# OCN FrozenQ Reservoir Owners Club



## derickwm

Reserved cause I can









Mine:










FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250 ml Reservoir w/ Side Ports - UV Red (POM)

^This format works best


----------



## AoHxBram

Sick a 4P board !


----------



## Ceadderman

I get mine this week. I'll be joining then. Anyone have any idea what length CCL, I need to cannibalize to get the proper bulb length for the 250mm Liquid Fusion? I'm getting a used one, the bulb is burnt out an so I'm considering going with a Red bulb instead of picking up another UV bulb.









~Ceadder


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I get mine this week. I'll be joining then. Anyone have any idea what length CCL, I need to cannibalize to get the proper bulb length for the 250mm Liquid Fusion? I'm getting a used one, the bulb is burnt out an so I'm considering going with a Red bulb instead of picking up another UV bulb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


the 250mm just takes a 30cm cathode bulb I think, the 400mm one is the same (it's actually too small but I haven't found any longer ones)

my dual-bay reservoir from these guys developed a crack last month and i've been waiting for a replacement for ages, they stopped responding to my emails on my the 25th and I still don't have the replacement they said they sent so I don't really know what to do now :/

i've bought 3 reservoirs from these guys directly so you would think they'd be a bit more ******* helpful and not ignore my emails.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> the 250mm just takes a 30cm cathode bulb I think, the 400mm one is the same (it's actually too small but I haven't found any longer ones)
> my dual-bay reservoir from these guys developed a crack last month and i've been waiting for a replacement for ages, they stopped responding to my emails on my the 25th and I still don't have the replacement they said they sent so I don't really know what to do now :/
> i've bought 3 reservoirs from these guys directly so you would think they'd be a bit more ******* helpful and not ignore my emails.


dont worry man they have been super slammed, they will take care of you, Frozenq always comes through, they might have some bumps down the road but it will work out for you dont worry


----------



## Tipless

im in!

i have a dula bay fusion res:


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I get mine this week. I'll be joining then. Anyone have any idea what length CCL, I need to cannibalize to get the proper bulb length for the 250mm Liquid Fusion? I'm getting a used one, the bulb is burnt out an so I'm considering going with a Red bulb instead of picking up another UV bulb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the 250mm just takes a 30cm cathode bulb I think, the 400mm one is the same (it's actually too small but I haven't found any longer ones)
> 
> my dual-bay reservoir from these guys developed a crack last month and i've been waiting for a replacement for ages, they stopped responding to my emails on my the 25th and I still don't have the replacement they said they sent so I don't really know what to do now :/
> 
> i've bought 3 reservoirs from these guys directly so you would think they'd be a bit more ******* helpful and not ignore my emails.
Click to expand...

They had a fire in their mill on the 7th or 8th I think it was and they pulled an all nighter to get caught up. Their mill is down but they're using the time wisely to put what they have together and get it prepped for shipping.









An a 30cm cat would be way too big considering that that the bulb doesn't bend. I'm thinking more like an 8" bulb which would be about 20cm in length. It would still be short but I don't know what the length of the Caps are so that seems about right? 30cm would be sticking out at one end.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

yes, i have been wanting to see this club for a while

please count me in

Red Helix 250mm
Green Helix 250mm
Green Dual Bay Res


















































lights OUT


----------



## Ceadderman

I feel weak and inferior looking at RushMore's pics.


















~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I feel weak and inferior looking at RushMore's pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


ur builds are just as good as mine bro

but the DD water box is sexy huh? its for my girlfriend

Electric Seahorse Companion Cube- Buildlog

lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah that SeaHorse build is lookin pure smecsy. An I'm not much into plexi cases anymore.









~Ceadder


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah that SeaHorse build is lookin pure smecsy. An I'm not much into plexi cases anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


neiher am i, thats why this case was sitting in my garage for more then a year, then **** beautifull girl came along and fell in love with it, so i finaly got some inspiraton for the build


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They had a fire in their mill on the 7th or 8th I think it was and they pulled an all nighter to get caught up.


they said they were sending my replacement on the 26th LAST MONTH. I don't see how a fire on the 7/8th of this month has anything to do with that


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> they said they were sending my replacement on the 26th LAST MONTH. I don't see how a fire on the 7/8th of this month has anything to do with that


if it was shipped to the wrong address and noone returned it(which is likely) then when they had to send another one they had to contend with the fire and all other errors in orders/backup. you might find this shocking, but they do have quite a few other customers besides yourself.

on an aside: sorry to hear your having issues. i have always had nothing but pleasant transactions with these guys


----------



## regles

I've owned it for a few months but haven't used it yet. It will be used when I do my Ivy Bridge build.


----------



## RushMore1205

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *regles*
> 
> I've owned it for a few months but haven't used it yet. It will be used when I do my Ivy Bridge build.


sexy


----------



## d3viliz3d

Yay good idea! Count me in!
WC setup is on its way over the Atlantic ocean right now, but I already have the resevoir in my hands!
Liquid Fusion V Series resevoir 250mm UV Blue, side ports.



Gonna post more pics of my build as soon as the goods arrive!
Can we use that signature yet? I like it!

I also have 2 red helix and another blue helix up for sale if anyone is interested!


----------



## derickwm

Love the red and white









I'll be ordering one of dem dual bay helix reservoirs for new build









Also update to OP coming...soonish. Busyish week.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just so people know I'm not funnin...



Here is my Frozen Q Res.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Updated. School has gotten very busy but I will do my best to pop in and update every so often.


----------



## Dredknot

Got to Love the FrozenQ reservoirs theres nothing quiet like them. Check out my Video in my SIG to see it in action.


----------



## LokSupguller

^ Love your monitor set-up right there dude








Don't really dig that orange and green though :L

Frozen Q reservoirs are awesome, but they're way too expensive, and I live in Australia so it's hard to get one from overseas, and the shipping is awful


----------



## Dredknot

lol its the way the camera makes it look for some reason. its actually Blood red and Green. looks much better in person just cant seem to get a good photo of it. They do cost a bit but they are totally worth it. Defiantly a show piece in a system.


----------



## evil jerry

I have a custom ordered white Helix Dual Bay Res. The UV Cathode looks wierd, I need to find a green cathode to fit the res.

I dealt with Frozen Q Directly to get mine, the customer service was awesome.

I will add more pictures later, my rebuild is still in progress


----------



## Dredknot

This is closer to what it looks like. But more red. I got mine from frozencpu. I heard that frozenq was having problems meeting demands for deliveries or i would have bought directly from them.


----------



## derickwm

is sexy.


----------



## Nexus6

Does a FrozenQ box qualify for a spot in this awesome thread











I'll take a picture of my FrozenQ when my Digital Camera is done charging its dead battery.


----------



## LokSupguller

MUCHHHH better  I dig that now DredKnot


----------



## Dredknot

Gonna switch to red tubing and uv Green kink coils+ im adding a 200mm rad in the front for more cooling. I want to see someone with the 400ml Res lol. that thing is a monster.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Gonna switch to red tubing and uv Green kink coils+ im adding a 200mm rad in the front for more cooling. I want to see someone with the 400ml Res lol. that thing is a monster.


I concur that thing is indeed a monster. I would love to do that with mine but my FQ is goin on top of my Dual DDC block so there is no way to to that also would have to poke a hole in my Rad to get that standing upright. Most likely will have to be someone with one of those monster TJ cases or one of the MMods cases though cause I don't see it looking right laying horizontal in mine.









My 932 is plenty big enough it just won't look right.









*Update* 










With some Distilled in it... I noticed that it's got some mineral depositing in side the clear acrylc tube so I've filled it with a 50/50 mix of Vinegar and Distilled and will let it sit. Can't complain though cause you couldn't beat the price I got it an 8 Bitspower Fittings for. But I'd like to get the deposits out of it if I can. Anyone have an idea other than what I'm doing?















I know you can't see the deposits but they're there and will be seen for miles once I get a new Cat for the Res.










~Ceadder


----------



## braudrist

FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual Bay Reservoir - Acrylic - UV Red Helix


----------



## ProfeZZor X

Looks like I'll be getting mine pretty soon too.


----------



## btwalter

Ive got the red helix res, however, CAN'T USE IT due to the fact that the single port cap threading is messed up and doesn't seal a fitting.







FQ said last week he was going to send a new cap out last sat, nothing yet. my loop parts get here tomorrow, so that means I will still be down.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> Ive got the red helix res, however, CAN'T USE IT due to the fact that the single port cap threading is messed up and doesn't seal a fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FQ said last week he was going to send a new cap out last sat, nothing yet. my loop parts get here tomorrow, so that means I will still be down.


Go to your auto parts store. They will have a thicker o-ring that has the same diameter


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> Ive got the red helix res, however, CAN'T USE IT due to the fact that the single port cap threading is messed up and doesn't seal a fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FQ said last week he was going to send a new cap out last sat, nothing yet. my loop parts get here tomorrow, so that means I will still be down.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go to your auto parts store. They will have a thicker o-ring that has the same diameter
Click to expand...

No no, some of his new fittings may come with an extra ring(Enzo's come with extra rings) or if he wants I'll send him some of my extras. Don't spend the money on an oring if you don't have to. PM me address at least an I'll take care of ya.









I got Orings how many wouldja like...



~Ceadder


----------



## btwalter

Thanks guys! I know that i'm getting a couple of O-Rings with the 2 barbs I ordered for my drain port.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12500/ex-tub-787/Bitspower_Deep_Bold_Red_O-Ring_-_10_Pack_BP-WTP-010-DRD.html?id=iGpwb6v6&mv_pc=147 2 of those packs I ordered.

So would I just put 2 of those on that fitting for the time being?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> Thanks guys! I know that i'm getting a couple of O-Rings with the 2 barbs I ordered for my drain port.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12500/ex-tub-787/Bitspower_Deep_Bold_Red_O-Ring_-_10_Pack_BP-WTP-010-DRD.html?id=iGpwb6v6&mv_pc=147 2 of those packs I ordered.
> 
> So would I just put 2 of those on that fitting for the time being?


Should only need one.









~Ceadder


----------



## CjGemini

Put me in







FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250mm


----------



## btwalter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Should only need one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks. Just worried, due to the fact even a bitspower stop fitting doesnt seal and leaks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Put me in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250mm


I'm coming to your house to rob you for that helix, tubing, and your PSU cables. LOL


----------



## Ceadderman

Love your rig CjGemini. I saw this on Druid's YouTube and could stop droolin for hours later.









~Ceadder


----------



## CjGemini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> I'm coming to your house to rob you for that helix, tubing, and your PSU cables. LOL












Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love your rig CjGemini. I saw this on Druid's YouTube and could stop droolin for hours later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can't even tell you how I kept adding stuff on for him to build for me, I was waiting for him to tell me "No" but it never came.


----------



## nicodemus

oh yeah. =) love my res.

FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual Bay Reservoir w/ Swiftech MCP35x Series Pump Installed


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> I'm coming to your house to rob you for that helix, tubing, and your PSU cables. LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Love your rig CjGemini. I saw this on Druid's YouTube and could stop droolin for hours later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I can't even tell you how I kept adding stuff on for him to build for me, I was waiting for him to tell me "No" but it never came.
Click to expand...

Haha, you pay for it and the customer gets what he pays for. That's why he never said no. Now if it just wasn't possible though, I could see a no coming but everything I saw being done was more than possible. An it looks damned smecsy bruh. I love my 932 but your partition plate setup made me jeally. I know that's an 800 D thing but you know. I got lots a good ideas now. Playin with my block and double helix setup right now matter of factly. I thought I had an acetal wick goin on like Druid did. Nope just not tightend down all the way I guess.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> Thanks guys! I know that i'm getting a couple of O-Rings with the 2 barbs I ordered for my drain port.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12500/ex-tub-787/Bitspower_Deep_Bold_Red_O-Ring_-_10_Pack_BP-WTP-010-DRD.html?id=iGpwb6v6&mv_pc=147 2 of those packs I ordered.
> So would I just put 2 of those on that fitting for the time being?


if it isnt sealing... you will need a lrager oring

@ceaddar

he said it wasnt sealing, therefore the stock oring isnt sufficient.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> Thanks guys! I know that i'm getting a couple of O-Rings with the 2 barbs I ordered for my drain port.
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12500/ex-tub-787/Bitspower_Deep_Bold_Red_O-Ring_-_10_Pack_BP-WTP-010-DRD.html?id=iGpwb6v6&mv_pc=147 2 of those packs I ordered.
> So would I just put 2 of those on that fitting for the time being?
> 
> 
> 
> if it isnt sealing... you will need a lrager oring
> 
> @ceaddar
> 
> he said it wasnt sealing, therefore the stock oring isnt sufficient.
Click to expand...

Or the Oring is *faulty* bruh. I think that it's more faulty than insufficient. I'd like to think that's what it is anyway, cause he's got the same cap as you an me an the same plug so the Oring must be faulty.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or the Oring is *faulty* bruh. I think that it's more faulty than insufficient. I'd like to think that's what it is anyway, cause he's got the same cap as you an me an the same plug so the Oring must be faulty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It is possible but he said the thread was messed up. Look at the pic. It doesn't screw all the way down


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Put me in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250mm


Thats a sick rig. I love the colors. Post some pics with the machine turned on so we can really see the res in action. What tubing is that also?


----------



## Ceadderman

Kind of annoyed right now. No matter what I do I cannot get the caps off my Res. I've done what FrozenQ suggests by running it under warm water and nothing. Those things are acting like they been glued onto the tube.









It may be I'm not trying to loosen them the correct way. Is it Clockwise/Counter Clockwise to take the caps off? I looked at a pic of their tube and it looks like working at the bottom of the Res, that the cap comes off Clockwise. But I've tried with no success. I really want to clean the interior of the tube because the mineralization deposits are driving me nuts.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> It is possible but he said the thread was messed up. Look at the pic. It doesn't screw all the way down


Might be cross threaded mebbe?









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Thats interesting. I also tired to remove my caps before to clean and couldnt do it. didnt want to break my brand new res lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Or the Oring is *faulty* bruh. I think that it's more faulty than insufficient. I'd like to think that's what it is anyway, cause he's got the same cap as you an me an the same plug so the Oring must be faulty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is possible but he said the thread was messed up. Look at the pic. It doesn't screw all the way down
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Thats interesting. I also tired to remove my caps before to clean and couldnt do it. didnt want to break my brand new res lol.


I might just break the tube. A new one costs $15 from FrozenQ an since I may be buyin a new bulb from them... don't want to but if I can't get this thing figured out soon, I just might.









Only problem is it may break one of the Helices if I do that. An I really am in no mood to go through that esperience.









I was lookin at the one end an with two fittings I may be able to use a lever to unscrew it. But the other end is a single fitting an there is just no way to try that. So I'm right back where I start no matter how this goes unless someone has a reliable way of getting them off. Running warm to hot watter over it ain't gonna do jack.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

bring a pot of water to boil and dip it in for a few secs at a time until it loosens. but just the cap and not the tube as you are trying to get the cap to expand and not the tube as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> bring a pot of water to boil and dip it in for a few secs at a time until it loosens. but just the cap and not the tube as you are trying to get the cap to expand and not the tube as well.


Alright I'll give it a whirl.








...

Fail!







.

I dipped the thing only a quarter of the way in and held it there long enough for the cap to get hot and it just sat back and laughed at me.









Thanks anyways man. It's gonna take a ball peen I'm afraid.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Got a bench vise you could set it in with a towel around it? Then you could use both hands...


----------



## hex65000

Silly question: Those reservoirs are slick, but what I didn't see on their site was how much water they hold. Does the water just go through the helix tubing? Around it? Or both? Sorry about the newbie question, but I'm curious to know more about everyone's experiences with these reservoirs.

Hex.
[ Has rendered the SAME DAMN video 5 times now... just cant seem to fix the audio sync.







]


----------



## derickwm

Lookin good guys









List has been updated. Keepin it classy


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hex65000*
> 
> Silly question: Those reservoirs are slick, but what I didn't see on their site was how much water they hold. Does the water just go through the helix tubing? Around it? Or both? Sorry about the newbie question, but I'm curious to know more about everyone's experiences with these reservoirs.
> 
> Hex.
> [ Has rendered the SAME DAMN video 5 times now... just cant seem to fix the audio sync.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


If I could get my caps off I could say for sure but I believe that it doesn't run liquid through the Helices. And a 250 Double Helix holds about a cup of liquid +/- on it's own. I'm pretty sure the Dual Bays hold a similar amount of liquid as well.









*Edit* On the vice idea, yeah I have a Vice but I'm not sure I want to use it because while it would give me two hands of torque on the tube itself, tightening it to a workable tension even with padding on it would cause the threads to lock up even further. Think I'll have to grab a buddy and a rubber mallet and try to vibrate it loose. These things are behaving like they're cross threaded however. I know I can be a bit weak but these caps remind me of when I tried changing the oil on my GF's Geo after some neanderthal she knew had changed it. He cross threaded the plug and then didn't question why if it came out so easily it not going back in likewise. I finally gave up on the stupid thing an went back to the store got a oil pan gasket an did the change the messy way. This is a bit like that. Can't advance the thread enough to get some leverage back and can't get it coming off normally. I know that Frozen Q says to apply a good amount of silicon tape but holy hell these things are locked on like a prostitute on a... well you guys get the idea of where I'm goin with this analogy.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

If you were thinking about replacing the tube anyway... I don't see why it'd hurt to try lol. Good luck with it though


----------



## btwalter

I got my cap off using this: Just tighten the band around the cap, then twist your hands in opposite directions. should break loose.



As for the fitting, a new O-Ring helped. It doesnt leak anymore, but it still goes in slanted.


----------



## nicodemus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hex65000*
> 
> Silly question: Those reservoirs are slick, but what I didn't see on their site was how much water they hold. Does the water just go through the helix tubing? Around it? Or both? Sorry about the newbie question, but I'm curious to know more about everyone's experiences with these reservoirs.
> Hex.
> [ Has rendered the SAME DAMN video 5 times now... just cant seem to fix the audio sync.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


it goes around the helix. the helix is just decoration. not a silly question at all. =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> I got my cap off using this: Just tighten the band around the cap, then twist your hands in opposite directions. should break loose.
> 
> 
> 
> As for the fitting, a new O-Ring helped. It doesnt leak anymore, but it still goes in slanted.


Which way? Clock/Counter Clock? I sure don't want to torque the tube the wrong way and make it worse than it needs to be. I tried the lever method with my barbs in the dual inlets but that was just as fail as trying to do it by hand and I stopped b4 I could do any damage to the one end I wish not to replace.









~Ceadder


----------



## CjGemini

@ Dredknot it's Feser 1/2 ID UV Red Tubing

Here she is on and completely lit, I still need to get a Strip led light, just can't decide on color yet. Any Suggestions?


----------



## derickwm

Get a white stripe. Keep that thing classy


----------



## Deeks

I just bought one of these reservoirs and got me thinking, can the silver kill coil even fit in this reservoir or am i better off using PT Nuke ?


----------



## derickwm

A silver kill coil fits perfectly fine







just unscrew one end and slide it on down. It's worked perfectly for me in two separate loops.


----------



## Ceadderman

I gotta say with the UV bulb and the white LEDs' embedded in the Res standoff, go with a Red strip light. Any more white you might as well get a little plastic replica of King Kong or Godzilla to add to your system.









The build is classy so long as you don't add a disco ball an fog generator CjGemini.









~Ceadder


----------



## oicwutudidthar

What is the best way to mount this a t virus tube res? I don't want to drill holes in my case


----------



## btwalter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which way? Clock/Counter Clock? I sure don't want to torque the tube the wrong way and make it worse than it needs to be. I tried the lever method with my barbs in the dual inlets but that was just as fail as trying to do it by hand and I stopped b4 I could do any damage to the one end I wish not to replace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


rule of thumb.

Righty tighty, lefty loosy.









just make sure your hands twist opposite of each other, and make sure the and with the tool turns left. it'll take a little force, but it breaks loose.


----------



## Deeks

I had another question to anyone using bitpower 1/2id 3/4od fittings on if they will both fit on the bottom of the res without touching each other ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which way? Clock/Counter Clock? I sure don't want to torque the tube the wrong way and make it worse than it needs to be. I tried the lever method with my barbs in the dual inlets but that was just as fail as trying to do it by hand and I stopped b4 I could do any damage to the one end I wish not to replace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rule of thumb.
> 
> Righty tighty, lefty loosy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just make sure your hands twist opposite of each other, and make sure the and with the tool turns left. it'll take a little force, but it breaks loose.
Click to expand...

That's what I thought it was but it's pretty difficult to tell when you don't get any movement from the cap at all. Much thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## Balsagna

Have one. The cathode broke in it and whoever assembled it (bought it of off FrozenCPU) did a terrible job with the machining of it. I usually don't rant much about custom products, but I will on it.

The cathode tube acrylic wasn't even screwed to the cap, it was glued and wrapped with nylon and broke as it was cheap. So then I had the hole at the bottom hampering the product from even being used. Contacted FrozenQ and talked to someone named Alex (isn't he the one that runs the place?) anyways. He was very kind and said he'd ship out a product to me first so I could have it as I ship to training in the week. I would cross ship back to him and told me to just put in an RMA request and he'd send it out.

Guess what! I put in the RMA request and never got contacted back and never got a replacement and now I ship so I had to mod the res and seal the hole to get it functional again. Basically, I'm just going to say the res looks nice, the acrylic rod that's used on the helix is nice

But everything else around the tube is pathetically cheap and not machined to good standards and I know this as I work in a machine shop. I won't be using another product from them based on how the quality of the product is.

Here's an example -- I removed the bottom cap where the hole was from the broken cathode/tube so I could seal the hole and the threads on the plastic were ruined where the cap couldn't screw back in. I took it to work and lathed new threads on it myself.

Overally, it was just a cheaply machined flashy expensive res. I couldn't even put 2 compression fittings on it









Sure I'm going to be flamed now.


----------



## Saancho

Count Me in please!...


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeks*
> 
> I had another question to anyone using bitpower 1/2id 3/4od fittings on if they will both fit on the bottom of the res without touching each other ?


No they won't fit. I have same ones.

Can get one on not the other to tighten them both down.


----------



## Deeks

Would it work if i attached one right to it and the other used a 20mm extension male/female and then used a compression fitting on that ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeks*
> 
> Would it work if i attached one right to it and the other used a 20mm extension male/female and then used a compression fitting on that ?


Angle fittings would do the job quite well. I'm flipping mine so single port is at the bottom to mount it to my DDC pump top and can either use my EK fittings on the dual port or use angles for my BP fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## netdevil

Didn't see this thread till now.Awesome that we have a club for these beautiful reservoirs. Here is mine, it took 2 month to arrive but when it was lighted up it left me in awe and well worth it. My ccfl bulb was only lit the top half in the 1st week. I sent an rma request and Alex had a replacement sent with no questions ask. Thanks Alex.

Sorry for the lousy pics and untidy rig not finished yet









Liquid Fusion V Series UV Blue 250mm With Clear caps and side ports

https://frozenqshop.com/index.php/reservoirs/lf/lf250.html










Pic was taken with half-lit bulb which is now fixed


----------



## btwalter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> Didn't see this thread till now.Awesome that we have a club for these beautiful reservoirs. Here is mine, it took 2 month to arrive but when it was lighted up it left me in awe and well worth it. My ccfl bulb was only lit the top half in the 1st week. I sent an rma request and Alex had a replacement sent with no questions ask. Thanks Alex.
> Sorry for the lousy pics and untidy rig not finished yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Liquid Fusion V Series UV Blue 250mm With Clear caps and side ports
> https://frozenqshop.com/index.php/reservoirs/lf/lf250.html


I like those clear caps, might have to get me some!

on the bottom of your case... acrylic with white vinyl and white lighting under?


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> I like those clear caps, might have to get me some!
> on the bottom of your case... acrylic with white vinyl and white lighting under?


I haven't seen much people opting for clear caps but it works for me









At the bottom --> 1st attempt at creating the popular illuminated panel. It's just clear acrylic sandwiched with white acrylic and led strip at the side.Need to sand the clear acrylic so light can be diffused better. Haven't gotten round to doing it yet, too lazy lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Wonder if they'd make me a connecter cap so I can direct mount to my DDC top. Those clear caps show they're willing to cater to the customer. Would love to have my Res connected to my Dual DDC v2 top instead of connected via dual G1/4 make fitting.









If they did that it would give them another item they could add to their catalog. I know they didn't make the top, but it should be doable. I'd even ship them my top so they had something to mock up the engineering sample with. If need be of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## GTXJackBauer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Have one. The cathode broke in it and whoever assembled it (bought it of off FrozenCPU) did a terrible job with the machining of it. I usually don't rant much about custom products, but I will on it.
> The cathode tube acrylic wasn't even screwed to the cap, it was glued and wrapped with nylon and broke as it was cheap. So then I had the hole at the bottom hampering the product from even being used. Contacted FrozenQ and talked to someone named Alex (isn't he the one that runs the place?) anyways. He was very kind and said he'd ship out a product to me first so I could have it as I ship to training in the week. I would cross ship back to him and told me to just put in an RMA request and he'd send it out.
> Guess what! I put in the RMA request and never got contacted back and never got a replacement and now I ship so I had to mod the res and seal the hole to get it functional again. Basically, I'm just going to say the res looks nice, the acrylic rod that's used on the helix is nice
> But everything else around the tube is pathetically cheap and not machined to good standards and I know this as I work in a machine shop. I won't be using another product from them based on how the quality of the product is.
> Here's an example -- I removed the bottom cap where the hole was from the broken cathode/tube so I could seal the hole and the threads on the plastic were ruined where the cap couldn't screw back in. I took it to work and lathed new threads on it myself.
> Overally, it was just a cheaply machined flashy expensive res. I couldn't even put 2 compression fittings on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure I'm going to be flamed now.


No worries here cause I have gone to hell and back with Frozenq to get a dual bay reservoir (about 9 months from purchase date and after a bunch of RMAs, I finally got my last reservoir that would fit the 800D but not be secured because it needs to be modded when I specifically said I don't wanna mod my beautiful case and finally gave up). I got ALOT of promises that never went through, excuses and the run around. It's unfortunate because I'am not an anal person (no pun intended







) at all and barely complain about anything but I must be honest and say it was the worst experience of my computer life. They are so backed up but still make promises to their customers from their company site of getting products very shortly but its really months away. Bad made quality and not thoroughly cleaned products, along with bad threaded holes. Enough said not going to ruin this thread and not here to bash them but I think some folks need to know the real truth. All the complaints on their facebook page along with mine were removed. Just a heads up. Alex is the owner and I've heard is in his early 20s making a ton of dough. He has alot to learn.


----------



## CjGemini

This thread needs more participants!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> This thread needs more participants!!!!


Yeah it does. There are lots of Frozen Q product owners on OCN. Kind of surprised there aren't more people banging on the door.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wonder if they'd make me a connecter cap so I can direct mount to my DDC top. Those clear caps show they're willing to cater to the customer. Would love to have my Res connected to my Dual DDC v2 top instead of connected via dual G1/4 make fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they did that it would give them another item they could add to their catalog. I know they didn't make the top, but it should be doable. I'd even ship them my top so they had something to mock up the engineering sample with. If need be of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i know a guy here that does some pretty awesome acrylic work. i could show him some pics and see what he says... send me a pic of your top.. errr... your pump top that is


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Wonder if they'd make me a connecter cap so I can direct mount to my DDC top. Those clear caps show they're willing to cater to the customer. Would love to have my Res connected to my Dual DDC v2 top instead of connected via dual G1/4 make fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they did that it would give them another item they could add to their catalog. I know they didn't make the top, but it should be doable. I'd even ship them my top so they had something to mock up the engineering sample with. If need be of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i know a guy here that does some pretty awesome acrylic work. i could show him some pics and see what he says... send me a pic of your top.. errr... your pump top that is
Click to expand...




Spoiler: Not sure how that would work but...






































The Reservoir seat is 50mm in diameter If you need a better shot of the thread I can do that in the morning when I have better lighting available. Would be quite awesome if he could do it. Though I'd rather stick with an Acetal connection. Would look kind of weird if I went Plexi(unless Red) connector with Acetal top.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fasadi

Does it count if I'm not watercooling yet, but just daydreaming a build that'll use the FrozenQ 250mL reservoir behind some fan mounts on a caselabs M8? I figure I'll use the Bitspower 120mm fan brackets, and bolt it onto the Caselabs fan mount so you can see the helix from the front and side. I have a dream!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fasadi*
> 
> Does it count if I'm not watercooling yet, but just daydreaming a build that'll use the FrozenQ 250mL reservoir behind some fan mounts on a caselabs M8? I figure I'll use the Bitspower 120mm fan brackets, and bolt it onto the Caselabs fan mount so you can see the helix from the front and side. I have a dream!


I'm not water cooling yet, you just have to be an owner and show proof I guess. Since I am not OP, I can't say whether or not you can join but I'm pretty sure you gotta show proof to do so.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fasadi

Agreed, I mostly just _want_ to be in this club. I'll sort out any difficulties that arise, but with something that looks that cool...I'll take the chances.


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Not sure how that would work but...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Reservoir seat is 50mm in diameter If you need a better shot of the thread I can do that in the morning when I have better lighting available. Would be quite awesome if he could do it. Though I'd rather stick with an Acetal connection. Would look kind of weird if I went Plexi(unless Red) connector with Acetal top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


yeah some better pics would be nice. im sure he would need to be able to see where the res cap would need to attach and cover to be able to make one


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Not sure how that would work but...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Reservoir seat is 50mm in diameter If you need a better shot of the thread I can do that in the morning when I have better lighting available. Would be quite awesome if he could do it. Though I'd rather stick with an Acetal connection. Would look kind of weird if I went Plexi(unless Red) connector with Acetal top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah some better pics would be nice. im sure he would need to be able to see where the res cap would need to attach and cover to be able to make one
Click to expand...

Not a problem. Dragged my compass into the mizx, as well to give as clear a picture as possible. The pics are somewhat self explanatory but...



Spoiler: Including measurements



*Mating surface of Collar is the exterior thread...*








*Using a compass to gauge the distance between the thread and the Intake port...*








*Distance corresponds with G1/4 port and clearance between thread and port...*








*Thickness of G1/4 port @ radius...*








*Actual inside Diameter of collar from the edge of the thread center to center...*








*Back to full view...*








*Oh and depth from top to base...*



















The thread looks similar in spacing as the G1/4 thread so I'd have to believe that it's fine pitch, but without an internal pitch gauge of the correct sizing, I can't be certain.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not a problem. Dragged my compass into the mizx, as well to give as clear a picture as possible. The pics are somewhat self explanatory but...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Including measurements
> 
> 
> 
> Using a compass to gauge the distance between the thread and the Intake port...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thread looks similar in spacing as the G1/4 thread so I'd have to believe that it's fine pitch, but without an internal pitch gauge of the correct sizing, I can't be certain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


i dont have experience with that top and i want to make sure that every thing goes correct.

also could you post with a picture of the pic in my quote of you above and your rez with the bottom off next to each other(the res bottom and pump top that is)? or top if you cant get one off as they should be the same size threads

im sure that if he decides he can do it he will need the top and res bottom to make an attachment that will work


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not a problem. Dragged my compass into the mizx, as well to give as clear a picture as possible. The pics are somewhat self explanatory but...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Including measurements
> 
> 
> 
> Using a compass to gauge the distance between the thread and the Intake port...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thread looks similar in spacing as the G1/4 thread so I'd have to believe that it's fine pitch, but without an internal pitch gauge of the correct sizing, I can't be certain.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i dont have experience with that top and i want to make sure that every thing goes correct.
> 
> also could you post with a picture of the pic in my quote of you above and your rez with the bottom off next to each other(the res bottom and pump top that is)? or top if you cant get one off as they should be the same size threads
> 
> im sure that if he decides he can do it he will need the top and res bottom to make an attachment that will work
Click to expand...

I can't even get the caps off at the moment. I'm sure the thread pitch is the same though. A more coarse thread would be prone to leakage, I would think based on the little knowledge I have regarding pipe thread. I can post a pic of my 250 dbl helix though if you like.









If you look in the post above yours all measurements should be there. Let me know if there is another measurement besides interior. I'll be able to get the darned caps off if I can ever find my strap wrenches. Really annoying when you know you have the tool, but can't find it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I can't even get the caps off at the moment. I'm sure the thread pitch is the same though. A more coarse thread would be prone to leakage, I would think based on the little knowledge I have regarding pipe thread. I can post a pic of my 250 dbl helix though if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look in the post above yours all measurements should be there. Let me know if there is another measurement besides interior. I'll be able to get the darned caps off if I can ever find my strap wrenches. Really annoying when you know you have the tool, but can't find it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


understood but without having the visual of the cap next to the top im not sure he can get an idea of he will need to do and without the cap and pump top in hand he cant be sure of the actual thread either lol. i guess we can wait till you get the cap off lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I can't even get the caps off at the moment. I'm sure the thread pitch is the same though. A more coarse thread would be prone to leakage, I would think based on the little knowledge I have regarding pipe thread. I can post a pic of my 250 dbl helix though if you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you look in the post above yours all measurements should be there. Let me know if there is another measurement besides interior. I'll be able to get the darned caps off if I can ever find my strap wrenches. Really annoying when you know you have the tool, but can't find it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> understood but without having the visual of the cap next to the top im not sure he can get an idea of he will need to do and without the cap and pump top in hand he cant be sure of the actual thread either lol. i guess we can wait till you get the cap off lol
Click to expand...

*OMF'NLord!!! What a chore!*










Spoiler: Un huh - separation in the middle















































I *finally* got those







caps off the Reservoir now I can clean the tube out and hopefully get rid of those deposits.









The thread is the same but the tubing itself is 50mm diameter. Same thread depth as the seat in the pump block as well.

I love this reservoir but I have to say I'm a bit disappointed in the craftsmanship. If you look closely you'll see all kinds of "hairs" and that stuff is Acetal. It's that stuff that gummed up the threads enough to make the caps feel cross threaded. It was so bad that even with some grip on the tube and the caps(one at a time of course) that a neck muscle in the left side of my neck actually extended outward and locked up for a bit. I've gotta take some Ibuprofen now cause it's pretty painful. I'm not weak by any stretch and my bull of a brother couldn't even get these caps off. He outweighs me by 40 lbs or better. I weigh a buck ninety if that gives you any idea.

I found the old bag of rubberbands that I keep around for emergencies and wrapped 4 or 5 of them around the Res so for you folks looking for a better way to get the caps off, forget straps(though I'm sure they work) and forget boiling water. Just do like you would for a compression fitting that is overtightened and wrap some rubberbands around it wide enough on the tube to fit your grip hand on and enough to get a good grip to twist with your other hand.

I just wish the craftsmanship was up to snuff though. People lambaste EK for shoddy workmanship? They'd be carrying torches and pitchforks right to Eddy's door if they saw all these "hairs" in one of EK's Acetal products.

Functionality? A minus. Great product, the helices prevent cycloning of the coolant. No beef there imho. Would like to see more lighting options other than UV but I can deal with that on my own. Shouldn't have to but can.

Presentation? Stunning so it gets an A grade. Regardless of coolant used these things look absolutely SICK!

Craftsmanship? I've got to give a bad grade here based on what I have in my grubby mitts. I've been around a machinist all my life. I've also done some work in a shop as a result of that. Acetal is different than metals but to let something like this get out of your shop? That's laziness, lack of experience or both. Unless you offer a service where you are dealing with it for the life of the product, the consumer is going to have to clean it and keep it in good repair. No amount of Hot Water on my caps could have loosed them even if I had a freezer line wrapped around the tube while dipping the caps in boiling water. It just wasn't happening. That's a C grade in my book. What saves it is the construction of the Helices and the light tube set up. Instead of being glued into place as some manufacturers would attempt to get away with, these light tubes are threaded and sealed with silicon tape. The application is sound it's the construction that has me scratching my head.









Overall I give it a B+ because other owners may not have these issues. It could be I have one of the first ones manufactured and with repetition comes experience. I hope that's what it is cause I plan to get one of the Bay reservoirs for the front of my system and once I get my GPU under water will put a DDC pump on it. So maybe I'm being overly critical. I don't believe I am but others may not have the same experience I've had. I'm not going to complain too loudly however considering the cost of it.









I'm off to soak this thing in a warm Distilled and Vinegar solution to get rid of these mineral deposits now.









~Ceadder


----------



## evil jerry

I think people need to share there experiences. I ordered directly from them and it took a while for my res to get here. I was however prepared to wait for it as it's custom color. My helix is white. I had problems with my order but they went above and beyond for me. I ordered a B-Stock and the B-stock I ordered got sold to someone else so they Sent me a brand new Res, I got also the D5 pump top and I have to say it is machine very well and looks awesome. However I've heard many horror stories about the cylinder's and the threading being off. I have not heard any problems with the dual bay res and my dual bay res is in perfect condition I am interested to see the acrylic version of the dual bay they released a few months ago. So hopefully someone will share there experiences as if they have had problems with the dual bays in both acetal and acrylic versions. That way we can gather feed back to help others who buy the products.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

My only dilemma is deciding on the frosted acrylic box or the black box in my black case. More importantly though is how would the acrylic look with the pump connected to the rear of the reservoir, and if it'll take away from the illuminated look from within the case looking straight in. If it'll be too much of a hassle, then I may just settle for the black and be done with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well, I finally finished cleaning the Reservoir. It's not gonna be 100% crystal clear but it took a lot of fussing to get it to where the acrylic is liveable. I tried a 30/70 Vinegar/Distilled solution. Mineral deposits just laughed.

Went 100% Vinegar in a 3 cup jigger for 10 minutes, flip, 10 minutes, flip session. Nothing. Deposits were still just as bad as when I got this. Finally I got the Baking Soda put about 3 or 4 tbsp. in a small bowl and used vinegar and hydrogen peroxide together to create a paste. Coated the inside of the tube and let stand for 10 minutes. Slight improvement but wasn't doing anything for the most part. That's when I got serious and went to the fridge, grabbed the squeezie lime and added a bit to the mix. Oh man that soda frothed up real good when I added the lime juice. Again coated the inside of the tube and let it stand for 10 minutes more and then took it to the Pot on the stove that had the 30/70 in it and again rinsed it out. This time the water really bubbled when I rinsed the tube. Grabbed a couple paper towels and immediately stuffed them through an while there is a hint of the deposits still around I'm looking down to my right now and you can't even tell they're there. Almost looks like a brand new Reservoir.









What do you guys think?

B4...

After...


















~Ceadder


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fasadi*
> 
> Agreed, I mostly just _want_ to be in this club. I'll sort out any difficulties that arise, but with something that looks that cool...I'll take the chances.


I gave an arm and leg for my Frozenq reservoir so you are not alone mate lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well, I finally finished cleaning the Reservoir. It's not gonna be 100% crystal clear but it took a lot of fussing to get it to where the acrylic is liveable. I tried a 30/70 Vinegar/Distilled solution. Mineral deposits just laughed.
> Went 100% Vinegar in a 3 cup jigger for 10 minutes, flip, 10 minutes, flip session. Nothing. Deposits were still just as bad as when I got this. Finally I got the Baking Soda put about 3 or 4 tbsp. in a small bowl and used vinegar and hydrogen peroxide together to create a paste. Coated the inside of the tube and let stand for 10 minutes. Slight improvement but wasn't doing anything for the most part. That's when I got serious and went to the fridge, grabbed the squeezie lime and added a bit to the mix. Oh man that soda frothed up real good when I added the lime juice. Again coated the inside of the tube and let it stand for 10 minutes more and then took it to the Pot on the stove that had the 30/70 in it and again rinsed it out. This time the water really bubbled when I rinsed the tube. Grabbed a couple paper towels and immediately stuffed them through an while there is a hint of the deposits still around I'm looking down to my right now and you can't even tell they're there. Almost looks like a brand new Reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?
> B4...
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1883626/width/600/height/338/flags/
> After...
> ~Ceadder


I think you did a great job cleaning it ! I actually used one of those Novus acrylic cleaner before I mounted mine up. It shines after. I didn't had much problems getting mine off just alittle of elbow grease and the caps were off. I have heard many complaints of bad worksmanship but I think they have gotten better over the years from learning from their not so good first versions. The threads on mine are pretty perfect and straight imo just like those on the EK ones compared to some really bad pics I seen people posting up of first versions. I also want to get a red/orange dual reservoir which are pretty new and so they had some issues with the pump mounts few months ago. Probably let them sort the issues out abit before burning my pocket again.

So when are we going to see that res in your build


----------



## Ceadderman

Someone got greedy with the Radiators in Marketplace, otherwise it would have been soon. My max overall thickness is ~60mm or thereabouts cause I don't want my window filled with Radiator an Fans. That leaves me without a lot of viable options. Not bad mouthing the seller, he wanted to sell an he sold. But some guys see Radiators and they just have to have em all.









$42 for a 360 tho, so I really can't blame the man, but that just put my build on hold til I can either find a similar price in marketplace or til I have enough together to buy new and have it shipped.









Anyways, thanks for the encouraging words on the cleaning. It was a lot more fun than I made it sound though. It allowed the mad scientist part of me to come out an get busy.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Update to my last build.


----------



## Tipless

finally got my inverter:


----------



## Dredknot

Very Nice is that Blue helix with Green coolant


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> finally got my inverter:












I think this is the next item to get for my system. Only Black helices an replace the UV with Red. That would look absolutely SICK(!) in the front of my system.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

Yes it is blue helix with distilled water and supercoolant. Supercoolant has uv reactive properties so it looks cool.


----------



## tlxxxsracer

Heres mine







Sorry for the poor picture quality. Ill have better pictures this month

































School final project I quickly put together


----------



## nicodemus

yeah, i have to say, i have mixed feelings about my res.

it's lovely, no question, but it's troublesome and the workmanship and professionalism leaves a bit to be desired.

first i received a faulty pump top. i had a lengthy RMA process. Alex wa responsive at first, but then became uncommunicative. i did eventually receive my replacement top, which worked fine, and i'm really glad and impressed that he did sort it out and help me out, but it did take a while.

but unfortunately it seems the whole reservoir itself has been causing me nothing but problems.

1) One of the screw holders (not sure what they are actually called) is coming unsecure from the acetal.

2) The inner acrylic tube that holds the UV cathode has a crack in it and is taking in coolant that is slowly seeping out of the wire port on the side. (this damaged my fan controller already.) On top of that, now rust is forming inside the tube with the cathode (which will eventually burn out due to the water incursion.)

3) Water is now passing the o-ring around the front acrylic face and is seeping through the sides of the front face.

i really want to get this to work, as the piece is lovely and a real eye catcher. i'm going to try and RMA again, this time of the whole res, and see if i can get a better piece. if that one is also faulty, i'll have to replace it with a competitor.

due to the problems i've had so far, i can't really recommend these products. i want to, i really do, but the security isn't there because the craftsmanship is, right now and much to my dismay, subpar. =(


----------



## Deeks

I just received my reservoir and Ive noticed the threads seems extremely tight. i haven't installed it yet. has anyone else had thread issues or am i just over worrying ?


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deeks*
> 
> I just received my reservoir and Ive noticed the threads seems extremely tight. i haven't installed it yet. has anyone else had thread issues or am i just o
> 
> I would say your wrrying too much. Start it by hand Nd then take it the rest of the way with wrenchver worrying ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deeks*
> 
> I just received my reservoir and Ive noticed the threads seems extremely tight. i haven't installed it yet. has anyone else had thread issues or am i just o
> 
> 
> 
> I would say your wrrying too much. Start it by hand Nd then take it the rest of the way with wrenchver worrying ?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I would say dude is worrying too. The Reservoirs are fine, it's just the odd one that has an issue. The workmanship on mine is below adequate imho, but it doesn't affect the operation of the Reservoir. When I had mine apart, I checked the inner ccl tube and didn't see any cracks. I think that's a result of someone getting ham fisted during the assembly process. Plastic is not metal. If you put too much pressure on it, it will crack and eventually break. The trick is to know your own strength and how to be gentle when the situation calls for it.









~Ceadder


----------



## CjGemini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Update to my last build.


Man that looks delicious!!









@ceadderman Good job with that cleaning looks good, suck that you had to go through all that though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> @ceadderman Good job with that cleaning looks good, suck that you had to go through all that though.


Thanks.

I din't mind near as much as I made out to. It looks good so I have the satifaction of that to look back on.









If it had not worked, I could just get another tube. But at least it did and that's what matters.









~Ceadder


----------



## Frozen-Q

Didn't quite know this existed, but I appreciate the support from those who have posted some awesome pictures. I just want to address a few things to the general public since I know it affects a few people in this thread.

- Our parts had been previously machined from a local machine shop where the quality was very good, but last year they were unfortunately shut down by their bank and within an hours notice, I was informed they could no longer be our primary producer of our parts. So in June of last year we purchased a larger location, and acquired our own CNC equipment. Now to clear things up, yes I am 20, and no I'm not making tons of dough. I immediately put any money made back into the business and am making efforts to further our products (which I'll get to) I do have a considerable amount of experience in this area but as a machinist I was new to the situation last June when we got our first equipment. I've come a very very long way since then in terms of quality and execution, but I admit I do have more to learn.

- In regards to some of the problems with the reservoirs, many have been addressed. As of today all new reservoirs have a new revision to them to really up the quality and practicality. Instead of a light tube shell that is threaded on one end and sealed with teflon (which frequently could leak or crack) and the nylon acorn cap (which also could crack off under pressure or leak), we have redesigned it to use an un-machined tube that seals in both ends of the reservoir with press fit o-ring seals. This will be the same for the bay reservoirs as well. I have rigorously tested this for quite some time now, and I'm happy to say I've had 100% success in the tests I've run.

- Tolerances for the tubes are being taken much more seriously to avoid the problems with unscrewing the caps. We always check to make sure they come unscrewed once on, but that doesn't mean they don't seize up over time. So we are making sure they are much looser in the future to avoid this problem.

- If you have had problems with reservoirs, and have had difficulties contacting me I do apologize. I've been under an extreme amount of stress with the volume of work to do and the renovations and headaches still going on with our new building. I used to have at least 4-6 hours a day to devote to OCN and emails. However in recent months I typically spend about 10-12 hours a day in the shop and get no more than an hour at my computer. We do now have Mallory who handles our orders and some emails, which takes some burden off my shoulders, but alas it's still a slow transition since she is not full time.

If anything, please know I aim for only the best and will do what it takes to correct any problem. I am working hard on moving forward, upping the quality, and having quicker turnaround times 95% of the time I'm awake. If you still haven't heard back from me via email please send a new email to [email protected] If you are still waiting on an order to go out we have a significant amount of orders going out between today and tomorrow.


----------



## nicodemus

that's great to hear, alex! good looking out. i hope to RMA my current model Fusion Dual Bay for one of your newer models.

i hope you also know that we definitely love your products, and if we critique it's only because we care.

i'm dedicated to trying to get this working, and i'm glad to hear that you are too!

i can definitely tell you that whenever anyone checks out my rig, it's your piece that always draws them in first and gets the "wow!" =D

so be proud and stick with it, and we'll stick by you! =)


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicodemus*
> 
> that's great to hear, alex! good looking out. i hope to RMA my current model Fusion Dual Bay for one of your newer models.
> i hope you also know that we definitely love your products, and if we critique it's only because we care.
> i'm dedicated to trying to get this working, and i'm glad to hear that you are too!
> i can definitely tell you that whenever anyone checks out my rig, it's your piece that always draws them in first and gets the "wow!" =D
> so be proud and stick with it, and we'll stick by you! =)


i second all of that except the rma lol. i have had my res for a while now and while there were some machining marks visible(barely) this was one of the error batches that was sold at a discount price. even with it being an error model i see nothing wrong with even the slight machining marks it has.
these reservoirs are top quality and as you all can see from Alex's post above, he has a very dedicated mind frame and a very positive customer support attitude.

i will definitely be buying from him soon!


----------



## netdevil

Hi Alex,

Nice to see you here.I am loving the Fusion V blue with clear caps I ordered from you last year. It definitely catches the eye of anyone first whenever I post my rig as in the silverstone club thread . I would like to say keep up the good work and keep it coming, look forward to purchasing the dual bay res this time for another build of mine


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesome to hear Alex.









Would like to know if you plan on offering other CCLs' besides UV. Don't get me wrong I like the UV look, but for some of us UV would clash with our builds. I myself am in need of Red CCL. So is there any plan to expand availability in this regard?









Keep up the good work.









~Ceadder


----------



## CjGemini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Awesome to hear Alex.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to know if you plan on offering other CCLs' besides UV. Don't get me wrong I like the UV look, but for some of us UV would clash with our builds. I myself am in need of Red CCL. So is there any plan to expand availability in this regard?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just buy any color 8" CCL and break it open(It's really easy to do) just don't aim where the bulb is


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Awesome to hear Alex.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would like to know if you plan on offering other CCLs' besides UV. Don't get me wrong I like the UV look, but for some of us UV would clash with our builds. I myself am in need of Red CCL. So is there any plan to expand availability in this regard?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep up the good work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just buy any color 8" CCL and break it open(It's really easy to do) just don't aim where the bulb is
Click to expand...











I'm very handy but I'd rather not break one open if I can get it from the source.









I'll probably do it anyway, but just would like to see Alex offer a wider variety of CCL bulbs.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Man that looks delicious!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ceadderman Good job with that cleaning looks good, suck that you had to go through all that though.


Thank u. Next Tue I'm ordering all of the water blocks for my 580s so I'll post another update when I get them installed


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very handy but I'd rather not break one open if I can get it from the source.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll probably do it anyway, but just would like to see Alex offer a wider variety of CCL bulbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Personally I wouldn't try and crack them out yourself. Likely you'll break several in the process because its a major PITA to do.

We don't offer colored CCFL's because we have very little demand for them, however we can still special order them in for you at the same price of a normal replacement bulb. Maybe in the near future I'll stock a small amount here.


----------



## SwishaMane

Still rockin my t-virus res...



Even tho I obviously scratched my end cap,


----------



## Tipless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Still rockin my t-virus res...
> 
> Even tho I obviously scratched my end cap,


if thats brushed aluminum... get a wire brush drill attachment and go to town. itll polish it right out


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very handy but I'd rather not break one open if I can get it from the source.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll probably do it anyway, but just would like to see Alex offer a wider variety of CCL bulbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Personally I wouldn't try and crack them out yourself. Likely you'll break several in the process because its a major PITA to do.
> 
> We don't offer colored CCFL's because we have very little demand for them, however we can still special order them in for you at the same price of a normal replacement bulb. Maybe in the near future I'll stock a small amount here.
Click to expand...

Hahaha you don't know me too well.









I don't wanna but if push comes to shove, I won't even think twice. I grew up around a shop. My Grandfather was a Master Electrician who was a licensed HAMM operator (W6JIC) who built his own equipment and was into model railroading. We did all kinds of these projects together. And my Uncle had me around his Machine Shop for more than just moral support. I'm not your average tinkerer.







heheh










I swapped out the LEDs' in my 932 from the Lazer brite Blues to a more palatable Low Intensity Reds. But if you could get some bare CCLs' in Red that would be awesome My system is Red and Black and while UV looks kewl, I have a specific theme that I'd like to stick to.









I plan on cutting the solid panel door and putting a laser etched plexi window in it next.









I love my Frozen Q Res btw.










Will be looking to add a Bay Res to Replace my DD Fillport/Res. That way I can fill my system and actually SEE when it needs to be topped off. Not to mention my Radiator is gonna be running right into the DD unit.


















~Ceadder


----------



## koven

Mine's been running great for over a year now.


----------



## netdevil

^

That looks beautiful, may I know what color is the helix?( cant say for sure)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *netdevil*
> 
> ^
> 
> That looks beautiful, may I know what color is the helix?( cant say for sure)


Looks like White or Blue.









~Ceadder


----------



## crazyg0od33

I'm getting this res for my upcoming build, but im getting stuck on how you guys are running/bleeding these reservoirs? Do you recommend having the two ports being up top, one for in and one for bleeding, or do you recommend the one up top and 2 on the bottom? if so, how do you fill/bleed this way? ALSO, I have seen someone running theirs with the two port side being the bottom, and having both in and out going/coming from the bottom. how well would this work?
Thanks


----------



## Dredknot

If u run with the return on the top of the red u have to have a fill port that comes off the top also otherwise it will not fill up all the way and it causes massive air bubbles. I've also ran my with both the inlet and outlet on the bottom of my res with no problem doesn't effect performance in any way. But having the return on the top definatly cuts down on tubing clutter


----------



## crazyg0od33

So would you recommend having the single port cap as the bottom, and the two port as the top? One for filling, and one as the inlet from the loop?


----------



## Dredknot

Ya ive had it both ways but i defiantly prefer having the two ports up top and the single on bottom. But it depends on how your system is set up. But like i said if you wish to have the inlet the the res on the to and the outlet to the pump on bottom u have to have a way to fill the reservoir up completely full otherwise it will cause a vortex which creates bubbles. At least it did in my res.


----------



## Ceadderman

Mine is connected via single port to my Dual DDC Res now. So the two ports are facing up with one as Fill and one as Inlet. The only problem I see with this is if you somehow spring a leak and the tubing acts like a wick bringing the coolant down to the top of the Res. To my knowledge there isn't a plug to seal the CCL tube. Though one could be made pretty easily with some silicon caulking to seal it and should be able to withstand any leak while being able to be removed from the tube when it comes time to change the CCL.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Didn't quite know this existed, but I appreciate the support from those who have posted some awesome pictures. I just want to address a few things to the general public since I know it affects a few people in this thread.
> 
> - Our parts had been previously machined from a local machine shop where the quality was very good, but last year they were unfortunately shut down by their bank and within an hours notice, I was informed they could no longer be our primary producer of our parts. So in June of last year we purchased a larger location, and acquired our own CNC equipment. Now to clear things up, yes I am 20, and no I'm not making tons of dough. I immediately put any money made back into the business and am making efforts to further our products (which I'll get to) I do have a considerable amount of experience in this area but as a machinist I was new to the situation last June when we got our first equipment. I've come a very very long way since then in terms of quality and execution, but I admit I do have more to learn.
> 
> - In regards to some of the problems with the reservoirs, many have been addressed. As of today all new reservoirs have a new revision to them to really up the quality and practicality. Instead of a light tube shell that is threaded on one end and sealed with teflon (which frequently could leak or crack) and the nylon acorn cap (which also could crack off under pressure or leak), we have redesigned it to use an un-machined tube that seals in both ends of the reservoir with press fit o-ring seals. This will be the same for the bay reservoirs as well. I have rigorously tested this for quite some time now, and I'm happy to say I've had 100% success in the tests I've run.
> 
> - Tolerances for the tubes are being taken much more seriously to avoid the problems with unscrewing the caps. We always check to make sure they come unscrewed once on, but that doesn't mean they don't seize up over time. So we are making sure they are much looser in the future to avoid this problem.
> 
> - If you have had problems with reservoirs, and have had difficulties contacting me I do apologize. I've been under an extreme amount of stress with the volume of work to do and the renovations and headaches still going on with our new building. I used to have at least 4-6 hours a day to devote to OCN and emails. However in recent months I typically spend about 10-12 hours a day in the shop and get no more than an hour at my computer. We do now have Mallory who handles our orders and some emails, which takes some burden off my shoulders, but alas it's still a slow transition since she is not full time.
> 
> If anything, please know I aim for only the best and will do what it takes to correct any problem. I am working hard on moving forward, upping the quality, and having quicker turnaround times 95% of the time I'm awake. If you still haven't heard back from me via email please send a new email to [email protected] If you are still waiting on an order to go out we have a significant amount of orders going out between today and tomorrow.


Good to hear Alex. I will add this post to the OP. Keep up the wonderful work







I'll be placing an order for a 400mm soon hopefully


----------



## netdevil

derrick, could you add me to the list please? I've been here awhile


----------



## Tnog

I'd like to join, I've got 2 of them in my 700D. I absolutely love the look of them and they are always a talking point when someone asks me about my rig.

FrozenQ PC Mods 250mm Liquid Fusion V Series "2nd Generation" Reservoir - UV Cathode - UV Blue Helix

Here's a link to a gallery with more pics.


----------



## Dredknot

LOL wow! i had trouble fitting one in my case let alone 2. Props to you. looks great!


----------



## Tnog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> LOL wow! i had trouble fitting one in my case let alone 2. Props to you. looks great!


Thanks, I appreciate that. I wanted to make my build a little unique and hadn't see too many others with 2 of the frozen q res's. There's also 2 stealth 360 rads crammed up top sandwiched between a bunch of gentle typhoons







.


----------



## Ceadderman

I'll bet that musta been real fun setting up those 360s'.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tipless

sweet looking rig!


----------



## crazyg0od33

mine just came in today, will post pics when I'm home next week!


----------



## Tnog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'll bet that musta been real fun setting up those 360s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> sweet looking rig!


Thanks, and it certainly was interesting getting everything to fit inside my case. I ended up installing the rad's first before anything else. Should be equally fun taking it apart to clean in the coming months







Here's a link to more pics of the build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tnog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I'll bet that musta been real fun setting up those 360s'.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> sweet looking rig!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks, and it certainly was interesting getting everything to fit inside my case. I ended up installing the rad's first before anything else. Should be equally fun taking it apart to clean in the coming months
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a link to more pics of the build.
Click to expand...

Your SB Block got in the way of your Backplates didn't it.









An enterprising gent would have altered them to make em fit.









Excellent build log though. Set up quite well.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tnog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Your SB Block got in the way of your Backplates didn't it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> An enterprising gent would have altered them to make em fit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent build log though. Set up quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes they did







, I found out very quickly that I'd have to either ditch them or mod them. I figured when I upgrade to a new mobo and chip I'll be able to use them then so I opted to leave them off for the time being and not mod them and possibly mess up that nice shiny finish they have







.


----------



## derickwm

Apologies guys. I will update the list soon







don't worry I haven't forgotten


----------



## grimmy

put me in the club







Liquid Fusion V Series 400mm

mine came in the the other day







.... how ever im waiting on a new cap,, the one i got was a misunderstanding but alex is hooking me up and should be arriving tomorrow







those guys know how to get **** done







so for now here is jsut a mock up of the res and look


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> mine came in the the other day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... how ever im waiting on a new cap,, the one i got was a misunderstanding but alex is hooking me up and should be arriving tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> those guys know how to get **** done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so for now here is jsut a mock up of the res and look


DUDE! I have been waiting to see the 400mm res in action that this is ridiculous!


----------



## grimmy

haha i no man i cant wait to test it either im hoping sat ill have a test run once i get the new caps... im going to do a water fall effect sicne its so dam big( depeindign how loud it is ill keep it half filled or not)


----------



## derickwm

^Is that the 400mm version? Been wanting to get one. Is it just the picture or is the cathode not lighting the bottom bit?


----------



## grimmy

no the cathoode is lighting up all the way. how ever the tube is longer than the cathode by an inch or so : /... i will have the inch recessed in myc ase hidden anyway tho but ya its a bit "to big"


----------



## derickwm

That's actually kind of sad...and disheartening. You would think that shouldn't be an issue. Were you aware of that before you bought? I know I wasn't... thanks for the heads up


----------



## grimmy

i had a feeling when i was doing the meserments. how ever mayb its a smaller rod i do have an extra 15inch? rod so when i take the caps of and replace them ill check to see what size the rod in the res is as to the long one i have... it is kinda upseting but like i said luckly the way im mounting it, it wont be noticeable


----------



## Ceadderman

Meh, just get a 15" UV cat and it will light up all the way through.









~Ceadder


----------



## Captivate

Still waiting on my res. Ordered a week ago, haven't heard anything about it yet.


----------



## manu97416

Hi guys im about to buy the 400 mm liquid fusion V tri spiral or normal still need to decide, im getting the florescent red and wanted to know the bulb works? do i need to buy the seperate Inverter?
Opinions about getting the tri spiral or the normal one would be great!
will it fit in a th10 case and how do i mount it ?
Thanks


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> Still waiting on my res. Ordered a week ago, haven't heard anything about it yet.


It takes a bit to have it shipped. Mine took about 20 days to ship, but they were also hosting an event one of the weekends, so it's understandable. I would just say definitely not something to order if you are in a really big time crunch. Awesome custom work takes some time


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manu97416*
> 
> Hi guys im about to buy the 400 mm liquid fusion V tri spiral or normal still need to decide, im getting the florescent red and wanted to know the bulb works? do i need to buy the seperate Inverter?
> Opinions about getting the tri spiral or the normal one would be great!
> will it fit in a th10 case and how do i mount it ?
> Thanks


It will come with everything you need to get the CCL working as far as I am aware.









Go with Tri. Everyone does double Helices. Stand out from the crowd.









~Ceadder


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It will come with everything you need to get the CCL working as far as I am aware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go with Tri. Everyone does double Helices. Stand out from the crowd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think you need an inverter, but i may be wrong


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It will come with everything you need to get the CCL working as far as I am aware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go with Tri. Everyone does double Helices. Stand out from the crowd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you need an inverter, but i may be wrong
Click to expand...

Mine came with the inverter. I'm pretty sure they all come with. But like you I may be wrong too.









Mine came with sound inverter. But I got mine used. I would think they come with the blue box at worst. Since nothing lights up without the inverter.









Unboxing Vid might resolve this conundrum.













~Ceadder


----------



## scutzi128

Mine did not come with an inverter fyi. I had an issue with my res but it was quickly fixed by frozen q. They are a great company and I would not hesitate to buy another one of their products again.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well that's just crazy. You need the inverter to make the blasted thing work after all.









I just went to PPCs', who I know stocks these Reservoirs and they seem to be holding the inverter hostage. You have to order the inverter for an extra $6. Can't believe you have to pay for something you should get with the product.









I guess only Alex can resolve this issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tipless*
> 
> if thats brushed aluminum... get a wire brush drill attachment and go to town. itll polish it right out


Wow, didnt think of that, thanks man, might try it...


----------



## grimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ^Is that the 400mm version? Been wanting to get one. Is it just the picture or is the cathode not lighting the bottom bit?


ya its all better now and the stock cathode fits well i jsut pulled mien to be off center i fiexed it after i replaced the end caps


----------



## nicodemus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well that's just crazy. You need the inverter to make the blasted thing work after all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just went to PPCs', who I know stocks these Reservoirs and they seem to be holding the inverter hostage. You have to order the inverter for an extra $6. Can't believe you have to pay for something you should get with the product.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess only Alex can resolve this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


inverter is sold separately. buyer is expected to understand what is needed to make it work. similar to "batteries not included."









FrozenCPU, knowing it doesn't come with an inverter but that it does need one, offers to add one to your order for $5 there abouts. i imagine PPCs does the same. they're basically doing us a solid by letting us know, and doing business by offering to provide what we need.


----------



## chewdude

Great looking rigs guys very cool. You can throw me in the mix if you get the time.


----------



## Ceadderman

@grimmy... I'd like that 400 even more if it weren't sitting on your lap.









Just sayin.









~Ceadder


----------



## derickwm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> ^Is that the 400mm version? Been wanting to get one. Is it just the picture or is the cathode not lighting the bottom bit?
> 
> 
> 
> ya its all better now and the stock cathode fits well i jsut pulled mien to be off center i fiexed it after i replaced the end caps
Click to expand...

Oh that does look slightly better. Thanks for the update


----------



## grimmy

ya







..... hopefull this week ill have it fully installed.... jsut gottat do a few more case mods mainly paint -_-

heres a test run tho (pump and res only)



SONICBOOM!


----------



## amatthie

Would love to join the club, ordered my Blue 250mm w/ clear caps 2 months ago. Pictures will come when I finally receive my res and get finish my loop.


----------



## Captivate

You ordered a res and haven't received it after 2 months?!


----------



## netdevil

My res(exact same thing as what amatthie ordered) took a little more than 2 months as well


----------



## Captivate

What the...it says 10-14 business days on the site. The reservoir is the last thing I need in my set up, tempted to cancel the order and order it (or a different res) somewhere else...


----------



## manu97416

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> What the...it says 10-14 business days on the site. The reservoir is the last thing I need in my set up, tempted to cancel the order and order it (or a different res) somewhere else...


I think its 10-14 business days until they finish making the damn thing lol....
thats why they say different numbers of days for the double helix and the tri spiral (which i ordered







)


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> What the...it says 10-14 business days on the site. The reservoir is the last thing I need in my set up, tempted to cancel the order and order it (or a different res) somewhere else...


It might only have been that long for me as I haven't seen anyone else saying their order took as long as mine until now lol( I am not based in the US). Maybe they were hiccups during the time of my order as well, perhaps you could clarify with the other members.


----------



## crazyg0od33

well, it depends on when you ordered. a couple weeks ago they hosted a weekend long event, which pushed my order back about 3 days. But I'm also pretty confident that if you're out of the US it takes a while. The only people I've heard have shipping times that long so far are out of the US


----------



## Captivate

I'm in the US and ordered 10 days ago, and haven't heard a thing yet







I was hoping it would arrive this week during spring break so I have lots of time to play.


----------



## Shaitan

This reservoir is what made me want to watercool my machine











FrozenQ 250mm UV blue


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> I'm in the US and ordered 10 days ago, and haven't heard a thing yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was hoping it would arrive this week during spring break so I have lots of time to play.


it took 16 days for mine to ship, with the weekend included. also, keep in mind they say 10-14 BUSINESS days, so that doesnt include weekends, and they are hosting an event this weekend I believe...I do think they should have some middle step between processing and shipping on their site, so we know if it's even moving along, but it's def. going to take the whole 2 weeks time


----------



## Captivate

The side ports, are they extra holes or replacements holes compared to the original?


----------



## crazyg0od33

replacement I believe, thats extra work if I'm correct...


----------



## Dredknot

Here is a update to my newer build. Thinking i might get the red and white helix res soon.


----------



## amatthie

I'm based in the US. I received an email from them on Feb 10 about inadequate supplies and stated in the email they would try to get my res out that week. Since then I've tried to contact them twice with no response. I'll keep waiting but getting anxious. Just tempted to buy a temp res to get my loop started.


----------



## Captivate

What did you order?


----------



## amatthie

Liquid Fusion - 250mm

Helix Rod Color One
Fluorescent Blue
Helix Rod Color Two
Fluorescent Blue
Side Ports
Yes
w/ clear caps


----------



## Captivate

Man, feb 10th is a LONG wait. I have all my parts, but I'm just waiting on the reservoir. I ordered a 250mm with double fluo blue and side ports, but I ordered it this month. I don't want to wait till april, lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Here is a update to my newer build. Thinking i might get the red and white helix res soon.


Just order the Helices from them if you're only gonna be changing the color. Unless you want 2 Reservoirs of course.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amatthie*
> 
> Liquid Fusion - 250mm
> 
> Helix Rod Color One
> Fluorescent Blue
> Helix Rod Color Two
> Fluorescent Blue
> *Side Ports*
> Yes
> w/ clear caps


The standard to my knowledge doesn't initially come with the side ports. So compounded with the lack of material, I'm pretty sure that this is what the hold up is. Just gotta have some patience I guess.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> Man, feb 10th is a LONG wait. I have all my parts, but I'm just waiting on the reservoir. I ordered a 250mm with double fluo blue and side ports, but I ordered it this month. I don't want to wait till april, lol.


Well, you could always mod the look of your system(some more?) while you wait for the Reservoir. Won't completely take your mind off the wait but it does help. I always find myself modding something on Darkside while I await the arrival of parts.









~Ceadder


----------



## amatthie

An update guys. Received via email that my res is ready to ship!









I felt i am being rather patient the only thing that got me was their lack of communicating with me after their Feb 10 email, I waited a month before contacting them for an update for I understood the circumstances they were in, lack of supplies and the revision to their reservoirs. Ah well, I"m sure I'll be very pleased with the quality of the work and it will be well worth the wait.


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amatthie*
> 
> An update guys. Received via email that my res is ready to ship!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I felt i am being rather patient the only thing that got me was their lack of communicating with me after their Feb 10 email, I waited a month before contacting them for an update for I understood the circumstances they were in, lack of supplies and the revision to their reservoirs. Ah well, I"m sure I'll be very pleased with the quality of the work and it will be well worth the wait.


I agree. I had to contact them as wel to get any indication, and even when I did the only response was:
"We are processing your reservoir. We will update the order when shipped"
It's at my house waiting for me, I still havent seen it yet


----------



## Dredknot

Just placed an order for a blood red and white helix for a 250mm. Hopefully it doesnt take as long : (


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just order the Helices from them if you're only gonna be changing the color. Unless you want 2 Reservoirs of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thx for the tip! saved me some money lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just order the Helices from them if you're only gonna be changing the color. Unless you want 2 Reservoirs of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thx for the tip! saved me some money lol
Click to expand...

You're welcome. I'm considering getting replacement Helices in Black/White or Black/Blood Red which is why I knew you could get replacements.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You're welcome. I'm considering getting replacement Helices in Black/White or Black/Blood Red which is why I knew you could get replacements.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lol ya it didnt even occur to me u could. just anxious to see how long its gonna take.


----------



## crazyg0od33

Got mine in!
w00t


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> Got mine in!
> w00t


That thing looks like a fuse you would put in my old Datsun 510.









Love those colors of your Helices though. Awesome!









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Nice! I just ordered the same color helix but the 250mm res. Turn it on so we can see it. Blood red and white I take it?


----------



## crazyg0od33

yeah. I would turn it on, but i dont have an inverter atm...
Going to local microcenter tomorrow though so I'll get pics tomorrow.
If I want to replace the cathose, or get a diff. color, etc, what do I get? It looks like its just the core of a cathode, not the tube itself?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> yeah. I would turn it on, but i dont have an inverter atm...
> Going to local microcenter tomorrow though so I'll get pics tomorrow.
> If I want to replace the cathose, or get a diff. color, etc, what do I get? *It looks like its just the core of a cathode, not the tube itself?*


Yep. I know that the 250mm would require an 8" CCL not sure what size your new Res is but I'm thinking that you would need a 4 or 6" CCL. You'd have to remove it from the casing very carefully though. If you have a Dremel you can cut through the end caps to remove the bulb from the casing fairly easily.

If you want to just buy the UV cat to replace a burned out unit you can get those through the Frozen Q site.









~Ceadder


----------



## crazyg0od33

hmmm..i dont think I'll need to cut anything..my bulb just slides in and out.
But ill look at frozen if I need one


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> hmmm..i dont think I'll need to cut anything..my bulb just slides in and out.
> But ill look at frozen if I need one


Haha. No sir. I was not talking about the CCL in the Liquid Fusion Res. You don't have to cut into that to slide the old one out. Holy hell man you take me for daft?









I was saying that if you want to replace it with another ccl of a different color, you would have to do that to a new CCL to get the bulb out of it so you can slide it into the place of the original. If you want UV bulbs, Alex has bare bulbs on his site.









But in no way was I suggesting hacking up anything on that gorgeous Reservoir. I bet you thought I was off my nut huh.









~Ceadder


----------



## crazyg0od33

Haha. A little bit.


----------



## Captivate

I wish mine was already here!! Grrr...


----------



## CjGemini

Nice I love my the Red and white in mine


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

Add me please








And by god that reservoir has been a pain. Had multiple replacements and all they do is leak, but they do make the build look good.

Liquid Fusion V Series resevoir 400mm UV Blue, side ports.


No longer together tho, in the process of revamping that build with the full x79 treatment. Farewell x58


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Nice I love my the Red and white in mine


your build made me buy it lol. That rig is Awesome!


----------



## Captivate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> Add me please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And by god that reservoir has been a pain. Had multiple replacements and all they do is leak, but they do make the build look good.
> Liquid Fusion V Series resevoir 400mm UV Blue, side ports.
> 
> No longer together tho, in the process of revamping that build with the full x79 treatment. Farewell x58


Woah that looks sick dude!


----------



## jcrouse

I will join the group when I get home this evening, at work now. I have had one of the 160mm tube reservoirs for about 6 months. I am re-doing my loop and wish to use the reservoir in what I would call an inverted position, meaning the two side ports will be at the bottom. Without reading all 21 pages, knowing there are (were) some quality issues, do I need to worry much about the small hole in what will be the middle of the bottom (where the small tube is), leaking if it is inverted?

If you click on my build log link in my sig you can see the setup in the picture of post 71, the top post on page 8. I want the return lines to enter at the bottom, hence I wish to invert the reservoir.

Thoughts?
John


----------



## CjGemini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> your build made me buy it lol. That rig is Awesome!










Thanks for the compliment, your rig looks good too.


----------



## Dredknot

Cant wait to get the helix though just gonna look that much better lol. bought the green to match my old rig and then decided i wanted red tubing lol


----------



## crazyg0od33

so I turned on my res. today. I have to say I'm a little underwhelmed...Neither of my 2 helices are UV reactive, but the cold cathode it came with is UV. Also, the cathode itself is VERY dim, and I have a hard time believing that it would even light up a UV reactive helix, thats how dim it is.
Now I need to go buy another cathode, a white one, so that the res looks like it was supposed to.


----------



## crazyg0od33

Although it could be because I wasn't in a completely dark room. I'll have to check later.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> Although it could be because I wasn't in a completely dark room. I'll have to check later.












Was there a solar flare occurring when you tried it?







lol j/k

Still I would think a darker room would make a bit of a difference. I plugged in my bro's cats to test the inverter I got with mine and I think they were bright because they were together when they were lit.









Still, your choice of helices aren't UV reactive so it shouldn't put you off. You should do like I'ma do with my UV Red Helices, go with Red cat. You'll have to break it out of the casing but should be very nice with your set up.









~Ceadder


----------



## crazyg0od33

Yeah I may do that. If I was home id put up a picture. Later lol


----------



## crazyg0od33

Some interesting findings to report.
So I came back from the city and tried finding out why the reservoir seemed so dul. I switched the bulb to enter from the other side and voila! Instantly brighter for some reason. So then. Tried putting it back in the same side as I originally had it in. Dull again. Now I tried pushing the bulb further into the res. instantly brighter. So for now I'll just leave it as is. I really do like it now. Very cool looking.


----------



## nicodemus

that's good, glad to hear it. =)

got my replacement res in. i want to applaud alex for his dedication and willingness to stand by his products.

working well, no leaks. the new revision seems to be a much better design than the old model i had. it's even brighter, as well.

if i have one item of constructive criticism right now, it'd be the the bits on the res (i have the bay res) that the screws screw into when mounting the pump. they have a tendency to not remain secure, so they pop out, or get stuck on the screw so you can't unscrew the screw (ie. they turn when i turn the screw.) so maybe something worth looking into.

this can make it difficult to work with, but otherwise i'm very happy right now.


----------



## amatthie

Finally got my res 4 days ago, the wait was well worth it!


----------



## evil jerry

I have to say my service with Frozen Q has been top notch. Mallory is who helped me and she was awesome!!!!!!!

I have a white helix dual bay Res with a D5 pump top. I got it in January and the res is in perfect condition, less the one weeks use on the Res and pump top.

I bought this for my lanboy for the two weeks I had it in White carbon fiber but changed my build completely. Was wondering if anyone wanted to trade me a blue helix cylinder res.

I would also be willing to trade my D5 also if you have a comparable pump.
PM to inquire. I will open up an ad on The for sale area but I figured the target group for this trade would be here.


----------



## nicodemus

lovely, amatthie!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amatthie*
> 
> Finally got my res 4 days ago, the wait was well worth it!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


This gorgeous Res needs a white Case now.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evil jerry*
> 
> I have to say my service with Frozen Q has been top notch. Mallory is who helped me and she was awesome!!!!!!!
> 
> I have a white helix dual bay Res with a D5 pump top. I got it in January and the res is in perfect condition, less the one weeks use on the Res and pump top.
> 
> I bought this for my lanboy for the two weeks I had it in White carbon fiber but changed my build completely. Was wondering if anyone wanted to trade me a blue helix cylinder res.
> 
> I would also be willing to trade my D5 also if you have a comparable pump.
> PM to inquire. I will open up an ad on The for sale area but I figured the target group for this trade would be here.


Probably should post some pics in spoiler tag. I'm sure someone wouldn't mind a trade.









~Ceadder


----------



## goodtobeking

Awesome thread. I have had mine for a long time. It was the first piece of my WCing adventure. I seen it on FrozenCPU for over 100 bucks and was drooling but told myself it was way to much money. Then I seen this thread over a year ago and got myself one for a great discount. Pure WIN, been loving it ever since.

It is the model that was made before the better design, Gen V I believe, and does have some flaws. Which includes micro cracks on the inter CCFL tube and some by the glued endcaps, but still running without any leaks. Havnt had any leaks since I got the pump top and mounted my reservoir directly to my pump. Which means no barbs, all fittings are either directly threaded or compression fittings.

The above thread is where I bought it, so does that count as the link needed??

And he is my Corsair 600T as of about 2 months ago running BOINC at 95% GPU/CPU



The beast at rest



My Antec 300 that I had, before I upgraded to the 600T



And as for Frozen_Q, Alex, He is a great guy that has always responded fast and been very helpful and understanding. I broke 3 cathodes already, 1 before I even had half my WCing parts, and then a couple times while mocking/modding cases. Always fast turnaround and good responses.


----------



## Captivate

Been waiting on my res for over 3 weeks :| Glad I bought a temporary res at microcenter. But can't wait till I get the res though, it will look sick! ;D


----------



## Deeks

here is my Frozen Q Res. Need to still sleeve wires and do some cable management before setup is done but runs well for now until i get that done!


----------



## Obiwanshinobi

Hi, I'm planning on doing an upgrade soon. I'm going to pull apart my watercooling loop, replace the tubing with some masterkleer and get a new res among other things. I really want to get one of these frozenQ dual bay helix -uv green ones. But I'm going to put green UV additive to the liquid to make the entire loop uv green reactive with some UV LED sunsticks. I was wondering if anyone else has done that and if it washed out the visibility of the green uv helix from to the green uv coolant. Don't worry, once I get everything said and done I'll make sure to post pictures! we all love those right?


----------



## derickwm

Updated, finally. I need someone to take over the club. I'm no longer going to be active on OCN. PM me if interested, I would prefer an active member who knows how to use GDocs.


----------



## Dredknot

My New Blood red and White Helix will be arriving tomorrow finally after about a month of impatiently waiting lol. Will be posting Pictures of the new build tomorrow night.


----------



## derickwm

I wasn't aware that you were a local Dredknot


----------



## Dredknot

lol ya down in Olympia. I noticed u were awhile ago. Good old Washington lol


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> Updated, finally. I need someone to take over the club. I'm no longer going to be active on OCN. PM me if interested, I would prefer an active member who knows how to use GDocs.


Sad to see you go. Hope someone will pick up the responsibility of maintaining this thread. This thread has so much win, it would be a shame to let it go to waste. You going to continue folding??

EDIT: also, I dont have the "V series" of reservoirs that you put in the spreadsheet. I have the earlier model. But hopefully I will have a Gen V soon.


----------



## paradoxum

well guys I finally got my replacement bay reservoir from them after about 1-2 months of constant emails. they told me they had increased the thickness of the inner cathode tube to prevent this cracking in the future.

guess what? today I turn my PC on and see that the inner cathode tube has cracked and is leaking again, in the exact same place. I don't even know what to say at this point.


----------



## nicodemus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> well guys I finally got my replacement bay reservoir from them after about 1-2 months of constant emails. they told me they had increased the thickness of the inner cathode tube to prevent this cracking in the future.
> guess what? today I turn my PC on and see that the inner cathode tube has cracked and is leaking again, in the exact same place. I don't even know what to say at this point.


oh man, i'm sorry to hear that. =(

how long was the new bay in use?

i recently got a replacement res for a similar issue (cracked inner tube) and the new revision res seems to be holding up well so far.

can i ask, did you fill the res up all the way?


----------



## Tomiger

Haven't been on here in a while, just noticed this

Here's a picture of mine and a link to my build log which contains more pictures:

Liquid Fusion V Series UV Blue 250mm










Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1044685/build-log-black-and-blue-800d-finished


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> lol ya down in Olympia. I noticed u were awhile ago. Good old Washington lol


Lol I'm in the Columbia Gorge.









~Ceadder


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicodemus*
> 
> oh man, i'm sorry to hear that. =(
> how long was the new bay in use?
> i recently got a replacement res for a similar issue (cracked inner tube) and the new revision res seems to be holding up well so far.
> can i ask, did you fill the res up all the way?


I've been running with the replacement since the beginning of March, it was completely fine up until today. I left an amount of air space to account for the pressure when the pump is running, should I have been filling it it all the way to the top?

Edit: I just recieved a response from their RMA address and they said that the one they sent me wasn't an improved version and are willing to send me another, just hoping it doesn't take another 2 months of emails to finally recieve it this time.


----------



## nicodemus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> I've been running with the replacement since the beginning of March, it was completely fine up until today. I left an amount of air space to account for the pressure when the pump is running, should I have been filling it it all the way to the top?


no, i think you did the right thing, for the right reason (as far as i've read.) what will you do? go back to them, or find another solution?

man, sorry again. i know how much it sucks to have a cracked, leaking res. =/


----------



## paradoxum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicodemus*
> 
> no, i think you did the right thing, for the right reason (as far as i've read.) what will you do? go back to them, or find another solution?
> man, sorry again. i know how much it sucks to have a cracked, leaking res. =/


I just recieved a response from their RMA address and they said that the one they sent me wasn't an improved version and are willing to send me another, just hoping it doesn't take another 2 months of emails to finally recieve it this time. I'm so sick of taking my loop apart because of this.


----------



## nicodemus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paradoxum*
> 
> I just recieved a response from their RMA address and they said that the one they sent me wasn't an improved version and are willing to send me another, just hoping it doesn't take another 2 months of emails to finally recieve it this time. I'm so sick of taking my loop apart because of this.


i feel you!

but still, that's sort of good news! i hear the new revision is much more reliable and i've yet to hear of a problem with them. i've been happy with mine so far, but it's only been a month so far, there abouts.

good luck, man! hope it works out for you!


----------



## asakurahao

I too was in love with this reservoir several months ago. but I stop using it for a while now. I bought 2 liquid fusion reservoirs last year. one from performance and another directly from Alex. they both had leaked into the cathode shell. I don't bother RMA it because i know the RMA one will leak in several weeks of using.


----------



## nicodemus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asakurahao*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I too was in love with this reservoir several months ago. but I stop using it for a while now. I bought 2 liquid fusion reservoirs last year. one from performance and another directly from Alex. they both had leaked into the cathode shell. I don't bother RMA it because i know the RMA one will leak in several weeks of using.


oh, i encourage you to consider RMAing it. they have a new design that is supposed to address the leaking cathode shell issue. i'm happy with my replacement, and you all will be the first to know if it cracks. =)


----------



## Dredknot

Well my Helix finally arrived. Gonna eat dinner then off to rebuild my system. will post new pics of the setup when im finished later tonight. here a preview


----------



## Dredknot

Finally done. Had an issue with pressure and a leak because i forgot to add a oring onto one of my compression fittings but it turned out nicely. Rerouted how my tubing went so my cpu is cooled by the 360 rad and dropped my temps about 6c. Gonna have to order a white cathode to put in the res but for now im happy with it. Let me know what u think!


----------



## Ceadderman

What R you using for light Dred?

~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

two crappy think there 16' red led light bars. bought them from a local computer store awhile back because thats all they had. Looks decent enough though. My camera takes bad pictures with the amount of red light it puts out lol makes it look washed out. Its actually a darker red then it appears.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> two crappy think there 16' red led light bars. bought them from a local computer store awhile back because thats all they had. Looks decent enough though. My camera takes bad pictures with the amount of red light it puts out lol makes it look washed out. Its actually a darker red then it appears.


Haha wish we had a local computer store. Instead I'm forced to deal with a company that shall remain nameless. Let's just say I'm not too enthused with them right now. Order never arrived and essentially they want me to shut up and stop my whining. I've opened complaints with PayPal and the BBB. If that doesn't get it resolved, I'll flush any chance of doing business with them and make sure to open a thread here. I don't like fighting dirty, but I don't like being told I gotta eat ~$18 either. Wish I were made of money, but I am not.









I need some Cats for my 932. It's pretty dark since I pulled the 200mm LED fans.









~Ceadder


----------



## pdubb2k

Glad to see I wasn't the only one with problems. I had one of the dual bay reservoirs and noticed a little puddle starting to form under the front of my case (that my cat was nice enough to be nosy and investigate for me). My leak was a medium sized one out the cathode tube. I rma'd it recently, and I am pretty glad to know its a known issue instead of my negligence. How long has it taken for various peoples rmas to come back? I just purchased a few new components for the loop and I am dying to test it out.


----------



## nicodemus

a couple of weeks for me.


----------



## Dredknot

Got a youtube video of my setup finally. Let me know what u think.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo08dxgcDn8


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks awesome dude. Though that Res could use some Red. An I made the suggestion to go back to the stock Red LED fan from the HAF. 110cfm for that fan. Not sure but, I think that it may have better speed than the one you're currently running as well as giving you a bit more light. Those Cats are awesome but they really flood the case without something to inject cleaner light to the interior. Sorry I really don't know how to describe this any other way.









That Res though.







Wow that looks really sharp with the blood red and white kit. Marvelous job.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

I think the fan i have is a little better then the stock CM fan, (Edit its 166.2 CFM) but i agree with the light just what i had on hand for now. and i ordered the res not thinking about the slandered UV bulb in it lol. Gonna order a white cathode on Monday i think.


----------



## crazyg0od33

I actually have a nice suggestion...I had an XSPC single bay reservoir, and they come with a tiny 5mm led to light up the water. I tried putting it into the cathode gole in the frozenq res and it fit perfectly. So i ordered an XSPC dual led (white) and am going to put one in each end of the res. MUCH brighter:
HERE


----------



## Dredknot

sweet thx for the heads up. pretty cheap to.


----------



## CjGemini

Looks good Dredknot!!!


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Looks good Dredknot!!!


Thx! Hey what kind of cathode do you use for your helix or do u just use a LED?


----------



## Ceadderman

Soooooooooo close yet so far. Leak testing and it looks like I didn't get the caps tight enough when I put the Reservoir back together. Gotta get some silicon tape and address the last minute leak. Good thing I stayed at this til 0400am. My loop is done and ready to go save for a minor fitting change and the Reservoir. Almost had it perfect my first time out.









But as they say, "Almost only counts in Horseshoes and Hand Grenades"









~Ceadder


----------



## GrayFawkes

I leaked tested mine for hours, and now as I was installing windows the caps seem to be leaking, both the top and bottom caps are leaking. I never even dissasembled the res once since I got it last week.


----------



## manu97416

Hey guys i got my th10 build done about two days ago ..... and got a tri spiral 400 mm res
im going to post pictures once i get a new cathode bulb because the one that came with it broke









anyways i cant wait to show u guys...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrayFawkes*
> 
> I leaked tested mine for hours, and now as I was installing windows the caps seem to be leaking, both the top and bottom caps are leaking. I never even dissasembled the res once since I got it last week.


Well I'll let ya know how this works after I open it back up and wrap some silicon tape on the threads. Should fix the issue.









Here be mine after I drained it for repair...










...waiting for the tape to come back up the hill and while that takes its time I'll be fixing the 90 degree restriction at the outlet of my pump.









~Ceadder


----------



## j henderson

seems as if the dual bay res model leaks a lot less than the other one


----------



## Ceadderman

Filled and working well. I found out that the issue wasn't the cap leaking, but more that the Helices had spun and essentially closed the top two inlets to some degree. With the pump flowing at 100% it backed up enough where the pressure pushed water out the only place it could go due to the resulting cavitation. So make sure those are aligned when you reinstall the Helice device in the Res after having it apart. Fixing that fixed everything and have had no leaks from anyplace in the loop. If I hadn't taken it apart to clean it, I would have built my first loop and had complete success. Other than a dead fan. lol











As it is I fixed the 90 to be a 45 while I had the loop apart.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Filled and working well. I found out that the issue wasn't the cap leaking, but more that the Helices had spun and essentially closed the top two inlets to some degree. With the pump flowing at 100% it backed up enough where the pressure pushed water out the only place it could go due to the resulting cavitation. So make sure those are aligned when you reinstall the Helice device in the Res after having it apart. Fixing that fixed everything and have had no leaks from anyplace in the loop. If I hadn't taken it apart to clean it, I would have built my first loop and had complete success. Other than a dead fan. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it is I fixed the 90 to be a 45 while I had the loop apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Looks awesome! Love the white red and black. Lets see it in the dark


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Filled and working well. I found out that the issue wasn't the cap leaking, but more that the Helices had spun and essentially closed the top two inlets to some degree. With the pump flowing at 100% it backed up enough where the pressure pushed water out the only place it could go due to the resulting cavitation. So make sure those are aligned when you reinstall the Helice device in the Res after having it apart. Fixing that fixed everything and have had no leaks from anyplace in the loop. If I hadn't taken it apart to clean it, I would have built my first loop and had complete success. Other than a dead fan. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As it is I fixed the 90 to be a 45 while I had the loop apart.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome! Love the white red and black. Lets see it in the dark
Click to expand...

Soon as I get some more lighting. Ditching the 25mm Yates kinda threw things outta whack where lighting is concerned. This is what I got goin on now...





As you can see, looking at the system is kinda anti climactic. I stuck a flashlight inside so I could get those dark pics.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Haha nice. Ya i need to find some better lighting for mine just havnt really looked around yet


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Haha nice. Ya i need to find some better lighting for mine just havnt really looked around yet


I decided to forgo Cats and go with a 2meter NZXT LED string. I figured out that I could run it behind the Mother board tray up to the edge to the top, wrap it around the back and run it up the other side. $15 worth of light that should replace the 120 LED Yates I just removed. Then I'll try to find a 8-10" Red CCL to mod into the Res. Also gonna get a couple Red LEDs' to add to the Classified Red CPU block.









~Ceadder


----------



## btwalter

I love my FQ res, however, seeing as it's been over 2 months since I contacted them that my top port was mis-threaded and they said they'd send a replacement... still waiting. I have to use 2 thick O-Rings so it doesn't leak, and even then it still leaks a tad when I fill it up.







starting to think I should just ditch it and get a EK res.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *btwalter*
> 
> I love my FQ res, however, seeing as it's been over 2 months since I contacted them that my top port was mis-threaded and they said they'd send a replacement... still waiting. I have to use 2 thick O-Rings so it doesn't leak, and even then it still leaks a tad when I fill it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> starting to think I should just ditch it and get a EK res.


I can't say what you should do, but having seen that EK Multioption is prone to microfracturing due to the internal threading I wouldn't recommend them. Have you tried PTFE tape to seal the top? I use it even with perfect threading because tolerances aren't always perfect regardless of fitting or opening. I've done quite a bit of plumbing and for $1.50 for the bigger rolls it's well worth it to invest in a couple. You might give that a shot and just call over to Frozen Q to see what the hold up is. Sometimes it takes a voice on the other end to get the job done. Just be nice about it. I understand the frustration I do. Just went through a Customer Relations issue with a company that could have turned out bad. Thankfully I kept my cool the whole time and we resolved the issue to mutual satisfaction. I think if you handle it with diplomatic tact verbally you'll get a better result.









~Ceadder


----------



## THERIDDLER

Im completely new to watercooling and want to include one of these frozen q res in my new case. Im wondering what size fittings and tubing i need. Thank you


----------



## crazyg0od33

Any normal g1/4 thread fitting. And fittings. Either compression or normal barbs. For compression he the same size as the tube you get.


----------



## THERIDDLER

so the 1/4x38" fitting? Which is 1/4 or 3/8 tubing?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> so the 1/4x38" fitting? Which is 1/4 or 3/8 tubing?


lol

G1/4 is the thread type most newer parts are this thread type. Manufacturers simplified things by sticking with this as the accepted thread for all fittings to connect to.

3/8 is ID of the tubing. There are three common ID(Internal Diameter) tubing. 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". 1/2" tubing normally comes in two distinct OD(Outside Diameter) that being 5/8" and 3/4". 3/4" is more common and 1/2x3/4" tubing can be found almost anywhere. But it's more for look than performance.









Hopefully this cleared up your question a little bit.









~Ceadder


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> lol
> G1/4 is the thread type most newer parts are this thread type. Manufacturers simplified things by sticking with this as the accepted thread for all fittings to connect to.
> 3/8 is ID of the tubing. There are three common ID(Internal Diameter) tubing. 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". 1/2" tubing normally comes in two distinct OD(Outside Diameter) that being 5/8" and 3/4". 3/4" is more common and 1/2x3/4" tubing can be found almost anywhere. But it's more for look than performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully this cleared up your question a little bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


haha, thank you very much for the info cept im still confused on what size the G1/4 is.. Im looking at frozencpu and i dont see any G1/4 fittings. Sorry im a bit slow with this


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> lol
> G1/4 is the thread type most newer parts are this thread type. Manufacturers simplified things by sticking with this as the accepted thread for all fittings to connect to.
> 3/8 is ID of the tubing. There are three common ID(Internal Diameter) tubing. 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". 1/2" tubing normally comes in two distinct OD(Outside Diameter) that being 5/8" and 3/4". 3/4" is more common and 1/2x3/4" tubing can be found almost anywhere. But it's more for look than performance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully this cleared up your question a little bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha, thank you very much for the info cept im still confused on what size the G1/4 is.. Im looking at frozencpu and i dont see any G1/4 fittings. Sorry im a bit slow with this
Click to expand...

Unless otherwise stated they're all G1/4 thread. That's the portion that goes into the block/Radiator/Reservoir etc.
Tubing side/ G1/4 thread side









The threaded portion will thread into whatever you get to put it into. As previously stated most everything comes in G1/4 thread. It's almost impossible to screw up the order. EK has a G3/8 thread DDC top and a BitsPower has some G3/8 fittings but most places like PPCs' has those segregated from G1/4 fittings. The most important thing you need to know when building a loop is to make certain you're getting the correct size of Tubing to fit the OD of the barb you're routing through. Compression fittings do have barbs, the ring just locks the tubing into place by compressing it against the inner barb. Hence why they're called compression fittings. If you wish to go with barbs you can get clamps, some barbs (Koolance) will come with Clamps or you can get slightly smaller tubing to make a leak free connection. With my barbs they've got a couple inner locking barbs that keep my tubing snug so I'm not worried about it. Not that it's gonna matter cause my barbs are coming off as soon as I get the remaining hardware to connect my SLI bridge.









If you wish to learn more just check out the Water Cooling Forum and read everything you can. I learned a crapload in there. An I'm STILL learning.









~Ceadder


----------



## THERIDDLER

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Unless otherwise stated they're all G1/4 thread. That's the portion that goes into the block/Radiator/Reservoir etc.
> Tubing side/ G1/4 thread side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The threaded portion will thread into whatever you get to put it into. As previously stated most everything comes in G1/4 thread. It's almost impossible to screw up the order. EK has a G3/8 thread DDC top and a BitsPower has some G3/8 fittings but most places like PPCs' has those segregated from G1/4 fittings. The most important thing you need to know when building a loop is to make certain you're getting the correct size of Tubing to fit the OD of the barb you're routing through. Compression fittings do have barbs, the ring just locks the tubing into place by compressing it against the inner barb. Hence why they're called compression fittings. If you wish to go with barbs you can get clamps, some barbs (Koolance) will come with Clamps or you can get slightly smaller tubing to make a leak free connection. With my barbs they've got a couple inner locking barbs that keep my tubing snug so I'm not worried about it. Not that it's gonna matter cause my barbs are coming off as soon as I get the remaining hardware to connect my SLI bridge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you wish to learn more just check out the Water Cooling Forum and read everything you can. I learned a crapload in there. An I'm STILL learning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you very much. +Rep for helping me out. Thanks again


----------



## CjGemini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Looks good Dredknot!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx! Hey what kind of cathode do you use for your helix or do u just use a LED?
Click to expand...

I don't have a cathode installed the Led gives more then enough light


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CjGemini*
> 
> Looks good Dredknot!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thx! Hey what kind of cathode do you use for your helix or do u just use a LED?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't have a cathode installed the Led gives more then enough light
Click to expand...

But your LEDs' are in your Reservoir mount.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## CjGemini

^^ This is true


----------



## klil

Hello everyone.
I will be buys parts for a loop next week, and I really like this res. I'll get the 250mm.

But I wasn't able to find info about the ports on the newest models (not on their website at least). Like, whats on one side and what's on the other side?
I'm really confused. Seems like there are sides with one port, sides with two ports, sides with two lateral ports ?!?!? (pics from this thread) What do they come stock with on each of the sides?!?

*EDIT:* I've just seen their website has the "side ports: yes or no" option. Does this mean I get side ports on one side and just one port on the other side?
Can I get it with side ports on both sides?
I suppose if I buy the res from a retailer (FrozenCPU or Performance-PCs), it will not come with side ports?

Thank you.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klil*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> I will be buys parts for a loop next week, and I really like this res. I'll get the 250mm.
> 
> But I wasn't able to find info about the ports on the newest models (not on their website at least). Like, whats on one side and what's on the other side?
> I'm really confused. Seems like there are sides with one port, sides with two ports, sides with two lateral ports ?!?!? (pics from this thread) What do they come stock with on each of the sides?!?
> 
> *EDIT:* I've just seen their website has the "side ports: yes or no" option. Does this mean I get side ports on one side and just one port on the other side?
> Can I get it with side ports on both sides?
> I suppose if I buy the res from a retailer (FrozenCPU or Performance-PCs), it will not come with side ports?
> 
> Thank you.


Stock comes with 1 an 2 ports. One at one end and 2 at the other. Typically on the ends and not the side. Though that can be done or depending on where you get it is already done.









My next one is gonna be Bay Res primarily for fillport since my system sets on a table around my desk, I'll be using as visual aid to cue me into topping off the system. Kinda shocked that the level hasn't gone down much if at all with the FP tube currently wide open.









~Ceadder


----------



## klil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Stock comes with 1 an 2 ports. One at one end and 2 at the other. Typically on the ends and not the side.


Thanks for clearing it up.
I found this in Performance-PCs:
Quote:


> (normal) The Liquid Fusion reservoir has as single inlet and outlet located on the bottom of the reservoir. The top has a fill-cap to make filling the system simple.
> (dual port) The Liquid Fusion reservoir has as single inlet and dual side ported outlets located on the bottom of the reservoir. The top has a fill-cap to make filling the system simple.


So the stock comes with two on top and one on bottom,
while the dual port comes with two on top and two on bottom's side???

UV red with stock ports is $90 while with side ports is $140. 50 bucks for a friggin pair of side ports? Not cool...


----------



## crazyg0od33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klil*
> 
> Thanks for clearing it up.
> I found this in Performance-PCs:
> So the stock comes with two on top and one on bottom,
> while the dual port comes with two on top and two on bottom's side???


no.
The dual ports is one on the top and 2 on the sides of the bottom.
There are only 3 ports on al of the models, but on the side with 2 ports, its either on the bottom (stock) or on the sides (side ports)


----------



## crazyg0od33

Hey guys, I see that the diameter of the res. caps is 60mm. Would I be able to get another brands res. holder that holds 60mm tubes and put them on the caps, or would that be a bad idea?
Reason being I have a large grommet in the way of my mounting position, but the tube part of my 160mL res. is too short to allow the stock mounts to fit around the grommet.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> Hey guys, I see that the diameter of the res. caps is 60mm. Would I be able to get another brands res. holder that holds 60mm tubes and put them on the caps, or would that be a bad idea?
> Reason being I have a large grommet in the way of my mounting position, but the tube part of my 160mL res. is too short to allow the stock mounts to fit around the grommet.


Don't see why you couldn't do it so long as the standoff fits without modification. Sure give it a whirl. At worst you'd have to get another pair of mounts that will fit properly.









~Ceadder


----------



## TheJesus

Now I get to post my 250MM Liquid Fusion V Series Orange/Black Helix:


----------



## derickwm

That's purty. Been thinking about getting the same one, but 400mL for my Halloween build.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *derickwm*
> 
> That's purty. Been thinking about getting the same one, but 400mL for my Halloween build.


Thought you'd appreciate it







A 400mL would be ridiculous, lol. I could barely make this one work, I should've gone with the smaller one, but oh well.


----------



## derickwm

Lulz yeah. Now I just need to order a case to put it all in.


----------



## Ceadderman

That is rather sick looking TJ. I love it! If I were to stick with my Gigantes themed build, that would have been an epic piece to go with the Gigabyte board. Went a completely different direction though. RoG FTW!









Finished cleaning up the Fan cables and now I'm down to the jumper between CPU to Fan Controller. I did the bulk of the sleeving in the dark by candlelight while power was out here. I figured if I couldn't be ON my computer, I could be IN it getting things sorted out.



























Getting my NZXT string sometime soon. So things will be much brighter soon. Also can't get into specifics yet but I hope to have some good news coming out of Camp Frozen Q. It's nothing huge but it would be nice if it works out so I can't drop any real detail. Don't need to jinx it.









~Ceadder


----------



## tlxxxsracer

The girlfriend loves Resident Evil and went crazy when she saw my computer with the reservoir







For a while she had wanted to take pictures (as she's a model) with it as the T-virus. So here is a photo I took of her in our studio with it


















Please take a moment to go like her FB page too
Spike Zombie
www.facebook.com/SpikeZombieOfficial


----------



## Valgaur

Hey guys I'm still a bit new to OC.net and I am very interested in there REs's especially the helix ones or just the reator core with the UV nodes in each of them. I will more than likely be using the Cosmos S case from cooler master to make this bad boy. I plan on over clocking and watercooling to compensate for it with either a single 360 read or a 360 with a 240 or 120 little helper. I am going to make my liquid green uv reactive to give it that alien look. Also with my idea I want the green uv liquid but the Res will be the helix with the UV red inside...im curious though will it show the helix inside or will it be to bright? also I want the front mounted one as well to show off the thing and my tubing is either going to be clear with that uv green liquid or should I just use the UV green tubing? and then have the res light up like a reactor with the alien green coolant??

I am curious as to how you guys put this res in your case been trying to find out how online and havent found much. Would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!!


----------



## Dredknot

It might show faintly but i doubt it. Either way it will take away from the look of the helix.


----------



## Valgaur

so just go with the reactor core then?


----------



## Dredknot

ya i think it would look much better.


----------



## Valgaur

I'll go with the 250mm as well reactor core make it all the way full and just let it glow lol thanks for the thoughts!


----------



## crazyg0od33

hey guys. I know this may be a weird question (or maybe not...) but do any of you know of a way to mount a liquid fusion to a pump directly, similar to THIS:



thanks


----------



## Ceadderman

not exactly the same ...



but this is how I connected mine to my EK Dual DDC v2 block.

Trust me you're not gonna see it enough to make a difference.


















~Ceadder


----------



## netdevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> hey guys. I know this may be a weird question (or maybe not...) but do any of you know of a way to mount a liquid fusion to a pump directly, similar to THIS:
> 
> thanks


Hey mate,

Use this

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=28703

It connects 2 components such as res to pump directly without tubing.

Its like a disconnect without a shutoff valve so you can easily dismantle both components as well.


----------



## crazyg0od33

thanks guys, +REP to both


----------



## |-Goku-|

Has anyone had any problems with their Dual bay FrozenQ reservoirs? I'm contemplating switching from the EK Spin res to one of the FrozenQ reservoirs as I need something that lights up better then the EK does. Thanks!


----------



## Valgaur

I've been thinking the same thing because it's either that or else I'm going to switch it for another bay res.....but I'm also wondering about the Dual bay res's with the pumps in them and how well that setup works to help save some space in my case for airflow.


----------



## |-Goku-|

How do we know what revision we are getting when ordering from places like FCPU, Perf. PC, and Xoxide? What about when we order B-Stock?

I want to make sure I get the new revision with the corrected cathode tube


----------



## DonNunyez

I'm buying the 250mm one







but I have some questions that hopefully can be solved by the owners








1. Can a side port be used as inlet? I have read they are for outlet purpose and my idea was to connect the GPU block to the reservoir using the side port instead of the bottom inlet (for that, I'd have to use a 90º)
2. This will be my first cylinder reservoir (used a fillport before). I'm terrible at drilling







. Is there any other way to keep the reservoir stuck to the case? Will a double sided tape work?
3. Are any plugs included?

Thank you


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonNunyez*
> 
> I'm buying the 250mm one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I have some questions that hopefully can be solved by the owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Can a side port be used as inlet? I have read they are for outlet purpose and my idea was to connect the GPU block to the reservoir using the side port instead of the bottom inlet (for that, I'd have to use a 90º)
> 2. This will be my first cylinder reservoir (used a fillport before). I'm terrible at drilling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Is there any other way to keep the reservoir stuck to the case? Will a double sided tape work?
> 3. Are any plugs included?
> Thank you


1. A side port can be used as an inlet, just as you could one of the bottom ports. From all the configurations I've set up in the past I haven't really found one that did not work or one that worked better than another.
2. They come with a set of acrylic mounts that bolt onto the case with a machine screw for each. Two small holes is all you would need to drill. Some cases will even have holes in the right spot for you to use. I would not suggest double sided tape and this is quickly just going to let the reservoir fall off.
3. You get one plug for the fill port up top, and we include an additional fill plug for each extra port you add. Basically, we don't include plug for two ports.

FrozenQ


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *|-Goku-|*
> 
> How do we know what revision we are getting when ordering from places like FCPU, Perf. PC, and Xoxide? What about when we order B-Stock?
> I want to make sure I get the new revision with the corrected cathode tube


All of these retailers as far as I know were completely out of stock and just received new shipments. The new shipments are all the new revision. If for some reason you would end up receiving an old one, just PM me and I'll gladly switch it out.


----------



## Valgaur

Quick question for you Frozen-Q. I am getting the Cosmos 2 case (smexy) and am wondering where I'll be able to put a 250mm in that bad boy i'm greening out this thing in UV so the green uv helix res is what im going for.

Thanks!

Ohh also what inverter do I need for the cathod??


----------



## superericla

While double sided tape may not hold up the reservoir very well, I think some heavy duty velcro would do the job. I had a 3.5" HDD held up by only a small strip of velcro in my case for 2 months with no issues.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quick question for you Frozen-Q. I am getting the Cosmos 2 case (smexy) and am wondering where I'll be able to put a 250mm in that bad boy i'm greening out this thing in UV so the green uv helix res is what im going for.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Ohh also what inverter do I need for the cathod??


Standard blue box or clear sound activated box will do just fine. Of course if you have multiple CCLs' already it may be worth picking up a Lamptron or GVans inverter box to save space. Nothin like having a bunch of out of place lookin inverter boxes tacked up everywhere.









~Ceadder


----------



## Boweezie

Just ordered my 250ml UV green FrozenQ Res WOOO








Now all I must do is wait in front of my door


----------



## Valgaur

if you could I would love to see pictures of it running not many out there in cases with lights off. lol I want one badly. Tell me what you think of them.

Thanks!


----------



## SinX7

The side mount can be mounted on most case I assume?


----------



## superericla

I was planning on buying a fusion reservoir and was wondering what colors I should get. I was thinking either fluorescent blue for both helixes, or one fluorescent blue and one white. Any thoughts?


----------



## Valgaur

depends on what other colors are running in your case...like your WC setup case color and wires even.

For example I'm going to get the UV green since I'm UV greening my tubing and pumping it all over the case making it all bright green inside so matchin the res with the tubes. Just take into account all of your colors and ask yourself what you think will make the best combo.

Also saw your build and just askin quick what cold cathods did you use?? I need really bright ones for my first build to make my UV green tubing and green UV kink coils light up all night long. (or should I go UV red kink coils?)((still debating personally lol))


----------



## superericla

I'm running UV blue coolant in a white case with black cable sleeving. It's a tough decision.








Check out my build log if you want to see the exact setup


----------



## Valgaur

check my edit lol


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> depends on what other colors are running in your case...like your WC setup case color and wires even.
> For example I'm going to get the UV green since I'm UV greening my tubing and pumping it all over the case making it all bright green inside so matchin the res with the tubes. Just take into account all of your colors and ask yourself what you think will make the best combo.


What he said. I had a green 250mm helix to go along with my green 1/2 tubing and 2 weeks later i decided to order red tubing and my gpu blocks so my green helix looked out of place so i ordered a blood red and white one.. Its all preference to what you would think would look best. luckily the helix by its self are pretty cheap so if u decide to change your mind like me its not bad.

From this


To This



Youtube video of my setup http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo08dxgcDn8


----------



## superericla

I believe they were these lights. I have 4 of them currently.


----------



## Valgaur

dude nice pics (really wants his UV green helix now lol)


----------



## Dredknot

edit


----------



## Valgaur

Thanks for that CC link man...ohhh even sleeved as well nice


----------



## Psyco Flipside

I've just ordered a white-helix 250mm Liquid Fusion







. It's gonna match perfectly in my white Switch 810.


----------



## Dredknot

Nice! make sure u find a white cathode or led to go with it. cuz the uv it comes with will make it purple.


----------



## superericla

I just ordered a FrozenQ Fluorescent Blue 250mm liquid fusion reservoir!


----------



## Valgaur

GRRRR I want mine!!!!....ugh


----------



## superericla

I just wish mine could get here sooner...


----------



## superericla

Has anyone tried one of the helix reservoirs with Mayhem's pastel coolant? I'm wondering how that would even look.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Has anyone tried one of the helix reservoirs with Mayhem's pastel coolant? I'm wondering how that would even look.


I doubt with the Pastel coolant, you would be able to see the helix. Since it is a solid color and isnt transparent IIRC. But maybe you would get a cool glow or some kind of helix shadow effect, which would be BA. I would love to see what they do look like though, I have been thinking of trying some Mayhem dyes for a while now. But now that I have 2 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, and 3-soon to be 4 radiators, I bet I would get some settling.

I would really like to see one of these, with a UV reactive Mayhem Aura coolant. I dont think ones exists yet, but I can dream right.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> I doubt with the Pastel coolant, you would be able to see the helix. Since it is a solid color and isnt transparent IIRC. But maybe you would get a cool glow or some kind of helix shadow effect, which would be BA. I would love to see what they do look like though, I have been thinking of trying some Mayhem dyes for a while now. But now that I have 2 GPU blocks, 1 CPU block, and 3-soon to be 4 radiators, I bet I would get some settling.
> I would really like to see one of these, with a UV reactive Mayhem Aura coolant. I dont think ones exists yet, but I can dream right.


Well, I ordered the helix res so I can show everyone how well it works with Mayhem's pastel UV white that's been dyed blue as soon as it shows up. I was thinking of only half-filling the reservoir and having a waterfall-like effect as the loop is running. It would possibly partially show the helix while lighting up the UV reactive fluid.


----------



## Ceadderman

Since they don't make 10"(9" actually) CCL the one you would need is an 8" CCL to replace 250mm CCL.









Not sure if anyone was aware of that but rather than paying for something that won't fit and not being able to use it, thought I would speak up and let everyone in on this.









~Ceadder


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Nice! make sure u find a white cathode or led to go with it. cuz the uv it comes with will make it purple.


Yep







. Gotta buy a white cathode. Btw, I also have the NZXT sleeved white leds, so it might be enough. Maybe, I should leave the UV cathode in order to give that "special" look when I'm tired of white








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I just wish mine could get here sooner...










I want it now too!!! Unfortunately I think it's not going to be at my home until next month







. But it's worth the wait! It just looks awesome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Since they don't make 10"(9" actually) CCL the one you would need is an 8" CCL to replace 250mm CCL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if anyone was aware of that but rather than paying for something that won't fit and not being able to use it, thought I would speak up and let everyone in on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you so much for your advice







. I was not aware.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyco Flipside*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Nice! make sure u find a white cathode or led to go with it. cuz the uv it comes with will make it purple.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gotta buy a white cathode. Btw, I also have the NZXT sleeved white leds, so it might be enough. Maybe, I should leave the UV cathode in order to give that "special" look when I'm tired of white
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I just wish mine could get here sooner...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want it now too!!! Unfortunately I think it's not going to be at my home until next month
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But it's worth the wait! It just looks awesome!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Since they don't make 10"(9" actually) CCL the one you would need is an 8" CCL to replace 250mm CCL.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if anyone was aware of that but rather than paying for something that won't fit and not being able to use it, thought I would speak up and let everyone in on this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you so much for your advice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was not aware.
Click to expand...

No problem. I've gotta get one myself for my 250 and have done the homework on it. Soon as I can I'll be gettin one. I'm in talks with Frozen Q for a Red one but they have to order one. So I think I'm probably gonna go PPCs' and just get a single bulb in my next order and mod it myself. I found out the length discrepancy when I got my 15" Red CCL. Pulled it out of the pack and immediately noticed something wasn't right. Pulled out the tape and sure nuff one inch short. Measuring from lip of the cap to lip of the opposite cap there should be plenty of room for the CCL for at both ends.









~Ceadder


----------



## Boweezie

Hey guys, it's been a long night with problem after problem. First I try to open my EK HF Supreme block to check for corrosion and I find out that it is shut TIGHT! I mean TIGHT. It was so tight that I basically ruined all the threads on the four screws trying to open it. So now I am going to have to drill them out and order some new screws







Then of course, my Primoflex tubing has become all cloudy only after 3 weeks of use with plain DI water. Sigh. But then I thought, YAY, my FrozenQ reservoir is here! After reading everything and getting excited to see how it looks, it does not even light up. Now, am I doing something wrong? Is there a special connector I need to connect the cathode light into? Man, I'm so tired but really want to see this thing in action! I'm scared I have a dud and will need to return it for another one, which means more waiting and money lost into shipping.


----------



## Dredknot

Sry about the corrosion and Tubing. Im having the same exact issues myself. As to the Res you have to have an inverter. There like 10$

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10451/ele-648/Logisys_Cold_Cathode_Replacement_Inverter.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10453/cab-192/Logisys_Inverter_Harness_Cable_w_PCI_Slot_Switch.html


----------



## Batanga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Well, I ordered the helix res so I can show everyone how well it works with Mayhem's pastel UV white that's been dyed blue as soon as it shows up. I was thinking of only half-filling the reservoir and having a waterfall-like effect as the loop is running. It would possibly partially show the helix while lighting up the UV reactive fluid.


so glad to hear this, I recieved my 2x green frozenq about a week ago and was wanting to use green pastel and wondering how it would work out.

let me know please!


----------



## Boweezie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Sry about the corrosion and Tubing. Im having the same exact issues myself. As to the Res you have to have an inverter. There like 10$
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10451/ele-648/Logisys_Cold_Cathode_Replacement_Inverter.html
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10453/cab-192/Logisys_Inverter_Harness_Cable_w_PCI_Slot_Switch.html


Oh man what luck! I just bought a white LED light with that same inverter! Hooked it up and it WORKS







So Awesome looking!!! Thanks so much for your help!!


----------



## Dredknot

Sweet! Glad to help







show us some pics!


----------



## Dredknot

Just finally ordered my 8" white cathode for my blood red and white helix Res. Hopefully it works lol. Gonna do a full tear down and cleaning when it shows up. Will take pictures to show the corrosion I think is occurring sadly.


----------



## Valgaur

think I might have figured it out guys...corosion from two different metals like if you have a copper water block then all of them have to be copper (I think from a video I'm remembering) try to keep them all the same metal if you can.

Also what about the frozencpu.com's distiller ultra water (err whatever it's named)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> think I might have figured it out guys...corosion from two different metals like if you have a copper water block then all of them have to be copper (I think from a video I'm remembering) try to keep them all the same metal if you can.
> 
> Also what about the frozencpu.com's distiller ultra water (err whatever it's named)


They don't all have to be the same metal, I think you have something in your loop that is causing the reaction necessary to cause corrosion. If you're running Barbs I would check to see if any of them are aluminum. You do not want an aluminum barb anywhere in in the system. I'm reasonably sure that you can run nickel with copper with no issues. And nickel with Brass(typical Radiator construction) also w/o issue. Since copper is the base metal I'm reasonably sure that there shouldn't be an issue there either. Not unless the base metal is worn should copper react negatively to the presence of nickel. So there has to be something in the loop that is causing it. Could even be a manufacturer cutting corners and using cheap solder in the manufacturing process of the Radiator. But I would check the loop for cheap barbs first.









~Ceadder


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They don't all have to be the same metal, I think you have something in your loop that is causing the reaction necessary to cause corrosion. If you're running Barbs I would check to see if any of them are aluminum. You do not want an aluminum barb anywhere in in the system. I'm reasonably sure that you can run nickel with copper with no issues. And nickel with Brass(typical Radiator construction) also w/o issue. Since copper is the base metal I'm reasonably sure that there shouldn't be an issue there either. Not unless the base metal is worn should copper react negatively to the presence of nickel. So there has to be something in the loop that is causing it. Could even be a manufacturer cutting corners and using cheap solder in the manufacturing process of the Radiator. But I would check the loop for cheap barbs first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


you win lol (like I said might have it figured out lmao)


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> They don't all have to be the same metal, I think you have something in your loop that is causing the reaction necessary to cause corrosion. If you're running Barbs I would check to see if any of them are aluminum. You do not want an aluminum barb anywhere in in the system. I'm reasonably sure that you can run nickel with copper with no issues. And nickel with Brass(typical Radiator construction) also w/o issue. Since copper is the base metal I'm reasonably sure that there shouldn't be an issue there either. Not unless the base metal is worn should copper react negatively to the presence of nickel. So there has to be something in the loop that is causing it. Could even be a manufacturer cutting corners and using cheap solder in the manufacturing process of the Radiator. But I would check the loop for cheap barbs first.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


^^^ This ^^^
Plus, Nickel + silver coil is a no go. Use CuSO4 or PHN
http://www.overclock.net/t/1205823/silver-kill-coil-not-working/200
http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf
http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/EKWB_Internal_Report.pdf


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyco Flipside*
> 
> ^^^ This ^^^
> Plus, Nickel + silver coil is a no go. Use CuSO4 or PHN
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1205823/silver-kill-coil-not-working/200
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/Corrosion_Report_Final.pdf
> http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/EK-IMAGES/EKWB_Internal_Report.pdf


sweet then I can use all the blocks I want w00t!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't use anything but straight distilled. I've got a silver coil here in the drawer but decided against adding it to the loop due to the plasticizer issue. Running 24/7 too. Since air contributes to corrosion my loop isn't stopped long enough for there to be an issue there. Of course that's not why my system is 24/7 but I'm sure it helps minimize the possibility of corrosion. I Fold 24/7 so my system is always busy.









I'm not suggesting in any way shape or form that Killcoil leads to leeching plasticizer. Just didn't want to take that chance not that my solid color tubing would show it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't use anything but straight distilled. I've got a silver coil here in the drawer but decided against adding it to the loop due to the plasticizer issue. Running 24/7 too. Since air contributes to corrosion my loop isn't stopped long enough for there to be an issue there. Of course that's not why my system is 24/7 but I'm sure it helps minimize the possibility of corrosion. I Fold 24/7 so my system is always busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not suggesting in any way shape or form that Killcoil leads to leeching plasticizer. Just didn't want to take that chance not that my solid color tubing would show it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


so do you even have any microbial stuff in their like the additives?? and the distilled just from like Walmart or something like that??


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I don't use anything but straight distilled. I've got a silver coil here in the drawer but decided against adding it to the loop due to the plasticizer issue. Running 24/7 too. Since air contributes to corrosion my loop isn't stopped long enough for there to be an issue there. Of course that's not why my system is 24/7 but I'm sure it helps minimize the possibility of corrosion. I Fold 24/7 so my system is always busy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not suggesting in any way shape or form that Killcoil leads to leeching plasticizer. Just didn't want to take that chance not that my solid color tubing would show it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so do you even have any microbial stuff in their like the additives?? and the distilled just from like Walmart or something like that??
Click to expand...

Nope. Zero additives. Only Walmart brand Distilled.









I am using PrimoChill White LRT which has an additive embedded in the tubing to prevent algae. Also my system is not subject to much if any natural light so algae growth is not really a concern.









~Ceadder


----------



## Valgaur

Yeah I'm looking at Danger Dens UV green tubing. But I'm wondering if i should get the additive......I'm kinda paranoid like that though....


----------



## Boweezie

Alrighty guys, got my 250 ml UV green res







Added it with Mayhems Blue Pastel Dye. Interesting results. I like it. I only wish the green in the res would glow a bit more. But overall really cool experiment!


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boweezie*
> 
> Alrighty guys, got my 250 ml UV green res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added it with Mayhems Blue Pastel Dye. Interesting results. I like it. I only wish the green in the res would glow a bit more. But overall really cool experiment!


Looks good! Interesting color mix. Maybe only fill the res half way. Might make it appear brighter.


----------



## Valgaur

hmmm.......might try that...but with white to go with the individually white sleeved PSU cables i got......should I?? since I'm using UV green tubing? plus pastel blue eats light since it's a dark color...wonder how white or something else would do...


----------



## superericla

Interesting results. It should look really good having Mayhem's Pastel UV White dyed blue in a helix res with UV blue helixes.


----------



## Ceadderman

U runnin the UV light Boweezie? That should be a little brighter than that even if you filled it all the way up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

It looks like the UV is running the top of the helix is glowing pretty good it seems. I could be wrong though hard to tell


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> It looks like the UV is running the top of the helix is glowing pretty good it seems. I could be wrong though hard to tell


Looks more white than UV Dred. Not that I'm right an you wrong. Just that's what it looks like. Almost like there is a While Cat/LED backlighting the Res.









Though that could be the white Cat in the front that is throwing my perception of reality off.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Ya I really can't, tell. He just bought it and I thought they only came with uv


----------



## Boweezie

The light inside the res is the UV black light. My light on top is a white led cathode. I was thinking of switching it out for another UV cathode, but since this is pastel, I don't think there will be too much of a difference in terms of glowing.


----------



## Dredknot

Still looks good though. Defiantly unique


----------



## Valgaur

clear coolant or colored. man i hate decisions.


----------



## Ceadderman

Oh for sure it looks good. But yeah nah, I couldn't tell.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Got my white cathode in. Fit perfect! Thanks for the 8" ccl tip ceadder. Looks much better now. will post pictures in a min when my tablet gets finished uploading.


----------



## Dredknot




----------



## Valgaur

that is sooooooo bright dude.


----------



## Boweezie

Very cool! Makes it look as if the res is the "heart" of the case. Good stuff.


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

ya WAY brighter then i anticipated but it looks so awesome lol. Still got to tear it all down and find out about the corrosion but until then it looks sweet lol.


----------



## MaDeuce50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyg0od33*
> 
> no.
> The dual ports is one on the top and 2 on the sides of the bottom.
> There are only 3 ports on al of the models, but on the side with 2 ports, its either on the bottom (stock) or on the sides (side ports)


I'm a little confused about the side port option. From this picture, it looks like it has a total of 5 ports. 2 ports on one end, 2 side ports and 1 on the other end.


Is something like this available or is it custom? I'm only planning to use 3 ports but I need the above option for an inlet on the side, a fill on top and an outlet on the bottom.


----------



## crazyg0od33

that looks custom. I've never seen one like that. If that was available, I would have gotten it myself...

this is what it should be:


why not use one of the ports on the top as a fill, the other as an inlet, and the bottom as an outlet?


----------



## MaDeuce50

yeah I thought about doing that but I was afraid its going to be a tight fit with the top rad and fans.


----------



## MaDeuce50

I did some more searching and found out that those extra ports are custom and Alex can do them for free.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Absolutely! Custom port configs are still free.


From this thread---->http://www.overclock.net/t/1209739/liquid-fusion-v5-side-port-vs-standard-porting


----------



## Valgaur

ohh thats nice of them that would make plumbing way easier.


----------



## MaDeuce50

yeah that is really awesome service and I honestly wouldn't mind paying for something like that. With the custom port options, I don't have to use 45 or 90 degree compression fittings cause they're expensive.


----------



## Ceadderman

in my HAF 932...



















I've got mine mounted directly to my pumps. Comp is inlet. Barb is Fill. With side access it should be easier for you.









*Edit* An yeah I hate the ever lovin p!ss out of that converter box. Blue doesn't belong in this system. Can deal with a bit o green an amber ocassionally(that's on Mainboard no way round it) but soon as I can I'm buyin an aftermarket converter box for $10. This one...







yick!

~Ceadder


----------



## fat_italian_stallion

could always disconnect the led. Hope it's not lamptron. The ten port ones tend to have multiple bad channels.


----------



## superericla

The only thing my build is missing is the FrozenQ reservoir I ordered nearly 2 weeks ago. The wait is killing me.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fat_italian_stallion*
> 
> could always disconnect the led. Hope it's not lamptron. The ten port ones tend to have multiple bad channels.


lol Nope it's a ModSmart stackable 2 channel. You can serial them and add switches as needed.







I need to clean up the rear of my system. I love the LED strand I have but it takes up a whole slot by itself. I'm thinking that I could drop the slot devices that are strictly on/off and can get a couple of these boxes to serial them off the 4pin Mole pwr and use stealthed switches to turn them on and off in a convenient location of my case. As it is right now the CCL switch is secured to the top HDD slider with a zip tie. I don't like that. Gonna clean it up.









~Ceadder


----------



## Crunkles

I'm looking at *this* for my first WC build and wanted to know if anyone knows how its mounted. I have a HAF 932 and wondered how it would look.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crunkles*
> 
> I'm looking at *this* for my first WC build and wanted to know if anyone knows how its mounted. I have a HAF 932 and wondered how it would look.


It's mounted in 2 5.25" bays.


----------



## Crunkles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> It's mounted in 2 5.25" bays.


Thanks


----------



## evil jerry

Hey everyone, i'm a proud owner of the white dual bay res. I joined the list ages ago when it was starting up. My build has changed colors however and does not match. The res has like two month on and I have a d5 pump top. I might be willing to trade for any other helix res so if anyone is interested PM me.

What I was thinking is how could i put a dual bay or a cylinder in my phantom and make it look right. I'm not sure if there is a way. Opinions are welcome. I've been considering maybe an orange helix behind the front closing door. which you would be able to see shine threw the mesh of my phantom door cutout. Currently there is a dual bay XSPC res
.


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> The only thing my build is missing is the FrozenQ reservoir I ordered nearly 2 weeks ago. The wait is killing me.


I ordered mine May 7th and it is still in "processing" status T_T. That's 20 working days!







, but I'm trying not to become impatient because they have been having some stock issues.
Btw, have you received yours?


----------



## netdevil

That is wise psyco. I ordered mine and it came 2 months later but I just waited patiently although I really was impatient lol. I kept in mind that they are not some big corporation but really a business that has its products fully custom made. I prefer them taking their own sweet time making a perfect res than me rushing them for a sloppy job. Anyway, in the end when I received my liquid fusion florescent blue with clear caps, I was really impressed when the lights came on. No leaks or anything like that.( also have my res somewhere in this thread) Totally worth the wait







Hope you get yours soon too mate


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyco Flipside*
> 
> I ordered mine May 7th and it is still in "processing" status T_T. That's 20 working days!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I'm trying not to become impatient because they have been having some stock issues.
> Btw, have you received yours?


Mine just shipped, but isn't here yet. I actually ordered mine May 7th as well, no custom parts or side ports either.


----------



## MaDeuce50

Have you guys had any luck with email communication? I placed my order on June 1st so I'm not in any rush. I selected the side port option but I also read that FrozenQ can do custom side ports. Are they still offering this option because I didn't see an option for it on their website.


----------



## crazyg0od33

The side port option IS the custom side port afaik. I think you have to specify through email BEFORE you order if you want some custom configuration. I'm not 100% though


----------



## superericla

USPS sent my FrozenQ res to California instead of Missouri on accident after I've already waited 4 weeks for the reservoir. I emailed FrozenQ and their customer support is nothing short of fantastic. I got a reply within minutes with detailed information about what happened with my order and an offer for them to help me in any way I see fit. I would order from FrozenQ again just based off their customer support.


----------



## Valgaur

I'm switchin up my rig a bit. Making 2 loops so my one mcp655 doesn't die from 6-7 waterblocks. now trying to see if the wallet has enough for 2 more rads and some more fans...ugh lol 4 rads total in this build now...might take one out since the Ram 16gb and the other 16gb ram block wont be super hot and the mosfet doesn't get crazy hot either. so much plumbing lol.


----------



## grimmy

mine took a lil over a month to get here be patient alex has a lot of stuff to do


----------



## Gauvi

I just received my Liquid Fusion dual bay res (acetal + red helix) with a mcp35x pump and top.
I'm still missing some parts so I couldn't mount it yet but did some tests and immediately noticed one big issue.

My case is a Corsair 700D (similar to the 800D around the bays area) and there is no way I could mount the reservoir without drilling some holes or doing some modifications.
I'd love to hear what owners of a Corsair 700/800D case have done with their dual bay res.

How did you mount it ?


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Lol, I have just received my reservoir but I'm a bit disappointed. It took almost 2 months to arrive, but that's normal.
Problem is I ordered it with White/White helix and it arrived Clear/UV Yellow T_T. Side ports are done, as requested.
I hope the problem will be solved because the quality of the reservoir is just amazing


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyco Flipside*
> 
> Lol, I have just received my reservoir but I'm a bit disappointed. It took almost 2 months to arrive, but that's normal.
> Problem is I ordered it with White/White helix and it arrived Clear/UV Yellow T_T. Side ports are done, as requested.
> I hope the problem will be solved because the quality of the reservoir is just amazing


Looking into this right now, it's possible two orders got mixed up. Last week we shipped over 40 separate custom orders, so something may have been packed wrong.


----------



## barkinos98

how many ports does this res. series have? 4? also , where can I mount it on a Cosmos 2 case? btw, should i go with the bay res one, or the cylindrical res? i will definatly go with blood red/white


----------



## crazyg0od33

3. 2 either on end or side, and one on the opposite cap


----------



## Frozen-Q

I'm looking at our system right now, and there was another order around the same time as yours for a blue/green 250 with side ports. However, that customer received their reservoir 20 days ago and has not contacted us and said that anything was wrong. So, I'm not sure until I hear back from them if they have your reservoir or not.

Regardless, the easiest thing to do here is going to be to immediately ship you a white/white helix that you can swap out with the incorrect one since the reservoir you have at least has the correct side ports. That way you don't have to ship that back and have any long delays.

I will have some new white rod heat formed tonight and get that sent out tomorrow then. Will PM you a tracking number tomorrow afternoon.


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Looking into this right now, it's possible two orders got mixed up. Last week we shipped over 40 separate custom orders, so something may have been packed wrong.


Yep. I thought the same.
Btw, I sent you a PM with my order number.

Thanks for your quick support


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *barkinos98*
> 
> how many ports does this res. series have? 4? also , where can I mount it on a Cosmos 2 case? btw, should i go with the bay res one, or the cylindrical res? i will definatly go with blood red/white


agreed need one as well but gotta wait for many pay checks haha.


----------



## Dredknot

blood red and white is DEFINITELY the way to go










Make sure you order a white 8in ccl bulb to gon in the res if your getting a 250m res otherwise it will glow faintly purple lol.


----------



## grimmy

im idle at about 8c (for my cores)


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> 
> im idle at about 8c (for my cores)


Either you have near-freezing room temps, or the temp sensor is wrong.


----------



## grimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Either you have near-freezing room temps, or the temp sensor is wrong.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*


I'd say go off the CPU temp, not the core temps. The core temps seem off.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> im idle at about 8c (for my cores)


That is one of the coolest builds I have seen, love the lighting setup and the unique look. Do you have a build log??


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Wow, it was a huge PITA to disassemble the reservoir, but I managed to do it!!!



- Caps give no grip and was almost impossible to remove them. I had to stick a chair leg protector which gave me adherence







. After that, it was super easy. They aren't tight at all. The only thing you need is adherence.
- The helix was ultra fixed to one cap and I had fear of breaking it.
- The bulb was very tight to the helix and it was hard too. It was so tight I even discovered a crack at the clear end of the helix. I think that crack won't cause any problems but anyways, I'm not using this helix anymore because I'll be using the white I ordered at first.



I hope it won't leak when I reassemble it again with the white helix... fingers crosed


----------



## grimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyco Flipside*
> 
> Wow, it was a huge PITA to disassemble the reservoir, but I managed to do it!!!
> 
> - Caps give no grip and was almost impossible to remove them. I had to stick a chair leg protector which gave me adherence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . After that, it was super easy. They aren't tight at all. The only thing you need is adherence.
> - The helix was ultra fixed to one cap and I had fear of breaking it.
> - The bulb was very tight to the helix and it was hard too. It was so tight I even discovered a crack at the clear end of the helix. I think that crack won't cause any problems but anyways, I'm not using this helix anymore because I'll be using the white I ordered at first.
> 
> I hope it won't leak when I reassemble it again with the white helix... fingers crosed


youll be fine i had to replace my caps on my res the hardest p[art was dealing with the cathode rod tube best thing i used to help was a sharpie


----------



## MaDeuce50

Just got my V Series 250 with custom side ports in yesterday. Does anyone know where I can order the white caps? The FQPC shop don't have them listed anymore.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaDeuce50*
> 
> Just got my V Series 250 with custom side ports in yesterday. Does anyone know where I can order the white caps? The FQPC shop don't have them listed anymore.


is that the uv green or just green color??


----------



## MaDeuce50

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> is that the uv green or just green color??


The colors are dark green with the uv cathode. Shiet! I just checked out FrozenQ and the V Series 230 are $20 off.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaDeuce50*
> 
> The colors are dark green with the uv cathode. Shiet! I just checked out FrozenQ and the V Series 230 are $20 off.


hmmm might have to snag that deal then....but will be saving for that darn mobo lol.


----------



## wermad

I just got my rma replacement and huge thank you to Alex for sorting this out for me. After waiting almost a month, my previous helix res was leaking. I got the replacement a couple of days ago and I noticed the helix are a tad bit lighter blue the the bad one. Also, the caps don't have the machining lines as pronounced as this new one. Still, I'm happy I got a good one and the leak testing so far is good


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaDeuce50*
> 
> Just got my V Series 250 with custom side ports in yesterday. Does anyone know where I can order the white caps? The FQPC shop don't have them listed anymore.


Awesome color. Is that a uv helix or just dark green wondering how it will look with uv if its not.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I just got my rma replacement and huge thank you to Alex for sorting this out for me. After waiting almost a month, my previous helix res was leaking. I got the replacement a couple of days ago and I noticed the helix are a tad bit lighter blue the the bad one. Also, the caps don't have the machining lines as pronounced as this new one. Still, I'm happy I got a good one and the leak testing so far is good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! looks great love to see it powered up.


----------



## barkinos98

@FrozenQ did you ever ship a blood red/white dual bay res? i've seen the combination in several builds, but would like to see what i will be ordering soon


----------



## RedRay81

Has anyone gotten the triple helix ? It looks cool but it seems too bulky im considering getting a FrozenQ soon but debating on triple or double.

Edit: I only ask because three is a odd number, and i don't like odd numbers (not sure if it will look nice in monochromatic colors or UV colors ).

Where can i pick up one of these?!?!?
http://www.overclock.net/products/frozenq-liquid-fusion-x4-reservoir-ftw-pc-exclusive

Edit: Nvm i found it... silly me i thought it meant it was for the pc only.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Nice! looks great love to see it powered up.


Thanks







I just sold my fittings and I ordered some new ones. The new fittings for for tube with thicker walls so it will do away all those angled fittings. Sadly, this tube color has not been released by Primochill so I was stuck ordered the uv blue one. Once they release this color, i'll pick up a roll as I love the color. I don't have the official name but I just call it "pearl" blue.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyco Flipside*
> 
> Wow, it was a huge PITA to disassemble the reservoir, but I managed to do it!!!
> 
> 
> 
> - Caps give no grip and was almost impossible to remove them. I had to stick a chair leg protector which gave me adherence
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . After that, it was super easy. They aren't tight at all. The only thing you need is adherence.
> - The helix was ultra fixed to one cap and I had fear of breaking it.
> - The bulb was very tight to the helix and it was hard too. It was so tight I even discovered a crack at the clear end of the helix. I think that crack won't cause any problems but anyways, I'm not using this helix anymore because I'll be using the white I ordered at first.
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it won't leak when I reassemble it again with the white helix... fingers crosed


If you haven't done so already make sure to use PTFE tape to seal the caps. I took mine apart to clean it and it leaked when I filled my system. At least it did it immediately, so I was able to see the leak and do something about it before I started my system.

You won't need much but it will be needed.









Oh and I used rubber bands on each cap to get them loose. It was difficult to get a purchase on them otherwise.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

Today is a sad day. I sold my third 580 to pay for my 400$ icon helmet. How can I live with only 2 580s lol...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Today is a sad day. I sold my third 580 to pay for my 400$ icon helmet. How can I live with only 2 580s lol...


I dunno man, might have to end it all I guess.









Not that I advocate such a thing but goin from TriSLi to SLi? Not that I run SLi.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Today is a sad day. I sold my third 580 to pay for my 400$ icon helmet. How can I live with only 2 580s lol...










I had the exact same setup and I ended up selling all three and their HK blocks for money I needed. I ended up spending ~$2200 back then for this setup. I'm going to wait for the next gen 7xx series and I'll pounce on three 580s w/ 3gb. I'm sure you can get by w/ two in Surround, just tone down the settings


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the exact same setup and I ended up selling all three and their HK blocks for money I needed. I ended up spending ~$2200 back then for this setup. I'm going to wait for the next gen 7xx series and I'll pounce on three 580s w/ 3gb. I'm sure you can get by w/ two in Surround, just tone down the settings


Ya i thought about selling them for the 6xx but havnt been to impressed with them so far so ill just stick it out till i can afford to redo my hole system again (or they actually make a game that needs more then 2 580s to run lol).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno man, might have to end it all I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not that I advocate such a thing but goin from TriSLi to SLi? Not that I run SLi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


i know right what else is there to do lol.


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you haven't done so already make sure to use PTFE tape to seal the caps. I took mine apart to clean it and it leaked when I filled my system. At least it did it immediately, so I was able to see the leak and do something about it before I started my system.
> You won't need much but it will be needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and I used rubber bands on each cap to get them loose. It was difficult to get a purchase on them otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My white helix is finally here







but as you said, when I assembled it, the caps just slightly leaked.
The difference between your reservoir and mine's is that I have the new version which has no teflon at all, and in the new user manual, it doesn't say anything about applying teflon when reassembling.
Check both manuals:
- Before March '12: http://frozenqpcmods.com/manuals/cylres.pdf
- After March '12: http://www.frozenqpcmods.com/manuals/cylinder.pdf

By the way, as it leaks, I'm gonna apply teflon. Where should I apply it? I know nothing of plumbing other than watercooling, so I'm a little newbie here







.

Thanks!


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyco Flipside*
> 
> My white helix is finally here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but as you said, when I assembled it, the caps just slightly leaked.
> The difference between your reservoir and mine's is that I have the new version which has no teflon at all, and in the new user manual, it doesn't say anything about applying teflon when reassembling.
> Check both manuals:
> - Before March '12: http://frozenqpcmods.com/manuals/cylres.pdf
> - After March '12: http://www.frozenqpcmods.com/manuals/cylinder.pdf
> By the way, as it leaks, I'm gonna apply teflon. Where should I apply it? I know nothing of plumbing other than watercooling, so I'm a little newbie here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Thanks!


http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uc6BOAF2M1E

Let us know how it pans out.


----------



## Psyco Flipside

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quest99*
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uc6BOAF2M1E
> Let us know how it pans out.


Wow! That video really helped me out! +REP!









Btw, now I'm testing it again and it's not leaking at all for 30 minutes







. All I just did was overoveroveroveroverovertighten the caps. It's gonna be hard if I need to remove them


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So I have a question. I just got my duel bay res in and it has three open holes in the back and one plugged one up top. It only came with one plug. So why does it have three holes in the back and not two open and two with plugs?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So I have a question. I just got my duel bay res in and it has three open holes in the back and one plugged one up top. It only came with one plug. So why does it have three holes in the back and not two open and two with plugs?


There should be 2 included fill plugs. One on the top of the reservoir pre installed, and the other in the accessories bag.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> There should be 2 included fill plugs. One on the top of the reservoir pre installed, and the other in the accessories bag.


Hmmm. I was given one up top, 4 bolts and nuts, 4 mounting brackets, no extra plugs. I just ordered some of frozen CPU for like 2 bucks lol. Not even worth complaining imo. Thanks!


----------



## RedBaron V2

i plan on buying 2 more here soon for another build of mine duel looping green and blue t-virus ftw


----------



## phillyd

Oh! Getting a black Liquid Fusion V Series 250ml, with a converter sleeved black thanks to PPCS
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32105

check out the *SwitchBox* build log in which i'll be using it


----------



## superericla

Wow, I didn't know they made black FrozenQ reservoirs like that, I've never seen one like it before. Gorgeous.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Wow, I didn't know they made black FrozenQ reservoirs like that, I've never seen one like it before. Gorgeous.


I know, i cant wait


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I know, i cant wait


I'll be sure to keep an eye on your build log, it looks like a lot of exciting things are happening with it.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Wow, I didn't know they made black FrozenQ reservoirs like that, I've never seen one like it before. Gorgeous.


I have one in my build.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

For the record the T-virus is actually green. The movie director screwed it all up and made it blue. The blue was originally the anti-virus.


----------



## xRehab

Can finally join this club







waited almost 3 weeks to have this reservoir arrive, but it was so worth it.


Spoiler: 250ml Liquid Fusion











Product Name : LIQUID FUSION - 250MM
SKU : lf250-FLUGRE-BLACK-SPYES

250ml in UV green/black. little nervous it may not fit but when it finally got here it was a breeze to install. And this thing looks sooo sexy


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Wow, I didn't know they made black FrozenQ reservoirs like that, I've never seen one like it before. Gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have one in my build.
Click to expand...

What color is the cathode?


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> What color is the cathode?


Blue.


----------



## solar0987

Ordered mine yesterday








Can't wait till it gets here!


----------



## enrell

FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Reservoir


----------



## mandrix




----------



## NinjaSushi2

I'm so mad... I broke my cathode bulb last night screwing off. I was paying attention to how I was taking it out of the res and *POP!* ... #Epic Facepalm#...

So I ordered 3 more off their website in case I break another! lol. Only problem is that one was sleeved with UV green. Grr....


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*










Is that a Switch 810!?!?!?!?!?!? I too have one, in black though. Where did you get the base plate for that 810? (The part the stops at the PCI-e slots and makes it look HELLA nice. I totally need to order me something like that to make my case look that nice!


----------



## phillyd

Idk where he got his but you can get them from Dwood (in my sig) and yes that is a switch 810.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Idk where he got his but you can get them from Dwood (in my sig) and yes that is a switch 810.


Thanks for the heads up. It is called a base plate correct?


----------



## phillyd

power supply cover. just describe it he'll understand.


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that a Switch 810!?!?!?!?!?!? I too have one, in black though. Where did you get the base plate for that 810? (The part the stops at the PCI-e slots and makes it look HELLA nice. I totally need to order me something like that to make my case look that nice!


I made it from sheet metal.
Actually I'm about to redesign/rebuild it, although it probably wont be radically different.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I made it from sheet metal.
> Actually I'm about to redesign/rebuild it, although it probably wont be radically different.


I don't have the tools to do that or I would. I'm sitting here looking at this pic trying to figure out how your loop goes lol. What order is it set up?


----------



## solar0987

SOON MUAHAHAHAHA
250mm blue helix






































https://frozenqshop.com/index.php/reservoirs/lf/lf250.html


----------



## phillyd

Got my PPCS box, but no frozenq res. It's being shipped to them from FrozenQ


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Got my PPCS box, but no frozenq res. It's being shipped to them from FrozenQ


Why don't they just cut out the middle man and have it shipped to you directly? Or is this a special order that you had them add to their restock shipment?









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Why don't they just cut out the middle man and have it shipped to you directly? Or is this a special order that you had them add to their restock shipment?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


well its going to have a sleeved converter so it's a special order.


----------



## solar0987

Its here its installed but its leaking from the top and bottom











You can't make it out in the picture but there is a ring of water around the bottom cap and if i fill the ress all the way up the top cap leaks









And the light in the little tube was broken :'(


----------



## Ceadderman

You'll have to submit a ticket with Frozen Q support for the bulb.

The Res is fixable.

Now drain your loop and remove the Res. You'll need some PTFE tape to apply to the threads of the tube. Make sure to stretch the tape when you wrap the threads and you have to wrap counter to the thread so that when you put the caps back on they don't take the tape back off. Stretching the tape while applying it should make it thinner in width so that it fits the width of the treaded tube from beginning of the thread to where the thread peters out into solid plexi. Shouldn't take but one pass of the tape so that it overlaps itself. Then make sure to tighten the caps til they stop. Leaks should be gone.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Yeah my dual bay res leaks around the plexi glass even after I tightened all the screws. I was thinking about exchanging it for a 250mm and pay the difference. I have only used it by checking the res itself. My pc is down atm. Do yall think they will let me exchange it?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Yeah my dual bay res leaks around the plexi glass even after I tightened all the screws. I was thinking about exchanging it for a 250mm and pay the difference. I have only used it by checking the res itself. My pc is down atm. Do yall think they will let me exchange it?


Well b4 you do anything with it, check the Oring to make sure there is no acetal burrs creating a wick.

There is somone on YouTube that had the same think happen with the EK Dual DDC v2 top. They connected the pumps the way you're supposed to do and were leak testing the setup when water started pouring out from around the cap and out the screw ports. They took off the top and inspected it and found a piece of acetal that hadn't been cleared from the channel where the Oring is seated. They cleared it put everything back together. Viola, no more leak.

So if your Dual Bay is leaking that would be the first place I looked. Also make sure the Oring isn't twisted when you have it apart. It could be something silly like that that is causing the leak.









~Ceadder


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You'll have to submit a ticket with Frozen Q support for the bulb.
> The Res is fixable.
> Now drain your loop and remove the Res. You'll need some PTFE tape to apply to the threads of the tube. Make sure to stretch the tape when you wrap the threads and you have to wrap counter to the thread so that when you put the caps back on they don't take the tape back off. Stretching the tape while applying it should make it thinner in width so that it fits the width of the treaded tube from beginning of the thread to where the thread peters out into solid plexi. Shouldn't take but one pass of the tape so that it overlaps itself. Then make sure to tighten the caps til they stop. Leaks should be gone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's awesome but it shouldn't need tape.
Ty for the advice thought i'll have to try it after work.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Uh [email protected] cheeder.

I never said my threads were leaking, the plexi glass seal is bad. Also at the other guy. Don't tape your threads, that's dumb. You bought it new, return it for a new one. Don't tape a $100 item.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Uh [email protected] cheeder.
> 
> I never said my threads were leaking, the plexi glass seal is bad. Also at the other guy. Don't tape your threads, that's dumb. You bought it new, return it for a new one. Don't tape a $100 item.


#1. I never said tape your seal. You're confused if that's what you think that was a remedy that I would recommend for a Bay reservoir. Check he seat where the Oring sits. If you see a tuft or two(acetal is stringy in the milling process) peeking out from under the ring that is more than likely where you're issue lies.

#2. Just because it costs so much to get one of these doesn't mean that it's perfect. Frozen-Q is a start up that is perfecting their craft as they go. So you have to take these kind of things in stride. There is nothing wrong with using a single wrap of PTFE to ensure a leak free seal and it was recommended by the manufacturer to use PTFE in the process.

My apologies if I wrinkled your sensibilities relaying these things, but I see no harm in suggesting these actions in hopes that it clears up these issues for two members of OCN.









~Ceadder


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> #2. Just because it costs so much to get one of these doesn't mean that it's perfect. Frozen-Q is a start up that is perfecting their craft as they go. So you have to take these kind of things in stride. There is nothing wrong with using a single wrap of PTFE to ensure a leak free seal and it was recommended by the manufacturer to use PTFE in the process.
> My apologies if I wrinkled your sensibilities relaying these things, but I see no harm in suggesting these actions in hopes that it clears up these issues for two members of OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ty for the suggestion ceadderman







I thought about it but didn't know if it would hurt the loop any.
I ended up taping it like 3 min ago, it is not leaking now.

Totally understand about the ress nothing is perfect









It is soo beautifull!!!

Now to get the light issue sorted









Pics of it non leaking hahaha its bubbly still but tis ok it'll be better soon!!




And i bought it off here from frozen q as a reservior second.
Still comes with a 1 year warranty thought.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> #2. Just because it costs so much to get one of these doesn't mean that it's perfect. Frozen-Q is a start up that is perfecting their craft as they go. So you have to take these kind of things in stride. There is nothing wrong with using a single wrap of PTFE to ensure a leak free seal and it was recommended by the manufacturer to use PTFE in the process.
> My apologies if I wrinkled your sensibilities relaying these things, but I see no harm in suggesting these actions in hopes that it clears up these issues for two members of OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ty for the suggestion ceadderman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about it but didn't know if it would hurt the loop any.
> I ended up taping it like 3 min ago, it is not leaking now.
> 
> Totally understand about the ress nothing is perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is soo beautifull!!!
> 
> Now to get the light issue sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics of it non leaking hahaha its bubbly still but tis ok it'll be better soon!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i bought it off here from frozen q as a reservior second.
> Still comes with a 1 year warranty thought.
Click to expand...

You're welcome. I'm glad it helped you and glad to see that secsy beast with water in it.









Nothing against anyone for saying that you shouldn't have to use PTFE but they don't use it in Plumbing for nothing. There isn't a fitting in my system that doesn't have PTFE on it. Whether it's needed or not I use it. I also don't overtighten my fittings. I use tape and tighten until it's hand tight +1/4 turn. I've never used a single wrench on my fittings and other water components.

Can't go wrong when you account for the tape. If you're ham fisted and crossthread std screws on a regular basis, anything can get mucked up.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> #1. I never said tape your seal. You're confused if that's what you think that was a remedy that I would recommend for a Bay reservoir. Check he seat where the Oring sits. If you see a tuft or two(acetal is stringy in the milling process) peeking out from under the ring that is more than likely where you're issue lies.
> #2. Just because it costs so much to get one of these doesn't mean that it's perfect. Frozen-Q is a start up that is perfecting their craft as they go. So you have to take these kind of things in stride. There is nothing wrong with using a single wrap of PTFE to ensure a leak free seal and it was recommended by the manufacturer to use PTFE in the process.
> My apologies if I wrinkled your sensibilities relaying these things, but I see no harm in suggesting these actions in hopes that it clears up these issues for two members of OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Didn't mean to offend. I understand all sediments stated but still. This is America and that's just how Americans do business.
If you bought it broken, the oem always replaces it and then they attempt to refix it themselves.
That's the American way. Like Walmart gets a tax write off for everything broken or returned.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Ty for the suggestion ceadderman
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought about it but didn't know if it would hurt the loop any.
> I ended up taping it like 3 min ago, it is not leaking now.
> Totally understand about the ress nothing is perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is soo beautifull!!!
> Now to get the light issue sorted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pics of it non leaking hahaha its bubbly still but tis ok it'll be better soon!!
> 
> 
> 
> And i bought it off here from frozen q as a reservior second.
> Still comes with a 1 year warranty thought.


Sexy... I like your setup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You're welcome. I'm glad it helped you and glad to see that secsy beast with water in it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing against anyone for saying that you shouldn't have to use PTFE but they don't use it in Plumbing for nothing. There isn't a fitting in my system that doesn't have PTFE on it. Whether it's needed or not I use it. I also don't overtighten my fittings. I use tape and tighten until it's hand tight +1/4 turn. I've never used a single wrench on my fittings and other water components.
> Can't go wrong when you account for the tape. If you're ham fisted and crossthread std screws on a regular basis, anything can get mucked up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


True statement.


----------



## Batanga

ugh putting mine in this weekend, had it for 3 months and haven't got around to re-organising my loop ha ha

hopefully I don't have a leaker on my hands ><

and if I do looks like ill be taking the tape route..


----------



## phillyd

Got my FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 250ml res w/black helix



check out the SwitchBox in my sig


----------



## Quest99

What color cathod is that Phillyd? UV? Very nice!


----------



## phillyd

Yes its UV, I might just use my white one.


----------



## sticks435

Hey all I have a question. Can the bulb in these be reversed so that the plastic wing nut is at the bottom instead of the fill port? Reason I ask is I turned up Res upside down because it works better for my routing that way, but completely forgot the wingnut was now at the bottom and it's cutting off flow to my pump now







.

Thanks!


----------



## superericla

Plastic wing nut? I've been using mine upside-down with a pump for a while now and haven't noticed any issues.


----------



## sticks435

Well I tried it this morning and it was working. Trying to bleed it a little before I have to leave for a few hours.

Edit: I have a big air bubble stick betweeen the out on my GPU and the in on my Rad, if I turn the computer completly upside down, it seems to go away, but when I set it right side up, it comes back. I turned the pump off with it upside down, fliped it back up and turned it on, I could see the bubble go from the CPU down in to the GPU. Any idea how to force it into the res?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Well I tried it this morning and it was working. Trying to bleed it a little before I have to leave for a few hours.
> 
> Edit: I have a big air bubble stick betweeen the out on my GPU and the in on my Rad, if I turn the computer completly upside down, it seems to go away, but when I set it right side up, it comes back. I turned the pump off with it upside down, fliped it back up and turned it on, I could see the bubble go from the CPU down in to the GPU. Any idea how to force it into the res?


I leave the fillport open and just run the pump while I slowly fill the system and leave the system open to cycle the air out.









~Ceadder


----------



## sticks435

Yea, I turned it off for about 20 minutes this morning and when I turned it back on it came right out. Now just got bunch of little ass bubbles. lol.


----------



## Batanga

add me to the list pls


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Batanga*
> 
> add me to the list pls


Very nice. Im thinking of going back to my green setup just looks so much more acidy lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Yea, I turned it off for about 20 minutes this morning and when I turned it back on it came right out. Now just got bunch of little ass bubbles. lol.


man ive had mine running for more then a month and still have little tiny bubbles lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Batanga*
> 
> add me to the list pls
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice. Im thinking of going back to my green setup just looks so much more acidy lol.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Yea, I turned it off for about 20 minutes this morning and when I turned it back on it came right out. Now just got bunch of little ass bubbles. lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> man ive had mine running for more then a month and still have little tiny bubbles lol.
Click to expand...

Leave the cap off if you have a true fillport. Those bubbles will be gone in no time.









~Ceadder


----------



## sticks435

Well it's basically one of the G1/4th thread holes lol. What I should have done was get a pressure release valve or something for my UT60, so I could release air there, but still keep the water in. Might look into that when I do my first drain.


----------



## Dredknot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Leave the cap off if you have a true fillport. Those bubbles will be gone in no time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


lol trust me ive tried had my cap off for like 2 weeks


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Leave the cap off if you have a true fillport. Those bubbles will be gone in no time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol trust me ive tried had my cap off for like 2 weeks
Click to expand...

Are you filling a little coolant per day?

I leave my cap off and top off the system as necessary to fill the space vacated by the bubbles.









~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

ya idk they seem to come and go lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

I seem to do pretty well based on where the Res is in the loop. The coolant fills the Res enough to force coolant into the out tube and then I fill til it hits the top of res and power up while filling as I go. System only holds a little over 600ml so it generally goes pretty quickly and keeps the pumps lubricated.









Once that's accomplished I give it a few days adding coolant as necessary.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

I didn't really like the UV cathode in my res so I put a white and a blue led in it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Very cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## Quest99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> I didn't really like the UV cathode in my res so I put a white and a blue led in it.


Love your lighting!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Grrr... I bought this dual bay res and finally modded my case enough and fit everything in nice and neat. Then I realized due to my 420mm rad I would lose 1 bay slot and now I think I want a tube res and not this dual bay res. 1 week old, Dual Bay Black (Not acrylic), double helix UV Green. Any takers? I think I'm going Reaction Core or RC Extreme. Not sure yet... going for that toxic waste build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Grrr... I bought this dual bay res and finally modded my case enough and fit everything in nice and neat. Then I realized due to my 420mm rad I would lose 1 bay slot and now I think I want a tube res and not this dual bay res. 1 week old, Dual Bay Black (Not acrylic), double helix UV Green. Any takers? I think I'm going Reaction Core or RC Extreme. Not sure yet... going for that toxic waste build.


Damn Sushi, wish it had Red helices. That's what I'm gonna do if I get another Res for this system. I'm considering running two in my system with the bay Res being top off indicator.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Grrr... I bought this dual bay res and finally modded my case enough and fit everything in nice and neat. Then I realized due to my 420mm rad I would lose 1 bay slot and now I think I want a tube res and not this dual bay res. 1 week old, Dual Bay Black (Not acrylic), double helix UV Green. Any takers? I think I'm going Reaction Core or RC Extreme. Not sure yet... going for that toxic waste build.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn Sushi, wish it had Red helices. That's what I'm gonna do if I get another Res for this system. I'm considering running two in my system with the bay Res being top off indicator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Damn. It was almost love at first type.. Yeah sorry I bought green and realized this 810 switch has ZERO bay drives after you drop a 420, 1 dual bay res, and 1 rom drive. I wouldn't buy it unless you air cool then it's great. I really want to get a TJ11 or at the least a 07.

I like your system btw. ^^


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Grrr... I bought this dual bay res and finally modded my case enough and fit everything in nice and neat. Then I realized due to my 420mm rad I would lose 1 bay slot and now I think I want a tube res and not this dual bay res. 1 week old, Dual Bay Black (Not acrylic), double helix UV Green. Any takers? I think I'm going Reaction Core or RC Extreme. Not sure yet... going for that toxic waste build.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn Sushi, wish it had Red helices. That's what I'm gonna do if I get another Res for this system. I'm considering running two in my system with the bay Res being top off indicator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Damn. It was almost love at first type.. Yeah sorry I bought green and realized this 810 switch has ZERO bay drives after you drop a 420, 1 dual bay res, and 1 rom drive. I wouldn't buy it unless you air cool then it's great. I really want to get a TJ11 or at the least a 07.
> 
> I like your system btw. ^^
Click to expand...

Thanks. 932 is a great case for watercooling other than the ports on a 360 really should be at the back instead of the front of the case. Otherwise it can be a tad difficult to work with Compression fittings. That's my only chagrin with this case. But what do ya expect for ~$180 when it was new. nowadays if you want clear access to your equipment you're gonna pay for it. i.e. Case Labs, Silverstone TJ11 etc. I wanted a Cosmos or a TJ when I was case shopping for this build, had I gone that route I'd still be on air.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Grrr... I bought this dual bay res and finally modded my case enough and fit everything in nice and neat. Then I realized due to my 420mm rad I would lose 1 bay slot and now I think I want a tube res and not this dual bay res. 1 week old, Dual Bay Black (Not acrylic), double helix UV Green. Any takers? I think I'm going Reaction Core or RC Extreme. Not sure yet... going for that toxic waste build.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn Sushi, wish it had Red helices. That's what I'm gonna do if I get another Res for this system. I'm considering running two in my system with the bay Res being top off indicator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Damn. It was almost love at first type.. Yeah sorry I bought green and realized this 810 switch has ZERO bay drives after you drop a 420, 1 dual bay res, and 1 rom drive. I wouldn't buy it unless you air cool then it's great. I really want to get a TJ11 or at the least a 07.
> 
> I like your system btw. ^^
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks. 932 is a great case for watercooling other than the ports on a 360 really should be at the back instead of the front of the case. Otherwise it can be a tad difficult to work with Compression fittings. That's my only chagrin with this case. But what do ya expect for ~$180 when it was new. nowadays if you want clear access to your equipment you're gonna pay for it. i.e. Case Labs, Silverstone TJ11 etc. I wanted a Cosmos or a TJ when I was case shopping for this build, had I gone that route I'd still be on air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Oh... ceadder.. BUTTER MY BISCUIT AND CALL ME CHARLIE! I just realized your SN is C-E-A-D-D-E-R... I kept saying to myself in my head. Cheddar... man I'm dumb sometimes. LOL

Yeah I just priced that TJ11 and almost pooped my draws. For that kind of money I can buy a Caselabs and profit; though that damn case keeps calling my name!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Grrr... I bought this dual bay res and finally modded my case enough and fit everything in nice and neat. Then I realized due to my 420mm rad I would lose 1 bay slot and now I think I want a tube res and not this dual bay res. 1 week old, Dual Bay Black (Not acrylic), double helix UV Green. Any takers? I think I'm going Reaction Core or RC Extreme. Not sure yet... going for that toxic waste build.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn Sushi, wish it had Red helices. That's what I'm gonna do if I get another Res for this system. I'm considering running two in my system with the bay Res being top off indicator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Damn. It was almost love at first type.. Yeah sorry I bought green and realized this 810 switch has ZERO bay drives after you drop a 420, 1 dual bay res, and 1 rom drive. I wouldn't buy it unless you air cool then it's great. I really want to get a TJ11 or at the least a 07.
> 
> I like your system btw. ^^
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks. 932 is a great case for watercooling other than the ports on a 360 really should be at the back instead of the front of the case. Otherwise it can be a tad difficult to work with Compression fittings. That's my only chagrin with this case. But what do ya expect for ~$180 when it was new. nowadays if you want clear access to your equipment you're gonna pay for it. i.e. Case Labs, Silverstone TJ11 etc. I wanted a Cosmos or a TJ when I was case shopping for this build, had I gone that route I'd still be on air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh... ceadder.. BUTTER MY BISCUIT AND CALL ME CHARLIE! I just realized your SN is C-E-A-D-D-E-R... I kept saying to myself in my head. Cheddar... man I'm dumb sometimes. LOL
> 
> Yeah I just priced that TJ11 and almost pooped my draws. For that kind of money I can buy a Caselabs and profit; though that damn case keeps calling my name!!
Click to expand...

Is all good homie. That's realatively close to how it's pronounced anyway. Not spot on but I don't get my nose bent outta joint over it.









Yeah see, that freakin case has been out this long and Silverstone either still wants their launch price or vendors are bein greedy and selling that high. Either way is BS. Blasted thing has been out about 3 years now.









As I said though I would love to have that Res but it just wouldn't fit my build. I wanna get the Blood Red or White Helices. I'm really considering the white and changing the CCL to Red sing that's how it is in my Interior. Red LEDs' and CCL reflecting off my white tubing. And still need to get some Red LEDs' worked up and sleeved to fit my Res. I got more than enough Red LEDs' to string together in a set of four to light up the Res.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Grrr... I bought this dual bay res and finally modded my case enough and fit everything in nice and neat. Then I realized due to my 420mm rad I would lose 1 bay slot and now I think I want a tube res and not this dual bay res. 1 week old, Dual Bay Black (Not acrylic), double helix UV Green. Any takers? I think I'm going Reaction Core or RC Extreme. Not sure yet... going for that toxic waste build.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn Sushi, wish it had Red helices. That's what I'm gonna do if I get another Res for this system. I'm considering running two in my system with the bay Res being top off indicator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Damn. It was almost love at first type.. Yeah sorry I bought green and realized this 810 switch has ZERO bay drives after you drop a 420, 1 dual bay res, and 1 rom drive. I wouldn't buy it unless you air cool then it's great. I really want to get a TJ11 or at the least a 07.
> 
> I like your system btw. ^^
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks. 932 is a great case for watercooling other than the ports on a 360 really should be at the back instead of the front of the case. Otherwise it can be a tad difficult to work with Compression fittings. That's my only chagrin with this case. But what do ya expect for ~$180 when it was new. nowadays if you want clear access to your equipment you're gonna pay for it. i.e. Case Labs, Silverstone TJ11 etc. I wanted a Cosmos or a TJ when I was case shopping for this build, had I gone that route I'd still be on air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh... ceadder.. BUTTER MY BISCUIT AND CALL ME CHARLIE! I just realized your SN is C-E-A-D-D-E-R... I kept saying to myself in my head. Cheddar... man I'm dumb sometimes. LOL
> 
> Yeah I just priced that TJ11 and almost pooped my draws. For that kind of money I can buy a Caselabs and profit; though that damn case keeps calling my name!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is all good homie. That's realatively close to how it's pronounced anyway. Not spot on but I don't get my nose bent outta joint over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah see, that freakin case has been out this long and Silverstone either still wants their launch price or vendors are bein greedy and selling that high. Either way is BS. Blasted thing has been out about 3 years now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said though I would love to have that Res but it just wouldn't fit my build. I wanna get the Blood Red or White Helices. I'm really considering the white and changing the CCL to Red sing that's how it is in my Interior. Red LEDs' and CCL reflecting off my white tubing. And still need to get some Red LEDs' worked up and sleeved to fit my Res. I got more than enough Red LEDs' to string together in a set of four to light up the Res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Grrr... I bought this dual bay res and finally modded my case enough and fit everything in nice and neat. Then I realized due to my 420mm rad I would lose 1 bay slot and now I think I want a tube res and not this dual bay res. 1 week old, Dual Bay Black (Not acrylic), double helix UV Green. Any takers? I think I'm going Reaction Core or RC Extreme. Not sure yet... going for that toxic waste build.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn Sushi, wish it had Red helices. That's what I'm gonna do if I get another Res for this system. I'm considering running two in my system with the bay Res being top off indicator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Damn. It was almost love at first type.. Yeah sorry I bought green and realized this 810 switch has ZERO bay drives after you drop a 420, 1 dual bay res, and 1 rom drive. I wouldn't buy it unless you air cool then it's great. I really want to get a TJ11 or at the least a 07.
> 
> I like your system btw. ^^
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks. 932 is a great case for watercooling other than the ports on a 360 really should be at the back instead of the front of the case. Otherwise it can be a tad difficult to work with Compression fittings. That's my only chagrin with this case. But what do ya expect for ~$180 when it was new. nowadays if you want clear access to your equipment you're gonna pay for it. i.e. Case Labs, Silverstone TJ11 etc. I wanted a Cosmos or a TJ when I was case shopping for this build, had I gone that route I'd still be on air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh... ceadder.. BUTTER MY BISCUIT AND CALL ME CHARLIE! I just realized your SN is C-E-A-D-D-E-R... I kept saying to myself in my head. Cheddar... man I'm dumb sometimes. LOL
> 
> Yeah I just priced that TJ11 and almost pooped my draws. For that kind of money I can buy a Caselabs and profit; though that damn case keeps calling my name!!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is all good homie. That's realatively close to how it's pronounced anyway. Not spot on but I don't get my nose bent outta joint over it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Yeah see, that freakin case has been out this long and Silverstone either still wants their launch price or vendors are bein greedy and selling that high. Either way is BS. Blasted thing has been out about 3 years now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> As I said though I would love to have that Res but it just wouldn't fit my build. I wanna get the Blood Red or White Helices. I'm really considering the white and changing the CCL to Red sing that's how it is in my Interior. Red LEDs' and CCL reflecting off my white tubing. And still need to get some Red LEDs' worked up and sleeved to fit my Res. I got more than enough Red LEDs' to string together in a set of four to light up the Res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Take pics and I'll throw you ideas.


----------



## Ceadderman

Already have pics.









Although this is not as Red as I would like it to be in the lighting category.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Here is what I'm messing with currently.

Well I've been talking about that mid plate for the switch 810 for awhile now but couldn't come up with a design. Here are two pics done in gimp. The first by me as a rough idea and the second done by a buddy of mine (yes he is VERY good).

This is what I came up with.


This is what my buddy redid for me.


I was originally thinking having the caution text and biohazard symbol all done as shown except with the words on the left side. Biohazard in the middle, and on the right a hand reaching out of the ground. Something like *Caution Sign - Bio-Hazard, Hand* for the cover plate. (Would cover the PSU, etc, and connect to the mid plate)


----------



## NinjaSushi2

You know I feel like such an ass now Cheddar biscuit? I am now recommending the PTFE tape to someone else. LOL! I was in a crappy mode a few weeks ago. *I'm sorry*


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> You know I feel like such an ass now Cheddar biscuit? I am now recommending the PTFE tape to someone else. LOL! I was in a crappy mode a few weeks ago. *I'm sorry*


All good brotha Sushi, I don't take things personally.









~Ceadder


----------



## phillyd

My friend got a decent camera so we decided to take some pics. Check the switchbox build log in the sig below. Things are moving slowly but surely.


----------



## jbmayes2000

Just a quick question for you owners:

If you had UV blue coolant but non-uv helix tubes, what would that look like?

I've been trying to find examples of where people have done this (uv dye with non uv helixs), I haven't gone through all of the pages of this thread but I may have to do so! Any help would be great! thanks!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> Just a quick question for you owners:
> 
> If you had UV blue coolant but non-uv helix tubes, what would that look like?
> 
> I've been trying to find examples of where people have done this (uv dye with non uv helixs), I haven't gone through all of the pages of this thread but I may have to do so! Any help would be great! thanks!


The only differences in the helix's are the cathode color so it looks fine. You can get another color cathode bulb to replace it if you want


----------



## jbmayes2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The only differences in the helix's are the cathode color so it looks fine. You can get another color cathode bulb to replace it if you want


Sorry I think i meant fluorescent vs non-fluorescent.

The actually bulb is the one that is straight that runs down the middle correct? And the helix's just react to that bulb? Or do the helix's have their own bulb?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The only differences in the helix's are the cathode color so it looks fine. You can get another color cathode bulb to replace it if you want
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I think i meant fluorescent vs non-fluorescent.
> 
> The actually bulb is the one that is straight that runs down the middle correct? And the helix's just react to that bulb? Or do the helix's have their own bulb?
Click to expand...

The only option is cold cathode.
And the helix simply reacts


----------



## jbmayes2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The only option is cold cathode.
> And the helix simply reacts


Right so I guess what I'm wondering is, does anyone have the non reactive helix with uv coolant?

I was wondering what two white non reactive helix's would look like with blue reactive dye.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The only option is cold cathode.
> And the helix simply reacts
> 
> 
> 
> Right so I guess what I'm wondering is, does anyone have the non reactive helix with uv coolant?
> 
> I was wondering what two white non reactive helix's would look like with blue reactive dye.
Click to expand...

It would look no different than in the bottle. If you have UV lights in the case then it would glow normally. The helix's are not UV reactive


----------



## feniks

just recently acquired and installed one of FrozenQ reservoirs! they are beautiful! Mine is a Liquid Fusion 160mm V2 with dual-color helix (red UV & blue UV) and side ports.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> just recently acquired and installed one of FrozenQ reservoirs! they are beautiful! Mine is a Liquid Fusion 160mm V2 with dual-color helix (red UV & blue UV) and side ports.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Very cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Very cool.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


thanks!


----------



## Winther

I dont know if I can ask this here but I will try anyways..

I would really like to get a double helix reservoir but atm I dont have the room to have a pump anywhere *under* the res so I ordered another res that can be fitted to a koolance pump top for the Alphacool VPP655 pump.. But I think I saw, somewhere in this thread that someone has fitted a FrozenQ res ontop of a pump and pump top..

can this be done and deos a frozenQ res fit on the Koolance COV-RP450 ??

If anyone knows I would really like to know too!









thanks in advance!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winther*
> 
> I dont know if I can ask this here but I will try anyways..
> 
> I would really like to get a double helix reservoir but atm I dont have the room to have a pump anywhere *under* the res so I ordered another res that can be fitted to a koolance pump top for the Alphacool VPP655 pump.. But I think I saw, somewhere in this thread that someone has fitted a FrozenQ res ontop of a pump and pump top..
> 
> can this be done and deos a frozenQ res fit on the Koolance COV-RP450 ??
> 
> If anyone knows I would really like to know too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks in advance!


Which pump? Which top?


Spoiler: Here is my setup










































It's a Dual DDC setup with EK Dual DDC v2 top connected to the Res via male/male G1/4 fitting.









~Ceadder


----------



## Winther

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which pump? Which top?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here is my setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Dual DDC setup with EK Dual DDC v2 top connected to the Res via male/male G1/4 fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was thinking about the Alphacool VPP655 pump and then the Koolance COV-RP450 and then I would need some kind of adapter from 60mm to 50mm









The pump:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=13121

The pump top:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=16411

Maybe this adapter: (I know its 2 x "male threads")
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=14752

My question though, is if the FrozenQ reservoirs and be used with another reservoir buttom?


----------



## jbmayes2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> It would look no different than in the bottle. If you have UV lights in the case then it would glow normally. The helix's are not UV reactive


But the Helix's can be fluorescent which reacts with the uv cathode in the res.

I think the look i'm going for(white nonfluorescent helix's and blue uv dye) will look good. I was afraid that once the dye reacts, everything inside the res will just look blue. Oh well..i've got a while anyway.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbmayes2000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> It would look no different than in the bottle. If you have UV lights in the case then it would glow normally. The helix's are not UV reactive
> 
> 
> 
> But the Helix's can be fluorescent which reacts with the uv cathode in the res.
> 
> I think the look i'm going for(white nonfluorescent helix's and blue uv dye) will look good. I was afraid that once the dye reacts, everything inside the res will just look blue. Oh well..i've got a while anyway.
Click to expand...

If they are fluorescent they convert most or all light that hits them into their own color. Uv or not


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Winther*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which pump? Which top?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Here is my setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's a Dual DDC setup with EK Dual DDC v2 top connected to the Res via male/male G1/4 fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about the Alphacool VPP655 pump and then the Koolance COV-RP450 and then I would need some kind of adapter from 60mm to 50mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The pump:
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=13121
> 
> The pump top:
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=16411
> 
> Maybe this adapter: (I know its 2 x "male threads")
> http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=14752
> 
> My question though, is if the FrozenQ reservoirs and be used with another reservoir buttom?
Click to expand...

Sorry, my nose was buried in FO:New Vegas. No there is no adapter for FQ Reservoirs that would put them with a pump unless you get one of their Bay Reservoirs and an adapter for that to mate with the Pump. They have adapter blocks for both DDC as well as D5 pumps.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> just recently acquired and installed one of FrozenQ reservoirs! they are beautiful! Mine is a Liquid Fusion 160mm V2 with dual-color helix (red UV & blue UV) and side ports.


What kind of tubing is that? Color and brand.

I was thinking about the Alphacool VPP655 pump and then the Koolance COV-RP450 and then I would need some kind of adapter from 60mm to 50mm









The pump:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=13121

The pump top:
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=16411

Maybe this adapter: (I know its 2 x "male threads")
http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?productid=14752

My question though, is if the FrozenQ reservoirs and be used with another reservoir buttom?







[/quote]

I like that pump. I have it









*@ The dude who makes these reservoirs.*

I am wondering how much it would cost to make a custom reservoir in the shape of beaker. Maybe with a toxic waste or bio hazard symbol on it. I'm sure I could find some kind of decal somewhere. What do you guys think of this idea for my specialty build I am doing?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Maybe a decal like this across it. ^^


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## superericla

^^ Try sending an email to [email protected]


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> ^^ Try sending an email to [email protected]


Just getting ideas.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Just getting ideas.


Sending an email to FrozenQ can help you get a price estimate and is a good way to check if they have the capability of making things like this.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Just getting ideas.
> 
> 
> 
> Sending an email to FrozenQ can help you get a price estimate and is a good way to check if they have the capability of making things like this.
Click to expand...

Yahoo is down either way and I still want ideas. If they can't make it I will find someone who can.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What kind of tubing is that? Color and brand.


Primochill's Primoflex UV Blue


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What kind of tubing is that? Color and brand.
> 
> 
> 
> Primochill's Primoflex UV Blue
Click to expand...

So the tubing is UV blue? didn't know they made uv reactive tubing..


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So the tubing is UV blue? didn't know they made uv reactive tubing..


yeah, they have quite a selection of sizes and colors. I also like their tubing for flexibility and resistance to kinks.


----------



## mandrix

Someone have a pic of one of the cylindrical helix res apart? I can't remember if the inner chamber for the cathode tube is part of the helix or not. I would like to ditch the helix and just use my led's since I don't use a cathode anymore.
Well I don't need a pic if someone can tell me I guess.
Thanks!


----------



## Lazy Bear

I ordered my bay res a couple weeks ago, still waiting on it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mandrix*
> 
> Someone have a pic of one of the cylindrical helix res apart? I can't remember if the inner chamber for the cathode tube is part of the helix or not. I would like to ditch the helix and just use my led's since I don't use a cathode anymore.
> Well I don't need a pic if someone can tell me I guess.
> Thanks!


Yes and no, the tube is part of it. The tube threads into both the helice and the cap I think. There is a plastic cap on the unsupported end that the tube threads into as well. That Cap is on the black plastic disc that the helices are attached to. It should be relatively simple to remove the helices and just run the tube with LEDs' in it but kind of an expensive mod when you could just sell the Res and buy a new one and attach a couple LED plugs to light it up imho.









But YES, it can be done if you choose to ignore the free advice.









~Ceadder


----------



## mandrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes and no, the tube is part of it. The tube threads into both the helice and the cap I think. There is a plastic cap on the unsupported end that the tube threads into as well. That Cap is on the black plastic disc that the helices are attached to. It should be relatively simple to remove the helices and just run the tube with LEDs' in it but kind of an expensive mod when you could just sell the Res and buy a new one and attach a couple LED plugs to light it up imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But YES, it can be done if you choose to ignore the free advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah, OK, I'll check it out when I take the rig down in a few weeks. Thanks!
As for selling, I can't sell anything. I've got two rigs I'd like to sell right now but this is a bad area for computer sales, here in the boondocks.Wife says we're getting overrun with computers.....lol.


----------



## Dredknot

Well my res finally gave out. A couple of days ago the tube holding the cathode started filling with water. Luckily i removed the cathode awhile ago so its not really a big deal but water will seep out of the hole in the top of the res when i shut the computer off. Gonna have to take it all apart soon and see what has happened.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Well my res finally gave out. A couple of days ago the tube holding the cathode started filling with water. Luckily i removed the cathode awhile ago so its not really a big deal but water will seep out of the hole in the top of the res when i shut the computer off. Gonna have to take it all apart soon and see what has happened.


Take a the end cap out of a Bic Pen(preferably black) stretch some PTFE over it and plug the hole. Then get hold of Frozen Q and order a new tube, apply PTFE to the threads and replace the busted tube. Problem solved.









I have the end cap from a BiC pen in mine. Fits reasonably well. I only put it in there to keep water out of the tube when I top off my loop. So no, your Res isn't toast unless of course you want it to be and you're using it as an excuse to buy a new one so that the wife/bookkeeper/key master won't complain. I mean what's a $100 Res compared to a $2000 system, right?







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Dredknot

haha right? no its completely usable still and im defiantly not buying a different kind of res. just been lazy and haven't wanted to break it down again. Thinking of switching to a green theme again so im just waiting till i jump the gun on the parts.


----------



## aeonoscence

i have an amber one, coz the red ones ran out...anyone wanna trade? :J


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dredknot*
> 
> Well my res finally gave out. A couple of days ago the tube holding the cathode started filling with water. Luckily i removed the cathode awhile ago so its not really a big deal but water will seep out of the hole in the top of the res when i shut the computer off. Gonna have to take it all apart soon and see what has happened.
> 
> 
> 
> Take a the end cap out of a Bic Pen(preferably black) stretch some PTFE over it and plug the hole. Then get hold of Frozen Q and order a new tube, apply PTFE to the threads and replace the busted tube. Problem solved.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the end cap from a BiC pen in mine. Fits reasonably well. I only put it in there to keep water out of the tube when I top off my loop. So no, your Res isn't toast unless of course you want it to be and you're using it as an excuse to buy a new one so that the wife/bookkeeper/key master won't complain. I mean what's a $100 Res compared to a $2000 system, right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

That's my excuse.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> i have an amber one, coz the red ones ran out...anyone wanna trade? :J


I have a green bay res I am trading or selling off.








lol

Is that red coolant with an amber res?


----------



## aeonoscence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I have a green bay res I am trading or selling off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Is that red coolant with an amber res?


Hehe i called my rig the liquid rainbow...multicoloured







but ill turn down the green offer







yeah, ita the red stuff from koolance, never again. Looks good but a pain to flush.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aeonoscence*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I have a green bay res I am trading or selling off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Is that red coolant with an amber res?
> 
> 
> 
> Hehe i called my rig the liquid rainbow...multicoloured
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but ill turn down the green offer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, ita the red stuff from koolance, never again. Looks good but a pain to flush.
Click to expand...

Mayhem = Greatest of all.


----------



## aeonoscence

LMAO never coolant again. DI + LU all the way.


----------



## Raparker

Alex has just sent me the picture of my finished design, just awaiting delivery.
He told me these are the First ever clear frosted caps







he did an amazing job of them aswell!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Alex has just sent me the picture of my finished design, just awaiting delivery.
> He told me these are the First ever clear frosted caps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he did an amazing job of them aswell!


Oh man that's niiiiice. Wonder if he's going to make a special run of those caps. I'd love to get some.









~Ceadder


----------



## Raparker

It was a custom request which he did for free. Im sure if enough people asked for them he would offer them.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Those caps are very sexy. I could see people requesting them. I've been meaning to email him about a custom res in the shape of a beaker. One with a cathode going down the middle to allow my mayhems dye to glow.


----------



## feniks

here is a more recent pic of mine, close up and no air bubbles on helices









Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This is a FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V2 160mm reservoir with UV Red & UV Blue helices and side ports, SKU lf160-FLUBLU-FLURED-SPYES

also to whomever I suggested Primochill tubing before, please forget about what I said to save yourself the headache and go with Feser UV Active tubing instead! Primochill stinks...


----------



## Raparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> here is a more recent pic of mine, close up and no air bubbles on helices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> also to whomever I suggested Primochill tubing before, please forget about what I said to save yourself the headache and go with Feser UV Active tubing instead! Primochill stinks...


Looks to be same colour as mine but mine is a 250ml with frosted caps.
Just bought red primochill tubing eugh


----------



## Raparker

Having trouble with OCUK at the moment getting my stuff to me =\ ordered some stuff and one was out of stock. Waited a week now thats in stock and 2 others are out of stock. Hopefully shall get my build fully done next week but still waiting on my res and phobya 200mm rad


----------



## Frozen-Q

Frosted caps are now an available option.

There were some issues with machining them from before, but with some new tools and some time to work with them, we've got it down.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Frosted caps are now an available option.
> 
> There were some issues with machining them from before, but with some new tools and some time to work with them, we've got it down.


Oooooh awesome, I may finally break down and get a couple of CCL bulbs for this 200 also if you can get Red ones. I'm supposing that I would have to send my Res in to get some Frosty Caps?









~Ceadder


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oooooh awesome, I may finally break down and get a couple of CCL bulbs for this 200 also if you can get Red ones. I'm supposing that I would have to send my Res in to get some Frosty Caps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Depends which version you have. If its the one with where the light tube seals via o-ring compression, then no we could just ship you a set. If its the old type with the threaded cathode shell, then yes you'd want to send it back to be changed out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Oooooh awesome, I may finally break down and get a couple of CCL bulbs for this 200 also if you can get Red ones. I'm supposing that I would have to send my Res in to get some Frosty Caps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depends which version you have. If its the one with where the light tube seals via o-ring compression, then no we could just ship you a set. If its the old type with the threaded cathode shell, then yes you'd want to send it back to be changed out.
Click to expand...

Yuppers... threaded cathode shell.









~Ceadder


----------



## feniks

I know he he, yours reminded me of mine LOL!








it's a good color mix on helices (uv blue & uv red), black caps suit my case well (inside black), is yours case light/white color or it will go on a black background?

as per Promochill, please sent it back or something, really, you will regret you ever heard of this brand, they sell some gunky junk hoses nowadays ... there is a super long rant thread about Plasticizer (or some anti-microbial additives) leeching from tubing and Primochill seems like the worst offender on this one. been there, done that, not fun flushing and cleaning ... still have to open my Raystorm CPU block for inspection/cleaning ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Looks to be same colour as mine but mine is a 250ml with frosted caps.
> Just bought red primochill tubing eugh


----------



## Raparker

Ill give it a go. Only other tubing ive got is xpsc


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> here is a more recent pic of mine, close up and no air bubbles on helices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us
> 
> 
> 
> also to whomever I suggested Primochill tubing before, please forget about what I said to save yourself the headache and go with Feser UV Active tubing instead! Primochill stinks...


What tubing is that? Well color. That **** is amazing looking!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

[quote name="Frozen-Q[/quote]

PM in your box. -Bro fist-


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What tubing is that? Well color. That **** is amazing looking!


That is a Feser UV Active Blue tubing under a UV light


----------



## MrBigglesWorth

Could someone who owns one of these tube reservoirs explain to me how they are mounted? From the outside looking in, its a little hard to grasp how it works.

Thanks in advance


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBigglesWorth*
> 
> Could someone who owns one of these tube reservoirs explain to me how they are mounted? From the outside looking in, its a little hard to grasp how it works.
> Thanks in advance


There are two semi-circular clasps that grab onto the reservoir and are held onto the case by a screw and nut each. The picture in my avatar shows it pretty well.


----------



## MrBigglesWorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> There are two semi-circular clasps that grab onto the reservoir and are held onto the case by a screw and nut each. The picture in my avatar shows it pretty well.


and those clasps can mount the res vertically and horizontally? thanks thats much more simple than I thought it was for some reason.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrBigglesWorth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> There are two semi-circular clasps that grab onto the reservoir and are held onto the case by a screw and nut each. The picture in my avatar shows it pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> and those clasps can mount the res vertically and horizontally? thanks thats much more simple than I thought it was for some reason.
Click to expand...

It's a lie! It's actually held in by magik!


----------



## brodieboy143

Count me in!




Loop isn't assembled yet, waiting on GPU blocks to arrive but this was the first component I bought after seeing some of the pics and build logs on here.

My helices are black and dark blue and I will be changing to a white cathode. Using black tubing in the loop since my build is mainly black with blue highligting


----------



## Ceadderman

Oooh nice. Can't wait to see that lit up and running in your system brodie.









~Ceadder


----------



## Raparker

So heres the beast with clear caps lit up (not attatched yet)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> So heres the beast with clear caps lit up (not attatched yet)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












~Ceadder


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> So heres the beast with clear caps lit up (not attatched yet)


beautiful!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I keep meaning to post a pic of my dual bay res, oh well. I get added to this list one day. Way till you see what Alex and I have planned up for a new reservoir type.

*IT.
Will.
Blow.
Your.
MIND!*


----------



## Raparker

Would this be the beaker shaped?


----------



## Ceadderman

Hahahaha can't wait to see it Sushi.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Would this be the beaker shaped?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hahahaha can't wait to see it Sushi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder





Spoiler: You can wait for pictures or sneak a peek at the idea.



So far the idea is to reinforce a polycarbonate flask such as one of these.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23493&catid=650

Some of them already come stock with resealable lids and other such ideas. The problem here in lies that they would need to be stronger and have the correct I/O fill ports. Or the other idea is to mill a flask design out of a block of acrylic though it would leave a frosted look.

I am lettering Alex decide what and how best to go about the idea and I just give him general direction and ideas.


----------



## Raparker

Can anyone tell me the size of the cathode? Kinda broke mine and need a replacement


----------



## Raparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Can anyone tell me the size of the cathode? Kinda broke mine and need a replacement


hope you have a big case as itll be huge


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Can anyone tell me the size of the cathode? Kinda broke mine and need a replacement


I ordered a set of Bitspower 20cm white cathodes as a replacement. I have the 250mm Reservoir and tried the bulb from a 30cm cathode and that wouldn't fit. You can also order replacements from FrozenQ


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Can anyone tell me the size of the cathode? Kinda broke mine and need a replacement


It would help to know which reservoir and what size it is.









If it's a 250 you need an 8" CCL.

~Ceadder


----------



## Raparker

Could not find a single 8" cathode in uk... Ordered 2x 4" and ill run them upside down from each other... Should work otherwise ive got some 12" i can out nearby.

D-Day for the build is friday now all parts have come and ive swapped all ****ty cheap fittings for bitspower and built myself an awesome drain system. Should look good!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Could not find a single 8" cathode in uk... Ordered 2x 4" and ill run them upside down from each other... Should work otherwise ive got some 12" i can out nearby.
> 
> D-Day for the build is friday now all parts have come and ive swapped all ****ty cheap fittings for bitspower and built myself an awesome drain system. Should look good!


Yeah don't expect that to work. You can run one 4" but I'd be willing to bet if you ran them stacked that the upper one would damage the cables powering the lower one. So I wouldn't even try that route.

Have you tried eBay? I'm pretty sure they've had 8" cats. Or you can get a couple Resisted LED pigtails and cobble something together long enough to find one of the correct length. A 12" would actually be 11" and I'm pretty sure it would be sticking out of the port and be subject to unintentional damage. CCLs' are tricky little things.









~Ceadder


----------



## Raparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah don't expect that to work. You can run one 4" but I'd be willing to bet if you ran them stacked that the upper one would damage the cables powering the lower one. So I wouldn't even try that route.
> Have you tried eBay? I'm pretty sure they've had 8" cats. Or you can get a couple Resisted LED pigtails and cobble something together long enough to find one of the correct length. A 12" would actually be 11" and I'm pretty sure it would be sticking out of the port and be subject to unintentional damage. CCLs' are tricky little things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Would be upside down from
Each other so cables shouldnt touch. Each cable will come out different sides


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah don't expect that to work. You can run one 4" but I'd be willing to bet if you ran them stacked that the upper one would damage the cables powering the lower one. So I wouldn't even try that route.
> Have you tried eBay? I'm pretty sure they've had 8" cats. Or you can get a couple Resisted LED pigtails and cobble something together long enough to find one of the correct length. A 12" would actually be 11" and I'm pretty sure it would be sticking out of the port and be subject to unintentional damage. CCLs' are tricky little things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would be upside down from
> Each other so cables shouldnt touch. Each cable will come out different sides
Click to expand...

???







???

Which Res do you have Mate?









Cause I have the 250 Helix and it's only got one access point do you have one of the ones with the ports on the sides of the caps? I should think that there would only be one access port on it like on my Helix.









~Ceadder


----------



## Raparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ???
> Which Res do you have Mate?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cause I have the 250 Helix and it's only got one access point do you have one of the ones with the ports on the sides of the caps? I should think that there would only be one access port on it like on my Helix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


See last page, its a custom 250mm helix with clear frosted caps has dual entry. So i should allow me to do this. The plan is to use electrical tape between the 2 to stop the bulbs from touching.


----------



## feniks

^he's right the V2 (revision 2) of Liquid Fusion has opening for cathode tube on both ends. I see no problem with running 2x 4'' cathodes if wires are router via opposite openings.


----------



## Ceadderman

Aha okay, makes sense now. Custom Caps custom access. Gotcha. Thank you guys for the Clarification. I was startin to think I was havin an acid flashback.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Raparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Aha okay, makes sense now. Custom Caps custom access. Gotcha. Thank you guys for the Clarification. I was startin to think I was havin an acid flashback.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> ~Ceadder


Haha. Fitted the dual 4" seems to work well suprisingly. Stuck some velcro in there so it blocks it coming out (just like alex does) cab see slightly where the 2 join due to a white plastic tip but ive now positioned it behind one of the helixes. Looking forward to finishing the build on fri


----------



## brodieboy143

I actually managed to get my reservoir open last night, tried for ages with my bare hands and tried with fittings screwed in but to no avail. Finally managed to get it apart by putting 2 angle compression fittings in, slotting a screw driver between them and using that as a lever (must have loosened it in the meantime as this hadn't worked before).

Either way, I thought I'd take a quick picture comparing the stock UV bulb to the white 20cm replacement I bought:



As you can see, the bulb sizes line up quite well and it was quite a good fit once installed in the reservoir.

On a side note, Highly recommend something like a vice for getting the cathode bulb out of its stock tubing. I tried cracking the plastic on one by hitting it with the side of a screw driver, but this puts too much stress on the bulb and I ended up breaking one. I tried a pair of pliers to crush the tube, but there's no guarantee you can stop when the plastic cracks and prevent crushing the bulb too. A small bench vice worked wonders as I was able to crack the plastic enough to break it while putting no stress on the bulb itself. All I had to do then was remove the plug, slide the wires through the small hole in the end, and re-attach it.


----------



## Raparker

My rig goes in tomorrow and the plan is to use a male to male 1/4 fitting to mount it directly to the pump anyone had experience with this before?


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Nope...



G1/4 Male/Male connector. Thread it in til it stops +1/4 turn into the Res. Possibly a little more depending on the thickness oRing. Then take the whole thing line it up and screw it into the pump til it's firmly seated. Apologies for the darkness of the 2nd pic. Photobucket hasn't caught up yet.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> I actually managed to get my reservoir open last night, tried for ages with my bare hands and tried with fittings screwed in but to no avail. Finally managed to get it apart by putting 2 angle compression fittings in, slotting a screw driver between them and using that as a lever (must have loosened it in the meantime as this hadn't worked before).
> 
> Either way, I thought I'd take a quick picture comparing the stock UV bulb to the white 20cm replacement I bought:
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, the bulb sizes line up quite well and it was quite a good fit once installed in the reservoir.
> 
> On a side note, Highly recommend something like a vice for getting the cathode bulb out of its stock tubing. I tried cracking the plastic on one by hitting it with the side of a screw driver, but this puts too much stress on the bulb and I ended up breaking one. I tried a pair of pliers to crush the tube, but there's no guarantee you can stop when the plastic cracks and prevent crushing the bulb too. A small bench vice worked wonders as I was able to crack the plastic enough to break it while putting no stress on the bulb itself. All I had to do then was remove the plug, slide the wires through the small hole in the end, and re-attach it.


Next time try using thick rubber bands wrapped around the cap. The bands serve as a place to grip the cap. Then put another around the tube and twist. Come apart fairly easily when you have something to grip twisting in opposite directions. I plan to invest in a couple of rubber strap filter wrenches later on for client builds but for my own personal Reservoir the rubber bands work just fine.









Also I recommend using a Dremel, splittin the cable cape first into four sections parallel to the tube and while in a vice apply some pressure to the corner of the cap so that it spreads outward from the tube as much as possible without crushing the bulb to loosen the bond. Then using that pair of pliers one jaw gets a purchase on the tube side and the other gets purchase on the cable side and slowly and gently wiggle it back and forth until it snaps away. Once you get 3 of them off you should be able to remove the bulb without issue. Obviously you have to be gentle with the bulb. That's how I intend to do it anyway. I'll have to put together a tutorial when I attempt it.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## eskamobob1

does anyone in here have a pic of one of their reses with a UV fluid in it (im thinking of UV blue/clear from mayhem, but dont know if it will look epic or terrible)


----------



## Raparker

Leak testing begins... All good so far and tubing looks a clean layout


----------



## Raparker

heres some pics of the fiinal build


----------



## Raparker

Odd question but is it normal for the tubing to become hot? I just opened the case and ot a face full of warm air come out of the case. My gpu arent going over 60c which is good (i hope) but my cpu is hitting loads of 65c and around 45c idle... Doesnt seem right. Also the rads feel warm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Odd question but is it normal for the tubing to become hot? I just opened the case and ot a face full of warm air come out of the case. My gpu arent going over 60c which is good (i hope) but my cpu is hitting loads of 65c and around 45c idle... Doesnt seem right. Also the rads feel warm.


Did you remove the protective film from your CPU block before you mounted it to the CPU?









Are your Radiator fans running?









Is your pump running properly?









I would look at one of these and check to make sure they're all positive results except for the CPU block. Hope that you did remove the protective liner.









If all of these are for the best, then I would have to think that you have something in your loop slowing the flow rate to a crawl. If you had your Res Apart at all did you make sure that the disc with the dual openings for the dual connections were lined up properly? I didn't the first time I put mine back together and it caused the flow to be a crawl. Good thing I found it during Leakdown testing. So that's probably the first place you might look.









~Ceadder


----------



## Raparker

Didnt have an exhaust fan so installed one. Temps dropped 10c. Also think a fan for my 200mm rad is faulty but cant get to it so ill put one on the front to push air in. Should hopefully make a difference. Is 60c at load for gtx 580 bad?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Didnt have an exhaust fan so installed one. Temps dropped 10c. Also think a fan for my 200mm rad is faulty but cant get to it so ill put one on the front to push air in. Should hopefully make a difference. Is 60c at load for gtx 580 bad?


Nope... worry when it starts hitting around mid 80c. Your GPU should be fine at 60c but I have an air cooled 6870 for the time being until I get the other card I have under water and put the one I'm running under wated afterward.









~Ceadder


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Didnt have an exhaust fan so installed one. Temps dropped 10c. Also think a fan for my 200mm rad is faulty but cant get to it so ill put one on the front to push air in. Should hopefully make a difference. Is 60c at load for gtx 580 bad?


While not bad, it's not really good if you have them watercooled. What size rad are you running and how many cards do you have connected to that rad? I have a 60mm 360 and my 1 crazy overclocked 570 doesn't break 40.


----------



## Raparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> While not bad, it's not really good if you have them watercooled. What size rad are you running and how many cards do you have connected to that rad? I have a 60mm 360 and my 1 crazy overclocked 570 doesn't break 40.


Dual gtx 580, and ive got a 240mm and a 200mm rad but i think the 200mm fan isnt working as it should.

Misread the question. The 580's are attatched to the 240mm


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Didnt have an exhaust fan so installed one. Temps dropped 10c. Also think a fan for my 200mm rad is faulty but cant get to it so ill put one on the front to push air in. Should hopefully make a difference. Is 60c at load for gtx 580 bad?
> 
> 
> 
> While not bad, it's not really good if you have them watercooled. What size rad are you running and how many cards do you have connected to that rad? I have a 60mm 360 and my 1 crazy overclocked 570 doesn't break 40.
Click to expand...

Water cooling doesn't luculently mean great temps. I've actually gotten better temps on air before. Water cooling is more of a aesthetics thing now imo. That is unless you know what your doing have high quality parts.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> While not bad, it's not really good if you have them watercooled. What size rad are you running and how many cards do you have connected to that rad? I have a 60mm 360 and my 1 crazy overclocked 570 doesn't break 40.
> 
> 
> 
> Dual gtx 580, and ive got a 240mm and a 200mm rad but i think the 200mm fan isnt working as it should.
> 
> Misread the question. The 580's are attatched to the 240mm
Click to expand...

580 push out a lot of heat. What is the order of your loop and how many fans do you have assigned to what duty. Also what is the FPI of the rad, blocks used, and fan types. (brand, etc)

Edit. From the look of the first picture it looks like you have no fans at all.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Water cooling doesn't luculently mean great temps. I've actually gotten better temps on air before. Water cooling is more of a aesthetics thing now imo. That is unless you know what your doing have high quality parts.


fully agree with this... the main advantage of WCing at this point is same temps with less noise... that is unless you get massive rads with extremely high flow rates (in witch case it will be much better temps)


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Water cooling doesn't luculently mean great temps. I've actually gotten better temps on air before. Water cooling is more of a aesthetics thing now imo. That is unless you know what your doing have high quality parts.
> 
> 
> 
> fully agree with this... the main advantage of WCing at this point is same temps with less noise... that is unless you get massive rads with extremely high flow rates (in witch case it will be much better temps)
Click to expand...

Meh.. You can't ever get past room temperature and chances are most people will never get within 10 centigrade of ambient temps.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Meh.. You can't ever get past room temperature and chances are most people will never get within 10 centigrade of ambient temps.


lol... did a build once that got to 5C above ambient @ load (different rad between every block and rad> two GPUs in paralel> rad> 2 GPUs in paralel and one crazy flow rate)... i was prity proud


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Meh.. You can't ever get past room temperature and chances are most people will never get within 10 centigrade of ambient temps.
> 
> 
> 
> lol... did a build once that got to 5C above ambient @ load (different rad between every block and rad> two GPUs in paralel> rad> 2 GPUs in paralel and one crazy flow rate)... i was prity proud
Click to expand...

lol. I wish I had money to finish my build. I was looking into sponsorships but I am still a ways over. I have like 3k or 3.5k invested into this PC and I am only a few hundred away!!! *Shakes fist in the air*


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> lol. I wish I had money to finish my build. I was looking into sponsorships but I am still a ways over. I have like 3k or 3.5k invested into this PC and I am only a few hundred away!!! *Shakes fist in the air*


lol... post a build log then... id like to see how it come together







... and that last build was for a client that, "didn't care about the funds needed"... it was an SR-X build with best CPUs i could find and 4x Quadro cards with custom WC blocks... by far one of the most fun builds i have ever done (and also one of the most difficult as well)


----------



## Raparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> 580 push out a lot of heat. What is the order of your loop and how many fans do you have assigned to what duty. Also what is the FPI of the rad, blocks used, and fan types. (brand, etc)
> Edit. From the look of the first picture it looks like you have no fans at all.


goes res-pump-200mm rad-cpu-240mm rad -gpu-gpu-res

and they are concealed at the top of the case (corsair 600t has a little tab thing that lifts up) containing 2x XIGMATEK XLF-F1253

and a 200m version for the front rad
no space for a pull push on the top due to the ram etc so im going to be placing 3x 80mm fans along the bottem of the rad aswell to help air flow and another 200mm fan inside the case on the 200mm.


----------



## Padrone56

Man sucks living in South Africa, but I am so buying a reservoir, as soon as I'm able to pay for the shipping


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> lol. I wish I had money to finish my build. I was looking into sponsorships but I am still a ways over. I have like 3k or 3.5k invested into this PC and I am only a few hundred away!!! *Shakes fist in the air*
> 
> 
> 
> lol... post a build log then... id like to see how it come together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and that last build was for a client that, "didn't care about the funds needed"... it was an SR-X build with best CPUs i could find and 4x Quadro cards with custom WC blocks... by far one of the most fun builds i have ever done (and also one of the most difficult as well)
Click to expand...

Sounds like it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> 580 push out a lot of heat. What is the order of your loop and how many fans do you have assigned to what duty. Also what is the FPI of the rad, blocks used, and fan types. (brand, etc)
> Edit. From the look of the first picture it looks like you have no fans at all.
> 
> 
> 
> goes res-pump-200mm rad-cpu-240mm rad -gpu-gpu-res
> 
> and they are concealed at the top of the case (corsair 600t has a little tab thing that lifts up) containing 2x XIGMATEK XLF-F1253
> 
> and a 200m version for the front rad
> no space for a pull push on the top due to the ram etc so im going to be placing 3x 80mm fans along the bottem of the rad aswell to help air flow and another 200mm fan inside the case on the 200mm.
Click to expand...

Always go rad to res. Other wise your water will start heating up in the reservoir, etc. Also I'm not sure the effects of hot water on a pump.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> lol. I wish I had money to finish my build. I was looking into sponsorships but I am still a ways over. I have like 3k or 3.5k invested into this PC and I am only a few hundred away!!! *Shakes fist in the air*
> 
> 
> 
> lol... post a build log then... id like to see how it come together
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... and that last build was for a client that, "didn't care about the funds needed"... it was an SR-X build with best CPUs i could find and 4x Quadro cards with custom WC blocks... by far one of the most fun builds i have ever done (and also one of the most difficult as well)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sounds like it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> 580 push out a lot of heat. What is the order of your loop and how many fans do you have assigned to what duty. Also what is the FPI of the rad, blocks used, and fan types. (brand, etc)
> Edit. From the look of the first picture it looks like you have no fans at all.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> goes res-pump-200mm rad-cpu-240mm rad -gpu-gpu-res
> 
> and they are concealed at the top of the case (corsair 600t has a little tab thing that lifts up) containing 2x XIGMATEK XLF-F1253
> 
> and a 200m version for the front rad
> no space for a pull push on the top due to the ram etc so im going to be placing 3x 80mm fans along the bottem of the rad aswell to help air flow and another 200mm fan inside the case on the 200mm.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Always go rad to res. Other wise your water will start heating up in the reservoir, etc. Also I'm not sure the effects of hot water on a pump.
Click to expand...

I should think that this would go without saying but I always see someone who goes CPU to Res to Pump to Rad. Which works pretty much the same but my OCD would be threatening me with bodily injury if I did it that way. I doubt that it would make that much of a difference once the coolant temp evens out anyway but that little extra bit of heat in storage makes me cringe.









~Ceadder


----------



## Raparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I should think that this would go without saying but I always see someone who goes CPU to Res to Pump to Rad. Which works pretty much the same but my OCD would be threatening me with bodily injury if I did it that way. I doubt that it would make that much of a difference once the coolant temp evens out anyway but that little extra bit of heat in storage makes me cringe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


no way can i go from sli gtx 580s at bottem point of case back up to a rad back to the res. would look such a mess


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I should think that this would go without saying but I always see someone who goes CPU to Res to Pump to Rad. Which works pretty much the same but my OCD would be threatening me with bodily injury if I did it that way. I doubt that it would make that much of a difference once the coolant temp evens out anyway but that little extra bit of heat in storage makes me cringe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no way can i go from sli gtx 580s at bottem point of case back up to a rad back to the res. would look such a mess
Click to expand...

You can easily change the loop order without looking messing. Think. Also it kind-of looks a mess as is. We can give you tips if you like.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Leak testing begins... All good so far and tubing looks a clean layout


this loop makes no sense. Res-pump-200mm rad-cpu block-240mm rad-2x 580s-res.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^ Actually I believe that the Res is supplying not the GPU. But you're right it's not making much sense because the Res isn't getting flow. It's more like a reserve than a Reservoir the way it's set up. It's what I will be doing when I get a Bay Res to add to my loop.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I should think that this would go without saying but I always see someone who goes CPU to Res to Pump to Rad. Which works pretty much the same but my OCD would be threatening me with bodily injury if I did it that way. I doubt that it would make that much of a difference once the coolant temp evens out anyway but that little extra bit of heat in storage makes me cringe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no way can i go from sli gtx 580s at bottem point of case back up to a rad back to the res. would look such a mess
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can easily change the loop order without looking messing. Think.
Click to expand...

This. When I finally get my cards under water, I'm going to add another Rad to the loop and clean it up. I don't yet know if I'm going to go with a 120mm Rad at the back and change from pump > FC Block to pump > Crossfire > 120 or if I'm going to go Pump > 180 > GPU in any case either way my pump supplies my blocks first not the blocks supplying the Res.









~Ceadder


----------



## Raparker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ Actually I believe that the Res is supplying not the GPU. But you're right it's not making much sense because the Res isn't getting flow. It's more like a reserve than a Reservoir the way it's set up. It's what I will be doing when I get a Bay Res to add to my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This. When I finally get my cards under water, I'm going to add another Rad to the loop and clean it up. I don't yet know if I'm going to go with a 120mm Rad at the back and change from pump > FC Block to pump > Crossfire > 120 or if I'm going to go Pump > 180 > GPU in any case either way my pump supplies my blocks first not the blocks supplying the Res.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


ok so worked out how i can get it working.
if i was to go res-pump-cpu-240mm rad- gpu-gpu-200mm rad-res would this be better? should be a case of changing 3 tubes

also the gpu go back into the res not the pump so it does get flow atm its just the pic shows otherwise


----------



## Raparker

ok so did as said above, getting temps of 50c for my i5 2500k and around 55c for my 2x gtx 580s whilst playing bf3 on ultra settings.
Is this high?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> ok so did as said above, getting temps of 50c for my i5 2500k and around 55c for my 2x gtx 580s whilst playing bf3 on ultra settings.
> Is this high?


Can't say. Don't know what your ambient is but since you're running GPU in that loop I would have to say no. CPU on its own, might be depending on what your ambient is.

If your ambient is in the low to mid 20s' then I'd say that it's a little high. But if your ambient is in the upper 20s' to low 30s' then no it's probably not high. I really can't say for sure cause I've never run that Intel CPU yet.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^ Actually I believe that the Res is supplying not the GPU. But you're right it's not making much sense because the Res isn't getting flow. It's more like a reserve than a Reservoir the way it's set up. It's what I will be doing when I get a Bay Res to add to my loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I'm selling my FrozenQ res so I can afford that Arex Speciar Number One Bring Great Honor To Your Famerry Reservoir.

I used it for about a month then took my pc apart due to bad mobo and now it's been sitting in the box lonely like... Ronery rike! Green double helix bay, black. Just in case... I must have that custom res!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raparker*
> 
> ok so did as said above, getting temps of 50c for my i5 2500k and around 55c for my 2x gtx 580s whilst playing bf3 on ultra settings.
> Is this high?
> 
> 
> 
> Can't say. Don't know what your ambient is but since you're running GPU in that loop I would have to say no. CPU on its own, might be depending on what your ambient is.
> 
> If your ambient is in the low to mid 20s' then I'd say that it's a little high. But if your ambient is in the upper 20s' to low 30s' then no it's probably not high. I really can't say for sure cause I've never run that Intel CPU yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...


----------



## Ceadderman

Ah man Sushi, I wish it had Red Helices cause it's either one with Red Helices or it's a White single bay so I can light it up with Red LEDs,









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ah man Sushi, I wish it had Red Helices cause it's either one with Red Helices or it's a White single bay so I can light it up with Red LEDs,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Poop... Oh well. I'll probably use it one day on my second PC. I just don't have the money for another GPU block or CPU block. Also tubing, fittings, another pump, rad. I guess I'm a long way off huh? lol


----------



## MoonageMin

Guys, since you have one of these things.

I have a quick question. I'm trying to build one of these into my loop.

I have been suggested the following from other people.

1) youre gonna have a big problem with having 2 reservoirs. The only way it will work is to put the output of the FrozenQ above the input of the bay res. Otherwise you wont have any flow and the FrozenQ will flood. And I dont think theres enough space for the FrozenQ because it will interfere with the rad and fans on the top.

2) No. You need the res before the pump,not after it.

3) You don't want to be pumping straight into a res, it will kill flow.

4) Hmm, it should be just fine as long as the Frozen Q is being filled from the top (Straight down from the bay res/pump). If the line is coming in the bottom of the Frozen Q air will become trapped and won't fill it without bleeding some away. Other than that looks like you should be set.

5) Why dont you ditch the bay and have the pump directly connected to the Frozen Q with a male to male connector?

This is the loop Idea I have at the moment










This is how my rig looks at the moment which I'm hoping to watercool









And this is the look I'm going for, or more like copying (Sorry, for ripping off someone's work, but it looks like the person has invested a lot of care and effort into designing this rig, and I love the look of it. I guess there wasn't much for me to change to the look of this as this was exactly the kind of design I had my idea on in the first place)









And this is my shopping list of parts for the watercooling, to give you better idea of what parts I'm working with here.

1x Corsair AX850 Individually Braided Modular Cables in Red (to give that extra red to the colour when plugged into the MoBo and the GPU and coming out the PSU)
1x XSPC 5.25" D5 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump Combo
1x XSPC RayStorm CPU Waterblock
1x XSPC Razor GTX670 Waterblock
1x XSPC Raxor GTX670 Backplate
1x XSPC EX 240mm Radiator
1x XSPC EX 360mm Xflow Radiator
1x FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Red Helix
10x XSPC Compression Fitting (Black Nickel)
2x 90 degrees compression fitting (Black Nickel)
3m Primochill Primoflex Red Tubing (3/8 ID - 5/8 OD)
2x Xigmatek Crystal Fan 140mm White LED (For the rear exhaust and one on the HDD cage which will be on low but more for the lighting)
2x Xigmatek Crystal Fan 140mm RedLED (For the 2 intake fans at the front)
5x Xigmatek Crystal Fan 120mm White LED (3 push fans for 360 rad up top & 2 for the pull fans for 240 radiators down bottom)
3x Xigmatek Crystal Fan 120mm Red LED (3 pull fans for the 260 rad up top running in push/pull config)
1x NZXT Sentry Mix 6 Channel Fan Controller
1x Phoya Thermal Paste Cleaner
1x Arctic Cooling MX4 Thermal Paste
Couple of fansplitters to plug into the fan controller
1x 5L distilled water (From Halfords)
1x Mayhems XT-1 Concentrate (Biocide and Anti-corosive)
3x Red LED bulb (1 for the Bay Reservoir up front, one for the CPU block, one for the GPU block)

So far what I have in my rig is,

Case: NZXT Switch 810 Matte Black
CPU: Intel i5 3570k
Mobo: Asus Maximus V formula
GPU: Asus GTX 670 DCII (Non top version, possibly adding another card in SLI in the future)
RAM: 16gb Corsair Vengeance 1600mhz in red (4 x 4gb)
PSU: Corsair AX850
SSD: Intel 520 series 120gb (I have my o/s and games on this one)
HDD: WD Caviar Black 1TB (For storage of photos, music etc)
DVD: LG GH24NS90.AUAR50B 24x Super Multi Internal DVD Rewriter
O/S: Microsoft Windows 8
Keyboard: Steelseries 6Gv2
Mouse: Steelseries Sensei

And if that doesn't work,

Then what about if i change my loop like this?










Thanks guys

Min x


----------



## Ceadderman

Why even go to that extreme? I'm gonna have two Reservoirs but the Bay one is strictly for show and as a sight glass into my loop to tell me when I need to add more coolant. That would be the only way I recommend two Reservoirs unless you have 2 separate loops needing coolant reserve or unless you have a system with a Res after each Reservoir with one of the more powerful pumps driving the whole thing.

I'm gonna set mine up like you have your Bay drawings only the inlet tube is strictly fill and the outlet tube is gonna feed directly into the System Reservoir which will not have any flow back to the first Reservoir.









Besides I don't think you have a reasonable idea how difficult it will be to get your drawing(either of them) to work properly in that limited amount of space. I don't even have a Reservoir in my 5.25 atm and I can tell you for a fact the amount of room to work is almost non existent. I've got small hands an I had a helluva time trying to plug my fans back in with the tubes in the way.I'm not trying to talk you out of it but I think you really need to get your hands in there working with Compression fittings before you jump into action putting your plan together. You better have a REALL large case. I've got a 932. There is no complaint of lack of room. The 5.25 bay however gets REEEEEEEAAAAALLY small the more kit you stuff into it.








~Ceadder


----------



## voldomazta

I was afraid how blue coolant + orange helix would turn out. I guess it turned out fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> I was afraid how blue coolant + orange helix would turn out. I guess it turned out fine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ick! Get rid of that air.
















~Ceadder


----------



## Lazy Bear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> this loop makes no sense. Res-pump-200mm rad-cpu block-240mm rad-2x 580s-res.


What do you mean? There is no required order of any loop passed the reservoir coming before the pump. It looks fine to me, what doesn't make sense about it?


----------



## solar0987

IM not on the owner list


----------



## Lazy Bear

Here's mine.









Can I join?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> 
> 
> IM not on the owner list


That gpu cooling design gives me a headache.







How does it cool the GPU if it's split using a Y fitting? "Path of least resistance."


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> That gpu cooling design gives me a headache.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does it cool the GPU if it's split using a Y fitting? "Path of least resistance."


Looks to me like the leftmost barb is a 45 degree fitting and the rightmost one is just a straight barb, the tubes just overlap in the photo and it looks like a Y fitting from the angle it was taken


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Looks to me like the leftmost barb is a 45 degree fitting and the rightmost one is just a straight barb, the tubes just overlap in the photo and it looks like a Y fitting from the angle it was taken


this is what it apears to be to me ass well... that said, someone should go yell at EK for making blocks with threads only on one side


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Looks to me like the leftmost barb is a 45 degree fitting and the rightmost one is just a straight barb, the tubes just overlap in the photo and it looks like a Y fitting from the angle it was taken
> 
> 
> 
> this is what it apears to be to me ass well... that said, someone should go yell at EK for making blocks with threads only on one side
Click to expand...

I really wouldn't yell at them for that considering that their blocks are the lowest profile block on the market. Their new ones now have a single adapter that allow for better connection at the adapter than the original single adaper that were available for their earlier versions.









If you're gonna yell at EK, yell at em for something worth the effort. Like their ugly azz CSQ design.









~Ceadder


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I really wouldn't yell at them for that considering that their blocks are the lowest profile block on the market. Their new ones now have a single adapter that allow for better connection at the adapter than the original single adaper that were available for their earlier versions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're gonna yell at EK, yell at em for something worth the effort. Like their ugly azz CSQ design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


lol... except for the weid circles i realy like their CSQ blocks... im just a bit bitter cause i had this awsome idea planned out with crystal links between the GPUs using the EK DC II 7970 blocks... but everything changed when i realized they only had prts on one side







... lol... idk... im majory a fan of ports on both sides cause with EKs design prity much your only option is to use their SLI connectors if you use more then one card in parallel... i realy like teh CSQ connectors actually


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I really wouldn't yell at them for that considering that their blocks are the lowest profile block on the market. Their new ones now have a single adapter that allow for better connection at the adapter than the original single adaper that were available for their earlier versions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're gonna yell at EK, yell at em for something worth the effort. Like their ugly azz CSQ design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol... except for the weid circles i realy like their CSQ blocks... im just a bit bitter cause i had this awsome idea planned out with crystal links between the GPUs using the EK DC II 7970 blocks... but everything changed when i realized they only had prts on one side
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... lol... idk... im majory a fan of ports on both sides cause with EKs design prity much your only option is to use their SLI connectors if you use more then one card in parallel... i realy like teh CSQ connectors actually
Click to expand...

Yeah I could deal with their SLI connectors if they didn't have the bleedin Crop Circles on them. Won't even match my Reservoir which really chaffs my hide. We don't have crop circles on our Frozen Q reservoirs why would we want them on our blocks.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I see what you guys meant in that pic now. It looks odd from my phone.

As for blocks I really like my Swiftech Komodo blocks except for the lighting is red and I need to change it to green.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> That gpu cooling design gives me a headache.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does it cool the GPU if it's split using a Y fitting? "Path of least resistance."


No y fitting just a 90 and a 45
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brodieboy143*
> 
> Looks to me like the leftmost barb is a 45 degree fitting and the rightmost one is just a straight barb, the tubes just overlap in the photo and it looks like a Y fitting from the angle it was taken


theres a 90 first then a 45 on the left side

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> this is what it apears to be to me ass well... that said, someone should go yell at EK for making blocks with threads only on one side


Totally agree!


----------



## brodieboy143

Sometimes I feel like the only one that likes some of the new EK designs. I think the Supremacy full nickel looks great, and more so when you see it in person. Each to their own I suppose.

Having said that, aside from CPU blocks, not much of their other stuff appeals to me. I think the design could work if done right, it's just hard to fit in with most people's systems.


----------



## kanaks

Hello there! I am the proud owner of one FrozenQ Liquid Fusion V Series 160mm - Blue. It is the one eyecandy to rule them all, and seems well build as well







its going to be a perfect match for his new home, a Corsair 600t SE.



Can i join the club? Thanks!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

No... Just kidding! Climb aboard the water is nice.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> No... Just kidding! Climb aboard the water is nice.










its going to be my first WC build so i expect some turbulence ahead.


----------



## brodieboy143

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its going to be my first WC build so i expect some turbulence ahead.


Me too, just have to wait until all these folding events are over before I can get my feet wet


----------



## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> Not sure if this is allowed here but I have an extra brand new 250ml UV-blue helix res. Anyone care to take it off my hands? I could sell it for a few bucks less than I got it for. It turned out the blue didn't pan out for me so I had to order another one.


No not allowed until you get at least 35 reps. Look under Marketplace Rules, it is done this way to prevent people from just joining up with the sole intent to sell items. Try later on. LOL


----------



## yutzybrian

Just ordered 250mm with Blood Red/Black dual helix. Emailing to check about getting a red cathode instead of UV also.


----------



## mombasa

I love frozenq pc mods, and have been a big fan of Alex's work for many years. I own a couple of their uv reservoirs.

I recently purchased a new 400mm res with extra iced caps, guess what the guy doing my caps forgot to tread the hole, now I am left with a hole thats open and can't fit my G1/4 fitting for tubing...

Can you guys suggest me something, will highly appreciate any feedback.

I am alitte disappointed considering I waited 2 weeks for it to be mailed, and another 2 weeks for it to arrive.


----------



## eskamobob1

Just go to your local hardware store and get a tap set so you can thread the hole yourself... Also, I'm sure if you send Alex an email, he will help you out as well


----------



## yutzybrian

I'd say if you don't need it right this moment just drop Alex an email and wait for him to sen ya a new cap. If you do need it right now then get the tap set, make it usable, and drop Alex an email.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> I was afraid how blue coolant + orange helix would turn out. I guess it turned out fine.


Wow I really dig that. Makes me wonder what other colors would look good together


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Wow I really dig that. Makes me wonder what other colors would look good together


agreed


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mombasa*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love frozenq pc mods, and have been a big fan of Alex's work for many years. I own a couple of their uv reservoirs.
> 
> I recently purchased a new 400mm res with extra iced caps, guess what the guy doing my caps forgot to tread the hole, now I am left with a hole thats open and can't fit my G1/4 fitting for tubing...
> 
> Can you guys suggest me something, will highly appreciate any feedback.
> 
> I am alitte disappointed considering I waited 2 weeks for it to be mailed, and another 2 weeks for it to arrive.


Stuff happens. My bay res leaked out the front so I had to tighten the screws. Works now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Just go to your local hardware store and get a tap set so you can thread the hole yourself... Also, I'm sure if you send Alex an email, he will help you out as well


This.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> I'd say if you don't need it right this moment just drop Alex an email and wait for him to sen ya a new cap. If you do need it right now then get the tap set, make it usable, and drop Alex an email.


This too.

It is a pc modding website. Mod it up!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So I have a secret.. Alex is working or will be soon working in my new reservoir. If the OCN community takes to it he might have a new line up of reservoirs to show off....


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I have a secret.. Alex is working or will be soon working in my new reservoir. If the OCN community takes to it he might have a new line up of reservoirs to show off....


WHAT?! you cant just tease us like that







... whats the basic design and concept?


----------



## goodtobeking

A "glass beaker" right??


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I have a secret.. Alex is working or will be soon working in my new reservoir. If the OCN community takes to it he might have a new line up of reservoirs to show off....
> 
> 
> 
> WHAT?! you cant just tease us like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... whats the basic design and concept?
Click to expand...









MUAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> A "glass beaker" right??










You got it.

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23493&catid=650


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You got it.
> http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23493&catid=650


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










As soon as I saw the Ace I knew...


----------



## mombasa

Please see and assist http://www.overclock.net/t/1333338/frozenq-400mm-res-ccfl-bust-or-hiding#post_18729666


----------



## foreign03

Hey wondering if someone can help me. I live in Australia and saw the liquid fusion 250mm and had to have one as they look awesome. I have ordered one from America but I'm a little confused. As I've read I need a transformer to power the uv cathode. Is this correct as I've been reading into it and cannot find a thing about it. Very new to this product and can't call anyone locally as they don't sell it in Australia. Any help would be appreciated cheers.


----------



## grimmy

ive had my res since the summer and its perfect still


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foreign03*
> 
> Hey wondering if someone can help me. I live in Australia and saw the liquid fusion 250mm and had to have one as they look awesome. I have ordered one from America but I'm a little confused. As I've read I need a transformer to power the uv cathode. Is this correct as I've been reading into it and cannot find a thing about it. Very new to this product and can't call anyone locally as they don't sell it in Australia. Any help would be appreciated cheers.


You just need a regular 12v cold cathode inverter.

Edit: Here's an example http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16707/lit-312/G-Vans_Cold_Cathode_Replacement_2-Port_Inverter_Cable_-_Black.html

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> ive had my res since the summer and its perfect still
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


A wild Haunter has appeared!!


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> ive had my res since the summer and its perfect still


log required!


----------



## goodtobeking

Here is his log crazy amazing looking build. Turned out perfect if you ask me


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Here is his log crazy amazing looking build. Turned out perfect if you ask me


ty


----------



## grimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Here is his log crazy amazing looking build. Turned out perfect if you ask me


thanks man that means alot


----------



## mombasa

Hi, I just built my system with two FrozenQ res

1. Liquid Fusion V Series UV Blue 250mm With Clear caps and side ports

2. Liquid Fusion V Series UV Blue 400mm With Clear caps and side ports


----------



## NinjaSushi2

@ mombasa Sexy.

So there Alex... do you have any sneak peak pics for us on the special res?...


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Alex PMd me a tease saying he was going to post pictures but he also said his ship has been hell lately. I don't mind waiting as I still have one final left Monday. THEN NO MORE WAITING! lol


----------



## Bart

Oh man, I wish I had read this thread before I bought mine! FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU!!! I got plain ugly black caps that damn near cut my finger off (sharp little bugger). If I had known you could get clear caps with side holes, I would have done that!! Arrrrrrghh, I want to kick myself in the balls for the 10th time during this build!!

I don't have mine installed yet since I have ZERO idea how to mount it, but I had to take pics during leak testing. So sexy!

No water in it, just light:


Leak testing:


----------



## NinjaSushi2

You can always have Alex build you two clear caps with side ports. Alex! You still alive out there bro? You are only a few hours away and I might have to assemble a search team.

Cheddar! ASSEMBLE!!! lol


----------



## Bart

I have 2 fluorescent frosted red ones sitting in a cart on his site right now! I'd probably get raped by duty since I'm Canadian though. I thought we were supposed to be duty free for American made goods because of this "free trade" thing, but apparently that's a load of horse ****, LOL! The clips that came with my res are pretty flimsy too, one's already broken.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hmm PM Alex regarding the clip issue. As for free trade.. er who knows right!? Also I see the Shiraz in that pic, I'm a Merlot fan myself.


----------



## Bart

That was my distilled water bottle.







Unfortunately, I didn't realize I could buy directly from Alex. Otherwise I would have, so I could have an older model too, who knows. I had to order a GPU block that was rather hard to find from the USA (PerformancePCs). I bought the res from them since I figured what the hell, I'm gonna get soaked on duty anyway, so might as well pick up a few pieces.









Those caps are SHARP too. I got a nice paper cut when taking that sucker apart. My blood red UV helix got christened in actual blood!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

This odd. PM Alex is the best course of action. I'm sure we could advise you better than I though keep in mind he is swamped atm. You could always sand down the edges.


----------



## Bart

Oh I learned the hard way just to use gloves.








I have a set of thin rubber mechanic-type gloves that are perfect for stuff like that. I won't bug Alex since he's buried. Love to get a break on some better clips / tops though! This water cooling stuff ain't cheap! Are they still shipping stuff out from the website fairly quick? If they have the caps in stock, that would make this build a lot easier.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I dunno. I paid Alex for my super-secret customer reservoir what seems like a few weeks ago. But I ain't one of those buggers... I only PM five times a day and call twice.










Just kidding! Yeah I forgot what he said. Something about his shop is all in disarray, etc. Who knows; none of my business as long as my product exceeds my expectations and arrives in one piece. Where is my buddy Cheddar btw?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Where is my buddy Cheddar btw?


I'm on Holiday vacay in Kansas. Don't know when I will be getting back. I'm here for a few months. Having a ball, No snow yet though. It's snowed twice at home since I've been here.









System is currently down for CPU warranty service so it's sitting under a sheet. Frozen Q Reservoir was kinda fogged up but I figger that the condensation will collect at the bottom and the loop will need to be flushed when I finally get back and get my system up and running with the new CPU.









Gonna start socking money away for some upgrades. I can get myself a great new monitor for ~$600 for a 50" LED monitor. Can't wait to get one an put it on the wall behind my work table. Who needs eyefiniti when you have a 50" 120hz monitor to play with.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Eyefinity gives a wider view. That LED monitor will just make crap look bigger but wont give you a wider FOV. Kansas eh? I was stationed at Ft. Riley for a number of years; I miss Kansas sometimes. I'm still waiting on Alex but I think he was abducted by aliens. I am half tempted to call the shop just to see how he is doing over there.. lol!

Ceadderman + Sushi







= Alex


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Eyefinity gives a wider view. That LED monitor will just make crap look bigger but wont give you a wider FOV. Kansas eh? I was stationed at Ft. Riley for a number of years; I miss Kansas sometimes. I'm still waiting on Alex but I think he was abducted by aliens. I am half tempted to call the shop just to see how he is doing over there.. lol!
> 
> Ceadderman + Sushi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> = Alex


Haha my ExStepDad was stationed @ Ft. Riley for training when I was a kid in '74. So I been here to Kansas before just in a different part of the State. Was cold as hell cause it was one of the Coldest winters on record that year, or so I been told.

Can't wait to see what Alex has in store for us with your consigned build request. Should be kool as truck lookin.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Yeah. Alex should be done building it by now. I am starting to wondering where he is hiding.


----------



## strong island 1

Does anyone know if the 400mm double helix res will fit in a STH10. The STH10 has 17.44in of space in the middle compartment. The res should be 15.7in. I know that it sounds like it will work but that sounds tight. Does it sound possible?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Does anyone know if the 400mm double helix res will fit in a STH10. The STH10 has 17.44in of space in the middle compartment. The res should be 15.7in. I know that it sounds like it will work but that sounds tight. Does it sound possible?


That case is huge. No worries man, just take a drimmel or hole saw and some U-channel. Then make a mod here or there if you need to.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> Does anyone know if the 400mm double helix res will fit in a STH10. The STH10 has 17.44in of space in the middle compartment. The res should be 15.7in. I know that it sounds like it will work but that sounds tight. Does it sound possible?


it should fit.. the STH middle compartmens is roughly 500mm i believe, and that res is only 450


----------



## strong island 1

ya I mean if it can't fit in the STH10 I can't imagine what case it would fit into.

I'm just worried with fittings and things that it might get tight. I just need something to fill up all the space. I guess I will order the one with the side ports.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> ya I mean if it can't fit in the STH10 I can't imagine what case it would fit into.
> I'm just worried with fittings and things that it might get tight. I just need something to fill up all the space. I guess I will order the one with the side ports.


lol... its probably a lot bigger then you are expecting







...and you should be fine if you use 90 degree fittings or use the side ports... either way i dont see a problem with it fitting


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> lol... its probably a lot bigger then you are expecting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...and you should be fine if you use 90 degree fittings or use the side ports... either way i dont see a problem with it fitting


I'm so excited. it just shipped today. I'm thinking of getting the 400mm version with black and white.

I was also thinking of doing 2 - 250mm versions. One white and one black. I'm just afraid the case is going to look really empty. I got the xxl window so I need to fill it up. I think 2 - 250mm would look really cool.


----------



## voldomazta

How hard is it for you guys to take the caps off? Mine feels like it's glued on.


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> How hard is it for you guys to take the caps off? Mine feels like it's glued on.


VERY tough! Be careful, the acetal caps can be sharp around the edges. After cutting my finger open, I ended up using rubber mechanic gloves to get the damn thing off. VERY hard to get the cap moving at first.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> How hard is it for you guys to take the caps off? Mine feels like it's glued on.


Alex is revising that issue.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> How hard is it for you guys to take the caps off? Mine feels like it's glued on.
> 
> 
> 
> Alex is revising addressing that issue.
Click to expand...

Not to be a grammar nazi but, fixed.









~Ceadder


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *strong island 1*
> 
> I'm so excited. it just shipped today. I'm thinking of getting the 400mm version with black and white.
> I was also thinking of doing 2 - 250mm versions. One white and one black. I'm just afraid the case is going to look really empty. I got the xxl window so I need to fill it up. I think 2 - 250mm would look really cool.


I would post in the CL forums to make sure 2x 250s will fit... If they do, it will be very close... I'm actualy doing dual loops in my build (each a different color) and had to go with 150mm reses cause 2x 250 wok fit in an MH10
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not to be a grammar nazi but, fixed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Lol


----------



## strong island 1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> I would post in the CL forums to make sure 2x 250s will fit... If they do, it will be very close... I'm actualy doing dual loops in my build (each a different color) and had to go with 150mm reses cause 2x 250 wok fit in an MH10
> Lol


Cool thanks for the advice. I'm still unsure of what res to get. Right now I have the small one that fits on the top of the mcp35x. I guess i will just use that until I can look at the case in person and decide and measure.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Thank you for that. I wrote that late at night laying in bed and falling asleep.


----------



## Neo_182

A few old pics...


And a few recent ones...


And finally the giant flipping mess of cables that i get to stare at almost everyday...


I'm eventually going to make up my mind but i'd like to get either the LE 'warp core' res or the dual bay res for my Stryker rig.
That'll come probably later this year. =)

Cheers ladies!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I like that color green. Mayhems?

Anyone know where the heck Alex is? I haven't heard from the guy in weeks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I like that color green. Mayhems?
> 
> Anyone know where the heck Alex is? I haven't heard from the guy in weeks.


It is the Holiday season, I'm sure he's probably taking this time to be with his family.









~Ceadder


----------



## Neo_182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I like that color green. Mayhems?
> Anyone know where the heck Alex is? I haven't heard from the guy in weeks.


Nay. Just distilled water with feser dyes.

UV Green and UV Purple (Although in the yellow helix res it looks pink.)


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Ceadderman: one can only hope. Problem is, as patient as I am (ask Dwood lol), I would like an update on my reservoir. He said he'd post pics soon but then disappeared. THE SUSPENSE IS KILLING ME! lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Ceadderman: one can only hope. Problem is, as patient as I am (ask Dwood lol), I would like an update on my reservoir. He said he'd post pics soon but then disappeared. THE SUSPENSE IS KILLING ME! lol


I feel ya bro. Just drop a jigger of brandy into your egg nog an enjoy the holiday my friend. It's not yet the end of the world.


















~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

BUT THE SUSPENSE!!! lol jk I still have too much work to do on my PC to actually worry about the res yet. Still have to order a few more parts, sleeve the psu, take more pictures, make a work log finally. Been too busy with D3.


----------



## Rolandooo

Now to get it mounted


----------



## foreign03

Just got my res in the mail  took a few weeks to get it to Australia but can't wait to put this bad boy into my system.


----------



## SinX7

Why are they sooooo expensive? :< I wanna get one but man.

They look great and everything but it cost too much lol . Well at least for me.


----------



## foreign03

Most reservoirs are about the same price $120 so for me once I saw it I I had to buy it.


----------



## sticks435

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foreign03*
> 
> 
> Just got my res in the mail  took a few weeks to get it to Australia but can't wait to put this bad boy into my system.


Damn, I wish I had known you could get metal/gunmetal looking caps. Would have looked sweet with my Gunmetal and blue Switch build.


----------



## foreign03

T
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sticks435*
> 
> Damn, I wish I had known you could get metal/gunmetal looking caps. Would have looked sweet with my Gunmetal and blue Switch build.
> They are still black underneath its a cap that slides over it with a gromet not too late to buy em seperate. Ice caps they are called $12 for a pair. You wouldn't even have to take the res out should be able to slide them on and your good to go


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Ooooh. My reservoir is almost done.


----------



## Bart

Hey here's a question about this reservoir: do you have to use the 2 holes on the bottom cap as inlet / outlet? Or can run water end-to-end by using the drain hole as an outlet? Does that matter?


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Hey here's a question about this reservoir: do you have to use the 2 holes on the bottom cap as inlet / outlet? Or can run water end-to-end by using the drain hole as an outlet? Does that matter?


Doesn't matter. You can set it up however you want. All the holes are G1/4" thread


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> Doesn't matter. You can set it up however you want. All the holes are G1/4" thread


Cool, thanks! I knew about the thread sizing, but I wasn't sure if the design of the helix insert dictated only one proper way for the flow to go.


----------



## Valgaur

https://frozenqshop.com/index.php/products/reservoirs/novacore.html

I know it's been a while since I've been on here.... but looking back into WC stuff for this summer.... a 6 rad build idea is forming involving multiple 80mm rads... overkill I know but hey it's OCN and modding will be taking place as well!









But is this the new res? or am I behind?


----------



## goodtobeking

Hard to tell in that picture. BUt I did see one before that had what looked like LED lights that lit up the center. Cant tell if this is the same on or not. Still looks cool even it that picture.

80mm radiators?? Unless thats a typo it doesnt sound to much like overkill lol. Now if its 80cm, now were talking


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Hard to tell in that picture. BUt I did see one before that had what looked like LED lights that lit up the center. Cant tell if this is the same on or not. Still looks cool even it that picture.
> 80mm radiators?? Unless thats a typo it doesnt sound to much like overkill lol. Now if its 80cm, now were talking


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16238/ex-rad-411/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Triple_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick.html?tl=g30c95s667

this rad up top and throw a 480 rad under my case with a pedestal.


----------



## eskamobob1

I think he was talking about thickness


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Somehow I knew you meant the Alphacool 480x86mm Monsta.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Somehow I knew you meant the Alphacool 480x86mm Monsta.


yup. I want my crap nice an cool.....


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> yup. I want my crap nice an cool.....


lol.. im using one of those for 2-4x 7970s and 1 for 3930k + RAM + Mobo


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> lol.. im using one of those for 2-4x 7970s and 1 for 3930k + RAM + Mobo


I wanna WC everything.... the whole kit and cabootle.... but I'm curious if my mobo will have blocks.... and then i'll need to hunt those RAM blocks....


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I wanna WC everything.... the whole kit and cabootle.... but I'm curious if my mobo will have blocks.... and then i'll need to hunt those RAM blocks....


lol... im WCing everything i can find a block for as well







... im more just currious what case you are gunna use that can fit 6 of them


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> lol... im WCing everything i can find a block for as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... im more just currious what case you are gunna use that can fit 6 of them


Cosmos 2 good sir!


----------



## goodtobeking

Lol had a brain fart. Didnt think about the monsta


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Lol had a brain fart. Didnt think about the monsta


Lol.. We all have them








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Cosmos 2 good sir!


Lol... Nice try... I don't think you could fit more then one in the cosmos 2 (and even that would take modding)... The only thing I can think of that will hold 6x monstas is some form of massive double wide case (a TH10 would only fit 4)


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Lol.. We all have them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol... Nice try... I don't think you could fit more then one in the cosmos 2 (and even that would take modding)... The only thing I can think of that will hold 6x monstas is some form of massive double wide case (a TH10 would only fit 4)


modding will be involved as i will have to put the rad into the roof.


----------



## yutzybrian

Woot package came today!


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesomesauce! Now I wanna see Sushi have a similar experience soon.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Awesomesauce! Now I wanna see Sushi have a similar experience soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Heck yeah. Alex is redoing the reservoir because the first one messed up on the frosting and hole drilling. Mine is made of polyurethane -- Alex says this makes it softer and more break resistant argo, it makes hit harder to drill -- thus drilling is a nightmare. (Like that use of grammar? Oooooh!!)









But yeah. I could show you one picture but it wouldn't do it justice. He sent me a pick of the scrapped product so that could give you an idea if you really wanted.

-Sushi


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Awesomesauce! Now I wanna see Sushi have a similar experience soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heck yeah. Alex is redoing the reservoir because the first one messed up on the frosting and hole drilling. Mine is made of polyurethane -- Alex says this makes it softer and more break resistant argo, it makes hit harder to drill -- thus drilling is a nightmare. (Like that use of grammar? Oooooh!!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah. I could show you one picture but it wouldn't do it justice. He sent me a pick of the scrapped product so that could give you an idea if you really wanted.
> 
> -Sushi
Click to expand...

*DOOOOOOO EET!* We're all chomping at the bit on this one, just make sure to let us know that it's not the finished product.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So here is a general design/idea of the product. Mind you this is a scrapped part and nothing like the actually image/piece will be.


Spoiler: Not finished product! This is a scrapped part!







-Sushi









Edit: w00t! Worked this time.


----------



## eskamobob1

lol... so its a beaker esentualy?







... whats the theme of you build gunna be?









EDIT: it may be easier to blow by hand if you have the skills because of the shape


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> lol... so its a beaker esentualy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... whats the theme of you build gunna be?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: it may be easier to blow by hand if you have the skills because of the shape


No skills such as that exist here. Plus I don't have the tools. The build will be based off of DayZ, zombies, biohazard, ooze, goo and all things radioactive, etc. So I figured a beaker would be something different and interesting.






My next build will be a steampunk/diesel punk, etc. build. That one will be truly something.


Spoiler: Next build ideas. A punk theme. Steampunk/ Dieselpunk, Atompunk, etc.












Edit: Whoops! Had some picture of some hot elf ComicCon/BizzCon chick. LOL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> lol... so its a beaker esentualy?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... whats the theme of you build gunna be?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: it may be easier to blow by hand if you have the skills because of the shape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No skills such as that exist here. Plus I don't have the tools. The build will be based off of DayZ, zombies, biohazard, ooze, goo and all things radioactive, etc. So I figured a beaker would be something different and interesting.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My next build will be a steampunk/diesel punk, etc. build. That one will be truly something.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Next build ideas. A punk theme. Steampunk/ Dieselpunk, Atompunk, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Whoops! Had some picture of some hot elf ComicCon/BizzCon chick. LOL
Click to expand...

If you won't put this up I will...




















Can't wait to see the finished product Sushi. That looks badazzzzz









~Ceadder


----------



## Valgaur

Let us know sushi. I have a fuly green/caustic build planned. Might get the green led meteor res or make my own through these guys, but I want to see the beaker idea.


----------



## eskamobob1

Sushi... You should try and figure out how to make the fluid in the bleaker to look like its boiling if you can


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> Sushi... You should try and figure out how to make the fluid in the bleaker to look like its boiling if you can


Small piece of dry ice will make it look boiling. I would start small to find the best results.









~Ceadder


----------



## eskamobob1

But that isn't maintainable... I would personally use an air pump much like you do in a fish tank and have a very small second res somewhere else so you don't get bubbles in your loop


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> But that isn't maintainable... I would personally use an air pump much like you do in a fish tank and have a very small second res somewhere else so you don't get bubbles in your loop


True but it is long enough to get a good pic or vid done. So it's probably best and as you point out your main concern with an air pump is bubbles.









~Ceadder


----------



## eskamobob1

Lol... But it would be awsome







... All you would need is a small chamber below the air line to bleed out bubbles before the loop


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> Woot package came today!


Which type of frozenq is that?
I am currently doing alot of research on frozenq res, and I'm not surw which to get, my update plan is a white/red theme
What is the difference between THIS
and THIS ?
Does both use UV cathode?
I'm afraid the UV light will clash with the white lighting , can anyone confirm about this? maybe with photos?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Which type of frozenq is that?
> I am currently doing alot of research on frozenq res, and I'm not surw which to get, my update plan is a white/red theme
> What is the difference between THIS
> and THIS ?
> Does both use UV cathode?
> I'm afraid the UV light will clash with the white lighting , can anyone confirm about this? maybe with photos?


Yes. Both use UV. Also the difference is one has side ports and the other has end ports.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> The only option is cold cathode.
> And the helix simply reacts


Hmm that looks promising, I want to replace the UV bulb with a Cold White (Non UV) one, in order to match my color scheme. Is it possible to find one that fits Liquid Fusion V 160mm ??


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Hmm that looks promising, I want to replace the UV bulb with a Cold White (Non UV) one, in order to match my color scheme. Is it possible to find one that fits Liquid Fusion V 160mm ??


Email [email protected], when I ordered mine I had Alex put a red cathode in it instead of UV and paid a little extra for the bulb


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Hmm that looks promising, I want to replace the UV bulb with a Cold White (Non UV) one, in order to match my color scheme. Is it possible to find one that fits Liquid Fusion V 160mm ??


Email [email protected], when I ordered mine I had Alex put a red cathode in it instead of UV and paid a little extra for the bulb


----------



## eskamobob1

This... But you should know that the res contains the UV lifting prity well, and even witha a white light it will still throw off weird colors because its shining through the helixes... One of my favorite builds I have done used a frozen Q double helix without a bulb... It was just lit up by the surroundings and it looked grew IMO


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eskamobob1*
> 
> This... But you should know that the res contains the UV lifting prity well, and even witha a white light it will still throw off weird colors because its shining through the helixes... One of my favorite builds I have done used a frozen Q double helix without a bulb... It was just lit up by the surroundings and it looked grew IMO


Pics?


----------



## kanaks

Thanks for the promptly response mates








I' ll check it without the bulb and if its not blending then its Alex time.


----------



## eskamobob1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Thanks for the promptly response mates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I' ll check it without the bulb and if its not blending then its Alex time.


NP... Best of luck








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Pics?


Unfortunately no... I have not started taking pics of builds until this most recent one tbh


----------



## MaDeuce50

Has anyone ordered anything recently from FrozenQ? I placed an order 2 weeks ago for a replacement helix and my account was charged 2 days later but my items haven't shipped yet. I already sent emails asking for a status but still no reply. Does anyone know what is is going on?


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaDeuce50*
> 
> Has anyone ordered anything recently from FrozenQ? I placed an order 2 weeks ago for a replacement helix and my account was charged 2 days later but my items haven't shipped yet. I already sent emails asking for a status but still no reply. Does anyone know what is is going on?


He's had a large work load recently I think. I ordered a res on black friday during his sale and just got it this week. Due to the fact everything is hand crafted it takes a while for orders to fill


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> Which type of frozenq is that?
> I am currently doing alot of research on frozenq res, and I'm not surw which to get, my update plan is a white/red theme
> What is the difference between THIS
> and THIS ?
> Does both use UV cathode?
> I'm afraid the UV light will clash with the white lighting , can anyone confirm about this? maybe with photos?


Mine is a 250ml with a blood red/black helix. I had Alex put a red cathode in it (for extra charge of course) instead of the UV. I also have the Dark Chrome ice caps


The only difference in the two you linked is side ports and helix color. All FrozenQ reservoirs come standard with UV cathodes. You have to either custom order or buy a replacement to get a different color


----------



## Bart

^ That looks awesome! Wish I had done that with mine!


----------



## jokrik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> Mine is a 250ml with a blood red/black helix. I had Alex put a red cathode in it (for extra charge of course) instead of the UV. I also have the Dark Chrome ice caps
> 
> 
> The only difference in the two you linked is side ports and helix color. All FrozenQ reservoirs come standard with UV cathodes. You have to either custom order or buy a replacement to get a different color


It looks really good!
one last question, lets say I order the same color as yours
and I will be using a red coolant, would the red coolant color reduce the color of the helix rod color to the point it wont look good?


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jokrik*
> 
> It looks really good!
> one last question, lets say I order the same color as yours
> and I will be using a red coolant, would the red coolant color reduce the color of the helix rod color to the point it wont look good?


If you're talking transparent red coolant you'll be fine. Done use a pastel color though because then you pretty much can't see the helix


----------



## Valgaur

With my UV green colant idea what colors should I get my res helix then? juse a dual or tri helix? ugh... so many choices!!!!!!!!.... going green theme btw!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Colored dye and colored res clash. I've seen then done on YouTube and stuff; it doesn't look right imo. Best to go clear coolant and colored tubing.

Also, Alex has been swamped for weeks. Starting around Thanksgiving he had some internal company issues to work out. Usual business stuff for a young company.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Colored dye and colored res clash. I've seen then done on YouTube and stuff; it doesn't look right imo. Best to go clear coolant and colored tubing.
> 
> Also, Alex has been swamped for weeks. Starting around Thanksgiving he had some internal company issues to work out. Usual business stuff for a young company.


That's why I asked lol. Now I just need to find good uv green tubing. Aparrently its darn tough.....


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Colored dye and colored res clash. I've seen then done on YouTube and stuff; it doesn't look right imo. Best to go clear coolant and colored tubing.
> 
> Also, Alex has been swamped for weeks. Starting around Thanksgiving he had some internal company issues to work out. Usual business stuff for a young company.


That's why I asked lol. Now I just need to find good uv green tubing. Aparrently its darn tough.....


----------



## eskamobob1

Check out this post if you want to see what color with the helix can look like... I so saw another with a red helix and blue liquid that looked awsome

http://www.overclock.net/t/1214130/ocn-frozenq-reservoir-owners-club/660#post_18879174

Hope this helped


----------



## tinmann

I got this on Ebay, I just couldn't resist even though I already had a dual bay res


----------



## minicooper1

boys a solution for the condensation in my frozenq?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*
> 
> boys a solution for the condensation in my frozenq?


Fill your reservoir up higher with water. I like to top my reservoir off with water personally.


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Fill your reservoir up higher with water. I like to top my reservoir off with water personally.


yes ok, now i use water but i want use mayhems.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Yeah no worries. Just read on the back of Mayhems' dye the correct water to dye ratio and apply accordingly. Or if you are using the drops then just take a liter of distilled water and start adding some drops. The more drops you get the darker or stronger the dye color will become.


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Yeah no worries. Just read on the back of Mayhems' dye the correct water to dye ratio and apply accordingly. Or if you are using the drops then just take a liter of distilled water and start adding some drops. The more drops you get the darker or stronger the dye color will become.


ok but if you fill half the frozenq to see the propeller (using the mayhems) creates condensation, and I do not like


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Well you are supposed to fill the entire reservoir up. It looks better and reduces the chance of air bubbles in the loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Well you are supposed to fill the entire reservoir up. It looks better and reduces the chance of air bubbles in the loop.


This. Fill it up.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This. Fill it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


HE'S ALIVE!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This. Fill it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HE'S ALIVE!!
Click to expand...

Of course I am. God don't want me and Hell is afraid I would take over.









I thought you were talking about Alex when I saw this in my sub list.









~Ceadder


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Nope you. Well Alex has had some success with my reservoir and should be done soon.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Nope you. Well Alex has had some success with my reservoir and should be done soon.


Yup. Still around, tho not as much as b4.









~Ceadder


----------



## MRDcanadian

hey everyone, just bough my first reservoir from Frozend q, (limited edition X4 in orange UV). i was curious if any of you could answer some questions i have about the product. the first question, is it normal that the bottom of the compartment for the cathode isn't sealed and water can touch the cathode? and that brings me to the next question i have, is it normal that it would leak from the cathode insert hole? (if intalled upside down or horisontal). and if i wish can the reservoir be dismantle without breaking anything? (taking off the end caps for example).

thank you all in advance, as soon as i can figure a few things out and finish the loop i'll post a pic on of my little devil in action with this awesome looking reservoir.


----------



## voldomazta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MRDcanadian*
> 
> hey everyone, just bough my first reservoir from Frozend q, (limited edition X4 in orange UV). i was curious if any of you could answer some questions i have about the product. the first question, is it normal that the bottom of the compartment for the cathode isn't sealed and water can touch the cathode? and that brings me to the next question i have, is it normal that it would leak from the cathode insert hole? (if intalled upside down or horisontal). and if i wish can the reservoir be dismantle without breaking anything? (taking off the end caps for example).
> 
> thank you all in advance, as soon as i can figure a few things out and finish the loop i'll post a pic on of my little devil in action with this awesome looking reservoir.


i'm not sure about all the other things, so i'm going to answer one thing i'm certain about, i have dismantled the res (liquid fusion v) a couple of times to clean it. sometimes you just have to apply a decent amount of force to open it. some advice applying a bit of heat to it (as you would when opening a hard-to-open jar of mayonnaise) but mine popped off without needing heat. also i would be careful about the edge of the caps since they are sharp and can harm your fingers.


----------



## Hokies83

Gonna be running a 250ML fusion helix red and a 400ML fusion Helix in my MM Ascension .


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> i'm not sure about all the other things, so i'm going to answer one thing i'm certain about, i have dismantled the res (liquid fusion v) a couple of times to clean it. sometimes you just have to apply a decent amount of force to open it. some advice applying a bit of heat to it (as you would when opening a hard-to-open jar of mayonnaise) but mine popped off without needing heat. also *i would be careful about the edge of the caps since they are sharp and can harm your fingers.*


I second this, and so does the scar on top of my finger! Wear gloves when removing the caps, just in case. I bled like a stuck pig, which is ironic considering I ordered the "blood red helix" version of that thing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *voldomazta*
> 
> i'm not sure about all the other things, so i'm going to answer one thing i'm certain about, i have dismantled the res (liquid fusion v) a couple of times to clean it. sometimes you just have to apply a decent amount of force to open it. some advice applying a bit of heat to it (as you would when opening a hard-to-open jar of mayonnaise) but mine popped off without needing heat. also *i would be careful about the edge of the caps since they are sharp and can harm your fingers.*
> 
> 
> 
> I second this, and so does the scar on top of my finger! Wear gloves when removing the caps, just in case. *I bled like a stuck pig, which is ironic considering I ordered the "blood red helix*" version of that thing.
Click to expand...









Mebbe the dye used in the Helix decided to run?







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Belial

random question - can you use any plastic bottle as a resevoir for water cooling?

Saw a wc loop using white colored liquid... and made me think i gotta make a custom loop using a milk jug.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> random question - can you use any plastic bottle as a resevoir for water cooling?
> 
> Saw a wc loop using white colored liquid... and made me think i gotta make a custom loop using a milk jug.


I suppose you could but keeping it sealed around the fittings might be tricky


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> random question - can you use any plastic bottle as a resevoir for water cooling?
> 
> Saw a wc loop using white colored liquid... and made me think i gotta make a custom loop using a milk jug.


Use a 5 gallon bucket with silicone or caulk. Works wonders when flushing out a loop.


----------



## foreign03

Just finished my custom water great temps


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foreign03*
> 
> 
> Just finished my custom water great temps


Oh man your build looks spectacular!! Many many congratulations, loved the symmetry and balance in your rig.


----------



## Juthos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MRDcanadian*
> 
> hey everyone, just bough my first reservoir from Frozend q, (limited edition X4 in orange UV). i was curious if any of you could answer some questions i have about the product. the first question, is it normal that the bottom of the compartment for the cathode isn't sealed and water can touch the cathode? and that brings me to the next question i have, is it normal that it would leak from the cathode insert hole? (if intalled upside down or horisontal). and if i wish can the reservoir be dismantle without breaking anything? (taking off the end caps for example).
> 
> thank you all in advance, as soon as i can figure a few things out and finish the loop i'll post a pic on of my little devil in action with this awesome looking reservoir.


I have this res

but i can't see through the helixes. How do you notice the leakage ?


----------



## MRDcanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juthos*
> 
> I have this res
> 
> but i can't see through the helixes. How do you notice the leakage ?


I have the same one, in orange and black caps. i found the issues, as i was opening it there was a loose piece of plastic inside. that piece of plastic is the end cap of the cathode compartment hidden within the helix. so when i was testing it the water would go in that compartment and come out of the hole you insert the Cathode. i bought some aquarium glue and glued it back where it belongs. just finished the leak test 2 days ago and will post pics as soon as i have a decent camera to show you all







. the bleeding effect is nice i love it.


----------



## MRDcanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foreign03*
> 
> 
> Just finished my custom water great temps


very nice build you have there. love the tubing color


----------



## foreign03

Thank you it was my first watercooled build took me 2 months to build up the nerve to attempt it. But glad I did temps are great and the res is awesome. Once I first saw the res I knew I had to get it lol


----------



## MRDcanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foreign03*
> 
> Thank you it was my first watercooled build took me 2 months to build up the nerve to attempt it. But glad I did temps are great and the res is awesome. Once I first saw the res I knew I had to get it lol


same here, you should post a pic with the light on


----------



## kanaks

While trying to sleeve the cable that feeds the ccfl inverter i accidentally connected the pins the opposite way around. It seems that now its broken since my Frozenq remains in the shadows









Since aquatuning is out of stock for frozenq inverters, can I use an Inverter from another ccfl lets say Sharkoon cold light cathodes twin white - 10cm ?

I think that fuse might be the problem


----------



## goodtobeking

Yeah any inverter will work for the cathode. I broke one of mine as well and luckly my brother in law had one he wasnt using. Working fine now.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Yeah any inverter will work for the cathode. I broke one of mine as well and luckly my brother in law had one he wasnt using. Working fine now.


Thanks mate, going to buy a cheepo Sharkoon one.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

AND IT'S DONE! LOL! After a few hiccups and a few months. Our master piece has came to fruition!

*What you see before you is Alex's ability to take a custom concept and turn it into a materialized idea.*

After and before. (Left to right) The one on the right screwed up during the drilling/milling process so Alex had to reorder one and redo it. Class A guy though.


Everyone loves a sexy bottom!


And here is is glowing. I've been debating for some weeks if I should paint the frosted image so it shows up more. (Alex's hard work gone bye bye but we discussed this before he did it. hahaha)


These pictures are mainly for my Chedder Bob. (Ceadderman) I want him to have a heart attack.

Well it's almost done. He is making a C clamp so I can suspend it from my 5.25" bay.









Edit: Oh yeah and it's 500mL.


----------



## Bart

SWEET! Totally awesome!


----------



## goodtobeking

Nice I dig it Sushi. If you chose the right theme for the build with that, it could be something amazing. Great creativity so far and props to Alex on making it.

Did some experimenting around with back lighting my Liquid Fusion reservoir with some blue LEDs. I like the look it gives out, nice being able to switch back and forth easily. I just use my Aquaero LT to control all my lights. And I have it set so that when I take off my side panel it turns on the UV CCFL in the reservoir automatically.

UV CCFL lit reservoir with Aquacomputer RGB LED light shinning into the tube above that changes color with water temperature.


LED back lit


EDIT: The light is more even that it looks in the picture, but not perfect. I would like to run another strip on the other side but I ran out of the LED strip. Only have like 4 inches left out of 16.5 feet lol.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> AND IT'S DONE! LOL! After a few hiccups and a few months. Our master piece has came to fruition!
> 
> *What you see before you is Alex's ability to take a custom concept and turn it into a materialized idea.*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> After and before. (Left to right) The one on the right screwed up during the drilling/milling process so Alex had to reorder one and redo it. Class A guy though.
> 
> 
> Everyone loves a sexy bottom!
> 
> 
> And here is is glowing. I've been debating for some weeks if I should paint the frosted image so it shows up more. (Alex's hard work gone bye bye but we discussed this before he did it. hahaha)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pictures are mainly for my Chedder Bob. (Ceadderman) I want him to have a heart attack.
> 
> Well it's almost done. He is making a C clamp so I can suspend it from my 5.25" bay.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Oh yeah and it's 500mL.


Man that is awesome. Nice work on the design and props to Alex for making a one off!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Thanks guys. Don't worry men. The reservoir was designed and built around a build Dwood and i have been doing for months. Everyone is playing their parts well so far. Alex is done, Darrel is almost done, and now to go and bug Mick again on a custom dye.

Everything is going according to plan.... Mu-hahahahahaha!


----------



## oicwutudidthar

What size cathode is required to replace the UV cathode in the 250mm version of the res? I want to swap it out for a white one


----------



## PepeLapiu

I have to say that I ordered my bay res directly from Alex because I wanted extra g1/4 holes in there. That was a month ago. He was good at replying to emails up until I made payment. Since then, he has not replied to any of my update requests (2 of them) and when I try to check on order status throught the site, it doesn't even recognize that I have an order with them.

If nothing happens, I might have to cancel payment with paypal before the 45 day limit. That's in about 8 days from now.

Too bad, that res would look awesome in my case.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I have to say that I ordered my bay res directly from Alex because I wanted extra g1/4 holes in there. That was a month ago. He was good at replying to emails up until I made payment. Since then, he has not replied to any of my update requests (2 of them) and when I try to check on order status throught the site, it doesn't even recognize that I have an order with them.
> 
> If nothing happens, I might have to cancel payment with paypal before the 45 day limit. That's in about 8 days from now.
> 
> Too bad, that res would look awesome in my case.


He just did a Helix for me.. and it got here 2 days after i paid him.

Going to be buying more from him soon.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> I have to say that I ordered my bay res directly from Alex because I wanted extra g1/4 holes in there. That was a month ago. He was good at replying to emails up until I made payment. Since then, he has not replied to any of my update requests (2 of them) and when I try to check on order status throught the site, it doesn't even recognize that I have an order with them.
> 
> If nothing happens, I might have to cancel payment with paypal before the 45 day limit. That's in about 8 days from now.
> 
> Too bad, that res would look awesome in my case.


What was your order number? We don't have any orders outstanding from that long ago.


----------



## foreign03

Think maybe its fine if the op hasn't replied about his order lol


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> What was your order number? We don't have any orders outstanding from that long ago.


Hi Alex,
There is no problems. I received the order just fine. And I have to say the craftmanship for my dual bay res is excellent.
I think a technical snafu happened at your end perhaps because I didn't order via ordinary channels.

Will certainly buy from you guys again.









Cheers









Guy in Edmonton, Canada.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Did I ever post my pictures of the custom res? Been so busy with school.


----------



## Hokies83




----------



## NinjaSushi2

I miss how quiet watercooling is. Dwood needs to hurry up with my stuff.


----------



## MRDcanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*


very nice work. love it. these radiator are not easy to find where i am (canada). would love one of the quad version.


----------



## handi420

Hey all, how long dose the crating product stage normally last if you order it right from the frozen q web site?


----------



## AlphaPoz

Hi guys Just got a new res i am pretty sure youll like it ha

https://frozenqshop.com/index.php/bayres.html


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> Hey all, how long dose the crating product stage normally last if you order it right from the frozen q web site?


Not sure what you mean? Unless it's custom, Alex usually has a few of each modal lying around so he can ship them out within a day of the order being placed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlphaPoz*
> 
> Hi guys Just got a new res i am pretty sure youll like it ha
> 
> https://frozenqshop.com/index.php/bayres.html
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks good! I've got one with a black housing and green helix's.


----------



## handi420

Not sure how custom, but its a 400mm w/ a black helix, white caps, side ported and a white cathode. Ordered it 2/28.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

White cathode?.. Interesting. He should be done with it. Trying giving him a pm as that is nothing out of the norm imo. The cathode might be holding the process up


----------



## striderstone

I just bought mine, but it's processing







i'll post pics when I get it!


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> White cathode?.. Interesting. He should be done with it. Trying giving him a pm as that is nothing out of the norm imo. The cathode might be holding the process up


ok cool, thanks for the help man.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

No worries. I have two reservoirs myself. A dual bay fusion and a custom made one. (The dual bay was quick as I ordered from a retailer but the custom one took a bit. [Hence the custom part.])


----------



## AlphaPoz

just got my second loops res yesterday looks good

i would of gone green if i still had my G1.Assassin but i upgraded 6 months ago to a Rampage IV i do like the uv green better then red

if i wanted a custom one how would i go about that? just contact frozenq


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Yeah. Just PM Alex and discuss the type of reservoir you want made.

Here are some pics of my custom res. (Not sure if I ever posted these.)


Spoiler: Custom Reservoir Pics














Still moist from when Alex tested my res to see if it was leak proof.


----------



## goodtobeking

Looking great ninjasushi. Hope you are going to use some UV green or something it it as it would look even better.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Looking great ninjasushi. Hope you are going to use some UV green or something it it as it would look even better.


I am. I'm going to contract out Mick and see if I can persaude him to make me a special new dye. Mayhems' Toxic UV Green or something cool.


----------



## goodtobeking

That would be sweet. Ive always wanted him to make an Aurora blend that was semi transparent and UV reactive. Although they say that the aurora stuff isnt good for complex loops.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> That would be sweet. Ive always wanted him to make an Aurora blend that was semi transparent and UV reactive. Although they say that the aurora stuff isnt good for complex loops.


Never heard that as Mick test every dye before he releases it to the public. A while back is mixed me up a small conction of dyes he already had to get the effect more or less of what I wanted. So now I will probably do a build log soon and see if I when him over then.

Alex; where are you hiding.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Aurora is not made for complex systems. It is made for simple loops with 1 or 2 rads and pumps and res.


Source directly from Mayhems

But regardless its going to be a great looking reservoir even with some normal UV green. Another thing I think would be cool, would to have the reactive dye separate from the water so it would look something like this. I took these pictures while testing between the two mayhems UV blue dye





Hard to see in still pictures but the UV dye was heavier than the water and just fell around the helix pieces in a spiral. Cool as hell looking but probably impossible to produce


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Cool looking pictures bro! I like it. It would be cool to see a mixture where the dye stays separate from the coolant.


----------



## PepeLapiu

This makes me think that I would like to play around with light UV dies to react in my FrozenQ bay res. Might get some pretty cool effects!


----------



## goodtobeking

Its cool and all, but once you add a certain amount the UV lighting on the helix tubes dims down. The UV dye is absorbing the light as well, so by time it reaches the helix you only get a % of the light. Not a problem with a little dye, but once you get a lot in there it starts effecting it. But I did just pick up a UV LED strip that I could use to overpower the dye though. I already ran a blue and cool white strips down the length of my reservoir tinkering around. Will post some more pics of that if you guys want.

Still worth trying out for yourself. Maybe using a different color dye to your helix would look cool. My reservoir is blue(old version made before you could take them apart) and the dyes I used where both clear/UV blue.


----------



## PepeLapiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Will post some more pics of that if you guys want.


Are you trying to be cruel to us?
Of course we wanna see pics man!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Are you trying to be cruel to us?
> Of course we wanna see pics man!


This.


----------



## Valgaur

I have a nice idea for you guys. I plan on making a custom made wooden gaming case with 4-5 monstas 80mm 480 rads dual pump system and a dual 400mm res from alex setup on the top, or on the front as the sides of the front panel. Two acrylic side panel windows inlayed into wood. Then custom finish and routing to make it nice and pretty. Ohh. 4 way crossfire as well im thinking. Would you guys be interested in a build log involving these reservoirs?


----------



## goodtobeking

Overall system picture with both sets of lights barely turned on. Sorry didnt realize the white LEDs in the back where hanging until I took the pictues. Will be fixing that.


White and blue LEDs


White LEDs EDIT: in this picture you can see the slight crack in the reservoir










CCFL and white LED


CCFL only


CCFL with blue LED


Blue LEDs


CCFL with white and blue LEDs

Sorry for the wall of pictures, but there it is so far. Both sets of LEDs are adjustable independently via Aquasuite software and the CCFL is set to turn on when I remove the side panel.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I have a nice idea for you guys. I plan on making a custom made wooden gaming case with 4-5 monstas 80mm 480 rads dual pump system and a dual 400mm res from alex setup on the top, or on the front as the sides of the front panel. Two acrylic side panel windows inlayed into wood. Then custom finish and routing to make it nice and pretty. Ohh. 4 way crossfire as well im thinking. Would you guys be interested in a build log involving these reservoirs?


This guy's statement holds true
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> Are you trying to be cruel to us?
> Of course we wanna see pics man!


EDIT: sorry for double post


----------



## PepeLapiu

goodtobeking, I'm sorry I didnt follow this thread before. Where did you put your LEDs? In the res itself or just beyind it? It looks great! Might hafta do something like that in my bay res.

And why do you advise not to eat the yellow snow? Are you speaking from personal experience?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I have a nice idea for you guys. I plan on making a custom made wooden gaming case with 4-5 monstas 80mm 480 rads dual pump system and a dual 400mm res from alex setup on the top, or on the front as the sides of the front panel. Two acrylic side panel windows inlayed into wood. Then custom finish and routing to make it nice and pretty. Ohh. 4 way crossfire as well im thinking. Would you guys be interested in a build log involving these reservoirs?


I would be up for a build log of that magnatude.


----------



## Hokies83

Anywho my 250 ML res leaking from the Light.. the tube for the light inside the res is filling with water to.. And leaking where the power cable comes out from the res...

Is there an Easy way to fix this?


----------



## Hokies83

Anywho i top the end cap off.. and tightened the cap to the light tube see if that works..


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So it's leaking from the inside where the cathode tube resides? I'd say try some PTFE tape but that would only apply to the thread. Perhaps some fish tank silicone would do you the trick. Just a dab.


----------



## Hokies83

Ya I removed the end cap took off end screw of cathode tube put more Teflon tape on it screwed it back on seems to have stopped.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Well that's good. Take a picture of your handy work.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I would be up for a build log of that magnatude.


I just not quite sure on what gpu's to get but looking into the 7970's for now. hmmmm dual 400mm is only 16 inches.... I shall put those res's into my case and make it flush with them. I really want this to work though


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I use dual 7970s and they kick some serious ass. Started playing Fallout 1 and I get 1500+ FPS 1920x1200 with two monitors with just one 7970. LOL But seriously, they are awesome.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> goodtobeking, I'm sorry I didnt follow this thread before. Where did you put your LEDs? In the res itself or just beyind it? It looks great! Might hafta do something like that in my bay res.
> 
> And why do you advise not to eat the yellow snow? Are you speaking from personal experience?


I just used some clear scotch tape to hold them for now. Not visible and hold it ok. If I decide to keep them I will do something better. But they are waterproof so I could put them into my reservoir, but I wont be doing that. Although I did drop about half a strip, which is 16.4 feet long, into my aquarium and it didnt do anything. One of these days going to cut up my UV strip and put it behind the reservoir as well and test with it. But thats another day.

Its one of my favorite quotes from my favorite artist. Along with
Quote:


> Remember there's a big difference between kneeling down and bending over.


Frank Zappa


----------



## wermad

Will need to post pics of my new bay res. Waiting for a possible 2nd one


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Will need to post pics of my new bay res. Waiting for a possible 2nd one


Ooh... What color scheme is the res?


----------



## Hokies83

Well it still leaked after the 2nd try to fix it....

Drained loop for the 3rd time put an un godly amount of Teflon tape on it got it tightto the point the inner tube felt it would break if i did anymore...

So far 7hr's or so no leaks.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Well it still leaked after the 2nd try to fix it....
> 
> Drained loop for the 3rd time put an un godly amount of Teflon tape on it got it tightto the point the inner tube felt it would break if i did anymore...
> 
> So far 7hr's or so no leaks.


Take some pics to see if we can help you identify the product. That is if it leaks again. Also who did you order it from? FrozenQ website or one of the distributors?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Ooh... What color scheme is the res?


fluorescent blue and green:



I'm running Mayhems Emerald green and it doesn't affect the look when the ccfl is lit.


----------



## PepeLapiu

What is this ccfl everyone is talking about?
Are you guys talking about the UV rod in the res?
You refer to the UV rod as ccfl?

Im getting confused here.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PepeLapiu*
> 
> What is this ccfl everyone is talking about?
> Are you guys talking about the UV rod in the res?
> *You refer to the UV rod as ccfl?*
> 
> Im getting confused here.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Lol. The yes sir smiley. CCFL is Cold-Cathode Fluorescent Lamp. Some people say lighting too. It comes in various types and colors. Inverter or inverterless and UV, red, green, blue, etc. Black Lights if you will.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> fluorescent blue and green:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running Mayhems Emerald green and it doesn't affect the look when the ccfl is lit.


looks pretty cool














reminds me of a T-virus container


----------



## SwiftDW

How long does it normally take for orders placed on the actual frozenqshop website?
Placed my order over almost two weeks ago for a Liquid Fusion V Series Reservoir and it's still processing. Also sent an email to [email protected] asking for an update/estimate and it went unanswered


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> How long does it normally take for orders placed on the actual frozenqshop website?
> Placed my order over almost two weeks ago for a Liquid Fusion V Series Reservoir and it's still processing. Also sent an email to [email protected] asking for an update/estimate and it went unanswered


I ordered all 3 of mine Via PM to Alex here on the forums.. takes 3-5 days from Payment sent till res is at my door.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> How long does it normally take for orders placed on the actual frozenqshop website?
> Placed my order over almost two weeks ago for a Liquid Fusion V Series Reservoir and it's still processing. Also sent an email to [email protected] asking for an update/estimate and it went unanswered


If its past their requested 10 business days, you can pm them: http://www.overclock.net/u/81703/frozen-q

I've ordered a few times. Some took a couple of weeks to arrive, others have a taken a bit longer. But just make sure its been ten business days (not counting holidays and weekends) before contacting them through ocn.

edit: my bay res took about a month but its well worth the wait. Give them time and they'll take care of you








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> looks pretty cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> reminds me of a T-virus container


Thanks 







I need to order some new power/hdd leds. The ones that came with the case look a bit purplish and one is out. I do have some hints blue here and there to break up the main "green" theme.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> How long does it normally take for orders placed on the actual frozenqshop website?
> Placed my order over almost two weeks ago for a Liquid Fusion V Series Reservoir and it's still processing. Also sent an email to [email protected] asking for an update/estimate and it went unanswered


Hmm that is odd. Mary or Merriam or whatever her name is, Alexis secretary/orders gal should have processed the order by now. Have you paid yet? There is a chance the order never went through. I'd give Alex a pm but there's a chance he won't answer right away as he checks OCN about once a month. Also I do know he moved locations a few months back to a bigger facility so there is that possibility. They might still be messing with that hassle.

Keep us informed.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Hmm that is odd. Mary or Merriam or whatever her name is, Alexis secretary/orders gal should have processed the order by now. Have you paid yet? There is a chance the order never went through. I'd give Alex a pm but there's a chance he won't answer right away as he checks OCN about once a month. Also I do know he moved locations a few months back to a bigger facility so there is that possibility. They might still be messing with that hassle.
> 
> Keep us informed.


He talks to me every day LoL

You just gotta order 3 of his Res to get the VIP Service lol j/k


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I have a dual bay and a custom. First custom res maybe. Never heard of anyone requesting a custom res from him before.. Now to get Mick to make me a custom dye.


----------



## SwiftDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Hmm that is odd. Mary or Merriam or whatever her name is, Alexis secretary/orders gal should have processed the order by now. Have you paid yet? There is a chance the order never went through. I'd give Alex a pm but there's a chance he won't answer right away as he checks OCN about once a month. Also I do know he moved locations a few months back to a bigger facility so there is that possibility. They might still be messing with that hassle.
> 
> Keep us informed.


Payment went through on the 8th
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7hnay35vp3iejd8/payment.jpg
Still says the order is "processing" on their website








While the product I ordered says usually ships in 2-5 business days, it hasn't been 10 business days yet, so I'll wait for that before sending him a PM. It's just odd that they have an email to send order inquiries to but don't respond to the emails.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I sent him a PM on your behalf. It's already the 20th, you should have had at least a response or something by then.


----------



## SwiftDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I sent him a PM on your behalf. It's already the 20th, you should have had at least a response or something by then.


Thanks! Trying to be patient, but it's the last parts I need to put together my loop


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> Thanks! Trying to be patient, but it's the last parts I need to put together my loop


What address did you try and send an email to? We're switching emails around here right now so that might be the issue. Until recently I would handle all 5 email addresses, they were just different for organization purposes, but now Paul has [email protected] for general order information. He handles assembly of all custom orders. I'm thinking he might be having an issue with it. I'll double check with him tomorrow. He was also out Thursday through Monday sick so he might just be really behind.

Regardless, what was the order number as well so I can check it out myself and try and give you an ETA?


----------



## SwiftDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> What address did you try and send an email to? We're switching emails around here right now so that might be the issue. Until recently I would handle all 5 email addresses, they were just different for organization purposes, but now Paul has [email protected] for general order information. He handles assembly of all custom orders. I'm thinking he might be having an issue with it. I'll double check with him tomorrow. He was also out Thursday through Monday sick so he might just be really behind.
> 
> Regardless, what was the order number as well so I can check it out myself and try and give you an ETA?


I sent an email to [email protected] and
the order number is 100000598
It was pretty much a typical order except the color isn't one of the more popular ones i'd imagine (orange!)

Thanks for looking into it!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

And all is good.


----------



## wermad

Any discounts codes right now? Thinking of just ordering the second bay res from their site


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Not that I'm aware of.


----------



## Rainstar

Being paitient here as well, ordered a custom 10 bay in Dec, alex said there be some designs to show me. Never got any messages about proposed designs.

On 2/1/2013 he said he would be making the reservoir in a week, its been over a month since then, noticed i was never given an order number through my ocn pm's with frozenQ, have tried reaching them at [email protected] and [email protected] no replies and been 5 days.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Did ya send him pm.


----------



## Rainstar

Yes i replied to the conversation we were having ill send another soon


----------



## SwiftDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> And all is good.


Yup just waiting for his pm/response back now, will hopefully know something before the dreaded weekend is upon us








Thanks for the help!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Responded to both of you (RainStar and Swift)

Sorry if it took a little, trying to get my head screwed on here. I've got like 75 custom orders going on right now.


----------



## SwiftDW

No problem, thanks for the update!

edit* sent you a PM back, about the shipping!


----------



## Rainstar

thanks for the update as well <3


----------



## atibbo69

Hey guys, I'm trying to buy the tube version of this but I'm not sure what the specific colors are? There are a few types of green and blue on the website.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm trying to buy the tube version of this but I'm not sure what the specific colors are? There are a few types of green and blue on the website.


The one's marked "florescent" will interact w/ the purple uv light. The ones in the picture you posted (have this exact combo) is florescent. Think of these are "uv" colors; they'll glow with the uv light rod.

The rest of the colors are solid and some transparent colors. Most will interact with white lighting, but will give you a great choice of colors if you're planning to run plain distilled water only.


----------



## atibbo69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> The one's marked "florescent" will interact w/ the purple uv light. The ones in the picture you posted (have this exact combo) is florescent. Think of these are "uv" colors; they'll glow with the uv light rod.
> 
> The rest of the colors are solid and some transparent colors. Most will interact with white lighting, but will give you a great choice of colors if you're planning to run plain distilled water only.


Okay, thanks I went ahead and ordered the blue and green "florescent" tube anyway hoping it was the right colors haha. I think it will go quite nice with my current rig.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atibbo69*
> 
> Okay, thanks I went ahead and ordered the blue and green "florescent" tube anyway hoping it was the right colors haha. I think it will go quite nice with my current rig.


Glad you found your answer. Post pics when you get it


----------



## atibbo69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Glad you found your answer. Post pics when you get it


Will do!


----------



## chongvc

Does anyone seen Alex lately? I ordered a Liquid fusion reservoir on December 2012, item ready for ship on Feb 2013, but there is shipping issue.
Since then I have not heard or get any reply on the status. Not sure what to do now.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Send him a PM. He has been going through employee changes so everything is up and down currently with email systems, etc.. Since last year he moved to a bigger and better facility so he had to hire new employees, get new machines, etc. It's very hectic if you will. Before, he ran everything by himself and now he actually has people to help him so he is trying to get everyone on their feet so it'll all go smoothly in the years to come.

A better question is where is my man Ceadderman?


----------



## minicooper1




----------



## NinjaSushi2

Wow! That looks great man! I love how clean it is too.


----------



## minicooper1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Wow! That looks great man! I love how clean it is too.


thank you


----------



## kanaks

That devil is something else, I could definetely sold my soul to it


----------



## chongvc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Send him a PM. He has been going through employee changes so everything is up and down currently with email systems, etc.. Since last year he moved to a bigger and better facility so he had to hire new employees, get new machines, etc. It's very hectic if you will. Before, he ran everything by himself and now he actually has people to help him so he is trying to get everyone on their feet so it'll all go smoothly in the years to come.
> 
> A better question is where is my man Ceadderman?


But I think a simple reply from him will do. Now I'm wondering if the email which I sent to him earlier did not reach him or he might have overlook or something happened? I'm not sure what to do. Wish he can just tell me something better than nothing at all, as I'm half the world away from him.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hmm. I'll see what he's up to for ya.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minicooper1*


Are those mosfits and VRMs covered using a clear heatsink?


----------



## chongvc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Hmm. I'll see what he's up to for ya.


Thanks! I really appreciate it:thumb:!


----------



## ZytheEKS

I have the Frozen Q Limited Edition "Warp Drive" res (as you can see it's got a hillbilly mount until I can make a proper one for my DIY chassis


----------



## pwnography6

Got mine a few weeks ago now forgot to post. Pretty standard with a few extra ports and black Helix. Will get better pics once its full, cleaned and running.


----------



## Valgaur

For my custom build I want 2 400mm res but im debating what collors of the coils as I think ill be using distilled water.... I kinda wanna try the quad helix uv green ress but im not sure... tubing will be uv green as well.


----------



## paulyoung

Hi there guy's I'm looking into ordering the 250mm tri spiral, but would like to no. How orange is the amber version, also all the pics that I've seen of the green one, it looks more yellow than green. that is before it has the uv light hit it. My build is black and yellow, so can't decide on what colour to settle for. My idea is to have the middle coil, in black and the outer 2 in whatever colour I decide on. Cheers guys.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I'd go black and yellow quad or dual hex and yes, under UV light it looks more natural. He couldn't do a UV black but he could do UV yellow possibly. Just PM alex or email one of his employees.


----------



## Al plants Corn

Just got mine today!

White Acrylic caps, side ports, and two UV Blue Helix's.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I'd go black and yellow quad or dual hex and yes, under UV light it looks more natural. He couldn't do a UV black but he could do UV yellow possibly. Just PM alex or email one of his employees.


Yeah I'm not sure what color theme as I'm thinking of waiting for Haswell to come out


----------



## paulyoung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I'd go black and yellow quad or dual hex and yes, under UV light it looks more natural. He couldn't do a UV black but he could do UV yellow possibly. Just PM alex or email one of his employees.


I have just recieved an email from them regarding colors. And the yellow they used to have on their order form, was actually down as amber. But it was removed because they stopped doing that color. But the good news is they still have some in stock, I just need to mention that when ordering. I'm going to go for the tri, with yellow / black / yellow. Cos at the moment my rig is all black, hose fittings mobo. All that is yellow is the highlights on the heat sinks the MPower ram and Akasa Viper fans. I will then use Mayhems pastel yellow coolant.

I just need to find the $218 or £145, not an easy task when your broke with 340 to your name.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

@PaulYoung - NewHighScore did something along those lines as well. http://www.overclock.net/t/1289183/vespula-vulgaris-z77-mpower-build-log/0_20

I like the avatar you have there too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Yeah I'm not sure what color theme as I'm thinking of waiting for Haswell to come out


Haswell is not going to be anything special. Just more of an integrated CPU/GPU style to compete with AMD's Trinity architecture.


----------



## paulyoung

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> @PaulYoung - NewHighScore did something along those lines as well. http://www.overclock.net/t/1289183/vespula-vulgaris-z77-mpower-build-log/0_20
> 
> Funnily enough, he has used almost the same parts as I have, fans, top rad, front rad ( mine is the monsta 240 ) Along with the MPower mobo, and Avexir Mpower ram. I'll post a mini log over on the other section.
> 
> I had a reply from frozenQ. Apparently the yellow they used to sell, was actually marked as amber. however, I got in touch with a uk based firm, who happened to have one amber 250mm res in stock. They were kind enough to open the box, and take a few snaps, with/without uv light, and Emailed me the pics. All I can say is, it was lucky I didn't take FrozenQ at their word and order the res. As the color is not even close to yellow, it is deffinatly amber. So I'm sad to say my plans for this are out of the window, on the plus side I'm not about £145 plus what ever import costs would be out of pocket.


----------



## handi420

So i got my res today..

is your guys res held together with o-rings alone?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> So i got my res today..
> 
> is your guys res held together with o-rings alone?


the caps screw on w/ o-rings for the tube ones


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> the caps screw on w/ o-rings for the tube ones


hrmm the one i got 400mm dual helix has no threading on the tube or the end caps, only thing holding it all together is 4 o-rings, 2 for the tube and 2 for the cathode housing.


----------



## goodtobeking

New revision?? They should be threaded on


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> hrmm the one i got 400mm dual helix has no threading on the tube or the end caps, only thing holding it all together is 4 o-rings, 2 for the tube and 2 for the cathode housing.


I know my last 250mm one had some some or soft adhesive to it. Might be some medium glue to keep it place. If you're brave enough, twist it counter-clockwise. If you don't want to risk it, just leak test it outside your system. plug it up and fill it with water


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> New revision?? They should be threaded on


I think so i ordered it on feb 28 and just now got it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I know my last 250mm one had some some or soft adhesive to it. Might be some medium glue to keep it place. If you're brave enough, twist it counter-clockwise. If you don't want to risk it, just leak test it outside your system. plug it up and fill it with water


Nope, no glue, no adhesive, no threading, just o-rings. and how i found this out was trying to loosen the fillport to leak test it and the hole top just spun.. so my thinking is *** is this all about, go to investigate and realize there's nothing holding it together but o rings.











Is this normal?


----------



## goodtobeking

I would say that is a new revision. Gen VI, IIRC. I have heard of a lot of users having problems with their threaded caps. Maybe this is to address that problem. But I have no proof of this and is only speculation.

Reminds me of a giant Bitspower SLI fitting. I would like to see more engagement and maybe two O-rings for added protection and holding power. Coming from Alex, I would trust it and put it right into my build. But as always do a good leak test.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Not sure on most of those topics. Alex wouldn't sell a bad product so I would judge him on his design. He screwed up a custom reservoir for me and turned around and ordered another flask just so he could do it right, free of charge.









If anyone is curious on ordering custom reservoirs, it's mighty fun.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Mind you it will probably paint over and acid etch in the final biohazard symbol to black.


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> I would say that is a new revision. Gen VI, IIRC. I have heard of a lot of users having problems with their threaded caps. Maybe this is to address that problem. But I have no proof of this and is only speculation.
> 
> Reminds me of a giant Bitspower SLI fitting. I would like to see more engagement and maybe two O-rings for added protection and holding power. Coming from Alex, I would trust it and put it right into my build. But as always do a good leak test.


If i hold the base of the res on a table i can move the top end of the tube back and forth about a 1/2 inch. The lips on the end caps where the o-ring is seated are not even the same size.

There is no way i'm going to put this rickety mess full of water inside my pc.

I really hope I got a bad one or maybe it was rushed out b4 it was finished coz as it sits right now its garbage, or a desk lap at best, i'll see about getting in contact with alex and see if this is how its supposed to be.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> If i hold the base of the res on a table i can move the top end of the tube back and forth about a 1/2 inch. The lips on the end caps where the o-ring is seated are not even the same size.
> 
> There is no way i'm going to put this rickety mess full of water inside my pc.
> 
> I really hope I got a bad one or maybe it was rushed out b4 it was finished coz as it sits right now its garbage, or a desk lap at best, i'll see about getting in contact with alex and see if this is how its supposed to be.


Did it pass the leak test? Looks like you ran some liquid in there but you haven't said if it does leak. Also, look up "Bitspower Crystal Links". Its pretty much the same concept to seal







Also, why or how is the cap gonna move inside your system?


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Did it pass the leak test? Looks like you ran some liquid in there but you haven't said if it does leak. Also, look up "Bitspower Crystal Links". Its pretty much the same concept to seal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, why or how is the cap gonna move inside your system?


I filled it up with water and no, it did not leak, but there was no added pressure from a pump, that's what i was getting at with the seals.

Yeah i know about the bitspower crystal link and they are nice but i don't want to have to deal with a leak because its not secure, I take my pc to my cousins house about every weekend and play games. Really don't want something to get knocked loose on the way over there.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> I filled it up with water and no, it did not leak, but there was no added pressure from a pump, that's what i was getting at with the seals.
> 
> Yeah i know about the bitspower crystal link and they are nice but i don't want to have to deal with a leak because its not secure, I take my pc to my cousins house about every weekend and play games. Really don't want something to get knocked loose on the way over there.


Even a powerful pump like the 35x does not create tremendous amount of pressure. I hooked up a standard water gauge to my loop and tested the pump on its own, it barely moved the gauge. I'm sure its been tested by FrozenQ. Talk to FrozenQ support. Also, hit up the water cooling gallery thread to get more opinions. Seeing ppl use acrylic and copper tube with the same concept of sealing doesn't really surprise nor makes me skeptical if it will dislodge under the pumps pressure. If you want to test it: put the res (sans ccfl) in th sink, use some long pieces of tube to hook up the pump and place it on the counter-top, run the pump. By running the pump w/ the res only, you have the maximum amount of pressure exerted by the pump since there's no obstacles (ie blocks and rads) to go through. If it starts to leak, then I'm sure FrozenQ will take care of you.

Btw, if you secure your res properly to the case, it should be fine. Even lan party wc'ers have no trouble moving there rigs around. You can always add more brackets or make some sort of support system.

If you want to take to the extreme, use some sort of strong adhesive to permanently seal it and make it leak proof. I'm sure FrozenQ though about this concern when using this sealing method.


----------



## darwing

hey guys Im looking at one of these res' where is the best place to order, I want the side ports, not the standard bottom ports, is the only place I can custom that order on frozenq? because their prices are way more money then the other sites, or is there a good site you all ordered from?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> hey guys Im looking at one of these res' where is the best place to order, I want the side ports, not the standard bottom ports, is the only place I can custom that order on frozenq? because their prices are way more money then the other sites, or is there a good site you all ordered from?


Performance-PCS maybe? I hate FrozenCPU so I'd stay away from there; they screwed up too many of my orders. Also I'd just order off Alex's website ma-self.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Performance-PCS maybe? I hate FrozenCPU so I'd stay away from there; they screwed up too many of my orders. Also I'd just order off Alex's website ma-self.


They still busy? I asked FQ for a special request a while ago but I haven't heard back from them. Don't want to bombard them with emails if they're still too busy.


----------



## darwing

Hey Guys, I really would like to share with you an experience I just had with FrozenQ Alex, It was a great experience and I would like you to increase the awareness of this company and his support.

Please take a look at the interaction I had with him today in this forum topic frozenq amazing support and experience

Oh And, P.S. If you didnt get that I would like to join your club too cause I just ordered one


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Hey Guys, I really would like to share with you an experience I just had with FrozenQ Alex, It was a great experience and I would like you to increase the awareness of this company and his support.
> 
> Please take a look at the interaction I had with him today in this forum topic frozenq amazing support and experience
> 
> Oh And, P.S. If you didnt get that I would like to join your club too cause I just ordered one


Sorry your not allowed in our club. We need pictures or it didnt happen









Lol JK glad to hear about your amazing service with Alex. My reservoir was my first part of my WC loop I purchased(over a year ago IIRC). And Alex was very great to work with, and I have contacted him multiple times about different things with mostly immediate responses. Ever since then I have been recommending it to anyone with or thinking of building a loop. Would like to see a good review of that reservoir that was posted a couple pages back with a new design. Hopefully it isnt a crummy chinese knockoff


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Does anyone still update the club roster?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Does anyone still update the club roster?


Derick might be a bit busy w/ the Folding/Chimp-Challenge. Pm him to maybe take over? You've been very active and helpful so you would do great curating the thread


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Sounds like a plan.


----------



## Valgaur

Hey guys/Alex would you be willing to be a sponsor of my build this summer? I plan on using two of your 400mm res's


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Hey guys/Alex would you be willing to be a sponsor of my build this summer? I plan on using two of your 400mm res's


Contact FrozenQ support about sponsorship


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Contact FrozenQ support about sponsorship


will do!


----------



## Mega Man

Well i have to say i am extremely excited for several reasons


Spoiler: Warning to 56k users: Spoiler! Check it out



my printer was being a brat so i gave in and left the lines on my sign......






unboxing

only found 1 low res vid you could kinda see the mounts, this is so people can see the mounts and how it mounts


really wanted to show people a size comparison so they can get an idea, that is a 1 liter coke


**hairs you see on carpet is from my wonderful boarder collie!~ best dogs in the world... but the amount they shed makes bald guys cry



Loving this even more so as it looks like i am the first in the club with this model
FrozenQ PC Mods UV Meteor Light Limited Edition Reservoir - UV Warp Drive

really awesome work alex i will be coming back to you for some custom fan covers probably

will be doing a vid once it is in my case/loop waiiting for 1 more komodo 7079 a few rads and the other komodo to get here, and i need to make 1 more order from swiftech.

the fittings do not come with it i am just to lazy to take them off

again i can not emphasize how solid this feels and looks. just amazing


----------



## Hokies83

LoL think ive been waiting a month to get a replacement bulb that the leaky res i had to fix burned out XD lol Only took a week to get both complete res XD


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the Frozen Q Limited Edition "Warp Drive" res (as you can see it's got a hillbilly mount until I can make a proper one for my DIY chassis


dang you you stole my first to have this res medal

how do you like it ?

trying to design my mount now..... the design i have come up with that i like the most is t slot 8020 1010 based. but i am impatient lol and i dont want to wait after another internet order to get it here


----------



## SwiftDW

I finally got around to leak testing my build, and my reservoir leaks from the top cap.
I disassembled it to try figure out why, and neither the cap or the tube is threaded.
I sent an email to [email protected] but I figured you guys may be faster to respond!
Is this intentional, or did I get a defective product?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> I finally got around to leak testing my build, and my reservoir leaks from the top cap.
> I disassembled it to try figure out why, and neither the cap or the tube is threaded.
> I sent an email to [email protected] but I figured you guys may be faster to respond!
> Is this intentional, or did I get a defective product?


I hope it is a mistake...

That design will never work....

A person with a large loop like me and multi pumps the system builds up pressure and there is *NO WAY* that would ever hold.


----------



## Bart

SwiftDW: pretty sure that should be threaded. I've only taken mine apart once, but I'm sure it was threaded. Did you remove the other cap to compare?

Hokies83: it holds against my 2 D5 varios running at full speed.







Looks like he got shipped a dud or something. Not sure what happened there, but that sure as heck isn't normal!


----------



## Hokies83

My 2 MCP 35X full speed forced water past the threads in my light tube due to ther e ubber head pressure...

I had to take the res apart 4x to fix it...

It burned out my light which im now over 30 days waiting on...


----------



## Bart

Honestly, even though mine hasn't leaked, I still wouldn't buy another one. I don't find the quality to be very high on these things. Heck, I sliced my finger wide open just twisting off one of the caps. Seems like a very cheap product. Looks nice when working though.


----------



## wermad

Well, it looks like they've switched to this compression fitment for the end caps. Some one also posted this a few weeks ago and noticed it no longer has threads. I do recall the one I got back in 2012 did have threads.


----------



## Hokies83

er i do not like this design.

I guess u could get threads if u ask while ordering.


----------



## SwiftDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, it looks like they've switched to this compression fitment for the end caps. Some one also posted this a few weeks ago and noticed it no longer has threads. I do recall the one I got back in 2012 did have threads.


why would they switch to a design that does not work?
there's no way a single o ring is sufficient, it leaked *a lot* with my mcp655
so i'm thinking it has to be some kind of error

edit* for reference, even the instructions shipped with my res mention the tube being threaded


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> why would they switch to a design that does not work?
> there's no way a single o ring is sufficient, it leaked *a lot* with my mcp655
> so i'm thinking it has to be some kind of error
> 
> edit* for reference, even the instructions shipped with my res mention the tube being threaded


Somebody else who had just ordered one got one just like yours.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

As far as I know that is the new design FrozenQ is going with because people had problems in the past taking their reservoir apart. It shouldn't leak and should have an O-Ring seal to fit tight on the canister. As for the head-pressure, it would not effect the design. I would try checking the o-ring to see if it might be torn or cracked. Also give it a nice back and forth twist when you put it on to make sure any crap it not hindering it.

As for the design it works fine, probably just a fluke. If that still doesn't work pick up some PTFE for a $1.50 at a hardware store and tape the ends. Use a spiral pattern that overlaps down to the edge of the cap. Also make sure you get some PTFE where the O-Ring sits to give it a better seal. If that still doesn't work lmk and I have other options.

Sushi -


----------



## wermad

Use a bit of silicone grease to avoid tearing the o-ing. You can find it in the plumbing section in most hardware stores.


----------



## superericla

I recently removed the helix from my reservoir, which is now producing a very interesting "swirling bubbles" effect, without any of those bubbles going through my water blocks. I honestly like the look and effect more than with the helix in.


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Somebody else who had just ordered one got one just like yours.


Yeah it was me,


^that thing is still going no where near the inside of my pc filled with liquid.

On a side note the helix will fit inside an ek gen 3 res.


----------



## darwing

I've been watching this thread because I just ordered one last week and its been shipped... I heard originally heard these were bad quality... Now this!!! Great now I'm going to get this and there won't be threads!!!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Is it still leaking or were you able to fix it?

@Super. Show a video!


----------



## darwing

Oops didn't think the first post added, either way ill be really upset if the new design is a flaw


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Is it still leaking or were you able to fix it?
> 
> *@Super. Show a video!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


This for real.

Yeah I would like it for Frozen_Q to chime in and answer some questions. He used to be a fairly regular member here. This does look like a new revision, but not sure if I like it. Can I ask where you guys bought them from?? What site did you use??


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I recently removed the helix from my reservoir, which is now producing a very interesting "swirling bubbles" effect, without any of those bubbles going through my water blocks. I honestly like the look and effect more than with the helix in.


Sounds cool! Take any pics of that?


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> This for real.
> 
> Yeah I would like it for Frozen_Q to chime in and answer some questions. He used to be a fairly regular member here. This does look like a new revision, but not sure if I like it. Can I ask where you guys bought them from?? What site did you use??


ordered mine from the FrozenQ site on feb 28 and got it about 2-3 weeks ago


----------



## Pole04

I sincerely hope this isn't a problem for me. I just ordered a 4x Spiral and I have a pair of MCP-655's that will be pushing on this. I am going to be testing the hell out of mine before power is connected to anything other than the pumps. I will let you guys know how it turns out and I will post pics then.

One a side note, I ordered a little over a week ago and still no mailing notification. I sure hope it is waiting for me at home after my vacation this week.


----------



## superericla

It's very difficult to see on video due to the small size of the bubbles, but I put a video up.


----------



## SwiftDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Is it still leaking or were you able to fix it?
> 
> @Super. Show a video!


I haven't heard back from frozenq support yet, but:
I've fiddled with it numerous times, if this design is intended then it definitely does not work as it leaks every time I turn the pump on.
However I haven't had a chance to run to the store yet, so I haven't tried the things you all have suggested yet. Will post back if I hear back from frozenq and/or with results of my experimentation on how to make this work...


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> I haven't heard back from frozenq support yet, but:
> I've fiddled with it numerous times, if this design is intended then it definitely does not work as it leaks every time I turn the pump on.
> However I haven't had a chance to run to the store yet, so I haven't tried the things you all have suggested yet. Will post back if I hear back from frozenq and/or with results of my experimentation on how to make this work...


you should not have to run to the store to fix anything, this is really upsetting that you have a leaking res brand new... I really hope mine doesnt have this issue, does anyone else on here have the same issue as SwiftDW


----------



## Mega Man

sad how badly people complain about these, they are 100% custom hand made ( granted using machines but still ) there is bound to be hick ups.
it happens. esp at these prices. ( not very much especially when you consider no one is doing this in the market, he could mark them up alot more. ) he tries his best but has a life too. pm him. he is a great guy who helps out as much as he can.


----------



## handi420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sad how badly people complain about these, they are 100% custom hand made ( granted using machines but still ) there is bound to be hick ups.
> it happens. esp at these prices. ( not very much especially when you consider no one is doing this in the market, he could mark them up alot more. ) he tries his best but has a life too. pm him. he is a great guy who helps out as much as he can.


You can buy about three ek or bitspower res's for the same price, I get that your paying for the hand crafted custom color and thats fine i got no problem with that, thats why i bought one. But the quality isint there for the price.. mine is currently sitting on my parts desk and i'm using an ek res in my system.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> You can buy about three ek or bitspower res's for the same price, I get that your paying for the hand crafted custom color and thats fine i got no problem with that, thats why i bought one. But the quality isint there for the price.. mine is currently sitting on my parts desk and i'm using an ek res in my system.


so talk to him, but understand you have to do it on his schedule ( not saying you are not trying, but try pming him directly, have to realize the amount of pms he gets though and if he does not respond in 5-10 days give it another go !~ )


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *handi420*
> 
> You can buy about three ek or bitspower res's for the same price, I get that your paying for the hand crafted custom color and thats fine i got no problem with that, thats why i bought one. But the quality isint there for the price.. mine is currently sitting on my parts desk and i'm using an ek res in my system.


So have you tried fixing this leak? I have a custom maid reservoir from him and it works wonders. He also leak test everyone reservoir so I don't know how you would be having a problem. (Not saying you are not.)


----------



## nismoskyline

Hi! i have a question on this reservoir.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32044:c8caef8c3c5955fbba59169779c62570
I know it can use a d5 pump but i am not sure what accessories i would need to buy to make it fit into the reservoir, a list of a pump and any accessories would be greatly appreciated so i don't make any mistakes in ordering. thanks in advance


----------



## Whisperlude

So i was about to buy one of these reservoirs from performance-pcs
This one exactly:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_318_708&products_id=32105

Then read this thread and realized they are no longer threading them... ***????
Please tell me this issue has been resolved, because if not, i'll probably just end up getting a bitspower res.


----------



## Hokies83

You would think PPS's would have older stock in which is threaded.

You can email them and ask and they will check for you.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

It's made that way out call ppc anyways.


----------



## Hokies83

Just pray your res never leaks and burned your light out...

Im almost 2 months waiting on a Freaking Light....


----------



## NinjaSushi2

That's odd. I have like three extra ones. lol


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> That's odd. I have like three extra ones. lol


Extra 250ML black braided?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Source directly from Mayhems
> 
> But regardless its going to be a great looking reservoir even with some normal UV green. Another thing I think would be cool, would to have the reactive dye separate from the water so it would look something like this. I took these pictures while testing between the two mayhems UV blue dye
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hard to see in still pictures but the UV dye was heavier than the water and just fell around the helix pieces in a spiral. Cool as hell looking but probably impossible to produce


This very well might be the coolest effect I have seen I wish we could have this effect the whole time!!!

Oh and P.S you can add me to the list







filling it up tomorrow and will post pics









oh and stupid question,.. where do you connect it to the mother board? LOL its not a fan connection so what is the 3-pin connect too?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

You need an inventer for the cathode to work and I keep forgetting to PM Derick about taking over the thread.

Edit:
I sent him a PM just now.


----------



## fabbasi

Has anyone tried the nova core reservoir?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fabbasi*
> 
> Has anyone tried the nova core reservoir?


Looks like a Fusion res with no glass in it...

I think the Fusion glass is what cost the $$$$


----------



## Whisperlude

Well i was first thinking about getting a 250 ml res, but find out it probably wont have threads, which completely blows my freaking mind that any respectable company would do such a thing.... -___-
and now i was thinking maybe if i get lucky and get one with threads, if i wanted to switch out the UV cathode (which i was for a red one) it's going to take over 2 months to ship the replacement cathode to me... This is freaking ridiculous. I makes me angry that such an awesome looking res has so many flaws and potential to be a complete headache because of a company that cant get their **** together. Smh...


----------



## spikeSP

I was just about to order 2 250 mm reservoirs for my new STH10 build, until I saw all the quality issues in this thread!

It's really unfortunate that such a nice product isn't more reliable


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikeSP*
> 
> I was just about to order 2 250 mm reservoirs for my new STH10 build, until I saw all the quality issues in this thread!
> 
> It's really unfortunate that such a nice product isn't more reliable


My 400 ML res.. build quailty is great.. i think it was the last revision before going threadless.

The thing we gotta understand here... this is a 3 man operation.. who is SLAMED... He needs to hire more help...

Still 2 months for something like a simple light to put in a box and shipped is quite a face palm lol.


----------



## spikeSP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> My 400 ML res.. build quailty is great.. i think it was the last revision before going threadless.
> 
> The thing we gotta understand here... this is a 3 man operation.. who is SLAMED... He needs to hire more help...
> 
> Still 2 months for something like a simple light to put in a box and shipped is quite a face palm lol.


I understand it's a 3 -man operation which is getting slammed, but it's no excuse for some of the issues people are having IMO- especially since it's not like people aren't paying good money for their products, just like the 2 month thing you mentioned







.

Nice to hear about your 400 mm res- maybe if things do improve I'll order some after all! I'm not in a huge rush atm


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> You need an inventer for the cathode to work and I keep forgetting to PM Derick about taking over the thread.
> 
> Edit:
> I sent him a PM just now.


What inverter can u show me what to buy?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27348


----------



## Whisperlude

Do any of you guys think you could get a hold of the guy making these reses and ask him if he could go back to adding the threads?


----------



## Bart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whisperlude*
> 
> Do any of you guys think you could get a hold of the guy making these reses and ask him if he could go back to adding the threads?


I heard they just released revision 8 VERY recently (past few weeks), so maybe they fixed the problem with compression caps.


----------



## feniks

what metal plating is on the plugs (stop fittings) for side ports? I mean the ones coming from FQPC? is it chrome or nickel?

I am having a pump failure (it runs, but got very loud) and Koolance tech support wants me to open it up before sending for RMA. they also asked me to list all loop components and metals, saying that nickel plating might have flaked off (and clogged the pump) since there was silver kill coil in the loop.
as far as I know I have only copper, brass, chrome and silver in the loop, no nickel, but need to make sure.

thanks in advance for answering this.


----------



## Pole04

I am still waiting on my res, but I will let you guys know if I get threads or not as soon as I can take a peek. I will also post some spiffy pictures.

Hopefully my quad spiral will come in soon, it is holding up my build at this point...


----------



## Whisperlude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I am still waiting on my res, but I will let you guys know if I get threads or not as soon as I can take a peek. I will also post some spiffy pictures.
> 
> Hopefully my quad spiral will come in soon, it is holding up my build at this point...


This would help ALOT. Thanks! 
Where are you buying it from btw??


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I'll answer questions when I get home tonight. On my phone atm.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> what metal plating is on the plugs (stop fittings) for side ports? I mean the ones coming from FQPC? is it chrome or nickel?
> 
> I am having a pump failure (it runs, but got very loud) and Koolance tech support wants me to open it up before sending for RMA. they also asked me to list all loop components and metals, saying that nickel plating might have flaked off (and clogged the pump) since there was silver kill coil in the loop.
> as far as I know I have only copper, brass, chrome and silver in the loop, no nickel, but need to make sure.
> 
> thanks in advance for answering this.


part 1 dont ever tell them you have silver.

source
Quote:


> Koolance's product warranty does not cover the use of 3rd-party coolants, coolant additives, or corrosion. Koolance LIQ-702 or LIQ-705 coolants are strongly recommended to help avoid issues with mixed metals or biological growth. Additionally, do not use aluminum with bare (unplated) copper or bare (unplated) brass in the same system. Do not use silver with nickel in the same system.


it is on every product page i know of on koolance,

part 2 wouldnt opening up your pump oic the warranty ??









part 3
if nickel plating fell off isnt it koolances fault anywho ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I'll answer questions when I get home tonight. On my phone atm.


phone editing sucks doesnt it !~


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Phone editing huge amounts of quotes does suck indeed! Sometimes my phone won't even type.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Phone editing huge amounts of quotes does suck indeed! Sometimes my phone won't even type.


mine too


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whisperlude*
> 
> This would help ALOT. Thanks!
> Where are you buying it from btw??


I bought it directly from FrozenQ. I am really hoping that this new revision is why my res has been in the being created stage for over two weeks.


----------



## Whisperlude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I bought it directly from FrozenQ. I am really hoping that this new revision is why my res has been in the being created stage for over two weeks.


Things like this are what makes me feel sketchy about this company... /:


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whisperlude*
> 
> Things like this are what makes me feel sketchy about this company... /:


Well I realize these reservoirs are hand made and some parts may have not been on hand. I just hope it goes out soon.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

FrozenQ is a fine company and I've never had a problem with them. I own two reservoirs from Alex too. A dual bay res and a custom made res.
Alex is behind because he's been getting a bunch of custom orders in for the last for months.


----------



## SwiftDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> FrozenQ is a fine company and I've never had a problem with them. I own two reservoirs from Alex too. A dual bay res and a custom made res.
> Alex is behind because he's been getting a bunch of custom orders in for the last for months.


I've been out of town the past few days and unable to post updates (still out of town, actually), but i got an email from Alex so I figured i'd keep you all in the loop:
He confirmed that the new design is threadless, but he also said that they had revised the cap design since I had received mine, and he is shipping me a new cap with the improved design.
I'll let you all know how it works once I'm home and check my mail!


----------



## Mega Man

glad to have that taken care of, i am sure he has severely tested the designs though he is really good about it hopefully you guys will start to have more faith in him !~


----------



## Whisperlude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> I've been out of town the past few days and unable to post updates (still out of town, actually), but i got an email from Alex so I figured i'd keep you all in the loop:
> He confirmed that the new design is threadless, but he also said that they had revised the cap design since I had received mine, and he is shipping me a new cap with the improved design.
> I'll let you all know how it works once I'm home and check my mail!


I still don't understand the point of this design... I really don't...


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whisperlude*
> 
> I still don't understand the point of this design... I really don't...


I believe the reason for the design is that many of the caps were getting stuck and you practically had to break the tube to remove them. I will be more than happy with the current design so long as it doesn't leak.


----------



## Whisperlude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I believe the reason for the design is that many of the caps were getting stuck and you practically had to break the tube to remove them. I will be more than happy with the current design so long as it doesn't leak.


That's my major concern. I imagine having to move my computer and the end caps literally just coming off and ruining my whole computer. Also, just leaking in general... Please try and test this when you receive your res if possible.


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whisperlude*
> 
> That's my major concern. I imagine having to move my computer and the end caps literally just coming off and ruining my whole computer. Also, just leaking in general... Please try and test this when you receive your res if possible.


I will, and I will post a nice review here as well. I still have high hopes for the res. I really do.


----------



## darwing

can I join


----------



## Hokies83

Still waiting on my dam light...


----------



## feniks

thanks for getting back to me.

huh, already told them that I have silver, besides even the Bitspower Shiny Silver compression fittings suggest there would be silver in it









I read those Koolance disclaimers and it seems neither applies to me.
I use only distilled water, so colored after-market coolants are not a problem here (I see they would void warranty instantly if I used them).
Also there is no bare aluminum nor nickel in the loop, so the corrosion shouldn't be a problem either. But I can see now why Koolance tech asked me to open up the pump and send pics.
they said opening the pump will not void the warranty (since they are ones asking for it) and neither the sleeved wiring does (I sleeved wires on my pump, they said it's OK), so will see how it goes.

After lengthy research on all components, it appears that all my blocks are copper only, one radiator is copper (acool Monsta) while other (XSPC EX360) is brass+copper and all of fittings/plugs are silver plated or chrome plated. nothing else in the loop save for IandH silver kill coil (Koolance knows about it as I told them).
Came up that FQPC stop fittings are chrome plated, I was afraid they were nickel.

tomorrow, if times allows, will open up the PMP-450S and see what there is, I will be pissed if there is corrosion inside and Koolance voids the warranty on that basis ... what if their pump corroded alone due to some factory defect?
switching to a used out of warranty Swiftech MCP655-B pump anyways for now, 2 year old one (same kind as I have) LOL, but I need something to run my rig on while fooling around with Koolance support...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> part 1 dont ever tell them you have silver.
> 
> source
> it is on every product page i know of on koolance,
> 
> part 2 wouldnt opening up your pump oic the warranty ??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> part 3
> if nickel plating fell off isnt it koolances fault anywho ?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Regarding the owners' club. I will be taking over the thread sometime in the future and will add everyone to the spread sheet. Derrick is busy atm and I am studying for finals so it will be at least two weeks or so.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Regarding the owners' club. I will be taking over the thread sometime in the future and will add everyone to the spread sheet. Derrick is busy atm and I am studying for finals so it will be at least two weeks or so.


cool thanks alot !~


----------



## darwing

I just finished the case cover (except the black rubbing trimming on the metal lining) but it looks amazing with the cover on! I finishe dthe cable management at the back (I cant believe it closed!)







Just gotta add the black rubber trimming around the edges of the metal and Im done!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Now that's a nice mod. Show me a picture of that fish tank.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I just finished the case cover (except the black rubbing trimming on the metal lining) but it looks amazing with the cover on! I finishe dthe cable management at the back (I cant believe it closed!)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just gotta add the black rubber trimming around the edges of the metal and Im done!


LOL you should actually see the other side of the room, there is a 55 GALLON fish tank along the wall that is going to house salt water fish with coral etc









but yea Im really happy with my build, into an antec 900 case, no wires and two radiators (dual cross flow) and a single 120MM all in push pull config









The Core Reactor Build Log


----------



## Mega Man

looks great


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> looks great


Thanks so much, Actually I have a question about the frozen Q, for some reason I'm using EK UV blue tubing, and I don't know if its the power adapter Im using, but my Helix isn't glowing... the UV middle is on but the helix isn't shining like so many on here...

you can kind of see it in my picture. why is that?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

What color did you get for your reservoir and when you bought it was it UV or?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What color did you get for your reservoir and when you bought it was it UV or?


I got the liquid fusion 250mm https://frozenqshop.com/index.php/lf250.html

There was no where to specify the helix being uv, the cathode is uv...

I'm using ek uv blue coolant http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-uv-blue-premix-1000ml.html

My second question is what are u using to power the res? I was able to plug it into the box that came with the uv light I purchased but would like to get another box that has 3 plugs for uv attachments... Is there any power needs or specific power connections?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

It just runs off a 12V rail. As for the reason it isn't glowing as you would like, EK UV isn't the greatest dye around. (Mayhems' fanboy here.)

Also know that the dye and the helix are so thick that the UV cathode doesn't produce enough lumens to light up the entire reservoir. Try taking a picture for us in the dark so we can get a better look. Or the other problem might lie from that your inverter isn't strong enough to power two cathodes. Forgive me if I misunderstand.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> It just runs off a 12V rail. As for the reason it isn't glowing as you would like, EK UV isn't the greatest dye around. (Mayhems' fanboy here.)
> 
> Also know that the dye and the helix are so thick that the UV cathode doesn't produce enough lumens to light up the entire reservoir. Try taking a picture for us in the dark so we can get a better look. Or the other problem might lie from that your inverter isn't strong enough to power two cathodes. Forgive me if I misunderstand.


No your exactly right, where can I get a good inverter?

Here it is in pitch black room


----------



## NinjaSushi2

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27348


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=27348


Thanks!!! Any thoughts on my lack of helix glowing?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Thanks!!! Any thoughts on my lack of helix glowing?


Wiggle wire gng into res.. what foes it for mine.. wires are cheap and may have a short.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Wiggle wire gng into res.. what foes it for mine.. wires are cheap and may have a short.


really? crap is there any way of testing this besides trying to wiggle the wires?


----------



## Hokies83

Bah i was on my Ipad.. when i typed that...

But yeah ive always just wiggled the wire.


----------



## wermad

Got my order in for another bay and a replacement ccfl since the one I have just gave out for some odd reason. Can't wait


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Fun fun.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I got the liquid fusion 250mm https://frozenqshop.com/index.php/lf250.html
> 
> There was no where to specify the helix being uv, the cathode is uv...
> 
> I'm using ek uv blue coolant http://www.ekwb.com/shop/accessories/water-additives-coolants/ek-ekoolant-uv-blue-premix-1000ml.html
> 
> My second question is what are u using to power the res? I was able to plug it into the box that came with the uv light I purchased but would like to get another box that has 3 plugs for uv attachments... Is there any power needs or specific power connections?


They all come with UV cathodes unless you order something specifically. But you answered your own question here. The UV coolant is your problem. I found this out when doing testing of my own. The more UV coolant you put into your loop, the less your helix will glow. Basically the coolant is absorbing most the UV light before it reaches the helix.

But its only a problem if you dont like the look. Personally I dig the way yours looks the way it is. But if you dont wanna ditch the coolant and want your helix to glow brighter, you could figure out a way to add some more UV light.

Side note: I have a 300 gallon fresh water aquarium. Ill show you mine if you show me yours...


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> They all come with UV cathodes unless you order something specifically. But you answered your own question here. The UV coolant is your problem. I found this out when doing testing of my own. The more UV coolant you put into your loop, the less your helix will glow. Basically the coolant is absorbing most the UV light before it reaches the helix.
> 
> But its only a problem if you dont like the look. Personally I dig the way yours looks the way it is. But if you dont wanna ditch the coolant and want your helix to glow brighter, you could figure out a way to add some more UV light.
> 
> Side note: I have a 300 gallon fresh water aquarium. Ill show you mine if you show me yours...


WOW thank you so much!







okay so that explains it then, phew I was going to go out an buy another inverter thinking it wasn't getting enough power! but that does explain it, and your right I do like how mine looks, I just figured maybe it should be brighter, however I cannot take the UV fluid out because I chose all clear tubes and wanted the blue UV in the case, so I will leave it as is.

I just finished the final touches on the outer case with the rubber trimming, and the large cut out window, it doesn't even look like an antec 900 anymore!!!





My small tank, my black convict cichlid just had about 50 babies, so they are all in there for now, and I just got a 55 Gallon which Im going to make a salt water aquarium


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Actually to further that point, it's not the UV coolant but too much dark coolant. I'll show a picture of my 500ml res Alex made me tomorrow. (on my phone) In the picture my res glows just fine using only one cathode on the inside. Ive seen other pictures throughout the thread where uv coolant was added but it just never lookdd right. There is one of a dual bay res on the first few pages. (Green)

*OFF TOPIC*

As for the chiclids. If your chiclids just had frys then catch then and put them in a juvenile pen. Chiclids mouth brood (or raise their young in their mouths) and are known to eat the babies (fry). So you may have to catch the mothers and open their mouths to let the fry into the pen. Congrats on frys by the way! Having chiclids breeding is near impossible to accomplish without doing it naturally. They must first have perfect warm temps (80-84F), then gravel to dig breeding beds, and finally rocks to hide in. Also they must always be eating to kick start the breeding process.

(I've had chiclids for years.) Crawfish and Loaches go well with chiclid btw.


----------



## wermad

How long is the ccfl lasting for you guys? I was totally surprised mine gave out pretty soon. Well, can't wait for my second res to ship with the extra replacement cathode.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Mines lasted a good while till I snapped it into on accident. Luckily I have four more.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Actually to further that point, it's not the UV coolant but too much dark coolant. I'll show a picture of my 500ml res Alex made me tomorrow. (on my phone) In the picture my res glows just fine using only one cathode on the inside. Ive seen other pictures throughout the thread where uv coolant was added but it just never lookdd right. There is one of a dual bay res on the first few pages. (Green)
> 
> *OFF TOPIC*
> 
> As for the chiclids. If your chiclids just had frys then catch then and put them in a juvenile pen. Chiclids mouth brood (or raise their young in their mouths) and are known to eat the babies (fry). So you may have to catch the mothers and open their mouths to let the fry into the pen. Congrats on frys by the way! Having chiclids breeding is near impossible to accomplish without doing it naturally. They must first have perfect warm temps (80-84F), then gravel to dig breeding beds, and finally rocks to hide in. Also they must always be eating to kick start the breeding process.
> 
> (I've had chiclids for years.) Crawfish and Loaches go well with chiclid btw.


***OFF TOPIC*****

Actually Chiclid parents are amazing to raise their Fry, they take very good care of them, and yes I had two a male and female, and she build her nest by digging the rocks from a castle (I had to put stilts under it so it wouldn't fall on her) and then once the babies hatched I had to get the male out of the tank cause she was being aggressive towards him, but she has been raising them for 4 weeks now and doing an amazing job!

***ON TOPIC***

Yes if you could show me a pic without the UV liquid and a pic with it, the UV liquid I got was pretty dark so this is most likely the problem, however I do like it







I love the external res on my case it really stands out!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> ***OFF TOPIC*****
> 
> Actually Chiclid parents are amazing to raise their Fry, they take very good care of them, and yes I had two a male and female, and she build her nest by digging the rocks from a castle (I had to put stilts under it so it wouldn't fall on her) and then once the babies hatched I had to get the male out of the tank cause she was being aggressive towards him, but she has been raising them for 4 weeks now and doing an amazing job!
> 
> ***ON TOPIC***
> 
> Yes if you could show me a pic without the UV liquid and a pic with it, the UV liquid I got was pretty dark so this is most likely the problem, however I do like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the external res on my case it really stands out!


you did a very good job on that mod man. should be very very proud of the way it turned out !~


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you did a very good job on that mod man. should be very very proud of the way it turned out !~


Thanks so much man, it really means a lot to me that you guys like it, some of the people on here have so much money and just buy everything incredible and make it look so good its hard to come up with something new. but I had a vision and did all the work myself to build it, and really feel a sense of pride









Here is the video of the final build with explanations


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Thanks so much man, it really means a lot to me that you guys like it, some of the people on here have so much money and just buy everything incredible and make it look so good its hard to come up with something new. but I had a vision and did all the work myself to build it, and really feel a sense of pride
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the video of the final build with explanations


watched your vid. jus tfrom the stickers on th efans i can tell you you have Cooler master fans they have decent static pressure. makes for good rad fans !~

i love my 900v1 gonna build a pc into it just need to buy a seasonic psu ( i have one but i just prefer seasonic ) and new hd and os for it . have everything else. prolly will house a 775 cpu >:O will prolly double as a htpc


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> ***OFF TOPIC*****
> 
> Actually Chiclid parents are amazing to raise their Fry, they take very good care of them, and yes I had two a male and female, and she build her nest by digging the rocks from a castle (I had to put stilts under it so it wouldn't fall on her) and then once the babies hatched I had to get the male out of the tank cause she was being aggressive towards him, but she has been raising them for 4 weeks now and doing an amazing job!
> 
> ***ON TOPIC***
> 
> Yes if you could show me a pic without the UV liquid and a pic with it, the UV liquid I got was pretty dark so this is most likely the problem, however I do like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the external res on my case it really stands out!


Well I meant the other chiclids will eat them.

This is a custom res Alex made me for my build. (Log coming soon!)


I'm going to redo the biohazard symbol on the side and etch it with black so it silhouettes better. As you can see towards the sides the light starts to fade. I think it's just because the cathodes are so small. Maybe if we could find bigger cathodes for them it might glow brighter.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Thanks so much man, it really means a lot to me that you guys like it, some of the people on here have so much money and just buy everything incredible and make it look so good its hard to come up with something new. but I had a vision and did all the work myself to build it, and really feel a sense of pride
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the video of the final build with explanations
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Watched it and looks good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> watched your vid. jus tfrom the stickers on th efans i can tell you you have Cooler master fans they have decent static pressure. makes for good rad fans !~
> 
> i love my 900v1 gonna build a pc into it just need to buy a seasonic psu ( i have one but i just prefer seasonic ) and new hd and os for it . have everything else. prolly will house a 775 cpu >:O will prolly double as a htpc


Depends on the type of fan he has will determine his static pressure. On another note SeaSonic is a pain in the rear to sleeve so if you plan on sleeving cables I'd advise a Corsair series or Silverstone. (Silverstone is glorious.)










Here is an explanation of static pressure.

Post 2639


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> watched your vid. jus tfrom the stickers on th efans i can tell you you have Cooler master fans they have decent static pressure. makes for good rad fans !~
> 
> i love my 900v1 gonna build a pc into it just need to buy a seasonic psu ( i have one but i just prefer seasonic ) and new hd and os for it . have everything else. prolly will house a 775 cpu >:O will prolly double as a htpc


Yeah man you are right I am using the cooler master series







your good!!! ? Lol

Yea the antec was a breakthrough in cases at the time, one of the first to bling out ur case, it has enough room if you plan and cut and have paitience with what u want to do for it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Well I meant the other chiclids will eat them.
> 
> This is a custom res Alex made me for my build. (Log coming soon!)


Omg man that looks unreal!!! Insta sub when you start that log!!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

lol Thanks. As soon as final are over I'll do a log. I've been meaning to do it for months but school and clubs at school are taking up my time. (President and founder of the Computer Club and running for President of Student Government!) *VOTE FOR ME!!! I AM NOT A CROOK!*


----------



## Frozen-Q

Just a quick post to clarify a few things:

- We did switch to the compression style tubes about a month ago. I know some people are complaining about it, but at the same time more people complained about the threaded tubes. Doing it this way provides a cleaner looking reservoir, that isn't prone to some of the cracking issues with various types of threaded tubes. Additionally, unlike threaded caps, it allows the side ports to be rotated as necessary.

- Originally they had two o-rings in each cap, because we assumed a double seal was more efficient. We only shipped about 10 custom reservoirs this way. Some worked, and some didn't, as the play it gives can cause the caps to come off under pressure. So immediately they were redesigned with one o-ring, and so that once the tube is past the o-ring, it actually snaps into the cap, preventing it from coming out. We've pressure tested them with this design up to 80psi without problems.

- Should you have one of these with the two o-rings, working or not, please contact us for an immediate replacement.

- I see some people complaining about delays again, and I just want to clarify, that while I don't like to make excuses, our guy who runs production had a personal emergency and ended up being out two weeks last month. It set us behind tremendously, but we've quickly rebounded. All orders are now shipping within 1-5 business days, including custom reservoirs.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask away or shoot me a PM or email.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

See! I told you guys there was a good reason. Hahaha. Just didn't know why.


----------



## Mega Man

sorry to hear that fq glad things are back ill re send you my questions now. let me know if i can help you out in any way, thanks for your awesome services!~ i for one have nothing but good to say


----------



## Oliver1234

I'm debating whether to get one of these, and I have two questions: 1. Do you have do buy something seperatly to get all the lighting to work (inverter?), and 2. These resivoirs have been known to leak, is there quality sturdy in general, and has anybody encountered a leak? Thanks!!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry to hear that fq glad things are back ill re send you my questions now. let me know if i can help you out in any way, thanks for your awesome services!~ i for one have nothing but good to say


Thank you! I'll check my PM's shortly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oliver1234*
> 
> I'm debating whether to get one of these, and I have two questions: 1. Do you have do buy something seperatly to get all the lighting to work (inverter?), and 2. These resivoirs have been known to leak, is there quality sturdy in general, and has anybody encountered a leak? Thanks!!


You will need to add the inverter for the internal cathode. However, if you have an existing light kit it should certainly work.

As far as quality goes, I'll be honest, the first generation did have a lot of leaking issues. However since we switched to the compression light tube seals, we've had 3 RMA's over about 1600 units for leaks from the light tube, 2 of which the o-ring was torn.

Since we've switched to the compression seal for the main tube (revised version), I haven't had any reported leaks out of about 200 units sold.

So statistically, this has fared much better.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oliver1234*
> 
> I'm debating whether to get one of these, and I have two questions: 1. Do you have do buy something seperatly to get all the lighting to work (inverter?), and 2. These resivoirs have been known to leak, is there quality sturdy in general, and has anybody encountered a leak? Thanks!!


if you leak test as you should anyway you wont have a problem ( please see my after thoughts for continuation )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Thank you! I'll check my PM's shortly.
> You will need to add the inverter for the internal cathode. However, if you have an existing light kit it should certainly work.
> 
> As far as quality goes, I'll be honest, the first generation did have a lot of leaking issues. However since we switched to the compression light tube seals, we've had 3 RMA's over about 1600 units for leaks from the light tube, 2 of which the o-ring was torn.
> 
> Since we've switched to the compression seal for the main tube (revised version), I haven't had any reported leaks out of about 200 units sold.
> 
> So statistically, this has fared much better.


as always beyond awesome service from him. even before i bought something he was an amazing help to me

after thoughts.

simply put out of 10 i would give him a 15 or 20 for the service i get from him. always patient and always there to back his products. may not sound like much but i look fo rthis when buying products. he has always taken care of any problems i know. sometimes you do just need to wait. i know it isnt the funnest thing in the world but it is part of life. he will take care of your rma

on a personal note i told him i broke BOTH of my mounts. both. and i also said it was my fault. he offered me a new set for free. it happens he now has a new style of mounting. but still. it was my fault and he offered them for free. no shipping no nothing. just free.
simply amazing. i was also interested in a few more ports, i offered to pay. he said he would add them for free. how amazing. i am simply blown away.

if you guys dont like dealing with this goto a big box company. if you want something that looks amazing buy from him. if you want support like none other... buy from him. granted he sometimes takes break ( good for him, everyone needs a break esp with his level of stress ) so it may take time. but it will be taken care of.

if you need to rma it ... then do it he will make it right.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Yep. I look at Alex for all my tube reservoirs and Druid for any crazy, gnarly bay reservoir I could think of. (Have yet to by from Druid as of yet.)









As always A+ service from FrozenQ imo. He even did a temp etch on my custom res so I know where to acid etch and paint it.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Yep. I look at Alex for all my tube reservoirs and Druid for any crazy, gnarly bay reservoir I could think of. (Have yet to by from Druid as of yet.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As always A+ service from FrozenQ imo. He even did a temp etch on my custom res so I know where to acid etch and paint it.


My service with Alex was unreal, I emailed him, his response was quick and he even had suggestions, as well when I ordered he shipped it the next day!! he is truly great at what he does and I recommend one of these for anyone!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Sorry about any grammatical errors. Very tired here.


----------



## MRDcanadian

hey guys here is a few pic of my quad helix reservoir. it's from he previous revision and VERY hard to unscrew but no leaks







. when i have a proper video camera i'll post a video with the middle port use as a return for the waterfall effect. yes i have realized that with liquid that isn't transparent the UV effect is very much less evident to the point where mine almost looks pinkishh. actually considering switching from mayhem pastel to another coolant for this reason (and the fact i can't seam to get the orange color i want with dyes). hope you enjoyed


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MRDcanadian*
> 
> hey guys here is a few pic of my quad helix reservoir. it's from he previous revision and VERY hard to unscrew but no leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . when i have a proper video camera i'll post a video with the middle port use as a return for the waterfall effect. yes i have realized that with liquid that isn't transparent the UV effect is very much less evident to the point where mine almost looks pinkishh. actually considering switching from mayhem pastel to another coolant for this reason (and the fact i can't seam to get the orange color i want with dyes). hope you enjoyed


now im totally sold on the quad helix res that looks sweet!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

If you want, pm Alex and he'll exchange your res for the new revision for free.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> now im totally sold on the quad helix res that looks sweet!


Hmmm I still like the original I like the defined space between the helix


----------



## wermad

(sigh) my second bay res is coming in this week but I switched cases and I can only accommodate one bay res. it'll be up for sale soon.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Been there. I have a bay reservoir and parts I have yet to use. Haha.


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Just a quick post to clarify a few things:
> 
> - We did switch to the compression style tubes about a month ago. I know some people are complaining about it, but at the same time more people complained about the threaded tubes. Doing it this way provides a cleaner looking reservoir, that isn't prone to some of the cracking issues with various types of threaded tubes. Additionally, unlike threaded caps, it allows the side ports to be rotated as necessary.
> 
> - Originally they had two o-rings in each cap, because we assumed a double seal was more efficient. We only shipped about 10 custom reservoirs this way. Some worked, and some didn't, as the play it gives can cause the caps to come off under pressure. So immediately they were redesigned with one o-ring, and so that once the tube is past the o-ring, it actually snaps into the cap, preventing it from coming out. We've pressure tested them with this design up to 80psi without problems.
> 
> - Should you have one of these with the two o-rings, working or not, please contact us for an immediate replacement.
> 
> - I see some people complaining about delays again, and I just want to clarify, that while I don't like to make excuses, our guy who runs production had a personal emergency and ended up being out two weeks last month. It set us behind tremendously, but we've quickly rebounded. All orders are now shipping within 1-5 business days, including custom reservoirs.
> 
> If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask away or shoot me a PM or email.


This is excellent news. My reservoir should be in tomorrow. Thanks for the information on the switch from threaded to compression!

I look forward to being able to post some pictures here in the next few days.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Cool, cool. We can add you just as soon as Derick passes the torch to me. She's been busy and I have finals.


----------



## SwiftDW

Just an update, after receiving the new revision cap that Alex(frozenq) sent me, the res no longer leaks! leak tested it for almost 24h now and not a drop of water has escaped, so I can confirm the new design works so long as you get the correct cap!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Cool cool. PTFE tape always helps too.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MRDcanadian*
> 
> hey guys here is a few pic of my quad helix reservoir. it's from he previous revision and VERY hard to unscrew but no leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . when i have a proper video camera i'll post a video with the middle port use as a return for the waterfall effect. yes i have realized that with liquid that isn't transparent the UV effect is very much less evident to the point where mine almost looks pinkishh. actually considering switching from mayhem pastel to another coolant for this reason (and the fact i can't seam to get the orange color i want with dyes). hope you enjoyed
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I still like looking at this res. heh


----------



## Pole04

Ok my Quad-Spiral made it in today and boy is it sexy! (Pics coming soon, tonight or tomorrow for the install, a few more days for it all filled and lit up)

The cap is the new design and I see no reason that this would come off under pressure or leak. It is well designed and similar to my AquaComputer Aqualis res in ways. Install took only 15 mins to install and would have been much faster if I didn't have to drill another hole to mount the second bracket. My ONLY complaint is that only one fill cap was included with my res. It's not a big deal though as one of the bottom ports will be acting as a drain port and will have a shutoff valve attached. I will have a full review on added to my build log once I get to see the res running with water.

Quick question, it says use the bottom port for the waterfall effect. Does this mean the bottom port in the center of the bottom cap? There are three holes and I just want to get it right.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I had that problem when I ordered from FrozenCPU (GARBAGE COMPANY). Alex sent me another thread plug for free.


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I had that problem when I ordered from FrozenCPU (GARBAGE COMPANY). Alex sent me another thread plug for free.


You know I have never had any problems with FrozenCPU. I recently switched to PPC to see how the shipping times compare though as PPC is much closer to me.

My res was ordered from FrozenQ's shop though, no middle man. Like I said, it works out for me because I don't need it.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I have a grudge against Mark. Won't go into it here but it became a constant screw up of orders for months with headaches in between. Plus any mod work was horrible, do all my own mods now.

Wonder how Alex is. I've got this super nice custom res sitting here and still waiting on Dwood. Heh. Oh well. I've been starring at this res for almost two months now.


----------



## Pole04

I am VERY frustrated....

I just finished out my loop and filled it to leak test. The entire loop was solid until water finally hit the quad spiral which was the second res in the loop. As soon as it did, it started slowly leaking out the bottom...

It seems that you cannot use Bitpower compression fittings on ANY of the side-of-cap ports on this res. The fat lip on the compression fitting prevents the O-ring from creating a seal by less than a millimeter. I had a drain line running from one, and the other led to my motherboard block. Both were leaking VERY slowly. Upon further examination I can actually see that nice green O-ring on the compression fitting through the gap.

So I am completely shut down for the next two days unless I remove the res from the loop, which I don't have the extra tubing to do...

Not happy atm...

/rant done...


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I am VERY frustrated....
> 
> I just finished out my loop and filled it to leak test. The entire loop was solid until water finally hit the quad spiral which was the second res in the loop. As soon as it did, it started slowly leaking out the bottom...
> 
> It seems that you cannot use Bitpower compression fittings on ANY of the side-of-cap ports on this res. The fat lip on the compression fitting prevents the O-ring from creating a seal by less than a millimeter. I had a drain line running from one, and the other led to my motherboard block. Both were leaking VERY slowly. Upon further examination I can actually see that nice green O-ring on the compression fitting through the gap.
> 
> So I am completely shut down for the next two days unless I remove the res from the loop, which I don't have the extra tubing to do...
> 
> Not happy atm...
> 
> /rant done...


dude, I got my frozen like a month ago, I have bitspower compression fittings in the side ports... its never leaked and been running for a month... I don't know what is the issue did you get the right 1/4 size?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I am VERY frustrated....
> 
> I just finished out my loop and filled it to leak test. The entire loop was solid until water finally hit the quad spiral which was the second res in the loop. As soon as it did, it started slowly leaking out the bottom...
> 
> It seems that you cannot use Bitpower compression fittings on ANY of the side-of-cap ports on this res. The fat lip on the compression fitting prevents the O-ring from creating a seal by less than a millimeter. I had a drain line running from one, and the other led to my motherboard block. Both were leaking VERY slowly. Upon further examination I can actually see that nice green O-ring on the compression fitting through the gap.
> 
> So I am completely shut down for the next two days unless I remove the res from the loop, which I don't have the extra tubing to do...
> 
> Not happy atm...
> 
> /rant done...


Easy fix bro don't fret!! Go run to home depot or lowes and buy some PTFE plumbers tape. Use it on the threads of the fittings and problem solved!









http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_seal_tape


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I am VERY frustrated....
> 
> I just finished out my loop and filled it to leak test. The entire loop was solid until water finally hit the quad spiral which was the second res in the loop. As soon as it did, it started slowly leaking out the bottom...
> 
> It seems that you cannot use Bitpower compression fittings on ANY of the *side*-of-cap ports on this res. The fat lip on the compression fitting prevents the O-ring from creating a seal by less than a millimeter. I had a drain line running from one, and the other led to my motherboard block. Both were leaking VERY slowly. Upon further examination I can actually see that nice green O-ring on the compression fitting through the gap.
> 
> So I am completely shut down for the next two days unless I remove the res from the loop, which I don't have the extra tubing to do...
> 
> Not happy atm...
> 
> /rant done...


Most likely the od of the compression fitting hit the cap not sealing the o-ring. Happened to me. Pretty common if you're using large fittings like od: 3/4 or 5/8. This happened on my EK res and my compression fittings 1/2x3/4. I switched to 3/8x1/2 and i cleared. The side ports are not designed for large diameter fittings. Solution:

-add an extension (best option imho)
-switch to smaller od fittings (not worth it imho)
-add a fitting w/ a small base (my Enzotechs have them).

Tbh, its not the reservoirs fault, that's a pretty common design. A lot of people go w/ the huge comperssion fittings not realizing you may run into clearance issues (I know this through a lot of experience). I eventually switched to 3/8x5/8 since its the best compromise. I haven't ran into any clearance issues (unlike the 1/2x3/4).


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Did not know that. I've only ever used 3/8-5/8.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Did not know that. I've only ever used 3/8-5/8.


My three tube Frozenq reservoirs had side ports. I discussed this w/ Alex and he mentioned that the machining can only be done to a certain extent to avoid taking off too much material. As I figured, he recommended extension to clear large od fittings.

Here's the ek, the red arrows point at the machining to make the ports flat/flush. This can be done to a certain depth. anything wider would require machining more towards the center of the cap:


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Most likely the od of the compression fitting hit the cap not sealing the o-ring. Happened to me. Pretty common if you're using large fittings like od: 3/4 or 5/8. This happened on my EK res and my compression fittings 1/2x3/4. I switched to 3/8x1/2 and i cleared. The side ports are not designed for large diameter fittings. Solution:
> 
> -add an extension (best option imho)
> -switch to smaller od fittings (not worth it imho)
> -add a fitting w/ a small base (my Enzotechs have them).
> 
> Tbh, its not the reservoirs fault, that's a pretty common design. A lot of people go w/ the huge comperssion fittings not realizing you may run into clearance issues (I know this through a lot of experience). I eventually switched to 3/8x5/8 since its the best compromise. I haven't ran into any clearance issues (unlike the 1/2x3/4).


I use Bitpower G1/4 1/2"ID 3/4OD compression fittings

It is the OD of the compressions fitting causing the problems. I often forget that I am using some of the largest compression fittings on the market. I guess I am mostly just peeved there wasn't any type of warning. The Aqualis I bought had plenty of talk about needing extensions if you were using larger fittings. If I had known, I would have ordered the extensions LONG ago. As of now, I sit for another 4 days waiting on parts after waiting a month for the res to get here. Like I said, I am just frustrated. This res has held my build up for the last two weeks. I could have just removed this res from the loop if I had known before I cut all the tubing, but I cut the last of my tubing to fit it in last night.

The way that EK res is machined you would have to remove too much extra material. This res is a bit different. The port has a counter sink around it, it isn't milled out in a hump like that one. If the "counter sink" or what ever it would be called was two millimeters larger this wouldn't be a problem. But I do understand, you can't match every part on the market. Perhaps you should match a part as common as these though.

Anywho, sorry I just had to vent or I was going to throw the whole thing into the middle of the street.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I use Bitpower G1/4 1/2"ID 3/4OD compression fittings
> 
> It is the OD of the compressions fitting causing the problems. I often forget that I am using some of the largest compression fittings on the market. I guess I am mostly just peeved there wasn't any type of warning. The Aqualis I bought had plenty of talk about needing extensions if you were using larger fittings. If I had known, I would have ordered the extensions LONG ago. As of now, I sit for another 4 days waiting on parts after waiting a month for the res to get here. Like I said, I am just frustrated. This res has held my build up for the last two weeks. I could have just removed this res from the loop if I had known before I cut all the tubing, but I cut the last of my tubing to fit it in last night.
> 
> The way that EK res is machined you would have to remove too much extra material. This res is a bit different. The port has a counter sink around it, it isn't milled out in a hump like that one. If the "counter sink" or what ever it would be called was two millimeters larger this wouldn't be a problem. But I do understand, you can't match every part on the market. Perhaps you should match a part as common as these though.
> 
> Anywho, sorry I just had to vent or I was going to throw the whole thing into the middle of the street.












We need pics of your quad helix!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need pics of your quad helix!!!!!!!!!!!!!


YES PLEASE


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> YES PLEASE


I will post some install pics later tonight when I am home. I won't have it lit up until Friday or Saturday. But they are coming, I promise!


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I will post some install pics later tonight when I am home. I won't have it lit up until Friday or Saturday. But they are coming, I promise!


But I can't wait that long! What liquid are you using?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I will post some install pics later tonight when I am home. I won't have it lit up until Friday or Saturday. But they are coming, I promise!


SOMETHING SOMETHING SOMETHING EXCLAMATION POINT!!!


----------



## Pole04

Ok I got tied up last night, but as promised here are my initial photos.

I will be posting final pictures once it is filled and working. I will also be posting a review on my build log.

I plan am using Primochill Advanced tubing and will have a light mixture of Mayhem's Deep Red running through it. I may play around with different liquids later, but the build colors are red, deep red, black and grey.


----------



## Valgaur

250mm res right? also what color is htat orange or red? looks orange ish to my..... also what color helix would go well with white pastel liquid? black?

looks really nice btw imma look into your log


----------



## wermad

This was your issue. Just get em extensions on there









Quote:


>


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This was your issue. Just get em extensions on there


Exactly! That's why I took the shot. I have the extensions on order, and they should make it in tomorrow. I will be putting them in place then, and then test again on Saturday. Hopefully I will have some time to get things in a semi-complete state this weekend. I am waiting to add water cooled GPUs and quite a bit more to the build, so the tubing and routing are still a major WIP and will be for the next few months.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> 250mm res right? also what color is htat orange or red? looks orange ish to my..... also what color helix would go well with white pastel liquid? black?
> 
> looks really nice btw imma look into your log


Yes it's a 250mm, that's the only size the Quad comes in on the shop. The res is red. The photos don't capture the color perfectly. I will have to play with some settings on the camera when I take the finals and see if I can get a better color balance. I may see if he can custom make a larger res in the future, but I have quite a few things to purchase before then. Pastels will cover the res and make it hardly show up. Black res with white pastel will likely show a bit, but don't take my word for it. Just a note on my build log. I am updating it as time permits and with school and work, I am a bit behind on the log. I am hoping to get caught up this weekend while I leak test.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> Exactly! That's why I took the shot. I have the extensions on order, and they should make it in tomorrow. I will be putting them in place then, and then test again on Saturday. Hopefully I will have some time to get things in a semi-complete state this weekend. I am waiting to add water cooled GPUs and quite a bit more to the build, so the tubing and routing are still a major WIP and will be for the next few months.
> Yes it's a 250mm, that's the only size the Quad comes in on the shop. The res is red. The photos don't capture the color perfectly. I will have to play with some settings on the camera when I take the finals and see if I can get a better color balance. I may see if he can custom make a larger res in the future, but I have quite a few things to purchase before then. Pastels will cover the res and make it hardly show up. Black res with white pastel will likely show a bit, but don't take my word for it. Just a note on my build log. I am updating it as time permits and with school and work, I am a bit behind on the log. I am hoping to get caught up this weekend while I leak test.


I'm asking Alex right now if a 400mm is possible... as that would be pretty sick! for my build I dont even know if I'll turn the UV light on lol but the white on black would look pretty sick I think, dont you? the black will match the gpu blocks and the rads, then the copper blocks will match the copper tubing (asking bitspower if any of their 3/8th's OD fitting will be able to make a watertight seal on copper tubing.....) and then match the wood colors.

The white color can change but I think it would look pretty neat, might try some other colors what do you guys think would work for liquids?


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> I'm asking Alex right now if a 400mm is possible... as that would be pretty sick! for my build I dont even know if I'll turn the UV light on lol but the white on black would look pretty sick I think, dont you? the black will match the gpu blocks and the rads, then the copper blocks will match the copper tubing (asking bitspower if any of their 3/8th's OD fitting will be able to make a watertight seal on copper tubing.....) and then match the wood colors.
> 
> The white color can change but I think it would look pretty neat, might try some other colors what do you guys think would work for liquids?


Personally I am using distilled water and mixing in Mayhem's Glycol mixture. I don't know too much about liquids, but my research led me there. I am still learning a lot of the water cooling nuances as this is my first WC build.

I like the Black and White idea. It should look pretty sharp with copper tubing.


----------



## Valgaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> Personally I am using distilled water and mixing in Mayhem's Glycol mixture. I don't know too much about liquids, but my research led me there. I am still learning a lot of the water cooling nuances as this is my first WC build.
> 
> I like the Black and White idea. It should look pretty sharp with copper tubing.


Thank you sir, yeah there is a lot of learning to do as I've been preparing for this one for a while now... this is my first as well. just trying to get everything worked out correctly.

everybody learns at their own pace, and must accept it


----------



## MRDcanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I still like looking at this res. heh


Thank you sir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> If you want, pm Alex and he'll exchange your res for the new revision for free.


are you serious? this would solve my issue will aligning the ports


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Yeah. Forcerealous. Alex stated anyone who doesn't have the new revision that he'll exchange it for free. He doesn't want anyone's rigged damaged by his products for one. Haha. Also customer service is another big issue he takes head on.


----------



## Cole S

Hey guys, I'm looking into re-doing my loop and I love the look of these reservoirs. However after reading through some of this thread it seems that there are (or were) some seriously quality/shipping issues. Can anyone speak to the status of this right now?

Also, does anyone have any experience with the Quad Spiral? I haven't been able to find any good pics or videos of it in action.

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

mine has no quaility issues what so ever


----------



## Pole04

I really hate to be all doom and gloom....

I promise I really do. I love these little reservoirs, they are what made me want to start water cooling.

BUT I have bad news. The new revision caps, assuming that is what I have based off the post Alex made, DO NOT WORK.

I will make a larger post with pictures and video in the next hour or two. I am busy removing my quad helix from the loop and re-running tubing to leak test. I can't afford to wait more time for one part any longer. I will be trying to resolve things with Alex and I will add the reservoir back in when I add the GPUs or the Aquacomputer to my loop.

I should have the post up in an hour or two, just give me a bit of time.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cole S*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking into re-doing my loop and I love the look of these reservoirs. However after reading through some of this thread it seems that there are (or were) some seriously quality/shipping issues. Can anyone speak to the status of this right now?
> 
> Also, does anyone have any experience with the Quad Spiral? I haven't been able to find any good pics or videos of it in action.
> 
> Thanks!


There were some issues in the past but they have been resolved now. There has been a number of revisions to the reservoirs over the past year(s) and now the threadless design offers the best support for the user and is stable at 80+ psi pressure. So there is no possibility of it coming off unintentionally.

As for shipping: Alex had been in the process of moving to a larger location in the course of the past year. As a small company with very large and heavy machines with few employees, then can be trouble some. By now he is officially moved into the new facility and fully operational again. There had been some hicups here and there with one of the main employees being out on a family emergency, another one being very sick for two weeks (if I recall that correctly), and a few problems with the new email system, etc. Pretty much normal business stuff just at an inconvenient time span.

If you have any other questions feel free to pm me.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> I really hate to be all doom and gloom....
> 
> I promise I really do. I love these little reservoirs, they are what made me want to start water cooling.
> 
> BUT I have bad news. The new revision caps, assuming that is what I have based off the post Alex made, DO NOT WORK.
> 
> I will make a larger post with pictures and video in the next hour or two. I am busy removing my quad helix from the loop and re-running tubing to leak test. I can't afford to wait more time for one part any longer. I will be trying to resolve things with Alex and I will add the reservoir back in when I add the GPUs or the Aquacomputer to my loop.
> 
> I should have the post up in an hour or two, just give me a bit of time.


Yes. I am curious to see the problem. I hope nothing in your PC has been compromised by all means.


----------



## Mega Man

as do i !~


----------



## Pole04

Everything is fine with my components. Not much water splattered out when the top popped off. I was able to turn off the pumps quick enough, but you can see in the video, the water almost overflows.

I am trying to convert the video now and I will get it posted to my youtube account. Shouldn't be too much longer. My leak test is going quite well. I can't believe how quite it is with just the pumps running!


----------



## Pole04

Ok a bit of quick explanation to start off with. I added in the extension which of course did the trick perfectly, stopping the leak around the overly large compression fittings. I filled the Auqalis reservoir and let the water spread through the system so I could get just a bit of water into the Quad-Helix reservoir and then I tested it.

The first test ran for about a minute before a LOUD pop and the top came off the reservoir. I stopped the pumps and then grabbed the camera and set it up to record.

Please pardon the quality of this video, I was shooting it on my Panasonic Lumix and it's the first time I have used it for video. Also I couldn't do any editing as all my video software is on my computer which is in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Itjc0fnEjWI&feature=youtu.be

I tried it twice in the video. The first time the cap was on pretty good, but the second time I made sure the cap was fully seated. As you can see, after a few moments the cap comes off.

Below are some pictures I snapped of the res. In the last photo you can see the groove that the tube slides into and towards the lip of the cap, you can see the o-ring that is supposed to hold this all in place.








FrozenQ- You are going to have to do something different to secure these caps. I know I run a higher pressure system, but my setup is pretty well standard. Two MCP-655s with a Bitpower dual pump top run directly after a res (the Aqualis) then through a 360mm reservoir and into the Quad-Helix reservoir. The loop then continues through the motherboard and CPU and exits to a 420mm radiator and back into the Aqualis. After leak testing for an hour and a half now without the Quad-Helix in the loop, I am having no problems what so ever.

I will be sending e-mails, and PMs to the appropriate places to see what I can get done about this. I truly want to be able to use this res in my setup. Hell I was considering asking about having a larger one made, but first they need to be fixed (again).

-Pole


----------



## grimmy

howdy

i have a 400ml res version 2 i believe o ring and thread caps. i got mine about a year ago and ive had to remove the caps to change them to caps with more holes for my set up. the ONLY problem i had was the caps were on so dam well( kinda of a good thing) i have no issues with my res as long as you are not a brute the res is fine and will not break imo. im actually glad i have the threaded caps and not the new pop ones







. my loop has been drained a few times and still works fine alex makes great parts i believe




also made me the haunter







thanks again


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grimmy*
> 
> howdy
> 
> i have a 400ml res version 2 i believe o ring and thread caps. i got mine about a year ago and ive had to remove the caps to change them to caps with more holes for my set up. the ONLY problem i had was the caps were on so dam well( kinda of a good thing) i have no issues with my res as long as you are not a brute the res is fine and will not break imo. im actually glad i have the threaded caps and not the new pop ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . my loop has been drained a few times and still works fine alex makes great parts i believe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also made me the haunter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks again


Wow that looks spectacular! I am completely in favor of having threads again. The tube is pretty sturdy and like you said, if you aren't being a brute with it, it shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## Cole S

Alright guys I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these res's. I'm stuck between the 250mm blue quad spiral and the 250mm double helix. Does anyone have any suggestions? I haven't been able to find many pictures of the quad up and running.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Ok a bit of quick explanation to start off with. I added in the extension which of course did the trick perfectly, stopping the leak around the overly large compression fittings. I filled the Auqalis reservoir and let the water spread through the system so I could get just a bit of water into the Quad-Helix reservoir and then I tested it.
> 
> The first test ran for about a minute before a LOUD pop and the top came off the reservoir. I stopped the pumps and then grabbed the camera and set it up to record.
> 
> Please pardon the quality of this video, I was shooting it on my Panasonic Lumix and it's the first time I have used it for video. Also I couldn't do any editing as all my video software is on my computer which is in the video.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Itjc0fnEjWI&feature=youtu.be
> 
> I tried it twice in the video. The first time the cap was on pretty good, but the second time I made sure the cap was fully seated. As you can see, after a few moments the cap comes off.
> 
> Below are some pictures I snapped of the res. In the last photo you can see the groove that the tube slides into and towards the lip of the cap, you can see the o-ring that is supposed to hold this all in place.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FrozenQ- You are going to have to do something different to secure these caps. I know I run a higher pressure system, but my setup is pretty well standard. Two MCP-655s with a Bitpower dual pump top run directly after a res (the Aqualis) then through a 360mm reservoir and into the Quad-Helix reservoir. The loop then continues through the motherboard and CPU and exits to a 420mm radiator and back into the Aqualis. After leak testing for an hour and a half now without the Quad-Helix in the loop, I am having no problems what so ever.
> 
> 
> 
> I will be sending e-mails, and PMs to the appropriate places to see what I can get done about this. I truly want to be able to use this res in my setup. Hell I was considering asking about having a larger one made, but first they need to be fixed (again).
> 
> -Pole


Do me a favor if it is possible. If you still have the loop taken apart or if you have access to one or both pumps; I would like you to make a very small loop using just the pump(s) and the FrozenQ reservoir. I would like to know if that mimics the problem with the res or if it is something else in the loop causing an odd problem.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cole S*
> 
> Alright guys I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these res's. I'm stuck between the 250mm blue quad spiral and the 250mm double helix. Does anyone have any suggestions? I haven't been able to find many pictures of the quad up and running.


It's all preference really. We can't help you in that department I'm afraid.











Damn. I want a monster now.


----------



## Pole04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Do me a favor if it is possible. If you still have the loop taken apart or if you have access to one or both pumps; I would like you to make a very small loop using just the pump(s) and the FrozenQ reservoir. I would like to know if that mimics the problem with the res or if it is something else in the loop causing an odd problem.
> It's all preference really. We can't help you in that department I'm afraid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn. I want a monster now.


Lol yea I had a lot to do today. I made that disappear later.

The loop is getting dyed already, Sorry. I should have the loop apart again in 3 or 4 weeks when I get the AquaComputer. I will try it then if I haven't got things resolved. I'd like to know if something else is causing it, but I HIGHLY doubt it. The everything else in the loop has worked flawlessly. All the air was out of the lines in 2 hours and everything is running silently. I have a bit of heat in the other reservoir from the pumps, but I don't have the fans running. I will be wiring up my fans to work in the next day or so.

The first time I leak tested it, it took a full minute to come off and it was loud enough to make me jump. It came off much quicker after that. The o-ring is in good condition. It could be the grooves the tube fits in just aren't deep enough.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Maybe. Could just be defective since they are tested at ~90psi to my knowledge.


----------



## Pole04

Hmmm any idea what a pair of MCP-655's put out? I will have to do some research.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pole04*
> 
> Hmmm any idea what a pair of MCP-655's put out? I will have to do some research.


no where near 80~90 psi

your incoming water to your house is supposed to be ~ 80 psi ( in the us, assuming you live in a city not on well water ) so think of your hose @ full psi


----------



## Rainstar

Sent Frozen Q 3 PM's havent been replied in a week. Any one know which is the correct email to contact alex at? the ones on the frozenQ website are of no help.


----------



## SwiftDW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cole S*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm looking into re-doing my loop and I love the look of these reservoirs. However after reading through some of this thread it seems that there are (or were) some seriously quality/shipping issues. Can anyone speak to the status of this right now?
> 
> Also, does anyone have any experience with the Quad Spiral? I haven't been able to find any good pics or videos of it in action.
> 
> Thanks!


I was one of the people that had issues with my res. It initially had a leak when attached to my MCP655, but I contacted Alex at FrozenQ and he sent me one of the new revision caps, and I haven't had a single problem since. It passed 24 hours of leak testing and has been in use in my PC ever since.

I'd say your safe to order now that they have the cap situation figured out!


----------



## Mega Man

just keep trying he is really busy i know what oyu mean but just keep at it he will get back to you


----------



## wermad

What's frozenq's customer service email? I sent Alex a pm as they forgot my extra ccfl and its been over a week now







.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's frozenq's customer service email? I sent Alex a pm as they forgot my extra ccfl and its been over a week now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


[email protected]

https://frozenqshop.com/index.php/information.html


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainstar*
> 
> Sent Frozen Q 3 PM's havent been replied in a week. Any one know which is the correct email to contact alex at? the ones on the frozenQ website are of no help.


I'll see if I can get a hold of Alex for you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> I was one of the people that had issues with my res. It initially had a leak when attached to my MCP655, but I contacted Alex at FrozenQ and he sent me one of the new revision caps, and I haven't had a single problem since. It passed 24 hours of leak testing and has been in use in my PC ever since.
> 
> I'd say your safe to order now that they have the cap situation figured out!


That's always good to hear.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's frozenq's customer service email? I sent Alex a pm as they forgot my extra ccfl and its been over a week now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Depending on the size CCFL you need, I have about 3-4 extra lying in on of my parts bins I can send you. I originally got them for the dual bay res but they also fit my custom res so.







If you need ~ 5'25" size CCFL I can mail ya one np. Any bigger and you will just have to wait. haha

So! My finals are over! Which means I can speak to Derick about taking over the thread and updating this bad-mammah-jammah. Also I think I might call Alex sometime over the summer and see if I can get a tour of the new facility. He only lives/works ~ 2 - 3 hours east of me.









THAT'S RIGHT MEGA MAN AND WERMAD! GET JELLY!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I'll see if I can get a hold of Alex for you.
> That's always good to hear.
> Depending on the size CCFL you need, I have about 3-4 extra lying in on of my parts bins I can send you. I originally got them for the dual bay res but they also fit my custom res so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need ~ 5'25" size CCFL I can mail ya one np. Any bigger and you will just have to wait. haha
> 
> So! My finals are over! Which means I can speak to Derick about taking over the thread and updating this bad-mammah-jammah. Also I think I might call Alex sometime over the summer and see if I can get a tour of the new facility. He only lives/works ~ 2 - 3 hours east of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THAT'S RIGHT MEGA MAN AND WERMAD! GET JELLY!


i r jelly


----------



## wermad

Yes, I need the bay ccfl







. I'll wait for Alex or FrozenQ to reply first.


----------



## pwnography6

Anyone heard from Alex I was one of the unlucky ones that got the dodgy caps, Haven't heard any updates or such since my discussion with him about the issue.


----------



## Mega Man

not for ~ 1 week just keep trying to pm him


----------



## NinjaSushi2

You sure? I can mail a bulb out tomorrow or Wed with the tube that goes around it.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> You sure? I can mail a bulb out tomorrow or Wed with the tube that goes around it.


I'm in no rush since its the second unused res i have. I just want to sell it w/ the ccfl ready. I have yet to list it for sale so when I get around to do that and I've yet to get a response from FrozenQ, I'll hit you up. Thanks


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hey np. Now that my school is done, I plan to seek quite a bit of my stuff off.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Double.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Hey np. Now that my school is done, I plan to seek quite a bit of my stuff off.


Its a fluorescent blue and green black acetal dual bay res. I ended up with a smaller case a week after Alex sent me the 2nd res. I'm using the first one i got.

I'm pending a few things, if they don't fall through I'll be listing some more wc gear including the res.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I meant to type Sell. My phone does not like me and randomly chooses words and places for those words throughout me typing.


----------



## Rainstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rainstar*
> 
> Sent Frozen Q 3 PM's havent been replied in a week. Any one know which is the correct email to contact alex at? the ones on the frozenQ website are of no help.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll see if I can get a hold of Alex for you.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SwiftDW*
> 
> I was one of the people that had issues with my res. It initially had a leak when attached to my MCP655, but I contacted Alex at FrozenQ and he sent me one of the new revision caps, and I haven't had a single problem since. It passed 24 hours of leak testing and has been in use in my PC ever since.
> 
> I'd say your safe to order now that they have the cap situation figured out!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's always good to hear.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> What's frozenq's customer service email? I sent Alex a pm as they forgot my extra ccfl and its been over a week now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Depending on the size CCFL you need, I have about 3-4 extra lying in on of my parts bins I can send you. I originally got them for the dual bay res but they also fit my custom res so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you need ~ 5'25" size CCFL I can mail ya one np. Any bigger and you will just have to wait. haha
> 
> So! My finals are over! Which means I can speak to Derick about taking over the thread and updating this bad-mammah-jammah. Also I think I might call Alex sometime over the summer and see if I can get a tour of the new facility. He only lives/works ~ 2 - 3 hours east of me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> THAT'S RIGHT MEGA MAN AND WERMAD! GET JELLY!
Click to expand...

Alex is too busy to be on Overclock.net right now Just got an email from him about my reservoir. Suppose he is just answering as many emails as he can whilst working on his hundreds of custom orders.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

That seems about normal.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rainstar*
> 
> Alex is too busy to be on Overclock.net right now Just got an email from him about my reservoir. Suppose he is just answering as many emails as he can whilst working on his hundreds of custom orders.


ah the life of a small buissness owner


----------



## pwnography6

Heard nothing about mine. Pretty irritated and really regretting buying one now. Had it since March and was meant to review it for a friend's site. Won't be buying any more frozen stuff.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Wait. You heard nothing about what and have had something since march? You need to specify more.


----------



## pwnography6

Sorry mentioned it a few pages ago, got a fusion V with the 1st revision of the new caps. They leak like a sieve, talked to Alex about it, he mentioned replacements but no contact has been made since, tried him late last week again and no reply. I understand that he is swamped , too much expansion too fast perhaps.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Na. He didn't expand to fast. He the new facility is really helping him out actually. He is just very popular and trying to grow slowly but it's hard to grow slowly when everyone wants you. Remember he has a website, distributes out to other companies like FrozenCPU, Performance-PCS, etc, takes custom orders, tries to be involved on here as well as many other forums. It's a lot for one guy who is only 24.


----------



## Pavo

I'm not trying to take sides or anything.

Pwn unless you have totally given up I'm sure Sushi can help and I have seen him help tons of people.

I figure it this way.

I have dealt with problems with huge corporations all of my consumer adult life. So mistakes and quite frankly ****s up will happen.

What I like dealing with people and businesses like Alex's is that they are "small" enough where literally 1 or 2 customers really does matter. It might take longer because of the size and scale of the operation, but it will almost be guaranteed to be done.

Unlike a huge corporation, say Comcast (I work there), what's a customer or 2 .... or 1,000 when we have over 50 million subscribers! Good luck trying to fix a serious issue with Comcast most of the time.

At least with forums like this, where you can get a hold of people to help it's a nice tool.

Like I said, no sides as bad experiences can sour a business relationship very quickly.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pavo*
> 
> I'm not trying to take sides or anything.
> 
> Pwn unless you have totally given up I'm sure Sushi can help and I have seen him help tons of people.
> 
> I figure it this way.
> 
> I have dealt with problems with huge corporations all of my consumer adult life. So mistakes and quite frankly ****s up will happen.
> 
> What I like dealing with people and businesses like Alex's is that they are "small" enough where literally 1 or 2 customers really does matter. It might take longer because of the size and scale of the operation, but it will almost be guaranteed to be done.
> 
> Unlike a huge corporation, say Comcast (I work there), what's a customer or 2 .... or 1,000 when we have over 50 million subscribers! Good luck trying to fix a serious issue with Comcast most of the time.
> 
> At least with forums like this, where you can get a hold of people to help it's a nice tool.
> 
> Like I said, no sides as bad experiences can sour a business relationship very quickly.


i have a feeling as long as alex is in charge he will always make that 1 customer matter as best as he can... even swiftech still does that and they are a HUGE company the reason i am a fanboi of most of the companies i push is because of the service i get from them. i dont recommend a product that i cant say they are just that darn good about


----------



## pwnography6

I understand where you are all coming from. Iv got friends that run companies and the normal thing to do when over run with orders is getting some help that's what I meant.

As for dealing with companies in general the fusion Res had been just 1 of a heap of major watercooling parts in my build that were faulty for a grand total of like $600 worth of parts none of which I have recieved replacements or any substantial help in fixing the issue . So maybe now you can see why im ready to give up. It is not my first H20 project and Iv never ever had trouble with so many parts until now. I mean you can buy countless cheap kits with no issues but the second you go all out and buy the good stuff it leaks? That doesn't make sense.

I have watched FrozenQ grow as a company for a long time now and been a fan of his work for a number of years. I'v seen his quality go up and down and as it has been a long time since I had heard any reports about leaks, thought yeah now is the time to order.

In reality I am just happy this res was for my own personal PC, if it had been for a customer build I would be out a lot of money as weeks is a long time to have no contact and a res that doesn't work (Try explaining that to a customer). As I live in Australia you also have to remember even if Alex posted the parts out to me today Im still looking at, at least 3 weeks of the res being in the mail which changes the wait time from weeks to months.

I really have lost a lot of faith in a LOT of watercooling manufacturers during this build it has been one giant mess up.


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

I have FrozenQ X4 reservior amber
It always stays in vertical position, i dont touch it at all
I always use the distiller water, my last air cooler was thermaltake big typhoon in 2007, and i never have such problems as now!

this is my palit gtx260 and it Still Looks Good
http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_12493225psn.jpg

and this is my two gtx680 that are about 8 monts old
http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124745oapvu.jpg
http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_1247267wrom.jpg

and ram waterblock
http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124529iiqap.jpg

and all fitings and so on!
you think why i am speaking about that here, how my plexy mod(that allready gone to hel) belongs to reservior?
well
i use this reservior just with this system. after about month or two i noticed that the light from ccfl become poor! and i was very upset with this, having this reservior without light for 140$ !
yesterday i need to disassemble my system and i decided to look into reservior, to look wat da [email protected] was heppened wiht ccfl and lighting
have you any idea? it was broken? no. it was fused? No!

The bottom of CCFL tube IS COVERED WITH RUST
http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_1241333vqc7.jpghttp://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124210waoud.jpghttp://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_1243166sph2.jpg

and the ccfl TOO
http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124402wnpln.jpg

it means that this thing destroed all my plexy-nickel dreams!
water can touch the CCFL! but the ccfl have a wire outside, so water touch this wire too! the same water cooling my i7, mobo, ram, two gtx680, hard drives.. >this is realy nice, yeah?

If any representatives of FrozenQ is here, please ansver some questions for me
I think i can get awesome reservoir for 140$. why i have this junk that can rust and even damage my hardware for this 140$ !?
Have you any idea about this case ?


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAN1MAT0R*
> 
> I have FrozenQ X4 reservior amber
> It always stays in vertical position, i dont touch it at all
> I always use the distiller water, my last air cooler was thermaltake big typhoon in 2007, and i never have such problems as now!
> 
> this is my palit gtx260 and it Still Looks Good
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_12493225psn.jpg
> 
> and this is my two gtx680 that are about 8 monts old
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124745oapvu.jpg
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_1247267wrom.jpg
> 
> and ram waterblock
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124529iiqap.jpg
> 
> and all fitings and so on!
> you think why i am speaking about that here, how my plexy mod(that allready gone to hel) belongs to reservior?
> well
> i use this reservior just with this system. after about month or two i noticed that the light from ccfl become poor! and i was very upset with this, having this reservior without light for 140$ !
> yesterday i need to disassemble my system and i decided to look into reservior, to look wat da [email protected] was heppened wiht ccfl and lighting
> have you any idea? it was broken? no. it was fused? No!
> 
> The bottom of CCFL tube IS COVERED WITH RUST
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_1241333vqc7.jpghttp://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124210waoud.jpghttp://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_1243166sph2.jpg
> 
> and the ccfl TOO
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124402wnpln.jpg
> 
> it means that this thing destroed all my plexy-nickel dreams!
> water can touch the CCFL! but the ccfl have a wire outside, so water touch this wire too! the same water cooling my i7, mobo, ram, two gtx680, hard drives.. >this is realy nice, yeah?
> 
> If any representatives of FrozenQ is here, please ansver some questions for me
> I think i can get awesome reservoir for 140$. why i have this junk that can rust and even damage my hardware for this 140$ !?
> Have you any idea about this case ?


man this guy is pissed, too bad he cant speak english very well, and honestly if he just calmed down alex would replace the CCFL... dude this is not the way to get customer support


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Alright! I'm back to being active on the forum. I've been kindling my marriage with my wife now that I don't have school to distract me. haha So I'm always going on dates instead of posting on OCN.







I'll talk to Derrick about taking over the thread now too.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6*
> 
> I understand where you are all coming from. Iv got friends that run companies and the normal thing to do when over run with orders is getting some help that's what I meant.
> 
> As for dealing with companies in general the fusion Res had been just 1 of a heap of major watercooling parts in my build that were faulty for a grand total of like $600 worth of parts none of which I have recieved replacements or any substantial help in fixing the issue . So maybe now you can see why im ready to give up. It is not my first H20 project and Iv never ever had trouble with so many parts until now. I mean you can buy countless cheap kits with no issues but the second you go all out and buy the good stuff it leaks? That doesn't make sense.
> 
> I have watched FrozenQ grow as a company for a long time now and been a fan of his work for a number of years. I'v seen his quality go up and down and as it has been a long time since I had heard any reports about leaks, thought yeah now is the time to order.
> 
> In reality I am just happy this res was for my own personal PC, if it had been for a customer build I would be out a lot of money as weeks is a long time to have no contact and a res that doesn't work (Try explaining that to a customer). As I live in Australia you also have to remember even if Alex posted the parts out to me today Im still looking at, at least 3 weeks of the res being in the mail which changes the wait time from weeks to months.
> 
> I really have lost a lot of faith in a LOT of watercooling manufacturers during this build it has been one giant mess up.


Well to be frank and fair we need evidence proving that the reservoir leaked and caused the problem. Not saying there isn't a problem but it could be human error, another part or anything else. Do you have any pictures proving the reservoir is damage or caused a leak. Also how did it leak if you would have leaked tested it being as it isn't your first WCing project?

Thanks ~ Sushi.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAN1MAT0R*
> 
> I have FrozenQ X4 reservior amber
> It always stays in vertical position, i dont touch it at all
> I always use the distiller water, my last air cooler was thermaltake big typhoon in 2007, and i never have such problems as now!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> this is my palit gtx260 and it Still Looks Good
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_12493225psn.jpg
> 
> and this is my two gtx680 that are about 8 monts old
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124745oapvu.jpg
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_1247267wrom.jpg
> 
> and ram waterblock
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124529iiqap.jpg
> 
> and all fitings and so on!
> you think why i am speaking about that here, how my plexy mod(that allready gone to hel) belongs to reservior?
> well
> i use this reservior just with this system. after about month or two i noticed that the light from ccfl become poor! and i was very upset with this, having this reservior without light for 140$ !
> yesterday i need to disassemble my system and i decided to look into reservior, to look wat da [email protected] was heppened wiht ccfl and lighting
> have you any idea? it was broken? no. it was fused? No!
> 
> The bottom of CCFL tube IS COVERED WITH RUST
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_1241333vqc7.jpghttp://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124210waoud.jpghttp://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_1243166sph2.jpg
> 
> and the ccfl TOO
> http://abload.de/image.php?img=20130519_124402wnpln.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> it means that this thing destroed all my plexy-nickel dreams!
> water can touch the CCFL! but the ccfl have a wire outside, so water touch this wire too! the same water cooling my i7, mobo, ram, two gtx680, hard drives.. >this is realy nice, yeah?
> 
> If any representatives of FrozenQ is here, please ansver some questions for me
> I think i can get awesome reservoir for 140$. why i have this junk that can rust and even damage my hardware for this 140$ !?
> Have you any idea about this case ?


I am sorry but I do not quite follow. Some how your reservoir leaked and it caused your CCFL to rust? How would your CCFL rust if it is just one wire and a glass/plastic vacuum tube? Also that looks nothing like the CCFL that FrozenQ uses for their reservoirs. All their reservoirs use the same type and model CCFL only at different lengths for the different reservoirs.


----------



## Crunkles

Just got myself a FrozenQ PC Mods 250mm Liquid Fusion V Series "2nd Generation" Reservoir - UV Cathode - Fluorescent Blue Helix . Now need to find the best way to mount it in my HAF 932 while managing some great cable management... Think it's going to take me all week to get my rig back together


----------



## NinjaSushi2

lol


----------



## Mega Man

welcome man !~


----------



## pwnography6

When I originally talked to Alex about it, he explained it was a Double O-Ring design of the new caps, he told me only 10 or so went out before he changed to a single O-Ring design because the double O-Rings had a leak issue. Res was leak tested but once the pressure of the pump is added to the mix it nearly blew my bottom cap clean off. As I said Alex has all ready told me there is an issue with these caps and he would sorti it. All I want to know is what is going on with my replacements if they have been sent or not if not I think Il just RMA.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Someone else earlier in the forum mentioned a problem like that and posted a video. You might be able to find it. I'm not sure it will help but it will reassure you that you are not the only one.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6*
> 
> When I originally talked to Alex about it, he explained it was a Double O-Ring design of the new caps, he told me only 10 or so went out before he changed to a single O-Ring design because the double O-Rings had a leak issue. Res was leak tested but once the pressure of the pump is added to the mix it nearly blew my bottom cap clean off. As I said Alex has all ready told me there is an issue with these caps and he would sorti it. All I want to know is what is going on with my replacements if they have been sent or not if not I think Il just RMA.


I'll have to check back through my emails again, I don't remember seeing anything, but we did have some email troubles last week. Something with our mail servers got messed up and I didn't have email for several days.

Regardless, I will see whats going on with them today. I know I put a work order out in the shop for them.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> I'll have to check back through my emails again, I don't remember seeing anything, but we did have some email troubles last week. Something with our mail servers got messed up and I didn't have email for several days.
> 
> Regardless, I will see whats going on with them today. I know I put a work order out in the shop for them.


Hey bud. Sent you an email the other day. lol


----------



## darwing

Hey guys so Im getting new coolant cause the EK UV blue coolant with the Frozen Q blue helix sucks, it drains all the glow from the helix.

so I'm going to go with XSPC UV clear tubing, and want to have the best coolant so the helix POPS! I'm thinking any clear coolant will do, however has anyone tried UV coolant where the helix isnt smothered by the UV?

for instance Phobya ZuperZero UV Blue/Clear 1000m?? will this smother the helix like the EK dark UV BLUE did mine?

so in a nut shell, whats the best combo of coolant for the frozenQ to really shine


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Plane distilled water. Any UV coolant will mask the helix.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Plane distilled water. Any UV coolant will mask the helix.


Isnt distilled water conductive? like it will rust your parts, dont you need to get non-conductive fluid?

either way clear non-UV coolant is the way to go! so has anyone used PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Liquid Cooling Fluid clear with the frozen Q?

if you say that you can just go out and buy distilled water and that renders the same heating performance then all of these coolants?? isnt it harder to warm the cooolant then just pure water?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Isnt distilled water conductive? like it will rust your parts, dont you need to get non-conductive fluid?
> 
> either way clear non-UV coolant is the way to go! so has anyone used PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Liquid Cooling Fluid clear with the frozen Q?
> 
> if you say that you can just go out and buy distilled water and that renders the same heating performance then all of these coolants?? isnt it harder to warm the cooolant then just pure water?


Ice is junk imho. Add dye and it makes it worse.

Distilled is conductive, don't get it on your components, period. Hence why you want to avoid leaks at all cost. Triple check everything and leak test w/ your main components powered off (jump start your psu and power on the pump only).

Most water cooling parts are copper, brass, stainless steel (not widely used), plastic, plexi, and pom/acetal. If you have some SS, its usually a grade designed for water applications.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Isnt distilled water conductive? like it will rust your parts, dont you need to get non-conductive fluid?
> 
> either way clear non-UV coolant is the way to go! so has anyone used PrimoChill ICE Non-Conductive Liquid Cooling Fluid clear with the frozen Q?
> 
> if you say that you can just go out and buy distilled water and that renders the same heating performance then all of these coolants?? isnt it harder to warm the cooolant then just pure water?


see below
but yes it makes heat rejection harder
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Ice is junk imho. Add dye and it makes it worse.
> 
> Distilled is conductive, don't get it on your components, period. Hence why you want to avoid leaks at all cost. Triple check everything and leak test w/ your main components powered off (jump start your psu and power on the pump only).
> 
> Most water cooling parts are copper, brass, stainless steel (not widely used), plastic, plexi, and pom/acetal. If you have some SS, its usually a grade designed for water applications.


mostly true. i dont comment on if it is junk as i dont use it

ALL coolants used will be conductive. ( see here for proof )

only thing to worry about is galvanic corrosion ( great reads btw ) only real reason to use antifreeze
i would never recommend aluminum in a loop.... ever for this reason ( above ) and the fact that copper does so much better to reject heat.

only other reason to use colored coolants is personal choice, and that is the only good one imo.

however almost all dies are made from solids
it really is your choice on what you want to use. but most heat removal will be with plain old water + biocide

warming the coolant is not the problem... it gets difficult to explain ( when i just woke up from a nap ) if you want i can go into it better later... but martins has some great reads to answer these questions.


----------



## wermad

I tried Ice. Very bad and just a waste of money. Went with distilled water after ignoring the recommendations. Never turned back. Its cheap and readily available. You can buy good dyes these days (mayhems) to get your color fix


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> only thing to worry about is galvanic corrosion ( great reads btw ) only real reason to use antifreeze
> i would never recommend aluminum in a loop.... ever for this reason ( above ) and the fact that copper does so much better to reject heat.
> 
> only other reason to use colored coolants is personal choice, and that is the only good one imo.


okay this is great info!

SO basically I DO have an aluminum in my loop! my 12mm rad is aluminum! my dual 120mm is Copper and Brass Core... so I do NEED non-conductive fluid then right?

so then maybe this will work?? Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O


----------



## NinjaSushi2

No.







heheh. Post what rad you have btw.

Non-Conductive is a fancy way of say there is a resistance to electricity. Electricity accels in high electrolyte filled water or anything else that helps act as a conduit. Hence why salt water has a very high resistance to electricity because there is so much salt and other minerals that resist it's flow. (I'm not saying use salt water either. hahaha) Also true non-conductive would be deionized water.

Anyways distilled water is actually has a low conductivity as well. This is why you will see it mentioned around the forums very often. In regards to the post Mega Man posted, Martin is a very famous water cooling enthusiast around the interwebs. Water cooling is a small community in the grand scheme of things so when someone steps up and makes a break-through, people tend to notice. As Martin said distilled water is the cheapest and best solution considering almost anyone can get there hands on distilled water.

In regards to Mayhem (Mick). I've asked him about his H20 before and it mostly pertains to people in Europe where the water quality may not be as high as it is here in the United States. So Mick had contracted out his own version of distilled water which is as good as it is here in the states. Now if anyone reading this is in EU, then by all means perhaps buy Mayhem's H20 for PCs. Moving on!

The Galvanic Scale or Galvanic Corrosion Scale is most commonly used in plumbing and roofing. This stems from the notion that contracts who deal with residential, commercial, and industrial sites must know how to use there materials properly or corrosion will ensue. Regarding the galvanic scale in your case has to do with the use of aluminum and copper in your loop. Here is the reason on a very basic scale.


Spoiler: Galvanic Scale







As you can see aluminum has a 2 and copper a 10. polar opposites of each other if we will. This tells us that there is a very high chance the two materials will cause the other to corrode. In this case sense copper is higher on the scale and thus less protective, the aluminum will cause the copper to corrode. This is why the Statue of Liberty looks green.


Spoiler: Statue of Liberty 1886







Now let's head back to deionized water. Deionized water is where water literally had the ions taken out of it. This is harmful to copper in the sense it can pit the copper and damage it. This is why no one used deionized water either.

Onto your loop. You said you had aluminum, then copper/brass plating and probably some traces nickel depending on the type of fitting you may have. Another reason is get rid of the aluminum is that brass is susceptible to corrosion too. Though the problem is we can't use Brasso on our loops to make it better. haha The best bet for you to do it to take normal distilled water from the grocery store and use it. Before that I'd flush your loop with warm tap water and see if any gunk comes out. Then if you are daring take apart your blocks to check the channels for any corrosion or crap build up. Then flush the loop with distilled water to remove trace elements of minerals from the tap water, chlorine, zinc, etc. Then run 100% pure distilled and call it a day. Some PT Nuke could work or a silver coil if you don't have any nickel. If you want dye make sure you use only a little and find a dye that has a huge concentration from a small drop.

I.E. 1 drop will completely color 1 LTR of water. The reason there is that dye come from a solid first then then is transformed in a liquid using centrifuge and other such methods. But all dye is either a powder or more likely a block of coloring first. If you have any other questions then feel free to post them.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hey guys and gals. I will be the new thread curator for the FrozenQ Club here at OCN. Thanks to DerickWM who passed the thread this way! You go girl 'n what not!









Anyways. If you are not on the roster for which reservoir(s) you own, make a post and I will attempt to update the spread sheet when I can. Now I won't be able to do it this weekend as I will be out of town at the Indi 500 with my old man, but when I get back I'll read every post and update it accordingly. So if you want in the cool guy club let me know.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> okay this is great info!
> 
> SO basically I DO have an aluminum in my loop! my 12mm rad is aluminum! my dual 120mm is Copper and Brass Core... so I do NEED non-conductive fluid then right?
> 
> so then maybe this will work?? Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O


Copper, brass, nickel, and stainless steel are ok to mix.

Aluminum, get it out of your loop


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Copper, brass, nickel, and stainless steel are ok to mix.
> 
> Aluminum, get it out of your loop


Unless you have silver and nickel. I've never done it but I hear horror stories. haha


----------



## wermad

Yeah, I've heard and seen some horror stories with aluminum in the mix. Most aluminum rads are intended for loops that already have aluminum. For example, if you a mod an H40, its aluminum so another aluminum rad can be added. Its just one of those metals that ppl say don't mix. Silver, well I do believe its a great biocide but after having so much trouble with the old ek nickle blocks and many manufacturers condemning it (ie ek and koolance) I've stopped using it. I been silver free for almost a year and I've had no issues so far


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Nice PT Nuke or nothing at all?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Nice PT Nuke or nothing at all?


Just mayhems dye


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> okay this is great info!
> 
> SO basically I DO have an aluminum in my loop! my 12mm rad is aluminum! my dual 120mm is Copper and Brass Core... so I do NEED non-conductive fluid then right?
> 
> so then maybe this will work?? Mayhems Ultra Pure H2O


no get rid of it... aluminum is bad... read the article on galvanic corrosion
if you insist on using it USE CAR COOLANT ( green truff or orange pink whatever ) car coolant is designed to help with that ( think aluminum blocks + copper tubes in rads ) { talking about engines here }

_*ALL COOLANT ONCE IN YOUR LOOP BECOMES CONDUCTIVE*_ ( READ THAT ARTICLE )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Yeah, I've heard and seen some horror stories with aluminum in the mix. Most aluminum rads are intended for loops that already have aluminum. For example, if you a mod an H40, its aluminum so another aluminum rad can be added. Its just one of those metals that ppl say don't mix. Silver, well I do believe its a great biocide but after having so much trouble with the old ek nickle blocks and many manufacturers condemning it (ie ek and koolance) I've stopped using it. I been silver free for almost a year and I've had no issues so far


nickle is another issue, done well ( this is the problem it is very very expensive to do well ) helps alot. koolance .... well.... yea... that is the reason i dont buy them, and instead i buy swiftech ... swiftech uses real chrome........and does it well.

silver .... well... is just a personal preference.
me i would rather collect it and sell it then put it in my loop to slowly degrade.... copper sulfate works just fine....


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> No.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heheh. Post what rad you have btw.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Non-Conductive is a fancy way of say there is a resistance to electricity. Electricity accels in high electrolyte filled water or anything else that helps act as a conduit. Hence why salt water has a very high resistance to electricity because there is so much salt and other minerals that resist it's flow. (I'm not saying use salt water either. hahaha) Also true non-conductive would be deionized water.
> 
> Anyways distilled water is actually has a low conductivity as well. This is why you will see it mentioned around the forums very often. In regards to the post Mega Man posted, Martin is a very famous water cooling enthusiast around the interwebs. Water cooling is a small community in the grand scheme of things so when someone steps up and makes a break-through, people tend to notice. As Martin said distilled water is the cheapest and best solution considering almost anyone can get there hands on distilled water.
> 
> In regards to Mayhem (Mick). I've asked him about his H20 before and it mostly pertains to people in Europe where the water quality may not be as high as it is here in the United States. So Mick had contracted out his own version of distilled water which is as good as it is here in the states. Now if anyone reading this is in EU, then by all means perhaps buy Mayhem's H20 for PCs. Moving on!
> 
> The Galvanic Scale or Galvanic Corrosion Scale is most commonly used in plumbing and roofing. This stems from the notion that contracts who deal with residential, commercial, and industrial sites must know how to use there materials properly or corrosion will ensue. Regarding the galvanic scale in your case has to do with the use of aluminum and copper in your loop. Here is the reason on a very basic scale.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Galvanic Scale
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see aluminum has a 2 and copper a 10. polar opposites of each other if we will. This tells us that there is a very high chance the two materials will cause the other to corrode. In this case sense copper is higher on the scale and thus less protective, the aluminum will cause the copper to corrode. This is why the Statue of Liberty looks green.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Statue of Liberty 1886
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now let's head back to deionized water. Deionized water is where water literally had the ions taken out of it. This is harmful to copper in the sense it can pit the copper and damage it. This is why no one used deionized water either.
> 
> Onto your loop. You said you had aluminum, then copper/brass plating and probably some traces nickel depending on the type of fitting you may have. Another reason is get rid of the aluminum is that brass is susceptible to corrosion too. Though the problem is we can't use Brasso on our loops to make it better. haha The best bet for you to do it to take normal distilled water from the grocery store and use it. Before that I'd flush your loop with warm tap water and see if any gunk comes out. Then if you are daring take apart your blocks to check the channels for any corrosion or crap build up. Then flush the loop with distilled water to remove trace elements of minerals from the tap water, chlorine, zinc, etc. Then run 100% pure distilled and call it a day. Some PT Nuke could work or a silver coil if you don't have any nickel. If you want dye make sure you use only a little and find a dye that has a huge concentration from a small drop.
> 
> I.E. 1 drop wi
> 
> 
> r 1 LTR of water. The reason there is that dye come from a solid first then then is transformed in a liquid using centrifuge and other such methods. But all dye is either a powder or more likely a block of coloring first. If you have any other questions then feel free to post them.


Holy crap so much information!!! this is amazing and yet a little disturbing... my loop consists of a thermaltake bigwater 760 plus 120mm rad and an EX240 XSPC Cross Flow dual Radiator currently using EK UV blue coolant...

I'm a little upset I can't use the aluminum rad because that means I have to re-do the whole thing! AND buy another RAD!!! LOL It's only been up for a month or so and the temps and loop is exactly to my liking... I am however going to be switching out the pump, but man this whole thing about the radiator!!!!









uhhhh okay... this is sad news I'm going to have to figure out what I can do cause I don't have much money right now I just purchased my first condo!!! money is a little thin LOL


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> silver .... well... is just a personal preference.
> me i would rather collect it and sell it then put it in my loop to slowly degrade.... copper sulfate works just fine....


A good time to horde precious metals









Any word from Alex or FrozenQ? Still haven't gotten a reply on my missing extra ccfl


----------



## Mega Man

pretty sure he replied a few posts back


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> A good time to horde precious metals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any word from Alex or FrozenQ? Still haven't gotten a reply on my missing extra ccfl










I'll mail one out to you tomorrow. haha I forgot. My dad just came into town.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> OH: I'll mail one out to you tomorrow. haha I forgot. My dad just came into town.


Thanks again









I'm still hoping Alex can get back to me soon. I'm just eager to move some of these extra cooling gear


----------



## knanda

I see in this thread that everyone is having an Liquid Fusion V series reservoirs. I am planning to get this reservoir Liquid Fusion X4 Quad Helix(Blue) http://frozenqshop.com/products/reservoirs/lf250.html

Can anyone give some opinion on this reservoir??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I see in this thread that everyone is having an Liquid Fusion V series reservoirs. I am planning to get this reservoir Liquid Fusion X4 Quad Helix(Blue) http://frozenqshop.com/products/reservoirs/lf250.html
> 
> Can anyone give some opinion on this reservoir??


Its pretty much a helix reservoir with two more helix' wrapped (four total). It should hold slightly less liquid but it it won't make a difference in terms of temps and performance.

It looks amazing imho, especially if you have a few color combos.


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Its pretty much a helix reservoir with two more helix' wrapped (four total). It should hold slightly less liquid but it it won't make a difference in terms of temps and performance.
> 
> It looks amazing imho, especially if you have a few color combos.


I can only find this reservoir up for sale on FrozenQ website. Is this a good place to order from??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I can only find this reservoir up for sale on FrozenQ website. Is this a good place to order from??


Yes, they're the actually manufacturers


----------



## knanda

Which of these you guys prefer will look better with distilled water. The Fluorescent Blue/Dark Blue one??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Which of these you guys prefer will look better with distilled water. The Fluorescent Blue/Dark Blue one??


Fluorescent will glow under the uv light in the core tube. Its up to you.


----------



## MusicalPulse

It's been two weeks since I've sent an email to FrozenQ and still no reply. The reservoir I received had a broken cathode shell and an exposed wire that may or may not have been the reason my whole system shorted out and is now unusable. Do they have any support staff at all?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

How did your entire system short over an exposed cathode wire?


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> How did your entire system short over an exposed cathode wire?


Don't know, but it happened. May have been a couple drops of water or what not.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

That wire is always like that btw. It's just how cathodes are.


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> That wire is always like that btw. It's just how cathodes are.


The point is, if you see the black plastic covering that should be around it, has broken and part of it is on the desk. The wire won't even go in to the reservoir now.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I see now. Didn't realize the cathode was broken. I don't know what to tell you other than I am not sure how you cathode broke and then the reservoir leaked. It's never happened to me at least. I have heard of some of the res's leaking but it was always when people were testing, not just randomly.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> It's been two weeks since I've sent an email to FrozenQ and still no reply. The reservoir I received had a broken cathode shell and an exposed wire that may or may not have been the reason my whole system shorted out and is now unusable. Do they have any support staff at all?


Something is not right... I have had mine for over a year now and have had my cathode completely under water in my reservoir. I didnt tighten a fitting enough on the top of my reservoir, and it leaked into the center tube of my reservoir and filled up where the cathode goes completely with water. I only noticed it because the cathode was dimmer that I though it should be and I pulled it out only to see the water level in the center tube lower as I pulled it out. Had NO effect on my system at all. I just drained it, switch the cathode with a spare I had and tightened the fitting.

Although I am not saying its impossible to fry your system with a cathode in your water, but didnt affect me any when it happened it me.

Hope you get it figured out. And there has been a lot of users stating that they are havnt a hard time getting a response. Hopefully he can get his business straightened up and back on track.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

That is cool. As for Alex yes, he does not post here very often anymore, nor have I seen him post on the other forums very much, nor have I heard of anyone being able to reach him: including me. Truth be told.


----------



## pwnography6

Yepper same here have not heard anything since he replied on the forum last week. Im gonna try one more time to email him, if that doesnt work it's RMA time


----------



## pwnography6

Wow my PC just glitched out super Uber Bad sorry about that guys was like a quadf post


----------



## pwnography6

Triple post


----------



## pwnography6

Quad post, not really too sure how this happened


----------



## pwnography6

Ignore this one too


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6*
> 
> Yepper same here have not heard anything since he replied on the forum last week. Im gonna try one more time to email him, if that doesnt work it's RMA time


I can't even RMA because when I emailed FrozenPC they told me to email FrozenQ...


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I hate when I triple or quad post ?. As for frozencpu, they suck terribly. I don't use them anymore. They've screwed up way to many of my orders.


----------



## wermad

Sent FrozenQ support an email as i haven't heard from Alex


----------



## the_real_7

Ive also sent out a email to FrozenQ @ [email protected] and no response am I using the correct email . this is the second reservoir Ive bought that Ive had to email them about . .
Quote:


> Hello I ordered FrozenQ Liquid Fusion for my build and also bought D5 / MCP655 Pump Mount Bracket also with a Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump . . Now after putting it together Im getting a very strong vibration and i think it may be the pump mount . I would like to resolve this issue
> Thank You


8 Days since email


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_real_7*
> 
> Ive also sent out a email to FrozenQ @ [email protected] and no response am I using the correct email . this is the second reservoir Ive bought that Ive had to email them about . .
> 8 Days since email


Is it a bay res or tube res?

My old D5 in the xspc bay res did make quite a bit of noise. The only thing soft between the res and the pump was the D5's o-ring. For a bay res, you might want to add some softening or dampening material to the case's bay cage/rails.

My koolance tube reservoir w/ DDC top base also made noises, so I ended up adding some padding to help with the noise


----------



## SwiftDW

Has anyone heard from Alex or the frozenqsupport email?
I sent them a product for a refund and haven't received a refund and they aren't responding to my emails -.-


----------



## darwing

Im sure something is up, Alex is actually incredible at responding in a timely manner, he could be on vacation or something, just be patient


----------



## the_real_7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Is it a bay res or tube res?
> 
> My old D5 in the xspc bay res did make quite a bit of noise. The only thing soft between the res and the pump was the D5's o-ring. For a bay res, you might want to add some softening or dampening material to the case's bay cage/rails.
> 
> My koolance tube reservoir w/ DDC top base also made noises, so I ended up adding some padding to help with the noise


Thanks wermad for the recommendation I tried that also , but i also have the same exact setup in another case and not one ounce of sound , this is my second time having a issue with the mount , it being my third issue with the design already . Im not complaining really cause it work in one pc . But come on FrozenQ get your rma system working properly or im just going to talk to frozen cpu and tell them this is probably not the best company to recommend on there site, being frozen cpu backs quality stuff and services of this company's rma system is hurting cause lack of customer support


----------



## MusicalPulse

Almost a month since I sent my email


----------



## the_real_7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Almost a month since I sent my email


and if im behind you in line i got a long time to wait for sure , if it happens at all


----------



## SwiftDW

I didn't get an email response, but I did receive a refund (which I am happy about!)
So at least someone is paying attention even if they don't have time to respond to the emails


----------



## tinmann

Hi, does anyone from FrozenQ visit this thread? I ordered a replacement cathode for a the Liquid Fusion Blue and some standard mounts. I ordered a green cathode just to see how it would look with the blue reservoir and it's been two weeks and it the order still shows as processing. Is there anywhere else to find these parts?

Update: I heard from them today and the item has finally shipped.


----------



## pwnography6

Still haven't heard anything bout mine. Been months now contemplating going to consumer affairs.


----------



## knanda

I received tpday the X4 quad spiral reservoir I ordered last week from FrozenQ. I didn't test it yet, my wc parts are on their way soon.
I see a port on the top, What is it used for? Fill port/Inlet?
Did anyone tried using the bottom port as the intake? Does it in any way come in contact with cathode and cause damage?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_real_7*
> 
> Ive also sent out a email to FrozenQ @ [email protected] and no response am I using the correct email . this is the second reservoir Ive bought that Ive had to email them about . .
> 8 Days since email


Try and send me an email again. The [email protected] address is my personal one and I don't have any unattended to emails in my inbox. I know host gator migrated our accounts last week and we had some troubles but it didn't seem like I had a period where emails didn't come through. I was getting them pretty regularly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Almost a month since I sent my email


Where did you send the email to and what was it about?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinmann*
> 
> Hi, does anyone from FrozenQ visit this thread? I ordered a replacement cathode for a the Liquid Fusion Blue and some standard mounts. I ordered a green cathode just to see how it would look with the blue reservoir and it's been two weeks and it the order still shows as processing. Is there anywhere else to find these parts?
> 
> Update: I heard from them today and the item has finally shipped.


Did you get an email from one of our shop guys? I know for a fact the green lights had been on back order and you should have been informed of the delay.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pwnography6*
> 
> Still haven't heard anything bout mine. Been months now contemplating going to consumer affairs.


If I recall, you needed the replacement set of caps? That RMA was processed and shipped quite some time ago. I can try and look for the info on it. It would have gone out first class which sometimes takes a bit. Pending how long ago it was shipped, I might send a new set expedited.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I received tpday the X4 quad spiral reservoir I ordered last week from FrozenQ. I didn't test it yet, my wc parts are on their way soon.
> I see a port on the top, What is it used for? Fill port/Inlet?
> Did anyone tried using the bottom port as the intake? Does it in any way come in contact with cathode and cause damage?


The top is for a fill port. Ideally you should use the very bottom hole as an inlet, and a side port as an outlet, however, any configuration will work pending how you have your system set up.


----------



## knanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> The top is for a fill port. Ideally you should use the very bottom hole as an inlet, and a side port as an outlet, however, any configuration will work pending how you have your system set up.


So I don't need to remove the reservoir top for filling? I could just use a syringe to pour liquid into reservoir using the fill port right?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> So I don't need to remove the reservoir top for filling? I could just use a syringe to pour liquid into reservoir using the fill port right?


correct.


----------



## knanda

Just noticed I cannot fit both mounts of my Res to the case. Can only to fit one. I got a FrozenQ X4 Reservoir. Wondering if only one mount can hold the reservoir in place?


----------



## Tomiger

I've had this guy for several months now, forgot this thread existed







These were taken right when I got it and during bleeding/testing. Took a long time for the order to get made since they ran outta parts

Goes with the black-blue theme I had, matches my cable patterns too (black, blue blue black)


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> Just noticed I cannot fit both mounts of my Res to the case. Can only to fit one. I got a FrozenQ X4 Reservoir. Wondering if only one mount can hold the reservoir in place?


One mount can hold it in place, I would just make sure its snug and that it doesn't pop out easily. If possible place the clip up high on the cylinder, to let it hang so to speak.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hey guys. Sorry I haven't been active lately, I've just been super busy and distracted. I will try to update the club list very soon. (Trying to find a summer job instead of going to summer school.)


----------



## TheGovernment

I just got this res : http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/liquid-fusion-x4-quad-spiral-reservoir/ and the coil inside is loose and plunks around in the tube. I would have assumed it would have been solidly attached but thats not the case. If the res is pointed with the side in and out on the bottom (light wires out of top), the tubes fall and block the holes. When you put water in it, does it float and not block the inlets and outlets? Or should it be solid in there? I've tried taking the top off but it's extremely solid on there and I'd imagine I'd break it before one of the caps actually came off.

thanks


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGovernment*
> 
> I just got this res : http://www.dazmode.com/store/product/liquid-fusion-x4-quad-spiral-reservoir/ and the coil inside is loose and plunks around in the tube. I would have assumed it would have been solidly attached but thats not the case. If the res is pointed with the side in and out on the bottom (light wires out of top), the tubes fall and block the holes. When you put water in it, does it float and not block the inlets and outlets? Or should it be solid in there? I've tried taking the top off but it's extremely solid on there and I'd imagine I'd break it before one of the caps actually came off.
> 
> thanks


As replied on our facebook page, it does not matter for this specific reservoir. The helix slides around the central light tube to keep it aligned, and is not tight. Otherwise you risk breaking it if you try and remove it. It will not affect performance or cause blockages if it moves freely.


----------



## MusicalPulse

I sent my email to [email protected] as directed by FrozenCPU. It was regarding how either the cathode or the cathode cover shattered, which resulted most of the wire being outside the reservoir and may or may not have been the cause of my whole system shorting out and parts dying. Here was the picture.


----------



## ledzepp3

Has anyone else had a problem with the dual bay reservoirs? I still have my old (about 5 months) FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual bay res, and I had a terrible leaking problem with it. Liquid no matter what I tried would just gush out the right cathode tube mount on the res, and it nearly destroyed my Red Nuke rig. I could only run the other res that I had from them in it, and it was pretty disappointing







add the fact in that it almost destroyed nearly 2K worth of hardware, and the fact that I haven't gotten an email back (after about 3 months) regarding this problem at all. It's like they refuse to acknowledge it at all, and it makes me frustrated that I attempted to support them by buying their products, and then they let you down with (to me at least) almost Asus like customer support.. I've had only one problem with Asus and it was still better than this.

I do appreciate though that they have finally restructured their website and Email system, it sucks that my res is out of warranty -_-


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Has anyone else had a problem with the dual bay reservoirs? I still have my old (about 5 months) FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual bay res, and I had a terrible leaking problem with it. Liquid no matter what I tried would just gush out the right cathode tube mount on the res, and it nearly destroyed my Red Nuke rig. I could only run the other res that I had from them in it, and it was pretty disappointing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> add the fact in that it almost destroyed nearly 2K worth of hardware, and the fact that I haven't gotten an email back (after about 3 months) regarding this problem at all. It's like they refuse to acknowledge it at all, and it makes me frustrated that I attempted to support them by buying their products, and then they let you down with (to me at least) almost Asus like customer support.. I've had only one problem with Asus and it was still better than this.
> 
> I do appreciate though that they have finally restructured their website and Email system, it sucks that my res is out of warranty -_-


I opened up my bay one and the tube does have a bit of play. Luckily, it has not leaked for me. Maybe a bit of silicone glue around it to seal?

I did have this leak on a 250mm tube res I got a year ago. Alex sent me a replacement after I discovered it was leaking when I got it.


----------



## ledzepp3

The glues that I do have available wouldn't stick to the acetal


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> The glues that I do have available wouldn't stick to the acetal


Pm alex or send their support a message on what glue they recommend. I know there are specific glues for certain materials.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> I sent my email to [email protected] as directed by FrozenCPU. It was regarding how either the cathode or the cathode cover shattered, which resulted most of the wire being outside the reservoir and may or may not have been the cause of my whole system shorting out and parts dying. Here was the picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Good ol' FrozenCPU. Anytime there is a problem they forward you to the manufacturer, even if it's something they did.







Now the cathode wouldn't have shorted out your system. Have you tried jumping your PSU with a paperclip outside the PC? Another option would be to see if you can get an RMA on the PSU. If it's Seasonic, Silverstone, or Corsair than that should be very easy as they are both GG companies. It could be anything from a blown transistor to a resistor or even a capacitor or fuse.

Here is always a good video if you're a DIY kind-of guy.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Has anyone else had a problem with the dual bay reservoirs? I still have my old (about 5 months) FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual bay res, and I had a terrible leaking problem with it. Liquid no matter what I tried would just gush out the right cathode tube mount on the res, and it nearly destroyed my Red Nuke rig. I could only run the other res that I had from them in it, and it was pretty disappointing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> add the fact in that it almost destroyed nearly 2K worth of hardware, and the fact that I haven't gotten an email back (after about 3 months) regarding this problem at all. It's like they refuse to acknowledge it at all, and it makes me frustrated that I attempted to support them by buying their products, and then they let you down with (to me at least) almost Asus like customer support.. I've had only one problem with Asus and it was still better than this.
> 
> I do appreciate though that they have finally restructured their website and Email system, it sucks that my res is out of warranty -_-


My dual bay res leaked when I first got it but it was the front cover that leaked a bit. I just tightened the screws and it was fine. I do agree with Wermad though. Make sure it doesn't have the mildew resistant crap in it. That could potentially be bad for the reservoir or loop down the road. DAP silicone is good and GE Silicone II is what you want. Let it sit for about 72 hours or until you can't smell it anymore and then test reservoir by itself first.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I opened up my bay one and the tube does have a bit of play. Luckily, it has not leaked for me. Maybe a bit of silicone glue around it to seal?
> 
> I did have this leak on a 250mm tube res I got a year ago. Alex sent me a replacement after I discovered it was leaking when I got it.


Agreed.







Now post a picture of that reservoir glowing. I sent you the dang CCFL, now I want to see pictures!!









@Alex. Welcome back.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Oh yeah and I have excel on this computer now sooooooooooooooooooooo.

If the list on the front page needs to be updated let me know!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Agreed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now post a picture of that reservoir glowing. I sent you the dang CCFL, now I want to see pictures!!


The bay reservoirs our out atm, I'm waiting for my 900D to arrive and hopefully both will fit.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> I sent my email to [email protected] as directed by FrozenCPU. It was regarding how either the cathode or the cathode cover shattered, which resulted most of the wire being outside the reservoir and may or may not have been the cause of my whole system shorting out and parts dying. Here was the picture.


Please PM me on here. As mentioned before it seems the email issue is more serious than I though. I just went through the whole server inbox for the support address in the last 30 days and found nothing pertaining to this. PM me your info and we can get you a replacement light shipped out tomorrow.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ledzepp3*
> 
> Has anyone else had a problem with the dual bay reservoirs? I still have my old (about 5 months) FrozenQ Liquid Fusion Dual bay res, and I had a terrible leaking problem with it. Liquid no matter what I tried would just gush out the right cathode tube mount on the res, and it nearly destroyed my Red Nuke rig. I could only run the other res that I had from them in it, and it was pretty disappointing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> add the fact in that it almost destroyed nearly 2K worth of hardware, and the fact that I haven't gotten an email back (after about 3 months) regarding this problem at all. It's like they refuse to acknowledge it at all, and it makes me frustrated that I attempted to support them by buying their products, and then they let you down with (to me at least) almost Asus like customer support.. I've had only one problem with Asus and it was still better than this.
> 
> I do appreciate though that they have finally restructured their website and Email system, it sucks that my res is out of warranty -_-


If its 5 months old it would still be under warranty. All parts carry a 1 year warranty. However, please check to make sure the o-ring in the side is properly seated in its groove. It's possible it might be torn or pinched. We have only ever seen leaks from the light tube as a result of that in the bays.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I opened up my bay one and the tube does have a bit of play. Luckily, it has not leaked for me. Maybe a bit of silicone glue around it to seal?
> 
> I did have this leak on a 250mm tube res I got a year ago. Alex sent me a replacement after I discovered it was leaking when I got it.


Unfortunately nothing really bonds to acetal. There are a few special cyanoacrylates on the market that can, but they have to be ordered online and are quite expensive for what you get.


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Good ol' FrozenCPU. Anytime there is a problem they forward you to the manufacturer, even if it's something they did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cathode wouldn't have shorted out your system. Have you tried jumping your PSU with a paperclip outside the PC? Another option would be to see if you can get an RMA on the PSU. If it's Seasonic, Silverstone, or Corsair than that should be very easy as they are both GG companies. It could be anything from a blown transistor to a resistor or even a capacitor or fuse.


The power supply completely died and would not startup at all. The motherboard also died, wouldn't boot with a working power supply. I don't know what went wrong but the only thing to blame was the reservoir.


----------



## the_real_7

Quote:


> Quote:
> Originally Posted by the_real_7 View Post
> 
> Ive also sent out a email to FrozenQ @ [email protected] and no response am I using the correct email . this is the second reservoir Ive bought that Ive had to email them about . .
> 8 Days since email.


Quote:


> Try and send me an email again. The [email protected] address is my personal one and I don't have any unattended to emails in my inbox. I know host gator migrated our accounts last week and we had some troubles but it didn't seem like I had a period where emails didn't come through. I was getting them pretty regularly.


Email Resent Frozen-Q


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> The power supply completely died and would not startup at all. The motherboard also died, wouldn't boot with a working power supply. *I don't know what went wrong but the only thing to blame was the reservoir.*


that is the key words~
why blame it? is it possible something else took out your stuff?
i highly doubt it was the light as the light would make the psu trip on ocp worst case. however imo that wire would of melted long before that happened.


----------



## wermad

I've had ccfl and one from frozenq just quit. No drama or sparks, just stopped working. They draw too little power to really make it a system killer imho. Don't know about a small ccfl bulb taking down a whole rig







. My suspicion lies with the psu. It can take down pretty much everything.


----------



## TheGovernment

i think we all know there's no way the light took out an entire system. There was something else going on for sure. They take a watt or 2 and the converter would have went fairly quickly. I know it sucks to loose the pc but thats not what did it.


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is the key words~
> why blame it? is it possible something else took out your stuff?
> i highly doubt it was the light as the light would make the psu trip on ocp worst case. however imo that wire would of melted long before that happened.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I've had ccfl and one from frozenq just quit. No drama or sparks, just stopped working. They draw too little power to really make it a system killer imho. Don't know about a small ccfl bulb taking down a whole rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My suspicion lies with the psu. It can take down pretty much everything.


Very well then it wasn't the reservoir. The point is that I still need an RMA and I haven't received a reply for nearly 2 months now.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Very well then it wasn't the reservoir. The point is that I still need an RMA and I haven't received a reply for nearly 2 months now.


Yes, unfortunately. Even for small things like the bulb we're having to wait. Patience is the best move right now until someone can reply.

Testing fitting my reservoirs to my new case:


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Ooooh. I like that dual res.


----------



## MRDcanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Pm alex or send their support a message on what glue they recommend. I know there are specific glues for certain materials.


look in the aquarium glue section, ppl make aquarium out of acrylic and they glues the corners and it does work very well plus, they are non toxic (not to kill the fish). I had to fix the cap of the CCFL compartment in my quad helix rez and it never leaked since.


----------



## phillyd

I'm not in the club? Here it is!



Please check out the *build log*


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hey buddy. Give me a bit to add you in okay?


----------



## phillyd

Thanks!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Just realized I never added myself to the list and I've had the dual bay res for over a year now.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Updated!


----------



## wermad

Going to sell one of my bay reservoirs. its a real pita plumb and bleed two. I barely manage to get the top on in as it clashed with my rad.

Going to order a 250 quad helix w/ blue and green fluorescent spirals when I get a bit more case on hand. Gonna have to pm Alex on this one since their site doesn't give you an option to select more then one color. Would have them: blue, green, blue, green


----------



## NinjaSushi2




----------



## ZytheEKS

Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy these online in the United States? I bought a LE UV Warp red by FrozenQ a while ago from FrozenCPU but it arrived with a leaking top. It was simple enough to seal up, but still, I shouldn't have to on a brand spanking new $200+ res. ☹.

(Debating on adding a Dual bay FrozenQ UV)


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy these online in the United States? I bought a LE UV Warp red by FrozenQ a while ago from FrozenCPU but it arrived with a leaking top. It was simple enough to seal up, but still, I shouldn't have to on a brand spanking new $200+ res. ☹.
> 
> (Debating on adding a Dual bay FrozenQ UV)


Performance-PC's
I just talked to the guy who seals them up there last week and he is extra careful.
Here's the FrozenQ category.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Performance-PC's
> I just talked to the guy who seals them up there last week and he is extra careful.
> Here's the FrozenQ category.


Or I could just order off their main website









I just realized I could do that too









But then if I order off their main website, I see this and my curiosity is peaked


http://frozenqshop.com/products/waterblocks/cold-fusion-waterblock.html


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Interesting block isn't it. I think it appeared a few weeks ago but I could be wrong.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Going to sell one of my bay reservoirs. its a real pita plumb and bleed two. I barely manage to get the top on in as it clashed with my rad.
> 
> Going to order a 250 quad helix w/ blue and green fluorescent spirals when I get a bit more case on hand. Gonna have to pm Alex on this one since their site doesn't give you an option to select more then one color. Would have them: blue, green, blue, green


Yeah, you can just place an order and then send me a PM or email with your order number and how you want them. Just order say, a blue one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Does anyone have a recommendation on where to buy these online in the United States? I bought a LE UV Warp red by FrozenQ a while ago from FrozenCPU but it arrived with a leaking top. It was simple enough to seal up, but still, I shouldn't have to on a brand spanking new $200+ res. ☹.
> 
> (Debating on adding a Dual bay FrozenQ UV)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> Performance-PC's
> I just talked to the guy who seals them up there last week and he is extra careful.
> Here's the FrozenQ category.


Well, for the warp reservoirs, they aren't sealed up at the retailers. They're sealed up here in house and pressure tested, so they shouldn't leak, and if they do I'd suggest RMA'ing them direct to us. However, like you said, something like that is super easy to patch.

The only ones that get sealed up at retailers are some of the custom color helices. They stock the helices and then put them in a reservoir to order.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Interesting block isn't it. I think it appeared a few weeks ago but I could be wrong.


It's a concept waterblock that I'm using just to test the market. Pretty much the base design is standard for the present day. Micro-channels in an 1/8" copper base, jet impingement plate, acetal top, etc.

The colored insert though can be done in any color, and the mounting bracket done in gloss black, matte black, clear, frosted, carbon fiber wrapped or black brushed aluminum wrapped.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Well, for the warp reservoirs, they aren't sealed up at the retailers. They're sealed up here in house and pressure tested, so they shouldn't leak, and if they do I'd suggest RMA'ing them direct to us. However, like you said, something like that is super easy to patch.
> 
> The only ones that get sealed up at retailers are some of the custom color helices. They stock the helices and then put them in a reservoir to order.


Oh I thought he was talking about the helix. Btw good job on your products, the only complaint I had was caused by me using the res wrong


----------



## Frozen-Q

Just wanted to let everyone know we are almost done filling out order/replacement parts to all the people above who needed things. We're working as fast as we can to get everything taken care of.


----------



## MusicalPulse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Just wanted to let everyone know we are almost done filling out order/replacement parts to all the people above who needed things. We're working as fast as we can to get everything taken care of.


Should I contact you directly?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Yeah, you can just place an order and then send me a PM or email with your order number and how you want them. Just order say, a blue one.
> 
> Well, for the warp reservoirs, they aren't sealed up at the retailers. They're sealed up here in house and pressure tested, so they shouldn't leak, and if they do I'd suggest RMA'ing them direct to us. However, like you said, something like that is super easy to patch.
> 
> The only ones that get sealed up at retailers are some of the custom color helices. They stock the helices and then put them in a reservoir to order.
> It's a concept waterblock that I'm using just to test the market. Pretty much the base design is standard for the present day. Micro-channels in an 1/8" copper base, jet impingement plate, acetal top, etc.
> 
> The colored insert though can be done in any color, and the mounting bracket done in gloss black, matte black, clear, frosted, carbon fiber wrapped or black brushed aluminum wrapped.


Hu, I think I may be picking up one of those waterblocks








As I said, I got my warp res a while ago, and it's been sealed for a while.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Should I contact you directly?


Just send me a PM with exactly what you need and we'll get it taken care of.


----------



## the_real_7

Still waiting for a response from Frozen-Q already sent out 3 emails . . . service on this company side seems to be lacking

Resending email like you requested in forum to the_real_7

Hello I ordered FrozenQ Liquid Fusion for my build and also bought D5 / MCP655 Pump Mount Bracket also with a Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump . . Now after putting it together im getting a very strong vibration and i think it may be the pump mount . I would like to resolve this issue
Thank You
Tony Conception


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_real_7*
> 
> Still waiting for a response from Frozen-Q already sent out 3 emails . . . service on this company side seems to be lacking
> 
> Resending email like you requested in forum to the_real_7
> 
> Hello I ordered FrozenQ Liquid Fusion for my build and also bought D5 / MCP655 Pump Mount Bracket also with a Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump . . Now after putting it together im getting a very strong vibration and i think it may be the pump mount . I would like to resolve this issue
> Thank You
> Tony Conception


Have you post in the WC section to see if anyone may know what the problem is there? That doesn't sound like a FrozenQ problem to me.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_real_7*
> 
> Still waiting for a response from Frozen-Q already sent out 3 emails . . . service on this company side seems to be lacking
> 
> Resending email like you requested in forum to the_real_7
> 
> Hello I ordered FrozenQ Liquid Fusion for my build and also bought D5 / MCP655 Pump Mount Bracket also with a Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump . . Now after putting it together im getting a very strong vibration and i think it may be the pump mount . I would like to resolve this issue
> Thank You
> Tony Conception


As the ninja said, I'd throw up a thread in the WC section. That sounds like an issue with the motor, or perhaps it just needs to be decoupled. Apparently FrozenQ has been having issues with their email servers, if you go read the past few pages of this thread you'll see.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Sushi always knows.


----------



## wermad

i've heard issues w/ the pump's vibrating in different reservoirs (xspc, ek, etc.) and causes a lot of noise. I opted to run my pump separately.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the_real_7*
> 
> Still waiting for a response from Frozen-Q already sent out 3 emails . . . service on this company side seems to be lacking
> 
> Resending email like you requested in forum to the_real_7
> 
> Hello I ordered FrozenQ Liquid Fusion for my build and also bought D5 / MCP655 Pump Mount Bracket also with a Alphacool VPP655 Variable Speed Pump . . Now after putting it together im getting a very strong vibration and i think it may be the pump mount . I would like to resolve this issue
> Thank You
> Tony Conception


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Just send me a PM with exactly what you need and we'll get it taken care of.


Like I said above, we're working to take care of everybody as fast as possible this week. I still have a few of you to attend to. I'll be sending you a new pump mount. It could be the pump, but just to be sure I don't mind having you try out another mount.


----------



## the_real_7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Have you post in the WC section to see if anyone may know what the problem is there? That doesn't sound like a FrozenQ problem to me.


Hey "NinjaSushi2 thank you for you help







So you can understand the problem more I have two of the same exact same setups one makes noise one doesn't tried switching pumps and pump worked fine change mount and vibration was less on second reservoir , being original has no vibration sound or anything , I feel it the mount being this is the second time having the problem
Quote:


> As the ninja said, I'd throw up a thread in the WC section. That sounds like an issue with the motor, or perhaps it just needs to be decoupled. Apparently FrozenQ has been having issues with their email servers, if you go read the past few pages of this thread you'll see.


thanks wermad for letting me know about the email problems . try decoupling the pump didnt work , only thin that really works is loosening the pump till it open and noise stops , I feel something is not giving inside of unit
Quote:


> Like I said above, we're working to take care of everybody as fast as possible this week. I still have a few of you to attend to. I'll be sending you a new pump mount. It could be the pump, but just to be sure I don't mind having you try out another mount.


Thank you for trying to take care of everyone . I believe I have a bad pump mount as Ive switch to the other unit i have and it still has slight vibration . my original unit " other unit " has no sound or vibration and pump is on 5 . Somewhere in the newer unit im getting rub or something cause when i lesson it up enough to leak , it gets silent i


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hmm. Well if Alex will send you a new one then that is good. Maybe you can take pictures and we can determine the problem that way for future reference.


----------



## Dasweb

So, how should I mount this thing in a C70? I have the default mounting hardware and screw, but no where to screw it into my case.


----------



## Mega Man

get a drill !~ or get creative

i will be using aluminum extrusion 80/20 1010 to make a mount in mine .


----------



## wermad

picked up a used 250mm helix res, just need to get a bulb and brackets


----------



## MusicalPulse

Alex I PMed you but still no reply after a week


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MusicalPulse*
> 
> Alex I PMed you but still no reply after a week


PM me your shipping address for confirmation. We shipped out all RMA parts early last week. I can check to make sure it went with them, I'm fairly certain it did because we shipped a bunch of cathodes.


----------



## darwing

Sometimes I literally just stare at it's beauty.. Honestly its the coolest reservoir out there bar none!! I just love looking at it!!




It's so beautiful Thanks Alex!!


----------



## Mega Man

lies !!! the warp drive is by far !!!!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> lies !!! the warp drive is by far !!!!!


If you think that's cool, try the Warp Drive with UV lights and UV reactive coolant. It's wicked!


----------



## Mega Man

mine is the uv warp drive FQ is modding it for me atm !!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> mine is the uv warp drive FQ is modding it for me atm !!!


What mods are you having done :O and what coolant are you going to use for it? I have the Clear/UV blue in mine, so it glows wherever the random lights flash. Well.. that's how it was, it's been about 9 months since I filled my loop, and most of the dye seems to have faded.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> What mods are you having done :O and what coolant are you going to use for it? I have the Clear/UV blue in mine, so it glows wherever the random lights flash. Well.. that's how it was, it's been about 9 months since I filled my loop, and most of the dye seems to have faded.


may want to check your blocks. dye is made from solids... and eventually becomes solid again....

i use distilled and biocide.

i am just having a few ports added ( gonna have an in on top and an fill port that will goto top of my case, to pump from bottom and a drain as well. ( gonna end up with several as it is a fairly big loop and getting bigger ))

getting the updated mounts for it.... that is it. gonna be a pita to mount but i love this case.

atm have 4 rads ( 1x 240 30mm swiftech { all others are alphacool }1x240 45mm, 1x120 60mm, 1x120 45mm ) 2 komodo 7970s and 1 apogee hd

soon will add 2 more rads (all alphacool 1x480 80mm, 1x240 45mm ) will move the swiftech rad to another build { wifes }, board block and may do ram this time around ( for look, however i am undecided 100% if i will)

then will be custom building a block for my cpu backplate and vrm backplates.

last when i get my pedestal built will be adding in 5 more 480 80mm rads at that point . also may add in 2 more komodo 7970s depending if i can find 2 more of my gpus ( i want them all same model and i just want quadfire ) if not ill get 4 8970s ( or next gen ) and the komodos for them. ( may just do a 7990 for now and still do the 8970s later, waiting for swiftech to release the 7990 block . ) that is about the end of my getting added on list for this build. would love to find a quality psu that i could water cool....


----------



## ZytheEKS

Yeah, after about a year its time to flush my loop and clean it anyways. Out of curiosity, why the UV res lighting with no UV dye


----------



## Mega Man

other things in my case are uv. / will be uv

also forgot to mention in the next tear down will be adding my mcp35x dual pump to it as well


----------



## Mega Man

derete


----------



## mhall41

I'm sorry if it has already been posted, but I searched and couldn't find anything. But has anyone used UV reactive coolant on the dual bay? I wanted to use feser UV acid green with the dual bay fluorescent blue helix. I just didn't know if the UV green would completely engulf the blue helix and make it indiscernible, any input is greatly appreciated!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mhall41*
> 
> I'm sorry if it has already been posted, but I searched and couldn't find anything. But has anyone used UV reactive coolant on the dual bay? I wanted to use feser UV acid green with the dual bay fluorescent blue helix. I just didn't know if the UV green would completely engulf the blue helix and make it indiscernible, any input is greatly appreciated!



Well, this is what it looks like so.....

UV Coolants typically aren't opaque, so you should be able to see the helix.


----------



## mhall41

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> Well, this is what it looks like so.....
> 
> UV Coolants typically aren't opaque, so you should be able to see the helix.


Good deal, that's kind of what I thought but as i was scrolling through pictures of the res I didn't see any with UV coolant and I got worried. Thanks


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mhall41*
> 
> Good deal, that's kind of what I thought but as i was scrolling through pictures of the res I didn't see any with UV coolant and I got worried. Thanks


Yes mine was originally with uv blue and it drowns out the helix it is better to just go with clear fluid I switched to distillers water and am so much happier with it


----------



## 209ham

Add Please








http://www.xoxide.com/frozenq-liquid-fusion-x4-quad-spiral-reservoir-blue.html


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hey all. I've been very busy the last few weeks so I will try to update the club list when I get a chance.


----------



## Bereapunk2006

Hey guys,
So I recently took apart my build because I bought some new parts to upgrade my system. I noticed when cleaning out my loop that the screw that goes on the cathode shell was rusting and was leaking rust all inside my loop. It sucks because it made the blue helix get covered in "rust dust" (whatever you wanna call it) as well.

Has anyone had this happened. Unfortunately I'm past my warranty period but this seems like a manufacture problem since they must've have used a screw that would rust if it came in contact with water. I'm pretty much at the point of just dumping my res and getting something else...


----------



## letthiswork1

Do these guys still exist?


----------



## Steveo2400

Hi, my name is Steve, and i have been an off-and-on employee of FrozenQPCMods while ive been on school. Id like to be of assistance if anyone has any questions or more importantly, if anyone has any custom ideas they want to see happen.
Quote:


> Hey guys,
> So I recently took apart my build because I bought some new parts to upgrade my system. I noticed when cleaning out my loop that the screw that goes on the cathode shell was rusting and was leaking rust all inside my loop. It sucks because it made the blue helix get covered in "rust dust" (whatever you wanna call it) as well.
> 
> Has anyone had this happened. Unfortunately I'm past my warranty period but this seems like a manufacture problem since they must've have used a screw that would rust if it came in contact with water. I'm pretty much at the point of just dumping my res and getting something else...


Email me at [email protected] and we can take care of that right away.
Quote:


> Do these guys still exist?


I assure you sir, we do exist.


----------



## Bereapunk2006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Hi, my name is Steve, and i have been an off-and-on employee of FrozenQPCMods while ive been on school. Id like to be of assistance if anyone has any questions or more importantly, if anyone has any custom ideas they want to see happen.
> Email me at [email protected] and we can take care of that right away.


Sent you an email.


----------



## letthiswork1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Hi, my name is Steve, and i have been an off-and-on employee of FrozenQPCMods while ive been on school. Id like to be of assistance if anyone has any questions or more importantly, if anyone has any custom ideas they want to see happen.
> Email me at [email protected] and we can take care of that right away.
> I assure you sir, we do exist.


Hmm ok,

Because ive send email last week and this week and haven't gotten a response, The facebook page is the same a lot of peopletrying to find you guys? I will forward to above email.

Thanks


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hello thread. Sorry I dont post much anymore, I've been very busy. Welcome Steve. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Bereapunk2006

No resolve was made other than telling me to buy a new reservoir since my old one was out of warranty.

Guess FrozenQ thinks its not their problem anymore even though it was their own screw up that brought up this issue in the first place.
The res will most likely go either in the trash or christmas ornament!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bereapunk2006*
> 
> No resolve was made other than telling me to buy a new reservoir since my old one was out of warranty.
> 
> Guess FrozenQ thinks its not their problem anymore even though it was their own screw up that brought up this issue in the first place.
> The res will most likely go either in the trash or christmas ornament!


What kind of fluid were you running in your system?


----------



## Mega Man

FQ good to hear from you. hope everything is ok you didnt log in for a while !~


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> FQ good to hear from you. hope everything is ok you didnt log in for a while !~


I'm assuming he's been excessively busy. XD
I ordered a Cold Fusion waterblock from their website a while ago, and it's been in the "Creating product" phase for a bit over two weeks now. I hadn't planned on swapping my waterblock out for a couple months anyways, so it's not a big deal, but it tells you that they're probably busy as a mother f****r right now.


----------



## Bereapunk2006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> What kind of fluid were you running in your system?


Distilled water, and silver coil.


----------



## Danisumi

Hey guys, I'm currently looking at the Fusion 4x 250mm but I still don't know if I should go for fluorescent blue or dark blue, since I've never seen a dark blue one. Does anyone of you have a picture around with a dark blue helix with the cathode on? I would appreciate if you could help me


----------



## feniks

has anybody tried modding FQPC Liquid Fusion V2 reservoir (160mm here) with a UV LED and so to speak drop the bulky inverter out of equation?

I am personally going inverterless in a week or two, tired of issues with CCFL bulbs/bars & poor inverters ... replaced them all (except the CCFL in the reservoir) a few times in a year as I had 2 more 12'' CCFL in case ... all those things go bad like crazy, I even had one inverter which was sparking on me sometimes ... recently replaced PSU (Tt TPG-1050M) because had trouble with SLI load on vid cads, now running a fresh Seasonic Platinum-1000 ... and am not too fond of using it with inverters ... decided to go with UV LED strips for case lighting, but am still undecided what to do about the liquid fusion reservoir, want to keep the UV glow, but don't want the CCFL inside it.

was thinking about removing the CCFL from reservoir and installing a 5mm UV LED in bottom of it, like one here:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15116/ele-1046/Tailed_UV_5mm_LED_w_2-Pin_Mobo_Header_Connector_LED-5T-UV.html

you think it would keep the UV glow on helix, at least partially?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> has anybody tried modding FQPC Liquid Fusion V2 reservoir (160mm here) with a UV LED and so to speak drop the bulky inverter out of equation?
> 
> I am personally going inverterless in a week or two, tired of issues with CCFL bulbs/bars & poor inverters ... replaced them all (except the CCFL in the reservoir) a few times in a year as I had 2 more 12'' CCFL in case ... all those things go bad like crazy, I even had one inverter which was sparking on me sometimes ... recently replaced PSU (Tt TPG-1050M) because had trouble with SLI load on vid cads, now running a fresh Seasonic Platinum-1000 ... and am not too fond of using it with inverters ... decided to go with UV LED strips for case lighting, but am still undecided what to do about the liquid fusion reservoir, want to keep the UV glow, but don't want the CCFL inside it.
> 
> was thinking about removing the CCFL from reservoir and installing a 5mm UV LED in bottom of it, like one here:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/15116/ele-1046/Tailed_UV_5mm_LED_w_2-Pin_Mobo_Header_Connector_LED-5T-UV.html
> 
> you think it would keep the UV glow on helix, at least partially?


I wouldn't even try to do that. Even if you did manage to get it modded properly UV LEDs aren't very efficient. They're basically purple lights with a fancy name, as they produce very little U.V. Light so you won't get much glow on any U.V. effects in your case. Stick to cathodes at least for U.V.


----------



## feniks

not much of a choice here, I can't use CCFL anymore it seems. they knock out the PSU sometimes under load, inverters I mean and I am tired of replacing them again. want to delete inverters from the system and for that I want to go with UV LEDs.

One I linked for the reservoir, but for the case I want to try those:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14102/lit-288/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_36_Count_SMD_LED_Light_Strip_-_30cm_-_UV_83126.html#blank

If there is not much real UV generated by those then I can live with it, just don't want inverters anymore.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I wouldn't even try to do that. Even if you did manage to get it modded properly UV LEDs aren't very efficient. They're basically purple lights with a fancy name, as they produce very little U.V. Light so you won't get much glow on any U.V. effects in your case. Stick to cathodes at least for U.V.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> not much of a choice here, I can't use CCFL anymore it seems. they knock out the PSU sometimes under load, inverters I mean and I am tired of replacing them again. want to delete inverters from the system and for that I want to go with UV LEDs.
> 
> One I linked for the reservoir, but for the case I want to try those:
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14102/lit-288/Phobya_LED_Flex_Light_36_Count_SMD_LED_Light_Strip_-_30cm_-_UV_83126.html#blank
> 
> If there is not much real UV generated by those then I can live with it, just don't want inverters anymore.


I'm fairly certain both Logisys and Lamptron both make inverterless cold cathode lights. You could always just pop an inverterless cold cathode UV bar in there to maintain your UV effects. That way you wouldn't have to sacrifice your UV effects. As to your mod, that's all custom stuff man. It's going to have to be thought up, planned, and executed yourself.









Or you could pay someone to do it for you, that's always an option.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'm fairly certain both Logisys and Lamptron both make inverterless cold cathode lights. You could always just pop an inverterless cold cathode UV bar in there to maintain your UV effects. That way you wouldn't have to sacrifice your UV effects. As to your mod, that's all custom stuff man. It's going to have to be thought up, planned, and executed yourself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or you could pay someone to do it for you, that's always an option.


according to my research the "inverterless" UV cold cathode bars contain a micro-inverter and so nothing is changed except for the form factor of inverter itself. did some research on that and found near all of them out of stock everywhere.

Lamptron also makes Flex Light Pro LED strips (UV), similar to what Phobya makes under name Phobya Flexlights. there is no sacrificing of UV effect, just the source is different (LEDs instead of CCFL), however Lamptron UV one is out of stock everywhere in US, so probably will go with Phobya's version.

I will not risk safety of my new PSU with those inverters anymore, I'm done with that for good. those things are so cheap and unreliable that I am refusing to replace or even use them anymore.

it's decided LOL, going with LEDs, with whatever outcome there will be.


----------



## Danisumi

COME ON! Does anyone out there have a dark blue FrozenQ res? I've never seen one in any video or picture .... However I already ordered mine with fluorescent blue, but I still want to see it :'(


----------



## feniks

oh, forgot to mention LOL!

I think I have algae growth in my Liquid Fusion res ...LMAO ... I run distilled water with silver kill coil, always used distilled water from Walgreens (same as Duane Reade in some states) ... just for the last refill a few months back I used gallon jug of distilled water from CVS ... hmmm ...









here's how it looks like now:


when I took flashlight to it those dirty patches become brownish in color, it's not a residue, I believe that's exactly how algae look alike ... hopefully they just grow on helix because it's about the only component open to ambient light (and having UV light).For now I put 2 drops of PT Nuke Copper into system and 2 drops of liquid soap too.

That being said ... I need to open the reservoir for scrubbing and haven't done that ever yet. Do the end caps unscrew or they are pressed in? How tight do they sit? I don't want to break the acrylic apart in process ...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> oh, forgot to mention LOL!
> 
> I think I have algae growth in my Liquid Fusion res ...LMAO ... I run distilled water with silver kill coil, always used distilled water from Walgreens (same as Duane Reade in some states) ... just for the last refill a few months back I used gallon jug of distilled water from CVS ... hmmm ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's how it looks like now:
> 
> 
> when I took flashlight to it those dirty patches become brownish in color, it's not a residue, I believe that's exactly how algae look alike ... hopefully they just grow on helix because it's about the only component open to ambient light (and having UV light).For now I put 2 drops of PT Nuke Copper into system and 2 drops of liquid soap too.
> 
> That being said ... I need to open the reservoir for scrubbing and haven't done that ever yet. Do the end caps unscrew or they are pressed in? How tight do they sit? I don't want to break the acrylic apart in process ...


Well, while you're waiting for a response from a frozen Q rep, you could try running hot water/vinegar in a 50/50 concentration through it. That should clean it out without needing to open it, it's at least worth a try. Be sure to flush it with distilled water after wards. If you don't flush the system the vinegar can wack out your loops Ph which can be bad.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well, while you're waiting for a response from a frozen Q rep, you could try running hot water/vinegar in a 50/50 concentration through it. That should clean it out without needing to open it, it's at least worth a try. Be sure to flush it with distilled water after wards. If you don't flush the system the vinegar can wack out your loops Ph which can be bad.


hmm, thanks, I was thinking about it, just not sure if vinegar could remove algae? also flushing each component alone is troublesome, especially with first vinegar & hot water together ...

I was thinking, maybe I could just drain it as much as I can ... which is pretty much all minus the contents of EX360 radiator (hard access, vertical placement, usually doesn't drain unless I disconnect and remove it from intake area), and then just fill it all up with vinegar or 2:1 vinegar to distilled solution (assuming around 30% old water still in one of rads) and use it this way for a few hours to heat the water loop up to let's say 40C?

or better yet, turn rad fans off and let it heat up to maybe 60C for an hour or so with pump re-circulating at full speed? would that work or I would just dislodge things and make the crap gather somewhere else (where it's not present, like inside blocks) and potentially clog some block or rad fins ... I would of course disassemble everything on the end and flush each part in the sink with hot tap water and then distilled water, just don't want to flush each and every part alone with vinegar, it's stinky business ...

would that help or rather quite the opposite?









lastly, I am curious if when algae shows up in reservoir, does it mean they are present elsewhere too, like in the blocks, rads and tubing too?

EDIT:
I checked thoroughly, and all tubing looks crystal clear so assuming inside of blocks/radiators is good too. that would mean that problem is present only inside the reservoir. is that normal with algae to show up in translucent res only (or they are everywhere and I am doomed LOL)?

EDIT2;
here's my current plan. I will drain the loop tomorrow and remove the reservoir only since I suspect algae growth started there because of light access and translucent walls (semi-transparent tubing looks clear). will try opening it for scrubbing, if I can't then I just flush it with vinegar and hot water until those patches are gone.
Then I will refill the loop with fresh known good distilled water with additives and monitor situation and commence full scale nuclear attack ... ekhm .. vinegar flushing on every component when needed


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> oh, forgot to mention LOL!
> 
> I think I have algae growth in my Liquid Fusion res ...LMAO ... I run distilled water with silver kill coil, always used distilled water from Walgreens (same as Duane Reade in some states) ... just for the last refill a few months back I used gallon jug of distilled water from CVS ... hmmm ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's how it looks like now:
> 
> 
> when I took flashlight to it those dirty patches become brownish in color, it's not a residue, I believe that's exactly how algae look alike ... hopefully they just grow on helix because it's about the only component open to ambient light (and having UV light).For now I put 2 drops of PT Nuke Copper into system and 2 drops of liquid soap too.
> 
> That being said ... I need to open the reservoir for scrubbing and haven't done that ever yet. Do the end caps unscrew or they are pressed in? How tight do they sit? I don't want to break the acrylic apart in process ...


If you still want to open it up, it looks new enough to be compression. So i would just twist and pull to get a cap off. You dont have to worry about cracking the reservoir tube. But i would watch out for the light tube and the helix on the inside. The helix could crack.

When putting it back together, your going to want to make sure the helix does not block up the side ports on the bottom cap. It will take some doing to get the caps back on the tube, because it needs to be a tight fit to stay watertight. Try to angle the tube into the cap slightly, and then pop it in that way. A little machine oil on the o-ring goes a long way. Most importantly, make sure the light tube gets back into the o-ring in the center of the cap, or it will leak. I would suggest a rubber mallet, doing it by hand will be difficult. If you have any other questions or issues during reassembly, feel free to pm me on here or email me at [email protected]


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> If you still want to open it up, it looks new enough to be compression. So i would just twist and pull to get a cap off. You dont have to worry about cracking the reservoir tube. But i would watch out for the light tube and the helix on the inside. The helix could crack.
> 
> When putting it back together, your going to want to make sure the helix does not block up the side ports on the bottom cap. It will take some doing to get the caps back on the tube, because it needs to be a tight fit to stay watertight. Try to angle the tube into the cap slightly, and then pop it in that way. A little machine oil on the o-ring goes a long way. Most importantly, make sure the light tube gets back into the o-ring in the center of the cap, or it will leak. I would suggest a rubber mallet, doing it by hand will be difficult. If you have any other questions or issues during reassembly, feel free to pm me on here or email me at [email protected]


thanks! will try that, once I get it drained and removed. I have a spare microres if things go wrong (hopefully all goes right though).


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> hmm, thanks, I was thinking about it, just not sure if vinegar could remove algae? also flushing each component alone is troublesome, especially with first vinegar & hot water together ...
> 
> I was thinking, maybe I could just drain it as much as I can ... which is pretty much all minus the contents of EX360 radiator (hard access, vertical placement, usually doesn't drain unless I disconnect and remove it from intake area), and then just fill it all up with vinegar or 2:1 vinegar to distilled solution (assuming around 30% old water still in one of rads) and use it this way for a few hours to heat the water loop up to let's say 40C?
> 
> or better yet, turn rad fans off and let it heat up to maybe 60C for an hour or so with pump re-circulating at full speed? would that work or I would just dislodge things and make the crap gather somewhere else (where it's not present, like inside blocks) and potentially clog some block or rad fins ... I would of course disassemble everything on the end and flush each part in the sink with hot tap water and then distilled water, just don't want to flush each and every part alone with vinegar, it's stinky business ...
> 
> would that help or rather quite the opposite?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lastly, I am curious if when algae shows up in reservoir, does it mean they are present elsewhere too, like in the blocks, rads and tubing too?
> 
> EDIT:
> I checked thoroughly, and all tubing looks crystal clear so assuming inside of blocks/radiators is good too. that would mean that problem is present only inside the reservoir. is that normal with algae to show up in translucent res only (or they are everywhere and I am doomed LOL)?
> 
> EDIT2;
> here's my current plan. I will drain the loop tomorrow and remove the reservoir only since I suspect algae growth started there because of light access and translucent walls (semi-transparent tubing looks clear). will try opening it for scrubbing, if I can't then I just flush it with vinegar and hot water until those patches are gone.
> Then I will refill the loop with fresh known good distilled water with additives and monitor situation and commence full scale nuclear attack ... ekhm .. vinegar flushing on every component when needed


vinegar is 91% water, 8%acidic acid, and 1%byproducts. The key thing there is acedic acid... That's some nasty stuff, any concentration of acedic acid beyond 80% will melt your flesh... Mixing vinegar 50/50 with hot water would result in 4% acedic acid, which should be more than enough to kill any algae, and assuming you mix it with hot water, the hot temp should help dislodge the algae.

Acedic acid is really potent stuff, I wouldn't worry about it not being up to the task


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> vinegar is 91% water, 8%acidic acid, and 1%byproducts. The key thing there is acedic acid... That's some nasty stuff, any concentration of acedic acid beyond 80% will melt your flesh... Mixing vinegar 50/50 with hot water would result in 4% acedic acid, which should be more than enough to kill any algae, and assuming you mix it with hot water, the hot temp should help dislodge the algae.
> 
> Acedic acid is really potent stuff, I wouldn't worry about it not being up to the task


hehe, thanks for putting that in layman terms







I'm not into chemistry much LOL
haven't had a chance to touch it tonight, perhaps tomorrow will do the drain and res flushing with hot water and vinegar (on removed reservoir) ... still debating about running a bit of vinegar (50/50 I mentioned) throughout the whole loop until the next day or so ... would 4% acedic acid corrode anything or damage tubing within 24 hours?

I won't be able to take it all apart for final flushing (no more vinegar at this point) until at least Friday evening or Saturday morning.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> hehe, thanks for putting that in layman terms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not into chemistry much LOL
> haven't had a chance to touch it tonight, perhaps tomorrow will do the drain and res flushing with hot water and vinegar (on removed reservoir) ... *still debating about running a bit of vinegar (50/50 I mentioned) throughout the whole loop until the next day or so ... would 4% acedic acid corrode anything or damage tubing within 24 hours*?
> 
> I won't be able to take it all apart for final flushing (no more vinegar at this point) until at least Friday evening or Saturday morning.


Well you would only /need/ to run it through your system for an hour or two to clean it out. It shouldn't be too hard on your metals. There was an article I was linked a while ago, after asking more or less the same question, and it showed a chart with the various corrosiveness, for lack of better words, of different liquids on different metals. On copper, and other non dissimilar metals, it wasn't much more corrosive than water. I can't seem to find the article right now. Hopefully whoever it was that linked it will see this (Think it may have be Jakusonfire who linked it, but I'm not 100% sure)

That being said, I wouldn't leave it in there any longer than you need to. You can also dunk you hand in water, then dunk it in molten lead, and a vapor bubble will form keeping your hand from being burned. My point being, just because the science is there doesn't mean you shouldn't exercise caution.

Anyways, an hour or two should be more than enough time to clean your loop.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well you would only /need/ to run it through your system for an hour or two to clean it out. It shouldn't be too hard on your metals. There was an article I was linked a while ago, after asking more or less the same question, and it showed a chart with the various corrosiveness, for lack of better words, of different liquids on different metals. On copper, and other non dissimilar metals, it wasn't much more corrosive than water. I can't seem to find the article right now. Hopefully whoever it was that linked it will see this (Think it may have be Jakusonfire who linked it, but I'm not 100% sure)
> 
> That being said, I wouldn't leave it in there any longer than you need to. You can also dunk you hand in water, then dunk it in molten lead, and a vapor bubble will form keeping your hand from being burned. My point being, just because the science is there doesn't mean you shouldn't exercise caution.
> 
> Anyways, an hour or two should be more than enough time to clean your loop.


ok thanks, that's re-assuring, will probably take the risk this evening if I have time to even start it. I need to clean the external rad fans anyways and put filters on pull fans, something I failed to think about when I built the system LOL.

I will probably first try cleaning the reservoir by flushing it alone and without full disassembly, something tells me that helix will crack on me when I touch it ... maybe it's just a bit of safety paranoia ... will see ... also I think, to remove the CCFL from it I'd just need to pull on CCFL cable to remove it and then insert the thin LED into there, I don't really need to remove the anything else (save for cleaning procedure).


----------



## feniks

phase 1 completed!

Thanks for advice and answers (including the PM from Frozen-Q), there were threads on caps, so no probs with removal or re-installation.

I have good news and bad news (sort of), good news is I was able to clean it up, but it took A LOT of effort and had to use dish washing scrubber pad and strong bathroom/kitchen detergent to remove the "algae" (not sure if they were it). interestingly one of my helices (red one) is not polished and has lots of micro-grooves where the dirt/algae adhered and were very difficult to remove.no way that hot water and vinegar would clean it up ever even in a thousand years ... a toothbrush, dish washing liquid detergent and hot water couldn't, vinegar either, Mr. Clean detergent did but only when I used abrasive pad on it and even then it took a while ... had much less trouble with polished blue helix - that one took very little effort to clean up.

interestingly I had the same dirt inside the center tube too, I believe I leaked some water into it once or twice when filling up reservoir since the holes are open on either end. The UV light must have caused algae growth over there right inside the cathode acrylic tube.

lastly, the threads on caps and big acrylic tank were awful and full of shavings, took me a while to remove them all after disassemble ... also the side ports I have are impossible to line up all together correctly with the bottom port, after playing around with it for 20 minutes I found out only either 2 of them can be open at same time (never 3), since either one of helices will block a side port or the bottom port will get blocked by the plastic plate (inside the cap).

here are pics I took, for now it's clean again and hopefully it stays this way! one of pictures shows the crud that stayed in a bowl after I scrubbed the parts clean off the dirt/algae/residue (whatever it was).









For now I refilled system with new distilled water with added 1 cup (~ 250mL) of 5% white vinegar (distilled) and running it in system until Friday evening or Saturday morning when I want to do a complete drain and removal of each component for flushing with hot water and then distilled water.

On a side note, the 3mm UV LEDs suck big times, they fit OK, but they give very faint light ... might try 5mm ones and see what they give. hopefully the Phobya LED strips (30 LEDs each strip) give more UV then 2 single LEDs I put in the reservoir ...


----------



## feniks

ouch! Bitspower fitings and temp sensors didn't survive the vinegar??? everything else looks pretty normal (shiny) ... just edges of darn compression fittings by Bitspower and whole water temp sensors (also by Bitspower) corroded ... was able to clean fittings rubbing the rust off with a scotchbrite, but the water temp sensors are going to garbage (I don't think Bitspower takes RMA on those?) ...

What baffles me however is WHY they corroded and nothing else? the old XSPC barbs still are shiny, no plating flaked off, no problems anywhere as I can see except for Bitspower stuff ...

set a new thread here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1417512/bitspower-fittings-and-water-temp-sensor-corrode-used-a-bit-of-vinegar-for-36hrs-in-the-loop


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> phase 1 completed!
> 
> Thanks for advice and answers (including the PM from Frozen-Q), there were threads on caps, so no probs with removal or re-installation.
> 
> I have good news and bad news (sort of), good news is I was able to clean it up, but it took A LOT of effort and had to use dish washing scrubber pad and strong bathroom/kitchen detergent to remove the "algae" (not sure if they were it). interestingly one of my helices (red one) is not polished and has lots of micro-grooves where the dirt/algae adhered and were very difficult to remove.no way that hot water and vinegar would clean it up ever even in a thousand years ... a toothbrush, dish washing liquid detergent and hot water couldn't, vinegar either, Mr. Clean detergent did but only when I used abrasive pad on it and even then it took a while ... had much less trouble with polished blue helix - that one took very little effort to clean up.
> 
> interestingly I had the same dirt inside the center tube too, I believe I leaked some water into it once or twice when filling up reservoir since the holes are open on either end. The UV light must have caused algae growth over there right inside the cathode acrylic tube.
> 
> lastly, the threads on caps and big acrylic tank were awful and full of shavings, took me a while to remove them all after disassemble ... also the side ports I have are impossible to line up all together correctly with the bottom port, after playing around with it for 20 minutes I found out only either 2 of them can be open at same time (never 3), since either one of helices will block a side port or the bottom port will get blocked by the plastic plate (inside the cap).
> 
> here are pics I took, for now it's clean again and hopefully it stays this way! one of pictures shows the crud that stayed in a bowl after I scrubbed the parts clean off the dirt/algae/residue (whatever it was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now I refilled system with new distilled water with added 1 cup (~ 250mL) of 5% white vinegar (distilled) and running it in system until Friday evening or Saturday morning when I want to do a complete drain and removal of each component for flushing with hot water and then distilled water.
> 
> On a side note, the 3mm UV LEDs suck big times, they fit OK, but they give very faint light ... might try 5mm ones and see what they give. hopefully the Phobya LED strips (30 LEDs each strip) give more UV then 2 single LEDs I put in the reservoir ...










there's no way that was algae if vinegar couldn't pull it off. My bet was it may have been flux from the solder used in the radiators depositing itself, which wouldn't react to vinegar.

Anyways, the problem with the LEDs isn't that they aren't bright, it's that they emit very little UV light. LEDs are usually very bright in the power used to light generated area, but the UV lights emit a LOT of purple light, and VERY LITTLE Ultra Violet light. This is why you rarely see anything but cathodes being used for UV purposes. To be honest I don't think a 5mm will make much of a difference, but considering they're only $1 or so it's definitely worth a try.

As to your fittings that's very odd. Were they nickle plated? That may have something to do with it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> phase 1 completed!
> 
> Thanks for advice and answers (including the PM from Frozen-Q), there were threads on caps, so no probs with removal or re-installation.
> 
> I have good news and bad news (sort of), good news is I was able to clean it up, but it took A LOT of effort and had to use dish washing scrubber pad and strong bathroom/kitchen detergent to remove the "algae" (not sure if they were it). interestingly one of my helices (red one) is not polished and has lots of micro-grooves where the dirt/algae adhered and were very difficult to remove.no way that hot water and vinegar would clean it up ever even in a thousand years ... a toothbrush, dish washing liquid detergent and hot water couldn't, vinegar either, Mr. Clean detergent did but only when I used abrasive pad on it and even then it took a while ... had much less trouble with polished blue helix - that one took very little effort to clean up.
> 
> interestingly I had the same dirt inside the center tube too, I believe I leaked some water into it once or twice when filling up reservoir since the holes are open on either end. The UV light must have caused algae growth over there right inside the cathode acrylic tube.
> 
> lastly, the threads on caps and big acrylic tank were awful and full of shavings, took me a while to remove them all after disassemble ... also the side ports I have are impossible to line up all together correctly with the bottom port, after playing around with it for 20 minutes I found out only either 2 of them can be open at same time (never 3), since either one of helices will block a side port or the bottom port will get blocked by the plastic plate (inside the cap).
> 
> here are pics I took, for now it's clean again and hopefully it stays this way! one of pictures shows the crud that stayed in a bowl after I scrubbed the parts clean off the dirt/algae/residue (whatever it was).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now I refilled system with new distilled water with added 1 cup (~ 250mL) of 5% white vinegar (distilled) and running it in system until Friday evening or Saturday morning when I want to do a complete drain and removal of each component for flushing with hot water and then distilled water.
> 
> On a side note, the 3mm UV LEDs suck big times, they fit OK, but they give very faint light ... might try 5mm ones and see what they give. hopefully the Phobya LED strips (30 LEDs each strip) give more UV then 2 single LEDs I put in the reservoir ...










there's no way that was algae if vinegar couldn't pull it off. My bet was it may have been flux from the solder depositing itself, which wouldn't react to vinegar.

Anyways, the problem with the LEDs isn't that they aren't bright, it's that they emit very little UV light. LEDs are usually very bright in the power used to light generated area, but the UV lights emit a LOT of purple light, and VERY LITTLE Ultra Violet light. This is why you rarely see anything but cathodes being used for UV purposes. To be honest I don't think a 5mm will make much of a difference, but considering they're only $1 or so it's definitely worth a try.

As to your fittings that's very odd. Were they nickle plated? That may have something to do with it.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there's no way that was algae if vinegar couldn't pull it off. My bet was it may have been flux from the solder used in the radiators depositing itself, which wouldn't react to vinegar.
> 
> Anyways, the problem with the LEDs isn't that they aren't bright, it's that they emit very little UV light. LEDs are usually very bright in the power used to light generated area, but the UV lights emit a LOT of purple light, and VERY LITTLE Ultra Violet light. This is why you rarely see anything but cathodes being used for UV purposes. To be honest I don't think a 5mm will make much of a difference, but considering they're only $1 or so it's definitely worth a try.
> 
> As to your fittings that's very odd. Were they nickle plated? That may have something to do with it.


thanks, it's actually possible that one of my rads (older one) was partially clogged with flux as I actually heard it releasing when I was running vinegar and let the water temps up to nearly 50C, the XSPC EX360 gave a loud hissing noise and then the bleeding problem stopped and was all good after I topped off the reservoir... so perhaps it was not algae after all, or maybe it was, just etched to non-polished helix (it came of pretty easily from the polished blue one).
I am still debating on UV LEDS, but have no time experimenting now, maybe I will just leave those weak 3mm LEDS in there and be done with it for now.

In other thread someone wrote that Bitspower is using several different metal platings/layers on their fittings ... wondering if one of those on the outside could actually be nickel instead of chrome or silver ... or steel ... that would explain corrosion.

EDIT:
yes, it was Nickel, actually all of my BP fittings were Nickel hence why they got corroded, especially that there was silver kill coil, PT Nuke Copper (sulphate) and lastly a vinegar solution in the loop, no wonders here, galvanic corrosion sped up when pH dropped to more acidic.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

This thread got interesting. Hello all. I've been very busy so I cannot update the chart just yet.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> thanks, it's actually possible that one of my rads (older one) was partially clogged with flux as I actually heard it releasing when I was running vinegar and let the water temps up to nearly 50C, the XSPC EX360 gave a loud hissing noise and then the bleeding problem stopped and was all good after I topped off the reservoir... so perhaps it was not algae after all, or maybe it was, just etched to non-polished helix (it came of pretty easily from the polished blue one).
> I am still debating on UV LEDS, but have no time experimenting now, maybe I will just leave those weak 3mm LEDS in there and be done with it for now.
> 
> In other thread someone wrote that Bitspower is using several different metal platings/layers on their fittings ... wondering if one of those on the outside could actually be nickel instead of chrome or silver ... or steel ... that would explain corrosion.
> 
> EDIT:
> yes, it was Nickel, actually all of my BP fittings were Nickel hence why they got corroded, especially that there was silver kill coil, PT Nuke Copper (sulphate) and lastly a vinegar solution in the loop, no wonders here, galvanic corrosion sped up when pH dropped to more acidic.


You also left it in your loop for 36 hours, and had copper sulphate in your loop.









Copper sulphate has a Ph value of around 3-4 depending on the concentration, which is pretty far off from a neutral Ph of 7. Vinegar and copper sulphate makes for a pretty potent acidity. I only looked at the effects on copper though, on that graph. Maybe later tonight I'll try to track down the article I saw. Perhaps nickle is a lot more reactive to it than copper is.

Anyways, if you can't manage to get a proper UV effect with your LEDs, and you can't use inverters, maybe you could wire a miniature UV cathode through an empty expansion slot, assuming you have one. It would be a pretty easy install, just need a blank expansion plate, and drill a hole in it.


----------



## Eufawria

250mm Green Helix with cathode removed as it snapped inside the tube which is weird....


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> 
> 
> 250mm Green Helix with cathode removed as it snapped inside the tube which is weird....


That is weird. Email me, we can take care of that.

[email protected]


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> You also left it in your loop for 36 hours, and had copper sulphate in your loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Copper sulphate has a Ph value of around 3-4 depending on the concentration, which is pretty far off from a neutral Ph of 7. Vinegar and copper sulphate makes for a pretty potent acidity. I only looked at the effects on copper though, on that graph. Maybe later tonight I'll try to track down the article I saw. Perhaps nickle is a lot more reactive to it than copper is.
> 
> Anyways, if you can't manage to get a proper UV effect with your LEDs, and you can't use inverters, maybe you could wire a miniature UV cathode through an empty expansion slot, assuming you have one. It would be a pretty easy install, just need a blank expansion plate, and drill a hole in it.


The thing is, as I said, I wasn't even aware of having Nickel in anything ... actually I stated that to Koolance a while ago when replacing my pump in RMA and they had no objections after I listed all components either (go figure how confusing that is for everybody, even techs). The marketing names like "Silver Shining" or "Chrome look" are very misleading.

Anyways, there were 2 drops of copper sulphate in the whole loop (around 2.0 L capacity calls for 4 drops) and only 200-250mL of 5% white distilled vinegar in it, that means half a recommended dosage of copper sulphate and merely 0.6% solution of acetic acid (vinegar acid) in distilled water overall, that is fairly mild and no way near the pH you mentioned. copper/brass/chrome were not affected at all, only Nickel and Silver was (those metals don't like each others to start), actually all affected fittings were either Nickel plated or Silver plated, to my surprise after I double-checked on them in technical specs on manufacturer websites.

In fact Nickel/Zinc/Iron/Steel are the metals that go down in acidic solutions, as I learned that is a process called dezincification (or other names dependent on specific metal element) where the concentrated Copper Sulphate can be used to achieve that.

The way the fittings reacted, only confirm that most manufacturers use the cheapest possible Nickel plating method (very thin and not protected against any corrosion) like all BP Nickel plated fittings, EK stop plugs and Koolance fittings with thin walls while other Nickel plated components stayed intact becase they were plated with Nickel using a different method (having anti-corrosive protection) like a thick walled Koolance Inline Drain Valve (stayed intact).

3 weeks of running half dosage of Copper Sulphate was probably enough to achieve all that while the whole vinegar acid fuss you are spreading did literally nothing in comparison (it's solution was 0.6% vs regular 5-8%, that's 10 times less than normal vinegar) except for cleaning off organic life and dirty spots.

I met 2 more OCN members complaining on BP fittings getting corroded, one was using Silver Kill Coil only other was using a Silver Kill Coil together with Copper Sulphate, they used no vinegar solution in loop.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 250mm Green Helix with cathode removed as it snapped inside the tube which is weird....


That is odd but it sure is a nice looking res!









So did the CCFL snap or the acrylic housing for the CCFL?


----------



## Quantuh

Thats odd but at least you can replace it


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is, as I said, I wasn't even aware of having Nickel in anything ... actually I stated that to Koolance a while ago when replacing my pump in RMA and they had no objections after I listed all components either (go figure how confusing that is for everybody, even techs). The marketing names like "Silver Shining" or "Chrome look" are very misleading.
> 
> Anyways, there were 2 drops of copper sulphate in the whole loop (around 2.0 L capacity calls for 4 drops) and only 200-250mL of 5% white distilled vinegar in it, that means half a recommended dosage of copper sulphate and merely 0.6% solution of acetic acid (vinegar acid) in distilled water overall, that is fairly mild and no way near the pH you mentioned. copper/brass/chrome were not affected at all, only Nickel and Silver was (those metals don't like each others to start), actually all affected fittings were either Nickel plated or Silver plated, to my surprise after I double-checked on them in technical specs on manufacturer websites.
> 
> In fact Nickel/Zinc/Iron/Steel are the metals that go down in acidic solutions, as I learned that is a process called dezincification (or other names dependent on specific metal element) where the concentrated Copper Sulphate can be used to achieve that.
> 
> The way the fittings reacted, only confirm that most manufacturers use the cheapest possible Nickel plating method (very thin and not protected against any corrosion) like all BP Nickel plated fittings, EK stop plugs and Koolance fittings with thin walls while other Nickel plated components stayed intact becase they were plated with Nickel using a different method (having anti-corrosive protection) like a thick walled Koolance Inline Drain Valve (stayed intact).
> 
> 3 weeks of running half dosage of Copper Sulphate was probably enough to achieve all that while the whole vinegar acid fuss you are spreading did literally nothing in comparison (it's solution was 0.6% vs regular 5-8%, that's 10 times less than normal vinegar) except for cleaning off organic life and dirty spots.
> 
> 
> I met 2 more OCN members complaining on BP fittings getting corroded, one was using Silver Kill Coil only other was using a Silver Kill Coil together with Copper Sulphate, they used no vinegar solution in loop


Ah, I see. Poor nickle plating strikes again!


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Ah, I see. Poor nickle plating strikes again!


exactly ... poor plating, and Nickel in action once more ... funny that even the BP True Silver compressions (0.999 Silver plated) corroded in process too right along the Nickel ones ... after some digging on the web I also found reports of BP True Gold (0.999 Gold plated) fittings getting corroded ... it's just all so ridiculous ... decided to remove all Nickel and Silver components, even chrome plated ones too as I am no longer sure how good they are (XSPC) in a long run and leave only bare copper and bare brass metals ... while for fittings I went with a new set of black paint coated fittings from Swiftech ... time will tell ... my credit card bill got swollen up a bit today LOL.

On a side note, I have been using vinegar for cleaning copper blocks, brass radiators always, submerging them in it or filling them up with it, either hot or cold, leaving for hours sometimes, NOTHING ever corroded, and mind that I am speaking now of non-diluted 5% white vinegar straight from bottle. I also use citric acids (lemon juice) for various metals cleaning, also white toothpaste for silver cleaning, etc, really nothing wrong with that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> exactly ... poor plating, and Nickel in action once more ... funny that even the BP True Silver compressions (0.999 Silver plated) corroded in process too right along the Nickel ones ... after some digging on the web I also found reports of BP True Gold (0.999 Gold plated) fittings getting corroded ... it's just all so ridiculous ... decided to remove all Nickel and Silver components, even chrome plated ones too as I am no longer sure how good they are (XSPC) in a long run and leave only bare copper and bare brass metals ... while for fittings I went with a new set of black paint coated fittings from Swiftech ... time will tell ... my credit card bill got swollen up a bit today LOL.
> 
> On a side note, I have been using vinegar for cleaning copper blocks, brass radiators always, submerging them in it or filling them up with it, either hot or cold, leaving for hours sometimes, NOTHING ever corroded, and mind that I am speaking now of non-diluted 5% white vinegar straight from bottle. I also use citric acids (lemon juice) for various metals cleaning, also white toothpaste for silver cleaning, etc, really nothing wrong with that.


swiftech silver/chrome fittings are done with a different process and to much higher standards imo. notice how you never see issues like this on swiftech fittings.... and they even cost way less go figure .....

the whole koolance issue is the reason i wont use koolance.... EVER in my loop ( i do have a rad bracket on the back of my case... but that is not inside my loop )


----------



## Eufawria

Can you guys imagine if the helix inside span slowly. Now that is something I'd buy without question.

Anyway, here is an image of a broken cathode for those who are curious.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> swiftech silver/chrome fittings are done with a different process and to much higher standards imo. notice how you never see issues like this on swiftech fittings.... and they even cost way less go figure .....
> 
> the whole koolance issue is the reason i wont use koolance.... EVER in my loop ( i do have a rad bracket on the back of my case... but that is not inside my loop )


for those same reasons I refuse to use EK blocks or fittings, had one EK stop plug in EK pump top (only EK part), the plug corroded, Nickel plating washed away, only brass left on it on the wet side LOL.

I have a Koolance D5 pump and it's been great for me, running 24V constantly, but then that's not a Koolance manufactured component









have one Koolance fitting (VID SLI bridge), Nickel corroded slightly in one tiny spot at nozzle edge, the other (and last) Koolance part I have is the 5-way inline drain valve, zero corrosion, most likely a different/thicker Nickel plating was used on it.

In my book, Bitspower is soon to become the next EK in terms of Nickel flaking off over time, their plating method is horrible, I see reports of Gold and Silver plating on BP fittings corroding as well.
Mind that Nickel slowly reacts with Copper (pure reason why EK's flawed Nickel plating was such a failure on Copper material blocks) and that gets only worse if Silver is present and/or water is not changed for a while (becoming a stronger electrolyte over time).
I see only one solution for Bitspower, paint coated fittings, similar to what Swiftech did with their black Lok-Seal series. I also picked Swiftech, because their fittings are much cheaper price wise (not quality wise I hope) over over-priced BP.

I saw Swiftech's chrome fittings and liked them, but chose to go with their black painted fittings after all to eliminate even that metal from the puzzle and further minimize the galvanic corrosion potential to only the one going on between Copper and Brass.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> *snip*
> *I see only one solution for Bitspower, paint coated fittings, similar to what Swiftech did with their black Lok-Seal series*. I also picked Swiftech, because their fittings are much cheaper price wise (not quality wise I hope) over over-priced BP.
> 
> I saw Swiftech's chrome fittings and liked them, but chose to go with their black painted fittings after all to eliminate even that metal from the puzzle and further minimize the galvanic corrosion potential to only the one going on between Copper and Brass.


I never understood why they don't just use a clear coat like they do on cars.







The liquid would have no direct contact with the metal, if it scratches it's extremely hard to see, it's a cheap material, and wouldn't be much different as far as manufacturing than the painted fittings.

I think we're all getting a bit off topic though. This is, after all, the FrozenQ Reservoir Club page.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I never understood why they don't just use a clear coat like they do on cars.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The liquid would have no direct contact with the metal, if it scratches it's extremely hard to see, it's a cheap material, and wouldn't be much different as far as manufacturing than the painted fittings.
> 
> I think we're all getting a bit off topic though. This is, after all, the FrozenQ Reservoir Club page.


right, sorry for OT. I like they idea of clear coated fittings though!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> Can you guys imagine if the helix inside span slowly. Now that is something I'd buy without question.
> 
> Anyway, here is an image of a broken cathode for those who are curious.


This is actually something we're working on making









Also, we got your replacement cathode shipped today.


----------



## knanda

I installed X4 Quad Helix reservoir with bottom hole as Inlet. I don't see any waterfall effect guys. Can someone tell me if I am doing something wrong?


----------



## Eufawria

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> This is actually something we're working on making
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, we got your replacement cathode shipped today.


Thanks so much Frozen-Q. Best customer support everrrrrrrrr


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I installed X4 Quad Helix reservoir with bottom hole as Inlet. I don't see any waterfall effect guys. Can someone tell me if I am doing something wrong?


I have similar setup with Liquid Fusion V2 160mL ... why do you expect a waterfall effect again?


----------



## amanaman

Just a couple of Frozens works.


----------



## seross69

Got a Huge custom FrozenQ Reservoir Coming can't wait to get it so I can post some pictures of it...


----------



## amanaman

Every time I hear big and custom res. I think of this one LOL

http://www.overclock.net/t/332004/special-services-volcano-reservoir-for-puzzledazn/240


----------



## foreign03

Just finished my 3930k build. The guys at frozen q make a nice res. To me the res is the showpiece and makes the build look a little different compared to other brands reservoirs.


----------



## nyxagamemnon

I have two different V series with side ports, and the spacing on the side ports (1 directly from FrozenQ) the other from PPC) are not the same. There is little or no spacing between the two ports on the FrozenQ (direct) while there's a huge gap between the one from PPC. I'm wondering why is this? I've ordered side caps and I'm not sure which design this will fit. Why aren't the side ports a standard spacing. Also the one from FrozenQ has a larger outer diameter around the G1/4 Ports There both the None screw on cap version. (which Is a Pain in the ass to remove)

Also on the Center part on the Purple dark one doesn't sit all the way down below the ports like it does on the other one. So what gives?


----------



## Mega Man

different rev. products. he does what his customers ask and changes products accordingly


----------



## nyxagamemnon

There both the Same pop top rev none screw the spacing on the bottom ports is what's different.


----------



## Mega Man

then why are the holes spaced differently.... different revs ... just because one thing is the same does not mean all are


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> different rev. products. he does what his customers ask and changes products accordingly


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyxagamemnon*
> 
> There both the Same pop top rev none screw the spacing on the bottom ports is what's different.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> then why are the holes spaced differently.... different revs ... just because one thing is the same does not mean all are


Are the V series factory sealed? Quite a few frozenQ products are not, and allow PPCs/FrozenCPU to simply swap out some of the parts to order, such as the cathodes and res caps.

That could explain a lot. We'd need confirmation from Alex though.


----------



## Steveo2400

The v series is not sealed. We have three different color caps that are all compatible (frosted acrylic, white, and black) and of course different color helices. All of the parts are replaceable.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foreign03*
> 
> 
> Just finished my 3930k build. The guys at frozen q make a nice res. To me the res is the showpiece and makes the build look a little different compared to other brands reservoirs.


Tell me more about your res caps. Are those covers? What is the material? I really like the shinny look!


----------



## foreign03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Tell me more about your res caps. Are those covers? What is the material? I really like the shinny look!


Yes they are end caps ordered through frozen q they are plastic/acrylic can't remember hiw much I paid but they were around $20. Very solid and easy to install they just slide on with a Allen key grommette.


----------



## foreign03




----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foreign03*
> 
> Yes they are end caps ordered through frozen q they are plastic/acrylic can't remember hiw much I paid but they were around $20. Very solid and easy to install they just slide on with a Allen key grommette.


Actually, good sir, those caps are made of brushed aluminum.


----------



## Barefooter

So they can be polished to a chrome like finish then? I'm planning a build with some chrome and would love to be able to polish those end caps!

Beautiful reservoir!


----------



## foreign03

Thanks I'm not 100percent on being able to polish them to chrome maybe someone else might have info on it. But it doesn't look like it


----------



## Eufawria

Hahaha, I spent $20 AU on an UN mount to mount my FrozQ onto a radiator then I went on their website to see they sell 120 mountings for the reservoir directly. Silly me.


----------



## Danisumi

So, does anyone have an dark blue helix in his frozenq res? I only saw fluorescent ones.


----------



## feniks

haha, wow! Phobya UV Led strips (30 leds each) are amazing!not enough UV huh? check this out!
















night shot Before - 2x 12'' UV cold cathodes at bottom and top rails plus 6'' CCFL in FQPC reservoir, blue 3mm LEDs in Razor GPU blocks:


night shot After - (2x 30 LED UV strips at bottom and top plus 2x 5mm UV LEDs in FQPC reservoir, 3mm UV LEDs in Razor GPU blocks:


night shot with uv LED strips turned off (have them on fan controller) you are seeing only 2x 3mm UV LEDs in razor blocks (very dim) and 2x 5mm UV LEDs in reservoir (plus red exhaust fan, but that's obvious LOL):


still not enough UV without CCFL?
















I agree, the color is shifted a bit with UV LED strips, the UV Blue tubing gets a marine greenish blue tint to it, but man! that is hella bright! and also gives that purplish visible light that I was counting on!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> haha, wow! Phobya UV Led strips (30 leds each) are amazing!not enough UV huh? check this out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> night shot Before - 2x 12'' UV cold cathodes at bottom and top rails plus 6'' CCFL in FQPC reservoir, blue 3mm LEDs in Razor GPU blocks:
> 
> 
> night shot After - (2x 30 LED UV strips at bottom and top plus 2x 5mm UV LEDs in FQPC reservoir, 3mm UV LEDs in Razor GPU blocks:
> 
> 
> *snip*


You're comparing 2 cold cathodes to 65 LEDs.... The LEDs are bright as hell, yeah, but the amount of UV light is still a less than when you had the cathodes. It's not a LOT less, but you are comparing 65 LEDs to 2 cathodes.









Of course this is all personal preference, if your happy with the setup that's all that matters.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> You're comparing 2 cold cathodes to 65 LEDs.... The LEDs are bright as hell, yeah, but the amount of UV light is still a less than when you had the cathodes. It's not a LOT less, but you are comparing 65 LEDs to 2 cathodes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course this is all personal preference, if your happy with the setup that's all that matters.


LOL, of course I am that's the whole point, LOL! You can't compare a single LED to a CCFL, that's like comparing a single star in the sky to an infinite universe!









and power draw of 2 cathodes vs 64 LEDs? not sure, but something tells me way less still than a single CCFL not to mention 3 of them (via 2 inverters).
also consider heat output of a CCFL vs LEDs, it's like comparing an oven vs room temperature









besides as I said, I am done for good with flakey cheap Chinese inverters, I lost a PSU recently and maybe that's along shot, but I have a feeling that those cheap inverters damaged it over time. for sure they could knock out even a good PSU under load sometimes, that tells something about inverters in general ... Logisys/Gvans, those are crap brands I used LOL, done with CCFL.

Pretty happy with LEDs, finally got that purplish look, it seems more ghastly in real than in those crappy cell phone pics I posted (a pic of CCFL rig was done with DSLR but I don't have it anymore).
Kinda funny, now all that used to be matte black is now giving a purplishly eerie effect







getting used to it


----------



## Eufawria

I still prefer CCFL as it has more of the effect of a UV Glow rather then some purple light although I have seen UV lights where it emits a blue glow but I don't think their intended for computer use, more for forensic science.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> I still prefer CCFL as it has more of the effect of a UV Glow rather then some purple light although *I have seen UV lights where it emits a blue glow but I don't think their intended for computer use, more for forensic science.*


Those emit UVa light, which is a completely different wavelengths than the UV light Blacklights produce. (Black Lights produce UVc light)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> LOL, of course I am that's the whole point, LOL! You can't compare a single LED to a CCFL, that's like comparing a single star in the sky to an infinite universe!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and power draw of 2 cathodes vs 64 LEDs? not sure, but something tells me way less still than a single CCFL not to mention 3 of them (via 2 inverters).
> also consider heat output of a CCFL vs LEDs, it's like comparing an oven vs room temperature
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*


Just did a bit of research so I can quote some usable stats, instead of just idle claims and opinions.

"Black Light Bulbs" have an internal phosphor coating, and emit 85% UV light.
"UV" LEDs emit 5%-8% UV light.

Again, it's nice to see you got it working without your inverters, I'm still skeptical of UV LEDs though.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> "Black Light Bulbs" have an internal phosphor coating, and emit 85% UV light.
> "UV" LEDs emit 5%-8% UV light.
> 
> Again, it's nice to see you got it working without your inverters, I'm still skeptical of UV LEDs though.


OK, thanks.
That is fine with me, since I was actually looking into purple visible spectrum of light as well, it gives a nice glow to black surfaces (they look kinda like anodized deep violet/purple).
The UV output of 2x 30 Phobya LED strips is more or less comparable (it's rather more UV) than 2 CCFLs I had before, but the color is slightly shifted, likely because of way more visible spectrum, and that is purple, not the CCFL's blueish violet.
I turned them down a bit, so they do not blind me at night though, UV hoses still glow nicely and there is less purple background light now.

Just saying, it's an option if somebody (like me) suddenly starts hating CCFL and still wants the UV effect.

All in all, I am happy with those


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> OK, thanks.
> That is fine with me, since I was actually looking into purple visible spectrum of light as well, it gives a nice glow to black surfaces (they look kinda like anodized deep violet/purple).
> The UV output of 2x 30 Phobya LED strips is more or less comparable (it's rather more UV) than 2 CCFLs I had before, *but the color is slightly shifted, likely because of way more visible spectrum, and that is purple, not the CCFL's blueish violet.*
> I turned them down a bit, so they do not blind me at night though, UV hoses still glow nicely and there is less purple background light now.
> 
> Just saying, it's an option if somebody (like me) suddenly starts hating CCFL and still wants the UV effect.
> 
> All in all, I am happy with those


Such claims are further supported by the research I did. 20% of a UV LED's light 385nm-400nm wavelength, which is borderline UV/visible purple. The rest is visible purple. If you had any UV reactive coolant, it would be interesting to see how that looks in reaction to your setup.

But here we go highjacking this thread again.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Such claims are further supported by the research I did. 20% of a UV LED's light 385nm-400nm wavelength, which is borderline UV/visible purple. The rest is visible purple. If you had any UV reactive coolant, it would be interesting to see how that looks in reaction to your setup.
> 
> But here we go highjacking this thread again.


LOL, I think we are becoming (in)famous for derailing this thread every second page ha ha!

... but I can stretch it towards a lighting mod on FQPC reservoir! so sit tight, no worries, we are still on topic here this time








BTW: 5mm UV LEDs are giving more light than 3mm ones did, helix in reservoir is visibly glowing more. could be that 5mm ones are powered off +12v rail (with proper built-in resistors) while the 3mm ones were using +5V (again, with proper resistors) ... or they are simply bigger LOL.

my FQPC res (UV Red + UV Blue helix) with 3mm ones (one inserted from top, other from bottom of center tube) was faintly glowing, pretty much only the UV Red had UV effect while transparent UV Blue was very dim (near to none). with 5mm ones it looks more uniformly lit up and glowing noticeably brighter.








now back to derailing ... here is a good pictorial comparison of same dyed coolant lit up by a CCFL vs Phobya LED strip, you can see the same thing as I see, slightly shifted spectrum:
http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=235246


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> LOL, I think we are becoming (in)famous for derailing this thread every second page ha ha!
> 
> ... but I can stretch it towards a lighting mod on FQPC reservoir! so sit tight, no worries, we are still on topic here this time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW: 5mm UV LEDs are giving more light than 3mm ones did, helix in reservoir is visibly glowing more. could be that 5mm ones are powered off +12v rail (with proper built-in resistors) while the 3mm ones were using +5V (again, with proper resistors) ... or they are simply bigger LOL.
> 
> my FQPC res (UV Red + UV Blue helix) with 3mm ones (one inserted from top, other from bottom of center tube) was faintly glowing, pretty much only the UV Red had UV effect while transparent UV Blue was very dim (near to none). with 5mm ones it looks more uniformly lit up and glowing noticeably brighter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now back to derailing ... here is a good pictorial comparison of same dyed coolant lit up by a CCFL vs Phobya LED strip, you can see the same thing as I see, slightly shifted spectrum:
> http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=235246


It looks like the LED UV light doesn't penetrate as well, making small/thin bodies of liquids shine bright, but larger/thicker bodies of liquid don't get effected as much.

Hu, I wonder how a UV laser LED would look in the liquid









I'm using my Frozenq Warpdrive's fillport as a liquid intake, in conjunction with a y splitter to maintain fillport capabilities. I think I'm going to take off the fillport cap, and pop in an empty LED cap, then put a UV laser LED into it. I wonder how that would look


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> It looks like the LED UV light doesn't penetrate as well, making small/thin bodies of liquids shine bright, but larger/thicker bodies of liquid don't get effected as much.
> 
> Hu, I wonder how a UV laser LED would look in the liquid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using my Frozenq Warpdrive's fillport as a liquid intake, in conjunction with a y splitter to maintain fillport capabilities. I think I'm going to take off the fillport cap, and pop in an empty LED cap, then put a UV laser LED into it. I wonder how that would look


by all means, feel free to experiment with it! and don't forget to post some piccies back here








laser can be stronger, but I believe the problem will be that is a focus beam with sharp "edges", so it may only light up whatever hits its path and nothing on sides ... unless it gets some prismatic effect when going through acrylic









I read once a thread where some guy put a UV LED strip (short one, couldn't find such when I looked for it) behind the reservoir. it lit up everything pretty nicely. that's an idea too.

and yes, UV LEDs seem not to penetrate the fluid as well as light generated by CCFL, glad you noticed that too.
However I have fixed that side effect by simply keeping those 5mm LEDs at bottom and top of center tube in reservoir, so it's always lit up, just way more when LED strips in case are on, or a bit dimmer when those are off. either way it shines!









e.g. like this (2x 5mm UV LEDs always on at full power), room lights off:

a) LED strips off, room ambient tungsten light on


b) LED strips off, room ambient tungsten light off - excuse the noise of my ancient digital camera (not a DSLR)


c) LED strips at low power (around 8-9V), room ambient tungsten light off


d) LED strips at full 12V blast (much more purple ambient now), room ambient tungsten light off


Hope that helps!

What I was thinking, was trying to find a matching 6'' UV LED stick (5mm in diameter or so) or something similar that could be slid through the center tube of reservoir, that would be perfect!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> by all means, feel free to experiment with it! and don't forget to post some piccies back here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> laser can be stronger, but I believe the problem will be that is a focus beam with sharp "edges", so it may only light up whatever hits its path and nothing on sides ... unless it gets some prismatic effect when going through acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I read once a thread where some guy put a UV LED strip (*short one, couldn't find such when I looked for it*) behind the reservoir. it lit up everything pretty nicely. that's an idea too.
> 
> *snip*
> 
> Hope that helps!
> 
> What I was thinking, was trying to find a matching 6'' UV LED stick (5mm in diameter or so) or something similar that could be slid through the center tube of reservoir, that would be perfect!


They sell LED strips with a separate + signals and ground signals to each diode, along with separate resistors for each diode (or occasionally for every three diodes) that are designed to be cut to ANY distance, you just slide a rubber cap at the end, and it's ready to use.

Take a good look a LED strips description, I guarantee most of the ones you looked at are designed to be cut to any size.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*
> 
> by all means, feel free to experiment with it! and don't forget to post some piccies back here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> laser can be stronger, but I believe the problem will be that is a focus beam with sharp "edges", so it may only light up whatever hits its path and nothing on sides ... unless it gets some prismatic effect when going through acrylic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I read once a thread where some guy put a UV LED strip (short one, couldn't find such when I looked for it) behind the reservoir. it lit up everything pretty nicely. that's an idea too.*
> 
> and yes, UV LEDs seem not to penetrate the fluid as well as light generated by CCFL, glad you noticed that too.
> However I have fixed that side effect by simply keeping those 5mm LEDs at bottom and top of center tube in reservoir, so it's always lit up, just way more when LED strips in case are on, or a bit dimmer when those are off. either way it shines!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: SNIP
> 
> 
> 
> e.g. like this (2x 5mm UV LEDs always on at full power), room lights off:
> 
> a) LED strips off, room ambient tungsten light on
> 
> 
> b) LED strips off, room ambient tungsten light off - excuse the noise of my ancient digital camera (not a DSLR)
> 
> 
> c) LED strips at low power (around 8-9V), room ambient tungsten light off
> 
> 
> d) LED strips at full 12V blast (much more purple ambient now), room ambient tungsten light off
> 
> 
> Hope that helps!
> 
> 
> What I was thinking, was trying to find a matching 6'' UV LED stick (5mm in diameter or so) or something similar that could be slid through the center tube of reservoir, that would be perfect!


I think you might be talking about me







lol jk

I did a lot of testing with LEDs behind the reservoir. Most LED strips do have markings where you can cut them down every 3rd LED. Some do have positive and negative markings, others do not. But just by looking at the strip, there should be two dots every third LED, these are solder points. Just cut right through them, and solder a two wires to a connector and put some heat shrink on it. Your good to go!!

But I can recall if the Phoyba strips had them or not.

When I was messing the LEDs behind the reservoir, I did find that there are two spots that are invisible from the front. Not directly behind the reservoir, but a little to each side and you couldnt see the LEDs.


----------



## feniks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> They sell LED strips with a separate + signals and ground signals to each diode, along with separate resistors for each diode (or occasionally for every three diodes) that are designed to be cut to ANY distance, you just slide a rubber cap at the end, and it's ready to use.
> 
> Take a good look a LED strips description, I guarantee most of the ones you looked at are designed to be cut to any size.


ohh, I missed that ... LOL, thanks for saying or I'd never known they can be trimmed down to length









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> I think you might be talking about me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol jk
> 
> I did a lot of testing with LEDs behind the reservoir. Most LED strips do have markings where you can cut them down every 3rd LED. Some do have positive and negative markings, others do not. But just by looking at the strip, there should be two dots every third LED, these are solder points. Just cut right through them, and solder a two wires to a connector and put some heat shrink on it. Your good to go!!
> 
> But I can recall if the Phoyba strips had them or not.
> 
> When I was messing the LEDs behind the reservoir, I did find that there are two spots that are invisible from the front. Not directly behind the reservoir, but a little to each side and you couldnt see the LEDs.


hah!








if you posted a pic of you strip behind res then it could have very well been you I was talking about















and as the matter of fact I can remember the strip going slightly sideways behind the res, kinda like you described









thanks for a detailed description of how to shorten a LED strip! I might try that one day. for now I will stick to 2x 5mm UV LEDs, they seem to do the trick very well too!

Using those, it actually came pre-sleeved black (even though I ordered plain unsleeved model, wanted to sleeve it myself), they work well!
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10682/ele-665/Tailed_Dual_5mm_LED_w_4-Pin_Pass-Thru_Connector_-_UV_LED-5D2-UV.html


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Those UV LEDs turn everything purple. NTY.


----------



## Danisumi

Well, a super YAY and NAY in the same package >.> got my Res today.







yeah that's nice, but the problem is, I couldn't customize it more. The only thing I could customize was ONE color, (instead of four) and the cablesleeving color. I couldn't customize the end caps or the cathod color either. Then I was like, ok let's get an fluorescent one (rather than fluorescent blue/dark blue mixed).
And look at what I got







I got a 4 coloured one.....
It's still nice from Steve to give a UV and a White one free of charge, thanks for that








but hopefully you can help me with my problem!? Maybe you mixed up 2 orders?

Oh and is it new to get black clamps for the res? I thought the would come with clear ones.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

You lost me dude.


----------



## Steveo2400

Send me an email at the address i gave you on the paper, and we will take care of it.


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Send me an email at the address i gave you on the paper, and we will take care of it.


oki doki


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Well that's better.


----------



## tw33k

I just installed a Liquid Fusion X4 Quad but broke the cathode. A replacement is on the way but is it a simple matter of just inserting it or is there more to it?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Nope. It just slides in and out and if it doesn't stay take the loop side of a fastener and wrap it around the bottom to hold it in place.


----------



## tw33k

Too easy. Thanks


----------



## NinjaSushi2

NP.


----------



## Eufawria

The person who built my FrozQ, damn you built it like a brick. My hands are gone now.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Lulz.


----------



## Eufawria

Would any of you recommend using the fill port as an inlet as well. I still planning on how I'm going with my tubing but yeh.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> Would any of you recommend using the fill port as an inlet as well. I still planning on how I'm going with my tubing but yeh.


Yeah it works fine, just be sure to pick up one of these.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11866/ex-tub-716/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_II_BP-MBWP-C18.html?tl=g30c97s169#blank

Otherwise it forced air trapped at the top of your reservoir down into the tube, and creates this waterfall effect with bubbles. It's ultimately harmless, as the bubbles almost never make it to the bottom of the reservoir so it won't harm your pump or anything but it just looks piss poor. That little fitting inputs the water below the top level, so it prevents that.


----------



## seross69

How about this for a extreme reservoir form FrozenQ??



got one more coming for the other side.

Now that is *Excessive Insanity!!!*


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> Would any of you recommend using the fill port as an inlet as well. I still planning on how I'm going with my tubing but yeh.


I've done it before, works fine imo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yeah it works fine, just be sure to pick up one of these.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11866/ex-tub-716/Bitspower_G_14_Matte_Black_Aqua-Pipe_II_BP-MBWP-C18.html?tl=g30c97s169#blank
> 
> Otherwise it forced air trapped at the top of your reservoir down into the tube, and creates this waterfall effect with bubbles. It's ultimately harmless, as the bubbles almost never make it to the bottom of the reservoir so it won't harm your pump or anything but it just looks piss poor. That little fitting inputs the water below the top level, so it prevents that.


What!? Na.. He doesn't need that useless crap to fill a res. Now he could always go with a fillport though if he wanted to be able to fill from outside the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> How about this for a extreme reservoir form FrozenQ??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> got one more coming for the other side.
> 
> Now that is *Excessive Insanity!!!*


I've been watching that build log for sometime. lol


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> How about this for a extreme reservoir form FrozenQ??
> 
> 
> 
> got one more coming for the other side.
> 
> Now that is *Excessive Insanity!!!*


What the hell is that??? LOL is that a blizzard WOW server for north America?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

You should see his build log.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What!? Na.. He doesn't need that useless crap to fill a res. Now he could always go with a fillport though if he wanted to be able to fill from outside the case.


You don't need it to fill a res, but he's not using the fillport to fill the res in this instance, he's using it as an inlet. Any air in the top of the res will cause a waterfall effect, and I'm sure you know any loop loses liquid over time.









There's two ways to combat this. Use a Y splitter, with the third point running a tube up to a fillpoint, or using that little bit to inject the liquid below the water level.


----------



## Eufawria

Don't worry guys. I'm no longer using the fill port as an inlet because I don't want to buy any t or y fittings with a fill port drilled into my case etc. I'm just going to be unique with the way I bend my acrylic. Thanks anyways.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I see what you are getting at. I just run my pump on high and shut it off every few until I get the air out. It also depends on how he does his tubing.

Could always have a bubble wonderland like my res was for awhile.









(Not my picture but it looked like this.)


----------



## Eugenius88

How well would you guys recommend FrozenQ currently? I really want to get a 400mm Tri Spiral but I hear of poor customer service/poor quality, but those reports were from a year ago. I know I will get biased answers, but please. You guys are the most experienced with FrozenQ, but please, NO BIASED ANSWERS!


----------



## tw33k

I highly recommend FrozenQ. Recently I needed a replacement cathode and I had no problems getting one shipped out. Just so you know, the reason I needed a replacement was my own fault not because of FrozenQ.


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius88*
> 
> How well would you guys recommend FrozenQ currently? I really want to get a 400mm Tri Spiral but I hear of poor customer service/poor quality, but those reports were from a year ago. I know I will get biased answers, but please. You guys are the most experienced with FrozenQ, but please, NO BIASED ANSWERS!


Since I got a wrong Reservoir shipped I can tell you, they have a super friendly customer service and the service itself is super too. The Quality is prefect and he really tried to make the product perfext in the years. He implemented the Customer feedback and todays products are pretty great








I can highly recommend it, you'll never see another good looking Reservoir like these








I can tell you, you'll regret the day you chose another Reservoir


----------



## Eugenius88

Thanks you two, I'll be buying my tri spiral soon







Also do you guys recommend any triple color combinations from the color list? This part has stumped me for a while as well as:
*A light inverter*, like what it does exactly?
Is the *D5 pump*, sold on their website, able to be mounted on the reservoir or it must be placed separately from the reservoir?


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius88*
> 
> Thanks you two, I'll be buying my tri spiral soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also do you guys recommend any triple color combinations from the color list? This part has stumped me for a while as well as:
> *A light inverter*, like what it does exactly?
> Is the *D5 pump*, sold on their website, able to be mounted on the reservoir or it must be placed separately from the reservoir?


which color you want, more blueish, redish or greenish just tell me, and I'll tell you some combinations








Inverter does DC -> AC
yes, it is and no you have to mount it separately









hope this helps ^^


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius88*
> 
> How well would you guys recommend FrozenQ currently? I really want to get a 400mm Tri Spiral but I hear of poor customer service/poor quality, but those reports were from a year ago. I know I will get biased answers, but please. You guys are the most experienced with FrozenQ, but please, NO BIASED ANSWERS!


They make good products, quality has definitely increased a LOT since the issues they were having a year or so ago. Customer service is NOT fast to reply, but they are super friendly and they take good care of their customers. Like I said though, not the fastest responses, but the quality of customer service more than makes up for that.


----------



## Eugenius88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> which color you want, more blueish, redish or greenish just tell me, and I'll tell you some combinations


I honestly don't know exactly, I'm open to any combinations. However, I'd prefer to get blue, to match my mobo, but red, to just look badass.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> Inverter does DC -> AC


Is there any visual difference in that?


----------



## Eugenius88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> They make good products, quality has definitely increased a LOT since the issues they were having a year or so ago. Customer service is NOT fast to reply, but they are super friendly and they take good care of their customers. Like I said though, not the fastest responses, but the quality of customer service more than makes up for that.


Wow, that's pretty impressive, speed would be nice, but they give the rest, and it all compensates.


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius88*
> 
> I honestly don't know exactly, I'm open to any combinations. However, I'd prefer to get blue, to match my mobo, but red, to just look badass.
> Is there any visual difference in that?


so, mine is a blue combination







I'll recommend UV blue Uv red and violet buuut, if you took the 4x with quad spirals you could take a blue/red/blue/red combo









well no diffrence, but cathods need AC


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius88*
> 
> How well would you guys recommend FrozenQ currently? I really want to get a 400mm Tri Spiral but I hear of poor customer service/poor quality, but those reports were from a year ago. I know I will get biased answers, but please. You guys are the most experienced with FrozenQ, but please, NO BIASED ANSWERS!


Alex does a great job with his company. He is a young man, (in his twenties), who owns and runs his own business. The problems you read about a year ago was due to FrozenQ moving locations to a larger facility. Well they also had to move their gigantic milling equipment and other stuff so a large move like that is quite stressful on a business. At the time I think they only had but a few employees and it was more or less a one man show / jack of all trades style company. They also ran into problems like everyone getting ill, etc. (Pennsylvania had some crazy sickness crap awhile back iirc) I like FrozenQ myself and my custom reservoir isn't too bad either.


Spoiler: FrozenQ Custom Res








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> They make good products, quality has definitely increased a LOT since the issues they were having a year or so ago. Customer service is NOT fast to reply, but they are super friendly and they take good care of their customers. Like I said though, not the fastest responses, but the quality of customer service more than makes up for that.


Yeah. They were under a lot of crap a year ago though. :/ Now I am not sure what Alex is up to as I haven't spoke with him in some time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius88*
> 
> I honestly don't know exactly, I'm open to any combinations. However, I'd prefer to get blue, to match my mobo, but red, to just look badass.
> Is there any visual difference in that?


No. The inverter is required to run the CCFL. (Cold Cathode Fluorescent Light.) Your PSU (Power Supply Unit) takes power from the wall outlet and converts it from AC to DC (if you live in the States) or outputs DC directly if EU, etc. Regardless; CCFL require AC current and a PSU always outputs in DC current so you need the inverter to invert the current from DC to AC. It's something along the lines of thousands of volts. (My multimeter would read that high.







)


----------



## Danisumi

Just to show you, guys. Everything went good with their Supp. And now the real one is on the way









The Problem with my order was, that they actually mischanged mine with another. Someone else just changed the color in the last moment and he had a fluorescent one, just like me. Unfortunately they changed my order. And now I'll get the real one (not the fluorescent one, because I could only chose one color in the website and they were pretty nice and just did a new one for me







)

Here's how the replacement will look like. Alex already sent me a pic









Spoiler: Teaser!







btw: nice and friendly support, even if I live in Switzerland


----------



## kanaks

Its alive!

Tried to take some photos with the side plexi on but seems to be a royal pain due to dust/scratches...

FrozenQ helix is in the dark due to leak issue in the bulb compartment.









With the blue stop on top of the res like a pro, due to leak issue


----------



## Eugenius88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> so, mine is a blue combination
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll recommend UV blue Uv red and violet buuut, if you took the 4x with quad spirals you could take a blue/red/blue/red combo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well no diffrence, but cathods need AC


I'm currently thinking of getting one with White to counter the color of the black 900D, then either UV red or blood red with another color, which ever pairs well with the second color


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eugenius88*
> 
> I'm currently thinking of getting one with White to counter the color of the black 900D, then either UV red or blood red with another color, which ever pairs well with the second color


oki doki







I'll go black/blue only, I guess everyone will tell me, that's too much blue, but I actually like it that way ^^

What color scheme are you going for? If you say blue only because of your MB, that doesn't make much sense. Just go for red and try to hide the blue color of the mobo somehow. Then go for red









I'll recommend you, go for Blood Red/Fluorescent Red(UV Red)/White this way you can use UV and only one color lights up, or you use a white light for every color







But I think this would look great, other thing would be combine it with orange or pink







just a little idea

Oh and if you look on the color chart on the website you can see an example of dark blu/blood red/white, looks awesome too.

This is the example









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




I just copied this picture from the PDF


----------



## Eugenius88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> oki doki
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll go black/blue only, I guess everyone will tell me, that's too much blue, but I actually like it that way ^^
> 
> What color scheme are you going for? If you say blue only because of your MB, that doesn't make much sense. Just go for red and try to hide the blue color of the mobo somehow. Then go for red
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll recommend you, go for Blood Red/Fluorescent Red(UV Red)/White this way you can use UV and only one color lights up, or you use a white light for every color
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I think this would look great, other thing would be combine it with orange or pink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just a little idea
> 
> Oh and if you look on the color chart on the website you can see an example of dark blu/blood red/white, looks awesome too.
> 
> This is the example
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just copied this picture from the PDF


I think I've made my decision







White, Dark Blue, and UV Red, blood red is a little too dark for the build, and the lit up red would look pretty nice, but I'd need to decide what color tubing I'll do to pair with it.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> Its alive!
> 
> Tried to take some photos with the side plexi on but seems to be a royal pain due to dust/scratches...
> 
> FrozenQ helix is in the dark due to leak issue in the bulb compartment.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With the blue stop on top of the res like a pro, due to leak issue


How did you get your sleeving on the 24 pin to fall into place so easily. Mine is being stubborn as a mule.


----------



## kanaks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> How did you get your sleeving on the 24 pin to fall into place so easily. Mine is being stubborn as a mule.


I apply heatshrink (of matching color) on the whole cable. That makes the cable easier to train, and also gives a more "full" look to the sleeve.

Moreover the inner set of cables is a tad smaller in order to have that natural curved look.









Sorry for the off topic


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I knew about making them smaller but the heatshrink trick is nice too. No worries with off topic; I started it.

(People don't really post here much anymore unless there is a problem.) lol


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I knew about making them smaller but the heatshrink trick is nice too. No worries with off topic; I started it.
> 
> (People don't really post here much anymore unless there is a problem.) lol


Well, I'll post as soon as my Res comes to me







and then another post to show it off in my build


----------



## NinjaSushi2

lol Just let me know if anyone needs added to this list. I know it's been a few months since I've asked and a few people have slipped by. (I've been overloaded with problems at home.)









But I have the ability to update the list now no problem.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> lol Just let me know if anyone needs added to this list. I know it's been a few months since I've asked and a few people have slipped by. (I've been overloaded with problems at home.)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I have the ability to update the list now no problem.


I have a frozenQ Warp Drive, and a Frozen Q Cold Fusion waterblock, so there's that.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

How is that block?


----------



## seross69

You could add me with my Custom FrozenQ Reservoir!!




And I have 1 more exactly like this coming to go in the other side of the case!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> How is that block?


Haven't installed it yet. I have an Apogee Drive II, so until I can get a DDC pump top I can't swap it out. I have other things to do on my DIY chassis before I can worry about swapping out the pump/cpu block.

I'll throw up a thread on how it compares when I get to it. It's a very VERY sturdy block though. First time I picked it up it felt like a brick though, so that's nice. Other CPU blocks I've seen, even from big brands, always seem very... weak... A CPU waterblock doesn't /need/ to be sturdy yeah, but it's definitely nice.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You could add me with my Custom FrozenQ Reservoir!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I have 1 more exactly like this coming to go in the other side of the case!!


Will do. So 5 FQ bay res?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Haven't installed it yet. I have an Apogee Drive II, so until I can get a DDC pump top I can't swap it out. I have other things to do on my DIY chassis before I can worry about swapping out the pump/cpu block.
> 
> I'll throw up a thread on how it compares when I get to it. It's a very VERY sturdy block though. First time I picked it up it felt like a brick though, so that's nice. Other CPU blocks I've seen, even from big brands, always seem very... weak... A CPU waterblock doesn't /need/ to be sturdy yeah, but it's definitely nice.


I have the DT5Noz (Mayhem Edition). That Detroit block is like a tank. Nothing but <3. Not sure how the Mayhem one is different besides it says Mayhems.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Will do. So 5 FQ bay res?
> I have the DT5Noz (Mayhem Edition). That Detroit block is like a tank. Nothing but <3. Not sure how the Mayhem one is different besides it says Mayhems.


I'm fairly certain DT Waterblocks went out of business. Mayhems probably just bought the milling instructions/rights or whatever and started producing it.


----------



## kanaks

mates is there an eshop in EU that ships spare cathodes for FrozenQ reservoires? It seems that I can't found anything on the market


----------



## feniks

ask FrozenQ if they can ship you one. other than that, it's just a 6'' UV cold cathode with a short narrow velcro strap around it to hold in place at bottom, same one as many manufacturers make like Logisys.


----------



## Eufawria

Are FrozenQ caps are made of acetal? If yes then good cause I just changed my green helix to white and don't know how its meant to sit and look from both the instructions and the video but there are no leaks at the current moment.

If no, well I am indeed doomed although I'm leak testing and is not in a loop


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> Are FrozenQ caps are made of acetal? If yes then good cause I just changed my green helix to white and don't know how its meant to sit and look from both the instructions and the video but there are no leaks at the current moment.
> 
> If no, well I am indeed doomed although I'm leak testing and is not in a loop


I'm fairly certain they come in both acetal and acrylic depending on the res, though the acrylic wouldn't be black. Worst case scenario you can email frozenq and I'm sure you could arrange to have one sent to you.


----------



## Eufawria

I mean, everything is fine is that I was wondering of the caps were acetal or aluminium which was used on the old design as I want to avoid having the issues of mix metals and all that problems when I start putting in my blocks.

I hope this makes sense but with the bottom cap which mine has two side ports and one on the bottom. Looking through the side ports, the bottom of the helix which is a plate, sits above the side ports which then water will flow into the caps then out of the ports. Now I don't know if that is how it is meant to be or the helix sits closer down of the caps and the water flows through the helix as I have never paid close attention to it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eufawria*
> 
> I mean, everything is fine is that I was wondering of the caps were acetal or aluminium which was used on the old design as I want to avoid having the issues of mix metals and all that problems when I start putting in my blocks.
> 
> I hope this makes sense but with the bottom cap which mine has two side ports and one on the bottom. Looking through the side ports, the bottom of the helix which is a plate, sits above the side ports which then water will flow into the caps then out of the ports. Now I don't know if that is how it is meant to be or the helix sits closer down of the caps and the water flows through the helix as I have never paid close attention to it.


the aluminum does not come in contact with the liquid in any form they are just caps that slide over for looks FQ has never made a res with aluminum that contacts the water since i have watched him


----------



## feniks

there should be opening in the bottom of helix base which you MUST lineup with bottom port if that one is in use, otherwise you will restrict the water flow greatly.
worth mentioning that once that done then only one of side ports will actually line up unrestricted, never two (with bottom lined up) at same time, at least that's the way it is on mine.


----------



## tw33k

Mine...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Mine...


Dear god.. What did you do, piss off the sun? Did you forget to give a sacrifice to the fire gods?

In all seriousness, that's pretty wicked looking. It has a very ominous appearance.


----------



## knanda

Any one with Quad Spiral reservoir able to get the water fall effect mentioned in the website?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

All boys and gals. I am on a hunting trip at the moment but everyone that needs/wants to be added to the list, post what reservoir you have and let me know and I shall add you.









Name --- Type --- Size in mL/mm.


----------



## Eufawria

Eufawria - FrozenQ Liquid Fusion w/ white helix - 250mm


----------



## Tnog

Got a question for you gents and anyone can chime in. Is it possible to converting the old threaded style Liquid Fusion V res to new compression style? I'm not sure if anyone has done this but I have two of the older style design Liquid Fusion V res's, the ones with the threaded cylinder and cathode shell, and I was browsing the FrozenQ PC Mods store for some new end caps because I wanted one with a side port. I noticed that there are options to choose threaded cathode shell or compression and it got me thinking. Would it be possible to order new compression style caps and a compression style cathode shell to use with my older helix core and cathode light?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I would say no by the sounds of it but I haven't owned one of the cylindrical reservoirs yet. Only a bay and a custom.









So I need to add people to the club list. Let me do that right now if Google Docs likes me.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

tw33k - added.
ZytheEKS - added.
Eufawria - added.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> You could add me with my Custom FrozenQ Reservoir!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I have 1 more exactly like this coming to go in the other side of the case!!


So how would you describe the reservoir so I know what to put down before I add you.

Add a few other people but please post pictures of the res.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> tw33k - added.
> ZytheEKS - added.
> Eufawria - added.
> So how would you describe the reservoir so I know what to put down before I add you.
> 
> Add a few other people but please post pictures of the res.


I guess call it a 8 bay custom reservoir..


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'm fairly certain DT Waterblocks went out of business. Mayhems probably just bought the milling instructions/rights or whatever and started producing it.


He is not producing them right now, he may start again in the future, I'm pretty sure he hasn't sold off anything. He offered custom engraving for the tops for awhile, up until he stopped production.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Good to know.

Edit: Updated.


----------



## Eufawria

From green to white. Removed UN mount to 120mm FrozQ mountings.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Do you need to be added again then?


----------



## Eufawria

Nop, just showing off


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Dear god.. What did you do, piss off the sun? Did you forget to give a sacrifice to the fire gods?
> 
> In all seriousness, that's pretty wicked looking. It has a very ominous appearance.


lol..it's much more subtle to look at than the pic would suggest. Gives a nice red glow across the board


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> lol..it's much more subtle to look at than the pic would suggest. Gives a nice red glow across the board


----------



## Yondersoup

Does anyone know if its possible to get a 250 tube with a frosted acrylic tube to light up with LEDs instead of the clear tube with the UV cathode? Other then modding it yourself which if that has to be done how hard would that be?


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yondersoup*
> 
> Does anyone know if its possible to get a 250 tube with a frosted acrylic tube to light up with LEDs instead of the clear tube with the UV cathode? Other then modding it yourself which if that has to be done how hard would that be?


XSPC Photon reservoir has exactly that.


----------



## Yondersoup

Thats what gave me the idea, i want to get it with the helix though. If its too much trouble i will end up with that


----------



## DaaQ

You could try modding one to suit your needs, http://www.overclock.net/t/584302/ocn-water-cooling-club-and-picture-gallery/36660#post_19199614
With the availability of e22 and sli multi links, no need for the drilling out part.


----------



## Yondersoup

That would work out very nicely, assuming they still come in pieces like this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *feniks*


I could just sand down the middle insert a little for the frosted effect or replace it all together and since it's seal on both ends i can get an LED on each end. Do you happen to know if the holes for the middle tube are threaded or is it a compression fit, id have to tap it to get the fitting on if its compression.


----------



## Mega Man

orrrrr... you could just buy one @ fq.com and ask them to do it, probably at little or no charge ..... just saying contact steve


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> orrrrr... you could just buy one @ fq.com and ask them to do it, probably at little or no charge ..... just saying contact steve


One bad thing is that Steve is no longer with FrozenQ.. He left at the end of August


----------



## Mega Man

NUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> orrrrr... you could just buy one @ fq.com and ask them to do it, probably at little or no charge ..... just saying contact steve


Indeed. Alex and can do spiffy stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> NUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU


doubly lol


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yondersoup*
> 
> Does anyone know if its possible to get a 250 tube with a frosted acrylic tube to light up with LEDs instead of the clear tube with the UV cathode? Other then modding it yourself which if that has to be done how hard would that be?


Always the warp core idea.


----------



## Liquid-Helix

Have my reservoirs are here
Have some nice pics on my site
Liquid-helix.com
6 - 400mm


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liquid-Helix*
> 
> Have my reservoirs are here
> Have some nice pics on my site
> Liquid-helix.com
> 6 - 400mm


I too have a thing for biohazard symbols.


----------



## PeterNguyen255

Hi guys, I installed my Frozen Q helix dual bay res but the UV cathode doesn't make the helix part lights up that much. It doesn't glow at all, and it looks nothing like the advertised picture. My helix is white and anyone knows whats wrong?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterNguyen255*
> 
> Hi guys, I installed my Frozen Q helix dual bay res but the UV cathode doesn't make the helix part lights up that much. It doesn't glow at all, and it looks nothing like the advertised picture. My helix is white and anyone knows whats wrong?


The dual helix will ONLY glow if the cathode you have is a BLB Cathode (Black Light Bulb Cathode). Otherwise you're essentially just putting a light in there. The acrylic helix are filled with a colored liquid, if you ordered any of the "florescent" helix models then they are filled with a UV reactive liquid. If you're expecting it to glow, you'll need a UV cathode, and a florescent liquid in the helix.

If you want it to glow you should have ordered a UV cathode instead of a white cathode. I'm assuming you already have florescent coolant in the acrylic tubes since you were expecting it to glow. If that is the case, then just put a UV cathode in where your white cathode is.

E-mail frozenQ and I'm sure they can get you squared away with all the proper doohickeys and butternuckles you need to get it working how you want.


----------



## PeterNguyen255

I do have a UV cathode inside, that's why I'm wondering why it doesn't glows. I purchased this from FrozenCPU.com. Should I change my bulb to see if that makes a different?. Is it possible for the liquid to leak out?


----------



## Joyride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterNguyen255*
> 
> I do have a UV cathode inside, that's why I'm wondering why it doesn't glows. I purchased this from FrozenCPU.com. Should I change my bulb to see if that makes a different?. Is it possible for the liquid to leak out?


Can you post a picture?


----------



## PeterNguyen255

The helix part is white but it doesn't glow and the cathode seems very weak.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterNguyen255*
> 
> 
> The helix part is white but it doesn't glow and the cathode seems very weak.


Is the white UV reactive, and how many plugs are connected to the port the cathode inverter is connected too? I've noticed my cathodes are quite weak when the inverter is connected to my PSU with several other things on the same molex line. Try connecting the inverter to a dedicated 4pin molex port on the PSU>


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterNguyen255*
> 
> 
> The helix part is white but it doesn't glow and the cathode seems very weak.


There isn't a UV reactive white. at least as far as I know. then again, If you don't have anything UV reactive, you can't see the impact from the uv cathod.
If you would have anything UV reactive you would see the effect, but since nothing's UV reactive you only think the cathod is very weak, but it's actually not. At least it was the same case for me.

hope this helps

edit: yup, checked it. White is not UV reactive


----------



## Joyride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterNguyen255*
> 
> 
> The helix part is white but it doesn't glow and the cathode seems very weak.


I have a similar dual bay helix in red and I have a similar problem. I think the cathode inside of the reservoir is just weak and you don't get much of a UV effect. I have mine filled with dark green UV reactive fluid but again, the cathode is pretty weak. An idea would be to change the inverter, that may make a difference.

Also, you might want to compare how it looks in the dark. In daylight, any UV effect is pretty much sucked away.


----------



## PeterNguyen255

yeah, the inverter is connected directly to the psu cable. I'm not sure about the uv reactive fluid in the white helix tho. I might just change the cathode into a white cathod fora bright effect. False advertisement on the frozencpu website. They said this was uv reactive and the pictures on the site glows brightly too so i thought.


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterNguyen255*
> 
> yeah, the inverter is connected directly to the psu cable. I'm not sure about the uv reactive fluid in the white helix tho. I might just change the cathode into a white cathod fora bright effect. False advertisement on the frozencpu website. They said this was uv reactive and the pictures on the site glows brightly too so i thought.


wait wait wait wait, false advertisement? Where exactly does it glow and where exactly did you read uv reactive? I don't like it, when some guys blame some companys for not doing anything wrong. Maybe it was your fault, maybe you did read it wrong. But pls correct me if I'm wrong, show me where you read it.

Edit: Ooops I'm sry. I did read something wrong too now xD I read Frozenq instead of FrozenCPU. Maybe they wrote something wrong under product details


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> wait wait wait wait, false advertisement? Where exactly does it glow and where exactly did you read uv reactive? I don't like it, when some guys blame some companys for not doing anything wrong. Maybe it was your fault, maybe you did read it wrong. But pls correct me if I'm wrong, show me where you read it.
> 
> Edit: Ooops I'm sry. I did read something wrong too now xD I read Frozenq instead of FrozenCPU. Maybe they wrote something wrong under product details


nope same thing
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17790/ex-res-471/FrozenQ_Liquid_Fusion_Dual_Bay_Reservoir_-_Gloss_White_Helix.html

says it lights up the helix, not that the helix glows. however it does say that the helix is florescent. which just means it is very bright....


----------



## MRDcanadian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knanda*
> 
> I installed X4 Quad Helix reservoir with bottom hole as Inlet. I don't see any waterfall effect guys. Can someone tell me if I am doing something wrong?


didn't see an answer on your question,i have the same issue here. using a D5 strong pump no undervolting so not sure neither. i was able to do the waterfall effect on my previous setup using the rez as a pass through. "waterfall effect port" on top as inlet and bottom port for out. considerately dims the uv effect if you have colored coolant (mayhem pastel orange and it's none transparent) fyi


----------



## VSG

Quick question- how long does Alex typically take to ship a reservoir? I ordered one last Monday and the website status is still "processing". I haven't heard back from him when contacted via email either.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeterNguyen255*
> 
> yeah, the inverter is connected directly to the psu cable. I'm not sure about the uv reactive fluid in the white helix tho. I might just change the cathode into a white cathod fora bright effect. False advertisement on the frozencpu website. They said this was uv reactive and the pictures on the site glows brightly too so i thought.


Don't blame "false advertising" as there's obviously something wrong with your cathode. From the picture you linked it's only glowing in the center, with a very weak glow. That's not what it's supposed to do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quick question- how long does Alex typically take to ship a reservoir? I ordered one last Monday and the website status is still "processing". I haven't heard back from him when contacted via email either.


As far as I know if you ordered directly from FrozenQ then they make the reservoir from scratch. Expect about a month of time for them to make it, then about a week for procesing/transit time.


----------



## VSG

A month?? Darn I wish I knew that before.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A month?? Darn I wish I knew that before.


Well, that's what it took to build my waterblock, but I'm pretty sure most of the reservoir parts they have are probably prefabbed and just need to be assembled, but this is just speculation on my part. It used to say right on their front page to allow a couple weeks to build the part, but I'm unsure if it still does.

[email protected]

You can always shoot them an email to ask about how long it may take.


----------



## VSG

I emailed them twice on different email addresses but so far nothing. I am willing to wait as long as I at least get a response informing me what's going on.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Quick question- how long does Alex typically take to ship a reservoir? I ordered one last Monday and the website status is still "processing". I haven't heard back from him when contacted via email either.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A month?? Darn I wish I knew that before.


also his web site says
Due to an unforseen hospitalization, I will be out of the shop until Monday. All is well though! I sincerely apologize to anybody whose order was supposed to ship by the end of the week. I will do my best to make sure they get out Monday or Tuesday.


----------



## VSG

Oh no, I hope he is ok. I didn't see that, thanks for pointing it out to me.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh no, I hope he is ok. I didn't see that, thanks for pointing it out to me.


To answer your question, you can expect a response in usually around a week on normal occasions. FrozenQ isn't the fastest to respond but they do take good care of their customers, and will respond with a helpful email as opposed to the normal corporate crap that runs you in circles.


----------



## internetheroxD

Hey!
Read alot of this thread, and FrozenQ makes beautiful stuff!

Some questions:
Can you use the small reservoir people have in the front (in the 5.25 bays) with only water in it, but not plugged in, just for looks and then use another 250mm reservoir thats plugged in?
Read some guy had his reservoir crack twice, is this still happening?

Thank you!


----------



## Joyride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *internetheroxD*
> 
> Hey!
> Read alot of this thread, and FrozenQ makes beautiful stuff!
> 
> Some questions:
> Can you use the small reservoir people have in the front (in the 5.25 bays) with only water in it, but not plugged in, just for looks and then use another 250mm reservoir thats plugged in?
> Read some guy had his reservoir crack twice, is this still happening?
> 
> Thank you!


You could put plugs in the reservoir and have it there for looks. I have had a dual bay helix reservoir for the past month and no cracks, at least so far. It was a paint to fit into my Silverstone FT02, not a perfect fit and the screw holes didn't line up.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *internetheroxD*
> 
> Hey!
> Read alot of this thread, and FrozenQ makes beautiful stuff!
> 
> Some questions:
> Can you use the small reservoir people have in the front (in the 5.25 bays) with only water in it, but not plugged in, just for looks and then use another 250mm reservoir thats plugged in?
> Read some guy had his reservoir crack twice, is this still happening?
> 
> Thank you!


Yeah, you can just use G1/4" plugs, available at pretty much any and all PC water cooling places. It's kinda odd that you'd spend $180 on a reservoir, and not put it in a loop, but whatever floats your boat.

FrozenQ used to outsource their parts to a local machining shop. They closed, so they moved to a bigger facility and started making their own parts. When they first started making their own parts they had issues with cracking, leaking, machining, etc.

That was quite some time ago, they have since refined their designs and cracking, leaking threads, over fastened acrylic tubes, etc.

All issues with cracking and leaks have *LONG* since been dealt with.


----------



## internetheroxD

Thought it was 99 bucks?
Anyway, the smaller ones, are they just as good as the larger ones?
Seems to be a pain to pul the water from the front of the chassi to the back, would be hard to make it look good!


----------



## VSG

So my reservoir was ready for shipping 2 weeks ago, got a shipping notification with tracking number last week and still USPS kept saying they had not received the item yet. Turns out a laser fire damaged most of the Frozenq shop delaying all shipments and orders till the 11th at the least. The poor guy is having a bad series of incidents.


----------



## Mega Man

even more sad.... he is only mid 20s .... alot for a young guy to deal with. !


----------



## seross69

yes I agree with this but I placed an order in July and have not received my 2nd reservoir and I am starting to get mad!!


----------



## VSG

What? Why have you waited this long? I would have called up my credit card company after 45 days.


----------



## Aemonn

I placed an order almost two weeks ago now that was showing "in stock". I understand he's run into complications and that's completely understandable. I also understand he's probably too busy to answer e-mails currently... but I have an issue with two things.

a) He has had the same message on the front page stating being out until Monday that is over two weeks old. How hard would it be to quickly update the front page letting everyone know orders are held indefinitely until a situation is resolved with manufacturing? A little communication goes a long way.

b) As soon as I placed my order, I was charged. He should change this practice to charging customers when an item has shipped. Right now he has collected my money and I have no idea when I will receive my product.

I hope he gets everything sorted out.. i'm not angry about the circumstances and don't even mind the wait. However paying for something I have no idea when or if I will even receive (does this damage put him out of business?????) and lack of communication sucks.


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes I agree with this but I placed an order in July and have not received my 2nd reservoir and I am starting to get mad!!


Hey, PM me with the details of your order and ill track it down and see whats going on.


----------



## Steveo2400

An update on Alex and the shop. He is feeling much better, so that's a good thing.

The laser caught on fire this monday. It is destroyed, and the smoke and water damage has shut down the shop. Nothing can really be done for the next couple weeks. A new laser is at least six weeks out. Orders will still be fulfilled, but only after the shop is back up and running.

If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to PM me, email me at [email protected], or call me at 484 663 1393.


----------



## VSG

Steve, thanks for the info. I am glad to hear Alex is ok.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> An update on Alex and the shop. He is feeling much better, so that's a good thing.
> 
> The laser caught on fire this monday. It is destroyed, and the smoke and water damage has shut down the shop. Nothing can really be done for the next couple weeks. A new laser is at least six weeks out. Orders will still be fulfilled, but only after the shop is back up and running.
> 
> If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to PM me, email me at [email protected], or call me at 484 663 1393.


Hu, I had heard you were no longer working for FrozenQ. Good to hear you're still on the crew, especially now that it sounds like things have hit the fan.


----------



## Mystriss

Sorry to read about all the chaos in das shop. I hope ya'll get things squared away.

In any event, I would like to join the club! I've just received my 400mm today and I'm quite pleased! (I'd ordered it from PPCS maybe a week ago so I must have snagged one that was in stock.) Anyway, here she is:



I'll be installing her front and center into a SilverStone Lascala SST-LC13-E HTPC chassis as soon as my aluminum panels and a few other tid-bits arrive. (Super tight fit with only 15/16 of an inch for fittings, but I have a Dremel if all else fails







)


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Sorry to read about all the chaos in das shop. I hope ya'll get things squared away.
> 
> In any event, I would like to join the club! I've just received my 400mm today and I'm quite pleased! (I'd ordered it from PPCS maybe a week ago so I must have snagged one that was in stock.) Anyway, here she is:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be installing her front and center into a SilverStone Lascala SST-LC13-E HTPC chassis as soon as my aluminum panels and a few other tid-bits arrive. (Super tight fit with only 15/16 of an inch for fittings, but I have a Dremel if all else fails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


'Sounds like low profile 90degree fittings are going to be your best friend there.









Be sure to throw up a build log.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Sorry to read about all the chaos in das shop. I hope ya'll get things squared away.
> 
> In any event, I would like to join the club! I've just received my 400mm today and I'm quite pleased! (I'd ordered it from PPCS maybe a week ago so I must have snagged one that was in stock.) Anyway, here she is:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be installing her front and center into a SilverStone Lascala SST-LC13-E HTPC chassis as soon as my aluminum panels and a few other tid-bits arrive. (Super tight fit with only 15/16 of an inch for fittings, but I have a Dremel if all else fails
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


this is what i will be having fq do custom for my wifes pc !!!!! ( but i will be doing some other things to it ! )


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> 'Sounds like low profile 90degree fittings are going to be your best friend there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to throw up a build log.


Yea Bitspower 90s run 18mm so I've got roughly 10mm clearance if I'm good on my measurement conversions; if I'm off a hair I can gain another 5mm by cutting a small hole in the side of my case for the res' stop plug, worse come to worse I'll port the tubes out the side of the case and monsoon light port + rigid tube them down the length of the chassis with right and left channel sound activated cathodes...

I'm working on a build log, just a bit slow cause I only have time to mod on the weekends and I've not gotten all my bits n pieces yet *sighs and burns some midnight oil*

*EDIT:* Build log is posted - "Consummation" (Dual HTPC, water cooled, audiophile 'stereo')


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Hey, PM me with the details of your order and ill track it down and see whats going on.


I did pm details of my order and I do understand problems but I paid for my order on aug 8 and would like at least communication of what is going on!! I do not expect to be treated any better than another customer I just want to know what is going on and to get my 2nd reservoir.. I had them engraved with Frozen q on them so I paid for custom work yes but also gave you a little more. I was told it would ship before and nothing happen and no communication. so I am getting more and more unhappy!!!


----------



## darwing

Guys it's a small business run by 1 guy who does everything himself, if he's sick or out, then frozenQ doesn't run and these beautiful reservoirs are no more!!!!!

Just be great full that these exist and he is still making them and he is allowed to get sick as we'll take a vacation if need be.

Yes I understand peoples frustrations and yes you should voice your opinions, maybe he should hire some help for client care as he does everything directly with the clients.

My experience with his was absolutely amazing quick friendly professional and personal, I only hope everything is ok with Alex and he can get back on track.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Guys it's a small business run by 1 guy who does everything himself, if he's sick or out, then frozenQ doesn't run and these beautiful reservoirs are no more!!!!!
> 
> Just be great full that these exist and he is still making them and he is allowed to get sick as we'll take a vacation if need be.
> 
> Yes I understand peoples frustrations and yes you should voice your opinions, maybe he should hire some help for client care as he does everything directly with the clients.
> 
> My experience with his was absolutely amazing quick friendly professional and personal, I only hope everything is ok with Alex and he can get back on track.


Well said random OCN user, well said.

It's a small business guys, relax. If small businesses were held to the same standards as multinational manufacturers like Swiftech, Lamptron, etc. small businesses would not exist. The guy got hospitalized and a laser caught his shop on fire. Give him a break, I think he has enough on his mind.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Well said random OCN user, well said.
> 
> It's a small business guys, relax. If small businesses were held to the same standards as multinational manufacturers like Swiftech, Lamptron, etc. small businesses would not exist. The guy got hospitalized and a laser caught his shop on fire. Give him a break, I think he has enough on his mind.


Damn I didn't know all that! Wow I hope he can recover and bounce back!

Oh and p.s. I'm not random lol been here since 07! And no +1 rep? Sheesh compliments don't go far this day in age







j/k

Hope Alex can bouncy back I would hate for these to go extinct!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Damn I didn't know all that! Wow I hope he can recover and bounce back!
> 
> Oh and p.s. I'm not random lol been here since 07! And no +1 rep? Sheesh compliments don't go far this day in age
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> j/k
> 
> Hope Alex can bouncy back I would hate for these to go extinct!!


If I don't know you, you're random to me









But yeah, one of his lasers caught fire, and torched itself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> An update on Alex and the shop. He is feeling much better, so that's a good thing.
> 
> The laser caught on fire this monday. It is destroyed, and the smoke and water damage has shut down the shop. Nothing can really be done for the next couple weeks. A new laser is at least six weeks out. Orders will still be fulfilled, but only after the shop is back up and running.
> 
> If you have any questions or concerns, feel free to PM me, email me at [email protected], or call me at 484 663 1393.


That was about a week ago.

Yeah, I agree though, I hope frozenQ continues for a LONG while. First we lose Danger Den, then I heard DT waterblocks is out, so much loss in the WC world.


----------



## Beast Fat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RushMore1205*
> 
> yes, i have been wanting to see this club for a while
> 
> please count me in
> 
> Red Helix 250mm
> Green Helix 250mm
> Green Dual Bay Res


If you don't mind me asking, where did you get your acrylic/Plexiglas case/tower?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hi guys.







Sorry I don't post anymore. Life has been busy and I smashed up my left hand -- I am left handed -- and so typing is hard.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I don't post anymore. Life has been busy and I smashed up my left hand -- I am left handed -- and so typing is hard.


Ouch, sorry to hear that.


----------



## Mega Man

we have the tools, we can fix it, make it better.....


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> we have the tools, we can fix it, make it better.....


hahaha

It might be broken in a few places. Make it so I have cyborg strength.


----------



## Mega Man

get well soon


----------



## solar0987

Anyone else notice he has alot of fires? Isn't this fire #3?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Anyone else notice he has alot of fires? Isn't this fire #3?


whattttttttttttttttt?? your kidding right???


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> Anyone else notice he has alot of fires? Isn't this fire #3?


I've never known Alex to have a fire in his shop until that past post.


----------



## Steveo2400

Nope, fire number one. Thankfully.


----------



## VSG

Steve, have you been able to contact Alex? How's the shop looking now?

Edit: Did you guys have insurance on the equipment?


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> whattttttttttttttttt?? your kidding right???


Actually start at the begging of the club this would be fire #2
Also emailed you stevo2400.


----------



## Steveo2400

The shop is still pretty disorganized. FIre and Water just kinda put everything in boxes so Q has to spend most of his time going through them and putting things back where they belong.

Yes, we have insurance.

And i meant like a real fire. The first one didnt even set off the sprinklers. lol.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

That sucks. I might email Alex and see how he is.


----------



## Steveo2400

Here is an update that was just posted to our site.

_"Unfortunately, I understand many of you are waiting on custom orders, and a lot of which are unhappy. We are working as hard as we can to get everyone a shipping date for their orders. We've been under a tremendous amount of pressure trying to get everything straightened out and some emails may have not been answered. Unfortunately there has been very little we can do, as our laser was destroyed and our shop closed for renovations for the past 3 weeks. We are working to get a new laser, but proceedings with insurance do take time. We are working with another company who has a laser cutter, but shipping and communication back and forth also takes time. We can issue refunds if it's absolutely necessary, but we ask that you consider letting us work it out first.

The N1 MCase reservoirs are ready, and getting faceplates right now, they will be ready to ship in the next few days.

Any Liquid Fusion reservoirs on order will ship by the end of next week, 12/6.

Any Fusion Dual Bay reservoirs on order will ship by mid next week, 12/4.

Any replacement part orders, we will ship over the next few days. If it involves clips or items that need laser cut, we are waiting on those to come in from our temporary cutter."_

As always, im free to answer questions.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Here is an update that was just posted to our site.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _"Unfortunately, I understand many of you are waiting on custom orders, and a lot of which are unhappy. We are working as hard as we can to get everyone a shipping date for their orders. We've been under a tremendous amount of pressure trying to get everything straightened out and some emails may have not been answered. Unfortunately there has been very little we can do, as our laser was destroyed and our shop closed for renovations for the past 3 weeks. We are working to get a new laser, but proceedings with insurance do take time. We are working with another company who has a laser cutter, but shipping and communication back and forth also takes time. We can issue refunds if it's absolutely necessary, but we ask that you consider letting us work it out first.
> 
> The N1 MCase reservoirs are ready, and getting faceplates right now, they will be ready to ship in the next few days.
> 
> Any Liquid Fusion reservoirs on order will ship by the end of next week, 12/6.
> 
> Any Fusion Dual Bay reservoirs on order will ship by mid next week, 12/4.
> 
> Any replacement part orders, we will ship over the next few days. If it involves clips or items that need laser cut, we are waiting on those to come in from our temporary cutter."_
> 
> As always, im free to answer questions.


Thanks for this Steve!!! Don't want to cancel this is for sure as I can I have to have my second reservoir. Good luck with everything and hope you are back 100% by the first of the year and hope you dont have to get lawyer involved to deal with the insurance company!!!


----------



## darwing

Finally done my Antec 902 Mod build, dual Rad in the front with Drain valve and 250ML frozen Q res inside the case with 7970 and Raystorm GPU cooling and lighting











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

















wish I had a better camera but It looks great, everything went to plan and is solid as a rock! lots of measuring and planning with dremel and fabrications


----------



## Barefooter

Nice build, the res looks great!


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Nice build, the res looks great!


Thanks I'm trying to sell this so I can build my ultimate build


----------



## NinjaSushi2

How is Alex doing? I haven't spoken to him in awhile but my custom res looks amazing as always. Fanboy for life.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> How is Alex doing? I haven't spoken to him in awhile but my custom res looks amazing as always. Fanboy for life.


Has anyone other than Steve spoken to him??? in awhile? Not complaining just know how busy he has to be....


----------



## Mega Man

nope ._. still waiting on my res hope he is ok though, i dont mind waiting as his work is quality


----------



## wermad

Wonna retire my old Koolance res and I'm thinking of getting a quad spiral. Any one have an eta from FrozenQ? i know they had some issues w/ their factory but I want to get an idea of an eta.

Thinking of flourescent green, or a mix of white, black, fl. green in the spirals







.


----------



## VSG

Check if the particular color is available from retailers like PPC and FrozenCPU first. The shop is still not up and my reservoir is still nowhere to be seen.


----------



## wermad

I thought about that but both our out of the green. I also wanna get some additional ports done to the stock top cap. I pm'd Alex and I hope to get a reply soon. Sucks ya'll are waiting and hope your orders go out soon. Might as well be patient for now since I'm pending some money to come back.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I thought about that but both our out of the green. I also wanna get some additional ports done to the stock top cap. I pm'd Alex and I hope to get a reply soon. Sucks ya'll are waiting and hope your orders go out soon. Might as well be patient for now since I'm pending some money to come back.


Your best bet would be to wait till after the holidays. The shop is still being put back together, and I have a feeling for about a month or two after it's back up they will be scrambling to get all their orders on hold finished.

Mind you it's always an option to get a clear helix, and fill it with your own coolant.


----------



## VSG

I just heard back from Alex- my order will ship today


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I just heard back from Alex- my order will ship today












I hope to hear from him soon.


----------



## Mega Man

i hate you !!!! hope mine ships soon been waiting a while~ i know it will be worth it


----------



## seross69

I bet I have been waiting longer than anyone!!! But mine is custom so it will take longer... Hoping it ships this week...


----------



## ShortyDoo

bet you havent lol. Ive been waiting to get my res in my build since it seems like forever. Custom res ordered on July 29th, res received August 27th but it leaked more than it held water. Shipped it back on Aug 30th. Been waiting for it since..... It was exactly what I wanted minus the leaking so I hope they find whatever forgotten corner its in. My build is rather incomplete without it as it was the centerpiece.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortyDoo*
> 
> bet you havent lol. Ive been waiting to get my res in my build since it seems like forever. Custom res ordered on July 29th, res received August 27th but it leaked more than it held water. Shipped it back on Aug 30th. Been waiting for it since..... It was exactly what I wanted minus the leaking so I hope they find whatever forgotten corner its in. My build is rather incomplete without it as it was the centerpiece.


Well that is about the same time frame for me but I did learn tonight that it will be shipping out Friday!!!


----------



## wermad

I'm just looking to get some side ports done to the top cap of a quad res. I've had Alex take this request on the 250mm version (small extra fee paid) and they already do this for the bottom cap. If I do end up getting the res, I hope it doesn't take long.


----------



## seross69

Anyone heard if they were able to ship any products today like I was told?


----------



## VSG

Well my reservoir which was supposed to have shipped Tuesday isn't here so I wouldn't take any of their word from now on. Last time I go with these guys, I have learned from my mistake.


----------



## ShortyDoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well my reservoir which was supposed to have shipped Tuesday isn't here so I wouldn't take any of their word from now on. Last time I go with these guys, I have learned from my mistake.


Yours might be sitting next to mine the land of the forgotten. Beware the land of the forgotten. kinda funny buuuuut not really since a decent amount of money was paid with not much to show for it


----------



## Mystriss

Funny thing about smaller specialized businesses, when you know what hits the fan it takes a while to get back on their feet, JS. I'm honestly surprised he's even getting stuff out at all right now, it hasn't even been the six weeks he thought it was going to be for the new laser.

Honestly, if it is really that big a deal to you, then politely ask for a refund and buy something else. Otherwise lets just relax and have a little understanding that accidents happen - 99.9% sure that he's doing everything he possibly can to try to get caught up and make his customers happy.

Then after all this is over we can go back to drooling over everyone's awesome looking Qs


----------



## wermad

I'm still hoping Alex can get back to me on getting just a bit extra done to a res.


----------



## darwing

What really is is amazing but think if Alex stopped making these you know how rare these would be!!??


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> What really is is amazing but think if Alex stopped making these you know how rare these would be!!??


They no longer make the quad helix reservoirs????


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> They no longer make the quad helix reservoirs????


I never liked them anyways LOL I like the dual with the space in between the helix to get the real glow effect


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> What really is is amazing but think if Alex stopped making these you know how rare these would be!!??
> 
> 
> 
> They no longer make the quad helix reservoirs????
Click to expand...

i highly doubt this to be true. they are relatively new


----------



## VSG

So I finally received my reservoir, was so excited and then opened the box to realize one of the helices was broken off one end. Also, the switch that controls the cathode was broken. Someone kill me now


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I finally received my reservoir, was so excited and then opened the box to realize one of the helices was broken off one end. Also, the switch that controls the cathode was broken. Someone kill me now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


See if you can screw back the switch. That's just a generic switch that comes w/ the inverter. i don't use the slot bracket tbh.

As far as the helix, see if you can find some adhesive (epoxy) to glue it back in place.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So I finally received my reservoir, was so excited and then opened the box to realize one of the helices was broken off one end. Also, the switch that controls the cathode was broken. Someone kill me now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Switch looks easy to fix just drill it out and put a new screw in it. The helix is a whole different story. I am sure they will make it right..

Oh a More Positive note I got Tracking number for My 2nd custom Reservoir.





















FrozenQ the best!!!


----------



## VSG

These reservoirs used to be shipped in parts but they leaked pretty badly so Alex resorted to put the whole thing together using some silicone and glue (not sure, I thought I read this somewhere). This makes it nearly impossible to open up the reservoir- I tried applying some force but nothing.

As far as the switch goes, I will probably use some epoxy as the screw hole area is cracked. I guess the screw (which is missing) was loose and it opened up the hole and loosened itself out.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> These reservoirs used to be shipped in parts but they leaked pretty badly so Alex resorted to put the whole thing together using some silicone and glue (not sure, I thought I read this somewhere). This makes it nearly impossible to open up the reservoir- I tried applying some force but nothing.
> 
> As far as the switch goes, I will probably use some epoxy as the screw hole area is cracked. I guess the screw (which is missing) was loose and it opened up the hole and loosened itself out.


Man I am sorry for your misfortune but I am sure Alex will make it right.. they bad thing is how far behind they are due to the fire and other things. Good luck with everything and I hope I receive mine in 1 piece!!!


----------



## VSG

Ya, I sent an email to the RMA email address on their website and copied Steve on it. Let's see what happens. Right now I am just feeling disappointed in the whole experience.


----------



## Mega Man

i am sure he will make it right !!


----------



## wermad

I ordered my first frozenq res in 2010 and it came assembled. All my tube reservoirs were the screw on type before i recently saw they went w/ push-in compression seal (double o-ring).

Well, I'm not gonna go into the foray and I hope everyone can get sorted soon. I'll put the res on hold for now and concentrate on other things (like ram blocks







!).

Good luck fellas!


----------



## VSG

I guess this video helps explain the situation. Is anyone has a DIY solution, I am all ears! The issue is that at its "normal" state (towards the red sleeved cathode wire, the helix comes up parallel to the other one and looks silly. So I would have to find a way to rotate it and then glue it.


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> These reservoirs used to be shipped in parts but they leaked pretty badly so Alex resorted to put the whole thing together using some silicone and glue (not sure, I thought I read this somewhere). This makes it nearly impossible to open up the reservoir- I tried applying some force but nothing.
> 
> As far as the switch goes, I will probably use some epoxy as the screw hole area is cracked. I guess the screw (which is missing) was loose and it opened up the hole and loosened itself out.


Sorry ive been a bit behind, its finals week and im swamped. The reservoirs are not glued together, they are held together via compression. It may be difficult to pull a cap off, but that's kindve a good thing. Means its not gonna leak. We use a special acrylic glue to hold the helix on. However, a dab of super glue could do the trick, It wouldn't be super pretty, but to be honest turn around time is a little long at the moment. The good news is, ill be back to work next week and we can try to get back on track.


----------



## VSG

So do I just try to pull the cap off or twist it off? Neither really worked when I applied some decent force and I don't want to break the thing.

Also, could you tell me what kind of screws are used for the switch? I managed to put it together and just need the screw now.


----------



## darwing

does alex have enough hired help? I feel terrible about his shop.... Im scared to ask to see what it would cost for a custom colored helix...


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> does alex have enough hired help? I feel terrible about his shop.... Im scared to ask to see what it would cost for a custom colored helix...


He had insurance on all his equipment, so I doubt it will cost that much to get it all replaced. Well, I doubt it will cost very much relative to what it WOULD cost him. XD

You'd be better off ordering a premade one from FCPU or PPCs, his shop has been running really slow since the accident, understandably. You'd probably be waiting a couple months longer than normal if you ordered a new one.


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> does alex have enough hired help? I feel terrible about his shop.... Im scared to ask to see what it would cost for a custom colored helix...


Prices have not gone up. Dont worry about that.


----------



## VSG

Steve, I managed to somewhat stabilize the helix by scraping on some loctite on the bottom using a scalpel through one of the G1/4 openings. So far it seems to be working but I would like to have the adhesive throughout the bottom of the helix if possible. Nothing I tried so far to open the res is working. Also, if you could let me know what size screw is used on the switch it would be appreciated.

The good news is that everything seems to be working (the color is much darker than what the camera is perceiving here):


----------



## seross69

Have you started any shipping yet I got a Tracking number but UPS does not have any record of it arriving. The tracking number is 1ZA3V3760392704488. Alex said bad snow on Tuesday the day it was printed but I had hoped by now I would see it in the UPS system?


----------



## ShortyDoo

Hey Steve I shot you a pm wondering if shipping of my cube res was straightened out? Good luck on finals...I just finished mine so I know how you feel


----------



## MRDcanadian

shot's of X4 orange reservoire with darkside LED strip instead of cathode

http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/MRDcanadian/media/Orange V8 GT/DSC_0178_zpse250a1af.jpg.html
http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/MRDcanadian/media/Orange V8 GT/DSC_0193_zpsc5d87189.jpg.html

led light dimed
http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/MRDcanadian/media/Orange V8 GT/DSC_0212_zpsb23faa03.jpg.html

enjoy the pron everyone


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Funny thing about smaller specialized businesses, when you know what hits the fan it takes a while to get back on their feet, JS. I'm honestly surprised he's even getting stuff out at all right now, it hasn't even been the six weeks he thought it was going to be for the new laser.
> 
> Honestly, if it is really that big a deal to you, then politely ask for a refund and buy something else. Otherwise lets just relax and have a little understanding that accidents happen - 99.9% sure that he's doing everything he possibly can to try to get caught up and make his customers happy.
> 
> Then after all this is over we can go back to drooling over everyone's awesome looking Qs


agree, does anyone know who he has hired for help, Im pretty sure he needs a new website as well he should have a bunch of people who can help distribute as his product is really popular and never reaching the demand as well any R&D for new products..

does someone know alex personally and is he in need of professional guidance cause I really feel as though if he got things together he could become a massive product line like meyhems


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> agree, does anyone know who he has hired for help, Im pretty sure he needs a new website as well he should have a bunch of people who can help distribute as his product is really popular and never reaching the demand as well any R&D for new products..
> 
> does someone know alex personally and is he in need of professional guidance cause I really feel as though if he got things together he could become a massive product line like meyhems


No time for R&D? He JUST released his waterblocks a couple months or so ago. XD


----------



## Gunderman456

Im in!

Will be using my FrozenQPCMods Liquid Fusion Red Helix in my new rig, "The Hawaiian Heat Wave" (build log in sig).


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> No time for R&D? He JUST released his waterblocks a couple months or so ago. XD


waterblocks?? what waterblocks, I know he did the quad spiral res, but that was some time ago also just an alteration to the current type he is known for


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> waterblocks?? what waterblocks, I know he did the quad spiral res, but that was some time ago also just an alteration to the current type he is known for


Here


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Here




These have been around since I thin k he started the company.. this is not new..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> Here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These have been around since I thin k he started the company.. this is not new..
Click to expand...

while not being new like last week released, they are new and have not been out since he started the company


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> while not being new like last week released, they are new and have not been out since he started the company


Thats what I thought but I dont have anything to back up my claim. But I have been a Frozen_Q customer for a couple years. Hell I still am using my "T-Virus" reservoir that is all glued acrylic. No removable end caps or anything.


----------



## wermad

Thanks to member Kpoeticg, I found a quad green spiral res (last one) on xioxide.com


----------



## kanaks

The res is the center of my build, I love its looks. A word of notice though, when I installed it at first it was leaking from the inner tube (the ccfl compartment) I had to drain the loop and tight the caps super tight thus the inner tube was properly sealed. It's a matter of a mm but always test before actual installation, its going to save you a lot of trouble.


----------



## feniks

ehhh, my story (mentioned first time on page 123) with those dark slimy deposits on reservoir helix continues ... 4 months passed on a single fill of distilled and Nuke PHN, all was well ... but in meantime my 5mm Dual UV LEDs burned out in the reservoir (LOL, XSPC brand doesn't use built-in resistors, dumb a$$es!) leaving it near dark for like 3 months ... so recently drained the whole system, refilled it and installed new Bitspower UV LEDs (dual 5mm) and to my horror I discovered that tiny dark spots (always on underside of helices) are already forming there again!

hmmm, I really don't know what is causing it. For now I keep it there as far as I know it's present only in reservoir, but next time I might disassemble all blocks and check again ... or possibly one of my radiators (newer Alphacool probably, don't reacall having this trouble before install of that rad) is still releasing some crap into the loop despite all the flushing, draining, cleaning, back-flushing and everything imaginable I did in past LOL!

here are close ups on reservoir with new distilled fill with Nuke PHN additive, you can see spots forming on underside of both the blue and red helix, left upper side of reservoir, ones on blue are easier to notice, but the red one has some too.


----------



## VSG

Steve, any idea about my RMA request? I haven't heard anything for almost a week now.


----------



## seross69

Got my 2nd res thanks guys will post pictures soon!!!


----------



## wermad

Has anyone picked up their cases yet? Curious if anyone has one. Reminds me of the old DD Double Wide cases.

Crossing fingers my res arrives tomorrow XD!


----------



## wermad




----------



## ShortyDoo

everyones' Reservoirs are looking great! hopefully I can get mine soon! things are starting to look bleak and like I've lost my money


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShortyDoo*
> 
> everyones' Reservoirs are looking great! hopefully I can get mine soon! things are starting to look bleak and like I've lost my money


I found mine through a retailer. I wanted some custom work done to mine but knowing the wait, I dropped this res from my list. Luckily, a member found this one for me on xioxide.com and i just went for it. The helix seem to be slightly loose but no leaks







.

FrozenQ's site does say a refund can be processed immediately if you prefer. Are you waiting for some custom work?


----------



## VSG

No wonder I wasn't able to take this thing apart by twisting it. Alex told me the frosted acrylic requires a "snapping" motion to open the caps. Above is a look at the innards of the 400 mL liquid fusion res with the 2 spirals apart. I will try to fix it using an adhesive but if it doesn't work, Alex will ship a new helix. I just hope there isn't any more delay with this now.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> 
> 
> No wonder I wasn't able to take this thing apart by twisting it. Alex told me the frosted acrylic requires a "snapping" motion to open the caps. Above is a look at the innards of the 400 mL liquid fusion res with the 2 spirals apart. I will try to fix it using an adhesive but if it doesn't work, Alex will ship a new helix. I just hope there isn't any more delay with this now.


The guys who make J&B weld have a waterproof quick drying puddy I used in a project a while ago. It dries like cement, and I mean that in the most literal form: Hard as a rock and a rough surface texture.

It would probably work very well for this, it comes in little tubes with the adhesive in a cylinder, with the catalyst in the center of the cylinder. Just kneed it, and apply.

It would probably be great for this job.

Or you could always pull a Billy Maze: MIGHTY PUDDY!


----------



## VSG

I got some loctite 495 which is supposedly waterproof but I don't know if it will impact with coolants. Do you have a link to the product you are referring to, by any chance?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I got some loctite 495 which is supposedly waterproof but I don't know if it will impact with coolants. Do you have a link to the product you are referring to, by any chance?


http://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-Waterweld-8277/202528473#

That: It's really solid stuff. Hard as granite.


----------



## solar0987

I also was wondering about my rma. Been 2 weeks since i heard anything.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987*
> 
> I also was wondering about my rma. Been 2 weeks since i heard anything.


What did you RMA? A lot of the parts he uses are laser cut, and his machine recently caught fire and temporarily shut his shop down which is what the wait is about.

He's currently waiting on a shipment of all his laser cut parts from a machine shop, so yeah...


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-Waterweld-8277/202528473#
> 
> That: It's really solid stuff. Hard as granite.


Thanks, will check with Alex and confirm this works. Looks good though


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Thanks, will check with Alex and confirm this works. Looks good though


I doubt he's ever used it. It's a "DIY Fixit" kind of product. He probably uses bulk buy adhesives, but none the less it's never a bad idea to get manufacturer recommendation.

Fair warning it does dry as an off white/tanish brown color, s if it's in a visible spot I wouldn't use it. I'd use some two part epoxy that dries clear/blurry if it's in a clearly visible place.


----------



## Steveo2400

Alright Ladies and Gentlemen, i am officially graduated and back to work here at FrozenQ. With that comes some new info. If you want to get a hold of me, the [email protected] email is now depreciated. To email me, use [email protected] We will also be putting in a land line, so ill have that number up for you guys at some point.


----------



## VSG

An actual phone number that will be responded to? Best news ever! Congratulations on the graduation, Steve


----------



## Steveo2400

Heck yeah. Ill be answering the phone as long as i can here it over the machines. Lol. And thank you, i appreciate it.


----------



## goodtobeking

Just what this thread needs









I am rebuilding my rig and the blue helix in my reservoir isnt good to look good with my Black with yellow accent build. May need to upgrade my reservoir and get the new style. Mine doesnt have any removable end caps


----------



## ShortyDoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I found mine through a retailer. I wanted some custom work done to mine but knowing the wait, I dropped this res from my list. Luckily, a member found this one for me on xioxide.com and i just went for it. The helix seem to be slightly loose but no leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> FrozenQ's site does say a refund can be processed immediately if you prefer. Are you waiting for some custom work?


Yeah I ordered a custom res for my build a while back. I have a build log on another forum but I wanted to wait to post the final pictures and details here...the res is the final piece. I already have a couple people wanting me to create similar builds for them so I know I'll need some more custom res work in the future.

Steve

Congratulations on graduating! I know you are relieved to be done. What did you get your degree in if you don't mind me asking?


----------



## Steveo2400

I have a degree in computer science with a focus in software development.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> I have a degree in computer science with a focus in software development.


Program a reservoir with arms that flips! DO A FLIP!


----------



## VSG

Better yet- helices that rotate inside the res. Now that would be amazing!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Better yet- helices that rotate inside the res. Now that would be amazing!


I'm fairly certain they're already working on that. It was suggested in a MUCH earlier post, and either Alex or Steve said they're actually messing around with that in their free time, which I'd imagine is few and far from these days.


----------



## VSG

They are? Well hopefully it happens in our lifetime


----------



## Mystriss

ooo I'd totally throw money at a rotating helix...


----------



## Barefooter

^^ This for sure


----------



## ShortyDoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> I have a degree in computer science with a focus in software development.


nice! very relevant and in demand.

A rotating helix would be cool. do they have the option for a pulsating light?


----------



## Mystriss

I was thinking about rewiring my CCFL to be sound activated


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I was thinking about rewiring my CCFL to be sound activated


Sound Activated CCFL Inverters are overrated to be honest. I had one, and they're not that spectacular. It doesn't work much with music, but what is cool is if you put it behind the fans in a well placed area then when the system is running it's dim, and if you have PWM fans then when your CPU starts heating up then the fans start pumping air and they glow. Kind of a cool effect, but ultimately not that great.


----------



## Danisumi

Hold your breath guys, FINALLY got my replacement ( actually the real Reservoir, since I got the wrong one last time)

Have a look










White cold cathode


UV cold cathode

In rl the UV looks so much more nice I think. With the white cathode the fluorescent blue doesn't look as nice as with UV









edit: it's the Liquid Fusion X4 Quad Spiral Reservoir 250mm
with Dark Blue and Fluorescent Blue Helixes, looks so friggin' awesome in reallife


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Sound Activated CCFL Inverters are overrated to be honest. I had one, and they're not that spectacular. It doesn't work much with music, but what is cool is if you put it behind the fans in a well placed area then when the system is running it's dim, and if you have PWM fans then when your CPU starts heating up then the fans start pumping air and they glow. Kind of a cool effect, but ultimately not that great.


So like a breathing effect, nice. But yea, the sound activated CCFL's take a bit of modding to flash right imo; gotta desolder the mic from the inverter PCB and mount it next to the speaker to get a good light to sound match - in my previous build I had my mic positioned next to my subwoofer to flash with only the bass.


----------



## darwing

More more pics and a video!! Man frozen Q is sick!!! I know he has gone through hell recently but Alex has a gift to the water cooling world of computers!!

K I'm gonna ask him if he has time or is capable of doing my requested custom res... If not it's alright he just won't be on the cover of pc magazine


----------



## Steveo2400

Hey guys, we have a Google+ page now! So, if any of you are the 16 people in the whole world that use Google+, you should add us to your circles.


----------



## VSG

A link would be nice though


----------



## yutzybrian

Here ya go!

https://plus.google.com/u/0/102224853592066408589/videos


----------



## seross69

Any idea what I can do about this? Look at the 2 custom reservoirs I had made and see if you can see differences??



the helix's are different colors???


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Any idea what I can do about this? Look at the 2 custom reservoirs I had made and see if you can see differences??
> 
> 
> 
> the helix's are different colors???


Empty them and fell the helixes with a dark blue UV reactive coolant. XD A darker background should drown out any differences, or you could just contact FCPU Customer support as given their reputation I'm sure they would fix it, but given their current situation I wouldn't exactly suggest that as it might take a long time.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Empty them and fell the helixes with a dark blue UV reactive coolant. XD A darker background should drown out any differences, or you could just contact FCPU Customer support as given their reputation I'm sure they would fix it, but given their current situation I wouldn't exactly suggest that as it might take a long time.


yeah the long time is the very reason I have not contacted them already!!! Dont want to wait for months again!!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yeah the long time is the very reason I have not contacted them already!!! Dont want to wait for months again!!!


Yeah, assuming you are planning to put a UV cathode in there I would fill the helixes with some really dark blue transparent coolant, and completely flood that sucker with UV blue dye. The darker background should completely drown out subtle acrylic difference.

If you're not planning to use a UV cathode, you could just drop the UV part of that solution.









What would be really cool is UV blue in the helix part, and clear/uv coolant being pumped through.









Most of the loop would be crystal clear, and when it gets to important parts like the CPU block, or the res it would glow blue.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yeah, assuming you are planning to put a UV cathode in there I would fill the helixes with some really dark blue transparent coolant, and completely flood that sucker with UV blue dye. The darker background should completely drown out subtle acrylic difference.
> 
> If you're not planning to use a UV cathode, you could just drop the UV part of that solution.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What would be really cool is UV blue in the helix part, and clear/uv coolant being pumped through.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most of the loop would be crystal clear, and when it gets to important parts like the CPU block, or the res it would glow blue.


I was wanting the blue to provide a water fall effect to the large reservoirs using just DI water!! I hope it will look ok!!! I am planning on using a dark and light blue sleeving so I hope it will match!!!


----------



## Steveo2400

Well, our reputation of taking too long is a thing of the past now that im back. With that said, they look different because they are two different batches of acrylic rod. Unfortunately, we have no control over that. We can make you a new set of helices. Basically you would take the new set and match it to whichever one matches it the closest and replace the others. Then just send us back the ones that dont match. Email me and we will talk about a time frame.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Well, our reputation of taking too long is a thing of the past now that im back. With that said, they look different because they are two different batches of acrylic rod. Unfortunately, we have no control over that. We can make you a new set of helices. Basically you would take the new set and match it to whichever one matches it the closest and replace the others. Then just send us back the ones that dont match. Email me and we will talk about a time frame.


That's great to hear. Did you get the new laser in yet?


----------



## Steveo2400

It should be a week and a half out. Trust me, we are counting the days.


----------



## VSG

Wait, did you always have that hardware rep status or am I just seeing it now?


----------



## Steveo2400

and BAM, a unique URL for google+. google.com/+Frozenqshopfq
Also, our phone is up and running! We will answer anytime between 8 AM and 5 PM eastern time. The number is 610 743 4138.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> and BAM, a unique URL for google+. google.com/+Frozenqshopfq
> Also, our phone is up and running! We will answer anytime between 8 AM and 5 PM eastern time. The number is 610 743 4138.


Google what? Is that like Facebook?? Lol what a social networking flop but great to know u have a way of contact!!


----------



## Steveo2400

Well, we have facebook and a twitter too.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Well, our reputation of taking too long is a thing of the past now that im back. With that said, they look different because they are two different batches of acrylic rod. Unfortunately, we have no control over that. We can make you a new set of helices. Basically you would take the new set and match it to whichever one matches it the closest and replace the others. Then just send us back the ones that dont match. Email me and we will talk about a time frame.


I am traveling now, I will email you in a couple of days and we can see what is best to do about this!!


----------



## wermad

I've ordered three blue fluorescent reservoirs in the last few years and the helix color was bit lighter then before for the most recent one.


----------



## seross69

I am hoping it will look ok and will be contacting steve to solve this. I am sure I will not have a problem!!


----------



## wermad

So, there's a few score marks on my tube res and most likely they came from the extruding process. Any one have any tips to polish this out? It has a light frost to it and its too noticeable though its not as clear as my old fusion reservoirs I had before. I bought this one from a retailer and I don't want to return it as its hard to get a hold of FrozenQ to order one.

Other then that, I do have some green Mayhems dye which may blend in well w/ the fluorescent green







.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, there's a few score marks on my tube res and most likely they came from the extruding process. Any one have any tips to polish this out? It has a light frost to it and its too noticeable though its not as clear as my old fusion reservoirs I had before. I bought this one from a retailer and I don't want to return it as its hard to get a hold of FrozenQ to order one.
> 
> Other then that, I do have some green Mayhems dye which may blend in well w/ the fluorescent green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Transparent dark green coolant, UV reactive if you have a UV cathode. It should probably hide it pretty well.

Rotate the reservoir to try and hide the blemish, perhaps swap the two cathode positions if needed.

If you're willing to get adventurous order some colored acrylic from FCPU, scratch it and try to go over it with a really fine grit sandpaper and some type of plastic buffing compound, and see if you can get desirable results on some worthless plastic throw away test subjects.

That's all I can think of off the side of my head.

Supposedly fQ got their orders up to date, and are just waiting on a laser cutter.


----------



## Mystriss

Might try your local auto store, I had some stuff called Novus that was able to take out smaller scratches; was a three part thing - scratch remover, buffer, cleaner - made for cars. I'd used it on an old front bezel that was glossy black and it worked alright to buff out the cut marks. (Don't think I have the item or Novus polish anymore so I can't photograph it sorry)


----------



## Mega Man

i have been told toothpaste works wonders !


----------



## wermad

Its the clear tube part that has the score marks.

Thanks for the suggestions


----------



## kanaks

my frozenQ leaks from the inner ring







Being a foreign customer can i contact with the local dealer and request an RMA?? Its the model with the inner threads an probalby leaks from there.


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kanaks*
> 
> my frozenQ leaks from the inner ring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being a foreign customer can i contact with the local dealer and request an RMA?? Its the model with the inner threads an probalby leaks from there.


I would try taking it apart and wrapping plumbers tape around the base of the cathode shell before going to the trouble of an RMA. If that doesnt solve the problem, email me on [email protected] and we will discuss your RMA.


----------



## kanaks

Thanks for the promptly reply. I tried with Teflon tape a couple of times but with no success, anyways I am going to send you a pm.


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> So, there's a few score marks on my tube res and most likely they came from the extruding process. Any one have any tips to polish this out? It has a light frost to it and its too noticeable though its not as clear as my old fusion reservoirs I had before. I bought this one from a retailer and I don't want to return it as its hard to get a hold of FrozenQ to order one.
> 
> Other then that, I do have some green Mayhems dye which may blend in well w/ the fluorescent green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I have used this Meguiar's Plastic Polish for scratches. Works pretty good.
http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/m1008-clear-plastic-polish/


----------



## darwing

I sent frozenQ and Alex an email about making a custom res and he hasn't gotten back to me at all, if it's not possible I'd like just a email saying it's not possible, cause the ill get another res


----------



## Gunderman456

I have the helix one, what do you plug the thing in to get it to glow. Not the mobo or a any fan connector, so where would I plug it?


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darwing*
> 
> I sent frozenQ and Alex an email about making a custom res and he hasn't gotten back to me at all, if it's not possible I'd like just a email saying it's not possible, cause the ill get another res


Email me. [email protected]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gunderman456*
> 
> I have the helix one, what do you plug the thing in to get it to glow. Not the mobo or a any fan connector, so where would I plug it?


The Cathode needs to be plugged into an inverter. We sell them on the webshop.


----------



## Gunderman456

Thanks Steve, I will get one locally.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Email me. [email protected]


Forwarded original went to [email protected] but the support email just bounced back... I just pmed u


----------



## ShortyDoo

i think he had a mistype and put a g instead of a q. i would try @frozenqpcmods.com


----------



## Gunderman456

I received the inverter today and was finally able to power the reservoir.


----------



## Steveo2400

Anyone who tried to email over the weekend, our email was down. It is back up though, so feel free to email us again.


----------



## Danisumi

Come on guys! POST SOME PICS, I want to see see this awesome Reservoir's in your Case's


----------



## Eufawria

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> Come on guys! POST SOME PICS, I want to see see this awesome Reservoir's in your Case's




Been sitting like that for months now. Filling up the loop this week....hopefully. Case is a TJ11


----------



## Eufawria

And don't mind that little red card. That was just a place holder so I can visualize my layout of my tubing


----------



## seross69

I think I posted before but here is the 2 biggest reservoirs made by FrozenQPC


----------



## Eufawria

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think I posted before but here is the 2 biggest reservoirs made by FrozenQPC


I still look at this and say "WOW". But imagine if there was a little motor which span the T-Virus.


----------



## Mega Man

the leak potential would be far too high, i know how they make bearings for that kind of stuff, would increase cost by 500% min

an easier way would be to use the water to spin the insert, which last news i heard is something he is working on


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the leak potential would be far too high, i know how they make bearings for that kind of stuff, would increase cost by 500% min
> 
> an easier way would be to use the water to spin the insert, which last news i heard is something he is working on


Yeah, that's what I was thinking: put the helix on a bearing, and have the water flow push it in circles. XD


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the leak potential would be far too high, i know how they make bearings for that kind of stuff, would increase cost by 500% min
> 
> an easier way would be to use the water to spin the insert, which last news i heard is something he is working on
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that's what I was thinking: put the helix on a bearing, and have the water flow push it in circles. XD
Click to expand...

personally i would not go that far, bearings are usually metal and metal + water = bad and again with cost. esp if the bearings fail within warranty.

i would go with just a hole drilled in the middle and a rod it spins around. the in dev part is probably looking at keeping it rotating long term esp with weak flow


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> personally i would not go that far, bearings are usually metal and metal + water = bad and again with cost. esp if the bearings fail within warranty.
> 
> i would go with just a hole drilled in the middle and a rod it spins around. the in dev part is probably looking at keeping it rotating long term esp with weak flow


Or you could go with a basic ceramic bearing.... It could use the water in the reservoir for lubrication, just like the bearings in your pump.

Even a normal metal on metal bearing would be fine, assuming it used brass on copper like the Corsair pumps.

Metal bearings aren't an issue so long as they do their research.

Rods, I imagine, would grind on it's surroundings. You want as little resistance as possible if you're looking to keep the weak flow from the intake to keep it spinning.

A copper rod held in suspension by magnets might bode well. Like two magnets at each end pulling on it, keeping it in suspension would create next to no resistance while keeping it from grinding on anything.


----------



## Mega Man

once again i would like to bring into the pic price, he needs a margin to make up for r&d and the materials, labor and warranty


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> once again i would like to bring into the pic price, he needs a margin to make up for r&d and the materials, labor and warranty


True, but throwing a rod in there with nothing else would grind away at whatever it's housing in, increase $ lost from RMAs.

A copper rod and two magnets, and cheap ceramic bearings would probably both be the same price range.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> True, but throwing a rod in there with nothing else would grind away at whatever it's housing in, increase $ lost from RMAs.
> 
> A copper rod and two magnets, and cheap ceramic bearings would probably both be the same price range.


actually a rod with a ceramic sleeve or Teflon sleeve would be the way to go. (sleeve is a bearing with out the balls) either of these would last a long time and would not wear as the temps would be controlled by the water.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> actually a rod with a ceramic sleeve or Teflon sleeve would be the way to go. (sleeve is a bearing with out the balls) either of these would last a long time and would not wear as the temps would be controlled by the water.


Yeah a ceramic sleeve would work wonderfully, but now you're just turning into a sleeve bearing that uses the reservoirs water as a lubricant.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Yeah a ceramic sleeve would work wonderfully, but now you're just turning into a sleeve bearing that uses the reservoirs water as a lubricant.


why not??

and I think Teflon would be cheaper it might not last as long but would last a long time. we use Teflon bearing sleeves in a lot of high stress areas with good results and long life!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> why not??
> 
> and I think Teflon would be cheaper it might not last as long but would last a long time. we use Teflon bearing sleeves in a lot of high stress areas with good results and long life!!


I'd feel better about a ceramic sleeve personally, but I'm sure you have more experience with it as you have actually used Teflon bearing sleeves at that point.

As to why not, I never stated not too. XD

I stated you would have essentially created a bearing. Mega Man said a bearing would be too pricy to leave adequate profit margins.

So yeah, Why not? It works.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> I'd feel better about a ceramic sleeve personally, but I'm sure you have more experience with it as you have actually used Teflon bearing sleeves at that point.
> 
> As to why not, I never stated not too. XD
> 
> I stated you would have essentially created a bearing. Mega Man said a bearing would be too pricy to leave adequate profit margins.
> 
> So yeah, Why not? It works.


I am sorry to inform you guys but a Teflon sleeve bearing bought in bulk would be 50 to 75 cents each.

if we want this and you are willing to make it then take the cost of the extra materials to include shipping, storage and labor and add 10 to 20% to this and then you have the cost of doing this. and a profit margin and let people choose if they want it or not. if you think I am wrong on the cost of the sleeves see below picture.



or you can by a sheet of Teflon and mill your own out. imagine how many 1/8 X 3/16 sleeves you could make out of a .75 X 48" X 48" i just did a rough calculation and ot was about 12000 of them. so the below sheet of Teflon would cost about 5 dollars to make a sleeve your self.

oh yeah just checked for curiosity and brass sleeve bearing less than 1 dollar and this would last a long time. we use these in engines and run hard at high temps and change after 36000 hours of run time....



So give the customer a choice of a rotating Heliex and it might add 10 dollars at the very most to it.

just something I found in a 5 minute search on the net!!! plus my own experience.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I am sorry to inform you guys but a Teflon sleeve bearing bought in bulk would be 50 to 75 cents each.
> 
> if we want this and you are willing to make it then take the cost of the extra materials to include shipping, storage and labor and add 10 to 20% to this and then you have the cost of doing this. and a profit margin and let people choose if they want it or not. if you think I am wrong on the cost of the sleeves see below picture.
> 
> 
> 
> or you can by a sheet of Teflon and mill your own out. imagine how many 1/8 X 3/16 sleeves you could make out of a .75 X 48" X 48" i just did a rough calculation and ot was about 12000 of them. so the below sheet of Teflon would cost about 5 dollars to make a sleeve your self.
> 
> oh yeah just checked for curiosity and brass sleeve bearing less than 1 dollar and this would last a long time. we use these in engines and run hard at high temps and change after 36000 hours of run time....
> 
> 
> 
> So give the customer a choice of a rotating Heliex and it might add 10 dollars at the very most to it.
> 
> just something I found in a 5 minute search on the net!!! plus my own experience.


LOL, I never said it was too expensive.

I love the idea, and they could just replace the acetyl end caps with Teflon end caps, and instantly that $5 bearings become nearly cost less as they would just replace the end caps entirely.

Anyways, sounds good: Now we just need to hope Alex sees this. XD


----------



## Mega Man

for the bearings yes
for the cost and development of implication and making the actual inserts spinning ??? and cost for increased RMAs due to failures ?

this does not even go into cost of implementing them on his assembly line assuming he has one


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> LOL, I never said it was too expensive.
> 
> I love the idea, and they could just replace the acetyl end caps with Teflon end caps, and instantly that $5 bearings become nearly cost less as they would just replace the end caps entirely.
> 
> Anyways, sounds good: Now we just need to hope Alex sees this. XD


Sorry did not mean to come across so strong but having guys that work for me tell me all day that that is wrong or this is wrong or you cant do it this way. I can not stand defeatist attitude. Where they is a will they is usually a way and not always so expensive. And I just finally blew up and chew some but's a few minutes ago so I feel a little better. I told them I have been doing this for 20 years and if I told them something would work or there was a way to just do what I said!!!! We get paid to make it work and find a way to do this. as long as it is reasonable safe, will not harm the equipment or environment. we are not going to stand around and talk about it when it is costing me 6000 dollars a hour and our client 65000 dollars a hour!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I hate working internationally sometimes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Sorry did not mean to come across so strong but having guys that work for me tell me all day that that is wrong or this is wrong or you cant do it this way. I can not stand defeatist attitude. Where they is a will they is usually a way and not always so expensive. And I just finally blew up and chew some but's a few minutes ago so I feel a little better. I told them I have been doing this for 20 years and if I told them something would work or there was a way to just do what I said!!!! We get paid to make it work and find a way to do this. as long as it is reasonable safe, will not harm the equipment or environment. we are not going to stand around and talk about it when it is costing me 6000 dollars a hour and our client 65000 dollars a hour!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> I hate working internationally sometimes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Lol, What do you do for work?

And I'm sure a rotating helix would cost a good $60 extra. The bearing itself bay be cheap, but you need to factor in mounting hardware for the helix itself, account for initial RMAs and complications at drop, and a temporary higher increase to pay for R&D.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> LOL, I never said it was too expensive.
> 
> I love the idea, and they could just replace the acetyl end caps with Teflon end caps, and instantly that $5 bearings become nearly cost less as they would just replace the end caps entirely.
> 
> Anyways, sounds good: Now we just need to hope Alex sees this. XD
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry did not mean to come across so strong but having guys that work for me tell me all day that that is wrong or this is wrong or you cant do it this way. I can not stand defeatist attitude. Where they is a will they is usually a way and not always so expensive. And I just finally blew up and chew some but's a few minutes ago so I feel a little better. I told them I have been doing this for 20 years and if I told them something would work or there was a way to just do what I said!!!! We get paid to make it work and find a way to do this. as long as it is reasonable safe, will not harm the equipment or environment. we are not going to stand around and talk about it when it is costing me 6000 dollars a hour and our client 65000 dollars a hour!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! just DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> I hate working internationally sometimes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

i understand


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Lol, What do you do for work?
> 
> And I'm sure a rotating helix would cost a good $60 extra. The bearing itself bay be cheap, but you need to factor in mounting hardware for the helix itself, account for initial RMAs and complications at drop, and a temporary higher increase to pay for R&D.


you are closer on cost I am sure.

I work as a engineer on a drilling rig. We are really a rental tool company. the client (BP, Exxon, Shell or who ever) pays a day rate for the rig. then he also has a lot of cost with the special tools and equipment they use. So that is where I got the figures. I am in charge of all maintenance and the budget for the rig. So you can imagine the amount of work I have and the responsibility. but I only work 28 days then off for 28 days and let someone else worry with it.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> you are closer on cost I am sure.
> 
> I work as a engineer on a drilling rig. We are really a rental tool company. the client (BP, Exxon, Shell or who ever) pays a day rate for the rig. then he also has a lot of cost with the special tools and equipment they use. So that is where I got the figures. I am in charge of all maintenance and the budget for the rig. So you can imagine the amount of work I have and the responsibility. but I only work 28 days then off for 28 days and let someone else worry with it.


HA, I worked seasonal as boot barn and had a bunch of people coming in to get high density fabric overalls, oil resistant boots, etc. It seems like a kick ass job considering it's stability, everybody needs oil. XD

But yeah, a rotating helix would be wicked, and sell like hotcakes I'm sure.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> HA, I worked seasonal as boot barn and had a bunch of people coming in to get high density fabric overalls, oil resistant boots, etc. It seems like a kick ass job considering it's stability, everybody needs oil. XD
> 
> But yeah, a rotating helix would be wicked, and sell like hotcakes I'm sure.


I would pay 50 dollars extra for this for sure!!!!


----------



## Steveo2400

We are working on it guys, dont you worry about that.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> We are working on it guys, dont you worry about that.[/quot]
> 
> Can't wait for them, It'll be bloody brilliant to have a spinning helix reservoir.


----------



## Barefooter

A rotating helix would be so cool! Especially if it turned slowly.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Yup, this is something we've been toying around with for quite some time. Luckily at this time, it doesn't look like it's going to cost too much more to implement. I can't say for sure, but a 250mm model will likely be around $110. Expect to see something along the lines of a prototype within a month or so.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Yup, this is something we've been toying around with for quite some time. Luckily at this time, it doesn't look like it's going to cost too much more to implement. I can't say for sure, but a 250mm model will likely be around $110. Expect to see something along the lines of a prototype within a month or so.


nice ! good to hear from you does this mean you might be possibly getting caught up ??


----------



## VSG

That's not a bad price at all. Will these be available as "upgrade" parts for the regular liquid fusion?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice ! good to hear from you does this mean you might be possibly getting caught up ??


Yeah definitely. The new laser arrives Monday. It was supposed to arrive today but the snowstorm delayed it. Once that gets set up we can finally start moving with everything. As of now we've been doing as much as we can without it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's not a bad price at all. Will these be available as "upgrade" parts for the regular liquid fusion?


Unfortunately probably not. It looks like right now it will be a standalone product.


----------



## VSG

Ah that's disappointing. I am still interested in seeing how this works out though


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ah that's disappointing. I am still interested in seeing how this works out though


Eh, I won't discount it as a possibility. If I can make it work as an upgrade I certainly will.


----------



## Danisumi

Am I able to get some clear end caps? how much will I have to pay for them? I have not found anything for some separate end caps on the shop.

I would like the frosted end caps. The top one with a fill port and the cathode hole and the bottom cap with 1 side port and 1 bottom port. Those are the compression ones, not the threaded. I hope you can help me


----------



## pcoutu17

Are there any pump tops or adapters out there that allow a D5 pump to be mounted directly to one of the 250mm Liquid Fusion tube reservoirs?


----------



## goodtobeking

I have been using threaded adapters and/or video card sli fittings to mount my pump directly to the reservoir. Not sure if thats what your asking


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pcoutu17*
> 
> Are there any pump tops or adapters out there that allow a D5 pump to be mounted directly to one of the 250mm Liquid Fusion tube reservoirs?


I've seen reservoir tops but nothing for this. The way the helices and cathode tube mount I'm not even sure it'd be possible without a custom solution from FrozenQ himself


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> I've seen reservoir tops but nothing for this. The way the helices and cathode tube mount I'm not even sure it'd be possible without a custom solution from FrozenQ himself


I've seen it done for a custom order res, but the problem is you end up needing wires for the cathode coming out the top, since they can't come out of the bottom since there's a pump there.


----------



## VSG

Finally set up my loop, put in a bit of water in the res and immediately I noticed a small leak from one of the side ports that I have set up as the return port. No amount of tightening the fitting did anything so now I am waiting for the water to slowly leak out completely before I take it apart and diagnose what happened. Hopefully the res itself is fine because I have had to replace pretty much everything else


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Finally set up my loop, put in a bit of water in the res and immediately I noticed a small leak from one of the side ports that I have set up as the return port. No amount of tightening the fitting did anything so now I am waiting for the water to slowly leak out completely before I take it apart and diagnose what happened. Hopefully the res itself is fine because I have had to replace pretty much everything else


Did you have an o-ring on the fitting?......


----------



## VSG

Yes, I did. I will take it apart in a bit and see what happened.


----------



## Aemonn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yes, I did. I will take it apart in a bit and see what happened.


Use some plumbers tape on the threads of the fitting and be careful not to over-tighten.


----------



## VSG

Plumber's tape is counter intuitive though- these fittings are held leak proof by the O-rings, and plumber's/teflon tape is more for NPT style threading that has no other means of leak proofing.

As an update, the same configuration has no leaks outside the case but leaks slowly inside. I had a feeling the rotary fitting is at fault here and not the reservoir itself but different rotaries had the same result.


----------



## SwishaMane

Tape saved my res from going in the trash...

And some silicon to seal the CCFL tube from water. Tape and silicon saved my $150 res...


----------



## VSG

Interesting. Anyway it wasn't the res at fault- I replaced the fitting and now everything seems fine.


----------



## GeraltW

Hi Guys,

joined the forums (been lurking for a while and finally decided to join in ) and will be adding my name here as well as I just ordered one tri spiral, but I'm wondering whats the average wait time for them? Also how long you think It'll take to get to me - i'min Ireland?


----------



## darwing

Depends where you ordered it from from frozen CPU? Or frozenQ ?

Oh yea welcome to the party


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeraltW*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> joined the forums (been lurking for a while and finally decided to join in ) and will be adding my name here as well as I just ordered one tri spiral, but I'm wondering whats the average wait time for them? Also how long you think It'll take to get to me - i'min Ireland?


Welcome to OCN. Depends where you ordered it from, directly from FrozenQ might take a bit as they're made custom to order. If you ordered it from a reseller like FrozenCPU or another then it'll arrive just like any other item from them would, as they're reassembled, for the most part.


----------



## GeraltW

Hi, yeah forgot to mention I've ordered it directly ftom frozenq


----------



## wermad

Well, my bulb went out. Is FrozenQ back to any sense of normalcy to order from them??? Thanks


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Well, my bulb went out. Is FrozenQ back to any sense of normalcy to order from them??? Thanks


Supposedly they got their new laser in a couple weeks ago, and they're finding time for R&d to play around with prototypes so I'm assuming so.


----------



## sinnedone

Hey guys, I have a quick question.

I want to use one of the frozenq reservoirs with a mcp35x pump. Now the res I want to use has the single port side offset rather then centered (assuming because of lighting). There are no pump tops available that I can find that will be a simple solution, and the only idea I have is to use a male/male adapter in between.

Is this the only solution?

Are there any pictures around of an offset port reservoir sitting on top of a mcp35x with mod top?

Any ideas will also be appreciated. Just trying to keep everything looking clean and making things sturdier.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinnedone*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a quick question.
> 
> I want to use one of the frozenq reservoirs with a mcp35x pump. Now the res I want to use has the single port side offset rather then centered (assuming because of lighting). There are no pump tops available that I can find that will be a simple solution, and the only idea I have is to use a male/male adapter in between.
> 
> Is this the only solution?
> 
> Are there any pictures around of an offset port reservoir sitting on top of a mcp35x with mod top?
> 
> Any ideas will also be appreciated. Just trying to keep everything looking clean and making things sturdier.


A link to your reservoir would help.


----------



## VSG

Sounds like a typical liquid fusion cylinder with the center dedicated to the cathode.


----------



## sinnedone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sounds like a typical liquid fusion cylinder with the center dedicated to the cathode.


This









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> A link to your reservoir would help.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/20611/ex-res-580/FrozenQ_PC_Mods_250mm_Liquid_Fusion_X4_Series_Reservoir_-_UV_Cathode_-_Fluorescent_Red_Helix.html?tl=g30c97s1110#blank

Haven't purchase yet but deciding and planning as of now.


----------



## VSG

You can ask Alex about a custom top but I just use rotary male-male fittings.


----------



## sinnedone

Yeah that's what I figured, but would it look funny offset?


----------



## Talinthis

i got mine just now, i have a question for those with the Cathode inside.. why is there a small hole on the top of the reservoir right where the cathode is located? looks like white heat shrink on the end of the cathode.. dont you pull it through the bottom? why is this hole here?


----------



## wermad

Its a sealed tube where the cathode slips in. Most likely, its left open on both ends if you wish to rough the cathode cable from the other side.


----------



## Talinthis

hm i see. also the first problem i have is the molex ground pin fell out when i went to plug it in, how does one fix these?


----------



## Buzz247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talinthis*
> 
> hm i see. also the first problem i have is the molex ground pin fell out when i went to plug it in, how does one fix these?


usually just push back in and the clip facing backward catches. Now if that clip got bent down, obviously that wont happen. Just take a pin or blade tip and bend it back out a mm or so, re insert.

Unless you mean the pin came off the wire... then it is re crimp time


----------



## Talinthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> usually just push back in and the clip facing backward catches. Now if that clip got bent down, obviously that wont happen. Just take a pin or blade tip and bend it back out a mm or so, re insert.
> 
> Unless you mean the pin came off the wire... then it is re crimp time


i see, i got it figured. usually i just go and get one of the ten million other cables i got and replace the whole thing, but this one is connected to the bracket with an on/off switch which i think is fantastic!

got it snug in there now, gonna go do that to the other 4-5 i have right now that were like that right out of the box when i bought them. thanks!


----------



## Aesthethc

Have you guys ever run the reservoir on its side? Is that okay? or is the reservoir not designed to be mounted sideways ?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aesthethc*
> 
> Have you guys ever run the reservoir on its side? Is that okay? or is the reservoir not designed to be mounted sideways ?


Horizontal mounts are atypical but they do work fine, you just NEED to keep the water line above the in and out ports. Also, don't use a nano fluid like pastel or aurora with horizontal mounts.


----------



## Aesthethc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Horizontal mounts are atypical but they do work fine, you just NEED to keep the water line above the in and out ports. Also, don't use a nano fluid like pastel or aurora with horizontal mounts.


Ill be using distilled water. Thats it.

Yeah i plan on filling it all the way before putting it sideways so i wont get a huge air bubble showing in my reservoir.

I was planning rotating my mobo tray 90 degrees to the right and my reservoir sideways....


----------



## joztdarb

Count me in guys











I'm having trouble putting an order through on the Frozen Q website, I get to the Payment Information but there is nothing to select so I can't get any further. Anyone know where I'm going wrong or is it a problem with the site? Its a UK order if that makes any difference.

Also does anyone know if they still make these UV res mounts?


----------



## Mega Man

i am sure the mounts are still available, but idk about the site


----------



## joztdarb

Thanks I've managed to sort it out now, I was using the old site lol. UV mounts and Frosted caps are now ordered


----------



## Midnite8

I just got a FrozenQ 250mm res, how would I just screw in a D5 Vario Pump/W top to the bottom of it?


----------



## wermad

Anyone know of alternatives sources for the uv bulb (for cylinder reservoirs)?


----------



## VSG

A male-male fitting would be your best bet.


----------



## Talinthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> I just got a FrozenQ 250mm res, how would I just screw in a D5 Vario Pump/W top to the bottom of it?


i got the swiftech, basically same pump for looks, i am piping it right in using a M/F adapter with a M/M 5mm extender and then putting both the res and pump together. didnt want tubing inbetween. maybe there is an easier way but this is my first go at watercooling. fittings should be here tomorrow.

i should also mention im using the side holes.. bottom is a drain coming off of the res


----------



## joztdarb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Anyone know of alternatives sources for the uv bulb (for cylinder reservoirs)?


Just google UV CCFL, Sharkoon and Revoltech make them. You can take the ends of and remove the bulb which will fit in the res, they come in size 4" to 12" I think.


----------



## Talinthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> I just got a FrozenQ 250mm res, how would I just screw in a D5 Vario Pump/W top to the bottom of it?


^ what he said
Frozencpu has some impressive choices as well, though if you are in canada like i am you try to avoid buying from them since shipping is like 25 dollars


----------



## joztdarb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talinthis*
> 
> ^ what he said
> Frozencpu has some impressive choices as well, though if you are in canada like i am you try to avoid buying from them since shipping is like 25 dollars


Do they fit? I imagine they would just screw on but the thread would have to match.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Don't bother buying specialty UV CCFLs, they're all the same more or less. You can buy off brand, name brand, whatever it's just a tiny class tube with a phosphor inside a plastic tube with some cheap inverter.

I'm wondering why no one has stepped in and made some powerful CCFLs for PC enthusiasts. All it would take is acrylic-glass pipes, some phosphor tanks of the various gasses you need, and some knowledge about how to wire in the prongs that heat the phosphor. Maybe pass through the AC line through PCI backplates to avoid the use of cheap inverters. Some high quality CCFLs would sell like hotcakes in this hobby, yet all we have are those wimpy CCFLs in those tiny glass tubes. Anyways, that's enough of my rant, you can just hardmod a CCFL to slide into the res through a G1/4" cap.


----------



## Talinthis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joztdarb*
> 
> Do they fit? I imagine they would just screw on but the thread would have to match.


im not sure if they have threads or not, the couple i got i just slide in the tube just like frozenq's one you get. i had to pad the bottom of the light so they didnt fall out though they were pretty loose


----------



## Midnite8

I just bought some CCFLs but they have the square piece on both ends, how do I take them off so I can put them through the res since the hole is a small diameter? Can I use a dremel to cut off the square pieces and put the UV bulb directly in it?


----------



## joztdarb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> I just bought some CCFLs but they have the square piece on both ends, how do I take them off so I can put them through the res since the hole is a small diameter?
> 
> Just gentle twist the square ends, they come off pretty easy.


----------



## joztdarb

Well they are a bit stiff, but do come off, see


----------



## Midnite8

is it safe to have the bulb in the tube by itself, there won't be any melting right?


----------



## joztdarb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> is it safe to have the bulb in the tube by itself, there won't be any melting right?


Wrap some velcro around the end of the bulb, there should be a velcro patch you can stick it to at one end of your res


----------



## joztdarb

This vid explains how it all works

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DtM52J1Pztc&feature=youtube_gdata_player


----------



## Midnite8

Thanks guys! When the guy says to "line up" the fill ports, what exactly does it mean?


----------



## VSG

Pretty much just not having the helix block the ports you are using, that's all.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joztdarb*
> 
> Well they are a bit stiff, but do come off, see


Well, pulled out the ccfl and it was cracked in two so that explains why it does light up. Not sure how it cracked but its dead basically. Ordered two 8" uv ccfl from newegg for $9 w/ free shipping. The usual shops (ppcs.com and fcpu.com) were more than twice as much. Thanks for the tip on the standard ccfl lights to use w/ the res. +1


----------



## Steveo2400

Only one of the ends is going to come off that easily. Before we started getting them in without the tube, i spent a lot of my time cutting them open. We use a pair of wire cutters to snip off the bottom square. Then we find a part of the tube that has the least amount of glue and lightly snip it to break a small segment off, and then slowly twist the cathode to unseat it from the hot glue. Its not the easiest thing to do, but it can be done.


----------



## Midnite8

Hey guys, I have a problem with my tube res. I think one of the threads on the bottom is stripped or something but if I keep screwing it will tighten almost all the way and if I go any further it becomes a bit looser again. When I tilt the res sideways or any big movements water starts leaking out from the threads. The o-ring is still intact


----------



## yutzybrian

Sounds like you cross threaded


----------



## Midnite8

How should I fix this? Can I use plumbers tape


----------



## joztdarb

May be a safer bet just replacing it, you can buy just the bits you need from the website rather than buying a whole new res.

http://www.frozenqshop.com/


----------



## Midnite8

I will try plumbers tape that will be a couple of bucks before spending $15 to get a new tube


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> I will try plumbers tape that will be a couple of bucks before spending $15 to get a new tube


probably would be better to just slightly drill it out ( oversize ) and use a slightly bigger screw for that size


----------



## Midnite8

Not entirely sure what you mean


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> Not entirely sure what you mean


drill out the hole with a slightly bigger drill wander to the hardware store and find a similar type of screw to the one that you will replace ( take the old screw and the drill bit you used to the store, get the same type of screw, however at the bigger size of the drill bit that you used to make the hole bigger )


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> drill out the hole with a slightly bigger drill wander to the hardware store and find a similar type of screw to the one that you will replace ( take the old screw and the drill bit you used to the store, get the same type of screw, however at the bigger size of the drill bit that you used to make the hole bigger )


I think it's the barb thread he's talking about, not a screw thread.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> drill out the hole with a slightly bigger drill wander to the hardware store and find a similar type of screw to the one that you will replace ( take the old screw and the drill bit you used to the store, get the same type of screw, however at the bigger size of the drill bit that you used to make the hole bigger )
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's the barb thread he's talking about, not a screw thread.
Click to expand...

ahhhhhhhh yea teflon tape !


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ahhhhhhhh yea teflon tape !


I'd say get an O-ring for the fitting if you haven't already put on one, wrap the barbs threads in Teflon tape, coat the now teflon wrapped threads with lithium grease, then screw it in. You can pick up lithium grease at your local automobile store.


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Midnite8*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a problem with my tube res. I think one of the threads on the bottom is stripped or something but if I keep screwing it will tighten almost all the way and if I go any further it becomes a bit looser again. When I tilt the res sideways or any big movements water starts leaking out from the threads. The o-ring is still intact


When did you get the reservoir? If its been less than a year, you can put in an RMA on our website (http://www.frozenqshop.com/rma-form/) and we can send you a new cap.


----------



## Tommyknocker

Remember to use your teflon tape clockwise as you face the thread or it will not work. I use it everyday in the oilfields.


----------



## wermad

With most BSPP G1/4 fittings, the o-rings does the seal, so technically, you don't need teflon tape. I've heard of stories where threads get ruined after using tape.


----------



## Tommyknocker

Thread tape does ruin threads for sure. We never use thread tape on brass , steel only. Pipe dope works surprisingly well though. Copper Cote is a good alternative and doesn't round the threads like thread tape. Good call wermad.


----------



## JamesB

Why would anyone ever use Teflon tape in water-cooling? If you have a leak, the nozzle is either not screwed in, or the o-ring is damaged or missing. The o-ring makes the seal, not the threads of the fitting.


----------



## wermad

Since its parallel threaded, you need an o-ring, regardless if its copper, brass, ss, nickel-plated, plastic, acetal, etc.

Many, many years ago, most wc setups were diy w/ many parts commonly found in the plumbing section of your hardware store. Most plumbing is tapered so tape is needed to make the seal. British Standard Pipe Parallel size 1/4 (aka BSPP G1/4) is pretty much the industry standard for pc water cooling threads. So you always need an o-ring to seal. You will find some G3/8 and G1/2 threaded parts, these are just larger sizes but they're rarely used in pc water cooling.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Since its parallel threaded, you need an o-ring, regardless if its copper, brass, ss, nickel-plated, plastic, acetal, etc.
> 
> Many, many years ago, most wc setups were diy w/ many parts commonly found in the plumbing section of your hardware store. Most plumbing is tapered so tape is needed to make the seal. British Standard Pipe Parallel size 1/4 (aka BSPP G1/4) is pretty much the industry standard for pc water cooling threads. So you always need an o-ring to seal. You will find some G3/8 and G1/2 threaded parts, these are just larger sizes but they're rarely used in pc water cooling.


ironiclally pipe dope and thread tape is designed to protect the thread, not seal leaks...

i use blue monster it is epic


----------



## ZytheEKS

I'm telling you guys, lithium grease is the way to go. Non water soluble, non reactive to heat, dielectric, extremely thick, easy to use, non reactive to coolants, cheap.


----------



## Midnite8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> When did you get the reservoir? If its been less than a year, you can put in an RMA on our website (http://www.frozenqshop.com/rma-form/) and we can send you a new cap.


I just went ahead and ordered a new replacement polycarbonate tube on the 12th, when do you think my order will arrive? Order #591


----------



## SwishaMane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ironiclally pipe dope and thread tape is designed to protect the thread, not seal leaks...
> 
> i use blue monster it is epic


Ironically, protecting the threads will help keep the seal better than damaged threads.

LOL


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SwishaMane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ironiclally pipe dope and thread tape is designed to protect the thread, not seal leaks...
> 
> i use blue monster it is epic
> 
> 
> 
> Ironically, protecting the threads will help keep the seal better than damaged threads.
> 
> LOL
Click to expand...

it allows the threads to push farther into the tapered threads making a far better seal


----------



## Ceadderman

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JamesB*
> 
> Why would anyone ever use Teflon tape in water-cooling? If you have a leak, the nozzle is either not screwed in, or the o-ring is damaged or missing. The o-ring makes the seal, not the threads of the fitting.






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Since its parallel threaded, you need an o-ring, regardless if its copper, brass, ss, nickel-plated, plastic, acetal, etc.
> 
> Many, many years ago, most wc setups were diy w/ many parts commonly found in the plumbing section of your hardware store. Most plumbing is tapered so tape is needed to make the seal. British Standard Pipe Parallel size 1/4 (aka BSPP G1/4) is pretty much the industry standard for pc water cooling threads. So you always need an o-ring to seal. You will find some G3/8 and G1/2 threaded parts, these are just larger sizes but they're rarely used in pc water cooling.


This. There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with a little tape. You just cannot forget that your plexi/acetal parts cannot handle alot of wrenching. Yes O-Rings are good, but NOTHING beats a tight zero tolerance fit between the threads and that is exactly what tape is intended for. Using a little(1 and 1/4-1/2 pass around the threads) is perfectly reasonable. I use it on all my fittings for a completely leak free experience. You can question the logic all you want but you cannot beat the results. Werm is plenty correct in his facts as well.

I will say however that if you're feeling the least bit queezy about using tape, try it in your out of case leak down test and don't use your inner gorilla to tighten up your test loop. This is where the problems usually crop up. Not the initial application but in the actual setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## Q5Grafx

i know the coils are res but is the surrounding area also res? i see the iridescent liquid there so im assuming it is a dual chamber res?


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Q5Grafx*
> 
> i know the coils are res but is the surrounding area also res? i see the iridescent liquid there so im assuming it is a dual chamber res?


The Fusion reservoirs? Basically, FrozenQ takes solid colored acrylic rods and bends them into these spirals.They place these spirals inside a tube or bay reservoir. The liquid/water fills the volume left inside these tube and bay reservoirs. To light up the helix', FrozenQ installs a tube that's sealed inside but goes through the helix (spirals). This is where the ccfl bulb goes in to light up the helix rods.

Most of the reservoirs are dual helix so there's plenty of volume for your liquid to gather in the reservoir chamber. I'm running a quad "spiral" res, it takes up more space but FrozenQ uses a wider tube reservoir for this model. Same build design like the others.

The helix rods come in many different colors. A few of them are fluorescent and the glow under a uv light (included).

Ok gents, I bought a couple of 8" uv lights and fudged them both up (







). Ordered some new ones since I had to place a small order from fcpu.com. This time, I'm going to use my dremel tool to break free the cable end of the ccfl lights. Crossing fingers I don't fudge up these too







.


----------



## Q5Grafx

Really? all this time i thought the helix tubes were just that tubes filled with coolant.


----------



## ProfeZZor X

The thread didn't say which Frozen Q reservoir it had to be in order to join the club, so count me in for my Frozen Q Flex.

http://s176.photobucket.com/user/Profezzor_X/media/PC Build/IMAG1987.jpg.html


----------



## Jakeey802

Was thinking about ordering two Liquid Fusion V Series "2nd Generation" Reservoir but heard that they crack and start leaking.
Is this true? Don't want to spend $240 on reservoirs and they start cracking haha


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakeey802*
> 
> Was thinking about ordering two Liquid Fusion V Series "2nd Generation" Reservoir but heard that they crack and start leaking.
> Is this true? Don't want to spend $240 on reservoirs and they start cracking haha


LOL, that issue is long gone. Basically the guy who owns FrozenQ used to pay a local machining shop to make a lot of their parts. The machine shop went out of business and FrozenQ moved to a new facility and got all their own machines to make their own stuff. There was some issues with their designs that made them overstress when the coolant heated up/condensed.

That was a LONG time ago, they're all set now so I wouldn't worry about it.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hi. Sorry I haven't been on lately. I have been swamped under school work. 16 credit hours atm.


----------



## Jakeey802

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> LOL, that issue is long gone. Basically the guy who owns FrozenQ used to pay a local machining shop to make a lot of their parts. The machine shop went out of business and FrozenQ moved to a new facility and got all their own machines to make their own stuff. There was some issues with their designs that made them overstress when the coolant heated up/condensed.
> 
> That was a LONG time ago, they're all set now so I wouldn't worry about it.


Ah okai, Thanks man


----------



## Mega Man

so i got my res back ! it looks awesome and i love the new mounts, and i put them on backwards.... ( meaning i put them on the bottom where as i want it on the top and middle for best support ( pics later for better explanation ) and ... it broke, i think my middle is oblong not that big of a deal, i am working to buying 2 more mounting brackets sets ( i have horrible luck ) but i cant wait, i think i may have to abandon it in my m8. just not enough room as much as it pains me, i want it visible and i cant do that in the m8 with quadfire, my th10 on the other hand.......


----------



## wermad

Placed an order for a couple of 8" ccfl bulbs and though I thought they oem bulb was 8", it seems more like 6". Still, 8" was a tad bit longer then needed but still covers all the spirals nicely (unlike the old short 6").

Taking off the plastic housing is simple for one side but a pain in the other. i bought a few rotary tool cutting discs ("diamond edge") and that helped slice through carefully through the top end plug. I thought the bulb was also super-glued, but it turns out to be just hot glue and once heat is applied, it starts to melt. The cutting w/ the rotary tool (aka B&D dremel clone) still helped as it was easier to take off the end cap without applying too much heat. Cleaned up the bulb a bit and added a few pieces of velcro to the ends (like FrozenQ) and it went it snug, but it was finally back to it shine!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Placed an order for a couple of 8" ccfl bulbs and though I thought they oem bulb was 8", it seems more like 6". Still, 8" was a tad bit longer then needed but still covers all the spirals nicely (unlike the old short 6").
> 
> Taking off the plastic housing is simple for one side but a pain in the other. i bought a few rotary tool cutting discs ("diamond edge") and that helped slice through carefully through the top end plug. I thought the bulb was also super-glued, but it turns out to be just hot glue and once heat is applied, it starts to melt. The cutting w/ the rotary tool (aka B&D dremel clone) still helped as it was easier to take off the end cap without applying too much heat. Cleaned up the bulb a bit and added a few pieces of velcro to the ends (like FrozenQ) and it went it snug, but it was finally back to it shine!


If your front panel doesn't have a huge "Radiological" placard on it I'm greatly disappointing and you're missing a great opportunity.


----------



## wermad

If I had stuck to 120mm fans, these would have gone nicely w/ the build:





A'las, I went with 140mm







.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If I had stuck to 120mm fans, these would have gone nicely w/ the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A'las, I went with 140mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You should put a translucent black decal of the radiological hazard symbol on one of the corners of the front panel.

That would be wicked. XD


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> If I had stuck to 120mm fans, these would have gone nicely w/ the build:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A'las, I went with 140mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Im just sayin, i could totally cut those out for you to cover a 140mm fan in fluorescent green acrylic. I did it for my case. lol.


----------



## VSG

Hmm that's a tempting offer for many people I bet. Any pictures, Steve?


----------



## Steveo2400

I have a picture! Im going to be adding them to the webshop then, but this the biohazard one i spoke of.


----------



## VSG

Interesting.. I assume you can do this from different colored acrylic? What about different shapes (custom design)? If that TX-10 trade ever happens, I may talk to you about getting a couple of 16 or 18-bay grills similar to what Stren did, except in acrylic and not wood. I was considering that idea and then Stren went ahead and beat me to it


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Im just sayin, i could totally cut those out for you to cover a 140mm fan in fluorescent green acrylic. I did it for my case. lol.


Thanks but I'll have to pass since you won't see most of them due to the panel mesh. In black acrylic for the front rad







. How much would these run for?


----------



## VSG

lol now everyone will have these in the front before I even get the case in my hands


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> I have a picture! Im going to be adding them to the webshop then, but this the biohazard one i spoke of.


Will there be a 480 version for those ones? would love to get my hands on 2 of these







with uv green


----------



## Steveo2400

I can do them in a whole range of colors, and all kinds of custom designs. They would retail for 5.99 for 120's and 7.99 for 140's.


----------



## VSG

Irrespective of design? I assume it has to be compatible with the software you are using on the laser cutter, right?

How would prices scale with each 120/140?


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> I can do them in a whole range of colors, and all kinds of custom designs. They would retail for 5.99 for 120's and 7.99 for 140's.


WAIT, I take your words serious now. Would you be able to make me some 480 ones with uv blue acrylic with the Abstergo sign inside?








































Then I would take 3x 480's and 2x 240's and probably 1x 360

edit: I would totally get them for my incoming desk mod


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Irrespective of design? I assume it has to be compatible with the software you are using on the laser cutter, right?
> 
> How would prices scale with each 120/140?


We have several methods of converting an image into something our laser can use.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> WAIT, I take your words serious now. Would you be able to make me some 480 ones with uv blue acrylic with the Abstergo sign inside?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then I would take 3x 480's and 2x 240's and probably 1x 360
> 
> edit: I would totally get them for my incoming desk mod


Ill get prices up later today for 480's, 360's, and 240's


----------



## Steveo2400

And all of the fan grills are on the webshop. Unfortunately they dont have pictures yet, but as soon as they are ordered i will get pictures up of the radiator grills.


----------



## VSG

The product naming is pretty confusing, can you make it so there are only 2 options on the main accessories page: 1 for 120mm fans and 1 for 140mm fans with each option having its own subset for multiples? Also, I didn't realize you guys had changed the webshop URL either. Can you make it an HTTPS url so that chrome doesn't freak out each time I go there?


----------



## Steveo2400

Sorry, i didnt realize i had keyed in 240 instead of 140. Weve been working on the HTTPS issue for a while, i thought we had solved it. Unfortunately, i cant put subsets that show up if you select say a 120 mm fan. So, the only way to make it consistent and utilize the pricing conventions is a separate page for the Rad grills. Is it easier to understand now that the numbers are right?


----------



## VSG

This is what I see now:



The first link begins from 240mm and has options for 360 and 480 while the 3rd link begins from 280mm and has options for 420 and 560mm. If the 240mm one has options for 360 and 480 why not make it set to 120 and give it options for 240/360/480 and similar with the 140mm sizes? I am assuming it is a trivial issue of course, correct me if wrong.

The prices also seem higher than what you said yesterday.


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Sorry, i didnt realize i had keyed in 240 instead of 140. Weve been working on the HTTPS issue for a while, i thought we had solved it. Unfortunately, i cant put subsets that show up if you select say a 120 mm fan. So, the only way to make it consistent and utilize the pricing conventions is a separate page for the Rad grills. Is it easier to understand now that the numbers are right?


soooo, and what to do if it should be a custom made one?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> soooo, and what to do if it should be a custom made one?


Frozen Q does custom work on specialty reservoirs so I can't imagine they'd turn down a custom fan grill.


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> soooo, and what to do if it should be a custom made one?


Just contact me via a private message on here or through my email at [email protected] to discuss a custom job.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> This is what I see now:
> 
> 
> 
> The first link begins from 240mm and has options for 360 and 480 while the 3rd link begins from 280mm and has options for 420 and 560mm. If the 240mm one has options for 360 and 480 why not make it set to 120 and give it options for 240/360/480 and similar with the 140mm sizes? I am assuming it is a trivial issue of course, correct me if wrong.
> 
> The prices also seem higher than what you said yesterday.


I did not set them up that way because we offer different sizes for individual fan grills. The "Fan Grill" product option offers 80 mm, 92 mm, 120 mm, and 140 mm, and we may add more as they are requested. The prices i quoted can be found in that fan grill product page.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I can see it now!


----------



## ZytheEKS

Steve, what would the possibility be of putting a circular radiological symbol over a 140mm frame on top of some ball bearings so it would spin?


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Steve, what would the possibility be of putting a circular radiological symbol over a 140mm frame on top of some ball bearings so it would spin?


Hmm. Ive got an image in my head. Let me play with that idea for a bit, ill post something up here when i have a design.


----------



## GeraltW

Count me in:thumb:

The only thing (as you probably noticed) I need new cathode (i broke the original one). Now do you know where I can get 8" cathodes in europe ?? I know I can order from frozenq directly but dont want to wait to have it shipped to ireland


----------



## Steveo2400

Also, here is an example i cut for the 360 mm rad grill.


----------



## Danisumi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Frozen Q does custom work on specialty reservoirs so I can't imagine they'd turn down a custom fan grill.


I do know that they do custom work







The question was only where I need to contact him for it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Just contact me via a private message on here or through my email at [email protected] to discuss a custom job.
> I did not set them up that way because we offer different sizes for individual fan grills. The "Fan Grill" product option offers 80 mm, 92 mm, 120 mm, and 140 mm, and we may add more as they are requested. The prices i quoted can be found in that fan grill product page.


Now the only question is if I want a black grill with blue lighnting fans oooorrr if I want a blue UV grill which I can light up, both things will most likely look AWESOME on the side of a desk


----------



## aznever

I am quiet disappointed with FrozenQ and their services. I placed an order for an M1 Ncase Res 3 weeks ago, and after 2 weeks later i recieved a shipping number. A whole week goes by of Pre-Shipment status, I decided to message one of the rep here. He said it was a bad res, so they had to make another one. I finally recieved it this morning, but upon close inspection I found that there are cracks in many spots, and may cause leaks down the road. Having to pay 92$ and the length of wait time, I found that it this is unacceptable. I have already messaged a rep, so I hope this wont get any worse.


----------



## sinnedone

That definitely needs to be replaced if that's how you received it.

That being said, did you try contacting them first before posting?


----------



## darwing

seriously man contact them and they will do their best to help, this is the best small company Ive ever dealt with, I've only had 1 Res from them, but it was amazing dealing with them, now Im asking for a custom order and they are incredible at updates


----------



## Steveo2400

He knows, and he has contacted me. His replacement faceplate just came off the laser.

Also, if you dont follow us on our various social networks, we have Metallic gold and Metallic silver acrylic in stock for helices. Here is an example of something i put together.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> He knows, and he has contacted me. His replacement faceplate just came off the laser.
> 
> Also, if you dont follow us on our various social networks, we have Metallic gold and Metallic silver acrylic in stock for helices. Here is an example of something i put together.


Steve! You did it!! that looks unreal!!!!

No thanks to my custom request on that gold color eh?


----------



## VSG

No way! Why didn't this happen a month ago when I was getting my replacement helical? Any pics of the silver helix, Steve?


----------



## goodtobeking

Yeah would like to see the silver in some different lighting conditions if at all possible. Might be the last straw that makes me upgrade my reservoir to a newer one


----------



## Frozen-Q

We just made a full gold and a full silver helix today. We'll get them in reservoirs tomorrow and Steve will get some pictures up.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> We just made a full gold and a full silver helix today. We'll get them in reservoirs tomorrow and Steve will get some pictures up.


Nice to have "The Man" post in here. Its been a while









Excited to see how they look. Im thinking black end caps with silver helix and a white CCFL, or maybe some RGB LEDs. Oooohhh you got me drooling now


----------



## darwing

I'll take the credit for the gold helix eps they will look great with any color, but unfortunately testing took to long and their powdercoating machine is unable to do the ends anymore, but seriously they work day in and day out for all these custom orders at reasonable pricing. It had to be three years ago I sent Adam a pm, he told me to sign online, next day he said he's working on it and will be shipped that day!

I love this company even though I've only had 1 res but I love their style







keep it up guys


----------



## VSG

Alex, how would the gold and silver ones look with the cathode?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Here's the pictures of just the helix with UV, white, and red cathodes under normal conditions. Friday we are setting up to do all new product pictures for our entire line, so at that time we will do shots of these in full reservoirs, all different types of lights, and different types of fluid in the reservoirs as well.













I'm very interested to see what they do to UV coolant. The UV light really does reflect off the surface a lot.


----------



## darwing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Here's the pictures of just the helix with UV, white, and red cathodes under normal conditions. Friday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've never seen such beauty! there are tears in my eyes!


----------



## goodtobeking

Looking good there. I too would like to see them with UV coolant. Although I will wait patiently for friday


----------



## VSG

Looks great!


----------



## wermad

Those look nice!


----------



## aznever

A little update, I did recieved the replacement faceplate. But upon assembling together my loop, I found that its leaking badly at the bottom, where the multi ports are at. I have sent the vendor a message and requesting a refund, and that I am willing to ship it back @ my expense. It is unfortunately, but I just want something that works at this point.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznever*
> 
> A little update, I did recieved the replacement faceplate. But upon assembling together my loop, I found that its leaking badly at the bottom, where the multi ports are at. I have sent the vendor a message and requesting a refund, and that I am willing to ship it back @ my expense. It is unfortunately, but I just want something that works at this point.


That's gotta be the O-Ring seals on the G 1/4" plugs, not the faceplate. There's just no way a faceplate would cause the plugs to leak unless it had absurd amounts of micro fractures @ the threads.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aznever*
> 
> A little update, I did recieved the replacement faceplate. But upon assembling together my loop, I found that its leaking badly at the bottom, where the multi ports are at. I have sent the vendor a message and requesting a refund, and that I am willing to ship it back @ my expense. It is unfortunately, but I just want something that works at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's gotta be the O-Ring seals on the G 1/4" plugs, not the faceplate. There's just no way a faceplate would cause the plugs to leak unless it had absurd amounts of micro fractures @ the threads.
Click to expand...











i hate when people assume all fittings are compatible. with every thing


----------



## wermad

Those look like the stock oem plugs FrozenQ supplies. If not, then it could be clearance issues. I know the tube reservoirs can easily run into clearance issues causing leaks w/ wide fittings/adapters. I spoke to Alex a long time about this and due to the way milling is done in order to preserve structural integrity, some larger fittings/adapters may have clearance issues.

Also, try a different plug w/ a thicker o-ring. I know some of the oem plugs (from several companies) have a thinner o-ring compared to compression or aftermarket o-rings. I had a bunch of Enzotech o-rings left that I used to replace some of the thinner o-rings on several fittings/adapters.


----------



## aznever

Yeah, those are the stock plugs that came with the Res. I believe the problem is because the holes are so close together, and the plugs are blocking each from being tighten.

Bottom plugs tighten first.


Loose O-Ring from the back side if i tighten the bottom plugs first.



I am not sure why they added the multiple ports, since this res is designed for a case that emphasize on being compact.


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznever*
> 
> Yeah, those are the stock plugs that came with the Res. I believe the problem is because the holes are so close together, and the plugs are blocking each from being tighten.
> 
> Bottom plugs tighten first.
> 
> 
> Loose O-Ring from the back side if i tighten the bottom plugs first.
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure why they added the multiple ports, since this res is designed for a case that emphasize on being compact.


Okay, so i believe i have a solution to your problem. Here is a picture of two fill plugs.


The plug on the left is our standard plug. The plug on the right is a smaller plug we also carry. That smaller plug should solve your problem. I have a set of four sitting here on my desk to send to you. How does that grab you?


----------



## aznever

If that solves the issue then I will give it a try. Thanks.


----------



## bigbangSG

wanted to ask if it possible the mount a pump onto the vertical Reservoir


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> wanted to ask if it possible the mount a pump onto the vertical Reservoir


For a long time I had my D5 mounted to the bottom of my Liquid Fusion reservoir via a male to male threaded adapter. That was all that I had holding it together and I would handle them as one unit putting them in and taking them out. Never had any problems. Just make sure the pump is at the bottom of the reservoir


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> wanted to ask if it possible the mount a pump onto the vertical Reservoir


What goodtobeking said. I saw someone custom order a fQ warp reservoir with a built in pump top but the problem is if you do that then the lighting wires can't go out the bottom so you have to have them come out the top, so you end up with wires coming out both the bottom and top of the res. Not a big deal if you can route them so they're hidden, but just using a male to male adapter seems less troublesome


----------



## aznever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Okay, so i believe i have a solution to your problem. Here is a picture of two fill plugs.
> 
> 
> The plug on the left is our standard plug. The plug on the right is a smaller plug we also carry. That smaller plug should solve your problem. I have a set of four sitting here on my desk to send to you. How does that grab you?


Thanks Steve, for all your help with resolving the issue that i had with the order!


----------



## bigbangSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> For a long time I had my D5 mounted to the bottom of my Liquid Fusion reservoir via a male to male threaded adapter. That was all that I had holding it together and I would handle them as one unit putting them in and taking them out. Never had any problems. Just make sure the pump is at the bottom of the reservoir


is it possble to show me the pic of yr reservoir with teh pump


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> is it possble to show me the pic of yr reservoir with teh pump


This is how i did mine.


----------



## bigbangSG

what top is that?


----------



## Steveo2400

Its our top, the FrozenQ D5 pump top.


----------



## goodtobeking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> is it possble to show me the pic of yr reservoir with teh pump


Here are some old pictures but is what I am talking about. For the last ~year I have been running an MCP35x2 and have it mounted on the backplane of the case(same part the MOBO mounts to) and have a 90 degree fitting to a sli adapter to the pump.




EDIT: and props to Steve for fixing the problem above.


----------



## rustypixel

I'm looking to get either the 160mm or the 250mm V series reservoir. Can anyone tell me how much of the double helix on the 160mm is actually visible? I know that it's about 6" in length but I want to know how many of those inches are the center, clear part. Thanks for any replies.


----------



## darwing

I miss my t-virus









It was three builds ago but it lasted me till I had to sell the beast... Unfortunately the next build they are not going to suit, BUT THE BUILD AFTER THAT!!! Lol


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rustypixel*
> 
> I'm looking to get either the 160mm or the 250mm V series reservoir. Can anyone tell me how much of the double helix on the 160mm is actually visible? I know that it's about 6" in length but I want to know how many of those inches are the center, clear part. Thanks for any replies.


The caps are about 1.7 inches. So that leaves you with approximately 2.6 inches of visible helix. To get a better idea, we have plenty of pictures on the webshop.


----------



## Steveo2400

Apparently my math was off, you can see about 3.2 inches.


----------



## rustypixel

Thanks for the replies, Steveo. I went ahead and got the 250mm as I figured the 150 wouldn't be enough eye candy. I'm sure I'll be OK with that larger. Thanks again.


----------



## iNewbcake

Hi! I'm new.
As a owner of an Ncase M1and someone who likes WC, the search for a res has led me to frozenQ.
I received it last week, and it was missing 2 fill plugs, Steve has responded to my email and is sending me 2 free of charge.








I have thus not leak tested it yet, I saw that some users have had some problems with this res.

However on later inspection, I noticed an indent on the lower right side.
http://i.imgur.com/vLxcRZ0.jpg

My question to Steve and other FrozenQ res owners is if this is within acceptable 'defects' or not.
I personally don't think it is, how would I proceed with this? I don't mind paying return shipping, I just want a perfect res. As this res is sort of the only option for my case.


----------



## Mega Man

Could be I am on mobile. But I don't see it.


----------



## Buzz247

After not having looked at this thread in some time ( and I'll explain why shortly as well as you can find my initial experience further back in the thread), I see I am not the only one to have a "less than satisfying" experience with Frozen Q. My initial custom order was a mess to get done and complete lack of communication. 3-4 weeks from date of pay i was promised, and then multiple reasons why it was not being met, then finally near 10 months later, I get a res that is not right. Center piece was off center, making it look horribly lopsided, brass screw inserts were crammed in so hard I couldn't get a 6/32 even to begin threading, wires for lighting were not long enough for the extended size of the custom order, and given plastic rods (in a separate shipment after the fact mind you) instead of the proper black anodized metal. All this after $230USD.

then the RMA experience - waited 3 weeks to get a response to my OCN message inquiry, and finally get a call from Alex. was asked if I could do with out it for 2-3 weeks. Said fine. Filled out RMA, shipped out at $20 my expense, .... then nothing - just like when I ordered it. Finally get a response " As you can see it did not ship today." Steve says. After a few nasty email explaining how you SHOULD treat a customer, I FINALLY get updates and pics (that I had to demand). NINE weeks after I shipped it out, I finally get a tracking number with the note
"[email protected]
Apr 15

to me
When we give you a time frame and we dont meet that time frame, part of it is because your RMA is put on the back burner. We are two guys in a shop, and we deal with retail orders upwards of 2500 dollars. You get those kind of things done or your retailers become very unhappy."
-this was from Steve.

Really???? back burner??? after all the crap I have put up with? Nonstop excuses, out right lies, promises made and not upheld? Subpar quality for a premium price? Now I know why too - vendor orders eh? Seems like you were busy drumming up more custom business on here and who knows where else to bother to take care of your customers Steve and Alex!

When I finally did get the res, the cap wasn't even on straight and it looked like the center piece was out of place and crooked/broken - I nearly flipped a nut! I fiddled and finally got the cap to seat so it is right and usable. The metal rods were painted black, and had marring where paint was scraped off (had to repaint myself to correct, and contrary to their excuse email, I had NO issue getting the paint to stick, so maybe complete lies and "backburner" is the real reason that part took so long) , the new base they had to make had mounting screw holes misaligned causing the port holes not to sit evenly between the legs (had to dremel out myself to correct).

Moral of the story: look through this thread - you will find I am not the only one to deal with this treatment and behavior. DO NOT give these two a single custom order dime. Unless it is cookie cutter they won't follow through properly, and ignore you when it should really matter, unless you get good n pissed off and blast them - then they might eventually do something to shut you up. I can't speak to their vendor mass produced product, but if it is even remotely like their high priced custom - not worth it. Karma.... it's a real.... In this economy, LAST thing you should be doing as a small business is ticking off a key demographic. Maybe they'll learn, maybe not - if not, enjoy being a has been bankrupt retailer.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> After not having looked at this thread in some time ( and I'll explain why shortly as well as you can find my initial experience further back in the thread), I see I am not the only one to have a "less than satisfying" experience with Frozen Q. My initial custom order was a mess to get done and complete lack of communication. 3-4 weeks from date of pay i was promised, and then multiple reasons why it was not being met, then finally near 10 months later, I get a res that is not right. Center piece was off center, making it look horribly lopsided, brass screw inserts were crammed in so hard I couldn't get a 6/32 even to begin threading, wires for lighting were not long enough for the extended size of the custom order, and given plastic rods (in a separate shipment after the fact mind you) instead of the proper black anodized metal. All this after $230USD.
> 
> then the RMA experience - waited 3 weeks to get a response to my OCN message inquiry, and finally get a call from Alex. was asked if I could do with out it for 2-3 weeks. Said fine. Filled out RMA, shipped out at $20 my expense, .... then nothing - just like when I ordered it. Finally get a response " As you can see it did not ship today." Steve says. After a few nasty email explaining how you SHOULD treat a customer, I FINALLY get updates and pics (that I had to demand). NINE weeks after I shipped it out, I finally get a tracking number with the note
> "[email protected]
> Apr 15
> 
> to me
> When we give you a time frame and we dont meet that time frame, part of it is because your RMA is put on the back burner. We are two guys in a shop, and we deal with retail orders upwards of 2500 dollars. You get those kind of things done or your retailers become very unhappy."
> -this was from Steve.
> 
> Really???? back burner??? after all the crap I have put up with? Nonstop excuses, out right lies, promises made and not upheld? Subpar quality for a premium price? Now I know why too - vendor orders eh? Seems like you were busy drumming up more custom business on here and who knows where else to bother to take care of your customers Steve and Alex!
> 
> When I finally did get the res, the cap wasn't even on straight and it looked like the center piece was out of place and crooked/broken - I nearly flipped a nut! I fiddled and finally got the cap to seat so it is right and usable. The metal rods were painted black, and had marring where paint was scraped off (had to repaint myself to correct, and contrary to their excuse email, I had NO issue getting the paint to stick, so maybe complete lies and "backburner" is the real reason that part took so long) , the new base they had to make had mounting screw holes misaligned causing the port holes not to sit evenly between the legs (had to dremel out myself to correct).
> 
> Moral of the story: look through this thread - you will find I am not the only one to deal with this treatment and behavior. DO NOT give these two a single custom order dime. Unless it is cookie cutter *they won't follow through properly, and ignore you when it should really matter, unless you get good n pissed off and blast them* - then they might eventually do something to shut you up. I can't speak to their vendor mass produced product, but if it is even remotely like their high priced custom - not worth it. Karma.... it's a real.... In this economy, LAST thing you should be doing as a small business is ticking off a key demographic. Maybe they'll learn, maybe not - if not, enjoy being a has been bankrupt retailer.


*I think that part may have been the problem.*

When I got ordered my Cold Fusion waterblock a while back I got email responses to my questions regarding my order within a couple days and they were always very polite. As to the part regarding retail quotas, their entire shop was shut down due to a fire so all the retailers got back ordered on their orders. Take a step back and look at it form their viewpoint. If I owned a shop and a retailer bought a few grand worth of product and an incident at the shop caused me to be unable to meet preset quotas I would definitely do the same thing here. When crap hits the fan everyone gets covered but if you're running a business the future of the business always comes first. Losing a retail reseller of their products would be a HUGE loss, possibly go as far as to cripple a company since we're talking about a small business. One can understand your frustrations but don't go telling everyone their brand is crap. I ordered an aquacomputer R9 290x active backplate around 5 months ago. Due to issues with back orders and the company doing their plating messing up I have yet to get that back plate. Am I really annoyed about that? Of course, I want to get it on so I can get my GPU under water. Am I going to say Aquacomputer is a bad brand because of my annoyance with all this delays and BS? Of course not.


----------



## Buzz247

Did you read the reply I got? If you would like I would be more than happy to also send copies of the email convos. Personnel issues, ordering issues, equipment issues, etc etc etc, Not one mention of a fire actually - would think that would have been the first. Not too mention the timeline I have seen on here of the period during which my RMA ( which was caused by poor initial construction mind you) shows trying to get more business when they were not handling the business they have correctly first. I to acknowledge and even told them, I get things do happen, and I am but one customer (even said that in emails), but the constant flow of excuses and promises undelivered, and the fact that a shoddy product was sent out in the first place.... really? Who's viewpoint is skewed here? Never said their product is crap (notice, I said I cannot speak to their mass produced retail product) but stated that the custom order premium is not worth it in my experience and their handling of the situations was crap.

Ponder this - losing a retailer is such a big deal... what about losing customers and getting a bad rap for subpar premium product (which by the definition should be their best work not worst) and that reputation causing no one to want to do business with them? Then, will retailers even matter???? Think about it - Business Economics 101 here

Here is what I refer to as blasting BTW - more than courteous to be fair and I think you will agree. So no... not the problem
My email to Frozen on April 14th, the 2 month mark since I shipped out:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Requesting an update on RMA. Alex originally told me 2-3 weeks. I understand you were having issue with the paint on the rods. But this is beginning to feel like the original order where i was told 3-4weeks, and turned out to be over 9 weeks, to receive a product done incorrectly needing to be shipped back at my expense.

I want it done correctly as promised at the start, granted. But feeling very back-burnered over here, and wholly unimpressed with your company, communication, and product from the start. I paid $230 (plus 22.50 for a return ship that should not have been needed), well over a normal res due to size and custom order. I realize it is but one order out of many you do. However, this is not how business should be done. It has been 2 weeks since I heard from either of you, and saw a pic of unpainted rods, and a reservoir still not fixed. At the end of the week, it will be 2 months since I sent this to you. My patience and tolerance was stretched on the original order. Now... not pleased whatsoever. I have $7000 of hardware sitting dead and useless, and get excuses, justifications, and promises unfulfilled. I requested on the original order, and re-requested that I wanted Nova style rails for the order, was willing to pay for them, and was not acknowledged once. I would demand at least that in compensation for the ridiculous nature of this process, but I fear it would take 4-6months to get my product back.

I want picture updates that work is actually being done and not shelved, and a FIRM shipdate. I understand things happen and come up. But making quotes/promises and not following thru, and only giving excuses has to stop.



To which I received the reply from Steve about being on the back burner - poor handling of the situation, and not on my end


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Buzz247*
> 
> Did you read the reply I got? If you would like I would be more than happy to also send copies of the email convos. Personnel issues, ordering issues, equipment issues, etc etc etc, Not one mention of a fire actually - would think that would have been the first. Not too mention the timeline I have seen on here of the period during which my RMA ( which was caused by poor initial construction mind you) shows trying to get more business when they were not handling the business they have correctly first. I to acknowledge and even told them, I get things do happen, and I am but one customer (even said that in emails), but the constant flow of excuses and promises undelivered, and the fact that a shoddy product was sent out in the first place.... really? Who's viewpoint is skewed here? Never said their product is crap (notice, I said I cannot speak to their mass produced retail product) but stated that the custom order premium is not worth it in my experience and their handling of the situations was crap.
> 
> Ponder this - losing a retailer is such a big deal... what about losing customers and getting a bad rap for subpar premium product (which by the definition should be their best work not worst) and that reputation causing no one to want to do business with them? Then, will retailers even matter???? Think about it - Business Economics 101 here
> 
> Here is what I refer to as blasting BTW - more than courteous to be fair and I think you will agree. So no... not the problem
> My email to Frozen on April 14th, the 2 month mark since I shipped out:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Requesting an update on RMA. Alex originally told me 2-3 weeks. I understand you were having issue with the paint on the rods. But this is beginning to feel like the original order where i was told 3-4weeks, and turned out to be over 9 weeks, to receive a product done incorrectly needing to be shipped back at my expense.
> 
> I want it done correctly as promised at the start, granted. But feeling very back-burnered over here, and wholly unimpressed with your company, communication, and product from the start. I paid $230 (plus 22.50 for a return ship that should not have been needed), well over a normal res due to size and custom order. I realize it is but one order out of many you do. However, this is not how business should be done. It has been 2 weeks since I heard from either of you, and saw a pic of unpainted rods, and a reservoir still not fixed. At the end of the week, it will be 2 months since I sent this to you. My patience and tolerance was stretched on the original order. Now... not pleased whatsoever. I have $7000 of hardware sitting dead and useless, and get excuses, justifications, and promises unfulfilled. I requested on the original order, and re-requested that I wanted Nova style rails for the order, was willing to pay for them, and was not acknowledged once. I would demand at least that in compensation for the ridiculous nature of this process, but I fear it would take 4-6months to get my product back.
> 
> I want picture updates that work is actually being done and not shelved, and a FIRM shipdate. I understand things happen and come up. But making quotes/promises and not following thru, and only giving excuses has to stop.
> 
> 
> 
> To which I received the reply from Steve about being on the back burner - poor handling of the situation, and not on my end


First and foremost, yes we did drop the ball and I do apologize about that. What ZytheEKS said is true, with the fire and amount of backlogs we had once we finally got open again in February (mind you we'd been closed from the fire since Nov 5th), we we're 4 months behind of our regularly scheduled work. We try and work with people as much as possible to get issues like this resolved, and are still developing better methods to make sure things like this don't happen. However, given the circumstance, yes it did get put on the back burner because of a massive number of issues we had to deal with at the time. If we did not contact you about the delay, again I apologize, and it's a process we're trying to streamline to make custom projects a better experience for the customer.

In regards to the product, as far as I know, we did get everything worked out for you. We provided the metal rods instead of the nylon rods, as well as made the fixes you requested and provided picture documentation through the whole repair process for your approval. I'm not sure what happened in regards to it being misaligned though. We used the same base and bottom cap as the first reservoir. The only thing we did we reinsert the threaded inserts and heat form them in to make them a little looser, as well as make the triangular support frames slightly shorter to accommodate the one aesthetic change you requested. If they became misaligned, they could have been loosened from the bottom, and re-tightened where they needed to be. Before it left I inspected it and to my knowledge it was fine. The marring on the metal rods however, could definitely have just been from packing and wear in transit. We did get them painted and shipped in a very short time frame.


----------



## Buzz247

Steve,
you need to understand that this RMA was no different than the path of the original order. Well aside from the fact I got a much better looking product this time at least. Like I said, if you guys learn from it and actually live up to this stream line idea, great - good on you and hope it works out better from here out. But I assure you, given my experience and the emails - when i got them - you have lost a customer and a promoter of your product. I may be just one. But 1+1+1+1+... see the point?

Yes you sent pics -first one I got was 1 month after receipt. and it was of the rods in but not painted and no other repairs even started. I was told 2-3 weeks total. Just like the initial order. then no responses, being ignored, excuses (at least certainly seemed that way given the lack of information) etc - basically a total lack of communication and transparency.

If it will take 2 months due to being backed up in the shop SAY SO! If something happens you cant meet the deadline promised, give a firm deadline and hit it as well as a clear and concise reason why - this is what ticks people off and causes distrust. That product never should have been sent out the way it wa the first time, and you are aware of that. I accept that it happened, though not happy obviously. The resulting RMA experience is the straw that broke the camel's back. As I said if you guys learn and do things different - good. If not... well... there ya go. But I will not be back as a customer to find out.

edit: the screw holes in the bottom line up directly with the fittings in the bottom cap - can't be turned to adjust.... had to dremel to fit. The wires were not lengthened as requested, the marring was on the inside of the rod and was toward the end where it inserted so definitely happened on install (not to mention the way it was packed,quite well i will say, no way it happened on shipping), and the top cap was not installed fully. And the request for custom nova style rails was NEVER addressed on the initial or on the RMA request. Pull the sheet - this was all listed there. Not to mention on the original order I asked for 4 side ports bottom and 2 side ports top - I got the bottom as requested, but got one port on top, not 2 and not side - I dealt with that


----------



## Tnog

Reading Buzz247's story has compelled me to share my experience.

I ordered 2 end caps and 2 replacement cathode shells for my 2 liquid fusion reservoirs at the beginning of October last year. I've yet to receive them. The first problem I ran into was my paypal payment. For some reason my payment through paypal didn't go through properly and so my order sat in a payment pending status.

In November I sent an email to customer support but never got a response.

In December I decided to email Steve directly. He responded very quickly and after I gave him my paypal transaction id number from my receipt I thought everything was good.

At the end of January I reached out to Steve again, he emailed me back quickly and explained that the caps where done but they had problems with the distributor fro the cathode tubes. He told me once they come in they'd ship my order.

April comes and I send yet another email, Steve responded back asking that I call him directly. By this point in time I had tried to take apart one of my reservoirs to clean it, and as I had done so in the past I broke the cathode shell, this is why I ordered 2 replacement cathode shells since I knew it was likely to happen. I really needed these parts to get back up and running.

I called and left a message. Steve called me back with in a couple hours. He told me that there was a problem, they couldn't cut my caps because you see I have the old threaded style reservoir and they can't make those anymore. To his credit Steve offered a solution, if I sent in my reservoir they'd try and convert it to the newer compression style. Problem was though, I have 2 reservoirs and I ordered one end cap for each so I could have side ports. Well that was a problem, Steve told me they couldn't do both for free, I'd need to pay extra. I felt that I'd waited long enough and didn't like the idea of paying more money. Steve told me he'd ask if it was possible to convert both at no extra charge.

At the end of the day Steve emailed me informing me that in fact they could cut the threaded style caps. I felt that this was good enough and confirmed that they would fulfill my original order. This was six weeks ago, I haven't heard or see anything since. I get that FrozenQ is a small company and that the fire last year created a huge back order. I feel like I too was put on the back burner and then forgotten, which isn't a good way to treat any customer big or small. I've lost all hope that I'll get to use my liquid fusion reservoirs again.

**Edit formatting**


----------



## rustypixel

I know everyone's experience is different but I recently contacted FrozenCPU with regards to a non-functioning cathode for the Fusion reservoir. They in turn had someone from FrozenQ contact me (within a day) and after explaining the situation I was sent a ink to an online RMA form and a new cathode is being shipped. I can respect that others have had issues but during my current build (first one ever) this is the only thing that has gone wrong that I decided to contact a seller for (I did have a bad fan that I decided to just toss cause the return shipping wasn't worth it) and have, thus far, been very satisfied with both communication and resolution from both FrozenCPU and FrozenQ. Good luck to everyone.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Meh, I've seen people have really bad experience with PPCs, I've seen people have really good experience with PPCs. Same goes for FCPU. Same goes for AquaTuning, same goes for Phobya, same goes for Swiftech.

In the end all you can do is shrug and move on. Crap happens.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Meh, I've seen people have really bad experience with PPCs, I've seen people have really good experience with PPCs. Same goes for FCPU. Same goes for AquaTuning, same goes for Phobya, same goes for Swiftech.
> 
> In the end all you can do is shrug and move on. Crap happens.


i waited longer then all of you for some custom work on my limited edition.

with that said i loved the new mounts and would do it again.. did it take forever yes... but a small shop it will. you want big companies .. then go there... ii think acrylic mounts are a bad idea. they just cant take any stress. which is fine,. i have come up with a way to suspend it in mid air..

story short.... tthe guy i quoted is right


----------



## VSG

I have had two acrylic mounts support a 400mm res without any issue for months. As long as you don't crossthread the screw and keep the res straight, there won't be an issue.


----------



## Mega Man

huh? no the warp core mounts, i can not seems to stop breaking them, as i should of said they are just not for me, but after thinking about them i like the way i will be mounting them


----------



## ZytheEKS

Hey Steve, a while back when everyone was talking about fan grills you mentioned you were going to try and make a rotating radiological icon grill. Did you ever make one or did the idea simply not translate into reality?

Just curious.


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? no the warp core mounts, i can not seems to stop breaking them, as i should of said they are just not for me, but after thinking about them i like the way i will be mounting them


Have you seen the redesigned warp core mounts? I cant remember if i showed them too you. They look like this.


As for the rotating fan grill idea, its more than an idea we are throwing around, but less then a prototype. We know how we could make it happen, but havent had the time to try it yet. Trust me, as soon as we have a prototype it will be on here for everyone to take a gander at.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? no the warp core mounts, i can not seems to stop breaking them, as i should of said they are just not for me, but after thinking about them i like the way i will be mounting them
> 
> 
> 
> Have you seen the redesigned warp core mounts? I cant remember if i showed them too you. They look like this.
Click to expand...

yea i liked them, i bought extra as i knew i would snap them... i have one left,

me + acrylic mounts bad idea. me + floating res ( use acrylic tubing to hold res in place, great idea. ) i cram alot into small cases is one of the problems, not the fault of the mounts at all, due to lack of space tubing makes tight turns which snaps these mounts


----------



## mend0k

How do you guys clean the inside of a tube reservoir from frozen q? Can I still do the ol rice with distilled water trick?


----------



## wermad

Break it down?


----------



## Steveo2400

Your going to have to take it apart. We use a soft wet towel. You have to be careful, if its too rough you will scratch the tube.


----------



## Steveo2400

Its been a while, so im going to stir up the pot a little.

Keep an eye out in the next couple weeks for new products. We have a new cylinder reservoir, meteor light reservoir, and dual bay reservoir coming out shortly. Not to mention redesigned cases. Not to give too much away, but aluminum end caps are going to be a thing again.

So lets talk about it. I'll answer any questions i can. I want to talk features, concerns, colors, anything that you guys want to see in a new reservoir.


----------



## VSG

Yay, finally. What's new with the cylinder reservoirs compared to previous gen Liquid Fusion?


----------



## Steveo2400

Well, the first thing is the return of the aluminum end cap. We will have anodized black and brushed aluminum to begin with, and we intend on adding colors as we go. They will slide over the black acetal cap, so they can be changed easily.

The main thing is the return on the threaded tube. We have learned from previous mistakes, purchased all new equipment, and have redesigned all of the threaded components to be consistent and much more reliable. We hope this will make them easier to assemble and disassemble.

Also, side ports are no longer standard. We are going with a much more streamlined design now that angle fittings have come down in price. Side ports can still be done as a custom thing.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Well, the first thing is the return of the aluminum end cap. We will have anodized black and brushed aluminum to begin with, and we intend on adding colors as we go. They will slide over the black acetal cap, so they can be changed easily.
> 
> *The main thing is the return on the threaded tube.* We have learned from previous mistakes, purchased all new equipment, and have redesigned all of the threaded components to be consistent and much more reliable. We hope this will make them easier to assemble and disassemble.
> 
> Also, side ports are no longer standard. We are going with a much more streamlined design now that angle fittings have come down in price. Side ports can still be done as a custom thing.


I was about to say this. Compressions are great if done properly but leave a lot of potential user error. I think this was a good decision. Do you have pictures of the aluminum end caps?

I liked the side ports myself but I understand why they aren't standard anymore. Good to know they will still be an option though. Will it be a totally custom order or will it be like the current situation where you select from a drop down menu how you want to have the end cap ports?


----------



## goodtobeking

Good to hear you guys are constantly working on revising things for the better.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Well, the first thing is the return of the aluminum end cap.


I've been resisting ordering a silver helix but now you're gonna go throwing aluminum end caps around!?! Hnnng...


----------



## Barefooter

Will the brushed aluminum caps be able to be polished? I'd like to polish them to a chrome like finish.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Will the brushed aluminum caps be able to be polished? I'd like to polish them to a chrome like finish.












Yes, please!


----------



## Danisumi

The only thing I would like to have is a that you still have the quad helix, I LOVE my quad dual blue helix and I don't like it when you can see the cathod.
So be sure to keep that in mind







The invisible frosted end caps are a musthave as well

Hope this is a helpful feedback for you guys


----------



## aznpersuazn

Has anyone had experience with FrozenQ's Flex Micro-Res V2? It has an option to attach a D5 pump to the back of it.

I'm looking to replace my EK DCP 4.0 X-Res Pump Reservoir as I'm tight on space.

I emailed Steve and he provided me with a manual, but pictures can only go so far... I've tried to Google for videos demonstrating installation of the V2 res, but searches are coming up empty. Any help is appreciated


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Will the brushed aluminum caps be able to be polished? I'd like to polish them to a chrome like finish.


We intend on making actual chrome end caps. No polishing required.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danisumi*
> 
> The only thing I would like to have is a that you still have the quad helix, I LOVE my quad dual blue helix and I don't like it when you can see the cathod.
> So be sure to keep that in mind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The invisible frosted end caps are a musthave as well
> 
> Hope this is a helpful feedback for you guys


The quads are staying the same. However, the frosted end caps are going away. They are not reliable when holding threads, and we are not willing to risk them leaking. These new reservoirs should eliminate the need for plumbers tape or anything else to make the threads water tight, and we cant guarantee that with the frosted caps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznpersuazn*
> 
> Has anyone had experience with FrozenQ's Flex Micro-Res V2? It has an option to attach a D5 pump to the back of it.
> 
> I'm looking to replace my EK DCP 4.0 X-Res Pump Reservoir as I'm tight on space.
> 
> I emailed Steve and he provided me with a manual, but pictures can only go so far... I've tried to Google for videos demonstrating installation of the V2 res, but searches are coming up empty. Any help is appreciated


To be honest, im not even sure we have sold more than ten of those yet. We havent made a big deal with them. I plan on getting videos out of all of the new products, so i will add the flex tank to that list.


----------



## aznpersuazn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> To be honest, im not even sure we have sold more than ten of those yet. We havent made a big deal with them. I plan on getting videos out of all of the new products, so i will add the flex tank to that list.


Thanks, Steve! I'll be waiting until this Holiday Season to purchase replacement parts, i.e. compression fittings, norprene tubing, Micro-Res.


----------



## VSG

I can't wait for pictures/videos of the new products, any proposed date in mind for availability?

Good luck with everything


----------



## Varsis

I know, I'm chopping on the bit to get a new res setup for a box i'm about to put together, holding off to see the new product. I need to order something soon! Really do like the look of that flex res though. Just curious how the pump attaches to it. Don't see the typical threading.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Here's a little treat for your Tuesday afternoon. More details and pictures to come.


----------



## VSG

That's the new meteor res, Alex? Looks great. I can see where the new chrome and aluminum end caps would slide on the end caps too.

Is it the lighting or do I see a long mounting plate behind the res? What are those clip-like things in the middle? If they can be removed to have a continuous reservoir lit up, it would look nice.

Edit: NVM, I see the "fins" all around the cylinder, I mistook one such thing for the mounting plate.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> That's the new meteor res, Alex? Looks great. I can see where the new chrome and aluminum end caps would slide on the end caps too.
> 
> Edit: Is it the lighting or do I see a long mounting plate behind the res? What are those clip-like things in the middle? If they can be removed to have a continuous reservoir lit up, it would look nice.


Yes it is, we'll release pricing and specs soon. I can say though that it will be available in green, orange and red as well.

This won't have the option for chrome and aluminum end caps though. Our way of doing that on the new line of cylinder reservoirs will be a little different. I'll be finishing up the prototypes of those today and should have some pictures up this evening.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I mistook the extruding parts for mounting plates and hooks for the end caps. Once I realized what they were I can see there is no way to slide on the end caps as Steve alluded to.

Can I request white as a possible color as well? I see a lot of people going with white lighting in their builds now and it would look good in a black case like mine


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Ya, I mistook the extruding parts for mounting plates and hooks for the end caps. Once I realized what they were I can see there is no way to slide on the end caps as Steve alluded to.
> 
> Can I request white as a possible color as well? I see a lot of people going with white lighting in their builds now and it would look good in a black case like mine


Well, blue, green, red, and orange are going to be the stock colors offered. However, through our website we will take custom orders as always. So we can definitely do one with white accent rails and a white cathode.


----------



## VSG

Works for me! Pretty excited to see the new liquid fusion reservoirs now.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Here are some more pictures of the new res.













Shown here with UV blue coolant.


----------



## VSG

Are the accent rails UV active?

I assume that's the "FrozenQ Essentials Coolant - UV Blue" in there?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Are the accent rails UV active?
> 
> I assume that's the "FrozenQ Essentials Coolant - UV Blue" in there?


The rails on the green version will be UV reactive. The blue and red will not. The blue used here is technically Fluorescent Blue, but over the past 3 years it's been impossible to actually find UV blue sheet that actually fluoresces.

Correct, Essentials Coolant blue is in there.

Fixed the pictures too.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Now for the post I know a lot of you have been waiting to see, the new LF Reaction Series. Essentially we've taken feedback from the past years, and overhauled our equipment to bring you the best quality reservoir to date.



The reservoir features the same style and shape as before, but brings back the aluminum caps as a standard option. These aluminum caps will be available in black anodized and brushed at first, but more colors will be released in August.



The reservoir features 2 bottom facing ports and 1 top facing port. An optional side port cap will be available separately, having 2 bottom facing ports and 2 side ports extending beyond the base of the bottom aluminum ring.



We've brought back the double thick walled aluminum rings.



No issues lining up the aluminum rings anymore. They slide right on the acetal cap from the ends, seat into place on the groove, and can be secured with the set screw. Some people may find the set screw unnecessary as the caps stay on without them, but it's included anyway for added security.



This stems from a big overhaul of our equipment. The tubes are machined on the ends to a polished finish, and given much stronger threads than we had in the past. Gone is the compression design that left some people unsure about the seals and safety of our products. Note: This is shown with the tube unscrewed a bit. The threads are completely captive and are not visible once assembled.

One last change, is that the helix now locks in place with a small groove on the inside of the cap. The helix can no longer rotate and block the surface ports.

Overall they'll be available in the same sizes and helix color options as before.


----------



## VSG

The fluorescent red and blue helices I have from you guys were pretty UV active in that they really did fluoresce when the UV cathode was on. Or was it all an optical illusion?









Edit: Those new LF reservoirs









Alex, any thoughts on using acrylic instead of plexi for the cylinder itself? Also, will having the compression threads on the outside be an issue? I recall a company rep saying inner threading was better for reservoirs but I could be mistaken.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> The fluorescent red and blue helices I have from you guys were pretty UV active in that they really did fluoresce when the UV cathode was on. Or was it all an optical illusion?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Those new LF reservoirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alex, any thoughts on using acrylic instead of plexi for the cylinder itself? Also, will having the compression threads on the outside be an issue? I recall a company rep saying inner threading was better for reservoirs but I could be mistaken.


The UV blue rod we get is very reactive, it's the sheet that's a problem.

I try to avoid using acrylic (plexi is actually acrylic, just a brand name). It's way too prone to cracking from my experience. Polycarbonate with a good annealing cycle has extremely good crazing and impact resistance.

I can't see internal or external threading having any benefit over the other. Both draw the tube in one direction and press the end of the tube flat against an o-ring. External threads on the tube just means you can hide them so it's more aesthetically pleasing. In my opinion, the external threading should be better, as the coolant won't come into contact with the threads, which can have weak points on a molecular level from the machining process which accelerates crazing. Like I said though, we send everything through a long annealing cycle to prevent that either way.


----------



## VSG

I meant glass like in the XSPC Photon or Aquacomputer Aqualis, sorry about that. Thanks for the notes on the other stuff.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I meant glass like in the XSPC Photon or Aquacomputer Aqualis, sorry about that. Thanks for the notes on the other stuff.


We looked into borosilicate glass as an option, which is I believe what they use, but I've heard a lot about the glass being prone to chipping. That and due to the cost it would have brought up the price of the reservoirs by a significant amount.


----------



## VSG

Ya, they use borosilicate glass. It isn't _that_ fragile, but I can't say the same when threading comes in. Cost does rise up big.


----------



## Varsis

Inside threading puts pressure from the inside out when tightening end caps. This is generally considered a bad idea since the pressure is pushing on the weak under side of the arch.
Threading from the outside when tightened pushes the tube inward on the strong side of the arch, this helps to alleviate cracking and the like. This as stated also helps keep the liquid out of the cut portions of material which is win win in my opinion.

Now post the LF reservoirs on the side with the side port caps. I need to order one NOW! heh.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varsis*
> 
> Inside threading puts pressure from the inside out when tightening end caps. This is generally considered a bad idea since the pressure is pushing on the weak under side of the arch.
> Threading from the outside when tightened pushes the tube inward on the strong side of the arch, this helps to alleviate cracking and the like. This as stated also helps keep the liquid out of the cut portions of material which is win win in my opinion.
> 
> Now post the LF reservoirs on the side with the side port caps. I need to order one NOW! heh.


I'm planning on getting the prototype of the side port module done tomorrow. Will post an update once finished.


----------



## Mega Man

thanks alot alex, good to see you posting again. finding it hard to get my res in a spot i like. may have to order a bunch soon


----------



## mend0k

Will those new reservoirs come in red and chrome as well?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mend0k*
> 
> Will those new reservoirs come in red and chrome as well?


For the aluminum rings, only brushed and black brushed will be available right up front. We'll be releasing, red, blue, green, orange, smoked, chrome, and gold down the road.

If you were asking about the helix, red and silver are both still options.


----------



## Steveo2400

He forgot purple. We will be releasing purple too. Because purple is awesome.


----------



## VSG

lol I know a few OCNers who will love you for that. Let us know when these are going to be available to order.

Will the older models be EOL now? What about parts for owners of the older models?

BTW did the insurance from the fire kick in finally? I know first hand how much of a pain that can be.


----------



## pdasterly

picked up a used t-virus unit, does anyone have manual for install?


----------



## VSG

Installation depends on your parts but there is no specific manual or printed instructions.

That reminds me, I will likely put up my current FrozenQ gear in the marketplace also.


----------



## pdasterly

t-virus rez and koolance pmp-400


----------



## VSG

Sorry for the confusion, I thought you had the res itself in parts. If it is already assembled, then best way to connect it to the pump would be a male-male adapter.

If the res got to you disassembled then depending on what kind of caps you have and the style of the cathode tube, things are a bit different in assembling them. Best to email Steve or Alex if unsure or post pics of the parts in here.


----------



## pdasterly

pump has in and out on face and top
rez has port on each end and two on the side
I have two 240 radiators, cpu block and two gpu blocks


----------



## VSG

I would hook up the port at the bottom end with one of the inlets on the pump via fittings. You can then use any of the remaining ports as return.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> lol I know a few OCNers who will love you for that. Let us know when these are going to be available to order.
> 
> Will the older models be EOL now? What about parts for owners of the older models?
> 
> BTW did the insurance from the fire kick in finally? I know first hand how much of a pain that can be.


Will do.

Yes, the old models will be EOL as of August 1st. We will still provide full warranty support on old models provided they are under warranty of course. Parts for the old reservoirs will still be available on our webshop.

Yeah, it was a huge pain, but after about 5 months everything was finally sorted out.


----------



## VSG

So will the prices be the same as with the older models? Good to hear that the insurance company came through finally!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So will the prices be the same as with the older models? Good to hear that the insurance company came through finally!


Pricing will be slightly higher (+$5-$10) due to the incorporation of the anodized aluminum caps being standard. They definitely make the reservoir as a whole look nicer and definitely feel nicer, but they take quite a bit of time and money to make.


----------



## VSG

Ya, I can see that. Thanks for the info.

I sent Steve an email about these, hoping to get these in my build









Edit: FrozenQ sponsorship confirmed


----------



## Varsis

Don't see the sideports as an option on the order form. Did i miss something?


----------



## VSG

The new end caps are designed to have the aluminum slide on cap covers. So that blocks any side port by default. You can still order them as a custom part.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varsis*
> 
> Don't see the sideports as an option on the order form. Did i miss something?


A side port module will be available to order along with the reservoir. We will have that up in a day or two.


----------



## Varsis

restating whats previously been said isn't of much use to me. Sorry Geggeg.

The side ported caps aren't shown as an option on the res and I don't see the new caps with side ports listed yet as an accessory part.
Nor do I see the post with pictures of the prototype sideport modules Frozen-Q said he'd post a few days back.

So I was asking the question in hopes of getting some updated info from the horses mouth.

Edit. Thank you Frozen-Q, pics?


----------



## VSG

No worries man, I just said that in case you had missed the previous post on it









I am looking forward to side ports also, they come in pretty handy if you would rather not use angled adapters.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varsis*
> 
> restating whats previously been said isn't of much use to me. Sorry Geggeg.
> 
> The side ported caps aren't shown as an option on the res and I don't see the new caps with side ports listed yet as an accessory part.
> Nor do I see the post with pictures of the prototype sideport modules Frozen-Q said he'd post a few days back.
> 
> So I was asking the question in hopes of getting some updated info from the horses mouth.
> 
> Edit. Thank you Frozen-Q, pics?


Hopefully in the next few days. I'm out of town until next Wednesday. I finished up a few samples of the SP module for the exception of drilling in the ports themselves. I'll see I can coordinate with Steve to get them drilled and get some pictures up.


----------



## goodtobeking

Sounds great


----------



## Varsis

any updated pics yet?


----------



## Steveo2400

I dont have any updates on the reservoirs, but i do have a case badge and car decals. If you're interested.


----------



## VSG

Are mine in the mail?


----------



## Varsis

sniffle. only thing holding me back is shots of that side port adapter for the new res. that hinges my whole decision cause i'm going to need to stand it straight up on end.


----------



## bigbangSG

may i ask wht is SP Adapter?


----------



## VSG

Side port adapter. The new reservoirs don't have side ports as standard.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varsis*
> 
> sniffle. only thing holding me back is shots of that side port adapter for the new res. that hinges my whole decision cause i'm going to need to stand it straight up on end.


Don't cry! I'll be back home tomorrow evening, probably around 8PM. That's the first thing I'm going to do when I get in the door. Get them drilled and get the pictures up.


----------



## Frozen-Q

So my day of travel isn't going quite well, everything is delayed. I'll have to get that SP adapter finished up and photographed first thing in the morning. Sorry guys!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Done! Turned out quite nice. The big benefit from doing this, is it enables us to make all sorts of adapters like this, including ones to mount a pump directly to the bottom.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Done! Turned out quite nice. The big benefit from doing this, is it enables us to make all sorts of adapters like this, including ones to mount a pump directly to the bottom.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How does this work? Is it an attachment via male-male fittings?

I would love to see adapters to directly mount pumps to the reservoirs but it would be hard to account for all the various tops with different port layouts.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> How does this work? Is it an attachment via male-male fittings?
> 
> I would love to see adapters to directly mount pumps to the reservoirs but it would be hard to account for all the various tops with different port layouts.
> Sales should be via the marketplace here, sorry man!


No, it actually just replaces the bottom cap entirely.

I'm planning on just doing a D5 and a DDC version, but unfortunately I don't have any sort of ETA on that. Probably a few months out.


----------



## VSG

Got it, thanks.


----------



## Varsis

Will the plugs on the bottom sit flush or protrude a little if one wanted to stand it straight up on its base? can the SP be made with no bottom ports and a small channel for the cathode wire?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varsis*
> 
> Will the plugs on the bottom sit flush or protrude a little if one wanted to stand it straight up on its base? can the SP be made with no bottom ports and a small channel for the cathode wire?


Due to the ports having to be spaced out on the bottom to accommodate for the cathode, they are just surface ports. So the plugs will stick out. We ship with fill plugs at are only 1/8" tall though. So if you wanted to rest the reservoir on them it wouldn't be an issue.

As always, we accept customization requests. So doing it without the bottom ports and a small channel is something we could definitely do for you.


----------



## Varsis

whats the total height now top to bottom with the SP adapter in?

time to get a custom order in then i guess. no bottom ports small channel for cathode wire so i can stand it on end.

Its going into the front window space of an S8 caselabs case.

Unless you guys got a better idea. haha


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varsis*
> 
> whats the total height now top to bottom with the SP adapter in?
> 
> time to get a custom order in then i guess. no bottom ports small channel for cathode wire so i can stand it on end.
> 
> Its going into the front window space of an S8 caselabs case.
> 
> Unless you guys got a better idea. haha


10.84" Or 275.4mm


----------



## VSG

Hey Alex, I noticed the side port adapter in the store now (http://www.frozenqshop.com/side-port-adapter-for-lf-reaction-series/) and it says it comes with a longer light tube. Where does one specify what size of light tube they had originally?


----------



## Steveo2400

If the side port is bought separately, it comes with one of every size light tube to eliminate the need to specify a reservoir size. If it is purchased with the reservoir, we put the right size in during assembly.


----------



## VSG

Ok, thanks.


----------



## Varsis

How far out till we start to see these beauties ship?


----------



## Steveo2400

They should start to go out at starting thursday.


----------



## BaK2BaK

Ncase M1 FrozenQ res:

With the version 2 of the case being shipped right now, do you know if a new batch of the FrozenQ reservoir will be entering production? If so, will its quality be improved?
I've read several users feedback stating the res is chipped or even leaks, which still holds me from ordering it.
Any news will be welcomed, sorry if it is the wrong place to ask...


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaK2BaK*
> 
> Ncase M1 FrozenQ res:
> 
> With the version 2 of the case being shipped right now, do you know if a new batch of the FrozenQ reservoir will be entering production? If so, will its quality be improved?
> I've read several users feedback stating the res is chipped or even leaks, which still holds me from ordering it.
> Any news will be welcomed, sorry if it is the wrong place to ask...


We have made quite a few changes to improve them. These changes we're introduced in the last batch. (We only run about 12 at a time).

Below are the changes:

- Flat counter bore for the screw holes to prevent pressure from cracking out sides of face plate
- Consistent type of shallow fill plugs, we had an issue where some were too long causing them to conflict on the bottom and not seal properly
- Custom o-rings sized more appropriately for a better seal on the face plate
- Internal machining done using a better type of end mill which has been leaving a much smoother finish.


----------



## bigbangSG

Sad still w8ing for the new res to be ship to me pre-order it on 29 july


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigbangSG*
> 
> Sad still w8ing for the new res to be ship to me pre-order it on 29 july


I just picked up all the aluminum caps from the plating company this morning. Orders are starting to ship today.


----------



## BaK2BaK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> We have made quite a few changes to improve them. These changes we're introduced in the last batch. (We only run about 12 at a time).
> 
> Below are the changes:
> 
> - Flat counter bore for the screw holes to prevent pressure from cracking out sides of face plate
> - Consistent type of shallow fill plugs, we had an issue where some were too long causing them to conflict on the bottom and not seal properly
> - Custom o-rings sized more appropriately for a better seal on the face plate
> - Internal machining done using a better type of end mill which has been leaving a much smoother finish.


Cool, thx for your answer and for the good news!
Will any order from now be picked in the last batch?
If so I will be glad to share the info in the M1 main thread at [H], with your agreement of course.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaK2BaK*
> 
> Cool, thx for your answer and for the good news!
> Will any order from now be picked in the last batch?
> If so I will be glad to share the info in the M1 main thread at [H], with your agreement of course.


All orders come from the new batches. Like I said, we do them in runs of 12. The last few runs have been the revised type. Any orders placed here on out definitely will be.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Also yes, you may share the news with them!


----------



## Varsis

Can't wait for my order to ship. Sideports, hope that doesn't delay the order. I have a whole build waiting on this reservoir.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Varsis*
> 
> Can't wait for my order to ship. Sideports, hope that doesn't delay the order. I have a whole build waiting on this reservoir.


Still should ship this week. I have two of the side ports adapters already made, and I think you were the first order so you'll probably get one of those. If not, we have 75 more going on the machines Wednesday.


----------



## BaK2BaK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> All orders come from the new batches. Like I said, we do them in runs of 12. The last few runs have been the revised type. Any orders placed here on out definitely will be.


Great!


----------



## dnoiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Still should ship this week. I have two of the side ports adapters already made, and I think you were the first order so you'll probably get one of those. If not, we have 75 more going on the machines Wednesday.


First hello all ! New to this forum, but joined as a NCASE M1V2 owner and interested in the custom res.

When I order the FrozenQ res for the M1 case, do I need to order anything additionally? Thanks for any reaction!
Also I'm from EU, do I need to account for import taxes? Anyone experienced?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dnoiz*
> 
> First hello all ! New to this forum, but joined as a NCASE M1V2 owner and interested in the custom res.
> 
> When I order the FrozenQ res for the M1 case, do I need to order anything additionally? Thanks for any reaction!
> Also I'm from EU, do I need to account for import taxes? Anyone experienced?


Besides fittings, it includes everything you need. The reservoir, 6 fill plugs and the mounting screws.

Depending on where you live, yes, you may have to pay import taxes.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Here's a quick shot of the reservoir with black anodized caps.



And here is a little treat for those who might be interested.


----------



## VSG

Is this an option to get designs on the end caps now?


----------



## goodtobeking

How are the designs done, if I may ask. Are they apart of the anodizing, not to sure of how its done.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Is this an option to get designs on the end caps now?


They'll be available for purchase as an accessory only. This is just a sample pair though. It will probably be a month or so until they would be available.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goodtobeking*
> 
> How are the designs done, if I may ask. Are they apart of the anodizing, not to sure of how its done.


It's a special process that a local anodizing company offers. It is a part of the anodizing though. Seems like they bake a printed sheet of sorts on the surface, and then clear anodize it to make it become a permanent part of the anodized layer.


----------



## VSG

Are custom designs/colors possible or is it set to that one design?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Are custom designs/colors possible or is it set to that one design?


Colors will be possible, but the design will be fixed.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Colors will be possible, but the design will be fixed.


Works for me. I have a personal attachment to the graphene/hexagon structure in the design and a possibility of colors would be sweet. Any limitations color wise? Can this be also done with the chrome finish caps?


----------



## Frozen-Q

I'm probably just going to have them done in green, red, and blue. I have to see how flexible I can get with other changes. It's a $400 minimum with the company per design, and quite possibly per color.

No on the chrome, however if the ring was bare polished aluminum it would work.


----------



## VSG

How would the bare polished aluminum look compared to the chrome? I think the colors would come out better on the chrome/bare aluminum caps personally.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Problem is as far as I know you can't anodize on chrome. I could be wrong though. I'll ask the guy tomorrow.


----------



## VSG

You are probably right there. I haven't heard of Chrome anodizing myself but it is always nice to get a confirmation.

Assuming that chrome anodizing is a no go, is it possible to get a comparison between the chrome caps and the polished bare aluminum caps? That would be great.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> You are probably right there. I haven't heard of Chrome anodizing myself but it is always nice to get a confirmation.
> 
> Assuming that chrome anodizing is a no go, is it possible to get a comparison between the chrome caps and the polished bare aluminum caps? That would be great.


Well, we'd have to send out caps to be chromed and/or polished first. Which we have plans for, but it won't be for probably 3-4 weeks.


----------



## bigbangSG

Is the new res being delay again?


----------



## Steveo2400

They have started to ship today.


----------



## Friction

Just purchased my first ever reservoir - a LF Reaction Dual Bay Reservoir in White to go with my Corsair Air 540 White case. Both Helix will be black.


----------



## Direct_A

Good Afternoon Gentlemen!

I am considering purchasing the LF Reaction Dual Bay Reservoir, but I am a little confused about the setup of it.

Mainly due to this image:



How does one attach a pump to the reservoir here; mainly, whats the difference between inlet and pump? Is there an adapter I am missing in this photo?

I would of thought it went Motor -> Inlet -> Reservoir ->Outlet -> System -> Motor. But, then what would be the point of the Pump spot?

I guess to simplify my question: someone have a picture of their bay reservoir already installed so that I may take a peak on how to set it up? Or if someone just has instructions that would be peachy.

I'm just trying to get a cart ready for the things I need to buy


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> Good Afternoon Gentlemen!
> 
> I am considering purchasing the LF Reaction Dual Bay Reservoir, but I am a little confused about the setup of it.
> 
> Mainly due to this image:
> 
> 
> 
> How does one attach a pump to the reservoir here; mainly, whats the difference between inlet and pump? Is there an adapter I am missing in this photo?
> 
> I would of thought it went Motor -> Inlet -> Reservoir ->Outlet -> System -> Motor. But, then what would be the point of the Pump spot?
> 
> I guess to simplify my question: someone have a picture of their bay reservoir already installed so that I may take a peak on how to set it up? Or if someone just has instructions that would be peachy.
> 
> I'm just trying to get a cart ready for the things I need to buy


We do have to update this image, as there are now an additional 4 holes on that back plate you see, for attaching the pump mount adapter to. The pump mount adapter is purchased separately. The reason for this is so that we can offer pump mounts for different types of pumps giving more flexibility.

With the new pump adapter (to be unveiled soon, but it is up for order on our website for those that are already placing custom orders for bay reservoirs), you attach the pump adapter to the back of the reservoir, using 4 black socket screws, and then attach the pump to the bracket using the included retention plate.

We've taken some feedback from everyone, and have made it a bit easier to install, used nicer black socket screws instead of silver phillips head screws, and gotten rid of the pesky threaded brass inserts that sometimes pulled out of the back of the reservoirs.

If you have any other questions feel free to ask!


----------



## VSG

Got the CPU today, once I line up the x99 motherboard 2 of those new reservoirs are going to be all mine. Can't wait!

Alex- did you get word from your guy about the hexagon logo/colors on the chrome/polished bare aluminum caps?


----------



## Direct_A

well that's neat!

However, that only raises an additional question; all involving the actual installation of it all.

Does the pump adapter also cover the inlet? or does the pump adapter only go over the pump area; in which case my question from my original post still remains unanswered.

How does the entire set up look like? does the inlet get unused if the pump/pump adapter are used instead? is there any fittings that need to exist to connect the adapter to the pump?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> well that's neat!
> 
> However, that only raises an additional question; all involving the actual installation of it all.
> 
> Does the pump adapter also cover the inlet? or does the pump adapter only go over the pump area; in which case my question from my original post still remains unanswered.
> 
> How does the entire set up look like? does the inlet get unused if the pump/pump adapter are used instead? is there any fittings that need to exist to connect the adapter to the pump?


The pump mount block only covers that center port. However, instead of using the outlet port on the reservoir, you would then use the outlet port on the pump block. The reservoir when used without a pump comes with a fill plug in that center hole where it's labelled pump, so when you install the pump block you would just move the fill plug to the "outlet" hole on the bay reservoir itself. Or you could always use that port for a fill/bleed line if needed.

It won't take any additional fittings though. You just need one fitting to go in the inlet part of the bay reservoir, and one fitting on the outlet portion of the pump mount, which most people will want to use a 45 or a 90 for.


----------



## Drakenxile

I might be an idiot but how would i be connecting the pump to the tube i'm planning on getting one and i see everyone have the pump underneath the tube si there an adapter or something im not seeing?

Or does the FrozenQ ones not have that option. I'm planing on getting a Green/Black Parvum Build going and would like some details before i get the 160mm tube.


----------



## Varsis

Hey guys, Got my res toward the end of last week. Everything looks great. Here it is installed.


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drakenxile*
> 
> I might be an idiot but how would i be connecting the pump to the tube i'm planning on getting one and i see everyone have the pump underneath the tube si there an adapter or something im not seeing?
> 
> Or does the FrozenQ ones not have that option. I'm planing on getting a Green/Black Parvum Build going and would like some details before i get the 160mm tube.


Our cylinder reservoirs do not have an adapter to mount a pump directly to it yet. Any pictures you see are most likely just a short tube connection with regular fittings. The bay reservoirs have pump mounts to connect a pump directly to them.


----------



## Drakenxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Our cylinder reservoirs do not have an adapter to mount a pump directly to it yet. Any pictures you see are most likely just a short tube connection with regular fittings. The bay reservoirs have pump mounts to connect a pump directly to them.


Thanks steveo i have a bay res. It looks like ima need a tiny connector or just do something crazy


----------



## xxsashixx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Our cylinder reservoirs do not have an adapter to mount a pump directly to it yet. Any pictures you see are most likely just a short tube connection with regular fittings. The bay reservoirs have pump mounts to connect a pump directly to them.


Hi Steve

I'm still waiting on my order to ship... I'm sure you're really busy however it is mid week and I was told that my order would ship last week or "early" this week

Order #887


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxsashixx*
> 
> Hi Steve
> 
> I'm still waiting on my order to ship... I'm sure you're really busy however it is mid week and I was told that my order would ship last week or "early" this week
> 
> Order #887


Check your email, you should have received a tracking notice.


----------



## lanemiller

WOOO just ordered my res/with an extra white cathode, and the high clearance mounts







I'm super excited to mount it up and finish up this overdue project!

Any ideas of turn around times? #936 & 937


----------



## kush621

HI Steve,

What is the usual lead time on the res'? I placed an order about 3 weeks ago and my status has changed from "awaiting fulfillment"

order#900

thanks.


----------



## Steveo2400

Sorry guys, i havent had much time to update people. Our latest shipment of polycarbonate for the main tube came in scratched up. We are getting it resolved, but we are a little short on the material. Ill keep everyone updated when we get new tube in.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drakenxile*
> 
> I might be an idiot but how would i be connecting the pump to the tube i'm planning on getting one and i see everyone have the pump underneath the tube si there an adapter or something im not seeing?
> 
> Or does the FrozenQ ones not have that option. I'm planing on getting a Green/Black Parvum Build going and would like some details before i get the 160mm tube.


Frozen Q doesn't yet have a pump for their Cylindrical units.

I used a male/male connector to connect mine to my EK DDC v2 and it works like a champ. I'm guessing that eventually they will make something but ftm, you'll have to cobble something together. My v2 will accept(with modification) an EK Res but theirs were simply too boring for me.









~Ceadder


----------



## enrell

Is DD dead?


----------



## Mega Man

has been

there were some rumors of a rebirth via different people, but i have not seen anything come out of it


----------



## Ceadderman

I've noticed that DD is up and running in limited operations.

~Ceadder


----------



## Steveo2400

New tube is coming in by thursday at the latest.


----------



## VSG

Great timing, I am pretty much set to order as well. Did you guys get the custom hexagon end caps for the LF Reaction reservoirs as well?


----------



## D0U8L3M

Any way id be able to "trade in" my current bay res at all? The threaded inserts are all useless on mine (i have the pump mount on it) so i have to use a crappy temp acrylic res for the time being. I really dont wanna spend another 100+ on a res to have it fail again =/


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *D0U8L3M*
> 
> Any way id be able to "trade in" my current bay res at all? The threaded inserts are all useless on mine (i have the pump mount on it) so i have to use a crappy temp acrylic res for the time being. I really dont wanna spend another 100+ on a res to have it fail again =/


PM me for possible RMA information. With that said, the LF Reaction bay reservoir no longer uses brass inserts, so pump mounting is no longer an issue.


----------



## lanemiller

Any updates on when the res's are going to be shipped out? :/


----------



## Steveo2400

The shipping has already begun. We are starting with the oldest ones first.


----------



## VSG

Steve, any thoughts on this quoted post below? Also was Alex able to confirm if anodizing the end caps in different colors/patterns was a possibility? I will probably place the order in a couple of days so wanted to be sure. Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Great timing, I am pretty much set to order as well. Did you guys get the custom hexagon end caps for the LF Reaction reservoirs as well?


----------



## Steveo2400

Oh yeah, i saw that. We plan on releasing those caps as a limited edition accessory, but its something thats going to happen when we are not nearly as busy as we have been since the introduction of LF Reaction line. All of our aluminum rings are machined to go on standard reservoirs, we do not have enough of a surplus to do the colors yet. Its both a good thing and a bad thing.

With that said, id like to hear some feedback on the LF Reaction series. Have any of you bought them and used them? Have you had any issues?


----------



## VSG

Well that's a good problem to have


----------



## VSG

I think I am going to go with 2 of these, except with white rails.


----------



## Mega Man

ditto at least 1 i just have to wait till i get the quote for custom res


----------



## Ceadderman

Put another port on the opposite end an I might just get one of those. Would be awesome with the spiraled cores too.









~Ceadder


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Put another port on the opposite end an I might just get one of those. Would be awesome with the spiraled cores too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If you want another port, all you have to do is ask when you order.


----------



## Steveo2400

For anyone who doesnt follow us in social media (you really should, by the way), the laser is down until next week.

Also, check our social media for a special halloween promotion.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Put another port on the opposite end an I might just get one of those. Would be awesome with the spiraled cores too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want another port, all you have to do is ask when you order.
Click to expand...

Kool. Unfortunately I would not be able to do that Ginormous reservoir unless I mount it to the exterior of my 932. Just measured the back where I will be putting my T res and it would be next to improbable with the hardline that I am currently going to. Got everything except for my mounts and a few odds'n'ends. That Res is pretty smancy though. Maybe if I go to a larger case, I will choose that. Want to finish the current plan though.









~Ceadder


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kool. Unfortunately I would not be able to do that Ginormous reservoir unless I mount it to the exterior of my 932. Just measured the back where I will be putting my T res and it would be next to improbable with the hardline that I am currently going to. Got everything except for my mounts and a few odds'n'ends. That Res is pretty smancy though. Maybe if I go to a larger case, I will choose that. Want to finish the current plan though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Its not just that reservoir we can add extra ports too. We can do it for a LF Reaction as well.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Kool. Unfortunately I would not be able to do that Ginormous reservoir unless I mount it to the exterior of my 932. Just measured the back where I will be putting my T res and it would be next to improbable with the hardline that I am currently going to. Got everything except for my mounts and a few odds'n'ends. That Res is pretty smancy though. Maybe if I go to a larger case, I will choose that. Want to finish the current plan though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its not just that reservoir we can add extra ports too. We can do it for a LF Reaction as well.
Click to expand...











I'm not going to need an extra port @tt. Gonna add another Radiator so I can T off it for my drain since it will be the lowest point in my loop. Still it's good to know in case like 100 times before I change my loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## Steveo2400

The gift card competition has more entries available! Go to our facebook page to enter.


----------



## VSG

I fear I shared it more than I should have, that $100 discount would have been great


----------



## kush621

I have a 160mm LF Reaction res. Would it be possible to get a cap with side ports for it? I know there is an add on adapter but it would make the res too long for where I want to put it, and i don't really like the way it looks either.


----------



## VooDooAddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> The gift card competition has more entries available!


Anyone win?


----------



## Steveo2400

As a matter of fact, they did.


----------



## VSG

I assume if you haven't received an email, then you haven't won?


----------



## Steveo2400

Lol, yes. Daniel K. from California claimed the prize.


----------



## VSG

Oh very well then









Time to place my order!


----------



## kush621

I have a 160mm LF Reaction res. Would it be possible to get a cap with side ports for it? I know there is an add on adapter but it would make the res too long for where I want to put it, and i don't really like the way it looks either.


----------



## Slavvik

Hello! I have a question... nobody has been explicit on this. I just ordered the LF Reaction Bay Res...

Is the mount here http://www.frozenqshop.com/d5-pump-top-for-fusion-dual-bay-reservoir/ the mount that works with the MCP655 for the REACTION as well? Because the descriptions only say fusion... as do the descriptions on FrozenCPU. But then, I also have read several references to a mount that already exists for the reaction, so I can only assume this is that mount.

Is this correct?

I'm looking to do a build this next weekend... I hope I don't have to return the reaction res for lack of a mount for my mcp655









Edit: Since I am a fan of making sure answers to questions are posted for posterity:

I contacted Frozen Q support, and the linked pump top is indeed *not* compatible with the LF Reaction bay res. They said they will be posting the page for the new pump top!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Some news!

- We are back at normal capacity now after the laser was down last month, almost everything has shipped at this point.

- We are running a black friday sale right now with up to $40 off most items.

- The new line of cases will be revealed and available Monday!


----------



## goodtobeking

noice


----------



## VSG

Awesome. Alex, any recommendations for colors to go with nickel plated copper tubing and blocks? White? I am considering two NovaCore Extremes and would likely review them before putting them in the TX10-D build.


----------



## Ceadderman

What's yer color scheme VSG? I would go with the contrast color.










~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Leaning towards the 400mm LF Reaction ones now with metallic silver spirals. This side will be clean with nickel plated blocks and tubing. I will probably sell my older 400mm liquid fusion res then.

Edit: Ordered after 3 months of deliberation lol. 2 400mm LF Reaction reservoirs, all for one side of the TX10-D build(s).


----------



## Ceadderman

Wish I could do that for my build.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

The 400mm size will work nicely in the motherboard compartment, not much room left in there. Eager to see how the metallic silver comes up. I will likely go clear coolant here, so may well leave the cathode out too. Let's see how it goes. I will put up pics when I get them- hopefully not as long as my order from last year


----------



## Direct_A

Hey everyone, I'm around a week away from ordering the dual bay reservoir and just wanted to get a feel about how product shipping has been for the las month or so? I'm not in a huge rush to get all the pieces of equipment in (i'm slowly and slowly gathering all the parts I need and will probably get all my stuff ready by spring 2015) but still would like to no the estimated ETA before stuff gets shipped out.

Also I wanted the honours of making the first post of 2015







Happy New Year!

I was thinking about going s red/blue uv reactive helix for my bay reservoir for anyone whom might be interested.


----------



## VSG

I ordered 2 400 mL LF Reaction reservoirs and got them within 2 weeks or so. Not bad given the holiday season. Pics to follow soon!


----------



## Direct_A

Yeah thats pretty good this time of year, though I guess that all relative on your location, I have a feeling it'll take a month of so for myself









And yes, pictures would be delightful


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> Hey everyone, I'm around a week away from ordering the dual bay reservoir and just wanted to get a feel about how product shipping has been for the las month or so? I'm not in a huge rush to get all the pieces of equipment in (i'm slowly and slowly gathering all the parts I need and will probably get all my stuff ready by spring 2015) but still would like to no the estimated ETA before stuff gets shipped out.
> 
> Also I wanted the honours of making the first post of 2015
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy New Year!
> 
> I was thinking about going s red/blue uv reactive helix for my bay reservoir for anyone whom might be interested.


We recently got in a large shipment of bay blocks and we are in the process of milling them. They should be finished sometime next week so it should fall well within the two week lead time.


----------



## Direct_A

Ah alright well that's good to hear. I'll likely be ordering by the end of the week. Cheers Steveo


----------



## Jo0

What's the best method for replacing the UV cold cathode in my 400mm res with a white cold cathode? Not sure what size to buy and all of that either? I've taken apart the res once and I noticed the white cap at the top is sealed with some glue. Not sure what kind of sealant or glue that is either.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0*
> 
> What's the best method for replacing the UV cold cathode in my 400mm res with a white cold cathode? Not sure what size to buy and all of that either? I've taken apart the res once and I noticed the white cap at the top is sealed with some glue. Not sure what kind of sealant or glue that is either.


You can buy a 12" white cathode anywhere, but you'd have to remove it from it's casing, which usually involves cutting it out. We sell them on our web shop already removed from the casing, so you just get the bare bulb.

Sounds like you have one of the rather old generation models. The cap on those is sealed with a pretty standard silicone sealant. If you are to reuse that cap, just make sure you give the new sealant 24 hours to dry.

Should you end up ordering from us, you can request in the comments that you want an extra white acorn cap for the top of the tube. Plenty of extras here, we can throw one in.


----------



## Jo0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> You can buy a 12" white cathode anywhere, but you'd have to remove it from it's casing, which usually involves cutting it out. We sell them on our web shop already removed from the casing, so you just get the bare bulb.
> 
> Sounds like you have one of the rather old generation models. The cap on those is sealed with a pretty standard silicone sealant. If you are to reuse that cap, just make sure you give the new sealant 24 hours to dry.
> 
> Should you end up ordering from us, you can request in the comments that you want an extra white acorn cap for the top of the tube. Plenty of extras here, we can throw one in.


I don't see an option for a white cathode on your site. Just UV,blue,green,and red. I'd love to order from you. With my luck I'd might end up screwing up cutting the bulb casing. Also some extra acorn caps wouldn't hurt lol


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jo0*
> 
> I don't see an option for a white cathode on your site. Just UV,blue,green,and red. I'd love to order from you. With my luck I'd might end up screwing up cutting the bulb casing. Also some extra acorn caps wouldn't hurt lol


Well, their site doesn't specifically have them. However you can still pick them up from a lot of different sites it doesn't have to be from the,

Just finished ordering a LF Reaction Dual Bay Res, now I play the impatient waiting game


----------



## Frozen-Q

Ah, we pulled them because we were having trouble getting white in. Let me see if we have any here.


----------



## Frozen-Q

We have one. Just order a 12" blue cathode, and put in the notes that you want white. I'll look out for the order.


----------



## Jo0

EDIT: PM'd


----------



## KhaosNation

So I've been looking at the FrozenQ LF Dual Bay reservoir, have they finally fixed it?

Also does it still look good with anything other than clear liquid? Was thinking of using UV blue dye in my liquid as part of my colour scheme.


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaosNation*
> 
> So I've been looking at the FrozenQ LF Dual Bay reservoir, have they finally fixed it?
> 
> Also does it still look good with anything other than clear liquid? Was thinking of using UV blue dye in my liquid as part of my colour scheme.


I'm gonna take a guess that unless your helix contrast your coolant colour that you'd be best sticking with the clear liquid. I'm personally staying with clear liquid (distilled water







) so that it doesn't take away from the helix.


----------



## KhaosNation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> I'm gonna take a guess that unless your helix contrast your coolant colour that you'd be best sticking with the clear liquid. I'm personally staying with clear liquid (distilled water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) so that it doesn't take away from the helix.


I was thinking purple LED fans and then a UV LED strip to light up the blue liquid in the tubes, perhaps they have a purple helix
-fingers crossed-


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaosNation*
> 
> I was thinking purple LED fans and then a UV LED strip to light up the blue liquid in the tubes, perhaps they have a purple helix
> -fingers crossed-


Actually, yeah they do have a purple helix. Or at least their websites claim they do. http://www.frozenqpcmods.com/helices.pdf has all their colours and popular choices and how they look.


----------



## KhaosNation

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> Actually, yeah they do have a purple helix. Or at least their websites claim they do. http://www.frozenqpcmods.com/helices.pdf has all their colours and popular choices and how they look.


Nice, its a dark purple too which means it should definitely show even if the cathode is a UV light


----------



## Hell-S-D

Black Clear White Clear

I was wrong, the translucent does not react to UV light ..

I would need UVBlue Black White UVBlue to be perfect

I hope that with the transparent liquid UV his will anyway.

I can not exchange (€ 40 postage). . .

(google traduction)


----------



## Ceadderman

Shoot, I REALLY like that Res. It looks better than you knows.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hell-S-D

Thanx, but it maybe muche better whit a cathode bulb white, (if i found . . .)

I'll think about it a lot of work remains to me before filling up my watercooling.

I wonder if we will see the clear helix in liquid clear / uv.

My case is a "enthoo primo" white pipe will be black and white. And I would put white or RGB LEDs.


----------



## Direct_A

Yeah I gotta agree with Ceadder here, its not a bad looking rez right now.

But hey, if you find a new cathode show us a pic


----------



## Hell-S-D

I wait my liquid uv to see the result. But new helix = 60$ with postage, it's possible that i buy....

FrozenQ can't have a white cathode bulb, only red, green, blue. But i can had 2 whites leds.

Edit:

I have add water and place a white paper to have an idea with liquid uv.

It's not too bad. But without uv light, the clear helix, not appear clearly.


----------



## VSG

Sorry for the delay in pics:










These are my two new 400 mL LF Reaction reservoirs with the Silver helices.










Compared to my older 400 mL LF with plexi caps and Fluorescent Red helices:




























I knew that the UV cathode wouldn't affect the silver helices going in, I don't really plan on using the cathodes at all unless I decide to go with a UV active fluid (not likely). What I didn't realize was that the newer ones were slightly taller. This won't affect my plans now but if at all I decide to go with 3 reservoirs in the same build for whatever reason, I would have to take note of this. The aluminum on the caps is also very well done:



















I will do a full overview of these soon, but I can say that I have been using them for > 20 hours now and they have worked flawlessly so far


----------



## Direct_A

That looks nice! Though I'm more of a fan of the UV effect from the red

What colour of liquid you running through your system?


----------



## VSG

I was hoping the helices would be closer to a nickel finish but it doesn't change things much, I will very likely run a clear coolant. My plan is to have nickel plated copper tubing to go along with the nickel plated waterblocks and fittings.


----------



## caraver

Did anyone order from them in early january 2015? My order since 8th Jan is still awaiting fulfillment sigh...

Its my first time ordering from them and I am not having a good experience , probably will not buy from them anymore...


----------



## Hell-S-D

I placed my order on December 8, the parcel was sent on January 19.

Will be patient for quality


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caraver*
> 
> Did anyone order from them in early january 2015? My order since 8th Jan is still awaiting fulfillment sigh...
> 
> Its my first time ordering from them and I am not having a good experience , probably will not buy from them anymore...


Yeah I ordered from them (on the same day in fact) and i just got my order fulfilled last Friday. I've been kind of impatient and have been sending emails off to them when the two-week max period passed. The only thing I can tell you is to wait a few more days. If we ordered "at the same time" then yours should be sent off in a few more business days.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Sorry for the delay in pics:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are my two new 400 mL LF Reaction reservoirs with the Silver helices.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Compared to my older 400 mL LF with plexi caps and Fluorescent Red helices:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I knew that the UV cathode wouldn't affect the silver helices going in, I don't really plan on using the cathodes at all unless I decide to go with a UV active fluid (not likely). What I didn't realize was that the newer ones were slightly taller. This won't affect my plans now but if at all I decide to go with 3 reservoirs in the same build for whatever reason, I would have to take note of this. The aluminum on the caps is also very well done:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will do a full overview of these soon, but I can say that I have been using them for > 20 hours now and they have worked flawlessly so far


Not to be Captain Obvious here but...

They're taller because of the cap covers.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Nope, they are flush with the end caps here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nope, they are flush with the end caps here.


Yeah just saw that.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

No worries


----------



## Steveo2400

They are taller because we can make them a consistent 400 mm with the threading. Its pretty nice.

As for delayed orders, we know, and we are working on it. Our cathodes finally came in, we have shipped over 80 reservoirs so far. Your reservoirs will ship very soon, i promise.


----------



## VSG

Good to know, I can definitely see the improved manufacturing at work here- so far pretty happy with these and time to update the build logs everywhere!


----------



## Barefooter

Can those aluminum end caps be polished to a chrome like finish? That would look awesome.


----------



## Steveo2400

I dont know, to be honest. We havent tried.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes they can but it would be time consuming and. therefore costly.









~Ceadder


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Good to know, I can definitely see the improved manufacturing at work here- so far pretty happy with these and time to update the build logs everywhere!


It would probably be more cost effective to have them plated rather than polished, but both would have to sent out to a plater/polisher to be done. So it would end up being a little too expensive unless we run a huge batch. Maybe in the future though.


----------



## VSG

Same with the hexagon etched/engraved end caps then?


----------



## NE0XY

Sorry if this has been answered or I missed the information somewhere but is it possible to use the top port as an inlet? If yes, would there be any downsides to this?
Thank you.


----------



## VSG

I don't see any issues using the top as an inlet. You can even flip over the res and use the "bottom" with the two ports as inlet and fill port too if you want. With the LF reservoirs, the helices break up turbulence pretty well I found.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I don't see any issues using the top as an inlet. You can even flip over the res and use the "bottom" with the two ports as inlet and fill port too if you want. With the LF reservoirs, the helices break up turbulence pretty well I found.


Thank you, same applies with "Liquid Fusion X4 Quad Spiral Reservoir" aswell?
The inverter thingy wont fall out if uppside-down?


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Sorry if this has been answered or I missed the information somewhere but is it possible to use the top port as an inlet? If yes, would there be any downsides to this?
> Thank you.


The only real downside that I can imagine is that you may get a trickling noise or sound and you may introduce air bubbles into your loop. Then again, I haven't tried it myself.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> The only real downside that I can imagine is that you may get a trickling noise or sound and you may introduce air bubbles into your loop. Then again, I haven't tried it myself.


Hmm, ye, cause of the lack of "aqua pipe" thingy, good point.
Thank you


----------



## Ceadderman

I use the dual ports at one end of mine for inlets. One is Fillport and the other is Inlet. Works just fine and no noise when your loop is completely filled.









~Ceadder


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Thank you, same applies with "Liquid Fusion X4 Quad Spiral Reservoir" aswell?
> The inverter thingy wont fall out if uppside-down?


Your X4 can be oriented in any direction. I would just be careful to not put too much tension on the cathode, because of how close the base of it is to the end of the cap. They do not sit as far in as a standard 250 does.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> Your X4 can be oriented in any direction. I would just be careful to not put too much tension on the cathode, because of how close the base of it is to the end of the cap. They do not sit as far in as a standard 250 does.


Thank you!


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Here is my custom black and white frozen q spiral what changes guys think?!


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jesusnadinosaur*
> 
> Here is my custom black and white frozen q spiral what changes guys think?!


I'm really liking that tube colour. Reservoir looks purdy as well. but it looks like you'll have trouble putting the side panel on it


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> I'm really liking that tube colour. Reservoir looks purdy as well. but it looks like you'll have trouble putting the side panel on it


No problem putting the side panel on but I did have to put the rear exsast fan on the outside and had to do a 120 instead of a 140mm to get the side panel on lol. looks alot better in person I promise.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> The only real downside that I can imagine is that you may get a trickling noise or sound and you may introduce air bubbles into your loop. Then again, I haven't tried it myself.


Your exactly right I had mine setup with the inlet at the top and unless it's all the way filled it creates Hella bubbles.for about a week it was fine but once the level went down a tad...bubbles.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Just posted a new promo code, FEB15OFF for 15% off till 2/14.


----------



## Mega Man

I saw that thanks.


----------



## Steveo2400

To anyone who has purchased any of the new LF Reaction line, leave us some reviews on our webshop. We are looking for as much feedback as possible to make sure this new product line is as satisfying as possible.


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

I'm thinking of getting another one for my new build I love the spiral res. Wouldn't ever sell mine even if it didn't match.


----------



## Direct_A

Alright, so i just got my Reservoir today

Here are some photo:





I've done some basic leak testing on it to see how everything is, and you know what? The images don't give it justice. This reservoir looks amazing!

Edit: stole my girlfriend phone to get a better picture of it



Gives a much better idea of what the helixes look like


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> To anyone who has purchased any of the new LF Reaction line, leave us some reviews on our webshop. We are looking for as much feedback as possible to make sure this new product line is as satisfying as possible.


I will certainly post a review immediately!


----------



## caraver

First time purchasing from FrozenQ

Took around 1 month for them to ship the item out to my US Address.

As I am from Singapore, I need to forward it to Singapore via comgateway.

Everything arrived smoothly except for the cathode.. for some reason it was broken.









Now I have ordered a replacement cathode from their web store ( cannot be bothered to go through the RMA process as I have already waited way too long to receive my reservoir)

P.S IF any of you FrozenQ Employee sees this, please ship out Order #1231 or let me know If t he cathode is out of stock...


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caraver*
> 
> First time purchasing from FrozenQ
> 
> Took around 1 month for them to ship the item out to my US Address.
> 
> As I am from Singapore, I need to forward it to Singapore via comgateway.
> 
> Everything arrived smoothly except for the cathode.. for some reason it was broken.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have ordered a replacement cathode from their web store ( cannot be bothered to go through the RMA process as I have already waited way too long to receive my reservoir)
> 
> P.S IF any of you FrozenQ Employee sees this, please ship out Order #1231 or let me know If t he cathode is out of stock...


We've got to cut your red mounts you ordered, and then we'll be shipping. Will go out tomorrow.


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmm... what is the largest size your CNC mill capable of? I am looking to get some custom work done for my build, but am having a tough time finding someone local to me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hmmm... what is the largest size your CNC mill capable of? I am looking to get some custom work done for my build, but am having a tough time finding someone local to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The laser is 36"x46". The mill can do about 7"x20"


----------



## Direct_A

So i am having tough times removing tiny air bubbles that are getting stuck to the helices of my bay reservoir.

Does anyone has some tips on how to remove them?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> So i am having tough times removing tiny air bubbles that are getting stuck to the helices of my bay reservoir.
> 
> Does anyone has some tips on how to remove them?


Generally it's just a time thing. How long ago did you fill the system? The best way to try and get some of them out is to tilt the system back and forth and move the water around in the reservoir.


----------



## Direct_A

I would say less than 24 hours ago -- would it be best if I left the top port of the reservoir unplugged for a little while i tilt the case back and forth?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> I would say less than 24 hours ago -- would it be best if I left the top port of the reservoir unplugged for a little while i tilt the case back and forth?


Yes, I would say probably 3-5 days they should go away entirely. Leave the fill plug off while you tilt it.


----------



## Direct_A

Oh alright, so I don't need to leave the fill plug off during this period correct?


----------



## Frozen-Q

I'd leave it off if you can, it may help make the process quicker.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hmmm... what is the largest size your CNC mill capable of? I am looking to get some custom work done for my build, but am having a tough time finding someone local to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The laser is 36"x46". The mill can do about 7"x20"
Click to expand...

Oh nice! I am needing a 2 piece MB cut ~30" square and need the top panel for my case milled. Both pieces need to be .5" thick. They are the thickest pieces of the 8 pieces I am needing. Am wanting my case finished by mid-July's PDXLAN but things seem to have come to a screeching halt.









Maybe you could PM me bout this? I have most everything laid out on posterboard. Only have the faceplate and interior frontpanel left.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hell-S-D

Hi,
Is there any chance of making a special tank

a 15cm long quad spiral tank approximately


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hell-S-D*
> 
> Hi,
> Is there any chance of making a special tank
> 
> a 15cm long quad spiral tank approximately


We do sell a 160mm model. Although we could do a 150mm model for you.


----------



## Ceadderman

I've decided that I need another outlet on the bottom of my Res too. So PM'ed.









~Ceadder


----------



## Hell-S-D

In quad spiral ?







cool


----------



## Ceadderman

Shoot, I wish. But no.









Probably later, but for now I am concentrating on filling out my loop and modding my case.









~Ceadder


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all I am interested in getting this internal reservoir and I was wondering where do you put the pump and what is the best place to put them? I'm currently using a H220X with a Corsair 760T. Cooling my GPU and CPU and two rads. From alot of the pictures I can't tell where the tubing comes out to go into the pump and the inlet port where the water comes back to. Sorry for the "newb" questions.

RES -- http://www.frozencpu.com/products/25523/ex-res-853/FrozenQ_LF_Reaction_250mm_Cylinder_Reservoir_-_Black_Cap_-_UV_Blue_Helix.html

PUMP -- http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16737/ex-pmp-203/Swiftech_MCP655_Variable_Speed_12v_Water_Pump_w_G14_Thread_Ports_Perfectly_Tapped.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Res, should always be before the Pump Intake to keep the Pump lubricated. Fill up the Res all the way beore operation to fill the loop.









Oh and FYI...

Frozen is RIP. You won't be able to order from them anymore. Not sure if their site is taking payment anymore, but I figured I should at least mention it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Direct_A

Alright well now that my system completely built, here are some photos:


----------



## Direct_A

The pump will have instructions on where to put the inlet and outlet If i were to guess, outlet is top inlet is in, but that's just a guess. 50/50 saying I am right. . And as it was mentioned, the reservoir just needs to flow into the pump so that the pump never runs dry. Bad news bears if the pump ends up running dry. Other than that. Place it anywhere inside that case that you have space for it. Use velcro, zip ties, screws, whatever to hold thing down where you want to place them.


----------



## NE0XY

Is there a clean way of connecting two "Liquid Fusion X4 Quad Spiral Reservoir"? seeing as the outlets is on the side and the inlet on the bottom =/


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Is there a clean way of connecting two "Liquid Fusion X4 Quad Spiral Reservoir"? seeing as the outlets is on the side and the inlet on the bottom =/


Is your goal to, similar to how two gpu get watercooled, have one of the reservoirs be used as the inlet and the other used as the outlet? Or is your goal to have both of the reservoirs have an outlet?



Looking at the photo it looks like one side has two ports on it, so you can use of the them to connect the other, and block off the other one, or do whatever you have in mind.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> Is your goal to, similar to how two gpu get watercooled, have one of the reservoirs be used as the inlet and the other used as the outlet? Or is your goal to have both of the reservoirs have an outlet?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at the photo it looks like one side has two ports on it, so you can use of the them to connect the other, and block off the other one, or do whatever you have in mind.


Well I want them to part of the same loop so the water should go from one reservoir to the next then the pumps etc and then end by coming back in the reservoir obviously.

Kinda like in this picture
http://www.redharbinger.com/newsite/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Black_White2.png


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Well I want them to part of the same loop so the water should go from one reservoir to the next then the pumps etc and then end by coming back in the reservoir obviously.


Ah alright, so you want to daisy chain them.. then yeah, since the "bottom" of the quad spiral contains two ports, just use one port to connect it to the other, and block off the one you aren't using.


----------



## NE0XY

I want it to look something like this: 
Is that what you meant?


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> I want it to look something like this:
> Is that what you meant?


Essentially, yeah. since the bottom has two ports, use one port from each reservoir.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> Essentially, yeah. since the bottom has two ports, use one port from each reservoir.


This is from the site:
Ports: 2 Side Outlet, 1 Bottom Inlet, 1 Top Fill Port

http://www.frozenqshop.com/liquid-fusion-x4-quad-spiral-reservoir/

But it should still work right?


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> This is from the site:
> Ports: 2 Side Outlet, 1 Bottom Inlet, 1 Top Fill Port
> 
> http://www.frozenqshop.com/liquid-fusion-x4-quad-spiral-reservoir/
> 
> But it should still work right?


Probably even better! Use the bottom port from both the bottom ports each reservoir, connect them with one of the side ports, and plug up the rest. Use one of the top ports as a fill port.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> Probably even better! Use the bottom port from both the bottom ports each reservoir, connect them with one of the side ports, and plug up the rest. Use one of the top ports as a fill port.


Or as I showed? It'll work better in the case


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NE0XY*
> 
> Or as I showed? It'll work better in the case


I thought what I described (minus the top port used as a fillport) was what you showed a picture of? You'd have to use the side port in order to hook them up.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Direct_A*
> 
> I thought what I described (minus the top port used as a fillport) was what you showed a picture of? You'd have to use the side port in order to hook them up.


Sorry, might've misunderstood, what I drew was in to reservoir from bottom port, out from side port into side port on left reservoir then out from bottom port


----------



## Steveo2400

The way your describing the setup for the X4 will work. Our description of which ports are inlets and outlets is just a suggestion. All of the ports can be used for any purpose because the reservoir can be oriented any way you would like it to be.


----------



## NE0XY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steveo2400*
> 
> The way your describing the setup for the X4 will work. Our description of which ports are inlets and outlets is just a suggestion. All of the ports can be used for any purpose because the reservoir can be oriented any way you would like it to be.


Thank you, perfect answer =)
Expect an order for two reservoirs in a couple of days


----------



## xerythul

So this may have been posted farther back (I read through the last 50-60 pages or so) but I had a quick question about a reservoir that I just received from ppc. I ordered a 250mm blood red LF reaction, and am absolutely in love with it and I haven't even installed it yet haha.

Question is, I took the thing down to parts to see how it all fits together, clean everything up (just in case) and when I went to put it back together it feels like the body of the reservoir doesn't tighten all the way onto the end caps like it should. Is it normal for there to be a few turns of threading visible on top and bottom of the clear body of the reservoir with o-rings installed in the top and bottom caps? I'm going to mess around with it more when I get home from work today, just thought I would post here and see if I could alleviate some stress over this before I got it back in my hands again.

As a quick side note though, other than this perceived potential non-issue, I absolutely love this reservoir, it is amazingly beautiful, and I hate myself for not buying one sooner. Thanks FrozenQ!


----------



## Steveo2400

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> So this may have been posted farther back (I read through the last 50-60 pages or so) but I had a quick question about a reservoir that I just received from ppc. I ordered a 250mm blood red LF reaction, and am absolutely in love with it and I haven't even installed it yet haha.
> 
> Question is, I took the thing down to parts to see how it all fits together, clean everything up (just in case) and when I went to put it back together it feels like the body of the reservoir doesn't tighten all the way onto the end caps like it should. Is it normal for there to be a few turns of threading visible on top and bottom of the clear body of the reservoir with o-rings installed in the top and bottom caps? I'm going to mess around with it more when I get home from work today, just thought I would post here and see if I could alleviate some stress over this before I got it back in my hands again.
> 
> As a quick side note though, other than this perceived potential non-issue, I absolutely love this reservoir, it is amazingly beautiful, and I hate myself for not buying one sooner. Thanks FrozenQ!


Yes, you should see one or two threads. Because we wanted it to compress the o-ring as much as possible, the extra threading is there so that it keeps turning until its as tight as can be, instead of when it runs out of threading.


----------



## xerythul

Excellent, thanks for taking the time to reply! I spent some time with it last night, did a few dry runs with and without o-rings and came to the same conclusion myself but I feel immensely relieved to hear it directly from you. Now to get it installed...


----------



## jesusnadinosaur

Got my build done. I love my frozen q spiral res!! What do you guys think?



The coolant was supposed to be yellow but it's deffinatly more green. Oh well looks cool in uv..



And finnally the spiral goodness in uv. I broke my uv cathode the first day I had it deffinatly need to order a new on so th glow comes from the inside. Oh well still looks cool!!


----------



## Onyxian

Think I first seen these on Linus's channel a long time ago. Never thought I would go water cooled one day but I said if I ever did I would get one. Won't be getting it soon but I'm reading and learning for now, just subscribing to see everyone's builds. Love these, always been a big fan of Resident Evil and would definitely keep it looking like the movie one even though I'm not the biggest fan of the movies.


----------



## striderstone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Think I first seen these on Linus's channel a long time ago. Never thought I would go water cooled one day but I said if I ever did I would get one. Won't be getting it soon but I'm reading and learning for now, just subscribing to see everyone's builds. Love these, always been a big fan of Resident Evil and would definitely keep it looking like the movie one even though I'm not the biggest fan of the movies.


Linus reviewed them like 6 years ago

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRovyKw9wHQ

Things have changed a little bit on them but they are great!

These are probably the only reservoirs that I would ever get. They look great and they work great!.

The only thing that I had a problem with is that I needed 2 reservoirs and I bought them at different times.

The old res that I got had a pull off cap and the new one had a screw off cap. That kind of threw me off for a while, but the screw off cap was the greatest thing for cleaning if you needed to.

The different caps on the 2 different reservoirs had different in/out hole placements as well, that was SUPER weird and kind of messed up my build.

Good luck in your adventure


----------



## Direct_A

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onyxian*
> 
> Think I first seen these on Linus's channel a long time ago. Never thought I would go water cooled one day but I said if I ever did I would get one. Won't be getting it soon but I'm reading and learning for now, just subscribing to see everyone's builds. Love these, always been a big fan of Resident Evil and would definitely keep it looking like the movie one even though I'm not the biggest fan of the movies.


I've been looking at these reservoirs ever since I heard about them 3 or 4 years ago.

Most of the reservoirs I've seen are very plain, and aesthetically boring. When I first saw these things I knew that whenever I got into watercooling I had to get one of them.

Fast forward to last January, I ordered my first water cooling part for my first water cooling build, a bay reservoir. Aside from the wait time, the reservoir itself was a beautiful piece of construction. And shines beautifully in front of my case.

I've had friends wondered what the hell that thing was in front of my computer because it draws attention. My girlfriend is likely gonna order one herself when she does her own build after seeing how beautiful mine is.

and I know for a fact that my first reservoir from FrozenQ won't be my last by them.


----------



## NE0XY

I ordered 2 X4s last week, can't wait for them to get here =D


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hi guise; been awhile.


----------



## Mega Man

Far too long how you been


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I've been better bud I'll tell ya that; I'm hanging in there though. Even dug old computer parts out of storage. Building and selling things.


----------



## ReaperN1

I just got this reservoir from a buddy of mine. I think it looks sweet but, man those caps are sharp. Here's what it looks like with the lighting I've been testing out. I can't wait to get some more H2o parts for a proper loop.


----------



## Onyxian

Mine came in a while ago, decided to go with black caps to match the theme better. Do I need to plug in both molex connectors? Also a little disappointed the screws came to me pretty stripped, want to unscrew them and spray the plate white like the rest will be but I can't get the screws out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well hows about conserving a slot and getting a switch to mount inside your case? I do that with my CCLs and have never had a problem. You can get a CCL switch prewired from PPCs for cheap and hide the switch nearby the box. Until I hacked out the HDD cage I had my CCL boxes on a HDD tray and the switch underneath them at the bottom of the cage. Pretty stealthy setup.









~Ceadder


----------



## Onyxian

Have a link? I have no idea what I'm looking for.


----------



## Ceadderman

Lighting accessories. I would post a link but am on my phone an while I know computers, an know my way round a phone I cannot figure cut an paste out. PC won't die so long as Generation X is alive an kicking.

So look in lighting accessories.









~Ceadder


----------



## THERIDDLER

Looking for some of these reserVoirs. 200mm with blue tubing inside. White cathode preferably. Anyone have any for sale or know where I can buy them?


----------



## Mega Man

2 places I know frozen q Web site. And ppcs.com


----------



## nadja92

Can't wait to fill it!

*Edit::*

Does anyone have any advice or want to share how they've done their tubing for it? Such limited room...


----------



## Ceadderman

I would pull it out fit the fitting in measure the tubing with it slid back into place, pull it for the last time and install the tubing with enough length for filling it and slide the whole assembly with tubing back in and route the tubing where it needs to connect in the loop. Should work just fine so long as you have enough room to slide the fill port past the opening for fillup.









~Ceadder


----------



## NE0XY

I've also put up my two X4s =)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## xerythul

I love this reservoir!! Customer service with the company is amazing, I just can't get enough of how awesome this thing is. I am using a 250mm FrozenQ LF Reaction with blood red helix.

Installed mine a month ago, decided I had to have the side ports as well as the bottom ports, got that put in, broke the UV cathode in the process. I ended up buying the red one, and it's a bit bright, but I still love it. Might end up getting a UV cathode down the way, what do you guys think?


----------



## Ceadderman

Mmmm that Red is smexy.









~Ceadder


----------



## THERIDDLER

I wish you coold still get these. Always wanted one....or two haha


----------



## Onyxian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> I wish you coold still get these. Always wanted one....or two haha


Why can you not get them? I bought mine about a month ago.


----------



## THERIDDLER

I've been reading everywhere that he's out now business


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> I've been reading everywhere that he's out now business


Reading where?


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THERIDDLER*
> 
> I've been reading everywhere that he's out now business


I think you're thinking of FrozenCPU which is currently out of business as far as is known. FrozenQ just released a new line of waterblocks(kind of) and I've seen nothing involving them going out of business. The FrozenQ staff isn't by any means frequent in their commenting and/or giving info on OCN, but nearly every time I've known of them having issues with production (moving locations, fires damaging equipment, etc.) they have updated this thread with relevant information. If they were out of business I would think they wouldn't suddenly stop giving production updates here. In fact, it would seem like they'd mention they have a going out of business sale.

-Z


----------



## xerythul

Not only are they absolutely in business, but their customer service is awesome. I bought my initial reservoir through PPC but had to go direct to FrozenQ for the bottom port upgrade piece. They didn't have it in stock but the person I got in touch with kept me updated on their progress creating more (they make it all there in house!).


----------



## THERIDDLER

It has to be frozen cpu that I'm thinking of. My mistake


----------



## ao47

Hey guys, I just stumbled upon this page and I finally got my frozen q res. So I tried flipping the res upside down so that the top had two ports and the bottom had one port so that I could go from the cpu block to a 90 degree fitting attached to the top of the res. Is there a way to fill it up without getting all the bubbles coming from the top since the res doesn't have an inner tube to exit towards the bottom of the res? The liquid just splashes everywhere inside the res creating more air bubbles. Also, when i was filling, every time I turned off the psu, the res would fill back up with liquid leaving me no room to add more liquid.


----------



## yutzybrian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ao47*
> 
> Hey guys, I just stumbled upon this page and I finally got my frozen q res. So I tried flipping the res upside down so that the top had two ports and the bottom had one port so that I could go from the cpu block to a 90 degree fitting attached to the top of the res. Is there a way to fill it up without getting all the bubbles coming from the top since the res doesn't have an inner tube to exit towards the bottom of the res? The liquid just splashes everywhere inside the res creating more air bubbles. Also, when i was filling, every time I turned off the psu, the res would fill back up with liquid leaving me no room to add more liquid.


You could use an extender on the fill port and keep the res completely topped off. Like this:


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yutzybrian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ao47*
> 
> Hey guys, I just stumbled upon this page and I finally got my frozen q res. So I tried flipping the res upside down so that the top had two ports and the bottom had one port so that I could go from the cpu block to a 90 degree fitting attached to the top of the res. Is there a way to fill it up without getting all the bubbles coming from the top since the res doesn't have an inner tube to exit towards the bottom of the res? The liquid just splashes everywhere inside the res creating more air bubbles. Also, when i was filling, every time I turned off the psu, the res would fill back up with liquid leaving me no room to add more liquid.
> 
> 
> 
> You could use an extender on the fill port and keep the res completely topped off. Like this:
Click to expand...

Even with that it makes bubbles for the first 30 mins due to a thin layer of air that tends to pool at the top. Best to use an aquapipe. http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-female-g1-4-shining-silver-aqua-pipe-ii-fitting.html

Use that on the intake. It injects the fillport below the waterline.

-Z


----------



## ao47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Even with that it makes bubbles for the first 30 mins due to a thin layer of air that tends to pool at the top. Best to use an aquapipe. http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-female-g1-4-shining-silver-aqua-pipe-ii-fitting.html
> 
> Use that on the intake. It injects the fillport below the waterline.
> 
> -Z


I appreciate the help guys. I was looking at the aqua pipe from bitspower, but do you know if it will clear the helixes? I have seen others have the side ports on the top where they'll use it as an inlet. Do you think it'll be easier that way?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ao47*
> 
> Hey guys, I just stumbled upon this page and I finally got my frozen q res. So I tried flipping the res upside down so that the top had two ports and the bottom had one port so that I could go from the cpu block to a 90 degree fitting attached to the top of the res. Is there a way to fill it up without getting all the bubbles coming from the top since the res doesn't have an inner tube to exit towards the bottom of the res? The liquid just splashes everywhere inside the res creating more air bubbles. Also, when i was filling, every time I turned off the psu, the res would fill back up with liquid leaving me no room to add more liquid.


Why not have the 2 ports in the bottom?? In with one and out with the other one????
Put a air valve in the top so you can let the air out. Or a valve to fill with???


----------



## ao47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Why not have the 2 ports in the bottom?? In with one and out with the other one????
> Put a air valve in the top so you can let the air out. Or a valve to fill with???


My pump has an ek top and is directly hooked up to the reservoir. Also, going from the cpu block straight to the top of the res looks clean and is easier to route.


----------



## ZytheEKS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ao47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ZytheEKS*
> 
> Even with that it makes bubbles for the first 30 mins due to a thin layer of air that tends to pool at the top. Best to use an aquapipe. http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-female-g1-4-shining-silver-aqua-pipe-ii-fitting.html
> 
> Use that on the intake. It injects the fillport below the waterline.
> 
> -Z
> 
> 
> 
> I appreciate the help guys. I was looking at the aqua pipe from bitspower, but do you know if it will clear the helixes? I have seen others have the side ports on the top where they'll use it as an inlet. Do you think it'll be easier that way?
Click to expand...

That I do not know. Worst case scenrio you can take a hack saw and cut the end of the aquapipe at a distance that will not hit the helixes. It doesn't _need_ to be that long, it just needs to inject the water under the waterline.

-Z


----------



## Ceadderman

I fill mine through the Fillport in the top of my case as far up that tube as I can and leave the cap off. The air will eventually work it's way out and then you can put the cap back on.









~Ceadder


----------



## ao47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fill mine through the Fillport in the top of my case as far up that tube as I can and leave the cap off. The air will eventually work it's way out and then you can put the cap back on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That's genius. That makes a whole lot of sense. I just have to figure out a way to keep that tube as the fillport to stow. I might need to use smaller tubing or something. Do you have any pics of how yours is setup?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ao47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I fill mine through the Fillport in the top of my case as far up that tube as I can and leave the cap off. The air will eventually work it's way out and then you can put the cap back on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's genius. That makes a whole lot of sense. I just have to figure out a way to keep that tube as the fillport to stow. I might need to use smaller tubing or something. Do you have any pics of how yours is setup?
Click to expand...

Maybe...





I got lucky that there were a couple here. Photobucket dumped my pic storage over the last couple of years and my system is down for Modding.









Nickel plated barb is the fillport side. It connected to nothing in particular in these shots but the tubing went outside the stock HAF fillport opening until I got the fitting to install there.









~Ceadder


----------



## ao47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Maybe...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got lucky that there were a couple here. Photobucket dumped my pic storage over the last couple of years and my system is down for Modding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel plated barb is the fillport side. It connected to nothing in particular in these shots but the tubing went outside the stock HAF fillport opening until I got the fitting to install there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks Ceadder. I'm going to try this route out once my new rad gets here.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ao47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Maybe...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got lucky that there were a couple here. Photobucket dumped my pic storage over the last couple of years and my system is down for Modding.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nickel plated barb is the fillport side. It connected to nothing in particular in these shots but the tubing went outside the stock HAF fillport opening until I got the fitting to install there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Ceadder. I'm going to try this route out once my new rad gets here.
Click to expand...

YW.









~Ceadder


----------



## nadja92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would pull it out fit the fitting in measure the tubing with it slid back into place, pull it for the last time and install the tubing with enough length for filling it and slide the whole assembly with tubing back in and route the tubing where it needs to connect in the loop. Should work just fine so long as you have enough room to slide the fill port past the opening for fillup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Hey I've recently been looking at my reservoir and since I'm using acrylic tubing there's no way I can slide it in/out for the top fillport. My only option is to use the inlet in the back of the res as a fillport.

So I was curious to if anyone could show me/give advice for filling the bay res I'd be grateful. Thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

Which Res? Knowing that could be half the battle. I mean is it a tubular or Bay Res?

~Ceadder


----------



## nadja92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Which Res? Knowing that could be half the battle. I mean is it a tubular or Bay Res?
> 
> ~Ceadder


Oh woops, it was in reply to my original post. Dual bay LF reaction.

I've edited my picture from previous post.



There isn't much space above, my case is the NZXT Switch 810, I'd probably need to cut some space above if I was to fill through there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well to simplify things you could put a Y fitting in at Inlet and put up fillport in the uppermost route and your block/rad outlet in at the lowest point. Or even a T fitting and have your Inlet in the straight and FP in the cross section? Problem solved?









~Ceadder


----------



## nadja92

This was my proposed path, with the fill port going vertically up now (not bend past the radiator like shown above) if I was to connect it to the res inlet. I was hoping it'd fill fine... connecting the tubes to the res will be fun I think, even with my dinky hands.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not much room between the 5.25" cage and the Radiator though. Might be better to drill through the top of the cage for a more direct route.









~Ceadder


----------



## jikdoc

does anyone have contact info for FrozenQ? placed an order and got paypal notification of payment but no order confirmation from FrozenQ. Multiple emails sent and no response. would like to call them at this point....


----------



## Ceadderman

They may be swamped or any number of issues. They will get with you when they can from my experience.









~Ceadder


----------



## teamrushpntball

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jikdoc*
> 
> does anyone have contact info for FrozenQ? placed an order and got paypal notification of payment but no order confirmation from FrozenQ. Multiple emails sent and no response. would like to call them at this point....


I'm in a similar position, placed an order a little while ago and no contact since. Did your order ever come through or you ever get in contact with them?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Boo.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teamrushpntball*
> 
> I'm in a similar position, placed an order a little while ago and no contact since. Did your order ever come through or you ever get in contact with them?


Shoot me a PM or email at [email protected] with your order number and I can update you. We're completely swamped with orders right now. The past few months have been the busiest we've ever seen so I apologize if you haven't heard anything back yet.


----------



## dkevox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Shoot me a PM or email at [email protected] with your order number and I can update you. We're completely swamped with orders right now. The past few months have been the busiest we've ever seen so I apologize if you haven't heard anything back yet.


Well this was nice to read. You now have got PM.

I emailed you over 2 weeks ago, sent a message over the site over a week ago, and tried calling a number I found listed on your mobile site last week all to no avail. The order was updated to "Awaiting Shipment" on July 2nd and is tortuously the only thing preventing me from finishing this new PC build.

But I do very much like your products and have been trying to patiently wait! Here's a pic (cause everyone loves pics) of how it's been sitting on my desk just teasing me.


----------



## dkevox

Well,

Got a fast reply from FrozenQ and my ordered has shipped. So thanks for the great products!


----------



## eucalyptus

Hi, I have ordered two 400mm FrozenQ reservoirs with a green twist.

But to the point, I wonder what is the size of the screws for the mounting hardware? Are they M3, M4 or M5?


----------



## joztdarb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hi, I have ordered two 400mm FrozenQ reservoirs with a green twist.
> 
> But to the point, I wonder what is the size of the screws for the mounting hardware? Are they M3, M4 or M5?


Hey eucalyptus, the latest set of standard mounts I ordered from FrozenQ were M3 and screwed in at the back of the mount. Older sets I've ordered had longer screws and screwed in from the front with a nut to secure them at the back.


----------



## eucalyptus

@Joztdarb is that a "nut" inside the mount?? This just fits me better and better, wow didn't know about these features, they fit my new super custom build perfectly!









Thanks for the picture and info man, really appreciated







+rep!


----------



## joztdarb

Yeah it screws straight into it, I would not known either had I not gone to take a picture of my spare set to show you lol. I ordered them back in January so I assume yours will be the same.

Be sure the post us some pics of your build once its starts to come together


----------



## JRS2K

Looking to buy this res but was wondering if it is possible to mount this res to a pump like the EK-XRES?
Are the caps on both ends screwed on? If so, anyone know the diameter?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes you can mount to any top so long as the Inlet is facing up, using a standard Male/Male fitting of any length and use the mounts to support the Res. This is of course assuming you're referring to the cylinder type of Res.

I had my Res set up in this fashion using a 10mm Male/Male fitting for the best stable coupling. My pumps are in a DualDDC top and they were ghetto fastened to my old HDD rack which no longer exists.

Somewhere bouts here there should be a pic of the setup in my photos. I'm on my phone or I would simply post it.









~Ceadder


----------



## JRS2K

Cool.
I'll definitely go through the thread and see if I can find it.


----------



## Lordevan83

I'm thinking about getting a Frozen Q LF reaction res for my S Frame. I'm hoping to lay it flat across the top like this, where the EK res currently is. Will the stock mounting bracket be secure enough for a horizontal mount facing out like this. I notice that it doesn't have a screw to tighten down like the EK mounts. If not are the Frozen Q res compatible with other 60mm res mounts like what EK have? Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Unless I miss my guess, you will need 58mm mounts other than the standard FrozenQ mounts. I have 60mm EK mounts that barely hold mine in place so I applied some foam strips to fill the gap and use them to hold the caps of the Res. 58mm will hold the caps just fine. I think the tube is 50-55mm but I don't have a large enough caliper to measure the OD of my Res to confirm the exact size.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lordevan83

Thanks Ceadderman. Do you think the standard frozen Q mount is strong enough for this type of mounting?

I take it that the 250mmx60.3mmx60.3mm listed dimension is wrong then?
http://www.frozenqshop.com/lf-reaction-250mm-cylinder-reservoir/


----------



## Ceadderman

Not likely wrong. I have an earlier version which is narrow. So am not sure now.









I'd call whomever stocks it and have them measure the caps for the straight skinny.

~Ceadder


----------



## blurp

I plan to buy the frozenq FlexTank V2 Micro-Reservoir. I will directly attach my D5 pump and l put it between my PSU and GPU. Tight place. I'm fed up with my bay res : vibration, hassle filling and draining. What do you guys think before I pull the trigger ?


----------



## maybach123

just bought a frozen q nova core extreme once i get it ill post a pic see if i can be added to the list of owners


----------



## blurp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blurp*
> 
> I plan to buy the frozenq FlexTank V2 Micro-Reservoir. I will directly attach my D5 pump and l put it between my PSU and GPU. Tight place. I'm fed up with my bay res : vibration, hassle filling and draining. What do you guys think before I pull the trigger ?


Well, despite the absence of reviews and user's feedback, I bit the bullet and got the Frozen Q Flex Tank V2 MICRO-RESERVOIR.


Installation was a breeze. Beware, there was some plastic leftover in the outlet that formed a small bunch of curled hair.
Bleeding was much faster and easier than my XSPS dual Bay res that would recirculate bubbles in the loop. I have no vibration thanks to some pads. Please don't mind the few loose wires, i'll take care of them later.


----------



## Zhinjio

I just want to take a moment to throw out a quick "THANK YOU" to AlexQ at FrozenQ.

I originally purchased my LF Helix 160mm's at FrozenCPU nearly a year ago (just before things went sideways with them). When I just recently finally get around to getting moving again, I noticed that one of the reservoirs didn't have the full complement of gaskets inside. I sent an email explaining the story, and he got me a new set out the door within days. Superb customer service, and definitely not something you see any more, in this, or quite frankly.... ANY industry anymore.

Much appreciated.

Best Regards,
- ZJ


----------



## maybach123

can i get on the list


----------



## noahark

May I ask how long does it take for frozenq to ship out their order? I placed my order on their website for 2 weeks and still waiting on it. My order status is still "awaiting fulfillment"


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noahark*
> 
> May I ask how long does it take for frozenq to ship out their order? I placed my order on their website for 2 weeks and still waiting on it. My order status is still "awaiting fulfillment"


It can take 10-14 business days depending on what it was. Right now its mainly just because its the holidays and we have a massive amount of custom orders to build and ship.

I would expect it to ship by Tuesday though, we're working this weekend to get caught up.


----------



## Frozen-Q

I just want to make a quick announcement here as I've started to get some messages and emails about this.

Chinese manufacturer Barrow has started to produce knock off versions of our Liquid Fusion/LF Reaction helix reservoirs. We are in no way affiliated with them, nor have we sold our designs to them for production.

Please be aware of this when purchasing one of our reservoirs, and ensure that you are not being sold a knock off item branded as our own.

The easy way to tell right now, is that our reservoirs still have the brushed aluminum end sleeves, whereas they are producing theirs with just acetal end caps.

We CANNOT provide RMA's or support for any Barrow produced reservoirs.

We have a received a number of messages asking about our own products and production ethics. We do still produce our reservoirs at our shop in New Hampshire, USA, from materials sourced from the USA and Europe. Everything is produced and assembled in house by myself and a very small team.

We will continue to strive to provide a high quality item that allows you literally thousands of customization options, and sincerely appreciate everyone's continued support.


----------



## VSG

What about the reservoir in the Deepccol Genome case? They mention it is a Helix but no mention of Frozen-Q and so I wasn't sure.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What about the reservoir in the Deepccol Genome case? They mention it is a Helix but no mention of Frozen-Q and so I wasn't sure.


Definitely not ours.


----------



## Ceadderman

Yeah I saw this a couple weeks back when I was perusing a linked site. Made a stink about it and a few other manufacturers knock offed items and you'd be surprised(maybe not) how many people could've cared less.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Barrow (pun intended they barrow your designs), thermalfake, asecrap all on my list already


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Definitely not ours.


Ouch! I was giving them benefit of the doubt till now.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> What about the reservoir in the Deepccol Genome case? They mention it is a Helix but no mention of Frozen-Q and so I wasn't sure.


Well not to get flamed by the thread, but I recently had someone mention this and want to clear something up for everyone.

The Idea of Frozen Qs Reservoir, was never original IP, Nor is the Term "Helix". The Frozen Q reservoir is made to look exactly like the Tvirus and is compared as such all the time. It is kinda hard to deny that fact for anyone that has ever played Resident Evil.

Here is the T Virus,


A Helix again has no ownership by Frozen Q, A Double helix is the description of the structure of a DNA molecule. Here is a pic of that.


The cases overlaying theme is of such. The Tvirus is a Genome Virus in Resident Evils IP. The name of the case is the "Genome" and that is what they are trying to recreate by using the T Virus mimic that is meant to represent a DNA strand.

A genome in case you didn't know. Is the complete set of a organism's DNA, it is enough to completely recreate said organism.

This is not meant to offend or be mean to Frozen Q in any way, I think there Idea of a T Virus reservoir was great it looks awesome and is sure to grab the attention of gamers. However it is not nor ever will be there IP, and so Deepcool using it is not unethical.

This is a rectangle box with round corners situation.


----------



## VSG

Oh I know that, they've never hid that part. But it's not any IP theft by Frozen-Q or Barrow here because it's a different industry (Resident Evil to watercooling a computer) and it's not an invention but a trade design at most. My concern, and that of Alex's as I understand it, is that people will think those reservoirs were made by Frozen-Q. If they fail, then people will further associate this brand with negatives. He already mentioned people were asking him about those reservoirs (Barrow ones, at least) and Deepcool will be selling those cases in the US very soon.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh I know that, they've never hid that part. But it's not any IP theft by Frozen-Q or Barrow here because it's a different industry (Resident Evil to watercooling a computer) and it's not an invention but a trade design at most. My concern, and that of Alex's as I understand it, is that people will think those reservoirs were made by Frozen-Q. If they fail, then people will further associate this brand with negatives. He already mentioned people were asking him about those reservoirs (Barrow ones, at least) and Deepcool will be selling those cases in the US very soon.


Ya I can see where that comes from, What is the barrow one? that is what I came looking for.

I don't honestly think it should be RE's IP either to be honest as it represents a DNA strand.

Also don't understand why he would have a bad name, I got a Frozen Q reservoir and have had since they first came out I have never had any problems with it aside from the lights (which are not his fault at all.)
I guess its like I say though the ones that have an issue have the loudest mouths...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh I know that, they've never hid that part. But it's not any IP theft by Frozen-Q or Barrow here because it's a different industry (Resident Evil to watercooling a computer) and it's not an invention but a trade design at most. My concern, and that of Alex's as I understand it, is that people will think those reservoirs were made by Frozen-Q. If they fail, then people will further associate this brand with negatives. He already mentioned people were asking him about those reservoirs (Barrow ones, at least) and Deepcool will be selling those cases in the US very soon.
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I can see where that comes from, What is the barrow one? that is what I came looking for.
> 
> I don't honestly think it should be RE's IP either to be honest as it represents a DNA strand.
> 
> Also don't understand why he would have a bad name, I got a Frozen Q reservoir and have had since they first came out I have never had any problems with it aside from the lights (which are not his fault at all.)
> I guess its like I say though the ones that have an issue have the loudest mouths...
Click to expand...

Well sir you are correct if FrozenQ built and sold a complete DNA strand and marketed as such.

But they didn't build them for that purpose. They built them to collect, store and supply coolant for the water cooling community.

They were the only company to do so. The makers of Resident Evil are not in that industry either. So there is no theft except by those in the industry that FrozenQ services.

Chevrolet could make a T Virus and repurpose it for their new Corvette and Frozen Q couldn't do anything about that unless it works exactly the same and serves a similar purpose as the Water Cooling Reservoir model that FrozenQ manufactures and sells.

~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well sir you are correct if FrozenQ built and sold a complete DNA strand and marketed as such.
> 
> But they didn't build them for that purpose. They built them to collect, store and supply coolant for the water cooling community.
> 
> They were the only company to do so. The makers of Resident Evil are not in that industry either. So there is no theft except by those in the industry that FrozenQ services.
> 
> Chevrolet could make a T Virus and repurpose it for their new Corvette and Frozen Q couldn't do anything about that unless it works exactly the same and serves a similar purpose as the Water Cooling Reservoir model that FrozenQ manufactures and sells.
> 
> ~Ceadder


I agree I do not think there is anything wrong with Frozen Q recreating the Tvirus (which btw I will say again holds water by design it holds a liquid disease, all FQ did was add ports). Nor do I think there is anything wrong with DC making a similar reservoir, If they blatantly stole Frozen Qs design used there ports layout ect it would be different.

They didn't they made a Tvirus prop with some holes in it same as Frozen Q did, if frozen Q had a patent they would be laughed out of court. Deepcool didn't steal there patent nor there design they just made a reservoir that looks like a T Virus. Its not even a standalone reservoir, its in a case and fixed to that case, it wont even compete with Frozen Qs.


----------



## dthai17

I tried looking but does anyone know the approximate capacity for the 400mm version?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I agree I do not think there is anything wrong with Frozen Q recreating the Tvirus (which btw I will say again holds water by design it holds a liquid disease, all FQ did was add ports). Nor do I think there is anything wrong with DC making a similar reservoir, If they blatantly stole Frozen Qs design used there ports layout ect it would be different.
> 
> They didn't they made a Tvirus prop with some holes in it same as Frozen Q did, if frozen Q had a patent they would be laughed out of court. Deepcool didn't steal there patent nor there design they just made a reservoir that looks like a T Virus. Its not even a standalone reservoir, its in a case and fixed to that case, it wont even compete with Frozen Qs.


Port layout has little to do with anything. Our last version of the res was actually exactly as theirs is. It's a reservoir, with a UV reactive helix, driven by a cold cathode UV lamp. Which is what these companies have replicated. They copied the helix design down to the exact size. Do I have protection over the design and is it enforceable? We'll that's something to be determined and and that I cannot discuss here. (Not being rude, just simply cannot discuss details of legal matters).

I'm really not even concerned about the Deepcool case. Because they are in fact, selling a case with an integrated cooling system, and the reservoir up front is a prop more than anything. Not to mention, they did something very different with the reservoir. Thinner helix, different end caps, different lighting structure.

The main issue here, apart from the design of the Barrow reservoir, is the naming from Barrow. They are marketing it as the "Barrow T Virus Reaction Helix Reservoir". Whereas our product is the LF Reaction Helix Reservoir.

As one of the other members said, my primary reason for mentioning the whole ordeal was to make people aware and limit confusion. Guaranteed people will confuse theirs for ours, and people will be beating down my door for RMA support for a reservoir we didn't produce. Or emailing asking questions about an item we didn't produce.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dthai17*
> 
> I tried looking but does anyone know the approximate capacity for the 400mm version?


Approximately 325mL


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I agree I do not think there is anything wrong with Frozen Q recreating the Tvirus (which btw I will say again holds water by design it holds a liquid disease, all FQ did was add ports). Nor do I think there is anything wrong with DC making a similar reservoir, If they blatantly stole Frozen Qs design used there ports layout ect it would be different.
> 
> They didn't they made a Tvirus prop with some holes in it same as Frozen Q did, if frozen Q had a patent they would be laughed out of court. Deepcool didn't steal there patent nor there design they just made a reservoir that looks like a T Virus. Its not even a standalone reservoir, its in a case and fixed to that case, it wont even compete with Frozen Qs.
> 
> 
> 
> Port layout has little to do with anything. Our last version of the res was actually exactly as theirs is. It's a reservoir, with a UV reactive helix, driven by a cold cathode UV lamp. Which is what these companies have replicated. They copied the helix design down to the exact size. Do I have protection over the design and is it enforceable? We'll that's something to be determined and and that I cannot discuss here. (Not being rude, just simply cannot discuss details of legal matters).
> 
> I'm really not even concerned about the Deepcool case. Because they are in fact, selling a case with an integrated cooling system, and the reservoir up front is a prop more than anything. Not to mention, they did something very different with the reservoir. Thinner helix, different end caps, different lighting structure.
> 
> The main issue here, apart from the design of the Barrow reservoir, is the naming from Barrow. They are marketing it as the "Barrow T Virus Reaction Helix Reservoir". Whereas our product is the LF Reaction Helix Reservoir.
> 
> As one of the other members said, my primary reason for mentioning the whole ordeal was to make people aware and limit confusion. Guaranteed people will confuse theirs for ours, and people will be beating down my door for RMA support for a reservoir we didn't produce. Or emailing asking questions about an item we didn't produce.
Click to expand...

Red Jacket (a firearms company in the South) has had people walk through their doors attempting to get warranty work done on knockoff AKs. Imagine the look on the face of the customer when the owner explains to them the differences and the shoddy work done on their AK. That's what I imagine when someone contacts your company for RMA work on a Reservoir you had nothing to do with.

Knockoffs suck for this very reason, and people are selling them through eBay, Craigslist and other vendor sites.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> Port layout has little to do with anything. Our last version of the res was actually exactly as theirs is. It's a reservoir, with a UV reactive helix, driven by a cold cathode UV lamp. Which is what these companies have replicated. They copied the helix design down to the exact size. Do I have protection over the design and is it enforceable? We'll that's something to be determined and and that I cannot discuss here. (Not being rude, just simply cannot discuss details of legal matters).
> 
> I'm really not even concerned about the Deepcool case. Because they are in fact, selling a case with an integrated cooling system, and the reservoir up front is a prop more than anything. Not to mention, they did something very different with the reservoir. Thinner helix, different end caps, different lighting structure.
> 
> The main issue here, apart from the design of the Barrow reservoir, is the naming from Barrow. They are marketing it as the "Barrow T Virus Reaction Helix Reservoir". Whereas our product is the LF Reaction Helix Reservoir.
> 
> As one of the other members said, my primary reason for mentioning the whole ordeal was to make people aware and limit confusion. Guaranteed people will confuse theirs for ours, and people will be beating down my door for RMA support for a reservoir we didn't produce. Or emailing asking questions about an item we didn't produce.


Ahh okay, well ya that's the thing I was only talking about the DeepCool one not the Barrow. As you said the DeepCool does not seem to use your design.

Now if there is a barrow one that did use your design (which I defiantly believe). That is a completely diffrent matter and I am 110% on your side on that one.

That was why I asked what is this Barrow one, I have yet to see it. The confusion is being set in as the Barrow and dc are being used intertwined in a way.

None of my comments here are talking about the Barrow at all. Only the deepcool which as we both can agree on has very little similarity with yours.

Okay so i guess I should have just googled barrow tvirus lol. Anyway I was under the impression that the DCs was made by barrow or something IDK honestly. However ya that's not the resovor I refer to with any of my posts.

That Barrow is 100% a knock off, that's a completely different situation, they did in my eyes steal your IP.


----------



## 117Omega

Hi Everybody.
Im french (and also new here) and im looking for a watercolling solution based on the FrozenQ reservoir in my Phantom 820 case.
Im totally a newbie about watercooling and im come here to find some help.

First of all, this is my PC :



As you can see, my 980Ti poseidon already have waterblocks, and im interesting by this reservoir :



Could you give me some advice about how to manage my circuit ? (only for the GPU)

What do you think about this following circuit ? Is it possible ? optimize ?

(Sorry, ugly paint work







)



Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

works great !


----------



## 117Omega

Thanks,

And...could you explain me something...

When you choose a reservoir on the frozenQ website, there is an options for the Cathode color.
What is the diference between UV and UV LED ?

If you choose simple UV, have you effects like this ?


----------



## VSG

Yes, the picture above is with a UV cathode. If you have UV responsive helices, it will work nicely. For example, the one of the left below is UV responsive but not the one on the right:


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *117Omega*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> And...could you explain me something...
> 
> When you choose a reservoir on the frozenQ website, there is an options for the Cathode color.
> What is the diference between UV and UV LED ?
> 
> If you choose simple UV, have you effects like this ?


We just added the option for UV LED's.

So just UV is a standard cathode bulb, and the UV LED option is a rigid strip lined with LED lights.

The benefit of the LED's is that it plugs right into a 3 pin fan header for power, and doesn't require the bulky inverter.


----------



## 117Omega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> We just added the option for UV LED's.
> 
> So just UV is a standard cathode bulb, and the UV LED option is a rigid strip lined with LED lights.
> 
> The benefit of the LED's is that it plugs right into a 3 pin fan header for power, and doesn't require the bulky inverter.


OK, If i understand , if you choose the model with simple UV cathode (no LED), without the inverter, you are able to have this result,but you can't switch OFF UV LIGHT ?
Is LED MODEL more Powerful ? Do have have any photos ?
If UV LED is 3pin power, what is the power suply for UV cathode ?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *117Omega*
> 
> OK, If i understand , if you choose the model with simple UV cathode (no LED), without the inverter, you are able to have this result,but you can't switch OFF UV LIGHT ?
> Is LED MODEL more Powerful ? Do have have any photos ?
> If UV LED is 3pin power, what is the power suply for UV cathode ?


You need the inverter to power the UV cathode period.

The LED model is not more powerful, but it does not need an inverter.

So:

UV LED Strip: 3 Pin Fan Header for Power
UV Cathode: Requires Inverter Kit, 4 Pin MOLEX for Power


----------



## DunePilot

I can't find any pics of red spirals with red fluid under UV.

I also wondering if any of these spirals actually would show up through Mayhem Aurora fluid.... my guess is no?

I was thinking either red fluid and red spirals under UV or the silver colored Mayhem Aurora fluid with either red spirals or black spirals under UV.
If anyone has come across any of those pictures can you relink please? Thanks.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DunePilot*
> 
> I can't find any pics of red spirals with red fluid under UV.
> 
> I also wondering if any of these spirals actually would show up through Mayhem Aurora fluid.... my guess is no?
> 
> I was thinking either red fluid and red spirals under UV or the silver colored Mayhem Aurora fluid with either red spirals or black spirals under UV.
> If anyone has come across any of those pictures can you relink please? Thanks.


I will look through our server and see if I can find any pics for you, but I don't think I do.

The helix will NOT show up with the aurora or pastel fluid. We have tried both recently and it just ends up not showing up. However, the aurora fluid does do an interesting thing, where you can kind of see the coolant circulating in a spiral pattern with the helix.

My suggestion would be to do a transparent red coolant, with either a silver helix or a black helix, if I get what you are after.


----------



## BuddhaOnDope

double post....sry


----------



## BuddhaOnDope

Hey Guys!

I started to build my new RIG and felt in love with this awesome reservoir you guys have been created! Great Job, really great Job!

However, i am already quite sure what Reservoir i want to include into the new Loop, the LF Reaction 250mm Reservoir.

Helix one and two "UV Blue" with an red cathode inside.

But i have two questions:

1) Does someone have some pictures what it looks like?

2) I want the "FrozenQ Essentials Coolant - UV Blue" inside to make my PETG's looks quite nice, but i am afraid that it will destroy the whole look of the reservoir and the helixes.
Anybody tried this already and can upload some pics or give a comment if ist nice or ugly?









3) Any Version with blue Helix and red coolant would be highly appreciated as well!

Thanks a lot in advance!
Greetings!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuddhaOnDope*
> 
> Hey Guys!
> 
> I started to build my new RIG and felt in love with this awesome reservoir you guys have been created! Great Job, really great Job!
> 
> However, i am already quite sure what Reservoir i want to include into the new Loop, the LF Reaction 250mm Reservoir.
> 
> Helix one and two "UV Blue" with an red cathode inside.
> 
> But i have two questions:
> 
> 1) Does someone have some pictures what it looks like?
> 
> 2) I want the "FrozenQ Essentials Coolant - UV Blue" inside to make my PETG's looks quite nice, but i am afraid that it will destroy the whole look of the reservoir and the helixes.
> Anybody tried this already and can upload some pics or give a comment if ist nice or ugly?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3) Any Version with blue Helix and red coolant would be highly appreciated as well!
> 
> Thanks a lot in advance!
> Greetings!


Hello and thank you! Unfortunately I do no believe I have any pictures of that specific combo with the red cathode inside, but perhaps someone else will. We have shipped a number of reservoirs with this configuration.

I don't recommend using colored fluids with any of the helix reservoirs as it really takes away from the color of the helix itself. At the very least, use the same color coolant as the helix so the colors don't bleed together. If you go through this thread I'm sure you'll find some good examples.


----------



## lu270bro

@Frozen-Q, sent you a pm.


----------



## inable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blurp*
> 
> Well, despite the absence of reviews and user's feedback, I bit the bullet and got the Frozen Q Flex Tank V2 MICRO-RESERVOIR.
> 
> 
> Installation was a breeze. Beware, there was some plastic leftover in the outlet that formed a small bunch of curled hair.
> Bleeding was much faster and easier than my XSPS dual Bay res that would recirculate bubbles in the loop. I have no vibration thanks to some pads. Please don't mind the few loose wires, i'll take care of them later.


Would you happen to know the depth of your res+pump from the plexi to the rear of the D5 (excluding power cable)? For my planned configuration, I have 4.25"/108mm of clearance.


----------



## blurp

Just measured it : 105 mm. BTW I changed my rig but I kept this pump + res combo.


----------



## HaPPyCaMPer75

Question,

Would your reservoirs fit on this pump base by Koolance?

http://koolance.com/pump-nozzle-and-reservoir-base-for-pmp-450-60mm-od


----------



## blurp

The PMP 450 is a re branded D5. So if it fits a D5 it works like my Frozen Q Flex Tank V2 MICRO-RESERVOIR.


----------



## HaPPyCaMPer75

well that doesnt really answer the question though. I now the pump fits that base. Im more worried about the base fitting to the reservoir

thanks though!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaPPyCaMPer75*
> 
> Question,
> 
> Would your reservoirs fit on this pump base by Koolance?
> 
> http://koolance.com/pump-nozzle-and-reservoir-base-for-pmp-450-60mm-od


Unfortunately no, the threading for their reservoirs is completely different. We hope to have an item like this on the market soon though!


----------



## Frozen-Q

Haven't posted in awhile, but thought I'd drop some pictures of some reservoirs we've shipped out recently. People are always asking for pictures of different color combinations, so here's a few!

Keep sharing your pictures of our reservoirs in your builds! We love to see them.


----------



## JavajiveDK

Just Put mine in. Quad helix with matte Black, gold and uv blue to match My s frame. Filled with uv green frozen liquid. Waiting on My hard tube and Fittings so just soft tube and backup Fittings for now.


----------



## eLLizD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> I will look through our server and see if I can find any pics for you, but I don't think I do.
> 
> The helix will NOT show up with the aurora or pastel fluid. We have tried both recently and it just ends up not showing up. However, the aurora fluid does do an interesting thing, where you can kind of see the coolant circulating in a spiral pattern with the helix.
> 
> My suggestion would be to do a transparent red coolant, with either a silver helix or a black helix, if I get what you are after.


Hopefully Frozen-Q is still active on this board.

I'm about to start on my first build and I really want to use the FrozenQ LF Reaction 400mm Reservoir - Black Helix. My plan is to do exactly what you mentioned above; black helix with I was thinking a red dye. Have you seen any configurations like this or would transparent red coolant work better? Thanks.


----------



## rtb001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JavajiveDK*
> 
> Just Put mine in. Quad helix with matte Black, gold and uv blue to match My s frame. Filled with uv green frozen liquid. Waiting on My hard tube and Fittings so just soft tube and backup Fittings for now.


Hey JavajiveDK, nice rig! I'm slowly collecting parts to build in my own InWin case. I had a question about the two photos you showed. The UV blue helix looked very blue in the bottom picture with no liquid in it, but in the installed picture with the UV green coolant, the UV blue helix looks green as well. So does a UV reactive coolant completely overpower the color of a UV reactive helix? I would have thought it would cause a new color to be made, as in UV green coolant plus UV blue helix would make the helix look purple.

I'm trying to figure out if ordering UV reactive helices means you must use a clear non-UV reacting coolant.


----------



## JavajiveDK

Well, the uv blue helix is only faint blue. Not a hard blue, and my liquid is light uv green, still very transparent, in my case the uv blue helix looks transparent, and lights up as green, however the liquid is still transparent enough, so the gold and matt black helix's are still their real color when looked at. Hard to see on the cellphone pics.

I will take some better Pictures with a real camera later today, or tomorrow, so you can get a better impression of the effect.

Also changed the loop a bit since the first Pictures. It now running 2 smaller GPUs, and 10/16 lines. Also added a 1080 rad below my desktop.


----------



## rtb001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JavajiveDK*
> 
> Well, the uv blue helix is only faint blue. Not a hard blue, and my liquid is light uv green, still very transparent, in my case the uv blue helix looks transparent, and lights up as green, however the liquid is still transparent enough, so the gold and matt black helix's are still their real color when looked at. Hard to see on the cellphone pics.
> 
> I will take some better Pictures with a real camera later today, or tomorrow, so you can get a better impression of the effect.
> 
> Also changed the loop a bit since the first Pictures. It now running 2 smaller GPUs, and 10/16 lines. Also added a 1080 rad below my desktop.


Great, I'd really appreciate some more pics. Still trying to determine which helix colors to get, and I was hoping to do an orange/green color theme, with UV green coolant.


----------



## Frozen-Q

Lots of new stuff going on around with the new LFX Reservoirs being available. If you've got one and have one installed, we'd love to see some pictures!



Now that the direct pump mount option is a thing, we're finding the reservoirs to be much much more versatile. To make it better, we also just switched to start using VPP755's. We thought the gunmetal grey shell and black ring really looked a lot better with the reservoir overall. We still are offering the DDC variant and are using DDC-310 black chrome pumps for those.



DDC-310 on an LFX 250 with a green core insert.



A few different variants awaiting pumps.



This is something new we tried for a customer recently. They asked what if we shoved a helix inside a NovaCore Extreme reservoir. I was hesitant at first but after putting it together I was incredibly surprised. So this is something we are going to be offering upon request only.

Also, I see a lot of people requesting pictures of different colored helices in different fluids. What I'm planning on doing is taking a set of pictures for this purpose, however in the meantime if you'd like to see something, please let me know and I can try and get a picture of the combo in question done faster.

In general, some UV coolants do tend to minimize the color effects of the helix, however we design our coolants to be a bit on the pale side so that the helices shine through better. Keep in mind, UV green reacts the most out of all UV colors. So, a UV green helix in UV blue coolant will look good, because you can see the blue coolant, but the helix will have a distinct glow. However, a blue helix in a green coolant will often be overpowered. Other combinations don't really suffer from that the same way. I've seen some good combinations of UV blue and red, UV red and orange, UV purple and blue, etc.


----------



## VSG

That helixed novacore extreme actually looks nice, not as "busy" as I thought it might be.


----------



## drfouad

Alright here is what I want to do
I want 
To sit on my midplate as is running across from front to back as opposed to traditional vertical setup.
I see a channel for cathode tube, what color light is that? could we get an rgb setup in it?
Perhaps rgb leds in the middle?


----------



## Frozen-Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drfouad*
> 
> Alright here is what I want to do
> I want
> To sit on my midplate as is running across from front to back as opposed to traditional vertical setup.
> I see a channel for cathode tube, what color light is that? could we get an rgb setup in it?
> Perhaps rgb leds in the middle?


It can be whatever color cathode you want. (Red, green, blue, white, yellow, or UV).

RGB is possible through an RGB strip, but we'd have to make the inner tube a little larger than normal. (Which is doable, just extra work)

Or, alternative idea, make the inner tube solid and frosted, and use RGB 5mm LED in both ends to shoot the light into the rod. I have these in stock actually as we did something similar for a customer.


----------



## drfouad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> It can be whatever color cathode you want. (Red, green, blue, white, yellow, or UV).
> 
> RGB is possible through an RGB strip, but we'd have to make the inner tube a little larger than normal. (Which is doable, just extra work)
> 
> Or, alternative idea, make the inner tube solid and frosted, and use RGB 5mm LED in both ends to shoot the light into the rod. I have these in stock actually as we did something similar for a customer.


YES YES YES YES


----------



## JavajiveDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rtb001*
> 
> Great, I'd really appreciate some more pics. Still trying to determine which helix colors to get, and I was hoping to do an orange/green color theme, with UV green coolant.


Sorry for the slow reply. Been busy moving. Redid my loop a bit and now running my 1080 Again. Ill throw in the best Pictures i got so far. Camera not really working my way atm.









´Bad lighting, so the mb and lines dont show up to well, the res looks almost real though. Will try to get some better ones some day with better light and more time. Hope it helped a bit.


----------



## jestermx6

Started my first custom loop build and just ordered a Reaction 250mm - Silver/Dark Blue so I'll be joining the ranks soon.


----------



## maybach123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frozen-Q*
> 
> 
> 
> This is something new we tried for a customer recently. They asked what if we shoved a helix inside a NovaCore Extreme reservoir. I was hesitant at first but after putting it together I was incredibly surprised. So this is something we are going to be offering upon request only.
> .


would current NovaCore owners be able to upgrade to the helix? That looks amazing!!









Also a picture of the NovaCore in my build


----------



## jestermx6

Well my cathode won't light up fully







.










Support over at FrozenQ has been great though. Contacted them late last night and had a reply by 8:30am today and have been emailing back and forth. They are going to be sending me either a new tube, inverter or possibly both. So kudos to them for being on the ball.


----------



## Semitangible

This might have been asked already, but I have an Air 540 I'd like to put a LF reaction dual bay res into. I modded my case to have a second "pair of bays" cut, bent (chassis), and set up below the power buttons and USB connectors to do exactly this.

I know the Monsoon bay res can be mounted in vertical bays, and has a ton of ports in a bunch of different spots. But can this FrozenQ bay res do it? The Reaction res looks a lot better to me, and I'd have to imagine I can install a D5 on the back, mount it in the bays, and use the lower hole for the inlet (obviously, provided there's always enough liquid in the reservoir to exceed where the pump is).

Can anyone confirm this? Otherwise I'm looking at getting craftier than I'd like for this build...


----------



## capitaltpt

So I know this thread has been dormant for several months, but does anyone have any pictures of the LFX reservoirs with a UV LED? I'm curious as to how well they light up compared to the LF Reaction since they only use a single LED at one end. Preferably in a 230 or 250 size.


----------



## ckoons1

Hey guys

I got a great deal on a 400mm frozenq reservoir and I notice the port holes are partially

blocked by the helix is this normal? Actually the helix is about an inch below the

bottom of the port hole so shouldn't be an issue but would rather be safe then sorry.

Thank you


----------



## ashwinp

Hi all,

Quick question how fast did you get your products from frozenq ? I made an order on 9th Sep 2017 and order status says still waiting to be shipped. Emailed them a couple of times no responses. I am staring to get worried asked them if i need to initiate a refund but no answer.
Any feedback would be appreciated.


----------



## gh0stm4n

Frozen-Q said:


> Lots of new stuff going on around with the new LFX Reservoirs being available. If you've got one and have one installed, we'd love to see some pictures!
> 
> 
> 
> Now that the direct pump mount option is a thing, we're finding the reservoirs to be much much more versatile. To make it better, we also just switched to start using VPP755's. We thought the gunmetal grey shell and black ring really looked a lot better with the reservoir overall. We still are offering the DDC variant and are using DDC-310 black chrome pumps for those.
> 
> 
> 
> DDC-310 on an LFX 250 with a green core insert.
> 
> 
> 
> A few different variants awaiting pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> This is something new we tried for a customer recently. They asked what if we shoved a helix inside a NovaCore Extreme reservoir. I was hesitant at first but after putting it together I was incredibly surprised. So this is something we are going to be offering upon request only.
> 
> Also, I see a lot of people requesting pictures of different colored helices in different fluids. What I'm planning on doing is taking a set of pictures for this purpose, however in the meantime if you'd like to see something, please let me know and I can try and get a picture of the combo in question done faster.
> 
> In general, some UV coolants do tend to minimize the color effects of the helix, however we design our coolants to be a bit on the pale side so that the helices shine through better. Keep in mind, UV green reacts the most out of all UV colors. So, a UV green helix in UV blue coolant will look good, because you can see the blue coolant, but the helix will have a distinct glow. However, a blue helix in a green coolant will often be overpowered. Other combinations don't really suffer from that the same way. I've seen some good combinations of UV blue and red, UV red and orange, UV purple and blue, etc.



How the heck do you disassemble the NovaCore Extreme in order to put a helix insert in there? Are the end caps of the reservoir glued on, or are they just really tight and need some additional force and torque to remove them?


----------

