# Bong! Bong! Bong!--56K Warning!



## Naja002

I don't have any 12v psu in my out building and have never wanted to set one up out there when 120v is just so much easier to work with....So, after looking around, I decided to give these Walmart clip-on fans a try. They work very well.







High is 13w each and low is only 8w. They work so well that I had a misting issue that I fixed with the goofy elbows at the top of the bongs.

Now it's easy to see that the fans do not fit nice and neatly into the PVC fitting. I pondered for several days on how to make a fan "shroud" that would funnel all of the air into the PVC intake. Tossed around many ideas. In the end I found these cheap plastic bowls at Walmart:









I grabbed a fan off the shelf and took it out of the box to check the fit and....viola! Perfect!









I drilled the large hole through the bottom of the bowl and it fit perfectly with the opening of the PVC intake. Problem is: It didn't work worth a flip. :down: The only thing that I can gather is that instead on funneling the air--it just creates a lot of turbulence inside the bowl. Performance was greatly decreased with the bowls v. without. So, I decided to leave well enough alone and rock-n-roll with it shroud free. But I did need a way to secure the fans:









So I drilled a triad of holes and secured the fans with zip ties.


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## Naja002

So, now that that's out of the way, let's take a gander inside the res:


















Mega Prefilter for the pump. It has the course filter with the finer blue filter wrapped around that:









Next--cuz I'm lazy--is the float valve for auto refill. There's simply zero possibily that I will keep up with evaporation, so, uh, yeah:








The water supply line can be seen in the pix above also. Yeah, finally got around to running a 1/2" pvc water line into my out-building. :up:










Finally, just a general view into the res:








The pump is connected to a bulk head fitting--which luckily was long enough to reach all the way through the cooler. Water pumps through the bulkhead and heads to the PCs:


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## Naja002

What a mess, huh? After going through the PCs the water returns and comes back up through the floor. It's then sent into the dual car rads and comes out to the bong coolers.

As stated earlier, I had a misting issue where the airflow was carrying small droplets of water out the top. Over time this was getting everything below wet--including the 120v fans. My fix was simply these goofy elbows--Hey, it works!







:










The 4" to 2" fittings on the tops are really not necessary. I picked those up "just in case", but they do increase the air velocity and help push that cooler air up toward the top of the out-building--hopefully helping to keep things a wee bit cooler out there. It's been rainy, cloudy, etc, so it will be a while before I can tell much. Anyway, the double elbows definitely fixed the misting issue.









In order to get the elbows over the cooling system supply line....I had to whip out the jig saw:


















The blue filter padding helps keep condensation from dripping out and down the side.

Finally, the water enters the Bongs via 2 shower heads that I found at walmart for $2.88 each...plus tax, of course.







:


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## Naja002

Here's an idea of the effect:

Building temps--high up and lower toward the floor:










Res Temps:









As I said earlier, I've been running this for a couple of weeks...the cooler is what's new today. The temps get much better, but it's been cloudy and rainy with high humidity. Not sure why the 1 thermometer reads 62%--maybe that's accurate...maybe not--I don't know. What I do know is that everything has been very wet around here for a while now. I figure that when it dries up and the sun comes out--things will improve. :up: I've seen 12F below ambient a number of times before this constant raininess. 12F would mean low 80's F (High 20's C) during the heat of the summer. We'll see what happens!









Cost:

Cooler $26
4" PVC and fittings ~$83
Misc PVC $20 or less
Shower heads $6
Clip-on fans $20


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## Naja002

Just wanted to add a pic that I forgot to take yesterday:









Both of the bongs have these cutouts to help the cool water get into the res...:up:

Temps from today--ambient outside is ~23C/73F

Temps in the out-building:









Temps in the res:









I may need to do a better job of venting the heat out of the out-building. Right now it just has a passive vent on each end. I think a small fan may help. Implementing it is the question though....


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## JerseyDubbin

Nice work man!! Looks real clean


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## meticadpa

Good job!

Fill in your system specs, i wanna know your overclock and your temps!


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## Drivr3g

Wow that is completely nuts, and awesome.


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## videoman5

I have that same food cooler. Hmmm.....


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## huntman21014

Wow!


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## mike-z

Hookah!


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## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *poroboszcz* 
Looks interesting, but where do you put the weed?









You put it in the water i guess and....i dunno







.

This is awesome Naja002. I wish I had the space available to make something so extensive and effective.


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## Livinstrong

Very nice Bong! You should post some picture of your actual rig too!


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## Munchkinpuncher

Thats awesome very clever.
Toke it up!


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## DIRTYDUCK

Hey that's a pretty good looking bong man!
I would think that by putting rads after the bong and before the CPU would cause the water to heat up again...you see normal WC can't get below ambient temps. Your bong goes well below ambient and if you put a air cooled rad after your sub ambient bong you will rewarm the water to ambient temps.
If anything you could put the rad in your res and run it on a 2nd closed loop, this will make it so your blocks don't corrode. Really all you need to add is another pump. With all the work you put into it you should think this over a bit. I have been using a bong for a good while now and have been pondering the 2nd loop idea from the beginning, it still seems like the best idea. because then you could use additives as well.

One other thing I noticed is that your shower heads are made out of really funky metal and you need to get all plastic ones. They are almost as cheap I think I got mine for about 6 bucks. I had one made out of that stuff and it got covered in some white corrosion in about 4 months. This also effected my water block a bit with a tiny bit of rust color on the tip of my pins. (that's an easy fix though)
Hopefully you can get some of that dehumidifier biocide to keep the slime out and it helps with how often you need to clean your res.

Other then that (lol sorry) I think it looks GREAT! That's a lot of PVC going on there.


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## MasterShake

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DIRTYDUCK* 
Hey that's a pretty good looking bong man!
I would think that by putting rads after the bong and before the CPU would cause the water to heat up again...you see normal WC can't get below ambient temps. Your bong goes well below ambient and if you put a air cooled rad after your sub ambient bong you will rewarm the water to ambient temps.
If anything you could put the rad in your res and run it on a 2nd closed loop, this will make it so your blocks don't corrode. Really all you need to add is another pump. With all the work you put into it you should think this over a bit. I have been using a bong for a good while now and have been pondering the 2nd loop idea from the beginning, it still seems like the best idea. because then you could use additives as well.

One other thing I noticed is that your shower heads are made out of really funky metal and you need to get all plastic ones. They are almost as cheap I think I got mine for about 6 bucks. I had one made out of that stuff and it got covered in some white corrosion in about 4 months. This also effected my water block a bit with a tiny bit of rust color on the tip of my pins. (that's an easy fix though)
Hopefully you can get some of that dehumidifier biocide to keep the slime out and it helps with how often you need to clean your res.

Other then that (lol sorry) I think it looks GREAT! That's a lot of PVC going on there.

I thought his rads were before the bong and after the pc's.


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## Naja002

Thanx for the comments, rep and all, Everybody! Much Appreciated!









Quote:


Originally Posted by *DIRTYDUCK* 
Hey that's a pretty good looking bong man!
I would think that by putting rads after the bong and before the CPU would cause the water to heat up again...you see normal WC can't get below ambient temps. Your bong goes well below ambient and if you put a air cooled rad after your sub ambient bong you will rewarm the water to ambient temps.
If anything you could put the rad in your res and run it on a 2nd closed loop, this will make it so your blocks don't corrode. Really all you need to add is another pump. With all the work you put into it you should think this over a bit. I have been using a bong for a good while now and have been pondering the 2nd loop idea from the beginning, it still seems like the best idea. because then you could use additives as well.

Right. I understand what you are saying and I agree. However, this is the loop:
Res> Pump> Manifold> 3 PCs> Manifold> Stacked Dual Car Rads> Bong Coolers> Res

The rads are after the cpus/gpus and before the bongs. The rads remove most of the energy (heat) and allow the bongs to go subambient. The first post has a link to my cooling setup. That thread here at OCN is a copy over from one that started at XS ~1yr ago.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *DIRTYDUCK* 
One other thing I noticed is that your shower heads are made out of really funky metal and you need to get all plastic ones. They are almost as cheap I think I got mine for about 6 bucks. I had one made out of that stuff and it got covered in some white corrosion in about 4 months. This also effected my water block a bit with a tiny bit of rust color on the tip of my pins. (that's an easy fix though)
Hopefully you can get some of that dehumidifier biocide to keep the slime out and it helps with how often you need to clean your res.

Other then that (lol sorry) I think it looks GREAT! That's a lot of PVC going on there.

I will have to check, but I think that funky metal is just "chromed" plastic. But the corrosion had not crossed my mind. I'll take a look at them.

Yeah, I've been working on and changing thing for almost a yr now. After I get it all settled I'll scrap it and go to a chiller.....









Quote:


Originally Posted by *meticadpa* 
Good job!

Fill in your system specs, i wanna know your overclock and your temps!










Thanx! It cools a 3 PC crunching farm. I do WCG and GpuGrid.

9450 @ 3.85 load ~47C 1x 800GS
Q6600 @ 3.85 load ~45C 2x 8800GS
i7 920 @ 3.4 load ~61C (for the summer probably) 2x 8800GS
All with Apogee GT blocks.

I have a 4th quad going, but it's on a different WCing setup.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *MasterShake* 
I thought his rads were before the bong and after the pc's.









They are....


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## Livinstrong

You could probably improve the temps for the Core i7 if you get a better CPU block. A Apogee GT is perfect for a dual core, but the temperatures really jump when you use it with a quad core. Especially a Core i7, they put out much more heat than their Core 2 Quad predecessor.


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## nub

Have you tested temperatures without the radiator in the system?


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## Naja002

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Livinstrong* 
You could probably improve the temps for the Core i7 if you get a better CPU block. A Apogee GT is perfect for a dual core, but the temperatures really jump when you use it with a quad core. Especially a Core i7, they put out much more heat than their Core 2 Quad predecessor.

Agreed, but if I'm going to upgrade the block then I would go with a Heatkiller Cu--that's about $100 with back plate and all. More importantly my setup-via the manifold--is actually parallel to 3 rigs, so I have to pay attention to block restrictions---not so much in and of themselves, but in reference to the other blocks on the overall system. If you are not sure what I mean then check out my other car rad thread linked in the first post and my last post above....The way things are now: all cpus have ApogeeGT, NB=MCW30, 3x Gpus have Obsidians 2x Gpu have MCW60. So, flow restriction to each rig is about the same.....If I start mixing and matching--It's going to-potentially-cause all kinds of issues....

I've had this overall system setup for almost 1 yr now....only the bongs are new. I've learned a lot about it. There's a number of things that I could change for the better and somethings that if I had to do over--I would do a bit differently.

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nub* 
Have you tested temperatures without the radiator in the system?

Not yet. I don't have to remove the rads though--just turn off the fans and close the window. The weather hasn't really been good here lately for bongs--high humidity. But I plan on giving it at least a short term spin. It shouldn't make much of a positive difference though--I could be wrong. It's an open loop now, so the closed-loop "equilibrium" really doesn't apply.

But, Yes, I do plan to at least check it out when the weather is better....


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## gablain

where's the motherboard ?


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## Naja002

In my sig and profile...


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## DIRTYDUCK

AWWW I understand now...yeah it would help if you put it after the BLOCKS and before the BONG. I am just thinking that maybe your pump is dumping heat into your loop or something. for some reason your Temps are not as good as I woudl expect with all that Bong lol


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## Naja002

My initial disinfectant plan:

I have one of these that I'm not using:

Turbo Twist 18w UV










Conveniently, it's already setup in "over-hang" format:

Old Pic:









The UV was initially purchased for the aquatic snakes that I keep and setup to kill pathogens, so the pump is small for a low flow:










This can run 24/7 and pose no risk to myself or others. :up:

Step 2 is a periodic dose of either bleach, vinegar or both. Apparently mixing bleach and white vinegar increases the disinfectant qualities many fold.









Here's a quick read:

Vinegar Increases Killing Power of Bleach--very bottom:

Quote:

American Society for Microbiology
February 19, 2006

Adding white vinegar to diluted household bleach greatly increases the disinfecting power of the solution, making it strong enough to kill even bacterial spores. Researchers from MicroChem Lab, Inc. in Euless, Texas, report their findings today at the 2006 ASM Biodefense Research Meeting.
Sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl) in the form of laundry bleach is available in most households. The concentrate is about 5.25 to 6 percent NaOCl, and the pH value is about 12. Sodium hypochlorite is stable for many months at this high alkaline pH value.
"Laundry bleach is commonly diluted about 10 to 25-fold with tap water to about 2000 to 5000 parts per million of free available chlorine for use as an environmental surface disinfectant, without regard to the pH value of the diluted bleach. However, the pH value is very important for the antimicrobial effectiveness of bleach," says Norman Miner, a researcher on the study.
At alkaline pH values of about 8.5 or higher, more than 90 percent of the bleach is in the form of the chlorite ion (OCl-), which is relatively ineffective antimicrobially. At acidic pH values of about 6.8 or lower, more than 80 percent of the bleach is in the form of hypochlorite (HOCl). HOCl is about 80 to 200 times more antimicrobial than OCl-

"Bleach is a much more effective antimicrobial chemical at an acidic pH value than at the alkaline Ph value at which bleach is manufactured and stored. A small amount of household vinegar is sufficient to lower the pH of bleach to an acidic range," says Miner.

Miner and his colleagues compared the ability of alkaline (pH 11) and acidified (pH 6) bleach dilutions to disinfect surfaces contaminated with dried bacterial spores, considered the most resistant to disinfectants of all microbes. The alkaline dilution was practically ineffective, killing all of the spores on only 2.5 percent of the surfaces after 20 minutes. During the same time period the acidified solution killed all of the spores on all of the surfaces.
"Diluted bleach at an alkaline pH is a relatively poor disinfectant, but acidified diluted bleach will virtually kill anything in 10 to 20 minutes," says Miner. "In the event of an emergency involving Bacillus anthracis spores contaminating such environmental surfaces as counter tops, desk and table tops, and floors, for example, virtually every household has a sporicidal sterilant available in the form of diluted, acidified bleach."

Miner recommends first diluting one cup of household bleach in one gallon of water and then adding one cup of white vinegar.
Now there's is no way I could recommend using bleach in a setup like this in an indoor situation. My out-building is just that: an out-building. I don't live out there and generally do not spend a lot of time out there, so it becomes much less of an issue--*for me.* Additionally, I'm not really looking to apply a shock treatment. We're talking lower levels....like what? A swimming pool or less. I have no intention of pounding this with bleach. Aside from any health hazards are considerations for corroding the items in the building--don't wanna do that! :up:

The upside to mixing: Distilled water is considered neutral, but is really about pH 7.4....still very neutral, but not quite the 7.0 that most folks think it is....
The bleach pH 0f 11-12 is just way too high anyway. Vinegar is an acid, so they help neutralize each other to a degree. I've kept planted tanks and my aquatic snakes in pH as low as 5.7--they love it!







My only point is the effect on the blocks, tubing, et al....should be a non-issue.









That particular excerpt "recommends first diluting one cup of household bleach in one gallon of water and then adding one cup of white vinegar." I would guess that I have 5-6 gals of water in this setup these days. So, I'm willing to assume that 1 cup of bleach and 1-2 cups of vinegar would be a reasonable starting point and I think that's what I will try.







I just sold off my pH/C02 controllers, so I'll have to whip out the drop kit and check the pH. My water is normally pH 8.0-8.2. Even though vinegar is a disinfectant in itself....that article is focused of the benefits of bleach at a lower pH.

I'll keep reading around and keep putzing around with things and we'll see how it goes....:up:

*EDIT:
*
I emailed Alex Petra about the PT Nuke, ie, Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate and he says that the Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate is non-evaporative. That was my instinct and is further supported by Wikipedia:

Copper(II) sulfate

Quote:

Copper(II) sulfate pentahydrate decomposes before melting, losing four water molecules at 110 Â°C and all five at 150 Â°C. At 650 Â°C, copper(II) sulfate decomposes into copper(II) oxide (CuO) and sulfur trioxide (SO3). Its blue color is due to water of hydration. When heated in an open flame the crystals are dehydrated and turn grayish-white.
I really hope not to be hitting 650C any time soon.....







:

I added 1 cup of bleach and 2 cups of vinegar. Went back out there a little while ago and the scent of bleach was a bit more then I prefer. So, I'm going to have to see how long it lasts. I will probably do a periodic bleach dose and focus more on the vinegar, PT Nuke and silver. So, ATM there's 1 cup bleach, 2 cups white vinegar and 40 drops of PT Nuke in the system. *EDIT:* I was out there several times today and the bleach smell is gone. So, apparently the chlorine evaporated as it is inclined to do....







Just means that when I do a bleach dose....I'll need to stay out of there for ~24hrs.

For the incoming dust, etc from the fan intakes--I cut some of these filter pads and micro-filter pads to fit inside the bottom of the bongs. Just above the opening here:










They are made for aquarium filters. At the rate of flow plus gravity....there shouldn't be any issues. I'll just need to take them out and clean the periodically. How often? I don't know right now, but I would guess no more then once/month. Micro pad on top and 20 ppi on the bottom.


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## Naja002

Ok, after swapping some PMs with nub about this and other stuff I decided to make a modification to my bongs. I don't think this is exactly what nub had in mind, but this is what I've come up with. Mind you--it didn't work out quite as well as planned.....









First start with some pvc fittings and pipe, drill and bits, towel, zip ties and a few other odds-n-ends:










Cut the pipe and mount the fittings, and drill some holes. The very top holes (4x 3/32") are for a "spray" to run down the walls, the smaller holes (8x 1/16") are for wicking:










Drill another set of 1/16" holes (8x) a little further down:










I drilled a single 1/16" hole into each cap just so the water in the bottom part of the tube would not get stagnant:










Cut the terry cloth towel to fit. Zip tied it below the top spray holes and over the first set of wicking holes:










The tubes/wicking will extend all the down to/past the fan input area:










Here's a vid of the function. Too many holes and too big. If I would have use less holes and smaller top spray holes--this would have turned out better:



Live and learn. I may fix it, but I'm not really in the mood right now. I have to shut down the rigs et al in order to work on it.


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## nub

Very cool







Please give us some temp updates! Love the pics, very sexy they are


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## Naja002

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nub* 
Very cool







Please give us some temp updates! Love the pics, very sexy they are









Well, I can tell you this off the top:

The car rad fans have been off for 5 hrs now. Outside temps have increased 21F. The i7 has increased 11-12C. That's what? 4 hrs on the *H*orizontal *V*olenti *C*ooler alone and now ~1 hr on the new bong mod and the HVC. That's not bad at all my friend. Not bad at all!









Do you understand the concept that I was going for? What do ya think? Wicking down the terry cloth with added water running down the walls....









It's bugging me that it's not working right though....


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## nub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Naja002* 
Well, I can tell you this off the top:

The car rad fans have been off for 5 hrs now. Outside temps have increased 21F. The i7 has increased 11-12C. That's what? 4 hrs on the *H*orizontal *V*olenti *C*ooler alone and now ~1 hr on the new bong mod and the HVC. That's not bad at all my friend. Not bad at all!









Do you understand the concept that I was going for? What do ya think? Wicking down the terry cloth with added water running down the walls....









Ya, I like how you did that. No chance of the tube collapsing on you. And it should increase your surface area by a lot -







good stuff there.


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## Naja002

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nub* 
Ya, I like how you did that. No chance of the tube collapsing on you. And it should increase your surface area by a lot -







good stuff there.


That's the main issue that I've had with what you described.....I've never really understood how you manage to get the cloth to stay how/where you want it....


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## nub

A ring at the top and the bottom - copper tube bent in a circle, soldered together with a coupling. The air runs up both the outside and the inside.

But I like your design. I like one of a kind stuff, experiments ftw







Especially when they work well


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## Naja002

Quote:


Originally Posted by *nub* 
A ring at the top and the bottom - copper tube bent in a circle, soldered together with a coupling. The air runs up both the outside and the inside.

But I like your design. I like one of a kind stuff, experiments ftw







Especially when they work well









Ok, got it! Very ingenious actually. The only thing I could think of was a ring at the bottom, but I was thinking pvc.....but that would also require good vertical alignment (plumb). With what I did it will keep itself off the walls except for maybe one contact spot if the plumb is off.

Cool, very cool....


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## Naja002

Ok, messed up the bong mod a bit and it took me a minute to figure out a simple way to fix what I screwed up!







Once it dawned on me....it was like: well, yeah, DUH!







Too many holes and some that are just too big. Here's the fix:

Cut some pieces of pvc pipe of workable length and then split them:










Add some pvc glue to the pipe and DIY "Collars".....and attach collars:










Drill fewer and/or smaller holes:










Cut a few zip ties in order to get the terry cloth back up over the collars and then re-zip-tie:










Get everything set back up and check the functionality:



So I wound up with 3 rows of 4x 1/16" holes....12x 1/16" holes total...per tube.

Ok. I'm Happy now.









*Edit:* Amazing. Truly Amazing. The Bongs are virtually silent now. Almost zero water noise and the only sound left is the fans. At 13w or 8w....they are not very loud at all. Very Cool.

Outside ambient is ~83F. Out-building ambient is 95F. Res temp is 85F and HVC temp is 83.5F. I just turned on the car rad fans after having them off for 8hrs. Looking to see what effect that has on the out-building temps and all the others....


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## nub

That is looking really good there sir! Props to you for a clever fix for a unique set up








You should come visit us over in the water cooling section... we have a little thread called the bong lovers club


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## T3h_Ch33z_Muncha

Wait now i'm confused... have you got this cooler and that horizontal volenti one or


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## nub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *T3h_Ch33z_Muncha* 
Wait now i'm confused... have you got this cooler and that horizontal volenti one or









He has both, on the same loop. The 'volenti' cooler cooling the water in his bong coolers reservoir. The towels and vertical tube in the bong tower is a experiment/change to see how it will affect performance of the bong cooler.


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## l No l FeaR l

I don't understand how these work....


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## nub

Quote:


Originally Posted by *l No l FeaR l* 
I don't understand how these work....

They work by evaporation. As some of the water evaporates, it takes some heat from the surrounding area.
This is the same way that sweat evaporating on your skin lowers your body temperature.


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## Naja002

Quote:


Originally Posted by *T3h_Ch33z_Muncha* 
Wait now i'm confused... have you got this cooler and that horizontal volenti one or









Yes, it's all one system:

Yes, Another Car Radiator Thread--56K Warning!


Horizontal Volenti Cooler.....56K Warning!

Quote:


Originally Posted by *l No l FeaR l* 
I don't understand how these work....



Evaporative cooler

Quote:


Originally Posted by *Naja002* 
Added a small element to this setup. I've kept aquariums on and off for many years. Last few years they have been fully automated. Auto: Water changes, lights, C02, Fert dosing, etc, etc, etc.....don't even need to feed the fish. Anyway, Appliance timers really help out on that. I have some extras that I'm not currently using, so I decided to hook up a double appliance timer:



















This timer controls 2 appliances which is perfect for my car rad fans:










I should have done this sooner. The day time highs and the night time lows--during spring and fall-- are a real pita, because during the day I have to watch my cpu high temps and at night I have to watch out for condensation when temps outside get somewhere below 48F/9C. During the winter the setup is switched over to the indoor rad to help provide winter heat, so that's not a problem. But spring and fall are murder.....









Right now the fans are set to come on at 9am and go off at 11pm. That will save 10hrs of wear-n-tear and a little juice (90w on high). I will probably run the fans 24/7 once summer temps get here, but we'll see what happens there.

The Bongs and Horizontal Volenti Cooler handle the load very well. The only issue may be the high humidity at night and during the early morning. So, for now, between 11pm and 9am the system will run on the Bongs and HVC. Adjustments will be made as temps/issues rise....

Just quoting this over here, since turning off the car rad fans will leave the system cooling to the bongs....


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## Naja002

Just wanted to toss this up here:










i7 @3.4 (and 2 other quads) running on the Bongs and HVC only. Ambient outside is 52F/11C. Last 160hrs the max is 68C--that's bongs/HVC only at night, and bongs/HVC + Rad Fans from 9am until 11pm. Highs outside in the low 80'sF/ ~28C.

Not too bad really. It's about 90% humidity.

The i7 will do a whole lot more, of course, but the ApogeeGT block just can't handle it, so I've turned it down probably for the summer.


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## T3h_Ch33z_Muncha

why not turn it up? That's quite a low temp for an i7... and may i ask why the rad isn't on during the night?


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## Naja002

Quote:


Originally Posted by *T3h_Ch33z_Muncha* 
why not turn it up? That's quite a low temp for an i7... and may i ask why the rad isn't on during the night?


The temp is low because its 52F outside. I turned it down, so I don't need to babysit temps as they rise for the summer. The bongs and HVC can handle the load w/o the rads when it's cooler at night. So, there's no point in burning 90w for nothing....


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## ModMinded

simply amazing.... been working my way through your sig Naja!


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## Naja002

Thank You, I'm glad that you are enjoying. Sharing is half the fun!


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## Zig-Zag

That is crazy nice job


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## Naja002




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## nholder0345

someone does some reef keeping as well


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## Naja002

No reef keeping here. Never done reefs/SW for some reason, but plenty of fresh water setups. Here's one of my projects that you might enjoy: Acrochordus.com

.


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## shurik06_83

ok naja i know u like a good bong and u like ac mods lets bring them together bong that has an a/c feeding it air insted of the fans u will need antifreez to get around freezing but u can use alcohol wich might work better the ac can sit ontop of the rez the bong exaust can feed the a/c room air intake any moisture in the exaust will condense and fall back in the rez ac cold air blows inside the bong i think it would be fairly low maintnense system

i would try it but my gf would







if she found out i was going after another big project so soon so i am tosing the idea at u as u havent built anything big in the last few weeks







and u do clean work unlike me who uses a grinder in every project


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## Naja002

#3....


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## Liighthead

hey wondering if u culd make something like this but like 20" tall and like 10" wide in some sort of box xD idk..... doesnt have to be below ambient temps.... tho wuld be nice tooo









or idk like a old tall stand speaker box.... replace one side's wood.... fit a bong in thier with the vent at top..... fans at frount or back......

nother question xD how does a bong cooler work? push water up the tube and let it drop back down .... with fans pushing up ..... yeh any ways lil help with that







tempting to make one xD


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## Naja002

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


hey wondering if u culd make something like this but like 20" tall and like 10" wide in some sort of box xD idk..... doesnt have to be below ambient temps.... tho wuld be nice tooo










Evaporative Tower Cooler 56K-Denied

I see you found it, but there's an example. Problem is rapid diminishing returns...









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


or idk like a old tall stand speaker box.... replace one side's wood.... fit a bong in thier with the vent at top..... fans at frount or back......


I see no reason why you could not disguise it as such....









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Liighthead*


nother question xD how does a bong cooler work? push water up the tube and let it drop back down .... with fans pushing up ..... yeh any ways lil help with that







tempting to make one xD


Evaporative cooling

.


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## Liighthead

thx xD


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## Liighthead

Bong or all contained in the eski? like horizontal... if you know what i mean
i got a 2nd hand 55L eski and few pipes ect lying arround.. just need 2 pumps lol.

which way? horizontal or a vertical bong cooler?

bump for old ass thread haha


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## kdb424

I'm considering doing this myself. I'm curious on what ind of pump you'd suggest for cycling water through your bong (I'll pump out of my res with a standard liquid cooling pump). Also, do you use distilled water? How much evap do you have to deal with? Thanks. I'll be building this assuming that I can get the pump and bong(s) for under $100

EDIT: I'm gonna try the vertical. It's not as efficient, but I like the look for my upcoming build.


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