz these drivers are good down to 30hz not amazing but they are powered and i puled them from my PA when i quit doing small jobs. The vintage JBLs were luck my dad found them at an estate sale with intact surrounds for $50 paired with a 1500watt amp from my PA and a 12 band parametric. I already had this stuff so my total cost was nothing at setup. Its all about the knowledge you have my friends don't have experience but a few have money. On my end my father has been doing sound reinforcement since the late 60s so he knew what the jbs were worth and that makes a huge difference we also have similar taste in music. I have had the JBLs appraised but would never sell them.


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11990053*
> I am positive. It is physically IMPOSSIBLE for the coils to rub anything. The only time that can happen is if they're blown.
> 
> It was probably clipping like mad, and massive distortion from having the bass knobs cranked too high.


Very possible actually while not being blown they could also have a shifted pole piece the once itself may have been hit 1 too many times and the suspension is unevenly worn while playing at high volumes it would make it much more noticeable.


----------



## ericld

If the guy is that into house parties he is using the wrong set up. He should be thinking more in the lines of DJ equipment and using something like some JBL JRX115s. Then he can "feel" all the thump he wants. Their is a major difference in High Fidelity Audiophile speakers and high volume club mix. Kind of like comparing a SL 65 AMG to a top fuel dragster.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;11990697*
> Very possible actually while not being blown they could also have a shifted pole piece the once itself may have been hit 1 too many times and the suspension is unevenly worn while playing at high volumes it would make it much more noticeable.


Sorry, to clarify, its impossible for the coils to rub without the subwoofer being DAMAGED. Better?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;11990880*
> Sorry, to clarify, its impossible for the coils to rub without the subwoofer being DAMAGED. Better?


oh i'm sure they are damaged. he's overdriving the hell out of those subs every time to the point of pure gurgling in order to feel more bass.

sure, you might feel a little more bass in those garbage drivers destroying themselves, but then again, acoustically, they are garbage.

somone mind telling me why when i crank up my velodyne 18 inch sub, my entire house starts falling apart before i feel much of the bass? one of my friend's garbage dual 10 inch subs in his car has more kick to it than this sub, but you can hear them clipping so easily. this i do not understand at all how acoustically, my sub can make my ears hurt with 0 distortion, destroying my house, but i won't feel the bass as much as a z5500 sub can do.


----------



## Darkapoc

yeah that works xD wasnt being a prick just clarifying and I think the only speaker I've seen with a significant enough pole slant was a rockford p2.
Though rockfords are meh at best I like their high end component set but other than that they're average at best even their t2s get knocked down quick for their price.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


yeah that works xD wasnt being a prick just clarifying and I think the only speaker I've seen with a significant enough pole slant was a rockford p2.
Though rockfords are meh at best I like their high end component set but other than that they're average at best even their t2s get knocked down quick for their price.


I'll admit straight up, the sound coming out of those are garbage. they *suck*

I'm still trying to figure out how this velodyne pushing out 120 db's will destroy my house and i can barely feel it, with under 3% distortion... but those crappy little rockfords pushing 90 db's killing themselves at 30 htz with like 30% distortion will hit you alot harder. makes no sense.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


I'll admit straight up, the sound coming out of those are garbage. they *suck*

I'm still trying to figure out how this velodyne pushing out 120 db's will destroy my house and i can barely feel it, with under 3% distortion... but those crappy little rockfords pushing 90 db's killing themselves at 30 htz with like 30% distortion will hit you alot harder. makes no sense.


It's because of the amount of airspace in the room is so large. Higher frequencies will generally "hit you" harder than the lower ones will. The only time the really low notes are felt more than heard, is USUALLY in car audio applications. Not to say home audio can't be "felt", but its a lot more evident in a tiny little car than it is in a 10'x15' living room or 6'x10' bedroom.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


It's because of the amount of airspace in the room is so large. Higher frequencies will generally "hit you" harder than the lower ones will. The only time the really low notes are felt more than heard, is USUALLY in car audio applications. Not to say home audio can't be "felt", but its a lot more evident in a tiny little car than it is in a 10'x15' living room or 6'x10' bedroom.


hmm, makes sense. in home theater applications, it hits alot harder than in music though. for example a 22 gig blu ray of iron man 2 playing, if one of those big ass robots smashes down on the ground, i'll feel it pretty decently


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


hmm, makes sense. in home theater applications, it hits alot harder than in music though. for example a 22 gig blu ray of iron man 2 playing, if one of those big ass robots smashes down on the ground, i'll feel it pretty decently










I'm going to assume here, that the music you're listening to just MIGHT not be "subwoofer" type material. Try out some Young Jeezy (Put On is a good one), Tech N9ne (most of the KOD album but I won't discourage any Tech N9ne music), maybe some Bass Mechaniks, Three 6 Mafia...there's a TON of music that should by all means hit hard on a decent subwoofer setup.

Just remember, subwoofers aren't all about the subsonic notes (below 30Hz). If your cutoff point is 20Hz, you should have a frequency response of 20-50Hz with your subwoofer. 25Hz cutoff, it should be 25-63Hz.

EDIT:
You've also got what's called "cabin gain" in car audio. This applies to home audio as well, but I'm unsure of the term for home use. The acoustics of your room WILL have an effect on what notes you hear and which ones you don't hear. Same with feeling the notes too.

And a different size and amount of drivers will ALSO impact that as well.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I'm going to assume here, that the music you're listening to just MIGHT not be "subwoofer" type material. Try out some Young Jeezy (Put On is a good one), Tech N9ne (most of the KOD album but I won't discourage any Tech N9ne music), maybe some Bass Mechaniks, Three 6 Mafia...there's a TON of music that should by all means hit hard on a decent subwoofer setup.

Just remember, subwoofers aren't all about the subsonic notes (below 30Hz). If your cutoff point is 20Hz, you should have a frequency response of 20-50Hz with your subwoofer. 25Hz cutoff, it should be 25-63Hz.

EDIT:
You've also got what's called "cabin gain" in car audio. This applies to home audio as well, but I'm unsure of the term for home use. The acoustics of your room WILL have an effect on what notes you hear and which ones you don't hear. Same with feeling the notes too.

And a different size and amount of drivers will ALSO impact that as well.


ROFL ok i repent that statement. i can feel the bass from young jeezy on min volume lol. it literally made my dog pee itself.


----------



## Darkapoc

The tuning of the boxes is different that's why I have 2 different subs my 12 inch for higher bass 24> and my 15 for 27 and under.
My first subs were 2 40 dollar memphis pr 10s running off of 200 watts ina 4 cube box tuned at 33hz things could shake the entire house and i had the cops called on me constantly because of them they were my spl speakers my 15 was my sq speaker.
what youre looking for a is an sql setup 
A loud system with decent pressure.
If you decide to build your own box I'm pretty sure we could find a way to get the output you're looking for from it.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


The tuning of the boxes is different that's why I have 2 different subs my 12 inch for higher bass 24> and my 15 for 27 and under.
My first subs were 2 40 dollar memphis pr 10s running off of 200 watts ina 4 cube box tuned at 33hz things could shake the entire house and i had the cops called on me constantly because of them they were my spl speakers my 15 was my sq speaker.
what youre looking for a is an sql setup 
A loud system with decent pressure.
If you decide to build your own box I'm pretty sure we could find a way to get the output you're looking for from it.


this thing has more than enough output, but it pops out which is annoying as hell


----------



## pioneerisloud

Here's what I would do







.

Get a good, a GOOD car audio 15" driver, maybe an 18...but I don't like huge drivers like that. Put it in a huge box with like a 30Hz tune or so (probably guessing 8 cuft or so ported). That would be a big enough box that it could reproduce the super low notes that you want, but the tune frequency is high enough, that you'd still get decent "kick" out of it, and decent higher bass response too (probably up to around 50-60Hz or so). Then just power the sucker with the Dayton 1000w rack amp.


----------



## Darkapoc

hes planning on the tc sounds lms5400 from waht I heard.
And at what frequencies is it popping out?(by this I assume you mean the voicecoil leaves the gap and you have to reseat the cone.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Here's what I would do







.

Get a good, a GOOD car audio 15" driver, maybe an 18...but I don't like huge drivers like that. Put it in a huge box with like a 30Hz tune or so (probably guessing 8 cuft or so ported). That would be a big enough box that it could reproduce the super low notes that you want, but the tune frequency is high enough, that you'd still get decent "kick" out of it, and decent higher bass response too (probably up to around 50-60Hz or so). Then just power the sucker with the Dayton 1000w rack amp.


How would a 15 inch tc sounds driver stack up against my velodyne setup for SQ?

yeah, I was planning for an lms ultra 5400 and just swapping it in my cabinet, would be super easy. my cabinet is 5.7 cu ft. it's not the voice coil, the actual servo is popping out. i can see the woofer itself moving on its own before it pops out when the sub is on it's side.if i move the servo cord, it will pop out on it's own which leads me to believe the vibrations from bass is causing this more than anything else. does anyone know how to trick this uld series II class b 400 watt amp into thinking theres no servo circuit?


----------



## spRICE

I've been testing out my JBL 62T's and (I think) they have great bass response for bookshelf speakers







They are rated to go as low as 75Hz but I tested them out and they don't lose volume until <35Hz. Correct me if I'm wrong, but pretty good for VERY cheap speakers with 6.5" drivers.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


How would a 15 inch tc sounds driver stack up against my velodyne setup for SQ?


Honestly, it would all depend on the enclosure you build for it, and the power you give it.

If you REALLY want to get into some tricky, REALLY awesome enclosures, do some research on Transmission Line boxes (or T-Line for short). I'm not a noob at designing boxes...and I still won't touch a T-Line again. I got lucky once, and I can't seem to reproduce those results ever again







.

I've seen a T-Line enclosure with a single 6.5" subwoofer getting about 300w RMS out perform two 12's with 1000w RMS. Ironically enough.....with a famed Tang Band driver.


----------



## Killercds

sony muteki lbt-zx99i
It's a shelf system but damn it packs a punch







The bass shakes the entire floor


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Honestly, it would all depend on the enclosure you build for it, and the power you give it.

If you REALLY want to get into some tricky, REALLY awesome enclosures, do some research on Transmission Line boxes (or T-Line for short). I'm not a noob at designing boxes...and I still won't touch a T-Line again. I got lucky once, and I can't seem to reproduce those results ever again







.

I've seen a T-Line enclosure with a single 6.5" subwoofer getting about 300w RMS out perform two 12's with 1000w RMS. Ironically enough.....with a famed Tang Band driver.


lol that's disgusting.

i might get a 15" tc sounds driver in that case, and play around with it until i get it how i want. should be fun.

how would i start figuring out how to make the slats how big and where to place them? i can easily use my velodyne as a benchmark for SQ, while just meter the SPL i get out of it.


----------



## Darkapoc

1/4 wave principal designsa re indeed fun I have my design laying aroudn for my vega subs , just haven't had the utilities to build it.
and check out the snall shell boxes fun indeed.

If not check the hell boy box design from TTB back when pete was still working for them.

You could always contact them and have them design you a box and it would be guaranteed to give you exactly what you ask of it


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


1/4 wave principal designsa re indeed fun I have my design laying aroudn for my vega subs , just haven't had the utilities to build it.
and check out the snall shell boxes fun indeed.

If not check the hell boy box design from TTB back when pete was still working for them.

You could always contact them and have them design you a box and it would be guaranteed to give you exactly what you ask of it


Or you could just contact Pete directly. I don't remember his website anymore though, but he has his own site up, and I believe he asks $50 for the enclosure design (which isn't bad for what you get).


----------



## Darkapoc

He quit doing designs awhile back I think though forgot about that I think its only like 100 something for the boxes but you wont get another like it.
I'll see if I can't find that link TO ROE.
TTB was taken down

New guy around my audio forum designing for everyone is Fallen.
http://www.nightmareaudio.com/ that's his site you should check him out Very helpful with any questions you would have as well.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


He quit doing designs awhile back I think though forgot about that I think its only like 100 something for the boxes but you wont get another like it.
I'll see if I can't find that link TO ROE.
TTB was taken down

New guy around my audio forum designing for everyone is Fallen.
http://www.nightmareaudio.com/ that's his site you should check him out Very helpful with any questions you would have as well.


Very very true, I forgot about Fallen. Great guy, and he also makes some killer enclosure designs as well







.


----------



## Darkapoc

TCAB AHAHAHA were you around over there for that?
sorry off topic haha.

EDIT:
Y'all want to take measurements of what your tuning frequency is and what size mid bass / cabinet you're using that tuning in?


----------



## steve10

I'm not sure if I remember the model number for this pair, but they are louder than most speakers I have heard and also have ridiculously clear-sounding mids and tweeters. Powering them is a Pioneer Elite M-90 and it's sister control amp, the C-90.

I think i got the whole set (including amps) for ~$80.


----------



## coreyL

LOL. Sophie peed herself again, this time to insane dubstep drops.

since i knocked down the volume on my bx5a's half way to make the buzzing less, my bass went through the roof to make the bx5a's anywhere near loud enough.










that's the velodyne sub level, literally on -08 db on my NAD receiver, the bass starts shaking my house on -0 subwoofer level in the receiver settings. Sophie pissed herself again to subsonic sound.

my sub started popping out really bad while watching iron man 2, showing my friend's my setup. i really need to delete this servo circuit out of the picture. can anyone help me do this?

i tested some car subs, a dual 10 inch thumpers in a 1 cu ft enclosure, and a decent 12 inch mtx in a 1 cu ft enclosure, they were garbage =[


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


i tested some car subs, a dual 10 inch thumpers in a 1 cu ft enclosure, and a decent 12 inch mtx in a 1 cu ft enclosure, they were garbage =[


Never heard of "thumpers" before, and MTX makes garbage. So of course you weren't impressed







.


----------



## Bassdoken

Nvm


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bassdoken*


I got some Klipsch ProMedia 2.1's
Let me take some good pics...


pc speakers don't count









Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Never heard of "thumpers" before, and MTX makes garbage. So of course you weren't impressed







.


lol. should i make the diagnostic test: can this sub make my dog pee? jk lol, she's done it twice from too much bass =/


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*











LOL. Sophie peed herself again, this time to insane dubstep drops.

since i knocked down the volume on my bx5a's half way to make the buzzing less, my bass went through the roof to make the bx5a's anywhere near loud enough.

...

that's the velodyne sub level, literally on -08 db on my NAD receiver, the bass starts shaking my house on -0 subwoofer level in the receiver settings. Sophie pissed herself again to subsonic sound.

my sub started popping out really bad while watching iron man 2, showing my friend's my setup. i really need to delete this servo circuit out of the picture. can anyone help me do this?

i tested some car subs, a dual 10 inch thumpers in a 1 cu ft enclosure, and a decent 12 inch mtx in a 1 cu ft enclosure, they were garbage =[


That wet spot is awfully close to the chair. In fact, I see a trail where the chair's wheel moved away from that spot.










SURE, blame the dog.








That's ok dude, you don't have to justify yourself. We all understand







.


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Riiight... a dog pissing itself because of your crap music. That's halarious.

You do realize that dogs have pretty sensitive ears right?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SUPER PISSED;12005422*
> Riiight... a dog pissing itself because of your crap music. That's halarious.
> 
> You do realize that dogs have pretty sensitive ears right?


dogs ears are sensitive to HIGH frequencies more than low ones as far as i know. and the volume knobb was on MINIMUM, what the hell am i supposed to do?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12005359*
> That wet spot is awfully close to the chair. In fact, I see a trail where the chair's wheel moved away from that spot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SURE, blame the dog.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's ok dude, you don't have to justify yourself. We all understand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


lawl, good one.


----------



## Andalusia

I'd like to be considered,

We won't go into components but speakers are:
Axiom M-60 mains, soon to be M-80''s, upgrading, my front's amp is 1000 [email protected]
Axiom M-22 Surrounds?-B- speakers? can't blow them up.(and I'm good at that!)
Axiom VP-100 center
Axiom EP-350-v3 subwoofer, only one, another soon, you can link them!
Accuran Rear Surrounds, cheap stuff they don't have to be much for rears, only work with 7.1
All with "Blue Jean" Ten gauge White cables, Xcept rear surrounds 12 gauge (you don't have to spend millions on cables guys)


----------



## ericld

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Andalusia*


I'd like to be considered,

We won't go into components but speakers are:
Axiom M-60 mains, soon to be M-80''s, upgrading, my front's amp is 1000 [email protected]
Axiom M-22 Surrounds?-B- speakers? can't blow them up.(and I'm good at that!)
Axiom VP-100 center
Axiom EP-350-v3 subwoofer, only one, another soon, you can link them!
Accuran Rear Surrounds, cheap stuff they don't have to be much for rears, only work with 7.1
All with "Blue Jean" Ten gauge White cables, Xcept rear surrounds 12 gauge (you don't have to spend millions on cables guys)


Those are some nice speakers. I just set up the Epic 60 500 surround system in a friends house. They really fill the room.


----------



## spRICE

I've been at the NAMM music convention in LA, and there are some REALLY nice speakers there


----------



## ericld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spRICE;12016085*
> I've been at the NAMM music convention in LA, and there are some REALLY nice speakers there


What, and you forgot your camera. I wanted to see pics of beautiful half naked girls modeling next to the speakers.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ericld*


What, and you forgot your camera. I wanted to see pics of beautiful half naked girls modeling next to the speakers.










NAMM doesn't use the same tactics as Comicon or other nerd/gaming shows.
Here is the photo gallery 
Mostly because this show is for musicians and there more into specs and SQ than anything else. Still a very cool show though.


----------



## BlackHoleSon

I have one of these, http://insigniaproducts.com/products.../NS-PCS41.html

seen here.

  
 You Tube


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BlackHoleSon*


I have one of these, http://insigniaproducts.com/products.../NS-PCS41.html

seen here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KBSzjoenQ1I


PC speakers are excluded here read page 1


----------



## ericld

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darthspartan*


NAMM doesn't use the same tactics as Comicon or other nerd/gaming shows.
Here is the photo gallery 
Mostly because this show is for musicians and there more into specs and SQ than anything else. Still a very cool show though.


I know, but there are still some lookers there. I like the NAMM, and hate it, lol. I am a trumpet player that loves Schilke products. All the new stuff is demoed there.







And its a great place to network. Been a while since I went to one. One of the few places you can still run into Doc.


----------



## BlackHoleSon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *darthspartan*


PC speakers are excluded here read page 1


I skimmed the first page and didn't see that, but my fault.


----------



## Dyslexyc

I bought Audioengine A2s this week. May I be added to the club? These things are amazing.


----------



## Darkapoc

BAHHH WANT MY WOOD >,>
I mean mdf







haha tired of waiting to build these things, I miss having a full range setup.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12038342*
> BAHHH WANT MY WOOD >,>
> I mean mdf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha tired of waiting to build these things, I miss having a full range setup.


Haha, I picked up an 8'x4' sheet of it at lowes about a week ago. It's pretty dense stuff. Really heavy and smells bad







. I'm surprised mdf is so hard to find. Lowes only sold that one size in 3/4'' and home depot didn't have any. At least the ones around me.


----------



## bobfig

i never had a problem finding MDF around here. i have a lows and a home depot in the same parking lot here.


----------



## spRICE

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ericld*


I know, but there are still some lookers there.


Agreed







(Dean Guitars, Coffin Cases to name a few







)


----------



## Darkapoc

Yeah we just recently got the home depot over by me to start carrying it don't know if they have 3/4 inch mdf wasn't after that for a highs box xD.
Yeah that's one reason I prefer it over baltic birch the sound deadening qualities are a bit my taste seeing as how I like low frequency better than any other spectrum.
^^^^ in reference to the Density (sorry stressful morning)


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


Yeah we just recently got the home depot over by me to start carrying it don't know if they have 3/4 inch mdf wasn't after that for a highs box xD.
Yeah that's one reason I prefer it over baltic birch the sound deadening qualities are a bit my taste seeing as how I like low frequency better than any other spectrum.
^^^^ in reference to the Density (sorry stressful morning)


should be like $30 a sheet for 1 inch MDF i think at the depawt.

I believe MDF is the best possible speaker enclosure material because wood, even though is a better building material hands down, will have knots in the grian everywhere, the densities of the rings themselves are different for each ring. there are humidity differences as well all throughout the entire board you will have because of this. each piece of wood is unique, meaning you will have two different sounding speakers, every time, as well as different sounding areas in each speaker themselves. the speaker will resonate all weird as well if the entire enclosure is full wood.

I still ant to design a set of slate speakers, with bronze plates in the front. they would be bookshelves, but they'd look damn nice.

I'd want to use some focal drivers if i did.


----------



## SlyFox

Upgraded from av123 ELT525M to Ascend Sierra-1 in the Dark Cherry Gloss. Don't own a camera so no pics yet..







. I do plan on getting some soon though hopefully.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12055120*
> should be like $30 a sheet for 1 inch MDF i think at the depawt.
> 
> I believe MDF is the best possible speaker enclosure material because wood, even though is a better building material hands down, will have knots in the grian everywhere, the densities of the rings themselves are different for each ring. there are humidity differences as well all throughout the entire board you will have because of this. each piece of wood is unique, meaning you will have two different sounding speakers, every time, as well as different sounding areas in each speaker themselves. the speaker will resonate all weird as well if the entire enclosure is full wood.
> 
> I still ant to design a set of slate speakers, with bronze plates in the front. they would be bookshelves, but they'd look damn nice.
> 
> I'd want to use some focal drivers if i did.


MDF is just the most common used type of material for enclosures. There's a really high density wood that's really expensive that's actually better. However, what it is escapes my mind right now (I want to say Ash, but I know that's not right).

And you don't need 1" thick material for speakers, or even a subwoofer. 3/4" is more than enough, 1/2" for less powered drivers is fine even. You don't need 1" thick material until you break over 1000w RMS on a subwoofer honestly.


----------



## Darkapoc

Well 1" has a lower resonance as well as a higher weight limit over time wood will warp, the thicker it is the longer it will take.
I like to use birch for my highs usually or cabinet grade ply they have a better resonance for mids, and mdf for my subs because of the lower resonance.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12057486*
> Well 1" has a lower resonance as well as a higher weight limit over time wood will warp, the thicker it is the longer it will take.
> I like to use birch for my highs usually or cabinet grade ply they have a better resonance for mids, and mdf for my subs because of the lower resonance.


That's what it was...Birch.

Like I said though, you won't start having problems with 3/4" MDF until you pass over around 1000w RMS or so on a subwoofer. That's just a rough number. But usually the driver won't be heavy enough to harm 3/4", and it won't create enough pressure inside the box without enough power either.


----------



## bobfig

lulz i made my bookshelf's out of 3/4" MDF. i know it was a little excessive but that's what i had.


----------



## theCanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12057523*
> That's what it was...Birch.
> 
> Like I said though, you won't start having problems with 3/4" MDF until you pass over around 1000w RMS or so on a subwoofer. That's just a rough number. But usually the driver won't be heavy enough to harm 3/4", and it won't create enough pressure inside the box without enough power either.


"Enough power" happens to be an *obscene* amount of power.


----------



## jdcrispe95

Creative T3130's.

am I good enough to join?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theCanadian;12057881*
> "Enough power" happens to be an *obscene* amount of power.


Obscene is in the eye of the beholder







. I'm wanting to run 3000w RMS in my car, and to some that's obscene. To me, that's still not enough







.


----------



## LingLing1337

Cambridge Sirocco S30/Eosone RSP912 2.1 setup. It's so musical- I feel like I picked my components just right (The fact that I found everything around 1/2 off contributes to that feeling







)

BTW amazing Quad setup, whoever it was that I saw on pg 127


----------



## Darkapoc

It's baltic birch though not just birch.
NORMAL COMPUTER SPEAKERS ARE NOT PERMITTED IN THE CLUB!?!?!
Not to be mean I'm just restating so hopefully people will notice.
Oh LOL at the 3/4 inch bookshelves xD.


----------



## darthspartan

I love my carvin cabs they have always used baltic birch. It's a very nice sounding wood and tough too pa gear takes a beating and that wood holds up good.


----------



## drjoey1500

For those of you that don't know, baltic birch is just really dense plywood with more layers than the normal cheap pine stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12058632*
> It's baltic birch though not just birch.
> NORMAL COMPUTER SPEAKERS ARE NOT PERMITTED IN THE CLUB!?!?!
> Not to be mean I'm just restating so hopefully people will notice.
> Oh LOL at the 3/4 inch bookshelves xD.


3/4" isn't that thick tbh. I'd use it for bookshelves anyway. If nothing else it'll keep them from sliding around. 1/2" would be plenty, but I wouldn't use anything thinner than 1/2".

pioneerisloud... 3000W, seriously? Past the point of diminishing returns







. I guess if you really want that extra 5dB or so lol.


----------



## Darkapoc

In car audio 3000 watts isn't that much I know numerous people running 3000Ds


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12058881*
> For those of you that don't know, baltic birch is just really dense plywood with more layers than the normal cheap pine stuff.
> 
> 3/4" isn't that thick tbh. I'd use it for bookshelves anyway. If nothing else it'll keep them from sliding around. 1/2" would be plenty, but I wouldn't use anything thinner than 1/2".
> 
> pioneerisloud... 3000W, seriously? Past the point of diminishing returns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I guess if you really want that extra 5dB or so lol.


Yes 3000w RMS. How else am I going to power 3x Fi Q 12's?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes 3000w RMS. How else am I going to power 3x Fi Q 12's?










how much db are you getting out of that? and how much distortion?

btw how much distortion is even good? 5% or less?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


how much db are you getting out of that? and how much distortion?

btw how much distortion is even good? 5% or less?


Right NOW, I'm hitting around 135dB at 40Hz due to the cabin gain in my car. I hit the 27Hz note in Put On fluidly though. And that's just with a single Type R 12" off 300w RMS.

I don't have the Fi's yet. I won't have them for quite some time, and I'll likely change my design again by then. I still have motor work and body work to do first







.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Right NOW, I'm hitting around 135dB at 40Hz due to the cabin gain in my car. I hit the 27Hz note in Put On fluidly though. And that's just with a single Type R 12" off 300w RMS.

I don't have the Fi's yet. I won't have them for quite some time, and I'll likely change my design again by then. I still have motor work and body work to do first







.


That's damn good SPL's for music imo. I still don't get how i can push 120db at 20Hz with no distortion and only 400 watts lol.

some day later on down the road, in my mom's old 93 DSM eclipse in which I'll upgrade, I'll stick two 15 inch monster subs in it, possibly the TC sounds 15 inch drivers, along with a new 4G63 2L motor which will be rebuilt, Turbo'd like none other. I may do an AWD conversion seeing as this is the cleanest 93 Eclipse Iv'e laid my eyes on in years, and I grew up in it.

I might stick a crappy 12 inch sub in my 1997 Buick riviera, problem is most cheap subs sound like crap. Funny how if the engine of the 3800 series II is rebuilt properly and turbo'd, you can get from 400-up to 700whp. This makes me wonder why GM never made a supercar out of the Bonneville. I don't see myself upgrading the Rivvy too much. I'll just drive it till it falls apart


----------



## Darkapoc

It's all dependent on the box, you can make the worlds worst driver sound like god built it himself.
The 2 12" Re SE sub run about a 138-141 :/ Need to build a new box for them but don't have the money for it.Trying to convince my brother to get a new amp cheapo crunch 1200.2 sounds like crap, got it for like 50 bucks.


----------



## deathconfess

I would like to join!!! I have a Sony MU-TE-KI 1000W RMS Trance PRO.


----------



## spice003

1000W RMS lol thats pretty funny:lachen:


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12057253*
> MDF is just the most common used type of material for enclosures. There's a really high density wood that's really expensive that's actually better. However, what it is escapes my mind right now (I want to say Ash, but I know that's not right).
> 
> And you don't need 1" thick material for speakers, or even a subwoofer. 3/4" is more than enough, 1/2" for less powered drivers is fine even. You don't need 1" thick material until you break over 1000w RMS on a subwoofer honestly.


Yes you are correct to a point. When you say 3/4inch is more than enough for a sub woofer, you are talking low end junk correct? Car audio usually uses this because its cheap and sound quality and good bass does not matter. Loudness is the only thing on the mind.

As for home audio, anything less than 3/4inch for a sub woofer is unacceptable. Also bookshelf speakers should be minimum 3/4inch. Less resonance and wasted energy in the box will result in a better sound, not to mention louder. Think about it, if your box is vibrating, then that energy is being wasted instead of moving air.

Currently my sub woofer is using double laminated 3/4inch mdf for all sides so 1.5 inch. And the front baffle is 2.25 inches. This is only a 18, 1000watt sub.

Ever wonder why more expensive speakers and sub woofers are much heavier and use thicker wood or in some cases metal?

Also your misconception that more wattage means its needs a bigger box is wrong. Our where did you find this information? The sub woofers I build even at 150watt use nothing less that 3/4 with heavy bracing to compensate for weaker walls. There is too much vibration and resonance in the box with anything less.

Again, this is home audio were SQ and response matters. For car audio your theory may be correct, but for the home audio DIY or buyer, its not.


----------



## Darkapoc

Plenty of CAR audio can be used in home theater and have nice flat response curves actually, if you know how to design proper boxes.
3/4 inch for BOOKSHELVES will always be overkill unless you have put in a dedicated low frequency driver which usually is only done with TOWERS(in which case yeah 3/4 inch is great to be using)
Especially when using under 20 watts of power, 20 watts isn't going to be bending too much 5/8 or 1/2 inch bookshelves they're small enough to need minimal bracing on the side panels.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12097687*
> Plenty of CAR audio can be used in home theater and have nice flat response curves actually, if you know how to design proper boxes.
> 3/4 inch for BOOKSHELVES will always be overkill unless you have put in a dedicated low frequency driver which usually is only done with TOWERS(in which case yeah 3/4 inch is great to be using)
> Especially when using under 20 watts of power, 20 watts isn't going to be bending too much 5/8 or 1/2 inch bookshelves they're small enough to need minimal bracing on the side panels.


That and if you design a subwoofer box correctly, 3/4" is usually enough until you start getting into big power.


----------



## deathconfess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spice003;12096721*
> 1000W RMS lol thats pretty funny:lachen:


seriously... 4x250w... i dont think your very farmiliar with the MU-TE-KI systems, some reach up to 5000 watts. however my system was only $800, some of the MU-TE-KI systems reach thousands of dollars.

check this system. 7.2 channel 1600w. besides, its not like i have a $50 logitec system >.> lol


----------



## SUPER PISSED

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deathconfess*


seriously... 4x250w... i dont think your very farmiliar with the MU-TE-KI systems, some reach up to 5000 watts. however my system was only $800, some of the MU-TE-KI systems reach thousands of dollars.

check this system. 7.2 channel 1600w. besides, its not like i have a $50 logitec system >.> lol


lolnope


----------



## LukeG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deathconfess*


seriously... 4x250w... i dont think your very farmiliar with the MU-TE-KI systems, some reach up to 5000 watts. however my system was only $800, some of the MU-TE-KI systems reach thousands of dollars.

check this system. 7.2 channel 1600w. besides, its not like i have a $50 logitec system >.> lol


http://emotiva.com/xpa1.shtm

Notice the 75lbs? and the size? So you still think that little thing can do nearly that? Do not fall for false ratings. Its more like under 50watts.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


Plenty of CAR audio can be used in home theater and have nice flat response curves actually, if you know how to design proper boxes.
3/4 inch for BOOKSHELVES will always be overkill unless you have put in a dedicated low frequency driver which usually is only done with TOWERS(in which case yeah 3/4 inch is great to be using)
Especially when using under 20 watts of power, 20 watts isn't going to be bending too much 5/8 or 1/2 inch bookshelves they're small enough to need minimal bracing on the side panels.


Yes I know this. I use a FiQ18. Would never use pioneer, kicker etc though. Fi just makes great products. The box still vibrates slightly with the thickness I use. I would make it even thicker still and more bracing if I could re build it.

A experience DIY would know, yes you can make speakers and sub woofers with small walls and bracing. But if you are looking for a good sounding, high end, sub woofer or speaker, A heavily braced, and thick box is needed if cost is no issue.


----------



## Darkapoc

I resent that my 15 inch cvr for HT use has superb sound quality, for movies that is.
For some reason I've found that the lower budget subs from high end companies usually work better for HT use.(the high end stuff is usually directed at SPL).
I also still prefer polypropylene and injected cones to just basic paper or pulp(Pulp still has it's place). They make for very lightweight sturdy cones.

Wish FI never came to be and RE stayed going >,<.
Your q should have great sound quality as well, there are always exceptions to stereo types (get it STEREO types? ).


----------



## BLAUcopter

Just hooked up my new Z506 Logitech's.

Sound great compared to my old X - 530's POP POP POP!!


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathconfess;12099222*
> seriously... 4x250w... i dont think your very farmiliar with the MU-TE-KI systems, some reach up to 5000 watts. however my system was only $800, some of the MU-TE-KI systems reach thousands of dollars.
> 
> check this system. 7.2 channel 1600w. besides, its not like i have a $50 logitec system >.> lol


More isn't always better...

(me) --->







________________________:sniper: <--- (sony's marketing)


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


More isn't always better...

(me) --->







________________________







<--- (sony's marketing)



Quote:



seriously... 4x250w... i dont think your very farmiliar with the MU-TE-KI systems, some reach up to 5000 watts. however my system was only $800, some of the MU-TE-KI systems reach thousands of dollars.

check this system. 7.2 channel 1600w. besides, its not like i have a $50 logitec system >.> lol



Exactly you bought something that uses the same cheap drivers that a cheap longie would use just a little bigger. Packaged them with a cheap amp and use particle board for the cabs gave it a hifi logo and moved the decimal on the price. Then its down to the consumer how dosent know its bad till they hear something thats way better. That pc world link about the 7500 says one very big red flag about the system 
Quote:



lacks overall clarity


 for 1400 you should be able to get that. Sony though the bait out and you took it hook line and sinker. Theres a lot of stuff out there in the sub $1000 range thats amazing this is not on that list.


----------



## thecheeseofmanynames

Tannoy Reveal 501a + Allison Al8


----------



## Liighthead

hey got a question.

should i buy a 2.0/2.1 type thing.. with a amp ect all done n ready togo

OR

should i buy some speakers and make a box? 
like 6.5" high 
and maby 2 x 8" mids? idk depends what they got n for what price ect. pretty tight budget lol

but yeah what should i do? get speakers and make a custom box or just buy it already done ecT?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LukeG*


http://emotiva.com/xpa1.shtm

Notice the 75lbs? and the size? So you still think that little thing can do nearly that? Do not fall for false ratings. Its more like under 50watts.


you forgot to mention that Sony makes complete garbage speakers which tissue flimsy excursion and slap names in your face like Kevlar woofers, thousands of watts, when in fact, they are just garbage.

and yeah, my 50 pound NAD T751 receiver only puts out 60 watts a channel, this dude is an idiot, lol.


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


hey got a question.

should i buy a 2.0/2.1 type thing.. with a amp ect all done n ready togo

OR

should i buy some speakers and make a box? 
like 6.5" high 
and maby 2 x 8" mids? idk depends what they got n for what price ect. pretty tight budget lol

but yeah what should i do? get speakers and make a custom box or just buy it already done ecT?


Building it yourself could warrant a little extra money depending on what you get, but building your own also yields the best results usually.
8 inch drivers would be fine for low frequency reproduction however a 6.5 inch for highs would be a bit larger than what's needed unless you want the 8 inch drivers to act as subs.
Shoot more around the 3- 4 inch range.


----------



## spice003

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


you forgot to mention that Sony makes complete garbage speakers which tissue flimsy excursion and slap names in your face like Kevlar woofers, thousands of watts, when in fact, they are just garbage.

and yeah, my 50 pound NAD T751 receiver only puts out 60 watts a channel, this dude is an idiot, lol.


sony sucks in the audio department except maybe their ES stuff. i started hating sony after i put a sony CD player in my car, it sounded like crap compared to a Pioneer deck that i had before. I actually have a emotiva XPA-3 and i know how heavy it is which is why i started laughing on the other page.


----------



## Darkapoc

Those hifi bookshelf systems are a joke Sony makes some decently respectable Receiver/amps.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;12121301*
> hey got a question.
> 
> should i buy a 2.0/2.1 type thing.. with a amp ect all done n ready togo
> 
> OR
> 
> should i buy some speakers and make a box?
> like 6.5" high
> and maby 2 x 8" mids? idk depends what they got n for what price ect. pretty tight budget lol
> 
> but yeah what should i do? get speakers and make a custom box or just buy it already done ecT?


Buy prebuilt ones unless you have a bunch of free time to figure out what you're getting yourself into. TBH unless you're an electrical engineer you'll have to spend a decent amount of time designing the speakers (mostly figuring out what to do) and they probably won't come out sounding as nice as something designed by professionals.

What is your budget?

I'd suggest building something from here.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


Building it yourself could warrant a little extra money depending on what you get, but building your own also yields the best results usually.
8 inch drivers would be fine for low frequency reproduction however a 6.5 inch for highs would be a bit larger than what's needed unless you want the 8 inch drivers to act as subs.
Shoot more around the 3- 4 inch range.


I'm told that building the crossover for 3 way systems is a pain in the ass and two way is usually a better idea.


----------



## Darkapoc

2 way is usually much easier.
But 3 way and up usually will provide for much better sound quality becase each speaker will have its' own separate range to recreate, instead of reacreating out of it's intended area.


----------



## dejanribic

Hey everyone, i need some help!

I'm buying a new 5.1 system and I have no idea what I should be aiming for! I have about 800 euros to spend for the system + receiver, and the options I have avaible can be seen here:

http://www.4audio.rs/upload/File/4Au...bar%202010.pdf

http://www.audioplus.co.rs/wp-conten...28.05.2010.pdf

I've been recommended the following:

AVR - Yamaha Rx v 367

Speaker Systems:

-Canton Movie 80 CX
-JBL SCS 178
-Harman Kardon HKTS11 BQ

I'm leaning towards the HKs, however I dont know if I can get full potential with that receiver.

Source will be mainly 5.1 DTS Bluray rips in .mkv format from the HTPC via HDMI and PS3 Blurays...

I appreciate any and all input!


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12132983*
> 2 way is usually much easier.
> But 3 way and up usually will provide for much better sound quality becase each speaker will have its' own separate range to recreate, instead of reacreating out of it's intended area.


why would that matter if the woofer's intended range was 50-2000Hz and the tweeters intended range was 2000-22,000Hz?


----------



## Darkapoc

Just because they CAN recreate those frequencies doesn't mean they do so well, mixing speakers together with others specifically designed for that frequency range Will clear up distortion and should greatly increase the amount of power the speaker can take by taking away said distortion from each individual speaker.


----------



## Alorand

I was told you guys are the local audio experts.

For once I decided to invest in the quality of audio that my computer is putting out. So I bought Infinity TSS-800 speakers, and then learned that the amp in the subwoofer only powers the subwoofer, and I need a receiver to power my speakers.

Right now I am planning to buy Onkyo TX-SR508 7.1-Channel Receiver, and wondering if there is a difference in audio quality between using the motherboard's S/PDIF optical out or buying an audio card.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alorand*


I was told you guys are the local audio experts.

For once I decided to invest in the quality of audio that my computer is putting out. So I bought Infinity TSS-800 speakers, and then learned that the amp in the subwoofer only powers the subwoofer, and I need a receiver to power my speakers.

Right now I am planning to buy Onkyo TX-SR508 7.1-Channel Receiver, and wondering if there is a difference in audio quality between using the motherboard's S/PDIF optical out or buying an audio card.


If you're using a digital signal.....a digital signal is a digital signal. It's all 1's and 0's. Onboard vs. audio card will be the same. The only difference is the features between them at that point.

Only time I ever recommend using an audio card is when you're using the analogue outputs, and speakers that need it (again, still using analogue outputs).


----------



## Alorand

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Only time I ever recommend using an audio card is when you're using the analogue outputs, and speakers that need it (again, still using analogue outputs).


Thank you, that means since I will not be buying a sound card I actually have money to buy a receiver.

Any advice, or links to guides, on good receivers under $200, or what to look for when buying speaker wires and cables?


----------



## H3||scr3am

for wires and cables, I'd suggest checking monoprice for speaker wire (good quality at a good price) and for HDMI, and other cables I like bluejeanscable myself...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...02&cp_id=10239
www.bluejeanscable.com


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Alorand*


Thank you, that means since I will not be buying a sound card I actually have money to buy a receiver.

Any advice, or links to guides, on good receivers under $200, or what to look for when buying speaker wires and cables?


Receivers, I'd say just shop around and see what you can find. Onkyo, Denon, Pioneer (to a lesser extent), Yamaha, they're all good. Just find one that has the features and hookups you need, and go with it







.

As far as wires and cable goes.....you'll want probably 16ga speaker wire. Doesn't matter what brand or anything. Only thing that matters is the size (written as "gauge or awg"). 16ga / awg wire should be sufficient. No real reason to go bigger than that. The smaller the number, the bigger the wire is. 12awg is bigger than 16awg. But I wouldn't go with anything smaller than 16 though.

Your signal cables...again, if its a digital signal, then its a digital signal. A $1 cable is the same as a $2000 cable. It's just transmitting 1's and 0's. Even with analogue cables, its not NEARLY as big of an impact as people claim. The biggest impact is going to be speaker wire size. And that completely depends on how long the wires will be. I said 16ga assuming it'll be 20 feet runs or less.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


for wires and cables, I'd suggest checking monoprice for speaker wire (good quality at a good price) and fro HDMI, and other cables I like bluejeanscable myself...

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...02&cp_id=10239
www.bluejeanscable.com


And this







.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12160287*
> Receivers, I'd say just shop around and see what you can find. Onkyo, Denon, Pioneer (to a lesser extent), Yamaha, they're all good. Just find one that has the features and hookups you need, and go with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As far as wires and cable goes.....you'll want probably 16ga speaker wire. Doesn't matter what brand or anything. Only thing that matters is the size (written as "gauge or awg"). 16ga / awg wire should be sufficient. No real reason to go bigger than that. The smaller the number, the bigger the wire is. 12awg is bigger than 16awg. But I wouldn't go with anything smaller than 16 though.
> 
> Your signal cables...again, if its a digital signal, then its a digital signal. A $1 cable is the same as a $2000 cable. It's just transmitting 1's and 0's. Even with analogue cables, its not NEARLY as big of an impact as people claim. The biggest impact is going to be speaker wire size. And that completely depends on how long the wires will be. I said 16ga assuming it'll be 20 feet runs or less.
> 
> And this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You forgot marantz, NAD, and Rotel









www.audiogon.com


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am;12160300*
> You forgot marantz, NAD, and Rotel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.audiogon.com


Aren't those all considerably more expensive though?


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12160319*
> Aren't those all considerably more expensive though?


hence the used market link







I got my used marantz at a reasonable price.


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:



Originally Posted by *deathconfess*


seriously... 4x250w... i dont think your very farmiliar with the MU-TE-KI systems, some reach up to 5000 watts. however my system was only $800, some of the MU-TE-KI systems reach thousands of dollars.

check this system. 7.2 channel 1600w. besides, its not like i have a $50 logitec system >.> lol


I can guarantee you that's not true 5000W RMS or even 1000W RMS. I LOL'ed at the PC World review. They don't know anything about speakers.


----------



## Darkapoc

Just read up and you said you wanted a 7.1...You're going to want a higher budget than roughly 200... 200 can get you my stereo receiver that's roughly .08% thd 100wpc and basic inputs.
That being said I love the sound quality and power this thing can put out I have the older model str-de135.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


You forgot marantz, NAD, and Rotel









www.audiogon.com










Dude everyone here says i got ripped off paying $200 for my NAD T751 receiver and that it's garbage and that any $200 yamaha receiver today will rape it.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


Dude everyone here says i got ripped off paying $200 for my NAD T751 receiver and that it's garbage and that any $200 yamaha receiver today will rape it.


I don't recall anyone but you saying that TBH














.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12184519*
> I don't recall anyone but you saying that TBH
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It was said a while ago.







Probably like 3 months ago.


----------



## Darkapoc

What's the THD and power output on it?
That's all I care about I hate all these fancy featured ones, all I want is a 7.2 surround amp with under .08% THD 100 WPC and rca level inputs to go from phono to rca from the back of my computer.

Everything else(eq, crossover, decoder) I will get something else to do the job.


----------



## LingLing1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12186629*
> What's the THD and power output on it?
> That's all I care about I hate all these fancy featured ones, all I want is a 7.2 surround amp with under .08% THD 100 WPC and rca level inputs to go from phono to rca from the back of my computer.
> 
> Everything else(eq, crossover, decoder) I will get something else to do the job.


THD is not as important a number as some would lead you to believe. Basically any modern amp (that isn't tube powered) will already have THD far lower than you could hear.

EDIT: BTW I just have to address a point you made earlier... 2.1 or 2.0 will ALWAYS be king for music reproduction. Period.

Of course if you were talking about stuffing more drivers into a cabinet in a 2.0 setup, yes, that and an equally sophisticated crossover will sound very nice.

For movies, though, 5.1 and 7.1 are really cool and immersive.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LingLing1337;12186643*
> THD is not as important a number as some would lead you to believe. Basically any modern amp (that isn't tube powered) will already have THD far lower than you could hear.
> 
> EDIT: BTW I just have to address a point you made earlier... 2.1 or 2.0 will ALWAYS be king for music reproduction. Period.
> 
> Of course if you were talking about stuffing more drivers into a cabinet in a 2.0 setup, yes, that and an equally sophisticated crossover will sound very nice.
> 
> For movies, though, 5.1 and 7.1 are really cool and immersive.


My understanding is that in 5.1 setups as well as 7.2 setups use the same channel for the side and the rear for the 7.1 setup which is basically the same as an old A/B channel setup in the old stereo receivers for the rear. I could have misundersood, but I thought that the rear and side channels in a 7.1 setup are completely the same signal from the receiver


----------



## LingLing1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12186842*
> My understanding is that in 5.1 setups as well as 7.2 setups use the same channel for the side and the rear for the 7.1 setup which is basically the same as an old A/B channel setup in the old stereo receivers for the rear. I could have misundersood, but I thought that the rear and side channels in a 7.1 setup are completely the same signal from the receiver


I'm not into HT so I wouldn't really know. But I should think that, by now, the BluRay standard supports and utilizes at least 5.1 separate channels of sound.


----------



## Darkapoc

.08% is just what I hold as a standard, Anything below 2 really I can't tell the difference. I just like the lower number since I run nothing but 4 ohm speakers in my systems
You can just turn off the surround/ side channels when listening to music and have nicer speakers for your front stage which is what I would do anyways.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LingLing1337*


I'm not into HT so I wouldn't really know. But I should think that, by now, the BluRay standard supports and utilizes at least 5.1 separate channels of sound.


I know for a fact that blu rays support 5.1 channels. You missed my point If that is your response, or I have not extrapolated the information in your response properly.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


.08% is just what I hold as a standard, Anything below 2 really I can't tell the difference. I just like the lower number since I run nothing but 4 ohm speakers in my systems
You can just turn off the surround/ side channels when listening to music and have nicer speakers for your front stage which is what I would do anyways.


You'd love my subwoofer if it worked properly then. It's a Velodyne ULD 18. +-3db ranges from 14Hz-85Hz. @20Hz it can push out 104db with 0.5% THD, or 120db with under 3% db @ 20Hz. It has the same exact acoustical specs as a Velodyne DD18 servo subwoofer, problem is...my servo isn't working properly









At this point I'm seriously considering messing with my 400 watt class b ULD series II power servo controller and attempt to delete my servo function entirely. If that fails, then I'll first get an LMS ultra 5400 driver, then put that in my velodyne box, then put a 1000 watt or more damn good plate amp inside my velodyne box, seal the servo hole, then I can control the sub and plug it in from the side. I'd also re finish and get the box air brushed with some type of art if I did that. I'm thinking metallic grey and some time of dragon art and a badass TC sounds logo of sorts air brushed on it.

Would the LMS ultra in the same box sound just as good as my current setup? Would I be able to obtain the same acoustical output with 1000 watts into that driver and still get under 1% distortion while doing so? I'm aiming for 120+ DB with hopefully under 1% distortion. can it do that with 1000 watts RMS?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Corey:
You'll need to check the parameters between both your Velodyne and the TLS subwoofer, to make sure that they'll work correctly in the same box. I'll bet the TLS won't work as well in that box. Also, you will have a VERY hard time pushing 1000w RMS on a standard wall outlet. Period.


----------



## chinesekiwi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LingLing1337*


THD is not as important a number as some would lead you to believe. Basically any modern amp (that isn't tube powered) will already have THD far lower than you could hear.


Not to mention that the speakers will cause far more THD than the source ever will. IM or IMD (Intermodulation Distortion) is a far more important measurement for sound quality.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Corey:
You'll need to check the parameters between both your Velodyne and the TLS subwoofer, to make sure that they'll work correctly in the same box. I'll bet the TLS won't work as well in that box. Also, you will have a VERY hard time pushing 1000w RMS on a standard wall outlet. Period.


Not true i run my double 18s of 1 15a outlet at many venues and that amp is pushing 1300WRMS and currently in my studio i have 2 800wrms powered 18s in one outlet. I have run a volt meter on both setups to insure the line voltage is good and it never drops below 120v so that means the amps are puteing out there full wattage. It really depends on the amp.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesekiwi*


Not to mention that the speakers will cause far more THD than the source ever will. IM or IMD (Intermodulation Distortion) is a far more important measurement for sound quality.


That's why I listed THD specs on the actual acoustical output of what the driver itself is capable of, if it worked properly









Then again, .05% THD is completely pointless for any application possible.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Corey:
You'll need to check the parameters between both your Velodyne and the TLS subwoofer, to make sure that they'll work correctly in the same box. I'll bet the TLS won't work as well in that box. Also, you will have a VERY hard time pushing 1000w RMS on a standard wall outlet. Period.


Wall outlets put out 1500 watts RMS easily, more if you upgrade them. I'm not going to be pushing 120+db all the time, however, I DO want that potential. I want to be able to push out 120db with no audiable distortion for DAYS and NOT HAVE IT BREAK, no matter how hard I try to push the driver. I hate the fact that if anything touches my servo cord at all, it will pop out and i literally need to take the driver out half the time when it does and touch the accelerometer conductors with my finger to pop the servo back on when it does pop out. I have a feeling I seriously damaged my driver by now by popping it so badly from just playing music under 80 db at all times. I need to take out this acellerometer servo function and if it sounds just as good, I don't care, if it sounds worse, then I will invest in an LMS ultra 18" DVC driver and hope it can put out the same specs as my Velodyne driver.


----------



## coreyL

Ok, seriously. I have looked for over 10 hours online for ANY INFORMATION on the velodyne ULD 18 servo controller regarding how I would trick the servo amplifier in thinking there is no servo so i could essentially power any sub driver like a normal rackmount amp with it. If I were to call up velodyne myself they would not help and tell me to trade my ULD 18 in for a DD 18 and just give me a discount on the newer DD18 subwoofer.

Is anyone going to help me or do I really have to buy a new amp to actually keep using my ULD 18 subwoofer?

If I do buy a new amp, where could I get a 400 watt or more, class B or better amp for relitively cheap, how could I use the parts inside my ULD 18 amp and just rebuild it into a regular non servo 400 watt class b amp. Could it be possible to just put a bigger transformer inside the current setup and get more than 400 watts out of the same circuit boards? I ask this because my ULD 18 driver could be damaged from popping out so much, If it is, repairing the driver alone would cost me at least $400, if not more I know that for a fact; so if the velodyne driver IS damaged, I will be either getting a maelstorm 18 inch woofer, possibly some JBL 18 inch woofer from 20 years ago in which the velodyne driver was designed from based off of what i read in the stereophile review or an LMS ultra 5400.

I am not even expecting any help and the last audio forum I tried registering at wouldn't activate my account which REALLY pissed me off so I decided not to mess with other forums.

Also, If chat worked, I would have gotten much better decent help by now. I still blame the mods for that. I won't even be getting any decent help on this. Me having lent my soldering iron to someone, I can not re solder the rca input of the wobbly servo connector then superglue it down and try and see if that helps at all to fix the servo which I don't think it will help, but when the rca input moved at all including from vibrations from bass, it popped the driver. At some point the servo worked wrong. I know this because when I first got the sub, If I tapped the driver when the servo was off, it sounded like a bass thunk, with the servo on, it sounded like a hollow, much higher piched knock on wood almost, then the driver would oscilate. later on after I had ******ed amounts of servo problems with many different times of the driver popping out very violently, tapping the driver with the servo on barely sounds like the old hollow knock and much more like a bass thump and the driver will not oscilate at all from tapping it anymore

but at this current moment, I can not even get the servo to turn on, which means the sub will not work at ALL anymore. The servo is so propietary that I could literally not get a random ULD 18 driver and either use that with my specific ULD servo amplifier, or use a different ULD amp with my specific driver. Each driver will literally only work with the servo in the amp specifically hand built for that specific driver with matching serial numbers, otherwise the servo will not work at all. this is why I say I'd like to just delete the servo function somehow from my amp and use it like any ordinary rackmount amp. If the driver is damaged, then I will probably end up getting an LMS ultra 5400 driver, slapping that in my current velodyne box, then I will somehow try to figure out how to use my class b servo amp with it by disabling the servo functionality and just connect the banana plugs to the same spot on the sub inputs connected this time to the LMS ultra voicecoil with no servo cord. I'm hoping a bigger transformer will get more than 400 watts out of the same amp and have the ability to get the same or better acoustical output out of an LMS ultra 5400 driver in the same box with the same amp hopefully with more wattage coming out of it.

TL;DR VERSION HERE.

Priorities:

1: fix the servo

2: delete the servo functionality and hopefully my driver isn't damaged and works perfectly with the same amp, no questions

3: my driver is damaged, I must delete servo functionality as well as replace my driver most likely with an LMS ultra 5400 and hopefully if it comes to that, a bigger transformer will get more wattage out of the same amp, the sub box will be refinished if it comes to that as well


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12181914*
> Dude everyone here says i got ripped off paying $200 for my NAD T751 receiver and that it's garbage and that any $200 yamaha receiver today will rape it.


Well they'd be dead wrong, their older stuff is SOLID. I have a 225wpc stereo power amp, thing is a brick... it's beastly. Though I should probably replace some components in it for longevities sake. (was an old schools PA amp, pretty grungy interior)









But then I swapped over to a Rotel RB 991 (200Wpc) It looked nicer, and was a piece I'd been eying for a while...


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


Well they'd be dead wrong, their older stuff is SOLID. I have a 225wpc stereo power amp, thing is a brick... it's beastly. Though I should probably replace some components in it for longevities sake. (was an old schools PA amp, pretty grungy interior)









But then I swapped over to a Rotel RB 991 (200Wpc) It looked nicer, and was a piece I'd been eying for a while...


Yeah it weighs like at least 40 pounds.

the problem is my receiver has a pretty bad buzz on it that I can't get rid of, and paying somone to repair it will cost more than I paid for it. It did not buzz at all when I bought it, but had the problem before and the previous owner sid he fixed it.

apparently not.


----------



## H3||scr3am

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


Yeah it weighs like at least 40 pounds.

the problem is my receiver has a pretty bad buzz on it that I can't get rid of, and paying somone to repair it will cost more than I paid for it. It did not buzz at all when I bought it, but had the problem before and the previous owner sid he fixed it.

apparently not.


generally a grounding or feedback issue... you'd need to open 'er up... check for loose ground connections, sometimes it's a wing nut style setup grounded to the chassis, and just need's a bit of tightening up...

another cheap way to get stuff fixed, if you have some cahones, is go to your local hackerspace, and ask for some help diagnosing the issue... if you have some competent EEs, or the like, they'll get you sorted pretty quick. I fix stuff at mine all the time


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *H3||scr3am*


generally a grounding or feedback issue... you'd need to open 'er up... check for loose ground connections, sometimes it's a wing nut style setup grounded to the chassis, and just need's a bit of tightening up...

another cheap way to get stuff fixed, if you have some cahones, is go to your local hackerspace, and ask for some help diagnosing the issue... if you have some competent EEs, or the like, they'll get you sorted pretty quick. I fix stuff at mine all the time










Heh, thanks for the tip. I'll open it up sometime in the next day or so










One of my main problems is the only person alive I personally know that knows more about audio than I do is extremely quirky and I can't exactly have him diagnose my equipment on demand. He happened to diagnose and repair drivers for Bang and Olufson, and Velodyne that I know of a long time ago.

Seeing as his store is no longer in operation, there is literally nowhere I know of to actually audition legit hifi audio equipment anymore. I didnt get to know him while his store was in operation for very long









He sold things like Mcintosh, Gallo, Quad, NAD, Marrantz, B&W, some klipsch, PSB, Infinity, Focal/JMlab, Velodyne, AR, Harmon and Kardon. many more actual legit Hifi brands, a lot of which I can't think of at the top of my head and even more that I've never even heard of.

I never got to hear anything Hifi aside from a Velodyne DD 10, my velodyne, some ATC 5 inch $4,000 pair of bookshelves, some PSB image 4t's, Gallo 3.1 system and I have no idea what the hell sub went with it in his wall, and some JMlab micro utopia's. I wish I got to hear JMlabs with the beryllium tweeters







I heard a story of how the guy who actually designed the beryllium tweeters visited his house and gave him a pair of tweeters what costed $2,000 each, got to hold the tweeters in their box myself, they were awesome.

but Yeah, I don't even consider my crappy M-audio BX5A studio monitors HiFi at this point.

I have never even got to audition klipsch, the only Hifi speaker's Iv'e ever heard are listed there. I do not consider the polk audio towers I heard at a mall once HiFi. they sounded like crap. Iv'e heard klipsch speakers ONCE but it was barely audible so I couldn't actually gauge them well, they were overhead in a store. I do not count that as an audition.

I need to find a better way to keep learning about audio. I can't seem to find something that works out other than pestering my friend's dad once in a while.


----------



## drjoey1500

About the servo... Half the point of why that particular sub is so good is the servo from what I could tell. The whole point is that they make servos specific to the driver. It wouldn't be very effective if you were using a different servo.

Dude, I'm serious. Try an audio forum. Any forum that could help you out will generally move much much slower than OCN so you have to have some patience. Obviously none of the few of us know so try several other forums first before you scrap the whole thing. The reason everything is so specific and you have all the servos and stuff that need to be there is because that sub was designed so that all the different parts work together. Sure you could buy some random driver with good specs, drop it in a random box and it will probably sound really good, but you yourself said your sub is worth a lot and was obviously designed very well.

If you got BSODs every time you boot and could barely post, would you scrap your whole rig, or spend hours and hours trying to fix it?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12225473*
> About the servo... Half the point of why that particular sub is so good is the servo from what I could tell. The whole point is that they make servos specific to the driver. It wouldn't be very effective if you were using a different servo.
> 
> Dude, I'm serious. Try an audio forum. Any forum that could help you out will generally move much much slower than OCN so you have to have some patience. Obviously none of the few of us know so try several other forums first before you scrap the whole thing. The reason everything is so specific and you have all the servos and stuff that need to be there is because that sub was designed so that all the different parts work together. Sure you could buy some random driver with good specs, drop it in a random box and it will probably sound really good, but you yourself said your sub is worth a lot and was obviously designed very well.
> 
> If you got BSODs every time you boot and could barely post, would you scrap your whole rig, or spend hours and hours trying to fix it?


My earlier post already said each driver is designed for a specific amp hand made. They even used to puncture tiny holes in certain spots on the driver cone to further tune the performance of the driver. The thing about the LMS ultra 5400 that appeals to me is even pushing in 1000 watts rms trying to rape the driver, it won't do jack. I'd like to have an indestructible sub. 100db is much more than enough SPL for me, but it's annoying when 70db SPL literally broke my velodyne, and the guy that sold it to me just assumed I abused it, overdriving it all the time. I never really cranked up the sub other than trying to test it, making sure it won't pop out if it does get that high. anyway, it's arbitrary to go to my friend's dad for any advice other than bringing him the amp and trying to get him to convert it to an ordinary amp with no servo which i can just plug directly into the voice coil of my sub, no questions asked. He doesn't actually have the equipment to fix the servo he told me.

The hours and hours ive spent messing with my sub only revealed a few things. My amp works in the sense that the amplification itself works, which means something in the servo circuit is messed up, as well as the rca input of the servo connection to the amp itself is loose on the soldering connection and needs to be re soldered as well as glued down into place. that only solves part of my problem. I will also need to figure out why the servo circuit itself is messed up and how to fix that which is such proprietary technology in of itself that maybe one in a million techs cold even help me and the one person I know that can help me no longer has the equipment required to properly diagnose the circuitry of the servo. He was servicing these when I was in my moms stomach, literally.

Other news reveals that I ******edly broke my NAD T751 I paid $200 for by trying to plug a fan wire back in and having something short out, frying stuff on a PCB which I have no idea to diagnose, so It's pretty much useless trash to me now. a new fuse did not fix my problem, at all. I will not start to use my realtek ALC 889 audio pre ampped signal to drive my active studio monitors from the left and right channel and I hooked up my velodyne to the center/sub channel which actually works.

by the way, the velodyne sounded alot better when the servo actually worked. I had to end up un plugging the accelerometer cables out of the pcb of the servo circuit or it will not work at all, when I once plugged that header back in opposite on accident, all that happened is the driver oscilated very slowly do to the servo. I have no idea why the sub even works with the accelerometer cable unplugged at all but it does. The rca servo input seems to work when the sub is set very low and doesn't vibrate too much after I applied about an hour of probably 60 pounds of pressure on the rca input downwards so that the servo circuit could at least be semi fooled.

this is really starting to piss me off. I'm going to have to buy a new sound card since my opamps are dying everywhere on my auzentech, a new receiver, and possibly a new amp to drive my sub driver, maybe a new driver as well since it doesn't sound nearly as good without a working servo.

I'm honestly surprised that at the hundreds of audiophiles that build speakers who are much more intelligent that I am can not seem to help with the servo problem, I'm giving up completely on my NAD receiver and I'll just donate it to my friend's dad to fix and re sell for pure profit on his end. He's given me a $200+ gallo nucleus driver amongst other things for free anyway.

So I guess the priority goes: New receiver, fix the sub up, new sound card, energy RC 50 speakers, a suitable center, use bx5a's as rears for a while

then get the DSLR camera I'm looking for which ill most likely end up being a $700 sony camera which has limited flash attachment options but takes full 1080P video as well as has a better sensor than many expensive DSLR's in low lighting conditions apparently.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Corey:
If you're wanting an indestructible subwoofer, you're going about it the wrong way. Your current Velodyne is a good sub if it was in good shape. If you're looking at replacing the driver in it though, you will honestly be 100x better off replacing the entire thing. If you need help designing the box for it, let me know.

Also, the TC Sounds subwoofer that you keep talking about, likely WILL NOT sound right in your Velodyne box. So you can try to forget about that. A sheet of 3/4" MDF is $30. Add some screws, glue, paint / veneer / carpet, and you've got yourself a box made just FOR the subwoofer of your choice. Some will say 3/4" isn't enough. But with the proper bracing it'll be fine. If you'd rather go 1", it's not much more than 3/4" anyway. I mean seriously, what's an extra $50 on top of a $900 subwoofer already? You might as well build the right box for it to start with.

Seriously....if you're going to go with a new sub, do it right the first time







. A box isn't expensive to make. And I can help you with the plans if you'd like. If for whatever reason I can't help you, I can point you in the right direction.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12227460*
> Corey:
> If you're wanting an indestructible subwoofer, you're going about it the wrong way. Your current Velodyne is a good sub if it was in good shape. If you're looking at replacing the driver in it though, you will honestly be 100x better off replacing the entire thing. If you need help designing the box for it, let me know.
> 
> Also, the TC Sounds subwoofer that you keep talking about, likely WILL NOT sound right in your Velodyne box. So you can try to forget about that. A sheet of 3/4" MDF is $30. Add some screws, glue, paint / veneer / carpet, and you've got yourself a box made just FOR the subwoofer of your choice. Some will say 3/4" isn't enough. But with the proper bracing it'll be fine. If you'd rather go 1", it's not much more than 3/4" anyway. I mean seriously, what's an extra $50 on top of a $900 subwoofer already? You might as well build the right box for it to start with.
> 
> Seriously....if you're going to go with a new sub, do it right the first time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . A box isn't expensive to make. And I can help you with the plans if you'd like. If for whatever reason I can't help you, I can point you in the right direction.


that's not a bad idea







I'll let you know if I buy the driver. I can use my velodyne as a benchmark for the tc sounds driver. I know my sub box is in great shape aside from a few dings and scratches. The sub driver itself seems in good shape. It was just re surrounded, but I can't push more than 90db without clipping really bad, the servo function is completely shot which means I can hear some distortion now. This sub according to it's stereophile review can easily push out 120db without audible distortion, and mine clips out at 70-80db. Somethings wrong here.

This is why I'm going for the route of replacing stuff. I might end up going with the tc sounds driver and build it's own box like you say. How difficult is it to build a good sub box with some mdf? I have a 3/4 sheet somewhere in my garage. I'm not sure if it's moisture damaged yet.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12228617*
> that's not a bad idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let you know if I buy the driver. I can use my velodyne as a benchmark for the tc sounds driver. I know my sub box is in great shape aside from a few dings and scratches. The sub driver itself seems in good shape. It was just re surrounded, but I can't push more than 90db without clipping really bad, the servo function is completely shot which means I can hear some distortion now. This sub according to it's stereophile review can easily push out 120db without audible distortion, and mine clips out at 70-80db. Somethings wrong here.
> 
> This is why I'm going for the route of replacing stuff. I might end up going with the tc sounds driver and build it's own box like you say. How difficult is it to build a good sub box with some mdf? I have a 3/4 sheet somewhere in my garage. I'm not sure if it's moisture damaged yet.


It's not difficult at all to build a box, assuming you know your way around a woodshop







. The designing is where things get tricky, just depends on the design you want to go with.


----------



## jarble

11 pages 2hrs and it is done. If you were missed, looked over, forgotten or just plain skipped let me know. If a pc setup slipped through once again let me know.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble;12240555*
> 11 pages 2hrs and it is done. If you were missed, looked over, forgotten or just plain skipped let me know. If a pc setup slipped through once again let me know.


You can add me for having M-audio BX5a's pre amped out from my computer as well as my velodyne ULD 18 pre amped out of the center/subwoofer channel because my NAD T751 had a pcb in it fry and buzzed anyway when it was working.

so basically analogue from my computer out to M-audio BX5a's with home made 3.5mm audio cables to rca female which my Bx5'a's plug into with RCA from the XLR output from the bx5a's. the ULD18 sub is connected to my analogue center channel with a home made 3.5mm cable going into the left channel (the sub pre out from my sound card basically) in a 2.1 setup at the moment.

oh wait, don't worry... a Logitech z2300 rapes my setup, LOL.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm not sure if anybody would have a use for it, but I've posted a gain setting tutorial in the Car Stereo fan club. The same principals SHOULD follow through to home audio. It might be worth a shot to take a look and see what you guys come up with on your HT setups







. I've used this on mine.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12253891*
> I'm not sure if anybody would have a use for it, but I've posted a gain setting tutorial in the Car Stereo fan club. The same principals SHOULD follow through to home audio. It might be worth a shot to take a look and see what you guys come up with on your HT setups
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I've used this on mine.


Awesome guide. I'll use that when/if I decide to build a subwoofer.

I had always thought as long as you cross over under 80Hz it'l be fine as long as the volume of the sub gain matches the output of the speakers. Was this incorrect, or if my speakers have a 55Hz bottom end, according to your guide, should I cross over my sub at 40-45Hz and the rolloff will extend it to 55Hz or so so the sub picks up directly where the speakers bottom out, or should they mesh some with frenquencies or what? because my velodyne ULD 18 has a mechanical rolloff of 85Hz exactly. I couldn't set the crossover of this sub if I tried, unless my sub pre out sets the cutoff frequency for the amp.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12254185*
> Awesome guide. I'll use that when/if I decide to build a subwoofer.
> 
> I had always thought as long as you cross over under 80Hz it'l be fine as long as the volume of the sub gain matches the output of the speakers. Was this incorrect, or if my speakers have a 55Hz bottom end, according to your guide, should I cross over my sub at 40-45Hz and the rolloff will extend it to 55Hz or so so the sub picks up directly where the speakers bottom out, or should they mesh some with frenquencies or what? because my velodyne ULD 18 has a mechanical rolloff of 85Hz exactly. I couldn't set the crossover of this sub if I tried, unless my sub pre out sets the cutoff frequency for the amp.


It's best to get your speakers to reach as low as they can cleanly and with decent output. And then have your sub pickup from that point down. Subwoofers are only designed (usually) to output 1-1.5 octaves of output cleanly. At least with car audio, this concept is a good guide for HT as well, but I'm not sure if it applies 100%.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12254251*
> It's best to get your speakers to reach as low as they can cleanly and with decent output. And then have your sub pickup from that point down. Subwoofers are only designed (usually) to output 1-1.5 octaves of output cleanly. At least with car audio, this concept is a good guide for HT as well, but I'm not sure if it applies 100%.


M-audio doesn't list THD % for it's bottom end frequency. is there any frequency measuring mic which is really acurate?

Also, someone help me find the best bang for my buck pre amplifier with hdmi 1.3a best newest hdmi inputs and output, complete lossless audio bit streaming, best HD video features, XRL balanced outputs, networking too.

http://www.amazon.com/product/dp/B001B0F2LU]Amazon.com: Marantz AV8003 Networking Preamplifier: Electronics[/URL]

basically I want all these features or better but as cheap as possible.


----------



## ciprianni

Hi. Can u add me to the club please? Here are the pics of my ghetto sound system.







It might not look the best but it sounds pretty good; at least to me.
2 x 12" Full range speakers & 1x 18" Subwoofer

http://img94.imageshack.us/i/dscf9122.jpg/

http://img651.imageshack.us/i/dscf9123o.jpg/

http://img717.imageshack.us/i/dscf9124v.jpg/


----------



## Darkapoc

Well it's probably loud. xD
Though you could probably do great things with a little extra money thrown at what 12s you use and a nice crossover.
I like it though








Custom built?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12278141*
> Well it's probably loud. xD
> Though you could probably do great things with a little extra money thrown at what 12s you use and a nice crossover.
> I like it though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom built?


Custom built owns


----------



## ciprianni

this is the schematic for the "tall" enclosures that i have build

http://www.visaton.com/en/bauvorschlaege/mehrwege/atlas_compact_mkv/bauanleitung.html

with little modifications. i didn't quite do it exactly as their schematic says because of lack of equipment nor a proper location. I have used different drivers and crossovers all together.

For the sub....i had schematic for that too but i can't find it. I know its 200 litres enclosure.
@Darkapoc - Any recomandation for a good tweeter, (or horn tweeter?), or whatever you think that might suit this build? (budget might be a problem)

PS: I have used MDF to build them. Didn't have the time to fully complete the sub yet. Still need to throw on it some handles and maybe some color.

Thanks


----------



## Darkapoc

I'd have to hear it to get an actual impression of what's lacking.


----------



## ciprianni

I don't think its really lacking anything, i just want a more crisp, clear treble.


----------



## Darkapoc

Titanium tweeters are pretty intense xD they hurt haha I prefer the sound of silk domes myself though, you'd just have to cross them accordingly.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12295778*
> Titanium tweeters are pretty intense xD they hurt haha I prefer the sound of silk domes myself though, you'd just have to cross them accordingly.


You think that's intense? Try a $2,000 JM Lab beryllium tweeter, lol.

But silk dome's are amazing quality none the less, and are dirt cheap for it. I love the non harsh, detailed and accurate sound the are able to produce.


----------



## coreyL

I need some sub help.






  Amazon.com: Pioneer TSSW251 Shallow Mount 10 Inch 800 Watts Subwoofer: Electronics
this is his old sub he just bought two of because his friend is obsessed with pioneer. he put them in a $30 wall mart partical board box which was half inch thick. it sounded like GARBAGE at high levels. Pioneer claimed 89 db but it clipped at under 60 db and sounded very distorted with a 400 watt dual amp. also pioneer claimed down to 20Hz response. It didn't get under 40Hz without clipping at any audible level. Now I have the utmost disgust with pioneer for lying so badly about their product and making bad headphones that break, even though they make the best head units and DJ equipment.

anyway the pics you see is my old useless to me inch thick of good MDF sub box. It isn't braced and it'sh shallow. anyone know of a 5 inch deep or less 12 inch sub that can make you feel hardcore bass for cheap, that will work well that box? SOUND QUALITY DOES NOT MATTER. IT IS NOT FOR ME. my friend just wants to feel the bass so much he can't breath. that is his fantasy of quality. he told me he wants the ground beneath his car to shake.

Then again, he told me that his friend's clipping and distorting 12 inch garbage mtx sub is better than my Velodyne ULD 18 because he could feel more bass and he thought it was better quality bass.

I'm still going to help him though, so what shallow 12 inch in that box could make him feel the bass more than my velodyne ULD 18?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Corey:
The problem isn't the Pioneer subwoofers. They're actually pretty decent for shallow mounts. The problem is likely his enclosure, and that pile of trash he calls an amp.

Put those subs on a proper amp with the proper voltage going into it, and give those subs the enclosure that they want (listed right in the specs sheet), and they'll sound pretty decent for shallow mounts.

Dual amplifiers....gahhh.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Corey:
The problem isn't the Pioneer subwoofers. They're actually pretty decent for shallow mounts. The problem is likely his enclosure, and that pile of trash he calls an amp.

Put those subs on a proper amp with the proper voltage going into it, and give those subs the enclosure that they want (listed right in the specs sheet), and they'll sound pretty decent for shallow mounts.

Dual amplifiers....gahhh.


He still won't feel the bass as much as he wants maxing out the power. I hooked up my velodyne amp to it on my computer and it was JUST as distorted. I blame the drivers TBH. they were showing obvious signs of clipping.

He wants to feel more bass than my velodyne can offer and I already offered him my way better enclosure. can you just reccomend a sub that doesn't care about producing accurate detailed bass and do nothing but let him feel it pound at his chest with 5 inch or less mount depth designed for a 1 ft sealed box?

his box was a sealed .7 cu ft box, works with the specs fine btw.

I'd never buy that driver for my own use. It's a $140 paper weight and the $40 mtx garbage driver raped them in the SAME type 12" wall mart sub box.


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


He still won't feel the bass as much as he wants maxing out the power. I hooked up my velodyne amp to it on my computer and it was JUST as distorted. I blame the drivers TBH. they were showing obvious signs of clipping.

He wants to feel more bass than my velodyne can offer and I already offered him my way better enclosure. can you just reccomend a sub that doesn't care about producing accurate detailed bass and do nothing but let him feel it pound at his chest with 5 inch or less mount depth designed for a 1 ft sealed box?

his box was a sealed .7 cu ft box, works with the specs fine btw.

I'd never buy that driver for my own use. It's a $140 paper weight and the $40 mtx garbage driver raped them in the SAME type 12" wall mart sub box.


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=299-028


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


He still won't feel the bass as much as he wants maxing out the power. I hooked up my velodyne amp to it on my computer and it was JUST as distorted. I blame the drivers TBH. they were showing obvious signs of clipping.

He wants to feel more bass than my velodyne can offer and I already offered him my way better enclosure. can you just reccomend a sub that doesn't care about producing accurate detailed bass and do nothing but let him feel it pound at his chest with 5 inch or less mount depth designed for a 1 ft sealed box?


Your Velodyne amp is NOT a proper car amplifier. It's also not nearly enough power.

Your friend needs a proper monoblock amplifier, probably 500-1000w RMS. Would have to be able to put out at least 400w RMS at whatever resistance the sub is wired to.

Clipping is a fault of amplifiers, not subwoofers. When clipping occurs, it means you are taking the sine wave signal (proper), and CLIPPING the roundness off, thus, turning it into a square wave signal. If you send a clipped signal into a subwoofer, yes...it sounds like crap.

Get me the exact model of his subwoofer, and the exact dimensions of his box. He needs a new amp, period. The highest end Dual amplifier won't even drive my door speakers well.

EDIT:
And he will NEVER get the bass he's after with a single shallow mount 10. Period. Not even with a single 12, not with that little bit of space. And certainly not with a Dual amplifier.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *FearSC549*


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=299-028


OMG i will tell him to put that under his seat. GENIUS!!!!1 lol. I'll tell him to use one channel in my sub box and the other channel the bass shaker actually mounted behind his back. no better way to hit his chest than that, LAWL.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Your Velodyne amp is NOT a proper car amplifier. It's also not nearly enough power.

Your friend needs a proper monoblock amplifier, probably 500-1000w RMS. Would have to be able to put out at least 400w RMS at whatever resistance the sub is wired to.

Clipping is a fault of amplifiers, not subwoofers. When clipping occurs, it means you are taking the sine wave signal (proper), and CLIPPING the roundness off, thus, turning it into a square wave signal. If you send a clipped signal into a subwoofer, yes...it sounds like crap.

Get me the exact model of his subwoofer, and the exact dimensions of his box. He needs a new amp, period. The highest end Dual amplifier won't even drive my door speakers well.

The Dual amp was 400 watts RMS, 200 per channel. the driver is rated at 200 watts RMS as well, looks like someone's lying.

EDIT:
And he will NEVER get the bass he's after with a single shallow mount 10. Period. Not even with a single 12, not with that little bit of space. And certainly not with a Dual amplifier.


Yes he can. You can't feel much at all from my velodyne. it DESTROYS my house but you barely feel it in your chest, just your feet and what you're sitting on. It will literally shake rooms across the 11,500 sq ft house I live in but you can't feel it in your chest. I don't care because I care what it acoustically sounds like to my ears which is pure sex.

So basically any 12 inch shallow mount garbage most excursion possible that moves air subwoofer is what I'm going to reccomend.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=500264

He also made me do that to his car which is a ******ed idea. He has no High pass inputs at all on his amp. I told him it was ******ed and could break his amp or sub. Who puts amplified speaker wires into the pre amp in through a crappy RCA cable and expects QUALITY?

but the Velodyne 400 watt RMS amp did the same clipping and distortion, it's CLASS B CLEAN 400 WATTS OF PURE POWER. mind explaining that? I'm not sure why it would distort with perfect clean power, even if it isn't a car sub amp.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


OMG i will tell him to put that under his seat. GENIUS!!!!1 lol. I'll tell him to use one channel in my sub box and the other channel the bass shaker actually mounted behind his back. no better way to hit his chest than that, LAWL.

Yes he can. You can't feel much at all from my velodyne. it DESTROYS my house but you barely feel it in your chest, just your feet and what you're sitting on. It will literally shake rooms across the 11,500 sq ft house I live in but you can't feel it in your chest. I don't care because I care what it acoustically sounds like to my ears which is pure sex.

So basically any 12 inch shallow mount garbage most excursion possible that moves air subwoofer is what I'm going to reccomend.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=500264

He also made me do that to his car which is a ******ed idea. He has no High pass inputs at all on his amp. I told him it was ******ed and could break his amp or sub. Who puts amplified speaker wires into the pre amp in through a crappy RCA cable and expects QUALITY?

but the Velodyne 400 watt RMS amp did the same clipping and distortion, it's CLASS B CLEAN 400 WATTS OF PURE POWER. mind explaining that? I'm not sure why it would distort with perfect clean power, even if it isn't a car sub amp.


1) Don't wire that Bass Shaker off an amplifier. You'll destroy it.
2) Home audio and car audio are completely different.
3) Clearly you don't know what to recommend for a subwoofer in car audio either.
4) There is nothing wrong with using high level to power an amplifier. You DO need a high to low level converter though, otherwise you WILL fry the amplifier connected to it eventually.
5) The above could be another reason for the distortion. I already told you the signal was bad.
6) Sure, your Velodyne is a Class B 400w RMS amp. At what resistance? Also, read...."Class B". Class B is reserved for speaker amplifiers in Car Audio. You want a Class D monoblock to push a subwoofer.

Again, give me the exact model number on the sub (EXACT), the dimensions of the box he's using, and his budget. He needs an amp, and probably a high to low level converter (assuming a stock stereo is being used).


----------



## coreyL

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*   1) Don't wire that Bass Shaker off an amplifier. You'll destroy it.
2) Home audio and car audio are completely different.
3) Clearly you don't know what to recommend for a subwoofer in car audio either.
4) There is nothing wrong with using high level to power an amplifier. You DO need a high to low level converter though, otherwise you WILL fry the amplifier connected to it eventually.
5) The above could be another reason for the distortion. I already told you the signal was bad.
6) Sure, your Velodyne is a Class B 400w RMS amp. At what resistance? Also, read...."Class B". Class B is reserved for speaker amplifiers in Car Audio. You want a Class D monoblock to push a subwoofer.

Again, give me the exact model number on the sub (EXACT), the dimensions of the box he's using, and his budget. He needs an amp, and probably a high to low level converter (assuming a stock stereo is being used).  
http://www.velodyne.com/vproducts/docs/63-ULD1518.pdf

300mv/20k ohms is the impedance of my velodyne.

I told him the bose voice coil leads to his pre amp input was ******ed, but did not know about the low level converter. thank you on that. Iv'e never messed with car audio, so yeah, that's why I'm asking you. I'll let you know the EXACT model number and box dimensions when I can look at them on hand.

I already considered the already amplified signal to be why the sub was distorting, but my extreme quality clean velodyne amp made me think different.

  
 You Tube  



 
this actually says it was designed specifically for cars, any idea how to hook it up right, behind or under his seat? It also says hook up to voice coil directly from amplifier.

Is selling his one driver, low level converter and the bass shaker a good idea, if the sub box is good enough?

He probably needs a new amp too.

edit:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Scosche-10...osure/14667135

this is his exact box.

oh yeah, the mtx sub was hooked up through his bose amplified rca signal to the same amp. it still raped the pioneer sub. I could really hear the distortion, but now I think that may have happened because the pioneer driver is extremely stiff and the surround is stiffer in an m shape as well, the mtx was very squishy and had ******ed ammounts of excursion for a cheap sub with a softer cone; this may have acted as a mechanical roll off for the distortion, which the pioneer acoustically reproduces too well, then my velodyne amp was messing with the ohms and just raping the driver?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Corey:
Please note that 300mv/20k ohm impedance is your INPUT sensitivity. That is NOT the resistance of your subwoofer. Your sub is somewhere between 2-8ohm most likely. If the resistance isn't the same between your 18 and his 10, then you will NOT be pushing 400w to the 10.

I would avoid the bass shakers. They're pointless. He needs a better subwoofer and amp if he wants that hard hitting bass. The bass shaker only helps with super subsonic notes, and not much even at that. It's only 20w RMS (at 4ohm I believe). So its not going to reproduce what he's looking for.

I need to know the exact model on his subwoofer before I can tell you any recommendations. I need to know the power handling (RMS), the coil layout, and preferably the TS specs on it (not needed since the sub should come with the proper box designs in the manual).

From there, I can tell you what amp will suite him the best. And what setting to use on the high-low level converter.

You can find the converter from Sonicelectronix.com, or woofersetc.com. Amazon and fleabay probably have too, but I've always trusted sonic and woofersetc.

And why is he using shallow mounts anyway? Is space that much of a concern?

If he wants it to get loud, he needs a bigger box, ported with a good tune frequency, and a lot more power than that cheap Dual amp can produce. And he REALLY should look into a proper head unit instead of trying to ghetto fix an amp in there. He'll have 100x less issues with a proper head unit.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Corey:
Please note that 300mv/20k ohm impedance is your INPUT sensitivity. That is NOT the resistance of your subwoofer. Your sub is somewhere between 2-8ohm most likely. If the resistance isn't the same between your 18 and his 10, then you will NOT be pushing 400w to the 10.

I would avoid the bass shakers. They're pointless. He needs a better subwoofer and amp if he wants that hard hitting bass. The bass shaker only helps with super subsonic notes, and not much even at that. It's only 20w RMS (at 4ohm I believe). So its not going to reproduce what he's looking for.

I need to know the exact model on his subwoofer before I can tell you any recommendations. I need to know the power handling (RMS), the coil layout, and preferably the TS specs on it (not needed since the sub should come with the proper box designs in the manual).

From there, I can tell you what amp will suite him the best. And what setting to use on the high-low level converter.

You can find the converter from Sonicelectronix.com, or woofersetc.com. Amazon and fleabay probably have too, but I've always trusted sonic and woofersetc.

And why is he using shallow mounts anyway? Is space that much of a concern?

If he wants it to get loud, he needs a bigger box, ported with a good tune frequency, and a lot more power than that cheap Dual amp can produce. And he REALLY should look into a proper head unit instead of trying to ghetto fix an amp in there. He'll have 100x less issues with a proper head unit.


I know about the head unit, but he paid $150 to get the code from an acura dealer instead of buying a way better head unit, don't ask me. It's an acura RSX which weighs 2700 pounds. It's small. space is of big concern. he listens to nothing but electronic music so subsonic hitting very hard is exactly what he wants. he wants to feel the bass hit his chest as much as he can.

are you sure the bass shaker won't help him feel songs like bass, i love you, and the hardest hitting songs like put on by young jeezy? I can not provide you with exact model of the sub yet, I'd need the physical driver, not a link to what he bought, right?

I'm almost positive the specs on his driver is 0.4-0.7 cu ft for the enclosure size. I could be wrong.

http://www.parts-express.com/pdf/297-290m.pdf

and wow, I was ******ed and didn't think of it that way, it's a pre amped signal obviously at 300mv with 20k ohms. I thought maybe Velodyne wanted it's impedance proprietary at the time.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes I'm positive that bass shaker will NOT do what he's wanting to do.

And considering that he's wanting to keep space so tight, he's never GOING to acheive the low notes in Bass, I Love You....or Put On by Jeezy. It just won't happen. He'll need at least a single big 12 with 1000w RMS or better, in a low tuned box to hit notes like he's wanting (from the sounds of it). Those bass shakers are a JOKE for car audio.


----------



## SteveClay

I would like to Join my name is Steve Clay and im a music producer/owner for SCrecords. On my OCN computer(Studio 1) I am running through my AWIA amp I have 1 600Watt 12" Sub woofer, 6 surround Bose speakers, and then my BABYS I have 3 EV Full Range Constant directivity flood speakers (used in movie theaters) theses have to be the BEST SPEAKER I HAVE EVER HAD, and my naighbors hate me.. here a little story on how loud they are







I was watching saving privet ryan and the guy across the street catty corner from me asked me to turn the stereo down and told me his walls where shaking he said that he woke thinking that a war was happening. (also he later called the poe-leese)







anyway im pretty sure I fit the parameters









ill take some better pictures later this was just taken with my itouch.






















































there is a quarter for comparison


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes I'm positive that bass shaker will NOT do what he's wanting to do.

And considering that he's wanting to keep space so tight, he's never GOING to acheive the low notes in Bass, I Love You....or Put On by Jeezy. It just won't happen. He'll need at least a single big 12 with 1000w RMS or better, in a low tuned box to hit notes like he's wanting (from the sounds of it). Those bass shakers are a JOKE for car audio.


I mean, a tc sounds lms ultra 5400 tuned very low in his entire trunkspace with his back seats ripped out for a 6 cu ft box with the driver pointing towards his back ampped by a 3000 watt rms amp to produce under 10Hz at maybe 140-150 db with some distortion would hit his chest pretty hard, right?

Problem there is money and space. He. Doesnt want a box bigger than mine.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12310485*
> I mean, a tc sounds lms ultra 5400 tuned very low in his entire trunkspace with his back seats ripped out for a 6 cu ft box with the driver pointing towards his back ampped by a 3000 watt rms amp to produce under 10Hz at maybe 140-150 db with some distortion would hit his chest pretty hard, right?
> 
> Problem there is money and space. He. Doesnt want a box bigger than mine.


Get him a single Fi Q 12, and about 2-2.5 cuft ported box at 30Hz.

That's about $250 for the subwoofer, and $150 for the amp to push it.

He will need a headunit though.


----------



## Darkapoc

1st of all don't dis an entire company because you do not have the proper equipment , unless you have a term lab handy which I'm 99% sure you don't because they cost 600 dollars and serve ONE purpose.

2nd of all you tested that INSIDE I'm guessing ... sound pressure is MUCH less significant inside of a house if you were to put your 18 in a car you'd feel it in your chest, a houses resonant frequency is MUCH higher than that of a car(hence car = loud house = quiet).

3rd drop the dual amp dual is was and always will be CRAP blew my first subs(dual said 350 watt rms) gave it 50 watts and BOTH tinsels came de soldered they're junk.

4th We need a budget, a single 10 or 12 is perfectly capable of recreating the bass he is looking for depending on the music he listens to, but without a proper budget I cannot reccomend ANYTHING, I had 2 10 inch memphis power reference subs in a 4 cubic foot box tuned to 33hz and it could kick your ass.

5th he needs a new box a CUSTOM box probably ported for what he wants if he just wants something loud tune it near 35-->45(rock music) if he wants REAL bass go anywhere from 25->>>35(rap techno w/e).

If he were going for SQ or something I could understand a sealed box but he just wants loud, you REALLY want to boil his balls get 2 of these (top mounted on the box)and put a REAL amp on it. pm me if you need clarification of the amps quality.

He will also want to upgrade his vehicles wiring if he got a dual amp he probably ran 8 guage wire(CRAP) get atLEAST 4 guage preferably 2 guage with a PROPER ground (ground down the paint and bolt it through the frame/chassis.)

That is all for now (my clan needs me xD)
under 10 hz at 140 dbs doesn't exist lol

if nothing else grab 2 kicker l8 8 inch subs slap them in the box and be done with it. 4 3/4 inch mounting depth and a lot more cone area than a single 10.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12315138*
> 1st of all don't dis an entire company because you do not have the proper equipment , unless you have a term lab handy which I'm 99% sure you don't because they cost 600 dollars and serve ONE purpose.
> 
> 2nd of all you tested that INSIDE I'm guessing ... sound pressure is MUCH less significant inside of a house if you were to put your 18 in a car you'd feel it in your chest, a houses resonant frequency is MUCH higher than that of a car(hence car = loud house = quiet).
> 
> 3rd drop the dual amp dual is was and always will be CRAP blew my first subs(dual said 350 watt rms) gave it 50 watts and BOTH tinsels came de soldered they're junk.
> 
> 4th We need a budget, a single 10 or 12 is perfectly capable of recreating the bass he is looking for depending on the music he listens to, but without a proper budget I cannot reccomend ANYTHING, I had 2 10 inch memphis power reference subs in a 4 cubic foot box tuned to 33hz and it could kick your ass.
> 
> 5th he needs a new box a CUSTOM box probably ported for what he wants if he just wants something loud tune it near 35-->45(rock music) if he wants REAL bass go anywhere from 25->>>35(rap techno w/e).
> 
> If he were going for SQ or something I could understand a sealed box but he just wants loud, you REALLY want to boil his balls get 2 of these (top mounted on the box)and put a REAL amp on it. pm me if you need clarification of the amps quality.
> 
> He will also want to upgrade his vehicles wiring if he got a dual amp he probably ran 8 guage wire(CRAP) get atLEAST 4 guage preferably 2 guage with a PROPER ground (ground down the paint and bolt it through the frame/chassis.)
> 
> That is all for now (my clan needs me xD)
> under 10 hz at 140 dbs doesn't exist lol
> 
> if nothing else grab 2 kicker l8 8 inch subs slap them in the box and be done with it. 4 3/4 inch mounting depth and a lot more cone area than a single 10.


This is just touching on PART of the problems with Corey's posts.

Corey:
You need to understand, car audio is NOT the same as home audio. What you THINK that you know about home audio, is completely useless and wrong in car audio. And it sounds like your buddy bought the lowest of the low line crap equipment he could find. That's what he gets for buying JUNK at Best Buy.

Give us a goal with the system, a budget, space limitations (for the box), and we can go from there. And quit blaming the Pioneer shallow mount sub. That's one of the BETTER shallow mount subs that are out there (assuming the 400w RMS model). The lower 200w RMS model isn't bad, but won't do what he's after.


----------



## Deano12345

I'm replacing my broken soundsticks with a set of Q Acoustic 2010's which means I can finally join this club (something ive wanted to do for a while now). Im sure I'll be back posting here when I can afford to buy a better amp, as my current one isnt the most powerful one (Scythe Kama Amp).










I'll take lots of pictures of my new toys (in gloss white, in anyone is wondering) when I get them on friday


----------



## Citra

Will I need a soundcard if I get the Klipsch Promedia 2.1? Or will my VIA integrated be ok?


----------



## 161029

Did you guys notice that AudioEngine released a new set of speakers, the P4?

http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Audioengine-P4

I wonder if I should get this over the A2's.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deano12345;12322853*
> I'm replacing my broken soundsticks with a set of Q Acoustic 2010's which means I can finally join this club (something ive wanted to do for a while now). Im sure I'll be back posting here when I can afford to buy a better amp, as my current one isnt the most powerful one (Scythe Kama Amp).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take lots of pictures of my new toys (in gloss white, in anyone is wondering) when I get them on friday


I will hold off on adding you till you get them in so I only have to link once

ps do take lots of pics as I just love looking at everyone's setup


----------



## Darkapoc

Built my boxes (on a crooked table saw -.-).
Forgot to compensate for my center channels mounting bracket as well so it's in a **** location right now.
And built a mini amp box from my old antec bx20s for my center channel amp.

Eq I was hoping for turned out to be fried







oh well I got it for free form my brother to play with.)
Anyways Will upload pics of them they sound EXACTLY how I wanted them to, still debating on porting them though.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12327128*
> Built my boxes (on a crooked table saw -.-).
> Forgot to compensate for my center channels mounting bracket as well so it's in a **** location right now.
> And built a mini amp box from my old antec bx20s for my center channel amp.
> 
> Eq I was hoping for turned out to be fried
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh well I got it for free form my brother to play with.)
> Anyways Will upload pics of them they sound EXACTLY how I wanted them to, still debating on porting them though.


its best to play around with it till you get it the way you want it


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore;12326515*
> Did you guys notice that AudioEngine released a new set of speakers, the P4?
> 
> http://audioengineusa.com/Store/Audioengine-P4
> 
> I wonder if I should get this over the A2's.


You would need to buy a receiver or amp or something to power them since they are unpowered.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra;12326074*
> Will I need a soundcard if I get the Klipsch Promedia 2.1? Or will my VIA integrated be ok?


Your integrate sound card will sound fine, but your ears will thank you if you buy a new one, they jump in quality that a soundcard gives over integrated is really noticeable !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble;12326983*
> I will hold off on adding you till you get them in so I only have to link once
> 
> ps do take lots of pics as I just love looking at everyone's setup


Don't worry, there will be plenty of pics







I haven't probably been this excited for an upgrade since my 5850 !


----------



## Deano12345

Got the 2010's and Im amazed...the bass is stunning and theres no problem with volume even on my 20W (10x2) Amp

Quick pic :


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Deano12345*


Got the 2010's and Im amazed...the bass is stunning and theres no problem with volume even on my 20W (10x2) Amp

Quick pic :











nice but where are the plenty of pics?
















Quote:



Originally Posted by *Deano12345*


Don't worry, there will be plenty of pics







I haven't probably been this excited for an upgrade since my 5850 !


----------



## gorb

New speakers!

















Energy RC-50 and RC-LCR. Unsure if I'm going to just use a 3.1 setup or go back to 5.1 and move the elts to the rear.


----------



## jarble

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


New speakers!

















Energy RC-50 and RC-LCR. Unsure if I'm going to just use a 3.1 setup or go back to 5.1 and move the elts to the rear.


nice


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


New speakers!

















Energy RC-50 and RC-LCR. Unsure if I'm going to just use a 3.1 setup or go back to 5.1 and move the elts to the rear.


How good are those? I'm thinking about getting a Marantz pre amp, building a Quad 405 5 channel amplifier and re building my velodyne uld 18 with an lms ultra 5400 driver and a Dayton 1000 watt rms class ab plate amp, making my 5.7 cu ft sub weigh over 185 pounds >.>

I wanted to amplify the rc50 with a quad 405 amp. How do you think that'll sound?

Btw, I'm a ******, or infant when it comes to sound. There's so much I need to learn.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I've already told you before Corey, you're looking at doing things the wrong way with that subwoofer. $900 for the driver, another what $400 for the amplifier? And you can't spare $50 to build the proper enclosure for it?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12355289*
> I've already told you before Corey, you're looking at doing things the wrong way with that subwoofer. $900 for the driver, another what $400 for the amplifier? And you can't spare $50 to build the proper enclosure for it?


Oh I definitely would design an enclosure for it, but know this. I want complete flat frequency response, not ported. I'd obviously stick it in my velodyne box til it was built though ^_^

If I build the box, which will probably be sealed, it will probably be even heavier than 185 pounds still.

I disagree with ported subs for a reason =\


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12356633*
> Oh I definitely would design an enclosure for it, but know this. I want complete flat frequency response, not ported. I'd obviously stick it in my velodyne box til it was built though ^_^
> 
> If I build the box, which will probably be sealed, it will probably be even heavier than 185 pounds still.
> 
> I disagree with ported subs for a reason =\


You disagree with ported subs for the wrong reason. Ported can get you a very flat response as well, just with greater output. It all depends on what frequency you tune the box to







.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12356656*
> You disagree with ported subs for the wrong reason. Ported can get you a very flat response as well, just with greater output. It all depends on what frequency you tune the box to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I want 15 Hz and 75 Hz to be the same decibels









Ported is bad for this, is it not?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12356750*
> I want 15 Hz and 75 Hz to be the same decibels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ported is bad for this, is it not?










um...not if it's tuned low enough. Ported has fast rolloff below where the port is tuned too. Sealed has a gradual rolloff.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12356750*
> I want 15 Hz and 75 Hz to be the same decibels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ported is bad for this, is it not?


You will NEVER get 15Hz and 75Hz out of the same subwoofer, period. Not cleanly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12356773*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> um...not if it's tuned low enough. Ported has fast rolloff below where the port is tuned too. Sealed has a gradual rolloff.


And this. If you tune low enough, you'll have a slower rolloff going upwards. The fast rolloff is usually below tune.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble;12351823*
> nice but where are the plenty of pics?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :heyyou:


I kind of got distracted yesterday, with some new software (Lightroom) and these speakers but heres another quick snap


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12356837*
> You will NEVER get 15Hz and 75Hz out of the same subwoofer, period. Not cleanly.
> 
> And this. If you tune low enough, you'll have a slower rolloff going upwards. The fast rolloff is usually below tune.


My Velodyne -3 DB is 13 Hz.

http://www.velodyne.com/products/manuals/63-ULD1518.pdf

nominal frequency response- 18-85Hz.

You're saying it wasnt flat and responsive throughout those frequencies?

I guess my ears suck and were tricking me.






Tell me what you think.

I want to build a Quad 405 amplifier for it, with 5 channels. The Quad 405 is said to be one of the most linear sounding solid state amplifiers in existence.










That's the 2 channel Quad 405. My friend's dad will literally hand me half the parts for free, and help me build it some time later.

I was then thinking about the Energy RC 50 for stereo speakers to pair with my sub (assuming I can either fix the Velodyne or get as good. maybe I thought the ULD 18 was a lot better than it really is, and my ears actually suck. I care about acoustical reproduction being flat above all else.


----------



## 98uk

Looking at all this sub talk, was this a good deal I caught then?

http://www.superfi.co.uk/index.cfm/page/moreinfo.cfm/Product_ID/6743

I got that (in Vermont) for £130 (£RRP: £407) through Acoustic Energy's official eBay store. It was on sale because there was a paint chip on on corner (obviously someone didn't want to pay £400 for something that was already chipped!) and then on top, they had an eBay 24hour sale period where it was reduced down to £130. I picked it up from Acoustic Energy's headquarters as they are near me, saving on the £10 postage! Seems like an epic deal, especially seeing as it won the Feb 2011 What HiFi award


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex98uk;12357132*
> Looking at all this sub talk, was this a good deal I caught then?
> 
> http://www.superfi.co.uk/index.cfm/page/moreinfo.cfm/Product_ID/6743
> 
> I got that (in Vermont) for £130 (£RRP: £407) through Acoustic Energy's official eBay store. It was on sale because there was a paint chip on on corner (obviously someone didn't want to pay £400 for something that was already chipped!) and then on top, they had an eBay 24hour sale period where it was reduced down to £130. I picked it up from Acoustic Energy's headquarters as they are near me, saving on the £10 postage! Seems like an epic deal, especially seeing as it won the Feb 2011 What HiFi award


I'd say for musical purposes, yes. for home theater, not as much.


----------



## pioneerisloud

No, what I am telling you is that a subwoofer BY DESIGN, can only handle 1-1.5 octaves worth of sound. It can produce more, sure. But its not going to be clean. Especially ported designs.

So 18Hz as the lowest, 45Hz would be the highest you SHOULD go to with it.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12357118*
> My Velodyne -3 DB is 13 Hz.
> 
> http://www.velodyne.com/products/manuals/63-ULD1518.pdf
> 
> *nominal* frequency response- 18-85Hz.
> 
> You're saying it wasnt flat and responsive throughout those frequencies?
> 
> I guess my ears suck and were tricking me.
> 
> ...


Not in your room most likely. Key word here in bold. One thing you never consider is the room. Room has almost as much to do with response as the enclosure itself. It depends on where the sub is, how big the room is, where your head is, etc... The measurements on the websites and in the datasheets are basically what they ideally look like. Real world is going to be different. I'm not saying it's not flat or whatever, it may even be + a few dB. My point is, you can't look at a datasheet, throw a sub in a closet and expect the frequency response to match the datasheet.

/offtopic


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12357163*
> Not in your room most likely. Key word here in bold. One thing you never consider is the room. Room has almost as much to do with response as the enclosure itself. It depends on where the sub is, how big the room is, where your head is, etc... The measurements on the websites and in the datasheets are basically what they ideally look like. Real world is going to be different. I'm not saying it's not flat or whatever, it may even be + a few dB. My point is, you can't look at a datasheet, throw a sub in a closet and expect the frequency response to match the datasheet.
> 
> /offtopic


It was in the corner of my 6' by 8' room. My entire house started flexing at under 80db.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12357146*
> No, what I am telling you is that a subwoofer BY DESIGN, can only handle 1-1.5 octaves worth of sound. It can produce more, sure. But its not going to be clean. Especially ported designs.
> 
> So 18Hz as the lowest, 45Hz would be the highest you SHOULD go to with it.


What about a sealed box with a servo subwoofer? This sub has no way to crossover under 85Hz. So you know, the servo is basically an accelerometer that measures the woofer movement 3500 or more times a second and corrects the woofer position constantly, greatly reducing the distortion, and has the ability to increase or decrease the actual stiffness of the driver itself, Iv'e witnessed this first hand. When the servo did work, it worked.

You're saying even a sealed Servo subwoofer only produces 1.5 octaves?


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12357238*
> It was in the corner of my 6' by 8' room. My entire house started flexing at under 80db.
> 
> What about a sealed box with a servo subwoofer? This sub has no way to crossover under 85Hz. So you know, the servo is basically an accelerometer that measures the woofer movement 3500 or more times a second and corrects the woofer position constantly, greatly reducing the distortion, and has the ability to increase or decrease the actual stiffness of the driver itself, Iv'e witnessed this first hand. When the servo did work, it worked.
> 
> You're saying even a sealed Servo subwoofer only produces 1.5 octaves?


You misread what he said. Yes, of course a sub can produce higher than 1.5 octave, but it will be full of distortion. A sub is intended to produce usually under 1.5 octave for best sound quality.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Corey, I may be wrong on this one. And if I am, please somebody chime in and correct me.

But seriously, what's with all this Servo nonsense? I just looked up what that ACTUALLY is, and all it is....is basically an amplifier. Why are you SO persistant on using an amplifier that HAS to be used with a SPECIFIC driver? You won't get your Servo to work with a TS 18 like you're planning. Not if what I'm reading is correct. It sounds to me personally, like its no better than the crap Dell was pulling with their proprietary motherboards back in the day. You have to have a specific driver for your servo to work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wikipedia*
> Although many servomotors require a drive specific to that particular motor brand or model, many drives are now available that are compatible with a wide variety of motors.
> 
> Servo systems can be used in CNC machining, factory automation, and robotics, among other uses. Their main advantage over traditional DC or AC motors is the addition of motor feedback. This feedback can be used to detect unwanted motion, or to ensure the accuracy of the commanded motion. The feedback is generally provided by an encoder of some sort. Servos, in constant speed changing use, have a better life cycle than typical a/c wound motors. Servo motors can also act as a brake by shunting off generated electricity from the motor itself.


Now I can see the potential usefulness of it. However with modern subwoofer amplifiers, what it does is a thing of the past. To stop "unwanted motion" on a subwoofer...that's EASY with a good amplifier. Set the low pass crossover to the proper point. Set the subsonic filter to the proper point. BAM! No unwanted movement.


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12356750*
> I want 15 Hz and 75 Hz to be the same decibels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ported is bad for this, is it not?


Than you want a bandpass box not a sealed box, even so it wouldn't create the output you are looking for.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12367207*
> Than you want a bandpass box not a sealed box, even so it wouldn't create the output you are looking for.


Sealed would be easiest to achieve what he's wanting. Won't be clean sounding though. T-Line would be the next option...again, won't be clean sounding. Bandpass...ehh, I hate bandpass personally. But I've only ever heard pre-built bandpasses, so that might skew my judgement on them.

Regardless of his box type, he's not going to get the output he's after cleanly.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12367298*
> Sealed would be easiest to achieve what he's wanting. Won't be clean sounding though. T-Line would be the next option...again, won't be clean sounding. Bandpass...ehh, I hate bandpass personally. But I've only ever heard pre-built bandpasses, so that might skew my judgement on them.
> 
> Regardless of his box type, he's not going to get the output he's after cleanly.


=[ ok, if I want the response to be up to 50Hz, how low do I tune it and how low will it play?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12367547*
> =[ ok, if I want the response to be up to 50Hz, how low do I tune it and how low will it play?


I'd say tune to 25Hz or so if that's the case. With the right room placement, and proper driver / box size, you should reach down to around 20Hz. And up to 50Hz right after rolloffs.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12367570*
> I'd say tune to 25Hz or so if that's the case. With the right room placement, and proper driver / box size, you should reach down to around 20Hz. And up to 50Hz right after rolloffs.


Ok, so if I get the lms ultra, then I need to build an 8.5 cu ft box and tune it to 25Hz. I'll use a Dayton 1000 watt class AB Plate amp., it will probably weigh over 200 pounds lol. Driver is 83 pounds, amp is 20 pounds. 1 inch thick 8.5'cu ft box braced is probably over a a hundred pounds. Lol. I'll definitely put wheels on it


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12367709*
> Ok, so if I get the lms ultra, then I need to build an 8.5 cu ft box and tune it to 25Hz. I'll use a Dayton 1000 watt class AB Plate amp., it will probably weigh over 200 pounds lol. Driver is 83 pounds, amp is 20 pounds. 1 inch thick 8.5'cu ft box braced is probably over a a hundred pounds. Lol. I'll definitely put wheels on it


That'll DEFINITELY do it. I sure hope that you have something better than tiny little bookshelfs to go with it though







.

Nothing wrong with going overkill on a sub.

But yeah, your box size sounds pretty close to what it would need for that tune. I'd have to double check, but I think that sounds about right. And 1000w RMS to it....kind of under powering it, but it would still be godly loud. And hit some INSANE low notes.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12367745*
> That'll DEFINITELY do it. I sure hope that you have something better than tiny little bookshelfs to go with it though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Nothing wrong with going overkill on a sub.
> 
> But yeah, your box size sounds pretty close to what it would need for that tune. I'd have to double check, but I think that sounds about right. And 1000w RMS to it....kind of under powering it, but it would still be godly loud. And hit some INSANE low notes.


Wait, I could just port my velodyne box and tune it to 25 Hz? Or would the 8.5 cu ft box be better. What would you recommend for a home amp?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12367787*
> Wait, I could just port my velodyne box and tune it to 25 Hz? Or would the 8.5 cu ft box be better. What would you recommend for a home amp?


Apparently I'm a completely noob, and my advice is always wrong. You should just get a z5500 instead.







Sorry, backlash from another thread







.

You could TRY porting your Velodyne box...but its not going to be the same. For that TS sub, I'd go slot ported on it, or T-Line. You'll get far too much port velocity from round ports, even if designed properly.

Home amp, I'm HONESTLY not sure. The only home amps I'm familiar with at all are the Bash 300w, Dayton 250w, and Dayton 500 (since its nearly identical to the 250w). And none of those are anywhere NEAR powerful enough for your project.

If I had to guess, the Dayton 1000w rack amp. But again, I honestly don't know what would be a proper amp for something that big.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12367918*
> Apparently I'm a completely noob, and my advice is always wrong. You should just get a z5500 instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, backlash from another thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> You could TRY porting your Velodyne box...but its not going to be the same. For that TS sub, I'd go slot ported on it, or T-Line. You'll get far too much port velocity from round ports, even if designed properly.
> 
> Home amp, I'm HONESTLY not sure. The only home amps I'm familiar with at all are the Bash 300w, Dayton 250w, and Dayton 500 (since its nearly identical to the 250w). And none of those are anywhere NEAR powerful enough for your project.
> 
> If I had to guess, the Dayton 1000w rack amp. But again, I honestly don't know what would be a proper amp for something that big.


Don't mess with the velodyne. Trust me. Best to just start over and you have a backup.

corey, just build a tapped horn and be done with it! Talk about high output...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12368021*
> Don't mess with the velodyne. Trust me. Best to just start over and you have a backup.
> 
> corey, just build a tapped horn and be done with it! Talk about high output...


I agree with that point. If your Velodyne is still working....its not worth the risk to screw it up for a project. Not saying the project won't work out, but you could always turn around and sell the Velodyne later, or give it to a friend.

And







tapped horn goodness!


----------



## SomeDooD

I have M-Audio BX5a speakers! Can I be added to the list?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12368035*
> I agree with that point. If your Velodyne is still working....its not worth the risk to screw it up for a project. Not saying the project won't work out, but you could always turn around and sell the Velodyne later, or give it to a friend.
> 
> And
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tapped horn goodness!


My velodyne amp actually died, lol. That's why I'd be more inclined to do it well.

I'm not sure what a tapped horn is, but I'll look into that. I might even buy the dayton amp first and see if it sounds good on my velodyne driver, in it's own box.

Im not apposed to building my own tapped horn, I guess at 8.5 cu ft. That's what tc sounds says is nominal cu ft for the driver lol.


----------



## gorb

Only using 3.1 for now - stuck my elt525s in the closet.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Corey, do you HONESTLY want an 8.5 cuft subwoofer? I'm pretty confident that you could get by with a solid 15", with a significantly smaller encloser (say 5 cuft?), and the same amp, and still hit what you're wanting to hit with it.

I mean hell man, I hit down to 27Hz easy as pie in my car (which that's HARD to do in a car mind you), with a single 300w 12", in 1.30 cuft of space (ported).


----------



## Darkapoc

Flat out do research you're not going to accomplish anything with just blindly doing crap.
You are NOT going to get multiple octaves out of a single sub setup(hence why I have separate subs for different purposes).

Don't bother getting a sub that is a grand if you don't know what it is capable of.
the only box that would POSSIBLY produce your desired output (15-75) would be a bandpass box even then it would fall quite short and sound like ass doing it.

Your sub does NOT reproduce those frequencies smoothly I promise you this.

If you want to do this kind of stuff KNOW IT, and know what the terms mean, and how things are accomplished.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


Flat out do research you're not going to accomplish anything with just blindly doing crap.
You are NOT going to get multiple octaves out of a single sub setup(hence why I have separate subs for different purposes).

Don't bother getting a sub that is a grand if you don't know what it is capable of.
the only box that would POSSIBLY produce your desired output (15-75) would be a bandpass box even then it would fall quite short and sound like ass doing it.

Your sub does NOT reproduce those frequencies smoothly I promise you this.

If you want to do this kind of stuff KNOW IT, and know what the terms mean, and how things are accomplished.


I can tell you this much. I've personally heard one of those TC LMS Ultra 18's. I KNOW what that subwoofer is capable of (in a car environment). And that thing is an absolute MONSTER!!! If I could fit that beast in my little Prelude, and had a spare $900 to blow on a driver, plus another $1000 or so to blow on amplifiers to push it....I'd buy one







.

The setup I heard, he was tuned to 25Hz, 9 cuft, slot ported, in I want to say it was a Jeep Cherokee. He had a good 5000w RMS pushing it (all Sundown Audio amplifiers, 4x SAZ1500's strapped). And my GOD did that thing hit every note down to 20Hz, from 50Hz. He had his subsonic at 25Hz, and his crossover at 40Hz.

Now granted, that's all he could hit. The rest of his speakers weren't up to the challenge.

But even with what Corey has in mind, he's NEVER going to be using the full potential of that subwoofer with a wimpy 1000w RMS. Nor is he EVER going to be happy if he's looking for 2-3 octaves worth of output cleanly from a subwoofer.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I can tell you this much. I've personally heard one of those TC LMS Ultra 18's. I KNOW what that subwoofer is capable of (in a car environment). And that thing is an absolute MONSTER!!! If I could fit that beast in my little Prelude, and had a spare $900 to blow on a driver, plus another $1000 or so to blow on amplifiers to push it....I'd buy one







.

The setup I heard, he was tuned to 25Hz, 9 cuft, slot ported, in I want to say it was a Jeep Cherokee. He had a good 5000w RMS pushing it (all Sundown Audio amplifiers, 4x SAZ1500's strapped). And my GOD did that thing hit every note down to 20Hz, from 50Hz. He had his subsonic at 25Hz, and his crossover at 40Hz.

Now granted, that's all he could hit. The rest of his speakers weren't up to the challenge.

But even with what Corey has in mind, he's NEVER going to be using the full potential of that subwoofer with a wimpy 1000w RMS. Nor is he EVER going to be happy if he's looking for 2-3 octaves worth of output cleanly from a subwoofer.



Dude, I'm very happy with 20-50 Hz actually. I just didn't know subs weren't capable of more than 1.5 octaves.

I'd be happy with a 9 cu ft box and 1000 watts RMS going in my sub. would I be able to push more than 100 db's with 1000 watts RMS if i wanted? for MY use, I'd never do it, but I want that capability if I do ever set my sub up in a huge area to help my friends out with sound stuff ( I do this very often for a couple DJ friends) I still want damn good quality and very flat frequency response. my uses might push it up to 80 db in the loudest, but my house would start falling apart at that point and lights dimmed with my Velodyne.


----------



## Liighthead

wharfedale xarus 1000 any good?

they sounded nice in the shop worth getting? :]


----------



## pioneerisloud

Corey, I have a feeling that you are thinking about dB in the wrong sense. Have you tested it with a TermLab? If 80dB is shaking your house to hell and back...then you must have a really crappy house. Because my 1987 Honda Prelude, that I payed $300 for can handle 136dB with ease. Rattles a little bit in the trunk, but that's it.

I'm willing to bet you're pushing it a LOT harder than 80dB. Hell, my computer fans alone are 53dB. Just doing LIGHT listening is around 80.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Corey, I have a feeling that you are thinking about dB in the wrong sense. Have you tested it with a TermLab? If 80dB is shaking your house to hell and back...then you must have a really crappy house. Because my 1987 Honda Prelude, that I payed $300 for can handle 136dB with ease. Rattles a little bit in the trunk, but that's it.

I'm willing to bet you're pushing it a LOT harder than 80dB. Hell, my computer fans alone are 53dB. Just doing LIGHT listening is around 80.


dude, volume knob on my velodyne at 75%, windows volume at 30% and itunes at 30% would start making things fall off tables across the 11,500 sq ft house, a floor down. the iphone meter said 87db then I turned my BX5a's off and it said 70db. no idea what's up with that. my body wasnt feeling ANY bass at all aside on the floor until I stepped inside my closet. The acoustical energy coming from the woofer actually turned my closet 10 ft away into a bandpass, lol. Stepping inside the closet turned my body into mush and made my hair stand up while sounding 100% clean aside from my window and house walls rattling.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


Dude, I'm very happy with 20-50 Hz actually. I just didn't know subs weren't capable of more than 1.5 octaves.

I'd be happy with a 9 cu ft box and 1000 watts RMS going in my sub. would I be able to push more than 100 db's with 1000 watts RMS if i wanted? for MY use, I'd never do it, but I want that capability if I do ever set my sub up in a huge area to help my friends out with sound stuff ( I do this very often for a couple DJ friends) I still want damn good quality and very flat frequency response. my uses might push it up to 80 db in the loudest, but my house would start falling apart at that point and lights dimmed with my Velodyne.


I think pioneer is right on this one 80db should not shake anything apart. And you should define huge area cause 1 18 is small for most venues i work with.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


dude, volume knob on my velodyne at 75%, windows volume at 30% and itunes at 30% would start making things fall off tables across the 11,500 sq ft house, a floor down. the iphone meter said 87db then I turned my BX5a's off and it said 70db. no idea what's up with that. my body wasnt feeling ANY bass at all aside on the floor until I stepped inside my closet. The acoustical energy coming from the woofer actually turned my closet 10 ft away into a bandpass, lol. Stepping inside the closet turned my body into mush and made my hair stand up while sounding 100% clean aside from my window and house walls rattling.


That's more than 80dB then







. Sounds like closer to 130-140dB. Problem being, your iPhone meter isn't accurate. You need a TermLab to measure correctly. That's about $600 worth of hardware and software







.


----------



## Liighthead

wharfedale xarus 1000. any good? gotta pickem up today 
$70 today only.. 2nd hand like perfect condition









any good or get something elese?


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


That's more than 80dB then







. Sounds like closer to 130-140dB. Problem being, your iPhone meter isn't accurate. You need a TermLab to measure correctly. That's about $600 worth of hardware and software







.


O hes using an iphone meter. Ya its way way off i use my RTA mic and Smaart and some other software. The mic in the iphone is only good to 100 and even then its +- 20db


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


wharfedale xarus 1000. any good? gotta pickem up today 
$70 today only.. 2nd hand like perfect condition









any good or get something elese?


Sorry, I missed your post earlier







.

$70 is a steal for good speakers. I don't know much about them, only heard a few good things about them (nothing bad). By a quick google search, they appear to be passive (so they need an amp).

For $70, you won't beat that price. If you're looking for speakers, and you have an amp already...get them







. Worst case, you don't like how they sound...so you sell them later.


----------



## drjoey1500

Don't build a tapped horn corey. Don't even bother unless you build something someone already designed.

And seriously guys, this is turning into the OCN subwoofer club. Dude before you spend $2k on a sub, get some good mains first. What's the point in having the best bass ever if you can't even understand the lyrics







?

Itunes? Seriously? I'm offended...http://www.foobar2000.org/


----------



## Liighthead

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Sorry, I missed your post earlier







.

$70 is a steal for good speakers. I don't know much about them, only heard a few good things about them (nothing bad). By a quick google search, they appear to be passive (so they need an amp).

For $70, you won't beat that price. If you're looking for speakers, and you have an amp already...get them







. Worst case, you don't like how they sound...so you sell them later.


alright cheers.. ill go pickem up in a few hours.

and yeh got a 1/2 decent amp.. see what happens :] 
just cheaked a store ( jb-hifi ) their $240 new O.O


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


Don't build a tapped horn corey. Don't even bother unless you build something someone already designed.

And seriously guys, this is turning into the OCN subwoofer club. Dude before you spend $2k on a sub, get some good mains first. What's the point in having the best bass ever if you can't even understand the lyrics







?

Itunes? Seriously? I'm offended...http://www.foobar2000.org/


LOL ya your right. But some of us have great mains already . But your point is very valid and is what i think of most car audio people who only go for bass. Foobar FTW









O and as for the folded sub i have 2 folded 18s in my warehouse that i use for outdoor venues. There a little different folded in a W but there great outside cause they throw so far and in a very tight directional pattern. Indoors though they cant stand up to my doubles front loaded or even the singles for that matter so folded probably not the best idea inside.


----------



## Witchdoctor

Polk Audio

70's up front with 30's for presence & CS2 in the middle w/ 600 JBL powered sub

Paradigms in the back, forget waht model but Bi-polars

pushed by Yamaha RX-A1000


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12375748*
> That's more than 80dB then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Sounds like closer to 130-140dB. Problem being, your iPhone meter isn't accurate. You need a TermLab to measure correctly. That's about $600 worth of hardware and software
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ok and you tell me how I could push 130+ db with no audible distortion with a QUARTER INCH of excursion and 400 watts...

I'm getting tired of this person saying this is right, another saying it's bullcrapmand this is right. My friends dad who is a sound engineer tolde that 18Hz-85Hz isnt even more than 1.5 octaves and that a ported sub is a ******ed idea, and that sealed subs have a much more flat frequency response.

How the hell am I supposed to learn when someone who has been building amplifiers and fixing them since he was 10 who has been a sound engineer for over 40 years is telling me things that contradict everything you guys are telling me?

If I go to college for sound engineering now, I'll be suspicious of EVERYTHING they teach me. This is seriously bull crap.

Oh yeah, drjoey: no one even said ANYTHING about the Marantz AV8003 pre amp/ surround sound processor I was looking at, or told me how Energy RC-50 would sound if I built a Quad 405 amplifier with 5 channels to power them. The help I got regarding my Velodyne is controversial to a sound engineer friend. No one will even tell me if a tube pre amp will sound more linear than a solid state pre amp. No one will tell me how linear the Marantz will sound. No one will tell me how good hooking up decent studio monitors to that Marantz will sound. No one will helpe fix my velodyne amp.

Epitome of bullcrap. Grade A, steamy piles of bull crap.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12378765*
> Ok and you tell me how I could push 130+ db with no audible distortion with a QUARTER INCH of excursion and 400 watts...
> 
> I'm getting tired of this person saying this is right, another saying it's bullcrapmand this is right. *My friends dad who is a sound engineer tolde that 18Hz-85Hz isnt even more than 1.5 octaves and that a ported sub is a ******ed idea, and that sealed subs have a much more flat frequency response.*
> 
> -Angry stuff snipped out-


I think you need to go google what 1 octave means







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wikipedia*
> interval between one musical pitch and another with *half or double its frequency.*


18Hz - 36Hz = ONE Octave.
18Hz - 45Hz = 1.5 Octaves (most a subwoofer can cleanly produce)
20Hz - 40Hz = ONE Octave
20Hz - 50Hz = 1.5 Octaves
25Hz - 50Hz = ONE Octave
25Hz - 63Hz = 1.5 Octaves

I think your sound engineer friend needs to go back to school to learn the basics







.

And the enclosure design depends ENTIRELY on the driver used. Most of the time, yes...sealed is a more flat response than ported. But it depends on what frequencies you intend to hit. If you set the proper filters, and tune a ported box correctly, it will be just as flat, but with more output.

Subwoofer building 101 right there for you







.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12378765*
> Oh yeah, drjoey: no one even said ANYTHING about the Marantz AV8003 pre amp/ surround sound processor I was looking at, or told me how Energy RC-50 would sound if I built a Quad 405 amplifier with 5 channels to power them. The help I got regarding my Velodyne is controversial to a sound engineer friend. No one will even tell me if a tube pre amp will sound more linear than a solid state pre amp. No one will tell me how linear the Marantz will sound. No one will tell me how good hooking up decent studio monitors to that Marantz will sound. No one will helpe fix my velodyne amp.


i don't get why you keep trying to ask a lot of these questions here still...... its been almost a month if not longer and you haven't got an answer. IMO you would be better off asking them here: http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=1


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12378849*
> I think you need to go google what 1 octave means
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 18Hz - 36Hz = ONE Octave.
> 18Hz - 45Hz = 1.5 Octaves (most a subwoofer can cleanly produce)
> 20Hz - 40Hz = ONE Octave
> 20Hz - 50Hz = 1.5 Octaves
> 25Hz - 50Hz = ONE Octave
> 25Hz - 63Hz = 1.5 Octaves
> 
> I think your sound engineer friend needs to go back to school to learn the basics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


In that case, I need to figure out how to make the lms ultra push out 120db while being flat and clean hitting under 20 Hz. How much power I need and what to do to the 8.5+ cu ft enclosure.

I wish my Velodyne still worked but infant control that now. I might well build something as good as it for a learning experience.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;12378911*
> i don't get why you keep trying to ask a lot of these questions here still...... its been almost a month if not longer and you haven't got an answer. IMO you would be better off asking them here: http://www.htguide.com/forum/forumdisplay.php4?f=1


So you know as far as Internet, pioneerisloud has helped me more than the numerous audio forums ive been to as far as alternative to my broken velodyne. Maybe you shouldn't be ignorant. I'm here to learn.

Drjoey complained that all I talk about is my subwoofer, it's broken, it's a problem. And more importantly, NO ONE has given me any good advice regarding the Marantz AV8003 surround sound pre amp, or the Quad 405 amp, OR the energy RC 50 and if will keep up with a sub as good as my velodyne. OR anything regarding how linear a tube pre amp vs a solid state pre amp would sound even if it's amplified by a $20,000 Conrad Johnson tube amp.

Most of you have been useless, but I'm still going to thank pioneer and the other guy infant remember because I'm on my iPhone right now.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12379002*
> So you know as far as Internet, pioneerisloud has helped me more than the numerous audio forums ive been to as far as alternative to my broken velodyne. Maybe you shouldn't be ignorant. I'm here to learn.
> 
> Drjoey complained that all I talk about is my subwoofer, it's broken, it's a problem. And more importantly, NO ONE has given me any good advice regarding the Marantz AV8003 surround sound pre amp, or the Quad 405 amp, OR the energy RC 50 and if will keep up with a sub as good as my velodyne. OR anything regarding how linear a tube pre amp vs a solid state pre amp would sound even if it's amplified by a $20,000 Conrad Johnson tube amp.
> 
> Most of you have been useless, but I'm still going to thank pioneer and the other guy infant remember because I'm on my iPhone right now.


wow you are a douche. i was trying to help point you in a direction towards getting better info on specific audio equipment. i figure that this is more a computer forum and most people here would spend more money towards their computer then high end sound equipment.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;12379111*
> wow you are a douche. i was trying to help point you in a direction towards getting better info on specific audio equipment. i figure that this is more a computer forum and most people here would spend more money towards their computer then high end sound equipment.


I'm used to getting bashed everywhere and treated like a ******, then getting infractions for defending myself on this forum. My bad. I'll check the link out.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12379002*
> So you know as far as Internet, pioneerisloud has helped me more than the numerous audio forums ive been to as far as alternative to my broken velodyne. Maybe you shouldn't be ignorant. I'm here to learn.
> 
> Drjoey complained that all I talk about is my subwoofer, it's broken, it's a problem. And more importantly, NO ONE has given me any good advice regarding the Marantz AV8003 surround sound pre amp, or the Quad 405 amp, OR the energy RC 50 and if will keep up with a sub as good as my velodyne. OR anything regarding how linear a tube pre amp vs a solid state pre amp would sound even if it's amplified by a $20,000 Conrad Johnson tube amp.
> 
> Most of you have been useless, but I'm still going to thank pioneer and the other guy infant remember because I'm on my iPhone right now.


Corey. Face it, you're on an overclocking forum and you're asking very specific audio questions. I've told you this before. We'll try to help you but I have no idea about the gear you're talking about. Honestly, most of the help I give is based on what I've read online from different places (OCN not so much). You're going to have to spend a long time researching and reading. Most of what you learn won't come from the replies to your questions. That's kind of the icing on the cake. You'll learn a lot by reading over old threads on places like diyaudio. I don't know what else to tell you. Whenever I consider building something or getting new gear I've spent plenty of hours researching different possibilities, reading endless discussions, tutorials, guides... You can't expect to find specific answers relating to your specific gear all the time. Plus, by the time you figure out the answer to your question you've also learned a lot more whether you realize it or not.

I didn't remember your question about main speakers though, so my bad. TBH though I'd still not worry about a sub until you have the rest figured out. But that is mostly just my opinion. I'd also be wary of tube amps. To overgeneralize SS amps tend to have lower distortion, but like I said, that's an over-generalization.

Like I keep telling you, if you don't get an answer here after a while it's probably because nobody here knows the answer. So please, look how much everyone has been replying and helping you. It's totally uncalled for to call bullcrap when we don't know about the gear you are looking at or you don't get half a dozen experienced speaker designers replying every other day (on an overclocking forum).

Useless? Seriously? Don't insult the people trying to help you or they might just stop replying completely.


----------



## pioneerisloud

<<< Raises hand

I'm an experienced SUBWOOFER builder







. I've been ignoring his SPEAKER questions because I honestly don't know enough about Home Audio to help with it. The only things I know in home audio are budget stuff, and to avoid Logitech (personal experience there too).


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12379278*
> Corey. Face it, you're on an overclocking forum and you're asking very specific audio questions. I've told you this before. We'll try to help you but I have no idea about the gear you're talking about. Honestly, most of the help I give is based on what I've read online from different places (OCN not so much). You're going to have to spend a long time researching and reading. Most of what you learn won't come from the replies to your questions. That's kind of the icing on the cake. You'll learn a lot by reading over old threads on places like diyaudio. I don't know what else to tell you. Whenever I consider building something or getting new gear I've spent plenty of hours researching different possibilities, reading endless discussions, tutorials, guides... You can't expect to find specific answers relating to your specific gear all the time. Plus, by the time you figure out the answer to your question you've also learned a lot more whether you realize it or not.


It's not like I'm only asking questions on ONLY ocn. Every review is biased. Reading reviews is NOT a good way to gain speaker knowledge. Half the reviewers are idiots. I was pissed at the situation and targeting everyone including myself more than anything else. I really hate when the Internet can't teach me something I want to learn. Not only that, but for a long time, since before chat died, more often than not, I'm treated like an idiot when I'm here to learn. Now, I come up with questions that shouldn't even be hard for people who treat me like an idiot for defending my crossfade LP headphones and put words in my mouth who act like they know EVERYTHING... Apparently don't know.

How am I supposed to know if a Conrad Johnson amp, an NAD amp, a Marantz amp, a Mcintosh amp, a Quad amp, or Meridian amp is better?

How am I supposed to know how good studio monitors sound like and how good they are compared to speakers like Focal, Gallo, whaerfdale diamond, Theil, Boston acoustics, AE, B&W, B&O, ATC, Klipsch, PSB... When there's NO PLACE to demo them?

I walk into a starbcks and instantly notice that the speaker drivers are great and am annoyed that I can hear the plastic resonation in the enclosure. If I said that to the barista, I'd get shunned.

I helped set up a concert at my old highschool for a couple DJ friends. We used many mackie speakers and subs. I learned quick that I hate pa speakers for their plastic resonation as well (the reason I hated the Starbucks speakers). The highs are way too sharp, mids are muffled somewhat and bass is overwhelming with serious plastic resonation. The sub's were placed behind two giant cinderblock walls, 2 feet from them. I could hear the acoustical energy of the garbage mackie subs resonate from the wall, and turn the 5,000 ft auditorium behind the stage where the Dance was into a huge distorted bandpass with a lot of delay in bass response because of it.

Everyone at the dance thought it was the best sound system they've ever heard. I thought it was garbage. I hate PA speakers.

Apparently I have more developed hearing because I have mild Aspergers, which is a mild form of autism. I doubt this is true, but more than once it seemed like I could definitely hear under 20Hz. I've heard low notes very loud resonating off of buildings where melany friends could not. This isn't supposed to be humanly possible, so I guess I could be skitso, or their hearing is just garbage.

Anyway, I might have good hearing, but it doesn't help the fact that I will never know good speakers til I listen to them myself. I could spit audiophile brands in your face for hours, this doesn't make them any good.

I also need to get a shop area somewhere and start building enclosures, I need to learn how to make good crossovers, and learn how woofer materials react with other materials like MDF, bamboo, metal, polycarbonate, stones with certain coatings like tar, and other materials. Things like this should be easy to learn but I have no idea where to even start.


----------



## Darkapoc

I'd help more if he were consistent and could stick to one damn thing, I offered him help if he were to pm me I would gladly assist but reading through 15 plus posts a paragraph long gets annoying when you're a member of multiple OTHER forums.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


It's not like I'm only asking questions on ONLY ocn. Every review is biased. Reading reviews is NOT a good way to gain speaker knowledge. Half the reviewers are idiots. I was pissed at the situation and targeting everyone including myself more than anything else. I really hate when the Internet can't teach me something I want to learn. Not only that, but for a long time, since before chat died, more often than not, I'm treated like an idiot when I'm here to learn. Now, I come up with questions that shouldn't even be hard for people who treat me like an idiot for defending my crossfade LP headphones and put words in my mouth who act like they know EVERYTHING... Apparently don't know.

How am I supposed to know if a Conrad Johnson amp, an NAD amp, a Marantz amp, a Mcintosh amp, a Quad amp, or Meridian amp is better?

How am I supposed to know how good studio monitors sound like and how good they are compared to speakers like Focal, Gallo, whaerfdale diamond, Theil, Boston acoustics, AE, B&W, B&O, ATC, Klipsch, PSB... When there's NO PLACE to demo them?

I walk into a starbcks and instantly notice that the speaker drivers are great and am annoyed that I can hear the plastic resonation in the enclosure. If I said that to the barista, I'd get shunned.

I helped set up a concert at my old highschool for a couple DJ friends. We used many mackie speakers and subs. I learned quick that I hate pa speakers for their plastic resonation as well (the reason I hated the Starbucks speakers). The highs are way too sharp, mids are muffled somewhat and bass is overwhelming with serious plastic resonation. The sub's were placed behind two giant cinderblock walls, 2 feet from them. I could hear the acoustical energy of the garbage mackie subs resonate from the wall, and turn the 5,000 ft auditorium behind the stage where the Dance was into a huge distorted bandpass with a lot of delay in bass response because of it.

Everyone at the dance thought it was the best sound system they've ever heard. I thought it was garbage. I hate PA speakers.

Apparently I have more developed hearing because I have mild Aspergers, which is a mild form of autism. I doubt this is true, but more than once it seemed like I could definitely hear under 20Hz. I've heard low notes very loud resonating off of buildings where melany friends could not. This isn't supposed to be humanly possible, so I guess I could be skitso, or their hearing is just garbage.

Anyway, I might have good hearing, but it doesn't help the fact that I will never know good speakers til I listen to them myself. I could spit audiophile brands in your face for hours, this doesn't make them any good.

I also need to get a shop area somewhere and start building enclosures, I need to learn how to make good crossovers, and learn how woofer materials react with other materials like MDF, bamboo, metal, polycarbonate, stones with certain coatings like tar, and other materials. Things like this should be easy to learn but I have no idea where to even start.



Your riping on a whole industry one i happen to be active in cause you heard some crappy Mackie gear. Mackie can hardly be considered PA. I just reviewed 2 riders a week ago for band im bringing into my area and guess what "NO PEAVEY OR MACKIE" its in there about 4 times. REAL PA speakers can and generally do sound amazing because its live you only have one shot to get it spot on im looking at a JBL line array now to replace my carvin stacks. High school dances always sound like **** theres no setup time no time to tune the room and the music is bad to begin with. PA gear is great when used right i spend the better part of a day tunning my gear to the room before soundcheck. You need to be looking at the right brands JBL,Nexo,Martian.... and carvin for a more budget but not bad gear.


----------



## TARRCO

Big spender ayyy









Got these today and they sound like sex, have had several ear-gasms per second













































There being run by the Sherwood receiver you can see in the background


----------



## Darkapoc

Not to fond of the assembly but they do look quite gorgeous







, grats.


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12385992*
> Not to fond of the assembly but they do look quite gorgeous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , grats.


Ha, thanks. First ever somewhat expensive speakers









What's wrong with there assembly? Like the way there manufactured?


----------



## Darkapoc

The speakers are put in through the inside, so if one blows you have to replace the entire box just an annoyance(unless they are powered and the amp is mounted to the rear of the box)


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthspartan;12382896*
> Your riping on a whole industry one i happen to be active in cause you heard some crappy Mackie gear. Mackie can hardly be considered PA. I just reviewed 2 riders a week ago for band im bringing into my area and guess what "NO PEAVEY OR MACKIE" its in there about 4 times. REAL PA speakers can and generally do sound amazing because its live you only have one shot to get it spot on im looking at a JBL line array now to replace my carvin stacks. High school dances always sound like **** theres no setup time no time to tune the room and the music is bad to begin with. PA gear is great when used right i spend the better part of a day tunning my gear to the room before soundcheck. You need to be looking at the right brands JBL,Nexo,Martian.... and carvin for a more budget but not bad gear.


Well, those "good" PA speakers; are they in plastic enclosures?


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12387409*
> Well, those "good" PA speakers; are they in plastic enclosures?


A few of my cheap cheap floor monitors are. But most are made from Baltic birch and when you get into the line arrays like the JBL Vertc array im looking at its made form and engineered plywood called PlyMAX. The Mackie stuff you saw im assuming was on a pole mount? Cause i call that stuff on a stick its cheap and it works but cant compare to real racks and stacks or a good line array. When you get into PA you need to be buying from good names Mackie and Pevey are no no for any live event. Theres good stuff out there but its expensive to get good gear. I have some backers that are gonna invest in my business first item on my agenda will be about 1/4 of the final array size and thats gonna cost about 50k just to get going. Its not all bad.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthspartan;12387673*
> A few of my cheap cheap floor monitors are. But most are made from Baltic birch and when you get into the line arrays like the JBL Vertc array im looking at its made form and engineered plywood called PlyMAX. The Mackie stuff you saw im assuming was on a pole mount? Cause i call that stuff on a stick its cheap and it works but cant compare to real racks and stacks or a good line array. When you get into PA you need to be buying from good names Mackie and Pevey are no no for any live event. Theres good stuff out there but its expensive to get good gear. I have some backers that are gonna invest in my business first item on my agenda will be about 1/4 of the final array size and thats gonna cost about 50k just to get going. Its not all bad.


I was lead to believe that MDF is the best speaker exposure material over all wood


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12387821*
> I was lead to believe that MDF is the best speaker exposure material over all wood


Birch is one of the best out there. It's just considerably more expensive. I've told you this before







.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12387855*
> Birch is one of the best out there. It's just considerably more expensive. I've told you this before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Lol, I don't think 4x8 sheets of birch exist. What's the performance gains with birch over MDF?


----------



## bobfig

Its out there. From a quick google it seems like its more a prefernce. Birtch is usually cost around 3x more then mdf. Its just as stiff as mdf but lighter.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12387881*
> Lol, I don't think 4x8 sheets of birch exist. What's the performance gains with birch over MDF?


Birch doesn't vibrate as much as MDF does. I know there's a better term, but I'm extremely tired, and having a massive brain fart......sorry







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;12388367*
> Its out there. From a quick google it seems like its more a prefernce. Birtch is usually cost around 3x more then mdf. Its just as stiff as mdf but lighter.


See above. It's more than a preference, Birch is the superior wood for speaker building. Is it worth 3x the price? No, 99% of the time its not. Only if you've got deep pockets for building speakers, or if you DEMAND the best of the best. Or if you're pushing some SERIOUS power.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12388420*
> Birch doesn't vibrate as much as MDF does. I know there's a better term, but I'm extremely tired, and having a massive brain fart......sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> See above. It's more than a preference, Birch is the superior wood for speaker building. Is it worth 3x the price? No, 99% of the time its not. Only if you've got deep pockets for building speakers, or if you DEMAND the best of the best. Or if you're pushing some SERIOUS power.


Ya in PA power would be why cause every cab that uses birch is getting about 1K+ for power in my current system. Also cause its lighter and this stuff has to be somewhat mobile.


----------



## pioneerisloud

The way I like to look at it, although this is COMPLETELY wrong and inaccurate....

3/4" Birch = 1" MDF
1/2" Birch = 3/4" MDF

That's not even remotely CLOSE to being true. But, think of it like that, in terms of suppressing the vibrations of the enclosure. Of course proper bracing helps as well with either wood type.


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12375712*
> dude, volume knob on my velodyne at 75%, windows volume at 30% and itunes at 30% would start making things fall off tables across the 11,500 sq ft house, a floor down. the *iphone meter* said 87db then I turned my BX5a's off and it said 70db. no idea what's up with that. my body wasnt feeling ANY bass at all aside on the floor until I stepped inside my closet. The acoustical energy coming from the woofer actually turned my closet 10 ft away into a bandpass, lol. Stepping inside the closet turned my body into mush and made my hair stand up while sounding 100% clean aside from my window and house walls rattling.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12378765*
> Ok and you tell me how I could push 130+ db with no audible distortion with a QUARTER INCH of excursion and 400 watts...
> 
> I'm getting tired of this person saying this is right, another saying it's bullcrapmand this is right. My friends dad who is a *sound engineer tolde that 18Hz-85Hz isnt even more than 1.5 octaves and that a ported sub is a ******ed idea*, and that sealed subs have a much more flat frequency response.
> 
> How the hell am I supposed to learn when someone who has been building amplifiers and fixing them since he was 10 who has been a sound engineer for over 40 years is telling me things that contradict everything you guys are telling me?
> 
> If I go to college for sound engineering now, I'll be suspicious of EVERYTHING they teach me. This is seriously bull crap.
> 
> Oh yeah, drjoey: no one even said ANYTHING about the Marantz AV8003 pre amp/ surround sound processor I was looking at, or told me how Energy RC-50 would sound if I built a Quad 405 amplifier with 5 channels to power them. The help I got regarding my Velodyne is controversial to a sound engineer friend. No one will even tell me if a tube pre amp will sound more linear than a solid state pre amp. No one will tell me how linear the Marantz will sound. No one will tell me how good hooking up decent studio monitors to that Marantz will sound. No one will helpe fix my velodyne amp.
> 
> Epitome of bullcrap. Grade A, steamy piles of bull crap.


I LOL'ed.

Seriously, I said this about a millionth times(including other members), this is a computer fourm. This is *not an audio forum*. If you want the most help out of all kinds of audio people, go on an audio forum. HT Guide, Parts-Express' Techtalk forum, Audio Karma, AVS, Audio Asylum, and diyAudio, are all great audio forums. Go there and ask for help. I can almost guarantee they will give you more information about your questions than what OCN can provide you.


----------



## groundzero9

Baltic Birch will provide a more "live" sound than MDF. This is because it produces slightly different resonance frequencies than MDF. Baltic Birch is also lighter and strong than MDF, however usually two or three times the price. The weight of MDF makes it more ideal for subwoofers though. Mixing MDF and Baltic Birch will almost always sound better than one or the other. i.e. build a Baltic Birch box and brace it with MDF. (excluding subs)

Baltic Birch is used because the material is extremely uniform. It is void-free as opposed to normal plywoods that will have gaps, knots, and holes in the plys. You also don't have to mess with veneer when using Baltic Birch as it already has a nice outer ply. However Birch tends to be blotchy when trying to stain/varnish/seal it.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *groundzero9;12389233*
> Baltic Birch will provide a more "live" sound than MDF. This is because it produces slightly different resonance frequencies than MDF. Baltic Birch is also lighter and strong than MDF, however usually two or three times the price. The weight of MDF makes it more ideal for subwoofers though. Mixing MDF and Baltic Birch will almost always sound better than one or the other. i.e. build a Baltic Birch box and brace it with MDF. (excluding subs)
> 
> Baltic Birch is used because the material is extremely uniform. It is void-free as opposed to normal plywoods that will have gaps, knots, and holes in the plys. You also don't have to mess with veneer when using Baltic Birch as it already has a nice outer ply. However Birch tends to be blotchy when trying to stain/varnish/seal it.


Thanks for that helpful info. I couldn't help it. I took apart one of my BX5a studio monitors and realized how cheaply made they really are. The MDF is good enough at 1/2 inch with the pressure that's going on in the box, but the silk dome really is cheaply made even though it sounds awesome. The wires are flimsy for my tastes but it's bi amplified with only 40 watts going in the woofer and 30 in the tweeter.

I hooked up the amp to my advent prodigy II tower, ripped the garbage Mylar tweeter out of the advent plastic housing and glued in my silk dome from the BX5a in place into the advent tweeter mount. I then hooked the bx5a amp up to the woofer and tweeter in the advent. The advent box is maybe 1.25 cu ft with an ok 8 inch paper woofer with lots of excursion. It sounded much better due to being made from 3/4 inch MDF and bigger cu ft and it's sealed. I really don't like vented speakers. Frequency response went down about 10Hz as well. I blew out the older 20 year old drivers voice coil though, so I'm going to buy some really decent 8 inch woofers which will go down to low 30 Hz or lower and the active crossover with silk domes will take care of the rest. This will make my bx5a better than the bx8a.

My questions are:

If I get more powerful transformers, I'll get more power to my speakers, correct? I doubt m audio would waste time and money building two different circuit boards for their amps.

What's the tweeter crossover point in my m audio's? I need to make sure the woofer can go that high.

Is the hivi or Dayton 8 inch driver around 50 bucks better from parts express

Since I'm most likely going to use the 5 inch Kevlar woofers in the iPod dock I want to build, how big an enclosure sealed is needed for 80Hz extension on a nice 5 inch Kevlar woofer?


----------



## micah_jones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12375748*
> That's more than 80dB then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Sounds like closer to 130-140dB. Problem being, your iPhone meter isn't accurate. You need a TermLab to measure correctly. That's about $600 worth of hardware and software
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


OH MY GOD HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA I am sorry, but this is just about the funniest thing I have ever read.


----------



## coreyL

So no one can help me with the speaker question?


----------



## gorb

My recommendation:
Stop trying to make some random ass speakers and buy a kit or something


----------



## Boyboyd

My speakers are across the other side of my room, along with my amplifier. I want to start using my PC to listen to music again, but when i use a 3.5mm to phono cable there is a very loud buzzing.

Is it possible to get a shielded 5m 3.5mm to phono cable? Or would i be better putting my amp by my computer and laying speaker cable under the floor?


----------



## aroc91

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12388420*
> Birch doesn't vibrate as much as MDF does. I know there's a better term, but I'm extremely tired, and having a massive brain fart......sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Resonance?


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boyboyd;12406575*
> My speakers are across the other side of my room, along with my amplifier. I want to start using my PC to listen to music again, but when i use a 3.5mm to phono cable there is a very loud buzzing.
> 
> Is it possible to get a shielded 5m 3.5mm to phono cable? Or would i be better putting my amp by my computer and laying speaker cable under the floor?


I would do the latter of the 2 options, you trip over one wire or it gets snagged it gets pulled out the back of your amp the other way you destroy your 3.5mm jack.
Though before doing either I would just check wrapping a wire around the outer shielding of the rca cable and screwing it to the amp chassis(grounding issue with rca).


----------



## Boyboyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;12409223*
> I would do the latter of the 2 options, you trip over one wire or it gets snagged it gets pulled out the back of your amp the other way you destroy your 3.5mm jack.
> Though before doing either I would just check wrapping a wire around the outer shielding of the rca cable and screwing it to the amp chassis(grounding issue with rca).


That's an interesting theory. I'll try that now. Thanks.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;12406529*
> My recommendation:
> Stop trying to make some random ass speakers and buy a kit or something


I'm trying to learn enough about speakers to be able to engineer them myself, and you tell me to buy a kit out of sheer laziness? If the information was more easily available, I'd have built hundreds of speakers by now. It's people like you who tell me to buy a kit, or do this, do that instead of actually helpin me that prevent me from doing awesome stuff like building speakers, making my own wooden set of cans, re building my car and many other stuff.

95% of my computer probls were not diagnosed by ocn, but me. How are you going to realize that a motherboard warping is causing your intermittent BSOD's, or one missing capacitor that looks like they just didn't put one there unless you look at the back of the mobo, or a power supply putting out perfect power aside from the 3.3v rail emitting 3.7 volts, frying your q9450 but not your pentium d 945 netburst chip. How are you going to solve a bricked bios fr a power outage when you pull out the bios chip, the plastic housing for it breaks before the force required to retrieve the bios chip is applied. How do you fix fried opamps on an Auzentech X-Fi home theater HD? How does your i7 easily post in bios at 4.4ghz in water or air but won't budge past 4ghz booting on 4 different i7's and motherboard combinations, every time. Explain how my old 8800gtx would go past 105C and still play games fine with no performance issues, but then started crashing before it hit 80C. How come my 1.9v DDR3 ram didn't work in my first i7 build but works perfect undervolted in my current rig, still overclocked?

There are dozens upon dozens more questions that ocn never helped with computer wise, then whenever I ask things like how to fix a velodyne uld 18 servo circuit or amplifier, or how this speaker acoustically works with that enclosure, or how weight distributions from AWD cars bs RWD cars and FWD cars work, or any other question non computer related, one of three things will happen. Somone freaks out on me, bashes me for asking whatever I'm asking, or ignores my question.

Now, these questions I'm asking can't be too hard to figure out. I got a 1.2 gpa in high school. It's not like this should be that hard, I'm probably just not mentally capable of figuring them out on my own. How come the biggest nerd forum ever made can't figure these simple questions out?


----------



## gorb

lol?

If you really want to design your own speakers then you need to buy some books and/or take some classes. You can't just read about a couple nice drivers and stick em in any cabinet with whatever crossover.

In response to most everything else you wrote = I don't care.

edit:
Buy this book - https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=404_3&products_id=1652


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;12409815*
> lol?
> 
> If you really want to design your own speakers then you need to buy some books and/or take some classes. You can't just read about a couple nice drivers and stick em in any cabinet with whatever crossover.
> 
> In response to most everything else you wrote = I don't care.
> 
> edit:
> Buy this book - https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=404_3&products_id=1652


Too bad no one will even tell me what classes I need to take. The only college I know of that does speaker engineering is Georgia tech, and there's no way in hell I can get in that college. I guess I'll buy that book. Thanks.


----------



## bobfig

seriously, if your really wanting to make speakers from scratch i a did most of my reading off of actual diy "SPEAKER" websites. not on ocn. this is one of them i went to: http://www.diyaudio.com/


----------



## FearSC549

Making speaker by combing random crap works, but will not sound well. I can't believe I'm saying this again. Go on audio forums and lurk more. Read about people's builds, how they designed them, what they look out for, etc. Go read some speaker books. The more you spend your time here with your speaker questions, the more time you waste. If you do not want to take my advice, then have fun making random speakers.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


I'm trying to learn enough about speakers to be able to engineer them myself, and you tell me to buy a kit out of sheer laziness? If the information was more easily available, I'd have built hundreds of speakers by now. It's people like you who tell me to buy a kit, or do this, do that instead of actually helpin me that prevent me from doing awesome stuff like building speakers, making my own wooden set of cans, re building my car and many other stuff.

95% of my computer probls were not diagnosed by ocn, but me. How are you going to realize that a motherboard warping is causing your intermittent BSOD's, or one missing capacitor that looks like they just didn't put one there unless you look at the back of the mobo, or a power supply putting out perfect power aside from the 3.3v rail emitting 3.7 volts, frying your q9450 but not your pentium d 945 netburst chip. How are you going to solve a bricked bios fr a power outage when you pull out the bios chip, the plastic housing for it breaks before the force required to retrieve the bios chip is applied. How do you fix fried opamps on an Auzentech X-Fi home theater HD? How does your i7 easily post in bios at 4.4ghz in water or air but won't budge past 4ghz booting on 4 different i7's and motherboard combinations, every time. Explain how my old 8800gtx would go past 105C and still play games fine with no performance issues, but then started crashing before it hit 80C. How come my 1.9v DDR3 ram didn't work in my first i7 build but works perfect undervolted in my current rig, still overclocked?

There are dozens upon dozens more questions that ocn never helped with computer wise, then whenever I ask things like how to fix a velodyne uld 18 servo circuit or amplifier, or how this speaker acoustically works with that enclosure, or how weight distributions from AWD cars bs RWD cars and FWD cars work, or any other question non computer related, one of three things will happen. Somone freaks out on me, bashes me for asking whatever I'm asking, or ignores my question.

Now, these questions I'm asking can't be too hard to figure out. I got a 1.2 gpa in high school. It's not like this should be that hard, I'm probably just not mentally capable of figuring them out on my own. How come the biggest nerd forum ever made can't figure these simple questions out?


I feel bad for you that you type all this up and most people will just ignore it. The reason why people ignore, 'bash' you, etc etc. your question is because........THIS IS A COMPUTER FORUM, NOT A SUBWOOFER, SPEAKER, OR AMP FORUM. OCN is not the last forum on the internet. Don't complain about no one helping you out; you need to help yourself out(by joining your specific question forums).


----------



## coreyL

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *FearSC549*   Making speaker by combing random crap works, but will not sound well. I can't believe I'm saying this again. Go on audio forums and lurk more. Read about people's builds, how they designed them, what they look out for, etc. Go read some speaker books. The more you spend your time here with your speaker questions, the more time you waste. If you do not want to take my advice, then have fun making random speakers.

I feel bad for you that you type all this up and most people will just ignore it. The reason why people ignore, 'bash' you, etc etc. your question is because........THIS IS A COMPUTER FORUM, NOT A SUBWOOFER, SPEAKER, OR AMP FORUM. OCN is not the last forum on the internet. Don't complain about no one helping you out; you need to help yourself out(by joining your specific question forums).  
I'm a member of multiple audio forums >_>

Most of them tell me to buy kits and go away, lol. but yeah, you're right to a certain extent.

Oh yeah, so all of you know, the technology used in logitech audio systems...

http://www.st.com/stonline/products/...e/ds/13907.pdf

pretty much ALL of logitech's amplification alone is at 10% THD. it's terribad.

on a side note, I'm looking to actually build myself an ipod dock...made possibly out of birch, or MDF. The amplifier I'd like to use is here.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-773

I'd like to incorperate my BX5a drivers as the satellite drivers, buy two more silk dome tweeters. I'd like to design it so that the satellites themselves are sealed and have at least down to 80Hz extension in a very small sealed enclosure, then have the sub take over from there 80Hz or less. I need to look into small subs that can produce the lowest frequency. I need to find a good way to keep the ipod charged and battery options. so far, all I can think of is a powerful tool battery, but how do I set up a trickle charge system for that?

I need to make this audio dock system both have aux out and an actual ipod dock. The speaker enclosures will be as small as possible while still delivering quality sound under 80 Hz. the speakers will flip up on hinges. the sub will be in the middle and ported as well as possible to get under 80Hz response. I'd like the battery to last at least an hour if that's possible.

You may think I'm ******ed for ripping my BX5a's apart and planning to get two new 8 inch woofers for my advent towers and act like I wasted money, but far from it.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-774

Considering the M audio amps just as good or better than this, at class AB amplification, and I paid $180 for them, it's like getting the amps alone for cheaper with woofers and tweeters thrown in for free. a VERY good investment IMO.

Basically for that $100 or so for the amp, a couple of silk domes and some wood and supplies, I can EASILY make this ipod dock RAPE the $400 Bowers and Wilkons ipod dock and that is EXACTLY my plan. I'm probably going to go with a small 8 inch sub with the lowest frequency response possible.

  Amazon.com: Pioneer TSSW251 Shallow Mount 10 Inch 800 Watts Subwoofer: Electronics
My friend has two of these he NEVER uses anymore, so i MIGHT actually consider using this as the sub. My goal would be under 30Hz response with that sub in the smallest enclosure possible. I could probably get that sub for free for very cheap is why I bring it up.

edit:

It's either the pioneer or:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-456

Unless someone else has a better recommendation.

The way I see it is That Pioneer is nearly free and while it might not hit hard or handle A lot of power, it can acoustically reproduce bass pretty well (Iv'e heard it myself) I have no idea about the dayton, but like the idea of saving nearly $100 on my project.

So the plan is use birch or something of the sorts and make it as light and small as possible while within my acoustical specs and then figure out where to go from there.

I'm curious as to how 50 watts in the sub will sound, and how to make it portable, lol. I'm actually thinking about getting a horn tweeter as a possibility for high efficiency.

Secondary edit:

https://www.madisound.com/store/prod...oducts_id=8818

I think I may end up going for this tweeter. Does anyone have any experience with it?

I need to figure out if my m audio 5 inch kevlar woofers are capable of 3500Hz+ or if I need to make a 3 way crossover with some other type of speaker to fill in the gap.

That, and I need to actually figure out how to know what caps and coils and resistors to use for the XO.


----------



## jarble

update









we are almost done with the links









we are DONE


----------



## ThumperSD

I realized Im still not on this list. Can you add me jarble?


----------



## koven

Putting together a system for a buddy/client overseas...

http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?spkrfull&1301967290&/MBL-111F-Radialstrahler--DEMO-










MBL 111F
2x Bryston 28SST² 1000w Monoblocks
Audio Research Reference 3 Tube Pre
PS Audio PerfectWave DAC
PS Audio PerfectWave Transport
Wireworld Eclipse 6 Cables

Buying everything second hand off Audiogon, total about $60K.

Still looking for a power conditioner..

Getting shipped to my home in California.. so I'll snap some pictures when it arrives, even though it's not mine







Never had the pleasure of seeing MBL's in person yet, wish I could set them up for a demo before shipping it out, but there's just not enough space in my house to set it up, lol









On a side note, are there any good 110v-220v converters out there?


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD;12447602*
> I realized Im still not on this list. Can you add me jarble?


IIRC, he's not active on OCN anymore.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FearSC549;12448225*
> IIRC, he's not active on OCN anymore.


Jarble? Look up 3 posts, he posted 5 hours ago


----------



## ThumperSD

Yea his post is actually just before mine


----------



## gorb

my jbl sub is now gone









going to be looking at cheaper eD, HSU, and outlaw audio options now


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;12449442*
> my jbl sub is now gone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> going to be looking at cheaper eD, HSU, and outlaw audio options now


http://www.diyhifisupply.com/node/800

Is this better than tha Dayton 1000 watt plate amp? Could I use that amp to power my 10 ohm Velodyne ULD 18 subwoofer which takes 400 watts RMS?


----------



## RedWorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12478967*
> http://www.diyhifisupply.com/node/800
> 
> Is this better than tha Dayton 1000 watt plate amp? Could I use that amp to power my 10 ohm Velodyne ULD 18 subwoofer which takes 400 watts RMS?


Hi- I'm not sure. FWIW, I just wanted to say I've had the Dayton amp for three years now. I use it daily and pretty hard on the weekends. Still going strong.

It came with the Titanic 15 inch kit from PE. I've never made it clip. The para EQ has been really helpful taming peaks.


----------



## jarble

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD;12447602*
> I realized "Im still not on this list". Can you add me jarble?


umm that was your first post in this thread









I will be happy to add you if you will post your speakers








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FearSC549;12448225*
> IIRC, he's not active on OCN anymore.


still live and kicking:cheers: (though I have not been as active as I would like)

ps I have added some info on the list so if you do not look at the first page please do so







.


----------



## Lifeshield

Sony STRDN1000
Boston Acoustics Soundware XS

The subwoofer is behind the TV stand.

These are going on my PC permanantly when I move house and will, naturally, be properly positioned for proper surround effect.

Very nice sounding system that offers really good depth to bass. Playing games and watching Blu-Rays is a joy.

Now I just need to find another two matching speakers to complete the 7.1 surround that the AV reciever supports.

Thank god I have no neighbours currently, and that my new house is detached, lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'd like an update please







.

I still am rocking my Pioneer CS-405's. Same amp, same EQ. But I just added my 3 channel Jensen surround kit to it.

I'm using Dolby 3 Ch Surround mode, as I don't have room to move the Jensens to the rear. They add a nice bit of midrange to my bass / treble happy towers.

Front view:









Rear View (see the center):


----------



## gorb

I think you need a new mousepad


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;12513284*
> I think you need a new mousepad


Yeah I do...but meh. Last on my priorities, lol.


----------



## coreyL

I hope that's not his mom's basement


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12513801*
> I hope that's not his mom's basement


No, it's my parent's garage. The economy sucks around here right now. Can't find a job for anything. So I gotta do what I gotta do







.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12513819*
> No, it's my parent's garage. The economy sucks around here right now. Can't find a job for anything. So I gotta do what I gotta do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Lol, Iv'e got laid off my last two jobs. I know how that is







Been living literally off of one Chipotle burrito a day for over a year now.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;12513284*
> I think you need a new mousepad


Ew. New mouse and keyboard too







.

If you can use the whole garage, spread out the speakers a bit. They'll sound much better filling the whole room than they will pointing at your leg







. That poor center hiding behind the monitor







.

*edit*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12516735*
> Lol, Iv'e got laid off my last two jobs. I know how that is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Been living literally off of one Chipotle burrito a day for over a year now.


^^ the same guy who wants to spend $1K on a sub







. At least spend some of that on a second meal







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12516740*
> Ew. New mouse and keyboard too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you can use the whole garage, spread out the speakers a bit. They'll sound much better filling the whole room than they will pointing at your leg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . That poor center hiding behind the monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Nah, I can't. I had to use as little space as possible. My dad does steel fabrication out here, so I have to leave him some room







.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12516771*
> Nah, I can't. I had to use as little space as possible. My dad does steel fabrication out here, so I have to leave him some room
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Oh nice. You should get him to make you a case







.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12516787*
> Oh nice. You should get him to make you a case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I tried. He's too busy with his mounting business (game heads and furs).


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12516834*
> I tried. He's too busy with his mounting business (game heads and furs).


Thats why the process of my old 93 DSM eclipse GS into a RWD 500+ WHP track car will take a while to undergo. My step dad owns a towing company and manages two apartment buildings, lol. That could take a while.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12516834*
> I tried. He's too busy with his mounting business (game heads and furs).


Hm...you said you didn't have a job... Work for him for a while in exchange for a case. Or does he not trust you that much lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;12516907*
> Hm...you said you didn't have a job... Work for him for a while in exchange for a case. Or does he not trust you that much lol.


I don't do steel work







. I will be in charge of their computer systems once they're done getting the business started.


----------



## Darkapoc

New amp today for 30$ God bless Craigslist














.
5.1 channel 96khz digital input, Kind of basic features (don't care about lack of 196 I think it's a gimmick anyways)
Much more importantly it has Rca level inputs for each individual channel( the name slips my mind half asleep)
Only thing I don't like so far is the input sensitivity is 550mv







but 30 dollars

Kenwood VR-615

My original Idea of trying out this power acoustik as a center isn't working, it isn't sensitive enough at all. Will have to find something new, though I do have 6 bose tweeters sitting around xD


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


New amp today for 30$ God bless Craigslist














.
5.1 channel 96khz digital input, Kind of basic features (don't care about lack of 196 I think it's a gimmick anyways)
Much more importantly it has Rca level inputs for each individual channel( the name slips my mind half asleep)
Only thing I don't like so far is the input sensitivity is 550mv







but 30 dollars

Kenwood VR-615

My original Idea of trying out this power acoustik as a center isn't working, it isn't sensitive enough at all. Will have to find something new, though I do have 6 bose tweeters sitting around xD


Man, there is a KILLER deal on my local CL right now. My exact same receiver, a Sony tape deck (blargh), and some interesting looking vintage-ish KLH towers. For $30 for the whole freaking lot!

What I would give to at least see if it even worked, lol.


----------



## Darkapoc

I love KLH Yes I know they're not too great but that was my first set of speakers.


----------



## somebodysb2

hey guys I got a pair of EgglestonWorks Ivy, rich I know
will try to get pics up


----------



## TARRCO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *somebodysb2;12547095*
> hey guys I got a pair of EgglestonWorks Ivy, rich I know
> will try to get pics up


Pics or it didn't happen!


----------



## Darkapoc

Foudn some gorgeous blue label CV's at the flea market today lightweight mids and GORGEOUS silk domes







No cash though


----------



## somebodysb2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TARRCO;12547263*
> Pics or it didn't happen!


sure, in 5 hours when i get back from work


----------



## ThumperSD

I <3 CL
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarble;12489487*
> umm that was your first post in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be happy to add you if you will post your speakers


Orly?! I just got this desk off CL for $50. I'll post better pics in the morning.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;12516883*
> Thats why the process of my old 93 DSM eclipse GS into a RWD 500+ WHP track car will take a while to undergo. My step dad owns a towing company and manages two apartment buildings, lol. That could take a while.


Why do you want to make a DSM RWD?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThumperSD;12551025*
> I <3 CL
> 
> Why do you want to make a DSM RWD?


To be unique


----------



## coreyL

I'm about to have a new setup for a while when I finish my Advent studio monitor conversions. I'm going to have this setup in a seperate room hooked up for people to listen to music in my other room.










It's a decent receiver I got for free, decent meaning it makes anything from Bose or Logitech ever made sound like garbage.










This is the stock speaker, my Kenwood bookshelves. Their tweeters sound pretty good. They are basically Panasonic paper tweeters, much better than any Mylar tweeters ever made.










I'll be swapping my BX5a drivers in them until I build my iPod dock with them. They sound a good deal better than the stock kenwood drivers, and the tweeters are good enough to keep up. If the crossover was better, it would sound just as good as the stock BX5A's.

Edit:

I decided to try to use this amp on the left channel with trebble on minimum and bass full from my center out on my computer from a cord I ripped out of $5 headphones and it works. From 40 watts RMS from a stereo 70's receiver, I'm getting more bass than most 12 inch subs can deliver from $200 or less subs.

Anyway, to my standards, it sounds like crap, so does anyone have any reccomendations for a powerful sub amp? I'm thinking of just getting:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-811

I'll just keep using it till my driver dies, and when it does, I'll pop in an LMS ultra 5400 and use that until the box I build for the 5400 is built, then I'll have my sub setup finally done.

Any thoughts on how my Velodyne ULD 18 would sound amplified by this? How would it compare to say, a Maelstorm 18 inch sub, which gets about 2.4% THD @ 110 decibels, 20Hz?

I don't know enough about audio yet to predict how it will make my velodyne sound, but with less than 1% THD, and taking into account that my Velodyne sub is actually 10 ohms, and this amp puts out 497 watts RMS at 8 ohms, I'd be pushing maybe 420ish watts to my rough estimate max from this amp into my Velodyne. The velodyne is rated at 400 watts RMS. Does signal to noise ratio at 98db mean it's impossible to push over 98db from the sub hooked up to that? because my sub is rated 104db @ 20Hz with 0.5% distortion, can push over 120dv with a little under 3% distortion.

meaning, I'd be 98db maxxed out with 0.92% THD from the amp, meaning that amp will literally bottleneck my current sub driver?

Then again, I have no idea the performance difference with the servo activated or not activated. The servo is an accelerometer attached to the the inside of the cone of my sub driver which measures woofer movement about 3500 times a second and re positions the diaphragm accordingly, which actually works somewhat like noise canceling technology in order to greatly reduce distortion. When the servo worked, it was the best sounding sub Iv'e ever heard. I really have no idea how the servo affects things, can someone point me out on this?


----------



## Darkapoc

Got more free speakers (car audio) cheapies That I threw in the old towers for my rear channel will probably build a little 6x6x6 for each one for surround channels
Rockford fosgate p152c(Cheapos), nice titanium tweeters though xD.


----------



## Parsley

Do a pair of M-Audio AV40s working from a Xonar D2X count?










I realise it is a bit gloomy, sorry!


----------



## battlecryawesome

I have this speaker system, its a 8 way. It does not sound bad at all and is super loud.

http://www.amazon.com/Marathon-DJ-2183-18-Inch-Three-Loudspeaker/dp/B0013TNLIK/ref=sr_1_1010?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1297311311&sr=1-1010]Amazon.com: Marathon DJ-2183 Dual 18-Inch Three Way Loudspeaker: Musical Instruments[/URL]

I have a 8 ohm 10 inch bazooka tube that runs on The 2nd channel.
Heres my amp.




Not sure if i qualify for this club.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Hey Corey:
I'm thinking about buying a TC Sounds LMS-R. ujelly?


----------



## eureka

Getting rid of my BX5a soon, got these and a rotel amp to replace them.










B&W DM560. Waiting on amp and I need some stands, but I can't wait. Heard them on the previous owner's Naim setup and they sounded incredible - for the price at least.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;12595230*
> Hey Corey:
> I'm thinking about buying a TC Sounds LMS-R. ujelly?


Nope, I'm actually considering getting that 5 inch driver instead of an lms ultra 5400, but I would miss my Velodyne's brute force too much.

What to do?

EDIT: 15 inch driver, lol. not 5 inch.


----------



## ThumperSD

New pic


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battlecryawesome;12594751*
> I have this speaker system, its a 8 way. It does not sound bad at all and is super loud.
> 
> Amazon.com: Marathon DJ-2183 Dual 18-Inch Three Way Loudspeaker: Musical Instruments
> 
> I have a 8 ohm 10 inch bazooka tube that runs on The 2nd channel.
> Heres my amp.
> Amazon.com: Pyle-Pro PDG4000 Blue Rock 4000 Watt Professional Stereo Power Amplifier (19-inch Rack Mount): Musical Instruments
> Not sure if i qualify for this club.


That's a 3-way. When I saw you wrote 8-way, I almost died.


----------



## battlecryawesome

edit edit.. It says 8 way. I guess it is a 3 way..







lol


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *battlecryawesome*


Lmao dont die.. it is an 8 way with a built in cross over. Ive been in 3 ways its no 3 way.lol jk.


8 way active crossover, go go.

SIXTEEN 4 GUAGE WIRES SOLDERED ONTO DAT PCB

Yeeeeeeee


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


8 way active crossover, go go.

SIXTEEN 4 GUAGE WIRES SOLDERED ONTO DAT PCB

Yeeeeeeee


Why would you even need sixteen 4 gauge wires on a home system? Seriously.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Why would you even need sixteen 4 gauge wires on a home system? Seriously.










Hyperbole/joke, lol.

My friend soldered in 12 gauge wire into his PSB speakers with $50 capacitors replacing every cap that was on the crossover, lol, it was pretty arbitrary in the end, but he prides himself in it and thinks it makes him better somehow, the wire it came with was fine.

Why would you even need 12 gauge wire for 60 watts RMS? Lol.


----------



## ACM

OMG look at this godly speaker & receiver heaven this guy is sitting on.

http://orlando.craigslist.org/ele/2249529094.html

I really want to see what condition that SX-3400 is in.
Temped to pick some of this stuff up.


----------



## TARRCO

Sup? Been a while since I've been in this thread


----------



## Xyro TR1

Add me! New speaker setup...

Source: Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic
Amplifier: Tripath TA2020 (0.05% THD, get!)
Front: JBL D38 3-way
Sub: JBL Venue Sub12


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*











Add me! New speaker setup...

Source: Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic
Amplifier: Tripath TA2020 (0.05% THD, get!)
Front: JBL D38 3-way
Sub: JBL Venue Sub12


Not to ruin your enjoyment but that's a terrible place to use your D38 as near-field monitors.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FearSC549;12663596*
> Not to ruin your enjoyment but that's a terrible place to use your D38 as near-field monitors.


Why do you say that? They sound pretty damn impressive right now... no distortion to be found, full frequency range is audible unless I have the sub/crossover on.


----------



## Zero4549

AV-40 count?


----------



## Mongol

NHT SuperZero 2.1?









Think I'm about to pull the trigger unless I'm told _RUN AWAY!_


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12669184*
> NHT SuperZero 2.1?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I'm about to pull the trigger unless I'm told _RUN AWAY!_


Good choice


----------



## Mongol

Almost anything is better than the Z2300's that're making my ears bleed currently. So...looks like I just shot myself in the foot.


----------



## BillOhio

Audioengine P4's hooked up to the Yamaha R-1000 I bought off Craig's tonight. It's 3 am and my roomate is thrilled with my purchase


----------



## Mongol

Finally came in earlier today.


----------



## InvalidUserID

I'm using some Soundsticks 2 2.1.

Nothing special and I don't know how well thought of they are here but I got them for free.


----------



## Buzzin92

Hello, well recently i think i'v been turning into am audiophile so ya'know. Heres my set of room shakers









Hope i can join the club!









Kenwood A-57 Amplifier (havnt a clue on the specs, cannot for the lifeof it find anything on the internet about it. Its not the KA-57

The speakers are Mission M73's and iv got a pair of JVC's just out of the picture. The only problem is the Right mission speaker in the picture has no Bass Driver at the moment (dad fried the coil on it with his amp, currently repairing it,and i'v repaired the left speaker!)


















EDIT: Im currently thinking of replacing the Amplifier with a Quad 303 Amp and 33 Pre amp/ Had them before and they were the best sounding pre/amp i had ever owned, especially after replacing the components.


----------



## Liighthead

^ wouldnt that sound... weird? being so high lol


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by **********;12731457*
> Finally came in earlier today.


I knew I would see this here.


----------



## Buzzin92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liighthead;12761697*
> ^ wouldnt that sound... weird? being so high lol


Actually no, i did think it would be a silly place but then i tried it and it sounds no different. plus its the only place they will go in my room lol


----------



## Lifeshield

Quote:



Originally Posted by *InvalidUserID*


I'm using some Soundsticks 2 2.1.

Nothing special and I don't know how well thought of they are here but I got them for free.


I bought some Soundstick III's today. I think for what they are, and how cheap they are, they sound pretty damn good.


----------



## raidmaxGuy

I want in!

Design Acoustics Point Source PS-55 (division of Audio-Technica)
w/ custom installed Kenwood KFC-T101 dome tweeters

Things collecting dust until I buy an amp....
50w 8" Aiwa Ts-W5 sub (old but indestructible







)
Paradigm Home Theater 20's (tiny little buggers)


----------



## coreyL

Can you please update me for some M-Audio BX5a's converted into my Advent prodigy II towers, the silk domes, active crossover and 0.5% THD amplification used in the advent encolosures with the standard 8 inch woofers. I plan on getting some Hivi or Dayton 8 inch woofers for better bass response soon but they sound far greater than stock BX5a's.

That is paired with my Velodyne ULD18 subwoofer. I will get a surround sound processor as soon as I can as well as upgrade to some Energy RC 70 or possibly other floorstanders. I'm not impressed whatsoever with Klipsch's mid end products or the Energy CF70, maybe the RC70 will impress me.

I may be snobby having heard real audiophile setups worth thousands, or it could just be me =/ no idea at all.

My setup is only half ghetto audiophile quality. The BX5a's are complete garbage compared to REALLY GOOD speakers imo and do not even deserve to be considered anywhere near audiophile quality.


----------



## Shadowww

Creative SoundBlaster X-Fi Titanium HD
Sony TA-FE320R
2x Radiotehnika S-150.


----------



## drjoey1500

Bump. My speakers sound good. Every once in a while I'll break them out and set them up in the middle of one of our biggest rooms (that has carpet and acoustic ceiling). Like right now. Sounds amazing. If only I could have it this way all the time







.


----------



## gorb

I still have the RC-10s and Super Eight for the computer, but I am no longer using the AV123 ELT525Ms and I sold the JBL sub. Currently have RC-50s, RC-LCR, and CB-5 for my movie/console setup. I'll get a sub soon


----------



## Juzam

I think the list is dead...


----------



## battlecryawesome

Here's a picture of my system,
Two Pyle PADH152 15" 8-WAY Pa Speaker s
http://www.pyleaudio.com/itemdetail.asp?brand=&cat1=Pro%20Audio&cat2=PA%20Cabinets&model=PADH152
10 inch Bazooka tube adds more bass,
Two amps, Pyle pro 4000
. http://www.pyleaudio.com/itemdetail.asp?brand=&cat1=Pro%20Audio&cat2=Power%20Amplifiers&model=PDG4000
It makes my ears ring.


----------



## NoGuru

My goodness, that is awesome!


----------



## bobfig

meh its pyle....


----------



## battlecryawesome

I like it. Thanks Nog


----------



## Liighthead

dam they must sound alright..... from down the road


----------



## battlecryawesome

I think they sound great, I bought the first amp and speaker for a party then was impressed enough to to order another amp and speaker.
Most people [me for sure] download music online so the quality of the mp3 is not what it could be.
I could nt be happier.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


meh its pyle....


Agreed pyle is the way lower end of PA gear. Its made mostly for DJ's who like to be flashy.


----------



## battlecryawesome

That right, why would you pay more sor something ? just to say it hi end? lol, I look at what you guys have and well ,,lol


----------



## gorb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *battlecryawesome*


That right, why would you pay more sor something ? just to say it hi end? lol, I look at what you guys have and well ,,lol


Obviously to get quality and accuracy. You don't always have to pay more, either. Pyle is not worth buying.


----------



## battlecryawesome

It was worth buying for me.Like I said I could nt be happier with this set up.
The little 6,8,10 inch systems you guys have I dont want. I spent a grand total and its not about money not that I have a ton of it,but I know what I want and what I want is not what you want.
I used to have and awesome sounding stereo that had wood 6 inch speakers but they would nt do me any good because they are not loud and the quality would nt stand out do to my music is from online and not store bought.


----------



## gorb

Obviously if you are happy with what you have then that's great...but my "little speakers" will easily play loud enough to give you hearing damage.

Louder isn't always better :/


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;13036089*
> Obviously if you are happy with what you have then that's great...but my "little speakers" will easily play loud enough to give you hearing damage.
> 
> Louder isn't always better :/


They're actually probably less likely to give you hearing damage than a crappy quality speaker that's prone to distortion and frequency peaking...

I have more than enough to buy a Pyle of ... system like that or bigger, but a nice high quality 2.1 system suits my needs quite well. IMO, once you hear high quality audio, you can never go back to crap.


----------



## Quicksand

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1;13037273*
> They're actually probably less likely to give you hearing damage than a crappy quality speaker that's prone to distortion and frequency peaking...
> 
> I have more than enough to buy a Pyle of ... system like that or bigger, but a nice high quality 2.1 system suits my needs quite well. IMO, once you hear high quality audio, you can never go back to crap.


You havent said one thing thats factule or true.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battlecryawesome;13035677*
> That right, why would you pay more sor something ? just to say it hi end? lol, I look at what you guys have and well ,,lol


My carvin gear only costs a little more than the pyles you have and is easily 10x the quality. Pyle has always been about flash. As for the jbl's in my sig they were $50 at a estate sale and are appraised at over 1k on jbl's forums. Not all of us have invested tons of cash into our stuff.


----------



## battlecryawesome

I know I looked into them. What you guys are missing is I know what I have and whats out there and am HAPPY,lol..happy happy hahahah.
I wanted to stop arguing but I cant.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quicksand;13037410*
> You havent said one thing thats factule or true.


Lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battlecryawesome;13037740*
> I know I looked into them. What you guys are missing is I know what I have and whats out there and am HAPPY,lol..happy happy hahahah.
> I wanted to stop arguing but I cant.


Hey dude, if you're happy that's all that matters.


----------



## battlecryawesome

Thank you. Thats all I have been trying to say.
I bought a 32 inch LCD tv for my bedroom and its a 60hz Ill bet people would say its not the best so you should nt have bought it. Its perfect tho , I think.


----------



## Mikecdm

I don't see why people have to bash on the Pyle speakers. Obviously they are not for critical listening. These things are meant to get loud. Distortion? if they can handle the power, what distortion. The amps, might not be the best quality, but I'm sure they can push some speakers. Due to the source, i'm sure that the set up is not degrading anything.

The only thing I wonder about is the bass tube, I can't imagine it serving a purpose when there are 4 15" drivers beside it.

One more thing, the thread title says speaker club, not "audiophile" speaker club.


----------



## battlecryawesome

The bass tube would not be my first choice but I had an open channel so I hooked it up and it makes it sound a little fuller,
I would like to get some kind of sub and swap it out,but I might be spending money on a fishing boat not sure yet. Im dieing to go fishing.
.....
and well said Mike.Thanks


----------



## Mygaffer

Just picked up a pair of Boston CR9 speakers for a flat $29.99 at Goodwill today, perfect working order and sound surprisingly great.








I have sourced some great stuff from thrift stores.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mygaffer*


Just picked up a pair of Boston CR9 speakers for a flat $29.99 at Goodwill today, perfect working order and sound surprisingly great.








I have sourced some great stuff from thrift stores.


Another good thrift store find.


----------



## noname

Hello everyone,

Would anyone be interested in purchasing the following:
Onix Reference 0.5s
Denon DA-500 DAC
TCA-Gizmo amp (first revision)
Soloz custom RCA cables

*All are pictured below


----------



## Shiobock

Behringer B3031A, they're enormous in person, weigh 15kg per speaker and the 8.75" woofer is bigger than my previous subwoofer, it's immense.


----------



## OverthePond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiobock;13062798*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Behringer B3031A, they're enormous in person, weigh 15kg per speaker and the 8.75" woofer is bigger than my previous subwoofer, it's immense.


That is one sexy set-up. I love the headphone holder.


----------



## dasparx

Got 2x Wharfedale Diamond 5
Will make better pic soon enough.
Running them with an Bang&Olufsen Beocenter 2100, neat cheap vintage combo.


----------



## noname

Willing to give the speaker club a good deal on parts from my last post. This is the first place i have posted my stuff up, and will be giving preferential treatment to members.
If anyone is interested, shoot me a PM and we can discuss things.


----------



## phazer11

So... hi for one.
So say for instance I had dell and/or M-Audiospeakers those would be excluded correct?


----------



## Iceman23

And/or? Speakers are required to be in the speaker club


----------



## gorb




----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;13109070*


I think I said this before, but you should pull those speakers away from the tv more. Especially with a center channel. It looks like you have room to move them each a couple feet to the left/right of the tv without them being stuffed in the corner. Looks good though. It's a shame you had to get out of bed to take those pics though







. With a room like that you wouldn't have much motivation to get up lol.


----------



## gorb

I would like to have them with a little more room apart, but unfortunately there really isn't anywhere else for them to go. The left speaker is as close to the closet door as possible, and the right speaker is right next to where a subwoofer will have to go (where the fan is currently located). Also, if I got rid of that shelf near the doorway and made more room to shift the tv stand and speaker to the right, it would end up being off center from the bed and rear speakers.

Basically my room is a big mess of compromises


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;13116001*
> I would like to have them with a little more room apart, but unfortunately there really isn't anywhere else for them to go. The left speaker is as close to the closet door as possible, and the right speaker is right next to where a subwoofer will have to go (where the fan is currently located). Also, if I got rid of that shelf near the doorway and made more room to shift the tv stand and speaker to the right, it would end up being off center from the bed and rear speakers.
> 
> Basically my room is a big mess of compromises


Oh I completely overlooked the closet. Just move the right speaker as far as you can to the right (move the fan). Measure how far you moved it, and move the left speaker the same amount (yes, in front of the closet). They should be pulled away from the back wall a couple feet anyway, so that still leaves you enough room to open the closet some in order to reach in. When you get the sub, put it where your right speaker is now, or experiment around to find a better spot elsewhere in the room.

Priorities first, IMO its better to have difficulty picking your clothes in the morning than to compromise your soundstage for the rest of the day







. Just by rough estimation, that would leave your left speaker about three feet from the side wall and two feet away from the back wall (closet door). It's at least worth a try for a couple days







.

Actually, your bed looks to be quite a ways away from the speakers so you could even afford to bring them a little closer to you if you really must be able to open the closet door









Lol, if you call that room a compromise, you should see mine







. (*edit* I'm perfectly happy with my room, it's just not so great for speakers)


----------



## gorb

It's a walk in closet, so I do need to have access to it. Maybe I'll just try rearranging whenever I finally get a sub


----------



## Lifeshield

Updating my speakers.

*The old* (still own these)

Sony STRDN1000 & Boston Acoustic Soundware XS for watching Blu Rays and listening to music.

Pics further back in the thread (Page 208 I think).

*The new*

Harman Kardon Soundstick IIIs for my PC (to replace my cheapass Logitechs as I wanted my main speakers with my HDTV and Blu Ray player).




























The Harman Kardon Soundstick III's are pretty awesome. They deliver tremendous bass for such small, weird looking, and cheaply priced, speakers. Definitely great value for money. They dont drop as low, or go as loud as my main system (nowhere near haha), but they deliver a sound and performance that rivals midi systems on the market today easily. Not bad at all for a little 2.1 speaker package.

I would definitely reccommend a try for anyone looking for a good set of 2.1 speakers at a budget price.


----------



## drjoey1500

Hey guys, one of my friends is going to be looking for some speakers soon. I advised him to watch craigslist for some awesome vintage stuff. Any suggestions as to what to look for?

Which brands for speakers and amps should he look for? It would be helpful if you could specify what years/models are better but I really just want to find something good that's not a ripoff. I completely forgot to tell him to look at salvation army too, but again, I need to know what brands to look for.

He might want surround sound eventually so he may have to buy a receiver (maybe a used one as well, just not vintage







).

Thanks for helping







.


----------



## frankth3frizz

my uncle said he got me a pair of JBL studio monitors for 90$ and they're 8" he didnt tell me the exact model and he said they sound good(hes a party DJ so idk if his judgement is good) were there bad JBL studio monitors?


----------



## Shiobock

Quote:



Originally Posted by *frankth3frizz*


my uncle said he got me a pair of JBL studio monitors for 90$ and they're 8" he didnt tell me the exact model and he said they sound good(hes a party DJ so idk if his judgement is good) were there bad JBL studio monitors?


I'm fairly sure a "party DJ" has better evaluation skills than a normal consumer coming from Logitechs or whatnot, he's not clueless about the inner workings and equipment, at least.

Also, JBL has made good monitors, and I've heard nothing but praise of the newest ones.


----------



## frankth3frizz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shiobock*


I'm fairly sure a "party DJ" has better evaluation skills than a normal consumer coming from Logitechs or whatnot, he's not clueless about the inner workings and equipment, at least.

Also, JBL has made good monitors, and I've heard nothing but praise of the newest ones.


but then if you think about it he deals with live sound which is different than recording sound monitors. but he does have mackie monitors and yamaha monitors when he plays his playlist. i dont doubt his listening skills at all though


----------



## coreyL

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=302-732

I want to use this speaker cabinet with these woofers, and the plate amp from my BX5a's to make better studio monitors.










http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=297-446

this is the woofer.










http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=275-140#

That's the tweeter. Does anyone know how this will sound with the amp from a BX5a? I'm hoping it will sound at least as good as a BX8a. That is my goal.Also, bigger transformers in the plate amp will increase power, right? I might try to get 90 plus watts out of these if it's simple and easy.

The sealed volume matches pretty well, it's a well built cab, and woofer, and looks damn good. I figured try this before trying to build crossovers would be easier, especially since I could use the 5 inch kevlar's for the ipod dock I Want to build.

Yourthoughts?


----------



## bobfig

umm i don't know this but your doing this all wrong. i don't see why you want to keep tearing other speakers up to cannibalize them when you could of sold them off and make money to do it the right way. all the parts you chose are good stuff but with the woofer you NEED to have a low pass cross over at around 1.2kHz max with a min of a 2 way crossover. as for the tweeter you need to address that its a 4 ohm and add a resister to bring the resistance up to 8 ohms. also its going to have to have a high pass crossover at a min of 3 way crossover at 1.8kHz. ideally i would say it would be in the best option to a a mid woofer that would handle from ~900-3500Hz. as for using the amp from the BX5a would be bad as it most likely has a built in crossover that is set specifically for the speakers that it was meant for. as i tell every one it would be a best option to get a dedicated amp/receiver to power speakers and not use plate amps unless its for a sub. you can find a nice receiver off of Craigslist for cheep and not have to worry about power options for later custom builds and upgrades.


----------



## AUS.R34P3R

Hey guys.

Well I recently acquired some Dali Concept 10's and let me say they are truly beautiful.

Look under "Audio Home" to see what they run off.
A better amp would probably be my next upgrade, but for now it is amply sufficient.

The sound is rich and the bass is smooth and full, very powerful without being 'boomy' and drowning out the mid and high ranges.
Can listen to anything from soft rock, to metal and electronic and it's all presented masterfully.
By the far the best purchase/investment I have ever made.
If you haven't heard these in person before, DO IT!


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*











http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=302-732

I want to use this speaker cabinet with these woofers, and the plate amp from my BX5a's to make better studio monitors.










http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=297-446

this is the woofer.










http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=275-140#

That's the tweeter. Does anyone know how this will sound with the amp from a BX5a? I'm hoping it will sound at least as good as a BX8a. That is my goal.Also, bigger transformers in the plate amp will increase power, right? I might try to get 90 plus watts out of these if it's simple and easy.

The sealed volume matches pretty well, it's a well built cab, and woofer, and looks damn good. I figured try this before trying to build crossovers would be easier, especially since I could use the 5 inch kevlar's for the ipod dock I Want to build.

Yourthoughts?













































I still don't understand why are you just naming random speakers and wanting to create a build out of them. Designing a good-sounding speaker is not as easy as putting a computer together; it's way more complex than that. Also, M-Audio plate amp sucks.

Have you been going on any DIY audio forums?


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*











http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=302-732

I want to use this speaker cabinet with these woofers, and the plate amp from my BX5a's to make better studio monitors.










http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=297-446

this is the woofer.










http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...umber=275-140#

That's the tweeter. Does anyone know how this will sound with the amp from a BX5a? I'm hoping it will sound at least as good as a BX8a. That is my goal.Also, bigger transformers in the plate amp will increase power, right? I might try to get 90 plus watts out of these if it's simple and easy.

The sealed volume matches pretty well, it's a well built cab, and woofer, and looks damn good. I figured try this before trying to build crossovers would be easier, especially since I could use the 5 inch kevlar's for the ipod dock I Want to build.

Yourthoughts?


If you really want a good sounding amp that's relatively cheap get a t amp they're incredibly low power great clarity and are usually able to be switched around and modded VERY easily(op amps usually)
as far as finding speakers, get a good audio design program, study up on speaker design, REAL speaker design, and run them through the program, THEN learn about passive crossovers, how to design them, how to make the speakers you want mesh just right, and don't forget to factor in the peaks that you want your speakers to have or a flat response curve.

Though I do LOVE hose silk domes









But personally I'm not too into aluminum cones :/ Don't like the sound effect it gives the response curve.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;13232079*
> If you really want a good sounding amp that's relatively cheap get a t amp they're incredibly low power great clarity and are usually able to be switched around and modded VERY easily(op amps usually)
> as far as finding speakers, get a good audio design program, study up on speaker design, REAL speaker design, and run them through the program, THEN learn about passive crossovers, how to design them, how to make the speakers you want mesh just right, and don't forget to factor in the peaks that you want your speakers to have or a flat response curve.
> 
> Though I do LOVE hose silk domes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But personally I'm not too into aluminum cones :/ Don't like the sound effect it gives the response curve.


Little problem. One of the silk domes blew out in my bx5a's, so why not use parts I already have and see if I can make the, better than the bx8a? Lol honestly, my biggest problem by far is learning how to make a crossover. I have no idea where to start.

By the way, I tried hooking up my bx5a amp to my advent prodigy II towers with a silk dome ghetto rigged into it with the stock 8 inch driver. It sounded a lot better than stock. This is why I'm even considering doing this. I don't have to make a crossover, that driver matches up with that enclosure well as a sealed box. The silk domes are great. The only thing I might even try is bigger transformers for more power. I'm betting I can get as low as around 30 Hz response out of them which is perfect for all music aside from electronic. I have my sub for that lol, but yeah... Even given my situation, you still think I should go passive speakers?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13246339*
> Little problem. One of the silk domes blew out in my bx5a's, so why not use parts I already have and see if I can make the, better than the bx8a? Lol honestly, my biggest problem by far is learning how to make a crossover. I have no idea where to start.
> 
> By the way, I tried hooking up my bx5a amp to my advent prodigy II towers with a silk dome ghetto rigged into it with the stock 8 inch driver. It sounded a lot better than stock. This is why I'm even considering doing this. I don't have to make a crossover, that driver matches up with that enclosure well as a sealed box. The silk domes are great. The only thing I might even try is bigger transformers for more power. I'm betting I can get as low as around 30 Hz response out of them which is perfect for all music aside from electronic. I have my sub for that lol, but yeah... Even given my situation, you still think I should go passive speakers?


If you need help designing a crossover for the speakers I could help you with that. I think you would be better off going passive route. I will tell you my speakers are 5.25" ported and they have a fairly flat response and play low enough that I dot need a subwoofer in most of the songs.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;13246427*
> If you need help designing a crossover for the speakers I could help you with that. I think you would be better off going passive route. I will tell you my speakers are 5.25" ported and they have a fairly flat response and play low enough that I dot need a subwoofer in most of the songs.


The problem with ported designs for me is that my ears literally adapted to good sealed speakers, and now I can distinctively hear the air coming out of ported speakers. It's one reason I grew to hate my bx5a's. They sound like garbage to me now. I will not settle for a ported design.

If anything else, I'd get the same speaker setup that I listed. Can you help me design a crossover for that? That driver to my knowledge should match very well with that cabinet if it's sealed. The driver needs only a fraction of it's nominal 2.something cu ft ported perimeters. In think a 3 way xover is a bad idea for a first try though.

Correct me if I'm wrong on the cab driver matchup if it is indeed sealed. I will not allow for ported designs in anything, even subwoofers. My 5.7 cu ft sealed Velodyne ULD 18 converted me to sealed subs and made me hate all ported designs. $800 ported subs to me sound terrible and I can hear the air whooshing out of the port.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


The problem with ported designs for me is that my ears literally adapted to good sealed speakers, and now I can distinctively hear the air coming out of ported speakers. It's one reason I grew to hate my bx5a's. They sound like garbage to me now. I will not settle for a ported design.

If anything else, I'd get the same speaker setup that I listed. Can you help me design a crossover for that? That driver to my knowledge should match very well with that cabinet if it's sealed. The driver needs only a fraction of it's nominal 2.something cu ft ported perimeters. In think a 3 way xover is a bad idea for a first try though.

Correct me if I'm wrong on the cab driver matchup if it is indeed sealed. I will not allow for ported designs in anything, even subwoofers. My 5.7 cu ft sealed Velodyne ULD 18 converted me to sealed subs and made me hate all ported designs. $800 ported subs to me sound terrible and I can hear the air whooshing out of the port.


Then you're listening to the wrong ported speakers and subwoofers my friend.







A properly designed port won't give you any port noise. And a properly designed ported speaker or subwoofer will typically play lower, and reach the tune frequency much easier.


----------



## cyronn

Hi all,

Here's is what I currently have:

Technics SV-V6 Amplifier might be vintage now ?
Technics SB-4 Speakers
Eltax Monitor III Speakers

The amp sits on the other side of the room with the sb-4 speakers and is connected to my pc which is on the other side with the eltax speakers. I also took off all the covers for the speakers just for the picture.





edit: I forgot to say that I have seen some great setups here to


----------



## 95329

Im going to get a pair of these. Sorry, couldnt find english link. Gotta support local companies







Next tuesday or wednesday I will be picking them up and I've got a pair of mic stands coming from Thomann so I'll have my first hifi setup ready soon







The final setup will be spdif -> Beresford Caiman -> RCA/XLR -> Genelec 8020B. Waiting ever so anxiously









Edit: Pictures coming up next week and hopefully I could get into the club


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


The problem with ported designs for me is that my ears literally adapted to good sealed speakers, and now I can distinctively hear the air coming out of ported speakers. It's one reason I grew to hate my bx5a's. They sound like garbage to me now. I will not settle for a ported design.

If anything else, I'd get the same speaker setup that I listed. Can you help me design a crossover for that? That driver to my knowledge should match very well with that cabinet if it's sealed. The driver needs only a fraction of it's nominal 2.something cu ft ported perimeters. In think a 3 way xover is a bad idea for a first try though.

Correct me if I'm wrong on the cab driver matchup if it is indeed sealed. I will not allow for ported designs in anything, even subwoofers. My 5.7 cu ft sealed Velodyne ULD 18 converted me to sealed subs and made me hate all ported designs. $800 ported subs to me sound terrible and I can hear the air whooshing out of the port.


Well mine don't have the port wooshing sound that your talking about. heck there is hardly.any air movement unless you play them at 75% power or higher.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13252312*
> Then you're listening to the wrong ported speakers and subwoofers my friend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A properly designed port won't give you any port noise. And a properly designed ported speaker or subwoofer will typically play lower, and reach the tune frequency much easier.


What about the $500+ sub's I've heard like mackie, Boston acoustic, acoustic research, definitive technology, bowers and Wilkins, bang and olufson's, JBL, Polk audio, klipsch, and many others with ports in them? You're tellin me those were all badly designed?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13256444*
> What about the $500+ sub's I've heard like mackie, Boston acoustic, acoustic research, definitive technology, bowers and Wilkins, bang and olufson's, JBL, Polk audio, klipsch, and many others with ports in them? You're tellin me those were all badly designed?


If you're hearing port noise, then yes...they were badly designed, or poorly constructed.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13256504*
> If you're hearing port noise, then yes...they were badly designed, or poorly constructed.


So what happens when you match up speakers with a well built cabinet and you don't have a port? What exactly are you losing? I know for a fact, the enclosure will be a lot smaller that way. That lms ultra 5400 needs less than 2 cu ft sealed I found out not too log ago vs 8 cu ft ported.


----------



## darthspartan

The 18's i have are ported and there's no port noise. Same with my double 18's. Most PA 18's i see are ported.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthspartan;13256608*
> The 18's i have are ported and there's no port noise. Same with my double 18's. Most PA 18's i see are ported.


Sadly ive never heard a good PA speaker







mackies and yamaha's are garbage.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13256607*
> So what happens when you match up speakers with a well built cabinet and you don't have a port? What exactly are you losing? I know for a fact, the enclosure will be a lot smaller that way. That lms ultra 5400 needs less than 2 cu ft sealed I found out not too log ago vs 8 cu ft ported.


You will STARVE the LMS Ultra in 2 cuft. Sealed or not, doesn't matter.

The LMS Ultra is designed for ported enclosures, not sealed. You can throw any driver into any box, and it'll work. But you have to look at their specifications. That LMS Ultra will sound best in a large ported box, probably with a really low tune (I don't know for sure, Frankenrig is missing all of my tech sheets on subs).

And in order to have a good sounding ported box, you CANNOT play it too far away from the tuning frequency. Also, you have to design the port properly, so to reduce port velocity as much as possible.


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13256625*
> Sadly ive never heard a good PA speaker
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mackies and yamaha's are garbage.


Agreed there are some good yamaha's on the higher end mostly there wedge monitors. JBL is the winner in PA. At least for me there are some others EAW Nexeo. The gear i have is fairly good Middle of the road but meets all the artists riders we have run into.


----------



## pangolinman

I'll join.
Im using 2 Alesis M1 Active Mk2s.

Any recommendations for a sub?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangolinman;13256813*
> I'll join.
> Im using 2 Alesis M1 Active Mk2s.
> 
> Any recommendations for a sub?


Depends on your budget. This would likely be better served if you put this in your own thread though.







Or you could search the already suggested subs that others have asked for.


----------



## pangolinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13256837*
> Depends on your budget. This would likely be better served if you put this in your own thread though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you could search the already suggested subs that others have asked for.


Budget would be under $200.

Any thing good in that range, or should i keep saving?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangolinman;13257317*
> Budget would be under $200.
> 
> Any thing good in that range, or should i keep saving?


Assuming they actually go down to 45Hz, as they're spec'd to, then the Dayton SUB100 or SUB120 would be a solid choice under $200. Would depend on if you have the space for a 10" or 12".


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


You will STARVE the LMS Ultra in 2 cuft. Sealed or not, doesn't matter.

The LMS Ultra is designed for ported enclosures, not sealed. You can throw any driver into any box, and it'll work. But you have to look at their specifications. That LMS Ultra will sound best in a large ported box, probably with a really low tune (I don't know for sure, Frankenrig is missing all of my tech sheets on subs).

And in order to have a good sounding ported box, you CANNOT play it too far away from the tuning frequency. Also, you have to design the port properly, so to reduce port velocity as much as possible.


I'm just sayin, the sealed cu ft spec of that driver is a little under 2 cu ft. I'm not entirely sure if I wanna go ported or not when I get that driver, but in general, I like sealed better


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


I'm just sayin, the sealed cu ft spec of that driver is a little under 2 cu ft. I'm not entirely sure if I wanna go ported or not when I get that driver, but in general, I like sealed better










You should pay more attention to Qts and Vas, not their suggested enclosure sizes.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


You should pay more attention to Qts and Vas, not their suggested enclosure sizes.


I've seen a build on a DIY forum of a sealed lms 5400 in around 1.5 cu ft. It was around 115 db, I think 1000 watt dayton amp, pretty damn flat sounding. The guy said no audible distortion. That driver can push 135 db under 1% THD. Problem is I've never heard it myself, so don't know if it will even musically sound better than my Velodyne ULD 18, lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


I've seen a build on a DIY forum of a sealed lms 5400 in around 1.5 cu ft. It was around 115 db, I think 1000 watt dayton amp, pretty damn flat sounding. The guy said no audible distortion. That driver can push 135 db under 1% THD. Problem is I've never heard it myself, so don't know if it will even musically sound better than my Velodyne ULD 18, lol.


Corey, 1.5 cuft is too small for a 12" driver. That 18" driver might sound decent in such a small box, sure. But you're absolutely starving it. It wants a solid 5-6 cuft minimum ported to sound accurate.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


I've seen a build on a DIY forum of a sealed lms 5400 in around 1.5 cu ft. It was around 115 db, I think 1000 watt dayton amp, pretty damn flat sounding. The guy said no audible distortion. That driver can push 135 db under 1% THD. Problem is I've never heard it myself, so don't know if it will even musically sound better than my Velodyne ULD 18, lol.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Corey, 1.5 cuft is too small for a 12" driver. That 18" driver might sound decent in such a small box, sure. But you're absolutely starving it. It wants a solid 5-6 cuft minimum ported to sound accurate.


Yea, that wasn't my point. I'm sure someone has taken a sub that was designed for sealed enclosures and stuck it in a ported one. It may have even sounded good. That's not how you figure out what enclosure to build though. You look at the specs and go from there. Subs with a high q are meant for either a ported or huge enclosures (i.e. IB/OB). Opposite for low q. Vas helps you determine how big the enclosure should be.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Corey, 1.5 cuft is too small for a 12" driver. That 18" driver might sound decent in such a small box, sure. But you're absolutely starving it. It wants a solid 5-6 cuft minimum ported to sound accurate.


My 18" box is 5.7 cu ft. It's very well built, and sealed, Thames means I could just design a port for it lol?

I think there's more to enclosure design than cu ft well built and port design


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


My 18" box is 5.7 cu ft. It's very well built, and sealed, Thames means I could just design a port for it lol?

I think there's more to enclosure design than cu ft well built and port design


No, not really. The trick is, you need to have the correct size enclosure (in cuft), if porting...design the port correctly to the desired output. In order to figure these things out, you have to know the full technical specs of the driver you're using, plus the desired output.

It's not rocket science, its subwoofer building. It's really not that hard with the proper software, knowledge, and woodworking skills.









EDIT:
Oh, and that just proves my point. Your Velodyne 18" requires 5.7 cuft sealed. How can you POSSIBLY expect a bigger, better 18" subwoofer to work well in 1.5 cuft sealed? It just doesn't work that way.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


No, not really. The trick is, you need to have the correct size enclosure (in cuft), if porting...design the port correctly to the desired output. In order to figure these things out, you have to know the full technical specs of the driver you're using, plus the desired output.

It's not rocket science, its subwoofer building. It's really not that hard with the proper software, knowledge, and woodworking skills.









EDIT:
Oh, and that just proves my point. Your Velodyne 18" requires 5.7 cuft sealed. How can you POSSIBLY expect a bigger, better 18" subwoofer to work well in 1.5 cuft sealed? It just doesn't work that way.


I was going off of what parts express recommended a sealed enclosure for the driver, lol

Oh yeah. This is a horrible pic, but I set up an APC battery to my new MB quart RAA 4200 amp. My kenwood bookshelf I replaced a woofer with a Kevlar woofer is the right channel, my my Gallo nucleus is the left channel It's supposed to be 100 watts [email protected] 8 ohms with 0.5% THD. That's the specs on it at least. My iPad is hooked up via pandora radio to a 3.5pm cable ghetto rigged to 2 RCA cables to the amp powered by battery going to speakers lol.

I might actually get a cheap 500 watt PSU and use this amp for home audio lol. It sounds nicer than my bx5a's.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


*I was going off of what parts express recommended a sealed enclosure for the driver, lol*

-snip-


Dude, that's like allowing Newegg to recommend you a PSU for your computer. The retailers don't know jack about the actual products they carry. Partsexpress is a GREAT place to buy stuff. But they don't know the first thing about building a proper subwoofer box.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Dude, that's like allowing Newegg to recommend you a PSU for your computer. The retailers don't know jack about the actual products they carry. Partsexpress is a GREAT place to buy stuff. But they don't know the first thing about building a proper subwoofer box.


Good lol. I was actually really confused about that, lol. I know 8 cu ft is good ported for that driver.


----------



## gorb

Here are some proper builds with TC Sounds LMS drivers:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1266665
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1313021
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1314884


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


Here are some proper builds with TC Sounds LMS drivers:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1266665
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1313021
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1314884


Wow. Those are amazing. Is there really any need for that much power though? I'd like to run one off a dayton 1000 watt amp,lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


Wow. Those are amazing. Is there really any need for that much power though? I'd like to run one off a dayton 1000 watt amp,lol.


You won't even get that subwoofer to move with 1000w RMS. That sub wants 2000w RMS, and it'll handle 3kw easy...if not more.

If you REALLY wanted to set that sub up (I don't blame you, that sub is drool worthy to say the least), then you'll need at MINIMUM 2x 1000w Dayton amps, assuming they can put out 1000w RMS @ 2ohm each. You'd need one amp per coil minimum.


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13275626*
> You won't even get that subwoofer to move with 1000w RMS. That sub wants 2000w RMS, and it'll handle 3kw easy...if not more.
> 
> If you REALLY wanted to set that sub up (I don't blame you, that sub is drool worthy to say the least), then you'll need at MINIMUM 2x 1000w Dayton amps, assuming they can put out 1000w RMS @ 2ohm each. You'd need one amp per coil minimum.


Not necessarily when running subs in a house environment you'll notice it takes significantly less to make them loud, all of my subs run off of about 150 watts that is given to them via a sony receiver that runs flat for clarity, They all move quite a bit with way below their RMS.

The reason being there isn't as much built up pressure inside of the house it being a bigger area and what not therefor not dampening the cone as much so it has more movement capability with less power.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


Not necessarily when running subs in a house environment you'll notice it takes significantly less to make them loud, all of my subs run off of about 150 watts that is given to them via a sony receiver that runs flat for clarity, They all move quite a bit with way below their RMS.

The reason being there isn't as much built up pressure inside of the house it being a bigger area and what not therefor not dampening the cone as much so it has more movement capability with less power.


Hmm, how much better is the lms 18" than the 15"?


----------



## bobfig

what i dont get is why are you willing to buy a $700+ sub but not willing to build a pair of speakers the right way?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *coreyL*


Hmm, how much better is the lms 18" than the 15"?


There isn't a current model LMS Ultra 15".







Just the 18".

But honestly, the TC Sounds drivers are absolutely STUNNING. Even the 12" budget sub that takes 500w is a beast in its own rights, as it'll handily beat an Alpine Type R 12".

Honestly, you could buy just about any TC Sounds driver, and it'll be one heck of a subwoofer.


----------



## Darkapoc

COUGH I want there OEM 10's SOOOOOOOO BADDDDDDDD xD


----------



## gorb

TC Sounds is increasing the cost of their drivers effective May 1st...dunno how much they'll go up in price. Probably quite a bit, since neodymium has tripled or quadrupled in price.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


COUGH I want there OEM 10's SOOOOOOOO BADDDDDDDD xD


There was some OEM 12's on CACO a while back. I almost bought them instead of my i5 rig. I actually kind of regret it now.


----------



## LukeG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13275626*
> You won't even get that subwoofer to move with 1000w RMS. That sub wants 2000w RMS, and it'll handle 3kw easy...if not more.
> 
> If you REALLY wanted to set that sub up (I don't blame you, that sub is drool worthy to say the least), then you'll need at MINIMUM 2x 1000w Dayton amps, assuming they can put out 1000w RMS @ 2ohm each. You'd need one amp per coil minimum.


First of all, you will destroy your sub woofer, or at least half it life by putting different amps on each voice coil. Not to mention it will sound bad. Unless the amps are bridgeable of coarse.

Secondly, that sub woofer is rated at 89.7db. What makes you think you need 2000wrms to make it move? With 1000watts he will be getting 118db from the driver at 4 feet(This does not include gains or box calculations). He will be perfectly fine if he gets a quality amp, that puts out the rated power.

Another misguided power = volume person. Thats why I hate kids and there car audio.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LukeG;13298068*
> First of all, you will destroy your sub woofer, or at least half it life by putting different amps on each voice coil. Not to mention it will sound bad. Unless the amps are bridgeable of coarse.
> 
> Secondly, that sub woofer is rated at 89.7db. What makes you think you need 2000wrms to make it move? With 1000watts he will be getting 118db from the driver at 4 feet(This does not include gains or box calculations). He will be perfectly fine if he gets a quality amp, that puts out the rated power.
> 
> Another misguided power = volume person. Thats why I hate kids and there car audio.


You wouldn't destroy a subwoofer by using two amplifiers to power it. It's a DVC subwoofer. Assuming both amps were exactly the same, and you tuned them correctly using a scope and a meter, they'd be fine. And if he's got $1000 to dump into a driver alone, I think he can afford the proper tuning equipment too.

I never said 1000w wouldn't make it MOVE. But he'll be starving it for power with only 1000w, since the sub is rated for 2000w, and will EASILY take more.

And who said Power = Volume?


----------



## coreyL

Well, I'm not gunna get it real soon since I decided to drop $1100 on my Sony NEX5 EVIL Camera... But I decided a while ago that I will not invest in crappy audio, and it seems the LMS is the best price to performance ratio sub ever made


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13320298*
> Well, I'm not gunna get it real soon since I decided to drop $1100 on my Sony NEX5 EVIL Camera... But I decided a while ago that I will not invest in crappy audio, and it seems the LMS is the best price to performance ratio sub ever made


Well, why would you need 1000 watts of pure power when you don't have any decent speakers yet.


----------



## pioneerisloud

And why would you drop $900 on a subwoofer driver, and not PROPERLY power it?


----------



## 95329

So here's my Genelec setup. Would like to get into the club now please









View attachment 208324


Edit: Genelec 8020B being the exact model.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13330330*
> And why would you drop $900 on a subwoofer driver, and not PROPERLY power it?


Well, my house only supplies 1500 Watts of power besides the laundry room. Its legistically a bad ides to even push more than 1kw RMS out of a such when my computer pushes about 550 Watts gaming, with decent speakers is 100 Watts ems or so times 5, then in the summer, I have a window unit AC on, in the winter, a 900 Watt radiator... with 1kw in a sub, I'd kill my breaker every day I played dubstep.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FearSC549;13328101*
> Well, why would you need 1000 watts of pure power when you don't have any decent speakers yet.


Quality bass matters a lot to me, but I plan on doing a custom build for my speakers. What do you guys think about fiberglass enclosures vs MDF?

I guess ill get some new silk domes, then attempt to find a way to make my bx5a's battery powered and test fiberglass enclosure on that, it should be fun to get some sexy curves in the iPod dock, which will actually be USB, RCA, ad 3.5mm available, USB charging, computer cord lowered and self charging.

Basically, all I need to do is figure out how to make it battery powered and find a mini USB charging pre amp that works off iPod, phones, flash and external drives, has RCA, an auxiliary. The fiberglass will be cake.

A crossover will not be needed, and I will really make the plate amps. Can anyone help me with links to learn what I need to learn?

By the way, that custom build will be before what I plan to build later, when I learn more. Ill use my velodyne for a while until I can get better. I might use mg mbquarts car amp hooked up to speakers for a while too because my NAD T751 is dead now.

In anycase, why would I need more than 120db? My velodyne without the servo working at my friend's house party made pictures fall off his wall with clean, tight bass.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13349892*
> Well, my house only supplies 1500 Watts of power besides the laundry room. Its legistically a bad ides to even push more than 1kw RMS out of a such when my computer pushes about 550 Watts gaming, with decent speakers is 100 Watts ems or so times 5, then in the summer, I have a window unit AC on, in the winter, a 900 Watt radiator... with 1kw in a sub, I'd kill my breaker every day I played dubstep.
> 
> Quality bass matters a lot to me, but I plan on doing a custom build for my speakers. What do you guys think about fiberglass enclosures vs MDF?
> 
> I guess ill get some new silk domes, then attempt to find a way to make my bx5a's battery powered and test fiberglass enclosure on that, it should be fun to get some sexy curves in the iPod dock, which will actually be USB, RCA, ad 3.5mm available, USB charging, computer cord lowered and self charging.
> 
> Basically, all I need to do is figure out how to make it battery powered and find a mini USB charging pre amp that works off iPod, phones, flash and external drives, has RCA, an auxiliary. The fiberglass will be cake.
> 
> A crossover will not be needed, and I will really make the plate amps. Can anyone help me with links to learn what I need to learn?
> 
> By the way, that custom build will be before what I plan to build later, when I learn more. Ill use my velodyne for a while until I can get better. I might use mg mbquarts car amp hooked up to speakers for a while too because my NAD T751 is dead now.
> 
> In anycase, why would I need more than 120db? My velodyne without the servo working at my friend's house party made pictures fall off his wall with clean, tight bass.


MDF. Don't mess with fiberglass if you don't have to. The only reason to use it is for improved diffraction and even then you can shape MDF or use a waveguide or whatever. Really the least of your concerns at this point. Very small effect on the sound compared to say, driver selection or crossover design.

Why an ipod dock? Whats wrong with bringing speakers and an amp with you and plugging in the ipod?


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;13350101*
> MDF. Don't mess with fiberglass if you don't have to. The only reason to use it is for improved diffraction and even then you can shape MDF or use a waveguide or whatever. Really the least of your concerns at this point. Very small effect on the sound compared to say, driver selection or crossover design.
> 
> Why an ipod dock? Whats wrong with bringing speakers and an amp with you and plugging in the ipod?


Well, the bx5a are garbage anyway... even though they are garbage, they still sound better than a $500 iPod dock. I want personal satisfaction in my $180 being worth what I spent, plus, maybe apple will hire me if I come in with a custombuilt iPod dock that rapes their Bowers and Wilkins one. I do need a decent job lol.

As for fiberglass, I want to learn how to fabricate with fiberglass and carbonfibre anyway, why not start on small projects with dual purpose? So you're telling me that the mdf actually sounds better? Not to mention, fiberglass is stronger, thinner, lighter, and looks sexy with curves and a nice paint job. It would even be easy to make a resessed logo for my product.


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Hmm, I wonder what took me so long to post here.







Oh well. I'll just put the link in to save from embedding again.

http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards-computer-audio/988386-swans-awesome-large-pics.html


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13350169*
> Well, the bx5a are garbage anyway... even though they are garbage, they still sound better than a $500 iPod dock. I want personal satisfaction in my $180 being worth what I spent, plus, maybe apple will hire me if I come in with a custombuilt iPod dock that rapes their Bowers and Wilkins one. I do need a decent job lol.
> 
> As for fiberglass, I want to learn how to fabricate with fiberglass and carbonfibre anyway, why not start on small projects with dual purpose? So you're telling me that the mdf actually sounds better? Not to mention, fiberglass is stronger, thinner, lighter, and looks sexy with curves and a nice paint job. It would even be easy to make a resessed logo for my product.


It's apple. You walk in with some custom ghetto setup and they'll probably sue you for distracting customers and taking away potential sales







.
/sarcasm

If you want to use fiberglass, start a case mod or something. I haven't looked into it extensively but from what I can tell fiberglass is too light and it's resonant frequency is way too high. The same reason you don't want to use plastic. With something like mdf the resonant frequency is much lower than metal or plastic so it doesn't mess with the sound as much. Weight is usually good so the speakers stay in one spot and don't rattle around (over-exaggeration, but you get the point).

MDF is what you want to use







.


----------



## 95329

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;13358220*
> MDF is what you want to use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


This. Plus you could always cover the MDF with the fiberglass to get the sexy look you're looking for


----------



## coreyL

Ok. Thats good to know. I didn't know that fibreglass resonates badly. If that's the case, why do they make dub enclosures in cars out of it? I'm going with birch if fiberglass is a bad idea.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13366532*
> Ok. Thats good to know. I didn't know that fibreglass resonates badly. If that's the case, why do they make dub enclosures in cars out of it? I'm going with birch if fiberglass is a bad idea.


with fiberglass you cant have a flat spot or it is more likely to vibrate and cause resonance. with installs in cars it tends to be curved and irregular shaped to fit in locations where MDF enclosures wouldn't be able to fit and all those bends help stiffen the enclosure. in home environments its more economical to build box shape with big flat sides. going with birch still has a higher resonance frequency then MDF and you have the possibility of getting voids in the wood that would hinder the resonance. i still think you would be better off making good speakers first then get in to the sub. your priority's are all wrong. your starting to sound like one of those people that want duel 15" subs in your car and still use stock speakers.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13366532*
> Ok. Thats good to know. I didn't know that fibreglass resonates badly. If that's the case, why do they make dub enclosures in cars out of it? I'm going with birch if fiberglass is a bad idea.


Go with Birch. It's better than MDF.

And the ALL fiberglass car boxes are garbage. They sound like trash. They're only used for show cars.

The REAL fiberglass enclosures in a car, are actually MDF boxes, with fiberglass put over the top of it to make it round and "pretty".

It does work fine for smaller speakers though. But definitely not for a subwoofer.


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13366691*
> Go with Birch. It's better than MDF.
> 
> And the ALL fiberglass car boxes are garbage. They sound like trash. They're only used for show cars.
> 
> The REAL fiberglass enclosures in a car, are actually MDF boxes, with fiberglass put over the top of it to make it round and "pretty".
> 
> It does work fine for smaller speakers though. But definitely not for a subwoofer.


What if I made the back parts birch and the baffle out of curved fibreglass? Would it still resonate with 5 inch Kevlar woofers?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13368007*
> What if I made the back parts birch and the baffle out of curved fibreglass? Would it still resonate with 5 inch Kevlar woofers?


5" woofers, you probably won't be vibrating the enclosure that badly anyway. I'd say 1/2" or 3/4" MDF would be MORE than suitable enough. Fiberglass would probably be fine for the front baffle.

Only time you NEED birch is when using a very VERY large and powerful subwoofer really.


----------



## Stevinchy

Thinking about getting yamaha hs80m... thoughts?


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Very nice thread

Here goes mine custom made 3.1 one:

Stereo - 2x Tapco S-5 by Mackie
Center - 1x Tannoy + Berzeck Mono Amplifier
Sub - Active Sony SA-WP5000

All connected to Analog Auzentech Forte 7.1 Outputs


----------



## youra6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R;13429458*
> Very nice thread
> 
> Here goes mine custom made 3.1 one:
> 
> Stereo - 2x Tapco S-5 by Mackie
> Center - 1x Tannoy + Berzeck Mono Amplifier
> Sub - Active Sony SA-WP5000
> 
> All connected to Analog Auzentech Forte 7.1 Outputs


Nice looking setup!


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R;13429458*
> Very nice thread
> 
> Here goes mine custom made 3.1 one:
> 
> Stereo - 2x Tapco S-5 by Mackie
> Center - 1x Tannoy + Berzeck Mono Amplifier
> Sub - Active Sony SA-WP5000
> 
> All connected to Analog Auzentech Forte 7.1 Outputs


YOUR MOUSE SUCKS Just kidding I have the same, honestly a gorgeous setup(is jealous)


----------



## coreyL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;13431578*
> YOUR MOUSE SUCKS Just kidding I have the same, honestly a gorgeous setup(is jealous)


Honestly, I think he should throw away the sony sub and get a decent dayton sub









what the hell is that center? is it the budget HTIB lookin thing on top his monitor?


----------



## Cabbs

JBL Control 5 Plus speakers
JBL PB10 subwoofer
Sony STR-DE935 receiver (I need to replace this thing)


----------



## Xyro TR1

^ Those woofer drivers look identical to my D38s.


----------



## skwannabe

What can I use to level my speakers to my ear level? I would like them around 4" to 5" inches higher.

Thanks


----------



## Iceman23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skwannabe;13549436*
> What can I use to level my speakers to my ear level? I would like them around 4" to 5" inches higher.
> 
> Thanks


How/where are they placed currently?


----------



## skwannabe

They're placed on my desk.


----------



## Iceman23

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/MoPAD/

Use these in combination with any hard material under it to reach the desired height. Or really any solid object with rubber pads or foam dampening material where the speaker makes contact.


----------



## gorb

There are plenty of relatively inexpensive and short speaker stands available. Alternatively you could look into buying auralex mopads or speakerdudes to set your speakers on and have them angled up towards you.


----------



## drjoey1500

Phonebooks lol.


----------



## raidmaxGuy

I put my name up a few months ago and im not on the list yet

2x Design Acoustics PS-55 w/ Kenwood KFC-T101 tweeters custom installed


----------



## coreyL

So, can anyone help me out here? Is there a way to delete my active crossover in my garbage bx5a studio monitors? I plan oturning the amp chips into the amplification for the iPod sound dock I wanna build that can recognize USB devices like smartphones, iPods, and charge them. I wanna use my gallo nucleus drivers for the drivers and have it look elegant that way. If I can't delete the crossover, I'll go with gallo and too mounted cool looking tweeters.

No for the other part, an pac battery won't power my studio monitor but the original transformer will which is rated at 16v and 5 amps. 12v up to 50 amps won't power this device??? A 1200 watt corsair pus wouldn't power it, my xbox pus wouldn't power it, my logitech x540 transformer wouldn't work either, which has around the same exact power. Only the bx5a transformer works, and all of the other ones power my car amps and my logitech x540. I need help here. Also, how would I hook up a charging system to charge this on the fly as well as charge the battery? I'm thinking just find the right transformer capable of powering both studio monitors and making an ac adapter out of that, then hooking it up to the li-ion battery and the audio pre amp USB charge capable with iPod docking which my iPad will dock into. It needs to be capable of charging my iPad, on the fly... So basically, I need to find a pre amp with USB capable of charging my iPad and split the USB to make a female in the back of the device to hook up a phone or flash drive when tqhe iPod dock isn't in use.

This will serve as a prototype model for my car iPad head unit as well as serve for a bomb ass iPod REAL audiophiles quality iPod dock. Galo nucleus might not have the best bass, but it has a damn good sound to it, plus I was thinking of sneaking a light 8-10 inch woofer in the enclosure somewhere with bomb ass bass to make a small concealed sub, people will actuAlly think the gallo's are pumping that, making it even more awesome!

No idea how to go about this project, but I WILL make the gallo's detachable so that banana plugs will basically make them work. I'll make custom covers for compact use, and for detached use, I'll make custom detachable small stands that double as feet for the dock when in compact mode


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13823504*
> So, can anyone help me out here? Is there a way to delete my active crossover in my garbage bx5a studio monitors? I plan oturning the amp chips into the amplification for the iPod sound dock I wanna build that can recognize USB devices like smartphones, iPods, and charge them. I wanna use my gallo nucleus drivers for the drivers and have it look elegant that way. If I can't delete the crossover, I'll go with gallo and too mounted cool looking tweeters.
> 
> No for the other part, an pac battery won't power my studio monitor but the original transformer will which is rated at 16v and 5 amps. 12v up to 50 amps won't power this device??? A 1200 watt corsair pus wouldn't power it, my xbox pus wouldn't power it, my logitech x540 transformer wouldn't work either, which has around the same exact power. Only the bx5a transformer works, and all of the other ones power my car amps and my logitech x540. I need help here. Also, how would I hook up a charging system to charge this on the fly as well as charge the battery? I'm thinking just find the right transformer capable of powering both studio monitors and making an ac adapter out of that, then hooking it up to the li-ion battery and the audio pre amp USB charge capable with iPod docking which my iPad will dock into. It needs to be capable of charging my iPad, on the fly... So basically, I need to find a pre amp with USB capable of charging my iPad and split the USB to make a female in the back of the device to hook up a phone or flash drive when tqhe iPod dock isn't in use.
> 
> This will serve as a prototype model for my car iPad head unit as well as serve for a bomb ass iPod REAL audiophiles quality iPod dock. Galo nucleus might not have the best bass, but it has a damn good sound to it, plus I was thinking of sneaking a light 8-10 inch woofer in the enclosure somewhere with bomb ass bass to make a small concealed sub, people will actuAlly think the gallo's are pumping that, making it even more awesome!
> 
> No idea how to go about this project, but I WILL make the gallo's detachable so that banana plugs will basically make them work. I'll make custom covers for compact use, and for detached use, I'll make custom detachable small stands that double as feet for the dock when in compact mode


It's not just about power. The bx5a transformer probably was AC.

If the xovers are built into the amp you probably can't separate them. At least easily.

Get or better yet build an amp to power it. That way you can choose an amp with an input voltage of your choice. That would make it simple to connect to a battery (12vdc or something). If you really are interested in speaker building it would be good experience.


----------



## coreyL

Wait, I thought you can't have ac transformers. I really don't know how a transformer works, but to my best guess, the ac current goes into two coils which turn them into electromagnets. The laws of magnetism state that a magnetic field moving through metal or wire will induce a current, or a current moving hrough the wire will induce a magnetic field. This property is used to make transformers work. The ac current goes in and since ac current is all over the place unlike direct current, it basically switches from coil to coil constantly, which moves the magnetic field, thus moving the current on the other side of the wire, converted to direct current. The core in the middle should be as magnetically conductive as possible, I think. The more magnetically conductive the core is, the better efficiency the transformer is. This is just my guess as to how they work. I guessed this by ripping apart a transformer when I was a kid, and asked my step grand pa if I was right in how they worked and he said pretty much


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13831304*
> Wait, I thought you can't have ac transformers. I really don't know how a transformer works, but to my best guess, the ac current goes into two coils which turn them into electromagnets. The laws of magnetism state that a magnetic field moving through metal or wire will induce a current, or a current moving hrough the wire will induce a magnetic field. This property is used to make transformers work. The ac current goes in and since ac current is all over the place unlike direct current, it basically switches from coil to coil constantly, which moves the magnetic field, thus moving the current on the other side of the wire, converted to direct current. The core in the middle should be as magnetically conductive as possible, I think. The more magnetically conductive the core is, the better efficiency the transformer is. This is just my guess as to how they work. I guessed this by ripping apart a transformer when I was a kid, and asked my step grand pa if I was right in how they worked and he said pretty much


Transformers can convert ac to ac. If you think about it, the current the first coil is inducing is always changing, so the current in the second coil also has to change. Basically AC transformers just change voltage, frequency, or both. Those are the ones you see on power poles. They step down the very high voltage that comes from the power plant to the 120v wall socket.

I'd link the wikipedia page, but tbh it isn't all that clear. The first part is pretty good but you may already know that much. It's worth reading to find out how they work. If you have an old physics book lying around it probably explains it too.


----------



## coreyL

Crap. An ac amp is worthless, isn't it?

Do they even have dc to ac adapters?

Edit: I meant an inverter without changing voltage. It seems I have to have a power inverter making the 12v dc from my battery to 120v ac then an ac to ac power transformer making the 120v ac to 12v ac which is completely arbitrary because I'll lose so much power from efficiency that it won't even be worth it anyway. I need to throw away my garbage bx5a, or get another working pair of ac to ac adapters and build new studio monitors for the he'll of it. O.5% thd from those amps ain't bad, and I could easily build 8 inch studio monitors, no xover needed. But it pisses me off that apparently it's an ac current. When I get home, I'm borrowing my friends multimeter and ripping apart my other bx5a, ripping out the transformer and seeing if it's actually ac and not dc. Wo makes a speaker amp run off ac? That's beyond stupid.

Since I can use my bx5a amps, what's around a 50 watt or less true audiophile amp which can be powered by a battery?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coreyL;13831807*
> Crap. An ac amp is worthless, isn't it?
> 
> Do they even have dc to ac adapters?
> 
> Edit: I meant an inverter without changing voltage. It seems I have to have a power inverter making the 12v dc from my battery to 120v ac then an ac to ac power transformer making the 120v ac to 12v ac which is completely arbitrary because I'll lose so much power from efficiency that it won't even be worth it anyway. I need to throw away my garbage bx5a, or get another working pair of ac to ac adapters and build new studio monitors for the he'll of it. O.5% thd from those amps ain't bad, and I could easily build 8 inch studio monitors, no xover needed. But it pisses me off that apparently it's an ac current. When I get home, I'm borrowing my friends multimeter and ripping apart my other bx5a, ripping out the transformer and seeing if it's actually ac and not dc. Wo makes a speaker amp run off ac? That's beyond stupid.
> 
> Since I can use my bx5a amps, what's around a 50 watt or less true audiophile amp which can be powered by a battery?


I'm not saying it's for sure ac, just maybe it is.

It's not stupid at all. Who says DC is better? In fact IIRC the dc output of a transformer isn't that good. I could be wrong on that though.

Like I said, I'd suggest building one if you want experience. Or you could use a car amp or something.


----------



## soloz2

For anyone local to Western NY I will be selling my excellent condition Ariston Audio RD 11 Model E turn table. I do not want to ship and am willing to give someone a good deal. I will not be posting in the regular FS forums just because I want to sell locally. Let me know if you're interested.


----------



## gorb

You can always mark it LOCAL ONLY/WESTERN NY in your thread title if you post it on the FS forum.


----------



## moonmanas

Acoustic Energy.. (((AE))) Evo Center, (((AE))) EVO Floorstanders, (((AE))) Evo 1 rears, (((AE))) Aesprit 300 Highs, Monitor Audio RSW12 Sub, Onkyo 607 Amp


----------



## gorb

Looks good. I like the flooring









Energy RC-50, RC-LCR, CB-5, Outlaw Audio LFM-1 EX, and Yamaha RX-V667:

















I really need to get a new tv stand that has a mount for the display so I can get my center channel up one more shelf.

Still the same old computer setup - Energy RC-10, Orb Audio Super Eight, and Yamaha RX-V795:


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;13854250*
> Looks good. I like the flooring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Energy RC-50, RC-LCR, CB-5, Outlaw Audio LFM-1 EX, and Yamaha RX-V667:
> ...
> I really need to get a new tv stand that has a mount for the display so I can get my center channel up one more shelf.
> 
> Still the same old computer setup - Energy RC-10, Orb Audio Super Eight, and Yamaha RX-V795:
> ...


Moved the speakers a bit I see







. I must be obsessed







. Anyway I can rest happily now.

Is that a new sub?


----------



## gorb

Yep. I did move the speakers out (only to make you happy) and toed them in a bit. I have like 1cm of clearance for the left speaker and my closet door









The sub I've had for less than a week I think.


----------



## darthspartan

Hello everyone just wanted to show off my new improvements. I really needed to do this but money has been tight got the fabric on sale its a nice silk like fabric.
OLD









NEW


----------



## IWinFlips

Bose Companion 3 Series II <3


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IWinFlips*


Bose Companion 3 Series II <3


Bose are not worth the price.


----------



## ACM

Just bought for new 2.1 system.

Denon AVR-391
Polk Audio PSW10
Polk Audio Monitor 30


----------



## Techboy10

My M-Audio BX5a Deluxe's should be getting delivered today







As long as my roommate is there to sign for them haha.

Can't wait!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Can't wait to take pictures of my new setups.









Living Room:
Pioneer CS-405 Towers

Computer:
Dayton B652's

Bedroom:
Jensen Bookshelfs (for now)

Next up to buy is subwoofers for all, and proper bookshelfs for the bedroom. Then adding in the surround speakers.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;13980533*
> Can't wait to take pictures of my new setups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Living Room:
> Pioneer CS-405 Towers
> 
> Computer:
> Dayton B652's
> 
> Bedroom:
> Jensen Bookshelfs (for now)
> 
> Next up to buy is subwoofers for all, and proper bookshelfs for the bedroom. Then adding in the surround speakers.


What happened? You got kicked out of the garage???


----------



## Volvo

Living room.
That's new.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


What happened? You got kicked out of the garage???











Quote:



Originally Posted by *Volvo*


Living room.
That's new.


Oh you.....









The Dayton B652's and DTA-100a amplifier both arrived today!!









I'll get some pictures after I set things up. Initial tests are







What have I been missing with soft dome tweeters???!!!! I love these cheapo $30 speakers. I guess to be fair, since they're Dayton...it'd be more like $100-150 from a mainstream brand huh?

Just trying to figure out where I'm going to set my monitors at with these large bookshelfs on the desk. And I gotta ditch all these boxes that have arrived the past few days.

Expect pictures from me tomorrow or the day after.


----------



## Shane1244

I've got this in my bedroom:
Technics SA-DX750 | Cerwin Vega LS10 x2 | Klipsch C20 | Klipsch B20 x2 | Klipsch SUB12


----------



## pioneerisloud

Okay, I couldn't wait.









*New Living Room setup (as seen in these pictures):*
Yamaha 467 5.1 Receiver (arriving tomorrow)
Pioneer CS-405 Towers (12" woofers, 5.25" midrange, 4" horn tweeter)
Samsung 50" Plasma 3D 1080p
Adding later: BIC Formula F12 Subwoofer, Polk CS1, Polk Monitor 30's

*Computer Speakers (will be moved to new location later today):*
Dayton DTA-100a 100w RMS amplifier (50w RMS x2 @ 8ohm)
Dayton B652 Bookshelfs
Sig Rig Obviously
Adding later: Dayton SUB80
*
Pictures: (Everything is all kind of jumbled together from testing, and please ignore the mess....still picking up new boxes that just KEEP COMING!!!)*

Comparison of the Dayton bookshelf to the Pioneer tower









Dayton Bookshelf (B652) up close and naked:









Same thing, but clothed.









Dayton DTA-100a amplifier (works as a headphone amp too, and cuts off the speakers when cans are plugged in!!!):









What that entire wall looks like currently (again, still unpacking, setting up, and cleaning):


----------



## Iceman23

Pictures appear to broken


----------



## pangolinman

Ill join!
I have a pair of Alesis M1 active MKii speakers.

[ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FAlesis-Active-MkII-6-5-Monitor%2Fdp%2FB003Y57VAA]http://www.amazon.com/Alesis-Active-MkII-6-5-Monitor/dp/B003Y57VAA"][These[/URL] guys][/ame]

Anyone have any experience with them?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman23;14036535*
> Pictures appear to broken


Third time's the charm for me apparently...F5, they're all there and working now. Been up all night messing with the Media Center boxes for the TV's, and still no luck on it yet.


----------



## Iceman23

Pictures look fine now









How are Dayton subs for music? I'm looking for a cheap option to go with my bookshelves.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman23;14036683*
> Pictures look fine now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are Dayton subs for music? I'm looking for a cheap option to go with my bookshelves.


For the price, they can't be beaten. They're a SQ sub, so they don't get really loud, but they sound really clean.


----------



## Iceman23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14036697*
> For the price, they can't be beaten. They're a SQ sub, so they don't get really loud, but they sound really clean.


That's what I'm after, loudness is not a big issue. Which size would you recommend? I'm not trying to fill a big room so adequate pressurization shouldn't be an issue - however, if there's a big increase in quality/response going from the 8-10-12, I don't want to miss it (especially at prices I'm seeing).


----------



## TheChillburger

Using some Klipsch Promedia 2.1's currently.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman23;14036776*
> That's what I'm after, loudness is not a big issue. Which size would you recommend? I'm not trying to fill a big room so adequate pressurization shouldn't be an issue - however, if there's a big increase in quality/response going from the 8-10-12, I don't want to miss it (especially at prices I'm seeing).


Depends on the speakers you plan to run with it. Find your lowest frequency that your speakers pick up well enough, and you'd want to pick a sub to match that.

An 8" sub will usually pick up to around 80-100Hz. A 10" will reach to 60-80Hz or so, and a 12" will reach up to 40-60Hz. At least with the Daytons. (Please note, I am referring to the highest point the subwoofer should be reaching...not the lowest point).

The reason why, is because a subwoofer is only designed (by nature) to reproduce at most 1.5 octaves (one octave = double the frequency). So by looking at the lowest notes the Dayton subs hit, is how I've come up with the above figures.


----------



## Iceman23

Here's the freq. response graph:










Looks like they cut off sharply around 50Hz-60Hz. Probably will look into the 10' then. Thanks for the tips!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman23;14036924*
> Here's the freq. response graph:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like they cut off sharply around 50Hz-60Hz. Probably will look into the 10' then. Thanks for the tips!


Judging by that graph, you'd probably do fine with the 12", but there might be a very small gap in the frequency range (just a few dB likely). Obviously, that's assuming everything's perfect, and your room reflects the sound waves perfectly according to the speaker's specs. You can also count the rolloff of the crossover slightly as well. If you set the low pass on the sub to ~60Hz, you'll still hit 70Hz with it, it just won't be as loud.


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14036825*
> Depends on the speakers you plan to run with it. Find your lowest frequency that your speakers pick up well enough, and you'd want to pick a sub to match that.
> 
> An 8" sub will usually pick up to around 80-100Hz. A 10" will reach to 60-80Hz or so, and a 12" will reach up to 40-60Hz. At least with the Daytons. (Please note, I am referring to the highest point the subwoofer should be reaching...not the lowest point).
> 
> The reason why, is because a subwoofer is only designed (by nature) to reproduce at most 1.5 octaves (one octave = double the frequency). So by looking at the lowest notes the Dayton subs hit, is how I've come up with the above figures.












a good subwoofer will be capable of far more than just 1.5 octaves...here are some outdoor GP measurements of assorted subwoofers:

original seaton submersive:









diy re audio xxx:









svs pb-13 ultra (20hz tune):









hsu vtf3.3:


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;14037963*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a good subwoofer will be capable of far more than just 1.5 octaves...here are some outdoor GP measurements of assorted subwoofers:
> 
> -snip-


Cleanly and accurately? No. I would love to see an RE XXX do 20Hz to 100Hz cleanly and as accurately as that graph represents.


----------



## Shane1244

I have the chance to get two Klipsch Reference IV 3-Way Tower Speaker (RF82) speakers for $500 brand new... Should I go for it?


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14037992*
> Cleanly and accurately? No. I would love to see an RE XXX do 20Hz to 100Hz cleanly and as accurately as that graph represents.


yes, cleanly and accurately. check the owners threads or diy threads on avsforum or wherever, or additional measurements and tests at data-bass.com

of course, many people cross their subs over fairly low and/or use multi-sub setups with different crossover points because they have the appropriate gear, but not everybody configures their stuff the same way. warpdrv for example has 3 dual-opposed lms-5400 ultra subs and he's got them crossed over at 120hz, and they definitely hit below 20hz.


----------



## Iceman23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;14038781*
> yes, cleanly and accurately. check the owners threads or diy threads on avsforum or wherever, or additional measurements and tests at data-bass.com
> 
> of course, many people cross their subs over fairly low and/or use multi-sub setups with different crossover points because they have the appropriate gear, but not everybody configures their stuff the same way. warpdrv for example has 3 dual-opposed lms-5400 ultra subs and he's got them crossed over at 120hz, and they definitely hit below 20hz.


But how much do those cost though? I would assume you'd be paying an arm and a leg to get that type of performance.


----------



## gorb

Yeah, the ones I posted were all expensive except the HSU.

Here's a GP measurement of an emotiva ultra 12 which is decently cheap at $429 shipped (on sale):









Unfortunately nobody bothers to measure the super cheap but nice entry level stuff like the daytons and the like. I know Ricci from data-bass has measured a BIC and and Acoustech (or maybe two BICs), but he doesn't have the data on the website yet.


----------



## Iceman23

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;14039228*
> Unfortunately nobody bothers to measure the super cheap but nice entry level stuff like the daytons and the like. I know Ricci from data-bass has measured a BIC and and Acoustech (or maybe two BICs), but he doesn't have the data on the website yet.


That's quite a shame - seems to be quite hard to compare any of the options then







. Even if there was a place to audition subs I would assume the differences in room size/acoustics (to my own room), however miniscule, would render any test nearly pointless. I was also looking at the BIC-F12 at $200 - let me know if that website does end up posting some relevant data.


----------



## drjoey1500

pioneerisloud...

Just to clarify, how are the dayton bookshelves? I know you said good, but compared to what? And how is the bass? (extension/distortion?)

The reason I ask is one of my friends is looking for cheap speakers like that.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


pioneerisloud...

Just to clarify, how are the dayton bookshelves? I know you said good, but compared to what? And how is the bass? (extension/distortion?)

The reason I ask is one of my friends is looking for cheap speakers like that.


I really enjoy them. They sound very neutral to me personally (I'm used to the extremely bright and bass heavy towers I have though). The tweeter is pleasant on my ears, they sound like they have decent extension in the high range (my hearing is damaged on the high end so I honestly cannot test that). And they do not require an EQ at all for my liking.

And I'm comparing them to my older towers (which I do love to death), and Polk Monitor 30's. The bass is meh (I'm a basshead though). It's there, but it only extends down to about 70-80Hz. They're a sealed speaker, so they won't extend terribly low, but they're very accurate. Down to roughly 100-80Hz or so, they're EXTREMELY accurate. Below that, they need a subwoofer...definitely (which I plan on adding a Dayton SUB100 or 120 I think).

And to be perfectly honest, for $30 you can't turn them down. They compete with everything I can get locally (basically Best Buy, and one store that carries some Infinity and Bose stuff). Pair them with a subwoofer for some lower bass response...and they'd be absolutely perfect. My only real complaint is the lack of bass...but again, a subwoofer would fix that immediately.

And they definitely take the full 40w RMS they're rated for and then some. I've cranked them up almost full blast on my DTA-100a amplifier (50w RMS), and they took it like a champ....and it was louder than I have EVER played my towers at.


----------



## Shane1244

Where is a good place to buy Dayton stuff?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shane1244*


Where is a good place to buy Dayton stuff?


Partsexpress.com. I think that's about the only place you can buy them, as its PE's house brand. Not a bad thing by any means mind you.







PE and Dayton are the OEM's for other big brand names (at least that's what I read).


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


I really enjoy them. They sound very neutral to me personally (I'm used to the extremely bright and bass heavy towers I have though). The tweeter is pleasant on my ears, they sound like they have decent extension in the high range (my hearing is damaged on the high end so I honestly cannot test that). And they do not require an EQ at all for my liking.

And I'm comparing them to my older towers (which I do love to death), and Polk Monitor 30's. The bass is meh (I'm a basshead though). It's there, but it only extends down to about 70-80Hz. They're a sealed speaker, so they won't extend terribly low, but they're very accurate. Down to roughly 100-80Hz or so, they're EXTREMELY accurate. Below that, they need a subwoofer...definitely (which I plan on adding a Dayton SUB100 or 120 I think).

And to be perfectly honest, for $30 you can't turn them down. They compete with everything I can get locally (basically Best Buy, and one store that carries some Infinity and Bose stuff). Pair them with a subwoofer for some lower bass response...and they'd be absolutely perfect. My only real complaint is the lack of bass...but again, a subwoofer would fix that immediately.

And they definitely take the full 40w RMS they're rated for and then some. I've cranked them up almost full blast on my DTA-100a amplifier (50w RMS), and they took it like a champ....and it was louder than I have EVER played my towers at.


+ virtual rep







.

Thanks I'll probably suggest them to my friend then.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Here's how my desk looks as of right now. It'll stay this way for a while until I get new monitors, and a new desk (definitely need both).


----------



## gorb

nothing wrong with that desk


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


nothing wrong with that desk










Not big enough for my planned monitor setup.







And because its just plastic, the speakers reverb on the desk pretty badly.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Here's how my desk looks as of right now. It'll stay this way for a while until I get new monitors, and a new desk (definitely need both).











Ah that's a relief just looking at that pic. The concept of you not being in the garage was troubling to say the least. The folding table and broken plastic chair easily make up for that though








.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Why does everybody make fun of the chair???









I'm leaving. I'm gonna go buy a new chair RIGHT NOW.

Be back with pictures....


----------



## gorb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Not big enough for my planned monitor setup.







And because its just plastic, the speakers reverb on the desk pretty badly.


http://www.thefoamfactory.com/acoust...cessories.html


----------



## pioneerisloud

New chair. Now nobody can complain about my ghetto chair (its now outside as a smoking chair.







)


----------



## Shredicus

LOL I LOVE your setup pioneer XD


----------



## drjoey1500

LOL seriously? I thought you were joking about getting a chair...

Anyway, nice chair







. I bet it feels a lot better.

You just lost a bunch of points for ghetto mods though. Broken plastic chair with a pillow is pretty epic







.


----------



## Spooony

1 Crown CE-4000 (4000 Watts)

1 Crown CE-2000 (2000 Watt's)

2 JBL SR4719X's (1,200 WRMS Each)

4 JBL SF25's (500 WRMS Each)


































Set 2


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14052945*
> New chair. Now nobody can complain about my ghetto chair (its now outside as a smoking chair.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I like your speakers.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FearSC549;14068337*
> I like your speakers.


I like them too.







Saving for a SUB120 to pair with them now, and a sound card.


----------



## Xeroni

This thread needs more Daytons.










That's a SUB-100 btw.


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;14052745*
> http://www.thefoamfactory.com/acousticfoam/accessories.html


Holy crap that's cheap compared to the Auralex Mopar $40 stuff.

Nice find, thanks!

Gonna get a pic of my Dayton with my DIY speaker stands.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I honestly have to say, for the $30 I paid on these bad boys, I honestly don't think they can be beaten. The Dayton DTA-100a mini amp is amazing too (as is parts express's RMA procedure).







My amp came half dead on arrival (only right channel works). PE is sending me a replacement, at no cost to me, and when it comes in...I get a shipping label to send the old one back.









And yeah I saw your setup Xeroni.







I love it. I'm still planning on the SUB120 though....I need more low end than 30Hz.

EDIT:
And don't forget, I am still rockin' my old school Pioneer CS-405 towers. <3 I love them to death, but they're being retired for home theater use behind me on the 50" Plasma.


----------



## FearSC549




----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FearSC549;14068399*
> Holy crap that's cheap compared to the Auralex Mopar $40 stuff.
> 
> Nice find, thanks!
> 
> Gonna get a pic of my Dayton with my DIY speaker stands.


You're welcome. I haven't compared them to the mopads (since I've not purchased from the foam factory yet) but I will. Very cheap prices. If it's not quite as dense or absorbent as the auralex foam that's okay, since it's only 1/4 the price.

Your speaker stands look pretty good. That tv looks really high though.


----------



## jarble

micro update to post 2097 sorry guys Ive not even turned my main pc on in weeks I have pmed some of our mods to see if we can work something out till my boss eases up a bit


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;14069212*
> You're welcome. I haven't compared them to the mopads (since I've not purchased from the foam factory yet) but I will. Very cheap prices. If it's not quite as dense or absorbent as the auralex foam that's okay, since it's only 1/4 the price.
> 
> Your speaker stands look pretty good. That tv looks really high though.


Made the speaker stands out of some cheap 2x4 and 3/4" ply.

That place used to be a fireplace and the only place to mount that TV is above the fireplace


----------



## DEEBS808

Hey guys just wondering what would be the best speaker to get in the $300-400 range.I didn't want to read all 200+ pages.Thanks Hope some one can help.


----------



## spice003

newegg has energy cf-70 for $250 each, i think i might pick 'em up


----------



## Spooony

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DEEBS808*


Hey guys just wondering what would be the best speaker to get in the $300-400 range.I didn't want to read all 200+ pages.Thanks Hope some one can help.


for what setup? 2.1? 5.1? connected to pc? amp? etc etc


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Spooony*


for what setup? 2.1? 5.1? connected to pc? amp? etc etc


It will be hooked up to my new Pc that I am building.Maybe some 5.1 I think lol.Yeah something that goes booom booom hahaha.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I just realized I should share these video's here!







I was asked in a thread if my Dayton DTA-100a amplifier would push tower speakers. This got me thinking. I have tower speakers....I have the amp......why not test it!!!??









Note: My Dayton B652's are NOT hooked up in the video, as the amp is only rated for down to a 6ohm load. I didn't want to push my luck too hard. The towers are normally on the opposite wall on my home theater setup...but I just had to test the amp out.







I'd do the same with the bookshelfs...but honestly they don't really move that much. Wouldn't be worth the upload.

Here's my floor towers being pushed HARD by the little Dayton amp. I know when I turn the volume up, it doesn't sound like its going up on the video...but trust me, it is. The camera just auto adjusts the volume.

Also, it apparently has a lower framerate than I'm used to for speaker video's. The woofer's surround is folding on the low notes (I'm nearly bottoming the speakers out from power). They are being pushed to the MAX by this little tiny amp. As hard or harder than my 135w RMS receiver does (granted with less on the volume control on the receiver, but still).

*Videos (click to see, they're on my photobucket):*
Young Jeezy - Put On


Bassotronics - Bass, I Love You


----------



## Spooony

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14121366*
> It will be hooked up to my new Pc that I am building.Maybe some 5.1 I think lol.Yeah something that goes booom booom hahaha.


get 2 of these
Yamaha NS-B210
Dayton SUB-120 12"

or this
Mr DJ PBS-1605AMP 12" Amplified DJ Subwoofer 1600 Watt


----------



## DEEBS808

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spooony;14148435*
> get 2 of these
> Yamaha NS-B210
> Dayton SUB-120 12"
> 
> or this
> Mr DJ PBS-1605AMP 12" Amplified DJ Subwoofer 1600 Watt


Thanks Spoooony.+rep for that


----------



## Spooony

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DEEBS808;14148488*
> Thanks Spoooony.+rep for that


oi im just joking about the last one lol dont think you want that huge thing gathering roaches


----------



## gorb

they will probably give him the boom boom boom that he wants though lol


----------



## theCanadian

Ditching my Pioneer VSX-516 for a Pioneer SX-6.

Sold the 516 for $100 and bought the SX-6 for $50 shipped. Putting money in my pocket and upgrading sound components simultaneously. What is this? I don't even...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *theCanadian*


Ditching my Pioneer VSX-516 for a Pioneer SX-6.

Sold the 516 for $100 and bought the SX-6 for $50 shipped. Putting money in my pocket and upgrading sound components simultaneously. What is this? I don't even...


Awesome receiver man, can't wait to see some pics.







Too bad it wasn't an SX-60 though.


----------



## hertz9753

Do I have to post pictures to join the club?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hertz9753*


Do I have to post pictures to join the club?


Not at all but it's great to see everyones setup if possible


----------



## Dylanlip

Technical Pro MRS43U.

Pretty decent station monitors for the price. Planning on upgrading them to Alesis once I expand my living space.


----------



## Smallville

Any recommendations for a 2.0/2.1 setup for a desktop at ~$150 shipped or less? I'll be running it out of a Nuforce uDac-2(has L/R inputs and Coax). I currently have a pair of Logitech Z-2300 hooked up to my TV, and they're alright but I can see much room for improvement. I have been thinking about the M-Audio AV40s/Swan M10 because of the great reviews, but I don't know much about speakers.


----------



## gorb

save your money and get something better


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smallville*


Any recommendations for a 2.0/2.1 setup for a desktop at ~$150 shipped or less? I'll be running it out of a Nuforce uDac-2(has L/R inputs and Coax). I currently have a pair of Logitech Z-2300 hooked up to my TV, and they're alright but I can see much room for improvement. I have been thinking about the M-Audio AV40s/Swan M10 because of the great reviews, but I don't know much about speakers.


I've been really enjoying my setup a lot. It does lack in bass output though without a subwoofer (which raises the cost at least another $100). I'm running a Dayton DTA-100a mini amp with Dayton B652 bookshelfs. Total setup was $130. Add a nice sub for $100-160 or so (the Dayton line comes to mind), and its a great little cheaper setup.


----------



## theCanadian

Well, this SX-6 is as solid as I remember. If anyone is in the market, I'd say it'd be a good one to pick up. It's got stupid amounts of bang for buck. They routinely go for less than $50 + shipping. I got mine for $50 shipped.

Excuse the distortion and content aware. It's kinda cramped in my bedroom (If you couldn't tell from my speaker arrangement), so I had to stitch two shots together.


----------



## pioneerisloud




----------



## lagittaja

I'd like to be added to the club.
I have two systems.
One over at my moms place, 90's speakers and a/v amp hooked up to my htpc system I built for my mom.
And at my apartment I have my own 5.1 setup.
Don't currently have any pics of my own speakers but they are
Olavi Räsänen Cinemazound Pro 5.0 set + Pioneer VSX-519 + Audio Pro Sub B1.20


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=fi&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.or-group.fi%2For-loudspeakers%2Ffi%2Fkotiteatteri_sarjat%2For_cinemazound_pro.php
http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=fi&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.or-group.fi%2For-loudspeakers%2Ffi%2Fkaiuttimet%2For_dynamic_sarja%2For_m20.php
http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=fi&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.or-group.fi%2For-loudspeakers%2Ffi%2Fkaiuttimet%2For_dynamic_sarja%2For_c22.php
http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=fi&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.or-group.fi%2For-loudspeakers%2Ffi%2Fkaiuttimet%2For_dynamic_sarja%2For_r22.php



Pics of the first setup


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Speakers: JWS GenExxa GX1000
Far away:








Sony STR-GX311 Amp and Sony TC-W300 cassette deck
















Size comparison of the tower vs Logitech M215 wireless mouse
















Damn I gotta budget myself a proper new amp for this setup








Some Rotel or Marantz stereo amp would be nice


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14244909*
> I'd like to be added to the club.
> I have two systems.
> One over at my moms place, 90's speakers and a/v amp hooked up to my htpc system I built for my mom.
> And at my apartment I have my own 5.1 setup.
> Don't currently have any pics of my own speakers but they are
> Olavi Räsänen Cinemazound Pro 5.0 set + Pioneer VSX-519 + Audio Pro Sub B1.20
> 
> Pics of the first setup
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Speakers: JWS GenExxa GX1000
> Far away:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sony STR-GX311 Amp and Sony TC-W300 cassette deck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Size comparison of the tower vs Logitech M215 wireless mouse
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn I gotta budget myself a proper new amp for this setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some Rotel or Marantz stereo amp would be nice


There's actually nothing exactly WRONG with the receiver you're using. I've got one of those EXACT Sony receivers in storage just sitting around collecting dust.







But its honestly not a bad receiver at all. The problem with Sony (in that particular time) was their speakers had bad crossovers...and well, their speakers have never been anything too great.

I love your setup though.







I am a fan of very large speakers though......


----------



## lagittaja

Yeah, these JWS towers are quite nice.
And yes the amp is quite nice but I would "need" moar POWER








These speakers 10" woofers are quite nice too.

Sometime I gotta grab my Pioneer with me when I visit my mom and hook those GenExxa's to it just for the kicks


----------



## pioneerisloud

Okay, so I'd like an update. I've got video's instead of photo's.







Here's my setups as they're setup right now (the video's are random, but show all my gear).

*Living Room:*

Samsung 50" 1080p plasma
Yamaha RX-V467 receiver (main receiver)
Pioneer VSX-504S receiver (sub amp, 2ohm per channel @ 350w RMS tested)
Pioneer PD-M410 CD Changer
Pioneer CS-405 Tower Speakers (12" woofer, 5.25" mid, 3" tweeter) (40w RMS rated, take 120w RMS daily)
Kenwood Excelon 12" DVC subs, tuned ported box @ 30Hz (400w RMS each, tested to handle 250w RMS each)
Jensen generic Center (4" 2 way) (will be replaced with Polk CS1)
Jensen generic surrounds (4" full range) (will be replaced with Polk Monitor 30's)
*Computer (other side of living room):*

Dayton DTA-100a mini amplifier (50w RMS x2, and headphones amp in one)
Dayton B652 Bookshelfs
Dayton SUB120 (to be purchased)
*Bedroom:*

Dynex 32" 720p LED LCD
Dayton DTA-100a mini amp (to be purchased)
Dayton B652 Bookshelfs (to be purchased)
Dayton SUB100 (to be purchased)
*Videos (WARNING: SOME VIDEOS MAY CONTAIN EXPLICIT LANGUAGE):*
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8beYTzdwa0g[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XR7wugxQHCU[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tz91Beyw7yw[/ame]
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D7w06DvY78[/ame]


----------



## Narzon

Pretty terrible pic, but here it is


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

M-Audio BX5a Deluxe


----------



## lagittaja

Its ok picture.
But it looks like they are a little too high imo









Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## Narzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14272784*
> Its ok picture.
> But it looks like they are a little too high imo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


Mhm, it's an old pic. Have them titled down towards me on MoPads. Whenever I need to hear the finest details, I just stand a little. Really though, it's not a huge difference, at least not for me. Still sounds great. Not planning on getting rid of this desk any time soon.


----------



## lagittaja

Mhm.
My main speakers, OR M20's arent that well aligned too, and that's only when I sit on my computer.
It's mainly because of the table I have, around 2,5-3meters wide so








But when I watch movies or need/want to concentrate/"live with the music" I'm sitting in my huge mechanism recliner







And the speakers are aligned towards the recliner so








I'll look and try to find a pic of my setup.
When I moved to my current apartment I think I took a panorama pic.. Not quite sure where I upped it but I'll link it here when I find it.

E: Okay I found it.
Crappy panorama taken with my phone so quality is not what I would like to to be. And you can't see my recliner from this pic. I held camera a bit high so it doesn't show in this, but I took the pic standing right behind it.
E2: lmao, forgot to insert the link..








Here we go








http://360.vtcreator.com/view#!/photo/1202
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Just grabbed a new amp and external EQ to push the bass a little harder.

Current:
Lepai LP-2020A+ (Tripath TA2020)
JBL D38
JBL Venue Sub12

New amp/EQ to replace Lepai:
Audiosource AMP-100
Audiosource EQ-8


----------



## kody7839

Well...I finally moved my love for good, clean, crisp sound over to my PC.

I picked up a ASUS Xonar DG and paired it with some M-Audio AV40's.










I know it's a small start, but I'm LOVING the sound stage and crispness of my new setup. The bass is tight and accurate yet not over powering. The mid and highs are clear and smooth. I don't think it could get much better for ~$150 (speakers and sound card).

I had been using my Sennheiser HD 555 for music and my Klipsch Promedia 2.1's for gaming for a while and it was alright but I was never in love with them. They were a little too bassy for me and any time I started to crank up the volume, I was quickly overcome and was forced to turn it down. After my second set of ProMedia died this past week (both had amp failures) I knew it was time to make a change. They are great for games and effects for the "boom" effect, but anything more than that gave me too much ear fatigue.

Next up is a new flat top desk to get things spread out a little bit and some small stands to get them up in a better position.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Instead of the Kenwood Excelon 12's for my home sub, I now have a Polk Audio db 12" in a tuned ported box at 32Hz.







Otherwise my setup is still the same. Saving for 2 pairs of Monitor 30's, a CS2, a Dayton 1000w rack amp, and another Dayton DTA-100a T amp for the rears.


----------



## justinb6003

I've been wanting to try a "surround sound processor" so I can use a center channel along with my fronts, comming out of a stereo amp. Recommended or? Also, in my case, smaller is better if anyone knows a workaround.


----------



## staryoshi

I'm rockin' the Logitech Z313s... That could change if more people would reply to my thread


----------



## Shane1244

Klipsch SUB-12 just stopped working.. They Klipsch tech people told me to contact these random gentic people, which told me to take it bestbuy.. Good thing I work there or they I'd probably never get this thing replaced..


----------



## gorb

Quote:



Originally Posted by *staryoshi*


I'm rockin' the Logitech Z313s... That could change if more people would reply to my thread










Your budget is super low. The only thing I can recommend would be a pair of b652s from parts-express along with one of the cheap amps.


----------



## chinesekiwi

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kody7839*


Well...I finally moved my love for good, clean, crisp sound over to my PC.

I picked up a ASUS Xonar DG and paired it with some M-Audio AV40's.











you should concave the speakers 30 degrees from where you usually sit. Time to get out the protractor! Speaker height is also important, I'd say the smaller tweeter near the top of your earlobe is a good startpoint for speaker height but experiment and refine.

Both will result in better, more balanced sounding sound.


----------



## kody7839

Quote:



Originally Posted by *chinesekiwi*


you should concave the speakers 30 degrees from where you usually sit. Time to get out the protractor! Speaker height is also important, I'd say the smaller tweeter near the top of your earlobe is a good startpoint for speaker height but experiment and refine.

Both will result in better, more balanced sounding sound.


Thank for the feedback









I have experience on speaker placement as my both my father is a huge audiophile that has helped me with my previous stereo/home theater setups, but I'm at the limits of the desk at this point. It's just too tight with the selves on the left side and the monitor stand I'm using.

I plan on getting a new desk in the near future that will give me more room to spread things out and get the speakers sitting a little better. I'd like to get them up and pointing in like you mentioned plus I'd also like to get them away from the back a wall a bit.

I'm just amazed with their overall sound and warmth right out of the box and with the less than ideal positioning I have them at now. I look forward to seeing what they do once things are cleaned up a bit.


----------



## Shane1244

I ended up getting a JBL SUB150P.. thats all I could get as a replacement really


----------



## lithgroth007

Just got some Swan D2.1se's hopefully that qualifies me for this club


----------



## Shane1244

Specs in sig!


----------



## gorb

super mismatch


----------



## Shane1244

Haha.. Ya I know. I'm going to buy some Klipsch RF82's, as I can get them for $200 a peice. I had a Klipsch SUB12, but it died today.. It's discontinued, and all BestBuy had was the 8"s.

Before you ask, Why BestBuy? Most speakers are like 60% off with my employee discount (I Pay cost)


----------



## gorb

nice


----------



## Shane1244

The Cerwin Vega's are definitely very good party speakers though.







I'll never get rid of them.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;14351857*
> Your budget is super low. The only thing I can recommend would be a pair of b652s from parts-express along with one of the cheap amps.


I'm willing to flex a bit. $100-$150 for a decent 2/2.1 setup shouldn't be asking too much


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;14358253*
> I'm willing to flex a bit. $100-$150 for a decent 2/2.1 setup shouldn't be asking too much


Get my setup then, and add a sub later. $130 for a Dayton DTA-100a T amp (headphones and speaker amp, 50w RMS per channel), and Dayton B652 bookshelfs. The cheapest sub you could pair with them and get good sound would be the Dayton SUB80, and that's another $100, putting you at $230 total cost with the sub, or $130 without the sub.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14358272*
> Get my setup then, and add a sub later. $130 for a Dayton DTA-100a T amp (headphones and speaker amp, 50w RMS per channel), and Dayton B652 bookshelfs. The cheapest sub you could pair with them and get good sound would be the Dayton SUB80, and that's another $100, putting you at $230 total cost with the sub, or $130 without the sub.


Pio, you're so attentive. I'd hug if you if you were real







I'm going to do some digging as to what I really want... I'll pitch more ideas in the thread later, so be there to critique it


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;14358319*
> Pio, you're so attentive. I'd hug if you if you were real
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to do some digging as to what I really want... I'll pitch more ideas in the thread later, so be there to critique it


I'll be around, as long as my internet doesn't drop again (it does every night).


----------



## ninposam

I have a bit of a old system that will be set up this weekend after some time in my loft.
B & W 601 first edition
B & W stands full with lead shot, sorry dont know there model
Alchemist Axiom amp, dont know if any of you can remember this sweet amp? http://www.alchemisthifi.info/ranges...ier.htm#design
Will post pics as soon as its up and running again.


----------



## Xyro TR1

My god this sounds awesome. Finally got my EQ8 and AMP100 in and installed (haphazardly, but that's only because my cables haven't arrived yet) and it's really brought these 12-year-old D38's to life!

New stuff: (excuse the wiring fail)


----------



## gorb

hooray


----------



## Firestorm252

ooo, that's an amp I'm considering picking up while I work on my old Fisher. torn between the DTA-100a and that one.

coming down to a matter of available space on my listening area it seems :\\


----------



## spice003

if anyone is looking to buy some towers, newegg has Enenergy CF-70 for $199 each right now on shell shocker.


----------



## lithgroth007

This setup is extremely temporary. I just wanted to get them out of their boxes and see how they sound before I move tomorrow.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lithgroth007*


This setup is extremely temporary. I just wanted to get them out of their boxes and see how they sound before I move tomorrow.

...
...


You can't just leave us hanging...

Do they sound as good as they look?


----------



## lagittaja

Damn those look good.
Makes me wanna sell my current HT and buying a pair of Wharfedales 10.2's


----------



## Mr.Zergling

I didn't even know OCN had a speaker club.....

Well, here's my no expense, blast from the past, and assembeled out of stuff lying around in my basement







.

Denon DRA-545R receiver (apparently from the early 90s)









and then speakers, which I have no clue about, they say "Fisher ST-430A speaker system" on the back. They're pretty good, but I can find next to no information on them, beyond that they're from the 70s and a pair cost $440.


----------



## murderbymodem

Speaker club, I need your help. I'm looking to buy a set of speakers at the ~$120 pricepoint, so far I'm looking at the M-Audio AV30 or AV40, Swan M10, and Behringer MS16. Any help deciding between these, or additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

They'll be used solely for listening to music while I study (I loathe speakers for gaming). I mostly listen to Instrumental/Post-Rock/Ambient music, plus a little bit of Dubstep.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;14465050*
> Speaker club, I need your help. I'm looking to buy a set of speakers at the ~$120 pricepoint, so far I'm looking at the M-Audio AV30 or AV40, Swan M10, and Behringer MS16. Any help deciding between these, or additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> They'll be used solely for listening to music while I study (I loathe speakers for gaming). I mostly listen to Instrumental/Post-Rock/Ambient music, plus a little bit of Dubstep.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290202

I am a Polk junkie.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;14465050*
> Speaker club, I need your help. I'm looking to buy a set of speakers at the ~$120 pricepoint, so far I'm looking at the M-Audio AV30 or AV40, Swan M10, and Behringer MS16. Any help deciding between these, or additional suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> They'll be used solely for listening to music while I study (I loathe speakers for gaming). I mostly listen to Instrumental/Post-Rock/Ambient music, plus a little bit of Dubstep.


I suggest my setup on that price point.

Dayton DTA-100a mini amp $100
Dayton B652 Bookshelfs $35

This setup will allow you to add WHATEVER speakers you want to later if you want better (like the Polks below as an example), you can add a subwoofer to it easily later, and still use the same volume knob (unlike powered monitors), and its also a headphones amp too.







Make sure you've got a good sound card though, as its fully analogue. I noticed a huge difference from a receiver to that mini amp in clarity. Sound card is one of my next things on my list on my SB build because of that setup.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753;14466111*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290202
> 
> I am a Polk junkie.


Those are passive speakers. All the speakers he listed are active, so its very unlikely he has an amp already.







Those are okay speakers though, but if he doesn't have an amp / receiver already then its going to break the budget by adding one in.


----------



## murderbymodem

Yeah, amp-wise, all I have is the integrated amp on my Xonar DG, as well as a FiiO E5. Nothing that could drive speakers I'm sure









Edit: Bah, amazon does have the speakers you suggested, but not the amp (not fulfilled by Amazon, anyway). I was trying to do Amazon because I currently have the Prime trial and get $3 overnight shipping


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;14467247*
> Yeah, amp-wise, all I have is the integrated amp on my Xonar DG, as well as a FiiO E5. Nothing that could drive speakers I'm sure
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Bah, amazon does have the speakers you suggested, but not the amp (not fulfilled by Amazon, anyway). I was trying to do Amazon because I currently have the Prime trial and get $3 overnight shipping


Just order them off Parts Express, that's where they're coming from on Amazon anyway. Get rid of the middle man (Amazon).









And I think PE has free shipping on orders over $100 anyway.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14467290*
> Just order them off Parts Express, that's where they're coming from on Amazon anyway. Get rid of the middle man (Amazon).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I think PE has free shipping on orders over $100 anyway.


$98.. lol
Quote:


> Free Shipping Offer Details/Exclusions:
> Free Economy shipping (to a single address) for orders with a merchandise total over *$98*
> Available only to on-line orders shipping within the Contiguous U.S. (excluding APO/FPO)
> Allow 5-10 business days for delivery
> Wholesale, EDU, Government, COD and volume priced orders not eligible
> Items not ground shippable due to weight, cube or aerosol restrictions do not qualify. Some large, heavy, or bulky items may require additional shipping charges (noted in product details and checkout)
> Free shipping eligibility will not apply if items are cancelled which reduce the merchandise total below the minimum order requirement
> Terms and conditions are subject to change without notice


----------



## murderbymodem

Quote:


> Automatic switching 3.5mm input jack allows you to switch audio sources quickly


That makes me happy. I've been using a 3.5mm splitter to switch between my headphones and my crappy Logitech speakers. Pain in the butt.

Edit: So, stupid question, but I'm a total speaker noobie. How do you hook the speakers up to the amp? Is there just a single RCA jack on the back of each bookshelf, and I'll plug one into the left of the amp and one into the right?


----------



## gorb

speaker cables from amp to speakers.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;14467378*
> That makes me happy. I've been using a 3.5mm splitter to switch between my headphones and my crappy Logitech speakers. Pain in the butt.
> 
> Edit: So, stupid question, but I'm a total speaker noobie. How do you hook the speakers up to the amp? Is there just a single RCA jack on the back of each bookshelf, and I'll plug one into the left of the amp and one into the right?


You'll need standard speaker wire (probably want to go 14ga to be safe). 50' is like $10 on PE. You just strip both ends (both pos and neg), obviously cut to length, one end goes into custom terminals supplied with the amp, the other just goes bare wire into the speaker. The only tools you'll need is a small phillips screwdriver, and a pair of wire splitters (or finger nail clippers, or scissors, whatever).


----------



## murderbymodem

Ah, okay. I was just very confused because the terminals on the amp are rounded and look exactly like RCA. Thanks guys.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;14467611*
> Ah, okay. I was just very confused because the terminals on the amp are rounded and look exactly like RCA. Thanks guys.


The amp comes with special connectors just for that purpose.







It also comes with a 3.5mm to RCA wire to hook it up, but it is a little on the short side.

All you absolutely NEED is speaker wire (14ga preferred), and maybe, maybe a longer 3.5mm to RCA wire.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14467816*
> The amp comes with special connectors just for that purpose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It also comes with a 3.5mm to RCA wire to hook it up, but it is a little on the short side.
> 
> All you absolutely NEED is speaker wire (14ga preferred), and maybe, maybe a longer 3.5mm to RCA wire.


For reference, they are called Banana Plugs.

Here's the video on how to install:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v10Xy2pQzgo&feature=player_detailpage#t=77s


----------



## murderbymodem

Any thoughts on me going with a Lepai Tripath TA2020 amp to save some money and then getting a better amp later? I've read it's a pretty good amp for the price.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;14468448*
> Any thoughts on me going with a Lepai Tripath TA2020 amp to save some money and then getting a better amp later? I've read it's a pretty good amp for the price.


It's okay, but its only 20w RMS per channel at 8ohms. I'd rather buy the most important part first myself (the amp), and upgrade speakers / subs later. Your call though.

I've personally tested the DTA-100a with my B652's and my Pioneer 12" towers (from 1984). And it powers both very VERY well, it bottoms out my towers.


----------



## Shane1244

You could probably get away with using this:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=310-2214


----------



## murderbymodem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14468490*
> It's okay, but its only 20w RMS per channel at 8ohms. I'd rather buy the most important part first myself (the amp), and upgrade speakers / subs later. Your call though.
> 
> I've personally tested the DTA-100a with my B652's and my Pioneer 12" towers (from 1984). And it powers both very VERY well, it bottoms out my towers.


Yeah, I'm not working any more so any little bit I can save would help, I just need some speakers that sound decent for listening to music while I study. If some of my stuff that I have in the b/s/t sells I'll be able to go with the DTA-100a as I do really like that it can be used for headphones as well, and it's black so it will match my computer setup better than the Lepai, but that amp and speaker combo for just above $60 is pretty tempting.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Redmist;14468524*
> Yeah, I'm not working any more so any little bit I can save would help, I just need some speakers that sound decent for listening to music while I study. If some of my stuff that I have in the b/s/t sells I'll be able to go with the DTA-100a as I do really like that it can be used for headphones as well, and it's black so it will match my computer setup better than the Lepai, but that amp and speaker combo for just above $60 is pretty tempting.


Well, I remember those B652's selling with the 15wpc Dayton amp, and there were a lot of positive reviews about that setup. So 20wpc might work okay on them.

Definitely if you can afford it though, go for the better amp first. That's going to be your backbone to the entire system (if you upgrade speakers / add a sub later).


----------



## gorb

I'd get the cheaper amp and try to get an actual receiver later


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;14468810*
> I'd get the cheaper amp and try to get an actual receiver later


What about space concerns though?







I'm all for running a receiver, but some of us would rather have a tiny little mini amp instead.







A receiver is definitely going to be the better choice for power, and future proofing. I'd rather have desk space myself though.


----------



## gorb

If I was worried about desk space I'd buy a small teac receiver - it'd still be larger than the miniamps though.

I like the functionality (bass management, mostly) and power that you get with a receiver.


----------



## Xyro TR1

FWIW I <3 my little Lepai amp. It powered my desk speakers until I got my Audiosource stuff, and did a damn good job of it. Highly recommended, and a steal at ~$20.

Keep in mind that it uses the same Tripath Class T amp that's in the Dayton DTA-1 which everyone loves. It's not super loud, but it can definitely get too loud for apartments and shared living areas.


----------



## lithgroth007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;14433138*
> You can't just leave us hanging...
> 
> Do they sound as good as they look?


They sound better than they look, and that is saying something because with the new setup they look amazing.


----------



## gorb

D2.1 se? Good looking speakers...I wouldn't mind checking em out one of these days


----------



## boostinsteve

I have Sony SS-B1000's, and a polk PSW-10. Not really that impressed with this sub. It is my first sub that I didn't build and match components. For 50 bucks, couldn't say no.


----------



## gorb

You really can't complain for 50 bucks, but it's definitely not a sub I'd recommend.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve;14533630*
> I have Sony SS-B1000's, and a polk PSW-10. Not really that impressed with this sub. It is my first sub that I didn't build and match components. For 50 bucks, couldn't say no.


That's understandable honestly. You should have picked some different bookshelfs too, I'll bet those are lacking pretty well too. For $50, the Polk PSW-10 is okay. I certainly would NEVER buy it at full price, and I would ALWAYS recommend a better one (Dayton SUB80 at the least). But for $50 its not bad. It's a really boomy sounding subwoofer, and it really lacks low notes badly too, for being a 10" driver.


----------



## lagittaja

I paid 40€ for my Audio Pro Sub B1.20 + a rather expensive "looking" 2meter rca cable + y rca cable
Can't really complain








Awesome sub for my apartment and my use.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Hey OCN, I'm planning out the new home theater for the new house I'm getting. I need some decent towers for front channels and a matching center. I am on a strict budget of no more than $120/ch (I know that's hella low, but that's what I'm working with. I got my D38s for $30 and they're epic)

I'm looking for quality moreso than loudness. 100W RMS/ea is _more_ than enough.

Recommendations?


----------



## gorb

I recommend you just save and increase your budget. A budget that low means super entry level stuff like the polk monitor series (which i am not a fan of) or getting amazing deals on craigslist/somewhere else online. You shouldn't bank on getting another deal like the one you got from me because those aren't all that common









If you removed the floorstanding need I could recommend some bookshelf speakers that you would hopefully like a lot and are far under your budget.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


I recommend you just save and increase your budget. A budget that low means super entry level stuff like the polk monitor series (which i am not a fan of) or getting amazing deals on craigslist/somewhere else online. You shouldn't bank on getting another deal like the one you got from me because those aren't all that common









If you removed the floorstanding need I could recommend some bookshelf speakers that you would hopefully like a lot and are far under your budget.


Well if I get bookshelf speakers, they have to be pretty damn good with sound that will actually fill a room. I'll also need stands, of course. Are there specific stands that you lot find to be the best as well?

I'm someone who knows good sound, but doesn't know exactly what to buy to achieve it.


----------



## gorb

how large of a room are we talking, and what kind of SPL are you expecting? anyway I'd recommend infinity p162s for $85/each and the stands I recommend are sanus bf-31b which are only ~$30/pair.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


how large of a room are we talking, and what kind of SPL are you expecting? anyway I'd recommend infinity p162s for $85/each and the stands I recommend are sanus bf-31b which are only ~$30/pair.


Similar to my JBL E30's.














I also own an Infinity PC 250 center channel. I like Harmon speakers, but, I love my super low entry level Polk Monitors.


----------



## gessay

I'd like to join. I recently just got into the whole idea of a Home Theater Sound System.

Setup so far;

Pioneer Elite VSX-21TXH Receiver (770w)
PSB Stratus Silver Floor-standers
Polk TSi 100 Bookshelf (extra speakers right now, might set as rears or 2nd Zone)
Martin Logan Dynamo 500 Sub
Panamax M5300-PM (power conditioner)

using all audioquest cables


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


FWIW I <3 my little Lepai amp. It powered my desk speakers until I got my Audiosource stuff, and did a damn good job of it. Highly recommended, and a steal at ~$20.

Keep in mind that it uses the same Tripath Class T amp that's in the Dayton DTA-1 which everyone loves. It's not super loud, but it can definitely get too loud for apartments and shared living areas.


+1 I love both of my Lepai amps.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Darkapoc*


+1 I love both of my Lepai amps.










Good to know. I may get one whenever I happen to finish the speakers for my computer







. I'm surprised several people on here like them, I wouldn't have thought they would be any good.


----------



## lagittaja

Nice speakers lithgroth007 and gessay


----------



## Darkapoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;14573626*
> Good to know. I may get one whenever I happen to finish the speakers for my computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm surprised several people on here like them, I wouldn't have thought they would be any good.


They're pretty dang surprising for sensitive speakers, plus if you're decent with modding you can easily make it a bay device and run the input and output posts in a pci bracket / 5.25 bay.
Mine fits perfectly, just haven't gotten around to modding it yet. (Mine runs on 12 volt, the power supply will make a pretty substantial difference in sound quality though so beware and test before doing anything permanent.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkapoc;14634168*
> They're pretty dang surprising for sensitive speakers, plus if you're decent with modding you can easily make it a bay device and run the input and output posts in a pci bracket / 5.25 bay.
> Mine fits perfectly, just haven't gotten around to modding it yet. (Mine runs on 12 volt, the power supply will make a pretty substantial difference in sound quality though so beware and test before doing anything permanent.


Never even thought to do that... This thing is actually going to be powering speakers off my HTPC... I think I'll have to make this happen!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1;14634495*
> Never even thought to do that... This thing is actually going to be powering speakers off my HTPC... I think I'll have to make this happen!


Such a good idea....I would do the same, but I don't think my receiver, 2 channel amp, and sub amp will all fit in my HTPC.









(Don't have sub amp and HTPC yet, using my 2 ch as a sub amp for now).


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm just going to copy / paste because its still relevant here, other than the TV (from the home theater thread).

Here's mine (videos are attached at the bottom):

*Front setup (with a 50" Samsung Plasma 1080p, 3D set):*









*Main Receiver (Yamaha 467):*









*Subwoofer amplifier (Pioneer VSX-504S) (550w RMS to the sub):*









*Center Channel (unknown model Jensen, old from a 5 piece set):*









*Front Speakers and Subwoofer (Pioneer CS-405 / Polk Audio dB 12" @ 32Hz):*









*Side Speakers (Pioneer CS-G305, one has a blown tweeter, will be fixed...both midranges are punched in, a vacuum can fix that):*

















*Rear Speakers (Jensen unknown model dual 6.5" towers, sound bigger than they are):*

















Obviously in those last pictures of my rears, you can see my computer speakers too. Those are Dayton B652 bookshelfs, and I love those to death.









The Pioneer side speakers I just bought yesterday for $50 (not sure if tweeter was blown when I bought or not), and the Jensen towers I just bought today for $25. I couldn't be happier with Craigslist.









*Video (talking to Syrillian a little, and then excursion test):*
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CUEiGM_Bs4[/ame]


----------



## TUDJ

So much dust


----------



## kabj06

Would a Harman/Kardon SoundSticks III let me in?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tUDJ;14673690*
> So much dust


I don't know why, I just dusted last Sunday (as I do EVERY Sunday). Sigh.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;14669891*
> I'm just going to copy / paste because its still relevant here, other than the TV (from the home theater thread).
> 
> Here's mine (videos are attached at the bottom):
> 
> ...
> 
> Obviously in those last pictures of my rears, you can see my computer speakers too. Those are Dayton B652 bookshelfs, and I love those to death.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Pioneer side speakers I just bought yesterday for $50 (not sure if tweeter was blown when I bought or not), and the Jensen towers I just bought today for $25. I couldn't be happier with Craigslist.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Video (talking to Syrillian a little, and then excursion test):*
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6CUEiGM_Bs4


I bet your neighbors love you lol.

I must know, did you blow something in that video, toward the end you mentioned something smelled...


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;14680305*
> I bet your neighbors love you lol.
> 
> I must know, did you blow something in that video, toward the end you mentioned something smelled...


If I would have kept it up that loud, I would have popped the subwoofer. All is still fine.









Youtube actually kind of killed that video. The tower woofers were moving a LOT (near bottoming out, all 4 of them), and the subwoofer was near bottoming out as well. And I think I was bottoming out on the low note at the end (after I turned it up another 3dB), which is what caused the smell.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


If I would have kept it up that loud, I would have popped the subwoofer. All is still fine.









Youtube actually kind of killed that video. The tower woofers were moving a LOT (near bottoming out, all 4 of them), and the subwoofer was near bottoming out as well. And I think I was bottoming out on the low note at the end (after I turned it up another 3dB), which is what caused the smell.


How low is the xover?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*


How low is the xover?


It's set at 60Hz (high and low pass). My fronts only extend to around 50Hz successfully (rated to 40Hz, but where they're at they don't pick it up), so I figured that was a happy medium.

I've now noticed today, that when I do get a 60Hz tone in music....yeah ouch. 5x 12" woofers all doing 60Hz, all getting a good amount of excursion, yeah....

I need to set a lower crossover on the sub at the very least to compensate for the rolloff, but I lack a "proper" sub amp right now.

I probably need like 55Hz or so on the speakers (high), and like 40-45Hz on the subwoofer (low), but I lack the proper equipment for that right now.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Amazon.com: Jamo S426HCS3 5pcs Home Theater Speaker System - by Klipsch: Electronics
Thoughts? They look pretty great to me for budget speakers...


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Amazon.com: Jamo S426HCS3 5pcs Home Theater Speaker System - by Klipsch: Electronics

Thoughts? They look pretty great to me for budget speakers...


http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...323&CatId=4586

Ask this guy, he bought one.

http://www.overclock.net/home-audio/...ter-audio.html


----------



## gorb

Yeah...awesome deal with that cheap receiver thrown in.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


Yeah...awesome deal with that cheap receiver thrown in.


So, do you think it's okay? I think that it is a great deal. Whether it's for someone looking to get into home theater, or someone that doesn't have a lot of money.


----------



## gorb

I don't think it'd be possible to get anything better for that price, except for an amazingly rare deal on craigslist.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


I don't think it'd be possible to get anything better for that price, except for an amazingly rare deal on craigslist.


gorb? +1 rep


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


I don't think it'd be possible to get anything better for that price, except for an amazingly rare deal on craigslist.


Or on OCN classifieds...


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1;14693666*
> Or on OCN classifieds...


What did you did buy?


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1;14693666*
> Or on OCN classifieds...


True









But with OCN the odds of finding a matching speaker set like that would be pretty rare









Anyway I haven't seen any measurements or in depth reviews of those particular jamos, but I have read some positive impressions of them on other forums...considering the receiver alone goes for $250 and the speakers for $500, $420 for both sounds like a steal.

If you already had a receiver, I would get these for $400 - they're more capable than the S426 set:
http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/item/reviews/544012176/
or you could buy the onkyo + s426 set and sell the new receiver (or old receiver) and make the set even cheaper


----------



## staryoshi

I have a set of Corsair SP2200s on the way... for $55 shipped ($40 A/R) I feel as though they should be a nice step up from my Z-313s







(Which I enjoy, but my girlfriend has been eyeballing for quite some time)


----------



## spice003

@staryoshi

Quote:



*2) Membership and parameters:*

Membership is site-wide, but limited insofar as to the particular sort of gear a member is running in his audio setup.

With a few other select members, we briefly discussed any limitations or parameters needed to be set on acceptance into the club. We did this because certain brands, names, sorts are simply not up to standards with what is consistently deemed as quality across the entire hobby of audio. The issue is, of course, that a brand such as Logitech, which is truly not a quality product as far as speakers go, has reached a niche market in the pc-enthusiast world and maintains popularity in it. I personally feel that someone truly engaged and interested in speakers will have moved beyond Logitech, etc., at a certain point or is considering doing so eventually. As such, _we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters._












Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


True









But with OCN the odds of finding a matching speaker set like that would be pretty rare









Anyway I haven't seen any measurements or in depth reviews of those particular jamos, but I have read some positive impressions of them on other forums...considering the receiver alone goes for $250 and the speakers for $500, $420 for both sounds like a steal.

If you already had a receiver, I would get these for $400 - they're more capable than the S426 set:
http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/it...ews/544012176/
or you could buy the onkyo + s426 set and sell the new receiver (or old receiver) and make the set even cheaper










thats actually a pretty good deal for a full HT system.


----------



## staryoshi

Elitists









Don't make me bust out my old Aiwa system


----------



## gorb

I still have an old aiwa system...I think it's 15 years old or so. I use it as an alarm clock


----------



## Xyro TR1

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=309-383

Great deal time!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Man, I'm going tower speaker crazy over here guys.....

I'm about to pick up a pair of Sony towers (dual 6.5" woofers, single 1" tweeter) from the 90's.....back before Sony started mass producing garbage. I think I'll use these and the half decent Sony receiver (well all the Sony stuff) as my bedroom gear for now......

And you can be sure, the Sony stuff will be the first thing to go when I start replacing living room speakers with better stuff.


----------



## Gunfire

Just picked up a set of AV40's, now I just need to find a soundcard


----------



## lowfat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunfire;14714396*
> Just picked up a set of AV40's, now I just need to find a soundcard


What is your budget? An X-FI Titanium HD is actually a fantastic 2 channel card.


----------



## Gunfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowfat;14727684*
> What is your budget? An X-FI Titanium HD is actually a fantastic 2 channel card.


I was actually looking at that on Amazon for $130, just have to wait till next paycheck


----------



## EpicPie

I'll join the club.








Logitech z-2300's(I think? Sub doesn't have any exhaust hole on it) Sony SS-NX1's and a pair of PSB Alpha Mite's` that sit under my monitors.

I don't use my Logitech speakers since I mostly use headphones or listen through my monitors, they're also my brothers speakers. lulz


----------



## kgury

I'll join I have a
Klipsch 5.1 setup
With some Logitech Crap thrown in xD


----------



## Shane1244

Where's the center for the Klipsch? :S


----------



## kgury

it broke =(((


----------



## Jo0

I just built speaker stands for my Dayton B652s. I'm currently running an old Aiwa TS-W45 sub, but I'm looking to upgrade to something better soon.

Speakers - Dayton B652
Amp - DTA - 100
Subwoofer - Aiwa TS-W45 (looking for an upgrade)

I can't tell what looks better. Naked speakers or covered. Lol

Covered:








Naked:









Hope you guys like it.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Definitely naked speakers.









@kgury:
I'm sorry to say this, but this club is for people with REAL speakers, not PC Speakers.


----------



## darthspartan

I agree with Pioneer they look better naked that's how i left mine for a while well i finished fixing the covers alas i have cats so covered they stay.


----------



## EpicPie

I wish I could get my PSB Alpha Mite's naked, would look much better imo.


----------



## Interpolation

Just added in a set of Cerwin Vega XLS-6's. Please update my stats. Thanks!


----------



## Levesque

I play my PC games in that room. Fully acoustically treated, totally isolated from my house.

Speakers:

Paradigm Signature S8 (2X)
Paradigm Signature C5
Paradigm Signature S2 (4X)
Paradigm Signature Servo (2X)

Amps:

Anthem Statement P2 (2X325W)
Anthem Statement P5 (5X325W)

Pre-pro

Anthem Statement D2v



















Can I join the Club?


----------



## LoNeLyKiLLeR

i would like to join
My speakers Creative Inspire P580


----------



## matrix2000x2

I have a Logitech Z506 5.1 surround set, and I lost the surround sound cables so I only have the the green 3.5mm input cable left. I still want to do full surround but I don't have the other colored cables. I am missing the orange/yellow and black cables. I'm in the process of buying the missing cables, and my questions is whether or not I can just buy the black 3.5mm input jack and use it rather having to buy from the Logitech website for $2 + $6 shipping, when I can get it for cheaper. I am assuming that the cables are the same, just that the logitech ones are colored coded. Is my assumption correct or are the colored cables really any different?


----------



## chinesekiwi

Levesque, I think you could upgrade your soundcard, it probably being small change for you lols.


----------



## FireAroundTheBrim

Don't know if this counts or not but I use some JBL Control Ones for my pc.
















edit: you guys have the address of the best American Chinese Food in my town!


----------



## EpicPie

I see HD201's. Look at mah sig bruv.


----------



## FireAroundTheBrim

Wow, those look very nice


----------



## Smallville

Any recommendations for a $200-300 set of powered speakers? Im currently using a pair of Logitech Z2300s.

I've been looking at the Swan M50W and the Audioengine A5.

Are the A5s a significant upgrade from the A2s? I would prefer to stay around the low 200s budget-wise, but my absolute budget is $300 after shipping and taxes.


----------



## Firestorm252

update on mine when you get the chance.
I got bored this summer and ventured into first-time speaker DIY with a completely unnecessary 2.1 upgrade. For a first-time project, it turned out fairly well.

Disclaimer:
yes, they probably weren't meant for nearfield. But according to this post by the guy who designed them, they seem to fare well. And I can't complain









L/Rs - Sealed Tritrix
Sub - Dayton DCS205-4, custom box



Notice the clear-coat smear on the case on the left? I didn't know it was there til I saw this photo...








Also, need to redo the faux-wood vinyl laminate on the left speaker



Couldn't find a pre-made sub that would fit down there. So I made one.
Also, disregard my knee









So, now the problem is that I found out doing this is fun. between my headphones and now this, my wallet sees nothing but dark days ahead


----------



## EpicPie

Your DIY speakers look great!


----------



## lagittaja

They look good indeed









Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunfire;14714396*
> Just picked up a set of AV40's, now I just need to find a soundcard


I just return my Av40's to amazon , i had a really bad experience with mine, after 30 min on game play my speakers start to fail,
1 - problem was on MW2 could nor rear every word.
2 - L and R speakers start to fail only rear one at the time. had to turn off and let it cool for few minutes. and couples other thing that I was very unhappy.
I think I'll buy another set of Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX Certified, those speakers always served me very well, never had any issue with it.


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;15007027*
> I just return my Av40's to amazon , i had a really bad experience with mine, after 30 min on game play my speakers start to fail,
> 1 - problem was on MW2 could nor rear every word.
> 2 - L and R speakers start to fail only rear one at the time. had to turn off and let it cool for few minutes. and couples other thing that I was very unhappy.
> I think I'll buy another set of Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 THX Certified, those speakers always served me very well, never had any issue with it.


The Klipsch Promedia's are excellent PC speakers ( I just got mine),but it seems they cut corners on the new ones,the satellite cables aren't detachable,and there is no on/off switch on the sub. I also doubt they are a "200watt" system anymore.


----------



## Munkypoo7

Finally got rid of my Creative T20's









Audioengine A2's with stands


















They really sound so much.. clearer, punchier.... just so much better. I'm not great at describing it but it's almost like night and day, it's stunning [especially with music, in-game it's noticeable too, but music.. oh em gee] I'm hearing stuff I've never heard before in my library.. it's creepy.


----------



## 161029

Has anybody here found a good review on the BX5 D2 or BX8 D2? They seem interesting.


----------



## skyn3t

i just got my BX5aD from BH, I have no words to describe how good is those BX, I'm very happy with it, and before those BX i had a pair of Av40's ( i had a bad unit ) returned it same week and ordered my BX5aD with those no need extra bass its sound's very good out of the boxe.


----------



## Deano12345

Hey guys, have a chance to upgrade my 2010's but dont wanna upgrade the amp too, so I've found 2 speakers I could get for 50 euro extra or so, just wondering would either the Aviano 1's or the Wharfedale 10.0's are worth it or would the 2010's be better ? Thanks in advance


----------



## Xyro TR1

I was bored, decided to see how much air these old (free) Pioneer's could move. The answer? Quite a bit.

(note: these are what I'm using while I wait to move. Haven't gotten rid of the D38's, don't worry)

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8KDopqV6Ev0[/ame]

I can hear the bass clear across the house and outside! It's pretty hilarious. These go stupid low for being 6.5".


----------



## Neet_za

Oh hey guys can I join?
Top; Sintronic 8" sub with 3"/1" Cone-tweeter x2 (left+right)
Bottom; Leak Sandwich Loudspeaker, 13" sub, 3" tweeter x2 (left+right)
as promised;


----------



## pezcore

Oh, nice club. I'm using a pair of Martin Logan Mosaics powered by a basic Niles SI-245 amp. The nice thing about the amp is that it is auto on/off so a few minutes after it gets no signal it shuts off.

These speakers will eventually become the rears in my 5.1 system, as I have the matching fronts (ML Claritys) and center (ML Fresco) waiting to be used.

Here is an old pic, before I moved the PC to a new shelf on the wall










(Maybe) It's also worth mentioning that my "home theater" setup (which includes an HTPC) has some decent speakers as well. Artison Sketch fronts, Artison LRS rears, and a Focal Sub.

Another old pic, but not much has changed here:


----------



## Broseidon

*MTX MAYHEM!*

2x 200w RMS MTX towers, 75w RMS MTX center (not in the picture), 2x SHARP 50w R/L + a (free) 75w BOSE Acoustimass Subwoofer (not pictured). All hooked up to a Sony STR-DE515 pushing 200w/channel


----------



## 161029

Still no BX5 D2/BX8 D2 reviews?


----------



## bobfig

well my tv speakers are nearing the finishing stage. just need to get them painted and the crossover made and they should be done.










build log: http://www.overclock.net/home-audio/1124760-project-home-built-tv-speakers.html


----------



## lagittaja

Finally I got rid of those Olavi Räsänen Cinemazound Pro speakers I had (5.0)








First, I will be getting a pair of these, in black of course








Wharfedale Diamond 10.1
I know they're not exactly good for main speaker usage but I currently have a rather small room so I should be fine, at least with music.

Later on, when I'm done with my school and find a job, I'll be grabbing one of these
Wharfedale Diamond 10.CS

And after that I am not sure how I shall continue upgrading my HT.

If I have a permanent employment contract and I live in a apartment with large enough living room I will get a pair of Diamond 10.7's

If the room is too small I'll just get a pair of 10.2's and be done with it->later on when I live in a bigger apartment I can upgrade to 7.1, move 10.2's to rear, 10.1's to side and get 10.7's as main speakers.

And after the 5.0/7.0 is completed I will consider upgrading my sub.
It's currently a rather puny Audio Pro Sub B1.20, but more than enough for my current use.

Sounds like a plan? But anything can happen. But at least that I am sure of that I WILL be getting those 10.1's, I'll order them on tuesday


----------



## drjoey1500




----------



## skyn3t

since i have my belkin Gold Plated 6FT 1/8 to 2 rca cable sleeved with 2 1/4 mono Golden plated, i'm going to put my BX5a on a stand and add 4 spikes under








. i'll need a long cable at least 8 to 10 feet long, and i was looking for this








but it is only a stand cable, so i need to get in the right direction.

1/8 y cable to rca and 2 1/4 male golden plated or a stand cable 1/8 to 1/4


----------



## Neet_za

@ drjoey1500 hope you got some ported boxes for those







also what are they rated at ?


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;15135833*
> Finally I got rid of those Olavi Räsänen Cinemazound Pro speakers I had (5.0)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, I will be getting a pair of these, in black of course
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wharfedale Diamond 10.1
> I know they're not exactly good for main speaker usage but I currently have a rather small room so I should be fine, at least with music.
> 
> Later on, when I'm done with my school and find a job, I'll be grabbing one of these
> Wharfedale Diamond 10.CS
> 
> And after that I am not sure how I shall continue upgrading my HT.
> 
> If I have a permanent employment contract and I live in a apartment with large enough living room I will get a pair of Diamond 10.7's
> 
> If the room is too small I'll just get a pair of 10.2's and be done with it->later on when I live in a bigger apartment I can upgrade to 7.1, move 10.2's to rear, 10.1's to side and get 10.7's as main speakers.
> 
> And after the 5.0/7.0 is completed I will consider upgrading my sub.
> It's currently a rather puny Audio Pro Sub B1.20, but more than enough for my current use.
> 
> Sounds like a plan? But anything can happen. But at least that I am sure of that I WILL be getting those 10.1's, I'll order them on tuesday


Damn it I already changed my mind haha








I ordered a pair of these instead of those Wharfedale's.
http://www.thomann.de/fi/tannoy_reveal_601p.htm
The Tannoy's will fit my needs much better. I'll just build the HT system sometime later.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neet_za;15154232*
> @ drjoey1500 hope you got some ported boxes for those
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also what are they rated at ?


You'll just have to wait and see







.

Here's the specs according to partsexpress...
Quote:


> Specifications: • Power handling: 70 watts RMS/100 watts max • VCdia: 1-1/2" • Le: 0.32 mH • Impedance: 8 ohms • Re: 5.5 ohms • Frequency range: 28-5,000 Hz • Fs: 28 Hz • SPL: 88 dB 2.83V/1m • Vas: 1.77 cu. ft. • Qms: 1.22 • Qes: 0.33 • Qts: 0.26 • Xmax: 5.0 mm • Dimensions: A: 7-1/4", B: 6-1/4", C: 3-1/4".


These weren't my original plan. For $100 each I wouldn't get them, however for $60...


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;15157165*
> You'll just have to wait and see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Here's the specs according to partsexpress...
> 
> These weren't my original plan. For $100 each I wouldn't get them, however for $60...


Where are you going to use them? You gonna make some 2 or 3 way speakers?
Here's one online calculator for boxes. Just gotta add the volume taken by mid/tweeter to the total volume of the box and adjust the dimensions accordingly.

I've been planning for a long time to make myself big tower speakers using car parts..
YES YES I KNOW.. Don't start..

But something along the lines of 4x 6,5" + 4x 3" + 4x tweeters PER speaker.

And make pairs of them in parallel, 2x 6,5*/*2x 6,5*/*2x 3*/*2x 3*/*2x twtr*/*2x twtr
So the resistance will be 2ohms per pair, then I don't whether it works like this way, but could I connect the pairs in series so it would in theory raise the resistance back to 4ohms? I'm not that experienced with diy audio so









Clarified, 4x elements with 4ohm resistance -> put them parallel in pairs (2x + 2x elements) and resistance is 2ohms -> connect the two pairs in series and in theory resistance will rise back to 4ohms?
Could it work like that or am I stupid?
The crossover WILL be tricky to make for that but I think when I am actually doing this, I will be up for the challenge







Google is my friend haha









I've been looking at Hertz A/V products. The woofers, mids and tweeters they are selling seem quite good. Atleast they have high sensitivity (92-93dB ([email protected])) which I like very much.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;15157453*
> Where are you going to use them? You gonna make some 2 or 3 way speakers?
> Here's one online calculator for boxes. Just gotta add the volume taken by mid/tweeter to the total volume of the box and adjust the dimensions accordingly.
> 
> I've been planning for a long time to make myself big tower speakers using car parts..
> YES YES I KNOW.. Don't start..
> 
> But something along the lines of 4x 6,5" + 4x 3" + 4x tweeters PER speaker.
> 
> And make pairs of them in parallel, 2x 6,5*/*2x 6,5*/*2x 3*/*2x 3*/*2x twtr*/*2x twtr
> So the resistance will be 2ohms per pair, then I don't whether it works like this way, but could I connect the pairs in series so it would in theory raise the resistance back to 4ohms? I'm not that experienced with diy audio so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clarified, 4x elements with 4ohm resistance -> put them parallel in pairs (2x + 2x elements) and resistance is 2ohms -> connect the two pairs in series and in theory resistance will rise back to 4ohms?
> Could it work like that or am I stupid?
> The crossover WILL be tricky to make for that but I think when I am actually doing this, I will be up for the challenge
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Google is my friend haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been looking at Hertz A/V products. The woofers, mids and tweeters they are selling seem quite good. Atleast they have high sensitivity (92-93dB ([email protected])) which I like very much.


That's a lot of drivers. Spend your money on a few better drivers rather than a ton of decent drivers. Honestly if you're doing that much I'd suggest a more simple 3 or 3.5 way. 6.5" woofers have their limits, and if you have a dedicated midrange you won't be needing the woofers to go very high. I think you'd get better results with less bigger woofers. Like single dome tweeter, dome mid, 10" woofer (or two 8's).

Depending on your situation I'd suggest you look for better drivers with low distortion rather than sensitive loud drivers. Unless you're trying to fill a small stadium with sound or you really really want to go deaf. IMO in the long run you'll enjoy insanely clear, clean sound over really loud sound that has a bunch of problems.









Google is your friend, as is diyaudio.com


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;15169250*
> That's a lot of drivers. Spend your money on a few better drivers rather than a ton of decent drivers. Honestly if you're doing that much I'd suggest a more simple 3 or 3.5 way. 6.5" woofers have their limits, and if you have a dedicated midrange you won't be needing the woofers to go very high. I think you'd get better results with less bigger woofers. Like single dome tweeter, dome mid, 10" woofer (or two 8's).
> 
> Depending on your situation I'd suggest you look for better drivers with low distortion rather than sensitive loud drivers. Unless you're trying to fill a small stadium with sound or you really really want to go deaf. IMO in the long run you'll enjoy insanely clear, clean sound over really loud sound that has a bunch of problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Google is your friend, as is diyaudio.com


Lol uhm I'm just thinking of those just for the laughs








Like that I would really spend ridiculous amount of time on some custom speakers when I can get better ones allready made









Sent from my HTC Desire running InsertCoin


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;15171494*
> Lol uhm I'm just thinking of those just for the laughs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like that I would really spend ridiculous amount of time on some custom speakers when I can get better ones all ready made
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire running InsertCoin


i find it a lot more satisfying making your own designing and making your own speakers. so far most of the ones i have made have been under $230 american and a lot of that was for tools that i needed to buy witch ad up fast. they sound better then any speaker in the $500 range easily and knowing i made them makes it even better. i feel that anyone that would say what you just said is ether lazy, ignorant, or just don't have the tools to do it.


----------



## DaGoat

How come I haven't noticed this club before?

So I produced music before and that's why I have some monitors. I stopped producing (for the moment...) so now I don't use my monitors for mixing - obviously - but as a main sound system. I remain an audiophile









So here's my sound system of the moment: just a pair of Prodipe Pro8 and a Pro10S Subwoofer.

Cheap little speakers but hey, you can't beat them at this price point. I'm actually totally amazed by the sound these suckers are able to produce.




























May I join PLZPLZ?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500;15157165*
> You'll just have to wait and see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Here's the specs according to partsexpress...
> 
> These weren't my original plan. For $100 each I wouldn't get them, however for $60...


Those are some pretty nice specs! Mind sending me a link to the parts themselves?


----------



## macca_dj

Hello
Could I join the members list Please ?

Cerwin Vega
VS-120
VS-150
MX-250


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1;15179908*
> Those are some pretty nice specs! Mind sending me a link to the parts themselves?


Link

Graphs here

I haven't even put them in any kind of enclosure yet but I can tell you the mids sound pretty darn clear.


----------



## ChaosAD

Are the Audioengines A5 much better than the A2 to justify the price difference? I can find A2 199euro and A5 369euro. Do i also need N22 amplifier and S8 sub with them?


----------



## ljason8eg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD;15185048*
> Are the Audioengines A5 much better than the A2 to justify the price difference? I can find A2 199euro and A5 369euro. Do i also need N22 amplifier and S8 sub with them?


The A5s will have a lot better bass response. A 5" midrange driver is a nice size while the A2s have a much smaller driver.

You don't need an amplifier for the A5s. They are powered. Simply plug and play. You might want a sub if you want more bass response. I'd try out the A5s without one, then decide.


----------



## ChaosAD

Thanx for the quick answer. So do you think the price/performance ir right or do i have a better choice in the 350-400e price range?


----------



## NuclearCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChaosAD;15185112*
> Thanx for the quick answer. So do you think the price/performance ir right or do i have a better choice in the 350-400e price range?


For that money you could check out Swan M200MkIII, though choosing to build with a receiver might not be a bad idea for your budget.


----------



## friend'scatdied

Sign me up. A pair of Anthony Gallo Acoustics Reference Strada.










Hooked up to a Peachtree Audio Nova, fed by a MacBook Air 13" 2011 running iTunes with Amarra. Not pictured: SVS SB12-Plus, currently in my living room (not sure what to do with it).

Incredible detail and resolution comparable to my JH13s. Really wide soundstage too. Makes my acoustically-poor cramped college apartment double tolerable..


----------



## yoyo711

I'm getting the Polk Audio Monitor30 Series II Two-Way Bookshelf for $70.00
I have Polk Audio RM 7 Satellite B High performance Satellite Speake and sony Receiver(550w) and the woofer.
Which is 4.1 system is good ?? OR do i need to get other Speaker(mid) for make 5.1 system ??

Please let me know

Thanks

This is what happen I had 5 years old sound system(2.1) I want to upgrade to Logitech Speaker System Z523 but i did not like the sound. so I return the item.
I bought the sony receiver(550w) from (CL) Polk Audio RM 7 Satellite B High performance Satellite Speaker for 120.00 all together
and Just got the I Just got the Polk Audio Monitor30 Series II Two-Way Bookshelf for $70.00.
I had the woofer so total cost me 190.00 is good ??

Thanks again


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoyo711;15266105*
> I'm getting the Polk Audio Monitor30 Series II Two-Way Bookshelf for $70.00
> I have Polk Audio RM 7 Satellite B High performance Satellite Speake and sony Receiver(550w) and the woofer.
> Which is 4.1 system is good ?? OR do i need to get other Speaker(mid) for make 5.1 system ??
> 
> Please let me know
> 
> Thanks
> 
> This is what happen I had 5 years old sound system(2.1) I want to upgrade to Logitech Speaker System Z523 but i did not like the sound. so I return the item.
> I bought the sony receiver(550w) from (CL) Polk Audio RM 7 Satellite B High performance Satellite Speaker for 120.00 all together
> and Just got the I Just got the Polk Audio Monitor30 Series II Two-Way Bookshelf for $70.00.
> I had the woofer so total cost me 190.00 is good ??
> 
> Thanks again


$190 is pretty cheap.

My buddy has the Monitor40's on his desk, he seems to enjoy them. They work much better with a sub.


----------



## Mygaffer

Hey guys, I just bought a new amp and wanted to show it off. I bought the Marantz SR7400, it was first released in 2003 and is a great amp. My old receiver wasn't up to the task of driving my Tower II's, the Marantz is 105 watts per channel. Sounds great.










The best part of course is that I paid $67 for it. If you buy used you can put together a killer system for very little money.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer;15269325*
> Hey guys, I just bought a new amp and wanted to show it off. I bought the Marantz SR7400, it was first released in 2003 and is a great amp. My old receiver wasn't up to the task of driving my Tower II's, the Marantz is 105 watts per channel. Sounds great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The best part of course is that I paid $67 for it. If you buy used you can put together a killer system for very little money.


tell me where did you get this Marantz SR7400 for $67? dang yu did got a nice deal


----------



## FearSC549

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer;15269325*
> Hey guys, I just bought a new amp and wanted to show it off. I bought the Marantz SR7400, it was first released in 2003 and is a great amp. My old receiver wasn't up to the task of driving my Tower II's, the Marantz is 105 watts per channel. Sounds great.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The best part of course is that I paid $67 for it. If you buy used you can put together a killer system for very little money.


$67?? wth


----------



## DaGoat

Just received my Asus Essence STX soundcard. Boy it's a hell of a card, I'm actually amazed by the sound coming from this thing. Really precise and beautiful, and the op-amps are so powerful I have to turn my speakers to -26db and lower the volume of the card at minimum. Wow. I definitely recommend it.

Can't wait to have my new speakers to test it further and see if I can give it the "true - audiophile - quality" label but I'm pretty confident about this.

While I'm on this subject, I'm hesitating between a pair of KRK VXR8 and a pair of Adam A7X / A8X. Is there anyone who can help me out choosing between the two brands?
For the moment I stopped producing music, so primary use will be listening to music (rock, electro), so it's not a big deal if the speakers are not hyper - neutral but _a little bit_ flattering (not too much).

On a side note, is the OP (user named Aura) still on this thread? He never responded to me and didn't add me in the club so I don't know much of what's going on









thanks


----------



## gorb

i would definitely go with adams over krks...


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t;15269771*
> tell me where did you get this Marantz SR7400 for $67? dang yu did got a nice deal


I wrote up a small thread with my deals:
http://www.overclock.net/sound-cards-computer-audio/1140002-looking-amp-speakers-budget.html#post15277920


----------



## darthspartan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darthspartan;7601401*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darthspartan;6428773*
> O why not ok here's what i run.
> 
> 2 carvin trx cabs with 2x15s and one 2in horn. 1000 watts each
> 2 carvin trs powered 18s 700watts each
> 2 carvin folded 18s 1000 watts each
> 2 carvin mid cabs 2x 10in in each 1000watts
> 4 carvin high Dispersion Radial High Frequency Horns 500 watts each
> 
> Mixer Yamaha O2R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey ive doubled the size of my system since i posted now i also have
> 
> 2 carvin double 18s 3200 watts each
> 2 more trx's at 1000 each
> 
> well not perfectly double theres other stuff like monitors i don't mention. old wattage 8400 new 16800. Now i need 6 20A 110v circuits to set up or 2 50A 220v circuits:gunner:
> 
> Just make it Lots of Carvin times 2
> 
> Chipp hows the mackie amp doing
Click to expand...

Figure its time to update my list since my system has changed a bit since i posted this. Not a whole lot of new gear but configuration has changed sine i decided to park my gear and open a venue.

So now its the 2in horns on top of the TRX cab's with the front and folded 18s This pic is kinda old we have 4 Par 64 LED cans up now to go with the other lights.



I have my amps in the back room with a 120amp power drop. The mackie drives the folded 18s.



The top two DMC2000s are bridged and drive the TRX215 and 115 on each side. The DCM2500 drives the 2in Horns on top and the last amp the DCM2570 drives the front loaded double 18s.



And finally we have my Front of House Gear The presonus studiolive 16.4.2 and its PC and the pc that runs lights. My outboard rack is not really in the pic but there's just FX and gates,comp,EQ in there.


----------



## i-[BuFF]




----------



## spice003

man those denon speakers look nice, how do they sound?


----------



## Deano12345

Well in the two weeks since I've been here, I've upgraded my amp and speakers (the joys of employment eh ?







)

Now rocking a Denon M38 and a pair of Mourdant-Short Aviano 1's









Actually, speaking of my speakers, I've never seen someone on a forum with another set of 'em. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong places though haha.

Future plans are...errr... I dunno what to get next







. I've been meaning to get a new soundcard, so probably that !

Edit : Picturrrr !


----------



## manoy385

Just got the new Audioengine A5+ to replace my Swan M10.


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb;15276796*
> i would definitely go with adams over krks...


Thanks, that's basically what everyone tells me. But I know someone who told me that they are fantastic but quite fragile: he killed a pair by giving it 30Hz, apprently, while they're indeed capable of giving very low frequencies, they can't handle much anything below 40Hz - quite fragile.

Also, I need a sub to complete my setup. My room is too big for me to appreciate good bass with a pair of 8" monitors. My seller keeps insisting that I don't need a sub but I'm quite dubious about it; as great as they are, I don't see how a pair of 8" speakers can match a system with a 10" or 12" woofer in a big case.

And there is not a subwoofer in Adam's line of products, at least not that I can afford, that's why I thought about a pair of VXT8 + a KRK sub. But if anyone can help me on this... Thanks?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaGoat;15329923*
> Thanks, that's basically what everyone tells me. But I know someone who told me that they are fantastic but quite fragile: he killed a pair by giving it 30Hz, apprently, while they're indeed capable of giving very low frequencies, they can't handle much anything below 40Hz - quite fragile.
> 
> Also, I need a sub to complete my setup. My room is too big for me to appreciate good bass with a pair of 8" monitors. My seller keeps insisting that I don't need a sub but I'm quite dubious about it; as great as they are, I don't see how a pair of 8" speakers can match a system with a 10" or 12" woofer in a big case.
> 
> And there is not a subwoofer in Adam's line of products, at least not that I can afford, that's why I thought about a pair of VXT8 + a KRK sub. But if anyone can help me on this... Thanks?


Personally, I recommend you at least try it. I've got two 8" in my bookshelf's and they're pretty much perfect. The only time I even use the sub is if I want to play something really loud (or get far below 30Hz - these speakers bottom out at 28Hz)


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1;15330985*
> Personally, I recommend you at least try it. I've got two 8" in my bookshelf's and they're pretty much perfect. The only time I even use the sub is if I want to play something really loud (or get far below 30Hz - these speakers bottom out at 28Hz)


Well in my room I have 2x 8" + 1 10" sub and I just couldn't do without the subwoofer. Granted, these are Prodipe speakers, but they are not so bad and the 8" boomer indeed delivers bass - I cut around 80Hz. Now OK, I'm pretty sure a pair of 8" Adam would kick my 8" Prodipe not only, of course, in quality, but in efficiency as well, but I stay dubious on the fact that just a pair of 8" is sufficient to really _feel_ the thump of 40 - 50Hz ( I mean open windows are shaking at these feequencies...). As I said, it may be precise enough for strict monitoring usage, that if you respect the 60° rule and if you position well, etc... But I will use them as "Hi-Fi" speakers as well.

Then again, I don't have the opportunity to listen to them and compare both models, and evenif I had , I would have to compare all of them _in my room_.

But thanks, another voice is noted in favor of Adam. I'm just wondering what's so great about these speakerss. KRK rockit series might be cheap but the VXT series have a quite solid reputation...

Bottom line, are Adam speakers superior monitor speakers _only_ or can I use them to listen to CDs as well?


----------



## MarvinDessica

Figured I might as well post here instead of making yet another thread.

I'm looking for 2.0/2.1 speaker system for around 90-120 dollars. I know my cheapo 40 dollar speakers have seen an update in the quality of sound (Seriously, my Massive Attack albums sound brand new!) but I know I'm missing out and I figure with the cheap price of that sound card this is a good a time as any.

I was thinking about the M-Audio Studiophile AV 40 or the Corsair SP2200. Either way I just want to game and listen to music. I don't mind if their ugly, I just want functionality.

Also, I KNOW that headphones are a better fit for this budget when you look at the serious amount of headphones you can get in this range. But headphones give me earaches and infections, have yet to find a pair that hasn't, open or closed. So...2.1 or 2.0 is good with me.


----------



## Deano12345

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*


Figured I might as well post here instead of making yet another thread.

I'm looking for 2.0/2.1 speaker system for around 90-120 dollars. I know my cheapo 40 dollar speakers have seen an update in the quality of sound (Seriously, my Massive Attack albums sound brand new!) but I know I'm missing out and I figure with the cheap price of that sound card this is a good a time as any.

I was thinking about the M-Audio Studiophile AV 40 or the Corsair SP2200. Either way I just want to game and listen to music. I don't mind if their ugly, I just want functionality.

Also, I KNOW that headphones are a better fit for this budget when you look at the serious amount of headphones you can get in this range. But headphones give me earaches and infections, have yet to find a pair that hasn't, open or closed. So...2.1 or 2.0 is good with me.


Since your in the states, I'd say take a look at the Dayton Audio stuff, it seems to be highly rated for systems on a budget. On your budget, I'd go with

http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php...aker-pair.html

http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php...er-15-wpc.html

The M40's are pretty good too though !


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Deano12345*


Since your in the states, I'd say take a look at the Dayton Audio stuff, it seems to be highly rated for systems on a budget. On your budget, I'd go with

http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php...aker-pair.html

http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php...er-15-wpc.html

The M40's are pretty good too though !


Not bad, will definitely look into those. Man that amp is more expensive than the speakers, lol! But I'd grab this up, reviews seem to love em.

Will see what others have to say/offer before I plunge though.


----------



## SlyFox

Really not a bad setup for the cash. The only other option I'd recommend is look for used speakers/receiver on craiglist. That'd probably be the best bang for buck.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica;15352956*
> Not bad, will definitely look into those. Man that amp is more expensive than the speakers, lol! But I'd grab this up, reviews seem to love em.
> 
> Will see what others have to say/offer before I plunge though.


Speakers are $30:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-652

Can get another amp which uses the exact same Tripath TA2020 T-amp for WAY cheaper, too (read: $25):
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=310-300
(yes, I have one, so does one of my friends. Sounds _amazing_ and has worked solidly for over 6 months.)

So for less than $60 + shipping, you get a really nice setup!

Or, if you want more power for those speakers:
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-383


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1;15357852*
> Speakers are $30:
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-652
> 
> Can get another amp which uses the exact same Tripath TA2020 T-amp for WAY cheaper, too (read: $25):
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=310-300
> (yes, I have one, so does one of my friends. Sounds _amazing_ and has worked solidly for over 6 months.)
> 
> So for less than $60 + shipping, you get a really nice setup!
> 
> Or, if you want more power for those speakers:
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-383


Not bad at all. I'd definitely be ordering from them. Thanks, +rep for everyone.


----------



## DaGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*


Personally, I recommend you at least try it. I've got two 8" in my bookshelf's and they're pretty much perfect. The only time I even use the sub is if I want to play something really loud (or get far below 30Hz - these speakers bottom out at 28Hz)


May I ask what are your 8" speakers?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *DaGoat*


May I ask what are your 8" speakers?


Some quite old JBL D38's.

When I got em, I did a bit of research and found a lot of people complaining about their lack of low end. They got pretty low, around 34Hz before you could hear buffeting. I wanted to have the option of running them in 2-ch so I added a 3" flared port tube into their existing port. Talk about a major change... they get down to about 29-28Hz before you get buffeting.

Not to mention that they sound _fantastic_, ESPECIALLY considering that they're using a 2" paper tweeter, 4" paper mid and a not-so-extendable 8" paper woofer. Each speaker handles 50W RMS easily without a low pass crossover.


----------



## Danker16

Dayton BR-1S speaker Kit from Parts Xpress!

Took me about 4 hours to put them together!


----------



## bobfig

now its time to make a sub


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


now its time to make a sub










Yes!









What driver you planning on using? Oh please say a TC Sounds driver...I've been wanting to see one of those built for a while (and a youtube vid to show excursion).


----------



## bobfig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Yes!









What driver you planning on using? Oh please say a TC Sounds driver...I've been wanting to see one of those built for a while (and a youtube vid to show excursion).


hahah not me, comment was meant for Danker16

however if i could get some donations i would.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bobfig*


hahah not me, comment was meant for Danker16

however if i could get some donations i would.










Well SOMEBODY should put together a TC Sounds sub.







I want a pair of Epic 12's pretty badly, but just can't afford to power them right now. Would be pretty nice to have those for 7.2, one on either side of my TV.


----------



## Danker16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig;15385750*
> hahah not me, comment was meant for Danker16
> 
> however if i could get some donations i would.


that wont be for a while! good subs are too expensive


----------



## Deano12345

Just plugged my HD25's into the front of the amp. Oh my. To make a rude phrase into one that can be posted here, I'd have to say the sound out of them now has made me poop bricks. I love this M38


----------



## Neet_za

:O i see amps







i like amps








heres mine









mine, powering my AKG K240's aswell:








friends amp for the lulz theres 3, he lending the 3rd to someone iirc, it umm dips the power in the house when you turn them on... cant have aircon on and those two amps on at the sametime, the main just trip, forgot what they're called but yeah they're very expensive, using the term very litely


----------



## lagittaja

E: nevermind about that.
I just ordered the pair of Behringer B3030A's
I'll just use my pioneer av amp's zone2 out, run rca's from there to my active sub and let the sub handle the high/low pass things and then run the signal from my subs rca outs to behringers with rca - 1/4" cable.
Should be good, hopefully I'll get them not next week but the week after that.

Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running Cool3D AceS v3


----------



## pioneerisloud

I need tweeters guys. Anybody help please?

They're going into a pair of Pioneer CS-G305 towers. 2.5" mounting hole size, and 3.5" between the mounting holes center (diagonally). I can't find anything but a factory direct replacement.


----------



## gorb

If you can get factory tweeters, that's what you should get. They are designed to work with that cabinet and crossover.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *gorb*


If you can get factory tweeters, that's what you should get. They are designed to work with that cabinet and crossover.


Yeah, I was just hoping I could find ones that sounded a little better, like some nice dome tweeters or something.

Oh well, to the Pioneer Parts department I go!

Now to try to fix the dustcaps on the midranges.


----------



## hertz9753

I have two of this model.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hertz9753*


I have two of this model.


Too small. Yours looks to be 2 3/8" outside to outside screw holes. Mine are 2 5/8".


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*


Too small. Yours looks to be 2 3/8" outside to outside screw holes. Mine are 2 5/8".










Correct.


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud;15415187*
> I need tweeters guys. Anybody help please?
> 
> They're going into a pair of Pioneer CS-G305 towers. 2.5" mounting hole size, and 3.5" between the mounting holes center (diagonally). I can't find anything but a factory direct replacement.


hope this helps:

http://www.zaphaudio.com/tweetermishmash/


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*


E: nevermind about that.
I just ordered the pair of Behringer B3030A's
I'll just use my pioneer av amp's zone2 out, run rca's from there to my active sub and let the sub handle the high/low pass things and then run the signal from my subs rca outs to behringers with rca - 1/4" cable.
Should be good, hopefully I'll get them not next week but the week after that.

Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running Cool3D AceS v3


Hmm, can anyone say how the sound quality is with the wires being unbalanced ?

Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running Cool3D AceS v3


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*


Hmm, can anyone say how the sound quality is with the wires being unbalanced ?

Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running Cool3D AceS v3


Not as ideal a scenario, for sure, but probably not a ruining anything as long as the cable length is reasonably short. You won't get the "free gain" of a balanced system and you also lose the noise rejection of a balanced system - but both of these are less of a problem with a good source sending signal down the line. You'll want to keep that output hot, to ensure you get the best ratio of signal to noise coming into the speaker.


----------



## Broseidon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chipp*


Not as ideal a scenario, for sure, but probably not a ruining anything as long as the cable length is reasonably short. You won't get the "free gain" of a balanced system and you also lose the noise rejection of a balanced system - but both of these are less of a problem with a good source sending signal down the line. You'll want to keep that output hot, to ensure you get the best ratio of signal to noise coming into the speaker.


this - as long as your cables are under 10 feet in length (not exact, just a rough guess) then uneven lengths aren't really going to make a big difference (if any)


----------



## Chipp

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Broseidon*


this - as long as your cables are under 10 feet in length (not exact, just a rough guess) then uneven lengths aren't really going to make a big difference (if any)


Actually, though length does come into play, this situation was a little different. That could cause issues if the length difference was extreme, but...

Balanced cables refer to the connection being electrically balanced - that is, both the original signal and a 180-degree-out-of-phase version of it are present, along with a common ground between them. The biggest advantage to systems implemented with balanced interconnects is noise rejection. Since both your original signal and the flipped copy of it are traveling through the same space (or very near to each other, physically) they'll be likely to pick up the same noise/interference. At the end of the cable (the signals destination) you can once again invert the copy of your signal so you now have two copies of the same signal that are the same phase (but, since the noise was picked up out of phase, you've now got noise in phase and noise out of phase). Adding these two signals together not only provides that "free gain" I was talking about, but servers to add together two noise signals that are 180 degrees out of phase with eachother and totally cancel (or cancel as well as the un-balancing summing circuit can add things together).

It is the same general concept as intentionally hooking up two speakers, one of them with different wire polarity than the other - you can make all kinds of phase cancellations that really reduce the volume of what you're listening to. In a balanced system, that cancellation is just happening by design to any noise picked up along the cable, and with electricity rather than acoustics.


----------



## TUDJ

Got my new stands


















Poor quality smartphone pic unfortunately, I'll some better pictures when I have more time and had a tidy


----------



## Stanley Ipkiss

Can I Join?

Sorry for the Image Quality, my D40 broke so pissed!!

Anyways, two Polk Audio PSW125, Polk cs2 Center, Polk Flr Stnd L/R, Boston Rears L/R

Driven By an old Sony 100Watt x 5.2



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## lagittaja

Cancelled the order for the active monitors.
Ordered instead a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 10.2's.
Not gonna risk it with the monitors to receive monday quality pair and unbalanced cables and whatnot.
And they suit me much better, plus they end up being 175€ cheaper to get..
Finally done with the research and back & forth changing my mind about the speakers.
Sigh. Hopefully I get them by tuesday.
Ordered a pair of them with black finish. Dude called me ½ hour ago and said black's are coming 2½ weeks do you wanna get other colored. Thinked about it for a second and said rosewood. KK


----------



## Mygaffer

Hey, I just hooked up my first discrete amplifier! It seems to work well except the 12v isn't working.








It is a Niles SI-275, it sounds great. I am really happy with this setup.
Here is the rear:









Of course since I am all about great deals I'll have to tell you what I paid. Zero. One of my customers (computer repair) was moving out of state and got rid of a bunch of audio stuff, this was among them.

What do you guys think? Now I'll just have to get my Boston CR9 fixed, it has started cutting out. Might open it up myself and see if I can figure it out. I'm sure this will make them sing. For now I am running a pair of old Polkaudio Monitor Series II. I'll try and take a pic inside, it has a massive toroidal transformer and 4 large 10,000uf capacitors.


----------



## soloz2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tUDJ;15474537*
> Got my new stands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Poor quality smartphone pic unfortunately, I'll some better pictures when I have more time and had a tidy


nice


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;15486497*
> Cancelled the order for the active monitors.
> Ordered instead a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 10.2's.
> Not gonna risk it with the monitors to receive monday quality pair and unbalanced cables and whatnot.
> And they suit me much better, plus they end up being 175€ cheaper to get..
> Finally done with the research and back & forth changing my mind about the speakers.
> Sigh. Hopefully I get them by tuesday.
> Ordered a pair of them with black finish. Dude called me ½ hour ago and said black's are coming 2½ weeks do you wanna get other colored. Thinked about it for a second and said rosewood. KK


Oh shoot, they sent them today.
Oh well, I've already waited a month, what's another day more waiting.
I can't wait to get them







!


----------



## TUDJ

I've not heard the 10 series but if they're anything like the 9 series then you are in for a treat


----------



## Volvo

Do I qualify if I've got Swans M50W's? D:


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tUDJ*


I've not heard the 10 series but if they're anything like the 9 series then you are in for a treat










People who have upgraded from 9 series to 10 series have said that 10 series sounds much clearer and far from stuffy. (iirc)
I've personally listened to 10.1's earlier this year.
I was visiting my sisters place and we were driving around Tampere and by accident I saw HifiStudio17 store when we passed it. We went to a restaurant and had dinner and then I said geez let's go to the Hifi store








I went there 5 minutes before closing, just asked the salesman
"Do you have Wharfedale's Diamond speakers here which I could listen to?"
"Yeah sure we have 10.1's here, do you have any music with you?"
"Nah, this is a spontaneous visit so I don't even have my mp3 player with me







"
"Okay then, I have some AC/DC here, go and sit there and I'll play some of it."

And ooooh man did they sound good!
The difference between my previous speakers and the 10.1's was like NIGHT AND DAY. Seriously.
And my previous speakers were Olavi RÃ¤sÃ¤nen Cinemazound Pro








They were ugly, sounded not good enough after I heard the Wharfedale's, plus they were quite difficult to move and they were big.

I'll be expanding/upgrading my HT, and I think I'll also get my mom some better and SMALLER speakers to replace the humongous JWS GenExxa's
*I'll buy for myself some HD sound capable A/V amp with 7.2 channels
*Give my mom the current Pioneer VSX-519 I have and buy her a pair of Diamond 10.2's (probably)
*Get a center speaker from Wharfedale, 10.CC/CS/CM (idk)
*New front speakers from Wharfedale, 10.4/10.5/10.6/10.7 haven't really thought about it yet, and move the 10.2's to rear.
*Get 10.0's as side channels.
*And then I'll replace my current sub with pair of SVS cylinder subs. Probably PC12-NSD's. I'll give my mom the current sub if she wants it but I don't think she needs a sub









All that huge upgrade will happen when I finish my school, get a job and a good apartment.
I'll get the center speaker first, that might even happen before I finish from this school, it all depends on timing..
The rest I'll upgrade all with a big basoosh, save enough money and order them all at once








That's gonna be about 1100â‚¬ for subs, around 1-1Â½kâ‚¬ for the amp, 850-1300â‚¬ for the front/side/center channels.
Now when I think about it, sheesh huge load of money







3-4kâ‚¬ for those only, then add some thick rca cables and "few" meters of 4,5mm^2 wires and such. It could easily swell to almost 5kâ‚¬








Big plans but anything can change








But atleast when I get a job from my own field I don't think the part of saving the money is difficult, my paycheck will _begin_ from 2kâ‚¬/month








Then add bonuses, night shifts, overtime and so on and so on









PS. Lots of smilies


----------



## Jayce1971

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;15486497*
> Cancelled the order for the active monitors.
> Ordered instead a pair of Wharfedale Diamond 10.2's.
> Not gonna risk it with the monitors to receive monday quality pair and unbalanced cables and whatnot.
> And they suit me much better, plus they end up being 175€ cheaper to get..
> Finally done with the research and back & forth changing my mind about the speakers.
> Sigh. Hopefully I get them by tuesday.
> Ordered a pair of them with black finish. Dude called me ½ hour ago and said black's are coming 2½ weeks do you wanna get other colored. Thinked about it for a second and said rosewood. KK


I had a pair of Wharfedale W60's during college. With a discman running into a NAD 3240pe integrated amp to power em. Very well built for 1960's audio. The hard dome tweets and cone mids had 3lb magnets on 'em. Even had a "Queen's Endorsement" or something similar...
Still have the crossovers somewhere... They were awsome!


----------



## lagittaja

They are here !!!








I'll post some more pics when I have finished cleaning my desk to fit these monsters on my desk








I was completely surprised by their size, they looked so small on the picture








But damn these sound good


----------



## TUDJ

Nice









Be sure to isolate them from your desk, I use these and they work a treat.


----------



## lagittaja

Yeah, couldn't find any isopads from here (Finland market...) so gotta look around for something to isolate them.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*


Yeah, couldn't find any isopads from here (Finland market...) so gotta look around for something to isolate them.


Half squash balls are supposedly good for isolation.


----------



## lagittaja

I'm surprised how well my Audio Pro sub B1.20 blends in with the 10.2's.
I have the 10.2's set as small, crossover is at 80Hz and I bi-wired them just for the heck of it, had extra cable so why not.
We'll see after 20-30h of listening what's my final verdict of these but so far I like them.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?f...3&l=0d0f30ef6e


----------



## DiNet

Acoustic Energy NeoV2 Three
KRK 10s Subwoofer
2001 Diamond 8 Series surround
harman/kardon AVR 130







My next step is acoustic panels and Marantz SR7005 receiver.

Would be nice to read on your experience with acoustic panels...

And yes it is OCN fire sticker on receiver


----------



## Shane1244

How is that little sub? I've been thinking about getting it along with with some BX5a's


----------



## DiNet

wrong


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:



Originally Posted by *soloz2*


nice










Tonight has been my first chance to have a listen since getting the stands. I forgot how much difference they make, the sound has opened up quite a lot and the bass is sublime for a pair of bookshelfs, I thought I'd heard all my Quads had to offer but I was wrong


----------



## lagittaja

These Wharfe's are improving every hour I'm listening to them, current 20h behind.
At first the bass was extremely overpowering, had to set the "bass" setting from my Pioneer to -6 and I still wanted to lower it







Now I can raise it -4
We'll see what happens in the next 30-50h


----------



## Deano12345

Bought an X-Fi Ti. HD to finish off my setup but forgot to buy a dual phono cable that I needed, so I've rigged it up to the headphone port on the card. It still sounds way better than my old card but I'd say having it connected the way I do isn't making the most of it. Oops !


----------



## MarvinDessica

Hey hey, a few months ago I asked for some advice.

http://www.overclock.net/t/458907/ocn-speaker-club/2490#post_15356200

Well tl;dr I didn't get anything and ended up trading my card. Thursday I'm getting at least 150 dollars.

So shoot me some recommendations fellas. I'm pretty much open, having absolutely NO bass is killing me.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I stand by my recommendation from before. You can't go wrong with that.


----------



## MarvinDessica

PONY BRAH! Though the one that doesn't give me chills when he post









What about a good subwoofer? I see plenty on the website and there is also this I think would be great with a subwoofer added on.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-650&FTR=amp%20speaker%20bundle


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> PONY BRAH! Though the one that doesn't give me chills when he post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What about a good subwoofer? I see plenty on the website and there is also this I think would be great with a subwoofer added on.
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-650&FTR=amp%20speaker%20bundle


Haha yeah I try to keep my creepy level low whenever it's possible.









That combo you just posted is pretty fantastic! As far as a sub, well, it's really hard to honestly think of something in that price range. You may be able to build your own, though! PE has a million 8, 10, and 12" drivers and several plate amps that would definitely suit your needs and work very well with your other Dayton accessories. It all depends on if you feel like building stuff.

The only pre-manufactured subwoofers I could really recommend would be either the Dayton Sub120 or the BIC F12. Both of which, when combined with your speaker setup, unfortunately blow the $150 budget.


----------



## MarvinDessica

I'm curious about possibly building one...think I could add you to steam?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> I'm curious about possibly building one...think I could add you to steam?


Sure thing. Though I won't be on for long - have work in the AM.
http://steamcommunity.com/id/xyrotr1

For building, I recommend you look into building a horn-loaded enclosure. Even a vastly underpowered driver/amplifier can literally shake your walls.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Got lots of ideas, still taking more for bookshelf+amp.


----------



## bobfig

well building a sub is always fun but may take a little planning. a horn enclosure can have good benefits but is a lot more complicated then just a ported one. if you were to go pre built the ones that Xyro recommended are good but from what i hear the dayton 10" is better then the 12" in quality. for a bed room all you need is a 10" ported sub. i wouldn't mind helping you design one if you need help.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> well building a sub is always fun but may take a little planning. a horn enclosure can have good benefits but is a lot more complicated then just a ported one. if you were to go pre built the ones that Xyro recommended are good but from what i hear the dayton 10" is better then the 12" in quality. for a bed room all you need is a 10" ported sub. i wouldn't mind helping you design one if you need help.


Actually the new line of Dayton subs, the SUB1000 and SUB1200 look to be much better in terms of excursion at least. That should help them both reach a little lower than their older counterparts. Don't quote me on that....just going off the specs and how they appear to be setup. I haven't tested them yet myself, but I would happily say that they look to be well worth the money over the older models.

Building a sub absolutely can be fun. But you're looking at around $125 or so for the plate amp, say $100+ for a good driver, plus the enclosure building materials and time to plan it and build it. If budget is a concern, grabbing a pre built from Dayton would be the way to go.


----------



## Xyro TR1

For reference, I steered him towards this combination:

BIC DV62si
http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-DV62si-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00006JPDI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1324314333&sr=1-1

Dayton DTA-100
http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-DTA-100a-Class-T-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B004JK8BDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1324314382&sr=1-2

43Hz bottom end on those speakers pretty much eliminates the need for a sub in most listening environments, especially in an apartment.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> For reference, I steered him towards this combination:
> 
> BIC DV62si
> http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-DV62si-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00006JPDI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1324314333&sr=1-1
> 
> Dayton DTA-100
> http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-DTA-100a-Class-T-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B004JK8BDK/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1324314382&sr=1-2
> 
> 43Hz bottom end on those speakers pretty much eliminates the need for a sub in most listening environments, especially in an apartment.


I support this, assuming space is a concern and budget.


----------



## axipher

Here's my entry










From my Asus Xonar DG
Yamaha R-S300 Stereo Receiver
2x JL-Audio C2-690tx (6" x 9" 3-way 4 ohm)
Klipsch Sub 6 (Downward facing 6" Cone)


----------



## Xyro TR1

My amp is dying again! :C

This is amp #2, the first died in the same way. Lose more and more of the left channel, switch balance knob over to compensate, begin getting lots of clipping.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> My amp is dying again! :C
> 
> This is amp #2, the first died in the same way. Lose more and more of the left channel, switch balance knob over to compensate, begin getting lots of clipping.


I actually just bought this to replace my old Hitachi Stereo amp that lost it's left channel.


----------



## Xyro TR1

I must say, to be fair, I definitely use it a lot. There are definitely several hour stints of near clip-level playback @4Ohm, so...

My JL Audio car amps seem to hold up to that pretty well, tho!


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> I must say, to be fair, I definitely use it a lot. There are definitely several hour stints of near clip-level playback @4Ohm, so...
> 
> My JL Audio car amps seem to hold up to that pretty well, tho!


The JL Speakers I'm running now came out of my car and were being powered by a 4-channel Alpine amp, they've since been replaced with all Type-R's, 500 W mono amp and Type-R 10" deep Sub.

So the JL's needed a new home, so they sit as my computer speakers now









My HTPC has 2 Pro-Audio Monitors hooked up alongside a Klipsch HD300 5.1 Satelite speaker set and a Dahlquist 350 W 8.5" Sub all connected to a Denon 2808 7.1 AVR.


----------



## hertz9753

Polk LSi 9's, sorry about the dog hair.


----------



## MarvinDessica

So I've narrowed my choices down and set my budget considering my apartment (At-least for the next year and a half for school,







)

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Cerwin-Vega!+-+2.0+Powered+Desktop+Speaker+(2-Piece)/2631008.p?skuId=2631008&productCategoryId=pcmcat152200050011&id=1218341074734

Or I might just order the dayton/amp combo for 60 dollars. I've only seen two official reviews of the CV's and they love them. Still, as I'm just getting into audio I want to know some of your opinions since any opinions on the CV forum seem to be under lock and key registration.


----------



## drjoey1500




----------



## GrizzleBoy

In the space of a month, I've gone from a cruddy 5.1 setup, to a set of rigged up Sanyo mini hifi speakers, to my dads 1970s Wharfedale Linton 3XP speakers













I wanted some studio monitors, but until he starts moaning and asks for them back, I think they'll be staying a little while ¬_¬


----------



## pioneerisloud

Just ordered more B652's (2 pairs), a Lepai TA2020, and some stands.







I'm excited.


----------



## atarione

i am interested in y'alls club ....do you have pamphlets and a newsletter?

anyways

two rigs

HTPC: (HDMI AMD HD4550) Pioneer VSX-516V-K w/ Polk M50s (F L/R) Polk CS1 (C) M30s (Surround L/R) and Polk PSW10 sub

desktop: Xonar DG - SMSL SA-S3 t-amp and Polk T15 bookshelf speakers (Polk PSW10 sub coming soon).


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> These Wharfe's are improving every hour I'm listening to them, current 20h behind.
> At first the bass was extremely overpowering, had to set the "bass" setting from my Pioneer to -6 and I still wanted to lower it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I can raise it -4
> We'll see what happens in the next 30-50h


And after countless hours of listening to all different kinds of music (which I normally do..) and watching movies and tv series, I can now say I do not regret a single bit in buying these.
I absolutely love them!

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## tr8rjohnk

OK, about to pull the trigger on the following and any suggestions would be great.

Just speakers right now (still working out the sub and receiver). The whole shebang will cost $500 shipped:

Polk Monitor60 - F/L and F/R $129 each
Polk CS2 - Center $109
Polk Monitor40 - R/L and R/R $129 pair
May add another set of Monitor 40's later for 7.1 but this is all for now.

The room is a little over 25 feet by 25 feet (approx 8.5 meters by 8.5 meters). All walls and floor are concrete (if this makes a difference).

The receiver I'm looking at is the Onkyo HT-RC360 for about $350 (not firm on this yet) and the sub I was considering was either the Polk PSW505 ~$225, the Bic F12 ~$190 or (this next one is probably just a pipe dream as its a bit out of budget but...) the Definitive Technology ProSub 1000 at ~$500

Well, what does everyone have to say; thanks.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> OK, about to pull the trigger on the following and any suggestions would be great.
> 
> Just speakers right now (still working out the sub and receiver). The whole shebang will cost $500 shipped:
> 
> Polk Monitor60 - F/L and F/R $129 each
> Polk CS2 - Center $109
> Polk Monitor40 - R/L and R/R $129 pair
> May add another set of Monitor 40's later for 7.1 but this is all for now.
> 
> The room is a little over 25 feet by 25 feet (approx 8.5 meters by 8.5 meters). All walls and floor are concrete (if this makes a difference).
> 
> The receiver I'm looking at is the Onkyo HT-RC360 for about $350 (not firm on this yet) and the sub I was considering was either the Polk PSW505 ~$225, the Bic F12 ~$190 or (this next one is probably just a pipe dream as its a bit out of budget but...) the Definitive Technology ProSub 1000 at ~$500
> 
> Well, what does everyone have to say; thanks.


Do it! Pull the tirgger now! Those are great sales on those Polk speakers.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Do it! Pull the tirgger now! Those are great sales on those Polk speakers.


Fantastic, thanks! No substitutions then.

What do you think of the receiver and subs?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Do it! Pull the tirgger now! Those are great sales on those Polk speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fantastic, thanks! No substitutions then.
> 
> What do you think of the receiver and subs?
Click to expand...

All solid choices.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

I did it!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> Polk Monitor60 - F/L and F/R $129 each
> Polk CS2 - Center $109
> Polk Monitor40 - R/L and R/R $129 pair


Also, I picked up the rest of the setup as well.

Subwoofer: Definitive Technology PS800 $259 open box at Electronics Expo (really happy with the price on this)

Receiver: Onkyo HT-RC360 $299 at PC Richard


----------



## lagittaja

Congrats on the new setup dude :thumbup:
Share some pics when you get them set up









Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Congrats on the new setup dude :thumbup:
> Share some pics when you get them set up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


Will do for sure.

Lol, my wife thinks I'm nuts for not wanting to watch our Sunday night shows - I'm trying to get her to wait until we get everything in and connected on Tuesday.

EDIT: By the way, is 16 gauge speaker wire going to do the trick or should I use 14 gauge?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Congrats on the new setup dude :thumbup:
> Share some pics when you get them set up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Will do for sure.
> 
> Lol, my wife thinks I'm nuts for not wanting to watch our Sunday night shows - I'm trying to get her to wait until we get everything in and connected on Tuesday.
> 
> EDIT: By the way, is 16 gauge speaker wire going to do the trick or should I use 14 gauge?
Click to expand...

16 gauge will WORK. If you can do 14 gauge, it should do better though (especially for the longer runs to your surround speakers).


----------



## lagittaja

I have been thinking about getting better subwoofer and a center for a while.
Then I came up with the idea of repurposing these GenExxa GX1000 towers I have at my moms. Both of them have one tweeter, one mid range and two 10" woofers.
I think I have posted a pic of them sometime last year.

I refined the idea finally.
I need floorstands for my wharfedales anyway so I could make two enclosures that look like stands.
It would be one woofer in a closed enclosure with dimensions of 8.8" wide, ~14" deep and ~34.5" tall, also for material I was thinking 0.4" thick mdf or 0.3" thick birch plywood if the budget allows.

The width is perfect to match the diamond 10.2's width, height is enough for the wharfe's tweeters to be at ear level and depth is enough for the internal volume of the enclosure to be just about right for the element to be in a closed environment.
The element would be mounted on the bottom of the box on the side.

The volume in my enclosure idea is based on the original ported enclosures, which are around 8 cubic feet per speaker so that's 4 per woofer and divide that in half for closed box








Remember these are from the mid 90's so I don't know if there even exists any specifications for the elements. I could always contact the manufacturer though









Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I have been thinking about getting better subwoofer and a center for a while.
> Then I came up with the idea of repurposing these GenExxa GX1000 towers I have at my moms. Both of them have one tweeter, one mid range and two 10" woofers.
> I think I have posted a pic of them sometime last year.
> I refined the idea finally.
> I need floorstands for my wharfedales anyway so I could make two enclosures that look like stands.
> It would be one woofer in a closed enclosure with dimensions of 8.8" wide, ~14" deep and ~34.5" tall, also for material I was thinking 0.4" thick mdf or 0.3" thick birch plywood if the budget allows.
> The width is perfect to match the diamond 10.2's width, height is enough for the wharfe's tweeters to be at ear level and depth is enough for the internal volume of the enclosure to be just about right for the element to be in a closed environment.
> The element would be mounted on the bottom of the box on the side.
> The volume in my enclosure idea is based on the original ported enclosures, which are around 8 cubic feet per speaker so that's 4 per woofer and divide that in half for closed box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember these are from the mid 90's so I don't know if there even exists any specifications for the elements. I could always contact the manufacturer though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


How low do the original speakers go? TBH i think you're better off just buying one new driver. Then you can design it properly. It would probably sound better too. If you're going to go to all that trouble you might as well spend the extra to get a good driver, unless the original towers had really good bass.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I have been thinking about getting better subwoofer and a center for a while.
> Then I came up with the idea of repurposing these GenExxa GX1000 towers I have at my moms. Both of them have one tweeter, one mid range and two 10" woofers.
> I think I have posted a pic of them sometime last year.
> I refined the idea finally.
> I need floorstands for my wharfedales anyway so I could make two enclosures that look like stands.
> It would be one woofer in a closed enclosure with dimensions of 8.8" wide, ~14" deep and ~34.5" tall, also for material I was thinking 0.4" thick mdf or 0.3" thick birch plywood if the budget allows.
> The width is perfect to match the diamond 10.2's width, height is enough for the wharfe's tweeters to be at ear level and depth is enough for the internal volume of the enclosure to be just about right for the element to be in a closed environment.
> The element would be mounted on the bottom of the box on the side.
> The volume in my enclosure idea is based on the original ported enclosures, which are around 8 cubic feet per speaker so that's 4 per woofer and divide that in half for closed box
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remember these are from the mid 90's so I don't know if there even exists any specifications for the elements. I could always contact the manufacturer though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> How low do the original speakers go? TBH i think you're better off just buying one new driver. Then you can design it properly. It would probably sound better too. If you're going to go to all that trouble you might as well spend the extra to get a good driver, unless the original towers had really good bass.
Click to expand...

Quite low imo.
http://www.genexxa.se/
There's the link to GX1000 on the left side.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Quite low imo.
> http://www.genexxa.se/
> There's the link to GX1000 on the left side.
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


Those look really, really nice.


----------



## lagittaja

Those are newer "year model" of the gx1000's than mine are.
Bass is rather good considering they're underpowered currently but otherwise they are nowhere near my wharfes sound quality, staging and other-terms-I-can't-for-the-life-of-me-ever-remember-in-english.
Oh and the size of them is interesting..

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## GrizzleBoy

Just got some of these on ebay.







Pioneer S-DJ08.

Monitors with four inputs (2 RCA, 1 TRS, 1 XLR), EQ knobs and a remote control unit that can turn on/off, change source and switch the EQ in and out.

I was in the market for some monitors for a combination of listening, gaming and producing so these were quite attractive to me.

Being able to go from a flat/reference sound to a "doctored"/"coloured" sound of my preference for listening/gaming at the press of a button eliminates all the faffing about with switches and knobs on the back of the monitors that I'd have to be doing otherwise.

Going from a cheapish 5.1 homr cinema setup, to very cheap 2.0 setup with rigged up mini hifi speakes, to my dads 1970 wharfedales, to these, in the space of about a month.......I think I'm done with speakers for now.

Just have to wonder if my Edirol UA-25 audio interface is doing them any justice........it is quite dated tbh isn't it?


----------



## axipher

So I'm part-way through building a new desk, the main reason was I wanted landscape Eyefinity at eye level over top of my speakers so I could move them back a little and also have my amp right in front of my fir direct control over the tone. Overall my setup is the same aside from the new speakers that I put behind my screen to give me effectively 2 pairs of woofers and 4 pairs of tweeters along with the sub. The added speakers make a huge difference in classical music or any song with heavy vocals and brass instruments.

Let me know if you have any recommendations on speaker/sub positioning, as it stands, the difference between left and right channels is amazing. Easier to differentiate the two then my home theater or my car setup.

Entire setup (New desk)









AMP (Still Yahama R-S300)









Front Speakers (JL-audio C2-690)









Rear Speakers (Pioneer TS-A6874S)









Sub (Klipsch 100)


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Those are newer "year model" of the gx1000's than mine are.
> Bass is rather good considering they're underpowered currently but otherwise they are nowhere near my wharfes sound quality, staging and other-terms-I-can't-for-the-life-of-me-ever-remember-in-english.
> Oh and the size of them is interesting..
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


IDK but your avatar is hilarious







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> So I'm part-way through building a new desk, the main reason was I wanted landscape Eyefinity at eye level over top of my speakers so I could move them back a little and also have my amp right in front of my fir direct control over the tone. Overall my setup is the same aside from the new speakers that I put behind my screen to give me effectively 2 pairs of woofers and 4 pairs of tweeters along with the sub. The added speakers make a huge difference in classical music or any song with heavy vocals and brass instruments.
> Let me know if you have any recommendations on speaker/sub positioning, as it stands, the difference between left and right channels is amazing. Easier to differentiate the two then my home theater or my car setup.
> Entire setup (New desk)
> ...


Ideally, around ear level with as few objects near the speakers for sound to reflect off of. Of course you can only do so much.

Of course I'm the one to talk...my speakers aren't even built yet so I have no experience with positioning at a desk







. I'm going to try to mount them above my monitors though once I get around to building them, and see how that sounds *shrug*. I know its better if they're off the desk and away from walls. Anything to improve diffraction and reflections.


----------



## axipher

In definitely plan on building boxes for the two smaller speakers, not sure on dimensions or anything yet though. I'm thinking that with the small size of them, I could just create a bracket that will mount to the VESA mount on the two side panels or something like that.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Here's an update (added the Monitor 70's btw, and moved the 60's to the rear):

Here


----------



## Xyro TR1

I ordered a pair of BIC DV62si's and a little Dayton DTA-100a last night. No idea what I'm going to do with them, but yeah.


----------



## gorb

I finally got a little tv stand to put on top of my tv stand so I don't have to leave my tv on top of my center speaker anymore


----------



## Draven

This may sound stupid as I have no idea about doing audio for my pc, but I was planning a new build soon and I am trying to figure out how I want to set up audio for it, looking at different systems, receivers, speakers, and subs I am becoming very overwhelmed. One thing I was thinking was and my question is can you use car speakers like 6x9's and subs for your pc audio? if not just say no cuz I'm already feeling quite dumb for asking this


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draven73*
> 
> This may sound stupid as I have no idea about doing audio for my pc, but I was planning a new build soon and I am trying to figure out how I want to set up audio for it, looking at different systems, receivers, speakers, and subs I am becoming very overwhelmed. One thing I was thinking was and my question is can you use car speakers like 6x9's and subs for your pc audio? if not just say no cuz I'm already feeling quite dumb for asking this


Yes you can. You'd have to build the speakers and sub into boxes and find sufficient amplification, but they will technically work just fine.


----------



## Draven

what kind of amp's do you suggest?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draven73*
> 
> what kind of amp's do you suggest?


Speakers?
Lepai TA2020
Dayton DTA-100a
Audiosource AMP-100 (or higher)

Sub?
BASH makes some awesome amps.


----------



## Draven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Speakers?
> Lepai TA2020
> Dayton DTA-100a
> Audiosource AMP-100 (or higher)
> Sub?
> BASH makes some awesome amps.


I was thinking about getting MTX 6x9 and an MTX sub I am in canada so some of the stuff I've seen in this thread is hard for me to get where as the MTX stuff I can get at Futuer Shop


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draven73*
> 
> I was thinking about getting MTX 6x9 and an MTX sub I am in canada so some of the stuff I've seen in this thread is hard for me to get where as the MTX stuff I can get at Futuer Shop


Well you honestly won't get the best sound out of standard car audio speakers. Your best bet is to order a set of monitor speakers or bookshelf speakers off of the internet.


----------



## Draven

Ok well thank you for the advice and quick replies


----------



## Remonster

I auditioned a bunch of bookshelf speakers in the <$1,000/pair price range and just wanted to let you guys know about a company that isn't really widely known in the US yet. They were recently bought by Klipsch so they are now being distributed in the US and I finally had a chance to listen to them for the first time.

The Jamo C 803 was my favorite out of everything that I tried (I bought and returned like ten different speakers and heard many more in-store, but I obviously have not heard everything on the market). I have my speakers on my desk about 3' away from my face, but I also move around this room a lot so I wanted something with very wide dispersion, smooth off-axis response and a treble that was detailed but not harsh...bright speakers sound awful as nearfield monitors. I also wanted something that would fit on my desk that had enough bass so I could use it without a subwoofer, my room has really bad acoustics and a subwoofer never sounds right in here (didn't want to go down the rabbit hole of room treatments, either). The 803s go just low enough (they quote bass extension down to 45Hz) for bass drums and bass guitar to sound full and they have tons of dynamic range, so I would say they have just enough bass for me. Even when I listen to hip hop or electronic music, I'm aware that the lowest notes aren't there but I've never wished I had a sub. These are my absolute favorite speakers in this price range, highly recommended for all genres. A lot of speaker manufacturers claim their speakers are neutral and uncolored, but in my experience every country's speakers has a distinct sound and the Danish companies come the closest to faithful reproduction of music without adding their own sound.

I also have a general recommendation for people looking into studio monitors, I tried a few nearfield studio monitors because I love the idea of self-powered monitors, but the ones from M-Audio, Mackie, KRK, etc. that I tried have a very focused soundstage, this minimizes the room's impact on the sound but it means that you get a different sound if you move your head a few inches to the side or slouch down in your chair. I loved the bass of my M-Audio BX8 D2s but you really had to keep your head in a single spot and it drove me insane.


----------



## Draven

Ahhhhh I see now, reading and watching the vids on PE and now I'n starting to understand how all this works, I may have more questions for you lol.


----------



## Draven

OK so my question is if you buy one of those Dayton subs, you plug your sound card to the inputs on the sub amp and the two monitors, do you plug the monitors to the back of the sub and run them off the sub amp?


----------



## longroadtrip

No. The correct order would be Soundcard>Amp>Sub>Speakers The amp built into the sub will not power the speakers.
If you have a DAC and an amp, order is Soundcard>DAC>Amp>Sub>Speakers


----------



## Draven

well if the sound card has an optical output then i can use an receiver with an optical in for the monitors right?

edit: also plug the sub into the receiver?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Draven73*
> 
> well if the sound card has an optical output then i can use an receiver with an optical in for the monitors right?
> 
> edit: also plug the sub into the receiver?


Yes.


----------



## Draven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Yes.


thank you very much for your help, I'm just trying to get this figured out just took a little reading and question asking.

+1 for you guys


----------



## Remonster

Has anyone used the Audioengine N22 desktop amp? I'm getting tired of the channel imbalance of my Dayton dta-100a (left side is louder than right, especially at low volumes) and the fact that really low volumes are pretty much non existant, turning the knob as slowly as I can goes from silent to almost too loud in about a 1/10" of movement









Does the N22 have a better volume pot? Any other desktop amps with headphone amps I should look at in the $300 or under category? (built in DAC would be amazing, I'd be willing to go up to $4-500 for one with a DAC).


----------



## friend'scatdied

Like anything from AudioEngine, the N22 is probably overpriced and underperforming.

Try to go for a used PeachTree Decco or used Decco2, though tubeless alternatives might exist and are worth looking into. There are surprisingly few contenders in the DAC + integrated + headphone amp category, besides HT receivers.


----------



## longroadtrip

Have a look at the Maverick Audio D1 and A1. My understanding is that the perform pretty well for the price.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remonster*
> 
> Has anyone used the Audioengine N22 desktop amp? I'm getting tired of the channel imbalance of my Dayton dta-100a (left side is louder than right, especially at low volumes) and the fact that really low volumes are pretty much non existant, turning the knob as slowly as I can goes from silent to almost too loud in about a 1/10" of movement
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the N22 have a better volume pot? Any other desktop amps with headphone amps I should look at in the $300 or under category? (built in DAC would be amazing, I'd be willing to go up to $4-500 for one with a DAC).


If you have had that DTA-100a for less than 45 days, you can RMA it and they'll fix it. Some of the units still have a problem with the volume knob, which is causing the channel imbalance. Parts Express is really good about getting it fixed if you explain the problem to them.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> If you have had that DTA-100a for less than 45 days, you can RMA it and they'll fix it. Some of the units still have a problem with the volume knob, which is causing the channel imbalance. Parts Express is really good about getting it fixed if you explain the problem to them.


This is what I was going to suggest as well.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Spoiler: Swag















New shiny thing time.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

I was getting a bit of distortion out of my sub so I took it in to exchange for a new one and instead, walked out with this little beast:



Its a DefTech Supercube 20000 - I can't believe that such a little device puts out so much thump!


----------



## ImmortalKenny

My Emotiva Airmotiv 4's came in yesterday and I haven't really had the time to give them a listen yet, but wow are they great. They're my first pair of REAL speakers outside of Logitech and Klipsch Promedia so I can't really compare them to much but they sure do put a big grin on my face. The highs are so clear and sharp because of the ribbon tweeters, but not sibilant. The mids are a little forward sounding, however they're studio monitors so it's something I just need to get used to. The bass is very very very impressive for only 4.5" drivers. In some songs I can feel the bass through the floor (if that makes sense) like I have a subwoofer on the ground. Granted it's nowhere near subwoofer levels, but still quite impressive for what it is.

I know I suck at describing sound but if anyone is in the market for ~$400 powered monitors, I would highly recommend giving these guys a shot. They also have a 30-day in home trial too just like Audioengine A5+'s.


----------



## aus_colin

Here's my setup so far:

JBL LSR2325P



Can't wait till I get a new sub tho


----------



## dade_kash_xD

Front L+R: JBL Stadium Venue (2x 8" 1x 4" 1x 1" tweet)
Center: Definitive Technology Mythos Three
Rear L+R: JBL Venue Monitor
Subwoofer: Definitive Technology SuperCube III


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> Front L+R: JBL Stadium Venue (2x 8" 1x 4" 1x 1" tweet)
> Center: Definitive Technology Mythos Three
> Rear L+R: JBL Venue Monitor
> Subwoofer: Definitive Technology SuperCube III


How are you powering the system?


----------



## dade_kash_xD

I have a creative titanium fatal1ty running via multichannel analog (3x 3.5mm to RCA jacks) to my Denon AVR-488. The Denon powers my 5.1 speakers and I also use the 1/2 inch Jack to power my Beats by Dre Beats PRO headphones.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> I have a creative titanium fatal1ty running via multichannel analog (3x 3.5mm to RCA jacks) to my Denon AVR-488. The Denon powers my 5.1 speakers and I also use the 1/2 inch Jack to power my Beats by Dre Beats PRO headphones.


Nice little setup, I often though about using my amps 1/4" jack with an adapter for my headset, would save switching connections on my sound card all the time.


----------



## dade_kash_xD

Does your amp have a 1/2 inch headphone Jack? If it does, but an adapter. My Beats PRO came with an adapter and I get so much louder and cleaner sound out of my Beats PRO when I use the 1/2 inch Jack on my receiver as opposed to the 1/4 inch Jack on my sound card. When a team mate shoots a M98B sniper rifle in bf3, it startles me because of how loud and powerful a punch it has through my headphones when connected to the amp. Keep in mind also you can use Creative Console to manage the audio setting even if you use an amp like I do.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> Does your amp have a 1/2 inch headphone Jack? If it does, but an adapter. My Beats PRO came with an adapter and I get so much louder and cleaner sound out of my Beats PRO when I use the 1/2 inch Jack on my receiver as opposed to the 1/4 inch Jack on my sound card. When a team mate shoots a M98B sniper rifle in bf3, it startles me because of how loud and powerful a punch it has through my headphones when connected to the amp. Keep in mind also you can use Creative Console to manage the audio setting even if you use an amp like I do.


I think you mean 1/4" and 1/8" jacks.

And I'm just not sure how well the Dolby Surround headphone's effect would work if I go through my amp rather then plug directly in to the card.


----------



## dade_kash_xD

LOL! You are right :X I get amazing Dolby Surround out of my amp, the same as if i was plugged into my sound card. You have to understand, if you are connected VIA multichannel analog, your amp isn't doing any kind of decoding or processing. It is just simply amplifying the sound comming from your sound card. I know this with 100% certainty because when I use "Creative Console" to control the different settings, I get the same changes in sound whether im plugged in VIA 3.5mm on the sound card or 1/4" jack on the amp.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I think you mean 1/4" and 1/8" jacks.
> And I'm just not sure how well the Dolby Surround headphone's effect would work if I go through my amp rather then plug directly in to the card.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> LOL! You are right :X I get amazing Dolby Surround out of my amp, the same as if i was plugged into my sound card. You have to understand, if you are connected VIA multichannel analog, your amp isn't doing any kind of decoding or processing. It is just simply amplifying the sound comming from your sound card. I know this with 100% certainty because when I use "Creative Console" to control the different settings, I get the same changes in sound whether im plugged in VIA 3.5mm on the sound card or 1/4" jack on the amp.


Your amp will NEVER do any of the decoding, no matter how its connected. Its sole purpose is to amplify. The only exception is when the amp is also a dac.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> I think you mean 1/4" and 1/8" jacks.
> And I'm just not sure how well the Dolby Surround headphone's effect would work if I go through my amp rather then plug directly in to the card.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dade_kash_xD*
> 
> LOL! You are right :X I get amazing Dolby Surround out of my amp, the same as if i was plugged into my sound card. You have to understand, if you are connected VIA multichannel analog, your amp isn't doing any kind of decoding or processing. It is just simply amplifying the sound comming from your sound card. I know this with 100% certainty because when I use "Creative Console" to control the different settings, I get the same changes in sound whether im plugged in VIA 3.5mm on the sound card or 1/4" jack on the amp.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your amp will NEVER do any of the decoding, no matter how its connected. Its sole purpose is to amplify. The only exception is when the amp is also a dac.
Click to expand...

What I'm wondering though is if the emulated surround sound over stereo that goes to my head set will remain unaltered and just simply amplified. I only have a single 1/8" stereo jack going to my Yamaha R-S100.

Coming directly off my sound card, if I plug in the single 1/8" stereo jack of my headset, I get the Dolby Headphone emulated 5.1 surround and it does make a difference compared to regular stereo mode.

Would plugging this same headset in to the amp instead still retain the 5.1 surround effect is what I'm questioning. So I just wanted clarification that:

Soundcard > Single 1/8" jack > AMP > 1/4" jack > Headphones

Will provide the same surround effect as:

Soundcard > Single 1/8" jack > Headphones

When on a 5.1 source.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Soundcard > Single 1/8" jack > AMP > 1/4" jack > Headphones
> Will provide the same surround effect as:
> Soundcard > Single 1/8" jack > Headphones
> When on a 5.1 source.


Both of these will produce the same SQ and effects. Throwing the amp in the mix only amplifies the source behind it, nothing else.

One thing, on the Xonar DG (which I assume is what you're using since its in your specs), ensure that you are not coming out of your headphone out and you are using a speaker out instead. If you use the headphone out to an amp, you'll be double amping (since the DG has a built-in, albeit inadequate amp).

Hope this helps; good luck.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Soundcard > Single 1/8" jack > AMP > 1/4" jack > Headphones
> Will provide the same surround effect as:
> Soundcard > Single 1/8" jack > Headphones
> When on a 5.1 source.
> 
> 
> 
> Both of these will produce the same SQ and effects. Throwing the amp in the mix only amplifies the source behind it, nothing else.
> 
> One thing, on the Xonar DG (which I assume is what you're using since its in your specs), ensure that you are not coming out of your headphone out and you are using a speaker out instead. If you use the headphone out to an amp, you'll be double amping (since the DG has a built-in, albeit inadequate amp).
> 
> Hope this helps; good luck.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll give this a try tonight.

And I only have on output, but there's an option in the software control panel to select if its head phone or multi-speaker which turns on and off the AMP as well, it's a pretty loud click too from the relay going on or off so I'm always sure that's it's properly switching.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Fun little test of my speakers. FYI: the song I was using starts off with a guy screaming, so turn your volume down.


----------



## friend'scatdied

Can anyone recommend a good integrated amplifier for nearfield listening applications, preferably with some form of bass management? I'm looking to swap my Nova out for a cheaper discrete DAC and integrated amp.

Speakers employed will be the Anthony Gallo Reference Strada (8 ohms, 87 dB/W/m), subwoofer will be the SVS SB-12 Plus. Bass management like an adjustable low-pass filter would be a huge plus.


----------



## longroadtrip

It all depends on what you mean by cheaper. You Nova is a great piece of equipment at $1000! I have a Maverick Audio D2/A1 setup. It's 2 units but they also make the D1 which is an integrated tube amp/DAC combo...it starts at $199 + shipping


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Fun little test of my speakers. FYI: the song I was using starts off with a guy screaming, so turn your volume down.


Nice. Your neighbors must love you







.

Do you have an xover on your main speakers? Also, is that a center speaker in the middle of your desk?


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Nice. Your neighbors must love you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Do you have an xover on your main speakers? Also, is that a center speaker in the middle of your desk?


Haha well I _rarely_ crank it that high, but I felt like doing it that day.







I asked them one day if they ever heard me, and they said no, but they'd let me know if they did! I think they were gone when I tried this.










I do not have an X-over set up at the moment as I rarely use the sub, primarily just the 3-ways, and I like my full frequency range. As long as I don't hit clip level on the amp, I'm not too concerned. It actually sounds quite full this way! There is no center speaker, the setup is pictured here:


----------



## raptorxrx

Hey guys, quick question.

I have some normal Logitech 5.1 Speakers I was using until two things happened.
-Interference. I started picking up radio... Christian radio on my speakers...
-Cables. Everywhere.

So my Dad had some Bose 2 Channel (don't shoot me), and I plugged them in for a 30 minute thing to try them, and they were decent.

Any speakers 2.1 or 2 channel under 150$ better than the Bose Companion? They would either need to be wall mountable or small as my two monitors, and big mousepad don't leave room for much else...

I was looking for the Kipslich Pro Media 2.1, but couldn't find a reputable place selling them...


----------



## Xyro TR1

I'll sell you my Dayton Audio DTA-100a and BIC DV62si's for $180! They're LEAPS and BOUNDS better than any computer speakers you can buy. And I've used them for about 10 minutes total.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptorxrx*
> 
> Hey guys, quick question.
> I have some normal Logitech 5.1 Speakers I was using until two things happened.
> -Interference. I started picking up radio... Christian radio on my speakers...
> -Cables. Everywhere.
> So my Dad had some Bose 2 Channel (don't shoot me), and I plugged them in for a 30 minute thing to try them, and they were decent.
> Any speakers 2.1 or 2 channel under 150$ better than the Bose Companion? They would either need to be wall mountable or small as my two monitors, and big mousepad don't leave room for much else...
> I was looking for the Kipslich Pro Media 2.1, but couldn't find a reputable place selling them...


http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO

BB also sell them, but only in store.


----------



## raptorxrx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> I'll sell you my Dayton Audio DTA-100a and BIC DV62si's for $180! They're LEAPS and BOUNDS better than any computer speakers you can buy. And I've used them for about 10 minutes total.


Sounds like a good deal, but I won't have the money for about another month. (Beginning-Middle of May...)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO
> BB also sell them, but only in store.


I could get them at BB I guess...

Xyro, how much better are your speakers than the Pro Media?


----------



## Remonster

I would take the Promedia 2.1 over the BICs, especially if you like low bass.


----------



## Krully

Looks like I forgot to add myself to this club.

Pair of Audioengine 5+ speakers with Audioengine S8 subwoofer. Also using a Asus Xonar essence STX soundcard with Audio Technica ATH-AD700 and Sennheiser HD280 pro headphones.


----------



## raptorxrx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remonster*
> 
> I would take the Promedia 2.1 over the BICs, especially if you like low bass.


Hmmmm. So the Pro Media's are my best option between 150-180? I have headphones for the bass department.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptorxrx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> I'll sell you my Dayton Audio DTA-100a and BIC DV62si's for $180! They're LEAPS and BOUNDS better than any computer speakers you can buy. And I've used them for about 10 minutes total.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a good deal, but I won't have the money for about another month. (Beginning-Middle of May...)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-ProMedia-Certified-Computer-Speaker/dp/B000062VUO
> BB also sell them, but only in store.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I could get them at BB I guess...
> 
> Xyro, how much better are your speakers than the Pro Media?
Click to expand...

You better take Xyro up on his offer!!!! The BIC's will sound 1,000x better than those Klipsh speakers will. You will lack in bass without a subwoofer...but that's a super easy fix later down the road, just add a powered sub to it (Dayton SUB800, 1000, or 1200).


----------



## g.androider

It's hard to find Promedia 2.1 these days.. can you guys recommend me US$ 200 2.1 speakers which is perform similar to the legendary Klipsch?

Thanks...


----------



## THERIDDLER

Im looking for a high quality set up for my computer. Looking at 2.1 and dont want to spend over $1000 on the speakers and amplifier if possible.

I know theres gotta be a link on this thread somewhere just hard to search for with over 260 pages.

Edit: Looking for a smaller set of speakers... Bookshelf or Satellite size, The sub doesnt matter so much itll be tucked under my desk

would this be worth hooking up to a couple high end speakers w/amp?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132023

I know its DAC w/headphone amp and am plannin on getting a set of audiofile headphones..


----------



## THERIDDLER

After a bit of reading i answered my question. I will end up with the Asus Xonar Essence one, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohm), and a set of active speakers with a polk subwoofer.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> After a bit of reading i answered my question. I will end up with the Asus Xonar Essence one, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohm), and a set of active speakers with a polk subwoofer.


Why active speakers instead of a T amp or receiver + some really nice bookshelfs?

I personally REALLY enjoy having a desktop volume control that I can instantly turn things up or down at my own leisure. Also, if you used a receiver, you could skip the headphones amp and drive them right off the receiver's headphones jack. You could also skip the sound card unless you just wanted special features, as you could run optical or HDMI into the receiever.

Assuming you've got the room for a receiver of course. With your kind of budget, that's what I would do. Receiver off onboard sound (unless you want sound card features....as it won't be used as a DAC anyway), get whatever headphones you want, and get some very nice passive bookshelfs with a solid subwoofer. If you're any good with woodworking and you're a bass head, there's TONS of things you could do subwoofer wise that would blow your socks off. Of course there's nothing wrong with pre builts...I'm just a sub fanatic.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Why active speakers instead of a T amp or receiver + some really nice bookshelfs?
> I personally REALLY enjoy having a desktop volume control that I can instantly turn things up or down at my own leisure. Also, if you used a receiver, you could skip the headphones amp and drive them right off the receiver's headphones jack. You could also skip the sound card unless you just wanted special features, as you could run optical or HDMI into the receiever.
> Assuming you've got the room for a receiver of course. With your kind of budget, that's what I would do. Receiver off onboard sound (unless you want sound card features....as it won't be used as a DAC anyway), get whatever headphones you want, and get some very nice passive bookshelfs with a solid subwoofer. If you're any good with woodworking and you're a bass head, there's TONS of things you could do subwoofer wise that would blow your socks off. Of course there's nothing wrong with pre builts...I'm just a sub fanatic.


Im pretty good with wood but not sure i could put together my own box correctly. Read a few reviews and headphones dont sound the best coming out of a reciever. They are at their best potental out of headphone amp. I could run the Essence one to a stereo amp than to bookshelf speakers..

I want to use the Essence one as a "sound card" for my computer that i can plug my headphones into.. If i can figure out a way to route that to an amp/reciever to speakers that would be the best option.

Im new to this area though. I wouldnt know where to start looking for a good amp or reciever. I dont have a ton of room and ill only be powering a 2.1 system so i dont need a huge amp or reciever. A slim one would be best if you had any suggestions.

Im still running a $1000 budget for speakers and amp/reciever


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Why active speakers instead of a T amp or receiver + some really nice bookshelfs?
> I personally REALLY enjoy having a desktop volume control that I can instantly turn things up or down at my own leisure. Also, if you used a receiver, you could skip the headphones amp and drive them right off the receiver's headphones jack. You could also skip the sound card unless you just wanted special features, as you could run optical or HDMI into the receiever.
> Assuming you've got the room for a receiver of course. With your kind of budget, that's what I would do. Receiver off onboard sound (unless you want sound card features....as it won't be used as a DAC anyway), get whatever headphones you want, and get some very nice passive bookshelfs with a solid subwoofer. If you're any good with woodworking and you're a bass head, there's TONS of things you could do subwoofer wise that would blow your socks off. Of course there's nothing wrong with pre builts...I'm just a sub fanatic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im pretty good with wood but not sure i could put together my own box correctly. Read a few reviews and headphones dont sound the best coming out of a reciever. They are at their best potental out of headphone amp. I could run the Essence one to a stereo amp than to bookshelf speakers..
> 
> I want to use the Essence one as a "sound card" for my computer that i can plug my headphones into.. If i can figure out a way to route that to an amp/reciever to speakers that would be the best option.
> 
> Im new to this area though. I wouldnt know where to start looking for a good amp or reciever. I dont have a ton of room and ill only be powering a 2.1 system so i dont need a huge amp or reciever. A slim one would be best if you had any suggestions.
> 
> Im still running a $1000 budget for speakers and amp/reciever
Click to expand...

I would suggest you take a look at this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1014902/ocns-most-recommended-audio-products/0_50

It's still lacking in the headphones amp section, and the passive speakers, and subwoofers sections. But its enough to get you a rough idea. For an amp, if you're wanting something small...look at the Dayton DTA-100a Tripath amplifier. It's a great speaker amp, and its got a very small foot print. Headphones.....well I don't know headphones that well.

Speakers, I'm sure somebody can come up with some excellent choices for you to look into in your budget range. I know mostly the "budget" equipment.


----------



## StreekG

Am I eligible for this?

Swan DK1080MKII 08
Polk Audio PSW300 10" Sub...


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I would suggest you take a look at this thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1014902/ocns-most-recommended-audio-products/0_50
> It's still lacking in the headphones amp section, and the passive speakers, and subwoofers sections. But its enough to get you a rough idea. For an amp, if you're wanting something small...look at the Dayton DTA-100a Tripath amplifier. It's a great speaker amp, and its got a very small foot print. Headphones.....well I don't know headphones that well.
> Speakers, I'm sure somebody can come up with some excellent choices for you to look into in your budget range. I know mostly the "budget" equipment.


Yeah i saw skimmed through that thread. It shows speakers under my budget but have looked at them. Is the Dayton DTA-100a also a speaker amp? I thought it was just a headphone amp?
If thats also a speaker amp would the Asus Xonar Essence one also be a speaker amp? It has outputs in the back for Balanced cables to run to speakers..

The headphoes i have figured out, and i want to stick with the Xonar Essence One. If i can use that with some passive speakers I'd be set.. If not i need to find a smaller reciever/amp to hook up to my Essence. Ill look into the Dayton again and read up on it.

thanks for the help


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I would suggest you take a look at this thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1014902/ocns-most-recommended-audio-products/0_50
> It's still lacking in the headphones amp section, and the passive speakers, and subwoofers sections. But its enough to get you a rough idea. For an amp, if you're wanting something small...look at the Dayton DTA-100a Tripath amplifier. It's a great speaker amp, and its got a very small foot print. Headphones.....well I don't know headphones that well.
> Speakers, I'm sure somebody can come up with some excellent choices for you to look into in your budget range. I know mostly the "budget" equipment.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i saw skimmed through that thread. It shows speakers under my budget but have looked at them. Is the Dayton DTA-100a also a speaker amp? I thought it was just a headphone amp?
> If thats also a speaker amp would the Asus Xonar Essence one also be a speaker amp? It has outputs in the back for Balanced cables to run to speakers..
> 
> The headphoes i have figured out, and i want to stick with the Xonar Essence One. If i can use that with some passive speakers I'd be set.. If not i need to find a smaller reciever/amp to hook up to my Essence. Ill look into the Dayton again and read up on it.
> 
> thanks for the help
Click to expand...

The Xonar Essence One is a DAC / Headphones amp. The DTA-100a is a speaker amplifier, the headphones jack IS ran off a headphones amp chip (seperate from the speakers), but its honestly nothing to write home about and I wouldn't suggest the DTA-100a as a dedicated headphones amp. For speakers, its absolutely excellent. I've powered every speaker in my house off of it without any issues (4 different pairs of Towers, and 3 different pairs of bookshelfs...also have ran a passive sub off it at one point).

The outputs on the back of the Xonar Essense aren't speaker outs, they're just Analogue outputs (from the best of my understanding) to send to an actual amplifier.


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> The Xonar Essence One is a DAC / Headphones amp. The DTA-100a is a speaker amplifier, the headphones jack IS ran off a headphones amp chip (seperate from the speakers), but its honestly nothing to write home about and I wouldn't suggest the DTA-100a as a dedicated headphones amp. For speakers, its absolutely excellent. I've powered every speaker in my house off of it without any issues (4 different pairs of Towers, and 3 different pairs of bookshelfs...also have ran a passive sub off it at one point).
> The outputs on the back of the Xonar Essense aren't speaker outs, they're just Analogue outputs (from the best of my understanding) to send to an actual amplifier.


ah so id need an amp anyway.. hmm.. I'll read into the DTA some more.

Well, ill end up sticking witht he Xonar Essence one and hooking it up to a Seperate Stereo Amp. Most of the smaller amps ive looked at use RCA connectors. Is there an advantage of connecting my Essence to an amp using a Balanced XLR cable? Or would it be just as beneficial using RCA cables?


----------



## THERIDDLER

Moving my questions to own thread.. This is a place to show off speakers not take up pages asking questions.. Great set up yall


----------



## BBLENDER

Can I? Alesis M1Active 520.



Sorry for the non-spectacular setting...


----------



## lagittaja

Sold my Pioneer VSX-519 and ordered a Lepai TA2020A+ with a 5A psu from China early this week.
Hopefully it doesn't take a month for the amp to arrive, I'm gonna feel so sad not to be able to use my speakers lmao.
During summer I might do some mods to the amp and of course buy a higher end psu for it, my guess is that the included psu will have bad regulation.

From Finland with Desire


----------



## bobfig

i just wanna let yall know to maybe keep an eye out as i may be building a 2.0 amp for my bookshelf speakers in the future. im still pondering the idea but sinking $350+ into this project is a little hard at the moment as funds are limited.


----------



## lagittaja

Picked up my new Lepai TA2020A+








Pics coming soon









Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk 2

E:
Alrighty then







Maybe 45minutes of using this and so far I'm loving this. More than enough power. Sounds decent even with the integrated sound card my motherboard has (yes yes I know, I have a Asus Xonar DGX waiting for me in the post office, will pick it up sometime next week). Also I'm probably going to replace the psu asap, get a new one with better regulation. Also I am thinking about recapping this thing.


----------



## bobfig

well i have bought some stuff for my project and most of it is on its way here. i do however have a toroidal transformer here already and this thing is heavy. just under 6lbs and 4.5" in diameter


----------



## lolllll117

Do these count?



They are made by cerwin vega.
Made sometime in the 1970's but I don't know the model.


----------



## raptorxrx

Hey guys, me again.

I'm still planning on buying Xyro's speakers, he's been great about it, but about a week ago I sent him a PM saying I had the money and all of that to pay him, and didn't get a response. I'm figuring he just forgot about it, so I shot him another one today. Even though I bet it will, what should I do if I can't buy his speakers. I've got up to 200$ to spend, and I'll buy a sub later.

Thanks again guys!

NM, he just forgot to reply!


----------



## bobfig

i would look at the Audioengine A2, M-Audio AV 40, or Swan D1080 IV. thats all i can think of at the moment.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lolllll117*
> 
> Do these count?
> 
> They are made by cerwin vega.
> Made sometime in the 1970's but I don't know the model.


Bud, I don't know if you know what you've got in your hands. These speakers are highly desirable and rather pricey. Be nice to them!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptorxrx*
> 
> Hey guys, me again.
> I'm still planning on buying Xyro's speakers, he's been great about it, but about a week ago I sent him a PM saying I had the money and all of that to pay him, and didn't get a response. I'm figuring he just forgot about it, so I shot him another one today. Even though I bet it will, what should I do if I can't buy his speakers. I've got up to 200$ to spend, and I'll buy a sub later.
> Thanks again guys!


Sooooo sorry! I opened the PM at work, made a mental note to get back to you, and then stuck the mental note on a pile of crap in a corner to be forever forgotten. It's been replied to!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> i would look at the Audioengine A2, M-Audio AV 40, or Swan D1080 IV. thats all i can think of at the moment.


Am I the only one who's been less than impressed with M-Audio? *shrug* Those Swan's are pretty awesome, tho. Stick 'em with a decent sub and you've got some super nice full range audio.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Am I the only one who's been less than impressed with M-Audio? *shrug* Those Swan's are pretty awesome, tho. Stick 'em with a decent sub and you've got some super nice full range audio.


not really. i was just posting what was available. if it was up to me i would go with ether of the other 2 if i had too. i would rather go with some nice passive speakers and a dedicated amp.


----------



## lolllll117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Bud, I don't know if you know what you've got in your hands. These speakers are highly desirable and rather pricey. Be nice to them!


lol, don't worry, i never turn them up too high because i live in a neighborhood full of old people and i know they would complain. they are easily heard across the street when my windows are open at a volume of 7 (my amp goes up to 30) but i've never gone past 12.


----------



## Xyro TR1

So.... I can scroll my mousewheel with bass. Just sayin', that's probably the funniest thing I've accidentally done in a while.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> So.... I can scroll my mousewheel with bass. Just sayin', that's probably the funniest thing I've accidentally done in a while.


I'll be really impressed if you can scroll with the wheel in click mode


----------



## pangolinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBLENDER*
> 
> Can I? Alesis M1Active 520.
> 
> Sorry for the non-spectacular setting...


How do you like them, and how do they handle bass? I know my Alesises seem to reach much really low despite being rated to 45hz.

And a pic of my setup, Alesis M1Active


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> I'll be really impressed if you can scroll with the wheel in click mode


That was in click mode...! I need to take a video of this. It doesn't scroll far. Just down and back up again. In free mode I'm sure it's ridiculous.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> That was in click mode...! I need to take a video of this. It doesn't scroll far. Just down and back up again. In free mode I'm sure it's ridiculous.


Lol nice. I guess I'm used to stiffer scroll wheels.

The little things in life that make us happy. Like when my car sound system gets my rear view mirror to vibrate enough to become blurry. If I turn it up actually loud it's basically unusable







. Find the resonant frequency of your mouse wheel and play a sine wave at that frequency







. I have yet to try this with my mirror but I know its fs is not super low so I bet I could get it vibrating pretty good lol.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Lol nice. I guess I'm used to stiffer scroll wheels.
> The little things in life that make us happy. Like when my car sound system gets my rear view mirror to vibrate enough to become blurry. If I turn it up actually loud it's basically unusable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Find the resonant frequency of your mouse wheel and play a sine wave at that frequency
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have yet to try this with my mirror but I know its fs is not super low so I bet I could get it vibrating pretty good lol.


Haha I love doing that! I can get the roof of my car to flex at certain frequencies... it's rather entertaining.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I keep breaking dome lights in my car.







Had to buy an LED conversion kit.....but the sub ended up rattling the entire thing loose.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I keep breaking dome lights in my car.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to buy an LED conversion kit.....but the sub ended up rattling the entire thing loose.


LOL! Well I don't have that issue. That might also be because it takes like 5lbs of force to remove the LED lights from their clips in my dome lights.


----------



## elzhi

here's a pic of my first (proper) speakers setup.










Genelec 8030A

i've got a new DAC and some and table stands coming tomorrow


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elzhi*
> 
> here's a pic of my first (proper) speakers setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Genelec 8030A
> 
> i've got a new DAC and some and table stands coming tomorrow


Fantastic monitors - the whole 80xx series are some of my favorites to mix on.


----------



## flipd

Took long enough, but I finally decided to get myself real speakers in addition to my headphones.

M-Audio AV 40



















Just to compare, I used to operate on this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v603/RaRiZaRd/Xynapse/146.jpg


----------



## bobfig

nice. once you get some decent audio you can never go back to "lower quality" audio.


----------



## lagittaja

That is true. I went from some crappy labtec 2.1 pc speakers to cambridge audio FPS1600 4.1 pc speaker set (the satellites on these are fantastic btw) to Z-5500 and then I moved to proper audio. Bought the Olavi Räsänen 5.0 speaker set and Pioneer VSX-519. Then I got the Audio Pro Sub B1.20. Then sold the 5.0 set, bought a pair of Diamond 10.2's.
Recent upgrade was to sell the Pioneer and I bought the Lepai TA2020A+ mini amp, what a fantastic little amp.
Right now I'm only using the Wharfe's, I'm using the sub as a leg rest lol.
Next thing for me is to buy a proper sound card and some rca cables and figure out the proper set up so I can use the sub as well.

I'm thinking sound card -> sub in -> sub handles crossover -> sub out -> amp in -> Wharfe's.
How about that? Volume control would be a tad awkward though..

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## flipd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> nice. once you get some decent audio you can never go back to "lower quality" audio.


I prefer headphones but I know it won't be enough in some situations.

I actually started with this HUGE hand-me-down AIWA set that, now in retrospect, was the bassiest thing in the world. I was satisfied with it and I used it until space became an issue so I had to get rid of it. You can see it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL3FIsPnflI

At that time I got my ATH AD700 headphones which were great, then summer came and it became too hot to wear the headphones for hours at a time. I then used a pair of tinny Logitech S120 speakers that my friend had for no reason at all (he doesn't even want to take them back anymore). I couldn't stand how terrible it was in terms of sound quality and cable clutter. So then I moved to the single Siig sphere speaker, which was tremendously better and cleaner than the Logitech pair, but still wasn't good enough and only served the purpose of holding me over until I found better speakers.

So a little bit of research and patience led me to these amazing entry-level M-Audio Studiophile AV 40 speakers. I think i found the ideal set for my rig. So you're right. I'm never going back to lower quality computer speakers. Now my sound card can do me some good when I'm not wearing my headphones.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> nice. once you get some decent audio you can never go back to "lower quality" audio.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually started with this HUGE hand-me-down AIWA set that, now in retrospect, was the bassiest thing in the world. I was satisfied with it and I used it until space became an issue so I had to get rid of it. You can see it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL3FIsPnflI
> 
> At that time I got my ATH AD700 headphones which were great, then summer came and it became too hot to wear the headphones for hours at a time. I then used a pair of tinny Logitech S120 speakers that my friend had for no reason at all (he doesn't even want to take them back anymore). I couldn't stand how terrible it was in terms of sound quality and cable clutter. So then I moved to the single Siig sphere speaker, which was tremendously better and cleaner than the Logitech pair, but still wasn't good enough and only served the purpose of holding me over until I found better speakers.
> 
> So a little bit of research and patience led me to these amazing entry-level M-Audio Studiophile AV 40 speakers. I think i found the ideal set for my rig. So you're right. I'm never going back to lower quality computer speakers. Now my sound card can do me justice when I'm not wearing my headphones.
Click to expand...

Wait wait wait a second here, those Aiwa bookshelf speakers are "huge" to you?


----------



## flipd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Wait wait wait a second here, those Aiwa bookshelf speakers are "huge" to you?


Floor space. That's one of the reasons why I thought they were huge. It was only 2 inches away from my door at one point, and I didn't have the capability to position the 5 speakers properly so it ended up being a waste. It now resides in my brother's room where it serves better purpose.

And that was the biggest speaker set I've had to date so I don't really know what defines "huge".


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipd*
> 
> Floor space. That's one of the reasons why I thought they were huge. It was only 2 inches away from my door at one point, and I didn't have the capability to position the 5 speakers properly so it ended up being a waste. It now resides in my brother's room where it serves better purpose.
> And that was the biggest speaker set I've had to date so I don't really know what defines "huge".


Floorstanders from the '60s and '70s used as large as 15'' woofers. That should give you a reference







.

And yes I know there are much bigger speakers out there so don't jump down my throat with exceptions lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *flipd*
> 
> Floor space. That's one of the reasons why I thought they were huge. It was only 2 inches away from my door at one point, and I didn't have the capability to position the 5 speakers properly so it ended up being a waste. It now resides in my brother's room where it serves better purpose.
> And that was the biggest speaker set I've had to date so I don't really know what defines "huge".
> 
> 
> 
> Floorstanders from the '60s and '70s used as large as 15'' woofers. That should give you a reference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> And yes I know there are much bigger speakers out there so don't jump down my throat with exceptions lol.
Click to expand...

My fronts are about 14" x 14" at the base, and about 5 feet tall.







That's two pairs of 12" towers though, so I guess that's kind of cheating huh?


----------



## OverClocker55

Here are my favorite speakers and first


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Here are my favorite speakers and first


Not a bad set honestly, although I hope you didn't pay retail.....

However this club is for real speakers.







Please read the OP:
Quote:


> As such, we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters.


----------



## lolllll117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Floorstanders from the '60s and '70s used as large as 15'' woofers. That should give you a reference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> And yes I know there are much bigger speakers out there so don't jump down my throat with exceptions lol.


kind of like my cerwin vega's from the 70's


Spoiler: speakers







they have 12" woofers on each.


----------



## Chipp

I currently own an example of 15" woofer 80's speakers (Sansui SP-3000), and love them to death. They are 5-way, 6-driver monsters that, each, weigh about double my 15" PA cabinets. Some pictures and such in the album linked in my sig.

I really need to restore the crossovers, though - capacitors drift off-value with age, and these ones are certainly quite far from their original spec. I'd love to hear what they sound like as they were intended to.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipp*
> 
> I currently own an example of 15" woofer 80's speakers (Sansui SP-3000), and love them to death. They are 5-way, 6-driver monsters that, each, weigh about double my 15" PA cabinets. Some pictures and such in the album linked in my sig.
> 
> I really need to restore the crossovers, though - capacitors drift off-value with age, and these ones are certainly quite far from their original spec. I'd love to hear what they sound like as they were intended to.


Those look like monsters.









Insert long paragraph here of me being nitpicky, but then deciding to remove it......


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Here are my favorite speakers and first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not a bad set honestly, although I hope you didn't pay retail.....
> 
> However this club is for real speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please read the OP:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> As such, we have agreed to exclude Logitech and any other pc-based speaker brandings from acceptance into the club. As of now, any and all speaker brands that reach beyond pc-intention, including stereo and HTIB, are deemed acceptable and fit within the parameters of the club. For now, specific sets such as Klipsch ProMedia's and Swan M10's, both of which are pc-based for all intents and purposes, are not deemed to fit within these parameters.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

so corsair is excluded? :sadsmile


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> so corsair is excluded? :sadsmile


Corsair Gaming Audio Series™ SP2200 2.1 *PC* Speaker System

Yeah..


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> so corsair is excluded? :sadsmile
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair Gaming Audio Series™ SP2200 2.1 *PC* Speaker System
> 
> Yeah..
Click to expand...

noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> so corsair is excluded? :sadsmile
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair Gaming Audio Series™ SP2200 2.1 *PC* Speaker System
> 
> Yeah..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
Click to expand...

Time for somebody to stop wasting money in computer parts, and invest in some real audio equipment it seems.









Make a thread, and PM it to me when you're ready to get started.









Seriously, audio is more of an "investment". PC hardware, you're just wasting money away for more frames, and it'll be outdated in 6 months. Quality audio...it lasts a lifetime if you take care of it. Unless you get bitten by the upgrade bug like the rest of us do.


----------



## lagittaja

Hmm. Just noticed that I'm not even on the list.
A little outdated photo but anyway.

Nowadays the amp I'm using is this feisty little TA2020A+


I'll have some better photos when I find myself a nice little apartment. At that point I'll probably have my Wharfe's put on stands also.
I have one pair of stands which are these old Ikea ones, can't remember the model name but anyway.
I could use those but I don't wanna drill holes to my speakers so I'll probably go and buy some plywood and make some sort of platforms on top of the stands which would eliminate the need to drill holes to the speakers.
Also the ugly grey color eww -> matte black rattle can GO GO


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> so corsair is excluded? :sadsmile
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair Gaming Audio Series™ SP2200 2.1 *PC* Speaker System
> 
> Yeah..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> noooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Time for somebody to stop wasting money in computer parts, and invest in some real audio equipment it seems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make a thread, and PM it to me when you're ready to get started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, audio is more of an "investment". PC hardware, you're just wasting money away for more frames, and it'll be outdated in 6 months. Quality audio...it lasts a lifetime if you take care of it. Unless you get bitten by the upgrade bug like the rest of us do.
Click to expand...

well I do got some Bose quality headpphones.


----------



## raptorxrx

Quote:


> Bose quality headphones


Do you know anything about headphones? Read up before you buy those Bose. Unless you just want active noise cancellation.


----------



## lagittaja

I understood from his post that he already has the Bose headphones. But anyway.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Bose quality, eh? No highs no lows, gotta be a Bose!

Seriously tho OC55, get yourself some nice bookshelf speakers and amp and enjoy sound that you've never heard before....!


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Bose quality, eh? No highs no lows, gotta be a Bose!
> 
> Seriously tho OC55, get yourself some nice bookshelf speakers and amp and enjoy sound that you've never heard before....!


ok. any good brands?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> My fronts are about 14" x 14" at the base, and about 5 feet tall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's two pairs of 12" towers though, so I guess that's kind of cheating huh?


Yep. I guess people got tired of big floorstanders in the 90's or something haha.

Don't underestimate 15" woofers though. That's quite a bit of surface area, even compared to multiple smaller woofers.

Eventually I'm going to build some good home speakers. Dont really have the need right now but I know they'd sound amazing.


----------



## lagittaja

Well I'm gonna make an assumption that you're on a budget.
For the amp, I would go for a small class T stereo amplifier. I myself have a Lepai TA2020A+ which I ordered from ebay. Can't remember the exact price right now but it's not much and it will be perfect for a starter sound system.
If you live in usa then you can perhaps order the amp from parts express.
For good starter speakers I'm not completely sure, I don't know much about sub 300

E: And that was directed to OC55, I'm a tad slow on typing on this thing lol


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Bose quality, eh? No highs no lows, gotta be a Bose!
> 
> Seriously tho OC55, get yourself some nice bookshelf speakers and amp and enjoy sound that you've never heard before....!
> 
> 
> 
> ok. any good brands?
Click to expand...

Make a thread, post the link in here for us to look at, and PM the link to me.







We'll need to know total budget, what you're after (2.0, 2.1, or 5.1), any size restraints for the main speakers / sub, and what type of audio will play through them.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Make a thread, post the link in here for us to look at, and PM the link to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We'll need to know total budget, what you're after (2.0, 2.1, or 5.1), any size restraints for the main speakers / sub, and what type of audio will play through them.


This. Pio knows what he's talking about. You'll be quite surprised at how much better quality sound is out there.


----------



## elzhi

since last time i posted i bought table stands and a new dac


----------



## drjoey1500

How good are m-audio bx5a?


----------



## bobfig

dont have first had experience but this review seems to like them some.


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> How good are m-audio bx5a?


I don't own them but I have listened to them on more than one occasion. They sound really nice - the mid range is very clean, the highs have no sibilance but don't expect to feel any real thump from the bottom end with these (or most monitors this size really). I like 'em.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> dont have first had experience but this review seems to like them some.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tr8rjohnk*
> 
> I don't own them but I have listened to them on more than one occasion. They sound really nice - the mid range is very clean, the highs have no sibilance but don't expect to feel any real thump from the bottom end with these (or most monitors this size really). I like 'em.


Cool thx guys.


----------



## iamallama

Can I join with some Bic DV62Si's and a DT-100a?


----------



## longroadtrip

I want in!
Polk Monitor 30s
Maverick Audio A1 Amp
Maverick Audio D2 DAC

Here is an older photo with a DTA-100 that I first used...


----------



## senna89

For gaming is better a 2.1 System or a much advance 2.0 speakers ?

For example an Empire KS3000D or Edifier HCS2330 against Edifier R1600T Plus or Empire S500, who is better for play to FPS games ?


----------



## lolllll117

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> For gaming is better a 2.1 System or a much advance 2.0 speakers ?
> For example an Empire KS3000D or Edifier HCS2330 against Edifier R1600T Plus or Empire S500, who is better for play to FPS games ?


I'd go with the 2.1 system but that may be just preference because I listen to a lot of music.
For gaming the subwoofer isn't really necessary.


----------



## senna89

Why u raccomande the M-AUDIO MV40 ? i read many negative opinions about its reliability and inaccurate sound ( too directional, if you move slightly, the sound quality worsen much drammatically and the bass is too artificial, is it true story ? ).

Who have the more powerfull bass ? M-AUDIO AV40 or Edifier R1900TII ?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Why u raccomande the M-AUDIO MV40 ? i read many negative opinions about its reliability and inaccurate sound ( too directional, if you move slightly, the sound quality worsen much drammatically and the bass is too artificial, is it true story ? ).
> 
> Who have the more powerfull bass ? M-AUDIO AV40 or Edifier R1900TII ?


Configured properly, the AV 40's sound a little better. Albeit this is with bass almost removed from them since I can't stand speaker systems without even a small sub-woofer.

Even a basic speaker system can get a huge improvement with a proper amp that has a high-pass filter for the speakers, and a sub-woofer properly configured with a low-pass filter.

Case and point, never rely on your speakers for bass unless you are willing to sacrifice the rest of your sound quality. Self-powered subs can easily be found for $50 used. I'm running an old 100 W Dahlquist that is easily over 15 years old that my grandma didn't want anymore. That thing sound better than most $300+ sub-woofers you find out there now.


----------



## senna89

i can give up to the subwoofer and few bass, but i would at least a stronger speakers for around 100-120$ to fill the "gap" in the bass.


----------



## pioneerisloud

axipher:
By all means, any speaker system should be capable of at least mid bass. You want your speakers to extend at least into the 70Hz range, if not lower, so that your subwoofer doesn't have to run directional.

I don't use a high pass filter on my setup because I've got 2x Jensen tower speakers (actually not that bad honestly), running off my DTA-100a. I get extension down to about 32Hz or so. So I don't even need a sub. Obviously with smaller bookshelfs you are correct though. However you do still want them to put out down to around 70Hz.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> axipher:
> By all means, any speaker system should be capable of at least mid bass. You want your speakers to extend at least into the 70Hz range, if not lower, so that your subwoofer doesn't have to run directional.
> I don't use a high pass filter on my setup because I've got 2x Jensen tower speakers (actually not that bad honestly), running off my DTA-100a. I get extension down to about 32Hz or so. So I don't even need a sub. Obviously with smaller bookshelfs you are correct though. However you do still want them to put out down to around 70Hz.


I believe its OK as long as it reaches ~100hz. At least that's what I remember reading several places. Above that you begin to be able to locate the sub.

There's also a point of diminishing returns because the distortion in [most of] the small ~5" speakers in bookshelfs increases very quickly once you start to get into the lower frequencies.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> axipher:
> By all means, any speaker system should be capable of at least mid bass. You want your speakers to extend at least into the 70Hz range, if not lower, so that your subwoofer doesn't have to run directional.
> I don't use a high pass filter on my setup because I've got 2x Jensen tower speakers (actually not that bad honestly), running off my DTA-100a. I get extension down to about 32Hz or so. So I don't even need a sub. Obviously with smaller bookshelfs you are correct though. However you do still want them to put out down to around 70Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe its OK as long as it reaches ~100hz. At least that's what I remember reading several places. Above that you begin to be able to locate the sub.
> 
> There's also a point of diminishing returns because the distortion in [most of] the small ~5" speakers in bookshelfs increases very quickly once you start to get into the lower frequencies.
Click to expand...

The magic number is actually 80Hz, not 100Hz....and it depends on the room and placement of the subwoofer. In my living room, my subwoofer is direcitonal until 60Hz or so (I can only guesstimate as I have 40Hz, 60Hz, 80Hz, and 100Hz low pass crossovers only). When I use the 80Hz low pass, I can tell exactly where the subwoofer is at. That could also be due to the roll off, I'm not 110% sure as I haven't tested it too terribly much. I set it and forgot it.

I do agree with you on the bookshelf comment though. Smaller drivers really aren't capable of low frequency output. However extending down to 60-70Hz or so SHOULD be more than feasable for any good bookshelf speaker, and retain quality sound. If it can't, you're either going to have a directional subwoofer, or you'll have a gap in mid bass.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> The magic number is actually 80Hz, not 100Hz....and it depends on the room and placement of the subwoofer. In my living room, my subwoofer is direcitonal until 60Hz or so (I can only guesstimate as I have 40Hz, 60Hz, 80Hz, and 100Hz low pass crossovers only). When I use the 80Hz low pass, I can tell exactly where the subwoofer is at. That could also be due to the roll off, I'm not 110% sure as I haven't tested it too terribly much. I set it and forgot it.
> I do agree with you on the bookshelf comment though. Smaller drivers really aren't capable of low frequency output. However extending down to 60-70Hz or so SHOULD be more than feasable for any good bookshelf speaker, and retain quality sound. If it can't, you're either going to have a directional subwoofer, or you'll have a gap in mid bass.


Keep in mind you can locate a speaker from the harmonics as well if they're loud enough


----------



## senna89

yes but what is the serious 2.0 system product around 120$ or similar with the strongest bass ?


----------



## lagittaja

I guess a mini amp with tripath chip + Dayton B652 pair would be a good choice.
Like Lepai ta2020a+ or smsl sa-36a etcetera

Noted by Noting from my Noteful Note


----------



## noname

What's up guys - with a new job i'll be getting some cash, and i'd like to grab a decent subwoofer for my system.

TCA Gizmo + ONIX Reference 0.5s -
Any suggestions (Cheaper the BetteR)


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noname*
> 
> What's up guys - with a new job i'll be getting some cash, and i'd like to grab a decent subwoofer for my system.
> TCA Gizmo + ONIX Reference 0.5s -
> Any suggestions (Cheaper the BetteR)


Hi stranger


----------



## noname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUDJ*
> 
> Hi stranger


Hey cutie - long time no see








Wanna help a noob out?


----------



## TUDJ

I'd love to, subwoofers aren't really my thing though. Hit up pioneerisloud, although he'll probably talk you into building your own


----------



## gorb

Just solve all your sub problems by getting a Seaton Submersive, Funk Audio 18.0, or JTR Captivator S2.


----------



## noname

Cool thanks bro - i was thinking maybe between 100-200 dollars... NOT 1000-2000


----------



## gorb

The only $200 subwoofer I will recommend is the Energy S10.3 (when it is on sale). It goes on sale at newegg often, from $199.99 to $239.99 or so.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb*
> 
> The only $200 subwoofer I will recommend is the Energy S10.3 (when it is on sale). It goes on sale at newegg often, from $199.99 to $239.99 or so.


BIC F12 is also a really good choice.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Build the Kraken. Your neighbors in a 5 mile radius will thank you.


----------



## Katcilla

I'm thinking of modifying my speaker setup, but I have a question or two before going ahead and doing it.
The OP says that Logitech speakers are excluded from entry to the club, the reasoning is perfectly fair on that, no complaints on that front.
I do actually currently have a Logitech X530 setup. I'll bring that up again in a bit.

I have owned, but not-too-often used(Main reasons being, I can't stand the radio stations around here, my cassette tapes are too worn to play properly, I have no music on Vinyl(







), and my Akai CD player is incredibly bad at reading disks(I plan to attempt to fix that eventually)), this Philips multifunction stereo/amp:



I have no idea what model the stereo is, there is no indication of model, year of manufacture, or anything of that sort.
I do know(through careful observation) that it plays Vinyl at 33-45RPM, two cassettes(recording from one to the other, or from other inputs), has auxiliary input for another device(the CD player), receives radio signal(derp)and is also able to amplify two speakers via RCA.
The speakers, however, are labeled as Philips SE-2B speakers, and describe their frequency response, which to be honest I don't have the expertise to know is good or bad, but they sound good to me, so I have a plan to fit them into my setup.
The X530 sub supports 5.1 but I currently only have the Front-Left and Front-Right speakers set up. I recently moved back home and I've been too lazy to set up the full system, partially because I was thinking of using my Philips speakers instead of the X530's Rear speakers, as the X530 also supplies audio via RCA.

My two questions are, would I be eligible for the club with this setup, or would the Logitech speakers still prevent me from entry?
I was also wondering if anyone knew anything about the stereo and speakers themselves. All I really know is what I've just written, and that they are about 20-ish years old, by estimation.

Thanks in advance for any help or information!


----------



## pioneerisloud

@Katcilla:
From what I can tell, you've got basically an older Philips bookshelf setup. It'd be comparable to say an AIWA or RCA bookshelf you can buy at Target or something. It's just a simple all in one unit, probably only 5-10w or so. As such, even those speakers are still not REAL speakers in most of our eyes.

Adding those to your X 530's, you've still got Logitech X 530's. Also, keep in mind that the X 530 amp probably won't power those speakers very well.

If you have any sort of audio budget, you can get a GREAT 2.0 setup on the cheap that'll sound a lot cleaner than your Logitech setup. Lepai TA2020 T amp is $25, and Dayton B652 bookshelf speakers are $30. Good 2.0 / 2.1 will sound a LOT better than crappy 5.1 any day. Remember that 5 crappy speakers, you've still got crappy speakers (no offense meant).


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> If you have any sort of audio budget, you can get a GREAT 2.0 setup on the cheap that'll sound a lot cleaner than your Logitech setup. Lepai TA2020 T amp is $25, and Dayton B652 bookshelf speakers are $30. Good 2.0 / 2.1 will sound a LOT better than crappy 5.1 any day.


I second this.

Also I highly recommend that Lepai amp.
I have one of those (TA2020A+ with 5A PSU) for my Wharfedale Diamond 10.2 pair and they sound much better than they did with my previous Pioneer VSX-519 low end receiver even though I use my motherboards integrated Realtek sound card instead of the optical output.

P.S. And to others I do plan on getting a proper DAC at somepoint








Money's a bit tight right now and I have an apartment to find so









Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Uhm, is this only for desktop speakers or is it all speakers? I've seen a lot of M-Audio and Genelec's on the desk.









Oh well, just got this setup finished, or i'm in need of some spikes for the speakers and of course a nice vinyl player for my little collection. :3
The difference from my KRK Rokit RP-5 is, well, the RP-5 i guess sounds neutral and these are more "nice" or what i should call it, but i sure love listening to these.

A pair of Canton GLE 490.2 with a Harman Kardon HK980/HD980 combo.


----------



## raptorxrx

Hey guys, I need some advice:

I'm looking on getting stands for my BIC DV62Si's to get them off my desk, but have no clue what to get. Style doesn't matter much, if it was about 3'6, the stand would be perfect. *The problem is, I don't know what to buy because I don't understand how they would attach to the speaker.*Do they screw in? I don't see any places to put it if so. This confuses me... Any advice?


----------



## tr8rjohnk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noname*
> 
> Cool thanks bro - i was thinking maybe between 100-200 dollars... NOT 1000-2000


I'd have to say BIC F12 or Definitive Technology Pro Sub 60 (my pick but ~$30 over budget at $229). The DefTech can often be found on Electronics Expo's site for $169 open box (once a month or so) and at that price its the clear winner (IMHO).


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Uhm, is this only for desktop speakers or is it all speakers? I've seen a lot of M-Audio and Genelec's on the desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh well, just got this setup finished, or i'm in need of some spikes for the speakers and of course a nice vinyl player for my little collection. :3
> The difference from my KRK Rokit RP-5 is, well, the RP-5 i guess sounds neutral and these are more "nice" or what i should call it, but i sure love listening to these.
> A pair of Canton GLE 490.2 with a Harman Kardon HK980/HD980 combo.


You're only allowed to join if we get a better pic of that AT-ST







.


----------



## Izvire

Rocking Behringer B2031P's, they sound pretty nice to me, considering the price.


----------



## AlbertMwugabi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> You're only allowed to join if we get a better pic of that AT-ST
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Here you go. Han wanted to assist me in promoting the AT-ST. But as always a darn ewok came and photobombing my picture.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlbertMwugabi*
> 
> Here you go. Han wanted to assist me in promoting the AT-ST. But as always a darn ewok came and photobombing my picture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You sir, are officially awesome







.


----------



## OverClocker55

Okay Corsair SP2200's crackle and fail when it comes to loud good music. I need to replace them. I sit about 1 foot away from my speakers and my desk is small so they can't be huge. Any tips?


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Okay Corsair SP2200's crackle and fail when it comes to loud good music. I need to replace them. I sit about 1 foot away from my speakers and my desk is small so they can't be huge. Any tips?


What bitrate is the music? Are you using any EQ settings to boost certain frequencies such as bass? My bet is on distortion caused by over-EQing or clipping from a low bitrate source.


----------



## OverClocker55

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUDJ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> Okay Corsair SP2200's crackle and fail when it comes to loud good music. I need to replace them. I sit about 1 foot away from my speakers and my desk is small so they can't be huge. Any tips?
> 
> 
> 
> What bitrate is the music? Are you using any EQ settings to boost certain frequencies such as bass? My bet is on distortion caused by over-EQing or clipping from a low bitrate source.
Click to expand...

its mostly my screamo songs from itunes that crackle. im noob so bitreate is out of my hands lol


----------



## McMogg

Hey Guys, I come with a question.

I am a little bit poor lately (or at least, I am wanting to save my money) but I want a bassier system.
I have an Onkyo CR-325UKD (and due to my budget, this is irreplaceable)
and two Eltax Monitor 3's (150W each.. apparently.)

I am in serious need of some bass.. I only have £120 to spend, I can stretch to a Cambridge Audio S80, but is it worth me getting that over getting, say, a second-hand pair of Floorstanders?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverClocker55*
> 
> its mostly my screamo songs from itunes that crackle. im noob so bitreate is out of my hands lol


Turn off the eq and see if it goes away. Also, does it happen with other music? Could be the recording.

Don't buy from itunes, buy the cd and rip it yourself. A little more expensive, but you get the full quality. If you only want a song or two, use amazon or something like that. Much better than putting itunes on my computer hahaha







. My 2 cents anyway







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMogg*
> 
> Hey Guys, I come with a question.
> I am a little bit poor lately (or at least, I am wanting to save my money) but I want a bassier system.
> I have an Onkyo CR-325UKD (and due to my budget, this is irreplaceable)
> and two Eltax Monitor 3's (150W each.. apparently.)
> I am in serious need of some bass.. I only have £120 to spend, I can stretch to a Cambridge Audio S80, but is it worth me getting that over getting, say, a second-hand pair of Floorstanders?


How do the monitors sound? Your money is probably best spent all on a sub. Idk your setup, but if you use them on your computer (nearfield), floorstanders are not ideal.


----------



## JdmKicks94

Hey guys, could you reccomend a 2.1 system for around $100? I'm not looking for anything amazing, I just need a decent pair of speakers for general use, as I use headphones for gaming and music. Thanks in advance


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JdmKicks94*
> 
> Hey guys, could you reccomend a 2.1 system for around $100? I'm not looking for anything amazing, I just need a decent pair of speakers for general use, as I use headphones for gaming and music. Thanks in advance


2.1? No. Get about $150-160 (or more), then yes.

2.0 with the ability to add a subwoofer later (and will beat "computer speakers").....absolutely.


----------



## JdmKicks94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> 2.1? No. Get about $150-160 (or more), then yes.
> 2.0 with the ability to add a subwoofer later (and will beat "computer speakers").....absolutely.


Could you give me an example of a good pair of 2.0 speakers and a subwoofer then? I can stretch my budget a little on the speakers, and then I can add the sub in when I have the money


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JdmKicks94*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> 2.1? No. Get about $150-160 (or more), then yes.
> 2.0 with the ability to add a subwoofer later (and will beat "computer speakers").....absolutely.
> 
> 
> 
> Could you give me an example of a good pair of 2.0 speakers and a subwoofer then? I can stretch my budget a little on the speakers, and then I can add the sub in when I have the money
Click to expand...

Lepai TA2020 T amp
Dayton B652 Bookshelfs

Add in however much 14-16 awg speaker wire you feel you'd need. And a good 6 foot 3.5mm to RCA cable. And you're good to go. Total price would be right around $70.

For a budget subwoofer, the Dayton SUB800, SUB1000, and SUB1200 are excellent choices (depends on size and frequency you're after).


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Lepai TA2020 T amp
> Dayton B652 Bookshelfs
> Add in however much 14-16 awg speaker wire you feel you'd need. And a good 6 foot 3.5mm to RCA cable. And you're good to go. Total price would be right around $70.
> For a budget subwoofer, the Dayton SUB800, SUB1000, and SUB1200 are excellent choices (depends on size and frequency you're after).


I new that was coming.


----------



## McMogg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> How do the monitors sound? Your money is probably best spent all on a sub. Idk your setup, but if you use them on your computer (nearfield), floorstanders are not ideal.


The Monitors are actually quite nice for treble and mids, but their bass is only acceptable when they're turned way up (and then, it's still overpowered by mids and treble)
I figured as much, I do use them for my computer, and I've always wanted a sub..

Any recommendations for a decent, cheap active subwoofer? I have £120-£140, but the Dayton range seems unavailable in the UK..


----------



## JdmKicks94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Lepai TA2020 T amp
> Dayton B652 Bookshelfs
> Add in however much 14-16 awg speaker wire you feel you'd need. And a good 6 foot 3.5mm to RCA cable. And you're good to go. Total price would be right around $70.
> For a budget subwoofer, the Dayton SUB800, SUB1000, and SUB1200 are excellent choices (depends on size and frequency you're after).


I've come in to some more money and can stretch my budget to $150, and I've been looking at the m-audio av40's. What would you reccoment between the setup you mentioned and the av40's? Thanks


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JdmKicks94*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Lepai TA2020 T amp
> Dayton B652 Bookshelfs
> Add in however much 14-16 awg speaker wire you feel you'd need. And a good 6 foot 3.5mm to RCA cable. And you're good to go. Total price would be right around $70.
> For a budget subwoofer, the Dayton SUB800, SUB1000, and SUB1200 are excellent choices (depends on size and frequency you're after).
> 
> 
> 
> I've come in to some more money and can stretch my budget to $150, and I've been looking at the m-audio av40's. What would you reccoment between the setup you mentioned and the av40's? Thanks
Click to expand...

The AV 40's are going to lack bass response below about 85Hz, which is a pretty large gap. I'd still recommend a T amp, bookshelfs, and a sub. You can always upgrade anything you want out of it later.


----------



## lagittaja

I concur with pioneerisloud :thumbup:
T amp and a pair of bookshelf speakers is the way to go.
Sure the AV-40's are nice but like he said, they lack the deeper bass and of course the fact that they're active speakers a.k.a. they have integrated amplifier which can fail prematurely and repairing it or changing it is a pita.
Decent pair of passive speakers will last MANY MANY YEARS.

Like the speaker pair I have, Diamond 10.2, have single 6.5" woofers and I don't even need to have my subwoofer (8" Audio Pro) hooked up. Sure with the Audio Pro I will have much deeper playback in movies and tighter response but configuring the crossover and such is a bit "difficult" with the integrated soundcard I have on my rig.

E: Is OP the one in charge of membership additions?

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Xyro TR1

Another vote for a good amp and bookshelf speakers. I hit in the 35Hz range without an issue with my setup _without_ the sub on. With it I can break stuff in the 22Hz range.

You just need to find some good stuff!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Another vote for a good amp and bookshelf speakers. I hit in the 35Hz range without an issue with my setup _without_ the sub on. With it I can break stuff in the 22Hz range.
> 
> You just need to find some good stuff!


I hit down to just right above 30Hz (haven't fully tested), without a sub, on my PC setup. I use tower speakers though.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I hit down to just right above 30Hz (haven't fully tested), without a sub, on my PC setup. I use tower speakers though.


I rapidly lose response right below 36Hz, sadly. I can move air at 30Hz, but no sound!









I do love your towers.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Back again <_<

So yeah, the Dayton's are sold out everywhere and the few places that do have them are entirely too expensive for what they are.

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS21-LR-Watt-2-Way-Speaker/dp/B004MEWZE4/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1340340751&sr=1-14&keywords=bookshelf+speakers

Newegg has these for 50 bucks. Paired with an amp would you think these are decent?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Back again <_<
> 
> So yeah, the Dayton's are sold out everywhere and the few places that do have them are entirely too expensive for what they are.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-SP-BS21-LR-Watt-2-Way-Speaker/dp/B004MEWZE4/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1340340751&sr=1-14&keywords=bookshelf+speakers
> 
> Newegg has these for 50 bucks. Paired with an amp would you think these are decent?


My screenname has absolutely nothing to do with the following statement....

But yes, at $50 those are very excellent and supposedly natural sounding speakers. I've been wanting to get my hands on a pair for quite a while.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> My screenname has absolutely nothing to do with the following statement....
> But yes, at $50 those are very excellent and supposedly natural sounding speakers. I've been wanting to get my hands on a pair for quite a while.


No doubt. I've just been on the edge because parts-expresses a has a dayton/amp combo for 60 bucks I should have invested in a long time ago.

Would you say the t-amp 2020 you listed a page back would pair well with it?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> My screenname has absolutely nothing to do with the following statement....
> But yes, at $50 those are very excellent and supposedly natural sounding speakers. I've been wanting to get my hands on a pair for quite a while.
> 
> 
> 
> No doubt. I've just been on the edge because parts-expresses a has a dayton/amp combo for 60 bucks I should have invested in a long time ago.
> 
> Would you say the t-amp 2020 you listed a page back would pair well with it?
Click to expand...

Yes, the Lepai TA2020 is a solid little budget T amp, only outclassed by the DTA-100a (here in the states), and after that its receiver time (or other amp).


----------



## lagittaja

Just gonna leave this here












That's with the 2A psu. With simple mods this little amp can be amazing.
Bigger power cap, replacing output inductors and so on and so on, turn on/off pop surpression.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## axipher

These little amps look so nice, but I would miss my receiver too much.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> These little amps look so nice, but I would miss my receiver too much.


I don't miss my receiver


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> These little amps look so nice, but I would miss my receiver too much.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't miss my receiver
Click to expand...

I like being able to switch between Speaker A and B and Headphones, and switch between 5 inputs.

I might consider picking up a mini amp for my headphones though for when I'm on the road with my laptop.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Quote: Originally Posted by lagittaja Quote: Originally Posted by axipher These little amps look so nice, but I would miss my receiver too much. I don't miss my receiver I like being able to switch between Speaker A and B and Headphones, and switch between 5 inputs. I might consider picking up a mini amp for my headphones though for when I'm on the road with my laptop.


Yeah well that is true. Thankfully I don't have any high end headphones nor do I regularly use headphones so missing the proper 6.5mm headphone jack ain't big of a deal.
Neither do I have multiple audio sources so a basic T amp is all I need right now.
That will change after I get myself a decent apartment and job after my military service.
But you do know that there are T amps out there with headphone jacks?

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Xyro TR1

Posting in here to say I forgot how amazing my audio system sounds. Currently working it as hard as I can. Can't stop smiling.

It's amazing the sound you can get with very little money and quite a bit of looking.


----------



## raptorxrx

Quote:


> It's amazing the sound you can get with very little money


agreed


----------



## MarvinDessica

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882117405

Ordered them finally. They were burning holes in me pocket I tell ya!

Obviously parts express is out of the t-amp and I'm going to order it elsewhere. What are some mods (While keeping it up 50 bucks) do you recommend?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882117405
> Ordered them finally. They were burning holes in me pocket I tell ya!
> Obviously parts express is out of the t-amp and I'm going to order it elsewhere. What are some mods (While keeping it up 50 bucks) do you recommend?


Fill your room with this.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Obviously parts express is out of the t-amp and I'm going to order it elsewhere. What are some mods (While keeping it up 50 bucks) do you recommend?


http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/Amplifier:Lepai_T_Amp

Replacing the biggest capacitor (power input). Replacing sound output inductors. Add pop surpression.
Those are the biggest things you want to do.
A little bit of soldering skill is required. Cost depends completely on how much you wanna spend.

Here's the stock layout. See the big capacitor on the left? That's the one you want to replace. Then erm centerish of the board, see those black round things which say *100. on top of them? They are the inductors, you want to replace those, at least the L2/L3/L4/L5 as said on the diyaudio.com but I see no problem in replacing all 5 of them.
Also if you want to, then you can replace all of the capacitors on the board with some quality caps, like Nippon ChemiCon or similar. Just see their rating and find a equilevant.


E: Oh and I forgot. This is the pop surpression


Here's some more info
http://techtalk.parts-express.com/showthread.php?226235-Modding-the-Lepai-T2020A


----------



## Ardalista

Hi all,

Wondering if my humble setup would allow me to become part of the club... when not using my cans for gaming, I use my Sony BDV E370 Home Theatre via toslink to disturb my neighbours with the music they should learn to embrace


----------



## Neet_za

So anyone in or out of South Africa, know where i can get/buy speaker drivers for custom build i want to do, and also maybe some electronics that I can build small post/pre-amp integrated into each speaker box with a crossover of course, also the drivers must be easy to drive, so 2~4 ohms, but have some kick for their size, thanks

1x5~7" sub @ 2/4ohms

2x3~5" subs + 0.5~2" tweeters @ 2/4ohms


----------



## bobfig

i have used

http://www.parts-express.com/
http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/


----------



## r3skyline

going to be joining soon. but only after i convert my m-audio av30 from active to passive so i can use with my pioneer sx750.







then ill prob add the DA Sub1k soon. but probably later. dont need too much bass for now, haha

UPDATE : MOD COMPLETE

av30 active -> passive now. i feel like they sound so much more full than they did before with the internal amps.


----------



## drjoey1500

Why would you choose passive over active







.

How did you design the crossover?


----------



## r3skyline

it would have been a big mess if i wanted to use the av30 (active) with a sub + my vintage receiver. so i just used the passive system on the av30. (i just bypassed the amp on the av30)

BUUUUT, i think my son just blew the crossover. haha. so now i have to go out and get new speakers. lol

UPDATE :

Replaced my av30s with Mission MS-50s


----------



## Face76

Tannoy Revolution DC4 for desktop duty, the rest are DIY.


----------



## Interpolation

*UPDATE: Added a pair of Cerwin Vega XLS-6's.*


----------



## r3skyline

fixed my av30s by modifying the existing crossover. was pretty easy. so now have mission ms50, passive av30 (sound really good too!) and infinity rs225.

pioneer sx 750 and mcs 3210


----------



## newpc

hey guys,

was thinking of buying active speakers, the m-audio bx5 d2's,

atm i have some tall crappy sony's and a sherwood reciever (model RD 7106)

so i ditch it and buy the actives or just upgrade speakers?

the specs for my reciever is - LINK


----------



## lagittaja

If I were you I'd keep using that receiver and buy new passive speakers.
In my books separate amp and speakers is always better. Since speakers just simply last. An amp may die but speakers just keep on working, unless you torment them all the time in distortion levels which may shorten the lifespan off the voice coil etc.
If the amp from an active speaker dies, it such a hassle to replace and I doubt you can always find a matching replacement.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## r3skyline

or you can just turn an active speaker into passive when it dies.


----------



## drjoey1500

Or replace the amps. Active is better, you just need two amps.


----------



## newpc

would anyone like to recommend some passive speakers? bare in mind im in australia, and prices differ ALOT. budget of 300ish.

abit of base would be good in them, will be adding a power sub soon, i do have a small passive one atm though.


----------



## Skoobs

i have 4 Polk Audio RTiA1 Bookshelfs and a CSiA4 Center Channel hooked up to an Onkyo receiver hooked up to my computer by an optical connection.

oh, and a Klipsch RW-12d Subwoofer as well as an Onkyo SKW-204 10in for midbass. when i find the time i will be building a crossover for these so that the 10 wont be trying to play the lows, and i can set the crossover frequency on the Klipsch to a lower frequency. it kind of sucks for midbass.


----------



## lagittaja

I'll order another TA2020A+ from ebay soon.
I'll order some Nichicon caps as well and I gotta do some research on what inductors I need and some parts for the pop surpression.
For the caps I'll probably get FW series 10000uF 16V to replace the biggest cap and for the other smaller caps I'll get some FG series (idk what sizes yet)
Gotta go buy a new soldering station as well..

Reason for getting another Lepai is that if I manage to break it while modding then I'll still have my original one








If I don't break it and it actually works then I can do some proper comparisons and then after that I can mod the other one and either sell it for profit or something.

I'm also debating about a new sound card or dac/headphone amp.
I have to options in my mind.
Xonar Essence STX (~175€ here in Finland) or Audinst HUD-MX1 (~182€ including VAT from South Korea)
With the Audinst I'll have the option to use it as a headphone amp and when I want to listen to my speakers I can just flip a switch and the signal goes to RCA out and into my Lepai.
Of course the STX also has headphone amp but I'm planning on getting proper cans which aren't that easy to drive so the Audinst would be better. + it's portable ish so yeah.
Also Head-Fi'ers seem to like it.

Sent from my Galaxy Note


----------



## pioneerisloud

I haven't modded an amplifier before, what are those going to do to it exactly?


----------



## lagittaja

Well the biggest capacitor is related to power input, it's pretty much for preloading the amp for enough juice so it doesn't uhm run out. Like with car hifi, bumping bass really hard and you don't have enough juice what happens? Bass fades until cap has recharged itself.
" Recommended replacement, the biggest value you can find, at least 4700uF 16V, it's recommended to get a low ERS one. Some people also recommends putting another small capacitor (200nF for example) in parallel, to help filtering the irregularities from power source.

What will improve: general improvement, deeper bass response, and could help with switch-off caused at high volume with low current power sources."

The other smaller caps don't effect much but it's mainly a cosmetic or between the ears replacement, would you like to have Crapxon or other really low quality caps on your precious motherboard or power supply or on any electronic equipment for that matter?

The sound output inductors affect the sound a lot, at least from what I've read. Diyaudio wiki page says
" The output inductors on tripath based amplifiers play a big role on in the sound quality. Tripath docs and the majority of users here on diyaudio agree that by choosing the right inductors you will certainly improve the sound quality and this may put your tripath based amplifier on another league.

On the Tripath based amplifier produced by lepai it happens that almost any inductor rated 10uH 3.8A is better than the stock ones ."

The pop surpression is pretty self explanatory. You know when you turn on a receiver and it takes a few seconds for it to actually turn on and start playing music, when it's turned on you hear that distinct click sound?
That's pretty much a pop surpression and it also gives the amp few seconds to charge the caps properly. With the lepai you have a HORRIBLE pop when you turn it on, idk what causes it but a pop can damage speakers. Especially if I have left the volume knob a tad high on my Lepai I can actually freaking see the woofers of my Wharfedale's literally BOUNCE..


----------



## pioneerisloud

Interesting. I'm not that worried about the input capacitors on mine. Mine's been running a 2ohm load in the car, tuned in (with my multimeter) at about 25w RMS per channel for months now. Since I've got a great battery setup, it doesn't have a lack of input voltage. And I have never heard a pop when it turns on. Must be because I have a slightly older model perhaps, I don't know.

Interesting things to learn though.







Thank you.


----------



## r3skyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Or replace the amps. Active is better, you just need two amps.


active better...but yet.... no top name brand uses active speakers in home theater set ups...yea, active is so much better than passive









i guess my paradigm monitor 11s would be better if they were active *sigh


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Well the biggest capacitor is related to power input, it's pretty much for preloading the amp for enough juice so it doesn't uhm run out. Like with car hifi, bumping bass really hard and you don't have enough juice what happens? Bass fades until cap has recharged itself.
> " Recommended replacement, the biggest value you can find, at least 4700uF 16V, it's recommended to get a low ERS one. Some people also recommends putting another small capacitor (200nF for example) in parallel, to help filtering the irregularities from power source.
> What will improve: general improvement, deeper bass response, and could help with switch-off caused at high volume with low current power sources."


I'm not familiar with that particular amp, but a drastic change in the PS filter cap size can cause problems, such as blowing out the rectifier.

Bypassing the PS cap with a smaller cap(usually 10%) helps clean up any ripple.


----------



## Sazexa

Am I allowed into the club? ;]

My audio setup consists of:
Denon AVR-1312
Polk Audio Series II Monitor 40's
Polk Audio PSW110 subwoofer
(For late-night listening) V-Moda Crossfade LP's
And hopefully soon, an ASUS Xonar Essence STX.

I'll post a picture once the desktop is fixed. Waiting for some RMA parts on it.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> I'm not familiar with that particular amp, but a drastic change in the PS filter cap size can cause problems, such as blowing out the rectifier.
> Bypassing the PS cap with a smaller cap(usually 10%) helps clean up any ripple.


I think it looks like this.










My bad, that is my Adcom GFA 555.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> I think it looks like this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My bad, that is my Adcom GFA 555.


That's a beast of an amp.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> *I'm not familiar with that particular amp*, but a drastic change in the PS filter cap size can cause problems, such as blowing out the rectifier.
> Bypassing the PS cap with a smaller cap(usually 10%) helps clean up any ripple.


Well reading on the massive DIYAudio thread on the Lepai TA2020A+ I didn't see anyone reporting problems.
The PSU I have is okayish regarding ripple, I'm planning on replacing it at somepoint but it will have to do for now.


----------



## newpc

hey guys,

quick questions, im running onboard sound SPDIF>receiver, was wondering if i should get / need a soundcard.

planning to get a USB DAC for my headphones


----------



## Face76

As long as your mobo has an optical out, then there's no need.


----------



## newpc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> As long as your mobo has an optical out, then there's no need.


ah awesome, saves me some moneys







. will use that for a DAC/AMP for my headphones then.

thanks


----------



## Sazexa

Well, no, you don't. But you could consider getting a soundcard with a high end DAC built in, like the Essence ST(X), and run RCA to the receiver and use the headphone amp. The software has a quick way to switch between audio outputs, I believe.

But if you're content with your receiver's DAC, than a USB one for headphones will do perfectly fine.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newpc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> As long as your mobo has an optical out, then there's no need.
> 
> 
> 
> ah awesome, saves me some moneys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . will use that for a DAC/AMP for my headphones then.
> 
> thanks
Click to expand...

I user my receiver's 1/4 headphone output with a 1/4 > 1/8 adapter to power my headphones. Sounds way better than even my Xonar DG's headphone mode.


----------



## Blindsay

Id like to join










Polk Monitor 70s front, CS2 Center, Monitor 40s rear

Currently powered by my Onkyo 806, Looking to get an Emotiva Power amp soon (not sure which yet)


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Id like to join
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Polk Monitor 70s front, CS2 Center, Monitor 40s rear
> Currently powered by my Onkyo 806, Looking to get an Emotiva Power amp soon (not sure which yet)


How is the bass on the 70's? I've been considering getting them. I have a sub now if they're lacking, just curious. My 40's had punchy bass, but not really deep resonating bass output. So I paired the 40's with a PSW110.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> How is the bass on the 70's? I've been considering getting them. I have a sub now if they're lacking, just curious. My 40's had punchy bass, but not really deep resonating bass output. So I paired the 40's with a PSW110.


The bass is a lot better then the 40s thats for sure, but i still would want to run a sub with them, I forgot to mention it in my last post but i run a Klipsch Sub12 with them


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> The bass is a lot better then the 40s thats for sure, but i still would want to run a sub with them, I forgot to mention it in my last post but i run a Klipsch Sub12 with them


Interesting. I'd really like to get 70's for front, 40's for surround, and a CS1 for center... But I can't afford that haha. Looks pretty awesome though.

Also, my 40's have the newer, black/gray covers.around the speakers. I wonder if there is any difference in performance between the original series II and the "newer" Series II.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Interesting. I'd really like to get 70's for front, 40's for surround, and a CS1 for center... But I can't afford that haha. Looks pretty awesome though.
> Also, my 40's have the newer, black/gray covers.around the speakers. I wonder if there is any difference in performance between the original series II and the "newer" Series II.


http://www.avsforum.com/t/1269979/polk-monitor-series-1-or-2

Doesnt sound like any difference other than cosmetics.

i think i have seen the Monitor 70s go for like $180 each. You would want the CS2 center though as thats the one that matches the 70s


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r3skyline*
> 
> active better...but yet.... no top name brand uses active speakers in home theater set ups...yea, active is so much better than passive
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i guess my paradigm monitor 11s would be better if they were active *sigh


You're right, home speakers are so much better than studio monitors


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1269979/polk-monitor-series-1-or-2
> Doesnt sound like any difference other than cosmetics.
> i think i have seen the Monitor 70s go for like $180 each. You would want the CS2 center though as thats the one that matches the 70s


Occasionally Newegg offers them to me for $200 each, no shipping. But I still don't have the expendable money ( or even available space) to get these at the moment.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Occasionally Newegg offers them to me for $200 each, no shipping. But I still don't have the expendable money ( or even available space) to get these at the moment.


http://stores.ebay.com/Polk-Audio-Direct

I got my LSi9's here. I also have Monitor 70's and a CS2 in another room that I bought from newegg.


----------



## r3skyline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Id like to join
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Polk Monitor 70s front, CS2 Center, Monitor 40s rear
> Currently powered by my Onkyo 806, Looking to get an Emotiva Power amp soon (not sure which yet)


emotiva upa-2

if you can find it.

and emotiva xpa-3 for center and rears. just cause its awesome.

what kind of projector are you using? im still trying to find a decent priced jvc rs55...i need to upgrade my rs15. haha


----------



## SlyFox

XPA-3 for Fronts and Center. Let the receiver power the backs.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlyFox*
> 
> XPA-3 for Fronts and Center. Let the receiver power the backs.


I have an Onkyo 808 as a pre and powering a pair of Polk T15's for surround duty.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r3skyline*
> 
> emotiva upa-2
> if you can find it.
> and emotiva xpa-3 for center and rears. just cause its awesome.
> what kind of projector are you using? im still trying to find a decent priced jvc rs55...i need to upgrade my rs15. haha


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlyFox*
> 
> XPA-3 for Fronts and Center. Let the receiver power the backs.


I was leaning towards the XPA-3 for the front 3 but the XPA-2 is nasty i and do a lot of 2 channel music on it so im torn there.

r3skyline, currently i have the Epson 8350, but im thinking about upgrading to the 5010 soon


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> I was leaning towards the XPA-3 for the front 3 but the XPA-2 is nasty i and do a lot of 2 channel music on it so im torn there.
> r3skyline, currently i have the Epson 8350, but im thinking about upgrading to the 5010 soon


If you already have an XPA-2, use it for your surrounds and the XPA-3 for the front three.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> If you already have an XPA-2, use it for your surrounds and the XPA-3 for the front three.


I dont already have it, and if i did, it would be a crime to use it on my surrounds lol


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> I dont already have it, and if i did, it would be a crime to use it on my surrounds lol


There's nothing wrong with a little headroom.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> I dont already have it, and if i did, it would be a crime to use it on my surrounds lol


I used to run the system below with my the same front 3 speakers that you have. The Adcom 5400 was bridged then on the CS2. Good luck with your upgades.









AVR-Onyo TX-NR808
Front amp-Adcom GFA 555>Polk LSi9's
Center amp-Adcom GFA 5400>Polk LSi9 bi-amped
Surrounds-Polk T15's


----------



## Face76

My Tannoy Revolution DC4's.


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> If you already have an XPA-2, use it for your surrounds and the XPA-3 for the front three.


Backwards. The mains should get the XPA-2. One channel from the XPA-3 to the center and the other two channels for the surrounds.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb*
> 
> Backwards. The mains should get the XPA-2. One channel from the XPA-3 to the center and the other two channels for the surrounds.


Either or would work, and to be honest, I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> Either or would work, and to be honest, I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference.


I bet you could, the XPA-2 is a step above the XPA-3, its not just 2 channel vs 3 channel amp, its a better 2 channel vs a 3 channel amp


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> Either or would work, and to be honest, I doubt you'd be able to tell the difference.


I don't think you would be able to tell the difference either unless you had really inefficient/low sensitivity speakers...but if you are going with external amplification, you may as well do it in a way that makes sense


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb*
> 
> I don't think you would be able to tell the difference either unless you had really inefficient/low sensitivity speakers...but if you are going with external amplification, you may as well do it in a way that makes sense


Ok, you have me there.


----------



## Ferling Design

noob speaker question :]

If i wanted to avoid using an amp or reciever could an active powered sub such as this SUB possibly power my 2x 4" -4ohm passive 3-way shelf speakers though the speaker out terminals on the sub?

of course with the line in audio coming from my pc to the sub...

Edit: If this is not possible than if i were to use this class t AMP just for the passive speakers, how would this be wired including the sub i chose?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> noob speaker question :]
> 
> If i wanted to avoid using an amp or reciever could an active powered sub such as this SUB possibly power my 2x 4" -4ohm passive 3-way shelf speakers though the speaker out terminals on the sub?
> 
> of course with the line in audio coming from my pc to the sub...


No. In order to power speakers, they require SOME form of amplifier. The difference between active and passive is that active speakers have the amplifier built into them, passives do not (and its bought seperately).

The speaker line outputs on a subwoofer ONLY work if you're feeding that subwoofer amplified speaker line inputs as a signal, instead of RCA. They just pass that amplified speaker signal from the amp, into the sub, and then back out through to your speakers.

So no, either way you need an amplifier to power them. Just grab a Lepai TA2020, its like $25.

EDIT:
And seriously, don't get that horrible subwoofer. If you have $120 to spend, grab a SUB800 or SUB1000 from Dayton, and the $25 Lepai TA2020 T amp. If you can spend a tad more, shoot for the SUB1200 (note its quite large). That Polk PSW10 is absolutely horrible for the money.


----------



## Ferling Design

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> No. In order to power speakers, they require SOME form of amplifier. The difference between active and passive is that active speakers have the amplifier built into them, passives do not (and its bought seperately).
> The speaker line outputs on a subwoofer ONLY work if you're feeding that subwoofer amplified speaker line inputs as a signal, instead of RCA. They just pass that amplified speaker signal from the amp, into the sub, and then back out through to your speakers.
> So no, either way you need an amplifier to power them. Just grab a Lepai TA2020, its like $25.
> EDIT:
> And seriously, don't get that horrible subwoofer. If you have $120 to spend, grab a SUB800 or SUB1000 from Dayton, and the $25 Lepai TA2020 T amp. If you can spend a tad more, shoot for the SUB1200 (note its quite large). That Polk PSW10 is absolutely horrible for the money.






Thanks for the quick reply, i just seen that amp not too long ago before reading this









so if i were to get that amp and the sub i would wire the the pc audio into the amp than the amp speaker wire to the inputs on the sub terminals than from the sub to the shelf speakers?

i might just get a 2.1 pc speaker system to avoid all the wiring and power consumption.









edit: thanks i will not get that sub


----------



## pioneerisloud

Yes sir, you have the wiring correct. And its not going to take more power. An amplifier is only going to take power as it needs it (when you have it turned up and playing). Otherwise its just a very VERY minor bit of power consumption, mostly the LED's.

It'd be worth it to piece something together the right way, rather than buying a pre made 2.1 set honestly. You'll get a LOT better sound output.


----------



## lagittaja

Well ordered the another Lepai on Friday and ordered couple RCA cables as well. Found some nicely priced Techlink cables, product # is 640039 and I suppose it's decent enough.
10meter 2x RCA male -> 2x RCA male.
Product page @ Jimm's says (loosely translated)
Quote:


> Wires1st series properties:
> * Shielded oxygenless coppercable
> * Nickel-plated connectors
> * Aluminium foil shielding and as well polyethylene insulation
> * What Plasma and LCD TV Annual Awards, 2006-2007: Best Cable Brand of the Year 2007


I got a 3meter antenna cable coming in from the same series as well (#640113)

If someone wonder's where I need those:
1st cable goes from Audinst HUD-MX1 DAC/HP-AMP RCA out *->* Audio Pro Sub B1.20 Line IN
2nd cable goes from Audio Pro Sub B1.20 Line out *->* Lepai

I WAS planning on just getting a Xonar Essence STX but then I was doing some research on headphones and DACs/AMPs and came across the Audinst. Damn amazing product.
And it's pretty portable, it comes with a wall wart but from the reviews I have read, it works just fine with the power from the USB only. So less clutter on my desk w00t.
It's a USB DAC and a headphone amplifier WITH line out. So with a flip of a switch I can either listen to headphones or if I want to listen to my speakers I can just flip the switch









Now guys, I'd need some help finding a product for me.
What I would need is a RCA splitter with a switch function. Now I found a three way RCA switch from Amazon.de but it's *3x 3 RCA INPUT 1x 3 RCA OUTPUT* but I would need *1x 2/3 RCA INPUT 2x 2/3 RCA OUTPUT* or *1x 2/3 RCA INPUT 3x 2/3 RCA OUTPUT*.
Why do I need it? In the future I will buy a better headphone amplifier. I would like to keep using the Audinst as a DAC for my Lepai and the future HP-AMP but it (Audinst) only has one RCA out.


----------



## axipher

Three questions on signals:

1) When splitting RCA signals, do you need a special box, or will the RCA connectors with a male end on one side and a dual male/female end on the other side work perfectly fine? I'm going to be setting up a two-room system with a shared wall and just piggy-backing the RCA signal from my sound card from one input to the other on the two receivers.

2) When sending signals to ac active sub-woofer/speaker/monitor, is it better to use RCA, or line level signals. I ask because my main amp, the Denon 2808 doesn't have the easiest control over the bass levels on-the-fly so I would like to use my older Hitachi receiver as a middle man between the Denon's RCA Pre-out and my active sub-woofer to control the bass level.

3) When choosing speaker wire gauge, what are you looking for? I'm well-versed in choosing cable size for up to 1000 HP electrical motors, but when it comes to speaker systems, I have no idea how to size them so I've just been running 16 AWG for everything.


----------



## Sazexa

Finally got a picture of my speakers and little set-up.
Am I in now? ;]


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Three questions on signals:
> 
> 1) When splitting RCA signals, do you need a special box, or will the RCA connectors with a male end on one side and a dual male/female end on the other side work perfectly fine? I'm going to be setting up a two-room system with a shared wall and just piggy-backing the RCA signal from my sound card from one input to the other on the two receivers.
> 
> 2) When sending signals to ac active sub-woofer/speaker/monitor, is it better to use RCA, or line level signals. I ask because my main amp, the Denon 2808 doesn't have the easiest control over the bass levels on-the-fly so I would like to use my older Hitachi receiver as a middle man between the Denon's RCA Pre-out and my active sub-woofer to control the bass level.
> 
> 3) When choosing speaker wire gauge, what are you looking for? I'm well-versed in choosing cable size for up to 1000 HP electrical motors, but when it comes to speaker systems, I have no idea how to size them so I've just been running 16 AWG for everything.


1. Yes, a simple splitters are enough for your needs.
3. I use 2.5mm^2 which is surely more than enough for the average Joe http://www.bulkwire.com/wiregauge.asp
E: For my own setup I bought 1.5mm^2 and then bi-wired my speakers so I'm basically running 3.0mm^2 which is a tad too thick for the Lepai amp's crappy spring loaded binding posts LOL, I seriously gotta replace them with something else








But imo, 1.5mm^2 or 2.5mm^2 or similar is enough, if you're running like really long distances then I'd look at a tad thicker cables.
Couple days ago I changed the speaker cables to my mom's setup, GenExxa GX1000 towers (~90's) and Sony STR-GX311 from the mid 80's.

Anyway, old cable was 0.75mm^2 and at least 15years old, copper a bit oxidized on the exposed ends but otherwise it didn't look like it was old, only the rubber/plasticy/whatever coating had lost it's shine. I think it was 4 conductor.
New cables are 2.5mm^2 and if I counted correctly it's 8 conductor.



Any difference? It looks better 

Inb4 some cable fanatic comes yelling BLASPHEMY with foam in his/her mouth


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Finally got a picture of my speakers and little set-up.
> Am I in now? ;]


That's big desk.







Just saying with Polk Monitor 40's on it...

This thread needs someone to do updates.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> That's big desk.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just saying with Polk Monitor 40's on it...
> This thread needs someone to do updates.


It was a cheap desk, from ikea. About 60" wide. It also has a little shelf type spacing where it holds all the wiring. I've been in love with this desk since day one.


----------



## pangolinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> My Tannoy Revolution DC4's.


What music software is that?


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pangolinman*
> 
> What music software is that?


J. River in Theater view/mode.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Now guys, I'd need some help finding a product for me.
> What I would need is a RCA splitter with a switch function. Now I found a three way RCA switch from Amazon.de but it's *3x 3 RCA INPUT 1x 3 RCA OUTPUT* but I would need *1x 2/3 RCA INPUT 2x 2/3 RCA OUTPUT* or *1x 2/3 RCA INPUT 3x 2/3 RCA OUTPUT*.
> Why do I need it? In the future I will buy a better headphone amplifier. I would like to keep using the Audinst as a DAC for my Lepai and the future HP-AMP but it (Audinst) only has one RCA out.


Oh yeah, now I found it, thanks to 'm K o' @MuroBBS

http://www.spelektroniikka.fi/tuotteet/elektroniikka-elektroniikan-uutuudet-ja-vanhuudet/audio-input-valitsin-aswitch-3-103275

Sent from my Galaxy Note


----------



## Crizume

This thread and OCN most recommended cause me to upgrade to a 2.1 setup with room for expansion.

I love the sound for music, the clarity of everything while gaming, and the bass during explosions and shots is beautiful.

However its also a problem. At loud settings the bass causes my mouse to move causing horrible aiming in FPS (no a problem in mmo's and other games). I end up turning the bass off and just playing with the speakers.

Can this be a cause of bad bass placement or is it just the nature of the beast. What have you guys done to resolve this or do I need to change some settings.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crizume*
> 
> This thread and OCN most recommended cause me to upgrade to a 2.1 setup with room for expansion.
> I love the sound for music, the clarity of everything while gaming, and the bass during explosions and shots is beautiful.
> However its also a problem. At loud settings the bass causes my mouse to move causing horrible aiming in FPS (no a problem in mmo's and other games). I end up turning the bass off and just playing with the speakers.
> Can this be a cause of bad bass placement or is it just the nature of the beast. What have you guys done to resolve this or do I need to change some settings.


Mouse sensitivity is probably too high. Music volume is probably too loud. Also, if your subwoofer is under, or next to, your desk... Make sure it's not actually touching the desk.The thickness and weight of your desk might affect it too. I used to have a slightly wobbly desk, and with a crappy logitech sub woofer the mouse would move sometimes. Now with my thicker desk, (and even more powerful subwoofer) my mouse doesn't move when the volume is up loud.


----------



## lagittaja

Oh wow, my plans have changed, AGAIN. What a surprise. It's annoying actually. But it's not so bad.

So, long story short.
I've been looking for an apartment for a while and in the mean time I have stayed at my mom's. And all my stuff has been stored.
Well now we have decided that I'd actually move here for at least till next fall since I haven't been able to find an apartment and I got my military service coming up next January so finding my own apartment is kinda pointless, she has room and so on so why not.

Well, I gotta buy myself some stuff from Ikea since it's on our route. New bed (the spare bed she has is like 8yrs old and really just horrible), new table top and legs so I can has mah compuutar somewhere and a proper chair to go along with it. I'll get some speaker stands as well from Hifikulma since I want to use my Wharfedale's and Audio Pro sub instead of those early 90's horrid floorstanders, I got my eyes set on the Atacama Nexus 6i's, any of you have experience with those?

So if you bothered to read all that, I faced a problem.
How the heck am I gonna have my HTPC, my main rig and tv all connected easily?
The Lepai I have only has one input and a rca switch would be okay but onboard sound is a no go,I could get new sound cards but still the switch is a bit awkward and well rca is still vulnerable to interference.
So how reluctant it is to me I'll return back to the world of A/V receivers.
I already decided that Marantz NR1602 shipped from Germany for 415€ would be my best bet.
I can have both my rigs connected with HDMI and audio from TV will go through optical since it's an older model and doesn't have HDMI 1.4.
The Marantz has DLNA and internet radio and audio from USB thumb drive support AND(!!) I can control it through my Android phone so yeah, pure win.
Won't need to have neither of my rigs turned on if I want to listen to some music (lower ambient temp)

But I can't buy it until next month since most of my budget will go to the stuff from Ikea and the stands and even though I live with my parent I still do have bills to pay lol.

I'll probably set up the Wharfe's and Lepai only with my HTPC for the time being and when I get the receiver I can setup all those with ease.

P.S. She'll be mad at me: "What?! I have to learn to use ANOTHER REMOTE??"
Little does she know that I plan to get a Harmony One remote in the future, October maybe.
I can already imagine her face when she gets to use it. The simpler the better amirite?

Sent from my Galaxy Note


----------



## Webrider99

Do you need to post pics to join?... If not I have a JVC RX-817V powering a set of JVC bookshelves on my desk (SP-C33BK's) and i have two large towers behind me Acoustic Profile (PSL 88.6's) They're an old Vancouver company that died out in 2000 ish ... made some pretty good speakers though... I have a Velodyne DPS-12 Sub, that i used to have hooked up with my Harman/Kardon AVR 135 but i swapped it with the JVC ... I think these meet the standards? I'll post pics if needed. I''m hoping to upgrade to some Cerwin Vega XLS 215's or something like that in the next couple of years...


----------



## lagittaja

No one is even updating the member list.. Last edit was last year..
I have been asking about that for a long time but no one bothers to respond. Crappy club if you ask me, but a wonderful thread though.


----------



## gorb

the list doesn't matter...it's just a nice thread to talk about speakers and stuff


----------



## Webrider99

Hmm well that sucks :S Guess I won't be joining...


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Webrider99*
> 
> Hmm well that sucks :S Guess I won't be joining...


Lol I never even look at the first page, I think only one pair of mine is on there. I couldn't care less







. Just subscribe and we'll consider you part of the club







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb*
> 
> the list doesn't matter...it's just a nice thread to talk about speakers and stuff


Exactly.


----------



## Maliken

Got the AudioEngine A5+


----------



## notyettoday

KLH Rave-12's Connected to a Sony STR-DE685 Receiver. They're ~11 years old but still rock the house. Sufficient for me to join?


----------



## lagittaja

I finally have everything setup. Still got to sort couple of boxes but otherwise I'm done.
I love these Norstone Stylum 2 stands








A major pain in the butt to assemble and to move/slide on the floor when assembled but they're freaking gorgeous and so sturdy.
I'll snap a picture when I have time


----------



## GTX670




----------



## Sazexa

GTX670, subwoofers belong on the floor, my friend


----------



## 66racer

Hey guys rookie question but I'm eventually hoping to get a more audiophile 5.1 to replace my z5500, I'm working with a xonar dx and gaming is main priority with some music as second while web browsing.

Can you guys list the arrangement of parts I need so I can look into it? I understand basic home theaters and car audio but how do you get the speakers powered properly in my case. The z5500 has its own amp but think its mostly for the sub.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Hey guys rookie question but I'm eventually hoping to get a more audiophile 5.1 to replace my z5500, I'm working with a xonar dx and gaming is main priority with some music as second while web browsing.
> Can you guys list the arrangement of parts I need so I can look into it? I understand basic home theaters and car audio but how do you get the speakers powered properly in my case. The z5500 has its own amp but think its mostly for the sub.


Depends on your budget. If you're looking at cheap something can definitely be rigged up, but on the higer end side you'd want a receiver to start, which is already fairly expensive. Then add speakers on top of that. Let us know your budget though so we can help you better.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Hey guys rookie question but I'm eventually hoping to get a more audiophile 5.1 to replace my z5500, I'm working with a xonar dx and gaming is main priority with some music as second while web browsing.
> Can you guys list the arrangement of parts I need so I can look into it? I understand basic home theaters and car audio but how do you get the speakers powered properly in my case. The z5500 has its own amp but think its mostly for the sub.


I wouldn't say it's "audio-phile" quality, but it's definitely a pretty good quality set up I have. My set up consists of:

Polk Audio Series II Monitor 40. (Normally ~$300, got them new from NewEgg for $150.)
Polk Audio PSW 110 sub woofer. (Normally ~$300, got it for $150 new off of NewEgg.)
Denon AVR-1312. I was able to get it for $130 off of Amazon, after shipping. It can do surround sound.

My cables ended up costing a bit, but I went for quality cables too.
Speaker cables (not wires, actual "finished" cables): $25 for both book-shelf speakers.
Coaxial cable (Use it for my sub woofer): $15
RCA cables: $20
Optical audio cable (currently not in use): $20

If you go with "decent" cables, it's a little bit cheaper. But, if you are getting rid of your Z-5500, people are paying quite a bit for them on E-Bay. They're still a desired product. Sell'em before Logitech makes something comparable to them. The Z906 aren't really comparable to them; they're loads cheaper. I never understood why people tried to compare the Z906 to the Z-5500.


----------



## GTX670

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> GTX670, subwoofers belong on the floor, my friend


Already tested, no difference


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GTX670*
> 
> Already tested, no difference


Well, maybe not for smaller speakers... If I put my sub woofer on my desk (aside from it possibly breaking the desk, seeing as my speakers and monitor together are over 100 pounds) it would be ridiculous lol


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Depends on your budget. If you're looking at cheap something can definitely be rigged up, but on the higer end side you'd want a receiver to start, which is already fairly expensive. Then add speakers on top of that. Let us know your budget though so we can help you better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I wouldn't say it's "audio-phile" quality, but it's definitely a pretty good quality set up I have. My set up consists of:
> Polk Audio Series II Monitor 40. (Normally ~$300, got them new from NewEgg for $150.)
> Polk Audio PSW 110 sub woofer. (Normally ~$300, got it for $150 new off of NewEgg.)
> Denon AVR-1312. I was able to get it for $130 off of Amazon, after shipping. It can do surround sound.
> My cables ended up costing a bit, but I went for quality cables too.
> Speaker cables (not wires, actual "finished" cables): $25 for both book-shelf speakers.
> Coaxial cable (Use it for my sub woofer): $15
> RCA cables: $20
> Optical audio cable (currently not in use): $20
> If you go with "decent" cables, it's a little bit cheaper. But, if you are getting rid of your Z-5500, people are paying quite a bit for them on E-Bay. They're still a desired product. Sell'em before Logitech makes something comparable to them. The Z906 aren't really comparable to them; they're loads cheaper. I never understood why people tried to compare the Z906 to the Z-5500.


Well I was hoping to stay under $1000 but know that can break very fast. With that budget Im not sure if I might as well stay with the z5500 but my main concern was for gaming and music. I tend to like listening to highs more than deffening base so my DX eq is set a hair on that emphasis while maintaining a balance. Its hard to describe the way the z5500 sounds, but almost sharp or a little unclean when at louder volumns and dont think its the sound card (xonar dx- uni driver 1.61)

The speakers would be on my pc only, so would the soundcard need to output to the reciever? Optical? But if optical isnt it just passing the work load to the reciever, thus my onboard alc898 be nearly as good? Looking to learn









----edit
sazexa thanks for sharring the info on that setup.

Also i wouldnt be planning for this upgrade till the next 2-3months, getting married this weekend so finances need to bounce back lol. I would like to stay under $1000 since its just pc. IF its not worth it as a practical sense for my pc and that budget I understand and wont be offended. I know sound systems can easily exceed $3000 while still being conservative.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Well I was hoping to stay under $1000 but know that can break very fast. With that budget Im not sure if I might as well stay with the z5500 but my main concern was for gaming and music. I tend to like listening to highs more than deffening base so my DX eq is set a hair on that emphasis while maintaining a balance. Its hard to describe the way the z5500 sounds, but almost sharp or a little unclean when at louder volumns and dont think its the sound card (xonar dx- uni driver 1.61)
> The speakers would be on my pc only, so would the soundcard need to output to the reciever? Optical? But if optical isnt it just passing the work load to the reciever, thus my onboard alc898 be nearly as good? Looking to learn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----edit
> sazexa thanks for sharring the info on that setup.
> Also i wouldnt be planning for this upgrade till the next 2-3months, getting married this weekend so finances need to bounce back lol. I would like to stay under $1000 since its just pc. IF its not worth it as a practical sense for my pc and that budget I understand and wont be offended. I know sound systems can easily exceed $3000 while still being conservative.


If you want my opinion? You want more high's emphasis than low's?
I'd say buy two Floor standing speakers, and put them on the side of your desk. Get a receiver with some good power, and bi-amp the floor-standing speakers. (I may be a little wrong, but it's more-or-less using "fill" style surround and using multiple outputs to one speaker for better power.) You can get some good floor-standing speakers for say $600-$700 together, and a receiver with cables for around $250.
I know what you mean about the speakers, but it's probably the speakers not the card. Most audio equipment suffers, especially Logitech speakers, from higher volumes. My Polk set up can get pretty loud before noticeable distortion takes place. Definitely loud enough to fill up my room/the whole upstairs floor. Me set up all together was about $600. You can definitely get something better for under $1,000. But to help, do as I said; if you do this, perhaps sell your Z-5500 (if their in good/decent condition, and all the parts work as new, you can sell it for up to $400 I've seen) and maybe spend the extra money towards speakers.

Congratulations on the marriage! Good luck, and prosperity, to the both of you!


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> If you want my opinion? You want more high's emphasis than low's?
> I'd say buy two Floor standing speakers, and put them on the side of your desk. Get a receiver with some good power, and bi-amp the floor-standing speakers. (I may be a little wrong, but it's more-or-less using "fill" style surround and using multiple outputs to one speaker for better power.) You can get some good floor-standing speakers for say $600-$700 together, and a receiver with cables for around $250.
> I know what you mean about the speakers, but it's probably the speakers not the card. Most audio equipment suffers, especially Logitech speakers, from higher volumes. My Polk set up can get pretty loud before noticeable distortion takes place. Definitely loud enough to fill up my room/the whole upstairs floor. Me set up all together was about $600. You can definitely get something better for under $1,000. But to help, do as I said; if you do this, perhaps sell your Z-5500 (if their in good/decent condition, and all the parts work as new, you can sell it for up to $400 I've seen) and maybe spend the extra money towards speakers.
> Congratulations on the marriage! Good luck, and prosperity, to the both of you!


Thanks for the information and the good wishes









+rep on the audio ideas


----------



## raptorxrx

I'd like to join: I don't have a functioning camera currently, so I can't take pics...









I have a set of Bic DV62i's that I bought from a mod earlier this year. I read this thread alot, so I figure I should join.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, maybe not for smaller speakers... If I put my sub woofer on my desk (aside from it possibly breaking the desk, seeing as my speakers and monitor together are over 100 pounds) it would be ridiculous lol










was that really necessary? No need to try to impress us. The sub on pc speakers is more of a midbass than a subwoofer, in which case it is better to put it on the desk if that works out of course.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Well I was hoping to stay under $1000 but know that can break very fast. With that budget Im not sure if I might as well stay with the z5500 but my main concern was for gaming and music. I tend to like listening to highs more than deffening base so my DX eq is set a hair on that emphasis while maintaining a balance. Its hard to describe the way the z5500 sounds, but almost sharp or a little unclean when at louder volumns and dont think its the sound card (xonar dx- uni driver 1.61)
> The speakers would be on my pc only, so would the soundcard need to output to the reciever? Optical? But if optical isnt it just passing the work load to the reciever, thus my onboard alc898 be nearly as good? Looking to learn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ----edit
> sazexa thanks for sharring the info on that setup.
> Also i wouldnt be planning for this upgrade till the next 2-3months, getting married this weekend so finances need to bounce back lol. I would like to stay under $1000 since its just pc. IF its not worth it as a practical sense for my pc and that budget I understand and wont be offended. I know sound systems can easily exceed $3000 while still being conservative.


Any digital out (optical, usb etc) is just that, digital output. Meaning you're just passing the original digital signal for the receiver/dac to convert to an analog signal instead of the soundcard. Using the optical out on a soundcard basically bypasses everything in it, so it doesn't make sense to use a soundcard at all if you will just be using the DAC in the receiver.

Honestly, you don't need incredible speakers for decent surround sound. The most important thing is positioning. Make sure all your speakers are positioned correctly, you may even consider buying/building stands or mounting them on walls. For music, all you really need is stereo. I'd suggest getting some good studio monitors or possibly floorstanders for your fronts and then using cheaper speakers for everything else. Of course a good subwoofer will also benefit music and will not be cheap. If it's not worth the price for you though, you can get by with something cheaper. I do highly recommend getting a good subwoofer though. I'm no basshead, but bass is a integral part of music.

Btw, equalizer like its name suggests is actually meant to attenuate peaks in the frequency response and boost dips in it. It's meant to compensate for the speaker's defects in frequency response. Of course, with that said, there's no reason you can't use it to color the sound to your liking. Just IMO speakers sound best when you use the eq like I suggested. Also be careful when using eq, specifically using it to boost a band since some low quality eq's add distortion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> If you want my opinion? You want more high's emphasis than low's?
> I'd say buy two Floor standing speakers, and put them on the side of your desk. Get a receiver with some good power, and bi-amp the floor-standing speakers. (I may be a little wrong, but it's more-or-less using "fill" style surround and using multiple outputs to one speaker for better power.) You can get some good floor-standing speakers for say $600-$700 together, and a receiver with cables for around $250.
> I know what you mean about the speakers, but it's probably the speakers not the card. Most audio equipment suffers, especially Logitech speakers, from higher volumes. My Polk set up can get pretty loud before noticeable distortion takes place. Definitely loud enough to fill up my room/the whole upstairs floor. Me set up all together was about $600. You can definitely get something better for under $1,000. But to help, do as I said; if you do this, perhaps sell your Z-5500 (if their in good/decent condition, and all the parts work as new, you can sell it for up to $400 I've seen) and maybe spend the extra money towards speakers.
> Congratulations on the marriage! Good luck, and prosperity, to the both of you!


If he's getting two floorstanders it makes more sense to get a stereo amp, unless he wants to add more channels later on.

As I've been finding out recently, the soundcard has very little effect on the sq especially when the speakers are just ok. All you need is a decent soundcard/dac. Any more than that is very very minimal difference, in some/most cases inaudible difference. Don't let the so called audiophile 'experts' tell you different







. What you really should be concerned with is the actual speakers themselves. Speakers have tons of distortion compared to anything else (even really good speakers) while a decent dac has a fraction of a percent distortion. Not to mention speakers have many other problems like decay etc. Everything up to that is just the electrical signal, the speakers themselves have to convert that signal to physical soundwaves which is much more difficult to do accurately.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was that really necessary? No need to try to impress us. The sub on pc speakers is more of a midbass than a subwoofer, in which case it is better to put it on the desk if that works out of course.
> 
> If he's getting two floorstanders it makes more sense to get a stereo amp, unless he wants to add more channels later on.
> As I've been finding out recently, the soundcard has very little effect on the sq especially when the speakers are just ok. All you need is a decent soundcard/dac. Any more than that is very very minimal difference, in some/most cases inaudible difference. Don't let the so called audiophile 'experts' tell you different
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . What you really should be concerned with is the actual speakers themselves. Speakers have tons of distortion compared to anything else (even really good speakers) while a decent dac has a fraction of a percent distortion. Not to mention speakers have many other problems like decay etc. Everything up to that is just the electrical signal, the speakers themselves have to convert that signal to physical soundwaves which is much more difficult to do accurately.


No, wasn't trying to impress. Just making a point, my friend.

If he finds speakers with (in most cases) higher sensitivity, the less-likely to volume distortion they are.
Maybe he should look for a receiver with a good DAC. I say receiver because he may be interested in multi/surround set-ups in the future, or the receiver would probably be better for bi-amping speakers. Also, quality cables really can make a difference. Not just something simple like gold over silver, but actual shielded cables really do help.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> No, wasn't trying to impress. Just making a point, my friend.
> If he finds speakers with (in most cases) higher sensitivity, the less-likely to volume distortion they are.
> Maybe he should look for a receiver with a good DAC. I say receiver because he may be interested in multi/surround set-ups in the future, or the receiver would probably be better for bi-amping speakers. Also, quality cables really can make a difference. Not just something simple like gold over silver, but actual shielded cables really do help.


Good point, although receivers are generally pretty expensive. At least when I was looking they were.

You do have to be careful when you say quality cables though. I do agree with you that sheilded cables are a good idea. With that said, all you really need for speaker wire is some stranded wire of the proper gauge that isn't going to oxidize. Nothing too expensive though. The reason I even bring this up is because there is a lot of marketing and hype over insanely overpriced cables (silver etc.) that simply is not justified. There are plenty of calculators or charts to tell you what gauge cables (based on type of metal) to get for a certain distance.

I don't believe cables make a perceivable difference as long as they are the proper thickness for the material. I do however believe in the power of the brain over the perception of sound







.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Good point, although receivers are generally pretty expensive. At least when I was looking they were.
> You do have to be careful when you say quality cables though. I do agree with you that sheilded cables are a good idea. With that said, all you really need for speaker wire is some stranded wire of the proper gauge that isn't going to oxidize. Nothing too expensive though. The reason I even bring this up is because there is a lot of marketing and hype over insanely overpriced cables (silver etc.) that simply is not justified. There are plenty of calculators or charts to tell you what gauge cables (based on type of metal) to get for a certain distance.
> I don't believe cables make a perceivable difference as long as they are the proper thickness for the material. I do however believe in the power of the brain over the perception of sound
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Receivers do get pricey, but it will give him plenty of inputs, and generally a much better quality in-receiver DAC than a regular amplifier would, in my experience.

I'm not saying go crazy with cables, just get some that are good. I bought all Belkin PureAV Silver Series cables. I got them pretty cheap off Amazon. They look awesome, and work great!

Plus, they weren't that much. About $25 for RCA, $15 for Coaxial, $15 for an Optical, and $30 for a set of speaker cables that are finished and have banana plugs/pins at the end. I love'em.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptorxrx*
> 
> I'd like to join: I don't have a functioning camera currently, so I can't take pics...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a set of Bic DV62i's that I bought from a mod earlier this year. I read this thread alot, so I figure I should join.


I was about to quote you to say that those are *awesome* speakers, but then I realized who you were and which mod you were talking about!









Also:
Just picked up a Harmon Kardon receiver for my living room and decided to try out the Jamo 5-piece set. My reaction? Pleasantly surprised! No, they're not the world's most even and accurate speakers, and I've never really gotten to play them loudly. However, they're actually very clear and aren't hollow nor muddy! The center channel is a bit tinny, but I haven't done much tweaking yet. I'm confident that with a little EQing, these will turn out to be some of the best budget speakers I've ever used.
Note: the cost of the floorstanders was $70 for the pair, or $200 for the 5-ch kit. Pics to come soon.


----------



## Big-Pete

ooh can i join???

old setup,


the b&ws are stereo bi wired to a pioneer amp, and then the pioneer bridges to a kenwood amp and a sub.


new setup,



when its party time and people need more bass this gets turned on

its run off a separate power amp thats hidden away, i also have a REL.

i want to add 3 more mid/high speakers for 5.1.

im going to have 1 amp per 2 channels, ie fronts amped, rears amped, front center amped, and then each sub has its own amp.

the B&Ws are DM601 S3s in black ash, and im going to get some more 601s for rear fill and a LCR 60 for center, then its just a case of buying more stereo amplifiers.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> I was about to quote you to say that those are *awesome* speakers, but then I realized who you were and which mod you were talking about!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also:
> Just picked up a Harmon Kardon receiver for my living room and decided to try out the Jamo 5-piece set. My reaction? Pleasantly surprised! No, they're not the world's most even and accurate speakers, and I've never really gotten to play them loudly. However, they're actually very clear and aren't hollow nor muddy! The center channel is a bit tinny, but I haven't done much tweaking yet. I'm confident that with a little EQing, these will turn out to be some of the best budget speakers I've ever used.
> Note: the cost of the floorstanders was $70 for the pair, or $200 for the 5-ch kit. Pics to come soon.


The 5 channel setup when it's $130 at Fry's or Newegg is a steal for a decent upgrade from an all-in-one system. I really liked them when I had it.


----------



## axipher

Anyone know a good Canadian place to get replacement component, such as burned out caps on a crossover board:


----------



## Chipp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Anyone know a good Canadian place to get replacement component, such as burned out caps on a crossover board:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1035001/


Madisound carries good stuff and ships to Canada (using USPS) if you're looking for nicer components. Last I'd heard, their brokerage fees were low enough from the transfer to Canada Post that it might still b practical to have components shipped in.

Hard to tell from the pic, but that is what, a 17uF, 100v cap? Not a rare thing - a local general electronic supplies retailer might have something for you.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Anyone know a good Canadian place to get replacement component, such as burned out caps on a crossover board:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Madisound carries good stuff and ships to Canada (using USPS) if you're looking for nicer components. Last I'd heard, their brokerage fees were low enough from the transfer to Canada Post that it might still b practical to have components shipped in.
> 
> Hard to tell from the pic, but that is what, a 17uF, 100v cap? Not a rare thing - a local general electronic supplies retailer might have something for you.
Click to expand...

Sadly up where I am, not many specialized electronics stores. I've been looking at some complete replacement crossover boards versus fixing this one. How much of an improvement could I get from using a newer passive crossover board?

It's for the towers below, an older Pro-Audio tower speaker pair, each with 2 6" woofers and a 1 1/4" tweeter, I can get more information tonight on the actual speakers themselves.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Anyone know a good Canadian place to get replacement component, such as burned out caps on a crossover board:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1035001/


Solen.ca http://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?catalog=3&niveau1=1&niveau2=3&s1=2&s2=3

For a speaker crossover you want a NPE(non-polar electrolytic) or film caps. Polarized are for electronics and will not work in a speaker crossover.

What makes you believe the cap is shot?


----------



## Chipp

Unless you can find a replacement board with the exact same component values as what you have there, I would not do it. The response of loudspeakers is delicate, and even small changes to crossover values can make very different things happen electrically (and thus, give you very different response from the speakers - probably not in a good way).

I would stick to replacing the components on the board you already have. You can use components with higher voltage/wattage ratings than originally specified with no problems, but the capacitance/inductance/resistance values should all be identical to preserve the original design.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> Solen.ca http://www.solen.ca/pub/index.php?catalog=3&niveau1=1&niveau2=3&s1=2&s2=3
> 
> For a speaker crossover you want a NPE(non-polar electrolytic) or film caps. Polarized are for electronics and will not work in a speaker crossover.
> 
> What makes you believe the cap is shot?


My buddy took a quick look at it and told me that's why the tweeters working, the tweeter itself works fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipp*
> 
> Unless you can find a replacement board with the exact same component values as what you have there, I would not do it. The response of loudspeakers is delicate, and even small changes to crossover values can make very different things happen electrically (and thus, give you very different response from the speakers - probably not in a good way).
> 
> I would stick to replacing the components on the board you already have. You can use components with higher voltage/wattage ratings than originally specified with no problems, but the capacitance/inductance/resistance values should all be identical to preserve the original design.


Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> I finally have everything setup. Still got to sort couple of boxes but otherwise I'm done.
> I love these Norstone Stylum 2 stands
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A major pain in the butt to assemble and to move/slide on the floor when assembled but they're freaking gorgeous and so sturdy.
> I'll snap a picture when I have time


Looks like I completely forgot. I love these stands so much. My Wharfe's sound really good now. Bass is all tight and everything, it just works.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Anyone know a good Canadian place to get replacement component, such as burned out caps on a crossover board:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1035001/


You might try digikey or mouser.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Anyone know a good Canadian place to get replacement component, such as burned out caps on a crossover board:
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might try digikey or mouser.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll check those out.


----------



## Ferling

Nice club









here is what i am currently using

Auvio 4" 3 way Indoor/ Outdoor speakers




Powered by the LP-2020a+ Class T HI- FI Stereo Digital Amp



I know this is simple and i use to have a 7.1 theater surround system before, but had to downgrade when i moved. Its still better than using cheap pc speakers.

Any suggestion as to what kind of sub should i tag along to my 2 bookshelf speakers/amp? (has to be active)


----------



## Stupidhatmatt

I'd like to join. For my computer I use Dynaudio BM5a's with a Yamaha HS10W Subwoofer


----------



## Ferling

Spoiler: nice setup



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stupidhatmatt*
> 
> I'd like to join. For my computer I use Dynaudio BM5a's with a Yamaha HS10W Subwoofer






i like how you used the piano for your tv and nice audio equipment to match


----------



## Ferling

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> No. In order to power speakers, they require SOME form of amplifier. The difference between active and passive is that active speakers have the amplifier built into them, passives do not (and its bought seperately).
> The speaker line outputs on a subwoofer ONLY work if you're feeding that subwoofer amplified speaker line inputs as a signal, instead of RCA. They just pass that amplified speaker signal from the amp, into the sub, and then back out through to your speakers.
> So no, either way you need an amplifier to power them. Just grab a Lepai TA2020, its like $25.
> EDIT:
> And seriously, don't get that horrible subwoofer. If you have $120 to spend, grab a SUB800 or SUB1000 from Dayton, and the $25 Lepai TA2020 T amp. If you can spend a tad more, shoot for the SUB1200 (note its quite large). That Polk PSW10 is absolutely horrible for the money.






i get these question all the time at work! (radio shack)

I LOVE THAT AMP.... this is very good advice for someone on a budget

EDIT: Question for you, i see that the psw110 has a good amount of positive reviews. Could you shed some light on your statement made about the sub? Cnet gave a decent review and mentioned _"The bad: All that's missing is a direct input that bypasses the sub's internal crossover."_

im no professional and i don't understand by what they mean... Is it saying it wont filter the lpf (low pass filter) sufficiently for the audio Input/outputs to your speakers?


----------



## Pidoma

Just picked these up.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling*
> 
> ....
> ....
> _"The bad: All that's missing is a direct input that bypasses the sub's internal crossover."_
> im no professional and i don't understand by what they mean... Is it saying it wont filter the lpf (low pass filter) sufficiently for the audio Input/outputs to your speakers?


Meaning if you want to use your own crossover you can't bypass the built in one.

I'll leave the rest of your question for pioneer to answer







.


----------



## Sazexa

Guys, I'm looking for a DAC that has RCA AND headphone outputs. (If it can output through both simultaneously, even better.)

Price range is around $150.

I found the Audioengine D1, isn't the best, but it fits my needs pretty well. Preferably something not too intrusive to place on top of my desk, or tape to stay held up on the under side.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Guys, I'm looking for a DAC that has RCA AND headphone outputs. (If it can output through both simultaneously, even better.)
> Price range is around $150.
> I found the Audioengine D1, isn't the best, but it fits my needs pretty well. Preferably something not too intrusive to place on top of my desk, or tape to stay held up on the under side.


$179

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Audinst-HUD-mx1-Hi-Fi-USB-Audio-DAC-/180756697032?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2a15f04fc8


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> $179
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/Audinst-HUD-mx1-Hi-Fi-USB-Audio-DAC-/180756697032?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item2a15f04fc8


Interesting little piece. Bit out of budget, but $30 isn't much.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Interesting little piece. Bit out of budget, but $30 isn't much.


Check Parts Express.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling*
> 
> Nice club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here is what i am currently using
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Auvio 4" 3 way Indoor/ Outdoor speakers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Powered by the LP-2020a+ Class T HI- FI Stereo Digital Amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know this is simple and i use to have a 7.1 theater surround system before, but had to downgrade when i moved. Its still better than using cheap pc speakers.
> 
> Any suggestion as to what kind of sub should i tag along to my 2 bookshelf speakers/amp? (has to be active)


Considering you're using pretty small bookshelfs, and you don't have a LOT of power running to them, I would suggest the Dayton SUB800 to you. You'll want to use speaker wire to connect it. If you want something larger, then the SUB1000. I would not recommend the 12" SUB1200 at all, I feel it would result in far too much of a frequency gap with your 4" bookshelfs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> No. In order to power speakers, they require SOME form of amplifier. The difference between active and passive is that active speakers have the amplifier built into them, passives do not (and its bought seperately).
> The speaker line outputs on a subwoofer ONLY work if you're feeding that subwoofer amplified speaker line inputs as a signal, instead of RCA. They just pass that amplified speaker signal from the amp, into the sub, and then back out through to your speakers.
> So no, either way you need an amplifier to power them. Just grab a Lepai TA2020, its like $25.
> EDIT:
> And seriously, don't get that horrible subwoofer. If you have $120 to spend, grab a SUB800 or SUB1000 from Dayton, and the $25 Lepai TA2020 T amp. If you can spend a tad more, shoot for the SUB1200 (note its quite large). That Polk PSW10 is absolutely horrible for the money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i get these question all the time at work! (radio shack)
> 
> I LOVE THAT AMP.... this is very good advice for someone on a budget
> 
> EDIT: Question for you, i see that the psw110 has a good amount of positive reviews. Could you shed some light on your statement made about the sub? Cnet gave a decent review and mentioned _"The bad: All that's missing is a direct input that bypasses the sub's internal crossover."_
> 
> im no professional and i don't understand by what they mean... Is it saying it wont filter the lpf (low pass filter) sufficiently for the audio Input/outputs to your speakers?
Click to expand...

What that means is that the sub's internal crossover is always on, meaning you cannot bypass it if you're using a receiver that also has a crossover, so you can't use the receiver's crossover. That's what I understood of it.

To be honest, the PSW110 is a joke at $100, with the Dayton subs right there in the same price range. I'm not saying the Dayton's are the best out there....they're not. But they're significantly better sounding and more powerful than anything else in the small budget range.


----------



## Ferling

Thanks pioneer i greatly appreciate the help


----------



## lagittaja

Figured I'd share this here as well








Since I don't have anything better to do this week I'll do some other videos as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Another video recorded with GNote.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Lapin Kesae - Summer in Lapland
> 
> 
> 
> Blooming in Lapland goes by fast and quickly.
> Grass, birch and barley, soon the green has gone.
> That makes me ponder on the people badly,
> when looking back to nation how it's done.
> Why all the beauty we have turns to rotten,
> anything high we have gives way to mean.
> Why do we have so many crazy madmen,
> why only few who play their music clean?
> Why do the men all over fall down ceasing,
> give up, turn down, when the hopes are high?
> The men of function, idea, men of dreaming,
> all lose their sentiment and dreams will die.
> Else where the old are filled with urge and fire,
> the silver hairs have heart off brave and gold.
> Here are the boys, the children; growing tired
> the newborn baby is already old.
> And how about me, why do all this thinking?
> It is a sign of early aging old.
> Why don't I go for living with joy making,
> but cry the past and regret what has gone.
> Summer in Finland is the only answer;
> it turns the thoughts to run in sad and blue.
> The song of bird in Lapland is all shorter,
> the flower blooming and all joy pass soon.
> So long it takes to get all through the winter,
> short is the time the Spirit stays up high.
> Again it starts the trip to sun shine enter,
> leaving the icy country it will fly.
> Oh, Swan the white bird, guest for summer, resting,
> you Urge, Desire, Spirit of the mind.
> Please come to Lapland and stay here for nesting,
> though you will leave for warmer place to find.
> Look at the white birds my friend look for learning,
> they leave in autumn, they come back in spring.
> Here it is peaceful, safe for their returning,
> here is the place for summer birds to sing.
> Go out the world and spread your wings for flying,
> make there your duty and the world reborn.
> But when the winter's gone and spring is coming,
> I pray you, and I beg you: please return!


----------



## DiNet

Don't think I've posted here before.
Acoustic Energy Aegis Neo V2
KRK 10s
Harman/Kardon AVR-135 (It has OCN flame on it, can't see on this pic taken from phone)
Wharfedale 8.1

Working now on acoustic panels. Will have 5-8 of those by the end of the month and some bass-traps, might even take it on camera and post how my DIY went








Looking into buying decent tv stand. Stereo AV next in he line and this harman will be kept for those rare occasions of need for DTS.
This is so much worse than being addicted to pc







So much more money and time consuming, however so much more rewarding.

Upgrades to achieve before the "end of the world"
B&W CM9 or Monitor Audio GX200 or Focal chorus V836 and primare AV








Ultimate dream is Focal utopia Nova, but seems like they are just a little bit to over the budget









p.s. it's rent apartment, so yeah, don't judge


----------



## lagittaja

Looks nice! One thing I noticed is that your rear speakers are positioned a tad high. Cheapest option would be to tilt them down towards the couch.


----------



## S2000_Skyline12

I'd like to join.


























Denon USC-C35 Bookshelf Speakers > Silvertone Model RE-1203 Solid State Stereo Reciever


----------



## axipher

Anyone have recommendation for a speaker level, 4-channel source A/B switch?

I'm looking for a switch capable of 50 W RMS on the 4 channels in my car going to the front and rear pairs of speakers. I want to have the internal speakers as "A" then run the "B" 4 channels to a banana plug panel for plugging in 2 pairs of external speakers.


----------



## S2000_Skyline12

My receiver has that function and exact method of inputs. The model is listed in the picture post above if that helps.


----------



## DiNet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Looks nice! One thing I noticed is that your rear speakers are positioned a tad high. Cheapest option would be to tilt them down towards the couch.


I had them lower with different stands. I like this way better, I almost never sit in perfect position on couch so this way I get to hear sound from them when watching movie with DTS.
I actually stopped to care about them long ago. You can see that I don't have center speaker... well I had one and gave it to friend. I listen to music and stereo is the way to go. Amount of movies that need high quality 5.1 has such a low rate so I won't invest in that in foreseeable future. And music is every day for at least 2 hours.

btw the subwoofer is there only because I also enjoy heavy bass music. And some games are fun to play


----------



## Stupidhatmatt

I have my surrounds at about 2-3 ft above my head (tweeter) and it sounds great. People definitely have their recommendations but it all boils down to what sounds best to you.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S2000_Skyline12*
> 
> My receiver has that function and exact method of inputs. The model is listed in the picture post above if that helps.


Are you referring to your home theatre amp?


----------



## Mirjalovic

I currently renovating my home, so i think its better to make my personal room be better accoustically right now, any idea how that be done ? i believe its 6x6m room. Thanks


----------



## r3skyline

If you want theater room/acoustics anything for builds, head on over to avsforums or blu ray forums to get some ideas.


----------



## S2000_Skyline12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Are you referring to your home theatre amp?


Yeah I am


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *S2000_Skyline12*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Are you referring to your home theatre amp?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I am
Click to expand...

This is for a car stereo system sadly 

Thanks for the recommendation though.

Also, has anyone had experience with this guy:

http://www.native-instruments.com/#/en/products/dj/traktor-audio-2/


----------



## pioneerisloud

@axipher:
I don't know how much money you want to throw at your project. But you could just run two 4 channel amplifiers, and intsead of wiring the remote turn on wire to the head unit, wire it off a switched +12v line instead (one off your fuse box). That way, you can just flip a switch and change between the two amps...turning each one on and off.

Or you could run just the one amplifier to your "external" speakers, and the "internal" speakers off the head unit. Problem being with that option though, the internals would be on all the time, and the only ones you could switch off would be the amp (using a switch on a fused ignition +12v line going to the remote in).


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> @axipher:
> I don't know how much money you want to throw at your project. But you could just run two 4 channel amplifiers, and intsead of wiring the remote turn on wire to the head unit, wire it off a switched +12v line instead (one off your fuse box). That way, you can just flip a switch and change between the two amps...turning each one on and off.
> 
> Or you could run just the one amplifier to your "external" speakers, and the "internal" speakers off the head unit. Problem being with that option though, the internals would be on all the time, and the only ones you could switch off would be the amp (using a switch on a fused ignition +12v line going to the remote in).


Yeah, currently playing around with a bunch of ideas right now. Switching the speaker outputs is "easiest" but only if I keep it below 50 W RMS or the switches become way too expensive.

Currently I'm thinking of doing 2 amps and a 4-channel RCA splitter instead.

So have a 12 V remote line which will eventually come from the computer itself go to a relay. This relay will switch either of the two amps on of off so only one is on at a time as well as provide a remote signal to an RCA line-level switcher.

First things first though, for now I need a better way to DJ from my car so I'm asking for that little box for my birthday at the end of the month and I can hook that up to my KTP-445U and bypass my head-unit completely. This means doing a very small amount of re-wiring to make the RCA inputs of that unit available to plug in to.


----------



## Pidoma

I finally got my m-audio BX8a's hooked up. I can't believe I waited this long for good speakers! Next I will buy the sub to pair with these.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Yeah, currently playing around with a bunch of ideas right now. Switching the speaker outputs is "easiest" but only if I keep it below 50 W RMS or the switches become way too expensive.
> 
> Currently I'm thinking of doing 2 amps and a 4-channel RCA splitter instead.
> 
> So have a 12 V remote line which will eventually come from the computer itself go to a relay. This relay will switch either of the two amps on of off so only one is on at a time as well as provide a remote signal to an RCA line-level switcher.
> 
> First things first though, for now I need a better way to DJ from my car so I'm asking for that little box for my birthday at the end of the month and I can hook that up to my KTP-445U and bypass my head-unit completely. This means doing a very small amount of re-wiring to make the RCA inputs of that unit available to plug in to.


Idk how much trouble it is for you, but you could always do something similar to what you said earlier and put banana plugs on both internal and external speakers. If your amp is accessible enough you'd just have to unplug one pair and plug in another. Either that or 4 MASSIVE DPDT switches







.


----------



## senna89

which is the speaker whit most powerfull bass behind M-audio BX5 and AudioEngine 5+ ?

What do you think about Hercules XPS 80 ?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> which is the speaker whit most powerfull bass behind M-audio BX5 and AudioEngine 5+ ?
> 
> What do you think about Hercules XPS 80 ?


2x20w RMS, and they only extend down to 60Hz.

To be perfectly honest, for the money they're not going to have "powerful" bass. If you want powerful bass, then I would suggest you look into a custom setup.

Here's what I would personally do with that budget:
Lepai TA2020+ Amplifier - $25
Dayton B652's - $40
Dayton SUB800 - $90
50 feet of speaker wire - $10
3.5mm to RCA Cable - $2

All available at parts express, all together its roughly the same price, but you can EASILY upgrade individual components later on as you see fit.


----------



## lagittaja

Guys please, recommend me a microphone!








For recording speakers at home. Have no idea what I should be looking at but I'm gonna make a wild guess that it should be with a large diaphragm (if I spelled it right).
Large captures bass better and requires less gain, small captures highs better and requires a lot of gain. <- is that right?
I'm not looking at any expensive solution. Most I'd be willing to pay would be around 100€.
E: Found this. Hmm. How about that. 130€ including shipping.








http://www.thomann.de/intl/the_tbone_sc450_usb_podcast_bundle_2.htm

By the way, 'David Byrne ft. St. Vincent - Who' is awesomesauce


----------



## Royraiden

Quick noob question, are these bookshelf speaker setups supposed to be placed near the listener, for example on your desk?I ask because Im considering an upgrade from my cheap X-540 speakers and my first choice was to get a decent set of active stereo monitors.I dont know if I could get some benefit if I chose to get a custom setup like the one pioneerisloud suggested above.I know that having a sub would definitely be a plus but since they seem to be really heavy, the shipping cost to were I live tend to be incredibly high(something like $90 for standard shipping)that is why I tried to avoid the sub.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Royraiden*
> 
> Quick noob question, are these bookshelf speaker setups supposed to be placed near the listener, for example on your desk?I ask because Im considering an upgrade from my cheap X-540 speakers and my first choice was to get a decent set of active stereo monitors.I dont know if I could get some benefit if I chose to get a custom setup like the one pioneerisloud suggested above.I know that having a sub would definitely be a plus but since they seem to be really heavy, the shipping cost to were I live tend to be incredibly high(something like $90 for standard shipping)that is why I tried to avoid the sub.


Bookshelf speakers aren't necessarily designed with nearfield in mind like studio monitors are, but sometimes you can get away with it. I guess it depends on the speakers.


----------



## Royraiden

I guess I will just go the safe route and get a set of active monitors.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Bookshelf speakers aren't necessarily designed with nearfield in mind like studio monitors are, but sometimes you can get away with it. I guess it depends on the speakers.


Most two way speakers do well as nearfield monitors...unless they have shallow crossover slopes or a large center to center distance between the tweeter and woofer.


----------



## lagittaja

Yeah I'll agree with that. My Diamond 10.2's worked relatively well in nearfield listening.
Now that I have them on proper stands and listening distance is like ~2.5meters they really started to shine.

On another note, any of you guys still use a separate CD player to listen to CD's? Or have you all ripped your discs to flac and play them from somekind of NAS with a squeezebox etc or do you just use a DVDP or BDP?
Planning to buy Sony SCD-XE800 next month to replace this cheapo no name DVD player







Otherwise I'd look into getting a BDP with networking but since I already have a HTPC with BD drive so..
I could just buy a FiiO D3 for this current player but it's tray and motor are just a pile of steaming dung. It's slow to go to next track and etcetera.

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Yeah I'll agree with that. My Diamond 10.2's worked relatively well in nearfield listening.
> Now that I have them on proper stands and listening distance is like ~2.5meters they really started to shine.
> On another note, any of you guys still use a separate CD player to listen to CD's? Or have you all ripped your discs to flac and play them from somekind of NAS with a squeezebox etc or do you just use a DVDP or BDP?
> Planning to buy Sony SCD-XE800 next month to replace this cheapo no name DVD player
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I'd look into getting a BDP with networking but since I already have a HTPC with BD drive so..
> I could just buy a FiiO D3 for this current player but it's tray and motor are just a pile of steaming dung. It's slow to go to next track and etcetera.
> Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2


Wait, you mean you actually listen to CD's?









FLAC and a decent DAC is all you need.

Ok, I'll admit, I do sometimes play cds in my car before I get a chance to rip them.


----------



## TUDJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> On another note, any of you guys still use a separate CD player to listen to CD's? Or have you all ripped your discs to flac and play them from somekind of NAS with a squeezebox etc or do you just use a DVDP or BDP?


I still use my CDP on occasion, most of my listening is done from my PC through my DAC but sometimes I do enjoy using the CDP instead, I prefer the sound but it's less convenient.


----------



## lagittaja

Yeah I do mean that I actually listen to CD's.
My collection isn't that huge yet so I don't bother to rip them. Besides, when I want to listen to music, most of the time I don't want to sit in front of my computer.


----------



## hertz9753

I play cd's with my Denon DVD 1930. My DAC is an Onkyo 808 and powered by an Adcom GFA- 555. I need to learn this stuff.


----------



## lagittaja

That's a good player. Looks like a sturdy tray and it has a good dac in it. Looked in Amazon.de and one of those used goes for 229€


----------



## Kaname

Hope it's the right place. Do you guys have any suggestion for a couple of good speakers for my PC? I'll mostly use them to play rock/heavy metal music and play games. Plus I have a PS3 connected to the same monitor, so it would be nice if I could plug them to it too someway, not that it's really the main question.
Budget around 150-200$ I guess, since I live in Europe


----------



## bavman

Today's been a good day. Finally have everything for my new audio set up:

Infinity Primus p142 speakers
Yamaha HTR-5860 receiver
Polk PSW505 Sub


----------



## Xyro TR1

My home theater setup is finally nearing completion. I just need to wire in my surrounds!

I've got Jamo (Klipsch/Energy!) floorstanders, center, and sats with a Martin Logan sub, all wired to a Harmon/Kardon receiver.







Pics to come soon!


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> My home theater setup is finally nearing completion. I just need to wire in my surrounds!
> I've got Jamo (Klipsch/Energy!) floorstanders, center, and sats with a Martin Logan sub, all wired to a Harmon/Kardon receiver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics to come soon!


The Jamo S426 from Fry's?

I had a set with a Pioneer SW-8 sub. A great speaker and sub setup for ~$200 when on sale.

I got offered a trade for my Cambridge Audio S20 for a set of Paradigm Titan V.2. I know they are much older, but I think it's more than a comparable upgrade. I'm using a my KEFs as my desktop speakers, but I think they will do nicely as a set of TV speakers. Which would replace the S20s in its current duty.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> The Jamo S426 from Fry's?


That's the one! They really aren't bad for the price I paid. I don't do any serious listening on that setup, and it's super nice for movies or TV shows.







I spent just under $300 including sub, center, and sats. Plus a $260 HK receiver to drive it makes my apartment a lot more liveable!


----------



## EddWar

Hi everybody, I supouse that DIY speakers are alowed.
Well this is my setup, 7.1 with a Denon AVR 1609. Is not impresive than the branded speakers, but I think that sound great, crystal clear and potent








and sorry for the crapy pics, the cell phones usualy don't have a good camera, except the expensive ones.



A view with the subwofer, Yamaha YST-RSW300, I know that is not an hi-end but sounds good.


The mounts of the surround speakers were send them to do with a blacksmith.


And the rear speakers, I only show one, the other is exactly the same only turned in the oposite side.


----------



## bobfig

all my speakers are DIY, even my amp is too.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EddWar*
> 
> Hi everybody, I supouse that DIY speakers are alowed.
> Well this is my setup, 7.1 with a Denon AVR 1609. Is not impresive than the branded speakers, but I think that sound great, crystal clear and potent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and sorry for the crapy pics, the cell phones usualy don't have a good camera, except the expensive ones.
> ...
> A view with the subwofer, Yamaha YST-RSW300, I know that is not an hi-end but sounds good.
> ...
> The mounts of the surround speakers were send them to do with a blacksmith.
> ...
> And the rear speakers, I only show one, the other is exactly the same only turned in the oposite side.
> ...


What drivers did you use?

If built properly, diy speakers will be way better than anything you could normally afford







.


----------



## EddWar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> What drivers did you use?
> If built properly, diy speakers will be way better than anything you could normally afford
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


For the mid-bass I use Boshmann EVO-65
I can't remeber the tweeter's brand, I need to open them to remeber.


----------



## vicyo

I have a pair of Diatone DS-37B

96.600cm³ and 24 kilos of awesome sound









and because my sister finished university and moved back this year, the living room become a mess









yes, I don't care about having that antique Tv as long as i have my pc and my audio sistem


----------



## elzhi

clean and simple.

and for the late night sessions i've got these beauties


----------



## axipher

Hey guys, I'm moving across the country (Canada) for a temporary 6 month relocation with work and living out of a hotel room. I'm looking to spend less then $300 + shipping on a decent speaker setup to run off my rig's Xonar DG. Basically a nice 2-channel AMP and 2 book-shelves with a high range of output. I'm not looking for super powerful bass as I'm in a hotel room, but some solid reproduction across all frequencies is key.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm moving across the country (Canada) for a temporary 6 month relocation with work and living out of a hotel room. I'm looking to spend less then $300 + shipping on a decent speaker setup to run off my rig's Xonar DG. Basically a nice 2-channel AMP and 2 book-shelves with a high range of output. I'm not looking for super powerful bass as I'm in a hotel room, but some solid reproduction across all frequencies is key.


Dayton DTA-100a + BIC DV62si.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm moving across the country (Canada) for a temporary 6 month relocation with work and living out of a hotel room. I'm looking to spend less then $300 + shipping on a decent speaker setup to run off my rig's Xonar DG. Basically a nice 2-channel AMP and 2 book-shelves with a high range of output. I'm not looking for super powerful bass as I'm in a hotel room, but some solid reproduction across all frequencies is key.
> 
> 
> 
> Dayton DTA-100a + BIC DV62si.
Click to expand...

Great if I was a US customer :S

Canadian price would be $160 + $180 respectively before tax and shipping from amazon.ca :O


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Great if I was a US customer :S
> Canadian price would be $160 + $180 respectively before tax and shipping from amazon.ca :O


Does Parts Express ship to Canada?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Great if I was a US customer :S
> Canadian price would be $160 + $180 respectively before tax and shipping from amazon.ca :O
> 
> 
> 
> Does Parts Express ship to Canada?
Click to expand...

Maybe, but they are back-ordered on the amp


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Maybe, but they are back-ordered on the amp


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=310-300

Try this one.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elzhi*
> 
> clean and simple.
> and for the late night sessions i've got these beauties


Very nice!


----------



## hertz9753

I shipped my Polk LSi9 crossovers for mods on Sat.











I got my modded crossovers back. The detail in the sound is incredible and no ear fatigue.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Great if I was a US customer :S
> Canadian price would be $160 + $180 respectively before tax and shipping from amazon.ca :O


BUMMER!







I totally forgot about that. Can you buy it and ship it to a friend in the states who can ship it to you?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Maybe, but they are back-ordered on the amp
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=310-300
> 
> Try this one.
Click to expand...

Brings my total to $135 + $142 for shipping :O

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Great if I was a US customer :S
> Canadian price would be $160 + $180 respectively before tax and shipping from amazon.ca :O
> 
> 
> 
> BUMMER!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I totally forgot about that. Can you buy it and ship it to a friend in the states who can ship it to you?
Click to expand...

Might have to look in to something like this, but I'm guessing it would almost just as expensive for someone to ship it to me in Canada...


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> I shipped my Polk LSi9 crossovers for mods on Sat.


Skiing Ninja or Trey?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm moving across the country (Canada) for a temporary 6 month relocation with work and living out of a hotel room. I'm looking to spend less then $300 + shipping on a decent speaker setup to run off my rig's Xonar DG. Basically a nice 2-channel AMP and 2 book-shelves with a high range of output. I'm not looking for super powerful bass as I'm in a hotel room, but some solid reproduction across all frequencies is key.


i would think you might just be better off with some audioengine 2 speakers if you in a small place like that.

http://ncix.com/products/?sku=63650&vpn=A2-B&manufacture=Audioengine


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> Skiing Ninja or Trey?


Trey. I've been a member of the Polk Forums since 2008. I don't post much though.

Are you Face in the Polk Forum?


----------



## Sazexa

Guys, I need some help. I've checked E-Bay, and Craigslist near by... But nothing has shown up.

I want to buy some Polk Audio Monitor 70 (2010 edition with black/grayish front covers around the speakers) to add to my set up, so I can make a 5.1 sound set up. (I have Polk 40's now, so I'm looking for a particular model to match.)

I've checked Newegg, but they're out of stock. And they just received in a new 2012 line of Polk's Monitors, and I'm afraid I won't be able to find these speakers. Can someone help me find them? I'm looking for, as I said, these models with the black/gray front. Here is a link to Newegg's: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290208


----------



## Xyro TR1

One of my good friends has those exact towers. I can ask if he's willing to sell them if you want.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm moving across the country (Canada) for a temporary 6 month relocation with work and living out of a hotel room. I'm looking to spend less then $300 + shipping on a decent speaker setup to run off my rig's Xonar DG. Basically a nice 2-channel AMP and 2 book-shelves with a high range of output. I'm not looking for super powerful bass as I'm in a hotel room, but some solid reproduction across all frequencies is key.
> 
> 
> 
> i would think you might just be better off with some audioengine 2 speakers if you in a small place like that.
> 
> http://ncix.com/products/?sku=63650&vpn=A2-B&manufacture=Audioengine
Click to expand...

Those look like a damn good solution, can anyone else chime in on these guys? I'm just still a little more convinced to go with a pair of speakers and a dedicated amp so I can change out one or the other if need me.

I was also thinking of mounting the amp inside my case as part of it's modding.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> One of my good friends has those exact towers. I can ask if he's willing to sell them if you want.


That would actually be really cool. Depending on what he wants for shipping (or how close by) and the condition of the speakers, this could be pretty awesome. ;]


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Those look like a damn good solution, can anyone else chime in on these guys? I'm just still a little more convinced to go with a pair of speakers and a dedicated amp so I can change out one or the other if need me.
> I was also thinking of mounting the amp inside my case as part of it's modding.


that's fine. and if you really wanted to do some work you could mod in a gain clone amp which would provide around 40-50 watts at 8ohm for speakers. would be maybe $150 for that. i was also going to say get the Audioengine 5+ because of the larger woofer but that's $130 over your budget.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Those look like a damn good solution, can anyone else chime in on these guys? I'm just still a little more convinced to go with a pair of speakers and a dedicated amp so I can change out one or the other if need me.
> I was also thinking of mounting the amp inside my case as part of it's modding.
> 
> 
> 
> that's fine. and if you really wanted to do some work you could mod in a gain clone amp which would provide around 40-50 watts at 8ohm for speakers. would be maybe $150 for that. i was also going to say get the Audioengine 5+ because of the larger woofer but that's $130 over your budget.
Click to expand...

Definitely not looking to blow my budget lol. And I think 20-30 W on some decent speakers should be more than enough for a hotel suite.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *axipher*
> 
> Definitely not looking to blow my budget lol. And I think 20-30 W on some decent speakers should be more than enough for a hotel suite.


hmm if you want i can see if and what it would cost if i were to order the audioengine from amazon and have them ship it to you if you pm me an address. i have amazon prime where i can get free 2nd day shipping but im not sure how it would work shipping to canada. i did how ever help a fellow member with buying headphones a few times and have them shipped up there. each one was like $20 but this box would be bigger so idk.


----------



## lagittaja

It's the weight that costs.
But I believe you were talking about the Audioengine 2 speaker?
Shipping weight 10 lbs. Shipping size 10.5x15x7" rounded to 11x15x7, slapped those to UPS calculator with NYC to Toronto and UPS Standard costs 30$

If one wonders, I pulled those from here asdclicksasd


----------



## bobfig

i was talking about the a5 as they are $299


----------



## lagittaja

Oh right







Should've read better.
Well, 31lbs and 15x22x12" would be a bit over 50$, still not that bad.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Guys, I need some help. I've checked E-Bay, and Craigslist near by... But nothing has shown up.
> I want to buy some Polk Audio Monitor 70 (2010 edition with black/grayish front covers around the speakers) to add to my set up, so I can make a 5.1 sound set up. (I have Polk 40's now, so I'm looking for a particular model to match.)
> I've checked Newegg, but they're out of stock. And they just received in a new 2012 line of Polk's Monitors, and I'm afraid I won't be able to find these speakers. Can someone help me find them? I'm looking for, as I said, these models with the black/gray front. Here is a link to Newegg's: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290208


http://stores.ebay.com/Polk-Audio-Direct


----------



## Sazexa

Thanks for the link hertz9753; but it only has the older model with the silver fronts.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Thanks for the link hertz9753; but it only has the older model with the silver fronts.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-Monitor70-Series-II-Polk-Audio-CS2-Series-II-/160902854199?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item25768eb637

All you have to do is drive to Mich.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polk-Audio-Monitor70-Series-II-Polk-Audio-CS2-Series-II-/160902854199?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item25768eb637
> All you have to do is drive to Mich.


I actually contacted this guy way earlier today when I really started looking up links. We talked quite extensively and we worked something out. I figured it would cost the same in gas (or about) to drive out there as to pay him to ship it, and he didn't mind shipping it out. So, he's sending them to me tomorrow or Friday.

He said he's a little worried the speaker-cloth-grill covers might break/crack, but thinks the speakers themselves will be fine. I told him that's not a big deal, I'll more thank likely be able to get a replacement if so.

SO, I've got monitor 70's on my way! I'll find a way to hook up my 40's as either rears or sides, and then in a few weeks I'll order a CS1 and use it as a center channel. Pictures will, of course, follow my friends.

Now I've got to figure out how the hell I'm going to space this all out... I need to grab some speaker wire, too... I'm considering using optical from my PC not, too. I should try to find out if my receiver supports 1440p video. Then I can just use HDMI. I think it does; it's HDMI version is 1.4a... But I don't know if that will drop my video refresh rate below 60Hz, or if I'll be able to find a good cable for this with the proper length.


----------



## Rebelord

Subbing. Pretty much my setup. Except whole room is a mess currently. Plus, I have my extra 22" LG Monitor on the receiver angled towards me for a extra monitor.
Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR804
Speakers: B&W 686

I still want to pick up a HTM61 or HTM62 to use for a center channel, put the 686 as rears and pull out my Sony SS-MF550H as fronts.


----------



## axipher

Depending on how much the A5's will be for shipping, I think I'm pretty much sold on the A2's. I talked to two guys in town that have them and they said they are amazing. One is a basement studio owner and has them in his private office and says they do an amazing job at clarity across the entire range, they just won't have a room-filling effect if used for anything other then desk speakers.


----------



## Rebelord

I think either setup will be overkill for staying in a hotel room. I would be worried about room service or someone else running off with them.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> I think either setup will be overkill for staying in a hotel room. I would be worried about room service or someone else running off with them.


They won't be staying in the room without me there. They will come out in the morning with me, I'll keep them nice and safe at work.


----------



## Rebelord

If you will be lugging them in and out alot, then I would go with the A2's. As after awhile, you might be kicking yourself for getting the bigger and heavier A5's.
However, at the same time, decent workout for the time too. . .


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> If you will be lugging them in and out alot, then I would go with the A2's. As after awhile, you might be kicking yourself for getting the bigger and heavier A5's.
> However, at the same time, decent workout for the time too. . .


I've got a nice back-pack and I'm in shape. Only a 20 minute walk to work.


----------



## bobfig

i can post other alternatives to the a2's but i don't feel they are in the same league as them. the m-audio Bx5a and the behringer MS40..


----------



## Sazexa

Well guys, the person shipped out my Polk Monitor 70's today. He shipped the two floor-standing speakers in their own boxes (not the original packaging).
I hope he packed them well. What do you guys think the chance of the speakers being damaged through shipping is?

He also, for no extra charge, shipping out the grills in a third box together as he was afraid they may break. While I'm thankful he sent the grills out in hopes to not let them break, it makes me worry that something may puncture the box, or too much pressure will be placed up the speakers and possible dent in one of the cones.

What are your guys opinions? It's making a pretty decent length trip, 820 miles-ish from Michigan to here in Connecticut. I'm hopeful, but just ever-so-slightly concerned. Then again, he has 450+ reviews and 100% feedback. So, I think it should be okay.


----------



## Pidoma

I would say if he is worried about the grills being damaged if being shipped with the speakers that he did a good job making sure the speakers were packed nicely.


----------



## Sazexa

I was considering that. I guess I was just worried about not having anything in front of the drivers.

I'm also wondering if I'll need a new receiver. I could probably use one, as my current receivers DAC isn't exactly the best. But it's typically fine. It supports 192 in.

My new Polk Monitor 70's are "20-275" watts. My receiver can only output 75 WPC at the impedance the speakers are. Will this be too low? The speakers are something like 89dB sensitivity. I was thinking about bi-amping, but then I'll lose the ability to do 5.1 surround as I wanted to before.

I might be open to a receiver upgrade. I would just require one that introduces no input lag at all (or at least no noticeable) like my current. I also need to figure out if I can play games at 60Hz in 1440p with HDMI through my receiver also... It is HDMI 1.4a compliant, but I don't know about bandwidth and if I'll have enough for gaming on that resolution.


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all ...

I am looking at finally upgrading my sound ... A friend lent me the Corsair SP2500 cause I was looking at getting a set and I am not impressed ... so onto the more professional equipment I go ...

I am battling to find decent sound in my country for cheap (entry level stuff just to get started) but i came across these ... ... are they any good ? ...

Dayton B652
Polk TSi 100
Audio Bronze BX1
KRK RP5G2

Castle Knight 1
Wharfedale 10.2

The last 2 look huge in pictures and considering I want them on my desk it may be a problem but that is solvable at least...

I am also looking to add a - Sony SA-W2500/B ... The problem is that it is an active sub meaning I need a receiver with a sub out ... What receivers/amps would work for entry level until I can save more

Would these work as a decent 2.1 system for movies and gaming ... and music (dubstep, rock, metal)

All information would be greatly appreciated.
Regards.

*:: EDIT ::*

Sorry if I am breaking thread rules by posting this ... I just need advice which i am struggling to get...


----------



## Sazexa

My two monitor 70's are in. Perfect condition, no scratches. Might as well be brand new.

Bought them both for $380.

Individually they're something around $400; sometimes go down to $250 on new-egg each. But I'm rather happy. Just waiting to buy a CS1, some speaker wire, and speaker stands. Then my little set up will be done!


----------



## axipher

So I've decided on a ODD mounted Lepai 2020A+ as pictured below. I've contacted Dwood to make the bracket. Now I just need to find a nice pair of bookshelfs, preferrably less then 6" x 6" x 8" with the widest range possible. I would like to be able to hear the really low notes but not necessarily feel them since I am in a hotel suite.

I can always pick up a separate powered sub-woofer for that extra oomph in the low notes.

Budget is about $250 after taxes and shipping.


----------



## Sazexa

This is actually a really cool idea.

I might consider doing this for a DAC/headphone amp if I find one small enough.


----------



## Pidoma

Just ordered http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=310-300 x 3

1 for my house, 1 for my parents house, and 1 for their cabin. I have seen that part linked a lot around here so I thought I would give it a try.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> This is actually a really cool idea.
> 
> I might consider doing this for a DAC/headphone amp if I find one small enough.


Thanks. And I was also thinking of making a second bracket for my second ODD slot that would be a headphone and microphone jack for my headset, along with a volume dial for the headphones and possible a mini fan controller and USB port. First I'll see how this turns out.


----------



## hertz9753

http://www.overclock.net/t/458907/ocn-speaker-club/2920_20#post_18430362


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> I shipped my Polk LSi9 crossovers for mods on Sat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got my modded crossovers back. The detail in the sound is incredible and no ear fatigue.


My god those things are skyscrapers.


----------



## raptorxrx

Axipher, OT, but how's Chippy (I think that's what you call him?)


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raptorxrx*
> 
> Axipher, OT, but how's Chippy (I think that's what you call him?)


I haven't seen Skippy in a while. I've moved away for work temporarily so I won't get to re-unite with him will at least next May


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> My god those things are skyscrapers.


7.5" The same coils were used in the modded version.



33 pounds each stock and now 34. 4 Ohm amp and heavy duty speaker stands are required. They are book shelf speakers that won't fit on your book shelf.


----------



## Pidoma

Okay just got in my Lepai LP-2020A+ Amp http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=310-300

Works great, puts out some good sound on some old Yamaha surround sound speakers.

Now it is time to upgrade those.

Any suggestions for good speakers to hook up for my computer?

My budget is around $200 total.

I want them to fit on my desk.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> Okay just got in my Lepai LP-2020A+ Amp http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=310-300
> 
> Works great, puts out some good sound on some old Yamaha surround sound speakers.
> 
> Now it is time to upgrade those.
> 
> Any suggestions for good speakers to hook up for my computer?
> 
> My budget is around $200 total.
> 
> I want them to fit on my desk.


I have these at work hooked to that same amp.
http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-DV62si-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00006JPDI

They sound awesome!


----------



## trulsrohk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> My two monitor 70's are in. Perfect condition, no scratches. Might as well be brand new.
> Bought them both for $380.
> Individually they're something around $400; sometimes go down to $250 on new-egg each. But I'm rather happy. Just waiting to buy a CS1, some speaker wire, and speaker stands. Then my little set up will be done!


The CS2 is the matching center for those monitor 70's I believe. At least I think that's what I got/have


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> I have these at work hooked to that same amp.
> http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-DV62si-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00006JPDI
> They sound awesome!


I really like those reviews! Thanks for the link. I will defiantly have to read up on those.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trulsrohk*
> 
> The CS2 is the matching center for those monitor 70's I believe. At least I think that's what I got/have


The CS1 matches the 40's though. So I'm just going with that.


----------



## trulsrohk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> The CS1 matches the 40's though. So I'm just going with that.


The 70s are meant to completed with the CS2, and yeah that's what I have as well. Same 6.5" drivers and tweeter that is in the 70 towers, and you really want that to be the same across your front soundstage so you don't get any weirdness as stuff is sweeping across from side to side. Also you want to get pretty decent bass extension from the center to match up to what the towers can do.

The CS1 only has the 5 1/4" drivers, which matches the 40's but if you are only using those for rears it's not as big of a deal.

In reality it's probably not too big of a deal and you will likely be happy with just the CS1, but like I said, Ideally you want especially the front stage to be all matched


----------



## StayFrosty

I feel so poor sitting here with my Altec Lansing speakers and seeing all your $300+ speakers.


----------



## trulsrohk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StayFrosty*
> 
> I feel so poor sitting here with my Altec Lansing speakers.


Snipe Craigslist and thrift stores, great way to pick up some decent gear on the cheap!

I have all of $100 tied up in my computer audio which consists of an older Yamaha RX-V995 receiver, a couple B&W Prism bookshelves and an Infinity 8" sub


----------



## StayFrosty

I've only spent like $50 on mine and to be honest I'm very impressed with the sound I get off them, I'm just sitting here drooling over how good all those expensive speakers must sound.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StayFrosty*
> 
> I've only spent like $50 on mine and to be honest I'm very impressed with the sound I get off them


Then that's all that matters.


----------



## Pidoma

I haven't spent any money on my setup.


----------



## [PWN]Schubie

Add me if you could, just picked up a pair of KRK RP8G2.
I have a TC Electronic Konnekt 24D that I previously used for recording but I haven't really done that for a while so it is only being used for playback now.

Setup: TOSlink from PC to 24D then balanced output to the RP8's
Love the sound so far, will post a picture of setup in a few days once I get everything setup the way I want (still working on PC)


----------



## battosaii

im in the process of making my first custom Subwoofer box.

heres a Mock up









im taking a break right now letting the glue set on the double layered front in a set of clamps but so far so good!

btw this if for a 10" Alpine Type X subwoofer


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Hey everyone- I'm interested in joining the speaker club =D
There was something missing in my life and then I found this thread: AWESOME!!!!
I'm just now getting into the whole audio thing, my dad got rid of his old Sony SA-W2500 and gave it to me (he got a massive 600w behemoth) and I think I'd like to hook it up to my PC, I have some other Sony speakers (enough for 5.1) and I'd like to set it up in my room. I plan on using the 100 watt amp on my sub to drive the other speakers ( i have a 12x12 room so I doubt I'll be needing more than 100w) and I can setup the amp and stuff, problem is I have no idea how to hook up the sub to my PC to get the audio signal across. My sub has a coaxial digital in and a few analog outs (i think they're analog this isn't my concern though) and my PC only has 5 3.5mm jacks and a digital optical, any advice on how to set it up? I'd love to get some pics, I just need to get it setup first and clean off my desk =/

Thanks guys, hope to hear from you soon so i can get some pics in =D


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xK1LLSW1TCHx127*
> 
> Hey everyone- I'm interested in joining the speaker club =D
> There was something missing in my life and then I found this thread: AWESOME!!!!
> I'm just now getting into the whole audio thing, my dad got rid of his old Sony SA-W2500 and gave it to me (he got a massive 600w behemoth) and I think I'd like to hook it up to my PC, I have some other Sony speakers (enough for 5.1) and I'd like to set it up in my room. I plan on using the 100 watt amp on my sub to drive the other speakers ( i have a 12x12 room so I doubt I'll be needing more than 100w) and I can setup the amp and stuff, problem is I have no idea how to hook up the sub to my PC to get the audio signal across. My sub has a coaxial digital in and a few analog outs (i think they're analog this isn't my concern though) and my PC only has 5 3.5mm jacks and a digital optical, any advice on how to set it up? I'd love to get some pics, I just need to get it setup first and clean off my desk =/
> Thanks guys, hope to hear from you soon so i can get some pics in =D


You will need a 5.1 receiver with a toslink cable input for that.


----------



## xK1LLSW1TCHx127

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> You will need a 5.1 receiver with a toslink cable input for that.


Okay I see, I have the receiver the reason I didn't want to use it was because it seems a little wasteful of me to run a 200W receiver and a 100W sub since I could run speakers off the sub, but if there's not better way then there's no better way I guess, thanks


----------



## Simca

Decided to abandon my quest for HE-500s and have decided to just continue to find nicely priced Audeze LCD's.


----------



## battosaii

here it is turned out pretty crappy but i did the best that i could with a jigsaw...

but the sound is amazing!


----------



## [PWN]Schubie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Decided to abandon my quest for HE-500s and have decided to just continue to find nicely priced Audeze LCD's.


Post in the wrong thread?
Meant to post in the headphones club me thinks?

Anyways, congrats on the nice set of cans


----------



## Crizume

So I am just getting into speakers and a couple months ago I picked up the Pioneer BS21 from the recommended list. Gotta say I really liked them and now am looking for bigger and louder. I have a Denon 1312 powering my system and a sony wvs310 subwoofer with a second set of BS21 in the rear that i got from best buy clearance.

I saw this lighting deal on amazon and was wondering if anyone had any opinions on these.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GGXGU6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
My BS21 would be given to my brother If i chose this direction. I read a couple reviews and for the price they are good.

If these are a no go I will go the 2 Floorstanding for the front route and put my pioneers to the rear. I saw the polk audio 70's on sale for $300 for the pair.

Any recomendations. I am not an audiophile and the speakers will be mostly used for gaming with about 20-30% music.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crizume*
> 
> So I am just getting into speakers and a couple months ago I picked up the Pioneer BS21 from the recommended list. Gotta say I really liked them and now am looking for bigger and louder. I have a Denon 1312 powering my system and a sony wvs310 subwoofer with a second set of BS21 in the rear that i got from best buy clearance.
> I saw this lighting deal on amazon and was wondering if anyone had any opinions on these.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GGXGU6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> My BS21 would be given to my brother If i chose this direction. I read a couple reviews and for the price they are good.
> If these are a no go I will go the 2 Floorstanding for the front route and put my pioneers to the rear. I saw the polk audio 70's on sale for $300 for the pair.
> Any recomendations. I am not an audiophile and the speakers will be mostly used for gaming with about 20-30% music.


I have those exact speakers and paid $200 for 'em a few months ago. They're worth every penny of $130 or more.


----------



## Crizume

Thanks. Gave them a shot and signed up for prime free trial plus 1 day shipping for $3.99. Tomorrow christmas comes early.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crizume*
> 
> Thanks. Gave them a shot and signed up for prime free trial plus 1 day shipping for $3.99. Tomorrow christmas comes early.


Once you get Prime, your life will change. Trust me.


----------



## aksthem1

You made a good choice Crizume. I had them as well and for the price I was honestly surprised, bought for $160 IIRC. They are made by Klipsch too.


----------



## kamikaze_

Edit:


----------



## [PWN]Schubie

Anyway, here is my setup with the KRK RP8G2 from the K24d.
Also my SR225s on the side.


----------



## Jaxlb

There are some really nice looking systems here. Though I could probably never afford most of them or just couldn't justify spending the money at least.

Well I have a pair of Audioengine A2's but upgraded about a month ago when my local electronics store had a Kenwood 2.1 Receiver and speaker package for sale for $260 AUD since it was the last one they had in there factory.

So here is two pictures of my setup at the moment, Though I'm not that happy with the cabling I've got going on at the moment.
The Receiver is the Kenwood RA-5000 and the speakers are Kenwood LS-V130-B's


Sorry for the bad picture quality.

The subwoofer is something I got given to me which I repaired. It's a Sansui SW-100 which I'm thinking of replacing eventually since I have to leave it on all the time for it to work since it's auto on/off doesn't work with the receiver for some reason. It's also a bit big for my room.


----------



## SinX7

What's the "best" speaker I can get right now for 50% gaming and 50% music/movies? Don't want to spend more then $100ish.

Thanks


----------



## trulsrohk

100 each or per?

and what are you powering with?


----------



## SinX7

Well, for the set lol. Just a nice 2.1 speaker setup for my computer.


----------



## trulsrohk

so a 2.1 set including subwoofer and presumably amplification?

good question, i'm not really up on the current stuff that would fall into that price range. I usually recommend perusing your local craigslist and thrift centers for a decent older receiver speakers/subwoofer. if you stretched up to $150 you could probably go that route and wind up with something that would likely blow away any 2.1 in a box computer setup


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trulsrohk*
> 
> so a 2.1 set including subwoofer and presumably amplification?
> good question, i'm not really up on the current stuff that would fall into that price range. I usually recommend perusing your local craigslist and thrift centers for a decent older receiver speakers/subwoofer. if you stretched up to $150 you could probably go that route and wind up with something that would likely blow away any 2.1 in a box computer setup


I would definitely get one of those non-computer set up speakers, but I don't have room beside my desk. So I' m looking for 2.1 set up type


----------



## atarione

i'd like to join

I have (as pictured) Polk Audio T15s (w/ SMSL SA-S3 driving them) and JBL L1 bookshelf speakers + Polk PSW10 subwoofer (w/ pioneer SA-710 driving them) hooked up to my pc.


----------



## Sazexa

Finally getting my center-channel speaker soon. (Polk CS1)

Will go nicely with my Monitor 70's and 40's for 5.1. Looking to get some speaker stands for the 40's, around 26" in height. I'll find some eventually. I'd also like to get a better receiver... So I can do HDMI pass-through (that has a better DAC) with no input lag for the full 5.1 audio and still play in 1440p on my computer. We'll see.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Finally getting my center-channel speaker soon. (Polk CS1)
> Will go nicely with my Monitor 70's and 40's for 5.1. Looking to get some speaker stands for the 40's, around 26" in height. I'll find some eventually. I'd also like to get a better receiver... So I can do HDMI pass-through (that has a better DAC) with no input lag for the full 5.1 audio and still play in 1440p on my computer. We'll see.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/190515747697?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


----------



## [CyGnus]

Here are some pics of my little system hope you enjoy them

















System:
Front Speakers: Kef C7 (KimberKable 4VS)
Rear Speakers: Kef C3 (Audioquest X2)
Center: Monitor Audio Bronze BXC (Qed XT 400)
Subwoofer: Kef C4 (Qed Qunex P75)
Amp AV: Pioneer VSX-421K (Audioquest HDMi-X)
BluRay: Sony BDP-S480 (Audioquest HDMi-X)
Dac: Creative X-Fi HD USB (Chord Cobra Plus and Furutech Formula2 USB)


----------



## SinX7

What setup can you guys recommend me for a 50% gaming and 50% movies/music? Budget wise not too expensive. I wanna get a price so I know how much to save up.

Thanks!


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> What setup can you guys recommend me for a 50% gaming and 50% movies/music? Budget wise not too expensive. I wanna get a price so I know how much to save up.
> Thanks!


What's not too expensive? You really need to state a budget.


----------



## [CyGnus]

We dont know what are you looking for... Headphones? 2.1/5.1 PC Speakers? AV System?


----------



## trulsrohk

He had stated before 2.1 with a $150 budget. I'm guessing he is open to expand budget if he is talking about saving up


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> What's not too expensive? You really need to state a budget.


Well I'm pretty much open for a price. But nothing over $500 lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> We dont know what are you looking for... Headphones? 2.1/5.1 PC Speakers? AV System?


2.1 Setup








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trulsrohk*
> 
> He had stated before 2.1 with a $150 budget. I'm guessing he is open to expand budget if he is talking about saving up


Correct! xD

Thanks!


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> Well I'm pretty much open for a price. But nothing over $500 lol.
> 2.1 Setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Correct! xD
> Thanks!


AV or PC?


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> AV or PC?


PC


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinX7*
> 
> PC


http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Klipsch+-+ProMedia+2.1+Speaker+System+(3-Piece)+-+Black/9382232.p?id=1218095770265&skuId=9382232&st=klipsch 2.1&cp=1&lp=1

For a PC you shouldn't need more than this.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/190515747697?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


While I do appreciate the help in finding some, I'm going to look for some in a certain style to try and match the room.
I'll probably end up making them myself.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> While I do appreciate the help in finding some, I'm going to look for some in a certain style to try and match the room.
> I'll probably end up making them myself.


http://www.gwizpro.com/index.php Good guys there.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 no reason to spend more on PC Speakers, with a nice sound card it sounds decent


----------



## Sazexa

Took a new picture today.
Waiting for my center to come in, then I'll have 5.1 going.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Sazexa are those the RX-6 from MA?


----------



## Sazexa

No, they are Polk Audio Series II Monitor 70's.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Howw really nice


----------



## hertz9753

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290272

If you count the TSi 500 and the speaker posted above, Polk actually has 4 different versions of the same speaker. Pretty good speakers for the money.


----------



## Sazexa

Yeah, but they're all slightly different and improved I guess.

I like the looks of the ones I have the best. They're the "2010" revisions of the monitor series I suppose.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Yeah, but they're all slightly different and improved I guess.
> 
> I like the looks of the ones I have the best. They're the "2010" revisions of the monitor series I suppose.


The TSi 500 has a down firing port and a gloss black acrylic top. Other than that they are all pretty much the same. I still have my black and silver M70's in my bed room.


----------



## Sazexa

The TSi are quite nice looking, also.

I love thes M70's. I'd consider just using my bookshelfs and sub on my PC and the M70's for my TV, but I don't want to buy a new receiver/amp. And though they have great bass, I think they still benefit a lot from a sub. (Like my PSW110)


----------



## Sazexa

Will post set up with full 5.1 either this week or next. Maybe the week after that. Depends on when my stands, center shelf, and center get here.

Ordered it two days ago.


----------



## Spriggs

I shall join this club, i have the following speakers

vintage super awesome speakers:
Quad ESL 57, dynaco a-25, celestion 3, audionote an-e, snell j/iii, oh and a western electric cinema horn from the 1920's these are my good speakers

now for my terrible why did i buy these speakers,
martin logans, meridian dsp3200.to name a few

amps if you care are the dynaco st-70, synthesis nimis, radiocraftsmen, western electric 300b pp amp, eico hf-87.

again my terrible amps are
meridian and various other new type brands that are disgusting.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggs*
> 
> I shall join this club, i have the following speakers
> 
> vintage super awesome speakers:
> Quad ESL 57, dynaco a-25, celestion 3, audionote an-e, snell j/iii, oh and a western electric cinema horn from the 1920's these are my good speakers
> 
> now for my terrible why did i buy these speakers,
> martin logans, meridian dsp3200.to name a few
> 
> amps if you care are the dynaco st-70, synthesis nimis, radiocraftsmen, western electric 300b pp amp, eico hf-87.
> 
> again my terrible amps are
> meridian and various other new type brands that are disgusting.


You should join this thread;
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?133781-This-joint-needs-some-more-vintage-hifi


----------



## youra6

Maybe I should get a pic of my setup as well.. Only thing stopping me is that my desk is messy as hell.


A pair of Onix Ref 1s (Ninja Master mod)
Adcom GFA 535 amp
Adcom GFP 565 Preamp
ODAC dac
Cary AE3 tube preamp

You might be asking why I have two preamps... I have no idea other than the fact that I LOVE audio equipment.


----------



## slapstick01

My babies,

KRK RP5 White
and under the desk but not in the pic I just bought a KRK K10S Active Subwoofer.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youra6*
> 
> Maybe I should get a pic of my setup as well.. Only thing stopping me is that my desk is messy as hell.
> 
> A pair of Onix Ref 1s (Ninja Master mod)
> Adcom GFA 535 amp
> Adcom GFP 565 Preamp
> ODAC dac
> Cary AE3 tube preamp
> You might be asking why I have two preamps... I have no idea other than the fact that I LOVE audio equipment.


I have an Adcom GFA 555 and GFA 5400 in my home theater.


----------



## Sazexa

Trying to think of a really good 2.1 set up for around $500.

I'm more into bass, so definitely want a sub. Was thinking probably something like Polk Audio Monitor 30 ($150) a Polk Audio PSW110 ($200) and a cheaper receiver/amp for about $150. I prefer to buy new stuff. Anyone got any suggestions?

(I had some speakers by Polk Audio before, but sold them for higher than what I bought.







So I'm looking for new ones, now.)


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Took a new picture today.
> Waiting for my center to come in, then I'll have 5.1 going.


Cool. My 6 years old boy also has a Link sword on a wall


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> Cool. My 6 years old boy also has a Link sword on a wall


That sounded kind of mean. I hope you are not mocking him.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> That sounded kind of mean. I hope you are not mocking him.


It's not a Link sword. I believe it was a mock. ANYWAYS, that picture is a little old to be bringing up now.

I think I'm going to pick up some Klipsch Bookshelfs to replace my sold Monitor set.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> It's not a Link sword. I believe it was a mock. ANYWAYS, that picture is a little old to be bringing up now.
> 
> I think I'm going to pick up some Klipsch Bookshelfs to replace my sold Monitor set.


Those speakers are to bright for me. I have a few used receivers.


----------



## McDown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> That sounded kind of mean. I hope you are not mocking him.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> It's not a Link sword. I believe it was a mock. ANYWAYS, that picture is a little old to be bringing up now.
> 
> I think I'm going to pick up some Klipsch Bookshelfs to replace my sold Monitor set.


I apologize if it sounded like mocking, it wasn't my intention. I do like the interior and I do enjoy playing Zelda 4 swords multilayer with my kids occasionally







.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McDown*
> 
> I apologize if it sounded like mocking, it wasn't my intention. I do like the interior and I do enjoy playing Zelda 4 swords multilayer with my kids occasionally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That's fine then. ;]


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggs*
> 
> I shall join this club, i have the following speakers
> 
> vintage super awesome speakers:
> Quad ESL 57, dynaco a-25, celestion 3, audionote an-e, snell j/iii, oh and a western electric cinema horn from the 1920's these are my good speakers
> 
> now for my terrible why did i buy these speakers,
> martin logans, meridian dsp3200.to name a few
> 
> amps if you care are the dynaco st-70, synthesis nimis, radiocraftsmen, western electric 300b pp amp, eico hf-87.
> 
> again my terrible amps are
> meridian and various other new type brands that are disgusting.


Dude... you can't just casually mention you own ESLs and not post pics







.


----------



## Spriggs

hmm i doubt any of you have seen anything like this unless your either old and or super awesome.


----------



## Spriggs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Dude... you can't just casually mention you own ESLs and not post pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Pics of esl im my above post enjoy though these are esl-2805


----------



## enkay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slapstick01*
> 
> My babies,
> 
> KRK RP5 White
> and under the desk but not in the pic I just bought a KRK K10S Active Subwoofer.


So sexy, i just picked up some bx5 d2's my self, loving them for listening purposes!


----------



## Spriggs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkay*
> 
> So sexy, i just picked up some bx5 d2's my self, loving them for listening purposes!


if thats sexy what are these?


----------



## boostinsteve

Decided to spoil myself, and picked up some pioneer andrew jones bookshelfs. I had read the reviews, and was pleasently surprised when I got them home. For a 4" woofer, these things really have a massive sound. For the price, I can't nitpick anything.

Now I need to decide if I want to re-do my home theater, and get the andrew jones floor standers, center, and bookshelfs for surround.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve*
> 
> Decided to spoil myself, and picked up some pioneer andrew jones bookshelfs. I had read the reviews, and was pleasently surprised when I got them home. For a 4" woofer, these things really have a massive sound. For the price, I can't nitpick anything.
> 
> Now I need to decide if I want to re-do my home theater, and get the andrew jones floor standers, center, and bookshelfs for surround.


Me and my friend had the 1st gen Andrew Jones home theater setup, but I had the 5.25" bookshelf for surrounds. For around $350 with sub it's an impressive setup.


----------



## elzhi

i moved the case from the desk and placed it on the floor, now my Genelec's are positioned properly (30 deg angle) and i've got much more space on my desk


----------



## Simca

I'm more interested in the lights on the back of your monitor. Do they come in red? Where do you buy them from?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> I'm more interested in the lights on the back of your monitor. Do they come in red? Where do you buy them from?


They look RGB.

Look up "HitLights" on amazon. They're good RGB lights and are very cheap.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> I'm more interested in the lights on the back of your monitor. Do they come in red? Where do you buy them from?


http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1361504768&sr=8-2


----------



## bumblebee1980

you want to watch a movie on a Plasma, CRT or Projector in the dark to minimize reflections and get the best picture possible. the problem is after a while your eyes start to strain. it's hard to separate the screen and wall behind it. to get around this you put a special light source behind the screen like this



I use a Cinemaquest fluorescent bulb which outputs the same colour temperature (d6500k) as my Plasma. you need to make sure your display is calibrated properly and i'm not sure using RGB rope lights is going to have the same effect.


----------



## Simca

Yeah, I actually hate having a light on the back of a TV. I prefer absolutely darkness with just the screen showing. I don't get eye strain from staring at the TV in the dark.


----------



## hatlesschimp

Hi can i please join the club!

I have a Sony Muteki 7.1 Surround system (HTM7)

Thanks!


----------



## givmedew

I'd like to join

Main 5ch: Pioneer VSX-03TXH
L+R: Vienna Acoustics Mozart Grand (new style)(cherry)
Center: Vienna Acoustics Maestro Grand (new style)(cherry)
Side L+R: Jamo Concert Surround (old style)(cherry)
Sub: Infinity Kapa Perfect 12" DVQ (variable q model)

Computer 2CH: T-Amp
L+R: Martin Logan Encore TF

Listening 2CH: Yamaha RX-V3000
L+R: Vienna Acoustics Haydn Grand (old style)(beach)

In the closet: Jamo Classic 4


----------



## slapstick01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enkay*
> 
> So sexy, i just picked up some bx5 d2's my self, loving them for listening purposes!


The 5's are really nice but after listening to mine for a while, I was missing some low end. That's when I decided to get the sub. The KRK 10 will shake the walls and then some.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> you want to watch a movie on a Plasma, CRT or Projector in the dark to minimize reflections and get the best picture possible. the problem is after a while your eyes start to strain. it's hard to separate the screen and wall behind it. to get around this you put a special light source behind the screen like this
> 
> 
> 
> I use a Cinemaquest fluorescent bulb which outputs the same colour temperature (d6500k) as my Plasma. you need to make sure your display is calibrated properly and i'm not sure using RGB rope lights is going to have the same effect.


I have been told from day 1 11 yrs ago 40hr a week 5 week training at Tweeter/Sound Advice that you always install a light source behind the TV wether it is a tube, large projection tv, drop down screen (as long as it isn't perforated for center channel) and anything else because it will reduce strain on the eyes. Matching isn't the biggest deal in the world because it isn't going to match what's on the TV anyways but a natural warm color is better than an unnatural cool temp such as LEDs. If you are on the cheap you can wire up a pair of cold cathode lamps. I usually put thin printer paper or wax paper over them if they seem to hot.


----------



## bumblebee1980

here is some more info

http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-11247_7-6217705-1.html
http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ideal_lume.htm

if the light source doesn't match all you have is accent lighting and it won't work.


----------



## Blindsay

Still getting everything together but ill post some pics once its all together

Display: 120" Elitescreen + Epson 8350
Power: Onkyo TX SR806 - Being replaced with an Emotiva UMC-200, Emotiva UPA-1 x2(one for each of the front LSi15's) and an Emotiva XPA-3 to run the center and 2 rears
Fronts: Polk LSi15s
Rears: Polk LSi7s
Center: Polk LSiC
Sub: Velodyne F1500 R
Blu-ray: Sony BDP S580
Headphones: Sennheiser HD555

I went through and upgraded audio this year, Video ill do in the next year or two


----------



## bumblebee1980

I used to have a Emotiva XPA-5 in my home theater. nice amplifier.

don't like Polk and there is only one true Blu-ray player


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> I used to have a Emotiva XPA-5 in my home theater. nice amplifier.
> 
> don't like Polk and there is only one true Blu-ray player


whats wrong with polk? especially considering the lsi's arent exactly low end lol

and what true Blu-ray player do you speak of? Oppo?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> whats wrong with polk? especially considering the lsi's arent exactly low end lol
> 
> and what true Blu-ray player do you speak of? Oppo?


There is nothing wrong with Polk, it was just his personal opinion. I run Polk LSi9's with modded xovers as my front 3 speakers. Adcom GFA 555 and an Adcom GFA 5400 power them. I also use a Sony BDP-590 for Blu-ray.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> whats wrong with polk? especially considering the lsi's arent exactly low end lol
> 
> and what true Blu-ray player do you speak of? Oppo?


my family had a pair of Polk Monitor 10 speakers in the early 80's and enjoyed them. I think Polk went downhill when Sandy Gross (co-founder and designer) left the company in 1988. people will still beat on me because it's Polk and you can buy a tower speaker for $200...

I have been using Oppo DVD and Blu-ray players for a long time. a cheap Blu-ray player is fine if you use it as a transport with a video processor.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> my family had a pair of Polk Monitor 10 speakers in the early 80's and enjoyed them. I think Polk went downhill when Sandy Gross (co-founder and designer) left the company in 1988. people will still beat on me because it's Polk and you can buy a tower speaker for $200...
> 
> I have been using Oppo DVD and Blu-ray players for a long time. a cheap Blu-ray player is fine if you use it as a transport with a video processor.


I recently had some of the 2010 Monitor Series, and they were pretty nice. Alone they lacked some bass, but they're cheap with some of the best/cleanest look to them in my opinion. For the money, they're great. But there's definitely better.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> my family had a pair of Polk Monitor 10 speakers in the early 80's and enjoyed them. I think Polk went downhill when Sandy Gross (co-founder and designer) left the company in 1988. people will still beat on me because it's Polk and you can buy a tower speaker for $200...
> 
> I have been using Oppo DVD and Blu-ray players for a long time. a cheap Blu-ray player is fine if you use it as a transport with a video processor.


I was reading a review on the 103 and this is why I don't bother getting one "If you own a 1080p TV, watch mainly 1080p/24 movies on Blu-ray, and feed bitstream audio to an HDMI capable AV receiver, you'll end up with the same AV quality from cheaper players"

Which is exactly what I do lol, so my S580 is fine for me. Although once I finally retire my Onkyo 806 I wont be able to do DSD for my SACD's and ill have to look into either PCM over HDMI or upgrade to a player with analog outs...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I recently had some of the 2010 Monitor Series, and they were pretty nice. Alone they lacked some bass, but they're cheap with some of the best/cleanest look to them in my opinion. For the money, they're great. But there's definitely better.


The LSi's are in a whole different league than the monitor series, that's what I upgraded from. The LSi' series got really good reviews and anyone that thinks polk isn't what it used to be should listen to them and for the price I got them for, I doubt I could have done any better....


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> The LSi's are in a whole different league than the monitor series, that's what I upgraded from. The LSi' series got really good reviews and anyone that thinks polk isn't what it used to be should listen to them and for the price I got them for, I doubt I could have done any better....


The LSi are very nice. Not my favorite aesthetically, but they perform well.

The TSi are Polk's newer line, along with the (##)T monitor line, which are basically the speakers I had in slightly different cabinets/configurations.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> The LSi are very nice. Not my favorite aesthetically, but they perform well.
> 
> The TSi are Polk's newer line, along with the (##)T monitor line, which are basically the speakers I had in slightly different cabinets/configurations.


Yeah I upgraded from the older monitors, I got them in 2008 I believe. I got the LSi15's, LSiC and LSi7's for $1500


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Yeah I upgraded from the older monitors, I got them in 2008 I believe. I got the LSi15's, LSiC and LSi7's for $1500


http://www.vr3mods.com/ Right now you have know idea of what those speakers can sound like. I got the Castle mods for my LSi9's. Trey's mods are excellent. I paid $185 each for my 3 crossovers plus shipping. Return shipping was free.

You got a great deal on those speakers, the LSiC is so rare now I see people bidding way to high on ebay when one comes up.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Yeah I upgraded from the older monitors, I got them in 2008 I believe. I got the LSi15's, LSiC and LSi7's for $1500


Double post. You are member of Club Polk.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.vr3mods.com/ Right now you have know idea of what those speakers can sound like. I got the Castle mods for my LSi9's. Trey's mods are excellent. I paid $185 each for my 3 crossovers plus shipping. Return shipping was free.
> 
> You got a great deal on those speakers, the LSiC is so rare now I see people bidding way to high on ebay when one comes up.


I don't see an upgrade for the lsi15's on that page, well I see them but there is no actual link :/

$185 each isn't that bad, I saw some place asking for over double of that which at that point is not worth it to me consider what the speakers cost me in the first place lol


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> my family had a pair of Polk Monitor 10 speakers in the early 80's and enjoyed them. I think Polk went downhill when Sandy Gross (co-founder and designer) left the company in 1988. people will still beat on me because it's Polk and you can buy a tower speaker for $200...
> 
> I have been using Oppo DVD and Blu-ray players for a long time. a cheap Blu-ray player is fine if you use it as a transport with a video processor.


I agree. Polk is good for a budget setup, but not good for audiophiles.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> I agree. Polk is good for a budget setup, but not good for audiophiles.


the LSi's are hardly budget speakers lol


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> the LSi's are hardly budget speakers lol


Lol, yes they are http://hifiheaven.net/store/Martin-Logan-CLX-ART&currency=USD







(jk of course)


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Lol, yes they are http://hifiheaven.net/store/Martin-Logan-CLX-ART&currency=USD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (jk of course)


By that definition a Porsche 911 turbo is a budget car because there are cars out there that cost many times what it does









The LSi series is in a whole different league then the rest of the lineup, sure there are more expensive speakers out there but that doesn't make them a budget speaker


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> By that definition a Porsche 911 turbo is a budget car because there are cars out there that cost many times what it does
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The LSi series is in a whole different league then the rest of the lineup, sure there are more expensive speakers out there but that doesn't make them a budget speaker


Of course that is what it means silly. How else would you justify the price









Joking aside. While I agree that the LSi is better than it's counterparts, I feel like the are better speakers for the money. Martin Logan has some fairly decent electrostatic panels. Quad also has some vintage stuff that is pretty decent for even under 1K. Anything above the 1K mark I am going to look for either ESL speakers, or some type of horn based speaker. Or I would simply build a better speaker all together. There are plenty of speaker designs that I have heard that are pretty darn nice and cost effective compared to stock speakers like that.

I am talking simply out of personal opinion of course.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Of course that is what it means silly. How else would you justify the price
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joking aside. While I agree that the LSi is better than it's counterparts, I feel like the are better speakers for the money. Martin Logan has some fairly decent electrostatic panels. Quad also has some vintage stuff that is pretty decent for even under 1K. Anything above the 1K mark I am going to look for either ESL speakers, or some type of horn based speaker. Or I would simply build a better speaker all together. There are plenty of speaker designs that I have heard that are pretty darn nice and cost effective compared to stock speakers like that.
> 
> I am talking simply out of personal opinion of course.


I looked at Martin Logan's entry level electrostats, they go for $2200 I paid $1000 for my LSi15's (technically $800 but I had a deal to bring it down to that). Not really a fair comparison if you ask me. Did I like the Martinlogans better, probably (although I did not like how picky with placement they are) but were they 2x as good, well my thoughts on that should be obvious haha


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> I looked at Martin Logan's entry level electrostats, they go for $2200 I paid $1000 for my LSi15's (technically $800 but I had a deal to bring it down to that). Not really a fair comparison if you ask me. Did I like the Martinlogans better, probably (although I did not like how picky with placement they are) but were they 2x as good, well my thoughts on that should be obvious haha


Ah, I am talking about the M 707s in particular http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-m707-Cherry-Speaker/dp/B0067XUXOC

http://www.martinlogan.com/electromotion/em-esl.php

Granted it is a couple hundred dollar difference, but I feel like that is not a massive price difference when you look at the prices of those two.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Ah, I am talking about the M 707s in particular http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-m707-Cherry-Speaker/dp/B0067XUXOC
> 
> http://www.martinlogan.com/electromotion/em-esl.php
> 
> Granted it is a couple hundred dollar difference, but I feel like that is not a massive price difference when you look at the prices of those two.


the M 707s are 2k each the ML's are 2200 for the pair.

I paid $1000 for the pair of my LSi15's


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> the M 707s are 2k each the ML's are 2200 for the pair.
> 
> I paid $1000 for the pair of my LSi15's


WOW my neighbor is stupid. 4K for speakers????? He and I have to have a little chat.

Unfortunately though those are the only LSi speaker I have heard. So I will simply take your word that you got a good deal.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> WOW my neighbor is stupid. 4K for speakers????? He and I have to have a little chat.
> 
> Unfortunately though those are the only LSi speaker I have heard. So I will simply take your word that you got a good deal.


lol, yeah I wouldn't spend 4k on them but I paid $1500 for my LSi15 fronts, LSiC Center and LSi7 rear bookshelfs which is an awesome deal for the price. I believe it all would have been $3300 if going by MSRP.


----------



## bumblebee1980

nothing wrong paying $4000 for a pair of floor standers, as long as they're not Polk speakers









EMP Tek and HTD are my entry level recommendations for home theaters.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> lol, yeah I wouldn't spend 4k on them but I paid $1500 for my LSi15 fronts, LSiC Center and LSi7 rear bookshelfs which is an awesome deal for the price. I believe it all would have been $3300 if going by MSRP.


Yeah, that isn't bad. If you wanted to, you can also change out the capacitors with higher quality ones, and get better sound still. That is the one thing I like about speakers is that you can always take a cheap thing and turn it into gold. The issue is that I can't listen to dynamic drivers too long before I get tired of listening to them. ESLs and horns are much easier for me to listen to. That is the primary reason why I champion them.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Yeah, that isn't bad. If you wanted to, you can also change out the capacitors with higher quality ones, and get better sound still. That is the one thing I like about speakers is that you can always take a cheap thing and turn it into gold. The issue is that I can't listen to dynamic drivers too long before I get tired of listening to them. ESLs and horns are much easier for me to listen to. That is the primary reason why I champion them.


Yeah from what I read the build quality and drivers and great on my speakers but the crossovers are the weak points, so if I upgrade those I should be in pretty damn good shape.

I really like the Martinlogan's but I didn't like how picky they were for positioning.

When you say you get tired of listening to dynamic drivers what is it that is bothering you?


----------



## bumblebee1980

electrostatic speakers are not a good choice for home theaters.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> electrostatic speakers are not a good choice for home theaters.


Sure they are. You just have to be living by yourself and then precisely position them to one chair, and you must sit in that chair.....and no where else.


----------



## hertz9753

I new that I had pictures of my crossover here. http://www.overclock.net/t/458907/ocn-speaker-club/2920_20#post_18430362


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> I new that I had pictures of my crossover here. http://www.overclock.net/t/458907/ocn-speaker-club/2920_20#post_18430362


Those upgraded crossovers are giant lol, I couldn't imagine what they are like for the LSi15's.

Are those from vr3mods.com?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Those upgraded crossovers are giant lol, I couldn't imagine what they are like for the LSi15's.
> 
> Are those from vr3mods.com?


That's where they came from.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> That's where they came from.


cool, I actually just emailed him. I have heard good things about the upgrade so I figure if I can invest a little into the speakers and make them a lot better, sounds like its worth it too me. Ill also take the time to do the woofer upgrade


----------



## myrtleee34

I am in the planning and building stages of my home media room. I am looking for ideas for in wall speakers to be cut into the wall around the 60in plasma tv. Price range is decent. 250-500 per speaker.
Any suggestion would be great.
Any websites for quality speakers would help.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> When you say you get tired of listening to dynamic drivers what is it that is bothering you?


Hard to say really. With dynamic drivers I get to a point where I just stop listening to them for an hour or two and them resume. It is like fatigue but usually from the higher frequencies. Higher frequencies really grate on my ears, and I don't know why.

On ELS I am fine with high notes, and with horns I am fine as well. I really don't know.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myrtleee34*
> 
> I am in the planning and building stages of my home media room. I am looking for ideas for in wall speakers to be cut into the wall around the 60in plasma tv. Price range is decent. 250-500 per speaker.
> Any suggestion would be great.
> Any websites for quality speakers would help.


RBH makes good in-wall speakers.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> the LSi's are hardly budget speakers lol
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, yes they are http://hifiheaven.net/store/Martin-Logan-CLX-ART&currency=USD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (jk of course)
Click to expand...

What ever happened to the $80,000 or however much they cost logan's that where at the logan ranch back in the early 2000s


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> What ever happened to the $80,000 or however much they cost logan's that where at the logan ranch back in the early 2000s


IDK. At that price I would NOT buy martin logan though.


----------



## youra6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> IDK. At that price I would NOT buy martin logan though.


At that price, I would buy several cars lol.


----------



## Simca

At 80,000 dollars you should care less about the quality of the speaker and more about the environment/set up of the room and how everything synergizes and the harmonics of the speakers with the room and your listening position.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> At 80,000 dollars you should care less about the quality of the speaker and more about the environment/set up of the room and how everything synergizes and the harmonics of the speakers with the room and your listening position.


Don't worry the Martin Logan Ranch was probably BANG ON...

But yeh the speakers where huge huge and I believe they came with an array of subwoofers.


----------



## Sazexa

Well, just ordered my new speakers today. Decided on Klipsch KB-15 for about $200 new, and a Klipsch SW-350 subwoofer for $275 new.

I'm trying to decide what amplifier/receiver to get. Thinking either a Yamaha R-S500 or Denon AVR-1513. I'd get the Yamaha over the Denon, but I don't know if it has controllable cross-over frequency; or if not, what is normally crosses over to bass-frequencies.

EDIT: Just did some research and there has to be SOME bass control/crossover setting. I'll find out more, and hopefully have a decision soon.


----------



## bumblebee1980

aww, why didn't you go with EMPTek or HTD?

you can set the crossover on the Denon.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> aww, why didn't you go with EMPTek or HTD?
> 
> you can set the crossover on the Denon.


I heard the Klipsch and fell in love right in the store. Plus they look beautiful. The sub isn't as pretty as my older one, but the bookshelfs have a nice clean look.

The site for Yamaha says you can set small/large speakers to turn the subwoofer on or off, so I'd assume that you can set the cross-over. I'd hope to at least 120Hz. I listen to quite a bit of bass heavy music.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, just ordered my new speakers today. Decided on Klipsch KB-15 for about $200 new, and a Klipsch SW-350 subwoofer for $275 new.
> 
> I'm trying to decide what amplifier/receiver to get. Thinking either a Yamaha R-S500 or Denon AVR-1513. I'd get the Yamaha over the Denon, but I don't know if it has controllable cross-over frequency; or if not, what is normally crosses over to bass-frequencies.
> 
> EDIT: Just did some research and there has to be SOME bass control/crossover setting. I'll find out more, and hopefully have a decision soon.


If it has a THX mode the cross over for THX is fixed (85 I think but you can google it). Most do have a cross over that is enabled when you set the speakers to small some you can control it no matter what size you set the speakers to but most do have some sort of cross-over.

Edit I see you figured it out after I hit submit.

You may want to run a 120HZ test tone so that you know what 120HZ is. I am not saying that you don't know what it is but you may want to double check just to hear it.


----------



## bumblebee1980

is this for a home theater or 2.1 setup?


----------



## Sazexa

I think the Yamaha R-S500 will be good.

And it's for a 2.1 set up. It'll be taking signal from my ASUS Xonar Essence One, so it should perform well.


----------



## bumblebee1980

why don't you just buy a integrated amplifier?


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> why don't you just buy a integrated amplifier?


Agree your sound card is the decoder/dac in this situation so why muddy it up.

On my PC I run strait out sound card into a tiny little t-amp and into Vienna Acoustics Haydn. If you are going to be far away don't buy a T amp though.

You can run thin speaker wire right from the back of your speakers and into the hi level input on your sub. (and please nobody tell me that you don't want to do that because that is exactly how REL sub bass systems recommends it).

Edit

Or if that sonar has a sub out you could use that of course.

Your sub should have a x-over in it for the High Level inputs.

2nd edit

And a lot of subs set a high level x-over on the speaker outs which is why I say go from the speakers with a separate set of wires instead of going through the sub. Of course if you do want your speakers forced into small mode then you can go through the in and out on the high level input.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Agree your sound card is the decoder/dac in this situation so why muddy it up.
> 
> On my PC I run strait out sound card into a tiny little t-amp and into Vienna Acoustics Haydn. If you are going to be far away don't buy a T amp though.
> 
> You can run thin speaker wire right from the back of your speakers and into the hi level input on your sub. (and please nobody tell me that you don't want to do that because that is exactly how REL sub bass systems recommends it).
> 
> Edit
> 
> Or if that sonar has a sub out you could use that of course.
> 
> Your sub should have a x-over in it for the High Level inputs.
> 
> 2nd edit
> 
> And a lot of subs set a high level x-over on the speaker outs which is why I say go from the speakers with a separate set of wires instead of going through the sub. Of course if you do want your speakers forced into small mode then you can go through the in and out on the high level input.


The Xonar Essence One isn't a speaker amplifier. It will output RCA or XLR, but only amplifiers for headphones. So, I'm basically using the Xonar Essence One as the out-put device to the receiver using RCA. And use my headphones through the Xonar Essence One. The Yamaha R-S500 has just 0.04% THD near full load, so it won't "muddy it up at all."


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Just got some celestions. Paid 250 for them with upgraded crossovers. Lindsey Stirling sounds great.....I wish she would stop moving, but she still sounds great nonetheless


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Agree your sound card is the decoder/dac in this situation so why muddy it up.
> 
> On my PC I run strait out sound card into a tiny little t-amp and into Vienna Acoustics Haydn. If you are going to be far away don't buy a T amp though.
> 
> You can run thin speaker wire right from the back of your speakers and into the hi level input on your sub. (and please nobody tell me that you don't want to do that because that is exactly how REL sub bass systems recommends it).
> 
> Edit
> 
> Or if that sonar has a sub out you could use that of course.
> 
> Your sub should have a x-over in it for the High Level inputs.
> 
> 2nd edit
> 
> And a lot of subs set a high level x-over on the speaker outs which is why I say go from the speakers with a separate set of wires instead of going through the sub. Of course if you do want your speakers forced into small mode then you can go through the in and out on the high level input.
> 
> 
> 
> The Xonar Essence One isn't a speaker amplifier. It will output RCA or XLR, but only amplifiers for headphones. So, I'm basically using the Xonar Essence One as the out-put device to the receiver using RCA. And use my headphones through the Xonar Essence One. The Yamaha R-S500 has just 0.04% THD near full load, so it won't "muddy it up at all."
Click to expand...

I was saying the Xonar is already your decoder and that you could use it's output to go directly to an amplifier which for the money a receiver will cost you a similar priced amplifier would provide much better sound and have a much better amplifier than what is in a receiver.

Then most subwoofers have a high level input with a cross-over in it that you can use. If you do not want the cross-over applied to the speakers themselves then run speaker wire from the speakers to the sub. If you do want the cross-over applied to the speakers then run the speaker wire from the amp to the subwoofers high levels and then out the high level output.


----------



## Blindsay

I run my output from my soundcard right into one of these

http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/amplifiers/products/a100

Great little amp


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I was saying the Xonar is already your decoder and that you could use it's output to go directly to an amplifier which for the money a receiver will cost you a similar priced amplifier would provide much better sound and have a much better amplifier than what is in a receiver.
> 
> Then most subwoofers have a high level input with a cross-over in it that you can use. If you do not want the cross-over applied to the speakers themselves then run speaker wire from the speakers to the sub. If you do want the cross-over applied to the speakers then run the speaker wire from the amp to the subwoofers high levels and then out the high level output.


The only reason I'm considering the Denon receiver over the Yamaha R-S500 is because I might want the receiver functionality.

But I am using the Xonar directly to whatever audio source is powering my speakers. And I forgot about my sub having line-level in, so I will probably just get the Yamaha one then.


----------



## Spriggs

This thread is weird this site is just weird. So when some one posts a pic of their really nice highend system and then ... no replies... Some one posts a pic of their 300$ mixing speakers placed on their desk ... 10 replies all saying how nice of a system... So them I have come to the conclusion that not many people here care for and or have high end systems. I suppose everyones budget was wasted on a mac(jk)


----------



## Spriggs

This thread is weird this site is just weird. So when some one posts a pic of their really nice highend system and then ... no replies... Some one posts a pic of their 300$ mixing speakers placed on their desk ... 10 replies all saying how nice of a system... So them I have come to the conclusion that not many people here care for and or have high end systems.


----------



## Blindsay

well one this is not primarily an audio enthusiast website, 2 there are def. some people with high end systems here and 3 people dont have to spend a lot on their system to deserve compliments on it


----------



## Sazexa

You also after a certain point aren't really getting your money's worth on audio performance. I mean, sure you'll hear a difference in a $500 set of floor standings vs a $2,500 set. But you won't hear that huge a difference from a typical $5,000 set vs a typical $2,500...

I may not have the most expensive set up, but it suits my needs more than perfectly, and I don't feel a need to upgrade.


----------



## friend'scatdied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggs*
> 
> This thread is weird this site is just weird. So when some one posts a pic of their really nice highend system and then ... no replies... Some one posts a pic of their 300$ mixing speakers placed on their desk ... 10 replies all saying how nice of a system... So them I have come to the conclusion that not many people here care for and or have high end systems.


High-end boutique gear is not as recognizable or as easy to associate with as decent mid-range gear.

Would you be able to recognize my speakers if you didn't know them?

Compare this to the sense of familiarity the average person would get when they see a pair of speakers from Klipsch, Swan, AudioEngine, et al.


----------



## youra6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friend'scatdied*
> 
> High-end boutique gear is not as recognizable or as easy to associate with as decent mid-range gear.
> 
> Would you be able to recognize my speakers if you didn't know them?
> 
> Compare this to the sense of familiarity the average person would get when they see a pair of speakers from Klipsch, Swan, AudioEngine, et al.


Agreed. Remember that older speakers before the emergence of internet may have inaccessible or no public info. Lots of audio companies (more recent examples: AV123 and eD designs) are now defunct as well... either due to poor internal controls or just bad business ethics. Many of these companies made some good sounding speakers. It's sad that most of us won't ever be able to hear them.

Forums like audiokarma deals more with vintage stuff so that would be one place to look on obscure speakers. High end systems are often made by smaller companies and may not get as much exposure. Most people are not looking to buy 5000 dollar speaker setups.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggs*
> 
> This thread is weird this site is just weird. So when some one posts a pic of their really nice highend system and then ... no replies... Some one posts a pic of their 300$ mixing speakers placed on their desk ... 10 replies all saying how nice of a system... So them I have come to the conclusion that not many people here care for and or have high end systems.


I replied to and told you where to post your pictures. I killed the thread with a reference to you.









http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?133781-This-joint-needs-some-more-vintage-hifi&p=1883269&viewfull=1#post1883269


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spriggs*
> 
> This thread is weird this site is just weird. So when some one posts a pic of their really nice highend system and then ... no replies... Some one posts a pic of their 300$ mixing speakers placed on their desk ... 10 replies all saying how nice of a system... So them I have come to the conclusion that not many people here care for and or have high end systems. I suppose everyones budget was wasted on a mac(jk)


wrong forum..


----------



## Blindsay

slowly coming together....


----------



## youra6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> slowly coming together....


There is a beautiful thing called lighting.

or flash.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> slowly coming together....


Yes it is.







Better pics next time.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> slowly coming together....


What are the exact model numbers on the amps you have at the bottom?


----------



## bumblebee1980

he has (2) Emotiva UPA-1 and (1) Emotiva XPA-3

http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/amplifiers/products/xpa3

the UPA-1 are discontinued monoblocks.


----------



## bumblebee1980

you should of been able to tell those were Emotiva. you can spot them a mile away in a home theater


----------



## givmedew

The reason I ask is I am in the market for a new amp. My receiver (Pioneer Elite VSX-03TXH) It is greatly underpowered and worse and very scary it is not 4ohm stable. You can set it to 6ohm but no 4ohm option.

I was wondering if you guys could help point me in the correct direction. Either (2) 1CH or (1) 2CH receiver or (1) 3CH amp. Budget is $500-1100 and the $1100 would be if there is just a truly a great difference between 2 receivers for only

Speakers they would be covering is either just a pair of Vienna Acoustics Mozart Grand speakers or those speakers and the Maestro Grand (if a 3ch amp)

Some details about the situation: For a long time I just listened to my music on my Haydn Grands 6ohm version with a little modified T-Amp and a NuForce DAC. It's in my office and the speakers are within arms reach from my ears. The problem is that I have been listening to music more and more in my living room instead of the office and the receiver I have just doesn't cut it and could even possibly damage the speakers or fail because of the speakers being 4ohm.

I don't mind buying used in fact I almost prefer used. I also don't mind building it myself as long as there is a kit that includes the majority of the parts and it isn't to darn complicated to build.

I am also wondering if it would be a good idea to use my Yamaha RX-V3000 for the center and rear speakers and a separate amp for the main speakers. If I did that the Yamaha would be used as an amp only not as the receiver since I really need to receiver to support HDMI switching and video conversion from composite and component to HDMI

So like I said $500-1100. Also I would like to throw out there that not only does the amp need to support the Vienna's well but my main goal is to either get Martin Logan Theos or ElectroMotion ESL so it would be something that would play well with those as well.

I am looking for a balance of value and great sound. Don't need anything that half the cash is going into the way it looks either.

Lastly but not necessarily a requirement but I would like something that I can connect to the receiver and still have some sort of a way to have something directly connected to it like my NuForce DAC or my SACD player so basically 2 sets of inputs. If getting 2 inputs means I am sacrificing a better amp at the same price then I can totally live without it and just run the SACD through the receiver.

Oh also I at one point want to end up with a good pre-amp and get rid of the Pioneer Receiver. Also I like the way B&K Components look but I don't know if they are even good for the money or not.

Anyways any help getting in the right direction would be much appreciated.


----------



## bumblebee1980

you can get away with driving the rear channels with a receiver. I wouldn't do it with the center channel. it's the most important speaker in a home theater.



this guy sure thinks Vienna and Emotiva are a good choice









he is running a Emotiva XPA-3 and Marantz SR6003 receiver. the Emotiva XPA-3 will drive Martin Logan ESL.


----------



## bumblebee1980

a PSA to people.. don't setup your speakers like that. you can't keep things straight and flush.

you want to make sure the speakers are in front of the television not in between and you want the tweeters at ear level or at least angled towards your ear. buy taller or shorter spikes/cones.

the center channel should be angled towards your nose and you want it on the bottom. some people mount it above the television and angle it down.. if you do that the frequency response will change as you move around. if you don't have a center channel speaker stand there are tricks you can do to angle it like isolation feet, wood blocks, etc. one time I used a wood door stopper haha


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> he has (2) Emotiva UPA-1 and (1) Emotiva XPA-3
> 
> http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/amplifiers/products/xpa3
> 
> the UPA-1 are discontinued monoblocks.


Bingo









Here are the specs for the UPA-1 http://emovault.org/EmoVault/UPA-1.aspx

My UMC-200 should ship tomorrow then I am ditching my Onkyo 806 all together

Edit: and yes once its all done ill post good pictures lol


----------



## bumblebee1980

you can spot the silver aluminum rack mounts and bright blue led a mile away


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> you can spot the silver aluminum rack mounts and bright blue led a mile away


as you can see in the picture each of my UPA-1's are missing the silver trim because the previous owner stripped the bolts that hold it in so ive been trying to get them out...


----------



## PsYcHZ

Went through the begging of this thread, and got the best slogan Idea ever: We dont fart around with our sound!


----------



## givmedew

OK so I looked into the Emotive stuff and I really like the pre-amp processor a lot more than I do the B&K one. I also think I can pick one up used for a low enough price that I could break even or close to it when I get rid of the Pioneer Elite receiver that I have. So I think I am going to grab that first then either a Emotive amp or maybe a Proceed AMP 2.

One thing also though is I have seen a lot of used Carver M 1.0T amps and a lot of mixed feelings about them. It seems a lot of people have problems with them shutting off with 4ohm speakers and when it shuts off it makes a horrible pop. So I am not really sure if I would be interested in one of those since the last thing I want is to damage speakers I can't afford to replace.

Was also thinking about the EMOTIVA UPA 700 and wondering if it would be advisable to bridge 2 sets of 2 channels to power the L+R and use the remaining 3 for the center and side speakers?



That's what I have now. Normally the entertainment stand wouldn't be there and there would be no components in the living room but my wireless remotes screen broke and I had to take all of my gear out of my office closet and put it into the living room until I can afford a new remote.

The center channel is actually sitting on a shelf that is mounted on the wall not on the glass itself.


----------



## bumblebee1980

the UPA-700 cannot be bridged.


----------



## Blindsay

Could wait for the XPA-5 to go on sale or grab one from their forums.

You are running 5.1 right?


----------



## givmedew

Yeh I am running 5.1 with side dipole speakers

When they go on sale how much are they?


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Yeh I am running 5.1 with side dipole speakers
> 
> When they go on sale how much are they?


dont remember exactly, its at least $100 off, maybe $200


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Yeh I am running 5.1 with side dipole speakers
> 
> When they go on sale how much are they?
> 
> 
> 
> dont remember exactly, its at least $100 off, maybe $200
Click to expand...

Nice, I am not going to wait on the pre/pro I am just going to get that now and that way I can handle getting rid of my receiver to re-coup some of the cost then I will buy an amp. I will just have to run the outputs to my Yamaha RX-V3000 at least then I will be using something that is actually 4ohm stable. The Pioneer Elite I have no is not and I really only bought it for the HDMI switching (tv doesn't have anything but 1 HDMI and 1 composite) it was a huge downgrade from the Yamaha and I have been hating it ever since.


----------



## givmedew

Is Sonance a good amplifier company? I seem to remember they are more of a like in ceiling whole house audio kind of amplifier?

Not sure though. Let me know guys.

edit

Well I decided not to get the Sonance. Instead I picked up a

B&K Referemce 4420
B&K ST 202
Denon POA-800

I am hoping to close on a decent pre/pro soon and then I can liquidate all of my previous audio equipment.

Until I get the pre/pro I will just use the Pioneer Elite or if I sell it the Yamaha to handle surround decoding.

I am also highly considering buying a dac pre-amp and just go back to listening to music in a separate room from the living room.


----------



## bumblebee1980

I have no experience with them.


----------



## Sazexa

My SW-350 by Klipsch came in today! My amplifier and bookshelf speakers should be here Monday, and will have pictures then!


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Is Sonance a good amplifier company? I seem to remember they are more of a like in ceiling whole house audio kind of amplifier?
> 
> Not sure though. Let me know guys.
> 
> edit
> 
> Well I decided not to get the Sonance. Instead I picked up a
> 
> B&K Referemce 4420
> B&K ST 202
> Denon POA-800
> 
> I am hoping to close on a decent pre/pro soon and then I can liquidate all of my previous audio equipment.
> 
> Until I get the pre/pro I will just use the Pioneer Elite or if I sell it the Yamaha to handle surround decoding.
> 
> I am also highly considering buying a dac pre-amp and just go back to listening to music in a separate room from the living room.


Oppo would be ideal.

http://www.oppodigital.com/blu-ray-bdp-105/


----------



## bumblebee1980

Emotiva has a new pre/pro coming out
http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/processors/products/xmc1

Emotiva UMC-200 already out
http://shop.emotiva.com/products/umc200

Outlaw 975
http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/975.html


----------



## bumblebee1980

Oppo BDP-105 is pretty nice.

pre-amplifier, SACD player (stereo, multi-channel and hybrid), Blu-ray player, 2x ESS Sabre32 DAC (one for 7.1 output, one for stereo output), Qdeo video processor, online services, headphone amplifier, 4K Scaling, MHL port for phones, USB playback, Toroidal power supply.

it's even got a USB Audio input so you can connect a computer or laptop and use the Oppo DAC. it's also got a HDMI input so you can connect a device like a digital cable box and use the Oppo video processor.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> Emotiva has a new pre/pro coming out
> http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/processors/products/xmc1
> 
> Emotiva UMC-200 already out
> http://shop.emotiva.com/products/umc200
> 
> Outlaw 975
> http://www.outlawaudio.com/products/975.html


My UMC-200 will be here in the next couple of days. I thought about the XMC-1 and someday I might upgrade but I figure if I buy the UMC-200 the next processor I buy I will get at 25% off because of the upgrade for life program and that coupled with selling my UMC-200 used when the time comes I will easily recoup my $600 into the UMC-200, so in other words no reason not to buy it now


----------



## givmedew

Anybody heard of the "Sherwood Newcastle P-965"?

I just picked up one for $150 shipped with a MX500 universal remote great condition. I am wondering if it's going to be a good unit. Online it looks like it once cost $1499.99 but I have never heard of the company before. At $150 it was worth the gamble.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Anybody heard of the "Sherwood Newcastle P-965"?
> 
> I just picked up one for $150 shipped with a MX500 universal remote great condition. I am wondering if it's going to be a good unit. Online it looks like it once cost $1499.99 but I have never heard of the company before. At $150 it was worth the gamble.


doesn't look like it does the HD audio formats, not sure if that matters to you or not


----------



## youra6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Anybody heard of the "Sherwood Newcastle P-965"?
> 
> I just picked up one for $150 shipped with a MX500 universal remote great condition. I am wondering if it's going to be a good unit. Online it looks like it once cost $1499.99 but I have never heard of the company before. At $150 it was worth the gamble.


I believe it is a decent deal. It has been compared to a Rotel RSP-1068 which was a solid preamp. I was looking at the Rotel unit on audiogon, it was going for 300-350 dollars used.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Anybody heard of the "Sherwood Newcastle P-965"?
> 
> I just picked up one for $150 shipped with a MX500 universal remote great condition. I am wondering if it's going to be a good unit. Online it looks like it once cost $1499.99 but I have never heard of the company before. At $150 it was worth the gamble.


Logitech Harmony and the only remotes!


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Anybody heard of the "Sherwood Newcastle P-965"?
> 
> I just picked up one for $150 shipped with a MX500 universal remote great condition. I am wondering if it's going to be a good unit. Online it looks like it once cost $1499.99 but I have never heard of the company before. At $150 it was worth the gamble.
> 
> 
> 
> doesn't look like it does the HD audio formats, not sure if that matters to you or not
Click to expand...

I don't think it does. I mean if it was a concert and could really make use of those codecs I think it would matter to me but I don't watch concerts too often.

One thing I am wondering is when I am watching a blu-ray DVD on my playstation and it says PCM on the receiver what exactly is happening? Is the PS3 decoding the sound and sending it in bitstream or something? I know what PCM stands for (in the telecommunications sense) but I don't really know what it means in this situation.

If the PS3 is decoding the surround sound does it matter if the pre/pro can handle HD codecs? Or is that not even what the PS3 is doing? d I only have a 5.1 setup and only play movies from my PS3.


----------



## hertz9753

http://www.audioreview.com/cat/amplification/a-v-preamplifier/sherwood-newcastle/p-965/prd_334331_2719crx.aspx

Am I missing somthing. What are worried about?


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.audioreview.com/cat/amplification/a-v-preamplifier/sherwood-newcastle/p-965/prd_334331_2719crx.aspx
> 
> Am I missing somthing. What are worried about?


doesn't do dolby true-hd or dts master audio

I believe the PS3 would do the decoding and then output as PCM, that should work though for those audio formats


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> doesn't do dolby true-hd or dts master audio
> 
> I believe the PS3 would do the decoding and then output as PCM, that should work though for those audio formats


That's what I was thinking. The pre-amp will only show PCM.


----------



## givmedew

Not because of any surround sound related things but I already have a tiny amount of buyers remorse and I have not even received anything. I think I got good enough deals on everything to sell them back at the same price if I choose to.

The thing I am wondering is if anyone thinks that this an Integra DTR-50.2 Receiver would make a better pre/pro than the Sherwood Newcastle?

Also I know the Integra uses Odyssey room correction, but I am not certain what the Sherwood uses.

I also care but don't know if I should care that I am forfeiting any video processing I would have got from the Sherwood or the Integra since for video my PS3 will be going straight to the 42" monitors only HDMI input and if I ever need more than 1 HDMI source I have a switch but don't really trust the quality of those anyways.

With the Integra I think I would have been able to focus all my amplifier money on the front 2 channels and let the built in 4ohm stable push pull amps do the rest of the work.

Wondering what you guys think... I believe I got all of this stuff at low enough prices that even just picking a better time of day and taking better pictures I would be able to recoup what I paid for the stuff on eBay.

Some of the amps I may keep to power the front 3 speakers anyways.

I don't care too much about the quality difference between the HD surround audio codecs since I think the PS3 handles them for me.


----------



## bumblebee1980

the Integra is not a pre/pro. WHO IS GOING TO WANT TO BUY A SHERWOOD NEWCASTLE PRE/PRO FROM 2005? lol if you don't care about video or audio processing why even bother? just stop spending money.


----------



## bumblebee1980

what kind of television do you have?


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> the Integra is not a pre/pro. WHO IS GOING TO WANT TO BUY A SHERWOOD NEWCASTLE PRE/PRO FROM 2005? lol if you don't care about video or audio processing why even bother? just stop spending money.


I care about the audio processing which I think I made very clear. Thanks for the knock though. Looking at forums and sales of other processors and equipment I would say there is a very strong market for old equipment including pre/pro. Also I am not an idiot I know that the Integra is not a pre/pro but I also know what makes the difference between an entry level pre/pro and a receiver that is sold by the same company. I have been trained by B+K, Matin Logan, Sumiko, and countless other companies over 100HRs to be exact. Most of the emphasis on whole house audio and not so much great 2 ch audio. And for a company like Integra or B&K the difference between there pre/pro and there receiver is almost nothing!

I apologize that I thought there where nothing but adults on this forum. Obviously I have stumbled across someone who thinks you have to spend a billion dollars on things to have nice stuff. I paid $400 for a pair of Mozart Grand's have the picture to prove I own them. $600 for a Maestro, $600 for Haydn Grands, traded a crappy rc car for $1100 Jamo Concert Surrounds. Paid $75 for my RX-V3000 in 2002.

So while I may not have the money you have which means I can't go out and buy a brand new Emotiva XMP-1 (which by the way to the customers I used to have that would be considered garbage) I still love to have good sounding audio.

I also know that as far as amplifies go that excluding T/D Class amps amplifier technology is basically at a stand still. The parts that made an amp great 10 years ago (hell 30 yrs ago) ARE IDENTICAL TODAY!!! So you can waste your money on brand new stuff. I will pass!

It took me 8 years from the first pair of Vienna Acoustics to finally getting the Mozart's.

My questions where valid and I am so sorry that someone out there is trying to build a good sounding system for pennies on your dollars but deal with.

If you don't have something helpful to add then can it.

I would call this a nearly last strike for this thread... If people can't be decent human beings then obviously I was right about what I originally thought. Which is I can't get good Hi-Fi advice from an overclocking website.

Hopefully someone will prove me wrong.


----------



## Sazexa

Stuff finally all came in! Very happy, very pleased...


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Stuff finally all came in! Very happy, very pleased...


nice..

you want to set them up in a equilateral triangle.

http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-MOPAD-Isolation-Charcoal-speakers/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363033548&sr=8-1

these will decouple them from your desk so they won't vibrate and help angle them for better imaging. since they are rear firing you might want to move them away from the wall a little bit.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> nice..
> 
> you want to set them up in a equilateral triangle.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-MOPAD-Isolation-Charcoal-speakers/dp/B0002D0B4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363033548&sr=8-1
> 
> these will decouple them from your desk so they won't vibrate and help angle them for better imaging. since they are rear firing you might want to move them away from the wall a little bit.


They have little pads under them already, but you can't see them. They've got about 0.75" off the wall. I don't really plan on moving them, at least for a while. If I do, it'll be after getting floor stands to raiser them to my ear level. Thanks for the advice though.


----------



## bumblebee1980

you want them at least the length of your hand away from the wall. that probably won't be possible. you don't have a lot of space to work with. if the speakers were front firing it wouldn't matter as much.

this is another difference maker.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001140OZ0/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p267_d0_i4?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=19EEY85C4S61DYR0QQM3&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1389517282&pf_rd_i=507846


----------



## Sazexa

Not that I'm trying to be difficult or a pain, but what is so bad if the speakers ports are hear the wall? Aren't they simply for a bit of bass and ventilation?
I had my Polk 40's about the same distance, maybe a .25" more away, from the wall and never had a problem. My sub woofer definitely makes up for that.

I'm not looking for absolutely flawless audio. Just better than what your typical pc/computer speakers sound as.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Not that I'm trying to be difficult or a pain, but what is so bad if the speakers ports are hear the wall? Aren't they simply for a bit of bass and ventilation?
> I had my Polk 40's about the same distance, maybe a .25" more away, from the wall and never had a problem. My sub woofer definitely makes up for that.
> 
> I'm not looking for absolutely flawless audio. Just better than what your typical pc/computer speakers sound as.


the manual or information sheet should cover this. if the speakers are too close to the wall, you can get rear wall reflections. if the port hole is too close to the wall, unwanted resonance can build up. if the speakers have port plugs use them.


----------



## Sazexa

When I'm home tonight I'll angle them, and also pull the out a bit to see if it makes much of a difference.


----------



## bumblebee1980

oh and if the speakers are too close together.. you will get a smaller soundstage









is your room square? can you rearrange it?


----------



## Sazexa

My desk is 60" wide, so they have fair spacing for my listening distance.
My room is more of a rectangle, but not much I can do due to other furniture in the room.


----------



## bumblebee1980

rectangle is what you want









I was going to say if you have a square room like a lot of people, you can turn it into a rectangle with bookshelves which double as storage.


----------



## Sazexa

Well, the speakers are about 3 feet apart. And each one is about the same, little bit more,.distanced from my ears. I'm more concerned with the left reflecting off the wall than their triangular placement for now.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, the speakers are about 3 feet apart. And each one is about the same, little bit more,.distanced from my ears. I'm more concerned with the left reflecting off the wall than their triangular placement for now.


Your more likely to have reflections with the speakers at a 90 degree angle than if you toe them in. When you are supper close to the speakers it is no longer an equilateral triangle that you shoot for. I could draw why but it makes common sense if you think about it for a bit so just tow them out just a tad from equilateral and then play with them a bit. Depending on the dispersion of the tweeter they may or may not need to be towed out more than most would think. This is especially true of brands that have a very wide dispersion compared to others.

A long time ago I want to say that all Klipsch speakers had a 60 degree dispersion for the horn but one look at those horns and I can tell you that they are probably not the same dispersion as before. They probably changed the vertical because it didn't use to match the horizontal. You would need to double check.

For example I have a pair of Martin Logan Encore and a Pair of Vienna Haydn's and the Haydn's need to be out a little more than the Logan's.

Just play with it a bit and read some guides on speaker placement. Just remember none of the rules are concrete and usually yes if the speakers are close to the wall you may need to plug the ports.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, the speakers are about 3 feet apart. And each one is about the same, little bit more,.distanced from my ears. I'm more concerned with the left reflecting off the wall than their triangular placement for now.


you might have better luck wall mounting them.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> you might have better luck wall mounting them.


It's not "my house", being nineteen, so I don't really have a say in this kind of thing. x]

I moved them around a bit. Tried pull them out a bit, angling them, nothing really made a significant enough difference, or a difference that I liked, to warrant moving them from how I have them picture, so I'm leaving them as is for now because it works and fits nicely.

But again, thanks for the tips guys. I had this "problem" with my Monitor 40's, so I left them as they were, also.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Not because of any surround sound related things but I already have a tiny amount of buyers remorse and I have not even received anything. I think I got good enough deals on everything to sell them back at the same price if I choose to.
> 
> The thing I am wondering is if anyone thinks that this an Integra DTR-50.2 Receiver would make a better pre/pro than the Sherwood Newcastle?
> 
> Also I know the Integra uses Odyssey room correction, but I am not certain what the Sherwood uses.
> 
> I also care but don't know if I should care that I am forfeiting any video processing I would have got from the Sherwood or the Integra since for video my PS3 will be going straight to the 42" monitors only HDMI input and if I ever need more than 1 HDMI source I have a switch but don't really trust the quality of those anyways.
> 
> With the Integra I think I would have been able to focus all my amplifier money on the front 2 channels and let the built in 4ohm stable push pull amps do the rest of the work.
> 
> Wondering what you guys think... I believe I got all of this stuff at low enough prices that even just picking a better time of day and taking better pictures I would be able to recoup what I paid for the stuff on eBay.
> 
> Some of the amps I may keep to power the front 3 speakers anyways.
> 
> I don't care too much about the quality difference between the HD surround audio codecs since I think the PS3 handles them for me.


The Integra DTR-50.2 would be a better pre-amp for home theature. I run old Adcom amps for my Polk LSi 9's. They are also 4omh speakers.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Not because of any surround sound related things but I already have a tiny amount of buyers remorse and I have not even received anything. I think I got good enough deals on everything to sell them back at the same price if I choose to.
> 
> The thing I am wondering is if anyone thinks that this an Integra DTR-50.2 Receiver would make a better pre/pro than the Sherwood Newcastle?
> 
> Also I know the Integra uses Odyssey room correction, but I am not certain what the Sherwood uses.
> 
> I also care but don't know if I should care that I am forfeiting any video processing I would have got from the Sherwood or the Integra since for video my PS3 will be going straight to the 42" monitors only HDMI input and if I ever need more than 1 HDMI source I have a switch but don't really trust the quality of those anyways.
> 
> With the Integra I think I would have been able to focus all my amplifier money on the front 2 channels and let the built in 4ohm stable push pull amps do the rest of the work.
> 
> Wondering what you guys think... I believe I got all of this stuff at low enough prices that even just picking a better time of day and taking better pictures I would be able to recoup what I paid for the stuff on eBay.
> 
> Some of the amps I may keep to power the front 3 speakers anyways.
> 
> I don't care too much about the quality difference between the HD surround audio codecs since I think the PS3 handles them for me.
> 
> 
> 
> The Integra DTR-50.2 would be a better pre-amp for home theature. I run old Adcom amps for my Polk LSi 9's. They are also 4omh speakers.
Click to expand...

Yeh I am really thinking that now. I have the Sherwood HDMI switch thing that takes the component from the pre/pro and routes it to the HDMI and it also takes 2 HDMI inputs and strips the audio from them to go to the pre/pro. It doesn't add any post processing to the component signal so any standard definition sources that the Sherwood applies post processing to will still look as if I went straight from the pre/pro to the TVs component input. Which my TV doesn't actually have anyways. It only has as single HDMI and composite.

I am going to give this thing a go for a while but will probably end up selling it and getting the DTR-50.2

If I had known this switch existed 3 years ago I would have never stopped using my Yamaha RX-V3000 and instead of wasting money on a Pioneer Elite I probably would have used that money for a nice amp or to put towards getting a Martin Logan Depth or a Rel Strata III those are my dream subs.

Thanks for the help... I am sure I will have more questions later.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Yeh I am really thinking that now. I have the Sherwood HDMI switch thing that takes the component from the pre/pro and routes it to the HDMI and it also takes 2 HDMI inputs and strips the audio from them to go to the pre/pro. It doesn't add any post processing to the component signal so any standard definition sources that the Sherwood applies post processing to will still look as if I went straight from the pre/pro to the TVs component input. Which my TV doesn't actually have anyways. It only has as single HDMI and composite.
> 
> I am going to give this thing a go for a while but will probably end up selling it and getting the DTR-50.2
> 
> If I had known this switch existed 3 years ago I would have never stopped using my Yamaha RX-V3000 and instead of wasting money on a Pioneer Elite I probably would have used that money for a nice amp or to put towards getting a Martin Logan Depth or a Rel Strata III those are my dream subs.
> 
> Thanks for the help... I am sure I will have more questions later.


http://www.accessories4less.com/

I bought my Onkyo 808 that I use as my pre amp and to power my surrounds from them.


----------



## Derp

Looking for advice from you guys with experience. All of these are $50 shipped for two speakers. Which set should I purchase?

1. Micca MB42. Seems new, only a few reviews but they seem positive.

http://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363261197&sr=8-1&keywords=micca+mb42



2. Dayton B652. Has mixed reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-B652-Bookshelf-Speaker/dp/B002RMPHMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1363261458&sr=8-1&keywords=b652



3. BIC DV-32b. Small speakers that have excellent reviews. Someone even went as far as saying that these put the Dayton B652's to absolute shame.

http://www.amazon.com/BIC-AMERICA-DV-32B-Shielded-Speakers/dp/B00006JPDF/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1363261024&sr=8-5&keywords=bic+speakers



Suggestions? If you have any alternatives in mind, please post them here, even if they cost a bit more.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Never heard of the first set, but that doesn't mean anything about the speakers. The Dayton B652's are an extremely popular budget-oriented speaker with amazing sound for the price. I've heard them myself, they've got some surprisingly good sound, though IMO there are better options. The BIC's I also haven't heard, but I've gotten three of my friends to buy BIC DV62si's for their desks, every single person has been absolutely shocked with how amazing they are. They, surprisingly, don't have much in the way of low end without some EQing at the source, but after that, you'll be impressed.

Just my $0.02 of somewhat helpful but not really information.


----------



## aksthem1

The Micca MB42 and the Dayton B652 as far as I know both use a single capacitor for a crossover. I don't consider that to be a proper crossover. So that's the weakness of both those systems. Now the B652 just completely lack bass even for the size and that enclosure is just crap. The Micca seem to be more solidly built and that port does help the low end extension. It does sound a bit better too, but it's kind of a give and take situation.

I can't comment on the BIC though.


----------



## friend'scatdied

I prefer no crossovers myself.









I wonder if enclosure or crossover design is more important for budget-midrange speakers.


----------



## Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> The Micca MB42 and the Dayton B652 as far as I know both use a single capacitor for a crossover. I don't consider that to be a proper crossover. So that's the weakness of both those systems. Now the B652 just completely lack bass even for the size and that enclosure is just crap. The Micca seem to be more solidly built and that port does help the low end extension. It does sound a bit better too, but it's kind of a give and take situation.
> 
> I can't comment on the BIC though.


Would your opinion change between the two if they were used with a sub?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> They have little pads under them already, but you can't see them. They've got about 0.75" off the wall. I don't really plan on moving them, at least for a while. If I do, it'll be after getting floor stands to raiser them to my ear level. Thanks for the advice though.


If you have a table saw around it's not too difficult to make some nice looking stands for cheap. Stands available for purchase are ridiculously overpriced. I built some for my desk that are just two side by side 2x4's sandwiched between two pieces of mdf. I'll post a pic sometime. I didn't even finish (stain/varnish/paint) them and they look great. If you already have that thin layer of foam on the bottom, stands will help more than the expensive foam.

Speaking of overpriced, auralex is overpriced







. Don't buy them. Buy these.

Since this is a speaker club I feel that it's my duty to make sure everyone buys this stuff. http://www.foambymail.com/acoustical-foam-products.html It's dirt cheap and gets the job done. Acoustic foam everywhere else is way overpriced.


----------



## bumblebee1980

thanks for the monitor pads but don't put that acoustic foam on your wall. it only absorbs higher frequencies. owens corning is much better.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derp*
> 
> Would your opinion change between the two if they were used with a sub?


With a sub I'd take the Micca.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> thanks for the monitor pads but don't put that acoustic foam on your wall. it only absorbs higher frequencies. owens corning is much better.


Thats why you need the thicker stuff too. And bass traps. There are specs for the pyramid, wedge, and corner/broadband foam, so you can make a good decision. The thing ppl forget is thin foam still absorbs low frequencies, just not completely. Look at the datasheets for more info.

Do you have a link for owens corning? All I found was insulation


----------



## bumblebee1980

there are tutorials all over the internet how to make panels.






you can substitute burlap with any fabric.

GIKAcoustics is a good place to start to setting up a room.

http://gikacoustics.com/educational-videos/

I highly recommend Gearslutz

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/studio-building-acoustics/


----------



## bumblebee1980

oh and your looking for owens corning 703 or 705 fiberglass.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> oh and your looking for owens corning 703 or 705 fiberglass.


As much as I'd love my walls to be covered in 4" wedge foam, that's a much classier way to go. The 'studio' look would definitely get old after a while.









I'll definitely look into building some of those once I have my own place. Right now I barely use speakers at home.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Bill of Materials
> 2 Cases of Owens Corning 703 sound insulation - 6 panels in each case - online $120
> 1 1/2" Dry Wall Screws - Home Depot $3-4 per box
> 20 yards of Burlap Fabric - Joann Fabric $2.99/yd
> 20 - 1"x3"x8' lumber $0.94 each Home Depot
> Staple Gun with 1/2" staples
> 2 Cans of 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive
> Total Cost around $200 for 6 Panels!!!


you can also order kits

http://www.acoustimac.com/acoustic-insulation-materials/diy-kits-1/

lots of online retailers sell thousands of suede, vinyl and polyester fabrics by the yard. if you have a significant other, get her to pick them out









edit: fabrics


----------



## 2k-jacob

I have some Klipsches on my desk, do they count to post?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2k-jacob*
> 
> I have some Klipsches on my desk, do they count to post?


What do you have? The op quit this thread.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> The Micca MB42 and the Dayton B652 as far as I know both use a single capacitor for a crossover. I don't consider that to be a proper crossover. So that's the weakness of both those systems. Now the B652 just completely lack bass even for the size and that enclosure is just crap. The Micca seem to be more solidly built and that port does help the low end extension. It does sound a bit better too, but it's kind of a give and take situation.
> 
> I can't comment on the BIC though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *friend'scatdied*
> 
> I prefer no crossovers myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if enclosure or crossover design is more important for budget-midrange speakers.


I would say at least a capacitor on the tweeter is an absolute must and if they are 3 way speakers a capacitor on the midrange as well. Throwing a capacitor on the lowest range speaker is important as well. Using capacitors will protect your speakers from low end frequencies they can't handle and for the most part can't produce. They will also make the speakers more efficient as they will not be sucking down power to attempt and drive frequencies they just can't hit well. Even on a nice full range 3 way speaker putting an extremely low frequency cut off will decrease power consumption and decrease the chance of the speakers bottoming out from bass they can't even properly produce.

X-Over, enclosure and material in the enclosure all matter and a very basic x-over built with capacitors is going to make a noticeable difference. You can look online somewhere to find the capacitor values that will cut specific frequencies. There used to be these things called bass blockers that where sold in the automotive car audio industry and they made a huge difference even on factory speakers. Even on the cheapest 2 way car speakers there is at least a small capacitor on the tweeter to make sure bass is not going to the tweeter.

Hope this helps... I notice your post is over a 1wk old but figured I would reply in hopes that you read it before you make final decisions.

I know that Vienna Acoustics does not put a low frequency cut on the lows just the mids and highs so it is all up to the designer/owner what is important. I do not do this anymore because I finally got a hold of amps that could handle my speakers (B&K Reference) but I did have capacitors on my mains to reduce extremely low frequencies and it didn't seem to have an effect on bass output except that it was now less likely to fade away on long bass hits.


----------



## friend'scatdied

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I would say at least a capacitor on the tweeter is an absolute must and if they are 3 way speakers a capacitor on the midrange as well. Throwing a capacitor on the lowest range speaker is important as well. Using capacitors will protect your speakers from low end frequencies they can't handle and for the most part can't produce. They will also make the speakers more efficient as they will not be sucking down power to attempt and drive frequencies they just can't hit well. Even on a nice full range 3 way speaker putting an extremely low frequency cut off will decrease power consumption and decrease the chance of the speakers bottoming out from bass they can't even properly produce.
> 
> X-Over, enclosure and material in the enclosure all matter and a very basic x-over built with capacitors is going to make a noticeable difference. You can look online somewhere to find the capacitor values that will cut specific frequencies. There used to be these things called bass blockers that where sold in the automotive car audio industry and they made a huge difference even on factory speakers. Even on the cheapest 2 way car speakers there is at least a small capacitor on the tweeter to make sure bass is not going to the tweeter.
> 
> Hope this helps... I notice your post is over a 1wk old but figured I would reply in hopes that you read it before you make final decisions.


Thanks for that, but I've had my final decisions for over a year now -- Anthony Gallo Reference Stradas. No crossovers.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I would say at least a capacitor on the tweeter is an absolute must and if they are 3 way speakers a capacitor on the midrange as well. Throwing a capacitor on the lowest range speaker is important as well. Using capacitors will protect your speakers from low end frequencies they can't handle and for the most part can't produce. They will also make the speakers more efficient as they will not be sucking down power to attempt and drive frequencies they just can't hit well. Even on a nice full range 3 way speaker putting an extremely low frequency cut off will decrease power consumption and decrease the chance of the speakers bottoming out from bass they can't even properly produce.
> 
> X-Over, enclosure and material in the enclosure all matter and a very basic x-over built with capacitors is going to make a noticeable difference. You can look online somewhere to find the capacitor values that will cut specific frequencies. There used to be these things called bass blockers that where sold in the automotive car audio industry and they made a huge difference even on factory speakers. Even on the cheapest 2 way car speakers there is at least a small capacitor on the tweeter to make sure bass is not going to the tweeter.
> 
> Hope this helps... I notice your post is over a 1wk old but figured I would reply in hopes that you read it before you make final decisions.
> 
> I know that Vienna Acoustics does not put a low frequency cut on the lows just the mids and highs so it is all up to the designer/owner what is important. I do not do this anymore because I finally got a hold of amps that could handle my speakers (B&K Reference) but I did have capacitors on my mains to reduce extremely low frequencies and it didn't seem to have an effect on bass output except that it was now less likely to fade away on long bass hits.


For what its worth, a lot of amps have subsonic filters on them. At least in car audio. Because those guys are crazy.







Actually one of mine has a subsonic filter built into the bass boost which is actually a cool idea. Meaning you boost say 25hz to extend your bass response and it cuts off below that so you don't damage your subs. I don't use it though because I'm not that crazy. yet.


----------



## hatrix216

I think I qualify for the club. Did with my old setup too, but it's long gone. Used to run Hi-fi in 5.1 with Yamaha floorstanding as my mains, then went back to 2.1 when I no longer had the space for a good 5.1 setup to watch movies.

Now I run studio monitors. Pair of Mackie MR5Mk2s. Also run a sub with them for music listening, a Sundown E8v3 put in my old HTIB Onkyo sub box. Replaced the aero port, tuned it properly made sure it was the right cuft^3. Sub doesn't get here until Tuesday but the box is ready ! Old sub is much louder now.


----------



## Volvo

I think I should have the kit to join now.





HiVi H2S, HiVi H6 Sub, Canare 2105 Line Level Cable, Speakercraft & Amphenol plugs.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> I think I qualify for the club. Did with my old setup too, but it's long gone. Used to run Hi-fi in 5.1 with Yamaha floorstanding as my mains, then went back to 2.1 when I no longer had the space for a good 5.1 setup to watch movies.
> 
> Now I run studio monitors. Pair of Mackie MR5Mk2s. Also run a sub with them for music listening, a Sundown E8v3 put in my old HTIB Onkyo sub box. Replaced the aero port, tuned it properly made sure it was the right cuft^3. Sub doesn't get here until Tuesday but the box is ready ! Old sub is much louder now.


Nice setup... I love near field 2CH listening setups...

Only thing I can say and I could def be wrong but unless you are putting your head right about where that pad is I think you have your speakers towed in way to much. You may have your reasons and I am no pro so not trying to dis your setup at all...

Anyways again I def like... I kind of want to go the studio monitor route myself so that I don't have to have a huge rack mount amp on my desk. So nice gear!


----------



## ayaname

hey guys.. sorry im new here..

uhmm maybe u can suggest me one good speaker for music/videos and gaming as well..

the Swan HiVi D1080MKII 2.0, Audioengine A2 and Harman Kardon Soundstikcs III is what i have in mind..

Maybe you can tell me how this speakers work out for you guys

thanks in advance


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ayaname*
> 
> hey guys.. sorry im new here..
> 
> uhmm maybe u can suggest me one good speaker for music/videos and gaming as well..
> 
> the Swan HiVi D1090MKII 2.0, Audioengine A2 and Harman Kardon Soundstikcs III is what i have in mind..
> 
> Maybe you can tell me how this speakers work out for you guys
> 
> thanks in advance


What is your price range?

The Emotiva Monitors may be something for you to look at. Emotiva Airmotiv 4 $314 no tax free fedex shipping.

Not entirely a fan of how the Audioengine A2 has the amp for both speakers in one speaker. The Emotiva's are bi-amped so 2 amps in each speaker 1 for the highs and 1 for the lows.

I know they cost $114 more but maybe that is worth it to you. Emotiva has a great warranty as well.
---

If you can only buy one of the 3 you mentioned I would probably go for the Audioengine A2 but I think you would enjoy the Airmotiv 4's much more. I would not purchase the soundsticks but that is just my opinion.


----------



## ayaname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> What is your price range?
> 
> The Emotiva Monitors may be something for you to look at. Emotiva Airmotiv 4 $314 no tax free fedex shipping.
> 
> Not entirely a fan of how the Audioengine A2 has the amp for both speakers in one speaker. The Emotiva's are bi-amped so 2 amps in each speaker 1 for the highs and 1 for the lows.
> 
> I know they cost $114 more but maybe that is worth it to you. Emotiva has a great warranty as well.
> ---
> 
> If you can only buy one of the 3 you mentioned I would probably go for the Audioengine A2 but I think you would enjoy the Airmotiv 4's much more. I would not purchase the soundsticks but that is just my opinion.


well, those 3 speakers i mentioned is the easiest to find here in my country.. i havent heard of the emotiva brand yet and i dont think we have it here available.
As for budget, i think converting my currency to usd, its around $200 more or less..


----------



## hertz9753

http://www.klipsch.com/promedia-2-1-computer-speakers

I have used them on my pc and they are pretty good.


----------



## ayaname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.klipsch.com/promedia-2-1-computer-speakers
> 
> I have used them on my pc and they are pretty good.


well i think its pretty hard to find too in my country... :/


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ayaname*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.klipsch.com/promedia-2-1-computer-speakers
> 
> I have used them on my pc and they are pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> well i think its pretty hard to find too in my country... :/
Click to expand...

LOL










You are on the right track looking at studio monitorish speakers in my opinion.

I really like the Audioengine A2

I have listened to something called a 1080 maybe from HiVi but never heard of the 1090... maybe it is the replacement to the 1080 I have no clue. Can't go wrong in my book with the A2s or the 1080s but again no clue if the 1090 is even close to the 1080s. I didn't remember the 1080s being "affordable".

IMO Stay away from those sticks. That is just my opinion but I have a strong feeling those where designed to look like a clear iMac a long time ago. Sure they have changed them since then but... no thanks!

It would obviously be hard to find but post anything else you consider affordable that is close to those A2s. Don't forget to look in the used market. Just read read read reviews. Reviews are usually quick to point out really poor quality speakers if the review was done by a good place. Obviously if they favorably review a pair of Logitech desktop speakers then walk away because anything over $100 that looks cool is going to sound good to them but if you find a place that does a decent job reviewing stuff you can at least get an idea weather it is junk or not.

The nice thing about nearfield listening is it doesn't take to much power which opens up the availability. I could easily see how a country could then further reduce that availability.

Good luck and if you are not sure just post any ideas you have. There is also the possibility of going with some around $100-150 speakers and a used stand alone amp or a $40-50 T-amp I know a lot of people don't like to admit that t-amps are decent especially for those looking for affordability. They are great amps though as long as they have a the right chip in them. You can usually find reviews... cross reference the chip number with the review and if you can the model itself. The Sonic T amp that first made such a stir up in the audio community quite a while ago I purchased tore down and rebuilt but even before rebuilding it the thing sounded great at 3 ft. Bass anemic till it was rebuilt but still good sound.

So just an option. Also a t-amp takes up no space. You could probably go as far as shoving one into a speaker if you where really good with that kind of stuff.


----------



## ayaname

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are on the right track looking at studio monitorish speakers in my opinion.
> 
> I really like the Audioengine A2
> 
> I have listened to something called a 1080 maybe from HiVi but never heard of the 1090... maybe it is the replacement to the 1080 I have no clue. Can't go wrong in my book with the A2s or the 1080s but again no clue if the 1090 is even close to the 1080s. I didn't remember the 1080s being "affordable".
> 
> IMO Stay away from those sticks. That is just my opinion but I have a strong feeling those where designed to look like a clear iMac a long time ago. Sure they have changed them since then but... no thanks!
> 
> It would obviously be hard to find but post anything else you consider affordable that is close to those A2s. Don't forget to look in the used market. Just read read read reviews. Reviews are usually quick to point out really poor quality speakers if the review was done by a good place. Obviously if they favorably review a pair of Logitech desktop speakers then walk away because anything over $100 that looks cool is going to sound good to them but if you find a place that does a decent job reviewing stuff you can at least get an idea weather it is junk or not.
> 
> The nice thing about nearfield listening is it doesn't take to much power which opens up the availability. I could easily see how a country could then further reduce that availability.
> 
> Good luck and if you are not sure just post any ideas you have. There is also the possibility of going with some around $100-150 speakers and a used stand alone amp or a $40-50 T-amp I know a lot of people don't like to admit that t-amps are decent especially for those looking for affordability. They are great amps though as long as they have a the right chip in them. You can usually find reviews... cross reference the chip number with the review and if you can the model itself. The Sonic T amp that first made such a stir up in the audio community quite a while ago I purchased tore down and rebuilt but even before rebuilding it the thing sounded great at 3 ft. Bass anemic till it was rebuilt but still good sound.
> 
> So just an option. Also a t-amp takes up no space. You could probably go as far as shoving one into a speaker if you where really good with that kind of stuff.


hmm thank you so much for your reply.. with everything you said. i think i will change my choices to either of the following:

Swan HiVi D1080MKII 2.0
AudioEngine A2
Swan HiVi M50W (over my budget)

oh and sorry, its Swan HiVi D1080, not D1090 i think they dont have those yet








and ill stay away with the sticks.









maybe if its a 2.0 speaker system, ill just buy a sub for it since im into music with lots of bass like house music, club remixes etc. etc..
can you share your experience with the A2? i really like how it looks but i dont know the performance of it since no test units are to be found here in my country..


----------



## ZombieJon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Good luck and if you are not sure just post any ideas you have. There is also the possibility of going with some around $100-150 speakers and a used stand alone amp or a $40-50 T-amp I know a lot of people don't like to admit that t-amps are decent especially for those looking for affordability. They are great amps though as long as they have a the right chip in them. You can usually find reviews... cross reference the chip number with the review and if you can the model itself. The Sonic T amp that first made such a stir up in the audio community quite a while ago I purchased tore down and rebuilt but even before rebuilding it the thing sounded great at 3 ft. Bass anemic till it was rebuilt but still good sound.


Between the Topping TP60 and the Poppulse T150 Pro (if still available), which would you pick up? Limited between these two only.


----------



## givmedew

Wow that was way left field... Are we talking about nearfield listening or living room... if living room I don't know that I would buy either but for nearfield I love both of those designs but I have listened to neither.

Both are based off the TA2022 chip the TP60 has 2 transformers. None of that really matters because either could sound better than the other... Just looking at specs I would say go with the cheaper one which I think will be the TP60.

If you EVER plan on buying a second one of them I would probably go with the POPPULSE T150. Also if you ever plan on buying a DAC with balanced outputs and you care to use them (requires 2 of those amps) then the T150.

If you are doing nearfield listening I couldn't see the need for 2 amps.

Those will not have the bass issues the T-amp I originally had.

----

There is a review for the Poppulse http://www.enjoythemusic.com/magazine/equipment/1209/king_rex_preference_pop_pulse_t150.htm

Bottom line when reading the review is although there are things the person references as not being perfect in the end you have to look at the price tag. The reviewer gave the amp 4.5 musical notes out of 5 for value. Also the review is about 2 products so don't get confused by speed reading it. Either read the whole review or just skip to the conclusion.

Still though I think that if we are talking nearfield only listening and no plans to ever buy a second amp I would be going with the Topping TP60. If your plans are to upgrade later the Poppulse leaves a nice upgrade path BUT that is only if you can find the same exact amp later. We are talking about china the same people who somehow turned an industrial river red and said OH WE DON'T KNOW HOW THAT HAPPENED. So who knows if just because you can find one now that you will be able to find one later.

Good luck I would feel proud to own either... At this moment my nearfield listening is done from a huge rack mount B&K and I am really thinking about rebuilding my t-amp again and using it instead. Just mine doesn't create the amount of power those do.


----------



## ZombieJon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Wow that was way left field... Are we talking about nearfield listening or living room... if living room I don't know that I would buy either but for nearfield I love both of those designs but I have listened to neither.
> 
> Both are based off the TA2022 chip the TP60 has 2 transformers. None of that really matters because either could sound better than the other... Just looking at specs I would say go with the cheaper one which I think will be the TP60.
> 
> If you EVER plan on buying a second one of them I would probably go with the POPPULSE T150. Also if you ever plan on buying a DAC with balanced outputs and you care to use them (requires 2 of those amps) then the T150.
> 
> If you are doing nearfield listening I couldn't see the need for 2 amps.
> 
> Those will not have the bass issues the T-amp I originally had.
> 
> [SNIP]
> 
> Still though I think that if we are talking nearfield only listening and no plans to ever buy a second amp I would be going with the Topping TP60. If your plans are to upgrade later the Poppulse leaves a nice upgrade path BUT that is only if you can find the same exact amp later. We are talking about china the same people who somehow turned an industrial river red and said OH WE DON'T KNOW HOW THAT HAPPENED. So who knows if just because you can find one now that you will be able to find one later.


Nearfield for now. It's the main reason why I'm looking into T amps. No space on my desk for fitting anything else. ATM, I highly doubt I'll be going the monoblock route for nearfield.

The TP60 I've seen locally before. The T150...I'll probably have to email Poppulse people or swing by their office.

Guess I'll try to audition both before making a decision.


----------



## longroadtrip

I'd like to join...nothing fancy...Polk Monitor II speakers, Maverick Audio A1 tube amp (upgraded Raytheon 6AK5 tubes)...Have a D2 DAC on the way, hope it sounds decent with the A1...

http://s1083.photobucket.com/user/longroadtrip/media/IMG_4201_zpsd7d5c9ad.jpg.html


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZombieJon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Wow that was way left field... Are we talking about nearfield listening or living room... if living room I don't know that I would buy either but for nearfield I love both of those designs but I have listened to neither.
> 
> Both are based off the TA2022 chip the TP60 has 2 transformers. None of that really matters because either could sound better than the other... Just looking at specs I would say go with the cheaper one which I think will be the TP60.
> 
> If you EVER plan on buying a second one of them I would probably go with the POPPULSE T150. Also if you ever plan on buying a DAC with balanced outputs and you care to use them (requires 2 of those amps) then the T150.
> 
> If you are doing nearfield listening I couldn't see the need for 2 amps.
> 
> Those will not have the bass issues the T-amp I originally had.
> 
> [SNIP]
> 
> Still though I think that if we are talking nearfield only listening and no plans to ever buy a second amp I would be going with the Topping TP60. If your plans are to upgrade later the Poppulse leaves a nice upgrade path BUT that is only if you can find the same exact amp later. We are talking about china the same people who somehow turned an industrial river red and said OH WE DON'T KNOW HOW THAT HAPPENED. So who knows if just because you can find one now that you will be able to find one later.
> 
> 
> 
> Nearfield for now. It's the main reason why I'm looking into T amps. No space on my desk for fitting anything else. ATM, I highly doubt I'll be going the monoblock route for nearfield.
> 
> The TP60 I've seen locally before. The T150...I'll probably have to email Poppulse people or swing by their office.
> 
> Guess I'll try to audition both before making a decision.
Click to expand...

If you have the option to audition them then that is the best way to go. Do they sell these in show rooms where you live? I doubt you will be disappointed with either.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *longroadtrip*
> 
> I'd like to join...nothing fancy...Polk Monitor II speakers, Maverick Audio A1 tube amp (upgraded Raytheon 6AK5 tubes)...Have a D2 DAC on the way, hope it sounds decent with the A1...


It's all very clean looking... nice set up.


----------



## ZombieJon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> If you have the option to audition them then that is the best way to go. Do they sell these in show rooms where you live? I doubt you will be disappointed with either.


I saw the Topping TP60 in a computer mall. The store was showing off a Aune amp on a set of plastic speakers. Not the best place, or equipment to audition. =/ The other time I saw it was in a store geared towards DSLRs, oddly enough.

For PopPulse T150, I'll probably have to email the manufacturing company. Their HQ is in Hong Kong, and I can get there easily once I find the time.


----------



## hertz9753

I would post a picture of my Polk Audio FX500's that I got 2 days ago, but...I won't.


----------



## longroadtrip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> It's all very clean looking... nice set up.










Thanks!


----------



## billbartuska

Yamaha CA-1010
Amphion Argon 2s
JBL PSW 1000 Subwoofer
Audioquest Dragonfly DAC
Aqvox Power Supply (For DAC)
Audioquest Cables (Bi-wired & DAC)
JPlay 5.1 (Mini w/Kernal Streaming)
Asus M5A99X EVO R2
AMD FX6300 (Overclocked)
Speaker Stands are homemade (sand filled)


----------



## iamwardicus

Please include me in the club! Infinity P163 with a DTA-1 amp.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Yamaha CA-1010
> Amphion Argon 2s
> JBL PSW 1000 Subwoofer
> Audioquest Dragonfly DAC
> Aqvox Power Supply (For DAC)
> Audioquest Cables (Bi-wired & DAC)
> JPlay 5.1 (Mini w/Kernal Streaming)
> Asus M5A99X EVO R2
> AMD FX6300 (Overclocked)
> Speaker Stands are homemade (sand filled)


Beautiful









Loose the sand for shot lol just kidding... I used to have a pair of Vienna Acoustics that had an area to fill with sand and I filled it to the top with lead shot then to add even more mass I used sand to fill in the space left from the size of the shot.

Very heavy









Again I like.


----------



## Qbex

Hi , me too, me too.
B&W 685


----------



## givmedew

I just re-did the room my PC is in too make room for a bunk bed and a treadmil....




Something has to give though... it does not sound the same as it did before the move and I am guessing it is the WALL that is the reason. The pillow is there to soak up some reflection while I figure out what I am going to do. The other problem is that it is causing some boominess which is not cool. The subwoofer isn't even hooked up because until I get things back to normal there just ins't any point.

It is a different amplifier than the one I had previous to moving stuff around but I don't think that is the cause of the problems. As soon as a I played the first song I was like ut oh this is no good.

So have to find a way to make the wife happy (turning the office into an office slash guest room slash room where the treadmill is).

Wish me luck LOL!


----------



## JKuhn

Could someone perhaps recommend some decent (but not very expensive) op-amps? I purchased a second-hand receiver, but the sound isn't as detailed as I want. I'm not sure what type of op-amps I'm currently using because I want to keep my warranty for a while to make sure everything works correctly. I do know that the receiver is a 5.2 channel TEK DK-8008

I'll post some pictures to join the club later.


----------



## givmedew

I am not a pro on the subject but unless someone else jumps in maybe start by searching for ones for the ASUS XONAR if they are the same pin out then you may be in luck.

Man I knew you lived in Africa before I even looked at your user info. If you bought that entire TEK HTIB then SWEET I love the way the speakers look.

How can you be certain this is where your problem is thought? OP-Amps are everywhere and I think the effects of a different chip are best heard on a more simple path than a surround receiver. I may be wrong though because like I said I am NOT an expert on this subject!

Are your op-amps socketed or soldered?

If they ARE soldered and you do find that they are the same as the ASUS XONAR op-amps I would recommend that you source some sockets along with the amps and after removing the factory amps install sockets then shove the new ones in.

Again I barely know anything about the subject of swapping those out but start there.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I am not a pro on the subject but unless someone else jumps in maybe start by searching for ones for the ASUS XONAR if they are the same pin out then you may be in luck.
> 
> Man I knew you lived in Africa before I even looked at your user info. If you bought that entire TEK HTIB then SWEET I love the way the speakers look.
> 
> How can you be certain this is where your problem is thought? OP-Amps are everywhere and I think the effects of a different chip are best heard on a more simple path than a surround receiver. I may be wrong though because like I said I am NOT an expert on this subject!
> 
> Are your op-amps socketed or soldered?
> 
> If they ARE soldered and you do find that they are the same as the ASUS XONAR op-amps I would recommend that you source some sockets along with the amps and after removing the factory amps install sockets then shove the new ones in.
> 
> Again I barely know anything about the subject of swapping those out but start there.


I only bought the receiver, so I'm temporarily using satellites and a sub from my old home theater which didn't have any controls. The problem must be in the receiver, because that's the only thing I changed, and I lost quite a bit of detail in the process.

I'm not sure how they're mounted. The receiver has a 6 month warranty, and it's second hand, so I don't want to open it before taking it to a shop so everything can be tested. I might look at the Xonar amps though because that's what my desktop rig has.


----------



## hertz9753

One of the old foam surrounds on my pc speakers cracked. I would like to fix them. I looked for a replacement, But it is such an odd size and the speaker cabinet is cast aluminum


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> One of the old foam surrounds on my pc speakers cracked. I would like to fix them. I looked for a replacement, But it is such an odd size and the speaker cabinet is cast aluminum


WOW!!!!!!!

I had those speakers once my uncle was tossing them so I grabbed them. Heavy as heck for how small they are. They sold those at RadioShack maybe 20 years ago maybe more.

Look and see if a 5 1/4 from a car would fit. Not sure if it will or not... You may want to replace both if you can't repair just the surround. I think there are places that will replace surrounds though.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> WOW!!!!!!!
> 
> I had those speakers once my uncle was tossing them so I grabbed them. Heavy as heck for how small they are. They sold those at RadioShack maybe 20 years ago maybe more.
> 
> Look and see if a 5 1/4 from a car would fit. Not sure if it will or not... You may want to replace both if you can't repair just the surround. I think there are places that will replace surrounds though.


I thought of trying this right after I got to work today. It's a tight fit, but it works!










I bought my speakers 1997. Pics of the tweeter from the Pro 77 and the other set of different speakers puchased around the same time.


----------



## semajha

Can I join? I don't consider myself an audiophile but as an audio enthusiast.

Receiver/Amp: Yamaha A-S2000 w/ Hagerman Bugle Phono
Speakers: Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1
Audio Source: Rotel RP-1010 Turntable
Konnekt 24D Soundcard
Classic Playstation 1001 as CD Player







Kinda bland and sterile...

Bugle isn't in the pics. I'll be making a power supply for it over the summer.


----------



## hertz9753

Polk Audio R15 5.25" woofer and Polk Audio Monitor 70 tweeter in a tiny cabinet. The grill needs some trimming to fit properly.









We only post pics and comments here. The op is gone.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semajha*
> 
> Can I join? I don't consider myself an audiophile but as an audio enthusiast.
> 
> Receiver/Amp: Yamaha A-S2000 w/ Hagerman Bugle Phono
> Speakers: Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1
> Audio Source: Rotel RP-1010 Turntable
> Konnekt 24D Soundcard
> Classic Playstation 1001 as CD Player
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kinda bland and sterile...
> 
> Bugle isn't in the pics. I'll be making a power supply for it over the summer.


You can't join because you are absolutely crazy!!!

Oh wait so is most of the other people...

You are crazy because that is not bland... Sterile as in I would eat off it without fear of getting sick... sure I will give you that but BLAND!!!

That is gorgeous!

Do you work for IKEA? Because this looks like an IKEA add... Just kidding!

Wait no I am not kidding hahah it almost looks like there are not even any cables or anything like it's just a unit nicely squared in a hole... Total IKEA brochure style photo









I love it


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> One of the old foam surrounds on my pc speakers cracked. I would like to fix them. I looked for a replacement, But it is such an odd size and the speaker cabinet is cast aluminum


You should be able to find replacement surrounds on ebay. You should be able to find some that fit based on cone diameter and outside diameter.

I replaced some a while back. It's a little bit of a pain, but it's not that bad.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> You should be able to find replacement surrounds on ebay. You should be able to find some that fit based on cone diameter and outside diameter.
> 
> I replaced some a while back. It's a little bit of a pain, but it's not that bad.


Post 3212 above shows one of the modded speakers.







They sound really good. Pics of everthing that I run for pc sound, clean and kind of shiny.
Onkyo TX-SR603X reciever
Mirage Omni S8 sub


----------



## semajha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> You can't join because you are absolutely crazy!!!
> 
> Oh wait so is most of the other people...
> 
> You are crazy because that is not bland... Sterile as in I would eat off it without fear of getting sick... sure I will give you that but BLAND!!!
> 
> That is gorgeous!
> 
> Do you work for IKEA? Because this looks like an IKEA add... Just kidding!
> 
> Wait no I am not kidding hahah it almost looks like there are not even any cables or anything like it's just a unit nicely squared in a hole... Total IKEA brochure style photo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love it










Thank you, for the flattering words.

I try and keep my room as clean as possible because I can't do anything productive until it is. I say it looks bland because I honestly feel it does.. like something is missing. I'd add more posters or maybe some walls shelves but I think that's the most I'll do since I'll be moving out sometime next year.


----------



## astrallite

Can I has join?

Playing some Witcher 2 on my PC

Fronts: Revel Studio 2
Center: Revel Voice
Surrounds: Revel Gem2/Revel S30
Subwoofer: Velodyne DD-10 Plus
Receiver: Yamaha RX-Z11


----------



## Qbex

@astrallite - wow those are sweet speakers, where you sitting when gaming if you don't mind me asking ?







Screen seems tiny in your set up.


----------



## astrallite

^

I have a desk but I moved it back for the photo. And it's a 32" so I sit about 3 feet away. It's not my HT, I have a separate system for that


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *astrallite*
> 
> ^
> 
> I have a desk but I moved it back for the photo. And it's a 32" so I sit about 3 feet away. It's not my HT, I have a separate system for that


NOT YOUR HT!!! I am jealous of you PC setup LOL! Is your HT setup better?

On another note I finally got around to getting my multi room remote fixed (screen went bad) and was able to get hide my components again so here are just the fronts...

Yes I know the ISO on the camera is too high I had a hell of a time getting a decent photo with all the odd lighting (floor to ceiling windows make up the entire rear wall)



I know the sub enclosure is ugly I am making a new one (it will still be ugly lol) and I have a center channel speaker stand on the way. Cable management after that.


----------



## hertz9753

Velodyne SPL-1000R sub and one of my modded Polk LSi9's. Still cleaning and a 50 pound dog bringing me toys does not help. I love that dog.









http://www.vr3mods.com/CastleLSi9.php


----------



## Crooksy

Hey guys,

I've always been a headphones kind of guy but have been looking into getting a pair of speakers for casual listening and TV series. Now, I know that this area is just as deep as the headphones, so I'm asking you guys for help.

Let's just say that I have a budget of £200 and wanted a pair of speakers for the above mentioned uses. I listen to a varied selection of music so something balanced would be great. But hey, you're the experts so what would you recommend?


----------



## kevindd992002

Which is better between the Edifier HCS2330, M3300SF, S330 and C3?


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crooksy*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've always been a headphones kind of guy but have been looking into getting a pair of speakers for casual listening and TV series. Now, I know that this area is just as deep as the headphones, so I'm asking you guys for help.
> 
> Let's just say that I have a budget of £200 and wanted a pair of speakers for the above mentioned uses. I listen to a varied selection of music so something balanced would be great. But hey, you're the experts so what would you recommend?


M-Audio BX5's are a good option. I have the older bx5a's which are pretty good. If you're going to listen to music a lot I'd recommend a sub, but for casual use they're fine without.

By themselves they measure pretty flat down to at least 100hz. Of course that changes depending on where you put them. Overall I'm pretty happy with them for casual use.

I'm haven't tried out anything else in that price point though. I actually got some 'broken' ones for cheap and changed the power capacitors. That's why I got them







.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> M-Audio BX5's are a good option. I have the older bx5a's which are pretty good. If you're going to listen to music a lot I'd recommend a sub, but for casual use they're fine without.
> 
> By themselves they measure pretty flat down to at least 100hz. Of course that changes depending on where you put them. Overall I'm pretty happy with them for casual use.
> 
> I'm haven't tried out anything else in that price point though. I actually got some 'broken' ones for cheap and changed the power capacitors. That's why I got them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I have to change the power capacitors on my bx8a's. Where did you pick some up? Was it hard? I got the speakers for free and one of them needs to have the capacitors changes out.


----------



## bobfig

digi key or mouser is the place to go.


----------



## mr1hm

hi, stoked i have found this thread









heres my setup:
- M-Audio BX8a Deluxe Speakers
- JBL LSR2310SP Studio Sub
- MBox Mini 3


----------



## dioxholster

what should be the in-game audio settings with 2.0 speakers and xonar card? i read people have their settings as 5.1 in-game regardless, even though its only headphones or 2 speakers.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> digi key or mouser is the place to go.


Thanks! I will check them out!


----------



## mr1hm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> what should be the in-game audio settings with 2.0 speakers and xonar card? i read people have their settings as 5.1 in-game regardless, even though its only headphones or 2 speakers.


hrmm, 2.0 should be fine no? unless theres a big difference between the 2 settings i dont think it matters







.

forgot to post my pic of the setup in my previous post: http://imgur.com/tefkXeL

dont mind the mess of wires


----------



## atarione

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> One of the old foam surrounds on my pc speakers cracked. I would like to fix them. I looked for a replacement, But it is such an odd size and the speaker cabinet is cast aluminum


u could fix the surrounds on the stock minimus77 (well yours are optimus pro 77's but they are the same thing) woofers with a $5~ kit

I bought a pair of these at local thrift $10 then figured out the surrounds were shot...

ordered this..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SMALL-5-surrounds-SPKR-repair-bestQ-inverted-roll-minimus-77-prev-4-1-2-4-3-4-/251277085751?pt=US_Speaker_Parts_Components&hash=item3a81480c37

and just cleaned off the old surrounds and glued these on.. good to go..

I guess sort of moot now that you've stuck the polk tweeters and woofers in...

I gave the minimus 77's i fixed to my wife to use with the Pioneer SX-450 I gave have... sounds pretty good .. my wife likes the SX-450 and the 77s


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> digi key or mouser is the place to go.


x2

Got mine from mouser. Only problem with mouser is you have to pay $5ish for shipping even if you only buy a few caps (at least for where I live). If you have an electronics store near you, you might check there, just don't spend more than a couple dollars per cap.

Also, it's not too difficult to replace them. It's a common problem so you can even find threads where ppl have taken step by step pics. I'm sure the bx8 is similar inside to bx5.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> x2
> 
> Got mine from mouser. Only problem with mouser is you have to pay $5ish for shipping even if you only buy a few caps (at least for where I live). If you have an electronics store near you, you might check there, just don't spend more than a couple dollars per cap.
> 
> Also, it's not too difficult to replace them. It's a common problem so you can even find threads where ppl have taken step by step pics. I'm sure the bx8 is similar inside to bx5.


I hear that it is a common problem. I have found a few sites showing a guide, but not where to buy. Now I know where to buy I just need to fix now. I live in Cali too so it would probably be $5ish shipping to me.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> *I hear that it is a common problem.* I have found a few sites showing a guide, but not where to buy. Now I know where to buy I just need to fix now. I live in Cali too so it would probably be $5ish shipping to me.


You mean blown capacitors? People working with computers came to call it "capacitor plague". Someone stole an incomplete design and flooded the market with cheap capacitors somewhere around 1999. The last major surge of blown capacitors was in 2010.


----------



## lagittaja

Wonder if anyone here has any experience with the Samson Rubicon R10S?
http://www.samsontech.com/samson/products/studio-monitors/rubicon-monitors/r10s/

A discontinued model already but would only be 211€ delivered from Thomann.


----------



## Pidoma

Well I think I have found my problem on why my woofer of my M-Audio BXa8 Deluxe keep crackling.



There is a small hole on the R59. The black stuff is just the glue they use to keep the power cord in place.

Has anyone replaced one of these?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> Well I think I have found my problem on why my woofer of my M-Audio BXa8 Deluxe keep crackling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is a small hole on the R59. The black stuff is just the glue they use to keep the power cord in place.
> 
> Has anyone replaced one of these?


http://www.csgnetwork.com/resistcolcalc.html

Do you know how to solder?


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> http://www.csgnetwork.com/resistcolcalc.html
> 
> Do you know how to solder?


Thanks for the link! I am not that good at soldering, but I know someone who is and they are willing to lend me a hand if necessary.

It looks like it is four colors.... Red black red and either a gold or brown band... Can't really see it that well due to the burn.

So it looks like 2000 Ohms with 5% value tolerance? New to all of this


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> Thanks for the link! I am not that good at soldering, but I know someone who is and they are willing to lend me a hand if necessary.
> 
> It looks like it is four colors.... Red black red and either a gold or brown band... Can't really see it that well due to the burn.
> 
> So it looks like 2000 Ohms with 5% value tolerance? New to all of this


Resistors are color coded. I posted to give you an idea of what to look for. The one on the other side looks to be the same. Find another chart. Good luck!


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Resistors are color coded. I posted to give you an idea of what to look for. The one on the other side looks to be the same. Find another chart. Good luck!


Thanks I will look around


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pidoma*
> 
> Well I think I have found my problem on why my woofer of my M-Audio BXa8 Deluxe keep crackling.
> 
> ...
> 
> There is a small hole on the R59. The black stuff is just the glue they use to keep the power cord in place.
> 
> Has anyone replaced one of these?


yup 2000 ohms looks like. Did you check the caps? Are they bulging or anything?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> yup 2000 ohms looks like. Did you check the caps? Are they bulging or anything?


Nice, reminds of this. Never overlook anything.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Nice, reminds of this. Never overlook anything.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague


That's one advantage of having worked with old computers for quite a long time. After a while you spot it quickly. They sometimes pop at the bottom, so seeing it can be tricky.


----------



## drjoey1500

Kinda off topic, but if any of you have trouble remembering the resistor codes click this link and you'll never forget it. It's kinda dumb, but I guarantee you'll remember at least the important ones







.


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> yup 2000 ohms looks like. Did you check the caps? Are they bulging or anything?


none of the caps look bad. I will take a picture so you can see because I might be a little blind


----------



## lagittaja

Bad caps are real easy to spot.

But anyway, on another note has anyone bought the new HUD-MX2 from Audinst?
I was looking at buying the MX1 but now I noticed the MX2 and it sure has features I'd like.
The volume control knob seems to be improved and the DAC seems better, at least on paper.
Optical input is great also, can have audio from my computer and with a flip of a switch can have audio from my TV for example.

Sent from my GNote


----------



## ZombieJon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja*
> 
> Bad caps are real easy to spot.
> 
> But anyway, on another note has anyone bought the new HUD-MX2 from Audinst?
> I was looking at buying the MX1 but now I noticed the MX2 and it sure has features I'd like.
> The volume control knob seems to be improved and the DAC seems better, at least on paper.
> Optical input is great also, can have audio from my computer and with a flip of a switch can have audio from my TV for example.
> 
> Sent from my GNote


I have it, driving Ultrasone DJ1/HFI-580s. Will be using it as a DAC w/ T-amp once I get a pair of passives in.


----------



## lagittaja

How have you liked it so far?
Good sound quality?
Any issues with the USB connection?

I'll be moving sometime this year and I'll probably buy a new TV first and then some stereo amp (been looking at Denon DRA-F109) and the MX2.

Sent from my GNote


----------



## ZombieJon

Definitely helps with most of the music (increased bass punch, wider soundstage, better treble response).

Sound quality is solid, but I haven't compared to higher end amps/DACs. It will be apples and oranges anyway, since there are very few higher priced DAC+Amp combos out there. CA's DACMagicPlus is one of the very few out there, and there are none available locally for testing.

USB wire has come out only once in the past 5 months.


----------



## hertz9753

I bought another Adcom GFA-555 amp. The psu caps are hard to miss. This what it looked liked when I opened it up.



I paid $215 including shipping for that on ebay. I can't clean it or replace parts, everything is within specs.


----------



## OverclockerFox

Last Wednesday I bought Corsair SP2500 speakers. They weighed a load and I had to lug them across half the city on transit, lol. Had to stop and rest every 20 feet at the end.
Overall they're fantastic, but I think I've been spoiled by the audio on my Steelseries Siberia V.2. In the month I've had the Xonar Essence STX I've gotten used to the better audio on the headset, so while the corsair speakers are much better than the old early-mid 90's speakers I had, they still don't compare in quality to the V.2's. But they /can/ shake the house with volume. O_O Literally.


----------



## astrallite

Moved Revel Voice to rear as rear center channel, got a new Voice 2 to complete my front LCR.


----------



## Lu(ky

Just got these babies today *Adam A7X* now I need to find the best sound card and even a DAC any help direction would be awesome..


----------



## grandmothra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lu(ky*
> 
> Just got these babies today *Adam A7X* now I need to find the best sound card and even a DAC any help direction would be awesome..


Nice









I have a pair of Adam p22a monitors... totally amazing sound, mixes translate extremely well.

What's your budget for a soundcard?

Also, are you looking for an internal or external one?


----------



## OC'ing Noob

I have a pair of Swans M200MKIII. Does that qualify for club membership?


----------



## JKuhn

I'm starting to wonder: should I buy a fibre-optic cable to replace my 3.5mm/RCA? As stated some time back, I have a Xonar DG, a cheap second-hand TEK DK-8008 receiver, and a pair of Pro-linear PL-5.4B bookshelf speakers. Will keeping it digital longer help to recover the detail that I lost since buying the amp (my old speaker set didn't have a volume control)?


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> I'm starting to wonder: should I buy a fibre-optic cable to replace my 3.5mm/RCA? As stated some time back, I have a Xonar DG, a cheap second-hand TEK DK-8008 receiver, and a pair of Pro-linear PL-5.4B bookshelf speakers. Will keeping it digital longer help to recover the detail that I lost since buying the amp (my old speaker set didn't have a volume control)?


That would end up using the DACs inside of your receiver instead of the ones inside of your sound card. Don't know anything about the DACs inside either but if the DACs inside the receiver are of lower quality than the ones inside of the sound card then your answer is no.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> That would end up using the DACs inside of your receiver instead of the ones inside of your sound card. Don't know anything about the DACs inside either but if the DACs inside the receiver are of lower quality than the ones inside of the sound card then your answer is no.


It's a digital receiver, so isn't it currently digital-analogue-digital-analogue?


----------



## givmedew

If you have any sort of Digital Signal Processing turned on then I would suppose so. If it has a direct mode then it should be bypassing the DSP. If it has room correction, auto-eq, etc then turning on direct mode usually disables that as well.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> If you have any sort of Digital Signal Processing turned on then I would suppose so. If it has a direct mode then it should be bypassing the DSP. If it has room correction, auto-eq, etc then turning on direct mode usually disables that as well.


It does have DSP, but it's off. It doesn't have any room correction, etc. I'm not sure how it affects anything, but I can tell that the volume isn't controlled by a potentiometer, the knob continues to turn.


----------



## Lu(ky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grandmothra*
> 
> Nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a pair of Adam p22a monitors... totally amazing sound, mixes translate extremely well.
> 
> What's your budget for a soundcard?
> 
> Also, are you looking for an internal or external one?


I can go up to $300 for the sound card, but my new motherboard is sounding pretty good right now. The A7X are only gaming, listening to music, and watching some Blu-ray's off computer..

Looks like I will only be able to do a RCA from SPEAKERS to SOUND CARD.


----------



## yuyuik

Hello guys, may I join the club? I have a homemade audio equipment, with a passive crossover for 310 Hz cut, 6' sub-woofers (got them cheap in a yard sale, $30 the pair) and a pair of Pioneer speakers for the rest of the band, the amplifier is a car amplifier with a homemade power supply, but sounds great.



the coil for the crossover can be seen above the left speaker


----------



## skyn3t

Do you know anything about this home system here. Good, bad, ok, crappie? I have one brand new in box

http://jonssonaudio.com/products/hometheatre/jo-250/index.html


----------



## givmedew

I don't know anything about them but the pictures are scary. They photo shopped their name onto the speakers, remote and system. All of the photos on the main page are pictures of their stuff photo shopped onto a picture they either bought or just stole.

Where did you buy this?

Also the specs are grossly overrated to the point that it is just flat out lying and the drivers that are in the speakers look like they are cheap ones you would find in a pair of $5-10 speakers.

I am not trying to knock your purchase all I am saying is be careful.

I don't know anything about that HTIB but to me it looks like something someone would put together to sell at a flea market for $150 and say it was like a $1000 system.

Just be careful.


----------



## germslopz

Interesting thread. My Creative speakers recently died and ive been using the internal monitor speakers which arent horrible, but not ideal for gaming or listening to music. I might have to look thru the list for a good 2.0 setup.


----------



## Tiihokatti

I had to use my TV-speakers for a few hours when I bought a replacement xbox360 few weeks ago (old one got rrod years ago).

The first impression was: "Why did I pay 75€ for this piece junk?"
The impression after I hooked up my 2.0 speakers was: "How did I get this piece of heaven for so cheap?"
Hooray for (semi) high-end speakers!


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I don't know anything about them but the pictures are scary. They photo shopped their name onto the speakers, remote and system. All of the photos on the main page are pictures of their stuff photo shopped onto a picture they either bought or just stole.
> 
> Where did you buy this?
> 
> Also the specs are grossly overrated to the point that it is just flat out lying and the drivers that are in the speakers look like they are cheap ones you would find in a pair of $5-10 speakers.
> 
> I am not trying to knock your purchase all I am saying is be careful.
> 
> I don't know anything about that HTIB but to me it looks like something someone would put together to sell at a flea market for $150 and say it was like a $1000 system.
> 
> Just be careful.


My buddy own this set it is brand new in box and he want to sell it. I thought you guys may know any info about it. thanks for the heads up.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I don't know anything about them but the pictures are scary. They photo shopped their name onto the speakers, remote and system. All of the photos on the main page are pictures of their stuff photo shopped onto a picture they either bought or just stole.
> 
> Where did you buy this?
> 
> Also the specs are grossly overrated to the point that it is just flat out lying and the drivers that are in the speakers look like they are cheap ones you would find in a pair of $5-10 speakers.
> 
> I am not trying to knock your purchase all I am saying is be careful.
> 
> I don't know anything about that HTIB but to me it looks like something someone would put together to sell at a flea market for $150 and say it was like a $1000 system.
> 
> Just be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy own this set it is brand new in box and he want to sell it. I thought you guys may know any info about it. thanks for the heads up.
Click to expand...

Looks like a $40 WalMart special to me. 2200w my rear end. That entire setup is maybe, MAYBE 75-100w combined. I also wouldn't trust the claimed frequency response either. Those drivers do NOT look like they're capable of 30Hz-20kHz.

Overall, I'd say your buddy should do the world a favor and just throw those away.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I don't know anything about them but the pictures are scary. They photo shopped their name onto the speakers, remote and system. All of the photos on the main page are pictures of their stuff photo shopped onto a picture they either bought or just stole.
> 
> Where did you buy this?
> 
> Also the specs are grossly overrated to the point that it is just flat out lying and the drivers that are in the speakers look like they are cheap ones you would find in a pair of $5-10 speakers.
> 
> I am not trying to knock your purchase all I am saying is be careful.
> 
> I don't know anything about that HTIB but to me it looks like something someone would put together to sell at a flea market for $150 and say it was like a $1000 system.
> 
> Just be careful.
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy own this set it is brand new in box and he want to sell it. I thought you guys may know any info about it. thanks for the heads up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks like a $40 WalMart special to me. 2200w my rear end. That entire setup is maybe, MAYBE 75-100w combined. I also wouldn't trust the claimed frequency response either. Those drivers do NOT look like they're capable of 30Hz-20kHz.
> 
> Overall, I'd say your buddy should do the world a favor and just throw those away.
Click to expand...

I was trying to beat around the bush in a nice way... it looks like something Jensen would make if they went out of business then started back up with a few x-cons and a kickstarter fund.


----------



## bobfig

i was going to say this earlier but imo those look like the ones that the people that drive around the parking lot during chrismass time try to sell. the ol' "we over ordered and are now trying to get rid of it" scam.


----------



## skyn3t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Looks like a $40 WalMart special to me. 2200w my rear end. That entire setup is maybe, MAYBE 75-100w combined. I also wouldn't trust the claimed frequency response either. Those drivers do NOT look like they're capable of 30Hz-20kHz.
> 
> Overall, I'd say your buddy should do the world a favor and just throw those away.


You must see his face when he got the set happy like a kid with a huge lollipop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I was trying to beat around the bush in a nice way... it looks like something Jensen would make if they went out of business then started back up with a few x-cons and a kickstarter fund.


It may happen we never know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> i was going to say this earlier but imo those look like the ones that the people that drive around the parking lot during chrismass time try to sell. the ol' "we over ordered and are now trying to get rid of it" scam.


THIS







" I told him this









dang tree in a roll LOL what a coincidence. this was epic.


----------



## fomoz

Hi guys, can I join? I have a Dynaudio 2.2 setup.

DacMagic Plus, 2x Dynaudio BM 12A, 2x Dynaudio BM 14S


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Nice setup... I love near field 2CH listening setups...
> 
> Only thing I can say and I could def be wrong but unless you are putting your head right about where that pad is I think you have your speakers towed in way to much. You may have your reasons and I am no pro so not trying to dis your setup at all...
> 
> Anyways again I def like... I kind of want to go the studio monitor route myself so that I don't have to have a huge rack mount amp on my desk. So nice gear!


Thanks, missed your post before. Haven't checked the thread in a while.

I completely agree with you on them being to close together. Sadly it's my lack of desk space, but I have another much bigger desk sitting beside it currently with my tower on it. Soon enough I'm going to switch out the two desks to put some more space in between the monitors.

Everything has changed position in my room since the picture. Just procrastination as far as switching out for the bigger desk....

And I definitely love 2ch nearfield setups myself. Such great imaging and sound stage.


----------



## phillyd

I'm thinking about buying a used Promedia 4.1 or 5.1 sub for cheap to Improve the bass on my promedia. I'm also thinking about getting a better DAC. Anyone have any idea if I will be able to hear the difference between an Asus ThunderFX and a proper DAC, say a Schiit Modi on Promedia speakers?

I know that these speakers aren't allowed in the club but I figure you guys would know.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a used Promedia 4.1 or 5.1 sub for cheap to Improve the bass on my promedia. I'm also thinking about getting a better DAC. Anyone have any idea if I will be able to hear the difference between an Asus ThunderFX and a proper DAC, say a Schiit Modi on Promedia speakers?
> 
> I know that these speakers aren't allowed in the club but I figure you guys would know.


Honestly. I say save up and buy your self a small receiver. Onkyo makes some pretty nice ones for ~150. Then when the time comes, buy yourself some proper speakers. You are going to have a much nice and easier experience doing so.

If not, then yes. You should notice somewhat of a difference. A good dac should sound more open and natural.


----------



## hatrix216

Yep, I definitely recommend a DAC.

I love my FiiO E17, not to mention it's bonus portability for use with high impedance headphones.

There are so many DACs to choose from though.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

I never got a response back about my membership by the way.







Would I qualify with Swans M200 MKIII? I know the M10's do not qualify, but would the M200 MKIII's qualify?


----------



## Pidoma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> I never got a response back about my membership by the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would I qualify with Swans M200 MKIII? I know the M10's do not qualify, but would the M200 MKIII's qualify?


I don't think it has been updated in a long time


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Alright. Would my speakers even qualify though?


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> Alright. Would my speakers even qualify though?


I don't see why not. They are full range multimedia speakers. I had the M200 MKII.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> I don't see why not. They are full range multimedia speakers. I had the M200 MKII.


Cool deal thanks!


----------



## hatrix216

Changed desk and speaker position, much better now. Funny my monitors are on top of other speakers.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a used Promedia 4.1 or 5.1 sub for cheap to Improve the bass on my promedia.


I think your money is better spent going toward a standalone sub. I'm not sure how much better the 4.1/5.1 sub would be. I guess it depends on how much you're planning on spending.

Quote:


> I'm also thinking about getting a better DAC. Anyone have any idea if I will be able to hear the difference between an Asus ThunderFX and a proper DAC, say a Schiit Modi on Promedia speakers?
> 
> I know that these speakers aren't allowed in the club but I figure you guys would know.


Do you use good headphones too, or just the speakers?

I haven't heard the promedias. Honestly, I'd say no don't get a dac unless you've got money burning a hole in your pockets. A dac doesn't make a huge difference unless your sound card sucks. By that I mean really sucks. I used onboard for a long time. A good dac is better don't get me wrong, but marginally so. You won't hear worlds of difference. My advise: if it sounds worse than an ipod, get a dac.

Most decent dacs and amps today are pretty good, the biggest difference by far will be what speakers/headphones you use.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a used Promedia 4.1 or 5.1 sub for cheap to Improve the bass on my promedia.
> 
> 
> 
> I think your money is better spent going toward a standalone sub. I'm not sure how much better the 4.1/5.1 sub would be. I guess it depends on how much you're planning on spending.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also thinking about getting a better DAC. Anyone have any idea if I will be able to hear the difference between an Asus ThunderFX and a proper DAC, say a Schiit Modi on Promedia speakers?
> 
> I know that these speakers aren't allowed in the club but I figure you guys would know.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you use good headphones too, or just the speakers?
> 
> I haven't heard the promedias. Honestly, I'd say no don't get a dac unless you've got money burning a hole in your pockets. A dac doesn't make a huge difference unless your sound card sucks. By that I mean really sucks. I used onboard for a long time. A good dac is better don't get me wrong, but marginally so. You won't hear worlds of difference. My advise: if it sounds worse than an ipod, get a dac.
> 
> Most decent dacs and amps today are pretty good, the biggest difference by far will be what speakers/headphones you use.
Click to expand...

The difference is simply a more powerful amp with two 6 inch drivers in the sub (instead of 1) for the 4.1, and two 8 inch drivers in the 5.1 sub. It'll only be a $25 trade-up to the 5.1 sub.

I'll see about borrowing a DAC or something of that nature and testing out whether a better one would sound better with a new DAC. I do use headphones, but they're just Klipsch Image Ones.


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The difference is simply a more powerful amp with two 6 inch drivers in the sub (instead of 1) for the 4.1, and two 8 inch drivers in the 5.1 sub. It'll only be a $25 trade-up to the 5.1 sub.
> 
> I'll see about borrowing a DAC or something of that nature and testing out whether a better one would sound better with a new DAC. I do use headphones, but they're just Klipsch Image Ones.


That's not bad, probably worth it for the 5.1 sub.

If you can borrow a dac before you buy one that would be ideal. Let us know what you end up doing







.


----------



## phillyd

Thanks for the help


----------



## JKuhn

I just want to know a few things before I buy new speakers:

1. The speakers I'm looking at are rated at 8 ohms for the bookshelf speakers, 4 ohms for the centre, and 4-8 ohms for the towers. Will this be a problem with my receiver (at the back it says 8-16 ohms)?
2. If the impedance is a problem, will it help to simply connect the correct rating resistors to the speakers?
3. Is the 4-8 ohm rating a sign that I should avoid them? They are pretty cheap, but I can't afford to buy expensive ones. I'm currently using two second-hand Pro-linear PL5.4B bookshelf speakers but I want surround.


----------



## Firestorm252

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> I just want to know a few things before I buy new speakers:
> 
> 1. The speakers I'm looking at are rated at 8 ohms for the bookshelf speakers, 4 ohms for the centre, and 4-8 ohms for the towers. Will this be a problem with my receiver (at the back it says 8-16 ohms)?
> 2. If the impedance is a problem, will it help to simply connect the correct rating resistors to the speakers?
> 3. Is the 4-8 ohm rating a sign that I should avoid them? They are pretty cheap, but I can't afford to buy expensive ones. I'm currently using two second-hand Pro-linear PL5.4B bookshelf speakers but I want surround.


*1.*
_a)_ 8Ω Bookshelfs - fine.
_b)_ 4Ω Center - Not so fine. In a nutshell, lower impedance = more heat for the amplifier. Definite possibility of throwing thermal protection or worse-case causing lasting damage if there is no thermal protection circuit.
Do you happen to have a model for the receiver? Some list 4Ω compatibility under "dynamic power" or the like, which means you _can_ but they'd rather you not use a 4Ω speaker.
_c)_ 4-8Ω Towers - unsure, but probably fine although I'd err on the side of caution unless your receiver is rated for 6Ω or less.
The towers probably have a component that's 4Ω whereas the rest are 8Ω. Hopefully it's the tweeter and not the woofers, as there's less energy in the higher octaves than the lower so you're not likely to burn something up.
Got a specific speaker model we can look up by chance?

*2.*
You could, but it'd eat up half of the power.
I.E. stick a 4Ω resistor in series with the Center. Problem with that is, that resistor needs to be pretty hefty. Say you're running 100W into the center channel that "sees" 8Ω, well the current will be the same between both (they're in series after all) which results in half of that power hitting the resistor.
Which needs to dissipate that as heat and since we're on OCN, we know that excessive heat + electrical components =









50W are going to have to get burned off by that resistor, and even 15W wire-wounds can get pricey at low resistance levels. You could always get a dummy load or hook up the voice coil of a 4Ω dead driver, but again there's half the power going there.

*3.*
No, it just signifies the ratings of the drivers used in the design and to prevent you from unknowingly hooking up an unreasonable load on an amplifier. Heck, even the manufacturer impedance ratings can be quite misleading, but that's a different discussion.

With the lower impedance you can actually maximize the power you can feed them at the cost of an increase in Total Harmonic Distortion. Provided the amplifier you have can do it safely is another matter entirely. Like I stated earlier, some designs can while some designs simply can't.

I could go more in-depth, but I'm skimming the details for brevity's sake


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firestorm252*
> 
> *1.*
> _a)_ 8Ω Bookshelfs - fine.
> _b)_ 4Ω Center - Not so fine. In a nutshell, lower impedance = more heat for the amplifier. Definite possibility of throwing thermal protection or worse-case causing lasting damage if there is no thermal protection circuit.
> Do you happen to have a model for the receiver? Some list 4Ω compatibility under "dynamic power" or the like, which means you _can_ but they'd rather you not use a 4Ω speaker.
> _c)_ 4-8Ω Towers - unsure, but probably fine although I'd err on the side of caution unless your receiver is rated for 6Ω or less.
> The towers probably have a component that's 4Ω whereas the rest are 8Ω. Hopefully it's the tweeter and not the woofers, as there's less energy in the higher octaves than the lower so you're not likely to burn something up.
> Got a specific speaker model we can look up by chance?
> 
> *2.*
> You could, but it'd eat up half of the power.
> I.E. stick a 4Ω resistor in series with the Center. Problem with that is, that resistor needs to be pretty hefty. Say you're running 100W into the center channel that "sees" 8Ω, well the current will be the same between both (they're in series after all) which results in half of that power hitting the resistor.
> Which needs to dissipate that as heat and since we're on OCN, we know that excessive heat + electrical components =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 50W are going to have to get burned off by that resistor, and even 15W wire-wounds can get pricey at low resistance levels. You could always get a dummy load or hook up the voice coil of a 4Ω dead driver, but again there's half the power going there.
> 
> *3.*
> No, it just signifies the ratings of the drivers used in the design and to prevent you from unknowingly hooking up an unreasonable load on an amplifier. Heck, even the manufacturer impedance ratings can be quite misleading, but that's a different discussion.
> 
> With the lower impedance you can actually maximize the power you can feed them at the cost of an increase in Total Harmonic Distortion. Provided the amplifier you have can do it safely is another matter entirely. Like I stated earlier, some designs can while some designs simply can't.
> 
> I could go more in-depth, but I'm skimming the details for brevity's sake


Thanks for the info. The receiver is a second-hand TEK DK-8008, but I couldn't find any info except for a few ads. I'm not sure about the model for the speakers, but I do know the brand is Dixon.
Concerning heat, I'm not sure if it will be a problem. I normally set the amp to a low level (the fan normally stays off, if it's necessary I'll turn the volume on the PC down and turn it up on the amp so the fan starts running). I also put a couple of old heat sinks on top of the receiver but I realise that won't make much of a difference.

EDIT:
The store doesn't give refunds, so if I buy them (I'll test them in-store) I can open the towers and check if there are ratings on the drivers. If I can't use them, I could still use the new bookshelfs together with the old ones and the center that I already have (the set only had one tower). But I'd prefer to keep the drivers the same where possible.


----------



## hertz9753

A few hits that I had came back to JKuhn when I did a search. Not much info for that recever.

http://www.guzzle.co.za/specials/view/183125/


----------



## FlamingBeatz

Yamaha HS80m monitor speakers
Focusrite Saffire PRO14 soundcard
Beyerdynamic DT1350 headphones
Beyerdynamic DT770Pro headphones

The placement of the speakers isn't the best but its the best I can do, I need a bigger room lol


----------



## Firestorm252

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> Thanks for the info. The receiver is a second-hand TEK DK-8008, but I couldn't find any info except for a few ads. I'm not sure about the model for the speakers, but I do know the brand is Dixon.
> Concerning heat, I'm not sure if it will be a problem. I normally set the amp to a low level (the fan normally stays off, if it's necessary I'll turn the volume on the PC down and turn it up on the amp so the fan starts running). I also put a couple of old heat sinks on top of the receiver but I realise that won't make much of a difference.
> 
> EDIT:
> The store doesn't give refunds, so if I buy them (I'll test them in-store) I can open the towers and check if there are ratings on the drivers. If I can't use them, I could still use the new bookshelfs together with the old ones and the center that I already have (the set only had one tower). But I'd prefer to keep the drivers the same where possible.


After quite a bit of digging I'm coming up empty-handed on both the TEK receiver and the DIXON speakers.
The speakers look remarkably like Pure Acoustics Supernova 8-F's (catalog link), but the PA stuff is 4Ω.
The receiver also looks like some of the older Yamaha receivers, but an impedance rating of 8-16Ω makes me think it's a budget lookalike.

In any case, I personally wouldn't run lower impedance speakers on the receiver than rated. I say this primarily if the receiver amplifier module is what I suspect: a cheap multi-channel STK amplifier module rather than discrete amplifier stages.

STK's are self-contained stereo amplifier ICs that are cheaper to implement and are "fine" if used within their specifications.
Discrete amplifier stages involve transistor, FET, and etc (topologies may vary, but that's yet another discussion) and are a bit less prone to failure on undesigned loads. (spoiler: greater impedance loads are easier; they result in just less gain, or power going to the load. lower impedance loads typically result in just extra power dissipation which gets spread out across multiple stages of amplifier components so one thing doesn't catch all the heat)
STK's are not known to be the most robust things in the audio world. Don't get me wrong, for the price, from a manufacturing standpoint, and if implemented within the datasheet specifications STK's are acceptable.

Just to be sure can you look at the receiver?
Look in through the ventilation slats and see if you can notice the following:

See the black brick with all the pins roughly in the center and attached to the heatsink? That's an STK.

If you see this:

See the multiple black chips across the heatsink? That's a good sign it's discrete.

Just to be clear, I'm not saying "If it's discrete, attach whatever"

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlamingBeatz*
> 
> Yamaha HS80m monitor speakers
> Focusrite Saffire PRO14 soundcard
> Beyerdynamic DT1350 headphones
> Beyerdynamic DT770Pro headphones
> 
> The placement of the speakers isn't the best but its the best I can do, I need a bigger room lol


Nice setup. I know the feeling about space haha.
My Tritrix placement was more or less dictated by what room I had available.


----------



## TANN3R

Some wicked setups! here's mine to be added to the club








1 pair B&W 683's 

Sunfire HRS 12' Sub 

Marantz SR5007 7.2 Channel Receiver 


I have a pair of B&W MM-1 Speakers for my computer but I don't think those count.
Love seeing all the awesome equipment


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firestorm252*
> 
> After quite a bit of digging I'm coming up empty-handed on both the TEK receiver and the DIXON speakers.
> The speakers look remarkably like Pure Acoustics Supernova 8-F's (catalog link), but the PA stuff is 4Ω.
> The receiver also looks like some of the older Yamaha receivers, but an impedance rating of 8-16Ω makes me think it's a budget lookalike.
> 
> In any case, I personally wouldn't run lower impedance speakers on the receiver than rated. I say this primarily if the receiver amplifier module is what I suspect: a cheap multi-channel STK amplifier module rather than discrete amplifier stages.
> 
> STK's are self-contained stereo amplifier ICs that are cheaper to implement and are "fine" if used within their specifications.
> Discrete amplifier stages involve transistor, FET, and etc (topologies may vary, but that's yet another discussion) and are a bit less prone to failure on undesigned loads. (spoiler: greater impedance loads are easier; they result in just less gain, or power going to the load. lower impedance loads typically result in just extra power dissipation which gets spread out across multiple stages of amplifier components so one thing doesn't catch all the heat)
> STK's are not known to be the most robust things in the audio world. Don't get me wrong, for the price, from a manufacturing standpoint, and if implemented within the datasheet specifications STK's are acceptable.
> 
> Just to be sure can you look at the receiver?
> Look in through the ventilation slats and see if you can notice the following:
> 
> See the black brick with all the pins roughly in the center and attached to the heatsink? That's an STK.
> 
> If you see this:
> 
> See the multiple black chips across the heatsink? That's a good sign it's discrete.


This is what I saw (sorry for the poor quality picture, it wasn't easy to take pictures through the vents):



So this means it's discrete?

The speakers I wanted were already sold when I got there, so I bought these (Dixon CT265, 4-8 ohms):


I assume it should be OK if I don't turn the volume very high? I checked the drivers, there aren't any ratings on them but I can save and buy better drivers after a while.

Also, does the presence of relays (I know they click when I turn the volume on/off) indicate the presence of a protection circuit?


----------



## Firestorm252

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> This is what I saw (sorry for the poor quality picture, it wasn't easy to take pictures through the vents):
> 
> 
> 
> So this means it's discrete?
> 
> The speakers I wanted were already sold when I got there, so I bought these (Dixon CT265, 4-8 ohms):
> 
> 
> I assume it should be OK if I don't turn the volume very high? I checked the drivers, there aren't any ratings on them but I can save and buy better drivers after a while.
> 
> Also, does the presence of relays (I know they click when I turn the volume on/off) indicate the presence of a protection circuit?


Ah that does help.
That suggests it's discrete, which is odd considering the 8-16Ω stipulation. From my experience, most reasonably designed discrete amps can deal with a 6Ω load and are rated accordingly.
whatever I guess








I don't know where the TEK stacks up (HTIB, budget fare, entry level, or etc), but maybe the lower levels of HT recievers (read: <$1000 USD) have gotten much better over the years while I wasn't paying attention.

The relays are probably in the source selection. Protection circuits aren't usually relays unless you're dealing with really high power switching, and often the simplest are some polyfuses or bimetal strips in series with heat sensitive areas that reset after they've cooled down.

But, without having any manuals or datasheets for the speakers or receiver I'm hesitant to give a suggested course of action.
I don't want to give any guidance that could feasibly burn out something while operating outside of a certain comfort zone.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firestorm252*
> 
> Ah that does help.
> That suggests it's discrete, which is odd considering the 8-16Ω stipulation. From my experience, most reasonably designed discrete amps can deal with a 6Ω load and are rated accordingly.
> whatever I guess
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know where the TEK stacks up (HTIB, budget fare, entry level, or etc), but maybe the lower levels of HT recievers (read: <$1000 USD) have gotten much better over the years while I wasn't paying attention.
> 
> The relays are probably in the source selection. Protection circuits aren't usually relays unless you're dealing with really high power switching, and often the simplest are some polyfuses or bimetal strips in series with heat sensitive areas that reset after they've cooled down.
> 
> But, without having any manuals or datasheets for the speakers or receiver I'm hesitant to give a suggested course of action.
> I don't want to give any guidance that could feasibly burn out something while operating outside of a certain comfort zone.


Thanks for the help. This receiver is probably one of the cheapest ones you can get with component systems. I bought it second-hand for R500 (somewhere between $50 and $55) to give you an idea of how cheap it is. And even new as a complete set it was going for as little as R3500 (roughly $406 in December).


----------



## drjoey1500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> Thanks for the help. This receiver is probably one of the cheapest ones you can get with component systems. I bought it second-hand for R500 (somewhere between $50 and $55) to give you an idea of how cheap it is. And even new as a complete set it was going for as little as R3500 (roughly $406 in December).


It's up to you then, if you're willing to risk having to replace it. I want to say it's fine if you're not listening really loud, but I also don't want you to come back and blame me if something goes wrong







.

I had cheap stereo amps rated for 8 ohms that I would plug 4 ohm speakers into. Worked fine, although I didn't use them that much. I guess if you do decide to use it, you should feel the heatsink every once in a while and make sure it's not getting too hot.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drjoey1500*
> 
> It's up to you then, if you're willing to risk having to replace it. I want to say it's fine if you're not listening really loud, but I also don't want you to come back and blame me if something goes wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I had cheap stereo amps rated for 8 ohms that I would plug 4 ohm speakers into. Worked fine, although I didn't use them that much. I guess if you do decide to use it, you should feel the heatsink every once in a while and make sure it's not getting too hot.


OK. I'll burn it on purpose and blame you.







I do regularly feel the top of the receiver and I turn the volume on it up (and down on the PC) to turn the active cooling on for a few seconds when it starts to get warm. It doesn't happen a lot though and I'm planning to install a quieter fan and wire it to run continuously.


----------



## Antuna

No Logitech? I think the z506 and similar fit the bill


----------



## Cosmix48

I'm in a bit of a situation. I am in need of a black; mid-range 2.1 speaker setup (1 subwoofer and 2 speakers) Can anyone recommend something to me? Also if an amp is necessary what would be a good one?


----------



## phillyd

Price range?


----------



## Cosmix48

Like $200 - $250 or even more if really necessary. I'm brand new to the whole speaker setup business, I've build computers in the past and have used headphones for everything so I really have no idea for speakers, subs or amps.


----------



## Firestorm252

just a few extra Q's if you don't mind Cosmix:
Listening distance near- or far-field? (near-field: <3 to ~6 feet)
Listening room dimensions? (because I've found a small, corner-loaded sub is often enough for small rooms)

A musical "bargain basement" options that won't sound _terrible_ would be:
$40 - Dayton B652 bookshelf
$89 - Dayton SUB-800
$XXX - Pick any: Topping Amp or a DTA-100a or a cheaper Audiosource amp
I've used a few Toppings (mainly for dorm room audiophiles or those wanting 4Ω support), own a DTA, and setup a "personal bar" system using the bigger Audiosource and found they're all good. So pick your poison depending on your needs for power, connectivity, DAC need, etc. Although if you have a receiver handy you could just power it off that.

I will stress "won't sound terrible" though. Especially if you've dabbled in some of the higher end headphones available.
Consider that the better chunk of that budget is going to good amplification and a sub, so expect the bookshelves to be adequate but lacking.
I've personally found good floor-standing speakers to be adequate without a sub, but that depends on taste. My Polk 55Ts attached to my living room TV are fine for most things I need, although a sub is pending once I find how tolerant my apartment's neighbors are.

Note: Some people rave about this Lepai LP-2020A amp, but I've never used it myself. Although I suppose if you keep your expectations at the proper budget and use it for near-field, it would likely be more than sufficient and would cut the expenses down enough for better mains.


Spoiler: I use



I've personally been using a set of sealed Tritrix (came in a kit, I provided box) and a Dayton Classic 8" sub (again I built the box), powered off a DTA-100a and Dayton SA100 respectively.
The cost came to around $140 for the Tritrix kit, $50 for the sub driver, $100 for the DTA-100a, and $100 for the SA100.

The clarity's not as nice as my assorted headphones available, but the arrangement does well for when I'm mulling about the area rather than tied down to the desk.

TV Setup
Denon AVR-E400
LR Polk 55T
More speakers pending time to actually build some haha.





Spoiler: If I were to make a small budget stereo setup



Opt for some Overnight Sensation MTMs (kits available here and here). ~$90
Probably a Dayton Reference 8" (HF or HO depending on design constraint). ~$110
Pick your choice of amplification. I'd probably just run off a receiver and strap an SA250 or a Bash 300W plate amp for the sub. $XXX



edit

I'd bet there's also good studio monitor options that would come in budget, but I can't make a good suggestion for those. so someone else will need to chime in.

edit2

and for what it's worth. It may be a better choice to go with the bigger 10" or 12" Dayton powered subs. Competing ones are also worth looking into, but I typically build my stuff so I can't properly say.


----------



## Cosmix48

I sit at a desk in the corner of the room most of the time so in response to your first question, "near". And the room that I'm in isn't terribly large, but I'd say it's a nicely sized room comparatively . I'll look into your suggestions and I'll try to make some sort of decision, but once again I really have no idea when it comes to speakers. 
PS: I probably need to replace my wallpaper...


----------



## Cotton

I would like to join.









(2) KRK Rokit 5 G2
(2) KRK Rokit 8 G2
(1) KRK Rokit 10S






Ignore the cable management for now. This is a work in progress.

Thank you,

-Cotton


----------



## phillyd

My God those are beautiful.


----------



## FlamingBeatz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cotton*
> 
> I would like to join.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (2) KRK Rokit 5 G2
> (2) KRK Rokit 8 G2
> (1) KRK Rokit 10S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the cable management for now. This is a work in progress.
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> -Cotton






Why 2 sets of speakers though? Wouldnt the sub + RP5's or RP8's by itsself would be enough. Just wondering.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlamingBeatz*
> 
> 
> Why 2 sets of speakers though? Wouldnt the sub + RP5's or RP8's by itsself would be enough. Just wondering.


Because he doesn't know about phase?


----------



## fomoz

And why only one sub?


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

The god speaker.



Attainable dream speakers.



my next speakers.



My speakers.


----------



## Qbex

@ first pic above :


what is this thing ?


----------



## bobfig

http://www.audioanthology.com/audio2.htm


----------



## FlamingBeatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fomoz*
> 
> And why only one sub?


Sub bass is always mono


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbex*
> 
> @ first pic above :
> 
> 
> what is this thing ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> http://www.audioanthology.com/audio2.htm


To be honest, it actually IS the mother of god.

It is referred to the grandmother of all horn based speakers.

It is pretty much perfect. It really sounds like the band is in the room.


----------



## fomoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlamingBeatz*
> 
> Sub bass is always mono


More subs is still better.

http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=43669


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fomoz*
> 
> More subs is still better.
> 
> http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=43669


No.....no it is not.

Quite frankly, almost all sub woofers suck and don't integrate into the speakers all that well. Get speakers with great bass already designed into them. Don't add bass like a noob.


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> No.....no it is not.
> 
> Quite frankly, almost all sub woofers suck and don't integrate into the speakers all that well. Get speakers with great bass already designed into them. Don't add bass like a noob.


lol


----------



## kevindd992002

Wrong thread, sorry.


----------



## FlamingBeatz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fomoz*
> 
> More subs is still better.
> 
> http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=43669


That might apply to larger rooms to get a more even energy spread across the whole room. In a room like this it only creates more standing waves and other pahse problems.


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> No.....no it is not.
> 
> Quite frankly, almost all sub woofers suck and don't integrate into the speakers all that well. Get speakers with great bass already designed into them. Don't add bass like a noob.


Don't agree with this post at all.

There are many many great subwoofers that do all sorts of things from causing earthquakes(sub bass) to punching your mom in the face (punchy bass). It's great to have mutliple subwoofers, but that's a very costly endeavor if you want to do it right. TBH It's more cost effective to get one quality subwoofer rather than 2 crap quality subwoofers. Subwoofer technology is getting better and in recent years you can even find good ones for 300-400..but if you really want the good stuff 800+ gets you the subwoofers that'll change your life (cheaper can be had ofc and I think $500 is that point where you really step into big league subwoofers).

So..it's all about the receiver you have...where you set each subwoofer to to perform (one subwoofer for 15-30hz. The other for 31-60hz and your speakers for 60+ hz.) You don't want to overload one speaker if you listen to complex bass notes. Ofc a subwoofer of good quality can handle almost all of it, but if you have the funds adding more subwoofers definitely helps.Cuts down on the complexity of the tunes it has to drill out...that's why having multiple drivers in a tower is great. High freq. tweeters, mid drivers and bass drivers.


----------



## givmedew

I can't stand when people say subwoofers suck or that good speakers can make great bass...

I have GREAT!!! speakers and they are hooked up to an amp that has a capacitor bigger than an oil filter for each channel. They are well known for having tons of bass. I have my subwoofer tuned very well and for the most part you can not tell it is there. It is using speaker level inputs (the way god intended and god is REL) and a separate LFE signal so that the 2 can be tuned independently from each other.

For most music if you turn the sub off... you will barely notice a difference (I said barely)... but say put on Metallica's Don't Tread On Me which has a huge gigantic bass drum like what they use in a symphony and the bass will affect your breathing.

Don't tell me your speakers can do that and don't tell me you are willing to waste all the amplifier energy needed to try to get tiny little speakers to create frequencies that do exist in music to the level that they should be at.

NUF said...

For all the dumb dumbs that really feel like that I used to have a nice little trick for them. I would have a rel subwoofer plugged with a pair of sonus faber grand pianos and tell the person this is without a sub and let them select from a set of songs that I had picked out. Before the demo was even over they would say something silly like... enough said and then I would restart the track and unplug the subwoofer... See I wasn't lying to them because REL does not want the strata III to be called a subwoofer... it is a sub bass system.

NUF SAID... sold a many many rel strata III that way and a few martin logan depths/descents the same way. Actually that Metallica track can be appreciated by anyone when listening to it on a depth/descent


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> I can't stand when people say subwoofers suck or that good speakers can make great bass...
> 
> I have GREAT!!! speakers and they are hooked up to an amp that has a capacitor bigger than an oil filter for each channel. They are well known for having tons of bass. I have my subwoofer tuned very well and for the most part you can not tell it is there. It is using speaker level inputs (the way god intended and god is REL) and a separate LFE signal so that the 2 can be tuned independently from each other.
> 
> For most music if you turn the sub off... you will barely notice a difference (I said barely)... but say put on Metallica's Don't Tread On Me which has a huge gigantic bass drum like what they use in a symphony and the bass will affect your breathing.
> 
> Don't tell me your speakers can do that and don't tell me you are willing to waste all the amplifier energy needed to try to get tiny little speakers to create frequencies that do exist in music to the level that they should be at.
> 
> NUF said...
> 
> For all the dumb dumbs that really feel like that I used to have a nice little trick for them. I would have a rel subwoofer plugged with a pair of sonus faber grand pianos and tell the person this is without a sub and let them select from a set of songs that I had picked out. Before the demo was even over they would say something silly like... enough said and then I would restart the track and unplug the subwoofer... See I wasn't lying to them because REL does not want the strata III to be called a subwoofer... it is a sub bass system.
> 
> NUF SAID... sold a many many rel strata III that way and a few martin logan depths/descents the same way. Actually that Metallica track can be appreciated by anyone when listening to it on a depth/descent


Who said vienna acoustic was good?

Try dynaco A35s. They are essentially two book shelf speakers strapped to two subwoofers, but they are properly tuned to give you better imaging.

Anything from magnepan.

Some the the vintage klipisch horns.

There are lots of options. If you tuned your sub correctly, then bravo, but more often than not, a extra sub can really screw up imaging.


----------



## givmedew

Wow... what you just said is laughable very. You most def discredited yourself from name dropping magnepan. No doubt magnepan are nice my wife has talked me into having a pair custom finished with red cloth but that they make large amount of low frequency bass is just well funny.

I personally would not typically go as far as trash talking a decent speaker brand as the choice of speaker is up to the user. I have a hard time understanding how you can say magnepan is better than vienna acoustics... I wasn't saying that vienna acoustics was the best speaker in the world but even if you figure in that the magnepan speakers cost only a fraction of what the vienna acoustics speakers cost I just don't see how you can say one is better than the other.

Also magnepan will need a much larger amplifier I'm guessing around 5-10x the power to achieve the same volume maybe much more and compared to klipsch much much more maybe 100x. So that either means some huge gigantic amplifier or higher distortion.

So again... why did you name drop that brand? Also dynaco a35... you a really think those have as much bass as a floor decent floor standing speaker? I doubt they have noticeably more bass than my computer speakers which are bookshelf vienna's that for some reason it seems you regard as garbage.

I think that you may be pretentious. I am guessing conversations go quite like this with your peers even when talking about things unrelated to audio.

The reason I say that is it seems that this is the style of talking you usually take against people who say the opposite of what you believe.

Also please don't try to redeem yourself by saying you meant some magnepan model that stands umpteen million feet tall and is several car lengths wide because lets be serious I think taller than me and much wider is already big enough and even though they are quite a bargin price wise I think the only reason I like them is because my wife likes them. A subwoofer will not be optional with those speakers.


----------



## phillyd

A subwoofer allows for better clarity out of the rest of the speakers because even some of the best speakers have trouble producing mids while also doing lots of base. It's actually really simple when it comes to understanding how speakers work. I do understand that a separate sub can mess with imaging. It is very important to tune it well, but when you're that much of an audiophile it isn't that hard to do. If you're a "noob", though, the imaging issues won't really even affect you.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Lets take a second look at some things.

Vienna Acoustics is OK in the mids and the highs, but the bass is just......weak (IDK if that is the right word)? It has bass, but it is not punchy or as rich as some other speakers in the same price point. At 3500 I have heard some horn based systems that crush Vienna acoustics. I actually recently heard some floor standing speakers, and the person who put them on display said they were synthesis speakers. Of course when I go to the synthesis website, there are no synthesis speakers. Sooooo I have no idea what they are otherwise I would have linked them too, and again according to the guy who owned them, they were 2700 a pair.

Magnepan does not have oodles of bass, but the bass that it does have is deep enough to not need a sub woofer, plus it is a much more accurate bass that is much more detailed. The Vienna speakers have more of a flat bass in the lows, but then in the mid bass they project a bit better.

Clearly I think we have had two different experiences with magnepan, and I am talking about the simple 1.7s. I am not going to pull a crap move and say the 20.7s. Here is a list of my experience.

I recently heard them with a nice C&J premiere 11 amp with some nice NOS tubes. The manager threw on Abbey Road on the record player and the first song was come together. It had superbly detailed, deep, warm, visceral and lush bass. It projected extremely well, and kept a nice sound stage with great imaging.

I heard it again at the audio fest with a 300b push pull amp from border patrol. They used bass traps. I am not sure how I feel about using bass traps, but it seemed to work pretty well. I did not get to hear any bassy tracks, but the mids were improved.

And just today I went to a local store to hear them again. Not that great of an amp, and the bass suffered a little bit, but it was still pretty good.

I have heard the Mozart Grand twice, both times in the same store. They were in two different rooms with two different amps. 1 amp sucked. Just flat out sucked. I don't even count that.

The other was with a pretty kick butt synthesis amp ( the synthesis is actually a better sounding amp than the C&J amp, so do not try and argue that the Vienna speakers had a disadvantage). The bass was ok, but it seems very confined and flat. It did not project all that well. I simply was not impressed with it, and I believe that someone who wanted bass would probably be forced to go out and get a sub woofer. You say otherwise, so IDK what to tell you other than I personally thought the magnepans were better *shrug*.

As for Dynaco A35s..............yes...the answer is yes. You have either never heard them, or you have never heard them with a proper amp. Even the A25s have pretty face ripping bass. Unless you have computer speakers that were hand delivered by the gods, you have no clue what these speakers are like. I highly encourage you to find some A25 speakers for cheap and test them out. They are pretty hard to drive, but if you love that metalica song and you have a place for these speakers.....I think you will be highly surprised.

Another speaker that is a bit more rare, but still fairly cheap is the snell J III. At stock, they still have some incredible bass. You can mod these to be more like the audio note speakers and get some really awesome bass.

Floor standing speakers (and I think you know this), are not the end all and be all of bass for dynamic speakers (ignoring stupid and crazy designs). Sure there are some great floor standing speakers, but floor standing speakers are not just automatically better than any other type of dynamic based speakers. Heck, there are several book shelf speakers that destroy floor standing speakers.

I just spent this past weekend at the capitol audio fest going from room to room listening to a whole mess of floor standing speakers...... You would have been very surprised at some of the 20K floor standing speakers they had. Some crappy little book shelf speakers sounded miles better, and I am not even kidding you.

Say what you want about the way I talk, and my credibility, but I go to audio shows quite often. I am not saying you should outright believe in what I say, but when I recommend a speaker, that has good bass, do you think I pull it out of my hat? Do you think I am trolling you? If I did not have a valid reason to say what I said, then it would be a massive waste of my time and effort don't you agree?

I am not trying to sit here and tell you your system is crap. It is actually quite good compared to some systems *cough cough* monitor audio *cough cough*. But to sit there and base your notion of sub woofers of off your system when there ARE bassier systems for the same money as JUST your right and left channel seems odd to me. Maybe I am misinterpreting what you are trying to say?

To reiterate my point while reflecting on my real experience, I will hopefully to regain some of that credibility that I "lost".

I have spent thousands of dollars trying to screw around with getting the perfect sub woofer, I have been to many speaker shows with very high end sub woofers, and I too have been trying to chase the dream of perfect bass. The only time sub woofers work well is when they are in a system as a whole. Like this.



I actually heard this very speaker just the other day (actually we heard both but what ever). The bass again was slightly boomy, but at least the imaging was better than this crap. (I am 99.9999% this is what we heard from the monitor audio booth, but the color is different, and the tweeter seems different. It might be the same model and I did not notice the tweeter design all that well)



The best integrated outboard sub woofer I have heard was by a custom company called miracle audio. They had a REALLY bizarre design, but it worked pretty darn well. http://www.miracleaudio.com/html/speakers.html

To me and many others every other dynamic based outboard sub woofer I have heard and or built has ruined the image and sound staging of the song.

One last thing (I could not find a way to add this in without sounding like a ...you know what, so I apologize) You can add a sub woofer to your magnepans. Magnepan makes a sub panel. http://www.magnepan.com/DWM_and_DW_1_Woofers


----------



## gorb

there are lots of good speaker companies out there

there are lots of good subwoofer companies out there

there are lots of good companies that produce both and more

the end


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Lets take a second look at some things.
> 
> One last thing (I could not find a way to add this in without sounding like a ...you know what, so I apologize) You can add a sub woofer to your magnepans. Magnepan makes a sub panel. http://www.magnepan.com/DWM_and_DW_1_Woofers


I didn't bother reading the whole thing because like I said I have read your other posts and it is just silly to go around trashing people for understanding that subwoofers make sense. I think you must understand that but again like I said before you are pretentious. You want to sound like you are above other people and that you know more than you really know.

I am not going off of your most recent posts when I make that statement I am going off of many of the posts I have read when you reply to someone else's opinion in a very non scientific matter of fact way. There have been people that have completely decimated your claims with pure and simple logic and science and you either move on or try to speak the opposite.

I am not going to try as hard as those people to argue with you... and I am not even going to bother to read your entire post because you don't deserve and you have trashed talked my "lack of experience" before.

The bottom line is this!

You noted Magnepan as one of your reasons that you don't need a subwoofer... you noted them as being great at bass and you can not say you meant the bass panel no you meant the brand and the speakers they offer. You are so full of it and now you know that. You should be able to read your comment about the magnepans and then read this comment I just quoted and realize that you contradicted yourself.

If I contradict myself it is not such a big deal because I don't pretend to be as authoritative as you do even though honestly I probably have a much wider and much more robust experience with what I would consider the entry level to high end. You know the systems that only cost $10k-60k. No doubt I have very little to no knowledge of $100k+ systems aside from the no longer offered $100K martin logan pair of speakers that came with a sub array!!! Oh wait even they think they need subs!

Magnepans are not good at delivering bass at all. The fact you have to say oh but look they offer this bass panel. Is enough to show you are dead wrong.

Talking people who don't believe in subwoofers to believe in them if you show them a very tight well designed system that can be truly transparent is easy. Talking people who believe in subwoofers because the sense of it into thinking they have no use is just silly.

Also the majority of the people on this forum are not running elite audio systems so have a sub to back up a speaker that can't quite deliver makes a whole lot of sense. I have auditioned so many speakers many that I could never afford (without getting them for next to free) all of them with $1000-3000 2CH separate amplifiers. I know that is nothing compared to your experience the immeasurable amount of hours listening to 2CH set ups that I have done pales in comparison to whatever it is that you think qualifies you to just come on to this forum and BASH other peoples ideas and gear. It is bashing that you are doing by the way. I have explained why you do it... I'm sure I am not the first person to tell you that you act like that.

Anyways... solution for me is simple... it's called ignore.

You bash talk me or anyone else again I will just ignore you and I won't have to read it anymore. For me problem solved... for the others that you talk to like this well I can't do anything about that.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

What ever man, I guess all it means is that you found the perfect system for yourself and I hope you really enjoy it.

I am not going to argue with a brick wall no matter how much I disagree.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> What ever man, I guess all it means is that you found the perfect system for yourself and I hope you really enjoy it.
> 
> I am not going to argue with a brick wall no matter how much I disagree.


Oh yeh I get it you disagree to sound like you know something amazing that just nobody else understands. It is truly above us you must truly be an angel. Your must have graduated from the best audio engineering school in the heaven and where sent hear to school all us lowly humans on how we should not be able to enjoy music the way we want and that your huge horns, tube amps, and whatever else is the absolute only way god intended us to hear. Forget that a drum exists in a orchestra that makes a frequency so low you had have to be smoking refer to think a normal speaker could produce it with the same power and presence.

Forget all that because bass and subwoofers or at least bass created by subwoofers are for idiots.

I get it you have spoke and we should all take your word as gospel.

Do you think it weird that the majority of what you preach is just the opposite of what most believe or prefer. Do you understand that you may be choosing those very positions to simply challenge others and make yourself feel special and important. I don't think most people know what they are talking about and it is obvious that you actually do know what you are talking about (in a way) but don't you find it odd that what you say has to fly in the face of others and that you choose the most niche products and opinions as if they where amazing just because they are what people choose least?

Just wondering what drives you... Because it isn't honesty with yourself.


----------



## phillyd

@Tjj Seriously dude, stop condescending.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Oh yeh I get it you disagree to sound like you know something amazing that just nobody else understands. It is truly above us you must truly be an angel. Your must have graduated from the best audio engineering school in the heaven and where sent hear to school all us lowly humans on how we should not be able to enjoy music the way we want and that your huge horns, tube amps, and whatever else is the absolute only way god intended us to hear. Forget that a drum exists in a orchestra that makes a frequency so low you had have to be smoking refer to think a normal speaker could produce it with the same power and presence.
> 
> Forget all that because bass and subwoofers or at least bass created by subwoofers are for idiots.
> 
> I get it you have spoke and we should all take your word as gospel.
> 
> Do you think it weird that the majority of what you preach is just the opposite of what most believe or prefer. Do you understand that you may be choosing those very positions to simply challenge others and make yourself feel special and important. I don't think most people know what they are talking about and it is obvious that you actually do know what you are talking about (in a way) but don't you find it odd that what you say has to fly in the face of others and that you choose the most niche products and opinions as if they where amazing just because they are what people choose least?
> 
> Just wondering what drives you... Because it isn't honesty with yourself.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> @Tjj Seriously dude, stop condescending.


When a guy says he is not going to bother listening to me at all, AND that I have no credibility...how exactly am I supposed to respond to you? Once someone shuts down, there is literally nothing I can do or say to change that.....sooo when I say there is no point in arguing with you, I really mean that there is literally no point in arguing with you.

Let me make this clear. Either I keep arguing with you, and I look like a jerk for doing so, or I don't respond to you at all, and I look like a coward who turned tail and ran.

Even saying this, I am probably going to look like one of those preachy people who try to diffuse the situation which again is not the case.

So I am currently in a 100% screwed if I do say something and screwed if I don't say something situations.

I do not know what is condescending or otherwise about trying to drop the topic before a mod gets involved in this affair. I promise you that was the only point of my last comment. I was greatly disheartened when I wrote that comment which is probably why I sounded like an arse, but other then that, I know that the mods are a touchy group of people who I am trying NOT to poke with a stick.

You can still disagree with me, think/call me stupid, rude, and obnoxious, or otherwise. That is just the way things go online. However, I will be darned if I am going to get banned or flagged for trying to respond back to you.

Is that fair?


----------



## phillyd

We expect you to stop acting like a know-it-all. This thread and the headphone thread is constantly spammed by you contradicting others.


----------



## Simca

Disagreement is K, just keep the hostility down.









All of you!


----------



## phillyd

I was thinking about buying a pair of RB-41 II speakers and a KW-100 sub as It would cost me just $130. How much would it cost me to get a receiver or whatever it is I need to power and source these speakers?


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I was thinking about buying a pair of RB-41 II speakers and a KW-100 sub as It would cost me just $130. How much would it cost me to get a receiver or whatever it is I need to power and source these speakers?


It's $90 for a DTA-100a.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> It's $90 for a DTA-100a.


Do you know of a T-amp that has a sub output?


----------



## R4V3N

I finally have my main room sorted enough to take pictures. I also have hi-fi equipment on my main rig, but it's not pretty right now.


All stereo sources go through the NAD receiver, and all video sources (VCR, Wii, PS3, cable, BD, N64, Genesis, and HTPC\file server) can go through either the BD surround or the NAD/Mission combo.
Music ALWAYS goes through the NAD


----------



## Tiihokatti

Here is my Redfenix audio setup.
Behringer B3031A speakers with Xonar D1 soundcard.

My TV looks a bit sad when you compare the size to the speakers...


----------



## phillyd

Yeah I'd need sub output. I could split each channel and send wires to the L/R speaker inputs on the sub, though.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Yeah I'd need sub output. I could split each channel and send wires to the L/R speaker inputs on the sub, though.


If just 2CH I would go with the high level inputs on the KW-100.


----------



## phillyd

Yeah that would work. $330 for a brand new amp/passive bookshelf speakers/powered sub setup? sounds like a deal.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Yeah that would work. $330 for a brand new amp/passive bookshelf speakers/powered sub setup? sounds like a deal.


Is this for near field listening?

I don't know much about that DA amp but I bought the original Sonic T-Amp back in 06 or 07 and it was absolutely great for near field listening. The bass was a bit lacking but after some heavy modification that issue was completely solved. I don't have a clue what chip is in that DA one but it is obviously a much higher output chip than the one that I have. So you probably won't encounter the bass problems that I did. I also had some lower sensitivity speakers and that can be a big issue but they where 4ohms at least.

I don't see any reason why you wouldn't like that set up and that amp would def provide you with better sound than a $100-200 stereo receiver would provide and probably even better than ones much more expensive then that.


----------



## phillyd

Near-field listening meaning close-by? Yes, mostly less than 6 feet, but I do like to crank the volume and roam the general area.


----------



## davcc22

can i join yeah shur i have shtty usb speekers but...... i have mopdded a sony SA-w10 super woffa to work on a PC using a 3.5mm to coxtal adapter
 from when i had a crapp case some genric thing


----------



## phillyd

Watch the language and grammar and they might let you in


----------



## DuckKnuckle

Permission to join this wonderful club? Phone pics and desk was changed while taking the shots.

Monitors - Alesis M1 Active MK2
Souncard - Roland UA-55 Quad Capture


----------



## Sempre

with all this talk about subwoofers and arguments whether you have to pay $500+ to get real bass or whether subwoofers in general have no impact, im starting to hesitate in the idea of getting a pair of $80 bookshelf speakers and and a ~ $100-200 subwoffer.
I was originally planning on getting a pair of Infinity Primus p163 and a polk audio psw10 sub and now im thinking of just getting a pair of budget active speakers.
What do you guys think ?


----------



## phillyd

If you're a basshead and/or listen to music with lots of bass, like explosions in games and movies to have a kick or boom, then get the cheaper speakers and a separate sub. If you want general fidelity and you aren't a real basshead and you don't require the thumping bass then get the active speaker.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> If just 2CH I would go with the high level inputs on the KW-100.


Yup. Which is why I recommended the DTA-100a. You just have an extra set of speaker wires running from the amp to the sub. There are cheap receivers too, but if you go to a pawn shop you may be able to get a quality receiver for a cheap price. I've found older Pioneer Elite units on my local Craigslist for about $100.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Do you know of a T-amp that has a sub output?


There's a few out there, but they aren't cheap. The cheapest is Orb Audio's mini T-amp at $69, but the bad thing is that it's only 15w per channel. Not exactly the most powerful, but depending on the sensitivity it's more than enough. My amp has a sub out, but it's discontinued now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sempre*
> 
> with all this talk about subwoofers and arguments whether you have to pay $500+ to get real bass or whether subwoofers in general have no impact, im starting to hesitate in the idea of getting a pair of $80 bookshelf speakers and and a ~ $100-200 subwoffer.
> I was originally planning on getting a pair of Infinity Primus p163 and a polk audio psw10 sub and now im thinking of just getting a pair of budget active speakers.
> What do you guys think ?


The Primus P163 are a great set, but the sub is junk. Go with something else. Like Dayton's offerings around the same price as the PSW10, but much better.


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tiihokatti*
> 
> Here is my Redfenix audio setup.
> Behringer B3031A speakers with Xonar D1 soundcard.
> 
> My TV looks a bit sad when you compare the size to the speakers...


Looks good, but the stand the TV is on should be more modern/black.

Space issues.

Look for a used NAD stereo amplifier with a sub output.


----------



## Tiihokatti

Yeah, the TV-stand is ancient (almost like a family heirloom lol). And actually it got hit by a lightning few decades ago (TV exploded or sumthing), painted the whole thing white and it's as good as new.

Don't really see why I would get a subwoofer. Or rather, the subwoofer would force me to drop the general sound volumes as any overpowering bass would be heard by the neighbours. This way I can play as loud as I want and the bass is more than enough for me (the bass is fine, even when compared to dt-770 pro)


----------



## Simca

If anyone is smarter than me when it comes to Denon Receivers, HDMI, Windows 8.1 or whatever..then please give my post on AVS a look and answer it for me..or you can post here for the solution as well, I don't particularly care where so long as I can fix this aggravating problem. I'm looking to swap out my Infinitys for B&W685's but can't when it won't work!! So the sooner I can fix this annoying problem that faster I can swap for better speakers.

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1484447/denon-avr-1912-to-pc-via-hdmi-no-sound


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> If anyone is smarter than me when it comes to Denon Receivers, HDMI, Windows 8.1 or whatever..then please give my post on AVS a look and answer it for me..or you can post here for the solution as well, I don't particularly care where so long as I can fix this aggravating problem. I'm looking to swap out my Infinitys for B&W685's but can't when it won't work!! So the sooner I can fix this annoying problem that faster I can swap for better speakers.
> 
> http://www.avsforum.com/t/1484447/denon-avr-1912-to-pc-via-hdmi-no-sound


So when did this start to happen? After a driver update or when you upgraded to Windows 8.1?


----------



## Sempre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> If you're a basshead and/or listen to music with lots of bass, like explosions in games and movies to have a kick or boom, then get the cheaper speakers and a separate sub. If you want general fidelity and you aren't a real basshead and you don't require the thumping bass then get the active speaker.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> The Primus P163 are a great set, but the sub is junk. Go with something else. Like Dayton's offerings around the same price as the PSW10, but much better.


Thanks.
I would prefer some bass especially in movies where there's a lot of action going on.
What about this sub : http://www.amazon.com/BIC-America-F12-475-Watt-Subwoofer/dp/B0015A8Y5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375565535&sr=8-1&keywords=BIC+America+F12 ?


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> So when did this start to happen? After a driver update or when you upgraded to Windows 8.1?


Wish I could answer that with 100% conviction, but I can't say for sure. It was at some point after I got my HE-500s back. I had listened to just headphones for a while and when I tried to switch back to speakers, didn't let me. I mean no sound played from the speakers. I've tried everything I can think of including getting new drivers from NVIDIA and corresponding 8.1 drivers..nothing. It works with Pandora on the receiver so I know it's nothing wrong with the speakers and potentially the AVR unless "BD" mode is not working or the HDMI cable is faulty, but I think I've tried other cables as well with no different results...the HDMI cable displays my monitor just fine..Idk what's wrong.

Speakers were working on Windows 8. Don't think they've worked on Windows 8.1, but again, can't say for sure. Don't remember. They may have even stopped working before switching to 8.1 now that I think about it.


----------



## aksthem1

I have a feeling it's a decoding issue with it then. My friend's Denon receiver did the same. He gave up and just went with toslink. He said he got it working eventually though. I'll have to ask him how he did it.

Have you tried resetting the receiver?


----------



## Simca

Not really..could try, but I'll save that as a last resort.

Thanks, aksthem1. I know you didn't directly solve the issue, but in resetting my receiver I was able to figure out that for some reason the Audio/Video was not set to HDMI in the receiver wizard set up process. I don't know how that got messed up but my speakers are working again. Thanks again.

Hearing my Infinity Primus P153s again I'm so blown away by the fact that they're $100. Completely astounding.

Will have to strongly consider whether to use the P153s for computer music usage or the B&W 685s. Could use the 685s for my TV instead.


----------



## aksthem1

Glad you got it worked out. I was thinking it was something similar, maybe it being set to video only.
I'd probably still use them for a PC setup. My local BB had them for $300 a pair on clearance. Couldn't justify the price though. I really love my KEFs.


----------



## Simca

I'm considering selling the B&W 685s and sidestepping for the IQ30s...but I want to find them for a good price..


----------



## phillyd

So I need to determine whether the Dayton Audio Sub-1000 is better than the Klipsch KW-100. The KW-100 is $220 more than the Sub-1000. Same size driver, downfiring, instead of side-firing. Lower wattage. Which one will sound better?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> So I need to determine whether the Dayton Audio Sub-1000 is better than the Klipsch KW-100. The KW-100 is $220 more than the Sub-1000. Same size driver, downfiring, instead of side-firing. Lower wattage. Which one will sound better?


Is that for pc or home audio? I run a Mirage Omni S8 sub on my pc.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> I'm considering selling the B&W 685s and sidestepping for the IQ30s...but I want to find them for a good price..


The iQ30s are fairly cheap. I've seen some on Craigslist for $200~. I bought my iQ10s for $80 at Fry's.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Is that for pc or home audio? I run a Mirage Omni S8 sub on my pc.


PC


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> The iQ30s are fairly cheap. I've seen some on Craigslist for $200~. I bought my iQ10s for $80 at Fry's.


pfffff.....won't find that in my area..The B&W 685s go for $450 here. KEFs sometimes go on sale, but haven't seen the IQ30.

Phillyd, make sure you don't waste your money on a subwoofer. My suggestion is to invest at least $300 into your subwoofer and go proper.


----------



## hatrix216

To add to all this sub talk, of course a sub isn't NECESSARY for music listening, but it's *highly highly* recommended. The right sub can blend into a good stereo setup flawlessly. In the process it adds some low end and can help take a load off of your main drivers so they can play at higher SPLs without distortion.

You aren't truly enjoying music without some bass to actually feel the kick from a bass drum and such.

There is NO reason to have your main L and R to extend all the way down to 20hz unless they have an 8" or above in them and are properly crossed over, then they just work alongside your sub. And also there's ZERO reason more than one sub is ever required. Any more than one is personal preference, especially if we are talking stereo for a home theater set up. Sub bass frequencies are omnidirectional, so it doesn't matter. More than one in the same box is of course different and for more output.

A sub can more easily take care of those low frequencies and lets be honest, will also always do it better.

I use a custom built sub + enclosure that uses an old box from a passive HT sub. Port has been replaced with a different size flared aero port cut to size and glued, displacement calculated etc so the box is at the perfect tuning for music listening. It sounds incredibly clean and adds what my Mackie MR5MKIIs lack, which is emphasizing the low end. They can play decently low themselves, but they only have 5" drivers so in no way is their bass loud like I prefer my listening.

To note, genre wise I listen to mainly electronic music and rap. Also listen to a lot of metalcore (lots of bass drops, loud bass drums) and some of everything else expect country. For this reason, I have an 18" Fi SSD in my vehicle on 1200 watts. Not everyone's style, as it will take your breath away and make your ears hurt, that is for certain.

This is a Sundown Audio E8v3, an 8" 300 watt sub. Box is tuned to 33.2 hz with its net volume at 0.76cuft. It is a LOUD sub for its size. I guarantee it's louder than most 10"s and 12"s people run. I'm used to my 18", so I know incredibly loud bass seeing as you can hear my coming from literally a mile. The 8" will shake the walls in my house easy when turned up and powered well. Still needs to be cleaned up, but it works. First pic to show, second is how it's placed for listening.





Also to add, speaker setup changed a little. I know I'm blabbing here, thought I'd share though for speaker lovers. The speakers my monitors were sitting on top of were changed out (one still needs new woofers) and replaced with some o.k. sounding floorstanding towers. Each tower has 2 10" drivers and 2 horns. They are WHITE VAN speakers bought by my step dad (doesn't know much about speakers) and they've been around a while. Nothing special in sound quality, however they get LOUD and do it clearly. Woofers are unbranded and the tweeters are cheap motorolas. No crossover, you get what I'm saying.... Cabinets look nice though lol.

I hooked them up to an old 5.1 Sony receiver to the A channels, then on the left for B channels my sub is hooked up with a crossover in the wire run. The tape out on my mixer runs to the receiver and there is zero latency, perfectly in sync with the monitors. Receiver has a setting for A+B which works great, both the towers and sub play at good volumes. Adds a whole other level of SPL and bass to music listening, and the imaging and sound stage is still perfect with them stacked. I think it actually sounds great.

Monitors stacked upside down so tweeters are next to each other for better imaging.

It is NOT what I would produce with but I do use it for regular listening and also for DJing alongside an 18" sub. Production would be strictly monitors and situation dependent, the sub. I've been DJing more recently and this setup works great without having to spend $800 on good PAs right now.


----------



## hertz9753

Looks like foam surround stitched to your woofer. It's a long throw woofer, I'm pretty sure about that.


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Looks like foam surround stitched to your woofer. It's a long throw woofer, I'm pretty sure about that.


Link for the sub on SSAs store:

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-e8v3-subwoofer-200w-e-series.html

Yep the foam surround is very large but in turn it has good Xmax for an 8" at 12mm. And the output would probably be more than enough for most people in a car setup lol.

I have this sitting right next to my computer that I could replace the 8" with, need to build a box though:

http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/sundown-audio-sa-15-600w-sa-series.html


----------



## givmedew

What I was saying about the quality of a t-amp at near field being better than a several hundred dollar receiver goes all the to $1000+ receivers so that covers pioneer elite as well. For example I have a pioneer elite that I use as a HDMI switch, sound processor, and rear channel amp on one of my setups and that thing retailed for $1000 can be picked up used for less than $300 but won't sound better than a $30 modified t-amp at low volumes. Go past what the t amp can do before distorting then yes of course the bigger amplifier will sound better because it won't be distorting and clipping.

Again I don't know anything about the Dayton t-amp but at that price I suspect is has some upgraded parts in it that will make the bass issue the original $30 sonic t-amps had be a non issue. Again though that is just speculation I don't even know what chip the DA is based off of. But if the older tiny chip could handle near field listening and even with great bass after just a few modifications with inexpensive parts then I would hope that is what they did from the start with the Dayton one. There are highly improved t-amp designs out there when compared to the original old ones and they are affordable.

Whoever recommended the DA was probably right on the money for that speaker setup the budget and the way it will be used.

Also as far as cranking it up and walking away... If my tiny little chip can handle that but just a lowered quality then I don't see why the da wouldn't be able to do that but even better... It supposedly has a much higher output.


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> And also there's ZERO reason more than one sub is ever required. Any more than one is personal preference, especially if we are talking stereo for a home theater set up. Sub bass frequencies are omnidirectional, so it doesn't matter. More than one in the same box is of course different and for more output.


Smoother bass throughout the room. Increased output or headroom and lower distortion.


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb*
> 
> Smoother bass throughout the room. Increased output or headroom and lower distortion.


And again, still easily obtainable for less money with a single sub.


----------



## Simca

Not all subwoofers can do the same thing. Some subwoofers are intended to be punchy for music. Others are created for HT purposes and are more subbass oriented. Having one subwoofer won't let you get all the range with the right effect unless you are prepared to spend thousands and even then I haven't heard a subwoofer than can handle everything like a champ.


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Not all subwoofers can do the same thing. Some subwoofers are intended to be punchy for music. Others are created for HT purposes and are more subbass oriented. Having one subwoofer won't let you get all the range with the right effect unless you are prepared to spend thousands and even then I haven't heard a subwoofer than can handle everything like a champ.


No sorry, going to have to disagree with you.

It's almost never the driver that's the problem, it's the enclosure.

The enclosure is much more important than driver choice. Yes all subwoofers are meant to do the same thing, what determines its actual use, frequency response etc in music or HT is the enclosure it is located in.


----------



## Simca

So you disagree because I said driver even though the message conveyed is still the same. Ok, whatever.


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> And again, still easily obtainable for less money with a single sub.


lol. no.

Also, a good sub is a good sub. There is no reason for a sub to be better for movies or music.


----------



## skyn3t

I'm selling my M-Audio BX5a if anyone are interesting. reason my mobo just died and i need to buy a new one but can't get this cash from my pcoket anymore not this year. I had done so much upgrade. link is on my SiG riG. help me out .


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> So you disagree because I said driver even though the message conveyed is still the same. Ok, whatever.


No, I disagree because you said "Having one subwoofer won't let you get all the range with the right effect unless you are prepared to spend thousands and even then I haven't heard a subwoofer than can handle everything like a champ", which I completely disagree with.

Contrary to popular belief, an 18" subwoofer can play higher bass frequencies (70,80+) perfectly well in the properly designed box (still slightly driver dependent of course). Same goes for an 8" woofer, it can extend all the way down as low as an 18" would, just not at as loud. My current 8" has no problem playing ~30hz audibly in music.

Anyone spending any decent amount of money on their speakers is going to have multiple sized drivers for midrange etc, so covering the entire range of ~20hz-20,000hz isn't a problem when a single sub is added.

Room acoustics, speaker placement and enclosure quality is what ruins frequency response.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb*
> 
> lol. no.
> 
> Also, a good sub is a good sub. There is no reason for a sub to be better for movies or music.


Um, sure there is. While it has nothing to do with the driver, it has everything to do with the enclosure. Subwoofer enclosures for HT are nowhere near the tuning frequency of enclosures made for music.

And a good sub will sound as good as a $25 sub without a proper enclosure. Driver quality is not the problem.

And again, saying you need more than one subwoofer is nonsense. Adding another identical subwoofer is only going to increase output and potentially increase the dispersion of bass in the room it's in. In no way are the subs playing "different ranges" or doing something the other isn't. That is just pure nonsense.

I will say it again. Adding a second sub is a luxury, not a necessity. It adds NOTHING a single sub can't do besides what I already stated.


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Um, sure there is. While it has nothing to do with the driver, it has everything to do with the enclosure. Subwoofer enclosures for HT are nowhere near the tuning frequency of enclosures made for music.
> 
> And a good sub will sound as good as a $25 sub without a proper enclosure. Driver quality is not the problem.
> 
> And again, saying you need more than one subwoofer is nonsense. Adding another identical subwoofer is only going to increase output and potentially increase the dispersion of bass in the room it's in. In no way are the subs playing "different ranges" or doing something the other isn't. That is just pure nonsense.
> 
> I will say it again. Adding a second sub is a luxury, not a necessity. It adds NOTHING a single sub can't do besides what I already stated.


I never said they would play different ranges. I said smoother bass and increased output - which is exactly what you are saying they would do now, despite saying you could magically get it from a single sub in your earlier response. If you have a null in your room, it won't just disappear because you want it to (and you can't EQ out a null). You can try moving the sub around or moving your listening position, but what if it doesn't go away? Then you need another sub or two or three in a different location. You would also get an increase in maximum output.

If you somehow get a nice flat response from a single unit in whatever location, then yes, you can get another 6dB of output by colocating an identical unit. That is not an insignificant increase and would be very noticeable. Alternatively, if you listened at the same level as you did before, you would have 1/4 the distortion level as you would from a single sub.

If you have a subwoofer that's flat from 20hz-150hz with low distortion, guess what? That subwoofer is perfectly capable for music and movies. Sure, if you buy a pro audio sub that's tuned for 35hz or 45hz with a steep rolloff, you'll miss whatever lower frequencies there are for movies and/or music. Some people are perfectly fine missing out with those last few octaves, while others are not.

Obviously a subwoofer is a system. You can't take a great driver and toss it in a poorly designed or constructed enclosure and expect it to sound great. Yes, if you have a well designed enclosure and an adequate driver, the sub will sound great within it's design limits.


----------



## Simca

Name me a subwoofer that can play every bass note the way it should sound. The right punch and the right subbass resonance.

Then tell me the cheapest subwoofer you can find that does that.

Cuz the HSU VTF-3 for starters doesn't deliver the punchy bass that belongs in music. It's more oriented to subbass. It's regarded as a very good subwoofer.


----------



## Blindsay

im still rocking my Velodyne F1500 R, bit old at this point but its still pretty amazing imo


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Name me a subwoofer that can play every bass note the way it should sound. The right punch and the right subbass resonance.
> 
> Then tell me the cheapest subwoofer you can find that does that.
> 
> Cuz the HSU VTF-3 for starters doesn't deliver the punchy bass that belongs in music. It's more oriented to subbass. It's regarded as a very good subwoofer.


It is a good subwoofer. It's entirely possible you don't have it properly set up or integrated. Or it's entirely possible you just want something that sounds different. How you want things to sound is up to you. What do you consider punchy bass? I am more than satisfied with my outlaw lfm-1 ex which is similar to an older version of the VTF-3. I am of course aware of it's limitations - like any other ported subwoofer, response drops like a rock below tune and distortion skyrockets. Would I buy another one? Yep. Would I rather have something better? Sure.

If you want something with response down into the single digits with a lot of output, then you would need to look at a high powered sealed unit like the seaton submersive or the jtr captivator s1 or s2, or funk audio 18.0 (and many others, with a very broad range in price). There are of course many other good sealed units out there for much less money if you don't need as much output or whatever. If you aren't as concerned with single digit response, then there are plenty of great ported subs out there like the rythmik fv15hp, jtr captivator, svs pb13ultra, and many others.

The VTF-3 is a great sub, especially for the money. It should outperform a large majority of subwoofers around its price range. If you aren't satisfied with how it sounds, you should look into getting REW or omnimic or something and trying to measure your response. Perhaps you are sitting in a null or just really uneven response.


----------



## Simca

I thought about upgrading to the Rhythmik F15 but I'd have to pay full price for it.


----------



## givmedew

You guys are right about what your are saying in most cases. Some people have large rooms and 2 subwoofers are necessary for proper SPL unless they want a huge gigantic sub that may have other drawbacks. The driver is important and so is the enclosure. Unfortunately most enclosures are designed to increase SPL and decrease amplifier and driver quality requirements. Getting good SPL out of a great enclosure design is going to cost you by needing a much better driver that can handle a lot more power and the amplifier to back that up. Great enclosure designs are the most simple designs. Porting an enclosure correctly is not simple and is rarely done in the best way because of size but it reduces the cost of the subwoofer because it reduces the cost of the amplifier and driver.

Great HT subs are not necessarily great music subs because often a great HT subwoofer is designs for maximum SPL and it could be at a cost. So essentially you could grab a 15" ported subwoofer and only connect it to the LFE and then grab a nice tight sealed subwoofer and connect it to the front speaker levels and not the LFE. It also all has to do with your speaker amp and your front speakers. If you dont have an extremely expensive high current amplifier then turning on a x-over on the speakers to a very low setting with a slow roll off will save you some power which means less distortion from the speakers. You will then need your sub to cover some of the frequencies above 50HZ before roll off and that changes a lot of things in sub selection and the higher the subwoofer frequency the sooner it will become localized which is not good. You should not be able to close your eyes and point to the subs location from sound alone.

Anyways all I am trying to say is neither of you are wrong and no reason to argue.

One of the biggest things is it is personal preference and it has so much to do with the system as a whole and we are counting the room as part of the system.

For the time being I am playing around with 2 subwoofers. An affordable ported subwoofer that is only connected to LFE and then a custom made sealed subwoofer with an external amplifier and is only connected to the left and right channels.

This allows me to tune the subwoofer for music and then just let the LFE sub do whatever it wants in a movie since I cold honestly care less about it.

There are subwoofers that have separate front channel and LFE inputs and separate x-over and levels for those inputs but they are few and far between. Also punchy subwoofers capable of extreme SPL and low frequencies exist but they are not cheap. The smaller sealed triple sub from Martin Logan and even the bigger one are quite musical and both are capable of breathe altering lows. REL makes some ones that are capable of both as well and I'm sure some other companies do a great job too.

So no reason to go back and fourth both of you are correct and neither of you are wrong.


----------



## Simca

On the flip side, I wouldn't personally put 2 subwoofers in any room other than the theater room.


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> On the flip side, I wouldn't personally put 2 subwoofers in any room other than the theater room.


And I feel the same way. Only in a large theater room would I have more than one subwoofer since volume levels are going to be very high.

In my car or room I don't need more than the single subs I run, the bass is already wayyyy to much for lots of people.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> On the flip side, I wouldn't personally put 2 subwoofers in any room other than the theater room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I feel the same way. Only in a large theater room would I have more than one subwoofer since volume levels are going to be very high.
> 
> In my car or room I don't need more than the single subs I run, the bass is already wayyyy to much for lots of people.
Click to expand...

At least it isn't too little/small. Too much means you get to eq the sub to push up the really low frequencies and turn the gain way down to enjoy less distortion. I usually try to run subs at a very low volume compared to the max they can handle and rarely above 60hz before slope. Usually try to use a very low x over frequency couple with a slow slope so that it slowly tapers off. So if you have a sub that is more powerful than you need you can really get it to back up some very low frequencies without becoming noisy.


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> At least it isn't too little/small. Too much means you get to eq the sub to push up the really low frequencies and turn the gain way down to enjoy less distortion. I usually try to run subs at a very low volume compared to the max they can handle and rarely above 60hz before slope. Usually try to use a very low x over frequency couple with a slow slope so that it slowly tapers off. So if you have a sub that is more powerful than you need you can really get it to back up some very low frequencies without becoming noisy.


Oh yea you definitely can, even with a small sub. Get it so it just integrates, not louder than the mids and highs really. I know what you mean, that's more like my studio setup.

My car is pure enjoyment for me. The bass is crazy cause I like it that way. It's never to loud for me lol.


----------



## pioneerisloud

There's no such thing as too much subwoofer lol. I'm putting 4 8s in my car in January with 6kw rms to them. I have nothing in the house right now since I'm in an apartment.

Keep in mind subwoofers really shouldn't play more than 1-1.5 octaves. Anything higher than that point should be left for your front speakers. So if you're hitting 25hz as the lowest point then 60hz would be the highest point. No subwoofer that's properly designed will do 20-150hz cleanly and successfully. That's asking too much.

Plus bass becomes directional after 60-80hz ish (depending on the room). So why would anyone want directional bass in a proper setup coming from their subwoofer?


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Keep in mind subwoofers really shouldn't play more than 1-1.5 octaves. Anything higher than that point should be left for your front speakers. So if you're hitting 25hz as the lowest point then 60hz would be the highest point. No subwoofer that's properly designed will do 20-150hz cleanly and successfully. That's asking too much.
> 
> Plus bass becomes directional after 60-80hz ish (depending on the room). So why would anyone want directional bass in a proper setup coming from their subwoofer?


I completely disagree.

You should read some of the articles and list of bass myths here: http://www.data-bass.com/home, as well as looking at the testing procedure and reading some of the reviews. There are tons of very capable subwoofers out there.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gorb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Keep in mind subwoofers really shouldn't play more than 1-1.5 octaves. Anything higher than that point should be left for your front speakers. So if you're hitting 25hz as the lowest point then 60hz would be the highest point. No subwoofer that's properly designed will do 20-150hz cleanly and successfully. That's asking too much.
> 
> Plus bass becomes directional after 60-80hz ish (depending on the room). So why would anyone want directional bass in a proper setup coming from their subwoofer?
> 
> 
> 
> I completely disagree.
> 
> You should read some of the articles and list of bass myths here: http://www.data-bass.com/home, as well as looking at the testing procedure and reading some of the reviews. There are tons of very capable subwoofers out there.
Click to expand...

I never said there weren't very capable ones. But seriously who would want directional sub bass? That was the entire point of my post.


----------



## givmedew

Totally agree with you. I use x-over and eq to get my sub where I need. Usually use a very very low frequency for the x-over with a 12db instead of 24db slope which means the sub will gradually taper up into the higher frequencies which makes it mesh well with the speakers. Works better than setting a higher frequency and a sharper slope. I havn't been a bass head for years... like 10 years. Used to be big into have a huge sub in my car but high end fronts and huge front amps took precedent. I always got the stuff for below cost (less than what a retailer pays for it). So the last system I bought was a single W7 and a 1000.1 about 10 years ago. I ended up converting my previous subwoofer Infinity Kapa Perfect Dual Voice Coil Variable Q into a home subwoofer as many people have used that driver for home subs. It allows you to change the Q of the subwoofer by completely removing the vent and changing it to smaller or larger vents therefore allowing you to really make the enclosure you truly want. I bring it out once in a while and play around with it but it mostly sits in the closet I have since fallen in love with a different subwoofer.

Whats amazingly STUPID is that the room correction trys to set my sub x-over to an extremely high frequency (300HZ) and I have complained about that to the manufacturer of the processor and it seems a lot of people with passive subs are having this issue so I had to get an active x-over for it otherwise I would have had to disable any room correction applied to the subwoofer. They are supposedly trying to patch this issue in an upcoming firmware but







no happy.

Totally used to love having huge bass in the car though







takes me back to my late teens and early 20s. I kind of lost interest in the entire thing when a car of mine that had a lot of gear in it was completely gutted while at a body shop. They left some of the most expensive parts not knowing what they where including 2 alpine sound processors. But stole everything else including the speakers, tweeters, tore my rear passenger panels off to find out I DONT USE REARS LOL, stole my batter and integrated battery block even took the valve cover, wheels, capacitor, amps, subs whole 9 yards. It was after that I purchased a simple system from JL and BA which where 2 of the companies I could get gear for nothing from. Still have that stuff and have the sub turned so low you can barely tell it is there.

Home audio has become my passion it is so much easier to get sounding perfect and not likely to be stolen. So unlikely to be stolen that my house was broken into when I lived in florida they stole so much stuff that they had to steel 2 huge pillow cases to carry more stuff with yet they left all of the high end audio gear behind and only knocked over a pair of really nice speakers denting the wood. Other than that only mainstream electronics you could get at circuit city. Thieves are stupid sometimes... had some carny folk case a store I worked at and they ended up stealing several flat panel displays when if they had just brought a dolly and got away with 1 equipment rack they would have stolen 100,000k in gear instead of a bunch of glass TVs that surely broke in the back of the pickup truck they used.

4 8s though holy cow! that will be punchy as hell. I have designed quite a few systems around JL 8W3s and even W0s and they sound great. We usually used 3-4 depending on the amplifier the person was willing to buy. A single 10w7 is more than enough for me though







. Small subs cost a lot to drive but it's worth it once you hear them


----------



## gorb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I never said there weren't very capable ones. But seriously who would want directional sub bass? That was the entire point of my post.


There isn't a golden rule of where bass becomes directional, but obviously there is nothing wrong with setting an xover to 80hz. Iif you are really that concerned, put your subs in the same place as your mains.

I was mainly responding to the first part of your post, anyway. Saying a subwoofer should only play 1-1.5 octaves is ridiculous. There are a LOT of subwoofers that will do 20hz-120hz cleanly and successfully.


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Totally agree with you. I use x-over and eq to get my sub where I need. Usually use a very very low frequency for the x-over with a 12db instead of 24db slope which means the sub will gradually taper up into the higher frequencies which makes it mesh well with the speakers. Works better than setting a higher frequency and a sharper slope. I havn't been a bass head for years... like 10 years. Used to be big into have a huge sub in my car but high end fronts and huge front amps took precedent. I always got the stuff for below cost (less than what a retailer pays for it). So the last system I bought was a single W7 and a 1000.1 about 10 years ago. I ended up converting my previous subwoofer Infinity Kapa Perfect Dual Voice Coil Variable Q into a home subwoofer as many people have used that driver for home subs. It allows you to change the Q of the subwoofer by completely removing the vent and changing it to smaller or larger vents therefore allowing you to really make the enclosure you truly want. I bring it out once in a while and play around with it but it mostly sits in the closet I have since fallen in love with a different subwoofer.
> 
> Whats amazingly STUPID is that the room correction trys to set my sub x-over to an extremely high frequency (300HZ) and I have complained about that to the manufacturer of the processor and it seems a lot of people with passive subs are having this issue so I had to get an active x-over for it otherwise I would have had to disable any room correction applied to the subwoofer. They are supposedly trying to patch this issue in an upcoming firmware but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no happy.
> 
> Totally used to love having huge bass in the car though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> takes me back to my late teens and early 20s. I kind of lost interest in the entire thing when a car of mine that had a lot of gear in it was completely gutted while at a body shop. They left some of the most expensive parts not knowing what they where including 2 alpine sound processors. But stole everything else including the speakers, tweeters, tore my rear passenger panels off to find out I DONT USE REARS LOL, stole my batter and integrated battery block even took the valve cover, wheels, capacitor, amps, subs whole 9 yards. It was after that I purchased a simple system from JL and BA which where 2 of the companies I could get gear for nothing from. Still have that stuff and have the sub turned so low you can barely tell it is there.
> 
> Home audio has become my passion it is so much easier to get sounding perfect and not likely to be stolen. So unlikely to be stolen that my house was broken into when I lived in florida they stole so much stuff that they had to steel 2 huge pillow cases to carry more stuff with yet they left all of the high end audio gear behind and only knocked over a pair of really nice speakers denting the wood. Other than that only mainstream electronics you could get at circuit city. Thieves are stupid sometimes... had some carny folk case a store I worked at and they ended up stealing several flat panel displays when if they had just brought a dolly and got away with 1 equipment rack they would have stolen 100,000k in gear instead of a bunch of glass TVs that surely broke in the back of the pickup truck they used.
> 
> 4 8s though holy cow! that will be punchy as hell. I have designed quite a few systems around JL 8W3s and even W0s and they sound great. We usually used 3-4 depending on the amplifier the person was willing to buy. A single 10w7 is more than enough for me though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Small subs cost a lot to drive but it's worth it once you hear them


I'll always be a bass head. I've done home theater and would still if I didn't get into producing and DJing too more recently, so my speaker needs have changed.

In my studio setting sound quality is my number one priority. While I use a ported enclosure, I still like to get bassy when I'm just listening to music. Otherwise though my sub is lower and blends perfect. Sometimes I even run with no sub, just the monitors and it still sounds awesome to me.

Sorry to hear about your **** getting stolen man, that sucks. 4 8"s will be nice in a proper ported box. That will be loud for sure.

My car is just a different place for me to listen to music. It can always be at extreme SPLs, pretty much anywhere where a police car isn't in sight







While quality is still always my main concern, I need output too. I run Alpine SPR-13S' in my doors, Pioneer DEH-6300UB as my head unit, Sundown Audio SAX-1200D @ 1 ohm as my amp for my sub, Rockford Fosgate P500-2 as the amp for my doors, and for the sub a Fi SSD 18".

Here's a pic of the sub in my jeep (Traded a box I made for another box, so this says sundown audio):



And of the sub itself:





All on a budget. Amp choice is crucial though so those are both the most expensive.


----------



## givmedew

@ 80HZ even with a 24dB slope it is usually accepted that you can consider that to be directional or localized when playing those actual frequencies. It isn't horrible but any setting above that can clearly be considered as localized. That shouldn't be a problem though as most speakers should be able to go down to 80HZ without a problem. Depending on the size of your amplifier it could be very beneficial to set your mains as small with a x-over point somewhere around 80HZ even if the speaker can go much lower. If you have very fine adjustment ability you want it to be just a tad above x over point for the subwoofer. The lower you set the subwoofer and speaker the more power your speakers will draw. The higher you set the x-over on your speakers and sub the less power the speakers will draw and the more localized the subwoofer will be. Most amplifiers in receivers that cost less than $1500 or even $2000 are somewhat underpowered so I would say setting a x-over of 80HZ would significantly lower the distortion from the speakers. So it makes it worth it to have a little bit of localized bass. As gorb said you can put the subwoofer near/between the speakers that is actually where I have mine BUT it will come at a cost. That is rarely the optimal spot for the subwoofer and you would want to calculate how much of a loss in SPL occurs from putting it in that location. Remember that 2x the perceived volume (10dB) takes 10x the amount of power to create. So usually it is best to just put the subwoofer where it is the loudest especially if you will be using up a ton of the subwoofers power to drive higher frequencies.

A lot of it comes down to preference and wife acceptance (placement of speakers/subs in a location that is "sensible" by the females standards and no you cant put a plant on my subwoofer!).

Actually my wife got away with putting a plant on top my subwoofer anyways by placing an ikea end table over the top of the subwoofer then putting a plant on the end table. I came around glued the legs of the end table together and use double sided sticky tape on the bottom of the plant holder







. It was a compromise LOL.

Anyways though you can def save some power on the mains with a higher x-over point but if you are setting your mains to large and they don't have a high pass on the mid/low and you are setting the subwoofer above 60hz you will have a hump in the frequency response and some localization.

@hatrix

Nice setup... big subs are the way to go if you want to save money. Never been an actual fan of using an 8 myself. The reason for running 3 to 4 in those installs is because surface area is king. It takes 10x the amplifier power to double the perceived volume of a single speaker. In most of the builds we did we would usually limit the design around no more than a single JL 1000.1 or equivalent and usually a 500.1 or equivalent. So you use whatever arrangement of subs that you can fit that will get you as close as possible to the amps lowest rated load. I rarely designed installs for SUVs because the ones that came to us where usually designed around SPL and we had a guy that specialized in those designs. I got to deal with the people who wanted the whole package and usually they where snotty people that wanted us to magically design a system that would still allow them to stow golf clubs in the trunk! So 8s often came in handy because you could really get them to fit in some tight spots. Even used a lot of 6w0 and 6w3 in some of those installs. Anything bigger than an 8 was often too difficult to work with and still retain the majority of the trunk for storage.

I will always enjoy too much bass in a car though LOL! I hear cars go by my condo all the time that from a block away are making more bass than I have my home sub set to make... it reminds me of those days way back when that was all I cared for.


----------



## hertz9753

When I'm in the mood for more bass I turn on my crappy Acoustic Audio 10" sub. Phase on the Velodyne remote is sweet..

Is this the subwoofer thread now? Good to see more posts on this thread.


----------



## pioneerisloud

I'm going to repurpose my fi bl 12s as home theater subs later probably with 2 Dayton 1000w sub amps. The guy above is right about my car. 4 8s is more for surface area and the ones I'm choosing will take 1500w each all day. Tuning probably around 34hz. The fi bl's will probably be tuned around 20-25hz in my home theater.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> When I'm in the mood for more bass I turn on my crappy Acoustic Audio 10" sub. Phase on the Velodyne remote is sweet..
> 
> Is this the subwoofer thread now? Good to see more posts on this thread.


I think the thread got a subwoofer injection to the arm when someone posted something about a subwoofer and then someone swooped in talking trash about subs... since then it has been a lot of sub talk








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> I'm going to repurpose my fi bl 12s as home theater subs later probably with 2 Dayton 1000w sub amps. The guy above is right about my car. 4 8s is more for surface area and the ones I'm choosing will take 1500w each all day. Tuning probably around 34hz. The fi bl's will probably be tuned around 20-25hz in my home theater.


Are you going to run the 12s in separate rooms or both in one room... if both in one room are you going to make 2 different boxes or one big box? Can you link the sub amp? I am using a HUGE 2CH rack mount A/B class amplifier that doubles as a space heater to power my subwoofer I really get on my wifes case when she forgets to turn off the processor because it leaves all the amplifiers running and all the equipment is in my computer room so that it doesn't make the living room look messy so my computer room raises 5-10c if she leaves the damn rack powered up.

I need to move to digital amplifiers on the channels that I don't care about as much. The rears and you can't really tell much of a difference in D vs A/B when using a subwoofer so anything to cut down the power bill and the heat. Plus a plate amp will be nice to have if it doesn't throw off the volume of the enclosure otherwise I will have to completely build a new enclosure







Maybe I can just use spacers and make the plate amp be completely outside of the enclosure. Would run cooler and won't have to worry about the displacement.

When you repurpose those subwoofers make sure you comment about it in hear. Even if you make another thread just make sure you post a link hear. I usually try to read what is being said on this thread.

A lot of hateraid or complete lack of posts the last few months so I am glad people are in hear talking again.










Oh also those 15s... with some decent EQ settings you should be able to get rid of the room bump that happens somewhere around 25hz and then if you are going to be running them well below the limits you should be able to get some nice bass extension below 20HZ with an EQ. Certainly would sound and feel SICK if you nailed it just right. If you do use 2 identical subwoofers in separate areas just read the hell out of subwoofer placement guides and do tons of testing. All part of the fun but also why I don't use 2 subs to increase volume I am just using 2 subs because I don't want to have to mess with tuning LFE on my good sub when I can just use a cheap sub for LFE and not care. I really could care less about movies... for me it is all about the music.


----------



## pioneerisloud

The Dayton amps are on parts express. I'd link but I'm on my phone.

Was going to use two separate enclosures for the 12s, probably around 3-3.5 cuft ported really low. This way I can play with positioning and get optimal output with as little of dead spots as possible.


----------



## givmedew

Oh that kills me... not much of a saving to the 500w amp... so I'd be silly not to get the 1000w LOL... I'd need to sell my rack mount first... probably break even. Will have to build a new enclosure for sure. The displacement on that thing if it is sealed is huge... I would probably seal it so I didn't have to worry about it. Def cant just mount it the back of the box LOL.

Wonder if it is safe to run without the cover... that would def reduce the displacement. Also worried about how it will compromise the design of the box itself... might be overthinking it though but I have always built extremely rigid boxes I don't like the idea of cutting a huge hole in the side of it.


----------



## hatrix216

Glad to see someone else repping Fi on overclock pioneerisloud









I would've went with a BL if I had the money. I have however heard very expensive subs, and some single setups with $500 woofers still aren't as loud as my SSD. Speaking of other brands of course. I will always stand by Fi.

I'm just going to get a hold of another SSD though. I might have to find TWO however, because I need both D1 subs so I can wire down to 1 ohm without multiple amps.

And I agree givmedew, surface area is definitely important. With a single 18" driver, it has to do considerably less work to produce output than a smaller sized driver. Its funny when it's turned down but still clearly audible and doesn't look like it's even moving.

Working in a space conscious car, I would have no problem running 8" subs. I love the one in my room. Might swap it for my SA-15 though.... not sure. I'm sure your system will be great sounding pioneerisloud.

I could always talk about subwoofers lol







Audio in general is just a huge passion of mine.


----------



## gorb

My car audio is still completely stock. I'd like to do some upgrades eventually. I've had a nice little soundsplinter orphan 8 just sitting in my closet for the last year or so, but I'm lazy and my car isn't high on my priority list right now.


----------



## hatrix216

I replaced my door speakers first actually. They were atrocious stock speakers... old jeep lol. Literally paper with a positive and negative wire.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Do you guys feel Alpine is still a good car speaker company? I am looking to replace the speakers in my Lexus RX300.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> Glad to see someone else repping Fi on overclock pioneerisloud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would've went with a BL if I had the money. I have however heard very expensive subs, and some single setups with $500 woofers still aren't as loud as my SSD. Speaking of other brands of course. I will always stand by Fi.
> 
> I'm just going to get a hold of another SSD though. I might have to find TWO however, because I need both D1 subs so I can wire down to 1 ohm without multiple amps.
> 
> And I agree givmedew, surface area is definitely important. With a single 18" driver, it has to do considerably less work to produce output than a smaller sized driver. Its funny when it's turned down but still clearly audible and doesn't look like it's even moving.
> 
> Working in a space conscious car, I would have no problem running 8" subs. I love the one in my room. Might swap it for my SA-15 though.... not sure. I'm sure your system will be great sounding pioneerisloud.
> 
> I could always talk about subwoofers lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Audio in general is just a huge passion of mine.


You can check me out on you tube if you'd like. I've got a couple videos up of my fi bl's with 3k. Unfortunately one of my bl's is now dead and the other has coil rub. So they're both due for a recone now.

Saving for four sa8 v2 spls and two more apsm1500s. Figured that'd be easier to squeeze into my tiny car. Shooting for 150db+ and wanting to compete at 139.9.

So yeah going to recone those bad boys for dual 2ohm probably for a 4ohm load per amp for ht purposes soon.









Edit:
Don't forget guys we have a car stereo club just for car audio stuff. I think the link is still in my signature.


----------



## hatrix216

I don't think I ever noticed the thread. Nice.

SA-8"s are nice woofers. My E8v3 is such a nice woofer I would imagine 4 SA-8s would be around what you are hoping for dB wise.

Sucks about the BLs. How old are they ? My SSD is probably 4-5 years old or so.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Never knew we had a car audio forum. Will ask there now. Thanks!


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatrix216*
> 
> I don't think I ever noticed the thread. Nice.
> 
> SA-8"s are nice woofers. My E8v3 is such a nice woofer I would imagine 4 SA-8s would be around what you are hoping for dB wise.
> 
> Sucks about the BLs. How old are they ? My SSD is probably 4-5 years old or so.


They're 2005 model I think? Not sure. They were fresh reconed when I got them in august but the one had coil rub from the start. Blew them because the box was just too small. 2.1 cuft wasn't enough for 2 woofers and 3kw lol. I knew that going in, I just didn't realize they'd blow that easy.

No biggie. Just means I can build something bigger. The 12s weren't going to work right in my car anyway.... Just not enough trunk space.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> Never knew we had a car audio forum. Will ask there now. Thanks!


Not really a separate forum but it's a club I made because I got tired of so many pms about it lol.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> Do you guys feel Alpine is still a good car speaker company? I am looking to replace the speakers in my Lexus RX300.


Depends on your price range. They have a fairly large gap in their product line up. It also depends on what you will be powering them with... If you are going to power them by head unit then no don't buy alpine. If you are going to use a dedicated amplifier then no problem at all. Nothing wrong with the speakers but don't bother running them off a head unit.

If you must run off a head unit then go for something like

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6LQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000P0R6LQ&linkCode=as2&tag=caraudionow-20

or

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017LFSXU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0017LFSXU&linkCode=as2&tag=caraudionow-20

They will have substantially less distortion at higher volumes than the Alpine speakers.

The price are great on those as well really good for the price.

Tons of other speakers out there... be careful about the sensitivity when looking if you are going to run off the head unit. Lower sensitivity means more distortion at the same volume output because it will require more power and a higher volume setting to achieve the same output.

If your budget is closer to the $1000 range or even $500 then that changes everything and you absolutely better be running an amplifier if you are going to spend more than $200 on a pair of front speakers.

Also those infinity speakers claim to be "true 4ohm" they have done things to the design so that they feel the head unit will see an actual 4ohm load instead of the higher impedance that normally ends up happening. This would mean the head unit amplifier would output more power.


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> They're 2005 model I think? Not sure. They were fresh reconed when I got them in august but the one had coil rub from the start. Blew them because the box was just too small. 2.1 cuft wasn't enough for 2 woofers and 3kw lol. I knew that going in, I just didn't realize they'd blow that easy.
> 
> No biggie. Just means I can build something bigger. The 12s weren't going to work right in my car anyway.... Just not enough trunk space.
> Not really a separate forum but it's a club I made because I got tired of so many pms about it lol.


Very true. That's definitely a small box. The first box I built was 9 cuft







It was designed for my Fi SSD 18" but not for car audio, for use inside my room, thus gigantic box. And when I go to build my box once I get a second SSD it's going to be pretty large... Some pics of my old box:






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Depends on your price range. They have a fairly large gap in their product line up. It also depends on what you will be powering them with... If you are going to power them by head unit then no don't buy alpine. If you are going to use a dedicated amplifier then no problem at all. Nothing wrong with the speakers but don't bother running them off a head unit.
> 
> If you must run off a head unit then go for something like
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6LQ/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000P0R6LQ&linkCode=as2&tag=caraudionow-20
> 
> or
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017LFSXU/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0017LFSXU&linkCode=as2&tag=caraudionow-20
> 
> They will have substantially less distortion at higher volumes than the Alpine speakers.


I bought my alpines on a whim without really putting a lot of thought into the purchase unlike everything else I've every bought lol. I always research for days.

I couldn't be happier though. On a rockford P500-2 they get LOUD and sound fantastic. Not quite where my studio monitors are in terms of sound quality lol, but more SPL.

If they can be heard over my sub distorting clearly, they are decent speakers lol. A proper amp is crucial though ago, I agree with what you said.


----------



## givmedew

I wasn't saying anything bad about alpine just there is a gap in the product line up (all companies have gaps they have a $800 gap) and that you must amp them because of the sensitivity. The 2 I recommended have a much higher sensitivity and the infinity ones will have a lower resistance which means the head unit would put out more power. They are designed to have 4ohm resistance at the head unit. Infinity claims other brands have a slightly higher load once at the head unit itself.

I choose alpine components for the system I designed for my moms car but I ran the fronts off a huge 2CH amp that I put under the seat. But I was a little biased in my decision at the time since there where only 4 companies to choose from that I could get below cost and only 3 of them had good speakers. Boston, JL, and Alpine.

Which ones did you end up getting and how long ago? Not that how long ago makes a big difference because I can't see any obvious major changes to their components and not that they needed any changes either.


----------



## hatrix216

Me ? I run Alpine SPR-13S 5.25" Components bought around 5+ years ago.


----------



## lilchronic

What's up people









I have i few questions, i have 12" KICKER's Comp sub. and i want to get a Subwoofer Plate Amplifier will this work with my sub woofer??? and is that the right amp i need??
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker---Comp-12%22-Single-Voice-Coil-4-Ohm-Subwoofer/9892921.p?id=1218190731552&skuId=9892921
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-802

figured i could ask here


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> What's up people
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have i few questions, i have 12" KICKER's Comp sub. and i want to get a Subwoofer Plate Amplifier will this work with my sub woofer??? and is that the right amp i need??
> http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Kicker---Comp-12%22-Single-Voice-Coil-4-Ohm-Subwoofer/9892921.p?id=1218190731552&skuId=9892921
> http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-802
> 
> figured i could ask here


Yeah that will work. But to be honest that sub really isn't going to sound all that great. Make sure your enclosure is correct for what you're trying to achieve.


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Yeah that will work. But to be honest that sub really isn't going to sound all that great. Make sure your enclosure is correct for what you're trying to achieve.


yeah i just have the sub i need a box that can fit the plate and the sub. anyway why wont it sound that great is it the sub or the amp? i got the sub for free so what the heck why not









would i be better off buyng a powerd 12" sub?


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Yeah that will work. But to be honest that sub really isn't going to sound all that great. Make sure your enclosure is correct for what you're trying to achieve.
> 
> 
> 
> yeah i just have the sub i need a box that can fit the plate and the sub. anyway why wont it sound that great is it the sub or the amp? i got the sub for free so what the heck why not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would i be better off buyng a powerd 12" sub?
Click to expand...

Honestly, unless you're good with woodworking you're looking at about $80 for the enclosure (even if you did build it) plus that plate amp. So I'd suggest a Dayton sub1200 or Polk psw505. No hassle, and either will sound better too. Save the kicker for a car.


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pioneerisloud*
> 
> Honestly, unless you're good with woodworking you're looking at about $80 for the enclosure (even if you did build it) plus that plate amp. So I'd suggest a Dayton sub1200 or Polk psw505. No hassle, and either will sound better too. Save the kicker for a car.


yeah you're right, i just ordered the Dayton sub1200 instead of the Subwoofer Plate Amplifier








lol thought i was going to save some money


----------



## TheNegotiator

I'd like to join..









Home Theater:
3x Nexo PS10 (LCR)
4x Klipsch RB-81 II (Surrounds)
2x Custom build folded horn subwoofers

Bedroom Theater:
2x Magnepan MMGW (LR)
2x Klipsch RB-51 (Surround)
1x Custom 15" sealed subwoofer with a Dayton Audio Reference driver

Computer Speakers:
2x Dynaudio BM5A MkII


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmgunn*
> 
> I'd like to join..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Home Theater:
> 3x Nexo PS10 (LCR)
> 4x Klipsch RB-81 II (Surrounds)
> 2x Custom build folded horn subwoofers
> 
> Bedroom Theater:
> 2x Magnepan MMGW (LR)
> 2x Klipsch RB-51 (Surround)
> 1x Custom 15" sealed subwoofer with a Dayton Audio Reference driver
> 
> Computer Speakers:
> 2x Dynaudio BM5A MkII


Got some pic

I'd like to see how you mounted the MMGW.


----------



## TheNegotiator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Got some pic
> 
> I'd like to see how you mounted the MMGW.


Here's a few of the MMGW's and the theater room. My dSLR isn't working, so I had to use the crappy cell camera.


Spoiler: Pictures


----------



## TheMrnerdgeek

Denon AVR-800, Audiosource VS One center channel 50W RMS, RCA RS2044 speakers 50W RMS each. 150W total.


----------



## Xyro TR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmgunn*
> 
> Here's a few of the MMGW's and the theater room. My dSLR isn't working, so I had to use the crappy cell camera.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pictures


This HT setup is beautiful.







LOVE the lighting.


----------



## TheNegotiator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xyro TR1*
> 
> This HT setup is beautiful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOVE the lighting.


Thanks!


----------



## Tsar

Hi all,

I am normally a headphone club member but I need some cable advice.

I am seconds away from buying some new speakers: Celestion 3's

which are connected to my H/K AVR135

But I need some speaker cable, I am looking at this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/120978231474

Will this do? And will it sound good?

Thanks.


----------



## givmedew

I don't know what gauge that is but yes it should be fine. I don't want to start a speaker cable war but IMO there is very little that speaker wire is going to do for most speakers. Take a look at the wires inside your speakers and you will know what I mean.

I believe that is solid core wire which is not a bad thing but may not be very flexible. Don't make that a reason not to purchase it unless that is going to be some major issue with running it.

Keep your runs short the shorter the better. I have a lot of custom cables and IMO you are just choosing different colorations of the sound. The speaker cable is probably the last thing I would dump money into. Speakers, amps, sources, signal cable, not necessarily in that order but those all come before speaker cable.

Hope that helps... of course others will have the exact opposite opinion but I have sold a lot of very expensive cables, make custom cables (used to sell them), won a pair of $700 8FT cables at a training and have to me the cables are important yes but not in a way that you need to spend gross amount of money on them.


----------



## bobfig

i agree with above just get some decent roll of 16awg wire should be good for most up to 100 watts if not more.


----------



## Tsar

Hello,

So my speakers just arrived and one of the tweeters has a very small indent in it, it is around 1/4 of a inch long and less than a 1 mm in depth.

I tried to remove it using tape and by pushing them from behind which made alot of difference,

Will this effect the sound quality? I do hope not as they were a very good price.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tsar*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> So my speakers just arrived and one of the tweeters has a very small indent in it, it is around 1/4 of a inch long and less than a 1 mm in depth.
> 
> I tried to remove it using tape and by pushing them from behind which made alot of difference,
> 
> Will this effect the sound quality? I do hope not as they were a very good price.


The effect should not be major or noticeable to most.

Read some of this... depending on the tweeter size and material some of the ideas of how to pull it out are useful; http://www.gearslutz.com/board/so-much-gear-so-little-time/702826-dent-tweeter-domes-affect-sound-lot.html

If the speakers are new I would be throwing a fit right now. If the speakers are used... I would be fairly upset if this flaw was not listed in the sale advert.

Either way I would be quite upset. My wife put a usb cable on top of a $3000 pair of speakers and the tweeter sucked up the end of the USB cable from the magnet and absolutely smashed the tweeter. The most noticeable difference seemed to be in the imaging department. But my tweeter was badly damaged. Lesson learned don't run my speakers without the speaker grilles because no matter how many times I tell my wife not to put things on top... she does.

I ordered a replacement tweeter. It wasn't cheap but it put my mind at ease. Who knows there might not have been any difference at all but I believed that I could perceive a difference.

Again though what I perceived to be different was only in imaging... If you don't have the scenario to produce a strong image or if there isn't a lot of damage I doubt it will make much of a difference.


----------



## Tsar

They are second hand and very old, 1983 old.

I have mainly fixed the problem but there is still a dent but from what I have heard they sound amazing to my ears so I don't think they have changed tones.

Also I only got them for £27 and I just got £8 as it wasn't mentioned in the description, I don't think I will be able to get a replacement pair so I will keep them.

Thanks.


----------



## Diablosbud

I would like to join







.

Left and right speakers are Paradigm Mini Monitor v.5's from 2009.


Center is a vintage Paradigm 3SE, could use a re-foaming but for the moment a little silicon on tiny tears in the surround works. From sometime in the 80's.


Sub-woofer is an Energy ESW-C8 purchased recently.


This is all powered by my Pioneer VSX-822 in stereo extension mode so stereo input reaches the center channel. It doesn't work extremely well, but adds some additional focus to vocals and prevents instruments in the middle of the sound stage from sounding congested. The receiver input is analogue line-in from my Audioquest Dragonfly.

Edit: I don't know why these uploaded sideways








.


----------



## Sazexa

Hey everyone. I'm looking for a good quality DAC. Price isn't that much of an issue, I'd say around $600 or less is fair. Here's what I need:


6.5mm headphone out
RCA/Analog out
At least one volume control knob
Inputs via USB and optical audio
Lower latencys/audio processing time if possible, as I will also be using it while gaming.
So far, I'm thinking about getting the ASUS Xonar Essence One. It fits my needs perfectly, is within budget, and from what I've heard, is a pretty decent deal at the price. Also, size of the DAC isn't really important.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

So you are looking for a DAC/amp?

If so, I recommend the following Yulong D100 MKII


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> I would like to join
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Left and right speakers are Paradigm Mini Monitor v.5's from 2009.
> 
> 
> Center is a vintage Paradigm 3SE, could use a re-foaming but for the moment a little silicon on tiny tears in the surround works. From sometime in the 80's.
> 
> 
> Sub-woofer is an Energy ESW-C8 purchased recently.
> 
> 
> This is all powered by my Pioneer VSX-822 in stereo extension mode so stereo input reaches the center channel. It doesn't work extremely well, but adds some additional focus to vocals and prevents instruments in the middle of the sound stage from sounding congested. The receiver input is analogue line-in from my Audioquest Dragonfly.
> 
> Edit: *I don't know why these uploaded sideways*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It happens if your camera embeds rotation data in the file. I know it's not fun having to do this every time, but you can first rotate the picture 90 degrees (Windows picture viewer works for this), close and re-open it, and then rotate it back. That removes the data and sets it in the correct orientation.


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> It happens if your camera embeds rotation data in the file. I know it's not fun having to do this every time, but you can first rotate the picture 90 degrees (Windows picture viewer works for this), close and re-open it, and then rotate it back. That removes the data and sets it in the correct orientation.


It was up-right in Windows though







. It may have been because I uploaded it in the medium size and it rotated the photo to fit it in those dimensions.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> So you are looking for a DAC/amp?
> 
> If so, I recommend the following Yulong D100 MKII


I don't even think it needs to be an amp, just fit 6.5mm
That one doesn't look so bad.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> It was up-right in Windows though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It may have been because I uploaded it in the medium size and it rotated the photo to fit it in those dimensions.


Windows auto-rotates the picture based on the embedded data, but ocn doesn't. By manually rotating it you remove that data, so it shows the same orientation in Windows and on ocn.


----------



## Blindsay

so apparently i am a noob, i did the popular woofer upgrade on my polk lsi15's and when i put the new woofers in i forgot to remove the giant rubber gasket that the new woofers come with which prevented the woofers from flush mounting into the cabinet as they should, thus not making an air tight seal.

Fixed that and it sounds sooo much better now. Really happy with the Lsi series expecial considering i got the 5 piece set with the crossover and woofer upgrades for $2100 (the crossovers were about $600 iirc)


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> Windows auto-rotates the picture based on the embedded data, but ocn doesn't. By manually rotating it you remove that data, so it shows the same orientation in Windows and on ocn.


I understand now, thanks. It's too bad that things can't be universal, but when is it ever with technology







.


----------



## scottath

Hey guys,

Like to join this club, hadn't thought of getting into this one although im in it on other forums.
Current setup is listed below, along with a question









Work just got a set of Yamaha HS80M speakers for the recording booth, and has got my thoughts on my setup again.

Current setup:
Xonar D2X
Shure SRH-440 headphones
Swan D1080 08 mk 2 speakers.

After hearing the Yamaha's again (friend has a set too) I'm looking at putting my 1080s as my parents TV speakers and upgrading mine again. I've auditioned some if the other 'HiFi' Swan speakers when I got the 1080s like the T200s but wondering if there is another option also.

Room is ~3*4m, will be setting them on either side of 3 24" screens so fairly wide apart. Considering a Sub also, but I know the hs80s can provide sufficient in that area too.

Thinking $1k or so at Max (ATM) (600ish would be better) and size wise a footprint not much larger than the 1080s is needed.
This is a thought for me ATM, and if you think there won't be a huge advantage I'm happy to sit with what I have + a sub or something too.
Considering atm the Swans M200 Mk III - and probably looking at a sub also (of which i have no further thoughts other than a Audioengine S8).
For these powered speakers im assuming the D2X's output is generally going to be sufficient ?
Happy to hear (hehe :/) suggestions.

Thanks.


----------



## ZombieJon

Has anybody here tried the Lepai LP7498E?


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottath*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Like to join this club, hadn't thought of getting into this one although im in it on other forums.
> Current setup is listed below, along with a question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Work just got a set of Yamaha HS80M speakers for the recording booth, and has got my thoughts on my setup again.
> 
> Current setup:
> Xonar D2X
> Shure SRH-440 headphones
> Swan D1080 08 mk 2 speakers.
> 
> After hearing the Yamaha's again (friend has a set too) I'm looking at putting my 1080s as my parents TV speakers and upgrading mine again. I've auditioned some if the other 'HiFi' Swan speakers when I got the 1080s like the T200s but wondering if there is another option also.
> 
> Room is ~3*4m, will be setting them on either side of 3 24" screens so fairly wide apart. Considering a Sub also, but I know the hs80s can provide sufficient in that area too.
> 
> Thinking $1k or so at Max (ATM) (600ish would be better) and size wise a footprint not much larger than the 1080s is needed.
> This is a thought for me ATM, and if you think there won't be a huge advantage I'm happy to sit with what I have + a sub or something too.
> Considering atm the Swans M200 Mk III - and probably looking at a sub also (of which i have no further thoughts other than a Audioengine S8).
> For these powered speakers im assuming the D2X's output is generally going to be sufficient ?
> Happy to hear (hehe :/) suggestions.
> 
> Thanks.


Skip on swans unless you have a sweet subwoofer. Upgrade D2X for a receiver or DAC. Get rid of the 440s, they're actually really quite poor..even for their price range.

Then you need a budget, have to tell us what kind of music you listen to, etc.. If you want headphones, tell us why, price range, etc..


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Skip on swans unless you have a sweet subwoofer. Upgrade D2X for a receiver or DAC. Get rid of the 440s, they're actually really quite poor..even for their price range.
> 
> Then you need a budget, have to tell us what kind of music you listen to, etc.. If you want headphones, tell us why, price range, etc..


But the Swans are so pretty and they do sound pretty good. I miss mine sometimes. Then I remember I have my KEFs.

He did post a price range. Any places in particular where you wanted to purchase your equipment? I know Swans stuff is cheaper in Australia due to Swans being a Chinese company.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

I really like my Swans M200 MKIII personally.

Hey if you guys have time, can you check out this thread and provide feedback?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1425264/a-more-interactive-and-unified-club-experience


----------



## scottath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Skip on swans unless you have a sweet subwoofer. Upgrade D2X for a receiver or DAC. Get rid of the 440s, they're actually really quite poor..even for their price range.
> 
> Then you need a budget, have to tell us what kind of music you listen to, etc.. If you want headphones, tell us why, price range, etc..


Yea - $600-1000 $AUD
Music i listen too is generally commercial radio (so i guess pop), and 'contemporary' religious music (Hillsong style).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> But the Swans are so pretty and they do sound pretty good. I miss mine sometimes. Then I remember I have my KEFs.
> 
> He did post a price range. Any places in particular where you wanted to purchase your equipment? I know Swans stuff is cheaper in Australia due to Swans being a Chinese company.


These guys are around the corner for me (well the distributor is and gives me the same sort of prices) - http://www.myav.com.au/epages/mymy7204.sf
Else anywhere Australian really.

Budget could stretch a bit for say the m200mk3 + a sub - but i also have another dell ultrasharp to buy so its going to be a bit of a big month if i do do both at once.....


----------



## madeinusatv

yeah,this particular set is directly meant for pc's, which makes it sort of sit in between the lines.


----------



## hatrix216

Just decided to go a little SPL crazy and for some super punchy bass in my room.



The cherry towers only have the 12" woofers working, so they are being powered by a car audio amp with a low pass around 85hz. The 8" sub under my desk is powered by the same amp (2 channel). Both 4 ohm loads. Oh and the black speakers on top of the cherry towers need driver replacements and are just for show.

My studio monitors are powered, run straight from the mixer. Mixer also outs to the car amp and the Sony receiver in the middle desk. That receiver powers the black floorstanding speakers, full range. EQed to be super punchy with some treble EQed out also as the horns are pretty harsh when loud. These are the main source of the overall SPL in mids and highs. My studio monitors balance out their sub par sound.

So that's 11 woofers total, not counting tweeters lol. Since the cherry towers are only seeing sub frequencies their placement isn't that crucial. If just playing sine notes to test the bass response, you can tell at certain frequencies there's more bass coming from the left. But during normal music playback it's not really noticeable.

All I can say is it is SUPER loud and veryyyyy punchy on the bass. The bass get's very loud. Not as loud as my jeep's 18" or anything, but still enough to shake the house a lot. I want to get the bass response more complete in my listening position, as it starts to drop off around 35-40hz, though still plenty loud. More to do with room acoustics and speaker placement than driver capability.

Yes cables are visible, this is because it was all just a test but I'm really liking it so far. Very fun listening.

Oh and I got a new mixer, Behringer Eurorack MX2642A, 24 input 4 bus mixer.


----------



## Sparocool

Does this count?

Philips SE - 1 x2 (centre)
MoS (rear)
Panasonic SB - ZT20 (left &right)

running on a Yamaha DSP - E492

EDIT: and a Philips AMP


----------



## renekluitenberg

Currently I have a pair of Bowers & Wilkins 685's running on a Rotel RA-02.

Moving to a new house next month and will be investing in a new setup.


----------



## givmedew

https://www.nuforce.com/index.php?option=com_k2&view=item&id=306:dda-100&Itemid=962

Anyone have one of these or had the chance to play with one? I am thinking about replacing my DAC and huge B+K separate amp with just this... My only issue is lack of headphone compatibility but that isn't a huge issue for me... I can handle plugging into the sound card for those once in a while situation...


----------



## hertz9753

Is that a class T? You should buy it and let me test it. I have wondered what the good one's can do.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Is that a class T? You should buy it and let me test it. I have wondered what the good one's can do.


Should be Class D. "Class T" only applies to ones that use the Tripath chipset, but even then Tripath amps are class D.

I didn't know NuForce came out with newer stuff. Looks stunning and with a remote. My only problem is the lack of sub out, but that's not a big deal.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> Should be Class D. "Class T" only applies to ones that use the Tripath chipset, but even then Tripath amps are class D.
> 
> I didn't know NuForce came out with newer stuff. Looks stunning and with a remote. My only problem is the lack of sub out, but that's not a big deal.


Like peachtree audio? I would love to get my ears on one of those.


----------



## scottath

Hey guys,
I made a thread on head-fi last week (http://www.head-fi.org/t/680993/new-bookshelf-computer-setup-suggestions) in regards to looking to upgrade my speaker setup for my desktop. After a bit of chatting on there ive come to a three-way decision and im not getting anywhere.

So i thought id ask you lovely folk here on ocn too.

Current setup:
Xonar D2X
Shure SRH-440 headphones
Swan D1080 08 mk 2 speakers + (at times borrowing from HT) Yamaha HTiB sub

Room is ~3*4m, will be setting them on either side of 24"|27"|24" screens or a single 27" with the 2 24"s on either side.
Thinking $1k (Australian) or so at Max (ATM) (600ish would be better) and size wise a footprint not much larger than the 1080s is needed.

So now have a few options:
1) Buy another sub (so im not stealing the HTiB one all the time).
2) Speakers and keep taking the sub (if still needed). (Looking at Swan M200mkIII / Swan T200B/T200C / M-Audio M3-8 / Happy to entertain other ideas)
3) Keep borrowing the sub and put money into headphones and/or DAC/Amp for them.

Cheers guys.


----------



## aksthem1

Do you want active speakers or would you be willing to do an amp and passive speakers? Would give more modularity if you want to upgrade later on.


----------



## scottath

i have entertained that idea, but i think that any upgrade from this would be more of a HT setup once i buy my own house, and thus multi channel and ill probably start again from scratch.
Im not against that sort of a setup, im just looking for something easy to do. Also being in Australia, makes thats all that more painful to source at times.

I borrowed some B&W DM601 S3 from work and used an old Sharp amp i had at home, and it was more of a side-grade than an upgrade - with those speakers at the least.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottath*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I made a thread on head-fi last week (http://www.head-fi.org/t/680993/new-bookshelf-computer-setup-suggestions) in regards to looking to upgrade my speaker setup for my desktop. After a bit of chatting on there ive come to a three-way decision and im not getting anywhere.
> 
> So i thought id ask you lovely folk here on ocn too.
> 
> Current setup:
> Xonar D2X
> Shure SRH-440 headphones
> Swan D1080 08 mk 2 speakers + (at times borrowing from HT) Yamaha HTiB sub
> 
> Room is ~3*4m, will be setting them on either side of 24"|27"|24" screens or a single 27" with the 2 24"s on either side.
> Thinking $1k (Australian) or so at Max (ATM) (600ish would be better) and size wise a footprint not much larger than the 1080s is needed.
> 
> So now have a few options:
> 1) Buy another sub (so im not stealing the HTiB one all the time).
> 2) Speakers and keep taking the sub (if still needed). (Looking at Swan M200mkIII / Swan T200B/T200C / M-Audio M3-8 / Happy to entertain other ideas)
> 3) Keep borrowing the sub and put money into headphones and/or DAC/Amp for them.
> 
> Cheers guys.


Musical preference?


----------



## scottath

Whoops, left that out.
Varies a fair bit, but mostly alternative/pop style, Fair bit of contemporary Christian music too (Hillsong, Dave Crowder band, Casting Crowns), Then U2, Coldplay, Michael Jackson etc


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottath*
> 
> Whoops, left that out.
> Varies a fair bit, but mostly alternative/pop style, Fair bit of contemporary Christian music too (Hillsong, Dave Crowder band, Casting Crowns), Then U2, Coldplay, Michael Jackson etc


Do you have any access to klipisch stuff? You might also want to see if you can't find used audio note speakers in your price range.


----------



## scottath

The only things i know i have access too audition is what i have at work (Yamaha HS-80), and there is a local distributor for Swan Speakers. Ill have to look around for places to audition anything else.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottath*
> 
> The only things i know i have access too audition is what i have at work (Yamaha HS-80), and there is a local distributor for Swan Speakers. Ill have to look around for places to audition anything else.


Yeah please do so. Swan and Yamaha is good, but that is too limited of an exposure to make an informed decision about what you should upgrade to.

Here is a couple of distributors who have really nice speakers.

Synthesis is probably one of my favorite affordable modern speakers. They can be a bit tricky to set up right, but they have satisfying bass without the need of an extra subwoofer. IDK what the pricing is like in AUS. Here it is about 1.2K to get into a good set of speakers.

AUSTRALIA

AUDIO DYNAMICS PTY. LTD
167 Camberwell Rd.
3123 Hawthorn East 3123
VIC - AUSTRALIA
Tel +61 398820372
Fax +61 39882 9878
www.audiodynamics.com
[email protected]

Audio note is very expensive, but it is very good. It would be the kind of speaker that you might find your "perfect speaker" and have to save up for it.

Finn Bespoke Technology Pty Ltd
38 Holborow St
Croydon, NSW 2132
AUSTRALIA
Mr Bryan Fletcher
Ms Catherine O'Keefe
[email protected]
www.audionote.com.au

Klipisch is not as good as the two mentioned above......by quite a bit. But, you get a much better bag for the buck ratio. They still sound good, and you can easily afford a nice set of speakers.

Edge Digital Technology Image & Sound Technol
5/12 Viewtech Place
Rowville, NS 03178 Phone: (6139) 755-7377
Fax: (6139) 755-7356
Website: www.atlab.com.au
Get DirectionsCarries:
Pro
POWERMOVE DISTRIBUTION PTY LTD
28 The Gateway
Broadmeadows, VI 03047 Phone: (03) 9358 5999
Email: [email protected]
Fax: (03) 9357 5999
Website: www.powermove.com.au
Get DirectionsCarries:
In The Home
On The Go
Palladium


----------



## scottath

Hey, thanks for the links,
The Audio-note store is the only one in the same state as me, and its about an hours drive from home for me. (Im in southern Sydney) Ill see if i can visit it at some stage soon.
$1k (~$950 USD atm) is about the max i want to spend atm - A deposit on a house/unit is the current saving goal, and anything im spending eats into that.
Ill have a look into other places where i might be able to audition gear on the weekend, got a stack of uni work to be done also.
Is there any other brands/models i should be looking out for on gumtree/ebay etc for second hand gear?


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottath*
> 
> Hey, thanks for the links,
> The Audio-note store is the only one in the same state as me, and its about an hours drive from home for me. (Im in southern Sydney) Ill see if i can visit it at some stage soon.
> $1k (~$950 USD atm) is about the max i want to spend atm - A deposit on a house/unit is the current saving goal, and anything im spending eats into that.
> Ill have a look into other places where i might be able to audition gear on the weekend, got a stack of uni work to be done also.
> Is there any other brands/models i should be looking out for on gumtree/ebay etc for second hand gear?


Quite honestly

House>Audio.

You want to save up every penny for your home. When you get a house, you never know what kind of problems it has. If it is an apartment, expect to be hit with stupid random fees, and if it is a home, expect to do some major repairs or remodeling.

Find a pace that has a good room for audio to begin with. I have a great audio system that sounds like dog poop because I am in a crappy dorm.

Maybe when you have your own place, and your own audio room, your speakers will sound better.


----------



## scottath

Yea, i know that its a wiser spend. Thats why im looking for a *once for a while* spend that'll serve me well for a good few years.
I couldnt ever justify a listening room, and the speakers will (in the future) still be used at my computer or as apart of a HT setup. It'd be this time next year at the earliest for the deposit anyhow, im in a rather expensive area (Sydney.....most of its expensive now - $AUD400k+ average)


----------



## Simca

Trying to locate Monitor Audio RX2's online is a problem for some reason..Might go with the KEF Q300s if I can't find the MA RX2s online for a good price soon.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottath*
> 
> Yea, i know that its a wiser spend. Thats why im looking for a *once for a while* spend that'll serve me well for a good few years.
> I couldnt ever justify a listening room, and the speakers will (in the future) still be used at my computer or as apart of a HT setup. It'd be this time next year at the earliest for the deposit anyhow, im in a rather expensive area (Sydney.....most of its expensive now - $AUD400k+ average)


If you are in an apartment, then yes, a listening room is probably a pointless gesture.

But here is how you justify it for a house.

If you were looking at getting a house with 2 bedrooms, but because you saved your money and was able to get a house with a 3rd bedroom, then turn it into a listening room/utility room (IDK what you want to call it).

Later, when housing markets go up, you will be selling a 3 bedroom home vs a 2 bedroom home. The 3 bedrooms will be worth more on an open market, and it could potentially sell faster.

You CAN have your cake and eat it too.

If you still want speakers......it is really up to you. There are so many options for 1K, that I think you are already on the right track of testing different speakers. If you could ever hunt it down, the snell j III speaker was used as sort of a stock prototype for one of the speakers for audionote. I have seem them ONCE in the US for 400 bucks. As a stock speaker, they sound amazing. Alternatively you can mod them by putting some wood filler on the inside of the cabinet and modding the port size to be a bit smaller. This will make them more like the audio note speakers for cheap.


----------



## JKuhn

I just bought a new amp (the TEK apparently has a damaged final stage and it's not worth repairing), but now I'm struggling with distorted sound (on the new amp, one I bought and returned for that very reason, and an old TEAC BX-330) which wasn't a problem on the TEK. I'll post some pictures and more details once it's sorted out. The strange thing is that I tested the new amp (or at least the same model) in-store with my own source, cables and speakers and I didn't notice anything.


----------



## JKuhn

I couldn't get the new amp to work with any of my speakers, so now I bought a pair of Alesis Elevate 3 monitors. But I'll also have to replace them, because the power socket is faulty. Just my luck.


----------



## scottath

After 3 weeks of resisting, i went to the local distributer and auditioned a set of speakers:

Swan:
D1080 mk4 (i have the mk2 already)
H4
H5
M200mkIII
T200B

I was surprised by just how good the M200s were, ever (to me) better than the much more expencive H5s.
However once we plugged in the T200B there was no competition any longer.
I was using a switchbox, so switching speakers at the press of a button and the T200s blew the others away, even the euqally priced H5s
I then got the card out and left with a set of T200Bs
They are a work of art too, and quite large and imposing.



Spending done again for a while








Thanks for the pointers a few weeks back, but the ease of an active system, and being able to audition a broad range of the swan speakers at once won me over.


----------



## Mudfrog

I'll join.. Old pics but they'll do.

HTPC - Polk Audio Monitor 70's, CS2, Monitor 30's, BIC F12 - Onkyo 809

Gaming PC - Polk Audio Monitor 30's, Dayton Audio 10" Sub - Dayton Audio DTA-100A

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/mudfrog/media/HT-setup.jpg.html


----------



## aksthem1

Congrats on the purchase. Glad you like them. I miss my M200s sometimes.


----------



## BoredErica

Hello friends,

These are two KRK Rokit 6 G2s I got for $255 total (after tax and shipping). Although, I do wish I got KRK Rokit 5 G3s instead. They seem to have a better frequency response, even on the low end.


----------



## freitz

I am looking for some speakers

I was looking into these
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=electronics&field-keywords=audioengine&tag=viglink121874-20

Currently I have AKG k550's and Schiit Magni headphone amp with Creative titanium Xfi HD... If I go for those speakers what else would be recommended?


----------



## phillyd

I want to know what you guys would think is the best sub to pair up with AudioEngine A5+ speakers.. I'll be running them off of an Audioengine D1.

I listen to a wide variety of music and you might call me a basshead (I EQ bass up with DT770 pros). I listen to rap, metal, rock, and much more.

I can get Klipsch products very cheaply, (A KW-100 would be about $100) but if there is a better option then I'd love to hear it. I would need a way to eliminate bass crossover for the speakers too. I could spend $150+ but the cheaper the better. But I will not sacrifice on quality. I have Promedia 2.1's and I want to improve on the bass depth and clarity as well as volume from those.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Midnite8

I am interested in Mackie MR5s and Equator D5. Anyone here have either? There is a Mackie MR5 MK2 and MK3, not sure if there is a big difference between the two generations.


----------



## hatrix216

I run a pair of Mackie MR5 MK2s. They are great monitors for the money. I use a FiiO E17 as my DAC with a line out to a 24 channel/4 bus mixer which then uses the control room out to the monitors.

I'm also running a sub with them though, they need one if you really want the lows.


----------



## JKuhn

My replacement Elevate 3 monitors finally came. Now I just have to break them in. I'll try to post pictures this weekend.


----------



## JKuhn

Just my luck.









I moved my new monitors and when I moved them back the power connector somehow broke. It's the same problem as last time, but I didn't unplug the cable from the speakers, and I also didn't put any strain on the cable while moving it.

How's the "Samson MediaOne 3A" and the "Samson Media One 4A"? It seems I have no choice but to order online, even though I do my best to avoid that.


----------



## Simca

You guys any good with receivers? I'm considering upgrading my Denon AVR-1912 to a Marantz SR6007, but I'm not sure how large of an improvement SQ wise it'd be. I'd probably better suited getting a separate DAC and dedicated speaker amp, but wanted to run the question by you guys, see if any of you had experience with the two or had moved from Denon to Marantz and had some exp.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> You guys any good with receivers? I'm considering upgrading my Denon AVR-1912 to a Marantz SR6007, but I'm not sure how large of an improvement SQ wise it'd be. I'd probably better suited getting a separate DAC and dedicated speaker amp, but wanted to run the question by you guys, see if any of you had experience with the two or had moved from Denon to Marantz and had some exp.


dedicated separates are the way to go. I previously owned the Marantz SR6004 and Denon AVR-1611 in my home theater but I only used them to decode audio and HDMI switching. I had them both connected to a Emotiva XPA-5 power amplifier and DVDO Edge video processor. receivers are value propositions like sound cards.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> You guys any good with receivers? I'm considering upgrading my Denon AVR-1912 to a Marantz SR6007, but I'm not sure how large of an improvement SQ wise it'd be. I'd probably better suited getting a separate DAC and dedicated speaker amp, but wanted to run the question by you guys, see if any of you had experience with the two or had moved from Denon to Marantz and had some exp.


Dedicated amp and DAC for sure. The Marantz isn't a slouch, but you will benefit from dedicated ones. What speakers are you using now?


----------



## Simca

Christmas time will be buying the KEF Q300s for sure.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Christmas time will be buying the KEF Q300s for sure.


Nice. I love my KEFs and while I'm satisfied with my current setup. Those Q300s are very tempting, but I'll wait if Virtue Audio ever makes new amps.


----------



## Ecchi-BANZAII!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecchi-BANZAII!!!*
> 
> I have some speakers from the old age in my room...
> 
> Fisher F4/255 Mk.II


----------



## bumblebee1980

I thought about buying my dad the KEF LS50 but I couldn't convince my brothers to kick in. I think there are better speakers for $700. Epos discontinued their Epic line this year. you might be able to find a pair of Epic 2.

DIY I think is the best way to go.

there are a bunch of companies that sell kits with Seas drivers.

http://www.selahaudio.com/id268.html


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> I thought about buying my dad the KEF LS50 but I couldn't convince my brothers to kick in. I think there are better speakers for $700. Epos discontinued their Epic line this year. you might be able to find a pair of Epic 2.
> 
> DIY I think is the best way to go.
> 
> there are a bunch of companies that sell kits with Seas drivers.
> 
> http://www.selahaudio.com/id268.html


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-VINTAGE-ALTEC-LANSING-MODEL-755E-8-SPEAKERS-/251378049034?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3a874ca00a

get a nice heavy wooden panel made out of mahogany or something and cut the holes for the driver and stick them in there.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-VINTAGE-ALTEC-LANSING-MODEL-755E-8-SPEAKERS-/251378049034?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item3a874ca00a
> 
> get a nice heavy wooden panel made out of mahogany or something and cut the holes for the driver and stick them in there.


I don't buy used drivers or speakers. i'm not an acoustic engineer either. all those kits Selah sell have engineering put into them.


----------



## Mudfrog

Just moved so thought I'd post up some new pics.

[IMG alt="47" Vizio 120hz 1080p SV470XVT HTPC - Blu-Ray / Movies / Gaming Xbox 360 Roku 3 Pioneer BDP-150 Blu-Ray Onkyo TX-NR809 Polk Audio CS2 Polk Audio Monitor 70&#039;s Polk Audio Monitor 30&#039;s BIC F12 Whallen Gaming TV Stand"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1774462/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/IMG]

[IMG alt="Updated PC pics. Speakers: Polk Audio Monitor 30 Amp: Dayton DTA-100A Sub: Dayton 10" Sub Gaming PC: CPU: I5 2500K @ 4.5 Mobo: Gigabyte Z68X-UD4-B3 Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600 GPU: Gigabyte 670 Windforce 2GB Storage: Kingston HyperX 128GB SSD; 2x WD Black 750GB RAID 0; 1TB WD External; 256GB WD External Sound Card: Asus Xonar DG CPU Cooling: H50 w/ P/P Blademasters Case: HAF 932 Advance PSU: CoolerMaster V700 Monitor: 25" Asus 1080p Keyboard: Logitech G15 Mouse: Logitech G500 Headphones: Sennheiser HD439 Controller: Wired 360 Controller"]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1774450/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/IMG]


----------



## [CyGnus]

Mudfrog very nice build there what speakers are those?


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> Mudfrog very nice build there what speakers are those?


The Home Theater is using Polk Audio Monitor 70's, CS2, Monitor 30's and a BIC F-12. The PC is using Monitor 30's and a Dayton Sub.

I'm getting ready to start upgrading my Home Theater, they sound great but it's an addiction to always have better.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mudfrog*
> 
> The Home Theater is using Polk Audio Monitor 70's, CS2, Monitor 30's and a BIC F-12. The PC is using Monitor 30's and a Dayton Sub.
> 
> I'm getting ready to start upgrading my Home Theater, they sound great but it's an addiction to always have better.


Nice, I had the 70s, CS2 and the 40s myself before I upgraded to the LSi15's, LSiC, LSi7s


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Nice, I had the 70s, CS2 and the 40s myself before I upgraded to the LSi15's, LSiC, LSi7s


Very nice.. a little out of my price range, I'm jealous. I'm leaning towards the RTi series for when I finally dive into 7.1. My next two upgrades will be the TV and sub. Really leaning towards the SVS PB12-NSD.


----------



## Blindsay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mudfrog*
> 
> Very nice.. a little out of my price range, I'm jealous. I'm leaning towards the RTi series for when I finally dive into 7.1. My next two upgrades will be the TV and sub. Really leaning towards the SVS PB12-NSD.


the LSiM's are big bucks, but if you hunt around you can get a deal on the previous Lsi series which is what I did. got the LSi 15's for $800


----------



## bumblebee1980

SVS makes really good subs. Newegg is a licensed Polk reseller and often has sales. shoot me a message when you are ready to upgrade and I will give you a better recommendation.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Look what Santa got me for Christmas!


----------



## bumblebee1980

Santa should message me next time


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> Santa should message me next time


Santa found them on Craigslist as a pair for $150. :3


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mudfrog*
> 
> The Home Theater is using Polk Audio Monitor 70's, CS2, Monitor 30's and a BIC F-12. The PC is using Monitor 30's and a Dayton Sub.
> 
> I'm getting ready to start upgrading my Home Theater, they sound great but it's an addiction to always have better.


I remember when your deal fell through with Tiger.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindsay*
> 
> Nice, I had the 70s, CS2 and the 40s myself before I upgraded to the LSi15's, LSiC, LSi7s


I still have my Monitor 70's and CS2 in my bedroom.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> Look what Santa got me for Christmas!


Polk Audio R 50's. I still have mine in another room, The cabinets on those are better than the Monitor 70's.








I will leave now.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

If I don't plan on getting surround, is a center channel worth getting?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> If I don't plan on getting surround, is a center channel worth getting?


What will you be using to power the speakers?


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> What will you be using to power the speakers?


Old Yamaha 5.1 receiver


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> I remember when your deal fell through with Tiger


Yep, Tiger pissed me off. Although I don't think I would have been happy with that setup so ultimately it worked out for the best. I'm happy with the monitors but I'd like to get something a little better.

My upgrade path will be:

Tv > SVS Subwoofer > Emotiva XP-5 > Panamax M5400-PM > Speakers (Probably Polk RTi series)


----------



## OC'ing Noob

So would it be worth it for me to get a center channel if I have no interest in surrounds?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mudfrog*
> 
> Yep, Tiger pissed me off. Although I don't think I would have been happy with that setup so ultimately it worked out for the best. I'm happy with the monitors but I'd like to get something a little better.
> 
> My upgrade path will be:
> 
> Tv > SVS Subwoofer > Emotiva XP-5 > Panamax M5400-PM > Speakers (Probably Polk RTi series)


I was going to buy a SVS sub but I got the Velodyne 1000R shipped from Canada for $450 on ebay. The seller was not happy. The RTi's are great for movies, They are to bright for music IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> So would it be worth it for me to get a center channel if I have no interest in surrounds?


For me it would be worth it. The center channel makes panning from left to right speakers better and gives you the vocals in a movie front and center. Make sure you get one that matches your other speakers, preferably from the same line.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> For me it would be worth it. The center channel makes panning from left to right speakers better and gives you the vocals in a movie front and center. Make sure you get one that matches your other speakers, preferably from the same line.


Ok thanks! +REP


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> I was going to buy a SVS sub but I got the Velodyne 1000R shipped from Canada for $450 on ebay. The seller was not happy. The RTi's are great for movies, They are to bright for music IMO.


My HT is 95% movies and TV, 5% music so being a little bright wouldn't be a huge deal. Did you notice a big difference between the rti's and monitor's?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mudfrog*
> 
> My HT is 95% movies and TV, 5% music so being a little bright wouldn't be a huge deal. Did you notice a big difference between the rti's and monitor's?


Yes. The detail and clarity was better as was the bass. But ear fatigue was high. I used to have these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RTi12-BLACK-Floorstanding-Loudspeakers-Polk-Audio-NEW-PAIR-/390719207388?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item5af8adf7dc#ht_4282wt_1124

Your upgrade path is good. Polk Monitors don't require alot of power to sound good, but they really wake up when you give them more.

If I upgraded again and stayed with polk I would go with these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LSiM703-Mt-Vernon-CHERRY-Bookshelf-Rear-Speaker-Polk-Audio-EACH-/360690659359?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item53fad6b01f#ht_0wt_0

My Polk LSi9's after modded crossovers weigh over 34 pounds each now. I forgot your question.


----------



## saer

Hi guys,

First time posting in this section









Just looking for some advice on 2.0 setup for my computer. For the past 4-5 years I've been using a Klipsch Promedia 2.1 setup, I upgraded the satellites to Klipsch RSX-4s and have been very happy with them since.

Got the upgrade itch to try some 2.0 studio monitors, was thinking about M-Audio BX5 D2 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F3H6Q8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1Y4ZK4I23ZF92&coliid=I2IX0I3GD0HFVD coming from my X-Fi Titanium HD.

If I did get these, how would I connect them to my soundcard ?

They seem like a great pair for the $160 pricetag, should I be considering anything else around the $200 range ?

Thanks


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> So would it be worth it for me to get a center channel if I have no interest in surrounds?


why wouldn't you want surrounds?


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> why wouldn't you want surrounds?


- Space considerations
- People keep knocking them over at my old place


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> - Space considerations
> - People keep knocking them over at my old place


surround channels don't need to be matched. even if your couch is up against a wall you shouldn't have any problems.










you can also wall mount them.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> surround channels don't need to be matched. even if your couch is up against a wall you shouldn't have any problems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can also wall mount them.


They still get knocked over too frequently. I would have to ceiling mount and I am too lazy to route speaker wires. LOL


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> First time posting in this section
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just looking for some advice on 2.0 setup for my computer. For the past 4-5 years I've been using a Klipsch Promedia 2.1 setup, I upgraded the satellites to Klipsch RSX-4s and have been very happy with them since.
> 
> Got the upgrade itch to try some 2.0 studio monitors, was thinking about M-Audio BX5 D2 http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F3H6Q8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1Y4ZK4I23ZF92&coliid=I2IX0I3GD0HFVD coming from my X-Fi Titanium HD.
> 
> If I did get these, how would I connect them to my soundcard ?
> 
> They seem like a great pair for the $160 pricetag, should I be considering anything else around the $200 range ?
> 
> Thanks


haaaaaalp


----------



## Simca

RCA


----------



## jellybeans69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> haaaaaalp


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cItpee4UMV4 @5:00-5:10 you can see it

They have 2x RCA -> 3.5mm cable with them simply plug in both cables in them and 3.5mm into your sound card.

Small edit too bad i don't see any listings of decent price for EDIFIER Studio 7/Microlab Solo 7C in amazon/newegg both should be around 200$ and are pretty good for their price. (Solo 6c are also decent but unless you can get them for 100-110$ don't bother)


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> haaaaaalp


Sound card > 3.5 mm to RCA cable > receiver/amplifier > speakers > ??? > profit!


----------



## jellybeans69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> Sound card > 3.5 mm to RCA cable > receiver/amplifier > speakers > ??? > profit!


Those look like active speakers given power cable/rca cable coming from them, no need for amp part here


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jellybeans69*
> 
> Those look like active speakers given power cable/rca cable coming from them, no need for amp part here


Didn't click on link so good catch! Could always use as preamp too probably.


----------



## astrallite

These babies are coming in the mail soon:


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *astrallite*
> 
> These babies are coming in the mail soon:


nice. my cousin has the Focus series.


----------



## Simca

Need to decide if having black speakers is worth spending another $70. Thoughts? :\

Went with Cherry for $70 less. I hope I don't regret it. Stomach already churning because everything I have is black.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Need to decide if having black speakers is worth spending another $70. Thoughts? :\
> 
> Went with Cherry for $70 less. I hope I don't regret it. Stomach already churning because everything I have is black.


imo not really sound is more important to me.


----------



## astrallite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Need to decide if having black speakers is worth spending another $70. Thoughts? :\
> 
> Went with Cherry for $70 less. I hope I don't regret it. Stomach already churning because everything I have is black.


Partsexpress sells rolls of vinyl wrap for like $10...


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Need to decide if having black speakers is worth spending another $70. Thoughts? :\
> 
> Went with Cherry for $70 less. I hope I don't regret it. Stomach already churning because everything I have is black.


Cherry is beautiful. My entire furniture set in my bedroom is black and cherry.


----------



## aksthem1

Should have gotten them in white Simca.


----------



## aksthem1

Double post, but for anybody wanting to jump on the passive speaker bandwagon, then MCM Electronics has Tripath amps for really cheap right now. Would be a good for entry level amps for speakers requiring a bit more power.

http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?cataf=&view=list&w=tripath&x=0&y=0


----------



## Simca

While the white KEF's look great if you have an all white Mac book looking set up, that scheme isn't for me. I'm really wondering if I made a huge mistake not getting them in black...but I guess at the end of the day it's about the sound and I saved $70 which is decently significant. Was hoping that it would at least be walnut or w/e, but it's Cherry...eugh.

Everything I have is black. Even my AT2020 that's coming in a few days is entire black.

I'd consider them being painted black, but I don't know who could do that for me and I wouldn't trust myself. I don't know anything about this vinyl wrap either for $10.


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> Double post, but for anybody wanting to jump on the passive speaker bandwagon, then MCM Electronics has Tripath amps for really cheap right now. Would be a good for entry level amps for speakers requiring a bit more power.
> 
> http://electronics.mcmelectronics.com/search?cataf=&view=list&w=tripath&x=0&y=0


Good deals there.. I love my Class T Dayton amp.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> While the white KEF's look great if you have an all white Mac book looking set up, that scheme isn't for me. I'm really wondering if I made a huge mistake not getting them in black...but I guess at the end of the day it's about the sound and I saved $70 which is decently significant. Was hoping that it would at least be walnut or w/e, but it's Cherry...eugh.
> 
> Everything I have is black. Even my AT2020 that's coming in a few days is entire black.
> 
> I'd consider them being painted black, but I don't know who could do that for me and I wouldn't trust myself. I don't know anything about this vinyl wrap either for $10.


How much did you end up paying for them? Vinyl is an option but some of them look really cheap due to the texture. Veneer would be a better option, but for the cost of it you would be better off just paying the extra $70.

I'd just leave them the way it is. It'll grow on you. Didn't quite like my Swans M200, but I ended up loving the looks of it.


----------



## astrallite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> While the white KEF's look great if you have an all white Mac book looking set up, that scheme isn't for me. I'm really wondering if I made a huge mistake not getting them in black...but I guess at the end of the day it's about the sound and I saved $70 which is decently significant. Was hoping that it would at least be walnut or w/e, but it's Cherry...eugh.
> 
> Everything I have is black. Even my AT2020 that's coming in a few days is entire black.
> 
> I'd consider them being painted black, but I don't know who could do that for me and I wouldn't trust myself. I don't know anything about this vinyl wrap either for $10.


The finish is already just a layer of vinyl on the KEFs, the stuff they sell on places like dayton audio/parts express is the same stuff basically.


----------



## Simca

Does it matter that I'm not a very handy person to begin with? I saw some carbon fibre vinyl wrap and that looked interesting for sure.

I ended up getting a sweet deal on them. $400 shipped.









But for $470 I could have gotten them in black.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Does it matter that I'm not a very handy person to begin with? I saw some carbon fibre vinyl wrap and that looked interesting for sure.
> 
> I ended up getting a sweet deal on them. $400 shipped.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But for $470 I could have gotten them in black.


It is like wrapping cellophane around a book or applying film to a case window. As long as you are careful, measure twice, cut once, and take things slow, it should turn out OK. It is highly recommended you try on a normal box first though for practice.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Why would you bother with carbon fiber film (says the guy who is trying to make a carbon fiber door panel for his car







)? Just use the 3M cabon fiber sticker/decal. That way all you have to do is get it in a size that is a little bit bigger than your speaker, and stick it straight on. Then go back and cut away the excess.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Why would you bother with carbon fiber film (says the guy who is trying to make a carbon fiber door panel for his car
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )? Just use the 3M cabon fiber sticker/decal. That way all you have to do is get it in a size that is a little bit bigger than your speaker, and stick it straight on. Then go back and cut away the excess.


Or you can cut the film to the right size as well.


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Why would you bother with carbon fiber film (says the guy who is trying to make a carbon fiber door panel for his car
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )? Just use the 3M cabon fiber sticker/decal. That way all you have to do is get it in a size that is a little bit bigger than your speaker, and stick it straight on. Then go back and cut away the excess.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*


http://www.carbonfiberfilm.com

He is talking about this I think


----------



## Simca

That's exactly what I was talking about.

What's he suggesting I use?


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> That's exactly what I was talking about.
> 
> What's he suggesting I use?


I am not a mind reader, but I think he thought you bought an entire roll as opposed to small pre-cut films.


----------



## Singledigit

I put this on the Most Recommended thread but I found this one and think its more suitable

I just saw these on sale on Newegg for $70 and had great reviews.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290200

Seems like i might get these but I need some help about getting an amp/receiver to hook them up to my computer. Any suggestions? Not sure how much amps/receivers cost but would not like to spend too much. Not sure if prices ranges make a huge difference on quality, I dont know much audio equipment. Or would a sounds card be able to do this?


----------



## debuchan

Hi folks! I have an older receiver and thought I would finally get myself a set of speakers (I posted a new thread before and got a recommendation, but I sat on it too long and the selection for that item is not as nice as it once was). Anyways, I have a Kenwood KR-4070 and was thinking of getting this for my speakers:

http://www.amazon.com/NHT-SuperZero-2-1-Mini-Monitor-Speaker/dp/B00CKNOYWK/ref=dp_ob_title_ce

It is for my bedroom, so I do not want/need anything too overpowering, just something nice when I listen to my CDs or vinyl (mix of R&B, some disco, 80s, rap, jazz, and rock).







I think my max budget would be $300 (in the thread, I mentioned $500, but... yeah, holiday season spending is climbing so my budget must shrink). Does anyone have personal experience with these? Is there another that I should turn my attention towards? I need to make sure the speakers have a normal impedance of 8 ohm. Thanks in advance!


----------



## aksthem1

NHT makes excellent speakers. I'd totally recommend it. Just remember it's $100 for each.

There's actually much too many at that price point to even name. Though the Arx A1b is an excellent choice, would run you over because of shipping costs sadly.

Many of the usual ones I'd recommend they don't manufacturer anymore.


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Singledigit*
> 
> I put this on the Most Recommended thread but I found this one and think its more suitable
> 
> I just saw these on sale on Newegg for $70 and had great reviews.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882290200
> 
> Seems like i might get these but I need some help about getting an amp/receiver to hook them up to my computer. Any suggestions? Not sure how much amps/receivers cost but would not like to spend too much. Not sure if prices ranges make a huge difference on quality, I dont know much audio equipment. Or would a sounds card be able to do this?


I use these on my PC. This is what I did.

Polk Audio Monitor 30's - $55 (refurb from polk's ebay site)
Dayton 10" Sub - $110
Dayton DTA-100A (50w per channel) - $75
3.5mm to RCA splitter - $8

So $248 for the complete setup. I already had speaker wire. I originally ran the Monitor 30's alone (no sub) with this Lepai amp and it did a pretty good job, however the Dayton amp is much better.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> I am not a mind reader, but I think he thought you bought an entire roll as opposed to small pre-cut films.


No, there are films that are kind of like window tint. Essentially you use a spray glue and a squeegee instead of what you guys are talking about which is like 3M self adhering carbon fiber.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> No, there are films that are kind of like window tint. Essentially you use a spray glue and a squeegee instead of what you guys are talking about which is like 3M self adhering carbon fiber.


So are you suggesting she uses that or what was linked earlier?


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> So are you suggesting she uses that or what was linked earlier?


Essentially. When you guys said film I was thinking of the hydofilm crap. I saw someone on youtube using that stuff with some elmers spray glue and it turned out ok for flat objects (like speakers). But it sure as hell would not be as good as the sticker stuff.


----------



## bobfig

they mean vinyl wrap from 3m










this is some that i warped the bow tie up front with a black with small silver flakes


----------



## Sazexa

Hey guys. I'm looking for a cheap, and relatively good 5.1 speaker set. Doesn't have to be the best, but something that myself and buddies will enjoy for surround-sound gaming on the TV.

I was looking at the Polk Audio RM6750 set. Seems cheap enough, and with tons of good reviews.
Any alternatives? I'd probably be using a Denon AVR-1513 with it.


----------



## Simca

I actually like the cherry and don't see the need to plaster vinyl over it at the moment.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Hey guys. I'm looking for a cheap, and relatively good 5.1 speaker set. Doesn't have to be the best, but something that myself and buddies will enjoy for surround-sound gaming on the TV.
> 
> I was looking at the Polk Audio RM6750 set. Seems cheap enough, and with tons of good reviews.
> Any alternatives? I'd probably be using a Denon AVR-1513 with it.


well imo its best to spend as much as you can on the front and then what ever in the back but thats up to you. whats the full budget you are looking to spend?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> I actually like the cherry and don't see the need to plaster vinyl over it at the moment.


see i liked it too but with all these people beating around the bush not able to say what it really is was kinda funny.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> well imo its best to spend as much as you can on the front and then what ever in the back but thats up to you. whats the full budget you are looking to spend?


I'm just kind of looking for something bassy with relatively clear satellites. I don't exactly have the space to go with full-size bookshelves or floor-standing, not in my bedroom. Like I said, it's more so for entertaining friends. I use my computer speakers for the higher quality stuff.

EDIT: $250 is the most I'll spend if it's worth it. Preferably just around $200.


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> I'm just kind of looking for something bassy with relatively clear satellites. I don't exactly have the space to go with full-size bookshelves or floor-standing, not in my bedroom. Like I said, it's more so for entertaining friends. I use my computer speakers for the higher quality stuff.
> 
> EDIT: $250 is the most I'll spend if it's worth it. Preferably just around $200.


you sure you cant fit the bookshelf? i had 2 cheap 5.1 systems when i was younger and it was a fun novel kind of way but never great in sound. they all had like a 3" woofer and with that size of a woofer there isnt that full of a range so what they really used was a small 5" "sub" that covered some of the speaker area.

im thinking if you can swing it 3 pairs of the dayton b652 and a dayton sub-1000. the speakers you wouldn't use one as you only need one center but it still comes out less then $200.

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-pair--300-652
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628

i did find this, it may fit the bill better.
http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=109&cp_id=10906&cs_id=1090601&p_id=10565&seq=1&format=4#feedback

also right now there's a coupon "15off" for $15 off over $100


----------



## debuchan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> NHT makes excellent speakers. I'd totally recommend it. Just remember it's $100 for each.
> 
> There's actually much too many at that price point to even name. Though the Arx A1b is an excellent choice, would run you over because of shipping costs sadly.
> 
> Many of the usual ones I'd recommend they don't manufacturer anymore.


Thanks, I noticed that. I was able to buy them off of the 'bay for a discount.









They are listed as new, so here's hoping they will come to me in great shape.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Hey guys I'd like to join









I've got a pair of Gales 3010S speakers hooked up to my PC at the moment, upgrading to a pair of Cambridge Audio SX60s soon though


----------



## jellybeans69

Decided on final position for my magnat supremes 2000 as renovation of room is pretty much complete now


----------



## Simca

I can't remove the covers from my Q300s >:\


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Hmmm my previous post didn't subscribe me to this thread, weird. Subbed now!


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> you sure you cant fit the bookshelf? i had 2 cheap 5.1 systems when i was younger and it was a fun novel kind of way but never great in sound. they all had like a 3" woofer and with that size of a woofer there isnt that full of a range so what they really used was a small 5" "sub" that covered some of the speaker area.
> 
> im thinking if you can swing it 3 pairs of the dayton b652 and a dayton sub-1000. the speakers you wouldn't use one as you only need one center but it still comes out less then $200.
> 
> http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-b652-6-1-2-2-way-bookshelf-speaker-pair--300-652
> http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1000-10-100-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-628
> 
> i did find this, it may fit the bill better.
> http://www.monoprice.com/Product/?c_id=109&cp_id=10906&cs_id=1090601&p_id=10565&seq=1&format=4#feedback
> 
> also right now there's a coupon "15off" for $15 off over $100


Sadly, no, I really can't fit bookshelf. Just things in satellite size-type.
I can fit any size subwoofer, but don't want to go ridiculously over-kill by comparison to the speakers.


----------



## Mudfrog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Sadly, no, I really can't fit bookshelf. Just things in satellite size-type.
> I can fit any size subwoofer, but don't want to go ridiculously over-kill by comparison to the speakers.


For ~$250 I would do the Polk Audio RM6750's with a Dayton 10" Sub. If you shop around you should be able to find it for $250-275. These are great little satellites and your sub will cover anything under 120hz. If you can expand the budget a little the BIC F12 would be much better than the Dayton sub. That would put you around $350 or so.


----------



## Simca

Kefs are a little bigger than my infinitys but my to large. Was expecting them to be a bit bigger but that's better they're not huge.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Should I be ashamed for wanting one of these?


----------



## Timu

In a few days I'll have this hopefully:


----------



## Simca

It hurts to see 2x 670s in SLI (4gb version on top of that) and a bare minimum sound set up.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> It hurts to see 2x 670s in SLI (4gb version on top of that) and a bare minimum sound set up.


Better than logitech or other pc speakers at least.


----------



## Simca

That DTA-1 is a terrible amp.


----------



## pioneerisloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> That DTA-1 is a terrible amp.


Especially for 6-8ohm speakers yes I know.


----------



## twerk

Could someone please recommend me a 2.0 or 2.1 setup for under £200 please.

I would like them to be fairly small, the size of the Audioengine A2 is perfect but can be a bit larger if needed. If it exists I'd also like them to have an optical in, as I don't really want to fork out for a sound card or external DAC.

Fanks


----------



## Simca




----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> It hurts to see 2x 670s in SLI (4gb version on top of that) and a bare minimum sound set up.


Well, I'm loving them.=3


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> That DTA-1 is a terrible amp.


It's working fine for me so far(using a 12V 6A AC adapter and all) and there seems to be quite a bit of positive reviews on it.


----------



## jellybeans69

Funny enough, most of time i run my amp at ~5% volume max not to bother neighbours due to fact that on working days i'm home at like 20:00. Never have turned it up more than 50%, my neighbours would probably kill me if i did







Granite blocks seem to have helped reduce vibration that go on other aparments though 35x30x7cm ~20 killo blocks


----------



## Sazexa

Well, I still don't really have the room, but found an offer to great to pass up. I found a second set of my bookshelf speakers (Klipsch Icon KB-15) for $100 brand new, as well as a center (Klipsch KC-25) for just $150. Which saved about $150, so I'll have a 5.1 surround set up for my TV. Trouble is, now I need to find a good receiver to use with it. Something with little to no input lag. And preferably under $300.

Been looking at both the Denon AVR-1513, or the Yamaha RX-V375.

Still trying to figure out where the hell I'm going to place all my speakers for now...


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Well, I still don't really have the room, but found an offer to great to pass up. I found a second set of my bookshelf speakers (Klipsch Icon KB-15) for $100 brand new, as well as a center (Klipsch KC-25) for just $150. Which saved about $150, so I'll have a 5.1 surround set up for my TV. Trouble is, now I need to find a good receiver to use with it. Something with little to no input lag. And preferably under $300.
> 
> Been looking at both the Denon AVR-1513, or the Yamaha RX-V375.
> 
> Still trying to figure out where the hell I'm going to place all my speakers for now...


You should look at refurbs. I know that I am not the only person here that have bought a receiver from them.

http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/category/AVReceiver/Home-Audio/Home-Theater-Receivers/1.html?brand=Denon


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> You should look at refurbs. I know that I am not the only person here that have bought a receiver from them.
> 
> http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/category/AVReceiver/Home-Audio/Home-Theater-Receivers/1.html?brand=Denon


Wow. A 1913 for just about $300? That's a great deal. I assume they shouldn't have any physical signs of wear also, since they're refurb?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Wow. A 1913 for just about $300? That's a great deal. I assume they shouldn't have any physical signs of wear also, since they're refurb?


My Onkyo 808 looked brand new.


----------



## hertz9753

Simca, you smell different tonight.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> My Onkyo 808 looked brand new.


Great! That means I can get the one I wanted for like $110 off. Now I need to figure out where the hell I'm going to put the speakers...

My rear speakers I plan of getting speaker stands for. But I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to position my front L/R speakers and center speaker. I suppose I'm going to put my receiver on my computer desk... Kind of hard to pick where to put things. My TV stand would be great, if it wasn't asymmetrical. I think I'm just going to place my front L/R speaker and center all together under the TV. I feel like that'd defeat the purpose and they'd be too close together though.

A quick picture to show how it's set up now with 2.1. I don't really like it being way on top.



EDIT: Thinking of maybe adding an out-ward shelf for a speaker to sit on, outside the box area the TV sits in. While another speaker rests at the same height in the top-right cubby-hole. That might work. And then place the center speaker directly under the TV. Which I'd need to raise all of maybe 1/4th of an inch.


----------



## hertz9753

Is the tv at the foot end of the bed? I need to check on my folding team and get some sleep. Scratch the speaker in a cubby hole.


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Is the tv at the foot end of the bed? I need to check on my folding team and get some sleep. Scratch the speaker in a cubby hole.


It is at the foot of the bed, for now. Will be getting a loft bed and a couch soon, making the screen about 8-10 feet from the viewer's position.
I don't think the speaker in the cubby hole would make that much of a difference in sound, as long as it wasn't pushed all the way back in the cubby-space. The space it pretty large, about 13 x 13.

And I was thinking of maybe getting a speaker stand instead, and just making the speaker stand level with where the other speaker would be. Say, put the speakers about 30" off the ground. 30.25" technically.


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Simca, you smell different tonight.


-bonks your nose-


----------



## Simca

Looking at the Mirage OMD-28 Floorstanding Speakers on Woot. Normally $3500. On sale for $900. Interesting indeed. They look fantastic in Rosewood.

http://www.woot.com/offers/mirage-omd-28-floorstanding-speaker-3


----------



## astrallite

I think these usually go for around $1600/each online so this is about 43% off the street price.

I'd say at $1200/ea the NHT Classic Four at normal retail pricing is still a better speaker than the OMD-28s at $900/ea. The S&V review of these speakers had some pretty wonky measurements.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Looking at the Mirage OMD-28 Floorstanding Speakers on Woot. Normally $3500. On sale for $900. Interesting indeed. They look fantastic in Rosewood.
> 
> http://www.woot.com/offers/mirage-omd-28-floorstanding-speaker-3


Good to see you looking at other color combinations.


----------



## GTR Mclaren

going from the 22 or so speakers gauge to the 16 gauge ones...really improved my speakers

the cracking sound in some high notes in songs like "Debriefing" (MGS3) are gone now


----------



## JKuhn

I'd like some advice. I can't use my TEK receiver anymore (I've already lost the rear outputs on 2 soundcards and I'm convinced it's the receiver), and my my mother's TEAC BX-330 that I'm now using also has issues.

I can get a used Yamaha RX-V567 for R3500 (roughly $350), do you people think it's worth it? I asked a Yamaha agent, they said the equivalent is the V757 and it's R8500 (roughly $850). I don't really want to spend thousands, but my only other option is a cheap mini-hifi (R1600 or roughly $160 since I don't want LG) and then I can't connect a subwoofer.


----------



## phillyd

I suppose I can enter this club now!

Audioengine A5+
Fiio E17 for a DAC

Very soon I'll also have...
Audio Poutine ODAC with RCA
Klipsch KW-100 sub


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> I'd like some advice. I can't use my TEK receiver anymore (I've already lost the rear outputs on 2 soundcards and I'm convinced it's the receiver), and my my mother's TEAC BX-330 that I'm now using also has issues.
> 
> I can get a used Yamaha RX-V567 for R3500 (roughly $350), do you people think it's worth it? I asked a Yamaha agent, they said the equivalent is the V757 and it's R8500 (roughly $850). I don't really want to spend thousands, but my only other option is a cheap mini-hifi (R1600 or roughly $160 since I don't want LG) and then I can't connect a subwoofer.


I have a Yamaha RX 567, can definitely recommend it







my dad bought it for our living room 7.1 set up and it sounded really good, now I have it in my room for a 2.1 music set up and it still sounds brilliant.
My opinion - go for it


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> I'd like some advice. I can't use my TEK receiver anymore (I've already lost the rear outputs on 2 soundcards and I'm convinced it's the receiver), and my my mother's TEAC BX-330 that I'm now using also has issues.
> 
> I can get a used Yamaha RX-V567 for R3500 (roughly $350), do you people think it's worth it? I asked a Yamaha agent, they said the equivalent is the V757 and it's R8500 (roughly $850). I don't really want to spend thousands, but my only other option is a cheap mini-hifi (R1600 or roughly $160 since I don't want LG) and then I can't connect a subwoofer.


Do you use HDMI with it? If not then you can buy a receiver that is equivalent to a current mutli-thousand dollar receiver for under $300. For example just off the top of my head you can buy a Yamaha RX-V3000 for less than $300 used. It has high current 4OHM stable amplifiers that will sound much better than any $1000 receiver you can buy right now.

The reason why those receivers are worth so little is because nobody wants to use them because they don't have the HDMI switching abilities.

Any very high end receiver from years ago will have Analog inputs. You just go right out of your sound card and into those analog inputs and let your sound card do the decoding. Essentially the receiver is just an amplifier and a volume knob.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> I have a Yamaha RX 567, can definitely recommend it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my dad bought it for our living room 7.1 set up and it sounded really good, now I have it in my room for a 2.1 music set up and it still sounds brilliant.
> My opinion - go for it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Do you use HDMI with it? If not then you can buy a receiver that is equivalent to a current mutli-thousand dollar receiver for under $300. For example just off the top of my head you can buy a Yamaha RX-V3000 for less than $300 used. It has high current 4OHM stable amplifiers that will sound much better than any $1000 receiver you can buy right now.
> 
> The reason why those receivers are worth so little is because nobody wants to use them because they don't have the HDMI switching abilities.
> 
> Any very high end receiver from years ago will have Analog inputs. You just go right out of your sound card and into those analog inputs and let your sound card do the decoding. Essentially the receiver is just an amplifier and a volume knob.


Thanks for the opinions, but I already bought it. It's very difficult to get quality stuff second-hand here, so I didn't want to wait and lose the chance. Now I just have to buy a cable for digital audio so I don't have to run it off the front header on my case, and also a 3.5mm-6.3mm adapter because for some reason my Sennheise HD 380 Pro didn't come with one and my old ones aren't in a very good condition.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> I have a Yamaha RX 567, can definitely recommend it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my dad bought it for our living room 7.1 set up and it sounded really good, now I have it in my room for a 2.1 music set up and it still sounds brilliant.
> My opinion - go for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> Do you use HDMI with it? If not then you can buy a receiver that is equivalent to a current mutli-thousand dollar receiver for under $300. For example just off the top of my head you can buy a Yamaha RX-V3000 for less than $300 used. It has high current 4OHM stable amplifiers that will sound much better than any $1000 receiver you can buy right now.
> 
> The reason why those receivers are worth so little is because nobody wants to use them because they don't have the HDMI switching abilities.
> 
> Any very high end receiver from years ago will have Analog inputs. You just go right out of your sound card and into those analog inputs and let your sound card do the decoding. Essentially the receiver is just an amplifier and a volume knob.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the opinions, but I already bought it. It's very difficult to get quality stuff second-hand here, so I didn't want to wait and lose the chance. Now I just have to buy a cable for digital audio so I don't have to run it off the front header on my case, and also a 3.5mm-6.3mm adapter because for some reason my Sennheise HD 380 Pro didn't come with one and my old ones aren't in a very good condition.
Click to expand...

If your monitor uses HDMI then you should run an HDMI cable from your video card to the receiver then from the receiver to the monitor. Alternately if you don't have HDMI on your monitor you should be able to connect an HDMI cable to the receiver then go into screen resolution settings and set it to duplicate displays.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *givmedew*
> 
> If your monitor uses HDMI then you should run an HDMI cable from your video card to the receiver then from the receiver to the monitor. Alternately if you don't have HDMI on your monitor you should be able to connect an HDMI cable to the receiver then go into screen resolution settings and set it to duplicate displays.


Duplicate won't work, I'm using nVidia Surround. But I've already been told to connect my VGA monitor to the receiver with a HDMI to DVI cable if it doesn't work as it is. I'm running 2x DVI and 1x VGA at the moment.


----------



## saer

I would like to join









Presonus Eris E5 on ISO Acoustic stands


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I suppose I'll join I'm as a newbie!
I was recommended some Celestion 3 speakers by TJ angel, to replace my z5500 satellites (hopefully will get an amp in and more cs3s for a 4.1 setup).

Love the speakers so far. Just goes to show, audio doesn't age







!


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I suppose I'll join I'm as a newbie!
> I was recommended some Celestion 3 speakers by TJ angel, to replace my z5500 satellites (hopefully will get an amp in and more cs3s for a 4.1 setup).
> 
> Love the speakers so far. Just goes to show, audio doesn't age
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Nice to see you branching out of the headphone/iem scene.
You're right about audio not aging, until I got my beyers a couple of weeks ago I used a pair of JVCs from the 90's haha


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Nice to see you branching out of the headphone/iem scene.
> You're right about audio not aging, until I got my beyers a couple of weeks ago I used a pair of JVCs from the 90's haha


yeah my uncle made me listen to his old earbuds, that were from the 90s, they sounded great, I must say







!


----------



## astrallite

Pro wire management.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Is there anyone located in new york area that would be willing to buy me some speakers and ship them to me. I would pay for the speakers, shipping, and I would throw in 20 bucks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snell-Type-J-Loudspeakers-Poor-Condition-LOCAL-PICKUP-ONLY-NEWBURGH-NY-12550-/261369013596?pt=Speakers_Subwoofers&hash=item3cdacea55c


----------



## bumblebee1980

http://www.avshowrooms.com/YG_Acoustics_Co.html


----------



## phillyd

Need suggestions on a Harmon Kardon or JBL sub. Would the JBL CSS11 be good for rap/dubstep as well as rock and such paired with AudioEngine A5+? Very large apartment.


----------



## hertz9753

What is your price range?


----------



## givmedew

Everybody is posting their 2CH set ups and I just got a new amp today so I'll put mine up. Office is a complete mess. The rack of amplifiers next to the desk controls the living room.




Excuse the mess...

For a pre-amp and headphones I'm using the tiny little uDac. Don't really recommend it (bad volume knobs) but it serves it's purpose.

Nothing like listening to music and having the voice sound like it is coming out of the monitor itself.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> What is your price range?


$100- ~170. I can get discounts for JBL. Ignore the harmon request. The CSS11 would be $145. I could wait a bit and get the ES150P for about $160, but by a bit, I mean almost 2 months.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> What is your price range?
> 
> 
> 
> $100- ~170. I can get discounts for JBL. Ignore the harmon request. The CSS11 would be $145. I could wait a bit and get the ES150P for about $160, but by a bit, I mean almost 2 months.
Click to expand...

compare 2 months to how long you will own the sub...

sound worth it now?


----------



## phillyd

Depends on whether or not the sound will improve that much. That's why I'm asking.

Though it seems pretty clear from your answer that the extra power is worth it. Thanks!


----------



## Simca

Don't mess up on the subwoofer. It can literally make or break your experience. Consider how much power you need. A subwoofer can rock your apartment and your neighbors. You might need something to put the subwoofer on that will stop it from shaking the floor too much. I suggest going deep pocketed with the subwoofer. At least 250 to 300 to begin. It'll be the best purchase of your audio setup.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Don't mess up on the subwoofer. It can literally make or break your experience. Consider how much power you need. A subwoofer can rock your apartment and your neighbors. You might need something to put the subwoofer on that will stop it from shaking the floor too much. I suggest going deep pocketed with the subwoofer. At least 250 to 300 to begin. It'll be the best purchase of your audio setup.


At that price, what do you think of the AudioEngine S8? Overpriced?

Just found that the ES150P is about $160 on amazon. List is $450. Any thoughts?


----------



## Simca

Idk about those subwoofers, but anything from HSU, Epik, Outlaw, Sunfire, Some Velodynes, and a few other brands are all good places to look.

Look at the HSU STF1/2, Outlaw M8, Epik Legend.


----------



## phillyd

I'd like to keep it on the cheaper side. But I'll look into finding one of those used


----------



## Magical Eskimo

My set up at the moment - please excuse the mess


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'd like to keep it on the cheaper side. But I'll look into finding one of those used


While I understand everyone has a budget, just understand that this is probably one of the most important audio purchases you'll ever make. It will completely redefine your audio experience. Your DT770s are nothing compared to what these subwoofers will put out. They will literally make you not want to listen to your headphones anymore, lol.


----------



## bumblebee1980

PSB has a new set of desktop speakers called the PSB Alpha PS1 Powered Speakers and it comes with the compact sub for $499.



http://www.psbspeakers.com/products/alpha/Alpha-PS1-Powered-Speaker
http://www.psbspeakers.com/products/ultra-compact-subwoofers/SubSeries-100-Subwoofer


----------



## Simca

I was looking at PSB speakers before I settled on the KEF Q300s.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> PSB has a new set of desktop speakers called the PSB Alpha PS1 Powered Speakers and it comes with the compact sub for $499.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.psbspeakers.com/products/alpha/Alpha-PS1-Powered-Speaker
> http://www.psbspeakers.com/products/ultra-compact-subwoofers/SubSeries-100-Subwoofer


they look ugly, really dam ugly.

In other news I got these to review recently - really impressed:
http://www.ruarkaudio.com/products/mr1-overview

Ruark Audio MR1 speakers:


----------



## Simca

All a matter of preference. To many those Ruark's would be considered dull.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> All a matter of preference. To many those Ruark's would be considered dull.


indeed there's preference...but honestly those PSB's look like a piece of CHEAP chinese plastic that's been mass produced....maybe that's just me...but I'm sure the mojority of people would agree.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'd like to keep it on the cheaper side. But I'll look into finding one of those used
> 
> 
> 
> While I understand everyone has a budget, just understand that this is probably one of the most important audio purchases you'll ever make. It will completely redefine your audio experience. Your DT770s are nothing compared to what these subwoofers will put out. They will literally make you not want to listen to your headphones anymore, lol.
Click to expand...

AVSforum agrees multiply. I'll raise to $300. Even if I have to wait a bit.


----------



## Simca

If there's one component in all of my audio collection that I can no longer live without it is my subwoofer. My KEF Q300s as nice as they are don't compare in enjoyment value to my HSU VTF-3. My HE-500s don't compare in enjoyment value to my HSU VTF-3. I'm not even particularly a basshead, but I couldn't live without my subwoofer anymore. It absolutely changes your listening experience and makes everything else inferior. If you don't have a subwoofer or you simply have a cheap subwoofer, you're missing out on a huge part of your music and movies.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> indeed there's preference...but honestly those PSB's look like a piece of CHEAP chinese plastic that's been mass produced....maybe that's just me...but I'm sure the mojority of people would agree.


I second the motion.


----------



## bumblebee1980

my Fostex monitors put out alot of bass almost too much. I don't need a sub.


----------



## hertz9753

I use a Mirage Omni S8 subwoofer for my pc. My HT has a Velodyne spl 1000r that looks like a cheap glossy piano black 12 inch cube. Do you guys think I should sell the Velodyne?


----------



## phillyd

So AVS seems to believe that a Dayton Audio Sub-1500 would be a good investment. Big driver, low watt. So it hits deep, and if I need louder, more room filling bass, buy another later.

Thoughts?


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> my Fostex monitors put out alot of bass almost too much. I don't need a sub.


Same with my Eltax Liberty 3+ set up, I have a sub which I only really turn on for games like battlefield 3 and 4 for that extra rumble to annoy the neighbours with


----------



## phillyd

Do you two listen to electronic music or rap?


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Do you two listen to electronic music or rap?


I listen to loads of genres, I'll shuffle my library and write down the first 5 that come up









Shinedown - All I Ever Wanted
Blue October - Calling You
Linkin Park - Hit The Floor
Chase & Status - Hypest Hype ft Tempa T
London Grammar - Strong

If I put the sub on for music it's overpowering and sounds bad on all of these songs


----------



## phillyd

Hm. I have a bass craving...definitely a basshead.

Maybe you'd like the sub better for music if you had it tuned for your monitors? Maybe a high pass for the monitors so only the sub is handling the deeper bass notes.

Just speculation though!


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Yeah it probably just needs some finer tuning. I have a yamaha receiver that has this little device you plug in and it supposedly sets it all up for you and it was after doing that it turned off the 'extra bass' option. My sub is turned on all the times, but it doesn't kick in unless I tell it I want extra bass


----------



## phillyd

Hmm. Sounds interesting.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Yeah it's basically a little microphone on a really long cable so you can place it where you'll be sitting and sounds play out the speakers which it picks up and adjusts them to optimal levels


----------



## phillyd

That's cool! I can't wait till I have that kind of money.

I'm not using my Promedia 2.1's atm, so I have it hooked up to my speakers RCA out>3.5mm adapter>Promedia control panel>subwoofer.

The speakers are not plugged in. It doesn't do horrible. An improvement in a lot of music over no sub at all.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> That's cool! I can't wait till I have that kind of money.
> 
> I'm not using my Promedia 2.1's atm, so I have it hooked up to my speakers RCA out>3.5mm adapter>Promedia control panel>subwoofer.
> 
> The speakers are not plugged in. It doesn't do horrible. An improvement in a lot of music over no sub at all.


This is the receiver, not a particularly pricey one in the grand scheme of things! http://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-RX-V567BL-Channel-Theater-Receiver/dp/B003CP0K96


----------



## phillyd

That costs about what my speakers and sub cost. Okay a bit less but still.


----------



## atarione

my desk speaker "collection" i guess.. show model and where made.

Optimus Pro-X5 (Malaysia)
NHT SuperZero (USA)
Monitor Audio Silver S1 (England)
Optimus Pro-X144AV (Malaysia)
DCM TimeFrame TF250 (USA)

https://imageshack.com/i/mv90xpj

edit : one of the reasons I love vintage /used gear all in I paid $100 for the speakers shown total.


----------



## Sazexa

After many long weeks, about four or five, I've finally figured out how exactly to set up my surround. I do still need to purchase the last speaker for my set, the center (Klipsch Icon KC-25.) But soon, hopefully. And I also need to find a good receiver. Using accessories4less, like I was linked to a while ago, found some really good ones in the $250-$300 (or normally $500-$600 range), so we'll see what happens in the month to come.


----------



## bobfig

dont forget to check craigslist as i got one for $100 in mint condition. it is however an older one without hdmi but didnt need it.


----------



## saer

Thinking about upgrading to http://www.adam-audio.com/en/pro-audio/products/a5x/description Anyone using these ?


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Yeah it's basically a little microphone on a really long cable so you can place it where you'll be sitting and sounds play out the speakers which it picks up and adjusts them to optimal levels


I still have to tune the bass after using the YPAO, but it's definitely a very handy thing to have.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

My video review of the Ruark Audio MR1's:


----------



## Lu(ky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Thinking about upgrading to http://www.adam-audio.com/en/pro-audio/products/a5x/description Anyone using these ?


I had the A7X couple of months ago and they were solid speakers but they were just to big for my desktop so I returned them and purchased the Adam Audio ARTist 5 in white. My new ARTist 5's are missing the front tube port that my A7X had and got better bass but my ARTist 5's still sounds amazing accurate with a slight low end. Guitar Center carries them so you can go there to listen to them in person and B&H usually has them at a lower price so they will do a price match etc.
End the end I am very happy with my Adam speakers and there X-ART ribbon tweeter is just awesome, and takes 30-mins by hand to make.. See ----> H E R E

When I tested the A5X vs A7X the 7's were the tickets just way more open and airy, but also a lot bigger in size. Take a look at the ARTist 5 I do not think they will have them on the floor by Guitar Center but I think they sound way better then the A5X and B&H has them for $1K and Guitar Center will price match them I got mine for $940 plus tax..


----------



## Magical Eskimo

I adjusted the volume on my sub yesterday and I think I got it right now, I still turn off the sub when it's later in the evening though because it still rumbles a little. The Eltax Liberty 3+ speakers do still sound very good without a sub though, not bad considering they were fairly cheap and at least 10 years old


----------



## scottath

Hey all,

Contemplating adding a sub to my 2.0 setup that i have just upgraded a few months ago.
Mains: Swan t200b monitor pair
Near field listening (Speaker | 24" | 27" | 24" | Speaker)

Ive got my old speakers (Swan D1080 mk II 08) as a 'sub' atm via the Xonar D2x crossover - but looking for a proper sub to add to the setup.
Like detailed bass, not "whump whump whump" etc

Not sure when funds would be available for it - but looking around atm. Probably $500 max i think for now.
Was looking at the Swan H8 (simply due to easy of acquirement and brand), but open to other suggestions.


----------



## Simca

$500 is a great amount to spend on your subwoofer. Only questions we have for you is do you prefer a subwoofer suited to movies or music? Do you prefer subbass or mid bass slam? What size subwoofer you looking for? Live in an apartment or house? Will shaking bother anyone else in the home?


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scottath*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Contemplating adding a sub to my 2.0 setup that i have just upgraded a few months ago.
> Mains: Swan t200b monitor pair
> Near field listening (Speaker | 24" | 27" | 24" | Speaker)
> 
> Ive got my old speakers (Swan D1080 mk II 08) as a 'sub' atm via the Xonar D2x crossover - but looking for a proper sub to add to the setup.
> *Like detailed bass, not "whump whump whump" etc*
> 
> Not sure when funds would be available for it - but looking around atm. Probably $500 max i think for now.
> Was looking at the Swan H8 (simply due to easy of acquirement and brand), but open to other suggestions.


take a look at SVS subwoofers.


----------



## Sazexa

Found a line of AV receivers I really like. The NR line by Marantz. Not sure if I should shell out additional money for the higher end ones. The base one, NR1403 has everything I need, and that's about it. I kind of 4K/App Control with the higher end two. The 1504 is $100 more, for a lot of features I may not necessarily use.The 1604 is an additional $150 over over the 1504, but has 7.1 audio and would work with my Xbox One's remote capabilities... Again, not necessarily worth the price difference. Maybe if I find them cheap. Also, the 4K is only 1.4a HDMI, so only 30Hz playback. Anyways, does anyone have experience or input on these AVR's? Hoping to hear some good stuff.


----------



## scottath

For the mean time, its in my room at home (4*3m), but will go with me when i move out whenever that happens.....
Disturbance of others atm isnt much of an issue, but with the prices of housing near me atm, will be an issue soon.

Sub would be more utilized for music, and occasional movies.
My monitors are good to about 100hz ( if you turn them up loud enough to annoy anyone at home and they sound awesome), the speakers i have running atm are good to about 60hz and thats about the limit of them, and its a rather muddy note at that. So looking at probably more the punchy mid bass, with adequate sub-bass.

From the pm i recieved - that SVS SB-1000 looks ok, but is available locally for $700, and im thinking a 12" driver is probably mega overkill for a 4*3m room. Im guessing ill be in an apartment when i move out so the space probably wont be all that much bigger.


----------



## Simca

The HSU VTF-1 shipped will be at or under your price range. The ability to control this subwoofer gives it the advantage over say the STF-2.

The SVS SB-1000 shouldn't be $700. It was going for $500 shipped at one point. It really is a good woofer.

Epik is selling the Legend for $350 shipped right now. Really good price and they make quality woofers. Retails for $900. Often goes on sale for $500 though...so $350 shipped is an...Epik price. Still the VTF-1 gives you better control.


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> The HSU VTF-1 shipped will be at or under your price range. The ability to control this subwoofer gives it the advantage over say the STF-2.
> 
> The SVS SB-1000 shouldn't be $700. It was going for $500 shipped at one point. It really is a good woofer.
> 
> Epik is selling the Legend for $350 shipped right now. Really good price and they make quality woofers. Retails for $900. Often goes on sale for $500 though...so $350 shipped is an...Epik price. Still the VTF-1 gives you better control.


he lives in Australia. he will have to buy something locally.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Australia is notorious for having high prices for everything


----------



## scottath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> The HSU VTF-1 shipped will be at or under your price range. The ability to control this subwoofer gives it the advantage over say the STF-2.
> 
> The SVS SB-1000 shouldn't be $700. It was going for $500 shipped at one point. It really is a good woofer.
> 
> Epik is selling the Legend for $350 shipped right now. Really good price and they make quality woofers. Retails for $900. Often goes on sale for $500 though...so $350 shipped is an...Epik price. Still the VTF-1 gives you better control.


Ill have a look though those other models too, see what is available locally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> he lives in Australia. he will have to buy something locally.


Yup - shipping sucks ALOT!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> Australia is notorious for having high prices for everything


Indeed. $699 locally for the SB1000 new, not found anything for sale either. Review is glowing for it though that ive read. Might save up for a while and still get it....sub worth the same as the monitor pair - yippy.
Any other brands/models to search for locally?
Guessing there is nothing worth wild looking at in a cheaper range either? ~$300ish?


----------



## Magical Eskimo

I'm afraid I don't know too much about non English brands. If you can get Cambridge Audio or Tannoy or Mordaunt Short in Aus then they're good. It's funny how English audio is so different from anywhere else. I think England still has a lot of mid - high end English based manufacturers that don't sell much outside England


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magical Eskimo*
> 
> I'm afraid I don't know too much about non English brands. If you can get Cambridge Audio or Tannoy or Mordaunt Short in Aus then they're good. It's funny how English audio is so different from anywhere else. I think England still has a lot of mid - high end English based manufacturers that don't sell much outside England


they do indeed - but unless you're around that sort of audio - people don't know of it.


----------



## phillyd

This looks like a REALLY good deal.
http://www.amazon.com/KRK-RP8G3-NA-Generation-Powered-Monitor/dp/B00EO7Z9YM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1390324446&sr=8-2&keywords=rokit+8


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Updated setup







!
1x Denon DX500
4x Celestion 3
*1x Center Logitech Z5500 speaker - looking to replace this one - any suggestions?*


----------



## debuchan

On the topic of SVS subwoofers, has anyone used their Merlin program and bought a sub based off the recommendation? I am interested because I may be purchasing a subwoofer for my bedroom setup. Sadly, I am still undecided, despite Simca's endorsement of subwoofers and their ability to enhance one's listening experience.


----------



## bumblebee1980

no I haven't. SVS makes really good subwoofers and the cylinder subs are a staple in home theaters. my dad has an older one. for music you should take a look at their sealed subs.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bumblebee1980*
> 
> no I haven't. SVS makes really good subwoofers and the cylinder subs are a staple in home theaters. my dad has an older one. for music you should take a look at their sealed subs.


Yes to the sealed sub for music.







My second choice would be a front firing woofer with a port on the bottom.


----------



## Simca

I barely listen to my HE-500s anymore because my subwoofer is that awesome. Even though I have Q300s now, even my Infinity P153s were awesome with the sub.


----------



## OC'ing Noob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> I barely listen to my HE-500s anymore because my subwoofer is that awesome. Even though I have Q300s now, even my Infinity P153s were awesome with the sub.


You ever consider selling them?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> I barely listen to my HE-500s anymore because my subwoofer is that awesome. Even though I have Q300s now, even my Infinity P153s were awesome with the sub.
> 
> 
> 
> You ever consider selling them?
Click to expand...

I might be looking to buy


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OC'ing Noob*
> 
> You ever consider selling them?


No, not really. They still have a use occasionally.


----------



## Sazexa

For between the Marantz NR1403 and NR1604 as a new receiver. The NR1403 is everything I NEED, and nothing more. The 1604 is all I need l, with a lot I WANT (and also don't need.)


----------



## [CyGnus]

I need to change my Receiver (Pioneer VSX-421K) what do you guys think of these 2: Denon AVR-X1000 (422€) and the Onkyo TX-NR626 (519€) or is there anything else better around these prices? Thanks


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Onkyo are pretty good at the moment, a guy in one of my local HiFi shops said at that sort of price range the onkyo is very good. my dad recently bought a new receiver about that price and the onkyo was one discussed, although my dad ended up with a Yamaha instead because he liked his old Yamaha


----------



## phillyd

Anybody know of any small (about 6-12") adjustable height speaker stands cheap? Like a little tripod or something for speakers.


----------



## saer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Anybody know of any small (about 6-12") adjustable height speaker stands cheap? Like a little tripod or something for speakers.


I have these an absolutely love them http://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Pair/dp/B008GOP79G


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> I need to change my Receiver (Pioneer VSX-421K) what do you guys think of these 2: Denon AVR-X1000 (422€) and the Onkyo TX-NR626 (519€) or is there anything else better around these prices? Thanks


Denon has great sound, but a thing to keep in mind is that almost all Denons sound exactly the same. Just depends what the DAC inside is using. They change after a certain model, but once that model hits, they use the same one as all the ones above them until there's another DAC change IF there's another DAC change. So for instance, I believe that change previously happened around the 1600/1700 series on previous Denons and extended all the way up to the 3/4k series, which sounds crazy. Yamaha's are great as well, but if you're searching for a receiver, I'd probably go Marantz. Similar sound to the Denon, but a bit better. I think Denon owns Marantz now? Don't remember.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Simca i cant afford Marantz they go for 900€ + that is simply too much for me i think i will be fine with the denon thanks for the input


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Got my Cambridge Audio SX60s yesterday







Just burning them in at the moment so not very loud yet, but they sound awesome


----------



## Simca

Could buy used, but sure.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> I have these an absolutely love them http://www.amazon.com/IsoAcoustics-ISO-L8R155-Medium-Pair/dp/B008GOP79G


$100?? I'll hire a local company to design custom ones for that price.

Any cheaper options?


----------



## bumblebee1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> $100?? I'll hire a local company to design custom ones for that price.
> 
> Any cheaper options?


that's not too bad. steel/aluminum/cast iron ones that can be filled with lead, rice, sand and kitty litter are $150 and up.


----------



## Simca

When it comes to stands for audio equipment, they're either garbage or expensive.


----------



## phillyd

Then I'll make my own.


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Then I'll make my own.


I want desktop speaker stands too, and it's even harder to find stuff like that in the UK









I might just get some nice pieces of wood, sand them down nice and smooth and varnish maybe. You got any ideas on what you might do?


----------



## phillyd

Probably grab some 1x8" planks and cut them so I can assemble them as a rectangular then paint them or cover em with a 3m vinyl wrap.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Bought the Celestion F35C centre speaker.
Not that impressed with it, especially the fact that it is now built in CHINA, rather than my 20yr old Celestion 3's that were built in England.
Build quality shows....whilst cleaning the F35c - it was the first EVER speaker I have EVER popped accidentally.

I was really disappointed in my actions, but also the build quality from Celestion.
Here's the pics and what came of it (fixed it in the end):
http://www.overclock.net/t/1461611/found-looking-for-centre-speaker-advice/20#post_21713000


----------



## DiNet

B&W 704.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Bought the Celestion F35C centre speaker.
> Not that impressed with it, especially the fact that it is now built in CHINA, rather than my 20yr old Celestion 3's that were built in England.
> Build quality shows....whilst cleaning the F35c - it was the first EVER speaker I have EVER popped accidentally.
> 
> I was really disappointed in my actions, but also the build quality from Celestion.
> Here's the pics and what came of it (fixed it in the end):
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1461611/found-looking-for-centre-speaker-advice/20#post_21713000


People really need to get off the "made in China" blame game, some very good stuff comes out of China. Celestion is a UK based company that designed this speaker and sent the manufacturing to China to control costs. Either Celestion made a design that is cheaper, of less quality, ect. or is not controlling their manufacturer correctly. The fact that they sent it to China for manufacture instead of keeping it in house in the UK shows they are cutting costs on the product and likely cut costs in other places like materials. This is a Celestion issue not a China issue.

Also you pushing in a tweeter I don't see as a quality of build or materials issue.


----------



## DiNet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> People really need to get off the "made in China" blame game, some very good stuff comes out of China. Celestion is a UK based company that designed this speaker and sent the manufacturing to China to control costs. Either Celestion made a design that is cheaper, of less quality, ect. or is not controlling their manufacturer correctly. The fact that they sent it to China for manufacture instead of keeping it in house in the UK shows they are cutting costs on the product and likely cut costs in other places like materials. This is a Celestion issue not a China issue.
> Also you pushing in a tweeter I don't see as a quality of build or materials issue.


It's a $60 center speaker... I wouldn't expect actual quality out of this, but yeah, China is to blame, not that he caused damage nor you can push in tweeters like that on speakers


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> People really need to get off the "made in China" blame game, some very good stuff comes out of China. Celestion is a UK based company that designed this speaker and sent the manufacturing to China to control costs. Either Celestion made a design that is cheaper, of less quality, ect. or is not controlling their manufacturer correctly. The fact that they sent it to China for manufacture instead of keeping it in house in the UK shows they are cutting costs on the product and likely cut costs in other places like materials. This is a Celestion issue not a China issue.
> 
> Also you pushing in a tweeter I don't see as a quality of build or materials issue.


Maybe you don't understand.
My point of how a UK based company that USED TO make speakers in the UK went over to CHINA - and because of this feels like a downgrade in quality.
As said before - I have a set of Celestion 3's that were made in the UK - and yes I cleaned their tweeter even more vigorously than I did with the F35C made in china speaker.
Did the CS3's have any sort of sign of wear and tear, did they have any problems, did the tweeter pop? NO. The one made in china on the other hand - you push it the the SLIGHTEST of touches and it "pops"

In my lifetime - I've never ever popped a SINGLE SPEAKER. This was a first for me and I must say a disappointing first.

As for the general build quality - it can be seen even from the rear side of the speaker.

Is China to blame?
Yes
Why?
Because it was produced over there.

Is Celestion to blame?
Yes
Why?
Because they moved their manufacturing to China (probably to save costs)

Am I to blame?
Yes
Why?
Because I popped the speaker

Should I have been more careful, based on previous experience?
NO
Why?
Because I already own a set of Celestion speakers, thought the build quality would have "carried through" - ESPECIALLY considering the centre speaker is around 15yrs newer....15 for god sake.

What's the point of mentioning this?
Deterioration of build quality from what used to be a home-grown business, I don't really care who you point the finger to.
Point is: It was made in China, the build quality suffered - go figure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiNet*
> 
> It's a $60 center speaker... I wouldn't expect actual quality out of this, but yeah, China is to blame, not that he caused damage nor you can push in tweeters like that on speakers


Yeah I caused the damage for sure - but that's besides the point, see above.


----------



## silvrr

Why are you cleaning the tweeter on a brand new speaker? And why are you touching it at all? If it has dust blow it off... gently.

If you want a quality part you have to spend money. If you buy the bottom line from a company you get just that. My B&Ws are made in China too but perform beautifully. Do they have the build and finish of the CM series or the 800 series, no but I didn't pay for that. People need to set their expectations based on what they spend. And yes its going to come from China but if anyone is to blame its the company that designed the product and sent it to manufacture in China without proper oversight/quality control. Same thing can happen in the UK with a manufacturer that isn't controlled well, however, everyone sees "Made in China" and blames China for a crappy product when they actually are a country that is quite capable of making great products but have a bad reputation.


----------



## Simca

People aren't willing to spend made in the US money, but cry when made in China products are rubbish.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Why are you cleaning the tweeter on a brand new speaker? And why are you touching it at all? If it has dust blow it off... gently.
> 
> If you want a quality part you have to spend money. If you buy the bottom line from a company you get just that. My B&Ws are made in China too but perform beautifully. Do they have the build and finish of the CM series or the 800 series, no but I didn't pay for that. People need to set their expectations based on what they spend. And yes its going to come from China but if anyone is to blame its the company that designed the product and sent it to manufacture in China without proper oversight/quality control. Same thing can happen in the UK with a manufacturer that isn't controlled well, however, everyone sees "Made in China" and blames China for a crappy product when they actually are a country that is quite capable of making great products but have a bad reputation.


I guess you must not have read my thread.
I bought the speaker used - the Tweeter was a little dirty - so I cleaned it.

As for "bottom line" don't really see it being "bottom line" - My Celestion 3's were both cheaper than the Centre speakers, yet they aren't really considered "bottom line" - just "outdated", yet it is built brilliantly and still sounds absolutely amazing.

And it is understandable - why do you think I don't like Apple products either









I got absolutely nothing against Chinese or China - but with build quality I don't even think Made in USA things are that great either.

I have no idea where you're from (although it seems like from China) - but made in Europe things seem to be made of better quality.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> People aren't willing to spend made in the US money, but cry when made in China products are rubbish.


Cry? Don't be foolish again Simca









I should also note something:
Again, you seem to be forgetting I bought some speakers that were made in England already.
You also seem to be attacking me, when I was commenting on my disappointment of a COMPANY.
I don't see the point of attacking me, but it's not the first nor the last time I'll see it on OCN.

EDIT:
On a final note - here's my updated setup.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiNet*
> 
> B&W 704.


Beautiful. The guy I bought my 685s off of had the same set, black and all. They sounded very nice but he had them in a big room with all drywall, hardwood/tile floor and it affected the sound. Just moving a new chair into my room changed the sound, same when I added a area rug. Did you see a big difference with the panels behind?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I guess you must not have read my thread.
> I bought the speaker used - the Tweeter was a little dirty - so I cleaned it.


I guess you didn't read my post, don't touch tweeters, a little dust isn't going to change the sound.
Quote:


> As for "bottom line" don't really see it being "bottom line" - My Celestion 3's were both cheaper than the Centre speakers, yet they aren't really considered "bottom line" - just "outdated", yet it is built brilliantly and still sounds absolutely amazing.


Did you buy the 3's used too? If so price is irrelevant. And with the age of your 3's price is even more irrelevant.

I was saying the new center channel was the bottom of their line. Bottom of the line up may have made it a bit more clear. If you buy the budget version of a suppliers product expect budget quality. Hence my example with the B&W 685s vs buying the CM or 800 series which cost many times over but are rather high quality.

Quote:


> I got absolutely nothing against Chinese or China - but with build quality I don't even think Made in USA things are that great either.
> 
> I have no idea where you're from (although it seems like from China) - but made in Europe things seem to be made of better quality.
> Cry? Don't be foolish again Simca


What I am getting at is country of manufacture is irrelevant. You can have very high quality products come from anywhere with the right specifications and control on manufacturing. However to cut costs, specifications call for cheaper materials and manufacturing is sent to locations with cheaper labor rates. If control of the product to specification and/or manufacturing practices are not watched closely its not the country that is to blame, it happens everywhere. Having worked in quality in a number of industries I can attest to high quality products coming from 3rd world countries and absolute crap coming out of countries with good reputations.

Im actually from the U.S. home of some of the best and worst manufacturers in the world.
Quote:


> I should also note something:
> Again, you seem to be forgetting I bought some speakers that were made in England already.
> You also seem to be attacking me, when I was commenting on my disappointment of a COMPANY.
> I don't see the point of attacking me, but it's not the first nor the last time I'll see it on OCN.


The speakers you bought were made in England 20 years ago. Times have changed, all companies cut corners and a lot of them have budget lines now, you have to do your research.

I for one am not attacking you. This is a forum where people have discussions. You seem to be bashing China and I am expressing my views on it. If you feel attacked by me let me know and Ill add some more smiley faces or pictures of rainbows to my post. (<--- Joke)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> I guess you didn't read my post, don't touch tweeters, a little dust isn't going to change the sound.
> Did you buy the 3's used too? If so price is irrelevant. And with the age of your 3's price is even more irrelevant.
> 
> I was saying the new center channel was the bottom of their line. Bottom of the line up may have made it a bit more clear. If you buy the budget version of a suppliers product expect budget quality. Hence my example with the B&W 685s vs buying the CM or 800 series which cost many times over but are rather high quality.
> What I am getting at is country of manufacture is irrelevant. You can have very high quality products come from anywhere with the right specifications and control on manufacturing. However to cut costs, specifications call for cheaper materials and manufacturing is sent to locations with cheaper labor rates. If control of the product to specification and/or manufacturing practices are not watched closely its not the country that is to blame, it happens everywhere. Having worked in quality in a number of industries I can attest to high quality products coming from 3rd world countries and absolute crap coming out of countries with good reputations.
> 
> Im actually from the U.S. home of some of the best and worst manufacturers in the world.
> The speakers you bought were made in England 20 years ago. Times have changed, all companies cut corners and a lot of them have budget lines now, you have to do your research.
> 
> I for one am not attacking you. This is a forum where people have discussions. You seem to be bashing China and I am expressing my views on it. If you feel attacked by me let me know and Ill add some more smiley faces or pictures of rainbows to my post. (<--- Joke)


I know it doesn't "change the sound" - since when would the dust change the sound? Unless it was heavy dust - please.
Point is - I wanted it to be clean.

I bought the 3's used too yeah, what's your point?
Price is irrelevant - stop being ignorant. Hate people who say that, absolutely hate them.
Do you go out an buy your PC on no price limit or budget!? No, didn't think so - same applies with audio and more so my purchasing decisions.
I get your point on budget quality and high quality etc - but I think you're failing to see the point I was making.
Celestion 3's I bought at:
-£25
-£40

(yeah brilliant prices)

F35C centre speaker:
-£40

Yet the F35C, which is about 15yrs newer and yet the same price (used) as the CS3, and are BUILT worse.
Price irrelevant? I think not - ESPECIALLY when you say: "budget quality"

Quote:


> What I am getting at is country of manufacture is irrelevant. You can have very high quality products come from anywhere with the right specifications and control on manufacturing. However to cut costs, specifications call for cheaper materials and manufacturing is sent to locations with cheaper labor rates. If control of the product to specification and/or manufacturing practices are not watched closely its not the country that is to blame, it happens everywhere. Having worked in quality in a number of industries I can attest to high quality products coming from 3rd world countries and absolute crap coming out of countries with good reputations.


You literally make no sense in this.
Country not to blame, when the product is outsourced to the country?
Quality at a high standard, when cutting costs for cheaper materials and manufacturing?

When did I mention ANYTHING About labour rate?
Seriously - what the hell are you talking about.
Quote:


> Im actually from the U.S. home of some of the best and worst manufacturers in the world.


And that's why one of the most sold cars in the US are Japanese and Korean?
LMAO yeah MURICAAAA! Nice one.
Quote:


> The speakers you bought were made in England 20 years ago. Times have changed, all companies cut corners and a lot of them have budget lines now, you have to do your research.
> 
> I for one am not attacking you. This is a forum where people have discussions. You seem to be bashing China and I am expressing my views on it. If you feel attacked by me let me know and Ill add some more smiley faces or pictures of rainbows to my post. (<--- Joke)


That. Was. Exactly. My. Point.
I was commenting on how TIMES HAVE CHANGED and I am disappointed in what has happened to the company that "cut corners"
I don't care what part of the product line it is - heritage is something you can't "buy".

As for how you're acting - I think I saw how you acted, made me laugh.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> Subbing. Pretty much my setup. Except whole room is a mess currently. Plus, I have my extra 22" LG Monitor on the receiver angled towards me for a extra monitor.
> Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR804
> Speakers: B&W 686
> 
> I still want to pick up a HTM61 or HTM62 to use for a center channel, put the 686 as rears and pull out my Sony SS-MF550H as fronts.


So, as my old post says. I ended up pulling out my Sony SS-MF550H to use as fronts. Just did not sound good at all. So, I set them up at "B" fronts, to run with the B&W and would do All Stereo from my receiver. Even though the 686 are smaller bookshelf speakers. The would just blow away the Sony's as far as sound goes. All across the board. So, put the Sony's up at my wife's music shop. Just us them to demo other receivers and amps that people bring in for consignment.
Maybe when I change office rooms I'll pull out my old Cinema series Klipsch's to make a surround setup.


----------



## Simca

Most of those asian cars are assembled in the US.

You seem really mad, why don't you go have a nice break.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Most of those asian cars are assembled in the US.
> 
> You seem really mad, why don't you go have a nice break.


Ehh wrong thread?


----------



## Simca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> Ehh wrong thread?


~Slaps~ Go read.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Most of those asian cars are assembled in the US.
> 
> You seem really mad, why don't you go have a nice break.


Best replied with an image:



Seriously - I really don't mind - the sound is fine for me, just was pointing out the build quality.
More than anything as a reviewer - I felt I would share it, so that if anyone was THINKING of buying the F35C brand new, or even used, they would come across my post and at least SEE it. They can judge for themselves after.

Does it really affect me?
No not really, just my OCD for having the dome absolutely perfect.

Other than that - sound is unchanged and appreciation of the brand (in my eyes) has dropped.

TD's suggestion of the day:
Don't clean your F35C tweeters. Or at least if you do, be extremely careful.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> ~Slaps~ Go read.


Ah. Yep. Gotcha now. I had just finished reading on a car forum. Then read that and, yup. You are correct too. Hyundai, Kia and Toyota. Built in the US. Not all US models but quite a few.

On that note though. When the son took over Klipsch and sold it off. To me Klipsch has just gone down hill. Even their newer reference lines arent all that great to me. I dont even think they make any more in the states at all. But at some point they did acquire Energy speakers. Which I think may have helped Energy.

Back on topic....


----------



## biatchi

The speakers were built by a factory in China using the specs given to them by Celestion. If Celestion were unhappy with the quality of the product they shouldn't have sold them, if anyone is to blame its them.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I bought the 3's used too yeah, what's your point?
> Price is irrelevant - stop being ignorant. Hate people who say that, absolutely hate them.
> Do you go out an buy your PC on no price limit or budget!? No, didn't think so - same applies with audio and more so my purchasing decisions.
> I get your point on budget quality and high quality etc - but I think you're failing to see the point I was making.
> Celestion 3's I bought at:
> -£25
> -£40


I don't think you understood my point so I will try to clarify. You bought the 3's used and 20 years old. Price does play a factor as the 25 or 40 pounds you spent buys a lot more speaker when then are 20 years old and used. Those 3's may have been a higher end model back in the day but are cheaper now due to age. You can't compare the cost of a new speaker to that of a 20 year old speaker.
Quote:


> Yet the F35C, which is about 15yrs newer and yet the same price (used) as the CS3, and are BUILT worse.
> Price irrelevant? I think not - ESPECIALLY when you say: "budget quality"
> You literally make no sense in this.


See above on how age effects price.
Quote:


> Country not to blame, when the product is outsourced to the country?
> Quality at a high standard, when cutting costs for cheaper materials and manufacturing?


Yes, you don't seem to understand how products are made. Celestion designs a product and specifies all the materials, dimensions, ect. Then deciding to send this to another country to save money on labor sends that design and material specification to be built. They either specified the cheaper materials or didn't care and took what they got. Celestion is a fault here not the country it was manufactured in. If there were bad seams, poor alignment, poor soldering, ect. than that is partially to blame on the manufacturer but ultimately Celestion if responsible for their product and its quality.
Quote:


> When did I mention ANYTHING About labour rate?
> Seriously - what the hell are you talking about.


You do realize that is why products are made in China right? Cheap labor.
Quote:


> And that's why one of the most sold cars in the US are Japanese and Korean?
> LMAO yeah MURICAAAA! Nice one.


I could have guessed you would have come back with the car thing. Actually you should check your data. In 2013 GM, Ford and then Chrysler carried the top three and then all the imports come in. And as someone else said alot of those imports are assembled and partially manufactured here in the U.S. A lot of import cars on my second link (shows top cars manufactured in U.S. based on U.S. made content)

http://online.wsj.com/mdc/public/page/2_3022-autosales.html#autosalesE
http://www.cars.com/go/advice/Story.jsp?section=top&subject=ami

Also the U.S. makes a lot more than cars.

Quote:


> As for how you're acting - I think I saw how you acted, made me laugh.


I am not sure what I said to get you upset. I never talked down to you or use aggressive verbiage. I think you are reading what I type in the wrong tone. As I said before this is a discussion about quality which I know a bit about and don't like when people point the finger in the wrong direction. If someone (other than totally dubbed) can point out where I was acting poorly please PM me and let me know.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *biatchi*
> 
> The speakers were built by a factory in China using the specs given to them by Celestion. If Celestion were unhappy with the quality of the product they shouldn't have sold them, if anyone is to blame its them.


Exactly whaat I have been trying to say, I guess in to many words or not clearly though.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> Ah. Yep. Gotcha now. I had just finished reading on a car forum. Then read that and, yup. You are correct too. Hyundai, Kia and Toyota. Built in the US. Not all US models but quite a few.
> 
> On that note though. When the son took over Klipsch and sold it off. To me Klipsch has just gone down hill. Even their newer reference lines arent all that great to me. I dont even think they make any more in the states at all. But at some point they did acquire Energy speakers. Which I think may have helped Energy.
> 
> Back on topic....


Klipisch still makes the heresys and cornwalls though. They are still overly bright for my taste, but if you replace the compression driver, I am sure they would be fine.


----------



## DiNet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Beautiful. The guy I bought my 685s off of had the same set, black and all. They sounded very nice but he had them in a big room with all drywall, hardwood/tile floor and it affected the sound. Just moving a new chair into my room changed the sound, same when I added a area rug. Did you see a big difference with the panels behind?


Dramatically increased sound quality in my living room. It was a nightmare, you could hear echo from speaking in that room... Tho there are more panels in room, I didn't really finish, so no pictures








Worst part left - to fix them on the wall. 3 1.2m on back, 2 on left side and 1 on right side + 2 2.4m in front.
With panels removed they sound like elevator music.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiNet*
> 
> Dramatically increased sound quality in my living room. It was a nightmare, you could hear echo from speaking in that room... Tho there are more panels in room, I didn't really finish, so no pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Worst part left - to fix them on the wall. 3 1.2m on back, 2 on left side and 1 on right side + 2 2.4m in front.
> With panels removed they sound like elevator music.


Interesting. I don't think panels will pass the WAF (Wife Approval Factor) in my room but interesting to hear the impact it makes.

One of these recordings came up in my random playlist last night and I thought I would share. Free high quality files (24 bit / 96 kHz WAV) of some classical music and some percussion. I really like the individual drum presentations. You get to hear a variety of percussion instruments played which are recorded very well IMO. When my speakers are set right it sounds like there is a drummer sitting in the room.

http://www.lessloss.com/high-resolution-audiophile-recordings-c-68.html

I don't support their products just like the recordings they offer.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Interesting. I don't think panels will pass the WAF (Wife Approval Factor) in my room but interesting to hear the impact it makes.
> 
> One of these recordings came up in my random playlist last night and I thought I would share. Free high quality files (24 bit / 96 kHz WAV) of some classical music and some percussion. I really like the individual drum presentations. You get to hear a variety of percussion instruments played which are recorded very well IMO. When my speakers are set right it sounds like there is a drummer sitting in the room.
> 
> http://www.lessloss.com/high-resolution-audiophile-recordings-c-68.html
> 
> I don't support their products just like the recordings they offer.


Sure it could.

You do not even need panels. Some simple tapestries or wooden sound panels are very tasteful and can actually serve as both a functional sound dampener and a nice artistic piece.


----------



## DiNet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Interesting. I don't think panels will pass the WAF (Wife Approval Factor) in my room but interesting to hear the impact it makes.


You can use fabric with texture or canvas. A lot of those look like paintings, I've got some on back wall.
I've made the thin too, just 4cm, so it's really just like painting.

Some excellent examples:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UMDj3vxJ9AY/UN7YA-xoSjI/AAAAAAAAAOg/xhutTuQkGws/s1600/DIY%2BAcoustic%2BPanel1.JPG
http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/18ixajpicuptajpg/k-bigpic.jpg
http://www.interiorexteriorsolution.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/acoustic-panels-home-theater-products.jpg
http://cdn.furniturefashion.com/image/2009/08/acoustic%20panles%20wall%20coverings%20mono.jpg
http://www.desksinternational.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/Acoustic-Panels.jpg



Here's my backwall, messed up the one on the right and out of fabric. Will redo it later on and of course fix them on the wall








So pretty much painting...


----------



## Simca

That looks so good I almost want to buy it for myself.


----------



## silvrr

Not sure if any of you guys are into DIY but if anyone is interested in a Class D amp Im selling mine. I decided it was a bad idea to keep running it open and with three other projects going it isn't getting done anytime soon. 125x2 for 8ohms, 250x2 for 4 ohms or 500x2 into 8 ohms bridged of nice clean power.
http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/ele/4320725340.html


----------



## astrallite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvrr*
> 
> Not sure if any of you guys are into DIY but if anyone is interested in a Class D amp Im selling mine. I decided it was a bad idea to keep running it open and with three other projects going it isn't getting done anytime soon. 125x2 for 8ohms, 250x2 for 4 ohms or 500x2 into 8 ohms bridged of nice clean power.
> http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/ele/4320725340.html


Is that a subwoofer amp? The kit doesn't even list a switching frequency, so I wonder if this is even a Class-D design meant to drive speakers.


----------



## hertz9753

http://classdaudio.com/amplifier-kits/cda-254l-kit.html

I will pass in that.


----------



## silvrr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *astrallite*
> 
> Is that a subwoofer amp? The kit doesn't even list a switching frequency, so I wonder if this is even a Class-D design meant to drive speakers.


Don't know the specifics on the design but yes a speaker amp. There are a lot of class d amps using this reference design as a base. In my research this was the best I found with great customer support.

Edit:
Based of the IRS2092S reference design with tweaks by Tom from Class D Audio. There are actually a lot of amps based off these designs ranging from ~$20 boards from china via e-bay to the Class D Audio versions which seem to be refined and well documented.
http://www.irf.com/technical-info/refdesigns/iraudamp7s.pdf


----------



## silvrr

I didn't want to clog this thread so I created another but would appreciate input:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1465026/proper-testing-and-reviews-reccomendations


----------



## phillyd

Figured I should share that you can split a line-level RCA signal using split adapters and run a line to speakers and a headphone amp with no (noticeable) signal degradation or issues. Even if both devices are on, there are no problems.
In my case, I'm splitting my Schiit Modi to my Vali and my speakers. Works great!


----------



## Rebelord

Just got some used Niles AT8700's that I am going to ceiling mount for the kitchen/living room since they share a open wall. Using a older Sony STR-DA3100ES to power them.
Ill get a pic tomorrow. Just have it all sitting on a table for initial testing.


----------



## givmedew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Figured I should share that you can split a line-level RCA signal using split adapters and run a line to speakers and a headphone amp with no (noticeable) signal degradation or issues. Even if both devices are on, there are no problems.
> In my case, I'm splitting my Schiit Modi to my Vali and my speakers. Works great!


I can confirm that there is no problem doing this that I have ever seen. If you have the ability to make cables you might want to make a custom cable that is split. I'd probably use all 4 conductors all the way to the start. Do 2 sets of twisted pair and untwist them where they split off. It will be cheaper and sound as good or better than anything you can buy especially considering the use of a splitter. Keep the gauge super thin and pay attention to preventing any corrosion if you are using copper. If you use silver you don't need to worry about corrosion at all (the corrosion doesn't cause audio issues like it does with copper).

If you haven't made cables before and you are doing this it might be a good time to play around with it if you think you are up to the challenge.

Just do some reading on several DIY cable making write ups. You want to read the point of view of several DIY people. Some will mention things that others forget. All in all though you could go on eBay and get a huge spool of silver, spool of very small gauge shrink wrap (goes around the silver), spool of small gauge shrink wrap (optionally goes around the multiple strands of silver), spool of sleeve (optionally goes around the finished products), and a little bit of medium shrink wrap (goes around the sleeve at the ends) cheap RCA terminations (solder on type), solder with silver in it (doesn't need to be expensive) and you can make a bunch of custom cable for the price of cheap cables that don't sound as good.

For longer runs pay attention to DIY recipes that have shielding but for short runs or medium runs that stay away from power cables or cross them at 90 degrees you don't need shielding. If you are going to build DIY cables DON'T build a shielded cable as your first cable.


----------



## Chucklez

Im in with my 2 KRK Rokit 5 White Editions!







Hopefully adding a Sub soon!


----------



## Magical Eskimo

Got some speaker stands for my SX60s


----------



## Diablosbud

Hey guys, I was wondering what you think about the KEF Q100? I want to find a cheap replacement (~$500) for my Paradigm Mini Monitor v.5's. I'm looking for deeper and tighter bass, a bit more warmth in the mid-range, and smoother treble. I like the Paradigms but feel for the price I could do better. I can get a pair for $450 CAD with free shipping. I will have them on stands and paired with my Energy ESW-C8 subwoofer.


----------



## Simca

Think about active speakers if you're wanting bass from the speakers themselves, though, I have to ask if you're actually pleased with your subwoofer as opposed to the speakers themselves. I have the Q300s and while they have a bit of mid bass, they're not exactly pumping out serious bass either. That should be left to the subwoofer and mine does an excellent job at that and doesn't make me want anymore bass from my speakers.


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> Think about active speakers if you're wanting bass from the speakers themselves, though, I have to ask if you're actually pleased with your subwoofer as opposed to the speakers themselves. I have the Q300s and while they have a bit of mid bass, they're not exactly pumping out serious bass either. That should be left to the subwoofer and mine does an excellent job at that and doesn't make me want anymore bass from my speakers.


Why would active speakers have more bass than passive? My Emotiva UPA-200 is more than capable of delivering proper bass response. I have my subwoofer turned down to try to keep a flat bass response. I dream about speakers that could produce ruler flat bass like my HE-400, but with my current space and money constraints that won't happen. The Paradigm's have slightly bloated bass that drops off quickly so it sounds wierd if I try to reinforce it with my subwoofer. The subwoofer with its 50W continuous amp is more than capable for the tiny room I'm in, it goes down to 40 Hz fairly strong. I feel my speakers are currently the weak point in my chain. Audioquest Dragonfly -> Emotiva UPA-200 -> Paradigm Mini Monitors and Energy ESW-C8.


----------



## hertz9753

Ruler flat bass?


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Ruler flat bass?


You know what I mean, like flat measuring. I'm obviously exagerrating a bit, it's hard to describe. http://www.innerfidelity.com/images/HiFiMANHE400.pdf


----------



## DrGroove

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Why would active speakers have more bass than passive? My Emotiva UPA-200 is more than capable of delivering proper bass response. I have my subwoofer turned down to try to keep a flat bass response. I dream about speakers that could produce ruler flat bass like my HE-400, but with my current space and money constraints that won't happen. The Paradigm's have slightly bloated bass that drops off quickly so it sounds wierd if I try to reinforce it with my subwoofer. The subwoofer with its 50W continuous amp is more than capable for the tiny room I'm in, it goes down to 40 Hz fairly strong. I feel my speakers are currently the weak point in my chain. Audioquest Dragonfly -> Emotiva UPA-200 -> Paradigm Mini Monitors and Energy ESW-C8.


Sounds like you need to introduce a crossover and get a decibel meter. They are pretty cheap and will let you figure out when your speakers bass starts to fall off, and adjust crossover and sub volume accordingly.


----------



## Simca

He400s are definitely not ruler flat.

Built in amps tend to work very well with bass response in active speakers.

Q100s definitely don't have bloated bass and by the sound of it much less than your current speakers. It probably has a nicer texture. It's lighter but better quality. Don't think it's what you're looking for.

Agree with post above as well.


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diablosbud*
> 
> Why would active speakers have more bass than passive? My Emotiva UPA-200 is more than capable of delivering proper bass response. I have my subwoofer turned down to try to keep a flat bass response. I dream about speakers that could produce ruler flat bass like my HE-400, but with my current space and money constraints that won't happen. The Paradigm's have slightly bloated bass that drops off quickly so it sounds wierd if I try to reinforce it with my subwoofer. The subwoofer with its 50W continuous amp is more than capable for the tiny room I'm in, it goes down to 40 Hz fairly strong. I feel my speakers are currently the weak point in my chain. Audioquest Dragonfly -> Emotiva UPA-200 -> Paradigm Mini Monitors and Energy ESW-C8.


You're just better going active than passive with monitors considering your budget.

Active designs are going to be specially designed so the amp matches the woofer(s) and tweeter(s) in the cabinet. Crossover points are already built into active monitors and were picked specifically by the people who made the active speaker...

Going passive, you could have a $2000 passive monitor, but pair it with a terrible amp and awful crossover settings and it's still going to sound ****ty.

My Mackie MR5MKiis have excellent bass response. I can hear all the way down to around ~38-40hz. Of course it's not a completely flat response that low down, but for 5.25" woofers it's pretty amazing. Compared to the 5.25" Alpine Type R's in my vehicle, the Mackies blow them away in mid bass and response. Obviously being in an enclosure greatly helps.

For the rest of the frequency range im missing, my 8" Sundown Audio E8v3 in a custom aero ported enclosure provides way more than enough bass for my studio (it's crossed @ 80hz). But It's not necessary to always have it on. Yes, songs sound "fuller" with the sub on (regardless of genre), but i can still greatlyenjoy music that isn't incredibly bass heavy without it.


----------



## Diablosbud

Well I already have a $300 amplifier for passive speakers, I don't really feel like selling it with a huge loss now. The HE-400's are about as flat as I could probably get short of an LCD-2, and I really don't feel like spending a fortune. I'm pretty satisfied with the equipment I have now, I just want a small upgrade to my speakers because I've been preferring my headphone setup to my much more expensive stereo







. I do think that active speakers would be a good idea because I suck at setting up the crossover as you stated, but what would I do with all of my equipment... LOL







. Anyway I turned up the crossover on my subwoofer and it's better now. I set it at 100 Hz because these are 5 1/2 inch driver speakers. I'm OCD about the bass not interferring with the mids and I guess I went overboard. I would still like to experience some new better speakers though, but I'm not really sure where to go from here.

Edit: I could move my current setup into my living room for movies and what-not. But I seriously doubt a ~$500 active systems will beat my $600 Paradigm Mini Monitors, $200 Energy ESW-C8 subwoofer, and $300 Emotiva UPA-200 amplifier. I'm looking at the Emotiva Airmotiv 5 Powered Speakers though, they look like they might be okay... whether it will beat my current setup I have no idea.


----------



## Simca

IMO, your Mini's are just fine. You need to fix your subwoofer. It's not set correctly.

For instance, mine is set correctly and I can almost barely distinguish the bass the subwoofer puts out from the speakers themselves because of how well the sound flows through my room. Some tones are obviously the subwoofer, especially 20hz, but 40-60hz that the subwoofer is taking care of instead of the speakers, blend seemlessly and almost sound like they're coming from the speakers themselves.


----------



## Diablosbud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Simca*
> 
> IMO, your Mini's are just fine. You need to fix your subwoofer. It's not set correctly.
> 
> For instance, mine is set correctly and I can almost barely distinguish the bass the subwoofer puts out from the speakers themselves because of how well the sound flows through my room. Some tones are obviously the subwoofer, especially 20hz, but 40-60hz that the subwoofer is taking care of instead of the speakers, blend seemlessly and almost sound like they're coming from the speakers themselves.


Thanks for the help guys. I'll grab a volume meter off of someone I know and get it set up properly. I'll also look up some guides about properly setting up the crossover at the same time.


----------



## Seanicy

Looking for some help. I got a surround sound system I need help appraising. Moving in with my girl and i have to get rid of it unfortunately ? I know I'm so sad. It's two welton pro studio 50" towers with 2x12" subs. Have also 3 12" bookshelf speakers. The system has a 5 disc dvd changer and 5.1 surround sound receiver, all Sony. Pictures are included. Any help getting this appraised would be great as I am not sure what to charge for a system like this. Thanks for any help.


----------



## saer

Upgraded my monitors to Adam A5X w/ IsoAcoustics stands


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saer*
> 
> Upgraded my monitors to Adam A5X w/ IsoAcoustics stands


Great speakers !
Got a pair myself to, the highs even though crystal clear might sound harsh at first but after a few hours they sound perfect IMO.

How are you going to hook them up ?


----------



## hatrix216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanicy*
> 
> Looking for some help. I got a surround sound system I need help appraising. Moving in with my girl and i have to get rid of it unfortunately ? I know I'm so sad. It's two welton pro studio 50" towers with 2x12" subs. Have also 3 12" bookshelf speakers. The system has a 5 disc dvd changer and 5.1 surround sound receiver, all Sony. Pictures are included. Any help getting this appraised would be great as I am not sure what to charge for a system like this. Thanks for any help.


Sorry to say, but nothing out of all that is really worth much value. The towers are super low grade PA speakers. Same applies to the "bookshelf" speakers.That brand seems to me like a "white van scam" brand and I could find almost nothing besides a rent-a-center link to a Welton Technical Pro 2500 watt rack system, but that itself looks like total bull. Quality is definitely on the bad side.

DVD player and receiver are also pretty worthless, especially the DVD player. The receiver isn't even capable of 1080p through HDMI, only 1080i, and because of the low bandwidth it also doesn't pass audio thru HDMI... which seems absolutely silly to me. It's definitely dated so it isn't going to be worth much, brand not helping.


----------



## jellybeans69

So sad that known mate of mine is selling these, if i didn't have crappy neighbours i'd be all over these customs he'd also throw in QSC RMX 1450 for free, drooling over these though i know i can't have them










RCF Nd350
Celestion 0818mr
RCF Lf15G401


----------



## billbartuska

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Figured I should share that you can split a line-level RCA signal using split adapters and run a line to speakers and a headphone amp with no (noticeable) signal degradation or issues. Even if both devices are on, there are no problems.
> In my case, I'm splitting my Schiit Modi to my Vali and my speakers. Works great!


I believe that plays havoc with impedance.


----------



## phillyd

Any opinions on the M-Audio BX5 D2's? Maybe in comparison to the Audio Engine A5+? Bass isn't a factor as I'm using a sub.
$100 per at guitar center right now!
http://www.guitarcenter.com/M-Audio-BX5-D2-Studio-Monitor--Each--109426767-i3226541.gc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billbartuska*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Figured I should share that you can split a line-level RCA signal using split adapters and run a line to speakers and a headphone amp with no (noticeable) signal degradation or issues. Even if both devices are on, there are no problems.
> In my case, I'm splitting my Schiit Modi to my Vali and my speakers. Works great!
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that plays havoc with impedance.
Click to expand...

It doesn't. Blind testing confirms no difference, even when the device not in use is powered on.

Got a good pic of my setup, figured I'd share!


----------



## vicyo

total noob question here:
Is it ok use those chinese (MUSE, SMSL, topping) 100~120W T-Amps to power my DS-37B? I am not looking for OMG AUDIOPHILE WOW! quality since I'm going to use then while cooking or watch some dvds.

Unfortunately I do not have space to use those that i already got and my budget is limited to 100USD.

DS-37B specs:
Rated input - 25W
Maximum input - 80W
impedance - 6ohms
12.5", 4" and 1.5" units
91dB/W


----------



## hertz9753

I have only heard of Topping.

http://www.parts-express.com/ Do a search on T-amps


----------



## hertz9753

http://audio-database.com/MITSUBISHI-DIATONE/diatoneds/ds-37b-e.html

If those are you speakers, you will be fine with a T-amp.


----------



## bumblebee1980

I just noticed Ascend Acoustics has a new bookshelf speaker called the Sierra-2





edit: if these are anything like the Sierra towers they will make great Front channels in a home theater.


----------



## xxToranachxx

I would like to join.



Denon 1705 + Polk audio Rm series and powered sub. This used to be the home theater at my parent's old house. It was given to me when they moved out. Not the best setup but its pretty awesome to me.


----------



## Sazexa

Finally set up my speakers. Bought a Marantz NR1604 as the receiver. Quite happy, with my set up. These perform pretty damn well for budget speakers.


----------



## TheNegotiator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Finally set up my speakers. Bought a Marantz NR1604 as the receiver. Quite happy, with my set up. These perform pretty damn well for budget speakers.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice setup! I've always been a fan of Klipsch speakers. Is that TV a LG 55LM6700?


----------



## Sazexa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNegotiator*
> 
> Nice setup! I've always been a fan of Klipsch speakers. Is that TV a LG 55LM6700?


Close! 47LM6700.

My favorite part of the TV is that the smart phone app let's me screen shot. Sadly it only records the image in a lower quality, and resolution of somethig like 600p.


----------



## phillyd

I was wondering, what would be smarter. Spend $400 on a subwoofer with crossover (small room, maybe 16x16x9) to pair with my AudioengineA5+, or sell them, save a bit and buy KRK Rokit 10's.

I'm a bit of a basshead and if you take away good impact and extension I will be a sad sad man.


----------



## TheNegotiator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazexa*
> 
> Close! 47LM6700.
> 
> My favorite part of the TV is that the smart phone app let's me screen shot. Sadly it only records the image in a lower quality, and resolution of somethig like 600p.


I never have been able to get the app to work with mine, I had no idea it could do that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I was wondering, what would be smarter. Spend $400 on a subwoofer with crossover (small room, maybe 16x16x9) to pair with my AudioengineA5+, or sell them, save a bit and buy KRK Rokit 10's.
> 
> I'm a bit of a basshead and if you take away good impact and extension I will be a sad sad man.


You'd certainly have more bass if you stuck with the AudioengineA5+ and got something like a KRK 12sHO or 12s subwoofer. I haven't critically listened to either speaker before but based on the few times I've heard them, I found the KRK's more pleasing to my ears.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNegotiator*
> 
> You'd certainly have more bass if you stuck with the AudioengineA5+ and got something like a KRK 12sHO or 12s subwoofer. I haven't critically listened to either speaker before but based on the few times I've heard them, I found the KRK's more pleasing to my ears.


I don't JUST want more bass. I would like a system that sounds good together. I want a smooth transition between the low-mids and the bass. I know the Rokit 10's would do that but if they don't kick well then it isn't worth it.


----------



## TheNegotiator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I don't JUST want more bass. I would like a system that sounds good together. I want a smooth transition between the low-mids and the bass. I know the Rokit 10's would do that but if they don't kick well then it isn't worth it.


I thought they had plenty of bass. Of course, sound is subjective. If you can find a place to demo the Rokits that would of course be ideal. Based on the setups I've heard, the Rokits seemed to have a flatter FR while the AudioEngines seemed to have a slight mid-bass boost. I heard the Rokits in a show room and the AudioEngines at a friends house, so it's not exactly a direct comparison.


----------



## phillyd

I'll see if guitar center has them.


----------



## phillyd

I picked up a pair of M-Audio BX8 D2 for $300 at guitar center. They're $700 a pair on amazon!


Sorry for potato quality.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I picked up a pair of M-Audio BX8 D2 for $300 at guitar center. They're $700 a pair on amazon!
> 
> 
> Sorry for potato quality.


Dude, use your antique sound labs amp as a preamp.

MOAR WARMTH!!!!!!!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I picked up a pair of M-Audio BX8 D2 for $300 at guitar center. They're $700 a pair on amazon!
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, use your antique sound labs amp as a preamp.
> 
> MOAR WARMTH!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

I probably will until my new DAC arrives. Bought the Sabre SPDIF DAC


----------



## Tiihokatti

Got some old "junk", Audiowell A-102 speakers (from 1998) and AKAI AM-2200 stereo amplifier (from 1975).
The amp may be broken but I'll test it first.

EDIT: Yup, looks like the amp is broken. Sound crackles pretty badly no matter what I do, kinda like my very (cheap) old stereo that broke.
I wonder if something as cheap as Lepai is enough to power the speakers (100W/8ohm). The old amp doesn't seem to be that powerful either.


----------



## hertz9753

What speakers do you have?


----------



## davcc22

am i in this club if not i have a stereo for my speakers i did have a subwaofa but the amp blew and money dont allow for a new one (stuff that my room is tiny and it got annoying too much bass and other issues) ill post the model up when i can be bothered climbing under my desk  

and yes it was a dumpster dive find


----------



## JKuhn

I almost asked what that thing did to you to deserve your fist.









The member list doesn't get updated anymore, but that setup does meet the requirements so as far as I'm concerned you're in.


----------



## davcc22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> I almost asked what that thing did to you to deserve your fist.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The member list doesn't get updated anymore, but that setup does meet the requirements so as far as I'm concerned you're in.


cool


----------



## phillyd

Been using the "headphone" (analog pot) output on my HifimeDIY Sabre SPDIF DAC to source my M-Audio BX8-D2. It's a great improvement over the previous sources (iBasso D-Zero, Beyerdynamic A200P) which only could volume control through amp output. It's much clearer, smoother and a bit warm.

The SPDIF DAC and the Sabre DAC 2 are both good for speaker and headphone users. Line level to go to an amp, and an analog pot for your speakers.


----------



## R4V3N

Still waiting on having the time to repair the bass cone on my gaming rig speakers. Only just found a related page. Very heavy, very small speakers, in white to match my rig. General Sound Micron 423s. Working on fixing a hole in a woofer surround, resealing and repainting the cabs. I'll need a sub, but at least I'll have the option of no headset


----------



## phillyd

I'll be replacing my M-Audio BX8-D2 due to:
Too much treble
Overly analytical (not smooth)
Not enough sub bass
No warmth

I'll be getting a Denon AVR-S500BT, a pair of Polk TSX220B and a PSW125 both in cherry wood to replace them. Getting hefty discounts on all of it.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'll be replacing my M-Audio BX8-D2 due to:
> Too much treble
> Overly analytical (not smooth)
> Not enough sub bass
> No warmth
> 
> I'll be getting a Denon AVR-S500BT, a pair of Polk TSX220B and a PSW125 both in cherry wood to replace them. Getting hefty discounts on all of it.


Where are buying the Polks from? I tried the PSW125 sub and didn't like it. It can work with smaller speakers though.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'll be replacing my M-Audio BX8-D2 due to:
> Too much treble
> Overly analytical (not smooth)
> Not enough sub bass
> No warmth
> 
> I'll be getting a Denon AVR-S500BT, a pair of Polk TSX220B and a PSW125 both in cherry wood to replace them. Getting hefty discounts on all of it.


How much are you paying for everything?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Where are buying the Polks from? I tried the PSW125 sub and didn't like it. It can work with smaller speakers though.


I wasn't a fan of it either. I returned it after about two weeks of trying it out. It's more of a home theater sub and not musical enough for me.

I'd say there are better subs at that price point, but you're getting all of it at a discounted price.


----------



## hertz9753

I use a Mirage Omni S8 for my computer. It's tight on goes pretty low for an 8" sub. An older Onkyo 603 receiver and modded Optimus Pro 77 speakers round out that system.


----------



## phillyd

I'll be paying under $400 for everything.


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> I use a Mirage Omni S8 for my computer. It's tight on goes pretty low for an 8" sub. An older Onkyo 603 receiver and modded Optimus Pro 77 speakers round out that system.


I'm using a HSU STF-1. I love the little thing, well it's big for an 8 inch sub.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'll be paying under $400 for everything.


That's a steal. Especially since all of them are relatively newly released products.

I just recently bought a Sony STR-DH540 for $50 on clearance. It was time to upgrade the living room's receiver anyway. I wanted to use it for my room, but I have limited space for it.


----------



## phillyd

Tbh I'll probably sell the psw125 after a while and grab an svs sb1000.

So my friend has some awesome old Cerwin Vegas. They need to have the surrounds replaced...I'm gonna see what his dad is wanting to do with them. I might try to buy them off of him.


----------



## hertz9753

I would pass on the Cerwin Vegas. Monoprice should have surrounds if you do buy them.

Did you get get your new gear?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> I would pass on the Cerwin Vegas. Monoprice should have surrounds if you do buy them.
> 
> Did you get get your new gear?


I need to wait for my best buy discount to kick in. Less than two weeks! If I buy those cerwin vega speakers, it will be for very cheap.


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I need to wait for my best buy discount to kick in. Less than two weeks! If I buy those cerwin vega speakers, it will be for very cheap.


Also buy your cables from monoprice.









I still have my Polk Monitor 70's and those modded computer speakers have Monitor 30 tweeters in them. They are the same tweeters. Polk probably used the same tweeter in the speakers that you are going to buy and that is a good thing.

I have many Polk speakers that are not in my sig.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Also buy your cables from monoprice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still have my Polk Monitor 70's and those modded computer speakers have Monitor 30 tweeters in them. They are the same tweeters. Polk probably used the same tweeter in the speakers that you are going to buy and that is a good thing.
> 
> I have many Polk speakers that are not in my sig.


I'll be getting dynex/rocketfish/insignia cables from now on. My discount on those will be ridiculous. Most stuff should end up cheaper than Monoprice due to shipping. Thanks for the suggestions on the surrounds too though.


----------



## Midnite8

Anyone here have a Temblor T10 sub?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> Anyone here have a Temblor T10 sub?[/quote
> 
> I will guess no.
> 
> Why would you need that sub?


----------



## scottath

Hey guys,

Looking to pick up a sub soon to complement my recent addition of a pair of Swan T200b speakers.
Ive been recommended a SVS SB1000 a while ago, but havent had the chance to act on the advice.

From what i understand, the SB1000 (sealed) is better than the PB1000 (ported) for music, and the PB1000 is better for movies/rumble.
I have half a thought to buy both.....but maybe not the intention to outlay that much money on this.

I live at home atm, and the setup will be used in my room for primarily music (4*3m room) - however the T200b and my former speakers (Swan D1080mkII 08's) will be used most likely in a HT sort setup (likely small room/apartment room) when i do end up moving out.

Audio profile:
85% Music, 10% Game music, 5% movies/TV shows
Music: Pop: 80's/90's/00's, Acoustic sessions, with a smattering of other genres.
Love the bright/mid details from the T200b's, especially with acoustic guitars and the ambiance/sound stage they give - especially with live recordings.
The just lack a bit in the lower end, especially at normal listening levels. If i push them rather hard they are awesome and tend to be adequate for bass.

Keen for suggestions,

Thanks.


----------



## aksthem1

Sealed subwoofers are usually better for music. The SVS SB1000 is still going to pack quite a punch and be a major difference from the bass on your Swans. That being said the PB1000 while only being 10 inch can go down much lower due to a bigger cabinet too. You can seal up the port with a piece of foam to have a more controlled sounding bass.


----------



## Skink910

Hey Guys,

I just built a rig for myself and the next step for me is some speakers and I am looking for some input from people who have listened to many of these speakers as I am having a hard time finding them in order to listen to them myself.

*Audio Profile*: 60% Gaming, 25% Music (A lot of country/country rock with the occasional techno/house when I need something a little more upbeat), 15% Movies/TV

*What I've been looking at*: PSB Alpha PS1 (eventually w/ sub), B&W MM-1, Audioengine A2+ (eventually w/ sub), Simple Audio Listen (eventually w/ sub)

I was looking at the Audioengine A5+ but they would be too big physically for the desk setup that I am currently using, so size is somewhat of a concern but not a huge deal as I should be able to fit most bookshelf sized speakers.

Any help is greatly appreciated!


----------



## phillyd

It's gonna be a bit but I switched around my choices. I'll have the Polk Tsx220B bookshelves in cherry, the DSW 440wi sub, and a Denon AVR-S500BT.

*EDIT:* Purchased the speakers, they're coming soon! Gonna purchase the receiver tomorrow!


----------



## reflex99

ordered a Schiit Modi to accompany my low end speaker setup.

Speakers: Polk T300, according to polk these don't exist, must have been a best buy special. Anyways, they're nothing interesting, just some average bookshelfs.

Sub: Polk PSW505, probably wayyyy overkill for these speakers, but I listen to like EDM pretty much exclusively so I don't mind (particularly stuff with heavy melodic bass lines).

Receiver: Sony STR-DH130, again, pretty generic, but the sub powers the speakers, so the quality of the receiver is not too important I guess. Doesn't have many features but it works. I used to have a vintage JVC (built in 1988) that i feel sounded nicer, but it started to become crackly and noisy, so i swapped it out.

DAC: Schiit Modi (duh). Never had a sound card other than whatever onboard chip was there, so I'm excited. Hopefully my setup isn't too bad and Ill be able to notice a difference.

I'm in college, and don't have tons of disposable money to spend right now, so I make do.


----------



## phillyd

The sub doesn't power the speakers. If you have the speaker wire running through the sub, all that's doing is sourcing the subwoofer. Either way the setup should sound pretty good. Congrats!


----------



## hertz9753

Polk T300's are also known as Monitor 30's.









http://www.polkaudio.com/products/monitor30


----------



## reflex99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The sub doesn't power the speakers. If you have the speaker wire running through the sub, all that's doing is sourcing the subwoofer. Either way the setup should sound pretty good. Congrats!


Woo! I didn't totally screw up buying audio equipment!

I know this is wrong, but I'm gonna fix it once i get the DAC: currently it goes:

Macbook 1/8" out --> RCA line in on Sony ---> L/R speaker out ---(speaker wire)--> PSW505-(speaker wire)-->T300s

pretty sure I wasn't supposed to use speaker wire between the receiver and the sub, but it performs ok I guess? Ill fix it when the DAC comes and use an RCA cable. Please don't burn me at the stake.

Future I think?:

MBP--->USB DAC--->receiver--(RCA cable) --> PSW505-(speaker wire)-->T300s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> Polk T300's are also known as Monitor 30's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.polkaudio.com/products/monitor30


who woulda guessed


----------



## hertz9753

I'm a Polk guy.



That is my desktop rig with Polk Monitor 70 tweeters and 5.25' woofers from pair of Polk T15's that came from BB.

They are the same tweeters in the Monitor 30's with a different bezel. I kwow because switched to Monitor 30 tweeters and it was the same number on the back.

I own quite a few Polk speakers...


----------



## atarione

Got me some stereo stuff hooked up to my pc

sound device(s) FiiO E07K/E09K, Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 and FiiO D03K (hooked up to optical out on Gigabyte Z87 motherboard).

Receivers /amps hooked up to pc : Pioneer SX-3600 , Kenwood KR-V106R and Pioneer VSX-D1S (monster amp) and also a little SMSL SA-S3 t-amp.

Speeakers Monitor Audio Silver S1, NHT SuperZero, DCM Timeframe TF250, Realistic Minimus 77 and optimus Pro X5's


----------



## alcal

I have no pictures of all of it together but my "budget" high-volume speaker setup is a pair of Sansui SP-z99's (craigslist) on a Radioshack 250w PA amplifier with a Polk PSW505 helping the lows. Gotta say I love it--the vintage Sansui's look and sound awesome, even if they aren't considered "audiophile" and the PSW505 has knocked glasses off of shelves on a couple occasions.


----------



## hertz9753

For those of you that don't know, Optimus was sold by Radio Shack. My Polk's are in Pro 77 's and I still have pair of LX's. I killed one the tweeters on the LX's when I was cleaning. Bi-pole ribbon tweeter RIP.


----------



## JKuhn

I just bought some second-hand speakers to replace my Pro-Linear bookshelves and HTIB sub:

3 x Sony SS-SRP15 (only using 2, temporarily in front)
1 x Sony SS-CNP15
2 x Sony SS-MFP15 tower (temporarily surround, I'm planning to move them to the front)
2 x Sony SA-wp1500 sub (only using one as my receiver is 7.1 ch)

I'm not sure how it'll sound with the towers as my main speakers, but I guess I'll find out. I couldn't find any info on them though, how are they?


----------



## R4V3N

If you look up "Sony HTDDW1500 MU.TE.KI" you can find some reviews


----------



## senna89

Excuse me guys, I read some users feedbacks where they said that Audioengine A2+ produces more bass than other bigger product like Maudio AV40 and Presonus E4.5, is it true ?


----------



## aksthem1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Excuse me guys, I read some users feedbacks where they said that Audioengine A2+ produces more bass than other bigger product like Maudio AV40 and Presonus E4.5, is it true ?


Looking at the tech specs alone says the frequency response is already better in the A2+, then after looking at the frequency response curves the A2+ does seem to produce more bass. I've only ever heard the M-Audio AV40 out of the three you mentioned and it does lack bass.

What are you going to be using the speakers for?


----------



## senna89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aksthem1*
> 
> Looking at the tech specs alone says the frequency response is already better in the A2+, then after looking at the frequency response curves the A2+ does seem to produce more bass. I've only ever heard the M-Audio AV40 out of the three you mentioned and it does lack bass.
> 
> What are you going to be using the speakers for?


gaming, almost 95%.
But i am not a fan of strong bass, usually i keep subwoofer to minimum, but i want the bass !

So.... im looking for a stereo capable to replace also subwoofer, i do not pretend a 100% replacing but major part.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I guess I can join this club w/ my Monitor 40's (remainder of the audio setup is in the FrankenDesk in sig)


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Snell J3 woofer

magnepan 2.5 tweeter

Dynakit mark IV amp

win.


----------



## phillyd

Anybody have any suggestions for sound dampening foam? My speakers are now in an area with a wall <5' behind the ideal listening location. I was hoping for something cheap that doesn't look like junk.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Anybody have any suggestions for sound dampening foam? My speakers are now in an area with a wall <5' behind the ideal listening location. I was hoping for something cheap that doesn't look like junk.


For sound treatment I usually just go to walmart or target and get some bed foam. You can find it for cheap and better yet is you can spray paint it black to make it look professional.


----------



## TheNegotiator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> For sound treatment I usually just go to walmart or target and get some bed foam. You can find it for cheap and better yet is you can spray paint it black to make it look professional.


Walmart bed foam won't do much. Build a frame for OC 703 rigid insulation boards and cover them in burlap in the color of your choice.


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNegotiator*
> 
> Walmart bed foam won't do much. Build a frame for OC 703 rigid insulation boards and cover them in burlap in the color of your choice.


That's relative.

Compared to professional foam, yeah it is not great.

Compared to bare walls, it works just fine.

Your solution is not a bad one either, but it takes a fair amount of work to get it right, and the results are not going to be a heck of a lot better (functionally speaking) then basic egg crate foam.

My solution works well for your every day regular person who just wants to get good sound with minimal money and minimal effort.

Your solution is definitely better, but only if someone wants to put in the time and energy to do it right.


----------



## JKuhn

Since this thread is active again, what influence does a knotty pine ceiling have on a room's accoustics?


----------



## MR KROGOTH

Can I get added?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1512556/my-experience-in-refoaming-surrounds-vintage-kenwood-kl-a900-5-way-cabinets


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR KROGOTH*
> 
> Can I get added?
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1512556/my-experience-in-refoaming-surrounds-vintage-kenwood-kl-a900-5-way-cabinets


The membership list is no longer being maintained, just pretend you're on the list.









EDIT: Do you know the frequency range for those speakers? I'm curious since most people those days used LPs and they don't have the range of modern digital sources.


----------



## MR KROGOTH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> The membership list is no longer being maintained, just pretend you're on the list.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Do you know the frequency range for those speakers? I'm curious since most people those days used LPs and they don't have the range of modern digital sources.




There ya go.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MR KROGOTH*
> 
> 
> 
> There ya go.


Impressive...


----------



## MR KROGOTH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> Impressive...


Certainly. Most people don't believe in 80's cabinet design, but the thread details my thoughts on them.
Just like being in a concert, having the band right in front of me.


----------



## JKuhn

I bought another TEK DK-8008 system (full set this time) for my parents, and I might be able to swap the speakers. I noticed that the TEK speakers can be bi-amped, is this worth it?

And also, the TEK amp is rated 8-16 ohms, but the Sony speakers (in my sig) are 6. Is this a problem with moderate volume for tv use? The TEK is discrete, if that's important.

Oh, and I already tried the TEK speakers on my setup, I'm amazed by their sound.


----------



## JKuhn

Update: For some reason the TEK speakers won't work well with the TEK receiver.







So now I'm using them, and they're WAY better than the Sony ones. What's the chance of these speakers being a rebrand of a good OEM?

Link to 2012 ad


----------



## phillyd

Hey guys I wrote a little review for my comparison of the Pioneer SP-FS52 and SP-EFS73 speakers.

Before I start, I will tell you about the setup that was used for all testing. I used a Marantz TT42P turntable and (at minimum) CD Quality lossless from my Lenovo Y40, carried HDMI out to the receiver. The towers were placed about 10 feet apart, greater than 6 feet from any walls to the sides, and about 3-foot from the wall behind. I sat dead center, about 10 foot from each speaker. Some toe-in was used to place the seating area in the tweeters' sweet spots. The speakers were crossed over to a Klipsch R-12SW subwoofer at 60Hz

A few months ago, a good friend of mine started raving about the reviews he had read about Andrew Jones' budget designs for Pioneer. At the time, I was running a pair of Polk Tsx220B bookshelf speakers out of a Denon AVR-S500BT. I loved this setup, but the price of the Pioneer Towers ($260/pair) tempted me, an I went up to my local Best Buy to purchase a pair.

I discovered that the FS52's were severely underrated VERY quickly. I also realized that my entry level Denon was struggling, so I did some shopping around and found a deal on a Marantz SR5009 receiver. After getting my taxes in, I went to a nearby Best Buy with a Magnolia and saw that they had Andrew Jones' Pioneer Elite offerings in stock. My receiver did not have the ability to take advantage of the Atmos drivers, but I thought I'd see how the SP-EFS73 towers compared to their budget brethren. The day after I brought the Elite towers home, my new receiver arrived, so I set everything up and began listening.

I saw a major improvement over the Denon+FS52 combo. As they broke in, I saw the benefit of the extra bass driver and the unified sound of the concentric mid driver/tweeter. However, I had not heard the SP-FS52's on the new Marantz, and I knew that they would see some improvement, so I hooked them up in the Zone 2 outputs, and began playing music while switching from set A to set B.

I was shocked to find that overall the FS52 sounded nearly as good as the EFS73. The first thing I noticed was that the EFS73 had a lower soundstage. By lower, I literally mean in elevation. It sounded as if the sound was coming from slightly below where the tweeters were located. The FS52 sounded a bit taller, but really it was just a difference. The next thing I noticed was that the EFS73 seemed more transparant. It seemed that the FS52 needed a little extra dampening, as some frequencies suffered from minimal spikes or cuts. This was only apparent when listening to a repetitive part of a song and switching back and forth. The biggest improvement was with voices. The EFS73 sounded more natural on some voices including RHCP's Anthony Kiedis and Bob Seger. There was just a bit more of that throaty, gritty sound. There was also a bit less of the high-midrange (which I prefer to be quite relaxed) which becomes apparent in higher female vocals.

In some ways, I actually preferred the FS52. When running them without a subwoofer, they seemed to extend better on the low end and showed a bit more impact. They also seemed to blend better with my subwoofer (Klipsch R-12SW), especially in songs like Sia's Elastic Heart, Bon Iver's Minnesota WI and Massive Attack's Intertia Creeps.

I also played a few movies and found that the higher soundstage of the FS52 placed voices more accurately. This wouldn't be an issue for either set if they were in a 5.1 setup, but it is worth noting.

If I were to pick between the sets, ignoring atmos and pricing, I would absolutely pick the Elites. They aren't better in every way, but they are the better speakers (as expected) overall by a good margin.

Overall, I don't see the EFS73 as underperforming or being overpriced (at about $1400/pair). I see the FS52 as being an INCREDIBLY good bargain. I believe that they sound better than the Klipsch Reference Towers, and even better than the Martin Logan Motion 20's. The Pioneer offerings might make more sense if a slightly nicer cabinet was used and the FS52's were priced around $600/pair. I have already packed up the EFS73, and they will be going back to Best Buy, as I cannot justify spending as much as I did on a relatively small upgrade.

I hope you all enjoyed the read!


----------



## hertz9753

@phillyd Thank you for the the review.


----------



## minhmap1088

You have the wonderful techno speakers. Larger than your room, it can be make harmful to your ears.


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minhmap1088*
> 
> You have the wonderful techno speakers. Larger than your room, it can be make harmful to your ears.


Nice necro.









On a more serious note, welcome to OCN.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Wow forgot all about this thread lol, did just get a new (to me) receiver that has breathed new life into my Polk Monitor 40's (Pioneer VSX-520), had to order the remote for it but I didn't check to ensure it was in English


----------



## hertz9753

Coming from China should have tipped you off with that remote.


----------



## DarthBaggins

yeah but at least it works properly, just figured it out with good ole button mashing lol. Also couldn't beat the $15 price vs $53 from pioneer


----------



## bumblebee1980

not sure how I feel about cheap remotes. I see some companies including Apple remotes or have the IR receiver but not remote like a BYOR policy meanwhile Emotiva includes a remote made out of machined aluminum built to last the apocalypse


----------



## DarthBaggins

Here's the one I got for $15,
[
/CENTER]

wish I could find a replacement for my Rotel pre amp (the previous owner abused the hell out of it) I've had to repair it a couple of times (clean connections and replace a battery connection plate)

Also been debating on snagging another pair of speakers (debating between powered or passive) I was looking at some Kanto's, but been keeping an eye out for a decent deal on some good B&W bookshelf passives


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> Here's the one I got for $15,
> [
> /CENTER]
> 
> wish I could find a replacement for my Rotel pre amp (the previous owner abused the hell out of it) I've had to repair it a couple of times (clean connections and replace a battery connection plate)
> 
> Also been debating on snagging another pair of speakers (debating between powered or passive) I was looking at some Kanto's, but been keeping an eye out for a decent deal on some good B&W bookshelf passives


B&W has great sound, but they're way too expensive for me. I'm sticking with my TEK speakers that suprisingly also sound very good.


----------



## DarthBaggins

The price point on the b&w's is why I'm waiting to find them for a steal if I can. Also I've looked at the new Polk Monitor 45's, very tempting to get but would like to hear them first


----------



## bumblebee1980

I have been recommending HTD Level Three towers for years!!!

http://www.htd.com/Products/level-three-speakers/Level-THREE-Tower-Speakers



these speakers are fairly neutral and sound better than any Polk speaker I have heard. HTS did a shootout years ago and they held their own against Magnepan, Focal, Klipsch









I don't have any experience with the HTD Level Three and Level Two bookshelf speakers but I suggest taking a look at them

http://www.htd.com/Products/level-three-speakers/Level-THREE-Bookshelf-Speakers
http://www.htd.com/Products/level-two-speakers/Level-TWO-Bookshelf-Speakers

this guy seems to like them which isn't too hard to believe considering how great I remember the Level Three Towers were for the money














oh yeah, HTD has a pretty good return policy too

http://www.htd.com/Risk-Free-In-Home-Trial/guarantee

I challenge any Polkies here


----------



## hertz9753

Did somebody call me?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Those look nice, they have some wall mount speakers that look good. Also was thinking of getting a center channel instead of my rear channel as I have some speakers that could temp in a rear channel setting (wall mounts would be better considering the space I have, but I could make any bookshelf a "wall mount lol).


----------



## hertz9753

I have a Polk CSR, CS2 and Infinity PC250 that I'm not using but they are all black and you only like the cherry ones.


----------



## alltheGHz

How high of a risk do I run if I decide to mod my amp? Lepai 2020A+


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> How high of a risk do I run if I decide to mod my amp? Lepai 2020A+


About $25. What do want to mod?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> I have a Polk CSR, CS2 and Infinity PC250 that I'm not using but they are all black and you only like the cherry ones.


Well I was think the center could be black as it would be on my desk and everything on my desk is mainly black. Also I could always paint the 40's lol (it's a PITA to have cherry speakers since it costs more for them vs a standard black)


----------



## alltheGHz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> About $25. What do want to mod?


Not exactly sure yet. I replaced the god awful blue leds with white ones just for fun, but I've read that people change out the capacitors for better sound quality.


----------



## t1337dude

Consider me in the club. I've had my Philharmonitor BMR's with custom Salk veener for about 4 months now. I'm in love with them.





Anyone who wants a pair of highly accurate yet affordable speakers at varying price points, I highly recommend checking out Philharmonic Audio's offerings. Dennis, who runs it, is a wizard of a speaker designer whose work seems to be more like something he does to keep himself busy rather than maintain a highly profitable business. After the discount he gave me (for being a repeat customer), I'm not even convinced that he made any profit building these for me.

I also own a pair of his Affordable Accuracy monitors, which are by far the most accurate sounding speakers I've heard for under $450 (yet cost only $200). Deepest bass I've ever heard in a bookshelf too (with decent bass output as low 34Hz). Basically Dennis takes the Dayton Audio BR-1 kit from Parts Express, assembles the speakers with an upgraded crossover, and sells them for a measly $15 more. They crush the KRK Rokit 8 G2's which I used to own.


----------



## Mikecdm

Those are some beautiful speakers.


----------



## senna89

Excuse me guys

*Anyone know the Eve SC204 ?*
How is compared to the famous Adam A3x and Eve SC204 ?

Im looking for a musical sound, smooth and forgive, not a too analytic studio sound.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *senna89*
> 
> Excuse me guys
> 
> *Anyone know the Eve SC204 ?*
> How is compared to the famous Adam A3x and Eve SC204 ?
> 
> Im looking for a musical sound, smooth and forgive, not a too analytic studio sound.


I did listen to them and decided to get Adams.
Those Eve's are good speakers though, you should listen to both yourself and make your own decision.


----------



## GeneO

OK. How do you all feel about Vanatoo T1 powered speakers. They sound pretty good to me but I see no mention of them here in this forum.


----------



## Farih

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeneO*
> 
> OK. How do you all feel about Vanatoo T1 powered speakers. They sound pretty good to me but I see no mention of them here in this forum.


The Vanatoo's have been mentioned and recommended alot on this forum tbh.

I havent listened to them myself but since its cheaper and has a DAC inside i reckon the sound quality wont come near to the Adams or Eve's

Vanatoo's are 499$
Adam A3x are 700$
Adams with same size speakers as the Vanatoo's (A5x) cost 1100$

Its probably not fair to compare them.


----------



## NFF

so as you can see in my signiture i'v moved up in the speaker world.
my pc system consists of JBL LSR 305's
my tv setup consists of Paradigm Monitor 9 V1's and Paradigm Mini Monitors with a Polk PSW 10 sub to even it all out. with period correct amplification in the shape of a Nikko NR520 reciver.


----------



## Skillers Inc

I just picked up some Definitive Technology BP 8040 ST's and a Pioneer VSX 90 and they rock the house! I can't wait until I get the rest of my pieces in so I can start watching all the concerts I have on DVD again with some real sound.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Those Pioneer receivers are no joke, love my older vsx-520


----------



## The Pook

With a wimpy Lepai LP-2020a+ is there any reason to upgrade my AudioSource LS100s? The Lepai is unmodded except for a better power brick (12v/5a) but not sure if I should ditch the Lepai or the AudioSource's first ...


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Hi guys I'm tried to build a good sounding speaker/ sub setup for cheap.

All electronics ready (not tested), just need the box now.

What do you guys think of this?






Should I worried about sound leaking thru the gaps between the 2 parts?


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> Hi guys I'm tried to build a good sounding speaker/ sub setup for cheap.
> 
> All electronics ready (not tested), just need the box now.
> 
> What do you guys think of this?
> 
> Should I worried about sound leaking thru the gaps between the 2 parts?


What are you building this out of? If using wood, using wood glue on the joints should prevent air leakage, could use a little bit of caulking along the inside edges too to guarantee that. If you are using something else like plastic or metal, as long as the edges are all cleanly cut straight, they should provide a pretty good seal, but sticking a thin layer of double-sided tape between the joins could help.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

MDF wood. I'll have it built by a carpenter friend.

Sorry I haven't explained it clearly, but the box has 2 parts that can be extended and collapsed.

I wanted it to be portable, so I can fold it up and put it in a bag, and I can pull it out and extend it for better sounding bass.

So I'm just wondering if the tiny gap between the 2 movable piece is going to cause problems or not.


----------



## axipher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLAWNOOB*
> 
> MDF wood. I'll have it built by a carpenter friend.
> 
> Sorry I haven't explained it clearly, but the box has 2 parts that can be extended and collapsed.
> 
> I wanted it to be portable, so I can fold it up and put it in a bag, and I can pull it out and extend it for better sounding bass.
> 
> So I'm just wondering if the tiny gap between the 2 movable piece is going to cause problems or not.


Well if you want it to be collapsible, I would make the edges actually tapered to better ensure a good seal.


----------



## TheLAWNOOB

Thanks, I already told my friend to make sure it fits tightly.

Let's hope he is good at what he does.


----------



## caenlen

$119 for the monoprice studio speakers, they never been this cheap before. http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=605500&seq=1&format=2 grabbed me a pair for my desktop pc

How do I plug this into my PC? I have a sound card in the PC creative soundblaster my sound card is pictured below, so what cables do i need to buy?


----------



## JKuhn

It looks like you'll need a 3.5mm (1/8") to dual 6.3mm (1/4") cable.

I have one, so I'll post a picture soon.

EDIT:


----------



## hertz9753

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=644

http://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7139

That is my guess or a combo of both on the cable.


----------



## caenlen

thanks, I grabbed this one here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> thanks, I grabbed this one here. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005HGM1D6/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


That should work considering it lists two power chords so each speaker must have its own amp and input..


----------



## caenlen

how do i get a balanced connection with xlr cables? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000068OEP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they say here that this one is not balanced because its split. so do i need just use tsr to 3.5mm? https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CMP159-Stereo-Breakout-10-Feet/dp/B005HGM1D6/ref=pd_bxgy_23_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=ZDEQ4AGMNGJZWN3P6M01 or single xlr to 3.5mm and just plug http://puu.sh/pdLfk/9a20e781b0.jpg into pre out or line out individually since each speaker is powered individually


----------



## JKuhn

To get a balanced signal the source must also be balanced. The sound card is not, so it will be unbalanced.

I doubt it'll be a problem for you though. As I understand it's more of a problem in a professional setup where the cables can pick up a lot of interference.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKuhn*
> 
> To get a balanced signal the source must also be balanced. The sound card is not, so it will be unbalanced.
> 
> I doubt it'll be a problem for you though. As I understand it's more of a problem in a professional setup where the cables can pick up a lot of interference.


+rep thanks mate


----------



## hertz9753

None of my pre amps or receivers have balanced outputs. You have to go a little higher on the food chain for that.

I do have an older Onkyo 603 with a pair of Polk T15's and a Mirage Omni S8 sub for my daily rig. It uses the stock MB sound with toslink out to the receiver that uses it's own DAC. Nobody ever gives me fake +reps...


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> None of my pre amps or receivers have balanced outputs. You have to go a little higher on the food chain for that.
> 
> I do have an older Onkyo 603 with a pair of Polk T15's and a Mirage Omni S8 sub for my daily rig. It uses the stock MB sound with toslink out to the receiver that uses it's own DAC. Nobody ever gives me fake +reps...










wasn't a fake rep... he helped explain something to me...


----------



## hertz9753

But I wanted fake +rep. Try to give me a rep. Have fun with your new audio.


----------



## caenlen

so here is the back of my subwoofer. i plug in right speaker witht that weird dvi looking thing, then left speaker is yellow. then aucillary at top is empty. could i plug in my monoprice studio monitor speakers into thsoe that i have coming? and have a 4.1 setup?


----------



## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> so here is the back of my subwoofer. i plug in right speaker witht that weird dvi looking thing, then left speaker is yellow. then aucillary at top is empty. could i plug in my monoprice studio monitor speakers into thsoe that i have coming? and have a 4.1 setup?


That looks like a VGA. I would say no. I have Z-540 4.1 set up and is uses what looks like an S-video for the right speaker input and I think that is the volume control for the speakers and the amp in the sub.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hertz9753*
> 
> That looks like a VGA. I would say no. I have Z-540 4.1 set up and is uses what looks like an S-video for the right speaker input and I think that is the volume control for the speakers and the amp in the sub.


thanks, prob best not to do that anyway.... will miss my subwoofer tho i think when these arrive, oh well


----------



## JKuhn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> so here is the back of my subwoofer. i plug in right speaker witht that weird dvi looking thing, then left speaker is yellow. then aucillary at top is empty. could i plug in my monoprice studio monitor speakers into thsoe that i have coming? and have a 4.1 setup?


Sounds like you want to connect your monitors to the aux. If I understand right it won't work because the aux on your sub is an input.

What you can do (if you want) is to connect that system to the surround output on your sound card, and the monitors to the normal left/right output (green). It won't be perfect though, since the sub will only work on the two rear channels.

EDIT: I'm curious though. I just noticed in your sig that you have a DAC, so why connect the speakers to the sound card?


----------



## gumby510

Just added a SVS Pb2000 to my setup and its like night and day. Have a Denon AVR with a set of definitive Tech Pro cinema 60 speakers.



Add me thanks!


----------



## Mikecdm

Looks like a lot of sub.


----------



## DarthBaggins

That's not lots o' sub lol, needs moar!


----------



## gumby510

Just added a SVS PB2000 Sub Denon AVR with definitive Tech Pro cinema 60's. Headgear is some HD 650's



Ya when I got it I almost sent it back cause it's to dam big but once you hear it , it rocks your world. Way to much sub for this small room.


----------



## caenlen

nm


----------



## Ragsters

Can someone recommend me a very inexpensive mini amplifier to power these passive speakers?


----------



## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Can someone recommend me a very inexpensive mini amplifier to power these passive speakers?


i would say ether the SMSL sa-50 or the daton equivalent.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=s9_wsim_gw_g23_i2_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=4KS1Z6R8ANG035JSCNB5&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=5ad2fdd5-705b-4bfa-bd27-caa71187d834&pf_rd_i=desktop


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## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobfig*
> 
> i would say ether the SMSL sa-50 or the daton equivalent.
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0H8TOC/ref=s9_wsim_gw_g23_i2_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=4KS1Z6R8ANG035JSCNB5&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=5ad2fdd5-705b-4bfa-bd27-caa71187d834&pf_rd_i=desktop


That looks great! Dayton equivalent?


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## bobfig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> That looks great! Dayton equivalent?


http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dta-120-class-t-mini-amplifier-60-wpc--300-3800


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## Mudfrog

I run the Dayton amp, great for PC's.


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## caenlen

I want to try an experiment someday (not soon), but my mom and I both own 5" Monoprice powered studio monitor speakers in different rooms.

I was thinking someday getting some speaker stands, and plugging them into my PC sound card, is there an option for a 4.0 surround setup in any sort of audio software that will automatically apply it to games and movies? How does that work? Or do I need a standard 5.1 or 7.1 system in order for games to read the surround right?


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## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> I want to try an experiment someday (not soon), but my mom and I both own 5" Monoprice powered studio monitor speakers in different rooms.
> 
> I was thinking someday getting some speaker stands, and plugging them into my PC sound card, is there an option for a 4.0 surround setup in any sort of audio software that will automatically apply it to games and movies? How does that work? Or do I need a standard 5.1 or 7.1 system in order for games to read the surround right?


I've seen maybe one game with a quadraphonic sound option. But what you would do is, in Windows set the sound to 5.1 but then customize it and uncheck the center and sub, and make all the speakers full range. Then set games to 5.1 and I _think_ it would work but I'm not sure.

It's really a stupid idea though. That $335 Onkyo setup you showed me the other day is the way to go on a tight budget.


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## DarthBaggins

So far running optical out to my Pioneer VSX-520 has been the best option. I set the preset in Windows to 5.1 then on the receiver set what channels are active (L,C,R & Sub). Still want to get a better headset than the SkullCandy Aviator I'm using at the moment for late night gaming sessions. Plus still need to pick up a mic since I can't use the inline one on the headset


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## boredgunner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> So far running optical out to my Pioneer VSX-520 has been the best option.


Yep that's what I do as well. Optical from sound card to receiver. Easier setup than HDMI and I doubt I'd notice the quality difference in video games. Although if we ever want to do 7.1, we'd have to use HDMI right?

The reason I want to stick to optical is, I get to use my sound card's features. I play many old DirectSound3D + EAX games, so I need Creative ALchemy. Amazing results in such games.

Granted I don't see anything stopping us from using both optical and HDMI anyway. Still, Creative needs to make new sound cards with 7.1 support and HDMI 2.0 output (would be fine if it's an addon card).


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## frostbite

I have jamo power 250's

They needed a refoam and are cheap and nasty inside, yellow fibreglass insulation and cheap x-over matrix

Being powered by a harmon kardon hk3380


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## hertz9753

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostbite*
> 
> I have jamo power 250's
> 
> They needed a refoam and are cheap and nasty inside, yellow fibreglass insulation and cheap x-over matrix
> 
> Being powered by a harmon kardon hk3380


http://www.parts-express.com/cat/speaker-surround-refoam-kits/328

Many places have what you might need for those speakers.


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## frostbite

I refoamed them a while ago, easy job and from a small company in the Nethelands


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## acheleg

Yes, My Gaming Computer IS my Entertainment Center



HDMI Video/Audio out to TV/Reciever

JVC very low THD (0.03%) 100x5 watt Receiver

JBL Northridge N26 pair Front
JBL 10S Center
Bose 201 pair Rear
JVC/KLH subs

i also have a 2nd receiver, an all-in-one LG BR 5.1 integrated unit in my entertainment center. This receiver powers my secondary KLH subs, and also is hooked up via TOSLINK to my music computer. If i route the 7.1 channel sound to my LG receiver, then route the audio via HDMI audio/video to the tv, then from the TV coax SPDIF out to my JVC receiver, i get 7.1- split between the speaker sets of both receivers. I get the 5.1 in the LG TOSLINK input, and i get the remaining channels thru the tv HDMI/SPDIF out to the speakers equipped to the JVC receiver.


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## acheleg

My music recording machine



C2Q @2.83 w/ Windows 7, Sonar and Xp Pro Virtual Machine with ACID, Hammerhead, Kinetix, Rebirth338, Pro Audio 9 and lots of vintage/other platform games.



Samson Auro 3 Studio Monitors attached to a Focusrite Scarlett Solo.


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## elzhi

....


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## shilka

Dont know if any in the club is familiar with Dali speakers?


Spoiler: Story and pictures



Many years ago i bought a Harman Kardon HKTS-60 5,1 home cinema speaker system and it has servered me well for many years through much abuse

I have been meaning to replace the HKTS-60 for a while now but never got around to it

A few weeks ago my parents bought some new speakers to replace their old Harman Kardon HKTS-30 set (the model below mine) and after having tested them after a few hours i came to the shocking conclusion that my old HKTS-60 set just sucks compared to how real speakers sound

So i decided to start saving up and sell some of the stuff i never use or dont want anymore
Finally saved up enough money to buy a new center and two satellite speakers and my choise fell on the Dali Opticon Vokal and the Dali Opticon 2 speakers










Just a size compassion between the old Harman Kardon plastic speakers and the new Dali speakers


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## caenlen

So after two years and over 100 headphones, I finally for the last 4-5 months have settled on one headphone, the Monolith M560, which I have 3 different sets of earpads for, and one wood cup closed, and one semi open wood cup ZMF wood style (custom made with dremmel saw), and then of course they sound best when fully open.

So now it is time for me to find the speakers I am going to buy. I currently have Monoprice Studio Powered Monitors 5" $170 for the pair I got on sale for $120, they are honestly quite decent and I enjoy them, BUT, I will have my own place after graduation and I thinking I want to upgrade, I do not want to mess with an expensive reciever, or speaker amp... I am thinking ADAMS 2.0 powered studio monitors, or the Emotiva Stealth 8 powered studio monitors both cost about the same a little under $900 for the pair.

I could use some guidance though, as I am a gamer 90% of time, and movies... music is only like 10% for me. So should I just grab a Dolib 7.1 ATMOS Oynko setup? or something similar high end from Sony or something? please advise.

or is it worth buying a speaker amp for something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068HAAVS/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0068HAAVS&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwpuresimula-20


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## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> So after two years and over 100 headphones, I finally for the last 4-5 months have settled on one headphone, the Monolith M560, which I have 3 different sets of earpads for, and one wood cup closed, and one semi open wood cup ZMF wood style (custom made with dremmel saw), and then of course they sound best when fully open.
> 
> So now it is time for me to find the speakers I am going to buy. I currently have Monoprice Studio Powered Monitors 5" $170 for the pair I got on sale for $120, they are honestly quite decent and I enjoy them, BUT, I will have my own place after graduation and I thinking I want to upgrade, I do not want to mess with an expensive reciever, or speaker amp... I am thinking ADAMS 2.0 powered studio monitors, or the Emotiva Stealth 8 powered studio monitors both cost about the same a little under $900 for the pair.
> 
> I could use some guidance though, as I am a gamer 90% of time, and movies... music is only like 10% for me. So should I just grab a Dolib 7.1 ATMOS Oynko setup? or something similar high end from Sony or something? please advise.
> 
> or is it worth buying a speaker amp for something like this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068HAAVS/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0068HAAVS&linkCode=as2&tag=wwwpuresimula-20


Aren't you starting this journey a bit early?

Also since you are mostly gaming, I would go with the vanatoo T1s to keep it simple. Very big sound in a very small package.


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## hertz9753

How a speaker sounds is up to the end user. The JBL and Infinity speakers that I own are neutral sounding and pleasant on my ears but I wouldn't use them for gaming.


----------



## caenlen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tjj226 Angel*
> 
> Aren't you starting this journey a bit early?
> 
> Also since you are mostly gaming, I would go with the vanatoo T1s to keep it simple. Very big sound in a very small package.


Not really, I may be back home as soon as May 2018 if I graduate early.


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## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> Not really, I may be back home as soon as May 2018 if I graduate early.


Thats a LONNNNGGG ways out.

Keep in mind, plans might change. You could end up staying there.


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## shilka

Finally had enough money to buy the subwoofer so i could finish my new 5,1 speaker setup


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Ended up costing almost $3200 US but thats the best money i have ever spent!
The old lady that lives on the floor below also likes the new setup... not


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