# General GeForce 210 vmod thread



## just_nuke_em

I'm going to get this started with an Asus EN210 SILENT/DI/1GB3/V2(LP).

This is a 218 core card. 1GB GDDR3. Stock vcore is 0.9v-1v, vmem is 1.5v

On the front of the card, the power deliver is on the left side of the card. We can see 5 large capacitors, 4 mosfets, and two inductors. The largest caps on the left are the 12v rail input filter caps, rated for 16v @ 270uF. Following the power flow, we see 4 mosfets, 1 high and 1 low for each vcore and vmem. This board has only 1 phase per voltage. Next we see the inductors for each phase. Then we see the output filter caps, rated for 3v @ 820uF.

Mods outlined:

Vmem vrm controller is on the back of the card. Chip is a uP6101 http://www.rom.by/files/uP6101.pdf
From the datasheet, we see the FB pin is 6. Measuring from pin6 to ground shows ~536ohms, so I will use a 10k vr for this mod. The ground mod point can be taken off a nearby capacitor or pin3 on the chip is ground. Either works.

The vcore vrm controller is on the front side of the card. Same chip as the mem controller. Measuring pin6 to ground shows ~931ohm, so I will use a 20k vr for this mod. not a lot of other ground point around, so pin3 looks good for this one.

Lots of vcore and vmem read points on the back of the card. There are lots others, so speak up if you want more.





Direct link to high res:
front: http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c1/c17fc814_2012-10-2221.43.07.jpeg
back: http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2c/2c47959c_2012-10-2221.48.06.jpeg


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## battlecryawesome

Very nice Dan, I need to find someone to mod one for me.


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## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> I'm going to get this started with an Asus EN210 SILENT/DI/1GB3/V2(LP).
> This is a 218 core card. 1GB GDDR3. Stock vcore is 0.9v-1v, vmem is 1.5v
> On the front of the card, the power deliver is on the left side of the card. We can see 5 large capacitors, 4 mosfets, and two inductors. The largest caps on the left are the 12v rail input filter caps, rated for 16v @ 270uF. Following the power flow, we see 4 mosfets, 1 high and 1 low for each vcore and vmem. This board has only 1 phase per voltage. Next we see the inductors for each phase. Then we see the output filter caps, rated for 3v @ 820uF.
> Mods outlined:
> Vmem vrm controller is on the back of the card. Chip is a uP6101 http://www.rom.by/files/uP6101.pdf
> From the datasheet, we see the FB pin is 6. Measuring from pin6 to ground shows ~536ohms, so I will use a 10k vr for this mod. The ground mod point can be taken off a nearby capacitor or pin3 on the chip is ground. Either works.
> The vcore vrm controller is on the front side of the card. Same chip as the mem controller. Measuring pin6 to ground shows ~931ohm, so I will use a 20k vr for this mod. not a lot of other ground point around, so pin3 looks good for this one.
> Lots of vcore and vmem read points on the back of the card. There are lots others, so speak up if you want more.
> 
> 
> Direct link to high res:
> front: http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c1/c17fc814_2012-10-2221.43.07.jpeg
> back: http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2c/2c47959c_2012-10-2221.48.06.jpeg


Got my 1Gb & 512Mb Asus silent 210s today, my 1Gb has the exact same model # & rev. # as yours here, but has different voltage controllers. Both cards have APW7165 controllers, no uP6101s. They do still use the same pin 6 for FB & pin 3 for ground though.


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## just_nuke_em

What does your 512 have? Mine have little square 16 pin chips with a few letters and numbers that don't mean anything as far as what chip they are.


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## FtW 420

My 512 mem ICs are Micron D9MNJ, 1Gb card has samsung. Tested the 1Gb, core is decent but memory topped out at 688Mhz stock volts. Haven't tried the 512 yet.


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## just_nuke_em

Err, I ment for the vrm controllers


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## FtW 420

On the 512Mb looks like APW7165 for gpu, & either APW7165 or uP7706 but I think the 7165 is the mem controller.


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## just_nuke_em

Derp. I'm a moron, didn't even take the heatsink off and look at my card







. Two little chips on the back must be mosfet drivers.

Same controllers as mine, mod details to follow.


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## Voltage_Drop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> My 512 mem ICs are Micron D9MNJ, 1Gb card has samsung. Tested the 1Gb, core is decent but memory topped out at 688Mhz stock volts. Haven't tried the 512 yet.


I bet the D9's will scream on the little 210


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## just_nuke_em

Next up is an Asus EN210 SILENT/DI/512MD3(LP).

Stock votlages:
core: .9-1v
mem: 1.49v

So this card is a bit tricky. There where a few chips on the top of the board that looked like contollers, but turned out to be linear regulators. The vrm controllers are on the bottom of the board, and are small little 16 pin square chips. There where just a few letters/numbers on the chips, but nothing that could tell me what they where. So a blind mod was attempted. The bottom inductor goes to the core, the top to the mem. The chips are located on the back near their respective inductors.

I measured all 16 pins for resistence to ground, looking for something that would give me an indication of feedback resistance (mainly looking for something in the 2k or less value). On the bottom chip, I found a pin with 1.1k to ground. It also had 1.1k to the inductor, so this looked like appeared to be the FB pin (if there was not a similar resistance value from the pin to the inductor, it would not have been FB). Probed around the chip and found two suitable solder points. Using a 10k vr, I was able to change the voltage up! Success!







. Core ran about 930mhz in Aquamark with 1.2v, staying below 50C.

The mem chip appeared to be the exact same chip, so I measured the resistance in the same place. It read 4.8k to ground and 4.8k to it's inductor. A bit high, but the other controller worked, so this one should too. I will use a 50k vr on this one. Have not tried the mod yet.










More details to follow.


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## rafety58

Hey ocn, I am interested in trying out volt modding for the first time.
My card is the BFG GeForce GT 210 Link It is using the 218 core with ddr2 memory
I got this card on sale about a year ago for 15 dollars, for the HTPC. It has been replaced with a 450 gts, so I dont care in the least if I fry the card

If more pics are needed just tell me and I'll be happy to upload them


Spoiler: GPU-Z









Spoiler: Front pics










Spoiler: Back pics











Spoiler: cooling method


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## just_nuke_em

Do you have a voltmeter?


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## rafety58

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Do you have a voltmeter?


on hand no I do not, but I should be able to borrow one from a friend. sadly I don't know how long that will take


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## just_nuke_em

Very nice pictures









Here are the mod points and read points. Both controllers are the same, so the mods are identical. Without a certain resistance readings, it will be a somewhat blind mod. I've dealt with these exact same controllers before, but every application is different. I've used a 10k vr in the past on these.

Resistance reading needed for a proper/good mod:

-resistance value from pin 4 to ground, on each controller. This is to size the vr properly for the resistance that is on the board.
-resistence reading from points labled 1,2,3,4 to the inductor pin shown. This is to find out which controller is for vcore and vmem. Alternately, you could just measure the voltage at the inductor pin.

Mod details. FB pin is 4, a good ground pin is 12. 7 works also. Connect your vr from 4 to 12. Voltage read points are on the positive leg of the output filter caps, the inductor pin closest to the core, or the other solder ball near the controller (you can see the PCB trace from the inductor output power plane back to the controller).



High res: http://cdn.overclock.net/1/14/146cde21_untitled.png


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## rafety58

Thanks for the info just_nuke_em rep+ to you

I'll grab that voltmeter off of my buddy in a few days and take a whack at it


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## H3||scr3am

Thanks for the guide Nuke_em,

plan to use it on my ASUS silent when it arrives next week









Also, I have 20k trim pots, but no 10ks, do I need a 10k, or can I use 20ks for both?

H3||scr3am


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## just_nuke_em

10k is ideal, but 20k will work. If it's a single turn pot, then things will get difficult since the vr will only start to take effect when it reaches 10k ohms and lower. At that point you are already halfway through the range of the pot. A multiturn pot would be better.


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## H3||scr3am

They're 20 turn trims, so I'll still have ~10 turns left I suppose


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## just_nuke_em

You will have plenty of resolution with a 20 turn, even if it is a 20k


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## EpicAMDGamer

Wow these soder points are tiny. I don't think I can do this.


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## H3||scr3am

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> Wow these soder points are tiny. I don't think I can do this.


get as many points as you can stock (sandbag a bit, perhaps), then if you can do without the card, go for broke attempting to mod it... maybe someone will be ultra nice and find a way to pencil mod it or something...


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## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> Wow these soder points are tiny. I don't think I can do this.


I haven't modded the 1gb yet. I'll look around and see if I can find the resistor for a pencil mod.


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## Rasparthe

Here is my Gigabyte 210:


Spoiler: Back of GPU







IC Numbers:

1 - UP6103ASU8
2 - Cannot read this IC, if need might be able to take a picture and zoom it in
3- UP7706U8
4- UP7706U8
5- UP6103ASU8
6- AHCT125 - OROX408 - UXD11 - 16B



Spoiler: UP7706U8 Datasheet



datasheet.pdf 408k .pdf file






Spoiler: Front of GPU







I can't find a datasheet for uP6103 but I have attached the one for uP7706, not sure which one is the vMem or vCore. What do you think Nuke'em?


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## just_nuke_em

1 and 5 are definitely your controllers, 5 is core and 1 is mem. There is no datasheet for 6103, but there is a UPI power point on a chinese website if you search google for "up6103" http://wenku.baidu.com/view/f4194301b52acfc789ebc9e5.html page 13 shows pinouts. Pin6 is FB on that chip, pin3 is ground. Same controller on MGF Derp's card.

If you could, please measure resistance for us









The 7706 is a linear regulator. Seen multiple linear regualtors on a couple of cards now. Some might be VDDQ on the mem chips. If so, there will be a 0 ohm connection from pin6 to one of the capacitors around the mem chips. Pin7 would be the mod point on that chip, if you so desire.

The AHCT125 is a buffer chip.

Let me know if you need voltage read points







. Also, if you want me to draw the mod on the pictures, I need to know which is pin1 on chip 1 & 5.

Some other stuff: looks like the inductor on the left side is part of the input circuit from the 12v. Probably there to stablilise the current going into the main core buck converter. Will be interesting if that helps your card at all.


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## MGF Derp

Pencil mod FTMFW if someone can figure it out.


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## coachmark2

http://www.overclock.net/t/1319781/newegg-nvidia-geforce-gt-210-19-99-ar/0_50#post_18445994


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## H3||scr3am

My trim pots are actually 25 turn so even better









Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note on Jellybean using tapatalk 2


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## EpicAMDGamer

WOOO HOOOO! I've done it!!!

I didn't think I could but I sodered on some wire for memory voltage reading and I even sodered the two wires for the memory mod!

Oh and would a 20K or 50K 25turn trimmer thing be okay because that's what I ordered, I don't have a 10K.

I'll Post Pics


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## just_nuke_em

Excellent









20k wll be better than 50k. Assuming you set it to the full 20k when you attach it, you will have to turn it halfway (~12 turns) or more before it starts to make any difference. Not a bad thing, but something to be aware of so you don't go and turn it a few times and wonder why nothing is happening.


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## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Excellent
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20k wll be better than 50k. Assuming you set it to the full 20k when you attach it, you will have to turn it halfway (~12 turns) or more before it starts to make any difference. Not a bad thing, but something to be aware of so you don't go and turn it a few times and wonder why nothing is happening.


Just noticed you do have a core voltage mod, I only saw the memory one. Looks like I'll have to soder more wires for the core voltage mod.

I have a question, could I use the same ground for the memory and core trimmers, because it'd be a lot easier than sodering on that tiny pin 3.

And I ordered a 20K and 50K 25 turns pots, which should i use for what? (eg 20K for gpu and 50K for mem?)


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## just_nuke_em

Yes, you can use the same ground wire.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> And I ordered a 20K and 50K 25 turns pots, which should i use for what? (eg 20K for gpu and 50K for mem?)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Measuring pin6 to ground shows ~931ohm, so I will use a 20k vr for this mod.


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## splashdwn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Got my 1Gb & 512Mb Asus silent 210s today, my 1Gb has the exact same model # & rev. # as yours here, but has different voltage controllers. Both cards have APW7165 controllers, no uP6101s. They do still use the same pin 6 for FB & pin 3 for ground though.


Ya got the same controllers as you but i got samsung memory


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## EpicAMDGamer

Finished sodering everything to the card, now I have voltage read points for both gpu and memory and I also have the wires ready for when I recieve my trim pots.

Just noticed when not in use the card's core is .84V but then goes to 1V under load.


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## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> Just noticed when not in use the card's core is .84V but then goes to 1V under load.


Mine acts similar. It appears to be a setting in the bios that does that.


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## exploiteddna

here is my PNY 1gb card

im only seeing one controller.. the uP1563P ... no ICs or SMDs on the back.. cant find the datasheet for it









micron d9mgg


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## CL3P20

well at least you only got 8x 14x legs to poke at!

Find ground first.. then see if you can find a pin that matches resistance found at closest inductor.


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## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CL3P20*
> 
> well at least you only got 8x legs to poke at!
> 
> Find ground first.. then see if you can find a pin that matches resistance found at closest inductor.


Hi. I'm learning very slowly about electronics here and there but it seems apparent I should learn faster so I can be better at benchmarking and HWBOT.

Can you describe in more detail how I would go about finding out how to volt mod a card?


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## CL3P20

lolz.. Im not paying attention.

1st - do you have a digital multi-meter?

You need to check continuity using "beep" function and find resistance at the GPUv inductors


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## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CL3P20*
> 
> lolz.. Im not paying attention.
> 
> 1st - do you have a digital multi-meter?
> 
> You need to check continuity using "beep" function and find resistance at the GPUv inductors


Yeah I got a multimeter (real crap one from ebay lol) and surprisingly.... an oscilloscope, which I barely know how to use (got it for free







)

So I need to see what pins on the little IC have continuity with the inductor, right? (which in this case should be pin 6)


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## CL3P20

and how about resistance levels.. does the ~resistance at the inductor match pin6


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## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CL3P20*
> 
> and how about resistance levels.. does the ~resistance at the inductor match pin6


Do you mean measure from ground to inductor and ground to pin 6 and see if it matches?


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## CL3P20

correct.


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## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CL3P20*
> 
> correct.


Okay ground to pin 6 is about 539ohms but then ground to either side of the inductor is only like 30ohms. I'm a bit confused.


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## k4m1k4z3

Ok, I am very new to this, here is what I have (bought it a year ago for real cheap)
EN210 SILENT/DI/512MD2(LP)
So it is an ASUS 512MB DDR2 card, 218 Core, has hynix memory
Is this memory going to be a big hindrance on the cards capability? Should I just buy a new card that has DDR3 on it?



Front of card:

I am having trouble reading any of the numbers on the chips. I will need to find a magnifying glass or something. Any suggestion on which chips are important to get the numbers off of?

Back of card:


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## just_nuke_em

Please read the #'s on the chips marked in yellow


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## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> Okay ground to pin 6 is about 539ohms but then ground to either side of the inductor is only like 30ohms. I'm a bit confused.


That is the same reading I saw on my card (same card as I show in post #2). The pin to inductor resistance doesn't matter as much on this card since the datasheet is known, the FB pin is known, and the mod is known to work (I already did it and it works great







).


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## k4m1k4z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Please read the #'s on the chips marked in yellow


two different numbers on the chips, but both chips are same.

uP6101AS8
VGB821


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## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k4m1k4z3*
> 
> two different numbers on the chips, but both chips are same.
> uP6101AS8
> VGB821


So they both have up6101 on them?


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## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> That is the same reading I saw on my card (same card as I show in post #2). The pin to inductor resistance doesn't matter as much on this card since the datasheet is known, the FB pin is known, and the mod is known to work (I already did it and it works great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Yeah but I want to know for future refrence so if I get a card I can just do this stuff myself.


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## just_nuke_em

Stay tuned then. I'm trying to write an in depth guide on how to go about doing it all: from understanding what the circuit is meant to do, to understanding what you see on the board, and then translating that into doing your own mods without guides


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## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Stay tuned then. I'm trying to write an in depth guide on how to go about doing it all: from understanding what the circuit is meant to do, to understanding what you see on the board, and then translating that into doing your own mods without guides


YEEEEESSS! This is exactly what I want. When will this be done and how much do I have to know before hand?


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## k4m1k4z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> So they both have up6101 on them?


exactly


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## just_nuke_em

Alright, both those chips are the same as the one done here in post #2: http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2c/2c47959c_2012-10-2221.48.06.jpeg Pin 6 is the FB pin. Wire a 10k VR from there to ground on both chips, pin3 on those chips can work as a good ground point.

If you would like me to draw on the picture, I would need high quality photos or at the very least an indication on where pin1 is (there will be a dot next to it or an indent at one end of the chip).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> When will this be done and how much do I have to know before hand?


When I have time







. A brief knowledge of voltage and resistance, electrical componets, and how to use a multimeter and know what it's readings mean. Some of which I will go over, but I will expect people to have some pre existing knowledge as I will be going into some circuit theory.


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## CL3P20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CL3P20*
> 
> correct.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay ground to pin 6 is about 539ohms but then ground to either side of the inductor is only like 30ohms. I'm a bit confused.
Click to expand...

Poke around the IC.. look for ~30 ohms as you indicated from inductor. Make sure to measure other inductor if there is one as well.. just to verify your on GPUv circuit and vMEM


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## PCEnthusiast85

can anyone give a newbie a quick def. of what all this "volt mod"is....what it does? and why is it worth it?
i have flashed the bios on my 460s but this seems ALOT more scary.... even if its on a 20 dolla gfx card.

im very excited to do a cheap-o competition as my pockets are tiny!! great way for new fellas like me to get in on some fun times.


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## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCEnthusiast85*
> 
> can anyone give a newbie a quick def. of what all this "volt mod"is....what it does? and why is it worth it?
> i have flashed the bios on my 460s but this seems ALOT more scary.... even if its on a 20 dolla gfx card.
> im very excited to do a cheap-o competition as my pockets are tiny!! great way for new fellas like me to get in on some fun times.


On these cheap cards, there is a chip that controls the circuits that changes the 12v from the psu, to the lower voltages that the core and memory use. Since these are cheap cards, the manufactures don't use the expensive chips that have the option of using software to change the voltage. Thus the only way for use to change the voltage, is to modify the control circuitry of the voltage regulator.

This is done by changing the feedback loop resistance of the controller chip. The output voltage is reduced between two resistors and feed into the FB pin on the chip. As this voltage at the FB pin moves around, the chip will increase/decrease the output voltage to compensate. What these mods do it change the feedback resistance so that the chip sees the voltage at the FB pin as lower than it should be. The chip then increases the output voltage to try and get the FB voltage up. As a result, we get higher voltages at the core and memory, and thus higher overclocks


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## k4m1k4z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Alright, both those chips are the same as the one done here in post #2: http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2c/2c47959c_2012-10-2221.48.06.jpeg Pin 6 is the FB pin. Wire a 10k VR from there to ground on both chips, pin3 on those chips can work as a good ground point.


In that post, you said to use a 10k pot on one and a 20k pot on the other.
your vmem was 536 and the vcore was 931.
I measured the resistance on my chips, one was 506ohms, the other was 712ohms
would my vmem vrm be the 506ohms one? and the vcore be the one reading 712?

so would a 10k pot be right to use for both of those or would it be better to have a 10 and a 20? I have never done this before so I am trying to understand... does lower resistance mean higher volts? so a 10k would allow me to have higher volts than a 20k?


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## PizzaMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k4m1k4z3*
> 
> In that post, you said to use a 10k pot on one and a 20k pot on the other.
> your vmem was 536 and the vcore was 931.
> I measured the resistance on my chips, one was 506ohms, the other was 712ohms
> would my vmem vrm be the 506ohms one? and the vcore be the one reading 712?
> so would a 10k pot be right to use for both of those or would it be better to have a 10 and a 20? I have never done this before so I am trying to understand... does lower resistance mean higher volts? so a 10k would allow me to have higher volts than a 20k?


You can use 10K for both. Using a 20K just means you'll have to turn the VR more turns. Putting a 10K will result in a higher bump with the VR tuned to max voltage then putting a 20K on.

I'm doing 10K and 20K on mine. Mostly because I'm getting a little low on both. Have two cards to mod for splashdown and didn't want to use all four of my remaining 10K's.


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## PizzaMan

Double post for mod pics









Extra read point is for what I think is PLL.


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## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PizzaMan*
> 
> Double post for mod pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Extra read point is for what I think is PLL.


WOW that looks 100% better than mine lol. Yours looks so perfect and professional and mine looks like a scrambled mess, oh well, as long as it works.

I'll try to get some pictures of it soon, probably after I get the POT's and soder them onto the wires I have ready for them.


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## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PizzaMan*
> 
> Extra read point is for what I think is PLL.


Ooo, I think you're right.

That other uP chip on the top left might be VDDQ for the mem also...


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## PizzaMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Ooo, I think you're right.
> That other uP chip on the top left might be VDDQ for the mem also...


Possibly....... Just tried bumping vMEM and zero gains... Might need to mod this other one.....

EDIT: My eyes are reading UP0109....is that right?

Double edit: Small bump in vMEM does crap. Hope it does something cold with lots of V's..... Core scales like mad with voltage though. Did 915Mhz with 1.05v on stock cooler. 37C load temps.


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## EpicAMDGamer

Allright so I got my trim POT's today. I have a 25turn 20K and a 25turn 50K, which should I use for memory and which for the core?

And when I turn it on the first time, should I have the pot's set at a certian point. I mean I dont want to turn on the card and have it fry itself.


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## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> Allright so I got my trim POT's today. I have a 25turn 20K and a 25turn 50K, which should I use for memory and which for the core?
> And when I turn it on the first time, should I have the pot's set at a certian point. I mean I dont want to turn on the card and have it fry itself.


I'd use the 20k on the core, and the 50k on the mem.

For the pot, first determine how you want to turn it to change the voltage. Let's say you want to turn the pot cw for it to increase voltage. Therefore you want to start the pot in the ccw direction. Turn your pot ccw 25 turns or until it starts making little clicking noises (which means it is at the end). At this point, find the two legs that read the max resistance (make sure one of the legs is the middle one). From the middle to one leg should be ~0ohms and the middle to the other leg should be 20k or 50k (depending on which pot you are using). The pair of legs that meaures to the max are the two that you solder to. Thus when you put the pot in the circuit, the resistance is maxed and therefor will not affect the circuit drasticly.

Once you solder the pot in, do the same resistance measurement from the FB pin to ground. If the resistance is approximately the same (should be a little less), then your mod should not damage anything.


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## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> I'd use the 20k on the core, and the 50k on the mem.
> For the pot, first determine how you want to turn it to change the voltage. Let's say you want to turn the pot cw for it to increase voltage. Therefore you want to start the pot in the ccw direction. Turn your pot ccw 25 turns or until it starts making little clicking noises (which means it is at the end). At this point, find the two legs that read the max resistance (make sure one of the legs is the middle one). From the middle to one leg should be ~0ohms and the middle to the other leg should be 20k or 50k (depending on which pot you are using). The pair of legs that meaures to the max are the two that you solder to. Thus when you put the pot in the circuit, the resistance is maxed and therefor will not affect the circuit drasticly.
> Once you solder the pot in, do the same resistance measurement from the FB pin to ground. If the resistance is approximately the same (should be a little less), then your mod should not damage anything.


Uh oh. I was impatient so I tried to hook this up before you posted. I turned it on and I get .08 volts on the core and no video and no matter how I turn it it says at .08 volts.

EDIT: Removed the pot, it booted fine at .89 volts. Thank god.


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> I'd use the 20k on the core, and the 50k on the mem.
> For the pot, first determine how you want to turn it to change the voltage. Let's say you want to turn the pot cw for it to increase voltage. Therefore you want to start the pot in the ccw direction. Turn your pot ccw 25 turns or until it starts making little clicking noises (which means it is at the end). At this point, find the two legs that read the max resistance (make sure one of the legs is the middle one). From the middle to one leg should be ~0ohms and the middle to the other leg should be 20k or 50k (depending on which pot you are using). The pair of legs that meaures to the max are the two that you solder to. Thus when you put the pot in the circuit, the resistance is maxed and therefor will not affect the circuit drasticly.
> Once you solder the pot in, do the same resistance measurement from the FB pin to ground. If the resistance is approximately the same (should be a little less), then your mod should not damage anything.


Okay I did this and if I measure the resistance between the two wires going to the POT when the pot is attached and the DMM is set to the 20K scale it shows 0.89 on the display. Is this correct?

EDIT: okay so I'm booting with the vcore mod installed. Seems to be booting at about the same voltage as stock. I'm going to now turn the pot.


----------



## k4m1k4z3

For the pots, does it matter how many watts they are? my local radioshack only had .1 watt 10k pots.


----------



## just_nuke_em

No, wattage does not matter. Thses parts don't carry large currents.


----------



## k4m1k4z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> No, wattage does not matter. Thses parts don't carry large currents.


Great.

And one more question before I get to work soldering...
why do we use 10k instead of 1k?

when I measure the resistance on the vrm on the card it reads as .712 k ohms. when I measure the resistance on the pot, it is showing 9.84 k ohms
Isnt that quite a difference?


----------



## just_nuke_em

You want the big difference. A large resistance in parallel with a small resistance does not change the overall resistance of the circuit very much. You want the significant change to happen when you turn the pot, not after you solder it it. To understand why this is, let's look at the theory behind parallel resistance.

Parallel resistence is calculated as R3 = 1 / (1/R1 + 1/R2 ). In our case R1 will be the orignal resistance measured, R2 will be the resistance added by the pot, and R3 is the new resistance. If you go through and put some values in for R1 and R2, you will find that R3 will be closer to the lower of R1 and R2. Example: R1=10ohm, R2=200ohm, R3 will then be 9.5ohm. So we see that large resistance in parallel with small resistance is very similar to the small resistance. Now if R2 =50ohm, R3 goes down to 8.33ohm. In general if R2 is x20 R1, then it does not drasticaly affect the circuit.

For your case, you measure R1=0.712k. If you use R2=1k then your new resistance is R3=416ohm, which is a very large drop in resistance (for this kind of circuit). That kind of drop might add .5v to the core, which is a lot. By using a 10k, R3 is only 665ohm, which is not as drastic and might add only .1 or .05v to the core.


----------



## ionstorm66

I got the Gigabyte GV-N210D3-1GI rev 3, it has 2 uP1504T and 1 uP0104P. Any idea which lead I should check? I goggled the part and got nothing.


----------



## just_nuke_em

I can't find any datasheets for those parts, but the uP1504 chips are the controllers. I can help you do a blind mod though. Pick one of the controllers and measure the resistance from every pin to ground, and report back the values here.


----------



## PizzaMan

^^^^ and pics help to


----------



## ionstorm66

Will do I was trying it out without the mods. I put my cooler from my 9800 on it, it looks ridiculous. The cooler is an easy 3x the surface area of the card. I zip tied 2 92mm Deltas to it that are with 160cfm, should be enough cooling lol.

This is the cooler: http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/vga/002/scvms1000_detail.html

Fits on my 210 like a glove.


----------



## PizzaMan

All I have to say is this card is trash now.... Zero results....


----------



## Rasparthe

Dead? First casualty of the contest?


----------



## PizzaMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasparthe*
> 
> Dead? First casualty of the contest?


Not completely dead, but degraded to the point that it will not handle 3d at stock anymore.


----------



## CL3P20

chipped core?

or just "finding out" how it does/doesnt scale with 300% voltage increase?


----------



## PizzaMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CL3P20*
> 
> chipped core?
> 
> or just "finding out" how it does/doesnt scale with 300% voltage increase?


IDK what happened. I know I had a bad mount first freeze attempted. Only tried 1.25v on the core. Couldn't get it to do anything. First I thought it was hating the cold or I had water in the slot already. Tore it down and noticed the tim was squished real bad to one side and the die had pour contact. Removed everything and put the stock cooler on. Card continued to act the same with stock clocks and cooler.


----------



## Voltage_Drop

Glad to see you guys still modding







Poor little 210 never thought it would have a young deep freeze attached to it. PizzaMan's card looks like its about to get hit by the Titanic


----------



## jjjc_93

This is why you don't mod at 1 in the morning. Use 2 10k pots as you don't have a 20k, only to realise you've now run out of pots for the mem mod now and need to make a trip tomorrow anyway.










Also hitting 85-95c very quickly with just 1.050v for some reason so it looks like it's time to strap on a pot and watch it die.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjjc_93*
> 
> TAlso hitting 85-95c very quickly with just 1.050v for some reason


That's not right at all. Think you may have a different issue...


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> That's not right at all. Think you may have a different issue...


Yeah mine never got over 50 really.


----------



## jjjc_93

Yeah I got it sorted, forgot to apply TIM before applying the cooler again. Facepalm.

Loading in the mid 40's with 1.15v now.


----------



## exploiteddna

those are some nice looking vr pots you got there jj
ive seen them available for purchase before but never seen anyone actually use them for a mod


----------



## exploiteddna

.


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Okay so I have the 1GB asus version. How many volts can I crank into this memory because it seems to be very crappy with stock voltage or even 1.6 volts.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> Okay so I have the 1GB asus version. How many volts can I crank into this memory because it seems to be very crappy with stock voltage or even 1.6 volts.


the 1gb cards are just bad, lucky to get +100 on the mem at any volts


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> the 1gb cards are just bad, lucky to get +100 on the mem at any volts


Well while I'm at it, how much will the core take (if kept cool)?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> Well while I'm at it, how much will the core take (if kept cool)?


im not sure should be good but the mem will suck


----------



## Rasparthe

So I went and bought a Asus 512 DDR3 Silent, figuring the mod would be the same as your 1GB posted earlier in the thread but it appears different. I think that the circuitry is labelled the same but your PU1 and PU2 area are on the back of the card. I attached a couple of pics but they are crappy ones from a cell phone camera until I can get my hands on a higher res one. The 512 version only has PU2 on the back of the card. PU1 is on the front of the card. The interesting thing is that on those areas I see two ICs labelled APW7165A, I've attached the datasheet for them. Would I simply put a VR on the Pin 6 to ground (or am I wrongly assuming what a buck controller does?) Also reading the datasheet am I going to have to worry about OVP?





APW7165.pdf 408k .pdf file


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasparthe*
> 
> The interesting thing is that on those areas I see two ICs labelled APW7165A, I've attached the datasheet for them. Would I simply put a VR on the Pin 6 to ground (or am I wrongly assuming what a buck controller does?)


Just looks like a slightly different layout, duno why. Yes, the mod is from pin6 to ground, size is based on what you read form pin6 though. I duno what you assume a buck controller does, but what is does do is converts the high voltage down to what the chip needs (bucks the voltage down, as oppsed to a boost converter)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasparthe*
> 
> Also reading the datasheet am I going to have to worry about OVP?


From the datasheet:
Quote:


> The over-voltage protection monitors the FB voltage to prevent the output from over-voltage condition. When the output voltage rises above 120% of the nominal output voltage, the APW7165 turns off the high-side MOSFET and turns on the low-side MOSFET until the output voltage falls below the falling OVP threshold, regulating the output voltage around the OVP threshold.


Since we are reducing the voltage at FB using the vr mod (which makes the chip think the output is too low and increases it to return FB to normal), the only time you will see OVP is if you get a spike in the output. If that happens, then you are really need to be adding more phases









OCP might be an issue, but I haven't encountered it yet.


----------



## Rasparthe

Okay, I see this card is more like your 1GB version and your 512 version is different. Mixed up your mod pictures. I'm reading almost identical ohms on this card (946 on the mem and 534 on the core). So 10K on the Mem and 20K on the Core should work. Other random question though. Is there a reason that you use Pin3 for ground and not just run a wire to any suitable place for ground, even the slot bracket that is easier to attach a wire to. For me, every solder on an IC is risky so why take the chance unless there is a good reason for it? Thanks again, will post some high res once the mod is done or the card is dead.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasparthe*
> 
> Other random question though. Is there a reason that you use Pin3 for ground and not just run a wire to any suitable place for ground, even the slot bracket that is easier to attach a wire to. For me, every solder on an IC is risky so why take the chance unless there is a good reason for it?


No reason, just felt like doing it like that







. I do like soldering to those 8 pin chips, they're good people.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> No reason, just felt like doing it like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I do like soldering to those 8 pin chips, they're good people.


This. After soldering the tiny little resistors & pads needed for some mods, those ICs have some pretty roomy soldering points. I'll probably ground near the back of the card & run a wire to the IC for FB though, I like the VRs at the back for easy access. Learned the hard way that long hair can be bad leaning over the mobo when fans are running so I don't want them near the bracket behind a cooler where I have to look down at them.


----------



## PizzaMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Just looks like a slightly different layout, duno why. Yes, the mod is from pin6 to ground, size is based on what you read form pin6 though. I duno what you assume a buck controller does, but what is does do is converts the high voltage down to what the chip needs (bucks the voltage down, as oppsed to a boost converter)
> From the datasheet:
> Since we are reducing the voltage at FB using the vr mod (which makes the chip think the output is too low and increases it to return FB to normal), the only time you will see OVP is if you get a spike in the output. If that happens, then you are really need to be adding more phases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OCP might be an issue, but I haven't encountered it yet.


You have DS for APW7165? Please do share, I couldn't find that one.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PizzaMan*
> 
> You have DS for APW7165? Please do share, I couldn't find that one.


 APW7165.pdf 408k .pdf file


----------



## PizzaMan

Awesome thanks.


----------



## sunset1

wow thanks guys for the posts.. im glad im not the first one asking questions ... i need to read up and take a look at the cards. I have the msi omg this has to be a new revision as the chips are sooo small. And all components on top side. Ill post more when i have time. I have other cards and parts comming.. my best card got cancled after 5 days. moving forward. :>

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127676 sorry i misposted.. .
sunset1


----------



## just_nuke_em

This your card?


----------



## k4m1k4z3

I just got my new card in; MSI N210-MD1G/D3


It has all circuitry on the top of the card.
uP1504T x 2
uP0105P

I find the resistance on the uP1504T VRMs are .760 and .606 on legs 6 so I am guessing these are for memory and core?

Any ideas what the uP0105P does if the other 2 are for core and mem?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



The uP0105 is a 2A ultra low dropout linear regulator specifically designed for motherboard, notebook and graphic card applications. This device works with dual supplies, a control input for the control circuitry and a power input as low as 1.2V for providing current to output. The uP0105 delivers high-current and ultra-low-drop output voltage as low as 0.8V for applications where VOUT is very close to VIN.

The uP0105 features comprehensive control and protection functions: a power on reset (POR) circuit for monitoring both control and power inputs for proper operation; an EN input for enabling or disabling the device, a power OK with time delay for indicating the output voltage status, a foldback current limit function, and a thermal shutdown function.

The uP0105 is available in PSOP-8L or WDFN3x3-10L packages with very low thermal resistance.



One big difference from my ASUS card that I am noticing is less caps and other stuff...


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> This your card?


if you were referring to me.. i misposted the name of the card.. this is the card ill take the heat sink off later.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127676


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k4m1k4z3*
> 
> I just got my new card in; MSI N210-MD1G/D3
> 
> It has all circuitry on the top of the card.
> uP1504T x 2
> uP0105P
> I find the resistance on the uP1504T VRMs are .760 and .606 on legs 6 so I am guessing these are for memory and core?
> Any ideas what the uP0105P does if the other 2 are for core and mem?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The uP0105 is a 2A ultra low dropout linear regulator specifically designed for motherboard, notebook and graphic card applications. This device works with dual supplies, a control input for the control circuitry and a power input as low as 1.2V for providing current to output. The uP0105 delivers high-current and ultra-low-drop output voltage as low as 0.8V for applications where VOUT is very close to VIN.
> The uP0105 features comprehensive control and protection functions: a power on reset (POR) circuit for monitoring both control and power inputs for proper operation; an EN input for enabling or disabling the device, a power OK with time delay for indicating the output voltage status, a foldback current limit function, and a thermal shutdown function.
> The uP0105 is available in PSOP-8L or WDFN3x3-10L packages with very low thermal resistance.
> 
> 
> One big difference from my ASUS card that I am noticing is less caps and other stuff...


I'm not having any luck finding a datasheet for that up1504 controller. Have to find the drive where my DS collection is saved & see if I have that one.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k4m1k4z3*
> 
> I just got my new card in; MSI N210-MD1G/D3
> 
> It has all circuitry on the top of the card.
> uP1504T x 2
> uP0105P
> I find the resistance on the uP1504T VRMs are .760 and .606 on legs 6 so I am guessing these are for memory and core?
> Any ideas what the uP0105P does if the other 2 are for core and mem?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The uP0105 is a 2A ultra low dropout linear regulator specifically designed for motherboard, notebook and graphic card applications. This device works with dual supplies, a control input for the control circuitry and a power input as low as 1.2V for providing current to output. The uP0105 delivers high-current and ultra-low-drop output voltage as low as 0.8V for applications where VOUT is very close to VIN.
> The uP0105 features comprehensive control and protection functions: a power on reset (POR) circuit for monitoring both control and power inputs for proper operation; an EN input for enabling or disabling the device, a power OK with time delay for indicating the output voltage status, a foldback current limit function, and a thermal shutdown function.
> The uP0105 is available in PSOP-8L or WDFN3x3-10L packages with very low thermal resistance.
> 
> 
> One big difference from my ASUS card that I am noticing is less caps and other stuff...


unlucky on the 1gb card


----------



## k4m1k4z3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> unlucky on the 1gb card


$15 after rebate from newegg, and I had $10 from [email protected] prize in my paypal, so im not too concerned over it.
The cooler on this card is horrible though.
Its too bad I had already killed my 512 card (though it was only ddr2, lol)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> I'm not having any luck finding a datasheet for that up1504 controller. Have to find the drive where my DS collection is saved & see if I have that one.


I think there was someone else that had them on their card (mentioned earlier in this thread) and they did not find any data sheet either.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k4m1k4z3*
> 
> I think there was someone else that had them on their card (mentioned earlier in this thread) and they did not find any data sheet either.


Yes, someone else had them, and I asked them questions on it, but never heard back.

Here is the mostly layout of your board, with the componets for the mem phase marked in blue and the componets for the core phase marked in yellow. The values that you read from pin6 doesn't nessesarily mean it is the FB pin, but we can find out. Chose one of the controllers, either mem or core, and measure resistance from pin 6 to one of the legs of their respective inductor, does not matter which leg. (so say I chose to check the core chip. I would measure from pin6 on the up1504 chip in the yellow box, to one of the legs of the inductor marked "core inductor")


----------



## sunset1

on this card if im looking at the correct components
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127676

MSI N210-MD512D3H/TC
up1503v
up1503v Edit : i misread last time.
and up0105p
nanya 1118, nt5cb64m16dp-cf memory chips

N210-MD512D3/LP
Edit i decided just to keep the card im done shoppin.
i just got the card from card central
they claimed it was 1503 mem
msi spec sheet shows 1334

sunset1


----------



## Badwrench

Ok, ready to do this. Here is what I am working with: MSI N210-MD512D3/LP

Pics:


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> *snip*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> *snip*


Both your cards are the same. The uP1503 does not have a datasheet, so I will need some measurements from you to find the mod point.

Here is the layout of your board, with the componets for the mem phase marked in blue and the componets for the core phase marked in yellow. Chose one of the controllers, either mem or core, and measure resistance from each pin to ground and post the results.


----------



## sunset1

thanks so much I have tools but its family time so it will take at least till tomorrow for me.
that second card looks a little better as it has the nayna 1119 memory chips on it.
the one i posted has 1118.
Im setting up a board for the competiton and jjust reseated the heatsinks ( tim was rock hard) with some mk-4. So ill have to take them apart after a run to see how they rock stock.
take some measurements and then ..
Then its off to clc time to see if i can get my pump/blocks on that little die.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Both your cards are the same. The uP1503 does not have a datasheet, so I will need some measurements from you to find the mod point.
> Here is the layout of your board, with the componets for the mem phase marked in blue and the componets for the core phase marked in yellow. Chose one of the controllers, either mem or core, and measure resistance from each pin to ground and post the results.


Awesome, thanks. I should be able to play with it later tonight. Do you have a preferred ground?


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> Awesome, thanks. I should be able to play with it later tonight. Do you have a preferred ground?


Easiest ground is generally the metal bracket.


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Easiest ground is generally the metal bracket.


That's what I was going to use, just wanted to confirm. This will be my first vmod.


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> That's what I was going to use, just wanted to confirm. This will be my first vmod.


Was my first as well, I'm proud of myself, I'm better at sodering that I thought.


----------



## sunset1

@epicamdgamer what size wire did you end up using and was it stranded or solid?
oh and good job. This is going to be fun. ;>


----------



## Rasparthe

Okay trying to figure out another 210 to see if I can get it myself but I'm at a wall now. There aren't any real IC of note except uP6161 which shows up as a dual buck controller/linear regulator. I guess the controller could be controlling both the vMem and the vCore? Is see Pin 4 is FB for the Buck controller and Pin 6 is FB for the Linear Regulator. Pin 4 measures 588 ohms and Pin 6 measures 1046. I'm assuming based on the Asus Silent that Pin 4 is for vMem and Pin 6 for vCore but really don't have a reason to think that other than the close proximity of the resistance. What should I measure to confirm this is the case? I can post some high res photos if need or you think the uP6161 isn't the real controller for the card.

uP6161datasheet.pdf 340k .pdf file


----------



## just_nuke_em

Actually, based on the DS, pin 4 should be for the core. The core will always take more power than the mem, and a buck converter will supply more power than the linear regulator can. Pin 4 is part of the buck controller and therefore will control the core voltage.

I assume there is only one inductor on the board? If so, there should be a ~0 ohm (or very low) connection from pin 13 to the inductor (doesn't matter which leg).

Pin 6 will be the mem FB pin.


----------



## Badwrench

Here you go Nuke_em. Hope I did this correctly. Measurements taken at 20k setting.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Looks like you might be out of range on some of those open ones. Can you dial down to the next lowest setting (I'm guessing it's 2k?) and measure the opens ones?


----------



## Onions

1gb asus silent







where do i start


----------



## just_nuke_em

Second post has all the details on that one







http://www.overclock.net/t/1319080/general-geforce-210-vmod-thread#post_18429886


----------



## Onions

ok i noticed a difference tho the cap directly below teh vga output connector is 5ks23 which is different from yours is that relevant?


----------



## just_nuke_em

It is not relevant. I believe that that value is the specific model # of the cap. It does not change the mod though.


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> @epicamdgamer what size wire did you end up using and was it stranded or solid?
> oh and good job. This is going to be fun. ;>


I used some small stranded stuff, probably about 24 or 26awg. Just make sure you get all the little strands for best connection.


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicAMDGamer*
> 
> I used some small stranded stuff, probably about 24 or 26awg. Just make sure you get all the little strands for best connection.


Old IDE ribbon cable works great, I just strip individual strands off the ribbon for vmodding.


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> Old IDE ribbon cable works great, I just strip individual strands off the ribbon for vmodding.


Wow that's actually a great idea, I'll definitely do that next time.


----------



## sunset1

wow great ideas guys. I have tons of that stuff.. well a couple lbs anway.. :> OP you definitely deserve rep as welll as ftw 420 sharing that brilliant idea. im on my ipad and cant right now.. Thanks for all the help guys.


----------



## Rasparthe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Actually, based on the DS, pin 4 should be for the core. The core will always take more power than the mem, and a buck converter will supply more power than the linear regulator can. Pin 4 is part of the buck controller and therefore will control the core voltage.
> I assume there is only one inductor on the board? If so, there should be a ~0 ohm (or very low) connection from pin 13 to the inductor (doesn't matter which leg).
> Pin 6 will be the mem FB pin.


25K pots should be okay for this right? Thats all I have right now, so I hope so. The card has two inductors one at each end of the card and I rechecked the ICs and low and behold what did I find but a uP6101 near the front inductor. It is pretty hard to see the writing and I had to pull out a magnifying glass to make sure. I'm just trying to make this more of a challenge for you guys.

So I guess that leaves the question of which pin on the 6161 is the one I want? Still Pin 4? The 6101 is for the vCore maybe? Pin 13 on the 6161 does read 0hms to the inductor closest to it. Here is a picture of the back of the card. The red arrows are the inductor legs


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasparthe*
> 
> 25K pots should be okay for this right? Thats all I have right now, so I hope so. The card has two inductors one at each end of the card and I rechecked the ICs and low and behold what did I find but a uP6101 near the front inductor. It is pretty hard to see the writing and I had to pull out a magnifying glass to make sure. I'm just trying to make this more of a challenge for you guys.
> So I guess that leaves the question of which pin on the 6161 is the one I want? Still Pin 4? The 6101 is for the vCore maybe? Pin 13 on the 6161 does read 0hms to the inductor closest to it. Here is a picture of the back of the card. The red arrows are the inductor legs


And the plot thickens.

The inductor and uP6161 on the left is for mem, mod point is pin 4. As to what the linear regulator is for is any body's guess. Might provide some other function for the mem.

The uP6101 and inductor on the right is for the core, mod point is pin 6. This was the same controller on my 1gb card, 536 ohms, I used a 10k.

Vcore and vmem read points if you are curious:


----------



## Rasparthe

Will a 25K pot work or not enough range? Pin 6 on uP6101 reads 678 ohms to ground. My only 10K pot is on the Asus Silent card, hate to have to pop it off to try this out.

Oddly, the higher of the left side caps reads 1.05v and the bottom one reads 1.49v as I would have expected for the vMem read point.

10K on Pin 4 of uP6161 works just fine for the memory mod. Up to 1.65v right now, the mod doesn't change the voltage on uppermost cap though....


----------



## PizzaMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasparthe*
> 
> Will a 25K pot work or not enough range? Pin 6 on uP6101 reads 678 ohms to ground. My only 10K pot is on the Asus Silent card, hate to have to pop it off to try this out.
> Oddly, the higher of the left side caps reads 1.05v and the bottom one reads 1.49v as I would have expected for the vMem read point.


The 25K will work, just means a lot more turning and it will be less precise as the resistance gets lower. Meaning, you may see larger bumps in voltage with less turns as the VR gets closer to 0 resistance.

Nuke deserves a lot of reps, he's been working hard keep you guys modded up. Great work in this thread man


----------



## Rasparthe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PizzaMan*
> 
> Nuke deserves a lot of reps, he's been working hard keep you guys modded up. Great work in this thread man


No kidding and that doesn't even count when guys like me make it tough for him. Members like Nuke 'em are the reason this website is the best in the overclocking community. Thanks for your help Nuke 'em, appreciate all the time and comments.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasparthe*
> 
> Will a 25K pot work or not enough range? Pin 6 on uP6101 reads 678 ohms to ground. My only 10K pot is on the Asus Silent card, hate to have to pop it off to try this out.
> Oddly, the higher of the left side caps reads 1.05v and the bottom one reads 1.49v as I would have expected for the vMem read point.
> 10K on Pin 4 of uP6161 works just fine for the memory mod. Up to 1.65v right now, the mod doesn't change the voltage on uppermost cap though....


As long as it is a multiturn pot, it should be fine







. Nothing like using a single turn 20k pot, on a mod meant for 10k, and the resolution is so low that putting your screw driver in the adjustment slot moves it just enough that the voltage jumps .2v







(and at the same time, you only want a .05v adjustment, so you resort to hitting the vr with the screwdriver to get it just right)

That reading of 1.05v on that side of the card is a bit weird, but I only called out those read points as it looked like they shared the same plane on the pcb, but you should be defining your read points by what you find is connected to the inductor (as that is what supplies the main voltages anyway). Also weird that they would put a core capacitor that far out... but w/e.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PizzaMan*
> 
> Nuke deserves a lot of reps, he's been working hard keep you guys modded up. Great work in this thread man


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasparthe*
> 
> No kidding and that doesn't even count when guys like me make it tough for him. Members like Nuke 'em are the reason this website is the best in the overclocking community. Thanks for your help Nuke 'em, appreciate all the time and comments.


Thanks guys


----------



## HobieCat

What are your guys thoughts on the Zotac GT 210 512mb ddr3 card? http://www.zotacusa.com/geforce-210-zt-20309-10l.html


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HobieCat*
> 
> What are your guys thoughts on the Zotac GT 210 512mb ddr3 card? http://www.zotacusa.com/geforce-210-zt-20309-10l.html


There's better one's


----------



## HobieCat

How about the MSI ddr3 512mb? Or the Sparkle 512mb ddr3 card?

I've already got an asus silent 512mb version on the way, but I want to try other ones too.


----------



## EpicAMDGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HobieCat*
> 
> How about the MSI ddr3 512mb? Or the Sparkle 512mb ddr3 card?
> 
> I've already got an asus silent 512mb version on the way, but I want to try other ones too.


The ASUS is probably your best bet. If I were you and had to have another, I'd get another ASUS 512 lol.


----------



## Rasparthe

It really is all about what DDR3 chips are onboard. I'm tempted to start opening boxes at a computer store to check out a bunch of cards at the same time. The Micron D9s on the Asus Silent seem to be the best so far, unless someone can figure out how to unlock the advance timings on the BIOS.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> on this card if im looking at the correct components
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127676
> MSI N210-MD512D3H/TC
> up1503v
> up1503v Edit : i misread last time.
> and up0105p
> nanya 1118, nt5cb64m16dp-cf memory chips
> N210-MD512D3/LP
> Edit i decided just to keep the card im done shoppin.
> i just got the card from card central
> they claimed it was 1503 mem
> msi spec sheet shows 1334
> sunset1


Here is the mod for this card. Thanks to Badwrench for measuring the values.

Pin6 is the mod point on these uP1503 controllers. Mem measures 1.36k ohms, 20k pot should be fine. Core measures 890 ohms, 10k pot should be fine. Pin 3 is a good ground point on both chips.



Voltage read points:


----------



## sunset1

wow thank you so much for that info. can i use 2 25k 25 turn vrs on those? i have a bunch of 25 and 50's comming. If not i can order more but i have no idea how long it will take to get them. I might have to do some scorcing locally. You guys are so freggin cool. I would never get this type of help somewhere else.









There is just something really cool about the people on ocn. While modding video cards is not one of my strong area in computers, I never forget a favor. If i can ever be of service please dont hesitate to pm me.
Sunset1


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> wow thank you so much for that info. can i use 2 25k 25 turn vrs on those? i have a bunch of 25 and 50's comming. If not i can order more but i have no idea how long it will take to get them. I might have to do some scorcing locally. You guys are so freggin cool. I would never get this type of help somewhere else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is just something really cool about the people on ocn. While modding video cards is not one of my strong area in computers, I never forget a favor. If i can ever be of service please dont hesitate to pm me.
> Sunset1


If you have a radio shack nearby, they have 20k - 15 turn for around $4. I picked up some of these for mine, as well as a 10k.


----------



## sunset1

thanks again.. i need to just put this thanks again in my clipboard. :>
oh in case i didnt tell you guys check out the newegg deals. too many to mention this week some are gone but seasonic 750x gold 99.99 (example)
have a great weekend.


----------



## Rbby258

Anyone modded a N210-D512D2H msi card?


----------



## just_nuke_em

Don't think so yet. Post some pics. Might be similar to the other MSI I just did.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Don't think so yet. Post some pics. Might be similar to the other MSI I just did.


Will do once I received it, we should be able to figure it out with a multimeter if not


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Don't think so yet. Post some pics. Might be similar to the other MSI I just did.


I does look similar, but is running ddr2 and has a slightly different layout.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> I does look similar, but is running ddr2 and has a slightly different layout.


hope i didnt make a bad choice of card


----------



## Badwrench

I think you will be just fine. Less memory + more volts =


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badwrench*
> 
> I think you will be just fine. Less memory + more volts =










we will see tomorrow, it will be a lot better than my 1gb card though could only get 650mhz on the mem this come with 800mhz


----------



## RRainbo

Rbby258 I think N210-D512D2H is bad choice. You probably overlooked that it is ddr2 with starting frequency only 400MHz so your 1gb 650mhz card will be still better i think


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RRainbo*
> 
> Rbby258 I think N210-D512D2H is bad choice. You probably overlooked that it is ddr2 with starting frequency only 400MHz so your 1gb 650mhz card will be still better i think


its 800mhz


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> its 800mhz


Is that effective? or whatever the other term is. DDR mem transfers data on both the rising and falling edge of the clock signal, which makes the effective data transfer twice as fast as the base clock freq. I would guess that it is 400mhz.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Is that effective? or whatever the other term is. DDR mem transfers data on both the rising and falling edge of the clock signal, which makes the effective data transfer twice as fast as the base clock freq. I would guess that it is 400mhz.


yeah i think it is effective


----------



## RRainbo

Are we talking about this card? If yes it is only 800MHz efective. This is card with 800MHz.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Yeah, we are talking about the DDR2 card. Looks like MSI is listing the effective freq, bit of a marketing trick by not stating it is the effective freq







. That DDR3 card that comes with 790mhz real freq (as opposed to effective) is the one to look for. My Asus one is similar, and OCs like a champ.

But with that DDR2 card, you need to see how high you can get the shaders before you call it a dud. 2000mhz+ on the shaders can make up for less than ideal mem freq.


----------



## sunset1

If i read corectly when i went to hwbot and searched for available cards.. there was a link to the fastest recorded card and i believe it was a ddr2 card but not sure how old that data is.


----------



## Rasparthe

GV-N210D3-1G1 Revision 1.0 - Gigabyte Geforce 210 1GB DDR3 Version 1.0



Card uses Nanya 1109 memory chips, good for 820Mhz at 1.75v. Core did 940Mhz and Shaders up to 1900Mhz at 1.15v

Many thanks to Just Nuke'em!


----------



## Badwrench

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rasparthe*
> 
> GV-N210D3-1G1 Revision 1.0 - Gigabyte Geforce 210 1GB DDR3 Version 1.0
> 
> Card uses Nanya 1109 memory chips, good for 820Mhz at 1.75v. Core did 940Mhz and Shaders up to 1900Mhz at 1.15v
> Many thanks to Just Nuke'em!


Nice! What does gpuz show as the Bandwidth?


----------



## Rasparthe

Never really checked but the screen shot shows 13.1GB/S, but that is probably unloaded. If I had to guess the last number I remember seeing was 40.1 but I could be wrong about that.


----------



## Rbby258

Got that msi 512 card today, 3rd card I ordered and all 3 times they sent a 1gb card. uMad bro!


----------



## FtW 420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> Got that msi 512 card today, 3rd card I ordered and all 3 times they sent a 1gb card. uMad bro!


The one item you'd rather not have the free upgrade with, figures.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FtW 420*
> 
> The one item you'd rather not have the free upgrade with, figures.


yup, really annoying now. Ive got a few plans for tomorrow you should see some more score from me then


----------



## sunset1

dont feel bad the one i got from tiger is a 32bit. Not mentioned anyhere.. and very hard to find specs on found finally at newegg.. doh! It said 32 on the box. nice. return to sender.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> dont feel bad the one i got from tiger is a 32bit. Not mentioned anyhere.. and very hard to find specs on found finally at newegg.. doh! It said 32 on the box. nice. return to sender.


see how you feel when it happens 3 times that's about £100 now with postages


----------



## sunset1

yea i thought about it after i posted but it was already sent Doh! pretend i didnt send it ... :> thats got ot be aggrivating..


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> yea i thought about it after i posted but it was already sent Doh! pretend i didnt send it ... :> thats got ot be aggrivating..


Yup aswell recently got a brand new 7950 from eBay, received it and it was clearly used and had bad pixelation I have a pic on my phone but I'm on my iPad, returned that but was still £25 out of pocket for special delivery.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Next up is an Asus EN210 SILENT/DI/512MD3(LP).
> Stock votlages:
> core: .9-1v
> mem: 1.49v
> So this card is a bit tricky. There where a few chips on the top of the board that looked like contollers, but turned out to be linear regulators. The vrm controllers are on the bottom of the board, and are small little 16 pin square chips. There where just a few letters/numbers on the chips, but nothing that could tell me what they where. So a blind mod was attempted. The bottom inductor goes to the core, the top to the mem. The chips are located on the back near their respective inductors.
> I measured all 16 pins for resistence to ground, looking for something that would give me an indication of feedback resistance (mainly looking for something in the 2k or less value). On the bottom chip, I found a pin with 1.1k to ground. It also had 1.1k to the inductor, so this looked like appeared to be the FB pin (if there was not a similar resistance value from the pin to the inductor, it would not have been FB). Probed around the chip and found two suitable solder points. Using a 10k vr, I was able to change the voltage up! Success!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Core ran about 930mhz in Aquamark with 1.2v, staying below 50C.
> The mem chip appeared to be the exact same chip, so I measured the resistance in the same place. It read 4.8k to ground and 4.8k to it's inductor. A bit high, but the other controller worked, so this one should too. I will use a 50k vr on this one. Have not tried the mod yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details to follow.


nuke wheres the core and mem voltage readouts on this card, thanks


----------



## Rbby258

Asus EN210 SILENT/DI/512MD3(LP) voltage read points


----------



## Halfdead14

I have a GT 210, TEC, heatsinks, IDE ribbon cable, trimpots, and some free time.

Need a good soldering iron & new DMM...


----------



## Rasparthe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Halfdead14*
> 
> I have a GT 210, TEC, heatsinks, IDE ribbon cable, trimpots, and some free time.
> Need a good soldering iron & new DMM...


And then post it all up over here to show off your skills....


----------



## Fudge01010

Labels are smaller than I hoped, sorry.

I think that the bottom choke and cap are for vMem, and top are for vCore (due to thicker tracks up top).
Also pretty sure that the 1504T's are for vMem and vCore, and the 0104 is something else









Any confirmation/clarification would be awesome







Friend is bringing DSLR and macro lens around tonight if I need some better pics









As far as I can tell, my card is very similar to Rbby258's card, in power layout, memory config, etc.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fudge01010*
> 
> 
> Labels are smaller than I hoped, sorry.
> I think that the bottom choke and cap are for vMem, and top are for vCore (due to thicker tracks up top).
> Also pretty sure that the 1504T's are for vMem and vCore, and the 0104 is something else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any confirmation/clarification would be awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Friend is bringing DSLR and macro lens around tonight if I need some better pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as I can tell, my card is very similar to Rbby258's card, in power layout, memory config, etc.


grab some better pics of both sides and a model number helps


----------



## Fudge01010

Sorry, to clarify, there are absolutely no components on the back, it's all traces.

I'll get some macro pics tonight, cheers









Stickers on PCB read
GV-N210D3-1GI
REV:3.0

Power chips are
1 x uP0104
2 x uP1504T


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fudge01010*
> 
> Sorry, to clarify, there are absolutely no components on the back, it's all traces.
> I'll get some macro pics tonight, cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stickers on PCB read
> GV-N210D3-1GI
> REV:3.0
> Power chips are
> 1 x uP0104
> 2 x uP1504T


Looks like the 2 up1504t's are for the core and the mem. Pin 6 i think is the fb pin here's a pic of a different card that has the same chips


----------



## PizzaMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fudge01010*
> 
> Sorry, to clarify, there are absolutely no components on the back, it's all traces.
> I'll get some macro pics tonight, cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stickers on PCB read
> GV-N210D3-1GI
> REV:3.0
> Power chips are
> 1 x uP0104
> 2 x uP1504T


Pretty sure the two uP1504's are your ICs to mod, with the top one being mem and the bottom being core. Can you use your DMM and take resistance measurements between pin 6 and ground on both of them please? To find pin6 count down and then around from the dot in the corner. The pin by the dot is pin1, pin5 is directly across from pin4.

EDIT: I was ninja'd.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PizzaMan*
> 
> Pretty sure the two uP1504's are your ICs to mod, with the top one being mem and the bottom being core. Can you use your DMM and take resistance measurements between pin 6 and ground on both of them please? To find pin6 count down and then around from the dot in the corner. The pin by the dot is pin1, pin5 is directly across from pin4.
> EDIT: I was ninja'd.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Sorry, haven't responded to the thread for a while







. OP updated with documented mods and known controller mod points.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> Asus EN210 SILENT/DI/512MD3(LP) voltage read points.


Correct. There are some other points that are easier to solder to, which I will post later.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fudge01010*
> 
> Labels are smaller than I hoped, sorry.
> I think that the bottom choke and cap are for vMem, and top are for vCore (due to thicker tracks up top).
> Also pretty sure that the 1504T's are for vMem and vCore, and the 0104 is something else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any confirmation/clarification would be awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Friend is bringing DSLR and macro lens around tonight if I need some better pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As far as I can tell, my card is very similar to Rbby258's card, in power layout, memory config, etc.


Someone else had the same controllers, asked him for measurements, but never heard back. The 0104 is a linear regulator, and the 1504 is the buck controller. Follow the instructions of Pizza and Rbby please









On the other cards I have, and what I've seen, the top controller is for mem and the bottom is for the core. I think this is because if the mem was on the bottom, the mem power plane would need to cross under the core, or under the pcei data lines, which can create noise in the power plane. With the mem on the top, the planes just needs to go over the core, and not intersect other traces.


----------



## sunset1

Edit: solved issue.


----------



## Rayce185

From the competition thread:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Lol just for the hell of it I slapped the H70 onto the inno3d and got the core up to 1020/2150 at 1.68V and 33C. Couldn't vmod the memory though as I couldn't find the datasheet, so it was stuck at 750mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The benchmarks are kinda CPU relevant too, right?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> And you let that stop you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Post up some picks in the volt mod thread, and I'll get you going
Click to expand...

Here are the chips:


The up1504 is no problem, but I can't find anything on the upper one for the memory: 25Q512T.

I'll post the measurements when I'm back at home.


----------



## PizzaMan

The 25Q512T looks to out of place to be your memory controller.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Oh right, that was this card http://www.overclock.net/t/1317399/gpu-geforce-210-64-bit-competition/640#post_18724118

Seems to be missing a VRM. Has me stumped







. Can you get a better pic of the memory? If we can't see where the power is coming from, we can at least find what is connected to the memory power plane.


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

It's getting straight 12V


----------



## PizzaMan

Well, from the traces on the back of the board, it very well could be the controller. Never seen that one before.

Can you probe both the caps for us and verify that they have different voltage values?


----------



## Rbby258

I think I missed the original post so I can't look in to it


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Oh right, that was this card http://www.overclock.net/t/1317399/gpu-geforce-210-64-bit-competition/640#post_18724118
> Seems to be missing a VRM. Has me stumped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can you get a better pic of the memory? If we can't see where the power is coming from, we can at least find what is connected to the memory power plane.


Here's a quick look at the card and its current "modding":

Full frontal


"VRM" in detail


"VRM" region


Memory


Backside


Backside memory


Top view


Top view close to "VRM"


Backside "VRM"


Yeah I know that my one soldering point has fell off, I need to redo it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PizzaMan*
> 
> Well, from the traces on the back of the board, it very well could be the controller. Never seen that one before.
> Can you probe both the caps for us and verify that they have different voltage values?


Can you tell me from the images at what point you want me to measure please?


----------



## just_nuke_em

Measure voltage to ground at these points in yellow.



Also these (if you can't get to them without possibly shorting something, then don't risk it):


----------



## Rayce185

Will do. The middle mark is where I measure the Vcore, hence the cable.


----------



## just_nuke_em

And one more







, the ones in black to the right of the bottom mem chip. (these are the decoupling caps on the mem chips.) One side if gnd, one side should have voltage on it.


----------



## Rayce185

Okay here we go:


----------



## just_nuke_em

Wow, I'm still stumped. No inductor, nothing that looks like a controller (that 25Q512 is a BIOS memory chip or something I think). It might be just a simple mosfet amplifier







.

The mem is definitely getting the right voltage, but can't see the obvious place of where it gets the power.

I duno, maybe someone else has some ideas.


----------



## Rbby258

these are 2 resistors right, cant tell if there just solder pads or not. If these are then take a resistance reading from them should be able to do it with the card out / off


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> these are 2 resistors right, cant tell if there just solder pads or not. If these are then take a resistance reading from them should be able to do it with the card out / off


Nope, they're just two solder points reading ~380 Ohm on the left and ~1 Ohm on the right.


----------



## Rbby258

What about the 2 just to the right


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> What about the 2 just to the right




Do you mean the two things with the zero on them? Each of the four points measures around 955 Ohm.

Hahaha this card is a real nut buster


----------



## Rbby258

Yeah put a probe each side of them so you only have 2 readings


----------



## Rayce185

It drops to around 0.4 Ohm on both...


----------



## Rbby258

To change the mem voltage you need to adjust that voltage regulator, would involve removing and replacing some resistors if and when we find them, probably be way more work than its worth as there very small.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Are you even sure what kind of regulator it is?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Are you even sure what kind of regulator it is?


Nope, it may not even be adjustable but you can normally still adjust them, there's nothing else that it can be and the memory is 1.58v and so is the regulator output.
Just a cheap way for them to get voltage to the memory, anyway voltage didn't make a difference to my memory I just used stock so I don't even think it will help.


----------



## Rayce185

And now in English, please...?


----------



## CL3P20

*some old mobo's I modded had single resistors tied to mosfets that set voltage output..[for the NBv circuits] like the mosfet was being driven by another source.. like voltage divider.. with a single resistor to lower input to the correct level for appropriate output. To mod these.. it was just VR to the resistor .. or pencil.

I cant help but think thats whats going on with this card.. as there is only 1x inductor and IC for voltage control. If so.. there should be some continuity between the 'RAM' fet and the GPUv inductor I think.

{Dan may be able to shed soem more light on this idea though..}


----------



## Rayce185

So you're saying the voltage may be controlled with the same IC and increases proportionally with the Vcore?


----------



## just_nuke_em

Rayce, specifically what DMM are you using? make and model.


----------



## Rayce185

Just some cheapo 10€ DMM called "Dünni 07974", why?


----------



## just_nuke_em

Some of the good Fluke meters have frequency detection settings. If you had one like that, we could see if that mosfet is being switched at all.


----------



## Rbby258

Nuke is it even worth vmodding the mem most of them had little to no gain.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Lots of factors determine that. More volts helped my hynix chips, though only like 30mhz.

At this point I'm just interested in how this card is designed







. It's a challenge.

I'll take a closer look at the card later. I really think it is something along the lines of a simple mosfet amplifier, like a common source amp. Just needs resistors, a mosfet, and different voltages.


----------



## CL3P20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> So you're saying the voltage may be controlled with the same IC and increases proportionally with the Vcore?


in essence.. yes. Though its likely being 'knocked down' with a simple resistor to control output.

ie- direct fed mosfet from 3.3v PCI-E input.. with single resistor to choke input enough to make output voltage correct.


----------



## Rbby258

Can't you desolder the input leg and fed 5v into it instead of 4.18v should output 1.65-1.75v


----------



## CL3P20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> Can't you desolder the input leg and fed 5v into it instead of 4.18v should output 1.65-1.75v


 I dont see why not.. assuming your 5v supply is clean enough. Good idea


----------



## just_nuke_em

That would be a nice experiment







. Would recommend putting a decoupling capacitor on that input leg to clean the incoming 5V.


----------



## Rayce185

Alrighty... can someone compile a pictured manual for me please?

I'm down for any experiment... as long as I'm told what to do


----------



## Rbby258

desolder and bend this leg up so its no longer connected to the board
solder a wire to the leg and run it to a 5v line of a molex plug, make sure its the 5v, not 12v
fire it up and see what your mem voltage is


----------



## sunset1

this is the ultimate learning thread thanks guys!


----------



## Rbby258

any progress?


----------



## Rayce185

On Friday. I'm away for the holidays.

Merry Christmas


----------



## Rayce185

Okay, so I was quite brutal and tore off the entire thing











...but now the memory voltage is 2.45V








It POSTs, but I turn off the system before the (uncooled) memory even thinks about frying itself.

What are the options? An entirely new VRM?

Here the entire setup as it sits:


----------



## Rbby258

100% sure its 5v not 12v your feeding it


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> 100% sure its 5v not 12v your feeding it


Yup. Measured and marked (see 2nd pic)


----------



## Rbby258

2 options
put a big blob of solder to repair it or
make a separate voltage regulator circuit that's adjustable and run the output to where the remaining leg is after removing it


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> 2 options
> put a big blob of solder to repair it or
> make a separate voltage regulator circuit that's adjustable and run the output to where the remaining leg is after removing it


So Option 2 would be to resolder the original "entry voltage" and run a potentiometer through the "exit voltage"?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> So Option 2 would be to resolder the original "entry voltage" and run a potentiometer through the "exit voltage"?


nope remove the last leg that's left and make one of these but have a variable resistor as R1 so you can tweak the voltage

http://www.reuk.co.uk/LM317-Voltage-Calculator.htm

5v in from molex to that and the output to where the last original leg is now

R2 or the second resistor get a 100 ohm
R1 a variable resistor set to 300 ohm will give you 1.67v from a 5v input


----------



## just_nuke_em

Interesting results to be sure...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> put a big blob of solder to repair it


If you chose to go this route, a small piece of solid wire to bridge the connections would work better than trying to make a solder blob.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> nope remove the last leg that's left and make one of these but have a variable resistor as R1 so you can tweak the voltage
> http://www.reuk.co.uk/LM317-Voltage-Calculator.htm
> 5v in from molex to that and the output to where the last original leg is now
> R2 or the second resistor get a 100 ohm
> R1 a variable resistor set to 300 ohm will give you 1.67v from a 5v input


That may or may not work, depending on how much current the mem ICs take. Worth a try though.

Alternatively, you could take a potentiometer and put it in the 5v line and slowly increase the resistance till the mem voltage drops. Can't use the little trimmer pots though, would need to be one of the larger wattage ones. Like this http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/026T419S101A1A1/026T419S101A1A1-ND/468347


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> That may or may not work, depending on how much current the mem ICs take. Worth a try though.


only option there is other than sticking with stock


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> only option there is other than sticking with stock


Sure there is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Alternatively, you could take a potentiometer and put it in the 5v line and slowly increase the resistance till the mem voltage drops. Can't use the little trimmer pots though, would need to be one of the larger wattage ones. Like this http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/026T419S101A1A1/026T419S101A1A1-ND/468347


I have a strong feeling that the 4.16v pin is not the input voltage to that regulator.


----------



## Rayce185

I'm totally confused now...









I'm currently back to stock:



Building my own little circuit board is out of question...
Wouldn't a pot(entiometer) increase voltage instead of decreasing?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> I have a strong feeling that the 4.16v pin is not the input voltage to that regulator.


could make sense as there would need to be circuitry to get 4.16v, what about the 3.3v on the back of it


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> could make sense as there would need to be circuitry to get 4.16v, what about the 3.3v on the back of it


We know the 1.58v is the output, so we are left with two options for the input: the other small leg, or the big tab. Assuming this is a transistor, the big tab is either the input or the output (drain or source on a mosfet). This is how the design them. It does not make sense to have both the input and output on the small legs. They don't design chips that are meant to handle power like that, even on linear regulators.

The 4.16v is configured from the 12v line, but I don't think it is meant to deliver power, as there would be something dissipating all that power loss due to the voltage drop from 12v to 4v. The 4.16v is probably just set like that to configure the transistor (the gate pin).

In an efficiency standpoint, it is more efficient to use a lower input voltage when not using switching power supplies, thus I believe the 3.3v rail is the input for this circuit.


----------



## Rayce185

Soooo... cutting the lower leg and throwing in a pot won't do the trick, I guess?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> We know the 1.58v is the output, so we are left with two options for the input: the other small leg, or the big tab. Assuming this is a transistor, the big tab is either the input or the output (drain or source on a mosfet). This is how the design them. It does not make sense to have both the input and output on the small legs. They don't design chips that are meant to handle power like that, even on linear regulators.
> The 4.16v is configured from the 12v line, but I don't think it is meant to deliver power, as there would be something dissipating all that power loss due to the voltage drop from 12v to 4v. The 4.16v is probably just set like that to configure the transistor (the gate pin).
> In an efficiency standpoint, it is more efficient to use a lower input voltage when not using switching power supplies, thus I believe the 3.3v rail is the input for this circuit.


the other small leg isn't joined, cant be that


----------



## just_nuke_em

The tab refers to the large piece of metal on the other end of the component, and it actually runs under the body of the component. That and the little stub leg are actually attached internally. That is the one that reads 3.25v

Rayce, can you measure resistance between these two point? the PCIe pin marked and the tab on the component up top.


----------



## Rayce185

Is that the 6th pcie pin from the left?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Is that the 6th pcie pin from the left?


looks it


----------



## just_nuke_em

Yes it is.


----------



## Rayce185

No resistance (<0.4 Ohm).


----------



## Rbby258

That is where the card gets 3.3v from the mobo looks like it goes directly to that and 3.3v is the input voltage not 4.16v


----------



## Rayce185

Sooo... I should just shove a pot to the 1.58V leg?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Sooo... I should just shove a pot to the 1.58V leg?


If you wanna decrease voltage.

The only way I would be able to do this is get a second gpu that you can voltmod and join a thick gauge wire from that to the 1.58v point and adjust the voltage on the second card, have to wait for nuke to come online and see what his idea is.


----------



## Rayce185

And if it were SOMEHOW possible to disconnect the wide 3.3V point from the card and run a pot between there?


----------



## sunset1

Sorry to jump in the middle if this cool discussion... but can you guys tell me where to get parts to build those ribbon cable pcie adapters? or do they sell them?
@race185 you are a dedicated man.. kudos to those helping him. I actually understood the last part where it would decrease the voltage..









on a side note they had a zalman clc cooler (310) on sale last night for 29.99 after 35.00 rebate on newegg usa. latest email sale.


----------



## PizzaMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> Sorry to jump in the middle if this cool discussion... but can you guys tell me where to get parts to build those ribbon cable pcie adapters? or do they sell them?
> @race185 you are a dedicated man.. kudos to those helping him. I actually understood the last part where it would decrease the voltage..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on a side note they had a zalman clc cooler (310) on sale last night for 29.99 after 35.00 rebate on newegg usa. latest email sale.


Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-Express-PCI-E-16X-Riser-Card-Flex-Flexible-Ribbon-Extender-Extension-Cable-/280933089391?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4168eac06f


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> And if it were SOMEHOW possible to disconnect the wide 3.3V point from the card and run a pot between there?


Um a pot will never help with this they offer resistance which will lower the voltage, pots are used on the chips to alter there original resistance and to make them adjustable. Your memory on this card does not have a controller it's more of a direct feed of voltage, the only you can change this is to input a higher voltage by either the way a mentioned a few posts back or find how that voltage regulator works.


----------



## Rayce185

I wonder if I could just buy a few more of those extenders and have the card on the desk. Would be easier for measuring etc








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> Um a pot will never help with this they offer resistance which will lower the voltage, pots are used on the chips to alter there original resistance and to make them adjustable. Your memory on this card does not have a controller it's more of a direct feed of voltage, the only you can change this is to input a higher voltage by either the way a mentioned a few posts back or find how that voltage regulator works.


Resistance lowering voltage? I thought when applying _*U=R*I*_ it would increase the voltage?


----------



## sunset1

@pizzaman thanks i didnt know what to call it .. Ordered.. rep+ as soon as i get on my computer.

@ rayce185 if i understood the circuit correctly it was being used like a dimmer switch in a simple circuit. E= I x R ( please correct me if i am wrong)


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> I wonder if I could just buy a few more of those extenders and have the card on the desk. Would be easier for measuring etc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Resistance lowering voltage? I thought when applying _*U=R*I*_ it would increase the voltage?


3.3v x 1-999 ohm would lower the Voltage

And if you have 3.3v going to the pot and ground, the wiper can only give out 0-3.3v

Thinking about it you could have 5v and ground and use the wiper to set between 0 and 5v but you would fry it fast as there probably not good under any amperage


----------



## just_nuke_em

I have another idea now that I know the input power is from the 3.3v line.

Take a pot (10k or so) and put it at 500 ohms. Put it inline with the 5v line you had before and solder back to that leg you removed.

Turn on the card real quick and check the mem volts. See if they lower. Report back.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Resistance lowering voltage? I thought when applying _*U=R*I*_ it would increase the voltage?


That is the general Ohms law equation, and does not describe the circuit in full detail. You need to understand the application of it to use it properly. In your power circuit, current is produced from a fixed voltage source. This current is inversely proportional to the load (resistance) of the memory chips, such that less resistance means more current. By adding the pot in series with the mem chips, you decrease the current in circuit such that the voltage source stays the same. This produces a voltage drop on the resistance you added, which means there is less voltage at the mem ICs.

That was a bit convoluted, but I hope it makes sense







. Here's a little diagram that shows what happens if you put 100 ohm vr in the circuit:


----------



## Rayce185

Thanks for the information nuke, that cleared things up a bit









I'll try that out


----------



## Rayce185

498 Ohms didn't make a difference... 2.45V still.

Raising the resistance to 1k or 2k didn't make a difference either.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> 498 Ohms didn't make a difference... 2.45V still.
> Raising the resistance to 1k or 2k didn't make a difference either.


Hmm, well I'm out of ideas then







. Strange little card you got there...


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Hmm, well I'm out of ideas then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Strange little card you got there...


use a second card like a zombie and run it to where 1.58v was outputting


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Hmm, well I'm out of ideas then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Strange little card you got there...


Scratch that, got another idea.

Take two VRs and arrange them like this:



Set VR 2 to 500 ohms. Set VR 1 to 100 ohms. This sound produce 4.16v at that leg. If that circuit is designed the way I think it is, the mem volts should be 1.58v when you turn it on.

If so, then slowly reduce the resistance of VR1 and see if the mem volts change.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> Scratch that, got another idea.
> Take two VRs and arrange them like this:
> 
> Set VR 2 to 500 ohms. Set VR 1 to 100 ohms. This sound produce 4.16v at that leg. If that circuit is designed the way I think it is, the mem volts should be 1.58v when you turn it on.
> If so, then slowly reduce the resistance of VR1 and see if the mem volts change.


nice idea


----------



## Rayce185

Whoa I'll try that when I'm back home. Until then...

Happy new year and have a great first guys!


----------



## Rbby258

Any progress?
This might work
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20W-DC-DC-Step-down-Converter-Regulator-combine-the-Blue-LED-volt-meter-/160774133519?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item256ee2970f

5v in and turn the pot to get what you want out, desolder the 1.58v leg on that regulator and wire it to the positive output leg and ground to ground


----------



## Rayce185

Okay, so here's my current setup:



Just making sure: Is that the proper setup to fire up?


----------



## Rbby258

Is that leg unsolder from the pcb if so then it looks good.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> Is that leg unsolder from the pcb if so then it looks good.












So assuming you do get 1.58v on the mem with that setup, then slowly decrease the 100 ohm VR and see how the volts change.


----------



## Rayce185

It's POSTing with 1.75V, so I regulated it down (increasing resistance on VR1) to 1.58V before booting into windows. Close enough


----------



## Rayce185

Hmmm no chance. During the welcome screen the voltage jumps around between 0.94V and 1.36V, then a black screen and reboot...

I'm guessing the 5V line is too unstable? I'm using the one where the HDDs are hooked onto.


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> It's POSTing with 1.75V












To stabilize the 5v line, put a large value capacitor in parallel with the 500 ohm VR. Ideally 1000uF or more.


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Hmmm no chance. During the welcome screen the voltage jumps around between 0.94V and 1.36V, then a black screen and reboot...
> I'm guessing the 5V line is too unstable? I'm using the one where the HDDs are hooked onto.


The pots don't give out clean power, had a look at that adjustable voltage regulator I linked?


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_nuke_em*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To stabilize the 5v line, put a large value capacitor in parallel with the 500 ohm VR. Ideally 1000uF or more.


Ohh boy... What a project
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> The pots don't give out clean power, had a look at that adjustable voltage regulator I linked?


Yeah I just bought one... lets see how long that'll take to ship from China


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Ohh boy... What a project


It is intriguing to say the least


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> Ohh boy... What a project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I just bought one... lets see how long that'll take to ship from China


Yeah they looked good for any future project I'm gunna order a few also


----------



## just_nuke_em

Those are good little devices. Much better than linear regulators as they are much more efficient at high loads.


----------



## sunset1

I keep getting inspired to vmod my card. the info is already in the posts and i finally have most of my other stuff done except for the cpu contest. Creating backups now for when i crash the os.
There is a lot if info in these posts so when i get time i plan on trying to get up to speed.
You guys deserve a medal for all the work you have put into this as well as rayce185 for not giving up.
Thats a lot of patience my friend. See you guys on the other pages.
Sunset1


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> Yeah they looked good for any future project I'm gunna order a few also


yeah i might get some more since they don't cost much and the shipping is free









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunset1*
> 
> I keep getting inspired to vmod my card. the info is already in the posts and i finally have most of my other stuff done except for the cpu contest. Creating backups now for when i crash the os.
> There is a lot if info in these posts so when i get time i plan on trying to get up to speed.
> You guys deserve a medal for all the work you have put into this as well as rayce185 for not giving up.
> Thats a lot of patience my friend. See you guys on the other pages.
> Sunset1


heh, I was close to giving up and simply sending the card to nuke or rbby... But I'll see what that linear regulator has to say









Instead of making backups, make a new partition with a stripped OS using RT7Lite, the guide is somewhere on here


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> yeah i might get some more since they don't cost much and the shipping is free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> heh, I was close to giving up and simply sending the card to nuke or rbby... But I'll see what that linear regulator has to say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Instead of making backups, make a new partition with a stripped OS using RT7Lite, the guide is somewhere on here


I've said to do somthing likes that for a while


----------



## sunset1

thats a great idea, im using acrinis sp? so it only takes about 2 min. or 6 for full partition.
whats a good utility for changing ram settings in win 7?


----------



## Rayce185

No offense, but how about you make a new thread about that or ask in one that covers that topic?










Anyway: Today I got the 20W DC/DC Step down Converter Regulator.

Also, I found my Meanwell S-350-12 PSU . I was wondering if I could run the regulator from there and measure the output instead of having to install the card into the system all the time?

EDIT:

Okay..... game over!


----------



## Rbby258

What happens when you power the card up? Or haven't you


----------



## reggiesanchez

20W DC/DC Step down Converter Regulator

im I missing something what are you gunna do with something that only outputs 2A


----------



## just_nuke_em

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reggiesanchez*
> 
> 20W DC/DC Step down Converter Regulator
> 
> im I missing something what are you gunna do with something that only outputs 2A


20W total input power, assume 93% efficiency (in the spec) during the step down to mem voltage (1.58v), then the output might be ~18.6W which would give you 11+amps at the lower voltage


----------



## Rayce185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rbby258*
> 
> What happens when you power the card up? Or haven't you


its in the bin, but I can fish it out


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> its in the bin, but I can fish it out


Well if it works enough to turn on you can go through with the mod and see if we can finally get the vmem up after all this


----------



## Rayce185

No POST, no chance.

Oh well. I twas fun as long as it lasted. Thanks anyway for your help guys









I may try another project then... maybe a GTX 650?


----------



## Rbby258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayce185*
> 
> No POST, no chance.
> 
> Oh well. I twas fun as long as it lasted. Thanks anyway for your help guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may try another project then... maybe a GTX 650?


it dont need to post if it powers up and the vmem reads 1.58v still we can work it it


----------



## Rayce185

Okay.... so I modified the idea a bit:
I went and skipped the whole installation process by soldering the ground and 3.3V lines from the PCIe connector directly to a PSU I had lying around. The GPU is irreparably damaged anyway, so why not


























One of the PSU's 5V lines goes to the new voltage regulator that I got off ebay, the output then goes to the mosfet on the card:









(Ignore the Meanwell PSU under the regulator, it isn't connected.)

The 3.3V line drops from 3.35V (nothing attached) to 2.7V.
The 5V line stays at a steady 4.85V into the regulator, which has trouble reaching above 4.0V output though. I can turn the screw all I want, it still doesn't give me any more.

Nevertheless, I can get the cards voltage to read 1.41V from the original 1.58V line, so at least we're getting somewhere









I'll try and connect the voltage regulator to a 12V line and drop the output voltage to the original 4.16V to see what happens









EDIT:
The 12V line works much better, I got the output to exactly 4.16V. The memory's voltage is 1.48V. I need to get the 3.3V line more stable.
Weird. The 3.3V line measures around 9A, the PSU is supposed to manage 30A...


----------



## Rbby258

I didn't want you to solder to that point, reconnect it and remove the leg underneath it and only solder the wire to the pcb so the bottom leg isnt connected to nothing.


----------



## ailtonek

Can someone help me ? My GPU is Nvidia GT 210 , Chip 218... And I want and need a vmod , she walks very slowly and my processor uses only 50 % of which he is not good , I believe overclock solve the bottleneck. If anyone is still there and answer I will post the pictures of her , please help me :/ .


----------

