# [Official] Gigabyte GA-990FXA-Series Owners Thread/Club



## fidof650

Welcome, to the GA-990FXA-Series Owners Thread/Club. We look forward to hearing about your experiences with these great boards. We will try to keep this first post current with the latest relative update information and news. Our community also has a wealth of knowledge and will be glad to answer any questions you might have however, please, read through the thread to see if your question has already been addressed. Thanks!

GA-990FXA-UD7 Pic:









GA-990FXA-UD5 Pic:









GA-990FXA-UD3 Pic:









GA-990FXA-D3









*Don't miss Gigabyte's Official AMD 900 Series microsite!!!*
Click Here to Enter

*Other threads featuring discussions about this board:*

Coming Soon

*FAQ:*
(Please submit you Q&A suggestions via PM to fidof650.

*Q:* Can't find your answer?
*A:* *Gigabyte USA (CA): 626-854-9338*

*Q:* How do the board specs compare side by side?
*A:* Follow the link for a side by side manufacturer spec comparison:

Official Product Comparison

*Q:* What other threads are there featuring Gigabyte boards with the 900 series chipset?
*A:* Follow the links below:
New Gigabyte 900 series chipset boards spotted incl. 990XA-UD3, more 990FX boards

*Q:* When will these boards be available and where can I get one?
*A:* *Previously limited release locations but globally Available NOW!!!*
old retail release info:
The GA-990FXA-UD7 is available in the USA now at NewEgg.com for $249.99 USD.
The GA-990FXA-UD7 is available in Australia now at PC Case Gear for $279.00 AUS.

The GA-990FXA-UD5 is available in the USA now at NewEgg.com for $189.99 USD.
The GA-990FXA-UD5 is available in Australia now at PC Case Gear for $229.00 AUS.
The GA-990FXA-UD5 is available for pre-order from NCIX.com, a retailer in Canada. It is listed for $199.99CAD which suggests that the pricing structure will be smiler to the 890FXAs.

*Q:* Is the GA-990FXA-UD7 form factor an ATX or an XL ATX?
*A:* ATX Form Factor; 30.5cm x 26.3cm = 1.9cm wider that the GA-990FXA-UD5.

*Q:* In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
*A:* TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp

*Q:* Where can I find information about these boards?
*A:* *Links:*
Complete Gigabyte AM3+ lineup!
GA-990FXA-UD7 overview page!
GA-990FXA-UD5 overview page!
GA-990FXA-UD3 overview page!
GA-990FXA-D3 overview page!

*Q:* Where can I get the most recent BIOS Updates for these boards?
*A:* *BIOS Updates:*

GA-990FXA-UD7 download page!
GA-990FXA-UD5 download page!
GA-990FXA-UD3 download page!
GA-990FXA-D3 download page!

*Q:* How do I flash the BIOS?
*A:* *Official Q-Flash Instructions:*
Official Q-Flash Webpage
Official Q-Flash .pdf

*Official @BIOS Instructions:*
Official @BIOS Webpage

*Q:* Where do I get the most recent drivers?
*A:* *Drivers:*

GA-990FXA-UD7 download page!
GA-990FXA-UD5 download page!
GA-990FXA-UD3 download page!
GA-990FXA-D3 download page!

*Q:* Where can I get the owners manual?
*A:* *Manual:*

GA-990FXA-UD7 download page!
GA-990FXA-UD5 download page!
GA-990FXA-UD3 download page!
GA-990FXA-D3 download page!

*Q:* What memory works well in these boards?
*A:* *Gigabyte Memory Recommendations:*
Coming Soon!

*Member Memory Recommendations:* To make a memory recommendation please PM me and I'll update the spreadsheet with your data.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0At7eapuF7nsydFhrc3Y1RGtmYUNVVUdlLXJyQlR3RWc&output=html&widget=true

*Q:* Which memory should be avoided?
*A:* BAD Memory - Blacklist

Coming Soon

*Q:* I've noticed CPU V-core voltage drop in comparison to my BIOS settings.
*A:* *Gigabyte's Response:*
"GIGABYTE 990 series motherboards strictly follow the AMD AM3+ load line calibration design guide, and so CPU V-core voltage will drop according to loading. Such calibrations are built into the platform to protect the user's purchase and prevent damage to the PC system"
~Thanks Sin0822 >>>Link to Post<<<

*Q:* What articles have been written about these boards?
*A:* *Articles/Reviews:*
TweekTown in depth review
This is a twelve page detailed review of the GA-990FXA-UD7.
MotherboardNews: GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD7 Motherboard Gets Unboxed
The first YouTube unboxing video. Just short of five minutes.

Hermitage Akihabara provides detailed coverage of the preview (No English Version)
Very Detailed and tons of pics!!!

VR-Zone covers the GA-990FXA-UD7 preview in Japan
A nice basic introductory piece.

MotherboardNews provides a brief overview of the preview in Japan
A nice basic introductory piece.

*Q:* Where do I get the programs you guys refer to in your posts?
*A:* *Useful Programs:*

AMD Overdrive
Fun to tinker with... Doesn't replace BIOS OCing!
CPU-Z
The standard for displaying system specs.
HWMonitor
Good hardware monitoring program.
GPU-Z
Graphics monitoring software.
SpeedFan
Supposed to allow you to monitor system temperature and adjust fan speeds.
(More of a toy than a tool... I've never seen it work well.)
CoreTemp
Good temperature monitoring software.
OCCT
Has many great programs built into one easy to use interface - Its core is in fact OCCT
For the CPU Burn it uese Prime to hammer the CPU; For the Memory test it uses Intels LinPack Memory tester to hammer both the CPU and the Memory; For the Graphics it uses a furmark style of test; and for the Power Supply it uses combo of the above. Great overall stress testing too to make sure your system and temperatures are safe and stable.
Memtest86+
Memory testing utility. (boot disk .iso)
Prime95
A well accepted stress testing tool.
LinX
Another stress testing tool.

*Q:* What other information might be useful to me?
*A:* *Other Useful Info:*

Phenom II OC Guide
Air Cooling

*Q:* How do I become an official members of this Thread/Club?
*A:* *Official Members:*

The spreadsheet below is the Members list for current CPU-Z Validated members. To become a CPU-Z Validated member, simply add your information by following this link to the input form. Members who are already in the spread sheet may update their entry by completing the input form as if you are entering your information for the first time. Duplicate entries will be deleted in favor of the one with the most recent time-stamp so, please make sure all entries are complete. If you have a reason to keep two entries (i.e. you own two boards) please, PM fidof650 with your reason or to provide feedback or suggestions for improving this spreadsheet.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0At7eapuF7nsydEIwNl9LS3JxdzBETnJDQlY0Y1FYOXc&output=html&widget=true
Please, keep your system information up to date (edit your system info here) in order that we may establish context for your comments. Owning the GA-990FXA-UD5/UD7 is not a requirement of membership but is recommended as your stats will remain unceremoniously blank without it. Non-owners or non-validated owners must ask (via PM) to be added to the member list.

The below members have not yet provided CPU-Z Validation or are not board-owners.

--///-- fidof650
--///-- otakunorth
--///-- Johnny2000
--///-- Matas
--///-- PureOC Jim
--///-- frostedflakes
--///-- Sin0822
--///-- m_jones_
--///-- toddville393
--///-- hacksaw907
--///-- Lostintyme
--///-- kzone75
--///-- v3dgames
--///-- OverclockedUnicorn
--///-- VaNiaL
--///-- LukaTCE
--///-- BramSLI1
--///-- JorundJ
--///-- steamboat
--///-- langer1972
--///-- Dhalmel
--///-- JMDooley
--///-- Johnny2000
--///-- gtsteviiee
--///-- Scope
--///-- JunkoXan
--///-- Matas
--///-- Lucky 13 SpeedShop
--///-- q8bohmed
--///-- XBATHORYX
--///-- Fediuld
--///-- V-FrIeNd
--///-- VaNiaL
--///-- mxthunder
--///-- LBear
--///-- Evil Penguin

*Additional Information:*

Quote:


> CPU-Z Validation does not denote stability. Please, provide a description of any stability testing if available.


If I have missed anyone, PM me and I'll add you.

Please PM fidof650 with any suggestions for improving this thread.

Signature (per your discretion, edit code to reflect your board):

Code:



Code:


[CENTER]
[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club][B][SIZE=4]
[COLOR=Red]*Official* [/COLOR] :sonic: [COLOR=Blue]Gigabyte[/COLOR] GA-990FXA-Series :sonic:[B][COLOR=Red] *Thread/Club*[/COLOR] [/SIZE][/B][/URL] 
[/CENTER]

More GA-990FXA-UD7 Pix:


----------



## xd_1771

Now THIS is a motherboard club







great info, pictures, etc.

I'm thinking of taking over for the midrange guys starting a Gigabyte 990X series motherboard club (I'm hoping for another UD4 of that with great value just like the 790XT







)

Only thing I might have a problem about here is the "Unofficial" thread title... a member complained about it being superfluous.


----------



## hitoriko

this looks like my new board









as soon as i can find it in a shop i'll be getting one and running it with twin 560ti's


----------



## xcooling

looks good.. will be upgrading from 890fx ;-P


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xcooling;13604909*
> looks good.. will be upgrading from 890fx ;-P


I'll be making the same move









~fidof650


----------



## hitoriko

when is the eta of release?


----------



## Blueduck3285

*** is that connection below where it says ATX4P? What I search on google is that its a 4pin but thats not talking about the ATX4P in the picture. If it is a power connection for better voltage stability for GPU's, well that wouldnt make any kinda of... normally put that as a 6 or 8 pin above the PCI-E slots.

Help me please! I want to know!


----------



## mav2000

Beautiful, just beautiful, finally AMD gets some loving. I only wish the clear cmos was on the rear of the board, so that we could clear cmos, without opening the case. But otherwise this is just stunning. Hope the UD5 is as good looking.


----------



## nonamelab

MB is already on Gigabyte site : http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3880#ov


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;13621705*
> MB is already on Gigabyte site : http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3880#ov


Added to P1,

Thanks for the update

~fidof650


----------



## mastical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitoriko;13613529*
> when is the eta of release?


Anyone?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mastical;13625217*
> Anyone?


Speculation is that it will be announced at the Computex International Pre-show Press Conference & New Product Preview on May 30th or soon thereafter.

~fidof650


----------



## nonamelab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650;13624984*
> Added to P1,
> 
> Thanks for the update
> 
> ~fidof650


They took down the link from the website








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blueduck3285;13613616*
> *** is that connection below where it says ATX4P? What I search on google is that its a 4pin but thats not talking about the ATX4P in the picture. If it is a power connection for better voltage stability for GPU's, well that wouldnt make any kinda of... normally put that as a 6 or 8 pin above the PCI-E slots.
> 
> Help me please! I want to know!


That is a 4-pin ATX4P = Auxiliary power connector for graphics card were you connect a s-ata power cable.

I think they put it there to look good


----------



## Chuckclc

Looking at this poll: http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1024212-what-new-990fx-board-you-getting.html

This could be a busy thread.


----------



## Blueduck3285

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;13629652*
> They took down the link from the website
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a 4-pin ATX4P = Auxiliary power connector for graphics card were you connect a s-ata power cable.
> 
> I think they put it there to look good


They certainly did take down the link.

Thats weird about the 4pin atx4p connector, most mobos I see that need extra power are running just a straight 6 pin connector like for CPU's. I didn't think the sata power cable could push enough for the PCI slots, maybe I am wrong.


----------



## nonamelab

The link is back online









And also on download tab you can download the manual : http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-990fxa-ud7_e.pdf









@Blueduck3285: On page 25 of the manual :
Quote:


> ATX4P (PCIe Power Connector) The power connector provides auxiliary power to the onboard PCI Express x16 slots. When two or more
> graphics cards are to be installed, we recommend that you connect the SATA power cable from the power supply to the ATX4P connector to ensure system stability.


----------



## langer1972

This is going to be the fist thing I buy for my new AMD FX build.


----------



## Dhalmel

Count me in for this motherboard.


----------



## hitoriko

this is gonna hurt my bank account BAD


----------



## tw33k

Buying one as soon as I can


----------



## chasefrench

really want to get the ud5, 6 core and 60gb ssd


----------



## hitoriko

would it be possible to run 2 cards SLI and 2 Xfire?


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hitoriko;13642024*
> would it be possible to run 2 cards SLI and 2 Xfire?


That is a great question that I think would be of particular interest to folders!

It will be added to P1...

Should anyone find an answer before me please please notify me post haste so I can update P1.

Thanks,
~fidof650


----------



## JMDooley

Boy!!!








Am I glad I waited to Upgrade!








I was looking to get either the 890FX-UD5 or go with an Intel 1366 Socket board for my next upgrade. But after checking out the latest AM3+ 990FX boards I'm going with this beauty!!!!








I am looking to do a AMD HD 6990 Quad-Crossfire setup on this board.
Looking forward to all the great posts on this forum!
James


----------



## nonamelab

Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 has apear on gigabyte website:http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#ov
I see they removed the butons for power,reset&clear cmos. And they got the rev writed wrong : 0.1


















Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 for compare


----------



## otakunorth

http://ncix.com/products/?sku=61546&vpn=GA-990FXA-UD5&manufacture=Gigabyte
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!
also 199 canadian


----------



## xd_1771

mmmm that UD5 looks scrumdiddlyum-dicious

otakunorth: WAIT, WHAT DID YOU JUST SAY!?







NCIX, local store, SELLING IT NOW!?







$190!!!?!?!?


----------



## otakunorth

taking pre orders
at least we have a price


----------



## godofdeath

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xd_1771;13651604*
> mmmm that UD5 looks scrumdiddlyum-dicious
> 
> otakunorth: WAIT, WHAT DID YOU JUST SAY!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NCIX, local store, SELLING IT NOW!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $190!!!?!?!?


pre order pre order


----------



## ikem

ooooo i was wondering what the ud5 would look like... im glad they still kept the black. i was still up in the air if i would have the cash to get a ud7.. so looks like i can still paint the accent pieces orange to match my build.


----------



## gooface

the GA-990FXA-UD5 is mine!!

I hope all bulldozer stuff gets released at E3 like they said originally so I can get this board!


----------



## fortunesolace

Does an AM3 CPU block will work on these mobos? BD is starting to look good for me!


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fortunesolace;13652729*
> does an am3 cpu block will work on these mobos? Bd is starting to look good for me!


yup! :d


----------



## trevorjames

I just picked up a Crosshair IV and I have a couple of questions for you all.

Do you think it'd be advantageous to return it and go with the UD5 or UD7 of this board instead? Will it have enough benefits? On NCIX it's actually _cheaper_ then this year old mobo.

How decent is Newegg's return policy? Experiences?

And finally (I apologize) what exactly _is_ the difference between the UD5 and the UD7?

Thank you


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trevorjames;13659526*
> I just picked up a Crosshair IV and I have a couple of questions for you all.
> 
> Do you think it'd be advantageous to return it and go with the UD5 or UD7 of this board instead? Will it have enough benefits? On NCIX it's actually _cheaper_ then this year old mobo.
> 
> How decent is Newegg's return policy? Experiences?
> 
> And finally (I apologize) what exactly _is_ the difference between the UD5 and the UD7?
> 
> Thank you


Well, this board is not out yet so if you are itching to build it would not be the right choice.

NewEgg rocks at costumer service!!! The have always made good on any issue I have ever had and they give out $25 and $50 gift cards liberally when you experience a problem (They don't always offer but they have never said no when I asked).

The main difference between the UD5 and the UD7 in both the 890FXA series and the 990FXA series is the UD7s have more advanced features for enthusiasts who are interested in extreme builds.

For example, the 990FXA-UD7 has on-board Power, Reset, and Clear CMOS switches and the 990FXA-UD5 does not.

The 990FXA-UD7 will have more crossfire and SLI capability than the 990FXA-UD5.

990FXA-UD7
"Support for 2-Way/3-Way/4-Way AMD CrossFireX™ and NVIDIA SLI™ technology"
vs
990FXA-UD5
"Support for 2-Way/3-Way AMD CrossFireX™ and NVIDIA SLI™ technology"

990FXA-UD7
1. 2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x16 (PCIEX16_1, PCIEX16_2)
2. 2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x8 (PCIEX8_1, PCIEX8_2)
3. 2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x4 (PCIEX4_1, PCIEX4_2)
(All PCI Express slots conform to the PCI Express 2.0 standard.)
4. 1 x PCI slot
vs
990FXA-UD5
1. 2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x16 (PCIEX16_1, PCIEX16_2)
2. 1 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x8 (PCIEX8)
3. 2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x4 (PCIEX4_1, PCIEX4_2)
4. 1 x PCI Express x1 slot
(All PCI Express slots conform to the PCI Express 2.0 standard.)
5. 1 x PCI slot

There are more examples but you get the drift. Both the UD5 and the UD7 qualify as an enthusiast board. Most likely you will find that there performance is neck and neck until you spend the coin to fill the extra slots with additional GPUs (I can't imagination bank rolling 4 premium GPUs!!!). They are close siblings but the UD7 has more bells and whistles.

Hope this helps









~fidof650


----------



## trevorjames

Thanks for that! I have until mid June to return so hopefully everything will be released before then!


----------



## xd_1771

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1027802-new-gigabyte-900-series-chipset-boards.html
^^^ This thread for a Gigabyte 990X board and two more 990FX boards including a UD3!


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xd_1771;13667886*
> http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1027802-new-gigabyte-900-series-chipset-boards.html
> ^^^ This thread for a Gigabyte 990X board and two more 990FX boards including a UD3!


P1 updated:

* A link to the above thread has been added

* Content has been added

~fidof650


----------



## Fr0sty

tough choice between crosshair V and giga ud7









i guess a full round up once the 900 series chipset is officially out id have a better picture of if this board is better for me or not


----------



## JE Nightmare

i'm in love with the all black ud3, to bad i'm getting the ud7. :-/


----------



## Tator Tot

I removed the Unofficial Tag as they are not supposed to be used. If you see a thread tagged with [UnOfficial] or any other variation in the title. Please report it so a Moderator or Editor can remove it.

All threads are Unofficial unless specified otherwise.


----------



## Paradigm

As to be expected little to no improvement from SB850 to SB950. I had great hopes that maybe AMD would try to catch up to intel with the storage controller department.


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated:

* 2 more boards have been added to complete the GA-990FXA-Series

* Content has been added to accommodate the additional boards

* Spread sheets have been updated to accommodate the additional boards

Note: If it is discovered that these boards are performing radically different I may create a sub group in order to preserve the continuity of the discussions. Having two boards worked well the last time and actually generated great discussions with useful content.

~fidof650


----------



## oldsu

Hi, just found article about unboxing of GA-990FXA-UD7:

http://motherboardnews.com/2011/05/30/gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud7-motherboard-gets-unboxed/


----------



## lan cable garrotte string

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=416&products_id=17499

GA-990FXA-UD5 $229.00 AU, not bad.

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=416&products_id=17500

GA-990FXA-UD7 $279.00 AU


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lan cable garrotte string;13693599*
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=416&products_id=17499
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD5 $229.00 AU, not bad.
> 
> http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=416&products_id=17500
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD7 $279.00 AU


OMG! Thanks mate. Ordering now.

UPDATE: Got it! $AU300 including delivery

View attachment 213103


----------



## lan cable garrotte string

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13693881*
> OMG! Thanks mate. Ordering now.
> 
> UPDATE: Got it! $AU300 including delivery
> 
> View attachment 213103


haha awesome! Let us know how she runs once you get it.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lan cable garrotte string;13694447*
> haha awesome! Let us know how she runs once you get it.


I will for sure. Now I need new RAM though. Still waiting for BD before I upgrade the chip.


----------



## fidof650

Congratulations tw33k on becoming the first owner member of the club! W00T!!!

P1 updated with availability information and new member added.

~fidof650


----------



## tw33k

Cool. I should have it in a week. Very excited

@fidof650..I removed "Unofficial" from my sig. Maybe you should remove it from the OP


----------



## nonamelab

I have just read on bitech that the new amd cpus might be delayed till september because they are unstable









http://www.bit-tech.net/news/hardware/2011/05/31/rumour-am3-cpus-delayed-until-september/1

If the rumors gets real it will be a very bad moment to buy new motherboard


----------



## tw33k

Bummer if it's true


----------



## Johnny2000

Now a norwegian webshop has put up 990fx board. I am just about to press order on a UD3 but I need to buy memory as well. My 4 years old mobo has DDR2 so I guess I can't use those on the new board, right? I don't know which modules to choose. I am thinking of Corsairs Vengeance or XMS3. But it says that the XMS3's are 1.65V and the Vengeance is 1.5V. Does this matter? I know it says on gigabytes homepage that it uses 1.5V memory.

Could use some advice here.


----------



## Johnny2000

Here is some kind of brochures of the 990 series at gigabyte: http://www.gigabyte.com/microsite/281/900-series.html


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;13696702*
> 
> If the rumors gets real it will be a very bad moment to buy new motherboard


The actual/current Phenom 2 CPU-s work in this new mobos mate.
There is no problem whatsoever to upgrade to the mobos now. NONE !

The CPU-s will be released ,i m 100% sure ,in the next 1,2,3 months ,for sale.

Once this Gigabyte goodies go live in my country i m getting one


----------



## nonamelab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes;13699911*
> The actual/current Phenom 2 CPU-s work in this new mobos mate.
> There is no problem whatsoever to upgrade to the mobos now. NONE !
> 
> The CPU-s will be released ,i m 100% sure ,in the next 1,2,3 months ,for sale.
> 
> Once this Gigabyte goodies go live in my country i m getting one


Well there is a problem upgrading because till september we will not know for sure if they don't change the 990 chipset to fix new cpu instability. I prefer to wait and be sure than sorry.

Anyway AMD has said that the new cpus will work on AM3 socket but they will not be officially supported.


----------



## tw33k

It's a bummer for me because installing a new board means hours of cable management so I'm not going to install it now with my current chip and do it all again in a couple months. The board will be here next week but I think it'll stay in it's box til I can get a BD chip.


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonamelab;13708114*
> Well there is a problem upgrading because till september we will not know for sure if they don't change the 990 chipset to fix new cpu instability. I prefer to wait and be sure than sorry.
> 
> Anyway AMD has said that the new cpus will work on AM3 socket but they will not be officially supported.


The CPU instability may be related to the IMC in the CPU (or due to something else they integrated) and not due to the chipset.
This in case the RUMORS about a chip instability are real.Or in case this apply to stock clocks if real.

So i personally doubt that the 9xx chipset has anything wrong in it or that AMD will drop it for Bulldozer.They wouldn t have released it at all with new mobos.
Every CPU that AMD will release will be able to work with any chipset as it s backwards compatible.I m sure you can take a crappy old VIA chipset and pair it with the Bulldozer just fine ,but with penalityes in CPU<->chipset communication performance wise.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13709221*
> It's a bummer for me because installing a new board means hours of cable management so I'm not going to install it now with my current chip and do it all again in a couple months. The board will be here next week but I think it'll stay in it's box til I can get a BD chip.


I personally can t stay near a tastefull cake and not eat it.I don t think you will be able to stay away from that mobo







You know very well you will install that goodie in a matter of hours after it s in your house









I don t know what you do ,but i will buy an AM3+ mobo in the next days once they are available.








Switching from AM2+ to AM3+ is ,at least for me ,a big jump,i should see some enhancements even without the Bulldozer.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes;13709447*
> I personally can t stay near a tastefull cake and not eat it.I don t think you will be able to stay away from that mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know very well you will install that goodie in a matter of hours after it s in your house
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don t know what you do ,but i will buy an AM3+ mobo in the next days once they are available.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Switching from AM2+ to AM3+ is ,at least for me ,a big jump,i should see some enhancements even without the Bulldozer.


pmsl...you know me too well. That's probably what'll happen to be honest. I've been waiting so long to upgrade from my current board.


----------



## Johnny2000

990FXA-UD3 in stock in Norway now. Hopefully mine ships tomorrow 
I bought 2x4 Corsair Vengeance 1600 CL9 with it. If that's not I good choice, please let me know so I can change my order before it ships.


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny2000;13727789*
> 990FXA-UD3 in stock in Norway now. Hopefully mine ships tomorrow
> I bought 2x4 Corsair Vengeance 1600 CL9 with it. If that's not I good choice, please let me know so I can change my order before it ships.


in my experience current amd chip respond better to lower latency rather then higher speeds


----------



## Philistine

I'm soooo wanting the UD7, but I can't commit to $280 (looks like they don't ship internationally anyways) without an English review.

Not sure this has been posted before, but there's a Japanese language review of the UD7 board up: http://translate.google.com/translate?js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&sl=auto&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.gdm.or.jp%2Freview%2Fmb%2Fgigabyte%2FGA-990FXA-UD7%2Findex_01.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Google Translation*
> So far, AMD's new chipset "AMD 990FX" + "SB 950" equipped with "GA-990FXA-UD7" has been checked. Power luxurious surroundings, a rich interface and features such as better cooling GIGABYTE has become a high-end Moderurashii made. In addition, AM3 CPU while the test using a very stable operation, the new chipset "AMD 990FX" + "SB 950" suggests that a high degree of perfection.


----------



## BullsEyeGuy

I just went to a very robust electronics market here in Seoul, Korea, and apparently the Gigabyte 990FX isn't coming here until mid-July. Since I can't wait that long i'm going to have to just order one.


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny2000;13727789*
> 990FXA-UD3 in stock in Norway now.


So how much is it in euros with no shipping and VAT included ?!


----------



## Evil Penguin

The UD7 looks so sexy.








It's that or the CH V Extreme (yet to be announced).


----------



## Johnny2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dromihetes;13757961*
> so how much is it in euros with no shipping and vat included ?!


990fxa-ud3 = €111

990fxa-ud5 = €142

990fxa-ud7 = €183


----------



## otakunorth

my ud5 came D.O.A
anyone else have issues with theirs? im really pissed at the moment


----------



## otakunorth

re seated everything, and i got it to post this time (must of been a short, most likely my bad)
installing windows right now
the bios is the same one they have been using for 5 years. kinda disappointed with that


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny2000;13761231*
> 990fxa-ud3 = €111
> 
> 990fxa-ud5 = €142
> 
> 990fxa-ud7 = €183


Thanks mate !








Now i ll wait for the importers to move their lazy ... and get them to the stores








The UD 3 has a good price no doubt.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otakunorth;13761958*
> re seated everything, and i got it to post this time (must of been a short, most likely my bad)
> installing windows right now
> the bios is the same one they have been using for 5 years. kinda disappointed with that


Is there any Nikos mosfets on the board ?!


----------



## tw33k

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKtUNMnCP9U[/ame]

Sound's not working for me

Mine will be here this week!


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes;13762313*
> Is there any Nikos mosfets on the board ?!


sorry, i cant tell at the moment


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otakunorth;13761958*
> re seated everything, and i got it to post this time (must of been a short, most likely my bad)
> installing windows right now
> the bios is the same one they have been using for 5 years. kinda disappointed with that


Remember they are just the same as 800 series boards. The only difference in the 900 series boards will be native Bulldozer support and native SLI support. Maybe thats why they made them look so nice, so they could sale a few.


----------



## prznar1

gigabyte, you could not mess this board (GA-990FXA-D3) more. why they get the two upper slots one slot lower? this could be such a great budget board for quad gpu setup on a budget...


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otakunorth;13767172*
> sorry, i cant tell at the moment


Ok i understand.Keep in mind i m not referring to the VRM mosfets ,as i doubt Nikos can make the ones Gigabyte uses for the VRM on this boards.I am referring to the ones used across the board.
Have fun with the board !


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prznar1;13767303*
> gigabyte, you could not mess this board (GA-990FXA-D3) more. why they get the two upper slots one slot lower? this could be such a great budget board for quad gpu setup on a budget...


So you buy the other ones








They want you to pay more for some features.

LE:Sorry for the double post instead of the multiquote.


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes;13769443*
> Ok i understand.Keep in mind i m not referring to the VRM mosfets ,as i doubt Nikos can make the ones Gigabyte uses for the VRM on this boards.I am referring to the ones used across the board.
> Have fun with the board !


will try to remember to look when i get home
after the ordeal i had building this rig i didnt want to open it again for a wile









So far the 990FXA-UD5 is a amazing board, high quality and allows for a lot better overclocking then my 790X-UD4
I can hit 4.2 easy now with a high ht, can do over 260 fsb now. the UD4 would crap out after 255~ without a ton of volts


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otakunorth;13771469*
> will try to remember to look when i get home
> after the ordeal i had building this rig i didnt want to open it again for a wile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So far the 990FXA-UD5 is a amazing board, high quality and allows for a lot better overclocking then my 790X-UD4
> I can hit 4.2 easy now with a high ht, can do over 260 fsb now. the UD4 would crap out after 255~ without a ton of volts


Thanks!

The fact that the boards clock better is good news.


----------



## PufPufPass

I will get the 990fx-ud3 I think, I want 8+2 phase, am3+ for future BD and 32 GB of mem, I only will put 1 GPU, so I do not need support for more than one SLI and it had on board USB3 header, it should be arround $130 or so, plus it looks the best I think, all black!


----------



## PufPufPass

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PufPufPass;13777075*
> I will get the 990fx-ud3 I think, I want 8+2 phase, am3+ for future BD and 32 GB of mem, I only will put 1 GPU, so I do not need support for more than one SLI and it had on board USB3 header, it should be arround $130 or so, plus it looks the best I think, all black!


So when 990fx-ud3 coming out in USA, any idea?


----------



## gtsteviiee

Oh boy, I can't wait to get the UD5. Pure black and I can finally SLI my 460's!

But, where's the clear CMOS stuff?


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee;13780045*
> Oh boy, I can't wait to get the UD5. Pure black and I can finally SLI my 460's!
> 
> But, where's the clear CMOS stuff?


just the old school style jumper


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes;13762313*
> 
> Is there any Nikos mosfets on the board ?!


yes there are some


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gtsteviiee;13780045*
> Oh boy, I can't wait to get the UD5. Pure black and I can finally SLI my 460's!
> 
> But, where's the clear CMOS stuff?


UD7 only.


----------



## tw33k

Will be here on time so I can spend the weekend setting everything up

View attachment 214116


----------



## BullsEyeGuy

Nice! I am checking Newegg everyday for this thing!


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BullsEyeGuy;13781675*
> Nice! I am checking Newegg everyday for this thing!


You arent the only one. Not necessarily for the UD7 but for any of them. C'mon!!!


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otakunorth;13780226*
> yes there are some


Thanks for the feedback.It seems they drive fans and some auxiliary stuff on other Gigabyte mobos.They should be ok for such stuff theoretically.


----------



## tw33k

I can't believe they are available here so soon. We usually have to wait for new tech


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13782670*
> I can't believe they are available here so soon. We usually have to wait for new tech


They are not here








But somehow is good as you are the first to use them and see the bugs


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dromihetes;13787929*
> They are not here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But somehow is good as you are the first to use them and see the bugs


umm...O-K


----------



## tw33k

It's here! Now I gotta wait til Friday to install it (unless I take tomorrow off work)


----------



## mastical

Such a nice looking board


----------



## tw33k

It's probably the best bit of gear I've ever bought. I wanna go home right now and install it but setting it all up, cable management etc takes time. Then I'll have to do it all again in August when the BD chips are out


----------



## Philistine




----------



## Scope

Hopefully I'll be able to join this club soon, going to have to wait a while though, just bought my 955 about six months ago.


----------



## Tatakai All

I'm waiting on some BD benches before I decide if I'm gonna get a 990FXA-UD7 or a Crosshair V. That 990FXA-UD7 is one seriously sick looking mobo!


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13788518*
> umm...O-K


Someone on some forum (can t remember where i saw) was complaining that what you ve bought ,the UD7, may have issues with SATA performance.This is what i was referring to







Usually the first to get new stuff may hit some bugs of the product.
In my country stores i still can t see this 9xx series.

Have fun with that beauty!


----------



## PufPufPass

when are they going to hit USA? I want the all black UD3! Unless I go Intel route and get Z68 board with SB 2500 chip.. but both would be giga boards I think, they look great!


----------



## mxthunder

Yeah, when are these dam things gonna hit newegg already?!


----------



## JE Nightmare

I seriously hope someone makes a full cover water block for the UD7. I refuse to buy a Crosshair just so i can get a full cover block.


----------



## otakunorth

anyone have an idea what is the best tool to check temps on a 990 board?
im using aida64 and its averaging around 18c, as awesome as my cooler is im thinking it should be around 30


----------



## PufPufPass

do you guys think if I go with 990fx-ud3 board, it will be easy to overclock compared to 990fx Asus boards? Gigabyte site does nto say much about OC features for this board. I am thinking of buying X6 1055T for now and upgrade to BD when it comes out, and over clock the X6 for now on my new setup I am building. I love the all black board look of the UB3! I am not going to have more than 1 video card in it as I am not a big gamer, just video editing.. so I do not need UD7 or UD5. thanks for any info..

EDIT: I think I rather save money and get X2 chip and unlock the other 2 cores, will it be possible on these 990FX-UD3 boards you think? And then buy the BD or X6 chips that will be half price that they are now.. please advise guys?!


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PufPufPass;13797666*
> EDIT: I think I rather save money and get X2 chip and unlock the other 2 cores, will it be possible on these 990FX-UD3 boards you think? And then buy the BD or X6 chips that will be half price that they are now.. please advise guys?!


Keep in mind that unlocking cores is not guaranteed on any board. I depends on the specific cpu and weather or not the dormant cores are functional or not.

That said, the 99FXA-UD3 should be able to unlock any cpu that is able to be unlocked.

~fidof650


----------



## 161029

Can't wait to do a bulldozer build with this.


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otakunorth;13797580*
> anyone have an idea what is the best tool to check temps on a 990 board?
> im using aida64 and its averaging around 18c, as awesome as my cooler is im thinking it should be around 30


The sensor goes more precise the higher the CPU temp goes.


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Dromihetes*


The sensor goes more precise the higher the CPU temp goes.


its still way off


----------



## LukaTCE

I am planning to get GA-990FXA-UD3 it have pci-e x16/x16 right ?
I saw some test x16/x8 or x8/x8 have 3+FPS ingame then x16/x16
I can buy it only for 100â‚¬ (cheapest in EU) and shop is get it next week







(i hope)
If sombody is interested but i think they don't ship (deliver) internationaly http://www.enaa.com/oddelki/racunaln..._ga-990fxa-ud3


----------



## Philistine

Tweaktown has a 12 page review of the 990FXA-UD7 up: http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4140/gigabyte_990fxa_ud7_amd_990fx_motherboard_review/index.html


----------



## FDS

oh wow, these boards are gorgeous. UD3 will definitely be my next mobo.


----------



## LukaTCE

Anyone know what accessories 990FXA-UD3 include ?


----------



## JunkoXan

i wonder how much the GA-990FXA-UD3 will be i know the UD5 is being sold for 200 at NCIX im wondering if it'll be like 175-180..


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JunkoXan*


i wonder how much the GA-990FXA-UD3 will be i know the UD5 is being sold for 200 at NCIX im wondering if it'll be like 175-180..



Quote:



Originally Posted by *Johnny2000*


990fxa-ud3 = â‚¬111

990fxa-ud5 = â‚¬142

990fxa-ud7 = â‚¬183


You should have an idea now about the price.


----------



## JunkoXan

if it is $161 used then im getting the UD3 :V.

when will the UD3 be released btw? anyone know?


----------



## Matas

Choosing between 990X-UD3 and 990FX-UD5. I don't know if the latter is worth +90$?


----------



## JunkoXan

personally i'd go for the UD3 by what i see not really missing much with the UD5 comparing to the UD3 but i wish i knew when the UD3 will come out..


----------



## Matas

990FX-UD5 over 990X (not 990FX)-UD3 offers better mosfets and core chokes, better cooling and more PCI-e lines (doesn't need more than two way SLI/CF support).


----------



## Lindyrig

Wish newegg had the UD5... I would just return my 890 and call it a day...


----------



## JunkoXan

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Matas*


990FX-UD5 over 990X (not 990FX)-UD3 offers better mosfets and core chokes, better cooling and more PCI-e lines (doesn't need more than two way SLI/CF support).


ah well personally im going for the FX UD3 model







it matches my case perfectly and has all the functions i basically would ever need


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LukaTCE;13811009*
> Anyone know what accessories 990FXA-UD3 include ?


the ud5 just came with a sli bridge and some sata cables


----------



## Johnny2000

In 10 hours I will pick up my UD3 so if you want I could make a unboxing video of it 

I read the review of the UD7 and I have to say that I was a little bit dissapointed that the I/O shield wasn't black. I mean they almost had it all; black board, black cables - even SLI/CF cables were black, but not the I/O shield :-( I am crossing my fingers for my UD3 to have black I/O shield but I know it's highly unlikely.

I have painted all my pci brackets black so that's why I care 

View attachment 214565


I didn't bother with my existing shield since it will soon move out of the case


----------



## CesarNYC

Almost bought the UD5 from NCIX but they don't take CC from the US? All the other payment options seem to really slow down the order. I wonder why there aren't any US sellers yet?


----------



## tw33k

My new RAM didn't arrive today so I can't install the new board yet


----------



## Matas

Ordered GA-990XA-UD3 Will have in my hands on Monday.


----------



## Lostintyme

Subbed. Buying the UD7 once it comes out on NewEgg and pairing it with a PHII X3 720 Black Edition unlocked to X4, and 4GBs of 1600MHZ 9-9-9-24. I can't wait.

Edit: How can everyone on this thread not notice the UD3/UD5 don't have onboard on/off switches? Big deal breaker for me.


----------



## JunkoXan

to me on/off switch just get in the way of things XD soo i got no use for them


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;13820010*
> Edit: How can everyone on this thread not notice the UD3/UD5 don't have onboard on/off switches? Big deal breaker for me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650;13600279*
> Our community also has a wealth of knowledge and will be glad to answer any questions you might have however, please, read through the thread to see if your question has already been addressed. Thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650;13662465*
> The main difference between the UD5 and the UD7 in both the 890FXA series and the 990FXA series is the UD7s have more advanced features for enthusiasts who are interested in extreme builds.
> 
> For example, the 990FXA-UD7 has on-board Power, Reset, and Clear CMOS switches and the 990FXA-UD5 does not.


I hate it when that happens









~fidof650


----------



## Johnny2000

Got my UD3 today







It's four years since my last board so I'm pretty excited.

Here's what in the box - except the Corsair modules - just had them in the picture to show how well they matched the board.

View attachment 214649


Now, for some reason they didn't include CF-bridge - only SLI. So if any UD7 owner want to sell me a black CF-bridge, please PM me.

I did a little video, but since it has been so incredible nice weather today, I haven't put much effort into it.

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw0ClEzHCNs[/ame]


----------



## JunkoXan

D: gimmie D: XD i gotta wait till NCIX,Tigerdirect or Newegg gets it >_> bah


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650;13822249*
> I hate it when that happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~fidof650


I saw your bit in the OP about them, but how everyone does not use them is a mystery to me. I upgrade hardware so often my motherboard is constantly out of the case, I guess you all must keep your rigs in cases 24/7.


----------



## m_jones_

Excellent thread so far!
Does anyone know where I could purchase a 990FXA-UD3 from in the UK? Thanks.


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

I'll be getting my UD7 Wednesday, because I spent my mobo funds on a reference 6950 2GB the night before they were available to buy. Not that I feel bad about it at all, seeing that NCIX(US) is price gouging us on shipping charges (and the board price too, it seems).

I'll wait for SuperBiiz, or the Egg to get them in stock.


----------



## JE Nightmare

to the people that have picked up a 990fxa board, have you guys had any problems with the memory you're currently running?


----------



## BramSLI1

I have had this board for a few days now and I have to say that it is absolutely amazing. My current rig has a Phenom II 955 @3.8 GHz, 4 gigs of Kingston DDR3 1333 MHz RAM, a GeForce GTX 560 Ti, and a Kingston V+ 128 gig SSD. I'm going to try and include some screen shots and pics. Let me know if there are any benchmarks that you want me to run. I have been playing Crysis 2 with this and it runs incredibly smooth at maximum settings. I am also using a BenQ 1680x1050 22 inch LCD monitor. And of course I'm using a Cooler Master HAF X nVidia Edition case.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;13840785*
> to the people that have picked up a 990fxa board, have you guys had any problems with the memory you're currently running?


I am testing a UD5 as we speak. No problems with memory but I am falling 60MHz short of my high stable overclock with a Phenom II 980 @ 4.514Ghz with the 890FXA-UD5. I am stable after 1 hr prime95 @4.45Ghz/







. Keep getting a rounding error and I increased each voltage setting by 1 notch and cannot pull it off. Still, not a bad OC stable. I will see if I can pull off a 4.7Ghz suicide tomorrow and put it under dry ice.(5.6Ghz??? weeeee!)


----------



## fidof650

Don't forget to add your CPU-Z validation and system specs to the spreadsheet guys!
This is a great way to support our community with tested configuration info.
https://spreadsheets.google.com/spr...mkey=dEIwNl9LS3JxdzBETnJDQlY0Y1FYOXc6MA#gid=0

Also, PM me with memory recommendations and warnings so I can keep that spreadsheet updated as well.

Thanks,

~fidof650


----------



## BramSLI1

JE Nightmare, I'm having no problems with my Kingston Hyper X memory. I haven't tried overclocking it yet though.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13841067*
> I am testing a UD5 as we speak. No problems with memory...


What memory?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;13848818*
> JE Nightmare, I'm having no problems with my Kingston Hyper X memory. I haven't tried overclocking it yet though.


If people are having success with memory please PM me the model number so I can add it to the "Member Tested" list.

Likewise, please PM me the model number of any memory that is giving you trouble so I can note it as well.

I'd like to make the memory compatibility list as comprehensive as possible.

Thanks,

~fidof650


----------



## BramSLI1

The memory I'm using is the Kingston "LoVo" KHX1333C9D3UK2/4GX. I've had no problems with it. I have yet to overclock it though. I hope this helps.


----------



## polynomialc

VIA VT6308 chip firewire chip onboard... man.. gigabyte.. your killing me, my ud5 had nice TI firewire chipset perfect for firewire audio







VIA = garbage. obviously a cost saving decision from gigabyte, wierd since Z68X-UD5-B3 uses TI


----------



## Philistine

Newegg has the GIGABYTE GA-990XA-UD3 for $149.99 + $7.87 s/h: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128510

Still no UD5 or UD7.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philistine;13858384*
> Newegg has the GIGABYTE GA-990XA-UD3 for $149.99 + $7.87 s/h: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128510
> 
> Still no UD5 or UD7.


Everyone submit product recommendations to Newegg for the UD7/UD5.


----------



## q8bohmed

GA-990FXA-UD5

Q: 1 x PCI Express x1 slot ?

I have Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD ( PCIEX1 ) , I Wonder If Not Interference With The Heat-Sink >>> [ AMD 990FX chipset ] .


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *q8bohmed*


GA-990FXA-UD5

Q: 1 x PCI Express x1 slot ?

I have Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD ( PCIEX1 ) , I Wonder If Not Interference With The Heat-Sink >>> [ AMD 990FX chipset ] .











Probably, if it doesn't work feel free to stick it in any other PCI-E slot.


----------



## q8bohmed

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*


Probably, if it doesn't work feel free to stick it in any other PCI-E slot.


ty for your reply ...









but i have more Adapter ,

[1] Linksys Wireless-N Dual-Band WMP600N ( PCI )
[1] Intel Gigabit Ct Desktop Adapter ( PCIEX1 )
[1] Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD ( PCIEX1 )

My Config 2 Way SLI Asus ENGTX460 DIRECTCU TOP/2DI/1GD5 Blue Edition

This is why i really need that PCI-E X1


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *q8bohmed;13862224*
> ty for your reply ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i have more Adapter ,
> 
> [1] Linksys Wireless-N Dual-Band WMP600N ( PCI )
> [1] Intel Gigabit Ct Desktop Adapter ( PCIEX1 )
> [1] Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD ( PCIEX1 )
> 
> My Config 2 Way SLI Asus ENGTX460 DIRECTCU TOP/2DI/1GD5 Blue Edition
> 
> This is why i really need that PCI-E X1


There are enough slots for all your cards


----------



## PureOC Jim

Mine!(actual photo)
Phenom II 980 Suicide on water 4.78Ghz...... Dice tomorrow!









5.616GHz on a dry ice run boys......... will post screenshots soon


----------



## Johnny2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13864541*
> There are enough slots for all your cards


No there aren't! He's using two cards for SLI
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *q8bohmed;13862224*
> ty for your reply ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i have more Adapter ,
> 
> [1] Linksys Wireless-N Dual-Band WMP600N ( PCI )
> [1] Intel Gigabit Ct Desktop Adapter ( PCIEX1 )
> [1] Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD ( PCIEX1 )
> 
> My Config 2 Way SLI Asus ENGTX460 DIRECTCU TOP/2DI/1GD5 Blue Edition
> 
> This is why i really need that PCI-E X1


You could go for the UD3, but then you would have to sacrifice your PCI WLAN card - or you could go for the UD5 but then have to sacrifise your PCIe LAN card

Edit: Using the UD3 gives you room for another full-length PCIe card and breathingspace for your gfxcards


----------



## Brissmas

Gonna be picking a 990fx-UD5 or the 890fxa-UD5 in the next couple of days so you should see pics later in the week if i get the 990.


----------



## Dromihetes

There is one slot free left at the bottom ,under the video card.No issues there, even if it doent fit in the upper slot..
LE: Nice monster !


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnny2000;13865104*
> No there aren't! He's using two cards for SLI


umm...hello. He needs 4 PCI-e slots and a PCI slot!


----------



## Aussie Alex

If he puts the sound card in the bottom pcix slot then he'll run the risk of blocking the airflow to BOTH graphics cards because the second GPU will already block the first.

I'd be looking into a different motherboard if you care about cooking the cards or you might want to run them in x8 slots but considering that, I'd look for a board that's more 'dual slot gpu friendly'. Running a card constantly hot will halve its lifespan.

The UD7 addresses that gpu proximity issue, there's only a $30 difference here in Australia, not sure about your country though.


----------



## xd_1771

The 990XA-UD3 on NCIX, Newegg, Scan.co.uk takes up the ~$150 price range. This might give you an idea as to the 990FXA-UD3 pricing.


----------



## Johnny2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13866728*
> umm...hello. He needs 4 PCI-e slots and a PCI slot!


It may be something terrible wrong with my eyes, but it looks to me like his two gfxcard are dual-slots. And neither his LAN card nor his soundcard will fit in the top x1 slot on the UD5


----------



## m_jones_

Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 up for pre order in the Uk for Â£130. 
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...odid=MB-350-GI


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *m_jones_*


Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 up for pre order in the Uk for Â£130. 
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...odid=MB-350-GI


Cheap for a UK price, same price in the US would mean only $30 more than the 990XA-UD3.


----------



## frostedflakes

Mwave has the UD5 listed for $190. Not in stock yet, though.

http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=BE90137&pagetitle=Gigabyte%20GA-990FXA-UD5%20-%20AM3+%20AMD%20990FX/SB950%20Chipset%20A


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostedflakes;13873697*
> Mwave has the UD5 listed for $190. Not in stock yet, though.
> 
> http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=BE90137&pagetitle=Gigabyte%20GA-990FXA-UD5%20-%20AM3+%20AMD%20990FX/SB950%20Chipset%20A


This is why no one should be buying the UD7 over at NCIXUS. $286 is too much, I'm thinking $230+shipping


----------



## frostedflakes

Yeah that's what I was thinking as well. And then maybe ~$170 for the 990FXA-UD3. I was hoping the 990FXA-UD3 would be closer to $150, but considering the price of the 990XA-UD3 on NewEgg, that's probably not going to happen. I might just get the UD5 instead if the 990FXA-UD3 isn't much cheaper. Don't really need the 3-way SLI support, but I could use the extra SATA ports.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;13873778*
> This is why no one should be buying the UD7 over at NCIXUS. $286 is too much, I'm thinking $230+shipping


I think it'll be a little more then 230 but definitely not 286. I refuse to pay that much so i'm going to keep waiting it out.


----------



## frostedflakes

Looks like all three are available for preorder now on Amazon as well.

GA-990FXA-UD7 - $271.36
GA-990FXA-UD5 - $203.18
GA-990FXA-UD3 - $174.77

UD7 is expensive.


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostedflakes;13874780*
> Looks like all three are available for preorder now on Amazon as well.
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD7 - $271.36
> GA-990FXA-UD5 - $203.18
> GA-990FXA-UD3 - $174.77
> 
> UD7 is expensive.


Yeesh!


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostedflakes;13874780*
> Looks like all three are available for preorder now on Amazon as well.
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD7 - $271.36
> GA-990FXA-UD5 - $203.18
> GA-990FXA-UD3 - $174.77
> 
> UD7 is expensive.


better then 286.


----------



## Philistine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostedflakes;13874780*
> Looks like all three are available for preorder now on Amazon as well.
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD7 - $271.36
> GA-990FXA-UD5 - $203.18
> GA-990FXA-UD3 - $174.77
> 
> UD7 is expensive.


Linkies are very helpful.

[ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGIGABYTE-990FX-SB950-Motherboard-GA-990FXA-UD3%2Fdp%2FB0055QYKQO%2Fref%3Dsr_1_3%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1308117519%26sr%3D8-3]http://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-990FX-SB950-Motherboard-GA-990FXA-UD3/dp/B0055QYKQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1308117519&sr=8-3"]990FXA-UD3[/ame[/URL]]

[ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGIGABYTE-990FX-SB950-Motherboard-GA-990FXA-UD5%2Fdp%2FB0055QYKQE%2Fref%3Dsr_1_2%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1308117519%26sr%3D8-2]http://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-990FX-SB950-Motherboard-GA-990FXA-UD5/dp/B0055QYKQE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1308117519&sr=8-2"]990FXA-UD5[/ame[/URL]]

[ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGIGABYTE-990FX-SB950-Motherboard-GA-990FXA-UD7%2Fdp%2FB0055QYKRI%2Fref%3Dsr_1_1%3Fie%3DUTF8%26qid%3D1308117519%26sr%3D8-1]http://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-990FX-SB950-Motherboard-GA-990FXA-UD7/dp/B0055QYKRI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1308117519&sr=8-1"]990FXA-UD7[/ame[/URL]]

All show as temporarily out of stock.
Quote:


> Temporarily out of stock.
> Order now and we'll deliver when available. We'll e-mail you with an estimated delivery date as soon as we have more information. Your account will only be charged when we ship the item.


I agree $271 is pricey. If I could get it for ~$250 shipped I'd jump on it. I'll wait to see what it posts for on other sites.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostedflakes;13874780*
> Looks like all three are available for preorder now on Amazon as well.
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD7 - $271.36
> GA-990FXA-UD5 - $203.18
> GA-990FXA-UD3 - $174.77
> 
> UD7 is expensive.


I'm hoping Newegg will drop in and make it close to the $250 range. Just considering the Crosshair V formula is $230.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Philistine;13877439*
> Linkies are very helpful.
> 
> I agree $271 is pricey. If I could get it for ~$250 shipped I'd jump on it. I'll wait to see what it posts for on other sites.


This was my thought exactly!

I was fully prepared to pay $250 for a UD7 just to have the on-board pwr reset and CMOS switches and the post code display but $271 is too much to ask.

Looks like a UD5 for me unless NewEgg can do better.

~fidof650


----------



## Lostintyme

Man, Newegg needs to get the UD7 in stock. I found it for $265, but unless Newegg gets it in stock tomorrow or Friday I'll have to buy it for that.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;13884241*
> Man, Newegg needs to get the UD7 in stock. I found it for $265, but unless Newegg gets it in stock tomorrow or Friday I'll have to buy it for that.


Where?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;13886833*
> Where?


Actually I just got an email from Newegg saying they will have the UD7 page activated this Friday, so you'd be better off with them.

Edit: Next day shipping should be under $26 for anyone in the US, I wonder if they could get it to me Saturday.


----------



## kartcrg84

any idea how much newegg wil have it for?


----------



## tw33k

Still tweaking my new RAM but so far everything's running smoothly.



















CPU-Z


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kartcrg84*


any idea how much newegg wil have it for?


No comments from the Egg on price.


----------



## LBear

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128508&cm_re=990fx-_-13-128-508-_-Product


----------



## fidof650

I got it!!!










The GA-990FXA-UD5 is also now available at NewEgg.com:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128509

P1 has been updated today, enjoy!

~fidof650


----------



## tw33k

I don't think this BIOS is very stable. Rebooting is a nightmare. Sometimes, it hangs at the BIOS splash screen. Other times, pressing delete gives me "AMD AHCI BIOS" screen which lists my hard drives and does nothing so I have to restart. Maybe I should flash to F3

UPDATE: Flashed to F3. So far so good. Rebooted quite a few times now and no problem.


----------



## frostedflakes

Went ahead and snagged a UD5.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Sweet, $260 shipped is sexy.


----------



## Philistine

Newegg

GA-990FXA-UD5 $189.99 + $7.87 s/h

GA-990FXA-UD7 $249.99 + $8.95 s/h








Tomorrow's payday too!


----------



## AK-47

interesting they're now up on newegg


----------



## ikem

ok does the $60 justify a large jump (from ud5 to ud7)if all you are going for is a high cpu oc and single gpu?


----------



## raisethe3

I'd use the $60 for something else if you're not going to populate more than 4 GPUs or something, lol.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ikem*


ok does the $60 justify a large jump (from ud5 to ud7)if all you are going for is a high cpu oc and single gpu?


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13864577*
> Mine!(actual photo)
> Phenom II 980 Suicide on water 4.78Ghz...... Dice tomorrow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5.616GHz on a dry ice run boys......... will post screenshots soon


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem;13902225*
> ok does the $60 justify a large jump (from ud5 to ud7)if all you are going for is a high cpu oc and single gpu?


single gpu, no not at all. like raisethe3 said, unless you're going to use more then that it's not worth it. personally i plan to use 5 gpus so the ud7 is a must.


----------



## madmanmarz

As far as overclocking is concerned, would it be better to pick up lets say the 990x instead of the 990fx ud5 since the 990x uses a traditional 8+2 while the ud5 uses driver mosfets?

My requirements are probably for a single video card and MAYBE two.

I read that driver mosfets can fail when pushed and this is my number one concern, although I'm sure Gigabyte has some high quality ish under that sink.


----------



## kartcrg84

If you look closely, there are screws on the sides of the ud7's heat sinks. Do you think this could mean that the part of the sink with the color highlight is detatchable? If so, that would be pretty cool. I might have to get one, and re anodize the colored part to red or something. The orange is the only thing bad about the board imo


----------



## Philistine

What RAM would be good to pair with the UD7?

It supports DDR3 2000(O.C.)/1866/1600/1333/1066. I currently have 1333 (see sig rig) but if I'm going to buy a new MB I want to get RAM to match it. My plans are to OC my 1090T (current MB is lacking in OC) until I BD comes out. I may not jump on BD right away but I'd like to buy RAM now with the consideration that I will go with BD later.


----------



## Philistine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kartcrg84;13903842*
> If you look closely, there are screws on the sides of the ud7's heat sinks. Do you think this could mean that the part of the sink with the color highlight is detachable?


Looks like it. Go for it! I may go with nickel plating.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz;13903608*
> As far as overclocking is concerned, would it be better to pick up lets say the 990x instead of the 990fx ud5 since the 990x uses a traditional 8+2 while the ud5 uses driver mosfets?
> 
> My requirements are probably for a single video card and MAYBE two.
> 
> I read that driver mosfets can fail when pushed and this is my number one concern, although I'm sure Gigabyte has some high quality ish under that sink.


Better Power Phase = Better Overclocking. As you see by my Extreme overclock, 1.8V with the UD5 which used 8+2 power phase and driver mofsets.


----------



## Lostintyme

I don't know what board I'm getting now. UD7 is $260 shipped on Newegg, while the UD5 is a mere $200. $60 is quite a steep price to pay for the extras the UD7 offers, but I could mod a power button/reset into my tech bench, CMOS switch doesn't matter and hopefully I wont need the post code LED thing as all my parts as of now are confirmed working.

But wait. I'll be using this board until around 2014, when AM3B dies. I might go Tri-fire within 3 years. UD5 doesn't support that. Neither does the high end ASRock, high end BIOSTAR, current available high end MSI OR the current available high end ASUS.

Giving NewEgg a quick call about a price drop on the UD7.


----------



## fitty

Would it be possible to put 6xHD5770s on this board? Assuming single slot, enough power, no crossfire.

The draw for those cards is 108 watts at full load so I'm not worried about power. I'm worried about the system booting up. *lol*

Even if they run at 1x that doesn't really matter. I'm not aware of any limitations on the number of GPUs (non crossfire).

I assume having 6 PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots means you can put 6 cards in, but I'd like to make sure before I ordered it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;13907243*
> I don't know what board I'm getting now. UD7 is $260 shipped on Newegg, while the UD5 is a mere $200. $60 is quite a steep price to pay for the extras the UD7 offers, but I could mod a power button/reset into my tech bench, CMOS switch doesn't matter and hopefully I wont need the post code LED thing as all my parts as of now are confirmed working.


----------



## m_jones_

It would work fine long as they are all single slot cards.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fitty;13908737*
> Would it be possible to put 6xHD5770s on this board? Assuming single slot, enough power, no crossfire.
> 
> The draw for those cards is 108 watts at full load so I'm not worried about power. I'm worried about the system booting up. *lol*
> 
> Even if they run at 1x that doesn't really matter. I'm not aware of any limitations on the number of GPUs (non crossfire).
> 
> I assume having 6 PCI Express 2.0 x16 slots means you can put 6 cards in, but I'd like to make sure before I ordered it.


Yeah, it would boot and work but really what's the point?

By the way everyone I ended up ordering the UD5 and I guess if I ever want tri-crossfire I'll just have one of my cards be dual slot.

Edit: If anyone is insanely rich and feels the need to buy 6 GTX 580s for folding, and water cool them all, the UD7 could take it.


----------



## Lindyrig

Almost got the UD5 today. No dual LAN... so I looked at the UD7... same thing. Its a feature Ive really enjoyed on my AM3+ 890FXA. Cant really justify spending more money to get less... Just a thought I wanted to share.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lindyrig;13909694*
> Almost got the UD5 today. No dual LAN... so I looked at the UD7... same thing. Its a feature Ive really enjoyed on my AM3+ 890FXA. Cant really justify spending more money to get less... Just a thought I wanted to share.


Do you see significant gains using teaming? Pretty sure there is some sort of PCI card that will allow teaming.


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lindyrig;13909694*
> Almost got the UD5 today. No dual LAN... so I looked at the UD7... same thing. Its a feature Ive really enjoyed on my AM3+ 890FXA. Cant really justify spending more money to get less... Just a thought I wanted to share.


The Realtek crappy LAN chips may be limited quantity wise lately ,who knows







.
Maybe the overclocking capabilities will make you get over the issue







.


----------



## tw33k

First bench of my SSD on this board










Can't complain


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13899605*
> I don't think this BIOS is very stable. Rebooting is a nightmare. Sometimes, it hangs at the BIOS splash screen. Other times, pressing delete gives me "AMD AHCI BIOS" screen which lists my hard drives and does nothing so I have to restart. Maybe I should flash to F3
> 
> UPDATE: Flashed to F3. So far so good. Rebooted quite a few times now and no problem.


The problem is still occurring. It seems to happen if I set an overclock that isn't 100% stable. I don't know. It's very frustrating tho


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13912398*
> The problem is still occurring. It seems to happen if I set an overclock that isn't 100% stable. I don't know. It's very frustrating tho


945's aren't the best overclockers.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13912693*
> 945's aren't the best overclockers.


Yeah. I've reached it's limits I think. I either have to leave it as is and wait for BD or I might grab a 965BE to tide me over


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

I dropped the $$$ on the UD5 about an hour ago at the Egg. Based on Gigabytes specs on their site, I really don't see the point in going with the UD7. Epeen, a combo port, and one additional pci-e slot that won't get used. Over a usable pci x1 & pci slots for a sound card & nic? Nah, no thanks.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop;13912859*
> I dropped the $$$ on the UD5 about an hour ago at the Egg. Based on Gigabytes specs on their site, I really don't see the point in going with the UD7. Epeen, a combo port, and one additional pci-e slot that won't get used. Over a usable pci x1 & pci slots for a sound card & nic? Nah, no thanks.


Yeah, the PCIE X1 got me too for the soundcard. Never used an ESATA in my life so that's out. POST LED indicator is useful, but all my parts are tested and confirmed working. RESET, POWER and CMOS switches can be bought or made for $1.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13912706*
> Yeah. I've reached it's limits I think. I either have to leave it as is and wait for BD or I might grab a 965BE to tide me over


Grab a 975 or 980. I got both chips stable at 4.5GHz on water and suicide 5.6GHz on dice with the UD5.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;13916772*
> Yeah, the PCIE X1 got me too for the soundcard. Never used an ESATA in my life so that's out. POST LED indicator is useful, but all my parts are tested and confirmed working. RESET, POWER and CMOS switches can be bought or made for $1.


It's bullcrap they did not put on/off/rest/for cmos switches on this board. The 890FXA-UD5 had them. Only negative i could find. It overclocked 50MHz better than the Crosshair V and almost 100MHz better on dry ice over the CH V. FYI.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim;13917975*
> It's bullcrap they did not put on/off/rest/for cmos switches on this board. The 890FXA-UD5 had them. Only negative i could find. It overckicke 50MHz better than the Crosshair V and almost 100MHz better on dry ice over the CH V. FYI.


Yeah, I guess they were looking for things the UD7 had and the UD5 didn't have and had to sacrifice those buttons in order to make the UD7 worth it. Of course, switches are extremely cheap and 1 more USB port won't do me good(I have 4 on my front panel plus 10 more in back). Never used an E-SATA in my life. PCI-E slots are probably the only pro.


----------



## Benz

I was thinking about buying GA-990FXA-UD3 but I still have Phenom II X3 720 with 4 unlocked and I don't know if this board has a capability to unlock Phenom II CPU cores. So if someone has this board and an X2 or X3 CPU, let me know. Thanks


----------



## xd_1771

If anyone bothered to check Amazon, the [ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2FGIGABYTE-990FX-SB950-Motherboard-GA-990FXA-UD3%2Fdp%2FB0055QYKQO%2F]http://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-990FX-SB950-Motherboard-GA-990FXA-UD3/dp/B0055QYKQO/"]990FXA-UD3[/ame[/URL]] is on sale there (just out of stock)
And at the price point I predicted of around $175


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;13927908*
> I was thinking about buying GA-990FXA-UD3 but I still have Phenom II X3 720 with 4 unlocked and I don't know if this board has a capability to unlock Phenom II CPU cores. So if someone has this board and an X2 or X3 CPU, let me know. Thanks


I contacted Gigabyte about this, turns out right now the board doesn't support unlocking(I think? I just asked them about the "Auto Unlocking" function, there might be an ACC option in BIOS) but they will contact the BIOS team soon for support.


----------



## LBear

My UD7 should be arriving tomorrow. I choose this board over the crosshair V. I hope i made a good choice....The Crosshair have some extra features on the board that i like and this board is 10$ more and doesnt have those features. I am gonna go SLI so the extra x16 slots will be useful.


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear;13932741*
> My UD7 should be arriving tomorrow. I choose this board over the crosshair V. I hope i made a good choice....The Crosshair have some extra features on the board that i like and this board is 10$ more and doesnt have those features. I am gonna go SLI so the extra x16 slots will be useful.


I feel the same way too but instead got the Crosshair V, I was checking out the UD7 and had a hard time trying to decide.


----------



## Lostintyme

Hey guys, my UD5 should be here this Wednesday, and I have 4GBs of 1600MHZ CL9 Ripjaws. What kind of clock should I be getting? Maybe CL8 1866MHZ if I'm lucky?


----------



## Dromihetes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;13936957*
> Hey guys, my UD5 should be here this Wednesday, and I have 4GBs of 1600MHZ CL9 Ripjaws. What kind of clock should I be getting? Maybe CL8 1866MHZ if I'm lucky?


If the RAM is 1600 and it s already made on overclocked chips , i doubt you can get 1866.Keep in mind also that the CPU does not allow you such clocks.
1866 can be done my Bulldozer IMC and not by the IMC of your actual CPU .
Memory controller IMC is on the CPU die not on the mobo.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;13931103*
> I contacted Gigabyte about this, turns out right now the board doesn't support unlocking(I think? I just asked them about the "Auto Unlocking" function, there might be an ACC option in BIOS) but they will contact the BIOS team soon for support.


Thanks for your answer.


----------



## Lostintyme

Ah thanks, I was thinking about buying new 2000MHZ RAM but I guess I'll wait until August. Thanks!


----------



## Benz

Ahh you don't need 2000 MHz Ram, you need Corsair PC3-15000 1866MHz KIT Vengeance. Once you have these babies and a Bulldozer CPU, you can easily overclock your Ram to 2000MHz.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;13941049*
> Ahh you don't need 2000 MHz Ram, you need Corsair PC3-15000 1866MHz KIT Vengeance. Once you have these babies and a Bulldozer CPU, you can easily overclock your Ram to 2000MHz.


Corsair makes terrible RAM heatsinks+9-10-9-27 latency scares me


----------



## Benz

Yeah well there's no 8GB Ram that I know of that has latencies 8-8-8-24.







Maybe you should just stick with your G.Skil 1600 MHz. Just for now anyway.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Yeah well there's no 8GB Ram that I know of that has latencies 8-8-8-24.







Maybe you should just stick with your G.Skil 1600 MHz. Just for now anyway.










Are you serious?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...gb+cl8&x=0&y=0


----------



## Benz

Still not 1866MHz.









Edit: Wait, I've found these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231447
But they have 8-9-8-24 latencies.

When I'm right, I'm right.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Still not 1866MHz.









Edit: Wait, I've found these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231447
But they have 8-9-8-24 latencies.

When I'm right, I'm right.











Quote:



Yeah well there's no 8GB Ram that I know of that has latencies 8-8-8-24.


You never said anything about 1866MHZ.


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*


You never said anything about 1866MHZ.


Oh yes I have.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Ahh you don't need 2000 MHz Ram, you need Corsair PC3-15000 1866MHz KIT Vengeance. Once you have these babies and a Bulldozer CPU, you can easily overclock your Ram to 2000MHz.


----------



## sweffymo

I plan on getting a UD5 to replace my current DFI. I never should have sold my 790X-UD4P...


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;13942259*
> Oh yes I have.


Nevermind, I was talking about your other post.


----------



## Sin0822

sweet i got in like a month ago, i still haven't had a chance to open it. you guys have any known issues or problems yet?


----------



## Lordred

Hello, I just thought I would plop in and say that I just swapped over from a M4N98TD EVO to the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5!

So far it looks like a promising board.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;13947089*
> sweet i got in like a month ago, i still haven't had a chance to open it. you guys have any known issues or problems yet?


I have. Sometimes, when trying to get into the BIOS, hitting delete takes me to a black screen that says "AMD AHCI BIOS" and lists my hard drives. I can't get out of this screen. I have to restart the PC. Also, sometimes, when the PC reboots, it shows "Loading Operating System" and hangs there for a couple seconds. Other times it instantly goes to the Windows Start screen.


----------



## Lordred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13947163*
> I have. Sometimes, when trying to get into the BIOS, hitting delete takes me to a black screen that says "AMD AHCI BIOS" and lists my hard drives. I can't get out of this screen. I have to restart the PC. Also, sometimes, when the PC reboots, it shows "Loading Operating System" and hangs there for a couple seconds. Other times it instantly goes to the Windows Start screen.


Have you flashed to F3 yet?


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred;13947190*
> Have you flashed to F3 yet?


Yep


----------



## Lordred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;13947300*
> Yep


Hurm, well I do have a UD5 while you have the 7.

Getting ready to push for 4.3ghz+ now on air, as this board is not giving me the massive Vrop my Asus gave me on the 1100T


----------



## Sin0822

hey I had this problem on this llano board I am testing now, if you just keep hitting delete from the begining of the power on it takes you to the BIOS screen, and doesn't skip directly to loading windows.

The AHCI thing happens when my SSD is in IDE mode, it asks if you wanna switch to AHCI? like a Y or N thing?

IDk those are what I found to get around it with the Llano board I have. i stil haven't had time to test this UD7. But thanks for the heads up!


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred;13947324*
> Hurm, well I do have a UD5 while you have the 7.
> 
> Getting ready to push for 4.3ghz+ now on air, as this board is not giving me the massive Vrop my Asus gave me on the 1100T


The UD5 did not give me much Vdroop at all. There was no LLC in the bios which surprised me. May be your PSU. What are you using? I got her stable(3 hr. Prime95) at 4.515GHz under water and surely could get 4.3-4.4GHz on air.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;13947344*
> hey I had this problem on this llano board I am testing now, if you just keep hitting delete from the begining of the power on it takes you to the BIOS screen, and doesn't skip directly to loading windows.
> 
> The AHCI thing happens when my SSD is in IDE mode, it asks if you wanna switch to AHCI? like a Y or N thing?
> 
> IDk those are what I found to get around it with the Llano board I have. i stil haven't had time to test this UD7. But thanks for the heads up!


AMD suggested a quality lower watt PSU for LLano BTW. How may watts you using?


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;13947344*
> hey I had this problem on this llano board I am testing now, if you just keep hitting delete from the begining of the power on it takes you to the BIOS screen, and doesn't skip directly to loading windows.
> 
> *The AHCI thing happens when my SSD is in IDE mode, it asks if you wanna switch to AHCI? like a Y or N thing?*
> 
> IDk those are what I found to get around it with the Llano board I have. i stil haven't had time to test this UD7. But thanks for the heads up!


I don't get a Y/N option. It just hangs there and I have to restart and I'm in AHCI mode


----------



## Lordred

Getting more Vdrop then I had with my M4N98TD EVO.

M4N only needed 1.45v in bios to maintain 4ghz with a 2.6v VDD

UD5 needs 1.5v in bios to maintain 4ghz, but has no CPU VDD setting to change.


----------



## PureOC Jim

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lordred*


Getting more Vdrop then I had with my M4N98TD EVO.

M4N only needed 1.45v in bios to maintain 4ghz with a 2.6v VDD

UD5 needs 1.5v in bios to maintain 4ghz, but has no CPU VDD setting to change.











I had minimal vdroop


----------



## Lordred

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PureOC Jim*


I had minimal vdroop


may I enquire to your test setup?

I'm also getting more memory errors with attempts past 1600mhz then I did on the M4N as well.

Aside from needing a little more voltage in bios for the same speeds, the UD5 does everything a little quicker.

3DM11:
M4N98TD EVO All Stock: P7887 http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1069187
GA-990FXA-UD5 All Stock: P8125 http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1408329

Linx:

M4N98TD EVO










990FXA-UD5


----------



## XBATHORYX

Hello all!!!! long time overclocker first time forumner! haha i made a funny! no but seriously im a big fan of this site and also want to be in this community. It was an extremely hard choice as to which board to get....the asus V or the UD7. well.. i chose the UD7! im going to pick it up tomorrow and see how it goes! i hope i made the right choice!!


----------



## iSeries

Hi,

I've set a CPU voltage of 1.275v and 1.65v for the RAM in the BIOS but HW Monitor is reporting 1.31v for the CPU and 1.62v for the RAM. Is my mobo screwing this up or is HW Monitor reporting it wrong? Everything seems to be running a-ok so either way it doesnt seem to be a problem.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iSeries*


Hi,

I've set a CPU voltage of 1.275v and 1.65v for the RAM in the BIOS but HW Monitor is reporting 1.31v for the CPU and 1.62v for the RAM. Is my mobo screwing this up or is HW Monitor reporting it wrong? Everything seems to be running a-ok so either way it doesnt seem to be a problem.


There is a setting that messes with your voltages, I think LLC or something like that. Someone here should know.


----------



## Lordred

Does it seam normal to get this much Vdrop?

Under load: 
1.4v is becoming 1.307
1.45v is becoming 1.38
1.5v is becoming 1.408
1.55v is becoming 1.472

In all cases I am getting nearly a whole tenth of Vdrop this is actually slightly worse then my M4N98TD EVO which was only an 8+1


----------



## iSeries

Where is LLC in the BIOS? I've looked through every option and can't find it anywhere. About the voltage issues I posted above - these voltages are reported in the BIOS so HW Monitor is reporting them just fine - so why isn't the board supplying the voltages I've specified??


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;13941113*
> Corsair makes terrible RAM heatsinks+9-10-9-27 latency scares me


lol on the subject half of one of my vengeance heatsinks just randomly fell off


----------



## xd_1771

For anyone who owns (or plans to own) a Gigabyte GA-990XA-Series motherboard, rather than 990FXA-Series...

[CLICK HERE]


----------



## XBATHORYX

im getting the same vdrop as well, my 890fxaud5 did not get any.. been having a hard time trying to get this thing stable at 4ghz on a 1090t. i would run 1.45v on 1090t and be stable 3 hour prime95. now i need to set it a 1.52v in bios in order to hold stable at 4ghz. whats up with the vdrop?

oh i just got a 990fxa-ud7!!!!! im talking bout this board with the vdrop issues


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

I'm in







I just received my UD-5 yesterday, and have been toying around getting windows set up again. Just about to get down to business w/ oc'ing it after dinner =D










Sorry, no other pics just yet. Build log incoming when BD is released.


----------



## Sin0822

lol maybe i should make a vdroop mod


----------



## Lostintyme

Any vdroop news for the UD5 instead of the UD7?


----------



## Lordred

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


lol maybe i should make a vdroop mod


I would be intrested to see what you come up with.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*

Any vdroop news for the UD5 instead of the UD7?


Load and Idle Voltage on my 990FXA-UD5


----------



## JE Nightmare

so going off pictures it does look like the colors of the heatsink can be switched around.

hmm, all black ud7?


----------



## m_jones_

Got my GA-990FXA ud3 yesterday, yet to overclock it yet.


----------



## mxthunder

I was just about to pull the trigger on this board until I read about the vdroop. I must be plauged with getting motherboards with bad vdroop and weak mosfets.
I want to replace my GD70 for that exact reason. Anyone else have input on this issue?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


I was just about to pull the trigger on this board until I read about the vdroop. I must be plauged with getting motherboards with bad vdroop and weak mosfets. 
I want to replace my GD70 for that exact reason. Anyone else have input on this issue?


I haven't gotten much Vdroop on my UD5, I think it's mostly on the UD7.


----------



## PureOC Jim

I not only watercool my overclock but used dice on the UD5. Minimal VDroo on the board. May be individuals psu's. I used a Nexus 1100W.


----------



## fidof650

Can't get close to 4.0GHz on stock air with acceptable temps.
My attempts required very high voltages.

3.997 Never Prime stable. No Blue screen just produced errors in one core every time (not always the same core). Couldn't raise voltages any higher due to temps with stock HSF.
Multi: 19.5
Ref: 205
vcore: 1.55 (in BIOS)
NB VID: 1.3
Memory set to 1333 and loose timings

3.9GHz was 3hrs Prime stable but temps were in the mid to high 60's.
Multi: 19.5
Ref: 200
vcore: 1.525 (in BIOS)
NB VID: 1.25
Memory set to 1600 and loose timings

3.8GHz was fine but really, why bother when 3.7GHz is the turbo stock setting.
Multi: 19
Ref: 200
vcore: 1.5 (in BIOS)
NB VID: 1.2
Memory set to 1333 and loose timings

Current 24/7 settings:
3.4GHz was fine but really, why bother when 3.7GHz is the turbo stock setting.
Multi: 17
Ref: 200
vcore: Auto
NB VID: Auto
Memory set to 1600 and 9-9-9-24 timings
Turbo Enabled

Set Up:
GA-990FXA-UD7

Phenom II x6 1100T

Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) Desktop Memory Model 996991

Otherwise same as sig.

I'll tinker more once I get a better CPU cooler. Besides, the 1100T is just to tide me over until the bulldozer shows up and we can get this party started!

Anyone have any better luck with different settings? I tried different settings but these got the best results so far.

~fidof650


----------



## Krahe

New beta Bios F4B is available @ Gigabytes site, hopefully my UD7 will arrive this week


----------



## m_jones_

I'm getting around 0.003 v drop on my ud3 using a unlock x2 550.


----------



## Benz

So it is possible to unlock cores with UD3.







Next month, she's definitely mine.


----------



## m_jones_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;13999674*
> So it is possible to unlock cores with UD3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next month, she's definitely mine.


It requires a bit of tweaking to get it all stable.


----------



## Lostintyme

Yes, this board can unlock a CPU.


----------



## iSeries

I'm seeing the same thing as some others - idle CPU voltage 1.3v. At 100% load this drops to 1.25v. Is this likely or even possible to be fixed by a future BIOS update? Starting to wish I'd got the Sabertooth....


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *m_jones_*


It requires a bit of tweaking to get it all stable.


So if I bump my core voltage to 1.350v it should be stable?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iSeries*


I'm seeing the same thing as some others - idle CPU voltage 1.3v. At 100% load this drops to 1.25v. Is this likely or even possible to be fixed by a future BIOS update? Starting to wish I'd got the Sabertooth....


My Ram should be @ 1.8v, but instead of it it's @ 1.87v on my GA-MA790GP-DS4H board. When I update the BIOS to F6 the voltage goes to normal but I can't unlock my 4th core. The reason I'm telling you this, is to tell you that the issue you have on your GA-990FXA-UD5, is fixable with BIOS update. I'm 100% sure. I have the same issue but my Ram is overvolted instead of undervolted. Trust me it'll be fixed.


----------



## Fediuld

My trusty Q6600 died on Thursday (after working without issues for more than 3 1/2 years @3.6). So I decided to upgrade motherboard, cpu ram.

Doing some some search (and seeing some offer) got an AMD 1090T and the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3. (bit more than £100 offer was new).

Could someone post here their BIOS settings to push the cpu to 4Ghz as has been done by many? I use a H50 so with dual fan config, so cooling isn't an issue









Ahh and an advice about H50 and this motherboard.
Because I had the H50 on the P5Q Deluxe, and counldn't remove the sticky pads from the backplate. So I used the backplate from the Gigabyte, the bracket for the AM3 and the shorter L shape 'feet' (from the LGA configuration not the AM2/3) and worked perfectly. If you use the GA backplate and the AM2/3 'feet' it will be 4mm higher the bracket and the cooler will be completely loose.


----------



## Benz

It's not that hard tho, the 1090T is a Black Edition so it's a matter of multiplier and vCore. Just set your multiplier to x20 and your vCore to 1.360 or higher (depends on CPU) and you're done.









P.S. If it's not stable, try higher vCore voltage.


----------



## iSeries

@ Benz - I hope you're right









About RAM, mine is set to 1.65v but it's actually only getting 1.62v. I hope all these things get ironed out before Bulldozer finally gets released!


----------



## Sin0822

lol you guys should come to intel where vdrop and vdroop aren't just common they are required.


----------



## BramSLI1

I'm using the UD7 and I find that I'm actually getting a slight increase in voltages over the BIOS settings. For example my CPU VCORE is set at 1.35 and I'm actually noticing that I'm getting 1.39 according to CPUID hardware monitor. And can anyone tell me if my +12v coming in at 12.42 looks OK. To me that seems a bit high.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


I'm using the UD7 and I find that I'm actually getting a slight increase in voltages over the BIOS settings. For example my CPU VCORE is set at 1.35 and I'm actually noticing that I'm getting 1.39 according to CPUID hardware monitor. And can anyone tell me if my +12v coming in at 12.42 looks OK. To me that seems a bit high.


I noticed this as well. For example when I had vcore set to 1.55v during one run HWMonitor reported 1.58v as the high v.

Remember to post your CPU-Z validation and specifications in the spreadsheet on the Original Post.

>>>Click Here for an easy input form<<<

~fidof650


----------



## Lordred

I think some people are not looking at their Vcore when you load up the CPU.

I am getting a drop of 2-3/100th's (0.02-3) at idle from my bios voltage when I have C&Q as well as C1E disabled, but then I wind up with 10/100th's (0.10v) drop under load, this is simply far far too much drop. I only need 1.363v for 4ghz, but I need to apply 1.465v in bios to acheive 1.363v+

Still waiting to hear back from gigabyte's tech support. Been 5 days.


----------



## BramSLI1

Lordred, I looked at my voltages while running prime95 and I did see my VCORE drop to 1.33 from the 1.35 that's set in BIOS. This is at stock 3.2 GHz on a 955 x4. From my understanding a drop of .02 is actually not that bad. I'll have to do some overclocking now and let you know what I find.


----------



## BramSLI1

I just ran Prime95 again with my 955 set at 3.8 GHz and the the voltage was set at 1.45. The drop that I got from HWMonitor was 1.41. So that equals a drop of .04 on the VCore.


----------



## Lordred

Remember, an 1100T is a 6 core, I have two extra cores to power. It just seams to me that this much drop is just no acceptable. I posted images showing the Vdrop a few pages back.


----------



## mxthunder

Thanks for all the input on this matter. I will be watching this thread closely..


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSeries;14001404*
> @ Benz - I hope you're right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About RAM, mine is set to 1.65v but it's actually only getting 1.62v. I hope all these things get ironed out before Bulldozer finally gets released!


I know I'm right, do it up and if it doesn't boot crank up the voltage a little bit.


----------



## Evil Penguin

So...
Do these boards have the problem where the MOSFET area would turn brown-ish?









I realize most of the boards are black, but still.
I know I won't be buying MSI for a while.


----------



## fidof650

Congratulations guys, we are now [Official]!!!
Good Job!
The club tag code has been updated on P1.

In other News:
Has anyone flashed the F4B BIOS yet? If so, let us know what you think.

I just flashed it with no issue using Q-Flash.
This always worked well on my GA-890FXA-UD5 so, I stuck with what works.

I'll tinker around with it a bit tonight and post anything of interest (nothing interesting = no post).

~fidof650


----------



## tw33k

No need for F4B here. My USB keyboard works fine


----------



## IzninjaFTW

I'm seriously wanting to get the UD5 but people are reporting "vdroop" and worries me a little bit. Are the VRMs on the board nice and tough? My cpu takes 1.46v to stay stable at 3.0Ghz XD

Also for sli do we have to use the newer nvidia drivers? If so that sucks for some folders...

ALSO! Anyone running with 2 or 3+ gpus? How is the spacing for the gpus?

Thanks









EDIT: Also will I be able to populate every PCI-E slot no problem?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IzninjaFTW;14006873*
> I'm seriously wanting to get the UD5 but people are reporting "vdroop" and worries me a little bit. Are the VRMs on the board nice and tough? My cpu takes 1.46v to stay stable at 3.0Ghz XD
> 
> Also for sli do we have to use the newer nvidia drivers? If so that sucks for some folders...
> 
> ALSO! Anyone running with 2 or 3+ gpus? How is the spacing for the gpus?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Also will I be able to populate every PCI-E slot no problem?


It depends on your power supply, you should be fine. SLI yes new drivers=needed. Spacing for GPUs, depends on cooler length. 2 GPUs should have enough space between for a 120MM fan. Yes, you can populate every PCIE on this board no prob.


----------



## xd_1771

Amazon has the [ame="[URL=http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.html?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&tag=overclockdotnet-20&location=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.com%2Fgp%2Fproduct%2FB0055QYKQO]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0055QYKQO"]GA-990FXA-UD3[/ame[/URL]] in stock and the price is excelleennttt
Newegg also has it in stock, but the shipping is not free


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;14005292*
> So...
> Do these boards have the problem where the MOSFET area would turn brown-ish?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I realize most of the boards are black, but still.
> I know I won't be buying MSI for a while.


Geez that shouldn't be happening, is this GA-990FXA-D3? Im asking cause it's blue and not black.


----------



## xd_1771

The board posted above is the 790FXTA-UD5 I believe. He wants to know if users of these boards have the same problems. I have no idea what is happening there, MOSFET overheat or what.


----------



## andos

That UD3 is appealing..


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xd_1771;14009188*
> The board posted above is the 790FXTA-UD5 I believe. He wants to know if users of these boards have the same problems. I have no idea what is happening there, *MOSFET overheat or what*.


Yeah, it looks that way. I'll look into it and report back here.

Edit: Apparently he's the only one having this issue. A couple of my friends have this board and they all said it's probably a faulty board. If he still has a warranty, he should RMA it.


----------



## Evil Penguin

It was me that provided that picture in another thread.
The motherboard had plenty of airflow at the time.
It's not the only motherboard with discoloration.
I have an MA790GP-DS4H that has a small brown spot opposite to the MOSFET area.

I do stress the processors quite a bit (24/7 folding).


----------



## Benz

I have an MA790GP-DS4H too, believe me it has been through some pretty stressful situations, but I didn't OC'ed it much 3.8GHz tops. Ran Crysis benchmark 24/7 set to 1 week, so I don't have any problems with it. How much did you OC'ed that poor thing?


----------



## Evil Penguin

Right now it's running an X4 9950 @ 3GHz 1.42v under load.
24/7 folding.

Can you check if you have a brown spot on the back side of the motherboard, Benz?
It should be where the MOSFETs are on the opposite side.
I'm assuming your case has an easy access port to the backside.


----------



## Benz

Yeah sure I'll get right on it. I'll get back at you in 20 min.

Nope I have no brown spots or whatsoever, my board is looking good.

Picture:


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;14006290*
> No need for F4B here. My USB keyboard works fine


I had an issue using a USB keyboard through a KVM switch. No issue since the update








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred;14003431*
> Still waiting to hear back from gigabyte's tech support. Been 5 days.


-Gigabyte USA (CA): 626-854-9338

They have always been great with me









~fidof650


----------



## Tyreal

looks as if this board would fit 4x double slot gpu's.
in what configuration will this board do 4xCrossfire?

please tell me 8x8x8x8x


----------



## BramSLI1

Tyreal, if you're talking about the UD7 it will do quad Crossfire and quad SLI in 8x8x8x8x.


----------



## Tyreal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;14019074*
> Tyreal, if you're talking about the UD7 it will do quad Crossfire and quad SLI in 8x8x8x8x.











time for 3 more 6950's haha


----------



## Lordred

I'll be returning the UD5, I pulled it out and stuck the EVO back in to test the voltage required for the exact same job. The EVO has more drop, but remains stable at lower voltage. If I dip below 1.36v under load @ 4ghz on the UD5, it throws errors, however the EVO drops to 1.34v and just keeps on ticking.

So here is a direct comparision of the two.

UD5 @ 4ghz Idle 1.475v in bios 3/1000ths Drop









EVO @ 4ghz Idle 1.475v in bios 31/1000ths Drop









UD5 @ 4ghz Load 1.475v in bios 83/1000ths drop









EVO @ 4ghz Load 1.475v in bios 131/1000ths drop


----------



## V-FrIeNd

Gigabyte 990FXA-D3
Bios : F1

CPU : Phenom II X6 1100T / E0
Freq : 4.02 GHz
Ref / Multi : 201 / 20
CPU Vcore : 1.50v
CPU NB VID : 1.375v
NB Freq : 3020 MHz
NB Voltage : 1.25v
Ram : Elixir 8GB/1333 9-9-9-1T
Cooling : ThermalTake Frio


----------



## mxthunder

^^ That Vdroop doesnt seem so bad..


----------



## V-FrIeNd

1 hrs. tested.


----------



## xd_1771

Users of the 990FXA-D3 with an OC Phenom II x4 or x6 and tower cooling should really be reminded that the VRMs do need to be cooled. Without any additional cooling (i.e. heatsink or fan), they otherwise aren't being cooled - not even with a smidge of airflow - and are probably overheating to unsafe levels.


----------



## VaNiaL

Anyone else having problems shutting down and restarting? For me the "windows is shutting down" screen never go away. I have to either hold the power button to shut it off or press the reset button to restart.
I have the UD3 version with the latest bios and all latest drivers installed. Running Win 7 SP1 enterprise x64.

Edit: Was my usb smart card reader that was causing the problem. Now everything works perfect again


----------



## steamboat

just bought the ud7


----------



## Lostintyme

Check out my review of the UD5!

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHVrQPcrk9E[/ame]


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steamboat;14026945*
> just bought the ud7


let us know how it does overclocking and with the vdroop. Im getting anxious.


----------



## heshere2001

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*


Check out my review of the UD5!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHVrQPcrk9E


Anyone else thought what I thought with that image?

Maybe I'm just perverse :-/

yay!

Oh, nice review by the way! Still can't decide on the UD7 or UD5.

Does the 7 have any sort of extra cooling over the 5 or is the extra money for a longer board with start and reset buttons?


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steamboat*


just bought the ud7

http://i.imgur.com/Ce67i.jpg[ /IMG]

[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
why 4x5770's? [IMG alt=""]https://www.overclock.net/images/smilies/headscratch.gif


----------



## Lordred

I would like to add, I tried locking off three cores on my 1100T, with only 3 cores active under full load I now only have 8/100ths Vdrop (0.008) So it sounds like the boards arnt all that good at copeing with the Hexa

Re-ran the 1100T as a Quad.

For consistency AMD Turbo Core, Cool & Quiet, and C1E are disabled.

Bios @ 1.475v Windows Idle 1.504 (29/100ths V Rise)









Bios @ 1.475v Windows Load 1.424 (51/100ths V Drop)


----------



## LBear

Quote:



Lordred;14030183 I would like to add, I tried locking off three cores on my 1100T, with only 3 cores active under full load I now only have 8/100ths Vdrop (0.008) So it sounds like the boards arnt all that good at copeing with the Hexa

Re-ran the 1100T as a Quad.

For consistency AMD Turbo Core, Cool & Quiet, and C1E are disabled.

Bios @ 1.475v Windows Idle 1.504 (29/100ths V Rise)

Bios @ 1.475v Windows Load 1.424 (51/100ths V Drop)



Is your system stable when the vdrop occurs? It seems to me they have things reversed. The idle voltage is higher than the load voltage is not right. The v rise should happen during load not drop. Is anyone experiencing the same thing with the UD7? Hopefully this is a bios issue and gigabyte wont take too long to fix the problem.


----------



## Lordred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear;14030539*
> Is your system stable when the vdrop occurs? It seems to me they have things reversed. The idle voltage is higher than the load voltage is not right. The v rise should happen during load not drop. Is anyone experiencing the same thing with the UD7? Hopefully this is a bios issue and gigabyte wont take too long to fix the problem.


Maintaining stability so long as I'm above 1.36v @ 4ghz on this board.


----------



## blue_decamax

Hello there. I'm thinking of buying the 990fxa-d3 model, but can it overclock well since it doesn't have heatsinks on the mosfet and only 4+1 power design? if i buy heatsink and stick on it will it works? or I better of buying 990fxa-ud5 since only these 2 models available in my country...


----------



## steamboat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare*


why 4x5770's?










the rest of the invoice is for another project i'm working on, just happened to buy it at the same time. the board is going on my sig rig, with (hopefully) BD following closely after.


----------



## iSeries

Getting quite concerned that the vdroop issue is a hardware problem and won't be fixed by a BIOS update. Should I return it before its too late? Others who are experiencing the same problem, what are you going to do?


----------



## Lordred

I'm going to play with it for another 13 days. I will evaluate what I will do after that.

It has Vdroop, its not as bad as my previous board, but it has it.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iSeries*


Getting quite concerned that the vdroop issue is a hardware problem and won't be fixed by a BIOS update. Should I return it before its too late? Others who are experiencing the same problem, what are you going to do?


Sadly, I'm planning on returning it. With the 8-cores coming up, I can't be the one who won't get 5GHZ or whatever. ASUS Crosshair V Formula it is for me.


----------



## Lordred

Moving on

I've recived the F5b bios for testing, Vdroop improved, and with hopes will improve more.

For consistency AMD Turbo Core, Cool & Quiet, and C1E are disabled.

*STOCK (no OC, no tweeks, no nothing, just power saving features off)*


























Windows Idle 1.312v (37/100ths Rise)










Windows Load 1.232v (43/100ths Drop










*OVERCLOCK CPU 4000mhz, HT 2500mhz, NB 2750, DRAM 1666 8-8-8-24-34-1T*


























Windows Idle 1.488v (13/100ths Rise)










Windows Load 1.392 (83/100ths Drop) Which is a step in the right direction from 100/100ths drop


----------



## mxthunder

So that is a beta bios? Lets hope the real thing improves it some more


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14035808*
> So that is a beta bios? Lets hope the real thing improves it some more


For sure, I'm thinking about grabbing the ASRock or the ASUS but the red color scheme doesn't hit me and I'd really like to keep this board. Maybe I should grab the ASUS now and then if this problem evens out over the course of August then I'll buy a UD7+Bulldozer.


----------



## Lordred

your money, your choice. I am leaning towards keeping the UD5 myself.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred;14036430*
> your money, your choice. I am leaning towards keeping the UD5 myself.


I still have a good 19 days for my decision. I really want to keep the UD5, but come on, almost .1V of droop is pretty bad.


----------



## Lordred

Yes, but are the others performing as through as a test as I am on the Asus 990FX's?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred;14036657*
> Yes, but are the others performing as through as a test as I am on the Asus 990FX's?


Good point, I'll go ask the members of the ASUS CHVF club to do some vDroop tests with an 1100t at your voltage specified.


----------



## steamboat

has anyone tried plugging in the aux pci sata pwr on the ud7 to see if that'd help?

also, i should have mine in on thurs/fri to do some testing, though i only have this b55 atm


----------



## Sin0822

whats the big deal about vdroop? why not just set a higher voltage and account for the droop? its actually healthier for your CPU.

either way when i look at my board ill test it out, but ill test it with a real hardware reading, not software.

BTW 1 thing to consider these boards are tuned for BD not really thubans.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14039534*
> BTW 1 thing to consider these boards are tuned for BD not really thubans.


Good point!

BTW: My GA-990FXA-UD7 has been running like a champ 24/7 since it came out of the box without any issues...

...just sayin









~fidof650


----------



## LBear

Ive had the UD7 for an week and still dont have time to install it. Hopfully ill have time this sat and ill do some testing.


----------



## Lordred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14039534*
> whats the big deal about vdroop? why not just set a higher voltage and account for the droop? its actually healthier for your CPU.
> 
> either way when i look at my board ill test it out, but ill test it with a real hardware reading, not software.
> 
> BTW 1 thing to consider these boards are tuned for BD not really thubans.


Vdroop can ruin an OC, setting the Vcore up higher to compensate causes them to work harder (hotter).

I call garbaldygook on the not tuned for Thubans, as the Octa FX's will have a 135watt TDP (thats 10 watts higher then the Thuban) at stock


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


Good point!

BTW: My GA-990FXA-UD7 has been running like a champ 24/7 since it came out of the box without any issues...

...just sayin









~fidof650


No vdroop?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


No vdroop?


Dude, sorry to tell you, but EVERYONE has vBoost and vDroop on this board. X3 720 at stock with all power saving features disabled and 1.5V, I get 1.54V idle and 1.47V load. This is at stock frequency.

It's the MOSFETs. Not something that can be fixed.

In other news, I wonder when SAPPHIRE is releasing their take on the 990FX chipset? Black/blue color scheme hits me well.


----------



## steamboat

this vdroop business is very dissapointing. if i have the same problems (which i suspect i will) i'm going to have to find another quadfire capable 990 board


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steamboat*


this vdroop business is very dissapointing. if i have the same problems (which i suspect i will) i'm going to have to find another quadfire capable 990 board


Is there another 990 board that will do quadfire?


----------



## steamboat

not atm. gotta either wait for someone to release one or buy a 890


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steamboat*


not atm. gotta either wait for someone to release one or buy a 890


I know the CHV has that extender but I highly doubt you'd want to do that. Besides I don't even know how someone would fit a CHV with an extender attached to it in a case.


----------



## steamboat

extender? link?


----------



## Revained Mortal

I've been eyeing the UD5 for a while now, but I'm curious as to whether or not the NB heat sink completely blocks the x1 PCI-e slot or if it just appears to be blocking.


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:



Originally Posted by *steamboat*


extender? link?


I've tried to look around for info on the Xpander but found basically nothing. Only what people have said about it here on OCN. According to those posts it was made in limited quantity and only for SLI. Don't quote me on that though. Sorry I don't have anything more tangible.


----------



## mxthunder

Guys... the msi 990FXA-GD80 will do quadfire, just not quad SLI.............


----------



## a11an

Thank god I found this topic. Almost ordered the UD5. Don't wanna mess with vdroop again.


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*


Dude, sorry to tell you, but EVERYONE has vBoost and vDroop on this board. X3 720 at stock with all power saving features disabled and 1.5V, I get 1.54V idle and 1.47V load. This is at stock frequency.

*It's the MOSFETs. Not something that can be fixed.*

In other news, I wonder when SAPPHIRE is releasing their take on the 990FX chipset? Black/blue color scheme hits me well.



Where the hell did you hear that? Gigabyte says it's because of the BIOS and I'm inclined to agree with them,


----------



## Problame

Want to pick up a GA-990FXA-UD3 because of the looks over the other UD's.
Think it has the same Vdroop issues as the UD5 and UD7?


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Where the hell did you hear that? Gigabyte says it's because of the BIOS and I'm inclined to agree with them,


is there discussion of this somewhere on their support forums or something? Im looking for more info on this topic


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Where the hell did you hear that? Gigabyte says it's because of the BIOS and I'm inclined to agree with them,


I thought it was the VRM's/FETs that made the problem. And F5B BIOS, which is unreleased, still gives you .83v of droop on a loaded CPU with 1.475.


----------



## m_jones_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Problame;14045728*
> Want to pick up a GA-990FXA-UD3 because of the looks over the other UD's.
> Think it has the same Vdroop issues as the UD5 and UD7?


When i set my 550 x2 to 1.2v i dont get a single bit of v droop even with cool & quiet it(running prime 95)

I had it unlocked running around 1.45 ish i only had 0.003v drop.


----------



## crossy82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14045339*
> Where the hell did you hear that? Gigabyte says it's because of the BIOS and I'm inclined to agree with them,


Obviously they will say that.Lol,theres no end of problems with these boards,the net is full of the same stories,and people who are in the know and have tested significantly say its the hardware.

TO ANYONE WANTING THE GIGABYTE,DONT DO IT,WAIT FOR A FIX TO BE SURE.

I not bashing them as a company,i own a Gigabyte and it has done me fine,but seriously,no point in investing your hard earned money into something potentially defective.


----------



## mxthunder

Where else have you read info on these boards? I have been scouring the net for more information on this


----------



## steamboat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14044180*
> Guys... the msi 990FXA-GD80 will do quadfire, just not quad SLI.............


they didn't double space their pcie slots so you can only do it w/ a WC loop.


----------



## crossy82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14047517*
> Where else have you read info on these boards? I have been scouring the net for more information on this


Overclockers UK,various product reviews by the consumer,and the Gigabyte forums.Its out there on other sites but yeah,its takes some searching.Lots of post have been in forum threads which are'nt Gigabyte specific aswell,mainly due i should imagine because Average Joe who does'nt really check these things and does'nt realise that its a real problem.Its really bugging me,i wanted the UD5.It does'nt help matters that there is no LLC on these boards,even the UD7.

On a different note,i wonder why the UD3 has the best all pure black scheme,that seems to be the sweetest looking one of all.


----------



## steamboat

sigh. my UD7 is still at least a day away but i can't stop myself from constantly updating the tracking page


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crossy82*


Obviously they will say that.Lol,theres no end of problems with these boards,the net is full of the same stories,and people who are in the know and have tested significantly say its the hardware.

TO ANYONE WANTING THE GIGABYTE,DONT DO IT,WAIT FOR A FIX TO BE SURE.

I not bashing them as a company,i own a Gigabyte and it has done me fine,but seriously,no point in investing your hard earned money into something potentially defective.


I asked them by e-mail, but if they're lying, they're only lying to themselves in a long run. Gigabyte has never lied to me when I asked them something. The things I've asked always came out to be true, so I don't know...


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lordred*


Vdroop can ruin an OC, setting the Vcore up higher to compensate causes them to work harder (hotter).

I call garbaldygook on the not tuned for Thubans, as the Octa FX's will have a 135watt TDP (thats 10 watts higher then the Thuban) at stock


not true at all, vdroop results in lower total wattage pulled, its healthier for your CPU.

Sow hat is so wrong with teh board i am not gettingit?

BTW some of you guys need education in voltage regulation, the MOSFETs have nothing to do with it, the PWM does and the tweaking for the PWM does. The PWm controls the output voltage no matter the condition of the MOSFETs.

You guys really need to see Intel, Vdroop is part of the spec, and almost 100mv in many cases(thats .1v) and that is becuase those CPus are really power hungry and need to be in good condition so the vdroop maintains this fact.

Here is why vdroop is there:
So wattage = power and power= current x voltage.
At idle you are pushing VERy little current rhough the CPU, so teh voltage can be higher, its really doesn't matter. But when you go under load, the current is increase in huge steps, in Intel platforms its 100A step. Do the math, voltage is dropped for an increase in current so that the CPu stays within TDP.

Ever think that is part of BD's spec? vdroop? its very common among high wattage CPUs. This board is tuned for BD not Thubans like i said before.

Now on Intel side we have somthing called LLC, load line calibration and its not very healthy for teh CPU and it does exactly what you guys are asking for, no vdroop.

BTw vdrop is part of every single voltage regulator on your board, its the difference from what you set to what you get. Vdroop is difference between idle and load.

If what i read is correct you guys are saying you set 1.5v and you get 1.54v idle and 1.47 load, then that is not natural, it should be more like 1.49v, if its raising that means GB has implemented some type of LLC for this platform, whether they care to tweak it or not for now, or whether they need to is not a question I can answer for you. What i can say that you should ONLY look at your load voltage, idle voltage means as much as idle temps, as in it doesn't mean scrap.

Remember font be scared of voltage be scared of current, becuase no matter how much you change voltage, current wont change.

FYI i do help GB better their products by doing a power user review. I haven't had time to touch this board becuase of llano launch but ill investigate it.

One thing to remember, b/c its not in the BIOS doesn;'t mean its not there.

Intel P67 boards released with 3 levels of LLC, now they have 10 through a BIOS update, and I have a BIOS with 33 possible LLC levels, of course consumer will never see 33 levels.


----------



## iSeries

@ Sin0822 - if its part of the BD spec I'd have thought that 990fx boards by other manufacturers would have the same thing. I don't see any vdroop comments in the Sabertooth 990fx or Crosshair 990fx threads though.


----------



## Sin0822

what different manufacturers do its totally up to them, some follow spec some dont, just like some on the Intel side dont have VRD12 certification. They could have tuned it for thuban better than GB bothered too. The truth is we wont see how good these boards really are until BD is released.

Either way guys, GB has the capability, becuase with the A75-UD4H i have i set 1.525v and it gives me 1.520v idle and 1.520v load.


----------



## mxthunder

http://www.masterslair.com/364/vdroo...op-really-bad/

thought it was interesting.


----------



## LBear

Well that would make sense to vdroop during load as long as the vdroop doesn't make the system unstable or damage the cpu for not getting its proper volts during an high OC. Lordred had a stable 4.0 OC even with the vdroop. Another thing i noticed is that there are reviews up on the net on the UD5 and UD7 and they dont mention the vdroop at all when OCing.


----------



## iSeries

With my UD5 I have 1.275v set in the BIOS. Idle its giving 1.31v, and under load its giving 1.25v. Also I have set 1.65v for RAM and its only giving 1.62v. There is definitely something wrong. I have almost made up my mind to return it (I still have a couple of weeks to see if Gigabyte can fix this). If not - Sabertooth here I come!


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iSeries*


With my UD5 I have 1.275v set in the BIOS. Idle its giving 1.31v, and under load its giving 1.25v. Also I have set 1.65v for RAM and its only giving 1.62v. There is definitely something wrong. I have almost made up my mind to return it (I still have a couple of weeks to see if Gigabyte can fix this). If not - Sabertooth here I come!


I just did a test on my X3, 1.45v. Getting 1.49V idle. This isn't any design, is it? This is just something wrong is what I'm thinking.

I'm thinking about keeping the board and maybe selling it when BD comes out depending on what's up if vDroop is intended or not.

Anyway, is it normal I can't get 3.5GHZ on a 2.8GHZ CPU at 1.5v on this board?


----------



## iSeries

There's been a lot of noise about the Gigabyte 990fx vdroop issue recently and I'm sure many many users have got in contact with Gigabyte (I have - no reply yet!). I'm sure if this is how the boards were designed to behave Gigabyte would have come out and said so. Instead they are giving out beta bios's for us to test.


----------



## LBear

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*


I just did a test on my X3, 1.45v. Getting 1.49V idle. This isn't any design, is it? This is just something wrong is what I'm thinking.

I'm thinking about keeping the board and maybe selling it when BD comes out depending on what's up if vDroop is intended or not.

Anyway, is it normal I can't get 3.5GHZ on a 2.8GHZ CPU at 1.5v on this board?


That might just be your CPU limit. Have u hit 3.5GHZ using a different board? I had a 720 and i couldnt get it stable at 3.5ghz even at 1.55v.


----------



## Sin0822

have you never used a beta BIOs before?

IDk set 1.475v and get 1.45v load isn't bad in my book. Remember idle voltage means nothing.

The only reason that LLC isn't as dangerous as it was for pre-P55 systems is becuase the quality of the VRMs has greatly increased.


----------



## iSeries

It does not make sense to me to have to set a higher voltage in the BIOS to achieve the voltage I want.


----------



## Sin0822

thats how we do it on Intel, and that is really how things are supposed to work.

They don't use linear regulators to power the CPu, they use a switching mode power supply with constant error correction.

your PSu isn't exactly 12v on the 12v rail, nor 5v on the 5v rail, nor 3.3v on the 3.3v rail. Voltage is supposed to drop under load. But on AMD now it seems you guys expect constant voltages, its crazy, when a guy comes into the Intel section and posts why isn;t my voltage exactly 1.525 i set 1.525, people laugh.


----------



## iSeries

Like I said though, with the amount of people that must have contacted Gigabyte about this, they surely would have come out and said this is how they designed it. They've released two beta's in the last few days which has given minimal improvements. Ok if voltage is supposed to drop under load, the CPU still has a minimum voltage requirement to operate under full load. So I have to set a much higher voltage to ensure that when under load the CPU receives sufficient voltage to operate with stability. And when idle, the CPU is getting even more voltage than the already higher voltage I've set in the BIOS to account for the vdroop! Sorry, still doesn't make any sense to me


----------



## IOSEFINI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


thats how we do it on Intel, and that is really how things are supposed to work.

They don't use linear regulators to power the CPu, they use a switching mode power supply with constant error correction.

your PSu isn't exactly 12v on the 12v rail, nor 5v on the 5v rail, nor 3.3v on the 3.3v rail. Voltage is supposed to drop under load. But on AMD now it seems you guys expect constant voltages, its crazy, when a guy comes into the Intel section and posts why isn;t my voltage exactly 1.525 i set 1.525, people laugh.



I dont expect to see 1.525V if i set it @ 1.525V in BIOS, but I dont like to see 0.100V Vdrop under load.


----------



## Sin0822

um for what i gather you set 1.500 and you get what 1.54v idle and 1.475 load? thats a 25mv drop under load from what you set, not idle but what you set, and to be honest idle doesn't matter your not going to kill your CPU becuase idle voltage is 40mv higher than what is set. Imagine the transient spikes under load.

Has anyone measured with a DMM?

This problem intrigues me enough that Ill pull out my UD7 tomorrow with this 1100T i have and test it out with hardware and software. if it really is doing what you say it is ill make a note of it and show you guys.

Its ok though guys, just set a higher voltage for now, see it just doesn't make sense to me that they would introduce a problem that hadn't existed on their previous boards they aren't going to introduce one now unless its part of the design.

BTW who contacted who at GB?

i sent this thread over to my friend that works there anyways.


----------



## iSeries

Sin0822, see http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.p...ic,5939.0.html


----------



## Sin0822

thank you well then yea he should have told the people who should be told about this issue.


----------



## mxthunder

there seems to be so many conflicting ideas on this around here.
from page 13 on...

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...n-list-13.html

I dont know what to think now


----------



## LBear

Looking forward to your results Sin0822, hope we can get to the bottom of this. Ive never heard of a vdroop before. Thats why i like coming here i learn new things.


----------



## Lordred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14052550*
> um for what i gather you set 1.500 and you get what 1.54v idle and 1.475 load? thats a 25mv drop under load from what you set,,,,,,,,,


Sin, I went into this in great detail a few pages back, and on several forums. My Idle Voltage is comming up correctly with all power saving and power state changing settings off, I'm not asking for perfection, I just think that a whole 0.1 drop is a little high. With the F5b it is down to a 0.083 drop when OC'ed and a 0.043 drop at default settings. Which is a vast improvement from the 0.08 drop at stock

http://www.overclock.net/14034975-post309.html


----------



## Evil Penguin

Do these boards have thermal throttling for the VRMs?


----------



## Benz

It seems that UD3s don't have severe vdroops, so I have nothing to worry about.


----------



## Lostintyme

Everyone please PM me your emails for the F5B BIOS(Improves vDroop over F5A!) and I'll send it to you this afternoon. Getting 1.472-1.488 load and 1.5 idle when set 1.475 volts. This I like, makes me want to keep the board.


----------



## mxthunder

Good news indeed, I will be anxiously awaiting feedback from all


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14057131*
> Everyone please PM me your emails for the F5B BIOS(Improves vDroop over F5A!) and I'll send it to you this afternoon. Getting 1.472-1.488 load and 1.5 idle when set 1.475 volts. This I like, makes me want to keep the board.


I told you and you wouldn't listen. I remember saying wait they'll fix it.









I think I deserve one reputation point for that.


----------



## mxthunder

more good news:

read post #85

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,5939.75.html


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14058366*
> more good news:
> 
> read post #85
> 
> http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,5939.75.html


I have been following this thread for a while and I think we finally have an answer that clears this up. I have had my UD7 for a while and haven't had a single problem with it at all. My 955x4 is OC'd to 3.8 and I haven't experienced a single BSOD or issue yet. I think it's also worth noting that these boards have been out for a while and the main topic on this forum has been Vdrop and Vdroop. And now it would appear that this really isn't an issue at all.


----------



## JorundJ

Man, I'm glad this is getting solved, I still want to get the UD7 when bd arrives.


----------



## mxthunder

another interesting article:

http://www.overclockers.com/load-line-calibration/

just for some learning.

now the question is, do I give into temptation and buy the UD7 now, or wait for my GD70 to completely die??
ohh my poor credit card...


----------



## iSeries

So if this is a feature, shouldn't we have an option to turn this feature off? Also if is basically a new feature with these 990FXA boards, why isn't there any mention of it on their website or in the manuals?

Also about the assertion at http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,5939.75.html that this is happening due to a new LLC design, I thought LLC was designed to counter vdroop, not cause it!


----------



## mxthunder

^^ right, that's the only part that does not make sense to me.


----------



## Sin0822

Wait wait, didn't i say that is why there is vdroop a while ago? that these boards are designed for BD and tweaked for BD, and not thuban? And that AMD added vdroop? I must be a mind reader, or maybe I thought hmm why would GB implement droop if they hadn't before?

BTW these DrMOS are used on all Intel Z68 boards, and it only takes a 6+1 phases to power a 250 watt SB CPU with ease, half without heatsinks too. There is nothing wrong with the FETs.

i Series need to understand how LLC is implemented. LLC can only be implemented after there is a vdroop also implemented. Let me explain ok? just hear me out.

#1 you have a PWM (pulse width modulator) this baby controls everything, from the number of phases, to phase switching, to the switching frequency (transient over/under shoot, ripple control), to vdroop, to LLC, to changing the processor voltage(THIS is done by duty cycle (Vout/Vin) changes). The VRM's brain the the PWM, on on your board, you have a dual output PWM, that controls the 8+2 phase power. You also have a VRm for the RAm, CPU PLL, and two for the chipsets, all have their own PWM, but not as complex as the CPU PWM.

#2 A PWM is controlled by error correction. First it has a direct line to the CPU voltage output, and that output is fed back into the PWM. The PWM takes that and amplifies that voltage output, and then uses a comparator to quickly compare the amplified output against a desired voltage that you select. It then changed the duty cycle ratio to change the output from the MOSFETs to change the voltage closer to that you select. For instance if the voltage you set is 1.5v, and the VRm output is 1.495, it will change the duty cycle by X amount to increase teh voltage, then another sample it takes is 1.505 it will reduce the duty cycle to reduce the voltage. it does this sampling thousands of times per second, and you will never watch it happen.

#3 To apply vdroop to the voltage takes more engineering in the form of an extra pin on the PWM. Now this pin will directly be hooked up to the comparator, and it will have a voltage running through it along with an external variable resistor that determines how much to droop the voltage. In normal situations they set a physical set resistance resistor. in the past with a vdroop mod this resistor is bypassed through a variable resistor soldered to it by users.

Now this is how you gotta implement LLC, which is basically replacing the resistor with a digital way of controlling the resistance, which is done by a GPIO(general purpose IO). on Intel boards there are many many levels of LLC incorporated into the GPIO, and I believe they can replace the firmware within the GPIO through a BIOS flash, or there might be like what Intel has, 33 levels.

Now its not as easy as picking a level and applying it, becuase their are many combinations, it take sa very long time and a lot of man hours to determine the best combo. For instance this is how it was laid out in the BIOS on an Intel board.

LLC normal mode levels: Disable, Level1, Level 2
LLC Multi-level levels: Disable, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10.
Then you have voltage offsets that need to be set, so if you select the LLC voltage is offset so much as to not overly over or under volt.

You have to make combos of the above settings and then you get a final LLC.
There ar probably more BIOS options I just don't have control over, like duty cycle control and PWM frequency control which would affect the amount of ripple which could become noticeable.

It isn't as easy as set LLC to ON, not if you want to be able to change everything, especially if a board has preset LLC depending on the CPU used. Who knows maybe you need a BD CPU to unlock LLC control via a more tweaked SVID interface, or maybe they didn't expect ppl to use these boards with thuban.

Anyways last night I showed one of my contacts at gigabyte, around the time I last posted in this thread, and they read the whole thread. They also looked at that UK thread the guy posted after me, and needless to say more progress will be made.


----------



## iSeries

But there is NO LLC control in the BIOS. Not even 'on' or 'off'. It is a fact that these boards suffer from terrible vdroop. Thats just the way it is. The Asus 990fx owners aren't experiencing any of this. As far as I'm concerned vdroop is NOT a desirable feature, especially with no way to control it.

"Maybe they didn't expect ppl to use these boards with thuban" doesn't hold water with me. AMD make their new sockets to be backwards compatible.


----------



## v3dgames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSeries;14063739*
> But there is NO LLC control in the BIOS. Not even 'on' or 'off'. It is a fact that these boards suffer from terrible vdroop. Thats just the way it is. The Asus 990fx owners aren't experiencing any of this. As far as I'm concerned vdroop is NOT a desirable feature, especially with no way to control it.
> 
> "Maybe they didn't expect ppl to use these boards with thuban" doesn't hold water with me. AMD make their new sockets to be backwards compatible.


I agree, If this vdroop is a feature or part of AM3+ why are the Asus boards not have it and why does my 990XA-UD3 only have vboost :/ but I have read about a other person with a 990XA-UD3 having bad vdroop on this forum...


----------



## Sin0822

becuase the asus boards will probably only engage it when a BD CPu is installed. There is no LLC control in BIOS doesn't mean its not present.


----------



## iSeries

Whats the point of having LLC on the board if its not accessible? Also, if it is on the board, it isn't working!


----------



## BramSLI1

http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum/hardware-canucks-reviews/43653-asus-sabertooth-990fx-am3-motherboard-review-4.html

If you read this review you'll find that this board does have LLC. I think Sin0822 is right that it probably isn't being implemented when there isn't a BD processor installed.


----------



## iSeries

Um thats a review of the Sabertooth? I know LLC is implemented on the Asus boards.


----------



## mxthunder

^ thats a different motherboard..


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSeries;14065710*
> Um thats a review of the Sabertooth? I know LLC is implemented on the Asus boards.


I am sorry i laughed too haha.

But in all seriousness, its probably a BD only type thing. They probably didn't realize that people would go crazy over such a small thing that makes no difference really becuase at idle your voltage really doesn't matter. But they know about it now and they are fixing it, in the case of the AMD PWMs from intersil they all have I2C control protocol which is very easy to implement to a BIOS, like all superIO IC that control fans and voltages use, and newer GPUs use, there is a lot they can do with software. From what I understand they haven't known long about the scale of this issue, to them it was a small problem. AMD 990FXA introduces a CPU that will for the first time in many years rival Intel in the highest end platforms, so their design team is most likely trying to incorporate a lot of new good features. Hench the black PCB, the on board buttons, the precision of voltage overvolt, and heatsinks. FYI true AMD3+ VRM design is still under NDA, and I know GIGABYTE always get the voltage regulator certification, they were first to get Intel SVID VRD12 certification, and ASUS didn't have it until a month after launch.

Remember this board is fairly new, platforms need at least a month or two to mature.

All i know if that they are fully aware at this point.


----------



## BramSLI1

I thought there was some discussion as to whether any of the other boards had LLC implementation. Sorry about that.


----------



## Sin0822

dont worry about it man, yea asus boards have it do far.


----------



## LukaTCE

Just got GA-990FXA-UD3


----------



## Benz

And...? Tell us more do you have vdroop, can you unlock your CPU cores, anything useful.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14074214*
> And...? Tell us more do you have vdroop, can you unlock your CPU cores, anything useful.


Speaking of unlocking CPU cores, mine aren't unlocking even with 1.5v.

Edit: They unlock fine and al OC to 3.7 on a M498TD-EVO


----------



## IOSEFINI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14074845*
> Speaking of unlocking CPU cores, mine aren't unlocking even with 1.5v.
> 
> Edit: They unlock fine and al OC to 3.7 on a M498TD-EVO


You should have stayed with ASUS
Gigabyte-->







<--Asus...







.
Thats my opinion.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IOSEFINI;14075053*
> You should have stayed with ASUS
> Gigabyte-->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <--Asus...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Thats my opinion.


I hate ASUS, but I'm replacing my UD5 with a CHV formula soon. Terrible support along with a bunch of useless features.


----------



## Sin0822

hey guys so they are going to release an official response soon. I also have working a vdroop mod to totally disable vdroop. but there is no way i am going to post it publicly. If you want to know how to do it PM me, but please know if you screw it up your board is out of warranty. . If you do not wish to do the mod, there will be other options.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


hey guys so they are going to release an official response soon. I also have working a vdroop mod to totally disable vdroop. but there is no way i am going to post it publicly. If you want to know how to do it PM me, but please know if you screw it up your board is out of warranty. . If you do not wish to do the mod, there will be other options.


Awesome, within 10 days? Still leaning towards the CHVF. And the mod, I want it, will it be just a BIOS? How would that void a warranty?


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:



Originally Posted by *IOSEFINI*


You should have stayed with ASUS








Gigabyte-->







<--Asus...







.
Thats my opinion.


too bad they have no sense of style or know how to logically place things on a motherboard...


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


too bad they have no sense of style or know how to logically place things on a motherboard...


Are you kidding? My Crosshair V is a sexy beast and functions well.


----------



## mxthunder

only partially. I have several asus boards in my machines, and almost bought the crosshair V, but one thing really pissed me off about it...

whhhy did they put that connector there? It must make for a cable management mess when you need to use it. And why a molex? Those things are so ugly and it probably looks worse when its not hooked up.


----------



## Tatakai All

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


only partially. I have several asus boards in my machines, and almost bought the crosshair V, but one thing really pissed me off about it...

whhhy did they put that connector there? It must make for a cable management mess when you need to use it. And why a molex? Those things are so ugly and it probably looks worse when its not hooked up.


Fan maybe? I dunno.


----------



## Sin0822

no its an old fashioned vdroop mod, it permanently changes it to no droop at all, just like older GB boards, its not a BIOS.


----------



## LBear

Sin0822 if u are testing the UD7, whats your opinion on the board? What do u think about the vdroop?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tatakai All*


Fan maybe? I dunno.


It's there for safety. If you have 4 GTX 480s in SLI, they pull so much power from the PCIE slots(300w alone from the PCIEs at load, not the 8 pin power plugs) that you'll end up lighting some of your 24 pin wires on fire from too much current flowing through it.


----------



## steamboat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14075773*
> only partially. I have several asus boards in my machines, and almost bought the crosshair V, but one thing really pissed me off about it...
> 
> whhhy did they put that connector there? It must make for a cable management mess when you need to use it. And why a molex? Those things are so ugly and it probably looks worse when its not hooked up.


i'm fairly certain that's to stabilize the pcie power when you're running xfire/trifire/quad.... oh wait, yeah the CHV can't do quad









on a side note, just got the UD7 in today, but i have to finish my case mod before i can toy with it.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear;14075941*
> Sin0822 if u are testing the UD7, whats your opinion on the board? What do u think about the vdroop?


yes i actually am reviewing it, but haven't tested it much yet, actually i am not going to lie i haven't even removed it from the box. I cannot comment on it yet, but known that by 1 month from now it wont be an issue any longer, i just got an email today.
This is their official statement. I told you guys that I contacted them, and they sure did take action very quickly.

This is what I am told is the official response.
"GIGABYTE 990 series motherboards strictly follow the AMD AM3+ load line calibration design guide, and so CPU V-core voltage will drop according to loading. Such calibrations are built into the platform to protect the user's purchase and prevent damage to the PC system."


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steamboat;14076373*
> i'm fairly certain that's to stabilize the pcie power when you're running xfire/trifire/quad.... oh wait, yeah the CHV can't do quad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on a side note, just got the UD7 in today, but i have to finish my case mod before i can toy with it.


i know what its for, but look where gig put it on the UD7 - on the front edge so you can organize your cables nicely, and they used a nice modern sata power connector so its more discrete and since its up front, where most people have hard drives, its really easy to run a wire over to it.


----------



## Sin0822

yea they have two of those on the X58A-OC they call it PCI-E PEG, its actually a very well thought out thing


----------



## steamboat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14076919*
> i know what its for, but look where gig put it on the UD7 - on the front edge so you can organize your cables nicely, and they used a nice modern sata power connector so its more discrete and since its up front, where most people have hard drives, its really easy to run a wire over to it.


sorry that was a misquote, meant to quote tatakai. i was rushing to finish my case mod. managed to get one pic up before they closed the thread


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14074845*
> Speaking of unlocking CPU cores, mine aren't unlocking even with 1.5v.
> 
> Edit: They unlock fine and al OC to 3.7 on a M498TD-EVO


And did it unlock on your previous board?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


And did it unlock on your previous board?


I didn't use it on my TA890FXE. I was planning to go from a 1090T+TA890FXE straight to this board and Bulldozer but the delay kinda screwed me up so I'm using this CPU for now.


----------



## VaNiaL

Just had a BSOD with UD3 board. ItÂ´s been running fine for 2 weeks now.
HereÂ´s a dump
http://www.2shared.com/file/xDRkiZ-X...-23727-01.html

Latest bios, latest win updates, latest drivers from gigabyte.

If someone could identify the problem I would be really happy!

Edit: Is it normal for the NB freq to higher itself? I set it to 10x which should be the standard 2000MHz.
















Could this be causing the BSOD? set down my Corsair XSM3 to 1333MHz that might help?


----------



## LukaTCE

Can sombody help me how to unlock cores in phenom 555 with 990fxa-ud3 i only found CPU unlock but only show me 0 and 1 core and only can select enable/disable


----------



## rusky1

Has Gigabyte mentioned when they plan on updating to a UEFI BIOS yet? It's about the only thing (aside from saving up a bit of money) that's keeping me from purchasing this board.


----------



## tw33k

"UEFI BIOS" is a mis-nomer


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LukaTCE*


Can sombody help me how to unlock cores in phenom 555 with 990fxa-ud3 i only found CPU unlock but only show me 0 and 1 core and only can select enable/disable


Enable Core Unlock. It doesn't allow you to manage which cores you'd like on I think.


----------



## v3dgames

Quote:



Originally Posted by *VaNiaL*


Just had a BSOD with UD3 board. ItÂ´s been running fine for 2 weeks now.
HereÂ´s a dump
http://www.2shared.com/file/xDRkiZ-X...-23727-01.html

Latest bios, latest win updates, latest drivers from gigabyte.

If someone could identify the problem I would be really happy!

Edit: Is it normal for the NB freq to higher itself? I set it to 10x which should be the standard 2000MHz.
















Could this be causing the BSOD? set down my Corsair XSM3 to 1333MHz that might help?


Does it pass IBT, Prime95, Memtest or others?
If this http://www.corsair.com/memory/xms-cl...m2a2000c9.html
or this http://www.corsair.com/memory/xms-cl...m2a1600c9.html is your kit
it says it should be run at 1.65v do you have it set to auto in the bios?


----------



## Sin0822

UEFI doesn't mean GUI at all. So its not a misnomer.


----------



## OverclockedUnicorn

UD3 waiting in box here also..

Anyone running this mobo with scythe mugen 2b or noctua nh-d14(does it fits ok)?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *OverclockedUnicorn*


UD3 waiting in box here also..

Anyone running this mobo with scythe mugen 2b or noctua nh-d14(does it fits ok)?


Both will work fine. Edit: Both might clear tall RAM though.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


UEFI doesn't mean GUI at all. So its not a misnomer.


What???







UEFI is not a BIOS so calling it "UEFI BIOS" is wrong.


----------



## Sin0822

i am sorry but doesn't UEFI just mean its a link between OS and the BIOS? It doesn't imply a GUI BIOS at any time. By definition gigabyte's Hybrid UEFI is just that a way for users in windows to operate their BIOS.

It says no where in there that you have to have a GUI BIOS to incorporate UEFI http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Extensible_Firmware_Interface


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14086917*
> i am sorry but doesn't UEFI just mean its a link between OS and the BIOS? It doesn't imply a GUI BIOS at any time. By definition gigabyte's Hybrid UEFI is just that a way for users in windows to operate their BIOS.
> 
> It says no where in there that you have to have a GUI BIOS to incorporate UEFI http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Extensible_Firmware_Interface


So we agree that UEFI is not BIOS but you say I'm wrong calling "UEFI BIOS" a misnomer? I'm so confused.


----------



## VaNiaL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v3dgames;14083604*
> Does it pass IBT, Prime95, Memtest or others?
> If this http://www.corsair.com/memory/xms-classic/xms3-ddr3-memory/cmx4gx3m2a2000c9.html
> or this http://www.corsair.com/memory/xms-classic/xms3-ddr3-memory/cmx4gx3m2a1600c9.html is your kit
> it says it should be run at 1.65v do you have it set to auto in the bios?


Memtest shows no errors. Going to try Prime95 now.
Yes I have the 1600MHz version. It´s on auto in the bios should I set it to 1,65v?
But why does the bus speed higher it self? It´s on 200 in the bios. When I look at CPU-Z it moves between 201-202, which means my memory speed goes above 1600MHz. But they should make that?

Edit: Running prime95 now, how long should I run it? Also set the memory voltage to 1,65.


----------



## v3dgames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VaNiaL;14088929*
> Memtest shows no errors. Going to try Prime95 now.
> Yes I have the 1600MHz version. It´s on auto in the bios should I set it to 1,65v?
> But why does the bus speed higher it self? It´s on 200 in the bios. When I look at CPU-Z it moves between 201-202, which means my memory speed goes above 1600MHz. But they should make that?
> 
> Edit: Running prime95 now, how long should I run it? Also set the memory voltage to 1,65.


1.Yes you should run it at it's rated/tested voltage to be safe









2.It's at 200 in my bios but cpu-z shows a solid 200.9 some motherboards will
go over the set value by a little and some might go little under.
If you have everything at stock 202 should not effect anything to the point it becomes unstable.

If you want it to be right at 200 you could set it to 199 or 198 in the bios and see what cpu-z shows but again it should not be causing any problems the way it is.

By the way you might want to read this about the AMD IMC and running ram @ 1600MHz
http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,2515.0.html


----------



## VaNiaL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *v3dgames;14089222*
> 1.Yes you should run it at it's rated/tested voltage to be safe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.It's at 200 in my bios but cpu-z shows a solid 200.9 some motherboards will
> go over the set value by a little and some might go little under.
> If you have everything at stock 202 should not effect anything to the point it becomes unstable.
> 
> If you want it to be right at 200 you could set it to 199 or 198 in the bios and see what cpu-z shows but again it should not be causing any problems the way it is.
> 
> By the way you might want to read this about the AMD IMC and running ram @ 1600MHz
> http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,2515.0.html


Interesting reading. I might just set it at 1333 and wait for Bulldozer. If I run into a bsod again I will post here again.
Thanks for the help.


----------



## m_jones_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14083540*
> Enable Core Unlock. It doesn't allow you to manage which cores you'd like on I think.


It does, it allows you to select which core you would like on.


----------



## LBear

Does the amd chipset drivers for these boards have TRIM support?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;14087168*
> So we agree that UEFI is not BIOS but you say I'm wrong calling "UEFI BIOS" a misnomer? I'm so confused.


i think i misunderstood your point, my bad.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14095477*
> i think i misunderstood your point, my bad.


Not a problem


----------



## mxthunder

Hey Sin, has gigabyte made their official announcement yet or was the post on the other forum considered to be their word?

on a side note, just bought myself a UD7!!! This should be one sweeet board:


----------



## Sin0822

"GIGABYTE 990 series motherboards strictly follow the AMD AM3+ load line calibration design guide, and so CPU V-core voltage will drop according to loading. Such calibrations are built into the platform to protect the user’s purchase and prevent damage to the PC system"


----------



## Evil Penguin

I just bought a UD7!
Hope to join the club soon.
For the sake of the motherboard, I also bought a Noctua NH-D14.
This should be fun.


----------



## tw33k

Still having issues with start up. Quite often it takes a few extra seconds when it says "Loading Operating System". My boot time has increased dramatically since installing my UD7. Any ideas?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;14108597*
> Still having issues with start up. Quite often it takes a few extra seconds when it says "Loading Operating System". My boot time has increased dramatically since installing my UD7. Any ideas?


Same, I don't know what's causing it, but when I hold "Tab" at the BIOS splash screen, it shows me the details then gives me that little flashing line for typing. After that I have to reset.


----------



## tw33k

It's definitely a problem that needs to be fixed. Looks like I'm joining the Gigabyte forums to see what others have to say


----------



## toddville393

I just bought the UD3 in for my new bulldozer rig. Hopefully they will release it soon that way my board don't just sit around an collect dust.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;14108979*
> It's definitely a problem that needs to be fixed. Looks like I'm joining the Gigabyte forums to see what others have to say


Let us know what you find out. I will post any similar findings I have when my board arrives.


----------



## hacksaw907

Just started oc'ing on my 990fxa-ud5, and i'm also suffering from severe vdroop. I have it set to 1.475 in the bios, but upon load, it goes right down to 1.38v. I really wished i found this forum before purchasing this board. I was hoping to get away from vdroop issues on my old board, not get worse ones


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hacksaw907;14112196*
> Just started oc'ing on my 990fxa-ud5, and i'm also suffering from severe vdroop. I have it set to 1.475 in the bios, but upon load, it goes right down to 1.38v. I really wished i found this forum before purchasing this board. I was hoping to get away from vdroop issues on my old board, not get worse ones


Please PM me your email for the F5B BIOS. It improves vDroop greatly.


----------



## kzone75

Ordered a 990FXA-UD3 today. Should hopefully get it by the end of the week. Nothing wrong with the board I have now, but I might want to go crossfire soon (next week). And I need to put my summer vacation money somewhere useful.







If there's anything you need me to know that's not mentioned in this thread, please share.









Have had the 770 for about 2 years. Extremely good for overclocking even though I only paid 90 bucks for it. I guess that's why I chose Gigabyte once again.


----------



## Evil Penguin

The Crosshair IV has treated me very well.
I like the layout of the UD7 better.


----------



## hacksaw907

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14112267*
> Please PM me your email for the F5B BIOS. It improves vDroop greatly.


I just uploaded the new bios (thanks, btw), but I still maintain 1.38V when stressing my CPU under IBT









It's stable at 3.9ghz right now, but I don't think I'll be able to get the magical 4ghz out of this processor with this much vdroop.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hacksaw907;14112196*
> Just started oc'ing on my 990fxa-ud5, and i'm also suffering from severe vdroop. I have it set to 1.475 in the bios, but upon load, it goes right down to 1.38v. I really wished i found this forum before purchasing this board. I was hoping to get away from vdroop issues on my old board, not get worse ones


Hey can you take a picture of your board for me? in the section right to the top of the CPU, there is a small square chip, can you take a upclose pic of that chip for me?

BTW for the long boot, try disabling USb legacy support.


----------



## fidof650

P1 updated with new content and new [Unverified] members

Keep up the great work guys!

~fidof650


----------



## Lordred

Waiting for another set of driver to put my 2nd 480 back in.


----------



## hacksaw907

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14114868*
> Hey can you take a picture of your board for me? in the section right to the top of the CPU, there is a small square chip, can you take a upclose pic of that chip for me?
> 
> BTW for the long boot, try disabling USb legacy support.


Wish I could, but my CPU waterblock and tubing is practically blocking that area entirely, so I won't be able to get a clear picture of it.

As for your recommendation related to USB legacy support, I did try it, and it did drop the boot time by a bit, but nothing significant really.


----------



## tw33k

I tried it as well and for the first 3 re-boots it seemed to work but on the next one it happened again. Maybe it's not the board. Maybe it's the AHCI driver. I'll test it tonight


----------



## Sin0822

yea id also check the Intel ROm version, maybe another BIOS would be better?


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14128165*
> yea id also check the Intel ROm version, maybe another BIOS would be better?


It's an AMD board. This problem occurs with both the currently available BIOSes


----------



## mxthunder

My board should be here today. This is gonna be interesting to say the least. Hope im not dissapointed


----------



## Evil Penguin

My UD7 gets here tomorrow. 
Can't wait to install that puppy.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tw33k*


It's an AMD board. This problem occurs with both the currently available BIOSes


haha yea i forgot. on the Intel side we have Intel's RAID/AHCI ROM, Marvell ROM, Realtek ROM and so ion for every controller on the board, i am guessing there is an AMD RAID/AHCI ROM.


----------



## chaics

wanna ask.. couldn't understand this statement.. from GA-990FXA-UD5 spec.

Quote:



*2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x16 (PCIEX16_1, PCIEX16_2) (Note 3)*
1 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x8 (PCIEX8) (Note 4)
2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x4 (PCIEX4_1, PCIEX4_2)
1 x PCI Express x1 slot
(All PCI Express slots conform to the PCI Express 2.0 standard.)
1 x PCI slot


does it means that if i wanna xfire, i'll be running both lanes at x16 speed??


----------



## Evil Penguin

That's correct.


----------



## N3Xus

Gigabyte's new color scheme is so friggen cool!


----------



## mxthunder

well she came in!! Unfortunately the timing is a bit bad, I have a wedding, a graduation, and a motorcycle race all this weekend. Hopefully I can squeeze some quality time in with it Saturday morning.

The box is HEAVY!


----------



## Evil Penguin

About 8 pounds, eh?
Even though I get my UD7 today, won't be able to install till Saturday.


----------



## mxthunder

Sin, do you still need pics of that one corner? Is this the right area?


----------



## kzone75

Yay! Got the 990FXA-UD3 earlier today. It's pretty! BUT it would not let me install Windows 7 for some reason. Will have to find out why that is. Running Vista now.







Probably a bad installation disk.
Why does it say SB850 on the CPU-Z? Isn't it a SB950?








Well, it runs beautifully. Nothing to complain about at all. 14mm wider than the 770TA-UD3, so it looks better in the Storm Sniper. Also had to order another 6850. Just have to put that summer vacation money somewhere useful.








Now I have to wait for the cable sleeves that I ordered on the 21th from MDPC-X. Not sure why it takes so long.. I want/need it NOW!


----------



## Evil Penguin

It would not let you install W7?
Does it hang?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*


It would not let you install W7?
Does it hang?


The dvd led was lit like it was reading, but it never moved from 0%. Waited for about 30 mins, but nothing happened. No problems installing Vista, though. Have to try creating a bootable usb and try it that way. There's a few scratches on the dvd..


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


The dvd led was lit like it was reading, but it never moved from 0%. Waited for about 30 mins, but nothing happened. No problems installing Vista, though. Have to try creating a bootable usb and try it that way. There's a few scratches on the dvd..


Use some 99% on it with a paper towl.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*


Use some 99% on it with a paper towl.


Tried it. Didn't work.







Now if only I could find the usb stick.. I know I put it where I could easily find it, but obviously that place has moved.

It's nice to see the TMPIN2 not being in the 79-81C on this mobo. Was showing those temps on the 770TA. According to Gigabyte, it was perfectly normal for the 770 chipset. It's in the lower 40s now.








Also noticed that there's only one degree difference between TMPIN1 and the core temps. Was 4-5 degrees difference on the other board. What is the TMPIN0 for then?
Would be nice to do some overclocking, but it's way to hot here now.


----------



## Traxion

Quote:



Originally Posted by *hacksaw907*


Wish I could, but my CPU waterblock and tubing is practically blocking that area entirely, so I won't be able to get a clear picture of it.

As for your recommendation related to USB legacy support, I did try it, and it did drop the boot time by a bit, but nothing significant really.


Hey curious about these statements posted earlier. What exactly is USB legacy support? I saw something that said if you disable it then you can't use usb devices until the OS loads. In that case you can't access BIOS again it sounds like? I haven't found anything that sounded like a solid answer on the internet to me. Any help from some pros would be awesome.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


Sin, do you still need pics of that one corner? Is this the right area?


Hey thank you.

As to legacy USb support, i use my USB keyboard before the OS loads just fine. I think its just support for older OSes.


----------



## tw33k

Legacy USB support provides USB functionality in environments where there normally is not USB support

See here for a good explanation


----------



## mxthunder

Installing the mobo as we speak, may even get to boot her up tonight. posting from my wifes PC. will post pics soon.

only complaint so far - lack of fan headers! only 4, and they are poorly placed


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


Installing the mobo as we speak, may even get to boot her up tonight. posting from my wifes PC. will post pics soon.

only complaint so far - lack of fan headers! only 4, and they are poorly placed


Run fans off molex connectors or a fan controller?


----------



## tw33k

I have 2 CPU fans on the 4pin header, a 3rd CPU fan on the PWR_FAN header and 4 fans on the other 2 headers. That's plenty for me. I thought they were positioned a lot better than other boards I've owned.


----------



## mxthunder

Yeah, I think ill get by with whats on the mobo, I already have a ton of molex/3pin adapters for my radiator and other case fans. Got the system up and running
So far - voltage set to 1.400 in BIOS yields 1.408-1.424 in windows - fluctuates like crazy... not good
Under load, 1.400 yields 1.375 and all the way down to 1.344, again, fluctuates - not good.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Took a few hours to completely rebuild, but it's done-ish now.
Sorry for the crappy pics.
Just needs a few tweaks here and there.

Something I can confirm while overclocking is the vcore fluctuations.
The CPU is so far rock solid when I set the vcore to 1.4750v @ 4GHz.
The reported voltage while under load is 1.39v and the highest while idle is 1.52v.
Weird stuff.


----------



## Lostintyme

Guys, GIGABYTE has told this to me and another user- the vcore fluctuation is part of the AM3+ LLC design. For BD CPUs.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Not really a problem for me.
I'll be riding along with this CPU for another two months and then K15 time.


----------



## rchpi36

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14156631*
> Guys, GIGABYTE has told this to me and another user- the vcore fluctuation is part of the AM3+ LLC design. For BD CPUs.


that is great news


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14156631*
> Guys, GIGABYTE has told this to me and another user- the vcore fluctuation is part of the AM3+ LLC design. For BD CPUs.


yes, we all know this, just stating the facts...

Evil... we have very similar setups..!


----------



## Evil Penguin

After running IBT (30 iterations on very high) I finally got it stable with 1.50v set in the BIOS. Temps never exceeded 48c. That's 5/6 degrees better than my H70 and much quieter.


----------



## iSeries

So....how many people have / are going to RMA? I've got an open RMA but haven't sent it back yet, hoping that Gigabyte will sort these 'issues' out. Will they be able to add LLC control with a BIOS update, or is this it?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSeries;14166127*
> So....how many people have / are going to RMA? I've got an open RMA but haven't sent it back yet, hoping that Gigabyte will sort these 'issues' out. Will they be able to add LLC control with a BIOS update, or is this it?


I don't really mind the droop, I'm getting the same clocks the previous owner had with the exception of unlocking the 4th core. I'll be fine using this board for the next 2 years.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSeries;14166127*
> So....how many people have / are going to RMA? I've got an open RMA but haven't sent it back yet, hoping that Gigabyte will sort these 'issues' out. Will they be able to add LLC control with a BIOS update, or is this it?


I'm not.
I think the fluctuations aren't as bad as the programs are reporting it to be.


----------



## kzone75

Need some newbie-ish help here..







Can someone enlighten me on how to set up RAID0 on this mobo, please. I am a tad confuzzled. 
I have Windows on the ssd, got 2x 500GB 6Gb/s that I wish to RAID (for programs and games). When I set OnChip SATA type to RAID it will blue screen right when the windows orbs comes flying in. Will I have to put the RAID driver on a usb stick and reinstall Windows? Because when I have it set to RAID it won't find the Gigabyte cd. Which kinda makes sense, I guess..

Was simple on my other mobo.. Marvell for the SATA 6Gb/s and AMD for the 3Gb/s..

Pretty happy with the UD3 so far. Have had some problems getting in to the BIOS at times. But it's not like I go there much. Lower voltages at 4GHz than before, but I won't complain about that. 
Can't do any stress testings yet. Room temps at ~27C / ~81F.


----------



## MadGoat

you need to install the raid drivers in windows before switching the bios from ahci or native to raid. that way windows knows the correct driver to use while loading.

In some occasions you may have to "enable" raid in windows regardless of if the driver is installed or not.

refer to this for help in doing so. this will allow you to enable raid without having to reinstall windows with raid switched on:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/975453/en-us

I am new here and joined up because i am very interested in the UD3. I love the layout of the PCIe and it has everything you need and not much of what you dont ;-)

its great to see peoples experience here. Thank you guys for all the info.


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


Need some newbie-ish help here..







Can someone enlighten me on how to set up RAID0 on this mobo, please. I am a tad confuzzled. 
I have Windows on the ssd, got 2x 500GB 6Gb/s that I wish to RAID (for programs and games). When I set OnChip SATA type to RAID it will blue screen right when the windows orbs comes flying in. Will I have to put the RAID driver on a usb stick and reinstall Windows? Because when I have it set to RAID it won't find the Gigabyte cd. Which kinda makes sense, I guess..

Was simple on my other mobo.. Marvell for the SATA 6Gb/s and AMD for the 3Gb/s..

Pretty happy with the UD3 so far. Have had some problems getting in to the BIOS at times. But it's not like I go there much. Lower voltages at 4GHz than before, but I won't complain about that. 
Can't do any stress testings yet. Room temps at ~27C / ~81F.










What do you mean by lover voltages? Are you saying that you have vdroop or that you don't need higher voltages to achieve the stability of your 4.3GHz OC? Please explain.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadGoat*


you need to install the raid drivers in windows before switching the bios from ahci or native to raid. that way windows knows the correct driver to use while loading.

In some occasions you may have to "enable" raid in windows regardless of if the driver is installed or not.

refer to this for help in doing so. this will allow you to enable raid without having to reinstall windows with raid switched on:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/975453/en-us

I am new here and joined up because i am very interested in the UD3. I love the layout of the PCIe and it has everything you need and not much of what you dont ;-)

its great to see peoples experience here. Thank you guys for all the info.


Thank you kindly, but sadly it didn't work. Same lovely blue screen. Installed the RAID drivers and all. Might try it again later, or reinstall. Just for the fun of it.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


What do you mean by lover voltages? Are you saying that you have vdroop or that you don't need higher voltages to achieve the stability of your 4.3GHz OC? Please explain.










Oops. Not running at 4.3GHz now.







Will have to save that until it gets a little chillier. But at 4.0GHz it needs 1.392. At load it'll droop to 1.376. Not sure it will be stable while stressing testing, but I'll give it a try tonight. 
The 1.424V I have in my sig is for 4.0GHz. Forgot to change that a while ago. Getting old = senile







Needed 1.46V for 4.3GHz back in the days..


----------



## OverclockedUnicorn

Here this guy is writing some about raid
http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.p...ic,5704.0.html


----------



## kzone75

Tried getting it to work for 4 hours. I am fairly patient, you know. Ended up reinstalling Windows. Now it's like new again.







But I think that Gigabyte should really fix the problems trying to get into BIOS. Out of 10 times, I succeeded once..


----------



## mxthunder

I can safely state that I have no issues getting into BIOS, or slow bootup times.. so far.

Going to play with SLI tonight hopefully. Still have to get my CPU stable too.


----------



## Evil Penguin

I had problems getting into the BIOS w/ version F3.
I managed to fix it by updating the BIOS to version F4B.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14175149*
> Thank you kindly, but sadly it didn't work. Same lovely blue screen. Installed the RAID drivers and all. Might try it again later, or reinstall. Just for the fun of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oops. Not running at 4.3GHz now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will have to save that until it gets a little chillier. But at 4.0GHz it needs 1.392. At load it'll droop to 1.376. Not sure it will be stable while stressing testing, but I'll give it a try tonight.
> The 1.424V I have in my sig is for 4.0GHz. Forgot to change that a while ago. Getting old = senile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Needed 1.46V for 4.3GHz back in the days..


Thanks for explaining.









0.016v ahh that's nothing don't worry, it'll be stable.


----------



## bdpakaknox

Hey guys, im in the market for a new mobo and have been looking at the ga990fxa-ud3. But I have a question, would it be wise to spend they extra cash on a ud7 if ill just be running a single gpu? Will I achieve higher overclocks on the cpu
from the ud7?


----------



## Benz

I don't think it will. If you're planning on using a single card then you might wanna consider buying GA-990FXA-UD3 or maybe even GA-990XA-UD3.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14180221*
> I don't think it will. If you're planning on using a single card then you might wanna consider buying GA-990FXA-UD3 or maybe even GA-990XA-UD3.


Here is my reasoning behind why I think the UD3 is a better fit. (for me at least)










The Red box will be your single dual slot video card. The Blue will be the second card IF and/or WHEN a sli/crossfire setup is used.

This is the kicker, Both slots run FULL PCIe2.0 x16. Bonus.
BUT even with BOTH main GPU x16 slots are used you still retain use of your PCIe x4 slots. (additional raid card for some raid SSD lovin latter on... or whatever). Not to mention the middle PCIe x4 allows air flow between the 2 cards that can be installed.
On top of that you still have a PCIe x1 slot chillin' for whatever you might want. (extra USB 3.0? Sound card?)

The port setup is excellent.
Further more, NO HEATPIPES! I use a BTX case. And heatpipes dont always agree with being mounted upside down. Yes, yes... they should be wicked and it should not be an issue... But even if wicked correctly the way it is configured to transfer heat (from south chips to mosfets, to cool via rear fan and flow back down) is all messed up.
So (again in my case) this is a win, win.

As far as i have researched all the UDx boards have the same power setup. 8+2. So i dont think there is anything to gain from that. it just boils down to additional features, and video cards that can be used.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14176917*
> Gigabyte should really fix the problems trying to get into BIOS. Out of 10 times, I succeeded once..


Are you using a USB or PS/2 keyboard when working in BIOS?

On my UD7, I experienced some issues with my USB keyboard with the F3 BIOS before flashing to F4B.
I know your using F2 on your UD3 but I'm wondering if you are having a smiler issue and are at the mercy of the next BIOS update.

Try a PS/2 keyboard and see if that helps. It was a workable solution for me before F4B came out.
(I like to keep a PS/2 keyboard attached whenever I'm tweaking anyway)

~fidof650


----------



## mxthunder

Ok, I am starting to get a little frustrated with this dam voltage fluctuation.
Setting 1.45 in bios, getting 1.344 under load. a .11 drop is just plain stupid, not only that, but the voltage is not stable at all. Goes from 1.456 - 1.392 - 1.360 - 1.344 - 1.392 all over the place constantly.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650;14180952*
> Are you using a USB or PS/2 keyboard when working in BIOS?
> 
> On my UD7, I experienced some issues with my USB keyboard with the F3 BIOS before flashing to F4B.
> I know your using F2 on your UD3 but I'm wondering if you are having a smiler issue and are at the mercy of the next BIOS update.
> 
> Try a PS/2 keyboard and see if that helps. It was a workable solution for me before F4B came out.
> (I like to keep a PS/2 keyboard attached whenever I'm tweaking anyway)
> 
> ~fidof650


I've tried both USB and PS/2. Same results for both. I might or might not get in. Guess I'll have to wait for a beta BIOS. I am pretty sure I am not alone with this issue.







Well, I don't have to visit the BIOS a lot though. And I am very happy with the way I have it set up right now.


----------



## Loosenut

I flashed with the f4 bios and now I can successfully unlock my 555 with no OC. not really seeing much vdroop anymore. it has been fluctuating between 1.41 and 1.42 for about an hour now, passed everest system stability test after 20 min...about to fire up something more strenuous.


----------



## Loosenut

I take back what I said earlier, any benchmarking and instant system lockup. I played with cpu voltages with no luck. so I locked my cpu back to a dual and will wait like everyone else til BD drops. thinking of moving back to my 785g board til then at least I'll be on a quad then.


----------



## Willhemmens

990FX-UD7 arrives in less than 9 hours, should be fun. Sort of strange though, I was expecting to be kind of more excited, which I am but I guess I could of opted for non-next day shipping and still have been happy.

May even fire up the old phase unit for a couple hours, see what this board can really do, with DDR3 too. Will be lots of fun.

Also Loosenut, you shouldn't really double post.


----------



## Loosenut

I didn't, it was an update to what I had previously stated.


----------



## Lostintyme

Anyone have a new bios Past F5 B? Sorry for grammar Using voice recognition software


----------



## mxthunder

I havn't even seen F5B on the gigabyte website yet.

One positive note... I get 4fps higher in crysis with my 580 than I did before with this board vs my old 790 board.

The SLI implementation SUCKS though. Could not get my tri sli 9800GTX's to work (one is detected as an 8800GT) and when I run my 260's in SLI they get less fps in crysis than my 9800's and they crash instantly in vantage.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut;14183412*
> I didn't, it was an update to what I had previously stated.


That is what the edit post function is for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14184045*
> Anyone have a new bios Past F5 B? Sorry for grammar Using voice recognition software


I would be interested in copy of that also.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14184078*
> I havn't even seen F5B on the gigabyte website yet.
> 
> One positive note... I get 4fps higher in crysis with my 580 than I did before with this board vs my old 790 board.
> 
> The SLI implementation SUCKS though. Could not get my tri sli 9800GTX's to work (one is detected as an 8800GT) and when I run my 260's in SLI they get less fps in crysis than my 9800's and they crash instantly in vantage.


Nvidia is probably to thank for that one. Once a couple updates are out, they should sort a couple things out.

Update:

So, the board is in. I too am getting terrible Vdroop. From 1.6v in bios to 1.54v at idle and 1.376v under load at stock speeds. Gigabyte needs to fix that very quickly.

Here's a couple photos:


----------



## mxthunder

SLI 9800GTX's

(only dual)


----------



## iSeries

@ Willhemmens - have you reported the vdroop to Gigabyte? Everyone concerned by it needs to make a bit of noise otherwise I fear Gigabyte are just going to brush it under the carpet and stick to their current 'excuse' that the boards are doing this 'by design'.


----------



## Willhemmens

I have indeed and I shall continue too. By design for Bulldozer? Well there is no bulldozer and yet they are selling the boards. The site says my CPU is supported, so it better be atleast stable, which it wasn't with auto or normal voltages. My old 790FX-UD3P was far better.

Infact, I'm going to attempt to phone them. Gigabyte USA is not open.


----------



## iSeries

Gigabyte say 'by design' according to AMD's spec for AM3+. I'm having a hard time believing it (massive vboost at idle?!), but if it's true why no LLC control? Also apparently the UD3 boards don't have this 'feature'.


----------



## Willhemmens

I'm getting no Vboost, just buckets of Vdroop.


----------



## iSeries

ah you're lucky then! 1.35v in BIOS means I get 1.38v at idle and 1.31v at load! Also setting 1.65v for RAM gets 1.62v. None of this is right!


----------



## Willhemmens

I'm not really lucky since I've got 1.6v set in the bios, I get 1.54v at idle and 1.376v under load at stock speeds Basically means I have to have 1.6v set to keep my CPU stable.


----------



## iSeries

you're the first person i've come across reporting vdroop at idle, i certainly hope gigabyte are big enough to admit there's a problem and correct it.


----------



## mxthunder

I have yet to get my CPU stable at 4.0. Regarless of how much voltage I give it. Before, it would be stable with 1.424 on my 790 board. Now, even setting 1.55 in bios, yielding 1.44 under load, - CPU still is not stable.


----------



## Willhemmens

With 1.575v set in bios, I'm stable at 4GHz. Going to see if I can push anymore but really its just stupid trying with these amounts of voltage fluctuation.

Edit: This sucks, I was really hoping to get the phase unit out today and freeze some stuff.


----------



## terence52

Anyone with a Ud3 can report how bad the vdroop is?
Gonna jump from my 990xa to a 990fxa-ud3 but seeing the awesome vdroop isnt kinda what i expect..
mine is only 0.3 drop and 0.1 up.


----------



## mxthunder

you guys can also follow my thread here:

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.p...ic,6102.0.html


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *terence52*


Anyone with a Ud3 can report how bad the vdroop is?
Gonna jump from my 990xa to a 990fxa-ud3 but seeing the awesome vdroop isnt kinda what i expect.. 
mine is only 0.3 drop and 0.1 up.


0.016V is all the droop I see. That's at 4.0GHz. 1.392V idle, 1.376V load.







Have to bump it up a notch now to get it benchmark-stable.









Edit: Interesting.. At stock speed (3.4GHz 1.376V in the BIOS) the difference is higher. From 1.344V load to 1.376 idle.


----------



## crossy82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *iSeries*


you're the first person i've come across reporting vdroop at idle, i certainly hope gigabyte are big enough to admit there's a problem and correct it.


Iseriously hope they do fix this,not looking good though,cant believe they not fixed it already







I was hoping to get the UD3 as it was all black and would fit my build i've got in progress to a t.Where the hell are Gigabyte anyway,the gigabyte forum is useless,the mods dont even have direct links to them.

Gigabyte...if your out there give us some answers or even better a fix,otherwise i'm going else where for sure









Has anyone had any feedback from Gigabyte?If so what is thier response?


----------



## kzone75

Yay! Post #200.. I am not a member of the gigabyte forum, but if someone could maybe post a link there pointing to this club.. If not already done, that is. Not sure it would help much, but at least it would be something. I might spam their facebook pages soon as well.


----------



## crossy82

Here you go KZone:

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.p...ic,6102.0.html

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.p...ic,5939.0.html

Does'nt look good does it,and Gigabyte always had a high standing in my eyes.Ican imagine that there overclocking events with these boards will be pretty damn mental,lol,dead Bulldozers strewn all over the joint.


----------



## kzone75

Thanx.







Well, I wrote to their technical support. Worked well the last time I had some problems. Trying to bring them over to read our pages here on OCN.







Just to let them know we are here and that we need to get these issue resolved.


----------



## Willhemmens

Just sat on the phone to a guy from Gigabyte. Told him about our issues. Basically he's going to inform the Bios guys and see if he will be able to send me a new version. He said to expect a new bios to be out in about a week.


----------



## Evil Penguin

That's good. 
The weird voltage fluctuations aren't really affecting my overclock, but would be nice if fixed.


----------



## cdoublejj

so no good news on the god awful vdroop huh. glad i didn't buy the board ahead of time yet. Otherwise it would be the foxconn Destroyer all over again.


----------



## Willhemmens

Foxconn Destroyer. I remember that board and its problems.


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14201979*
> 0.016V is all the droop I see. That's at 4.0GHz. 1.392V idle, 1.376V load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to bump it up a notch now to get it benchmark-stable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Interesting.. At stock speed (3.4GHz 1.376V in the BIOS) the difference is higher. From 1.344V load to 1.376 idle.


Thanks







. at least that would put me into ease. my 990xa also have the same config so i was hoping it was similar. + rep.


----------



## InsaneCB

One question: Any of this motherboard, have uefi bios ?


----------



## crossy82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *InsaneCB*


One question: Any of this motherboard, have uefi bios ?


No,they dont.But UEFI is a gimmick really,it still does the exact same job,just looks pretty.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *InsaneCB*


One question: Any of this motherboard, have uefi bios ?


"UEFI BIOS" is a mis-nomer


----------



## crossy82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14205541*
> Just sat on the phone to a guy from Gigabyte. Told him about our issues. Basically he's going to inform the Bios guys and see if he will be able to send me a new version. He said to expect a new bios to be out in about a week.


I hope it works,otherwise its looking more and more like a hardware issueI really want my 990FXA-UD3 or UD7,will need to paint the gold bits white though to match the rest of my build,not gonna happen until problems are fixed though.I dont want to have to buy Asus or another brand as they all look horrible.If Gigabyte cant fix this then i might have to get the ECS Black.


----------



## 8-Bit

Hey, Add me to the list. . . . Although my BRAND new 990FXA-UD5 is all fail with the temp sensor ATM. . . Works in bios so its a software issue, just can't get any program other then Easytune6 to read temp *(HWmonitor/AOD/OCCT/Core Temp)*

!!EDIT!!
Yes, Tried reinstalling them,
Yes ALL the programs. . 
YES I did uninstall them all before re installing.
I even tried a System restore to 24 Hours ago *(Although its now more like 36 hours ago as i did that 12 hours ago)*


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crossy82*


I hope it works,otherwise its looking more and more like a hardware issue







I really want my 990FXA-UD3 or UD7,will need to paint the gold bits white though to match the rest of my build,not gonna happen until problems are fixed though.I dont want to have to buy Asus or another brand as they all look horrible.If Gigabyte cant fix this then i might have to get the ECS Black.


thats gamble as ECS has been peddling garbage for years. you can also go Intel believe it or not being an AMD fan boy Intel keeps looking better and better recently. Didn't here about vdroop on the ud5 and ud7 intel boards.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*


thats gamble as ECS has been peddling garbage for years. you can also go Intel believe it or not being an AMD fan boy Intel keeps looking better and better recently. Didn't here about vdroop on the ud5 and ud7 intel boards.


Guys, you've seen that overclocker Chew or whatever overclock a BD on the UD7, pretty high PHII overclocks on the UD7, I think the vDroop issue is fine. If you lose more than .1GHZ from this board upgrading from an 890FX, than it starts to become a problem.


----------



## Willhemmens

Working on 4.3GHz.
Load temps between 39-42.


----------



## mxthunder

Nice load temps! What are your ambients? What did you have to set the vcore to in BIOS to get 4.3 stable? Any active cooling on the vrm area?
With my loop in 84*F temps, my cpu will load around 52C

I also have submitted a ticket to gigabyte support


----------



## crossy82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*


thats gamble as ECS has been peddling garbage for years. you can also go Intel believe it or not being an AMD fan boy Intel keeps looking better and better recently. Didn't here about vdroop on the ud5 and ud7 intel boards.


I'm not a fanboy,lol,just a cheapskate.







I may well go Intel yet,but never Sandy Bridge-'man can not live by multiplier overclocking alone'

Seriously though,i like the tweaking,and after my current set-up i want to finally have some fun


----------



## Sin0822

Hey for those of you who want to get rid of the vdroop i have a solution. I know some of you don't wanna wait for an official fix, whatever your reason may be, but Intersil PWMs are easy to mod. I have made mods for the UD7, of course only the experienced OCers should even attempt it, but its its actually pretty simple, easier than most mods.

Before I begin let me explain how its works, we are replacing a resistor that is connected to pin4(droopcontrol for NB and Core). its a simple mod, you replace the resistor already in place, and replace it with exactly 100K ohm of resistance, either through a fixed resistor, or a pot as shown in the picture.

If you do this mod, you cannot go back to having droop.

Honestly, the vdroop isn't going to hurt your OC, just set a higher voltage so that your load voltage is what you had on previous boards, or what it needs to be to maintain stability. A bit higher voltage at idle isn't going to hurt anything nor produce much heat, load voltage is really all that matters, of course please do respect voltage limits.

I take ZERO(0)(NO) responsibility for what you guys do, if you can't handle a soldering iron don't attempt. If you have doubts just set the voltage higher instead of doing this.

I am told that this vdroop is part of AM3+ official design guides, so any type of LLC or this mod is not how the CPU wants to be powered, but heck we are OCers, so enjoy.

*THE MOD SPOT FOR UD7 ARE NOT THE SAME as the UD5!!!! PLEASE DO NOT MIX UP!*

990FXA-UD7:









PS: the UD5 has a very similar vdroop mod possible too, but I need an upclose picture of its PWM, just like the one above.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

well this UD3 seems to be a great board, I haven't noticed any VRM problems, but my 790FX-UD5P had a more solid vcore. UD3 do overvolt by 0,03V the CPU when loaded.

My 790FX Overvolts vdimm by 0,06V and it only had 0,05V VDRAM increments. The readed value was wrong also, and it shows the same that was set in bios and that was 0,06v higher when measured w/ DMM.

900FXA-UD3 has 0,005 vdimm increments that's very nice, and readed, real, set voltage are very precise within 0,01v difference for DMM.

It seems that the new driver mosfets sux anyway, glad that I ordered the UD3.

XA doesn't have anyproblem also. (no drive mosfets, drmos?)


----------



## Sin0822

first off the DrMOS aren't really the problem, they actually provide more current, more efficiency, as well as smaller footprint and better transient response.

The droop was implemented on purpose, its not an accident, as far as I know the UD3 doesn't have it implimented like the UD5 and the UD7 do. These boards use new PWMs that control the VRM, and that will cause the voltage to act differently board to board.

people need to realize the PWM regulates and decides the output voltage, not the FETs. The FETs are tools of the PWM.

BTW what points do you measure with the DMM? (which points do you use for the ground and power)


----------



## crossy82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14214985*
> Hey for those of you who want to get rid of the vdroop i have a solution. I know some of you don't wanna wait for an official fix, whatever your reason may be, but Intersil PWMs are easy to mod. I have made mods for the UD7, of course only the experienced OCers should even attempt it, but its its actually pretty simple, easier than most mods.
> 
> Before I begin let me explain how its works, we are replacing a resistor that is connected to pin4(droopcontrol for NB and Core). its a simple mod, you replace the resistor already in place, and replace it with exactly 100K ohm of resistance, either through a fixed resistor, or a pot as shown in the picture.
> 
> If you do this mod, you cannot go back to having droop.
> 
> Honestly, the vdroop isn't going to hurt your OC, just set a higher voltage so that your load voltage is what you had on previous boards, or what it needs to be to maintain stability. A bit higher voltage at idle isn't going to hurt anything nor produce much heat, load voltage is really all that matters, of course please do respect voltage limits.
> 
> I take ZERO(0)(NO) responsibility for what you guys do, if you can't handle a soldering iron don't attempt. If you have doubts just set the voltage higher instead of doing this.
> 
> I am told that this vdroop is part of AM3+ official design guides, so any type of LLC or this mod is not how the CPU wants to be powered, but heck we are OCers, so enjoy.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> This is all well and good,but users should'nt have to buy a motherboard and then mod it to work as expected.Also do you work for Gigabyte?If so will a bios mod fix it?and if thats how it is supposed to be,why is that?are you saying Bulldozer is not affected by this?
> 
> Also why have no other manafacturers implemented this?It does'nt make any sense at all.Why does Bulldozer require a seemingly random v-droop/v-boost?And how are different boards calculating different amounts with the same CPU's?
> 
> Also not being rude but i think you definately work fore Gigabyte and are just trying to prevent damage to the companies reputation.What you have said makes no sense and i noticed that when i posted these questions before editing you suddenly vanished from the users bar below with no answer,even though you have been in this thread for ages as i saw you listed as currently active user.
> 
> If what you say has any weight,could you explain why only Gigabyte has taken this approach and how it will benefit users.Also you state in one post that Gigabyte are working on a fix,lol,but another post says it was intended as a feature,lol,this seems very contradictive,if it was'nt broken why would Gigabyte be trying to fix it?
Click to expand...


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14216464*
> first off the DrMOS aren't really the problem, they actually provide more current, more efficiency, as well as smaller footprint and better transient response.
> 
> The droop was implemented on purpose, its not an accident, as far as I know the UD3 doesn't have it implimented like the UD5 and the UD7 do. These boards use new PWMs that control the VRM, and that will cause the voltage to act differently board to board.
> 
> people need to realize the PWM regulates and decides the output voltage, not the FETs. The FETs are tools of the PWM.
> 
> BTW what points do you measure with the DMM? (which points do you use for the ground and power)


I've heard about some drmos beeing blowed around easily.

anyway, for ground I usually use any black wire output from PSU Molex.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14212224*
> Nice load temps! What are your ambients? What did you have to set the vcore to in BIOS to get 4.3 stable? Any active cooling on the vrm area?
> With my loop in 84*F temps, my cpu will load around 52C
> 
> I also have submitted a ticket to gigabyte support


Ambient is around 20'c. I have 1.575 set in the bios, 1.475v under load. I do have a little AMD stock cooler fan blowing over the NB/VRM area. Surprised by the heat they are out putting, about the same to more than the 790X board was putting out. I'm beginning to think Gigabyte boards aren't quite what they used too be. Lets hope its sorted out.










That was just now, 4.3 still needs some tweaking, 4.2GHz is pretty solid though. 2.8GHz CPU-NB and 1600 7-7-7-24 memory.


----------



## mxthunder

Nice setup. I am running 3ghz NB with 1.25V, 7 7 7 20 33 1T 1333mhz memory.

I agree, the PWM area gets extremely HOT. Way hotter than my cheap ass 4 phase GD70 ever did. (measuring with infrared thermometer, the vrms are reaching 70+C under load.)

Im debating on returning this dam board to newegg stating that the vreg sucks on it and getting my money back and pulling the GD70 out of the drawer for a few more months until I find a worthy replacement.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crossy82*


This is all well and good,but users should'nt have to buy a motherboard and then mod it to work as expected.Also do you work for Gigabyte?If so will a bios mod fix it?and if thats how it is supposed to be,why is that?are you saying Bulldozer is not affected by this?

Also why have no other manafacturers implemented this?It does'nt make any sense at all.Why does Bulldozer require a seemingly random v-droop/v-boost?And how are different boards calculating different amounts with the same CPU's?

Also not being rude but i think you definately work fore Gigabyte and are just trying to prevent damage to the companies reputation.What you have said makes no sense and i noticed that when i posted these questions before editing you suddenly vanished from the users bar below with no answer,even though you have been in this thread for ages as i saw you listed as currently active user.

If what you say has any weight,could you explain why only Gigabyte has taken this approach and how it will benefit users.Also you state in one post that Gigabyte are working on a fix,lol,but another post says it was intended as a feature,lol,this seems very contradictive,if it was'nt broken why would Gigabyte be trying to fix it?


First off i do resent every part of your comment, don't be a jerk for no reason. I have been a member of this forum for very long and have earned my reputation points, go through my user history if you'd like , no i don't work for them. If i did work for them id have it in my user title. What i do is review their motherboards when they ask me to take a look at them, and then i post a review and help users, like I am trying to do in this thread. If you don't believe me its fine, i really could care less.

i did show GB this thread, and took it to the attention of HQ, and that is when I got their official response, you can read it in the gigabtye.uk forums.

I go out of my way to give the extreme ocers a way to deal with the vdroop, be appreciative becuase i didn't have to show people that mod, and then feel bad when they break their board, Or get GB asking me why in the hell i recommended that people solder stuff to their boards.

*I have no idea what GB is doing about this issue, and thus i don't feel comfortable posting as talking as if I represent them.*

On top of that I sometimes edit things I say becuase I don't wanna go and say something that is totally not true and is just my hunch.

if i did work for GB, and posted on these forums analymously as you are saying, then believe me, *id read over ever post I made 10 times before posting and never edit any of my posts becuase i knew everything I said was true and whatever companies view, do you understand*









I don't represent any company, if I did you would never catch me in the Intel section recommending an Asus board in the same price range along with a recommendation for a GB board. I make my judgments based on facts that i have seen. I have owned many brand boards through many years, and believe me GB wasn't at the top of my list until recently, ASUS owned for a long time.

As to why other companies haven't implemented it, i am pretty sure ASUS did, but they also have LLC available in their BIOS.

*I think* that GB didn't have vdroop implemented before becuase it wasn't in the spec, but now that it is they are implementing vdroop. The only change apart from the PWM(that controls the droop) is the DrMOS, and one thing about the DrMOS, they are used on almost all intel boards, as intel themselves started recommending their use because they don't lack in anyway that low RDS(ON) N-Channel MOSFETs do. They only thing with them is that they are a MUCh smaller package that is putting out MORE current than GB's previous Low RDSon FETs, so you do the math, that is why they are all sinked. They are doing more work in a much smaller area.

one more thing, its really starting to bug me. PWM= Pulse Width Modulation, you don't call a DC/DC SMPS(Switch Mode power Supply) a PWM, its just not correct. VRM is a much more general term, as DC/DC SMPS is a VRM, a VRM doesn't have to be a DC/DC SMPS. BTW your computer's PSU is a AC/DC SMPS, and your motherboard has many DC/DC SMPS to convert 12v-5v to different voltages.


----------



## Sin0822

BTW i asked where you measured the ground becuase the ground is very important, the best place to measure is at the read point and then a ground closest to it.

For instance for the CPU, the legs of an output capacitor are the best for voltage read and ground.

not all grounds are equal. and it can make a big difference.


----------



## Tyreal

can you post this "beta bios" when you get it


----------



## crossy82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14220473*
> And not to be rude crossy82 but I think your a 14 year old kid with nothing better to do but complain and try to point fingers. Dion't ever accuse me again of working for GB and trying to ruin my credibility, i take it very personally. Hey if you don't want answers just let me know, itll save me some grief.
> 
> BTW i asked where you measured the ground becuase the ground is very important, the best place to measure is at the read point and then a ground closest to it.
> 
> For instance for the CPU, the legs of an output capacitor are the best for voltage read and ground.
> 
> not all grounds are equal.


My intention was not to be rude,i appologize if it seemed that way,you must understand the frustration of the users though.I have been on many a forum about this and there are no difinitive answers as such.I dont understand why Gigabyte are trying to fix it if it is implemented for a reason,if Bulldozer requires the v-droop/v-boost.I'm sorry for any offence i caused,was hoping you did work for them so that they could explain to users why it was implemented and why at the same time they are working on a fix.You have to agree that they have'nt been the best of help to users by what i have seen so far.And I am a fan of Gigabyte,wanted the UD3 so bad.I also was the same towards Asus for the heatsink issue on the CHIV.

I just hope Gigabyte have the decency to admit a problem,or find a fix,for there implementedfeature,thats all.


----------



## Tyreal

hope this "beta bios" has load line calibration adjustment via bios, this, for me is looking like a *hmmm should def wait* moment.

anyways the point of vdroop is to minimize spike voltage when cpu becomes unloaded, called overshoot. is this crazy vdroop preventing overshoot, at this point in time who knows.

seems lots of people are having negative results in regards to overclocking, and pushing the cpu to its limits, even if it is less that 100 Mhz, thats still a negative result, 990fx vs 790 or 890 lol


----------



## kzone75

So.. The Gigabyte GTS replied with the following statement: The GIGABYTE 990 series motherboards strictly follow the AMD AM3+ load line calibration design guide, so CPU V-core voltage will drop according to loading. Such calibrations are built into the platform to protect the hardware and prevent damage to the PC system.


----------



## Willhemmens

Interesting. When did you send in yours? I still haven't got a reply from the 13th. Also, OP hasn't been on in a couple days.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Interesting. When did you send in yours? I still haven't got a reply from the 13th. Also, OP hasn't been on in a couple days.


I sent it yesterday morning. Well, my morning. 6am Finland-time.


----------



## crossy82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


So.. The Gigabyte GTS replied with the following statement: The GIGABYTE 990 series motherboards strictly follow the AMD AM3+ load line calibration design guide, so CPU V-core voltage will drop according to loading. Such calibrations are built into the platform to protect the hardware and prevent damage to the PC system.


Did they say what there take on v-boost was?

Also it seem odd that people using the same mobo's and CPU combination are getting such different results.I'm not sure i believe Gigabyte on this,however maybe it will be fine with a Bulldozer,i'm defo gonna sut back and watch.Still miffed as to why no review site knew that it was implemented,and why Gigabyte have said they are trying to fix it,something does'nt sit right.

By the way is your UD3 affected by the problems at all?If so how bad?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *crossy82*


Did they say what there take on v-boost was?

Also it seem odd that people using the same mobo's and CPU combination are getting such different results.I'm not sure i believe Gigabyte on this,however maybe it will be fine with a Bulldozer,i'm defo gonna sut back and watch.Still miffed as to why no review site knew that it was implemented,and why Gigabyte have said they are trying to fix it,something does'nt sit right.

By the way is your UD3 affected by the problems at all?If so how bad?


Well, that's all they told me in the reply. Maybe it's just an answer they give everyone. 
I am running at 4.2GHz right now. Set the vcore to 1.440 in the BIOS. And it droops to 1.424. So it's not as bad as some of the other guys on here.


----------



## Benz

After careful consideration I've decided to give MSI 990FXA-GD65 a try. No vdroop on this board. OCCT shows 1.425v aswell as Crysis 2 everything maxed out


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crossy82;14224544*
> Did they say what there take on v-boost was?
> 
> Also it seem odd that people using the same mobo's and CPU combination are getting such different results.I'm not sure i believe Gigabyte on this,however maybe it will be fine with a Bulldozer,i'm defo gonna sut back and watch.Still miffed as to why no review site knew that it was implemented,and why Gigabyte have said they are trying to fix it,something does'nt sit right.
> 
> By the way is your UD3 affected by the problems at all?If so how bad?


ok man, i have a question, when did they say they are trying to fix it?

THey never told me that, and that is why i changed my previous post so much, b/c it just isn't something I know for sure.

I am sorry i don't work for GB, i but i told you why its implemented. I saw a post once, a picture of integrated vdroop for AM3+ GB boards, but I cannot find it anymore. Then i asked my GB contact and i was given that official response.

Also that guy is right, there is only 1 or 2 reasons to impliment vdroop, the first being to reduce transient overshoot during current steps. On Intel CPUs had 100Amp current steps from idle to load, and voltage had to change as well, but the transient overshoot could be a huge problem so they implemented a droop that would keep that max overshoot within safe limits.

The next reason is that when current is increased voltage needs to be decreased if they want their product to stay within TDP, right now their TDP is very high for bulldozer, and I think that without vdroop they will get too hot.

Review sites don't pick up on stuff b/c they do not test deep enough, they see the voltage is lower and call it a day at that, most reviewers really don't know much about voltage/circuitry/motherboards to even review a motherboard. It saddens me and that is why i review.

You know what ill do you guys even a bigger favor, I will show you guys oscilloscope shots before and after the mod, to see if ripple changes, and if noise changes, and if my OC changes.


----------



## sharder8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14112267*
> Please PM me your email for the F5B BIOS. It improves vDroop greatly.


Hey Lostintyme --

I'm trying to PM ya' . . . but I can't send PM's yet (for some reason). If you could send them, KarmaKiller can tell you how to get them to me.

Thanks,

Harder

YGPM, Thanks again!


----------



## Tyreal

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


You know what ill do you guys even a bigger favor, I will show you guys oscilloscope shots before and after the mod, to see if ripple changes, and if noise changes, and if my OC changes.


This, would be most excellent, proper reviews, in depth analyses, along with hopefully hard core tuned oc reviews is what i have been wishing for, for ever.... they do it on psu's, why not mobos.

hope to see some of your reviews soon!


----------



## crossy82

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


ok man, i have a question, when did they say they are trying to fix it?

THey never told me that, and that is why i changed my previous post so much, b/c it just isn't something I know for sure.

I am sorry i don't work for GB, i but i told you why its implemented. I saw a post once, a picture of integrated vdroop for AM3+ GB boards, but I cannot find it anymore. Then i asked my GB contact and i was given that official response.

Also that guy is right, there is only 1 or 2 reasons to impliment vdroop, the first being to reduce transient overshoot during current steps. On Intel CPUs had 100Amp current steps from idle to load, and voltage had to change as well, but the transient overshoot could be a huge problem so they implemented a droop that would keep that max overshoot within safe limits.

The next reason is that when current is increased voltage needs to be decreased if they want their product to stay within TDP, right now their TDP is very high for bulldozer, and I think that without vdroop they will get too hot.

Review sites don't pick up on stuff b/c they do not test deep enough, they see the voltage is lower and call it a day at that, most reviewers really don't know much about voltage/circuitry/motherboards to even review a motherboard. It saddens me and that is why i review.

You know what ill do you guys even a bigger favor, I will show you guys oscilloscope shots before and after the mod, to see if ripple changes, and if noise changes, and if my OC changes.


It seemed going by the various forums that they were implying it was a bios issue.However after some serious research last night,it now appears that it is a feature of Bulldozer.

I also found out that for some reason Gigabyte deliberatly did'nt enable LLC for Phenom processors for some reason.However LLC will be enabled for Bulldozer,going by this that would make Bulldozer problem free on these boards.This could certainly be good news to all owners of these boards,I myself will wait til i see a Bulldozer in one of these before deciding.I guess Gigabyte did'nt put too much effort into AM3 compatability,makes sense though now they will be phased out,no point spending valuable time fine tuning for a end of line CPU.

I wish Gigabyte had mentioned this on there site or actually taken the time to post this in a forum.They may have lost some customers to this by now,maybe they will gain some when the right tech is on this board,and the LLC enabled.


----------



## iSeries

Hi crossy82 - do you have any links to where you read LLC will be enabled in the BIOS for BD?


----------



## Sin0822

yea id like to see where you got that info as well, haha i searched pretty hard for it but couldn't find much.


----------



## crossy82

According to Gigabyte the reason for the droop and load is due to LLC, it's not enabled for AM3 CPU's for some reason and only becomes active for BD. No idea why Gigabyte have done this, as Asus have implemented this on their boards. Fortunately the 990XA UD3 doesn't suffer badly, or at least there aren't many threads about it, but the FXA UD5 and 7 are horrible to OC apparently and there're lots of threads about them not working well.

I was quite convinced I was going to get this board but looking at the LLC option lacking in the BIOS and the VDroop being all over the place I might get the EVO instead, even though it's a lot more expensive. The one important thing to note is that the VDroop is generally terrible with Hexacores. Quads seem to be relatively VDroop free. The UD 5/7 thread is full of anger, I'd be furious too if I spent so much and got such bad performance.
__________________
Posted by LIRANAN.Another member of OCN.

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1048912-official-gigabyte-ga-990xa-series-owners-13.html#post14236216

I trying to find a site i saw something simular on,will post link when found.I will also ask Liranan on where he obtained info from,i no it the XA not FXA he is refering to,but this could well be why the UD* boards are suffering aswell.It seems to be a common subject with all Gigabyte 990 boards.

Here is a snip-it from a chinese site,seems to indicate that AM3 is difficult for AM3+ to work with.

According to the grapevine, bulldozers FX series processors is likely to be the end of August or September will be released, and 9 Series motherboards in June will be one step ahead. Although these Socket AM3 + new motherboard socket interface is compatible with AM3 Phenom II, Athlon II processor, but this combination is difficult to accept. In fact, the motherboard manufacturers themselves are reluctant to advance large-scale promotion of new 9 series. Means in accordance with AMD's early release is probably inevitable, but shipments will not be many, largely symbolic in nature.

I will look for more that i found,not easy to do,lol,i was digging deep.


----------



## Liranan

I got that information from a link earlier in this thread in which a Gigabyte community helper was trying to get information on the VDroop. I seem to have been the only one who read those two threads but the guy said that he got confirmation from GA that this is the way the boards have been designed.

I don't understand why GA have done it like this, as ASUS have enabled LLC control even with current Phenom CPU's, and BD is still several months away.

Edit: Here is said thread. Absic spends quite a bit of time trying to ascertain the information I posted. He claims it's a bios issue and not a hardware one, relating to the LLC. I agree with those who say GA are being lazy with their BIOS coding. I assume it's to encourage people to switch over to BD when they're released, which still doesn't look good for them. And they lack UEFI, something even ASROCK boards have.


----------



## iSeries

I've read the thread on the Gigabyte forum, and I've also added my 2p to it. It's common knowledge now that Gigabyte are sticking to their 'it's meant to do that' story. They don't specifically mention Bulldozer but they say that the design strictly follows AMD's guidelines for AM3+. How it will perform with a BD installed is anyone's guess. Maybe LLC will automatically kick in when a BD is installed, however Gigabyte certainly haven't come out and said this will be the case, and they also haven't said that LLC is not implemented for AM3 CPU's (although thats clearly true lol).

But yeah, implementing something like this without offering LLC control is pretty bad.


----------



## stasio

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*


Anyone have a new bios Past F5 B? Sorry for grammar Using voice recognition software


Hey guys,he ask BIOS F5b for his board UD5,not UD7.
what is normal,because latest is F4.
For UD7,latest is F4b.....so must come F4 first. 
Look at his sig.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stasio*


Hey guys,he ask BIOS F5b for his board UD5,not UD7.
what is normal,because latest is F4.
For UD7,latest is F4b.....so must come F4 first. 
Look at his sig.


No, the latest is F5B, but it's not on the website. Send me a PM for it.


----------



## stasio

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*


No, the latest is F5B, but it's not on the website. Send me a PM for it.


For which board?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


Hey for those of you who want to get rid of the vdroop i have a solution. I know some of you don't wanna wait for an official fix, whatever your reason may be, but Intersil PWMs are easy to mod. I have made mods for the UD7, of course only the experienced OCers should even attempt it, but its its actually pretty simple, easier than most mods.

Before I begin let me explain how its works, we are replacing a resistor that is connected to pin4(droopcontrol for NB and Core). its a simple mod, you replace the resistor already in place, and replace it with exactly 100K ohm of resistance, either through a fixed resistor, or a pot as shown in the picture.

If you do this mod, you cannot go back to having droop.

Honestly, the vdroop isn't going to hurt your OC, just set a higher voltage so that your load voltage is what you had on previous boards, or what it needs to be to maintain stability. A bit higher voltage at idle isn't going to hurt anything nor produce much heat, load voltage is really all that matters, of course please do respect voltage limits.

I take ZERO(0)(NO) responsibility for what you guys do, if you can't handle a soldering iron don't attempt. If you have doubts just set the voltage higher instead of doing this.

I am told that this vdroop is part of AM3+ official design guides, so any type of LLC or this mod is not how the CPU wants to be powered, but heck we are OCers, so enjoy.

*THE MOD SPOT FOR UD7 ARE NOT THE SAME as the UD5!!!! PLEASE DO NOT MIX UP!*

990FXA-UD7:









PS: the UD5 has a very similar vdroop mod possible too, but I need an upclose picture of its PWM, just like the one above.



If you have one for the UD5 then i may very well buy one. weather or not the vdroop hurts or not i don't care I want a solid board so the vdroop still isn't acceptable. TBH i wish ASUS had a board with the same layout having a pci at the bottom so i can keep my Xonar and run CFX (each card taking 2 slots).

Think i'm still gonna wait may go get a socket fm1 or even intel.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *stasio*


for which board?


990fxa-ud5


----------



## Willhemmens

I wouldn't say they are terrible to overclock on, pretty similar, slightly better than my 790X. Still getting stable overclocks, just the voltages at idle are higher than they should be.


----------



## Lordred

Just to show ya guys, i've been doing some OCing with this board. I'm liking it.

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1535140









http://3dmark.com/3dm11/1535238


----------



## Sin0822

yea I am getting the same clocks with the memory and CPU, i am just using a higher vcore and calculating its drop. This system is pretty nice.


----------



## cdoublejj

whats F5B fix?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj;14248632*
> whats F5B fix?


It's a BIOS.


----------



## Sin0822

yea its a bit wider, but should pose as no problem.

And yea sorry guys, i thought i read over at the GB UK forums some guy said he had the UD7 F5B BIOS, but i guess it was just for the UD5! hahah

Anyways I just finished all my testing on the F4B, not a bad BIOS. I had minimal BIOS problems, of course the voltage drop was there, but i compensated for it







, high idle vcore didnt' bother my CPU at all, temps under load were under 55C:

Idle:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

load:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

What a great board, 300blck was easy as hell, max cpu clock is 4400 with the same vcore as above, and 4200/1920 on the ram is my Stable OC using a 1100T and Corsair 2133mhz 9,10,9,27 T2 rated RAM.

I will have a full review up asap, and Ill make sure to link it to you guys in this thread.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14249275*
> It's a BIOS.


yes i know whats it fix? you know like what bugs did it correct?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*


yes i know whats it fix? you know like what bugs did it correct?


For me, some vDroop, probably some other things too.


----------



## kzone75

A little confuzzled I am. Could RAM have anything to do with not being able to get into BIOS on this UD3? I have 2x2GB of Kingston HyperX and today I have had A LOT of problems with getting into the BIOS. Resetting the BIOS wouldn't change a thing (actually it didn't reset anything at all).. And it bsod'd when the windows logo started to appear. Thus meaning that it rebooted and wanted to do a system repair, (keyboard wouldn't work to select anything else) which of course failed. Tried to run memtest but again, I couldn't select to boot from cd or the USB-thingy.








I've tried 1 stick only. No change there. So I ended up going to town to fetch a 4GB stick of Apacer 1333MHz 9cl. Seems to be working fine now (the keyboard works even), BUT everytime I reboot it says something about it had to reset to default settings, because the overclock was unstable. I find that funny because I run at stock settings now..









Should I try to download the F2 BIOS again? Maybe it's corrupt somehow..
btw The RAM that I have are not on the compatibility list for this board. But that doesn't explain why it kinda worked before..

(For the 1st time ever I will have to apologize for any spelling errors and/or my english







)


----------



## deathskater

Hello I own a 990fxa-ud3 yeah I just remembered gota update my system will do after I post this so back on topic.. I just put together this system I noticed the NB runs rather hot iddle about 58 C ATM is this normal for these boards NB frequency is only set to 2400 at stock voltage.

This has probably been discussed before but i'm just not gona go through 50ish pages







Response will be gladly apreciated


----------



## deathskater

Just proof I have the board and would be nice to join if possible


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14256887*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A little confuzzled I am. Could RAM have anything to do with not being able to get into BIOS on this UD3? I have 2x2GB of Kingston HyperX and today I have had A LOT of problems with getting into the BIOS. Resetting the BIOS wouldn't change a thing (actually it didn't reset anything at all).. And it bsod'd when the windows logo started to appear. Thus meaning that it rebooted and wanted to do a system repair, (keyboard wouldn't work to select anything else) which of course failed. Tried to run memtest but again, I couldn't select to boot from cd or the USB-thingy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've tried 1 stick only. No change there. So I ended up going to town to fetch a 4GB stick of Apacer 1333MHz 9cl. Seems to be working fine now (the keyboard works even), BUT everytime I reboot it says something about it had to reset to default settings, because the overclock was unstable. I find that funny because I run at stock settings now..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should I try to download the F2 BIOS again? Maybe it's corrupt somehow..
> btw The RAM that I have are not on the compatibility list for this board. But that doesn't explain why it kinda worked before..
> 
> (For the 1st time ever I will have to apologize for any spelling errors and/or my english
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I had the issue where it took me back to default, fixed with F5B bios, please PM me for it


----------



## moonmanas

Hi im thinking of getting the UD5 AM3+ only prob is im not sure if my newish sound card will slot in ok it's the Xonar DX this http://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-xonar-dx-xd-71-pci-e-soundcard-low-profile

Thanks for any help


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathskater;14257350*
> Hello I own a 990fxa-ud3 yeah I just remembered gota update my system will do after I post this so back on topic.. I just put together this system I noticed the NB runs rather hot iddle about 58 C ATM is this normal for these boards NB frequency is only set to 2400 at stock voltage.
> 
> This has probably been discussed before but i'm just not gona go through 50ish pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Response will be gladly apreciated


Sounds a bit high on idle. Have you tried pushing down the heatsink? I have around 45C. Goes up to about 60 under load.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas;14261404*
> Hi im thinking of getting the UD5 AM3+ only prob is im not sure if my newish sound card will slot in ok it's the Xonar DX this http://www.scan.co.uk/products/asus-xonar-dx-xd-71-pci-e-soundcard-low-profile
> 
> Thanks for any help


Well, I don't think it will fit in the PCI-EX1 slot. Northbridge heatsink seems to be in the way. But I suppose you can put it one of the other PCI-EX slot.


----------



## mxthunder

first bit of custom work tonight

cut temps in half for the heatsink, the inductors, etc. Didnt help with vdroop, but makes me feel better.


----------



## Sin0822

why dont you just do the mod?

BTW yea the VRm heatsink gets very hot, i think its because of the chip-set being there as well adding a lot of heat. Its not connected by heatpipe, instead through direct contact.


----------



## Willhemmens

I'd do the mod once I know Gigabyte won't be doing anything to fix it. Time to bring out some sub zero cooling. Screen shots will be up later.

On another note, six days since I opened a support ticket on GGTS, still no reply.


----------



## mxthunder

All I got back from GGTS was a one liner that "its supposed to be that way"


----------



## Willhemmens

Well I've explained that because of the issue, my CPU is not stable. This is a problem with the motherboard and if it isn't fixed I will be getting a complete refund on the motherboard.


----------



## Sin0822

ok well i did the mod and now i can report, scope shots are coming soon.

Anyways So when you do the mod, you set a resistor either at
0K(standard)(Vcore droop on, CPUNB droop off)
25K(Vcore droop on, CPUNB droop off)
75K(Vcore droop off, CPUNB droop off)
100K(Vcore droop off, CPUNB droop off)

That explains why at stock the CPUNB voltage rises under load.

Anyways so when i do the mod, i set lets say 1.40v and the automatically it sets (75mv higher) 1.475v on boot, and then 1.50v under load.

That offset is controlled by the FB/COMP voltage feedback error loop or through the BIOS, which is what they control through the BIOS and how LLC is controlled on Intel systems. So they can control LLC through that.

Anyways so that is how it is with my mod done.

if someone wants to know how to do it for the UD5 let me know. 1 more thing, this mod is excellent for subzero OC!!!


----------



## mxthunder

did some some 0 testing tonight myself. Got my CPU up to 4.5ghz. (would not go higher even with vcore set > 1.7V)

results are good, crysis fps went up by almost 10 ( CPU bottlenecking my 580 badly)


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14275579*


How are you cooling your CPU, just a bucket of ice or what?


----------



## Evil Penguin

We AMD enthusiasts need a Orochi/Bulldozer/K15 so very badly.


----------



## sharder8

I'll be firing up my "Challenge" system tomorrow and loading Win 7 (64bit). More details of the system will follow. Will do the F5B first things first. Will play with it for a bit and see where we go from there.









Harder


----------



## Lostintyme

I found my old NZXT M59 mid tower the other day, the first case I ever used. Best thing? All my stuff still fits into it. Can't wait to throw all this stuff in such a small case and still have good wire management, I've gotten used to working with the Xigmatek Elysium(which was built around the SR2)


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;14275824*
> We AMD enthusiasts need a Orochi/Bulldozer/K15 so very badly.


^ Definitely. My old, abused 965 (previous owner had it under LN2 many a time), has degraded badly over the past year. Requiring, with this Vdroop, 1.63V at idle to stay above 4 Ghz. Droops to 1.54 under full load. At this point, I'm hoping she makes it until Zambezi arrives. :/

Where in it's prime, she'd hit upwards of 4.28 Ghz (Super Pi stable) with the same Vcore (under air back then). Now she won't touch 4.1 Ghz even for a CPUz validation. I'm getting much better ram oc's on this board vs. my old MSi though. I will give it that.










http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1915732


----------



## Evil Penguin

My 1090T is still running like a semi-retired champ, but performance is lacking.
4GHz stable with 1.45v.


----------



## iSeries

@ Sin0822 - I'd be very interested how to do the mod on the UD5!


----------



## consumer

I'd buy one of these but gigabye support is crap, think i'll wait until revisions.


----------



## Sin0822

Consumer- FYI these boards are solid as hell, apart from the vdroop there aren't many bugs at all, other than the heatsinks gets a bit warm when OCing.
anyways here are scopes shots of vdroop VS no Vdroop mod. Its going to go before and then after, and these two tests, IBT and Vantage are the most heavy ripple loading, probabaly becuase of some huge current steps. ussually we see these large transients in vantage after load is done with, and that is exactly what you are seeing. First No mod, then Mod. After Vantage we have IBT.

Vpp=Ripple FYI the division per square in the background is shown in the upper right hand corner.
Vantage Before MOD:








Vantage After MOD:









IBT Before MOD:








IBT After MOD:









All in all ripple is still superb even after the mod. As these are the heaviest transients, the board easily handles the load, when we start going above 150mv that is the trouble area.

Baseline in BIOS is about 20mv Vpp.

Windows is about 30-40 durring boot.

Wprime is about 50.

Superpi is 20-30 becuase of odd transient load, otherwise around baseline.

Full story in my review which is coming soon.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop;14276102*
> Where in it's prime, she'd hit upwards of 4.28 Ghz (Super Pi stable) with the same Vcore (under air back then). Now she won't touch 4.1 Ghz even for a CPUz validation. I'm getting much better ram oc's on this board vs. my old MSi though. I will give it that.


I had a golden X2 555 last year, unlocked at stock volts AND OC'd to 4.1, wasn't stable with the OC but was stable enough for a CPU-Z validation.


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14277363*
> Full story in my review which is coming soon.


Can't wait for that Sin. Btw, do you still need close up shots of the UD5's PWM? I could possibly do a tear down if you do, and send you the pics.


----------



## Willhemmens

Sin0822, good to hear someone with proper testing kit taking a look at the boards. I'm glad to hear they are indeed as solid as I had hoped.
So here's my result.










Was able to boot into Windows at 5GHz! Much much higher than I could with my 790X board. Sadly I wasn't able to get any real high suicide runs because AMD Overdrive wouldn't let me change my multiplier. I expect to see scores of 5.4GHz and higher. Also, I got some pretty kick ass Wprime scores but the lack of AOD really held me back.


----------



## Benz

Insane!


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14279550*
> Sin0822, good to hear someone with proper testing kit taking a look at the boards. I'm glad to hear they are indeed as solid as I had hoped.
> So here's my result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was able to boot into Windows at 5GHz! Much much higher than I could with my 790X board. Sadly I wasn't able to get any real high suicide runs because AMD Overdrive wouldn't let me change my multiplier. I expect to see scores of 5.4GHz and higher. Also, I got some pretty kick ass Wprime scores but the lack of AOD really held me back.


Really? OD worked fine for me?

Anyways yea man, i wish someone else would have paid for the scope, but i felt like its time for me to start showing people theories i talk about. I hope people take interest or its just a waste of hundreds of dollars lol.

You have excellent results BTW, nice little SS!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop;14277443*
> Can't wait for that Sin. Btw, do you still need close up shots of the UD5's PWM? I could possibly do a tear down if you do, and send you the pics.


Thanks man, yea review will be up soon. yea if you have them that would be great, as i could show the many UD5 owners how to complete the modification.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14285772*
> Really? OD worked fine for me?
> 
> Anyways yea man, i wish someone else would have paid for the scope, but i felt like its time for me to start showing people theories i talk about. I hope people take interest or its just a waste of hundreds of dollars lol.
> 
> You have excellent results BTW, nice little SS!


What version of AOD are you running? Also, do you have to play around with the turbo settings? With AOD I'd be able to get some real nice scores, I'm hoping.

Them scopes are great bits of kit. What you should do is start doing proper reviews and have manufacturers send you the hardware for free, should make some money back then, hopefully. Having a scope is an advantage over a lot of reviewers, just got to explain to people what the results mean. I'd quite like to get in to the review scene.

I'm pretty happy with the SS although it doesn't seem to get as cold as she used too.


----------



## Sin0822

i already have gigabyte sending me stuff, check one of the reviews in my sig. i just got the scope to play with, i find that very few have scopes, and those that do don't know how to use them: http://www.overclockers.com/load-line-calibration/

there are so many problems with the time scale, the mv/div, as well as the trigger he seems to have not used.

Apart from that i find most reviewers think they can measure ripple when the probe is set to measure dc voltage LOL that is a funny one. The correct way is to set it to AC coupling, as the ripple we want is the AC part of the DC output.

I am making a website though, but still posting my review in forums. I have started to do video reviews too.


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14285772*
> Thanks man, yea review will be up soon. yea if you have them that would be great, as i could show the many UD5 owners how to complete the modification.


Np at all. I'll pm you with the pics on Sunday when I do the tear down. That's the earliest I'll have time to do it, the schedules packed pretty tight until then.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14289212*
> i already have gigabyte sending me stuff, check one of the reviews in my sig. i just got the scope to play with, i find that very few have scopes, and those that do don't know how to use them: http://www.overclockers.com/load-line-calibration/
> 
> there are so many problems with the time scale, the mv/div, as well as the trigger he seems to have not used.
> 
> Apart from that i find most reviewers think they can measure ripple when the probe is set to measure dc voltage LOL that is a funny one. The correct way is to set it to AC coupling, as the ripple we want is the AC part of the DC output.
> 
> I am making a website though, but still posting my review in forums. I have started to do video reviews too.


Indeed and a scope is a very good way of really finding how robust and precise the power circuitry is. I look forward to seeing your site up. Let me know if you want a hand with anything.

Any idea about the AMD Overdrive stuff?


----------



## Sin0822

Ijust died it from the net from and. Along with the latest et6. I also enabled manual control over each core in biosphere under advanced biosphere setting


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14292652*
> Ijust died it from the net from and. Along with the latest et6. I also enabled manual control over each core in biosphere under advanced biosphere setting


I see. I'l have another go.

On another note, I finally got a reply from Gigabyte. Gave me the same rubbish you guys have been getting. I've written a fairly sharp reply saying that basically, the reply was useless, which it was and that if none of the older CPU's are stable in the board, they aren't supported. I asked if the issue will be permanent or if there will be a fix out soon (Within a month).

Edit: EasyTune works. May go for some wPrime scores tomorrow.


----------



## musicman1953

Hi,
just got myself a GA-990FXA-UD3.
Put my Phenom II X2 560BE in, not overclocked at first...
CPU volts 1.340v no load.
Under load cpu volts drop to 1.322v.
Put the multiplier up to 18X to give an overclock of 3.6GHz, volts dropped to same as before.
Left multiplier at 18x, upped cpu volts to 1.376v, no load =1.376v nothin more, nothin less....
under load it drops to 1.360v.
Even tho in the bios I set the ram volts to 1.500(1.5v), everywhere else it shows as 1.472v.
Bios the board came with was F2


----------



## Sin0822

yea the UD3 seems not have to have the same vdroop as the UD5 and UD7.


----------



## Willhemmens

My sharp-ish reply turned up results!!

Attached is the f4c BIOS.

For the UD7 only. Haven't tested yet but I'm about too.

Wonder if I'm one of/the first to get it.

Edit: before testing it, it seems to be a bit strange. On reboot a most of the drivers needed to reinstall from Win update. Resolution was all small and such.


----------



## mxthunder

the question is, do I want to try this and potentially ruin the start to my weekend? or make it great by fixing my problems?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


the question is, do I want to try this and potentially ruin the start to my weekend? or make it great by fixing my problems?


Well after some testing, with the old BOIS 1.6v under load would give 1.475v, now its 1.536 under load which is indeed better. Apart from that though, I didn't notice any other difference.


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


Well after some testing, with the old BOIS 1.6v under load would give 1.475v, now its 1.536 under load which is indeed better. Apart from that though, I didn't notice any other difference.


I get about the same Vdroop with the F3 bios as you're getting with the F4C, I have the F4 off of their site. I just haven't gotten around to flashing it yet. Which bios were you using prior to?


----------



## mxthunder

The F4c bios he has is for the UD7 and is different than the F4 for the UD5


----------



## Benz

Just a quick question.

Is UD3 capable of running G.Skill F3-12800CL7D-4GBXM on 1600MHz with Phenom II X3 720?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14316628*
> Just a quick question.
> 
> Is UD3 capable of running G.Skill F3-12800CL7D-4GBXM on 1600MHz with Phenom II X3 720?


Yes, well, it should be able to as the UD5 does it fine.


----------



## LBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14310568*
> My sharp-ish reply turned up results!!
> 
> Attached is the f4c BIOS.
> 
> For the UD7 only. Haven't tested yet but I'm about too.
> 
> Wonder if I'm one of/the first to get it.
> 
> Edit: before testing it, it seems to be a bit strange. On reboot a most of the drivers needed to reinstall from Win update. Resolution was all small and such.


Thanks for uploading the bios. Will do some testing later today.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14316841*
> Yes, well, it should be able to as the UD5 does it fine.


My 990FXA-GD65 don't like my RAM working on 1600MHz. So you were right when you said Asus or Gigabyte only. Gonna take it back and ask for refund on Monday.


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14313665*
> The F4c bios he has is for the UD7 and is different than the F4 for the UD5


Thanks







, but I was wondering if there was a corresponding F4c bios in the works for the UD5. Even though the nomenclature is the same, I know they use different a bios.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14317963*
> My 990FXA-GD65 don't like my RAM working on 1600MHz. So you were right when you said Asus or Gigabyte only. Gonna take it back and ask for refund on Monday.


Hmmm, mines running at 1744 Mhz @ 6-6-6-17 (1T) without any problem. Compatibility issue with your sticks possibly?


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop;14318289*
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I was wondering if there was a corresponding F4c bios in the works for the UD5. Even though the nomenclature is the same, I know they use different a bios.
> 
> Hmmm, mines running at 1744 Mhz @ 6-6-6-17 (1T) without any problem. Compatibility issue with your sticks possibly?


No man I've tried a dozen of RAM sticks 1600MHz they all can't.

Can someone please post his screenshot of his UD3 and his RAM working on 1600MHz so I can shove this to the MSI right to their faces?


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14318413*
> No man I've tried a dozen of RAM sticks 1600MHz they all can't.
> 
> Can someone please post his screenshot of his UD3 and his RAM working on 1600MHz so I can shove this to the MSI right to their faces?


Oh, well that sucks. May hap a bad nb on the board, that's a good thought to ask of others with the same board. If I see anyone with a UD3 I'll ask them to pm you. Hopefully you find your answer, good luck


----------



## Benz

Thanks.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


The F4c bios he has is for the UD7 and is different than the F4 for the UD5


I haven't seen the F4c BIOS for the UD7... I'm running the F4b. Didi I miss something?

~fidof650


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LBear*


Thanks for uploading the bios. Will do some testing later today.


Let me know how it goes.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fidof650*


I haven't seen the F4c BIOS for the UD7... I'm running the F4b. Didi I miss something?

~fidof650


See my post.


----------



## Sin0822

yea i have the F4C BIOS as well, i have had it for a week about, but i haven;'t had time to try it with all this VRm testing i just did, ill test it out.


----------



## heshere2001

Hey guys,

I'm interested in a UD5 or UD7.

Long story short its currently the only board that supports 1866 ram out of the box.

Given the current issues of VDroop and anything else I may have missed in the last few pages, is it still a good buy?

I'm aiming more at the UD5 as I won't be using all those expansion slots on the 7.

Proposed build:
AMD Bulldozer
2x Msi Lightning R6970
Corsair Vengeance 1866 8Gbs

etc.


----------



## Sin0822

yea they are solid boards. i have one here, and I have done so much testing on it, far past what any board should take, needless to say all the things i did to this board it takes. Strong VRM, no issues with that. Hours and hours of 1.63v load going into a 1100T with no cooling other than the stock cooler, and its still going strong. id have to take a picture to tell you what i have done to this board, but its one of the best built boards i have ever dealt with.

Vdroop is not much of an issue, with the latest BIOS it improves vdroop a bit, enough to make it tolerable, and all you gotta do is find out how much it droops and set eh voltage that much higher. When the vdroop mod I did, i found that I still needed the same load vcore as with vdroop. Also with vdroop i had much better ripple control.


----------



## Sin0822

do you guys understand stuff like this, when i make pictures like this for my reviews?:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


do you guys understand stuff like this, when i make pictures like this for my reviews?:


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Yes, looks awesome, I should put one of these in my next mobo review.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14330120*
> do you guys understand stuff like this, when i make pictures like this for my reviews?:
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


This Rocks!!!

~fidof650


----------



## sharder8

Well, I've started the OC'ing and I've got some results to post . . .


























These were taken with Kingston 1600, but Tuesday, I'll try again with Corsair Dominator to see if I can get it higher and improve stability.









Harder


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14330120*
> do you guys understand stuff like this, when i make pictures like this for my reviews?:


I'd think most people should be able to. Seems nice and clear to me!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharder8;14335211*
> Well, I've started the OC'ing and I've got some results to post . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These were taken with Kingston 1600, but Tuesday, I'll try again with Corsair Dominator to see if I can get it higher and improve stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Harder


Your images have been resized, making them hard to read, any chance you want to re-upload them somewhere?


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop;14319267*
> Oh, well that sucks. *May hap a bad nb on the board*, that's a good thought to ask of others with the same board. If I see anyone with a UD3 I'll ask them to pm you. Hopefully you find your answer, good luck


My NB is fine, everything boots when I set my RAM to 1600MHz but there's an issue:

It's like this in Windows:

Installed memory (RAM): 4.00 GB (1.99 GB Usable)

I'm fairly confident this it because the board doesn't have a good Ram support.

I've tried this:

Reseated my heatsink
Reseated my CPU
Reseated my memory
Ran a Memory Test dozen of times
Tried different slots
Tried different combination
Reinstalled Windows 7 Ultimate x64
Tried Beta BIOS from MSI support (19.1B1)
Tried contacting MSI support. Got one answer and the son of a bit*h was gone...

So far nothing worked except setting my Ram to 1333MHz.

Edit: Just ordered a GA-990FXA-UD3 board, I'll get it within 2-3 days. I'm a happy camper.


----------



## Willhemmens

Got no issues running 6GB in Windows with my UD7, I'd be doing 8GB but one of my sticks seems to be messed up.


----------



## Benz

I hope that I won't have any issues with my new UD3. If it works with UD7 then it should also work with UD3, cause everything is the same except for the heatsink, PCI-e slots and 2 extra SATA3 ports right?


----------



## Sin0822

man what is with this spam stuff?

Thanks guys


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14337290*
> I hope that I won't have any issues with my new UD3. If it works with UD7 then it should also work with UD3, cause everything is the same except for the heatsink, PCI-e slots and 2 extra SATA3 ports right?


I'm not sure if there are any quality of component changes but I shouldn't think there are many.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14339362*
> man what is with this spam stuff?
> 
> Thanks guys


I know, I've got rid of it now. Never seen spam on OCN but recently I've seen quite multiple pieces.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14339415*
> I'm not sure if there are any quality of component changes but I shouldn't think there are many.
> quite multiple pieces.


That's what i thought.







Thanks for your answer.


----------



## sharder8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14336445*
> Your images have been resized, making them hard to read, any chance you want to re-upload them somewhere?


Let's see if this is any better . . .

Camera.sharder8.operaunite.com

2 folders, pick which one you want to view pic's in, System or Benchmarks.

If you want to see original size, click to show original size. You can also click to zoom in and get better clarity.

I've tried it and it's very clear for me.

Harder


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sharder8;14343663*
> Let's see if this is any better . . .
> 
> Camera.sharder8.operaunite.com
> 
> 2 folders, pick which one you want to view pic's in, System or Benchmarks.
> 
> If you want to see original size, click to show original size. You can also click to zoom in and get better clarity.
> 
> I've tried it and it's very clear for me.
> 
> Harder


Much better. Not a bad score there.







4.1GHz is good for air.


----------



## victorzamora

Just ordered my UD3 today. It'll be going in RedKnight along with a Hyper 212+ before the week is over. I can't wait to get it, it looks AWESOME!


----------



## Benz

I'll gonna get it tomorrow.


----------



## Willhemmens

About to whip out the old phase unit now. I'm thinking wPrime and Super PI scores. Hopefully I shall be back with a cool suicide run too.


----------



## rusky1

So I guess I'll ask again. Is gigabyte planning on releasing a GUI BIOS for this board? Or UEFI or whatever. Don't want to hear about what is the proper way of saying it, just want to know if this is in the works on not. I remember hearing them say that the board is ready for it but it didn't come with it.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rusky1;14356839*
> So I guess I'll ask again. Is gigabyte planning on releasing a GUI BIOS for this board? Or UEFI or whatever. Don't want to hear about what is the proper way of saying it, just want to know if this is in the works on not. I remember hearing them say that the board is ready for it but it didn't come with it.


Touch bios, a UEFI, will be coming.


----------



## Willhemmens

I wouldn't bet on it.


----------



## mxthunder

They still have not listed the F4C BIOS on the website for the UD7. Debating on giving it a try still


----------



## SirViP

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1925719

Add me please


----------



## Binski99

Anyone else have their UD5 arrive DOA? Just sent mine out for an RMA today. Hopefully I get a working one back.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14357651*
> They still have not listed the F4C BIOS on the website for the UD7. Debating on giving it a try still


b/c its not released. They prob wont release F4C, they will prob release F4 and then F5somthing.

are you sure it was DOA?


----------



## Binski99

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sin0822*


are you sure it was DOA?


Yeah I tried everything on a different machine and it was all fine. The memory is on their supported memory list and I know that the video card is good. It all came down to the motherboard. It would not post at all. I got it to work for a little bit but then It just stopped an refused to post even after clearing the CMOS. Newegg is usually pretty quick so hopefully I have a new one early next week.


----------



## Sin0822

yea that sucks man, i am sure next tiem it wont be DOA, if it is then maybe the CPu or somthing is dead? I have had bad RAm most of the time though, its so funny how RAm can go sour.


----------



## Benz

Guys, does someone have a new F3b BIOS for GA-990FXA-UD3? Please upload it if anybody has it.


----------



## Karossua

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Guys, does someone have a new F3b BIOS for GA-990FXA-UD3? Please upload it if anybody has it.


+1

It's very strange this motherboard, is working very stable but in IDE. Usb, raid and other features is not working well, bios is very weak..


----------



## Benz

Yeah, I see you noticed it too.


----------



## Benz

It seems that my UD3 doesn't like my 4th core at any voltage.







I guess I can live with that, I don't care because the Bulldozer/Zambezi will hit the shelves next month in September.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirViP;14358916*
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1925719
> 
> Add me please


Click this link and fill in the blanks to add yourself to the spreadsheet.

This link is also available in the instructions above the spreadsheet in the original post









~fidof650


----------



## bubz

Hello all, I just received my ga-990fxa-ud3 in the mail the other day and I'm having a bit of a problem with it and i hope someone here can help me out.

When I try to install the 64bit Raid drivers during the win 7 install it will not show them on the flash drive...I dont know whats going on. I can install the 32 bit drivers just fine and install windows but the 64 bit raid drivers will not show up.

So right now im running windows 32 bit trying to find a fix for this. My last MB worked just fine but this one is giving me a bit of a problem









I hope someone can help me out!

Thanks!


----------



## Karossua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bubz;14386254*
> Hello all, I just received my ga-990fxa-ud3 in the mail the other day and I'm having a bit of a problem with it and i hope someone here can help me out.
> 
> When I try to install the 64bit Raid drivers during the win 7 install it will not show them on the flash drive...I dont know whats going on. I can install the 32 bit drivers just fine and install windows but the 64 bit raid drivers will not show up.
> 
> So right now im running windows 32 bit trying to find a fix for this. My last MB worked just fine but this one is giving me a bit of a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope someone can help me out!
> 
> Thanks!


Well, it seems that you have the same problem as most of us.
I solved by installing a single SATA hard drive in IDE mode. Only in this way I could install Windows 7 SP1 64 bits.

Surely there is a solution, but did not have much time to find one.


----------



## bubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karossua;14389245*
> Well, it seems that you have the same problem as most of us.
> I solved by installing a single SATA hard drive in IDE mode. Only in this way I could install Windows 7 SP1 64 bits.
> 
> Surely there is a solution, but did not have much time to find one.


weird stuff!

I too was going to use one drive until I could find a solution for the 64 bit drivers but when I changed the bios from RAID to IDE it showed the drive in the post but when i was trying to install windows it said it couldn't find a drive. so for right now I am running win7 32bit (which i hate) until i can figure this out









Thanks for the reply.


----------



## bubz

Well I was able to install windows 7 64bit in IDE mode. I sent an email to gigabyte letting them know about the problem I am having and they replied with this.

Dear customer,

There has two different drivers on download, Raid and AHCI, make sure you have downlload the correct driver.
We attached the SB950 Raid driver for Win7 64bit, please extract it to a folder on the USB drive when loading OS to the Raid driver provide driver from the USB folder should works.
Note If system not using Raid setting make sure you have on chip SATA type set to AHCI and using the AHCI driver.

Best regards,

Gigabyte technical support team.

So i figured HEY! ill give it one more shot running RAID with the drivers thay attached to the email....still the same old BS.

So for right now I'm kinda thinking about returning this board for something else. I have never had this kind of problem installing RAID drivers.


----------



## _george

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Guys, does someone have a new F3b BIOS for GA-990FXA-UD3? Please upload it if anybody has it.


Here you go.

F3b bios for the UD3


----------



## Benz

Thanks man, you rock!


----------



## nyates

Hey Guys, my GA-990FXA-UD3 just shipped and I am super looking forward to installing it. Anyone know what the most stable and bug free bios is at this point? Also, any issues with setting up a SSD drive? It loaded up flawlessly on this old asus, just hoping I have as much luck with this one.


----------



## Benz

No issues with SSD drives, and the most stable BIOS is F3b, I had issues with F2 and AHCI mode (freezing on bootup) but when I flashed my board with F3b it was gone.

Oh and there's no vdroop on the latest UD3s. I forgot to say that.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyates;14403839*
> Hey Guys, my GA-990FXA-UD3 just shipped and I am super looking forward to installing it. Anyone know what the most stable and bug free bios is at this point? Also, any issues with setting up a SSD drive? It loaded up flawlessly on this old asus, just hoping I have as much luck with this one.


Running F3B w/ Thuban, elpida hyper and SF 1200 SSD flawlessly


----------



## BramSLI1

I have a question. I'm about to get in some water cooling parts from a new sponsor. The first is the XSPC Rasa 750 RS360. The other piece of the kit is a Danger Den GTX 560 water block. Look at my signature for system specs. My question is which order should my loop go in? Should I go from the Rad to the CPU first or to the GPU first? I know that my hardware isn't particularly high end but I'm not going to turn down free stuff. This is also so that I can prove to myself and my sponsor that I'm able to build a custom loop. This is my first "plunge" into custom water cooling. Please forgive the pun.


----------



## tw33k

Wrong thread. This should be in the Water Cooling section


----------



## BramSLI1

Sorry about that. I re-posted it where it belongs so it can be ignored or removed.


----------



## tw33k

You're more likely to get answers in that thread


----------



## Sin0822

you have a sponsor?


----------



## BramSLI1

Well it's sort of my work that's sponsoring me. My boss has been fairly impressed with my work and wants to see if I can install a custom loop.


----------



## Conner

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


Well it's sort of my work that's sponsoring me. My boss has been fairly impressed with my work and wants to see if I can install a custom loop.


Good luck, got a nice board if you do your colors right.


----------



## BramSLI1

I'm going with UV green tubing to go with the case. I think it should look pretty good once I've got it all installed.


----------



## Lindyrig

Worth the jump? I want one but not sure if its worth the money. 2 months ago I bought my 890FX. And I am forced to look at these every day. Is it worth grabbing a 990 for a bulldozer chip or should I just use my 890?


----------



## Shtopor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14404124*
> No issues with SSD drives, and the most stable BIOS is F3b, I had issues with F2 and AHCI mode (freezing on bootup) but when I flashed my board with F3b it was gone.
> 
> Oh and there's no vdroop on the latest UD3s. I forgot to say that.


Hi to all!
About Vdroop... There is no vdroop on the latest BIOSes or on the latest revisions of UD3s?
I'm very interested in this Mobo, but the voltage fluctuations stop me buying it...


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lindyrig;14453347*
> Worth the jump? I want one but not sure if its worth the money. 2 months ago I bought my 890FX. And I am forced to look at these every day. Is it worth grabbing a 990 for a bulldozer chip or should I just use my 890?


If you're wanting to get a Bulldozer CPU, you're going to have to get a 990FX board, unless your 890FX board has a black CPU socket, which it most likely doesn't.


----------



## Karossua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shtopor;14457865*
> Hi to all!
> About Vdroop... There is no vdroop on the latest BIOSes or on the latest revisions of UD3s?
> I'm very interested in this Mobo, but the voltage fluctuations stop me buying it...


Oh well, vdroops is present in the memory too, i have one set ADATA Low wattage and at this moment i cant adjust the default voltage.

And although the vdroop is not very high, if it is annoying not to get the desired value. Another bug I found is the USB port, they go off every few reboots. I think it's a bug in the bios and that will be repaired soon.

Beyond that, the motherboard is pretty good. F3b bios did not change anything, only solve the raid issue.


----------



## NoGuru

Looking for a used one. PM me if you are selling.


----------



## Zeek

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813128514

Little pirce drop. $144.99 @ Newegg.


----------



## Lindyrig

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


If you're wanting to get a Bulldozer CPU, you're going to have to get a 990FX board, unless your 890FX board has a black CPU socket, which it most likely doesn't.



Yes its black socket. AM3+ Sig rig you can tell by the bios version.


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lindyrig*


Yes its black socket. AM3+ Sig rig you can tell by the bios version.


You decide. You get support for the next 3 years with the 990FXA series, and after this initial round of BD chips your board will be outdated. Not to mention, you get power saving features and probably more overclockability with the new boards.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lostintyme*


You decide. You get support for the next 3 years with the 990FXA series, and after this initial round of BD chips your board will be outdated. Not to mention, you get power saving features and probably more overclockability with the new boards.


Don't forget: The 990FX boards are also very very nice looking! Dark mobos FTW!


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*


Don't forget: The 990FX boards are also very very nice looking! Dark mobos FTW!


This is also a good reason to upgrade, the 990 FXA series has some of the best looking boards around.


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Shtopor*


Hi to all!
About Vdroop... There is no vdroop on the latest BIOSes or on the latest revisions of UD3s?
I'm very interested in this Mobo, but the voltage fluctuations stop me buying it...


I mean BIOS yes. However there is a voltage fluctuation on RAM but you can adjust it to 1.515v, I did that to maintain stability on my OCed RipJaws 6-8-6-24 1T @ 1.65v, when I set it to 1.65v the BIOS gives me 1.635v reading so I have to set it 0.015v higher than normal, so no big deal.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:



Originally Posted by *NoGuru*


Looking for a used one. PM me if you are selling.


are you getting into AMD noguru?


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;14465189*
> are you getting into AMD noguru?


LOL, I have posted for one of these in some of the private sections and you are the first one to notice








I think I should try it at least. Looks like AMD can be really fun frozen, and I can afford to get more chips. I will still have an Intel setup but won't do much until Ivy.


----------



## solar0987

So i just ordered a ud5







know about the voltage before hand. Any good high speed memory play well with it? Any suggestions would be nice, im pretty much just swaping sig rig motherboard out, and hooking up my other 470.


----------



## NoGuru

Anyone use SuperTalent Speed series (Elpida Hypers) with these boards?


----------



## Panickypress

Hello.. I want to be part of this club thing








Just put in this bastard yesterday and finnished os installation and the stuff today... NOT dissapointed!!!! except that system always hangs on restart? other than that it's the fastest and most stable board i've ever had... coming from a crosshair iv extreme i am very pleased!

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1940956


----------



## Panickypress

Sorry... that cpuid is not validated- here u go, run as admin







also tinked the freq.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1941037
awesome UD7!!!!!!!!!


----------



## arsenal553

Hey guys, just installed a UD7. Im having a issue with the cpu voltage. I set it to 1.3 in the bios and i save the settings ans restart. Then i see that the cpu is getting 1.36 volts via pc health status. Its like a reverse vdroop. Anyone having the same issue?


----------



## solar0987

So persay its set so you set the min volts you want your mb to handle say 1.475 then you overclock so it scales the volts with the load higher the load the higher the voltage?


----------



## arsenal553

I set the vcore to 1.3 volts but the motherboard gives it 1.36. Maybe the voltage sensors are broken.


----------



## Willhemmens

You're getting Vboost at idle. Try applying load (Prime 95 or similar) and see what the voltage does then.


----------



## Allubz

Dear people,

I'm currently in the progress of reviewing the UD7 for XSReviews.co.uk.

My findings are very similar to most of yours:

- unlockable CPU's that don't work well;
- high vdroop / vdrop (this could be due to chip design for Bulldozer?);
- freezes on restart (the RAID screen would hang if I would try any buttons for BIOS / boot options etc., or sometimes at random)

First, I'd like to propose *a fix to the Windows 64-bit RAID installation issues* you guys have been having. There's a simple fix to this:
- Obtain a Windows installation disk with ONLY 64-bit versions (regardless of type, Home or Ultimate, as long as it's 64-bit).
--> If there are only 64-bit versions available for install, Windows Setup will load the 64-bit platform automatically and will not give the weird "unsigned drivers" issue when trying to load the 64-bit RAID driver from the Gigabyte support disk (or any correct version that you obtained, for that matter)
This method worked fine for me.

Second, I'm also looking at the unlock issues. I'm using a Phenom II X2 555 that easily unlocks to X4 B55 at 3.80GHz (one of the cores has issues >3.85GHz).
Any X3 setup (be it core 1,2,3 or 1,2,4 activated) works splendid overclocked under load. Unlocking the CPU to X4 on stock speed instantly freezes the rig when running stress tests (like Prime95, LinX). This is an issue that needs attention.

Thirdly, I'm well aware of the random freezes at POST / BOOT. This especially happens when RAID is activated and is plain annoying as you need time your button pushing very well in order not to freeze the system.
*This supposedly gets fixed by the F4b BIOS*. I have updated but not tested thoroughly yet.

Fourth, my findings on vdroop / vdrop:
Quote:


> F4b (X3 3.8GHz, DDR3-1600) (vCPU 1.45) (vRAM 1.65)
> Idle:
> vCPU 1.488 // 1472
> vRAM 1.632
> 
> Load (Prime95 Blend):
> vCPU 1.440
> vRAM 1.632
> 
> Load (Prime95 heat/pcons):
> vCPU 1.424 // 1.440
> vRAM 1.632
> 
> Load (Prime95 small FFT's):
> vCPU 1.424
> vRAM 1.648


I'm currently in a mail exchange with one of the UK Gigabyte tech support people. He/she is also forwarding these issues to the engineers.

For cross-reference, here is the Xtreme Systems thread on the Gigabyte 990FX-series:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?271757-GIGABYTE-9xx-AM3-thread
People report similar problems and try to come up with fixes.

F4c BIOS: http://www.overclock.net/attachments/amd-motherboards/221081d1311370040-official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-99fxaud7.rar
--- Still testing


----------



## Willhemmens

A heads up, the UD7's F4C bios doesn't do much in the Vdroop/Vboost area adn the 6 cores appear to have much more Vdroop.

With a 1090T and the F4C Bios:

CPU: 4218MHz
CPU-NB: 2800MHz
Ram - 1600 6-7-6-18 1.65v

Cpu voltages
Idle: 1.616v
Prime Small FFTs: 1.504v

CPU load temp is 42C today and Mosfet area has active cooling.

Also, welcome to the Forum!


----------



## Thakic

Ã¢ÃªÃ³Ã±Ã*Ã»Ã¥ Ã°Ã¥Ã¶Ã¥Ã¯Ã²Ã» Ã¤Ã«Ã¿ Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã»ÃªÃ*Ãª Ã¯Ã®ÃµÃ³Ã¤Ã¥Ã²Ã¼ Ã¥Ã±Ã«Ã¨ Ã¬Ã*Ã«Ã® Ã¢Ã°Ã¥Ã¬Ã¥Ã*Ã¨Ã´Ã°Ã³ÃªÃ²Ã®Ã¢Ã*-Ã®Ã¢Ã®Ã¹Ã*Ã*Ã¿ Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã*ÃªÃ*Ãª Ã¯Ã®ÃµÃ³Ã¤Ã¥Ã²Ã¼ Ã¤Ã® 42 Ã°Ã*Ã§Ã¬Ã¥Ã°Ã*ÃªÃ¨Ã²Ã*Ã©Ã±ÃªÃ*Ã¿ Ã®Ã·Ã¨Ã¹Ã*Ã¾Ã¹Ã*Ã¿ Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã*Ã±Ã¡Ã®Ã°Ã*Ã¨Ãª Ã²Ã¥ÃµÃ*Ã¨ÃªÃ®-Ã²Ã¥ÃµÃ*Ã®Ã«Ã®Ã£Ã¨Ã·Ã¥Ã±ÃªÃ¨Ãµ ÃªÃ*Ã°Ã² Ã¤Ã«Ã¿ Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã¨Ã·Ã¥Ã±ÃªÃ®Ã£Ã® Ã¯Ã¨Ã²Ã*Ã*Ã¨Ã¿Ã¯Ã°Ã*Ã¢Ã¨Ã«Ã* Ã¨ Ã¢Ã±Ã¿ Ã¢Ã±Ã¿ Ã¨Ã*Ã´Ã®Ã°Ã¬Ã*Ã¶Ã¨Ã¿ Ã® ÃªÃ°Ã¥Ã¬Ã«Ã¥Ã¢Ã±ÃªÃ®Ã© Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã¥Ã«Ã¨Ã¸Ã*Ã¨Ã© Ã¢Ã¥Ã± Ã¯Ã°Ã¨ Ã°Ã®Ã±Ã²Ã¥ 158 Ã±Ã¬Ã¯Ã°Ã*Ã¢Ã¨Ã«Ã¼Ã*Ã®Ã¥ Ã¯Ã¨Ã²Ã*Ã*Ã¨Ã¥ Ã¤Ã¥Ã²Ã¥Ã© Ã¤Ã® 1 Ã£Ã®Ã¤Ã*Ã¯Ã®Ã±Ã«Ã¥ Ã¸Ã¥Ã±Ã²Ã¨ Ã*Ã¥ Ã¥Ã±Ã²Ã¼ Ã*Ã¥ Ã¯Ã¨Ã²Ã¼ Ã¯Ã®ÃµÃ³Ã¤Ã¥Ã²Ã¼Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã* Ã¤Ã¨Ã*Ã¡Ã¥Ã²Ã¨ÃªÃ*Ã²Ã¨Ã®Ã±Ã³Ã«Ã¼Ã´Ã*Ã² Ã*Ã*Ã²Ã°Ã¨Ã¿ Ã¤Ã«Ã¿ Ã¯Ã®ÃµÃ³Ã¤Ã¥Ã*Ã¨Ã¿Ã¯Ã°Ã®ÃªÃ®Ã« Ã³ÃµÃ* Ã¤Ã«Ã¿ Ã¯Ã®ÃµÃ³Ã¤Ã¥Ã*Ã¨Ã¿Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã* Ã± Ã¯Ã®Ã¬Ã®Ã¹Ã¼Ã¾ Ã·Ã*Ã©Ã*Ã®Ã£Ã® Ã£Ã°Ã¨Ã¡Ã*Ã¯Ã¨Ã²Ã*Ã*Ã¨Ã¥ Ã¤Ã«Ã¿ ÃªÃ®Ã°Ã¬Ã¿Ã¹Ã¥Ã© Ã¬Ã*Ã¬Ã» Ã¤Ã«Ã¿ Ã¯Ã®ÃµÃ³Ã¤Ã¥Ã*Ã¨Ã¿Ã¬Ã*Ã¸Ã* . ÃªÃ®Ã²Ã®Ã°Ã*Ã¿ Ã¯Ã®ÃµÃ³Ã¤Ã¥Ã«Ã* Ã*Ã* 50 ÃªÃ£Ã¡Ã»Ã±Ã²Ã°Ã® Ã¤Ã¥Ã¸Ã¥Ã¢Ã® Ã¯Ã®ÃµÃ³Ã¤Ã¥Ã²Ã¼ Ã*Ã* 20 ÃªÃ£ÃªÃ®Ã¬Ã±Ã®Ã¬Ã®Ã«Ã¼Ã±ÃªÃ*Ã¿ Ã¯Ã°Ã*Ã¢Ã¤Ã* Ã°Ã³Ã¯Ã®Ã«Ã*Ã*Ã¿ Ã²Ã*Ã¡Ã«Ã¨Ã¶Ã* Ã®Ã·ÃªÃ®Ã¢ ÃªÃ°Ã¥Ã¬Ã«Ã¥Ã¢Ã±ÃªÃ®Ã© Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã»Ã´Ã®Ã²Ã®Ã£Ã°Ã*Ã´Ã¨Ã¨ Ã¤Ã® Ã¨ Ã¯Ã®Ã±Ã«Ã¥ Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã»Ã¤Ã¨Ã¥Ã²Ã* Ã¬Ã´Ã°Ã£Ã*Ã°Ã¨Ã²Ã´ ÃªÃ®Ã°Ã®Ã«Ã¥Ã¢Ã®Ã©


----------



## Allubz

Thanks Willhemmens









I take it you got the BIOS directly from Gigabyte? I hope they'll be willing to let me test some beta stuff this week, as currently this review is going nowhere.

I thought the Thubans have more extreme problems, when reading the XS thread. People refer to the Turbo Core there too, as a probable cause.

I'm about to test the F4c to see if it fixes my multi-core problem.
EDIT: it doesn't.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Allubz*


Thanks Willhemmens









I take it you got the BIOS directly from Gigabyte? I hope they'll be willing to let me test some beta stuff this week, as currently this review is going nowhere.

I thought the Thubans have more extreme problems, when reading the XS thread. People refer to the Turbo Core there too, as a probable cause.

I'm about to test the F4c to see if it fixes my multi-core problem.


I did indeed get my copy from Gigabyte. Its attached to one of my posts a couple pages back.

Turbo Core does seem to make the issue worse but as I am and most others are overclocking, Turbo Core just gets turned off by me.

So far atleast Gigabyte Tech support do not appear to have a clue on how to fix the issue, Gigabyte forums are useless. Been quite a while since they last released a bios, I don't mind the wait if it fixes issues, though.

I'd be very interested to hear if you manage to get anything newer than F4C, if you do, lets hope it fixes a couple of the issues.

Other wise, I'm very happy with the board, seems just as solid as my previous Gigabyte boards. I've not had any issues with POST hangs, I'm only running with AHCI on though.


----------



## Panickypress

qestion?
cpuz says=
MB Brand : Gigabyte
MB Model : GA-990FXA-UD7
NB : ATI ID5A14 rev 02
SB : AMD SB850 rev 40

should it not say something like NB: 990fx and SB: 950 ???
sorry if this is a stupid question! but what is this?


----------



## Willhemmens

Well according to the Gigabyte site the board has:
North Bridge: AMD 990FX
South Bridge: AMD SB950

CPU-Z is probably incorrect.


----------



## Allubz

Shows same for me. It's incorrect. Other programs do show SB950. SB950 is barely any different from SB850 afaik, though.


----------



## Benz

Looks like I can't get my 4th core stable at any voltage on my GA-990FXA-UD3.
Is there an issue with the core unlocker on this board? Cause my 4th core worked fine on my previous MSI 990FXA-GD65 (exchanged for GA-990FXA-UD3). I'm getting system lockups when I use it to unlock my 4th core. It was also fine on my GA-MA790GP-DS4H. It bothers me why did it work on my 2 previous boards.


----------



## Allubz

Look at my post at page 69 (last page)


----------



## Panickypress

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allubz;14495966*
> Shows same for me. It's incorrect. Other programs do show SB950. SB950 is barely any different from SB850 afaik, though.


sure but what abot the nb?= NB : ATI ID5A14 rev 02
that just makes no sense to me!.. maybe i'm a ******? but if i'm not then why ATI ID5A14 rev 02?
on my old board witch was a 890fx it said 890fx and sb850, so if the ud7 or cpuid or who ever is confused then why ATI ID5A14 rev 02? and not 890fx... i'm just trying to understand


----------



## BramSLI1

Sorry that the pics are kinda dark. My camera isn't the greatest.


----------



## solar0987

Ok so my ud5 is orderd one thing i noticed is at the end of the sku there is a r maybe for revised edition?
the sku is MB GIGABYTE | GA-990FXA-UD5 R<--- no other place list a r at the end.

Last question is the ud5 owners here a little help,

What memory that's higher speed works well with the board, any help is greatly appreciated, by higher speed i mean 1866 to 2000.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Allubz;14496254*
> Look at my post at page 69 (last page)


Thanks Allubz, I also suspected the BIOS right from the beginning.


----------



## fslateef

I some weeks ago bought GA-990FXA-UD3 board and I am really happy with it. I overclocked my CPU and its quite stable. I tested it with Prime95 blend for more than 6 hours (and previously for 18-hours before final tuning) and also ran 3DMark 11 to test it.

Here's my CPU-Z validation banner code: 

Thanks.

P.S. Please have a look at it and tell me if its not good or going to damage my system ? My temperature under full load is: TMPIN0 = 31c to 33c, TMPIN1 = 54c to 58c and TMPIN2 = 58c to 62c


----------



## Willhemmens

Looks fine to me.


----------



## fslateef

Thanks


----------



## Benz

Get rid of that awful onboard sound card, I also have UD3 and my X-Fi Titanium beats the crap out of it. If you buy a decent sound card you won't regret it. You'll be better off with the Audigy SE + daniel_k modded drivers.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14496485*
> Ok so my ud5 is orderd one thing i noticed is at the end of the sku there is a r maybe for revised edition?
> the sku is MB GIGABYTE | GA-990FXA-UD5 R<--- no other place list a r at the end.
> 
> Last question is the ud5 owners here a little help,
> 
> What memory that's higher speed works well with the board, any help is greatly appreciated, by higher speed i mean 1866 to 2000.


when you get it test the vdroop


----------



## Sin0822

I did a review of this board:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1086462-990fxa-ud7-review-analysis-ripple-testing.html


----------



## Allubz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panickypress;14496268*
> sure but what abot the nb?= NB : ATI ID5A14 rev 02
> that just makes no sense to me!.. maybe i'm a ******? but if i'm not then why ATI ID5A14 rev 02?
> on my old board witch was a 890fx it said 890fx and sb850, so if the ud7 or cpuid or who ever is confused then why ATI ID5A14 rev 02? and not 890fx... i'm just trying to understand


CPU-Z just doesn't fully support the chipset yet. FinalWare AIDA64 (prev.: Lavalys Everest) does: http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/6977/iup.png

If you look closely, you'll see that the NB: R990 - is indeed rev. 02, like your screenshot says. It's just a matter of updating the text strings for CPU-Z to be textually accurate again I suppose.


----------



## Panickypress

Oohh.. just tried the aida64 trial version and you are indeed right







and it also actually says 990fx chipset in the summary... nice thank you for showing this! thats all i wanted to see


----------



## arsenal553

100% stable. Once you work past the vboost this is the most stable motherboard I have ever owned.


----------



## rawsteel

My ud5 is running a 955BE CPU and HWMonitor shows the core temp at 47 is this normal.? everything is running at stock CPU-Z shows the voltage at 1.440


----------



## billy66bare

Any word on getting CPU temp, NB, SB temps figured out. I can't seem to find any monitoring tool outside of AOD, and the temps aren't labeled.

EDIT: Outside of AIDA64 since they won't take my Everest code.


----------



## rawsteel

AOD reports my CPU at 59
BIOS says 39
HWMonitor says 48 for the cores


----------



## Willhemmens

Good news UD7 owners! EK's block should be arriving soon. Going to look awesome in a Nickel + Plexi combo. Cant wait.










They've said the aluminum heatsink will be black anodized too and that if you should want to water cool the south bridge, they will have compatible blocks for that.

Link here.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Nice! wonder if it fits my beloved UD3...


----------



## Willhemmens

Since the North bridge placement is completely different, I'm afraid it wont fit. EK have said that some of their older single blocks should fit the UD3 and UD5 though.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

lol didnt notice the diff between the 2 boards









Just for the color... I'll keep the UD3


----------



## Benz

Of course you will.









I'm working on heatpipes for my UD3, I'll let you all know how it turns out.


----------



## Willhemmens

What benefits do you think you will see by connecting the heat sinks via a heat pipe? Sure if you can me it look good it will be awesome but I'm doubtful of any noticeable performance gains. I'd be very interested to see it done though!


----------



## Benz

No no, not performance gains, lower temps. Right now the chipset has 43Â°C, so I wanna have lower temps.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

I just mesure the temp of the NB heatsink using a laser-infrared thermometer and it shows 68ÂºC (its a little high for my taste







).... so now i wanna see if there is a chance to change the heatsink for another more efficient.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


No no, not performance gains, lower temps. Right now the chipset has 43Â°C, so I wanna have lower temps.


If you think VRMs run any cooler, you would be surprised.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*


I just mesure the temp of the NB heatsink using a laser-infrared thermometer and it shows 68ÂºC (its a little high for my taste







).... so now i wanna see if there is a chance to change the heatsink for another more efficient.


68C Is a little warm, not an issue but I understand. Your best and cheapest bet would be to just put a fan up in that area. The fan from an AMD stock cooler works great.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



68C Is a little warm, not an issue but I understand. Your best and cheapest bet would be to just put a fan up in that area. The fan from an AMD stock cooler works great.


I was thinking the same... however my noctua D14 doesnt leave much free space there...


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Hmm, just noticed I hadn't submitted a validation, and still remain on the "unofficial" member list. Still working on this oc w/ the 1090. Fully Linx/OCCT stable @ 4.18 Ghz so far. 3080 Mhz NB, with mem @ 1760 Mhz 6-6-6-17-35 (1T). Not a bad start


















http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1945608

][/URL]


----------



## Bloodcore

Hello, I'm currently thinking of buying the GA-990FXA-UD5 and I have a couple of questions.








If you take a look at my Sig-System.. I have a SilverArrow heatsink.
Will I have any problems when putting together the system when using this motherboard?

Is there enough room around the RAM slots / the closest PCIe slot?


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14523534*
> If you think VRMs run any cooler, you would be surprised.


Not the VRMs, the NB is hot on touch so I'm gonna make myself a heatpipe.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop;14524444*
> Hmm, just noticed I hadn't submitted a validation, and still remain on the "unofficial" member list. Still working on this oc w/ the 1090. Fully Linx/OCCT stable @ 4.18 Ghz so far. 3080 Mhz NB, with mem @ 1760 Mhz 6-6-6-17-35 (1T). Not a bad start
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1945608
> 
> [URL=http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1945608]


Nice what bios are you using? Got mine installed today about hour ago ud5








. Def better then my 870a-ud3


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloodcore;14525450*
> Hello, I'm currently thinking of buying the GA-990FXA-UD5 and I have a couple of questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you take a look at my Sig-System.. I have a SilverArrow heatsink.
> Will I have any problems when putting together the system when using this motherboard?
> 
> Is there enough room around the RAM slots / the closest PCIe slot?


Both UD5 and UD3 have almost the same layout. I have a UD3 with a Noctua D14 and i can say there is room for ram sticks and caps around the socket.

However, since your silver arrow and my noctua D14 tend to move the air out of the case and out of the socket you wanna consider lower the fan located between the radiators so can blow some air to the VRM heatsink or the NB heatsink. (depending the orientation of the silverarrow itself)

@Benz
Yeah its really hot! around 68ºC at idle! well its summer here... but it worry me a little.


----------



## Benz

Summer doesn't matter, it's also summer here in Slovenia about 32Â°C and my NB reaches 45Â°C max @ idle. Yours is way too high.


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


Nice what bios are you using? Got mine installed today about hour ago ud5









. Def better then my 870a-ud3


I'm still on the F3 bios, which gives some massive vdroop. Under full load w/ Linx or OCCT, I'm seeing 1.51 Vcore. I'm a little disappointed that I can't seem to reach 1800 Mhz mem. Although my ram will handle 1.9V (Super Talent recommends no more than 1.85V for daily usage on these sticks), it gets a little unstable around 1780 Mhz @ 6-6-6-17 even with 1.85 V. Hyper's are awesome, I'm pretty sure I could reach 2000 Mhz if I loosened the timings a bit.









Still playing with it to see what I can eek out of the ram. But I can say this 1090 isn't scoring as well as my 965 did w/ a slightly lower ram oc of 1744 Mhz. I lost nearly 120 MB/s in the Winsat mem score. Not sure as to why, it should be pushing more at the same timings (but higher freq) than the 965 could. Odd. :/


----------



## Bloodcore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;14529748*
> Both UD5 and UD3 have almost the same layout. I have a UD3 with a Noctua D14 and i can say there is room for ram sticks and caps around the socket.


Thanks.

One more thing though.
Should I use the SB950 or the Marvell chip?

I'll be using 3 SSDs and no Raid at all.


----------



## Rustynails

just got my ud3 waiting fro rmy 720 be to come in


----------



## Karossua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14532134*
> Summer doesn't matter, it's also summer here in Slovenia about 32°C and my NB reaches 45°C max @ idle. Yours is way too high.


Oh man!, i live in Monterrey, Mexico currently i have 42"C (room is 36"C) and my vrm´s and NB temperatures no exceeds 45"C at full load. The processor is 52"C, per core 46"C .


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop*


I'm still on the F3 bios, which gives some massive vdroop. Under full load w/ Linx or OCCT, I'm seeing 1.51 Vcore. I'm a little disappointed that I can't seem to reach 1800 Mhz mem. Although my ram will handle 1.9V (Super Talent recommends no more than 1.85V for daily usage on these sticks), it gets a little unstable around 1780 Mhz @ 6-6-6-17 even with 1.85 V. Hyper's are awesome, I'm pretty sure I could reach 2000 Mhz if I loosened the timings a bit.









Still playing with it to see what I can eek out of the ram. But I can say this 1090 isn't scoring as well as my 965 did w/ a slightly lower ram oc of 1744 Mhz. I lost nearly 120 MB/s in the Winsat mem score. Not sure as to why, it should be pushing more at the same timings (but higher freq) than the 965 could. Odd. :/


I couldnt get a stable overclock with f3, flashed to f4 running 4.0 with 1860 memory timings at 9-9-9-241t running stability tests as we speak
meh bsod as im typing blah im gonna try 10-10-10-24-1t and this is the gskill value ram







at 1.6 volts.

Nice overclock btw.
Wtb better memory lol


----------



## Lucky 13 SpeedShop

Quote:



Originally Posted by *solar0987*


I couldnt get a stable overclock with f3, flashed to f4 running 4.0 with 1860 memory timings at 9-9-9-241t running stability tests as we speak
meh bsod as im typing blah im gonna try 10-10-10-24-1t and this is the gskill value ram







at 1.6 volts.

Nice overclock btw.
Wtb better memory lol



Thanks!







Try giving them 1.7-1.75V. Try everything else first, and then if you absolutely *have* to, then loosen the timings.

You might be able to find some of these Super Talent Project X's, or Speed series. They do come up for sale, very infrequently, but they do. I have dibs on the only set of Project X's I know of that may come up for sale soon (gonna need 8GB for 8 cores of BD under full load to prevent bottlenecking the cpu, I'm sure). But I can tell you, they don't go for cheap.

If anything, expect to pay anywhere from $200-280 for 4GB...which was a bit more than they went for new (on the top end figure). You nearly have to kill someone to get them to relinquish any ram w/ Elpida Hyper's IC's. Unless they recently invested in a Sandy Bridge, where they can't make use of them.









You can find them (Hypers) in a few different EOL models. Like older Kingston Hyper X's, Corsair Dom. GT's, Mushkin Redlines, a few models of A-data, and as mentioned earlier...2 models from STT. It's pretty easy to spot Hyper equipped sticks. They are still the only sticks you'll see rated at really low timings over 2000 Mhz. Eg: mine are rated at 7-7-7-21 @ 2000 Mhz.


----------



## musicman1953

Quote:



Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*


Running F3B w/ Thuban, elpida hyper and SF 1200 SSD flawlessly


If you ask Gigabyte tech like I did then they will give you the latest beta bios for this board and that is F3c.
I have had this version of the bios for over a week but you will not notice anything different.
There is no vdroop on the UD3 board, it is v boost and is by design.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Summer doesn't matter, it's also summer here in Slovenia about 32Â°C and my NB reaches 45Â°C max @ idle. Yours is way too high.


I believe it reaches that temps because the NB heatsink doesn't get any airflow due to Noctua cpu fan being to high and separate from the motherboard. Will try to check temp with another tool also. Dunno where in the bios or some temp monitoring software i read that same temps that you have... but the temp in the heat sink seems above 10 to 15 degrees above that.

@Bloodcore
Didn't read ya! XD 
My beloved UD3 doesnt have a marvell controller so i use the integrated in the SB950. Sorry i can't help you with that.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Lucky 13 SpeedShop*


Thanks!







Try giving them 1.7-1.75V. Try everything else first, and then if you absolutely *have* to, then loosen the timings.

You might be able to find some of these Super Talent Project X's, or Speed series. They do come up for sale, very infrequently, but they do. I have dibs on the only set of Project X's I know of that may come up for sale soon (gonna need 8GB for 8 cores of BD under full load to prevent bottlenecking the cpu, I'm sure). But I can tell you, they don't go for cheap.

If anything, expect to pay anywhere from $200-280 for 4GB...which was a bit more than they went for new (on the top end figure). You nearly have to kill someone to get them to relinquish any ram w/ Elpida Hyper's IC's. Unless they recently invested in a Sandy Bridge, where they can't make use of them.









You can find them (Hypers) in a few different EOL models. Like older Kingston Hyper X's, Corsair Dom. GT's, Mushkin Redlines, a few models of A-data, and as mentioned earlier...2 models from STT. It's pretty easy to spot Hyper equipped sticks. They are still the only sticks you'll see rated at really low timings over 2000 Mhz. Eg: mine are rated at 7-7-7-21 @ 2000 Mhz.


I dont know if im comfortable putting 1.5 volt ram at that high of volts

Ya ive only seen a pair of dom gt's with them once.

Oh and heres a pic of rig with ud5 to make the cut in the club, and my new wb that came in today finally wohoo I put the box under the glass table


----------



## Panickypress

hello.. question???
if i use q-flash from a usb stick, does the usb stick have to empty apart from the bios? i have borrowed a usb stick from work as i want to flash the bios, problem is it's taking a looooong time deleting the stuff since it's 1.0 and 8GB of documents... i have already backed up the documents but erasing them is hell!!
so question is- can i just dump the Bios in there and flash away? or could i screw something up by doing so?
btw.. i started deleting 15 min ago and i have approximately. 1h to go


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panickypress;14546464*
> hello.. question???
> if i use q-flash from a usb stick, does the usb stick have to empty apart from the bios? i have borrowed a usb stick from work as i want to flash the bios, problem is it's taking a looooong time deleting the stuff since it's 1.0 and 8GB of documents... i have already backed up the documents but erasing them is hell!!
> so question is- can i just dump the Bios in there and flash away? or could i screw something up by doing so?
> btw.. i started deleting 15 min ago and i have approximately. 1h to go


You can format that drive, its way much faster than delete every file.


----------



## MadGoat

ok, I got my UD3 and cant get windows to install on raid 0 to save my life. im running F2... would F3b help me out? (if so can someone send that my way? if at all possible)

windows install looks healthy and everything seems great... then last step on the install the screen goes black (as if it where installing the video driver) but never comes back up and hdd activity comes to a halt soon after.... will stay that way forever...

any help would be greatly appreciated! thanks again guys!

EDIT: Little more info... F3 500gb drives, When plugged in to the sata headers they will both click click drop head etc... power off, pull sata cables, power up... they spin up fine no click. these drives are fairly new and have run fine in raid 0 on a nvidia 750a board for awhile... whats the deal here?

im begining to think that the amd controller killed my drives!

EDIT EDIT!: Found the F3b bios! Loaded up and the damn thing installed... i havnt turned my computer off yet to see if my hard drive will flip out again... BUT they both have spit SMART errors all over the place. But so far windows is installed and updating...


----------



## Lovick

Got my UD5, am I crazy or can you not install a hyper 212+ onto it without obstructing 2 of the ram slots? I spent a half an hour trying to get it onto the mobo, and once I got it onto it I noticed it was obstructing 2 of the ram slots. Am I just doing it wrong?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lovick;14551519*
> Got my UD5, am I crazy or can you not install a hyper 212+ onto it without obstructing 2 of the ram slots? I spent a half an hour trying to get it onto the mobo, and once I got it onto it I noticed it was obstructing 2 of the ram slots. Am I just doing it wrong?


You are right! the 912 isn't tall enough to put ram next to it in this board. However you can try to put the fan in a higher position in order to allow some space under.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14516933*
> Good news UD7 owners! EK's block should be arriving soon. Going to look awesome in a Nickel + Plexi combo. Cant wait.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They've said the aluminum heatsink will be black anodized too and that if you should want to water cool the south bridge, they will have compatible blocks for that.
> 
> Link here.


Looks awesome, cant wait!


----------



## Lovick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;14559206*
> You are right! the 912 isn't tall enough to put ram next to it in this board. However you can try to put the fan in a higher position in order to allow some space under.


I wish it were that easy, the only way I was able to get it to fit was to have it horizontal in my case, so that the side of the huge metal part was over the ram slots, not the fan. It didn't seem possible to put it vertically, but I was getting irritated at the time. Am I just crazy?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lovick;14560506*
> I wish it were that easy, the only way I was able to get it to fit was to have it horizontal in my case, so that the side of the huge metal part was over the ram slots, not the fan. It didn't seem possible to put it vertically, but I was getting irritated at the time. Am I just crazy?


XD u r not crazy... just need to get a new and taller heatsink. You are invited to join Noctua crazy owners club!


----------



## mystikalrush

Does anyone have the latest BIOs or Beta BIOS for the GA-990FXA-UD3
As far as i know F3c from what i heard is the latest, if not please supply.


----------



## MadGoat

Could I be added as well?

Not the greatest overclock... but it will do for now...


----------



## Conner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;14562257*
> Could I be added as well?
> 
> Not the greatest overclock... but it will do for now...


Add yourself.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14560587*
> Does anyone have the latest BIOs or Beta BIOS for the GA-990FXA-UD3
> As far as i know F3c from what i heard is the latest, if not please supply.


http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=6407.0

Link to the F3b bios... (which is actually from this board...







) I had to use it myself to even get an OS to install.

Sorry its not F3c, I would like to know if that's available myself (and what it fixes for that matter).

I have noticed that my UD3 is limiting my Memory voltage to 1.644. I wont go any higher regardless of bios setting. (just an observation)

Also, i know some have spoken about this previously... but this north bridge is crazy hot. Burn my finger hot...


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;14562850*
> 
> Also, i know some have spoken about this previously... but this north bridge is crazy hot. Burn my finger hot...


Yeah its really hot! can you measure it with a thermometer please? its around 68ºC?


----------



## MadGoat

I'll try and do my best... there isn't really a flat surface to get good contact with a thermometer however.... wish i had a IR meter... I'll post back...

EDIT: Cant get a thermometer in there in any fashion to get a good read... i got it up to 45c.. but i can tell its not making contact enough and my case fans are cooling the thermometer off too much :-/

BUT i know it tmpin2 (temp 3 in pic) once read 53-55c when i got the board... and now (maybe since the bios updates?) its stuck at 12c... (obviously wrong) ... It wont budge from there.... but this north bridge will still burn the crap outa my finger!


----------



## mystikalrush

damn thats scary, i hope buying this UD3 was worth it in the end. I dont think a BIO update would fix tempature readings would it? I still dont understand why Gigabyte either hasnt updated or bothered to post the latest bios for this motherboard on there offical site.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;14564477*
> I'll try and do my best... there isn't really a flat surface to get good contact with a thermometer however.... wish i had a IR meter... I'll post back...
> 
> EDIT: Cant get a thermometer in there in any fashion to get a good read... i got it up to 45c.. but i can tell its not making contact enough and my case fans are cooling the thermometer off too much :-/
> 
> BUT i know it tmpin2 (temp 3 in pic) once read 53-55c when i got the board... and now (maybe since the bios updates?) its stuck at 12c... (obviously wrong) ... It wont budge from there.... but this north bridge will still burn the crap outa my finger!


One question... Do you have the "unlock cores" option activated in BIOS? if you do, dissable it and test again... that feature sometimes block temp readings.

@mystikalrush
Don't get us wrong... this is an excellent motherboard! just need to accomodate some issue with air flow cooling the northbridge. After all we all like and enjoy to add and improve things in our motherboards XD


----------



## MadGoat

Core unlocker off... And full load this is what i get:










What is interesting is that none of the temps are even close to the core temp. But now I'm confused as to what temp3 is measuring... as well as the ITE's "Cpu" reading for that matter...

EDIT: the "motherboard" temp is close to my ambient temp of 24c. So at least we know that's a good indication of internal case temp... Im thinking i might just go pick up a IR temp gun today, cuz its annoying me ;-) (can use it for tons of other things too anyway)


----------



## Benz

It's night here, actually it's 12.35 in the morning, and it's a little cooler than during the day. My temps are pretty much normal using CnQ, but without CnQ my CPU cores are at 30°C. And yes you do burn your finger touching the NB, so damn hot about 45°C idle during the day. My temps are not high at load, 46°C NB and 42°C CPU @ 1.450v Vcore. My advice, don't touch the NB heatsink.


----------



## MadGoat

lol right on... Solid advice.

I wish we knew what exactly the sensors where monitoring...


----------



## Benz

TMPIN0 = NB
TMPIN1 = CPU
TMPIN2 = MOS (I think)


----------



## LtCheese

Sorry about popping in the thread like this, but how well does the ud3 overclock? I have read about the vdroop and everything, but that probably won't be a big issue for me. I don't run a massive OC on my 955, so I'm not too concerned about that. But is it stable for most circumstances? I'm a little worried about the core chokes not having a heatsink on them.


----------



## mystikalrush

I havn't had any issues, as my previous motherboard i have my 955 at 3.6GHz 24/7 on stock voltage, and when i do heavy benchmarking, it still runs stable at 4.0GHz with voltage increase, same with northbridge OC/Voltage and eventually my 1866 memory when bulldozer comes. Theres tons of overclocking headroom in my UD3.


----------



## MadGoat

Ud3 doesnt have vdroop like the UD5 and Ud7. So far i think its a great board... good bang for the buck board. (and sexy too)

the bios is a little shaky, but the F3b and newer bios are pretty solid (running F3b on mine right now) Other than that, when AMD gets off their ass's and releases an 
"official" 990fx chipset driver to stop the confusion.... everything will be peachy keen i think...


----------



## LtCheese

Yeah I'm really liking the UD3. I don't want to step up to the Sabertooth because it has a terrible expansion slot layout. I wish ASUS would stop sacrificing the first PCIe x1 slot just to have the northbridge there.


----------



## Jonaz

does anybody know where i can download the most stable bios for my board?

new UD5 user here..


----------



## Zeek

Im getting this mobo in less then a week to stick into my sig rig. Anything I should know thats important?


----------



## kzone75

This is as far as I go during the summer: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1955762 A little tweaking here and there and I will be satisfied. It's stable for games at least and that's good enough for me.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14605709*
> This is as far as I go during the summer: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1955762 A little tweaking here and there and I will be satisfied. It's stable for games at least and that's good enough for me.


Nice memory speed and timings! What voltage? (Wish I had a Black... wouldn't have to run such a high FSB)

Are they CL8 sticks?

Also: whats your NB running? Mine hates anything over 2.4...


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;14606220*
> Nice memory speed and timings! What voltage? (Wish I had a Black... wouldn't have to run such a high FSB)
> 
> Are they CL8 sticks?
> 
> Also: whats your NB running? Mine hates anything over 2.4...


They are CL7 running at 1.65V. NB is at 2.660MHz. Have a little trouble getting it any higher. (not that I have tried very hard) I am not sure how much voltage I dare putting through the nb. It's at 1.3V now..


----------



## Conner

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14606586*
> They are CL7 running at 1.65V. NB is at 2.660MHz. Have a little trouble getting it any higher. (not that I have tried very hard) I am not sure how much voltage I dare putting through the nb. It's at 1.3V now..


I have my NB running at 2.8 with 1.25v Stable.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1955853


----------



## mystikalrush

AMD FX B2 Production on its way, late Q3 Launch, i want it now!!!


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conner;14606635*
> I have my NB running at 2.8 with 1.25v Stable.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1955853


Well, that annoys me.







Must try harder this weekend. Only been playing with the multiplier before, so I am kinda new to Bus Speed overclocking..


----------



## solar0987

Anyone got the f5b bios for the ud5?


----------



## Lostintyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14607521*
> Anyone got the f5b bios for the ud5?


http://ge.tt/8otbxs6


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14609643*
> http://ge.tt/8otbxs6


Ty


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Have any of you guys experienced problems getting HDD's to work with your UD3 boards? My Samsung F3 will not spin up if the data cable is plugged in (spins up without it). The drive functions as normal in every other system I have tried it in. My WD drive works fine with the board so I took the power cable and data cable from that and tried it in the F3 but no luck. Have tried 4 of the SATA ports, different data cables and power cables and nothing has changed. Getting a little frustrated now!


----------



## rawsteel

Why is AMD overdrive reporting my CPU as TMPIN 2 and easytune reporting the CPU as TMPIN 1 im pretty sure TMPIN 2 is the NB as the bios shows my CPU temp at 36 also.. im using a GA-990FXA-UD5 with f4 bios


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14611026*
> Have any of you guys experienced problems getting HDD's to work with your UD3 boards? My Samsung F3 will not spin up if the data cable is plugged in (spins up without it). The drive functions as normal in every other system I have tried it in. My WD drive works fine with the board so I took the power cable and data cable from that and tried it in the F3 but no luck. Have tried 4 of the SATA ports, different data cables and power cables and nothing has changed. Getting a little frustrated now!


mmmm what bios version do you have? and have you try a bios setting reset? Some corrupt setting might be preventing the use of your drive. No problems at all in my ud3 and using F2 bios. I've use Samsungs and Westerns and no problems installing and using the drives.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;14612718*
> mmmm what bios version do you have? and have you try a bios setting reset? Some corrupt setting might be preventing the use of your drive. No problems at all in my ud3 and using F2 bios. I've use Samsungs and Westerns and no problems installing and using the drives.


Seems I have the F2 BIOS. I'll give the newest one a try in the hopes that it fixes it..


----------



## nyates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14617502*
> Seems I have the F2 BIOS. I'll give the newest one a try in the hopes that it fixes it..


Hey Spider.

I just barely got my UD3 up and running. I had a similar problem with my first one. Everything in the SATA inputs was recognized, but wouldn't load w/out freezing 3 seconds later. In any configuration.

Long story short, I had to RMA it. Perhaps the SATA inputs on the UD3's are a bit finicky. I have heard a couple other people with problems too. However, once its all up and running, this board is becoming a fast favorite.


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lostintyme;14609643*
> http://ge.tt/8otbxs6


Where do yall find these hidden BIOs? none of these seem to be listed on Gigabytes website. Also if you have or know where they uploaded these bios any updates or offical BIOs for UD3, besides F3b?


----------



## nyates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14619063*
> Where do yall find these hidden BIOs? none of these seem to be listed on Gigabytes website. Also if you have or know where they uploaded these bios any updates or offical BIOs for UD3, besides F3b?


Usually you get them emailed to you from an admin on the Gigabyte forums, or someone in their tech support.


----------



## Karossua

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Have any of you guys experienced problems getting HDD's to work with your UD3 boards? My Samsung F3 will not spin up if the data cable is plugged in (spins up without it). The drive functions as normal in every other system I have tried it in. My WD drive works fine with the board so I took the power cable and data cable from that and tried it in the F3 but no luck. Have tried 4 of the SATA ports, different data cables and power cables and nothing has changed. Getting a little frustrated now!


I have the same disc with no problems in my board. is the UD3 990FX maybe is corruption in the bios. Try hard reset cmos.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1941685


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm willing to try anything before I resort to an RMA. Back into the second semester of my course now and can't be without a computer during this time







Asides from the HDD issue I'm really enjoying this board so far







Overclocking is such a breeze with it!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadGoat*


http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=6407.0

Link to the F3b bios... (which is actually from this board...







) I had to use it myself to even get an OS to install.

Sorry its not F3c, I would like to know if that's available myself (and what it fixes for that matter).

I have noticed that my UD3 is limiting my Memory voltage to 1.644. I wont go any higher regardless of bios setting. (just an observation)

Also, i know some have spoken about this previously... but this north bridge is crazy hot. Burn my finger hot...


Had the same problem (look back a little ways and you can see my rant on the issue). F3 500gb in Raid 0 and i had tons of trouble. Had to update to F3b and *NOT* install any chipset driver of any sort to get it to work correctly.

It actually became so bad that the board now has put my SMART on both drives into eminent failure... I had to load Estools on a dos boot USB drive and disable SMART on both drives(in ide mode however) to get windows to load on the raid array afterwords... otherwise windows saw the raid array as poop and told me as much.

kinda sucks that my SMART is no longer usable, but the beta bios now has me working. (I dare not load any more drivers however... they make things puke BSOD's all over the place...)

Hit the link in the quote... Flash F3b and see if it doesn't solve some issues for ya... it did for me. (Seconds before it found itself slapped with a packaging label... ;-) )


----------



## ohms

Hey Spider, good seeing you here as well. Sorry to hear you ran into problems with your motherboard.


----------



## swindle

Oh man, does anyone think they can help?

This is a thread i made on another forum (i usually go there first due to it being local guys i know, and i post it as it will be much better to help understand any problem as it contains all the information) about my computer not POSTing at all...

http://www.on3network.co.nz/showthread.php?76571-Help-No-post

Sig rig









Looking like an RMA...


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens;14516933*
> Good news UD7 owners! EK's block should be arriving soon. Going to look awesome in a Nickel + Plexi combo. Cant wait.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They've said the aluminum heatsink will be black anodized too and that if you should want to water cool the south bridge, they will have compatible blocks for that.
> 
> Link here.


anyone know if this thing is available yet?


----------



## lswaidz

Hey folks... just got my 990FXA-UD3 installed yesterday... running it with a 1090T and 8GB of Corsair DDR3-1600... everything is all well and good... except for one thing.

I have 2 Sapphire 4850 1GB's that run in Crossfire... both cards are picked up in device manager/hwmonitor, etc... however they'll randomly NOT show up in Catalyst Control Center... anyone have this problem with Crossfired cards? It's completely random. Both cards are getting enough power (I have an Antec P190 with the redundant power supplies, 1200w total) essentially off their own power supply... they'll just randomly drop out. Yes, both cards work fine by themselves.

Oh, also... anyone else have trouble getting into BIOS with a USB keyboard? I had to hook a second PS/2 keyboard up just for getting in BIOS. I'm running F2 right now. Would F3b resolve this?

Other than that this is an incredible motherboard for $150... loving it, but really missing my second video card.

EDIT: Fixed the Crossfire issue... one card was showing up at PCIe x4 and the other x16... swapped their positions and reversed the Crossfire cable (for good luck?) and boom, both in x16 and Crossfire was good to go after 10 reboots. Still not sure on the USB keyboard thing, still not working after F3f installed.


----------



## mystikalrush

Okay folks i have finally got in contact with Gigabyte after a week of waiting they finally gave me updated BIOS for UD3 Hot off the press 8/17/11 Version: F3f!


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14628622*
> Okay folks i have finally got in contact with Gigabyte after a week of waiting they finally gave me updated BIOS for UD3 Version: F3f!


Cool! But what changes are there in the F3f? Will try it out in a bit. Need some pizza first..


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14628787*
> Cool! But what changes are there in the F3f? Will try it out in a bit. Need some pizza first..


Yeah, thats a good question, there very limited to responces atleast they gave me the file to download.


----------



## kzone75

Found DRAM E.O.C.P (easy over clock profile) and Bank Swizzle Mode in the BIOS. Not sure what BSM do but probably something awesome.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*


Okay folks i have finally got in contact with Gigabyte after a week of waiting they finally gave me updated BIOS for UD3 Hot off the press 8/17/11 Version: F3f!


Thank you so much for posting that! Now I'm starting to wish I had held out a little longer and waited for rev.2 of this board haha.


----------



## ohms

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mxthunder*


anyone know if this thing is available yet?


When I had last spoke to Niko aka Tiborrr over at EK he said that the time frame was 2 weeks ago after the release of the GA-990FXA UD7 but I guess it got delayed. I will see if I can get an update!


----------



## Karossua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14628622*
> Okay folks i have finally got in contact with Gigabyte after a week of waiting they finally gave me updated BIOS for UD3 Hot off the press 8/17/11 Version: F3f!


Thank´s man!


----------



## Bloodcore

Could someone tell me where I can get my hands on AMD AHCI-Drivers which I can add when Win7 is installing?
(Preinstall driver)

Hopefully not the version that Gigabyte offers.
I suspect it is quite outdated.


----------



## Arthedes

correct me if im wrong, but is the quality of the ud3, ud5 and ud7 the same? do only the features differ?


----------



## Bloodcore

If you'll take a look at the first page, the design is the same.
Though there are a few differences between the lower and higher-end models.

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/comparison/list.aspx?ck=2&pids=3880,3891,3894,3900


----------



## nyates

Weird. Installing F3f uninstalled or corrupted my video driver. Had to reload it. Random. Good looking bios though. Ram Profiles and Bank Swizzle mode are the only additions I saw. Not brave enough to try out the swizzle... I 'just' got everything stable and perfect...
Quote:


> Bank Swizzle Mode is a DRAM bank address mode that remaps the DRAM bank address to appear as physical address bits. It does this by using the logical operation, XOR (exclusive or), to create the bank address from the physical address bits.
> 
> This effectively interleaves the memory banks and maximizes memory accesses on active rows in each memory bank. It also reduces page conflicts between a cache line fill and a cache line evict in the processor's L2 cache.
> 
> When set to Enable, the memory controller will remap the DRAM bank addresses to appear as physical address bits. This improves performance by maximizing memory accesses on active rows and minimizes page conflicts in the processor's L2 cache


Btw, anyone get a good replacement for the Bios splash screen up and running? Face wizard style? The one for the UD3 is ugly, but I cant find a replacement that seems fitting...


----------



## mystikalrush

Yeah my video drivers seemed to have been removed, but windows picked up on it and put everything back to normal.


----------



## Bloodcore

Am I really the only one that is looking for an updated AHCI driver? :|
Latest one supplied by Gigabyte.. Date: 2010/04/12

I'll pass.


----------



## IzninjaFTW

How bad is the Vdroop on the UD5? If it does have bad VDroop is the UD3 better?

I'm debating whether to get the UD3 or UD5. I'm sick of buying budget boards. I need something that can really expand my options and allow for some ACTUAL ocing. I hate my boards 4+1 power phase :\

And I do plan on doing 2 way sli with additional card(s) for folding


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bloodcore;14645352*
> Am I really the only one that is looking for an updated AHCI driver? :|
> Latest one supplied by Gigabyte.. Date: 2010/04/12
> 
> I'll pass.


Here's a newer one


----------



## Bloodcore

No, I am looking for the "Pre-Install" version.
It allows us to add it straight into the Windows installation when we reach the Partitioning stage in the Windows-Installation by using USB-drive/CD or floppy.


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bloodcore*


Am I really the only one that is looking for an updated AHCI driver? :|
Latest one supplied by Gigabyte.. Date: 2010/04/12

I'll pass.










Go to Gigabyte Offical website and look up your motherboard, they updated AHCI and RAID driver software, brand new 8/16/2011


----------



## Bloodcore

Umm, No.
That is for the Marvell controller, not the AMD-Controller which is a few lines below it.

Thanks though.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Just installed the lastest BIOS and like you guys, also experienced the video card drivers being removed. At least it's easy to fix. Just hope that my drive works now!

EDIT: Nope. Still not working. ffs.


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Just installed the lastest BIOS and like you guys, also experienced the video card drivers being removed. At least it's easy to fix. Just hope that my drive works now!

EDIT: Nope. Still not working. ffs.


What's happening to your HD?


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Bloodcore*


Umm, No.
That is for the Marvell controller, not the AMD-Controller which is a few lines below it.

Thanks though.


What is the Marvell controller suppose to be then?


----------



## Bloodcore

The Marvell controller is there to give us additional(not better) SATA-Ports.
And if I remember correctly, the Marvell controller might be better at raid... But not for single drives.

Also, people recommend using newer AMD-controllers instead of the embedded Marvell-controllers for SSDs.
And in my case.. I am going 100% SSD on my new rig.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14650869*
> What's happening to your HD?


The drive functions in every system but this one. When I have the data cable plugged in, the drive doesn't spin up. Unplug the data cable and it does. Tried swapping cables with the working drive, still nothing and have tried all the ports on the board. Now have tried updating to the latest BIOS and still nothing! This is rather frustrating! The only thing left to try before an RMA is to update the firmware on the drive. Does anyone know if this will wipe my data though?


----------



## nyates

Have you tried another mechanical HDD on your Mobo? Just out of curiosity if you had one laying around... If it works then at least you know its probably fixable with a drive firmware update, (if there is one) and would save you the trouble of an RMA.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14655494*
> The drive functions in every system but this one. When I have the data cable plugged in, the drive doesn't spin up. Unplug the data cable and it does. Tried swapping cables with the working drive, still nothing and have tried all the ports on the board. Now have tried updating to the latest BIOS and still nothing! This is rather frustrating! The only thing left to try before an RMA is to update the firmware on the drive. Does anyone know if this will wipe my data though?


Updating firmware won't erase anything from your drive. But as always, it would be nice if you made a backup somehow. Just to be safe. I've updated HDD firmware before with no issues.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyates;14655661*
> Have you tried another mechanical HDD on your Mobo? Just out of curiosity if you had one laying around... If it works then at least you know its probably fixable with a drive firmware update, (if there is one) and would save you the trouble of an RMA.


Got a mechanical drive and SSD in this system already that both function, as per my sig.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14655813*
> Updating firmware won't erase anything from your drive. But as always, it would be nice if you made a backup somehow. Just to be safe. I've updated HDD firmware before with no issues.


Thank you so much. I will do that today then







The data on there isn't important. Just music and games, but I'll at least back up the stuff I definitely don't want to lose first, just in case.


----------



## mystikalrush

Thats very strange indeed. Deffinately try and firmware as a last ditch effort. If it works in other systems just fine (accessable bios/windows) and not your board then it has to do something with the new chipset not recognizing it. Could you see it in bios at all?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

No not at all unfortunately


----------



## Evil Penguin

Hasn't been a new freakin' BIOS for the UD7 in nearly two months.
Is there a F4C revision for it or something?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;14660506*
> Hasn't been a new freakin' BIOS for the UD7 in nearly two months.
> Is there a F4C revision for it or something?


http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1023100-official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-61.html#post14310568

F4c.. Couldn't find any newer here.

I had to revert back to F3b. Could be a PEBKAC-thingy, but I got some strange memory issues yesterday. Artefacting when playing vids and on my desktop gadgets, freezes.. BSODs pointing to memory issues.. I tried the GPU and memory in my other pc, with no problems. Using the same settings now as I had with F3f and everything seems ok now. Unless this http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1959804 had something to do with it..


----------



## mystikalrush

Can you usually push the FSB like that using stock voltage on top of a multiplier increase running off stock as well?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14661541*
> Can you usually push the FSB like that using stock voltage on top of a multiplier increase running off stock as well?


Not really sure. I mostly use the multiplier when overclocking. I do reach a stable 4.0GHz with stock voltage. If I go WAY above 4GHz I start playing with FSB. But for now I keep it around 4.0-4.1. Dang summer..







Room temps are at 27C right now. And I have some crappy TIM so the temps go a little too high for my liking. I did hit 60C with 4.4GHz..
As a reference I can add that 4.2GHz on my 770TA-UD3 needed 1.472V http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1672364 , 4.5 needed 1.552V http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1683690 and that was during very cold winter. Hopefully they delay BD again so I can play around with my 965BE a little more.







Well, maybe not. Am planning on putting the CPU in mineral oil or something later this fall..

Yep, I am still very happy with this motherboard.


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IzninjaFTW;14645376*
> How bad is the Vdroop on the UD5? If it does have bad VDroop is the UD3 better?
> 
> I'm debating whether to get the UD3 or UD5. I'm sick of buying budget boards. I need something that can really expand my options and allow for some ACTUAL ocing. I hate my boards 4+1 power phase :\
> 
> And I do plan on doing 2 way sli with additional card(s) for folding


Its horrible...... on the ud5 at least.

Wish they would fix it have to run 1.62v to my cpu at idle for stability while loaded...
Other than that a very solid board imo.


----------



## Zeek

Just ordered a 990FXA-UD3! Should be here Wednesday or Thursday


----------



## Evil Penguin

Now if they could only reduce the vdrop.
If it behaves differently with BD, then fine.


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14665620*
> Not really sure. I mostly use the multiplier when overclocking. I do reach a stable 4.0GHz with stock voltage. If I go WAY above 4GHz I start playing with FSB. But for now I keep it around 4.0-4.1. Dang summer..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Room temps are at 27C right now. And I have some crappy TIM so the temps go a little too high for my liking. I did hit 60C with 4.4GHz..
> As a reference I can add that 4.2GHz on my 770TA-UD3 needed 1.472V http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1672364 , 4.5 needed 1.552V http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1683690 and that was during very cold winter. Hopefully they delay BD again so I can play around with my 965BE a little more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, maybe not. Am planning on putting the CPU in mineral oil or something later this fall..
> 
> Yep, I am still very happy with this motherboard.


Im starting to mess with my FSB now from boredom







and also using AMD Overdrive to do it within windows cause to lazy for constant bios changing, but what im concerned have you used AMD OverDrive before if so are those temperatures displayed correct? Mine seem way to high. I believe 62c is the max temp by AMD and they easily get up to 60-61c when i do a stability test in the same program, now usualy ill use HW Monitor which shows what i believe are the real temps maxing at 50c while running the test, any ideas which program shows real results?

Edit* After viewing HW Monitor and AMD OverDrive it seems OD is displaying exactly the same temperatures in HWMonitor under - Temperatures: TMPIN2, correct me if in wrong but isnt that the Southbridge temp (or north) not the actual CPU itself?


----------



## mystikalrush

Wow this motherboard still supprises me. Maybe its the chipset or the power phases, but compaired to my old one which was an nForce 750a chipset this thing lets me OC like crazy. 8+1 to 8+2 and that making my old board that used a 4pin for cpu power to now using the 8pin to power it is probably why.

So far running at 3.8GHz on stock voltage, my other board i had to up to 1.45v just to run it at that rate, and 1.55 for 4GHz, this is going to be a fun night time to see how far i can really push this CPU while never hitting over 60c


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14668187*
> Im starting to mess with my FSB now from boredom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and also using AMD Overdrive to do it within windows cause to lazy for constant bios changing, but what im concerned have you used AMD OverDrive before if so are those temperatures displayed correct? Mine seem way to high. I believe 62c is the max temp by AMD and they easily get up to 60-61c when i do a stability test in the same program, now usualy ill use HW Monitor which shows what i believe are the real temps maxing at 50c while running the test, any ideas which program shows real results?
> 
> Edit* After viewing HW Monitor and AMD OverDrive it seems OD is displaying exactly the same temperatures in HWMonitor under - Temperatures: TMPIN2, correct me if in wrong but isnt that the Southbridge temp (or north) not the actual CPU itself?


Installed AMD Overdrive just now. It shows that all my cores are at 47C. At idle..







cpuz shows 36C.. So I wouldn't trust AOD much on the temps. TMPIN1 on HWMonitor is definitely the CPU. TMPIN2 could be the northbridge (or possibly the MOSFETs), but I am not really sure. Have no idea what TMPIN0 is. Think I'll ask Gigabyte about it later today.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14668591*
> Wow this motherboard still supprises me. Maybe its the chipset or the power phases, but compaired to my old one which was an nForce 750a chipset this thing lets me OC like crazy. 8+1 to 8+2 and that making my old board that used a 4pin for cpu power to now using the 8pin to power it is probably why.
> 
> So far running at 3.8GHz on stock voltage, my other board i had to up to 1.45v just to run it at that rate, and 1.55 for 4GHz, this is going to be a fun night time to see how far i can really push this CPU while never hitting over 60c


Looking forward to seeing your results. I got mine comfortably to 4GHz @ 1.48v but haven't pushed it further just yet.


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14669316*
> Looking forward to seeing your results. I got mine comfortably to 4GHz @ 1.48v but haven't pushed it further just yet.


Well its perty nice running 3.8 at stock, but 4.0 needed 1.5v and im stopping there, sucks how much of a demand it needs for 200MHz increase.


----------



## rawsteel

Where can i download the F5c Beta BIOS for the GA-990FXA-UD5.?


----------



## rawsteel

Nm i got it now


----------



## psychrage

For the few people with Samsung F3 hdd's not being accessed at boot. Flashing the hdd firmware will fix it. No data is lost.
Appears to be an issue with all sb850/950 and Intel p67/h67 chipsets.

http://www.samsung.com/global/busine...bbs_msg_id=308


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *psychrage*


For the few people with Samsung F3 hdd's not being acceded at boot. Flashing the hdd firmware will fix it. No data is lost.
Appears to be an issue with all sb850/950 and Intel p67/h67 chipsets.

http://www.samsung.com/global/busine...bbs_msg_id=308


Cool! Hopefully this fixes spiderm0nkey's HDD problem.


----------



## major1337

@psycharge
big thx m8!!! you solve my biggest problem with that mobo =)







(btw its ga-990fxa ud3)
now just remains the audio problem... since the bios update to f3f i have no audiomanager... if i rightklick the windows 7 audio control and enter the soundcontrol the dolby option is gone... the sound without this option suxx... i have a teufel konzept m power edition and i have no bass.
but thats not dramatical... i am so happy that my samsung 500gb drive works again =)


----------



## solar0987

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rawsteel*


Where can i download the F5c Beta BIOS for the GA-990FXA-UD5.?


It does absolutely squat.. still massive vdroop, still get the bios reboots when changing anything...And the post hangs are horrible old 870a-ud3<--"cheap pos board" boots to windows faster... How does that work? All in all im actually dissapointed with gigabyte this round think im gonna rma this board and go for the asus equavilent

on that note i have f5b not c DOH.. still


----------



## Bloodcore

You are making me feel bad about my newly bought board.
They still haven't shipped it though. Might consider cancelling..

But, the UD5 has everything I need..
Since this will be my first time with a Gigabyte board.. I'll try out the board first.


----------



## psychrage

Let me just add. I flashed the drives with the Marvell chipset SATA ports, to avoid any issue with flashing from the SB950, since it obviously wasn't fully compatible prior to the firmware upgrade.


----------



## hacksaw907

Any impressions on the F5C bios for the UD5, specifically vdroop and bootup times?


----------



## rakesh27

Guys,

Alittle off topic, currently i own a MSI 790FXGD70 and it serves me pretty well, i would like to upgrade as ive got the bug, my preferred choice is the UD7 as i like the slot arrangement, second choice is UD5.

1) Are there any problems with the UD7 Rev1.0
2) Should i purchase UD7 ? or wait for Rev2.0
3) What are highs and lows of the UD5 & UD7

Thanks all, much appreciated


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Yeah I saw that on Samsung's page a little while back but didn't click about the chipset until a few days ago lol. Not planning on flashing it in my system either just to be safe.


----------



## psychrage

Being cautious is understandable. But the issue isn't Gigabyte's fault. So RMAing seems pointless to me. It's either Samsung's or AMD's fault. At least Samsung provides a drive firmware update though.

The firmware update went very smooth for me. Took about a minute per drive.


----------



## major1337

ok, after reinstalling windows 7 i thougt the sound issious were gone... but they dont...
i stil have no option to change the dolby settings in windows audio settings...
my teufel concept m pe sounds like the cheapest noname speaker...
with the f2 bios were evetything all right... some ideas?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14678483*
> ok, after reinstalling windows 7 i thougt the sound issious were gone... but they dont...
> i stil have no option to change the dolby settings in windows audio settings...
> my teufel concept m pe sounds like the cheapest noname speaker...
> with the f2 bios were evetything all right... some ideas?


After flashing the bios, did you clear the cmos? try that and post result. I friend of mine had the same simptom after flashing the board. he has the ud5.


----------



## major1337

hm... thx dude but nothing happens... no dolby setting









*edit*
that menu i miss in the settings


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage;14676935*
> Being cautious is understandable. But the issue isn't Gigabyte's fault. So RMAing seems pointless to me. It's either Samsung's or AMD's fault. At least Samsung provides a drive firmware update though.
> 
> The firmware update went very smooth for me. Took about a minute per drive.


I don't think its anyone's fault really. It's just one of those unforeseeable things that happens when a new technology is released


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage;14671676*
> For the few people with Samsung F3 hdd's not being accessed at boot. Flashing the hdd firmware will fix it. No data is lost.
> Appears to be an issue with all sb850/950 and Intel p67/h67 chipsets.
> 
> http://www.samsung.com/global/business/hdd/faqView.do?b2b_bbs_msg_id=308


Whoa! Nice Find... Wish i had found that before all those permanent SMART errors slipped my drives...

Thanks again!


----------



## psychrage

Yea, that sucks.

The problem was making one of my drives click. So I was pretty scared.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Trying to attach the new F3g BIOS for the UD3 but it keeps telling me the upload has failed







I'll try and put it up onto mediafire or somewhere like that instead.

EDIT: Here it is. http://www.mediafire.com/?bgaa7wzogoooqu6


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14681284*
> Trying to attach the new F3g BIOS for the UD3 but it keeps telling me the upload has failed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try and put it up onto mediafire or somewhere like that instead.


Nice. Feels like we're updating the BIOS every day.


----------



## mystikalrush

Yeah same problem for me what i did was create it as a .rar file then it successfully uploaded


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14681335*
> Nice. Feels like we're updating the BIOS every day.


Lol yep. Updated previous post with link to mediafire download.


----------



## Zeek

Ordered the UD3 mobo this weekend should be arriving thursday I cant wait


----------



## mystikalrush

Thanks for the update!


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeek;14681354*
> Ordered the UD3 mobo this weekend should be arriving thursday I cant wait


You won't be disappointed


----------



## rakesh27

Is ud7 a safe bet with what i already have, i overclock to 4.0Ghz and Memory 1T Dual Channal 1600Mhz along with 2 ssd and multiple hdd, with dedicated soundcard and 6990.....


----------



## major1337

thx for the update but still no dolby theater support and like the f3e no support for the corsair xms3 8gb kit 1600 just 1333... overclocking error after booting @ 1600.
the f3f supports 1600.

*edit*
sry for that question but how did you update your bios? i did it till now wiht @bios... maybe that errors are thatfor?

*edit2*
no, after tryout with q-flash same error... did you clear the dmi data pool???


----------



## mystikalrush

Is it specifically your corsair memory? there isnt a huge list of memory supported, i have G.Skill 8GB Kit 1866 and i dont think a single G.Skill brand was listed, but i've had mine running at 1600 from all bios F2-F3g just fine.


----------



## MKIV

Is F3q or e bios and F3 bios the same..?


----------



## 1nstant

i just got mine today
can it unlock cores ?


----------



## major1337

@mystikalrush
i have just the corsair kit... 2x4gb ddr3 1600
with the f3f works great in 1600 mhz mode.. with the f3g and f3e it runs just in 1333 mhz mode... if i switch it to manual and than to 1600 mhz the system stops with two long beeps and the msg with overclocking fail appears at startup... strange isnt it?


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14685093*
> @mystikalrush
> i have just the corsair kit... 2x4gb ddr3 1600
> with the f3f works great in 1600 mhz mode.. with the f3g and f3e it runs just in 1333 mhz mode... if i switch it to manual and than to 1600 mhz the system stops with two long beeps and the msg with overclocking fail appears at startup... strange isnt it?


Hmm do you have your timings set to manual? i had an issue like that before but it was from my timings being off, after correction system worked fine.


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MKIV;14684076*
> Is F3q or e bios and F3 bios the same..?


F3f and F3g are for UD3 Mobo, im sure they have fixes and what not, but i dont think its for your motherboard.


----------



## major1337

@mystikalrush
no, but i give it a try... i post feedback
the worst thing about the updates are that the soundcard isnt compatible with dolby home theater... with f2 all works great for me... ok the usb keyboard wont =)

*edit*
ok... now im happy like a fat kid about cake ^^
after trying all beta bios im now back @F2... all works great!!! my ram is 1600, my dolby home theatre and the teufel concept e power edition is like an earthquake ^^ and my usb keyboard works great at bios...
dont know why but all is freaking smoothe like ice-cream =)


----------



## Bloodcore

Cancelled the UD5.

I'll wait a month and hope for a rev.2 or a completely different board.
UD5/7 seems to have too many issues with bios.

Though I'll probably order it again if they release a proper bios update.


----------



## mxthunder

http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html

anyone see these in stock anywhere yet?


----------



## Panickypress

hello, maybe someone could give some help with 2 questions??
i wrote to gigabyte complaining about the issue of not being able to restart/reset with the ud7.. they told me to flash to f4b bios so i did, and it did not fix it.. unless i set voltage to more than 1.4v - but i've noticed that above 1.35v hwmonitor shows tmpin2 is getting REALLY hot after a few hours of gaming (hit 110c at one time) but still 100% stable... so what is this tmpin2 and why does it not like voltage?


----------



## LesPaulLover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FDS;13810875*
> oh wow, these boards are gorgeous. UD3 will definitely be my next mobo.


Actually I'm finding my UD3 absolutely terrible.

Why is that MASSIVE heatsink...that gets too hot to even touch...sitting right next to a PCI-e 16 slot? Any game is gonna have a video card in that slot.

Worth heatsink placement I've ever seen.

Please refer to my thread if you have experience with the UD3.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panickypress;14687539*
> hello, maybe someone could give some help with 2 questions??
> i wrote to gigabyte complaining about the issue of not being able to restart/reset with the ud7.. they told me to flash to f4b bios so i did, and it did not fix it.. unless i set voltage to more than 1.4v - but i've noticed that above 1.35v hwmonitor shows tmpin2 is getting REALLY hot after a few hours of gaming (hit 110c at one time) but still 100% stable... so what is this tmpin2 and why does it not like voltage?


TMPIN2 is definitely the northbridge. Mine is between 45-65C. But it feels warmer. I just had a little poke at it..







I can not say why it doesn't like voltage, though.


----------



## nyates

Weird... I have the UD3, and my motherboard temps are all in the 30's. Under load.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyates;14688260*
> Weird... I have the UD3, and my motherboard temps are all in the 30's. Under load.


That is weird, indeed.. I dare you to touch the NB, though.


----------



## LesPaulLover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panickypress;14687539*
> hello, maybe someone could give some help with 2 questions??
> i wrote to gigabyte complaining about the issue of not being able to restart/reset with the ud7.. they told me to flash to f4b bios so i did, and it did not fix it.. unless i set voltage to more than 1.4v - but i've noticed that above 1.35v hwmonitor shows tmpin2 is getting REALLY hot after a few hours of gaming (hit 110c at one time) but still 100% stable... so what is this tmpin2 and why does it not like voltage?


Are those high temps actually sustained?

I'm having a near identical problem --- only I'm showing TMPIN0 and TMPIN2 temp SPIKES at 89 - 90c.

The spikes are near instantaneous and I would have no idea were it not for HWMonitor.

Are there any other Hardware monitoring programs that record a min/max like HWMonitor does!?!?

Example here and more in my thread below:


----------



## LesPaulLover

To be clear the temp spikes often occur while the computer is completely idle.

Just to make sure I left the computer on all day today with HWMonitor as the only program running.

Sure enough when I got home from work, same thing.

TMPIN0/2 showing 90c max temp.

Here's my system AFTER Intel Burn Test. Check the MAX temps. This was 10 passes of IBT @ maximum memory setting:


----------



## Panickypress

the temps in hwmonitor must be faulty! that screenshot was actually from when i was writing that post before, and checking it again right after.. i then just sat starring at it, and suddenly temps went from 33c to 119c and back to 33c in 2 sec. and cpu fan said 25000rpm wich i know is false since the case would be lifting of the ground at those speeds.. so maybe i should not be so worried..


----------



## LesPaulLover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panickypress;14688632*
> so maybe i should not be so worried..


Phew well I kinda feel the same way now that I know I'm not the only person this is happening to.

My temps WERE reading exactly what yours are showing before I updated my BIOS using the @BIOS program.

That lowered the "perceived" temp spikes from 110c+ to EXACTLY 89, 90, or 91c.

Are you MAX temps always the same reading also?

**EDIT** I'm on a UD3 MOBO not a UD7.


----------



## LesPaulLover

I'm running a log with AMD Overdrive right now to see if I can trigger another temp spike while running both AMD Overdriver and HWMonitor.

If I see a temp spike in both then I'm really gonna be worried.

That would rule out a software problem meaning that it's a either a faulty sensor or worse some type of hardware issue.


----------



## LesPaulLover

Good news here I think....

HWMonitor showing 89c Temp spike on TMPIN2 again....

AMD Overdrive log did **NOT** show a temp spike.

Gonna do a cold reboot and run both monitors again til HWMonitor shows another spike.


----------



## Panickypress

the picture from before was with optimized settings in bios except for the auto cpu fan speed dissabled, wich is controlled by my pump via the usb on the antec 920.. this picture here is with multiplier only oc to 3,8 ghz and theres no real difference.. but i found that i can trigger the faulty fanspeed and tmpin readings by turning the fans to max 2300rpm. strangely i also get voltagepeaks that are up to 1.9v doing this.


----------



## LesPaulLover

Looks to be an HWMonitor error...AMD Overdrive Logging never shows any spikes. This makes me happy. However.....










The heatsink circled in red gets ***EXTREMELY*** hot. Is this normal? I'm talking to hot to touch it for more than 3 or 4 seconds; it would probably burn me.

The GREEN ARROWS represent 2x 560 sli.

I'm hoping this means it's doing it's job. But it also means I'm gonna need ANOTHER fan. The dual 560s were a mistake. I might return them both and just buy a 580 or something.

I have 1 fan on the side of my case...with room for a 2nd. Right now it's best in the bottom slot blasting ice cold air on BOTH GPUs. However in the top slot, it keeps that RED heatsink sugnificantly cooler to the touch.


----------



## LesPaulLover

Feedback from all would be appreciated. This is my first build and I'll need to return parts ASAP if I ****ed something up.


----------



## Hillatoppah

THE SYSTEM HAS EXPERIENCED BOOT FAIL DUE TO OVERCLOCK
?? every time i try to over clock higher then 3.7 ghz i get this
mb = Gigabyte GA-990FXA-D3
CPU = AMD Phenom II X6 1055T
Ram = G.Skill Ripjaws F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3
what bio settings should i use to get to 4ghz with out error


----------



## rawsteel

My 990FXA-UD5 has an idle temp of 56C for TMPIN2 with everything running at stock settings, i think somebody forgot to put thermal paste on my NB..lol


----------



## rawsteel

An Interesting 990FXA-UD7 Review

http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/45510-990fxa-ud7-review-analysis-ripple-testing-benchmarks.html


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel;14694491*
> My 990FXA-UD5 has an idle temp of 56C for TMPIN2 with everything running at stock settings, i think somebody forgot to put thermal paste on my NB..lol


really? are you sirius about that?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Hope this isn't a silly question, but those of you who updated the firmware on your F3 drives, how did you get it to work? The instructions mention to run 'Patch' but I don't know where that is/how to find it/if I even have it. I copied the F3.exe from the downloaded .zip and put it on a bootable flash drive, then tried opening the application through command prompt.


----------



## major1337

@spiderm0nkey
its verry simple...
shut down your pc, unplug all your drives (hdd and cd/dvd), plug the corrupt hdd to primary sata cable, turn your pc on, boot to dos drive where the update is, type f3.exe and hit enter.
if nothing happens, dont worry, unplug the power of your corrupt hdd and plug it back in and type again f3.exe and hit enter... it works for me.
oh jea forgot to mention, the prompt message should be longer and tell you that the flasprogress is going on. wait for about 20-30 seconds and the flash is done... but the program tells you when its done... there is a blank c:\


----------



## Zeek

UD3 should be arriving today! or tomorrow :-/ cant wait! even though it seems you guys are having problems its a good upgrade from my mobo


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel;14694778*
> An Interesting 990FXA-UD7 Review
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/45510-990fxa-ud7-review-analysis-ripple-testing-benchmarks.html


Yep that review was done by Sin0822








http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1086462-990fxa-ud7-review-analysis-ripple-testing.html

Edit: Thank you for posting and sharing in case anyone had not seen it before


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14696228*
> @spiderm0nkey
> its verry simple...
> shut down your pc, unplug all your drives (hdd and cd/dvd), plug the corrupt hdd to primary sata cable, turn your pc on, boot to dos drive where the update is, type f3.exe and hit enter.
> if nothing happens, dont worry, unplug the power of your corrupt hdd and plug it back in and type again f3.exe and hit enter... it works for me.
> oh jea forgot to mention, the prompt message should be longer and tell you that the flasprogress is going on. wait for about 20-30 seconds and the flash is done... but the program tells you when its done... there is a blank c:\


I did it in a different system to this one. Did the f3.exe thing, nothing happened but I plugged the drive back into my system and it didn't work. I'll try again tonight though.


----------



## major1337

the first time i try it, it was the same... nothing works... but after i boot to dos and unplug and plug back in the powercable, all works great... its the power cable...not the sata cable... and the pc must run when you do that...

its verry strange that your hdd dosnt work in other systems... mybe its dead?


----------



## bicen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rawsteel*


My 990FXA-UD5 has an idle temp of 56C for TMPIN2 with everything running at stock settings, i think somebody forgot to put thermal paste on my NB..lol


Mine is sitting Idle at about 50c, but that is with 3000MHz NB


----------



## bicen

You Tube  



 
 interesting vdroop mod


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Hope this isn't a silly question, but those of you who updated the firmware on your F3 drives, how did you get it to work? The instructions mention to run 'Patch' but I don't know where that is/how to find it/if I even have it. I copied the F3.exe from the downloaded .zip and put it on a bootable flash drive, then tried opening the application through command prompt.


Needs to be run from DOS. Cant be run from cmd prompt...

I updated both of mine from a boot flash drive, Just changed my controller settings to native Ide, booted DOS and ran f3.exe. It found and updated both drives. Rebooted, Changed back to raid... booted windows like a boss.

All set, thanks again for the heads up on this. My drive no longer click (which is funny cuz I couldn't hear them doing that before it was mentioned here)...









Thanks For the Infoz all around.. Ya'll rock.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14700238*
> the first time i try it, it was the same... nothing works... but after i boot to dos and unplug and plug back in the powercable, all works great... its the power cable...not the sata cable... and the pc must run when you do that...
> 
> its verry strange that your hdd dosnt work in other systems... mybe its dead?


Heh, I think you may have misread. The drive works in every system other than mine. I attempted to flash it in another system because it won't spin up in mine at all. Kinda hard to upgrade the firmware on a drive when it won't even turn on haha.

EDIT: @MadGoat, thanks! That's why it didn't work haha. I must admit I've never had to do this before so didn't have the first clue on how to get it to work. I'll get my partner to do the flash for me tonight. DOS is a bit before my time


----------



## major1337

oh, the hdd works in other pc´s? ok i missunderstand it... im from germany =)

try dos... its nothing complicated...
1. create a bootable dos flash-drive. (just google to usb dos)
2. copy the f3.exe to your bootable dos flash-drive
3. wait till blank c:/, than its booted
4. type: dir, hit enter and look if the f3.exe is there
5. after you found f3.exe, type it down: f3.exe
if nothing happens,
6. unplug your hdd and plug it back on, now the hdd spins up.
7. type again f3.exe and hit enter.

now it should be fine.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14703925*
> ... DOS is a bit before my time


lol that made me feel old


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14705769*
> oh, the hdd works in other pc´s? ok i missunderstand it... im from germany =)
> 
> try dos... its nothing complicated...
> 1. create a bootable dos flash-drive. (just google to usb dos)
> 2. copy the f3.exe to your bootable dos flash-drive
> 3. wait till blank c:/, than its booted
> 4. type: dir, hit enter and look if the f3.exe is there
> 5. after you found f3.exe, type it down: f3.exe
> if nothing happens,
> 6. unplug your hdd and plug it back on, now the hdd spins up.
> 7. type again f3.exe and hit enter.
> 
> now it should be fine.


Thanks heaps







About to try it now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;14706227*
> lol that made me feel old


Heh, I'm only 19. My first computer ran Windows 95 and I didn't get into computers until about 3 years ago


----------



## major1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;14706227*
> lol that made me feel old


lool, i thougt the same ^^
i am 29 and i start with windows 95 as well... but with windows 95 you need dos =)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14707590*
> lool, i thougt the same ^^
> i am 29 and i start with windows 95 as well... but with windows 95 you need dos =)


Bear in mind I was about 5 at the time so I didn't exactly get too heavily involved haha. The extent of my computer usage was to play Electroman and Jazz the Jackrabbit


----------



## Contagious Specialist

Sorry if I put this in the wrong place, but I figured this would be a good place to post this.

Running SLI on this setup, and I'm holding off on OCing till I get a BD. Before I was running both cards in the x16 slots. The temps were high (obviously). I ran a bench mark with these results.










So a few minutes ago I changed the card to the bottom x8 slot. I'm well aware of the percentage drop. I was concerned about temps. But something doesn't seen right to me. But IDK, I'm just a noob










What does everyone think of this? or does this seem about right?


----------



## rawsteel

If your still running XP SP3 you might want to read this after i noticed my AMD Cool n' Quiet wasent working resulting in higher idle temps, being a new AMD user for only a few weeks i had no idea this was causing higher temps at idle compared to others... face palm

http://forums.amd.com/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=11&threadid=99410


----------



## WOLF81

Perfect thread for me 'ere,


----------



## rawsteel

Well to cut a long story short im haveing the same problem as this guy..

http://www.tomshardware.com/ forum/264039-29-weird-problem-temps-drop-sleep-mode

But its my North Bridge thats giving me different temp readings from normal boot then waking the PC up from Hibernation, after i boot it will idle around 49C while doing light tasks (web browsing etc...) but if i wake it from Hibernation it will idle around 37C doing the same tasks even after 4 hours only when i reboot the PC it go's back, why would the temps be different..? all readings are taken with HWMonitor 1.18 and HWiNFO32 using the latest BIOS for my board


----------



## Benz

Sorry!

The page you requested couldn't be found

I have a question if someone has the knowledge to answer me.

Why are they so damn persistent on integrating Realtek's sound cards on every damn 990FX board available today? They're crap, I've never seen a biggest crap then Realtek is. They should consider integrating Intel HD Audio Via VT2020 on every board, they're sooooooo much better in comparison that I can't even imagine to compare them. I can't see any difference between my X-Fi Titanium and the Intel's Via VT2020. My friend has a Crosshair V Fromula and when I heard the sound coming from that card I was amazed by it. So if anyone has understanding about these things, feel free to enlighten me.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14748469*
> Sorry!
> 
> The page you requested couldn't be found
> 
> I have a question if someone has the knowledge to answer me.
> 
> Why are they so damn persistent on integrating Realtek's sound cards on every damn 990FX board available today? They're crap, I've never seen a biggest crap then Realtek is. They should consider integrating Intel HD Audio Via VT2020 on every board, they're sooooooo much better in comparison that I can't even imagine to compare them. I can't see any difference between my X-Fi Titanium and the Intel's Via VT2020. My friend has a Crosshair V Fromula and when I heard the sound coming from that card I was amazed by it. So if anyone has understanding about these things, feel free to enlighten me.


Well actually both chips (realtek and intel) are crap XD... you know if you have a motherboard that cos more than a hundred dollars... Why you still using integrated sound chips?? the thing is ppl should get at least an asus sound card around 30 dollars instead of hope that integrated graphics are a solution.


----------



## Benz

Intel's Via VT2020 is way better than a Realtek's ALC889. My friend and I have Genius SW-HF5.1 6000 speakers, (they're the same as Logitech Z-2300) when I plug them in my onboard card the sound is very very crappy, but when I hear his sound on Via VT2020 the sound is incomparable, I'm guessing Via has way better integrated chips.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Intel's Via VT2020 is way better than a Realtek's ALC889. My friend and I have Genius SW-HF5.1 6000 speakers, (they're the same as Logitech Z-2300) when I plug them in my onboard card the sound is very very crappy, but when I hear his sound on Via VT2020 the sound is incomparable, I'm guessing Via has way better integrated chips.


XD if a Logitech Z-2300 fan (me for example XD) read this... i'm sure he is gonna hate you cos... this is blasphemy!!!









I test the sound of the realtek chip using an amp (my beloved Matrix M-Stage) and it sounds good. I also test it with my Asus xonar and the creative card of my sign and sounds better but the only noticeable when using high quality cans like my beyerdynamic 880, i love those puppies!.

However they (realtek and intel) might sound better if you use a set of speakers... but not for the quality of the output signal comming from any of those chips.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LesPaulLover;14688560*
> Are those high temps actually sustained?
> 
> I'm having a near identical problem --- only I'm showing TMPIN0 and TMPIN2 temp SPIKES at 89 - 90c.
> 
> The spikes are near instantaneous and I would have no idea were it not for HWMonitor.
> 
> Are there any other Hardware monitoring programs that record a min/max like HWMonitor does!?!?
> 
> Example here and more in my thread below:


whats that 2.6V vcore?


----------



## solar0987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Contagious Specialist;14725638*
> Sorry if I put this in the wrong place, but I figured this would be a good place to post this.
> 
> Running SLI on this setup, and I'm holding off on OCing till I get a BD. Before I was running both cards in the x16 slots. The temps were high (obviously). I ran a bench mark with these results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a few minutes ago I changed the card to the bottom x8 slot. I'm well aware of the percentage drop. I was concerned about temps. But something doesn't seen right to me. But IDK, I'm just a noob
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does everyone think of this? or does this seem about right?


Looks about right to me overclock that processor and nb and watch the score go up


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;14750654*
> XD if a Logitech Z-2300 fan (me for example XD) read this... i'm sure he is gonna hate you cos... this is blasphemy!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I test the sound of the realtek chip using an amp (my beloved Matrix M-Stage) and it sounds good. I also test it with my Asus xonar and the creative card of my sign and sounds better but the only noticeable when using high quality cans like my beyerdynamic 880, i love those puppies!.
> 
> However they (realtek and intel) might sound better if you use a set of speakers... but not for the quality of the output signal comming from any of those chips.


I had Z-2300, they burned in a few months, then I got myself a Genius SW-HF5.1 6000 speakers, they don't really differ from Z-2300 in sound quality. I have a Creative X-Fi Titanium and I'm sure I'd notice if there was any difference between them.


----------



## Benz

Dear XXXXX,

Thank you again for your kindly mail. We suggest you send your MB to your supplier for further examination, you can also ask them to test with another CPU which can support CPU unlock.

Regards,
GIGABYTE

They call this help? Is this about as useful as they get?

If this is true, then they should be ashamed of their selves. I don't know which MB vendor I can trust, Asus support is crap, MSI support is crap and even GIGABYTE support is crap.

Omg the guy seriously has the nerve to tell me **** like that. (sorry for the words but I'm really pissed right now) I mean does he even know what I've been through the last time with 990FXA-GD65? They didn't want to refund my money so I almost took the guy's head off. Godda** incompetent morons, this is apparently their answer to all people because they don't wanna admit their mistakes or they simply don't give a **** about anything.

I probably wouldn't be so pissed if they wouldn't have sent me this kinda mail.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

At least they call you "Dear" XD


----------



## mystikalrush

Okay folks, for you lucky UD3 Owners, i have gotten the OFFICIAL F3 BIOS, Change log from Gigabyte:

The finalize F3 bios is attached for your reference. It added the following updates in this update.
1. Update AGESA V5 to 0.0.9.2, support AM3+ CPU.
2. Add GIGABYTE E.O.C.P support.
3. Add Load Line support (PCB 1.1).
4. Add Dolby home theater v4 support.
Add TOUCH BIOS support.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14761460*
> Okay folks, for you lucky UD3 Owners, i have gotten the OFFICIAL F3 BIOS, Change log from Gigabyte:
> 
> The finalize F3 bios is attached for your reference. It added the following updates in this update.
> 1. Update AGESA V5 to 0.0.9.2, support AM3+ CPU.
> 2. Add GIGABYTE E.O.C.P support.
> 3. Add Load Line support (PCB 1.1).
> 4. Add Dolby home theater v4 support.
> Add TOUCH BIOS support.


Thank you kindly. Got a bit worried that we ran out of updates.


----------



## Contagious Specialist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solar0987;14754767*
> Looks about right to me overclock that processor and nb and watch the score go up


I'm still new to this, and I'm having a hard time getting a stable OC. I believe the 16gb ram might be my problem, but once again being a n00b owns me.

I also got a new monitor. At 1920x1080 I saw a drop in performance in benchmarks. I tried all basic trouble shooting first, so I guess it is what it is. I'll keep working at OCing then I'll post my results.

Thanks.


----------



## musicman1953

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14761460*
> Okay folks, for you lucky UD3 Owners, i have gotten the OFFICIAL F3 BIOS, Change log from Gigabyte:
> 
> The finalize F3 bios is attached for your reference. It added the following updates in this update.
> 1. Update AGESA V5 to 0.0.9.2, support AM3+ CPU.
> 2. Add GIGABYTE E.O.C.P support.
> 3. Add Load Line support (PCB 1.1).
> 4. Add Dolby home theater v4 support.
> Add TOUCH BIOS support.


HOW come it's not on the GIGABYTE site then?


----------



## mystikalrush

There slow i guess, i just got that file from email tech support.


----------



## nukedukem86

Lucky UD3 owners... Regretting getting the UD5, wish they would get it together and add LLC to the UD5 bios.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

*GA-990FXA-UD3 F3* BIOS!!! The Official links!

Here! XD

Code:



Code:


http://download.gigabyte.cn/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-990fxa-ud3_f3.exe
http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-990fxa-ud3_f3.exe
http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-990fxa-ud3_f3.exe











Now gonna look for some slic job XD (if you know what i mean







)


----------



## nyates

So... The UD3 doesn't boot quite as fast as my old Asus. The screen where it says 'Loading Operating System' takes a couple seconds... Any way to enable a quick boot or something that would skip that? Or... Cut the time down at all? It's really like a 2 second thing, no not a big deal... Just curious.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyates;14763127*
> So... The UD3 doesn't boot quite as fast as my old Asus. The screen where it says 'Loading Operating System' takes a couple seconds... Any way to enable a quick boot or something that would skip that? Or... Cut the time down at all? It's really like a 2 second thing, no not a big deal... Just curious.


Try disabling usb legacy suport in BIOS. Test and post results.









@Mystikalrush
Please post the links on Gigabyte suport forum so more ppl can test this new bios release


----------



## musicman1953

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14761460*
> Okay folks, for you lucky UD3 Owners, i have gotten the OFFICIAL F3 BIOS, Change log from Gigabyte:
> 
> The finalize F3 bios is attached for your reference. It added the following updates in this update.
> 1. Update AGESA V5 to 0.0.9.2, support AM3+ CPU.
> 2. Add GIGABYTE E.O.C.P support.
> 3. Add Load Line support (PCB 1.1).
> 4. Add Dolby home theater v4 support.
> Add TOUCH BIOS support.


Installed it.............
BUT!...........
2. Add GIGABYTE E.O.C.P support. =Was there in the last F3 beta

3. Add Load Line support (PCB 1.1). = So where is it then?
4.Add Load Line support for a different pcb? pcb1.1????
Add Touch Bios support????
Only thing that you can actually see is the entry for E.O.C.P(supposed added features)


----------



## Benz

And the unlocker still doesn't work properly... AGAIN!


----------



## Pretendica

Hi, 1st post. Love the site, and now I have a reason to join. I upgraded to the new bios, but I'm having trouble with the Dolby Digital. Do I turn that on through the realtek gui? I don't see the tab in windows sound properties.

Also, I'm interested in getting to 4ghz with my 970, what advice could you give?


----------



## Evil Penguin

Wait a minute... 
A revised PCB is required to enable LLC?!


----------



## Karossua

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*


Wait a minute... 
A revised PCB is required to enable LLC?!


That's is correct....Somebody lied, and I know who they are but it would be too obvious to mention.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Two things...
Either LLC works for the UD7 rev.1.0 or vdrop isn't as bad for BD. 
If not, I'll sell this board and get the CHV.


----------



## mxthunder

what a joke. i may sell this dam board too.

on a side note:
http://www.ekwaterblocks.com/shop/bl...en-nickel.html

wonder when it will be available from an american store.


----------



## iSeries

Does anyone know if the F5 BIOS posted on Gigabyte's website on 29th Aug supersedes the F5c beta BIOS I have?


----------



## mystikalrush

Yes F5 is the official, all others following a letter are beta bios. Just like the F3 for my UD3 board which i had used F3b,f,g and finally F3 which is also dated 8/29/11 date.


----------



## musicman1953

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14775230*
> Yes F5 is the official, all others following a letter are beta bios. Just like the F3 for my UD3 board which i had used F3b,f,g and finally F3 which is also dated 8/29/11 date.


I emailed Gigabyte tech and they asked where it was supoosed to be downladable from.
They say it is not official.
Also what is the point of a supposed bios for the GA-990FXA-UD3 version 1 board and said bios has only one visable extra setting and non visable touch bios support for a board that does not allow touch bios?
Also why release a bios for the 990FXA -UD3 that has a feature only for a rev 1.1 board that does not exist?
THIS is what the changes are(what changes), this is from the official Gigabyte site....
1.Update CPU AGESA 0.0.9.2 for AM3+
2.Update Dolby Home Theater version

Can anyone see where it says about ANYTHING regarding a Rev 1.1 board?
Nope, it don't....


----------



## mystikalrush

Interesting thing i ran into today, sense all the motherboards got a new version of BIOs they seemed to now officially work with up comming bulldozer cpus. Here is a list of compatibile CPUs for AM3+ boards. (Was not specifically listed prior to current 8/29/11 bios updates for all boards)


----------



## nub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14777430*
> Interesting thing i ran into today, sense all the motherboards got a new version of BIOs they seemed to now officially work with up comming bulldozer cpus. Here is a list of compatibile CPUs for AM3+ boards. (Was not specifically listed prior to current 8/29/11 bios updates for all boards)


Have not seen that info posted here before re. bulldozer - re. model numbers and frequencies. Very good find.


----------



## musicman1953

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14777430*
> Interesting thing i ran into today, sense all the motherboards got a new version of BIOs they seemed to now officially work with up comming bulldozer cpus. Here is a list of compatibile CPUs for AM3+ boards. (Was not specifically listed prior to current 8/29/11 bios updates for all boards)


THIS is from the Gigabyte site:
F4
1.Update CPU AGESA 0.0.9.2 for AM3+
2.Update Dolby Home Theater version
3.Add Touch BIOS support
Taken from the bios download page for the FXA-UD7

Nowhere on Gigabyte download page for FXA-UD3 bios does it show an F3 bios with those added items.


----------



## spiritfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *musicman1953;14782189*
> 
> THIS is from the Gigabyte site:
> F4
> 1.Update CPU AGESA 0.0.9.2 for AM3+
> 2.Update Dolby Home Theater version
> 3.Add Touch BIOS support
> Taken from the bios download page for the FXA-UD7
> 
> Nowhere on Gigabyte download page for FXA-UD3 bios does it show an F3 bios with those added items.


Is Touch BIOS only for UD-7 and UD3? I saw in Gigabyte website, it didn't show "Add Touch BIOS support" in UD-5 BIOS. I ask because I wanna to buy UD-5 soon, so I want to make sure it has also.


----------



## X-Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiritfire;14784025*
> Is Touch BIOS only for UD-7 and UD3? I saw in Gigabyte website, it didn't show "Add Touch BIOS support" in UD-5 BIOS. I ask because I wanna to buy UD-5 soon, so I want to make sure it has also.


I'm wondering the same as above.

As well, it seems the ONLY difference between the UD5 and the UD7 is an extra PCI 2.0 slot and the gold striping instead of blue. And they want an extra 70 bucks for that. Or is there something else I'm not seeing in the specs?


----------



## musicman1953

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiritfire;14784025*
> Is Touch BIOS only for UD-7 and UD3? I saw in Gigabyte website, it didn't show "Add Touch BIOS support" in UD-5 BIOS. I ask because I wanna to buy UD-5 soon, so I want to make sure it has also.


Else where I have been moaned at in a roundabout way regarding the so called F3 for 990FXA-UD3 that has been talked about on here.
Regardless of what certain people have said, this F3 bios(official)does NOT include the use of"touch bios" or any form of control for cpu vdroop or whatever.
HOW can a bios that is a regular bios include support for"touch bios"?
Also there was some mention of a certain setting for a rev 1.1 board?
Again that makes no sense(settings for a rev 1.1 board when it is a rev 1.0 board???
It can be proved that text regarding settings for the UD7 board have been included or added to the actual text for what is a 990FXA-UD3 board.
Fact: there is no support for touch bios in the F3 bios for the 990FXA-UD3 nor is there support for any form of control for vdroop.


----------



## kzone75

BIOS F4 for UD3 is up for grabs.







http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894#bios

Modify TPM compatibility..


----------



## mystikalrush

ooouu nice find! Thanks.


----------



## major1337

thx for the update... but the dolby home theater dont work for me.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14787597*
> thx for the update... but the dolby home theater dont work for me.


Same here. Tried to reinstall dolby again from the drivers disk that came with the mobo, but it fails. Maybe we'll get another update for that tomorrow..


----------



## major1337

i installed the new audio driver from gigabyte and it seams to work for me... i try it now report later

*edit*
nope... no bass management.... grrrrr... >(


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14787839*
> i installed the new audio driver from gigabyte and it seams to work for me... i try it now report later


Awesome! Now it works.







Almost blew my ears off at logon.. Only thing missing now is BD.


----------



## major1337

it works great but i cant setup my subwoofer...






















the best thing on a teufel audio system is the bass...


----------



## Zeek

Dobly theater took realtek away lol. Does it matter? and I feel that my pc now boots up slower since I flashed to f4 :-/


----------



## mystikalrush

What a different now that dolby is working, having a bit of trouble using 4.1 settings though.


----------



## major1337

did your sub work?


----------



## el gappo

I thought the vdroop wasn't as bad on the UD3?

Won a UD5 today, think I'll get the hardmod done and leave it alone till BD


----------



## MadGoat

still running F3b ... And everything is running decent so far... Im scurrd to update lol!

What is TPM btw?

EDIT: A trusted platform module (TPM) is a specialized chip that can be installed on the motherboard of a personal computer for the purpose of hardware authentication . The TPM authenticates the computer in question rather than the user. To do so, TPM stores information specific to the host system, such as encryption keys, digital certificate s and password s.


----------



## major1337

my audiosystem dont run under f3b aswell... just with the official f2... and now im gonna downgrade my bios back to f2...

did someone know in what they write the bios files??? is that assambler?

*edit*
ok, back on f2 and evrything is great ^^


----------



## MadGoat

major,

Could your audio issue be related to the driver you are using? I didn't bother with any driver from gigabyte and went straight to their respective sources to get the most recent drivers and haven't had problems near what you've had.

http://www.realtek.com.tw/DOWNLOADS/

I know your back to F2 now... But its possible that an updated realtek driver and the new bios might work for ya...


----------



## major1337

hi MadGoat,
thx for the hint but i´ve allready try it... and it dont work...
did you have a 5.1 dolby system? and it works?


----------



## Zeek

Anyone know if this mobo will ever get a UEFI bios? I hate this blue plain one


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeek;14789797*
> Anyone know if this mobo will ever get a UEFI bios? I hate this blue plain one


Nope. Unless someone from Asus can help out Gigabyte, I doubt they will adobt UEFI anytime soon.


----------



## major1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeek;14789797*
> Anyone know if this mobo will ever get a UEFI bios? I hate this blue plain one


sry, but did you realy need that gui??? its the same as the old standard bios text based look...


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

There are new sound drivers on Gigabyte site

Realtek Function driver for Realtek Azalia audio chip
(Including Microsoft UAA Driver in English edition)
5.10.0.643398.38 MB
2011/08/26

You might wana check that


----------



## LBear

Anyone using the the Marvell 9128 AHCI? I want to know if they give better performance than the AMD AHCI.


----------



## Zeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14789892*
> sry, but did you realy need that gui??? its the same as the old standard bios text based look...


I know that but Its been the same old thing forever. Ive only used gigabyte mobos but I think its time for gigabyte to update their bios. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear;14790208*
> Anyone using the the Marvell 9128 AHCI? I want to know if they give better performance than the AMD AHCI.


I doubt it but I can test that and raid when mine arrives.


----------



## Capta1nKirk

Joining the club, with a sincere thank you to those that have contributed to this thread.

Good stuff.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14789892*
> sry, but did you realy need that gui??? its the same as the old standard bios text based look...


You really must learn to differentiate *do* and *did*, cause sometimes I'm getting hard time understanding what you're saying.


----------



## spiritfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *musicman1953;14786486*
> Else where I have been moaned at in a roundabout way regarding the so called F3 for 990FXA-UD3 that has been talked about on here.
> Regardless of what certain people have said, this F3 bios(official)does NOT include the use of"touch bios" or any form of control for cpu vdroop or whatever.
> HOW can a bios that is a regular bios include support for"touch bios"?
> Also there was some mention of a certain setting for a rev 1.1 board?
> Again that makes no sense(settings for a rev 1.1 board when it is a rev 1.0 board???
> It can be proved that text regarding settings for the UD7 board have been included or added to the actual text for what is a 990FXA-UD3 board.
> Fact: there is no support for touch bios in the F3 bios for the 990FXA-UD3 nor is there support for any form of control for vdroop.


I think I'm wrong about series that have "Touch BIOS". It has only UD7 and D3. Sorry about that.

OH! Does anyone try Touch BIOS? Is it same as C5F BIOS?


----------



## psychrage

UD5 here. F5 Bios and Dolby works for me. Just make sure you install the new Realtek driver package.


----------



## tw33k

After flasing to F5, nothing will display my CPU core temps. Everything I tried, AIDA64, SpeedFan, HWMonitor, Core Temp all say 0c


----------



## psychrage

Having 'Unlock All Cores' on makes that happen for me. of course my 965 doesn't need any cores unlocked.

Try turning that off.


----------



## tw33k

That did it. Thanks mate


----------



## psychrage

No problem. Now if someone could get Gigabyte to address the v-boost/v-droop issue. I don't see BD architecture also calling for droop at the ram


----------



## major1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14790417*
> You really must learn to differentiate *do* and *did*, cause sometimes I'm getting hard time understanding what you're saying.


yea sry m8, you´re right... im not so good in english grammar.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *major1337;14789735*
> hi MadGoat,
> thx for the hint but i´ve allready try it... and it dont work...
> did you have a 5.1 dolby system? and it works?


Yeah,

not once through any of the bios's have i lost my 5.1 dolby... strange indeed...

I am however using drivers straight from realtek as i mentioned earlier... Im happy with the way its running so far (outside of this craptastic athlon x3 c2 step... no L3 and horrid clocks)

guess ill sit tight and wait till either new chips, or something decent gets released bios wise that i can utilize.


----------



## tw33k

The Dolby Home Theater works great for me. The problem now is setting everything up for the best sound quality


----------



## robbo2

Just got this board today but having trouble getting my raid back up and running. Every time I try and load the drivers during windows install I get the 'Drivers not digitally certified' crap


----------



## ssr003

Hi all. I'm new here been doing some reading in this thread.i recently bought 990FXA-UD3 and 1090T processor.
im looking at advice in purchasing components to finish build.

1. im considering this ram http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-240-Pin-Platforms-CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9/dp/B004CRSM4I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1315057168&sr=8-1]Amazon.com: Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 Memory Kit for Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and AMD Platforms SDRAM CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9: Electronics[/URL] will this work well?

2. looking at this cpu cooler corsair H60 http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Cooling-Hydro--High-Performance-CWCH60/dp/B004MYFOE2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1315056658&sr=1-1]Amazon.com: Corsair Cooling Hydro-Series All-in-One High-Performance Liquid CPU Cooler CWCH60: Electronics[/URL] anyone has experience with this cooler (fitment issues etc)?

3. graphics; looking at 2 of these in SLI: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce%C2%AE-GDDR5-PCI-Express-01G-P3-1556-KR/dp/B004R9OVE6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1315056752&sr=1-1


----------



## Zeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssr003;14807365*
> Hi all. I'm new here been doing some reading in this thread.i recently bought 990FXA-UD3 and 1090T processor.
> im looking at advice in purchasing components to finish build.
> 
> 1. im considering this ram Amazon.com: Corsair Vengeance 8 GB ( 2 x 4 GB ) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) 240-Pin DDR3 Memory Kit for Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and AMD Platforms SDRAM CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9: Electronics will this work well?
> 
> 2. looking at this cpu cooler corsair H60 Amazon.com: Corsair Cooling Hydro-Series All-in-One High-Performance Liquid CPU Cooler CWCH60: Electronics anyone has experience with this cooler (fitment issues etc)?
> 
> 3. graphics; looking at 2 of these in SLI: http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce%C2%AE-GDDR5-PCI-Express-01G-P3-1556-KR/dp/B004R9OVE6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1315056752&sr=1-1


I would suggest a H80 instead of a H60 and for sli get 2 560 Ti's intstead of the 550s. Whats your budget?


----------



## mystikalrush

Do yall fine disableing AMD cool and quiet to help OC'ing better in, temp, voltage, and frequences or does it really not change anything at all?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;14808937*
> Do yall fine disableing AMD cool and quiet to help OC'ing better in, temp, voltage, and frequences or does it really not change anything at all?


It seems like CnQ does not work when you use settings other than auto on voltage and the multi. I have it enabled right now, but it's not doing anything. Might be some other reason, trying to google it now.


----------



## mystikalrush

Well for my daily use i have the multi changed, and it does downclock while the speed isnt needed, but i think your right about the voltage.


----------



## MadGoat

My Voltage and multi changes with CnQ...

240 fsb, 1.55v and 15x multi. Clocks down to 4x multi and 1.21v for low operation and 9x - 1.36 for mid.

Might effect OC because of the intermediate clocks if i wanted to push higher. But for my OC's I always factor in CnQ. I think its worth it considering my comp is idle 75% of the time. (CnQ combined with S3 is a win win...)


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Works fine for me too. Downclocks to 800mHz and just under 1v if I remember correctly.


----------



## fidof650

For some reason I was given to believe that C&Q worked up to 3.7GHz and at 3.8GHz it stopped working automatically. Can anyone verify that or am I loosing my marbles?

~fidof650


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650;14812743*
> For some reason I was given to believe that C&Q worked up to 3.7GHz and at 3.8GHz it stopped working automatically. Can anyone verify that or am I loosing my marbles?
> 
> ~fidof650


My OC is 4GHz and C&Q still works fine.


----------



## MadGoat

I do know it will stop working at a certain point of oc on both my am2 and am3+ systems.
I think it just stops at an amount over the rated processors speed...

example, my 940 chip will do 3.7 (with a crazy amount of voltage and isn't stable)... and in doing so CnQ just flat disables. but 3625 and it still works fine...


----------



## robbo2

Does anyone else have issues with this board and the vdroop and the really unstable voltage? It jumps all over the place







Hope this is fixed with the bulldozer chips.


----------



## Lordred

Gigabytes official response is that the LLC of the UD5 is designed with Zambezi in mind.

But I was bored one day and tested out 4ghz on my 1055t lieing around on the UD5

With C1E and CnQ on the CPU would come down to an idle of 903mhz @ 1.38v lol

Idle voltage rises to 1.632 and load drops to 1.505. The Voltage was set to 1.575


----------



## iSeries

Lordred, could you push me in the direction of where you heard that the LLC vdroop / vboost is designed with Zambezi in mind? The official response I got from Gigabyte is this:

"GIGABYTE 990 series motherboards strictly follow the AMD *AM3+* load line calibration design guide, and so CPU V-core voltage will drop according to loading. Such calibrations are built into the platform to protect the user's purchase and prevent damage to the PC system."

AM3+ is a backwards-compatible socket so I would expect the board to behave in exactly the same way with my 1055t as it would with BD. When BD is finally released and I throw one of them into the UD5, if it behaves exactly the same voltage wise I will sell it and get another brand AM3+ board. It's only us Gigabyte owners complaining of vdroop / vboost, as they havent seen fit to give us any form of LLC control as seen in Asus boards etc.


----------



## robbo2

Pretty much what I was wondering. Why is this only on gigabyte boards? I think I will also sell this board if it acts this way with a BD chip in it. Do not like it one bit.


----------



## Benz

My GA-990FXA-UD3 doesn't have vdroop issue.



Maybe you should exchange your UD5 for the UD3. Just my personal recommendation.


----------



## musicman1953

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14816610*
> My GA-990FXA-UD3 doesn't have vdroop issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you should exchange your UD5 for the UD3. Just my personal recommendation.


Nor does mine as such but the board boosts cpu volts and drops cpu volts under usage.
Get something to monitor the cpu under load and you will see the cpu volts drop and rise..............


----------



## Benz

Yes they do, but insignificantly. Mine drops from 1.456v to 1.448v, that's nothing compared to the UD5 and the UD7.


----------



## Frazz

It really gets to me seeing all these 1055t's beating my 1090t







. Ohwell there really the same cpu in the end.


----------



## Rocket Dog

Voltages are high for your boards, I can do 4Ghz 50 runs intel burn test stable on 1.42v

Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk


----------



## Lordred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSeries;14816332*
> Lordred, could you push me in the direction of where you heard that the LLC vdroop / vboost is designed with Zambezi in mind? The official response I got from Gigabyte is this:
> 
> "GIGABYTE 990 series motherboards strictly follow the AMD *AM3+* load line calibration design guide, and so CPU V-core voltage will drop according to loading. Such calibrations are built into the platform to protect the user's purchase and prevent damage to the PC system."


http://www.techpowerup.com/144725/ASRock-Uses-Real-AM3+-Sockets-Lists-Out-Advantages-Over-AM3.html

Here is a series of slides by ASRock explaining how the voltage regulation works. The 990FXA-UD5 still has less vdroop then my 980a did so I'll just have to sit back and watch what happens as well.

However when it comes to my 1055t, its just a low binned SOB, my 1100T is much better needing much less voltage (1.45v bios, 1.376 load, 1.472 idle) Which seams to be following the load line calibration outlined in the slides.


----------



## musicman1953

Have a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 board and Windows XP Pro 64bit OS and have tried Windows 7 64bit...
both times it showed all 4Gb of ram.
Now after a bios update it shows only 3.99Gb out of 4Gb.....
Anyone have any idea why?


----------



## Benz

You're complaining about 1MB of RAM? Get serious man.


----------



## Karossua

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


You're complaining about 1MB of RAM? Get serious man.










It's not 1MB Ram, is 4096MB only dissapear 97MB...Very strange issue //


----------



## musicman1953

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Karossua*


It's not 1MB Ram, is 4096MB only dissapear 97MB...Very strange issue //










Weird............at bootup it shows only 4095MB
Reckon it's something on the motherboard doin it


----------



## spiderm0nkey

It's a strange issue for sure, but probably not one that will make any difference to your performance







Personally I'd be content with thinking it's just a random quirk and then forget about it.


----------



## GOTFrog

Just wondering whats the difference between UD3-UD5-UD7, Looking into buying this board other than the heatsink. lets say I grab the UD5 will I lose out alot compaared to UD7


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GOTFrog;14825485*
> Just wondering whats the difference between UD3-UD5-UD7, Looking into buying this board other than the heatsink. lets say I grab the UD5 will I lose out alot compaared to UD7


Check this:
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/comparison/list.aspx?ck=2&pids=3894,3891,3880

PD: Basically the changes and differences begin in the Expansion Slots section...


----------



## kzone75

And the Bulldozers are no longer on the compatibility list . oh sigh.. What is going on?


----------



## tw33k

I'm guessing AMD made them remove it


----------



## Zeek

I will go cry if BD isnt supported on this mobo. I got the mobo to upgrade when BD came out


----------



## tw33k

Of course it's supported. AMD probably got them to remove the info because it's not officially released yet


----------



## mystikalrush

Yeah they just got in trouble, all the BD news sites started to create: Gigabyte Leaks official BD Models, frequences, etc. info, so im sure AMD heard about it, though it did take quite a few days till it was removed, funny.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Lol yep. It was up long enough for people to get a good hard look at them. It got me more excited about BD though. I didn't even buy this board with the intention of getting BD when it came out. I just wanted an all black board to put my free 955 BE in lol (I had a 775 system before this).


----------



## kzone75

Anyone tried out the Turbo XHD yet? What's so extreme about it?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Lol yep. It was up long enough for people to get a good hard look at them. It got me more excited about BD though. I didn't even buy this board with the intention of getting BD when it came out. I just wanted an all black board to put my free 955 BE in lol (I had a 775 system before this).


+1 the UD3 is damn sexy dark XD


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2;14814670*
> Does anyone else have issues with this board and the vdroop and the really unstable voltage? It jumps all over the place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this is fixed with the bulldozer chips.


Just a thought but maybe everyone that either has one of these boards or like me is considering purchasing one should be asking Gigabyte to add some LLC options to the BIOS in one of the up coming updates to help with the Vboost Vdroop issues.


----------



## robbo2

Well the strange thing is at stock the voltages are rock steady at 1.344 yet when I go to apply my OC I need 1.525 in bios which under load is 1.44. That is ridiculous.


----------



## DNytAftr

Just picked up a GA-990FXA-UD7 mobo last week for $50 at microcenter from a pricing error







its my first AMD motherboard ive got, even though im an intel guy TBH im pretty excited to see what its capable of and it defiantly seems like it has the potential to deliver


----------



## spiderm0nkey

$50? Please leave lol. I am very jealous.


----------



## Lordred

Not cool! (actually very cool)


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNytAftr;14846791*
> Just picked up a GA-990FXA-UD7 mobo last week for $50 at microcenter from a pricing error


I hate you!









BTW: I'd like to get the memory spreadsheet populated before Bulldozer hits the shelves.

If anyone has had particularly good results with memory or particularly bad results please PM me in the following format:

Manufacture
Model Name
Motherboard Used
Capacity
Model Number
Speed
Stock Timings
Stock Voltage
Comments

*
Example:*
OCZ
AMD Black Edition
GA-990FXA-UD7
4GB
OCZ3BE1600C8LV4GK
DDR3 - 1600Mhz (PC3-12800)
8-8-8-24
1.65v
Comments: Unstable when set as rated.

Thanks for your participation!!!

~fidof650


----------



## psychrage

Fidof650, Is your "example" ram by any chance the ram you are using on this board?

I have that ram, and aside from vdroop causing me to have to pump 1.7v into the ram to get 1.65v, I don't have any problems with that ram at its 1600mhz / 8-8-8-24 setting


----------



## Cyberwaste

I'm having major issues with my UD5. Pretty sure it's memory voltage related. I get blue screens or just lockups which are more common when I increase the memory speed.

Corsair CMT8GX3M2A1866C9 is the memory. The system seems to run ok if I leave it at 1333mhz. The memory is said to require 1.65v when running above 1333 but when I set it to the spd settings it sets that yet still won't run stably.

If I push it to 1600 using the spd the bios tells me the power settings aren't optimised but it'll boot and run but not stable, if I set the power to auto it'll boot and not be stable.

If I set it to 1866 it'll boot sometimes and other times I'll get two long beeps then the bios resets to the defaults. Most of the time at 1866 when it does post it'll hang during the booting process.

Ten years ago I was into overclocking and whatnot but now I'm fairly lost so any help would be much appreciated. One of the blue screens said something about a usb port before it reset, which I thought was strange.

The entire system specs are;

GA-990FXA-UD5 bios F5
Phenom II X6 1090T BE
Corsair CMT8GX3M2A1866C9 8gb (unganged)
PSU OCZ 750watt
GeForce GTX570 Gainward GLH
3x 1tb hdd

EDIT: Just had a blue screen while at 1333, it said usbport.sys. Took everything out of the case, checked all the connections, put it all back in, now waiting to see if it'll bs again.

EDIT 2: Manually changed the ram multiplier to get to 1600 then manually set the ram voltage to 1.60, seems stable so far...


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage;14848189*
> Fidof650, Is your "example" ram by any chance the ram you are using on this board?
> 
> I have that ram, and aside from vdroop causing me to have to pump 1.7v into the ram to get 1.65v, I don't have any problems with that ram at its 1600mhz / 8-8-8-24 setting


Actually I had it for a short time on my GA-890FXA-UD5 until I RMA'd it. The ram was a disaster! I used to be an OCZ fan and used their memory in several builds however, I've had a run of bad luck with them in the last year. When I called them I learned that they had been trying various suppliers and that they weren't happy with any of them due to quality issues. I decided to let them experience their growing pains at someone else's expense.

I've had good luck with Mushkin enhanced although the jury is still out on this build until Bulldozer arrives... IF it arrives.

Glad to here you've had good fortune... must have got a good batch









~fidof650


----------



## ikem

ordered a ud5 today! cant wait


----------



## Tykjen

Eagerly awaiting my ud5+SSD. Great forum btw, no more lurking ^


----------



## Badness

Ahhh, the GA-990FXA-UD3... The board I should have gotten. It also looks better than the higher end models


----------



## psychrage

Fidof, I've had my OCZ AMD BE ram for about a year and a half now. Bought it with MSI 790FX-GD70, and yea, I've never had a problem.

I really do wish however that the voltage boost/droop would be addressed on this board.
I have to give my processor 1.5v to get 3.9Ghz, under idle, this is actually 1.535v, and under load it drops to 1.47/1.46. And my 4 stick of ram need to run at 1.7v to get 1.66v.
Kinda rediculous.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage;14855313*
> Fidof, I've had my OCZ AMD BE ram for about a year and a half now. *Bought it with MSI 790FX-GD70*, and yea, I've never had a problem.
> 
> I really do wish however that the voltage boost/droop would be addressed on this board.
> I have to give my processor 1.5v to get 3.9Ghz, under idle, this is actually 1.535v, and under load it drops to 1.47/1.46. And my 4 stick of ram need to run at 1.7v to get 1.66v.
> Kinda rediculous.


If you'd bought a 990FXA-GD65/GD80 Your story would be very very different.


----------



## itsgucci

Mkay, I just received my 990FXA-UD3 and it looks sexy as hell.
I'm making a new PC build to replace my 1000 year old calculator that I'm typing from right now and I'm wondering - are there any issues with the Corsair Cerulean Blue Vengeance 4GB DDR3 1600mhz RAM KIT?
If anyone used the same RAM in an UD3, than please let me know how well it handles on that motherboard.


----------



## Benz

I have G.Skill F312800CL74GBXM with the UD3 and they're working great. According to Gigabyte memory support list, there shouldn't be any problems with any Corsair RAM.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14865112*
> I have G.Skill F312800CL74GBXM with the UD3 and they're working great. According to Gigabyte memory support list, there shouldn't be any problems with any Corsair RAM.


Same brand here XD check my sig... no problems at all! XD


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14865112*
> I have G.Skill F312800CL74GBXM with the UD3 and they're working great. According to Gigabyte memory support list, there shouldn't be any problems with any Corsair RAM.


Okay man, thanks a heaps!
I'm looking forward to making the new build, but I'm kinda broke so I don't wanna buy non-compatible components







.
Will give the Corsair RAM a shot and see how well that goes, I still need to buy CPU, HDD, PSU and a case so the RAM is the last thing I'm worried about (in therms of price, that is).
Anyways, you guys found any solutions for the huge voltage drop under load so far?

EDIT: Okay I fail at typing, I just saw that I wrote UD3 in my last post, when my actual motherboard model is 990FXA-D3, without the U.. anyways they look pretty much the same to me.


----------



## Benz

The D3 has 4+1 power phases, the UD3 has 8+2 phases. Just don't OC too much because you can burn out your VRMs. You should also consider getting yourself a decent heatsink for VRMs, however I don't know which ones are good. Maybe these but I'm not sure.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708012

And get yourself a nice 120mm fan with it.


----------



## psychrage

Does anyone happen to know the length of the VRM heatsyc?
I'm at work and can't measure it myself, but I'm looking into watercooling the NB/VRM's.


----------



## kzone75

Found a rev. 1.1 of the UD3 on the Gigabyte web page. Would be fun to know the difference. Not that it would be any big ones, I guess. Not much to complain about the motherboard I have now. Except, there's a Bulldozer missing..


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage;14868640*
> Does anyone happen to know the length of the VRM heatsyc?
> I'm at work and can't measure it myself, but I'm looking into watercooling the NB/VRM's.


Measuring heatsink only = 100mm.
Measuring from hole to hole = 107mm.
Measuring from beginning to the end = 114mm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14868652*
> Found a rev. 1.1 of the UD3 on the Gigabyte web page. Would be fun to know the difference. Not that it would be any big ones, I guess. *Not much to complain about the motherboard I have now. Except, there's a Bulldozer missing*..


Same here.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14868414*
> The D3 has 4+1 power phases, the UD3 has 8+2 phases. Just don't OC too much because you can burn out your VRMs. You should also consider getting yourself a decent heatsink for VRMs, however I don't know which ones are good. Maybe these but I'm not sure.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708012
> 
> And get yourself a nice 120mm fan with it.


Uhm talking about cooling - I have another question.
The D3 has 2 holes for a heatsink on the MOSFETs, just like the UD3, but it doesn't include the heatsink itself, so I was wondering - can I buy a separate heatsink for them, not quite sure if a similar design is being sold somewhere.


----------



## psychrage

So the HEATKILLER--SWX-A2-LT at 80mm in length won't work then?

The only thing I'm seeing that will work on the VRM side is the EK EK-FB GA AMD KIT


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsgucci;14869042*
> Uhm talking about cooling - I have another question.
> The D3 has 2 holes for a heatsink on the MOSFETs, just like the UD3, but it doesn't include the heatsink itself, so I was wondering - can I buy a separate heatsink for them, not quite sure if a similar design is being sold somewhere.


Yeah why not, the one from GA-890GPA-UD3H, GA-MA790GPT-UD3H, GA-MA790GP-DS4H, GA-MA790GP-UD3H, GA-MA790GP-UD4H boards will fit nicely if you find one.


----------



## wpzzz

[removed]


----------



## wpzzz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*  
_Found a rev. 1.1 of the UD3 on the Gigabyte web page. Would be fun to know the difference. Not that it would be any big ones, I guess. *Not much to complain about the motherboard I have now. Except, there's a Bulldozer missing*..







_


Ditto, I checked the side-by-side comparison and they both were identical... I wonder what they did there?

sorry for duplicate post new here not sure how to delete


----------



## mystikalrush

I dont think they updated the pictures, if you look at the top left corner for the rev # there both the same. So still gotta wait and see what they changed.


----------



## psychrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14868652*
> Found a rev. 1.1 of the UD3 on the Gigabyte web page. Would be fun to know the difference. Not that it would be any big ones, I guess. Not much to complain about the motherboard I have now. Except, there's a Bulldozer missing..


Some day... Some day.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14869273*
> Yeah why not, the one from GA-890GPA-UD3H, GA-MA790GPT-UD3H, GA-MA790GP-DS4H, GA-MA790GP-UD3H, GA-MA790GP-UD4H boards will fit nicely if you find one.


That's what I'm looking for, but without any success so far..








I'd really love to slap the UD3's heatsink on my MOSFETs, or maybe even get the heatsink from the 990FXA-UD5/7 that covers the VRMs too.


----------



## Benz

You can't, the UD5/UD7 ones won't fit because they're too big.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14877305*
> You can't, the UD5/UD7 ones won't fit *because they're too big*.


Whats too big.. the VRMs?
If yes than yeah, I agree, other than that the heatsinks look like the same size to me.


----------



## psychrage

As Benz said, your U3 board had 4+1, making a total of 5 VRMs. Where the UD5/UD7 has 8+2, totaling to 10 VRM's. The UD5/7 VRM Sync is going to be too big to mount on the U3.


----------



## janmartin3

Hi all,

is this PC system well balanced and will it run Ubuntu Linux?

I need to do some panorama stitching with 48000 images of ca. 2 MB each.
No gaming at all. The video card is used for seam optimization only.

Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T (3,20GHz)
4x 4GB DDR3 PC1333
1000GB SATA3 HDD
1GB Nvidia GTX550Ti HDMI DX 11
550 Watt 14cm FAN Silent

Do you see a bottleneck anywhere?

I am thinking about adding a 128GB OCZ SSD with 550/500 read/write speed for the operating system.
Would this make sense?

Thanks,
Jan

Details at ebay:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/AMD-Phenom-II...item588f959283

Price is 599 Euro which translates to 821 USD.
Is this OK?


----------



## psychrage

Looks good to me. I don't think you need a 128gb SSD for Linux though.

I mean, your install wont' be very big. And you don't want to do alot of reading/writing to that SSD, so you'd store all your images on the TB hard drive you've got.
I'd personally get a 30gb or 60gb ssd.

Even for Windows, I bought a 96gb so I could keep a couple "slower" loading games on it. But for the most part, I keep everything on actual hard drive.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *janmartin3*


Hi all,

is this PC system well balanced and will it run Ubuntu Linux?

I need to do some panorama stitching with 48000 images of ca. 2 MB each.
No gaming at all. The video card is used for seam optimization only.

Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T (3,20GHz)
4x 4GB DDR3 PC1333
1000GB SATA3 HDD
1GB Nvidia GTX550Ti HDMI DX 11
550 Watt 14cm FAN Silent

Do you see a bottleneck anywhere?

I am thinking about adding a 128GB OCZ SSD with 550/500 read/write speed for the operating system.
Would this make sense?

Thanks,
Jan

Details at ebay:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/AMD-Phenom-II...item588f959283

Price is 599 Euro which translates to 821 USD.
Is this OK?


Looks well balanced to me and it's at a very good price. Ubuntu is not that demanding, so it will run fine. Not familiar with panorama stitching or anything photo related, but I would guess that you'd need all that RAM. Not bad at all.







I'd say go for it. 
And you wouldn't need a 128GB ssd. Maybe a 60GB Corsair Force GT SataIII. I would get one of those if I needed an ssd now.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage;14879522*
> As Benz said, your U3 board had 4+1, making a total of 5 VRMs. Where the UD5/UD7 has 8+2, totaling to 10 VRM's. The UD5/7 VRM Sync is going to be too big to mount on the U3.


Why wouldn't it, I don't see that much of a problem, I mean - wont the heatsink just cover the 5 VRMs and leave some empty space?
Not quite sure if there's any difference in the size of the heatsink itself, looks like it will match up with the holes on the D3 just fine, could be wrong tho.


----------



## psychrage

you've got a point. I don't see why it wouldn't work.
I just compared the top down pictures and the mounting holes do line up.
I know my UD5's VRM sync is completly flat, so it's not proprietary to the ud5 board.


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *itsgucci*


Why wouldn't it, I don't see that much of a problem, I mean - wont the heatsink just cover the 5 VRMs and leave some empty space?
Not quite sure if there's any difference in the size of the heatsink itself, looks like it will match up with the holes on the D3 just fine, could be wrong tho.


The heatsink is too big, don't you understand too big?

You can't fit the UD5/UD7 heatsink on your D3 or the UD3 for that matter, it's too long the holes won't fit.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

psychrage just said it looks like the mounting holes line up?


----------



## psychrage

It actually won't work. Benz is right.
Here is an image of the UD5 laid over the U3...


----------



## Willhemmens

It isn't looking good for this UD7. It appears to have killed my £70 Roccat Kone+. Replaced it with my old mouse and that was having issues constantly turning on and off, keyboard looked like it had died but worked when plugged into the front ports.

My Corsair memory stick was far hotter than normal too.

Kone+ appears to be completely dead, won't work in any of my PCs which is pretty annoying.

A hardcore Gigabyte fan I used to be, now I'm not quite so sure.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psychrage;14886672*
> It actually won't work. Benz is right.
> Here is an image of the UD5 laid over the U3...


Off course I'm right, why would I post something if I have no idea what I'm saying.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Off course I'm right, why would I post something if I have no idea what I'm saying.










Yeah...right. Because nobody does that on web forums


----------



## itsgucci

Gosh.. since when asking a question here leads to raging guys saying you're wrong???
"don't you understand too big".. I don't own 50000 motherboards give me a f*** break.
I said "Not quite sure if there's any difference in the size of the heatsink itself, *looks like *it will match up with the holes on the D3 just fine, *could be wrong tho*." I never said I'm sure about it or anything, nor I tried arguing with you guys over that, just said that the layout looks identical to me.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *itsgucci*


Gosh.. since when asking a question here leads to raging guys saying you're wrong???
"don't you understand too big".. I don't own 50000 motherboards give me a f*** break.
I said "Not quite sure if there's any difference in the size of the heatsink itself, *looks like *it will match up with the holes on the D3 just fine, *could be wrong tho*." I never said I'm sure about it or anything, nor I tried arguing with you guys over that, just said that the layout looks identical to me.


His response to you was pretty harsh but try not to let it get to you. There are all types here. If you feel someone is rude or disrespectful, stay calm and report the post. Otherwise you could be the one to end up getting warned (or worse)


----------



## psychrage

I didn't find it to be that harsh. Benz was just absolutely sure. I believe we've all seen much worse responses on forums.


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tw33k*


Yeah...right. Because nobody does that on web forums










I'm not that type of a person.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *itsgucci*


Gosh.. since when asking a question here leads to raging guys saying you're wrong???
"don't you understand too big".. I don't own 50000 motherboards give me a f*** break.
I said "Not quite sure if there's any difference in the size of the heatsink itself, *looks like *it will match up with the holes on the D3 just fine, *could be wrong tho*." I never said I'm sure about it or anything, nor I tried arguing with you guys over that, just said that the layout looks identical to me.


If you think I own 50000 motherboards you're wrong... Isn't it obvious to everyone here that these lower class boards all have the same PCB? My intention was to help you, not to argue with you instead you rewarded me with that kinda post. I only responded as I did because I was 100% sure I'm right and it turned out I was right. Now, if you wanna continue arguing over this, be my guest...


----------



## tw33k

lol...good to hear


----------



## Benz

I think you'll find out that I'm an extremely arrogant man who treats people badly. It's hard for me to admit, but there it is I admitted it and I know I'm gonna have to change sooner or later, just not now anyway.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Ok I'm looking at the UD7 for my next build however I'm worried about the Vdroop issues that I've been reading about, since this will be the first board that I plan on trying for more than a minimal overclock. I'm going to be swapping over my 965BE from my current build and I've seen that some of you have hit 4Ghz with the UD7 and 965BE. So my question is if I get this board and for some reason I do have voltage issues and have to run at stock clocks is it still worth the $250 on Newegg, if all it's features and so on are taken into account?


----------



## Benz

If you worry about the Vdroop issues, then get the UD3, Crosshair V or ASROCK Fatal1ty 990FX Professional.


----------



## Lordred

Vdroop just means you need to set the voltage higher.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred;14898765*
> Vdroop just means you need to set the voltage higher.


I realize you can simply up the voltage to compensate for Vdroop however you can eventually reach a point where the voltage at idle is to high in order to do this.

So let me try a different question: have any of you seen any other possible issues with the UD7 other than the Vdroop issues that some are having?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14897183*
> If you worry about the Vdroop issues, then get the UD3, Crosshair V or ASROCK Fatal1ty 990FX Professional.


If I was a fan of any of these boards, guess what I'd probably buy one of them wouldn't I!
Glad you posted earlier you know you're not a nice person so I don't have to feel bad for my tone either LoL. I know you're trying to answer my question but you didn't really answer it you just told me that I should buy a different board. My question was more about weather the possible Vdroop issues are a big enough problem to keep someone from purchasing the board.


----------



## MadGoat

In short, no...

The UD5 and UD7's vdroop issues are really just a little annoyance to most that are use to OC'ing on older Nvidia and Amd chipsets.

For the most part I've seen the boards OC just as high as their predecessors. Now granted they will require a little bit more voltage through the lower load states of the proc (Idle and so on). But heat I've seen isn't really an issue either with the extra voltage because of the voltage only being applied at lower load.

So in reality, the boards work fine with Amd's current Gen procs. But are designed with bulldozer in mind. If you take that into consideration, then the little annoyance that people have blown the vdroop out to be is really not a huge factor.

Cool to see a Fellow Wild Cat on the forums...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadGoat*


In short, no...

The UD5 and UD7's vdroop issues are really just a little annoyance to most that are use to OC'ing on older Nvidia and Amd chipsets.

For the most part I've seen the boards OC just as high as their predecessors. Now granted they will require a little bit more voltage through the lower load states of the proc (Idle and so on). But heat I've seen isn't really an issue either with the extra voltage because of the voltage only being applied at lower load.

So in reality, the boards work fine with Amd's current Gen procs. But are designed with bulldozer in mind. If you take that into consideration, then the little annoyance that people have blown the vdroop out to be is really not a huge factor.

Cool to see a Fellow Wild Cat on the forums...










Thanks for the feedback, you answered my question perfectly I had been wondering if people had simply been blowing the issue out of proportion. When I look at all the other features it offers I couldn't see them overlooking a huge flaw like some were making the Vdroop out to be. Right now I'd be happy to get my 965BE up to 3.8 till I'm ready to upgrade to a Bulldozer, that is if and when they ever come out.
Now as for a Wildcat Fan, if you mean the U of A Wildcats and you are also from Tucson then Yes you found one on the Forums


----------



## MadGoat

Indeed,

I did however go with a the 990fxa-UD3 board as the UD5 and UD7 had too many bells and whistles I wouldn't have used. In doing so however, I skirted the vdroop issue entirely do to the UD3's power design being different than its bigger brethren. (plus I like the PCIe slot placement better than almost all 990 chipset boards and don't really see a need for more than 2 videos cards in my system at any one time







)

And yes, I also hail from Tucson


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Another UD3 customer satisfied XD like me. The PCI placement in this motherboard rocks!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Yeah I've spent I bit more time looking at the UD3 since my last post but the UD7 does have some features that I would probably use. Not to mention that in the past I've often gone with the lower model board cause I figured I'll never use all those bells and whistles, but then a year later I was berating myself because I now needed one of those bells or whistles. So even though I could probably get along with the UD3 I'm hesitant to down grade for fear I might need something the UD7 has. Oh well going to be another couple of weeks before I'm ready to order anything so I've still got time to decide


----------



## ikem

got a ud5 today... vdroop is kinda screwing with me... i have to set it at 1.55v, it idles @ 1.568 in cpuz and drops to 1.50v for 4050mhz is that ok?


----------



## MadGoat

as long as its stable and temps look good... 6 cores at 4ghz

Sexy


----------



## WeirdHarold

I thought that I read somewhere that the upper voltage limit on the AMD chips was 1.5v?
Is it really safe/ok to run them higher than that as long as it's sable and your temps are good?


----------



## robbo2

The problem with the vdroop on the UD5 is the insanely high idle. I know my chip is stable at 4.5 but it needs 1.55v core to do it which at idle is 1.64v. Not comfortable with that so I have to settle for 4.3 with 1.525 idle and 1.44 load.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2;14906453*
> The problem with the vdroop on the UD5 is the insanely high idle. I know my chip is stable at 4.5 but it needs 1.55v core to do it which at idle is 1.64v. Not comfortable with that so I have to settle for 4.3 with 1.525 idle and 1.44 load.


Since your system specs show you as running an Intel system, what processor are you running in your UD5?


----------



## mxthunder

If your worried about Vdroop, do not get this motherboard. I am no longer recommending it to anyone.


----------



## kzone75

Does anyone have another CPU to test on the 990FXA's? Noticed something with my old mobo just before I sold it. Never had vdroop when I had the 965BE in it. Bought an Athlon x3 455 and suddenly it was there. I found that a tad strange.. Didn't have time to test the 455 on my 990FXA-UD3, but the tiny vdroop doesn't bother me at all anyways..
Still don't understand why the UD5 and UD7 have more vdroop than the UD3's.. Shouldn't be that much difference between them. But I could be wrong.


----------



## robbo2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;14908405*
> Since your system specs show you as running an Intel system, what processor are you running in your UD5?


C3 965. Just waiting to replace it with bulldozer


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


Does anyone have another CPU to test on the 990FXA's? Noticed something with my old mobo just before I sold it. Never had vdroop when I had the 965BE in it. Bought an Athlon x3 455 and suddenly it was there. I found that a tad strange.. Didn't have time to test the 455 on my 990FXA-UD3, but the tiny vdroop doesn't bother me at all anyways.. 
Still don't understand why the UD5 and UD7 have more vdroop than the UD3's.. Shouldn't be that much difference between them. But I could be wrong.


CPU power is provided by a 8+2 PWM, but this uses regular MOSFETs on the UD3 rather than DrMOS transistors found in the UD7 and UD5.

Bottom line is that bulldozer has a different power design than the current AM3 procs. Using a a AM3 proc in a AM3+ board that is designed with a different processor requirement in mind is going to net you these "vdroop" issues, its unavoidable right now.

Buy it, Overclock the nutz out of it, and wait for the proc the board was originally intended for. Otherwise rock a 890 chipset.









(TBH I don't care what happens to my current proc anymore. 1.58 at load... meh, who cares lol. Its just kicking stones for me till it gets replaced... Also I've been running a 940 c2 in my AM2+ board at 3.7ghz 1.55v and 1.3vNB/HT cooled by a Mugen 2 for years now, no problem. Further more thats on a K9N2 board with 4+1 power.)


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well I'm still thinking that the UD7 fits everything that I want out of my next build Vdroop or not it's still an amazing board. Even if I can't do much in the way of overclocking at the moment my 965BE at 3.4Ghz is still a great processor and it does all I need it to. With any luck when the new processors come out the Vdroop will go away, at least one can hope.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


I'm not that type of a person.









If you think I own 50000 motherboards you're wrong... Isn't it obvious to everyone here that these lower class boards all have the same PCB? My intention was to help you, not to argue with you instead you rewarded me with that kinda post. I only responded as I did because I was 100% sure I'm right and it turned out I was right. Now, if you wanna continue arguing over this, be my guest...


I guess I misunderstood your post than.. sorry about that!


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;14908553*
> If your worried about Vdroop, do not get this motherboard. I am no longer recommending it to anyone.


The thing is...
We don't know how bad the vdrop will be with BD CPUs.
Gigabyte is strictly following AMD's AM3*+* spec.
I just wish that LLC worked on revision 1.0 boards.








If I could do it all over again, I would have gotten the CHV.


----------



## t3haxle

Has anybody had any problems with the UD3?

Assume 2 Video Cards Max.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;14934060*
> The thing is...
> We don't know how bad the vdrop will be with BD CPUs.
> Gigabyte is strictly following AMD's AM3*+* spec.
> I just wish that LLC worked on revision 1.0 boards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I could do it all over again, I would have gotten the CHV.


I haven't yet purchased my board does anyone know if any new revision boards have started shipping yet?


----------



## MadGoat

I'd like to know that myself.

Furthermore, does anyone have the inside scoop on what these 1.1 revision boards have different?

As far as problems with the UD3... cant say its perfect... but what board is? I can say however, that i think there are more happy UD3 owners than UD5 or UD7s.

(I think the vDroop issue really gets people's goat, though not an issue with the UD3 per se)


----------



## Zeek

vdroop isnt bad for me at all. Im running my sig rig and lowest it goes is 1.360 under load it hits 1.376 when I have it set up at 1.375


----------



## robbo2

The problem is with the UD5 and UD7 as they use a different power delivery system.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeek;14939831*
> vdroop isnt bad for me at all. Im running my sig rig and lowest it goes is 1.360 under load it hits 1.376 when I have it set up at 1.375


Likewise,

I'm running 1.56v through my c2 x3, just to keep the unlocked 4th core happy.

But voltage fluctuation is only .01-.02 ... Better than most boards I've had in the past.







Im very happy with this UD3.

Edit: ^^^^^ Forgot some zeros^^^^^


----------



## dalastbmills

Hello owners of the gigabyte 990fxa. I have decided to invest in the ud3 board and am a little stuck when it comes to selecting ram for the board. I've decided on 8gb but that is the only option I have figured out. I prefer corsair or gskill, but it doesn't matter. What should I get? I'm leaning towards 1866 corsair dominator, but I feel like I can get a cheaper set (cheaper then $160). Any input is appreciated!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dalastbmills;14942502*
> Hello owners of the gigabyte 990fxa. I have decided to invest in the ud3 board and am a little stuck when it comes to selecting ram for the board. I've decided on 8gb but that is the only option I have figured out. I prefer corsair or gskill, but it doesn't matter. What should I get? I'm leaning towards 1866 corsair dominator, but I feel like I can get a cheaper set (cheaper then $160). Any input is appreciated!


if you go to the Gigabyte page for the UD3 http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894#sp
at the top of the page is a link that says Memory support list then just follow the on screen instructions. That will at least give you an idea of what memory Gigabyte has passed for use with the UD3.


----------



## WeirdHarold

I just sent an email to Gigabyte asking about the newer revisions of the UD7's in regards to when they might be shipped, changes from the current boards and also if upcoming Bios updates might have so LLC options to help battle the votlage issues some are having. As soon as I hear back from them I'll let you all know what they said.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dalastbmills;14942502*
> Hello owners of the gigabyte 990fxa. I have decided to invest in the ud3 board and am a little stuck when it comes to selecting ram for the board. I've decided on 8gb but that is the only option I have figured out. I prefer corsair or gskill, but it doesn't matter. What should I get? I'm leaning towards 1866 corsair dominator, but I feel like I can get a cheaper set (cheaper then $160). Any input is appreciated!


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233147

Couple things to consider when looking at ram, some more obvious than others.

Speed, Timings, voltage, warranty and value added perks (Heat spreaders, looks)

The Sticks above are lower voltage than most sticks that will do 1600 at cas8 timings. relax the timing to cas9 and they will go 1866. Not to mention what just a TAD bit of voltage increase can net you.

I personally run these and I have been very impressed.

Ultimately, look for highest speed with the lowest timings at the lowest voltage. Don't let these "Uber crazy kool L33t sauce gaming" memory kits fool you. most of them run up to 1.65 volts just so they can slap a sticker on the side of it that has higher speeds or tighter timings.


----------



## MadGoat

Ok I've got a question,

Amd chipset drivers confuse the hell outa me... in all honesty they scare me.

Right now I'm using whatever drivers windows 7 liked during install (had tons of problems trying to load drivers and what not)

So what are you all running? I've found 11.8 SouthBridge and Raid drivers under the 8xxfx chipset section on Amd's site. Are these what I'm looking for?

I ask only because I have seen many reports and good things about "the new Amd chipset drivers". Having looked in my device manager, my raid controller driver in particular seems to be from 2009? (AMD AHCI compatable RAID Controller)










Thanks









EDIT: WHOA! Went ahead and tried the raid drivers anyway... Boot loop = no fun. Set a restore point before hand. Good thing I did.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Ok all you 990FXA - UD3,5&7 owners what are your thoughts on the onboard audio, is it at least decent?


----------



## tw33k

The new Dolby driver works great. I'm very happy to stick with on-board audio.

Also, I fixed my slow boot issue. It was my USB 3.0 drive. I removed it and plugged it in internally and now no more slow start up. I knew I didn't like those Etron USB 3.0 drivers for some reason. The NEC drivers seemed a lot better.


----------



## nyates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;14959767*
> Ok all you 990FXA - UD3,5&7 owners what are your thoughts on the onboard audio, is it at least decent?


I think the the onboard sound is pretty decent. I run it through the Optical Out to a 5.1 system. Most of the calibrations are done on my receiver, so I can't say how good the equalizer software etc is...

But, no complaints.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyates;14960311*
> I think the the onboard sound is pretty decent. I run it through the Optical Out to a 5.1 system. Most of the calibrations are done on my receiver, so I can't say how good the equalizer software etc is...
> 
> But, no complaints.


+1

However i'm using an old Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic with modded opamps XD It sounds much better!


----------



## hacksaw907

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyates;14960311*
> I think the the onboard sound is pretty decent. I run it through the Optical Out to a 5.1 system. Most of the calibrations are done on my receiver, so I can't say how good the equalizer software etc is...
> 
> But, no complaints.


Optical out pretty much bypasses the onboard sound card's DAC; your receiver is doing all the decoding, aka all the processing that makes the sounds you hear.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;14959767*
> Ok all you 990FXA - UD3,5&7 owners what are your thoughts on the onboard audio, is it at least decent?


Very much so. Well, at least for my 2.1 setup and my old ears.. Listened to some Jean Michel Jarre (Aero 5.1) yesterday. And I did notice quite a lot of different sounds that I know for sure that I've never heard before. So I guess that Dolby does a very good job there.








I actually would recommend Aero 5.1 for peeps with awesome sound setups. Just sayin'..


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;14960638*
> +1
> 
> However i'm using an old Creative X-Fi XtremeMusic with modded opamps XD It sounds much better!


Nice! I wanted to do the mods but couldn't find the parts


----------



## Zeek

I went from a MA78LMT-S2 to a 990FXA-UD3 and my boot times are ALOT slower. Any ideas why? I'm on f4 bios if that matters.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;14960263*
> The new Dolby driver works great. I'm very happy to stick with on-board audio.
> 
> Also, I fixed my slow boot issue. It was my USB 3.0 drive. I removed it and plugged it in internally and now no more slow start up. I knew I didn't like those Etron USB 3.0 drivers for some reason. The NEC drivers seemed a lot better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nyates;14960311*
> I think the the onboard sound is pretty decent. I run it through the Optical Out to a 5.1 system. Most of the calibrations are done on my receiver, so I can't say how good the equalizer software etc is...
> 
> But, no complaints.


Thanks to both of you, I also would be using an optical/toslink cable to output the sound to a 5.1 receiver so I'm very glad to hear from someone that is doing just that


----------



## kzone75

There's a Rev 1.2 of the UD3 already?


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Really?? I wonder if we can trade in our first rev. boards for the newer ones haha


----------



## m_jones_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14964715*
> There's a Rev 1.2 of the UD3 already?


Saw this also, nearly downloaded the bios by mistake.


----------



## TheBear

Only difference I see is that rev. 1.2 doesn't have IEEE 1394a header onboard...


----------



## Evil Penguin

Watch these revised boards "fix" the vdrop issues several of us are having.
I'd be pissed.
Guess that's what I get for being a guinea pig/not doing enough research.
BD+UDx better not have this vdrop issue.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;14961977*
> Nice! I wanted to do the mods but couldn't find the parts


Parts:

Code:



Code:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM4562MA-Dual-HiFi-Audio-OpAmp-AUTHENTIC-LM4562-SOIC-/160636870415?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2566b41f0f#ht_2772wt_905

or

http://www.national.com/JS/orderParts.do?parts=LM4562

Guide:

Code:



Code:


http://www.head-fi.org/t/226975/hotrodding-the-x-fi-a-layman-s-guide-no-56k

Warning: Be very caution at soldering... the path come off too easy.

PD: Just by replacing the main opamp you will notice a better sound... just let it burnin for about 5 hours. XD


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBear;14966967*
> Only difference I see is that rev. 1.2 doesn't have IEEE 1394a header onboard...


And one less USB port in the back.. It also says SLI on the 1.2. Can't find it on the one I have now. If that's all, then I am good.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14967070*
> And one less USB port in the back.. It also says SLI on the 1.2. Can't find it on the one I have now. If that's all, then I am good.


...and in super small text:
"Fixes vdrop and adds LLC"


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;14967083*
> ...and in super small text:
> "Fixes vdrop and adds LLC"


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;14967083*
> ...and in super small text:
> "Fixes vdrop and adds LLC"


If that is the case, then we all have a reason (I even think we have the right) to trade in our motherboards for a new revision.


----------



## Evil Penguin

I'm kidding of course.
It's certainly possible that it's amongst one of the fixes.


----------



## ikem

^ if that is the case... I would email GB because it is really a flaw in their design...


----------



## kzone75

I emailed them earlier today and asked about the differences between the revisions. Hopefully we'll get some answers.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;14967155*
> I emailed them earlier today and asked about the differences between the revisions. Hopefully we'll get some answers.


I emailed them the other day to ask about newer revisions of the UD7's and I haven't heard back yet cause I'd really like to get the UD7 but want to wait till they have the bugs worked out LoL


----------



## WeirdHarold

Found this rather funny, on Newegg someone reviewed their Gskill ram on the UD3 page and only gave it 2 eggs because it was DOA. So that pulls the overall rating down and it's not even the right product LoL !


----------



## bicen

I honestly love my UD5, I replaced my Asus 88Evo with this board and have had absolutely no issues. The vdroop is annoying, yes, but I am stable at 4.1 ghz x6 at 1.5v, 3000mhz NB at 1.35 and mem at 1.65v (standard for my hyperx). After 4.1 ghz I start to get stability issues, cant seem to get it stable even at 1.55, which is when the voltage fluctuates too high (1.6v) and low (1.48) during stability tests. Everything else on the board has been very straight forward and I purchased the board to eventually move to the bulldozer chip anyhow so O.C. my AM3 really isn't important in the grand scheme of things.

I am currently using the F5c bios which doesn't seem much different than the F5b that I installed originally. New sound drivers are great, I prefer the onboard over my X-Fi fatal1ty card. Everything in my system was detected on the first boot, even my SSD which was a problem with the 88Evo board I had prior.

I guess I don't really understand the voltage issues. I am able to overclock my chip even higher than my regular AM3 board which was highly recommended for overclock. Even with the voltage increases at idle, they are still within the safe limits for my chip.

Also, if anyone was curious. Lian-Li has an onboard usb3 dongle that allows case usb3 cables to plug directly to the board, rather than running it around the back to a usb3 port http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005AJX9MW]Lian-Li USB3 dongle[/URL]. I have my Corsair 600T external usb3 connected to it, works great.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicen;14969693*
> I honestly love my UD5, I replaced my Asus 88Evo with this board and have had absolutely no issues. The vdroop is annoying, yes, but I am stable at 4.1 ghz x6 at 1.5v, 3000mhz NB at 1.35 and mem at 1.65v (standard for my hyperx). After 4.1 ghz I start to get stability issues, cant seem to get it stable even at 1.55, which is when the voltage fluctuates too high (1.6v) and low (1.48) during stability tests. Everything else on the board has been very straight forward and I purchased the board to eventually move to the bulldozer chip anyhow so O.C. my AM3 really isn't important in the grand scheme of things.
> 
> I am currently using the F5c bios which doesn't seem much different than the F5b that I installed originally. New sound drivers are great, I prefer the onboard over my X-Fi fatal1ty card. Everything in my system was detected on the first boot, even my SSD which was a problem with the 88Evo board I had prior.
> 
> I guess I don't really understand the voltage issues. I am able to overclock my chip even higher than my regular AM3 board which was highly recommended for overclock. Even with the voltage increases at idle, they are still within the safe limits for my chip.
> 
> Also, if anyone was curious. Lian-Li has an onboard usb3 dongle that allows case usb3 cables to plug directly to the board, rather than running it around the back to a usb3 port Lian-Li USB3 dongle. I have my Corsair 600T external usb3 connected to it, works great.


Newegg has a Front panel USB 3.0 that will plug directly into the USB 3.0 Header on your motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811996037


----------



## bicen

I saw that, but since I have the USB3 port built into my case already, I didn't need the full unit and I had a difficult time finding that adapter specific to my current configuration.


----------



## BramSLI1

Does anyone here think that the new EK chipset water block is a good deal for the UD7? I just recently got into water cooling and my chipset registers a maximum temp of 62 degrees Celsius in HW monitor. The black one goes for 85 and the clear one goes for 80 bucks. Does anyone think it would be worth it? Some of the retailers are starting to carry them now.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;14970870*
> Does anyone here think that the new EK chipset water block is a good deal for the UD7? I just recently got into water cooling and my chipset registers a maximum temp of 62 degrees Celsius in HW monitor. The black one goes for 85 and the clear one goes for 80 bucks. Does anyone think it would be worth it? Some of the retailers are starting to carry them now.


can you post a link to the site or sites where you are looking at the waterblocks?

Think I found them on FrozenCpu.com I'd give them a shot, but I'd like them better if they came with a waterblock for the southbridge too.


----------



## jimmyc1

Not sure this is the right place to post, but i hope someone can help. I have the 990fxa-ud3 board rev 1.0 with bios f2 which i have a 120GB ocz agility connected to as my main OS drive running Win7 x64. The drive is connected to sata port_0 and is running in achi mode. i have a dvd drive connected to sata _4. I was able to install the OS from the dvd drive to the SSD no problems. I have now tried to add a second hard disk which is a samsung F3 1TB. The problem is when I connect the drive to any of the sata ports and boot the drive is not seen in the bios or windows. I have opened up the case and the drive is not spinning at all, even though it has power to it. I thought the drive might be dodgy so i pulled it out and put it in a hdd caddy and it works fine. I thought the sata power connector might be dodgy but if i just connect the drive to the power and not to a sata port it actaully spins up. So the problem only happens when the drive is connected to the sata power lead AND the sata port on the mobo. Its so strange and doesn't make any logical sense. My case also has a hot swap sata bay which i connected up to the power supply and to sata_2 on the mobo, I then put the samsung drive in and booted up. Nothing, it wasn't recognised or spinning, once windows had booted i physically ejected the disk from the hot swap port and reconnected it and it started sppining and was recognised by windows. Can anyone help at all, as i want the hard disk connected inside my case not in the hot swap bay. Thanks very much.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Mygoodnesstheformatorlackthereofisbad.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyc1;14976888*
> Not sure this is the right place to post, but i hope someone can help. I have the 990fxa-ud3 board rev 1.0 with bios f2 which i have a 120GB ocz agility connected to as my main OS drive running Win7 x64. The drive is connected to sata port_0 and is running in achi mode. i have a dvd drive connected to sata _4. I was able to install the OS from the dvd drive to the SSD no problems. I have now tried to add a second hard disk which is a samsung F3 1TB. The problem is when I connect the drive to any of the sata ports and boot the drive is not seen in the bios or windows. I have opened up the case and the drive is not spinning at all, even though it has power to it. I thought the drive might be dodgy so i pulled it out and put it in a hdd caddy and it works fine. I thought the sata power connector might be dodgy but if i just connect the drive to the power and not to a sata port it actaully spins up. So the problem only happens when the drive is connected to the sata power lead AND the sata port on the mobo. Its so strange and doesn't make any logical sense. My case also has a hot swap sata bay which i connected up to the power supply and to sata_2 on the mobo, I then put the samsung drive in and booted up. Nothing, it wasn't recognised or spinning, once windows had booted i physically ejected the disk from the hot swap port and reconnected it and it started sppining and was recognised by windows. Can anyone help at all, as i want the hard disk connected inside my case not in the hot swap bay. Thanks very much.


I've never used AHCI for my hard drives, however I do know that if your hard drive doesn't support AHCI it can cause problems. You might need to disable the AHCI mode to get the Samsung drive to be recognized in the bios. If the bios doesn't recognize the drive it won't turn it's specs over to Windows during the boot process. However when you plug it into the hot swap bay after windows has loaded windows will see it as a plug n play device just like a USB external drive, which is why it's working that way.

Oh yeah, you say you're running the F2 Bios I believe that they are all the way up to the F5 Bios now you might want to think about an update.


----------



## BramSLI1

WierdHarold, it is the block being sold on FrozenCPU. I don't think the blocks look as nice as the heat sinks do. I was just wondering if it might be worth it for overclocking performance.


----------



## itsgucci

Can't wait to finish my build guys!
Its taking a decent amount of time, since I'm low on funds right now, but its coming along really nicely.
I bought a Cooler Master Elite 430 case and it looks really sexy with the motherboard in it.
Current components:
Gigabyte 990FXA-D3
CoolerMaster Elite 430 Black case
ATi Radeon HD2100 Pro 256MB DDR3 (will be running some tests on it, that's why I've decided to stick with it until I do a few benchmarks)

To buy list:
AMD Phenom X6 1055
4x 2GB Corsair Blue Vengeance 1600mhz RAM
1TB WD SATA III 6GB/s HDD
600w ??? PSU (no idea what brand I'll get)


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsgucci;14978161*
> Can't wait to finish my build guys!
> Its taking a decent amount of time, since I'm low on funds right now, but its coming along really nicely.
> I bought a Cooler Master Elite 430 case and it looks really sexy with the motherboard in it.
> Current components:
> Gigabyte 990FXA-D3
> CoolerMaster Elite 430 Black case
> ATi Radeon HD2100 Pro 256MB DDR3 (will be running some tests on it, that's why I've decided to stick with it until I do a few benchmarks)
> 
> To buy list:
> AMD Phenom X6 1055
> 4x 2GB Corsair Blue Vengeance 1600mhz RAM
> 1TB WD SATA III 6GB/s HDD
> 600w ??? PSU (no idea what brand I'll get)


http://www.overclock.net/power-supplies/183810-faq-recommended-power-supplies.html Here's a list of recommended PSUs. What the heck is ATi Radeon HD2100 Pro 256MB DDR3?







Never heard of.. Isn't that onboard graphics?


----------



## jimmyc1

Thanks weird Harold, I eventually got to the bottom of the problem. Seems that samsung F3 have a problem with SB850 and the newer SB950 and are hence not recognised in the bios or, of course windows. I found a very useful guide on how to update the firmware on my HDD which solved the problem. I appreciate your help and have updated my bios as well anyway to F4 (couldn't see F5 on gigabytes site).

if anyone else has this issue a guide can be found here:
http://www.jack-brennan.com/?p=1302


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyc1;14979207*
> Thanks weird Harold, I eventually got to the bottom of the problem. Seems that samsung F3 have a problem with SB850 and the newer SB950 and are hence not recognised in the bios or, of course windows. I found a very useful guide on how to update the firmware on my HDD which solved the problem. I appreciate your help and have updated my bios as well anyway to F4 (couldn't see F5 on gigabytes site).
> 
> if anyone else has this issue a guide can be found here:
> http://www.jack-brennan.com/?p=1302


Yes I had the same issue too. Most frustrating and tbh I still haven't bothered to fix it.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


WierdHarold, it is the block being sold on FrozenCPU. I don't think the blocks look as nice as the heat sinks do. I was just wondering if it might be worth it for overclocking performance.


Well if I was going to get one of the 2 different waterblocks I'd get the clear one and fill the cooling system with UV coolant that would at least make the waterblocks nicer to look at. As for overclocking I haven't seen anyone complaining about chipset temps, I've also never found a need on an AMD board to overclock the chipsets to obtain good and stable overclocks. I would personally leave the stock heatpipe and heatsinks unless you start to have temp issues, but that's just my opinion.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jimmyc1*


Thanks weird Harold, I eventually got to the bottom of the problem. Seems that samsung F3 have a problem with SB850 and the newer SB950 and are hence not recognised in the bios or, of course windows. I found a very useful guide on how to update the firmware on my HDD which solved the problem. I appreciate your help and have updated my bios as well anyway to F4 (couldn't see F5 on gigabytes site).

if anyone else has this issue a guide can be found here:
http://www.jack-brennan.com/?p=1302


I'm glad you found an answer since I'm going to be going with one of these boards on my next build and I have the 2TB version of the same drive for media storage. So Thank you in fact !


----------



## BramSLI1

WeirdHarold, thanks for the feedback. I think I'll stick with the stock heat sinks. My temps don't seem that bad and now that I've added a larger radiator I think my temps across the board dropped a degree or two anyway.


----------



## silvers_13

I have Motherboard - GA-990FXA-UD3
Cpu - AMD Altlon II 645
Video Card- Gigabyte GTX-460 SC
Ram - Ripjaw 4gb 1600 (single but 2 more coming)
PSU - Antec Earthwatts 650w
Harddrive - Samsung 320gb and Crucial M4 64gb

I can't get it to stay running. The first time I started it, it worked great I installed Windows 8 and changed my ram so it would be 1600. I shut it off because I'm waiting on a wifi adapter so I can download some games. Anyway I was going to show my girlfriends dad how fast it starts windows (about ten secs btw) and it turned on and about ten secs later right back off.

Now I can't get it to stay on past lifting my finger from the power button and weird enough I have to reset the on/off switch or it wont turn on. The first time I "shut down" windows the screen went off but all the fans continued to run until I held the power button and it shut off. I can't figure out what the problem is I've tested everything I could. I have the mobo sitting on the static bag and still. Tried all 4 slots for the ram, tested the PSU with the green to black and it ran just fine. I reset CMOS by the battery over night. CPU never got past 37c

What could it be? Seems like the mobo? thats what i'm running into conclusion wise. Everything is brand new seems like a first kind of this problem? I searched all yesterday and today and finally decided to post.

Thanks..?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvers_13;14983052*
> I have Motherboard - GA-990FXA-UD3
> Cpu - AMD Altlon II 645
> Video Card- Gigabyte GTX-460 SC
> Ram - Ripjaw 4gb 1600 (single but 2 more coming)
> PSU - Antec Earthwatts 650w
> Harddrive - Samsung 320gb and Crucial M4 64gb
> 
> I can't get it to stay running. The first time I started it, it worked great I installed Windows 8 and changed my ram so it would be 1600. I shut it off because I'm waiting on a wifi adapter so I can download some games. Anyway I was going to show my girlfriends dad how fast it starts windows (about ten secs btw) and it turned on and about ten secs later right back off.
> 
> Now I can't get it to stay on past lifting my finger from the power button and weird enough I have to reset the on/off switch or it wont turn on. The first time I "shut down" windows the screen went off but all the fans continued to run until I held the power button and it shut off. I can't figure out what the problem is I've tested everything I could. I have the mobo sitting on the static bag and still. Tried all 4 slots for the ram, tested the PSU with the green to black and it ran just fine. I reset CMOS by the battery over night. CPU never got past 37c
> 
> What could it be? Seems like the mobo? thats what i'm running into conclusion wise. Everything is brand new seems like a first kind of this problem? I searched all yesterday and today and finally decided to post.
> 
> Thanks..?


Well for one thing you should never set your motherboard on a static bag!!!! Anti Static bags work by putting a thin metal coating on the outside of the bag to carry static charges around the parts inside. So with all the metal solder points on the back of the motherboard you can see why that would be a bad idea.


----------



## Benz

I just found a rev 1.2 of GA-990FXA-UD3, and was wondering can I flash my rev 1.0 UD3 with this FA BIOS?

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4001#bios


----------



## Karossua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyc1;14976888*
> Not sure this is the right place to post, but i hope someone can help. I have the 990fxa-ud3 board rev 1.0 with bios f2 which i have a 120GB ocz agility connected to as my main OS drive running Win7 x64. The drive is connected to sata port_0 and is running in achi mode. i have a dvd drive connected to sata _4. I was able to install the OS from the dvd drive to the SSD no problems. I have now tried to add a second hard disk which is a samsung F3 1TB. The problem is when I connect the drive to any of the sata ports and boot the drive is not seen in the bios or windows. I have opened up the case and the drive is not spinning at all, even though it has power to it. I thought the drive might be dodgy so i pulled it out and put it in a hdd caddy and it works fine. I thought the sata power connector might be dodgy but if i just connect the drive to the power and not to a sata port it actaully spins up. So the problem only happens when the drive is connected to the sata power lead AND the sata port on the mobo. Its so strange and doesn't make any logical sense. My case also has a hot swap sata bay which i connected up to the power supply and to sata_2 on the mobo, I then put the samsung drive in and booted up. Nothing, it wasn't recognised or spinning, once windows had booted i physically ejected the disk from the hot swap port and reconnected it and it started sppining and was recognised by windows. Can anyone help at all, as i want the hard disk connected inside my case not in the hot swap bay. Thanks very much.


Well, the F3 Samsung have issues with southbridge 850 and 950 from AMD.
Your hard drive is no able to boot for incompatibility o read incorrect MBR from chipset AMD.

For resolve this, download the firmware from here:
http://www.samsung.com/global/business/hdd/faqView.do?b2b_bbs_msg_id=308

Connect your disk in the port SATA-0, any hard drive or optical drive must be have removed in order avoid anything wrong during the flash process.

Read completed the link for safety instructions.

Good luck!


----------



## Karossua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14987149*
> I just found a rev 1.2 of GA-990FXA-UD3, and was wondering can I flash my rev 1.0 UD3 with this FA BIOS?
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4001#bios


I dont think so, maybe rev 1.2 is support for EFI ...>? o LLC is activated for Phenom II...? who knows?... my Gigabyte support region says "You must make rma, your motherboard is not working properly"









Just because I asked about the vdroop, hoping to send me a link of some bios.

His answer was that, what makes me doubt about the board that I have a working stable, but when I install a cpu AMD FX, will continue working as usual?


----------



## Benz

Technically the UD3 shouldn't have vdroop issues, so maybe you really need to RMA it.

So if I flash it with this FA BIOS and doesn't work my secondary BIOS would engage and flash my main BIOS with F4 again right?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;14987269*
> So if I flash it with this FA BIOS and doesn't work my secondary BIOS would engage and flash my main BIOS with F4 again right?


It should do that, yes. But I won't make any promises. Personally I wouldn't do it. If you do try it out (please don't), let us know how it goes.


----------



## Benz

I can't even force flash it, the board won't allow it.


----------



## kzone75

"On the rev 1.2 there is a change to JMicron eSATA controller from Marvell on the earlier boards.

On the rev 1.2 there are 2x IEEE 1394 on the back panel and none internal headers. On earlier version there where 1x on back panel and 1x on internal header.

From 1.0 to 1.1 only some minor design changes."

So there are the differences. Well, at least they said so..


----------



## mystikalrush

All i care about is my rev 1.0 supporting that FX 8150 and overclocking it, if i get that them im happy.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Finally decided to look at the info out for the upcoming Bulldozer's and saw that the FX-8170 will be at 3.9Ghz core clock and 4.5Ghz Turbo! And I've been worried about Purchasing the UD7 because of Vdroop while overclocking?? If these specs are even close to real why would I even need to overclock the darn thing


----------



## WeirdHarold

So I finally heard back from Gigabyte asking them if there were going to be any new revisions of the UD7 and if they might have some LLC options added at some point in future Bios updates. All I got was the same crap answer they've given everyone: "Unfortunately this is based on the AMD architecture and we followed AMD guidelines and it cannot be changed". But that's all no answer at all to new revisions of the board, after this very curt form letter like reply of one line that took them a week to write I'm thinking I might get an Asus board after all just out of spite LoL


----------



## kzone75

Well, it really surprises me that there are three revisions of the UD3 already. Maybe Gigabyte shows more love for them.







And the changes between them is nothing I worry about. I am totally happy with the one I have. Probably said that a couple of times already. Will be nice to see how BD overclocks with this beauty.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


http://www.overclock.net/power-suppl...-supplies.html Here's a list of recommended PSUs. *What the heck is ATi Radeon HD2100 Pro 256MB DDR3?







Never heard of.. Isn't that onboard graphics?*


Nah, it has a pci-e version too.
Its a decent graphics card.. you get like 7fps in modern games on highest settings..


----------



## WeirdHarold

So here is an interesting question: If a set of ram modules that isn't on the approved ram list has the exact same specs as an approved set by the exact same manufacture it should work as well right? Below are the 2 I'm referring to.

Approved one
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231401

Not Approved but exact same specs as above one
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231431


----------



## MadGoat

Just means that the modules have not been tested by gigabyte yet. Doesn't mean they are "incompatible", just that they cant be guaranteed compatibility.

the "X series" is sexier tho


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadGoat*


Just means that the modules have not been tested by gigabyte yet. Doesn't mean they are "incompatible", just that they cant be guaranteed compatibility.

the "X series" is sexier tho










Yeah that's the exact reason I want them, because they look so much better! Not to mention that all the fans in my case have blue LED's so I'd prefer the blue to the red


----------



## OverclockedUnicorn

Hello!

Could anyone point me which settings in bios on 990fxa-ud3 should i get to run my memory at 1600mhz(g.skill F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ(1600mhz)) instead of 1333mhz?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Found this via another forum and thought I'd share!
New Bulldozer chip overclocked to 8.429Ghz







Extreme cooling of course

  
 You Tube


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15014418*
> Found this via another forum and thought I'd share!
> New Bulldozer chip overclocked to 8.429Ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Extreme cooling of course


lol they are using the CHV...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*


lol they are using the CHV...










Yeah but just remember they were just going for max clock speed, so they never ran it to see if it was stable. I also have a feeling that they probably shut down cores so it may be 8.429Ghz but probably only like 1 or 2 cores not all 8. Still it's amazing that it was possible to push even 1 core that far, even if they had to cool it with liquid helium to darn near absolute zero (-225C)to get it there. Now lets just hope they get all the bugs worked out of the actual production chips that are supposed to come out next month !


----------



## tw33k

It was only running on 2 cores. There's a whole thread about it here


----------



## WeirdHarold

Ok I got a response from Gigabyte about newer revisions for the UD7 I was simply told there is only one revision for the UD7 at this time and if I was unsatisfied with it I was welcome to return it to my vendor. Is Gigabyte's support staff always rude or has that just been my experience. I'm very much starting to think about an Asus board again if this is how they treat potential customers!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tw33k*


it was only running on 2 cores. There's a whole thread about it here


where?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


where?


Check here

http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/79...blog-live.html


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


Ok I got a response from Gigabyte about newer revisions for the UD7 I was simply told there is only one revision for the UD7 at this time and if I was unsatisfied with it I was welcome to return it to my vendor. Is Gigabyte's support staff always rude or has that just been my experience. I'm very much starting to think about an Asus board again if this is how they treat potential customers!


I've never experienced any rudeness when it comes to Gigabyte. Have emailed them a bunch of times. They are always polite and helpful. And they will apologize if there's a question they can't answer..


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15023738*
> where?


Here


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15023735*
> Ok I got a response from Gigabyte about newer revisions for the UD7 I was simply told there is only one revision for the UD7 at this time and if I was unsatisfied with it I was welcome to return it to my vendor. Is Gigabyte's support staff always rude or has that just been my experience. I'm very much starting to think about an Asus board again if this is how they treat potential customers!


Well, I wouldn't say rudeness cuts it, incompetence is more appropriate word.


----------



## MadGoat

Concise is sometimes mistaken as rude...

I'm generally a "concise "to the point" person and often get labeled as "rude". I like skipping the pleasantries more often than not.

In a business environment I believe concise is the way to be. In a conversation on the other hand... that's a different story.

On a different note * It doesn't seem that much is "changing" with the new revisions. Just gigabyte reworking their suppliers more than anything. eh?

~MG~


----------



## WeirdHarold

I do agree that in a business situation that being concise is often a good thing, however in a support type of situation you should be more interested in customer service. I work in a customer service environment everyday and you always have the idea at the back of you mind when communicating with customers "don't say anything that could offend" . I do however agree that Gigabyte's response in this case was probably due to an attempt to be concise.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

lol Seems someone doesnt like our motherboards XD or at least the brand


----------



## Evil Penguin

If they have to hate on Gigabyte, they must be doing something right.








Like PCI-E 3.0 actually matters on either board.


----------



## kzone75

Anyone else running SATA 6Gb/s ssds? Bought a Kingston HyperX 120GB today. Getting really low speeds. Maxes out at ~240 MB/s. I kinda expected it to be close to 500 at least. I am confuzzled..


----------



## Rocket Dog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15037334*
> Anyone else running SATA 6Gb/s ssds? Bought a Kingston HyperX 120GB today. Getting really low speeds. Maxes out at ~240 MB/s. I kinda expected it to be close to 500 at least. I am confuzzled..


Have you set the controller to 6GB in BIOS?

Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rocket Dog;15037732*
> Have you set the controller to 6GB in BIOS?
> 
> Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk


What?? That's very silly response.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15037334*
> Anyone else running SATA 6Gb/s ssds? Bought a Kingston HyperX 120GB today. Getting really low speeds. Maxes out at ~240 MB/s. I kinda expected it to be close to 500 at least. I am confuzzled..


Is the drive in AHCI mode? You should probably post this question in the SSD section not here.


----------



## kzone75

ok Thank you kindly. Just thought I'd ask if anyone of you UD3,5,7 owners had experienced something similar.








And yes, it's in AHCI mode. Sorry for bothering.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15037334*
> Anyone else running SATA 6Gb/s ssds? Bought a Kingston HyperX 120GB today. Getting really low speeds. Maxes out at ~240 MB/s. I kinda expected it to be close to 500 at least. I am confuzzled..


How do mean low? Write or read speed?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;15038954*
> How do mean low? Write or read speed?


Both read and write.


----------



## Benz

These results are seriously low. Let me browse somewhere else for answers.


----------



## kzone75

Yeah, my Vertex 2 was faster. I have heard that there are problems with these HyperX's but this is just silly. It doesn't feel slow at all though, and it does give a nice 7.7 on WEI.







So I am not sure what to think.. I never liked benchmarks so maybe the benchmarks dislikes me too.









Note to self: Only use Atto for benchmarking this SSD..


----------



## Rocket Dog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;15038022*
> What?? That's very silly response.


Why is it? On my extreme it defaults to 3Gb/s and I have to manually change it to 6Gb/s, It could be the same on this board


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rocket Dog;15040481*
> Why is it? On my extreme it defaults to 3Gb/s and I have to manually change it to 6Gb/s, It could be the same on this board


+1 same


----------



## michintom

Add me please








http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2013691


----------



## Garanthor

To anyone in this club, I have a GA-990FXA-UD5 and I've been trying to find out some real truth about this whole VDroop issue.







Some people say it's a flaw with the board and others say it's part of a proper design. I noticed there is no LLC in bios to keep voltage up when under load. Is this really an issue?







Do I need to pump in more voltages at idle to compensate for drop at load? Right now it takes me 1.55 volts to keep stable at 4.05 Ghz on my 965 C3.







1.5 volts works for a bit but will eventually crash during Prime 95. Temps are not an issue as the CPU is under water (RX360) and temps never go over 48 C even at 1.55 volts.







Any info would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## janmartin3

Hi all,

got this system from ebay:

Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
AMD Phenom II X6 1090T (3,20GHz)
4x 4GB DDR3 PC1333
1000GB SATA3 HDD
1GB Nvidia GTX550Ti HDMI DX 11
550 Watt 14cm FAN Silent

Then had the local PC shop add this SSD as main drive: 128GB OCZ SSD

They also updated the BIOS.

Problem is that the PC beeps when it gets hot. So I changed the settings in BIOS from 60 deg. centigrade to 90 deg. centigrade for the beeping alarm.

When I start mass-processing images by scripts it gets hotter and hotter, starts to beep and finally freezes.

Ubuntu 10.04.3 Sensor Applet shows that it goes from ca. 50 deg. to 90 deg. Then beeps, short after that freezes.

This shouldn't happen?
What to do?

Details at ebay:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/AMD-Phenom-II-X6-1090T-6x3-2GHz-16GB-GTX550Ti-USB-3-0-/380366066307?pt=DE_Technik_Computer_Peripherieger%C3%A4te_PC_Systeme&hash=item588f959283


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *janmartin3;15049562*
> Hi all,
> 
> got this system from ebay:
> 
> Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
> AMD Phenom II X6 1090T (3,20GHz)
> 4x 4GB DDR3 PC1333
> 1000GB SATA3 HDD
> 1GB Nvidia GTX550Ti HDMI DX 11
> 550 Watt 14cm FAN Silent
> 
> Then had the local PC shop add this SSD as main drive: 128GB OCZ SSD
> 
> They also updated the BIOS.
> 
> Problem is that the PC beeps when it gets hot. So I changed the settings in BIOS from 60 deg. centigrade to 90 deg. centigrade for the beeping alarm.
> 
> When I start mass-processing images by scripts it gets hotter and hotter, starts to beep and finally freezes.
> 
> Ubuntu 10.04.3 Sensor Applet shows that it goes from ca. 50 deg. to 90 deg. Then beeps, short after that freezes.
> 
> This shouldn't happen?
> What to do?
> 
> Details at ebay:
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/AMD-Phenom-II-X6-1090T-6x3-2GHz-16GB-GTX550Ti-USB-3-0-/380366066307?pt=DE_Technik_Computer_Peripherieger%C3%A4te_PC_Systeme&hash=item588f959283


Nope, that shouldn't happen. Sounds like they forgot to put some thermal paste on.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

@janmartin3









Is this you heatsink???? if it is... consider getting something a little bigger. XD


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*


@janmartin3









Is this you heatsink???? if it is... consider getting something a little bigger. XD


Wow I haven't seen one of those in years LoL







Looks like something I once considered to cool my AM2 dual core


----------



## janmartin3

The fan looks like your image and is labeled
"Alpine Pro 64 rev2".

Do I need something different put in when having the PC checked for the thermal paste?

I am going to have the PC crunch numbers on the CPU.
All 6 cores are at 100% at all time for that.
New fan needs to be very silent.

Suggestions please?
Be precise I am not into overclocking.

Thanks.


----------



## Benz

I'm sorry kzone75 I couldn't find anything regarding your issue with low ssd speeds.


----------



## janmartin3

Hi all,

the seller wrote he is sure the thermal paste has been applied.

Just to be sure not to make myself a fool I took out my digital camera and did screenshots of the BIOS:

BIOS Start screen

MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.)
MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T.)

Standard CMOS Features

Advanced BISO Features
Advanced BISO Features

Integrated Peripherals

Power Management Setup

PC Health Status
PC Health Status

Do you see any unusual/wrong settings that could cause the overheating, beeping and then freezing?

Thanks.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;15057861*
> I'm sorry kzone75 I couldn't find anything regarding your issue with low ssd speeds.


Well, I thank you very much for taking the time to search. You're awesome.







I asked around and was told that ATTO benchmark is able to show the right-ish speeds for the Sandforce controller.. http://www.overclock.net/ssd/1124720-slow-hyperx-120gb.html#post15046271

It really does feel a lot faster than the Vertex2. But by buying this I also lost half of the BD funds.







oh well, more overtime at work then..

@janmartin3 At the 2nd link for MB Intelligent Tweaker I notice that the Normal CPU Vcore is 1.4750V. That is WAY too high when not overclocking. My suggestion is to switch the System Voltage Control to Manual and change the CPU Voltage Control to around 1.3250V. That should also drop the temps quite a bit.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *janmartin3;15056245*
> The fan looks like your image and is labeled
> "Alpine Pro 64 rev2".
> 
> Do I need something different put in when having the PC checked for the thermal paste?
> 
> I am going to have the PC crunch numbers on the CPU.
> All 6 cores are at 100% at all time for that.
> New fan needs to be very silent.
> 
> Suggestions please?
> Be precise I am not into overclocking.
> 
> Thanks.


If that is your CPU Heatsink I agree you need to get a bigger-newer-better Heatsink and Fan! If you want to leave it on air try something like this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118080
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608016
or spend some time hear and choose something that works for you both in price and specs
http://www.newegg.com/Store/SubCategory.aspx?SubCategory=574&name=CPU-Fans-Heatsinks&Pagesize=100&Order=PRICED


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *janmartin3;15058081*
> Hi all,
> 
> Just to be sure not to make myself a fool I took out my digital camera and did screenshots of the BIOS:
> 
> Do you see any unusual/wrong settings that could cause the overheating, beeping and then freezing?
> 
> Thanks.












For me the rpm value is very high and considering the processor temp is already near 50ºC seems you need to cool down more your cpu chip. Just keep in mind you have a 6 core chip with a TDP of 130W at full use. No wonder it gets hot... beep and hang. Btw, what is your enviroment average temp?

PD: *Watching the manufacturer website (http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/cpu/15/alpine-64-pro.html#compatible) Seems the Alpine 64 PRO Rev.2 is not listed as a Phenom II X6 compatible heatsink. You have to talk to the ebay seller and claim for a refund.... you can short the life of that cpu chip. Just an advise







*

PD2: I just read this on the site: "Cooling Capacity 90W" lol

Alpine 64 PRO Rev.2


----------



## janmartin3

Environmental temperature is about 20 degrees Celsius.
The AMD Phenom II X6 1090t has a TDP off 125 Watt.
The Alpine 64 PRO Rev.2 fan has a TDP of just 90 Watt.

So there is 35 Watt of colling capacity missing.

I am in contact with the seller and provided him with a link to this thread too.

We will see.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15058885*
> Well, I thank you very much for taking the time to search. You're awesome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked around and was told that ATTO benchmark is able to show the right-ish speeds for the Sandforce controller.. http://www.overclock.net/ssd/1124720-slow-hyperx-120gb.html#post15046271
> 
> It really does feel a lot faster than the Vertex2. But by buying this I also lost half of the BD funds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh well, more overtime at work then..


Well I don't know about awesome (some people here hate me) but I try to help in every way I can.









I feel sorry for you for loosing money intended for Bulldozer/Zambezi.







I sympathize with you, I know how you feel, I'd be angry right now.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Well I don't know about awesome (some people here hate me) but I try to help in every way I can.









I feel sorry for you for loosing money intended for Bulldozer/Zambezi.







I sympathize with you, I know how you feel, I'd be angry right now.











It was not like I needed the HyperX. But it was there in the shop, looking all pretty. I had to buy it because there's no BD yet.







Now I am almost full circle. Only an 8-core missing and I am good to go. But then there's of course water cooling.. A better GPU or two.. And PSU.. Plus I will definitely sleeve said PSU.. Will this madness never end..?


----------



## willibj

Rate my overclock/temps!

Just bought the 990FXA-UD3 board (upgraded from an MA790XT-UD4P), which finally allowed me to run my RAM at above 1333mhz and my NB above 2550mhz (though admittedly I didn't have the x6 1090t in there for long; my old x3 720 (C2) unlocked to a quad was always holding me back - I had Mushkin 1600mhz CL7 ram that was running at 1235 CL6 because of memory bug).

I can get the 1090t to over 4ghz easily, but I like running lower volts where possible and enjoy the lower temps. Frankly the performance is already more than acceptable considering where I came from.

System as reads below.

Anyways, I'm thinking I'll be upgrading to one of the Bulldozer processors given I have cash flow currently and I did build this with that purpose in mind.

I'm probably going to get 2x 2gb MSI TFIII 6950's in crossfire beforehand too. Will my PSU be fine for this? I intend to overclock the bejesus out of those cards to 6970 levels, and of course my Bulldozer will push as high as I can reasonably get it.

I considered going Sandy Bridge, but frankly even if Bulldozer isn't quite on par I am an AMD fan (not fanboy, more loyal than anything, since the 666mhz Duron and Geforce 4 MX days) and the benefit of having my old system running as a media/storage/HDD server (and gaming backup with PhII quad/4gb/6850) and my new one as my primary gaming rig with (almost entirely) interchangeable parts seems wise.

Any comments on my logic and thought process?

Comments on my overclock and temps? (particularly you XD_1771)

(Edit* I realize my P95 only ran for 2+ hours here, but it's ~9hours blend stable which is enough for me - and this is with my system fans running on max, which the TMPIN temps are usually 2-3degrees higher and HDD's 1degree higher when on low, which I usually keep them at. I also realize that I only have 3 of my 4 storage HDD's running - one Samsung 2tb drive is not running as the UD3 has only 6 SATA ports and including my DVD drive I have 7 SATA units - this sucks big time, but it's spurred me on to put together my storage server and cut my gaming desktop down to SSD and programs drive only, so I can remove HDD cages and increase airflow to positive pressure finally)

Thanks for reading











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


It was not like I needed the HyperX. But it was there in the shop, looking all pretty. I had to buy it because there's no BD yet.







Now I am almost full circle. Only an 8-core missing and I am good to go. But then there's of course water cooling.. A better GPU or two.. And PSU.. Plus I will definitely sleeve said PSU.. Will this madness never end..?











Wait for the FX-8150/FX-8120, get another HD 6850 and a good quality Quad Rail PSU You really don't need anything else, for now anyway.









Quote:



Originally Posted by *willibj*


Rate my overclock/temps!

Just bought the 990FXA-UD3 board (upgraded from an MA790XT-UD4P), which finally allowed me to run my RAM at above 1333mhz and my NB above 2550mhz (though admittedly I didn't have the x6 1090t in there for long; my old x3 720 (C2) unlocked to a quad was always holding me back - I had Mushkin 1600mhz CL7 ram that was running at 1235 CL6 because of memory bug).

I can get the 1090t to over 4ghz easily, but I like running lower volts where possible and enjoy the lower temps. Frankly the performance is already more than acceptable considering where I came from.

System as reads below.

Anyways, I'm thinking I'll be upgrading to one of the Bulldozer processors given I have cash flow currently and I did build this with that purpose in mind.

I'm probably going to get 2x 2gb MSI TFIII 6950's in crossfire beforehand too. Will my PSU be fine for this? I intend to overclock the bejesus out of those cards to 6970 levels, and of course my Bulldozer will push as high as I can reasonably get it.

I considered going Sandy Bridge, but frankly even if Bulldozer isn't quite on par I am an AMD fan (not fanboy, more loyal than anything, since the 666mhz Duron and Geforce 4 MX days) and the benefit of having my old system running as a media/storage/HDD server (and gaming backup with PhII quad/4gb/6850) and my new one as my primary gaming rig with (almost entirely) interchangeable parts seems wise.

Any comments on my logic and thought process?

Comments on my overclock and temps? (particularly you XD_1771)

(Edit* I realize my P95 only ran for 2+ hours here, but it's ~9hours blend stable which is enough for me - and this is with my system fans running on max, which the TMPIN temps are usually 2-3degrees higher and HDD's 1degree higher when on low, which I usually keep them at. I also realize that I only have 3 of my 4 storage HDD's running - one Samsung 2tb drive is not running as the UD3 has only 6 SATA ports and including my DVD drive I have 7 SATA units - this sucks big time, but it's spurred me on to put together my storage server and cut my gaming desktop down to SSD and programs drive only, so I can remove HDD cages and increase airflow to positive pressure finally)

Thanks for reading











Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Your temps look fine, and your PSU will be more than enough to run an FX-8150, 2 6950s and your other thingies.


----------



## willibj

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Your temps look fine, and your PSU will be more than enough to run an FX-8150, 2 6950s and your other thingies.


Thanks for the reply - I've bumped myself up to 4080mhz @ 1.424/1.472v with only a small increase in temps (~1-2 degrees CPU) simply for the comfort of numbers. So superficial









Anyway, you mentioned above to someone that they should crossfire 6850's.

Is it worth me crossfiring 6950's overclocked (I'm thinking MSI TwinFrozrIII's) at significantly more expense or should I just crossfire my 6850?

I would want to get the same Gigabyte model which retails around ~Â£150 these days - it's a REALLY overpriced 6850 but it does get to over 6870 stock levels when overclocked and the dual fans are very good.

Regardless, I can get the MSI TFIII 6950 for ~Â£215 and I will have the cash flow (and desire) to crossfire, it'll just take a little longer.

The good thing about that plan is that my 6850 goes straight into the back-up gaming rig slash storage server I'm building with my old components, and can run as a makeshift HTPC, otherwise I'll need to buy a card for that too which will end up costing the same as a 6950 at least, and will leave my HTPC/gaming backup less capable.

Also, you said my PSU will be fine - will it be fine for an FX8150 and crossfire 6950's all heavily overclocked? I'll be removing the CD drive and storage HDD's, and adding a 2nd SSD for RAID eventually.


----------



## bajer29

Will be receiving the UD5 tomorrow with a 1100T! Seems like this board is pretty solid. Really excited about this years build


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


To anyone in this club, I have a GA-990FXA-UD5 and I've been trying to find out some real truth about this whole VDroop issue.







Some people say it's a flaw with the board and others say it's part of a proper design. I noticed there is no LLC in bios to keep voltage up when under load. Is this really an issue?







Do I need to pump in more voltages at idle to compensate for drop at load? Right now it takes me 1.55 volts to keep stable at 4.05 Ghz on my 965 C3.







1.5 volts works for a bit but will eventually crash during Prime 95. Temps are not an issue as the CPU is under water (RX360) and temps never go over 48 C even at 1.55 volts.







Any info would be greatly appreciated.










I dont think anyone knows for sure at this point. Its something we have all accepted and work around. VERY annoying in my opinion, and it was something I was hopin that they could fix but they havn't yet. Im just waiting for bulldozer to get here to see if there is some reason for it.


----------



## Tykjen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bajer29*


Will be receiving the UD5 tomorrow with a 1100T! Seems like this board is pretty solid. Really excited about this years build










Just got my own UD5+1100T up. Rock solid.


----------



## el gappo

Got


















Looks lovely, where the frig are the buttons !









Will probably put this one in a case


----------



## Rebelord

Sup guys! Well, I have a few questions for y'all. 
With my 990FXA-UD7, I have absurdly long POST Time. Almost a full 30 seconds..yes, thats correct 30 seconds...







I was wondering what is your post times, also what do I need to do bring it down? I have attached a video to show, its the 2nd boot up in the video. The video is also for a SSD question I have, that is in the SSD sub-forum. Will post that link once its up.

System: 
990FXA-UD7
1090T @ 3.6Ghz
Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24 1T 1.5v
OCZ Vertex 2 120G SSD (is not affected like the latest Vertex 3 drives)
WD Caviar Black 500G (Data drive)
LG DVD-RW

http://youtu.be/fT8eV6SLZMg?hd=1

  
 You Tube


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rebelord*


Sup guys! Well, I have a few questions for y'all. 
With my 990FXA-UD7, I have absurdly long POST Time. Almost a full 30 seconds..yes, thats correct 30 seconds...







I was wondering what is your post times, also what do I need to do bring it down? I have attached a video to show, its the 2nd boot up in the video. The video is also for a SSD question I have, that is in the SSD sub-forum. Will post that link once its up.

System: 
990FXA-UD7
1090T @ 3.6Ghz
Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24 1T 1.5v
OCZ Vertex 2 120G SSD (is not affected like the latest Vertex 3 drives)
WD Caviar Black 500G (Data drive)
LG DVD-RW

http://youtu.be/fT8eV6SLZMg?hd=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fT8eV...er_profilepage


Try to turn off legacy USB storage detect in the BIOS and then download Soluto.







That should help a bit.


----------



## Rebelord

Legacy USB is already disabled, so is the Marvell controller for the 6/7 sata ports and external sata ports.
And what would Soluto offer over a fresh install...?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rebelord*


And what would Soluto offer over a fresh install...?


Soluto is the first thing I install after a fresh install. Seems to help. My total restart time is about 35secs. Total boot time around 25...But I also have a lot of services turned off. What if you disable the full screen logo show? That sure takes its time as well..


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rebelord*


Sup guys! Well, I have a few questions for y'all. 
With my 990FXA-UD7, I have absurdly long POST Time. Almost a full 30 seconds..yes, thats correct 30 seconds...







I was wondering what is your post times, also what do I need to do bring it down? I have attached a video to show, its the 2nd boot up in the video. The video is also for a SSD question I have, that is in the SSD sub-forum. Will post that link once its up.

System: 
990FXA-UD7
1090T @ 3.6Ghz
Corsair Vengeance 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24 1T 1.5v
OCZ Vertex 2 120G SSD (is not affected like the latest Vertex 3 drives)
WD Caviar Black 500G (Data drive)
LG DVD-RW

http://youtu.be/fT8eV6SLZMg?hd=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fT8eV...er_profilepage


I've heard that the AMD 8 and 9 series chipsets have some issues with certain drives both standard and SSD drives. Mostly I've seen that people with long boot times ended up needing to update the firmware on their drives. But I have no idea if this is the problem in this case or not but might be worth looking into since all the other things in Bios that might case the problem are already disabled.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


I've heard that the AMD 8 and 9 series chipsets have some issues with certain drives both standard and SSD drives. Mostly I've seen that people with long boot times ended up needing to update the firmware on their drives. But I have no idea if this is the problem in this case or not but might be worth looking into since all the other things in Bios that might case the problem are already disabled.


My SSD is running latest firmware 1.35 for the OCZ Vertex 2. However, if you guys are having 25-30 total boot times, then something is wrong with my POST. Should not take this long by itself. Which is my question here, Why the F is POST all screwed up? BTW on Bios F5


----------



## Rebelord

If need be, I'll take pictures of every page of my BIOS. Maybe something is set wrong..


----------



## michintom

Does anyone have issues with vdroop?
During idle and load I go anywhere from 1.488 to 1.520

Also, can anyone chime in and see how my overclock is?
This is my first time oc'ing AMD


----------



## Rebelord

Well, I sent a Technical support request to Gigabyte regarding my long POST times, provided a link to my post here. Hopefully I hear something soon....


----------



## itsgucci

Just ordered 4x2GB Corsair XMS3 RAM.
Woulda been way cheaper if I just got 2x4 ???? RAM, but 4 sticks of XMS3 look really awesome, so why not..?
The build started taking shape:
Gigabyte 990FXA-D3
CoolerMaster Elite 430
Thermaltake Hard-Cano xRay (the car lighter thingy, no idea if I wrote it correct)
ATi Radeon HD2600 Pro 256mb DDR3 (will be specifically benchmarking on it)
To buy list:
AMD Phenom X6 1055T (will upgrade to Bulldozer when it comes out)
_8GB DDR3 1333mhz Corsair XMS3 RAM_ - Ordered
600w ??? PSU (Probably corsair builder)
1TB WesternDigital SATA III 6GB/S 32MB cache HDD

Getting close to finishing my PC, I'm so #$#%ing excited!


----------



## bajer29

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tykjen*


Just got my own UD5+1100T up. Rock solid.


Awesome! It should arrive at my door today! I will be assembling tonight and should have proof of my mobo tomorrow!


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rebelord*


Well, I sent a Technical support request to Gigabyte regarding my long POST times, provided a link to my post here. Hopefully I hear something soon....


I still have a feeling that it's going to be a firmware issue however they may not have a new firmware out yet to solve issues with the chipset. However I'm interested in how your system is running once it's up and running? Are you read write speeds what they should be and so on?


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


I still have a feeling that it's going to be a firmware issue however they may not have a new firmware out yet to solve issues with the chipset. However I'm interested in how your system is running once it's up and running? Are you read write speeds what they should be and so on?


I just did a fresh install of Win7 last night. I got the actual latest SB990 drivers from MSI's site actually. The ones Gigabyte have posted are old. However, trying to find them on AMD's site, no can do. I'm thinking they are using the same ones as the 8series chipsets. 
On that note, updating the chipset drivers did help in some overall speed. However, my SSD is still taking awhile to load Windows. Plus my POST time is still long. I may have a bad board. Because I am also noticing that sometimes non of the USB ports work. Which the BIOS doenst catch as a error, however Windows throws a fit because it cant detect any keyboard or mouse.

Edit: A side note. I am trying some overclocking with the board atm, and I must say. The Vdroop is crazy on this board. I have to set in the BIOS to 1.44v just to keep a stable 1.375 while under load. :=


----------



## Garanthor

Edit: A side note. I am trying some overclocking with the board atm, and I must say. The Vdroop is crazy on this board. I have to set in the BIOS to 1.44v just to keep a stable 1.375 while under load. :=[/QUOTE]

I agree. I've finally finished reading all the posts on this thread and I see that this issue has been discussed numerous times but there is no consensus on whether this is normal or not or how to overcome it (short of re-soldering some connections) besides increasing the voltage.

I do like Gigabyte boards but this is my one, frustrating, sore point. I think I'll have to go 1.55 or even 1.6 volts to get my 965 C3 stable at 4.05 ghz


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Edit: A side note. I am trying some overclocking with the board atm, and I must say. The Vdroop is crazy on this board. I have to set in the BIOS to 1.44v just to keep a stable 1.375 while under load. :=


I agree. I've finally finished reading all the posts on this thread and I see that this issue has been discussed numerous times but there is no consensus on whether this is normal or not or how to overcome it (short of re-soldering some connections) besides increasing the voltage.

I do like Gigabyte boards but this is my one, frustrating, sore point. I think I'll have to go 1.55 or even 1.6 volts to get my 965 C3 stable at 4.05 ghz







[/QUOTE]

Well, all we can hope for on this is that when Bulldozer comes out that the Vdroop issue will be a thing of the past. It is possible as Gigabyte says that they followed AMD's LLC specs to the letter for Bulldozer. If Bulldozer in it's step down to a 32nm process it might use less power! The current Intel processors only require around 1.35v to run at 4Ghz, meaning that they use less power to run stable at higher clocks. Lets hope that Bulldozer follows suit on this, cause I'm waiting to hear on this very point before I decide which board to buy.


----------



## Garanthor

I think I just found the answer I was looking for regarding the whole VDroop issue. Yes it was designed this way in strict accordance with AM3+ LLC specifications. Yes you can mod it but don't. Here is why (see picture): Without the mod, the idle voltage is higher that what is set in BIOS. At load it does drop below what you set in BIOS. If you mod it the idle voltage is still high (+75 mv) but also goes higher at load (+30 mv).







You seriously run the risk of frying your CPU or other components with this mod if you're not careful. Instead of this, simply raise the voltage a bit more than normal during an overclock on this board rather than complaining or trying to mod the board which has a properly designed VDroop for your protection (and for the upcoming Bulldozer chips).

P.S. No it's not because Gigabyte was trying to cut corners or save a buck....just the opposite. They wanted to ensure the board was built to AMD's exacting AM3+ specifications.







No there is no BIOS "fix" coming out for the VDroop because it's NOT an issue.

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images...esettings.png/


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I think I just found the answer I was looking for regarding the whole VDroop issue. Yes it was designed this way in strict accordance with AM3+ LLC specifications. Yes you can mod it but don't. Here is why (see picture): Without the mod, the idle voltage is higher that what is set in BIOS. At load it does drop below what you set in BIOS. If you mod it the idle voltage is still high (+75 mv) but also goes higher at load (+30 mv).







You seriously run the risk of frying your CPU or other components with this mod if you're not careful. Instead of this, simply raise the voltage a bit more than normal during an overclock on this board rather than complaining or trying to mod the board which has a properly designed VDroop for your protection (and for the upcoming Bulldozer chips).

P.S. No it's not because Gigabyte was trying to cut corners or save a buck....just the opposite. They wanted to ensure the board was built to AMD's exacting AM3+ specifications.







No there is no BIOS "fix" coming out for the VDroop because it's NOT an issue.


This is exactly what I've been thinking and kinda what I was getting at in my last post. I just never saw a company like Gigabyte making such a high end product with so many awesome features such as the UD7 with such a huge flaw and do nothing to solve it. If current release dates hold true then in about 2 weeks we should start to hear about how these boards perform with the new processors


----------



## LBear

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


I think I just found the answer I was looking for regarding the whole VDroop issue. Yes it was designed this way in strict accordance with AM3+ LLC specifications. Yes you can mod it but don't. Here is why (see picture): Without the mod, the idle voltage is higher that what is set in BIOS. At load it does drop below what you set in BIOS. If you mod it the idle voltage is still high (+75 mv) but also goes higher at load (+30 mv).







You seriously run the risk of frying your CPU or other components with this mod if you're not careful. Instead of this, simply raise the voltage a bit more than normal during an overclock on this board rather than complaining or trying to mod the board which has a properly designed VDroop for your protection (and for the upcoming Bulldozer chips).

P.S. No it's not because Gigabyte was trying to cut corners or save a buck....just the opposite. They wanted to ensure the board was built to AMD's exacting AM3+ specifications.







No there is no BIOS "fix" coming out for the VDroop because it's NOT an issue.


Someone has done their research, good job. I dont think BD will take a huge vdroop hit like the x6 cpus do, but we will see.


----------



## Rebelord

^^^As for the Vdroop on my board. I actually got my board from Sin. So, I am in touch with him about it. So far he has told me for my particular board. I will need to set it to 1.5-1.55v to maintain ~1.4 under load 1.45 idle. Which clears up alot. So will be trying that. He also did say he hit 4.2Ghz easy. So, my hopes are high!! Just hope my temps arent!

Rebelord


----------



## Rocket Dog

That vdroop is a disaster, glad I stayed away from these boards now.

Sent from my X10i using Tapatalk


----------



## reflex99

Them there droop is a pretty big deal breaker.....

I really wanted a UD5 too.

Looks like MSI, UD3, or something else it is.

Giga, WHY YOU NO REALIZE WE DON'T LIKE DROOP


----------



## Rebelord

So, I did achieve my max stable overclock. 
CPU 3.8Ghz @ 1.36v (1.424 in bios)
NB 3Ghz 1.3v
HT 2Ghz

I am limited only by this dinky 212+; well its actually quite large, just cant keep the 1090t cool at all. Even with 4 direct touch heat pipes. I even used fresh MX4 and filled the gaps. =( Hitting 54/55*+ at 3.9Ghz..but 3.8 I stay 50 or below. =(

Rebelord


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reflex99;15109295*
> Them there droop is a pretty big deal breaker.....
> 
> I really wanted a UD5 too.
> 
> Looks like MSI, UD3, or something else it is.
> 
> Giga, WHY YOU NO REALIZE WE DON'T LIKE DROOP


Is it confirmed that this vdroop issue is present only on Gigabyte moldels?? the CHV has this thing?


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;15111009*
> Is it confirmed that this vdroop issue is present only on Gigabyte moldels?? the CHV has this thing?


Yup, gigas problem. Shouldn't be an issue on air but ln2 etc.. things get a bit more tricky.


----------



## Tykjen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bajer29*


Awesome! It should arrive at my door today! I will be assembling tonight and should have proof of my mobo tomorrow!


Sweet







How did it go? I recently updated the BIOS as it was slow posting info on every reboot. The only thing I am not too sure of, is the changed ram slots, and if I have the ram in the right slots. Programs are telling me I am using slot 2 and 4. But the mobo had it switched around, with slot 1 being FURTHEST away from the cpu. So I placed it in 1 and 3, getting unganged dual channel mode..speeds are fine. So I guess I should relax.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Tykjen*


Sweet







How did it go? I recently updated the BIOS as it was slow posting info on every reboot. The only thing I am not too sure of, is the changed ram slots, and if I have the ram in the right slots. Programs are telling me I am using slot 2 and 4. But the mobo had it switched around, with slot 1 being FURTHEST away from the cpu. So I placed it in 1 and 3, getting unganged dual channel mode..speeds are fine. So I guess I should relax.


Everything is running extremely well. Using F5 BIOS with no problems flashing. Drivers installed extremely easy except GPU drivers of course (GO AWAY MS, I don't want your crappy generic drivers). I am using the stock heatsync and fan for my 1100T with extremely cool temps (24C idle). The only problem I am having is my video card is crashing my comp, but this is an old problem. Everything seems to be working great.

Not sure if I will be OCing my 1100T any time soon. I'll wait to see if UD5s get their voltage droop fixed/ wait for BD to hit the shelves and OC that... I dunno, extremely sexy looking board with performance. Can't as for much better


----------



## kevinf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;15111009*
> Is it confirmed that this vdroop issue is present only on Gigabyte moldels?? the CHV has this thing?


This issue doesn't exist (nearly to this degree), on the 990xa so its not a "gigabyte" issue. As mentioned on the previous page, *it is by design*. Shame you guys paid more for this mobo, and are having a harder time overclocking to 4Ghz < 1.5V.


----------



## Tykjen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29;15115780*
> Everything is running extremely well. Using F5 BIOS with no problems flashing. Drivers installed extremely easy except GPU drivers of course (GO AWAY MS, I don't want your crappy generic drivers). I am using the stock heatsync and fan for my 1100T with extremely cool temps (24C idle). The only problem I am having is my video card is crashing my comp, but this is an old problem. Everything seems to be working great.
> 
> Not sure if I will be OCing my 1100T any time soon. I'll wait to see if UD5s get their voltage droop fixed/ wait for BD to hit the shelves and OC that... I dunno, extremely sexy looking board with performance. Can't as for much better


The setup is running pretty nicely now, I see no reason to OC just yet, 3,7ghz is plenty heh. Using stock fan as well but its pretty noisy. Will get that sexy lil watercooler by Corsair soon enough. Battlefield 3 beta runs like a dream with everything maxed but AA and AF.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinf;15116249*
> This issue doesn't exist (nearly to this degree), on the 990xa so its not a "gigabyte" issue. As mentioned on the previous page, *it is by design*. Shame you guys paid more for this mobo, and are having a harder time overclocking to 4Ghz < 1.5V.


I've got an UD3 and living happy as a king!


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;15117277*
> I've got an UD3 and living happy as a king!


Me too.







Running at 4GHz at the moment with only 1.392V. Drops to 1.376V during load, but it's still stable.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinf;15116249*
> This issue doesn't exist (nearly to this degree), on the 990xa so its not a "gigabyte" issue. As mentioned on the previous page, *it is by design*. Shame you guys paid more for this mobo, and are having a harder time overclocking to 4Ghz < 1.5V.


Yup, what he said.







What's a shame is that some people only hear what they want to hear.


----------



## vinton13

I have a quick noob question.
I just ordered this board and I plan to use my current CPU with it...where is the 4pin connector?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13;15119310*
> I have a quick noob question.
> I just ordered this board and I plan to use my current CPU with it...where is the 4pin connector?


All 4 boards have 8 pins connectors. Look at the first post and search in the right upper corner of the motherboard.


----------



## vinton13

So I have to use all 8 pins, am I correct?


----------



## LBear

The AM3+ power design is meant for BD. Thats why we r having the huge vdroop or vdroop, cause *we r using turban cpus and not the FX cpus*. Like i said before the x6 turbans take a huge vdroop hit than others. U can simply disable a core, 2 or 3 an then vdroop is less. If u dont want to do that u have to pump more voltage. The only thing gigabyte didnt do was give us an LLC option in the bios like other boards. UD7 and UD5 volts regulator work differently than the UD3.

Just because they didnt give an LLC option mean these boards suck. If u get a UD5 or 7 use a workaround til u put the right chip in or just wait for a new rev.... nuff said


----------



## vinton13

Soooo.....do I use all eight pins or what?
I'm sorry. I just never used a board of this caliber.

And will the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ work with this board?


----------



## LBear

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


Soooo.....do I use all eight pins or what? 
I'm sorry. I just never used a board of this caliber.

And will the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ work with this board?


no u dont have to use all 8 pins


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


Soooo.....do I use all eight pins or what? 
I'm sorry. I just never used a board of this caliber.

And will the Cooler Master Hyper 212+ work with this board?


The Hyper 212+ will work fine.


----------



## vinton13

Thanks.

Last question...if I do use eight pins, would that cause damage?


----------



## janmartin3

Original posting:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1023100-official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-118.html#post15049562

Just to report that the seller provided a 200 Watt CPU fan for free:
Arctic Cooling Freezer13 [20258]
UCACO-FZ130-BL

He indeed did install a fan that was 35 Watts short in cooling. The overheating problem has been solved.

Last remaining problem:
The PC shop that installed the SSD also updated the BIOS to version F4.
Unfortunately I then could not manage to boot from USB stick to install the Operating system. Had to burn a DVD.
I already tried all options one-by-one when switching on an pressing "Del".

BIOS screenshots:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1023100-official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-118.html#post15058081

Any ideas what might be wrong?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


Thanks.

Last question...if I do use eight pins, would that cause damage?


No damage would be done with all 8 pins used.


----------



## rakesh27

Guys,

Ive just come from a MSI 790FX GD70 to a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD7. Where should i start.

1) 2 days of waisting time as my mobo wouldnt stay on no more then 30secs, relised one of the motherboard stand off's was loose causing a short, drove me mad

2) Installed Windows 7 got all my drives working and the hdd light was constantly being read, i thought i must of had something running in the background doing a scan, then relised the DVD drives would disappear. Swapped the sata ports fixed the problem.

3) I then overclocked to my previous settings on my MSI board, without a problem straight upto 4ghz on P2 965 and ram 1T 1600 Dual channel along with nb 2800 htt 2600. Thinking yes this baby is purring along nicely

I was very dubious about getting this board due to the fact of the vdroop issue, at first when setting this monster up i thought i had a dud board (here we go RMA time). Now that ive updated the bios, ironed out a few problems its working flawelessly not a problem (touch wood).

Anyone wanting to purchase one of these 9-series dont be put off, they are solid boards you just need to be patient and try out all possiblities if you have a problem, one thing though always get a decent qaulity PSU, and when buying parts again do the same, then 9 times out of 10 you wont have trouble.

Im loving the UD7, i love the slot layout, perfect for what i have...


----------



## bicen

Has anyone been able to get their 1100T OC to 4.2 stable with the UD5? I can get to 4.1 w/ a 3000mhz NB but anything higher seems to crash. I've tried lowering the NB but it doesn't seem to make a difference and my 1100T @ 4.1 is stable with 1.475v and NB at 1.325 currently. I've seen it done and I just switched from an H60 to an H100 hoping that I might be able to push it a little further. The vdroop over 1.5 is just too much it seems.

Also, I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get my memory OC. I have 16gb of HyperX 1600 @ 9-9-9-24 but anything other than that seems to crash, even when I up the voltage. I guess coming from Intel's last generation chips I am not very familiar with AMD's NB, Ram, Cpu configuration and how they all are connected and effected by one another.


----------



## vinton13

One last question...should I use the on board audio over my Xonar D1? I am using the UD7.


----------



## Garanthor

Ok, I just ran a little voltage experiment. My 965 C3 at 3.8 Ghz and 1.4 V only drops to 1.39 V at load.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;15129952*
> Ok, I just ran a little voltage experiment. My 965 C3 at 3.8 Ghz and 1.4 V only drops to 1.39 V at load.


Garanthor, the x4 Deneb core processors don't have nearly the vdroop issues that the x6 Thuban cores do. Is that what you're asking? Why you're not experiencing the vdroop issue as everyone else is? I have a x4 955 and I don't have much vdroop either.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15130708*
> Garanthor, the x4 Deneb core processors don't have nearly the vdroop issues that the x6 Thuban cores do. Is that what you're asking? Why you're not experiencing the vdroop issue as everyone else is? I have a x4 955 and I don't have much vdroop either.


Ah...I see. So it only applies to the 6 core Thubans. I just came back to check voltages after 2 hours Prime 95 and in fact I did hit a max of 1.41 V (setting in BIOS was 1.4 V) so absolutely no Vdroop at all on the 4 core CPUs it seems.









I wonder how this will run with the eight core BD chips.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Garanthor*


Ah...I see. So it only applies to the 6 core Thubans. I just came back to check voltages after 2 hours Prime 95 and in fact I did hit a max of 1.41 V (setting in BIOS was 1.4 V) so absolutely no Vdroop at all on the 4 core CPUs it seems.









I wonder how this will run with the eight core BD chips.










Well, that's good to know since I'll be grabbing my UD7 in a couple of weeks and I'll be moving my 965 BE over to it until I can afford to get a Bulldozer.


----------



## vinton13

My question? :s

Quote:



...should I use the on board audio over my Xonar D1? I am using the UD7.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


My question? :s


Only if you really need to.. Onboard is actually very good (the best onboard audio that I've heard). But my age might be playing tricks on my ears.


----------



## Tykjen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


One last question...should I use the on board audio over my Xonar D1? I am using the UD7.


I always use the soundcard before any realtek. Been using the xfi for several years now, holds well up.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


One last question...should I use the on board audio over my Xonar D1? I am using the UD7.


Depends on what you're outputting your sound to!
If you're outputting sound to actual PC speakers or you use a headset allot then putting your Xonar back in might be a good thing, as onboard audio usually doesn't power headsets very well. However if you're outputting sound to a home theater receiver with a Spdif/Toslink cable then the onboard is more than enough since the receiver does all the sound processing and all your computer does is send the audio signal out. From what I'm reading the onboard audio on the UD7 is one of the best people have ever heard, but don't think I've seen much on how it handles powering a headset. In the end what I'd do is try both ways and see which one you like best, only your ears can tell you what you like better in the way of sound


----------



## vinton13

Okay guys. Thanks.








Grrrrr. I hope I didn't waste money on that sound card.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


Okay guys. Thanks.









Grrrrr. I hope I didn't waste money on that sound card.


If you don't feel good with that sound card.... you can sell it to me







for a nice price









I'm considering getting an Asus DX just to take advantage of the little amp to drive my cans better


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Anyone heard anything about waterblocks for the UD3/UD5? I see EK have done one for the UD7 but the board layouts are slightly different so I doubt that it would fit on my UD3.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;15139207*
> Anyone heard anything about waterblocks for the UD3/UD5? I see EK have done one for the UD7 but the board layouts are slightly different so I doubt that it would fit on my UD3.


I have not seen anything for the UD3, only the UD5 and UD7. But if the UD3 continues to be more popular than the other 2 than I don't see why someone won't come up with something


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15139259*
> I have not seen anything for the UD3, only the UD5 and UD7. But if the UD3 continues to be more popular than the other 2 than I don't see why someone won't come up with something


For the UD5 eh? May I ask where you saw that? Would like to keep an eye on whoever has made it in case they do a UD3 version too


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


For the UD5 eh? May I ask where you saw that? Would like to keep an eye on whoever has made it in case they do a UD3 version too










http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10...?tl=g30c89s147

Wow read this in more detail and I actually think it says it will work on the UD3, but only for the north bridge and the mosfet area. Click on the Compatibility link under Product description, It's says you'll have to use the stock south bridge heatsink. Though it doesn't say it works on the UD5, I think the UD3 and 5 use the same PCB so the mounting holes for the heat sinks are the same so it should work for both. As for the UD7 here is what I found:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14...?tl=g30c89s147

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14...?tl=g30c89s147


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

I'm curious. Are there any downsides to these boards? Do they have UEFI?


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl*


I'm curious. Are there any downsides to these boards? Do they have UEFI?


There is a debate on this but some are having a Vdroop issue with the UD5 and UD7 mainly with the 6 core processors. It doesn't seems to be an issue with the UD3 as it uses a different type of power delivery circuitry. Now Gigabyte says that it isn't a design flaw that they followed AMD's specifications for AMD+/Bulldozer to the letter. So those that are experiencing issues are hoping that when they drop in a BD chip it will go away. However some do not seem to be having any problems at all. And as for the last they do not have a true UEFI BIOS, Gigabyte is calling it a Hybrid EFI Bios. They say it combines aspects of old and new, but to me it looks like it's more or less the standard Bios with added 3TB+ Hard drive support.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


And as for the last they do not have a true UEFI BIOS, Gigabyte is calling it a Hybrid EFI Bios. They say it combines aspects of old and new, but to me it looks like it's more or less the standard Bios with added 3TB+ Hard drive support.


What is possible with them is to utilize there "Touch Bios" option software. Where in Windows or your OS of choice. You can see the Bios settings and change them to what you would like, then reboot to take affect. Kinda like the software for OCing.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;15145479*
> What is possible with them is to utilize there "Touch Bios" option software. Where in Windows or your OS of choice. You can see the Bios settings and change them to what you would like, then reboot to take affect. Kinda like the software for OCing.


This is true, however this is no different then the way we've been able to do things for years now. I have that basic option on my AM2+ board, granted the software has undoubtedly become more advanced and easier to use. But you still have to reboot in order for the settings you make to take effect, while a true UEFI allows you to make them on the fly while in your OS. Not saying that waiting for the reboot is really that big of a deal just trying to lay out the differences between What Gigabyte is using and what some others are now using. I personally don't really care if my next build has a UEFI or not as I see things this way, once you get everything set up the way you want it how often do you really go into the Bios to make changes? Not often in my case!


----------



## bicen

I have the X-Fi Fatal1ty Plat card but haven't installed it because I figured the onboard supported a higher quality (24bit 192khz) format where as the X-Fi only supports 96khz. Can anyone verify whether my onboard outperforms the x-fi card? I can't seem to find anything on google.


----------



## bajer29

Add me to the club, please







Looks like no one new is joining or don't care :/


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29;15149259*
> Add me to the club, please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like no one new is joining or don't care :/


The club owner has not been on OCN for 3 weeks..







I am sure you'll be added ASAP.


----------



## Cosanostra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicen;15148912*
> I have the X-Fi Fatal1ty Plat card but haven't installed it because I figured the onboard supported a higher quality (24bit 192khz) format where as the X-Fi only supports 96khz. Can anyone verify whether my onboard outperforms the x-fi card? I can't seem to find anything on google.


I'd say it depends on what you are wanting to use it for. If you are listening to music, games, etc. through the analog output with quality headphones or desktop speakers then the DAC on the sound card _may_ sound better to you. I do prefer the sound of my X-Fi Elite Pro to the on-board audio with headphones. Perhaps others will have comments to add with regard to decoding Blu-ray multichannel HD audio for movies. Also, if your ears are older than 30, or you've attended lots of concerts, it may not really matter which you use from a quality standpoint.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


The club owner has not been on OCN for 3 weeks..







I am sure you'll be added ASAP.










Thanks for the response


----------



## Maich

hi 990fxa ud3 owners!
i was wondering, what are your NB temps?
i think mine is rather hot, idling at 50C and 71C under load
im guessing its tmpin2 cause nothing else gets that hot to the touch


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Maich*


hi 990fxa ud3 owners!
i was wondering, what are your NB temps?
i think mine is rather hot, idling at 50C and 71C under load
im guessing its tmpin2 cause nothing else gets that hot to the touch


I always thought that the TMPIN2 was the NB. I know it was on my old mobo. But now I am not so sure. There's no reason for the NB to fluctuate that much in temps.. So I believe that TMPIN2 is for the VRMs. If you put the puter in hibernation for a few seconds, the readings will be lower.
Makes me think that the temp monitoring software is not that reliable.









But the NB temp is indeed in the mid 40s.


----------



## Obfuscator

Hello everyone, thanks for your input in this thread. I find your feedback useful for my next build. I have been following this thread since it started, prior to that, I had been following the GA-890FXA-UD5 thread since November of last year (off and on).

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bajer29*


...Looks like no one new is joining or don't care :/


I will be joining the ranks of the GA-990FXA-UD5 users in a month or two. I am planning on getting an AMD Phenom II X4 980 BE for use with it. I am planning on cooling my CPU with a Noctua NH-U12P SE2 (if it will fit inside my case).


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Obfuscator*


Hello everyone, thanks for your input in this thread. I find your feedback useful for my next build. I have been following this thread since it started, prior to that, I had been following the GA-890FXA-UD5 thread since November of last year (off and on).

I will be joining the ranks of the GA-990FXA-UD5 users in a month or two. I am planning on getting an AMD Phenom II X4 980 BE for use with it. I am planning on cooling my CPU with a Noctua NH-U12P SE2 (if it will fit inside my case).


Before you spend the money on the 980BE with in the next couple of weeks the Bulldozer chips should be out, so you might want to wait and see what they will cost compared to the 980.


----------



## billy66bare

Any word on finding which temperature is which in Coretemp/Aida64?


----------



## BramSLI1

I could really use some help. I've recently been getting this error message and when it shows up my computer usually freezes. It doesn't always freeze, but when it does I have to hit the re-set button to re-start my computer. Does anyone know what this is and what I can do to get rid of it? I've disabled all of the thermal monitoring settings in my BIOS and I'm still getting this error occasionally. The fan that is hooked up to my CPU fan header is actually on my RX360 radiator. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15156292*
> I could really use some help. I've recently been getting this error message and when it shows up my computer usually freezes. It doesn't always freeze, but when it does I have to hit the re-set button to re-start my computer. Does anyone know what this is and what I can do to get rid of it? I've disabled all of the thermal monitoring settings in my BIOS and I'm still getting this error occasionally. The fan that is hooked up to my CPU fan header is actually on my RX360 radiator. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated


It may be one of the monitoring programs you have, trying to get a reading from the motherboard about fan speed etc. Since you have monitoring disabled, might be causing haywire causing that message.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15156292*
> I could really use some help. I've recently been getting this error message and when it shows up my computer usually freezes. It doesn't always freeze, but when it does I have to hit the re-set button to re-start my computer. Does anyone know what this is and what I can do to get rid of it? I've disabled all of the thermal monitoring settings in my BIOS and I'm still getting this error occasionally. The fan that is hooked up to my CPU fan header is actually on my RX360 radiator. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated


Does this only happen when the mentioned CPU cooler is attached? You could try the stock fan to see if it fixes the problem. I haven't really heard of a fan header causing crashes. Are you using two fan headers for the RX360? If so switch the radiator fan header with the pump header so it's like this:

radiator fan- system fan header
RX360 pump- CPU fan header

If this fixes it, your monitoring can be turned back on with no further problems.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15156292*
> I could really use some help. I've recently been getting this error message and when it shows up my computer usually freezes. It doesn't always freeze, but when it does I have to hit the re-set button to re-start my computer. Does anyone know what this is and what I can do to get rid of it? I've disabled all of the thermal monitoring settings in my BIOS and I'm still getting this error occasionally. The fan that is hooked up to my CPU fan header is actually on my RX360 radiator. If someone could point me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29;15159105*
> Does this only happen when the mentioned CPU cooler is attached? You could try the stock fan to see if it fixes the problem. I haven't really heard of a fan header causing crashes. Are you using two fan headers for the RX360? If so switch the radiator fan header with the pump header so it's like this:
> 
> radiator fan- system fan header
> RX360 pump- CPU fan header
> 
> If this fixes it, your monitoring can be turned back on with no further problems.


As the RX360 kits pump has a molex power plug I know you won't be able to do the above. I've never seen an error message like this but I've always run all my rad fans to molex adapters and then hooked my rear case fan to my CPU fan header. I'd try going into the Bios to the area where you can monitor fan speeds and just watch what the CPU fan speed does over a extended period of time. My thoughts are that for some reason the fan stops reporting correct fan speeds as I'm sure you've already made sure the fan in question is running. Every 3-4 pin fan has a very small circuit board in it and one of the things it does is monitor the fan speed and report it to the computer via that Yellow wire or pin 3. If for some reason that circuit board is not working properly it may intermittently stop reporting the correct speed or stop reporting all together. You could also simply try hooking a different fan up to the cpu header and see what happens. Hope this helps and good luck to ya.


----------



## Obfuscator

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


Before you spend the money on the 980BE with in the next couple of weeks the Bulldozer chips should be out, so you might want to wait and see what they will cost compared to the 980.


Thanks, but that is exactly what I am doing. I am in no hurry, so I can wait a while and make my purchasing decisions carefully.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Obfuscator*


Thanks, but that is exactly what I am doing. I am in no hurry, so I can wait a while and make my purchasing decisions carefully.


Are you planning on OCing? I would imagine you know the complications people are facing since you have been following the thread. I'm happy without no OC for now, just making sure you knew before making a purchase such as this.


----------



## vasboz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Obfuscator*


Hello everyone, thanks for your input in this thread. I find your feedback useful for my next build. I have been following this thread since it started, prior to that, I had been following the GA-890FXA-UD5 thread since November of last year (off and on).

I will be joining the ranks of the GA-990FXA-UD5 users in a month or two. I am planning on getting an AMD Phenom II X4 980 BE for use with it. I am planning on cooling my CPU with a Noctua NH-U12P SE2 (if it will fit inside my case).


Why not look at getting a closed water cooling kit? I got a H100 Corsair for use with my temporary 965be until I wait to throw in Bulldozer.

The CPU temps via speccy are 22* Celsius and my core temps are 31. Can't really go wrong with that. You do needa big case though, for my 990FX UD5 I needed to get a Coolermaster HAF932 to fit in the push/pull config I was after.


----------



## Rebelord

^^^Speaking of tight fits, my UD7 barely fits into my old Antec 300 case. I had to remove my DVD drive in order to install the MB. If you try to use more than one DVD drive, it wont work in the Antec 300 because of where the 24pin power connection is. However, this is just my experience with the UD7 in the Antec 300.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Obfuscator*


Thanks, but that is exactly what I am doing. I am in no hurry, so I can wait a while and make my purchasing decisions carefully.


No worries, I was looking at some reviews on the 980 after replying to your earlier post and wow it looks like an awesome chip. Hell I'm half tempted to grab one too LoL


----------



## Maich

On the 990FXA-UD3 temp sensors, i was mad at not knowing what was 71C on TMPIN2 so i decided to test with focused cooling to see where the temps dropped.
EVERY temp seemed unrespnsive to my fans except TMPIN0 which i found to be located in the lower right part of the mobo, the southbridge im guessing (dropped from 41 to 28C with the fan on there). or perhaps could be mobo temp?

Then, on TMPIN1, ive noticed it follows closeley my core temps (+-3C) so its maybe socket temp or something like that.

That leaves me with TMPIN2 being NB or the mosfets. if so, which one of those doesnt have a tmpin? still it isnt sure if tmpin1 is socket or something like that so that could be one of those but to my knowledge they dont follow core temp so closeley.

After 2 hours of testing, and with more questions that answers, i was just left with a big *** on tmpin1 and tmpin2

So have anyone found out anything on this yet?


----------



## BramSLI1

WeirdHarold, thanks for the advice. I just got back from work and I'll try changing my fans around to different headers. I've got to be honest though, this happens very randomly. The last time was about two weeks ago. I'm just worried because it usually locks up my entire system when the message comes up. I'll keep you posted on what I find. Thanks again.


----------



## BramSLI1

Just want to let everyone know that I just ordered the EK chipset and MOSFET water block for the UD7. As I had stated previously I'm not too pleased with my TMPIN2 temperature and I'm pretty sure that's the North Bridge and MOSFETs. I'm getting temps in the low to high 60s when at full load. I'm hoping that this water block takes care of that issue. It should also give me extra overclocking headroom.







I'll keep you guys and gals posted on how it goes. The kit should arrive in the next couple of days. Wish me luck.


----------



## robbo2

Cool Bram! Post some pictures up when you have it installed man.


----------



## BramSLI1

robbo2, I sure will. Would you like to see some pics as it's being installed or just final installation pics?


----------



## robbo2

Some final pics would be great







as well as some results on the temperature drop. Be good to see if it's worth installing a block or just having a fan blowing over the VRM's.


----------



## BramSLI1

Sounds good. I'll keep everyone posted on how it goes and how well it actually performs. It costs about 85 bucks so it better be worth it.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Yeah I'll be interested to see what kind of difference it make as well, especially as I'm planing on grabbing the UD7 with in the next month I hope.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

I'm keen to see it too


----------



## SSJVegeta

I take it only the rev 1.2 boards have out-of-the-box Bulldozer support and the older rev boards require an Phenom etc to update the BIOS for BD support?


----------



## robbo2

Anything from bios f5 supports it. Not to sure what mine shipped with but it wasn't F5 so I guess it would be safe to assume.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2;15179727*
> Anything from bios f5 supports it. Not to sure what mine shipped with but it wasn't F5 so I guess it would be safe to assume.


I think they ship with F3>


----------



## Rebelord

Its pretty easy to flash to F5 bios. However, what I did notice is. If you have any other files on your thumbdrive. Even if in a separate directory. The QFlash wont find the bios. So I had to have the bios on a blank thumbdrive.


----------



## willibj

This feels like a potentially stupid question, but am I able to run a PCIe x1 sounds card in the very lowest PCIe x4 slot on my UD3?

Basically the PCIe x1 cards with their tiny little 2-prong connector thingys don't look like they'd fit the much longer slot of regular PCIe slots and I can't find a clear answer after googling for a half hour.

I currently have an Asus Xonar DG populating my PCI slot and my wi-fi card in the PCIe x1 (top slot, next to NB heatsink).

As it stands, I cannot crossfire, but if I could purchase a PCIe sound card and run it in the bottom PCIe x4 slot, freeing up the PCI slot above, I could feasibly crossfire my inbound 2gb MSI TFIII 6950 PE/OC, which would leave me really chuffed









Thanks in advance.

*Edit - my gut instincts tell me that once I overclock the hell out of my 6950 I won't care, given that my current plan is to stick single-GPU and upgrade to the GTX600 or HD7000 series early-mid next year. Still, nice to know my options regardless ...


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:



Originally Posted by *robbo2*


Anything from bios f5 supports it. Not to sure what mine shipped with but it wasn't F5 so I guess it would be safe to assume.


Then I guess I'll just grab a friends old Phenom II to flash to the latest bios if/when I build the Bulldozer rig.


----------



## BramSLI1

willibj said:


> This feels like a potentially stupid question, but am I able to run a PCIe x1 sounds card in the very lowest PCIe x4 slot on my UD3?
> 
> They will work in that slot just fine. The PCIe full lane slots are capable of being used with any PCIe cards.


----------



## 16ReasonsWhy

does anyone besides EK make full board blocks for the UD7?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *16ReasonsWhy*


does anyone besides EK make full board blocks for the UD7?


EK are the only ones to offer one so far. They make two versions of it though. One with a clear acrylic top and one with a black acetal top.


----------



## 16ReasonsWhy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


EK are the only ones to offer one so far. They make two versions of it though. One with a clear acrylic top and one with a black acetal top.


yeah i checked them out and saw. I was hoping there'd be a heatkiller version but form their forums sounds unlikely. thanks


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*


I take it only the rev 1.2 boards have out-of-the-box Bulldozer support and the older rev boards require an Phenom etc to update the BIOS for BD support?


All of the 9 series chipset boards will support bulldozer, some of the recent Bios updates include patches for better support for bulldozer as AMD starts to release more of the specs on the chips. The F5 bios for instance says: "Update CPU AGESA 0.0.9.2 for AM3+" the key word here is Update. They are just trying to minimize issues when bulldozer is released, I have a feeling that even a board with the F1 bios would recognize a bulldozer chip but might not fully support all of it's functions till you update the bios.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *willibj*


This feels like a potentially stupid question, but am I able to run a PCIe x1 sounds card in the very lowest PCIe x4 slot on my UD3?

Basically the PCIe x1 cards with their tiny little 2-prong connector thingys don't look like they'd fit the much longer slot of regular PCIe slots and I can't find a clear answer after googling for a half hour.

I currently have an Asus Xonar DG populating my PCI slot and my wi-fi card in the PCIe x1 (top slot, next to NB heatsink).

As it stands, I cannot crossfire, but if I could purchase a PCIe sound card and run it in the bottom PCIe x4 slot, freeing up the PCI slot above, I could feasibly crossfire my inbound 2gb MSI TFIII 6950 PE/OC, which would leave me really chuffed









Thanks in advance.

*Edit - my gut instincts tell me that once I overclock the hell out of my 6950 I won't care, given that my current plan is to stick single-GPU and upgrade to the GTX600 or HD7000 series early-mid next year. Still, nice to know my options regardless ...


A PCIe x16 physical slot will support x16,x4 and x1 cards so you should have no problem installing your x1 sound card in any of the x16 slots. I also believe that you can use a x4 slot for a x1 card, but I've never tried it since the x16 slots were always in a better location for my needs.


----------



## hellr4isEr

i shall join this club soon as i finish studying









can anyone explain or give reasons as to why this board (boards) is better than the crosshair v or the sabertooth? 990fx obviously..

I have the UD5 just in case that matters..


----------



## Groosome

Hi guys new here and I have some questions regarding the UD3.

About 4 months ago I purchased an MSI 870A Fuzion Power Edition Motherboard and threw it into my machine. I was curious on how the hydra chip-set would perform... needless to say the north bridge (temp2) had overheating issues and I was getting random shut downs and the OS freezing once a day on average. Mind you this was at a basic 400mhz OC.

I would see temps of 45 idle and 60+ under load some times. So I placed an 80mm fan over it and while that dropped the temp I was still getting random PC shutdowns and OS freezes.

So I ripped that sucker out and purchased a GA-990FXA-UD3. I rebuilt my system today and I'm still seeing temps of 40 idle and 57+ under load on the 400mhz OC.

I'm only really guessing that temp2 is the NB... Thing is now I have temp3 also doing the same with this board.

I'm starting to regret going with AMD now. I used to have a quad Intel and could OC it to 3.8 / 4ghz no problems at all with anything getting over hot.

I ordered a couple of spot coolers that I'll try out .. but I'm not holding my breath.

I was hoping to OC this setup to 4ghz+ (with better cpu cooling) down the track but it seems that won't be happening.

On the plus side... no Random pc shutdowns or freezes YET! lol.

So my questions...

1: Is anyone else having issues with the NB temps?
2: I would be greatfull if someone has a link or can help me with settings to OC this setup to 4Ghz. I'm sure someone has the same hardware.

Cheers


----------



## Rebelord

What are you using to monitor your NB temps?
Also, how are you overclocking? Raising your multiplier or front side bus(FSB)? Since you have a 1090T you only need to raise your multiplier to overclock. No need to touch your FSB. Yea, its different than your old quad. I am in the same boat. Coming from a C2Duo E8400. Still learning the workings of AMD systems.

However, posting a screen shot of CPUz.(Main, Mem, SPD), CoreTemp would help us help you!

Rebelord


----------



## Benz

Yes I have it too, but my temps haven't raised for even one °C after I overclocked my NB from 2000MHz to 2600MHz @ 1.375v.


----------



## Groosome

Ok here are some images after running Prime95 for 5 - 10 min.

1:









2:


----------



## Groosome

Benz is that the only thing you did to get those temps stable?

is 1.375v correct?

Going to give it a try.

Rebelord that's correct I only increased the multiplier.

I noticed on the ET 6 that temp 3 seems to be the CPU????

Ohh and I didn't use ET6 to OC ... lol just used to to compare temps with SpeedFan


----------



## Benz

Yes this is the only thing I did and my case is open. I believe you can get your NB higher with 1.375v cause you have an X6 with E0 stepping.

Uh your CPU hits 57°C with water cooling? That's a bit strange. Go ahead and download HWMonitor. Watch your core temps.


----------



## Ataliano

Hi there!

I'm an owner of a GA-990FXA-UD3 but as far as I've seen CPU-Z is not detecting the motherboard as well as Aida64 doesn't find it too...

Should be a problem on my motherboard or it's not yet supported by those programs?

Also I'm trying to config the RAM modules in manual mode with the UD3 BIOS, but it ask me for a lot of parameters and I don't really know much of them. I know that CPU-Z shows lots of them, that's why I'm trying to make it run but it doesn't shows information as it don't detects motherboard...


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Groosome*


Ok here are some images after running Prime95 for 5 - 10 min.

1:









2:










Wow, are you kidding me?







57 C for that mild overclock on that CPU is just not right. I'd say that's your problem. Check your TIM and ensure your H60 is plugged into a molex directly to the PSU. Are you using as exhaust or intake? Do you have push/pull on it? For a 24/7 overclock you should not exceed 55 C.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Groosome*


Ok here are some images after running Prime95 for 5 - 10 min.


WOW I'm running a 965BE with an H50 and after hours of prime95 I can't get my temps to go past 48c. Now I know you have 2 more cores and have overclocked further than I have but since I also have a smaller cooler I'd say something is very wrong. I also agree with other post check to make sure your H60 waterblock is seated correctly and that the pump is plugged into power straight from the power supply. Also turn the fans on it up as high as they will go or run them straight to the power supply too.


----------



## Groosome

Hi Garanthor,

One of the first things I did was replace the TIM on SB/NB/MOS I used Arctic Alumina. I have re-checked the seating and TIM on the CPU and all seems good.

tmpIN1 and tempIN2 using CPUID report at 38/39c at idle. Yet my cores say 26c SO I'm not sure what to believe with all these programs.

I would try my Air cooler but I have lost my AMD adapter. I may just throw stock cooler in and see what that does.

1.375v is way in the red for the NB. I have mine at 1.175v I'm not sure if I should push it any higher.

Anyway I suppose some more experimenting is in order... going to be a busy day.


----------



## LBear

2 more cores can generate that much more heat even with that setup. Remember ambient temperature do matter.


----------



## Groosome

I just put in my Noctua NH-C12P SE14 after I found the AMD fittings and it's about the same temps as the H60.

I've tried just about everything and I'm just not impressed with what I'm seeing. Will sell this rig to recoup some of my funds and than rebuild an Intel system.

The only other thing I can really think of is the PSU.... but I don't think that's the issue.

I also think that the temp2 is the NB not the cpu. Even tho ET6 says its the cpu I don't believe it is... I can place my hand on the H60 while running prime95 and its nowhere near the temp of the NB... that NB is just crazy hot.. and it was the same on my 870a Fuzion board that's why I wanted to try the UD3.

I would like to thank those that have tried to help me with this problem. Much thanks.

Cheers


----------



## Rebelord

Also, you are running 4x4G sticks of ram. Thats alot of work for IMC. So it will get warm. But if the NB temp is your point to sell, I wouldnt. However, if you want a higher overclock. Pull 2 sticks of ram, get your NB up to or close to 3000Mhz and see if you push over 4Ghz CPU. I dont see how, HOW your getting such high temps with a H60 or that Noctua cooler. 
I have a 1090T with a 212+. Which is known to not be able to handle the heat of the 6cores at overclocks. I can push 4Ghz, however then I will hit 55*+. I can sit at 3.8Ghz and sit fine at 50* full load.
If your that hot already. You really need to check your seats of you H60 pump on your CPU. If you have already removed you will need to replace the TIM. From what I have read, MX4 or Shin-Etsu is pretty much top honors right now.


----------



## bicen

Figured I would share a couple pictures of my computer, love my UD5.

















[/QUOTE]


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Groosome*


Hi Garanthor,

One of the first things I did was replace the TIM on SB/NB/MOS I used Arctic Alumina. I have re-checked the seating and TIM on the CPU and all seems good.

tmpIN1 and tempIN2 using CPUID report at 38/39c at idle. Yet my cores say 26c SO I'm not sure what to believe with all these programs.

I would try my Air cooler but I have lost my AMD adapter. I may just throw stock cooler in and see what that does.

1.375v is way in the red for the NB. I have mine at 1.175v I'm not sure if I should push it any higher.

Anyway I suppose some more experimenting is in order... going to be a busy day.


Okay have you looked at your temps with HWmonitor because that program breaks down every temp sensor it can find in your system into their respective place. For example it will show your motherboard and your cpu but they are separate from one another so you can tell what temp reading goes with what. On all of my computers TMP1 and TMP2 are under the motherboard and mine idle in the mid 30's C and top out in upper 40's. As for your CPU idling at 26c that's not bad at all mine idles at around 33c !


----------



## BramSLI1

Well, it took me all day but I got it all installed. The UD7 block showed up at about 2:00pm and I got started on it immediately. I've got some pics, but I haven't run benchmarks yet. I'm still leak checking it. I'll get some benchmarks with temperatures up in a day or two. It looks pretty sweet though in my opinion. The original heat sink came off without a problem and installing the water block was pretty straight forward.


----------



## m_jones_

My 1055t @1.15 runs cooler than my x2 550 its idle is around 18c & load while gaming never peaks above 23c mind you I'm running x2 360 rads just for the cpu.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Groosome;15192453*
> Hi Garanthor,
> 1.375v is way in the red for the NB. I have mine at 1.175v I'm not sure if I should push it any higher.


What do you mean in the red? It can't be in the red, cause you and me have the same board and mine is well within accepted parameter.

Just set your CPU NorthBridge Freq to 14x = 2800MHz, bump your voltage 1.350v and see what happens.


----------



## BramSLI1

I have an update on the UD7 water block. Well, I've ran a few benchmarks and HWMonitor is still showing some relatively high temps for the TMPIN2 sensor. To hunt it down I got a laser temp gun and shot different spots on the board and I couldn't find anything that corresponded to that temperature. I'm starting to think that the TMPIN2 is just inaccurate. TMPIN0 is the South Bridge and TMPIN1 is the North Bridge and Mosfets. I'm going to have to do some research and maybe even contact Gigabyte directly to find out what this is. It's starting to look like this water block really isn't necessary unless you plan to do some really extreme overclocking. I hope this is helpful information.


----------



## Benz

Try touching it with your finger and see if it burns.


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold;15195523*
> Okay have you looked at your temps with HWmonitor because that program breaks down every temp sensor it can find in your system into their respective place. For example it will show your motherboard and your cpu but they are separate from one another so you can tell what temp reading goes with what. On all of my computers TMP1 and TMP2 are under the motherboard and mine idle in the mid 30's C and top out in upper 40's. As for your CPU idling at 26c that's not bad at all mine idles at around 33c !


Totally agree. HWmonitor is the best temp monitoring tool. Idle temp is not really important. Look at load temps.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benz;15204789*
> Try touching it with your finger and see if it burns.


I just burn my finger... again.

I can confirm it burns









However... i'm starting to think... what monitoring software tool can we really use in order to measure the right NB temp...


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear;15193398*
> 2 more cores can generate that much more heat even with that setup. Remember ambient temperature do matter.


Actually even the 2 extra cores shouldn't really generate much higher temps vs. a processor with 2 less cores since the 1090t and 1100t are both 125W chips and my 965BE is also a 125W chip. As long as it has a cooler that can handle the heat it should run nice and cool. Also as AMD chips usually run fairly cool all in all they usually don't take a whole lot to keep them at least under their upper threshold.


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;15206585*
> I just burn my finger... again.
> 
> I can confirm it burns
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However... i'm starting to think... what monitoring software tool can we really use in order to measure the right NB temp...


Haha yes we know that the UD3 burns.







I was interested in Bram's UD5.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;15205881*
> Totally agree. HWmonitor is the best temp monitoring tool. Idle temp is not really important. Look at load temps.


I love HWmonitor for many reasons, but one of the main reasons is because of the fact that it will tell you current temps, as well as min and max temps for as long as the program has been running.


----------



## BramSLI1

Benz, I don't have the UD5, I've got the UD7. I have no idea what the TMPIN2 temp sensor is at all. I've touched the heat sink on the south bridge and the water block covering my north bridge and Mosfets. They aren't producing any heat at all and there isn't anything that else that would produce temperatures in the mid to high 50 degree Celsius range.







Does anyone here have any ideas what this could be before I give Gigabyte a call?


----------



## BramSLI1

I have another update on the UD7 TMPIN2 sensor. It appears that that sensor is notorious for false readings and it should probably be ignored. I've looked on line and found a large number of posts from this site and others that agree that the TMPIN2 sensor isn't correct. It would seem that this is a problem with HWMonitor and not Gigabyte or the 990FX boards. Let me know if anyone finds anything different. I'm very interested to see if anyone can find anything else out about this.


----------



## Sin0822

hey do you guys want an OC guide for bulldozer and this board?


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15207725*
> hey do you guys want an OC guide for bulldozer and this board?


Um, Yeah!! Of course.

Rebelord


----------



## omni_vision

this is the best i could do http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2033452

NB is 2.8GHz w/ the CPU/NB @1.4v


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15207725*
> hey do you guys want an OC guide for bulldozer and this board?


Yes!


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15207725*
> hey do you guys want an OC guide for bulldozer and this board?


Yes. Can we get a BD chip to go with it? You know, like an early readers' bonus?


----------



## LBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15207336*
> I have another update on the UD7 TMPIN2 sensor. It appears that that sensor is notorious for false readings and it should probably be ignored. I've looked on line and found a large number of posts from this site and others that agree that the TMPIN2 sensor isn't correct. It would seem that this is a problem with HWMonitor and not Gigabyte or the 990FX boards. Let me know if anyone finds anything different. I'm very interested to see if anyone can find anything else out about this.


Congrats on the research, thats good info. Repped

BTW there was an update recently for the AMD AHCI driver if anyone interested

http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx


----------



## BramSLI1

Thanks for the info LBear. I'll check out the driver when I have a chance. Still running a few benchmarks and looking for temperature differences. I'll keep everyone posted if I find anything else out about the TMPIN2 sensor issue.


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15207725*
> hey do you guys want an OC guide for bulldozer and this board?


Yes!


----------



## Benz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15207025*
> Benz, I don't have the UD5, I've got the UD7. I have no idea what the TMPIN2 temp sensor is at all. I've touched the heat sink on the south bridge and the water block covering my north bridge and Mosfets. They aren't producing any heat at all and there isn't anything that else that would produce temperatures in the mid to high 50 degree Celsius range.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone here have any ideas what this could be before I give Gigabyte a call?


Sorry mistyped I meant to say UD7.


----------



## Rebelord

BTW guys. I went from 11.8 to 11.9 drivers. Much better, in the fact that my SSD seams snappier. Plus my ATTO benches went up. I actually am exceeding rated speeds for my SSD now. OCZ Vertex 2 120G Sata II version, 64nand. Now..just look at the pic.


----------



## MadGoat

Was my birthday the other day... Look what I got!



























Gettin' its thermo creamy on...



















Oh, and Mr. 285 found a mistress


----------



## kzone75

lol Nice! Happy yesterbirthday.


----------



## LBear

Bios released today for the UD7 F6E

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3880#bios


----------



## kzone75

And F5A for the UD3 http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894&dl=1#bios


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15213852*
> Was my birthday the other day... Look what I got!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> /snip


How much have you OC'd it? Did you reach 6Ghz?


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear;15214831*
> Bios released today for the UD7 F6E
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3880#bios


Did it help with the Vdroop at all?


----------



## robbo2

I have not tried the bios update but something interesting I did find was the vdrop was a little less using the reference clock rather then just all multi. I know if I use the stock multi for a 965 the voltage doesn't move at all. Might try and see how high I can go on the base clock before vdrop starts getting annoying.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Update AGESA 1.1.0.0 code


Looks like a Proc release is around the corner no?


----------



## SSJVegeta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15215533*
> Looks like a Proc release is around the corner no?


Yep, looks like it


----------



## 16ReasonsWhy

I am counting the days until I get my dozer and UD7.


----------



## kzone75

uh-oh The new BIOS was a no-go for me.. It gets stuck at loading operating system. Trying to flash back to the earlier BIOS but that doesn't work either. It cannot find my thumb drive..







Not sure on what to do..


----------



## Sin0822

you need to use your thumb drive, or see if your SSD/HDD was changed from AHCI to IDE or reverse.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15216206*
> you need to use your thumb drive, or see if your SSD/HDD was changed from AHCI to IDE or reverse.


Having a facepalm-moment right now.







The thumb drive was in NTFS. Had to be in FAT32. Rolled back to F4 now. Now, why did flashing to F5A fail that way? Or is it a BIOS you need right before putting your BD in, and won't work correctly with Phenoms?


----------



## Regamaster

I'm also having the same "Loading operating system..." hang with the new F5a bios on my GA-990FXA-UD3. Had to go back to F4, now everythings back to normal. This bios update is bull%$#&!


----------



## Rebelord

Just put in F6e on my UD7. No problems so far.


----------



## Garanthor

I just upgraded to the F6D BIOS and things are running great.







No issues here for the UD5.


----------



## Demot321

I can't get my new build to boot. It powers on but I cant get to bios. Keyboard and mouse are not getting any power.

I thought it would be a simple plug and play. I'm thinking the the memory might not be compatable.

Here are my parts

GA-990XA-UD3

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tent-_-text-_-

AMD Phenom II X6 1090T Black Edition Thuban 3.2GHz 6 x 512KB

Msi 460


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Can anyone test vdroop with the new Bios?


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slappy Mcgee;15217566*
> Can anyone test vdroop with the new Bios?


Still there for me so far.


----------



## MadGoat

g510 keyboard not seen by bios...

bummer... have to use old school keyboard to access bios...


----------



## Benz

We're not the only ones with this issue.









http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,6998.0.html


----------



## ikem

upgraded to F6a (latest)

vdroop. kinda gone?

Bios: 1.550v
Idle: 1.584v
Load: 1.536v

c1e disabled
C&Q disabled
just stock multi and fsb, (testing vdroop)

just posting because this is ALOT better then i have ever had

i also tested 1.45v and got 1.502v idle and 1.44v load.

my vid is 1.302v


----------



## Slappy Mcgee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;15217734*
> Still there for me so far.


Thank you for checking









I really hope it is different with BD chip installed. I really want to get the UD5 but I might go Asus if this vdroop isnt resolved on the Gigabyte boards.


----------



## mystikalrush

I sent Gigabyte a email about the hang issue for UD3 owners, hopefully they can fix it soon.


----------



## mystikalrush

I hope they dont use this as a crutch for us UD3 owners, but this is what i got in responce for our bios update issue.
Quote:


> "Thanks for your feedback, will looking into it.
> We believe updated F5A bios first then install OS will avoid this kind issue occur."


I really rather not have to format just to fix this.


----------



## kzone75

Well that won't work.. When you set it to boot from the dvd drive or thumb drive, it will still stop at loading operating system.. Was about to do a system repair right after I flashed to the new BIOS..


----------



## Willhemmens

According to the notes, all the new BIOS' do is update the AGESA codes for Bulldozer.

Anyone thinking a BIOS update will fix Phenom II Vdroop, I'm sorry to say it's very unlikely to happen.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


According to the notes, all the new BIOS' do is update the AGESA codes for Bulldozer.

Anyone thinking a BIOS update will fix Phenom II Vdroop, I'm sorry to say it's very unlikely to happen.


As far as I'm aware of a new revision of the UD7 is available in some countries.
Saw it in a pretty big forum (won't say the name, since it could be considered as advertising, all I can say is that they're 1 place behind overclock.net in the [email protected] team ranking) and I'm pretty sure its legit.


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *itsgucci*


As far as I'm aware of a new revision of the UD7 is available in some countries.
Saw it in a pretty big forum (won't say the name, since it could be considered as advertising, all I can say is that they're 1 place behind overclock.net in the [email protected] team ranking) and I'm pretty sure its legit.


I see. I've not seen any official things or anything saying the new revised boards don't still have the Vdroop. You're welcome to post links to other forums or say their names, that's fine. Overclockers.com I'm guessing? If so, links would be nice!


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


I see. I've not seen any official things or anything saying the new revised boards don't still have the Vdroop. You're welcome to post links to other forums or say their names, that's fine. Overclockers.com I'm guessing? If so, links would be nice!


Yeah, overclockers.com.
Here is the link to hokiealumnus's post: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...postcount=1424


----------



## turok14373

hey guys, didn't mean to off-topic your vdroop issue but i was just wondering if anyone else's ud3 northbridge heatsink get crazy hot. If i try to touch it it burns my finger something fierce. I just got mine and was wondering if this was normal. 'system' temp in easy tune is ~34c. is that the temp of the northbridge? i don't see any other temps. any insight would be great. thanks

edit:
oh yeah i forgot...... this is without having anything running (benchmark, etc) everything is stock voltage wise. no overclock or nothing. case has decent airflow. my cpu phenom x2 555 idles at 29, load at ~42


----------



## Cosanostra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turok14373;15227494*
> hey guys, didn't mean to off-topic your vdroop issue but i was just wondering if anyone else's ud3 northbridge heatsink get crazy hot. If i try to touch it it burns my finger something fierce. I just got mine and was wondering if this was normal. 'system' temp in easy tune is ~34c. is that the temp of the northbridge? i don't see any other temps. any insight would be great. thanks
> 
> edit:
> oh yeah i forgot...... this is without having anything running (benchmark, etc) everything is stock voltage wise. no overclock or nothing. case has decent airflow. my cpu phenom x2 555 idles at 29, load at ~42


Yep, this has been discussed in earlier posts. Mine was so hot it caused my tuner card to stop working until moved to a lower slot. XD_1771 mentioned "On most Gigabyte boards, TMPIN0 is the northbridge/chipset temp and TMPIN2 is the VRM temp." Do a Google search for 990FXA-UD3 NorthBridge Hot.


----------



## atruepretense

I just updated to F9A, and now I'm getting the damn "Loading Operating System" problem.









I'm reverting it to F8, and hoping that it will fix the issue, if not, I'll go back even further. I flashed my BIOS because it was at F3, which was pretty long ago.

Gigabyte really needs to fix this issue. I think we should all go on Newegg, and leave a review complaining about this issue, the Gigabyte support groups frequent them, and may just go ahead and get something done about it.


----------



## kzone75

I think it's because the new BIOS only works for Bulldozer.


----------



## Benz

Yes kzone75 you're probably right. I saw someone saying the exact same thing on the Gigabyte forums.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Benz*


Yes kzone75 you're probably right. I saw someone saying the exact same thing on the Gigabyte forums.


Pretty dumb move from Gigabyte's side if he is right.
A BIOS that will totally kill all backwards compatibility, that's just fantastic....


----------



## atruepretense

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


I think it's because the new BIOS only works for Bulldozer.


Well...That's helpful.









Why the hell would they do that? Jeez, sometimes I wonder what the hell these companies are thinking...

It's as simple as putting this next to the download link:
*WARNING: Only compatible with Bulldozer processors. Other processors, do not flash.*


----------



## itsgucci

Solution if Q-Flash isn't working for you (saying its an unrecognized BIOS version or w.e) - 
"You can force the Backup BIOS to kick in by shutting down the PSU from the wall, then hold down your case power button in and then turn on the power supply button, a few seconds later the board will start, shut off the power supply then. Then you can turn on the power supply again and power up the board normally and DualBIOS will kick in."


----------



## el gappo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *atruepretense*


Well...That's helpful.









Why the hell would they do that? Jeez, sometimes I wonder what the hell these companies are thinking...

It's as simple as putting this next to the download link:
*WARNING: Only compatible with Bulldozer processors. Other processors, do not flash.*











The most annoying thing is certain boards not booting with Bulldozer on the stock bios, some users are a feared of bios flashing etc so it's not good, probably cause many unwanted rma's if they don't have an am3 cpu.

It's the reason behind Biostar waiting for the final stepping before releasing the board, others would of done well to do the same considering the boards ended up being poorly optimized for deneb/thuban anyways.

/rant.


----------



## Starbomba

I'm thinking to buy either the UD3 or UD5 (leaning towards the UD5 for tri-SLI), but i want to know if it has core unlocking features as i have not heard about them from 9xx's chipsets.

What i want is a mobo for my BD rig, and to find and bin Phenoms to unlock and OC.

Also, is there any side-by-side comparison with the Crosshair V and the Sabertooth 990FX? Those are other mobos i'm looking at.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Starbomba*


I'm thinking to buy either the UD3 or UD5 (leaning towards the UD5 for tri-SLI), but i want to know if it has core unlocking features as i have not heard about them from 9xx's chipsets.

What i want is a mobo for my BD rig, and to find and bin Phenoms to unlock and OC.

Also, is there any side-by-side comparison with the Crosshair V and the Sabertooth 990FX? Those are other mobos i'm looking at.


My D3's manual shows the BIOS having the "Core unlock" option so yeah, should persist in UD3/UD5 too.
I'm still waiting for the Bulldozer to release so I can't power up my build right now and tell you if that option is 100% available in the BIOS, but it should be, since its in the manual.
All I know about the Crosshair V is that it has an awful DOA rate, at least over Newegg and Plesio.
1/2 of the people who got it either got it DOA or had to RMA it after 1h of usage.


----------



## el gappo

They had a bad batch









Not all like that, obviously. I love my CHV, probably one of the best boards I've had.


----------



## gabead

Hey all! I am an official member now! Glad to be here and to learn from each other or just BSing!


----------



## vinton13

If I plug the HDD and SSD into the grey SATA ports instead of the black, would there be any difference?

EDIT: I'm using the UD7...well I'm getting it soon.


----------



## bicen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


If I plug the HDD and SSD into the grey SATA ports instead of the black, would there be any difference?

EDIT: I'm using the UD7...well I'm getting it soon.










If your hdd supports the 6mb/s then yes there will be an improvement on the grey ports. Also, if you want to set your hard drives to AHCI and your other devices to IDE, there are options in bios for each set so that devices don't interfere with each other.


----------



## drufause

Found a review about the GA-990FXA-UD7 that explains a lot about the VRM's on the UD7 and how vdrop happens and what it affects as well as workarounds.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...p-Mod-Testing)


----------



## tw33k

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


If I plug the HDD and SSD into the grey SATA ports instead of the black, would there be any difference?

EDIT: I'm using the UD7...well I'm getting it soon.










The grey ports are the Marvell ports. They do not support TRIM and are slower than the AMD SATA ports.


----------



## bicen

I just installed the F6D bios for my UD5 and I must say, there has been much improvement as far as vdroop and vrise. with F5 bios I would have to set my CPU voltage to 1.475 at 4ghz with a droop to 1.41 and rise to 1.5, barely keeping at the 1.41 volts my 1100T needs to stay stable. When I went to overclock to 4.1 Ghz I would need to set my voltage to 1.55 to stay above the 1.46 I needed to stay stable, with a vrise to 1.6. This was just too hot and too much of a difference to be stable. My computer would crash after about 2 hours in AIDA64.

Now, with F6D I am stable at 4Ghz with 1.45 volts, dropping to only 1.42 (still above the 1.41 I need) and rise to 1.47, which is still very safe. With 4.1 Ghz I am able to get stable at 1.525 with a vdroop to 1.46 and rise to 1.55. My 1100T needs the 1.46 to stay stable which is perfect and the 1.55 is still within the safe limits for my chip.

If Gigabyte can tighten up the droop/rise just a little bit more, this will be a great mobo. I have been very happy with the speed that Gigabyte has been rolling out the updates for these new boards. I am sure that eventually there will be a completely stable patch, if I don't already own a bulldozer by then.


----------



## 16ReasonsWhy

Does anyone know if there is a water block that might fit on the UD7 SB? I know EK includes a passive with their kit. I could have sworn that someone (willhemmens?) mentioned something about it but I can't find it anymore in this thread...i could be crazy too.


----------



## Starbomba

Thanks el gappo (too bad you're a mod) and itsgucci for the answers, repped.

Got a couple more questions tho: i am aware of the VRM cooling importance, but is the heatsink of the UD3 VRM's good enough for 125-140w CPUs? The UD5 has a beefier heatsink, and a heatpipe, while the UD3 is a smaller heatsink and no heatpipe. I even think my EVGA P55 mobo VRM heatsink is bigger.

Also, are the UD3 and UD5 similar in OCing performance? I just want a cheap 4+core BOINC rig, my current rig games fine and my true update would be either Haswell CPUs, Ivy if they tend to be more awesome than SB, or BD-E.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;15237347*
> Thanks el gappo (too bad you're a mod) and itsgucci for the answers, repped.
> 
> Got a couple more questions tho: i am aware of the VRM cooling importance, but is the heatsink of the UD3 VRM's good enough for 125-140w CPUs? The UD5 has a beefier heatsink, and a heatpipe, while the UD3 is a smaller heatsink and no heatpipe. I even think my EVGA P55 mobo VRM heatsink is bigger.
> 
> Also, are the UD3 and UD5 similar in OCing performance? I just want a cheap 4+core BOINC rig, my current rig games fine and my true update would be either Haswell CPUs, Ivy if they tend to be more awesome than SB, or BD-E.


The heatsink on the UD3 should be good enough to get the job done.
I myself tho own a D3 so I'll have to buy from those tiny crappy heatsinks that aren't even a whole chunk of metal and make some kind of a ghetto VRM cooling.
UD3 and UD5 should indeed be similar as far as overclocking goes, since I don't see that much of a difference in the two boards in general.
UD5/UD7 seem to have some bad vdroop issues, but I think the UD3 isn't affected (or is it?).
The vdroop only occurs (in a big scale) on the Phenom X6's tho, dual/quad core CPUs don't seem that affected by it.
So yeah anyways the UD3 is a decent motherboard, go for it!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Hello guys! I just bought a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 from microcenter. After I got it home I was looking at the box and noticed that it is the 1.0 revision. I wanted to ask you guys if I should take it back and see if they have the 1.2r? The reason I ask is that I'm a bit freaked out about some of the bad reviews the board is getting. The UD3 is going in my sig rig with a change of ram coming in the next week. I picked out this G.Skill ram for it. I have not installed the board yet do to my OS being an OEM version. I also have plans of using thisCrucial SSD and Crossfire 6970's after I pick up a new PSU. all these goodies will be topped off with a custom water loop involving 2x240 and a 120 rad. The pump and fans will be PWM with an Aquareo 5 as the brain behind the Water loop. What do you guys think? Ohh yea.... my 955 will also be being replaced with a BD as soon as I see some bench's after its release The main reason for this post is to get some helpfull advice about the board. What BIOS should I use? and should I take this board back in favor of the 1.2r? To say the least I am paranoid about the board acting up lol. Thank for reading!!

PS: There will be a full build log in the next 2 weeks or so


----------



## bicen

I noticed on the spreadsheet most people were split between ram voltages of 1.5v and 1.65v whether they were overclocked or not. I ran mine at 1.65v since I received it because that is what the directions say it is rated at on an AM3 board. However, in the mobo guide it says that the board is suppose to run DDR3 dual-channel at 1.5v. So I lowered my voltage down to 1.5v and ever since then I have had no issues with crashing. Even the HyperX Genesis website states to run this memory between 1.7 and 1.9v on an AM3 board, which just seems crazy seeing that the bios colors go into caution when raised about 1.695v. Anyone else notice this? Maybe I am missing something.


----------



## th365thli

Hey guys.

I've successfully clocked my 955 c3 to 3.8 ghz (200x19, nb=2400, 1.4v). I ran prime95 for >12 hours, did the necessary monitoring of temps etc. However, when I try to go to 4.0, the computer crashes and I need to up the voltage. Now that wouldn't be such a huge problem except for the fact that my 990fxa-ud3 doesn't want me to change the voltage.

What does that mean? I would go to the bios, go to MIB Intelligent Tweaker or something like that, go to the voltage settings, set everything to manual. I would then go down to CPU VID and try to up that by the smallest increment (.125 i believe). After saving to the CMOS and exiting, all my monitors (Core temp, amd overdrive) show that my voltage has not changed at all. Upon restarting, I realize that the bios says it hasn't changed either. After multiple tries i gave up.

What's going on? Do i have a faulty board? Granted, I don't think my CPU can go up to 4.0 cuz of temps (load max at 55, but hangs around 49 mostly in prime), but i would still like to know what's going on. Thanks.


----------



## bicen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15239965*
> Hello guys! I just bought a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 from microcenter. After I got it home I was looking at the box and noticed that it is the 1.0 revision. I wanted to ask you guys if I should take it back and see if they have the 1.2r? The reason I ask is that I'm a bit freaked out about some of the bad reviews the board is getting. The UD3 is going in my sig rig with a change of ram coming in the next week. I picked out this G.Skill ram for it. I have not installed the board yet do to my OS being an OEM version. I also have plans of using thisCrucial SSD and Crossfire 6970's after I pick up a new PSU. all these goodies will be topped off with a custom water loop involving 2x240 and a 120 rad. The pump and fans will be PWM with an Aquareo 5 as the brain behind the Water loop. What do you guys think? Ohh yea.... my 955 will also be being replaced with a BD as soon as I see some bench's after its release The main reason for this post is to get some helpfull advice about the board. What BIOS should I use? and should I take this board back in favor of the 1.2r? To say the least I am paranoid about the board acting up lol. Thank for reading!!
> 
> PS: There will be a full build log in the next 2 weeks or so


I would take it back, never good to buy an old revision when you have a new one out. They released the revision because there were problems with the original release.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *th365thli;15241294*
> Hey guys.
> 
> I've successfully clocked my 955 c3 to 3.8 ghz (200x19, nb=2400, 1.4v). I ran prime95 for >12 hours, did the necessary monitoring of temps etc. However, when I try to go to 4.0, the computer crashes and I need to up the voltage. Now that wouldn't be such a huge problem except for the fact that my 990fxa-ud3 doesn't want me to change the voltage.
> 
> What does that mean? I would go to the bios, go to MIB Intelligent Tweaker or something like that, go to the voltage settings, set everything to manual. I would then go down to CPU VID and try to up that by the smallest increment (.125 i believe). After saving to the CMOS and exiting, all my monitors (Core temp, amd overdrive) show that my voltage has not changed at all. Upon restarting, I realize that the bios says it hasn't changed either. After multiple tries i gave up.
> 
> What's going on? Do i have a faulty board? Granted, I don't think my CPU can go up to 4.0 cuz of temps (load max at 55, but hangs around 49 mostly in prime), but i would still like to know what's going on. Thanks.


Have ever achieved 4GHZ with that chip in a different board? It could simply be that your specific chip is not capable of 4GHZ.

Although the voltage issue you described is strange. What BIOS version are you using? You could perhaps try updating to a slightly newer one (perhaps not the newest one as that is the one that adds the better support for BD I think??) I did notice that in one BIOS version my OC was stable and would boot no worries but in another it wasn't and would restart immediately.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicen;15241442*
> I would take it back, never good to buy an old revision when you have a new one out. They released the revision because there were problems with the original release.


Yes, that is true, however if they only changed something silly I wouldn't worry about it. The thing is I cant find out what they changed, lol. I might take it back soon. Thank you.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *16ReasonsWhy;15236650*
> Does anyone know if there is a water block that might fit on the UD7 SB? I know EK includes a passive with their kit. I could have sworn that someone (willhemmens?) mentioned something about it but I can't find it anymore in this thread...i could be crazy too.


The SB on the UD7 really doesn't need to be water cooled. It runs fairly cool as it is. From my experience with EK's NB and Mosfet water block, it's overkill as well. Unless you are pushing some serious voltages and overclocks their blocks for the UD7 are unnecessary. I can say that because I have them and I've been using them for a week or so now.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Found out what Gigabyte changed for the 1.2 revision here. I think i will be safe with the 1.0 revision. I don't use any of the feature's they changed


----------



## Rebelord

I already want to sell my UD7 and 1090t. =(


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;15243407*
> I already want to sell my UD7 and 1090t. =(


Why?


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15243694*
> Why?


The board itself if nice. However, very disappointed with the CPU.
My VMs run faster on my laptop than this 1090t.
Laptop has a i7-720QM chip.

Rebelord


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15242745*
> Yes, that is true, however if they only changed something silly I wouldn't worry about it. The thing is I cant find out what they changed, lol. I might take it back soon. Thank you.


Wrong.
The only thing that has been changed is the BIOS they ship it with as far as I'm aware of.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsgucci;15247627*
> Wrong.
> The only thing that has been changed is the BIOS they ship it with as far as I'm aware of.


Wrong.
Here you can see what they changed. mobo makers do not change revision just because the BIOS version is changed. they changed the board. but they changes they made are of no use to me. you can also change the bios yourself.


----------



## Starbomba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsgucci;15239133*
> UD5/UD7 seem to have some bad vdroop issues, but I think the UD3 isn't affected (or is it?).
> The vdroop only occurs (in a big scale) on the Phenom X6's tho, dual/quad core CPUs don't seem that affected by it.
> So yeah anyways the UD3 is a decent motherboard, go for it!


So if i were to use an octo-core BD would i see some severe vdroop? And don't they use any form of LLC?


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15248097*
> Wrong.
> Here you can see what they changed. mobo makers do not change revision just because the BIOS version is changed. they changed the board. but they changes they made are of no use to me. you can also change the bios yourself.


Not so wrong actually..
"Compared to the 1.0, which would be the first release, the 1.2 sees itself benefitting the AMD FX processor supported right out of the box. "
E.g - ships with the newest BIOS.
The other changes don't seem of any matter to me so yeah, the only notable thing is the BIOS its being shipped with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Starbomba;15250639*
> So if i were to use an octo-core BD would i see some severe vdroop? And don't they use any form of LLC?


Can't tell about the vdroop with a BD, we'll see when they become available for everyone.
There is a mod you can do, that will disable vdroop, had something to do with removing a small *** resistor and soldering a different one (100ohm, I believe).
I can find you the link if you're interested.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsgucci;15251578*
> *Not so wrong actually..
> "Compared to the 1.0, which would be the first release, the 1.2 sees itself benefitting the AMD FX processor supported right out of the box. "
> E.g - ships with the newest BIOS.
> The other changes don't seem of any matter to me so yeah, the only notable thing is the BIOS its being shipped with.*
> 
> Can't tell about the vdroop with a BD, we'll see when they become available for everyone.
> There is a mod you can do, that will disable vdroop, had something to do with removing a small *** resistor and soldering a different one (100ohm, I believe).
> I can find you the link if you're interested.


Wrong again my friend. The box my board came in has a nice red sticker on it reading "New AM3+ CPU BIOS installed". shocked at the lack of informed info on the club thread...


----------



## Sin0822

well hey guys i got my system up and runing with BD, ill let you see a pick of the system, not any shots of the CPuz or any benches, as i do like to abide to NDA.










BTW OCing BD with this board is very smoothe, and very hassle-free, if the OC is too high, it will auto reset, and it just works perfectly.

I will try and do some LN2 OCing as wellf or my guide tomorrow.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15252609*
> well hey guys i got my system up and runing with BD, ill let you see a pick of the system, not any shots of the CPuz or any benches, as i do like to abide to NDA.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW OCing BD with this board is very smoothe, and very hassle-free, if the OC is too high, it will auto reset, and it just works perfectly.
> 
> I will try and do some LN2 OCing as wellf or my guide tomorrow.


Very nice! Is that the liquid cooler from AMD?


----------



## Sin0822

it is the same one AMD will be bundling the antec 920. I didn't get that bundle tho


----------



## el gappo

I abide by NDA, here is a cooler that doesn't exist.


----------



## kzone75

Looking forward to your guide and benches.







Not sure if I should ask, but is BD anything like you expected?


----------



## qwertymanhurts

Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7, is undoubtedly most advanced, current, consumer motherboard, so Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 FTW!!!


----------



## redhat_ownage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwertymanhurts;15253353*
> Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7, is undoubtedly most advanced, current, consumer motherboard, so Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 FTW!!!


i was almost positive the chv was the better board :/ i guess i need to cancel my newegg order


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;15252827*
> I abide by NDA, here is a cooler that doesn't exist.


its an antec kuhler 920, it exists at newegg. its not a retail package and it didn't come with the CPU.
I don't have a retail CPU, but I compared my results against those that have been posted on retail samples, and they are about the same. I have a newer ES sample, better performing than the older ones, i am guessing equal to the retail in performance or close. i found a few things that caused an increase in results in certain benchmarks, like using more FSB instead of a higher multiplier,and it helped greatly in a few benchmarks. of course that isn't how the processor was shipped.

This processor has some quirks, but it does OC nice, well nicer than previous gen AMD products. I think the fun part is subzero cooling, which should be fun for el gappo here.

So i am just going to do a guide, not a BD review, i don't have the final part, and i am sure there will be thousands of reviews on the same thing, ima do something different.


----------



## mystikalrush

Anyone still unable to flash the new F5A bios for the UD3? or possibly have, if so what method did you use?


----------



## omni_vision

i got the UD3 and planing to get Asus Xonar_DG 5.1 sound card and some nice headphones/speakers
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132020
will i hear an improvement with the sound card or the onboard ones fine?


----------



## Rebelord

Sin: Man, that bench is SMEXY!


----------



## Molitor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;15254905*
> Anyone still unable to flash the new F5A bios for the UD3? or possibly have, if so what method did you use?


I put it on a USB flash drive and used the Qflash thing from the BIOS screen. Seemed to flash fine, but it wouldn't get past the Loading Operating System screen. I checked my boot drive and put everything to default and reset the CMOS and nothing worked. So I went back to F4 and I was back in business.

Fortunately, I had F4 on the same flash drive I had F5a on, so it wasn't a big deal. I strongly suggest you do keep F4 handy, as you might not be able to boot your computer until you flash back.

I actually wouldn't suggest updating the BIOS until you're ready to slap a BD in there, unless there's a specific reason.


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molitor;15255140*
> I put it on a USB flash drive and used the Qflash thing from the BIOS screen. Seemed to flash fine, but it wouldn't get past the Loading Operating System screen. I checked my boot drive and put everything to default and reset the CMOS and nothing worked. So I went back to F4 and I was back in business.
> 
> Fortunately, I had F4 on the same flash drive I had F5a on, so it wasn't a big deal. I strongly suggest you do keep F4 handy, as you might not be able to boot your computer until you flash back.
> 
> I actually wouldn't suggest updating the BIOS until you're ready to slap a BD in there, unless there's a specific reason.


Thats my worry, i am getting a AMD FX, but what Gigabyte is telling me is you basically need to reformat to load those BIOs, i dont want to have a BD in my UD3 and i cant even bootup from it.


----------



## Sin0822

well i would flash right before you put in the BD
flash go into the BIOS, and load optimized defaults
restart, then shutdown
unplug the PSU and put in BD and boot up


----------



## mystikalrush

Yeah i guess that will be my only option.

Just had a thought i wonder if flashing via @bios the in windows program would do any justice?


----------



## pkmnfreak125

I also plan on going to Bulldozer I received my gigabyte GA-990fxa-UD3 as a birthday gift in August.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;15255439*
> Yeah i guess that will be my only option.
> 
> Just had a thought i wonder if flashing via @bios the in windows program would do any justice?


Eeeh..flashing from Windows. Never a good idea.
I havent had any issues flashing bioses using a thumb drive. Just make sure its formated in FAT, not ntfs, and nothing else on the drive. Just the Bios file.


----------



## Molitor

I don't understand the reformat suggestion I read earlier. If you install F5a and it won't let you boot, you can't format, or reformat, or install, or anything else past the Loading OS screen. If you *can* reboot, why would you need to reformat?

Is this a suggestion that you reformat when you go from PII to BD, or when you go from F4 to F5a? If F5a only works with BD, it would have been nice if they mentioned that somewhere.


----------



## Rebelord

F6e is working with my 1090t fine. /shrug


----------



## mystikalrush

Okay so a bit of news i got here from a Gigabyte rep responce.
Quote:


> With F5A bios, 990FXA-UD3 could works with AMD FX or Penom II x6 processors.


So this is leading me to believe it is a CPU issue, as i have an Phenom II x4 955. Can anyone confirm using an x6 with F5A bios for UD3 boot up fine? and/or x4 users using UD5/7 with latest bios (AGESA 1.1.0.0 code) also get the "Loading Operating System" hang?


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;15256053*
> So this is leading me to believe it is a CPU issue, as i have an Phenom II x4 955. Can anyone confirm using an x6 with F5A bios for UD3 boot up fine? and/or x4 users using UD5/7 with latest bios (AGESA 1.1.0.0 code) also get the "Loading Operating System" hang?


I am using F6e with my UD7, however, yes I have a 1090t.


----------



## d2VzCg==

F5A fails to boot for me, and despite what any Gigabyte rep says, this is on a UD3 with a Phenom II X6 1100T, hard drive controller in AHCI mode. Reverting to F4 with all same settings makes it work again. It would be nice if Gigabyte would test the BIOS releases before publishing them.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omni_vision;15255112*
> i got the UD3 and planing to get Asus Xonar_DG 5.1 sound card and some nice headphones/speakers
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16829132020
> will i hear an improvement with the sound card or the onboard ones fine?


Any Asus soundcard will be better than integrated chip. However.. try to get the Xonar DX instead of that DG... you will be happier!


----------



## Benz

I agree with GaToMaLaCo here, Asus sound cards are even better than Creative X-Fi.


----------



## m_jones_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d2VzCg==;15258383*
> F5A fails to boot for me, and despite what any Gigabyte rep says, this is on a UD3 with a Phenom II X6 1100T, hard drive controller in AHCI mode. Reverting to F4 with all same settings makes it work again. It would be nice if Gigabyte would test the BIOS releases before publishing them.


Make sure you're downloading the correct motherboard revision bios.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*


Wrong again my friend. The box my board came in has a nice red sticker on it reading "New AM3+ CPU BIOS installed". shocked at the lack of informed info on the club thread...


You do realize that you just confirmed what I said, right?


----------



## Sin0822

Here is teh deal guys, if you don't have the BIOS F5 or later, you need to have it to run BD. I was told to tell you guys YOU HAVE TO UPDATE your BIOS to F5 to use BD. At least on the UD5 or UD7.

BTW i can report that BD OCes very nicley, for a teaser: [email protected] stable or [email protected] stable

I am finishing up some max OC/voltage scaling now for my OC guide, it should be up shortly, but not today./


----------



## Sin0822

someone answer me this quick, what does core unlock do? what if you already have an 8-core BD, will core unlock do anything? The option is available BTW.


----------



## JE Nightmare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15266326*
> someone answer me this quick, what does core unlock do? what if you already have an 8-core BD, will core unlock do anything? The option is available BTW.


core unlock only works on chips that have unlockable cores.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsgucci;15263714*
> You do realize that you just confirmed what I said, right?


I have a revision 1.0... that would mean you are wrong, or making assumptions.


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JE Nightmare;15266336*
> core unlock only works on chips that have unlockable cores.


that is what i thought, anyways the option is available in the BIOS with bulldozer, i can confirm it. At least it is with my 8120 and UD7


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15266045*
> Here is teh deal guys, if you don't have the BIOS F5 or later, you need to have it to run BD. I was told to tell you guys YOU HAVE TO UPDATE your BIOS to F5 to use BD. At least on the UD5 or UD7.
> 
> BTW i can report that BD OCes very nicley, for a teaser: [email protected] stable or [email protected] stable
> 
> I am finishing up some max OC/voltage scaling now for my OC guide, it should be up shortly, but not today./


...this is great...! i cant updated to F5A with my UD3 because it causes the motherboard to not load the OS and stays stuck at "Loading Operating System"...!!! this is so dumb, i get an AM3+ board and it cant even use it what a waste of money... i need this fixed now as i am getting a fx on day one...


----------



## Mikecdm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15266326*
> someone answer me this quick, what does core unlock do? what if you already have an 8-core BD, will core unlock do anything? The option is available BTW.


Wasn't that material including in the gigabyte marketing notes


----------



## Parlan

Hi! For the UD5 motherboard there is a new firmware F6D. Decides whether it is a problem with unlocking frozen cores?


----------



## Sin0822

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mikecdm;15267274*
> Wasn't that material including in the gigabyte marketing notes


no GIGABTYE Marketing notes







seriously i didn't get them lol. but i doubt its a feature many will utilize with BD. I don't see anyone unlocking a 3 module to a 4 module.


----------



## ikem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;15267187*
> ...this is great...! i cant updated to F5A with my UD3 because it causes the motherboard to not load the OS and stays stuck at "Loading Operating System"...!!! this is so dumb, i get an AM3+ board and it cant even use it what a waste of money... i need this fixed now as i am getting a fx on day one...


make sure your hdd with the os is the first priority


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ikem;15268642*
> make sure your hdd with the os is the first priority


It is, other wise board would state no operating system found, or something along those lines. Im using a raid 0 config, not sure if that could be the problem, but i know others on here have reported the same issues with F5a on UD3.


----------



## otakunorth

been away from this thread for a long time. but just upgraded from f3 to f6d and my computer is no longer stable at or near 4ghz , really unhappy with the update.


----------



## Sin0822

that BIOS is meant for BD.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15266390*
> I have a revision 1.0... that would mean you are wrong, or making assumptions.


Nah.. The only thing it means is, that you're talking about your motherboard supporting a CPU that isn't out yet.
As AMD said - you will probably need an update (if your motherboard shipped with an older BIOS version, that is).
No idea how things at your region are, but yeah - 1st shipment of those motherboards won't run a Bulldozer(out of the box without a BIOS update).


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsgucci;15269709*
> Nah.. The only thing it means is, that you're talking about your motherboard supporting a CPU that isn't out yet.
> As AMD said - you will probably need an update (if your motherboard shipped with an older BIOS version, that is).
> No idea how things at your region are, but yeah - 1st shipment of those motherboards won't run a Bulldozer(out of the box without a BIOS update).


Your not understanding what I am saying. I'll post a pic.

EDIT: they are from my phone, its old so quality kinda sucks, but here maybe this will help you understand.
Here is the GigaByte 990FXA-UD3 mobo box.









Here is a close up of the red sticker on the box.









Here is the sticker on the side of the box indicating what revision the mobo in the box is. I can also post a pic of where it states the revision on the mobo itself.
















understand now?


----------



## otakunorth

dosent make sense for bios performance to get worse, what ver is recommended for overclocking?


----------



## omni_vision

anyone feel like they got ripped off?


----------



## romorieni




----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *omni_vision*


anyone feel like they got ripped off?


No, not really. I expect to have a lot of fun with Bulldozer as soon as it hits the shelves here. But it would be nice to see how the 4 and 6 cores do compared to the 8 core. And this motherboard is awesome. Won't change it until this socket is a goner. Or if I blow something up..


----------



## Willhemmens

So I have a 1090T that does this in Cinebench:








I could quite easily get higher too.
What would be the point upgrading to Bulldozer? Apart from the simple fun of testing a new product.

For reference a 4.818GHz BD scores just 7.95.


----------



## omni_vision

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


No, not really. I expect to have a lot of fun with Bulldozer as soon as it hits the shelves here. But it would be nice to see how the 4 and 6 cores do compared to the 8 core. And this motherboard is awesome. Won't change it until this socket is a goner. Or if I blow something up..










they already have the 6100 n 4100 on those benches n they were worst...

the ph ii x4 980 and i3 > the 8150 in some cases...

btw kzone you'll need a better PSU if you go w/ the fx-chip


----------



## Rebelord

I still like my UD7. Audio is tons better than my old board. Have a slot between my video cards in crossfire, both run at full x16 speeds. vs x16/x8 on my old board. Plus, 6 native SATAIII ports, cant complain.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *omni_vision*


they already have the 6100 n 4100 on those benches n they were worst...

the ph ii x4 980 and i3 > the 8150 in some cases...

btw kzone you'll need a better PSU if you go w/ the fx-chip


Haven't had time to look at all the benches yet. Just woke up.








I do know I will need a better PSU. This one will go into another build with the 965BE. I help the computer store where I buy stuff quite a lot, so I can just pick one up if need be. Just need to point and chose. And I get the 8 core for about half the price when it gets there.


----------



## el gappo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


So I have a 1090T that does this in Cinebench:








I could quite easily get higher too.
What would be the point upgrading to Bulldozer? Apart from the simple fun of testing a new product.

For reference a 4.818GHz BD scores just 7.95.


Is that my old chip?







Dat voltage!










Bulldozer on air and yes there's headroom









So air BD > phased thuban?


----------



## greed

lol 1.74v crazy

@el gwappo

no ocp yet? i wonder what the set ocp is on the gigabytes 990fx boards, did the heatsink heat up?


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:



Originally Posted by *el gappo*


Is that my old chip?







Dat voltage!










Bulldozer on air and yes there's headroom









So air BD > phased thuban?










That's much more what I'd hope to see from Bulldozer. But still that isn't exactly a huge win for a brand new architecture. You're also running far nicer RAM then myself.

Also with this UD7's Vdroop the voltage drops to around 1.6v underload.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *greed*


lol 1.74v crazy


Read up, UD7's have massive Vdroop underload with a highly overclocked Thuban.


----------



## el gappo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*


That's much more what I'd hope to see from Bulldozer. But still that isn't exactly a huge win for a brand new architecture. You're also running far nicer RAM then myself.

Also with this UD7's Vdroop the voltage drops to around 1.6v underload.

Read up, UD7's have massive Vdroop underload with a highly overclocked Thuban.


ohhhh I didn't notice the giga board.

I'm in the CHV atm. Got a UD5 sitting here tho. No, no OCP atall, not once, no hot board either. Don't have a killawatt handy unfortunately.

Ram doesn't really play any role in cine bench, infact...










Little faster a little looser here. We have to remember 1 thing; 99% of reviewers don't have a clue how to OC


----------



## m_jones_

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omni_vision;15272961*
> anyone feel like they got ripped off?


Not really since my AM3 board fried and needed a replacement.


----------



## rawsteel




----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *m_jones_*


Not really since my AM3 board fried and needed a replacement.


how so???


----------



## lswaidz

Hey guys... been a while since I've been in here, trying to get caught up...

I have a UD3 rev 1.0 running F4 with a 1090T. I was running 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance 1600 and had NO problem OC'ing to 3.7 JUST through the multiplier. It would go up to 4 with a little Vcore bump, but I was happy with the 3.7 and stock vcore.

I recently added another 2x4GB of matching memory, swapped out my Arctic Freezer 64 for a Corsair H60 and swapped out my old 2x 4850 GPU's for a Sapphire 6970.

Now any and ALL OC's error on POST and reset. If I disable OC and set everything to auto it still errors and says it failed due to a back overclock... WITH STOCK SETTINGS.

What is going on here? Is this because of the 2nd set of RAM? I had that problem on my old 790GX/Phenom 9850... with 2x2GB it OC'd to whatever I wanted, but when I added a end set of DIMM's it could barely hit a 10% OC... is this a known problem or so I have some other issue here?

And no, I have not tried removing the new memory yet... wanted to get some input from the pros before I go pulling hardware.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

@ lswaidz

Remove the new RAM sticks and then reset the BIOS settings (clear cmos).

Too many changes at a time... go step by step.


----------



## infini

The strange is that the Bulldozer is listed in the CPU support list of 990FXA-UD5 and 990FXA-UD7, but not at 990FXA-UD3.


----------



## lswaidz

@GaToMaLaCo

I was unaware that swapping video cards/HSF had an effect on the BIOS settings...

I will remove the 2 new sticks of RAM and reset this afternoon. Once it's 100% back to stock settings do you then recommend adding the 2 other sticks and trying to OC from there?

EDIT: Didn't even have to remove the RAM. Shorted CMOS reset, fired it up... BOOM back to 3.7... memory up to 1600 too... which is nice. Thanks for your advice, GaToMaLaCo... I feel like such an idiot for not even thinking to reset it


----------



## mxthunder

Well now that BD sucks, I am looking into the hard mod for my UD7 so I can get some more speed out of my 1090 without the high idle voltage.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15276290*
> Well now that BD sucks, I am looking into the hard mod for my UD7 so I can get some more speed out of my 1090 without the high idle voltage.


Check out Sin's review of the UD7. He talks about how and where to hard mod the UD7.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## mystikalrush

Everyone still not able to boot F5A with UD3?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;15278658*
> Everyone still not able to boot F5A with UD3?


F5A is a no-go. We'll need to flash to F5A right before we put bulldozer in. I think..


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15278724*
> F5A is a no-go. We'll need to flash to F5A right before we put bulldozer in. I think..


Thats what im scared of. I have talk to gigabyte ALOT and they cannot replicate the results, everything over there is "Just fine" with there setup all they can do is tell me to use F4... seriously?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;15278742*
> Thats what im scared of. I have talk to gigabyte ALOT and they cannot replicate the results, everything over there is "Just fine" with there setup all they can do is tell me to use F4... seriously?


Sorry I can't be more helpful.


----------



## hellr4isEr

hey i need some help.. running the UD5/Phenom II 840.. the cpu is pretty much a simple use cpu.. but i need to update my cpu for good gaming.. with the benchmarks being crappy but i havent seen them.. i need to figure out what cpu to get..

is it smarter to get the fx6100 or the 1090t? for 6 core
is it smarter to get the fx4100 or the 970be? for 4 core

any suggestions or thoughts would be great.. need help making a decision..


----------



## MadGoat

http://www.kitguru.net/components/cpu/zardon/amd-fx-8150-black-edition-8-core-review-with-gigabyte-990fxa-ud7/

8150 Paired with a UD7 review.

All in all it doesn't look like a Bad proc. Only when you look into benchmarks and not real world use it doesn't look all that great.

When this thing hits close to $200, it will be a worthy contender...


----------



## mxthunder

Gonna try to update to newest bios tonight to aleviate the Vdroop issue as opposed to doing the hard mod, then get another 200mhz out of my 1090


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lswaidz;15276226*
> @GaToMaLaCo
> 
> I was unaware that swapping video cards/HSF had an effect on the BIOS settings...
> 
> I will remove the 2 new sticks of RAM and reset this afternoon. Once it's 100% back to stock settings do you then recommend adding the 2 other sticks and trying to OC from there?
> 
> EDIT: Didn't even have to remove the RAM. Shorted CMOS reset, fired it up... BOOM back to 3.7... memory up to 1600 too... which is nice. Thanks for your advice, GaToMaLaCo... I feel like such an idiot for not even thinking to reset it


Great!
now happy OC! ^_^


----------



## MadGoat

http://www.rage3d.com/reviews/cpu/amd_fx_8150/index.php?p=7

Whoa! Check this out. BD seems to REALLY like some memory speed and northbridge OC. Gives a really nice jump in performance than from just clock speed alone ;-)

U ud5 and ud7 guys can pump that LLC up, crank that NB and memory and have yourself a real contender! Now I'm curious how us UD3 guys will get by with our different power... ;-)


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infini;15275197*
> The strange is that the Bulldozer is listed in the CPU support list of 990FXA-UD5 and 990FXA-UD7, but not at 990FXA-UD3.


It's actually supported.

Socket AM3+
MotherboardModelGA-990FXA-UD3
PCB1.0
vendorCPU ModelFrequencyL2
CacheL3
CacheCore NameProcessSteppingWattageSystem
Bus(MT/s)Since BIOS Version
AMDFX-81503600MHz1MBx88MBBulldozer32nmB2125W5200F3
AMDFX-81203100MHz1MBx88MBBulldozer32nmB2125W5200F3
AMDFX-81203100MHz1MBx88MBBulldozer32nmB295W5200F3
AMDFX-81002800MHz1MBx88MBBulldozer32nmB295W5200F3
AMDFX-61003300MHz1MBx68MBBulldozer32nmB295W5200F3
AMDFX-41003600MHz1MBx48MBBulldozer32nmB295W5200F3

I just updated to the F4 yesterday and ran into a disaster


----------



## omni_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infini;15275197*
> The strange is that the Bulldozer is listed in the CPU support list of 990FXA-UD5 and 990FXA-UD7, but not at 990FXA-UD3.


ty gigabyte and amd last time...


----------



## lswaidz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omni_vision;15280206*
> ty gigabyte and amd last time...


Shows up on the rev 1.0: http://www.gigabyte.us/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=3894


----------



## omni_vision

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lswaidz*


Shows up on the rev 1.0: http://www.gigabyte.us/support-downl....aspx?pid=3894


i got Rev. 2 and F2 bios i can flash

but y downgrade when my phenom II x4 @4ghz will run circles around the 8150 on games. and if the 8150 is OC'd PSU needs to upgrade n those temps o.0 pass

either i'm gonna stay w/ the phenom II x4 and maybe get a 2500k which can easily clock to 4.5Ghz under 60C less power n w/o the OC laughs at the FX series.


----------



## mxthunder

Just updated to F6e, I have the exact same amount of Vdroop. 
Not sure what to do now, my idle voltage is 1.568 so I cant really crank anything up anymore.


----------



## michintom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *omni_vision*


i got Rev. 2 and F2 bios i can flash

but y downgrade when my phenom II x4 @4ghz will run circles around the 8150 on games. and if the 8150 is OC'd PSU needs to upgrade n those temps o.0 pass

either i'm gonna stay w/ the phenom II x4 and maybe get a 2500k which can easily clock to 4.5Ghz under 60C less power n w/o the OC laughs at the FX series.


Wait...your telling me that 8150 oc'ed to about 4.5ghz will require a new PSU?
I guess the same will go for me


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:



Originally Posted by *michintom*


Wait...your telling me that 8150 oc'ed to about 4.5ghz will require a new PSU?
I guess the same will go for me










Yeah, id like to know this aswell, but he wasnt quite details with his explaination, why would a PSU equate to higher Temps? or did you mean high wattage?


----------



## omni_vision

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*


Yeah, id like to know this aswell, but he wasnt quite details with his explaination, why would a PSU equate to higher Temps? or did you mean high wattage?


read the threads n reviews its everywhere.


----------



## michintom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *omni_vision*


read the threads n reviews its everywhere.


Yeah, I read a lot of the reviews. 8150 @ 4.5~4.6Ghz draws about 480W? at full load. On top of that running 6950 in crossfire isn't going to cut it for my little tx750


----------



## mystikalrush

i really hope a 750w will hold with a single 570 and oc'd 8150.


----------



## omni_vision

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*


i really hope a 750w will hold with a single 570 and oc'd 8150.


try > 800w w/ a fx-8150 + 460gtx


----------



## michintom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*


i really hope a 750w will hold with a single 570 and oc'd 8150.


Doesn't seem like it.
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...review-20.html

Most of the reviews I read are saying that oc'd 8150 will draw 500W~550W.


----------



## omni_vision

i was hoping for a better gaming rig but

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/cpu...-8150-review/9

"Note: an issue with the Steam version of Shogun 2 and the FX-8150 caused the system to crash when it tried to load the level. AMD is looking into the situation."


----------



## mystikalrush

My god thats rediculous power, and with a measily 460... so any top end gpu you would need like 900w+?


----------



## itsgucci

Ooookay, really disappointed by the Bulldozer, nuff said.
Will settle with a 955 or something and just do regular work on that PC. The Bulldozer is no good, I could of gotten an i5 2500k for $180 at microcenter, why did I pick an AM3+ motherboard, whyyyyyyy?

P.S 
To everyone wondering how the 6 core version is doing as far as benching and overall scaling under subzero temperatures - I.M.O.G. of OCF is doing live LN2 benching session with the 6 core Bulldozer.
LINK


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *michintom*


Doesn't seem like it.
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...review-20.html

Most of the reviews I read are saying that oc'd 8150 will draw 500W~550W.










This is PURE BS.
385w with a GTX560.


----------



## LBear

No game is gonna run all 8 cores at full load look at it that way


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *LBear*


No game is gonna run all 8 cores at full load look at it that way


+1 on this one, plus as I said - its pure BS, the overall draw is nowhere near 500w as half of the guys over here say.


----------



## rawsteel

Should I Update to a FX-6100 or wait for Piledriver..?


----------



## mystikalrush

So a OC'd 8150, say 4-4.8GHz and a GTX 570 (Oc'd too) with a reliable 750w PSU would suffice?


----------



## gabead

I just got my board I am within 30 days as well as the processor. I don't think I am going to exchange it though. It would only cost $40 plus I am sure there will be restocking fees. I don't think it would be worth it. Plus the Piledriver is schedule to release early 2012..maybe. IDK. Are you guys happy with what you have now?


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*


So a OC'd 8150, say 4-4.8GHz and a GTX 570 (Oc'd too) with a reliable 750w PSU would suffice?


Yes, don't worry about that.
You should be good to go! 
8150's turbo boost gets this thing to 4,2-4,3ghz so yeah, shouldn't have any problems at 4,5.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:



Originally Posted by *rawsteel*


Should I Update to a FX-6100 or wait for Piledriver..?


Wait for it.
I was fairly disappointed when I saw the bench setup the Plesio guys got, 8 core CPU getting the crap its crap beaten by a quad core Intel, that's just pathetic, period.


----------



## Sin0822

i promised an OC guide here it is:
http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/11...ng-charts.html

it was done with a UD7, upto 5.3ghz too, but of course not stable. I also have performance scaling charts with really everything you can think of.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Can some one please help, when I am stress testing my vcore it is jumping by up to 0.1v How can I change or stop this?

I think it has something to do with the PLL settings but when I change them from normal they seem to do nothing.

I currently have bios F2, I can't seem to update my bios at the moment (mind you I have not really spent time trying), is it really needed if I dont plan on upgrading or change my system?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts;15289163*
> Can some one please help, when I am stress testing my vcore it is jumping by up to 0.1v How can I change or stop this?
> 
> I think it has something to do with the PLL settings but when I change them from normal they seem to do nothing.
> 
> I currently have bios F2, I can't seem to update my bios at the moment (mind you I have not really spent time trying), is it really needed if I dont plan on upgrading or change my system?


It's normal for these UD3s. What volts are you using?
If your system is running nicely now, I don't see the need to flash the BIOS. If you do flash it, go with the F4.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15289250*
> It's normal for these UD3s. What volts are you using?
> If your system is running nicely now, I don't see the need to flash the BIOS. If you do flash it, go with the F4.


I currently have a 4.2Ghz with 1.5v in bios and during stressing it hits 1.62v at the most, temp. is still in the 50's (Celsius).

Would changing to the F4 bios help with the occasional problem of the usb ports not being activated during windows start up some times?

If not I guess there is no need then.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts;15289278*
> I currently have a 4.2Ghz with 1.5v in bios and during stressing it hits 1.62v at the most, temp. is still in the 50's (Celsius).
> 
> Would changing to the F4 bios help with the occasional problem of the usb ports not being activated during windows start up some times?
> 
> If not I guess there is no need then.


ooh You see that huge kind of a jump.. I am not sure but I think you're the first here using a 6 core on a UD3. 6 core users experience the same thing on UD5s and UD7s. I only see a vdroop.. And that droop is tiny.
The F4 did help with usb ports not activating, yes.


----------



## michintom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *itsgucci*


Yes, don't worry about that.
You should be good to go! 
8150's turbo boost gets this thing to 4,2-4,3ghz so yeah, shouldn't have any problems at 4,5.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*


So a OC'd 8150, say 4-4.8GHz and a GTX 570 (Oc'd too) with a reliable 750w PSU would suffice?


Exactly what I wanted to know.
My sig rig upgraded to a 8150 @ 4.5ghz would have no issues?


----------



## orcsnot

Hey guys,
I'm having trouble unlocking the 4th core of my Phenom II x2 555 BE with my UD3, and I'm not sure why, since it would unlock fine with my last board, which was an ASUS. I've set everything to stock and tried unlocking it through the BIOS, but it always freezes the second I start Prime95. Does anyone have any ideas why it would work with the older board and not this one?


----------



## MadGoat

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...3894&dl=1#bios

F5B is out...


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadGoat*


http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...3894&dl=1#bios

F5B is out...


Yeah, it's been out for a while. But don't flash to it until you've got your hands on a BD. You'll get stuck at "loading operating system".

oh duuh.. It was F5A I was thinking about.









Edit..F5b works. Yay!


----------



## mystikalrush

Wait the F5B works? cause i just downloaded it and once extracted, the file name was still F5a...

*Edit* okay i downloaded the Europe link just to be sure and there it was the F5b... why they dont updated Americas link, i have no idea, just a heads up for those who updated bios double check its F5b not F5a again, if so choose different region.

Success! F5b working great.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*


Wait the F5B works? cause i just downloaded it and once extracted, the file name was still F5a...

*Edit* okay i downloaded the Europe link just to be sure and there it was the F5b... why they dont updated Americas link, i have no idea, just a heads up for those who updated bios double check its F5b not F5a again, if so choose different region.

Success! F5b working great.


Try rebooting again. It failed when I rebooted a second time..


----------



## mystikalrush

oh man seriously? now i dont want to reboot


----------



## mystikalrush

I restarted two times and everything booted up fine, not sure what happened in your case.


----------



## kzone75

User error, I am sure.







Works fine now.


----------



## MadGoat

So what are we all doing with our shiny new boards?

Guess I'll be looking for a cheap x6...

What ya'll planning?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15296412*
> So what are we all doing with our shiny new boards?
> 
> Guess I'll be looking for a cheap x6...
> 
> What ya'll planning?


Me? running 7 VMs at the same time and happy as a king. And enjoying some flac files with my ATH-A700


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15296412*
> So what are we all doing with our shiny new boards?
> 
> Guess I'll be looking for a cheap x6...
> 
> What ya'll planning?


Well. I have been looking into one last detail about my UD3.. if it supports TRIM or not. if it dose I plan to use it, if not I'm taking it back to micro center inplace of one that dose I might drop my 955 for a 1090t though.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15296412*
> So what are we all doing with our shiny new boards?
> 
> Guess I'll be looking for a cheap x6...
> 
> What ya'll planning?


FX-8150.. But I have no idea how long I have to wait.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15297337*
> Well. I have been looking into one last detail about my UD3.. if it supports TRIM or not. if it dose I plan to use it, if not I'm taking it back to micro center inplace of one that dose I might drop my 955 for a 1090t though.


TRIM is supported.


----------



## MadGoat

Is a 1090t pretty easy to hit 4ghz? say with a h60 coolin' it?


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15297476*
> Is a 1090t pretty easy to hit 4ghz? say with a h60 coolin' it?


Pretty much guaranteed, even with early chips.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;15297496*
> Pretty much guaranteed, even with early chips.


Well, then... away I go A-Lookin'


----------



## BlackamusJones

I recently got a 990FXA-UD3 about a week ago (rev 1.00.) Everything is working fine (though the cpu temps are a little higher than I'd like.)

I was just wondering if I should bother updating the bios since it came with bios F2 on it. Or if I shouldn't even bother since it's running alright.


----------



## el gappo

At this point... if it works leave it. Earlier bios's are more likely to be tuned for deneb/thuban rather than FX so leave it be lol.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15297411*
> FX-8150.. But I have no idea how long I have to wait.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TRIM is supported.


Sweet! I couldnt find anything about TRIM on the giga website. do all 990FX chipsets support it or somthing?? i must have missed somthing lol

in that case, I'm going to use my UD3, 955BE with a Crucial M4 64 gig ssd for OS and office THEN add a second F3 (short stroked to 250-500 GB each) in raid 0 for games/programs along with an updated PSU (I like the TX-850), then there is this RAM...later I'll work on the 1090t (unless BD picks up or somthing) and CF 6970's I might call the rig "Black Out" lol.


----------



## MadGoat

Trim support is provided by the OS and the driver associated with the Sata controller being used.

Windows 7 and the Sata controller on the the 990fx chipset support Trim


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackamusJones;15297771*
> I recently got a 990FXA-UD3 about a week ago (rev 1.00.) Everything is working fine *(though the cpu temps are a little higher than I'd like.)*
> 
> I was just wondering if I should bother updating the bios since it came with bios F2 on it. Or if I shouldn't even bother since it's running alright.


You know that has nothing to do with the m/b, right?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15297887*
> Trim support is provided by the OS and the driver associated with the Sata controller being used.
> 
> Windows 7 and the Sata controller on the the 990fx chipset support Trim


yea, I missed that. Still looking into more info on SSD's lol, forgive my noobishness


----------



## BlackamusJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;15297910*
> You know that has nothing to do with the m/b, right?


I am definitely aware of that. I plan on redoing the thermal paste and installing the new CPU cooler once it's here. I was just taken surprised with the temperature increase


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15297912*
> yea, I missed that. Still looking into more info on SSD's lol, forgive my noobishness


No "noobishness", only the correct questions.









I myself am interested in an SSD as well.

I think I'm waiting for the samsung 830 SSD. Cant wait to get my hands on one...


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackamusJones;15297957*
> I am definitely aware of that. I plan on redoing the thermal paste and installing the new CPU cooler once it's here. I was just taken surprised with the temperature increase


If your using stock I wouldn't be.







I saw a 10-12c drop in CPU temps from stock to the Silver Arrow.







Btw, welcome to OCN! Time to fill out your system specs! There's a link in my sig if you don't know where to go.


----------



## BlackamusJones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai;15298066*
> If your using stock I wouldn't be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I saw a 10-12c drop in CPU temps from stock to the Silver Arrow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, welcome to OCN! Time to fill out your system specs! There's a link in my sig if you don't know where to go.


I am using the stock heatsink/fan for my 1090T.







I went from using a 790fx chipset ASUS motherboard over to this board after it died on me. I noticed a temperature increase, but also noticed much more of the cpu actually being utilized in the same games and applications I had been using before (which did yield much better performance.) didn't help that I also probably put on too much thermal paste.

Thank you for the welcome to this website.









I'll definitely fill that out, and will be on here quite a bit


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15297985*
> No "noobishness", only the correct questions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I myself am interested in an SSD as well.
> 
> I think I'm waiting for the samsung 830 SSD. Cant wait to get my hands on one...


I can offer you one piece of advice move any and all parts of windows that do alot of writing to drive to another drive(page file, temp internet files...that kind of stuff). this will be my second round with SSD's. first one was an OCZ agility(crap drive....i mean CRAP!!!). at the time I didnt even know what trim was, only that I should not let windows do lots of writ's to drive lol.

EDIT: that looks like a sweet drive, what size do you plan to get?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackamusJones;15298217*
> I am using the stock heatsink/fan for my 1090T.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went from using a 790fx chipset ASUS motherboard over to this board after it died on me. I noticed a temperature increase, but also noticed much more of the cpu actually being utilized in the same games and applications I had been using before (which did yield much better performance.) didn't help that I also probably put on too much thermal paste.
> 
> Thank you for the welcome to this website.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll definitely fill that out, and will be on here quite a bit


No prob dood. Lot of really helpful, knowledgeable people here. Also check out *Take Better Pictures* in my sig...not posting ginormous pictures of your rig will be greatly appreciated by other users.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15298356*
> I can offer you one piece of advice move any and all parts of windows that do alot of writing to drive to another drive(page file, temp internet files...that kind of stuff). this will be my second round with SSD's. first one was an OCZ agility(crap drive....i mean CRAP!!!). at the time I didnt even know what trim was, only that I should not let windows do lots of writ's to drive lol.
> 
> EDIT: that looks like a sweet drive, what size do you plan to get?


Right now 120gb seems to be the sweet spot. And for my space requirements will barley fit my needs. I would like to see 200gb+ as affordable, but I don't think that will happen until middle-end of next year.

I have played with SSD's before... 40gb and what not as boot drives. And TBH it wasn't worth the hassle of splitting everything up between the ssd and my raid array. Speed increase was just not worth it.

I use a home server with a gigabit switch at home, so my storage is all mapped to the WHS. 120gb would work, while keeping my raid 0 for programs that i dont need the speed for (IE, office install, scratch disc for video rips and what not and so on).

edit: plus being able to run the SSD in AHCI and use trim while being able to maintain my raid 0 array with this board is a BIG bonus.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15298728*
> Right now 120gb seems to be the sweet spot. And for my space requirements will barley fit my needs. I would like to see 200gb+ as affordable, but I don't think that will happen until middle-end of next year.
> 
> I have played with SSD's before... 40gb and what not as boot drives. And TBH it wasn't worth the hassle of splitting everything up between the ssd and my raid array. Speed increase was just not worth it.
> 
> I use a home server with a gigabit switch at home, so my storage is all mapped to the WHS. 120gb would work, while keeping my raid 0 for programs that i dont need the speed for (IE, office install, scratch disc for video rips and what not and so on).


The reason I suggested splitting up windows, is the more you write to the SSD the faster it will degrade(with in reason that is). let me know how it goes


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15298764*
> The reason I suggested splitting up windows, is the more you write to the SSD the faster it will degrade(with in reason that is). let me know how it goes


For sure,

Pretty much why im not interested in SSDs until the price/gb ratio gets closer. In respect to data partitions and organizing my drives... I pretty much want one "logical" drive. The older I get, the less I want to worry about space constants or "where something should be installed".









But with the newer SSDs and the over provisioning, i dont think we really need to worry about the writes. They still pretty much have a life expectancy much higher than that of a platter hard drive.

Only thing that is a worry now is the controllers longevity and support via firmware. That is what peaks my interest in Samsung's SSDs. (In house Arm based controller with in house firmware, and IC's)

one of these days...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15299103*
> For sure,
> 
> Pretty much why im not interested in SSDs until the price/gb ratio gets closer. In respect to data partitions and organizing my drives... I pretty much want one "logical" drive. The older I get, the less I want to worry about space constants or "where something should be installed".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But with the newer SSDs and the over provisioning, i dont think we really need to worry about the writes. They still pretty much have a life expectancy much higher than that of a platter hard drive.
> 
> Only thing that is a worry now is the controllers longevity and support via firmware. That is what peaks my interest in Samsung's SSDs. (In house Arm based controller with in house firmware, and IC's)
> 
> one of these days...


I see! good points I am now looking at the samsung 64 gig SSD lol.


----------



## tw33k

If I can get an FX-8150 for around ~$200 I'll grab one. Otherwise I might just get a 1090T. Either way, I really need to upgrade my CPU. It's holding everything back


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tw33k*


If I can get an FX-8150 for around ~$200 I'll grab one. Otherwise I might just get a 1090T. Either way, I really need to upgrade my CPU. It's holding everything back


This is pretty much how I'm feeling about this situation.

8120 is about 200... but will it clock the same? ... hmmmm


----------



## drufause

I have actually been wondering that myself. The max turbo on 8150 is 4.x whereas 8120 is listed as 4.0. But 8150 starts at 3.6 and 8120 at 3.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

I would love to grab a new BD chip, but its not much of an upgrade over my 955 BE as far as I can tell. at this time, the 1090t seems to be the best bang for buck next to the 955BE, and to tell you the truth I see no real reason to update my CPU ouside of the fact that I am going to be buying a CPU for my wife's rig(she's getting my sig rig mobo when I install my UD3) so rather than buy another 955 for her I kind of like the idea of the 1090. I want to let BD stew in its own juice's for a bit. I'll bet in the next few months a new revision will be put out and it will perform much much better than the current chip dose.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*


I would love to grab a new BD chip, but its not much of an upgrade over my 955 BE as far as I can tell. at this time, the 1090t seems to be the best bang for buck next to the 955BE, and to tell you the truth I see no real reason to update my CPU ouside of the fact that I am going to be buying a CPU for my wife's rig(she's getting my sig rig mobo when I install my UD3) so rather than buy another 955 for her I kind of like the idea of the 1090. I want to let BD stew in its own juice's for a bit. I'll bet in the next few months a new revision will be put out and it will perform much much better than the current chip dose.



Wow, that's creepy....

Here my thought was: "Maybe i should just get a x6 and oc it up to 4+ and wait for next revision BD chips. When Something good comes out, I'll snatch up a new BD chip and replace the 940 (running @ 3.6) in my wife's rig with the x6"










You read my mind sir...


----------



## tw33k

I'm also tempted to forget all about the 8120/50, grab a 1090T and wait for BD rev2


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadGoat*


Wow, that's creepy....

Here my thought was: "Maybe i should just get a x6 and oc it up to 4+ and wait for next revision BD chips. When Something good comes out, I'll snatch up a new BD chip and replace the 940 (running @ 3.6) in my wife's rig with the x6"










You read my mind sir...


lol, that is kinda creepy!!! great mind's think alike I guess.


----------



## BramSLI1

1090T it is then. I'll be getting one shortly as well.


----------



## nukedukem86

Anyone notice they took the F6D bios off the UD5 page? I wonder why...


----------



## mystikalrush

Interesting indeed, both UD5 and 7 are removed, yet UD3 with the recent update that fixed the hang issue is still there with the updated AGESA code.


----------



## MadGoat

Probably the best bulldozer review I've seen yet...

I post it here, well because some of use are looking for decision making material. This review I feel is the closest to "what we are looking for" out of all of them. It has great Overclocked tests on everything, and really shows what a OC'ed 1090t can do compared to a OC'ed 8150.

To be honest, its sad bulldozer is getting such a bad rap. I'm actually rather impressed with it from these benches.

However, when I consider the 2billion transistors under its hood... I begin to wonder.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15306634*
> Probably the best bulldozer review I've seen yet...
> 
> I post it here, well because some of use are looking for decision making material. This review I feel is the closest to "what we are looking for" out of all of them. It has great Overclocked tests on everything, and really shows what a OC'ed 1090t can do compared to a OC'ed 8150.
> 
> To be honest, its sad bulldozer is getting such a bad rap. I'm actually rather impressed with it from these benches.
> 
> However, when I consider the 2billion transistors under its hood... I begin to wonder.


Now we would need someone with a Gigabyte 990FXA mobo and a FX-8150 to run exactly those benchmarks. Just to see how it scales.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

For me what BD delivers is 8 cores for less than a 2600K cost (with only 4 cores).
It is not a speed demon... but a nice bunch of oportunities and plenty headroom... and don't forget: using a 125w tdp!!! nice!!! ^_^

PD: 6 core BD chip... has lower tdp?


----------



## MadGoat

6 Cores have one module disabled. Drop the wattage right out of it...

On the other hand, once overclocked... TDP goes right out the window.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15306869*
> 6 Cores have one module disabled. Drop the wattage right out of it...
> 
> On the other hand, once overclocked... TDP goes right out the window.


OC???? thats bad! It will short the life of the chip, motherboard and all things in the universe... how you dare to say such as thing! lol joking XD

Now seriusly... seems its needs a little nuclear reactor to power it... PSU above 800w or more!

"Are you a green god or do you just glow in the dark?"


----------



## Garanthor

This is a first for me and a big surprise as I have always used Gigabyte boards and loved them but.....

I bought the 990FXA UD5 as an upgrade fom my 790FX UD5 so I could use the BD chips. Shortly after installing, strange things started to happen like my power would suddenly cut out, or I would get random blue screens. Now before you even start to suggest anything, I'm not a computer noob, I've been building and tweaking them for several years so you can safely assume I checked everything. Then my SSD started to act up. I had to twice rebuild the master boot record. Then finally one day the SSD (OCZ Vertex 2) just died completely...totally corrupted....can't even recongize it on this or any other computer bios. So I go and buy a new Vertex 3 Max IOPS and plug it in then start a fresh installation of win 7 64 bit pro. Guess what, I can't even make it through the installation without getting multiple blue screens. I tested memory, tested power supply (Corsair AX1200), all is well. I used new BIOS, reveted back to old BIOS, same thing, system crashed and my new very expensive SSD is slowly getting corrupted each time. Last item on the list that would explain everything???....the Motherboard of course.







Now I have to go through the painfull RMA process as my motherboard is over 30 days old. I'm tempted to just say screw it and get an Asus formula V but I hate throwing more money away. I am so pissed right now and so dissapointed with Gigabyte!


----------



## MadGoat

Honestly Power consumption is not that bad... Its not the greatest I'll admit, but its not NEARLY as bad as people are playing it out to be.

Take a look:

First off, look at the test setup:








Notice the *6990* video card used. That thing is no slouch when it comes to power hunger. (that is a dual GPU card)

Now look at the *System* power consumption. (this is what the complete system is pulling from the wall)









Now I pulled the max OC of the 1100t and Max OC of the bulldozer together up at the top to get a closer idea of the real wattage used there.

*Now look at the "Load" amount. That's with ONLY the CPU loaded.

*Now the 3dmark load is the 6990 loaded to its max and whatever the CPU needs to feed it. (more Representative of a real world scenario).

Now, all thing considered, that isn't really all that bad. BUT, lets "worst case scenario" this for fun...

Using These figures and with the prior knowledge of the 6990 in question here is an "OC" model, I think its safe to assume around a *350watts* max draw number for the 6990.(that's a crap load of power for one video card)

Ok, for the easy part. Using the "load" figure from the previous data, we can assume the GPU during this test was idle. Now knowing the individual power consumption of the video card in question, it is as simple as adding the two together. (for a rough "worst case scenario" estimate)

446 + 350 = 796 watts

Now consider this is for what can be considered on of the most top of the line systems today, not only that but the components of which are overclocked to their max stability... I personally think that's a pretty damn respectable result.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;15307690*
> This is a first for me and a big surprise as I have always used Gigabyte boards and loved them but.....


I Had this happen once with an old ECS k7s5a. Its turned out one of the heatsinks to the board's chipset was literally suck on with double sided tape







. (whereby not cooling the chispet and causing the storage controller to go haywire, corrupting everything and even crashing every initial attempt to install windows)

It had no clip holes for heatsink mounting... nothing. So I ended up using the smallest dab of thermal compound in the center of the die and "Super Gluing" the four corners of the heatsink on to the chip.









What I'm getting at here is, your board probably has a bad southbridge chipset cooler in some way. (bad contact, they forgot the thermal pad...etc)

Sorry to hear your troubles. RMA that bad boy, Im sure you'll love it once you get it running.

Here...







Its on me...


----------



## Airrick10

Hi All, I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev1.0 board and last night I bought the antec kuhler h2o 620 to replace my Hyper 212+. I had a bit of trouble removing the backplate and while struggling and being careless, I damaged and broke one of the little blocks in the back of the board behind where the CPU is located. Any idea what these blocks are/do? THANK GOD my pc is working and so far no problems! Ran Intel Burn Test at maximum and it passed. Should I be worried that something bad might happen due to that block breaking off in the near future???


----------



## Whyzguy

First:



is this enough to get me into the club? (kinda new to the whole club thing)

Second:

The heatsink on the UD5 blocked off my PCIe-1x sound card







so I had to move it to another PCIe slot. I'm now trying to fill the 1x with a wireless adapter card. Anyone know if the ASUS PCE-N15 will fit? And since I'm here, anyone have epxeriences with the card?


----------



## tw33k

Gigabyte have removed the F6e BIOS for the UD7 from their website. Hopefully they will release a new version and BD will perform as intended


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15306634*
> Probably the best bulldozer review I've seen yet...
> 
> I post it here, well because some of use are looking for decision making material. This review I feel is the closest to "what we are looking for" out of all of them. It has great Overclocked tests on everything, and really shows what a OC'ed 1090t can do compared to a OC'ed 8150.
> 
> To be honest, its sad bulldozer is getting such a bad rap. I'm actually rather impressed with it from these benches.
> 
> However, when I consider the 2billion transistors under its hood... I begin to wonder.


I found the advertising displayed while I was reading that review to be somewhat ironic...


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10;15308226*
> Hi All, I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev1.0 board and last night I bought the antec kuhler h2o 620 to replace my Hyper 212+. I had a bit of trouble removing the backplate and while struggling and being careless, I damaged and broke one of the little blocks in the back of the board behind where the CPU is located. Any idea what these blocks are/do? THANK GOD my pc is working and so far no problems! Ran Intel Burn Test at maximum and it passed. Should I be worried that something bad might happen due to that block breaking off in the near future???


Someone please correct me if I'm wrong,

I believe those a SMT capacitors. They help the trace load in high inrush current situations. They are installed in series with the load circuit.

They are important however, SMT's are generally not labeled. Without having a electrical print of the board it may be nearly impossible to figure out the specs of the part needed. You might be able to contact gigabyte for the information.

Sucks to see that happen. I have done it before myself. I have (and usually) take a component off of a scrap board to replace mess ups like that. Surface mount IC's are hard to solder though.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15309802*
> Someone please correct me if I'm wrong,
> 
> I believe those a SMT capacitors. They help the trace load in high inrush current situations. They are installed in series with the load circuit.
> 
> They are important however, SMT's are generally not labeled. Without having a electrical print of the board it may be nearly impossible to figure out the specs of the part needed. You might be able to contact gigabyte for the information.
> 
> Sucks to see that happen. I have done it before myself. I have (and usually) take a component off of a scrap board to replace mess ups like that. Surface mount IC's are hard to solder though.


Thanks MadGoat...yeah i was gonna solder the part back in place but ran out of the solder stuff. It is very tiny and i was having a hard time putting it back in place. I'm wondering if it matters what side gets soldered...as far as does it have a + or - side?


----------



## Ballistic Buddha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nukedukem86;15302601*
> Anyone notice they took the F6D bios off the UD5 page? I wonder why...


I was wondering the same thing. I actually flashed my bios to F6D this weekend and pretty much the day that the FX chips hit the market, they pulled it. Sounds like something is definitely up.

Anyway, I've had my UD5 for a couple months and it's been performing alright, despite the fact that once I first got it, I would get constant BSODs when correcting my RAM frequency to the 1600 MHz it's rated for, so I ran 1333 for about a month or two, but once I flashed to F6D, no blue screens @ 1600 MHz.

I have also since gotten some new RAM rated at 1866, but will not up the frequency until My FX-8120 arrives next week. At that time, I will see if the trash benchmarks are universal for all MoBos and BIOS revisions, A pricey risk, I know, but hopefully it should _at the very least_, perform better than my 1055t at its stock 2.8GHz. Also, I will see if the F6D BIOS that was apparently pulled from the website is problematic with BD.

I was never expecting a chip priced about the same as the i5 to blow it out of the water, but I do expect to get somewhat similar performance to Intel's offering at a proximal price point, and for got sakes not worse than my 2 year old PII. Hopefully I won't regret my purchase.


----------



## kzone75

Very interesting. Wonder why they keep the latest BIOS for the UD3 then.. oh well, back to bed..


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10;15310111*
> Thanks MadGoat...yeah i was gonna solder the part back in place but ran out of the solder stuff. It is very tiny and i was having a hard time putting it back in place. I'm wondering if it matters what side gets soldered...as far as does it have a + or - side?


OH! I didn't know you still had the part! That's great!

Those caps are non-polar. It doesnt matter which direction you solder them. They are generally installed with "Solder Paste". So the solder that is there should be enough really. Use some tweezers or a nice pair of needle nose pliers, stick it in place and apply a little bit of pressure while you heat each side... heat quickly and pull away. You don't want to heat the surrounding components up in doing so.

Also, I would suggest doing so without your CPU installed. those pins lead directly to your zif socket and thereby to your proc. (safer than sorry... er?)

GL to ya...


----------



## MadGoat

So I went ahead a grabbed a x6... craiglist FTW! (Was new in the box... cant beat that)

So here is where I'm at so far:









The voltage is as low as it can go to be stable. NB voltage is 1.25. And for some reason the bios caps my memory voltage at 1.628... strange but I suppose its really all I need.

Any words of wisdom... tricks of the trade?


----------



## mystikalrush

wow the PII x6 are quite a jump, i have my 955 at 3.8GHz 1.4v NB 2.6GHz 1.15v and i only score a 4.45 cinebench. So a 8150 would be quite an upgrade then.


----------



## SimpleTech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15310785*
> Very interesting. Wonder why they keep the latest BIOS for the UD3 then.. oh well, back to bed..


And it's interesting that the new BIOS file is now F5b, earlier it was F5a and has the same changelog.


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleTech;15314941*
> And it's interesting that the new BIOS file is now F5b, earlier it was F5a and has the same changelog.


The a to b was a fix for us UD3 only users were the system would hang at "Loading Operating System" other then that the notes are the same. Maybe there something wrong with AGESA 1.1.0.0, yet UD3 is still up there.


----------



## Krahe

Just sent an email to Gigabyte support asking about the BIOS's pulled from their site and when updated versions are likely to be available, long shot, but hopefully they will reply.


----------



## mxthunder

despite the vdroop issues, it really is a good looking motherboard:


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15318105*
> despite the vdroop issues, it really is a good looking motherboard:


Holy poop (hope that was censored enough)!
That's some bad*** cable management!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15318105*
> despite the vdroop issues, it really is a good looking motherboard:


Ooo, can I join in too? Put the x6 in last night... figured might as well get a pic.








Low light grainy phone pic that is...









But they really are good lookin' boards

Oh, thats some nutsauce wc you got in that them there case... I think it might need an extra radiator... right behind the ears









Ooo, just noticed how your loop was done... Little after cooler before the gpu... very cool


----------



## kzone75

@MadGoat How's that H60 treating ya? Good temps?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15320060*
> @MadGoat How's that H60 treating ya? Good temps?


Ya know, I wasn't too impressed with the H60 when I first built this rig. I used an older x3 440 since I had it around and the UD3 could unlock it. It was the only AM3 proc I had that I could use with the board to wait for bulldozer.

But since I installed the 1100t yesterday...










I'm mega impressed with it now. I also switched my thermal paste this build. I figured I would try the MX-4 paste. (I've used zm-stg1 forever) I realized you don't need very much MX-4 at all. Installation is a SUPER breeze with this thing too. No back plate to mess with. An Excalibur fan makes for a great pusher fan for H60. I'm using the stock fan on the back side as the puller. (stock fan is actually a very nice fan)

So yeah, I'm very impressed.


----------



## kzone75

Good temps. And I like your build.







Bought one last week, but I think I need to RMA it. 37C idle with CnQ on, close to 60C under load.. Only running at 3.4GHz. I didn't expect it to be cooler than the Noctua, but there's definitely something wrong with it. Even the stock cooler beats it. Seems like the pump is running empty at times. And it is LOUD. Tried everything and a bunch of thermal paste also. No difference.









oh And the same day I installed it, I rebooted and the temps went climbing over 100C..









Would be nice to see the motherboard at some point. Because the Noctua covers it pretty good. haha


----------



## nukedukem86

I don't know if anyone has already seen/posted this, but I came across this bulldozer overclocking guide for the Fxa boards. This guy is using a G2 bios on the UD7 not available to public. There is an LLC option on the Advanced Bios Features page









http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/46237-bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming.html


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nukedukem86;15321260*
> I don't know if anyone has already seen/posted this, but I came across this bulldozer overclocking guide for the Fxa boards. This guy is using a G2 bios on the UD7 not available to public. There is an LLC option on the Advanced Bios Features page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/46237-bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming.html


Ya, Sin0822 posted the same OC guide here on OCN.net
http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/1140459-bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts.html#post15285303


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nukedukem86;15321260*
> I don't know if anyone has already seen/posted this, but I came across this bulldozer overclocking guide for the Fxa boards. This guy is using a G2 bios on the UD7 not available to public. There is an LLC option on the Advanced Bios Features page
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/46237-bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming.html


He published it here first...http://www.overclock.net/amd-cpus/1140459-bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts.html

beaten by a micro-second


----------



## Rick Arter

Great club got a UD5 few weeks ago along with a 555 BE. Runs great but really cant figure out the settings in BIOS. I am new to AMD overclocking and have a long way to go b4 I get everything maxed out and stable. Just running some CPU-Z & wPrime32 validations for HWBOT now.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15312484*
> OH! I didn't know you still had the part! That's great!
> 
> Those caps are non-polar. It doesnt matter which direction you solder them. They are generally installed with "Solder Paste". So the solder that is there should be enough really. Use some tweezers or a nice pair of needle nose pliers, stick it in place and apply a little bit of pressure while you heat each side... heat quickly and pull away. You don't want to heat the surrounding components up in doing so.
> 
> Also, I would suggest doing so without your CPU installed. those pins lead directly to your zif socket and thereby to your proc. (safer than sorry... er?)
> 
> GL to ya...


Thanks for the tips MadGoat! Yeah I'm very lucky to still have the part...I saw it on the table and was wondering what that was lol


----------



## Airrick10

Ok so I was going to update to the new F5B bios on my UD3 and I got this message. Not sure what it meant and I don't recall getting it when I updated to the F4 bios, so i aborted the update...any idea what this means and is it safe to continue the Bios update???


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10;15322582*
> Ok so I was going to update to the new F5B bios on my UD3 and I got this message. Not sure what it meant and I don't recall getting it when I updated to the F4 bios, so i aborted the update...any idea what this means and is it safe to continue the Bios update???


Looks familiar, so you're good to go.


----------



## mxthunder

Madgoat, sexy GPU setup! What brand are they? I really love the all black look...


----------



## Lostintyme

Hey guys, just letting everyone know I'm selling my UD5 for $155 shipped if anyone wants one. I love the board, it's just I won't be buying Bulldozer. Thanks!


----------



## Se_7_eN

Hey guys,

After browsing this thread for a while I have grown a bit concerned about purchasing one of these boards... My main concern is that with the new build I am putting together I plan on running 2 GTX 580's SLI'd but also plan on getting the Asus Xonar es. 7.1 sound card.
I read with the UD3 the extra PCI slot is blocked when SLI'ing, is it the same case with the UD5? If so, any suggestions on what mobo doesn't block the extra slot?


----------



## omni_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Se_7_eN;15323770*
> I read with the UD3 the extra PCI slot is blocked when SLI'ing, is it the same case with the UD5? If so, any suggestions on what mobo doesn't block the extra slot?


UD5 is gonna be fine, the PCI slot is at the bottom.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ImageGallery.aspx?CurImage=13-128-509-Z03&SpinSet=13-128-509-RS&ISList=13-128-509-Z01%2c13-128-509-Z02%2c13-128-509-Z03%2c13-128-509-Z04%2c13-128-509-Z05&S7ImageFlag=1&Item=N82E16813128509&Depa=0&WaterMark=1&Description=GIGABYTE%20GA-990FXA-UD5%20AM3%2b%20AMD%20990FX%20SATA%206Gb%2fs%20USB%203.0%20ATX%20AMD%20Motherboard


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15322614*
> Looks familiar, so you're good to go.


Thanks Kzone! You were right...just finished updating to the new BIOS!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15323713*
> Madgoat, sexy GPU setup! What brand are they? I really love the all black look...


Thanks...

One card is a BFG the other is a eVGA. I Just took all the stickers and branding off and buffed the plastic with some Meguiar's Plastix.

I've been thinking however about something new. I'm not a big fan of "Shiny". So I've been thinking of spraying the shrouds of the cards with a Semi matte black.


----------



## AgeOfDarkness94

Hello everyone,
Lately I've been trying to unlock the cores on my Phenom X2 550 BE. My Motherboard is a 990fxa-UD3. Everything works fine out of the box, and even when overclocked to 3.6 GHz. However, when I attempt to unlock the locked cores, Windows will not boot. I get a normal POST, but when the "loading windows" screen appears, It freezes. I did have a BSOD once but am unsure of the cause. After disabling the cores, all is normal again. I even set everything to stock settings and bumped the voltage up to accommodate the Vdroop. Still no luck unlocking my CPU. I really doubt its the processor. Perhaps I am doing something wrong in lieu of this board being 2 weeks old. Please advise on what to do.

CPU, GPU and RAM all passed a 12+ hr run on prime 95 at max OC so again, it's not a stability issue.

Thanks in advance.

PS: sorry if this has already been covered, I am new to the site and short on time.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeOfDarkness94;15335776*
> Hello everyone,
> Lately I've been trying to unlock the cores on my Phenom X2 550 BE. My Motherboard is a 990fxa-UD3. Everything works fine out of the box, and even when overclocked to 3.6 GHz. However, when I attempt to unlock the locked cores, Windows will not boot. I get a normal POST, but when the "loading windows" screen appears, It freezes. I did have a BSOD once but am unsure of the cause. After disabling the cores, all is normal again. I even set everything to stock settings and bumped the voltage up to accommodate the Vdroop. Still no luck unlocking my CPU. I really doubt its the processor. Perhaps I am doing something wrong in lieu of this board being 2 weeks old. Please advise on what to do.
> 
> CPU, GPU and RAM all passed a 12+ hr run on prime 95 at max OC so again, it's not a stability issue.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> PS: sorry if this has already been covered, I am new to the site and short on time.


You got unlucky. It would appear that your unlocked core's are unstable. What voltage is your CPU at? have you made an attempt to unlock it at "stock" clock's/freq?


----------



## Particle

Do any of the BIOS revisions for the 990FXA-UD3 not have that CPU throttling issue? Even though C1E, C6, CnQ, turbo core, and hardware thermal control are all off, my 8120 insists on dropping back to 14x under load. The higher the frequency the CPU is set to, the more cores drop back and for longer. At stock (3.1) to 3.2, it doesn't seem to happen. By 4.6, most cores are throttled and for seconds at a time. Consequently, beyond about 4.3 GHz performance actually starts going in reverse for threaded workloads.


----------



## AgeOfDarkness94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15336049*
> You got unlucky. It would appear that your unlocked core's are unstable. What voltage is your CPU at? have you made an attempt to unlock it at "stock" clock's/freq?


Yes, I have tried to unlock them with stock settings unfortunately it did not work.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AgeOfDarkness94;15335776*
> Hello everyone,
> Lately I've been trying to unlock the cores on my Phenom X2 550 BE. My Motherboard is a 990fxa-UD3. Everything works fine out of the box, and even when overclocked to 3.6 GHz. However, when I attempt to unlock the locked cores, Windows will not boot. I get a normal POST, but when the "loading windows" screen appears, It freezes. I did have a BSOD once but am unsure of the cause. After disabling the cores, all is normal again. I even set everything to stock settings and bumped the voltage up to accommodate the Vdroop. Still no luck unlocking my CPU. I really doubt its the processor. Perhaps I am doing something wrong in lieu of this board being 2 weeks old. Please advise on what to do.
> 
> CPU, GPU and RAM all passed a 12+ hr run on prime 95 at max OC so again, it's not a stability issue.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> PS: sorry if this has already been covered, I am new to the site and short on time.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15336049*
> You got unlucky. It would appear that your unlocked core's are unstable. What voltage is your CPU at? have you made an attempt to unlock it at "stock" clock's/freq?


Yeah you may just have been unlucky enough to get a cpu that will not remain stable when you unlock the shut down cores. As I understand it they shut down the cores and sell it as a lower end cpu for 2 reasons: 1- to meet the demands for the price range of the X3 and X2's, and 2- there was a problem during production of an X4 or X6 and some of the cores simply do not function. So you may have received one of the cpu's in the second group where the cores you are trying to unlock simply have something wrong with them.


----------



## Rebelord

^^^as said above. I too have a 555BE in another system. I can unlock a third core. But it is unstable. So, I just left it at 2 cores. However, did OC to 3.8Ghz, but only using a 1090t cooler on it. So its fine. Light load only.

Rebel


----------



## Sin0822

hey you guys having CPu throttling issues, GIGABYTE is aware, but I will need your full system specs and settings to email them to they can try their new BIOSes out.

FYi for the UD7 i had throttling issues with BIOS F5, when i went to BIOS F6E it was fine.

If you have issues with 8GB memory kits, i will need your settings and your specs.

If you can just PM them to me, that would be fantastic, as i don't frequent this thread everyday.


----------



## mystikalrush

Does the UD3 have this type of issue?


----------



## amdgig

M


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15338212*
> Hi all i'm new here .
> 
> Just fitted up a UD3 and i was going to ask a question on CPU's but i just saw the last 2 posts on bios so that'll make 2 questions comments .
> 
> First the cpu , i have used the Phenom x4 960T , just to give it a go.
> In the bios(F5b) as standard as the F4 was , the initial clock setting was 15 , i think , 3000mhz , and i had set turbo on and to 19 3800mhz (not a great memory here and the bios is closed now) and all worked very well .
> 
> So , just playing about in the bios today , i set the standard ratio to 3400mhz , the stock 960T mhz , and turbo to 4000mhz 17? and 20? , anyway whatever they were at the time , all works well so far , so the question is , why did not the bios say it was 3400mhz right from the start?
> 
> Unfortunatley and i do not really care about it that much also , but the bios only sees 4 cores to enable or disable on my cpu , just a heads up and might be different for your cpu .
> 
> Ram i put in is 1600 stuff , yet the bios as standard sets it at 1330 or whatever it is , and twice in different areas , both set on auto , set by spd , so i had to manually configure that also , and the timings...
> 
> So that'll be the second one , why if the bios is smart and the ram and cpu has information imprinted on them yet the bios does not or cannot read them to set it all up?
> 
> cheers all and thanks for reading.
> 
> compared to my old P4 3.8 and agp this thing smokes!


Welcome to OCN.







Actually the default MHz for 960T is 3000, turbo is 3400MHz according to this :http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Phenom%20II%20X4%20960T%20Black%20Edition%20-%20HD96ZTWFK4DGR.html
As for the memory.. I think it's because the memory controller downclocks them to a supported speed. Someone please correct me if I am wrong here.









Btw, new stable F5 BIOS for the UD3 is up now. http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894&dl=1#bios


----------



## mystikalrush

Nice new official BIOS!


----------



## kzone75

For some reason I am now running at 4.1GHz with only 1.392V.. Stable for games even.







This motherboard surprises me every day..


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;15338656*
> Nice new official BIOS!


Have you tested? how is it going?


----------



## mxthunder

Has anyone tried the final release of the F6 bios for the UD7?

I want my LLC!!


----------



## tw33k

I've got it but not gonna flash it til I upgrade my chip (either 8120 or 1090T)


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15339842*
> Has anyone tried the final release of the F6 bios for the UD7?
> 
> I want my LLC!!


I think we need to wait for revision Gx to get LLC.


----------



## Krahe

I queried Gigabyte if using F6e was ok, and if a new Bios for FX8150 was going to be released, looks like F6 is a downgrade from the E version.









"Since F6e is not available on our website, if you want to update FX-8150 CPU, we suggest you downgrade your BIOS to the latest version (F6 version) in our website."


----------



## Maich

Has anyone noticed that the system smart fan control bios option only applies to SYS_FAN1?







or did i do something wrong?


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15339897*
> I think we need to wait for revision Gx to get LLC.


if you read Sins bulldozer OC guide, he is using a 1.0 rev UD7 with a special BIOS that had LLC options... my mouth was watering...


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;15338823*
> Have you tested? how is it going?


I will test it out tonight when my 8150 comes in.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


----------



## Particle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;15338015*
> Does the UD3 have this type of issue?


Yes, it does. I said so on the same page you asked. heh


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystikalrush;15340800*
> I will test it out tonight when my 8150 comes in.
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I though you'll test it with that phenom x4 that you have.


----------



## bajer29

I've seen less v-droop conversations... Has someone found a workaround, new BIOS, or has this just become old news? I was testing my 1100T on the UD5 at 4.3 stable with no major fluctuation in Voltage with F5 BIOS. Didn't keep it long because I am still using the stock heatsync that came with my CPU.


----------



## nukedukem86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29;15341872*
> I've seen less v-droop conversations... Has someone found a workaround, new BIOS, or has this just become old news? I was testing my 1100T on the UD5 at 4.3 stable with no major fluctuation in Voltage with F5 BIOS. Didn't keep it long because I am still using the stock heatsync that came with my CPU.


Same old vdroop in F6. Until we get LLC I don't see it getting any more manageable. at 4.0ghz I have to set it to 1.5v in the bios. That gives me 1.536 at idle and 1.456 at load. I use C&Q to offset the idle voltage.


----------



## AgeOfDarkness94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15338588*
> Welcome to OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually the default MHz for 960T is 3000, turbo is 3400MHz according to this :http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/K10/AMD-Phenom%20II%20X4%20960T%20Black%20Edition%20-%20HD96ZTWFK4DGR.html
> As for the memory.. I think it's because the memory controller downclocks them to a supported speed. Someone please correct me if I am wrong here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, new stable F5 BIOS for the UD3 is up now. http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894&dl=1#bios


Thanks for the links! I had no idea a new bios had been officially released. Running the F5 now to test stability.
+rep


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nukedukem86;15343052*
> Same old vdroop in F6. Until we get LLC I don't see it getting any more manageable. at 4.0ghz I have to set it to 1.5v in the bios. That gives me 1.536 at idle and 1.456 at load. I use C&Q to offset the idle voltage.


Thanks, I guess I'll just keep everything at stock for now and forget the after market CPU heatsync for the time being.


----------



## bicen

I have the UD5 using F6D bios.

Stable @ 4.1ghz (20.5 x 200) w/ 1.55v
Stable @ 4ghz (20 x 200) w/ 1.475v

P.S. bajer29 I attend class at U of Akron :]


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15340537*
> if you read Sins bulldozer OC guide, he is using a 1.0 rev UD7 with a special BIOS that had LLC options... my mouth was watering...


I know.


----------



## Particle

I tried the new F5 BIOS for the UD3 over lunch today. No joy versus F4 or the weekend's F5B when it comes to throttling. It still happens.


----------



## AgeOfDarkness94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle;15344415*
> I tried the new F5 BIOS for the UD3 over lunch today. No joy versus F4 or the weekend's F5B when it comes to throttling. It still happens.


Have you tried disabling the AMD cool and quiet feature? It in "advanced BIOS options." My CPU and Voltage settings would throttle up and down with it on depending on what I was doing. After disabling it, my CPU clock and Voltage stay constant.


----------



## Particle

Indeed I have. I've disabled all of the following yet it persists:
- AMD C1E Support
- AMD C6 Support
- AMD K8 Cool&Quiet Control
- CPU Unlock
- Hardware Thermal Control
- Core Performance Boost
- Turbo CPB


----------



## AgeOfDarkness94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle;15346335*
> Indeed I have. I've disabled all of the following yet it persists:
> - AMD C1E Support
> - AMD C6 Support
> - AMD K8 Cool&Quiet Control
> - CPU Unlock
> - Hardware Thermal Control
> - Core Performance Boost
> - Turbo CPB


Hmm... That is quite peculiar indeed. Perhaps you should send in the board via RMA?


----------



## Particle

I'm sure the hardware is fine, it must just be a firmware flitch. That being said, I am pretty close to ordering another board, perhaps an ASRock 990FX Extreme4. They seem to be working well with BD and are inexpensive enough to serve as a bench machine.


----------



## MadGoat

Weird... Updated to F5... and windows reinstalled almost all my junk...

Whats that about?

Working great so far however. going to see if I can eek more out of this proc with this new bios (since i upgraded from F3b)


----------



## Wenty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle;15344415*
> I tried the new F5 BIOS for the UD3 over lunch today. No joy versus F4 or the weekend's F5B when it comes to throttling. It still happens.


I have a ASUS board that does this if the MOSFET get to hot..... Try putting a fan over them and see if it still does it or maybe the heat sink is not on very good.

Might work.

I just ordered this Gigabyte board and have a 1055T to put in it.


----------



## MadGoat

Whoa awesome... lowered my cpu voltage by .050, tightened my memory timings, dropped full load temp by 5c and total load wattage dropped by 43w.

So far I love this F5 bios...

Edit: Ooo, and my G510 is now recognized by the bios... woot! Supa Sweet


----------



## chris-br

Add me, thanks

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2051734


----------



## amdgig

O


----------



## mystikalrush

Alrighty got my 8150, loving it so far!


----------



## vinton13

For the UD7 owners...how is this board with headphones such as the RX-700?
Or should I just use my Xonar D1?
I haven't got it yet. But I will tomorrow.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


For the UD7 owners...how is this board with headphones such as the RX-700?
Or should I just use my Xonar D1?
I haven't got it yet. But I will tomorrow.


According to manufacturer website your headphones have an impedance of 48 ohms (if they are the Victor or JVC ones)... so i believe you will be on the limit of a integrated audio chip can deliver... yeah it will sound nice.

however... the Xonar D1 (or DX wich is the PCI-e version) integrates a headphone amp (little but very useful) It will be very more able to drive those headphone much better... with better sound and improving soundstage (besides... it will deliver clear sound by filtering the electromagnetic interference that is a very comon symptom on integrated motherboard sound chips). You will enjoy more using the Xonar.









Get the Xonar and be happy


----------



## Garanthor

I was just about to RMA my board (waiting on a number from Gigabyte) when I noticed the full F6 is out already for the UD5. To go from F5 to F6 in such a short time span seems very suspicious. Somthing serious must have been wrong with the F5 to revise it so soon. I'm going to re-install my board and flash the BIOS to F6. If it works then I'll have my answer, if not I'll just continue with the RMA.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

So suddenly my Samsung F3 1TB drive is working... My SSD died so I needed to re-install windows on a different drive. Downloaded all the drivers for the board again (note, I haven't changed the BIOS) and plugged in the drive in prep for flashing the firmware, but it just showed up! So I'm guessing Gigabyte has provided support in their drivers for this HDD now?! Regardless, I'm just happy to be using this drive again!


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey;15356822*
> So suddenly my Samsung F3 1TB drive is working... My SSD died so I needed to re-install windows on a different drive. Downloaded all the drivers for the board again (note, I haven't changed the BIOS) and plugged in the drive in prep for flashing the firmware, but it just showed up! So I'm guessing Gigabyte has provided support in their drivers for this HDD now?! Regardless, I'm just happy to be using this drive again!


Very nice!







Maybe the Samsung F3 just didn't like your SSD.


----------



## MadGoat

Well, I hope this isn't a sign of something worse...

everything since F5 has been great. Except, I've been experiencing some off hard drive activity. I upgraded my F3's firmware when spidermonkey first started having issue and it was found that there was a firmware update to address amd chipset compatibility issues.

My worry is maybe now the F5 bios contains "fixes" that interfere with the firmware update on the F3 drives...

Time will tell. But so far after a deep check disc scan and some defrag, things seem to have mellowed out...


----------



## vinton13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*


According to manufacturer website your headphones have an impedance of 48 ohms (if they are the Victor or JVC ones)... so i believe you will be on the limit of a integrated audio chip can deliver... yeah it will sound nice.

however... the Xonar D1 (or DX wich is the PCI-e version) integrates a headphone amp (little but very useful) It will be very more able to drive those headphone much better... with better sound and improving soundstage (besides... it will deliver clear sound by filtering the electromagnetic interference that is a very comon symptom on integrated motherboard sound chips). You will enjoy more using the Xonar.









Get the Xonar and be happy










Thank you.


----------



## Evil Penguin

UD5 and UD7 users need LLC very badly.








My 8120 can't overclock for crap because of the vdrop.


----------



## arsenal553

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*


UD5 and UD7 users need LLC very badly.








My 8120 can't overclock for crap because of the vdrop.


Holy crap are you seriously telling me that vBoost and Vdroop are just as bad with bulldozer as it was with phenoms?


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arsenal553*


Holy crap are you seriously telling me that vBoost and Vdroop are just as bad with bulldozer as it was with phenoms?


That's exactly it. 
GB has to implement LLC and the APM switch or else...


----------



## michintom

Quote:



Originally Posted by *mystikalrush*


Alrighty got my 8150, loving it so far!


What bios are you using?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *michintom*


What bios are you using?










He is using F5 bios.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15363144*
> That's exactly it.
> GB has to implement LLC and the APM switch or else...


we should climb all over Sin and get him to give us that special BIOS he has.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15366286*
> we should climb all over Sin and get him to give us that special BIOS he has.


Not gonna happen. ?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## amdgig

R


----------



## vinton13

So wait...I'm getting my board in the next few hours and I'm hearing about vdroop issues...
So if I had my chip at 3.7ghz @ 1.44v with a old M4A77D motherboard, I would need to use more volts with this motherboard?


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13;15366669*
> So wait...I'm getting my board in the next few hours and I'm hearing about vdroop issues...
> So if I had my chip at 3.7ghz @ 1.44v with a old M4A77D motherboard, I would need to use more volts with this motherboard?


You would need to add .1v on top of your current voltage at least.
One of the problems is that the vdrop is very inconsistent.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15357013*
> Very nice!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe the Samsung F3 just didn't like your SSD.


Lol if only that was it!! (I've used them both together before and they've worked fine







) Although I still need a new BIOS. I'm on F3G atm and my 4GHZ OC isn't stable on it, and it was on the F2 BIOS


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Lol if only that was it!! (I've used them both together before and they've worked fine







) Although I still need a new BIOS. I'm on F3G atm and my 4GHZ OC isn't stable on it, and it was on the F2 BIOS










Even disabling core unlock option?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Lol if only that was it!! (I've used them both together before and they've worked fine







) Although I still need a new BIOS. I'm on F3G atm and my 4GHZ OC isn't stable on it, and it was on the F2 BIOS











hmmm,

I'm having some really odd issues now with F5 bios... F3b was great for my overclock and ran smooth except for the bios not seening my g510 issue and sleep problems... F5 fix those.

But now, I get this crazy Windows explorer crash all the time, the OS at times seems unresponsive.... click on something and i get the "thinking" swirl... but nothing ever happens...

I reloaded windows last night just too rule out drivers, bad installs and what not (since I've had this board I've installed and uninstalled more drivers than necessary...)

Ugh... I don't know...


----------



## Vesku

Shot in the dark, but try updating to latest Realtek audio drivers from Realtek's website. My unlocked x2 was having system hangs, sound would go haywire as the hang happened. Updated to latest drivers and now running great for 3 days 24/7. F5 bios and using a Samsung F3 1TB as main hdd.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spiderm0nkey*


Lol if only that was it!! (I've used them both together before and they've worked fine







) Although I still need a new BIOS. I'm on F3G atm and my 4GHZ OC isn't stable on it, and it was on the F2 BIOS










It sucks that your SSD died on you. What happened to it? Did the Samsung kill it?







It's nice that the HDD is back up and running, though.








Go grab the F5 BIOS here: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/pro...3894&dl=1#bios For some reason my overclock gets more stable for every new BIOS. 4.1GHz stable at 1.396V right now.







Even with the tiny vdroop.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Sorry been away for a couple of weeks and really don't have time to read through a bunch of posts. Does anyone have a BD chip yet, and if so how is it working with these boards?


----------



## bicen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *WeirdHarold*


Sorry been away for a couple of weeks and really don't have time to read through a bunch of posts. Does anyone have a BD chip yet, and if so how is it working with these boards?


A couple pages back there was a complaint about vdroop even with BD on the 8120, another said that they really liked their 8150. I really don't know at this point.

http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...l#post15362649


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadGoat*


hmmm,

I'm having some really odd issues now with F5 bios... F3b was great for my overclock and ran smooth except for the bios not seening my g510 issue and sleep problems... F5 fix those.

But now, I get this crazy Windows explorer crash all the time, the OS at times seems unresponsive.... click on something and i get the "thinking" swirl... but nothing ever happens...

I reloaded windows last night just too rule out drivers, bad installs and what not (since I've had this board I've installed and uninstalled more drivers than necessary...)

Ugh... I don't know...


My system is crashing like crazy. 
BSOD is blaming my video cards, but I don't think the GPUs are to blame. 
Both cards seem to work fine on other systems after some more thorough testing.

*sigh*

BTW, I asked GB about the whole LLC thing on the UD7.
Here's their response:
_Dear Customer,

I'm sorry, but LLC is not supported on the GA-990FXA-UD7 Rev 1.0.

Thank you for choosing Gigabyte products_

Hopefully they just forgot to put "currently" before "supported". 
If this motherboard doesn't get LLC...
Ohhh boy...


----------



## bicen

has anyone tried this for the UD5?

Quote:



SLIC: Gigabyte 2.1
SLP: Gigabyte
Cert: Gigabyte 
Modded with AWARD SLIC Mod 1.52
Mod method: SSv3

Modified Bios:
GA-990FXA-UD5_F5b-beta_Gig21_SSv3.zip (Cert. Included)
http://www.sendspace.com/file/mbal7u

Flash from DOS with Gigabyte recommended Flash Utility.
Confirmed Working by Lattman.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bicen*


has anyone tried this for the UD5?


What does it do?


----------



## bicen

I am not really sure, I've just noticed in a couple user system spec it shows that they have the bios with SLIC mod. I googled it and found a site that lists all of the modded bioses using this method and came across this. Figured asking about it here would be my best bet, couldn't find any threads on it.


----------



## Benz

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*


What does it do?


More likely why do we need it, and the answer is Windows Activation.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*


My system is crashing like crazy. 
BSOD is blaming my video cards, but I don't think the GPUs are to blame. 
Both cards seem to work fine on other systems after some more thorough testing.

*sigh*

BTW, I asked GB about the whole LLC thing on the UD7.
Here's their response:
_Dear Customer,

I'm sorry, but LLC is not supported on the GA-990FXA-UD7 Rev 1.0.

Thank you for choosing Gigabyte products_

Hopefully they just forgot to put "currently" before "supported". 
If this motherboard doesn't get LLC...
Ohhh boy...


yeah I'm getting a variety of crashes... random exe's will stop for no reason... windows explorer will sometimes just stop wanting to do just about anything... (deleting a file or copying a file via right click can cause it to flip out sometimes)... Then im getting a random BSOD with IRQ_NOT_LESS_THAN_OR_EQUAL...

Ugh, last time I had IRQ problems, I was running a K6-2 500 super socket 7 with windows 98se...

I'd really rather not revisit those times....









Here is the funny thing... Its completely random. Cant reproduce anything with consistency. Which makes me think Hardware (bios, OC etc...).

But I reloaded windows and slowly installed drivers and software one by one... No problems at all! Then somewhere around installing FireFox and Flash things started screwing up...

BUT! Even if I don't touch the browser or flash, it will flip out... only other thing i have loaded that i can suspect is EA's Origin. (maybe it uses flash?)

grrrr...


----------



## bicen

Ooooo, I didn't know. Was hoping it was for vdroop haha.


----------



## el gappo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MadGoat*


yeah I'm getting a variety of crashes... random exe's will stop for no reason... windows explorer will sometimes just stop wanting to do just about anything... (deleting a file or copying a file via right click can cause it to flip out sometimes)... Then im getting a random BSOD with IRQ_NOT_LESS_THAN_OR_EQUAL...

Ugh, last time I had IRQ problems, I was running a K6-2 500 super socket 7 with windows 98se...

I'd really rather not revisit those times....









Here is the funny thing... Its completely random. Cant reproduce anything with consistency. Which makes me think Hardware (bios, OC etc...).

But I reloaded windows and slowly installed drivers and software one by one... No problems at all! Then somewhere around installing FireFox and Flash things started screwing up...

BUT! Even if I don't touch the browser or flash, it will flip out... only other thing i have loaded that i can suspect is EA's Origin. (maybe it uses flash?)

grrrr...


Sounds like some unstable ram to me mate.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *bicen*


ooooo, i didn't know. Was hoping it was for vdroop haha.


Where you talking about me?









@MadGoat

Did you clear the cmos after "rebooting from BIOS succesful flash"? I know it souds silly but did you do it? if not... try clear it now and test.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *el gappo*


Sounds like some unstable ram to me mate.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*


Where you talking about me?









@MadGoat

Did you clear the cmos after "rebooting from BIOS succesful flash"? I know it souds silly but did you do it? if not... try clear it now and test.


Ya know what...

I don't know for sure if i did clear cmos or not... However. I went ahead and re-flashed F5 and had q-flash clear the DMI pool this time and cleared the CMOS as well.

I think that might have fix the BSOD issue... But im still enduring these system slow downs and hangs that are just about making me loose my mind.

Soo, this is where I'm at right now...









Load voltages: 
Cpu - 1.488 @ 4.125ghz
Memory - 1.62 (Board wont let me push higher) @ 1666 8.8.8.24.34 2 t
Cpu NB - 1.35 @ 3ghz
HT - 1.2 @ 2250mhz

If ya'll got some suggestions... I'd welcome them with an open mind!









(BTW heats not an issue anywhere)

(ooo, and I'm prime stable...)


----------



## Evil Penguin

@MadGoat

Are you getting any graphical errors?
I'm getting clock interrupts with my PC. 
UD7 and 8120 paired. 
http://scalibq.wordpress.com/2011/10...et-even-worse/


----------



## el gappo

Prime *Blend* stable? Small FFT's don't count


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*


@MadGoat

Are you getting any graphical errors?
I'm getting clock interrupts with my PC. 
UD7 and 8120 paired. 
http://scalibq.wordpress.com/2011/10...et-even-worse/



Quote:



Originally Posted by *el gappo*


Prime *Blend* stable? Small FFT's don't count










*
Evil*: I was Getting those BSOD's as well... but those normally only happen when I'm actually doing something taxing.. (Gaming or encoding...) The IRQ BSOD's would happen anytime anywhere...

*El Gappo*: Blend indeed sir, I always test on blend.

I've been tweaking around... I up'ed My tRc rate to 41 (didn't notice it was at the SPD 1333 rating still), Jumped my NB voltage to 1.375v and kicked my HT volts to 1.250v.

Soooo far..... Prime stable (was before as well however), I've been able to finish 2 rounds of BC2 (wasn't able before..) and I haven't had any random programs puke on me yet... *Run's to knock on wood*...









This is what it looks like now:

Load voltages:
Cpu - 1.488v @ 4.125ghz
Memory - 1.62v @ 1666 8.8.8.24.*41* 2 t
Cpu NB - 1.3*75*v @ 3ghz
HT - 1.2*5*v @ 2250mhz

whatdoya think El Gappo? Evil? Volt look Ight?

Still don't get way F3b was happy with less but F5 wants me to jack my volts up. (sucks too cuz I was getting some sweet temps)


----------



## vinton13

Funny thing is happening guys.
I got my UD7 today.
Set it up. Everything works perfectly.
But when I set it to AHCI in the BIOS, I get BSoD when it's booting.
What's wrong here?


----------



## Rebelord

Vinton13: Were you running your drives in ACHI before swapping to the UD7? Or fresh install? Have you tried running the Win7 CD in recovery mode to possibly re write MBR?


----------



## vinton13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rebelord*


Vinton13: Were you running your drives in ACHI before swapping to the UD7? Or fresh install? Have you tried running the Win7 CD in recovery mode to possibly re write MBR?


Yes, I was running it on AHCI before on another board.
I formatted the drive though.


----------



## spiderm0nkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;15370473*
> Even disabling core unlock option?


Not sure sorry, haven't actually seen that option! (haven't been looking for it though either haha)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15370857*
> hmmm,
> 
> I'm having some really odd issues now with F5 bios... F3b was great for my overclock and ran smooth except for the bios not seening my g510 issue and sleep problems... F5 fix those.
> 
> But now, I get this crazy Windows explorer crash all the time, the OS at times seems unresponsive.... click on something and i get the "thinking" swirl... but nothing ever happens...
> 
> I reloaded windows last night just too rule out drivers, bad installs and what not (since I've had this board I've installed and uninstalled more drivers than necessary...)
> 
> Ugh... I don't know...


That doesn't sound good at all. I guess all you can try is rolling back to a slightly older BIOS to see if that makes any difference with the crashes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15371147*
> It sucks that your SSD died on you. What happened to it? Did the Samsung kill it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's nice that the HDD is back up and running, though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Go grab the F5 BIOS here: http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894&dl=1#bios For some reason my overclock gets more stable for every new BIOS. 4.1GHz stable at 1.396V right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the tiny vdroop.


They're just crap drives. I had 2 initially in RAID 0 and one died so I sent it back and carried on using the other one. Then it died 2 days later. It wouldn't be picked up in any computer by the BIOS. So I got 2 replacement drives after waiting 2 months and then they both died the same way, except this time I had a new motherboard, power supply and processor, so it was certainly not my system killing the drives. Regardless I'm absolutely stoked to have this drive back online as it is the drive with all my movies, music and tv shows!! I'll give the F5 BIOS a try too thanks!


----------



## Rebelord

Ok, so its a fresh install after the board swap? Were you in ACHI mode before the install? or did you set it after? If after, then boot to the recovery and have Win7 pretty much auto fix its boot sector.
Also, try swapping Sata ports, cables.


----------



## vinton13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;15376032*
> Ok, so its a fresh install after the board swap? Were you in ACHI mode before the install? or did you set it after? If after, then boot to the recovery and have Win7 pretty much auto fix its boot sector.


Yes. Fresh install after the board swap.
I set it AHCI after the install.
And thanks. I will try that tomorrow.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13;15376048*
> *I set it AHCI after the install.*


That'll do it. Gotta set before install. Otherwise, reset to IDE, do the reg fix for ACHI, then have to use recovery. I'll get you the walk through link in a sec..

Change from IDE to AHCI Mode after Windows 7 Installation

AHCI stand for Advance Host Controller Interface. AHCI is a hardware mechanism that allows software to communicate with Serial ATA (SATA) devices (such as host bus adapters) that are designed to offer features not offered by Parallel ATA (PATA) controllers, such as:

Hot-Plugging and Native Command Queuing (NCQ) -might improve computer/system/hard disk responsiveness, especially in multi-tasking environment

There is one way to fix this, although you need to have knowledge of registry editing. The detailed steps from Microsoft website are as follows:

(1) Exit all Windows-based programs.

(2) Press [Win] + R or take the RUN option from the start menu.

(3) Now type regedit there and press Enter Key to open up the Registry Editor Window. (If you receive the User Account Control dialog box, click Continue.)

(4) Locate and then click the following registry subkey:

HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Servic es\msahci

(5) In the right pane, right-click Start in the Name column, and then click Modify.










(6) In the Value data box, type 0 [3 is default], and then click OK.










(7) On the File menu, click Exit to close Registry Editor.

(8) Restart your computer

(9) Go to BIOS and enable AHCI, Save & Reboot

(10) Another restart will be required to finish the driver installation.

Now you are ready to enter the bios and Work some real magic.

(1) Check the board is in AHCI mode, if no option is available there is nothing you can do.

(2) Check if S1 and S3 sleep are supported in bios, I usually set S1 but S3 should be ok also....if they are not in bios there is nothing you can do

(3) Check ACPI 2.0 is in bios and enabled, if its not in bios there is nothing you can do.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13;15375893*
> Funny thing is happening guys.
> I got my UD7 today.
> Set it up. Everything works perfectly.
> But when I set it to AHCI in the BIOS, I get BSoD when it's booting.
> What's wrong here?


Windows is configured to use IDE, AHCI, or RAID when it is first installed. Thus when the type of storage control is changed within the BIOS, windows flips out and asks you to join the BSOD cult of Narnia...

But you can however (using your current windows setup utilizing the IDE parameter in your bios) enable windows to use AHCI without reinstalling:

Take a look here for more info

To summarize:

"You start with step 1 while you are still in Windows in IDE mode.

Run the Registry Editor (regedit.exe)
Navigate to Registry Key: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\Msahci
Set the "Start" value to 0 (zero)
Navigate to Registry Key: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Services\Pciide
Set the "Start" value to 0 (zero)
Shut down
Start up again, but before Windows boots go into the BIOS configuration screens and change the disk mode to "AHCI". Save the new BIOS configuration and restart so that Windows boots.

When Windows starts, it will detect the change, load new disk drivers, and do one more reboot to start up with them.

If for any reason the above steps should fail, simply change back to IDE mode in the BIOS."


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15372157*
> yeah I'm getting a variety of crashes... random exe's will stop for no reason... windows explorer will sometimes just stop wanting to do just about anything... (deleting a file or copying a file via right click can cause it to flip out sometimes)... Then im getting a random BSOD with IRQ_NOT_LESS_THAN_OR_EQUAL...
> 
> Ugh, last time I had IRQ problems, I was running a K6-2 500 super socket 7 with windows 98se...
> 
> I'd really rather not revisit those times....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the funny thing... Its completely random. Cant reproduce anything with consistency. Which makes me think Hardware (bios, OC etc...).
> 
> But I reloaded windows and slowly installed drivers and software one by one... No problems at all! Then somewhere around installing FireFox and Flash things started screwing up...
> 
> BUT! Even if I don't touch the browser or flash, it will flip out... only other thing i have loaded that i can suspect is EA's Origin. (maybe it uses flash?)
> 
> grrrr...


Sounds exactly like my case. I'm in the process of doing an RMA on the motherboard which seems to be the root cause of all these problems.


----------



## cr1st1

Hey guys, can anyone help me with what TMPIN2 in HWMonitor is for? I read somewhere that is for the NB. I am getting around 61 degrees in my OC sessions. Is it too much for it?

thanks


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Hello guys. Last night I finished adding some upgrade to my PC including my Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 mobo. Install was easy as pie great board! I can add a pic of the board in my sig rig if need be


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr1st1;15380815*
> Hey guys, can anyone help me with what TMPIN2 in HWMonitor is for? I read somewhere that is for the NB. I am getting around 61 degrees in my OC sessions. Is it too much for it?
> 
> thanks


cr1st1, I have the EK waterblock for this board and I've done extensive stress testing to determine what the TMPIN2 sensor is for. From what I've found it appears to be faulty in reporting actual temperatures. I used a laser thermometer to try and figure out the corresponding area for that sensor and that wasn't any. If you look online you'll find plenty of others that are also saying that this sensor reports incorrect temperatures. My board is water cooled and I get the same temperatures that you mentioned. If I were you I would just ignore it.


----------



## cr1st1

Ok, thanks. Is there another(better) program to monitor the temps? I'm also using Aida/ET6, and they both show the temps that are in HWMonitor, except for the TMPIN2, which doesn't match anything in the other apps.

Thx.


----------



## boostinsteve

Hey guys, just got my UD3 yesterday, along with a 1090T and some corsair ram. Had to make the jump to ddr3 as my IMC on my 940 was starting to show its age, and I had to loosen timings every couple of months to let it keep up.

Have only played around with a few things so far, but I like what I am seeing so far. Fairly stable voltage, and good Overclocking capability. I want to get to at least 4GHZ, then start tightening up the ram. First venture with DDR3


----------



## boostinsteve

Hey guys, just got my UD3 yesterday, along with a 1090T and some corsair ram. Had to make the jump to ddr3 as my IMC on my 940 was starting to show its age, and I had to loosen timings every couple of months to let it keep up.

Have only played around with a few things so far, but I like what I am seeing so far. Fairly stable voltage, and good Overclocking capability. I want to get to at least 4GHZ, then start tightening up the ram. First venture with DDR3

Have no idea why it double posted. If a mod sees this, can you erase one of these. Thanks


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;15380575*
> Sounds exactly like my case. I'm in the process of doing an RMA on the motherboard which seems to be the root cause of all these problems.


Well, I might be right there with ya.

I've loved the board all the way up until now... seems everything on the F5 bios just screwed the pooch. Last bios was F3b and the little bugger ran great. (with a few exceptions to not seeing my keyboard at post, and a little thing here and there).

Now I'm unstable in windows no matter what I do. I put everything to stock... still unstable. So much so, that crash after crash corrupted my raid array.

Tried to reload windows... I cant get windows to validate and the screen goes black, things start crashing...

Then I tried a prior backup from my Home Server. NOPE! Damn ethernet controller is recognized but the damn thing wont initialize so it can find my server!

So I'm sitting here growing angrier by the moment....

OH, and just to make sure my other components are solid... I did a full surface scan on both of my drives (2.5hrs a piece), and I ran memtest for over 7 hours without one hiccup.

Yup, I'm pissed.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15385246*
> Well, I might be right there with ya.
> 
> I've loved the board all the way up until now... seems everything on the F5 bios just screwed the pooch. Last bios was F3b and the little bugger ran great. (with a few exceptions to not seeing my keyboard at post, and a little thing here and there).
> 
> Now I'm unstable in windows no matter what I do. I put everything to stock... still unstable. So much so, that crash after crash corrupted my raid array.
> 
> Tried to reload windows... I cant get windows to validate and the screen goes black, things start crashing...
> 
> Then I tried a prior backup from my Home Server. NOPE! Damn ethernet controller is recognized but the damn thing wont initialize so it can find my server!
> 
> So I'm sitting here growing angrier by the moment....
> 
> OH, and just to make sure my other components are solid... I did a full surface scan on both of my drives (2.5hrs a piece), and I ran memtest for over 7 hours without one hiccup.
> 
> Yup, I'm pissed.


Haven't read all your posts as I've been busy, but do you have any other RAM to try? I had similar problems on another motherboard. Ran memtest and it said that everything was peachy. Tried different RAM and the problems where gone.
On the UD3 I only get IRQ_NOT_LESS_THAN_OR_EQUAL if I attempt to go above 2600MHz on the CPU/NB. Have had very few BSODs with this mobo. Not braggin', just sayin'.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15385668*
> Haven't read all your posts as I've been busy, but do you have any other RAM to try? I had similar problems on another motherboard. Ran memtest and it said that everything was peachy. Tried different RAM and the problems where gone.
> On the UD3 I only get IRQ_NOT_LESS_THAN_OR_EQUAL if I attempt to go above 2600MHz on the CPU/NB. Have had very few BSODs with this mobo. Not braggin', just sayin'.


I wish i had some extra memory to try.

However, at this point it really doesn't matter as i cant even get windows to load now (let alone activate). keeps giving me errors about it not being able to create a system partition.

I tell ya, I'm about over this. to go from dead stable and happy to this is redick...


----------



## toddville393

I have the Rev 1.0 version of the UD3 and just ordered my FX-8150 the other day. Now there's 5 BIOS updates for the REV 1.0 (F1-F5). My question is do I need to flash each one in succession or just flash it with F5?


----------



## solar0987

Im out the club now :{
But heres my old 990 fxa ud5 in all its glory.
























I get it finally done minus processor and well bulldozer wasn't what i was hoping it would be. Sold amd board got a Intel ud5. So im still on a gigabyte board








Case has a 360 push/pull and a 240 internally push pull also


----------



## Garanthor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15385246*
> Well, I might be right there with ya.
> 
> I've loved the board all the way up until now... seems everything on the F5 bios just screwed the pooch. Last bios was F3b and the little bugger ran great. (with a few exceptions to not seeing my keyboard at post, and a little thing here and there).
> 
> Now I'm unstable in windows no matter what I do. I put everything to stock... still unstable. So much so, that crash after crash corrupted my raid array.
> 
> Tried to reload windows... I cant get windows to validate and the screen goes black, things start crashing...
> 
> Then I tried a prior backup from my Home Server. NOPE! Damn ethernet controller is recognized but the damn thing wont initialize so it can find my server!
> 
> So I'm sitting here growing angrier by the moment....
> 
> OH, and just to make sure my other components are solid... I did a full surface scan on both of my drives (2.5hrs a piece), and I ran memtest for over 7 hours without one hiccup.
> 
> Yup, I'm pissed.


Well time for an interesting update. I just got RMA number but before I packed it all up, I wanted to try all the suggestions here plus load the F6 to see what would happen. So I cleared the CMOS, installed F6 from memory stick (cleared DMI pool), formatted my new SSD, set BIOS to AHCI BEFORE new windows install, installed Win 7 64 bit, updated everything and ta-da....board works like a champ again. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions....one of them did the trick and saved me from doing an unnecessary RMA







Now if I can recover the data from my old SSD life will be good.

So what has this taught me? I can only conclude that the old F5 BIOS was at least partly to blame for all my previous troubles. Nothing else would explain all the odd symptoms I was having (BIOS and motherboard problems look very similar). For all you UD5 owners upgrade to the F6 BIOS soon before your system starts crashing like mine did.


----------



## Evil Penguin

UD7 and FX 8120 paired together...
Be afraid, be *very* afraid.

Personally, I'm very pissed off right now.
Another 10 hours until I can chat with AMD.


----------



## vinton13

Al right guys the board works.

Quick question though...
Should Virtualization be enabled?
And where do I find the ACPI 2 so I can enable it?


----------



## amdgig

S


----------



## toddville393

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15392722*
> Update with the latest as that supercedes all .


cool thanks


----------



## vinton13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15389914*
> UD7 and FX 8120 paired together...
> Be afraid, be *very* afraid.
> 
> Personally, I'm very pissed off right now.
> Another 10 hours until I can chat with AMD.


Why? What's wrong?


----------



## major1337

sry for the maybe stupid question.

i have a realy strange problem but i dont have a clue if its possible...
since i have bought my GA-990FXA-UD3 i have problems to sync my internet.
i dont know if its possible but could it be that the sync problems are about the mainboard??? could a mainboard interrupt the router so the router have sync problems?
my internet brakes down at about 11pm and than every 10 minuts.

i hope you understand what i mean, sry for my poor english.


----------



## cr1st1

Hy guys, I am having a real problem with this mobo, or maybe not, i don't really know.
If I put a memory stick in slot 3 it runs at 200Mhz(shown by DOS memtest or AIDA64).
If I put both of them in slots 1-3 same issue, if I put them in 4-2 something strange - the memory bandwidth is 500Mb/s smaller.

I was running the latest BIOS - F6, now I downgraded to F5 and even F4 and still the same problem.

Anyone else had these issues?
I understood that it might be the memory, or the mobo, or the cpu IMC.

Any ideas?

Thanks


----------



## bicen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15374543*
> Ya know what...
> 
> I don't know for sure if i did clear cmos or not... However. I went ahead and re-flashed F5 and had q-flash clear the DMI pool this time and cleared the CMOS as well.
> 
> I think that might have fix the BSOD issue... But im still enduring these system slow downs and hangs that are just about making me loose my mind.
> 
> Soo, this is where I'm at right now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Load voltages:
> Cpu - 1.488 @ 4.125ghz
> Memory - 1.62 (Board wont let me push higher) @ 1666 8.8.8.24.34 2 t
> Cpu NB - 1.35 @ 3ghz
> HT - 1.2 @ 2250mhz
> 
> If ya'll got some suggestions... I'd welcome them with an open mind!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (BTW heats not an issue anywhere)
> 
> (ooo, and I'm prime stable...)


Try lowering the voltage on your memory, I have mine set to 1.5v @ 1680Mhz. My memory says to run at 1.65v and on the Kingston website it says that AM3 voltage should be between 1.7 and 1.9 which is wrong! I lookeded in my mobo manual and it says to set it to 1.5v at 1600 with ddr3 in dual-channel. Give it a whirl, might fix your problems.


----------



## ebduncan

Hey guys. I just installed my 990fxa-ud3. Of coarse one of the first things i did was to update the bios to the f5 version. At bios only updated to f4, checked the website and noticed f5 was available as of the 13th or launch date of bulldozer, so i figured this bios was the way to go.

I am having issues with my memory, and AMD overdrive.

Memory is Mushkin ddr3 2000 blackline enhanced. But will not operate at any other speed other than ddr3-1333. The voltage for the memory is manually set to 1.65volts per specs. Every time i try and chance the memory speed manually in bios the board either fails to post, or gives me a prompt saying overclocking has failed. Which then i can return the bios and the memory speed is back to auto defaults. I noticed that the northbridge clock must match the hyper transport clock or must be lower. Not sure what this is about.

Fix mutipier issue, just had to turn off turbo core.

here is validation if that is needed to join the club
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2057792
Here are some cpuz screen shots if they help.


----------



## MadGoat

well, After much frustration and hair pulling... The UD3 lives again.

Came down to the RAID controller. (explains the odd hard drive activity) Simply put, DO NOT disable the "Sata Raid 5" Function in the bios. No driver will ever like you, and you'll never get a date to the prom...









I had Disabled the raid 5 function... And I was never able to use any AMD raid drivers for some reason. (that was the reason)

So I had to enable raid 5, find a ethernet and raid driver that WHS recovery liked... just so I could get any sloppy mess of a backup on my computer that had windows activated already. After that do a clean install over it with different drivers for raid.

So I know this all sounds trivial... (my first AMD chipset) But if you Didn't need to use raid drivers (if your running raid) during windows install... Think again...

But on the bright side! My drive speed has increased a LARGE amount! And I'm rock solid stable.


----------



## amdgig

THEIR


----------



## vinton13

Guys! My question. :S
Quote:


> Quick question though...
> Should Virtualization be enabled?
> And where do I find the ACPI 2 in the BIOS so I can enable it?


----------



## boostinsteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15398165*
> well, After much frustration and hair pulling... The UD3 lives again.
> 
> Came down to the RAID controller. (explains the odd hard drive activity) Simply put, DO NOT disable the "Sata Raid 5" Function in the bios. No driver will ever like you, and you'll never get a date to the prom...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had Disabled the raid 5 function... And I was never able to use any AMD raid drivers for some reason. (that was the reason)
> 
> So I had to enable raid 5, find a ethernet and raid driver that WHS recovery liked... just so I could get any sloppy mess of a backup on my computer that had windows activated already. After that do a clean install over it with different drivers for raid.
> 
> So I know this all sounds trivial... (my first AMD chipset) But if you Didn't need to use raid drivers (if your running raid) during windows install... Think again...
> 
> But on the bright side! My drive speed has increased a LARGE amount! And I'm rock solid stable.


I also noticed this. My system would always give me the failed system boot due to recent overclocking. This was even at stock speeds, and only when exiting bios, cold start, no problem. Right as soon as it was enabled, all problems went away, and now my raid 0 is much quicker also. Weird.

Anyways, anybody ever look at going active cooling on the NB? I now have mine at 2400, and want to look at better cooling before going much further. Maybe I will just add it to the loop......


----------



## boostinsteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13;15399082*
> Guys! My question. :S


My understanding is that virtualization is for when you are using virtual ports. It allows for better utilization of available resources when porting an OS into your current OS. Mine is disabled, and works just fine, but I never do said activity.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garanthor;15389237*
> Well time for an interesting update. I just got RMA number but before I packed it all up, I wanted to try all the suggestions here plus load the F6 to see what would happen. So I cleared the CMOS, installed F6 from memory stick (cleared DMI pool), formatted my new SSD, set BIOS to AHCI BEFORE new windows install, installed Win 7 64 bit, updated everything and ta-da....board works like a champ again. Thanks to everyone for your suggestions....one of them did the trick and saved me from doing an unnecessary RMA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I can recover the data from my old SSD life will be good.
> 
> So what has this taught me? I can only conclude that the old F5 BIOS was at least partly to blame for all my previous troubles. Nothing else would explain all the odd symptoms I was having (BIOS and motherboard problems look very similar). For all you UD5 owners upgrade to the F6 BIOS soon before your system starts crashing like mine did.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15398356*
> I'll have a look next time as i can not even recall seeing a raid 5 thingy there in the bios , and i been looking in there heaps these last few days playing about , but good one .
> 
> Unrelated but i to noticed a improvement on drive rates when i enabled AHCI in the bios for my single disc , i saw that idea on a previous post somewhere .
> 
> Same goes for HT link , seen some posts saying do not go over 2000mhz much , accidently put in 2400mhz as i was matching the 1600mhz ram speed with the cpu nb which is supposed to be around 800 x 3 =2400 , and gained from 11000 (rounded to 0's) to 13000 in memtest .
> 2 gains in one day!


Woot!

Yeah the Sata "raid 5" function I believe is greyed out until you enable the Main ports as RAID. (in IDE or AHCI it wont apply) What screwed me however was turning it off thinking, "I dont use Raid 5". (*Buzzer* WRONG)









It apparently enables and disables the hardware portion of the raid controller. So you can still setup and use a raid array... but windows will use its default SCSI RAID driver to access it. Which incidentally is not entirely compatible with the controller and is where I was seeing the crazy errors all over the place..... BUT! You can NOT use any AMD chipset RAID driver when the "Raid 5 option" is disabled in the bios. It will install and windows will allow it (Hardware ID's match)... But it will Bomb on start up. Hence why when trying to pre-load the driver during windows installation, crashes in the same fashion...

Moral of this story... If using raid, keep the "Raid 5 option" enabled! (wish gigabyte would use a different description for the option, there is obviously more to it than just "Raid 5")

But yeah I hear ya on the HT increase... I ramped my north bridge up to 2750mhz to help keep up with the 4+ghz oc, but I saw a noticeable gain in bumping the HT as well. (2250 right now). Most of the gain was noticeable in IO operations.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve;15399118*
> I also noticed this. My system would always give me the failed system boot due to recent overclocking. This was even at stock speeds, and only when exiting bios, cold start, no problem. Right as soon as it was enabled, all problems went away, and now my raid 0 is much quicker also. Weird.
> 
> Anyways, anybody ever look at going active cooling on the NB? I now have mine at 2400, and want to look at better cooling before going much further. Maybe I will just add it to the loop......


Yup yup... Strange indeed...

However,

Your north bridge you speak of is actually the "Memory controller". As such, it is located on the CPU die and enjoys the cooling comfort that your CPU cooler provides.







Hehe..

So yeah, you'll only see added heat to your CPU temp when OCing the NB.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Hey guys. I have a question or two about the UD3 board. do any of you know what TMPIN0, TMPIN1 and TMPIN2 in HWMonitor are monitoring? I would like to assume that they are being read faulty but my temps for the last 24 hours read as such:
TMPIN0 Current: 27c/80f min 16c/60f Max 87c/188f
TMPIN1 29c/86f 22c/71f 126c/258f
TPMIN2 40c/104f 16c/60f 115c/239f

What bothers me is the max temp. those are insane!!!! I have nothing overclocked at all. EVERYTHING is at stock clocks and volts. any clue as to what those sensors are trying to read would be great! Thank you guys.

Ok, I found out what the temp sensors are monitoring:

TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp

However I just DL'ed AMD overdrive to check some temps out, and it has my CPU Idleing at 39 to 40c. where are CPUID hardware monitor has my CPU core's idling at 28c...
Is anyone else getting odd temps from their UD3?


----------



## amdgig

OWN


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15400749*
> Catalyst also has cpu temp monitor , is your cooler seated properly and the ambiant?
> This has a temp monitor also , with a nice looking Gadget , r/click the sensor - load/temp/speed in OHM and pick add to Gadget , but on this board i had to add a "12" in the cpu sensor after unticking 'default' to get it to read correct (in parameters) .


Not worried about CPU temp....its the TMPIN0,1 and2 witch are for mobo,NB and CPU socket. My CPU temps are perfectly fine at around 28-29c while serfing the net. Max temp while gaming (BF2) for a few hours was 37c. those temps are fine. What has me worried is that CPUID HardWare Monitor has max temps of 87c,126c and 115c.


----------



## amdgig

ADGENDA !


----------



## amdgig

How about that , very clever aye


----------



## Rick Arter

My HWmonitor goes wacky after while on those temps after stressing for few hours.

Thing that gets me is I have been running coretemp/HWM for while and though those temps were correct. I just DLed AMD OD and according to it my temps on CPU cores are 10-12c higher.

Not surprised as I thought 45c loaded on smallFFTs with stock cooler and 3.6GHz 1.36v was a bit low. Looks like I have been running around 54-56c corrected using AOD.

Thanks for posting the info about what the TMPIN sensors were reading had a slight idea but wasn't 100% sure now I am.


----------



## Particle

I'm seeing quite a lot of vCore overshoot on the UD3. When set to 1.4375V, it hits about 1.505V under load. Is that about average?


----------



## ebduncan

I think I give up on my 990fxa-ud3.

I had high hopes for it, but it seems like its nothing more than a piece of junk when it comes to the AMD fx processor.

I have the cpu at 4.6ghz, but every time i go to run a benchmark it throttles down to 2.8ghz, and i have disabled all power saving features, c1e, cool and quiet, turned off turbo boost.

To make things worse i have a set of Mushkin DDR3 2000 9-11-9-27, which cannot go beyond ddr3 1600 with loose timing.

if i use amd overdrive, the second i apply settings, windows kicks out of aero.

I would suggest ANYONE who is looking at this board to go with a AMD FX processor you stay FAR FAR away. Unless well someone can help me solve these problems, i have tried to call gigabyte tech support, they are not being very helpful.
Bios verison is F5


----------



## Particle

You don't need to hit apply in AOD. Set your overclock in the BIOS, boot Windows, start AOD, turn on Turbo (hit the check box and click OK), turn off Turbo, and then close AOD. Don't ever apply the main settings window. Toggling AOD happens immediately upon clicking OK on the modal dialog that appears when you adjust Turbo settings. This disables the 14x throttling bug. A future BIOS should fix this to where it's no longer necessary. That being said, I agree that the UD3 isn't really ready for FX CPUs.


----------



## ebduncan

thanks particle

that worked. I am guessing i will have to do that every time i reboot huh?

and yes i agree the ud3 is not ready for FX cpu's. All we can do is wait for new bios. Now to figure out the memory part.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan;15401985*
> I think I give up on my 990fxa-ud3.
> 
> I had high hopes for it, but it seems like its nothing more than a piece of junk when it comes to the AMD fx processor.
> 
> I have the cpu at 4.6ghz, but every time i go to run a benchmark it throttles down to 2.8ghz, and i have disabled all power saving features, c1e, cool and quiet, turned off turbo boost.
> 
> To make things worse i have a set of Mushkin DDR3 2000 9-11-9-27, which cannot go beyond ddr3 1600 with loose timing.
> 
> if i use amd overdrive, the second i apply settings, windows kicks out of aero.
> 
> I would suggest ANYONE who is looking at this board to go with a AMD FX processor you stay FAR FAR away. Unless well someone can help me solve these problems, i have tried to call gigabyte tech support, they are not being very helpful.
> Bios verison is F5


Dont think ANY board is ready for Bulldozer... In my eyes, bulldozer is the problem... not the chipset.


----------



## mystikalrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan;15402699*
> thanks particle
> 
> that worked. I am guessing i will have to do that every time i reboot huh?
> 
> and yes i agree the ud3 is not ready for FX cpu's. All we can do is wait for new bios. Now to figure out the memory part.


My FX 8150 works fine on my UD3


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Well it seems after loots of google searching that this(UD3) board has some issue's with over heating. Lots of posts of people complaining about it in other place's. Now I'm kinda worried about it.

yes, AMD OverDrive give me about a 10c hotter CPU core temp than any other program. I have checked my temps with every free program I can get my hand's on and all of them report the exact same temp's with AMD OD being the odd man out showing about a 10c higher temp. while gaming it showed my CPU temps getting as hot as 70c..... I know my Silver Arrow is installed proper and I used ICD7 for TIM. I also am using San Ace 1011 high speed fans, so I STRONGLY dought AMD OD's claims of 70c while playing crime craft lol.

If I cant find any good new's about this problem in the next day or so I'll call Gigabyte Tech support to see what's going on. If I don't like what Gigabyte Tech support says I'll return it to Microcenter and get diff board...these giga boards seem to be VERY quirky, I dont like "quirks" in a $160 mobo....


----------



## michintom

Anyone with the UD3 having vdroop issues?
I'm going from 1.34 to 1.44vcore when stressing.








Running F5 bios btw.


----------



## ebduncan

overheating?

I will agree the vrm's do run quite warm. That heatsink on them is poorly seated, and rather small given the amperage and voltage the fx series uses.

I found a rather odd fix to this problem. I had a 790gx board Apon close inspection i found that the heatsinks shared the same mounting holes and layout. So i swapped them.
heres a link to the old board.
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=2887&dl=1#

its a all copper heatpipe sink, which i must say is much much better than the stock cooling on the ud3.
Quote:


> Anyone with the UD3 having vdroop issues?
> I'm going from 1.34 to 1.44vcore when stressing.
> Running F5 bios btw.


I have not noticed and vcore dropping issues. However it will go between 1.392, and 1.376 so a .016 difference, at the same time the clock speed changes from 4631.3mhz to 4630.9mhz however this is relatively normal. Do you have cool and quiet enabled or c1e?


----------



## pony-tail

I am new to both this forum and this thread .
I followed the 890fx thread for a long time and found it very useful . Although not an overclocker myself there is much of value in these forums .
I recently purchased a 990fxa - ud3 as an upgrade for my 890fxa - ud5 ( rev 2.1 )
So I decided to join up with your forum as I often read it to see how thins are going and what bioses work and suchlike .
I have had the UD3 for 8 weeks and although it works OK it can be a little flakey .
I dual boot between Win Vista and Ubuntu 10.04 . The onboard Nic malfunctions badly under linux and is disabled in bios - I am using a PCIe Intel nic .
It is a pretty basic setup - Phenom II 955 4gig Kingston value ram ang GF 275 video card ( basically just my old 890fx system with the mobo changed ) .
I was holding out waiting for bulldozer but was pretty disappointed with BD performance so I will most likely just use it as it is .


----------



## pony-tail

CpuZ validation for the 990FXA-ud3

Second Try


----------



## cr1st1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cr1st1*


Hy guys, I am having a real problem with this mobo, or maybe not, i don't really know.
If I put a memory stick in slot 3 it runs at 200Mhz(shown by DOS memtest or AIDA64).
If I put both of them in slots 1-3 same issue, if I put them in 4-2 something strange - the memory bandwidth is 500Mb/s smaller.

I was running the latest BIOS - F6, now I downgraded to F5 and even F4 and still the same problem.

Anyone else had these issues?
I understood that it might be the memory, or the mobo, or the cpu IMC.

Any ideas?

Thanks



So, nobody had this problem?


----------



## Particle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michintom;15403640*
> Anyone with the UD3 having vdroop issues?
> I'm going from 1.34 to 1.44vcore when stressing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running F5 bios btw.


Yes, I see it too but not quite as bad. I go from 1.4375V to 1.505V (+67mV compared to your +100mV) under load which is concerning.


----------



## tout

Absolutely love this board! My old Biostar 890FXE board did not run as stable or at this speed with such low voltage as this board does.

I needed 1.475 volts on the Biostar board for this CPU to run at 4 GHz and during stress testing it would go as high as 1.52 volts.

1.408 volts for this board at idle and during stress testing goes as far as 1.472. Yes, that's right, at full load in LinX this board runs lower than idle on my old board! Sweet Baby Jesus!

My temperatures reflect the decrease too so it's not just reporting different.

In addition to, I couldn't hit 2800 MHz on my CPU NB with the Biostar (no matter what voltage) but now I am sitting at 2819 MHz at 1.2 volts. This weekend I will see how much further I can tweak this system... shooting for 3000 MHz on the CPU NB and 4.2 GHz on the CPU. Wish me luck!


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tout;15408589*
> Absolutely love this board! My old Biostar 890FXE board did not run as stable or at this speed with such low voltage as this board does.
> 
> I needed 1.475 volts on the Biostar board for this CPU to run at 4 GHz and during stress testing it would go as high as 1.52 volts.
> 
> 1.408 volts for this board at idle and during stress testing goes as far as 1.472. Yes, that's right, at full load in LinX this board runs lower than idle on my old board! Sweet Baby Jesus!
> 
> My temperatures reflect the decrease too so it's not just reporting different.
> 
> In addition to, I couldn't hit 2800 MHz on my CPU NB with the Biostar (no matter what voltage) but now I am sitting at 2819 MHz at 1.2 volts. This weekend I will see how much further I can tweak this system... shooting for 3000 MHz on the CPU NB and 4.2 GHz on the CPU. Wish me luck!


What board rev do you have? and also what BIOS version are u using?


----------



## vinton13

Hey guys (UD7 owners specifically)...can I have your input on this?








http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherb...d7-owners.html


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13;15392374*
> Al right guys the board works.
> 
> Quick question though...
> Should Virtualization be enabled?
> And where do I find the ACPI 2 so I can enable it?


I had to enable Virtualization in order to install x64 bit OS to my VM. Prior to enabling this feature, I got errors trying to install x64 bit OS to VM. If you are not planning on installing a Virtual Machine with a x64 bit OS then you do NOT need to enable this feature.
As far as finding ACPI 2, someone with a UD7 will have to answer.

GL,
Krutonious Maximus


----------



## vinton13

Anyone know which TMPIN is which for the UD7 owners?

@Krutonious Maximus Okay, thanks.


----------



## BramSLI1

vinton13 said:


> Anyone know which TMPIN is which for the UD7 owners?
> 
> I've done extensive testing on this board and what I've been able to determine is that the TMPIN0 is the North Bridge, TMPIN1 are the MOSFETs and TMPIN2 is just inaccurate. The reason I believe this is because I've used a laser thermometer to confirm the corresponding temperatures and there wasn't anything that corresponds with the TMPIN2 sensor reading. If you look online you'll find that this sensor is generally inaccurate no matter what motherboard that it's on. I hope this is helpful.


----------



## vinton13

Alright then. Thanks.


----------



## Wenty

My new UD3 and 500R case today....... Love them both.


----------



## vinton13

^ Nice.
I have ONE LASTEST question...
How does Gigabyte on off charge work?
I installed the driver, and that's it?


----------



## Wenty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13;15412033*
> ^ Nice.
> I have ONE LASTEST question...
> How does Gigabyte on off charge work?
> I installed the driver, and that's it?


I'm wondering that too.


----------



## Garanthor

Well it was fun while it lasted...after 11 years of being a dedicated AMD fan I'm finally packing it in. Bulldozer was just the last straw. I'm so pissed of at what I'm reading. I just feel like AMD did a huge dump on all its most ardent supporters. AMD you suck!









I've given my 990FX UD5 and my 965 C3 to my son and I've just bought an Intel 2500K on a Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD4 motherboard (at least Gigabyte has always done their part to provide quality products). I will never go back to AMD.

Good luck with your boards gents. I suggest you keep your current processors and wait for about a year to see if AMD can produce a half decent CPU before looking to upgrade.


----------



## Zeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13;15410824*
> Anyone know which TMPIN is which for the UD7 owners?
> 
> @Krutonious Maximus Okay, thanks.


Mines at 61C. NB at 3ghz with 1.375v


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan;15404220*
> overheating?
> 
> I will agree the vrm's do run quite warm. That heatsink on them is poorly seated, and rather small given the amperage and voltage the fx series uses.
> 
> I found a rather odd fix to this problem. I had a 790gx board Apon close inspection i found that the heatsinks shared the same mounting holes and layout. So i swapped them.
> heres a link to the old board.
> http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=2887&dl=1#
> 
> its a all copper heatpipe sink, which i must say is much much better than the stock cooling on the ud3.
> 
> I have not noticed and vcore dropping issues. However it will go between 1.392, and 1.376 so a .016 difference, at the same time the clock speed changes from 4631.3mhz to 4630.9mhz however this is relatively normal. Do you have cool and quiet enabled or c1e?


Nope. I have cool and quiet and c1e disabled.


----------



## tout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo;15409143*
> What board rev do you have? and also what BIOS version are u using?


I have the rev 1.0 board and the F5 BIOS installed.

I actually had to increase my cpu and cpu NB voltage a notch or two after more testing. Most likely due to the fact that I am also running Cool n Quiet on my system while overclocking. This was something the Biostar 890FXE never worked for me with. Now I get a great overclock and save some on my electricity bill while surfing the net.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## musicman1953

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wenty;15412054*
> I'm wondering that too.


http://gigabyte.com/microsite/185/on-off-charge.htm
Only any use if you have an i-Phone


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Well it was fun while it lasted...after 11 years of being a dedicated AMD fan I'm finally packing it in. Bulldozer was just the last straw. I'm so pissed of at what I'm reading. I just feel like AMD did a huge dump on all its most ardent supporters. AMD you suck!


I am so impressed with Bulldozer that I am rebuilding my old 890FXA-ud5 . I bought a new board for bulldozer ( 990FXA-ud3 ) but I prefer the old 890FXA , it is stable and has given me no grief I am just going to put good ram an X6 and update a few other bits .
As for the 990FXA-ud3 I will see if new drivers and a couple of bios updates will fix the niggles the board has . I like the layout of the UD3 and it mostly runs OK . But bulldozer is not in it's foreseeable future !


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Liighthead

got a 99fxa UD3... ram. psu. hhd... just... no CPU haha carnt decide which


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## tout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail;15417996*
> I am so impressed with Bulldozer that I am rebuilding my old 890FXA-ud5 . I bought a new board for bulldozer ( 990FXA-ud3 ) but I prefer the old 890FXA , it is stable and has given me no grief I am just going to put good ram an X6 and update a few other bits .
> As for the 990FXA-ud3 I will see if new drivers and a couple of bios updates will fix the niggles the board has . I like the layout of the UD3 and it mostly runs OK . But bulldozer is not in it's foreseeable future !


Sorry you have had some issues. Mine's been rock solid right from the get go after a clean Windows install. I'm still running the drivers right from the disk that came with the board, lol.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15418085*
> Correct terminology?
> 
> Droop (to drop) , lower , flabby , not up?
> 
> Maybe "overshoot" , Raise=up
> 
> cheers


vboost, me thinks.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Sorry you have had some issues. Mine's been rock solid right from the get go after a clean Windows install. I'm still running the drivers right from the disk that came with the board, lol.


Maybe mine does not like the Quad - I see you are running an X6 .
Mine has not crashed - it just slows down almost to a stall hard drive to hard drive copies are all over the place and the USB is flakey mostly in both windoze and Linux - Not sure what it is but it is just not quite right .


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15418118*
> That one makes sense , is that a "offical" term?


Not sure but I've seen it mentioned a few times around the interwebz.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## WeirdHarold

Well, after all my research I'm leaning towards the ASUS M5A99X EVO Motherboard mostly due to the fact that it's far less expensive then the UD7 which is the Gigabyte board that I really like and it has everything I really need plus the UEFI Bios. But I'm going to spend some time comparing it to the UD3 and 5 before making any final decisions.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Particle

vBoost isn't a good name. The word "boost" implies it was intentional or desired while "overshoot" implies it wasn't. The overshoot isn't something we want or desire, so I'd say call it that even if vBoost is shorter and more convenient.


----------



## vinton13

*Me unboxing my UD7.
Nothing too professional.
This was just for my friends who wanted to see.*

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ltv1NvexPew[/ame]


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle;15420679*
> vBoost isn't a good name. The word "boost" implies it was intentional or desired while "overshoot" implies it wasn't. The overshoot isn't something we want or desire, so I'd say call it that even if vBoost is shorter and more convenient.


How 'bout "vSurge"? it has the same amount of letters as vBoost but doesn't seem to imply wanted increase in voltage









I've noticed this happen once in a while with my board as well [UD3], vCore is set to 1.450v in BIOS but CPU-Z reads 1.456v on idle and full load. While idle, it will sometimes droop to 1.440v and surge to 1.472v with only a <1MHz drop in Core Speed. The vDroop happens way more often on idle than load.









Cheers,
Krutonious Maximus


----------



## Wenty

Mine goes up too when stressed but I don't care because it all runs good.


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75;15418099*
> vboost, me thinks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krutonious Maximus;15420932*
> How 'bout "vSurge"? it has the same amount of letters as vBoost but doesn't seem to imply wanted increase in voltage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've noticed this happen once in a while with my board as well [UD3], vCore is set to 1.450v in BIOS but CPU-Z reads 1.456v on idle and full load. While idle, it will sometimes droop to 1.440v and surge to 1.472v with only a <1MHz drop in Core Speed. The vDroop happens way more often on idle than load.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Krutonious Maximus


vBoost or vSurge....any way to fix it?


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michintom;15421584*
> vBoost or vSurge....any way to fix it?


I wish I knew, I've only got 1 week of working with AMD products atm but am a very fast learner. Most of that time has been spent reading up on all aspects of OC'ing the Phenom II. So far I haven't found anything to fix a vDroop issue other than to leave it unplugged I guess...







lol, but that kind of defeats the purpose.

Since I'm only experiencing a +/- 0.016v Surge/Droop I can't really complain as that is far better than what some others on this thread have been complaining about with the UD5&7's. Funny thing for my setup is, voltage stays regulated @ 1.456 under full load about 99.9% of the time. It's only while idle that I notice the Droop/Surge accounting for maybe <3% of the time. In the BIOS [F4], I have it set to 1.450v.

What kind of Surge/Droop are you seeing with that BD on your UD3? Have you flashed to F5 yet? Are the BD's as picky with voltage as the Phenoms?

Funny how some answers tend to lead to more questions...









Thanx,
Krutonious Maximus


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

As far as I know there is no way around Vdroop/surge. some mobo's have it worse than other's but its just part of the game. As far as I'm concerned as long as the droop/surge dose not affect stability it make's no diff at all.

On another note I seem to have fixed the HWmonitor temp issue. I was using the F4 BIOS and the temps for TMPIN0,1 and 2 where insane, up to 250f. Not 20 min ago I updated to the F5 BIOS and temps seem to no only read the false high temps, but while stress testing temps have dropped by 5c on average.


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15425423*
> As far as I know there is no way around Vdroop/surge. some mobo's have it worse than other's but its just part of the game. As far as I'm concerned as long as the droop/surge dose not affect stability it make's no diff at all.
> 
> On another note I seem to have fixed the HWmonitor temp issue. I was using the F4 BIOS and the temps for TMPIN0,1 and 2 where insane, up to 250f. Not 20 min ago I updated to the F5 BIOS and temps seem to no only read the false high temps, but while stress testing temps have dropped by 5c on average.


How's the F5 working for you? I see by your sig that we have very similar setup with the same board and proc. Just wondering if F5 was giving you long cold boots? I read in some recent posts in this thread that some peeps were having this issue so I have not flashed yet and also because I'm not going to BD anytime soon [gonna wait for new revision/stepping and lower prices







]. If it doesn't hurt a PhII then I might flash...









Thanx,
Krutonious Maximus


----------



## MadGoat

what memory clocks and voltages are ya guys getting?

some cpuz shots?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krutonious Maximus;15425526*
> How's the F5 working for you? I see by your sig that we have very similar setup with the same board and proc. Just wondering if F5 was giving you long cold boots? I read in some recent posts in this thread that some peeps were having this issue so I have not flashed yet and also because I'm not going to BD anytime soon [gonna wait for new revision/stepping and lower prices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]. If it doesn't hurt a PhII then I might flash...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx,
> Krutonious Maximus


no issue's what so ever...how ever i did speak to soon, My temp sensors are still messed up. getting readings for TMPIN0,1 and 2 that are just ******ed....


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15426350*
> what memory clocks and voltages are ya guys getting?
> 
> some cpuz shots?


In addition:
NB is @1.250v [+0.150v from stock]
RAM is @ 1.515v


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15427411*
> I 'm the same as KhaoticKomputing in this regard , if the thing works , not overheating , not crashing , and works a treat , i dunna care what happens with the readings , that'd be a technical thing for the meter watchers .
> 
> Vsurge , you got my vote!


Thanx


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

HA~! I found out what the problem is for those of us with wicked high HardWareMonitor temps!!! its CPUID's Program, not the board. I have left Open Hard Ware Monitor AND CPUID's hardware monitor open, it took a while but CPUID's program read a peak temp of 87c on TMPIN0 while Open Hardware Monitor did not have any reading that high! So there you have it! Program bug not a mobo bug


----------



## drufause

I don't usually trust those apps that's why you need an IR thermo reader


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drufause;15430764*
> I don't usually trust those apps that's why you need an IR thermo reader


Even with an IR Thermometer you're not guaranteed accurate temps. The IR only takes surface temps while the sensors for CPU, Cores, NB, etc... are in the sockets. Depending on the TIM used and how well the heatsinks were seated, the difference can vary substantially.

Going from Idle to Full Load using P95 + Furmark for a couple hours I get the following temps in HWMonitor Pro v1.12:

TMPIN0 reads between 25*C and 29*C
TMPIN1 reads between 25*C and 54*C
TMPIN2 reads between 37*C and 65*C

TMPIN0 - Did not increase from stock clocks/voltages
TMPIN1 - Mirrors my CPU core temps - 1*C on idle and +1*C on load.
TMPIN2 - Did not go up after OC'ing my NB from 2.0GHz to 2.6Ghz and adding extra voltage to it as well so I am not convinced that this sensor is the NB as most seem to think in this thread.

I even opened my case right after that torture test and touched both my VRM & NB heatsinks and neither was too hot to touch. One of these days when I have the time and gumption I will re-seat them with new TIM one at a time and see if I get a difference in temps.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15431617*
> Just so i can take a look too , which temp in OHM? , i only have Temp 1 and 2 and 3 and cpu core 1-4 no zero ...
> 
> Did you have to adjust the CPU core temp from default? , in parameters , i had to add a 12 for it to read correct .
> 
> At the mo
> 1=35c
> 2=20c
> 3=28c and the above max's are all 1c higher
> 
> CPU Core #1-#4 28.5c with a max of 32c with a 12 added in parameters , and i have checked that with several other monitors to confim it's correct..
> 
> Ambient 22c


It was CPUID's program Hardware Monitor that was giving me the bogus readings. the program called Open Hardware monitor was giving me perfect readings


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15432179*
> Just a thought , that temp2 , i wonder if it is the GPU? or i recall a week ago or so but not accurately , that there was a actual cpu sensor not on the die and/or another sensor on the board under the die , as in the socket?
> 
> Anyway , good temps there you got , cheers...


Yeah, I heard TMPIN1 was CPU Socket from other posts. TMPIN2 is not GPU though, that has its own sensor in HWMP and has a max temp of 71*C after OC'ing and running Furmark over 2 hours whilst running P95. I guess it's a toss up between posts that TMPIN2 is either NB or VRM. I'd like to think VRM as it can take more







than the NB... lol.


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15432311*
> It was CPUID's program Hardware Monitor that was giving me the bogus readings. the program called Open Hardware monitor was giving me perfect readings


Thanks for the mention of that app OHM. I downloaded and compared it to HWMP and they both have the exact same temps on idle and load. IMO maybe you should try re-installing HWMP if it is giving you that much trouble.


----------



## ebduncan

tmpin0- northbridge
tmpin1= cpu
tmpin2= vrm

is my understanding

However i have a hard time thinking the cpuid hardware monitor reports the correct temps.

On a side note a new bios is coming for the ud3


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan;15434258*
> tmpin0- northbridge
> tmpin1= cpu
> tmpin2= vrm
> 
> is my understanding
> 
> However i have a hard time thinking the cpuid hardware monitor reports the correct temps.
> 
> On a side note a new bios is coming for the ud3


If thats the case....Im at 65c load


----------



## Lordred

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat;15426350*
> what memory clocks and voltages are ya guys getting?
> 
> some cpuz shots?


This has been pretty comfortable for now.

1.375v CPU @ 4025mhz
1.25v CPU-NB @ 2990mhz
1.65v DRAM @ 1840mhz


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lordred;15436224*
> This has been pretty comfortable for now.
> 
> 1.375v CPU @ 4025mhz
> 1.25v CPU-NB @ 2990mhz
> 1.65v DRAM @ 1840mhz


That's an awesome result! 1.375, is under load?

Mine so far...










either my board or my chip doesn't like the 250 spot... So I'm working with lower base clocks to see what I can get...

(Screen is under full load)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan;15434258*
> tmpin0- northbridge
> tmpin1= cpu
> tmpin2= vrm
> 
> is my understanding
> 
> However i have a hard time thinking the cpuid hardware monitor reports the correct temps.
> 
> On a side note a new bios is coming for the ud3


Almost right. I posted this awhile back(2-3 days ago) on here.
TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp

According to a Mod on Gigabyte UK support thread.









There are no VRAMS sensors on the UD boards....which sucks! "system" is the southbridge...i think..


----------



## Vesku

What's more trustworthy the TMPIN1 CPU reading or the Temp from the cpu itself? Roughly a 10-15C difference between the two for me under load. This is on a Phenom II chip.


----------



## Rebelord

Core Temp or AMD Overdrive for actual CPU temp.


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;15439734*
> Core Temp or AMD Overdrive for actual CPU temp.


Every time I use Core Temp, it is 5*C less than HWMP. I've checked the TJMax on both and CT is 5*C lower @ 95*C... so they both display the same temps for me if I set TJMax to the same.
At this point, accuracy for me comes down to knowing what to set TJMax to for my chip but I haven't taken the time to look it up yet. I'm stable with no crashes or BSODs [knock on wood] so no rush atm.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesku;15439680*
> What's more trustworthy the TMPIN1 CPU reading or the Temp from the cpu itself? Roughly a 10-15C difference between the two for me under load. This is on a Phenom II chip.


It depends. CPU temp(TMPIN 01 in HWMONITOR, TMPIN02 in OHW) is the SOCKET temp. the Core temp is the temp's of the actual core's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;15439734*
> Core Temp or AMD Overdrive for actual CPU temp.


I dislike CoreTemp because it show's the average of all the core's. I don't Use AMD OverDrive because it reads 10c higher than all the other programs. I know what this CPU idle's at, and loads at at stock and my OC's. befor this mobo temps where just a few c above room temp, with load giving me about a 17c delta(stock clocks on 955BE) AMD Overdrive was correct on my old ASUS board, but with this board it show's I'm idleing at around 40c+ where as CoreTemp, HWMonitor, OHWM, EVERIST, EasyTune6 and AIDA64 all show my idle at a few C above room temp, and load being about 17c delta.

I have been doing tons of reading and it seems the UD3-5-7 have some problem's with giving correct temps on all the above mentioned monitor programs. Further more it depends on the specific mobo as to which program will show the discrepancy.

My advice is to use all of them and cross refrence temps to see which are accurate. In my case I use OHWMonitor.


----------



## vinton13

What does the code "CF" mean?


----------



## Rebelord

Here is why I use CoreTemp and AMD Overdrive and recommend it for use:
AMD Temp and Information Guide
Quote:


> Concerning your question regarding the temperatures with your processor. (1090) the maximum temperature threshold is 62 Celsius which set for the internal die (core) temperature of the chip. The core temperatures have an equational offset to determine temperature which equalizes at about 45 Celsius thus giving you more accurate readings at peak temperatures. The hindrance in this is the sub ambient idle temperature readings you speak of.
> 
> The silicon and adhesives used in manufacturing these processors has a peak temperature rating of 97+ Celsius before any form of degradation will take place. The processor also has a thermal shut off safe guard in place that shuts the processor down at 90 Celsius.
> 
> The Cpu temperature is read form a sensor embedded within the socket of your motherboard causing about a 7-10 Celsius variance form the actual Cpu temperature, which may be what you are reading about on the net.
> 
> You can use an application called AMD overdrive, that will allow you to monitor your temperatures accurately.
> 
> As long as your core temperature has not exceeded the high side of the 60 degree mark for extended periods of time you should be ok. 62 degrees holds a generous safety net to begin with.
> 
> I hope I was able to answer your questions, If you have any more inquiries don't hesitate to contact us.
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Alex Cromwell
> Senior Technology Director
> Advanced Micro Devices
> Fort Collins, Colorado
> 2950 East Harmony Road
> Suite 300
> Fort Collins, CO
> 80528-9558


Quote:


> Response and Service Request History:
> 
> Thank you for contacting AMD. The core temperature is the correct temperatures. For your processor the safe temperature is 62 C. There are so many applications for processor temperature monitor and may not be accurate. We recommend Core Temp software to monitor the temperature of your cores. Its a free utility online. If your core's are running at 61.6 or 62 C, then they are running hot and you may have a defective processor.
> 
> In order to update this service request, please respond, leaving the service request reference intact.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Francine
> 
> AMD Global Customer Care


----------



## vinton13

Guys I'm worried...what does the code CF mean?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord;15441020*
> Here is why I use CoreTemp and AMD Overdrive and recommend it for use:
> AMD Temp and Information Guide


lol. The AMD guy is going to tell you that AMD OverDrive is what to use. its an ok program, but for some people it is not an option, like for me. it reads 10 c higher than it should. If what AMD overdrive was reporting for my CPU core temps it would cause shut down, 70-80c on all 4 core's on load, and a 40c idle. according to my BIOS temps they are off by at least 10 c at idle. I also set alarms to go on in my BIOS should temps go higher than spec for CPU, they have never triggerd.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## vinton13

Okay I think we're good.
I restarted and it's all good.
._.


----------



## BramSLI1

Vinton13, my board used to do that too when ever it powered back up from sleep mode. I haven't used sleep mode in a while so I don't know if it still does it. I wouldn't worry about it though.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> With this just being the first article of a series looking at the AMD FX-8150 "Bulldozer" under Linux, more conclusions will be drawn later. However, as these results show, under Linux the AMD FX-8150 is a competitive product to the Intel Core i5 2500K when dealing with multi-threaded workloads. For single-threaded work and other select tasks, the Bulldozer performance is disappointing.


A quote from a Phoronix Review of an FX8150 under linux
Worth a read but the BD for my money is seriously inconsistent even under Linux - That said it does look to fare better in Linux than in Windoze


----------



## mxthunder

Guys rumor has it that rev 1.1 of the UD7 has support for LLC!
Time to RMA.... thanks a lot Gigabyte


----------



## tw33k

CPUZ

Still need to work on the RAM but not trying to push the chip further


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15445981*
> Guys rumor has it that rev 1.1 of the UD7 has support for LLC!
> Time to RMA.... thanks a lot Gigabyte


Oh hell no...
Gigabyte has some explaining to do if this is so.


----------



## Karossua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15448448*
> Oh hell no...
> Gigabyte has some explaining to do if this is so.


Remenber, never buy again gigabyte board...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karossua;15456408*
> Remenber, never buy again gigabyte board...


Why not? as a long time ASUS buyer, I am more than happy with my Gigabyte Board.
So what they offer a new revision with a new option(LLC) dose this realy matter?


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15456516*
> Why not? as a long time ASUS buyer, I am more than happy with my Gigabyte Board.
> So what they offer a new revision with a new option(LLC) dose this realy matter?


It really matters.
I don't want to pump 1.6v into my CPU idle in order to get 1.45v under load.
Not only that, but the vdrop is very inconsistent.


----------



## iSeries

Are there any newer chipset drivers available than what is on Gigabyte's website for the UD5?


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## tw33k

I had to set the CPU core voltage to 1.475 for 4GHz. It drops to 1.37v-1.39v under load. I have good cooling tho and max temp under full load is only ~37c so I've got plenty of room for higher clocks


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;15458830*
> I had to set the CPU core voltage to 1.475 for 4GHz. It drops to 1.37v-1.39v under load. I have good cooling tho and max temp under full load is only ~37c so I've got plenty of room for higher clocks


...but is it Intel Burn Test stable?


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15458152*
> It really matters.
> I don't want to pump 1.6v into my CPU idle in order to get 1.45v under load.
> Not only that, but the vdrop is very inconsistent.


Right. We are the early adopters of this new board, we buy it because we want the best, and want to support an awesome company for making an awesome product, then they go and change it on us, so that the people that are too cheap to buy it right away get the good stuff.
Not cool.
I am attempting to open a support ticket with giga right now, but I dont know how to rma.

See post #133 in this thread

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=676953&page=3


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15459213*
> ...but is it Intel Burn Test stable?


I don't care


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15458152*
> It really matters.
> I don't want to pump 1.6v into my CPU idle in order to get 1.45v under load.
> Not only that, but the vdrop is very inconsistent.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15459243*
> Right. We are the early adopters of this new board, we buy it because we want the best, and want to support an awesome company for making an awesome product, then they go and change it on us, so that the people that are too cheap to buy it right away get the good stuff.
> Not cool.
> I am attempting to open a support ticket with giga right now, but I dont know how to rma.
> 
> See post #133 in this thread
> 
> http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=676953&page=3


I still don't see a reason to not buy a gigabyte board. I have said it before so I'll say it again. there is not such thing as a "VDroop" free board. even the world record holding ASUS crosshair board has Vdroop. If anything the fact that they are adding a new revision of the board show's they care about their performance and are taking it up to the next level.
I think you should have done more home work on what board to get if you new you where going to want "The best performance possible", but thats just my two cents.

EDIT: so far, Overclocking on my UD3 has gone like butter. I'm still fiddling with it but I love the performance I'm getting so far. No reason to bash it gigabyte.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;15459411*
> I don't care


You don't care that it's potentially unstable?
To each their own I suppose.


----------



## tw33k

As long as it's stable while doing everything I need it to do is all that matters to me. So far so good (it's handled all the benchmarks and Aida 64 stress test)


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;15459536*
> As long as it's stable while doing everything I need it to do is all that matters to me. So far so good (it's handled all the benchmarks and Aida 64 stress test)


Fair enough.
Personally I don't like the feeling of "if I run this program it might crash".
IBT and P95 do a pretty good job maxing out the CPU.


----------



## tw33k

I don't disagree. They do their job well


----------



## el gappo

New revision UD7 ( llc fix ) incoming, will compare with the old rev ( For droop + performance ) and some other boards


----------



## Vesku

Glad I got the UD3 instead of a 5 or 7. Vdroop stays within 0.005 for me.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;15463386*
> New revision UD7 ( llc fix ) incoming, will compare with the old rev ( For droop + performance ) and some other boards


Please don't let it be just for revision 1.1.








I don't want to RMA my board.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15466110*
> Please don't let it be just for revision 1.1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want to RMA my board.


I agree with you. They should release an update for us that grabbed our boards early. Why should we we miss out?


----------



## el gappo

If you guys want a vdroop fix you will have to either Hardmod the board or exchange for the new rev. Giga done goofed on that one, I agree it would be nice for them to RMA the old boards but as they work fine stock, not sure they will.

It has to be done via hardware, you can't change it with a bios.


----------



## BramSLI1

This really sucks for me because I violated my warranty by removing the stock heat sink and going with the EK UD7 waterblock. Oh well. Live and learn. I really haven't had any major problems with my board and I fixed the problem with the "CPU fan not working properly" error. It turns out that the fan I had plugged into that header wasn't spinning fast enough so all I had to do was plug it into a molex adapter. Haven't had a problem since.


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15467205*
> This really sucks for me because I violated my warranty by removing the stock heat sink and going with the EK UD7 waterblock. Oh well. Live and learn. I really haven't had any major problems with my board and I fixed the problem with the "CPU fan not working properly" error. It turns out that the fan I had plugged into that header wasn't spinning fast enough so all I had to do was plug it into a molex adapter. Haven't had a problem since.


Don't see that as a problem really mate, the vdroop issue has nothing to do with the heatsink. Worst case scenario you get your board back or they wont accept it.

But as I said, no idea if Giga will rma for this issue, would be great if they did.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;15467287*
> Don't see that as a problem really mate, the vdroop issue has nothing to do with the heatsink. Worst case scenario you get your board back or they wont accept it.
> 
> But as I said, no idea if Giga will rma for this issue, would be great if they did.


I'm sure they would RMA for the select few that request it.
If they don't implement LLC or reduce the vdrop on rev. 1.0 and they don't accept an RMA. Oh boy... I'll do my best to make this issue know.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;15467287*
> Don't see that as a problem really mate, the vdroop issue has nothing to do with the heatsink. Worst case scenario you get your board back or they wont accept it.
> 
> But as I said, no idea if Giga will rma for this issue, would be great if they did.


I was just saying that by removing my heat sink I had violated my warranty. I know it doesn't have anything to do with vdroop. Thanks for the info though.


----------



## robbo2

Well that's really crappy of gigabyte after they told us it was meant for BD and it is actually a hardware problem


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robbo2;15468413*
> Well that's really crappy of gigabyte after they told us it was meant for BD and it is actually a hardware problem


Have you got a link to where someone from Gigabyte said that?


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;15468431*
> Have you got a link to where someone from Gigabyte said that?


They said they followed AM3+ specifications.
Yet their revised board mysteriously doesn't have this vdrop problem.


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15468172*
> I'm sure they would RMA for the select few that request it.
> If they don't implement LLC or reduce the vdrop on rev. 1.0 and they don't accept an RMA. Oh boy... I'll do my best to make this issue know.


Im with you. Id like to get the RMA process going now. Have no clue how to do it though, never done it before.


----------



## robbo2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;15468431*
> Have you got a link to where someone from Gigabyte said that?


I just heard it from other people that had e-mailed Gigabyte. They said it was built to AMD's specifications for BD.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15468459*
> Im with you. Id like to get the RMA process going now. Have no clue how to do it though, never done it before.


Wait until rev. 1.1 makes it out to the wild.
... and we can confirm that 1.0 won't get LLC.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;15463386*
> New revision UD7 ( llc fix ) incoming, will compare with the old rev ( For droop + performance ) and some other boards


Any idea when the new revision will be available to buy?


----------



## el gappo

Not sure, there are some samples floating around.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;15469061*
> Not sure, there are some samples floating around.


Do you know if these new boards have the F6 BIOS installed?
Perhaps they ship with a newer BIOS.


----------



## Furball Zen

I searched, but couldnt find a hit.

Im looking at getting a UD3 or 5 cause the 7 wont fit my case







and im wondering if anyone has answered the question on whether there is a water block for either of them?

Thanks!


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen;15469094*
> I searched, but couldnt find a hit.
> 
> Im looking at getting a UD3 or 5 cause the 7 wont fit my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and im wondering if anyone has answered the question on whether there is a water block for either of them?
> 
> Thanks!


Just remember that the current UD5 and 7 has inconsistent vdrop issues.


----------



## Krahe

A quick query, wasn't Sin using a bios from Gigabyte that had LLC? I understand that it was only for testers ect but it shows that they can implement it in a future BIOS hopefully.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krähe;15471577*
> A quick query, wasn't Sin using a bios from Gigabyte that had LLC? I understand that it was only for testers ect but it shows that they can implement it in a future BIOS hopefully.


I don't know if he mentioned which revision he was using.









It's cropped off in that picture.


----------



## BramSLI1

Evil, that revision number is for the Chipset I think. The motherboard revision is the x.x number isn't it? If it is then I think we're all using the same motherboard revision because mine says x.x in that box as well. This could be really good news if Gigabyte will just give us the BIOS that has LLC.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen;15469094*
> I searched, but couldnt find a hit.
> 
> Im looking at getting a UD3 or 5 cause the 7 wont fit my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and im wondering if anyone has answered the question on whether there is a water block for either of them?
> 
> Thanks!


No one?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen;15475918*
> No one?


EK makes a kit for the 990FXA-UD3 but you'll still have to use the SB stock heat sink. It doesn't appear that anyone makes one for the UD5 though.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15477902*
> EK makes a kit for the 990FXA-UD3 but you'll still have to use the SB stock heat sink. It doesn't appear that anyone makes one for the UD5 though.


Yea, EK has universal block kit that fits the UD3, all but the SB.


----------



## Furball Zen

Link? Cause all i saw was for the UD7 which has the NB in a different spot.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen;15478651*
> Link? Cause all i saw was for the UD7 which has the NB in a different spot.


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10700/ex-blc-735/EK_GA_AMD_KIT_Full_Board_Cooling_Block_Kit_-_Acrylic_-_EK-FB_GA_AMD_KIT.html?tl=g30c89s147 Here's your link. I hope this helps.


----------



## el gappo

Not really going to gain anything from water cooling the board other than a lighter wallet and some pretty pics imo..


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo;15479479*
> Not really going to gain anything from water cooling the board other than a lighter wallet and some pretty pics imo..


I'm going to be water cooling my board, but I have my own reasons
With it being 70f in my living room and my northbridge hit's 55c. That is fine and dandy but when this summer hits it get's very very hot in my living room. 88-95f. so water blocks on the VRAMS and NB for me


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *el gappo*


Not really going to gain anything from water cooling the board other than a lighter wallet and some pretty pics imo..



Quote:



Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*


I'm going to be water cooling my board, but I have my own reasons








With it being 70f in my living room and my northbridge hit's 55c. That is fine and dandy but when this summer hits it get's very very hot in my living room. 88-95f. so water blocks on the VRAMS and NB for me










Im already WC'd, and its more of a "cooler lasts longer" person. If im dropping cash on something like that, i want my moneys worth cause its an investment. A lot of people will realize that when you get older and arent living off Mom and Dad or school loans.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*


Im already WC'd, and its more of a "cooler lasts longer" person. If im dropping cash on something like that, i want my moneys worth cause its an investment. A lot of people will realize that when you get older and arent living off Mom and Dad or school loans.


I wish i had mom n dads money lol


----------



## Furball Zen

LOL, that wasnt meant for you just in general


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*


LOL, that wasnt meant for you just in general










 I know it wasn't directed at anyone in general. but i still wish I had monies lol.


----------



## Furball Zen

Dont we all


----------



## robbo2

Quote:



Originally Posted by *el gappo*


Not really going to gain anything from water cooling the board other than a lighter wallet and some pretty pics imo..


Agreed. Unless you want the aesthetics a fan blowing over the top will suffice.


----------



## vinton13

Quick question guys...for the UD7 owners.
Anytime I put the computer to sleep, I see the "CF" code instead of "FF" after awaking it.
Is it only me?

AND IT ABSOLUTELY SUCKS how a new rev came out one week after I got my board....


----------



## Furball Zen

For the UD3/5 owners who ARENT using the stock VRM cooling...can you tell me how wide the bottom of the stock heatsink is? Length isnt an issue, but id like to know how wide it is.

Thanks and rep for those who answer


----------



## Particle

I just had that thing off until yesterday while I was coating my UD3 in polyurethane. I'd take it off and measure it for you, but I'd waste all that paste. I re-did it with Ceramique 2 instead of using the foam strip.


----------



## Furball Zen

Thanks anyways.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


Quick question guys...for the UD7 owners.
Anytime I put the computer to sleep, I see the "CF" code instead of "FF" after awaking it.
Is it only me?

AND IT ABSOLUTELY SUCKS how a new rev came out one week after I got my board....


I see the same code after waking mine from sleep mode. I haven't had any problems though.


----------



## Cosanostra

"coating my UD3 in polyurethane"

Just curious as to what/why?


----------



## Furball Zen

Probably for extreme cooling so condensation doesnt destroy the mobo.


----------



## arsenal553

Hey guys i'm having this issue with my UD7 where every time i cold boot it goes to a black screen after the post screen and there is no USB power to my mouse or keyboard. The debug screen says FF.


----------



## Valnjes

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


Quick question guys...for the UD7 owners.
Anytime I put the computer to sleep, I see the "CF" code instead of "FF" after awaking it.
Is it only me?

AND IT ABSOLUTELY SUCKS how a new rev came out one week after I got my board....



Quote:



Originally Posted by *arsenal553*


Hey guys i'm having this issue with my UD7 where every time i cold boot it goes to a black screen after the post screen and there is no USB power to my mouse or keyboard. The debug screen says FF.


Next time buy RockAss! instead of GigaBut!


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valnjes*


Next time buy RockAss! instead of GigaBut!


Very clever..


----------



## arsenal553

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valnjes*


Next time buy RockAss! instead of GigaBut!


So there is no fix for this?


----------



## Valnjes

Try rollback to F3 BIOS... Maybe You will have more luck...


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *arsenal553*


Hey guys i'm having this issue with my UD7 where every time i cold boot it goes to a black screen after the post screen and there is no USB power to my mouse or keyboard. The debug screen says FF.


Is your mouse and keyboard plugged into a USB 2.0 ports? Or do you have them in the USB 3.0 ports? The USB 3.0 ports wont recognize correctly until booted into OS for drivers to run them correctly. 
Also, check your boot order, devices. 
However, if you debug code is FF. ( I dont have my manual with me.) But IIRC, that is normal. So, you might have a video issue "possibly". Make sure in the BIOS to set the initial graphics option to PEG1/2/3/etc to where you video card is installed, if you have dual or triple, then set it to the first one. 
I can answer more later when I get home.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *vinton13*


AND IT ABSOLUTELY SUCKS how a new rev came out one week after I got my board....


Whatcha mean? Were still on Rev. 1.0 in the U.S.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Patiently-ish waiting for LLC to appear on the UD7 rev. 1.1.


----------



## Sin0822

where do you see a revision 1.1?


----------



## arsenal553

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rebelord*


Is your mouse and keyboard plugged into a USB 2.0 ports? Or do you have them in the USB 3.0 ports? The USB 3.0 ports wont recognize correctly until booted into OS for drivers to run them correctly. 
Also, check your boot order, devices. 
However, if you debug code is FF. ( I dont have my manual with me.) But IIRC, that is normal. So, you might have a video issue "possibly". Make sure in the BIOS to set the initial graphics option to PEG1/2/3/etc to where you video card is installed, if you have dual or triple, then set it to the first one. 
I can answer more later when I get home.


+1 Rep
Thanks a lot, the I set it to PEG 1 and it fixed everything.


----------



## Rebelord

arsenal553: Glad it helped!


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15511996*
> where do you see a revision 1.1?


Well, this post is referring to the UD5, but I'm pretty sure it applies to UD7 as well.

Yesterday, I found a post that showed pictures of the differences between 1.0 and 1.1 revision boards, but I can't seem to find it now.

EDIT: I found the post.


----------



## LBear

If Sin doesn't know about the UD7 rev 1.1 board which im amusing cause he asked about it, then that tells you he was using the rev 1.0 with a bios that gigabyte has yet to release with an LLC option.


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear;15514441*
> If Sin doesn't know about the UD7 rev 1.1 board which im amusing cause he asked about it, then that tells you he was using the rev 1.0 with a bios that gigabyte has yet to release with an LLC option.


I'm aware that he has a special BIOS w/LLC. Maybe Gigabyte determined that there are significant problems using LLC on the current revision board. They probably would have released a BIOS w/LLC by now if it was that simple.

I don't know, so I'm waiting to see what happens.


----------



## Sin0822

LBear don't assume.


----------



## LBear

Sorry sin, my bad.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Well this sucks...
It looks like more and more that rev. 1.0 might not get LLC.


----------



## kelvintheiah

my system wont post. there's an error on debug led showing 99 means Super IO Initialization. what could be the problem? im not having a display on my cpu. guess it's my gpu, its sapphire 6850 =(( i need help.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15517548*
> Well this sucks...
> It looks like more and more that rev. 1.0 might not get LLC.


What is LLC?


----------



## valvehead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen;15520239*
> What is LLC?


Load Line Calibration. It reduces or eliminates Vdroop (the drop in Vcore under load). Without it, Vcore may drop too much under load, causing the computer to crash.

Many newer motherboards have multiple levels allowing you to fine tune its effect. You can adjust it for reduced Vdroop or simply eliminate Vdroop entirely. You do have to be careful about setting it too high because it can actually cause Vcore to go up under load.


----------



## bicen

Anyone able to send me a copy of the f7a bios for UD5? I'd like to give it a try.

Thanks,

bicen


----------



## piggos

Hi there, and glad to be here









I ve been reading the thread for more than three hours, but I have only managed the 30 pages out of the 186







And it is time for me to go to bed, since I am working really early tomorrow...

So, I am thinking of buying the UD3 along with the 960T. The question is will I have any good luck unlocking the cores? Second to that, will I be able to it with some minor OCing (say 3.4-3.6) as well?

During the early pages of this thread, I read that there were serious problems with core unlocking with these MBs. Did they fix it with latest Bios?

I really like Gigabyte, but if these problems are still there, I am thinking of going to the Asrock 990FX extreme 3/4 instead.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *piggos*


Hi there, and glad to be here









I ve been reading the thread for more than three hours, but I have only managed the 30 pages out of the 186







And it is time for me to go to bed, since I am working really early tomorrow...

So, I am thinking of buying the UD3 along with the 960T. The question is will I have any good luck unlocking the cores? Second to that, will I be able to it with some minor OCing (say 3.4-3.6) as well?

During the early pages of this thread, I read that there were serious problems with core unlocking with these MBs. Did they fix it with latest Bios?

I really like Gigabyte, but if these problems are still there, I am thinking of going to the Asrock 990FX extreme 3/4 instead.

Thanks in advance.


 that 960T is beastly! Thinking about swapping out my 955 for one







I have seen many posts about 960T's unlocking to 6 core's and hitting up to 3.8GHz. 
As for the board(UD3) I am unaware about the core unlocking ability but I have been playing with the OC ability of it and I am happy with what I have managed with my chip, In the next few weeks I should have a validation for a nice OC...still waiting on the rest of my upgrade's though


----------



## RonzoX

Traductor
Hello friends, I have a technical question, for connection to crossfire of two plates, the manual explains that they placed in slot 1 and 5, both at 16x, and I see the bridge work the mother is short as approx you get to connect the two plates, you understand?
someone could give me their experience in the crossfire of only two plates and placed in that slot go?
thanks to the community
Ronzox


----------



## RonzoX

forgiveness, do not specify which model ...
Gigabyte GA-990FXA - udh7 AM3 +
tks!
RonzoX!


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonzoX;15526737*
> forgiveness, do not specify which model ...
> Gigabyte GA-990FXA - udh7 AM3 +
> tks!
> RonzoX!


Let me try to understand your question...
Your CrossFire bridge isn't long enough to reach both cards if one is placed on the first slot and the other in the fifth slot?


----------



## RonzoX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15526786*
> Let me try to understand your question...
> Your CrossFire bridge isn't long enough to reach both cards if one is placed on the first slot and the other in the fifth slot?


exact, the plates not yet reached me, so consult, if the bridge is long enough to connect the two boards in slot 1 and 5 (16x)


----------



## Furball Zen

I thought it was 1st and 3rd slot for 16x, but looking at the mobo pics, its clearly the 5th slot... odd. On the UD3 its the 3rd 16x slot which looks to be the proper distance apart.

Ronzo, did the package include a longer cable? I know the ones that come with the video cards and say ATi will be much too short.


----------



## RonzoX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen;15526892*
> I thought it was 1st and 3rd slot for 16x, but looking at the mobo pics, its clearly the 5th slot... odd. On the UD3 its the 3rd 16x slot which looks to be the proper distance apart.
> 
> Ronzo, did the package include a longer cable? I know the ones that come with the video cards and say ATi will be much too short.


the bridge that comes with the plate is very short, and I can not compare to the bridge that comes with the mother, because I have not here right now, so consult


----------



## RonzoX

somebody help me!


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonzoX;15526973*
> somebody help me!


Patience grasshopper...also fill out your sys specs.







Use the link in my sig. It's helpful to others when you're asking for help.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonzoX;15526959*
> the bridge that comes with the plate is very short, and I can not compare to the bridge that comes with the mother, because I have not here right now, so consult


You'll have to use the crossfire bridge that comes with your motherboard.
If you put your video card in any other slots they won't perform at full speed.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonzoX;15526973*
> somebody help me!


I DL'ed the UD7 manual. It would seem that for the cards to work at full speed you do need to place the cards in PCIEx16_1 and PCIEX16_2. Your board should have shipped with an Xfire bridge long enough to cover the gap and allow and use the Xfire.
I'm not sure of how long the gap is, but if you measure it i know that amazon sells a 10 CM xfire Bridge for 7-8 bucks. An Xfire bridge is an xfire bridge
If you do not use the cards in the specified PCIEx16 slots you will suffer in performance as said befor.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15528262*
> With the current topic theme --
> With the UD3 i got , it came with a short bridge that had SLI written on it , got me and the shop confused so even the shop was not sure , they gave me a MSI brand that had xfire on it , the short SLI one was the correct lenght but they gave me a slightly longer MSI one just to be sure .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are the included G/B ones actually SLI , if there is a difference? as the plugs looked the same .
> 
> For 2 ATI cards .
> 
> cheers


Xfire-bridges mostly comes with AMD gpus. SLI-bridges with the motherboards. Not sure why that is, though.
SLI-bridges have narrower connectors.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## RonzoX

I see the bridge that comes with the motherboard is longer than the one supplied with the board, CAN SOMEONE CONFIRM?


----------



## RonzoX

I have two 2GB Sapphire 6950 Toxic Edition

if someone is already in crossfire connect (two vga), please specify in which slots and if the bridge that come with the motherboard is long enough to connect both at full speed 16x.
tks


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonzoX*


I see the bridge that comes with the motherboard is longer than the one supplied with the board, CAN SOMEONE CONFIRM?


The ones that come with the board are long enough to run both cards at full speed.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*


For the UD3/5 owners who ARENT using the stock VRM cooling...can you tell me how wide the bottom of the stock heatsink is? Length isnt an issue, but id like to know how wide it is.

Thanks and rep for those who answer










Bump? Thanks!


----------



## RonzoX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*


The ones that come with the board are long enough to run both cards at full speed.


Tks! thats the answer i need,!
RonzoX


----------



## Valnjes

There will be no LLC for rev1.0, only rev1.1 and later.

Gigabyte does it again to its users.

With the 890XX-XXX series, the rev1.0 didn't have ANY
tools for unlocking CPU cores.

Soon, they released the rev1.1 of all their MBO's with the unlocking tool,
and the rev1.0 user just got fu*ked...


----------



## bicen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *RonzoX*


I have two 2GB Sapphire 6950 Toxic Edition

if someone is already in crossfire connect (two vga), please specify in which slots and if the bridge that come with the motherboard is long enough to connect both at full speed 16x.
tks


1st and 3rd PCIE16 slots (marked PCIE16_1 and PCIE16_2 on mobo) , don't stick a card in the slot with the mechanical lock.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Valnjes*


There will be no LLC for rev1.0, only rev1.1 and later.

Gigabyte does it again to its users.

With the 890XX-XXX series, the rev1.0 didn't have ANY
tools for unlocking CPU cores.

Soon, they released the rev1.1 of all their MBO's with the unlocking tool,
and the rev1.0 user just got fu*ked...


That's what it really looks like...
I'm waiting for the actual motherboard to hit retail so I could RMA the board. 
Gigabyte would be very wise to exchange my board for 1.1.


----------



## RonzoX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicen;15533381*
> 1st and 3rd PCIE16 slots (marked PCIE16_1 and PCIE16_2 on mobo) , don't stick a card in the slot with the mechanical lock.


But you have the ud5, i want the ud7, thats the mother who comes with the slots 1 and 5 for a full 16x crossfire, i think, searching photos that´s the bridge who comes with the motherboard is long to that connection... slot 1 and 5
Ronzox


----------



## Furball Zen

Right, i posted that the UD3/5 were slots 1 and 3, but the UD7 is 1/5 for some odd reason. Guess someone was confused on that.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RonzoX;15537793*
> But you have the ud5, i want the ud7, thats the mother who comes with the slots 1 and 5 for a full 16x crossfire, i think, searching photos that´s the bridge who comes with the motherboard is long to that connection... slot 1 and 5
> Ronzox


Twice now you have been given an answer to your question. long story short, plug the two GPU's into the PCIEx16_1 and PCIEX16_2 slots. Due to the odd spacing of the motherboard, Gigabyte was kind enough to shipp the board with a Xfire Bridge long eough to reach the cards connectors. Good luck lol.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## bicen

Anyone able to link me to the UD5 f7a bios beta driver? I would really appreciate it!

bicen


----------



## mxthunder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15535339*
> That's what it really looks like...
> I'm waiting for the actual motherboard to hit retail so I could RMA the board.
> Gigabyte would be very wise to exchange my board for 1.1.


Im with you all the way, but still trying to figure out a way to do this?

My blood boils just thinking about it.


----------



## ebduncan

I don't know about you guys but i was poking around in my case today, with the computer running.

Touched the northbridge it burned my finger. Vrm's are hot, but didn't burn me.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12775/vid-165/Deep_Cool_Nbridge_8_Northbridge_Chipset_Cooler.html

Thinking about ordering one of those. Mean while i just rigged up a old cpu fan i had laying around on top the heatsink. Temps have droped by 10c. Still hot though, at least it doesn't burn me on contact now.

my poor finger.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan;15546506*
> I don't know about you guys but i was poking around in my case today, with the computer running.
> 
> Touched the northbridge it burned my finger. Vrm's are hot, but didn't burn me.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12775/vid-165/Deep_Cool_Nbridge_8_Northbridge_Chipset_Cooler.html
> 
> Thinking about ordering one of those. Mean while i just rigged up a old cpu fan i had laying around on top the heatsink. Temps have droped by 10c. Still hot though, at least it doesn't burn me on contact now.
> 
> my poor finger.


yes, they are going to get hot lol. Dont touch it and your fine.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder;15546375*
> Im with you all the way, but still trying to figure out a way to do this?
> 
> My blood boils just thinking about it.


I haven't quite thought of what I would say to them, but when I do I'll PM you the outcome.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:



yes, they are going to get hot lol. Dont touch it and your fine.


well in my defense, i have never touched a north bridge heatsink which actually caused my finger to burn instantly.

Well that is until this one. MY old 790gx board the north bridge was cool to the touch, the VRM's were cool the touch. Also a gigabyte board. It had a all copper heat pipe cooler. Which interesting enough looks like it will fit my ud3. I might swap them out tomorrow if i have time.

If it doesn't work then i guess will order some custom sinks that will get the job done.

I might hold off though to see if i can RMA the board for revision 1.1 i mean i've had it less than 2 weeks now. I suppose i could use the overheating northbridge as a valid reason. Honestly if i didn't have a gaming pc case and ambient air temp was low, i have no doubt in my mind the north-bridge would crap out. Full load its in the mid 80's C. with a 22c ambient temp. Forbid i have a 30-35c environment that thing would bake.


----------



## Furball Zen

Thats a diff in the type of heatsink, the new ones arent designed to be very efficient thermally.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan;15553397*
> well in my defense, i have never touched a north bridge heatsink which actually caused my finger to burn instantly.
> 
> Well that is until this one. MY old 790gx board the north bridge was cool to the touch, the VRM's were cool the touch. Also a gigabyte board. It had a all copper heat pipe cooler. Which interesting enough looks like it will fit my ud3. I might swap them out tomorrow if i have time.
> 
> If it doesn't work then i guess will order some custom sinks that will get the job done.
> 
> I might hold off though to see if i can RMA the board for revision 1.1 i mean i've had it less than 2 weeks now. I suppose i could use the overheating northbridge as a valid reason. Honestly if i didn't have a gaming pc case and ambient air temp was low, i have no doubt in my mind the north-bridge would crap out. Full load its in the mid 80's C. with a 22c ambient temp. Forbid i have a 30-35c environment that thing would bake.


What program are you using to monitor temps? And dont worry about the 1.1 version for the UD3. Its a joke at best you gatta watch out with these UD3 boards, there are issue's with temp reading software. As in they give false temps, while your NB might be hot it might not be quite 80c. do you have it overclocked yet?


----------



## Furball Zen

Im looking at making a custom copper plate so you can use a MCW30 on the VRM's since you can use them on the NB and SB of the UD3/5's. But i need to either get my mobo first, or have someone send me their stock heatsink.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin;15547883*
> I haven't quite thought of what I would say to them, but when I do I'll PM you the outcome.


If our boards suddenly got damaged somehow they'd have to replace them


----------



## ebduncan

haha turns out today i went to turn on my computer it wouldn't post.

So i trouble shooted. Clear cmos remove cmos battery, that deal... still wouldn't post, so i started to remove things. I found the system would post with one memory stick installed. However wouldn't post with 2 memory sticks.

Tried various slots, both memory modules work just fine by themselves.

guess my board died. Prolly had something to do with the crazy temps i was experiencing on the north bridge. I setup a RMA and new motherboard is on its way out.

i knew something was wrong with my board. Now i can just hope i get revision 1.1 instead of 1.0


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan;15559093*
> haha turns out today i went to turn on my computer it wouldn't post.
> 
> So i trouble shooted. Clear cmos remove cmos battery, that deal... still wouldn't post, so i started to remove things. I found the system would post with one memory stick installed. However wouldn't post with 2 memory sticks.
> 
> Tried various slots, both memory modules work just fine by themselves.
> 
> guess my board died. Prolly had something to do with the crazy temps i was experiencing on the north bridge. I setup a RMA and new motherboard is on its way out.
> 
> i knew something was wrong with my board. Now i can just hope i get revision 1.1 instead of 1.0


Most odd. Did you have anything overclocked on the board? or have you made an attempt to run Memtest86 on the sticks of RAM in question?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Most odd. Did you have anything overclocked on the board? or have you made an attempt to run Memtest86 on the sticks of RAM in question?


both single sticks pass memtest. The system will just not allow me to run both sticks at the same time anymore. All tests were done at factory cmos settings.

System is limping along now with 1 stick of ram, and cpu at factory settings.

Its not that bad i just hope it doesn't completely crap out before the replacement is here. I will have to cross my fingers on that one.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan;15559393*
> both single sticks pass memtest. The system will just not allow me to run both sticks at the same time anymore. All tests were done at factory cmos settings.
> 
> System is limping along now with 1 stick of ram, and cpu at factory settings.
> 
> Its not that bad i just hope it doesn't completely crap out before the replacement is here. I will have to cross my fingers on that one.


dont quote me, but I think you'll have to send them your mobo for them to RMA it. Thus far I have spoken with Gigabyte coustomer service a time or two and they seem like a great company! good luck with your RMA.


----------



## ebduncan

never done a rma through gigabyte before.

And still haven't since it was less than 30 days purchase from new egg, did an advanced rma with them. So they already shipped a replacement board to me, soon as it comes i ship them the defective board back. I did speak with gigabyte tech support and they seemed to be somewhat helpful. However i don't feel if the solution they offered is the correct one.

Ie i called about my memory speed, they told me to disable c1e to clock the ram higher than 1333mhz, sounds like a work around, i rather leave c1e on as its a power saving feature.

Sure beats the Rma process of just about anyone.


----------



## Furball Zen

1900th reply ^^^


----------



## reisya

anyone can link for beta bios please ?

btw any from this club can break BCLK more than 300 ?

I use UD5 and got some test here, but always stack at BCLK and Freq Mem.


----------



## Sin0822

why do you want to break HTT of 300? on phenom ?


----------



## reisya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sin0822;15574039*
> why do you want to break HTT of 300? on phenom ?


reach more high freq but limit on multi. yes on 1055T.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reisya;15578427*
> reach more high freq but limit on multi. yes on 1055T.


not trolling, but why do you need to hit past 4.0? my system is screaming at 3.9Ghz.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15578448*
> Got the 960T yet?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes i saw the post


Nope. No need for more CPU untill after i Xfire If I wasn't going to crossfire, I wouldn't be upgrading my CPU. The 955 @3.9 dose more than I need it too lol.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15578580*
> Ok , another like in your sig? , btw 'Shader'


LOL, for the spelling, notice my sig I'm saving my money for when the Toxic comes back in stock, then I'm getting another for Xfire and eyefinity. Thats when I'll be picking up the 960t If BF3 wasn't so demanding I wouldn't be doing Xfire, or a CPU upgrade, this single card runs the crap out of BF3 on a single 1080p monitor.
But really, why do you want to go higher in your overclock?

EDIT: fixed "shadder" to Shader" just for you most of the time I don't go back and edit or correct spelling errors, so you should feel special!


----------



## reisya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15578434*
> not trolling, but why do you need to hit past 4.0? my system is screaming at 3.9Ghz.


just want to know how far i can reach freq with UD5.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reisya;15579421*
> just want to know how far i can reach freq with UD5.


I hate to say it, but you have pretty much hit the limit of that none BE chip. I dont think there is a mobo around that will allow you to take the OC further with out the ability to change to multi higher


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amdgig*


Yup i glanced at your sig when you mentioned gpu's , sounds all good









Overclock me







, but i was/am waiting for you to supply some majik numbers to pop in the bios







even though here seems all ok so far ..

Shadder made me shudder , and now i'm Preeecccious (like in the lordofthe rings)







thanks










 I has no magic* numbers for the 960T as of yet. In a month or two I might







still need to have a reason to upgrade the CPU







My 955 can handle one Toxic just fine, so when I Xfire I will be fiddling with a 960T








However I would just bump the multi







but I dont have any advice about Voltage on that CPU just yet







sorry.


----------



## Lordred

I have hit a FSB of 300+ so far on my UD5. But I have not done too much testing with it. I only did it for a run on my 1055T for a little bit of testing, then poped my 1100T back in.


----------



## otakunorth

Whats the best bios for my set up? i think im using f6e right now, but it is unstable at overclocks over 3.9, where the f3 bios was good over 4ghz

thanks


----------



## reisya

Quote:



Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*


I hate to say it, but you have pretty much hit the limit of that none BE chip. I dont think there is a mobo around that will allow you to take the OC further with out the ability to change to multi higher


owh.. but i can hit 310+ with only M4A88TD.
okay than my UD5 was sold today and wait my CHIV.

Thanks for respond


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *otakunorth*


Whats the best bios for my set up? i think im using f6e right now, but it is unstable at overclocks over 3.9, where the f3 bios was good over 4ghz

thanks


edit: using f6d right now

anyone?


----------



## Lordred

As am I


----------



## rawsteel

TMPIN0= North bridge
TMPIN1= CPU
TMPIN2= Coretemp


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel;15587149*
> TMPIN0= North bridge
> TMPIN1= CPU
> TMPIN2= Coretemp


gah, wrong....for the fith time in this thread.

Here is the correct temp sensors.

Can we get this posted on the front page of the club?

Sensors are the same for all 3 boards.


----------



## ebduncan

got my new board yesterday, and fired it up today.

I got revision 1.0 board, darn oh well. Seems my system runs cooler than the previous bad board. Going to start tinkering again tonight.

I noticed something else, the bad board has a foxconn cpu cpu socket, while the new board has a different brand one, forget what brand. certainly interesting.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15587193*
> gah, wrong....for the fith time in this thread.
> 
> Here is the correct temp sensors.
> 
> Can we get this posted on the front page of the club?
> 
> Sensors are the same for all 3 boards.


I'm amazed how many people still get this wrong


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k;15589189*
> I'm amazed how many people still get this wrong


Your telling me lol. I have posted this like 5 times lol.


----------



## tw33k

lol...eventually it will sink in


----------



## TitusPrime

Perhaps it's not sinking in because on my 990FXA-UD3 while all the temp monitoring programs are telling me that my northbridge is 31 degrees it is BURNING HOT to the touch.

It's perhaps this real-world experience counteracting the numbers displayed that cause people to get mixed up and try to work it out for themselves to make the numbers they see fit what thier hands are telling them.

I've seen a fair few people (even on here) mention how hot their NB heatsink is so it's not just me.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tw33k*


lol...eventually it will sink in


tw33k, you might be right that those are the sensors, but the problem is that TMPIN2 is inconsistent. I just changed out from a x4 955 to a x6 1090T and the temperature reading on that sensor has dropped dramatically. It used to idle at 40 and hit near [email protected] load. Now it idles in the low 30s and doesn't hit [email protected] load. This leads me to believe that this sensor is probably for the socket temperature. TMPIN1 you say is the processor, but it doesn't correspond to my processor temperature. When I used a laser thermometer to check my temperatures, TMP1N1 seemed to correspond more with my MOSFETs and TMPIN0 seemed to correspond with my North Bridge temp. I know that a laser thermometer isn't going to be that accurate since I'm taking the temperatures from the top of the heat sink and not from the chip. This was just my attempt to sort out which sensor was which.


----------



## otakunorth

sorry to sound like a broken record but all of my, (and many others) post are being ignored here.

I (and a few others) have been asking for advice on most stable bios for x6 overclocking as f6d that i have right now is costing me a lot of mhz

and other have been asking for a link to the latest beta

thanks


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *otakunorth*


sorry to sound like a broken record but all of my, (and many others) post are being ignored here.

I (and a few others) have been asking for advice on most stable bios for x6 overclocking as f6d that i have right now is costing me a lot of mhz

and other have been asking for a link to the latest beta

thanks


You said you could OC higher on the F3 BIOS? Did you have any issues with that BIOS? Have you tried F4 as well?


----------



## otakunorth

no it worked well, before I revert I just wanted to know if other bios have worked better for most

with my GA790X board each new revision helped my overclock, hasint been the same here


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *otakunorth*


no it worked well, before I revert I just wanted to know if other bios have worked better for most

with my GA790X board each new revision helped my overclock, hasint been the same here


Sadly I can't help much because I am using the UD3.







Every new BIOS seems to help with OCing on this mobo.


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


Sadly I can't help much because I am using the UD3.







Every new BIOS seems to help with OCing on this mobo.


oh well, thanks for the help
also do you know where to find the latest beta bios?

also congratz on 420 posts







+rep


----------



## kzone75

Quote:



Originally Posted by *otakunorth*


oh well, thanks for the help
also do you know where to find the latest beta bios?

also congratz on 420 posts







+rep


Thanks!









I would look in the Gigabyte Forum for a new BIOS. http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/board,6.0.html But I can't find any newer atm.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*


Perhaps it's not sinking in because on my 990FXA-UD3 while all the temp monitoring programs are telling me that my northbridge is 31 degrees it is BURNING HOT to the touch.

It's perhaps this real-world experience counteracting the numbers displayed that cause people to get mixed up and try to work it out for themselves to make the numbers they see fit what thier hands are telling them.

I've seen a fair few people (even on here) mention how hot their NB heatsink is so it's not just me.



Quote:



Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*


tw33k, you might be right that those are the sensors, but the problem is that TMPIN2 is inconsistent. I just changed out from a x4 955 to a x6 1090T and the temperature reading on that sensor has dropped dramatically. It used to idle at 40 and hit near [email protected] load. Now it idles in the low 30s and doesn't hit [email protected] load. This leads me to believe that this sensor is probably for the socket temperature. TMPIN1 you say is the processor, but it doesn't correspond to my processor temperature. When I used a laser thermometer to check my temperatures, TMP1N1 seemed to correspond more with my MOSFETs and TMPIN0 seemed to correspond with my North Bridge temp. I know that a laser thermometer isn't going to be that accurate since I'm taking the temperatures from the top of the heat sink and not from the chip. This was just my attempt to sort out which sensor was which.


 This has been beat to death too. There are problems with temp monitoring programs and these boards. the north bridge is GOING to be *hot* underload, the joy of the new 990 northbridge.
In my experiance, Open Hardware Monitor gives the most accurate temps. with AMD OverDrive and Hardware Monitor giving false readings(way to high).
for the record 50-60c is SAFE and NORMAL for the northbridge. and due to 50c being 122f its going to feel hot to the human hand. its also good the the heatsink is hot, that means its pulling heat from the chip.

A few tips for checking temps:
1. The CPU stocket (TMPIN1) is going to be a little higher than the CPU core temps.
2. System Temp (Sytem (Motherboard) Temp) is going to stay pretty constant from load to idle.
3. use as many temp monitor programs you can get your hands on to see which programs give you bad temps, from my searching it seems it's random as to which programs are correct, or false. I use Open Hardware Monitor on this board. for me it has the most accurate temps.

Good luck guys!


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15595336*
> This has been beat to death too. There are problems with temp monitoring programs and these boards. the north bridge is GOING to be *hot* underload, the joy of the new 990 northbridge.
> In my experiance, Open Hardware Monitor gives the most accurate temps. with AMD OverDrive and Hardware Monitor giving false readings(way to high).
> for the record 50-60c is SAFE and NORMAL for the northbridge. and due to 50c being 122f its going to feel hot to the human hand. its also good the the heatsink is hot, that means its pulling heat from the chip.
> 
> A few tips for checking temps:
> 1. The CPU stocket (TMPIN1) is going to be a little higher than the CPU core temps.
> 2. System Temp (Sytem (Motherboard) Temp) is going to stay pretty constant from load to idle.
> 3. use as many temp monitor programs you can get your hands on to see which programs give you bad temps, from my searching it seems it's random as to which programs are correct, or false. I use Open Hardware Monitor on this board. for me it has the most accurate temps.
> 
> Good luck guys!


WOW - what a post.

I'd have expected something like that when trying to argue about religion.

What's happening here is people are being told to just accept what is being told WRT what sensors are for what yet when people try to scientifically work it out they are derided?

Basically what i'm reading here is that there is a problem reading the temps - fantastic may as well not bother with the sensors then.

Then i'm being told that the temperature of the northbridge is perfectly normal - not only is the northbridge operating at a temperature that causes FX to throttle itself back, every review of the 990 boards state (and they go to great pains about this) that the NB chip is fundamentally no different from the 890 series. None of my 890 boards had as hot a NB as this (even the GX) so what has been done wrong here?

If nothing else this little furnace is dumping EVEN MORE HEAT into a case that now has to deal with a toasty FX as well.

Specifically on the temps shown, no-matter what program i use the outputs do not conform to what is being taken as gospel.

TMPIN0; I can accept as a MB sensor as it only moves by a few degrees - idle or stressing
TMPIN1; Tracks CPU core temps within 1 or 2 degrees so i can acccept CPU socket
TMPIN2; When idle the temperature is reported as low (30 or under) but the heatsink is very hot to the touch. The minute i start stressing the temperature shoots up instantaneously.

Funnily enough, using the unscientific finger method the heatsink that does go from warm to blistering is the VRM heatsink.

People keep saying that the UD3 has the same sensors as the UD5 and UD7. When i look at the UD5 and UD7 i see they have heatpipes joining NB and VRM heatsinks then it's possible that the temp is actually being measured at the VRM but an assumption is made that the heatpipe join equalises the temps so someone 'could' argue that it's NB that's being measured....even at the VRM heatsink.

This is just an assumption or an attempt to explain away the multiple examples of people trying to work this out using some sort of scientific method instead of just 'because we told you so' where the numbers just don't fit.

Either the sensors are rubbish (another fail then from Gigabyte to go with all the voltage stability nonsense), the software is rubbish (for FX i can believe but for a chipset that's a rebadged 890/850 i can't) or the TMPIN are not arranged as we are told they are.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime;15596816*
> WOW - what a post.
> 
> I'd have expected something like that when trying to argue about religion.
> 
> What's happening here is people are being told to just accept what is being told WRT what sensors are for what yet when people try to scientifically work it out they are derided?
> 
> Basically what i'm reading here is that there is a problem reading the temps - fantastic may as well not bother with the sensors then.
> 
> Then i'm being told that the temperature of the northbridge is perfectly normal - not only is the northbridge operating at a temperature that causes FX to throttle itself back, every review of the 990 boards state (and they go to great pains about this) that the NB chip is fundamentally no different from the 890 series. None of my 890 boards had as hot a NB as this (even the GX) so what has been done wrong here?
> 
> If nothing else this little furnace is dumping EVEN MORE HEAT into a case that now has to deal with a toasty FX as well.
> 
> Specifically on the temps shown, no-matter what program i use the outputs do not conform to what is being taken as gospel.
> 
> TMPIN0; I can accept as a MB sensor as it only moves by a few degrees - idle or stressing
> TMPIN1; Tracks CPU core temps within 1 or 2 degrees so i can acccept CPU socket
> TMPIN2; When idle the temperature is reported as low (30 or under) but the heatsink is very hot to the touch. The minute i start stressing the temperature shoots up instantaneously.
> 
> Funnily enough, using the unscientific finger method the heatsink that does go from warm to blistering is the VRM heatsink.
> 
> People keep saying that the UD3 has the same sensors as the UD5 and UD7. When i look at the UD5 and UD7 i see they have heatpipes joining NB and VRM heatsinks then it's possible that the temp is actually being measured at the VRM but an assumption is made that the heatpipe join equalises the temps so someone 'could' argue that it's NB that's being measured....even at the VRM heatsink.
> 
> This is just an assumption or an attempt to explain away the multiple examples of people trying to work this out using some sort of scientific method instead of just 'because we told you so' where the numbers just don't fit.
> 
> Either the sensors are rubbish (another fail then from Gigabyte to go with all the voltage stability nonsense), the software is rubbish (for FX i can believe but for a chipset that's a rebadged 890/850 i can't) or the TMPIN are not arranged as we are told they are.


I have contatced GIGABYTE CS over the temp issue twice now. 55-65c for load is fine and dandy. Call them if you distrust this info. And if you took the time to read this thread, it has been said many times. many many many times. I'm not making this crap up.

As for you comment of religion, your in the wrong place my friend. This is OCN.net, a fourm for science and tech, not mystic mombo jumo.
I clearly stated "There is a problem with temp monitoring software and these boards". gigabyte is aware of this. I do not know if they plan to fix this or not.
As for you comment about the NB sensor reading a low temp. well that's simple, download a few different programs to see what they say. as I said before each mobo has a different reaction to temp programs, some people get correct temps with AMD overdrive, I don't. I also don't get the right temps in Hardware Monitor(CPUID Version) it reports temps over 125c on my north bridge. As we know this would be impossible, the PCB would melt, the PC would blue screen and all kinds of havoc would happen.
If your worried about the high temps of the NB chipset, there are a few things you can do, all of which have been posted in this thread by other members experiencing the exact same issue.


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing;15596937*
> SNIP.......


People who had UD5 and UD7 from the get-go contacted Gigabyte about the Vcore fluctuations and kept getting fed the same line about following AMD's design recommendations and there was no problem.....then Gigabyte quietly released new versions containing the features that they said were not needed. LLC anyone?

If you want to blindly follow the advice of a company who will not admit mistakes but slyly fix them in the background then go ahead.

50-60 degrees might be fine for them - they don't need to worry about the heat pollution into the case and don't seem to be bothered that what they say is being reported doesn't react (forget the absolute measurement here) the way the real temp of the heatsink does....the T delta from idle to load.

I never suggested you were making it up, i'm questioning why we should believe what Giga have said....not what you have said.

PCB won't melt at 125C. The solder these days doesn't melt properly until 200C with some requiring 250C as it is now lead free.

My comment about religion went completely over your head and your reply made my point perfectly. The people who are still questioning whether what Giga says and trying to work it out from the numbers are practising science, those who are blindly accepting what someone says when the measurement dispute the assertion are practising religion. You say this is a forum of science yet you are believing what you are told even though it doesn't add up? Religion or Science?

Gigabyte - just like nVidia, Sony, Toyota, Apple and any other major corporation with this problem in the recent past - will tell you ANYTHING to avoid a mass recall of parts that will cost them money. If we have stumbled across design issues of course they will spin us a line. I was stunned when Intel recalled MB because of the southbridge SATA problem...hats off to them.....but here Giga have done all sorts of wrong.

I'll stop here (have the last word if you wish, i won't be replying on this topic) but suffice to say that in many instances on different things Gigabyte have not covered themselves in glory on this version of boards and i can only hope that they are beavering away as we type on these issues. If they don't they'll lose punters and that's the last thing they need with the economy the way it is.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime;15597493*
> People who had UD5 and UD7 from the get-go contacted Gigabyte about the Vcore fluctuations and kept getting fed the same line about following AMD's design recommendations and there was no problem.....then Gigabyte quietly released new versions containing the features that they said were not needed. LLC anyone?
> 
> If you want to blindly follow the advice of a company who will not admit mistakes but slyly fix them in the background then go ahead.
> 
> 50-60 degrees might be fine for them - they don't need to worry about the heat pollution into the case and don't seem to be bothered that what they say is being reported doesn't react (forget the absolute measurement here) the way the real temp of the heatsink does....the T delta from idle to load.
> 
> I never suggested you were making it up, i'm questioning why we should believe what Giga have said....not what you have said.
> 
> PCB won't melt at 125C. The solder these days doesn't melt properly until 200C with some requiring 250C as it is now lead free.
> 
> My comment about religion went completely over your head and your reply made my point perfectly. The people who are still questioning whether what Giga says and trying to work it out from the numbers are practising science, those who are blindly accepting what someone says when the measurement dispute the assertion are practising religion. You say this is a forum of science yet you are believing what you are told even though it doesn't add up? Religion or Science?
> 
> Gigabyte - just like nVidia, Sony, Toyota, Apple and any other major corporation with this problem in the recent past - will tell you ANYTHING to avoid a mass recall of parts that will cost them money. If we have stumbled across design issues of course they will spin us a line. I was stunned when Intel recalled MB because of the southbridge SATA problem...hats off to them.....but here Giga have done all sorts of wrong.
> 
> I'll stop here (have the last word if you wish, i won't be replying on this topic) but suffice to say that in many instances on different things Gigabyte have not covered themselves in glory on this version of boards and i can only hope that they are beavering away as we type on these issues. If they don't they'll lose punters and that's the last thing they need with the economy the way it is.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15597672*
> Ok TitusPrime , i had a look like i said i would , the comps been on for 3 hours now reading here and looking about the net and all that , i have a digital multimeter with a accurate temperature probe , so i quickly pulled the side cover and measured first with me finger and then if needed with the probe , it was needed! , i have a 120mm high flow side fan so that's why the quickly remark also.
> 
> Temp with finger = 5 seconds is painful
> Temp with m/m probe 53c
> 
> That is on the smallish heatsink just below the CPU , the VRM heatsink was not even warm , same goes for the one down inbetween the GPUS (southbridge? i think it's called) .
> 
> You are not alone , now


You guys are making a big fuss about nothing. Your going to have to show me proof that a north bridge operating at 5x or 6xc is our of line. This is like *****ing that a GPU runs at 80c under load. I'm sorry but I'm going to have to trust one of the biggest motherboard manufacturer's over some one on this thread. If you don't like it, i suggest you steer away from 990FX based boards.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Furball Zen

Thermalright IFX is the ONLY aftermarket (still made, the Thermaltake Spirit also fits) that would fit on my DFI NB, but i think the Gigabytes have more room. But still, hands down the best chipset cooler this side of WC.

http://www.xoxide.com/thermalright-ifx-chipset-cooler.html


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Furball Zen

Well the NB sink on the DFI 790FX was only 28mm square and the pins were center to center only 48mm. Any chipset cooler i could find was at least 35mm wide with pins set at 52mm minimum. The 790FXA UD3/5's look about 65-70mm (just guessing from pics), the widest span of the Swiftech MCW30 which is 55-70mm IIRC

Here is a good pic showing both studs i used and the custom bracket i made to mount it on the 790FXB VRM/NB assembly, you can barely see the chipset under it, and the IFX is just about centered


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Furball Zen

They come with 80mm fan clips too.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15600866*
> Betcha it's happening right now as we type
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that is , Gigabyte and others in the lab making or made and testing a motherbord that has WC inbuilt!
> 
> All one does is plug in a rad and a pump onto "onboard" sockets/barbs and away you go , the vrm/nb/sb are all interconnected by copper pipes in series or something like that .
> 
> Betcha


left feild mate, lol. It would be nice if they offerd a board like that though. I know EVGA and PowerCooler offer water blocks preinstalled on GPU's...but you would have to be a screw loose to buy the power cooler card...its just an EK block pre installed. EVGA put a custom made block on their cards.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amdgig*


Watchu talkin about willis?

Do you mean that a W/C motherboard actually is needed as they get HOT or is it just a nice feature and looks nice but really not needed









Its center field , and i'll cut you some slack with further discussions on this particular subject , as i have not mentioned the current refridgeration testing also going on....


 lol, If you guys would like to spend time and money "fixing" a problem that dose not exist, go for it







but temps in the 50's are fine. All 990FX NB's run in that temp range, pending on case cooling.

You could swap out the TIM with a high quality TIM(shin etsu,ICD,ChillFactor) and do the washer trick. some where in this thread there is a member who dropped his temps a few C by turning off his PC and pushing down hard on the NB heatsink to "re seat" it.

I will say if there was a full covrage water block for these boards I would get it for my water loop I'm doing, but that would only for for looks and *THE E-PEEN!!!*


----------



## Furball Zen

Im watercooling, because i have the stuff and because its a widely known fact that when hot things run cool, the last longer. Just sayin...


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15603536*
> http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1161772-what-your-990fx-northbridge-temps.html , started 11 hours ago
> 
> A quick word if you still read here TitusPrime , what you think? without being yaknow ...


Hi amdgig, still reading and watching the various chatter.

I did say that i wouldn't comment further but as you have asked me directly to not reply to you would be rude.

You're absolutely correct i have no actual real-world 'measured by a meter' temperature readings. I do have my fingers though which are pretty sensitive and can detect substantial changes in temperature. I can tell when something is hotter than before or is hotter relative to something else.....as can anyone else with a functioning finger so everyone knows exactly what i am talking about and this isn't some sort of unexplained dark magic.

My position is that what i'm being told (by people who are asking the authority figures) does not reflect real-life as measured by my fingers and comprehended by my brain taking all the factors into account to try to come to a correct conclusion. I could be losing my marbles but i doubt that.

Forget the absolute numbers - it could be 50 degrees or 500 degrees.

What is being measured by the TMPIN2 sensor is reporting as cool when the PC is idle. The temperature reported by this sensor then doubles instantaneously when i run a stress program.

What is being measured by my finger sensor is that when the PC is idle the NB is too hot to touch for more than a few seconds and the VRM is merely warm. When i run a stress program the NB temp (as measured by my finger) STAYS THE SAME whereas the VRM heatsink (as measure by my finger) GETS MUCH HOTTER.

I don't think the NB does much more work while the CPU stressing program is running (and so will not get that much hotter when used more) whereas the VRM definitely does more work as the CPU is now consuming so much more juice.....hundreds of watts more juice all of which passes through the VRM and NOT the NB.

There is a temperature delta happening here. Even if the software is wrong it would register a delta. On the NB there is no substantial finger temperature delta, on the VRM there is a temperature delta. On the software there is a delta.

Based on this very primitive scientific method what would you say is really being measured by TMPIN2?

That is enough for me to question the assertion of what TMPIN2 is measuring.

Couple that with the nonsense Gigabyte have already told UD5/UD7 users about LLC i'm becoming less and less inclined to believe what the customer support people are telling folk.

It seems that the crux of the absolute measurements are being hung onto here while no-one REALLY knows what the measured values are referring to. Then lots of 'reasons' are concocted - duff software, sensors faulty etc - to fit the position that has been 'told' by customer support. Substitute 'god moves in mysterious ways' for the reasons and Gigabyte Customer Services for 'the Church' (they don't really have a direct line to God) and you see where my religion analogy came from. Unexplained events that have explanations that don't stand up to scrutiny are rife in all religions and everyone is just expected to believe. And if you question it then you feel the wrath of everyone who doesn't want to question and feel more comfortable being told how it works - whether that's right or wrong they don't care as long as it just 'is'.

On the other thread you've linked to it comes across to me as being started by someone who has had their hypothesis rattled (i think they may have been questioning Gigabyte customer services anyway before i came along - why else would you call them twice on the same issue if you believed their explanation?) and is seeking some reassurance from their peers. Unfortunately the approach is still a bit unscientific so that thread will go the same way as this one with no real conclusion as it's not seeking to establish the truth but to provide comfort in an unproven hypothesis. I can see at least one contributor to that thread is thinking along the same lines i am. I can also see similar statements to the wrath i mentioned before in religion.

With my scientific finger sensor i'd say that the NB may well be around the 50-60 degrees mark. As i don't have a calibrated temperature measuring instrument i can't argue precisely what the temperatures are and no would i try to since that would then also make me guilty of peddling mistruths.....which is exactly the discussion we're having.

My finger sensor tells me that the toasty NB (which temperature doesn't change significantly between idle and load) feels like the same temperature as the VRM does when i'm stressing the CPU (but the VRM is much cooler when not stressing). As TMPIN2 on my system goes from 30 degrees (idle) to 57 degrees (stressing/load) then yes i could hypothesise that the NB is around 50-60 degrees as you say.

While i think this is too high that's not why i first posted.

For me, the software looks to me measuring correctly but not the item i'm being led to believe it's measuring.

I first posted because it looks to me that it's not the NB that's being measured yet that's being stated as fact. My own derived 'facts' dispute the other stated 'facts'.

I'm sure you can have a stab at a minimum age bracket for me if i tell you that my computing journey started in December 1983 when Santa gave me a Commodore 64 for my Christmas. I've had many variations of computer hardware in-between then and now.........dunno what that says about me or 15-20 year olds and i think i've added enough controversy to this thread already so i'll leave that to the reader's imagination









I think i've addressed your points so i'll leave it there. If you have any more questions (or more welcome...logical information) for me then PM me.


----------



## Furball Zen

^^Same as me on the C64, except it was my friends brother, and the year before







Remember Archon II?


----------



## TitusPrime

Never had Archon unfortunately. First game was 'Monty on the Run' and then had all the usual classics thereafter. I kept getting drawn back to 'Beach Head' even though i was absolutely rubbish at it!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig;15603536*
> http://www.overclock.net/amd-motherboards/1161772-what-your-990fx-northbridge-temps.html , started 11 hours ago
> 
> A quick word if you still read here TitusPrime , what you think? without being yaknow ...
> 
> No mention of the actual temperature of the heatsink , measured with a meter , which will be/"is" the chip , just the sensor reading which is far lower , half the information .
> 
> Then the way it's put , Freaking out! , was you too? , massive paranioa on the thread it's typing about and refering too .
> 
> See it's temp? , what you reckon , a exaggerated understatement , it itself says all around 50c , but it's?
> 
> No mention of ever having to adjust the parameters in Open Hardware Monitor to get the CPU reading correct that i have seen and seems to ignore it , as stock it's nearly 15c low and most would take it as carte blanc that it is correct .
> 
> Right now OHM says 34c , the IC is actually 53c and at idle , but i am personally far from freaking out , such a dishonest thing to do , i start to wonder if there is a GB sales kickback motive ...
> 
> I do not understand the Age sounding also , but 15?yo 20 tops...
> A Proof agenda , scientific at that , funnyist thing i seen for ages , and still after 15minutes later i'll have to go and take another look to see if i was seeing things!


You posted that thread before I could. However it speaks for its self. The NB on 990FX boards run hot and not just on our board. I will now be bowing out of this "discussion". good luck to you on this.


----------



## Furball Zen

NB on my 790FX ran hot till i WC'd it.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:



Originally Posted by *amdgig*


Thank you for your reply , i had hoped you would as you have done well with it , un-deliberatly imo ..

So to keep it short as we might be freaking out , all your points are valid plus more inbetween the lines for me .

Heatsink 50's c is not being reported , a much lower one is..Simple!

One day soon as i really could not be bothered and all that , i'll rig up the temp probe for a permanent reading for a day and stress the comp to see what happens , it's starting to warm up locally here (32c today) so it's due for a look so i'll know the difference when i put on that NB cooler.

I am slightly annoyed the way that "other" thread implied that in some way there is something wrong about your opinion , a very underhanded slur imo in many ways , i can be called anything , i do not care , as long as i am not called late for lunch , simple as that for me , but occasionally i come across the no calls for lunch for others , that sometimes i take part in the recall!









Thanks for your input , Ava good day .


 Underhanded slur? no. I wanted to see what other 990FX boards temps where. If you find it underhanded I'm sorry. Fact is, there will be no recall on this board. Gigabyte has already released a second revision of the UD3. funny thing was there where no fix's with the NB, or the heatsink in that revision. They only changed the SATA controller.

Titus has not proved that there is a problem with the NB at 50c yet. If you can I will gladly shut up. But untill then I have to side with Gigabyte techs on this one.


----------



## kzone75

Received the FX-8120 earlier today. I got 210â‚¬ poorer. Haven't spent too much time with it yet, but I am here http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2088336 right now. Had to reboot a couple of times until the BIOS showed the correct voltage. It said first that the normal CPU v is 1.426v. None of the monitor programs show the correct temps. Aero won't work either, but I am guessing it's memory related somehow. 
But the motherboard seems to do well, so I look forward to see what I can do with this chip.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:



Originally Posted by *kzone75*


Received the FX-8120 earlier today. I got 210â‚¬ poorer. Haven't spent too much time with it yet, but I am here http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2088336 right now. Had to reboot a couple of times until the BIOS showed the correct voltage. It said first that the normal CPU v is 1.426v. None of the monitor programs show the correct temps. Aero won't work either, but I am guessing it's memory related somehow. 
But the motherboard seems to do well, so I look forward to see what I can do with this chip.










kzone, try running windows experience index. It should make Aero work properly. I've had that issue with new builds too.


----------



## Zeek

Did some tweaking to my OC. Pretty happy with the board even though I didnt get BD...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zeek;15626741*
> Did some tweaking to my OC. Pretty happy with the board even though I didnt get BD...


pretty slick! that a nice OC you got there.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1;15623488*
> kzone, try running windows experience index. It should make Aero work properly. I've had that issue with new builds too.


It wouldn't complete WEI. Said it can not measure video playback performance. Unistalled VLC and some codecs. Seems to be working fine now. Cannot understand why they would cause any issues all of a sudden. They've been working fine before.








Was able to do a WEI run now. 7.7 on the cpu and both graphic tests and 7.9 for the memory and SSD. Not that it matters much..


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## boostinsteve

Has anyone noticed that the f5 bios for the ud3 has a lot of quirks when adjusting the bus clock speed? If it remains 200, it is fine, but if you start to adjust, it becomes a gamble if the overclock will be stable. I ask because I was able to get more stability from the f4 bios.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve*
> 
> Has anyone noticed that the f5 bios for the ud3 has a lot of quirks when adjusting the bus clock speed? If it remains 200, it is fine, but if you start to adjust, it becomes a gamble if the overclock will be stable. I ask because I was able to get more stability from the f4 bios.


I use the f5 BIOS. no instability issue's here. OC to 3.9 was easy just had to bump multi and add some voltage.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

You have to remenber that F5 BIOS is ment to be use with BD chips... Thats why you must use F4 in order to max performance when using 4 and 6 cores chip from previous generation.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Furball Zen

The stock coolers they (any manu) put on NB's are usually a joke.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Furball Zen

Well if you take care of your mobo itll last longer, but yea it wouldnt take much more money to make a good heat conductor.


----------



## Voliminal_8

Hey guys, I have a -ud3, and I'm havin a problem with my boot, if you can help check this out: http://www.overclock.net/t/1165186/ga-990fxa-ud3-what-did-i-do-with-my-boot-set-up-plz-help


----------



## Lordred

To the person who as asking about hitting 300FSB, here I forgot to post this for you. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2097062

This is not attempting any OC, just the 300FSB.


----------



## killerbyte

I have a new custom built PC.
CPu amd 8150 , mobo gigabyte 990ud5 . and ati 6870 gpu. jawskill 4x2-8gb dd3 , and input/output devices. with 600power supply. I set everything up and the system is running . All devices are powered on , and the cpu case controllers are working. The issue is that when i use either HDMI or DVI to connect to monitor ----more info ---the monitor does receive a signal from the PC but the PC is not outputting anything. I also notice that when i unplug all the power cable from the gpu the pc fans runs faster. but im not sure what this means. im lost because the mobo does not have an integrated gpu. ... at the moment I'm lost ......

Additional Details
more info- I have a samsung sa700 3d monitor. This is my 4th PC build so I am not new at how to set things up... I have a DVI-D dual and single cable. the monitor is only dvi-d while the gpu has both.Also the monitor has HDMI. I tired using both cords and nothing work, I know the cords work because im using my apple miniport to display on the samsung monitor. I cant get into the bios . The only thing in my case is the mobo ,vga , cpu ,psw , mem, i have keyboard and mouse plug in. . ( of course i tired placing the card in the other slots) as well the bios doesnt not alert me , meaning i hear no beeps.. the sound thingy that came with the mobo doesn't work and the case sound doesn't work either. ..

I could take a pic if u like.....


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerbyte*
> 
> I have a new custom built PC.
> CPu amd 8150 , mobo gigabyte 990ud5 . and ati 6870 gpu. jawskill 4x2-8gb dd3 , and input/output devices. with 600power supply. I set everything up and the system is running . All devices are powered on , and the cpu case controllers are working. The issue is that when i use either HDMI or DVI to connect to monitor ----more info ---the monitor does receive a signal from the PC but the PC is not outputting anything. I also notice that when i unplug all the power cable from the gpu the pc fans runs faster. but im not sure what this means. im lost because the mobo does not have an integrated gpu. ... at the moment I'm lost ......
> Additional Details
> more info- I have a samsung sa700 3d monitor. This is my 4th PC build so I am not new at how to set things up... I have a DVI-D dual and single cable. the monitor is only dvi-d while the gpu has both.Also the monitor has HDMI. I tired using both cords and nothing work, I know the cords work because im using my apple miniport to display on the samsung monitor. I cant get into the bios . The only thing in my case is the mobo ,vga , cpu ,psw , mem, i have keyboard and mouse plug in. . ( of course i tired placing the card in the other slots) as well the bios doesnt not alert me , meaning i hear no beeps.. the sound thingy that came with the mobo doesn't work and the case sound doesn't work either. ..
> I could take a pic if u like.....


Your PSU doesn't have enough juice. I did a quick search for minimum power requirements for generic 6870 GPUs and it ranges between 500w - 650w just after looking at a few of them. That coupled with your 8150 [which is rated as a 125w CPU...] puts you at 625w already with the minimum GPU requirements.

This would explain the issues you are having.

You should check the minimum power requirements for your GPU, add 125w for your CPU and add at least another 50w for the rest of your system components/fans. [or +100w if you plan on using an after market cooler like a water cooler]

If you plan on running XFire any time then I'd suggest a minimum of an 850w PSU or to be completely safe, just get a 1000w.

Good Luck,


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve*
> 
> Has anyone noticed that the f5 bios for the ud3 has a lot of quirks when adjusting the bus clock speed? If it remains 200, it is fine, but if you start to adjust, it becomes a gamble if the overclock will be stable. I ask because I was able to get more stability from the f4 bios.


On BIOS F4 or F5 I can't get a clean boot playing with my bus even with under clocking everything to remain par with stock clocks on a higher bus and voltages set to auto... not even a bus of 205... weird.









Any suggestions would be appreciated but not expected. I am stable just using multipliers but would like to be able to tweak a little bit more out of my OC.

Thanks,


----------



## piggos

*My RIG is:*
MB: 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0, F5 Bios
CPU: 960T (with Antec Kohler 620x2fans)
Corsair Vengeance 1600C9 4x4GB
5850 CF Sapphire
Seasonic M12D-750W
Antec P182

It seems I got a good one. Both cores unlocked successfully wo any problems so far. Managed to OC to 4GHz with the following:
*Core Speed: 4.0*
FSB: 206
Multi: 19,5
VCore: 1.5
CPU NB VID Control: 1.225
Temp: Max 49 through Easy Tune6 readings under prime95 load.
Prime95/OCCT stable. Haven't tested with games yet.



But due to high VCore, I decided to go lower under 24/7 usage:
*Core Speed: 3.8*
FSB: 200
Multi: 19
VCore: 1.375
CPU NB VID Control: 1.225
Temp: Max 42 through Easy Tune6 readings under prime95 load
Prime95/OCCT stable. Haven't tested with games yet.



The question is ΝΒ speed. I can get 2.6GHz (13x multi) with 1.195 ΝΒ voltage. Anything over this number, PC freezes under Prime95. Should I try higher (V)? Will I gain anything more, if I stress it to the 3.0GHz limit I read in the forums?

Also, should I tweak this?

- CPU PLL Voltage Control

Finally should I try better with the f4 BIOS?

Thanks in advance


----------



## boostinsteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krutonious Maximus*
> 
> On BIOS F4 or F5 I can't get a clean boot playing with my bus even with under clocking everything to remain par with stock clocks on a higher bus and voltages set to auto... not even a bus of 205... weird.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions would be appreciated but not expected. I am stable just using multipliers but would like to be able to tweak a little bit more out of my OC.
> Thanks,


I had to drop my multiplier down and run over 265 bclk speed in order to get it to be stable. Right now I am at 308x12.5. It seems to be real stable, and runs real nice. Try that to make it better, and roll back to the F4 bios for what seems to be a little more stability.

Just noticed something funny in CPU-Z. My 1090T is being reported as a 1095T, anyone ever seen this?


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve*
> 
> I had to drop my multiplier down and run over 265 bclk speed in order to get it to be stable. Right now I am at 308x12.5. It seems to be real stable, and runs real nice. Try that to make it better, and roll back to the F4 bios for what seems to be a little more stability.


I will try that at some point this week, back to work though so don't know how much time I'll have until my days off.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boostinsteve*
> 
> Just noticed something funny in CPU-Z. My 1090T is being reported as a 1095T, anyone ever seen this?


Hmmm, that is strange... Have you validated your CPU-Z yet so you can post a link to show? That would be interesting to see.









And PS: Love the avatar, we should start a drunken monkey club lolz.









Cheers,


----------



## Lordred

Testing out low voltage runs.
3624mhz @ 1.232v
2600NB @ 1.1v
1333mhz DRam @ 1.4v 6-7-6 (rated for 2000mhz 9-9-9 1.65v)

I know alot of it has to do with how good the parts are, but the board's regulation system despite the V-drop under load, is constant, and does not fluctuate while under load.


----------



## Voliminal_8

This guy got 960T unlocked to 6 core and it's named 1600T, mine is like that: http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/2427/6core.png

All stock except cores.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## wannabe_modder

Ok well I have the UD3 Version and sorry to interrupt your unlocking/overclocking discussion.

my question is regarding the realtek alc889. On my old mobo gigabyte 770ta-usb3 rev 1 I was able to enable Realtek Virtual Surround Enhancement. However with the new 990fxa-ud3 mobo, even with the latest driver from realtek theres no checkbox available. What gives? I honestly cant go through 199 pages just to find if this was mentioned.

Any input from other motherboard owners?

Help is greatly appreciated!

and on a side note, my normal cpu voltage is 1.4v in the bios for 955be C3. is this normal?


----------



## killerbyte

Sorry for this late reply ~ SO I got an email from gigabyte and they said it may because of the bios is not updated.....A gigabyte 990XFA UD5 not updated to support the cpu thats its targeted for..seriously , if that is the cause then that means i need to go back to Seoul and ask the dealer for help....ugh I don't have a spare non Fx cpu or lower ddr3 mem







. Anyway based on what you said previously I ordered a Coolermaster 800watt 80 plus gold Silent pro. Since I'll never buy more than one gpu or monitor I think that should suffice, not mention it can output up to 970watts~

But I'm still lost at this WATT load idle thing ~ I read max load for FX 8150 was 125? and ATI 6870 was 151 maybe 200 max load~ so thats 350 maybe altogether. with 250 to spare~ Here is my psu supply stats , can you tell me was it enough.

Corone 600 watts = Ac input 220V~240V 50/60 HZ
DC: +3.3 =28a , +5V=31A , +12v 1&2=17a , -12v=.5a ,+5sb=25a

If i know math then about 150 watts is dedicated to to 3.3 and 5 / with 350 to the cpu and gpu....hmmmm thats really close..

Anyway I haven't receive my psu yet so I'm waiting on that before I go the bios option.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wannabe_modder*
> 
> Help is greatly appreciated!
> and on a side note, my normal cpu voltage is 1.4v in the bios for 955be C3. is this normal?


Yes, 1.4v for a 955BE C3 is normal. That is what my chip was @ stock clock.
I only had to bump it up 0.05v to keep stable @ 3.825GHz.
I should be getting my H60 this week so I'll see if I can bump it higher with less voltage, here's to hopin...









Peace,


----------



## killerbyte

Dear customer,

990FXA-UD5 was released before FX processor released though. All our current shipment bios been updated for FX support. It could be somehow your current bios was from old shipment.
If system using high performance HD 6879 PCIE graphic, 650W or higher power supply is required.
Do attempt to put in a non FX processor check if board be able to boot that can update bios. If no non FX processor available, please whether replace board from vendor or submit RMA request online our service tech can help update bios to mother board.

Best regards,


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerbyte*
> 
> Dear customer,
> 
> 990FXA-UD5 was released before FX processor released though. All our current shipment bios been updated for FX support. It could be somehow your current bios was from old shipment.
> If system using high performance HD 6879 PCIE graphic, 650W or higher power supply is required.
> Do attempt to put in a non FX processor check if board be able to boot that can update bios. If no non FX processor available, please whether replace board from vendor or submit RMA request online our service tech can help update bios to mother board.
> 
> Best regards,


lol

PS: I was going to tell ya the same thing.


----------



## WMW

I didn't read the whole thread but someone on another thread said you can use the ud5 bios on a ud3? Anyone have any details? I have a ud3.


----------



## wannabe_modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Got this worked out yet?
> R/click vol control near clock , playback devices , speakers , properties , then the enhancement tab , in there is a virtual surround , that what you after?


no i know how to get there... I dont see the check box though... what gives? you can see it on urs? I have the latest driver too...

i wonder what dolby prologics ii does?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krutonious Maximus*
> 
> Yes, 1.4v for a 955BE C3 is normal. That is what my chip was @ stock clock.
> I only had to bump it up 0.05v to keep stable @ 3.825GHz.
> I should be getting my H60 this week so I'll see if I can bump it higher with less voltage, here's to hopin...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Peace,


thank you. I set mine to 1.35 on 3.6ghz and computer crashed while playing so put ti back to 1.4 np


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wannabe_modder*
> 
> no i know how to get there... I dont see the check box though... what gives? you can see it on urs? I have the latest driver too...
> i wonder what dolby prologics ii does?
> *thank you. I set mine to 1.35 on 3.6ghz and computer crashed while playing so put ti back to 1.4 np*


For a 955BE you can get away with 1.350 at the stock clock of 3.2. however if you want to OC at all your going to be at 1.40. Most all mobo's will set the 955BE at 1.40 to assist with overclocking, most of the 955's can get a good clock at that voltage, and at 1.45 it gets better. You can run up to 1.500 volts for a 24/7 OC, and some even push up to 1.550 volts, but that can be on the risky side of things. Hope this helps some.


----------



## wannabe_modder

thx for the input. now thats been cleared out of the way,
whats with no virtual speaker fill option in the sound manager... i had no problem with my last gigabyte mobo








should i try 32bit driver version? I have the 64 bit driver installed right now.

by all means i dont mind listening to 2.1 but might as well utilize the 2 at the back. hmm


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wannabe_modder*
> 
> thx for the input. now thats been cleared out of the way,
> whats with no virtual speaker fill option in the sound manager... i had no problem with my last gigabyte mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> should i try 32bit driver version? I have the 64 bit driver installed right now.
> by all means i dont mind listening to 2.1 but might as well utilize the 2 at the back. hmm


I'm not sure what you mean. We the exact same sound system I'm pretty sure, and I get 5.1 no problem, just have to change from Stereo to 5.1.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Yep it's there on this one , there are 4 listed , that's how i got to it , i never knew that stuff was there lol , everything stock here , but no extra speakers are plugged in the back , just in the green stereo ouput ,.
> bass boost
> virtual surround
> room correction
> loudness equalization


Well that make's sence. Most of that stuff dose not work on stereo set ups. You gatta plug in the wrest of the speakers for it to work right. I spent hours tweaking my system for BF3 and movies. The realtech audio is pretty snazzy








The only thing that sucks is the built in program disable's lots of options when you use head phones or 2.1 sound.


----------



## wannabe_modder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Yep it's there on this one , there are 4 listed , that's how i got to it , i never knew that stuff was there lol , everything stock here , but no extra speakers are plugged in the back , just in the green stereo ouput ,.
> bass boost
> virtual surround
> room correction
> loudness equalization


nope. i dont have it. honestly, if i saw it there, i woulnt even have posted it here?
on top of that i have more options than that and still dont have virtual surround

which BIOS version are u running? I see u have UD3 as well
also what driver version?


----------



## facebeauty

Yup, what's your BIOS and driver version ? they're important issues.


----------



## killerbyte

So I put my new 800watt silent pro in the rig...same thing. I've concluded that the bios is old. This mobo packaging date was May 2011.....The bios update was August 2011 for am3+ ....and AM3 FX arrived October 2011 . Yea... thanks gigabyte. So I bought an Amd anthlon 2 X2 and 4gddr3 1066..I hope this will work :/ update soon...


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerbyte*
> 
> So I put my new 800watt silent pro in the rig...same thing. I've concluded that the bios is old. This mobo packaging date was May 2011.....The bios update was August 2011 for am3+ ....and AM3 FX arrived October 2011 . Yea... thanks gigabyte. So I bought an Amd anthlon 2 X2 and 4gddr3 1066..I hope this will work :/ update soon...


Hmm, well that bites although I'm more than sure you'd still have an issue with only 600w on your current system, BIOS issue or not. I'm running slightly lower requirement components on a 650w and feel like I'm pushing it a little close.








Glad I didn't go straight to FX although I would have been able to give you the right advice the first time around...








The Athlon should work like a charm.









Anyways, best of luck to you, keep us updated.

Cheers,


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wannabe_modder*
> 
> nope. i dont have it. honestly, if i saw it there, i woulnt even have posted it here?
> on top of that i have more options than that and still dont have virtual surround
> which BIOS version are u running? I see u have UD3 as well
> also what driver version?


F3 bios on the 990FXA-UD3 made the Dolby stuff on the Realtek chipset miraculously start working for me. Any bios before that (including F3 betas) and i couldn't find the options either.

Changelog for F3 final bios:

Touch BIOS support
Update CPU AGESA 0.0.9.2 for AM3+
Update Dolby Home Theater version

When this came out i also had to update the driver as well.


----------



## killerbyte

Life is a learning process. So short story... My AMd X2 250 arrived today but my lower memory ddr3 1066 didnt... I was sad. but i test it out any way with my 8gb ddr3 12800. It fail to work with the 8gb but with one dual channel 2gbddr3 , I was able to boot to my bios. And Amd said that 128000 wasnt supported with this cpu... Also that 600psu did work. However I think my PC is better with the 800wt 80gold. I had some problems after first with flashing till i realized usb legacy ...My PC should be fully ready for gaming later on tonight, Cant wait to benchmark some apps







After all I bought all this stuff two weeks ago.
Thanks for the input and Thanks gmarket for the fast delivery ~~!! ( I order one day and have it the next day !! It's almost on par with ACME co...)
IF any one lives in Korea it be nice to know...


----------



## Rebelord

So, I learned something about my UD7 last night.
I run all but 1 of my case fans off a single molex string off my PSU (CPU fans off motherboard). I also have a molex to sata adapter on that string plugged into the Sata connector on the motherboard for extra PCIe power. (Even though I only have 2 4890s)
Anywho, I wanted to quite down my case for a bit, plus the temps arent to bad ambient here. So, I unplugged the single molex string from my PSU, but left it in the case for later on.
Well, upon reboot, the fans that are running off that string are continuing to run?!? WTH? I was scratching my head for a minute there. Then I remembered that the Molex to Sata is still plugged into my motherboard. Unplug that, fans stop.
So, apparently that Sata connector on the motherboard, instead of just pulling power, can push it back out. Either through a loop in the circuitry or something.

Just some food for thought.

Rebelord


----------



## Furball Zen

Here's what Bill Me Later just bought









Item List:

1 x ($189.99) MB GIGABYTE | GA-990FXA-UD5 R
$189.99
________________________________________

1 x ($169.99) CPU AMD|6-CORE FX-6100 3.3G 14M R
$169.99
________________________________________

1 x ($89.99) MEM 4Gx4|CORSAIR CML16GX3M4A1600C9B
$89.99


----------



## Rebelord

Nvm, all is square.

Carry on.

Rebelord


----------



## ElkyJnr

this is a great board hence why i bought one.. can anyone help....

hey Ive just bought a new sysmet and built it from the ground up.. But when trying to overclock all i seem to do is underclock.. can anyone help please..
Here is what Ive got

Mobo: Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0 latest bios updated as of 18/11/11
Cpu: AMD 1075
Ram: 16gb DDR3 1333mhz
CPU Cooler: Thermaltake FRio OC
VGA: powercolor 6950 2gb (awaiting arrival of second to run in crossfire)
Case: Thermaltake Chaser MK1
PSU: Seasonic M12 620w Modular

anyone out there able to help to unleash some serious stable performance on this system with a step by step guide...

Thankyou so much...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> this is a great board hence why i bought one.. can anyone help....
> hey Ive just bought a new sysmet and built it from the ground up.. But when trying to overclock all i seem to do is underclock.. can anyone help please..
> Here is what Ive got
> Mobo: Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0 latest bios updated as of 18/11/11
> Cpu: AMD 1075
> Ram: 16gb DDR3 1333mhz
> CPU Cooler: Thermaltake FRio OC
> VGA: powercolor 6950 2gb (awaiting arrival of second to run in crossfire)
> Case: Thermaltake Chaser MK1
> PSU: Seasonic M12 620w Modular
> anyone out there able to help to unleash some serious stable performance on this system with a step by step guide...
> Thankyou so much...


What do you mean by underclock? if you have AMD's cool n quiet enabled your clock will adjust based on usage. So at idle your multi will drop down. Disable CnQ if it bugs you in the BIOS.


----------



## ElkyJnr

I can't seem to find the cool n quiet/turbo boost feature in bios for some odd reason..
yeah underclock windows picked it up after i tried overclocking at 2.6ghz..slower than factory settings


----------



## Furball Zen

Not sure why you would intentionally underclock these days.

LOL post 1111.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> I can't seem to find the cool n quiet/turbo boost feature in bios for some odd reason..
> yeah underclock windows picked it up after i tried overclocking at 2.6ghz..slower than factory settings


After flashing BIOS... did you clear the cmos? if you don't, do it. And if did do it again and start from stock settings. Please post results.

PS: And one more thing... leave the "unlock cores" option dissabled.


----------



## ElkyJnr

i didnt intentional underclock lol

i didnt do a flash bios i updated it via the software provided, so online...

So no I didnt clear cmos


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> i didnt intentional underclock lol
> i didnt do a flash bios i updated it via the software provided, so online...
> So no I didnt clear cmos


anytime you "change" BIOS regaurdless of how, its called "Flashing". Clearing the CMOS should be done after changing/flashing BIOS.


----------



## Krutonious Maximus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> this is a great board hence why i bought one.. can anyone help....
> hey Ive just bought a new sysmet and built it from the ground up.. But when trying to overclock all i seem to do is underclock.. can anyone help please..
> Here is what Ive got
> Mobo: Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0 latest bios updated as of 18/11/11
> Cpu: AMD 1075
> Ram: 16gb DDR3 1333mhz
> CPU Cooler: Thermaltake FRio OC
> VGA: powercolor 6950 2gb (awaiting arrival of second to run in crossfire)
> Case: Thermaltake Chaser MK1
> PSU: Seasonic M12 620w Modular
> anyone out there able to help to unleash some serious stable performance on this system with a step by step guide...
> Thankyou so much...


I couldn't help but notice that you are only running a 620w PSU and have a second 6950 on the way to run in Xfire.
I can't help but think that you don't have enough juice to run both with that PSU.
If this is your card then the minimum PSU requirements for 1 is a 500w PSU and your CPU is rated as a 125w. Adding this together, that's a 625w requirement already and might be why your getting underclocks in order for the system to run stable.
I would try a higher wattage PSU if you have one available, if not, throw in an older graphics card if you've got one and see if you're able to overclock now that the GPU isn't pulling so much wattage.
Anyways, only suggestions. If any other OCN members wanna chime in on whether or not his PSU has enough juice, I'd like to know too so I'm not just swinging in the dark.









Thanks,


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krutonious Maximus*
> 
> I couldn't help but notice that you are only running a 620w PSU and have a second 6950 on the way to run in Xfire.
> I can't help but think that you don't have enough juice to run both with that PSU.
> If this is your card then the minimum PSU requirements for 1 is a 500w PSU and your CPU is rated as a 125w. Adding this together, that's a 625w requirement already and might be why your getting underclocks in order for the system to run stable.
> I would try a higher wattage PSU if you have one available, if not, throw in an older graphics card if you've got one and see if you're able to overclock now that the GPU isn't pulling so much wattage.
> Anyways, only suggestions. If any other OCN members wanna chime in on whether or not his PSU has enough juice, I'd like to know too so I'm not just swinging in the dark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,


no, Power is fine, unless his is faulty. read me there are other power consomption test's out there to. 620w for 6950CF is fine. my 850w is total overkill for a CF set up.


----------



## Wenty

I'm running F5 and the board runs good now with stuff clocked.........







Did I say that I was happy too ???


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wenty*
> 
> I'm running F5 and the board runs good now with stuff clocked.........
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did I say that I was happy too ???


Thats always a great thing! I love my board too.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krutonious Maximus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> this is a great board hence why i bought one.. can anyone help....
> hey Ive just bought a new sysmet and built it from the ground up.. But when trying to overclock all i seem to do is underclock.. can anyone help please..
> Here is what Ive got
> Mobo: Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0 latest bios updated as of 18/11/11
> Cpu: AMD 1075
> Ram: 16gb DDR3 1333mhz
> CPU Cooler: Thermaltake FRio OC
> VGA: powercolor 6950 2gb (awaiting arrival of second to run in crossfire)
> Case: Thermaltake Chaser MK1
> PSU: Seasonic M12 620w Modular
> anyone out there able to help to unleash some serious stable performance on this system with a step by step guide...
> Thankyou so much...
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't help but notice that you are only running a 620w PSU and have a second 6950 on the way to run in Xfire.
> I can't help but think that you don't have enough juice to run both with that PSU.
> If this is your card then the minimum PSU requirements for 1 is a 500w PSU and your CPU is rated as a 125w. Adding this together, that's a 625w requirement already and might be why your getting underclocks in order for the system to run stable.
> I would try a higher wattage PSU if you have one available, if not, throw in an older graphics card if you've got one and see if you're able to overclock now that the GPU isn't pulling so much wattage.
> Anyways, only suggestions. If any other OCN members wanna chime in on whether or not his PSU has enough juice, I'd like to know too so I'm not just swinging in the dark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks,
Click to expand...

The 500W requirement isnt for the card, but for the whole system, the card may only draw another 100W or so. Still id like to err on the side of too much than just enough. Thats why my 3.5 year old 850W PSU will be used in my next build


----------



## Snotty

A good 500 watts at stock on 125 w cpu & 6950 maybe ok. Fans & hdd's galore , but overclocking cpu and/or gpu is going to stop it when 3d app starts








I just put a 955BE with a 9800gtx 512meg on a 790fxta ud5 (gamer girlfriends machine) I think it was a 500ish watt huntkey psu :s
Started 3dmark06 & "doink" shut down. Had an online read regarding performance of 9800gtx & ati 4850 /512meg. Noticed the ATI used less power. Replaced 9800gtx with 4850 & around 14k in 06 with cpu at 3.4ghz stock volts. No dramas 








Over time i have learnt , for my personal overclocked machines, the Power Supply has got to be a good stable unit in it's own right. Use the calculators to work out the proposed loads, even add 10% fudge factor , check as many reviews as you can read too.
Another way is to put it all together & if it trips , needs a bigger psu hehe

gl n hf


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerbyte*
> 
> So I put my new 800watt silent pro in the rig...same thing. I've concluded that the bios is old. This mobo packaging date was May 2011.....The bios update was August 2011 for am3+ ....and AM3 FX arrived October 2011 . Yea... thanks gigabyte. So I bought an Amd anthlon 2 X2 and 4gddr3 1066..I hope this will work :/ update soon...


You're using a 6870 right? So why the 800W PSU? Your system would run lovely with a decent 400W. My brother runs a 140W Athlon 6400+ dual core and an overclocked 5870 which uses a ton more power than a little 6870 and he only runs a poor quality 400W (his choice to run a poor quality PSU). Remember, the 6870 is only the 5770 replacement.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krutonious Maximus*
> 
> Hmm, well that bites although I'm more than sure you'd still have an issue with only 600w on your current system, BIOS issue or not. I'm running slightly lower requirement components on a 650w and feel like I'm pushing it a little close.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad I didn't go straight to FX although I would have been able to give you the right advice the first time around...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Athlon should work like a charm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, best of luck to you, keep us updated.
> Cheers,


You should revoke your advice. Even with crazy overclocks his system will never require more than a 600W.


----------



## killerbyte

I'm starting to think that you think getting a higher PSU will solve any pc issue....







I think alcohol would be my choice for any problem :?
I only bought a higher psu because my setup wasn't working and Sir Krutonious Maximus suggested I do so~ i came here for help thinking that " Giga 990 FXA owner would have the same issues..... but it seems I was slightly wrong :/ I'm a noob when it come to high end gaming syestem, I'm usually a mid range gamer- able to run most games but never high settings. But now since I gotz a bigger pay check.....

Anyway My PC is running fine. But I'm now having issue with loading a steam game. every time I load Dawn of War retribution. My PC freezes , then is crashes my video card which makes my PC force reboot. I know my card works with gaming because I have Final Fantasy 14 installed , I benchmark it and played it online for a duration on high setting with Mxa44. I also reinstalled DOW2 twice~ on my window 7 64. So my 6870 card isnt faulty even the HDMI audio and video works through the output ~ I have the latest drivers and I even installed the drivers from the cd it came with.... so no luck. I'm going to try a new windows 7 64 and 32 version when i get home. But maybe someone here had the same issue?

The errors said something of BSOD processors timing off *

My mobo bios is F6


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I'm starting to think that you think getting a higher PSU will solve any pc issue.... I think alcohol would be my choice for any problem :?
> I only bought a higher psu because my setup wasn't working and Sir Krutonious Maximus suggested I do so~ i came here for help thinking that " Giga 990 FXA owner would have the same issues..... but it seems I was slightly wrong :/ I'm a noob when it come to high end gaming syestem, I'm usually a mid range gamer- able to run most games but never high settings. But now since I gotz a bigger pay check.....
> 
> Anyway My PC is running fine. But I'm now having issue with loading a steam game. every time I load Dawn of War retribution. My PC freezes , then is crashes my video card which makes my PC force reboot. I know my card works with gaming because I have Final Fantasy 14 installed , I benchmark it and played it online for a duration on high setting with Mxa44. I also reinstalled DOW2 twice~ on my window 7 64. So my 6870 card isnt faulty even the HDMI audio and video works through the output ~ I have the latest drivers and I even installed the drivers from the cd it came with.... so no luck. I'm going to try a new windows 7 64 and 32 version when i get home. But maybe someone here had the same issue?
> 
> The errors said something of BSOD processors timing off *
> 
> My mobo bios is F6


Total War Retro

has problems on the Amd FX series of processors. I don't personally own this game, but alot of users with FX processors are having this problem.
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1645506

However if your not using a Fx processor then you should be fine. In that case run your computer through a wattage calculator online, and see if you have the correct size power supply, and is of decent quality (of coarse you can use a muti-meter to measure the draw on the 12 rails and cpu rail. If this is not a problem, then move on to ram sticks, do a mem test. If you pass the mem test. Then un-install all video drivers, run a driver sweeper if you have one, otherwise just hunt in the registry manually. Make sure if your using a discrete audio card you have the onboard audio disabled in the bios. Install the newest drivers available from video card maker. Try the game, no work? google the error message you recieve. If no leads pop up then well un-install the game and re install, if it is a steam game right click on the game go to properties, then to local files, verify game cache files Will repair the game if any errors are found. Still no dice? if a steam game try running it in safe mode by typing /safe or /safemode in the set launch options.

If still no dice you can do some temperature checking, something you should have done first anyways make sure the cpu is under 65c, and video card is below 89c, North bridge isn't above 90c, etc.....

Good luck, I hope they have a fix for the Fx processors here soon for some games. I don't own any of these games yet, but i will be super bummed out if a game i want to play comes out and has this problem.


----------



## kzone75

Anyone sitting on a newer beta BIOS for the UD3? If so, cough it up.


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Anyone sitting on a newer beta BIOS for the UD3? If so, cough it up.


Yeah...I need an update too. I need to finish deus ex and start saints row the third


----------



## C-BuZz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Anyone sitting on a newer beta BIOS for the UD3? If so, cough it up.


+1 to this. F5 is buggy as hell...


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C-BuZz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Anyone sitting on a newer beta BIOS for the UD3? If so, cough it up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1 to this. F5 is buggy as hell...
Click to expand...

Its works fine for me.

PS: What chip are you using?


----------



## mxthunder

Im having a hard time getting my memory stable.
I bought some ripjaws x at 1600 7-8-7-24 and they wont even run the rated speeds. If I bump down to 1333, its fine, but at 1600 prime will not run for more than an hour before the tests start to turn red.

Im running my northbridge at 3000 with 1.300 V and have tried to bump the voltage all the way up to 1.35


----------



## kzone75

Well, I don't have any problems with the UD3 really. But the F5 is over a month old and I am quite sure there still must be something to fix on these motherboards. They can't be perfect already.







Only get some weird default voltage in the BIOS now when I use the FX8120. Sometimes it shows 1.45v, other times it's 1.32v, I think the default should be somewhere around 1.28v.. But the vdoop is the same as I had with the 965BE. So no biggie there.


----------



## Karossua

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Its works fine for me.
> PS: What chip are you using?


+1
I dont have issues with this bios. Work´s right....


----------



## Willhemmens

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxthunder*
> 
> Im having a hard time getting my memory stable.
> I bought some ripjaws x at 1600 7-8-7-24 and they wont even run the rated speeds. If I bump down to 1333, its fine, but at 1600 prime will not run for more than an hour before the tests start to turn red.
> Im running my northbridge at 3000 with 1.300 V and have tried to bump the voltage all the way up to 1.35


I'd drop everything to stock, including the CPU-NB. Then test to see if you can get 1600MHz stable.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

not a single problem on the F5 BIOS.


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> not a single problem on the F5 BIOS.


The only problems I'm having is not being able to play Saints row the third and deus ex. So much for the 6 hour download on steam


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michintom*
> 
> The only problems I'm having is not being able to play Saints row the third and deus ex. So much for the 6 hour download on steam


Shenanigans! How is the BIOS keeping you from playing a game?


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Shenanigans! How is the BIOS keeping you from playing a game?


http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles/Pages/STEAMGamesonAMDFXplatforms.aspx
http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?p=26411706








I actually waited staring at my monitor till steam finished downloading and updating saints row....to find out it doesn't run at all.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michintom*
> 
> http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles/Pages/STEAMGamesonAMDFXplatforms.aspx
> http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?p=26411706
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually waited staring at my monitor till steam finished downloading and updating saints row....to find out it doesn't run at all.


most interesting! Thanks for the clickies. dose the hotfix in the first post help at all?? or is it just a waste of time?


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> most interesting! Thanks for the clickies. dose the hotfix in the first post help at all?? or is it just a waste of time?


Hotfix?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michintom*
> 
> Hotfix?


I misread that page...it was just a link to the F6 BIOS for the UD3


----------



## musicman53

There is no F6 for UD3


----------



## kzone75

Got the F6C from gigabyte support. CPU PLL Voltage Control, AMD APM Master Mode, CPU Core Control (not sure if it was there before) and One Core Per Compute Unit.

99FXAUD3.zip 1103k .zip file

Haven't rar'd or zip'd before, so let me know if it works.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Tried it yet? wat zit do wat zit do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It downloads ok , unzips ok , the file is dated 15/11/2011 , but i'll wait for a gunny pig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it shows they are on the ball ..


tried, but haven't got any oc improvement over my crap 8120, can't pass 4.3 linx stable even w/ apm off now, higher than 1.33v gives me instant freeze.


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Tried it yet? wat zit do wat zit do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It downloads ok , unzips ok , the file is dated 15/11/2011 , but i'll wait for a gunny pig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but it shows they are on the ball ..


Me?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Got the F6C from gigabyte support. CPU PLL Voltage Control, AMD APM Master Mode, CPU Core Control (not sure if it was there before) and One Core Per Compute Unit.
> 
> 99FXAUD3.zip 1103k .zip file
> 
> Haven't rar'd or zip'd before, so let me know if it works.


+Rep!
Just updated the bios and quickly clocked it back up to 4.2 Ghz and steam games are working!
I can confirm Saints row the third is now working.
I'll test a few more things after I get off work.


----------



## musicman53

Flashed from F5 to F6C..............
no problems.
CPU PLL Voltage Control, AMD APM Master Mode, none of these show if anyone has a Phenom II X 2 555/560 BE installed.
Shows the exact same setting as F5 with this cpu.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *musicman53*
> 
> Flashed from F5 to F6C..............
> no problems.
> CPU PLL Voltage Control, AMD APM Master Mode, none of these show if anyone has a Phenom II X 2 555/560 BE installed.
> Shows the exact same setting as F5 with this cpu.


don`t forget to clear the cmos to ensure reliability from the bios.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Hey, wanted to post about my new OC. Highest I have gotten on this chip so far. still messing with the NB freq, might be able to hit 2800 Here it is


Stable for 8 hours of prime and many runs in BF3 at full ultra(all ultra, everything on and turned up!) CPU temps where 42-43c while priming, 38c while in game. BIOS is F5. NB temps hit a peak of 57c while stress testing and hang out at about 52c while gaming toom temp is 70f/21.1c and I only have one San Ace on my Silver Arrow and its turned down abbout 10-15%. CPU Vcore is set at 1.450 in bios and hits 1.440 under load. AMD CnQ is enabled A small amount of Vdroop but its nothing big at all. no boosting yet. NB voltage is at 1.350. Love this board, my previous best was 3.9 at 1.500Vcore and 2400NB(cant remeber voltage) on a ASUS m479XTD evo Great board for the 139.99 I stole it for


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Nice temps! Great even if you are using not a 6 core thuban processor.

Those San Ace are very good doing its job.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Nice temps! Great even if you are using not a 6 core thuban processor.
> Those San Ace are very good doing its job.


Thank you. Over the next few weeks I'll try to push the OC to see what I can get out of it. I also plan on adding my other San Ace to the cooler, temps should drop a tad with it


----------



## musicman53

Always have cleared cmos when flashing a new bios.
Did not make a difference.........


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *musicman53*
> 
> Always have cleared cmos when flashing a new bios.
> Did not make a difference.........


I never cleared cmos when flashing a bios, never had any kind of problems.


----------



## Obakemono

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2111458
Count me in.


----------



## kzone75

Seems like the F6c is working just fine.







http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2111421 This is without even trying.







Need to bump up the volts a bit on that to get it stable..r. But I will have to get some new TIM and even better cooling if I am going to run at that speed 24/7 or for any games/ benchmarks. A new PSU might be a good idea also. I don't think the Gigabyte Superb gives the juice that it's supposed to do. Funny thing is that if I set cpu voltage above 1.42v, Windows Aero turns off and on randomly. No idea why that is.. But I have been running at 4.5GHz with 1.392v since I got the 8120. Played games (Crysis 2, GTA 4..), several things has been running in the background while doing it without any problems. If I would only bother with benchies..








Interesting chip this is.. So much to tweak, so little time.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> "I love this board"
> I'm reading a "Advertisment"


do you ever stop?


----------



## Snotty

I'm very happy with my ud7







Eats my ol 790fxta-ud5.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snotty*
> 
> I'm very happy with my ud7
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Eats my ol 790fxta-ud5.


Woot! what set up are you running off your UD7??


----------



## killerbyte

Gigabyte GA-990FXA UD5--- Is there a fix or hotfix for the bios to correct FX 8150 cpu when processing steam games?


----------



## Tanka82

Hi all. In a few days ill be getting a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5.

Im Planning to Upgrade my CPU amd Phenom ii x2 555 BE to a 6 core Cpu.

My Question is Why are People getting the 1090t Instead of the 1100t? is the 1090t better OC or is it the price why people are getting the 1090t?

Also Planning to get This Ram http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231416 Hope they will be ok.


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tanka82*
> 
> Hi all. In a few days ill be getting a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5.
> 
> Im Planning to Upgrade my CPU amd Phenom ii x2 555 BE to a 6 core Cpu.
> 
> My Question is Why are People getting the 1090t Instead of the 1100t? is the 1090t better OC or is it the price why people are getting the 1090t?
> 
> Also Planning to get This Ram http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231416 Hope they will be ok.


Basically they overclock about the same so most people recommend just saving a little bit and get 1090t.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tanka82*
> 
> Hi all. In a few days ill be getting a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5.
> 
> Im Planning to Upgrade my CPU amd Phenom ii x2 555 BE to a 6 core Cpu.
> 
> My Question is Why are People getting the 1090t Instead of the 1100t? is the 1090t better OC or is it the price why people are getting the 1090t?
> 
> Also Planning to get This Ram http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231416 Hope they will be ok.


Why not get 16 for a few bucks more?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233198


----------



## Tanka82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*
> 
> Why not get 16 for a few bucks more?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233198


because i live in australia


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

having 16 gigs will also limit your ability to overclock the system. It put's more stress on the memory controller. Also with RAM pick one, quantity or overclocking head room. For the best overclocking system yoru going to only want to use 2 dimm's and 4 gig kits seem to OC better than 8 gig kits.


----------



## Furball Zen

Whats the trick to forcing the UD5 to load the OS from a flash drive? Never had a problem getting my DFI boards or the one mistake of an MSi board to do it.

Either i get the CD driver error using an ODD or boot mgr missing on usb flash. Been messing with it for hours now. Will post my thoughts later.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> having 16 gigs will also limit your ability to overclock the system. It put's more stress on the memory controller. Also with RAM pick one, quantity or overclocking head room. For the best overclocking system yoru going to only want to use 2 dimm's and 4 gig kits seem to OC better than 8 gig kits.


Thats called compromise...


----------



## Tanka82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> having 16 gigs will also limit your ability to overclock the system. It put's more stress on the memory controller. Also with RAM pick one, quantity or overclocking head room. For the best overclocking system yoru going to only want to use 2 dimm's and 4 gig kits seem to OC better than 8 gig kits.


Thanks for this info. ill be getting a 8gb kit then.


----------



## Snotty

1100T at 4.2ghz but the big winner is the northbridge. 990fx will do 3ghz with k10 chip easily plus it all runs cooler.Also slightly higher mem speeds too.
I had a 965BE on the 790fx stable at 4ghz but the 6 core does 4.2 + on the 990fx. I broke the 965 when polishing the heatsink flat so couldn't try it on the 990fx.
790fx NB would get hot easily too, compared to the 990fx ud7. Prolly ud5 compared to ud7 chipset heatsinks.
Actually hanging to get the FX chip but am forcing myself to wait, patiently, for the 8170FX next year. Should be more mature build and will turbo to 4.7ghz. Now THAT is going to be a good toy








gl n hf


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snotty*
> 
> 1100T at 4.2ghz but the big winner is the northbridge. 990fx will do 3ghz with k10 chip easily plus it all runs cooler.Also slightly higher mem speeds too.
> I had a 965BE on the 790fx stable at 4ghz but the 6 core does 4.2 + on the 990fx. I broke the 965 when polishing the heatsink flat so couldn't try it on the 990fx.
> 790fx NB would get hot easily too, compared to the 990fx ud7. Prolly ud5 compared to ud7 chipset heatsinks.
> Actually hanging to get the FX chip but am forcing myself to wait, patiently, for the 8170FX next year. Should be more mature build and will turbo to 4.7ghz. Now THAT is going to be a good toy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gl n hf


Your thuban should be able to go higher than 4.2. They clock much better than the Denab chip's. nice clock on the NB though.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*
> 
> Whats the trick to forcing the UD5 to load the OS from a flash drive? Never had a problem getting my DFI boards or the one mistake of an MSi board to do it.
> 
> Either i get the CD driver error using an ODD or boot mgr missing on usb flash. Been messing with it for hours now. Will post my thoughts later.


Nvm, put the DVD n the Marvell controller so it wouldnt be looked at as part of the RAID and it worked fine. Never could get the flash drive to work right.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Furball Zen

This is not the first time ive built a system, it just would not work with USB.

Using FAT32 with 64bit wont work. No matter what i did it kept saying the bootmgr was missing, so either it was missing, or my thumb drive was bad, or it just didnt want to boot from usb flash. But i got to thinking about the CD driver error and wondering if Windows was trying to make it part of the RAID so i moved it to the grey SATA ports and itfired ff first time no complaints. Although, i did have to put the RAID drivers from the Gigabyte CD in during install.

Also, in that list, youre missing the step to make it bootable. I cant access bootdisk.com from work, but its on their first page on how to make a USB Flash look like a floppy and bootable.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Furball Zen

No, you still need to make it bootable by putting the boot manager on it, thats what makes the DVD bootable. Like i said, it worked on both of my DFI builds and my server build. On the DFI all i had to do as point it to boot from USB first, then CD-ROM then HDD and it never once faltered. The MSi had to have the CD drivers nLite'd in first, but i fault MSi for their crappy stuff.

You make it bootable by using CMD still, with the install DVD in the drive and using

Navigate to your DVD drive, then

cd E:\boot

bootsect /nt60 A: (or what ever letter you gave your thumb drive)

Then youll get the response that the boot sector was copied from your Windows DVD disc.


----------



## stasio

New BIOS:

*GA-990FXA-UD7 - F7f
GA-990FXA-UD5 - F7g
GA-990FXA-UD3 - F6e
GA-990FXA-D3 - F5e
GA-990XA-UD3 - F10f
GA-970A-UD3 - F5a
GA-970A-D3 - F8d*

-Update AGESA 1.1.0.2 code
-25.Nov 11


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> It's also called Technically not accurate .


how?


----------



## kzone75

Couldn't get the F6e to work. Hard resets. When loading up windows, at the login screen or at the desktop. No BSODs.


----------



## otakunorth

anyone try f7g for the ud5 yet?


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otakunorth*
> 
> anyone try f7g for the ud5 yet?


yeah its garbage at least for me. I lock up on anything past stock when trying to run prime95. Looks like the voltages drop more on this version. I went back to f7c.


----------



## michintom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Couldn't get the F6e to work. Hard resets. When loading up windows, at the login screen or at the desktop. No BSODs.


I was just about to update it to F6e lol. Let me know if you get it working


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> yeah its garbage at least for me. I lock up on anything past stock when trying to run prime95. Looks like the voltages drop more on this version. I went back to f7c.


Thanks for the heads up


----------



## Caseyds620

Guys, I haven't posted here before, but I am desperate. I really need some help.

I turned my custom rig off two days ago, it was in perfect shape for months, but all of a sudden, I hit the power button, and NOTHING happens. On the mobo, the three internal buttons are flashing blue when the PSU is on, when I turn the PSU off, it stops after a few seconds.

Please, please help. This is over $1200 dollars worth of parts. Absolutely nothing happens, no fans turn, no power starts, no post, NOTHING.


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Couldn't get the F6e to work. Hard resets. When loading up windows, at the login screen or at the desktop. No BSODs.


F6e works for me and shows all the new options but seems to be a worse overclocker than F6c. If you are overclocked try downclocking to see if it works then.


----------



## otakunorth

try clearing the cmos first
then unplug all your psu leads then hit the power button a few times then plug them back in and try


----------



## Caseyds620

Done that, no luck. Please, please, please, has anyone else had this issue?


----------



## otakunorth

have you run a psu tester? sounds like thats the issue (at least to me)
all the caps on the board look good?


----------



## Caseyds620

Caps look fine, but if the PSU was busted, why would the board be flashing blue? Wouldn't that mean its recieving power?


----------



## otakunorth

might but over or under a safe load


----------



## Caseyds620

*sigh* but its an 1000 watt PSU powering a 550 watt system. S***, there goes $250 bucks, nobody except me and one other person seems to have this issue on the whole internet.


----------



## otakunorth

not sure what to say, other then that, do a rebuild/swap ram unplug the hdd and optical just for testing


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

@Caseyds620

Try this

-Remove all ram sticks and place only 1 and turn it on.

-If not success, unplug from wall, remove all cards, ram sticks, cmos battery and all cables from the motherboard. Let it that way for about 15 mins an then put back the cmos battery, reconect all cables, video card and one ram module. turn it on.

If it boot to bios set the bios and turn off, the reconnect the hard drive and all other stuff. One device per reboot.

Please post results.


----------



## Caseyds620

I am trying this now, I hope it works. I am behind a few bios updates I think, but it has been working for months. The worst thing is, I can't identify WHAT is wrong with it. All the parts have warranty, but I don't want to send in my GPU, CPU, PSU, and Mobo. That takes a ****load of time.


----------



## Furball Zen

Just because an update comes out doesnt mean you have to apply it. Just because some LED's flash doesnt mean your PSU didnt crap out.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> F6e works for me and shows all the new options but seems to be a worse overclocker than F6c. If you are overclocked try downclocking to see if it works then.


Tried that too, but it's still not working. I actually made it to the desktop and was able to launch AOD. BSOD'd almost right away. 0x000001e which I think is a cpu code. Gonna stick with F6c for now since I have no issues with it at the moment.


----------



## Caseyds620

It wasn't the PSU. Its clearly the mobo just not willing to start anymore. Going to have to go through a long painful RMA process.


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Tried that too, but it's still not working. I actually made it to the desktop and was able to launch AOD. BSOD'd almost right away. 0x000001e which I think is a cpu code. Gonna stick with F6c for now since I have no issues with it at the moment.


Yep, i'm back to F6c too. F6e doesn't overclock as well and gives random BSOD and reboots. I'm really surprised Gigabyte chose to release F6e officially but not F6c......they got that one backwards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*
> 
> Just because an update comes out doesnt mean you have to apply it.


Erm, with boards as fickle as these, yes you do need to apply an update when it comes out.

If these boards had zero issues and every function worked properly then i'd agree with you but every board seems to be borked in a different (fundamental) way.

Right now we're beta testers and every bios needs tested.


----------



## Snotty

Thanx for your time








I have managed a 4.4ghz on the Thuban.Ran the benchies ok , also played Dirt 3 & Forged Alliance without a trip for hours. Couldn't get it higher and stable though. I guess if i turned Mem & NB down it may do it but the performance hit is too good to give away with 3ghz nb and 1600 Mem. It's a happy camper at 4.2 ghz. Yesty the weather was cool and rain , ambient temp around 16C. At 4.2 & 1.55v (high , i know but ends up around 1.45 to 1.5ish with vdroop) it idled at 23C & load was 37C (gotta love a dirty great big chunk of copper for cooling). I see quite a variation in vdroop but aparently it is all ok according to Gigabyte (i read somehere)
8^)


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*
> 
> Just because an update comes out doesnt mean you have to apply it.
> 
> 
> 
> Erm, with boards as fickle as these, yes you do need to apply an update when it comes out.
> 
> If these boards had zero issues and every function worked properly then i'd agree with you but every board seems to be borked in a different (fundamental) way.
> 
> Right now we're beta testers and every bios needs tested.
Click to expand...

I didnt say 'with these boards' i said it as a blanket statement to his 'im a few updates behind' in that a BIOS isnt like Windows and can suffer from NOT being updated. My DFI 790FX has the shipped BIOS and has been working fine for over 3.5 years 24/7. Which is what quantifies my claim of "you dont need to update simply cause there is one there".


----------



## Furball Zen

Heres my proof for the OP

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2115197


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## TitusPrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*
> 
> I didnt say 'with these boards' i said it as a blanket statement to his 'im a few updates behind' in that a BIOS isnt like Windows and can suffer from NOT being updated. My DFI 790FX has the shipped BIOS and has been working fine for over 3.5 years 24/7. Which is what quantifies my claim of "you dont need to update simply cause there is one there".


If you're going to make blanket statements in threads for specific boards (which are having problems driven by poor bios) then your statement will be out of context and that will make it wrong.


----------



## sequoia464

Revision question - I'm considering either a UD3 or a UD5. From what I have seen the 1.2 is the latest revision for the UD3, Can't find anything on the UD5 - does anyone know what revision I should be looking for with the UD5?


----------



## ebduncan

ya c6e bios is flakky.

noticed a small speed boost and some new settings in bios. Overall though i went back to the f5 bios. For the ud3, i seen people post about f6c? have a link to download this one?

as on the website there is f5-and then goes to f6e.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Revision question - I'm considering either a UD3 or a UD5. From what I have seen the 1.2 is the latest revision for the UD3, Can't find anything on the UD5 - does anyone know what revision I should be looking for with the UD5?


Look on Gigabytes site, but the one i just got Wednesday from the 'Egg is 1.0.


----------



## rawsteel

Do I need to update my UD5 bios to F7g (Update AGESA 1.1.0.2 code) still if I dont have a AMD FX CPU..? im currently using F5


----------



## Tykjen

Damn...Coretemp wont show my temps anymore. Aida shows the temp on core 0 though. But *** has happened? Anyone got a clue?


----------



## tw33k

Running F7f now. Vdroop is still an issue. 1.5v set in the BIOS but drops to 1.456v under load. Seems to fluctuate between 1.456v and 1.472v


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Running F7f now. Vdroop is still an issue. 1.5v set in the BIOS but drops to 1.456v under load. Seems to fluctuate between 1.456v and 1.472v


still better then what f7g was doing on mine. It would drop to 1.3 on load when set to anything. I had it as high as 1.5 and it would still drop to 1.3. Is f7f better then f7c? I am running f7c right now.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> still better then what f7g was doing on mine. It would drop to 1.3 on load when set to anything. I had it as high as 1.5 and it would still drop to 1.3. Is f7f better then f7c? I am running f7c right now.


I have a UD7. There was no F7c (that I know of at least)


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tykjen*
> 
> Damn...Coretemp wont show my temps anymore. Aida shows the temp on core 0 though. But *** has happened? Anyone got a clue?


You must disable "unlock cores" in the BIOS settings. Check it and disable it.


----------



## tw33k

I have to say I'm really disappointed in Gigabyte. I expected a lot from this board and feel let down by the lack of features other boards have. No UEFI, no LLC options and no XMP RAM profiles. ASRock recently added all these to it's high end AMD board, why can't Gigabyte? The last 4 or so BIOS updates have been very uninspired. I have emailed them asking about all this and giving my views on the matter.


----------



## Furball Zen

XMP is an Intel proprietary thing.

So here are my results from getting the RAID 5 setup and somewhat tuned.

First result is pretty disappointing considering the guy i got this disc setup off of had 8.5ms Access and 113.4MB/s transfer.



So i found a Pro trial version of HDTune and it has a feature for simulating a short stroke, so i set it at 40GB (sweet access and insane burst lol)



Then i used the Disk Manager in Win7 to partition the RAID but it wouldnt go any smaller than 158GB



Then since Partition Magic doesnt install on Win7 i found about the only other free choice out there and set a 50gb OS drive -> 10GB pagefile -> remainder setup and got this


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*
> 
> XMP is an Intel proprietary thing.


According to this post ASRock released a UEFI update that allows XMP profiles on it's Fatality 990FX


----------



## Furball Zen

I dont care what some post says









http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/gaming/gaming-computers/intel-extreme-memory-profile-xmp.html


----------



## tw33k

What's the difference between AMD boards having Intel LAN and this? None. ASUS boards have it as well See here


----------



## Furball Zen

Where did i say LAN? That link i posted says nothing about LAN, it says "It enables a robust, overclocking solution designed to take advantage of the mega-gaming features built into Intel® technology-based PCs." And Intel is not AMD. Simple!


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*
> 
> Where did i say LAN? That link i posted says nothing about LAN, it says "It enables a robust, overclocking solution designed to take advantage of the mega-gaming features built into Intel® technology-based PCs." And Intel is not AMD. Simple!


WOW! You really don't get it. Don't embarrass yourself further by continuing this discussion


----------



## Tykjen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> You must disable "unlock cores" in the BIOS settings. Check it and disable it.


Thank you kindly sir.


----------



## Tanka82

ok so i got my ga-990fxa-ud5 today and at the moment i am impressed. i Put in My phenom II x2 555 BE and unlocked it to 4 cores which i couldnt do with my previous motherboard. Then i overclocked it to 3831.40mhz with 1.520v. I chucked in the witcher enhanced edition and played it on the high settings which also i couldnt do with my previous MB. so i played it for nearly an hr and the hottest the cpu got was 58c with the stock cooler.
Played around bios and dropped the voltage core to normal which is 1.456 and it was still stable.

I was going to get a 6 core cpu with noctua dh-d14. But with these results im not to sure now, thinking of just getting the noctua.

Also my graphics card is a ice-q 4670 1gb, which i am gonna replace soon.

What do you guys reckon about this?

hope it made sense lol.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## tout

I guess I won't touch that F6e BIOS I just downloaded then. lol. Hopefully Gigabyte gets a new BIOS out soon that is stable.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tanka82*
> 
> ok so i got my ga-990fxa-ud5 today and at the moment i am impressed. i Put in My phenom II x2 555 BE and unlocked it to 4 cores which i couldnt do with my previous motherboard. Then i overclocked it to 3831.40mhz with 1.520v. I chucked in the witcher enhanced edition and played it on the high settings which also i couldnt do with my previous MB. so i played it for nearly an hr and the hottest the cpu got was 58c with the stock cooler.
> Played around bios and dropped the voltage core to normal which is 1.456 and it was still stable.
> 
> I was going to get a 6 core cpu with noctua dh-d14. But with these results im not to sure now, thinking of just getting the noctua.
> 
> Also my graphics card is a ice-q 4670 1gb, which i am gonna replace soon.
> 
> What do you guys reckon about this?
> 
> hope it made sense lol.


The only thing wrong with the 4870 is the lack of DX11 which isnt hardly being used yet anyways. Im going to be running dual 4890's.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Personally i wouldn't either imo , F5 is reletively ok (it boots up  , actually this would be the first time over the years that i 'have not' updated , in those previous years i have always ignored the 'do not upgrade unless there is a problem' routine , i think i'll wait for F6 .
> 
> The other guys/gals have too , as it's to do with the FX cpu stuff ..


Dunno what my Rev 1.0 has, but my FX-6100 works fine out of the box.


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I have to say I'm really disappointed in Gigabyte. I expected a lot from this board and feel let down by the lack of features other boards have. No UEFI, no LLC options and no XMP RAM profiles. ASRock recently added all these to it's high end AMD board, why can't Gigabyte? The last 4 or so BIOS updates have been very uninspired. I have emailed them asking about all this and giving my views on the matter.


Same here...
I really hope I'll be able to RMA my board for revision 1.1 when it's released.
The lack of LLC really sucks on the UD5/7.
It can be as bad as a whole *.*10v drop.


----------



## Vesku

Is Gigabyte just going to leave premium early buyers with a sour taste in their mouths? Not a good way to keep reputation, imo.


----------



## tw33k

I have to have my CPU @ 1.5v to keep it stable. It drops as low as 1.424v. They really screwed us on this board. I emailed them complaining about the lack of UEFI, LLC and a few other things and the reply was simply "We will implement UEFI in later revisions" I'm buying an ASRock Fatality 990FX I think.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Does anybody know what the difference now is between the V1 and V1.2 boards?
> That's skipping the V1.1 ...


e-sata controller, some components around cpu socket are displaced different also, I don't know whats that best for.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I have to have my CPU @ 1.5v to keep it stable. It drops as low as 1.424v. They really screwed us on this board. I emailed them complaining about the lack of UEFI, LLC and a few other things and the reply was simply "We will implement UEFI in later revisions" I'm buying an ASRock Fatality 990FX I think.


What UEFI are you talking about? Mine has it, but its only for controlling the CD-ROM when 3TB+ boot drives are present.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Furball Zen*
> 
> The only thing wrong with the 4870 is the lack of DX11 which isnt hardly being used yet anyways. Im going to be running dual 4890's.
> Dunno what my Rev 1.0 has, but my FX-6100 works fine out of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you need glasses?
> 
> 1-It was a 4670
> 2-Starting from about 5 pages back , FX and Bios updates and steam , did you put your statement there in the most applicable spot , where i was referencing too.
> 3-Well done on the "i was wrong" on the usb pen drive issue whilst i'm at it , yet you'll quote on the FX....
Click to expand...

Scuse the heck out of me.... as far as my comment to you, i was simply saying that my FX works fine out of the box but i didnt know what BIOS it had. I dont know what youre talking about on the pen drive?

Put yourself under a bucket and cool off.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Tykjen

I just got the Noctua DH-14 for my Phenom x6 1100T. Best buy I ever did, with stock cooler it would idle at 45 and go as high as 65 at full load.
Now, it idles at 30 and has not gone once over 40 at full load, while not making a sound.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tykjen*
> 
> I just got the Noctua DH-14 for my Phenom x6 1100T. Best buy I ever did, with stock cooler it would idle at 45 and go as high as 65 at full load.
> Now, it idles at 30 and has not gone once over 40 at full load, while not making a sound.


Yes Its a great cooler! Glad you like the performance. What OC do you have on your system with it?


----------



## Tykjen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yes Its a great cooler! Glad you like the performance. What OC do you have on your system with it?


I have not yet begun OC'ing. Not sure if I really need to at this point heh. I just wanted something silent and powerful. The Noctua looks to be a [perfect] pick. But I was not aware of the size of that thing!
It was not easy to make it fit, I had to remove the heatsinks and spreaders on my ram..but I bet the ram is cooler than than it was before though


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tykjen*
> 
> I have not yet begun OC'ing. Not sure if I really need to at this point heh. I just wanted something silent and powerful. The Noctua looks to be a [perfect] pick. But I was not aware of the size of that thing!
> It was not easy to make it fit, I had to remove the heatsinks and spreaders on my ram..but I bet the ram is cooler than than it was before though


Great pick yes, its massive! If you do mess with your OC post about it on that thuban with that cooler you could hit over 4.0


----------



## toddville393

Sold my rig and moving to Intel go ahead and remove me.


----------



## carolina new be

question...
I have a gigabyte ga990fxa-ud5 motherboard

and a cooler master gx-750 watt power supply.

on the mb there are two power connections

#1 is a 12 volt 8 pin atx-12 power connector
#2 is a 24 pin atx power connector

the power supply does not have a 8 pin atx-12 volt connector but it DOES have the 24 pin atx power connector.

will the 24 pin atx connector be all that i need ?

or do I need to get a power supply that has the 8pin atx 12 volt AND the atx 24 pin power connectors ?

thanks !! bobby

btw this is my first posting on this forum


----------



## Tanka82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carolina new be*
> 
> question...
> I have a gigabyte ga990fxa-ud5 motherboard
> and a cooler master gx-750 watt power supply.
> on the mb there are two power connections
> #1 is a 12 volt 8 pin atx-12 power connector
> #2 is a 24 pin atx power connector
> the power supply does not have a 8 pin atx-12 volt connector but it DOES have the 24 pin atx power connector.
> will the 24 pin atx connector be all that i need ?
> or do I need to get a power supply that has the 8pin atx 12 volt AND the atx 24 pin power connectors ?
> thanks !! bobby
> btw this is my first posting on this forum


from coolermaster site

Connector 20+4 Pin MB x 1
4+4 Pin CPU 12V x 1 connect the 4 pins together to get the 8 pins u need
6+2 Pin PCI x 4
SATA x 9
4 Pin Peripherial x 3
4 Pin Floppy x 1


----------



## patricksiglin

Testing F7G bios for ud5 again. It seems that voltages are off by .1. F7C and previous bios I could do 4.3ghz at 1.45 volts. Under load it would drop to 1.408v. On f7g I have to set it to 1.55 to get 1.408v under load. Heat wise its the same. This is scaling up by .1 all the way. Old bios 1.375v for 4ghz now 1.475v for 4ghz. Running prime now to see. Also at 4.5ghz I get around 64fps on cinebench where as if I make this into a tri-core I get 69fps @ 4.5. Kinda interesting. Also with f7g I can not pump enough volts to get past 4.5ghz as 3,4, or 6 core. Seems like my chip tops out at 4.5ghz.


----------



## tw33k

Given the lack of support Gigabyte has given us with this board, I've added them to my $hitlist and will never buy any of their products again. I just ordered an ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX and can't wait. Will be selling my UD7 with 16GB Team Xtreem RAM


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> Given the lack of support Gigabyte has given us with this board, I've added them to my $hitlist and will never buy any of their products again. I just ordered an ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX and can't wait. Will be selling my UD7 with 16GB Team Xtreem RAM


Kind of thinking of doing the same thing. Not sure if I want the asrock or asus sabertooth.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> Kind of thinking of doing the same thing. Not sure if I want the asrock or asus sabertooth.


I looked at the sabertooth but didn't like the colors


----------



## carolina new be

thanks for the reply









now all I need to do is wait till Christmas for my cpu and my birthday in January for the video card


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## tw33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Looks like a good board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , i hope it goes well for you ...


Thanks. I'll be able to run my RAM at 2000MHz and control vdroop


----------



## carolina new be

I am gonna use the silver arrow from thermal right for my CPU cooler and it has 2 fans and the gigabyte GA 990 FXA UD5 motherboard only has 1 CPU fan power connector .

I called Gigabyte and asked then if they had a solution and they replied to plug 1 fan in the CPU fan connector and the other fan into the SYSTEM fan connector. I was told if I connected 2 fans into the CPU FAN socket it could overload the CPU FAN socket / header ?

Does this make sense or were they just blowing smoke up my a_s ?

Bobby


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I am gonna use the silver arrow from thermal right for my CPU cooler and it has 2 fans and the gigabyte GA 990 FXA UD5 motherboard only has 1 CPU fan power connector .
> 
> I called Gigabyte and asked then if they had a solution and they replied to plug 1 fan in the CPU fan connector and the other fan into the SYSTEM fan connector. I was told if I connected 2 fans into the CPU FAN socket it could overload the CPU FAN socket / header ?
> 
> Does this make sense or were they just blowing smoke up my a_s ?
> 
> Bobby


makes perfect sense the fan headers on the board are not high amperage, so when you connect mutiple fans its very possible to short out the fan header. I would either do what gigabyte recommended, or get a 4 pin molex to 3 or 4 pin fan adapter.

Quote:


> Given the lack of support Gigabyte has given us with this board, I've added them to my $hitlist and will never buy any of their products again. I just ordered an ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX and can't wait. Will be selling my UD7 with 16GB Team Xtreem RAM


I hope gigabyte and others get on the ball and fix the problems they have with Amd Bulldozer cpu's. These boards have been out for awhile now and they still are not 99%. No excuses, its not just gigabyte either, alot of the other am3+ boards have issues. What a load of crock.


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Hi guys,

I am new to this forum and just stumbled across as you do when your trying to trouble shoot.
Anways I brought a new AMD FX8150 CPU, GIGABYTE GA990FXA-UD5 and 8gig kit of GSKILL Ripjaws X 2133mhz ram.

My system also contains the following components.
2GIG Gigabtye 6970 video card
620Watt Corsair HX PSU
120mm CPU Water Cooler Kit
128gig SSD
Thermaltake Spedo Case
With approx 10 case fans

All stock settings at the moment "because i can't even change anything, because it wont post to bios"

*THE STORY*
So I've swap out my old 790gx motherboard, AMD 955 125watt CPU clocked to 4ghz @ 1.53v and 4gig Kingston ram with the new items mentioned and now its all in and pluged in
correctly and I've turned the system on and it all powers up but does not post / boot.
Instead it just stays on and the GPU fan just rev's up and then slows down to normal "which normally happens" and just keeps doing this every 10seconds, like if the system is auto rebooting?!

There are no beeps or anything.

So I've done some reading around, I believe its BIOS related that it does not support the CPU "bios update is required".
Does anyone else know what the problem is?

ALSO - I've unpluged everything so its just system fans and cooling, motherboard, cpu and still no beeps.

Thanks Gaz


----------



## mystikalrush

Anyone notice any differences or improvements with the F6e bios for UD3?


----------



## killerbyte

MrGaZZaDaG

OK from looking at your PC RIG we basically have the products just slightly different specs: FX 8150, MEM-Grimjaw DDR3 :4 sticks with 2gb=8gig 2100mhz/1600mhz ,Gigabyte FXA 990 UD5 MOBO,and AMD HD 6000 series:6970-6870 with a 600+~ watt PSU ( I now have 800 psu: having more makes ur system run quieter and other things )

Here are some remedies that I tired, But before that let me tell you the solution to my problem.
If you go back a few pages you will see my history...anyway--

Since this was a new build (everything from scratch no extra parts) I had to buy a compatible non-AM3+ CPU to use to update my bios to F4/F5.
I bought an AM3 250 . Why did I need to do so? Because my bios did not identified my FX 8150. It did not make any sound when booting. (the bios needs MEM and CPU to make alert?). Even though the box says its AM3 ready/compatible... The bios that came with 990FXA series was F1. From what I gather ,you need to download and update to bios revision F4-F5 an order for your FX 8150 to work.I downloaded F5 using my AM3 CPU with DDr3 12800 ,HD 6870 and 600 PSU and My PC was able to boot. Do you have a spare CPU?
From what I gather there is some who may thinks its your power...but I think just turning on your PC to boot up doesn't require 600+watts~ The two most extensive power usages comes from the CPU and GPU so for you the maximum draw of these parts is about 500watts~? with 120 left for mem and the system board....and that's on a heavy load..at 100% max use - everyday task maybe close 300> watts or less?

Another thing you may try is adjusting the mem. My mobo default mem clock for my 12800 was at 666mhz, I had to set it at 800mhz, but I think its because 800mhz is consider a XMP? so one must manually change it.but you have 8gig at clock to 2110.. even if you took out the cpu and use an AM3 cpu with this mem will it work.? 1866 is the new max speed for FX series. but the mobo allows up to 2100mhz OC.Should mobo clocks default speed be over 1800~ maybe you will need to change your mem too? Also I hear that the FX can only use two mem chips at 2100 OC so take out two of them or use one mem chip ? It would be better if you tired a DDR3 12800 chip since that is the max speed of AM3?
Also I notice you have 10 fans...When trouble shooting try to use as few parts as possible to locate the issue. In other words disconnect all those fans.
(Gigbyte has said that they are flashing new makes of this mobo with new bios F5/F4, however you cant tell which one you have just by looking at the box. you could tell by the manufacturer date in your manual, maybe My was dated May 2011 ...The AM3+ bios was released in August 2011)
Sorry, If you have trouble reading this , I'm used to fixing people PC issues not telling them how do it.
If you need verbal help I have Skype


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Hi Killerbyte!

Thank you so much for your feedback into how you solved your problem and haha it was easy enough to read








Oh and I guess I'm Lucky... because I still have my old parts at home, So I'm going to head home and give the AMD 955 BE processor ago!

And yes, I honestly feel its not the power supply... as I have no harddrives or other fans plugged in. Its just CPU, RAM, MOBO & Videocard.
+ It use to handle my overclocked AMD 955 BE @ 4ghz with 1.55volts with all the same gear!

I've tried slower RAM 1600mhz DDR3, i've tried 1 and 2 sticks of both types and I even took all the ram out and still no beeps or noise?!
I called the shop where I brought the board, they wasn't much help as they probably haven't sold many bulldozers.
They just said they'd swap my board if its that.








thanks again mate, I will post back to let everyone else know.


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Okay.

with the AMD 955 Black Edition CPU it boots and posts.

Now I've pluged in my SSD and its coming up with "missing boot mngr"
insert in system disk, cd bla bla.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## killerbyte

Good job ~ You level up to a boot-able PC









OK you may already know this but you don't need to load Windows to update your bios.. If you have a spare laptop download the bios onto a flash drive. Also remember to enable USB legacy driver and or boot options in your bios. If you don't have a spare laptop maybe you should try a SATA drive. If you have a blank SSD drive then yes the bios will report some thing like missing disc blah blah . In other words you will need to install windows on your SSD. However if you have windows on your ssd. Then i wouldn't know , because I'm not on the SSD band wagon yet so i have not trouble shooting ideas. Try using a SATA with windows. But flash your bios using the bios flashing function .meaning when pc turns on hit DEL and then choose F8.Maybe by updating you will fix your issue.


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

I got the rock stocker version BIOS at the moment...
So I'm trying to boot up off my SSD that was working on my 780GX motherboard before I replaced it with this trouble!!
My SSD has windows 7 on it, I might try and repair the boot manager.

Thanks Killerbyte, I will try and make a bootable USB with the updated bios and try again!?


----------



## killerbyte

So how did it turn out?

I'm in Korea so I had it worst...
I went to buy my RIG last month in Seoul ( I live in another city) and at that time the man didn't have the FX990 only ASUS FM1
So he gave me the ASUS FM1 the FX 8150 and the 5770. I went back to my city and realize ...the socket doesn't fit...WIKI pedia taught me about this new fusion mobo. WOw fusion was release? when.? Actually I just found out about the .FX that week.
I travel back to return the item in which they refuse to order the FX 990. Because he said it wasn't compatible with my mobo. I argue with him for hours* I have to explain to him, their is a socket AM3b(FX 4100-8150) and AM3a (FX 3***-4100?) And i exchange my GPU for another one,

I bought my rig on Nov 4 but I didn't get to work till Nov 24.....so sad ;(


----------



## Furball Zen

You allowed yourself to be confused with FX vs. FM (APU's).


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Okay.
> 
> with the AMD 955 Black Edition CPU it boots and posts.
> 
> Now I've pluged in my SSD and its coming up with "missing boot mngr"
> insert in system disk, cd bla bla.


in your bios go to hard disk boot priority and make sure your SSD is selected as your boot drive. Make sure achi mode is turned on. Should boot right up. For the memory side of things disable c1e in bios and use the Dram overclocking profiles in bios to set your memory speed and manuaully set your timings to spec. Also be sure to set the correct voltage. Most high speed memory over ddr 3 1600 requires 1.65 volts on the memory, default is 1.5 in bios.


----------



## Heidi

ppl...1090t + 990fxa-ud3 + 16gb corsair vengeance lp + noctua nh-u12p(1 fan) = 4ghz flawless..24/7 with 1.424V...cinebench 11.5=7.10...
very, very happy with machine...
i am coming from i7 960 and sabertooth x58 12gb...what a waste of time, effort and money...and electricity...
does anyone knows about bd b3 rev release date? can't wait for the moment...


----------



## AMD4ME

BD3 skipped. AMD is going directly to Piledriver based Vishera which is AM3+ socket compatible, so it's all good. Estimated shipping in Q3 '12.


----------



## Heidi

huh, bit long to wait...for sure it's going to be am3+...had burned my fingers with intel and every revision which took me into whole upgrade circle...mobo+ram+cpu...
anyway, so far i am happy with this setup, cost me about 330 bucks all up...vs 570 for previous x58 + 960 which cause me nothing but headache...and all those stories about easy overclocking...lool...yes for a day or two and then crash bang...no more 4.2 new max out is 4 then crash bang again so your new max is 3.8....and so on...


----------



## sbeast

just picked up my 990fxa-ud3, going to install it next week after the Ram arrives


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## arsenal553

Just popped in a 960T in my UD7. Very happy with overclock. I unlocked it to a 6 core and its currently running at 1.525 volts set in the bios at 3.8GHz. Tough Mobo.

Quick Question: The cpu had a VERY light residue of some gray material. Cleaned with alcohol and it left a light mark on the rag. Could this be a used Cpu?


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## unrealskill

ok guy i really need your help. let me explain.

i just got the ud3 and i have a big problem i cant get eather windows 7 64bit or windows xp 32bit to boot or install.
i have tryed installing from a dvd and from a flash drive i also updated my bios to f6e. it will load the dvd at first it will say setting up file or some thing along those lines then it will show it starting up windows screen then my pc will just reboot. and keep doing this on and on and on. then i tryed xp and i got to where it was formatting the drive and it restarted again. and i cant get to that screen again. some thing about nstd press crtl alt delt to restart.

i have tryed switching around the sata cables still nothing and i tryed to boot the win7 disk without a hhd and it dose the same darn thing as if it was hooked up. i also tryed different ram pny and cosar both where 4gb cards. the hdd was a secondary hdd for my old rig so i know it works.

my rig:
amd 955 black
990fxa ud3
g skill 2x 4gb(8gb) 1333mhz ddr3
zotac gt 520
segate 250gb hdd
430w thermaltake psu
coolermasters 6 pipe cooler

help!

ps my 1st post, i love these forums


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## unrealskill

have tryed my i stick of 4bg ram and my friends pny 1 stick and corsar 4gb i stick. i would think that 430 would be fine for this setup. every thing is brand new but the hdd.


----------



## unrealskill

hmm did there calculator they did not show my gfx card but i tryed maching it with some thing close it says a 550w

ps i got xp to get to 100% format and when it rebooted nothing happend its a black screen and a hear the beep on the mobo speaker every time it restarts witch is about every 10sec's


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Furball Zen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unrealskill*
> 
> hmm did there calculator they did not show my gfx card but i tryed maching it with some thing close it says a 550w
> 
> ps i got xp to get to 100% format and when it rebooted nothing happend its a black screen and a hear the beep on the mobo speaker every time it restarts witch is about every 10sec's


Dude, get rid of that avatar, now.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arsenal553*
> 
> Just popped in a 960T in my UD7. Very happy with overclock. I unlocked it to a 6 core and its currently running at 1.525 volts set in the bios at 3.8GHz. Tough Mobo.
> Quick Question: The cpu had a VERY light residue of some gray material. Cleaned with alcohol and it left a light mark on the rag. Could this be a used Cpu?


That sounds like old TIM. I would imagine that it was a used CPU. Did it come in a retail box?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unrealskill*
> 
> hmm did there calculator they did not show my gfx card but i tryed maching it with some thing close it says a 550w
> ps i got xp to get to 100% format and when it rebooted nothing happend its a black screen and a hear the beep on the mobo speaker every time it restarts witch is about every 10sec's


Here's what you need to do.
1. Reset your CMOS
2. Go into BIOS and make sure you have your optical drive set as primary boot
3. Restart and install Windows of your choice (preferably 64 bit 7)
4. Update BIOS if any problems persist after Windows install.

The reason that you're having these problems is probably because this was a returned mobo that the CMOS wasn't reset on. Once you installed a different CPU your problems started. You should always reset the CMOS when you get a new mobo because you never know if it was a return. I hope this helps.


----------



## unrealskill

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Here's what you need to do.
> 1. Reset your CMOS
> 2. Go into BIOS and make sure you have your optical drive set as primary boot
> 3. Restart and install Windows of your choice (preferably 64 bit 7)
> 4. Update BIOS if any problems persist after Windows install.
> The reason that you're having these problems is probably because this was a returned mobo that the CMOS wasn't reset on. Once you installed a different CPU your problems started. You should always reset the CMOS when you get a new mobo because you never know if it was a return. I hope this helps.


i have tryed to reset the cmos by removing the bat on the mobo a few times. then i go into the bios and set the optical drive as primary boot it go's to the same screen and reboots again and again. i know the hdd is good it worked fine in my old rig just 2 days ago but my old rig is from 06.

also i checked the bios and it shows 3200mhz and shows my ram,and the right hdd and dvd drive.

edit: now it just keeps rebooting without showing the posts screen . and once in a blue moon it will show and i can get into the bios then it just reboot when i was in the bios. grrrrrrr


----------



## idle15

I have GA-990FXA-UD3 flashed to Bios ver. F5 and trying to install Win 7 on OCZ 120GB SATA 3 SSD. I can not boot from CD/DVD when I set the onChip SATA type to AHCI in the Bios. But it will if I change it to IDE. I have read the performance is not the best if running in IDE mode. I Have read most of this thread and can't find the answer. Any help is appreciated.


----------



## joojoo

I'm having a problem with mine as well, mine though freezes at the Post screen. It will post and beep, loads info about what is plugged in and will just hang. Pressing DEL key to get to BIOS or any other available option won't do anything. I'd like to note that before this happened, the computer froze and I immediately shut it down. Noticed that the NB was REALLY HOT. It was hot before, but never this hot. Maybe 'can only touch for a few seconds hot'. but this is 'will cook bacon hot' Is this thing dead? RMA time? please help.
*990fxa-ud3
tested other components from working computer: cpu, memory, psu, vga, hdd. I also tried to reset CMOS jumper and now, it just hangs on ugly gigabyte splash screen.


----------



## unrealskill

opps i did the psu calculator wrong lol i oonly need 330w psu lol damn it back to the drawing board.


----------



## idle15

Found the problem. The cheapo lightscribe DVD will not run in AHCI mode, had to set port 4 - 5 to IDE and use that port for DVD.


----------



## BramSLI1

unrealskill, did you happen to notice what your temperatures were when you in the BIOS? It really is starting to sound like the motherboard itself is bad though. If clearing the CMOS didn't help I really can't think of anything else to do. The only other thing that might cause this would be a faulty power supply. Are you using the full eight pin connection or just a four pin for your CPU?


----------



## unrealskill

i found out what is was guys! it was the darn psu! i hooked up my freinds psu witch is 600w and im on windows 7 now


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Are you aware also that if one has already installed windows that there is a registry hack to set AHCI if it was IDE at the start , there is a thread somewhere on OCN about it , and it's easy to do ...


look on window's. there is an official hotfix for IDE to ACHI after install. I have used it a few times now, works fine. just run it and then change to AHCI in the BIOS.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> I'm not looking anywhere , no need to as "I" do not need it , quit being a obnoxious troll , and quote the actual people who are in need of assistance , and not through me! , i'ts 'called riding on the back of' , and generally associated with a Parasite!


dude, grow up already.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

hey guys. just got my UD-3 up and running still testing for stability hope ill get better results out of this board then my 880G. as much crap as that board was it hit 4.2 w/ 3ghz nb on my 1090t so im very excited to see what i can get with a REAL MOBO. go gigabyte for saving me from my MSI mess.

wish list PC: UD-7/sli460s/DOZER+ liquid!! *droool*


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Per a previous post enquiry , these seem the differences that a quick look show for the UD3 , on V1.2 there is a larger chip near the vrm's and missing a diode and resistor.near the pciex .
> 
> V1 are circled in red , V1.2 are in yellow ..
> 
> On the larger chip can be seen Gigabyte SATA 2


Seems they are using different supplier or model of the cpu socket too on the rev 1.2


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Hey guys,

So my new rig is finally up and running








After many more hours trying to fix the problem I just ended up formatting my SSD and reinstalling windows and it works now :S

Currently I've clocked my AMD FX 8150 to 4770mhz on all 8 cores @ 1.47 volts.
Max Temp 60c with room temps high 20's and case temp of 34c "hot weekend in Perth, WA"

BF3 - AVG 85 FPS 'highest res and settings'
3D Mark 2011 - P5900 'performance mode - full run gpu & cpu'
Superpi 1 million - a slow 19s

So does anyone know what the max volts is for this chip? Is it safe to be around the 1.55volts?
My old AMD Phenom II 955BE 125W B2 use to be happy @ 1.57volts @ 4.1ghz on the 780GX mobo.

Will post up more results and validations later this week.

Thanks for your help guys


----------



## FEAR6655

Hey guys, I have just recently got my GA-990FXA-UD3 and 1090T setup and have some questions regarding cooling. I am either looking at the Antec Kuhler 620 or Arctic Freezer 13 Pro.

Does anyone know if the preinstalled backplate on the UD3 is held on by glue or foam tape or anything, or just by the screws? And would anyone know that, since the AMD mounts mean the Freezer would have it's long side over the memory banks, does this clear the memory (I have standard height modules)?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FEAR6655*
> 
> Hey guys, I have just recently got my GA-990FXA-UD3 and 1090T setup and have some questions regarding cooling. I am either looking at the Antec Kuhler 620 or Arctic Freezer 13 Pro.
> Does anyone know if the preinstalled backplate on the UD3 is held on by glue or foam tape or anything, or just by the screws? And would anyone know that, since the AMD mounts mean the Freezer would have it's long side over the memory banks, does this clear the memory (I have standard height modules)?


The backplate is held in by screw's, no tape or anything. I would do the Antec 620, its a beastly little hydro unit.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## FEAR6655

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FEAR6655*
> 
> Hey guys, I have just recently got my GA-990FXA-UD3 and 1090T setup and have some questions regarding cooling. I am either looking at the Antec Kuhler 620 or Arctic Freezer 13 Pro.
> Does anyone know if the preinstalled backplate on the UD3 is held on by glue or foam tape or anything, or just by the screws? And would anyone know that, since the AMD mounts mean the Freezer would have it's long side over the memory banks, does this clear the memory (I have standard height modules)?
> 
> 
> 
> The backplate is held in by screw's, no tape or anything. I would do the Antec 620, its a beastly little hydro unit.
Click to expand...

Yeah that's what I was leaning towards, it will help a lot more with the case ambient temp as the CPU heat isn't blowing around in there. Only negative thing with that is it means disassembling the build as my case doesn't have a window behind the CPU socket







Oh well it's not too much of a job. Thank's for the info


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Seems they are using different supplier or model of the cpu socket too on the rev 1.2
> 
> 
> 
> Hey yea , i never noticed that , thanks.
> 
> Was it you that was in the other post? , i to lazy to find it , but if so i looked in the pdf manual last night and saw that where that larger chip is it's the spot for the Marvell ic , which who-ever it was
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also mentioned ....
> 
> cheers.....
Click to expand...

Indeed, seems again they improve the back panel esata port by adding a better controller (maybe not better but giving the job to another chip). I hope i can myself a better pic (more resolution) to check it with more detail.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## bicen

Anybody try the F7g bios with the UD5 and a non-fx chip? I'm still on F6 and not sure if I should wait for F7 or just hop on the bios. Trying to get stable at a lower voltage, hoping for less vdroop/rise.


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicen*
> 
> Anybody try the F7g bios with the UD5 and a non-fx chip? I'm still on F6 and not sure if I should wait for F7 or just hop on the bios. Trying to get stable at a lower voltage, hoping for less vdroop/rise.


wondering the exact same thing
since updating to f6 my overclocks are no longer stable


----------



## mystikalrush

Were the recent beta bios for these boards suppose to improve BD?


----------



## bicen

Well, on the UD5 page it says: To enable AM3+ AMD FX-Series CPU support, please update your motherboard with the most current BIOS found in your motherboard's download section. The newest bios posted on the site is F7g. What I don't know is, did they post that before or after the most recent update?









http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#bios


----------



## bicen

There is a new option on my UD5 with the F7g bios, what is this?


----------



## tw33k

I'm officially no longer a member of this club. My new board arrived today and I'm real excited

Such a pity because the UD7 had potential but Gigabyte's lack of support drove me away from their products forever.


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tw33k*
> 
> I'm officially no longer a member of this club. My new board arrived today and I'm real excited
> Such a pity because the UD7 had potential but Gigabyte's lack of support drove me away from their products forever.


I know that feel bra


----------



## bicen

Hey, I just updated to f7g, and honestly. It is worth updating. The F5 bios was definately better than the F6, but with the F7g i get the stableness of the F5 along with getting my 1100T stable @ 4.1ghz with 1.5v, vs. the 1.55 i needed with F6

Also, disabling the AMD APM is suppose to fix throttling issues, whether it is for both FX and the AM3 or just one of them, I do not know. It seems to have made a difference disabling it though.


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicen*
> 
> Hey, I just updated to f7g, and honestly. It is worth updating. The F5 bios was definately better than the F6, but with the F7g i get the stableness of the F5 along with getting my 1100T stable @ 4.1ghz with 1.5v, vs. the 1.55 i needed with F6
> Also, disabling the AMD APM is suppose to fix throttling issues, whether it is for both FX and the AM3 or just one of them, I do not know. It seems to have made a difference disabling it though.


thanks +rep
will try soon


----------



## bicen

One more thing, I did read on another board earlier, a guy who also had the UD5, upgraded his bios to F7g and had LLC options under advance options show up. Someone then asked him what rev his board was and he saw that it was rev. 1.1. I didn't realize there was a rev. 1.1 out for the UD5 now, I knew about the UD3, but I can't find any documentation on a new revision UD5. I'll see if I can find that board post so I can add the link.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

I believe those headers comes with the case...

PS: nice link... i'm checking some interesting stuff there


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bicen*
> 
> 
> There is a new option on my UD5 with the F7g bios, what is this?


Hey Bicen,

APM is AMD's "Advance Power Management".

And I am experiencing really bad volt drops and rises @ higher clock speeds too. I am running F6 revision on the 990FXA-UD5.


----------



## Heidi

So, should this APM be off or on for OC?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> So, should this APM be off or on for OC?


Off


----------



## unrealskill

any having trouble view cpu temps? i have tryed every program out there and i get nothing

im on windows 7 64bit with bios f6e ud3


----------



## LBGreenthumb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FEAR6655*
> 
> Hey guys, I have just recently got my GA-990FXA-UD3 and 1090T setup and have some questions regarding cooling. I am either looking at the Antec Kuhler 620 or Arctic Freezer 13 Pro.
> Does anyone know if the preinstalled backplate on the UD3 is held on by glue or foam tape or anything, or just by the screws? And would anyone know that, since the AMD mounts mean the Freezer would have it's long side over the memory banks, does this clear the memory (I have standard height modules)?


The stock backplate is just kept in by 4 screws from the heatsink bracket. Im not sure about that cooler, but most aftermarket cooler companys make sure their heatsinks with clear regular sized (OEM) memory sticks without the huge heatsinks. So if you are using memory with the large heatsinks chances are that the cpu cooler with block 1 memory slot.


----------



## unrealskill

opps i mean f6e


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unrealskill*
> 
> any having trouble view cpu temps? i have tryed every program out there and i get nothing
> 
> im on windows 7 64bit with bios f6e ud3


Its a known bug when you have "unlock cores" option activated. Dunno if other motherboards have it that way.

Check if the option is activated and disable it.


----------



## unrealskill

found out what it was







idk how but the core unlocker in the bios was on


----------



## Demonkev666

UD7 F7F bios has set one core per-compute.
Not just compute unit disable.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonkev666*
> 
> UD7 F7F bios has set one core per-compute.
> Not just compute unit disable.


Wot?


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Demonkev666*
> 
> UD7 F7F bios has set one core per-compute.
> Not just compute unit disable.
> 
> 
> 
> Wot?
Click to expand...

ok normal stetting 8 threads 4 modules

Set *one core* _per module_-4 threads. 4 modules.

the core control disables modules instead of cores. a "compute" is a _module._

disable compute 2-3
disable compute 4-5
disable compute 6-7


----------



## sbeast

i downloaded the F5 Bios for my 990fxa-ud3, but i dont know how to install it, the program it came with claims it cant run on 64bit system? what do i need to do?


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbeast*
> 
> i downloaded the F5 Bios for my 990fxa-ud3, but i dont know how to install it, the program it came with claims it cant run on 64bit system? what do i need to do?


download @bios from gigabyte, then set it to install from file.


----------



## sbeast

my 990fxa-ud3 is rev 1.1 . ill attempt updating the BIOS to F5 tommorow. im running prime95 to test my 3.3ghz overclock (stock voltages so far)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbeast*
> 
> my 990fxa-ud3 is rev 1.1 . ill attempt updating the BIOS to F5 tommorow. im running prime95 to test my 3.3ghz overclock (stock voltages so far)


With my UD3 board the F5 BIOS was more stable than other versions. I would jump BIOS then do your overcocking.


----------



## Marshmellow17

Add me to the club, have UD3 with a 965. Currently have it at 3.825Ghz and 1.36v. This being my first AMD rig, all I did was jump the multi, didn't mess with the volts or fsb. Speaking of which, how does the fsb/northbridge/ram speed work on am AMD rig? My last computer was a 775 intel, which was as easy as bump fsb/voltage until it crashes. Now I have all these other adjustables, and no idea what to do with them.


----------



## BramSLI1

Marshmellow17, just start with the multi and bump up the voltage a little bit. That processor should be able to hit at least 4.0.


----------



## Delzanno

So..

Can anyone give some feedback regarding version F7 BIOS on the UD7 board?

Just reinstalled Win7 and cleared CMOS FYI.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marshmellow17*
> 
> Add me to the club, have UD3 with a 965. Currently have it at 3.825Ghz and 1.36v. This being my first AMD rig, all I did was jump the multi, didn't mess with the volts or fsb. Speaking of which, how does the fsb/northbridge/ram speed work on am AMD rig? My last computer was a 775 intel, which was as easy as bump fsb/voltage until it crashes. Now I have all these other adjustables, and no idea what to do with them.


Leave RAM at stock. Bump the Vcore voltage up some. Maby try 1.45v. Also a note if your new to OC'ing an AMD rig, bump up the NB freq. your going to want it at at least 2600. Higher is better! Here are my oc settings. They are very very basic, but very very stable.

CPU Bus: 200
CPU multi: 20.0
Vcore: 1.450
CPU/NB: 2600
CPU/NB Voltage: 1.35

If that is stable, then you can do one of two things. Try to lower your voltage down as low as you can, or you can try to push past 4.0 on the CPU and push as close to 3000 on the NB as you can get. Good luck!


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delzanno*
> 
> So..
> 
> Can anyone give some feedback regarding version F7 BIOS on the UD7 board?
> 
> Just reinstalled Win7 and cleared CMOS FYI.


You can disable power throttling with F7 with BD CPUs.
I haven't installed it yet.


----------



## Delzanno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*
> 
> You can disable power throttling with F7 with BD CPUs.
> I haven't installed it yet.


Maybe i´ve should have put up som hardware specs aswell..

I am running on X6 1090T.

What version are you running on BIOS?

Regards


----------



## mikezachlowe2004

Hey guys. There is a guy over here looking for *F6c* bios for his *GA-990FXA-UD3*.

Can you guys help him out. I dont know where to go to find it so I figured I would hand it over to you guys since you know about the gigabyte boards.

This is him here: *tomclapton*

Hope you guys can help him out with this.

Thank you.


----------



## apsve

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone else is having trouble getting SataIII speeds on their SSDs. I have a 64GB Crucial M4 and I'm only hitting high end SataII speeds on it.


----------



## vinton13

Hey...quick question. I'm using the 990FXA UD7...I am wondering, did they release a fix for the vdroop issue yet?


----------



## Evil Penguin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13*
> 
> Hey...quick question. I'm using the 990FXA UD7...I am wondering, did they release a fix for the vdroop issue yet?


They won't.
You'll have to get a revision 1.1 board that has LLC.
No BIOS will be able to fix the vdrop issues that 1.0 boards have.
You can raise the voltage to compensate, but it's annoying running the CPU 1.65v idle to get 1.55v under load for example.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delzanno*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Evil Penguin*
> 
> You can disable power throttling with F7 with BD CPUs.
> I haven't installed it yet.
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe i´ve should have put up som hardware specs aswell..
> 
> I am running on X6 1090T.
> 
> What version are you running on BIOS?
> 
> Regards
Click to expand...

F7f


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

i've got bad volt drop on the GA990FX UD5 on the F6 BIOS.

Currently I have my volts @ 1.52volts max temps is 59c on water.
Problem I noticed when use amd overdrive to check stability is that the volts drop down to 1.44volts :S and drops of two cores!!

wth


----------



## R4Z0R

I <3 my ud3. Not so much the UD5. unstable voltages annoy me. and are dangerous once you exceed 1.52v


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R4Z0R*
> 
> I <3 my ud3. Not so much the UD5. unstable voltages annoy me. and are dangerous once you exceed 1.52v


I love my UD3 too great boards! have not had a single problem with the board.


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I love my UD3 too great boards! have not had a single problem with the board.


but are you running a FX 8150 bulldozer?

I would of thought the UD5 and UD7 would be a better board? how can the cheapest be the better board???


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGaZZaDaG*
> 
> but are you running a FX 8150 bulldozer?
> I would of thought the UD5 and UD7 would be a better board? how can the cheapest be the better board???


No, Bulldozer was to big of a fail for my sig rig. I use a 955BE. I went with the UD3 for one reason. The 5 and 7 have wicked Vdroop and Boost. The UD3 has a small amount of droop but nothing like what the 5 or 7 have. I see people do nothing but piss and moan about their UD5/7. While I have been able to hit 4.2 GHz on my CPU and 2800 on my North bridge no problems. The most Vdroop I have seen is 0.010v

I am glad I went with the UD3 over the others


----------



## Ansel

*Howdy, and a Fan Header Question*

Hi, Got my parts (see Ansel rig in sig), building rig now for serious photography use plus some programming. My existing deskside computer is over seven years old, so now is not too soon for a new one. The new one is my first build (I've only done things like add disk to the old deskside machine).

My question is about connecting the Rosewill Challenger case fans to the Gigabyte motherboard. The case has three fans: front 120, top 140, and rear 120. I also have a CPU cooler fan which will obviously go into the CPU fan header. But the board has two system fan headers and one "power supply fan" header. My power supply has its own fan (no surprise). Can I (should I) connect one of the case fans into the PSU fan header? Any guidance as to which fan to which header?


----------



## Ansel

In the intervening time I figured out what to do. The rear fan has a three pin connector (black, red, yYellow wires), which can go to Sys_fan2. The other two fans are simple two-wire fans and have big 4 pin connectors (only 2 pins wired) which can mate up with connectors on one of the power cables. Otherwise I'd have to cut wires and find connectors and even then it wouldn't get me anything, as far as I can tell.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Marshmellow17

Hey all,

Not to beat a dead horse here, but I have some questions on temp limits with this board....

In hardware monitor, my TMPIN 0/1/2 are maxing out at some crazy numbers:

TMPIN 0: min:35 max:85
1: min:48 max:85
2: min:59 max:88

I've arrange my fan configuration around about 8 different times, and so far this has helped the best. I just want to make sure I'm not going to start popping my VRM's and frying my NB.

Also, my CPU temps, at 3.8Ghz and 1.36v idle at 38-40 and max around 58, so I'm not sure why my TMPIN temps are so out of whack considering one of those is the CPU socket.

ps: Sorry for my horrible formatting and grammar, I just got done a mission and I'm tired.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marshmellow17*
> 
> Hey all,
> Not to beat a dead horse here, but I have some questions on temp limits with this board....
> In hardware monitor, my TMPIN 0/1/2 are maxing out at some crazy numbers:
> TMPIN 0: min:35 max:85
> 1: min:48 max:85
> 2: min:59 max:88
> I've arrange my fan configuration around about 8 different times, and so far this has helped the best. I just want to make sure I'm not going to start popping my VRM's and frying my NB.
> Also, my CPU temps, at 3.8Ghz and 1.36v idle at 38-40 and max around 58, so I'm not sure why my TMPIN temps are so out of whack considering one of those is the CPU socket.
> ps: Sorry for my horrible formatting and grammar, I just got done a mission and I'm tired.


Some Temp monitor programs give false numbers with the UD3. Have you used Open Hardware Monitor? Try it. For me HWM and AMD OverDrive Give wrong temps.


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Marshmellow17*
> 
> Hey all,
> Not to beat a dead horse here, but I have some questions on temp limits with this board....
> In hardware monitor, my TMPIN 0/1/2 are maxing out at some crazy numbers:
> TMPIN 0: min:35 max:85
> 1: min:48 max:85
> 2: min:59 max:88
> I've arrange my fan configuration around about 8 different times, and so far this has helped the best. I just want to make sure I'm not going to start popping my VRM's and frying my NB.
> Also, my CPU temps, at 3.8Ghz and 1.36v idle at 38-40 and max around 58, so I'm not sure why my TMPIN temps are so out of whack considering one of those is the CPU socket.
> ps: Sorry for my horrible formatting and grammar, I just got done a mission and I'm tired.
> 
> 
> 
> Some Temp monitor programs give false numbers with the UD3. Have you used Open Hardware Monitor? Try it. For me HWM and AMD OverDrive Give wrong temps.
Click to expand...

sounds like the sensor bug. I know my ud5 has it and it doesn't matter what program you use it will jump to 90 but it is a sensor bug. Not sure if the ud3 or 7 has this same problem or not.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> sounds like the sensor bug. I know my ud5 has it and it doesn't matter what program you use it will jump to 90 but it is a sensor bug. Not sure if the ud3 or 7 has this same problem or not.


With the UD3 try changing to a different program. I found I like open hardware monitor much better than hardware monitor. More options and bug free on my UD3


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## PeteJM

Just wondering if anyone else had this issue when using their SSD or Sata 6 device on the AMD side of the SATA controller. In IDE I was testing and got good scores, but when I was wiping the SSD and went to AHCI I noticed the drivers Gigabyte provides are waaaay old. I ended up using the Win XP 64 bit drivers for the preinstall of Win 7 and am hoping this will work fine, but we will see.

Interesting that Gigabyte has not given us updated drivers as of yet for this controller IMHO. The device was made in 2011 but we are using unsigned drivers that the board will not recognize? I Mean come on.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## NI3

Hey, I am trying to help someone out, does the 990FXA-UD3 require a bios update to use AM3+ cpus?

To anyone who assists, thank you very much.


----------



## pony-tail

Some do - some do not .
Nearly all of the ones ( if not all ) that shipped before BD release do - recent ones probably not depending on when the wholesaler got them .


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NI3*
> 
> Hey, I am trying to help someone out, does the 990FXA-UD3 require a bios update to use AM3+ cpus?
> 
> To anyone who assists, thank you very much.


For the UD3 the fully support for BD chips starts by using F4 bios o higher.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NI3*
> 
> Hey, I am trying to help someone out, does the 990FXA-UD3 require a bios update to use AM3+ cpus?
> To anyone who assists, thank you very much.


My UD3 came with a BD BIOS already installed. Got mine from Microcenter. some do, some dont.


----------



## rawsteel

F7h is out for UD5


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

I hope the "Quick Boost" means shorter "loading operating system..." time XD


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel*
> 
> F7h is out for UD5


has anyone with a GA990FXA-UD5 tried this BIOS yet?? or am I going to have to try it alone


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGaZZaDaG*
> 
> has anyone with a GA990FXA-UD5 tried this BIOS yet?? or am I going to have to try it alone


okay... well I just booted up in the new bios F7h for GA990FXA-UD5.
see comments below on the new update.

*POSITIVES 'if you can call them that'*

1.) New features in BIOS to disable cores up to 6 cores.
2.) Benchmarks haven't moved up or down.

*NEGATIVES 'so far'*
1.) still experiencing 0.05-0.08 volt drop.
2.) DDR3 2133mhz ram is no longer supported by the multipliers to use it at its max, the cap is 1866mhz








3.) still to discover more...


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> But , i did notice the bios still does not pick and setup the ram automatically , still the default of 1333mhz , my ram is 1600 , the old bios's a few years ago did!


That's weird... my UD5 has had no problem with finding and picking the right CAS and voltage for my Ripjaws. They are 1600 and have had no problem installing and running at stock on F6 BIOS.

It amazes me how much UD3, UD5, and UD7 differ. They are all 990FXA, why the subtle differences in V-droop and RAM stock timings, etc?


----------



## Rik756

Hello all,

Obvious noob to the forum but very very glad that I found you guys. I'm a novice (at best) builder and it's time for hasty upgrade.

Yesterday I was updrading from an GF8800 GTS 512 to a Radeon HD6850 (MW3 and BF3 are both under the tree) and accidentally scraped a cap off of my mobo near the PCI slot (GA-EX38-DQ6) so naturally it is toast. I'm not even sure where it was and the leads were so small that there is no way I could ever have soldiered them back on.

So with some tearful and pouty eyes I explained to the wife what happened and got the sympathy-go-ahead to get some replacement parts.

Since I had a GA-EX38-DQ6 with DDR2 ram and a Q6600 I pretty much needed a barebones setup.

Yesterday I ordered:
GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 with an AMD Phenom II X6 1090T and Corsair Vengeance 8 GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600 MHz to replace what I had. This is where you guys come in. It will all be here tomorrow and I would like to know of any known pitfalls and issues that I might address before I do the install or when trying to breathe life into it. I will be wanting to overclock to maybe 4ghz if I can get there. (Full system specs in rig) I *think* overall I should see a pretty decent improvement in speed a gaming performance.

Anyway, BIOS settings are what I will really need help with the most. BIOS flashing versions/revisions and settings just confuse the **** out of me!

Any settings advice or anything helpful really, would be greatly appreciated. It's a little too late for recommendations on parts unless there is major known conflict with something. Both the CPU and RAM are on the approved/tested list for the mobo.

Thanks guys!

Rik


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rik756*
> 
> Hello all,
> Obvious noob to the forum but very very glad that I found you guys. I'm a novice (at best) builder and it's time for hasty upgrade.
> Yesterday I was updrading from an GF8800 GTS 512 to a Radeon HD6850 (MW3 and BF3 are both under the tree) and accidentally scraped a cap off of my mobo near the PCI slot (GA-EX38-DQ6) so naturally it is toast. I'm not even sure where it was and the leads were so small that there is no way I could ever have soldiered them back on.
> So with some tearful and pouty eyes I explained to the wife what happened and got the sympathy-go-ahead to get some replacement parts.
> Since I had a GA-EX38-DQ6 with DDR2 ram and a Q6600 I pretty much needed a barebones setup.
> Yesterday I ordered:
> GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 with an AMD Phenom II X6 1090T and Corsair Vengeance 8 GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600 MHz to replace what I had. This is where you guys come in. It will all be here tomorrow and I would like to know of any known pitfalls and issues that I might address before I do the install or when trying to breathe life into it. I will be wanting to overclock to maybe 4ghz if I can get there. (Full system specs in rig) I *think* overall I should see a pretty decent improvement in speed a gaming performance.
> Anyway, BIOS settings are what I will really need help with the most. BIOS flashing versions/revisions and settings just confuse the **** out of me!
> Any settings advice or anything helpful really, would be greatly appreciated. It's a little too late for recommendations on parts unless there is major known conflict with something. Both the CPU and RAM are on the approved/tested list for the mobo.
> Thanks guys!
> Rik


Don't worry. This stuff is pretty easy Your first step is going to be to see what BIOS your board is shipped with. As far as the BIOS go's you won't have to fiddle withit much at all. Unless your overclocking the only thing your going to have to fiddle with is RAM. I will bet that your RAM auto set's to 1333 with the wrong timings. That is some easy stuff. You don't even have to deal with setting ACHI mode on(if your HDD's support it) you can use the window's hotfix to do it.

Avoid using the CD That come's with the mobo if you can. Use the downloads from the site.

BIOS flashing is very easy too. Use Gigabyte's @BIOS utility and instructions off the site.
Before you download any BIOS or anything you will want to check the revision of the board. There are 3 total if I am not mistaken(1.0,1.1 and 1.2)

Feel free to post any question's in here. You will be Overclocking your new Thuban in no time! Good luck!


----------



## Rik756

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rik756*
> 
> Hello all,
> Obvious noob to the forum but very very glad that I found you guys. I'm a novice (at best) builder and it's time for hasty upgrade.
> Yesterday I was updrading from an GF8800 GTS 512 to a Radeon HD6850 (MW3 and BF3 are both under the tree) and accidentally scraped a cap off of my mobo near the PCI slot (GA-EX38-DQ6) so naturally it is toast. I'm not even sure where it was and the leads were so small that there is no way I could ever have soldiered them back on.
> So with some tearful and pouty eyes I explained to the wife what happened and got the sympathy-go-ahead to get some replacement parts.
> Since I had a GA-EX38-DQ6 with DDR2 ram and a Q6600 I pretty much needed a barebones setup.
> Yesterday I ordered:
> GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 with an AMD Phenom II X6 1090T and Corsair Vengeance 8 GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600 MHz to replace what I had. This is where you guys come in. It will all be here tomorrow and I would like to know of any known pitfalls and issues that I might address before I do the install or when trying to breathe life into it. I will be wanting to overclock to maybe 4ghz if I can get there. (Full system specs in rig) I *think* overall I should see a pretty decent improvement in speed a gaming performance.
> Anyway, BIOS settings are what I will really need help with the most. BIOS flashing versions/revisions and settings just confuse the **** out of me!
> Any settings advice or anything helpful really, would be greatly appreciated. It's a little too late for recommendations on parts unless there is major known conflict with something. Both the CPU and RAM are on the approved/tested list for the mobo.
> Thanks guys!
> Rik
> 
> 
> 
> Don't worry. This stuff is pretty easy Your first step is going to be to see what BIOS your board is shipped with. As far as the BIOS go's you won't have to fiddle withit much at all. Unless your overclocking the only thing your going to have to fiddle with is RAM. I will bet that your RAM auto set's to 1333 with the wrong timings. That is some easy stuff. You don't even have to deal with setting ACHI mode on(if your HDD's support it) you can use the window's hotfix to do it.
> 
> Avoid using the CD That come's with the mobo if you can. Use the downloads from the site.
> 
> BIOS flashing is very easy too. Use Gigabyte's @BIOS utility and instructions off the site.
> Before you download any BIOS or anything you will want to check the revision of the board. There are 3 total if I am not mistaken(1.0,1.1 and 1.2)
> 
> Feel free to post any question's in here. You will be Overclocking your new Thuban in no time! Good luck!
Click to expand...

KhaoticKomputing,

Thanks for the info. I HOPE it's as easy as you make it sound. My first build experience included RMA'ing several sticks of OCZ RAM on the first build so that left me a little uncertain. I'm not sure I ever got it totally right before, but I hope to max this one out!

Rik


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## FragZero

Anyone using the UD3 with a 470? I bought 2 470s from a tri-sli set, they ran on an X58 motherboard.

One works flaweless
One refuses to work in any configuration - i seem to be expiriencing the dreaded starting/welcome screen freeze.

I was hoping someone here would know which biossettings influence the cards - ive seen a lot of possible fixes but no luck so far


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## tomclapton

hey could anyone link me to a guide to updating my bios? i have the ud3 board and am going from f4 to f6c if it matters.

i found a guide on gigabyte site but it was for q1700 not sure if its still the same for mine


----------



## FragZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> The only thing i noticed was mine would not boot if i had not set it to PCI in ithe bios .
> I'm not in the bios of course at the moment and a poor memory , but where it says to boot first for video , with xfire it had to be pci? i think , not the other one...
> ps- you did the complete removal in windows before you installed the cards (drivers and stuff) , in device manager .
> Then install cards and then in bios pci , and you should boot up and look at a large basic screen to install the drivrs and all that...
> good luck..


Well i get it to boot fine - can get in safemode to install drivers etc.

It's just when i try to boot windows in normal-mode with drivers installed it gets stuck at the "Starting Windows" screen - or sometimes it gets past it and hangs on a black screen right before welcome.

This seems to be a very annoying problem which some ppl have solved by changing bios parameters - drivers or worst case scenario, RMA ing the card.

Previous owner had it on a totally different platform (x58 - trisli) so i might just have worked flaweless in his pc.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomclapton*
> 
> hey could anyone link me to a guide to updating my bios? i have the ud3 board and am going from f4 to f6c if it matters.
> i found a guide on gigabyte site but it was for q1700 not sure if its still the same for mine



Go here and download the BIOS you want.
Format a flash drive
Stick flash drive into USB port
Unpack contents of the .exe to your USB flash drive
Restart your system
Hit F12 on boot. I recommend hammering the F12 key (softly) until BIOS boots into the startup device screen
Choose the HDD USB option and hit enter
It should just walk you through the process after it detects and runs the flash drive.
BAM, it should prompt you that it's complete and hit a specific key to restart.
I may have some of the phrasing off because I'm not staring at it, but if you need help let me know. It's pretty straight forward.

*OR the Gigabyte explanation*

When updating the BIOS, choose the location where the BIOS file is saved. The following procedure assumes that you save the BIOS file to a USB flash drive.

Step 1:
1. Insert the USB flash drive containing the BIOS file into the computer. In the main menu of Q-Flash, use the up or down arrow key to select Update BIOS from Drive and press Enter.

Step 2:
The process of the system reading the BIOS file from the USB flash drive is displayed on the screen. When the message "Are you sure to update BIOS?" appears, press Enter to begin the BIOS update. The monitor will display the update process.

Step 3:
When the update process is complete, press any key to return to the main menu.

2. Select HDD 1-0 and press Enter.

3. Select the BIOS update file and press Enter.

• The Save Main BIOS to Drive option allows you to save the current BIOS file.
• Q-Flash only supports USB flash drive or hard drives using FAT32/16/12 file system.
• If the BIOS update file is saved to a hard drive in RAID/AHCI mode or a hard drive attached to
an independent SATA controller, use the End key during the POST to access Q-Flash.

Step 4:
Press Esc and then Enter to exit Q-Flash and reboot the system. As the system boots, you should see the new BIOS version is present on the POST screen.

Step 5:
During the POST, press Delete to enter BIOS Setup. Select Load Optimized Defaults and press Enter to load BIOS defaults. System will re-detect all peripheral devices after a BIOS update, so we recommend that you reload BIOS defaults.

Step 6:
Select Save & Exit Setup and then press Y to save settings to CMOS and exit BIOS Setup. The procedure is complete after the system restarts.


----------



## FragZero

Tried everything with the asus card - i was hoping that there was some magic settings which would allow my pc to boot (like some other motherboards have)...

No 470 sli for me, single 470 or 570 it'll be


----------



## major1337

sorry... i have misunderstood something and gave a stupid answer back =)


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## tomclapton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> 
> Go here and download the BIOS you want.
> Format a flash drive
> Stick flash drive into USB port
> Unpack contents of the .exe to your USB flash drive
> Restart your system
> Hit F12 on boot. I recommend hammering the F12 key (softly) until BIOS boots into the startup device screen
> Choose the HDD USB option and hit enter
> It should just walk you through the process after it detects and runs the flash drive.
> BAM, it should prompt you that it's complete and hit a specific key to restart.
> I may have some of the phrasing off because I'm not staring at it, but if you need help let me know. It's pretty straight forward.
> *OR the Gigabyte explanation*
> When updating the BIOS, choose the location where the BIOS file is saved. The following procedure assumes that you save the BIOS file to a USB flash drive.
> Step 1:
> 1. Insert the USB flash drive containing the BIOS file into the computer. In the main menu of Q-Flash, use the up or down arrow key to select Update BIOS from Drive and press Enter.
> Step 2:
> The process of the system reading the BIOS file from the USB flash drive is displayed on the screen. When the message "Are you sure to update BIOS?" appears, press Enter to begin the BIOS update. The monitor will display the update process.
> Step 3:
> When the update process is complete, press any key to return to the main menu.
> 2. Select HDD 1-0 and press Enter.
> 3. Select the BIOS update file and press Enter.
> • The Save Main BIOS to Drive option allows you to save the current BIOS file.
> • Q-Flash only supports USB flash drive or hard drives using FAT32/16/12 file system.
> • If the BIOS update file is saved to a hard drive in RAID/AHCI mode or a hard drive attached to
> an independent SATA controller, use the End key during the POST to access Q-Flash.
> Step 4:
> Press Esc and then Enter to exit Q-Flash and reboot the system. As the system boots, you should see the new BIOS version is present on the POST screen.
> Step 5:
> During the POST, press Delete to enter BIOS Setup. Select Load Optimized Defaults and press Enter to load BIOS defaults. System will re-detect all peripheral devices after a BIOS update, so we recommend that you reload BIOS defaults.
> Step 6:
> Select Save & Exit Setup and then press Y to save settings to CMOS and exit BIOS Setup. The procedure is complete after the system restarts.


thank you very much for that! was hoping to get some clarification before i messed with bios.


----------



## FragZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdgig*
> 
> A 470 or 570 is better than NOTHING
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , aye!


It ruins my plan :'( ( 2x watercooled 470 for little over the price of a 570 )

Gonna keep the working 470 - (downgrade from my 570) and see what amd brings next!


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tomclapton*
> 
> thank you very much for that! was hoping to get some clarification before i messed with bios.


No problem, buddy. Anything I can do to help out new members/ builders


----------



## Rik756

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tomclapton*
> 
> thank you very much for that! was hoping to get some clarification before i messed with bios.
> 
> 
> 
> No problem, buddy. Anything I can do to help out new members/ builders
Click to expand...

Well I could use some help too! I did my intro post a few days ago http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/...ries-owners-thread-club/2260_20#post_15983301 and now I have it all put together and running seemingly ok. (*GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 1.1, 8gb (2x4gb) Corsair Vengeance with a 1090T cooled by CM Hyper 212 Plus*).

Per advice from KhaoticKomputing, I did not even insert the mobo disk and downloaded all the drivers from their site.

Anyway, several questions.

1. You were talking about updating bios via USB but KhaoticKomputing recommended using the @bios provided by Gigiabyte to update the bios with frankly sounds easier. Especially since I don't have a spare flash drive. What is the difference between the two? F5 is what mine came with but some reading above makes it sound like the new F6 version might be worth looking into before I begin to try and OC.

2. Stock temps- At idle it sits at about 26c and as I type this Prime is running it at 100% load (3.2ghz) and it's at 38-40c after about an hour. For stock temps, I assume that means I'm ok with cooler installation? I sill have 4- 120mm side fans to plug back in but I don't know that they will change the CPU that much.

3. On the cooler- it completely blocks the first ram slot. I initially had the ram in slots 3 and 4 but after reviewing the manual some more it recommended using 1/3 or 2/4. So I installed the ram in slots 2/4 but the stick in slot 2 actually sits against the cpu fan. Think this will be problem? I don't think it touches the actual heat sink, just the platic part of the fan. Also, CPUID shows my ram to be in slots 3/4 still. Is that an issue or it just that program being confused?

4. Should I wait until I solve the bios version issue before I begin to OC or really change any bios settings or will they carry-over to the new version?

I promise I RTFF quite a bit before asking but this is a REALLY long threat with lots of side issues.

Edit Here: After 1 hour of Prime there are no errors and temps never got over 41 (stock speeds).

Stock Prime.JPG 130k .JPG file


Stock Temps.JPG 41k .JPG file


Thanks all,
Rik


----------



## Vesku

Your RAM must have some tall heatsinks (never understood why brands like corsair make them so tall), my 16GB of GSkill DDR3-1600 fit with my Hyper 212+ Push-Pull.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rik756*
> 
> Well I could use some help too! I did my intro post a few days ago http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/...ries-owners-thread-club/2260_20#post_15983301 and now I have it all put together and running seemingly ok. (*GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 1.1, 8gb (2x4gb) Corsair Vengeance with a 1090T cooled by CM Hyper 212 Plus*).
> Per advice from KhaoticKomputing, I did not even insert the mobo disk and downloaded all the drivers from their site.
> Anyway, several questions.
> 1. You were talking about updating bios via USB but KhaoticKomputing recommended using the @bios provided by Gigiabyte to update the bios with frankly sounds easier. Especially since I don't have a spare flash drive. What is the difference between the two? F5 is what mine came with but some reading above makes it sound like the new F6 version might be worth looking into before I begin to try and OC.
> 2. Stock temps- At idle it sits at about 26c and as I type this Prime is running it at 100% load (3.2ghz) and it's at 38-40c after about an hour. For stock temps, I assume that means I'm ok with cooler installation? I sill have 4- 120mm side fans to plug back in but I don't know that they will change the CPU that much.
> 3. On the cooler- it completely blocks the first ram slot. I initially had the ram in slots 3 and 4 but after reviewing the manual some more it recommended using 1/3 or 2/4. So I installed the ram in slots 2/4 but the stick in slot 2 actually sits against the cpu fan. Think this will be problem? I don't think it touches the actual heat sink, just the platic part of the fan. Also, CPUID shows my ram to be in slots 3/4 still. Is that an issue or it just that program being confused?
> 4. Should I wait until I solve the bios version issue before I begin to OC or really change any bios settings or will they carry-over to the new version?
> I promise I RTFF quite a bit before asking but this is a REALLY long threat with lots of side issues.
> Edit Here: After 1 hour of Prime there are no errors and temps never got over 41 (stock speeds).
> 
> Stock Prime.JPG 130k .JPG file
> 
> 
> Stock Temps.JPG 41k .JPG file
> 
> Thanks all,
> Rik


~Read this~ it will explain how to "flash" your BIOS in a few different ways for your gigabyte board. In all honesty I would leave your BIOS alone if your on F5 BIOS. Flash to a new BIOS if the F5 give's you problems.

I suggest you leave it because if you do somthing wrong you might turn your mobo into a brick(kill it dead). I use the F5 BIOS just fine, even have some heavy overclock's going.

For temp monitoring I suggest you use Open Hardware Monitor or CPUID's Hardware Monitor

I use OHW and love it. reason to use these temps is so you can keep an eye on your motherboard/Northbridge temps while stress testing.
Your CPU's thermal limit is 62c, however overclocking will become unstable in the 55c+ range. Your northbridge temps are fine and safe up to 80c.
Your temps appear to be ok, ignore the idle temps, they are useless only worry about full load temps.

Test prime for 8+ hours(overnight). or use Intel Burn Test. And dont forget to overclock the snot out of the Nortbridge

EDIT: page 16 in the owner's manual says that if your using two stick of ram you should place them in DDR3_1 and DDR3_2

Its ok to slide the fan on the hyper 212+ up a little bit to clear the ram, or you can flip the fan to the back side of the cooler as a pull fan.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesku*
> 
> Your RAM must have some tall heatsinks (never understood why brands like corsair make them so tall), my 16GB of GSkill DDR3-1600 fit with my Hyper 212+ Push-Pull.


Yea, the heat sinks are a total joke. its just good marketing to all the uneducated people out there. Some of the Corsair RAM has a removable heat sink, its pretty spiffy.


----------



## Rik756

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Vesku*
> 
> Your RAM must have some tall heatsinks (never understood why brands like corsair make them so tall), my 16GB of GSkill DDR3-1600 fit with my Hyper 212+ Push-Pull.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, the heat sinks are a total joke. its just good marketing to all the uneducated people out there. Some of the Corsair RAM has a removable heat sink, its pretty spiffy.
Click to expand...

@ Vesku and KhaoticKomputing- yes, they are very tall. After reading what KhaoticKomputing found in the manual I am a bit bummed now. I misread it and thought that bank 2/4 would be fine. Good catch! Unfortunately, the first slot is completely blocked by the CPU cooler. The second slot is the one that touches the fan. It won't matter which side the fan is on, it will still touch. I either have to chop the CPU heat sink, chop the ram heat sink or change one of those two parts to get the ram in the "recommended" slots. See attached. I don't mind dremeling off the ram heat sink. See any issue with doing that as long as I cover the chips? This is to assume that the chips themselves are short enough to go under the cpu heat sink...I am

@ KhaoticKomputing- I did download the Open hardware Monitor but I think it's actually a little hard to read/understand. Maybe I just don't get what I'm looking at. It only shows 3 temps for whatever reason and the temps it does show are several degrees higher than Coretemp. You can watch real-time with Core temp too, I'm just not sure which is accurate. See attached.

Ok- keeping with F5 bios then.

Where do I start with the OC on the ram and the CPU? Is there another how-to guide somewhere on here that is pretty specific to MY setup (GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 1.1, 8gb (2x4gb) Corsair Vengeance with a 1090T)? That's really what I want/need. I searched for a few rigs that were the same cpu/board as mine so I could literally just copy and start with there settings but no luck as of yet.

As for the ACHI mode, my hdd should support it, but I have no idea if I would actually see an improvement and from what little I understood of what I read I should have installed some driver during the XP install. I think I read that you said there was a hotfix that could be used, but that's as far as I got so far. How do I know if my drive supports it? (Western Digital Raptor WD1500ADFD 150GB 10000 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 1.5Gb/s 3.5")

Note on the cooler- I was pretty impressed with the template that Coolermaster sent to apply the paste. Assuming it stayed flat and even, I think it should seal up nicely!

Thanks all- Do you guys prefer attachments or images in posts? I've seen both. I prefer images but I'll post whatever the preference here is.

Rik


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rik756*
> 
> @ Vesku and KhaoticKomputing- yes, they are very tall. After reading what KhaoticKomputing found in the manual I am a bit bummed now. I misread it and thought that bank 2/4 would be fine. Good catch! Unfortunately, the first slot is completely blocked by the CPU cooler. The second slot is the one that touches the fan. It won't matter which side the fan is on, it will still touch. I either have to chop the CPU heat sink, chop the ram heat sink or change one of those two parts to get the ram in the "recommended" slots. See attached. I don't mind dremeling off the ram heat sink. See any issue with doing that as long as I cover the chips? This is to assume that the chips themselves are short enough to go under the cpu heat sink...I am
> @ KhaoticKomputing- I did download the Open hardware Monitor but I think it's actually a little hard to read/understand. Maybe I just don't get what I'm looking at. It only shows 3 temps for whatever reason and the temps it does show are several degrees higher than Coretemp. You can watch real-time with Core temp too, I'm just not sure which is accurate. See attached.
> Ok- keeping with F5 bios then.
> Where do I start with the OC on the ram and the CPU? Is there another how-to guide somewhere on here that is pretty specific to MY setup (GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 1.1, 8gb (2x4gb) Corsair Vengeance with a 1090T)? That's really what I want/need. I searched for a few rigs that were the same cpu/board as mine so I could literally just copy and start with there settings but no luck as of yet.
> As for the ACHI mode, my hdd should support it, but I have no idea if I would actually see an improvement and from what little I understood of what I read I should have installed some driver during the XP install. I think I read that you said there was a hotfix that could be used, but that's as far as I got so far. How do I know if my drive supports it? (Western Digital Raptor WD1500ADFD 150GB 10000 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 1.5Gb/s 3.5")
> Note on the cooler- I was pretty impressed with the template that Coolermaster sent to apply the paste. Assuming it stayed flat and even, I think it should seal up nicely!
> Thanks all- Do you guys prefer attachments or images in posts? I've seen both. I prefer images but I'll post whatever the preference here is.
> Rik


Ok, first, turn your cooler the "proper way" lol. Your cooler is mounted South to north, this is not an ideal set up. Here is a pic of a more ideal set up for you.


you want to blow the air to the back of the case, you can place the CPU cooler fan befor the cooler, to push, or after to pull based on how your ram fit's. However according to your pic you have the RAM in the right slots, with plenty of room. Unless I am looking at the wrong upside down pic.

The pic you show of Open hardware monitor seems to be fine.
Virst thing it is showing you is voltage. VCore and Vbatt. Vcore is your CPU voltage.
The Temperatures #1-3 are reading as follow's.

Temp1= CPU socket temp, this is the temp of the socket, not the actual CPU, this temp will be a few C higher than the CPU core temps.
Temp2= the System temp(motherboard)
Temp 3= the Northbridge temp.
Then it shows the current bus and clock speeds of your CPU.
Then it show's your CPU core temps,
The next group is the Load your CPU is under, it show's the load of each core, and the total load across the CPU
Then it show's your GPU voltage's, clock info, fan speed, and temp. also show's load on the GPU core.

You can remove any of the reading you don't want to see, or rename them if you want. It also will show you current value along with min and max value's. When you get AHCI mode turned on it will also show HDD temps.

Are you using Windows XP? Also you should fill out your sig rig so we can see what OS your using and stuff. I know there is an AHCI mode hotfix for windows 7, not sure if one is out for windows XP or vista.


----------



## Rik756

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rik756*
> 
> @ Vesku and KhaoticKomputing- yes, they are very tall. After reading what KhaoticKomputing found in the manual I am a bit bummed now. I misread it and thought that bank 2/4 would be fine. Good catch! Unfortunately, the first slot is completely blocked by the CPU cooler. The second slot is the one that touches the fan. It won't matter which side the fan is on, it will still touch. I either have to chop the CPU heat sink, chop the ram heat sink or change one of those two parts to get the ram in the "recommended" slots. See attached. I don't mind dremeling off the ram heat sink. See any issue with doing that as long as I cover the chips? This is to assume that the chips themselves are short enough to go under the cpu heat sink...I am
> @ KhaoticKomputing- I did download the Open hardware Monitor but I think it's actually a little hard to read/understand. Maybe I just don't get what I'm looking at. It only shows 3 temps for whatever reason and the temps it does show are several degrees higher than Coretemp. You can watch real-time with Core temp too, I'm just not sure which is accurate. See attached.
> Ok- keeping with F5 bios then.
> Where do I start with the OC on the ram and the CPU? Is there another how-to guide somewhere on here that is pretty specific to MY setup (GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 1.1, 8gb (2x4gb) Corsair Vengeance with a 1090T)? That's really what I want/need. I searched for a few rigs that were the same cpu/board as mine so I could literally just copy and start with there settings but no luck as of yet.
> As for the ACHI mode, my hdd should support it, but I have no idea if I would actually see an improvement and from what little I understood of what I read I should have installed some driver during the XP install. I think I read that you said there was a hotfix that could be used, but that's as far as I got so far. How do I know if my drive supports it? (Western Digital Raptor WD1500ADFD 150GB 10000 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 1.5Gb/s 3.5")
> Note on the cooler- I was pretty impressed with the template that Coolermaster sent to apply the paste. Assuming it stayed flat and even, I think it should seal up nicely!
> Thanks all- Do you guys prefer attachments or images in posts? I've seen both. I prefer images but I'll post whatever the preference here is.
> Rik
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, first, turn your cooler the "proper way" lol. Your cooler is mounted South to north, this is not an ideal set up. Here is a pic of a more ideal set up for you.
> 
> 
> you want to blow the air to the back of the case, you can place the CPU cooler fan befor the cooler, to push, or after to pull based on how your ram fit's. However according to your pic you have the RAM in the right slots, with plenty of room. Unless I am looking at the wrong upside down pic.
> 
> The pic you show of Open hardware monitor seems to be fine.
> Virst thing it is showing you is voltage. VCore and Vbatt. Vcore is your CPU voltage.
> The Temperatures #1-3 are reading as follow's.
> 
> Temp1= CPU socket temp, this is the temp of the socket, not the actual CPU, this temp will be a few C higher than the CPU core temps.
> Temp2= the System temp(motherboard)
> Temp 3= the Northbridge temp.
> Then it shows the current bus and clock speeds of your CPU.
> Then it show's your CPU core temps,
> The next group is the Load your CPU is under, it show's the load of each core, and the total load across the CPU
> Then it show's your GPU voltage's, clock info, fan speed, and temp. also show's load on the GPU core.
> 
> You can remove any of the reading you don't want to see, or rename them if you want. It also will show you current value along with min and max value's. When you get AHCI mode turned on it will also show HDD temps.
> 
> Are you using Windows XP? Also you should fill out your sig rig so we can see what OS your using and stuff. I know there is an AHCI mode hotfix for windows 7, not sure if one is out for windows XP or vista.
Click to expand...

OK- I tried to get it to blow out the back but the bracket wouldnt fit around the heat pipes that way. Or at least so I thought. Can you give some detail on how you got yours to fit? Mine came with an adjustable bracket, but it simply wouldn't adjust to the rectangular shape that it needed. Obviously I missed something. As for the ram, the pretty heat sinks were really flmsy metal and with all the glue and goop they used to stick them on, I'm certain my 4 side fans blowing directly on them will keep them cooler than the heat sinks did.

I also "think" I have the ram in the right slots per the book (the text at the bottom gives different into from the diagram) but after hosing up something similar like the cooler maybe not so much







Also, my post screen says my memory "unganged". I've read a little about that and it seems 50/50 on whether that's good or bad. Your thoughts?My rig info is filled out- or I think it is. I'll double check. Im still running XP...

Once I get the cooler issue resolved, we'll talk about that nb!

*Edit Here: My rig info is completed from when I joined a few days ago. Is there something special I need to do so it will show up? I looked and didn't see anything.*

Thanks,
Rik


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rik756*
> 
> OK- I tried to get it to blow out the back but the bracket wouldnt fit around the heat pipes that way. Or at least so I thought. Can you give some detail on how you got yours to fit? Mine came with an adjustable bracket, but it simply wouldn't adjust to the rectangular shape that it needed. Obviously I missed something. As for the ram, the pretty heat sinks were really flmsy metal and with all the glue and goop they used to stick them on, I'm certain my 4 side fans blowing directly on them will keep them cooler than the heat sinks did.
> I also "think" I have the ram in the right slots per the book (the text at the bottom gives different into from the diagram) but after hosing up something similar like the cooler maybe not so much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my post screen says my memory "unganged". I've read a little about that and it seems 50/50 on whether that's good or bad. Your thoughts?My rig info is filled out- or I think it is. I'll double check. Im still running XP...
> Once I get the cooler issue resolved, we'll talk about that nb!
> *Edit Here: My rig info is completed from when I joined a few days ago. Is there something special I need to do so it will show up? I looked and didn't see anything.*
> Thanks,
> Rik


The 212+ mount is kinda weird. I wish I had a camera I could take some pics of what to do. Good that you found out how to get the RAM to fit to your liking. Looks like your ready to start overclocking


----------



## Rik756

Ok- so I pulled the cooler off and there was this LOUD swooshing sound and my head popped outta my @$$. It is now mounted the "proper way"









To make up for my stupidity I went to the spare parts bin and pillaged another 120mm fan to do a push-pull as well. Thanks for the catch. It just took some finagling to get it to fit right and it is tight, but I guess KNOWING that it could work made the difference. Not being 11pm and a few cool, refreshing adult beverages into a build probably wasn't a bad idea anyway.

Can you see my rig setup and if not, what do I have to do to get it visible??

Thanks,
Rik



*Edit Here:* With the cooler in the "proper way", adding the pull fan and putting the side case back on (4 120mm side fans) the load temps only dropped a couple degrees under 100% load with no errors after an hour. I'll burn in overnight when I go to bed tonight and see what it does.


----------



## R4Z0R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGaZZaDaG*
> 
> but are you running a FX 8150 bulldozer?
> I would of thought the UD5 and UD7 would be a better board? how can the cheapest be the better board???


the UD3 has stabler voltages on Phenom II procs. and nobody in their right mind would get an FX chip for anything but rendering and heavy folding. and even for that, i would grab a 2500k for only a little bit less and overclock the crap out of it.


----------



## Heidi

After few weeks of fiddling and playing around with 990FXA-UD3...updated to F6F BIOS, using 4*4GB Corsair Vengeance LP(9-9-9-24 1T) driven by 1090t at 20*200MHz with NB at 2800MHz...voltages, 1.5V for RAM, 1.425V Core and 1.25V NB...I can say I am satisfied with results...
Tried 16*250MHz but it was actually bit slower than 20*200MHz while stability wise...it's like rock...
Any comments?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> After few weeks of fiddling and playing around with 990FXA-UD3...updated to F6F BIOS, using 4*4GB Corsair Vengeance LP(9-9-9-24 1T) driven by 1090t at 20*200MHz with NB at 2800MHz...voltages, 1.5V for RAM, 1.425V Core and 1.25V NB...I can say I am satisfied with results...
> Tried 16*250MHz but it was actually bit slower than 20*200MHz while stability wise...it's like rock...
> Any comments?


Not too shabby. Looks alot like my clock on my 955. Have you made any attempt to hit 3000 on the NB? and what are your temps like?


----------



## Heidi

Well, this is where I should actually try to go…3GHz on NB, but so far not much success…temps are in check, with above mentioned cooling under 100% load barely hits 61 degrees and this is in closed case with 1 fan installed. I have water cooler ready to go in, but since mobo has no fan speed regulation other than on and off and I use CM Excalibur fan for it…there’s no way of installing such…unless GB change their minds and offer us decent fan speeds…what sort of voltage I would experience on NB if I go to the 3.0 mountain?


----------



## Snotty

Well, I need to find out for myself with FX, getting an 8150 this morn








I'll see how well the vdroop goes using the same technique as for Thuban.( Wind it up & allow for lots of sag lol )
Have F5j bios on the ud7 which is good for 4.5ghz boot (that was about it though, at least to OS for a screeny) 4.2ghz x 6 cores solid with h2o.
Had a few sessions at 4.4ghz x 6 for a while with 1.67v on processor which sagged ('drooped' lol very technical term)) to 1.56v under AIDA64 load test. Volts at 4.2 are1.63 which oozed (drooped) down to 1.53v under load.( cpu die temp 38C load, 37C core 1. 26/22 idle) If anyone can give me a headstart on the best bios, would be appreciated. I'm good for FX on current bios so will test on it first.

lol just admitted to myself, justification for the spend is............................... to see a 5ghz cpuid screen on my pc lol.
Looks like the NB will be the challenge. I was under the impression that server fx's do 6.4GT which is 3200 NB .< i may have misread or been misinformed on this 1 so plz don't take as fact.

Many thanx to this forum too for all of the people knowledge and experiences.


----------



## Snotty

F5 doesn't work with BD so doing the right thing and getting latest


----------



## ebduncan

f5 on my ud3 works just fine with my 8120.

i haven't tried the new bios, will prolly give it try once it goes official.


----------



## Snotty

Tried F8 beta







now trying F7 bios , so far it takes an awefull lot of volts to processor to get high cycles. LIKE 1.74v to droop to 1.58v for 5ghz x 8. Temps get to 55C on the cores (Die temp stays close to ambient air temp, which is odd). Not brave enough to check power draw yet :s but i'm already thinking that this processor will be sold soon & i'll be back on the Thuban








I had to blink when i ran cinebench 11.5 , stock was in the low 5's







kinda redeemed itself with mid/low 10's at 5ghz though.
Haven't touched NB yet.
Haven't booted at higher than 5.02 ghz either lol. Going to reapply thermal paste, just in case


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snotty*
> 
> Well, I need to find out for myself with FX, getting an 8150 this morn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll see how well the vdroop goes using the same technique as for Thuban.( Wind it up & allow for lots of sag lol )
> Have F5j bios on the ud7 which is good for 4.5ghz boot (that was about it though, at least to OS for a screeny) 4.2ghz x 6 cores solid with h2o.
> Had a few sessions at 4.4ghz x 6 for a while with 1.67v on processor which sagged ('drooped' lol very technical term)) to 1.56v under AIDA64 load test. Volts at 4.2 are1.63 which oozed (drooped) down to 1.53v under load.( cpu die temp 38C load, 37C core 1. 26/22 idle) If anyone can give me a headstart on the best bios, would be appreciated. I'm good for FX on current bios so will test on it first.
> lol just admitted to myself, justification for the spend is............................... to see a 5ghz cpuid screen on my pc lol.
> Looks like the NB will be the challenge. I was under the impression that server fx's do 6.4GT which is 3200 NB .< i may have misread or been misinformed on this 1 so plz don't take as fact.
> Many thanx to this forum too for all of the people knowledge and experiences.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snotty*
> 
> Tried F8 beta
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now trying F7 bios , so far it takes an awefull lot of volts to processor to get high cycles. LIKE 1.74v to droop to 1.58v for 5ghz x 8. Temps get to 55C on the cores (Die temp stays close to ambient air temp, which is odd). Not brave enough to check power draw yet :s but i'm already thinking that this processor will be sold soon & i'll be back on the Thuban
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to blink when i ran cinebench 11.5 , stock was in the low 5's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kinda redeemed itself with mid/low 10's at 5ghz though.
> Haven't touched NB yet.
> Haven't booted at higher than 5.02 ghz either lol. Going to reapply thermal paste, just in case


I'm using F8a no drop in performance for me anywhere
boards voltages settings are way off
I set 1.675 I get 1.556 on idle and 1.44 load it's never up to what I set in bios EVER.


----------



## moonmanas

so on sigrig im at cpu 4400, cpunb 2400 ht 2400. Voltages? I set cpuv at 1.5215 in bios to be stable yet CPUZ and Aida64 show it at 1.472v idle, and under stress it goes from 1.440-1.424 up and down between those

So is that why Im having difficuty getting cpu beyond 4.4ghz is it ok the to up voltage way up in bios so it actually gets around 1.5+ on idle in cpuz? Or even is it ok to up it so much in bios it shows aroung 1.5v in CPUZ when under stress? Is that the vdroop I read so much about?

Thanks n happy Xmas all


----------



## Ansel

Disable Quick Post on UD3? I'm bringing up the system and I can pause it there with the Pause/Break key, but it would be handy to have it dwell there. I find references to disabling it on other Gigabyte MBs, but it's not in the BIOS setup for the UD3 as far as I can see.


----------



## Snotty

UD 7 may be dif to UD 3. With the ud7 i have , the volts are never the same either lol. I even set 1.8v in bios for 1.68v in aida that drooped to1.44v load. Madness








I changed from TEAM (2x4gig) to the old A-Data (2x 2gig ) ddr3 2000 for both but the team failed at anything over 1333mhz







. Put the A data in & straight to 1866 , with overclock on fsb , took it to 2000mhz mem(1996mhz), 2600 NB & 4.8ghz on processor
:s (Now it is starting to feel fast as 1100T oc'd)
But , still gives, at least 2, 000 pts less in 3dmark06 than the 4.4ghz Thuban hexa with same set up xept slower mem in Thuban.
I guess i'll have to wait till winter to get better clocks. 5.02 ghz is max so far. (hideous voltage though) Leaving it at a comfy 4.8ghz x8.
By the way , to get 5ghz first up i shut down half of the cores to 4 core. Once i got 5ghz I then added cores with voltage increases







saw the highest core load temp yet on my waterblock (57C @ 5ghz with 1.75v in bios. Aida stress test & cinebench doing it's thang at the same time) Managed to get 8.20 in multi cpu test aida 64. highest for 1100T was 7.79 pts. 8150 @ stock was 5 .3 pts lol
The main improvement in system "feeling" faster was taking the NB speed up. Same as Thuban, once over 2.4ghz NB (Thuban got to 3ghz) the Ram latence falls from 56ns to low 40's, and if you can get ram to use 1T in timings , it feels fairdinkum zippy, which it most certainly DIDN'T when i first got it going at stock setup.

I have a thought that i'll be trying out at some stage. I wouldn't mind 2 cents worth from those that might know. The thought is to dump my media PC (no2 machine) and install dual tv tuner and all periferrals & software onto the 8 core. The question is (i've never done it cause never had enough cores) could i, say , record 2 x tv channels, have a few apps (skype etc ) open on 2 monitor whilst racing online in Dirt or F1 on primary monitor? I guess the test would be to do it & see if there is an effect on gameplay :s
oh and








Merry Christmas everyone & all best of luck in 2012


----------



## Ansel

UD3 boot menu issue: No matter what I choose in the F12 boot menu option, it seems to use the boot disk priorities (1st, 2nd, 3rd) set in the BIOS Advanced settings. What gives?


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Snotty

OOOps , sorry bout the BD







(missed that bit)
i have the next 2 days off & most of it is dedicated to my ud7. I shall put the tv tuner in, rebuild the backup raid set and install the software that has nothing to do with games. I'd like to use the pci-e bus for tuner & souncard but at this stage i have PCI tuner & soundcard so







back to onboard sound for a while.
Sorry again for bringing BD in. I want my 1100T back in the socket and the only scenario is if BD can record two shows at the same time whilst I'm doing handbrake turns on MonteCarlo tracks in Dirt3 or nailing Spa in F1 when it's pooring rain







faultlessly .
hmmmmm 2 x monitors might slow the 9650 a bit even though it's 2 gig mem.
lol , it might take more than 2 days but i will next post with a yay or a nay on refitting 1 x 1100T

Nicest reprimand i think i've ever had in my life amdgig







cheers


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## mspiredm3

Can anyone tell me the amperage of the CPU header for the 990fxa-ud3? Sorry if it has been posted before, but trying to find that in over 230 pages wouldn't be easy. Thanks in advance.


----------



## ebduncan

well no official information from gigabyte is listed in the manual.

Asus on the other hand states that 1 amp is the max power draw of their fan headers. Normally something like fan header is pretty standard across makers, so i think it would be rather safe to assume that 1 amp would be the standard across most quality board makers.

look up the amperage rating of your fans, and if you are close to 1 amp total, i would suggest either a 4 pin molex to 3 or 4 pin fan header. Of coarse if you wish to use thermally controlled fans, then perhaps look into a fan controller.


----------



## MadGoat

I'm running a cooler-master Excalibur fan pushing through my h60 with the stock h60 fan pulling (about .80amps combined full tilt), both fed via the cpu fan header with a smart fan (4 pin) y-spliter.

CPU fan header is controlled via the bios smart fan system set to Cpu usage/temp. (system fans set to manual 100%)

I have not had a problem, and they keep silent most of the time... I have however run burn in testing for over 48hrs where the fans pushed 100% during the load. No problem.

the Pump on the other hand is tied into a molex to 3 pin fan connection.


----------



## Heidi

I've CM Excalibur on my Antec 620...similar setup as yours, but noise is unbearable so I went back to Noctua NH-12P with single NF-S12B...so how did you silenced Excalibur on UD3?


----------



## sequoia464

I'm thinking of getting a Gigabyte 990 board - hard to follow all of the posts here but what I seem to be reading is that both the UD5 and UD7 have some voltage stability issues so the UD3 is what I should be considering?? Looks like revision 1.2 is the latest - what are any potential issues with the earlier revisions?


----------



## el gappo

Won a rev 1.1 UD7 today









Got 8 gig validation and better clocks with all cores than on the CHV. Some funny bios/turbo issues tho and it killed the chip when trying to boot 1.8 with extreme LLC. :/ Mixed emotions..


----------



## Citra

Hey guys,

Is there any vdroop on the UD3 I should know about? I may purchase this board in the near future.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Is there any vdroop on the UD3 I should know about? I may purchase this board in the near future.


Tiny vdroop. Running the FX 8120 at 4.5GHz using 1.424v. Drops to 1.408 under load. 'twas similar drop when I had the 965BE. Very good motherboard I think. Maybe the new revisions are better in some ways. Well, they should be..







Might get one of the newer ones in the near future..


----------



## Rik756

Can someone with a UD3 rev 1.1 with F5 bios running a 1090T list out there OC bios settings and voltages so I can jump ahead and use them as a starting point? I'm looking for 4ghz on the CPU and whatever is stable on the NB and HT. Not sure the ram itself is worth messing with much but I'll take that too if anyone has them handy and is using 8gb of Corsair Vengeance.

Thanks


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Tiny vdroop. Running the FX 8120 at 4.5GHz using 1.424v. Drops to 1.408 under load. 'twas similar drop when I had the 965BE. Very good motherboard I think. Maybe the new revisions are better in some ways. Well, they should be..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might get one of the newer ones in the near future..


Thanks.









What about the UD5 and UD7?


----------



## Snotty

UD7(f5) has vdroop, if you allow for it , it IS stable. The higher you go in volts , higher the vdroop. Each chipset will vary but, basically, trial and error is the way to figure it out at the start. Use software that gives a plot or graph of cpu volts , chipset volts etc so's you can see changes. Software may not be accurate but it'll show variations when under load etc..


----------



## a11an

Is anyone watecooling UD5 mosfets? I'm having a hard time finding a compatible block.


----------



## Heidi

I would like to know, what is the lowest core voltage on UD3 and 1090T at, say, 3200MHz...ATMO I am running it at 1.2V and 1.2V NB with 4 DIMMs populated...is that OK? Prime stable indefinitely...


----------



## moosehead11

Looking at getting the UD3 as an upgrade from my existing MB (so i can have SATA3) and was wondering two things. I keep reading about voltage issues (VDROOP) and was wondering if this only comes into play when OCing or if it effects things running at stock? Also does anyone know what RAID Controller the board uses?

Thanks


----------



## Heidi

OK...
OMG...
Huh...
OMG*1024
GA-990FXA-UD3 + FX 8120...
OMG...
OK...
It is just first few shots, but what I am experiencing is bellow any expectations...and it is not up to CPU...I can see that...it is an issue with software...this is just my first shot and I'll keep you ppl informed...


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> OK...
> OMG...
> Huh...
> OMG*1024
> GA-990FXA-UD3 + FX 8120...
> OMG...
> OK...
> It is just first few shots, but what I am experiencing is bellow any expectations...and it is not up to CPU...I can see that...it is an issue with software...this is just my first shot and I'll keep you ppl informed...


----------



## amdgig

.) .


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## moonmanas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> OK...
> OMG...
> Huh...
> OMG*1024
> GA-990FXA-UD3 + FX 8120...
> OMG...
> OK...
> It is just first few shots, but what I am experiencing is bellow any expectations...and it is not up to CPU...I can see that...it is an issue with software...this is just my first shot and I'll keep you ppl informed...


Do yes please keep us informed happy new year too


----------



## bcudasteve

I installed it a couple hours ago, no prob yet









990FXA-UD5
965BE
16 GB CORSAIR DDR3 1600
750 watt ANTEC ps
500 GB WD BE HD


----------



## bcudasteve

sorry, installed bios update F7H


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> I installed it a couple hours ago, no prob yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 990FXA-UD5
> 965BE
> 16 GB CORSAIR DDR3 1600
> 750 watt ANTEC ps
> 500 GB WD BE HD


Very nice. Welcome to OCN.


----------



## bcudasteve

KZONE75,
thanks for the welcome.








p.s. I found a Windows 7 hotfix for the multithreading issue for FX chips.
Microsoft pulled it, but is avail at:
http://downloads.guru3d.com/AMD-Bulldozer-hotfix-from-Microsoft-download-2831.html

update: *not avail anymore*:


----------



## bcudasteve

Apparently Microsoft pulled the multithread hotfix

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5251/microsoft-releases-hotfix-to-improve-bulldozer-performance


----------



## sequoia464

Does anyone know if you can enable 'Write Through' in the raid bios on a UD3?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sequoia464*
> 
> Does anyone know if you can enable 'Write Through' in the raid bios on a UD3?


you can enable this in the raid bios when creating the raid array...

or you can change these parameters within windows utilizing RAIDXpert for an already configured raid array (raid management software installed with AMD drivers package or independently)

Take a look here

Good Luck


----------



## Wild Wally

Hi All,

Anyone else having problems with BIOS F8a on the GA-990FXA-UD7? I have the FX-8150 CPU installed and the bugger refuses to boot regularly. Changing anything in the BIOS, even disabling the splash screen seems to put the kibosh on booting. No bad beep tomes or codes (displays FF which I thought means no errors). Just doesn't want to boot.

WW


----------



## toddincabo

Hello All

Proud owner of a UD3 for a couple of weeks now. Grabbed a 840 for $60 at MC to hold me until Piledriver at the end of this year...

Happy New Year by the way !

I mounted an old ,small Intel CPU fan over the NB after reading on this thread about how hot they get. Also went ahead and mounted another small fan over my VRM heatsink. (both running at 7v). Why not...huh.

I had been using a Gigabyte GA-MA69GM-S2H (Athlon x64 3500+) for years without a hiccup. But I took my pc out to the shed to blow it out real good and upon hooking everything back up.....nada.

I think I may have been stupid and left it plugged in while adding one of the small IO shields and touched something causing a small spark...so yea, stupid is was.

I am loving this new UD3. The Dolby Home Theatre is amazing! My old surround DVD player has no Digital in, so I have been using it through AUX RCA Jacks. Man, what a difference.

I bumped this little 840 up to 3.5 in the bios by only the FSB, no voltage. I'm happy with it big time compared to the backup 3200+ single core I was using until these new goodies arrived.

Can't get my Corsair XMS3 2x4 GB to go up to 1660 with this CPU or whatever, but am happy with 1333.

Just hope Piledriver is smokin' hot, cause I gots' one smokin' hot motherboard to match it with.

So I hope everyone here has a safe and great year ! Nice to know your out there for help. Hasta' Luego


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> you can enable this in the raid bios when creating the raid array...
> or you can change these parameters within windows utilizing RAIDXpert for an already configured raid array (raid management software installed with AMD drivers package or independently)
> Take a look here
> Good Luck


Thanks - for some reason Asus does not implement write through on their 990 boards and it seriously handicaps my SSD's I really like my Sabertooth but I have a UD3 on order because of the caching issues.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Heidi

Lool...I quickly turned back to F5 from F6f...too many F's in it...but this didn't fixed up my bitter taste of FX 8120...I still can't believe how poor it is...not the CPU, don't get me wrong, it has nothing to do with CPU but software...I briefly tested it under Linux and, while not much better, say converting video took considerably less time to chew it...BTW...I am running my FX at 3600 with only 1.2V, and it's quite happy...just to remind you guys, in Everest under Queen test CPU performs like Tualitin Celeron with 1/3 of the 1 single core...that bad...then you switch just one down, and there's more realistic picture...I just wonder if this will be ever remedied to show real performance or not, but, I guess AMD has enough material to ask Intel and MS for another hefty injection of cash...


----------



## a11an

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Is anyone watecooling UD5 mosfets? I'm having a hard time finding a compatible block.


bump!


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> Lool...I quickly turned back to F5 from F6f...too many F's in it...but this didn't fixed up my bitter taste of FX 8120...I still can't believe how poor it is...not the CPU, don't get me wrong, it has nothing to do with CPU but software...I briefly tested it under Linux and, while not much better, say converting video took considerably less time to chew it...BTW...I am running my FX at 3600 with only 1.2V, and it's quite happy...just to remind you guys, in Everest under Queen test CPU performs like Tualitin Celeron with 1/3 of the 1 single core...that bad...then you switch just one down, and there's more realistic picture...I just wonder if this will be ever remedied to show real performance or not, but, I guess AMD has enough material to ask Intel and MS for another hefty injection of cash...


F6f bios is still broken like the f6e.
F5 wont work proerply ether since it doesnt have APM option and has Steam bug.

F6c is the best bios out for the 8120 for the UD3 but it has a voltage bug where voltage raises quite a bit more over the F5 and F6b, 0.08v to be exact.


----------



## Heidi

0.08V into positive or overall oscillations? Thanks for an info...still got no time to play up with seriously...on that board I had 1090t and F5 worked best from stability point of view...thanks again...


----------



## Wild Wally

Hi All,

Word from Gigabyte is FX series processors will only support 2 sticks of RAM at stock speeds. This is why some of you, myself included, experienced RAM speed drops when upgrading from Phenom IIs to the FX series. So, it looks like we'll never max out the RAM on any of our MBs with the FX.

Anybody experience anything different? Could this be a vdroop issue too? So many OEMs blowing smoke these days it's hard to separate out the straight-shooters from the corporate dweebs.

Running GA-990FXA-UD7 with 16 GB DDR3 @1333 instead of 1866 with FX-8150 (when I can get it to boot under F8a







)

WW


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Word from Gigabyte is FX series processors will only support 2 sticks of RAM at stock speeds. This is why some of you, myself included, experienced RAM speed drops when upgrading from Phenom IIs to the FX series. So, it looks like we'll never max out the RAM on any of our MBs with the FX.
> 
> Anybody experience anything different? Could this be a vdroop issue too? So many OEMs blowing smoke these days it's hard to separate out the straight-shooters from the corporate dweebs.
> 
> Running GA-990FXA-UD7 with 16 GB DDR3 @1333 instead of 1866 with FX-8150 (when I can get it to boot under F8a
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> WW


Please, post where do you read that... about the only 2 sticks of ram.


----------



## kzone75

Can't get Corsair XMS3 2000MHz 2x4GHz to work at all with this motherboard/CPU. Can only get into windows at 1033MHz. Did a mem test and they seem to be ok. Tried every settings possible. The XMS3 1600MHz 4x2GHz runs fine. Should try to OC them a little..


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Please, post where do you read that... about the only 2 sticks of ram.


Can't post a link as this was an answer I received from Gigabyte's technical service. Below is my question and their answer.

"Dear Customer,

Please set EOCP under the bios to 1866mhz and can only use 2 modules at these spec as the processor limitation at 1866mhz on only 1 dimmer per channel

Question - 1167852
Sent : 12/19/2011 23:45
Question : I just upgraded my processor to a FX-8150 from a phenom II 980. Now my G Skill 14900CL9 memory will not run above 1333 and it is rated to run at 1866. Under the phenom II it ran at 1600. With the FX-8150 it should now be able to run at the proper speed since the 8150 does support this speed. When I chose the proper speed the PC crashes and the BIOS informs me the system crashed due to overclocking. Since everything is running at stock speeds this is obviously a bug of some sort. F6 BIOS does not properly recognize the FX-8150 so I cannot go backwards there.

FX-8150 running at 3.6 GHz
GA-990FXA-UD7 @ BIOS F7
G Skill Sniper DDR3 RAM 14900CL9 running at 1333
Win7 64 bit SP1
OCZ Revo x2 160 GB SSD Boot
Radeon 6950 Graphics card "

Here is another answer I recieved which may be of some interest:

"Dear Customer,

Unfortunately the drivers are not from Gigabyte as they are AMD driver, you can check AMD website if there is an updated version and you can use that version which are the same.

Question - 1168667
Sent : 12/22/2011 01:14
Question : The chipset drivers listed for download on the Gigabyte site for this board are from early 2010. Competing products with the same chipset offer drivers which are much more recent. Why is this and when will Gigabyte be offering updated chipset drivers?"

Hope this answers your question.

WW


----------



## Wild Wally

Here is some more information regarding memory limitations. This applies to all AM3 processors.

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,2515.0.html

Basically, no AM3 processor will support RAM speeds above 1333 as a default value. You CAN force the RAM to run faster but it is not recommended. Running at 1333 aqnd tightening the memory timings is the recommended solution. I don't know if this applies to AM3+ as well.

WW


----------



## el gappo

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2177956


----------



## kzone75

@el gappo You're the boss.







Did I miss a live stream?


----------



## el gappo

Yup. That was at the Christmas ln2 meet a few days ago


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Here is some more information regarding memory limitations. This applies to all AM3 processors.
> http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,2515.0.html
> Basically, no AM3 processor will support RAM speeds above 1333 as a default value. You CAN force the RAM to run faster but it is not recommended. Running at 1333 aqnd tightening the memory timings is the recommended solution. I don't know if this applies to AM3+ as well.
> WW


WW, that's total BS! I've been running my x6 1090T for several months now with Kingston Hyper X RAM @ 1600MHz. I'm using the F5 BIOS and I've also got my CPU overclocked to 4.2GHz. I've had no problems at all except for the vdroop of course. My CPU voltage is set at 1.5 in the BIOS and I get 1.456 in CPU-Z. Here are the screen shots to prove it. I've got Prime 95 running in the background to stress the CPU and memory. I've run Prime 95 for a full 24 hours without any errors.

CPUZ screen 1.jpg 800k .jpg file


CPUZ screen 2.jpg 796k .jpg file


CPUZ screen 3.jpg 797k .jpg file


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Here is some more information regarding memory limitations. This applies to all AM3 processors.
> http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,2515.0.html
> Basically, no AM3 processor will support RAM speeds above 1333 as a default value. You CAN force the RAM to run faster but it is not recommended. Running at 1333 aqnd tightening the memory timings is the recommended solution. I don't know if this applies to AM3+ as well.
> WW


Wildwally,

Thanks for the tip. As I am running a 965 BE with 16gb of corsair vengeance rated at 1600 MHz @ 1.5 v, I will turn it down to 1333 as your post suggests
(on a 990FXA-UD5)
Appreciate the heads up.









update: (quote from the link WW posted) AMD recommend that you only use memory that appears on the QVL as this has been tested for compatability at higher speeds.
my ram is on the QVL list, so I will set it to stock.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2183414

good stuff.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> 0.08V into positive or overall oscillations? Thanks for an info...still got no time to play up with seriously...on that board I had 1090t and F5 worked best from stability point of view...thanks again...


0.08v into the positive so would be you set 1.4v and get 1.48v under stress.
Where on F5 you would of noticed its only 0.02v so 1.4v goes to 1.42v under load.

If your running a 1090t stick to the F5 since F6's cause BF3 BSOD on Phenom 2 X6 chips or alteast it does for my 2 friends running a 1090t and a 1100t. Happens the exact same time like every 2nd game.
Where with F5 they can get though a few games before they crash and again its both at exactly the same time so Im thinking its a BF3 bug with the X6 chips.

But with a FX chip you need F6c for the chip to run properly just its got the massive voltage increase which makes going for high clocks harder since you need to set a lower voltage and windows might not be stable with that voltage but it will be under load from the increase.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> WW, that's total BS! I've been running my x6 1090T for several months now with Kingston Hyper X RAM @ 1600MHz. I'm using the F5 BIOS and I've also got my CPU overclocked to 4.2GHz. I've had no problems at all except for the vdroop of course. My CPU voltage is set at 1.5 in the BIOS and I get 1.456 in CPU-Z. Here are the screen shots to prove it. I've got Prime 95 running in the background to stress the CPU and memory. I've run Prime 95 for a full 24 hours without any errors.
> 
> CPUZ screen 1.jpg 800k .jpg file
> 
> 
> CPUZ screen 2.jpg 796k .jpg file
> 
> 
> CPUZ screen 3.jpg 797k .jpg file


The recommendation DID come from an official Gigabyte forum in the UK. I don't think it would have been posted there if there wasn't some amount of truth to support the claim although the poster DOES say he is not posting the information as official Gigabyte tech info. He also did say it was possible to get higher than 1333 on AM3 processors but not recommended as there is the possibility of damaging the memory controller(s).

When I was running a Phenom II x4 980 I did get my RAM speed up to 1600 without playing with the bus speed. Anything else I did was rejected as an overclock even though the RAM was rated at 1866. My experience, in general, has been the Phenom II 980 and the FX-8150 are less stable than previous configurations on the GA-990FXA-UD7 and on the older ASUS AM2+ board I was using previously.

If you have some official news from AMD contrary to any of the above please post it. I'd much rather be wrong about this than right.

WW


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

WW is right, AM3 RAM speeds past 1333 are considerd overclocking on an AM3 board, Even if the native RAM freq is 1600 (like mine) it will always auto set my RAM to 1333 and (9-9-9-21 timings). Even look at the RAM speeds supported on the boards, it will say that anything past 1333 is an OC. AM3 boards all do this, all the boards I have ever worked with have been this way. Look on Newegg at AM3 boards under the memory supported. Its simple to go set the timings to stock though. AM3+ socket boards, most of them support up to 1866 with out it technically being an overclock, but some of the low end AM3+ board also have 1600 listed as an overclock.

EDIT: dont bother posting any "Official Gigabyte" info on this board, you will get flamed and people will come up with any reason to not trust any info gigabyte release's about these boards tech specs. Should have seen the Flame war over the NB temps that are safe for these boards. It got nasty, some people got butt sore that Gigabyte says its safe to run the UD3/5/7 NB's to 80-85c without problem. I thought it was pretty funny to see people freak out over it. get used to it WW lol.


----------



## Snotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Anyone else having problems with BIOS F8a on the GA-990FXA-UD7? I have the FX-8150 CPU installed and the bugger refuses to boot regularly. Changing anything in the BIOS, even disabling the splash screen seems to put the kibosh on booting. No bad beep tomes or codes (displays FF which I thought means no errors). Just doesn't want to boot.
> 
> WW


It gave me too much grief so i went the F7 for ud7 & still on it . F7 seems good and only needs me to crash it, as apposed to doing it on it's own. . F8 is beta so i was happy to try F7. Motherboard originally came with F5, which is fine for Deneb n Thuban for high clocks. F7 seems perfect for FX.

Actually , when i think about it, i didn't have my best memory sticks in machine with F8 but even so , it shouldn't be that bad. I stuck with it for a day and was relieved F7 is good


----------



## BramSLI1

WW, I'm just saying that for Gigabyte and AMD to say that it's unsafe is kind of crazy. I'm sure that they are just covering their butts in case there are problems down the road with setting your memory at rated speeds over 1333. I get that, but it still is kind of nuts. My memory isn't posted on their supported list for my motherboard either. I understand that I may be taking a risk by running my memory at its rated speed, I just don't think it's as big a risk as they're saying it is.


----------



## crash01

Hi guys, anyone uses ram over 1.65v?
I know that on AMD u "can" put ddr3 with high voltages..but anyone tried?

thx


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> WW, I'm just saying that for Gigabyte and AMD to say that it's unsafe is kind of crazy. I'm sure that they are just covering their butts in case there are problems down the road with setting your memory at rated speeds over 1333. I get that, but it still is kind of nuts. My memory isn't posted on their supported list for my motherboard either. I understand that I may be taking a risk by running my memory at its rated speed, I just don't think it's as big a risk as they're saying it is.


Hey, no problem here! You are probably right about AMD and Gigabyte being overly cautious about their products to avoid potential lawsuits. Just a sign of the times I'm afraid. It used to be good engineering practice to over design products to improve durability and lifespan but that seems to have gone by the wayside too.

WW


----------



## bicen

I wouldn't recommend voltages much higher than 1.5v for memory, I've had no issue with stability thus far, 16GB Kingston HyperX Genesis DDR3-1600. I've even slightly overclocked the ram to 1680. Anything higher and I've had issues, this memory was rated at 1.65v on AM3 boards but the 990FXA boards say right in the manual that you can run DDR3 at 1.5v. Just make sure you know how the memory slots are numbered, slot 1 is located furthest from the CPU and slot 2 is the 2nd slot from CPU.


----------



## bmgjet

Iv ran 1.7v as a attempt to run 1T at 2ghz but just settled on 1.65 for 2t since it was 1-3% performance increase with 1T.


----------



## bicen

What are your memory timings at 2? I only run 1680 but my timings are 7 8 7 24 1T. I just run my NB at 3Ghz on my 1100T. Do you have a memory cooler? How many sticks?


----------



## ebduncan

most ddr3 2000+ kits are 1.65 voltage.

You don't get alot from overclocking the memory so no reason to push it to its max via voltage. Get what you can on stock voltage if 1.65volts, if 1.5 volts then go to 1.65 and see where you stand. I wouldn't go above 1.7volts at all though.

fastest i've been able to set my ram so far is 1003mhz with 9-10-9-27 timing @ 1.65 volts command rate 1t. Still tinkering with it though.


----------



## bicen

Are you looking at what the memories manufacturer recommends, or are you talking about the board? I think that the older AM3 boards required you to run DDR3 at 1.65v, which is why it is written on the package, but I have a feeling that the AM3+ boards require much less to power the same sticks. It doesn't make sense that all of this DDR3 memory is labeled 1.65v but in the Gigabyte manual it says to run DDR3 at 1.5v.

Here is the memory I have

http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX1600C9D3K2_8GX.pdf

It is rated at 1.65v but when I run it at 1.65v at stock settings I can't overclock let alone run default configs without being unstable. When I dropped the voltage to the motherboards suggestion of 1.5v, I was not only able to get stability, I was able to overclock and run Prime for 12 hours.

Sorry, wasn't aware that he had a 2000 kit, thought he was overclocking. I've never hit 2000 so I perhaps the voltage is much higher.


----------



## NimbleJack

I have been digging around in the forums looking for the answer to a question, and for the life of me I just can't seem to find it. I have found posts of people asking the same question, but no answers. So, please forgive me if this seems like an easy one =S

Can the current bios for the "UD3" Allow core unlocking? I am considering the purchase of a 960t for a gaming rig, hoping to open'er up to 6 cores when not gaming for folding purposes.

Any answer would be great, even if it is a no =)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NimbleJack*
> 
> I have been digging around in the forums looking for the answer to a question, and for the life of me I just can't seem to find it. I have found posts of people asking the same question, but no answers. So, please forgive me if this seems like an easy one =S
> Can the current bios for the "UD3" Allow core unlocking? I am considering the purchase of a 960t for a gaming rig, hoping to open'er up to 6 cores when not gaming for folding purposes.
> Any answer would be great, even if it is a no =)


yes, It can.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## DanielB

I am simply curious as to the required steps to get the rated speeds of RAM when the Motherboard specs state that it supports 1866 at stock with an AM3+ FX CPU. I have used a pair of ddr3 corsair 1866 dimms in the GB recommended config (use one Dimm each in a separate channel) but the speed defaults to 1333. I will go home to night and play with the bios options and possibly shift the Dimms, but I would appreciate any data that is relevant to this process.

GA-990FXA UD3/AMD 4100 FX/Corsair Vengeance 1866

Thanks,

Daniel


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielB*
> 
> I am simply curious as to the required steps to get the rated speeds of RAM when the Motherboard specs state that it supports 1866 at stock with an AM3+ FX CPU. I have used a pair of ddr3 corsair 1866 dimms in the GB recommended config (use one Dimm each in a separate channel) but the speed defaults to 1333. I will go home to night and play with the bios options and possibly shift the Dimms, but I would appreciate any data that is relevant to this process.
> GA-990FXA UD3/AMD 4100 FX/Corsair Vengeance 1866
> Thanks,
> Daniel


all your going to have to do is set the RAM freq and timings in the BIOS to what ever stock is. its very easy, and won't take long to do at all.


----------



## DanielB

Thanks, I had thought that the new 990FX chipset auto sensed the correct Ram timings. I guess I adjust according to what Corsair says are the right settings. There seems to be a lot of debate about how well this works, stability, etc, but I will see.

Thanks,

Daniel


----------



## 240mike

just sent in my enrollment form, i had to manualy set my ram, it showed up at 1333 with super loose timings 11-11-11-12-35 2t and a tRAS of like 40 (yuck) all good now gSkill Ripjaws X 1866 at 1600 with 8-9-8-23-1T and super stable


----------



## NimbleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NimbleJack*
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> yes, It can.
Click to expand...

Thank you!


----------



## bcudasteve

cpuz validation

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2176720

on a 990FXA-UD5 (owned this board since 8/22/11 - teething problems till bios F6, lol)

have a corsair h80 coming next Monday.

updated cpuz validation on 990FXA-UD5
tightened up the 16 gb corsair ram to better timings
small loss in cpu score.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2183414

looking forward to the Corsair H80 liquid cooler via the egg.
hope to do a little oc'ing.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> cpuz validation
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2176720
> on a 990FXA-UD5 (owned this board since 8/22/11 - teething problems till bios F6, lol)
> have a corsair h80 coming next Monday.
> updated cpuz validation on 990FXA-UD5
> tightened up the 16 gb corsair ram to better timings
> small loss in cpu score.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2183414
> looking forward to the Corsair H80 liquid cooler via the egg.
> hope to do a little oc'ing.


You really need to get that chip to 4.0 :0


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

Question for friends build.

The Gigabyte boards like the 990fxa series do they have the boot loop problem like you see in the p67-z68?


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> You really need to get that chip to 4.0 :0


Khaotic,
I am really looking forward to that!
Thx for the encouragement.
Steve

p.s. my current cpu temps ~ 63* - 65*C
hot. after running prime95 for a bit.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Khaotic,
> I am really looking forward to that!
> Thx for the encouragement.
> Steve
> p.s. my current cpu temps ~ 63* - 65*C
> hot.


ohh no, you need to fix that. 62c is the max safe temp for stock clocks. In my experiance anything past 50c can cause instability problems on the Denab based Phenom II's.

With the Silver Arrow I am able to toy with 4.2Ghz and 3000NB. Still working out the kinks but I do have 4.0/2800 perfectly stable for 24/7 usage. Deal with that heat problem and your golden to OC

Quote:


> Question for friends build.
> 
> The Gigabyte boards like the 990fxa series do they have the boot loop problem like you see in the p67-z68?


I have had no such problems with my UD3. My experiance has been great. I would recommend the UD3 to anyone doing a AMD based build. the UD5/7 seem to be slightly worse about BIOS bugs and Vdroop/Boost, but still seem to be good boards.


----------



## sequoia464

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> Question for friends build.
> 
> The Gigabyte boards like the 990fxa series do they have the boot loop problem like you see in the p67-z68?


I don't have one of these, but I have followed this thread for a while - I have never heard of a 990 board having that issue - check out this thread on the Intel boards if you have not seen it yet. It looks like they are starting to narrow the issue down to memory not being set correctly by the bios, this includes voltages.

Link .. http://www.overclock.net/t/1034724/gigabyte-p67-z68-boot-cycling-problem/550#post_16082841


----------



## DanielB

I have to agree. The UD3 board has been very stable. In fact, I'd go so far as to say it is underrated. It is a very well engineered board.

I just can't seem to get the steps right to set the memory to it's proper speed of 1866. I usually avoid raising the voltage if possible and since these DIMMS are rated to run at 1866 at 1.5, I should not have to, but I don't know.

When I switch to manual and change the multiplier to reach 1866, it won't boot and I revert back to default settings

I guess I'll need to go over the latency settings as well, so I'll look at that when I get home tonight. I've been too tired the last few nights to look at it with much detail.

Thanks,

Daniel


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> ohh no, you need to fix that. 62c is the max safe temp for stock clocks. In my experiance anything past 50c can cause instability problems on the Denab based Phenom II's.
> With the Silver Arrow I am able to toy with 4.2Ghz and 3000NB. Still working out the kinks but I do have 4.0/2800 perfectly stable for 24/7 usage. Deal with that heat problem and your golden to OC
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Question for friends build.
> The Gigabyte boards like the 990fxa series do they have the boot loop problem like you see in the p67-z68?
> 
> 
> 
> I have had no such problems with my UD3. My experiance has been great. I would recommend the UD3 to anyone doing a AMD based build. the UD5/7 seem to be slightly worse about BIOS bugs and Vdroop/Boost, but still seem to be good boards.
Click to expand...

Khaotic,
Thx for the info, idle & browsing cpu temp are ~ 42* - 47* C
That 65* C temp was just during prime95 blend torture stress test
Sure am looking forward to that H80!
Steve


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

Does VDroop only mater if your overclocking because i know i wont be overclocking his pc


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> Does VDroop only mater if your overclocking because i know i wont be overclocking his pc


If your not going to overclock then no. The Vdroop/Boost on any of the UD board will be a trivial non existent issue.


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

+1 thanks for the help.

Im probably going back to amd myself because i never head the headaches that i have now with asus and intel ive been really unlucky


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I have to agree. The UD3 board has been very stable. In fact, I'd go so far as to say it is underrated. It is a very well engineered board.
> 
> I just can't seem to get the steps right to set the memory to it's proper speed of 1866. I usually avoid raising the voltage if possible and since these DIMMS are rated to run at 1866 at 1.5, I should not have to, but I don't know.
> 
> When I switch to manual and change the multiplier to reach 1866, it won't boot and I revert back to default settings
> 
> I guess I'll need to go over the latency settings as well, so I'll look at that when I get home tonight. I've been too tired the last few nights to look at it with much detail.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Daniel


Hey Daniel , in your bios turn off C1E, and then set your memory clock. Seems to be a common problem, wonder if they will update the bios to fix this problem in the future.


----------



## fidof650

My sig rig with the GA-990FXA-UD7... AKA the Chupacabra
Cant wait to pick up monitors for an eyefinity set-up.




Still waiting for PMs with memory evaluations for the OP.

~fidof650


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> +1 thanks for the help.
> Im probably going back to amd myself because i never head the headaches that i have now with asus and intel ive been really unlucky


ASUS would be the problem there, in my experiance only their high end boards are worth using, their mid range and el cheapo boards just plain suck lol,


----------



## sequoia464

Anyone know what changes have been made to the UD3 revision 1.2??


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> ASUS would be the problem there, in my experiance only their high end boards are worth using, their mid range and el cheapo boards just plain suck lol,


wouldn't the 990fxa ud3 be a cheap low end board?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> wouldn't the 990fxa ud3 be a cheap low end board?


anything but. I had an Asus board before my UD3. With my old asus board gettings anything past 3.8 on my CPU was impossible, All I did was change out the board to a UD3 and I am at 4.0Ghz CPU @ 1.45v(1.44v after Vdroop kicks in) with a 2800Mhz NB freq @1.30v. Thing is rock solid stable on air. Then when the board did fail it was all out war with ASUS to get them to take back the pice of crap board.

There are only few asus board's that are worth it in my experiance...as long as you don't have to deal with their customer service. The UD3 is the cheapest board in the group(UD5/7) how ever from what I have read the UD5 and 7 have worse Vdroop and tend to be more buggy than the UD3. I wouldn't call it a high end board by any means, but its not a joke or a cheap board either, the results are just stunning. IMO i think the board is a steal for what I payed for it brand new from Microcenter(149.99).

In short its not a low end board, more of a high mid range board


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650*
> 
> My sig rig with the GA-990FXA-UD7... AKA the Chupacabra
> Cant wait to pick up monitors for an eyefinity set-up.
> 
> 
> 
> Still waiting for PMs with memory evaluations for the OP.
> ~fidof650


fidof650,
That's a beautiful system!
Steve

cpuz validation on 990FXA-UD5:
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2183414


----------



## XxVaptex467Xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> anything but. I had an Asus board before my UD3. With my old asus board gettings anything past 3.8 on my CPU was impossible, All I did was change out the board to a UD3 and I am at 4.0Ghz CPU @ 1.45v(1.44v after Vdroop kicks in) with a 2800Mhz NB freq @1.30v. Thing is rock solid stable on air. Then when the board did fail it was all out war with ASUS to get them to take back the pice of crap board.
> There are only few asus board's that are worth it in my experiance...as long as you don't have to deal with their customer service. The UD3 is the cheapest board in the group(UD5/7) how ever from what I have read the UD5 and 7 have worse Vdroop and tend to be more buggy than the UD3. I wouldn't call it a high end board by any means, but its not a joke or a cheap board either, the results are just stunning. IMO i think the board is a steal for what I payed for it brand new from Microcenter(149.99).
> In short its not a low end board, more of a high mid range board


Thanks for your help

is the 990xa another high mid end board the ud3?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XxVaptex467Xx*
> 
> Thanks for your help
> is the 990xa another high mid end board the ud3?


Sorry, But I do not know anything about those, there is another club thread about the 990xa boards, I am positive that one of the members there can clear up that question for you


----------



## waltcujo

I sure hope its a high end board ,it definately seems so when comparing features and its seems to be well built but I'm still in the process of building mine so no idea about actual performance


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Khaotic,
> I am really looking forward to that!
> Thx for the encouragement.
> Steve
> p.s. my current cpu temps ~ 63* - 65*C
> hot. after running prime95 for a bit.


FYI, I had pretty decent cpu cooling with a Zalman CPS 9900 fan but I dropped almost 10 deg C when I switched to a Corsair H100 using four 120 MM fans in a push-pull configuration. I think the H80 you have in the pipeline will go a long ways to solving your heat issues.

WW


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waltcujo*
> 
> I sure hope its a high end board ,it definately seems so when comparing features and its seems to be well built but I'm still in the process of building mine so no idea about actual performance


I'd say extremely high end of the middle range boards.







Beautiful motherboard there. I don't remember what mine looks like anymore, due to the NH-D14 and the tri-slot 6950..


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> FYI, I had pretty decent cpu cooling with a Zalman CPS 9900 fan but I dropped almost 10 deg C when I switched to a Corsair H100 using four 120 MM fans in a push-pull configuration. I think the H80 you have in the pipeline will go a long ways to solving your heat issues.
> WW


WW,

I sure hope so!
Thx for the info re: the H100.
I had been reading reviews for a ~ week before deciding which way to go. My case would not support he H100 without chopping another hole in the top.
Didn't want to go there, lol.
I have a huge CPU air cooled unit- Xigmatek S1284F - that hits my ram, took off the 120mm fan & bent up some fins & put on 2 smaller fans.
Cooled the CPU fine, just still hit ram, it made me nervous doing that...
Took it off, put on the almost useless factory cooler.
The 3 other sealed units looked good too, just think Corsair quality is pretty OK with me, been using their products for many years (ram - flash drives)
Hope my Antec 750 Earthwatts PS is good enough. Not completely modular, partial modular? Kind of strange.
Have a wimpy vid card, GTS 250, will look to upgrade that this summer(?)

Have a great day everyone!
Happy and successful builds to all.
Steve


----------



## MadGoat

I did some more tweaking because I kept getting a random crash that seemed linked to memory somehow.

I found stability by uping my NB to 1.4 from 1.375 and using some more FSB to get to clock. This also enabled me to DRAMATICALLY drop my CPU voltage... which dropped my temps.









(Keep in mind this is with C1E and cool 'n quiet ENABLED. (Turbo boost disabled) This Saves A LOT of power while idling, web browsing and whatnot.

So far this is where I've ended up with: (Pic under full load and leveled off v-boost)



Moderate testing of about 30-45 minutes with load... I will do a true stress period tonight. (But very happy with 1.456v load! )

Latest Pic of the setup through the case window:


----------



## bcudasteve

Mad,
Nice pic!
Is that a Corsair H50, H60 or H70 cooling kit?
Steve


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Mad,
> Nice pic!
> Is that a Corsair H50, H60 or H70 cooling kit?
> Steve


That is a H60 with an added Cooler Master Excalibur 120mm fan in push config (stock H60 fan sandwiched on the other side of the rad)

I went with the H60 because of its CRAZY easy mounting system with AMD procs. No back plate either. I'm Very impressed with it.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> That is a H60 with an added Cooler Master Excalibur 120mm fan in push config (stock H60 fan sandwiched on the other side of the rad)
> I went with the H60 because of its CRAZY easy mounting system with AMD procs. No back plate either. I'm Very impressed with it.


Mad,

Looks like it's working very well for you!
Great!

I'm sure looking forward to receiving the H80 this coming Monday via the Egg.

Steve


----------



## Snotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielB*
> 
> I have to agree. The UD3 board has been very stable. In fact, I'd go so far as to say it is underrated. It is a very well engineered board.
> 
> I just can't seem to get the steps right to set the memory to it's proper speed of 1866. I usually avoid raising the voltage if possible and since these DIMMS are rated to run at 1866 at 1.5, I should not have to, but I don't know.
> 
> When I switch to manual and change the multiplier to reach 1866, it won't boot and I revert back to default settings
> 
> I guess I'll need to go over the latency settings as well, so I'll look at that when I get home tonight. I've been too tired the last few nights to look at it with much detail.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Daniel


i had a similar issue with ripjawX 2133 mhz mem, 2 x 4 gig. Wouldn't do more than 1600 or crash.
Was a bit miffed that i was having trouble. Ultimately took mem modules out , & reinserted with an extra nudge in the down force, little bit of a wiggle (very technical) to make sure was fully seated and BINGO got the 1866mhz straight away. Was thinking i had a brummy module but all seems ok now after the "super special little wiggle technique". Basically i was running out of options in settings etc....... always tripped or wouldn't start from bios changes. Dunno what was the cause, m'be some residue from manufacture on contacts (shouldn't be that) but all good now. After the hassle & worry I'm not even going to try getting them higher, just happy they work for now. This is on a 990fx ud7

gl n hf

in case i haven't done so......................WISHING YOU ALL THE BEST FOR 2012 FOLKS

8^))


----------



## Rik756

Hey all,

Still no OC here but trying to make sure I'm even going to be able to with my current setup. The attached report was run while running Prime95 blend with round off checking, two runs of Intel Burn test at Very High, AVG virus scanning and 3DMark11 all at the same time. I can't imagine a scenario where I would use that much juice or ram playing BF3 or MW3 or anything else for that matter but there ya go. Max temp was 49c and I really don't have a clue what the rest of the report is telling me.

For those that DO understand all the numebrs and stuff, can someone tell me if it looks normal for my rig and what if any OC room I have currently. I may be able to drop for an H60 if it would make THAT much difference.

Any info is appreciated.

Sig rig is accurate but just in case-

UD3 Rev 1.1 w/ F5 bios
1090T black w/ hyper 212+ push/pull
8gb Corsair Vengeance
Win7 64bit
HD 6850

OpenHardwareMonitor.Report.txt 25k .txt file

Thanks!


----------



## horror1229

hey guys i know this is off topic but...
I just got the ud3 everything runs great .I read elswhere that temps in monitoring tools are as such
temp1 system
temp2 cpu
temp3 nb
The problem is when i stress my cpu with prime the temp that raises the fastest is temp3 leading me to believe temp3 is actually cpu temp
idle temp1 27c , temp2 26c temp3 30c
100% load temp 1 29c temp2 37c temp3 44c
if temp2 was cpu woldnt it rise much faster than nb temps at 100% cpu load ? AMD od coincides with this thought showing cpu temp the same as temp3 . While easytune6 shows cpu temp same as temp2. any thoughts .

x6 1100t
990fxa ud3
his ice q turbo 6950 2gb
corsair vengance 1600 ram 16gb (4x4)
corsair force gt 120gb ssd
seagate 1tb 7200rpm hdd
corsair gs700 osu


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rik756*
> 
> Hey all,
> Still no OC here but trying to make sure I'm even going to be able to with my current setup. The attached report was run while running Prime95 blend with round off checking, two runs of Intel Burn test at Very High, AVG virus scanning and 3DMark11 all at the same time. I can't imagine a scenario where I would use that much juice or ram playing BF3 or MW3 or anything else for that matter but there ya go. Max temp was 49c and I really don't have a clue what the rest of the report is telling me.
> For those that DO understand all the numebrs and stuff, can someone tell me if it looks normal for my rig and what if any OC room I have currently. I may be able to drop for an H60 if it would make THAT much difference.
> Any info is appreciated.
> Sig rig is accurate but just in case-
> 
> UD3 Rev 1.1 w/ F5 bios
> 1090T black w/ hyper 212+ push/pull
> 8gb Corsair Vengeance
> Win7 64bit
> HD 6850
> 
> OpenHardwareMonitor.Report.txt 25k .txt file
> 
> Thanks!


Look like you have a little headroom there,

However it also seems that you CPU's voltage is already a bit hit for its base clocks. I would try bumping the multiplier .5 at a time up and testing for stability at least 30 min of prime95 blend each time. See where it tops out with the voltage it has already.

Use something like HwMonitor Or Coretemp to measure the temp. I really don't trust the sensors on the MB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *horror1229*
> 
> hey guys i know this is off topic but...
> I just got the ud3 everything runs great .I read elswhere that temps in monitoring tools are as such
> temp1 system
> temp2 cpu
> temp3 nb
> The problem is when i stress my cpu with prime the temp that raises the fastest is temp3 leading me to believe temp3 is actually cpu temp
> idle temp1 27c , temp2 26c temp3 30c
> 100% load temp 1 29c temp2 37c temp3 44c
> if temp2 was cpu woldnt it rise much faster than nb temps at 100% cpu load ? AMD od coincides with this thought showing cpu temp the same as temp3 . While easytune6 shows cpu temp same as temp2. any thoughts .
> x6 1100t
> 990fxa ud3
> his ice q turbo 6950 2gb
> corsair vengance 1600 ram 16gb (4x4)
> corsair force gt 120gb ssd
> seagate 1tb 7200rpm hdd
> corsair gs700 osu


Again as I said Above, I really dont pay attention to the MB sensors. (never have on any board TBH). I only care about Proc core temp and what my IR gun tells me









The MB northbridge on this board does get blazing hot, but dont worry about it. Its designed to take the heat... however your finger isn't...









My opinion, uninstall the crap software that gigabyte passes off and use trusted software tools.


----------



## horror1229

i used hw monitor , speedfan ,ohwmonitor and aida 64 to crossreference these temps . All reading the same just wanted to let everyone know the temp they are looking at may not be what they think it is . almost positive temp3 in any monitoring software is cpu with this board .


----------



## Rik756

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *horror1229*
> 
> i used hw monitor , speedfan ,ohwmonitor and aida 64 to crossreference these temps . All reading the same just wanted to let everyone know the temp they are looking at may not be what they think it is . almost positive temp3 in any monitoring software is cpu with this board .


I disagree that Temp 3 is the CPU, but I DO agree there are some inconsistencies in what is reading what.

Pic 1 is my readings at idle. Note the CPU temps are at 21.5c on OWM and 22c on Core Temp. Temp 2 (thought to be the CPU is at 27c which sounds about right. Temp 3 being 12c tells me it is probably not my CPU.

Pic 2 is at full load with ITB and Prime both running. Oddly- the CPU temps didn't change on either program which confuses the hell out of me, but temp 2 (thought to be CPU) did jump to 43c which sound accurate.

I'm pretty good and confused now, but I'm not convinced that Temp 3 has anything to do with the CPU.

Anyone???


----------



## MadGoat

if I where to take a stab at it, I say none of them are related to the CPU.

I'd figure that the sensors are monitoring ambient (case temps), northbridge, and mosfet temps...


----------



## ebduncan

guys tmp3 is not the CPU TEMP!

TM3 is the north bridge temp.

gigabyte support confirms this, my results confirm this. Don't believe me or gigabyte? put a fan on your northbridge and watch tmp3 temps drop!

on the ud3 the north bridge runs pretty darn hot. On the ud5-7 they have somewhat improved cooling on the north bridge possibly because of the extra PCI-Express lanes causing more load on the north bridge.

anywho yes the north bridge runs hot, its not a problem. I added a fan to mine for added insurance and since i'm overclocked maybe better fsb headroom.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> guys tmp3 is not the CPU TEMP!
> TM3 is the north bridge temp.
> gigabyte support confirms this, my results confirm this. Don't believe me or gigabyte? put a fan on your northbridge and watch tmp3 temps drop!
> on the ud3 the north bridge runs pretty darn hot. On the ud5-7 they have somewhat improved cooling on the north bridge possibly because of the extra PCI-Express lanes causing more load on the north bridge.
> anywho yes the north bridge runs hot, its not a problem. I added a fan to mine for added insurance and since i'm overclocked maybe better fsb headroom.


^he is right about TMPIN 3 being the NB.

Proof. This subject has been beaten to death, many time's. This info should be posted on the front page **hint hint**.

According to Gigabyte support they test the NB temps to 80c and it was safe.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> All I did was change out the board to a UD3 and I am at 4.0Ghz CPU @ 1.45v(1.44v after Vdroop kicks in) with a 2800Mhz NB freq @1.30v. Thing is rock solid stable on air.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I did some more tweaking because I kept getting a random crash that seemed linked to memory somehow.
> I found stability by uping my NB to 1.4 from 1.375 and using some more FSB to get to clock. This also enabled me to DRAMATICALLY drop my CPU voltage... which dropped my temps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> According to Gigabyte support they test the NB temps to 80c and it was safe.


There are NO negative effects from having your NB temp that high? What kind of gains are you seeing from having your NB at 2800 and how does upping the volts as high as 1.4 affect the temps? Thanks!


----------



## Rik756

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> if I where to take a stab at it, I say none of them are related to the CPU.
> 
> I'd figure that the sensors are monitoring ambient (case temps), northbridge, and mosfet temps...


That would make sense, but how would I explain BOTH Coret Temp and OHM showing my CPU staying the same temp at idle and load? I could see that temp 2 might be the NB, but that wouldn't explain my CPU temp not changing?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> There are NO negative effects from having your NB temp that high? What kind of gains are you seeing from having your NB at 2800 and how does upping the volts as high as 1.4 affect the temps? Thanks!


I run my NB at 2800 with 1.35v never had to go past that, even when playing with 3000 NB. Highest temps I have ever seen my UD3 NB is at 57c I'm using the stock heat sink and TIM, no washer trick







Thats after hours of prime95. Room temp was 85f/29.4c... NB temps have not held me back in overclocking or anything. Never had a problem with my board.

There are a bunch of reasons to push your NB that far! First off its a must on Denab Phenom II's for 2 big reasons. When pushing the overclock its a must for stability. Most of the people on here that have problems with OCing don't push the CPU/NB enough. Second, You will see more performance boost overclocking the CPU/NB than you will just clocking the CPU. Its a big performance boost

according to gigabyte there are NO negative side affects from having your NB run that hot. However, if your overclocking to the max, having your NB ridding at 80c might be a stability issue? just like with the PII's 62c is max but anything past 55c "might" pose a problem with high clock stability.

IMO if your running stock clocks 80c would be HARD to get to from my experiance with the board, and when overclocking I would feel better about being 70c ish or lower(Never been close with 1.35v). Mind you I have nothing at all to back this up, pure assumption on my behalf based on what I know about basic electronics and heat


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> There are NO negative effects from having your NB temp that high? What kind of gains are you seeing from having your NB at 2800 and how does upping the volts as high as 1.4 affect the temps? Thanks!


Good Info:

http://www.overclock.net/t/933649/northbridge-speed-and-low-ram-timing-significance-on-amd-platforms

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=335&Itemid=63&limit=1&limitstart=10


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I run my NB at 2800 with 1.35v never had to go past that, even when playing with 3000 NB. Highest temps I have ever seen my UD3 NB is at 57c I'm using the stock heat sink and TIM, no washer trick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats after hours of prime95. Room temp was 85f/29.4c... NB temps have not held me back in overclocking or anything. Never had a problem with my board.
> There are a bunch of reasons to push your NB that far! First off its a must on Denab Phenom II's for 2 big reasons. When pushing the overclock its a must for stability. Most of the people on here that have problems with OCing don't push the CPU/NB enough. Second, You will see more performance boost overclocking the CPU/NB than you will just clocking the CPU. Its a big performance boost
> according to gigabyte there are NO negative side affects from having your NB run that hot. However, if your overclocking to the max, having your NB ridding at 80c might be a stability issue? just like with the PII's 62c is max but anything past 55c "might" pose a problem with high clock stability.
> IMO if your running stock clocks 80c would be HARD to get to from my experiance with the board, and when overclocking I would feel better about being 70c ish or lower(Never been close with 1.35v). Mind you I have nothing at all to back this up, pure assumption on my behalf based on what I know about basic electronics and heat


Although dead on about the performance benefits and that most don't push th NB up when OC'ing AMD chips...

One thing needs to be CLEARED UP.

*The NB in question regarding overclocking is NOT related to the motherboard AT ALL*.

This is a little confusing and has caused a lot of problems with people overvolting the WRONG NB.

The NB that is overclocked on AMD systems of today, is the integrated Memory controller on the actual CPU die itself. CPU/NB = Memory controller = NB = AMD NB = Northbridge

The "Northbridge" can also be referring to the northbridge of the motherboard. The Motherboard has a North and South bridge responsible to everything from Usb, PciE links, Sata, Ide, etc...

The Northbridge of the motherboard in the Gigabyte 990fxa-ud*x* series boards is refered to as the "NORTHBRIDGE" and NB.

The AMD on die Memory controller NB is referred to in the Bios as the CPU/NB (CPU Northbridge).

Makes sure you are applying the right voltage to the right Northbridge! Increasing voltage on the "motherboard" northbridge (motherboard NB) will only increase motherboard NB temps, it will *not* increase the overclocking headroom of the northbridge (actual memory controller on the CPU) which is the intended goal.

Now, the reasoning behind this ******ed naming confusion?!?
_
Before Memory controllers were integrated onto the CPU die, they were located on the NORTHBRIDGE of the motherboard_. The motherboard was responsible for all memory activities in the system. So when the term Northbridge was used, it was common knowledge that the main portion of the Northbridge logic was the memory controller.

Then came along AMD's incorporated "ON DIE Memory Controller" (or IMC - integrated memory controller). They Still retained the Northbridge moniker even though now it was incorporated on the actual CPU die.

HOWEVER, while this is all good and well, there is still a system controller located on the motherboard that is referred to as the NORTHBRIDGE. And for all intents and purposes is actually the true northbridge. (While the "Northbridge" that is now located on the CPU die is in all reality the "*Memory controller*")

...


----------



## LBear

Well im glad to know that the temp 3 is the NB temp. I had to bump up from 1.35v to 1.45v on the CPU-NB voltage just to boot into windows at 3150mhz, and its even stable at that voltage. The thing is my NB or my CPU temp didnt go up at all. My NB is at 30c and CPU idles at 26c. Temps were the same with my sig rig below


----------



## MadGoat

i had to jump to 1.4 cpu/nb for stability @ 2.85 as well,

But if you have a decent cooler i doubt anyone will see a discernible difference in temp. I did however see a jump in wattage. Which is another reason why I gave up the quest for 4.2ghz. My proc just needs too much voltage to get there.

Temps aren't an issue, its just CRAZY too much wattage at 1.55 compared to 1.44 @ 4.04...


----------



## vlaf

For starters, I want to apologize for bad English.I hope to ask for some help, my configuration is GA-990FXA-UD3 / Phenom II X4 945 / Alpenfohn Matterhorn / 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 (CL 8-8-8-24) / HAF 912 Plus / CM SILENT PRO M600 / MSI 5770 HAWK / ASUS VW222U / Microsoft Reclusa / SPINPOINT F3 500gb / A4Tech XL-760H / ZM-MFC3 /.I ill try to stabilize my processor to 3.6 ghz, but is fail.I ill try voltage cpu core 1.425, nb vid 1.25 , NB 2160 and HT 2160, ram 1279 mhz (10-10-10-24), tried and 1600 (8-8-8-24 1 t, 2 t 9-9-9-24 1 t, 2t), as I do 10 minutes prime is a blue screen, where I'm wrong?Here is the picture:


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Although dead on about the performance benefits and that most don't push th NB up when OC'ing AMD chips...
> One thing needs to be CLEARED UP.
> *The NB in question regarding overclocking is NOT related to the motherboard AT ALL*.
> This is a little confusing and has caused a lot of problems with people overvolting the WRONG NB.
> .


Correct! Sorry if my post was misleading or confusing.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlaf*
> 
> For starters, I want to apologize for bad English.I hope to ask for some help, my configuration is GA-990FXA-UD3 / Phenom II X4 945 / Alpenfohn Matterhorn / 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 (CL 8-8-8-24) / HAF 912 Plus / CM SILENT PRO M600 / MSI 5770 HAWK / ASUS VW222U / Microsoft Reclusa / SPINPOINT F3 500gb / A4Tech XL-760H / ZM-MFC3 /.I ill try to stabilize my processor to 3.6 ghz, but is fail.I ill try voltage cpu core 1.425, nb vid 1.25 , NB 2160 and HT 2160, ram 1279 mhz (10-10-10-24), tried and 1600 (8-8-8-24 1 t, 2 t 9-9-9-24 1 t, 2t), as I do 10 minutes prime is a blue screen, where I'm wrong?Here is the picture:


Hello.

Do you know what your temps where? if below 50c I would try more voltage on the CPU if you have headroom. 1.50v is perfectly safe for a 24/7 clock as long as your cooler can handle the heat.


----------



## vlaf

No problem for cooling this cpu, but this voltages is very much for a 3.6ghz or i am wrong?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlaf*
> 
> No problem for cooling this cpu, but this voltages is very much for a 3.6ghz or i am wrong?


No, pends on the chip. Some will need lots of voltage for a minor clock, other's dont need squat to clock like a champ. Also his NB is too low. 2600+ for stability.

EDIT: Here is how I overclock my Phenom II's. Set CPU voltage and CPU/NB voltage to the maxximum safe 24/7 voltage's. (For me I set them to 1.50Vcore(CPU) and 1.40(CPU/NB). Then I start playing with Overclock settings, buss speed multi what ever. When I get a clock I like I will back the voltage's off one at a time, small step by small step. Do this with each voltage until it fails a test, then add a little more to the last one you changed. Easy way for me to find the sweet spot for voltage's. Final voltage's ended up being 1.45vore and 1.30 CPU/NB.

And leave the ram at 100% stock. Tweak the RAM after you get a stable CPU and CPU/NB


----------



## C6ZR1

Hey guys,

could someone please assist me in updating my BIOS. I have the gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 mobo.

thanks


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlaf*
> 
> For starters, I want to apologize for bad English.I hope to ask for some help, my configuration is GA-990FXA-UD3 / Phenom II X4 945 / Alpenfohn Matterhorn / 8GB Corsair Vengeance DDR3-1600 (CL 8-8-8-24) / HAF 912 Plus / CM SILENT PRO M600 / MSI 5770 HAWK / ASUS VW222U / Microsoft Reclusa / SPINPOINT F3 500gb / A4Tech XL-760H / ZM-MFC3 /.I ill try to stabilize my processor to 3.6 ghz, but is fail.I ill try voltage cpu core 1.425, nb vid 1.25 , NB 2160 and HT 2160, ram 1279 mhz (10-10-10-24), tried and 1600 (8-8-8-24 1 t, 2 t 9-9-9-24 1 t, 2t), as I do 10 minutes prime is a blue screen, where I'm wrong?Here is the picture:


Voltage on the cpu core should be enough,

However Khaotic has some good advice. Bump your NB multiplier up to x10.

Also, I always noticed that running the same voltage to the HT bus as the CPU/NB can help stability as well. I would try 1.3v on both HT and CPU/NB.

another thing to push is your memory voltage. It is showing 1.49v in that picture. push the Memory voltage to around 1.6v. The UD3 boards are really off on the memory voltage from the bios. For example: I have mine set @ 1.7v in the bios to net me 1.66 actual dimm voltage. Setting the voltage to 1.65v in the bios will get you just a hair over 1.6 actual volts.

try this out and let us know.

GL and welcome to the Community!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C6ZR1*
> 
> Hey guys,
> could someone please assist me in updating my BIOS. I have the gigabyte 990FXA-UD7 mobo.
> thanks


Download your bios here and extract it to a drive / Location you can easily remeber...

http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3880#bios

Using the Gigabyte q-flash utillity that is built into the board is pretty easy. Here is a short video showing a little bit about how to use it.

(Although this video is not of your exact board, it is a gigabyte board using the same q-flash utillity.)


----------



## LBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Bump your NB multiplier up to x10. I always noticed that running the same voltage to the HT bus as the CPU/NB help stability as well. I would try 1.3v on both HT and CPU/NB.


HT bus? Are you referring to the HT link voltage?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear*
> 
> HT bus? Are you referring to the HT link voltage?


yes indeed I am...


----------



## Vesku

@Rik756

I have a very similar 1090T and Hyper 212+ Push/Pull setup. My chip also defaults to 1.44 and it did apparently need to stay at that voltage to hit 3.8GHz.. My Hyper 212+ couldn't quite keep the heat down to hit 4GHz with my 2 video cards adding heat to the case air. I'd expect you can hit a similar 3.8GHz and 2600/2800 NB with your current setup, assuming your ambient room temperature is not something like 80F.


----------



## Heidi

OK guys...

Here's my preliminary results...after days and days of testing and reading...this is what I have achieved...



AIDA 64 gave me this...can't go any higher...



FInally, there's quick run with Cinebench 11.5...





Now...I have a problem...
NB wont go a one milimeter from default, or straight away there's BSOD...same goes if I try to do FSB OC...no way...
ATMO I am using F6f again with APM disabled as well as TCB...and I did install a MS BD patch just to give it a go...
So, ppl, what do you think...
I am looking for "workable" OC...24/7 thing without a noise and high temps...and must admit, once you leave 4GHz BD starting changing it's facial grimace into fairly wolfie one...


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> Now...I have a problem...
> NB wont go a one milimeter from default, or straight away there's BSOD...same goes if I try to do FSB OC...no way...


Voltage voltage and more voltage...

Juice the crap out of it... thts pretty much the name of the game with dozer...


----------



## Heidi

So, what is the limits...Vcore 1.55 and Vnb 1.45 or something else? What is preferable voltage level...I wouldn't be too happy to go over, say, 1.4 to the core n about 1.35 to the NB...any suggestions?


----------



## MadGoat

From what Im seeing and reading, 1.45 -1.5v on the core as long as you can manage the heat well enough.

GL to ya


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heidi*
> 
> OK guys...
> Here's my preliminary results...after days and days of testing and reading...this is what I have achieved...
> 
> AIDA 64 gave me this...can't go any higher...
> 
> FInally, there's quick run with Cinebench 11.5...
> 
> 
> Now...I have a problem...
> NB wont go a one milimeter from default, or straight away there's BSOD...same goes if I try to do FSB OC...no way...
> ATMO I am using F6f again with APM disabled as well as TCB...and I did install a MS BD patch just to give it a go...
> So, ppl, what do you think...
> I am looking for "workable" OC...24/7 thing without a noise and high temps...and must admit, once you leave 4GHz BD starting changing it's facial grimace into fairly wolfie one...


Get the F6C bios,
Voltage control on the F6F is broken which im sure youv noticed already.


----------



## itsgucci

On the stock AM2+ cooler: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2193017
Am I officially in?


----------



## legionofone22

Hey guys I had a question, Im running the ud7 rev 1.0. My question deals with the AMD APM. Basically when I set it to disabled in bios it works for the first boot, no cores throttle during prime or linx. But once I put the computer into s3 and resume it the AMD APM starts working again and throttles cores. I have to reboot or go into hibernation for it to become disabled again. Thanks for the help!


----------



## carolina new be

Guys

I have the UD5 rev 1 and are getting ready to make a video card purchase.
wanna get a Radeon HD6970 2 gig

new egg has out of stock deactivated for the one i was scheduled to get #N82E16814102918

Now looking at the 2 below

Gigabyte gv-r69700c-2gd #n82e16814125371

sapphire tech 100311-3sr #n82e16814102957

Which would be recommended my limit is 360 dollars

or would a better board be recommended

the 6970 series is my price limit.

thank you for any recommendations !!!

Bobby


----------



## itsgucci

Is this for gaming?
If yes - what resolution will you be playing at?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carolina new be*
> 
> Guys
> I have the UD5 rev 1 and are getting ready to make a video card purchase.
> wanna get a Radeon HD6970 2 gig
> new egg has out of stock deactivated for the one i was scheduled to get #N82E16814102918
> Now looking at the 2 below
> Gigabyte gv-r69700c-2gd #n82e16814125371
> sapphire tech 100311-3sr #n82e16814102957
> Which would be recommended my limit is 360 dollars
> or would a better board be recommended
> the 6970 series is my price limit.
> thank you for any recommendations !!!
> Bobby


Of the two cards you listed, I personally would go with the gigabyte card.

This is purely based on aesthetics, cooler width, and clocks.


----------



## sosomeesot

I tried F6f first, my PC looked at me like I was crazy. Said to myself, "F*** That!" and gave up after a few short tries, and installed F5. Still can't get my system stable. I have to reboot or hard reset half a dozen times to get to my desktop, it works fine once I'm there though. Gonna go home and tinker with it some more today. I miss having a system that booted up perfectly every time.







My PC loved the Vengeance 1600 I had in there at 9-9-9-24, but this XMS3 2000 at 9-10-9-27, not so much...


----------



## frostedflakes

So what's the latest news on Vdroop and load line calibration, haven't really been keeping up closely with this thread. Does Gigabyte have any plans to introduce the ability to tweak LLC on their 990FX boards or are we out of luck? I'd imagine if it was possible or if they had any motivation to add LLC adjustments it would have been included in a BIOS update by now, but who knows. Maybe it's just wishful thinking, but I keep hoping they'll add it eventually.

Currently running an FX-8120 at 4.4GHz. Voltage is set to 1.5625V in BIOS, droops to 1.36V in Windows while running IntelBurnTest.









Really feel like this is holding me back, pretty sure I'd be able to hit 4.5-4.6 if I didn't have to deal with the Vdroop. Kind of wishing I would have gone with an ASUS board.


----------



## carolina new be

will probably use a setting of 1920x1080 will be using windows 7 64 bit

il2 sturmovik cliffs of Dover is the game I am wanting to use with the new video card

Thanks !

Bobby


----------



## legionofone22

I gave up on waiting for Gigabyte to do anything with LLC for the 1.0 board. I instead performed the Vdroop mod with the 100k ohm resistor. Worked wonderfully, used to be in the same situation as you frostedflakes.

Frostedflakes do you have the AMD APM Master Mode set to disabled? If so can you see if it still works when you put your comp to sleep. Thanks!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sosomeesot*
> 
> I tried F6f first, my PC looked at me like I was crazy. Said to myself, "F*** That!" and gave up after a few short tries, and installed F5. Still can't get my system stable. I have to reboot or hard reset half a dozen times to get to my desktop, it works fine once I'm there though. Gonna go home and tinker with it some more today. I miss having a system that booted up perfectly every time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My PC loved the Vengeance 1600 I had in there at 9-9-9-24, but this XMS3 2000 at 9-10-9-27, not so much...


i hear ya about the ram...

I've been nothing but impressed with this vengeance ram. Its not much of a OverClocker as much as it loves tight timings. But at 1.65v this stuff continues to impress me.

My issues only stem from my procs major attitude problem at anything over 4080mhz.... It simply refuses to be stable at anything higher, no matter what voltage.

but so far I've had the ram up to 1662 @ 7-8-7-24-38-1t... stable and happy as can be.

Pretty much have the definition of an Average oc'ing system... nothing is "golden" but nothing is "terribad"...


----------



## sosomeesot

I sure could use me some of those golden components! A GPU at 1gh, a CPU at at least 4.5, stable overclocked ram, Oh why won't the PC Gods smile upon us!?!


----------



## frostedflakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legionofone22*
> 
> I gave up on waiting for Gigabyte to do anything with LLC for the 1.0 board. I instead performed the Vdroop mod with the 100k ohm resistor. Worked wonderfully, used to be in the same situation as you frostedflakes.
> 
> Frostedflakes do you have the AMD APM Master Mode set to disabled? If so can you see if it still works when you put your comp to sleep. Thanks!


I actually forgot there was a hardware mod for Vdroop, may just end up doing that as I'm getting pretty fed up with it.

And yeah I have APM disabled in the BIOS and seem to have the same issue, APM stops working after resuming from sleep and the processor will start throttling under load. Never noticed it before because I don't really put my computer to sleep often. This is on a UD5 with the latest F7h beta BIOS.


----------



## legionofone22

If you can find the details for the ud5 it would be worth your wild. For me between idle and load voltages before the mod I was getting a delta of around .14v. Now after performing the hard mod the most I see is .03v but usually more like .02v.

As for the APM glad to see I'm not the only one, I thought it might be something with my setup but I guess not.......wonder if gigabyte will ever do anything about it


----------



## LBear

I dont even use IBT or any stress test to check for stability cause of the vdroop. To be honest ive been using Battlefield 3 as my tester. If u notice, using a stress test program will cause a huge vdroop to occur. My CPU only takes 1.45v to stabilize 4.0.ghz.. If i run IBT or any stress test my voltage will drop as far as 1.39v. Playing battlefield 3 only drops the voltage to exactly 1.45v but have to set the voltage in the bois to 1.475v but in CPUZ it will show at 1.50v. For RAM stability i use super PI and BF3. Load up battlefield 3 and move the mouse so the camera keeps spinning, if i get an BSOD my ram is unstable. If my NB frequency is unstable the whole OS will lock up when trying to load BF3.

Until gigabyte give us an LLC, this is my only option. I still love my UD7 no matter what.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## ML241

I've read a lot of this thread and was wondering a few things. Vdroop seems worse with a Phenom x6 and the FX than the X4, is that correct? Question two is what BIOS is best for the 955? My UD3 gets here tomorrow


----------



## LBear

Not sure about BD but with a phenom x6, if u disable a core or 2 in the bios the vdroop is a lot less.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ML241*
> 
> I've read a lot of this thread and was wondering a few things. Vdroop seems worse with a Phenom x6 and the FX than the X4, is that correct? Question two is what BIOS is best for the 955? My UD3 gets here tomorrow


Vdroop is the same with the 8120 as it was with the 965BE. And for the second question: The F5 or F6c if it is the 1.0 or 1.1 revision. F6f is not good, methinks. FB bios if it is a 1.2 rev 990FXA-UD3.


----------



## ML241

Thanks for the quick reply's
+1


----------



## DanielB

Interesting, I will take another look at that although I have moved the DIMMS once already. Nothing else seems to work within the Bios, but these 1866 DIMMS do run stable at 1333!


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sosomeesot*
> 
> I tried F6f first, my PC looked at me like I was crazy. Said to myself, "F*** That!" and gave up after a few short tries, and installed F5. Still can't get my system stable. I have to reboot or hard reset half a dozen times to get to my desktop, it works fine once I'm there though. Gonna go home and tinker with it some more today. I miss having a system that booted up perfectly every time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My PC loved the Vengeance 1600 I had in there at 9-9-9-24, but this XMS3 2000 at 9-10-9-27, not so much...


F5 wont work with FX chips very well, You need F6C
I posted a link in this thread a while ago to it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legionofone22*
> 
> Hey guys I had a question, Im running the ud7 rev 1.0. My question deals with the AMD APM. Basically when I set it to disabled in bios it works for the first boot, no cores throttle during prime or linx. But once I put the computer into s3 and resume it the AMD APM starts working again and throttles cores. I have to reboot or go into hibernation for it to become disabled again. Thanks for the help!


You can also do the AOD trick to re-disable it.


----------



## sosomeesot

My current timings are:

1T, 9-10-9-26, (6, 37, 6) (@ 1866) and my PC is running like a dream? No failed boots, no ticking sounds, very fast boots from post to desktop, have restarted have a dozen times and I'm booting perfectly.

FSB is @ stock speeds (200). I think I just finally found a combination of settings that work well. If anyone has any input on how I can further improve these settings, that would be much appreciated. Glad my system is stable again.


----------



## Zan30

Hi guys need some help a friend of mine bought a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5 AMD 990FX board and a AMD Bulldozer FX-6100 cpu and put it all together but nothing happens on the screen but there is power going to it i think i may have worked it out do we need to do a bios update to the board to allow the cpu to work .


----------



## sosomeesot

Probably not, unless he bought this board months ago. Anything purchased within the past 2 or 3 months will be at least revision 1.1 and will definitely come with a bios that supports the chip?


----------



## Zan30

i cant think of anything else i rebuilt three times and tried is gpu and ram and power supplie in mine and it all fine . he got the board and cpu a few days ago the way i was think about the bios was i seen it on the webpage he bought the board from that it may need a bios up date here the link

http://www.aria.co.uk/Products/Components/Motherboards/AMD+AM3%2B+%28900+Chipset%29/Gigabyte+990FXA-UD5+AMD+990FX+%28Socket+AM3%2B%29+DDR3+PCI-Express+ATX+Motherboard+?productId=44725

if you look at the Comments section on the page at the bottom


----------



## sosomeesot

On the gigabyte website, it lists when each version of bios was released, and if I remember right, F4 came out in September. Now that was for my board, (the UD3) so find out when F4 came out for the UD5, and if it was also F4 for that board that allowed use of the FX chip, I think that is the version that started to support these chips. Anyway, if all of the components work fine in your rig, perhaps one of his parts is faulty and needs to be RMAed? Maybe he static shocked the board when he first got it because he's a noob? Hope that ain't the case though!


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Latest Pic of the setup through the case window:


I love a nice clean build; Great pic!!!

~fidof650


----------



## sosomeesot

My love child. Only one GPU now, took the 2nd one back. Zalman cooler goes in on Sat. Woohoo!


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> This info should be posted on the front page **hint hint**.


Ask and you shall receive! (added to OP)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sosomeesot*


Another nice build!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carolina new be*
> 
> Which would be recommended my limit is 360 dollars?


I spent months painstakingly researching this very question and picking through review after review until I decided to buy this card... and it's even better than I had hoped!!!
What's better is the O.C.ed version is $50 cheaper than the stock version (which ultimately pushed me to buy it as $350 was my upper limit for a GPU). It has gone out of stock several times and keeps coming back and each time gets great reviews.

Hands down: HIS IceQ Turbo HD Radeon 6970 @ 900Mhz

Can anyone explain the discounted superior card? Click Here for a side by side comparison.
(I have theories relative to marketing strategy but I'd love to hear what other people think)

~fidof650


----------



## bcudasteve

new cpuz validation

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2195631

after install of Corsair H80 cooler


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> new cpuz validation
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2195631
> after install of Corsair H80 cooler


nice,

Knock the ht multi down to 10 and notch up the vcore up .025 and you might be able to get into cool 4+ghz territory.

Be sure to get that NB up as well. 2.6 - 2.8ghz for good performance. ~1.35v for the NB

Whats your temps so far?


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> nice,
> Knock the ht multi down to 10 and notch up the vcore up .025 and you might be able to get into cool 4+ghz territory.
> Be sure to get that NB up as well. 2.6 - 2.8ghz for good performance. ~1.35v for the NB
> Whats your temps so far?


MadGoat,
Thanks for the tips.
temps on cpu ~ 50* C under prime95
Steve


----------



## MadGoat

your in great shape!

ya like the h80 so far? How tough was the install?


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Capta1nKirk

Which BIOS would you all recommend for the 1100T using the UD3 ?

F6f has been fine for me with the [email protected], but as I understand the x6 may require other considerations.


----------



## DanielB

You may have done this, but I have helped three other people with the same symptoms and every time it was because they did not plug in the 12 Volt(8 Plug) connector(s) - Sometimes 2 X 4. Make sure that this is plugged in along with the rest of the cables and fan headers (especially the CPU fan header) and try again.

Daniel


----------



## Zan30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanielB*
> 
> You may have done this, but I have helped three other people with the same symptoms and every time it was because they did not plug in the 12 Volt(8 Plug) connector(s) - Sometimes 2 X 4. Make sure that this is plugged in along with the rest of the cables and fan headers (especially the CPU fan header) and try again.
> Daniel


if this was meant for me bud thx i got it sorted the motherboard did need the bios update for the bulldozer cpu


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Which BIOS would you all recommend for the 1100T using the UD3 ?
> 
> F6f has been fine for me with the [email protected], but as I understand the x6 may require other considerations.


its a toss up between F5 and F6F for me. Stay away from F6C, E.

F5 seems to be the best overclocking bios. F6F has more features related to bulldozer (apm, and disable cores) . F6F however seems to be a little less stable than F5, however on the upside with Bulldozer at least the Cpu Throttling has been fixed. I had some issues with F5 and cool and quiet working properly, disabled it wasn't a problem. The issue was (stuttering in games, and music playback)

Overall i suggest F6F.


----------



## toddincabo

Hello All. Finally took a couple of snaps of my UD3. I added the small fan on the NB heatsink when I removed it to re-seat it using icDiamond TIM and getting rid of the "spring holders". I was reading about the heat of the NB on this thread and while checking my heatsink by finger, the darn thing pushed downn raising the other end. Not secure at all in my book.

So...Off With It's Head...and back on with a spinning hat. Very easy to do. The fan is a little pcu Intel one that I had in my box of goodies. I snipped the shroud down to the minimum needed and just lined it up center and drilled a hole in the proper place for the left screw. The screw is screwed directly into the heatsink after drilling that hole also through the top 2 "horizontal fins. This was actually enough to hold the fan securely, but I added the silver small right bolt and globbed in some GOOP to make a "bridge" to the far right fin to hold that side secure also because the plastic on the fan is very brittle from age or whatever, so just precautionary. Different fans, different methods for sure.

The VRM zone fan was easy also. Put a proper length bolt and nuts in the bottom left screw hole and GOOP"ed it to the USB 3.0 casing and followed with GOOP on the top left to the USB 2.0 casing and a "dob" on the heatsink.

Had to use 3.5 jacks for connections seiing it was all I had and wanted to get it over with.

I'm not sure what to check the temps with. Have AIDA64 and have heard that "Motherboard" is the NB, but not sure about that.

Hardware Monitor TMPIN0 37c

1 41c

2 34c

I am getting her ready for Piledriver, whatever the outcome is with it. Currently impressed with this fill-in "Phenom" 840 x 4 for $60. I will be getting one of the Corsair water cooling solutions with PD.

Anyway, I love my UD3


----------



## MadGoat

whoa,

Its a mad max computer! I half expected to see some black leather in there somewhere!









That will certainly do the trick!

I however have not noticed any instability as a result of heat with the NB. Its obvious that it doesn't have the most efficient cooling... But its fairly happy at the higher temperatures.

I currently have a 15mhz OC on he PCIe bus and 400mhz OC on the HT Link and haven't seen temps rise. But your cooling will certainly provide longevity.

Ever think about getting some copper pipe making the PC into a steam-punk piece?

Nice work though, I like the ingenuity.


----------



## bcudasteve

MadGoat,

That H80 is a fine cooling solution. Keeps temps within bounds even when running prime95, cpuz & chwm.

Steve


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> its a toss up between F5 and F6F for me. Stay away from F6C, E.
> 
> F5 seems to be the best overclocking bios. F6F has more features related to bulldozer (apm, and disable cores) . F6F however seems to be a little less stable than F5, however on the upside with Bulldozer at least the Cpu Throttling has been fixed. I had some issues with F5 and cool and quiet working properly, disabled it wasn't a problem. The issue was (stuttering in games, and music playback)
> 
> Overall i suggest F6F.


How the heck did you get F6f to work? I only get BSODs with it. Clock interrupt errors.. F6c works splendidly though.


----------



## toddincabo

Thanks Madgoat,

Mad Max .... I love it! You just named this rig for me.....thank you! And yeah, I have tons of leather, good idea. The case is actually a mATX that I added six inches of wood to the bottom so this board would fit. It's also shrouded in wood with a foam backing for sound, (carpeted on front). I know, too much time on my hands.

You are absolutely right about the longevity. That's what I'm going for. I don't need a pc that can run a small country, just a nice reliable htpc , encoder and Mass Effect player.

I refuse to give Intel a peso of my money if possible. I also like Gigabyte mboards as have had good experiences with my past two.

Steampunk.....I like it. (had to Google it, but I like it).

hmmmm........leather


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toddincabo*
> 
> I don't need a pc that can run a small country, just a nice reliable htpc , encoder and Mass Effect player.


LOL! Love it...

You should keep a build log from all the stuff you've done and are doing! That's what this community loves.


----------



## toddincabo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> LOL! Love it...
> You should keep a build log from all the stuff you've done and are doing! That's what this community loves.


Sounds good. I will. Thanks again. Have been checking out Steampunk photos and sites, such as... http://www.datamancer.net/

WOW !


----------



## Heidi

OK guys, I am having a serious problem...
4 DIMM's of 1866 RAM (16GB), doesn't run at 1866...
Any clues?
Did I just touch the devil...or it's temporary issue to resolved with new BIOS?
Anyone else having that issue?


----------



## Wild Wally

BD will not support more than 2 sticks @ 1866 unless you "juice" it. Phenom IIs will support 4 sticks up to 1600 although the spec says AM3 cpus only support up to 1333. You will have to either run some tighter settings at the lower speed or you can OC it and get the speed you want.

WW


----------



## kzone75

So..I've been praising the UD3 for quite a while now. But now I have run into a BIG problem.









Was surfing the interwebz and minding my own business. Suddenly the computer shut down.No BSODs or anything. Tried to start it up again, but ended up with a constant loop. Didn't even post. Just looping every 2 seconds. Have had it running with the 8120 at 4.6GHz, 1.42V all day today. Temps has been really good. Was a bit warmer in my apartment today, so I decided to turn down the voltage and clocks.Then out of the blue this happens. Could this be the CPU or the mobo?

Have tried clearing the BIOS, kept the battery out for quite some time. Only connected the essentials (ssd, 1 stick of RAM, GPU..) Have also had it outside of the case on the motherboard box. Tried 2 PSUs. Still the same thing..

Any ideas?


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> So..I've been praising the UD3 for quite a while now. But now I have run into a BIG problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Was surfing the interwebz and minding my own business. Suddenly the computer shut down.No BSODs or anything. Tried to start it up again, but ended up with a constant loop. Didn't even post. Just looping every 2 seconds. Have had it running with the 8120 at 4.6GHz, 1.42V all day today. Temps has been really good. Was a bit warmer in my apartment today, so I decided to turn down the voltage and clocks.Then out of the blue this happens. Could this be the CPU or the mobo?
> Have tried clearing the BIOS, kept the battery out for quite some time. Only connected the essentials (ssd, 1 stick of RAM, GPU..) Have also had it outside of the case on the motherboard box. Tried 2 PSUs. Still the same thing..
> Any ideas?


Kzone,

whoops! I missed that you tried another power supply, do you have a different cpu?

Last year, I had something like this happen on my (Antec 750w) to me once, found a slightly loose pin in the P1 main connector of the power supply (connects to 20+4 mainboard power socket).
I used a piece of a round toothpick to hold it in place down through the top of the connector, works fine to this day. Oh, you might check the molex connecting to the ATX power in.

I sure hope that's the problem, as it's an easy fix. Anyway, it sounds to me like it's a power delivery problem.

Good luck.


----------



## ebduncan

remove a stick of ram, and try with only one.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Kzone,
> 
> whoops! I missed that you tried another power supply, do you have a different cpu?
> 
> Last year, I had something like this happen on my (Antec 750w) to me once, found a slightly loose pin in the P1 main connector of the power supply (connects to 20+4 mainboard power socket).
> I used a piece of a round toothpick to hold it in place down through the top of the connector, works fine to this day. Oh, you might check the molex connecting to the ATX power in.
> 
> I sure hope that's the problem, as it's an easy fix. Anyway, it sounds to me like it's a power delivery problem.
> 
> Good luck.


Have to get another CPU tomorrow. This is the strangest thing. I've checked the connectors several times when I plugged in the PSUs. Better go to town where I bought it from tomorrow and have them check everything. I don't have any gadgets to find out where the problem is. I am not looking forward to carrying this case anywhere. Heavy stuff.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Have to get another CPU tomorrow. This is the strangest thing. I've checked the connectors several times when I plugged in the PSUs. Better go to town where I bought it from tomorrow and have them check everything. I don't have any gadgets to find out where the problem is. I am not looking forward to carrying this case anywhere. Heavy stuff.


Kzone,

Lots of luck, pal.
Sure hope it's something not too expensive. Looking forward to you having a good solution.

Steve


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Kzone,
> 
> Lots of luck, pal.
> Sure hope it's something not too expensive. Looking forward to you having a good solution.
> 
> Steve


Thanks, Steve
The motherboard should still be eligible for an RMA, if it is that. Don't know about the CPU though. I'll probably get one of those 960T unless they have something to test with there.
I'll look at this as a minor bump in the road. Another bump would be that I have to use an HP Mini 110 while surfing the interwebz.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> nice,
> Knock the ht multi down to 10 and notch up the vcore up .025 and you might be able to get into cool 4+ghz territory.
> Be sure to get that NB up as well. 2.6 - 2.8ghz for good performance. ~1.35v for the NB
> Whats your temps so far?


MadGoat,

new cpuz validation

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2200639

just over 4 GHz.
CPU Temps ~ 50* C with Corsair H80 @ max speed during run of prime95 for an hour, didn't crash!
turned down NB to 2000. Kept getting BSOD's.
More tweaking needed.

Steve


----------



## Saancho

may i join the club?


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Saancho*
> 
> may i join the club?


goto 1st page & submit your info


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> MadGoat,
> new cpuz validation
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2200639
> just over 4 GHz.
> CPU Temps ~ 50* C with Corsair H80 @ max speed during run of prime95 for an hour, didn't crash!
> turned down NB to 2000. Kept getting BSOD's.
> More tweaking needed.
> Steve


Is that cpu validation underload? (I hope not)

I know the ud5 has vdroop underload... whats your voltage under load?

You'll want to pump your NB to around 2.6 - 2.8 to see the largest performance benefit. You will however need to increase the cpu/nb voltage to do so (1.35 - 1.4)


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Is that cpu validation underload? (I hope not)
> I know the ud5 has vdroop underload... whats your voltage under load?
> You'll want to pump your NB to around 2.6 - 2.8 to see the largest performance benefit. You will however need to increase the cpu/nb voltage to do so (1.35 - 1.4)


MadGoat,

No, the cpu validation wasn't run during the prime95 load test. Droops to ~ 1.49v during load. Kept getting BSOD's when I pumped up the NB (set the NB voltage to 1.35v as you suggested) and the cpu multi to 19-20x at the same time and running prime95. Dropped the cpu voltage to ~ 1.45v in BIOS after the test and usually run 18.5x cpu multi. Then I can run the NB up and at that setting I get ~ 3.7 GHZ cpu & 2800 NB, stable & seems 'snappier' running like that than with just the cpu at 20x for 4.x GHz

More tweaking needed I guess.

Steve.


----------



## adolf512

i might get a ud3 board, anthem mrx 300, 500, 700 receivers only has serial connection and i noticed that ga-990fxa boards internal serial connection, will that connection do the job?

this is pretty important since the keyspan adapter cost $50 and i would like to spare that. the reason it's very important being able to connect the receiver to the pc is becuase of anthem room correction arc that uses the processing power from the pc and is one of the major points of the receiver.

edit: seams that i have to buy a $5 adapter for that..


----------



## waltcujo

QUESTION TO ANY UD3 OWNERS, I am in the middle of my first build and have heard that this board requires the use of insulating washers between the mounting screws and board is this true?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waltcujo*
> 
> QUESTION TO ANY UD3 OWNERS, I am in the middle of my first build and have heard that this board requires the use of insulating washers between the mounting screws and board is this true?


Incorrect,

That is not true. No need to worry... Install as usual, and GL


----------



## itsgucci

Had some problems with my 990FXA-D3 today..
Tried doing 304FSB for a 5,2ghz OC by underclocking NB & HT to 1,6ghz, since overclocking them didn't seem to help and I know these boards do 300FSB..
Anyways long story short - no signal to the monitor, forced backup BIOS, said "MAIN BIOS CHECKSUM ERROR" , backup bios reflashed the main one, but after the procedure completed the monitor lost signal again.
Tried removing 2 sticks of ram leaving only one, forcing backup bios again, but this time without a CMOS battery without any luck whatsoever..
Anyways my PC is up and running again. Saw a guide that says you should short pins 1 and 6 of the main BIOS and power up the PC, removing the bridge between those two pins as soon as you hear a beep... I was raging hard so I shorted random pins, but it seems like it did the trick.








Lesson learned - never rely on backup BIOS kicking in by itself.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

@ itsgucci

Trying a 5.2GHZ OC with a 500W PSU... its seems a little too much dont you think?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsgucci*
> 
> Had some problems with my 990FXA-D3 today..
> Tried doing 304FSB for a 5,2ghz OC by underclocking NB & HT to 1,6ghz, since overclocking them didn't seem to help and I know these boards do 300FSB..
> Anyways long story short - no signal to the monitor, forced backup BIOS, said "MAIN BIOS CHECKSUM ERROR" , backup bios reflashed the main one, but after the procedure completed the monitor lost signal again.
> Tried removing 2 sticks of ram leaving only one, forcing backup bios again, but this time without a CMOS battery without any luck whatsoever..
> Anyways my PC is up and running again. Saw a guide that says you should short pins 1 and 6 of the main BIOS and power up the PC, removing the bridge between those two pins as soon as you hear a beep... I was raging hard so I shorted random pins, but it seems like it did the trick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lesson learned - never rely on backup BIOS kicking in by itself.












Speechless...


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> @ itsgucci
> Trying a 5.2GHZ OC with a 500W PSU... its seems a little too much dont you think?


Actually using my CX430 at the moment. I also have a TX650, but I'm not using it, since I'm currently running a 2600 Pro, which is far from a power hog.
Build in my sig is old.
Updated build:
Same motherboard
PSU:Corsair CX430/TX650
RAM: 2x4GB Corsair Vengeance & 1x2GB Corsair XMS3
Graphics card: 2600Pro without any thermal compound - gets up to 93c when benching(driver crashes once it reaches 92-93), but it gets me the so needed boints @ HWBot
CPU: Phenom II X4 850 - all Multirama had were 2 phenoms, waiting for a faildozer restock and will be upgrading
So yeah, a 430w PSU is more than enough for a 93w TDP CPU.
Currently torturing the crap out of this hardware, since its all (eventually) ending in the trash can.
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2193017 - 4,1ghz on a stock AM2+ cooler at 1,47v, when it would be stable at 1,43 or so. Why not?


----------



## zvonexp

Hi !

I have AMD FX 8120 and 990XA -UD3 i solding that in few days, and i want ask is good 990FXA-UD5 ? Does she have vDrop or overvolt, buggy stufs and other ? On Gigabyte web site i see just rev 1.x is there any new revision ?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zvonexp*
> 
> Hi !
> I have AMD FX 8120 and 990XA -UD3 i solding that in few days, and i want ask is good 990FXA-UD5 ? Does she have vDrop or overvolt, buggy stufs and other ? On Gigabyte web site i see just rev 1.x is there any new revision ?


from my reading the UD3 is the best bet. UD5 has more Vdroop, and possiblility for Vboost. and on here there seems to be more chatter about instability.


----------



## zvonexp

Thq, mate,anybody else ?


----------



## MadGoat

UD3 uses a classic VRM Power configuration, whereas the UD5 and UD7 use the new DrMOS config...

This by nature causes the UD5 and UD7 to suffer from VDroop and have to compensate with LLC (Load Line calibration) if supported by the board revision.

The UD3 on the other hand acts as boards we are used to, and Vboost voltage under load. Bios revisions impact by how much the voltage changes... but its much easier to close in a target voltage in doing so.

Personally, unless you absolutely need one of the features of the UD5 or UD7, I would stick with the UD3. Its a solid proven board with tech that isn't still being pioneered.

Having researched this before purchasing my UD3, I'm ten fold happier with my decision now that I've seen the difficulties people have (and are having) with the bigger brother boards.

All this aside, the UD3 provides the PERFECT PCIe port placement that I need / wanted. The UD3 is quite literally THE only 990fx board that provides its specific port layout.


----------



## bcudasteve

my UD5 board has a bunch of vdroop on vcore

Steve


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> I am running the UD5, have loads of vdroop
> vcore in bios is 1.535
> here is cpuz validation while running cinebench 11.5 64-bit
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2202019
> notice the vdroop!
> finally have it stable at ~ 4 GHz, 2800 NB - had to pump up the NB voltage to 1.4v
> Steve












Right ON!

This is what I've landed on:



That is full under load, with CnQ and C1E enabled @ 48c max temp with 8k Prime95 work units (cause the most heat i've seen).

24hr prime blend stable and boy does it scream. I love it.


----------



## bcudasteve

MadGoat,

Sorry, it's not quite stable yet!
during the test (cinebench) I ran showed 20x cpu clock with a little over 4 GHz in cpuz, then validation showed 13.5x at ~ 2.72 GHz, whats up with that?
also the vcore I had set at 1.535 in bios, to support 20x cpu clock ratio, NB volts at 1.4 to support NB @ 2800. Then the last 2 times I tried prime95, BSOD's again.

more tweaking, or is it the motherboard & cpu combo that's not working? I think i need a better processor.

Steve


----------



## MadGoat

your multiplier changing is normal for CnQ. (Cool and Quiet)

It will ramp up or down the clock speed dependent on processor use to save heat and power... C1E, when enabled, will further allow the cpu to adjust the voltages at those lowered clocks to further save power and heat. Both can be disabled in the bios... as many do to in the endless pursuit of the highest stable OC.

I however prefer to find the highest / best OC with both enabled. (saving power is a big bonus)


----------



## bcudasteve

OK, new successful cpuz validation. 4.xx GHz @ 2600 NB
Reduced the cpu NB freq to 2600 @ 1.4v, increased the cpu vcore to 1.55v, vdroop goes down to 1.488!

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2202105

When just running prime95 & cpuz. If I run more programs, get BSODs!

Don't have cool & quiet enabled in bios.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right ON!
> This is what I've landed on:
> 
> That is full under load, with CnQ and C1E enabled @ 48c max temp with 8k Prime95 work units (cause the most heat i've seen).
> 24hr prime blend stable and boy does it scream. I love it.


MadGoat,

Those results are marvelous! I can see why you enjoy the UD3 so much.

Steve


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> OK, new successful cpuz validation. 4.xx GHz @ 2600 NB
> Reduced the cpu NB freq to 2600 @ 1.4v, increased the cpu vcore to 1.55v, vdroop goes down to 1.488!
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2202105
> When just running prime95 & cpuz. If I run more programs, get BSODs!
> Don't have cool & quiet enabled in bios.


Looks about right...

As for the BSOD's ... Its seems it could be a ram instability. I noticed you have 4 dimms in there. That puts the IMC under quite a load.

Might want to play around with your ram timings a bit, in particular be sure your running 2t with 4 dimms. Maybe increase your channel latencies a tiny bit to see if it will chill the BSOD's out.

Just some ideas... OC looks good though!










OooO, almost forgot...

Try bumping up your ram voltage a bit. Even if its rated at 1.5... most often its on the verge.

My vengeance is rated 1.5 v but even to run its rated latencies I had to push 1.6v to it.

As it stands I have the bios set to 1.7v which gives me 1.66v real voltage to the dimms...


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Looks about right...
> As for the BSOD's ... Its seems it could be a ram instability. I noticed you have 4 dimms in there. That puts the IMC under quite a load.
> Might want to play around with your ram timings a bit, in particular be sure your running 2t with 4 dimms. Maybe increase your channel latencies a tiny bit to see if it will chill the BSOD's out.
> Just some ideas... OC looks good though!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OooO, almost forgot...
> Try bumping up your ram voltage a bit. Even if its rated at 1.5... most often its on the verge.
> My vengeance is rated 1.5 v but even to run its rated latencies I had to push 1.6v to it.
> As it stands I have the bios set to 1.7v which gives me 1.66v real voltage to the dimms...


Great idea, increase the ram voltage. I'm running corsair vengeance (4x4 @1600) also. Thanks for the tip.
Steve


----------



## itsgucci

C1E & Cool & quiet should be disabled.

I guess I was a few pages off for that.


----------



## adolf512

i might get the ud3, i asked a Swedish store and they siad they still have rev 1.0, should i be fine with 1.0 or wait for them getting in rev 1.1? i have been looking at ud5 and ud7 but there seams to be problems with the voltages, is that fixed with 1.1?

ud3 is really good looking, better looking than ud5, ud7 is to expensive for my taste, and i can't motivate paying almost twice the price for that instead of ud3. i have been looking at asus board but i miss the a internal serial connection(worth about $45 for me) and there seams to be problems with sapertooth and crosshair V formula even tough these boards have a lot of features.


----------



## itsgucci

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adolf512*
> 
> i might get the ud3, i asked a Swedish store and they siad they still have rev 1.0, should i be fine with 1.0 or wait for them getting in rev 1.1? i have been looking at ud5 and ud7 but there seams to be problems with the voltages, is that fixed with 1.1?
> ud3 is really good looking, better looking than ud5, ud7 is to expensive for my taste, and i can't motivate paying almost twice the price for that instead of ud3. i have been looking at asus board but i miss the a internal serial connection(worth about $45 for me) and there seams to be problems with sapertooth and crosshair V formula even tough these boards have a lot of features.


UD3 doesn't have all that LCC sht, so vdroop shouldn't be that much of an issue.


----------



## MadGoat

I don't know about the 1.1 rev, but i do know that the only difference with th1.2 rev is the secondary sata controller.

The 1.2 they are using a jmicron sata II controller as secondary. (Still has sata III via the amd southbridge) instead of the marvell sata III secondary that the 1.0 1.1uses. Not a big deal at all since you'll want to use the sata III from the amd south bridge anyway.

So, no difference that changes the capability of the board at all...

Now I'm a big fan of the UD3 and I would suggest it to anyone,

However, could you use a serial USB adapter for your needs? Like this?

If so, this would allow you to make a motherboard decision that would be less tied to the serial port availability...


----------



## nycokla

Ok I am getting this board (UD3) friday and I am installing Corsair Memory Vengeance 16 Dual Channel Kit DDR3 1600 MHz 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM into it....I have heard talks about having to adjust the bios so that the memory will actually run at 1600....I have been pouring through this site looking for answers but I cant seem to find anything...


----------



## nycokla

anyone?


----------



## sosomeesot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycokla*
> 
> anyone?


That's easy. Yes, it'll probably default to something lower, like 1000 or 1333. All you have to do, is go into bios, and change 2 things. First, change the multiplier on your ram to 8.0. Second, go to where your ram timing settings are and where it says 7 7 7 13, or 12 12 12 48. or something like that, change those numbers to 8 8 8 24. Save, reboot, and see if it works.


----------



## nycokla

ok can you explain the timings to me?


----------



## nycokla

fixed


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nycokla*
> 
> also, how the hell do I get that rig signature that everyone has?


You've got one already? lol.

If you go to your profile you can edit your signature further from there.


----------



## nycokla

yea figured it out right after, thnx


----------



## adolf512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I don't know about the 1.1 rev, but i do know that the only difference with th1.2 rev is the secondary sata controller.
> The 1.2 they are using a jmicron sata II controller as secondary. (Still has sata III via the amd southbridge) instead of the marvell sata III secondary that the 1.0 1.1uses. Not a big deal at all since you'll want to use the sata III from the amd south bridge anyway.
> So, no difference that changes the capability of the board at all...
> Now I'm a big fan of the UD3 and I would suggest it to anyone,
> However, could you use a serial USB adapter for your needs? Like this?
> If so, this would allow you to make a motherboard decision that would be less tied to the serial port availability...


i read that they added llc on the ud3 but from what i have read it's not really nessisary on the ud3 model. i might get a anthem mrx receiver and the keyspan is reckomended if you don't have serial port, however i can't find that adapter in sweden. asrock boards also has internal serial ports so it's only asus that lacks it(it's not the only reason why i won't go with asus).

i am 90% sure i will get ud3, i like that they keeped the old fashion bios but still has 3TB supprts etc, it's the best looking(not only my taste), and it works without a lot of problems like only some ram supported or 0.2V vdroop. i can accept vdroop under 0.05V since i will be using phenommsrtweaking for controlling the multiples(it saves a lot of power and make my pc quiet). i can go up to 4ghz 1.525V(prime stable) with my current ga-790xta-ud5 motherboard and hopfully i will be able to do better with 990fxa-ud3


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adolf512*
> 
> i read that they added llc on the ud3 but from what i have read it's not really nessisary on the ud3 model. i might get a anthem mrx receiver and the keyspan is reckomended if you don't have serial port, however i can't find that adapter in sweden. asrock boards also has internal serial ports so it's only asus that lacks it(it's not the only reason why i won't go with asus).
> i am 90% sure i will get ud3, i like that they keeped the old fashion bios but still has 3TB supprts etc, it's the best looking(not only my taste), and it works without a lot of problems like only some ram supported or 0.2V vdroop. i can accept vdroop under 0.05V since i will be using phenommsrtweaking for controlling the multiples(it saves a lot of power and make my pc quiet). i can go up to 4ghz 1.525V(prime stable) with my current ga-790xta-ud5 motherboard and hopfully i will be able to do better with 990fxa-ud3


790fxta-ud5 is a great I doubt it will clock any higher, but maybe you will get better ram clocks.

Anyway 1.52v seems too much for only 4.0 Ghz, my 1090T was stable at 4,05Ghz w/ only 1,42 in my 790FXT-UDP


----------



## adolf512

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> 790fxta-ud5 is a great I doubt it will clock any higher, but maybe you will get better ram clocks.
> Anyway 1.52v seems too much for only 4.0 Ghz, my 1090T was stable at 4,05Ghz w/ only 1,42 in my 790FXT-UDP


i know 1.525 is high but i tested lower and i can't get it 100% stable with lower voltages(cooling is not an problem with antec kuhler h2o 920). my board was 790xta-ud4 and not ud5(but it shouldn't matter much), i am hoping for lower voltage at 4ghz with 990fxa-ud3 and maby slightly better oc. my current board has broken cpu-fan output so i might get the new for for free(am am pretty sure i will).


----------



## Demonkev666

so heads up to ALL UD7 rev 1.0 owners

the only way to change *VID is with AOD* (Amd Over Drive)

it's easy to tell since core temp seems to be reading VID only.

cpu-z seems to reading what easytune6 has listed as Vcore A

using easytune6 I can change the Vcore A but not the VID.

I also have 1.300[ +0.250] 1.400 : in bios, but that still comes up 1.3 in core temp when windows loads.

so it's my little way around it.


----------



## JakR4bbit

Hello! New member and new owner of a 990FXA-UD3 here! I'll get validation done tonight and send in my forms. Looking forward to posting here!


----------



## Capta1nKirk

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2206549


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capta1nKirk*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2206549


not to shabby. You need more NB freq though. See if you can get it to 2800. If you can manage 3000 you would be rocking. Will also help out some with your oc stability at higher clocks.


----------



## Tekken666

Hello, i'm New. I'm swiss so sorry for my bad english.

My Configuration:
MB: GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 1 Firmware F6
Memory: Corsair Vengeance Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 2x4g 1600(8-9-8-24-41-t2)1.5V
CPU: 8150
GPU: XFX 6950
HD: SSD Corsair GT

So, i got most problem at start on stability (most BS irql not less or equal) so i have change the memory setting to 1600(8-9-8-24-41-t2)1.5V from the 8-8-8-24-41-t2 and seem to be work.
1st question: Is ok Firmware F6 or i need upgrade to beta version ???
2nd question: How i can set system good for long time stability ???


----------



## Capta1nKirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> not to shabby. You need more NB freq though. See if you can get it to 2800. If you can manage 3000 you would be rocking. Will also help out some with your oc stability at higher clocks.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Capta1nKirk*


Very nice! Your temps are still nice too. Can you push the CPU clock to 4.0? If you can, then you have a perfect Phenom II OC going on man. Great job!


----------



## AsianOnRoute69

Proud new owner of a GA-990FXA-UD3! I Purchased it as a replacement for my GA-MA785GT-UD3H. Can't wait to overclock the crap out of it!


----------



## MadGoat

Gratz and welcome!

I'm sure you'll fall in love with it...

speaking of, here is my new 24/7 stable OC:



This setup just keeps impressing me!










With a 128gb Corsair Perf. Pro on the way...


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Gratz and welcome!
> I'm sure you'll fall in love with it...
> speaking of, here is my new 24/7 stable OC:
> snip
> This setup just keeps impressing me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With a 128gb Corsair Perf. Pro on the way...


How the heck did you get 4.055 on LESS than 1.4 volts?? and how the sam heell did you get your NB over 3100?? What volts?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Well guys, It was a great run with the UD3 but it is now living in a back up rig. Tonight I replaced my AMD CPU and mobo with an intel i5 2500k and ASUS mobo(see sig rig). My wife will be using my "old" mobo and CPU at the same clocks and stuff. Still think its a great AMD board though.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> How the heck did you get 4.055 on LESS than 1.4 volts?? and how the sam heell did you get your NB over 3100?? What volts?


Just played with it until I found its absolute maximum frequency at or over 4ghz at the lowest voltage. Only because I don't really see much of a gain, performance wise, with anything over 4ghz.

I do, however, see a LARGE performance gain with increasing NB clocks and ram speed / latencies. The NB is @ 1.4v, not too shabby. The memory is what is the most impressive to me.



Both scores here are the same clocks, with the 7.22 score showing what the memory timings alone do for performance.

7.16 score @ 8-8-8-24-38-1t
7.22 score @ 7-8-7-20-30-1t
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Well guys, It was a great run with the UD3 but it is now living in a back up rig. Tonight I replaced my AMD CPU and mobo with an intel i5 2500k and ASUS mobo(see sig rig). My wife will be using my "old" mobo and CPU at the same clocks and stuff. Still think its a great AMD board though.


Sorry to see you go, but intel is hard to resist with the performance it can provide.

Get OC'in!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Sorry to see you go, but intel is hard to resist with the performance it can provide.
> Get OC'in!


Not gone by a long shot. The UD3 and 955 are still running a few feet away, with a EVGA SSC 460 GTX(1 gig), 8 gigs of 1333 G.skill ram(CAS8), Antec Eco Neo 620w PSU, 1tb WD Black hdd, CM Hyper 212+ and an Antec 902 Case....shesh lol. ohh yea, window's 7 64 bit.

Its still going to be used every day and gamed on alot by my wife

The i5 will be up to 4.5Ghz in no time


----------



## spidey81

I've been running a GA-990FXA-UD3 since last summer, first with a PII X3 720 and now with an FX 8120. Recently I purchased a second HD5770 to run in crossfire and have had nothing but headaches trying to get it functioning properly. With the second card installed I continually fail to post, in fact there won't be any display output at all. After removing it, I still have issues posting and have to not only reset the bios but remove the cmos battery repeatedly to get it to let me into bios. I'm running a new OCZ ZX 850W psu so power is no issue. I also tried with my spare PSU (a corsair VX550W) and the same thing happened. Anyone have any troubleshooting advice? Also, I'm currently running bios version F5. I've thought about trying the latest beta they currently have for download, but just haven't go to it yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Wild Wally

Try reseating your existing card first to see if that might be the issue. I had similar problems with my UD7 after installing some new stuff. After reseating all of the cards and DIMMs and reworking the power distribution all my posting issues went away.

WW


----------



## spidey81

Think I'll try that again. Besides, I want to make sure that both cards are working individually just to make sure one of them aren't the culprit. Also, I've considered raising the PCI-X voltage in bios. But before I go that route I'll attempt the simple reseating to see if that fixes the problems. And, by the way, thanks for the input.


----------



## Tekken666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> Hello, i'm New. I'm swiss so sorry for my bad english.
> My Configuration:
> MB: GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 1 Firmware F6
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance Model CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 2x4g 1600(8-9-8-24-41-t2)1.5V
> CPU: 8150
> GPU: XFX 6950
> HD: SSD Corsair GT
> So, i got most problem at start on stability (most BS irql not less or equal) so i have change the memory setting to 1600(8-9-8-24-41-t2)1.5V from the 8-8-8-24-41-t2 and seem to be work.
> 1st question: Is ok Firmware F6 or i need upgrade to beta version ???
> 2nd question: How i can set system good for long time stability ???


Can anyone help me pls ???


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> Can anyone help me pls ???


Tekken666,

I have a UD5 rev 1.0 since last August, had some problems with all prior BIOS's including F6, been using F7h since it became available 12-9-2011, stable for me. Running 16GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR3 (4x4GB sticks) 1600 MHz. 9-9-9-24 with non-overclock, 1333 MHz with 9-9-9-24 oc'd.

Steve


----------



## fullrespect

Guys, straight up: what's the best BIOS version for 990FXA-UD3 v1.0? I'm using 1090T + F3 bios and I can't get it to work @ 4.0GHz with 1.42V. It requires 1.44V to be fully stable. Well, that's not the problem. The problem is that on a AM2+ Asus board the same CPU is stable at 4.0GHz with just 1.39V under Windows XP 64bit. Ok, you will tell that here's the difference: XP 64bit vs. 7 64bit. Agreed, but from 1.39V to 1.44V it's just too much of a difference. I don't know how to say it, but this UD3 board doesn't fulfill my expectations. Not at all.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> Can anyone help me pls ???


Bump your memory voltage up to 1.6v. Most ddr3 memory with advertized low latencies wont perform on Amd boards at the rated 1.5v. I personally had to bump my memory to 1.6v to get it to run at its rated 8-8-8-24.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullrespect*
> 
> Guys, straight up: what's the best BIOS version for 990FXA-UD3 v1.0? I'm using 1090T + F3 bios and I can't get it to work @ 4.0GHz with 1.42V. It requires 1.44V to be fully stable. Well, that's not the problem. The problem is that on a AM2+ Asus board the same CPU is stable at 4.0GHz with just 1.39V under Windows XP 64bit. Ok, you will tell that here's the difference: XP 64bit vs. 7 64bit. Agreed, but from 1.39V to 1.44V it's just too much of a difference. I don't know how to say it, but this UD3 board doesn't fulfill my expectations. Not at all.


I can only speak to my experience, but before I upgraded to the f5 BIOS I had a hell of a time getting a good OC. Might want to give f5 a try. It helped me get my 1100t where I like it.

Also keep in mind every board is different. 1.39 on one board could be the equivalent of 1.44 on another. Vdroop, vboost and all things considered. I get 4ghz with 1.4-1.44v. But I also use CnQ, so by nature I have to use a little more voltage to get stable. But I save a lot of heat and juice in the long run.


----------



## Tekken666

Ok tnx i try tonight


----------



## fullrespect

Thanks for the reply, MadGoat.

If I remember right, there was an F5B bios? I've tested F5B or C, I don't remember but I know for sure that my build failed to start so I switched back to F3. Now F5 (no more beta build) is available and as far as I can see, it supports 1090T/1100T. Maybe I'll give it a shot.

F6f is a no go or you haven't tested it yet? Thanks.


----------



## MadGoat

I've seen from some that say F6f is better than F5. I personally don't think there is a difference between them ... although I haven't tried F6f myself.

I think as long as its F5 or younger it should be a better bet. I know I had tons of trouble before F5.


----------



## bajer29

Hey guys, is there any way on the UD5 to skip PCIe slots to let my GPUs breathe while in cfx? Right now I'm using both 16x slots and they are too close together making my temps soar above 70C









Thanks

Found that it apparently does work. Just ordered a 4" cfx bridge.


----------



## vinton13

What do I used to alter the NB voltage in the BIOS for the UD7?
CPU VID NB voltage (or something like that) or NB Voltage?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13*
> 
> What do I used to alter the NB voltage in the BIOS for the UD7?
> CPU VID NB voltage (or something like that) or NB Voltage?


Depends on what NB your trying to OC.

CPU/NB is going to be the NB that is located internally on the CPU. the NB Voltage is going to be the voltage for the physical NB on the mobo below the CPU.

I'm going to say you want the CPU/NB voltage off the top of my head.


----------



## vinton13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Depends on what NB your trying to OC.
> CPU/NB is going to be the NB that is located internally on the CPU. the NB Voltage is going to be the voltage for the physical NB on the mobo below the CPU.
> I'm going to say you want the CPU/NB voltage off the top of my head.


Well, I'm trying to OC the NB from 2000mhz to 2800mhz...


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullrespect*
> 
> Guys, straight up: what's the best BIOS version for 990FXA-UD3 v1.0? I'm using 1090T + F3 bios and I can't get it to work @ 4.0GHz with 1.42V. It requires 1.44V to be fully stable. Well, that's not the problem. The problem is that on a AM2+ Asus board the same CPU is stable at 4.0GHz with just 1.39V under Windows XP 64bit. Ok, you will tell that here's the difference: XP 64bit vs. 7 64bit. Agreed, but from 1.39V to 1.44V it's just too much of a difference. I don't know how to say it, but this UD3 board doesn't fulfill my expectations. Not at all.


F5 is the best for Phenom 2 chips.
For FX chips F6c is the only semi decent one. F6f breaks a lot of features and voltage control doesn't work properly.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13*
> 
> Well, I'm trying to OC the NB from 2000mhz to 2800mhz...


Then you want to set the CPU/NB. On my UD3/955BE in my backup rig I'm running the voltage at 1.30v. That is a safe voltage for 24/7 usage. Keep in mind that this Voltage will not add heat the the actual physical NB on the mobo, but add heat to the CPU, so make sure you can dissipate the heat.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Then you want to set the CPU/NB. On my UD3/955BE in my backup rig I'm running the voltage at 1.30v. That is a safe voltage for 24/7 usage. Keep in mind that this Voltage will not add heat the the actual physical NB on the mobo, but add heat to the CPU, so make sure you can dissipate the heat.


**its also common for 1.35v to be needed on the CPU/NB for a 2800-3000 NB freq. You should do what ever possible to get to 3000 nb. Will help out TONS with getting 4.0+ stable on a phenom II chip

Should have been an edit not a new post, sorry.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> F5 is the best for Phenom 2 chips.
> For FX chips F6c is the only semi decent one. F6f breaks a lot of features and voltage control doesn't work properly.


Yea, I use the F5 with my setup. Rock solid stable









**Having trouble working the site today....should have been one single post, not 3 posts....**


----------



## Moparman

Anyone had there ud3 over 333FSB? Im stuck at that an need to go just a little bit more.


----------



## vinton13

Wow...thanks a bunch *KhaoticKomputing*...I didn't even know that a higher NB will allow for a higher OC...4GHz with the third core unlocked with 2600NB Freq. (Phenom 555) wouldn't even let the system start...but at 2800MHz...it actually made it to prime and it's running right now!
Cheers. Rep'd


----------



## Willhemmens

Has any one beat my old Cinebench score yet with Thuban?
I think I may give it a go at some point soon. Chilly winters ftw.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13*
> 
> Wow...thanks a bunch *KhaoticKomputing*...I didn't even know that a higher NB will allow for a higher OC...4GHz with the third core unlocked with 2600NB Freq. (Phenom 555) wouldn't even let the system start...but at 2800MHz...it actually made it to prime and it's running right now!
> Cheers. Rep'd


NP. It helps out on the memory controller too. Easing up on any RAM overclocking, and only using 2 DIMM's of ram can also help out with stability.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Has any one beat my old Cinebench score yet with Thuban?
> I think I may give it a go at some point soon. Chilly winters ftw.


Dont have a thuban but might give it a go with my 955


----------



## bajer29

How much performance do you think I'll lose if I use the 16x PCIe slot and the 8x PCIe slot instead of both 16x PCIe slots?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> How much performance do you think I'll lose if I use the 16x PCIe slot and the 8x PCIe slot instead of both 16x PCIe slots?


Running two cards at 8x won't decrees performance much, if any at all.


----------



## bajer29

OK, thanks... Why does Gigabyte make it so difficult to fit two cfx cards comfortably on their mobos?


----------



## Marshmellow17

Can anyone help me fix this. Not sure what to do...F4 bios if it helps any...

oh wow, I'm and idiot, as I was...


----------



## JakR4bbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marshmellow17*
> 
> Can anyone help me fix this. Not sure what to do...F4 bios if it helps any...
> oh wow, I'm and idiot, as I was...


I assume you're trying to fix the date? Maybe I'm not reading enough into this. Just highlight the year and use page up/page down or +/- keys to change the value.


----------



## Marshmellow17

Yeah, I completely overlooked the fact that its currently 2012, not 2011. I was trying to change the day lol.


----------



## JakR4bbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marshmellow17*
> 
> Yeah, I completely overlooked the fact that its currently 2012, not 2011. I was trying to change the day lol.


Nice







Happens to the best of us.


----------



## fullrespect

Well, I've switched from F3 to F5 and there's no difference regarding my overclock. Still can't hit fully stable 4.0GHz with 1.42V and the voltage keeps jumping around 1.42 - 1.44 - 1.45. I think I'm gonna jump on the Asus bandwagon real soon.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullrespect*
> 
> Well, I've switched from F3 to F5 and there's no difference regarding my overclock. Still can't hit fully stable 4.0GHz with 1.42V and the voltage keeps jumping around 1.42 - 1.44 - 1.45. I think I'm gonna jump on the Asus bandwagon real soon.


Did you clear CMOS after updating the BIOS to F5? I know its silly but in many UD3 this is necesary to play stable, specially after moving to F5 version.


----------



## fullrespect

Yes, I've cleared the CMOS after updating the bios. And no, that's not silly at all, you have to clear CMOS data everytime you update your bios.


----------



## vinton13

One question...what is the best BIOS to use for a FX8120 on the UD7?


----------



## legionofone22

I would be interested to know what was the best bios for the FX 8120 and ud7 aswell. Vinton would mind telling me what bios settings you used to get to 4.5. Thanks!


----------



## vinton13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legionofone22*
> 
> I would be interested to know what was the best bios for the FX 8120 and ud7 aswell. Vinton would mind telling me what bios settings you used to get to 4.5. Thanks!


I'd love to help, but it wasn't stable so I'm back at stock for now...I plan to get it stable at 4.5 though. When the school work ease off I'll be trying again for stability.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullrespect*
> 
> Well, I've switched from F3 to F5 and there's no difference regarding my overclock. Still can't hit fully stable 4.0GHz with 1.42V and the voltage keeps jumping around 1.42 - 1.44 - 1.45. I think I'm gonna jump on the Asus bandwagon real soon.


It would seem your having a voltage issue. The Vdroop is to sparatic for you to maintain your overclock. Try adding more CPU volt's(1.450 to 1.475v maybe higher). Also is your CPU/NB freq at the stock 2000? if it is you need to bump that bad boy to 2800-3000. this will take some more volt's on the CPU/NB voltage. 1.30v-1.35v is perfectly safe if you have decent cooler.


----------



## legionofone22

Haha alright, I saw it in your sig so I though you had it locked down







. I did the Vdroop mod and that helped me get the voltage stable so it wasn't dropping like crazy. However I cant seem to get past 4.4GHz no matter what I do......so either my chip sucks horribly or I dunno.


----------



## vinton13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legionofone22*
> 
> Haha alright, I saw it in your sig so I though you had it locked down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I did the Vdroop mod and that helped me get the voltage stable so it wasn't dropping like crazy. However I cant seem to get past 4.4GHz no matter what I do......so either my chip sucks horribly or I dunno.


I don't plan on stopping till I get 4.5GHz stable so that's why I didn't change it. I'll be sure to message you on the settings if I do...perhaps by weekend.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> It would seem your having a voltage issue. The Vdroop is to sparatic for you to maintain your overclock. Try adding more CPU volt's(1.450 to 1.475v maybe higher). Also is your CPU/NB freq at the stock 2000? if it is you need to bump that bad boy to 2800-3000. this will take some more volt's on the CPU/NB voltage. 1.30v-1.35v is perfectly safe if you have decent cooler.


On my board, if I set the voltage to 1.5 in the BIOS, in HW monitor and CPUZ, it shows anywhere between 1.52 and 1.54 when it's idling...and under load it drops to a constant 1.47. (This is using a Phenom 555 btw)

However, lets say I set it to 1.475 in the BIOS, it's goes to 1.5 when idling, but stabilizes at 1.47 under load. Weird huh?

ALSO...still need an answer for my question guys!
Best BIOS for an 8120 on the UD7?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13*
> 
> I don't plan on stopping till I get 4.5GHz stable so that's why I didn't change it. I'll be sure to message you on the settings if I do...perhaps by weekend.
> On my board, if I set the voltage to 1.5 in the BIOS, in HW monitor and CPUZ, it shows anywhere between 1.52 and 1.54 when it's idling...and under load it drops to a constant 1.47. (This is using a Phenom 555 btw)
> However, lets say I set it to 1.475 in the BIOS, it's goes to 1.5 when idling, but stabilizes at 1.47 under load. Weird huh?
> ALSO...still need an answer for my question guys!
> Best BIOS for an 8120 on the UD7?


Yea, That is Vboost and droop kicking you in the rear. Do you use any power saving feature's or anything like that? LLC would be great for you right about now.


----------



## Tekken666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Tekken666,
> I have a UD5 rev 1.0 since last August, had some problems with all prior BIOS's including F6, been using F7h since it became available 12-9-2011, stable for me. Running 16GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR3 (4x4GB sticks) 1600 MHz. 9-9-9-24 with non-overclock, 1333 MHz with 9-9-9-24 oc'd.
> Steve


Tested.
Update to F7h, try set memory to 1600 9-9-9-24 not stable.
try set memory to 1333 9-9-9-24, not stable.
try set memory to 1600 8-8-8-24 Volt 1.6, not stable.
I make most try on settings. I have see that if i take on autoboost on bios and others stuff the system are a little more stable, but at now more Blue screen append and all time same ****** error:
DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL










PLS help, i wanna this PC be stable >_<. If you need screen from test, stress or so tell me i can make all test, screen or so, but i need to resolve this bad problem.

HELP ! ! !


----------



## fullrespect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> It would seem your having a voltage issue. The Vdroop is to sparatic for you to maintain your overclock. Try adding more CPU volt's(1.450 to 1.475v maybe higher). Also is your CPU/NB freq at the stock 2000? if it is you need to bump that bad boy to 2800-3000. this will take some more volt's on the CPU/NB voltage. 1.30v-1.35v is perfectly safe if you have decent cooler.


I don't know if the vdroop is the real problem here. When I'm running light programs and the load isn't too heavy, the board will hit the CPU with just 1.408V at 4.0GHz.. On the other hand, when I'm running BF3 the voltage is rising to about 1.440V - 1.456V. On rare occasions, LinX will make it explode to 1.47V. My CPU-NB is at 2.88Ghz with 1.30V, I think I'm ok here. Bios cpu voltage is set at 1.425V.

The cooling solution is an H100 push-pull @ 1350rpm.

Well, I've stabilized it at 4.02GHz (19.5 x 206) 1.408 - 1.424 - 1.440V depends on the load / CPU-NB @ 2.88GHz 1.30V / DDR3 1640MHz / HT-Link 2050MHz


----------



## vinton13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yea, That is Vboost and droop kicking you in the rear. Do you use any power saving feature's or anything like that? LLC would be great for you right about now.


Nope...I'm using the rev. 1


----------



## killerbyte

I'm encountering some issues with getting my memory to 1866. I'm on bios F6 now .Any tips?

Also manually setting the cpu clock to 233 crashes the bios


----------



## lastzombie

i have 990fxa ud7 with 1090t. which bios would be best for me? i have been using f7 bios but something is going on atm. my oc setting don't work i cant even boot up if at 3.4 ghz. i have been using my cpu at 4.2 for while. maybe i damaged it i dont know. i want to be certain. if u guys say my bios is ok i will clear cmos and try to oc with same settings. can u tell me what may be problem here. i had to run my cpu at higher voltage(1.55 @bios) but c&q and other power safe things were turned on from bios so things balanced themselves out pretty nicely. when cpu was idle it ran at 900mhz at safe v zone. and at load it went up to 1.55 for a sec and go down to 1.45-47. my cpu nb voltage was 1.375(if i am correct) and it was around 2900 mhz. my temps max at prime or heavy usage at 45-50 Celsius(core temp readings). thanks for help in advance...

my system was:
md phenom II x6 1090t [email protected] 4.162ghz with Noctua NH-D14 cpu cooler
Gigabyte 990fxa-UD7
2*4 gb [email protected] Corsair xms3 ram
Sapphire 2gb [email protected] cf
Enermax Revolution 1250w


----------



## remorseless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerbyte*
> 
> I'm encountering some issues with getting my memory to 1866. I'm on bios F6 now .Any tips?
> Also manually setting the cpu clock to 233 crashes the bios


only help i can provide took me like 20 tries after couple bsods


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remorseless*
> 
> only help i can provide took me like 20 tries after couple bsods


Hmm. Dose the BD chips not work like the others? meaning dose a bump the the NB freq do anything at all for stability and performance? i see your at stock 2000. have you made any attempt to go higher than that?


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> Tested.
> Update to F7h, try set memory to 1600 9-9-9-24 not stable.
> try set memory to 1333 9-9-9-24, not stable.
> try set memory to 1600 8-8-8-24 Volt 1.6, not stable.
> I make most try on settings. I have see that if i take on autoboost on bios and others stuff the system are a little more stable, but at now more Blue screen append and all time same ****** error:
> DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PLS help, i wanna this PC be stable >_<. If you need screen from test, stress or so tell me i can make all test, screen or so, but i need to resolve this bad problem.
> HELP ! ! !


Tekken666,

I don't know, I have a 965BE processor, don't have any experience with the bulldozers.
At stock speed, I use 1.5 v for memory.
Do you have BSOD's at stock speed (no overclocking)?

Steve


----------



## Tekken666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Tekken666,
> I don't know, I have a 965BE processor, don't have any experience with the bulldozers.
> At stock speed, I use 1.5 v for memory.
> Do you have BSOD's at stock speed (no overclocking)?
> Steve


I have try auto set, and make any time BSOD, i have try on by SPD setting and BSOD why are 8-8-8-24 at 1600mhz but mainboard on auto set 1333 and not 1600, now i got the memory on MEMTEST+ for recheck if they are a problem on memory.
I got also 1 question for MEMTEST+: why when start i got not the same data that i have set on Bios on memory  ?
Memtest tell that i got memory on 400mhz 800mhz and 5-5-10-??(do no remember)
Yesterday full test on PCmark, no BSOD, play on pc all day no BSOD, lauch 3dmark11 and lock on last test.(not BSOD)
Now i wanan see tonight if i got error or not on MEMTEST+


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> I have try auto set, and make any time BSOD, i have try on by SPD setting and BSOD why are 8-8-8-24 at 1600mhz but mainboard on auto set 1333 and not 1600, now i got the memory on MEMTEST+ for recheck if they are a problem on memory.
> I got also 1 question for MEMTEST+: why when start i got not the same data that i have set on Bios on memory  ?
> Memtest tell that i got memory on 400mhz 800mhz and 5-5-10-??(do no remember)
> Yesterday full test on PCmark, no BSOD, play on pc all day no BSOD, lauch 3dmark11 and lock on last test.(not BSOD)
> Now i wanan see tonight if i got error or not on MEMTEST+


Are your memory sticks new? They seem to be a little shifty if you are OCing with no change of speed in memtest86. How are you OCing? Are you using @BIOS in windows or are you doing all your tweaks through the BIOS before start-up?

All I'm saying is that they may be DOA.


----------



## Tekken666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Are your memory sticks new? They seem to be a little shifty if you are OCing with no change of speed in memtest86. How are you OCing? Are you using @BIOS in windows or are you doing all your tweaks through the BIOS before start-up?
> All I'm saying is that they may be DOA.


Yes the memory are new, never use before, i do OCing on BIOS directly and i make why on Bios Auto set my memory to 1333 and not 1600

I repeat the memory are CMZ8GX3M2A1600C8 CL8-8-8-24 12.8 GB/s 1.50 Volt No ECC Un-Buffered Ungaged but atm are set on bios on CL8-9-8-24

DOA what are DOA ? DeadOrAlive ???







It is on test now i repeat and atm i got 0 ERROR but i see on not the right setting that i have put on BIOS so i tell the question if it is normal or not.


----------



## bajer29

Well, I would run memtest for almost a day. If it still catches nothing, then I would say it might just be the model of the RAM and try returning them and replacing them with another brand like Gskill. Corsair Vengeance are supposed to be really solid, so this really doesn't seem to be the issue.

DOA- Dead on Arrival

I see that you have the latest BIOS, which can't be the problem.

I'm thinking it's mobo, cpu, memory compatibility issue. Look at the memory support list *HERE* to see if you can find the specific memory modules you have (right side near top of page). If they aren't on the list there's a small but good chance they are not compatible.


----------



## Tekken666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Well, I would run memtest for almost a day. If it still catches nothing, then I would say it might just be the model of the RAM and try returning them and replacing them with another brand like Gskill. Corsair Vengeance are supposed to be really solid, so this really doesn't seem to be the issue.
> DOA- Dead on Arrival
> I see that you have the latest BIOS, which can't be the problem.
> I'm thinking it's mobo, cpu, memory compatibility issue. Look at the memory support list *HERE* to see if you can find the specific memory modules you have (right side near top of page). If they aren't on the list there's a small but good chance they are not compatible.


I have check the list of memory checked before buy it >_< so i do no think it is incompatibility problem. I think are a problem on settings on Bios about DRAM. I have learn on most others forum about this memory that most got problem on find a right set stable.

Example :
http://forums.anandtech.com/archive/index.php/t-2195182.html


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> I have check the list of memory checked before buy it >_< so i do no think it is incompatibility problem. I think are a problem on settings on Bios about DRAM. I have learn on most others forum about this memory that most got problem on find a right set stable.
> Example :
> http://forums.anandtech.com/archive/index.php/t-2195182.html


Hmmm... It could also be that you are running a 955x4 in a 990fxa chipset mobo. I'm running a Phenom II as well and have not had any problems running stock clocks out of the box









Corsair's support is supposed to be pretty good. Since, I exhausted my options, maybe you could try emailing Corsair support and they can walk you through it? Or you can wait around here until someone more knowledgeable pops in. Sorry I wasn't much help...


----------



## Tekken666

Ok, so question:

Why on MEMTEST+ i read :

400mhz DDR800 CAS:4-5-5-15 DDR3 64bits  ???


----------



## MadGoat

memtest doesn't really read the memory config correctly,

It might be a older version of memtest that doesn't have updated mem specs,

But don't worry about what memtest "Says" your memory is at. Its not accurate. What your bios is set at is what its running at.

Example: I have my memory running at 1656mhz at 7-8-7-20-30-1t right now (for testing). Memtest reads 1600 at 8-8-8-24-34-2t. Its not right...

No worries...


----------



## Tekken666

Ok, so i confirm that memory have pass 5x times the memtest and 0 error ..........

so i restart to get my mind crazy....

What i can test now ?

And also why if i turn off turbo mode and other stuff on Bios OS start to be unstable.

At now the system work but i do no how many more day i can make whit not crash.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> Ok, so i confirm that memory have pass 5x times the memtest and 0 error ..........
> so i restart to get my mind crazy....
> What i can test now ?
> And also why if i turn off turbo mode and other stuff on Bios OS start to be unstable.
> At now the system work but i do no how many more day i can make whit not crash.


Run *Prime95* "blend test" on your system for best way stress your PC. If it has to do with the memory or CPU, your PC will surely BSOD during a blend test.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *legionofone22*
> 
> Haha alright, I saw it in your sig so I though you had it locked down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I did the Vdroop mod and that helped me get the voltage stable so it wasn't dropping like crazy. However I cant seem to get past 4.4GHz no matter what I do......so either my chip sucks horribly or I dunno.


Could someone point me to the tutorial for this vdroop mod? Did a quick google, but they seemed to all be for the UD7. If its not too technical I think I may try it. thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yea, That is Vboost and droop kicking you in the rear. Do you use any power saving feature's or anything like that? LLC would be great for you right about now.


I have been trying to research what LLC does, but I havent been able to find a good despcription. I know it has to do with voltage control, but thats it. If someone could try to explain this to me, it would be great help. I have the Rev 1.1 board so I have the option
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Hmm. Dose the BD chips not work like the others? meaning dose a bump the the NB freq do anything at all for stability and performance? i see your at stock 2000. have you made any attempt to go higher than that?


Isnt stock CPU/NB 2400 Mhz, not 2000?


----------



## Tekken666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Run *Prime95* "blend test" on your system for best way stress your PC. If it has to do with the memory or CPU, your PC will surely BSOD during a blend test.


I'm make this test now, and i'm write there on same time.

My 8x core are on 3624.24mhz (201.35x18.0) all 100% load VID 1.3 CPU temp 54°C, and atm no BSOD

How many time i need make this test?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Isnt stock CPU/NB 2400 Mhz, not 2000?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> I'm make this test now, and i'm write there on same time.
> My 8x core are on 3624.24mhz (201.35x18.0) all 100% load VID 1.3 CPU temp 54°C, and atm no BSOD
> How many time i need make this test?


I run a Prime95 test for 12 hours, if it passes without BSOD or errors, I consider it stable.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> I'm make this test now, and i'm write there on same time.
> My 8x core are on 3624.24mhz (201.35x18.0) all 100% load VID 1.3 CPU temp 54°C, and atm no BSOD
> How many time i need make this test?


If you can run the test continuously for 12 hours, then you can be pretty certain your CPU is stable. Good luck


----------



## Tekken666

BSOD >_< .... so ? now what i can test or make for stability >_<


----------



## lastzombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastzombie*
> 
> i have 990fxa ud7 with 1090t. which bios would be best for me? i have been using f7 bios but something is going on atm. my oc setting don't work i cant even boot up if at 3.4 ghz. i have been using my cpu at 4.2 for while. maybe i damaged it i dont know. i want to be certain. if u guys say my bios is ok i will clear cmos and try to oc with same settings. can u tell me what may be problem here. i had to run my cpu at higher voltage(1.55 @bios) but c&q and other power safe things were turned on from bios so things balanced themselves out pretty nicely. when cpu was idle it ran at 900mhz at safe v zone. and at load it went up to 1.55 for a sec and go down to 1.45-47. my cpu nb voltage was 1.375(if i am correct) and it was around 2900 mhz. my temps max at prime or heavy usage at 45-50 Celsius(core temp readings). thanks for help in advance...
> my system was:
> md phenom II x6 1090t [email protected] 4.162ghz with Noctua NH-D14 cpu cooler
> Gigabyte 990fxa-UD7
> 2*4 gb [email protected] Corsair xms3 ram
> Sapphire 2gb [email protected] cf
> Enermax Revolution 1250w


So no help?


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tekken666*
> 
> BSOD >_< .... so ? now what i can test or make for stability >_<


Have you raised the voltage any? You said your VID is 1.3, is that the default voltage for your CPU? If it is you will probobly need to raise that until you can get it stable. Sorry, not too familiar with BD...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastzombie*
> 
> So no help?


Wish i could help, but I have no clue about the bios on this mobo. Im sure someone will come along with an answer soon though


----------



## Kieran

Does anyone on here have a GA-990FXA-UD7 with 2 3 slot graphics cards (Asus Direct CU II)?
This is the only motherboard i've found so far that would give me a one slot gap between my 2 6950's which will really help in terms of temperatures.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastzombie*
> 
> So no help?


I've got the same board and CPU. I'm using the F5 BIOS and I'm able to get up to 4.2 GHz stable. I've got the V Core set to 1.5 volts. I hope that helps.


----------



## Tekken666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Have you raised the voltage any? You said your VID is 1.3, is that the default voltage for your CPU? If it is you will probobly need to raise that until you can get it stable. Sorry, not too familiar with BD...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish i could help, but I have no clue about the bios on this mobo. Im sure someone will come along with an answer soon though


It is Turbo mode and the other setting on bios that make the VID and Clock and multiplier variable


----------



## remorseless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Hmm. Dose the BD chips not work like the others? meaning dose a bump the the NB freq do anything at all for stability and performance? i see your at stock 2000. have you made any attempt to go higher than that?


i have tried it but then it wont boot at all no beeps no lights nothing. i even treid 2100 and it still happens my board is wonky for some reason


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remorseless*
> 
> i have tried it but then it wont boot at all no beeps no lights nothing. i even treid 2100 and it still happens my board is wonky for some reason


wonky would be a great word for it lol. I just wasn't sure if that was a BD thing or not. I'll have to look into how they should/do react to NB bump's. Thanks.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## lastzombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've got the same board and CPU. I'm using the F5 BIOS and I'm able to get up to 4.2 GHz stable. I've got the V Core set to 1.5 volts. I hope that helps.


thanks for help i will try f5 bios when i have time. now i am using f7 and everything is on stock... have you tried new bioses after f5 for that cpu ? i am especially interested in improvements on vdroop thats why i keep getting latest bioses.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lastzombie*
> 
> thanks for help i will try f5 bios when i have time. now i am using f7 and everything is on stock... have you tried new bioses after f5 for that cpu ? i am especially interested in improvements on vdroop thats why i keep getting latest bioses.


I haven't tried any of the more recent versions. I really don't think that vdroop is going to resolved with a BIOS update. The reason I've stuck with F5 is simply because it gave me the ability to have a stable overclock at 4.2. I'm not even overclocking my NB and I still have C&Q enabled as well. So far I'd have to say that this is a pretty good result for a 3.2 processor and my benchmark results aren't too shabby either.


----------



## _Nevets_

hey hey .. i have a little issue on my amd 8150 with this motherboard. . my board is the ud3 edition.. if anyone knows how to disable cpu cores on this board / this cpu plz let me know. thnx. also maybe its just this cpu that wont let me? it says in my motherboard manual that it is supposed to have a cpu core control right underneath where it says cpu unlock in the advanced bios features menu ..


----------



## Tizzie

@_Nevets_ You would have to update your bios to the beta bios (version F6f), it's available through the gigabyte website

Btw if you're using the Bios program on your computer to search for the beta bios, it won't work so you'll have to download and update it manually.

After you update it, the options to turn off the cores is in the "Advanced Bios Settings"


----------



## Rebelord

Sup guys, I havent been following this thread as much lately. Anyone running the new F8 bios for the UD7? Still on F6e myself. Thinking of trying the F8 non beta. If anyone has any input. Otherwise looks like F5 might be the best one for my 1090T to keep stable at 4Ghz.

Rebelord


----------



## Wild Wally

Been running F8a for about a month now. No real problems except the turbo boost doesn't seem to work for my FX-8150. Got a nice 4.2 OC going though:thumb:


----------



## Blittzin

Thanks for making the time and effort and for making this forum. I'm an asus nvidia refugee I'm really green I hope to learn a lot and someday help others.


----------



## _Nevets_

well .. i checked .. im running f5. thnx 4 the tip


----------



## killerbyte

quick question can an asus 7970 run amd drivers ? When ever i install the new drivers from amd they end up renaming the card *AMD HD* and the windows WinExpIndex is lowered to like 6 when it was 7.9 before


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killerbyte*
> 
> quick question can an asus 7970 run amd drivers ? When ever i install the new drivers from amd they end up renaming the card *AMD HD* and the windows WinExpIndex is lowered to like 6 when it was 7.9 before


What drivers did you install? I know with some factory overclocked Cards (this has happends with an EVGA 460 GTX and with an MSI 6970 I have used) if i use the drivers fromt he nvidia site, current or not the WIE drops. If I go download the repackage drivers from mfg(EVGA or MSI) and the WIE go's back to 7.9.


----------



## MadGoat

Thats strange,

Does the manufacturer use an overclock through the driver?

Let alone, I would think a 7970 would score Max WEI no matter what...


----------



## ML241

Has anyone played with XHD? My RAID setup is going off the AMD drivers so I never saw a option for it and cant find much info on it.


----------



## sbeast

no, but i just enabled SLI on my GTS 250's, looks great


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blittzin*
> 
> Thanks for making the time and effort and for making this forum. I'm an asus nvidia refugee I'm really green I hope to learn a lot and someday help others.


Blittzin, welcome to the forum and please take the time to fill out your specs. This will help us to know what you're running so we can be of more help to you. Good luck and I hope you find these forums as informative and helpful as I have.


----------



## billy66bare

Has anybody found a water block that will fit the VRM's on the UD5, yet? Surely something will fit.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> Has anybody found a water block that will fit the VRM's on the UD5, yet? Surely something will fit.


EK has a universal block that vits the VRAMS.


----------



## arrows101

hey anyone experience this? im using ud5, upgraded my cpu but it wont boot but it has power all fans running and no beep sound?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrows101*
> 
> hey anyone experience this? im using ud5, upgraded my cpu but it wont boot but it has power all fans running and no beep sound?


Check your cooler mount. Its common to missmount the cooler or backpalte causing a shot. Also if you have a case speaker, dose it beep?

What CPU where you using, and what CPU did you upgrade too??

If you where using an old Phenom II CPU and went to a BD chip you will need to update the BIOS.


----------



## arrows101

yes i have bios speaker but no beep, before replacing the cpu from athlon to phenom i already upgraded the bios from the latest bios. cpu coolers are well intact.


----------



## arrows101

and i did return back the athlon but its the same. dont know what happened. all i know is

replaced the cpu from athlon to phenom. it went to cmos the 1st time and checked that phenom is recognized, then exit cmos. boot all fans running no beep and wont start up


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrows101*
> 
> and i did return back the athlon but its the same. dont know what happened. all i know is
> replaced the cpu from athlon to phenom. it went to cmos the 1st time and checked that phenom is recognized, then exit cmos. boot all fans running no beep and wont start up


All you can do is doubble check eveything. From making sure the RAM is seated, to dubble checking all the PSU power plugs are plugged in. most of the time when people swap a CPU or cooler and run into this its the CPU cooler backplate shorting things out.


----------



## arrows101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> All you can do is doubble check eveything. From making sure the RAM is seated, to dubble checking all the PSU power plugs are plugged in. most of the time when people swap a CPU or cooler and run into this its the CPU cooler backplate shorting things out.


yes check everything replaced rams too and slots. i think my motherboard has a problem but its only a month old.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrows101*
> 
> yes check everything replaced rams too and slots. i think my motherboard has a problem but its only a month old.


That is very possible. Some time's when a PC is giving me a weird trouble like that I will walk away for a little bit and come back to it in a few hours. I have had some stupid things keep a PC from booting...My most recent issue was due to me not pushing the RAM all the way down lol. Took about 15 min to solve but I was starting to get annoyed at it lol.


----------



## arrows101

i loaded my phenom x4 960t to my old motherboard, it has the same problem when im trying to unlock the other cores, but i can restart and press ctrl+alt+del unlike in my ud5.. any ideas how can i bypass cpu and load default settings of my CMOS of my UD5?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrows101*
> 
> i loaded my phenom x4 960t to my old motherboard, it has the same problem when im trying to unlock the other cores, but i can restart and press ctrl+alt+del unlike in my ud5.. any ideas how can i bypass cpu and load default settings of my CMOS of my UD5?


Reset the CMOS.


----------



## arrows101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Reset the CMOS.


hey please teach me how to reset cmos? thank you


----------



## Wild Wally

The easiest and surest way to reset the CMOS is to take out the battery on the motherboard and wait a while before reinstalling it.

WW


----------



## arrows101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> The easiest and surest way to reset the CMOS is to take out the battery on the motherboard and wait a while before reinstalling it.
> WW


thanks ill remove my battery and wait for atleast an hour?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrows101*
> 
> hey please teach me how to reset cmos? thank you


Shut down the PC compleatly, Remove the power cord form the PSU. Open the case and remove the Motherboard Battery. Flip the switch on the back of the PSU a few time's to be safe. Then go to then Use a Screw driver OR jumper pin to short out the CLR_CMOS jumper on the mobo for a few second. After that, place the battery back in the mobo, plug the PSU back into the wall/Power strip, flip the switch on PSU back to on and turn on the PSU. Once in the BIOS you have to "Load factory Presets". All of this is lined out in page 29 of the owner hand book. You can also Download a copy from the gigabyte webside. Good Luck!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> The easiest and surest way to reset the CMOS is to take out the battery on the motherboard and wait a while before reinstalling it.
> WW


You still have to short out the CMOS pins on the mobo


----------



## arrows101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Shut down the PC compleatly, Remove the power cord form the PSU. Open the case and remove the Motherboard Battery. Flip the switch on the back of the PSU a few time's to be safe. Then go to then Use a Screw driver OR jumper pin to short out the CLR_CMOS jumper on the mobo for a few second. After that, place the battery back in the mobo, plug the PSU back into the wall/Power strip, flip the switch on PSU back to on and turn on the PSU. Once in the BIOS you have to "Load factory Presets". All of this is lined out in page 29 of the owner hand book. You can also Download a copy from the gigabyte webside. Good Luck!


thanks for all your help, ill do this. thank you thank you..


----------



## arrows101

still no lock







tried it many times. using a jumper, removed the Battery... turn it off again and again. still no beep, all fans working but wont start.


----------



## arrows101

i mean luck.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Did you have to remove your mobo to take the cooler off? if you did check all the screw's, and make sure its nice and tight.


----------



## arrows101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Did you have to remove your mobo to take the cooler off? if you did check all the screw's, and make sure its nice and tight.


yes, all screws are tight. tried it many times replacing the cpu and cooler.

tried also 2 cpu's 1 athlon and phenom both are working under my asus mobo.


----------



## arrows101

my ud5, guess i have to give up.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arrows101*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my ud5, guess i have to give up.


That really sucks. I kinda want to know what happened to it. Sorry for your issue.


----------



## arrows101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> That really sucks. I kinda want to know what happened to it. Sorry for your issue.


yeah. i dont know either. just trying to unlock the hidden cores of my phenom 960t. i dont know why my ud5 can't handle reverting back. considering ud5 is equipped with 2 bios. is it the motherboard, cpu or me to blame... i don't know.









isolated all possible problems, remove/replaced ram/ gpu's, fix cables of ssd....









damn its more complicated resetting cmos way back 1995... why now...


----------



## bmgjet

Can you just double check that the 8pin power cord is plugged in fully.
I know on my UD3 that it can feel like its plugged in properly but a few times it hasnt been and I got nothing but the fans spinning up.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> You still have to short out the CMOS pins on the mobo


As long as you wait for about 20 minutes or so the charge will naturally dissipate. This is why a board with a bad battery will lose it's CMOS settings after a relatively brief period of time.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> As long as you wait for about 20 minutes or so the charge will naturally dissipate. This is why a board with a bad battery will lose it's CMOS settings after a relatively brief period of time.


faster and most of the time the jumper is easier for me.


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> EK has a universal block that vits the VRAMS.


Is that confirmed somewhere. EK says they don't have a block for it. The old universal GA kit's is too big.

Thanks, btw.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> Is that confirmed somewhere. EK says they don't have a block for it. The old universal GA kit's is too big.


Click this enter in the hardware and follow instructions. It will tell you what block fits. I would do it but I am running prime95 right now(3 hours down of 12 for my 4.7Ghz stress test WOOT!) so I cannot

Ignore my post. I just looked into it they make uni blocks that will fit the board, all but the VRAMS....Sorry.


----------



## willup

New to this motherboard just wanted to know, how difficult was is for some to overclock ram with this board. I have tried to get my Corsair 16gb Vengeance RAM overclocked to at least 1600mhz instead of the auto setting of 1333mhz. Having problems with the timings. Tried to change one thing and couldnt get my computer started again until I took out all but one stick of Ram. So Im a little frightened to keep trying to overclock the ram. Anyone know a good guide for my motherboard?


----------



## billy66bare

I can't help you with a guide, but I have 4x2GB (I know overkill. lol) at 1600 8-9-8-24 2T. I've had it at 7-8-7 24 1T before, but haven't reset it after finding it wasn't the root of a problem. Memtest86+ has a bootable test that should only take about 45 minutes to find any errors.

@KhaoticKomputing: Curse you for getting my hopes up!!!







Oh well, no love for the mid range.


----------



## Moparman

Can someone help me with my ud3? Every time I boot the vid on the cpu changes. What bios should I be using? Im also running a 8150 faildozer.


----------



## killerbyte

When my pc first had the no boot issue , try taking out the battery but it didn't work. You must unplug all the components that's is sending electricity to your computer and wait about 10 mins. . After that plug everything in but leave the battery out. Turn on your computer and and leave it on for about 3 mins and then reset set it . eventually the bios will boot .(well mines did any way) after that you can turn off your pc and put the battery back in.


----------



## adolf512

am still note sure, 990fxa-ud3 seams to be the most reliable am3+ board, but it might not be able to archive the highest oc, but i woukld be happy with 200mhz higher than my current board(i need 1.525V to get prime stable at 4ghz).

i don't really like the pci_e layout ud3 uses completely, if use 2 3-slot cards in CF/sli there will only be one slot left for ssd-disks etc. but if you just use 2 slot card it will be fine(now i have a 2-slot hd 5850). i like how 5the boards and the old school bios layout that just works and also looks awesome.

one thing i miss from the ga-990fxa-ud3 board is internal spdif INput. i am thinking of getting a anthem dv2 or av50 av processor when upgrading my sound, these has really fine dacs and one way to transfer the audio to the pc is to use coaxial spdif, it's 96khz and 24bit which should be enough for vinyl ripping atleast, i won't need that feature for a while(if ever) but it's good to have.

using hdmi would be ideal but hdmi capture cards isn't that cheap, on the other hand you can get full 192khz 24bit or multichannel lossless audio plus video(wii etc). being able to use my asus xonat stx card in an other computer would be nice. i don't know about any cheap way to get just sound over hdmi to computer.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Been running F8a for about a month now. No real problems except the turbo boost doesn't seem to work for my FX-8150. Got a nice 4.2 OC going though:thumb:


And the Vdrop and Vdroop still the same?!


----------



## paultan

Hello guys, I'm just new here and a noob owner of a gigabyte 990FXa-Ud7, FX-8150 and 4x4GB Dominator Quadchannel kit 1866DDR3 rams.

I've been having trouble OCing this baby. Mind if I ask you guys for some tips and safety temps and voltages? thanks! I'll post my settings later.


----------



## remorseless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultan*
> 
> Hello guys, I'm just new here and a noob owner of a gigabyte 990FXa-Ud7, FX-8150 and 4x4GB Dominator Quadchannel kit 1866DDR3 rams.
> I've been having trouble OCing this baby. Mind if I ask you guys for some tips and safety temps and voltages? thanks! I'll post my settings later.


http://forums.tweaktown.com/gigabyte/46237-bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming.html

it find it useful maybe you will too


----------



## paultan

thanks for that! Is load line really important? I'm using the latest bios. F8a - i this ok? or I use the lower version? I can't stable my oc


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultan*
> 
> thanks for that! Is load line really important? I'm using the latest bios. F8a - i this ok? or I use the lower version? I can't stable my oc


Load Line Calibration is not mandatory, but will help with stability, and can also help lower the Vcore needed for overclocking. All it dose is attempt to balance out Vdroop or Vboost.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> And the Vdrop and Vdroop still the same?!


Never been an issue with me as everything runs with stock values in BIOS except for the OC on the CPU. When I try to change something else it crashes on me. Stable is good.


----------



## Snotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paultan*
> 
> thanks for that! Is load line really important? I'm using the latest bios. F8a - i this ok? or I use the lower version? I can't stable my oc
> 
> 
> 
> Load Line Calibration is not mandatory, but will help with stability, and can also help lower the Vcore needed for overclocking. All it dose is attempt to balance out Vdroop or Vboost.
Click to expand...

There is a manual loadline calibration settings on the ud7 you can change :s ?

Where . never seen it ?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snotty*
> 
> There is a manual loadline calibration settings on the ud7 you can change :s ?
> Where . never seen it ?


I know that the UD3 and 5 dont have LLC. I'm pretty sure the UD7 dose not have it, but I could be wrong, there was talk of a BIOS update possibly adding LLC, or it might have been a second revision UD7 with LLC. I'm not sure.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I know that the UD3 and 5 dont have LLC. I'm pretty sure the UD7 dose not have it, but I could be wrong, there was talk of a BIOS update possibly adding LLC, or it might have been a second revision UD7 with LLC. I'm not sure.


Only the rev 1.1 have it.


----------



## neojack

New owener of a 990FXA-UD7 here (in fact i bought the one from ESP : http://www.overclock.net/t/1178113/gigabyte-990fxa-ud7-price-drop)

very satisfied with this stuff

I am using it With 2 x 6850 in crossfire, ALL PASSIVE








my secret is the Silverstone FT-02 case wich has the best airflow in the world imho

might take pics if asked









Tanks for all the info here, I learned a lot !


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> Only the rev 1.1 have it.


Yea, I can remember hearing people talk about a new revision having LLC, I just never heard anything more than people talking about it Thanks.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## MadGoat

Finally trying f6f for the ud3...

So far I'm noticing voltages are more stable.

It seems however that its producing more heat with the same OC that I used with f5.

Anyone else notice this behaviour with f6f?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Finally trying f6f for the ud3...
> 
> So far I'm noticing voltages are more stable.
> 
> It seems however that its producing more heat with the same OC that I used with f5.
> 
> Anyone else notice this behaviour with f6f?


Yes and No. With f6f i run cool and quiet, and it works perfectly on my FX. So my idle temps are low, and my liquid temps stay low. With F5 i do not run cool and quie (causes performance issues), So my cpu idles pretty high (40c) due to liquid temp being 40c, Full load is under 55c. I liked the f6f bios, but i found it to be far less stable than f5 when it comes to overclocking. So while i love the fact that f6f cool and quiet works will bulldozer flawlessly, so my temps stay lower (and less fan noise), but i give up overclock stability ( can only get to 4.5ghz stable, vs 5ghz)

I hope a new non beta bios comes out, and gives me the overclocking of F5, and the working features of F6F.

I really wanted to stay with F6F, but stability was killing me, so i went back to F5 for now. If your wondering the blue screen of death i was getting with F6F was not clock interrupt, was some sort of memory dump. I am running DDR3 2000 speeds with 1t 9-11-9-27 timings so maybe that becomes unstable with F6F. I tried just about everything though, couldn't get my computer stable past 4.5ghz and to do that i had to pull memory speed back to 1866, and set timings to 2t-8-10-8-27.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Finally trying f6f for the ud3...
> So far I'm noticing voltages are more stable.
> It seems however that its producing more heat with the same OC that I used with f5.
> Anyone else notice this behaviour with f6f?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes and No. With f6f i run cool and quiet, and it works perfectly on my FX. So my idle temps are low, and my liquid temps stay low. With F5 i do not run cool and quie (causes performance issues), So my cpu idles pretty high (40c) due to liquid temp being 40c, Full load is under 55c. I liked the f6f bios, but i found it to be far less stable than f5 when it comes to overclocking. So while i love the fact that f6f cool and quiet works will bulldozer flawlessly, so my temps stay lower (and less fan noise), but i give up overclock stability ( can only get to 4.5ghz stable, vs 5ghz)
> I hope a new non beta bios comes out, and gives me the overclocking of F5, and the working features of F6F.
> I really wanted to stay with F6F, but stability was killing me, so i went back to F5 for now. If your wondering the blue screen of death i was getting with F6F was not clock interrupt, was some sort of memory dump. I am running DDR3 2000 speeds with 1t 9-11-9-27 timings so maybe that becomes unstable with F6F. I tried just about everything though, couldn't get my computer stable past 4.5ghz and to do that i had to pull memory speed back to 1866, and set timings to 2t-8-10-8-27.
Click to expand...

wow,

what you just described is my exact problems right now...

I'm having some strange stability that doesn't repeat the same result... By that I mean, it will lock-up (freeze), or flat reboot. No BSOD.

Granted I'm on a thuban, but this chip seems to be VERY finicky.

What has been your experience with the memory timings? I'm trying ~18xx @ 8-9-8-24-41-1 right now... with the rest of the timings set to the bios picked 1866 settings. It seems to be a decent sweet spot, especially when I can close in on 1888 - 1902... Any tips or tricks you've encountered?

I seem to be running up against my NB limit however... trying to keep it in the 3ghz realm with pushing my memory limit is difficult.

Wish I had .5 multi's on the NB clock...


----------



## ebduncan

well granted your on thuban and i am on bulldozer. I cannot give you to much advice on your memory settings. Thuban and Bulldozer have two different memory controllers.

From what i have seen with thuban users, is that you want to keep the northbridge at 3ghz, and your stuck between memory dividers/northbridge. Bulldozer doesn't have this problem as we have extra memory dividers. Then again good luck getting a bulldozer north bridge to 3ghz.

most people i have seen with thuban settle on ddr3 1600 with 1t-7-7-7-21 with quality ram. I'd try for the lowest timing possible at ddr3 1600.


----------



## MadGoat

Hmmm,

Yeah I'm able to gain a lot more performance with 8-9-8 timings in the ~1800 area, as apposed to 7-8-7 in the ~1600...

I am trying to hit the magical 11gbps STABLE mark. It just seems almost impossible...

So Bulldozer's NB wont clock up to 3ghz? About how high can it go?


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Finally trying f6f for the ud3...
> So far I'm noticing voltages are more stable.
> It seems however that its producing more heat with the same OC that I used with f5.
> Anyone else notice this behaviour with f6f?


Use F6C,
F6F doesnt do the voltages you set, On mine Id set 1.44V and it would only do 1.34V had to crank it right up to 1.56V to get 4.5ghz stable where on f6f I could do 1.4v and it was stable.
F6F I couldnt get back to 5ghz no matter what but on F6C all it takes is setting the multiplier and setting the voltage to 1.48v

It will produce more heat because APM wont always be throttling the chip like F5 does.


----------



## Snotty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Hmmm,
> 
> Yeah I'm able to gain a lot more performance with 8-9-8 timings in the ~1800 area, as apposed to 7-8-7 in the ~1600...
> 
> I am trying to hit the magical 11gbps STABLE mark. It just seems almost impossible...
> 
> So Bulldozer's NB wont clock up to 3ghz? About how high can it go?


It'll do 3ghz and higher (There is a water block on the market for ud7 lol ) BUT, having spent too many weeks trying to get high NB & mem speeds stable with BD on ud7 I found 933mhz = very loose timings. 800mhz = reasonable timings (all the 9 etc) with stable system.
mem controller on Thuban is solid but still tough to get tight timings over 800mhz for me when i was on the 1100T but at 800mhz could go 8's.... not so with BD.
NB over 2.6ghz brings some instability for me and isn't worth performance increase on BD. Doesn't matter how much I play with volts and cooling this was best for stability. Want more speed after these NB & mem settings







best you cool & then crank the cpu's to highest speed.
The other factor is just how much power do you want to use for the last little bit of the max o/c. (By the way , set mem to 1.65v min in bios, mine is at 1.7v) . For mine there isn't much performance dif between 4.6ghz & 5ghz on 8150 chip but the power dif is quite a lot & keeps the 5ghz ego in check enough for me to stay at 4.6ghz x8.
We also have to remember that with the FX parts , they are brand new tech & raw ie: first mem controller @ 933mhz whoohoo








From my history, when i got my intel Q6600 was the first batch , then came the GO stepping and it was a much much better overclocker.

Multi tasking with BD is the winner lol. Recording 2 x tv channels whilst formatting a 1.5T RAID 0 set ,with skype , LIVE, facebook, several web pages open whilst playing F1 2011 at the same time . No complaints of lag from other racers online and no impact on my gaming, impressive.

Several hundred blue screens & lockups on startup have got me to here and i have finally got it in my head these points

> more than 5ghz is incredibly hard to get so stop trying, 1000mhz mem on Thuban is a never, 1000mhz mem on BD is unstable & will have to wait next gen chip and bios'.

bit of a ramble but i hope some of it is usefull to someone . cost me 2 cents


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yea, I can remember hearing people talk about a new revision having LLC, I just never heard anything more than people talking about it Thanks.


My 1.1 UD3 has LLC, dont know how to work it though







The higher you set the LLC, the lower the load voltage (less vdroop)? Or how does it work?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Use F6C,
> F6F doesnt do the voltages you set, On mine Id set 1.44V and it would only do 1.34V had to crank it right up to 1.56V to get 4.5ghz stable where on f6f I could do 1.4v and it was stable.
> F6F I couldnt get back to 5ghz no matter what but on F6C all it takes is setting the multiplier and setting the voltage to 1.48v
> It will produce more heat because APM wont always be throttling the chip like F5 does.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snotty*
> 
> It'll do 3ghz and higher (There is a water block on the market for ud7 lol ) BUT, having spent too many weeks trying to get high NB & mem speeds stable with BD on ud7 I found 933mhz = very loose timings. 800mhz = reasonable timings (all the 9 etc) with stable system.
> mem controller on Thuban is solid but still tough to get tight timings over 800mhz for me when i was on the 1100T but at 800mhz could go 8's.... not so with BD.
> NB over 2.6ghz brings some instability for me and isn't worth performance increase on BD. Doesn't matter how much I play with volts and cooling this was best for stability. Want more speed after these NB & mem settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> best you cool & then crank the cpu's to highest speed.
> The other factor is just how much power do you want to use for the last little bit of the max o/c. (By the way , set mem to 1.65v min in bios, mine is at 1.7v) . For mine there isn't much performance dif between 4.6ghz & 5ghz on 8150 chip but the power dif is quite a lot & keeps the 5ghz ego in check enough for me to stay at 4.6ghz x8.
> We also have to remember that with the FX parts , they are brand new tech & raw ie: first mem controller @ 933mhz whoohoo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From my history, when i got my intel Q6600 was the first batch , then came the GO stepping and it was a much much better overclocker.
> 
> Multi tasking with BD is the winner lol. Recording 2 x tv channels whilst formatting a 1.5T RAID 0 set ,with skype , LIVE, facebook, several web pages open whilst playing F1 2011 at the same time . No complaints of lag from other racers online and no impact on my gaming, impressive.
> Several hundred blue screens & lockups on startup have got me to here and i have finally got it in my head these points
> 
> > more than 5ghz is incredibly hard to get so stop trying, 1000mhz mem on Thuban is a never, 1000mhz mem on BD is unstable & will have to wait next gen chip and bios'.
> bit of a ramble but i hope some of it is usefull to someone . cost me 2 cents


Great info guys, thank you...

I do find it difficult to find the right clock for the NB and memory. Like I said before, I wish there were .5 increments available for the NB multi. Would make it much easier to "dial" in that last bit of the OC.

I have learned that my ram doesnt like anything over 1.7v. (above that I begin to loose the ability to tighten timings) ... this requires 1.725 in the bios to maintain 1.7 true volts. Seems the voltage is always .025 off.

I have picked up on a lot of "tips and tricks" here in this forum in particular... thank you guys...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> My 1.1 UD3 has LLC, dont know how to work it though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The higher you set the LLC, the lower the load voltage (less vdroop)? Or how does it work?


As far as I know and have picked up on .... that's pretty much the idea. LLC will further move the true voltage setting out of whack with the bios "setting".. but will minimize the vdroop in doing so.


----------



## johny24

Proud owner of a UD3. I like it, I just couldn't unlock this darned 555. Looks like I'll be upgrading soon!


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snotty*
> 
> It'll do 3ghz and higher
> mem controller on Thuban is solid but still tough to get tight timings over 800mhz for me when i was on the 1100T 1000mhz mem on Thuban is a never,)


?

g.skill flares will do that but they where limited run
I've got a pair that do 2000mhz on my Thuban 1090T with 3.0ghz NB. but they're large sticks 4gbs each, two sticks. 9-10-9-27 $250 not he faster 8-9-8-27 it was $450.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Back to samsung, now I found it sweet spot, it needs 2T for reach more than 2133mhz w/ stability, and i is good with 11-11-11 timmings, I think it was jelaous about the crucial.

Not bad for a $50 2x 4GB Low profile set


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Just some notes:

Bios F6C

- High voltage raise between idle and load states, 8 cores full loaded gives me around 0,04-0,06 increment.

- CnQ not working, Selected voltage in bios is the the as idle voltage

- Vdimm is pretty accurate, if you set 1,60v you will have 1,58v in MB sensor and 1,62V Real voltage.

F6F

- Huge bios/read voltage offset, You need to set around 1,50v to have around 1,42 - 1,45v

- Accurate CPU voltage, difference between loaded and idle voltage are around 0,02-0,04v

- CnQ working

BEWARE!!

- Vdimm seems like old 790FX-ud5 and some Asus board. HUGE Offset now

It still reading lower than what you set, around 0,025v but real voltage now is much higher. it can vary from 0,04V till 0,08V and if you are using the readed voltage for base, that might sums a total of 0,1V difference.

Old 790FX ud5 had a 0,06V difference

So I've placed 1,66V, readed 1,62V and real voltage was 1,73v OMG


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> Just some notes:
> Bios F6C
> - High voltage raise between idle and load states, 8 cores full loaded gives me around 0,04-0,06 increment.
> - CnQ not working, Selected voltage in bios is the the as idle voltage
> - Vdimm is pretty accurate, if you set 1,60v you will have 1,58v in MB sensor and 1,62V Real voltage.
> F6F
> - Huge bios/read voltage offset, You need to set around 1,50v to have around 1,42 - 1,45v
> - Accurate CPU voltage, difference between loaded and idle voltage are around 0,02-0,04v
> - CnQ working
> BEWARE!!
> - Vdimm seems like old 790FX-ud5 and some Asus board. HUGE Offset now
> It still reading lower than what you set, around 0,025v but real voltage now is much higher. it can vary from 0,04V till 0,08V and if you are using the readed voltage for base, that might sums a total of 0,1V difference.
> Old 790FX ud5 had a 0,06V difference
> So I've placed 1,66V, readed 1,62V and real voltage was 1,73v OMG


Great info! thanks for the heads up... I'm currently using F6f now, so this is interesting to know...


----------



## FEAR6655

Just though't I'd ask/add about high default voltage on the GA-990FXA-UD3. For some reason default voltage was set at 1.4750v for my Phenom II X6 1090T, and I was getting torture test temps at 72 degrees Celcius. I eventually decided to start playing with the voltage, and so far I've managed to get my CPU down to 1.264v, 100% torture test stable at stock frequency (3221MHz). This has dropped my torture test temps to 59 degrees Celcius, a massive 13 degree drop! I can drop the temps by a further 3-4 degrees if I sacrifice some noise and open the front door. Anyway, this is probably nothing new, but I just thought I'd share my experience. I'm going to keep lowering it incrementally and see how low it can go.


----------



## MadGoat

strange that you bring that up...

I flashed F6f the other night... and in tweaking the bios again I had forgot to disable turbo core... it kept bsod'ing with my OC and I started hunting around with what I did wrong...

In doing so I found that when turbo core is enabled the "default CPU voltage" at the bottom of the bios clock configuration page says 1.475... the second I disabled it (hence my BSOD's) the default voltage dropped to 1.3 something...

This might be your case...


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## killerbyte

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2238626

Total testing time 1.3 hrs ^^
Adventures with memory 16000* getting it to run properly (1866) Corsair (RED) Vengeance T2 9-10-9-27 DDR3 8gb 4*2
I been failing for a while to get 1866mhz ,been running them at 1600mhz till today ....
Using D.R.A.M profile 1866 = Fail
Setting memory to 1866 =Fail
Overclocking CPU FRQ to 233= Failed.

Once i set the thermal threshold to disable and set my memory timings to manual was I able to set the CPU FRE to 233( worked on bios reboot)
~ for some odd reason my mobo doesn't boot anymore using 1600mhz on auto timing (it didn't before today either) and the manual timings seems to be too high using 1866mhz- its suggested a CL of 11-11-11-34. when i set them to auto and reboot it makes an error an boot to 1333mhz auto timings.
** I tired adjusting the timing to 9-9-9-24 t2 /1864 and my bios crashed. and I had to put in my 4gb ddr3 12800 to make it boot.
~.Anyway the working adjusted pecs are :

Bios F7h
CPU 4077x17.5 (FX 8150)
NB 2563x11
Overdrive- disable but at 4310x13
HT 2097x9
CPU Freq 233
MEM 1864x8.00 / 9-10-9-27 T1
Volts 1.5(auto)
temps 28-30
disable all energy managment (except C1) seemed to crashed a lot with them on
power supply 800 coolermaster silent gold cert
~ I didn't try to push pass 233 , I don't feel the need to right now.

~The temp is about 25' H80 Corsair.Highest bootable and working clock I tried was 4500mhz without cpu frq boost and mem at 1600mhz.
*** Pc is not stable ~ if anything stresses my mem like benchmarks then my pc crashes.Maybe increase volts to 1.65 will work
Right now im just glad to have my mem at 1866 ^^~ I havent played any game so im not sure if its stable in
that area.

***Another odd thing is that a cpu fq at 200hz and mem 1866x9.33 wont boot but 230 1864x8.00 will. I'm not sure how high my mem can go. But it seems that the issue has to do with the mem clock mutiplyer , as you see its the same speed but lower mutl but a higher cpu frq to boot. I guess increasing cpu frq yeilds more in the overclocking realm then just increasing the multiplier...


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Total testing time 1.3 hrs ^^
> Adventures with memory 16000* getting it to run properly (1866) Corsair (RED) Vengeance T2 9-10-9-27 DDR3 8gb 4*2
> I been failing for a while to get 1866mhz ,been running them at 1600mhz till today ....
> Using D.R.A.M profile 1866 = Fail
> Setting memory to 1866 =Fail
> Overclocking CPU FRQ to 233= Failed.
> 
> Once i set the thermal threshold to disable and set my memory timings to manual was I able to set the CPU FRE to 233( worked on bios reboot)
> ~ for some odd reason my mobo doesn't boot anymore using 1600mhz on auto timing (it didn't before today either) and the manual timings seems to be too high using 1866mhz- its suggested a CL of 11-11-11-34. when i set them to auto and reboot it makes an error an boot to 1333mhz auto timings.
> ** I tired adjusting the timing to 9-9-9-24 t2 /1864 and my bios crashed. and I had to put in my 4gb ddr3 12800 to make it boot.
> ~.Anyway the working adjusted pecs are :
> 
> Bios F7h
> CPU 4077x17.5 (FX 8150)
> NB 2563x11
> Overdrive- disable but at 4310x13
> HT 2097x9
> CPU Freq 233
> MEM 1864x8.00 / 9-10-9-27 T1
> Volts 1.5(auto)
> temps 28-30
> disable all energy managment (except C1) seemed to crashed a lot with them on
> power supply 800 coolermaster silent gold cert
> ~ I didn't try to push pass 233 , I don't feel the need to right now.
> 
> ~The temp is about 25' H80 Corsair.Highest bootable and working clock I tried was 4500mhz without cpu frq boost and mem at 1600mhz.
> *** Pc is not stable ~ if anything stresses my mem like benchmarks then my pc crashes.Maybe increase volts to 1.65 will work
> Right now im just glad to have my mem at 1866 ^^~ I havent played any game so im not sure if its stable in
> that area.
> 
> ***Another odd thing is that a cpu fq at 200hz and mem 1866x9.33 wont boot but 230 1864x8.00 will. I'm not sure how high my mem can go. But it seems that the issue has to do with the mem clock mutiplyer , as you see its the same speed but lower mutl but a higher cpu frq to boot. I guess increasing cpu frq yeilds more in the overclocking realm then just increasing the multiplier...
> Edited by killerbyte - Today at 6:22 am


Disable c1e in bios(if you already haven't). Then reduce your northbridge clock down by the next mutipier. Then set your hypertransport to match your northbridge clock. Bump memory voltage in bios to 1.65, set 1866 divider, set timings to 2t 9-10-9-27. Make sure your running in dual channel mode in the case of the gigabyte fxa UDX series boards to be in dual channel the stick are right next to one another instead of the normal 1 space between. IE Slots 0,1=dual channel, and slots 2,3= dual channel.

What are your voltage settings for your north bridge? 4ghz is rather low for a 8150, you have alot more headroom, depending on your cooling.


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Disable c1e in bios(if you already haven't). Then reduce your northbridge clock down by the next mutipier. Then set your hypertransport to match your northbridge clock. Bump memory voltage in bios to 1.65, set 1866 divider, set timings to 2t 9-10-9-27. *Make sure your running in dual channel mode in the case of the gigabyte fxa UDX series boards to be in dual channel the stick are right next to one another instead of the normal 1 space between. IE Slots 0,1=dual channel, and slots 2,3= dual channel.*
> What are your voltage settings for your north bridge? 4ghz is rather low for a 8150, you have alot more headroom, depending on your cooling.


Uh, no?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Uh, no?


correct,

the channels are 1&3 and 2&4

*For dual channel oporation the dimms need to be installed in 1+2 or 3+4...*

If read without knowing the dimm slot layout of the board however, one might suspect the slot layout to be consecutive (1,2,3,4) when they are in fact (4,2,3,1).

Back to killerbyte's issue,

Go ahead and disable "turbo core" as well as the "power saving features".

I don't have any hands on experience with bulldozer, so I am rather limited with my information on clock and voltages for the chip. A recent prior conversation with a follow OCN'er in this thread informed me that the bulldozer NB doesn't clock nearly as well as the PHII's... maybe your NB clock is too high?


----------



## Obfuscator

Has anyone confirmed if Gigabyte revised the GA-990FXA-UD5, or is it still stuck at revision 1.0? I realize that the official website for this board only shows revision 1.x, but I was hoping they slipped a newer revision into the marketplace.


----------



## el gappo

Yeah there is a rev 1.1 for the UD5 too.


----------



## killerbyte

Thanks For the tip on the memory ~ - I've been running them in single channel, because the way the manual states the dimms makes it seems that Dual channel are next to each other ><. maybe thats why i'm having issues , I'm at work now so i'll have to fix later. Also the this site http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/fx-power-consumption-efficiency,review-32307-13.html . is the reason im running the cpu clock at 4ghz , seems the performance isn't that much different and i save on my bill~no to mention here overclocking doesnt help much~http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/amd-fx-8150_14.html#sect0 but here http://techreport.com/articles.x/21813/18 its like overclocking increases performance a lot... I live in Korea so i have to pay for electric unlike my old apartments in Detroit were its free. But like I said I had increased my clock to 4.5mhz and it was stable. though I think a high NB clock is unstable , it would seem to crashes more when higher than 2600mhz. All volts are controlled by the mobo (auto). I think the volts was 1.1** (normal.) for the NB.
also i thought that for mem speeds of 1866 or higher one would had to have 2600mhz on the NB.

Quote:


> Yeah there is a rev 1.1 for the UD5 too.


Where? I checked the site and the only one they have is 1.X aka 1.0?
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#ov

*** HD 7970 1100mhz 6000hz temp on full 60'


----------



## killerbyte

edit~


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> hanks For the tip on the memory ~ - I've been running them in single channel, because the way the manual states the dimms makes it seems that Dual channel are next to each other ><. maybe thats why i'm having issues , I'm at work now so i'll have to fix later. Also the this site http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/fx-power-consumption-efficiency,review-32307-13.html . is the reason im running the cpu clock at 4ghz , seems the performance isn't that much different and i save on my bill~no to mention here overclocking doesnt help much~http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/amd-fx-8150_14.html#sect0 but here http://techreport.com/articles.x/21813/18 its like overclocking increases performance a lot... I live in Korea so i have to pay for electric unlike my old apartments in Detroit were its free. But like I said I had increased my clock to 4.5mhz and it was stable. though I think a high NB clock is unstable , it would seem to crashes more when higher than 2600mhz. All volts are controlled by the mobo (auto). I think the volts was 1.1** (normal.) for the NB.
> also i thought that for mem speeds of 1866 or higher one would had to have 2600mhz on the NB.


the NB will usually cause the system to be unstable over 2.6ghz. There is really no any gains for running it at this speed. It seems to be more important to keep HyperTransport and NB clocks the same from a stability standpoint. One thing i did notice from a higher nb clocks was my memory latency was rather low, but couldn't find any difference in benchmarks. Bulldozer doesn't like high NB clocks for some reason, compared to thuban.


----------



## amorphys

who can help?
800 Wt Power, Ud 7 MB, FX-8120, Corsair dominator DDR 3 1600 (CMP32GX3M4X1600C10) memory

GA-990FXa-ud7(rev 1.0) with AMD FX 8210 cant start and shows F2 error on debug indicator. What should i do? try other AM3 socket proc like Phenom II X6 and update bios? with FX 8210 PCI-e card Fan working, but no image on monitor.
sorry for my bad english


----------



## Obfuscator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> Yeah there is a rev 1.1 for the UD5 too.


Thanks el gappo, I have been considering buying a board in a week or so and I was entertaining buying the GA-990FXA-UD3 instead of the GA-990FXA-UD5 like I originally planned.

On another subject, I just received my Noctua NH-U12P SE2 yesterday. My only concern is if it will be too tall for my old Lian Li case. It looks like it will be close, but I will not really know until everything is installed.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> who can help?
> 800 Wt Power, Ud 7 MB, FX-8120, Corsair dominator DDR 3 1600 (CMP32GX3M4X1600C10) memory
> 
> GA-990FXa-ud7(rev 1.0) with AMD FX 8210 cant start and shows F2 error on debug indicator. What should i do? try other AM3 socket proc like Phenom II X6 and update bios? with FX 8210 PCI-e card Fan working, but no image on monitor.
> sorry for my bad english


after doing a little search f2 means your bios is not compatible with this processor.

You will need to flash your bios to one that supports the am3+ processors. On the ud7 line would be bios version F4 or higher. So yes you will need to swap in another am3/am2+ processor to flash the bios. Or send back to gigabyte and they will do it for you.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> who can help?
> 800 Wt Power, Ud 7 MB, FX-8120, Corsair dominator DDR 3 1600 (CMP32GX3M4X1600C10) memory
> GA-990FXa-ud7(rev 1.0) with AMD FX 8210 cant start and shows F2 error on debug indicator. What should i do? try other AM3 socket proc like Phenom II X6 and update bios? with FX 8210 PCI-e card Fan working, but no image on monitor.
> sorry for my bad english
> 
> 
> 
> after doing a little search f2 means your bios is not compatible with this processor.
> You will need to flash your bios to one that supports the am3+ processors. On the ud7 line would be bios version F4 or higher. So yes you will need to swap in another am3/am2+ processor to flash the bios. Or send back to gigabyte and they will do it for you.
Click to expand...

I've seen this information also but it is not necessarily so. I flashed my UD7 board to F6 with my Phenom II 970 weeks before and when I finally replaced the cpu with a FX-8150 I had the same code as you do. Try reseating all of your RAM, video and make sure your cpu is well seated. I had no success with my FX-8150 until I did all that AND reworked my power distribution. I have the exact same hardware as you do except I am using GSkill rather than Corsair DDR3.


----------



## MadGoat

well,

I have determined that Bios F6f for the ud3, Officially blows like the solar wind...

Back to F5


----------



## ML241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> well,
> I have determined that Bios F6f for the ud3, Officially blows like the solar wind...
> Back to F5


lol good to know.
I got a great deal on a FX-4100. Is the F5 BIOS best with the FX series also?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Just got this in my e-mail from my local Micro Center, its a snip from the E Add.


----------



## itsgucci

I'm the only member of this club that owns a 9990FXA-D3 board







.
Not that its a good thing or w.e, but still.. makes me feel so special


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itsgucci*
> 
> I'm the only member of this club that owns a 9990FXA-D3 board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Not that its a good thing or w.e, but still.. makes me feel so special


-D3 is an awesome board...

Pretty much the same thing as the UD3... with the exceptions being:

4+1 vs 8+2
No Mosfet cooling (easily remedied as it has the pin holes still)
Blue vs. Black

Neither the D3 or UD3 have DrMOS. Which means we don't have a mess with LLC.

TBH, with a Mosfet cooler slapped on it... I think anyone would be hard pressed to know the functional difference between them...


----------



## cmac68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Just got this in my e-mail from my local Micro Center, its a snip from the E Add.


Yea I saw that and got the GA-970A- UD3 for free since I already had a GA-990FXA-UD3. Used the 970 for my 960t build and swapped my 1100t for the FX-8120 in the 990. Took me awhile used to the new FX chip but now that I have a decent overclock it's performing better than my 1100t. Had to swap my ADATA XPG 1600MHz out for some Patriot Viper 1866MHz before I noticed any real difference though.


----------



## MadGoat

Anyone else excited for Vishera?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1213315/tpu-amd-2012-cpu-roadmap-unveils-fx-x300-and-a10-series

This might be the replacement for Phenom II that I've (we all) have waited for.

Personally I'm a bit distraught with the fact that I purchased a 990fx chipset in anticipation of AMD's new architecture, but ended up "upgrading" within the family line I was already currently running (deneb to thuban).

BUT, It seems us 990fxa users might finally end up with a chip that can bring justice to our 990fx chipset after all.

So what's your opinion? How many of you are looking forward to Vishera as a potential upgrade for our 990fxa boards?

Side note: I suffer added anticipation for a bios that can do right by us as well...


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ML241*
> 
> lol good to know.
> I got a great deal on a FX-4100. Is the F5 BIOS best with the FX series also?


F6C is the best for UD3 and FX chips.
F5 is best for Phenom 2 chips.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> F6C is the best for UD3 and FX chips.
> F5 is best for Phenom 2 chips.


I'll second the f5 for Phenom II chips. It has ran my AMD rig at 4.0/2800 perfectly stable for many moons now.


----------



## bmgjet

Does any one else have this bug in CPU-Z On there gigabyte board.
It will read the NB speed as the same a the RAM speed.

NB is set on 2500mhz ram at 1000mhz (2ghz) so NB says 1000mhz.
If I drop the ram down to 1866 then the NB says 933mhz

CPU-Z and programs that use CPU-Z's detection all pick it up as this.
AIDA64, Passmark, AOD, ET6 pick it up as the correct speed of 2500mhz.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Does any one else have this bug in CPU-Z On there gigabyte board.
> It will read the NB speed as the same a the RAM speed.
> NB is set on 2500mhz ram at 1000mhz (2ghz) so NB says 1000mhz.
> If I drop the ram down to 1866 then the NB says 933mhz
> CPU-Z and programs that use CPU-Z's detection all pick it up as this.
> AIDA64, Passmark, AOD, ET6 pick it up as the correct speed of 2500mhz.


This is with a BD chip yes? Never had this problem on my Phenom II


----------



## bmgjet

Yup with a 8120, It doesnt do it with my 1090T in the board tho and my 8120 chip doesn't do it in my mates Asus board.
Does it with all bios versions on my UD3.

Have sent a email to CPU-Z's devs and will see what they have to say about it.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Yup with a 8120, It doesnt do it with my 1090T in the board tho and my 8120 chip doesn't do it in my mates Asus board.
> Does it with all bios versions on my UD3.
> Have sent a email to CPU-Z's devs and will see what they have to say about it.


Weird.


----------



## ragtag7

I want to be in this club!


----------



## Wild Wally

Need some help folks.

This weekend I decided to really get my rig tuned up but I'm hitting a wall right now.

My current OC is FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz on a GA-990FXA-UD7 using F8a.

I was following the OC Guide For Bulldozer but can't get past prime95 which won't run even with my stock timings

Had some RAM issues but I reduced my size down to 2 sticks of 4 GB GSkill PC14900 CL9 Snipers running @ 1333, 8 8 8 24 and now memtest-86 runs with no errors but I still can't get prime95 to run at all and 3DMark crashes. These settings seem stable enough but I don't want to go further until I can be stable under prime95.

Thoughts? The RAM sticks are in the two slots furthest from the CPU. Is there a better arrangement? Is there a better BIOS than 8a for my setup? Do I need more voltage? Right now I've got the CPU at 1.475v in BIOS although CPU-Z says 1.375v.

Maybe I need a primer for prime95...been on the PC scene for a long time but I'm just getting into serious OCing so I'm not really a noob but could use some general help as well.

Thanks in advance,

WW


----------



## zJACKRABBIT

my ud3 didn't set my ram timing, it's a rev.1.1 and corsair vengeance 4x4gb 1600. and these f6f bios are only showing 4 cores? but it works on portal 2. the f5 shows 8 core. but portal 2 crashes with it


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Need some help folks.
> 
> This weekend I decided to really get my rig tuned up but I'm hitting a wall right now.
> 
> My current OC is FX-8150 @ 4.6 GHz on a GA-990FXA-UD7 using F8a.
> 
> I was following the OC Guide For Bulldozer but can't get past prime95 which won't run even with my stock timings
> 
> Had some RAM issues but I reduced my size down to 2 sticks of 4 GB GSkill PC14900 CL9 Snipers running @ 1333, 8 8 8 24 and now memtest-86 runs with no errors but I still can't get prime95 to run at all and 3DMark crashes. These settings seem stable enough but I don't want to go further until I can be stable under prime95.
> 
> Thoughts? The RAM sticks are in the two slots furthest from the CPU. Is there a better arrangement? Is there a better BIOS than 8a for my setup? Do I need more voltage? Right now I've got the CPU at 1.475v in BIOS although CPU-Z says 1.375v.
> 
> Maybe I need a primer for prime95...been on the PC scene for a long time but I'm just getting into serious OCing so I'm not really a noob but could use some general help as well.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> WW


Your experiencing v-drop. This is normal on the ud5-ud7 since they use the digital power. You will need to set your voltage in bios higher so your vcore doesn't drop and cause your system to be unstable under load. For your memory, well i have no idea, did you turn off c1e? you in ganged or unganged? your memory should be in the slots closest to the cpu if possible (some cpu coolers interfere) Make sure to look at the board, and the manual to make sure your ram is installed in dual channel mode (its a bit different on the ud3-ud7 series than most boards).


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Your experiencing v-drop. This is normal on the ud5-ud7 since they use the digital power. You will need to set your voltage in bios higher so your vcore doesn't drop and cause your system to be unstable under load. For your memory, well i have no idea, did you turn off c1e? you in ganged or unganged? your memory should be in the slots closest to the cpu if possible (some cpu coolers interfere) Make sure to look at the board, and the manual to make sure your ram is installed in dual channel mode (its a bit different on the ud3-ud7 series than most boards).


OK, I'll add some more voltage to my cpu. All the normal things are turned off including C1E.

The RAM is indeed in dual channel mode in slots #2 and #4 according to CPU-Z. I'll see if moving those around help with the RAM issues. These are part of a matched set. I always use unganged mode.

Seems strange not to be able to run prime95 even in stock mode but perhaps the vdroop is so severe it becomes unstable. I have all the gear I need for soldering so I might just implement the vdroop hardware fix unless the general opinion is doing so would be a bad idea.

Thanks for the quick reply,









WW


----------



## ebduncan

"The RAM is indeed in dual channel mode in slots #2 and #4 according to CPU-Z. I'll see if moving those around help with the RAM issues. These are part of a matched set. I always use unganged mode."

This the memory slot layout on the UD3 CPU socket>> Slot 4, slot 2, slot 3, slot 1.

To top this off gigabyte installed all Black slots, so there is no way to tell by color which slots are for each channel. i suggest you look at the manual to confirm your in the correct configuration for your ram.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> "The RAM is indeed in dual channel mode in slots #2 and #4 according to CPU-Z. I'll see if moving those around help with the RAM issues. These are part of a matched set. I always use unganged mode."
> This the memory slot layout on the UD3 CPU socket>> Slot 4, slot 2, slot 3, slot 1.
> To top this off gigabyte installed all Black slots, so there is no way to tell by color which slots are for each channel. i suggest you look at the manual to confirm your in the correct configuration for your ram.


On the UD7 it is cpu socket> 4 2 3 1. Channel 0 is 2, 4 and channel 1 is 1, 3..

I too appreciate the color scheme used by other manufacturers. It makes it harder to screw up









WW


----------



## frostedflakes

Not sure if it's a pricing mistake or what, but noticed that the GA-990FXA-UD5 is currently $145 after a $20 MIR on NewEgg. Pretty good price for this motherboard IMO if anyone's been considering buying it. For comparison the UD3 sells for $163 shipped on NewEgg.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frostedflakes*
> 
> Not sure if it's a pricing mistake or what, but noticed that the GA-990FXA-UD5 is currently $145 after a $20 MIR on NewEgg. Pretty good price for this motherboard IMO if anyone's been considering buying it. For comparison the UD3 sells for $163 shipped on NewEgg.


The vdroop issues have been getting a lot of coverage here and elsewhere. Maybe the UD3 is in shorter supply than the UD5 now?

WW


----------



## TitusPrime

Well, my UD3 has finally given up and blown some VRM.

The cooling on the VRM is just inadequate for FX8xxx overclocking and sustained use.....especially on a board that 'looks' like it's over-volting iteslf under load.

If you compare the UD3 to either the Sabertooth or Crosshair then you will see just how inadequate it is. I don't think the UD5 or UD7 heatsinks look chunky enough either for how much current the boards can supply to the CPU.

It's such a pity because the slot layout of the UD3 is the best out of all the boards but i've moved that down the priority list now.

If GloFo fix their 32nm process then Piledriver might be ok but Gigabyte have scrimped a bit too far on this series.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> The cooling on the VRM is just inadequate for FX8xxx overclocking and sustained use.....especially on a board that 'looks' like it's over-volting iteslf under load.
> 
> If you compare the UD3 to either the Sabertooth or Crosshair then you will see just how inadequate it is. I don't think the UD5 or UD7 heatsinks look chunky enough either for how much current the boards can supply to the CPU.
> 
> It's such a pity because the slot layout of the UD3 is the best out of all the boards but i've moved that down the priority list now.
> 
> If GloFo fix their 32nm process then Piledriver might be ok but Gigabyte have scrimped a bit too far on this series.


the cooling is just fine. Either way if your concerned about it nothing a small fan cannot fix.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Anyone have tryed the pencil mod on the UD7 transistor?!


----------



## frostedflakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> The vdroop issues have been getting a lot of coverage here and elsewhere. Maybe the UD3 is in shorter supply than the UD5 now?
> WW


I think the rev 1.1 of the UD5 added load line calibration to fix the vdroop, so that shouldn't be an issue anymore (or at least not nearly as much of an issue as it was with the old 1.0 boards).


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> Anyone have tryed the pencil mod on the UD7 transistor?!


No. How does one go about doing this? Which resistor?

WW


----------



## TitusPrime

[/QUOTE]
the cooling is just fine. Either way if your concerned about it nothing a small fan cannot fix.[/quote]

My blown VRM suggest the cooling is not fine. Even looking at the size of the heatsink suggests it's not fine. Gigabyte have scrimped this round pure and simple.

Adding a fan is masking the problem and is not something i expect to have to do on something that has been 'engineered' to cope on it's own.

We'll see how the Sabertooth i now have get's on under the same conditions.

I've had 7 GB boards over the last 4 years and this is the first one that's disappointed and it's been a disappointment from the start. Except for the slot layout the GB boards seem to be inferior to the Asus boards in every way this round. Quality, features, bios, support......all worse and i've not been an Asus fan for a while as they always seem to have some good ideas but have one or two glaring flaws on every board. I have had all the top models physically in my hands to compare and it's night and day.

The multiple revisions of all the models show that they weren't fully focussed on what they were doing from the start. Poor engineering decisions, cost-cutting/budget decisions or lack of knowledge/foresight.....i really don't know which it was...probably a mix of all three.

I'll bow out and leave you guys in this thread with your marginal equipment.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> My blown VRM suggest the cooling is not fine. Even looking at the size of the heatsink suggests it's not fine. Gigabyte have scrimped this round pure and simple.
> Adding a fan is masking the problem and is not something i expect to have to do on something that has been 'engineered' to cope on it's own.
> We'll see how the Sabertooth i now have get's on under the same conditions.
> I've had 7 GB boards over the last 4 years and this is the first one that's disappointed and it's been a disappointment from the start. Except for the slot layout the GB boards seem to be inferior to the Asus boards in every way this round. Quality, features, bios, support......all worse and i've not been an Asus fan for a while as they always seem to have some good ideas but have one or two glaring flaws on every board. I have had all the top models physically in my hands to compare and it's night and day.
> The multiple revisions of all the models show that they weren't fully focussed on what they were doing from the start. Poor engineering decisions, cost-cutting/budget decisions or lack of knowledge/foresight.....i really don't know which it was...probably a mix of all three.
> *I'll bow out and leave you guys in this thread with your marginal equipment*.


Best of luck?

This "marginal" equipment is working fine still. I changed cooler's from the silver arrow to a CM 212+ and had to drop my clock's and voltage a tad, but its still sitting happy at 3.8/2600 NB just fine. Such a shame 2-3 people have a board crap out and they freak over it.


----------



## tuso

Hi all,

Here new member GA-990FXA-UD3 v1.2 ( Bios FA stock.) I hope to share knowledge with you.

In my bios appear LLC parameter, in a reply Gigabyte mail ..... say me

".....we have enabled "Load Line Control" BIOS item in "Advanced BIOS Features" of GA-990FXA-UD3(rev. 1.2) to solve Vdroop issue. "


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> Hi all,
> Here new member GA-990FXA-UD3 v1.2 ( Bios FA stock.) I hope to share knowledge with you.
> In my bios appear LLC parameter, in a reply Gigabyte mail ..... say me
> ".....we have enabled "Load Line Control" BIOS item in "Advanced BIOS Features" of GA-990FXA-UD3(rev. 1.2) to solve Vdroop issue. "


not bad.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## kzone75

Well, this "marginal equipment" I have seems to be working fine. But it would be nice to know what settings TitusPrime was using. I am @ 4.5GHz now with 1.408v under load. 1.424v when idling. And I am still very happy with this mobo.







Would buy another one if I had to.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Well, this "marginal equipment" I have seems to be working fine. But it would be nice to know what settings TitusPrime was using. I am @ 4.5GHz now with 1.408v under load. 1.424v when idling. And I am still very happy with this mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would buy another one if I had to.


Yea, on my 955 I'm running 1.450Vcore (1.440v after droop) and have had no problem's thus far. Been running that voltage for a few weeks, was higher for a long time, 24/7 usage and lots of prime.. I would like to know what voltage's he was running, and what his case flow is... ambient temps would be nice too.


----------



## tuso

Sorry for my english.

Well, I started to configure my system. with fails

1) Issue Samsung HD502HJ.

I have 2 hard drivers HD502HJ, one of them is not recognized by UD3. Only run when plug and unplug the drive power.

In past post I saw the solution by Samsung: "Samsung F3 and F3EG Firmware Patch/Update [223631]"

http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/selfservice/search.jsp?DocId=223631&NewLang=en&Hilite=


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## tuso

In my case appear the same symptoms. in the drive sound like a crash and not appear in Bios.

I have 2 HD502HJ diferents Firmware version:

1- HD502HJ ---> 1AJ10001 ( This run FINE)








2- HD502HJ ---> 1AJ100E4 ( FAILED)









The patch update the firmware of HD502HJ drive. Today I will try to update. Here more information:
http://support.asus.com/Search/KDetail.aspx?SLanguage=en&no=9EDC75DC-7864-541B-2CC4-B6A07951198D&t=2
http://www.jack-brennan.com/samsung-firmware-update-for-p67-and-sb850/

I will update with the oficial samsung instructions :
http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/selfservice/search.jsp?DocId=223631&NewLang=en&Hilite=


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> In my case appear the same symptoms. in the drive sound like a crash and not appear in Bios.
> I have 2 HD502HJ diferents Firmware version:
> 1- HD502HJ ---> 1AJ10001 ( This run FINE)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2- HD502HJ ---> 1AJ100E4 ( FAILED)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The patch update the firmware of HD502HJ drive. Today I will try to update. Here more information:
> http://support.asus.com/Search/KDetail.aspx?SLanguage=en&no=9EDC75DC-7864-541B-2CC4-B6A07951198D&t=2
> http://www.jack-brennan.com/samsung-firmware-update-for-p67-and-sb850/
> I will update with the oficial samsung instructions :
> http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/selfservice/search.jsp?DocId=223631&NewLang=en&Hilite=


The SB890 and SB990 are essentially the same. I would think the fix would work.

WW


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> [My blown VRM suggest the cooling is not fine. Even looking at the size of the heatsink suggests it's not fine. Gigabyte have scrimped this round pure and simple.[/B]


the cooling is fine lol. Remember motherboards are made to support the cpu at its factory settings.Overclocking stress's parts to the point of failure. ANY overclocker knows that heat is the enemy, and must take additional steps to ensure parts are getting good air flow/water to ensure proper cooling. I've been running a overclocked FX cpu in my ud3 for well over a month now, with no issues. My cpu never goes over 55c, my northbridge stays below 65c.

you had a faulty board, or you pushed it to far than what your cooling could handle.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> [My blown VRM suggest the cooling is not fine. Even looking at the size of the heatsink suggests it's not fine. Gigabyte have scrimped this round pure and simple.[/B]
> 
> 
> 
> the cooling is fine lol. Remember motherboards are made to support the cpu at its factory settings.Overclocking stress's parts to the point of failure. ANY overclocker knows that heat is the enemy, and must take additional steps to ensure parts are getting good air flow/water to ensure proper cooling. I've been running a overclocked FX cpu in my ud3 for well over a month now, with no issues. My cpu never goes over 55c, my northbridge stays below 65c.
> you had a faulty board, or you pushed it to far than what your cooling could handle.
Click to expand...

+1


----------



## Obfuscator

I just wanted to make a quick update. I had ordered and received from Newegg a GA-990FXA-UD5. The revision that I received was 1.1. Unfortunately I will not have the time to install it for a couple of days.


----------



## tuso

....


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> The SB890 and SB990 are essentially the same. I would think the fix would work.
> WW










Solved.

The update was sucessfully. The new firmware is 1AJ100E5.

2- HD502HJ ---> 1AJ100E4 (FAILED)

>Update---> 1AJ100E5 ( FINE)









See the oficial link:
http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/selfservice/search.jsp?DocId=223631&NewLang=en&Hilite=

My procedure:

1.- I Make USB disk *bootable*.
2.- I Copied the file F3.exe to USB disk. ( donwload the file patch according your drive.)
4.- I removed all disk, DVD, USB of system.
5. I Put H502HJ drive in the first SATA ( Sata *0* ).
6 . I entered in Bios, and put SATA in mode *IDE.*. Save and Exit.
7.- If you turn ON the system, the HD502HJ do not appear. Solution: Plug and unplug the wire power of HD502hj, and you will hear turn on the HD502HJ.
8.- Put the USB disk bootable in port USB2.
9.- Push the reset botton.
10. Boot with USB disk bootable, push F12 botton.
11.- Choose boot USB-HD.
12. When appear promtp, execute the file F3.exe in my case.(HD502Hj).
13. Wait......
14...Wait...
15. - Important: when say finish sucessfully and appear *prompt again*. ( c:/). quit USB bootable.
16. Turn OFF the system. (do not reset or ctrl + alt +supr).

17. Wait 5 minutes and Turn ON system. You can see the HD502Hj with the new firmware.


----------



## ML241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> I'll bow out and leave you guys in this thread with your marginal equipment.


Really? What is the point of this? I would say you should act your age however it would seem you already are.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ML241*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> I'll bow out and leave you guys in this thread with your marginal equipment.
> 
> 
> 
> Really? What is the point of this? I would say you should act your age however it would seem you already are.
Click to expand...

"Knowledge is no guarantee of good behavior, but ignorance is a virtual guarantee of bad behavior"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Solved.
> The update was sucessfully. The new firmware is 1AJ100E5.
> 2- HD502HJ ---> 1AJ100E4 (FAILED)
> 
> >Update---> 1AJ100E5 ( FINE)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See the oficial link:
> http://seagate.custkb.com/seagate/crm/selfservice/search.jsp?DocId=223631&NewLang=en&Hilite=
> My procedure:
> 1.- I Make USB disk *bootable*.
> 2.- I Copied the file F3.exe to USB disk. ( donwload the file patch according your drive.)
> 4.- I removed all disk, DVD, USB of system.
> 5. I Put H502HJ drive in the first SATA ( Sata *0* ).
> 6 . I entered in Bios, and put SATA in mode *IDE.*. Save and Exit.
> 7.- If you turn ON the system, the HD502HJ do not appear. Solution: Plug and unplug the wire power of HD502hj, and you will hear turn on the HD502HJ.
> 8.- Put the USB disk bootable in port USB2.
> 9.- Push the reset botton.
> 10. Boot with USB disk bootable, push F12 botton.
> 11.- Choose boot USB-HD.
> 12. When appear promtp, execute the file F3.exe in my case.(HD502Hj).
> 13. Wait......
> 14...Wait...
> 15. - Important: when say finish sucessfully and appear *prompt again*. ( c:/). quit USB bootable.
> 16. Turn OFF the system. (do not reset or ctrl + alt +supr).
> 17. Wait 5 minutes and Turn ON system. You can see the HD502Hj with the new firmware.


I'm glad you got it figured out. I and a couple others had gone through the same issues earlier. The new drive firmware did solve our issues as well.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## tuso

Today, I starting to overclock.. I stop at 4000mhz because I see one temperature high.

Finally,please, which is this temperature? TMPIN2 : 66º C


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> Today, I starting to overclock.. I stop at 4000mhz because I see one temperature high.
> Finally,please, which is this temperature? TMPIN2 : 66º C


That is the NorthBridge. the first one is the CPU socket, the middle temp is the "system" temp, not sure what Gigabyte means by "system"


----------



## tuso

KhaoticKomputing , thanks.

I think is high, perhaps, I will quit NorthBridge a put new paste thermal.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> KhaoticKomputing , thanks.
> I think is high, perhaps, I will quit NorthBridge a put new paste thermal.


According to gigabyte the NB is safe up to 80-85c I wouldn't panic over it. If you want to lower the them you can turn the PC off and push down on the NB heatsink firmly to get a little bit better of a seat. You can also replace the TIM or perform the washer trick to get some more perssure from the NB heatsink. IMO I wouldn't bother unless you start to hit the mid 70's.


----------



## LesPaulLover

Kind of a ****ty pic....it's a UD3 though.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LesPaulLover*
> 
> Kind of a ****ty pic....it's a UD3 though.


Very nice setup. I wouldn't apolagize for the pic. We can all clearly see you have the UD3 installed in that rig. Out side of some crazy cable's I think you got a spiffy build there man.


----------



## LesPaulLover

LOL.

Well first of all I absolutely love this board. Like you said, it looks great. And performs really well too. When Skyrim first came out I was running my 1100T as a quad core @ 4.5ghz. Ran the rig like this for 60 hours of Skyrim playtime so far, not including all the time I spent playing around with other games like that.

All those stray cables are going to my fans ... was too lazy to unclip em.

Need a new case unfortunately I've been too lazy to buy one and move everything over. This case has poor airflow and to OC I need: push/pull fans on the radiator (2) sucking air IN from the outside. A fan above them on the top of the case, sucking the air from the radiator out the top of the case, and 2 fans on the side of the case sucking air in.

Though even OCing at 3.9ghz right now I'm able to leave both CPU and system smart fan control on and it works really well. Almost silent til gaming time and even then it only ramps my fans up to 1900rpms if I'm playing something like BF3.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LesPaulLover*
> 
> LOL.
> Well first of all I absolutely love this board. Like you said, it looks great. And performs really well too. When Skyrim first came out I was running my 1100T as a quad core @ 4.5ghz. Ran the rig like this for 60 hours of Skyrim playtime so far, not including all the time I spent playing around with other games like that.
> All those stray cables are going to my fans ... was too lazy to unclip em.
> Need a new case unfortunately I've been too lazy to buy one and move everything over. This case has poor airflow and to OC I need: push/pull fans on the radiator (2) sucking air IN from the outside. A fan above them on the top of the case, sucking the air from the radiator out the top of the case, and 2 fans on the side of the case sucking air in.
> Though even OCing at 3.9ghz right now I'm able to leave both CPU and system smart fan control on and it works really well. Almost silent til gaming time and even then it only ramps my fans up to 1900rpms if I'm playing something like BF3.


Great to hear your having good results with the board. I rave about my UD3. It has been a total treat to work with. Such a shame that BD had to have such low performance to power usage ratio, Would be nice to have the UD3 in my main rig, I think it looks much better than my current ASUS mobo.

How well dose your set up play BF3? I'm going to finish up my main rig and cannot decide what GPU set up I want.

EDIT: I also use that same PSU.....holy freaking cable's batman.... The back side of my case was off for almost a month with all the wires just hanging out. I had no clue where to put them all in my case lol. ended up putting the HDD cage back in so I could use it to hid all the extra cables lol.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Crucial 2x 4GB


----------



## LesPaulLover

I have 2x EVGA GTX 560 (NON-Ti) 2GB models.

They work really well for what they cost me back in August (they were on sale) and I can run almost any game maxed WITH 3D Vision on and have 50+ FPS

Yea it sucks about BD. Took a risk going AMD when I built and lost out I guess.

Oh well...maybe in the next couple years we'll see better multi-core scaling in games. But regardless my 1100T does **NOT** bottleneck my SLI gpus as many would say. Just last night was playing Skyrim (for the first time in about 2 months) as a 6core @ only 3.75ghz and was getting 99% usage on both GPUs.

They were factory overclocked to 850/1700/2004. I can further OC them to 915/1850/2054 and be 100% stable, and it increases my FPS by about 5-10 in basically all demanding games


----------



## LesPaulLover

Though Crysis 2 maxed, with 3D vision enabled, running DX11 brings me down to about 40 FPS in some places.

Luckily that game is trash anyways!


----------



## steamboat

any ideas on how to get the ud7 to boot from a .img usb?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> Crucial 2x 4GB


holy GB/sec! What is your voltage? that is crazy at CL9...

That is nice!


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

1,72v


----------



## aRkangeLPT

This afternoon I have mouted my UD7 with air cooling to get some OC hotspots and make some tests and after this i mounted it on my case with the full wc and it dont go into windows or Bios it makes the post and after this get 89 on the debug led error, and i dont know what to do!


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> According to gigabyte the NB is safe up to 80-85c I wouldn't panic over it. If you want to lower the them you can turn the PC off and push down on the NB heatsink firmly to get a little bit better of a seat. You can also replace the TIM or perform the washer trick to get some more perssure from the NB heatsink. IMO I wouldn't bother unless you start to hit the mid 70's.


Amazing 80-85ºC, thanks for the information.


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> This afternoon I have mouted my UD7 with air cooling to get some OC hotspots and make some tests and after this i mounted it on my case with the full wc and it dont go into windows or Bios it makes the post and after this get 89 on the debug led error, and i dont know what to do!


Reset CMOS, and try again.


----------



## WalCs

Hey guys, I got a 990FXA-UD3 rev 1.0 and I'm using a PII 955, just wanna ask what version of BIOS I should be updating? I'm currently on F4, would updating the BIOS to F5 or F6f give me any benefits?

Thanks!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalCs*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a 990FXA-UD3 rev 1.0 and I'm using a PII 955, just wanna ask what version of BIOS I should be updating? I'm currently on F4, would updating the BIOS to F5 or F6f give me any benefits?
> Thanks!


From my understanding F5 is the BIOS for a Phenom II chip, if your running an FX the F6 BIOS is better. I run the F5 and have not had a problem with it.


----------



## WalCs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> From my understanding F5 is the BIOS for a Phenom II chip, if your running an FX the F6 BIOS is better. I run the F5 and have not had a problem with it.


Thanks for the quick reply, I guess I'll go flash this sucker right now!


----------



## Ahzanti

Well I got my S'Jet Systems up and running. For the parts please look at my rig at the bottom of this post. My current speeds and temps are

CPU: 4.8Ghz
Bus speed: 200Mhz
Multiplier: 24

GPU: 900Mhz
Memory Clock: 1305Mhz

I have the Raza RX240 with stock fans only cooling the FX-8150. I am seeing temps of 60 - 65C under prime 95, dose this sound right or with in reason? My house is at 80F just for reference. Also When I ran prime 95 after 10min, some times 6, the water temp would be 60C or over and my computer would shut down with no reason. I played Supreme Commander FA 8 adaptive bots no human and played Quake 4 for about 1 hour 30 min no shut down. Any ideas. Even now I have been on S'jet Systems for 2 hours running graphics benches no shut down. Thanks in advance.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> Reset CMOS, and try again.


I have already do this, the mobo doesnt enter into the bios or anything else.


----------



## stasio

*GA-990FXA-UD7 - F8f*


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> I have already do this, the mobo doesnt enter into the bios or anything else.










very strange if the mobo is fine.

Check the power wires. Are there lights ( Hdd, Power ) ? Try to quit VGA or Memory and turn on.. Mobo must sound several bips..


----------



## tuso

Well, now I try to overclock the memory.

1333 8-8-8-24 2t 1,5v ----> FINE.

I have a problem, I want to increase NB frecuency =2400Mhz, Which parameter ?

NB voltage or CPU-NB voltage ?? 1.20v or 1,25 v ?


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> Well I got my S'Jet Systems up and running. For the parts please look at my rig at the bottom of this post. My current speeds and temps are
> CPU: 4.8Ghz
> Bus speed: 200Mhz
> Multiplier: 24
> GPU: 900Mhz
> Memory Clock: 1305Mhz
> I have the Raza RX240 with stock fans only cooling the FX-8150. I am seeing temps of 60 - 65C under prime 95, dose this sound right or with in reason? My house is at 80F just for reference. Also When I ran prime 95 after 10min, some times 6, the water temp would be 60C or over and my computer would shut down with no reason. I played Supreme Commander FA 8 adaptive bots no human and played Quake 4 for about 1 hour 30 min no shut down. Any ideas. Even now I have been on S'jet Systems for 2 hours running graphics benches no shut down. Thanks in advance.


Rosewill PSU might be your problem. I had weird problems for almost a year with random reboots and shutdowns with Rosewill, Cooler Master, and Rocketfish PSUs. You might want to go with a higher quality PSU for those clocks. May also be that your mobo's voltage droop. This is a common problem with these boards.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very strange if the mobo is fine.
> Check the power wires. Are there lights ( Hdd, Power ) ? Try to quit VGA or Memory and turn on.. Mobo must sound several bips..


Sounds like you may have loosened something. Try reseating the CPU, RAM and graphics card.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

I have resetd all things and try to make boot in so many ways but the mobo dont go beyond the logo screen... some times stop on 75 others on 89 on the post i will send it next week for RMA.


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> I have resetd all things and try to make boot in so many ways but the mobo dont go beyond the logo screen... some times stop on 75 others on 89 on the post i will send it next week for RMA.


If you want, try last test. Quit VGA, memory, disc, DVD. all wires. Put only processor and heatsink,
connect power wired and turn ON. Do you hear sounds? Any Beep ?

http://pcsupport.about.com/od/fixtheproblem/tp/award-beep-codes.htm

connect your memory,VGA...etc... depending of beep sound

good lucky

Note: if you have 2 memory modules, put only one... and change..perhaps one of them is broken.


----------



## LesPaulLover

You know, with the @BIOS program you can flash your BIOS right from windows on Gigabyte boards?

It's worked flawlessy for me so far. Updated from F1 ---> F5 1 step at a time with 0 problems


----------



## LesPaulLover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Rosewill PSU might be your problem. I had weird problems for almost a year with random reboots and shutdowns with Rosewill, Cooler Master, and Rocketfish PSUs. You might want to go with a higher quality PSU for those clocks. May also be that your mobo's voltage droop. This is a common problem with these boards.


Anything and everything "RocketFish" brand I've ever bought has been absolutely terrible. From wireless keyboards and mice to case fans -- literally **NONE** of them even worked out of the box.


----------



## will1211

Hi guys

I am currently using 990FXA-UD7 with 1100T
but i don't know how to oc my 1100T to 4.0 stable......(i did oc to [email protected] b4)

i have oc many 1366 and 775 CPU before,
but i have bo idea in oc AMD chip,
can someone give me some basic parameter??


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *will1211*
> 
> Hi guys
> I am currently using 990FXA-UD7 with 1100T
> but i don't know how to oc my 1100T to 4.0 stable......(i did oc to [email protected] b4)
> i have oc many 1366 and 775 CPU before,
> but i have bo idea in oc AMD chip,
> can someone give me some basic parameter??


Yea, the main settings are going to be your Vcore, your multi, and your CPU/NB. I would start setting your vcore to somthing like 1.40v, and change your CPU/NB voltage to somthing like 1.25v-1.30v. next step is to raise your CPU/NB freq up, not the NB but the CPU/NB. you want to start around 2600. if its stable you can jump to 2800. for you CPU, use the multi and set it to 3.8Ghz and then its time to check temps and run prime95/IBT to check heat and minor stability. if your temps are under 55c per core then you can bump your CPU/NB freq to 2800 and your CPU to 4.0Ghz. and your done. pending on your CPU cooler and case flow you might be able to hit 4.1-4.2

Overclocking the CPU/NB will help you with stability alot, and give a nice performance boost. CPU/NB overclocking is great!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> Well, now I try to overclock the memory.
> 1333 8-8-8-24 2t 1,5v ----> FINE.
> I have a problem, I want to increase NB frecuency =2400Mhz, Which parameter ?
> NB voltage or CPU-NB voltage ?? 1.20v or 1,25 v ?


For overclocking your NB to 2400 your going to want to change the CPU-NB settings, not the NB settings. the voltage is the exact same limits as your chip, so try to keep it under 1.45v-1.47v if you can. also don't even bother with only 2400. Set the voltage to 1.30v and crank it to 2600. if that is stable them jump it to 2800 and your good. After that there is little performance to be had.

Keep in mind adding voltage and overclocking the CPU-NB will add heat to you CPU core temps. so watch them closely and enjoy.


----------



## will1211

thanks mate,, i will try it,


----------



## tuso

KhaoticKomputing, thanks, I will try too.


----------



## a11an

What's the best BIOS for UD5? Need to get rid of cpu throttling.

EDIT: Already got it working with the latest BIOS.


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yea, the main settings are going to be your Vcore, your multi, and your CPU/NB. I would start setting your vcore to somthing like 1.40v, and change your CPU/NB voltage to somthing like 1.25v-1.30v. next step is to raise your CPU/NB freq up, not the NB but the CPU/NB. you want to start around 2600. if its stable you can jump to 2800. for you CPU, use the multi and set it to 3.8Ghz and then its time to check temps and run prime95/IBT to check heat and minor stability. if your temps are under 55c per core then you can bump your CPU/NB freq to 2800 and your CPU to 4.0Ghz. and your done. pending on your CPU cooler and case flow you might be able to hit 4.1-4.2
> Overclocking the CPU/NB will help you with stability alot, and give a nice performance boost. CPU/NB overclocking is great!
> For overclocking your NB to 2400 your going to want to change the CPU-NB settings, not the NB settings. the voltage is the exact same limits as your chip, so try to keep it under 1.45v-1.47v if you can. also don't even bother with only 2400. Set the voltage to 1.30v and crank it to 2600. if that is stable them jump it to 2800 and your good. After that there is little performance to be had.
> Keep in mind adding voltage and overclocking the CPU-NB will add heat to you CPU core temps. so watch them closely and enjoy.


I will change :

NB: 2600mhz
CPU NB voltage : 1.30 v








Now running sucessfully.

But ocurred something strange. When "save" in bios the new configuration. The system "Power off" and "Power on" but not started.







, The system was Turn ON with the HDD lights ON but not started. Then, quit the the Power wired and wait two minutes, I put the Power Wired and and Turn ON and the system started sucessfully. ??


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> I will change :
> NB: 2600mhz
> CPU NB voltage : 1.30 v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now running sucessfully.
> But ocurred something strange. When "save" in bios the new configuration. The system "Power off" and "Power on" but not started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , The system was Turn ON with the HDD lights ON but not started. Then, quit the the Power wired and wait two minutes, I put the Power Wired and and Turn ON and the system started sucessfully. ??


Boot loop! try some different voltage settings and freq's on the NB. if the system locks up and won't go in to BIO just reset the CMOS and try again. You might need to get the NB up to the 2800 side of things, past 2800 CPU/NB your getting into benchmark territory. You won't feel a log of performance gain unless your benching.

Mind you this CPU/NB setting is going to rise the heat of the CPU chip so keep tabs on the temps you might also need as much as 1.35-137v on the CPU/NB. Its still totaly safe voltage as long as your cooler can cope. I have noticed stability becomes an issue with the 955 at around 52c+ when really pushing. If not bench marking keep your OC to the 4.0Ghz and 2800 NB range. Any faster and your just going to get better bench's not alot of real world performance you can feel in "most" applications.


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Boot loop! try some different voltage settings and freq's on the NB. if the system locks up and won't go in to BIO just reset the CMOS and try again. You might need to get the NB up to the 2800 side of things, past 2800 CPU/NB your getting into benchmark territory. You won't feel a log of performance gain unless your benching.
> Mind you this CPU/NB setting is going to rise the heat of the CPU chip so keep tabs on the temps you might also need as much as 1.35-137v on the CPU/NB. Its still totaly safe voltage as long as your cooler can cope. I have noticed stability becomes an issue with the 955 at around 52c+ when really pushing. If not bench marking keep your OC to the 4.0Ghz and 2800 NB range. Any faster and your just going to get better bench's not alot of real world performance you can feel in "most" applications.


The system started, ( second) when I put the power wired and press botton power on with the changes
NB: 2600 mhz
CPU-NB voltage : 1.30v

Now running sucessfully. I turn off and turn on the system and started fine. Only ocurred the firts, when saved.
I pass Prime95, games benchmark and played games.

Max temperatures

CPU: 4 Ghz
NB : 2600 mhz
CPU : 54ºC
TMPIN2 : 66 ºC

I will try NB: 2800mhz. thanks a lot.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> The system started, ( second) when I put the power wired and press botton power on with the changes
> NB: 2600 mhz
> CPU-NB voltage : 1.30v
> Now running sucessfully. I turn off and turn on the system and started fine. Only ocurred the firts, when saved.
> I pass Prime95, games benchmark and played games.
> Max temperatures
> 
> CPU: 4 Ghz
> NB : 2600 mhz
> CPU : 54ºC
> TMPIN2 : 66 ºC
> I will try NB: 2800mhz. thanks a lot.


Not to bad. CPU temp is getting a little warm but your still good! Glad it was a one time thing. I have had that happen from time to time.


----------



## ebduncan

Phenom II's hate heat.

If your under 55c your good to go.Go Above that and odds are you likely are not stable.


----------



## WalCs

It there real performance gain going from NB 2600 > 2800? Heat is not a problem atm but it's getting close to the limit so I would like to decrease the NB down a little if there isn't any real gain from the 200MHz on the NB. Thanks!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WalCs*
> 
> It there real performance gain going from NB 2600 > 2800? Heat is not a problem atm but it's getting close to the limit so I would like to decrease the NB down a little if there isn't any real gain from the 200MHz on the NB. Thanks!


It depends on what your doing with your system. If its a gaming rig 2600 will be perfectly fine. You could even go lower than that I'll bet and not affect gaming performance at all. If you do stuff like folding or maybe media encoding It would fall under personal opinion I think.


----------



## Kieran

I've heard about a vDroop problem with the UD7. What exactly does that mean and does it impact overclocking much?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kieran*
> 
> I've heard about a vDroop problem with the UD7. What exactly does that mean and does it impact overclocking much?


Vdroop and Vboost both affect overclocking a great deal. Vboost or Vdroop are when you set a voltage in the BIOS, lets say 1.450vcore. Vdroop happends when the system hits full load and the Vcore voltage drop's below what it hs been set at. Vboost is when the voltage rise's above what it was set at. Load Iine Calibration is a setting to help set an offset voltage to deal with droop. If I understood correct the newest version of the UD7 was given LLC by gigabyte.

It can massivly affect overclocking. If the voltage Boost's high you can damage your chip, if the voltage Droops while under load it may not have enough voltage to hold the OC stable. My UD3 has a Vdroop issue, its small. I set BIOS to 1.450v and under full load my Vcore sits at 1.440v so I have a Vdroop problem of 0.010v.

I gatta warn you the YD7 has the worst voltage problems out of all the boards in the series.


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Vdroop and Vboost both affect overclocking a great deal. Vboost or Vdroop are when you set a voltage in the BIOS, lets say 1.450vcore. Vdroop happends when the system hits full load and the Vcore voltage drop's below what it hs been set at. Vboost is when the voltage rise's above what it was set at. Load Iine Calibration is a setting to help set an offset voltage to deal with droop. If I understood correct the newest version of the UD7 was given LLC by gigabyte.
> It can massivly affect overclocking. If the voltage Boost's high you can damage your chip, if the voltage Droops while under load it may not have enough voltage to hold the OC stable. My UD3 has a Vdroop issue, its small. I set BIOS to 1.450v and under full load my Vcore sits at 1.440v so I have a Vdroop problem of 0.010v.
> I gatta warn you the YD7 has the worst voltage problems out of all the boards in the series.


yes it is the worst I've seen up to *0.110* droop

the latest bios is much better giving a boost at idle of about 0.017 and a droop of 0.041 on rev 1.0 boards in total about 0.058. so they're countering in with a slight boost now. good idea in gigabytes part.

My old M4A89TD deluxe usb3.0/pro had LLC with enable it would jump pretty high with it disable it would droop about 0.0625 still mange 4.0ghz on phenom II x6 at 1.4125-1.380 load.


----------



## Kieran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Vdroop and Vboost both affect overclocking a great deal. Vboost or Vdroop are when you set a voltage in the BIOS, lets say 1.450vcore. Vdroop happends when the system hits full load and the Vcore voltage drop's below what it hs been set at. Vboost is when the voltage rise's above what it was set at. Load Iine Calibration is a setting to help set an offset voltage to deal with droop. If I understood correct the newest version of the UD7 was given LLC by gigabyte.
> It can massivly affect overclocking. If the voltage Boost's high you can damage your chip, if the voltage Droops while under load it may not have enough voltage to hold the OC stable. My UD3 has a Vdroop issue, its small. I set BIOS to 1.450v and under full load my Vcore sits at 1.440v so I have a Vdroop problem of 0.010v.
> I gatta warn you the YD7 has the worst voltage problems out of all the boards in the series.


Sounds quite bad then. It's a shame as i was planning on getting one due to the fact that it will give me a one slot gap between my 2 three slot GPU's. I have yet to find another AMD board that will do that.
I've got my 1055t at 1.440v running at 3.8GHz and it's quite stable (can fold for days without any problems) so this problem could affect the stability of my overclock.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kieran*
> 
> Sounds quite bad then. It's a shame as i was planning on getting one due to the fact that it will give me a one slot gap between my 2 three slot GPU's. I have yet to find another AMD board that will do that.
> I've got my 1055t at 1.440v running at 3.8GHz and it's quite stable (can fold for days without any problems) so this problem could affect the stability of my overclock.


Its possible that your OC would be affected, Its also possible that with the new board you can keep your OC just the same. Like I said the new version of the board has LLC. This feature is great for the UD7. It will allow you to fine tune your OC even more. As long as you make sure you get a board with LLC then your good to go.

Also. I didn't mean to scare you from the board, only inform you Keep in mind that almost EVERY motherboard has some kind of VDroop. its worse on some boards than others but it's almost always there. On top of that your not using that high of an overclock I think you could pull of 3.8Ghz EASY on the UD7 and would be shocked if 4.0Ghz with high CPU/NB clocks didn't happen.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Anyway....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> My UD3 has a Vdroop issue, its small. I set BIOS to 1.450v and under full load my Vcore sits at 1.440v so I have a Vdroop problem of 0.010v..


What is your LLC setting at?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Anyway....
> What is your LLC setting at?


UD3 has no LLC feature Make's the new version of the UD7 with LLC well worth the money now.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> UD3 has no LLC feature Make's the new version of the UD7 with LLC well worth the money now.


The exception (for clarification







) to this is that the UD3 does not "need" LLC...

The Ud5 and Ud7 use DrMOS power. The UD3 does not, instead it uses the older tried and true separate driver + mosfet design. Thereby the UD3 "VBoosts" under load. (Instead of "Vdroop" of the Ud5 and Ud7)

DrMOS is quickly becoming a industry standard because it is more efficient in power delivery than separate driver + mosfet configurations (less heat, quicker voltage response, etc...). Counteracting the down sides to the tech, such as "VDroop", (in this case LLC) will advance as the tech is explored and implemented further.

(hence my decision to buy the UD3 this go around)

Only because counteracting "VBoost" is a bit easier to handle when OC'ing than trying to counteract "VDroop". (even with LLC)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> The exception (for clarification
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) to this is that the UD3 does not "need" LLC...
> The Ud5 and Ud7 use DrMOS power. The UD3 does not, instead it uses the older tried and true separate driver + mosfet design. Thereby the UD3 "VBoosts" under load. (Instead of "Vdroop" of the Ud5 and Ud7)
> DrMOS is quickly becoming a industry standard because it is more efficient in power delivery than separate driver + mosfet configurations (less heat, quicker voltage response, etc...). Counteracting the down sides to the tech, such as "VDroop", (in this case LLC) will advance as the tech is explored and implemented further.
> (hence my decision to buy the UD3 this go around)
> Only because counteracting "VBoost" is a bit easier to handle when OC'ing than trying to counteract "VDroop". (even with LLC)


Great info! Thank's for sharing!


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> UD3 has no LLC feature Make's the new version of the UD7 with LLC well worth the money now.


My rev 1.1 UD3 does...? and it most definately vdroops under load and vboosts when idle..?







Did I get a UD5 by accident?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> My rev 1.1 UD3 does...? and it most definately vdroops under load and vboosts when idle..?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did I get a UD5 by accident?


I don't know lol. Look at it







I just checked my UD3 BIOS again just to be sure, No LLC anywhere. I don't know what happends to my voltage on idle as far as boos or droop. I know at full load its a minior droop. Very easy to combat. The 1.1 UD3 was mostly a change in sata controller's and other minior tweak's, never heard about it getting LLC though.

EDIT: forgot to put in why I dont know what going on with my idle voltage, I have Cool N Quiet on so my voltage drops very low on idle(only has to support 800mhz per core at idle/browsing the net).


----------



## MadGoat

To see the vboost or vdroop of a board you would have to disable all power saving functions of the board. ( c1e, cnq and even Turbo boost). Set your voltage and get a "true" reading @ idle. I say "true" because some programs will read the power state of the proc and apply a "known" voltage value for the proc. HwMonitor is a good app. Once the baseline voltage at idle is established, you can then load the cores. (Prime95 or similar) the difference in your voltages at idle and load will determine the vboost or vdroop amount. The BIOS set voltage will always be different than what is seen in actual voltage and should really only be used as a rough "guesstimate" of what voltage to expect. Determining the "actual" voltage should be the first order or business when starting an OC (IMO).


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> To see the vboost or vdroop of a board you would have to disable all power saving functions of the board. ( c1e, cnq and even Turbo boost). Set your voltage and get a "true" reading @ idle. I say "true" because some programs will read the power state of the proc and apply a "known" voltage value for the proc. HwMonitor is a good app. Once the baseline voltage at idle is established, you can then load the cores. (Prime95 or similar) the difference in your voltages at idle and load will determine the vboost or vdroop amount. The BIOS set voltage will always be different than what is seen in actual voltage and should really only be used as a rough "guesstimate" of what voltage to expect. Determining the "actual" voltage should be the first order or business when starting an OC (IMO).


Yea, I could...But that's a lot of work for something that doesn't bother or affect my OC lol. I got lucky and my chip like's 4.0Ghz/2800CPU/NB with power saving options on so I never turned them off







Very lucky chip lol.


----------



## MadGoat

I hear ya... tbh I gave up with the voltage tweaking early on with the previous beta bios's. I was only concerned with Max load voltage and Oc stability with cnq and c1e enabled. I do know from early testing this board does boost, and that works out great with c1e enabled since I gain stability between clocks and lower power states.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I hear ya... tbh I gave up with the voltage tweaking early on with the previous beta bios's. I was only concerned with Max load voltage and Oc stability with cnq and c1e enabled. I do know from early testing this board does boost, and that works out great with c1e enabled since I gain stability between clocks and lower power states.


Nice. When I got this board I followed my Phenom II OC procedure. very simple lol, Set the Vcore to 1.50, and the CPU/NB voltage at 1.40. set the CPU at 4.0 and the NB at 2800. Ran prime overnight, then backed down the Vcore a notch ran prime overnight, backed the CPU/NB off a notch and ram prime again. did this untill I got to the lowest stable voltage. after that I left it alone. Sometime soon my silver Arrow will be back on the 955 and I might push for 4.2 again.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I don't know lol. Look at it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just checked my UD3 BIOS again just to be sure, No LLC anywhere. I don't know what happends to my voltage on idle as far as boos or droop. I know at full load its a minior droop. Very easy to combat. The 1.1 UD3 was mostly a change in sata controller's and other minior tweak's, never heard about it getting LLC though.
> EDIT: forgot to put in why I dont know what going on with my idle voltage, I have Cool N Quiet on so my voltage drops very low on idle(only has to support 800mhz per core at idle/browsing the net).












UD3 1.1 bios F4. If im not mistaken this is LLC?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> UD3 1.1 bios F4. If im not mistaken this is LLC?


You are not mistaken. thats LLC, load line calibration/controll. same thing. let me check my UD3 once more to make sure I'm not insane.

EDIT: yea, looked all over for LLC in my UD3 1.0 none there. Been looking around on the interwebz and it seems there is alot of debate on other fourms as to when, where and how LLC showed up. I remeber reading a few articles about the 1.0 to 1.1 change is all i remeber is change's to the Sata Controller and the port's on the back of the mobo. I wounder if it was the 1.1 board that got LLC or a specific BIOS for the 1.1 that gave it.


----------



## tuso

In my UD3 v1.2 , appear Load Line control, is the same menu than Shadow_Foxx.

In my case is AUTO. Which is the best option for overclock ? Extreme option ?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> In my UD3 v1.2 , appear Load Line control, is the same menu than Shadow_Foxx.
> In my case is AUTO. Which is the best option for overclock ? Extreme option ?


Depends on how much droop your getting.


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> I will change :
> NB: 2600mhz
> CPU NB voltage : 1.30 v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now running sucessfully.
> But ocurred something strange. When "save" in bios the new configuration. The system "Power off" and "Power on" but not started.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , The system was Turn ON with the HDD lights ON but not started. Then, quit the the Power wired and wait two minutes, I put the Power Wired and and Turn ON and the system started sucessfully. ??










, In 3dmark 2011 and resident evil 5 benchmark the system was freeze,








with NB: 2600mhz
CPU NB voltage : 1.30 v

Is sure, increase the CPU NB Voltage to 1.40v ?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , In 3dmark 2011 and resident evil 5 benchmark the system was freeze,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> with NB: 2600mhz
> CPU NB voltage : 1.30 v
> Is sure, increase the CPU NB Voltage to 1.40v ?


Thats a little high, might try 1.35 first?


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Depends on how much droop your getting.


So the more vdroop that you are getting under load, the higher you should set your LLC? so if I was getting terrible vdroop, raising LLC to extreme would bring the load volts back up? Does LLC affect idle voltage at all? Assuming I don't use power control features?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> So the more vdroop that you are getting under load, the higher you should set your LLC? so if I was getting terrible vdroop, raising LLC to extreme would bring the load volts back up? Does LLC affect idle voltage at all? Assuming I don't use power control features?


yes. The worse the Vdroop the more you should use LLC. Personally I would maually set your Vcore in the BIOS and turn LLC off. Run prime for a min or two to see what your voltage look's like. If your getting droop, start with the lowest setting LLC. See how it affects the droop. I know with my intel at some point the LLC will stop helping Vdroop and start adding Boosting the voltage beyond what was set in the BIOS.

EDIT:I'm not sure how it will affect the idle voltage of the CPU, as idle voltage's on my AMD's has always been fine regaurdless of OC or settings used.


----------



## ML241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> In my UD3 v1.2 , appear Load Line control, is the same menu than Shadow_Foxx.
> In my case is AUTO. Which is the best option for overclock ? Extreme option ?


My UD3 rev 1.1 also has LLC. I had no vdroop issues with my x4 955 but as soon as I put in a FX the volts jumped all over the place.


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ML241*
> 
> My UD3 rev 1.1 also has LLC. I had no vdroop issues with my x4 955 but as soon as I put in a FX the volts jumped all over the place.


ML241, what option has you put in LLC mode ? AUTO ? regular ? because my board does not Disable option.

I did some tests and appears voltage diferences, I checked with hardware monitor program and CPU-Z see you :

Note: My cpu core is in NORMAL : 1.400v

LLC mode option :

--Hardware monitor program--

LLC mode option : CPU Voltage Min CPU Voltage Max

Extreme 1.44v 1.47v
Regular 1.41v 1.42v
Auto 1.41v 1.42v

--CPU-Z ----

LLC mode option : CPU Voltage Min CPU Voltage Max

Extreme 1.440v 1.472v
Regular 1.408v 1.424v
Auto 1.408v 1.424v

I think that in AUTOoption, the system choose REGULAR option, this is the most stable option.

One question, How change to manual the CPU Vcore ?

In my board you only choose NORMAL (1.400v) , and the other option + or - voltage.


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Thats a little high, might try 1.35 first?


Thanks a lot.

I tried with CPU NB voltage : 1.325v and the system at moment running sucessfully.
















but I can not change to
NB: 2800mhz
CPU NB voltage : 1.375 v

The system not restart. I do not known why.

KhaoticKomputing, You and I have similar system CPU, board.. Which values do you have ?

CPU vcore ?
NB: ?
CPU/NB voltage : ?
Memory settings 1600mhz or 1333 mhz ?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> Thanks a lot.
> I tried with CPU NB voltage : 1.325v and the system at moment running sucessfully.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I can not change to
> NB: 2800mhz
> CPU NB voltage : 1.375 v
> The system not restart. I do not known why.
> KhaoticKomputing, You and I have similar system CPU, board.. Which values do you have ?
> CPU vcore ?
> NB: ?
> CPU/NB voltage : ?
> Memory settings 1600mhz or 1333 mhz ?


CPU Vcore is at 1.450v (1.440v after droop no LLC)
CPU/NB is 1.35v
My CPU clock speed is at 4.0 through the mulit(20.0)
CPU/NB is at 2800

When overclocking set the memory to stock voltage, timings and all that jaz. The 955's have weak internal memory controller. This means that overclocking RAM or using all the DIMS on the board can lower your ability to overclock.

What revision is your CPU, C3 or C2? if its a C2 the overclocking head room is pretty low. 3.8 seems to be the wall. C3's clock better.


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> CPU Vcore is at 1.450v (1.440v after droop no LLC)
> CPU/NB is 1.35v
> My CPU clock speed is at 4.0 through the mulit(20.0)
> CPU/NB is at 2800
> When overclocking set the memory to stock voltage, timings and all that jaz. The 955's have weak internal memory controller. This means that overclocking RAM or using all the DIMS on the board can lower your ability to overclock.
> What revision is your CPU, C3 or C2? if its a C2 the overclocking head room is pretty low. 3.8 seems to be the wall. C3's clock better.


Yes is C3,







. I going to probe your recommendations . thanks for your support.


----------



## Marshmellow17

Finally got a D14 so I could do some serious OCing. After fiddling around for a bit, I managed 4.2:

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2268775

1.42v on the cpu
1.3v on the NB
1.2v on cpu-nb link
2800MHz NB frequency

Max temp is 55C under linpack

tried 4.3 with the same settings but got stuck in boot loop. Tomorrow I'll see about bumping some voltages, too late right now


----------



## tuso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marshmellow17*
> 
> Finally got a D14 so I could do some serious OCing. After fiddling around for a bit, I managed 4.2:
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2268775
> 1.42v on the cpu
> 1.3v on the NB
> 1.2v on cpu-nb link
> 2800MHz NB frequency
> Max temp is 55C under linpack
> tried 4.3 with the same settings but got stuck in boot loop. Tomorrow I'll see about bumping some voltages, too late right now


very good x4 965 and only CPU vcore 1.42v.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marshmellow17*
> 
> Finally got a D14 so I could do some serious OCing. After fiddling around for a bit, I managed 4.2:
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2268775
> 1.42v on the cpu
> 1.3v on the NB
> 1.2v on cpu-nb link
> 2800MHz NB frequency
> Max temp is 55C under linpack
> tried 4.3 with the same settings but got stuck in boot loop. Tomorrow I'll see about bumping some voltages, too late right now


If you really want to prove stability you should run a custom prime95 blend. Use 90% of your memory and let it run for 15-18 hours. At 15min an FFT you will hit all FFT's after about 18 hours or so. no one can argue with that staiblity!

Nice voltage on the clock though.


----------



## arsenal553

Does anyone know if there is a new revision of the UD7 and if newegg is selling it?


----------



## viridia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arsenal553*
> 
> Does anyone know if there is a new revision of the UD7 and if newegg is selling it?


I purchased and received a UD7 last week from Newegg - a revision 1.1 was delivered to me.


----------



## JakR4bbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> ML241, what option has you put in LLC mode ? AUTO ? regular ? because my board does not Disable option.
> I did some tests and appears voltage diferences, I checked with hardware monitor program and CPU-Z see you :
> 
> Note: My cpu core is in NORMAL : 1.400v
> LLC mode option :
> --Hardware monitor program--
> 
> LLC mode option : CPU Voltage Min CPU Voltage Max
> 
> Extreme 1.44v 1.47v
> Regular 1.41v 1.42v
> Auto 1.41v 1.42v
> --CPU-Z ----
> LLC mode option : CPU Voltage Min CPU Voltage Max
> 
> Extreme 1.440v 1.472v
> Regular 1.408v 1.424v
> Auto 1.408v 1.424v
> 
> I think that in AUTOoption, the system choose REGULAR option, this is the most stable option.
> One question, How change to manual the CPU Vcore ?
> In my board you only choose NORMAL (1.400v) , and the other option + or - voltage.


*Updated:* Here is the link to the LLC test spreadsheet I made. Voltages were obtained with CPU-Z and load was applied with prime95. Cells showing two voltages mean that the voltage shown in CPU-Z was bouncing back and forth between the two voltages.

I've made a spreadsheet of some tests I did on LLC with my UD3 rev 1.1. I'll try to get this posted here when I get home. It may be different per board, but at least we'll have a reference point. You are correct that there's no OFF option for the LLC. No matter which setting I choose, I ALWAYS get Vboost under load.

If I remember correctly, the most consistent setting for the LLC was Ultra High. Stay away from Auto and Extreme and you'll be fine. On my board the Auto settings uses Extreme, which adds way too much voltage IMHO.


----------



## arsenal553

How is the vDroop/Boost on the UD7 1.1?


----------



## viridia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arsenal553*
> 
> How is the vDroop/Boost on the UD7 1.1?


I'm running the "Extreme" load line setting at the moment, and it seems to work well; 1.5125 Vcore in bios gives the same in Windows running Prime95. The 8150 is mostly stable at 4.8GHz and DDR3 2200, but sadly I haven't been able to make the magical five-oh stable yet.


----------



## therfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitusPrime*
> 
> Well, my UD3 has finally given up and blown some VRM.
> The cooling on the VRM is just inadequate for FX8xxx overclocking and sustained use.....especially on a board that 'looks' like it's over-volting iteslf under load.
> If you compare the UD3 to either the Sabertooth or Crosshair then you will see just how inadequate it is. I don't think the UD5 or UD7 heatsinks look chunky enough either for how much current the boards can supply to the CPU.
> It's such a pity because the slot layout of the UD3 is the best out of all the boards but i've moved that down the priority list now.
> If GloFo fix their 32nm process then Piledriver might be ok but Gigabyte have scrimped a bit too far on this series.


I think I blew the VRM on my UD3 also. Was running a high computational load for a while last night to test out the new build, came back to my bench noticing the characteristic burnt electronics smell, and before I could even get to the power button, the whole system abruptly shut off. My first instinct was that the PSU gave up, but swapping PSUs did not remedy the situation. No boot, no POST, fans don't even spin up. There is power on the 12V standby however, for what that's worth.

There is a possibility it's the FX-8150 that gave up, but temps were within guidelines (about 59C) when the fault occurred. And typically, when a CPU dies, the system freezes, it doesn't power down suddenly. Hopefully yesterday's event didn't fry the CPU also.

The local computer shop I deal with exchanged the motherboard without any hassles. I will install the new one this evening and see if the CPU is OK. I may need to look at a better way of cooling the VRMs, since in my current setup they are hidden behind the radiator for the Kuhler 920 and the heatsink gets minimal airflow. Barring that, perhaps spending the extra 50$ for the Sabertooth would be a good move.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therfman*
> 
> I think I blew the VRM on my UD3 also. Was running a high computational load for a while last night to test out the new build, came back to my bench noticing the characteristic burnt electronics smell, and before I could even get to the power button, the whole system abruptly shut off. My first instinct was that the PSU gave up, but swapping PSUs did not remedy the situation. No boot, no POST, fans don't even spin up. There is power on the 12V standby however, for what that's worth.
> There is a possibility it's the FX-8150 that gave up, but temps were within guidelines (about 59C) when the fault occurred. And typically, when a CPU dies, the system freezes, it doesn't power down suddenly. Hopefully yesterday's event didn't fry the CPU also.
> The local computer shop I deal with exchanged the motherboard without any hassles. I will install the new one this evening and see if the CPU is OK. I may need to look at a better way of cooling the VRMs, since in my current setup they are hidden behind the radiator for the Kuhler 920 and the heatsink gets minimal airflow. Barring that, perhaps spending the extra 50$ for the Sabertooth would be a good move.


You must have had those VRAMS screaming hot. I'll agree it dose not sound like the CPU died. sorry you had poor luck with your board. However it is to be exptected. To assume that every mobo to come of the line is going to be fault free is impossible. I say give it another go with better flow to your VRAMS. Are you using a CLC from corsair/antec? its a common problem with CLC's to cut off airflow to the VRAMS.


----------



## therfman

Yes, I'm using an Antec Kuhler 920. The rad/fan assembly sits directly on top on the VRM heatsink in my BirFenix Outlaw case. From what I can tell, the VRM heatsink on the replacement board is more secure than on the one that died. I think there was some bad contact going on there. An overclocked FX-8140 also draws A LOT of current under load, so all those conditions together made for a bad combination of events for sure.

I love your avatar BTW. I have a car that looks a lot like that. My wife is convinced she is evil


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therfman*
> 
> Yes, I'm using an Antec Kuhler 920. The rad/fan assembly sits directly on top on the VRM heatsink in my BirFenix Outlaw case. From what I can tell, the VRM heatsink on the replacement board is more secure than on the one that died. I think there was some bad contact going on there. An overclocked FX-8140 also draws A LOT of current under load, so all those conditions together made for a bad combination of events for sure.
> I love your avatar BTW. I have a car that looks a lot like that. My wife is convinced she is evil


Thanks my cat looks just like the one in my avatar, my wife made me use it lol.What case do you have? there might be a way to add some airflow to that dead zone. Thats one of the reasons I try not to recomend people use the CLC's unless their case is too small for a conventional cooler/water loop.


----------



## therfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Thanks my cat looks just like the one in my avatar, my wife made me use it lol.What case do you have? there might be a way to add some airflow to that dead zone. Thats one of the reasons I try not to recomend people use the CLC's unless their case is too small for a conventional cooler/water loop.


My case is a BitFenix Outlaw.

I can also confirm that the CPU is dead. I installed the replacement motherboard, and now the fans spin up for about 1 second before shutting down every time I press the power button. I have tested the RAM, video card(s) and PSU in another system, so that only leaves the CPU as the culprit. I will see if my local store is willing to exchange it for me tomorrow. Otherwise, I will have to buy a new one and RMA the old one directly to AMD.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therfman*
> 
> My case is a BitFenix Outlaw.
> I can also confirm that the CPU is dead. I installed the replacement motherboard, and now the fans spin up for about 1 second before shutting down every time I press the power button. I have tested the RAM, video card(s) and PSU in another system, so that only leaves the CPU as the culprit. I will see if my local store is willing to exchange it for me tomorrow. Otherwise, I will have to buy a new one and RMA the old one directly to AMD.


That some bad luck there. That case looks pretty well layed out, Could you place the cooler in one of the fan locations of the roof?


----------



## therfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> That some bad luck there. That case looks pretty well layed out, Could you place the cooler in one of the fan locations of the roof?


Unfortunately, the coolant lines are not long enough to reach that far, especially since they would need to route around the video cards. I will probably just put a small 40mm fan at the end of the VRM heatsink to ensure that there is some airflow in that area behind the radiator.


----------



## therfman

Allright. Replacement MB and CPU obtained, back in business. I've been monitoring the VRM section a lot more now that I have some knowledge about the operation of this board.

I put a can on the VRM heatsink and another on the NB (Placement not ideal, but this is just a test). I also used MX4 thermal compound instead of whatever came with the Kuhler 920. what a difference. Temps are down at least 10C on the CPU.

For now I'm at 4400MHz @ 1.36V and 48C. I know I can go further than that. My concern is that the inductors (chokes) on the CPU VRM are getting hot. Real Hot. Like up to 110C kind of hot. That seems unusual, but it may very well be within the design specs for those parts. The fact that they are not under a heatsink would lead me to believe the folks at Gigabyte think the same. The engineer in my is just a bit worried when I see such temperatures).

I was just wondering if there was any anecdotal evidence of temperatures getting this hot on the inductors in this board or similar board with OC'd FX CPUs (they do pull lots of current at load!).

Check out the picture to see the exact component I'm referring to.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therfman*
> 
> Allright. Replacement MB and CPU obtained, back in business. I've been monitoring the VRM section a lot more now that I have some knowledge about the operation of this board.
> I put a can on the VRM heatsink and another on the NB (Placement not ideal, but this is just a test). I also used MX4 thermal compound instead of whatever came with the Kuhler 920. what a difference. Temps are down at least 10C on the CPU.
> For now I'm at 4400MHz @ 1.36V and 48C. I know I can go further than that. My concern is that the inductors (chokes) on the CPU VRM are getting hot. Real Hot. Like up to 110C kind of hot. That seems unusual, but it may very well be within the design specs for those parts. The fact that they are not under a heatsink would lead me to believe the folks at Gigabyte think the same. The engineer in my is just a bit worried when I see such temperatures).
> I was just wondering if there was any anecdotal evidence of temperatures getting this hot on the inductors in this board or similar board with OC'd FX CPUs (they do pull lots of current at load!).
> Check out the picture to see the exact component I'm referring to.


I would remove your OC and run at stock clocks and voltage's, see if it affects your choke temp any. If it dose I would send gigabyte an e-mail asking about what temps they tested to. I did this with the Northbridge temps and got a reply back within a day. The e-mail I recived said they tested the NB to 80-85c with out any problems so it might be perfectly fine for your choke's...Can I ask what your ambient temp is?


----------



## therfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I would remove your OC and run at stock clocks and voltage's, see if it affects your choke temp any. If it dose I would send gigabyte an e-mail asking about what temps they tested to. I did this with the Northbridge temps and got a reply back within a day. The e-mail I recived said they tested the NB to 80-85c with out any problems so it might be perfectly fine for your choke's...Can I ask what your ambient temp is?


Without the OC, I have seen choke temps up to ~75C. These FX processors are real current hogs when OC's. My wall socket power goes up almost 100W under load between stock clock and 4.4 GHz at 1.37V. Ambient in my basement in this Canadian winter is about 19C.

I will email Gigabyte. I will also try to get a part number on the choke and find the specs for it. I could always find and add a heatsink, or just get a motherboard with a beefier VRM cooling section that also covers the chokes.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *therfman*
> 
> Without the OC, I have seen choke temps up to ~75C. These FX processors are real current hogs when OC's. My wall socket power goes up almost 100W under load between stock clock and 4.4 GHz at 1.37V. Ambient in my basement in this Canadian winter is about 19C.
> I will email Gigabyte. I will also try to get a part number on the choke and find the specs for it. I could always find and add a heatsink, or just get a motherboard with a beefier VRM cooling section that also covers the chokes.


Yea, there is some debate about the cooling not being up to par but mine has ran for months just fine, even with a heavy overclock on my 955BE with ambiant temps getting up to 85f range. Those BD chips must be major power hogs but your temps see very very high for you rambiant. one of these might work.


----------



## Ahzanti

Dose anyone have an idea whether or not my board is bad or what? I have the 990fxa-ud5 and now it is constantly updating the backup bios in a loop. I can get it to boot to windows after 10 min of playing with it if I am lucky, but this is ridicules. I have flashed the bios from F7h back to F6, which is the one on the backup bios. Then to F5 and no luck I still get the updating bios loop.

In better detail:
1) turn on computer see info screen with ram and bios version
2) screen changes to what HDD and SSD drives I have then
3) Updating backup bios......
4) beep
5) Resets its self and I see info screen with ram and bios version again.
6) Repeat over and over and over

Any sugestions or should I get a refund and a new mobo all together?


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> Dose anyone have an idea whether or not my board is bad or what? I have the 990fxa-ud5 and now it is constantly updating the backup bios in a loop. I can get it to boot to windows after 10 min of playing with it if I am lucky, but this is ridicules. I have flashed the bios from F7h back to F6, which is the one on the backup bios. Then to F5 and no luck I still get the updating bios loop.
> 
> In better detail:
> 1) turn on computer see info screen with ram and bios version
> 2) screen changes to what HDD and SSD drives I have then
> 3) Updating backup bios......
> 4) beep
> 5) Resets its self and I see info screen with ram and bios version again.
> 6) Repeat over and over and over
> 
> Any sugestions or should I get a refund and a new mobo all together?


I used to get the updating bios-thingy whenever I messed with my RAM too much. I'll try to replicate it tomorrow.


----------



## Wild Wally

This may be a stupid question but have you tried any of the following:

Reloading the BIOS from a floppy or small USB drive.

Booting from the install disk for your OS.

Booting from a USB drive into another OS like Ubuntu, etc.

Disconnecting all or some of your devices and seeing how far you can get.

Sounds like you have a hardware issue or a corrupted BIOS. Hopefully the hardware issue is not your board but something not properly connected needing reseating.

WW


----------



## Ahzanti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> This may be a stupid question but have you tried any of the following:
> Reloading the BIOS from a floppy or small USB drive.
> Booting from the install disk for your OS.
> Booting from a USB drive into another OS like Ubuntu, etc.
> Disconnecting all or some of your devices and seeing how far you can get.
> Sounds like you have a hardware issue or a corrupted BIOS. Hopefully the hardware issue is not your board but something not properly connected needing reseating.
> WW


I did move the ram after the bios update issue. I did reload the main bios to several diffrent versions and used default config. What else other then ram could need reseating?
Could the Graphics card cause it??


----------



## MadGoat

i got this the other day,

right when the bios would normally go to "loading operating system" it would instead start the "updating backup bios" thing... then reboot...

this was only when I was pushing for a 4.5 ghz clock. once i did my benching and what not i set it back to my 24/7 cmos. it only does it when I'm pushing stupid numbers for benching or whatnot.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> i got this the other day,
> right when the bios would normally go to "loading operating system" it would instead start the "updating backup bios" thing... then reboot...
> this was only when I was pushing for a 4.5 ghz clock. once i did my benching and what not i set it back to my 24/7 cmos. it only does it when I'm pushing stupid numbers for benching or whatnot.


Good to know. I Have booted up my back up rig at 4.5Ghz(even made 1 hours of prime before a worker stopped) and never seen this boot loop/bios update loop. Do you think the BIOS version has somthing to do with it?


----------



## Cosanostra

After reading through all these posts I may just screw up the courage to try overclocking a bit.


----------



## Ahzanti

Decided to get my money back from Newegg and get a ASUS sabertooth. I do like this board and would recommend it but with a caveat that it dose/can have nasty issues. If you get a good one it is a great board, with lots of features and overclocks very easily.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ahzanti*
> 
> Decided to get my money back from Newegg and get a ASUS sabertooth. I do like this board and would recommend it but with a caveat that it dose/can have nasty issues. If you get a good one it is a great board, with lots of features and overclocks very easily.


Best of luck with the Sabertooth board


----------



## thfallen

I got a ud-7 loving it the v drop is strange but its makes it fun to make my over clocks work.



any one have any suggestions on ram looking for a 4 gig kit for over clocking and wanted to know what actual people are using just to get an idea.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thfallen*
> 
> I got a ud-7 loving it the v drop is strange but its makes it fun to make my over clocks work.
> 
> any one have any suggestions on ram looking for a 4 gig kit for over clocking and wanted to know what actual people are using just to get an idea.


a 2x2 kit would do nice. I would select a reputable set up 1600Mhz memory with CAS 8 or 9. With my 955 I gotten much better results from 1600 kits over 1333 kits. None of the 1333's I used clocked well at all. Good luck. These are great board's in my opinion, I love OC'ing my back up rig. Always testing new hardware with it.


----------



## thfallen

okay thanks.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## amdgig

.


----------



## KyadCK

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2291273

Scaled back my OC a little bit so I could lower the volts for the night, no point running 1.5 when I'm not using it









Love the 990FXA-UD3. BIOS is almost exactly the same as the 890GPA-UD3H I had before it, which is a good thing, I know that BIOS like the back of my hand now. It retained the strong PCB and features like Dual-BIOS, and auto-reboot if the OC fails that I've come to know and rely on from Gigabyte. I'm pretty set in stone by this point, just waiting on Piledriver.


----------



## MadGoat

Agreed,

Although I came from an older Nvidia chipset board (k9N2) I am also very comfortable with the bios.

Also wait for pile driver as well... looks like there wont be any news until Q3 now.









Probably wont have physical silicon in hand until 2013... oh well.

On the voltage side, I'm still dialing in my OC. It seems every time I get in the bios I tweak something for more performance or less voltage.









I recently was playing with the HT clock and gained a bunch of performance from running the HT and NB in sync at ~3ghz. I hadnt even tried that before... (seems so trivial I know, but it honestly didn't dawn on me)

Still loving this system...


----------



## remorseless

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2292220

check em


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I recently was playing with the HT clock and gained a bunch of performance from running the HT and NB in sync at ~3ghz. I hadnt even tried that before... (seems so trivial I know, but it honestly didn't dawn on me)


Wait, I thought the HT link was supposed to be as close to 2000 as possible? In what way did you gain performance, please tell me more


----------



## stasio

GA-990FXA-UD7 BIOS F8j is out.


----------



## Blatsz32

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2292708Hello new to this thread. 1) I'd love to join the club 2) I'm having issues with my board atm. I just bought the FX-8150 and when I turned my comp on the bios will not allow me to run my Ram at 1600. If I try it reverts to factory clock. So, reading through the posts I came across someone that seemed to have the same issue and it was solved by changing the bios MEOC (memory overclock) to Profile 1...problem is, when I do that I can not change my FSB frequency.I've tried getting my memory to 1600 with the FSB but to no avail. I have my CPU OCed to 4.6 with the multiplier. I'm not sure what to do..any help would be great. I am fairly new to overclocking. Everything I've learned I've gained from this site and thread.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2292708

just downloaded new bios will try.


----------



## cmac68

No real gains for bulldozer overclocking the NB. If your hitting 4.6GHz and your temps are good there then there really isn't any reason to. The gains would be very minimal and not justify the extra heat and voltage to the NB.

Using just the multiplier and upping the CPU voltage is fine.

For the RAM don't use the Memory profiles. Set the memory manually to x8.00 1600MHz and stock timings.


----------



## Blatsz32

Ty for the reply. I've tried manually setting in the bios x8.00(1600) but it just reverts back to 1333. Not only that I think using the profile to 1600 is making my comp crash when I try and run dvd burining apps. BF3 is fine though. I did put up a CPU-Z validation but apparentlly it's not working. I'll try again. I'm new to all this and don't know how to link anything.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2293225


----------



## Blatsz32

Oh sorry Pictures of my system


----------



## Wild Wally

On the GA-990FXA-UD7 what do temps 1, 2 and 3 represent on Open Hardware Monitor?

WW


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> On the GA-990FXA-UD7 what do temps 1, 2 and 3 represent on Open Hardware Monitor?
> WW


As far as I know, Temp 1 is the NB. Don't know about the others.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> On the GA-990FXA-UD7 what do temps 1, 2 and 3 represent on Open Hardware Monitor?
> WW


TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp

Its the same for the ud3/5/7


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Wait, I thought the HT link was supposed to be as close to 2000 as possible? In what way did you gain performance, please tell me more


Sorry didnt see yur post ...









Yeah, so I boosted the HT link up to synch with my NB OC and found a bunch more Memory Performance as well as computational (Prime, Super PI boosted as well).

Its a noticeable performance boost for sure, I did have to kick the HT voltage up a bit however, but didnt really see an effect on Heat.

As far as I'm seeing as long as the HT doesn't out pace the NB link, there is a small performance boost that can be had. But It also seems that thuban based cpu's benefit from increased ht link more so do to their tweaked memory controller over denub...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
> TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
> TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp
> Its the same for the ud3/5/7


Are we sure about those? My proc is idleing at 930mhz right now at 1.3v and reading 26c core temp... TMPIN1 is reading 41c...

TMPIN 0 - 30c
TMPIN 2 - 38c

I don't know... I gave up on those temp readings a long time ago...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Sorry didnt see yur post ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, so I boosted the HT link up to synch with my NB OC and found a bunch more Memory Performance as well as computational (Prime, Super PI boosted as well).
> Its a noticeable performance boost for sure, I did have to kick the HT voltage up a bit however, but didnt really see an effect on Heat.
> As far as I'm seeing as long as the HT doesn't out pace the NB link, there is a small performance boost that can be had. But It also seems that thuban based cpu's benefit from increased ht link more so do to their tweaked memory controller over denub...
> *Are we sure about those?* My proc is idleing at 930mhz right now at 1.3v and reading 26c core temp... TMPIN1 is reading 41c...
> TMPIN 0 - 30c
> TMPIN 2 - 38c
> I don't know... I gave up on those temp readings a long time ago...


Yes, Very. If you are running more than one program that polls temp sensors your readings will go "wonky". Even more so with these 990FX based boards, They seem to be picky about what Hardware Monitoring software they will play nice with. For my board OpenHardwareMonitor give's proper, consistent readings. I also happen to like the built in feature's such as the gadget and the ability to not monitor HDD temps(can affect hard drive speed with spinner's, no performance loss on SSD's). I have noticed that ASUS's built in software is quite buggy, and HardwareMonitor(CPUID brand) Would not give the right temps, CPU temp would read -155c for the low and 295c+ for the high.. knew it was false, those high of temps would have melted the PCB instantly, Thermal shutdown's would have went nuts. But it was always stable. I recommend that everyone should try EVERY free temp monitor they can get to see what the most accurate one is for your set up because its going to vary. Hope this helps.

EDITED: some of the spelling and grammar was horrid, even by my standards.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
> TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
> TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp
> Its the same for the ud3/5/7


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yes, Very. If you are running more than one program that polls temp sensors your readings will go "wonky". Even more so with these 990FX based boards, They seem to be picky about what Hardware Monitoring software they will play nice with. For my board OpenHardwareMonitor give's proper, consistent readings. I also happen to like the built in feature's such as the gadget and the ability to not monitor HDD temps(can affect hard drive speed with spinner's, no performance loss on SSD's). I have noticed that ASUS's built in software is quite buggy, and HardwareMonitor(CPUID brand) Would not give the right temps, CPU temp would read -155c for the low and 295c+ for the high.. knew it was false, those high of temps would have melted the PCB instantly, Thermal shutdown's would have went nuts. But it was always stable. I recommend that everyone should try EVERY free temp monitor they can get to see what the most accurate one is for your set up because its going to vary. Hope this helps.
> EDITED: some of the spelling and grammar was horrid, even by my standards.


lol, right on...

I gotta check out that open hardware monitor... that looks cool. Thanks for the heads up on that









I know its been covered like a billion times in this thread... but like I said... I gave up on the temps lol... just cared about core temp really...










ADDED:

bahh:


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> lol, right on...
> I gotta check out that open hardware monitor... that looks cool. Thanks for the heads up on that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know its been covered like a billion times in this thread... but like I said... I gave up on the temps lol... just cared about core temp really...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ADDED:
> bahh:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your temps seem to be somewhat accurate. I would run a quick test, like surf the net or put it on load. TMPIN02 is shows its scaling with your CPU core tmeps, only +10c. Maybe the voltage you use for you OC keeps the CPU socket warm? Not that the socket temp matters lulz.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Your temps seem to be somewhat accurate. I would run a quick test, like surf the net or put it on load. TMPIN02 is shows its scaling with your CPU core tmeps, only +10c. Maybe the voltage you use for you OC keeps the CPU socket warm? Not that the socket temp matters lulz.




Prime load for a couple min...

Ehh, I don't know what to make of it....









I need to replace this bunk corsair fan... running one excalibur now...


----------



## Wild Wally

Thanks for the answers guys. I know this was discussed in previous posts but none of them showed up in my search for some reason.

Have to agree with KhaoticKomputing. Open Hardware Monitor seems to be the most realistic at reporting temperatures for the system.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Sorry didnt see yur post ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, so I boosted the HT link up to synch with my NB OC and found a bunch more Memory Performance as well as computational (Prime, Super PI boosted as well).
> Its a noticeable performance boost for sure, I did have to kick the HT voltage up a bit however, but didnt really see an effect on Heat.
> As far as I'm seeing as long as the HT doesn't out pace the NB link, there is a small performance boost that can be had. But It also seems that thuban based cpu's benefit from increased ht link more so do to their tweaked memory controller over denub...


Hmm that is very good to know. I wonder why people have told me to keep my HT as close to 2000 as possible if there is a performance boost to be had. What did you have to raise your HT voltage to? and does this help with stability of anything, like memory OCs?


----------



## pale

Just a quick one, I havent updated my UD3 since F2 and just wondering which is considered the best BIOS atm?

do any of the newer BIOS's help with the vdroop/vboost issues?

Thanks.


----------



## cmac68

F5 is the best if using AM3 chips, it's what I used with my 1100T.

If you flash your bios to F5 make sure you flash to F3 and then F4 first.


----------



## Airrick10

Quick question, does anybody know if the included sate cables with the UD3 are sata III? I just ordered a sata III SSD and was wondering if I had to get new sata III cables. Thanks!!!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Quick question, does anybody know if the included sate cables with the UD3 are sata III? I just ordered a sata III SSD and was wondering if I had to get new sata III cables. Thanks!!!


Yes...

EDIT: You can look at them too. It will have them listed at 6GBps/3GBps.


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Quick question, does anybody know if the included sate cables with the UD3 are sata III? I just ordered a sata III SSD and was wondering if I had to get new sata III cables. Thanks!!!


I can second that they are, but it doesnt really matter if theyre certified SATA 6.o though.
Quote:


> There is virtually no difference between a brand-new SATA 6Gb/s marked cable made this year and one produced nearly eight years ago as far as performance goes


http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/your_sata_cable_slowing_down_your_data_transfers_max_pc_investigates

Interesting fact


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> I can second that they are, but it doesnt really matter if theyre certified SATA 6.o though.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is virtually no difference between a brand-new SATA 6Gb/s marked cable made this year and one produced nearly eight years ago as far as performance goes
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.maximumpc.com/article/features/your_sata_cable_slowing_down_your_data_transfers_max_pc_investigates
> Interesting fact
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick response Shadow_Foxx








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yes...
> EDIT: You can look at them too. It will have them listed at 6GBps/3GBps.


Thanks KhaoticKomputing


----------



## el gappo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmac68*
> 
> F5 is the best if using AM3 chips, it's what I used with my 1100T.
> If you flash your bios to F5 make sure you flash to F3 and then F4 first.


Just an fyi, the am3 cpu issues on newer bios's dont seem to crop up on the newer revisions ( rev 1.1 ) As have been runnning my 1100t quite happily for a while on F7 and now F8









Anyone running SSD's in Raid on the UD7? May have a little prezzie here if so


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> Just an fyi, the am3 cpu issues on newer bios's dont seem to crop up on the newer revisions ( rev 1.1 ) As have been runnning my 1100t quite happily for a while on F7 and now F8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone running SSD's in Raid on the UD7? May have a little prezzie here if so


The OCZ revo series are actually several SSD drives in a raid configuration. Mine is a revox2 which is 4 40GB SSDs in a raid 0 configuration.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> Hmm that is very good to know. I wonder why people have told me to keep my HT as close to 2000 as possible if there is a performance boost to be had. What did you have to raise your HT voltage to? and does this help with stability of anything, like memory OCs?


I had to kick the HT voltage to 1.325 for stability...

TBH I haven't tried to see if I gained any head room. I'm honestly really happy with the performance gain in itself. The system is many times more responsive...

I think the the PHII's before Thuban didn't like a very high HT clock... But I've found limited info about thuban scaling well with a much higher HT clock. The Tweaked memory controller on the Thuban (Zosma as well) is the only thing I can think of as the contributing factor. However, the proof is in the pudding as the say. there is a noticeable gain to be seen.

For interests sake I went back to my old 940 machine running on a 750a nvidia chipset and played with the HT and NB clock... I found a decent gain there as well... I was able to push the NB to 2400 and HT to 2200 with nice gains in all respects. The HT will go up to 2400 as well, but there was a noticeable drop in performance at that speed... so the chips d act differently to the changes.

On another note,

A little note on my recent developments... (spring break with time on my hands







)

Lapped:


Ultra Kaze 3k:


Profit:


Full prime blend load for a couple hours...


----------



## xstarscream

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *el gappo*
> 
> Just an fyi, the am3 cpu issues on newer bios's dont seem to crop up on the newer revisions ( rev 1.1 ) As have been runnning my 1100t quite happily for a while on F7 and now F8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone running SSD's in Raid on the UD7? May have a little prezzie here if so


F7, F8? Are these for UD7?


----------



## Shadow_Foxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I had to kick the HT voltage to 1.325 for stability...
> TBH I haven't tried to see if I gained any head room. I'm honestly really happy with the performance gain in itself. The system is many times more responsive...
> I think the the PHII's before Thuban didn't like a very high HT clock... But I've found limited info about thuban scaling well with a much higher HT clock. The Tweaked memory controller on the Thuban (Zosma as well) is the only thing I can think of as the contributing factor. However, the proof is in the pudding as the say. there is a noticeable gain to be seen.
> For interests sake I went back to my old 940 machine running on a 750a nvidia chipset and played with the HT and NB clock... I found a decent gain there as well... I was able to push the NB to 2400 and HT to 2200 with nice gains in all respects. The HT will go up to 2400 as well, but there was a noticeable drop in performance at that speed... so the chips d act differently to the changes.


You measure the performance gain just by the way your system "feels" or do you run super pi and the like to see? I will start playing around with mine sometime soon, thanks


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow_Foxx*
> 
> You measure the performance gain just by the way your system "feels" or do you run super pi and the like to see? I will start playing around with mine sometime soon, thanks


Both actually... to be honest at this point of OC'ing a "noticeable" performance increase is more important to me than any benchmark to me (I'm still running AMD case and point







lol) ...









But in this case I did see a VERY nice jump in super PI which is AMD's lynchpin really... as well as load times and minimum FPS. So I'd say a solid win...

To be honest though... the best part of it is that firefox loads with my normal 10-15 tabs WAY quicker... Don't ask me why... it just does...







That's "usable" OC for me.

Try it out... see what ya find... might find somethin' ya like...


----------



## LucaoIn

Hey guys I just bought a 990FXA-UD3 but I can not unlock my 555BE because I can't let it stable, I owned an ASUS M5A88-V EVO and could easily unlock this but I can not let it stable in this motherboard.

Somebody please could help me?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> Hey guys I just bought a 990FXA-UD3 but I can not unlock my 555BE because I can't let it stable, I owned an ASUS M5A88-V EVO and could easily unlock this but I can not let it stable in this motherboard.
> Somebody please could help me?


First step IMO is to make sure the setup is stable at stock clock's. You might have gotten a faulty mobo or the CPU back plate may even be shorting out So I would check for stability with everything at stock. Then move on to why the CPU is unstable when unlocked.


----------



## LucaoIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> First step IMO is to make sure the setup is stable at stock clock's. You might have gotten a faulty mobo or the CPU back plate may even be shorting out So I would check for stability with everything at stock. Then move on to why the CPU is unstable when unlocked.


Ok thanks for reply, i will test the stability by AMD Overdrive. I will post the results later


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> Ok thanks for reply, i will test the stability by AMD Overdrive. I will post the results later


Prime95 on blend or Intel Burn Test would be a better indication of stability and AMD Overdrive's stability test. Good luck.


----------



## idonthavefleas

i got one the other day not sure if i like it so far due to it boots slower then my intel i5 760 rig.the bios is just slow if you know what i mean the bios takes a bit to get thuu dureing boot.this is by far the fanciest mobo i have had i usaly get the free mobos that are on the frys specail


----------



## LucaoIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Prime95 on blend or Intel Burn Test would be a better indication of stability and AMD Overdrive's stability test. Good luck.


I just did the test with AMD Overdrive with no unlocking and the CPU get stable, i tried with unlock cores and crashed in the first ten seconds, i tried with CPU Voltage in 1.45V (Stock 1.40) and get unstable to, any ideas that can help me?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> I just did the test with AMD Overdrive with no unlocking and the CPU get stable, i tried with unlock cores and crashed in the first ten seconds, i tried with CPU Voltage in 1.45V (Stock 1.40) and get unstable to, any ideas that can help me?


I can give you a few suggestions that might work. First Fill out your sig rig. you can do this in your user control control panel for the website. This will show us everything in your rig and make trouble shooting a little easier. Are you using any power saving options such as Cool N quiet? If so turn them off. Also what bios version are you running on your UD3? Some versions are more problematic than others.


----------



## LucaoIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I can give you a few suggestions that might work. First Fill out your sig rig. you can do this in your user control control panel for the website. This will show us everything in your rig and make trouble shooting a little easier. Are you using any power saving options such as Cool N quiet? If so turn them off. Also what bios version are you running on your UD3? Some versions are more problematic than others.


I turned off the Cool N quiet and my bios version is F6f, i did the rig to.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> I turned off the Cool N quiet and my bios version is F6f, i did the rig to.


Roll back to the F5 BIOS. Not only is the F6f BIOS a beta it's for better support with AM3+ chips(Bulldozer). Seems that the F5 BIOS give's better stability to Phenom AM3 socket chips. I would try that.


----------



## LucaoIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Roll back to the F5 BIOS. Not only is the F6f BIOS a beta it's for better support with AM3+ chips(Bulldozer). Seems that the F5 BIOS give's better stability to Phenom AM3 socket chips. I would try that.


ok i will try that, but after this bios i am using the F5 and can't get stable to. but i will downgrade.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> ok i will try that, but after this bios i am using the F5 and can't get stable to. but i will downgrade.


Are you saying that you have already used the F5 BIOS and no luck?


----------



## LucaoIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Are you saying that you have already used the F5 BIOS and no luck?


Exactly, I just update thinking that would solve my problem


----------



## Kidsdad0101

Just got myself up and running on a new build. Trying my hand at raid (forgive my newb-e-ness / albeit, thats why Im here). Trying to get a raid 0 array running on 2 Crucial SSDs (64gb and 128gb). I know I will only get the performance from the smallest of the 2 drives (times 2 of course). Here is my issue:

Starting on pg 79 of the gigabyte user's manual (configuring SATA hard drives) I have no issues up until trying to configure a raid array in the raid bios. Once in the Marvell BIOS setup screen, RAID is not selectable. Meaning I can't create the VD and subsequently cannot proceed with the rest of the install.

I have tried installing all drivers as per the disk...still not letting me creat the array in Marvell raid bois...even though I already created the array in t
the option ROM utility.

Have also tried a full install of windows just to get on the gigabyte website and get all drivers that the @BIOS Utility recommends.

Additionally, notated in my device manager in "other devices", RAID controller is saying "the drivers for this device are not installed". Yes, I have tried to get the drivers by pressing "Update Drivers". Alas, no go.

Can you NINJAs give this struggling lunatic a hand with learning a little bit about raid and where I'm scrwewing this up.

Thanks in advance,
Kidsdad


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> Exactly, I just update thinking that would solve my problem


ok, When you unlock your CPU, what do you do? can you post a step by step of how you did it?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kidsdad0101*
> 
> Just got myself up and running on a new build. Trying my hand at raid (forgive my newb-e-ness / albeit, thats why Im here). Trying to get a raid 0 array running on 2 Crucial SSDs (64gb and 128gb). I know I will only get the performance from the smallest of the 2 drives (times 2 of course). Here is my issue:
> Starting on pg 79 of the gigabyte user's manual (configuring SATA hard drives) I have no issues up until trying to configure a raid array in the raid bios. Once in the Marvell BIOS setup screen, RAID is not selectable. Meaning I can't create the VD and subsequently cannot proceed with the rest of the install.
> I have tried installing all drivers as per the disk...still not letting me creat the array in Marvell raid bois...even though I already created the array in t
> the option ROM utility.
> Have also tried a full install of windows just to get on the gigabyte website and get all drivers that the @BIOS Utility recommends.
> Additionally, notated in my device manager in "other devices", RAID controller is saying "the drivers for this device are not installed". Yes, I have tried to get the drivers by pressing "Update Drivers". Alas, no go.
> Can you NINJAs give this struggling lunatic a hand with learning a little bit about raid and where I'm scrwewing this up.
> Thanks in advance,
> Kidsdad


your using the marvel controller... look at the manual and plug the drives into connections controlled by the amd sata controller...

you will then have much less of a learning curve...


----------



## LucaoIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> ok, When you unlock your CPU, what do you do? can you post a step by step of how you did it?


Ok

1º Of course enable the Core Unlocker in the bios
2º Turn off the CoolnQuiet and C1E Support
3º Increase the CPU Voltage 1.400V to 1.425V
4º Put the clock of HT Link 2000Mhz to 1600Mhz (some say that this help to core unlock, i dont know why)
OBS:

I tried to increase voltage in CPU NB VID Control
Tried to increase the NB multiplier

I think its all maybe i am just not putting the correct values in these stuff and get unstable.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> Ok
> 1º Of course enable the Core Unlocker in the bios
> 2º Turn off the CoolnQuiet and C1E Support
> 3º Increase the CPU Voltage 1.400V to 1.425V
> 4º *Put the clock of HT Link 2000Mhz to 1600Mhz* (some say that this help to core unlock, i dont know why)
> OBS:
> I tried to increase voltage in CPU NB VID Control
> Tried to increase the NB multiplier
> I think its all maybe i am just not putting the correct values in these stuff and get unstable.


Have you made any attempts to unlock without the HT Link dropped to 1600? In my experience changing the HT link just mess's things up.
I would try it with stock HT link, 1.450v on the CPU, 1.35v on the CPU/NB and bump the CPU/NB up to 2400-2600 to start.
Are you letting the mobo auto select your memory timeings? If so manually set in all voltage's and timing info for your RAM.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Have you made any attempts to unlock without the HT Link dropped to 1600? In my experience changing the HT link just mess's things up.
> I would try it with stock HT link, 1.450v on the CPU, 1.35v on the CPU/NB and bump the CPU/NB up to 2400-2600 to start.
> Are you letting the mobo auto select your memory timeings? If so manually set in all voltage's and timing info for your RAM.


I will add that you have a thuban based chip there and most HT information is in regards to Denub based procs.

With thuban / zosma you can actually GAIN stability with HT clock increase, and most definitely a NB clock increase.

I personally (as stated not to far back in this thread) have gained stability and more clock / voltage headroom by doing just that (increasing HT clock 1:1 with NB).

Also take into account that you are unlocking cores that AMD has deemed "unworthy". You may not be able to get away with the amount of voltage a normal x6 would and will more than likley need a bit more. (say around 1.475 - 1.5) Just keep that in mind.

EDIT:

Just scrolled back to see that you are using a 555BE... as this information I have provided is a bit off at this point. However, I would still suggest following kahotic's help.

Might I suggest you take a bit of time and fill out your sig rig components... It will help future volunteers aid in your situations.


----------



## LucaoIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Have you made any attempts to unlock without the HT Link dropped to 1600? In my experience changing the HT link just mess's things up.
> I would try it with stock HT link, 1.450v on the CPU, 1.35v on the CPU/NB and bump the CPU/NB up to 2400-2600 to start.
> Are you letting the mobo auto select your memory timeings? If so manually set in all voltage's and timing info for your RAM.


I did this but can't stay less than 10 seconds with AMD Overdrive stability test

So i got some pics for you to see if that's right:

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/9572/p210312200501.jpg
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9233/p2103122005.jpg
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1871/p210312200402.jpg
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/7199/p210312200401.jpg
http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8937/p2103122004.jpg


----------



## LucaoIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I will add that you have a thuban based chip there and most HT information is in regards to Denub based procs.
> With thuban / zosma you can actually GAIN stability with HT clock increase, and most definitely a NB clock increase.
> I personally (as stated not to far back in this thread) have gained stability and more clock / voltage headroom by doing just that (increasing HT clock 1:1 with NB).
> Also take into account that you are unlocking cores that AMD has deemed "unworthy". You may not be able to get away with the amount of voltage a normal x6 would and will more than likley need a bit more. (say around 1.475 - 1.5) Just keep that in mind.
> EDIT:
> Just scrolled back to see that you are using a 555BE... as this information I have provided is a bit off at this point. However, I would still suggest following kahotic's help.
> Might I suggest you take a bit of time and fill out your sig rig components... It will help future volunteers aid in your situations.


Thanks for your help, i really though that he wouldn't help me so much =]

Edit:

I did my rig and though that the rest is not that important


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> I did this but can't stay less than 10 seconds with AMD Overdrive stability test
> So i got some pics for you to see if that's right:
> http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/9572/p210312200501.jpg
> http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/9233/p2103122005.jpg
> http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/1871/p210312200402.jpg
> http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/7199/p210312200401.jpg
> http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/8937/p2103122004.jpg


What are temps and voltage like when its running? Anything like vdroop going on? Also how are temps? I would also like too add that this mobo might not unlock your cpu even if it unlocks on a different mobo. The mobo itself also plays a part in unlock sucsess rate. So keep that in mind too. When i get home i will look at the pics you posted.


----------



## LucaoIn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> What are temps and voltage like when its running? Anything like vdroop going on? Also how are temps? I would also like too add that this mobo might not unlock your cpu even if it unlocks on a different mobo. The mobo itself also plays a part in unlock sucsess rate. So keep that in mind too. When i get home i will look at the pics you posted.


The temperature in Idle is 55º on full load not pass than 63º.

I will wait you, yeah i keep that in mind because i've seen a lot of histories that this mobo is not so sucessful in core unlocking, but i've seen some histories telling that have unlock the cores with no problem.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> The temperature in Idle is 55º on full load not pass than 63º.
> I will wait you, yeah i keep that in mind because i've seen a lot of histories that this mobo is not so sucessful in core unlocking, but i've seen some histories telling that have unlock the cores with no problem.


ok, I checked out your pic's. All I can offer at this point is random settings to try







Seems your board dose not like unlocking this CPU. If anything hit's me I'll post. I hope another member can be of more assistance than I am


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucaoIn*
> 
> The temperature in Idle is 55º on full load not pass than 63º.
> I will wait you, yeah i keep that in mind because i've seen a lot of histories that this mobo is not so sucessful in core unlocking, but i've seen some histories telling that have unlock the cores with no problem.


You will loose a LOT of stability over 50ºc... I would look further into getting your idle temps below 50ºc (closer to 45ºc without cool 'n quiet and c1e would be better).

The "unlocked" cores will by their nature tend to run hotter. Set a load temp goal of around 55ºc ~ 57ºc

I would first start with increasing your cooling capability...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> You will loose a LOT of stability over 50ºc... I would look further into getting your idle temps below 50ºc (closer to 45ºc without cool 'n quiet and c1e would be better).
> The "unlocked" cores will by their nature tend to run hotter. Set a load temp goal of around 55ºc ~ 57ºc
> I would first start with increasing your cooling capability...


Did not know the 555 reacted to temps the same as the 955+ chips when overclocking even though it has a higher thermal limit. If his thermals are to blame you might be able to check out how good of a TIM spread you have, might be able to drop a few C by perfecting it?


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Did not know the 555 reacted to temps the same as the 955+ chips when overclocking even though it has a higher thermal limit. If his thermals are to blame you might be able to check out how good of a TIM spread you have, might be able to drop a few C by perfecting it?


The 555 is a 955 with 2 cores disabled, why would it not be the same?


----------



## MadGoat

yeah, I have a x3 440 that reacts very much in the same manner as my 940 and my 1100t...

Although I will admit I had it up to 68c on the stock cooler (@ stock speeds) once and it acted like it had no problem... Any of the other chips would have told me to pound sand...

But when it came to OC'ing the little guy, anything over 55c and it hated life... (much like its bigger, younger brothers)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyadCK*
> 
> The 555 is a 955 with 2 cores disabled, why would it not be the same?


I'm know the idea is that its a 955 with two cores disabled, however its rated at a much higher thermal limit than the 955+ chips. 70c vs 62c. If the chip is actually a 955BE with two core's disabled then it wouldn't need the same voltage a 4 core 955 needs, it should be slightly less. I think there is more to the 555BE than just shutting down two cores.


----------



## MadGoat

voltage and current are 2 different things...

The core on the 555be are still designed with the same voltage in mind... however, powering less cores will require less current (watts, amperage).

The more current consumed, the higher the heat output. You can lower the current via increasing the voltage. This is what allows us to OC more over spec.

The negative effects of voltage increases is primarily the "gates" of the processor. These "gates" have to hold the current back (resistance) while the transistor is in the "off" state. The quality of these "gates" are what we run up against when applying more voltage. The "Gate" will start to "Leak" voltage over its rated resistance. This "leakage" can be read as a "on" state and cause a calculation error.

The "gates" themselves also add to the heat equation as well. Holding voltage at bay requires resistance. The larger the resistance, the more voltage you can maintain. This however (as always) creates heat. So the amplified effect of increasing voltage to drop current load hits another wall with the resistance of the power gates.

This is one of the primary focuses of processor advancement today. How to increase the resistance capability of the "gates" while decreasing size. Hence Intel's "Tri-gate" and now AMD's entry of resonant clock mesh.

Its all in an effort to decrease the voltage "leaking" via design, not size...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> voltage and current are 2 different things...
> The core on the 555be are still designed with the same voltage in mind... however, powering less cores will require less current (watts, amperage).
> The more current consumed, the higher the heat output. You can lower the current via increasing the voltage. This is what allows us to OC more over spec.
> The negative effects of voltage increases is primarily the "gates" of the processor. These "gates" have to hold the current back (resistance) while the transistor is in the "off" state. The quality of these "gates" are what we run up against when applying more voltage. The "Gate" will start to "Leak" voltage over its rated resistance. This "leakage" can be read as a "on" state and cause a calculation error.
> The "gates" themselves also add to the heat equation as well. Holding voltage at bay requires resistance. The larger the resistance, the more voltage you can maintain. This however (as always) creates heat. So the amplified effect of increasing voltage to drop current load hits another wall with the resistance of the power gates.
> This is one of the primary focuses of processor advancement today. How to increase the resistance capability of the "gates" while decreasing size. Hence Intel's "Tri-gate" and now AMD's entry of resonant clock mesh.
> Its all in an effort to decrease the voltage "leaking" via design, not size...


Derailed topic lulz, Can you explain why the dual core has a higher thermal rating over the quad core in this instance(555be vs 955be). If the 555 is identical to the 955 with only 2 core's disabled wouldn't the thermal limit still remain the same? If not then that means you could disabe two core's on the 955 and run it to 70c no problems, yes? not that I would but this is interesting to me because I have used both chips


----------



## LucaoIn

Hmmm Ok, i really appreciate your help, i'm gonna buy a new cooler for the 555BE if not help i'm gonna buy a 1100T =/

Really thanks for the help!

And i will stay seeing this topic because it is very interesting


----------



## MadGoat

Im pretty sure AMD rates most processors (In the k10 family) with a tdp of 95w or lower at 70c Max opp temp. anything higher sees 62c or lower..

I assume this has a relation to the internal core temp and the amount of thermal dissipation. The higher the tdp (minimum amount of watts needed to dissipate heat), the larger drop off in cooling capability via space constraints and ambient delta.

This is only a theory, but if you look at the tdp of AMD procs ... 95 and lower see higher Max opp temps.

I'm sure there could also be a relation to core clock, voltage and stepping as well.

those numbers I'll bet are based of the procs specs, not hardware limitations.

all goes out the window when you start tweaking...

AMD generally doesn't like anything above 50c when clocking the nuts out of it...

with the 555be on stock cooling in question...

your trying to supercharge a stock engine and testing it at wot to see if it blows... at least procs are more forgiving... you need better cooling as any performance gains in this world create heat.


----------



## madengineer92

So what does everybody think of the 990FXA-UD3?









I'm planning to get a new motherboard in the next couple of days to couple with my new FX 6100. Cause my current 880GM-USB3 sucks ass









Thoughts?


----------



## madengineer92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I
> AMD generally doesn't like anything above 50c when clocking the nuts out of it...
> /quote]
> 
> 50? I dont think so, More like 55-58.


----------



## MadGoat

The ud3 is a great board if you ask me, so so if you ask others... this thread is full of opinions and is a great resource to help make your decision.

As far as temperature is concerned, you will see a large drop off in stability and head room with AMD procs over 50c.

Not that they wouldn't operate over 50c, its really the point of diminishing returns.

Furthermore, semi-welcome to the forums...


----------



## madengineer92

Thanks for the semi-welcome









I'm hoping to get this board, because i happen to like the layout. Mostly the fact its got outward facing Sata Ports, And the PCIe slots are well spaced.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

I have had great luck with my UD3, but like MadGoat said not everyone like's it. welcome to the club


----------



## madengineer92

Well at this stage, anything will be better than my crappy 880GM









Quick question though. Does it need a Bios flash? Or is it shipped with the latest bios to use FX chips?


----------



## Aregvan

Will the 990fxa UD3 handle a six core amd OC 500-700Mhz on air with noctua d14?

I plan on switching from 965 to one of the good six cores.


----------



## Asininity

Hey, quick question.

So, I bought myself a GA-990fxa-UD5 after some trouble with a Crosshair V, because I love my UD7. Weird thing is, I plug everything up (GPU in top slot, all power cables connected, etc) and oddly all I get it a black screen. The system starts up, all the fans (including my 6970's fans running at %100), my H60 pump is running, but still a black screen. Anyone have this trouble?


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asininity*
> 
> Hey, quick question.
> So, I bought myself a GA-990fxa-UD5 after some trouble with a Crosshair V, because I love my UD7. Weird thing is, I plug everything up (GPU in top slot, all power cables connected, etc) and oddly all I get it a black screen. The system starts up, all the fans (including my 6970's fans running at %100), my H60 pump is running, but still a black screen. Anyone have this trouble?


Try reseating your video card. You can also unplug everything except the CPU and then gradually add things until something definitely fails.

WW


----------



## Cyntil8ing

Hi, Anyone know if the variable speed control of the sys_fan controller works properly? Some boards are notorious for only keeping them at full speed.

I am thinking of getting of getting a PWM fan controller as a hub and would appreciate some suggestions from those that have used them 1st hand.

I will be using a UD3 BTW.

Thanks


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyntil8ing*
> 
> Hi, Anyone know if the variable speed control of the sys_fan controller works properly? Some boards are notorious for only keeping them at full speed.
> I am thinking of getting of getting a PWM fan controller as a hub and would appreciate some suggestions from those that have used them 1st hand.
> I will be using a UD3 BTW.
> Thanks


I use the Rheosmart as a PWM hub on my UD3. Works perfect for me. Took some time to set up but it works just fine.


----------



## Aregvan

Does the NB use thermal pad or paste on the UD3? I could remove the heatsink, but too much work.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyntil8ing*
> 
> Hi, Anyone know if the variable speed control of the sys_fan controller works properly? Some boards are notorious for only keeping them at full speed.
> I am thinking of getting of getting a PWM fan controller as a hub and would appreciate some suggestions from those that have used them 1st hand.
> I will be using a UD3 BTW.
> Thanks


I can confirm that the board does control both the cpu and sys fan targets correctly. I currently have all 3 of the 180mm case fans in my RV02 controlled via the sys fan headers. The Cpu header works very well in both PWM and voltage control situations.

As fan as the north bridge cooling pad / paste... I know there was a fellow OC'er (or two) earlier in this thread that had taken off the heatsink for one reason or another... I believe it was a cooling pad that was found. I'll try to look for it...

EDIT:

Well I found this from the 990XA forum...

The 990XA-ud3 uses the same northbridge heatsink... so i would assume it has the same thermal pad... scroll down and you can see the stock black thermal pad...

Strange thing is none of the TMPIN temps on the ud3 I have get above 55c under any load...

ADDED: Whoa, I don't know what I was thinking...

under prime load what Temp 2 (cpu temp) get over 60... core temp doesn't go over 50

NB temp (temp 3) never goes over 50 either... huh... interesting..


----------



## Cyntil8ing

Thanks *KhaoticKomputing* for the PWM hub suggestion and
*MadGoat* for the confirmation on the Sys_Fan headers.

*@KhaoticKomputing*

Yeah, it was a toss up between the _Sunbeamtech Rheosmart 6 Fan Controller_ and _Zalman ZM-MFC1 Combo_ but since you've tried the Rheosmart and got it to work right, I think I'll stick with that as well. Besides, the wording of the Zalman seemed a bit vague at best. I can't tell if all the headers will work in unison as PWM or just 1. The pin layout of the Zalman wasn't much help either. 1 4 pin and 4 3 pins for a 5 channel controller vs the Rheosmat's 1 4 pin and 6 3 pin for a 6 channel controller

You mentioned "Took some time to set up but it works just fine." Is there something in particular about the controller I should know about before ordering it? The pin layout seems pretty straightforward from the pics I've seen. Did you mean the cable management routing to it perhaps?

Thanks again guys. I appreciate the suggestion and confirmation.


----------



## idonthavefleas

the bigest hate for me on this mobo is the placment of the sata headers.in my case there very hard to use


----------



## Aregvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idonthavefleas*
> 
> the bigest hate for me on this mobo is the placment of the sata headers.in my case there very hard to use


Same, attach the cable to the mobo, than place the mobo in the case.

Sounds weird, but makes things a bit easier.


----------



## idonthavefleas

yeah thats what i did weird thing is the sata cables they had in box the ones with the right angle plug is set to point the wrong way towards case mobo tray


----------



## Aregvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idonthavefleas*
> 
> yeah thats what i did weird thing is the sata cables they had in box the ones with the right angle plug is set to point the wrong way towards case mobo tray


Oh yeah LOL, I guess use the right angle on the HDD, unless both ends were right, don't remember.


----------



## idonthavefleas

i wanted the right angle on the board because i only have like 1/2 inch of space between the mobo and hard rive encloser.. this is the first mobo i payed for i alwasy got the frees ones that frys gave with CPU purchase. i am also wondering about the high wattage of the mobo cpu combo i pull near 340 watts under load runing intel burn test


----------



## madengineer92

I just bought a 3 month old FXA UD7 for $140pp. about 80$









The guy originally paid 300 for it









Anyways, How well do these perform with the FX chips? And which Sata ports are best for OCZ SSDs?


----------



## Nitrogannex

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2309771

Hey Guys, I was just wondering, if you look in the Validation, the Voltage is at around 1.53, is there a reason that the voltage automatically goes up, everything in the Bios is set to manual and the Vcore SHOULD only be at 1.45, i was thinking something to do with LLC, but i'm new, so i have 0 Ideas on how to fix this


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitrogannex*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2309771
> Hey Guys, I was just wondering, if you look in the Validation, the Voltage is at around 1.53, is there a reason that the voltage automatically goes up, everything in the Bios is set to manual and the Vcore SHOULD only be at 1.45, i was thinking something to do with LLC, but i'm new, so i have 0 Ideas on how to fix this


What is your LLC set to?


----------



## legionofone22

If anyone was curious, I have a UD7 rev 1.0. I was originally having a problem with my 8120 where when overclocked and AMD MASTER MODE set to disabled in bios the computer would perform properly and not downclock during stress testing. Now I noticed when the computer was put into S3 sleep and resumed and restress tested the cpu throttle as if AMD APM MASTER MODE was now set to disable. ONLY S3 sleep caused this issue, restart, shutdown and hibernation all kept the setting as disabled. I worked with Gigabyte to get this fixed and after a long wait there is a new beta bios they provided me to test and it alleviated the issue. Its beta bios F8L. If anyone would like a copy just pm me, figured I would share the resolution.


----------



## Nitrogannex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> What is your LLC set to?


Auto, you can choose between Auto, Normal, High Ultra High etc.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitrogannex*
> 
> Auto, you can choose between Auto, Normal, High Ultra High etc.


There is an amazing chance you will have some Vdroop with out LLC (mine is 0.10v). I would set it to normal/low You almost have too much voltage for a save 24/7 usage. Are you familiar with out LLC works or what it dose?


----------



## Nitrogannex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> There is an amazing chance you will have some Vdroop with out LLC (mine is 0.10v). I would set it to normal/low You almost have too much voltage for a save 24/7 usage. Are you familiar with out LLC works or what it dose?


heh heh....no...lol, isn't it basically to keep voltage in check so it doesn't go all wonky

also, it scales accordingly because i figured that it could not be reviving enough volts so it would automatically up them, so i set it to 1.5 in bios and i hit 1.6 in CPUz (which scared me a little, even though temps weren't a problem, i knew that wasn't safe)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitrogannex*
> 
> heh heh....no...lol, isn't it basically to keep voltage in check so it doesn't go all wonky
> also, it scales accordingly because i figured that it could not be reviving enough volts so it would automatically up them, so i set it to 1.5 in bios and i hit 1.6 in CPUz (which scared me a little, even though temps weren't a problem, i knew that wasn't safe)


Yea, LLC is to keep the Voltage from Drooping (Vdroop). Almost every mobo on the market has a little bit of Vdroop. The idea is when your PC is under heavy load your voltage will Droop down low. This can cause all kinds of problems so you can use LLC to compensate and try to keep the voltage at a nice nominal level. You however are experiencing the down side to LLC, Vboos. This is what make's LLC a problem when not set up properly. It can actually do its job so well the voltage raise's to an unsafe level, like what your having now with your voltage jumping to 1.53. That is just a hair away from a not nice 24/7 voltage. What you want to do is try to find the LLC setting that allows you to keep your voltage as close to what ever you set in the BIOS.

1.6v is way to high. I would try to LLV on low or off if you can. If you turn it off you can get a feeling for how bad your Vdroop is or isn't. Good luck!


----------



## guitar_man_94

Hey guys thinking of getting the 990FXA UD5 but heard about the vdroop issues due to no llc. For those that didn't know it looks like the rev1.1 does indeed have llc added.
It is shown in this review http://www.funkykit.com/about-us/8486-review-gigabyte-990fxa-ud5-am3-motherboard.html?start=4
Hopes this helps anyone thinking of getting this board.


----------



## rawsteel

AMD Chipset Drivers are out to 12.3 http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownloa...d_windows.aspx


----------



## wpzzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel*
> 
> AMD Chipset Drivers are out to 12.3 http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownloa...d_windows.aspx


Bad Request

FTFY http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx


----------



## spyder66

I bought a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3, AMD Phenom II 560 BE was one that Gigabyte MA770-UD3 worked perfectly, and the four core unlocked. But since there is a new motherboard since then only a few minutes to run Windows, then freezes, no BSOD when I start Prime95 will immediately freeze.
Someone has any idea?


----------



## C6ZR1

hey guys, just wondering if anyone else has a UD7 mobo and a fx 8120 OC'd.

If so, what ghz did you reach @ what voltage? Considering OCing mine and it'll be my first OC so any advise would help


----------



## Nitrogannex

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2313520 I messed with my LLC and my voltage, even though it still has a bit of vboost (it should be at 1.475, it jumps between 1.488 and 1.508) it is a lot more manageable, shame i got such a crappy chip, ah well, at least it unlocked


----------



## cmac68

GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.1.0 and rev.1.1 beta bios version F6k now availible.

rev.1.0
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894#bios

rev.1.1
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3996#bios


----------



## rawsteel

F7n is out for those of you with a UD5


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmac68*
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.1.0 and rev.1.1 beta bios version F6k now availible.
> rev.1.0
> http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894#bios
> rev.1.1
> http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3996#bios


+rep

thanks for the heads up...

wonder what is new...


----------



## kzone75

Well for the f6k bios.. If I set the voltage to 1.425 in the bios (for 4.4-4.6 GHz like I normally use) cpuz reports 1.376v. A big bump in voltage in the bios only shows a minor bump in cpuz... But 1.376 (1.360v under load) ain't all bad for a well over 1GHz OC, considering that my cpu has a stock VID of 1.35v.


----------



## idonthavefleas

about the beta bios im reading on another forum something about ACHI bios. being new in the bios or something its in germen and i dont speak it .id post link but im afraid id get in trouble.i found it with google easly


----------



## idonthavefleas

i think i see a faster boot speed but im not sure like a dummy i timed the old bios with cd as first boot device. any of you all notice a boot speed increase?in windows 8 i can boot and be at this forum in less then 30 seconds. so far i like this bios ill tell ya if i see any drawbacks


----------



## frostedflakes

Has anyone messed around with the AMD SB950 RAID on this board? Does anyone else notice a big performance drop for SSD when you change the AMD SATA ports from AHCI to RAID mode? For example, a single Crucial m4 hooked up to the SB950 will get about 450MB/s sequential read in AHCI mode, but in RAID mode only about 350MB/s. Made sure that the AMD AHCI compatible RAID drivers are installed and installed RAIDXpert to enable NCQ. Performance in RAID mode is still a ton slower than AHCI mode. My understanding was that with the proper drivers, a single disk with the mobo set to RAID mode should behave just as it should in AHCI mode.

This is really driving me nuts, would like to make a RAID 5 array on the SB950 but don't want to sacrifice SSD performance when running in RAID mode. I'd just hook the SSD up to one of the Marvell 9172 ports to avoid this headache but they seem to have performance issues as well, they seem to either run in IDE or RAID mode, there's an option to run them in AHCI mode but it doesn't seem to work, when booting up with them set to AHCI the BIOS will detect them as IDE and performance is not what it should be for AHCI mode, again get transfer rates of about 350MB/s. And even if everything was working as it should, the GSATA might bottleneck me slightly since they're connected to the southbridge by a PCI-E 1x (500MB/s) lane. The optimal solution would be the stick with the AMD SB950 ports for the SSD.

Also sorry if this has already been covered earlier in the thread.


----------



## idonthavefleas

wanna here something crazier? turn off cool and quiet and rerun ya test i have same drive and get over 500 megs per second in crystal mark


----------



## MadGoat

Also, If your running raid... be sure to enable the "raid 5" option regardless if your using raid 5 or not...

This enables the hardware portion of the raid controller... you will need to reinstall drivers.... and you will see your performance back...


----------



## frostedflakes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idonthavefleas*
> 
> wanna here something crazier? turn off cool and quiet and rerun ya test i have same drive and get over 500 megs per second in crystal mark


Lol wow, that's just weird. Didn't quite get up to 500MB/s, but just by disabling CnQ went from about 450MB/s in CrystalDiskMark to 493MB/s.

MadGoat, I believe the RAID 5 option was enabled in the BIOS before and it didn't seem to help.

Thanks for the tips, guys, I'll have to mess around with it more, maybe tweaking the power options will allow me to get more performance out of the SSD in RAID mode as well. Even though I can't possibly imagine how disabling CnQ would improve disk performance, but apparently it does so I'll have to mess around with those options more (never bothered trying to disable CnQ, C6E, stuff like that before).

Any other insights would be welcome if people have other ideas for squeezing more performance out of the SB950 or Marvell 9172 controller with an SSD.


----------



## idonthavefleas

bad thing is power usage goes way up with out cool and quiet.the idle wattage on mine goes up 70 watts or so full load watts a curse stay the same


----------



## bcudasteve

Well, here it is April 1st, no BD 8170 release yet.
However did find an interesting article about an upcoming 8-core Phenom II
(45nm process)

http://translate.google.de/translate?u=http%3A//www.planet3dnow.de/cgi-bin/newspub/viewnews.cgi%3Fid%3D1333238908&sl=de&tl=en&hl=de&ie=UTF-8

Have a great day all.
Steve

(or is this an April Fools joke?)


----------



## Nitrogannex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Well, here it is April 1st, no BD 8170 release yet.
> However did find an interesting article about an upcoming 8-core Phenom II
> (45nm process)
> http://translate.google.de/translate?u=http%3A//www.planet3dnow.de/cgi-bin/newspub/viewnews.cgi%3Fid%3D1333238908&sl=de&tl=en&hl=de&ie=UTF-8
> Have a great day all.
> Steve
> (or is this an April Fools joke?)


Dear Santa.........


----------



## zyzup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmac68*
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.1.0 and rev.1.1 beta bios version F6k now availible.
> rev.1.0
> http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894#bios
> rev.1.1
> http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3996#bios


I'm having issues upgrading my bios to F6k. I have the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.1.1 and when I run the autoexec it says:

The program or feature cannot start or run due to incompatibility with 64-bit versions of windows. Please contact the software vendor to ask if a 64-bit Windows compatible version is available.

Has anyone else running windows 7 64-bit had this problem? Does anyone know if there is fix out there? I've emailed gigabyte asking but they haven't got back to me.


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zyzup*
> 
> I'm having issues upgrading my bios to F6k. I have the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.1.1 and when I run the autoexec it says:
> The program or feature cannot start or run due to incompatibility with 64-bit versions of windows. Please contact the software vendor to ask if a 64-bit Windows compatible version is available.
> Has anyone else running windows 7 64-bit had this problem? Does anyone know if there is fix out there? I've emailed gigabyte asking but they haven't got back to me.


Then flash it from bios with a usb stick. What's the problem?


----------



## MadGoat

anyone have any news on f6k? Features... OC ability? Voltages?

Just curious...


----------



## idonthavefleas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> anyone have any news on f6k? Features... OC ability? Voltages?
> Just curious...


to me its boots faster spending less time on the bios screen


----------



## cmac68

F6k seems to have added support for FX-4200 and FX-6200, updated to AGESA 1.2.0.2. Haven't really noticed any performance changes other than my FX-8120 peaks at 1.38v under 100% load instead of 1.40v and was able to squeeze out a bit more clock speed at the same voltage.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2312678


----------



## sumitlian

New BIOS F7n for Gigabyte 990FXA UD5 has been released.
http://Www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#bios

It says, Update CPU AGESA 1.2.0.2


----------



## moonmanas

F7n seems to have exactly the same restart time as F7h


----------



## Wild Wally

The 8m BIOS is out for the GA-990FXA-UD7. Has anyone else had issues with this? My PCI-E SSD will no longer boot. Seems as though the operating system no longer loads the appropriate drivers. Fortunately I have another installation of Win 7 on a regular HD and it boots just fine.

Any way to incorporate hardware drivers into the boot sequence? All BIOS settings are the same as before.

Thanks in advance,

WW


----------



## thomaske360

Does à 990fxa-ud3 directly out of THE box support an fx 8120? (i'm kinda new first gigabyte Mobo)


----------



## otakunorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomaske360*
> 
> Does à 990fxa-ud3 directly out of THE box support an fx 8120? (i'm kinda new first gigabyte Mobo)


Depends when it was manufactured, if its from the first batch, no. If its from a revision after 1.0 then it should


----------



## thomaske360

How do i recongize an revision 1.1 or 1.2?


----------



## thomaske360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otakunorth*
> 
> Depends when it was manufactured, if its from the first batch, no. If its from a revision after 1.0 then it should


How do i recongize them


----------



## Nitrogannex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomaske360*
> 
> How do i recongize them


look in the bottom left corner of the Mobo, i should be in white and say *Rev X.X* only with numbers


----------



## thomaske360

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nitrogannex*
> 
> look in the bottom left corner of the Mobo, i should be in white and say *Rev X.X* only with numbers


Thnx:thumb:


----------



## Nitrogannex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thomaske360*
> 
> Thnx:thumb:


No Problem Bro


----------



## mystikalrush

New bios i see, trust worthy yet?


----------



## Wild Wally

Anybody know how to load device drivers via the boot sequence? I flashed my UD-7 to 8m BIOS and now my SSD won't boot. Flashing back doesn't solve the problem.









WW


----------



## stickyittoyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *otakunorth*
> 
> Depends when it was manufactured, if its from the first batch, no. If its from a revision after 1.0 then it should


So more than likely the one I ordered back in 7/11/11 is a first batch one? ... so I wont be able to use the AM3+ CPU's that it ever so SAID it would run?! That's false advertising!

Not even a BIOS flash allows it to support it?


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Anybody know how to load device drivers via the boot sequence? I flashed my UD-7 to 8m BIOS and now my SSD won't boot. Flashing back doesn't solve the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WW


See if the flash changed your SATA mode from ACHI to IDE, or vice-versa. I bet that's what's wrong.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickyittoyou*
> 
> So more than likely the one I ordered back in 7/11/11 is a first batch one? ... so I wont be able to use the AM3+ CPU's that it ever so SAID it would run?! That's false advertising!
> Not even a BIOS flash allows it to support it?


A bios flash should fix it. But a BD cpu may not be able to be used TO flash it, depending on the age of the bios.


----------



## stickyittoyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyadCK*
> 
> See if the flash changed your SATA mode from ACHI to IDE, or vice-versa. I bet that's what's wrong.
> A bios flash should fix it. But a BD cpu may not be able to be used TO flash it, depending on the age of the bios.


Well I have the latest stable BIOS, but it is looking as though I will need the F6k. Once I have that it "will" be supported. Glad I can invest in a decent processor now.


----------



## damon666

Yes most places sell the rev 1.1 which has the FX support so you can slap the processor in right out of the box got mine from newegg.com 3 weeks ago:thumb:


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyadCK*
> 
> See if the flash changed your SATA mode from ACHI to IDE, or vice-versa. I bet that's what's wrong.
> A bios flash should fix it. But a BD cpu may not be able to be used TO flash it, depending on the age of the bios.


Thanks for the reply KyadCK but that was one of the first things I checked. I'm not sure what caused the problem but I was able to straighten it out with the help of the guys on the OCZ forum. Basically, I had to disconnect all my other drives except for the PCI-E RevoX2 and then run the Win7 repair console from a USB stick. I guess the automatic repair routine gets confused when there are a bunch of other drives around or just doesn't play well with PCI-E based drives.

Actually, this is the second time it happened to me while flashing the BIOS. The first time it was an easy fix. All I had to do was reflash the old BIOS and change the boot order of the hard drives. No dice this time though. Seems like nothing is simple when you have an oddball SSD like I do.









WW


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Thanks for the reply KyadCK but that was one of the first things I checked. I'm not sure what caused the problem but I was able to straighten it out with the help of the guys on the OCZ forum. Basically, I had to disconnect all my other drives except for the PCI-E RevoX2 and then run the Win7 repair console from a USB stick. I guess the automatic repair routine gets confused when there are a bunch of other drives around or just doesn't play well with PCI-E based drives.
> Actually, this is the second time it happened to me while flashing the BIOS. The first time it was an easy fix. All I had to do was reflash the old BIOS and change the boot order of the hard drives. No dice this time though. Seems like nothing is simple when you have an oddball SSD like I do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WW


Well at least you got it fixed, but that's a nasty work around.


----------



## wpzzz

I am having an issue with having 2 NVIDIA graphics cards installed (for the purpose of running a third display), there is no SLI, nor any possibility of such due to the two cards being of differing series. The cards I have installed are, a NVIDIA GTX460SE and an NVIDIA 7200/7300GS - which are located in PCIE16_1 and PCIE4_2 respectively.

My issue is that when I restart (from an otherwise perfectly stable system), the BIOS posts fine but the computer stops and my monitors all power-off, right when the login screen would normally show. The 'starting windows' screen displays fine and performing a cold-boot is my current remedy.

Would there be any advice from overclock.net GA-990FXA-users? Should I move the cards to different PCIE slots? Does anyone else have any similar problems?

Many thanks

EDIT: Accidentally some grammar


----------



## 636cc of fury

Has anyone else had issues with core unlocking on the 990FX UD3?

I am a noob when it comes to the AMD side of things and figured core unlocking would be a simple affair but no luck. One thing I did notice is this board has massive vdroop, even with LLC enabled (High, Ultra or Extreme) on bios F6K.

Maybe try a different stable bios?


----------



## chemojay

I have had no problem. I have unlocked a 555 and a 960t. The 555 dual core unlocked though would not run stable on this board where as it did on my 770 ud3. The 960t is unlocked to 6 cores and running at 3.8xx ghz with 16 gb of ram at 1600 speed with timings of 9 9 9 27 36


----------



## spyder66

Quote:


> Has anyone else had issues with core unlocking on the 990FX UD3?
> 
> I am a noob when it comes to the AMD side of things and figured core unlocking would be a simple affair but no luck. One thing I did notice is this board has massive vdroop, even with LLC enabled (High, Ultra or Extreme) on bios F6K.
> 
> Maybe try a different stable bios?


I have the same problem.
Quote:


> I have had no problem. I have unlocked a 555 and a 960t. The 555 dual core unlocked though would not run stable on this board where as it did on my 770 ud3. The 960t is unlocked to 6 cores and running at 3.8xx ghz with 16 gb of ram at 1600 speed with timings of 9 9 9 27 36


what bios are using?


----------



## johny24

I had a 555 and it only ever showed 2 cores. Then I sold it a guy who managed to unlock it on his motherboard which I believe was an Asus


----------



## tibbs1cat

Hi guys, advice please, any of you aware of your GA-990FXA and a high pitched noise from the PSU when watching movies or on some web pages that contain videos etc? My 3 month old Gigabyte GA890 had it (until it blew a fan header) but only when I overclocked the CPU voltage somewhat, the higher the voltage the louder the noise, I swapped for a sabertooth but the the noise is much worse, more than I can live with, ive tried another PSU and its still there, removing the video card makes no differance its 100% a PSU noise somehow related to the motherboard, so if none of you guys appear to be having issues from yours I'm going to order the GA-990FXA-UD5.
would love to hear from anybody who ether has or hasn't experienced the noise.
Thanks in advance
Ben


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tibbs1cat*
> 
> Hi guys, advice please, any of you aware of your GA-990FXA and a high pitched noise from the PSU when watching movies or on some web pages that contain videos etc? My 3 month old Gigabyte GA890 had it (until it blew a fan header) but only when I overclocked the CPU voltage somewhat, the higher the voltage the louder the noise, I swapped for a sabertooth but the the noise is much worse, more than I can live with, ive tried another PSU and its still there, removing the video card makes no differance its 100% a PSU noise somehow related to the motherboard, so if none of you guys appear to be having issues from yours I'm going to order the GA-990FXA-UD5.
> would love to hear from anybody who ether has or hasn't experienced the noise.
> Thanks in advance
> Ben


I have a UD7 and have never heard any uncommon noise from the PSU. Sounds like a fan running too fast to me... I burn videos, recode them, etc all the time with no issues. My PSU is a Corsair HX850 and it seems to have plenty of juice for my fans, hard drives (up to 10), 6950 radeon and an overclocked FX 8150. Of course I only run one video card:thumb:


----------



## MadGoat

Corsair HX850 here as well, no noise. My motherboard (-UD3) will squeal when the proc is fully stressed under certain work units. And my Video card will squeal with higher load as well. Not the PSU however.


----------



## stickyittoyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tibbs1cat*
> 
> Hi guys, advice please, any of you aware of your GA-990FXA and a high pitched noise from the PSU when watching movies or on some web pages that contain videos etc? My 3 month old Gigabyte GA890 had it (until it blew a fan header) but only when I overclocked the CPU voltage somewhat, the higher the voltage the louder the noise, I swapped for a sabertooth but the the noise is much worse, more than I can live with, ive tried another PSU and its still there, removing the video card makes no differance its 100% a PSU noise somehow related to the motherboard, so if none of you guys appear to be having issues from yours I'm going to order the GA-990FXA-UD5.
> would love to hear from anybody who ether has or hasn't experienced the noise.
> Thanks in advance
> Ben


I actually have noticed a small pitch coming from my processors fan. I even opened up my case to confirm this and that is all it was. Then again the 965BE's fan sounds like a jet engine if you don't have the proper ventilation. (found that out after I accidentally didn't plug in my side and top fan). Either way if it's a capacitor on its last leg you can re-solder a replacement one on.







It's not too hard.

I am going to be upgrading to the FX-6200 and I plan on getting a decently big heat sink and fan to keep it cool.

I upgraded my BIOS to the F6K and I immediately noticed Windows loading up MUCH faster.

AMD Phenom II X4 965 BE
GA-990FXA-UD3
8 gigabytes Corsair @ 1600 Mhz 9-9-9-24 1.5v
AZZA Solano 1000 Case
2x EVGA GTX 560 FTW+ in SLi


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickyittoyou*
> 
> I actually have noticed a small pitch coming from my processors fan. I even opened up my case to confirm this and that is all it was. Then again the 965BE's fan sounds like a jet engine if you don't have the proper ventilation. (found that out after I accidentally didn't plug in my side and top fan). Either way if it's a capacitor on its last leg you can re-solder a replacement one on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not too hard.
> I am going to be upgrading to the FX-6200 and I plan on getting a decently big heat sink and fan to keep it cool.
> I upgraded my BIOS to the F6K and I immediately noticed Windows loading up MUCH faster.
> AMD Phenom II X4 965 BE
> GA-990FXA-UD3
> 8 gigabytes Corsair @ 1600 Mhz 9-9-9-24 1.5v
> AZZA Solano 1000 Case
> 2x EVGA GTX 560 FTW+ in SLi


OH?!

So over all you'd say that F6k is an improvement?

I've been tip toeing around trying it out, my last experience (think it was F6c? idk) was of the "not so good nature". Any quirks or kinks you can mention about F6K?

Currently on F5 with a small list of things I'd hope could improve... Not game changers however and more than "liveable".


----------



## stickyittoyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> OH?!
> So over all you'd say that F6k is an improvement?
> I've been tip toeing around trying it out, my last experience (think it was F6c? idk) was of the "not so good nature". Any quirks or kinks you can mention about F6K?
> Currently on F5 with a small list of things I'd hope could improve... Not game changers however and more than "liveable".


It is for me. I use to see a blinking " _ " symbol on the top left of the screen for roughly 5-7 seconds then my monitor going into power save mode for 3-5 seconds. After that I would see the Windows 7 logo come up and I would wait roughly 10-12 seconds. Then Windows 7 would finally load up annnnnnnnnnd then I wait for my user icon to show up (another 3-5 seconds). Then finally I would be up. Now I would say it's around 20 seconds instead of 30 for me.

(Don't go by me I did not have a stop watch for this hahah It's basically what it felt like, I'll see about timing it out sometime here. What is that program you guys where using earlier in this thread?) Also note that I am coming from the last legit BIOS release.

Another big change I noticed in the BIOS is that there are Overclocking Profiles for RAM. I tried it on my Mushkin Redline 996999... but IT DID NOT LIKE IT!

All in all I like it over the past version, I haven't had issues so far. (We'll see once I get the FX-6200)


----------



## kzone75

F6k takes a little longer to boot for me. I get to see the "welcome" screen for about a second now. Didn't do that with F6c. But the voltage needed is much lower with the newer BIOS, which is kind of cool.


----------



## stickyittoyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> F6k takes a little longer to boot for me. I get to see the "welcome" screen for about a second now. Didn't do that with F6c. But the voltage needed is much lower with the newer BIOS, which is kind of cool.


Weird how it was faster for me. What Processor, RAM, and HDD speed do you have?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickyittoyou*
> 
> What is that program you guys where using earlier in this thread?)


right on, that's good to know... thanks.

I think the Boot Timer you are referring to is here.

Added: Above are good instruction on how to use the app, However THIS is a better download that doesn't require the locked adware addition Shtuff you don't want.

Although this app will monitor windows boot time, it has no way of calculating the amount of time spent in the BIOS during start-up.

Little Shot of what the app say's my boot time is:


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickyittoyou*
> 
> Weird how it was faster for me. What Processor, RAM, and HDD speed do you have?


FX-8120 at 4.5GHz, Corsair XMS3 @ 2156MHz and a Kingston HyperX ssd. Will have to try this http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/720-restart-time.html to see if there really is a difference.


----------



## MadGoat

Aannnddd... Because I'm bored... lol


----------



## stickyittoyou

Hmmmmm I'll time mine when I get back home. I will time it from post.


----------



## kzone75

Reboot time showed exactly the same 32 secs. Will try boot timer now.. Think it takes longer than before because I changed the boot logo to a different one..









EDIT: F6k is indeed faster. By a lot even. F6c gave me a 19.609 secs boot time and F6k 13.681. Doesn't feel that much faster.

*Epic post count!*


----------



## happynutz420

Does anyone know an estimate on when the 1090FX series will be released? All i have found so far is "2012"


----------



## cmac68

Q3 2012. Should release before Pildriver CPU's. If I had to guess I would say late August or early September.


----------



## happynutz420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmac68*
> 
> Q3 2012. Should release before Pildriver CPU's. If I had to guess I would say late August or early September.


sounds like a good estimate, thanks!


----------



## stasio

GA-990FXA series final BIOS available for download on GB web page in 1 hour time (35 min).


----------



## MadGoat

Yep,

-UD3 F6

-UD5 F7

-UD7 F8


----------



## kzone75

Nope


----------



## MadGoat

use Europe link or Asia...

They are updating the links.


----------



## ebduncan

hmms i might have to give the new bios a try.

been running F5 for awhile now. I tried f6c, and the other f6's didn't like them.

F5+ mr phenom's tweaker for custom cool and quiet has been my meal ticket.

Guess i will try the Official f6, and maybe the f6k. Will try that on the weekend, and report back. I don't want to mess with them during the week, as i have stuff to do and games to play, and i must have a stable system


----------



## kzone75

Guess I'll have to wait a while then. Only gives me "The document name you requested (/FileList/BIOS/mb_bios_ga-990fxa-ud3_f6.exe) could not be found on this server. However, we found documents with names similar to the one you requested." on all links.

Edit: ok Got it now but why can IE find it but Chrome can't?


----------



## MadGoat

HERE is a mirror for now...

This is -UD3 Rev 1.0 F6


----------



## kzone75

F6 seems to be ok, except for the CPU Voltage Control shows the wrong reading. My normal CPU Vcore is 1.350v. I put the CPU Voltage Control to +0.100v which gives me 1.45v. PC Health Status in the BIOS shows 1.376v and CPUZ 1.376v. I usually need 1.424v for a 4.5GHz But I guess this means well for the power consumption.


----------



## MadGoat

hmmm, interesting...

Maybe Turbo boost issue? That is strange...


----------



## kzone75

Could be, but I have that turned off and everything that saves power also. But yes, it's strange.


----------



## Fordox

I also have the F6 bios with the same voltage read-out problem. I also had it with the F6k béta bios.
On the F5 bios was no such problem with my set-up.

It's quite annoying since my hardware doesn't support LLC for an odd reason. according to Gigabyte, my hardware doesn't support it
I have a UD3 board with a FX-8150 processor and corsair vengeance 1866 memory. nothing that I believe that doesn't support LLC.

Excuse me for my english, I'm dutch.


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

I don't think the 1090 FX chipset will come in Q3, I think its scheduled for Q2.
You can't even buy the 990fx UD7 any more its been recalled / discontinued here in OZ!

Oh and yeah I've noticed their is a new BIOS up date out







im going to try it!

P.s I got my XSPC 240RX water setup







alot better than this china one i had







4700mhz on all 8 cores @ 1.45volts (drops from 1.52v) and temps are 52c under full load 'hoping to drop a few more degrees when the paste settles


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

okay I tired it... and well no improvements from the 7h BIOS.

Volt drop is a huge issue with these boards, I would not recommend anyone goes out their way to purchase one.


----------



## thfallen

what v drop on a ud7 i dont got any at all i guess i am lucky i did have a little on my 960t but now that i have 8120 in it i there is none.


----------



## happynutz420

I just updated my Bios from ver. f6f to f6. and my CPU voltage has jumped from the usual stock 1.35v to 1.4125v at stock setting, and i only need 1.40v for my OC but i cant get it set there because of the normal voltage being 1.4125. anyone else have this problem? it was fine on f6f, but i just reverted back to the f6f and now its still at the 1.4125v. *** is up with this?
I have regretted buying this board from day 1, now i have to either go with 1.387v or 1.4125 for a 4.4ghz OC.
Is everyone having some sort of problem with the new BIOS?


----------



## happynutz420

Apparently it was just giving me an inaccurate reading of the Vcore, after a BSOD, i went back to bios and it read that i was at 1.325v, so i set it back to 1.40v and tested it out and im running normal, very strange. As i said i reverted back to the f6f bios, so i wonder if it was just a one time thing or if that is a common problem with the f6 bios, if anyone has any info let me know. Sorry for the rant in the earlier post but as i said this board has been pissing me off since day 1 lol.


----------



## Supranium

This happens if you flash new bios while youre on overclocked PC. You need either to double reset or clear cmos after flash







.

Im new member to the club. Just yesterday i got my new UD3 and 1045T. Chose PII over 4core Bulldozer, since price/perf was better.
Spent half day yesterday to get my stable settings worked out. Im now sitting on

3900mhz CPU (300x13)
3000mhz NB
2400 HT
1600 8-8-8-24-1T, Samsung 30nm, 2x4Gb sticks.
vCPU 1.45v
vNB 1.16v
vDDR 1.62v
vNB-CPU 1.4v
rest on "normal"

C1 and AMD Q&Q is enabled.

Happy with my OC and Mobo. Threres couple of pros and cons, but on overall its good value for money and i was really interested getting back to AMD again. Belive me or not but i came back to AMD from Asus P8P67 Deluxe and 2600K combo.









Im skipping BD and hopefully get one Vishera in autumn.


----------



## tibbs1cat

Thanks for your help guys, Im back online now after taking the plunge and ordering the GA-990FXA-UD5, so far mixed feelings about the board compared to the sabertooth and GA-890GPA-UD3H it replaces, firstly from first boot, well it wouldn't, tried several times but just said 'loading operating system' but would not go from their, I narrowed it down to my WD20EARS slave drive, when it was plugged in it would not boot, so after unplugging it, updating all the drivers etc for the UD5 it now can see the drive but insists I format it before use! it had all my music and 150 movies! not happy on a plus though the PSU noise is much as my first Giga board, the more Volts the louder the noise, so im staying below 1.3v for the cpu.

Also *System / motherboard Temps* can i ask you guys what your readings are in ET6 or HWmonitor? mine is sitting at around *45-70c* in both progs! now considering my two previous boards temps idled at around 26c im a bit concerned, even with all 10 fans flat out it wont go below 38, I've found the sensor on the board (next to SYS_FAN1 header) and it is hot! as in i cant keep my finger on it for more than a few seconds, blasting it with a high pressure air bed pump saw it sharply drop from 49 to 32 but instantly shot up to mid 40s when I turned it off, is this normal temps for the UD5?

Thanks again
Ben


----------



## Nitrogannex

nevermind....


----------



## Fordox

45 to 70 C is not bad for your hardware. it isn't a cpu that must be under 65 degrees, it can take around the 80-90 degrees, but yes. it's still hot and i do not recommend overclocking with those temps.

And for the weird voltage read-outs when you flashed a new bios, it is because your turbo is still enabled. disable it, restart, go back in the bios and it should be on the normal 1,3 volts.

Does anyone know where to measure on the board the actual vcore?


----------



## happynutz420

turbo is always off, its fixed now though, but thanks


----------



## kzone75

And we're back using the F6c BIOS. F6 started giving me random reboots (no BSODs) and it constantly tried to do a system repair (it scanned for about 5 seconds and said it couldn't repair).







Thought it would be the SSD giving up on me at first or a broken Windows 7, but it's running fine right now. Reinstalled Windows and it didn't take long for a random reboot. And at stock settings even. I tried another SSD with the same results.

Maybe F6c is the only one that likes me.









If someone else get similar issues with F6 then please let me know.


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

VERY FRUSTRATED!! getting a checksum=a600 when trying to bios flash...hit ok to continue and it flashes bios and passes....but im not getting the LLC control in bios and still getting terrible droop


----------



## battlenut

I would just like to know all the setting that someone here has. I want an overclock of 4.2 GHZ thats it. Whats in my sig is what I got with the exception of a GA-990fx-ud7 which is on the way.


----------



## Fordox

Don't overclock if you call your cpu a phenom ii X8









and you can't just copy a overclock from someone else and hope it is stable, every cpu/motherboard is different and so are the results.


----------



## stickyittoyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> Don't overclock if you call your cpu a phenom ii X8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and you can't just copy a overclock from someone else and hope it is stable, every cpu/motherboard is different and so are the results.


(+1), agree 100%!

On top of that you wouldn't want to slam it into a over clock that it's not use to.

Much like when putting a turbo in a car. You gradually add more PSI in the turbo. Otherwise it will blow the motor or burn out the turbine unit.


----------



## thfallen

just turn off all the power saving stuff mine is at 4500 with just one step up on the core volts.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickyittoyou*
> 
> (+1), agree 100%!
> On top of that you wouldn't want to slam it into a over clock that it's not use to.
> Much like when putting a turbo in a car. You gradually add more PSI in the turbo. Otherwise it will blow the motor or burn out the turbine unit.


Negative,

This is electronic, not pneumatic or hydraulic for that matter. There is not a "break-in" period, the only thing getting settled is yourself.

And honestly lets not bash the person for a typo eh? If you have some useful insight on how they can get their 8120 to 4.2ghz... then help out.


----------



## stickyittoyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Negative,
> This is electronic, not pneumatic or hydraulic for that matter. There is not a "break-in" period, the only thing getting settled is yourself.
> And honestly lets not bash the person for a typo eh? If you have some useful insight on how they can get their 8120 to 4.2ghz... then help out.


Once again an overly nerdy person who doesn't understand the usage of analogy...

Yes there is a break in period... you don't just simply unbox a CPU and immediately overclock it. You need a good couple weeks for the pipes inside of the processor to properly burn in (Just like with metal you have to harden the CPU) or otherwise *YOU WILL* crack it internally and will no longer work. But since I know nothing about break in periods go ahead! In 8 months when that guy is complaining about his parts being broken don't come running to me... I told you so. goodbye. BTW thanks for the insult...


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickyittoyou*
> 
> Once again an overly nerdy person who doesn't understand the usage of analogy...
> Yes there is a break in period... you don't just simply unbox a CPU and immediately overclock it. You need a good couple weeks for the pipes inside of the processor to properly burn in (Just like with metal you have to harden the CPU) or otherwise *YOU WILL* crack it internally and will no longer work. But since I know nothing about break in periods go ahead! In 8 months when that guy is complaining about his parts being broken don't come running to me... I told you so. goodbye. BTW thanks for the insult...


No no,

I didn't not mean to insult you. Although I would categorize myself as an "overly nerdy person"







(hard to convey inflection via a post I know)

As to the "break in period". This is a topic that has been visited many times. Some believe (such as yourself) that a processor needs to be broken in, some don't.

There isn't anything "mechanical" about a processor however. The materials used in a processor will only begin to degrade over time. Heat will only increase the "break down".

Processors are run through many tests before they are packaged and shipped for retail (part of the binning process). So the processor you buy has been run many times at different speeds to see what it's capability is at what TDP.

The "pipes" as you say, are merely "wires". The wires conduct electricity. For example: If you use brand new 7 AWG wire, you can Immediately pull up to 30amps through that wire (no break-in period needed). Everything is made with a margin of error known as a service factor (SF). Service factors are generally within 15% of the max electrical capacity.

Pretty much, the processor when you receive it is at its "peak" physical shape and will only degrade from that point from then on. That's why I say the Beak-in period is only the user becoming comfortable with pushing the limits. Hence my comment: "...the only thing getting settled is yourself."

At the end of the day I wont discredit anyone that wants to "break-in" a processor (its your investment, why not?). I only aim to educate and maybe shed some light on the subject. No harm no foul.

Now, as to engine building... you better break in an engine correctly with dyno oil and make sure those piston rings and valve seats like their new home before you add boost or take it to the track...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battlenut*
> 
> I would just like to know all the setting that someone here has. I want an overclock of 4.2 GHZ thats it. Whats in my sig is what I got with the exception of a GA-990fx-ud7 which is on the way.


The UD7 from what I've sen can be a "finicky" board. The LLC seems to not be consistent between boards and furthermore processors used in the boards. So when exploring your OC with the UD7, I would suggest finding the individual limits of each system first. By this I mean, run everything at stock speed and increase one thing at a time. (I would also take thefallen's advice and disable CnQ, Turbo and C1e while finding said limits. these can be explored after your OC is found).

Other than that I hope someone with some more "hands on" experience with the UD7 can give you some pointers. GL and post it up when you get it!


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

why has gigabyte not put the LLC option on the UD5 boards!! The computer I built two days ago had a UD3, and even that low end board had the LLC.

I am so pissed off with the 0.4-0.5 volt drop!


----------



## Mikecdm

gonna have to call a plumber to fix them pipes


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickyittoyou*
> 
> (+1), agree 100%!
> On top of that you wouldn't want to slam it into a over clock that it's not use to.
> Much like when putting a turbo in a car. You gradually add more PSI in the turbo. Otherwise it will blow the motor or burn out the turbine unit.


lets stick to pc's here fellas....there is no "break in" on a turbo dude....only reason you add boost slowly is when tuning the motors injectors to compensate for the increased air flow. there is nothing mechanical in the turbo that needs "broke in" its a shaft with a fan on it...basically.

maybe need to touch up on your "break in" knowledge bro


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGaZZaDaG*
> 
> why has gigabyte not put the LLC option on the UD5 boards!! The computer I built two days ago had a UD3, and even that low end board had the LLC.
> I am so pissed off with the 0.4-0.5 volt drop!


yeah, gigabyte added LLC to later revisions of the 990fx line...

I'm not sure which revisions, but I do know all 1.0 revisions *didn't* have LLC.

A lot of people are angry about that... and I agree... The DrMos on the UD5 and UD7 should have been born with LLC TBH. The UD3 with its "older" separate driver power scheme I can understand... Nut still...


----------



## tout

What's the general consensus on the F6 BIOS for the 990FXA-UD3 revision 1.0? Does it suck? Have issues? Better voltage? I've tried the beta F6's and had issues with BSOD so I've been running F5 for a long while now.


----------



## zvonexp

What u say on Gigabyte 990FXA UD7 Rev 1.1 for just 290 dolars ? usualy is 400 dolars in Croatia


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickyittoyou*
> 
> I really don't care who you are ***hole, you wanna share an insult to me again?
> The turbine does need a break in period. EBAY turbos need them more because they are not run prior to being sold. Which means that the metal has not become naturally polished yet so that motor can run smoothly. (DO YOUR RESEARCH... "BRO"!)
> Driving it for a couple hundred miles usually does the trick... and this is if itwasn't broken in by the factory...
> http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/30407-how-properly-break-turbo-merged-5-8-a.html
> NOW! back to computers.


Well that was unnecessary...


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickyittoyou*
> 
> I really don't care who you are ***hole, you wanna share an insult to me again?
> The turbine does need a break in period. EBAY turbos need them more because they are not run prior to being sold. Which means that the metal has not become naturally polished yet so that motor can run smoothly. (DO YOUR RESEARCH... "BRO"!)
> Driving it for a couple hundred miles usually does the trick... and this is if itwasn't broken in by the factory...
> http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/30407-how-properly-break-turbo-merged-5-8-a.html
> NOW! back to computers.


do some reading. hell, READ your own link. the "break in" period your trying to refer to is priming the oil lines so you dont blow your seals running the turbo dry. the reason ebay turbo will blow faster is because the seals in it are not to quality spec, a simple top line rebuild kit used prior to install will cure any worries of oil blow or early deterioration. im sorry to say man... but you is wrong. when i blew my ebay 50 trim i upgraded right to a garret t3/t4 60trim .63ar exducer/.57inducer ball bearing. pre-oiled the turbo and slapped it on...has ran 24lbs every day since install...no failure...no break in...all power.

hope this helps









as for the topic that should be at hand (the F6 BIOS) i have not had any BSODs or anything bad..vdroop is still the same...i dont know if the 1.0rev didnt get the LLC ( i guess not since i dont have it) but i know other revisions that my friends have indeed have LLC now...crap stix..









*edit* im using ud-3 board


----------



## idonthavefleas

i had the turbo and oil lines removed from my motherboard


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *idonthavefleas*
> 
> i had the turbo and oil lines removed from my motherboard


That's how real men OC









Besides, I'm a roots / screw blower guy myself... but again, wrong forum.

I've been real leery of F6... and I think I'm gonna stick to F5 since I know I already have this chip at its high point.


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

My apologies if this has been answered already, but I'm using tapatalk and it does not allow me to search within a thread.

I have the 3 series of this mobo. Are there any big advantages of using an upgraded sound card? I don't plan on doing anything more than listening to high quality audio.


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RULINGCHAOS*
> 
> My apologies if this has been answered already, but I'm using tapatalk and it does not allow me to search within a thread.
> I have the 3 series of this mobo. Are there any big advantages of using an upgraded sound card? I don't plan on doing anything more than listening to high quality audio.


I can hear a difference between my Titanium and the onboard, but that will be the only difference. It won't magically make your CPU run faster or anything.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RULINGCHAOS*
> 
> My apologies if this has been answered already, but I'm using tapatalk and it does not allow me to search within a thread.
> I have the 3 series of this mobo. Are there any big advantages of using an upgraded sound card? I don't plan on doing anything more than listening to high quality audio.


The Realtek ALC889 that this board uses is actually a decent audio chip. With updated drivers from realtek I've been very pleased...

With that said however, you need to consider your listening preference. Are you going to be using headphones, self powered speakers, or piping to a receiver?.

I'd say for headphone playback I've heard better. That's not to say its bad, maybe invest in a decent Headphone amp.

I have am old set of Logitech X-540 speakers I use with my machine. And these sound flat amazing with the onboard sound. Turn Dolby on the game setting and was amazed.

And when it comes to piping to a receiver, this card will send any codec you would want to.


----------



## zvonexp

Hi i buyed rev 1.1 its perfect but can i have surround audio and control him ?


----------



## Frietpan

i have an 990-FXA UD3, and my nortbridge temperare hits 75c under load, and if i look at other motherboards they seem to be around 50/60.
is 75 to high? (i really dont feel like re fitting the sink lol) it idles around 50c.


----------



## boganaz

I bought this board about 5-6 months ago and so far I have had it replaced twice.
First time was because the main power connector failed and i couldn't power up/
Second time was because the network controller failed so i had it replaced. any one else had trouble like that? just want to know if its common and if i can expect more trouble in the future i guess.
Not worried now this is a mean board. and i haven't had any trouble with this new replacement.


----------



## sbeast

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frietpan*
> 
> i have an 990-FXA UD3, and my nortbridge temperare hits 75c under load, and if i look at other motherboards they seem to be around 50/60.
> is 75 to high? (i really dont feel like re fitting the sink lol) it idles around 50c.


it should be okay, this board runs hot for whatever reason


----------



## Frietpan

ok than.
but i remember an asus board i had before that hit the 90c when it was hot outside, i think this one is gonna hit that to.need to upgrade the case i think


----------



## DMills

I've got the rev 1.1, and i just flash my bios to update from F5 to F6. boots up fast an all so far, but my question is this: What exactly did F6 update?


----------



## Obfuscator

Only yesterday did I notice that Anandtech had a 990FX motherboard roundup that included the GA-990-FXA-UD5. Unfortunately, they only had the older revision 1.0 on hand. They did mention that there are later revisions, 1.1 and 1.2. Does anyone here know anything about the revision 1.2 GA-990FXA-UD5s? I am curious as to what was changed from revision 1.1 to revision 1.2.

Here is the link to the article in question:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/5714/990fx-motherboard-roundup-with-thuban-and-bulldozer-a-second-wind-for-asus-gigabyte-msi-and-biostar/8


----------



## battlenut

The board in the sig is the problem. I ran occt for an hour before it locks up. I try to play random games and computer crashes (black screen not blue screen). gonna run memtest from usb soon.


----------



## battlenut

found 2 dead sticks that absolutely sucks. so now I am down to 8GB of ram again. I think I am going to buy corsair next time. I guess it was not the board after all.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMills*
> 
> I've got the rev 1.1, and i just flash my bios to update from F5 to F6. boots up fast an all so far, but my question is this: What exactly did F6 update?


In bios F6, there is a bigger support list for cpu's and you can disable APN, it means it wont underclock itself when you overclock and come above a set TDP for your board.


----------



## Tykjen

MY ud5 has started to boot slowly. Not sure why. I woke up now, with the desktop frozen. Did a reboot and waited over a minute, while "Loading operating system" hung/froze for like 20 seconds. Baaah. Time to find a diagnose..


----------



## Tykjen

Scratch that. It was the usual fail...nvidia GPU beta drivers removed. Now it boots like a dream again. Also spotted some new AHCI drivers at amd, been over a year since I updated those.


----------



## zvonexp

HDD got bad sectors ?


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> yeah, gigabyte added LLC to later revisions of the 990fx line...
> I'm not sure which revisions, but I do know all 1.0 revisions *didn't* have LLC.
> A lot of people are angry about that... and I agree... The DrMos on the UD5 and UD7 should have been born with LLC TBH. The UD3 with its "older" separate driver power scheme I can understand... Nut still...


Yeah







its so bad!! I keep emailing gigabyte and they wont do anything!
I'm waiting for the 1090fx boards now...


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrGaZZaDaG*
> 
> Yeah
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its so bad!! I keep emailing gigabyte and they wont do anything!
> I'm waiting for the 1090fx boards now...


Good luck with that since PD will use the 990FX chipset too.


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *battlenut*
> 
> found 2 dead sticks that absolutely sucks. so now I am down to 8GB of ram again. *I think I am going to buy corsair next time.* I guess it was not the board after all.


My Corsair Ram has been nothing but problems for me.







But my G.Skill Ripjaws have been great. Just goes to show, name isnt everything. (Not that G.Skill is a small name either.)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> My Corsair Ram has been nothing but problems for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But my G.Skill Ripjaws have been great. Just goes to show, name isnt everything. (Not that G.Skill is a small name either.)


I only use G.Skill RAM in machines I build, unless a customer insists on using another brand. Yes, I have had some sticks show up DOA, but that is expected. No company has a perfect track record on ram.. As we all know the R stands for Random. I often joke with customers that the Random has two meaning with RAM. 1) description for how its accessed. and 2) Describes the failure rate of said RAM.

I choose G.Skill for their Customer Service/life time warrenty/no hassle return policy save's me time and money, along with the customer.


----------



## strom32

I have just upgraded my current MB to UD3 from GA-880GM-USB3 (1045T) for SLI, SATA 3, better OC features (8+2) and possible PD support in future. Good to see the series is well supported here on this forum which I think has steered me towards wanting to buy it.

I had a RAID 0 array on the 880GM and have transferred this array over to the UD3. My process was to do a Windows Backup of the array onto another HDD and load SB950 chipset, AHCI, RAID drivers (which actually apprear as 8 series drivers when you download them from GB) up before disconnecting and replacing the old MB with UD3.

Once I set all the BIOS settings correctly had to Restart and could not log into W7 so I restarted again and logged in in Safe Mode where W7 took care of loading up all the right drivers. Restarted again and it was good to go. Had to reactivate W7, it gives you 3 days. I never thought it would be that easy to do so cheers to AMD and MS for keeping things simple. Thats the way it should be and ensure a continuous and stable upgrade path for many people. Now looking forward to PD if its a significant improvement over Thuban.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> My Corsair Ram has been nothing but problems for me. But my G.Skill Ripjaws have been great. Just goes to show, name isnt everything. (Not that G.Skill is a small name either.)


I personally stay with either Corsair, Crucial, G-skill, Mushkin for my ram needs. I prefer Mushkin ram over the others, There tech support is awesome and personal. Mushkin is also a Usa based company.

overall out of the few hundred systems i have made i never had a problem. Only to date have i ran across 3 bad sticks of ram. 2 of which failed to reach rated speeds and remain stable, one was a no boot/post at all or DOA.
Quote:


> Now looking forward to PD if its a significant improvement over Thuban.


Significant? no According to all the leaked trinity benchmarks Pile Driver offers about 7-10% more IPC per core. (Trinity has the piledriver cores, but it also lacks l3)

Overall Pile Driver will be about 10-15% faster than Current Bulldozer in single threaded applications and a good bit faster in muti-threaded. What remains to been seen is what the clock speeds will be like. What remains to be seen is if Amd has gotten the power consumption down, and releases higher clock speeds than current bulldozer. So basically Pile driver will give people running the Older am3 chips something worthwhile to upgrade to. I know about 2 weeks or so before release date of Pile Driver, my Bulldozer will be up for sale lol.

Oh i finally got a chance to play with the offical F6 bios finally. Have not done to much tinkering yet, but runs the same settings as f5. System is stable so far, (had problems with stability with f6c, f6k...) Seems to be fixed with F6. Gonna clean the case out today, while i'm off work, and play with the overclock more.


----------



## kzone75

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2352317







This is with a setting of 1.7v for the cpu in the BIOS using F6. That's the only problem I have with the F6 at the moment.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2352317
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is with a setting of 1.7v for the cpu in the BIOS using F6. That's the only problem I have with the F6 at the moment.


serious vdroop... but your results speak for themselves! looks awesome


----------



## Wild Wally

The way this thread died you'd think there was nothing more to say about the GA-990 boards.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> The way this thread died you'd think there was nothing more to say about the GA-990 boards.


Wild Wally,
Waiting for the piledriver........

Actually, there is someone (madengineer, post 1022) on the GA-990XA/970A-Series Owners' Club forum asking:

Hey, does anybody know what "FF" means on the LED display on the UD7? I've done abit of searching and cant really find out. At first i suspected ram, but i tested it and it came up clear. Along with all HDDs.

Since I have the UD5, I haven't had cause to look up that info.

Thanks,
bcudasteve


----------



## Rebelord

FF = Fully Functional IIRC.

My UD7 still is going strong. Not on the latest BIOS though, on F6. Might flash to F8 to try for better stability for OCing. I can stay pretty stable until 3.8Ghz, but past that I really have to play with voltages. However, my particular board does have a certain amount of Vdroop in it. Which I knew when I bought it. Considering my UD7 I bought of Sin088. Yes, the very UD7 that he used to review it way back on release.








Other than that, love it!

Rebelord


----------



## TusCloud

I have looked and looked through the 300+ pages to find the solution, but i feel like it dances around my question, so i apologize if this has already been answered:

I recently upgraded my PC to the GA-990FXA-UD3 mobo (Rev 1.1), with AMD AM3+ 8150 8-core processor. I purchased 2 Corsair 8GB @ 1600 mhz sticks and threw them in as well. Since i have done this, i have had random (and i mean RANDOM) lockups.

I play games a lot, but i have actually encountered more lockups outside of gaming than i have inside. Sometimes, the lockup will occur before my desktop even displays. No BSOD, no sound-loop...the computer will just seize to work. Fans still kicking and everything.

I have thrown the book at this for troubleshooting, and its really starting to aggravate me. I ran MemTest86 against my Corsairs and the first round hit 4 errors, while the second threw 593 (lol) errors. Obviously, i swapped out the sticks and replaced it with a 10600 @ 1333mhz 4gb of PNY. Within 15 minutes, computer lockup AGAIN. MemTest86 reported no errors on this stick.

Last lockup reported my CPU temp at 68 (during a stress test), and other times my CPU temp can reach up to 85 without a lockup.

This really does appear to be random and i am not sure how to diagnose this. I reformatted my HD and reinstalled all the latest drivers (ONLY) and updated BIOS. Still no worky.

Other points to note: i am using the stock CPU cooler and stock thermal paste for all of my heatsinks. I cant say for certain that the PC is overheating, as i have seen lockups outside of stress test and even as low of a temp as 45c.

I am on my knees begging for help with this guys. Like i said, if this has been fixed before and i just missed it while browsing this thread, please point me to the page number and ill gladly review it. Thank you!

*edit* spelling and thermal paste notes.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> FF = Fully Functional IIRC.
> My UD7 still is going strong. Not on the latest BIOS though, on F6. Might flash to F8 to try for better stability for OCing. I can stay pretty stable until 3.8Ghz, but past that I really have to play with voltages. However, my particular board does have a certain amount of Vdroop in it. Which I knew when I bought it. Considering my UD7 I bought of Sin088. Yes, the very UD7 that he used to review it way back on release.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other than that, love it!
> Rebelord


Thank you!


----------



## LesPaulLover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> FF = Fully Functional IIRC.
> My UD7 still is going strong. Not on the latest BIOS though, on F6. Might flash to F8 to try for better stability for OCing. I can stay pretty stable until 3.8Ghz, but past that I really have to play with voltages. However, my particular board does have a certain amount of Vdroop in it. Which I knew when I bought it. Considering my UD7 I bought of Sin088. Yes, the very UD7 that he used to review it way back on release.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other than that, love it!
> Rebelord


Talking about your sig rig?

That's due to your 1090T CPU not your mobo.

The x6's are a bit trickier to overclock once you cross the 3.8ghz mark. For example my 1100T can do 3.7ghz on stock voltages. It can do 3.8ghz @ 1.375vcore. However running PRIME STABLE 3.9ghz requires 1.450vcore; and running 4.0ghz+ requires 1.500vore+ under full Prime load.

Then of course there's the NB clock and voltages, and the RAM.


----------



## LesPaulLover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TusCloud*
> 
> I have looked and looked through the 300+ pages to find the solution, but i feel like it dances around my question, so i apologize if this has already been answered:
> I recently upgraded my PC to the GA-990FXA-UD3 mobo (Rev 1.1), with AMD AM3+ 8150 8-core processor. I purchased 2 Corsair 8GB @ 1600 mhz sticks and threw them in as well. Since i have done this, i have had random (and i mean RANDOM) lockups.
> I play games a lot, but i have actually encountered more lockups outside of gaming than i have inside. Sometimes, the lockup will occur before my desktop even displays. No BSOD, no sound-loop...the computer will just seize to work. Fans still kicking and everything.
> I have thrown the book at this for troubleshooting, and its really starting to aggravate me. I ran MemTest86 against my Corsairs and the first round hit 4 errors, while the second threw 593 (lol) errors. Obviously, i swapped out the sticks and replaced it with a 10600 @ 1333mhz 4gb of PNY. Within 15 minutes, computer lockup AGAIN. MemTest86 reported no errors on this stick.
> Last lockup reported my CPU temp at 68 (during a stress test), and other times my CPU temp can reach up to 85 without a lockup.
> This really does appear to be random and i am not sure how to diagnose this. I reformatted my HD and reinstalled all the latest drivers (ONLY) and i flashed the bios to F10. Still no worky.
> Other points to note: i am using the stock CPU cooler and stock thermal paste for all of my heatsinks. I cant say for certain that the PC is overheating, as i have seen lockups outside of stress test and even as low of a temp as 45c.
> I am on my knees begging for help with this guys. Like i said, if this has been fixed before and i just missed it while browsing this thread, please point me to the page number and ill gladly review it. Thank you!
> *edit* spelling and thermal paste notes.


Does this stuff happen when you're running everything at stock clocks and voltage?

If so -- sounds like a possible problem with either the mobo or power supply.

My rig -- with a UD3 -- goes in to a sort of "boot loop" when I have a bad overclock. The PC will turn on, but my monitor stays black for a while instead of turning on normally. Then, when the BIOS posts, it gives me a message saying it reverted to the CMOS default (I do love dual-BIOS so much)


----------



## TusCloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LesPaulLover*
> 
> Does this stuff happen when you're running everything at stock clocks and voltage?
> If so -- sounds like a possible problem with either the mobo or power supply.
> My rig -- with a UD3 -- goes in to a sort of "boot loop" when I have a bad overclock. The PC will turn on, but my monitor stays black for a while instead of turning on normally. Then, when the BIOS posts, it gives me a message saying it reverted to the CMOS default (I do love dual-BIOS so much)


Yes, this is stock clocks and voltages. I am extremely inexperienced with voltages and OCing, that i simply choose to not mess with it. I have looked at it all manually, however and i made sure to set the BIOS to "Auto" for all options.

How can i check either my mobo or my PSU for hardware failures? i use Prime95 for most of my stress testing but ive never been able to run it for longer than 20 minutes at one time. Any other software or strategy i can use? Thank you for the reply.


----------



## LesPaulLover

So what's the deal with all the Nvidia audio drivers always on my system?

Even when I've uninstalled them in the past, and always done custom nvidia driver installs, always excluding the HD audio drivers.

Display:
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 (2096832 KB)
Video Adapter NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 (2096832 KB)
3D Accelerator nVIDIA GeForce GTX 560
Monitor Asus VG236 [23" LCD] (B3LMTF108520)

Multimedia:
Audio Adapter nVIDIA HDMI/DP @ nVIDIA GF114 - High Definition Audio Controller
Audio Adapter nVIDIA HDMI/DP @ nVIDIA GF114 - High Definition Audio Controller
Audio Adapter nVIDIA HDMI/DP @ nVIDIA GF114 - High Definition Audio Controller
Audio Adapter nVIDIA HDMI/DP @ nVIDIA GF114 - High Definition Audio Controller
Audio Adapter nVIDIA HDMI/DP @ nVIDIA GF114 - High Definition Audio Controller
Audio Adapter nVIDIA HDMI/DP @ nVIDIA GF114 - High Definition Audio Controller
Audio Adapter nVIDIA HDMI/DP @ nVIDIA GF114 - High Definition Audio Controller
Audio Adapter nVIDIA HDMI/DP @ nVIDIA GF114 - High Definition Audio Controller
Audio Adapter Realtek ALC889 @ ATI SB900 - High Definition Audio Controller

Storage:
IDE Controller Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
IDE Controller Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller
IDE Controller Standard Dual Channel PCI IDE Controller


----------



## TusCloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TusCloud*
> 
> Well, no i dont know if im doing it properly, actually. In fact, im starting to doubt my years and years and years of computer experience and hang up my professional title of "Computer Engineer" because of this crap.
> I honestly can say i dont know what to do. So by saying that, im not sure how to adjust my timings. Any further guidance in that area? I am about to shut down and swap PSUs.


Swapped PSUs with a 500 watt from Cooler Master. I already notice a decrease in CPU temp during my stress test. Not significantly, but its hovering around 68 whereas previously it would be about 72-75 during this phase of the test. That being said, is it possible that a bad power supply is causing an increase in voltage or temperature to the CPU and other areas? I mean, if anyone could explain how a PSU can be incompatible with a motherboard, that would be excellent. I have used this 750w for about 2 years now without any issue, up until i swapped MOBOs.

Additionally, im very curious to see if my Corsairs are good to go. I really would hate to RMA them. Can i get some detailed instructions on how to ensure my timings are correct and the "proper" way to run memtest? Thanks again guys, i hope im getting that much closer to figuring this out.


----------



## LesPaulLover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TusCloud*
> 
> Swapped PSUs with a 500 watt from Cooler Master. I already notice a decrease in CPU temp during my stress test. Not significantly, but its hovering around 68 whereas previously it would be about 72-75 during this phase of the test. That being said, is it possible that a bad power supply is causing an increase in voltage or temperature to the CPU and other areas? I mean, if anyone could explain how a PSU can be incompatible with a motherboard, that would be excellent. I have used this 750w for about 2 years now without any issue, up until i swapped MOBOs.
> Additionally, im very curious to see if my Corsairs are good to go. I really would hate to RMA them. Can i get some detailed instructions on how to ensure my timings are correct and the "proper" way to run memtest? Thanks again guys, i hope im getting that much closer to figuring this out.


2 years is a long time, and the 8150 requires a LOT of steady power.

From what I understand of the FX chips, don't own one myself, 72-75c is pushing the limits of their heat dispersion and you start running the risk of computing errors, crashes, and over a long period of time damage to the cpu.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TusCloud*
> 
> I have looked and looked through the 300+ pages to find the solution, but i feel like it dances around my question, so i apologize if this has already been answered:
> I recently upgraded my PC to the GA-990FXA-UD3 mobo (Rev 1.1), with AMD AM3+ 8150 8-core processor. I purchased 2 Corsair 8GB @ 1600 mhz sticks and threw them in as well. Since i have done this, i have had random (and i mean RANDOM) lockups.
> I play games a lot, but i have actually encountered more lockups outside of gaming than i have inside. Sometimes, the lockup will occur before my desktop even displays. No BSOD, no sound-loop...the computer will just seize to work. Fans still kicking and everything.
> I have thrown the book at this for troubleshooting, and its really starting to aggravate me. I ran MemTest86 against my Corsairs and the first round hit 4 errors, while the second threw 593 (lol) errors. Obviously, i swapped out the sticks and replaced it with a 10600 @ 1333mhz 4gb of PNY. Within 15 minutes, computer lockup AGAIN. MemTest86 reported no errors on this stick.
> Last lockup reported my CPU temp at 68 (during a stress test), and other times my CPU temp can reach up to 85 without a lockup.
> This really does appear to be random and i am not sure how to diagnose this. *I reformatted my HD and reinstalled all the latest drivers (ONLY) and i flashed the bios to F10. Still no worky.*
> Other points to note: i am using the stock CPU cooler and stock thermal paste for all of my heatsinks. I cant say for certain that the PC is overheating, as i have seen lockups outside of stress test and even as low of a temp as 45c.
> I am on my knees begging for help with this guys. Like i said, if this has been fixed before and i just missed it while browsing this thread, please point me to the page number and ill gladly review it. Thank you!
> *edit* spelling and thermal paste notes.


bios F10? where can i find that one, it must be from the future


----------



## LesPaulLover

First of all you'll need to enter the BIOS by pressing "delete" as the system boots up.

Have you done this before?

If you wanna wait about an hour and I can talk you through it step by step on here while you do it assuming u have another pc or internet phone etc.


----------



## TusCloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LesPaulLover*
> 
> 2 years is a long time, and the 8150 requires a LOT of steady power.
> From what I understand of the FX chips, don't own one myself, 72-75c is pushing the limits of their heat dispersion and you start running the risk of computing errors, crashes, and over a long period of time damage to the cpu.


I agree, i just didnt think twice because 750 is a lot of power....but perhaps i pushed it outside of its comfort zone. At any rate, im using the 500w and it just passed my stress test. I dont think ive seen it pass before, so perhaps weve nailed it. In response to what the FX can handle: I heard that it was tested up to 90c at factory, so i figured 75 isnt that bad. In previous stress tests, it went to 85 without a lockup. Oh well....im extremely tired and mentally exhausted from all this stuff. Why the hell did i ever pick computers to be my field of work? Starting to wonder if the pay is worth the headaches =P.

I will update this thread later to confirm/deny the PSU being the issue. I know a lot of people have experienced lockups with this Mobo (as ive read throughout this thread) so id love to post my experiences and findings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LesPaulLover*
> 
> First of all you'll need to enter the BIOS by pressing "delete" as the system boots up.
> Have you done this before?
> If you wanna wait about an hour and I can talk you through it step by step on here while you do it assuming u have another pc or internet phone etc.


Yes ive played around in my BIOS before. Just not too familiar with RAM timings and other settings. If you just point me into the right direction and tell me what i need to change, i can figure it out on my own. No rush either...my PC is running just fine right now (thank god). But still, 16 GB > 4GB any day.
Sorry for the flurry of posts, but i just came to say that i am done with this motherboard. I cant figure it out. I have spent the last 4 days trying to diagnose and troubleshoot these lockups and i simply cant figure it out. NOBODY can figure it out. Im going to return everything and drop back down to my previous configuration. This was simply not worth it. If anyone can point me to the direction of a motherboard/processor combo that actually works, please let me know.

For what its worth, heres what i tried:
- Swapped Memory
- Reformatted to clean OS
- Flashed BIOS to latest
- Swapped Power Supply Units
- Monitored cooling -> would lockup at varying temperatures, some even as low as 40C
- Swapped Video Card -> would lockup even at the base OS, without any program running (thus low temperature) from anywhere between 1 hour to 30 seconds

So yeah, goodbye thread. it was fun while it lasted.


----------



## Rebelord

Found my OC to keep.
4Ghz @ 1.488 vid (after vdroop)
NB @ 3Ghz
HT @ 2Ghz
1600Mhz @ 9-9-9-24t 1.5v
Stable, plus with C1E and Kool n Quiet enabled for no load down clocking.









I can reach 4.2Ghz++ However, I have to boot with way to much Vcore voltage to compensate for vdroop I dont feel comfortable.

Rebelord


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o591/b4rr3l/primeFXCrucial-2.jpg


----------



## bcudasteve

see page one

Q: In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
A: TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> see page one
> Q: In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
> A: TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp


Thank you for correcting that







lulz


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> see page one
> Q: In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
> A: TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp


that's wrong my friend, tmpin2 is exactly the same as shown for CPU temp in easy tune.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> that's wrong my friend, tmpin2 is exactly the same as shown for CPU temp in easy tune.


and exactly the same as in AMD Overdrive


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> see page one
> Q: In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
> A: TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> that's wrong my friend, tmpin2 is exactly the same as shown for CPU temp in easy tune.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> and exactly the same as in AMD Overdrive


TMPIN read out's according to Gigabyte's community forums.

Link

This is the same for all revisions of the 990FXA UD3, 5 and 7.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> TMPIN read out's according to Gigabyte's community forums.
> Link
> This is the same for all revisions of the 990FXA UD3, 5 and 7.


hm...
i don't care really, because the temps only differ 2 degrees in full load.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> hm...
> i don't care really, because the temps only differ 2 degrees in full load.


They are different though. One is the CPU core temps, the other is the socket temp(TMPIN 02).. Its very common for the temps between the core's and the socket to vary, some time's a great deal. Core temps are higher on full load than socket temps in most case's, thus going off the socket temp can be a bad idea when stress testing at the thermal limit of the chip.

*EDIT: forgive me, I listed TMPIN 02 as the CPU core temp, this is wrong.. Typo I should have listed it as TMPIN 01*


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> hm...
> i don't care really, because the temps only differ 2 degrees in full load.


actually, I do care, since my cpu temp is now 43 degrees under cinebench load







I find that quite hard to believe.
how hot may my NB be? because now this one is the hottest component on my motherboard. and is there a way to cool it down? not that its crucial, but because i really love low temps.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> TMPIN read out's according to Gigabyte's community forums.
> Link
> This is the same for all revisions of the 990FXA UD3, 5 and 7.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> hm...
> i don't care really, because the temps only differ 2 degrees in full load.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> They are different though. One is the CPU core temps, the other is the socket temp(TMPIN 02).. Its very common for the temps between the core's and the socket to vary, some time's a great deal. Core temps are higher on full load than socket temps in most case's, thus going off the socket temp can be a bad idea when stress testing at the thermal limit of the chip.


As you can see in my picture posted, they have a difference of 16C soh it's a quite big difference. I don't believe that socket temp is 16C higher than core temp cause it don't make sense.

Anyway tmpin2 is the same as cpu temp reported by easy tune, and I haven't seen any similar temp w/ tmpin1 so I suppose it's NB or VRM temp.

tmpin0 is sys temp


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> actually, I do care, since my cpu temp is now 43 degrees under cinebench load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find that quite hard to believe.
> how hot may my NB be? because now this one is the hottest component on my motherboard. and is there a way to cool it down? not that its crucial, but because i really love low temps.


This is a topic of great debate, get ready for the flame war to begin.

According to Gigabyte the NorthBridge(TMPIN02) is safe and tested safe all the way up to 85c.

That being said I have ran my board with a heavy OC for almost a year solid, temps on TMPIN-02 often go up to 75c during the summer(85f ambient temps in my room).

If your temps are higher than you feel ok with, point a fan at the heatsink, or you can clean off the TIM and do a re-seat to see if that helps.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> As you can see in my picture posted, they have a difference of 16C soh it's a quite big difference. I don't believe that socket temp is 16C higher than core temp cause it don't make sense.
> Anyway tmpin2 is the same as cpu temp reported by easy tune, and I haven't seen any similar temp w/ tmpin1 so I suppose it's NB or VRM temp.


I will also add that some programs will give false temps, I can't use Hardware Monitor on my 990FXA, it reads false temps. Same with overdrive, it reads temps about 10c higher than they actually are. Open Hardware Monitor however read's perfectly proper for me. This is a "YMMV" issue, different programs will read correct while other's wont. Its best to test all of them out for your self.

TMPIN02 should be your North Bridge read out.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

I do know that core temp use to have an -10C offset and tmpin2 is exactly 10C higher.

They do also states that the only correct software to show the right cpu temp is the motherboard program and that's easytune.

Easy tune reports the same cpu temp that tmpin2, and tmpin1 is actually lower than core temp, wich is obviously wrong, cause Core temp is always around 10-11C lower than ambient when in idle mode and WCed

tmpin1 don't have any linearity with HM core temp or easy tune cpu temp... can't say the same for tmpin2 wich keep the same offset to core temp wile scaling, and is right on pair with ET CPU Temp.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> I do know that core temp use to have an -10C offset and tmpin2 is exactly 10C higher.
> They do also states that the only correct software to show the right cpu temp is the motherboard program and that's easytune.
> Easy tune reports the same cpu temp that tmpin2, and tmpin1 is actually lower than core temp, wich is obviously wrong, cause Core temp is always around 10-11C lower than ambient when in idle mode and WCed
> tmpin1 don't have any linearity with HM core temp or easy tune cpu temp... can't say the same for tmpin2 wich keep the same offset to core temp wile scaling, and is right on pair with ET CPU Temp.


TMPIN 02 is the NB temps...


----------



## cmac68

Download touch bios from Gigabyte website, install and open. This will show your CPU temp so you determine which it is. Mine shows the CPU temp as TMPIN 02 on the UD3.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmac68*
> 
> Download touch bios from Gigabyte website, install and open. This will show your CPU temp so you determine which it is. Mine shows the CPU temp as TMPIN 02 on the UD3.


same here, to bad i would have liked my cpu on 43 degrees, now it is 47.

by the way, I can't read out my voltage good. I set it on around the 1,31V but my software shows me 1,26 under load.
is this a wrong voltage read-out or just some serious vdroop? my fx-8150 is clocked on 4ghz.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> TMPIN 02 is the NB temps...


no way, if you can't read keep your thinkings but don't spread wrong info.

only cause a guy moderates a gigabyte forum it don't mean he is a gigabyte engieneer.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> same here, to bad i would have liked my cpu on 43 degrees, now it is 47.
> by the way, I can't read out my voltage good. I set it on around the 1,31V but my software shows me 1,26 under load.
> is this a wrong voltage read-out or just some serious vdroop? my fx-8150 is clocked on 4ghz.


im doing some overclocking now, and it was serious vdroop.
and when i ONLY changed the CPU voltage, only my tmpin2 sensor went up.

so im pretty sure its the tmpin2


----------



## Rebelord

I have used CoreTemp and Aida 64 for a very long time and never had issues with what temp is what with those. Have always been fine for me. VS trying to use HW Monitor or AMD Overdrive.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> no way, if you can't read keep your thinkings but don't spread wrong info.
> only cause a guy moderates a gigabyte forum it don't mean he is a gigabyte engieneer.


Could you prove I'm spreading wrong info, I'm more inclined to trust a mod on the gigabyte community forum over "some random guy".


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Could you prove I'm spreading wrong info, I'm more inclined to trust a mod on the gigabyte community forum over "some random guy".


maybe I just a random guy around here... I gave you all the proof you need but if you don't read I can't do much more about it.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> maybe I just a random guy around here... I gave you all the proof you need but if you don't read I can't do much more about it.


You are wrong 'B4rr3L Rid3R' !
And 'KhaoticKomputing' is absolutely right











As you can clearly see that the value of 'TMPIN0' inHwMonitor is equivalent to HWiFO64's Motherboard temp, Aida64's Motherboard temp and SpeedFan's TMPIN 1. This is Motherboard temperature.

And value of 'TMPIN1' in HwMonitor is equivalent to HWiNFO64's CPU temp, Aida64's CPU temp and SpeedFan's TMPIN2. And hence this is CPU temperature.

This proves 'TMPIN2' in HwMonitor obviously is NB temps.

I experienced when CPU temp warning alarm is set to 60c in BIOS, motherboard plays a buzzer sound exactly when HwMonitor's TMPIN1 value reaches to 60c.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> maybe I just a random guy around here... I gave you all the proof you need but if you don't read I can't do much more about it.


I can read, And what I read from you was not backed up by any proof, purely assumption with no fact to back it up. However one of my posts might explain the issue your having. Some people have problems with some temp monitors on these boards. for example if I use HardWareMonitor TMPIN01 and 02 will read maximum temps of 120c+. This is impossible, Both the CPU and board would have auto shut down long before those temps where reached. Let alone that the PCB is in danger of distorting/melting at those temps for prolonged time's.

Then on the other hand if I use AMD OVERDRIVE to check temps the CPU core's read 10c higher than all other programs.

So, my logical thinking leads me to think that you are experiancing similar temp reading issue's.


----------



## Wild Wally

Thanks for the elucidation sumitlian. They can't all be wrong...hopefully.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o591/b4rr3l/primeFXCrucial-2.jpg


If you remove the -11c alteration you made, I see no problem with the temps, your core temps would be higher than the socket tmep by a few C, which is normal. Another red flag is your lowest recorded core temps... How cold is it in your room? 16c = 60f...


----------



## Fordox

Why is it then, that when i change my cpu voltage to a higher setting, my tmpin2 sensor is giving me a waaay higher temp and al the other sensors don't?

I think it has to do with your cpu. with my athlon 2 x4 640 i also thought that my tmpin 1 sensor was de cpu for the same reason.
or it changed with the bios or a new batch?

strange...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Both of you should google 990FXA and hardware monitor. There are lots of people who get wrong or bad reading's with HardWareMonitor on this board. lots of threads have been started on OCN and other place's about the matter. Not to mention when the board first came out this club went though this debate, there is a reason that the club owner posted the info on the sensors on the front page of the club.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

ok so easy tune is wrong... and all other are right


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> If you remove the -11c alteration you made, I see no problem with the temps, your core temps would be higher than the socket tmep by a few C, which is normal. Another red flag is your lowest recorded core temps... How cold is it in your room? 16c = 60f...


No, my room is at 26 so it's impossible that cpu temp is 10c lower WCed, so Coretemp does have 10c offset. Tmpin2 can be cpu-NB temp but it's not chipset since it's correlated w/ core and easytune cpu temp. Tempin1 can be socket temp, but still having the -10C offset.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> ok so easy tune is wrong... and all other are right


I have never relyed on easytune. I put it in the same basket as ASUS PCProbe software, inaccurate junk at best. Core temp is a decent one, but it take's an average of the core temps( some say it use's the CPU socket) but I have no proof or tech thoughts on the latter theory.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B4rr3L Rid3R*
> 
> No, my room is at 26 so it's impossible that cpu temp is 10c lower WCed, so Coretemp does have 10c offset. Tmpin2 can be cpu-NB temp but it's not chipset since it's correlated w/ core and easytune cpu temp. Tempin1 can be socket temp, but still having the -10C offset.


And no, Its not the CPU-NB, that reside's in the CPU, as you overclock and add voltage to the CPU-NB your core temps will rise, TMPIN 02 is the sensor for an actual Chip-set on the mother board. That chip control's the PCI and if i'm not mistaken has to deal with how the SB dose its duty's.
I think you all see where I'm headed with this. Best of luck.

EDIT: A theory (never proved one way or the other) was that TMPIN00 relate's to the "sb" temp, but as its labled as "system temp" it could be anything really. I know it might be alot to ask but most all of this stuff has been beaten to death in this club, skimming over the pages might be highly informative.


----------



## sumitlian

I've heard somewhere that there is no way to get Core Temp on AMD CPU due to faulty sensor on AM2/AM3 CPU. In the term of temperature, AMD CPU can only send a throttling command when Critical Temperature is found. Critical temperature value has been fixed in the CPU. When CPU Temp (sensor in socket or Tjunction) value is matched to the CPU's critical Temp which is fixed in the CPU, BIOS then executes throttling command so that CPU may live safe.

All this means we can only believe in CPU Temp sensor fixed in Socket, All readings by this sensor is sent via a bus which is directly connected to Super I/O chip (IT8720F) and can obviously be considered as true reading.

CPU case Temp (Tcase) matters too. AMD says 62c is max CPU case temp. AMD says that because there must be a relation between Tcase and Tctl. There is high chances that if Tcase reaches to 62c, it means Tctl is at max value. All this means we only need to somehow measure CPU case (where thermal paste is applied) temp either by thermal diode or by Infrared temp sensing device.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> I've heard somewhere that there is no way to get Core Temp on AMD CPU due to faulty sensor on AM2/AM3 CPU. In the term of temperature, AMD CPU can only send a throttling command when Critical Temperature is found. Critical temperature value has been fixed in the CPU. When CPU Temp (sensor in socket or Tjunction) value is matched to the CPU's critical Temp which is fixed in the CPU, BIOS then executes throttling command so that CPU may live safe.
> All this means we can only believe in CPU Temp sensor fixed in Socket, All readings by this sensor is sent via a bus which is directly connected to Super I/O chip (IT8720F) and can obviously be considered as true reading.
> CPU case Temp (Tcase) matters too. AMD says 62c is max CPU case temp. AMD says that because there must be a relation between Tcase and Tctl. There is high chances that if Tcase reaches to 62c, it means Tctl is at max value. All this means we only need to somehow measure CPU case (where thermal paste is applied) temp either by thermal diode or by Infrared temp sensing device.


Never heard this before, but it might be worth looking into? With any luck some one with more info can shed some light on the subject before I have to use some google-fu







I honestly wouldn't be surprised if it was true though.


----------



## Fordox

this is something interresting for you, i found it on tweakers.net (dutch hardware site), and according to the poster, it was also posted on this forum but here it is again:

***********
Hey guys,

After reading many discussions about what temp (core vs CPU) to use and how high this temperature is I decided to contact AMD themselves.

Now, today, about 3 weeks after first contacting them, I got a PROPER reply from a AMD guy that explains the whole lot.

Note, this is an official AMD Tech Support guy/girl and I trust that he/she knows what he/she is saying.
Quote:


> quote: AMD Tech Rep
> Dear Customer,
> 
> Your service request : SR #{ticketno:[8200474044]} has been reviewed and updated.
> 
> Response and Service Request History:
> 
> In general, we like to see temperature readings for your CPU around 30-50 C.
> The official max is somewhere around 75-80 C depending,
> 
> The temperatures you show are not in any danger zones, and what they are useful for is to establish a baseline.
> You know what "normal" is now, and if you get instability, and those readings haven't changed, then it probably isn't a heat problem.
> 
> You also know that if you see temps significantly higher than that in the future, that you need to check the airflow in your case, or clean the heatsink, or something like that.
> 
> Please check also this very good article that provides information on How to check CPU temperature:A complete guide to Check CPU temperature through BIOS or software on all operating system
> 
> http://rancidtaste.hubpag...e-on-all-operating-system
> 
> In order to update this service request, please respond, leaving the service request reference intact.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> AMD Global Customer Care


They recommend the use of speedfan / everest and the BIOS shows the CPU temp which is the one to go by. So, that's one thing finally cleared up, CPU temps matter, not Core.

Optimal temperatures for 24/7 usage are between 30c or lower idle and 50c or lower load. Optimal, meaning they CAN be higher.
I stated in my original question that there was a time their CPU specs mentioned 62.7c as max. That's where the part of not being in the danger zone yet comes in. Meaning, 65c is fine for a AMD CPU and it can withstand a lot more without any damage.

The next bit is him saying 75-80c is the official max. Depending meaning depending on the CPU model, a x2/x3 for example (80c) can probably have a bit more then a x4/x6 (75c).

Then next is the reason why AMD and 3rd parties keep 60c as a max: CPU's CAN get unstable with higher temperatures. They don't have to, but can.

Also, reading this, it makes me believe that the next statement I came up with just now is true:
My highly overclocked CPU runs 73c in LinX and hits 68c in-game but is perfectly stable.
- Nothing wrong with the above. It's within official maxes and the ''baseline'' he spoke about is a temperature at which it's stable. So, nothing wrong then eh!

Now, I have previously tested this, and yes, there's a truth to that cause my CPU does get unstable at about 68c CPU. Cores usually around 60c then. It will crash in a stresstest if I get it any hotter then that number. Can reproduce it perfectly cause every time it hits 68-69c it crashes within 10 minutes while keeping it under that at identical settings passes 2 hours. (Tested with LinX @ 7000MB).

So, let me hear it guys. This any good? smile.gif

***********
this explains that the amd cpu-temps may be higher to around 75-80 degrees. in the 60 to 75 degrees zone, your processor get unstable a lot faster than at a lower temperature but it's not dangerous for your processor. of your cpu is overclocked with a load temp of ~75 degrees and stable, you won't damage your cpu.

this is only about the temps of the AMD processors. maybe also worth to look into?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

All of that is well known on the forum lol. I personally like to keep my 955BE at 55c or under for stability issue's with my oc (4.0Ghz and 2800CPU-NB). its also known that the socket temps is pretty useless because the actual core's should be warmer than the socket temp. I have heard that water cooler's can have a higher socket temp than core temp though. Good to have more proof from AMD.


----------



## LesPaulLover

I can confirm the above.

Before I reapplied my new thermal paste, my temps would simply rise indefinitely (slowly....but still, indefinitely) As they rose, I would always fail Prime95 sometime after my CPU core temps move past the 58c mark.

Since I've reapplied my thermal paste, my temps never rise above 51c. This simple 7c difference seems to have made ALL difference: I can now easily pass Prime95 with the same OC settings.

Hell I can even pass my ultimate stress test now -- Running 2+ hours of Prime95(blend) AND Unigine looped at the same time. If my rig can do this without crashing I always consider it stable.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LesPaulLover*
> 
> I can confirm the above.
> Before I reapplied my new thermal paste, my temps would simply rise indefinitely (slowly....but still, indefinitely) As they rose, I would always fail Prime95 sometime after my CPU core temps move past the 58c mark.
> Since I've reapplied my thermal paste, my temps never rise above 51c. This simple 7c difference seems to have made ALL difference: I can now easily pass Prime95 with the same OC settings.
> Hell I can even pass my ultimate stress test now -- Running 2+ hours of Prime95(blend) AND Unigine looped at the same time. If my rig can do this without crashing I always consider it stable.


Yea, I have taken to recomending that Phenom II user's keep it below 55c for overclocking, 62c for stock







I have heard of a few phenom's being able to hold a nice OC and get past the mid 50's but it's very rare. Not to mention cooler is always better


----------



## Fordox

If you really want to see a perfectly stable system, i allways use a linpack software (I use linx) and furmark for about 2,5 to 5 hours with linx set with memory on all.

You can't stress your pc any harder with that. linx gets your CPU about 8 degrees hotter than prime95 and with memory on all, you stress all your memory on the same time. and furmark is unrealistic high gpu load and never reachable with any game or benchmark.
I do recommend to start furmark first, because once you started linx, you allmost can't do anything anymore with your pc.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Good tips fordox. I do a similar stress test on my rigs. I First let Prime go on custom blend, settings to it use as much RAM as possible for around 15-20 hours(long enough to run ALL FFT's) If it pass's I run IBT and furmark for a few hours at the same time(with RAM usage maxed out). Same basic principle as your testing method







It create's unrealistic demand on the hardware (well, for most average user's).


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Good tips fordox. I do a similar stress test on my rigs. I First let Prime go on custom blend, settings to it use as much RAM as possible for around 15-20 hours(long enough to run ALL FFT's) If it pass's I run IBT and furmark for a few hours at the same time(with RAM usage maxed out). Same basic principle as your testing method
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It create's unrealistic demand on the hardware (well, for most average user's).


Lord, I would get NO sleep for that time being. I would be afraid of a fire! My 4890s get freaking hot under load. Plus, I do to much work work on my comp to be down that long. So 2-3hrs max testing. Which is why I'm only at 4Ghz overclock and my cards are only at 900/975Mhz


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> Lord, I would get NO sleep for that time being. I would be afraid of a fire! My 4890s get freaking hot under load. Plus, I do to much work work on my comp to be down that long. So 2-3hrs max testing. Which is why I'm only at 4Ghz overclock and my cards are only at 900/975Mhz


Yes, but it great for pushing a system. When I was playing with 955 be (4.0/2800 and CF 6950's both unlocked and clocked) temps peaked where very high, 54-56 pending on the CPU core, 85 for lower GPU and 93 for upper. The mobo Northbridge was also screaming at 75c. Ran it like that for 24 hours. Not a single crash/freeze/BSOD or anything. Been running 24/7 for over 6 months and not a single hick up. Did the same when I build my i5 rig









As for losing the PC for that long, I feel its manditroy to stress test. Even on a brand new PC that is going to stay at stock clocks. Better to find out you have faulty hardware or an issue now so it can be addressed properly rather than find out later the hard way lol.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Good tips fordox. I do a similar stress test on my rigs. I First let Prime go on custom blend, settings to it use as much RAM as possible for around 15-20 hours(long enough to run ALL FFT's) If it pass's I run IBT and furmark for a few hours at the same time(with RAM usage maxed out). Same basic principle as your testing method
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It create's unrealistic demand on the hardware (well, for most average user's).


thanks, but bear in mind that prime95 load is allmost nothing compared to the load of linx









if you are 1 hour prime stable, your system will crash in 5 minutes by linx. its allmost impossible to have a max clock of prime and the max clock of linx on the same speed. linx is very brutal. it also adds about 5 to 8 degrees on your cpu. try it, and you'll know what I'm talking about


----------



## Rebelord

Khaotic: I agree, stress testing is mandatory. I just dont do it for as long myself. Which I *know* I should.








I do know, my Corsair memory does NOT like to run faster than stock speed.







But my G.Skills I can bring the timings down a bit but still at 1600Mhz. If I played around more I know I could get faster. /shrug
To be honest, I personally have had a harder time overclocking on AMD setups than any of my older Intel setups. Probably because I did run Intel since ~92 when I started with a Pentium 75.
I do love the features of my UD7, the sound is worlds better than my old P5Q Pro board. Even running it to my receiver. Plus to me it looks very nice in the color schema. Only issue I don't like is it is a very wide mother board. Because of the width, I can only use the top Sata ports. Since it reaches all the way to the edge of the motherboard indent in my case. Ill attach the pics to show. Before my 550D it barely, I mean barely fit in my Antec 300. Plus had to cut and drill and mangle the piss outta it just to get power cables routed. But I know that the 300 is a starter case, which I did purchase 2008.
http://www.overclock.net/t/572373/official-corsair-obsidian-club/4200_20#post_17083805


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> thanks, but bear in mind that prime95 load is allmost nothing compared to the load of linx
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if you are 1 hour prime stable, your system will crash in 5 minutes by linx. its allmost impossible to have a max clock of prime and the max clock of linx on the same speed. linx is very brutal. it also adds about 5 to 8 degrees on your cpu. try it, and you'll know what I'm talking about


Prime is just ran to test the FFT's. I use IBT +furmark for the long haul. I have used linx and have the same results I just personally perfer to use prime95, IBT+furmark







100% usage is 100% usage. Beside's I don't do anything that would put that much load on my system ever lol. I think the Prime95 vs IBT vs linx all add's up the same way. My system doesn't crash in linx









@rebelord: I had the a similar issue. I'm great with overclocking AMD's, My i5 is still "weird" to me when I try to fine tune the BIOS. getting it stable at 4.8Ghz took a long while and it could use some major refinement. I know this bad boy could pull 5.0 on air if I could manage to tweak it.
my 955be clocked up to 4.0 like butter after getting the UD3. My old board wouldn't allow anything past about 3.6Ghz with out freezing (cheap low end ASUS mobo).


----------



## Rebelord

Nice. Maybe you could shine some light.
This is where I am at currently:

Found my OC to keep.
4Ghz @ 1.488 vid (after vdroop)
NB @ 3Ghz
HT @ 2Ghz
1600Mhz @ 9-9-9-24t 1.5v
Stable, plus with C1E and Kool n Quiet enabled for no load down clocking.

I can reach 4.2Ghz++ However, I have to boot with way to much Vcore voltage to compensate for vdroop I dont feel comfortable.

I can get my ram timings down to 8-9-8-24t 1t @1.5v. But would like to keep low timings and would love to get them to a higher freq. I know on this board, Sin088 was able to get a set of G.Skill ram sticks. similar to mine above 1800Mhz and a 4.5Ghz clock on a 1100t. I know I may be limited more on my 1090t. But would love to go higher.
Do note, the Vdroop I do have. 1.488 on load 1.575 set in bios I believe. If not 1.575 then its 1.550. I do know from testing the droop difference is consistent across voltages.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Prime is just ran to test the FFT's. I use IBT +furmark for the long haul. I have used linx and have the same results I just personally perfer to use prime95, IBT+furmark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 100% usage is 100% usage. Beside's I don't do anything that would put that much load on my system ever lol. I think the Prime95 vs IBT vs linx all add's up the same way. My system doesn't crash in linx


that is true, but prime tests take longer. if you want to test your system for stability in a faster way, linx is better. it uses the memory differently. prime has larger and smaller fft's and calculations, linx is a pure blend and random calculations with memory also 90-100% used. i have never seen that with prime.
so because of the duration of the stresstest, i allways use linx for overclocking. it is faster to see if your system is stable or not. only the downside is that you can't use your pc with linx and you can with prime95.


----------



## Rebelord

Speaking of LinX where is the best place to get the current version?
Edit: I think I found it. But then I have the issue of where it wont load up my AMD cpu at all.


----------



## Fordox

http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/663563/LinX/LinX-setup.exe
try this one. this is an installation file, i had the same problem as you with a simpel .exe file.

and be sure to run linx as administrator
and be sure to run your memory on all, linx will first load your memory and when it has reached it's maximum, than it will give your cpu 100% load.
use taskmanager


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> Nice. Maybe you could shine some light.
> This is where I am at currently:
> Found my OC to keep.
> 4Ghz @ 1.488 vid (after vdroop)
> NB @ 3Ghz
> HT @ 2Ghz
> 1600Mhz @ 9-9-9-24t 1.5v
> Stable, plus with C1E and Kool n Quiet enabled for no load down clocking.
> I can reach 4.2Ghz++ However, I have to boot with way to much Vcore voltage to compensate for vdroop I dont feel comfortable.
> I can get my ram timings down to 8-9-8-24t 1t @1.5v. But would like to keep low timings and would love to get them to a higher freq. I know on this board, Sin088 was able to get a set of G.Skill ram sticks. similar to mine above 1800Mhz and a 4.5Ghz clock on a 1100t. I know I may be limited more on my 1090t. But would love to go higher.
> Do note, the Vdroop I do have. 1.488 on load 1.575 set in bios I believe. If not 1.575 then its 1.550. I do know from testing the droop difference is consistent across voltages.


that's some serious Vdroop! What is your overall goal with the overclock? Like is this a gaming machine, or do you do media encoding? I have always attempted to maximize the OC for what the PC is going to be used for rather than push everything to the absolute maximum, unless your trying to get maximum benchmark score's. Dose your revision of the UD7 have LLC or not? and what temps do you run with that voltage and settings? also is 1600Mhz @ 9-9-9-24t stock RAM settings or is that an overclock? Lastly how many DIMM's of RAM are you using? I might be able to assist in some minor refinements but you seem to have a pretty darn good start from the looks of it. For the most part once you hit 4.0 with a phenom II (4 or 6 core) you've pretty much hit the top for aircooling/Closed loop system's. More extreme cooling solutions are needed in most case's to break past that range.

Example: I use a Silver Arrow with 2x San Ace 1011's and its hard for me to keep temps in check when going past 4.2 range. So much so that its unstable. The sad part is that my S/A and 1011's is not a joke when it comes to cooling. Its just not strong enough for a more extreme OC. I need a full water loop lol.


----------



## Vesku

Any reason to go from F5 to F6 with the UD3 Rev 1.0 and a 1090T?


----------



## bcudasteve

F7 bios for the UD-5 is on Gigabyte's site


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> that's some serious Vdroop! What is your overall goal with the overclock? Like is this a gaming machine, or do you do media encoding? I have always attempted to maximize the OC for what the PC is going to be used for rather than push everything to the absolute maximum, unless your trying to get maximum benchmark score's. Dose your revision of the UD7 have LLC or not? and what temps do you run with that voltage and settings? also is 1600Mhz @ 9-9-9-24t stock RAM settings or is that an overclock? Lastly how many DIMM's of RAM are you using? I might be able to assist in some minor refinements but you seem to have a pretty darn good start from the looks of it. For the most part once you hit 4.0 with a phenom II (4 or 6 core) you've pretty much hit the top for aircooling/Closed loop system's. More extreme cooling solutions are needed in most case's to break past that range.
> Example: I use a Silver Arrow with 2x San Ace 1011's and its hard for me to keep temps in check when going past 4.2 range. So much so that its unstable. The sad part is that my S/A and 1011's is not a joke when it comes to cooling. Its just not strong enough for a more extreme OC. I need a full water loop lol.



Goal: Mostly gaming machine. I do try to run my VM's on it. But my laptop seems to run circles around this desktop when running them. (i7-920m 4c/4t 8G ram)

My UD7 does not have LLC, my UD7 is a early UD7 from Gigabyte. It was the one that Sin088 used to do his REVIEW of it. Plus then used for his BD OC'ing GUIDE. (He used a non public Bios in that)

Temps: Idle is near ambient: 24/25*c. Load: 50*c is the max it has gotten to.

The memory; 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24t is stock settings. I am running 2 Dimms. Slots 1&2.

I am running 2 Yate loon high speeds in pull on my H100. Not connected to the H100 controller, connected straight to a molex power for full RPM's. Pretty much same amount of noise from them. _Which are now squeaking. Need to oil them_
If anything, I am fine with 4Ghz. but would love to get a full 1Ghz overclock to at least 4.2Ghz.







Plus would really like to get my ram running faster, and if possible faster timings.

Rebelord

Edit: So, I tried your method of stress testing. Loaded up Kombuster from MSI for full GPU load. Then started Linx for CPU/Memory stress.








OMG, so apparently there are about 4 other outlets on the same circuit as the one my computer is using. Lamps starting flickering, clock just stopped. I let it run for a few minutes then stopped. Didnt want the house to catch on fire. Heh


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vesku*
> 
> Any reason to go from F5 to F6 with the UD3 Rev 1.0 and a 1090T?


For overclocking, if your motherboard exceeds a set tdp, the cpu will throttle down. (APM master mode). you can disable this with F6, not with F5.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rebelord*
> 
> 
> Goal: Mostly gaming machine. I do try to run my VM's on it. But my laptop seems to run circles around this desktop when running them. (i7-920m 4c/4t 8G ram)
> My UD7 does not have LLC, my UD7 is a early UD7 from Gigabyte. It was the one that Sin088 used to do his REVIEW of it. Plus then used for his BD OC'ing GUIDE. (He used a non public Bios in that)
> Temps: Idle is near ambient: 24/25*c. Load: 50*c is the max it has gotten to.
> The memory; 1600Mhz 9-9-9-24t is stock settings. I am running 2 Dimms. Slots 1&2.
> I am running 2 Yate loon high speeds in pull on my H100. Not connected to the H100 controller, connected straight to a molex power for full RPM's. Pretty much same amount of noise from them. _Which are now squeaking. Need to oil them_
> If anything, I am fine with 4Ghz. but would love to get a full 1Ghz overclock to at least 4.2Ghz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus would really like to get my ram running faster, and if possible faster timings.
> Rebelord
> Edit: So, I tried your method of stress testing. Loaded up Kombuster from MSI for full GPU load. Then started Linx for CPU/Memory stress.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OMG, so apparently there are about 4 other outlets on the same circuit as the one my computer is using. Lamps starting flickering, clock just stopped. I let it run for a few minutes then stopped. Didnt want the house to catch on fire. Heh


Great, Few more questions. What is your CPU-NB Voltage at? Have you messed with HT link speeds at all? Ever mess with HT link? some people have claimed slight raises in stability. Lastly what RAM timing and freq's have you toyed with? In my experience overclocking RAM on a Phenom II can be a brutal task. Thuban's do better than denab's with RAM OC's but its still hit and miss. I would also like to add that in gaming, your not going to notice much of a difference in RAM timings and speed over what you have. However you want to fine tune your RAM performance you should drop your Freq and raise your timings(I would also bump the voltage up a notch or two) as AMD's tend to favor tight and low timings over freq, In a perfect world you net a 1-3 FPS gain at max from playing with RAM settings but you might be able to lower the amount of stress on the IMC allowing you to gain your extra 200Mhz.

I will also say that from a gaming prospective you'er not going to get much more "real world" performance from refining your OC further, but it will be fun to play with







I cannot notice any difference between 3.6Ghz and 2400 CPU-NB and 4.0 and 2800 CPU-NB on my quad and your CPU has a bit more gusto than mine from the start. Also when refining an OC you might also be able to get a higher clock stable but performance will actually go down some. To check up on this, Pick a benchmark and run it at stock, note the results and then slowly work your CPU back to you highest known OC. If your score's start dropping then you've hit that proverbial "wall of performance gains".


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> F7 bios for the UD-5 is on Gigabyte's site


Tried it dropped it. I get a crazy vdrop with F7. At 1.45v it drops to 1.29v Back to F7C for me. I wish I could find f6c as that seemed to be the best for me before.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> Tried it dropped it. I get a crazy vdrop with F7. At 1.45v it drops to 1.29v Back to F7C for me. I wish I could find f6c as that seemed to be the best for me before.


The earliest bios I have saved is F6f


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> For overclocking, if your motherboard exceeds a set tdp, the cpu will throttle down. (APM master mode). you can disable this with F6, not with F5.


1090T doesnt have this so F5 is best for 1090T.


----------



## jraveendranath

here with a UD3 mobo..


----------



## Obfuscator

I took a couple of pictures of my system a while back with the intention of posting them here. The cable management is not the best, but good enough for me (I am always open to suggestions).


----------



## Wild Wally

Looks way better than mine for cable management. I use an old Lian-Li which was not designed with that in mind but still works great.


----------



## Obfuscator

Thanks for your feedback Wild Wally. The cluster of cables out of the power supply had a tendency to bend in a way that put it a little too close to the fan on my Noctua heatsink, so I figured I would use one of the zip ties I had on hand to keep it away.


----------



## kzone75

F7 BIOS for UD3 out now.. http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894&dl=1#bios


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Modify VRM MOS function compatibility


Interested I am...


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Interested I am...


what does it mean, a lot less vdroop, or LLC function in the bios?
if it's that, interested I am too









thanks for the heads up


----------



## kzone75

No idea what it means. Noticed any difference, I did not. But I do know that it wouldn't let me go past 4.6GHz with any voltage (even tried with 1.7v and it still gave me bsod code 101). CPU voltage control is as goofy as it was with F6 (1.55v in the BIOS for 4.6GHz shows 1.42v in CPUz). And that is _not_ vdroop. Don't think I ever had vdroop problems with this mobo.. It goes the other way instead but only by 0.03v.

I went back to F6c again..


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> No idea what it means. Noticed any difference, I did not. But I do know that it wouldn't let me go past 4.6GHz with any voltage (even tried with 1.7v and it still gave me bsod code 101). CPU voltage control is as goofy as it was with F6 (1.55v in the BIOS for 4.6GHz shows 1.42v in CPUz). And that is _not_ vdroop. Don't think I ever had vdroop problems with this mobo.. It goes the other way instead but only by 0.03v.
> I went back to F6c again..


i've noticed that this board "vboosts" as well. I think its related to the boards vrm configuration... no DrMOS...

bios voltage has never been directly proportionate to real applied voltage for me either...

But once amp draw rises, voltage does drop... I would think that a bulldozer chip will have a much higher amp draw than even my x6...


----------



## cmac68

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> No idea what it means. Noticed any difference, I did not. But I do know that it wouldn't let me go past 4.6GHz with any voltage (even tried with 1.7v and it still gave me bsod code 101). CPU voltage control is as goofy as it was with F6 (1.55v in the BIOS for 4.6GHz shows 1.42v in CPUz). And that is _not_ vdroop. Don't think I ever had vdroop problems with this mobo.. It goes the other way instead but only by 0.03v.
> I went back to F6c again..


FX chips react the exact opposite of this. With my 8120 tthe bios voltage is set to 1.425v @ 4.7GHz but it will idle at 1.34v and under load jump to 1.41v. With my 960t I have the bios set to 1.45v @ 4.2GHz but it will idle at 1.49v and under load it will drop to 1.44v

The best bios I have used with Phenom II to date is still F5 but I didn't bother with any of the F6 beta bios because they didn't really fix anything except with FX chips.


----------



## kzone75

^^Interesting.. Do you have any power savings on when using the FX?

Tried F7 again because I am bored.. DO NOT use it for FX chips if you are OCing. Got both vdroop and "vboost". Did a quick run with cinebench at 4.6GHz. The voltages went randomly from 1.365 all the way to 1.488v. Fluctuating like crazy. Power savings are off of course. I had it set to 1.525v in the BIOS. And in CPUz, when idle, it showed 1.424v. I don't want to know what the differences would be using any heavy stress testing tools. Plus my score went down with 1.20 points in CB..







So I don't know what "Modify VRM MOS function compatibility" does but I don't like it.









I do think that F7 would be ok when not overclocked though. But where's the fun in that?


----------



## cmac68

I'm currently using F7 and see no real difference from F6. I'm actually pushing my clock a bit more from 4.66GHz to 4.7GHz only because I'm slowly trying to push my RAM a bit further with no stability issues. All power saving features are disabled.


----------



## kzone75

Guess I have a very weird motherboard then..







Well all is fine and dandy with F6c, so I guess I'll keep using that.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Guess I have a very weird motherboard then..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well all is fine and dandy with F6c, so I guess I'll keep using that.


If only we could hard-mod removing a 0 Ω resistor and installing a 100 Ω resistor in the power circuitary. Then of course we could also have LLC function.This is power circuitry of UD7 rev 1.0 and Rev 1.1. I believe our UD3 and UD5 suffer from this issue.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Guess I have a very weird motherboard then..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well all is fine and dandy with F6c, so I guess I'll keep using that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If only we could hard-mod removing a 0 Ω resistor and installing a 100 Ω resistor in the power circuitary. Then of course we could also have LLC function.This is power circuitry of UD7 rev 1.0 and Rev 1.1. I believe our UD3 and UD5 suffer from this issue.
Click to expand...

What about the 1.2 revision of UD3? The power circuitry looks the same on both 1.0 and 1.1, but there are more resistors in 1.2..?


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> What about the 1.2 revision of UD3? The power circuitry looks the same on both 1.0 and 1.1, but there are more resistors in 1.2..?


Well....I really don't know about rev. 1.2, Obviously it should have LLC. But if rev. 1.1 has LLC too over Rev. 1.0 then it is fine.


----------



## Bkpizza

I have a 1.1 board and it has LLC on it. Best option was Ultra-High, only gave a small v-boost.


----------



## rodercot

Hey Guys,

Hope you can help, I got a UD5, 8150 and mushkin redline 1866 pc3-14900 9-10-9-24 1.5V installed the system with a antec 920 and win7 pro. It all booted up at stock and seemed ok with the ram at 1333 tried to o/c just ram at 1.65 to 1866 bsod, windows failed to start. updated to F7 bios with @bios still no go, dropped to 1600 still no go, got it to boot at 1866 with all stock once only changing memory clock and voltage to 1.6 but windows failed to start again.

The bios keeps trying to back up on boot with every little change as well and the other thing is that when windows is loading at stock clocks I cannot run ANY of the Gigabyte utilities ET6 fails to install or if it does it runs but only with test no graphics.

I am returning the ram today and will swap for vengeance or kingston and will try, I am leaning towards a flaky board. It is a Rev 1.0 @bios installed F7 on update.

rgds,

D.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rodercot*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> Hope you can help, I got a UD5, 8150 and mushkin redline 1866 pc3-14900 9-10-9-24 1.5V installed the system with a antec 920 and win7 pro. It all booted up at stock and seemed ok with the ram at 1333 tried to o/c just ram at 1.65 to 1866 bsod, windows failed to start. updated to F7 bios with @bios still no go, dropped to 1600 still no go, got it to boot at 1866 with all stock once only changing memory clock and voltage to 1.6 but windows failed to start again.
> The bios keeps trying to back up on boot with every little change as well and the other thing is that when windows is loading at stock clocks I cannot run ANY of the Gigabyte utilities ET6 fails to install or if it does it runs but only with test no graphics.
> I am returning the ram today and will swap for vengeance or kingston and will try, I am leaning towards a flaky board. It is a Rev 1.0 @bios installed F7 on update.
> rgds,
> D.


You are going to have to try and change your multiplier on the FSB rather than just the memory clock. Also, more than 2 sticks will give you problems. At 2 sticks I boot regularly on 8 GB of GSkill 1866 sniper at 1600. When I add 2 more sticks I can only get to 1333. Any attempt to clock it to anthing higher using the memory clock gives me the BSOD or it just won't boot at all.


----------



## Wild Wally

Having a strange and frustrating issue with my rig. It's a GA-990FXA-UD7 @ F8 BIOS with an FX-8150 with 16 GB of matched GSkill 1866 snipers running at 1333.

The issue is the computer will not restart. It gets as far as identifying the processor and BIOS rev and then freezes. I've done the usual including reseating the CPU, reseating the memory, reseating the add-on cards, reseating the SSD and botting with just the CPU and memory. Nothing works consistently. One time I just left it stuck on POST and it just came back to life, finished the post and restarted normally. The only connecting factor seems to be the computer installs an MS update while shutting down. I doubt this has anything to do with it as the PC is up to date and this just started happening over the weekend.









Any thoughts? OS is Win7 Ultimate SP1.


----------



## moonmanas

UD5 owners we have a new bios to mess with F8 going to get it now









http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#bios


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas*
> 
> UD5 owners we have a new bios to mess with F8a going to get it now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#bios


Now they are supporting low cost server CPU based on Bulldozer on AM3+ socket.








However they haven't mentioned if they are fixing any issue with previous CPUs rather than implementing only Opteron's CPUID in this new BIOS.
Should I try this with my Thuban ?


----------



## DrProctor

Hey guys,

my old GA-790FXTA UD5 broke and took my PII 965 with it so i got a new PII X6 1090T and a new mainboard.
I did by the 990FXA UD3 because my mosfet and nortbridge watercoolers are known to fit.
I did not use it and could still return it.

I plan on overclocking the 1090T but reading this thread (not entirely yet thats why i ask) made me rethink.
My watercoolers seem to fit the UD5 too, maybe someone already knows it or could check if the mounting holes are the same for UD3 and UD5.

So i'd like to know which board is better to use with the 1090T and which bios version seems to be best.

I didn't rebuy my 790FXTA because in germany it costs more than the 990FXA UD7 and spending this much on such an old lady seems kind of idiotic.
My 965 ran on 3,9ghz under load and i hope the same for my new 1090T or hitting even 4.0ghz with disabled turbo and reasonable vcore. i dont want to "ruin" it with a bad mainboard if the cpu itself is capable...

thanks already









btw. my UD3 is rev. 1.2


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrProctor*
> 
> Hey guys,
> my old GA-790FXTA UD5 broke and took my PII 965 with it so i got a new PII X6 1090T and a new mainboard.
> I did by the 990FXA UD3 because my mosfet and nortbridge watercoolers are known to fit.
> I did not use it and could still return it.
> I plan on overclocking the 1090T but reading this thread (not entirely yet thats why i ask) made me rethink.
> My watercoolers seem to fit the UD5 too, maybe someone already knows it or could check if the mounting holes are the same for UD3 and UD5.
> So i'd like to know which board is better to use with the 1090T and which bios version seems to be best.
> I didn't rebuy my 790FXTA because in germany it costs more than the 990FXA UD7 and spending this much on such an old lady seems kind of idiotic.
> My 965 ran on 3,9ghz under load and i hope the same for my new 1090T or hitting even 4.0ghz with disabled turbo and reasonable vcore. i dont want to "ruin" it with a bad mainboard if the cpu itself is capable...
> thanks already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw. my UD3 is rev. 1.2


It appears that the UD3 is much easier to overclock than the UD5 or UD7 by reading through this club/thread.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

I agree with bcudasteve. my UD3 is a 1.0 with no LLC. My 955/UD3 system overclocks very well without it though, would be nice to play with LLC on it I say keep it.


----------



## DrProctor

I've read about the first 50 pages of the thread and then started to read from the back.
After page 300 or so were a few posts from khaotickomputing and madgoat and some others that made the boards look better than the *****ing most others did.
I'll stay with the UD3 and see what it does.

The UD5 Raidcontroller is a different from the one on my 790 so i can't recover data anyway.


----------



## kzone75

They've changed the description for the F7 BIOS for UD3 rev 1.0 now. Add VRM MOS protection & Support Opteron 3280 CPU


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Having a strange and frustrating issue with my rig. It's a GA-990FXA-UD7 @ F8 BIOS with an FX-8150 with 16 GB of matched GSkill 1866 snipers running at 1333.
> The issue is the computer will not restart. It gets as far as identifying the processor and BIOS rev and then freezes. I've done the usual including reseating the CPU, reseating the memory, reseating the add-on cards, reseating the SSD and botting with just the CPU and memory. Nothing works consistently. One time I just left it stuck on POST and it just came back to life, finished the post and restarted normally. The only connecting factor seems to be the computer installs an MS update while shutting down. I doubt this has anything to do with it as the PC is up to date and this just started happening over the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? OS is Win7 Ultimate SP1.


Hopefully someone has solved this issue in the past or has more of a clue than I do. All suggestions, including wearing a tinfoil hat are accepted!!!

Thanks in advance, WW


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moonmanas*
> 
> UD5 owners we have a new bios to mess with F8a going to get it now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#bios


The link now shows F8, the 'a' is gone


----------



## zvonexp

Full stable - http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2381261


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Hopefully someone has solved this issue in the past or has more of a clue than I do. All suggestions, including wearing a tinfoil hat are accepted!!!
> Thanks in advance, WW


Solved it finally. Turned out to be a USB hub which doesn't play well with the GA-990FXA-UD7 extra power USB 3.0 header.









WW


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Solved it finally. Turned out to be a USB hub which doesn't play well with the GA-990FXA-UD7 extra power USB 3.0 header.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WW


Wild Wally,

Did that problem appear after a bios update?


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Wild Wally,
> Did that problem appear after a bios update?


Nope, just came out of the blue. That's what made it so hard to find.

WW


----------



## DrProctor

Hey,

me again. Running my 1090T on 3400Mhz now with ram at 1600 Cl9 and stock voltages and with the boxed cooler.
When my case is back together and watercooling is running again i'll see what's possible.

Bios F5 is mostly recommended for UD3 and Phenom II but all i see at Gigabyte is FA FB and FC.
TouchBios says my version is FA, maybe when booting it'll show the "real number".

E: Ok got it myself. for rev 1.0 and 1.1 its F5 which is FB for 1.2. FC equals F6.
Mine says FA, i'll try it and maybe update to FB.


----------



## patricksiglin

If anyone has BIOS F6C for the UD5 please let me know. I think this was the one that worked the best for my setup.


----------



## bmgjet

Just updated to F7 for my UD3.
Improves a few things like v-drop and v-raise, Also my SSD is back to full speed in tests and I can run my ram at its rated speed/voltage.
But just like every update since F6C my overclocking is even lower, Now all I can manage is 4.5ghz on 1.42V and higher and I get a black screen restart.
F6K my max was 4.7ghz on 1.48V before blue screen.
And F6C 5.1ghz on 1.52V before blue screen.

Im guessing the black screen restart is due to the "VRM MOS protection". But I guess ill just stick to F7 since F6C/F6K my SSD only gets half the speed its ment to with AHCI enabled. Atleast the chip will like that under prime max temp is only 48C now instead of 60C at 5ghz.


----------



## terminx

Picked up a UD5 for $130 shipped on eBay the other day with 2+ years left on the warranty, but I'm pretty sure it's a rev 1.0 board (didn't know there was a 1.1 when I installed it and I'm not about to rip the rig apart now to check). Running a Phenom II X4 955 @ 17.5 x 229 (4007MHz).

Memory is running 8-9-8-21 at 1832MHz, which is better than I expected out of a Deneb IMC. Seems like a pretty solid board even with the "vdroop" going on. I guess I'll find out how well the VRM on this board holds up pretty quickly since the particular CPU I'm using pretty much sucks for overclocking and requires 1.6+v to hit 4.0, which means a CMOS setting of like 1.625 or 1.650v. Cooling it on air with an old Xigmatek HDT-S1284 with two 120x38mm Panaflo U1BX fans in push/pull... currently reading 51C after 15 min of Prime95 with AIDA64 reading the CPU voltage as between 1.584 and 1.600v under full load. I'm thinking of picking up a 1090 or 1100T sometime soonish since I want a CPU upgrade and I'm not entirely impressed by what I've seen of Bulldozer thus far.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> If anyone has BIOS F6C for the UD5 please let me know. I think this was the one that worked the best for my setup.


the earliest I have is F6f


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> If anyone has BIOS F6C for the UD5 please let me know. I think this was the one that worked the best for my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> the earliest I have is F6f
Click to expand...

I have f6d but I can not remember what they screwed up on that version.


----------



## w-moffatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *terminx*
> 
> I'm thinking of picking up a 1090 or 1100T sometime soonish since I want a CPU upgrade and I'm not entirely impressed by what I've seen of Bulldozer thus far.


im running an fx-8150 that i well got for free but thats besides the point, it runs really well. Im just a gamer but i have had no issues with it...runs 100x better than my old i-n-t-e-l.....LoL


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> I have f6d but I can not remember what they screwed up on that version.


Just a suggestion, but you could try the Gigabyte UK forum. They are usually pretty helpful there and you may find what you are looking for.

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?PHPSESSID=tqppa9tioieqirovhp33bs5pl3&board=6.0

WW


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> I have f6d but I can not remember what they screwed up on that version.
> 
> 
> 
> Just a suggestion, but you could try the Gigabyte UK forum. They are usually pretty helpful there and you may find what you are looking for.
> 
> http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?PHPSESSID=tqppa9tioieqirovhp33bs5pl3&board=6.0
> 
> WW
Click to expand...

Thanks I will check it out.


----------



## ebduncan

if anyone needs older bios, send me a message.

I have f5, f6c. f6e, f6k, f6f, f7.

Just downloaded F7, will see how it goes. I have been using f5 for awhile now, has worked the best for me. Will see if F7 does anything special.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> if anyone needs older bios, send me a message.
> I have f5, f6c. f6e, f6k, f6f, f7.
> Just downloaded F7, will see how it goes. I have been using f5 for awhile now, has worked the best for me. Will see if F7 does anything special.


¿What does "Add VRM MOS protection" exactly implies?


----------



## Wenty

Running F7 on my UD3..... Seems to be working fine.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> ¿What does "Add VRM MOS protection" exactly implies?


From my testing it seems to limit the max amount of voltage you can put before it restarts the PC. So if your overclocking this is something you dont want since I can only get 4.5ghz out of my chip with this bios compared to 5ghz with f6c


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> ¿What does "Add VRM MOS protection" exactly implies?


In overclocked state, when current requirement of CPU becomes so high that it reaches close or exceeds to the max limit what VRM can provide, then VRM's temp becomes extreme high because it reaches the max operational limit. This situation can blow up the whole VRM. To save VRMs from this type of heat damage, there is a command needs to be executed by BIOS that CPU frequency and voltage must throttle down to the safest value so that stress on VRMs may be reduced. I believe this is VRM Mos Protection. But I don't know why they implemented this again because our Bios had already a feature named 'Hardware Thermal Protection' which also seems to save components from heat damage.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> In overclocked state, when current requirement of CPU becomes so high that it reaches close or exceeds to the max limit what VRM can provide, then VRM's temp becomes extreme high because it reaches the max operational limit. This situation can blow up the whole VRM. To save VRMs from this type of heat damage, there is a command needs to be executed by BIOS that CPU frequency and voltage must throttle down to the safest value so that stress on VRMs may be reduced. I believe this is VRM Mos Protection. But I don't know why they implemented this again because our Bios had already a feature named 'Hardware Thermal Protection' which also seems to save components from heat damage.


Thank you for that information.
On that note tho, after I went from F6 to F7 it lowered the amount of voltage given to my RAM, even tho it was setted to 1.500v it only gave 1.485, I had to manually increased 0.15 to make my system stable.


----------



## Wenty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Thank you for that information.
> On that note tho, after I went from F6 to F7 it lowered the amount of voltage given to my RAM, even tho it was setted to 1.500v it only gave 1.485, I had to manually increased 0.15 to make my system stable.


Mine is the same way had to bump it up some to be at 1.5v. F5 BIOS did the same thing also.


----------



## vonss

This new BIOS has been RUBBISH for me, I can't do any OC that I did before, OC that was stable for 3 days till I updated the BIOS. I'm going back to F6.


----------



## vonss

Well, that didn't work, I still can't achive the same OC as before now. Since that "VRM MOS protection" I have to increase my CPU voltage from 1.375v to 1.400v to achive 3.8GHZ, which is the "Sweet spot" so to speak, if you can do it at 1.375v, that is.
¿Anyone knows of a way to force the MoBo to restore the back up bios settings? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Well, that didn't work, I still can't achive the same OC as before now. Since that "VRM MOS protection" I have to increase my CPU voltage from 1.375v to 1.400v to achive 3.8GHZ, which is the "Sweet spot" so to speak, if you can do it at 1.375v, that is.
> ¿Anyone knows of a way to force the MoBo to restore the back up bios settings? Thanks in advance.


The old Gigabyte boards used to allow you to manage the back up BIOS but I think they "idiot proofed" it now and made the update automatic.

In other words, once you successfully boot, you're stuck with what you just flashed. Always a good idea to save your BIOS before flashing a new one.

WW


----------



## vonss

So I'm screw in other words.
¿But why if i restore an older BIOS, the one I was usin' does not fix it? It Befuddles me!


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> So I'm screw in other words.
> ¿But why if i restore an older BIOS, the one I was usin' does not fix it? It Befuddles me!


I think the key is once you successfully boot or perhaps even just POST the back up BIOS is copied over with the current one. The way I read the description the back up BIOS only kicks in if you fail to POST or your primary BIOS becomes corrupted. This is a significant departure from the way it used to be.

WW


----------



## bmgjet

On my one I can get into backup bios by.
Hold down power button, Turn PSU switch off on while still holding power button then let power button go.
Will boot with bios with all safe settings, But the bios will be the same version as what the primary one is just with safe settings instead of defualt/overclocked settings.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> This is a significant departure from the way it used to be.WW


I couldn't agree more with that.
I guess I'll have to wait till the a new BIOS update or just suck it up.
I still can't emphasize enough how is it possible that using older BIOS does not fix this.
¿No one else had this problem?
I don't think it could be any other thing since everything else works as intended. This is far stretched, but the only other thing I did it was do some changes with TouchBios, but I hardly see how that affect it.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> On my one I can get into backup bios by.
> Hold down power button, Turn PSU switch off on while still holding power button then let power button go.
> Will boot with bios with all safe settings, But the bios will be the same version as what the primary one is just with safe settings instead of defualt/overclocked settings.


Yeah I know, that's the whole problem. I messed up and Gigabyte making this dual BIOS for "dummies" certainly didn't worked in my favor xD


----------



## Stealthy Wombat

I just bought a ga-990fxa-ud3 this week along with a phenom II 965 and 8GB (2x4gb) DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) Mushkin Blackline RAM and my memory clock in the bios only goes up to 8x so i can only get a RAM clock of 1600. I've seen people be able to use a 9.33x memory clock and i was wondering how/if I can do this or else i have to change my CPU Frequency to 250 to obtain a 2000MHz clock speed. If i can't get it to 2000 ill be happy with 1600 since i got it on sale at the same price as mushkin redline 1600 ram and can run the same timings with a lower voltage and still be stable.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealthy Wombat*
> 
> I just bought a ga-990fxa-ud3 this week along with a phenom II 965 and 8GB (2x4gb) DDR3 2000 (PC3 16000) Mushkin Blackline RAM and my memory clock in the bios only goes up to 8x so i can only get a RAM clock of 1600. I've seen people be able to use a 9.33x memory clock and i was wondering how/if I can do this or else i have to change my CPU Frequency to 250 to obtain a 2000MHz clock speed. If i can't get it to 2000 ill be happy with 1600 since i got it on sale at the same price as mushkin redline 1600 ram and can run the same timings with a lower voltage and still be stable.


*My friend ! Memory frequency over 1333MHZ will not give any performance increase unless you don't increase CPU-NB frequency as well(Integrated Memory Controller's speed). Memory speed depends on IMC/CPU-NB speed. You can assume CPU-NB speed is a path for memory speed on which memory can run. Memory bandwidth can never be equal to or greater than IMC bandwidth. According to CPU architecture Memory always runs at lower speed that IMC/CPU-NB speed. I want you to understand following calculations to be cleared.*

*Default IMC/CPU-NB speed is 2000MHz.
This means theoretically IMC bandwidth will be (2000 x 32) / 8 = 8000 MB/s for single channel
and for Dual Channel operation it will be 8000 x 2 = 16000 MB/s or 15.6GB/s

Now if our DRAM runs at 1333MHz dual channel,
the memory bandwidth will be (1333 x 64) / 8 = 10664 x 2 = 21328 MB/s or you can say memory bandwidth will be 20.8GB/s

This result tells us that even at default clocks memory speed is higher than CPU-NB speed. And I've stated already that DRAM speed can never be equal to or greater than CPU-NB/IMC speed.
This proves even 1333MHz is easily bottlenecked by CPU-NB running at 2000MHz, and according to the theory original memory bandwidth will be less than 15.6GB/s*

_Now consider you want to run your memory/DRAM at 2000MHz. Theoretically Memory bandwidth should be (2000 x 64) / 8 = 16000 x 2 = 32000 MB/s = 31.25GB/s
But this bandwidth will be bottlenecked to <15.6GB/s because obviously integrated memory controller speed is not more than 15.6GB/s because CPU-NB is runni9ng at 2000MHz._

*Lets say, To get optimum performance of 2000MHz DRAM, you will have to run IMC/CPU-NB at more than or equal to 4000MHz (you can calculate by yourself) which I believe that is not possible for any currently available AMD CPU at least. However you can get most of total memory bandwidth efficiency by increasing CPU-NB to 2800-3000MHz at least.*

*To get the best memory performance and more than significant performance increase, I suggest you to run DRAM frequency between 1500-1700MHz with tightest timing (CL5, CL6 or CL7) with increased CPU-NB at 2500-3000MHz. This is only what you can do the best for your Deneb CPU.*


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> *My friend ! Memory frequency over 1333MHZ will not give any performance increase unless you don't increase CPU-NB frequency as well(Integrated Memory Controller's speed). Memory speed depends on IMC/CPU-NB speed. You can assume CPU-NB speed is a path for memory speed on which memory can run. Memory bandwidth can never be equal to or greater than IMC bandwidth. According to CPU architecture Memory always runs at lower speed that IMC/CPU-NB speed. I want you to understand following calculations to be cleared.*
> *Default IMC/CPU-NB speed is 2000MHz.
> This means theoretically IMC bandwidth will be (2000 x 32) / 8 = 8000 MB/s for single channel
> and for Dual Channel operation it will be 8000 x 2 = 16000 MB/s or 15.6GB/s
> Now if our DRAM runs at 1333MHz dual channel,
> the memory bandwidth will be (1333 x 64) / 8 = 10664 x 2 = 21328 MB/s or you can say memory bandwidth will be 20.8GB/s
> This result tells us that even at default clocks memory speed is higher than CPU-NB speed. And I've stated already that DRAM speed can never be equal to or greater than CPU-NB/IMC speed.
> This proves even 1333MHz is easily bottlenecked by CPU-NB running at 2000MHz, and according to the theory original memory bandwidth will be less than 15.6GB/s*
> _Now consider you want to run your memory/DRAM at 2000MHz. Theoretically Memory bandwidth should be (2000 x 64) / 8 = 16000 x 2 = 32000 MB/s = 31.25GB/s
> But this bandwidth will be bottlenecked to <15.6GB/s because obviously integrated memory controller speed is not more than 15.6GB/s because CPU-NB is runni9ng at 2000MHz._
> *Lets say, To get optimum performance of 2000MHz DRAM, you will have to run IMC/CPU-NB at more than or equal to 4000MHz (you can calculate by yourself) which I believe that is not possible for any currently available AMD CPU at least. However you can get most of total memory bandwidth efficiency by increasing CPU-NB to 2800-3000MHz at least.*
> *To get the best memory performance and more than significant performance increase, I suggest you to run DRAM frequency between 1500-1700MHz with tightest timing (CL5, CL6 or CL7) with increased CPU-NB at 2500-3000MHz. This is only what you can do the best for your Deneb CPU.*


right...
Your deneb cpu does not support higher than 1600MHz memory, it can be done with a bulldozer, which will go up to 1866.
and the whole story above is nice to know, but unimportand because stock cpu-nb speed is 2200MHz, which is enough for 1866MHz memory. if you go over those specs, you're overclocking and thats not as simpel as changing your bios to the factory settings. and the sweet spot of the CPU-NB for best performance with good stability, is about 2400 to 2600 MHz.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> right...
> Your deneb cpu does not support higher than 1600MHz memory, it can be done with a bulldozer, which will go up to 1866.
> and the whole story above is nice to know, but unimportand because stock cpu-nb speed is 2200MHz, which is enough for 1866MHz memory. if you go over those specs, you're overclocking and thats not as simpel as changing your bios to the factory settings. and the sweet spot of the CPU-NB for best performance with good stability, is about 2400 to 2600 MHz.


Don't forget that Overclocking the CPU-NB can also improve stability on PII's. Denab's benefit more than Thuban's do but its a nifty trick when overclocking on a PII Denab chip. My 955 BE won't hold 4.0Ghz with a CPU-NB less than 2600. YMMV.


----------



## KyadCK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> *lots of stuff in pretty colors*


(For Deneb/Thuban)

Or you could do what AMD says and have your CPU-NB at 1.5x your ram speed, so 2400NB for 1600RAM, or in my case 2700NB for 1800RAM.

http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_Dragon_AM3_AM2_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf

Bottom of page 12, first paragraph under "CPU NorthBridge Performance Tuning".


----------



## vonss

I was on my BIOS and I accidentally press a key (not sure which one) and it pop'd this:



I reckon this is good news, IF I can restore that BIOS.
Now I have to figure out how to accomplish that...


----------



## Wild Wally

There used to be a "secret" advanced BIOS setting menu. Think it was accessed by CNTRL-F2 or something like that. You should be able to find it on this site.

WW


----------



## vonss

Tried that, all the F's plus the numbers, basically and all the keys on the keyboard to no avail.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyadCK*
> 
> (For Deneb/Thuban)
> Or you could do what AMD says and have your CPU-NB at 1.5x your ram speed, so 2400NB for 1600RAM, or in my case 2700NB for 1800RAM.
> http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_Dragon_AM3_AM2_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf
> Bottom of page 12, first paragraph under "CPU NorthBridge Performance Tuning".


Great find! +1 for you my friend!


----------



## vonss

Mail'ed back and forth with the utterly incompetent Gigabyte tech support and you can access the BIOS recovery by pressing ALT+F11 and flash your Backup BIOS with your main BIOS with ALT+F12.
However, when I tried to recover my BIOS from the backup chip, it said that is the same version, which is not.

It reads:

1. Remove fixture or change jumper
2. Press [Enter] to start the BIOS recovery....

BIOS is the same! Press any key to continue.

¿Can you say BS?


----------



## vonss

I downgraded to F6 then started to update to F7 and while it was doing it I reseted my PC, main BIOS corrupted and the back-up BIOS kicked in. Running Prime95 to see how it goes.

Edit: Same crap. I'm done rubbish and with Gigabyte's utterly, incompetent support that can't even read or write Spanish or English.

Now I'm just curious why it passes Small FFT's, In-place large FFT's testes on Prime95 but not the Blend.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Well, that didn't work, I still can't achive the same OC as before now. Since that "VRM MOS protection" I have to increase my CPU voltage from 1.375v to 1.400v to achive 3.8GHZ, which is the "Sweet spot" so to speak, if you can do it at 1.375v, that is.
> ¿Anyone knows of a way to force the MoBo to restore the back up bios settings? Thanks in advance.


Ok, I have read a few of your post's and noticed a few things that make me question your overclock. Stock voltage for the 965 BE is 1.40Vcore for starter's. What are the rest of your overclock settings?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I downgraded to F6 then started to update to F7 and while it was doing it I reseted my PC, main BIOS corrupted and the back-up BIOS kicked in. Running Prime95 to see how it goes.
> Edit: Same crap. I'm done rubbish and with Gigabyte's utterly, incompetent support that can't even read or write Spanish or English.
> Now I'm just curious why it passes Small FFT's, In-place large FFT's testes on Prime95 but not the Blend.


I read back a few page's but still have not found your original post about the issue. From what I have gathered, You updated BIOS to the latest version and then things went sour. Correct? I'm still reading your older post's though.

**EDIT**
I found your original issue, So you updated the BIOS from f6 to f7 and your OC became unstable all of the sudden. What did you do to test stability before the update? and what where your OC settings when you where running on F6 BIOS. It is possible your overclock was never stable to begin with. I can run my 955 at 3.8Ghz @1.40VCore and its stable for 5-6 hours of prime and minior gaming but the system will stall out/crash/freeze at random time's. @ 1.455Vcore My chip will push all the way to 4.0Ghz and is perfectly stable, after Vdroop (no LLC on my bard) I sit at 1.445vcore. Been that way for just about a year solid.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Ok, I have read a few of your post's and noticed a few things that make me question your overclock. Stock voltage for the 965 BE is 1.40Vcore for starter's. What are the rest of your overclock settings?
> I read back a few page's but still have not found your original post about the issue. From what I have gathered, You updated BIOS to the latest version and then things went sour. Correct? I'm still reading your older post's though.
> **EDIT**
> I found your original issue, So you updated the BIOS from f6 to f7 and your OC became unstable all of the sudden. What did you do to test stability before the update? and what where your OC settings when you where running on F6 BIOS. It is possible your overclock was never stable to begin with. I can run my 955 at 3.8Ghz @1.40VCore and its stable for 5-6 hours of prime and minior gaming but the system will stall out/crash/freeze at random time's. @ 1.455Vcore My chip will push all the way to 4.0Ghz and is perfectly stable, after Vdroop (no LLC on my bard) I sit at 1.445vcore. Been that way for just about a year solid.


First off, I can run my CPU @ 1.275v at stock 3.4GHz. This silly Motherboard automatically sets the VCORE to 1.475v.
Before and after the update I ALWAYS ran a 2 hour Prime95 Blend Torture Test, if it passed that then I gamed for the rest of the day and when I go to sleep, I left it overnight running Prime95 to see if it was truly stable. It was, I used it @ 3.8GHz 1.375V for two weeks. My LLC is set to High, setting Ultra-High makes no difference in vdroop, but setting Extreme gives instead of, for example 1.375v, is1.408v.

I know is no "big-deal" but is just havin' a piss at my expense really. There is no logic in this behavior.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> First off, I can run my CPU @ 1.275v at stock 3.4GHz. This silly Motherboard automatically sets the VCORE to 1.475v.
> Before and after the update I ALWAYS ran a 2 hour Prime95 Blend Torture Test, if it passed that then I gamed for the rest of the day and when I go to sleep, I left it overnight running Prime95 to see if it was truly stable. It was, I used it @ 3.8GHz 1.375V for two weeks. My LLC is set to High, setting Ultra-High makes no difference in vdroop, but setting Extreme gives instead of, for example 1.375v, is1.408v.
> I know is no "big-deal" but is just havin' a piss at my expense really. There is no logic in this behavior.


Just because you were able to pass prime95 for a few hours dose not mean you can call it stable. I have seen system's run prime95 for 24+ hours only to crash in BF3 due to a poor overclock. Same with Intel Burn test. Just because you run the program for X amount of time dose not mean its stable. The fact that your overclocking and under-volting should be a clue as to why you system is acting funny.

Also when you test prime95 you should run custom blend settings, making sure that you allocate maximum RAM to the blend test(take max amount of RAM and - what you need for basic IDLE OS usage). You want your overall ram usage to be between 90-95% of your max. That way if the system decided to load up a back ground program or what ever it won't crash. Leave this custom Blend running for 17 hours or more. It take's my i5 sig rig running at 4.7ghz almost 18 hours to run ALL the test's in prime. Your running a slower chip with much less OC, so it would take alot longer to run all test's in your system.
If your not using most all of your RAM during the test and your not letting it run every FFT your not fully testing stability. Even if you do run prime and ITB for endless amounts of time its no guarantee of stability. You could still crash why loading up word pad, or hang up when the PC goes to sleep.

After reading your post's I'm pretty sure your system was never stable to begin with. Did you up the CPU-NB any when doing overclocking? stock CPU-NB can cause instability in when overclocking.


----------



## vonss

I appreciate your inputs, but in my book if i was doing heavy gaming for around 12-16 hours per day for two weeks or more, I dare it was "stable". I was also running a few benchmarks at that time, like PcMark07, 3DMark Vantange, 3DMark 11, Cinebench and Unigie Heaven. During that time my system never had any issues whatsoever.
I never touched any other setting but the multiplier and the vcore.

I'll try your suggesting with prime.


----------



## Fordox

use linx. you'll see why this program is superior to prime95 if it comes to pure cpu and memory load.
only the drawback is that it's such a big load for your system, that you can't do anything else.

a one hour run with memory on all can declare your system stable. I've seen systems, which are 12 hours prime stable, crack onder the load of linx.
for ultimate stability, you just need to run it for 5 hours. a longer and more intensive load is unimaginable (unless you run it longer







).

if you don't believe me, just try it and see how high your cpu temperature rises and how full your memory will be filled with data. not achieveable with prime.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I appreciate your inputs, but in my book if i was doing heavy gaming for around 12-16 hours per day for two weeks or more, I dare it was "stable". I was also running a few benchmarks at that time, like PcMark07, 3DMark Vantange, 3DMark 11, Cinebench and Unigie Heaven. During that time my system never had any issues whatsoever.
> I never touched any other setting but the multiplier and the vcore.
> I'll try your suggesting with prime.


There are a few things that went wrong if all you did was bump the Vcore and multi lol. how much RAM where you using? how many of the 4 DIMM's where in use? I don't doubt that it was stable to a point, but again you could pass 50+ hours of prime, and 50+ hours of IBT and linpack and still crash starting up foxfire. Gaming for a few hours is hardly a stress test. Sorry but it just sounds funny that you where stable using less than minimum voltage, then you complain about a wonky board.

My 955 BE is "unstable" at [email protected] 1.55v, but I can play the snot out of BF3 on full ultra on it. its prone to random crash's. it will past a few hours of prime and alot of IBT but it ain't stable once or twice every 2 or 3 weeks it will stumble.

Up your voltage to somewhere in the 1.45v range for the CPU Vcore.
Up the CPU-NB voltage to somewhere in the 1.30v range
Bump the CPU-NB to 2400-2600Mhz
If using 8 gig's of RAM up the RAM voltage to 1.55v to 1.60v
If using more than two DIMM's up the RAM voltage to 1.60v

Test that for stability. If its unstable give it more Vcore (1.50v but no more than 1.55v) and up the CPU-NB to 1.35v and re test.

if it was stable, up the CPU-NB. Closer to 2600 is better, if you can get over that then your golden. You can also add more to the CPU-NB Vcore, I wouldn't go past 1.35(ish) range for 24/7 usage(some say don't go past 1.45v).

When overclocking an AMD I find its easier to start with maximum safe voltage on everything (CPU,RAM,CPU-NB) and set the clocks to a respectable number (like 3.8CPU and 2.6CPU-NB) if its stable I drop the RAM voltage down in small increments until it crash's or shows signs of instability. Once the lowest RAM voltage is found, move on to the Vcore, drop it down in small bit's until its unstable. then move to CPU-NB. Easiest way I have ever found to OC a phenom II and end up with an good overclock. Hope this helps you some.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> use linx. you'll see why this program is superior to prime95 if it comes to pure cpu and memory load.
> only the drawback is that it's such a big load for your system, that you can't do anything else.
> a one hour run with memory on all can declare your system stable. I've seen systems, which are 12 hours prime stable, crack onder the load of linx.
> for ultimate stability, you just need to run it for 5 hours. a longer and more intensive load is unimaginable (unless you run it longer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> if you don't believe me, just try it and see how high your cpu temperature rises and how full your memory will be filled with data. *not achieveable with prime*.


User error. Prime has to be told how to work. if you just click "blend" and then start, its a total POS. If you actually know how to use it its a powerful tool. I see no reason to trust linx over prime.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> User error. Prime has to be told how to work. if you just click "blend" and then start, its a total POS. If you actually know how to use it its a powerful tool. I see no reason to trust linx over prime.


I tried to fill up 24 gigs of memory on a pc, which was impossible with prime. and then again, linx is a other type of load which stresses the cpu a lot more to see instability a lot faster.
just try it a few times if you want to see if a system is stable. try a scenario in which you are certain that the system appears to be prime stable but isn't in real time. linx will filter those problems very fast.

i also used prime before and i was sceptical with linx, but I saw that linx was a lot faster in detecting instability.


----------



## rawsteel

Anybody here use Touch BIOS.? when i click on overclock then Advanced Voltage settings it sometimes shows different setting to what i have set in the BIOS, eg.. i have my CPU Voltage Control set to -0.050v in the bios but it sometimes reads +0.600v in touch BIOS and my CPU NB VID Control also reads +0.600v but i have not changed it in the bios


----------



## Wild Wally

Are you using cool and quiet or any of the other features which adjust those settings on the fly? If you see the same values in cpuid or another hardware reporter then this is what is happening.

WW


----------



## rawsteel

Would one worry about vdroop on these 1.0 rev boards without LLC when only doing light overclocking.? Planning on getting my Phenom II x4 955 BE to just 3.4 ghz So it is nothing major and i probably dont need to change the CPU VCORE or other related voltage settings


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel*
> 
> Would one worry about vdroop on these 1.0 rev boards without LLC when only doing light overclocking.? Planning on getting my Phenom II x4 955 BE to just 3.4 ghz So it is nothing major and i probably dont need to change the CPU VCORE or other related voltage settings


No, it won't matter much. you can overcome that, My board at 4.0Ghz and 1.45v Vdrops to 1.44v with no LLC


----------



## blue-cat

Hey guys, just about to take the plunge and buy a UD7 off amazon.co.uk and update my horridly old mobo.
I was hoping people who owned the board and have had good experiences with ram (that didn't cost a truckload) could help me out? I don't think I'll be overclocking the RAM any time soon and was thinking of getting some G.Skill 2x4GB 1600Mhz. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/G-Skill-Ripjaws-240-pin-PC3-12800-unbuffered/dp/B00339X1EM/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1339951195&sr=1-3

Or

http://www.amazon.co.uk/G-Skill-Channel-9-9-9-24-Extreme-Profile/dp/B0079NRZHC/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1339951195&sr=1-6

Suggestions welcome, reasoning even more so









As an aside, do the Intel ram sticks with Intel XMPs matter? I installed some Intel ram in my bros AMD triple core and he's had no problems for over 8 months.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Hey guys, just about to take the plunge and buy a UD7 off amazon.co.uk and update my horridly old mobo.
> I was hoping people who owned the board and have had good experiences with ram (that didn't cost a truckload) could help me out? I don't think I'll be overclocking the RAM any time soon and was thinking of getting some G.Skill 2x4GB 1600Mhz. Something like this:
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/G-Skill-Ripjaws-240-pin-PC3-12800-unbuffered/dp/B00339X1EM/ref=sr_1_3?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1339951195&sr=1-3
> 
> Or
> 
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/G-Skill-Channel-9-9-9-24-Extreme-Profile/dp/B0079NRZHC/ref=sr_1_6?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1339951195&sr=1-6
> 
> Suggestions welcome, reasoning even more so
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As an aside, do the Intel ram sticks with Intel XMPs matter? I installed some Intel ram in my bros AMD triple core and he's had no problems for over 8 months.


I have the gskil ripjaws on my UD3 for over a year already and no problem with them. They have the correct size to be below of my noctua D14.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

I have been two different G.Skill kits of RAM on my UD3 for over a year and never had a RAM problem that was PEBKAC(overclocking) related.
The main RAM set up I use is two of these G.Skill Eco kit's for a total of 8 gig's, Almost no overclocking headroom but is 100% stable at stock clocks and GPU oc'd.
The second kit of RAM I use with it is for overclocking. its G.Skill RipJaw's. Overclock's well on both my machines. In my experience you can't go wrong with anything from G.Skill, Some of their stuff won't overclock to save its life but its always stable. RipJaw's kits seem to OC better than their other kits.


----------



## kzone75

F8 BIOS out for UD3.. Modify ET6 Function.. In case someone cares.


----------



## Fordox

ET6 = Easy Tune 6?

I'd like to know what changed, but i don't think it's that important for overclocking.


----------



## Wild Wally

F9 is out for the UD7. Seems a minor change although this is the only one bigger than 1.14 MB. ET6 and memory adds.


----------



## Pretendica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> F8 BIOS out for UD3.. Modify ET6 Function.. In case someone cares.


I bought an fx-8150, I had a Phenom II 975, but I wanted to update my bios. So I was on f6g and I downloaded @bios, and F8. I had the @bios program on my sdd/ C: drive, but the F8 bios I dl'd was on my hdd/ e: drive. After I ran the program( I selected the file called ga-990fx f8) it would not post. It never came back on. My questions are, am I screwed, do I have to rma? Or will they even take it? Any help from you guys would be awesome.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I bought an fx-8150, I had a Phenom II 975, but I wanted to update my bios. So I was on f6g and I downloaded @bios, and F8. I had the @bios program on my sdd/ C: drive, but the F8 bios I dl'd was on my hdd/ e: drive. After I ran the program( I selected the file called ga-990fx f8) it would not post. It never came back on. My questions are, am I screwed, do I have to rma? Or will they even take it? Any help from you guys would be awesome.


did you reset the bios?

disconnect power remove cmos battery, wait 5 mins, replace battery plug back in. see if it posts.

if not

remove all but one memory stick/ video card/cpu. try again.


----------



## Lordred

Going to need to be pulled off the list, I no longer own my 990FXA-UD5 or my 1100T.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

This is a fitment question. I have a HAF 932 with a triple radiator inside the roof, & an Ultra ULT-HE1000X PSU inside on the floor. A Crosshair IV ATX MB just fits. Where is the UD7 larger? Is it the height of the board from floor to roof, is it wider from the IO panel to the HD cages, or is it both? Does anyone a picture of a water-cooled UD7 in a similar configuration?

Edit: Looks like the Gigabyte E-ATX MB on the right side is wider, from the IO panel to the HD cage area.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

It should fit. For reference the ASUS board you mentioned is 12.0 x 9.6 (inches) and the gigabyte UD7 is 12.0 x 10.35 (inches). The major size difference is the gigabyte board is slightly wider, moving the edge of the mobo closer to the "drive bay area". The radiator at the top of your case, and PSU at the bottom will make no difference, as both boards will stand 12 inches tall when installed into the case.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> It should fit. For reference the ASUS board you mentioned is 12.0 x 9.6 (inches) and the gigabyte UD7 is 12.0 x 10.35 (inches). The major size difference is the gigabyte board is slightly wider, moving the edge of the mobo closer to the "drive bay area". The radiator at the top of your case, and PSU at the bottom will make no difference, as both boards will stand 12 inches tall when installed into the case.


That's great news. There really isn't any room to work with top to bottom, but there is 2-3" of extra space on the side before the drive bays become an issue. Thank you for the reply. Now I can get started ordering parts.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpaceCowboy*
> 
> That's great news. There really isn't any room to work with top to bottom, but there is 2-3" of extra space on the side before the drive bays become an issue. Thank you for the reply. Now I can get started ordering parts.










Best of luck on your hardware update


----------



## sumitlian

New BIOS ver. *"F9"* for 990FXA UD5 has released !








Changelog says "Modify ET6 (Easy Tune) function" !

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#bios


----------



## samuel002

I built a PC recently and im having some problems with the FXA-UD3 board i'm getting BSOD at stock, default bios and with the latest drivers directly from gigabyte website. the bsod occurs while on decktop

System Spec
AMD phenom 965
FXA-UD3
XFX radeon 6850
WD Black
WD Green
OCZ 600W


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002*
> 
> I built a PC recently and im having some problems with the FXA-UD3 board i'm getting BSOD at stock, default bios and with the latest drivers directly from gigabyte website. the bsod occurs while on decktop
> System Spec
> AMD phenom 965
> FXA-UD3
> XFX radeon 6850
> WD Black
> WD Green
> OCZ 600W


Seems no problem with your system configuration.
Well, What does BSOD say ?
I mean there must be some type of error description (error code or message) in BSOD. If somehow you are able to get into Windows then search for error logs in "Event Viewer'.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002*
> 
> I built a PC recently and im having some problems with the FXA-UD3 board i'm getting BSOD at stock, default bios and with the latest drivers directly from gigabyte website. the bsod occurs while on decktop
> System Spec
> AMD phenom 965
> FXA-UD3
> XFX radeon 6850
> WD Black
> WD Green
> OCZ 600W


Try uplugging everything except your boot drive, video card and 1 stick of ram. You can also try to boot from CD/DVD or USB drive. Sounds like the system POSTS but crashes under the OS.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuel002*
> 
> I built a PC recently and im having some problems with the FXA-UD3 board i'm getting BSOD at stock, default bios and with the latest drivers directly from gigabyte website. the bsod occurs while on decktop
> System Spec
> AMD phenom 965
> FXA-UD3
> XFX radeon 6850
> WD Black
> WD Green
> OCZ 600W


Need more info or we are just stabbing in the dark. What is in the event viewer, and have you ran a bug check? did you run Memtest86?


----------



## samuel002

I didn't run memtest yet since i don't have the computer at my house. but i'll get it from him.


----------



## kzone75

I thought I'd share something from Gigabyte Nordic's fb page. "we will start to launch 3D BIOS for first AMD boards in August. All new boards which we will launch later will have the 3D BIOS from launch on. so please keep patient 2 month more."


----------



## Wild Wally

Thanks kzone75. By the way, who is the lovely lady in your avatar?

WW


----------



## kzone75

Her name is Raven Quinn.







Singer/Songwriter. Artist. Seeker of things that go bump in the night. Expert Insomniac. Geek Extraordinaire. http://www.ravenquinn.net/ Such a sweetheart.


----------



## Wild Wally

Ah...talented as well as lovely.







. Thanks for the link.







The best part of life is there is always something new around the corner


----------



## blue-cat

Hi, I just installed my 990fxa ud7 with my 965 BE. I assumed with a motherboard change I'd have to reinstall windows but perhaps the 3 changes rule applies. Anyway, I was able to boot my old windows install up and after a restart the video settings were back to normal but the internet was still coming up blank. The ethernet port on the back was lighting up green and orange but it wouldnt connect. I tried using updating the driver but obviously without the internet I can't (I can't seem to find the disc or the back plate that may have come with it either (seller may have not posted them!)) I'll have a look for drivers and transfer them with my ipod (no I don't have a USB stick







).

Just wondering if any of you had similar lack of internet problems and if it would help to delete some relevant temporary files. I'll also try rebooting the router and modem when I get home.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Hi, I just installed my 990fxa ud7 with my 965 BE. I assumed with a motherboard change I'd have to reinstall windows but perhaps the 3 changes rule applies. Anyway, I was able to boot my old windows install up and after a restart the video settings were back to normal but the internet was still coming up blank. The ethernet port on the back was lighting up green and orange but it wouldnt connect. I tried using updating the driver but obviously without the internet I can't (I can't seem to find the disc or the back plate that may have come with it either (seller may have not posted them!)) I'll have a look for drivers and transfer them with my ipod (no I don't have a USB stick
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> Just wondering if any of you had similar lack of internet problems and if it would help to delete some relevant temporary files. I'll also try rebooting the router and modem when I get home.


You will have to load the new lan driver. PM me if you need to have it sent to you.

WW


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> You will have to load the new lan driver. PM me if you need to have it sent to you.
> WW


Thanks Wild Wally I figured it would be something like that. Just loaded them on and installed, works a charm. Cant't wait to get cracking with this board and see what an improvement.


----------



## Lordred

It should be a good improvement over the K10N78, I had one of those, it was an allround good board, but nothing fantastic.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

I started building the system last night, GA-990FXA-UD7, & on starting the LCD reads "00", flashes to perhaps "88", then sounds like it's cycling start-up (sound of DVD burner). The flashing on the LCD is about a 2 second cycle. I couldn't find the meaning of either post code during a web search. I have the 24 pin, 8 pin, & ATX-P4 for the MB plugged in, along with the CPU signal wire, 1 video card with (2) 6 pin connectors, a stick of DDR3, a HD, & a FX-8150. The first thing I thought was BIOS update for the 8 core CPU. Any idea what the LCD POST codes mean?


----------



## Lordred

Some boards (I do not know if the Gigabyte 990FXA's are among them) will let you update the bios with no CPU present.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

The documentation is not great, but I think it can be done through the BIOS & through Windows. Unfortunately, none are available at this point. All of the BIOS listed on the website are executables, leading me to believe they must be updated in Windows.

I did unplug all of the harnesses from the modular PSU & reattached them all. No change.


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpaceCowboy*
> 
> I started building the system last night, GA-990FXA-UD7, & on starting the LCD reads "00", flashes to perhaps "88", then sounds like it's cycling start-up (sound of DVD burner). The flashing on the LCD is about a 2 second cycle. I couldn't find the meaning of either post code during a web search. I have the 24 pin, 8 pin, & ATX-P4 for the MB plugged in, along with the CPU signal wire, 1 video card with (2) 6 pin connectors, a stick of DDR3, a HD, & a FX-8150. The first thing I thought was BIOS update for the 8 core CPU. Any idea what the LCD POST codes mean?


This was in another thread on here. I would recheck the 4 pin to the board.

It's error code 8B that shows as 88, the board is trying to initialise the ISA and PCI ROM's according to the manual. According to this thread you have forgotten to put in the ATX_x4 connector. Which is conflicting with the components...


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *patricksiglin*
> 
> This was in another thread on here. I would recheck the 4 pin to the board.
> It's error code 8B that shows as 88, the board is trying to initialise the ISA and PCI ROM's according to the manual. According to this thread you have forgotten to put in the ATX_x4 connector. Which is conflicting with the components...


I did some more troubleshooting. The 8 pin ATX-12v, 24 pin ATX, & ATX4P SATA all have power cables attached to the MB & PSU. I unplugged & replugged, no change. I then pulled the MB & bench tested, no change. I then pulled the 1090T- X6 from this system & tried that, figuring it would bypass the issue of the wrong BIOS, but no change either. I still have that blinking "00" to "88" on the LCD. I'll try swapping PSU's later, just to eliminate that possibility.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Swapped the PSU for an identical one from the system I'm typing from now. The PSU appears to work even though it just changed cases. That rules out the PSU.

One thing I did notice is the CPU fan header is different on the Gigabyte MB versus the ASUS CHIV. The GB MB header is upside down. The tab is in a different place, either on top of the header, or on the bottom of the header depending on the MB. The blue signal wire is on the far right on the ASUS,call it pin #4, & on the GB it's on the #2 pin. Is the way the circuit is laid out just different?


----------



## Wild Wally

The MB fan outputs are all keyed and should only fit 1 way unless you are using something unusual.

WW


----------



## Wild Wally

They do not have to be updated in Windows. The BIOS is a self-extracting executable.

You will need to have a cpu in place. Unfortunately, the cpu must be recognized by the BIOS you already have. Suggest using a AM3 phenom II or recent Athlon/Sempron.

The only way around this is to install a BIOS flashed to the proper revision to recognize your cpu. ASUS offers this service for their boards but I don't know if Gigabyte does as well.

WW


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> The MB fan outputs are all keyed and should only fit 1 way unless you are using something unusual.
> WW


I figured that, but just wanted to make sure.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> They do not have to be updated in Windows. The BIOS is a self-extracting executable.
> You will need to have a cpu in place. Unfortunately, the cpu must be recognized by the BIOS you already have. Suggest using a AM3 phenom II or recent Athlon/Sempron.
> The only way around this is to install a BIOS flashed to the proper revision to recognize your cpu. ASUS offers this service for their boards but I don't know if Gigabyte does as well.
> WW


I tried a 1090T, it's supposed to work with the F2 BIOS. Could there still be an issue?

The next thing I will try is installing the PSU I pulled from the CHIV case. It's a known good PSU, but I'm pretty sure so was the one I pulled from the UD7 case.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

I just finished testing the MB with the other PSU. It is still doing the blinking "00" to "88" on the LCD.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Unfortunately, the cpu must be recognized by the BIOS you already have. Suggest using a AM3 phenom II or recent Athlon/Sempron.


The Phenom II X4 955 is the only CPU available locally. Would it work?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> The only way around this is to install a BIOS flashed to the proper revision to recognize your cpu. ASUS offers this service for their boards but I don't know if Gigabyte does as well.
> WW


That would be a possible option if it is indeed a BIOS compatibility issue.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpaceCowboy*
> 
> The Phenom II X4 955 is the only CPU available locally. Would it work?


i'd bet my money on it.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> i'd bet my money on it.


On it getting the MB in to the BIOS where the 1090T failed?


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpaceCowboy*
> 
> On it getting the MB in to the BIOS where the 1090T failed?


that the x4 should work to flash your bios.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> that the x4 should work to flash your bios.


Even though the x6 & x4 CPU's are supposed to be on equal footing when it comes to booting under the F2 BIOS or later?


----------



## blue-cat

Hello,
I'm happily running my UD7 so can I be added to the thread







By the time you read this my sys info will be updated.

The only thing left to do for now is set up my RAID array from my previous mobo. After leafing through the manual I found the relevant pages and have my 2x500Gb drives plugged into the right ports for the primary raid chip but....

I can't work out if it'll erase the drives contents as I'm fairly attached to my music/pictures/home video collection. Backing it all up would be alot of effort so I was hoping you guys would have an nswer from experience. Unfortunately I think I have written a small amount of information to one of the drives so they are no longer identical, will this be a problem? Sorry for being such a newb but the multiple RAID controllers on the board have me a little flummoxed.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

What board chipset was on the previous system? If it's an AMD chipset you may not have any issues. When you start crossing over from an AMD to an Intel chipset, or the reverse, is when it becomes more difficult. The easiest way to deal with it is to clone the array to a single hard drive if you still can, then clone the HD to the array. Sometimes you need to add the new chipset drivers to the single HD before cloning.


----------



## blue-cat

My previous board was an AMD Asrock K10N78H-SLI but I ran the RAID off a PCI add in card (compeltely forgot about this). With the extra ports there's no need for the card anymore. I'll ask to borrow my brother's harddrive to see if I can back it all up tomorrow just in case then.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

I tried an AM3 PH II 955 X4 BE CPU this morning. Another fail. It's looking more like the MB was dead out of the box.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpaceCowboy*
> 
> Even though the x6 & x4 CPU's are supposed to be on equal footing when it comes to booting under the F2 BIOS or later?


yes it is equal footing, but not every motherboard supports 6-cores or other high tdp cpu's from the start.


----------



## Lordred

The UD7 had support for every AM3 cpu at launch, as did the UD5 and 3.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

The UD7 I currently have doesn't support any CPU's, x4, x6, or x8. :-(


----------



## Wild Wally

What version does the MB display at post? I have an early UD7 and it supported my phenom II AM3 right out of the box.

Do you have any add-on cards? I had trouble with my SATA and IDE add-on cards until I got to a higher BIOS rev as there was not enough space to load all of their ROMs.

WW


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> What version does the MB display at post? I have an early UD7 and it supported my phenom II AM3 right out of the box.


No POST at all, so don't know.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Do you have any add-on cards? I had trouble with my SATA and IDE add-on cards until I got to a higher BIOS rev as there was not enough space to load all of their ROMs.


I went with a basic set up just to get it started. No RAID array, no PCI-E HD's, nothing out of the ordinary.


----------



## Wild Wally

Sounds like you have a problem with the MB. If you've already gone through the drill of swapping RAM, CPU, PSU and Video Card then there really is nothing else you can do.

Have you also removed all unnecessary USB devices? Have you tried booting with a PS2 keyboard? I had a problem recently were my rig would not complete POST due to a bad USB connection. You can also try using USB ports without the "power boost".

WW


----------



## munnis

What you guys think about gigabyte fanboys party?

Are these psu voltages normal?
http://img6.imagebanana.com/img/oj9zjkgt/2012070421.24.54.jpg


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Sounds like you have a problem with the MB. If you've already gone through the drill of swapping RAM, CPU, PSU and Video Card then there really is nothing else you can do.


That's pretty much what I was thinking. I'm very fortunate to have known good duplicates of everything to trouble shoot with. It would be a lot of unknowns if I didn't.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Have you also removed all unnecessary USB devices? Have you tried booting with a PS2 keyboard? I had a problem recently were my rig would not complete POST due to a bad USB connection. You can also try using USB ports without the "power boost".


No internal connectors being used on the MB. USB keyboard & mouse connected to the USB I/O ports, because I don't have a PS/2 KB or mouse anymore. Can you still buy PS/2 stuff?


----------



## blue-cat

Hey guys,
How would you go about installing a raid 1 array for storage with the SB950 raid controller to an existing windows installation that was installed in IDE mode?

It just seems unlikely/annoying that you lose the IDE function of 4 drives using the SB950.

I ended up using the 88SE9172 controller but it's a little annoying (mainly because the cables aren't grouped chronologically but meh - at least it works







).

and f.y.i. it erased the disks so backing up was a good shout. +rep


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Hey guys,
> How would you go about installing a raid 1 array for storage with the SB950 raid controller to an existing windows installation that was installed in IDE mode?


After making a clone of the OS to a single HD, plug in the array & go to the RAID BIOS (Ctrl + F?). Set up the array in the RAID BIOS, & then clone from the single HD to the array. I kind of simplified the description because there are several steps involved in the RAID BIOS set-up, & there's also turning on the array in the main BIOS.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpaceCowboy*
> 
> That's pretty much what I was thinking. I'm very fortunate to have known good duplicates of everything to trouble shoot with. It would be a lot of unknowns if I didn't.
> No internal connectors being used on the MB. USB keyboard & mouse connected to the USB I/O ports, because I don't have a PS/2 KB or mouse anymore. Can you still buy PS/2 stuff?


Yes, but the best place is yard sales or the electronics recycling bin. You can buy adapters though I'm not sure how well they work any more. I have a few USB to PS2 adapters but they don't seem to work that well with the smart keyboards and more sophisticated mice.


----------



## munnis

i love yard sales


----------



## SpaceCowboy

I shipped the MB back to NewEgg today via RMA & UPS. Hopefully the replacement is a fully functioning MB.


----------



## munnis

when we get uefi bios?


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> when we get uefi bios?


read a few pages back, and you'll find this:
Quote:


> I thought I'd share something from Gigabyte Nordic's fb page. "we will start to launch 3D BIOS for first AMD boards in August. All new boards which we will launch later will have the 3D BIOS from launch on. so please keep patient 2 month more."


----------



## naughtynazgul

EDIT: Whoops wrong thread! Sorry!

xD


----------



## munnis

wrong thread man, its FXA not for XA boards


----------



## munnis

is it safe use x6 idle 1.6v? because i have vdroop and with load have voltages lower


----------



## munnis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> read a few pages back, and you'll find this:


Looks like this?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCfRWrCj3lc


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpaceCowboy*
> 
> Can you still buy PS/2 stuff?


Yeah, alot of high end mechanical keyboards use ps2 even if they do use a usb adapter on the end.


----------



## munnis

My father still use ps2 keyboard and mehanical ps2 mouse (that with ball)


----------



## MadGoat

LOL

CpuZ is reading something wrong... 1.6 reads right, 1.61 does this^^

Im @ 4.06ghz, 3gh NB & HT

I think its reading the bus speed wrong...


----------



## munnis

looks like cherry picked phenom x6 and only need 1,424v for 4,3ghz


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> looks like cherry picked phenom x6 and only need 1,424v for 4,3ghz


Right?!

I actually almost spat on my screen when I first pulled it up... lol... If only...


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> read a few pages back, and you'll find this:


Got some clarification on that from Gigabyte. This is only for the newer chipsets and will not be offered for the 990FXA. Assume this will be for piledriver?

WW


----------



## munnis

is ok to use 1.6v idle? wiht load i have vdroop.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Yeah, alot of high end mechanical keyboards use ps2 even if they do use a usb adapter on the end.


PS2 is faster than usb, because it doesn't have so many layers and protocols above it before processing.
so PS2 is better for your latency's. but if you'll ever feel the difference...


----------



## munnis

is ps2 keyboards expensive than usb3.0?


----------



## munnis

Is SB0670 SOUND BLASTER better card than 990fxa intergrated sound?


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> is ps2 keyboards expensive than usb3.0?


there are allmost none usb 3.0 keyboards.
a extra soundcard is not needed, the audio quality on gigabyte boards is allready very good if you compare them to the competition like ASUS.

and there exists something like an edit button to ask your questions in 1 post


----------



## munnis

i have SB0670, i wanna know is that better to use with these boards?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> i have SB0670, i wanna know is that better to use with these boards?


Only if you replace the original opamp with a LME49720 or AD825 chips. If not... just leave it alone.


----------



## MadGoat

Im lol'ing...

MUNNIS:

Your question is subjective. Most of us 990FXA owners have found the onboard audio to be impressive in quality... Mostly compared to OTHER onboard audio we've all had in the past.

Now that's not to say Your X-FI is not better, nor worse than the onboard... But that your ears are not mine.

Meaning: Try it out, and compare it for yourself... your the only one that will be able to tell what sounds good to you.

MG out....


----------



## munnis

i know that my onboard sound is 108db but my soundcard is 118db, that means my soundcard does better bass? I like very much DNB and rap songs with alot of bass.


----------



## MadGoat

That rating is the SnR rating in db...

Yes higher db ratings are "Technically" better...

Once again, I'll say it for the last time... Test it for yourself. Don't take someone's word for something that you will have a personal opinion about. Its your personal preference... No one else.

The question you are asking is as if I where to ask you:

"Do *I* like the color Green?"


----------



## munnis

i have tried both cards but i cant hear difference, anyone know good settings for drivers or guide for better sound?

Is that true? integrade board sound use cpu power and with dedicated sound card is in games better fps?


----------



## MadGoat

In the case that you cant tell a difference in sound quality:

I would suggest that you gain the addition benefits of using your XFI card then. It is true that the add in sound card can relieve some sound processing from the CPU.

Since you already own the equipment and don't have a sound preference, why not use it in this case?

Search around in the audio forums here, there are PLENTY of audiophiles that can offer much more "tweaking" assistance.







(drivers, settings, and as GaToMaLaCo offered... even sound card modification.)

Also remember the sound source is only as good as its producer / speaker.

Hit up the Audio section, you will be surprised at the wealth of information the members of this forum can provide


----------



## munnis

Thank you for help, i rep you


----------



## munnis

is 990fxa board intergrated sound better than asus crosshair seriest x-fi ingergrated sound?


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> is it safe use x6 idle 1.6v? because i have vdroop and with load have voltages lower


You better use something better than air cooling!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Yeah, alot of high end mechanical keyboards use ps2 even if they do use a usb adapter on the end.


I haven't had any issues with the last couple of motherboards I've owned detecting USB keyboards at boot. Prior to that I would need one initially to get in to the BIOS.


----------



## munnis

i use wireless usb logitech keyboard and i dont have problem to go bios and do things.

I use watercooling


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> is 990fxa board intergrated sound better than asus crosshair seriest x-fi ingergrated sound?


crosshair's fx2 is actually realtek 889 chip which supports some of Creative's feature like EAX 5, THX, etc. Both gigabyte and asus have 108db snr. The only main difference between Gigabyte and Asus boards is gigabyte officially support Dolby Home Theatre algorithm including Dolby Digital Plus, Dolby Digital Live, etc.


----------



## munnis

what is keyboard combinatsion for cmos?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> what is keyboard combinatsion for cmos?


Any normal non wireless USB/USB 2.0 or PS/2 Keyboard will work fine in the BIOS. I have actually never used a wireless keyboard.

As for sound cards vs on board audio: The on board audio for the GA-990FXA's are pretty decent. There are however things you can do to improve the sound quality depending on what you use your PC for. I will warn you. Unless you have a nice speaker system or a great set of headphone's(not cheap crap, but good quality nice stuff) then a real sound card (like Titanium X-Fi or similar) will have a "night and day" difference.

What sound equipment are you using (speakers, sub and headphones)? It might have worked out that your sound card is better than onboard audio but your current speaker's/head phone's are too low quality to let that difference shine though.

1.65v is bad on a Phenom II. Even with water cooling. 1.55v is the dangerous point. Don't know much about BullDozer Vcore.


----------



## munnis

nonono im wanna know keyboard combinatsion on keyboard what doing cmos, people says that with gigabyte board you can do cmos with keyboard.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> nonono im wanna know keyboard combinatsion on keyboard what doing cmos, people says that with gigabyte board you can do cmos with keyboard.


This made my eye twitch...

Sorry, but I'm having a hard time making sense of this post...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> nonono im wanna know keyboard combinatsion on keyboard what doing cmos, people says that with gigabyte board you can do cmos with keyboard.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> This made my eye twitch...
> Sorry, but I'm having a hard time making sense of this post...


I think he is trying to say that there is a "keyboard short cut" to clear the CMOS on gigabyte motherboards and he would like us to inform him of said short cut. I however have never heard of resetting the CMOS via keyboard short cut. Some motherboards have a Clear CMOS button located on the mother board though.


----------



## MadGoat

ohhh,

well we have a clear cmos Jumper?!

I haven't ever needed to use it however. The Dual bios has always worked well for me...


----------



## munnis

have ud5 or ud7 digi +vram like asus corsshair iv or sabertooth?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> have ud5 or ud7 digi +vram like asus corsshair iv or sabertooth?


Pretty sure ASUS is the only one with Digi +Vram.None of the GA-990FXA-UD3/5/7 are digi though.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> ohhh,
> well we have a clear cmos Jumper?!
> I haven't ever needed to use it however. The Dual bios has always worked well for me...


Yea. We have a CMOS jumper lol.

EDIT: dang, now Munnis has me 2x posting..


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> have ud5 or ud7 digi +vram like asus corsshair iv or sabertooth?


Asus provides some sort of VRM control via software withing OS. This is why they name it Digi+ otherwise there is no difference between Digi+ VRM and any other VRM that supports Pulse Width Modulation.
VRMs in asus boards have discrete Driver chip for MOSFET while Gigabyte's 990FXA series's VRMs have integrated driver IC built in one VRM for better VRM efficiency, lower latency, better response time. Also Voltage drop is less to do with VRMs quality, it depend mainly on the power circuitry design.


----------



## rakesh27

On a different subject.

i recently had 4 esata drives connected to my PC via 2 pci-e esata/sata cards. I changed this to MediaSonic Probox encloseurs which house 4 sata hdd via esata, im using a ud7 and i want to use the esata port on the back of the mobo.

I emaled support and asked is the esata port on the back have port multipler technology so i could see all 4 drives, they said it will if you enable it achi mode in the bios, i tried this connected it all up via esata but could only see one drive out of 4.

Does anyone know if the esata ports on the ud7 support port multipler ? onlu thing i havent done is installed the marvell achi drivers from the gigabyte website, any advice would greatly appreciated.....

Mu goal is to remove 1 pci-e esata/sata card so i could juggle around my interface cards and put my graphics card to the top slot of my mobo....


----------



## Fordox

@munnis
about your sound questions, i found a test on a dutch hardware site:
http://nl.hardware.info/reviews/2437/12/8-amd-990fx--990x-moederborden-review-geluidskwaliteit

maybe it can help you compare on-board audio


----------



## Mateush

I'm new here and quite new to overclocking, but have a bit of understanding from guides I have been following.

I'm having problem to let my FX-8120 go higher than 4,14 ghz at 1,45 vcore volt. It seems as there are a lot of people running higher with lower voltage usage, so I'm afraid if I have done anything wrong or my mainboard is the reason. Heard about a few having similar problems with same mainboard.

*CPU-Z*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*HWMonitor*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*CoreTemp*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















*BIOS settings:*

*CPU clock:* x18 [4140 mhz]
*Turbo:* disabled
*NB:* x10 [2300 mhz]
*CPU Host:* 230
*HT Link:* x11 (2530 mhz)
*Memory:* 8GB dual channel 9-10-9-27: running x8 (1840 mhz)

All voltages at default expect vcore 1,45v

*Hardwares:*
- Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev 1.0) updated to lastest bios
- AMD FX-8120 (4,14ghz)
- 8GB Corsair Vengeance 1866 mhz
- NZXT HALE 90 850W 80+ gold

I really need to bump my FX-8120 a bit more to run a few apps perfectely such as pcsx2 emulator which can be insanely cpu consuming. Unfortunately FX-8120 is not that good at these stuff.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## munnis

i heard ud7 northbridge is very hot, has anybody use that? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html


----------



## Fordox

@mateush
you have serious voltage drop, just like all of us.
try to find LLC en set it a notch higher. If you don't have LLC, then raise your voltage. under load it will drop and it will be save to work with.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> i heard ud7 northbridge is very hot, has anybody use that? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html


All 990FXA-UDX are a little hot. According to Gigabyte they tested the 990FXA's to 85c with out failure.To some people the temps the board reach's make's them uncomfortable/uneasy however I have yet to see it cause an actual problem.

There is no actual need to Water Cool the board, even when overclocking pretty high. Its 85f(29.4c) In my computer room and I have my 990FXA system pushing 4.2Ghz(955BE) and the NB temps only reach lower 50's. However if your going to do a water loop there is nothing wrong with adding the mobo to the water loop, I would personally avoid EK products after seeing how they treat customer's, Their nickle plating will flake off and they commonly will refuse RMA's blaming customer's. I would look for another mobo block myself.


----------



## munnis

you know something else company who made these waterblocks for ud7? or is it better put some small silents fan on it or just leav it alone and not cool that heatsink?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> you know something else company who made these waterblocks for ud7? or is it better put some small silents fan on it or just leav it alone and not cool that heatsink?


I did some looking around, seems that the only water block I could find made for this board is the EK blocks. Maybe another member can report if there is a universal block that fits? Personally unless your temps are 65c+ I would put a small fan over it before going with an EK product. If you do end up going EK stay away from anything Nickle Plated. You can google EK nickle plating issue to see what I mean.

There is also a few other trick's you can use to lower the temps if they are to high for your liking.

1. Turn of the PC and use your finger's/thumb's to apply moderate pressure to the heat sink in question. This of this as an un-official re-seat of the heat sink.

2. Remove the paste they used during manufacturing for better(anything but AS5, I have ICD7 on all my stuff)

3. Modified washer trick. Not exactly sure this is possible but it should be, done it on other boards before. Use Nylon plumbing washer's on the under side of the motherboard to raise the pressure of the heat sink. Even though the nylon washer's are non conductive it would be best to get a small enough washer to not touch any pin's or anything on the back of the board.


----------



## rakesh27

Has anyone got a clue of the esata/usb ports on the i/o support port multipler if so how to get them working ?

Much appreciated.....


----------



## Fordox

install all the drivers?


----------



## munnis

nvm


----------



## Kenji9

Hey everyone.. I just recently got a machine going with a GA990-fxa-UD7 board. It has Corsair Vengeance 16 GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600MHz PC3 240 Pin DIMM Memory CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10

As far as I can tell it should be compatible. I thought, I'd get this because if I really need more... (which most likely not) I could just upgrade later by getting the same thing.

Trouble is.... my system is not using all the ram... in fact when I go to the control panel\ system and security\ system.... where it gives the processor and ram info.. it say's " Installed Memory (RAM): 16.00gb (256mb usable)" to say the least.... I was kind of disappointed..







Something is obviously wrong.....

There is no memory remapping feature in the bios is there? I couldn't find it.. and either way... that's way too little being used for how much I have.
I'm beginning to think the ram is just defective..

Right now the system runs okay because the os is on an pcie ssd but as soon as i do any thing that involves the hdd which is where all the storage is... it's mad slow...
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated...


----------



## munnis

you have latest version bios? Latest is F9


----------



## Wild Wally

Have you tried just one stick at a time? How about moving the sticks to a different set of slots. You have to have both sticks in the same bank to use dual channel.

WW


----------



## DrProctor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> However if your going to do a water loop there is nothing wrong with adding the mobo to the water loop, I would personally avoid EK products after seeing how they treat customer's, Their nickle plating will flake off and they commonly will refuse RMA's blaming customer's. I would look for another mobo block myself.


Basically you should be able to use any waterblock on the NB that fits on 790/890/990NB.
The UD7 mosfets have a different design than the older boards, there is no EK Block that fits.

If you don't care for the price tag you could contact Anfi Tec, they'll make you anything for your mainboard,
they already have countless blocks in their database so they might already offer something that fits.

I've already had the EK "Gigabyte AMD Set" which is a Mosfet, a NB and a SB Block and luckily they fit on the UD3 too except for the SB Block which is more "style" than cooling.
But you are right, since EKs recent actions and reactions show no respect for their customers i avoid their products, their new design looks horrible anway









My NB temps dropped around 30K when comparing the ITF Sensor temps.
Whatever that sensor really reads^^

btw is CPU Z 1.61 reading wrong? it reports crazy refclock speeds, different after every reboot.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kenji9*
> 
> Hey everyone.. I just recently got a machine going with a GA990-fxa-UD7 board. It has Corsair Vengeance 16 GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600MHz PC3 240 Pin DIMM Memory CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10
> As far as I can tell it should be compatible. I thought, I'd get this because if I really need more... (which most likely not) I could just upgrade later by getting the same thing.
> Trouble is.... my system is not using all the ram... in fact when I go to the control panel\ system and security\ system.... where it gives the processor and ram info.. it say's " Installed Memory (RAM): 16.00gb (256mb usable)" to say the least.... I was kind of disappointed..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something is obviously wrong.....
> There is no memory remapping feature in the bios is there? I couldn't find it.. and either way... that's way too little being used for how much I have.
> I'm beginning to think the ram is just defective..
> Right now the system runs okay because the os is on an pcie ssd but as soon as i do any thing that involves the hdd which is where all the storage is... it's mad slow...
> Any help on this would be greatly appreciated...


Are you using Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit ?
Did you update your BIOS to the latest one ?
What Video Card are you using ?
Have you overclocked your system ? if yes then tell us about whole settings of your BIOS !


----------



## munnis

people please post message in here when new bios is out. thank you


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

I am getting a "restoring bios to previous version" loop.

Does anyone want to help?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1281968/bios-backup-loop#post_17713803


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RULINGCHAOS*
> 
> I am getting a "restoring bios to previous version" loop.
> 
> Does anyone want to help?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1281968/bios-backup-loop#post_17713803


Unplug and take battery out for a couple of mins. I had this happen to me before.


----------



## munnis

you have updated your bios, but backup bios is older vcersion and now its write backup bios over with newer bios. Those boards have dual bios system.


----------



## TPE-331

I am wondering if it is still worth to buy a ud7 or wait for something new to come out. I have a pII 965 just sitting around, would this chip pair up well with the ud7 or would it be better to get an fx8150 and pair it up with the ud7?


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> I am wondering if it is still worth to buy a ud7 or wait for something new to come out. I have a pII 965 just sitting around, would this chip pair up well with the ud7 or would it be better to get an fx8150 and pair it up with the ud7?


I'm currently running a 965 BE with my UD7. Its a very good board with a ton of good features and nice and fast and it should hold up well for a good while. You can probably get about $85-95 for the 965 and get an fx 8150 for $150 but I'd wait a little while til the prices drop a little more.


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> I'm currently running a 965 BE with my UD7. Its a very good board with a ton of good features and nice and fast and it should hold up well for a good while. You can probably get about $85-95 for the 965 and get an fx 8150 for $150 but I'd wait a little while til the prices drop a little more.


Thank you for the reply.







I think I will go ahead and buy the UD7 and use it with my 965BE. I will most likely run a GTX 570 4-way SLI setup but, I am wondering if the 965BE will bottleneck them. SuperBiiz has the UD7 for $238, I can get it for $228 with my $10 off coupon. They had a UD7/8150 combo last week for $370, I should of grabbed that deal when I seen it. Thanks again.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TPE-331*
> 
> Thank you for the reply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I will go ahead and buy the UD7 and use it with my 965BE. I will most likely run a GTX 570 4-way SLI setup but, I am wondering if the 965BE will bottleneck them. SuperBiiz has the UD7 for $238, I can get it for $228 with my $10 off coupon. They had a UD7/8150 combo last week for $370, I should of grabbed that deal when I seen it. Thanks again.


Get it confirmed that you are choosing the latest revision of UD7 before buying. Old revision boards of UD7/UD5/UD3 do not have Load Line Calibration feature (LLC). Everyone who bought old revision of that boards are having huge voltage drop issue at load in overclocking, also this makes CPU to get hot at idle. But no problem







This issue has been fixed in new revision. It will be a great buy.

Quad 570 SLI is of no use, because you can't get four high end GPUs to work at optimum speed unless you are playing games on 3 monitors x 1080p (5760 x 1080) @ 120hz at least. And for most games even this resolution will not be sufficient to get four 570s utilized at maximum. Anything lower than this resolution and refresh rate will not worth the cost of quad 570. If you want SLI then I recommend you to use tri SLI. Dual SLI/xfire are often prone to 'Micro stuttering' in gaming. This feels very annoying because you get minimum to maximum frames in a loaded map every some seconds resulting worst gameplay. I've seen a review related to multi GPU performance in Tomshardware. They have proved that Tri SLI/Xfire almost solves the 'Micro Stuttering' issue and you get smooth gameplay. Also the scaling of three GPUs is much higher than quad GPU.

or you can choose from new GPU line over old GTX 570....... like 670 SLI, 680 SLI, or 7850 xfire, 7870 xfire, 7950 xfire.

Running 960BE to 4.2GHz might be a solution to quad GPU scaling, but there will be some bottleneck because of low CPU memory bandwidth and other higher latencies. However as soon as you are getting smooth frame rate, you must forget about bottleneck. Well... An overclocked FX 8120/8150 are the best AMD cpu available to get the multi gpu maximum utilized.


----------



## rawsteel

I went to fire up ET6 the other day but noticed it was not loading.. so I uninstalled it then went to the gigabyte site for my motherboard (GA-990FXA UD5 ) to download a new copy which was ET6 B12.0424.1. Now, when i try to install easy tunes 6, i get this:" Error 1904. Module C:\Program Files (x86)\ET6\Flash11e.ocx failed to register. HRESULT -2147220473. Contact your support personnel" BIOS version is F9


----------



## TPE-331

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> Get it confirmed that you are choosing the latest revision of UD7 before buying. Old revision boards of UD7/UD5/UD3 do not have Load Line Calibration feature (LLC). Everyone who bought old revision of that boards are having huge voltage drop issue at load in overclocking, also this makes CPU to get hot at idle. But no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This issue has been fixed in new revision. It will be a great buy.
> Quad 570 SLI is of no use, because you can't get four high end GPUs to work at optimum speed unless you are playing games on 3 monitors x 1080p (5760 x 1080) @ 120hz at least. And for most games even this resolution will not be sufficient to get four 570s utilized at maximum. Anything lower than this resolution and refresh rate will not worth the cost of quad 570. If you want SLI then I recommend you to use tri SLI. Dual SLI/xfire are often prone to 'Micro stuttering' in gaming. This feels very annoying because you get minimum to maximum frames in a loaded map every some seconds resulting worst gameplay. I've seen a review related to multi GPU performance in Tomshardware. They have proved that Tri SLI/Xfire almost solves the 'Micro Stuttering' issue and you get smooth gameplay. Also the scaling of three GPUs is much higher than quad GPU.
> or you can choose from new GPU line over old GTX 570....... like 670 SLI, 680 SLI, or 7850 xfire, 7870 xfire, 7950 xfire.
> Running 960BE to 4.2GHz might be a solution to quad GPU scaling, but there will be some bottleneck because of low CPU memory bandwidth and other higher latencies. However as soon as you are getting smooth frame rate, you must forget about bottleneck. Well... An overclocked FX 8120/8150 are the best AMD cpu available to get the multi gpu maximum utilized.


Thanks man, +rep to ya.







Thanks for the heads up on the revision. I'm going to do a little more research and make my decision over the weekend. Have a good one!


----------



## kzone75

A quick visit before moving on. F9a for UD3 rev1.0

kthxbai


----------



## phillyd

for the sake of looks, I'm trading my 990FX Sabertooth with a friend for his 990FXA-UD3. He'll get a higher-end board that I can help him out with overclocking with more, and I'll get an attractive board that will please the customer







check out my water phantom build. I should be updating with pics of the board by next wednesday. build logs in the sig.


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> i heard ud7 northbridge is very hot, has anybody use that? http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html


I have the black version of that block for the UD7, still to be fitted. I also have been running an Asus Crosshair IV full board block for almost 2 years. I don't have any issue with the quality at all. The other manufacturers blocks look pretty amateurish in comparison.


----------



## munnis

i have static sound with integrated alc889, what is solution? installed latest drivers from gigabyte homepage.


----------



## Fordox

@munnis
tried another audio output, like another headphone?


----------



## Wild Wally

F10a is posted for the UD7. Minor changes according to the notes.

WW


----------



## munnis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> @munnis
> tried another audio output, like another headphone?


i have 5.1 headphones what i use


----------



## Fordox

try another one, it may be that the interference comes from your headphone or the cable from your headphone.


----------



## terminx

F10b for the UD5 is out. Haven't tried it yet.


----------



## bcudasteve

link for UD5 bios update

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#bios


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Bench tested with 955 x4, running. Installed in the case, running. Changed CPU to FX-8150, running. Installed 2nd stick of RAM, running. Installed EK waterblocks, running. Installed HD5850 & RevoDrive3, running. Installed 2nd HD5850, not running. It keeps getting to the loading OS, then reboots. Pull the 2nd VC & all is well. Is there a BIOS setting that I am missing or don't understand?


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Figured it out. Went in to the BIOS. found "Init Display First", & changed it from the default value to "PEG" which is the 1st x16 slot & where the primary VC resides. I am now Crossfired.


----------



## munnis

how to kill static sound in windows? when it boots to windows then static sound starts, and in safe mode it have too


----------



## munnis

new F10b ud7 is out


----------



## vonss

If you press CTR+F1 while in the BIOS you get another menu called "Advanced chipset menu" which has an option called "GPP core CFG", ¿anyone knows what is it for?


----------



## Demonkev666




----------



## Demonkev666

I broke the thread D:


----------



## waltcujo

So what does everyone think about the UD5? is it as bad as the reviews say on newegg? should I take the chance of buying it or choose something else? are any owners here having the board die only after a few months,or having the bios get stuck in a boot loop or been denied an rma I heard that gigabyte did not even put serial numbers on the board and are denieing people there warranties these boards are so bad


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waltcujo*
> 
> So what does everyone think about the UD5? is it as bad as the reviews say on newegg? should I take the chance of buying it or choose something else? are any owners here having the board die only after a few months,or having the bios get stuck in a boot loop or been denied an rma I heard that gigabyte did not even put serial numbers on the board and are denieing people there warranties these boards are so bad


waltcujo,

I have had a 990FXA-UD5 rev 1 (no LLC) motherboard since last summer, only had some short term problems with the BIOS available then, has been running good since last November, only a bit of an issue with that version's voltage droop on processor, since worked around OK. Figured out how to run it nicely due to reading this forum from the 1st page. The tips & advice from the excellent experienced overclockers here is most helpful.
I think I would have bought the 990FXA-UD3 motherboard if I had read this forum first, though.
Also, I have had very good experience for many years with quality control from Gigabyte's motherboards, this one is my 4th one I have owned.

have a great day,
bcudateve


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waltcujo*
> 
> So what does everyone think about the UD5? is it as bad as the reviews say on newegg? should I take the chance of buying it or choose something else? are any owners here having the board die only after a few months,or having the bios get stuck in a boot loop or been denied an rma I heard that gigabyte did not even put serial numbers on the board and are denieing people there warranties these boards are so bad


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> waltcujo,
> I have had a 990FXA-UD5 rev 1 (no LLC) motherboard since last summer, only had some short term problems with the BIOS available then, has been running good since last November, only a bit of an issue with that version's voltage droop on processor, since worked around OK. Figured out how to run it nicely due to reading this forum from the 1st page. The tips & advice from the excellent experienced overclockers here is most helpful.
> I think I would have bought the 990FXA-UD3 motherboard if I had read this forum first, though.
> Also, I have had very good experience for many years with quality control from Gigabyte's motherboards, this one is my 4th one I have owned.
> have a great day,
> bcudateve


The only problem I ever really heard about the UD5's was the Vdroop/boost but as noted LLC new boards have LLC so its a moot issue.

I would look at this page. Unless your specific needs require somthing the UD5 has the UD3 is cheaper and a very stable board.


----------



## sumitlian

I have UD5, even it doesn't have LLC, My board is able to make my X6 perfectly stable at 4.1Ghz at 1.456v on Load. Yes I have to put 1.525v in BIOS and there is 0.069v but it doesn't make me feel bad because I let the CnQ remain enabled. Not a single issue with thisboard till yet.


----------



## lutsar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> I have UD5, even it doesn't have LLC, My board is able to make my X6 perfectly stable at 4.1Ghz at 1.456v on Load. Yes I have to put 1.525v in BIOS and there is 0.069v but it doesn't make me feel bad because I let the CnQ remain enabled. Not a single issue with thisboard till yet.


How you get ram stable? if i use high fsb then i cant get stable memory, but with lower fsb and same timing and mhz is memory stable. What voltage i must increase?


----------



## Lazlonius

Edit : wrong thread sorry

I was about to buy the UDH5 for a build I am planning this weekend, then they come out with UP5 with thunderbolt ports.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128559


1) will I ever use thunderbolt?
2) Will I be able to buy an expansion card to place on the UD5H or does it need a chip on the mainboard?


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lutsar*
> 
> How you get ram stable? if i use high fsb then i cant get stable memory, but with lower fsb and same timing and mhz is memory stable. What voltage i must increase?


lutsar,

As I mentioned in my last post, I read this entire forum for tips & tricks to optimize my UD5 motherboard's performance. Start at page 1 for help so you can get yours to perform how you like it. Make sure you keep your CPU cool!

bcudasteve


----------



## lutsar

Overclocking my stable but I need to know how the program can be as high FSB stable with no memory of anything after the same stable with lower FSB and the same memories timinguna MHz and is stable.


----------



## lutsar

4ghz 14x286fsb 9-9-9-27 1587mhz memory not stable
4ghz 14x286 9-9-9-27 1125mhz memory is stable
cpu stock speed 9-9-9-27 1600mhz memory is stable

Why my 4ghz memory is not stable and cpu stock speed same timing and stuff is?


----------



## cmac68

Bios vF9b is now availible for the GA-990FXA-UD3 v1.0 and v1.1.

1. Beta Bios
2. Update CPU AGESA 1.2.7.1
3. Update RAID AHCI version

v1.0- http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894#bios

v1.1- http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3996#bios


----------



## lutsar

4ghz 14x286fsb 9-9-9-27 1587mhz memory not stable
4ghz 14x286 9-9-9-27 1125mhz memory is stable
cpu stock speed 9-9-9-27 1600mhz memory is stable

Why my 4ghz cpu memory is not stable and cpu stock speed same timing and stuff is?


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lutsar*
> 
> 4ghz 14x286fsb 9-9-9-27 1587mhz memory not stable
> 4ghz 14x286 9-9-9-27 1125mhz memory is stable
> cpu stock speed 9-9-9-27 1600mhz memory is stable
> Why my 4ghz cpu memory is not stable and cpu stock speed same timing and stuff is?


My *UD5* is absolutely able to reach up to *325MHz base clk* without a single bit of problem. However I have 2 x 4GB ADATA 1333MHz CL9 1.5v memory installed on my board and hence I could not make it stable over 1300MHz (325 x 4), next multiplier gives 1732MHz (325 x 5.33) and this frequency is not supported by my RAM. The fastest and stablest memory frequency I have ever reached with this RAM is 1524MHz (286 x 5.33) at 7-9-7-23-1T at 1.728v (1.75volts in bios).

Some RAMs overclock and some don't. In my experience there is no problem with UD5 as the clock generator in UD5 seems very good. I believe even some expensive Crosshair V formula boards fail at this Bus clock (325).

Well, what memory are you using ?, I mean may you please tell about your RAM's Brand, timing, frequency and voltage ? Also which CPU are you using ?

Oh one thing I forgot to tell, Only BIOS ver. F7 and the lower versions are able to maintain that type of overclock without any problem for me. Most overclock settings were either failing or resetting to default in F8, F9 and even the latest one F10b. Hence I recommend you to use F7 till some upcoming bios fixes these types issues.


----------



## lutsar

ud5 and memroy are 1866mhz 1.5v and i can go over 330fsb stable with very low ram mhz ja ****ty timings like 286fsb. i have latest bios 1055t
with stock speed i can reach my rams 1600mhz 7-7-7-19 1t 1.55v without problem and with overclocked to 4ghz 286fsb i cant even get stable my ram at 9-9-9-27 1.65v @ 15xx mhz something


----------



## patricksiglin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *waltcujo*
> 
> So what does everyone think about the UD5? is it as bad as the reviews say on newegg? should I take the chance of buying it or choose something else? are any owners here having the board die only after a few months,or having the bios get stuck in a boot loop or been denied an rma I heard that gigabyte did not even put serial numbers on the board and are denieing people there warranties these boards are so bad
> 
> 
> 
> I have rev 1. Lots of vdrop or boost depending on the bios. No LLC but its a stable board. I can run my 955 be to 4.2ghz on air with some of the older bios or my fx-6100 at 4.3ghz on air. I don't think its a problem with the 1.1 revs since they come with LLC.
Click to expand...


----------



## ebduncan

i updated my bios on my ud3 to the f8 bios. LOVE IT. Before i was rocking the f5 bios. I tried the f6-f7 bios and seemed horrible.

I wonder if the new f9b bios is any good.
"Beta BIOS
Update CPU AGESA 1.2.7.1
Update RAID AHCI version
"

I do use raid, but never had a problem before. Wonder the if new Agesa code is for piledriver :-D.

I like my FX, it can clock extremely high (5.2ghz) if i want to deal with the fan noise. I run at 4.7-4.8 normally. at 1.4 vcore. (1.39 after vdroop) Never goes over 50c.

I still want to drop in pile driver, and get that IPC boost and then dabble my fingers into overclocking! Its pretty sad my old [email protected] 4.1 ghz is as fast as my FX at 5ghz in single thread. I think Pile driver will fix that, and give me very solid gains in single threaded applications. With its 10-15% ipc improvement. Still tad slower than Phenom 2 clock for clock, but we all know the FX processors clock alot higher.

Ie with a 15% ipc improvement at thuban @ 4.2ghz would compared to a piledriver at 5.5ghz would be a 25% improvement per core. Granted who knows how these chips will overclock, but i hope for 5.5ghz or higher :-D


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munnis*
> 
> how to kill static sound in windows? when it boots to windows then static sound starts, and in safe mode it have too


static is noise. it does not come from windows, more from faulty hardware or wrong output devices or a piece of low quality hardware that causes interference.
try powering your pc with a grounded powerplug in a grounded power socket.


----------



## bcudasteve

Also (could be power line noise) make sure the polarity on the electrical socket is correct. I have seen that in some instances where the power socket is wired backwards.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i updated my bios on my ud3 to the f8 bios. LOVE IT. Before i was rocking the f5 bios. I tried the f6-f7 bios and seemed horrible.
> I wonder if the new f9b bios is any good.
> "Beta BIOS
> Update CPU AGESA 1.2.7.1
> Update RAID AHCI version
> "
> I do use raid, but never had a problem before. Wonder the if new Agesa code is for piledriver :-D.
> I like my FX, it can clock extremely high (5.2ghz) if i want to deal with the fan noise. I run at 4.7-4.8 normally. at 1.4 vcore. (1.39 after vdroop) Never goes over 50c.
> I still want to drop in pile driver, and get that IPC boost and then dabble my fingers into overclocking! Its pretty sad my old [email protected] 4.1 ghz is as fast as my FX at 5ghz in single thread. I think Pile driver will fix that, and give me very solid gains in single threaded applications. With its 10-15% ipc improvement. Still tad slower than Phenom 2 clock for clock, but we all know the FX processors clock alot higher.
> Ie with a 15% ipc improvement at thuban @ 4.2ghz would compared to a piledriver at 5.5ghz would be a 25% improvement per core. Granted who knows how these chips will overclock, but i hope for 5.5ghz or higher :-D


Have you seen any news of 'release dates' for the 82xx piledrivers series yet?


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> Also (could be power line noise) make sure the polarity on the electrical socket is correct. I have seen that in some instances where the power socket is wired backwards.


ehm i think you know that every electrical socket in your house is AC?







polarity is constantly switching, it can never be wrong.


----------



## moonmanas

RAM help plz!

Can anyone say what is the difference in these sets ? apart from one has blue heatsinks. The black is listed as compatable to run at 1866 the blue is not on the QVL. I bought the blue thinking colour was the only difference but no way will it run more than 1600mhz. Has anyone else tried either of the two sets and how did it run?

http://www.ebuyer.com/262585-corsair-8gb-ddr3-1866mhz-vengeance-memory-cmz8gx3m2a1866c9

http://www.ebuyer.com/274040-corsair-8gb-ddr3-1866mhz-vengeance-memory-cmz8gx3m2a1866c9b

Thanks..


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Have you seen any news of 'release dates' for the 82xx piledrivers series yet?


Well first of all they will not be 82xx, but 8300. Models so far are 8350/ 8320/8300 For the eight cores, and 6300 for the hexcore, then 4320 for the quad core.

They are set to release in October sometime, or mid q3.

Here are some trinity desktop benchmarks done by Toms Hardware. Trinity offers a 15% improvement over FX IPC. This is done with out L3. Now They are still slower core number to core number compared to llano or thuban in floating point benchmarks. However the 8 core should outperform the thuban hexcore's in all areas now. Piledriver with l3 should amount to 15-20% faster than current FX processors in IPC. So the mutithreaded gains will be large. What remains to be seen is just how high they will overclock to. At 5+ghz they will clearly be quite a bit faster than any of Amd's current line up.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/a10-5800k-a8-5600k-trinity-apu,3241.html


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> ehm i think you know that every electrical socket in your house is AC?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> polarity is constantly switching, it can never be wrong.


I used to work for an electrical contractor (USA), it is correct that an AC socket can be wired wrong. Make sure with an AC socket tester available at your local hardware store.


----------



## bcudasteve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Well first of all they will not be 82xx, but 8300. Models so far are 8350/ 8320/8300 For the eight cores, and 6300 for the hexcore, then 4320 for the quad core.
> They are set to release in October sometime, or mid q3.
> Here are some trinity desktop benchmarks done by Toms Hardware. Trinity offers a 15% improvement over FX IPC. This is done with out L3. Now They are still slower core number to core number compared to llano or thuban in floating point benchmarks. However the 8 core should outperform the thuban hexcore's in all areas now. Piledriver with l3 should amount to 15-20% faster than current FX processors in IPC. So the mutithreaded gains will be large. What remains to be seen is just how high they will overclock to. At 5+ghz they will clearly be quite a bit faster than any of Amd's current line up.
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/a10-5800k-a8-5600k-trinity-apu,3241.html


Thanks for the info, appreciated.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bcudasteve*
> 
> I used to work for an electrical contractor (USA), it is correct that an AC socket can be wired wrong. Make sure with an AC socket tester available at your local hardware store.


hm maybe its different in the USA, I live in europe.


----------



## neojin29

PLEASE ADD ME

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2455669


----------



## MadGoat

im holding out hope that a sexy looking 660ti is released... None of the 670's (except for the vanilla evga) look good enough to molest my 990fx...









furthermore I hope x2 660ti's in Sli hit a sweet spot in performance...


----------



## neojin29

*IS THERE ANYTHING THAT SWITCHING TO F8 WILL DO THAT F5 WILL NOT OR WHAT ABOUT OVERCLOCKING WITH F8?????*


----------



## SoulFiend

Hi, I need some help. When I bought my 990FXA-UD3 i updated the BIOS to the latest at the time, it was the F6e, now I want to try the F8, but I cant update the BIOS in Q-Flash, it doesn't find any files on my 8 gig stick. Everything is as it should be, like the last time but nothings is found. I downloaded the file from gigabytes web site, under 990FXA-UD3 rev 1 , ran it, to extract the files to my 8 gig stick which is FAT32 as it should be and restarted my PC, pushed [End] and got into Q-Flash and nothing... I don't get it, it worked last time, now it doesn't?? Any help guys?

Thanks

Edit: I got the BIOS updated by using @BIOS.


----------



## steezebe

Does anyone know of motherboard waterblocks for the UD5? I've seen some for the UD7 by EK but that's all I've seen.

PS I've spilled so much water on my UD5 mobo the fact that it still runs perfect is rather incredible. I had an ASUS but it was just too fragile; These are a great mobo for those who may not have steady hands


----------



## levontraut

add me please..

i just bought one off the ocn sales section and waiting for it in the post.

hopefully it will be here tomorrow and then i can strip down my rig and rebuild it with the new board


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoulFiend*
> 
> Hi, I need some help. When I bought my 990FXA-UD3 i updated the BIOS to the latest at the time, it was the F6e, now I want to try the F8, but I cant update the BIOS in Q-Flash, it doesn't find any files on my 8 gig stick. Everything is as it should be, like the last time but nothings is found. I downloaded the file from gigabytes web site, under 990FXA-UD3 rev 1 , ran it, to extract the files to my 8 gig stick which is FAT32 as it should be and restarted my PC, pushed [End] and got into Q-Flash and nothing... I don't get it, it worked last time, now it doesn't?? Any help guys?
> Thanks
> Edit: I got the BIOS updated by using @BIOS.


You need to use a smaller stick. Try 4 GB or less.

WW


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Edit: I got the BIOS updated by using @BIOS.


Quote:


> You need to use a smaller stick. Try 4 GB or less.
> 
> WW


read, he updated the bios ;-)


----------



## SpaceCowboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steezebe*
> 
> Does anyone know of motherboard waterblocks for the UD5? I've seen some for the UD7 by EK but that's all I've seen. :


I looked into board blocks for the UD3, found none, then tried looking for something for the UD5, found nonE, so bought the UD7 when I found EK made one for the UD7.


----------



## Christobevii3

I just got a UD5 in and am having trouble with my ssd. I have a 120GB ssd that was just working an hour before on an asus m3a32 790fx. I plug it into the gigabyte ud5 and it doesn't show in bios. Set to AHCI and it won't show but one of the non showing drives shows 136GB. What is going on and anyone have any advice? It is a mushkin sandforce 1 drive. The sandforce 2 mushkin shows fine.


----------



## Obfuscator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Christobevii3*
> 
> I just got a UD5 in and am having trouble with my ssd. I have a 120GB ssd that was just working an hour before on an asus m3a32 790fx. I plug it into the gigabyte ud5 and it doesn't show in bios. Set to AHCI and it won't show but one of the non showing drives shows 136GB. What is going on and anyone have any advice? It is a mushkin sandforce 1 drive. The sandforce 2 mushkin shows fine.


What SATA connector are you using?


----------



## Christobevii3

Trying sata the sata 6.0 and the adjacent sata 3.0 ports.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I just got a UD5 in and am having trouble with my ssd. I have a 120GB ssd that was just working an hour before on an asus m3a32 790fx. I plug it into the gigabyte ud5 and it doesn't show in bios. Set to AHCI and it won't show but one of the non showing drives shows 136GB. What is going on and anyone have any advice? It is a mushkin sandforce 1 drive. The sandforce 2 mushkin shows fine.


in the bios after setting ahci, Go to hard drive boot priority, is the drive listed there? if so make it your primary boot drive. Then boot devices list hard drive then hard drive.


----------



## Christobevii3

No it is not listed there. If I go through the drive listing for the ide devices I can get on that shows 136GB, all other info is blank.


----------



## truckerguy

once you set ahci reboot computer the board has to detect it


----------



## Christobevii3

Which it is not doing...


----------



## ebduncan

might be a defective ssd then.


----------



## Christobevii3

I've been using it on a 790fx board for 2 years. I literally powered it down, changed mobos, and it doesn't work with it. I have it plugged into a usb dock on my laptop no problems. At what point would you think it is a defective ssd???


----------



## ZoomThruPoom

Update SSD firmware.


----------



## Christobevii3

Won't detect a brand new laptop wd 320GB either. Might send back the board


----------



## Christobevii3

Got it! The power supply had a sata lead going flakey and the beta bios got it working


----------



## levontraut

hi guys.

what is the best firmware for the ud5 for overclocking my 1055T please??


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> hi guys.
> what is the best firmware for the ud5 for overclocking my 1055T please??


F7 suits best for my UD5 + 1055T. Any BIOS version higher than F7 often resets my most overclock settings.


----------



## TUG

Hi, i'm currently overclocking a athlon ii x3 460 cpu in a carbide 500R case and phantek heat sink, well vented etc.
I've got prime 95 running (20 mins in) my temps are 40c across all 3 cores at 3727mhz but i'm not sure if i'm over clocking this right.
The bus speed is 233.0hmz and the HT Link is 2096.9mhz. am i missing something or am i doing this all wrong, some guidance is needed, if you need to know my multiplier it is 16.0, my voltages are 1.50-1.47v CPU VCORE , Package is 103.13W to the CPU too.

EDIT: forgot that my Bios are upto date also.


----------



## ebduncan

that is a high vcore for those clocks.

I would suggest overclocking the north bridge, you can leave the hyper transport alone. Since you have to overclock using FSB on that processor, make sure you memory clocks are not causing the stability issue, by lowering the memory multiplier, for more FSB.


----------



## TUG

Hey, urm, i'm not having any stabilizy issues, i left prime on for an hour and 10 mins, but temps never went higher than 48 on both CPU and NB, the CPU cores all read out at 42c max. I'll do as you suggested though, my ram is rated at 1565mhz atm i think so isnt too bad.

I should mention i've been running games fine too like metro2033 and tf2


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUG*
> 
> Hey, urm, i'm not having any stabilizy issues, i left prime on for an hour and 10 mins, but temps never went higher than 48 on both CPU and NB, the CPU cores all read out at 42c max. I'll do as you suggested though, my ram is rated at 1565mhz atm i think so isnt too bad.
> I should mention i've been running games fine too like metro2033 and tf2


That's not long enough for a system stability test using Prime95. You need to run all the FFT's for prime to be of any use. When you open Prime95 tick the *Custom* bubble. Make sure the number of torture test threads to run is proper. (4,6 or 8 core's depending on CPU). Leave the min and max FFT size at default. Leave the Run FFTs in-place box un-ticked.

Now you need to set the memory usage. When Prime95 is running you want about 95% of system memory used(this included both OS/background apps and Prime95). So if your PC use's 2 gig's out of 8 at idle you want to set prime to use 5.5(ish) gig's of RAM for a total usage of 7.5gigs out of 8. Just tossed those number's out as an example, adjust them as per your RAM usage.

Then you can select how long to run each FFT. You want to leave this at 10-15 min.

Now you leave Prime running until it has ran all FFT's tests, how long will depend on your CPU/RAM speed's. I know my i5 2500k @ 4.7Ghz and RAM @ 1866 CAS 8 it take's around 17-18 hours and on my 955BE @ 4.0 RAM at 1600 CAS 8 and 2800CPU/NB it take's about 21 hours to run all FFTS.

This is the best way to use prime for a Stability test. If you are looking for a faster test you might try Linpack.

Another method to test your PC's thermal's is to run Intel Burn Test(with lots of RAM usage) and then while its running load up FurMark. This will put your CPU, RAM and GPU under stress all at the same time, let it run for like 10-15 min to see what your temps hit. This is how I have tested stability and Thermal performance for a while. Hope this helps you some.


----------



## TUG

Hi, i turned down the mulipliers for my ram and cpu and put the frequency up, on first boot it bluescreened saying nonpaged memory error, so i upped the voltage to the Ram 0.05 and its been fine so far, i'll try what you have suggested and go from there, the clock speed atm is 3781mhz on the cpu.

If i'm really doing things wrong please tell me, but when i ask people they just confuse me and tbh finding information i can understand is difficult. I read that the nb frequency has to be set in a certain range for AMD chips for best performance and my previous nb frequency was too high and might have caused my BSOD.

Temps are fine so far and i ran a benchmark http://3dmark.com/3dm11/4046285 If you would like me to get pics of the settings i have in Bios and additional information to help me further then please just ask and i'll see what i can do.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUG*
> 
> Hi, i turned down the mulipliers for my ram and cpu and put the frequency up, on first boot it bluescreened saying nonpaged memory error, so i upped the voltage to the Ram 0.05 and its been fine so far, i'll try what you have suggested and go from there, the clock speed atm is 3781mhz on the cpu.
> If i'm really doing things wrong please tell me, but when i ask people they just confuse me and tbh finding information i can understand is difficult. I read that the nb frequency has to be set in a certain range for AMD chips for best performance and my previous nb frequency was too high and might have caused my BSOD.
> Temps are fine so far and i ran a benchmark http://3dmark.com/3dm11/4046285 If you would like me to get pics of the settings i have in Bios and additional information to help me further then please just ask and i'll see what i can do.


Its hard to tell people how to overclock. Personally I OC a gaming machine different than I OC a rendering/work machine.

For instance I don't overclock RAM on gaming machines. Its pointless and won't give any real world performance in my opinion(Exception being AMD APU's). I will OC the RAM in work based machines.

not to mention you can do simple basic overclock's or you can go totally nuts. Its best you learn as much as you can at your own pace and keep fiddling with it. At some point you get to understand how you like your machines to perform.

If you have some specific question(s) to ask we might be able to assist you a little better







What mobo are you on?


----------



## TUG

Hi, yes sorry it's a 990FXA-UD5, Ram is Gskill Ripjaws X cl9.

I ran intel burn like you sugested and furmark at the same time and it was completely fine including temps with all my fans set to minimum. Highest temp recorded was 48 across all 3 cores, TMPIN0= 36c, TMPIN1= 55c, TMPIN2= 57c.

Intelburn says it's stable and the test was completed in = 5680.45secs. Not sure if that's good or a bad time?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUG*
> 
> Hi, yes sorry it's a 990FXA-UD5, Ram is Gskill Ripjaws X cl9.
> I ran intel burn like you sugested and furmark at the same time and it was completely fine including temps with all my fans set to minimum. Highest temp recorded was 48 across all 3 cores, TMPIN0= 36c, TMPIN1= 55c, TMPIN2= 57c.
> Intelburn says it's stable and the test was completed in = 5680.45secs. Not sure if that's good or a bad time?


The time is relative. Faster is faster, slower is slower lol. That is the hard part about optimizing an overclock. My sig rig is a good example. I can hit 5.2Ghz stable but its totally useless. No gains in performance what so ever after 5.0Ghz. and in gaming there is no benifit past 4.3Ghz. When I use rendering to test the performance of my OC's After 5.0 it actually slow's down some.

Some one else might be able to get performance benefit at 5.2Ghz in gaming, all depends on your system. If you want to know how much better your OC is doing then run IBT on bone stock settings and note the time's. Then ramp up your OC and see if your time's get lower or higher.

Same with testing game performance. Take note's of your FPS at stock settings then bump up the system and see if there is a noticeable difference. Having a Black Edition CPU(unlocked multiplier) is nice for this reason, it allows you many options when overclocking

Is your UD5 a revision with LLC or no?


----------



## TUG

Hi,
My rig has gained a few FPS across the board, i ran 3dmark 11 and my score bumped up from 3400+ to that score in the link i posted, 3906. The boot up seems a bit faster (don't know if thats just me imagining it though).

Motherboard box states it is a Rev: 1,1? so unsure on the LLC?

I will write down my settings then run IBT again and note down the results of that too. Thanks for your help so far, as for stability, the rig was on running IBT on a second test and i opened programs like PS Ai and firefox <- memory munchers and nothing happened, no blue screen, no stalls. So what ever i've done seems to be stable?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUG*
> 
> Hi,
> My rig has gained a few FPS across the board, i ran 3dmark 11 and my score bumped up from 3400+ to that score in the link i posted, 3906. The boot up seems a bit faster (don't know if thats just me imagining it though).
> Motherboard box states it is a Rev: 1,1? so unsure on the LLC?
> I will write down my settings then run IBT again and note down the results of that too. Thanks for your help so far, as for stability, the rig was on running IBT on a second test and i opened programs like PS Ai and firefox <- memory munchers and nothing happened, no blue screen, no stalls. So what ever i've done seems to be stable?


Your revision 1.1 should have LLC(load line calibration). This is good. The only real problem these mobo's have as a whole(ude3 5 and 7) is their VCORE Droop and boost. Vdroop and or boost is where you set your Vcore to a value. Lets say your running 1.40Vcore With out LLC set properly your voltage will actually drop or rasie under full load. My UD3 has no LLC and when I set my Vcore to 1.45v under full load my voltage drops by 0.10v to 1.44v.

LLC(I don't have) allows you to set a voltage offset so the voltage stays closer to what you set it as


----------



## TUG

that is good news then, i'm unsure on what version my brother has, we have the same setup only his rig has a coolermaster V6GT cooling a 1090t, how can i find out what model/revision his board is?

I havent set it to stock and checked anything yet, i want to though as i dont know how long it will take me to get a 1090t or 1100t myself for this build, i intend to go ivybridge when i get my business going and a mac purely for work as i find my time spent designing takes a huge dive on a PC, i can't explain how so don't hate me for it.

anyway, i'll try and get more info to you and get this rig setup before the 1090t upgrade, i want some aerocool white sharks x2-4, and a better 200mm fan for the case in white then upgrade my main hdd to an SSD and so on and so forth.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUG*
> 
> that is good news then, i'm unsure on what version my brother has, we have the same setup only his rig has a coolermaster V6GT cooling a 1090t, how can i find out what model/revision his board is?
> I havent set it to stock and checked anything yet, i want to though as i dont know how long it will take me to get a 1090t or 1100t myself for this build, i intend to go ivybridge when i get my business going and a mac purely for work as i find my time spent designing takes a huge dive on a PC, i can't explain how so don't hate me for it.
> anyway, i'll try and get more info to you and get this rig setup before the 1090t upgrade, i want some aerocool white sharks x2-4, and a better 200mm fan for the case in white then upgrade my main hdd to an SSD and so on and so forth.


The revision will be printed on the motherboard. I can't remember exactly where off had... By the PCI slots or in a lower corner I want to say. 1090t would be the better buy over a 1100t but both are good CPU's. Yes, LLC is a great thing


----------



## LBGreenthumb

Does anyone know what improvements have been made for the 990fxa-ud3 f9b bios? I noticed they updated the cpu code, I was wondering what cpu they added support for.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

I stopped updating the BIOS on my UD3 at like f5 or there abouts lol. Its rock stable and works fine for me


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I stopped updating the BIOS on my UD3 at like f5 or there abouts lol. Its rock stable and works fine for me


I was the same way, but i just updated to f8, and find it to be solid.
Quote:


> Does anyone know what improvements have been made for the 990fxa-ud3 f9b bios? I noticed they updated the cpu code, I was wondering what cpu they added support for.


pile-driver. They are going to be released here soon. When the NDA is lifted I will post bench's vs my current FX


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I was the same way, but i just updated to f8, and find it to be solid.
> pile-driver. They are going to be released here soon. When the NDA is lifted I will post bench's vs my current FX


This new CPU AGESA code 1.2.7.1 (BIOS F9b) does not belong to Pile Drive, this is for Opteron 3260 and Opteron 3250. Both are Bulldozer Quad Core server class CPUs. Check in the CPU support list.


----------



## TUG

I keep getting random BSOD now when watching god damn youtube videos!
I did overclock my GPU slightly so it might be this but i've had weird BSOD saying pagefile etc, i better run memtest or a similair less hour intensive program, could anyone suggest the best way to test ram that doesn't consume a lot of time?

It might be possible that its the hard drive a friend gave me as once the install of windows disappeared on it.


----------



## lykomg

hey i have a UD3 mb and im not sure whats fried, my MB or CPU, i already tested my PSU, im now convinced that my MB is fried because two of the components behinf the cpu socket are black and not tan (Pic) when i press the power button fans turn on but there is no post, a differant computer did the same thing when i took out the cpu


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

can you RMA the motherboard?


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lykomg*
> 
> hey i have a UD3 mb and im not sure whats fried, my MB or CPU, i already tested my PSU, im now convinced that my MB is fried because two of the components behinf the cpu socket are black and not tan (Pic) when i press the power button fans turn on but there is no post, a differant computer did the same thing when i took out the cpu


Let the CPU be installed with its 3/4pin fan connected to the board and just start your board with only 20+4 Pin motherboard power connecter (remember without 12V CPU power connector), if CPU fan spins continuously and doesn't stop then this is not VRM failure at least. I've read it somewhere in Corsair forum and have tested it myself, I bricked two MSI boards and the one which was a VRM failure did not respond to the above procedure.

What CPU were you using ?
Did you overclock ? What settings ?


----------



## lykomg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> Let the CPU be installed with its 3/4pin fan connected to the board and just start your board with only 20+4 Pin motherboard power connecter (remember without 12V CPU power connector), if CPU fan spins continuously and doesn't stop then this is not VRM failure at least. I've read it somewhere in Corsair forum and have tested it myself, I bricked two MSI boards and the one which was a VRM failure did not respond to the above procedure.
> What CPU were you using ?
> Did you overclock ? What settings ?


I tried this and the fan stays sniping, no i wasnt overclocked, and i was using a FX 4100 with stock cooler, i originally thought it was the CPU because the cpu fan wouldnt turn on, its a different one now and it spins at very low a very slow speed

Just tested it again and the stock heat sink doesn't spin in the CPU connector and does in a sys_fan connector, so VRM failure?, a heat sink form a phenom II does spin when its connected to the CPU pan connector


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lykomg*
> 
> I tried this and the fan stays sniping, no i wasnt overclocked, and i was using a FX 4100 with stock cooler, i originally thought it was the CPU because the cpu fan wouldnt turn on, its a different one now and it spins at very low a very slow speed
> Just tested it again and the stock heat sink doesn't spin in the CPU connector and does in a sys_fan connector, so VRM failure?, a heat sink form a phenom II does spin when its connected to the CPU pan connector


It is strange one fan is spinning and other is not in a certain FAN header while both fans run absolutely fine with different FAN header. Try with another CPU. Check it with single slot of RAM. If problem remains then it is probably a VRM failure. BIOS doesn't seem to be damaged as our Gigabyte boards have additional BIOS as a backup source. What could be the problem Man ? You said it is black beside the resistor. Do you really believe you could damaged this or it may be a faulty board. What were you doing last time when it started failing. Have you tested your power supply with other system till successful boot ?


----------



## Wild Wally

I'd check your BIOS settings as some boards allow different behaviors for different fan headers.

WW


----------



## TUG

I ran memtest86+ from a pendrive and on test 5 i got 1377 errors, but i dont know if i should see this as a faulty ram stick or not as i've read sticks in slot 1 &3 or 2&4 often pop up with errors on test 5 for some reason and when tested individually or not in a channel config they work fine/ test without errors?

Anybody else having issues with youtube or is it just me? i've set my GPU back to stock clocks and my overclock has been removed everything is set to stock apart from my RAM which is at 1333mhz not the 1600mhz its rated at.

RAM = G skill F3-12800CL9D-8GBXL CL9-9-9-24 1.5v Anybody had any issues with this ram when putting them to stock clocks manually?


----------



## TUG

Ok guys, really scratching my head here,

if i set everything on my mobo to auto i have no BSOD, but if i keep everything stock but the RAM which is set to 1333 on auto to 1600 buy upping the multiplier i get BSOD and errors in memtest, as opposed to when set at 1333mhz (underclocked) i get no errors in memtest and no BSOD...

What am i doing wrong? why does my ram keep crashing my rig when set to stock clocks stated on the packaging?


----------



## The Sandman

It's not uncommon with the AMD Platform to require a slight boast to Dram Voltage (yes, even for stock) due to the manufactures spec which is Intel based. Usually .05 to .1v increase is enough but you'll have to make small increases and test to see exactly how much/little you can get away with. Some test with SuperPi, myself I also test with LinX.

Always best to manually enter "ALL" the Dram specs.


----------



## TUG

Hi, Thanks for the reply, one of my RAM sticks is dead it wont even post at 1333mhz so i think both sticks are for ****ed.

Sorry for the language but i'm extremely pissed off, I dont know what to do now in terms of replacing the ram, the RAM was bought as a gift from a friend for my birthday, i dont have all the packaging but what i do have is the card that came with the sticks inbtween the plastic with all the details on. Can I RMA it? it was bought for me on the 14th of May so...

I keep looking at Corsair ram these to be exact or the 1600 in white http://www.scan.co.uk/products/8gb-%282x4gb%29-corsair-ddr3-vengeance-red-lp-pc3-14900-%281866%29-non-ecc-unbuffered-cas-9-10-9-27-xmp-15v[/URL]

Just don't know what to do now, is there even any point me putting both sticks in again or just the one working one, i did put the 2nd one in on its own in DIMM4 if that effects it at all?


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> It's not uncommon with the AMD Platform to require a slight boast to Dram Voltage (yes, even for stock) due to the manufactures spec which is Intel based. Usually .05 to .1v increase is enough but you'll have to make small increases and test to see exactly how much/little you can get away with. Some test with SuperPi, myself I also test with LinX.
> Always best to manually enter "ALL" the Dram specs.


Hello Sandman !
I am seeing you are running IMC at very good frequency. May you please tell how much CPU-NB voltage do you have to increase for that high frequency ? Mine is stable at 3000MHz at 1.375volts. Well my current RAM is not letting me go over 300 baseClk. But with some other RAMs and with a lot of BIOS tweaking, I've seen my board can do 325. Also can you tell what memory bandwidth score are you getting in Sandra ?
Thanks and +1 in advance


----------



## TUG

Looks like i was wrong, if i put the bad stick in Dimm 1 instead of 4 it boots up fine, but i still cant get the sticks to pass memtest test 5 in 1600mhz, surely someone here has been through this?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TUG*
> 
> Looks like i was wrong, if i put the bad stick in Dimm 1 instead of 4 it boots up fine, but i still cant get the sticks to pass memtest test 5 in 1600mhz, surely someone here has been through this?


What RAM and CPU are you using again? post voltage's and stuff too please.


----------



## blue-cat

Does the SYS FAN 1 header require a 4 pin fan connector as I have tried a number of fans and they don't spin up, they falter and need jump-starting like an old fashioned WWII Spitfire. I'm using the other headers atm but its crazy. I thought maybe my TX750 was struggling to power all the harddrives and fans (6x120, 1x140 & 1x240) but I can add a second 240mm on header SYS FAN 2 without any issues.

Any ideas?


----------



## Wild Wally

I have two GSkill kits. One is 4 sticks of 1866 DDR3 (16 G total) which will run at 1333 when all 4 sticks are in use and at 1600 when only 2 sticks are in use. The othe kit is two stcks of 1866 DDR3 (16 GB total) which will only run at 1333.

Seems like if the modules are over 4 GB in size or if more than 2 sticks are used you can only run 1333 in auto.

This has been my experience with the FX-8150 on the UD7 board. If I use a Phenom II 970 or 980 I can run everything at 1600.

IIRC, this is an issue with the memory controller on the FX chip.

WW


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> Hello Sandman !
> I am seeing you are running IMC at very good frequency. May you please tell how much CPU-NB voltage do you have to increase for that high frequency ? Mine is stable at 3000MHz at 1.375volts. Well my current RAM is not letting me go over 300 baseClk. But with some other RAMs and with a lot of BIOS tweaking, I've seen my board can do 325. Also can you tell what memory bandwidth score are you getting in Sandra ?
> Thanks and +1 in advance


This 28 hr Prime95 4233 OC has CPU/NB voltage manually entered into bios as 1.442v using "Offset voltage" and "CPU/NB LLC" on "Full". Under load w/Prime95 it may spike to 1.500v but usually runs at 1.47v running "Blend". Everyday use it runs at 1.43v.
Please note, this is with a 1090T and 890FX chipset (CHIV).
I'd be happy to DL Sandra but this rig is currently running/testing 8GBs of Samsung Wonder Ram I bought a while back just to see how it performs and haven't gotten the 3211MHz NB Freq stabilized yet with these Samsung's.
Here's a snip of MaxxMem with the 4233MHz and 3211MHz with the Ripjaws listed in rig sig. There's also a link in my sig for more info on MaxxMem. If there's anything else I can help with feel free to PM me.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> This 28 hr Prime95 4233 OC has CPU/NB voltage manually entered into bios as 1.442v using "Offset voltage" and "CPU/NB LLC" on "Full". Under load w/Prime95 it may spike to 1.500v but usually runs at 1.47v running "Blend". Everyday use it runs at 1.43v.
> Please note, this is with a 1090T and 890FX chipset (CHIV).
> I'd be happy to DL Sandra but this rig is currently running/testing 8GBs of Samsung Wonder Ram I bought a while back just to see how it performs and haven't gotten the 3211MHz NB Freq stabilized yet with these Samsung's.
> Here's a snip of MaxxMem with the 4233MHz and 3211MHz with the Ripjaws listed in rig sig. There's also a link in my sig for more info on MaxxMem. If there's anything else I can help with feel free to PM me.


Thank you Sandman !

I am going to buy "Gskill RipjawX 2x4GB 2133-CL11-11-11-30-2T 1.5v". I only want to run DRAM at 1600-1700Mhz with lowest achievable timings.

As I've experienced my 1055T's IMC doesn't seem to have any problem running memory at lower latency. I've done 1706Mhz 7-9-7-23-1T (3200CPU-NB) with my old Adata 1333 CL9. But that was completely unstable







. Here in India, there are many high frequency RAMs available, but I couldn't find any one which have CL7 or CL8. That is why I want to buy those ripjawx. Also my board doesn't have any problem running base clock at 300-320Mhz. (I've even done 325 but that was completely unstable no matter what voltage you set).

My overclock settings will be CPU at 4.1Ghz (304 x 13.4), DRAM at 1620MHz (304 x 5.33) 6-8-6-20 or 7-9-7-23-1T. No problem, CPU is stable at 1.525v at BIOS and 1.456v at load.
As you are seeing these kits are 2133 CL11,
do you think these RAMs would be able to perform at 1600-1700Mhz at CL6 or CL7 at least ?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> Thank you Sandman !
> I am going to buy "Gskill RipjawX 2x4GB 2133-CL11-11-11-30-2T 1.5v". I only want to run DRAM at 1600-1700Mhz with lowest achievable timings.
> As I've experienced my 1055T's IMC doesn't seem to have any problem running memory at lower latency. I've done 1706Mhz 7-9-7-23-1T (3200CPU-NB) with my old Adata 1333 CL9. But that was completely unstable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Here in India, there are many high frequency RAMs available, but I couldn't find any one which have CL7 or CL8. That is why I want to buy those ripjawx. Also my board doesn't have any problem running base clock at 300-320Mhz. (I've even done 325 but that was completely unstable no matter what voltage you set).
> My overclock settings will be CPU at 4.1Ghz (304 x 13.4), DRAM at 1620MHz (304 x 5.33) 6-8-6-20 or 7-9-7-23-1T. No problem, CPU is stable at 1.525v at BIOS and 1.456v at load.
> As you are seeing these kits are 2133 CL11,
> do you think these RAMs would be able to perform at 1600-1700Mhz at CL6 or CL7 at least ?


CL8 maybe.... more likely CL9 at best.
I've tried tightening my http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231435 at 16-1700MHz and found they perform much better in the intended freq range. In my case 9-11-9 @ 2006MHz.
You might be better off staying with 12800 (1600 CL8) and tighten those with the 1055 IMHO. To take full advantage of these 2133MHz kits you need an FX, that's where they will really shine.


----------



## zvonexp

What difference is in 990FXA-UD7 rev 1.1 and rev 1.2 ?


----------



## TUG

athlon ii x3 and G skill 4gb sticks 1600mhz 9-9-9-24

I have them both installed in DIMM 2 & 1 as per manual statements. They are both in Memtest running at 1333mhz and are on their 3rd pass with no errors, if i put them in 1600 i can bet my last note that it will hard lock memtest and BSOD my rig.

Does the athlon chips have any sort of memory limit? my board is a UD5, and i'm pretty sure the corsair domins in my brothers rig run at 1600mhz but he has a phenom ii x 6 1090t


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> athlon ii x3 and G skill 4gb sticks 1600mhz 9-9-9-24
> 
> I have them both installed in DIMM 2 & 1 as per manual statements. They are both in Memtest running at 1333mhz and are on their 3rd pass with no errors, if i put them in 1600 i can bet my last note that it will hard lock memtest and BSOD my rig.
> 
> Does the athlon chips have any sort of memory limit? my board is a UD5, and i'm pretty sure the corsair domins in my brothers rig run at 1600mhz but he has a phenom ii x 6 1090t


dims are labeled CPU socket << dim 4<< dim 2<< dim 3<< dim1 for dual channel to work you can either use dim 4&3 or Dim 1&2 NOTE the order i listed here.

unlike most mobo's these ones are not labeled linearly, and well its not color coded for dummies.

Also in the bios did you turn off c1e? can your memory support higher speeds? did you manually set the timings in the bios?


----------



## TUG

Yes to everything you said, and i put the sticks in DIMM 1&2 and its just passed memtest and test number 5....
Crap, lesson learned!
The manual states that in order to use 2 Sticks in dual channel they need to be placed into DIMM 1&2. the reason that my Stick gave the impression it was dead in DIMM 1 was due to the fact it wasn't set up in the bios to allow 160ms for DIMMs 1 & 2.

So basically i hope that my posts help out others, i'm going to be buying another domain soon to start a blog on tech hopefully to again help new people to building PCs etc. I thought i'd fried my RAM so badly when it kept locking up memtest, it proves that everyone should read the manual for their boards really.

Ah well, i know a few things but not everything and i'm happy to have gained some knowledge, on the plus side i dont need a hair cut now! hahaha


----------



## Obfuscator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> I have two GSkill kits. One is 4 sticks of 1866 DDR3 (16 G total) which will run at 1333 when all 4 sticks are in use and at 1600 when only 2 sticks are in use. The othe kit is two stcks of 1866 DDR3 (16 GB total) which will only run at 1333.
> Seems like if the modules are over 4 GB in size or if more than 2 sticks are used you can only run 1333 in auto.
> This has been my experience with the FX-8150 on the UD7 board. If I use a Phenom II 970 or 980 I can run everything at 1600.
> IIRC, this is an issue with the memory controller on the FX chip.
> WW


Thanks for your input on the memory modules over 4GB Wild Wally. I have been contemplating buying a 16GB (2 X 8GB) of memory at some point. I was planning on going up to 24GB (by having one 8GB kit and one 16GB kit) of RAM on my board. This would be for use as a RAM drive of course. I might be upgrading my processor to one the upcoming Piledriver-based CPUs in the future, I hope the memory controller on it will allow me to do what I what I have been planning.


----------



## Mule

Apologies for not finding the answer to this for myself yet, but while i'm replacing the TIM on the NB shall I do the same for the VRMs or leave the pad on there? I'm replacing the plastic push pins for nuts and bolts too for a tighter fit.

Cheers.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mule*
> 
> Apologies for not finding the answer to this for myself yet, but while i'm replacing the TIM on the NB shall I do the same for the VRMs or leave the pad on there? I'm replacing the plastic push pins for nuts and bolts too for a tighter fit.
> Cheers.


Is up to you if you want to replace the pads on the VRM's, I didn't because it was too tedious.
¿What type of nuts and bolts are you using for the replacing of the crappy plastic push pins? I really want to the same.


----------



## Wild Wally

Any thoughts on what settings I should use to get my GSkill RipJaws 8GB x 2 sticks up to their rated speed of 1866? I have a GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 1.0 with a FX-8150 CPU. No overclocking on anything right now. Using BIOS F10b with optimized defaults.

Thanks in advance,

WW


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Any thoughts on what settings I should use to get my GSkill RipJaws 8GB x 2 sticks up to their rated speed of 1866? I have a GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 1.0 with a FX-8150 CPU. No overclocking on anything right now. Using BIOS F10b with optimized defaults.
> Thanks in advance,
> WW


go into the intelegent section of the mobo and go from auto to manuel.... then manuely set everything to it std settings. then on the ram part there is also a setting to set your ram to the std frequency as well.


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> go into the intelegent section of the mobo and go from auto to manuel.... then manuely set everything to it std settings. then on the ram part there is also a setting to set your ram to the std frequency as well.


OK, can do. Thought there might be more to it than that. I'm assuming I'll have to boost the voltage too. Current voltage is 1.5V and this RAM can go to 1.65 iirc.

Thanks,









WW


----------



## itomic

Does 990FXA-UD3 has LLC ? Would i benefit from switching to 990FXA from my 970A-UD3 board in terms of overclocking on my FX 8120 ?? Also, on my board ( and i have latest BIOS, F6 ). When i set voltage maunaly in BIOS, its a bit strange. For example. I set it to say 1.4V for CPU. After reboot, it says that voltage is 1.325V in PC health and Windows, but in BIOS is set to 1.4v ! Also, my voltage goes up a bit in idle and then in load goes down to 1.29V ! Im wondering, voltage stability is better on 990FXA-UD3. Does 990FXA chipset is better for OC then 970-UD3. I have Noctua NH-D14 cooler, so heat isnt problem.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Does 990FXA-UD3 has LLC ? Would i benefit from switching to 990FXA from my 970A-UD3 board in terms of overclocking on my FX 8120 ?? Also, on my board ( and i have latest BIOS, F6 ). When i set voltage maunaly in BIOS, its a bit strange. For example. I set it to say 1.4V for CPU. After reboot, it says that voltage is 1.325V in PC health and Windows, but in BIOS is set to 1.4v ! Also, my voltage goes up a bit in idle and then in load goes down to 1.29V ! Im wondering, voltage stability is better on 990FXA-UD3. Does 990FXA chipset is better for OC then 970-UD3. I have Noctua NH-D14 cooler, so heat isnt problem.


Yes, later versions of the UD3 have LLC. Yes, it helps in overclocking. Sounds like your having a Vdroop/Vboost Issue. Load Line Calibration would be an amazing help in that situation, allowing for a more stable VCore and a more effective/refined overall overclock. In your case the Vdroop is pretty bad, in my case it isn't anywhere near as bad. I set my Vcore to 1.450v in bios and on load it droops to 1.440v. You should upgrade your mobo, for overclocking the CPU your going to want LLC and nice onboard cooling ability. So far my experiance with the UD3 has been great but its limited to Phenom II CPU's, Never ran a BD on mine.


----------



## itomic

Does 990FX chipset reaches higher OC then 970 chipset. Both have 8+2 CPU power delivery phases. Also i saw that 990FX has 19.6W TDP, 970 has 14W TDP. I dont realy know what that is all about. Does anybody knows this ?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_900_chipset_series


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Does 990FX chipset reaches higher OC then 970 chipset. Both have 8+2 CPU power delivery phases. Also i saw that 990FX has 19.6W TDP, 970 has 14W TDP. I dont realy know what that is all about. Deos anybody knows this ?
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_900_chipset_series


its hit and miss. There are no promise's when overclocking, you "should" get better results with the UD3 over your current board mostly due to the overclocking features(such as LLC) the UD3 provides, both Power Phase's should be similar in performance. The TDP stands for Thermal Design Power. What it means is the maximum amount of Power the component is able to handle. Higher TDP means higher temp's are safer for longer periods of time. So the 990FX-UD3 motherboard can sustain being heated to a higher level than your 970 mobo can. Do not confuse this with raising the thermal limits of the CPU, GPU, RAM and/or other parts of the PC. Each individual piece(CPU,RAM,GPU,Mobo) will have a TDP Limit.

EDIT: forgot, Higher TPD means the component is capable of more power AND voltage safely...


----------



## bajer29

Hey, I have a real quick question. I just got my UD3 today and noticed that the north bridge heatsink seemed a little loose but I didn't think much about it until I noticed that my CPU fan was making a lot of noise. The north bridge heatsink was hot to the touch. My question is, is there a way to tighten these kinds of heatsinks and what kind of thermal paste can I get away with using? I have AS5, and I hear that should do the trick.

CPU idle temps were around 35-45C. I feel like if I can do something about the heatsink I can cool down the CPU a considerable amount and maybe the fan won't be so loud.

Thanks!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Hey, I have a real quick question. I just got my UD3 today and noticed that the north bridge heatsink seemed a little loose but I didn't think much about it until I noticed that my CPU fan was making a lot of noise. The north bridge heatsink was hot to the touch. My question is, is there a way to tighten these kinds of heatsinks and what kind of thermal paste can I get away with using? I have AS5, and I hear that should do the trick.
> CPU idle temps were around 35-45C. I feel like if I can do something about the heatsink I can cool down the CPU a considerable amount and maybe the fan won't be so loud.
> Thanks!


Yea, this has been addressed a few times in this thread. First off, the heat sink will be warm to the touch, its fine. To firm up the heat sink some turn off the PC, open it up, ground yourself(discharge static), Apply pressure to the heat sink with thumbs or finger's. Some time's in shipping they can jiggle lose. This will press it back into the thermal compound.

You can also remove the heat sink and apply new thermal paste.

Lastly, You can pick up Nylon Plumber's washer's and use them as shim's for the NB heat sink. The added pressure will assist temps. Take note of the Pin's on the back of the motherboard before heading down to the local hardware store to make sure you get the proper size waster.

The NB temps are safe to the 75-80c range, according to Gigabyte Tech support so I wouldn't panic over it unless your system shows sign's of instability.


----------



## bajer29

I've never removed a north bridge hs, how would one go about doing that on the UD3?

Edit: I'm guessing you just squeeze the back of the plastic pins together and pull out? Also, would a stronger spring help with the loose fitting hs?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> I've never removed a north bridge hs, how would one go about doing that on the UD3?
> Edit: I'm guessing you just squeeze the back of the plastic pins together and pull out? Also, would a stronger spring help with the loose fitting hs?


Yes, A Stiffer spring will do the same as using nylon washer's as shim's, You can "custom" springs by looking for custom RC car Springs on e/bay or hobby store's, very cheap but nylon washer are cheaper. Take the old springs with you for reference on size/stiffness.

As for the removal, yes you are correct, pinch the plastic pin's togeather and the HS will pop off... for some reason I cannot picture the back side of my UD3 mobo, its been happily in the case for over a year now..for some reason I want to say its screwed on?? but I might be being insane....


----------



## ted86

Just got my UD3 in the mail the other day and can't wait to finish putting my rig together this weekend. 5 years is far too long to go without building a new computer.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> I've never removed a north bridge hs, how would one go about doing that on the UD3?
> Edit: I'm guessing you just squeeze the back of the plastic pins together and pull out? Also, would a stronger spring help with the loose fitting hs?


yes with a set of needle noise piers just pitch the back of the push pins and push them through. No sense in getting a stronger spring, you can just shim the spring for more pressure. Nylon washers work just fine. If you want more pressure you can replace the hole mounting system with nylon nut/bolt/washer combo. I have found the stock mounting method is just fine with just a small shim. I added a fan to my northbridge seemed to keep keep temps sub 60c. Also provides some air flow over the VRM's which is nice.

I have a old chrome orb sitting around (thermal take gpu/chipset cooler) I think i might see if it will fit.


----------



## MrGaZZaDaG

Hey guys!

OMG the new UD5 motherboards now have LLC. My mate brought a new rig and he got the FX8150 and this mobo... we was overclocking it last night and I can report that there was no volt drop at all! I only noticed that it probably added 0.05volts over base volts set.

Also I can not believe the boot up speed...

I am so going to sell my old first gen UD5 and get his new one


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yes, A Stiffer spring will do the same as using nylon washer's as shim's, You can "custom" springs by looking for custom RC car Springs on e/bay or hobby store's, very cheap but nylon washer are cheaper. Take the old springs with you for reference on size/stiffness.
> As for the removal, yes you are correct, pinch the plastic pin's togeather and the HS will pop off... for some reason I cannot picture the back side of my UD3 mobo, its been happily in the case for over a year now..for some reason I want to say its screwed on?? but I might be being insane....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> yes with a set of needle noise piers just pitch the back of the push pins and push them through. No sense in getting a stronger spring, you can just shim the spring for more pressure. Nylon washers work just fine. If you want more pressure you can replace the hole mounting system with nylon nut/bolt/washer combo. I have found the stock mounting method is just fine with just a small shim. I added a fan to my northbridge seemed to keep keep temps sub 60c. Also provides some air flow over the VRM's which is nice.
> I have a old chrome orb sitting around (thermal take gpu/chipset cooler) I think i might see if it will fit.


OK, I did the washers and reapplied the thermal paste. I still get 74C with prime95 after about 20 minutes or so. The NB temp idles at about 35. Ambient is about 27C. Does this sound about right?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> OK, I did the washers and reapplied the thermal paste. I still get 74C with prime95 after about 20 minutes or so. The NB temp idles at about 35. Ambient is about 27C. Does this sound about right?


Ok, there seems to be some confusion. The NB on the board won't raise in temp like that based off of Prime95 load. When most programs pool the NorthBrodge Temp they are actually polling the CPU-NB temp, which reside's in the actual CPU chip. The only way your going to get an actual NB chipset temp is with a digital thermometer or probe. Remeber AMD's have two Technical Noth Bridge's. CPU-NB and the motherboard NB chipset.

As for temps, lets just say you do actually get to 74c under full 100% load, your still fine. Your peak temp is with in Gigabyte's spec's. Dose this machine run at 100% often? unless you fold alot or are a constant encoder I think your fine, most user's only are only capabl of spiking to 100% in short bursts only lasting a few seconds. So keep that in mind when thinking about what temps are safe or not.


----------



## ebduncan

adding a fan helps ALOT.

my northbridge never goes over 60c now. The temps you see for the Cpuid hardware monitor for tmpin 2 are for the north bridge. I have confirmed the results using the infrared gun. Temps on the heatsink a very close to what is reported in the software.

I will get around to installing the chrome orb soon. I have to take the motherboard out to get to the pins on the back, so give me a few days till i feel like doing it. I will report back with temps vs the stock heatsink+fan vs the orb cooler. I don't need to do this, but will add some bling to the board haha, and it will probably reduce the temps further.
Quote:


> Hey guys!
> 
> OMG the new UD5 motherboards now have LLC. My mate brought a new rig and he got the FX8150 and this mobo... we was overclocking it last night and I can report that there was no volt drop at all! I only noticed that it probably added 0.05volts over base volts set.
> 
> Also I can not believe the boot up speed...
> 
> I am so going to sell my old first gen UD5 and get his new one


all the new fxa boards have LLC now. I honestly wouldn't buy another board just yet. Gigabyte is going to release a new set of boards here soon, probably when pile-driver is released, these will have the uefi bios Or so is rumored.


----------



## levontraut

well i must say... i had the 8800 gma ud2h board and that one was a 4+1 power and it clocked pretty well but it could not handle the heat very well and crash ..... now that i have the ud5 with the latest bios it is pretty good... stable as hell and handles the heat very well.

i am supper happy with it and i only paid 75 pounds for it


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Yea, I have seen more good than bad with these boards myself, Both from this thread and others across the interwebs. My UD3 has been running my 955BE @ 4.2Ghz/2800 CPU-NB, 1.45Vcore and 1.40 CPU-NBVolts. It crashed a few time's trying to get the OC stable but after that it has never froze up or BSOD on me. Temps are always fine even though my living room can get to a blistering 90f (32.2c). Even though I didn't get LLC on mine (first revision UD3) I would still buy it again, only payed $90 for mine with in a month of release


----------



## paulwarden2505

Hi guys new to the forum and a new owner of a Gigabyte GA 99FXA ud7 paired with a phenom ii 1090t running stable at 3.9GHz , its great to find a place where if i have any problems i can get help on here and learn from others .


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> Hi guys new to the forum and a new owner of a Gigabyte GA 99FXA ud7 paired with a phenom ii 1090t running stable at 3.9GHz , its great to find a place where if i have any problems i can get help on here and learn from others .


Welcome.


----------



## billy66bare

Hello again, everybody!

So I've been out of the loop for a while actually enjoying playing games on my rig (as oppose to obssesing over clock speeds, and new hardware







), but alas, the bug has bitten me again. So hopefully without causing a flame war.

Have the FX series made any ground performance wise? I heard there was a patch for WIndows, and there's been a ton of BIOS updates. But I'm still not too sure I wanna drop $200 on one when an 3570k is in the same price range.

Thanks


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> Hello again, everybody!
> So I've been out of the loop for a while actually enjoying playing games on my rig (as oppose to obssesing over clock speeds, and new hardware
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), but alas, the bug has bitten me again. So hopefully without causing a flame war.
> Have the FX series made any ground performance wise? I heard there was a patch for WIndows, and there's been a ton of BIOS updates. But I'm still not too sure I wanna drop $200 on one when an 3570k is in the same price range.
> Thanks


Giving this advice based on gaming being the primary use.

Leave your CPU alone. Going FX will be like moving sideways for the most part. Unless your willing to slave over the BIOS and get a nice OC working. Then it will outperform your current CPU. Moving to Intel means ditching your spiffy UD5 too. for gaming on your 470 SLI you won't get much better performance, Your 970 should be more than capable of driving your 470's though a pleasant gaming experience.

To answer your fist question: Yes, performance is better now than on release. I have no comment or opinion on how much better it is(gatta avoid those flames).

Are you unhappy with your current rig's performance in gaming?


----------



## billy66bare

No, I'm fairly happy with it. Sometimes I wonder if the 970 isn't holding me back with the 2 470's and the 250 for Phyx. I know not a lot of game use it, but quiet a few I enjoy playing use it heavily.
I'm not too worried about loosing my UD5, I'd probably try to keep it and the 970 around for [email protected]/mumbe, etc. I just wanted to do a decent upgrade to maybe give me a few years without having to upgrade again.
You answered my question flawlessly, though. Not paying $200 for a sidegrade (at best).

Thanks!







And repped.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> No, I'm fairly happy with it. Sometimes I wonder if the 970 isn't holding me back with the 2 470's and the 250 for Phyx. I know not a lot of game use it, but quiet a few I enjoy playing use it heavily.
> I'm not too worried about loosing my UD5, I'd probably try to keep it and the 970 around for [email protected]/mumbe, etc. I just wanted to do a decent upgrade to maybe give me a few years without having to upgrade again.
> You answered my question flawlessly, though. Not paying $200 for a sidegrade (at best).
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And repped.


How closely have you monitored your CPU and GPU usage while gaming? When I got my i5 I ran a few in house tests to see how much better a CPU I had. My 955BE @ 4.0 Vs. i5 @ 4.7 in gaming. I used an EVGA SSC 460 GTX SLI(1gig cards) and a Sapphire Toxic 6950 (unlocked an massive OC) and a 1080p monitor. There were a game or two (BF3 mainly) that saw a worth while improvement but over all the playing experience was the same. PIIx4's still hold their ground very well in gaming.

My 955BE has been running at the above OC for over a year and a half 24/7 and I intend to keep gaming and running it 24/7 for 2 maybe 2 1/2 years before moving to a bigger and better system.


----------



## ebduncan

their are very few games that actually benefit greatly by having the new ivy bridges cpu's. Most of these games are stuck back in the pre-muticore era and run off a single thread.

Honestly if your looking for a better gaming experience you would best served by a GPU upgrade.

honestly though with your rig and only playing at 1080p your fine. Sometimes we all get that itch to upgrade something, but 80% of the time that upgrade is not going to make a noticeable difference.

When i went from my old [email protected] 3.6ghz to the fx [email protected] 4.5ghz+ i noticed an improvement in all areas, but i could have stuck with the 1055T. Probably would have been best to buy a good cooling device for it rather than the stock heatsink and clock it higher. Granted in a few work loads i do often, the 8120 blows the 1055T outta the water (aes encryption, zip files, encoding) In these areas it was worth the upgrade.


----------



## Wild Wally

Having a problem making changes to my RAM timings in BIOS. The PC keeps freezing. Is anyone else experiencing this? This has happened before with other BIOS revisions.

GA-990FXA-UD7 with FX-8150, 2x8 GB GSkill Ripjaws 14900CL9, XFX HD6950, BIOS rev 10b.

Thanks in advance,

WW


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> How closely have you monitored your CPU and GPU usage while gaming? When I got my i5 I ran a few in house tests to see how much better a CPU I had. My 955BE @ 4.0 Vs. i5 @ 4.7 in gaming. I used an EVGA SSC 460 GTX SLI(1gig cards) and a Sapphire Toxic 6950 (unlocked an massive OC) and a 1080p monitor. There were a game or two (BF3 mainly) that saw a worth while improvement but over all the playing experience was the same. PIIx4's still hold their ground very well in gaming.
> My 955BE has been running at the above OC for over a year and a half 24/7 and I intend to keep gaming and running it 24/7 for 2 maybe 2 1/2 years before moving to a bigger and better system.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> their are very few games that actually benefit greatly by having the new ivy bridges cpu's. Most of these games are stuck back in the pre-muticore era and run off a single thread.
> Honestly if your looking for a better gaming experience you would best served by a GPU upgrade.
> honestly though with your rig and only playing at 1080p your fine. Sometimes we all get that itch to upgrade something, but 80% of the time that upgrade is not going to make a noticeable difference.
> When i went from my old [email protected] 3.6ghz to the fx [email protected] 4.5ghz+ i noticed an improvement in all areas, but i could have stuck with the 1055T. Probably would have been best to buy a good cooling device for it rather than the stock heatsink and clock it higher. Granted in a few work loads i do often, the 8120 blows the 1055T outta the water (aes encryption, zip files, encoding) In these areas it was worth the upgrade.


I figured. I just had to back my 970 down from 4.2 to 4.0 because it became unstable, to tell the truth. I know that 200Mhz makes no noticable difference unless I push the 470's towards 1800 memory, but it hurts mah pride! lol I'll probably just stick it out for another generation or two.

Thanks, gentlemen!


----------



## Frietpan

the most problems i have with my 965 @ 3.8Ghz is that games like gta4 / WoW / Live For Speed really dont run that well when theres much happening on the screen, but on the other hand it plays bf3 at high/ultra. its still a good cpu but just not fast enough for cpu intensive games. i always had amd computers but really to upgrade at this time you cant go around intel. even if it means rebuilding you whole system. just my 2c

my friend has a i7 and a slower videocard than me but gets more fps all the time.
meaning my cpu is bottlenecking me.
no way a 6750 beats my 6970....
so are you sure it can handle 470Sli?? in cpu intensive games? dont think so.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frietpan*
> 
> the most problems i have with my 965 @ 3.8Ghz is that games like gta4 / WoW / Live For Speed really dont run that well when theres much happening on the screen, but on the other hand it plays bf3 at high/ultra. its still a good cpu but just not fast enough for cpu intensive games. i always had amd computers but really to upgrade at this time you cant go around intel. even if it means rebuilding you whole system. just my 2c
> my friend has a i7 and a slower videocard than me but gets more fps all the time.
> meaning my cpu is bottlenecking me.
> no way a 6750 beats my 6970....
> so are you sure it can handle 470Sli?? in cpu intensive games? dont think so.


In Cata I would run dual client wow on a single 460 GTX at ultra, FPS never dipped.

I know my 955 can put two 460's to full load "when needed" in BF3.

as for your last bit, User error maybe? do you have proper driver's? are you sure your OC is stable?


----------



## billy66bare

I can play GTA IV flawlessly with maxed settings. lol The only game I've seen a small problem was Arkham City during the Penguin battle, and I've seen a couple of people with 2500k's and 470's say the same thing.


----------



## Frietpan

trust me its stable even at 4Ghz, i have this cpu for 4 years now. in 4 diffrent motherboards i know it inside out








overal in wow my fps is 50~100 fps, but a big fight in a battleground or something and im down to 25fps, i use the auto settings from wow,
my gpu usage in bf3 is 99% but in wow in a battleground its using like 35%
edit: even 1on1 in warsong gulch is 30% usage not low fps but it isnt using the card at its potential -.- il post a screen tommorow

@above what resolution with gta4 and car intensity and stuff (the sliders)
and what fps you get? i mean 45 fps or less isnt smooth to me. and not drop below that 45


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> Having a problem making changes to my RAM timings in BIOS. The PC keeps freezing. Is anyone else experiencing this? This has happened before with other BIOS revisions.
> GA-990FXA-UD7 with FX-8150, 2x8 GB GSkill Ripjaws 14900CL9, XFX HD6950, BIOS rev 10b.
> Thanks in advance,
> WW


Freezing is usually a lack of Dram Voltage, especially if your tightening. It's also not uncommon to require more than manufactures specified voltage on the AMD platform as they rate Dram Voltage for Intel which uses less. This would apply even for stock timings and freq. Usually an additional .05 to .1v will do the trick for stock.


----------



## Medvednic

I have a question regarding Gigabytes note on their site, they say that "For optimum performance, if only one PCI Express graphics card is to be installed, be sure to install it in the PCIEX16_1 slot", in the future if I will upgrade my GPU than I would have to install it in PCIEX16_2 due to the case space limitations (taking in mind that newer GPUS are lengthier from their predecessors), does it really make any difference in performance?


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frietpan*
> 
> trust me its stable even at 4Ghz, i have this cpu for 4 years now. in 4 diffrent motherboards i know it inside out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> overal in wow my fps is 50~100 fps, but a big fight in a battleground or something and im down to 25fps, i use the auto settings from wow,
> my gpu usage in bf3 is 99% but in wow in a battleground its using like 35%
> edit: even 1on1 in warsong gulch is 30% usage not low fps but it isnt using the card at its potential -.- il post a screen tommorow
> @above what resolution with gta4 and car intensity and stuff (the sliders)
> and what fps you get? i mean 45 fps or less isnt smooth to me. and not drop below that 45


I'm running Cata @ 1080p on ultra with AF16x and AA x4. No major dips in BG's.
But as you say, my GPU is not always fully used, but WoW always has been very CPU intensive.
Also, make sure you use the command:
processAffinityMask "15"
That should help, a bit at least.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I'm running Cata @ 1080p on ultra with AF16x and AA x4. No major dips in BG's.
> But as you say, my GPU is not always fully used, but WoW always has been very CPU intensive.
> Also, make sure you use the command:
> processAffinityMask "15"
> That should help, a bit at least.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Frietpan*
> 
> trust me its stable even at 4Ghz, i have this cpu for 4 years now. in 4 diffrent motherboards i know it inside out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> overal in wow my fps is 50~100 fps, but a big fight in a battleground or something and im down to 25fps, i use the auto settings from wow,
> my gpu usage in bf3 is 99% but in wow in a battleground its using like 35%
> edit: even 1on1 in warsong gulch is 30% usage not low fps but it isnt using the card at its potential -.- il post a screen tommorow
> @above what resolution with gta4 and car intensity and stuff (the sliders)
> and what fps you get? i mean 45 fps or less isnt smooth to me. and not drop below that 45


@Frietpan I mostly did PVP and Raid healing, I would have been totally disgusted with anything less than around the mid 50's constantly.

I think your running a bunch of CPU intensive "Add-on's". Wow with just a few light or no addon's is a total joke. My brother had this problem back in cata. He was running Carbonite, AH, DPS metter(full data logging on), Healbot, Custom UI overlay and every other "raiding essential" he felt he "needed". At the lowest of low settings he would pull 15-20 FPS durring raid's and BG's with high latency.

He could have also chose to lighten the addon load and play at high video settings with some eye candy on and still get very playable FPS by my picky standerds. He was running a core2duo OC'ed and a AMD 65XX GPU(I think on the GPU part...) My 2 cents.


----------



## billy66bare

Haven't played in a while, The car intensity is over half I remember right, and it stays in the 40's IIRC. That's at 1920x1080.


----------



## bajer29

Anyone know if the CM V6 GT will fit on the UD3? I have some G. Skill Ripjaws in channels 1 and 2 in the ram slots. Just ordered this monster and realized that it might not fit.


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Anyone know if the CM V6 GT will fit on the UD3? I have some G. Skill Ripjaws in channels 1 and 2 in the ram slots. Just ordered this monster and realized that it might not fit.


They should fit. ripjaws aren't as tall as Flares I use.

I'm having issues tuning any kind of voltage will cause the UD7 to either no boot, Or I 'll get in to windows and the Screen go's black after a couple minutes idle, and the GPU's fan go's up.

it's only doing it when I adjust voltage on the board.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Anyone know if the CM V6 GT will fit on the UD3? I have some G. Skill Ripjaws in channels 1 and 2 in the ram slots. Just ordered this monster and realized that it might not fit.


It won't have any problems BECAUSE your sticks should be in the 1 and 3 slots. On the UD3 the socket layout is 4/3/2/1 not 1/2/3/4.


----------



## bajer29

Yeah, that's what I meant.


----------



## MrHawkz

Greetings mates! Me and one of my pals are currently building his system.

His motherboard is the UD3 version. We are not sure if we need to update the BIOS or not (I would prefer not to, rather later in Windows).

On the box there is a decently sized red sticker saying "New AM3+ CPU BIOS Installed". Does this mean I can just continue with the build and slob the CPU right in there or do I have to do some other stuff first? This is my 5th build and the processor is the FX 4170


----------



## bajer29

I just finished a build with a FX 4170. You should be fine, but I would update to latest BIOS soon after Windows install.


----------



## MrHawkz

Thanks, I'll go ahead with the build then! It is turning out great!


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHawkz*
> 
> Thanks, I'll go ahead with the build then! It is turning out great!


I've been very pleased with it's gaming performance. Good luck


----------



## MrHawkz

New question! Shall I install the GPU in the PCI-e 16x 1 or 2? Is it just what I prefer or do I have to have it a certain place for bandwith?

Also very suprised the HD7850 only takes one six pin :L


----------



## Rezylainen

Hey guys!

Luckily, I found this thread after a ton of searching. So I'll hopefully solve my problem now!

Lately, the new Counter-Strike game named "Global Offensive" came out. They have this problem against FX CPU's that needs me to update my BIOS in order to run the game (reference: http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2876044)

I have a FX-4100 processor, and obviously you know my motherboard. I also have a Sapphire HD Radeon 7770 1GB if that matters.

I followed a guide that I found in the thread I linked, it was like this:

"If you look up your motherboard type of the Gigabyte website and at the drop down menu click "Utilities" and download Touch BIOS. This program allows you to open the BIOS update file while in windows.

Next download the update of the BIOS you want to have, extract it to where ever you will find it, I used desktop. It will put 3 files on your desktop 2 of which you will not use. The file you want look likes a blank page and should be named whatever your motherboard is called and then the update your getting.

Next go into Touch Bios and click @BIOS. then on the right side click update BIOS from file. Find the file and open it. It will warn you that your screen will freeze multiple times while updating, click ok. Once it is done updating it will prompt you to restart your computer. Do so."

I downloaded the files for my motherboard, but I got an error. I can't remember the error. I thought this was because I'm running 64bit.

I JUST REALIZED ONE THING!
What is rev 1.0 rev 1.1 rev 1.2? Can anyone explain this? How do I know which one that is the correct one for my computer?

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3996#bios
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894#bios
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4001&dl=1#bios

I guess I need one of these.. But which one?


----------



## truckerguy

What is rev 1.0 rev 1.1 rev 1.2. Is eveerything the manufacture makes a change to a model they make a diffrent reversion. You can find yours on your motherboard it will be printed on it.


----------



## ebduncan

or just use gigabytes @bios program and automatically update your bios from windows.....


----------



## tuso

hi friends, thx for your help. Here my configuration:

AMD Phenom 955 BE @ 4.2Ghz
Vcore: 1.425v
NB: 2870 mhz
HT: 2049 mhz
RAM : 1366 mhz

*CPU-Z.*


*SUPER Pi MOD 1.5.*


*AIDA 64 - Benchmark cache and memory,*


----------



## bajer29

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrHawkz*
> 
> New question! Shall I install the GPU in the PCI-e 16x 1 or 2? Is it just what I prefer or do I have to have it a certain place for bandwith?
> Also very suprised the HD7850 only takes one six pin :L


Sorry for the late response!!!

Yes, either should work. If it doesn't you'll know and it's easy to change. As for the one 6-pin connector; it depends on the version of your 7850. I need two 6-pin connectors for mine


----------



## MrHawkz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bajer29*
> 
> Sorry for the late response!!!
> Yes, either should work. If it doesn't you'll know and it's easy to change. As for the one 6-pin connector; it depends on the version of your 7850. I need two 6-pin connectors for mine


It works fine in the upper slot







, the A50 is supriseingly quiet to!


Although I am noticing the A50 is a little crooked, it is solidly mounted, so I guess it'll do :3 There is also plenty of room for another GPU. The only negative thing about mobo is non-UEFI interface :L

FPS in TF2 (Maxed) is 200. FPS in MC (Maxed) is 250+. ArmA 2 (Maxed) 60 FPS. WoW (Maxed) 75 FPS.

There was plenty of room for the XMS3 memory, and it was simple to plug in the front stuffz, SATAs and USBs.

In the end he is very satisfied, he is already thinking about adding more fans, memory card reader and that kind of stuff C:


----------



## Purlpo

Hello.

Does anyone have any good suggestions for what sound card to use on the UD5 version (GA-990FXA-UD5)?

I tried an HT OMEGA Claro II, but it has horrible sound desync and it keeps crashing my programs, so I'm sending it back.

I was thinking of the ASUS Xonar Essence STX, but I'm not sure if it will fit... (theres a heatsink in the way; or it looks like it).

Thanks!


----------



## MadGoat

New Bios For SSD compatibility... (wonder about performance as well?)

I Will be trying this out

For all 1.0, 1.1 & 1.2

1.2 bios is FEc however.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Purlpo*
> 
> Hello.
> Does anyone have any good suggestions for what sound card to use on the UD5 version (GA-990FXA-UD5)?
> I tried an HT OMEGA Claro II, but it has horrible sound desync and it keeps crashing my programs, so I'm sending it back.
> I was thinking of the ASUS Xonar Essence STX, but I'm not sure if it will fit... (theres a heatsink in the way; or it looks like it).
> Thanks!


What do you plan to do with said sound card? 99% of the time they are a waste of time and money. On board sound is leaps and bounds ahead of what it used to be.


----------



## steezebe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Purlpo*
> 
> Hello.
> Does anyone have any good suggestions for what sound card to use on the UD5 version (GA-990FXA-UD5)?
> I tried an HT OMEGA Claro II, but it has horrible sound desync and it keeps crashing my programs, so I'm sending it back.
> I was thinking of the ASUS Xonar Essence STX, but I'm not sure if it will fit... (theres a heatsink in the way; or it looks like it).
> Thanks!


I use the Claro Halo XT in the PCI slot at the bottom I have two graphics cards taking up the x16 slots and a wireless card in the x1 slot, so the expansion slots are completely full but they fit perfectly.

The Xonar Essence also may not fit in the x1 slot on the top because of the heat spreaders, so you would have to put it in another slot. that would be tight if you have two graphics cards, especially if they're watercooled.


----------



## Purlpo

The ht omega i have is a HUUUUGE improvement over the onboard audio; at least with the headphones i have (audio technica m50s). the problem i have with it is that it seems to have a weird latency issue where the visuals and the audio dont sync up... and it crashes frequently, playing an audio loop until i disable it through device manager. but otherwise it has excellent sound quality by my standards.

I didnt know i could put pci-e x1 cards into the pci-e x16 slots. thanks for letting me know that. i do have 2 videocards but i think i can fit it in anyway. cheers.


----------



## MadGoat

sound cards with decent onboard amps are really the only thing better than a decent motherboard audio chip now a days...

even then, its mostly only realized with headphones (or anything else that doesn't have it's own amp)...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> sound cards with decent onboard amps are really the only thing better than a decent motherboard audio chip now a days...
> even then, its mostly only realized with headphones (or anything else that doesn't have it's own amp)...


QFT.


----------



## ebduncan

"New Bios For SSD compatibility... (wonder about performance as well?)

I Will be trying this out

For all 1.0, 1.1 & 1.2

1.2 bios is FEc however."

ya i saw that the other-day. I might give it a try, i just try and stay away from beta bios.


----------



## Mokona512

would also be interested in finding more about the F9b bios, mainly what SSD's did they add support for and did they improve the performance on anything related to SSD's.

Still on the F5 bios on my UD3 because F6 and F7 seems to be a bit unstable for me.

So far with the newer bios and my Phenom II x6 1075t, I frequently get overclocking failed errors which reverts the CPU to the auto settings.

but with the F5 bios, it is completely stable (did 2 days of prime95 and it was stable)

my current overclock with the F5 bios

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2492137


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> would also be interested in finding more about the F9b bios, mainly what SSD's did they add support for and did they improve the performance on anything related to SSD's.
> 
> Still on the F5 bios on my UD3 because F6 and F7 seems to be a bit unstable for me.
> 
> So far with the newer bios and my Phenom II x6 1075t, I frequently get overclocking failed errors which reverts the CPU to the auto settings.
> 
> but with the F5 bios, it is completely stable (did 2 days of prime95 and it was stable)
> 
> my current overclock with the F5 bios
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2492137


I had the same experience with my FX processor. With the early f6-f7 bios. I went back to F5 and was happy. I am now running F9 which seems to be a-lot like F5 in terms of stability and overclocking. F5 is still the overclocking champion thus far, then again its still summer time here, haven't really given F9 the chance at lower temps either.

Maybe i will chuck my antec 920 radiator in a bucket of ice water and do some testing.


----------



## Purlpo

A follow up to my previous post: I managed to install the ASUS essence stx sound card in one of the vacant PCI-E X16 slots. The space got a little bit tight; The fans from one of my video cards was making contact with the sound card at first, so I had to soften up the screw on the sound card to make sure it didn't touch the video card. Aside from that, everything works perfectly. Thanks for the help.


----------



## rawsteel

I did some Undervolting on my CPU and set it to 1.3125 but hwmonitor is reporting that the max voltage it reaches is 1.38 causing temp spikes. why am i getting Vgain and not Vdroop when i have no LLC


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel*
> 
> I did some Undervolting on my CPU and set it to 1.3125 but hwmonitor is reporting that the max voltage it reaches is 1.38 causing temp spikes. why am i getting Vgain and not Vdroop when i have no LLC


do you have turbo core on? Turbo core will boost the voltage when it does to the higher pstate.


----------



## ted86

Finally got my rig setup and programs installed and I love my UD3!

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2494141

Edit: Anyone else having issues with the sound quality being below average? I've got the latest sound drivers but my old Asus mobo seemed to have better sound.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ted86*
> 
> Finally got my rig setup and programs installed and I love my UD3!
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2494141
> Edit: Anyone else having issues with the sound quality being below average? I've got the latest sound drivers but my old Asus mobo seemed to have better sound.


Gratz.


----------



## ted86

Thanks. Fixed my sound problems. EasyTune 6 was the culprit. >_< Uninstalled it and no more sound problems.


----------



## steezebe

I have a lil concern with updating my bios. I started a bios thread for the mobo HERE so as not to litter up the bios conversations here, so if any of you guys had any insight on my issue it would be appreciated. I just don't want to re-overclock if the new bios doesn't offer me anything i need...


----------



## Mokona512

If you are using a phenom II

I was wondering with the 990fxa-ud3, has anyone tried running 4 memory sticks at DDR3 1600, and if so, what NB voltage and how much over stock did you need to push the memory voltages to get it stable?


----------



## Seanay00

Ive got a mates computer that he just got and im trying to get a bit of an overclock on it. I am usually and intel cpu, asus motherboard guy and all this is new to me I just put some new ram in it cause it had 4 sticks of kingston 1333 in it.
CPU - 1090T
MB - Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
RAM - Gskill Ripjaws x 8gb 1866

I cant get the ram to run at it's rated speed and would like to get the 1090T running a bit harder. Any help would be appreciated


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Ive got a mates computer that he just got and im trying to get a bit of an overclock on it. I am usually and intel cpu, asus motherboard guy and all this is new to me I just put some new ram in it cause it had 4 sticks of kingston 1333 in it.
> CPU - 1090T
> MB - Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
> RAM - Gskill Ripjaws x 8gb 1866
> 
> I cant get the ram to run at it's rated speed and would like to get the 1090T running a bit harder. Any help would be appreciated


did you disable c1e in bios?

Also keep in mind that anything over DDR3 1333 is an overclock with thuban. You might have to increase the north bridge voltage.


----------



## MadGoat

thuban default memory speed is 1600...

1866 generally gives more trouble than its worth... stick close to 1600 with a decent timing (9-9-9-24 1t if you have 2 sticks or 2t if you have 4)


----------



## ebduncan

No thubans default memory speed is 1333mhz.

look it up....

anyways, most people don't have a problem running higher memory speed. However anything over ddr3 1333mhz is considered a overclock.


----------



## truckerguy

the default on AM3 and AM3+ boards is 1333Mhz a Thubans IMC (Internal Menory Contoller) is set at 1600Mhz they can be OC to 1866Mhz and on rare cases above


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> No thubans default memory speed is 1333mhz.
> look it up....
> anyways, most people don't have a problem running higher memory speed. However anything over ddr3 1333mhz is considered a overclock.


word...


----------



## Seanay00

Ok cool. I have the cpu at 3.6ghz the ram at 1800mhz but ive left most of the settings on auto. Like i said this is all new so i dont wanna stuff nethn up. Pretty sure the ram timings r 11,11,11,28 on auto. They seem slow to me??


----------



## Seanay00

and what voltage and freq should i have the NB at??


----------



## Seanay00

also the cpu volts are at 1.45v @ 3.6ghz. Is that high??


----------



## Subvibes

Gigabyte 990FXA UD3 AM3 +

Hello there,

I hope I'm not being a pain in the ass but I watched Madgoats boot-time video on YouTube and needed some advice...

My setup, detailed below, is stock (for now) except the ram which is @ 1600...

I wrote this to Gigabyte to no help from them...

Hello I have installed all the correct drivers from Gigabyte website, and I am experiencing SLOW BOOT TIME.

All hardware is working correctly on my GIGABYTE GA-880GM-USB3, which boots from beep in 15secs. I upgraded my motherboard so I can run SLI Graphics cards.

This new motherboard takes 45secs, and hangs for nearly 5secs before displaying LOADING OPERATING SYSTEM during boot.

I notice in the video, Madgoat had Bios version F5 - has anyone had this problem with the F8?

It's so frustrating to have my favorite setup boot so slow.

MY SETUP...

NVIDIA GTX560 Ti SLI - Acer HN274HB 120hz

CPU Brand : AMD Model : phenom x4 965 BE

Operation System : Win 7 64-bit

Memory Brand : Patriot

Memory Size : 12Gb

Power Supply : 800 W

Cheers! And thank you for reading this...


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Gigabyte 990FXA UD3 AM3 +
> 
> Hello there,
> 
> I hope I'm not being a pain in the ass but I watched Madgoats boot-time video on YouTube and needed some advice...
> 
> My setup, detailed below, is stock (for now) except the ram which is @ 1600...
> 
> I wrote this to Gigabyte to no help from them...
> 
> Hello I have installed all the correct drivers from Gigabyte website, and I am experiencing SLOW BOOT TIME.
> 
> All hardware is working correctly on my GIGABYTE GA-880GM-USB3, which boots from beep in 15secs. I upgraded my motherboard so I can run SLI Graphics cards.
> 
> This new motherboard takes 45secs, and hangs for nearly 5secs before displaying LOADING OPERATING SYSTEM during boot.
> 
> I notice in the video, Madgoat had Bios version F5 - has anyone had this problem with the F8?
> 
> It's so frustrating to have my favorite setup boot so slow.
> 
> MY SETUP...
> 
> NVIDIA GTX560 Ti SLI - Acer HN274HB 120hz
> 
> CPU Brand : AMD Model : phenom x4 965 BE
> 
> Operation System : Win 7 64-bit
> 
> Memory Brand : Patriot
> 
> Memory Size : 12Gb
> 
> Power Supply : 800 W
> 
> Cheers! And thank you for reading this... [/QUOTE
> 
> gigabyte earlier bios had issues with boot up. They fixed this issue in one of the newer bios. I don't know exactly what bios fixed this issue, but its been fixed.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> Gigabyte 990FXA UD3 AM3 +
> Hello there,
> I hope I'm not being a pain in the ass but I watched Madgoats boot-time video on YouTube and needed some advice...
> My setup, detailed below, is stock (for now) except the ram which is @ 1600...
> I wrote this to Gigabyte to no help from them...
> Hello I have installed all the correct drivers from Gigabyte website, and I am experiencing SLOW BOOT TIME.
> All hardware is working correctly on my GIGABYTE GA-880GM-USB3, which boots from beep in 15secs. I upgraded my motherboard so I can run SLI Graphics cards.
> This new motherboard takes 45secs, and hangs for nearly 5secs before displaying LOADING OPERATING SYSTEM during boot.
> I notice in the video, Madgoat had Bios version F5 - has anyone had this problem with the F8?
> It's so frustrating to have my favorite setup boot so slow.
> MY SETUP...
> NVIDIA GTX560 Ti SLI - Acer HN274HB 120hz
> CPU Brand : AMD Model : phenom x4 965 BE
> Operation System : Win 7 64-bit
> Memory Brand : Patriot
> Memory Size : 12Gb
> Power Supply : 800 W
> Cheers! And thank you for reading this...


For my UD3/955BE anything past F4 BIOS is crap, unstable and long boot times. The BIOS on these boards is a YMMV. I would try using different BIOS. is AHCI enabled?


----------



## CyberDemonz101

OK I have a question about OCing the GA990fxa-ud3 board I already got my 1100t to 4.0 stable and I have 16 gigs ram of Kingston Hyper-X ddr3 4x4 gigs 1600 1.65v ram. ATM all the rest of the board is at auto except the cpu. What would be a good safe stable settings for this. I am new to this and unfamiliar with how to. I have read the guides but still way over my head. I now the NB can go as high as 3000 but is it really necessary?

I was wondering if someone else my have the same setup and has found a good setting for it? I would prefer it this way then me blindly trying to find the correct one through bad trial and error. And could point out better timmings for the ram I have too CPU-Z is showing 10-10-10-26 T2 and have no idea why when they are 9-9-9-27 T2

Edit:

Just noticed CPU-Z is showing NB running at 2170 by itself.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberDemonz101*
> 
> OK I have a question about OCing the GA990fxa-ud3 board I already got my 1100t to 4.0 stable and I have 16 gigs ram of Kingston Hyper-X ddr3 4x4 gigs 1600 1.65v ram. ATM all the rest of the board is at auto except the cpu. What would be a good safe stable settings for this. I am new to this and unfamiliar with how to. I have read the guides but still way over my head. I now the NB can go as high as 3000 but is it really necessary?
> I was wondering if someone else my have the same setup and has found a good setting for it? I would prefer it this way then me blindly trying to find the correct one through bad trial and error. And could point out better timmings for the ram I have too CPU-Z is showing 10-10-10-26 T2 and have no idea why when they are 9-9-9-27 T2
> Edit:
> Just noticed CPU-Z is showing NB running at 2170 by itself.


First you need to manually set everything in the BIOS to "stock" level's. Once that is done you can start overclocking.

For air cooling 4.0 is about it. You might be able to get past 4.0 but watch out, performance may actually lower. Another thing of caution is the IMC. Phenom II's have weak IMC's. Thuban's are better than denab's but the IMC is still weak. Not to mention your running all 4 DIMM's of RAM. Long story short, there are no magic settings. You have little choice but to keep trying settings.

If I where you after setting everything to stock I would bump your multi back up for 4.0Ghz clock speed, then bump the CPU-NB freq up to 2600-2800(Helps improve performance and stability alot).
Once you can pas a proper stress test then I would bump the ram up from stock settings. Don't be shocked if OC'ing your RAM is in vain. Little real world performance gains will be noticed, if any at all.


----------



## Subvibes

YMMV is correct, but not necessarily satisfactory...
Yes - definitely have AHCI enabled ;-)

I'm finding mixed responses here too... Recent BIOS fixes it, yet, anything past F4 is slow.

I'll go through each BIOS update and once I find the best outcome, I'll reply here, then start the OC process.

Cheers!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> YMMV is correct, but not necessarily satisfactory...
> Yes - definitely have AHCI enabled ;-)
> I'm finding mixed responses here too... Recent BIOS fixes it, yet, anything past F4 is slow.
> I'll go through each BIOS update and once I find the best outcome, I'll reply here, then start the OC process.
> Cheers!


From my experiance the only problem these boards have is the BIOS. Once you find the magic version they are pretty slick.


----------



## Subvibes

Cheers Mate. I appreciate your hope and everyone's help.
I'll have a play with various versions and report back.


----------



## Mokona512

Using my 990FXA-UD3 I managed to get 12GB of RAM 2X2 and 2X4 sticks of RAM to run at DDR3 1600 speeds but I could not use 7-8-7-24 2T, instead I had to use 8-8-8-29 2T speeds (no amount of voltage would bring it to 7-8-7-24

here are my current specs

CPU Properties:
CPU Type HexaCore AMD Phenom II X6 1075T
CPU Alias Thuban
CPU Stepping PH-E0
Engineering Sample No
CPUID CPU Name AMD Phenom(tm) II X6 1075T Processor
CPUID Revision 00100FA0h
CPU VID 1.3000 V
North Bridge VID 1.1500 V

CPU Speed:
CPU Clock 4003.8 MHz (original: 3500 MHz, overclock: 14%)
CPU Multiplier 14x
CPU FSB 286.0 MHz (original: 200 MHz, overclock: 43%)
HyperTransport Clock 2287.9 MHz
North Bridge Clock 2573.9 MHz
Memory Bus 762.6 MHz
DRAM:FSB Ratio 16:6

CPU Cache:
L1 Code Cache 64 KB per core
L1 Data Cache 64 KB per core
L2 Cache 512 KB per core (On-Die, ECC, Full-Speed)
L3 Cache 6 MB (On-Die, ECC, NB-Speed)

Motherboard Properties:
Motherboard Name Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 (1 PCI, 2 PCI-E x1, 4 PCI-E x16, 4 DDR3 DIMM, Audio, Gigabit LAN, IEEE-1394)

Chipset Properties:
Motherboard Chipset AMD 990FX, AMD K10
Memory Timings 8-8-8-29 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS)
Command Rate (CR) 2T
DIMM1: G Skill F3-17000CL11-4GBXL 4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)
DIMM2: G Skill F3-17000CL11-4GBXL 4 GB DDR3-1600 DDR3 SDRAM (10-10-10-27 @ 761 MHz) (9-9-9-24 @ 685 MHz) (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-19 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-16 @ 457 MHz)
DIMM3: G Skill F3-12800CL7-2GBRM 2 GB DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-20 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-17 @ 457 MHz)
DIMM4: G Skill F3-12800CL7-2GBRM 2 GB DDR3-1333 DDR3 SDRAM (8-8-8-22 @ 609 MHz) (7-7-7-20 @ 533 MHz) (6-6-6-17 @ 457 MHz)

With my full overclock, the memory is a little under 1600 speeds but it is completely stable at the full 1600 speeds.

CPU voltage is at 1.475V
memory voltage is set to 1.65V
NB voltage is set to 1.24V

cool n quiet, and the turbo boost crap are both disabled.

other than the full screen logo being disabled, virtualization being enabled, and SATA being set to AHCI,and my overclocks, everything else is stock


----------



## Subvibes

That's excellent... 

What Bios version are you on?
I'm trying to get mine to boot under 40secs...
Hardware used to boot in 15Secs using my old board.
Cheers.


----------



## Mokona512

I am currently using the F5 bios, the ones after F5, won't let me overclock, even the smallest overclock (while the stability doesn't change, every 1-2 restarts, it will consider the overclock as failed and revert to the defaults, requiring me to enter all overclock settings again.


----------



## GoriLLakoS

Sorry for the ressurection but the owners of *Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5* you have the rev1.0 or the rev1.1 ?


----------



## MadGoat

latest bios actually solved some usb and esata issues for me and didnt sacrifice oc at all... furthermore boot is faster by like a whopping 1sec.

i feel the recent bioses have the kinks worked out...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> latest bios actually solved some usb and esata issues for me and didnt sacrifice oc at all... furthermore boot is faster by like a whopping 1sec.
> i feel the recent bioses have the kinks worked out...


Might be time to move on from my magical f4 BIOS lol


----------



## Subvibes

I'm gonna play with AMD Overdrive..

This rebooting all the time is driving me crazy.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> I'm gonna play with AMD Overdrive..
> This rebooting all the time is driving me crazy.


Waste of time. Overclocking via software is highly unstable. Best results will be done through the BIOS.


----------



## Subvibes

Nice one. VERY HAPPY NOW...
The 40secs Boot-Time WAS driving me crazy... I've got it down to 26 Secs from beep to sign-in .. so thanks for all your help!

I have faced my fear of rebooting and the [F9b] BIOS confirms I have increased Phenom X4 965 BE to X19 multiplier.. (3.825Ghz) @ stock volts.
12Gb Patriot RAM [3 x 4Gb) is now 1600Mhz (9 9 9 24 @ 1.65v) & stable

CPU temp is never over 67C under AMD Overdrive stability test. (I got an extra case-fan for my ThermalTake box today because Australia is HOT all year-round)
So that's 4 case fans - all blowing the air OUT and all cool air entering front of case... and I have a good CPU heatsink too..

My SSD is due an upgrade soon - It's a Kingston V200+ 240GB SATA3 - (but I want to get the new Samsung 240Gb soon)

I scored X3229 in 3D Mark 11 Advanced Edition with 2x GTX560Ti - 1Gb - in SLI today too (OC'd to 1Ghz), with GPU's temps never going over 83C

Does anyone have any last suggestions for me?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> Nice one. VERY HAPPY NOW...
> The 40secs Boot-Time WAS driving me crazy... I've got it down to 26 Secs from beep to sign-in .. so thanks for all your help!
> I have faced my fear of rebooting and the [F9b] BIOS confirms I have increased Phenom X4 965 BE to X19 multiplier.. (3.825Ghz) @ stock volts.
> 12Gb Patriot RAM [3 x 4Gb) is now 1600Mhz (9 9 9 24 @ 1.65v) & stable
> CPU temp is never over 67C under AMD Overdrive stability test. (I got an extra case-fan for my ThermalTake box today because Australia is HOT all year-round)
> So that's 4 case fans - all blowing the air OUT and all cool air entering front of case... and I have a good CPU heatsink too..
> My SSD is due an upgrade soon - It's a Kingston V200+ 240GB SATA3 - (but I want to get the new Samsung 240Gb soon)
> I scored X3229 in 3D Mark 11 Advanced Edition with 2x GTX560Ti - 1Gb - in SLI today too (OC'd to 1Ghz), with GPU's temps never going over 83C
> Does anyone have any last suggestions for me?


Your running your CPU hot. 62c maximum, other than that good job


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Your running your CPU hot. 62c maximum, other than that good job


wrong, anything past 63 degrees will get unstable pretty fast. if its stable under ~73 degrees, its not harmfull for your system.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> wrong, anything past 63 degrees will get unstable pretty fast. if its stable under ~73 degrees, its not harmfull for your system.


no. no Phenom II can take temps of up to 72c. Please post some proof..

Here is another link.


----------



## MadGoat

they can and will withstand temp up to around 70c... ive accidently tested this for over 2 months before...

however, this was on a stocker machine that didnt know an OC.

when it comes to OC'ing though, phenomII's start to loose their will to live at OC once 55c is reached. Its a fairly known temperature to try and stay at of below.

I've personally felt this ten fold with thuban chips. I dont know if its the tweaked memory controller or what... but once you hit 55c... the chip makes your OCing life hell...

keep it cool,
MG


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> they can and will withstand temp up to around 70c... ive accidently tested this for over 2 months before...
> however, this was on a stocker machine that didnt know an OC.
> when it comes to OC'ing though, phenomII's start to loose their will to live at OC once 55c is reached. Its a fairly known temperature to try and stay at of below.
> I've personally felt this ten fold with thuban chips. I dont know if its the tweaked memory controller or what... but once you hit 55c... the chip makes your OCing life hell...
> keep it cool,
> MG


Been my experience with Phenom II's regarding 55c and stability. Will the chip burst into flame's if ran past 62c? Probably not, its however not recomended by anyone to get that high on a phenom II(72c).


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Been my experience with Phenom II's regarding 55c and stability. Will the chip burst into flame's if ran past 62c? Probably not, its however not recomended by anyone to get that high on a phenom II(72c).


+1 truth

lol @ my avatar... something got its wires crossed...


----------



## Subvibes

Okay. You Guys are awesome.
I know Australia is probably the worst place to OC because of Ambient Temps so I've wound the Multiplier back a bit, and I'll be happy to leave it Maxing at 57C @ stock Volts (3.598Ghz is still better than 3.4Ghz)
I may invest in a Water-Cooled, Global-Warming-Planet-Proof pipe, as Summer gets closer...
Cheers KhaoticKomputing, and MadGoat.
If you were here, I'd buy you a beer.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> Okay. You Guys are awesome.
> I know Australia is probably the worst place to OC because of Ambient Temps so I've wound the Multiplier back a bit, and I'll be happy to leave it Maxing at 57C @ stock Volts (3.598Ghz is still better than 3.4Ghz)
> I may invest in a Water-Cooled, Global-Warming-Planet-Proof pipe, as Summer gets closer...
> Cheers KhaoticKomputing, and MadGoat.
> If you were here, I'd buy you a beer.


I have a no A/C policy and it get up to 95-105f ambient temps with ease. I have my UD3/955BE running 4.0Ghz/2800CPU-NB @1.450Vcore/1.30CPU-NB Volts. I use a CoolerMaster Hyper 212+ with 2x PWM blademaster fans(using PWM). Temp's stay below 55c on prime95/stress testing. Gaming for hours on end (BF3-Skyrim) net's peak temps in mid to upper 40's.

In the same kind of hot temps I also run an i5 2500k @ 4.7Ghz on air with ease(Silver Arrow). All you need is a decent quality case, quality cooler and proper fan selection and set up. You'll be overclocking in no time. Water is a good option too, but very costly.


----------



## JiMmYMINI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> Okay. You Guys are awesome.
> I know Australia is probably the worst place to OC because of Ambient Temps so I've wound the Multiplier back a bit, and I'll be happy to leave it Maxing at 57C @ stock Volts (3.598Ghz is still better than 3.4Ghz)
> I may invest in a Water-Cooled, Global-Warming-Planet-Proof pipe, as Summer gets closer...
> Cheers KhaoticKomputing, and MadGoat.
> If you were here, I'd buy you a beer.


I live in Australia also bud, I just invested into a water cooler (corsair h80) in preparation for our summer. Don't stick with stock coolers if your overclocking, I got a 20c drop in temps from my h80 over stock . They are about $130 here locally.


----------



## Subvibes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JiMmYMINI*
> 
> I live in Australia also bud, I just invested into a water cooler (corsair h80) in preparation for our summer. Don't stick with stock coolers if your overclocking, I got a 20c drop in temps from my h80 over stock . They are about $130 here locally.


Niiice... Corsair h80 it will be. - $132 aint bad...
http://www.staticice.com.au/cgi-bin/search.cgi?q=corsair%20h80&spos=5

Cheers Bud.


----------



## JiMmYMINI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> Niiice... Corsair h80 it will be. - $132 aint bad...
> http://www.staticice.com.au/cgi-bin/search.cgi?q=corsair%20h80&spos=5
> Cheers Bud.


Just make sure your case will allow for the radiator , it needs to be able to fit a rear 120mm fan. . What sort of case do you have?


----------



## Seanay00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> Niiice... Corsair h80 it will be. - $132 aint bad...
> http://www.staticice.com.au/cgi-bin/search.cgi?q=corsair%20h80&spos=5
> Cheers Bud.


Spend the extra $20 and get the H100 if you can fit it. My i7 950 @4.15ghz gets to around 65degrees during summer here in brisbane. So if u can afford it get it


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> no. no Phenom II can take temps of up to 72c. Please post some proof..
> Here is another link.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/3120#post_17211177

You even said to that post that you were well known of this fact on the forum









and do you think that a stock amd cooler can hold a cpu stock under 55 degrees in a room with ~25 degrees ambient?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/3120#post_17211177
> You even said to that post that you were well known of this fact on the forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and do you think that a stock amd cooler can hold a cpu stock under 55 degrees in a room with ~25 degrees ambient?


I know that AMD released on their site the thermal limit for the chip's to be 62c. I also know that I used a stock cooler on my 955 BE and never over heated.

Your miss understadning what we use the 55c mark for. its very common for oc to become unstable after 55c.

**I'm confused, are yout talking about AMD FX(BD chips) or Phenom (Denab/Thuban)??**


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I know that AMD released on their site the thermal limit for the chip's to be 62c. I also know that I used a stock cooler on my 955 BE and never over heated.
> Your miss understadning what we use the 55c mark for. its very common for oc to become unstable after 55c.
> **I'm confused, are yout talking about AMD FX(BD chips) or Phenom (Denab/Thuban)??**


amd in general.
maybe that is our misunderstanding. I don't know which cpu he has, but in the time of writing, the BD series weren't launched yet.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Your miss understadning what we use the 55c mark for. its very common for oc to become unstable after 55c.


pretty much this. My old thuban x6 1055T would only do 3.6ghz. Temps were at around 55c. Stock Cooler. I replaced the motherboard while i was at it installed the antec 920 on it. Temps dropped could now push it to 4.2ghz. I had a good motherboard before just didn't having the cooling. Bulldozers are the same exact way! If anything they can run a bit hotter, however anything over 50c full load will degrade your overclocking experience. It is not a wall like with phenom 2. I still got my 8120 to 4.6ghz on the stock cooler temps at around 64c, so quite toasty. Swapped over to the antec doesn't go above 50c, and can run at 5.2ghz. For my ears sake i lower it to 4.9ghz daily and its relatively silent.


----------



## Subvibes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JiMmYMINI*
> 
> Just make sure your case will allow for the radiator , it needs to be able to fit a rear 120mm fan. . What sort of case do you have?


Cheers Bud.
I've got this case... With 800w PSU (blowing out the base of the case)
http://www.thermaltake.com.au/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001637

Do you think the 100 model will fit it?


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> Cheers Bud.
> I've got this case... With 800w PSU (blowing out the base of the case)
> http://www.thermaltake.com.au/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001637
> Do you think the 100 model will fit it?


I've got a 100 in a similar case, mounted at the top. The 100 takes two 120 mm fans so you should have enough room there. The key is the hoses are very short and the radiator has to be very close to the cpu. You might even have enough room for a push-pull set-up.









WW


----------



## JiMmYMINI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Subvibes*
> 
> Cheers Bud.
> I've got this case... With 800w PSU (blowing out the base of the case)
> http://www.thermaltake.com.au/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001637
> Do you think the 100 model will fit it?


As long a it is able to mount a rear 120mm fan (which your one does) then you shouldn't have any problems.


----------



## Subvibes




----------



## itomic

If anyone is interested, i installed new BETA BIOS F7c for 970A - UD3 board and didnt notice any improvements over F6 for overclocking.


----------



## buttercup

Anyone have the UD5 (990fxa-ud5) model here? how are your NB/mosfet temps (for UD5 and under 990s since mobo design is same compared to the UD7 which has a completely different chipset layout ( NB/mosfets inline like most of the 990 asus boards)

debating on calling gigabyte and purchasing UD5 chipset heatsink to put on lower end 990 (990XA-UD3 myself) UD5 also has screw vs push pin which i prefer


----------



## billy66bare

I don't have Everest anymore, so I have no clue. lol


----------



## rawsteel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttercup*
> 
> Anyone have the UD5 (990fxa-ud5) model here? how are your NB/mosfet temps (for UD5 and under 990s since mobo design is same compared to the UD7 which has a completely different chipset layout ( NB/mosfets inline like most of the 990 asus boards)
> debating on calling gigabyte and purchasing UD5 chipset heatsink to put on lower end 990 (990XA-UD3 myself) UD5 also has screw vs push pin which i prefer


It is not really worth it they run hot also mine will idle in the low 40's and hit over 50 on load and thats without any overclocking


----------



## joeshrubbery

Quote:


> Anyone have the UD5 (990fxa-ud5) model here? how are your NB/mosfet temps (for UD5 and under 990s since mobo design is same compared to the UD7 which has a completely different chipset layout ( NB/mosfets inline like most of the 990 asus boards)
> 
> debating on calling gigabyte and purchasing UD5 chipset heatsink to put on lower end 990 (990XA-UD3 myself) UD5 also has screw vs push pin which i prefer


I was also unhappy with the temps on the NB and mosfet heatsinks on my UD3 when I first got the board, but a little steady airflow really makes a huge difference. When I first put my system together last year I was using a cheap aftermarket cpu cooler that did a decent job of shunting warm air straight out the back of the case, but that meant little to no airflow working through the surrounding chips. A few months later I switched it out with a different cooler that also happened to be a little directional in where it pushes air (a Zalman CNPS 9900 MAX to be specific) and suddenly the NB and mosfet heatsinks were at temperatures I was much happier with. Some people dislike that aspect of that particular cooler because they want warm leaving their case ASAP in order to keep ambient case temperature at a minimum, but if that's not a big worry for you then getting a decent CPU cooler that also happens to pull double duty delivering airflow to the surrounding chipsets is I feel just a good idea for the UD3.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

The UD3 and UD5 have slightly different layout's in the MOSFET area. The big change your going to need to worry about is the location of the CPU AUX 12v Plug. On the UD3 its moved very close to the MOSFET's vs the UD5 where the Plug is moved closer to the I/O back panel. I didn't notice until I saw both mobo's side by side in real life but the blown up pic's on the front page of the club clearly show the difference.

I have not tried to bolt a UD5 heat sink set up to a UD3 but it would appear that with out modding the UD5's heat sink its not going to fit well.


----------



## rakesh27

Sorry to change the subject alittle, why doesnt anyone talk about the UD7 ? is it a good mobo ?, without many problems ?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakesh27*
> 
> Sorry to change the subject alittle, why doesnt anyone talk about the UD7 ? is it a good mobo ?, without many problems ?


IMHO the UD7 is overpriced. On top of that I see no reason for most user's to use one over the UD3 or 5 unless they just want to watch their money fly out a window.

What it boils down to is the UD'X' line up has its quirks and that's fine for the price of the UD3 and 5. Both are always on sale for less than MSRP. The price being low make's it very easy to willingly over look small issues (like the hit and miss BIOS).
now the UD7 is at the $250 mark (often can be had for around $210-220) but it still has quirks like the UD3 and 5. At $200+ any quirk are an instant deal breaker.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> IMHO the UD7 is overpriced. On top of that I see no reason for most user's to use one over the UD3 or 5 unless they just want to watch their money fly out a window.
> 
> What it boils down to is the UD'X' line up has its quirks and that's fine for the price of the UD3 and 5. Both are always on sale for less than MSRP. The price being low make's it very easy to willingly over look small issues (like the hit and miss BIOS).
> now the UD7 is at the $250 mark (often can be had for around $210-220) but it still has quirks like the UD3 and 5. At $200+ any quirk are an instant deal breake


pretty much this. However the ud7 can be founder under 200$ on the egg now. There is no real advantage over the ud3, or ud5 mobos to justify the higher cost. Only thing you really get with the ud7 over the ud5 is ability to run quad-fire/ sli. Then some better heat sinks.

I personally went with the ud3, cause i already knew i didn't need more than 2 graphics cards. So the UD3 is by all means the best buy out of the bunch.


----------



## steezebe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakesh27*
> 
> Sorry to change the subject alittle, why doesnt anyone talk about the UD7 ? is it a good mobo ?, without many problems ?


If you're going to water cool, the UD7 is the only board with available aftermarket mobo water cooling (By EK). I haven't found any for the 3 or 5, which is a bummer because I have the 5... A consideration I didn't make upon mobo purchase


----------



## Wild Wally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steezebe*
> 
> If you're going to water cool, the UD7 is the only board with available aftermarket mobo water cooling (By EK). I haven't found any for the 3 or 5, which is a bummer because I have the 5... A consideration I didn't make upon mobo purchase


You can go to a partial solution though with a self-contained system. It won't cool as well as a traditional water cooling set up but it will get you most of the way there.

WW


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> If you're going to water cool, the UD7 is the only board with available aftermarket mobo water cooling (By EK). I haven't found any for the 3 or 5, which is a bummer because I have the 5... A consideration I didn't make upon mobo purchase


you can water cool any of the boards.

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109820216#DB_inline?height=260&width=530&inline_id=comp_table

The only difference between the ud7 and the ud3 waterblock setup is the ud7 is a all in one block for both the power circuits and north-bridge. While on the ud3 you have separate blocks.

Not a big deal........


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> you can water cool any of the boards.
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109820216#DB_inline?height=260&width=530&inline_id=comp_table
> The only difference between the ud7 and the ud3 waterblock setup is the ud7 is a all in one block for both the power circuits and north-bridge. While on the ud3 you have separate blocks.
> Not a big deal........


I don't see the 990FXA-UD5 listed. Has anyone got this to work? I know they are all similar design, but small changes can make one of these a no go.


----------



## steezebe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wild Wally*
> 
> You can go to a partial solution though with a self-contained system. It won't cool as well as a traditional water cooling set up but it will get you most of the way there.
> WW


True, that's what I've done; but I've only got the graphics cards and CPU water cooled, no NB/SB/MOSFETS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> you can water cool any of the boards.
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/waterblock/3831109820216#DB_inline?height=260&width=530&inline_id=comp_table
> The only difference between the ud7 and the ud3 waterblock setup is the ud7 is a all in one block for both the power circuits and north-bridge. While on the ud3 you have separate blocks.
> Not a big deal........


They may exist, but those don't work on the UD3/5.

And I was only referring to "_full_ mobo blocks," which I would prefer over separate set-ups. Sorry if I generated any confusion.


----------



## ebduncan

Not sure if anyone is interested but

The 990fxa-ud3 has a new beta bios out. f9c

Beta BIOS
Update CPU AGESA 1.2.7.1
Update AHCI ROM 3.1.0.0
Improve SSD compatibility

didn't see it posted so figured i'd chime in.


----------



## Fordox

it was posted about a week ago, but thanks for the effort


----------



## ebduncan

"it was posted about a week ago, but thanks for the effort "

actually it wasn't

only beta bios posted as of late was the f9B, not F9C


----------



## kzone75

F9c seems to be a good one.









In other news. I don't use any power savings in the Bios, but I am trying out the CPU power in CCC. And...



Absolutely no issues. It jumps from 32.43MHz to 4.5GHz depending on usage.


----------



## mezmenir

I'd say thats a bug with the newer versions of CPUz. There's no way the system would even run like that, lol.


----------



## kzone75

I think you're right.







It only happens when I use the lowest setting in CCC. At 45% it goes down to 1,9GHz..


----------



## mezmenir

CPUz has been so useless lately, my validation link is bugged too. Apparently I have a 1070T. Who'd a thought?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> F9c seems to be a good one.
> 
> In other news. I don't use any power savings in the Bios, but I am trying out the CPU power in CCC. And...
> 
> Absolutely no issues. It jumps from 32.43MHz to 4.5GHz depending on usage.


lets hope it doesn't take 1.2 volts to run at that speed lol.


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> lets hope it doesn't take 1.2 volts to run at that speed lol.


Well it is a Bulldozer. Probably still has a good 40w TDP at 32Mhz


----------



## Fordox

Do you have the newest version of CPU-Z?

I am also running now on the F9c bios, but i don't see any benefits like the faster boot-up time.
My last bios version was F6.


----------



## Willi

Hello guys, 990FX UD3 user here.
I would like to know if it's possible to mod/fit a Hyper 101 on the northbridge. I live in brazil, it can get pretty hot here and the temps on the NB frequently hit the 50C mark.
My intention is just to keep the temps low and under control, and I have a Hyper 101 laying around. There is also one old Evercool Buffalo, if any of those would fit in place of the NB stock cooler, it would be great.

Does anyone ever tried this? can it be done? I tried googling it witohut success.
thanks in advance.


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Hello guys, 990FX UD3 user here.
> I would like to know if it's possible to mod/fit a Hyper 101 on the northbridge. I live in brazil, it can get pretty hot here and the temps on the NB frequently hit the 50C mark.
> My intention is just to keep the temps low and under control, and I have a Hyper 101 laying around. There is also one old Evercool Buffalo, if any of those would fit in place of the NB stock cooler, it would be great.
> Does anyone ever tried this? can it be done? I tried googling it witohut success.
> thanks in advance.


I think it might be a tad too big if you are using a air cooler, However, You can try drilling holes and using screws + nuts + washers to mount it (Not recommend for obvious reasons). And dont use the H101. The heatpipe spacing is far too far.
This would be a better solution thou: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_197&products_id=22127


----------



## terence52

Anyway, Guys, Does any of the bios improve the fan control at least? >.>.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

My UD7 has died, it gives me a 88 error code which from what I can tell means the board is shorting somewhere but it has been fine since may. I have cleaned it using canned air and a electrical contact cleaned but no joy.
I'm pretty much screwed for the RMA aswell as I have swapped the heatsinks for a waterblock and lost the stock screws and thrown out the CPU HSF mounts.


----------



## Rebelord

Could try giving them a call to see if they can help. Never hurts to try at least.


----------



## terence52

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> My UD7 has died, it gives me a 88 error code which from what I can tell means the board is shorting somewhere but it has been fine since may. I have cleaned it using canned air and a electrical contact cleaned but no joy.
> I'm pretty much screwed for the RMA aswell as I have swapped the heatsinks for a waterblock and lost the stock screws and thrown out the CPU HSF mounts.


I don't think the stock hsf mount matters much. But the stock screws for the heatsink does. But as what rebelord said, Give a call or maybe leave it in a box for a while. Manged to fix my mangled UD5 (Lan died, Intermittent bsod) by letting it lie in the box for a couple of months without the battery. Luckily it still works fine. Using it right now as well.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> My UD7 has died, it gives me a 88 error code which from what I can tell means the board is shorting somewhere but it has been fine since may. I have cleaned it using canned air and a electrical contact cleaned but no joy.
> I'm pretty much screwed for the RMA aswell as I have swapped the heatsinks for a waterblock and lost the stock screws and thrown out the CPU HSF mounts.


Have you tried the GPU in another slot, cleared CMOS, checked if the motherboard mountings are tightened, tried to move RAM, kept the battery out for a while..?


----------



## Rebelord

If no other options are available. I would suggest contacting Sin0822 to see what he might be able to do. Either to fix the board or help with a RMA.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> My UD7 has died, it gives me a 88 error code which from what I can tell means the board is shorting somewhere but it has been fine since may. I have cleaned it using canned air and a electrical contact cleaned but no joy.
> I'm pretty much screwed for the RMA aswell as I have swapped the heatsinks for a waterblock and lost the stock screws and thrown out the CPU HSF mounts.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried the GPU in another slot, cleared CMOS, checked if the motherboard mountings are tightened, tried to move RAM, kept the battery out for a while..?
Click to expand...

The only thing I haven't done is try the GPU in another slot but I did try booting without the GPU and I get the same result.
I have just checked and Gigabyte don't deal with the RMAs in the UK and I have to go through the retailer, it's strange that after 4 months of flawless performance I get this.


----------



## terminx

You might not be completely screwed with the RMA... I sent a 790X-UD4P in with a BIOS issue a year or so ago (board would just re-flash the primary chip with the contents of the secondary over and over, then reboot) and their RMA center got back to me and said that while they should just void my warranty due to physical damage (power trace to the primary BIOS was completely burned), they would try to fix it anyway. I got the same board back a week or so later in completely functional condition, with the burnt trace repaired by hand.


----------



## Rebelord

Are you able to order those parts from Gigabyte on special order?
Sucks to here overall. UD7 is such a underrated board IMO.


----------



## bmgjet

Try running it out of the case.
That would rule out it shorting on the stand offs or the back plate


----------



## Argorn5757

so i just got the UD3 board and i love it, but i'm curious as to what the different LLC settings mean in the bios? (extreme, normal, etc)


----------



## mezmenir

They correspond to certain "compensation" levels, not really sure -who's- specification it is. AMD's?

0% = Regular
25% = Medium
50% = High
75% = Ultra
100% = Extreme (always gives a large vBoost).


----------



## Argorn5757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> They correspond to certain "compensation" levels, not really sure -who's- specification it is. AMD's?
> 0% = Regular
> 25% = Medium
> 50% = High
> 75% = Ultra
> 100% = Extreme (always gives a large vBoost).


is there any way to make my vcore lower? right now it jumps up to 1.49, even when i try to set it lower


----------



## mezmenir

What do you have the LLC and vCore set to? I may be able to remember this from my UD3, hah.


----------



## Argorn5757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> What do you have the LLC and vCore set to? I may be able to remember this from my UD3, hah.


normal and 1.4


----------



## mezmenir

Wow, quite the boost you're getting there. Is that idle or full load voltage, the 1.49?

All I can say there is try and set the vCore even lower, if your idle vCore drops too low, increase LLC to compensate, but make sure it isn't too crazy when you fully load it.

EDIT: From my UD3, this is with a Thuban chip by the way (since you don't specify)

BIOS vCore: 1.450v
Idle vCore: 1.475v
load vCore: 1.536v (IBT)
LLC: Ultra

The C5 has way better voltage management imo, set 1.475, it stays there. Lol


----------



## Argorn5757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> Wow, quite the boost you're getting there. Is that idle or full load voltage, the 1.49?
> All I can say there is try and set the vCore even lower, if your idle vCore drops too low, increase LLC to compensate, but make sure it isn't too crazy when you fully load it.


its the idle. but it drops to 1.12 V too. so the range is 1.12v - 1.49v

i'm very confused


----------



## mezmenir

1.12? That is probably C6/C1E kicking in and lowering the chip during idle times. Are you overclocking it? Have you disabled C1E/Cool-n-Quiet?

(And about my vcore stuff above, if you wonder why I set it that way- it was because the transient response on that board was terrible, 100% stable would instantly crash the moment load was reduced and reapplied because the LLC is sort of "slow").


----------



## Argorn5757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> 1.12? That is probably C6/C1E kicking in and lowering the chip during idle times. Are you overclocking it? Have you disabled C1E/Cool-n-Quiet?
> (And about my vcore stuff above, if you wonder why I set it that way- it was because the transient response on that board was terrible, 100% stable would instantly crash the moment load was reduced and reapplied because the LLC is sort of "slow").


i haven't changed any settings other than vcore, should I disable CNQ?


----------



## mezmenir

Doh. Why didn't I think of that.

Disable C'n'Q, C1e and MAKE SURE AMD TURBO IS TURNED OFF. <--- raises hell with vCore







forgot that!


----------



## Argorn5757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> Doh. Why didn't I think of that.
> Disable C'n'Q, C1e and MAKE SURE AMD TURBO IS TURNED OFF. <--- raises hell with vCore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> forgot that!


alright thanks, i'll do that. my CPU is a 965 be btw


----------



## mezmenir

Yep, not a problem. Hopefully that straightens it out for you.

I just remembered the Turbo bit (mainly because it is the first thing I disable, lol)- it changed my chips VID from 1.3 to 1.425, and the board compensated by adding more volts. LLC just made that bit worse.


----------



## Argorn5757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> Yep, not a problem. Hopefully that straightens it out for you.
> I just remembered the Turbo bit (mainly because it is the first thing I disable, lol)- it changed my chips VID from 1.3 to 1.425, and the board compensated by adding more volts. LLC just made that bit worse.


alright so with c1E and CNQ disabled, LLC set to normal and my vcore set to 1.4, I get a range of 1.42-1.46. which is better than what I had before


----------



## mezmenir

Turbo shut off?

From this point, I'd say try lowering it to ~1.375, I take it you're aiming for a fairly even 1.40 vCore?

EDIT: 1.375 with "Medium" might do it.


----------



## Argorn5757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> Turbo shut off?
> From this point, I'd say try lowering it to ~1.375, I take it you're aiming for a fairly even 1.40 vCore?
> EDIT: 1.375 with "Medium" might do it.


i don't have turbo on my processor (965)

ill try that, thanks


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Argorn5757*
> 
> i don't have turbo on my processor (965)


There's no turbo on the 965? Sorry about that. Still unsure of which chips support what.

About the proper vCore and LLC setting to give you an even 1.40v, that may take a little experimenting.. I tinkered soooo much with my UD3..







Board was time consuming, lol


----------



## Argorn5757

with those settings you suggested its at 1.38-1.39, which i'm happy with. thanks!

i'm still a little confused on what the LLC settings do.
Quote:


> 0% = Regular
> 25% = Medium
> 50% = High
> 75% = Ultra
> 100% = Extreme (always gives a large vBoost).


whats the difference between 0% and 100%?


----------



## mezmenir

The amount of vCore that the board applies to compensate for "vDroop" during load conditions. Higher levels of LLC add more voltage, though setting it too high usually leads to excessive "vBoost", overshooting your vCore settings by a large margin. Mine for example, 1.45 with "Ultra" LLC would show 1.536v under load. 1.45 with "Extreme" showed 1.575v.

The idea of LLC is to eliminate the sag produced from high loads (which is part of the operational specification of the chips to prolong their useful lifespan).

EDIT: A lot of this also has to deal with transient response, and on my board it was pretty bad. The C5 has a lot better load response on the VRM, and due to that, I can run lower volts and LLC. Sadly, Gigabyte boards (not sure if all), don't give you the option to control the LLC response time and VRM frequency spectrum.


----------



## crash01

Hi guys, I have a problem with UD5 about temps.

In full load (prime95) i have this temps








I dont live subzero, this temps are 100% wrong..I'm using high-end cooler (air)

temp.jpg 478k .jpg file


I have the bios F10b

Any idea?
How can i fix?

Thx


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crash01*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a problem with UD5 about temps.
> In full load (prime95) i have this temps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont live subzero, this temps are 100% wrong..I'm using high-end cooler (air)
> 
> temp.jpg 478k .jpg file
> 
> I have the bios F10b
> Any idea?
> How can i fix?
> Thx


First boot to the BIOS and check the temp read out's there. You might have a defective temp sensor, also what dose the socket temp read? I have noticed more and more with AMD that core temp's read way low, with the socket temp being closer to accurate.


----------



## bob80

Good night guys, today I got my new AMD platform: Gigabyte 990FXA UD5 + AMD FX 4100.

After assembling It I've tried to overclock memories (Patriot Viper Xtreme 2133 C11).... without results ! The motherboard fails overclocking even at 2133 Mhz -.- (10.66x multiplier).

Instead If I Increase memory frequency increasing fsb (1866 @ 2133) there are no problem, I can get 2300MHz easily. I've flashed the latest BIOS F9 and F10beta... it's the samething.

In your opinion what could be the problem ? Why memories oc does fail ?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Good night guys, today I got my new AMD platform: Gigabyte 990FXA UD5 + AMD FX 4100.
> 
> After assembling It I've tried to overclock memories (Patriot Viper Xtreme 2133 C11).... without results ! The motherboard fails overclocking even at 2133 Mhz -.- (10.66x multiplier).
> 
> Instead If I Increase memory frequency increasing fsb (1866 @ 2133) there are no problem, I can get 2300MHz easily. I've flashed the latest BIOS F9 and F10beta... it's the samething.
> 
> In your opinion what could be the problem ? Why memories oc does fail ?


how many sticks of ram do you have? also what slots are they in?

Lastly is c1e in bios turned off?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Try running it out of the case.
> That would rule out it shorting on the stand offs or the back plate


I don't think it is shorting on the case it has been running fine for 4 months then all of a sudden I get a reboot and 88 error.
Anyway I managed to track down the parts hiding in my parts cupboard so the RMA should be good to go now.


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> I don't think it is shorting on the case it has been running fine for 4 months then all of a sudden I get a reboot and 88 error.
> Anyway I managed to track down the parts hiding in my parts cupboard so the RMA should be good to go now.


Best wishes with the RMA







Gigabyte was pretty awesome when I had to RMA my UD3 for crappy SATA controller/ports absolutely killing the transfer rates.


----------



## bob80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> how many sticks of ram do you have? also what slots are they in?
> Lastly is c1e in bios turned off?


Cool & Quiet off
C1e all off
APM off
turbo off

I have 2 sticks.. I've tried 1-3 and 2-4 slots it's the same


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Cool & Quiet, C1e all on off.
> 
> I have 2 sticks.. I've tried 1-3 and 2-4 slots it's the same


ARE you positive you using those slots? The Gigabyte 990fxa boards are different than most boards. IE the slot closest to the cpu is slot 4, Then is as follows(left to right) Slot 4<>Slot 2<>Slot3<>Slot1

For dual channel you use Slots 4&3, or Slots 1&2. Refer to the order on the board i just posted.


----------



## bob80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> ARE you positive you using those slots? The Gigabyte 990fxa boards are different than most boards. IE the slot closest to the cpu is slot 4, Then is as follows(left to right) Slot 4<>Slot 2<>Slot3<>Slot1
> For dual channel you use Slots 4&3, or Slots 1&2. Refer to the order on the board i just posted.


Actually I'm using 4 and 3, I tried also 2 and 1.... As i said before It's the same


----------



## ebduncan

i thought they removed the 2133 divider anyways? I run ddr3 2000mhz 9-9-9-24 I use the 1866 divider and 215mhz fsb.

Been awhile since i messed with it.

Anyways when your trying to set 2133mhz are your northbridge and hyper transport also changing? you will need to keep a eye on those as often they will reach for the sky Esp if using auto memory clock.


----------



## bob80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i thought they removed the 2133 divider anyways? I run ddr3 2000mhz 9-9-9-24 I use the 1866 divider and 215mhz fsb.
> Been awhile since i messed with it.
> Anyways when your trying to set 2133mhz are your northbridge and hyper transport also changing? you will need to keep a eye on those as often they will reach for the sky Esp if using auto memory clock.


I have 10.66x divider in the bios... But I am an overclocker, I want to reach highest clock possible on the ram (Hynix, so they can get 2500+).

I tried also to low NB and Hyper transport...it's the same


----------



## ebduncan

eh even with the 9.33 divider you should be able to reach 3000mhz on the ram. My board does 330fsb no problem

I wouldn't worry about getting the max clock for your memory. Things like better timings more than they like the higher clock. Anything past 1866 is overkill on the bandwidth. So you get better results via latency.
have you tried increasing the dram voltage? to 1.65?


----------



## bob80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> eh even with the 9.33 divider you should be able to reach 3000mhz on the ram. My board does 330fsb no problem
> I wouldn't worry about getting the max clock for your memory. Things like better timings more than they like the higher clock. Anything past 1866 is overkill on the bandwidth. So you get better results via latency.
> have you tried increasing the dram voltage? to 1.65?


Daily overclocking doesn't matter for me... This is just a benching platform. I tried 2133 with1,65 and even 1.7V.. nothing to do.

330FSB with wich cpu ratio and voltages ?


----------



## BWG

I just picked up one of the UD3 boards this week. I'm going to overclock everything next week on the board, but I did one quick stability test with a mild overclock and noticed some very significant vdroop under load. I have yet to flash the bios from f6e to something more recent, but wow was it ever bad. I had it set to 1.475v and it was dropping to 1.4v under load.

Should I expect the bios update will make things better, or am I going to need to compensate for this vdroop by raising vcore to something much higher in the bios?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I just picked up one of the UD3 boards this week. I'm going to overclock everything next week on the board, but I did one quick stability test with a mild overclock and noticed some very significant vdroop under load. I have yet to flash the bios from f6e to something more recent, but wow was it ever bad. I had it set to 1.475v and it was dropping to 1.4v under load.
> 
> Should I expect the bios update will make things better, or am I going to need to compensate for this vdroop by raising vcore to something much higher in the bios?


you should have LLC if it is a 1.1 revision or newer. Otherwise you will have to increase your voltage to what ever you want it to be under load.


----------



## BWG

I do have revision 1.1, so let me flash this bios to see if it's the reason I'm seeing no LLC controls in the bios.

Edit:

I don't see any controls, but I'm sure it's built in. I will start overclocking on Monday and let you know what this board does versus my Asus. I just went ahead and tested it out with the new bios and the vdroop is gone. It's increasing under load now by .125v to .25v. Whew!


----------



## switchblade

Hey guys I have an issue with the UD3.I have 4 ram sticks installed. 2x2gb in SLOT 1&3 , 2X4 in SLOT 2&4. Now this sounds weird but in AMD Overdrive i see all 12gb, in HWINFO i see all 12GB, In CPUZ is see all 12 GB nut in system properties windows sees 9GB and says only 5.98GB usable. Once more from time to time it will vary to 10GB and 9 usable and so forth. What's happening exactly? Now I didnt have this issue with my 890gx Gigabyte board with the same windows copy. So somethings up with this board. I only switched to a fx8120 and the 990fxa-ud3 all other things remained constant. Just checked HWINFO and realised that its recognising my OCZ1333MHZ kit as a 1600MHZ kit.


----------



## Rebelord

Did you just swap out the motherboard and CPU. Or did you do a fresh install of windows along with that? If you just swapped over, that is why. Would clear up a alot if you did a fresh install.
Because you are mixing ram sticks to a point. Make sure to manually set timings and speeds in the BIOS.


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *switchblade*
> 
> Hey guys I have an issue with the UD3.I have 4 ram sticks installed. 2x2gb in SLOT 1&3 , 2X4 in SLOT 2&4. Now this sounds weird but in AMD Overdrive i see all 12gb, in HWINFO i see all 12GB, In CPUZ is see all 12 GB nut in system properties windows sees 9GB and says only 5.98GB usable. Once more from time to time it will vary to 10GB and 9 usable and so forth. What's happening exactly? Now I didnt have this issue with my 890gx Gigabyte board with the same windows copy. So somethings up with this board. I only switched to a fx8120 and the 990fxa-ud3 all other things remained constant. Just checked HWINFO and realised that its recognising my OCZ1333MHZ kit as a 1600MHZ kit.


Instead of reinstalling Windows, you can try this. WARNING. THIS MAY BREAK YOUR WINDOWS. I don't take responsability for damages here, so I recommend reading up on Sysprep.

Open an Administrator command prompt.

CD /d %WINDIR%\System32\Sysprep
SYSPREP /reboot /generalize

It works -almost- like reinstalling Windows, cuts all of it's ties to drivers and what not.


----------



## switchblade

So you guys think its Windows, since its the only thing reading the memory wrong.


----------



## Mokona512

it is a weird issue, if you are using windows 7 64 bit then this should not happen, but if you are using windows 7 32 bit then did the windows 7 server kernel hack to UP the PAE to 64GB (which would allow the 32 bit OS to use all 12GB, then that hack may have gotten messed up)

On my system using 2x2 GB and 2x4GB sticks, windows 7 detects all 12GB (windows 7 64 bit SP1)


----------



## switchblade

Their timings are different but that didnt stop the 890gx board from working fine and the same OS install from detecting everything. Now I did try to make sure that I have manual timings and t wasnt set to auto and still had the same issue. I am wondering wth is going on. If it were a 32 bit OS it wouldnt detect above 3.96GB or so. I love the way this board looks m an I can live with having 9GB usable since I have never used more than 5GB while gaming or doing anything else. The NB heatsink is kind off flimsy though. I remember taking the board out from the bag and holding the heat sink and was like *** it was loose. I Removed it used stiffer springs from something else and reapplied TIM. I think they are some of the best looking boards I have ever seen


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *switchblade*
> 
> ... I Removed it used stiffer springs from something else and reapplied TIM. I think *they are some of the best looking boards I have ever seen*


Agreed and qft...


----------



## Rebelord

Still have the issue Switch?
If so, instead of doing a re install, could try to run a Live Linux CD to see what and how it detects the memory. Or, possibly bad dimm slots? /shrug


----------



## switchblade

Its the same issue. I am thinking at this point that the OS is ******ed. On very few occassions probably twice when I boot and it says 5.98GB installed. most of the time it says 11GB installed and 9.98 usable but the thing is I have never used 5GB of ram so Instead of reinstalling I will just let it be.May try BIOS update I believe I have F5 or something like that. Whats the best BIOS for the UD3?


----------



## Rebelord

Have you tried just the base pairs of memory sticks? 2x2GB and boot and see how Windows reacts? Then the 2x4GB sticks. Then both pairs. Try swapping the pairs from say, AA to BB slots.


----------



## switchblade

I have tried them in different slot configurations but never by them selves in terms of 2x2 and the 2x4 by themselves


----------



## ebduncan

re-install windows.


----------



## Obfuscator

I finally upgraded my video card last week, and now I am thinking of upgrading my processor later this year. Is anyone else thinking of upgrading to a Vishera-based CPU when they come out?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I finally upgraded my video card last week, and now I am thinking of upgrading my processor later this year. Is anyone else thinking of upgrading to a Vishera-based CPU when they come out?


maybe, but what i see from trinity, and what i hear from steam roller being am3+ compatible, I will likely wait for steam roller.


----------



## Rebelord

Same, waiting for a quite awhile to see if they are actually major improvements. As I went 990FX thinking BD would at least be better than Phenom II chips.


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obfuscator*
> 
> I finally upgraded my video card last week, and now I am thinking of upgrading my processor later this year. Is anyone else thinking of upgrading to a Vishera-based CPU when they come out?


On day one, I mean why not. After having to replace my board- I basically bought into Piledriver (since I could have bought an interim board for much, much cheaper lol).


----------



## MKIV

I currently updated my bios to f10b from f7 and I run the windows experience index then my processor and memory scores went down..Is it ok because of BD or what? Im currently using 1090T. any suggestions..or did gigabyte design it because of BD?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I currently updated my bios to f10b from f7 and I run the windows experience index then my processor and memory scores went down..Is it ok because of BD or what? Im currently using 1090T. any suggestions..or did gigabyte design it because of BD?


don't base anything on your WEI (windows experiance score) for starters. Anyways the Amd 990 chipset/platform was designed for Bulldozer and future Am3+ cpus. Thuban or your 1090t is a am3 cpu, its chipset was the 800 series/700 series chipsets. Overall the 900 series chipsets are meant for bulldozer and future cpus, but are backwards compatible with am3 cpus.


----------



## switchblade

I finally decided to to stop gaming and get busy with dealing with the ram. Finally got all the 12gb of RAM to show. I had to go through about 15 of 16 combinations testing each by themselves and pairing them together and mixed and finally installing both hyper x modules in dimms closest to the cpu socket ie. slot DDR3_4 and DDR3_2 and the OCZ's in the other two slots. I could have swore that they should have been alternated but I am not sure why its like this. The ******ed thing is it doesnt work with both OCZ's in DDR3_4 and DDR3_2 and the hyperX in the other 2


----------



## MKIV

Just wonderin' before I got 7.7 now it's only 7.5
not much of a worry since there are a lot of benchmark tools out there.
Can anybody give me any suggestions on SSD..I'm currently aiming for vertex 4 and crucial M4 both 120gb


----------



## switchblade

The vertex 4 will be faster in writes especially since it has the sandforce controller which gives the best performance but was unreliable and you may need to update firmware. I like the M4 because its a great allrounder. I think the access times are faster on the M4 and the boot times as a result are usually faster. I chose the M4 reliability, access times which is what you will experience most of the time when opening programs. You dont want to do too many writes on the SSD anyways and READS are whats most important since thats what you will do most of the time.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=926&Itemid=60&limit=1&limitstart=10


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *switchblade*
> 
> The vertex 4 will be faster in writes especially since it has the sandforce controller which gives the best performance but was unreliable and you may need to update firmware. I like the M4 because its a great allrounder. I think the access times are faster on the M4 and the boot times as a result are usually faster. I chose the M4 reliability, access times which is what you will experience most of the time when opening programs. You dont want to do too many writes on the SSD anyways and READS are whats most important since thats what you will do most of the time.
> http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=926&Itemid=60&limit=1&limitstart=10


the vertex 4 uses an indilinx controller now, they have gone off the sandforce chips.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

My RMA has been completed, unfortunately the UD7 has now been discontinued so Ebuyer will not be getting any more in, I have had to get a refund and spend another £40 get one from Scan but the good news is I will have it tomorrow.


----------



## switchblade

Ah i see thanks for the correction. Which will you choose?


----------



## mezmenir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *switchblade*
> 
> Ah i see thanks for the correction. Which will you choose?


Samsung 830 or Plextor. (Or wait for the Samsung 840, theoretical). Their durabilityerformance ratio is extremely high.
Quote:


> My RMA has been completed, unfortunately the UD7 has now been discontinued so Ebuyer will not be getting any more in, I have had to get a refund and spend another £40 get one from Scan but the good news is I will have it tomorrow.


At least you got your money back, not so bad, yeh? Congrats on soon to be fix'd.


----------



## Fordox

The 840 isn't such a big improvement of the samsung 830. its just a bit better, but also more expencive at launch. the 830 is just as cheap as the M4 in my country, so thats the one I should pick.
plextor and intel are way to expensive, and the m4 is good enough, but you will notice the difference between a m4 and a 830 and the difference is allmost nothing (in price).

so go for the 830.

edit: I'm talking about the 840. not the 840 pro, which is now about the best ssd on the market on a sata interface for consumers. but you do pay for it (1,4 dollars per gig)


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

I'm back up and running on the UD7.
A funny thing I thought I had killed this new one when I was tidying the cables as I booted it up and received the dreaded 88 error again, turns out I hadn't plugged the 8 pin EPS back into the extension.


----------



## Rebelord

OH, so you got another UD7? Awesome!!

I think the 990FXA-UD7 is under rated. Yes, it may be over kill for some, but those that need it. Its awesome.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Yeah the place I had ordered from was out of stock, so I had to go to another store and pay an extra £40 to get one, which I have since found was their last one (the UD7 is being discontinued).


----------



## Fordox

I just had a random freeze at start-up of my pc. I also had a few lags in my system since the new beta bios, anyone else experienced it?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> I just had a random freeze at start-up of my pc. I also had a few lags in my system since the new beta bios, anyone else experienced it?


I would revert back to your last known BIOS version to confirm that the new beta is quirky.. I would bet it is.


----------



## Fordox

It is not common. i just had this twice, in a time of 3 weeks. not really worth the effort to flash it back and set my OC's back in my bios.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG*
> 
> I just picked up one of the UD3 boards this week. I'm going to overclock everything next week on the board, but I did one quick stability test with a mild overclock and noticed some very significant vdroop under load. I have yet to flash the bios from f6e to something more recent, but wow was it ever bad. I had it set to 1.475v and it was dropping to 1.4v under load.
> 
> Should I expect the bios update will make things better, or am I going to need to compensate for this vdroop by raising vcore to something much higher in the bios?


You have to set the LLC to "High and/or Ultra High" to prevent that, when you do that, it will only have a 0.05v difference with what you manually set it to. This is only for rev 1.1 or 1.2, rev 1.0 doesn't have LLC.


----------



## Bookerdalooker

hi all, I was lucky enough to have my 990FXA-UD5 donated to me, the only drawback is that there is no back plate with it to secure to case and tidy up the appearance, does anyone know if these plates can be bought seperately?

Cheers


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> hi all, I was lucky enough to have my 990FXA-UD5 donated to me, the only drawback is that there is no back plate with it to secure to case and tidy up the appearance, does anyone know if these plates can be bought seperately?


BY back plate do you mean the metal plate on the back side of the motherboard that holds the cooling solution in place? Or are you talking about the I/O shield? that covers the connection options in the back?


----------



## Bookerdalooker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> BY back plate do you mean the metal plate on the back side of the motherboard that holds the cooling solution in place? Or are you talking about the I/O shield? that covers the connection options in the back?


Aha, now i know what to properly call it,The I/O sheild is what I mean


----------



## Krahe

Quick question, am currently running F6 bios on my UD7, can I skip straight to the F10 beta? Or do I need to install F7 then F8 etc?

Cheers


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

@Bookerdalooker

Check this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATX-Blende-I-O-shield-Gigabyte-GA-990FXA-UD5-REV-1-333-io-schield-NEU-backplate-/251164421893?pt=DE_Computing_Motherboard_Komponenten&hash=item3a7a90ef05#ht_3636wt_1139










Check if it fits your UD5 version.


----------



## Bookerdalooker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> @Bookerdalooker
> Check this:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATX-Blende-I-O-shield-Gigabyte-GA-990FXA-UD5-REV-1-333-io-schield-NEU-backplate-/251164421893?pt=DE_Computing_Motherboard_Komponenten&hash=item3a7a90ef05#ht_3636wt_1139
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check if it fits your UD5 version.


Oh so close! but you have pretty much answered my question, the right one is out there somewhere!

Thanks


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Quick question, am currently running F6 bios on my UD7, can I skip straight to the F10 beta? Or do I need to install F7 then F8 etc?
> 
> Cheers


Yes you can skip the previous updates and just install the latest one.


----------



## Panickypress

YEEAH. Don't have anything interesting to say except for.. Look at it!!!







bought myself a present, a new block for my UD7, i have no use for it really but i needed blocks for the gpu's so i got over excited and got this also. This is the most stable and best looking board i have ever seen, especially with the EK block... thats it, just wanted to show of that, ok bye


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> YEEAH. Don't have anything interesting to say except for.. Look at it!!! bought myself a present, a new block for my UD7, i have no use for it really but i needed blocks for the gpu's so i got over excited and got this also. This is the most stable and best looking board i have ever seen, especially with the EK block... thats it, just wanted to show of that, ok bye


looks good


----------



## Mokona512

I am thinking about testing the F9e beta bios for the 990FXA-UD3 and am wondering if anyone else has tried it yet. (I have not tried the F9 yet since F6-F8 caused the the bios to keep reseting it's self and complain about the overclock, even though a 10+ hour prime 95 test showed it to be stable.

Also does gigabyte offer any specific areas to bug report on beta bios?


----------



## billy66bare

If I'd known they were going to leave use UD5 owners out in the cold for blocks, I probably would have waited and got the UD7. :/
Looks super clean, Panickypress!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Here is my blocked up board


----------



## ebduncan

Ya i am really considering selling my ud3 and getting the ud7. Just so i can get myself a pretty water block. Considering Steamroller is also going to be am3+ I don't see a reason not to.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mokona512*
> 
> I am thinking about testing the F9e beta bios for the 990FXA-UD3 and am wondering if anyone else has tried it yet. (I have not tried the F9 yet since F6-F8 caused the the bios to keep reseting it's self and complain about the overclock, even though a 10+ hour prime 95 test showed it to be stable.
> Also does gigabyte offer any specific areas to bug report on beta bios?


Its working fine on my UD3 with FX8120 @ 4.5ghz but still not as good as F6C for overclocking.


----------



## sumitlian

New BIOS for UD3/UD5/UD7 has arrived.
Its Beta BIOS with new "CPU AGESA 1.5.0.0". Looks like Piledriver FX is not that far now


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Its working fine on my UD3 with FX8120 @ 4.5ghz but still not as good as F6C for overclocking.


i've had horrible luck with any of the bios past F5. Until F9 I find F9C and the new F9E to be great bios. With f6-f8 i was unable to get 4.9ghz stable, or higher.

With f5 and f9c/e i can run stable over 5ghz.


----------



## Ghostbusters

Has anyone got any information on the UD3 board Ver. 1.0 receiving a BIOS update to run Vishera? I have contacted GIGABYTE and they said its in the works and that was it. The tech department said I could use f9e BIOS flash and it should work. Was just wondering.


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Here is my blocked up board


that's a rev1.1 board their, it's so nice to have LLC. this rev 1.0 I have doesn't have it.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostbusters*
> 
> Has anyone got any information on the UD3 board Ver. 1.0 receiving a BIOS update to run Vishera? I have contacted GIGABYTE and they said its in the works and that was it. The tech department said I could use f9e BIOS flash and it should work. Was just wondering.


Will be able to tell you when I get my 8350 on friday.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostbusters*
> 
> Has anyone got any information on the UD3 board Ver. 1.0 receiving a BIOS update to run Vishera? I have contacted GIGABYTE and they said its in the works and that was it. The tech department said I could use f9e BIOS flash and it should work. Was just wondering.


I am waiting on this too .
If they do one , it's one up on Asus - Their support people state that rev. 1.0 Sabertooth boards will not support Vishera rev. 2.0 only .
I have both boards so If Gigabyte do do an update It will be their boards for the next couple of family builds not Asus .


----------



## Fordox

I have watercooled my fx-8150 on the ud3 board.

and the temperature sensors... I think tmpin1 and tmpin2 are both on the cpu, because they both dropped down a lot. but i still believe that the tmpin 2 is the actual core temp, because these still perfectly match with amd overdrive.

and if gigabyte sais it will work, then it will. the new beta bios is updatet for a new cpu line.


----------



## Ghostbusters

Awesome, let me know. I have been holding off since there is no official BIOS update yet for Vishera with these Mobo's Ver 1.0.
Also, for updating the BIOS. I have been reading a lot since I am a noob when it comes to this. From my understanding it's...
1. Download BIOS update to flash drive
2. Load Optimized Defaults then Load Q-flash
3. Select BIOS from Flash drive and install
4. Then go back and set up your BIOS preferences

Does it matter if you are running in IDE or ACHI if you have your OS on your SSD? And I can run my PII 970 just fine after the BIOS update? Or do I need to install the FX chip afterwards?


----------



## steezebe

Is there a way for to change what PCI-e slot is the primary? I got two water-cooled cards, and I don't want to move them if at all possible, but the display ports on the primary card are misbehaving so I want to make it my secondary card just for crossfire purposes.

ps i'm still on bios F3, but I doubt that makes a difference.


----------



## Mule

I'll have to dig out the packet, but tiny little screws from your favourite local DIY place. I guessed at the size. Original pad left on the VRMs.


----------



## kzone75

UD3 Rev 1.0 is PD-ready now.







F9 is out..


----------



## paulwarden2505

Hi guys as an owner of the UD7 i am looking forward to getting my hands on one of the PD cpus either the 6300 or 8350 will see how long it takes me to save up for it i was also wondering if anyone had heard a rumour that Gigabyte are rereleasing the 990FXA boards with UEFI and would anyone be willing to replace their mobo with the new revision this is where i saw it mentioned http://www.techpowerup.com/174308/Gigabyte-Socket-AM3+-Motherboards-Get-UEFI-BIOS-Finally.html


----------



## kzone75

And F9 brought down my maxxmem scores by a lot. The best one for me is STILL F6c.. The F9 betas brought the scores down as well..


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> Hi guys as an owner of the UD7 i am looking forward to getting my hands on one of the PD cpus either the 6300 or 8350 will see how long it takes me to save up for it i was also wondering if anyone had heard a rumour that Gigabyte are rereleasing the 990FXA boards with UEFI and would anyone be willing to replace their mobo with the new revision this is where i saw it mentioned http://www.techpowerup.com/174308/Gigabyte-Socket-AM3+-Motherboards-Get-UEFI-BIOS-Finally.html


I guess this is why the UD7 was out of at Ebuyer when I RMAed and I got the last one at scan. Hopefully Scan will get some of the updated ones, just in case this board dies on me.


----------



## Ghostbusters

Yep, put the F9 BIOS on my board last night. Not sure what all the fuss is about flashing BIOS. As long as you read what to do its not hard. Now, just waiting for my 8350. Bought mine off NEWEGG for 199.00 because I had a 10% off coupon. Would have never paid the extra 20 bucks out of principal. Amazon is selling it for 229.0. It is about the only two mainstream places I have seen have it for sale.


----------



## bmgjet

Just wonder if any one ever found a hardware mod for the UD3 1.0 to counter the vdrop.

Just finished finding max oc on the F9 bios and its another let down.
How can gigabyte keep releasing bioses that make it worse.

F5 = Set voltage and it stayed at the but had the APM bug.
F6C = 0.05V drop (5ghz stable)
F9E = 0.1V drop (4.7ghz stable)
F9 = 0.15V drop.(4.4ghz stable)

And to confirm its not chip degradation I stuck F6c back on it any im priming at 5ghz right now no problem where I couldnt even boot at 4.5ghz on F9


----------



## pony-tail

Am I to understand that the UD3 (rev 1.0) definitely does support the FX8350 ?
I have already ordered - and paid for the CPU so if it does not I have problems as I have already "donated" the 965 that was on it to my daughter .


----------



## bmgjet

There website says its supported in F9 bios for 1.0 Ud3. I should know for sure since tracking number for my 8350 has it on its delivery route so hopefully ill have it with in the hour.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> There website says its supported in F9 bios for 1.0 Ud3. I should know for sure since tracking number for my 8350 has it on its delivery route so hopefully ill have it with in the hour.


Mine will not be here till Thursday next week .


----------



## CaelThunderwing

(finally lastnight i was bugged where i couldnt do squat even after verifying my Email!)

i'm using F7 not sure if irts worth updating to F9 as im allready sseing issues with this version, only updated to F7 to solve the Steam DRM Bug that plauges the FX line of Bulldozers.

but what was the actual BS Gigabyte trie dto feed for what was recommended about updating to F9?


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail*
> 
> Mine will not be here till Thursday next week .


Got it and its working, Forgot to clear my BD settings but booted up on those no problem.
Currently priming at 4.5ghz on 1.34V lol


----------



## blacklizard

Hi, I'm new here









Just wondering if GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD5 (rev. 1.x) supports core unlocking.

I have a Phenom II X2 545 which unlocks perfectly to Phenom II X4 B45, all 4 core is stable with 760gm p33 mobo.

I'm now in process of changing to new casing and motherboard, just wondering if GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD5 (rev. 1.x) supports core unlocking.

Thanks


----------



## ionstorm66

What are the differences in the hardware revisions for the UD7? I have both a 1.0 and a 1.3, and would like to know which one I am going to use in my main rig. Right now I have the 1.0 in it, and man dose that NB/VRM get hot. I have the EK block for it coming in tomorrow, but in the mean time; I can't touch the heatsink, or the back of the PCB by the NB/VRM without burning my fingers. I clipped a RAM cooler on it for now to help with the temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blacklizard*
> 
> Hi, I'm new here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering if GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD5 (rev. 1.x) supports core unlocking.
> I have a Phenom II X2 545 which unlocks perfectly to Phenom II X4 B45, all 4 core is stable with 760gm p33 mobo.
> I'm now in process of changing to new casing and motherboard, just wondering if GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD5 (rev. 1.x) supports core unlocking.
> Thanks


The 950 South bridge dose core unlocking, so you are good to go.


----------



## blacklizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ionstorm66*
> 
> The 950 South bridge dose core unlocking, so you are good to go.


Cool, thanks for heads up


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blacklizard*
> 
> Hi, I'm new here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering if GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD5 (rev. 1.x) supports core unlocking.
> I have a Phenom II X2 545 which unlocks perfectly to Phenom II X4 B45, all 4 core is stable with 760gm p33 mobo.
> I'm now in process of changing to new casing and motherboard, just wondering if GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD5 (rev. 1.x) supports core unlocking.
> Thanks


Yes it does.


----------



## stickg1

Anyone overclock on a Vishera on their 990FXA-UD3 yet? Or any of them the boards doesn't have to be just a UD3. It seems I need a massive voltage jump to go from 4.5GHz to 4.6GHz. Maybe I hit my sweet spot?

Also I'm having trouble with LLC. No matter what I set my LLC to in BIOS I have my voltage at 1.3875v and under load it goes up to 1.440v. Changing LLC from Auto > Regular > Medium > High > Ultra-High > Extreme yields the same effects. Any insight on this? Is there a setting I am missing?


----------



## bmgjet

4.75ghz on my ud3 R1 with no LLC.
The voltage drop is killing me for going any higher.


----------



## Obfuscator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostbusters*
> 
> Does it matter if you are running in IDE or ACHI if you have your OS on your SSD? And I can run my PII 970 just fine after the BIOS update? Or do I need to install the FX chip afterwards?


AHCI is preferred for solid state hard drives. Also, you should be able to run your 970 with any BIOS update that you use.


----------



## fereka

I recently bouth an internal usb 3.0 19 pin connector with 2 usb 3.0 slots.I connected this connector to motherboard 19 pin slots usb 3.0 to have the other two usb 3.0 avaible in the front but i experienced problems.One slot working if i connect an usb 3.0 hdd but the other one not(unknown device when installing driver).If i connect an usb 2.0 hdd working on both slots.My usb driver 115.My motherboard is Gigabyte 990fxa -ud3 rev 1.2 bios version FD(Amd Phenom x4 955 3.2,4x2 corsair 1600,gtx 460,chieftec 750w,ssd samsung 830 120g.This is a problem with this motherboard or is the connector?Did anyone have this problem? (Inernal rack Cooler Master RA-USB-3035-IN USB 3.0)


----------



## bmgjet

I will be saying bye bye to my UD3 R1.0 tomorrow when I get a sabertooth R2.0.
Had enough of this board and has to of been the worst board iv even gotten for overclocking.


----------



## itsgucci

Ran into some problems with my D3 yesterday, came here to share my problem and its solution;
Tried pushing an 850 to 4,8ghz, PC didn't start. Removed battery, didn't work - said CMOS is corrupted or something like that and that it'll try flashing the main BIOS with the backup one, PC rebooted and the result was no monitor signal whatsoever.
Tried forcing backup BIOS to kick in by holding power & restart button, no result.
Solution; Shorted pins 1 & 6 on the main BIOS and powered up the PC for a sec or two, backup BIOS kicked in and everything is fine now.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I will be saying bye bye to my UD3 R1.0 tomorrow when I get a sabertooth R2.0.
> Had enough of this board and has to of been the worst board iv even gotten for overclocking.


i wouldn't bother with the sabertooth. If anything go for the Asus Crosshair V formula z. I have not had any issues with overclocking on the ud3.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i wouldn't bother with the sabertooth. If anything go for the Asus Crosshair V formula z. I have not had any issues with overclocking on the ud3.


until you go watercooling.... the vdroop on rev 1.0 boards is horrible... i set it on 1,48 volts, and under load, i got a vdroop to 1,42V and made my system instable...

Im also concidering in buying a new board if gigabyte makes a new amd board.


----------



## vonss

Anyone else notice that there is a new rev 3.0 of the UD3? What's the difference?
AFAIK there is no difference between the rev 1.1 and the rev 1.2. 'cept for the fact that comes with newer BIOS.


----------



## kzone75

I've never had vdroop on this mobo. I get "vboost" instead.


----------



## steezebe

I just upgraded from F3 to F7, and I actually got BETTER clocking results (at least cpu, haven't worked out the memory yet)

Now I'm getting 4329 MHz on a 955 Deneb. stable so far on 12 hrs pi test. This is awesome. and Maybe a little too aggressive... 1.504 V is a little filthy, but my voltages at least are stable.


----------



## Krahe

F10 bios is now out of beta for the UD7.


----------



## Mule

I have the UD5 - what's the 'c' for in F6? I went f5 to f9 but if I can clock higher for next to no effort I might as well. Downloading the f6 I found on gigabyte site now.

edit: UD3 oops, won;t be flashing that sucker.


----------



## utnorris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Anyone else notice that there is a new rev 3.0 of the UD3? What's the difference?
> AFAIK there is no difference between the rev 1.1 and the rev 1.2. 'cept for the fact that comes with newer BIOS.


UEFI.

http://www.techpowerup.com/174308/Gigabyte-Socket-AM3+-Motherboards-Get-UEFI-BIOS-Finally.html


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> UEFI.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/174308/Gigabyte-Socket-AM3+-Motherboards-Get-UEFI-BIOS-Finally.html
> Edited by utnorris - Today at 8:59 pm


ahh snap.

wondering when they were going to do that.


----------



## vonss

Bah, I'm old school and I prefer the normal BIOS.


----------



## paulwarden2505

I wonder how long until they release the UD5 and UD7 with UEFI


----------



## ionstorm66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> until you go watercooling.... the vdroop on rev 1.0 boards is horrible... i set it on 1,48 volts, and under load, i got a vdroop to 1,42V and made my system instable...
> Im also concidering in buying a new board if gigabyte makes a new amd board.


1.48 to 1.42 vdroop is really really good. Most motherboards with LLC don't even get close to that, and they have the positive voltage spike, which can be just as bad. Just manually add more voltage so your voltage is where you want it under heavy load, that is standard practice when running under water. Just make sure you aren't burning up your VRM with heat.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ionstorm66*
> 
> 1.48 to 1.42 vdroop is really really good. Most motherboards with LLC don't even get close to that, and they have the positive voltage spike, which can be just as bad. Just manually add more voltage so your voltage is where you want it under heavy load, that is standard practice when running under water. Just make sure you aren't burning up your VRM with heat.


im not that happy with it. on idle voltages, or under load without a drop, is still do have a voltage of 1,47. its not a stable voltage on 1,42V, so i cant just turn it up. the effective voltage at 1,51 volts wil be i believe somewhere in the vicinity of 1,44/1,45 volts, with spikes to its normal voltage of 1,5V.
does anybody know how far i can turn my 8150 up to with a voltage of 1,45V? because thats how far i can get without blowing my cpu up (if 1,51V is a safe voltage. i hope it can do higher, but i havent researched that yet)

I'm also not happy with turning my busspeed up, because my vengeance memory wont allow overclocking -_- i hate that memory but it looks so good. i can only play with my cpu voltage and my cpu multiplier. or are there other voltages that i need to worry about? i have lost the art of overclocking a bit... i didnt go as deep with this cpu as i did with my athlon 2 x4 640.


----------



## blacklion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> F10 bios is now out of beta for the UD7.


Also V11 for UD5 ...


----------



## steezebe

Investigating the windows 8 upgrade and I find from the upgrade program that:
Quote:


> "Secure boot requires firmware that supports UEFI v2.3.1 Errata B and has the Microsoft Windows Certification Authority in the UEFI signature database"


1) This is referring to the order and space in which windows components are loaded, correct?

2) Is secure boot worth it?

3) Do any BIOS'es for these boards have this UEFI 2.3.1b version??


----------



## Fordox

the ga-990fxa series dont have a UEFI yet. only the new rev 3.x versions do.


----------



## omninmo

Need some help plz!

In my research over which value board to buy for overclocking an 8320, I stumped into a couple questions, so if anyone can help me out id appreciate some answers!

1 - i was leaning on a rev 1.2 or 3.0 UD3 but I saw a few people saying that its VRM heatsink was insufficient for a heavily OCed 8xxx cpu and it might catch on fire ?
2 - does the UD5 have newer/better VRMs/power management than the UD3?
3 - does the UD5 have LLC? if so, which revisions? Giga's website only shows 1.x unlike the UD3 which shows 1.0, 1.1, 1.2 and 3.0..

basically, will I be safe trying to OC a 8320 upto 4.8 ~ 5.0Ghz with a UD3 or must i cough up the extra cash and get a UD5 or a sabertooth? =\ UD7 is definitely out of my budget


----------



## Fordox

no the vrm's on the ud3 boards are really cool. it is comparable to the cpu temp, and your vrm's may go higher.

al the boards since rev 1.1 have llc on board. only the rev 1.0 doesn't (on the ud3).
and as far as i've seen here, the rev 1.1 and 1.2 of the ud3 board does the best overclocking.


----------



## omninmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> no the vrm's on the ud3 boards are really cool. it is comparable to the cpu temp, and your vrm's may go higher.
> al the boards since rev 1.1 have llc on board. only the rev 1.0 doesn't (on the ud3).
> and as far as i've seen here, the rev 1.1 and 1.2 of the ud3 board does the best overclocking.


even when pushing 1.5v+ for an FX 8320 @ 4.8+Ghz?


----------



## Fordox

yes the vrm's will hold and stay relativly cool.


----------



## Fordox

pffff I cant seem to get even 4,5 ghz stable under prime, it gives hardware failure errors with 200x22.5 with a set voltage of 1,48 volts. I have seen voltage drops to 1,408 in cpu-z. its really bad with working without LLC and under water...

I'm going to try to set 1,51V in the bios next week and see how far i can get from there.


----------



## Mokona512

I was wondering is it even possible to get a UEFI on a 990fxa-UD3 version that is less than 3.0 or is the flash storage not large enough to hold a UEFI?

PS I feel that the 990fxa boards would overclock much better if they allowed you to adjust the CPU voltage in smaller increments than 50mv steps.


----------



## Fordox

nope, the whole bios chip itself must be replaced with an UEFI one. bios does not exist on such a board and won't run UEFI if it did...


----------



## bmgjet

Cant say it for 1.1 and higher UD3 but my VRM on my 1.0 were getting up to 80C with active cooling.
When I had the 8120 in it was shutting its self down and took my awhile to figure out why, VRMs were going over 100C and turning the PC off.

With the 8350 they were a little cooler getting up to 75C with active cooling since the 83XX uses less current.
There is no onboard temp sensor so I was using a infared gun. But with water cooling the socket temp is close to the VRM temp.
Socket temp was 4C cooler and core temp was 10C cooler then socket temp.


----------



## steezebe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omninmo*
> 
> Need some help plz!
> In my research over which value board to buy for overclocking an 8320, I stumped into a couple questions, so if anyone can help me out id appreciate some answers!
> 1 - i was leaning on a rev 1.2 or 3.0 UD3 but I saw a few people saying that its VRM heatsink was insufficient for a heavily OCed 8xxx cpu and it might catch on fire ?
> 2 - does the UD5 have newer/better VRMs/power management than the UD3?
> 3 - does the UD5 have LLC? if so, which revisions? Giga's website only shows 1.x unlike the UD3 which shows 1.0, 1.1, 1.2 and 3.0..
> basically, will I be safe trying to OC a 8320 upto 4.8 ~ 5.0Ghz with a UD3 or must i cough up the extra cash and get a UD5 or a sabertooth? =\ UD7 is definitely out of my budget


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omninmo*
> 
> even when pushing 1.5v+ for an FX 8320 @ 4.8+Ghz?


Not possible. Here's a VERY good explination:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1301999/gigabyte-990fxa-bios-flash-to-vrm-mos-protection-issue/0_60#post_18084613

The second post, summarized, says that for my specific overclock of 1 G at the time used only ~50% of the max cap output, making overheating rather impossible for stock heatsinks.


----------



## Particle

Is anyone having much luck with a revision 1.0 UD3 using Vishera? Vcore adjustments don't seem to work for me on F9e or F9 final. I can boot into Windows and run passes of Cinebench repeatedly at 4.6 GHz using stock voltage (1.35). I then tried 4.7 and it quickly died. I then tried 1.375, 1.40, 1.425, 1.45, and finally 1.475 and none of them made the system behave any differently. I'm not convinced the board is actually doing anything when I set the voltage. There aren't any readily accessible points to check with my DMM on the top of the board at least to confirm.

I previously had no problems when playing with Zambezi. The 8120 I have happily did 4.6 GHz at 1.475V with stability.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mokona512*
> 
> I was wondering is it even possible to get a UEFI on a 990fxa-UD3 version that is less than 3.0 or is the flash storage not large enough to hold a UEFI?
> PS I feel that the 990fxa boards would overclock much better if they allowed you to adjust the CPU voltage in smaller increments than 50mv steps.


It would be really nice detail for us owners of the previous rev's to get a update with UEFI, otherwise is like saying "we don't give a crap about our costumers"
I agree with the voltage bit aswell.


----------



## omninmo

Hey folks, need some more info plz

What BIOS usually ships with new UD5s or UD3s these days?

Will I need an older AM3 cpu just to flash F9 before i can use the 8320? :S


----------



## Fordox

I don't believe that the first batch of the piledriver ready boards are in the stores now.
it takes some time to sell the older ones by the retailers, and then they order new ones, and i believe that there are also enough boards by gigabyte on the shelf with not the most recent bios update.

so don't count on it that its piledriver ready.


----------



## omninmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> I don't believe that the first batch of the piledriver ready boards are in the stores now.
> it takes some time to sell the older ones by the retailers, and then they order new ones, and i believe that there are also enough boards by gigabyte on the shelf with not the most recent bios update.
> so don't count on it that its piledriver ready.


sure enough, i thought as much, but will it POST and allow me to flash the updated BIOS or will I have to get someone to borrow me an older AM3 chip?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> sure enough, i thought as much, but will it POST and allow me to flash the updated BIOS or will I have to get someone to borrow me an older AM3 chip?


if you still have that phenom 2 in your sig that will work. It doesn't have to be am3 cpu, just any cpu that the board supports.


----------



## omninmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> if you still have that phenom 2 in your sig that will work. It doesn't have to be am3 cpu, just any cpu that the board supports.


Phenom 2 940 i currently own wont work on an am3 board, it was first gen, lacks ddr3 controller, unlike later am3 denebs that have both controllers and hence are backwards compatible
But anyway, im going to interpret this as a yes, ill need to borrow a cpu :'(


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Phenom 2 940 i currently own wont work on an am3 board, it was first gen, lacks ddr3 controller, unlike later am3 denebs that have both controllers and hence are backwards compatible
> But anyway, im going to interpret this as a yes, ill need to borrow a cpu :'(


ya you will need to borrow a cpu. If your phenom 2 doesn't support ddr3. (thought they all did) but aparently the am2+ ones don't


----------



## ionstorm66

The 940's are Deneb with bad DDR3 IMC's, and won't work in a AM3 board. They only have a AM2+ pin set. The board should come with a new enough bios to flash it. If not Gigabyte has awesome service. You can do a RMA and they will flash it.


----------



## Obfuscator

Are there any fellow GA-990FXA-UD5 users out there that have upgraded their BIOS to F10 or F11 yet? If anyone has tried one of those BIOS revisions, please post your experiences.


----------



## rawsteel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obfuscator*
> 
> Are there any fellow GA-990FXA-UD5 users out there that have upgraded their BIOS to F10 or F11 yet? If anyone has tried one of those BIOS revisions, please post your experiences.


Im still using F10 Beta for some reason but had no issues with it


----------



## Obfuscator

Thanks for your feedback.


----------



## Ghostbusters

I have a question with the 8350. My board temps for my UD3 REV. 1.0 are reading 12-18c at idle and under full load 55-62c with temp. monitoring programs. BIOS has them at 32-36 idle. Is anyone else experience huge discrepancies in temps? I might RMA my board cause I think it might be burning up my components since that discrepency would put my load temps over 70c. I have switched out almost everything and stripped down to basic components to see if it would help. Have now used two different HSF, a Noctua and a Gelid tranquillo to see if it would do anything. What is Gigabyte's RMA process like? I have read it has got a lot better then it was.


----------



## stickg1

AMD FX chips use a formula for temperature that are only accurate under load. So your chip doesn't actually idle lower than ambient temperature as that is physically impossible. You BIOS temps are correct, and your load temps are correct. This is the same for every person that owns an FX chip.


----------



## Ghostbusters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> AMD FX chips use a formula for temperature that are only accurate under load. So your chip doesn't actually idle lower than ambient temperature as that is physically impossible. You BIOS temps are correct, and your load temps are correct. This is the same for every person that owns an FX chip.


Yes, I know it is physically impossible to have lower temps then ambient. Question is the huge discrepencies between 3 or 4 diffent temp monitoring programs and my BIOS reading. Which would put load temps really high if it is indeed around a 20c difference between the two. I have no idea why or how it is happening. I am at stock speeds and it shouldn't fluctuate as it does.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> AMD FX chips use a formula for temperature that are only accurate under load. So your chip doesn't actually idle lower than ambient temperature as that is physically impossible. You BIOS temps are correct, and your load temps are correct. This is the same for every person that owns an FX chip.


don't use core temp.

On your gigabyte board just go by tmpin1 its accurate. I don't trust the core temp reading. Although under load its the same temp as Tmpin1 usually. Core temp is wonky and i don't trust it.


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obfuscator*
> 
> Are there any fellow GA-990FXA-UD5 users out there that have upgraded their BIOS to F10 or F11 yet? If anyone has tried one of those BIOS revisions, please post your experiences.


My v1.0 is running great on f11 so far. Overclocks still stable, etc.


----------



## stickg1

I'm not really sure how you get the 20c difference you speak of. I didn't see anything showing that in your first post. Your idle temps are normal and your load temps are normal.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> don't use core temp.
> On your gigabyte board just go by tmpin1 its accurate. I don't trust the core temp reading. Although under load its the same temp as Tmpin1 usually. Core temp is wonky and i don't trust it.


For me it is tmpin2.
just go with the hottest one.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> For me it is tmpin2.
> just go with the hottest one.


That is the northbridge

Tmpin0 Motherboard temp
Tmpin1 Cpu Temp
Tmpin2 Northbridge


----------



## Ghostbusters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> don't use core temp.
> On your gigabyte board just go by tmpin1 its accurate. I don't trust the core temp reading. Although under load its the same temp as Tmpin1 usually. Core temp is wonky and i don't trust it.


Ok, I will double check these when I get home but I am almost certain they are in the high 60C range. Would a water cooling solution help bring these temps down? I do a lot of intensive CPU programs and don't feel comfortable with those high of temps running 2-3 hrs a day.


----------



## Shaving Kiwi

Guys, how's the performance regarding SATA 3.0? I might buy one of these and I have an OCZ Vertex 4 256gb.

I know generally AMD controllers are a little bit worse than Intel's, but don't know how this motherboard performs in particular.

Thanks


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Guys, how's the performance regarding SATA 3.0? I might buy one of these and I have an OCZ Vertex 4 256gb.
> 
> I know generally AMD controllers are a little bit worse than Intel's, but don't know how this motherboard performs in particular.
> 
> Thanks


Sata performance is close to intels.

I get about 500mbps read on my mushkin chronos drive, max speed is rated at 520mbps


----------



## TheBean

IT'S NOT physically impossible to have lower temps then ambient.
eg . a spoon or potato peeler in a draw on a warm day can be cooler than ambient temp . so can shampoo, toothpaste, socks , pens .. the list goes on

people seem to think all cpus / coolers / bits of metal 'just are' at ambient temp but its false
another eg. my nuts are cooler than ambient and coolest place on my body, my bodies job is to keep them cool on a hot day even if the stuff around them are warm, just like what a cpu cooler does for a cpu


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> That is the northbridge
> Tmpin0 Motherboard temp
> Tmpin1 Cpu Temp
> Tmpin2 Northbridge


My coretemps in amd overdrive are exactly the ones that the tmpin2 gives to me.
i also first did think it was tmpin1, but that was with my old athlon 2, with the same reason i believe its now tmpin2. a bit weird.

and i also find it hard to believe that my cpu is 45 degrees under load on 4,5ghz with 1,46V under water. i think it is now 60 degrees, because that is what tmpin2 gives me.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> My coretemps in amd overdrive are exactly the ones that the tmpin2 gives to me.
> i also first did think it was tmpin1, but that was with my old athlon 2, with the same reason i believe its now tmpin2. a bit weird.
> 
> and i also find it hard to believe that my cpu is 45 degrees under load on 4,5ghz with 1,46V under water. i think it is now 60 degrees, because that is what tmpin2 gives me.


i am not guessing, that is per gigabyte tech support.

Tmpin0 Motherboard temp
Tmpin1 Cpu Temp
Tmpin2 Northbridge

it was debated to death in this very thread pages and pages back.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBean*
> 
> IT'S NOT physically impossible to have lower temps then ambient.
> eg . a spoon or potato peeler in a draw on a warm day can be cooler than ambient temp . so can shampoo, toothpaste, socks , pens .. the list goes on
> people seem to think all cpus / coolers / bits of metal 'just are' at ambient temp but its false
> another eg. my nuts are cooler than ambient and coolest place on my body, my bodies job is to keep them cool on a hot day even if the stuff around them are warm, just like what a cpu cooler does for a cpu


Actually you're wrong. The items you mentioned may seem cooler than ambient at times, and that is only because they got cooler when the ambient temperature was cooler. It takes a while for them to reach the temperature of the current ambient. And since ambient temperature changes frequently these changes in temperature become more noticeable. As for your nuts, your bodies job is to keep them as close to 98.6F as possible. That is why they move closed to your body when the Ambient air temp is cool and farther from your body on a hot day when you are sweating and heating up. You nuts are never ambient air temperature, and the only time they would be below ambient temp is if it is hotter than 99F outside.

Also your CPU cooler comes in direct contact with the CPU, unless your CPU is off it will never be within a few degrees of ambient unless you have a phase change system like you would find a freezer or refrigerator, or have liquid nitrogen or dry ice on it. It's simple physics. Your motherboard runs an electrical current through your CPU. Being that the heatspreader is made of metal this will mean your CPU also generates heat. As long as the computer is on your CPU generates heat. Your motherboard does't have a temperature sensor inside of the CPU. Intel or AMD provide a formula within the chip to guestimate the current temperature. Nine times out of Ten this reading is more accurate under load because that is when it is important to know the temperature. Right now my FX-8320 says it is 11c, but I know that's impossible because it is 20c inside my house.


----------



## Desertegl

Hi everyone!!

New member here, Been the owner of a ga-990fxa-ud3 (rev1.0) for some time now. Heck this board has traveled 1600mi with me when I moved. I'm in need of some help so I'll list some of my specs first and hope for an answer...









CPU: AMD FX-4100
GPU: GTX 560Ti
PSU: Corsair 650
Memory:
(1) http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/khx1600c9d3k2_8gx.pdf
(2) http://www.patriotmemory.com/product/specs/PV38G160C9K.pdf

This is the bit I need help with. For a while I just had set number 1, and for a while I had it running at 1333mhz not knowing any better. Then I thought why the heck not bump it up to 1666mhz, so I looked at the spec sheet, set the memory timings to 9-9-9-27 @ 1.65v and bam I had it booted up and running at the new, faster speed.

Then I received the second kit from a friend (brand new might I add). I went into the bios and set everything to auto-detect and NOTHING. I cannot get my system to book with both these kits (no matter the hardware configuration I try). Is there some trick to this? Some setting I must apply first? I did verify that the system will boot with EITHER of these two kits ALONE so it cannot be bad memory. I just have a feeling it has something to do with the voltage...

Any input is greatly appreciated as I've been trying to get this to work for far too long.

Thanks very much,

-Fabio


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i am not guessing, that is per gigabyte tech support.
> Tmpin0 Motherboard temp
> Tmpin1 Cpu Temp
> Tmpin2 Northbridge
> it was debated to death in this very thread pages and pages back.


The TMPIN1 is the CPU SOCKET.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostbusters*
> 
> Ok, I will double check these when I get home but I am almost certain they are in the high 60C range. Would a water cooling solution help bring these temps down? I do a lot of intensive CPU programs and don't feel comfortable with those high of temps running 2-3 hrs a day.


No need for water cooling, just remove the shïtty TIM it comes with and put a proper one and also, if that still dosen't satisfy you, get a proper aftermarket HS for it, the one it comes with is a joke. Everyone gets those high temps in the NB with the default HS.
That NB chipset is like a GPU temp-wise, the max safe temp is 80C. (From Gigabyte's tech support)
Of course the lower the better, but is not possible unless you get a aftermarket HS and have a 120-140mm fan on your side panel blowing the crap out of it.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Desertegl*
> 
> Hi everyone!!
> New member here, Been the owner of a ga-990fxa-ud3 (rev1.0) for some time now. Heck this board has traveled 1600mi with me when I moved. I'm in need of some help so I'll list some of my specs first and hope for an answer...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU: AMD FX-4100
> GPU: GTX 560Ti
> PSU: Corsair 650
> Memory:
> (1) http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/khx1600c9d3k2_8gx.pdf
> (2) http://www.patriotmemory.com/product/specs/PV38G160C9K.pdf
> This is the bit I need help with. For a while I just had set number 1, and for a while I had it running at 1333mhz not knowing any better. Then I thought why the heck not bump it up to 1666mhz, so I looked at the spec sheet, set the memory timings to 9-9-9-27 @ 1.65v and bam I had it booted up and running at the new, faster speed.
> Then I received the second kit from a friend (brand new might I add). I went into the bios and set everything to auto-detect and NOTHING. I cannot get my system to book with both these kits (no matter the hardware configuration I try). Is there some trick to this? Some setting I must apply first? I did verify that the system will boot with EITHER of these two kits ALONE so it cannot be bad memory. I just have a feeling it has something to do with the voltage...
> Any input is greatly appreciated as I've been trying to get this to work for far too long.
> Thanks very much,
> -Fabio


I don't think you will ever make that work... you are using two different speed rated sticks, maybe if they were the same specs...
Try them in single-channel or you will have to get a second of either to make it work.


----------



## Desertegl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I don't think you will ever make that work... you are using two different speed rated sticks, maybe if they were the same specs...
> Try them in single-channel or you will have to get a second of either to make it work.


Just to clarify each kit has 2 x 4GB sticks. So at first I had 2 sticks and now I'm trying to use all slots (4 sticks) for 16gb total (4 x 4GB). I'm sad by this conclusion, there much be a way...


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i am not guessing, that is per gigabyte tech support.
> Tmpin0 Motherboard temp
> Tmpin1 Cpu Temp
> Tmpin2 Northbridge
> it was debated to death in this very thread pages and pages back.


But why does AMD overdrive say something else?
I don't want to blow up my cpu.

edit: here is a screen under full load.

my tmpin2 temps fluctuate a lot and fast, faster than my tmpin1. if I overclock, the tmpin1 as the tmpin2 got higher, and both dropped down significantly after installing watercooling and removing 6 fans with it.

how hot can my NB get without overheating, and what can i do to change the nb temps, will a reseat work?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> But why does AMD overdrive say something else?
> I don't want to blow up my cpu.
> edit: here is a screen under full load.
> 
> my tmpin2 temps fluctuate a lot and fast, faster than my tmpin1. if I overclock, the tmpin1 as the tmpin2 got higher, and both dropped down significantly after installing watercooling and removing 6 fans with it.
> how hot can my NB get without overheating?
> edit2: I just saw that my cpu cores are just as hot under load as tmpin1, but at idle it's impossible because they are ~7 degrees.


Link for what TMPIN temps are.

According to Gigabyte T/S the north bridge chips on the UD3/5/7 where tested all the way up to 80c without failure.

EDIT: typo on my behalf, Max tested temp is 80c not 85c









Ninja edited lol. To answer your other question, CPU-NB voltage and MHZ will have an effect on that, CPU overclocking might, pending on how you overclock.


----------



## ebduncan

thanks khaotic I was looking for that link ;-)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> thanks khaotic I was looking for that link ;-)


NP. Just google "UD3 TMPIN" and its like the 3-4 on down lol


----------



## Fordox

I can hardly believe that my cpu is 45 degrees under load, but if you say so, nice








I only overclock with the cpu voltage and the multiplier. i can't overclock with busspeeds, because my ram kant handle it -_-

so i can overclock a lot further than i had expected. and why is my NB cooler now i have installed watercooling?

I still find it weird that my cpu cores in amd overdrive are exactly the same as the tmpin2 temperature... anyone else has this issue?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> I can hardly believe that my cpu is 45 degrees under load, but if you say so, nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i can overclock a lot further than i had expected. and why is my NB cooler now i have installed watercooling?
> I still find it weird that my cpu cores in amd overdrive are exactly the same as the tmpin2 temperature... anyone else has this issue?


AMD OverDrive is pretty useless for motherboard and CPU monitoring, and commonly gives poor readings on the UD3/5/7 boards. On mine AMD OD reads the CPU at 10c higher.
I suggest using Open Hardware Monitor or Hardware Monitor to keep tabs on temps, but you should try most of the free temp monitor programs.

I would assume that the temp on the NB is due to better flow in that area. Think about it, no more tower cooler/CPU cooler to block it off from air flow.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> AMD OverDrive is pretty useless for motherboard and CPU monitoring, and commonly gives poor readings on the UD3/5/7 boards. On mine AMD OD reads the CPU at 10c higher.
> I suggest using Open Hardware Monitor or Hardware Monitor to keep tabs on temps, but you should try most of the free temp monitor programs.
> I would assume that the temp on the NB is due to better flow in that area. Think about it, no more tower cooler/CPU cooler to block it off from air flow.


i allways use hardware monitor, for allmost 2 years now, but i wasn't sure. my vcore voltage read-out in amd overdrive also doesn't make sense at all.
I think I am going to reseat the NB heatsink with better thermal paste. i have some gelid extreme an MX-4 laying around, so why not. (I do believe that the heatsink is attached with thermal paste and not with a thermalpad?)

Thanks for the help. why didn't gigabyte just name his sensors NB CPU and SYST


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> i allways use hardware monitor, for allmost 2 years now, but i wasn't sure. my vcore voltage read-out in amd overdrive also doesn't make sense at all.
> I think I am going to reseat the NB heatsink with better thermal paste. i have some gelid extreme an MX-4 laying around, so why not. (I do believe that the heatsink is attached with thermal paste and not with a thermalpad?)
> Thanks for the help. why didn't gigabyte just name his sensors NB CPU and SYST


Np, Nothing can hurt from changing the paste, and yes. Its paste. Not a Thermal Pad. I use OpenHardwareMonitor(same has HM with more options.), CPU-z and MSI Afterburn to monitor system temps and specs(speccy is nice too).

in my experience those programs have always worked bug free on a wide range of systems.

They are labeled properly in the included software monitor program.. just happens to suck so nobody use's it.


----------



## Particle

If it makes you any more confident, I replaced all thermal interfaces on my 990FXA-UD3 with Ceramique 2 when I first got my board. That includes both NB and SB along with VRM. Replacing thermal pads with paste -can- potentially make it worse in areas with large gaps (ie heatsinks that cover groups of different parts that aren't all flat). Just keep that in mind. It's also worth noting that how good a paste is varies with how thick the material is. W-mK doesn't tell the entire story. PK-1 is a great paste when the layer is flat and thin. If the layer is thicker and/or uneven, Shin-Etsu X23-7783D outperforms it.


----------



## johnniedoo

I LIKE THE COMPARISON OF THE CPU TO A BODY PART. I , PERSONALLY , WOULD HAVE CHOSEN A BRAIN, OR CORTEX, BUT THAT WOULDNT HAVE ILLUSTRATED YOUR POINT QUITE AS GRAPHICALLY.
THANKS
JOHN


----------



## Fordox

riight...

I'm changing my paste on fryday, I let you know about the results








i also allways use afterburner. i am just a coolfreak, i can't compute without monitoring programs


----------



## ionstorm66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> If it makes you any more confident, I replaced all thermal interfaces on my 990FXA-UD3 with Ceramique 2 when I first got my board. That includes both NB and SB along with VRM. Replacing thermal pads with paste -can- potentially make it worse in areas with large gaps (ie heatsinks that cover groups of different parts that aren't all flat). Just keep that in mind. It's also worth noting that how good a paste is varies with how thick the material is. W-mK doesn't tell the entire story. PK-1 is a great paste when the layer is flat and thin. If the layer is thicker and/or uneven, Shin-Etsu X23-7783D outperforms it.


Replacing thermal pads with paste, is a *really, really bad idea.* Thermal paste only work for a short time. The paste will either harden and shrink, or flow away from the contact point, leaving you with VRM's that aren't being cooled. That equates to a board that shuts off under load, if you are lucky. It can also cause the board to fail, possibly taking your entire rig with it.

Thermal pads are used for a reason, it holds it's shape. Thermal paste is used, because it doesn't hold its shape.

What you can do is get the nice thermal pads to replace it, and put some nice electrically-non conductive thermal paste on both contact points.


----------



## Particle

Using paste instead of a pad _can_ be a bad idea as even I outlined, but none of your reasons apply to my situation. Pads are used when heatsinking multiple objects that aren't mounted flat or don't have a flat surface. They're also sometimes used for economic reasons. That is the end of the story. Saying paste can't do a good job in these situations is silly given the half-century of electronics manufacturing that shows otherwise. The bottom line is that pads are better for large voids and pastes are better for good (ie flat with decent pressure) junctions. If you use a paste, pick a quality one. Good ones don't dry out even after years of use.


----------



## ionstorm66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> Using paste instead of a pad _can_ be a bad idea as even I outlined, but none of your reasons apply to my situation. Pads are used when heatsinking multiple objects that aren't mounted flat or don't have a flat surface. They're also sometimes used for economic reasons. That is the end of the story. Saying paste can't do a good job in these situations is silly given the half-century of electronics manufacturing that shows otherwise. The bottom line is that pads are better for large voids and pastes are better for good (ie flat with decent pressure) junctions. If you use a paste, pick a quality one. Good ones don't dry out even after years of use.


On my 890FX, 990FX, and z68 boards the VRM heatsink doesn't contact well with the VRMs. There is a gap between them. While the gap isn't large (~0.5m), it is too large of a gap for thermal paste(>0.1mm). Thus a thermal pad is used. The main reason the heat sink does not contact the VRM's is the make a huge amount of heat, this causes the board to expand and contract. The VRM are fixed to the board, unlike the CPU and its socket plus back plate. Go look at the Xbox 360 red ring problem.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> On my 890FX, 990FX, and z68 boards the VRM heatsink doesn't contact well with the VRMs. There is a gap between them. While the gap isn't large (~0.5m), it is too large of a gap for thermal paste(>0.1mm). Thus a thermal pad is used. The main reason the heat sink does not contact the VRM's is the make a huge amount of heat, this causes the board to expand and contract. The VRM are fixed to the board, unlike the CPU and its socket plus back plate. Go look at the Xbox 360 red ring problem.


i think you mean warp not expand. If the motherboard expanded much it would break electrical traces through out the board.

The heatsinks on the Gigabyte VRMs for the 990FXA boards are flat, and make direct contact with the VRMS. Use thermal paste if you would like.

Thermal pads are just easier to work with.


----------



## Horusrogue

Hey guys!
I just got a 990FXA-UD3 and am trying to get GSKILL SNIPER 8GB 1866 to run natively AT 1866 in dual channel. They currently run at 1600 and give me a "failed to boot due to overclock" message. Gigabyte support said to flash to rev F9 due to support for the 8320....but is this going to fix a limitation on my ram (as in, will it only run two sticks of 1866 single channel?)


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Hey guys!
> I just got a 990FXA-UD3 and am trying to get GSKILL SNIPER 8GB 1866 to run natively AT 1866 in dual channel. They currently run at 1600 and give me a "failed to boot due to overclock" message. Gigabyte support said to flash to rev F9 due to support for the 8320....but is this going to fix a limitation on my ram (as in, will it only run two sticks of 1866 single channel?)


disable c1e in bios.

and try again. If it doesn't work, then make sure your memory are in the correct slots for dual channel mode.


----------



## Fordox

pfff I hate the pushpins on the NBheatsink -_- I couldn't remove them without my board out of the case, I couldn't reach 1 pin from the CPU cut-out, and even the one that I do have room for to remove, was very difficult to remove with pliers... i left it and did nothing against it.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horusrogue*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I just got a 990FXA-UD3 and am trying to get GSKILL SNIPER 8GB 1866 to run natively AT 1866 in dual channel. They currently run at 1600 and give me a "failed to boot due to overclock" message. Gigabyte support said to flash to rev F9 due to support for the 8320....but is this going to fix a limitation on my ram (as in, will it only run two sticks of 1866 single channel?)


Are you using the XMP profile? that should modify settings for you to make it work without any issues.
On this MoBo is like this: 4/2/3/1 (right to left). Place the sticks accordingly.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Are you using the XMP profile? that should modify settings for you to make it work without any issues.
> On this MoBo is like this: 4/2/3/1 (right to left). Place the sticks accordingly.


xmp on an AMD motherboard..?


----------



## spypet

I just got the UD5 new net cost of $129 from Newegg for this $800 budget gamer build:

CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black 3.4GHz Quad-Core
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 REV 1.1
Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 (30nm 1.35v)
Storage: OCZ Agility 4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (OS/Apps)
Storage: Western Digital AV-GP 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Data/Backups)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC 2GB
Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower +140mm on Side
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS90 DVD/CD Writer
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)

I'll post my results over the weekend - I'm hoping for a stable 4.2-4.4ghz 1760mhz overclock.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> xmp on an AMD motherboard..?


Yes, like I currently using the XMP for 1600.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Yes, like I currently using the XMP for 1600.


AMD has something else than XMP. it works about the same, but it isn't called XMP.

I believe it was E.O.C.P.


----------



## ebduncan

Well kind of.

Easy Over Clock Profile is EOCP, not quite the same as XMP.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> I just got the UD5 new net cost of $129 from Newegg for this $800 budget gamer build:
> CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black 3.4GHz Quad-Core
> CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing
> Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5
> Memory: Samsung 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600
> Storage: OCZ Agility 4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk (OS/Apps)
> Storage: Western Digital AV-GP 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive (Data/Backups)
> Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC 2GB
> Case: NZXT Source 210 (Black) ATX Mid Tower
> Power Supply: Corsair Builder 430W 80 PLUS Certified ATX12V
> Optical Drive: LG GH24NS90 DVD/CD Writer
> Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)
> I'll post my results over the weekend - I'm hoping for a stable 4.2-4.4ghz 1760mhz overclock.


That should prove to be a pretty potent PC for the money spent. You should also have some great overclocking headroom, but 4.2-4.4 will be out of reach. That's getting into epic cooling/water cooling territory.

I'm most curious about the RAM. 965's have a weak IMC and the samsung ram LOVE to OC, Would love to know how that affects the overall overclocking of the system. Good luck!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I'm most curious about the RAM. 965's have a weak IMC and the samsung ram LOVE to OC, Would love to know how that affects the overall overclocking of the system. Good luck!


True about the integrated memory controller. Samsung ram is pretty good, well at least their 28nm stuff. Those low profile/low voltage dims are a steal right now. 40$ and overclocks well into the 2000's


----------



## moparman1303

Hey everyone i just wanted to post hello. I am new here and hope you guys can help me as i am new to OCin. I own a Gigabyte 990fx UD3.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moparman1303*
> 
> Hey everyone i just wanted to post hello. I am new here and hope you guys can help me as i am new to OCin. I own a Gigabyte 990fx UD3.


Post your rig hardware and OS spec's. Include cooling and the room temp. If its an AMD Phenom II (denab or Thuban) I can help you out. the hardest part will be finding what BIOS is stable.


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> I just got the UD5 new net cost of $129 from Newegg for this $800 budget gamer build:
> .....
> Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit)
> I'll post my results over the weekend - I'm hoping for a stable 4.2-4.4ghz 1760mhz overclock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> That should prove to be a pretty potent PC for the money spent. You should also have some great overclocking headroom, but 4.2-4.4 will be out of reach. That's getting into epic cooling/water cooling territory.
> I'm most curious about the RAM. 965's have a weak IMC and the samsung ram LOVE to OC, Would love to know how that affects the overall overclocking of the system. Good luck!


Yep. 4.0 is possible on great air, with a prime chip, and a very cool room. On water my 970 had to run 1.7vcore for 4.2. 4.4 on air would be insane if it was stable. Still interested in seeing your final OC. And you'll still have a killer rig.


----------



## stickg1

I had a 980BE that ran 4.2GHz on air with a Zalman CNPS9900MAX all day. Cant recall the temps because it was almost a year ago but it was nice! I was using a CHFV motherboard.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I had a 980BE that ran 4.2GHz on air with a Zalman CNPS9900MAX all day. Cant recall the temps because it was almost a year ago but it was nice! I was using a CHFV motherboard.


Such clocks speeds from a 95X on air cooling are rare. My UD3/955BE will pull 4.2 stable.. Needs a silver arrow with two SanAce 1011 (120x38mm 100CFM) to do it though. Both voltage and temps are still on the cusp of safe and unsafe. I need 1.55v core, 1.45CPU-NB and temps hang out at 55-61c on the cpu and 75-78 on the NB, in a cool room... Literally on the border of "safe" lol. It will do 4.0Ghz with much much better temps, voltage and much less cooling.


----------



## Horusrogue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> disable c1e in bios.
> and try again. If it doesn't work, then make sure your memory are in the correct slots for dual channel mode.


C1e toggling did nothing. Memory is being read perfectly in dual channel mode at 1600 vs 1866. Thanks for the attempt


----------



## Horusrogue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Are you using the XMP profile? that should modify settings for you to make it work without any issues.
> On this MoBo is like this: 4/2/3/1 (right to left). Place the sticks accordingly.


The provided profiles also fail to boot with the memory at 1866.

On another forum it recommended that I set the timings manually. Has anyone else had this problem?

Im running 2X4 GB of GSKILL SNIPER 1866 Modules.
*I would really like some help!!!!!*


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> The provided profiles also fail to boot with the memory at 1866.
> 
> On another forum it recommended that I set the timings manually. Has anyone else had this problem?
> 
> Im running 2X4 GB of GSKILL SNIPER 1866 Modules.
> I would really like some help!!!!!


set timing manually

and make sure your stick are either in slots 4 and 3, or 1 and 2. remember they are numbered 4/2/3/1. Be sure to set memory voltage as welll.

Also note make sure your northbridge and hypertransport stay within range of 2200.


----------



## spypet

Thanx for all the supportive feedback guys







my UD5 REV: 1.1 with Bios F9 arrived, and it seems to be semi stable at 4.25:1760cas9 which is around what I saw on the Asus 990X I recently tried so I'll keep tweaking a bit. with all 4 cores at 100% for a few hours, the CPU peaks at +40c over ambient on my air cooling. I don't think a bios update to F11 is warranted since this is such an old CPU.

219:19.5x is semi stable giving me about the same speed. Basically values that keep me closer to 4.2 are reliable, but once i push anywhere near 4.3 some applications may crash or i bluescreen. so i know how to get to 4.1 rock solid stable, so any suggestions how to achieve 4.2-4.3 more stable would be welcome.










I'll post a screen shot soon after many hours of prime95+heaven+CPUID so any skeptics can see this CPU:RAM:Mobo combination seems to join well at 215 19x for a solid 4.13ghz 1720cas9 +40c max on air netting wei 7.5.

hardware configuration;
http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/3800#post_18563569


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> Thanx for all the supportive feedback guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my UD5 REV: 1.1 with Bios F9 arrived, and it seems to be semi stable at 4.25:1760cas9 which is around what I saw on the Asus 990X I recently tried so I'll keep tweaking a bit. with all 4 cores at 100% for a few hours, the CPU peaks at +40c over ambient on my air cooling. I don't think a bios update to F11 is warranted since this is such an old CPU.
> 219:19.5x is semi stable giving me about the same speed. Basically values that keep me closer to 4.2 are reliable, but once i push anywhere near 4.3 some applications may crash or i bluescreen. so i know how to get to 4.1 rock solid stable, so any suggestions how to achieve 4.2-4.3 more stable would be welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post a screen shot soon after many hours of prime95+heaven+CPUID so any skeptics can see this CPU:RAM:Mobo combination seems to join well at 215 19x for a solid 4.13ghz 1720cas9 +40c max on air netting wei 7.5.
> hardware configuration;
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/3800#post_18563569


What is your CPU-NB at? On my 955BE I must have it at 2600+ or its unstable. what are ambient temps? if your +40c over ambiant you don't have much temp room.. These chips can handle 62c without damage however when overclocking stability is reduced after around 55-57c. Your almost out of "safe voltage" too. 1.55 get's kinda iffy on air but is still considered "safe".

How I got my 955BE to run smoothly (still a few minor quirks) is by running prime95 through all the FFT's on my 4.0Ghz overclock. The first time I went to 4.0 it wasn't actually stable so using those settings as a basis to hit higher never worked. 4.0Ghz is hard to hit on air with these phenom's. Over that is total golden chip territory.

Looks good though, keep at it!


----------



## spypet

I think the NB is running at 2200 so it's useful to know increasing that may aid stability during higher OC attempts - at the moment i want to spend today making certain 4.13 holds without any grief so i can use these settings as a solid base for which to push any higher. Here is 4 hours into a real World test - prime95 heaven utorrent all working while i watched last night's fringe episode and post to this forum. i know 24hrs of prime95 with workers on all cores is the burning stability gold standard, but i prefer testing for real use suitability for shorter durations so I can still use the computer i'm tormenting







as per your advice i added a case fan to exhaust hot recirculating air which bought me -4c (side-in, back-out)and may add a third fan (front-in) later so I can stay well under +35c (25c apt) ambient, which as you say should keep my OC on air more stable and preserve my CPU health.
_note: my new GPU is not in yet, so I'm using a 10% OC 9500GT as I'm waiting to see how the upcoming 7890 will lower 7870 pricing going into Thanksgiving weekend, so maybe i can afford a 7870 instead of my originally budgeted 7850 - don't worry my PSU can handle it - i already checked everything out with a KillOWatt and this current stage of build maxes out at 190w._


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> I think the NB is running at 2200 so it's useful to know increasing that may aid stability during higher OC attempts - at the moment i want to spend today making certain 4.13 holds without any grief so i can use these settings as a solid base for which to push any higher. Here is 4 hours into a real World test - prime95 heaven utorrent all working while i watched last night's fringe episode and post to this forum. i know 24hrs of prime95 with workers on all cores is the burning stability gold standard, but i prefer testing for real use suitability for shorter durations so I can still use the computer i'm tormenting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as per your advice i added a case fan to exhaust hot recirculating air which bought me -4c (side-in, back-out)and may add a third fan (front-in) later so I can stay well under +35c (25c apt) ambient, which as you say should keep my OC on air more stable and preserve my CPU health.
> _note: my new GPU is not in yet, so I'm using a 10% OC 9500GT as I'm waiting to see how the upcoming 7890 will lower 7870 pricing going into Thanksgiving weekend, so maybe i can afford a 7870 instead of my originally budgeted 7850 - don't worry my PSU can handle it - i already checked everything out with a KillOWatt and this current stage of build maxes out at 190w._
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yea, not only will upping the CPU-NB help with some stability but can also assist in performance across the board. This can also act as a band-aid for the weak IMC. Allowing for a little more breathing room on RAM overclocking. having a higher CPU-NB can also lessen the CPU bottle neck on high end set up's







I run mine at 2800, Over and performance start's to drop back down, but some system's gain great improvements all the way to 3000Mhz. Its a coin toss, 2600-2800 is the common range though.

Also a little bit of warning when overclocking the CPU-NB, The max safe voltage is around 1.45v-1.50v. Some say it can match your CPU Vcore but I wouldn't. Also watch temps as you add voltage the the CPU-NB, it will raise the CPU temps considerably. However having a higher CPU-NB voltage and freq might allow you to use less CPU Vcore









The AMD 7XXX cards OC like bests from what I have seen and heard, Good luck!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> note: my new GPU is not in yet, so I'm using a 10% OC 9500GT as I'm waiting to see how the upcoming 7890 will lower 7870 pricing going into Thanksgiving weekend, so maybe i can afford a 7870 instead of my originally budgeted 7850 - don't worry my PSU can handle it - i already checked everything out with a KillOWatt and this current stage of build maxes out at 190w.


I don't think the 7890 will lower the prices of the 7870's to much. maybe 20-30$ the 7850 is a good mid range card. About on par with the 6970 with the new 12.11 drivers.


----------



## spypet

*Khaotic* - I had NB on Auto < 2100, but when i tried 12x (made SB the same) for 2600 my mobo would not boot and i had to manually reset the CMOS with a screwdriver short circuit. When I tried it at 11x for 2400 math errors would be reported by prime95. now currently at 10x I'm over 2200 and trying a CPU bus frequency of 220 instead of 215 which I already know is stable. 220 2200 gets me closer to 4.2 1760 cas.9, so I'm currently up and testing using that setting and will report later today if it proves as stable as 215 Auto did. Anyway, if you can think of some other setting that may be destabilizing a faster NB/SB setting, feel free to speculate. If I see this 220 2200 is stable for a few hours of testing, I'll post a photograph of my Bios setting for you to consider. thanks for your time.

OK it's been 8 hours of throwing everything at my PC at the same time (prime95, heaven, youtube, utorrent, mmo games, video editing, system monitors, web browsing and forum posting), and not a single task failed while 4x100% topping out at +37c. so is there any more room for improvement or am i already pushing my luck -







here's what I know does NOT help me... x19.5 or x11 or 224 or cas10 or set RAM volts or set CPU volts - i push any of those settings and my PC eventually blue screens so I'm out of ideas on how to push this X4 965 any further beyond 4.18ghz 1760mhz cas.9 while on air.


----------



## Fordox

voltages on auto, clockspeed 4,2ghz, temp 37 degrees...

that seems quite impossible, which tempsensor do you read out?, or do you use watercooling?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> *OT:* I did the math on the 7890 vs the 7870 based on Avg FPS of a Dozen current games, and the conservative assumption that the 7890 will deliver 10% more net avg FPS than the 7870. the 7890 would have to price under $205 to provide a better $:FPS value than the 7870 you can get at $185, and we all know that's not going to happen. for the 7890 to compete with the 660ti it has to be price below $265 in terms of $:FPS value, which means a lot of recent factory over clocked 7870's still selling around $250 will have to fall a lot in price to make room for the 7890.
> so my educated guess is the high end 7870 cards will fall in price,
> but not much else will change on 7950 or 660/660ti card pricing.
> I would also state if the 7890 card is sold over $275 it will fail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as the far lower power consuming 660ti will be a better value.
> FYI: my "price" is net cost in the open market, not MSRP nonsense.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Khaotic* - I had NB on Auto < 2100, but when i tried 12x (made SB the same) for 2600 my mobo would not boot and i had to manually reset the CMOS with a screwdriver short circuit. When I tried it at 11x for 2400 math errors would be reported by prime95. now currently at 10x I'm over 2200 and trying a CPU bus frequency of 220 instead of 215 which I already know is stable. 220 2200 gets me closer to 4.2 1760 cas.9, so I'm currently up and testing using that setting and will report later today if it proves as stable as 215 Auto did. Anyway, if you can think of some other setting that may be destabilizing a faster NB/SB setting, feel free to speculate. If I see this 220 2200 is stable for a few hours of testing, I'll post a photograph of my Bios setting for you to consider. thanks for your time.
> OK it's been 8 hours of throwing everything at my PC at the same time (prime95, heaven, youtube, utorrent, mmo games, video editing, system monitors, web browsing and forum posting), and not a single task failed while 4x100% topping out at +37c. so is there any more room for improvement or am i already pushing my luck -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> here's what I know does NOT help me... x19.5 or x11 or 224 or cas10 or set RAM volts or set CPU volts - i push any of those settings and my PC eventually blue screens so I'm out of ideas on how to push this X4 965 any further beyond 4.18ghz 1760mhz cas.9 while on air.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


All voltage's on auto would bother me on overclocking. What did you set the CPU-NB voltage too? you have to raise the voltage to raise the clock speed







To run 2800 CPU-NB I need 1.35-1.40 volts pending on the CPU cooler I am using. For my 955BE the better cooling I have the less voltage I need on Vcore and CPU-NB for any given clock speed.

As for temps, what is your ambiant temp??

EDIT: sorry for the constant edits: also what voltage's are your RAM running at?

@ Fordox: He means +37c "Over ambiant" not 37c flat temp







that would be very impossible with his cooling system...

EDITx24596785: sorry, had to fix the miss spelling of your name.


----------



## spypet

Ambient is 25c, FANIN1 is 140mm, and NOT using auto voltage seems to destabilize my OC








ignore the max TMPIN# and max FANIN# speeds as they never got that high - it's a misread.


----------



## bmgjet

Something is wrong with your 3.3/5/12V rail.

Look at the min they drop way out of spec.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> Ambient is 25c, FANIN1 is 140mm, and NOT using auto voltage seems to destabilize my OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ignore the max TMPIN# and max FANIN# speeds as they never got that high - it's a misread.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your at the maximum temp that chip can handle. 62c on your core's. Looking at your Vcore it looks like its set to 1.52v in the BIOS but your getting VBoost too 1.55v. That's the maximum voltage you should safely use. You either need to find a way to use less voltage, or invest in better cooling before pushing onward.

Grats for maxing out your system







I say optimize your voltage now with the cooler you have while looking into how your going to improve it. For temp testing my rig I like to run IBT on max and let furmark go at the GPU @ 1080p. Full load on CPU and GPU, get the system nice and toasty


----------



## spypet

what value ranges for these manual settings should i be working between?
i have them left on auto for now - these values are just a manual example.
samsung ram can handle between 1.35-1.55v so i'm more concerned with
what my X4 965 step 3 should be working at;










*Khaotic* - using the information you have provided thus far i have increased
NB Volt from 1.10 to 1.12 and CPU volt -0.05v to lower temps and stress.
I can see how this lowers my peak CPU Volts under 1.5 and temps -4c.










I can't see raising the NB Frequency higher without new instability, sorry.
I tried higher NB Mhz with higher NB Volts and still had lots of problems.
It may work for your CPU:RAM combo, but it certainly does not help me.


----------



## pony-tail

I am looking for an air cooler for my UD3.

List of available coolers -

new file.doc 6k .doc file

I would prefer one that faces the rear of the case - not the top .
It has to cool a 8350 and out perform a Corsair H40 closed loop cooler.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I am looking for an air cooler for my UD3.
> 
> List of available coolers - new file.doc 6k .doc file
> I would prefer one that faces the rear of the case - not the top .
> It has to cool a 8350 and out perform a Corsair H40 closed loop cooler.


Buy a bigger radiator instead?


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Buy a bigger radiator instead?


I have had guys on here tell me that high end air coolers out perform these sealed unit watercoolers . I do not want to cut my case up ( Antec P183 rev 3 ) so a H100 is out of the question .


----------



## bmgjet

Antec 920 or H80.

High end air coolers perform the same as a 620 with the same fans on it,

H60/50/60/70 are all limited by there small coolant tubes and poor pump flow.


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Antec 920 or H80.
> High end air coolers perform the same as a 620 with the same fans on it,
> H60/50/60/70 are all limited by there small coolant tubes and poor pump flow.


Yeah BUT - which coolers ?
I have not bought an air cooler since the Thermalright TRUE , and they are no longer available .
The ones I have to choose from are here -

new file.doc 6k .doc file

I am in QLD Australia so I do not have the variety available to others on the forum .


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail*
> 
> Yeah BUT - which coolers ?
> I have not bought an air cooler since the Thermalright TRUE , and they are no longer available .
> The ones I have to choose from are here -
> 
> new file.doc 6k .doc file
> 
> I am in QLD Australia so I do not have the variety available to others on the forum .


My humble suggestion would be the Noctua NH-D14.


----------



## Fordox

NH-D14 or a thermalright silver arrow. both are great coolers.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I have had guys on here tell me that high end air coolers out perform these sealed unit watercoolers . I do not want to cut my case up ( Antec P183 rev 3 ) so a H100 is out of the question .


Externally mount a thick 240 radiator, or 360.

Would give you the best cooling performance. Using the h40 pump/cpu block.

if you want a high end air cooler here are some good ones

Phanteks PH-TC14PE, ECT Prometeia Mach2 GT, Noctua NH-D14


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail*
> 
> *I have had guys on here tell me that high end air coolers out perform these sealed unit watercoolers* . I do not want to cut my case up ( Antec P183 rev 3 ) so a H100 is out of the question .


Correct. High end air cooler's like the Silver Arrow(I love mine to death) or D-14, Phantek's, ect will out cool any of the current CLC's(Closed loop Cooler) but also make less noise while doing it.

Silver Arrow and D-14 being the overall best. Don't forget to look at noise when selecting a CPU cooler.

CLC's are useless unless you don't have the space for a traditional cooler. If I where to buy a new cooler right now this very second I wouldn't hesitate to nab another S/A but would prefer a RASA water kit for about $130 or so. The rasa's will beat the pants off *all cooler's and CLC's* until you get into Bong's, LN/LN2, or full blown custom water loops.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Correct. High end air cooler's like the Silver Arrow(I love mine to death) or D-14, Phantek's, ect will out cool any of the current CLC's(Closed loop Cooler) but also make less noise while doing it.
> 
> Silver Arrow and D-14 being the overall best. Don't forget to look at noise when selecting a CPU cooler.
> 
> CLC's are useless unless you don't have the space for a traditional cooler. If I where to buy a new cooler right now this very second I wouldn't hesitate to nab another S/A but would prefer a RASA water kit for about $130 or so. The rasa's will beat the pants off all cooler's and CLC's until you get into Bong's, LN/LN2, or full blown custom water loops.


Well yes and no.

The high end CLC's (Antec 920, Corsair H100,H80) Perform like the Highest end Air Coolers. Of Course the Custom Water loops strongly outperform these options. Bongs are old school i haven't seen one of those used in years. Most people these days just grab big enough radiators to perform the same. The High end CLC's are usually pretty quiet. At least my Antec 920 is, unless i go and max the fans out. With a custom water temp profile though load temps never go over 50c. On a Fx [email protected] 4.9ghz (1.45vcore).

CLC's have a nice advantage as you don't have to worry about dim clearance, and generally speaking exhaust the hot air out of your case. Which leads to lower ambient temps of other system items.

Some of the newest CLC's such as the h100I, and Nxzt Kraken x40/x60 With the X40 being a single 140mm and the X60 being 280mm radiator. All will out perform the highest end air coolers. Personally I think the Kraken looks Great.

Personally I am going full Custom loop well inching my way there anyways. Already have two 280mm radiators, Which I will be installing here soon. Will still use the Antec pump/water block, until i can a get a EK block and pump. Then my 7950 and motherboard will go under water as well. Slow process as money trickles in.

I


----------



## Fordox

Pfff I am still confused about the temps.
I dropped a question op the customer/technical support from gigabyte, and they say they read out the temps for the cpu with ET6, so i downloaded that.
It gives the same cpu temp as Tmpin2 does. (ET6 is a horrible program) so I still don't know for sure... just one post from a gigabyte moderator on the gigabyte forum isn't enough of an answer to me, because the GGTS says (indirectly) the oposite. Maybe I'm stubborn, but its quite important for me. i don't want to fry my cpu thinking that it has another sensor. under load, the temp difference is 20 degrees so i don't feel comfortable by just guessing and taking everything everyone says.

*sigh*

can also someone give me tips on removing the pushpins on the nb heatsink? i cant remove them without breaking them by just pinching the backside.
and has someone a suggestion how I can test which temps are which? i could do a repaste but I cant reach the NB and i don't want to drain my waterloop again. I also can't see any temp differences if I place a fan right on top of the NB heatsink.

I can't also test the difference with temps under load, because my water will heat up and won't cool down to the old point after about 30 mins. in that time, the roomtemperature has also dropped or raised. both the tmpin1 and tmpin2 temperatures will rise while overclocking.

I'm also thinking in buying a temps sensor. if that won't bring a conclusion, I will buy another board. I have had it with this one but it looks so good


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> Pfff I am still confused about the temps.
> I dropped a question op the customer/technical support from gigabyte, and they say they read out the temps for the cpu with ET6, so i downloaded that.
> It gives the same cpu temp as Tmpin2 does. (ET6 is a horrible program) so I still don't know for sure... just one post from a gigabyte moderator on the gigabyte forum isn't enough of an answer to me, because the GGTS says (indirectly) the oposite. Maybe I'm stubborn, but its quite important for me. i don't want to fry my cpu thinking that it has another sensor. under load, the temp difference is 20 degrees so i don't feel comfortable by just guessing and taking everything everyone says.
> *sigh*
> can also someone give me tips on removing the pushpins on the nb heatsink? i cant remove them without breaking them by just pinching the backside.
> and has someone a suggestion how I can test which temps are which? i could do a repaste but I cant reach the NB and i don't want to drain my waterloop again. I also can't see any temp differences if I place a fan right on top of the NB heatsink.
> I can't also test the difference with temps under load, because my water will heat up and won't cool down to the old point after about 30 mins. in that time, the roomtemperature has also dropped or raised. both the tmpin1 and tmpin2 temperatures will rise while overclocking.
> I'm also thinking in buying a temps sensor. if that won't bring a conclusion, I will buy another board. I have had it with this one but it looks so good


Have you tried Aida64? It reads all the sensors right on my UD5. You might see if your pushpins have metal pins that go into the top. A lot of push pin setups use a metal pin that goes into the middle to stiffen the plastic.


----------



## Fordox

my god now it's tempin1 again xD and it doesn't detect my NB temp. odd. But my bios wont show the NB temp sensor either, so I believe this program might have it correct. I will do a reseat for my NB though.
And no. they are entirely made of plastic with 2 steel springs on each pin. i already tried to push them back through by pinchin the other ends of the pushpin, without result. I see no other option than breaking them. Can I replace them with nuts, bolts and plastic washers?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> my god now it's tempin1 again xD and it doesn't detect my NB temp. odd. But my bios wont show the NB temp sensor either, so I believe this program might have it correct. I will do a reseat for my NB though.
> And no. they are entirely made of plastic with 2 steel springs on each pin. i already tried to push them back through by pinchin the other ends of the pushpin, without result. I see no other option than breaking them. Can I replace them with nuts, bolts and plastic washers?


you can use bolts and plastic washers. Few people on here do it to increase the seating pressure. I did it...

The plastic push pins are a pain in the ass. If you use a small set needle nose piers they don't give you to much fight.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> Pfff I am still confused about the temps.
> I dropped a question op the customer/technical support from gigabyte, and they say they read out the temps for the cpu with ET6, so i downloaded that.
> It gives the same cpu temp as Tmpin2 does. (ET6 is a horrible program) so I still don't know for sure... just one post from a gigabyte moderator on the gigabyte forum isn't enough of an answer to me, because the GGTS says (indirectly) the oposite. Maybe I'm stubborn, but its quite important for me. i don't want to fry my cpu thinking that it has another sensor. under load, the temp difference is 20 degrees so i don't feel comfortable by just guessing and taking everything everyone says.
> *sigh*
> can also someone give me tips on removing the pushpins on the nb heatsink? i cant remove them without breaking them by just pinching the backside.
> and has someone a suggestion how I can test which temps are which? i could do a repaste but I cant reach the NB and i don't want to drain my waterloop again. I also can't see any temp differences if I place a fan right on top of the NB heatsink.
> I can't also test the difference with temps under load, because my water will heat up and won't cool down to the old point after about 30 mins. in that time, the roomtemperature has also dropped or raised. both the tmpin1 and tmpin2 temperatures will rise while overclocking.
> I'm also thinking in buying a temps sensor. if that won't bring a conclusion, I will buy another board. I have had it with this one but it looks so good


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> my god now it's tempin1 again xD and it doesn't detect my NB temp. odd. But my bios wont show the NB temp sensor either, so I believe this program might have it correct. I will do a reseat for my NB though.
> And no. they are entirely made of plastic with 2 steel springs on each pin. i already tried to push them back through by pinchin the other ends of the pushpin, without result. I see no other option than breaking them. Can I replace them with nuts, bolts and plastic washers?


Make sure that you test a few(or all) of the temp programs you can. Some people have more issue that other's but it is common for some programs to botch temps. On my UD3 board I cannot use anything but OpenHardwareMonitor, All the other programs (too many to list...) give false reading's. HardWareMonitor reads my Timpin0 and 2 as high as 128c... on stock setting's, clocks and voltages with 100% stability.

I have always read the temp sensor's according to "said support fourm's" answer, Its been over a year 24/7 @3.8-4.0 depending on the time of year. I have to drop the clock's and voltage down a tad in the hot summer months or it will over heat. in that time it has had maybe a collective week of "off time. *Knock's on wood* Never had a single issue(BOSD, Crash, freeze or any other instability) that was a result of the temps, or overheating... and I beat the tar out of that PC("They Beat Me" in my sig rig). An accurate laser thermometer can help too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> you can use bolts and plastic washers. Few people on here do it to increase the seating pressure. I did it...
> The plastic push pins are a pain in the ass. If you use a small set needle nose piers they don't give you to much fight.


QFT on both accounts. +1.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> my god now it's tempin1 again xD and it doesn't detect my NB temp. odd. But my bios wont show the NB temp sensor either, so I believe this program might have it correct. I will do a reseat for my NB though.
> And no. they are entirely made of plastic with 2 steel springs on each pin. i already tried to push them back through by pinchin the other ends of the pushpin, without result. I see no other option than breaking them. Can I replace them with nuts, bolts and plastic washers?


 OHM.jpg 319k .jpg file


That's how your MoBO sensors should look and if you don't manage to remove the plastic clips without breaking them, just break them and replace them with proper screws (and while you do that, don't forget to replace the TIM for a proper one) IMO is something that everyone should do (I know I will very soon)


----------



## spypet

*after googling around it's still a mystery what/where TMPIN2 is.
some say it's the mosfets, others say it's under the CPU socket.
after 4000 posts here, has anyone gotten a precise answer yet?*


----------



## ebduncan

tmpin2 is the northbridge. on UD3

On the ud5 and ud7 boards its the northbridge+VRMS (they are connected via heatpipe)

And your temps are crazy. 73c on the cpu under load is bad. Not to mention your motherboard reaching 91c.

Your temps should look more like this


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> tmpin2 is the northbridge. on UD3
> On the ud5 and ud7 boards its the northbridge+VRMS (they are connected via heatpipe)
> And your temps are crazy. 73c on the cpu under load is bad. Not to mention your motherboard reaching 91c.


He has been given all the answers to solve his issue in the last few pages. Best to just ignore it.

edit: @Skynet. Based on that pic you just posted, you have lots of problems with temps, your system is going to die, fast if you keep those temps up. Both CPU and mobo are over or right at their highest maximum safe temp.


----------



## spypet

Ed - Thanks for the input - ignore the top CPUID temps - it never gets there - this software does not work right on my PC for whatever reason.

BTW i'm back down to 4.1ghz after i blue screened during a game at 4.2ghz







CPU does not get over 60c anymore while only peaking at 1.48v

If i were to apply extra copper heat sinks to the TMPIN2 location, exactly where would that physically be on my UD5 mobo? I see the mofset heatsink, the pipe and the northbridge heatsink and have a case fan blowing down above them. are you sure CPUID2 is not the flat Southbridge heat sink?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> Ed - Thanks for the input - ignore the top CPUID temps - it never gets there - this software does not work right on my PC for whatever reason.
> BTW i'm back down to 4.1ghz after i blue screened during a game at 4.2ghz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU does not get over 60c anymore while only peaking at 1.48v
> If i were to apply extra copper heat sinks to the TMPIN2 location, exactly where would that physically be on my UD5 mobo? I see the mofset heatsink, the pipe and the northbridge heatsink and have a case fan blowing down above them. are you sure CPUID2 is not the flat Southbridge heat sink?


TMPIN02 is the physical north bridge chipset.

Some people confuse NorthBridge for CPU-NorthBridge(CPU-NB). The CPU-NB is part of the CPU and has no location on the board directly.


----------



## sumitlian

Hey guys, there is one thing I'm afraid of. My UD5 is revision 1.0, so it doesn't have LLC control. Also there doesn't seem any single user in official FX owner thread who has done any overclocking with UD5.
Will I be able to overclock this new FX to 4.8GHz at least ?

With my current 1055T, I have to set 1.525 volts in BIOS to make it stable at 4.0 GHz. Though voltage at stress testing is only 1.456 volts, and it is perfectly stable and also temps are under 60c with H70 (except in summer). But there is voltage drop of 0.069v.

Can anyone tell if this new FX will overclock on my UD5 (Without LLC) ?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Hey guys, there is one thing I'm afraid of. My UD5 is revision 1.0, so it doesn't have LLC control. Also there doesn't seem any single user in official FX owner thread who has done any overclocking with UD5.
> Will I be able to overclock this new FX to 4.8GHz at least ?
> 
> With my current 1055T, I have to set 1.525 volts in BIOS to make it stable at 4.0 GHz. Though voltage at stress testing is only 1.456 volts, and it is perfectly stable and also temps are under 60c with H70 (except in summer). But there is voltage drop of 0.069v.
> 
> Can anyone tell if this new FX will overclock on my UD5 (Without LLC) ?


yes you will be able to overclock it. You will need to set the voltage in bios higher than what would normally be to combat voltage drop. Same deal with the new Fx processors as your 1055T.

Keep in mind generally speaking the FX processors are cooling limited. Most people cannot run more than 1.4-1.45 volts to the cpu with the Fx processors with out overheating, it takes some serious cooling to keep them cool.


----------



## MILLER2003

Sorry if this has already been talked about.

I am having major issues with my 990FXA-UD3. Rev. 1.1
It is having issues with windows update (gives off the 0xC80003FA error code)
It also has video issues (flash, silverlight, etc)
I have the phenom II 945 cpu.
I have tried a different video card, HDD, DVD drive, and Ram but nothing changes
My video cards are 2 8800Gts ( I know they are old but they do what I need)
Do you know why I get this error?
Btw I have tried windows Vista, 7, and 8. They all give the same symptoms and error

Thanks everyone


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MILLER2003*
> 
> Sorry if this has already been talked about.
> I am having major issues with my 990FXA-UD3. Rev. 1.1
> It is having issues with windows update (gives off the 0xC80003FA error code)
> It also has video issues (flash, silverlight, etc)
> I have the phenom II 945 cpu.
> I have tried a different video card, HDD, DVD drive, and Ram but nothing changes
> My video cards are 2 8800Gts ( I know they are old but they do what I need)
> Do you know why I get this error?
> Btw I have tried windows Vista, 7, and 8. They all give the same symptoms and error
> Thanks everyone


Link

The above link is to a Microsoft Support page about the error code you listed. Have you by chance tried their "fix-it" application, or followed their steps?

The chance's of that error actually relating to the motherboard are slim at best







good luck


----------



## MILLER2003

Yes, it says there are no issues.
In my opinion it is a motherboard issue and not a software issue. I had built a system for a guy with this motherboard (version 1.0) with no errors so I know its a good series, which is why I bought it, but the problems keep coming back to the MB.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> yes you will be able to overclock it. You will need to set the voltage in bios higher than what would normally be to combat voltage drop. Same deal with the new Fx processors as your 1055T.
> Keep in mind generally speaking the FX processors are cooling limited. Most people cannot run more than 1.4-1.45 volts to the cpu with the Fx processors with out overheating, it takes some serious cooling to keep them cool.


Thanks









You mean FX CPU gets more hotter than Phenom II at same voltage ?
But AMD says FX CPU's max temp limit is near 70c.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> yes you will be able to overclock it. You will need to set the voltage in bios higher than what would normally be to combat voltage drop. Same deal with the new Fx processors as your 1055T.
> Keep in mind generally speaking the FX processors are cooling limited. Most people cannot run more than 1.4-1.45 volts to the cpu with the Fx processors with out overheating, it takes some serious cooling to keep them cool.


My 8120 and 8350 havnt taken to much to cool.

With my antec 920 (lapped and has shroud mod)
8120 @ 1.5V cores got up to 58-62 (recommended limit)
8350 @ 1.54V cores gets up to 55-58C

Had a 1090T before the FX chips and that was getting upto 60-62C on the cores at 1.5V

And before that a 955 which was getting up to 60-64C at 1.55V with a antec 620 that was lapped and had 2 fans in push pull.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> My 8120 and 8350 havnt taken to much to cool.
> 
> With my antec 920 (lapped and has shroud mod)
> 8120 @ 1.5V cores got up to 58-62 (recommended limit)
> 8350 @ 1.54V cores gets up to 55-58C
> 
> Had a 1090T before the FX chips and that was getting upto 60-62C on the cores at 1.5V
> 
> And before that a 955 which was getting up to 60-64C at 1.55V with a antec 620 that was lapped and had 2 fans in push pull.


The Fx 8150 consumes more power than a thuban.



More wattage consumed = more heat.

A highly overclocked FX processor will put out considerably more heat than a Thuban. Also your temps are high, my Antec 920 on my [email protected] 4.9ghz with 1.45 volts doesn't go over 50c. Ambient temp of 22c. Fx really don't like temps over 50c for st abilities sake. When its cold outside and I open a window to get my ambient temp to around 4-5c I can push the volts up to 1.55 under load and pull off 5.2ghz stable, once the CPU temp goes over 50c, It crashes under load. Take it for what it is worth. Long as the temp stays under 50c fully loaded with 1.55volts I can run 5.2ghz. 24/7 stable. Granted I haven't actually been able to test it for 24 hours, i don't want to sleep in a room that cold. I haven endured it for a few hours though for benchmark sake. Kinda odd wearing a jacket in your own room when the electric is on


----------



## bmgjet

Those arnt the temps I run/ran daily.
If just how far I could push the voltage before hitting stability/heat wall.

If your interested in the clocks it was.

8350 @ 5.1ghz
8120 @ 5ghz
1090T @ 4.18ghz
955 @ 4.2ghz

I would hardly call the Antec 920 a extreme cooler since you can get it for under $100 very easily and it has no maintenance other then cleaning the radiator every now and again.


----------



## Mule

I think it was this thread I mentioned it in. Bolts I used on the heatsinks... 3x12mm or 3/16"x12" I cannot report on a temperature difference as I unscientifically changed my fan config and reapplied thermal paste. The HS dont wobble about now so I am happier either way.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Those arnt the temps I run/ran daily.
> If just how far I could push the voltage before hitting stability/heat wall.
> 
> If your interested in the clocks it was.
> 
> 8350 @ 5.1ghz
> 8120 @ 5ghz
> 1090T @ 4.18ghz
> 955 @ 4.2ghz
> 
> I would hardly call the Antec 920 a extreme cooler since you can get it for under $100 very easily and it has no maintenance other then cleaning the radiator every now and again.


The Antec 920 is on par with the h100. So yes it is very high end cooling. Only a few air heatsinks out perform it, then custom water loops. Spending near 100$ to keep a processor cool is a lot.


----------



## kzone75

Could anyone with a Vishera CPU run a Maxxmem on one of these 990FXA's? Getting weird scores.. kthx

Actually, a BD would be fine as well. But it needs to be the latest BIOS..


----------



## bmgjet

Maxxmem doesnt work correctly on PD.
Use AIDA64 instead.



Same ram kit and thats the best I can get on PD
Then with the 8120



Changed to a Sabertooth mobo tho but resualts are pritty much the same.


----------



## Fordox

I've seen some driver updates for the ud3 board, including a chipset driver and pre-installerd AHCI and RAID drivers, does this do anything or improve performance/stability?


----------



## TheSittur

Hi! Can i update 990fxa bios in Windows OS? I dont have usb stick or can i make external HDD work like usb stick?


----------



## kzone75

Yes, you can update in Windows using the @BIOS program


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Hi! Can i update 990fxa bios in Windows OS? I dont have usb stick or can i make external HDD work like usb stick?


yes you can update the bios in windows. Gigabyte has the program @BIOS you can use. Just download the bios from the gigabyte website, extract it to a place you can find it again, Open the program select the bios you want to update from file, and your done. It also supports automatic updating in case you just want to click a button it will connect to the server and download the latest bios file for you and flash it.
Quote:


> I've seen some driver updates for the ud3 board, including a chipset driver and pre-installerd AHCI and RAID drivers, does this do anything or improve performance/stability?


I dunno I will have to download them and see. But i am betting they are for windows 8


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I dunno I will have to download them and see. But i am betting they are for windows 8


then why does it stand under the section of W7 64-bits?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> then why does it stand under the section of W7 64-bits?


They didn't need new drivers for windows 7, they worked fine. They likely made a new version driver for windows 8 and make some tweaks, then just passed it down to windows 7 as well.

Which is why I said it was probably for windows 8. I updated them at least the audio drivers. The AMD sata driver actually comes with the newest Cat Drivers. The Sata driver from the 12.11 beta 8 is better than one posted on the gigabyte website.

12.11 beta 8 drivers Crystal disk- 490mbs read - 474 write

Gigabyte new Sata driver- 453mbs read - 440 write

Use the cat 12.11 beta 8 sata drivers, or download them from the amd website.


----------



## TheSittur

Still no uefi bios for 990fxa series? They promised to do for 990fxa series


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSittur*
> 
> Still no uefi bios for 990fxa series? They promised to do for 990fxa series


i believe it is only for the new rev 3.0.


----------



## TheSittur

I dont find info about rev3 MBs


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheSittur*
> 
> I dont find info about rev3 MBs


http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4397#ov


----------



## TheSittur

hehee only ud3, i watched only ud7


----------



## spypet

can anyone help with how i can utilize the mobo usb2 and usb3 headers on a expansion slot bracket?

i noticed there are brackets with 1 mobo header to 1 port -OR- 1 mobo header to 2 ports...

what's the deal? can this mobo support 2 ports off the same 1 header?

two usb2 header to 4 ports
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Female-Plate-Adapter-USBPLATE4/dp/B00015Y0FK

two usb2 headers to 2 ports
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Dual-Port-Motherboard-Adapter-10-Pin/dp/B00004Z5NH

is each usb2 port compromised somehow by having 2 ports off the same header?

what about usb3 ports - can i use the same one usb3 header for a two port bracket?

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Female-Plate-Adapter-USB3SPLATE/dp/B0066KP06M

what compromises might there be to each usb3 port for doing this?

besides ebay - can anyone recommend a cheap vendor or brand i should be using?


----------



## TheSittur

ud5/ud7 dont have overclock saving profiles in bios or just i cant find them?


----------



## paulwarden2505

to save overclock on ud7 hit f11 to load those settings at a later date hit f12


----------



## TheSittur

in bios i press f11 then it have saved? and sometime if i want use that overclock i press f12 in bios?


----------



## paulwarden2505

that is what i did before i updated bios to latest version ready for buying an fx8350 cpu in a couple of weeks


----------



## TheSittur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> that is what i did before i updated bios to latest version ready for buying an fx8350 cpu in a couple of weeks


thanks its work +rep for you


----------



## yappy

Hello guys,

I have a GA-990FXA-UD5 Board, rev 1.0 with vdrop apparently. I got a fx-8350 recently, but have had the board for awhile hence rev 1.

I installed the cpu and began to OC to 5ghz, It loads windows, but when i try to prime. The computer freezes instantly.

After increasing CPU VOLTS to 1.66v. to help compensate voltage drop ( should be around 1.56-1.60v on drop during prime95 or on full 100% load). computer still freezes instantly when opening prime95. So I am guessing, it may not be that i need more voltage but something else to help stable it?

I tried increasing the CPU PLL all the way up to 2.695v , no change at all.

I tried increasing CPU NB volt up to 1.4750v , no luck either.

does NB frequency and HT frequency affect it?

What else should I try?

Also just in case if anyone needed to know, I have good cooling. (1) 3fan radiator , (1) 2 fan radiator , (1) passive radiator (4 tube cape cora ).


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yappy*
> 
> Hello guys,
> I have a GA-990FXA-UD5 Board, rev 1.0 with vdrop apparently. I got a fx-8350 recently, but have had the board for awhile hence rev 1.
> I installed the cpu and began to OC to 5ghz, It loads windows, but when i try to prime. The computer freezes instantly.
> After increasing CPU VOLTS to 1.66v. to help compensate voltage drop ( should be around 1.56-1.60v on drop during prime95 or on full 100% load). computer still freezes instantly when opening prime95. So I am guessing, it may not be that i need more voltage but something else to help stable it?
> I tried increasing the CPU PLL all the way up to 2.695v , no change at all.
> I tried increasing CPU NB volt up to 1.4750v , no luck either.
> does NB frequency and HT frequency affect it?
> What else should I try?
> Also just in case if anyone needed to know, I have good cooling. (1) 3fan radiator , (1) 2 fan radiator , (1) passive radiator (4 tube cape cora ).


Rather than going for gold right off the bat I would suggest building the rig, and testing for full stability on EVERYTHING before moving to overclocking. Run prime for 18-19 hours, run memtest, check HDD for any error and bad sector's, then run IBT on high or maximum along with FurMark to make sure thermal's are working properly(yes, both at the same time).

Once you have confirmed that EVERYTHING works perfectly as it should at stock clocks then start moving your OC up in increments. It sounds daunting but is a much safer way to go about Overclocking. The last thing you want to do is try to sort out bad hardware/building mistake's from OC stability problems.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Hello guys,
> 
> I have a GA-990FXA-UD5 Board, rev 1.0 with vdrop apparently. I got a fx-8350 recently, but have had the board for awhile hence rev 1.
> 
> I installed the cpu and began to OC to 5ghz, It loads windows, but when i try to prime. The computer freezes instantly.
> 
> After increasing CPU VOLTS to 1.66v. to help compensate voltage drop ( should be around 1.56-1.60v on drop during prime95 or on full 100% load). computer still freezes instantly when opening prime95. So I am guessing, it may not be that i need more voltage but something else to help stable it?
> 
> I tried increasing the CPU PLL all the way up to 2.695v , no change at all.
> 
> I tried increasing CPU NB volt up to 1.4750v , no luck either.
> 
> does NB frequency and HT frequency affect it?
> 
> What else should I try?
> 
> Also just in case if anyone needed to know, I have good cooling. (1) 3fan radiator , (1) 2 fan radiator , (1) passive radiator (4 tube cape cora ).


i agree with Khaotic. However i believe the only change in this system is the Fx cpu. I would still test the system at stock clocks/volts to ensure its stable. My next suggestion is forget about prime 95, and use IBT.

What are your northbridge and hyper transport speeds? Also what is your vrm temps/northbridge? (twpin2 on CPUID Hardware monitor.)


----------



## Fordox

The ud3 doesn't give enough power with the vrm's on 1.5V sadly... it will result in voltage spikes and drops. i don't want to know what happens on 1.55V
source:
http://www.hardcoreware.net/gigabyte-990fxa-ud3-review/3/


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> The ud3 doesn't give enough power with the vrm's on 1.5V sadly... it will result in voltage spikes and drops. i don't want to know what happens on 1.55V
> source:


the UD3 has plenty enough VRM for the FX processor. It supports up to 400amps. Its not going to be enough if your under Ln2, and want to jack the voltage up higher, but for water/air its plenty. If your using LN2/phase change/ Chilled water the Crosshair V is the way to go.

It is unlikely the VRMS are holding his overclock back.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> They didn't need new drivers for windows 7, they worked fine. They likely made a new version driver for windows 8 and make some tweaks, then just passed it down to windows 7 as well.
> Which is why I said it was probably for windows 8. I updated them at least the audio drivers. The AMD sata driver actually comes with the newest Cat Drivers. The Sata driver from the 12.11 beta 8 is better than one posted on the gigabyte website.
> 12.11 beta 8 drivers Crystal disk- 490mbs read - 474 write
> Gigabyte new Sata driver- 453mbs read - 440 write
> Use the cat 12.11 beta 8 sata drivers, or download them from the amd website.


the Sata AHCI driver on the gigabyte site is the same driver bundled in the 12.10 and 12.11 beta packages...

Gigabyte site:


12.11 Beta Package:


1.2.001.0331 I've been using it since 12.9 (i think)... fast, good driver. Only exception is that it causes the microsoft storage port driver to spike up a high dpc latency every once and a while... (like a blue moon situation really). but no "real" problems otherwise.

this is using it with my Corsair Performance pro SSD as the main and only drive in my system as well... so its happy and right at home with SSD's.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> the UD3 has plenty enough VRM for the FX processor. It supports up to 400amps. Its not going to be enough if your under Ln2, and want to jack the voltage up higher, but for water/air its plenty. If your using LN2/phase change/ Chilled water the Crosshair V is the way to go.
> It is unlikely the VRMS are holding his overclock back.


it will. how higher the load on the vrms, the more vdrop and vspikes. the supplied voltage from the ud3 was never good.


----------



## kzone75

http://valid.canardpc.com/2593617


----------



## Fordox

100% stable with a rev 1.0?


----------



## kzone75

A little more tweaking and it should be. Temps are much too high at the moment..


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

My suicide shot
http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2593201


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> My suicide shot
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2593201


What's the CPU VID on your chip, if I may ask?


----------



## bmgjet

LLC is a must for high stable overclocks its why I ditched my UD3 R1.0

My sabertooth R2.0 gets 5ghz on the same voltage as I could only get 4.75ghz stable on the UD3. Also runs cooler because the voltage isnt all over the place.

If you mange to get 5ghz stable on the UD3 I bet with a better board youd get 5.1ghz stable on the same voltage.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> My suicide shot
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2593201
> 
> 
> 
> What's the CPU VID on your chip, if I may ask?
Click to expand...

1.3625v


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> LLC is a must for high stable overclocks its why I ditched my UD3 R1.0
> 
> My sabertooth R2.0 gets 5ghz on the same voltage as I could only get 4.75ghz stable on the UD3. Also runs cooler because the voltage isnt all over the place.
> 
> If you mange to get 5ghz stable on the UD3 I bet with a better board youd get 5.1ghz stable on the same voltage.


voltage is kinda all over the place, but that is because i use Cool and Quiet. Well scratch that, i use Mr phenoms tweaker for custom cool and quiet.

I have been to 5.2ghz when it was 30 degrees outside, and i left the window open. I just set the voltage in bios to 1.6volts, then under load it would drop to around 1.54 or so. With cool and quiet my voltage was never 1.6 volts anyways, so it was safe. All this on the Ud3 rev 1.0.

I know a few other Ud3 guys who have accomplished quite high clocks, I personally don't think its the board, but the user and the setup. I do understand more people seem to get better overclocks on the Crosshair V. I might grab the Crosshair V Formula Z if i can find a good deal on one. Then sell my UD3.

So far though i've had nothing but success with the Ud3. I'm rocking 4.9ghz daily 24/7 on my 8120 with 1.45 volts. I can run 5ghz at 1.5 volts but my Poor Antec 920 doesn't like the extra heat, and i don't like the extra racket that comes from its loud annoying fans. Thus I decided to go to custom water loop. Will soon have a XSPC Rx 240+140mm dual radiator For a total of 520 of radiator madness for just the CPU. I will say i will be cooling the chipset and my 7950 as well when i get the funds for the blocks. Though i cannot decide if i want to upgrade to the Crosshair formula Z before i get the chipset blocks.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> the UD3 has plenty enough VRM for the FX processor. It supports up to 400amps.


Don't know about UD3 but UD7/UD5 have Vishay Siliconix's SiC769CD DrMOS.
Each mosfet is capable to deliver 35 Amps max. This means 35 x 8 phase = 280 Amps for CPU core power.

http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vishay.com%2Fdocs%2F64981%2Fsic769cd.pdf&ei=5HWyUK79GtDnrAe7mYCAAw&usg=AFQjCNHFNsdsDXg4UpLZr4tP5KKQhHJb8A&sig2=RKVrHg6uF5_1uRUmGKh4Pg


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Don't know about UD3 but UD7/UD5 have Vishay Siliconix's SiC769CD DrMOS.
> Each mosfet is capable to deliver 35 Amps max. This means 35 x 8 phase = 280 Amps for CPU core power.
> 
> http://www.google.co.in/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&ved=0CC8QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vish


i think you might want to check your math. The ud3 supports 400amps, i don't see why the ud5 or ud7 would support less amps. In regard to the Asus crosshair V it supports 2000amps (yes really)

I think you went wrong by giving it just one mosfet per phase, which is usually not the case. The asus has 3, the ud3 has 2.


----------



## steezebe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i think you might want to check your math. The ud3 supports 400amps, i don't see why the ud5 or ud7 would support less amps. In regard to the Asus crosshair V it supports 2000amps (yes really)
> I think you went wrong by giving it just one mosfet per phase, which is usually not the case. The asus has 3, the ud3 has 2.


2 Kamps eh? Source plz?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> 2 Kamps eh? Source plz?


http://www.hardcoreware.net/gigabyte-990fxa-ud3-review/3/

notes 2k amps on the crosshair.

but here is their actual review of the crosshair for the mosfet information
http://www.hardcoreware.net/asus-crosshair-v-formula-review/3/


----------



## spuppy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> the UD3 has plenty enough VRM for the FX processor. It supports up to 400amps. Its not going to be enough if your under Ln2, and want to jack the voltage up higher, but for water/air its plenty. If your using LN2/phase change/ Chilled water the Crosshair V is the way to go.
> It is unlikely the VRMS are holding his overclock back.


The VRM hits over 130 celsius for me under load with an 8150 at 1.5v. on air... A bit much I think


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> http://www.hardcoreware.net/gigabyte-990fxa-ud3-review/3/
> notes 2k amps on the crosshair.
> but here is their actual review of the crosshair for the mosfet information
> http://www.hardcoreware.net/asus-crosshair-v-formula-review/3/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i think you might want to check your math. The ud3 supports 400amps, i don't see why the ud5 or ud7 would support less amps. In regard to the Asus crosshair V it supports 2000amps (yes really)
> I think you went wrong by giving it just one mosfet per phase, which is usually not the case. The asus has 3, the ud3 has 2.


Man I didn't know about CHVFormula and UD3. But after seeing your link UD3's each phase (which includes a low side MOSFET and a high side MOSFET with a Driver IC) can really deliver 50 Ampere per phase. Which obviously makes 50 Amps x 8 phase = 400 Amps total.









But here UD5 don't have the same design. This time low side mosfet, high side mosfet and driver IC is integrated into one chip. The whole package is called Driver MOSFET or DrMOS.

*UD5 has ten units (8+2) of "Vishay Siliconix SiC769CD" VRM. You can see here.*
Source: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/printpage/Gigabyte-990FXA-UD5-Motherboard/1311



*Here is the technical specification of this VRM.*


As you can clearly see *each* SiC769CD VRM delivers 35 Amperes current. Finally total 280 Ampere ( 35 Amps x 8 phase) is available for Main CPU core power.

One sec....What the heck







This means UD3 is much better in CPU overclocking. !?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> As you can clearly see each SiC769CD VRM delivers 35 Amperes current. Finally total 280 Ampere ( 35 Amps x 8 phase) is available for Main CPU core power.
> 
> One sec....What the heck This means UD3 is much better in CPU overclocking. !?


something is off there.

Perhaps the model number for the mosfet is not correct? if it handles 50 watts per mosfet then would be the same as the ud3. I dunno, I don't have a ud5 or ud7 to look at.


----------



## TheBean

stick g1 quote -

"Actually you're wrong. The items you mentioned may seem cooler than ambient at times, and that is only because they got cooler when the ambient temperature was cooler."

So a cpu can be cooler than ambient for an amount of time so long as it got cooler along with the ambient temp at some point, so your whole theory gets thrown out now. Fact is it is/was cooler than ambient.
Now if we keep it cooler than ambient say with a chunk of metal with ambient air forced through it, the air cools making the air cooler than ambient making the heat sink cooler than ambient having a cooling effect on the cpu.
A normal fan cools air as well and the bars on the front of a fan stay cool
Only thing to work out is the heat from the cpu working vs the 'cooling from the cpu cooling devices'
We know for a fact that LN2 and water loops can cool the cpu down below ambient temps.
They even make mobos and bits to help the temps stay down through the materials they make them with

Also if we cant keep the temp below ambient as you say - means it levels out at a certain temp otherwise it has to get hotter and hotter - you don't know the answer because its a variable , and you aren't seeing variables in any of this.
All you can say is - it gets warm and sometimes they even shut down from the heat, that's true but also LN2 and water loops can prevent that from happening
Its not impossible to be below ambient

+ what if the cpu is left idling so its like 0-1% in task manger but i have my fans on full blast ? It will stay below ambient


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> something is off there.
> Perhaps the model number for the mosfet is not correct? if it handles 50 watts per mosfet then would be the same as the ud3. I dunno, I don't have a ud5 or ud7 to look at.


Nah...Mosfet no. is absolutely correct, actually the day I bought my UD5 and brought it home, I immediately detatched its VRM heat sink and noted the mosfet no. (Because I wanted to know everything about it, cause I had blown up three MSI boards before this UD5 ).

Well UD5's VRMs seems enough too, if we draw even 25 amps from each VRM, it can still load 25amps x 8phase = 200amps x 1.50volts = 300watts.
isn't 300watts good enough ? Because I believe any stress of more than 25 amps or 30 Amps on each phase may heat it up to critical temp.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> + what if the cpu is left idling so its like 0-1% in task manger but i have my fans on full blast ? It will stay below ambient


umm no.

You could have a hurricane blowing on your heatsink, That heatsink would still never be cooler than ambient temp. Your getting Wind chill factor mixed up with thermodynamics. The wind chill factor is what it feels like to you, ie your skin. When the wind is blowing it cools your skin faster thus you feel cooler. It doesn't make the air any cooler it makes makes it feel as if it is colder outside, because the heat coming off you is being wicked away faster as if it was cooler outside.

The only time something can be cooler than ambient temp is if the temperature has changed recently to a warmer temperature and the object in question has not had time to adjust to the new ambient temp. For example its 30 degrees in your garage and your computer is sitting in the garage. Then you decide to take it inside your house where its 70 degrees. For a short time before the computer and its internals can adjust to the new ambient temp it will be cooler than ambient temp .

There are ways to get below ambient, one method is evaporative cooling, ie phase change, or water bong cooler. Other way, is to just use ln2, or liquid helium. Note Water cooling using radiators does not have the ability to get below ambient either.

I would explain it further in detail, but i think you can just Google it. Better yet take a thermal dynamics class.
Quote:


> Nah...Mosfet no. is absolutely correct, actually the day I bought my UD5 and brought it home, I immediately detatched its VRM heat sink and noted the mosfet no. (Because I wanted to know everything about it, cause I had blown up three MSI boards before this UD5 ).
> 
> Well UD5's VRMs seems enough too, if we draw even 25 amps from each VRM, it can still load 25amps x 8phase = 200amps x 1.50volts = 300watts.
> isn't 300watts good enough ? Because I believe any stress of more than 25 amps or 30 Amps on each phase may heat it up to critical temp.


300 watt nah, my 8120 system uses 400+ some watts at load. Granted that's the system under full load. That's only at 1.45 volts and 4.9ghz. You need at least 400-500watts to max out Bulldozer or Piledriver


----------



## Willi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> umm no.
> You could have a hurricane blowing on your heatsink, That heatsink would still never be cooler than ambient temp. Your getting Wind chill factor mixed up with thermodynamics. The wind chill factor is what it feels like to you, ie your skin. When the wind is blowing it cools your skin faster thus you feel cooler. It doesn't make the air any cooler it makes makes it feel as if it is colder outside, because the heat coming off you is being wicked away faster as if it was cooler outside.
> The only time something can be cooler than ambient temp is if the temperature has changed recently to a warmer temperature and the object in question has not had time to adjust to the new ambient temp. For example its 30 degrees in your garage and your computer is sitting in the garage. Then you decide to take it inside your house where its 70 degrees. For a short time before the computer and its internals can adjust to the new ambient temp it will be cooler than ambient temp .
> There are ways to get below ambient, one method is evaporative cooling, ie phase change, or water bong cooler. Other way, is to just use ln2, or liquid helium. Note Water cooling using radiators does not have the ability to get below ambient either.
> I would explain it further in detail, but i think you can just Google it. Better yet take a thermal dynamics class.


THIS ^

It still amazes me how people are able to build a watercooler loop and still expect lower-than-ambient temps in total disregard to Thermodynamics.
+Rep for you my friend, and may others follow the example, knowledge is available to anyone willing to learn.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> 300 watt nah, my 8120 system uses 400+ some watts at load. Granted that's the system under full load. That's only at 1.45 volts and 4.9ghz. You need at least 400-500watts to max out Bulldozer or Piledriver



http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/11/06/amd-fx-8350-review/7

This is the total system power consumption with FX-8350 at 4.8 GHz and CPU at full load. And this is just 364 watts.
How did you manage to draw 400+ watts from just your CPU itself ?
How do you test only CPU power consumption ?
What makes you think you could draw 500 watts max from Bulldozer or Piledriver ? I am not talking about LN2 level overclocking.


----------



## ebduncan

i said 400+ watts under load for the entire system. That is a cpu load only.

again that is only 1.45 volts, at 1.55 volts and higher clock you can easily add another 100 watts. 400-500 watts is not enough to take bulldozer or piledriver to the bleeding edge, with good liquid cooling.


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i said 400+ watts under load for the entire system. That is a cpu load only.
> again that is only 1.45 volts, at 1.55 volts and higher clock you can easily add another 100 watts. 400-500 watts is not enough to take bulldozer or piledriver to the bleeding edge, with good liquid cooling.


Whatever







! It looks odd that UD3 is better. But UD3 is clearly better than UD5 at least.
I just know UD5 is enough for 5 to 6.0 GHz (if chip can do).


----------



## ebduncan

thought i would post this here

not sure if anyone here uses LN2 but if you do then you will thank me LN2 mode on the ud3. Seems odd they would use the ud3 rather than the ud5 or ud7 for extreme overclocking. guess what we discussed about the vrms is true.

http://hwbot.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61510


----------



## Fordox

I can't see why people believe that system temps with air or watercooled parts will cool the system down to below the ambient temp.
It is really simple, you can't just make air cooler than it allready is, unless you use a chiller (which isn't a fan, but a heat extractor like device) or put something against it that comes directly out of your freezer (lets say dice), and your freezer is a chiller.

Yes you can use a chiller in your pc and in your waterloop, but it draws power like mad and it WILL make moisture on your components. thats how things get moist, the water in the air has a certain temp, if it hits something with a lower temp than the air it is in, it will become liquid again. so lets be happy that your system wont go under anbient temps.

And the most simple part: you have a cpu with about 50 degrees, and you have air which is ambient, and will be around the 20 degrees. how on earth can you get the temps lower than 20 degrees unless you use some kind of chemical reaction? it is simple physics which will explain to you that when you put hot and cold water (for example) together, it will meet at a certain degree in the middle of the 2. if you put more cooled water in it, it will just be allmost the same again as the cooled water as it was before, but it has a bit more volume and it is poored in another glass. the same is the other way.

air or watercooling without a chiller = allways above ambient.

maybe some people must read a book or 2 or may even pay attention in classes.

I find it hard to believe that my ud3 is better than a ud5... does the ud5 also expirience ludicrous voltage spikes and drops?


----------



## soxy

Sorry if this is answered somewhere else in this 400 page thread







I have an ssd drive thats having error code 11 and 51 errors so they suggested changing the sata port, and I thought why not try it in the marvel ports, so plugged it in, rebooted, and for some reason the bios showed it as an ide drive not achi and of course windows blue screened. So I thought I would put my dvd and blue ray drives in those ports and keep the amd for ssd and hdd. So plugged the two drives into the marvell ports, bios says yep two ide drives, but windows says drives huh you have no dvd or blue ray drive..... So my question is, how do I get windows to see the two marvell ports, they are turned on in bios, and bios sees the drives.
Oh, and if I can get windows to see those drives, any way to get bios to see them as achi so I could try my ssd in there?

Thanks

Soxy

edit: ga-990fxa-ud5 mb

Update: Went into bios and changed those two ports from achi to ide and now windows sees my dvd/br, but I am still wondering why when it was in achi it called my ssd ide, can I actualy change that and boot from the ssd in achi?

Ta


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soxy*
> 
> Sorry if this is answered somewhere else in this 400 page thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an ssd drive thats having error code 11 and 51 errors so they suggested changing the sata port, and I thought why not try it in the marvel ports, so plugged it in, rebooted, and for some reason the bios showed it as an ide drive not achi and of course windows blue screened. So I thought I would put my dvd and blue ray drives in those ports and keep the amd for ssd and hdd. So plugged the two drives into the marvell ports, bios says yep two ide drives, but windows says drives huh you have no dvd or blue ray drive..... So my question is, how do I get windows to see the two marvell ports, they are turned on in bios, and bios sees the drives.
> Oh, and if I can get windows to see those drives, any way to get bios to see them as achi so I could try my ssd in there?
> Thanks
> Soxy
> edit: ga-990fxa-ud5 mb
> Update: Went into bios and changed those two ports from achi to ide and now windows sees my dvd/br, but I am still wondering why when it was in achi it called my ssd ide, can I actualy change that and boot from the ssd in achi?
> Ta


Just changing to ACHI will just cause bugs.

let M$ do it for you


----------



## Fokuz

Hi, I just registered on this page as I have been having some issues with my computer recently, plus I want to learn more about how hardware work as I'm a a hardcore noob regarding that.

I build't my first computer approx 4 months ago and I had never in my life even opened a computer case before so it was a hard mission.
Well as time has passed I realized that my curiosity and strive for perfection in most things I do really causes stress to me regarding the lack of knowledge in computers / electronics / hardware and so forth. I didn't even understand that I needed to order fan's when I build't my computer, I thought my old case with 2x 80/120mm something both blowing INTO case was enough.

CLICK HERE FOR URL:
I UPLOADED MY COMPONENTS AS GOOD AS I COULD FOR THE MOMENT

( I reformatted my computer yesterday due to the reason first of my graphic card has begun making a strange noice and is 2 months old, and after trying to think rationally and exclude that it's broken physically, I first wanted to see if it was because of my errors that so was the case. I will below the question list write the thoughts I have concerning that question.)
*Anyhow I wan't to improve my knowledge and understanding and my major questions to begin with is:

*

1. - Concerning software / drivers. 3rd party Windows and Gigabyte
2. - Recommended Cooling setup.
3. - Tips of how to control my computer in the correct way / BIOS + not having 30 programs interfering with each other, or just basic tips.
4. - Basic tips for my Gigabyte motherboard / system, physical upgrades and drivers.

*First I wanna describe the Graphic card issue*

From nowhere the GFX started to make weird noise, I have never tried to overclock the computer nor fiddle around in BIOS with voltage or such things as I have no idea what most things do.
My thoughts, as I assembled the computer I first used another card than described in the list; RADEON 3970 X2, so therefor CCC and AMD drivers, anyhow I installed those, but along with the GFX-card was a physical fan control device to regulate the fan speed on the card itself. Idea's if something's not physically broken; The old fan controlling device, is still telling my GPU to behave in a certain RPM that it shouldn't even if the device is removed, and never was used for my NVIDA-card. I had messed around with software and only thing I ever OC:ed was the OLD Radeon Card with CCC itself, but that I somehow managed to do something that is still telling my hardware to behave in a way that's not "correct". I updated the bios with @bios once but haven't dared to do it anymore as I read that it's not a very good idea. It should be done with Q-flash, but only if very necessary. If I install a driver for ex, NVIDIA GFX, does that override window's own driver choices?

*1 + 2 + 3. Concerning software / drivers. 3rd party Windows and Gigabyte + Recommended Cooling setup.*

I'm confused, when I assembled the computer it felt pretty logic as one cable fits in one place and if it doesn't it's wrong, so that was no problem. Though I recently bought a new case to reduce dust blowing into the old case, and when it comes to wiring I get confused when there is more than one possible connection slot that feels logical too in a certain way. But this was mostly concerning the fans. And what irritates me now is that I have one Control Panel for the FANS on the Front Panel of CASE itself, that connects all the case fans together and then to PSU. Then I have the opportunity to view and change fan speeds, temperature in bios, our trough Gigabyte's software, also from recommended software such as fan speed, or hardware manager. WHICH ONE DO I WAN'T TO USE? And which one takes priority over another, if I change something in windows trough a Gigabyte software can it ever Override the BIOS configuration? Also how can I know the temperature is accurate? Even if I understand it's a approximation, should only case fans be wired together, and CPU alone, and GPU alone? Should no fan-cables go to the motherboard? (I have the CPU though) and also the GPU is fan connected to the card itself, can I plug that out, put into the motherboard instead? And would that be better? I bought a case a couple of days ago, for 10 $ as it was a cheap price, the dude left a entire computer inside, with alot of fans / and a fan regulator. Is it a good Idea to use such thing? It has only one "Tuning button" and is connected trough PCI, with one cable going out from it that's a fan cable. So what difference would that make from the fan device that was connected in the PCI slot or as the other one directly to a device itself. And also concerning the fan cable from the GPU, is it any better to extend it trough a device or connect it together with the case fans but or controlled trough a different physical device, so I can use one program to adjust everything separately?

*4. Basic tips for my Gigabyte motherboard / system, physical upgrades and drivers.*

I know I have a tendency to formulate me a little confusing as I write pretty hasty and over analyze things a little to much it get's disturbing and text gets messed up and 10x times longer than necessary, ANYHOW, if you was so helpful to read trough all of this and want to help me out, what basic tips can you give me? Anyone else with the same Processor that has tips for that?

Use Gigabyte software or not? If, which or in what way? Best drivers? Components that would work good?
Airflow Tips? As the "black thing" below the CPU gets very hot, and the CPU itself gets pretty hot. I pictures showing my setup, and also more information about it in another forum where I made a post. (click for url to the forum post (overclockers.com)

*THANKS IN ADVANCE, AND THANKS A LOT F YOU WENT TROUGH ALL THIS TEXT AND TOOK YOUR TIME READING IT!*


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Use Gigabyte software or not? If, which or in what way? Best drivers? Components that would work good?
> Airflow Tips? As the "black thing" below the CPU gets very hot, and the CPU itself gets pretty hot. I pictures showing my setup, and also more information about it in another forum where I made a post. (click for url to the forum post (overclockers.com)


after reading all that you still fail to mention what kinda noise. Is it a ticking noise? grinding noise? Anyway sounds like the fan, try tapping the video card while its running to see if that solves the issue.

For the "black thing" below the cpu, i would assume your referring to the northbridge Heatsink. It is normal that it gets hot, at least on the ud3 anyways.


----------



## Fokuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> after reading all that you still fail to mention what kinda noise. Is it a ticking noise? grinding noise? Anyway sounds like the fan, try tapping the video card while its running to see if that solves the issue.
> 
> For the "black thing" below the cpu, i would assume your referring to the northbridge Heatsink. It is normal that it gets hot, at least on the ud3 anyways.


Forgot that, well I researched some days ago and found some clips on UTUBE of fans that started to make noices, and I haven't found anything similiar. Most of them I listened made a "Humming/Buzzing" sound, I guess it's called in English, like blades that spins to fast and in a wrong way or something like that.

MY GPU Fan's noice is very weird, it wasn't until I changed Chassi I figured it wasn't the HDD. *It almost sounds exactly like a old "Windows 95" pc working hard. Ticking / Scrambling sound.* So I stopped the blades putting my finger in the center of the propeller or what you call it and the sound wen't away when the fan didn't spin. I turned of the PSU plugged it out after a while and removed the plastic case which holds the fan over the "metal thing" (heatsink?) to see if there was any dust, but it was barely noticeable, anyhow I blew carefully away what was visible and tried to assamble the plastic case which is screwed into the "metal thing" with 2 small screws each side. As it automatically places it linear I anyway tried to study it really was. Screws sits tight and doesn't touch anything as I can see the ends of them from the sides trough the metal layers. I noticed the cable from the fan was laying over the "metal" so I took a piece of anti-static tape to hold the wire again'st the plastic case instead in a unmovable position, as it already almost had because of the short length of it. It goes directly into the connector of the card itself and the card goes to the PCI-e and connected from the PSU with a 6 pin PCI-e cable non-modular, and the noise appeared as described from "nowhere" which means I didn't do anything physically to the computer before it started nor any adjustments I can remember in the software, that should have changed it.

No wires are laying upon it or touching anything on the motherboard neither, as visible in the pictures which can be viewed in the link to the other post I did on OC.com.
Maybe I have by mistake done anything wrong inside the BIOS (which I can't remember that I've touched in a long time.) or any software which interfered with it to cause it to behave weird.
I made a post a couple of minutes a go in the "New members Presentation forum" where I describe a little in the end of unhealthy things I did "VS." my computer in the early state of learning, but the Graphic Card was a later purchase and is approx 2 months old and the sound as I can remember appeared just suddenly, at least without any physical changes, but it started in my old case where the cable management looked like a "junkie-crib with hentai tentacle porn trying to rape everything in my chassi". So maybe it can be a damage which occurred inside the old case which later on triggered the fan to harass my ears.

As I said I tried to never change anything in bios (except boot up order or something like that) / OC thing's as I don't wanna gamble before I know more basics first. But that can also be a problem, that I never changed anything? What happens if I tell the bios to load optimized default? I haven't dared to do that, because then I have to write down every value there currently is on the screen so I can see what changes and what not, as for me, my lack of knowledge can confuse me to believe if some problem appears after for ex, changing a minor thing like "make it possible to boot from a USB device" it can cause a problem I don't know which can cause a problem I try to solve which ends up messing up something entirely else which is of greater importance.

BETWEEN, THE MODEL OF THE CARD IS: ZOTAC GTX 550 ti 1GB DDR5. (I tried to google for a picture on it, and it was actually hard to find the correct model without the MN, which I don't have right now but it's the box with a "IRON MAN" on the front, and just a plastic glass case covering the card and not the one's with yellow color, as there is a obviously a couple of different variants.)

*Thanks for replying!*


----------



## soxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Just changing to ACHI will just cause bugs.
> let M$ do it for you


No no, the system was already fully set up for achi, all i did was unplug the os drive from one port and plug it into the marvel ports, and the bios decided that it was an ide drive, even though those ports were set to be achi in bios. The dvd and blue ray were achi too when using the amd ports, it was only when I plugged them into the marvel that I had to change them to ide in bios, but again even when set to achi the bios saw them as ide. When I switched to ide it did install some drivers for the marvel so I suppose I could try it all again, though I cant see that it matters what drivers windows has if bios says there is an ide device plugged in even when it is set to achi...

Soxy


----------



## ebduncan

hmms. No software will fix it.

If you stop the fan and the noise goes away, then it is most certainly the fan. I am not sure of your abilities, but if you take apart the card and remove the fan, on the back side there will be a sticker. Remove the sticker and might have a rubber plug, remove the plug. Find some sort of lube (motor oil, wd40, vegetable oil) and apply a small amount inside the hole. Spin the fan a few times. Re-install it.

Should solve your issue.

Note some fans do not have accessible bearings. Based on your knowledge of computers i would contact the Zotac Customer support and follow there instruction. You could possibly RMA the card and get a new one.


----------



## yappy

Hello all,

I have gskill ram rated at 1866mhz @ 1.5v . Can I OC this to 2133mhz or close ? Also what is max safe voltage for ram?


----------



## Rebelord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yappy*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have gskill ram rated at 1866mhz @ 1.5v . Can I OC this to 2133mhz or close ? Also what is max safe voltage for ram?


Max safe voltage, IIRC from when I was testing my ram, was 1.7volts. However, at those speeds, do need to make sure you have enough airflow to keep then cool.

Good luck OCing to those speed. On my 1090t I cant even get close to 1866 on my memory. =(


----------



## sdlvx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yappy*
> 
> Hello all,
> I have gskill ram rated at 1866mhz @ 1.5v . Can I OC this to 2133mhz or close ? Also what is max safe voltage for ram?


I've came close to 2200mhz on my Mushkin Blackline 2x8GB 1.35v kit. It seems like UD5 rev 1.1 can handle it.


----------



## joker96

I cant get this memory http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231460
TO RUN AT 1866 AM RUNNING A 6300 fx


----------



## sumitlian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joker96*
> 
> I cant get this memory http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231460
> TO RUN AT 1866 AM RUNNING A 6300 fx


Gskill F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR natively runs at 1600 MHz (PC12800). Actually 1866 MHz with 9-10-9-28 at 1.5 volts is according to Intel XMP profle. To run these types of RAM you may have to manually adjust memory timings to 9-10-9-28 in BIOS and set the voltage to 1.60v. Also change the "Row Refresh Cycle Time 1 & 2" timing to 300ns.
If it fails, try to increase bus clock till you get close to 1866 MHz, example: 280 MHz (Bus speed) x 6.66 (memory multiplier) = 1864 MHz.
If it still fails, increase CPU-NB frequency to as max as you can with increased voltage.


----------



## yappy

Sorry, I forgot to update my system specs.

I'm on 990fxa ud5 rev 1.0 with fx-8350 oc'd to 5ghz. I got the gskill to 1864mhz @ 1.5v, so far stable, thats with bus speed at 233mhz.

I wanted to know if I can go futher than 1864mhz. I actually tried to up the memory multiplier close to 2133mhz a little below and set the voltage to 1.6. But it would not boot passed post page.

What else can I do to try get it there, does it need more voltage or something else?


----------



## joker96

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sumitlian*
> 
> Gskill F3-14900CL9D-8GBSR natively runs at 1600 MHz (PC12800). Actually 1866 MHz with 9-10-9-28 at 1.5 volts is according to Intel XMP profle. To run these types of RAM you may have to manually adjust memory timings to 9-10-9-28 in BIOS and set the voltage to 1.60v. Also change the "Row Refresh Cycle Time 1 & 2" timing to 300ns.
> If it fails, try to increase bus clock till you get close to 1866 MHz, example: 280 MHz (Bus speed) x 6.66 (memory multiplier) = 1864 MHz.
> If it still fails, increase CPU-NB frequency to as max as you can with increased voltage.


Great got it to work at 1878. do you think these could oc to 2000????


----------



## Rebelord

Go for it. Thats the fun part of overclocking. The challenge to get as much as possible without crashing.
It's a lot of fun for me. But can be time consuming when your testing a OC.


----------



## Workhorse10

New to the forums long time stalker. I have a question. I have an OC at 4.8 on a 8320. When I run Prime, after a few minutes the temps and clock speeds jump around in cpzu. They drop to 2k and volts to 1.2 Ideas?

Here is my setup:
CPU: 8320
Mobo: ud3 Rev.1.1
psu corsair 650
Case: Corsair 500r
Heat sink: Noctua NH-D14
Ram: Gskill 1866 running at 1700 9-10-9-28 v 1.6
All power saving stuff: off
Turbo: off
FSB: 220
NB :2400
v core : 1.48
NB volt 1.2
LLC: tried high, extreem and ultra
Might be missing something. Let me get in my bios.
Temps in prime: 50 cpu and 74 nb


----------



## madbrain

Is it just me or are the latest Etron USB 3.0 drivers currently on the gigabyte site pretty hosed ? I'm talking about version 1.0.0.115 from 7/20/2012 if you look at the driver properties. I'm on Win 7 x64.

On my system, with these drivers, only USB 3.0 devices seem to work correctly with the ports connected to that controller, both front and back.
Many USB 2.0 devices are not seen at all. They power up, but don't show up or not recognized in Windows.. This is particularly true for anything that has a USB 2.0 hub.

The USB 2.0 devices all work fine when connected to the USB 2.0 controller.

This has been driving me crazy the last week as I was trying to install some combo USB 3.0 hub + card reader.
I got several different models from Central computers. They never worked correctly with the Etron USB 3.0 ports.

The latest one, which I have in my possession, an STLab E-100 works

On another Gigabyte mobo with a Renesas USB 3.0 chip. when connecting it, Windows first found a USB 3.0 hub, then USB 2.0 hub, then finally the card reader. I benchmarked with a very fast SDXC UHS-1 card and it got 37MB/s with HDtach. That was USB 2.0 speed, limited by the stupid built-in card reader...It is a built-in USB2 reader, not USB 3 .With another standalone USB 3.0 reader, HDtach gets 57MB/s with same SDXC card.

On the 990FXA-UD3, when I hookup the STLab E-110, Windows just finds the USB 3.0 hub. I can plug in my USB 3.0 key. But that's it, it does not see the USB 2 hub, nor the USB 2.0 card reader.

I'm really pissed at two things :
1) the broken Etron drivers . Anyone have the older version ? I think it worked fine with 2.0 devices ...
2) This stupid E-110 combo USB 3.0 hub & card reader device . Nothing on the box mentioned that the reader is 2.0 speed only.
The description on centralcomputers.com does say that, though. My bad for shopping retail and not online .. This one is going back too, sigh.
http://www.centralcomputers.com/commerce/catalog/product.jsp?product_id=84837&czuid=1354274793140


----------



## kzone75

And now I believe my UD3 is a goner.







Been trying everything I can, but it just won't run anymore. Don't know what happened, but the VRMs are a lot hotter than before. After powering the PC on, the monitors will lose the signal after less than 5 mins, usb ports & ethernet won't work. But the computer will still run, but it can't be shut down with power button or reset. I didn't see anything out of the ordinary while examining the mobo. Tried different CPUs, RAM, PSU and GPU. Still the same.

Will be using an Asus M5A97 r2.0 for a couple of weeks. (This mobo was supposed to be RMA'd because the PC store couldn't get it to work. Works fine with me.









It's a sad day though..







I'm still considering another Gigabyte mobo.


----------



## Roadkill95

Alright guys I just got this board (UD3) yesterday and I'm having trouble overclocking my CPU. My chip is a 1045t and i have 550w PSU. I want to overclock my CPU to atleast 3.5ghz but when I set FSB at 255 my computer freezes every time I start running prime95. I tried voltages ranging from 1.35-1.475 volts but I'm getting the same results. I also underclocked my RAM so it's running at 1000mhz.

What's going on?


----------



## xxbassplayerxx

Cleaned up some posts. Please refrain from derailing the thread. This is supposed to be about Gigabyte motherboards, not arguments about impossible thermodynamic situations.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Alright guys I just got this board (UD3) yesterday and I'm having trouble overclocking my CPU. My chip is a 1045t and i have 550w PSU. I want to overclock my CPU to atleast 3.5ghz but when I set FSB at 255 my computer freezes every time I start running prime95. I tried voltages ranging from 1.35-1.475 volts but I'm getting the same results. I also underclocked my RAM so it's running at 1000mhz.
> What's going on?


try lowering the multiplier of your cpu completely down to x8 or something. then try again in finding your max busspeed with 5 mhz steps, until you find your max. then raise the voltage slighlty, and make new steps, increase voltage, etc. then start raising your multiplier when your voltage is on your max, and lower the busspeed if you find instability.

not everyone does this so thoroughly, but it is needed to find your max (it is time consuming and a bit boring in the beginning). maybe your cpu or motherboard wont go higher. try also loosen the timings on your ram a bit.

in my expirience, the 990fxa chipsets dont go that high in busspeeds. the overclocks become more multiplier dependant.

which bios version are you using?


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> try lowering the multiplier of your cpu completely down to x8 or something. then try again in finding your max busspeed with 5 mhz steps, until you find your max. then raise the voltage slighlty, and make new steps, increase voltage, etc. then start raising your multiplier when your voltage is on your max, and lower the busspeed if you find instability.
> not everyone does this so thoroughly, but it is needed to find your max (it is time consuming and a bit boring in the beginning). maybe your cpu or motherboard wont go higher. try also loosen the timings on your ram a bit.
> in my expirience, the 990fxa chipsets dont go that high in busspeeds. the overclocks become more multiplier dependant.
> which bios version are you using?


I don't see the option to adjust the multiplier







Do I have to Ctrl+shift+F1 and enter advanced mode? So after each increment I have to go into windows and run prime95 to test stability? Sorry for being such a noob but how do I loosen the timings on my RAM?


----------



## Fordox

If you do it in the bios, it is the CPU clock ratio (which will be auto on stock). in that same menu, you see dram configuration with [PRESS ENTER] on the end of it, press enter while highlighting that option and you will see your timings. You can google your timings for your ram at stock settings (which will be revered as something like 9-10-9-27). those are the timings you need to play with. you can also see them in CPU-Z, but not change them.


----------



## Roadkill95

Thanks buddy, will try when I get home and report back.


----------



## Roadkill95

Alright followed your advice and am stress testing my CPU with FSB set at 250, and when I chose the "blend" setting in prim95 I get errors in 5 of the 6 workers, but when I set to to "Small FFT" I get none.

So, something is up with my RAM. I set the timings to the factory settings.


----------



## Fordox

when increasing your busspeed, you also increase your NB and HT speeds. try to leave those around the 2200 mhz.
a higher NB speed will increase stability in some cases, stick to this table:[/]

with these voltages:[/]

this will resolve some memory instability issues. Good luck









p.s. did 245 mhz work? maybe you just hit a frequency wall.

*CPU (MHz)**CPU-NB (MHz)*300019043100196832002031330020953400215835002222360022853700234938002412390024764000253942002666440027934600292048003047500031745500349260003809 *NB Multiplier**voltage*x3Autox4Autox5Autox6Autox71.175Vx81.175Vx91.175Vx101.25Vx111.25Vx121.25Vx131.25Vx141.3Vx151.35V


----------



## Roadkill95

It did







I followed your guidelines and loosened the ram timings, upped the NB voltage to 1.75v and vcore to 1.4 and now I'm running a stable overclock. But now I have a completely different problem of my GPU artifacting after a while, and I'm not sure if it's because of a faulty GPU or because of my cr#ppy PSU. Stability-wise, everything is running fine.


----------



## madbrain

I just received some 4x8GB of g.skill DDR3 1866 , model F3-1866C10Q-32GXL .

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-231-562&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-

I installed them in my 990FXA-UD3 rev 1.1 with F9 BIOS.

By default, the auto settings POST at 1333 speed.

I am not able to POST this RAM at 1866 . The motherboard always complains about overclocking error.
All the other BIOS settings except the RAM are stock. CPU is FX-8350 .

The specs for the RAM say it is 10-11-10-30 and 1.5V .

Things I have tried :

1) setting DRAM EOCP to DDR3-1866 .
That didn't work . It tries to set a higher RAM voltage and wrong timings.

2)
EOCP disabled
set memory clock manual
memory clock x9.33 (1866 MHz)

Under DRAM configuration :
CAS # latency : 10T
RAS to CAS R/W delay : 11T
Row precharge time : 10T
Minimum RAS active time : 30T

And leaving voltages as auto which should be 1.5V for the RAM.

But the mobo still won't post and complains about OC error.

Any idea ?


----------



## Roadkill95

@fordox, you really helped me out with that table mate, I'm now running a stable overclock of 3.7ghz(275 fsb) at 1.4v and ~2150 NB at 1.15v. I feel like I can push it a bit more, but but I'm going to keep it at this settings for a while. Thanks a lot, rep+


----------



## kzone75

Say goodbye to my little friend. It has served me extremely well and it will be missed.







With three CPUs, two 5Ghz validations and many, many, many hours of tinkering, I bow before the UD3 for its excellence.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Say goodbye to my little friend. It has served me extremely well and it will be missed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With three CPUs, two 5Ghz validations and many, many, many hours of tinkering, I bow before the UD3 for its excellence.


New motherboard?? which one?


----------



## kzone75

The one in the pic is the dead one. Using an Asus M5A97 Rev 2.0 for now. And I don't like it one bit.







Looking for a UD3 Rev 3.0 now, but I don't know if my local PC store can provide one just yet.
Or maybe I'll get the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> @fordox, you really helped me out with that table mate, I'm now running a stable overclock of 3.7ghz(275 fsb) at 1.4v and ~2150 NB at 1.15v. I feel like I can push it a bit more, but but I'm going to keep it at this settings for a while. Thanks a lot, rep+


The table isn't mine. it's from http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596023


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> The table isn't mine. it's from http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=596023


But still.. lol.

I'm running a stable overclock at 1.4v but when stress testing, vcore goes upto about 1.47v! ? Should I try and reduce my vcore as much as I can and see if it's still stable or should I keep it at 1.4v knowing that it's stable at these settings?


----------



## Fordox

try setting your LLC higher to high. i don't know if you have rev 1.1 or higher


----------



## Roadkill95

Yeah i have rev 1.1 llc is at ultra high


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> But still.. lol.
> I'm running a stable overclock at 1.4v but when stress testing, vcore goes upto about 1.47v! ? Should I try and reduce my vcore as much as I can and see if it's still stable or should I keep it at 1.4v knowing that it's stable at these settings?


Is your Vbost of 0.07v consistent? meaning you get 0.07v boost at 1.40v or 1.50v? just curious.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Is your Vbost of 0.07v consistent? meaning you get 0.07v boost at 1.40v or 1.50v? just curious.


It's not consistent, After about 30 minutes of running prime95 the max was about .07v, but then it went down to .025v afterwards. Generally speaking, it fluctuates between .025 and .07v.


----------



## Fordox

set your LLC lower. To aggressive LLC will result in voltage spikes.

But i also have expirienced a voltage spike on my ud3 rev 1.0. not to serious, .02 above the set value in the bios, but .06 above effective voltage


----------



## BBEG

Newegg shows a $20 price difference between the UD3 and UD5. I do not foresee using more than 2 graphics cards (though they will be OC'd). I will be OCing my 955. It looks like the primary difference is in how the VRMs & Northbridge are cooled, the UD3 loses a x8 PCI slot and gains a x1 slot, and... that's it? Is the UD5 worth the $20 premium over the UD3?


----------



## anubis44

OK, I have tried two different types/brands of ram in this 990FXA-UD7 Rev. 1.1, and I'm getting memory errors using memtest86 and memtest86+ with both. I think the motherboard either has bad ram slots, or there's some other kind of compatibility issue between this board and the Patriot and Corsair Vengence memory I've tried in it.

Has anybody else had any memory error/compatibility issues with this board? I am using the latest F10 bios, and I've tried everything at default settings (CPU/northbridge/HTT, etc.) I've tried running the Corsair Vengence DDR3-1866 CAS10 ram at SPD default, which SAYS DDR3-1600 in the bios, but then it boots up as DDR-1333 at the startup screen. I've also tried running the ram using 'profile1' setting, and it sets the ram to DDR3-1866, and it says 1866 at startup, but I still get memory errors in memtest86 and memtest86+. I have even tried swapping out my FX-8350 chip, and using my old Phenom II X2 550BE chip, and it's the same: memtest86 memory errors!

I'm going to try a different motherboard today, but I'm not totally confident it's going to resolve these memory issues. Will keep you all posted.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> OK, I have tried two different types/brands of ram in this 990FXA-UD7 Rev. 1.1, and I'm getting memory errors using memtest86 and memtest86+ with both. I think the motherboard either has bad ram slots, or there's some other kind of compatibility issue between this board and the Patriot and Corsair Vengence memory I've tried in it.
> 
> Has anybody else had any memory error/compatibility issues with this board? I am using the latest F10 bios, and I've tried everything at default settings (CPU/northbridge/HTT, etc.) I've tried running the Corsair Vengence DDR3-1866 CAS10 ram at SPD default, which SAYS DDR3-1600 in the bios, but then it boots up as DDR-1333 at the startup screen. I've also tried running the ram using 'profile1' setting, and it sets the ram to DDR3-1866, and it says 1866 at startup, but I still get memory errors in memtest86 and memtest86+. I have even tried swapping out my FX-8350 chip, and using my old Phenom II X2 550BE chip, and it's the same: memtest86 memory errors!
> 
> I'm going to try a different motherboard today, but I'm not totally confident it's going to resolve these memory issues. Will keep you all posted.


Manually set your timings.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Manually set your timings.


Best advice for RAM ever. I never let a PC decide what speed, timing's and voltage's are "Stock" or "Nominal".


----------



## Rauli11

Hi!

I just bought my new UD3!

Ihave problems though...

I set the fan control in bios to manual but all the fans run at max speed.

i also use a h70 pump attatched to cpu fan header.

I tried speedfan and other programs none of them worked...

EDIT: Revision 1.2


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rauli11*
> 
> Hi!
> I just bought my new UD3!
> Ihave problems though...
> I set the fan control in bios to manual but all the fans run at max speed.
> i also use a h70 pump attatched to cpu fan header.
> I tried speedfan and other programs none of them worked...
> EDIT: Revision 1.2


You can only control the CPU fan and the SYS 2 fan, the only have that have 4 pins. The rest have no control.


----------



## bmgjet

They do have control over easy tune 6. Or atleast all my headders did.
3pin ones are voltage only while the 4pin ones are PWM only.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> They do have control over easy tune 6. Or atleast all my headders did.
> 3pin ones are voltage only while the 4pin ones are PWM only.


The easy tune that came with my gigaboard only supported One system fan, and cpu fan. Allowed you to set a custom profile for it. Then again i probably was one of the first UD3 owners. I bought the board before bulldozer even came out. I will have to experiment by downloading the new version from the website to see if its any better than the junk that came with the board.


----------



## bmgjet

Its still junk but mine let me change all the fans since I was using it as a fan controller.
Its got a bug if you have it running while you use CPU-Z or something that uses thats libary.
It will report the NB speed as the same speed as the ram.


----------



## Rauli11

nothing still works...









maybe the board had faulty fan headers or something?

i tried all headers with different fans


----------



## Fokuz

Is there anyone who might have 15-30 (or even 5 maybe) minutes spare time, to help me understand a few basic concepts and answers for some "?".
Regarding in general:

Just reformated my computer, as I bought a SSD disk, as described in last post here in the club thread I'm a rookie and what I need help with, as when I search on google I just stumble over details of different oponions and different setups and so forth and if I find anyone with the same problem he has another motherboard or setup etc.

And as I'm a person who VERY EASY get stuck into details finding a very good tutorial of 90 pages of SSD-101, it easily creates the issue of reading stuff that I have no use for right now and I end up with 58 tabs in 3 clones of the browser. (and 12 hours later I'm reading about liquid cooling system setups, which I don't even have so yeah.)

*What I need help with is just: Basic explanation of what to do after a SSD-disk installation, (some different questions regarding firwmare, sleep mode blah.) But mosly how to take advantage to the motherboard functions and BIOS setup correctly with my system as I don't dare to tweak without someone guide me along, and last was just more simply recomendations of what software to use along with the this MB and Hardware.*

(One drive connected, placed regular HDD in the other computer shared it on network and also want to minimize the amount of software as much as possible, rather 1 good tweak program than 5.)

If anyone has time to help me with this, feel free to PM me or add me on skype, carl.lecander.

I would be mostly thankful as I wan't to learn how this stuff work, but don't want to experiment to much right now as I heard that tweak after configurations is correct regarding the SSD.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fokuz*
> 
> Is there anyone who might have 15-30 (or even 5 maybe) minutes spare time, to help me understand a few basic concepts and answers for some "?".
> Regarding in general:
> Just reformated my computer, as I bought a SSD disk, as described in last post here in the club thread I'm a rookie and what I need help with, as when I search on google I just stumble over details of different oponions and different setups and so forth and if I find anyone with the same problem he has another motherboard or setup etc.
> And as I'm a person who VERY EASY get stuck into details finding a very good tutorial of 90 pages of SSD-101, it easily creates the issue of reading stuff that I have no use for right now and I end up with 58 tabs in 3 clones of the browser. (and 12 hours later I'm reading about liquid cooling system setups, which I don't even have so yeah.)
> *What I need help with is just: Basic explanation of what to do after a SSD-disk installation, (some different questions regarding firwmare, sleep mode blah.) But mosly how to take advantage to the motherboard functions and BIOS setup correctly with my system as I don't dare to tweak without someone guide me along, and last was just more simply recomendations of what software to use along with the this MB and Hardware.*
> (One drive connected, placed regular HDD in the other computer shared it on network and also want to minimize the amount of software as much as possible, rather 1 good tweak program than 5.)
> If anyone has time to help me with this, feel free to PM me or add me on skype, carl.lecander.
> I would be mostly thankful as I wan't to learn how this stuff work, but don't want to experiment to much right now as I heard that tweak after configurations is correct regarding the SSD.


CLICK ME

Read it, memorize it. Perfect guide for newb's. It may seem long but its great. Will walk you though a full clean install of windows 7, the right way. And also teach you how to fine tune to take advantage of your new SSD while maximizing longevity.

If you end up with a more specific question post in that thread, or you can PM me unless its related directly to the Gigabyte mobo. Then post it here


----------



## Rauli11

Another question...

Hwmonitor only show the temp of "package" of my fx-6100.

tempin2 shows same temp as my amd overdrive does show for cores.

how can i get my core temps back in hwmonitor??


----------



## Fordox

http://majorgeeks.com/SSD_Tweaker_d6382.html

i used this tool and some tweaks of my own to not write everything directly into my bootdrive (which is my ssd).

This tool also does some things which aren't needed anymore. it is more for older ssd's.


----------



## Fokuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> CLICK ME
> Read it, memorize it. Perfect guide for newb's. It may seem long but its great. Will walk you though a full clean install of windows 7, the right way. And also teach you how to fine tune to take advantage of your new SSD while maximizing longevity.
> If you end up with a more specific question post in that thread, or you can PM me unless its related directly to the Gigabyte mobo. Then post it here


I know, it was almost too good. (Thanks Sean!) I found it short after I made my post here, (1day 14 hours ago appearently.)
Immeaditaly started to work trough it step by step, and now a cooouple of hours later I'm done. I'm too much interested in everything it get's crazy as at the same time can not get rid of the tendecy to strive for optimization as well.
Thanks for the URL anyhow! I'm so far at the point it's read and try my self now. When I bought the RIG my old idea of being a "professional googler" user just got blown away. It's not hard to google if you know what you are looking for...

But in my case with pretty much only the knowledge of each component's name "A graphic card is a circuit-board that u put into some slot where it seems to fit on the MB and then the PC becomes faster depending on how many decimals numbers that's listed before the xBytes/xHertz value" (Just before that assumption I thought Geforce GTX 650 was better than 580 because it starts with a 6.) ... almost kind of state.
You try to find a tutorial/tip on some specefic component, first of to find one with a similiar build or setup. Then if you do find one, how do I know that's the information for me? So gotta analyze more, then you end up with 10 tips from different people, but all of them different.

When I tried to google for the fan noice of my GPU-card myself, it was like;

"-Return it to the store". "-Drill inside the fan and drip some lubricant into it". "-Just remove the heatsink and sold on a new one + fan".
"-No, absolutely not modify it!" "-It's not the GPU fan it's the hard-drive". "-No, it's the drivers because you use HDMI connection".

Still not solved it, but I'm pretty sure it's the fan. What's wrong it I can't tell though. Maybe some adjustment in the positioning of the bearing that's in a wrong angle.
Thinking of selling my entire rig and build a new one, I actually think I can get more than I payed for it, the market is pretty wierd in Sweden.
Maybe actually buy kind of the same components, but with a Radeon card instead if I stay with FX. Yeye.. Out of topic sorry. Anyone got a Idea of the GPU noise issue, feel free to come up with a suggestion. It's described a little further up in the thread, 4 days ago or something.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fokuz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I know, it was almost too good. (Thanks Sean!) I found it short after I made my post here, (1day 14 hours ago appearently.)
> Immeaditaly started to work trough it step by step, and now a cooouple of hours later I'm done. I'm too much interested in everything it get's crazy as at the same time can not get rid of the tendecy to strive for optimization as well.
> Thanks for the URL anyhow! I'm so far at the point it's read and try my self now. When I bought the RIG my old idea of being a "professional googler" user just got blown away. It's not hard to google if you know what you are looking for...
> But in my case with pretty much only the knowledge of each component's name "A graphic card is a circuit-board that u put into some slot where it seems to fit on the MB and then the PC becomes faster depending on how many decimals numbers that's listed before the xBytes/xHertz value" (Just before that assumption I thought Geforce GTX 650 was better than 580 because it starts with a 6.) ... almost kind of state.
> You try to find a tutorial/tip on some specefic component, first of to find one with a similiar build or setup. Then if you do find one, how do I know that's the information for me? So gotta analyze more, then you end up with 10 tips from different people, but all of them different.
> When I tried to google for the fan noice of my GPU-card myself, it was like;
> "-Return it to the store". "-Drill inside the fan and drip some lubricant into it". "-Just remove the heatsink and sold on a new one + fan".
> "-No, absolutely not modify it!" "-It's not the GPU fan it's the hard-drive". "-No, it's the drivers because you use HDMI connection".
> Still not solved it, but I'm pretty sure it's the fan. What's wrong it I can't tell though. Maybe some adjustment in the positioning of the bearing that's in a wrong angle.
> Thinking of selling my entire rig and build a new one, I actually think I can get more than I payed for it, the market is pretty wierd in Sweden.
> Maybe actually buy kind of the same components, but with a Radeon card instead if I stay with FX. Yeye.. Out of topic sorry. Anyone got a Idea of the GPU noise issue, feel free to come up with a suggestion. It's described a little further up in the thread, 4 days ago or something.


can you post a video of the GPU(graphics card) in action. one of us on here will be able to identify the sound its making.

What every you do, don't get overwhelmed, every single one of us here was in your shoe's at one point or another









Yes, Sean went thought a lot of trouble to put that guide up. It work's great IMO.


----------



## anothergeek

What is the operating temp for UD3 VRMs?

Right now my VRMs are in the 50's at load, if I lower VCore they will go down some. VRMs idle below 20C however, so they are operating

The FX41 is ice at 40C, 1.425V set for 23X. I'm a little concerned for the VRMs I guess. LLC is set to extreme, but the vcore is 1.41 solid while gaming


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anothergeek*
> 
> What is the operating temp for UD3 VRMs?
> Right now my VRMs are in the 50's at load, if I lower VCore they will go down some. VRMs idle below 20C however, so they are operating
> The FX41 is ice at 40C, 1.425V set for 23X. I'm a little concerned for the VRMs I guess. LLC is set to extreme, but the vcore is 1.41 solid while gaming


VRM's are fine up to 90c. Beyond that is when you want to start worrying.


----------



## Mokona512

Hi, I was wondering, does anyone know of any driver mods for the gigabyte on/off charger?

it seems that it will only provide it's full power when an apple device is detected, which means those of us in android devices and tablets will not have USB charging support

eg with with my android tablet connected to my PC, it maxes out at 500ma but if connected to it's own charger, it maxes out at 2.1 to 2.2 amps
So I was wondering is there a way to either force it to run at full power, or alter the driver to make it react to non apple devices


----------



## l0max

http://valid.canardpc.com/2614660










NB is at 2666


----------



## billy66bare

That is one Cherry 955!!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l0max*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2614660
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NB is at 2666


You should redo your testing with a "Custom Blend" using 90-95% of your maximum RAM, 955BE's have crap for IMC's and tend to destablize at high clocks. Good job though:thumb:


----------



## talios

So had a question for all of the 990FXA gurus...

I recently purchased a 990FXA-UD3, Rev. 1.1, updated to the newest BIOS to replace some low end garbage Asrock I had been using. The intention is to eventually swap to an FX series CPU. As of now its Phenom II B55. This unlocked to a quad and overclocked stably on the Asrock board without issue. On the UD3 I have been able to achieve a higher overclock without issue...however its only stable with 3 cores, any three.

From what I've read these boards have a common issue with unlocking. While this is disappointing it will be a moot point once I swap to an FX CPU. My question is if this issue is a possible sign of any others or is it limited to this alone? In other words should I be going back to Fry's to demand a replacement?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *talios*
> 
> So had a question for all of the 990FXA gurus...
> I recently purchased a 990FXA-UD3, Rev. 1.1, updated to the newest BIOS to replace some low end garbage Asrock I had been using. The intention is to eventually swap to an FX series CPU. As of now its Phenom II B55. This unlocked to a quad and overclocked stably on the Asrock board without issue. On the UD3 I have been able to achieve a higher overclock without issue...however its only stable with 3 cores, any three.
> From what I've read these boards have a common issue with unlocking. While this is disappointing it will be a moot point once I swap to an FX CPU. My question is if this issue is a possible sign of any others or is it limited to this alone? In other words should I be going back to Fry's to demand a replacement?


some boards are better with unlocking than others. I wouldn't say the Ud3 is a good unlocking board, from what i read. Actually i have read a number of users report the same thing you did. So perhaps the ud3 isn't all that great at unlocking cores.


----------



## vonss

Been messing with the NB voltage lately because I have the theory is actually over-volted for OC purposes (Like the CPU's).
I would like to know if there is any "stock voltage" of the 990FX chip or what is the lowest voltage that it can run at.
Any info would be much appreciated, thanks.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Been messing with the NB voltage lately because I have the theory is actually over-volted for OC purposes (Like the CPU's).
> I would like to know if there is any "stock voltage" of the 990FX chip or what is the lowest voltage that it can run at.
> Any info would be much appreciated, thanks.


I have placed a table on page 394 which will help you out.

The stock voltage is 1,1 or 1,15V i believe.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> I have placed a table on page 394 which will help you out.
> The stock voltage is 1,1 or 1,15V i believe.


I meant for the motherboard northbridge, not the CPU-NB.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I meant for the motherboard northbridge, not the CPU-NB.


yep that's what he means...

Cpu NB is in the 1.25 - 1.3v area stock... the MB NB is 1.1 stock. I actually have mine at 1.2 (or close to, cant remember exactly) to gain video card stability. Not to sure as to the reasoning behind why It stablized my video cards under heavy load... But it worked.


----------



## kzone75

Miss you guys a lot. I can tell you that the onboard sound on the V Formula is rubbish compared to the UD3 I had. It's like all over the place, no matter what settings I try. lol


----------



## Fordox

Why didn't you buy another ud3?


----------



## kzone75

Would've gone with the rev 3.0, but the sales people had no way of knowing what revision I'd get. Not saying that I won't buy one later.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Miss you guys a lot. I can tell you that the onboard sound on the V Formula is rubbish compared to the UD3 I had. It's like all over the place, no matter what settings I try. lol


i think the onboard sound is rubbish anyways.

the crosshair v formula z has better sound than the ud3, just not the regular crosshair v

I put in my trusty creative TI -HD fatality , much better. Regardless which board you choose, on board sound ewwww. I do want a rev 1.1+ ud3 though, try this whole llc thing everyone raves about.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> i think the onboard sound is rubbish anyways.
> the crosshair v formula z has better sound than the ud3, just not the regular crosshair v
> I put in my trusty creative TI -HD fatality , much better. Regardless which board you choose, on board sound ewwww. I do want a rev 1.1+ ud3 though, try this whole llc thing everyone raves about.


My UD3 sounds better than my z68(sig rig)... kinda sad too. But in the grand picture they both sound like crap.
My venture's in PC sound have left me with the opinion that a nice set of headphones and USB DAC/Amp combo is the cheapest, easiest way to obtain heavenly sound quality from a PC. This can be done for $100-150, With sound cards and decent speaker's the price get's out of hand quick!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> My UD3 sounds better than my z68(sig rig)... kinda sad too. But in the grand picture they both sound like crap.
> My venture's in PC sound have left me with the opinion that a nice set of headphones and USB DAC/Amp combo is the cheapest, easiest way to obtain heavenly sound quality from a PC. This can be done for $100-150, With sound cards and decent speaker's the price get's out of hand quick!


haha i don't wear head phones. I just use my 7.1 surround sound, all nice quality stuff. Makes the windows shake, but sounds good.

Headphones even the really nice ones just don't cut it, for rich full effect audio, their only true advantage is you don't wake up the wife and neighbors while enjoying if your wondering, my surround sound is JBL 2x ES90 floor speakers, 4x es30 bookshelf, Lc1 center channel. Dual ES150p subs

All connected to a Pioneer SC-63 receiver. (i love having friends in the electronics biz)

(yes i game on my tv) 60" of goodness.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> haha i don't wear head phones. I just use my 7.1 surround sound, all nice quality stuff. Makes the windows shake, but sounds good.
> Headphones even the really nice ones just don't cut it, for rich full effect audio, their only true advantage is you don't wake up the wife and neighbors while enjoying if your wondering, my surround sound is JBL 2x ES90 floor speakers, 4x es30 bookshelf, Lc1 center channel. Dual ES150p subs
> All connected to a Pioneer SC-63 receiver. (i love having friends in the electronics biz)
> (yes i game on my tv) 60" of goodness.


Yea, about that price getting out of hand lol.


----------



## aznpersuazn

Great mobo, since I only payed $100 for it!


----------



## thetoe

Okay, this is annoying me greatly at the moment:

I just received my new GA-990FXA UD3, a replacement for a slightly broken MA770T-UD3P (network problems). Previously, I could run my Phenom II X2 550 BE easily as a quad-core @ 3.7 GHz. These settings were completely stable in two separate twelve hour sessions in Prime95. Now, I can't even unlock a single extra core without crashing very quickly. I've searched the net for answers, but it seems everyone trying to unlock cores on a Phenom with the 9-series motherboards have run into the same problem, and been unable to solve it. Is it actually impossible? If so, that sucks big time, because my unlocked 550 was still doing just fine in pretty much any situation and I wasn't going the replace it just yet.


----------



## Roadkill95

Right, got my new PSU and am trying to find my max FSB(1045 T), went up to 260 without a hitch, let's see if I can boot with 270.

Also, when monitoring temps, what reading should I keep an eye out for? coretemp or temp2/CPU temp? Because both Speedfan and Hwinfo are reporting that my coretemp is 19°c, which is kinda weird considering that the ambient temperature in the room is probably around 25°C.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetoe*
> 
> Okay, this is annoying me greatly at the moment:
> I just received my new GA-990FXA UD3, a replacement for a slightly broken MA770T-UD3P (network problems). Previously, I could run my Phenom II X2 550 BE easily as a quad-core @ 3.7 GHz. These settings were completely stable in two separate twelve hour sessions in Prime95. Now, I can't even unlock a single extra core without crashing very quickly. I've searched the net for answers, but it seems everyone trying to unlock cores on a Phenom with the 9-series motherboards have run into the same problem, and been unable to solve it. Is it actually impossible? If so, that sucks big time, because my unlocked 550 was still doing just fine in pretty much any situation and I wasn't going the replace it just yet.


Try using a older BIOS, it might help.


----------



## Roadkill95

Just booted at 3.5ghz on my 1045T at stock volts, am stress testing now but I have a quick question, whats temp 1 and temp 3 on CPUID and Speedfan for this board? I know that temp 2 is CPU temp but I have no idea what my NB and motherboard temps are.


----------



## Fokuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> can you post a video of the GPU(graphics card) in action. one of us on here will be able to identify the sound its making.
> What every you do, don't get overwhelmed, every single one of us here was in your shoe's at one point or another
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, Sean went thought a lot of trouble to put that guide up. It work's great IMO.


This is the stupid noise the gpu-fan is making. As demonstrated it's gone when I stop the fan with the fingers pushed against the rotor.

*Validation from CPUID if that is any information of interest*
http://valid.canardpc.com/2621375

*Video of the noice + Short blur visual insight of the system.*





*HW-Monitor Statistics*


*Software Installed*


*For you who missed out* previously explained I'm a pretty much hardcore armature in this stuff and this is my first build so I basically have almost no knowledge of hardware, but I'm enthusiastic to keep my system running smooth and always strive for optimization, so the situation is somewhat frustrating for the moment, but it's here to be solved.

*So if* anyone has any concrete explanation why the noise just appeared "out of nowhere" and if anyone has any link of configurations our smart things that can be changed, or bad things I've done with the system like, drivers, bios(untouched), programs. Please feel free to recommend me.


----------



## Loosenut

I had this happen to me on my old XFX 4890. turns out the fan was slowing pulling out of the fan motor. and that fan cooler looks just like the one that was on it too


----------



## thetoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Try using a older BIOS, it might help.


Tried the earliest one now, but it didn't help, I'm afraid.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Just booted at 3.5ghz on my 1045T at stock volts, am stress testing now but I have a quick question, whats temp 1 and temp 3 on CPUID and Speedfan for this board? I know that temp 2 is CPU temp but I have no idea what my NB and motherboard temps are.


TMP1 is the PBC area of the MoBo
TMP2 is the CPU Socket area
TMP3 is the Northbridge
I would recommend to use Openhardwaremonitor for temp monitoring instead of Speefan.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetoe*
> 
> Tried the earliest one now, but it didn't help, I'm afraid.


Then is most likely due to the 990FX chipset, as you mentioned. I guess if you manage to sell your current CPU, getting a 955/965 could be potentially really cheap and you will be set with that.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fokuz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This is the stupid noise the gpu-fan is making. As demonstrated it's gone when I stop the fan with the fingers pushed against the rotor.
> *Validation from CPUID if that is any information of interest*
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2621375
> *Video of the noice + Short blur visual insight of the system.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HW-Monitor Statistics*
> 
> *Software Installed*
> 
> *For you who missed out* previously explained I'm a pretty much hardcore armature in this stuff and this is my first build so I basically have almost no knowledge of hardware, but I'm enthusiastic to keep my system running smooth and always strive for optimization, so the situation is somewhat frustrating for the moment, but it's here to be solved.
> *So if* anyone has any concrete explanation why the noise just appeared "out of nowhere" and if anyone has any link of configurations our smart things that can be changed, or bad things I've done with the system like, drivers, bios(untouched), programs. Please feel free to recommend me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> I had this happen to me on my old XFX 4890. turns out the fan was slowing pulling out of the fan motor. and that fan cooler looks just like the one that was on it too


It could be the fan pulling off the motor, or the fan bearing is going dry(sewing machine oil works.. use a LIGHT AMOUNT). Or it could be that the cooler was placed on the GPU wrong and somthing(heatsink, wire's...) are interfering with the fan.

This is one of those things you need to RMA, or open it up and find out.. I would do a search for aftermarket cooler's that fit your GPU.. just so you have a back up plan and then open that bad boy up and see whats wrong.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> *TMP1 is the PBC area of the MoBo
> TMP2 is the CPU Socket area
> TMP3 is the Northbridge
> I would recommend to use Openhardwaremonitor for temp monitoring instead of Speefan.*


You get all the rep lol.

OpenHardwareMonitor is amazing(I use it on all my machines), but I personally advise to check with more than one temp program.. There can be some massive difference's in temps from program to program on the UD3/5/7 boards.


----------



## thetoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Then is most likely due to the 990FX chipset, as you mentioned. I guess if you manage to sell your current CPU, getting a 955/965 could be potentially really cheap and you will be set with that.


Hm. Well, that puts me in a bit of an awkward position, where I don't quite know what kind of computer I want. Do I replace my CPU with a newer one or my motherboard with a cheap one? If I do the former, I'd probably go with an FX-4300, but if I do the latter, I would have to know that it could unlock and overclock (unclock?) my CPU like my previous motherboard. All the cheapest ones in the shops here in Norway seem to be 760G-based. Anyone know what those can do? Another possibility is to switch to an Intel setup, which is what I intended to do eventually, but that would be rather cost inefficient now that I actually have a fairly up-to-date motherboard.


----------



## ebduncan

just pick up a new Pile-driver based Cpu and your done for now.

fx4300, 6300, 8320, 8350. are all good choices. The fx- 4300 is a good value, just keep in mind the 6300 is only 10$ more. I would personally get the 6300. With your board and low budget. Otherwise i would grab the 8320.

4300- 129$
6300-139$
8320-179$
8350-209$

prices per newegg.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> OpenHardwareMonitor is amazing(I use it on all my machines), but I personally advise to check with more than one temp program.. There can be some massive difference's in temps from program to program on the UD3/5/7 boards.


Yeah I have speedfan, Hwinfo and CPUID all open lol.

Also, all the programs reported the NB temperature as ~50°C, but when I actually touched the heatsink it was really hot, so I'm a bit afraid now. What would 50°C feel like? Like slightly warm, or burning hot? because it was definitely burning hot when I touched it.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Yeah I have speedfan, Hwinfo and CPUID all open lol.
> Also, all the programs reported the NB temperature as ~50°C, but when I actually touched the heatsink it was really hot, so I'm a bit afraid now. What would 50°C feel like? Like slightly warm, or burning hot? because it was definitely burning hot when I touched it.


50c would feel like 122 degrees F. So warm/hot your skin will burn at 140+ F .

generally its not a good idea to poke computer parts with your finger. Use a IR gun.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> 50c would feel like 122 degrees F. So warm/hot your skin will burn at 140+ F .
> generally its not a good idea to poke computer parts with your finger. Use a IR gun.


I know, I know, I poked at it only because my NB temperature dropped by ~15°C after I installed an intake fan in the front. It was quite surprising.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Yeah I have speedfan, Hwinfo and CPUID all open lol.
> Also, all the programs reported the NB temperature as ~50°C, but when I actually touched the heatsink it was really hot, so I'm a bit afraid now. What would 50°C feel like? Like slightly warm, or burning hot? because it was definitely burning hot when I touched it.


Don't rely on touch, Use an Accurate IR Thermometer or the temp monitor programs.

Using your sense of touch to figure out temps is pretty "back woods".

Your safe on NB temps to 75c-80c range. Anymore than that and your "burning up" your board. Do not touch it at those temps... You won't like it.


----------



## Roadkill95

Gotcha, thanks









Problem though, after stress testing it at 3.6 for more than an hour without a single hitch, I restarted my CPU only to be greeted with a message saying "system experienced boot failures due to overclocking". So after I went into the bios and changed some settings around, it seemed to get stuck in endless loop "writing a bios image.." (it finishes writing, restarts, so and so forth). Whats going on?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Gotcha, thanks
> 
> Problem though, after stress testing it at 3.6 for more than an hour without a single hitch, I restarted my CPU only to be greeted with a message saying "system experienced boot failures due to overclocking". So after I went into the bios and changed some settings around, it seemed to get stuck in endless loop "writing a bios image.." (it finishes writing, restarts, so and so forth). Whats going on?


your overclock is failing, and causing the computer to reboot. What ever settings you have set, are horribly unstable.

Your going to have to reset the cmos jumper on the board.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> your overclock is failing, and causing the computer to reboot. What ever settings you have set, are horribly unstable.
> Your going to have to reset the cmos jumper on the board.


I'm confused now, how did I not get any errors on prime95 then? Anway, I went into the bios and set everything to default, trying another setting now..


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Yeah I have speedfan, Hwinfo and CPUID all open lol.
> Also, all the programs reported the NB temperature as ~50°C, but when I actually touched the heatsink it was really hot, so I'm a bit afraid now. What would 50°C feel like? Like slightly warm, or burning hot? because it was definitely burning hot when I touched it.


Same, on HOT days mines peaks at 64c, usually 54-58c with my current OC. Without OC it can be around 46-50. (I'm also trying to undervolt it for lower temps when not OC'ed)
You should remove it and clean the pink TIM that comes with, it will help a lot.
I also when I touch is is really hot. In fact a friend got a UD3 rev 1.2 Last a week and after installing windows the NB HS was hot to the touch aswell. No OC was done. Is a issue that this MoBo have. Best is to replace them TIM and if possible, change the plastic pins with nuts, bolts and washers.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Same, on HOT days mines peaks at 64c, usually 54-58c with my current OC. Without OC it can be around 46-50. (I'm also trying to undervolt it for lower temps when not OC'ed)
> You should remove it and clean the pink TIM that comes with, it will help a lot.
> I also when I touch is is really hot. In fact a friend got a UD3 rev 1.2 Last a week and after installing windows the NB HS was hot to the touch aswell. No OC was done. Is a issue that this MoBo have. Best is to replace them TIM and if possible, change the plastic pins with nuts, bolts and washers.


I have some PK1 left over so i might actually do that


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Running an hour or two of prime95 won't tell you anything of real value. The goal with Prime95 is to let it run all the tests. With my i5 @ 4.7 it take's around 17-18 hours. You also want to use "Custom Blend" and set your Memory(RAM) usage up to 90-95% used(Don't forget to take into account how much RAM your PC needs for basic function.

After my machines pass a 17-25 hour prime test then I run IBT at maximum and fire up FurMark(Yes, both programs at the same time). When I was tweaking my 955/UD3 I could do 18-19 hours of prime95 Blend with 95% RAM usage but would fail IBT and Furmark.

I also suggest that you run these tests with the PC at stock settings, voltages and clocks. It can be a nightmare to trouble shoot faulty hardware + overclocking.


----------



## thetoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> just pick up a new Pile-driver based Cpu and your done for now.
> fx4300, 6300, 8320, 8350. are all good choices. The fx- 4300 is a good value, just keep in mind the 6300 is only 10$ more. I would personally get the 6300. With your board and low budget. Otherwise i would grab the 8320.


The 6300 is indeed a mere smudge more expensive, but I do not currently have any use for the two extra cores, and it runs at 3.5 GHz as opposed to the 4300's 3.8 GHz while consuming more power. Still, I suppose it's worth considering. Six cores could become useful in the future, and with sufficient cooling (I have a Noctua NH-D14) both CPU-s might have similar max clocks. Anyone have thoughts on this?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Best is to replace them TIM and if possible, change the plastic pins with nuts, bolts and washers.


yes

IF anyone interested in doing this, You need bolts that are smaller than m6. (m6 will actually work but keep in mind the threads will thread into the motherboard, not ideal)

I did this awhile back and use m6 bolts, and nuts with nylon washers. It really doesn't help temps to much but it does now make good contact with the board and is firmly secured. MY VRM heatsink before could wobble back and forth with little effort, I was actually getting a thermal shutdown on the VRMS, as my VRM heatsink was not making good contact with the board, and some of the VRM's went over 100c (causes thermal shutdown)

I personally replaced the thermal pad on the vrms with a high quality one. and used some antec formula 6 on the northbridge. The pink tim Gigabyte uses is a nightmare to remove btw.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> yes
> IF anyone interested in doing this, You need bolts that are smaller than m6. (m6 will actually work but keep in mind the threads will thread into the motherboard, not ideal)
> I did this awhile back and use m6 bolts, and nuts with nylon washers. It really doesn't help temps to much but it does now make good contact with the board and is firmly secured. MY VRM heatsink before could wobble back and forth with little effort, I was actually getting a thermal shutdown on the VRMS, as my VRM heatsink was not making good contact with the board, and some of the VRM's went over 100c (causes thermal shutdown)
> I personally replaced the thermal pad on the vrms with a high quality one. and used some antec formula 6 on the northbridge. The pink tim Gigabyte uses is a nightmare to remove btw.


Thanks for the tips on the bolts!
My VRM HS also rocks back and forth even when you barely put your finger towards it. ¿What thermal pads you recomend to replace the crappy stock ones?
It was a pain for me to remove the pink TIM from hell on the NB HS aswell. What I did was soaked it isopropilico alcohol and then used a soft, small plastic spatula to remove it, leaving the black edges as intact as I could, replacing it with MX-2. That for me was a huge drop in temps, from 10c to 15c.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Thanks for the tips on the bolts!
> My VRM HS also rocks back and forth even when you barely put your finger towards it. ¿What thermal pads you recomend to replace the crappy stock ones?
> It was a pain for me to remove the pink TIM from hell on the NB HS aswell. What I did was soaked it isopropilico alcohol and then used a soft, small plastic spatula to remove it, leaving the black edges as intact as I could, replacing it with MX-2. That for me was a huge drop in temps, from 10c to 15c.


i used this thermal pad for the mosfets

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16940/thr-171/Fujipoly_Extreme_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290

I just checked my my northbridge today, while was installing new water cooling hoses. I just put a thermal pad on it this time, instead of paste. This was less dreadful putting to much torque on the nuts/bolts and crushing my tiny northbridge., and also cool around the core ie the pcb. Temps are tad bit lower on it now vs the paste.


----------



## Roadkill95

As per KhaoticKomputings instructions I left prime95 open overnight and set speedfan to automatically turn off my PC if CPU temps got above 63C. It was off when I woke up, not because temps got high but because electricity has gone out during the night. I looked at the log and it seems prime95 ran for about 5 hours without a problem, but I'm not really sure. I'd appreciate it if someone could take a look at the (rather long) log and see if anything seems out of the ordinary? And don't worry it's virus free









https://www.dropbox.com/s/rezzdseo6v4wr4y/CPU%20prime95.CSV


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

A good start! The file just shows up as jumbled number's when I looked at it. When I was trying to do my 18 hour prime run on my intel we kept losing power... Drove me insane! 5 Hours is a good start. It would be nice to have been able to see how many tests your PC ran though before power loss. Good luck on your next run!


----------



## Fordox

It is quite wierd that my 8150 allways gives calculation errors in prime95 after about 3 hours. It appears to be a bug in prime95.
My system do is linx stable for over an hour, and that stresses the cpu more end the whole system it self compared to prime 95.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> It is quite wierd that my 8150 allways gives calculation errors in prime95 after about 3 hours. It appears to be a bug in prime95.
> My system do is linx stable for over an hour, and that stresses the cpu more end the whole system it self compared to prime 95.


I had a similar problem with my 955BE, after like 20-30 min it would crash. After some extensive google searching I found that the version of Prime I was using caused it. After changing versions I was able to test properly.


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Newegg shows a $20 price difference between the UD3 and UD5. I do not foresee using more than 2 graphics cards (though they will be OC'd). I will be OCing my 955. It looks like the primary difference is in how the VRMs & Northbridge are cooled, the UD3 loses a x8 PCI slot and gains a x1 slot, and... that's it? Is the UD5 worth the $20 premium over the UD3?


Bump for advice.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> A good start! The file just shows up as jumbled number's when I looked at it. When I was trying to do my 18 hour prime run on my intel we kept losing power... Drove me insane! 5 Hours is a good start. It would be nice to have been able to see how many tests your PC ran though before power loss. Good luck on your next run!


Sorry









I skimmed through the log and the highest CPU/NB temp was about 55/58°C, which isn't bad at all. The log shows straight up 80% CPU usage from the time it started right up to when power went out, so I guess there weren't any errors. But I'm gonna run it again tonight and see if I get different results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Bump for advice.


Well, I guess it depends on how much OC'ing you're going to do. At the kind of overclock I'm running right now, the UD3 is more than enough tbh. My NB temps and VRM temps are well within normal. But I guess if you're gonna do some heavy OC'in you'd be better off with a UD5 instead.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Bump for advice.


My opinion: No, The UD5 is not worth the premium. My UD3 has been running like a champ on my 955BE @ 4.0Ghz/2800CPU-NB for just over a year now. Its been rock solid for me and has ran though everything I put it though(still testing for 4.2Ghz+ stable lol). The best part is you will have LLC on your new UD3, as I got mine shortly after release they didn't have LLC.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I skimmed through the log and the highest CPU/NB temp was about 55/58°C, which isn't bad at all. *The log shows straight up 80% CPU usage* from the time it started right up to when power went out, so I guess there weren't any errors. But I'm gonna run it again tonight and see if I get different results.
> Well, I guess it depends on how much OC'ing you're going to do. At the kind of overclock I'm running right now, the UD3 is more than enough tbh. My NB temps and VRM temps are well within normal. But I guess if you're gonna do some heavy OC'in you'd be better off with a UD5 instead.


Prime should be placing 100% load on your CPU


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Prime should be placing 100% load on your CPU


I know, it's weird cause I was staring at the screen for a good hour and a half before I went to sleep and Speedfan and Openhardwaremonitor showed 100% usage on all 6 cores. The log shows only 80% at the same time so I guess it's an error in Hwinfo. I'll update it and see what happens.


----------



## BBEG

Thanks Roadkill and KK. I was learning towards the UD3 anyway but y'all gave me enough reason to pull the trigger on a new mobo.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I had a similar problem with my 955BE, after like 20-30 min it would crash. After some extensive google searching I found that the version of Prime I was using caused it. After changing versions I was able to test properly.


same with an other version (which i tested at that moment, not recently).

im permanently changed to linx.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> same with an other version (which i tested at that moment, not recently).
> im permanently changed to linx.


Personally I won't rely on any single test, I run a battery of test's before I call it "stable". Some say IBT is best, other argue that prime is the best. So I just use them all









I even go the extra step and run IBT and furmark on max for more than an hour to simulate absolute full load on the system, mostly to test thermals.. usually by the time I'm at that point in testing its stable.


----------



## BBEG

Just one hour?









(I guess overnight really is overkill then...)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Just one hour?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I guess overnight really is overkill then...)


Just an hour when I run IBT+Furmark


----------



## Roadkill95

Question, is it better to leave RAM timings to auto? cause it seems to be more stable that way (i.e I dont get the "boot failure" message. I think auto sets it at 6-6-6-21 while the regular is 9-9-9-25)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Question, is it better to leave RAM timings to auto? cause it seems to be more stable that way (i.e I dont get the "boot failure" message. I think auto sets it at 6-6-6-21 while the regular is 9-9-9-25)


I prefer to set everything manually, but Auto should be just fine. I would look into the boot failure at stock RAM settings and voltage's though.


----------



## Fordox

Yes i also do a range of torture tests and benchmarks.
Mainly, I use LinX with furmark/heaven and then a lot of pcmark tests, wprime, cinebench etc. i know benchmarks arent the best torture tests, but they do show my progress








I was thinking of putting OCCT in my range of cpu benchmarks/torture tests.


----------



## ebduncan

For what it is worth here is how I test.

follow this order
-Cinebench
IBT on max 20 runs
-OCCT for an hour.

Then I load up a game, usually battlefield 3 or Supreme Commander Forged Alliance, and play for a few hours. If it passes all these tests then I deem it stable. I used to use prime 95 with my old 1055T, now i don't really bother with it much anymore.

Anyways. Does anyone want a write up on how to use nuts and bolts to secure your north bridge and VRM heatsink to the motherboard better? Before you ask on why, here is the answer, Stock the gigabyte boards use a push pin configuration. This push pin config does not have enough mounting pressure to keep the VRM and north bridge Heatsink firmly secured and making good contact. The result is The VRM heatsink will wobble if you push it with your finger, if this happens there is a good chance your VRM heatsink is no longer making good contact with the board. The North Bridge also has the same problem.

Doing this mod will reduce your VRM temps, and your north bridge temps by a good margin usually 5-10c. In the case of the VRM's you will not go over 100c on them and go into a thermal reboot. (i had this problem before i did this mod as my heatsink didn't even contact some of the mosfets!)


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I prefer to set everything manually, but Auto should be just fine. I would look into the boot failure at stock RAM settings and voltage's though.


You think it's bad RAM? I'm running everything at stock voltage except for my graphics card. Also, I'm not sure if I went a bit overboard with thermal compound, because I followed the three line method as suggested by someone and now some of it is reeking out from the sides between the heatsink base and the CPU. I saw somewhere that too much thermal paste can be negative in terms of heat transfer, so maybe my CPU cooler can't dissipate heat quickly enough at start-up.

Anyway, I asked the same question in another thread and got a reply from a guy who's running his Thuban at 4ghz on air







Gonna try out his settings and see if I can push this to 3.8 at least, I mean I should be able to considering that I'm doing 3.5 (3.6 previously with no BSOD's or freeze ups) at stock volts. It's just that my other settings are probably way off or my cooler isn't strong enough to handle those kinds of temps. I'm running a Hyper 212evo with PK1 btw.

@ebduncan, thanks mate, I poked at my NB heatsink yesterday ( when my computer was off







) and it immediately lost contact with the NB







I don't know if that created any air pockets between the heatsink and the NB.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> You think it's bad RAM? I'm running everything at stock voltage except for my graphics card. Also, I'm not sure if I went a bit overboard with thermal compound, because I followed the three line method as suggested by someone and now some of it is reeking out from the sides between the heatsink base and the CPU. I saw somewhere that too much thermal paste can be negative in terms of heat transfer, so maybe my CPU cooler can't dissipate heat quickly enough at start-up.
> Anyway, I asked the same question in another thread and got a reply from a guy who's running his Thuban at 4ghz on air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna try out his settings and see if I can push this to 3.8 at least, I mean I should be able to considering that I'm doing 3.5 (3.6 previously with no BSOD's or freeze ups) at stock volts. It's just that my other settings are probably way off or my cooler isn't strong enough to handle those kinds of temps. I'm running a Hyper 212evo with PK1 btw.
> @ebduncan, thanks mate, I poked at my NB heatsink yesterday ( when my computer was off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and it immediately lost contact with the NB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if that created any air pockets between the heatsink and the NB.


Hard to say if its bad RAM or not but boot failure's on stock settings is never good. I would consult Memtest86 for this. You can also try to re-seat the ram, switch the sticks around(Stick A in slot B, Stick B in slot A)

You should take off your CPU cooler and clean the paste ASAP. Having it ooze out the side's means WAY to much. Depending on how much you got on there you might contaminate the socket upon removing the CPU. Use a small single line in the center, or placed diagonally. As you push the heat sink down on the CPU rotate it back and forth why gently applying pressure. All you need the TIM for is to fill "Micro-Fissure's" in the surface's of the metal's, So a thin film like coating is desired. Too much and it mess's with heat transfer(as you noted).

A thuban @4.0 should be easy... its the 9X5's that hit a "wall". What are you setting your CPU-NB freq and Voltage too?


----------



## Roadkill95

Right, took off my CPU cooler and it was an absolutely bloody mess in there. Wiped it clean and reapplied as per your instructions, don't know if it's still too much but this will have to do for a while because I'm out of PK1 atm. Needless to say I feel like an idiot.

My NB voltage is 1.175 and the freq is 2080mhz.

And thanks I'll run memtest overnight tonight.

Pics:
http://www.imgur.com/pxcJv.jpeg
http://www.imgur.com/n0GoM.jpeg


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Right, took off my CPU cooler and it was an absolutely bloody mess in there. Wiped it clean and reapplied as per your instructions, don't know if it's still too much but this will have to do for a while because I'm out of PK1 atm. Needless to say I feel like an idiot.
> My NB voltage is 1.175 and the freq is 2080mhz.
> And thanks I'll run memtest overnight tonight.
> Pics:
> http://www.imgur.com/pxcJv.jpeg
> http://www.imgur.com/n0GoM.jpeg


Still a tad much lol. But its ok, You should get good enough temps for the time being. Use about a 1/4 of what you show in the pic. You can also pick up some cheap TIM from a local store and spend an afternoon applying and removing. When I first started building PC's as a teenager I had to. I always made a massive mess with the stuff lol. general rule is: Less is more.

Your using the bus speed to OC arn't you?


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Still a tad much lol. But its ok, You should get good enough temps for the time being. Use about a 1/4 of what you show in the pic. You can also pick up some cheap TIM from a local store and spend an afternoon applying and removing. When I first started building PC's as a teenager I had to. I always made a massive mess with the stuff lol. general rule is: Less is more.
> Your using the bus speed to OC arn't you?


lol









Yeah I am, its 260mhz atm. But this setting seems to be pretty stable, I ran a 5 hour long prime95 session without any problems and then played BF3 for about three hours afterwards, only one crash to desktop and that was probably my GPU not getting enough power. ( didn't happen after I upped the voltage on it)


----------



## ebduncan

i've always used a razor blade to spread the compound across both the cpu and the heatsink/ water block, for a paper thin layer on both.


----------



## bigsobes87

Anyone have any suggestions on what SSD works best with the 990FXA-UD3?

I'm kind of a noob when it comes to building computers.

I'm currently considering either the OCZ Vertex 4 128GB, the Crucial m4 128GB, or the Samsung 830 Series 128GB, it would act as my boot drive, and would put a couple other key applications on it.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I am, its 260mhz atm. But this setting seems to be pretty stable, I ran a 5 hour long prime95 session without any problems and then played BF3 for about three hours afterwards, only one crash to desktop and that was probably my GPU not getting enough power. ( didn't happen after I upped the voltage on it)


OC with the multiplyer, Overclocking bus speed will also affect the Memory, also do you have a C2 or C3 revision?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigsobes87*
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on what SSD works best with the 990FXA-UD3?
> I'm kind of a noob when it comes to building computers.
> I'm currently considering either the OCZ Vertex 4 128GB, the Crucial m4 128GB, or the Samsung 830 Series 128GB, it would act as my boot drive, and would put a couple other key applications on it.


OCZ is meh.

Crucial all the way. just update the firmware


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Right, took off my CPU cooler and it was an absolutely bloody mess in there. Wiped it clean and reapplied as per your instructions, don't know if it's still too much but this will have to do for a while because I'm out of PK1 atm. Needless to say I feel like an idiot.
> My NB voltage is 1.175 and the freq is 2080mhz.
> And thanks I'll run memtest overnight tonight.
> Pics:
> http://www.imgur.com/pxcJv.jpeg
> http://www.imgur.com/n0GoM.jpeg


That's now how to apply TIM to a Hyper 212, you have to apply thin lines directly on top of the copper pipes gaps.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigsobes87*
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on what SSD works best with the 990FXA-UD3?
> I'm kind of a noob when it comes to building computers.
> I'm currently considering either the OCZ Vertex 4 128GB, the Crucial m4 128GB, or the Samsung 830 Series 128GB, it would act as my boot drive, and would put a couple other key applications on it.


I personally don't trust OCZ drives, I would go with the 830 if is around the same price as the M4, otherwise get the M4 as there is not much difference in performance other then in benchmarks.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigsobes87*
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on what SSD works best with the 990FXA-UD3?
> I'm kind of a noob when it comes to building computers.
> I'm currently considering either the OCZ Vertex 4 128GB, the Crucial m4 128GB, or the Samsung 830 Series 128GB, it would act as my boot drive, and would put a couple other key applications on it.


Honestly, out of all the Ssds you have suggested there... they are all great. You won't notice a difference between any of them in real world use.

The vertex 4 is based on a marvel controller like the crucial now. Its just updated and a bit faster. (I own one and its faster than my corsair performance pro ssd).

I would have to be honest and say get the cheapest one you can find.

You won't regret any of them.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> That's now how to apply TIM to a Hyper 212, you have to apply thin lines directly on top of the copper pipes gaps.


That's how I did it the first time round and look at how much gunk is in there! Anyway I'm buying more pk3 so I can always reapply if this doesn't work out. So far my temps seem a tad bit lower on idle but that doesn't really mean anything.


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

Way too much paste if it were me i would rub some onto the heatsink to fill the gaps between heatpipes and wipe away any excess.
Then i would put about a rice grain sized drop in the center of the cpu and then place the heatsink on.

This article gives a good explanation.

http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=170&Itemid=1&limit=1&limitstart=3


----------



## Roadkill95

Right I just posted this on the CPU forums, would really appreciate it if you guys could take a look as well. I'm stumped









I have a phenom II x6 1045T, a Gigabyte 990FXA UD3 and a CM hyper 212 evo and I've been trying to overclock it to 3.6 GHZ but I've been getting an intermittent "boot failure due to overclocking" message, regardless of what I do. Here's a list of what I've tried so far,

Bought new RAM and underclocked it to 1080mhz. Ran it with my old RAM and also without my old RAM- no difference
Tried a million different RAM timings including stock, auto and also from the OC'ing guide from dolk
Tried upping the voltage on the RAM to 1.6v
Tried increasing the CPU voltage to 1.425
Increased NB voltage to 1.175
Ran HT link and NB at the same frequency, ran HT lower than NB and also tried HT below 2000.
Tried increasing and reducing the NB freq
Tried increasing LLC
Tried reducing my CPU FSB multi and booting
Re-applied thermal paste

What really gets me is that I seem to run into this problem when I cold boot. I was running a successful overclock of 3.5ghz before and when I changed it to 3.6 it booted without a problem the first time round. I even ran a 10 minute prime95 session, my temps were well within range, and I didn't get any rounding errors. But after I tried to push it to 3.7ghz, I've been getting that message since. I'm genuinely on the verge giving this up because this is extremely frustrating. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> That's how I did it the first time round and look at how much gunk is in there! Anyway I'm buying more pk3 so I can always reapply if this doesn't work out. So far my temps seem a tad bit lower on idle but that doesn't really mean anything.


You applied to much per line then because that is by far the best method for the 212.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Right I just posted this on the CPU forums, would really appreciate it if you guys could take a look as well. I'm stumped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a phenom II x6 1045T, a Gigabyte 990FXA UD3 and a CM hyper 212 evo and I've been trying to overclock it to 3.6 GHZ but I've been getting an intermittent "boot failure due to overclocking" message, regardless of what I do. Here's a list of what I've tried so far,
> Bought new RAM and underclocked it to 1080mhz. Ran it with my old RAM and also without my old RAM- no difference
> Tried a million different RAM timings including stock, auto and also from the OC'ing guide from dolk
> Tried upping the voltage on the RAM to 1.6v
> Tried increasing the CPU voltage to 1.425
> Increased NB voltage to 1.175
> Ran HT link and NB at the same frequency, ran HT lower than NB and also tried HT below 2000.
> Tried increasing and reducing the NB freq
> Tried increasing LLC
> Tried reducing my CPU FSB multi and booting
> Re-applied thermal paste
> What really gets me is that I seem to run into this problem when I cold boot. I was running a successful overclock of 3.5ghz before and when I changed it to 3.6 it booted without a problem the first time round. I even ran a 10 minute prime95 session, my temps were well within range, and I didn't get any rounding errors. But after I tried to push it to 3.7ghz, I've been getting that message since. I'm genuinely on the verge giving this up because this is extremely frustrating. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


The only thing I can think of that could be causing that troubles is IF you updated your BIOS.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Right I just posted this on the CPU forums, would really appreciate it if you guys could take a look as well. I'm stumped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a phenom II x6 1045T, a Gigabyte 990FXA UD3 and a CM hyper 212 evo and I've been trying to overclock it to 3.6 GHZ but I've been getting an intermittent "boot failure due to overclocking" message, regardless of what I do. Here's a list of what I've tried so far,
> Bought new RAM and underclocked it to 1080mhz. Ran it with my old RAM and also without my old RAM- no difference
> Tried a million different RAM timings including stock, auto and also from the OC'ing guide from dolk
> Tried upping the voltage on the RAM to 1.6v
> Tried increasing the CPU voltage to 1.425
> Increased NB voltage to 1.175
> Ran HT link and NB at the same frequency, ran HT lower than NB and also tried HT below 2000.
> Tried increasing and reducing the NB freq
> Tried increasing LLC
> Tried reducing my CPU FSB multi and booting
> Re-applied thermal paste
> What really gets me is that I seem to run into this problem when I cold boot. I was running a successful overclock of 3.5ghz before and when I changed it to 3.6 it booted without a problem the first time round. I even ran a 10 minute prime95 session, my temps were well within range, and I didn't get any rounding errors. But after I tried to push it to 3.7ghz, I've been getting that message since. I'm genuinely on the verge giving this up because this is extremely frustrating. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


What BIOS version are you running. Some BIOS favor BD chips, other favor denab/thuban. its kind of hit and miss.
What are you power options set too? Things like AMD CnQ can have a dramatic affect on overclocking. For my Home Server I used a 1045t and overclocking was difficult on it, It required a lot of votlage and I had to remove the power options.


----------



## Roadkill95

I'm using F8, but it seems to be a common problem with gigabyte boards. Google "gigabyte cold boot problem"

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php/topic,6308.0/wap2.html

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/251063-29-overclock-passes-torture-test-fails-boot

? not the same board but very similar to what I'm experiencing. I'm thinking of RMA'ing the board now, this is really annoying.

EDIT: Forget about getting a refund, it's too late I'm stuck with this board for good now.

^I've disabled all power saving options.


----------



## Roadkill95

Merry Christmas everyone









I'll be celebrating my Christmas with my new-stable 3.6ghz OC on my CPU.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Merry Christmas everyone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be celebrating my Christmas with my new-stable 3.6ghz OC on my CPU.


Details?


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Details?


I flashed the F9 bios, but the problem is still there. The trick is to reset everything to optimized defaults after your overclock fails/freezes/BSODs, and boot to windows. Then shutdown, power on, go back to bios and start from scratch over again. If that doesn't work I clear CMOS and start again.

It seems to be a popular problem with Gigabyte boards, surprised that no one told me about this before.


----------



## billy66bare

I've had that a few odd times, but never randomly, and a BIOS flash way back cleared it up. Congrats on the new overclock and Merry Christmas to you, too!!


----------



## That_guy3

Would it possible for me to join? So glad we have a club for our boards. Gigabyte has never let me down. Thus my investment!


----------



## Fokuz

Problem details:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fokuz*
> 
> This is the stupid noise the gpu-fan is making. As demonstrated it's gone when I stop the fan with the fingers pushed against the rotor.
> *Validation from CPUID if that is any information of interest*
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2621375
> *Video of the noice + Short blur visual insight of the system.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *HW-Monitor Statistics*
> 
> *Software Installed*
> 
> *For you who missed out* previously explained I'm a pretty much hardcore armature in this stuff and this is my first build so I basically have almost no knowledge of hardware, but I'm enthusiastic to keep my system running smooth and always strive for optimization, so the situation is somewhat frustrating for the moment, but it's here to be solved.
> *So if* anyone has any concrete explanation why the noise just appeared "out of nowhere" and if anyone has any link of configurations our smart things that can be changed, or bad things I've done with the system like, drivers, bios(untouched), programs. Please feel free to recommend me.






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> It could be the fan pulling off the motor, or the fan bearing is going dry(sewing machine oil works.. use a LIGHT AMOUNT). Or it could be that the cooler was placed on the GPU wrong and somthing(heatsink, wire's...) are interfering with the fan.
> This is one of those things you need to RMA, or open it up and find out.. I would do a search for aftermarket cooler's that fit your GPU.. just so you have a back up plan and then open that bad boy up and see whats wrong.


*RMA:* What the Store-owner told sounded really crappy in my ears, something like: "-Eh We send it to Zotac if it's wrong and then if you are unlucky you have to wait up to several weeks and IF they find out that the error is caused by them initially I can get it repaired or compensated some way with something of equal value."
Don't know if he tried to scam me or whatever but yeah, so if it's the fan that's broken in some way;

*Fix it my self solution*First off, can it have anything to do with my configuration's which I tried to attach as much information about as possible. Like can it be some configuration in the bios that gives it to much voltage? (Don't dare to touch that stuff) Some fan speed configuration that I did wrong? Drivers? (AMD Chipset / Nvidia GPU) Or maybe it's the one hell of a wire-beast mess PSU (Corsair 650w something non-mod) that messes it up? As I said I knew so little about this stuff that in my world I can't exclude a non-physicaly damage of the card / fan before I knew more about this stuff. I have a old gfx-card laying around; Sapphire HD 4850 X2 2GB the fans is the same size as the one fan on my Zotac, but its un-removeable from the plastic bearing that holds it over the sink. (drilled into it). And the black bearing of the Sapphire is like 30cm or something.
Sounds like tricky stuff for me, I don't even know if I can destroy the card by touching a specific(random) part with my finger or if it's safe. If anyone has a good or amateur-friendly tutorial link for modding graph-cards I can take a look on that solution. Thanks for the reply.

This is how the old card looks:


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fokuz*
> 
> Problem details:
> *RMA:* What the Store-owner told sounded really crappy in my ears, something like: "-Eh We send it to Zotac if it's wrong and then if you are unlucky you have to wait up to several weeks and IF they find out that the error is caused by them initially I can get it repaired or compensated some way with something of equal value."
> Don't know if he tried to scam me or whatever but yeah, so if it's the fan that's broken in some way;
> *Fix it my self solution*First off, can it have anything to do with my configuration's which I tried to attach as much information about as possible. Like can it be some configuration in the bios that gives it to much voltage? (Don't dare to touch that stuff) Some fan speed configuration that I did wrong? Drivers? (AMD Chipset / Nvidia GPU) Or maybe it's the one hell of a wire-beast mess PSU (Corsair 650w something non-mod) that messes it up? As I said I knew so little about this stuff that in my world I can't exclude a non-physicaly damage of the card / fan before I knew more about this stuff. I have a old gfx-card laying around; Sapphire HD 4850 X2 2GB the fans is the same size as the one fan on my Zotac, but its un-removeable from the plastic bearing that holds it over the sink. (drilled into it). And the black bearing of the Sapphire is like 30cm or something.
> Sounds like tricky stuff for me, I don't even know if I can destroy the card by touching a specific(random) part with my finger or if it's safe. If anyone has a good or amateur-friendly tutorial link for modding graph-cards I can take a look on that solution. Thanks for the reply.
> This is how the old card looks:


Your store repairman is correct about the RMA, maybe a touch on the dramatic side though. You send the card back to the manufacture, they check it out and have the final say on if its "Working as intended" or actually "broken or faulty". If they deem nothings wrong they ship it back. If they deem that its broken they will analyze the "damage" and decide if it is withing the warranty to replace the card. It can take several weeks for this to happen, and the customer pay's shipping in my experience.
You can start searching the web about their RMA history and stuff to get an idea.

No, the bios, voltage, or any of that other stuff wouldn't cause this. Its a dry fan bearing or something touching the fan inside the cooler.

taking off the cooler shouldn't be too much of a problem, Most of them are pretty simple. Make sure you have appropriate supply's to clean and replace the TIM on the GPU. Be gentle, handle with care that sort of thing.








You might even try to contact Zotac coustomer support yourself and ask them what you should do with their product(be nice and polite!).


----------



## Fokuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> No, the bios, voltage, or any of that other stuff wouldn't cause this. Its a dry fan bearing or something touching the fan inside the cooler.
> taking off the cooler shouldn't be too much of a problem, Most of them are pretty simple. Make sure you have appropriate supply's to clean and replace the TIM on the GPU. Be gentle, handle with care that sort of thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might even try to contact Zotac coustomer support yourself and ask them what you should do with their product(be nice and polite!).


Ah, this was good news as it sounded pretty simple it's just that a lot of the words are very unfamiliar for me, I had to google up "heat-sink" "GPU" "bearing" to understand what this even was referring to physically. I don't have any thermal paste (if that is what TIM is standing for) so I skip checking the heat-sink for now, but regarding the fan itself If I got you correctly, did you mean that I should check if it's possible to open it up (I know Warranty is in my hands) and see if there is any dust or crap that's stuck inside, (or if it's dry) because this in my viewpoint sounds very logical now to be the issue when referring to how the noise actually sounds.. Thanks.

Anyhow if I got it all right, is there any part I should consider be extra extra careful when touching or try to not touch at all? I try to use my common sense, but sometimes my impassivity or creativity bypasses that. I don't have any anti-static-"bracelet"-thing. I always done like this. Turn of the PC. Remove the power connector from the PSU. Remove the power from the part I wan't to remove, Wait 30 minute's or something and then plug it out. Touching a radiator first. Then when handling the part for example the graphic card, I have tried to be very very gentle and not point my fingers on anything I don't know what it is or even the board itself. But Exactly how gentle do I need to be, can I, if starting with this method, take a pencil made of wood, and brush away dust gently from the card? I never dared except on the cooling parts. Yeah, thanks a lot.


----------



## NFleck

Finally making the jump to a new board from my trusty Asus m2n32-sli deluxe so I can get the most out of my phenom ii x4 cpu. Hoping this board will give me the same amount of life as her predecessor. Gotta wait til tomorrow to get some ddr3 since I didn't plan ahead.. But at least that'll get very me time to backup my stuff. Hopefully the oc'ing won't be too difficult. Anyways, that's my intro post. Thanks everyone


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> I've had that a few odd times, but never randomly, and a BIOS flash way back cleared it up. Congrats on the new overclock and Merry Christmas to you, too!!


Thanks,and might I ask, what bios are you running?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fokuz*
> 
> Ah, this was good news as it sounded pretty simple it's just that a lot of the words are very unfamiliar for me, I had to google up "heat-sink" "GPU" "bearing" to understand what this even was referring to physically. I don't have any thermal paste (if that is what TIM is standing for) so I skip checking the heat-sink for now, but regarding the fan itself If I got you correctly, did you mean that I should check if it's possible to open it up (I know Warranty is in my hands) and see if there is any dust or crap that's stuck inside, (or if it's dry) because this in my viewpoint sounds very logical now to be the issue when referring to how the noise actually sounds.. Thanks.
> Anyhow if I got it all right, is there any part I should consider be extra extra careful when touching or try to not touch at all? I try to use my common sense, but sometimes my impassivity or creativity bypasses that. I don't have any anti-static-"bracelet"-thing. I always done like this. Turn of the PC. Remove the power connector from the PSU. Remove the power from the part I wan't to remove, Wait 30 minute's or something and then plug it out. Touching a radiator first. Then when handling the part for example the graphic card, I have tried to be very very gentle and not point my fingers on anything I don't know what it is or even the board itself. But Exactly how gentle do I need to be, can I, if starting with this method, take a pencil made of wood, and brush away dust gently from the card? I never dared except on the cooling parts. Yeah, thanks a lot.


I'll elaborate a little on what I thing may be the problem. First, your GPU is going to be made up of a few different parts.

1. The PCB(Printed Circuit Board). The is the large silicon board with all the bits and bots attached to it.The PCB plugs directly into the Motherboard
2. The heatsink. This is a large hunk of cut metal(mostly aluminum) that is attached to the GPU PCB. The goal of the heatsink is the transfer heat from the GPU Core, and various other bits and bob's.
3. Fan and/or shroud. The fan blows the air across the Heatsink, removing heat from the GPU. Some time's there are shrouds acting as ducts to guide the air in a specific path.
4. I/O backplate. This is the small metal pice that actually bots to the case. The Video outputs are located on this part.

From audio of the video it sounds like the Fan is coming into contact with somthing(such as the shroud or heatsink, maybe even the power wire for the fan itself).

The other possiblity is that the bearing in the fan motor has dried up. The bearing is a part inside the fan that allow's the motor and blade to spin freely with minimal friction. The bearing needs Oil to do this.
There are many video's on you tube about how to take a fan apart to oil it. Its pretty basic stuff too. No large tools needed.

Yes TIM=Thermal Paste. Don't reuse TIM. Always replace it with new.

You don't need anything fancy like a anti-static bracelet. just make sure you reduce the static in your body as much as possible(by not wearing socks on carpet, ect) and discharge/ground yourself by touching a metal part of the case while holding the PCB's. Also, the less you touch it the less chance of frying it you have. You can use Cardboard(cut up cereal box) as a work mat. I would take detailed photo's before you remove ANYTHING from the GPU. Taking one apart is not hard at all, but if your new you might forget simple details like how the fan wire's are routed.

All you really need to accomplish this task for most GPU's are: Small flat head screw driver, Small Phillip's screw driver, TIM, Coffee Filter's, 90% or better Rubbing Alcohol. Some time's the Small Flathead Screwdriver's are handy for undoing the push tabs for the shrouds, Most all the screw's will be Philips head though.

Once its apart its time for the Rubbing Alch. and coffee filter's. Use this to clean the TIM off the heat sink and the GPU core. The rubbing Alch won't short anything out and will dry fast. Work's great for breaking down TIM. Coffee filter's are cheap, and by design are lint free. Once its apart, clean and sat for a bit to dry off some. Re-apply TIM(less is more!) and then assemble it again using the pic's for reference just in case.Take note of the fan. It must be able to spin freely without rubbing on anything.

Last bit of advice I can give you is to take your sweet ass time, Its not worth rushing and do not ever force anything. Always be as gentle as possible. If you do this right nobody should be able to tell you opened the card up in the first place.

I would strongly recommend sending the card maker's Customer Support team an e-mail before. Just asking what they think about the card.


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Thanks,and might I ask, what bios are you running?


I just flashed F11. I haven't had that problem in a while now though. I believe it also may have disappeared while I was reworking my radiators. Try unplugging the computer from the wall, then pull the CMOS battery for 20 or 30 minutes.


----------



## Fokuz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PROPS KhaoticKomputing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll elaborate a little on what I thing may be the problem. First, your GPU is going to be made up of a few different parts.
> 1. The PCB(Printed Circuit Board). The is the large silicon board with all the bits and bots attached to it.The PCB plugs directly into the Motherboard
> 2. The heatsink. This is a large hunk of cut metal(mostly aluminum) that is attached to the GPU PCB. The goal of the heatsink is the transfer heat from the GPU Core, and various other bits and bob's.
> 3. Fan and/or shroud. The fan blows the air across the Heatsink, removing heat from the GPU. Some time's there are shrouds acting as ducts to guide the air in a specific path.
> 4. I/O backplate. This is the small metal pice that actually bots to the case. The Video outputs are located on this part.
> From audio of the video it sounds like the Fan is coming into contact with somthing(such as the shroud or heatsink, maybe even the power wire for the fan itself).
> The other possiblity is that the bearing in the fan motor has dried up. The bearing is a part inside the fan that allow's the motor and blade to spin freely with minimal friction. The bearing needs Oil to do this.
> There are many video's on you tube about how to take a fan apart to oil it. Its pretty basic stuff too. No large tools needed.
> Yes TIM=Thermal Paste. Don't reuse TIM. Always replace it with new.
> You don't need anything fancy like a anti-static bracelet. just make sure you reduce the static in your body as much as possible(by not wearing socks on carpet, ect) and discharge/ground yourself by touching a metal part of the case while holding the PCB's. Also, the less you touch it the less chance of frying it you have. You can use Cardboard(cut up cereal box) as a work mat. I would take detailed photo's before you remove ANYTHING from the GPU. Taking one apart is not hard at all, but if your new you might forget simple details like how the fan wire's are routed.
> All you really need to accomplish this task for most GPU's are: Small flat head screw driver, Small Phillip's screw driver, TIM, Coffee Filter's, 90% or better Rubbing Alcohol. Some time's the Small Flathead Screwdriver's are handy for undoing the push tabs for the shrouds, Most all the screw's will be Philips head though.
> Once its apart its time for the Rubbing Alch. and coffee filter's. Use this to clean the TIM off the heat sink and the GPU core. The rubbing Alch won't short anything out and will dry fast. Work's great for breaking down TIM. Coffee filter's are cheap, and by design are lint free. Once its apart, clean and sat for a bit to dry off some. Re-apply TIM(less is more!) and then assemble it again using the pic's for reference just in case.Take note of the fan. It must be able to spin freely without rubbing on anything.
> Last bit of advice I can give you is to take your sweet ass time, Its not worth rushing and do not ever force anything. Always be as gentle as possible. If you do this right nobody should be able to tell you opened the card up in the first place.
> I would strongly recommend sending the card maker's Customer Support team an e-mail before. Just asking what they think about the card.


I have to say *thank* you a lot for the enthusiasm of helping me! You explained it very straightforward and solid for me to grasp. It's hard when you try to google and you find 1000 different opinions of what to do and what to not do and so forth. And when you are perfectionist and procrastination pro like i am (working on it) it can get very hard as I could analyze the problem in depths that I end up tunnel vision to analyze a debate on which rubbing alcohol is best for 12 hours missing that it was for ex, just a fan wire touching the fan which could be fixed in position in 2 minutes. or something like that. Well well, maybe better end this Graphic card discussion as it getting out of hands from the Thread topic (I don't know the exact rules here on OC.net but yeah.)

*So back to the GA-990FXA-Series stuff*
Speaking in general terms, shift the focus back to the motherboard itself, as explained before I'm new to hardware and there is a lot of question marks for me. I could skip trying to optimize everything and just let it be as it is but when doing that I will carry a subconscious stress knowing that I might be doing something very wrong or harmful to my system. Metaphorically speaking I feel like a Surgeon next to a newborn baby with a vital condition, carrying rusty tool and my DR. exam is based on a education from Comic-magazines. My current system is attached in the RIG below and what I'm asking for is if there is any good basic tips - links to pages that can give me brief explanation of common knowledge that's good to have regarding my system in general, or the motherboard / processor in specific. The question maybe is a little diffuse but when I google it feels like I always end up in discussions about people having a specific problem with the same or similar system and several people that are arguing for their self-claimed best solution, or suggesting to buy something else = Confusion. This is also why I ended up in this forum instead, to directly ask people with knowledge to get a more substantial answer.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> I just flashed F11. I haven't had that problem in a while now though. I believe it also may have disappeared while I was reworking my radiators. Try unplugging the computer from the wall, then pull the CMOS battery for 20 or 30 minutes.


Thanks bud, I'll try doing that.

I got that message again when my PC crashed due to unstable GPU overclock, but I got it working again by setting everything to default and then loading my OC profile from CMOS.

Also, should I push for 3.7ghz? max temp after 12 hours of prime95 was 56°C at 1.425vcore, but I've reduced that to 1.400v, haven't officially stress tested just yet but I did play a total of ~12 hours of BF3 without a problem.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Thanks bud, I'll try doing that.
> I got that message again when my PC crashed due to unstable GPU overclock, but I got it working again by setting everything to default and then loading my OC profile from CMOS.
> Also, should I push for 3.7ghz? max temp after 12 hours of prime95 was 56°C at 1.425vcore, but I've reduced that to 1.400v, haven't officially stress tested just yet but I did play a total of ~12 hours of BF3 without a problem.


Push for it!


----------



## billy66bare

Yep!, push it!!


----------



## Roadkill95

Prime95 has been running for a little over 11 hours now. Vcore is probably a touch too high (1.425), but max temps are fine so I'm ok with it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Yay! I finally got it up to 3.7! Thanks for the help guys, I might actually push it to 3.8 when I get my new case.


----------



## Roadkill95

Right, this is absolutely raping me in the a**hole. It was stable for over 12 hours on prime before and now when I turn it on, windows is all messed up, and with the 3.7GHZ overclock I get a black screen in windows. I have no idea what's going on, PC starts up normally until the loading windows screen, after that everything goes black. Doesn't happen on stock settings.

EDIT: set it back to my 3.5ghz overclock, still black screen in windows. I can hear the "welcome noise" or whatever you get when you start windows but the screen is black. I can even hear skype starting.

Is it my GPU or PSU? I have a Seasonic G SSR 550W


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Right, this is absolutely raping me in the a**hole. It was stable for over 12 hours on prime before and now when I turn it on, windows is all messed up, and with the 3.7GHZ overclock I get a black screen in windows. I have no idea what's going on, PC starts up normally until the loading windows screen, after that everything goes black. Doesn't happen on stock settings.


Perfect example of an unstable overclock.

I wouldn't call anything stable after such a short run on prime95, even if the memory usage was maxed. 12 hours isn't even enough time for an [email protected] 5.5+Ghz to run all the tests. My i5 2500k @ 4.7Ghz take's about 17-19 hours to run though all the tests. Your much weaker(ICP wise) and much slower clocked chip will take well over 24 hours. Not to mention your RAM speeds will also contribute(no offence but I don't think your rig has ram as fast as mine.

Clear CMOS and begin anew. I know it sucks to hear but this is the overclocking game. My 955BE drove me nuts trying to get 4.0Ghz "stable" (my i5 was worse...tons more settings in the BIOS than on any AMD system).

Also, for what its worth the difference [in the real world} between 3.6-4.0Ghz is moot unless you have maxed out your CPU-NB clocks in most applications. Gaming there is almost no benefit. If your doing work related stuff(encoding of media/rendering ect) You might be able to notice the difference between 3.6(3.7) and 4.0. I will say that the 1045t is a pretty snazzy CPU. I use it to death in my home server, but at stock clocks.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Perfect example of an unstable overclock.
> I wouldn't call anything stable after such a short run on prime95, even if the memory usage was maxed. 12 hours isn't even enough time for an [email protected] 5.5+Ghz to run all the tests. My i5 2500k @ 4.7Ghz take's about 17-19 hours to run though all the tests. Your much weaker(ICP wise) and much slower clocked chip will take well over 24 hours. Not to mention your RAM speeds will also contribute(no offence but I don't think your rig has ram as fast as mine.
> Clear CMOS and begin anew. I know it sucks to hear but this is the overclocking game. My 955BE drove me nuts trying to get 4.0Ghz "stable" (my i5 was worse...tons more settings in the BIOS than on any AMD system).
> Also, for what its worth the difference [in the real world} between 3.6-4.0Ghz is moot unless you have maxed out your CPU-NB clocks in most applications. Gaming there is almost no benefit. If your doing work related stuff(encoding of media/rendering ect) You might be able to notice the difference between 3.6(3.7) and 4.0. I will say that the 1045t is a pretty snazzy CPU. I use it to death in my home server, but at stock clocks.


Thanks, it lags like hell in BF3, which is why I'm trying to overclock it.

I cleared cmos and set FSB to 260 and booted at 3.5, Gonna stress test for at least 24 hours this time. Is it good for the CPU to run for such a long time at 100% load? Also you're correct in assuming I have slow ram, it's running at ~1000mhz.

This is much harder than I thought tbh. Next time I'm just gonna buy the fastest processor available and be done with it.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Thanks, it lags like hell in BF3, which is why I'm trying to overclock it.
> I cleared cmos and set FSB to 260 and booted at 3.5, Gonna stress test for at least 24 hours this time. Is it good for the CPU to run for such a long time at 100% load? Also you're correct in assuming I have slow ram, it's running at ~1000mhz.
> This is much harder than I thought tbh. Next time I'm just gonna buy the fastest processor available and be done with it.


running at 1000mhz? you mean ddr3 2000? cause that's not what I would call slow ram... what are your timings?


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> running at 1000mhz? you mean ddr3 2000? cause that's not what I would call slow ram... what are your timings?


No I mean DDR3 1000, sorry I thought it was in mhz. I've set it on auto currently.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> No I mean DDR3 1000, sorry I thought it was in mhz. I've set it on auto currently.


pretty sure the ram should do at least 1333. Unless you have ddr 3 1066 ram.

might actually be your problem. DDR3 1000 would mean your memory is running at 500mhz. Quite slow. Perhaps try getting your memory to 1333 and running 9-9-9-24 timings.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> pretty sure the ram should do at least 1333. Unless you have ddr 3 1066 ram.
> might actually be your problem. DDR3 1000 would mean your memory is running at 500mhz. Quite slow. Perhaps try getting your memory to 1333 and running 9-9-9-24 timings.


The thing is because I do FSB OC'ing if I step the multiplier up a notch it goes over 1333mhz, which is it's default speed.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> The thing is because I do FSB OC'ing if I step the multiplier up a notch it goes over 1333mhz, which is it's default speed.


then i would suggest getting some of these ram sticks

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096

they are quite good, and overclock like mad. Many people going over 2133 on these. These are the new 30nm ram chips.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> then i would suggest getting some of these ram sticks
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096
> they are quite good, and overclock like mad. Many people going over 2133 on these. These are the new 30nm ram chips.


Oh god not another upgrade









Would it be impossible to work with what I have? Also is it safe to stress test your CPU for 24hrs?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Oh god not another upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would it be impossible to work with what I have? Also is it safe to stress test your CPU for 24hrs?


stress testing doesn't hurt the cpu, unless its over its voltage threshold or temperature.

you can use what you have, but if your using the bus to overclock, then quality memory will certainly help, as it allows you to be more flexible with the multipliers


----------



## rawsteel

Which disk controller should one use when installing windows 7 on a WD black hard drive ? AMD SATA AHCI Driver or the Microsoft AHCI Driver or just leave it on IDE mode.

Was going to use the AMD SATA AHCI Driver from http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#dl


----------



## BBEG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> then i would suggest getting some of these ram sticks
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820147096
> they are quite good, and overclock like mad. Many people going over 2133 on these. These are the new 30nm ram chips.


Dumb question from the uninitiated: can you simply add another pair for 16GB, or does it have to come as a 16GB kit? Memory is not my strong suit.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Dumb question from the uninitiated: can you simply add another pair for 16GB, or does it have to come as a 16GB kit? Memory is not my strong suit.


you can mismatch memory kits. However both have to have the same voltage requirements. If adding more ram to your current ram, then keep in mind you will have to run the voltage of the higher kits, and the timings/speed as the lower speed mem.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Dumb question from the uninitiated: can you simply add another pair for 16GB, or does it have to come as a 16GB kit? Memory is not my strong suit.


Buy two for 16 gigs. 99.9% of the time it will work. There is that one off chance(very rare) that two of the exact same RAM kits just won't work well together.

On a side note, it is unwise to populate all 4 dimm's with larger capacity sticks if you intend to overclock. Full population of high capacity RAM will add stress to the Phenom's already weak Internal Memory Controller.


----------



## BBEG

Then 8GB's as good as RAM will get for me if I were to use the Samsung memory? Eh. Gonna stick with my guns on Crucial Ballistix Tactical low-pro then. I can get 16GB on two sticks out of that and leave the other two open to prevent issues when overclocking.

(The Vengeance in my sig rig was a very appreciated X-mas gift and is certainly an upgrade over the OEM that I had, but I get occasional freezes in some FPSs that I never had before too. Hence my shopping for new memory. Again.)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Then 8GB's as good as RAM will get for me if I were to use the Samsung memory? Eh. Gonna stick with my guns on Crucial Ballistix Tactical low-pro then. I can get 16GB on two sticks out of that and leave the other two open to prevent issues when overclocking.
> (The Vengeance in my sig rig was a very appreciated X-mas gift and is certainly an upgrade over the OEM that I had, but I get occasional freezes in some FPSs that I never had before too. Hence my shopping for new memory. Again.)


It will stress the memory controller the same.

You can do 16 gig's in any way you like, just letting you know that adding more than 4-8 gig's will affect overclocking(and is totally useless in most PC's), how much is up to debate. Might not even affect it at all.

Crucial RAM is ok, the Samsung is currently some of the best sticks on the market. Its all but set in stone that the Samsung RAM will take to overclocking better than anything else you can buy.


----------



## BBEG

It's the amount of RAM vs how the amount is acquired? Hm. I guess Sammy it is when my new mobo comes in. Not complaining, though; if $35 can cover me for the life of the board then it's cheaper for me in the long run.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> It's the amount of RAM vs how the amount is acquired? Hm. I guess Sammy it is when my new mobo comes in. Not complaining, though; if $35 can cover me for the life of the board then it's cheaper for me in the long run.


Overall amount has less of an impact as populating all the DIMM's. However, this shouldn't be a mountains out of mole hills subject. Just because you populate all the DIMM's with a large capacity of RAM dose not mean you are doomed and cannot overclock. Only that it add's one more thing to trip you up.
In most case's adding freq and/or voltage to the CPU-NB can relive the "problem" if one show's up.

It all boils down to your needs. If you actually have a use for 16Gb of RAM it might be worth it to go that far. But if this is just a gaming rig its pointless. You can get more performance out of the machine with heavy overclocking and 8 gig's. Most "common" user's will be hard pressed to use 4Gb. 8Gb is the sweet spot for performance nuts/gamer's. Its more than enough to run tons of web brower's, watch a blu ray and play a heavy duty game(BF3 or similar) and still not come close to eating 8gb. Can I ask what you had planned for so much RAM?


----------



## BBEG

Dwarf fortress and VMs.









I'm building up my Phenom rig to be a Crysis 3 Lite machine (mobo first, then GPU, then watercooling stuff), generally speaking, but will also be using it to learn VMs. I don't know how much RAM that will ultimately occupy but my understanding with VMs is that given the choice, more memory is better. If the mem controller of the Phenom isn't so great, I'll simply be happy with 8GB and drive on. Saves me some $70 to put towards the a 670 or 7950.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Thanks, it lags like hell in BF3, which is why I'm trying to overclock it.
> I cleared cmos and set FSB to 260 and booted at 3.5, Gonna stress test for at least 24 hours this time. Is it good for the CPU to run for such a long time at 100% load? Also you're correct in assuming I have slow ram, it's running at ~1000mhz.
> This is much harder than I thought tbh. Next time I'm just gonna buy the fastest processor available and be done with it.


You either got a bad chip or you don't have the proper platform to make that OC stable, IMHO. ¿You are remembering to OC the CPU-NB and HT Link aswell, right?
¿And why are you running the RAM so slow?


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Dwarf fortress and VMs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm building up my Phenom rig to be a Crysis 3 Lite machine (mobo first, then GPU, then watercooling stuff), generally speaking, but will also be using it to learn VMs. I don't know how much RAM that will ultimately occupy but my understanding with VMs is that given the choice, more memory is better. If the mem controller of the Phenom isn't so great, I'll simply be happy with 8GB and drive on. Saves me some $70 to put towards the a 670 or 7950.


Well, besides what has been said, unless you plan to use the AMD Ramdisk, more then 8GB is a waste of money.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBEG*
> 
> Dwarf fortress and VMs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm building up my Phenom rig to be a Crysis 3 Lite machine (mobo first, then GPU, then watercooling stuff), generally speaking, but will also be using it to learn VMs. I don't know how much RAM that will ultimately occupy but my understanding with VMs is that given the choice, more memory is better. If the mem controller of the Phenom isn't so great, I'll simply be happy with 8GB and drive on. Saves me some $70 to put towards the a 670 or 7950.


DF cannot use 8gb of ram









As for the VM's you might actually have a legitimate claim to using 16Gb's. It all depends on what you want to do with the VM's in the first place. It also depends on how many. On my home server I run VM's with only 8gb of RAM. Its plenty to experiment with and learn about them.

in your case its a matter of what is more important. Goofing around with VM's or goofing around with a potentially higher overclock.


----------



## Roadkill95

Right so if I set my FSB to 260 and the RAM multiplier at 5.33 my RAM speed goes upto DDR3 1385. My RAM should be able to handle that, only question is should I used factory timings, auto timings or timings a bit looser than factory? Should I leave it at stock voltage or bump it upto 1.6?


----------



## Fordox

try to keep it at stock timings and stock voltages according to the specs of your ram. if it is unstable, increase voltage or loosen your timings.

if that doesnt work, then something other than your memory is unstable


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel*
> 
> Which disk controller should one use when installing windows 7 on a WD black hard drive ? AMD SATA AHCI Driver or the Microsoft AHCI Driver or just leave it on IDE mode.
> Was going to use the AMD SATA AHCI Driver from http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#dl


Use the AMD AHCI driver and make sure it's set to AHCI in the BIOS or you might as well use an IDE drive.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> Use the AMD AHCI driver and make sure it's set to AHCI in the BIOS or you might as well use an IDE drive.


The only drivers that you need from the page are the Audio, Lan and USB 3.0. The rest is here: http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/Pages/raid_windows.aspx#2


----------



## Fordox

thanks, i was searching for the official AMD drivers a whila ago and couldn't find them.


----------



## NFleck

Hello guys. Finally got my new 990fxa-ud7 rev1.1 up and running.. but still just using the automatic settings. I've done some tweaking with my previous board (asus m2n32-sli deluxe), but mostly just used PMT to control my clock speed and voltages.. What I'm wondering is if anyone cane give me an idea of their setup; using similar hardware.

Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 Rev 1.1 (BIOS F10)
CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 BE
Cooler: Antec Kuhler H2O 620 Liquid Cooling System
Ram: Kingston 8GB DDR3 - 1600 CL9 240-Pin UDIMM Kit (2x4GB)
GPU: BFG GeForce GTX 275

---

I'm thinking set the DRAM Timings to 9-9-9-7, and the Voltage Control to 1.65v (as per the rams' specs).. Upgrading from an AM2+ board -- I really want to see how much I can get out of my new hardware. However, I'm still pretty new to OCing, but hoping someone here can point me in the right direction for info.. Also, with the BE, is it a better idea for me to simply up the multiplier, or should I try to get a balance of clock speed and multi to reach my goal?


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFleck*
> 
> Hello guys. Finally got my new 990fxa-ud7 rev1.1 up and running.. but still just using the automatic settings. I've done some tweaking with my previous board (asus m2n32-sli deluxe), but mostly just used PMT to control my clock speed and voltages.. What I'm wondering is if anyone cane give me an idea of their setup; using similar hardware.
> Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 Rev 1.1 (BIOS F10)
> CPU: AMD Phenom II x4 955 BE
> Cooler: Antec Kuhler H2O 620 Liquid Cooling System
> Ram: Kingston 8GB DDR3 - 1600 CL9 240-Pin UDIMM Kit (2x4GB)
> GPU: BFG GeForce GTX 275
> ---
> I'm thinking set the DRAM Timings to 9-9-9-7, and the Voltage Control to 1.65v (as per the rams' specs).. Upgrading from an AM2+ board -- I really want to see how much I can get out of my new hardware. However, I'm still pretty new to OCing, but hoping someone here can point me in the right direction for info.. Also, with the BE, is it a better idea for me to simply up the multiplier, or should I try to get a balance of clock speed and multi to reach my goal?


I guess you can try setting the CPU @ 4.0GHz with the vcore on 1.450v/1.500v range and the CPU-NB @ 2400/2600 with 1.225v/1.300v and then test with Prime95 Blend test for a few hours.


----------



## NFleck

Thanks, I'll give that a shot.








Ram timings and voltage good @ 9-9-9-27 & 1.65v and x8.0 (1600) in bios?


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFleck*
> 
> Thanks, I'll give that a shot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ram timings and voltage good @ 9-9-9-27 & 1.65v and x8.0 (1600) in bios?


The timing are, but IMO, the voltage should be 1.5v unless they are 1333MHz RAM and you are OC'ing 'em.


----------



## NFleck

I'm just going by the specs listed on newegg. I'll try 1.5 and see how stable it is.


----------



## vonss

You should manually set what it says on the blister/package, not what it says in Newegg.
Good luck, since in my _personal experience_ the HyperX series are utter crap.


----------



## NFleck

I bought it just to get the system up and running.. I had no DDR3 ram on hand (just upgraded from an am2+ system), almost no money left, and that's all the local Canada Computer had in stock for the price.. I'm probably going to grab two 8gb sticks when I can afford it. Also, it's 1600, and the case it came in gives no timings.. Just says "8GB DDR3 - 1600 CL9 240 - Pin UDIMM Kit (2x4GB)"


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFleck*
> 
> I bought it just to get the system up and running.. I had no DDR3 ram on hand (just upgraded from an am2+ system), almost no money left, and that's all the local Canada Computer had in stock for the price.. I'm probably going to grab two 8gb sticks when I can afford it. Also, it's 1600, and the case it came in gives no timings.. Just says "8GB DDR3 - 1600 CL9 240 - Pin UDIMM Kit (2x4GB)"


I understand being on a tight budget, trust me. Ha, typical Kingston, dosen't even says the timings.
Doing some diggin', they have to run with 1.65V to have 9-9-9 @ 1600MHz.

EDIT: ¿Can't you use the pre-sets with E.O.C.P (XMP)?


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> You should manually set what it says on the blister/package, not what it says in Newegg.
> Good luck, since in my _personal experience_ the HyperX series are utter crap.


+1
-1









The HyperX series, isn't the best, but also aren't the worst.
the most populair and crap ddr memory, is the corsair vengeance :X baseclock 2 tiks up, bluescreen because of memory...

My next memory will probably be a G Skill or corsair dominator


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> +1
> -1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HyperX series, isn't the best, but also aren't the worst.
> the most populair and crap ddr memory, is the corsair vengeance :X baseclock 2 tiks up, bluescreen because of memory...
> My next memory will probably be a G Skill or corsair dominator


Oh yeah, Corsair Vengeance looks top notch, but sadly are quite mediocre for what I've heard/read.
I'm always grateful that my retailer was OOS of Vengeance and instead got my RipjawsX.


----------



## NFleck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rawsteel*
> 
> Which disk controller should one use when installing windows 7 on a WD black hard drive ? AMD SATA AHCI Driver or the Microsoft AHCI Driver or just leave it on IDE mode.
> Was going to use the AMD SATA AHCI Driver from http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3891#dl
> 
> 
> 
> Use the AMD AHCI driver and make sure it's set to AHCI in the BIOS or you might as well use an IDE drive.
Click to expand...

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I seem to be a little confused as to what is the best mode to use for my sata hdd(s).
I have a newer 320gb sata drive, and an older 80b sata drive, and an older sata dvd burner.. I just got a new GA-990fxa-ud7 board, and trying to set my hdd's up using AHCI mode, but I'm having nothing but problems after doing so. First, I get random freezing when trying to open the 80gb drive to view files (currently have my backup on it from my old mobo). Second, I seem to have a lot of problems with my usb for some reason.. The mouse will randomly not work on startup (have the unplug and re-insert it to get it to work and sometimes only a reset will fix it.), and also having problems with my usb wireless adapter.. It's like 5 feet away from my router and it's capped at ~ 300-400KBps download speed.. It went up to 1.2MBps after installing or uninstalling a driver.. but I can't remember what I did.. lol. It was either when I un/installed the etron usb 3.0 driver, or the amd sb/usb/ahci driver The adpater is a bit older.. (belkin wireless g usb adpapter with latest driver).

I read that setting up a raid array should only be done with drives that have similar storage and speed specs.. So I'm guessing that's not a good idea.. But I'm wondering if I should be using the default "Native IDE", or the "AHCI" mode for my setup.. or should I put the older drive and dvd drive on sata5/6 and set those to ide, and have the newer hdd set to ahci? or keep them as-is (320gb (sata0 master) -- 80gb (sata0 slave) -- DVD-Burner (sata1 master))... Is it even worth using AHCI if I don't have a SSD?

*edit*: I have installed the latest amd ahci drivers from their site (12-10_vista_win7_win8_32-64_sb.exe), as mentioned.. and I did a fresh installation of win7 after switching to AHCI in the bios. (however, I install the ahci drivers after windows is installed.. I havn't tried adding the ahci driver during the installation.. is that a problem at all?)

*edit 2*: Also, I notices that while installing windows in IDE mode, the first loading bar loaded way faster while on ahci mode, and much much slower on the default "native ide".. however, during installation, on the "expanding files" portion, it seemed that the ide performed much faster, taking only like 5 minutes, while the ahci installation took more like 30 minutes.. very strange.. anyone?

---
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I understand being on a tight budget, trust me. Ha, typical Kingston, dosen't even says the timings.
> Doing some diggin', they have to run with 1.65V to have 9-9-9 @ 1600MHz.


So you suggest not running it at 9-9-9-27 @ 1.65v? maybe lower (or raise) the timings and lower to voltage? I want to use 1600 if possible, unless that's going to be pushing it too far?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> EDIT: ¿Can't you use the pre-sets with E.O.C.P (XMP)?


I havn't even gotten that far.. I seem to be having a lot of problems with my usb wireless adapter.. And last night I spent hours trying to get the AHCI setting to work.. with little success.. Do you just use the pre-sets and multiplier to oc? I have a BE cpu.. but should I oc using a combination of clock speed and multi? or just use the multi and set it to 200x20 with 1600 pre-set ram?


----------



## rarnold

Anyone running this with 32GB of RAM? I am wanting to build my own virtual environment and was curious if anyone has any stability issues and what type of RAM you're using. Thanks!


----------



## billy66bare

You can't change drivers after you've installed Windows easily. There are ways, though, if you Google, I've done it before. Matter of fact, here. LOL http://www.overclock.net/t/1227636/how-to-change-sata-modes-after-windows-7-installation

If you need the timings of your RAM use CPUz. It will tell you the SPD for your RAM. After that just set them manually in the BIOS. If you are still having problems run MEMTEST86+ through a loop or two.


----------



## NFleck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> You can't change drivers after you've installed Windows easily. There are ways, though, if you Google, I've done it before. Matter of fact, here. LOL http://www.overclock.net/t/1227636/how-to-change-sata-modes-after-windows-7-installation


I just got this mobo, and I have nothing installed.. so reinstalling windows is not a problem.. I've done it like 5 times already since yesterday. That doesn't really have anything to do with my problem. Maybe try reading it again?

Quote:


> If you need the timings of your RAM use CPUz. It will tell you the SPD for your RAM. After that just set them manually in the BIOS. If you are still having problems run MEMTEST86+ through a loop or two.


I know the timings. I'm not looking for my current timings..I just set them in the bios.. Why use cpu-z?

*edit*: This is what my SPD tab looks like:

Is it supposed to list the suggested timings and whatnot there?

I'm curious as to if the suggested timings of 9/9/9/[email protected] are just this kit's maximum, or if that's the recommended operating speed.
I'm wondering if I should be using the suggested 9/9/9/27 @ 1.65v -- or if I should tone it down and go with say 9/9/9/24 or the default settings (11/11/11/24) @ 1.50v
Sorry if that wasn't clear in my post.

Also wondering if I should use the multiplier to oc my cpu, or use a combination of multi and clock speed.. in which case, I would probably have to change my ht link, and my dram timings and voltage.. I do have some knowledge of how to do it (http://www.overclock.net/t/366989/official-asus-m2n-sli-and-m2n32-sli-club/9690).. Just new to am3+ and Gigabyte.

Thanks for any help you guys can offer.


----------



## vonss

I said is kinda crap that you need so much volts for that speed and latencies, but if you got no other choice, do it. But unless you are OC'ing your CPU and your CPU-NB, would make little difference if you run them @ 1333MHz 7-7-7 1.5V.

To avoid hassles, you gotta set the ACHI, and use the SATA ports 1-4, the 5-6 are for your like DVD-RW AND once is set that, you gotta make a clean install of Windows. Even though there is some "tweaks" to use Windows after you enable ACHI, they don't work as intended.
First solve all your other issues before even attention to CPU, specially make sure your RAM is stable.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFleck*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> You can't change drivers after you've installed Windows easily. There are ways, though, if you Google, I've done it before. Matter of fact, here. LOL http://www.overclock.net/t/1227636/how-to-change-sata-modes-after-windows-7-installation
> 
> 
> 
> I just got this mobo, and I have nothing installed.. so reinstalling windows is not a problem.. I've done it like 5 times already since yesterday. That doesn't really have anything to do with my problem. Maybe try reading it again?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> If you need the timings of your RAM use CPUz. It will tell you the SPD for your RAM. After that just set them manually in the BIOS. If you are still having problems run MEMTEST86+ through a loop or two.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I know the timings. I'm not looking for my current timings..I just set them in the bios.. Why use cpu-z?
> 
> *edit*: This is what my SPD tab looks like:
> 
> Is it supposed to list the suggested timings and whatnot there?
> 
> I'm curious as to if the suggested timings of 9/9/9/[email protected] are just this kit's maximum, or if that's the recommended operating speed.
> I'm wondering if I should be using the suggested 9/9/9/27 @ 1.65v -- or if I should tone it down and go with say 9/9/9/24 or the default settings (11/11/11/24) @ 1.50v
> Sorry if that wasn't clear in my post.
> 
> Also wondering if I should use the multiplier to oc my cpu, or use a combination of multi and clock speed.. in which case, I would probably have to change my ht link, and my dram timings and voltage.. I do have some knowledge of how to do it (http://www.overclock.net/t/366989/official-asus-m2n-sli-and-m2n32-sli-club/9690).. Just new to am3+ and Gigabyte.
> 
> Thanks for any help you guys can offer.
Click to expand...

To answer the question about your kits speed. The speed that the kit is sold as is the maximum 'rated' and tested speed. In other words the speed that they guarantee it to operate at. There is most likey another 100-300Mhz of headroom.


----------



## vonss

On CPU-Z with this MoBo's, the RAM sticks shot on slot 3 and 4.


----------



## NFleck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I said is kinda crap that you need so much volts for that speed and latencies, but if you got no other choice, do it. But unless you are OC'ing your CPU and your CPU-NB, would make little difference if you run them @ 1333MHz 7-7-7 1.5V.
> 
> To avoid hassles, you gotta set the ACHI, and use the SATA ports 1-4, the 5-6 are for your like DVD-RW AND once is set that, you gotta make a clean install of Windows. Even though there is some "tweaks" to use Windows after you enable ACHI, they don't work as intended.
> First solve all your other issues before even attention to CPU, specially make sure your RAM is stable.


Isn't anyone reading my post.. Please click here. Lol. I Did do a fresh install after setting ahci.. I'm getting nothing but problems.. Now won't even detect the 80gb slave drive. Just cleared cmos and going to start over..
Are you saying to put my 320 and 80 on SATA0 and SATA1 with port 0-3 set ahci. Then put my dvdrw on SATA4 and leave it default ide?
Or should I set "sata port 4/5 type" to "as sata type" and just use ahci for all sata ports.. Otherwise what's the point of putting the SATA optical drive on port 4 if they're all ahci anyways..
Do my questions not make sense guys...? I'm asking here because I'm assuming you guys have experience with the 990fxa.. And hopefully the ud7 rev. 1.1
No one has experienced problems installing windows 7 ultimate x64 on a sata drove using ahci with this board? Should I even bother with ahci if I don't have an ssd? Please help


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFleck*
> 
> Isn't anyone reading my post.. Please click here. Lol. I Did do a fresh install after setting ahci.. I'm getting nothing but problems.. Now won't even detect the 80gb slave drive. Just cleared cmos and going to start over..
> Are you saying to put my 320 and 80 on SATA0 and SATA1 with port 0-3 set ahci. Then put my dvdrw on SATA4 and leave it default ide?
> Or should I set "sata port 4/5 type" to "as sata type" and just use ahci for all sata ports.. Otherwise what's the point of putting the SATA optical drive on port 4 if they're all ahci anyways..
> Do my questions not make sense guys...? I'm asking here because I'm assuming you guys have experience with the 990fxa.. And hopefully the ud7 rev. 1.1
> No one has experienced problems installing windows 7 ultimate x64 on a sata drove using ahci with this board? Should I even bother with ahci if I don't have an ssd? Please help


Try a diferent version of Windows, maybe?
My SATA 1-4 are on AHCI, my SATA 5-6 are on IDE, otherwise my DVD-RW is not able to boot from CD's and so forth.
I have my SSD on SATA 1, my HDD's in SATA 2 and 3 and my DVD-RW in SATA 5.
If your HDD's are new ones, as in if they support AHCI, you should see a (albeit small) performance increase. There is no reason why not do so if supported by your hardware.


----------



## Roadkill95

Happy new year peeps! Thank you all for helping me with all my mishaps.


----------



## billy66bare

How old are these HDD's? Maybe they need it to be in IDE mode. And, yes, he's saying put your DVD drive on port 5 or 6 and set them to IDE. Some DVD drives don't like AHCI.
If you select the box that is blue in CPUz and select dimm 3 or 4 you should find some timings.


----------



## Loosenut

been doing some searching and not really coming up with a satisfactory answer to my relatively small issue.

in my sig rig, until today i was running a 8GB kit of GSkill Sniper Series f3-12800cl9d (ddr3-1600) and on auto my ram speed was @ 1333 with timings of 11-11-11-30. so for the last year I've been running it @ 1600 9-9-9-24 via manual settings. well when I swapped my mobo out to the 1.1 rev, it came with a 8GB set of ripjaws x same speed, same timings. ( did this today as a friend was wanting to buy my Ripjaws and wanted to check them out in a system)

but when I dropped them in there on auto my ram speed was set to 1600 but timings were 11-11-11-30. set my timings to 9-9-9-24 but haven't tried the xmp profile on the ripjaws. on the rev 1.0 board, the snipers wouldnt allow boot and I would have to clear cmos.

there was also random spots @ idle or under load where everything would just "hang" for a sec then pass as if it never happened and the "hang" would show up in my cpu graph.

any idea on why this is?


----------



## Roadkill95

Bit of a noob question here, with phenoms which temperature reading should I keep below 63C? Core or Temp02?When I was testing out 3.75 ghz today, I went away for a few minutes and when I cam back Temp02 was at 69C so I panic shut down my PC.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Bit of a noob question here, with phenoms which temperature reading should I keep below 63C? Core or Temp02?When I was testing out 3.75 ghz today, I went away for a few minutes and when I cam back Temp02 was at 69C so I panic shut down my PC.


Hi Roadkill,
Well it's core, but even if the 69c had been your core temp, or 72, or 76c you do not need to panic. Going above the 62c for a bit is not going to cause a meltdown or wrck you CPU.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hi Roadkill,
> Well it's core, but even if the 69c had been your core temp, or 72, or 76c you do not need to panic. Going above the 62c for a bit is not going to cause a meltdown or wrck you CPU.


Haha thanks mate









Edit: I removed my front case fan and mounted it on the cooler, dropped vcore by .25 (1.4v). Temps seem to be much, much better this time round, Lets just hope it doesn't blue screen.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Bit of a noob question here, with phenoms which temperature reading should I keep below 63C? Core or Temp02?When I was testing out 3.75 ghz today, I went away for a few minutes and when I cam back Temp02 was at 69C so I panic shut down my PC.


The core temp (is the same sensor for all the cores), you were checking your Northbridge, that was @ 63c.
62C is the limit for the CPU, but keep it below 55C while OC'ing, if possible.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> The core temp (is the same sensor for all the cores), you were checking your Northbridge, that was @ 63c.
> 62C is the limit for the CPU, but keep it below 55C while OC'ing, if possible.


+1.. You want your actual core temps to stay below 62c max/55c when overclocking(for stability reasons)

TMPIN02 is the Motherboard NorthBridge Temp, Its safe up to the 75-80c mark(according to Gigabyte).

TMPIN00 is the CPU Socket temp, Ignore this one. Its utterly useless, This show's the temp of the socket, and often read's around 10c higher than the actual CPU core temps on AMD's.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> +1.. You want your actual core temps to stay below 62c max/55c when overclocking(for stability reasons)
> TMPIN02 is the Motherboard NorthBridge Temp, Its safe up to the 75-80c mark(according to Gigabyte).
> TMPIN00 is the CPU Socket temp, Ignore this one. Its utterly useless, This show's the temp of the socket, and often read's around 10c higher than the actual CPU core temps on AMD's.


Thanks. I did another run with P/P config on my Hyper 212 at 1.40v vcore, max core temp was 61°C which is a bit too hot for my tastes, but then again I'm never gonna get temps that high gaming. Vcore was at a constant 1.456v which is a substantial spike from the 1.40v, kinda dodgy considering that LLC is set at high. Anyway it BSOD'ed after about 12 hours of prime but I've been gaming on it since and I didn't run into any issues yet. I don't want to declare anything as stable just yet but everything seems to be running fine as of now.

Also, I got a massive FPS boost going from 3.5 to 3.75. My GPU load actually goes up to 99% for the first time and my min FPS has gone up significantly.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Thanks. I did another run with P/P config on my Hyper 212 at 1.40v vcore, max core temp was 61°C which is a bit too hot for my tastes, but then again I'm never gonna get temps that high gaming. Vcore was at a constant 1.456v which is a substantial spike from the 1.40v, kinda dodgy considering that LLC is set at high. Anyway it BSOD'ed after about 12 hours of prime but I've been gaming on it since and I didn't run into any issues yet. I don't want to declare anything as stable just yet but everything seems to be running fine as of now.
> Also, I got a massive FPS boost going from 3.5 to 3.75. My GPU load actually goes up to 99% for the first time and my min FPS has gone up significantly.


That's great! I'm betting that your high temps are what's causing your 12 hour BSOD. Have you tried dropping LLC down a notch?


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> That's great! I'm betting that your high temps are what's causing your 12 hour BSOD. Have you tried dropping LLC down a notch?


Thanks









I haven't just yet, I'm going to keep these settings for a while and see if it crashes/BSODs etc. and if see if I could call this "stable". If it is, I'll try to take LLC down a notch and see what happens.

Again, thank you guys, for helping me. Earlier on I couldn't even boot at 3.5 ghz


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't just yet, I'm going to keep these settings for a while and see if it crashes/BSODs etc. and if see if I could call this "stable". If it is, I'll try to take LLC down a notch and see what happens.
> Again, thank you guys, for helping me. Earlier on I couldn't even boot at 3.5 ghz


What is your setting of LLC? I recommend you only use High or Ultra High?


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> What is your setting of LLC? I recommend you only use High or Ultra High?


it's at high..


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> it's at high..


too much LLC can cause V-Boost.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> too much LLC can cause V-Boost.


Ahh ok, I was under the impression that high is quite normal.

Here's the validation BTW. Gamed pretty much the whole day today ( lol) no problems at all. NB and HT are both running at ~2200mhz.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2637824


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Ahh ok, I was under the impression that high is quite normal.
> Here's the validation BTW. Gamed pretty much the whole day today ( lol) no problems at all. NB and HT are both running at ~2200mhz.
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2637824


I didn't mean to say that 'you' have too much LLC, Only adding that LLC can overcompensate for V Droop causing V Boost. Just like everything with overclocking you have to fiddle with it lol. Nice job on the validation!


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I didn't mean to say that 'you' have too much LLC, Only adding that LLC can overcompensate for V Droop causing V Boost. Just like everything with overclocking you have to fiddle with it lol. Nice job on the validation!


Ahh ok lol. I could've repped you on all these posts but I didn't because then it'd be unfair to others.I just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate all the help you've given to me.

And thank you


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Ahh ok lol. I could've repped you on all these posts but I didn't because then it'd be unfair to others.I just wanted to let you know that I really appreciate all the help you've given to me.
> And thank you


Don't worry about it, Not here for rep... I have plenty anyway


----------



## EyeCU247

New Here.
Trying to absorb some of your guys knowledge and the best (safest) way to oc if I decide to do so.
I really don't see a point on my setup right now, other than seeing how far I can take it.

First I keeping going back and fourth and buying into water just yet. I was thinking of getting a stand alone water cooler just for the CPU, and decided if I go water, I should go all out and water cool everything. Hence my current Air CPU cooler.

I have read back a ways in the forum and saw someone calling BS on Air cooling and getting an 8350 to OC to 4.6 Ghz.
With my current Air Cooler, I can't really see that not being possible (with some guidance) if my only concern is CPU temp getting too high.
But my one question before I stick to that statement, how hot can I safely run a 8350?
I currently have a hard time getting my CPU temp to 50c at full load at stock settings. (idle temps have bounced from 17c to31c w/an avg of 19c over the last 10 min.) Ambient/Room temp is around 70f to 75f.

I digress... I have been having a hard time finding AMD's safe range for this CPU, so I would first like to start with that knowledge and go from there.

Thanks!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> New Here.
> Trying to absorb some of your guys knowledge and the best (safest) way to oc if I decide to do so.
> I really don't see a point on my setup right now, other than seeing how far I can take it.
> First I keeping going back and fourth and buying into water just yet. I was thinking of getting a stand alone water cooler just for the CPU, and decided if I go water, I should go all out and water cool everything. Hence my current Air CPU cooler.
> I have read back a ways in the forum and saw someone calling BS on Air cooling and getting an 8350 to OC to 4.6 Ghz.
> With my current Air Cooler, I can't really see that not being possible (with some guidance) if my only concern is CPU temp getting too high.
> But my one question before I stick to that statement, how hot can I safely run a 8350?
> I currently have a hard time getting my CPU temp to 50c at full load at stock settings. (idle temps have bounced from 17c to31c w/an avg of 19c over the last 10 min.) Ambient/Room temp is around 70f to 75f.
> I digress... I have been having a hard time finding AMD's safe range for this CPU, so I would first like to start with that knowledge and go from there.
> Thanks!


I cannot help you much with the BD chips, I'm still fiddling and learning about them.

I can tell you that CLC (Closed Loop Cooler's) are a waste of time unless space is at a premium. high end air is sooo much better than a CLC.

If you go water try a RASA kit to get you started.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> New Here.
> Trying to absorb some of your guys knowledge and the best (safest) way to oc if I decide to do so.
> I really don't see a point on my setup right now, other than seeing how far I can take it.
> First I keeping going back and fourth and buying into water just yet. I was thinking of getting a stand alone water cooler just for the CPU, and decided if I go water, I should go all out and water cool everything. Hence my current Air CPU cooler.
> I have read back a ways in the forum and saw someone calling BS on Air cooling and getting an 8350 to OC to 4.6 Ghz.
> With my current Air Cooler, I can't really see that not being possible (with some guidance) if my only concern is CPU temp getting too high.
> But my one question before I stick to that statement, how hot can I safely run a 8350?
> I currently have a hard time getting my CPU temp to 50c at full load at stock settings. (idle temps have bounced from 17c to31c w/an avg of 19c over the last 10 min.) Ambient/Room temp is around 70f to 75f.
> I digress... I have been having a hard time finding AMD's safe range for this CPU, so I would first like to start with that knowledge and go from there.
> Thanks!


I can't remember the exact value, but the 83xx series was not the usual 62C, I THINK it was 83C, but don't quote me on that.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I can't remember the exact value, but the 83xx series was not the usual 62C, I THINK it was 83C, but don't quote me on that.


That is a lot hotter then I would have expected... reminds me of my old Barton core.... or was it the Athlon 1200 I had? Long time ago. Don't remember... just know at the time AMD told you on their web site and it was easy to find.

If it really is 83c what about the other temps... what is it safe to run those components at? If my CPU runs that hot I fear for the other parts too.
Is temp my only concern when OCing?


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> That is a lot hotter then I would have expected... reminds me of my old Barton core.... or was it the Athlon 1200 I had? Long time ago. Don't remember... just know at the time AMD told you on their web site and it was easy to find.
> If it really is 83c what about the other temps... what is it safe to run those components at? If my CPU runs that hot I fear for the other parts too.
> Is temp my only concern when OCing?


It appears I was wrong, the map safe temp is 70C.

Source: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/fx-8350-vishera-review,review-32550-2.html


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> It appears I was wrong, the map safe temp is 70C.
> Source: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/fx-8350-vishera-review,review-32550-2.html


Thanks for the link. Makes good reading over lunch.
My goal is to keep my 8350 <= 60c and still get it to 4.6 ghz on air. How bad do I need to worry about the other components on the MB (temp)?

On another note, how do I run my 1866 ram on this MB?
I tried setting it manually with the ram in single channel and still get OC cmos errors at boot.
Memory tests say RAM is fine. And I have tried ram in my UD5 MB and the UD3 I returned.

Thanks for your help!


----------



## Xara

Hello, newbie with an issue here.

So the issue is that I tried to update the BIOS for my board (GA-970A-D3), and being the silly uninformed idiot that I am, tried doing it in the @BIOS application (yes... I probably shouldn't have).

And now the BIOS seems to not want to load my OS anymore. I've actually tried reverting back to the original (F6) via Q-flash after learning how to use it, but no good. I'm actually not entirely sure what the problem is, so here I am. Is there anyone here who can help with BIOS?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

First of all welcome to OCN







.
Please create a thread for that issue or post in the thread for your board http://www.overclock.net/t/1048912/official-gigabyte-ga-990xa-970a-series-owners-club-help-thread-fx-8350-support-added/0_100

This thread is only for GA-900FXA boards.


----------



## Xara

Oh, I see. Thanks! Sorry to have to bother you.


----------



## Pudfark

Howdy All,
I'm very new here, though have lurked for the the last several days.
I have gone as far back, here, reading the posts from November to now.

My current system is:
AMD 955 BE Oc'd to 3.6 by multiplier only no volt increase
Motherboard GA 990FXA UD3 Revision 1.1 F9 Bios (all chipsets updated to current)
2X4 gig DDR3 @1600
CM 520 Heatsink Fan
EVGA 570 HD 2.5 gig Vram
Antec Lanboy Case
950 watt PSU "Silver Rated"
Win 7 64 Pro OEM
Intel 120g SSD boot drive
WD 1Tbyte Caviar Black

The following parts to be delivered this Monday and to be substituted for the parts above.
AMD 8350 Vishera
Corsair H100i
G.SKILL Sniper Gaming Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GSR

My intention, with guidance/advice, from the helpful folks here?
Is to overclock the 8350 to 4.6 or a dab better..maybe 4.8?
Stability and heat being my concerns...I'm from Texas









Before, I make the swap? It's my understanding?
I need to reset all the bios settings to default?
"Plug" in the new stuff and turn system on and go from there?
Or is there something, I'm over looking?

Any advice/help would be much appreciated. Thank You


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xara*
> 
> Hello, newbie with an issue here.
> So the issue is that I tried to update the BIOS for my board (GA-970A-D3), and being the silly uninformed idiot that I am, tried doing it in the @BIOS application (yes... I probably shouldn't have).
> And now the BIOS seems to not want to load my OS anymore. I've actually tried reverting back to the original (F6) via Q-flash after learning how to use it, but no good. I'm actually not entirely sure what the problem is, so here I am. Is there anyone here who can help with BIOS?


Probably it changed the order of your boot drivers, for whatever reason.
If you don't know how to configure your BIOS, as soon as you turn on your PC start spamming F12, which will allow you to select what device you want to boot from; select the correct HDD/SSD there and it should work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Thanks for the link. Makes good reading over lunch.
> My goal is to keep my 8350 <= 60c and still get it to 4.6 ghz on air. How bad do I need to worry about the other components on the MB (temp)?
> On another note, how do I run my 1866 ram on this MB?
> I tried setting it manually with the ram in single channel and still get OC cmos errors at boot.
> Memory tests say RAM is fine. And I have tried ram in my UD5 MB and the UD3 I returned.
> Thanks for your help!


It depends on your CPU Cooler and your case and fans, but mostly your ambient temp.
Northbridge temp, well, as long as you stay below 70C (IMHO) is fine. Changing the extremely crappy TIM it comes with helps quite a bit too.
For the RAM, use the E.O.C.P. (XMP) if you ram supports it and select the 1866.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> It depends on your CPU Cooler and your case and fans, but mostly your ambient temp.
> Northbridge temp, well, as long as you stay below 70C (IMHO) is fine. Changing the extremely crappy TIM it comes with helps quite a bit too.
> For the RAM, use the E.O.C.P. (XMP) if you ram supports it and select the 1866.


Details on my setup are in my signature. EOCP? Easy over clocking tool in bios? I have tried that with no luck.
I use AT5 on my CPU. Are you saying I should use that on south/north bridge and the row above cpu?
And/on ram heatsinks? My case doesn't have any fans (only one is on cpu).... see my pic... it's my pc right after I installed the UD5 MB. I should take a better pic or swap it out for my avitar. My room is around 21c to 24c. 70f to 75f - 32 / 1.8? It's been a while since I cared about that formula....

I forgot to mention my ram is only running single channel as I read that is the only way to run it as 1833

I am in front of my PC right now and willing to try stuff.
Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> It depends on your CPU Cooler and your case and fans, but mostly your ambient temp.
> Northbridge temp, well, as long as you stay below 70C (IMHO) is fine. Changing the extremely crappy TIM it comes with helps quite a bit too.
> For the RAM, use the E.O.C.P. (XMP) if you ram supports it and select the 1866.


alright I am confused. When set to Auto...
My bios says
CPU Clock 4000Mhz
CPU NB is 2200Mhz
CPB ratio is 4200Mhz
HT Link Freq 2600Mhz
Memory Clock is 1333Mhz

i thought i read HT link is supposed to be less then CPU NB?
If that's true something has got to be really wrong here and maybe causing my ram problem?

My RAM is corsair vengeance 1833 c9 and I can't get it to run as such... even after turning EOCP on to ddr1833 and setting system volt to auto or Manu and leaving default settings.
I forgot to mention my ram is only running single channel as I read that is the only way to run it as 1833

I am in front of my PC right now and willing to try stuff.
Thanks!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> alright I am confused. When set to Auto...
> My bios says
> CPU Clock 4000Mhz
> CPU NB is 2200Mhz
> CPB ratio is 4200Mhz
> HT Link Freq 2600Mhz
> Memory Clock is 1333Mhz
> i thought i read HT link is supposed to be less then CPU NB?
> If that's true something has got to be really wrong here and maybe causing my ram problem?
> My RAM is corsair vengeance 1833 c9 and I can't get it to run as such... even after turning EOCP on to ddr1833 and setting system volt to auto or Manu and leaving default settings.
> I forgot to mention my ram is only running single channel as I read that is the only way to run it as 1833
> I am in front of my PC right now and willing to try stuff.
> Thanks!


disable c1e in bios.

You can use EOCP for your ram, however i would just manually set the timings on their spec sheet. That will get you going with higher speed ram. The processor can handle 1866 in dual channel mode no problem. Your hyper transport is fine, stock is 2600.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> disable c1e in bios.
> You can use EOCP for your ram, however i would just manually set the timings on their spec sheet. That will get you going with higher speed ram. The processor can handle 1866 in dual channel mode no problem. Your hyper transport is fine, stock is 2600.


Disabling C1E didn't help.
Gigabyte said....
Dear customer,

Please try following BIOS settings under :M.I.T.
DRAM E.O.C.P => Profile ( set profile match to spec of memory 1600, 1866, 2000, 2133 ).
DRAM Configuration =>
rfc0 for DIMM1, DIMM3 => 160ns or match to spec of memory .
rtc1 for DIMM2, DIMM4 => 160ns or match to spec of memory.

Best regards,

Gigabyte technical support team.

running dual channel again...
..... and if everything is set to default and i only do what he said, my ht drops to 2200, higher volts get set to ram, timings are higher and 160ns seems to put it over the top as my computer will not boot with 3 longs beeps. memory error...
I am stumped.
The last time i had memory issues was on a 939 board and i hard set the ram and everything was fine... never had this much trouble, but there are also 100s more settings now then i had back then and i have been out of this "performance setting" loop since then....

ran SFC and Scan Disk and 2 reboots later...
I am not sure what that was about, but Windows is happy again...


It this normal? the JEDEC #s are different... and one of the two cards has JEDEC #4 and it is a at crazy high speed. XMP mode on both is the same though...



I finally figured out the right combination of settings to get my ram to run at 1866 and it caused my cpu to run around 5 or 6c hotter under load.
Also my fsb is running at 200 now as it always should have. It was running at 201 mhz. So this seemed to resolve a few odd things...
Now as my fsb is set right . Can see that when the cores go into turbo.mode, they only go to 4100 and not 4200mhz. The multiplier is changing to 20.5. Shouldnt this be going to 21?

Thanks for your help and getting me this far!

What is the difference between Piledriver and Vishera? One is the core type and other the whole processor?

Mod edit: Please use the edit button instead of multi posting.


----------



## Roadkill95

Right, update time.

I can safely say that this OC is stable, I've been running my PC 24/7 for the past few days and it ran without a single hitch.

Also, I did some digging around and I found this ; http://www.overclock.net/t/1134229/amd-cpus-max-temps

According to that, my CPU has max temp of 71°C, not the usual 62°C that all phenoms are rated at. So I have even more headroom to overclock







I love this chip.


----------



## NFleck

Hey guys. I uploaded my highest (multi) OC with my new 990FXA-UD7 (Rev 1.1)
Still in the process of learning advanced OC'ing with a new am3+ Mobo (coming up from an ASUS M2N32-SLI Deluxe), and once I find my best OC (bench-wise), I'll update to that.
I must say, I absolutely LOVE my Gigabyte board.. Very happy I chose to go with Gigabyte this time around..









Also, would anyone bother buying an 8350 to replace my 955BE, or should I wait?


----------



## Pudfark

Howdy NFleck

I have the 990FXA UD3 Rev 1.1 board currently with a 955 on it and oc'd to 3.6 , multiplier only, no volt increase.
Tomorrow, my 8350 replacement arrives...along with a H100i.
Give me a couple of days and I'll post what I think about the swap.
Smarter folks than me would probably tell you that it depends on what you're going to do with it.
Video encoding and the like is supposed to make a "big" difference. Some say the "gaming" aspect
is not that much of an increase, though, arguably worthwhile. I'll let you know. I'd say in my limited experience
if you are running a significant O.C. on your 955, 4+ ghz and no encoding....it's a coin toss.

Oops, just noticed yer sig wow 4.2
Yup, a coin toss....


----------



## NFleck

Can get to 4.0 (20x200) on [Normal] (for me, my board sets normal as 1.400v) .. 4.5 requires a large bump.. Can run stock at [-0.100] (1.300v)
I havn't changed NB (not cpu-nb, just "nb") voltage at all from [Normal] (1.10v), nor the cpu PLL, or the other PLL value.. And pretty much use the stock JEDEC ram voltages of 1.50v for x5.33/x6.66 ram freq's. and 1.65v for x8 (1600)+ freq's.
Working on my cache&mem benchmarks, and getting the most out of 4ghz cpu/2.8ghz nb/1600+ ram by fiddling with those freq's/timings.

I pretty much just game, -- and basic photoshop/web design -- and I could run skyrim, fallout: new vegas, minecraft, bf3, diablo 3, etc. all on medium-to-high settings (although my monitor is 1440x900 max..







), with my m2n32-sli deluxe and ddr2 ram.. now, i don't even have to check and i know it'll be fine for my taste.. (ultra-high isnt important to me.. but the higher the better obv.) For that reason, I don't think the 83xx would be worth getting.. But, maybe in several months when it goes down in price a bit more it may..

LMK though,


----------



## Pudfark

@NFleck
I ain't forgot about ya. 8350 and H100i installed and running.
However, I can't find a way to monitor CPU temps...Corsair Link and
the several other "Temp Programs" I have, all report my CPU at 12C,
which, I know, ain't right. Though, CL reports Rad Temp at 29C.

Anyway, soon as I get it figured out, I'll throw my findings in yer direction.


----------



## Ultracarpet

G'day gents. I have my 8350 @ 4.8 ghz stable on a 990fx ud3 rev 1.1 with vcore set at 1.475 with LLC on regular (voltage under load 1.488-1.552). In order to be stable i had to switch from f9 to f7 bios... I see everyone else using it successfully but for me f9 was wack... Apart from failing prime tests instantly, when i would make changes to bios settings, aero wouldn't work in windows and would require a restart that didn't involve me entering the bios. I also was having problems with the LLC which was over-volting my vcore and causing large voltage swings no matter what setting i chose (almost 0.1 difference between min and max under load)... the extreme setting, however; decided to have vdroop lol. I flashed the f9 bios twice thinking it would fix some of the issues but to no avail. Flashing to f7 DID get me stable in prime for 10+ hours... but it to, has it's issues. Sometimes when i set a vcore in the bios, it will have changed when i get into windows and i have to restart the computer and get into the bios to save my vcore again. Also i still have the large voltage swings. I have all power saving and turbo features disabled, and only the cpu is overclocked right now... everything else has been manually set but all at stock voltages, multipliers, etc... I think 5ghz is possible with this chip but the voltage swings are making this pretty difficult to achieve. Any advice is much appreciated.

It's my own darn vault that i bought the UD3, and if it's the reason i can't go any higher, then i guess:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1NAGhiVqdg


----------



## Roadkill95

Ultracarpet unfortunately I don't have any advice but I'm facing the same problem. With LLC at high i'm getting ridiculous voltage swings. For example, vcore is set to 1.4 but after a few hours of prime it'll sit at about 1.48, which as you said is almost a 0.1 difference.


----------



## Pudfark

@Ultracarpet

I'm a noob at overclocking.
We have similar systems, to include CPU, MB and Rev 1.1
I currently have F9 bios.
It would truly make a difference to me, if you could post some screen shots of your bios settings.
It's a lot to ask of you, I do believe others would benefit as well.
I would change to F7, if in your opinion, it would be better/easier?

Any thing further, that you can throw this way, would be very much appreciated.
Thank You.


----------



## opty165

Hey guys,

I've just recently become an owner of a rev 1.0 board. I didn't know it when I purchased it that it didn't have LLC. Will this seriously effect my overclocking ability's on my 8350? I've read some posts about the voltage being all over the place without LLC. Are there any tricks or tips for this particular board? Or is it just constant fine tuning. If there's any rev 1.0 owners that have achieved decent overclocks, I'd love to hear how you did it!


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> @Ultracarpet
> 
> I'm a noob at overclocking.
> We have similar systems, to include CPU, MB and Rev 1.1
> I currently have F9 bios.
> It would truly make a difference to me, if you could post some screen shots of your bios settings.
> It's a lot to ask of you, I do believe others would benefit as well.
> I would change to F7, if in your opinion, it would be better/easier?
> 
> Any thing further, that you can throw this way, would be very much appreciated.
> Thank You.


I disabled C1E, C6, APM, CnQ, and core boost. Then changed the fsb, multi's, and voltages all to manual... but didn't overclock any of them. The only things i have changed are my vcore, set at 1.475 and my LLC set to regular... which results in an overvoltage and a min-max of 1.488 and 1.552 under load. My temps maxed at 52 c. That was my 14 hour prime run at 4.8 Ghz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *opty165*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I've just recently become an owner of a rev 1.0 board. I didn't know it when I purchased it that it didn't have LLC. Will this seriously effect my overclocking ability's on my 8350? I've read some posts about the voltage being all over the place without LLC. Are there any tricks or tips for this particular board? Or is it just constant fine tuning. If there's any rev 1.0 owners that have achieved decent overclocks, I'd love to hear how you did it!


My rev 1.1 WITH LLC is a roller coaster XD. If i were you i would just update to the latest bios, and jack the vcore up to like 1.5 (if your cooling can handle it) and turn prime on to see what the vdroop is like. I don't see why the 4.7-5.0 range wouldn't be attainable with that board though.... oh and be wary of the VRMS... They get HOT. I had to put a spot fan on them or i start getting throttling issues around 1.475v.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> I disabled C1E, C6, APM, CnQ, and core boost. Then changed the fsb, multi's, and voltages all to manual... but didn't overclock any of them. The only things i have changed are my vcore, set at 1.475 and my LLC set to regular... which results in an overvoltage and a min-max of 1.488 and 1.552 under load. My temps maxed at 52 c. That was my 14 hour prime run at 4.8 Ghz.
> My rev 1.1 WITH LLC is a roller coaster XD. If i were you i would just update to the latest bios, and jack the vcore up to like 1.5 (if your cooling can handle it) and turn prime on to see what the vdroop is like. I don't see why the 4.7-5.0 range wouldn't be attainable with that board though.... oh and be wary of the VRMS... They get HOT. I had to put a spot fan on them or i start getting throttling issues around 1.475v.


Although I do not have a FX CPU, you should not have to disable the cooling and power saving features of a processor to reach a good 24/7 overclock.

Take a look at my sig CPUz. I have all CnQ, C1E, etc enabled. I have steady power at full tilt and I'm 24/7.

It is a bit more work to find the sweet spot on the 1.0 boards yes. LLC just makes it easier for OC'ers. Let alone the ud3 does not have DrMOS that LLC was originally intended for. The Ud3's power is separated drivers and mosfets.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Although I do not have a FX CPU, you should not have to disable the cooling and power saving features of a processor to reach a good 24/7 overclock.
> 
> Take a look at my sig CPUz. I have all CnQ, C1E, etc enabled. I have steady power at full tilt and I'm 24/7.
> 
> It is a bit more work to find the sweet spot on the 1.0 boards yes. LLC just makes it easier for OC'ers. Let alone the ud3 does not have DrMOS that LLC was originally intended for. The Ud3's power is separated drivers and mosfets.


i intend to turn on the power saving options after i find my 24/7, i just sleep better at night with them off while finding my oc... I just don't understand why every LLC setting (no matter which bios) overvolts my cpu by at least 0.05v. Could it possibly be my power supply?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> i intend to turn on the power saving options after i find my 24/7, i just sleep better at night with them off while finding my oc... I just don't understand why every LLC setting (no matter which bios) overvolts my cpu by at least 0.05v. Could it possibly be my power supply?


Glad to hear it.

Every boards LLC is different. (No two boards are created equal) Your sounds like it has a more accurate Voltage Monitoring.

Disable LLC if need be. LLC is really only there to keep the Vcore from dropping from inrush current when a cpu goes from idle state to full load (worst case scenario)

For these brief moments the vcore can drop as current demand increases dramatically and while the VRM's are reacting to the demand. This can cause large instability. So they came up with LLC. LLC looks for the voltage drop and supplies added current while the VRM's catch up. Seems all good in theory...

It does work to a certain point. But as processors become smaller, they are also becoming more and more sensitive to OVER voltage. LLC adds voltage during needed "ramp up" situations but also cant react fast enough when demand drops. This causes voltage SPIKES that are more often not noticeable via monitoring software. This intern is causing a whole new problem for Overclockers. These Spikes with LLC is causing Instability in the OC field and most don't even realize it.

At higher overclocks of a chip, you are generally pushing the voltage to its higher limits. Where as LLC would have not been a problem at lower voltages, it is now causeing much higher voltage spikes at the new higher voltages used to obtain the overclock in question.

Moving forward further; when enabling C1E and CnQ power saving features, your asking a processor not only to lower its clock speed but also its voltage during idle situations. Pulling the processor out of idle is the tricky part. Your ramping clocks and voltage together all while putting a load on the processor as well. This is too quick for the VRM's to keep up with and is where LLC steps in to keep vdroop from killing the system.

there is good and bad and this long explanation I'm sure no one will read anyway.

So the short of it:

Use the least amount of LLC you can at higher OC's and voltages to maintain stability.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Glad to hear it.
> 
> Every boards LLC is different. (No two boards are created equal) Your sounds like it has a more accurate Voltage Monitoring.
> 
> Disable LLC if need be. LLC is really only there to keep the Vcore from dropping from inrush current when a cpu goes from idle state to full load (worst case scenario)
> 
> For these brief moments the vcore can drop as current demand increases dramatically and while the VRM's are reacting to the demand. This can cause large instability. So they came up with LLC. LLC looks for the voltage drop and supplies added current while the VRM's catch up. Seems all good in theory...
> 
> It does work to a certain point. But as processors become smaller, they are also becoming more and more sensitive to OVER voltage. LLC adds voltage during needed "ramp up" situations but also cant react fast enough when demand drops. This causes voltage SPIKES that are more often not noticeable via monitoring software. This intern is causing a whole new problem for Overclockers. These Spikes with LLC is causing Instability in the OC field and most don't even realize it.
> 
> At higher overclocks of a chip, you are generally pushing the voltage to its higher limits. Where as LLC would have not been a problem at lower voltages, it is now causeing much higher voltage spikes at the new higher voltages used to obtain the overclock in question.
> 
> Moving forward further; when enabling C1E and CnQ power saving features, your asking a processor not only to lower its clock speed but also its voltage during idle situations. Pulling the processor out of idle is the tricky part. Your ramping clocks and voltage together all while putting a load on the processor as well. This is too quick for the VRM's to keep up with and is where LLC steps in to keep vdroop from killing the system.
> 
> there is good and bad and this long explanation I'm sure no one will read anyway.
> 
> So the short of it:
> 
> *Use the least amount of LLC you can at higher OC's and voltages to maintain stability*.


QTF. A lot of people cause issue's setting LLC too high.

Man I feel lucky with my board, its a UD3 1.0 (no LLC). My voltage is pretty stable. I set it at 1.450v and get 1.440v.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Glad to hear it.
> 
> Every boards LLC is different. (No two boards are created equal) Your sounds like it has a more accurate Voltage Monitoring.
> 
> Disable LLC if need be. LLC is really only there to keep the Vcore from dropping from inrush current when a cpu goes from idle state to full load (worst case scenario)


I don't think i can disable LLC. My LLC settings are: Auto, Regular, Medium, High, Ultra High, Extreme.

starting from regular setting and working up the list results in the over voltage increasing a tiny bit but for the most part they all do the same thing. The extreme setting oddly enough, makes my idle voltage about -0.03 to -0.05v from what the vcore was set at, but then at load it only over volts about the same amount as the regular setting.

this has been the case with every bios version i have used.


----------



## Pudfark

@Ultracarpet

Many Thanks....I owe ya a cold beer or several.








Thanx also for including your insights.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> @Ultracarpet
> 
> Many Thanks....I owe ya a cold beer or several.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanx also for including your insights.


np, anytime


----------



## ebduncan

< revision 1.0 here as well

don't need LLC to achieve high overclocks. Voltage is set to 1.475 in bios under load its around 1.45-1.46. Small amount of Vdroop. This is with the [email protected] 4.945ghz. Piledriver is a bit more power efficient so vdroop shouldn't be as bad.

Settings on other things

muti x 23
FSB 215
Cpu Pill 2.525
Vcore 1.475
Cpu NB +.200 (forget the actual voltage off the top of my head)
NB Speed 2365 (11x muti)
Hyper Transport 2795 (13x muti)
everything else is at stock values.

Mem 2006mhz
9-9-9-27 @1.66 volts Unganged, dual channel.

Cool and Quiet on, C6 on, C1E off

Water cooled by a XSPC Raystorm RX240 Kit, with corsair sp120 in push pull. Full load temps are around 44c Idle temp 30c

My Cpu will do 5.2ghz at 1.6volts but vdroop at that voltage is horrible dropping all the way to 1.54 volts. Stable enough for a few benchmarks before ultimately crashing due to voltage swings. LLC is nice but its not needed unless you truly plan to push the limits of your chip. Below 1.5 volts standard mosfet and driver design works well with out terrible vdroop. Above 1.5 volts and things get dicey from my experience anyways.


----------



## Pudfark

@Ultracarpet









"I disabled C1E, C6, APM, CnQ, and core boost. Then changed the fsb, multi's, and voltages all to manual... but didn't overclock any of them. The only things i have changed are my vcore, set at 1.475 and my LLC set to regular... which results in an overvoltage and a min-max of 1.488 and 1.552 under load. My temps maxed at 52 c. That was my 14 hour prime run at 4.8 Ghz."

It worked Perfectly.









I read many, many postings from all over the web.
Some of them were over a thousand words on how to
overclock the Piledriver/Vishera Cpu. None of them
were stable and some didn't work at all.

You got the job done in 71 words.
Which I quoted above.

I'm 57 years old and I thought brevity and conciseness were gone forever.
I'm just blown away and extremely appreciative of your unselfish efforts and hard work.
I will be sharing this information with others and certainly crediting you for it.
Thank You


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> I don't think i can disable LLC. My LLC settings are: Auto, Regular, Medium, High, Ultra High, Extreme.
> 
> starting from regular setting and working up the list results in the over voltage increasing a tiny bit but for the most part they all do the same thing. The extreme setting oddly enough, makes my idle voltage about -0.03 to -0.05v from what the vcore was set at, but then at load it only over volts about the same amount as the regular setting.
> 
> this has been the case with every bios version i have used.


You can disable LLC by flashing an older bios, something like F3 IIRC. But then again F3 doesn't have VRM protection ( No throttling when VRMs get too hot) so I'd think twice before flashing it.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> @Ultracarpet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "I disabled C1E, C6, APM, CnQ, and core boost. Then changed the fsb, multi's, and voltages all to manual... but didn't overclock any of them. The only things i have changed are my vcore, set at 1.475 and my LLC set to regular... which results in an overvoltage and a min-max of 1.488 and 1.552 under load. My temps maxed at 52 c. That was my 14 hour prime run at 4.8 Ghz."
> 
> It worked Perfectly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I read many, many postings from all over the web.
> Some of them were over a thousand words on how to
> overclock the Piledriver/Vishera Cpu. None of them
> were stable and some didn't work at all.
> 
> You got the job done in 71 words.
> Which I quoted above.
> 
> I'm 57 years old and I thought brevity and conciseness were gone forever.
> I'm just blown away and extremely appreciative of your unselfish efforts and hard work.
> I will be sharing this information with others and certainly crediting you for it.
> Thank You


I am honored.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> You can disable LLC by flashing an older bios, something like F3 IIRC. But then again F3 doesn't have VRM protection ( No throttling when VRMs get too hot) so I'd think twice before flashing it.


Well, i have stopped throttling all the way up to 1.6v with a spot fan on the VRM's so this is intriguing me.

*edit*

Just tried it, and it still had LLC... i read the patch notes and apparently F3 was when LLC support was added, or something like that. I would go to F2 but i'm nervous that it won't support this processor, and i don't have an am3 on me.


----------



## philharmonik

Do any of you 990FX owners have a UD3 Rev 3.0, and where did you get it? I've been all over Amazon, Newegg, Tigerdirect, Ebay and many other sites and can't seem to find a Rev 3.0 board.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Do any of you 990FX owners have a UD3 Rev 3.0, and where did you get it? I've been all over Amazon, Newegg, Tigerdirect, Ebay and many other sites and can't seem to find a Rev 3.0 board.


try contacting gigabyte about their sell points.


----------



## paulwarden2505

They just tell you to look on their where to buy section which is no help at all i tried that for a rev 3.0 ud3 but none of their sellers actually have any in stock and cant get hold of them


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> They just tell you to look on their where to buy section which is no help at all i tried that for a rev 3.0 ud3 but none of their sellers actually have any in stock and cant get hold of them


they are going to clear out old stock before selling the new revision. Rev 3.0 is still rather new, it likely wont be on shelves or e-retailers for a bit longer.

Not like it matters to much the rev 3.0 boards have uefi bios, but the main thing you are going to want is rev 1.1 or higher for LLC. I mean if you like brand new beta untested bios then by all means shoot for the rev 3.0. I've literally have had nightmares about the different bios on the UD3. They are full of problems, most have been ironed out, but still have issues.


----------



## philharmonik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> they are going to clear out old stock before selling the new revision. Rev 3.0 is still rather new, it likely wont be on shelves or e-retailers for a bit longer.
> 
> Not like it matters to much the rev 3.0 boards have uefi bios, but the main thing you are going to want is rev 1.1 or higher for LLC. I mean if you like brand new beta untested bios then by all means shoot for the rev 3.0. I've literally have had nightmares about the different bios on the UD3. They are full of problems, most have been ironed out, but still have issues.


Thanks for the info! I will keep that in mind. Still looking around at different boards and I think its either going to be the UD3 and just roll the dice or get the ASRock 990FX Extreme 3 or 4.


----------



## sem115

Just got UD3 Rev 3 board from amzaon last week. Have it installed with 8350 and Samsung wonder ram


----------



## Cannon19932006

I have the 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.1 and i have a unknown pci device in windows, slot 5. Was wondering if it was something on the board and what it was.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cannon19932006*
> 
> I have the 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.1 and i have a unknown pci device in windows, slot 5. Was wondering if it was something on the board and what it was.


Look for its hardware id and search it on google. Also you can post it here.


----------



## Cannon19932006

PCI\VEN_1FC8&DEV_0BC0&SUBSYS_00000000&REV_00
PCI\VEN_1FC8&DEV_0BC0&SUBSYS_00000000
PCI\VEN_1FC8&DEV_0BC0&REV_00
PCI\VEN_1FC8&DEV_0BC0
PCI\VEN_1FC8&DEV_0BC0&CC_FF0000
PCI\VEN_1FC8&DEV_0BC0&CC_FF00

That's whats in hardware id's nothing came up on google. not really sure if this is what you wanted me to see.


----------



## MadGoat

Do you have the Etron USB 3.0 Driver installed?

Also the AMD chipset drivers?


----------



## Cannon19932006

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Do you have the Etron USB 3.0 Driver installed?
> 
> Also the AMD chipset drivers?


yes to both


----------



## Fordox

lan and audio? try unplugging all the usb ports and see if it is one of those.


----------



## ubR322

should i use my TMPIN1 or my fx 8350 temp "package" to monitor temps under load. i believe i go by tmpin1 but im not 100% sure...the board is 990fxa-ud3


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ubR322*
> 
> should i use my TMPIN1 or my fx 8350 temp "package" to monitor temps under load. i believe i go by tmpin1 but im not 100% sure...the board is 990fxa-ud3


No, that is socket temp. Socket temp will differ slightly from actual core temp. Try another program to see core temps. I highly suggest Open Hardware Monitor over Hardware Monitor.


----------



## Cannon19932006

I found out what the device was, it actually has nothing to do with the motherboard. It's a chip on my HIS 6970 that can be read about here.

http://hothardware.com/Reviews/Lucid-Hydra-200-MultiGPU-Performance-Revealed/
http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/his_radeon_6970_iceq_mix_review,3.html

And if i'm not a complete moron, it seems i can use ATI and Nvidia Graphics together to increase performance, which is a completely alien concept to me.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cannon19932006*
> 
> I found out what the device was, it actually has nothing to do with the motherboard. It's a chip on my HIS 6970 that can be read about here.
> 
> http://hothardware.com/Reviews/Lucid-Hydra-200-MultiGPU-Performance-Revealed/
> http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/his_radeon_6970_iceq_mix_review,3.html
> 
> And if i'm not a complete moron, it seems i can use ATI and Nvidia Graphics together to increase performance, which is a completely alien concept to me.


In theory you can, in practice it may prove to be more of a PITA than its worth. I could never get Hydra to work. I had the same problem adding an Nvidia PhysX card to my AMD GPU set up. Other's claim perfect performance.


----------



## pony-tail

Has anybody on here put a VRM cooler on a 990FXA-D3 board ?
I am building a machine for a family member and they have handed me that board with an FX 8350 cpu and I am a little concerned about the VRMs going the distance ( I have had a couple of bad experiences with MSI boards recently ) I was looking into using a "Enzotech MST-88 Full Copper MOSFET Cooler" that I found on fleabay that appears to have the right dimensions . Anyone at all done this on this board ?


----------



## EyeCU247

I have eSATA external dock for two drives. To use both drives at once it requires the use of an eSATA card that is a port multiplier. Does the ud5 eSATA ports,supports this? I thought i read a review on this board that said it did but i am not able to make it work. Ports are in AHCI? mode... not raid or ide.
I would prefer to not buy a 1x card if I don't have to.
Thermaltake blaX duet. Needed it as a work emergency and only one local store had in stock.
Also has usb, but 2.0 is too slow

Thanks


----------



## MadGoat

yes I believe a SATA port will allow port multiplication as long as AHCI is enabled. (eSATA or SATA)

Furthermore I believe AMD southbridges has supported FIS Switching since the 8xx chipsets...

You should be good, Set your main SATA connection to AHCI, then set your "eSATA Type" to "Same as Sata" ... this will enable AHCI. \

(Note that if you have your OS installed and you havnt had AHCI enabled on your internal SATA, you will need to enable AHCI in windows first before switching on the option in the bios. Otherwise you wont be able to boot back into your OS)


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> yes I believe a SATA port will allow port multiplication as long as AHCI is enabled. (eSATA or SATA)


That is what I was expecting but it would only see one drive. If I unplugged the working drive, the other started working right away.

I will try this again tonight.

Thanks


----------



## Loosenut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> yes I believe a SATA port will allow port multiplication as long as AHCI is enabled. (eSATA or SATA)
> 
> Furthermore I believe AMD southbridges has supported FIS Switching since the 8xx chipsets...
> 
> You should be good, Set your main SATA connection to AHCI, then set your "eSATA Type" to "Same as Sata" ... this will enable AHCI. \
> 
> (Note that if you have your OS installed and you havnt had AHCI enabled on your internal SATA, you will need to enable AHCI in windows first before switching on the option in the bios. Otherwise you wont be able to boot back into your OS)


some optical drives do not support 'as sata type' or ahci so mind where you connect it. I have my ssd on port 0, port 1 is my 1TB WD profile drive with AHCI enabled and my LG drive on port 4 but port 4/5 set to ide mode then on the Marvell controller, I have it set to AHCI where my 1TB WD backup drive reside. I used to have 2 ssd's in raid 0 on port 0/1 and 4/5 set to AHCI for my 2TB drives and my LG optical on the Marvell controller but my LG drive kept disappearing in windows.

hope this helps, on F11 bios rev 1.1


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> That is what I was expecting but it would only see one drive. If I unplugged the working drive, the other started working right away. I will try this again tonight. Thanks


i see,

i wonder if the driver windows is using for the external Sata ports has something to do with it. Maybe make sure the Amd Sata AHCI driver is being used for the eSata ports? Dont know is the MS driver has port multiplier capability...

i'd try it myself however the external esata device i have has a 2.5 and a 3.5 slot and i dont have an extra 2.5sata drive to test it with... sorry


----------



## MadGoat

one more thing,

you might want to try setting you "esata cntrl mode" to "raid". This Might allow the raid bios to configure both drives to be presented to the OS. I'm sure windows will have to install a raid driver for the ports but it might work.

otherwise I would be interested if manually installing the AMD sata AHCI driver for the Esata ports would work...



I have 2 AHCI controllers showing, one of which I believe is in charge of the eSata ports. Im currently not using the AMD AHCI driver even for my main controller as windows8 throws a fit with the driver. (AMD needs to fix it up for windows 8).

However even when installing the AMD sata driver, It only installs to the Main (internal ports) controller. Not the eSata controller aswell. So Im curious if (with eSata set to AHCI) you can manually install the AMD AHCI driver to both Controllers, and in hopes enabling windows to utilize port multiplication. ? Just a thought.

Otherwise I'm curious if setting eSata to RAID would do the trick...

Let us know, this could be valuable to many people in the future.


----------



## EyeCU247

I will not be home for another 5 or 6 hours but I can already tell you how my bios is setup
Sata 0−5 raid
2x 240gb ssd raid 0
2x 500gb hdd raid 0
1x 60gb ssd for pagefile
1 free sata

gSATA AHCI
2x DVD burnerss

eSATA AHCI
1 connected to blaX duet dock
1 free

First thing I will try is setting eSATA to RAID in the BIOS
thanks for all the advice!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> I will not be home for another 5 or 6 hours but I can already tell you how my bios is setup
> Sata 0−5 raid
> 2x 240gb ssd raid 0
> 2x 500gb hdd raid 0
> 1x 60gb ssd for pagefile
> 1 free sata
> 
> gSATA AHCI
> 2x DVD burnerss
> 
> eSATA AHCI
> 1 connected to blaX duet dock
> 1 free
> 
> First thing I will try is setting eSATA to RAID in the BIOS
> thanks for all the advice!


Well, you are a busy SATA user!

I look forward to your findings.


----------



## MadGoat

I think I figured it out!

(sorry, I know... I'm a little obsessed over this. But I have had situations myself that I've wanted to know this info)

It seems the eSata ports on our boards are controlled via a Marvell 9172 controller. (I swore I knew this, must have slipped my mind).

So, it seems keeping the eSata mode set to AHCI is correct and will support port multiplication as well as hot swapping.

HOWEVER! Windows uses the default AHCI driver for the Marvell controller which uses the controller as a "internal" sata connection.

Installing the Marvell driver seems to solve all that ails us.

Download it HERE

I installed the driver and my external setup is now correctly recognized as a removable device and is instantly detected, where as before I had to power cycle the unit to mount the device.

It fixed my problems, I hope it adds port multiplication to the equation as well.










BOOM:


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pony-tail*
> 
> Has anybody on here put a VRM cooler on a 990FXA-D3 board ?
> I am building a machine for a family member and they have handed me that board with an FX 8350 cpu and I am a little concerned about the VRMs going the distance ( I have had a couple of bad experiences with MSI boards recently ) I was looking into using a "Enzotech MST-88 Full Copper MOSFET Cooler" that I found on fleabay that appears to have the right dimensions . Anyone at all done this on this board ?


I am running the ud3 with an 8350 and I don't think you need anything aftermarket on the vrms. You can't really blow them up considering throttling protection was added to the bios for them. I look at it like this, if you aren't overclocking or plan on using the original hsf then you won't be able to run enough voltage to overheat the ud3's vrms as your 8350's temp will be at it's ceiling. If you do get an aftermarket cooler, then you can take the amd fan from the old hsf and use it as a spot fan. I think though, as long as the case has good airflow it shouldn't be a problem. I have seen many running this setup without spot fans at decently high voltages and I have seen many using spot fans, but I don't think anyone has had to go aftermarket on them.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I think I figured it out!
> 
> (sorry, I know... I'm a little obsessed over this. But I have had situations myself that I've wanted to know this info)
> 
> It seems the eSata ports on our boards are controlled via a Marvell 9172 controller. (I swore I knew this, must have slipped my mind).
> 
> So, it seems keeping the eSata mode set to AHCI is correct and will support port multiplication as well as hot swapping.
> 
> HOWEVER! Windows uses the default AHCI driver for the Marvell controller which uses the controller as a "internal" sata connection.
> 
> Installing the Marvell driver seems to solve all that ails us.
> 
> Download it HERE
> 
> I installed the driver and my external setup is now correctly recognized as a removable device and is instantly detected, where as before I had to power cycle the unit to mount the device.
> 
> It fixed my problems, I hope it adds port multiplication to the equation as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BOOM:


Good stuff! I will upgrade the driver when I get home and let you know how awesome you are!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> I am running the ud3 with an 8350 and I don't think you need anything aftermarket on the vrms. You can't really blow them up considering throttling protection was added to the bios for the vrms. I look at it like this, if you aren't overclocking or plan on using the original hsf then you won't be able to run enough voltage to overheat the vrms as your cpu temp will be at it's ceiling. If you do get an aftermarket cooler, then you can take the amd fan from the old hsf and use it as a spot fan. I think though, as long as the case has good airflow it shouldn't be a problem. I have seen many without spot fans running decently high voltages and I have seen many using spot fans, but I don't think anyone has had to go aftermarket on them.


I think you might have overlooked that he is using a 990fxa-*D3*. Which does not have a VRM cooler...



But I would, for the most part, still stick by what Ultracrapet said.

That board only has a 4x1 power phase scheme. I would NOT even attempt to overclock on that board. And where as the VRMs will get hot if the system is used full load, if a high temp situation is encountered the bios will throttle.

According to the Cpu Support List for that board, the 8350 is supported via the F8 bios.

So bottom line... don't worry about a heat-sink... But don't push the clocks anywhere.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I think you might have overlooked that he is using a 990fxa-*D3*. Which does not have a VRM cooler...
> 
> 
> 
> But I would, for the most part, still stick by what Ultracrapet said.
> 
> That board only has a 4x1 power phase scheme. I would NOT even attempt to overclock on that board. And where as the VRMs will get hot if the system is used full load, if a high temp situation is encountered the bios will throttle.
> 
> According to the Cpu Support List for that board, the 8350 is supported via the F8 bios.
> 
> So bottom line... don't worry about a heat-sink... But don't push the clocks anywhere.


Oops! I've done that a few times, i need to read more carefully. Thanks for correcting that


----------



## pony-tail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I think you might have overlooked that he is using a 990fxa-*D3*. Which does not have a VRM cooler...
> 
> 
> 
> But I would, for the most part, still stick by what Ultracrapet said.
> 
> That board only has a 4x1 power phase scheme. I would NOT even attempt to overclock on that board. And where as the VRMs will get hot if the system is used full load, if a high temp situation is encountered the bios will throttle.
> 
> According to the Cpu Support List for that board, the 8350 is supported via the F8 bios.
> 
> So bottom line... don't worry about a heat-sink... But don't push the clocks anywhere.


Thanks -
The board will be running at stock clocks . I have not sorted a cooler yet (She is looking for a fairly quiet machine ) Case is an Antec Solo II . ( I get to build PCs for nearly all of my family - such fun )


----------



## MadGoat

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
right on,
i can suggest a good cooler for a good price:
Hyper212+ EVO


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Good stuff! I will upgrade the driver when I get home and let you know how awesome you are!


Which driver am I replacing?

I have 3 Storage Controllers, and you only have 2 in your device manager.


Thanks


----------



## MadGoat

Look under your "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers" ... the will probably be a "Standard Sata AHCI controller" ... maybe two... they should both be Marvell controllers as you use 2 controllers on your board.


----------



## dazboogiebot

If anyone can help I have a UD3 rev 1.1 and i need help flashing my BIOS. It says there aren't any files on my flash drive, however i've got the F9 update files on the drive. Any help? Also, posted a thread on this earlier. As well as this, I don't see my HDD showing up on My Computer. It only shows my SSD (which is on the primary sata slot) and my optical drive.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1352773/problem-flashing-bios-on-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud3#post_19120919


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Look under your "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers" ... the will probably be a "Standard Sata AHCI controller" ... maybe two... they should both be Marvell controllers as you use 2 controllers on your board.


Thanks for the quick reply. I didn't mean to take so long to respond, but its taken me this long to make it work.
You were completely correct on the fix. I have just been having problems as the Marvell Driver 1.1 kept installing, and to make this work I had to manually pick the 1.2 driver (1.2.0.1002). Driver 1.2 is actually 3 weeks newer then the 1.1 driver.


Thanks for your help!
*
REP+*

EDIT:
BTW, I now have 5 devices under Storage Controllers in Device Manager. That just seems like a lot for not using any add on cards/straight from the MB.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I didn't mean to take so long to respond, but its taken me this long to make it work.
> You were completely correct on the fix. I have just been having problems as the Marvell Driver 1.1 kept installing, and to make this work I had to manually pick the 1.2 driver (1.2.0.1002). Driver 1.2 is actually 3 weeks newer then the 1.1 driver.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> *
> REP+*
> 
> EDIT:
> BTW, I now have 5 devices under Storage Controllers in Device Manager. That just seems like a lot for not using any add on cards/straight from the MB.


Well there you have it. I have now seen Win 8 BSOD for the first time. Its failing on these 1.2 drivers....


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I didn't mean to take so long to respond, but its taken me this long to make it work.
> You were completely correct on the fix. I have just been having problems as the Marvell Driver 1.1 kept installing, and to make this work I had to manually pick the 1.2 driver (1.2.0.1002). Driver 1.2 is actually 3 weeks newer then the 1.1 driver.
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help!
> *
> REP+*
> 
> EDIT:
> BTW, I now have 5 devices under Storage Controllers in Device Manager. That just seems like a lot for not using any add on cards/straight from the MB.


Right on! I'm glad it worked!

And I learned something new in the process... (Always a bonus)

I figured you'd end up with 2 extra Marvell controllers as your board uses one marvell controller for an extra 2 internal ports and another identical marvell controller for the eSata ports.

Now whats this about a 1.1 vs 1.2 driver?

This is the one I'm using (the one I linked from your motherboard's driver page) :



I didn't realize its nearly 2 years old now...

OH! and I see your using windows 8... are you using your ssd raid for system OS? I ask because the AMD AHCI driver for windows 8 is all screwy, and I'm guessing if your using RAID that the RAID driver is functioning properly for you. Hence my using the MS AHCI Driver...


----------



## gokupe

*GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 Overheating and Shutting down*

Please help, this is driving me crazy

I assembled this machine a couple of months ago, when not gaming the machine is perfect , but playing Assassins Creed the machine shut down every other day, with Prototype no problem, but with Saints Row Third shuts down after 5 minutes

i started doing some tests and found that tmpin2 (North Bridge) was going to 100 ° and that was causing the shut down,
please see the screenshots, with the BIOS default "optimized" values takes a little more than a minute to go to 90 °


Seems that the gaming issue had to do with the amount of data that SRT sends to the processor (maybe prototype doesnt do it so much)

I read some posts about changing the thermal compound, so I cleaned the old one and put Artic Silver 5 from Radio Shack with no improvement

then i "underclocked" but the temperature went up to 90° again in about 4 minutes

Any ideas? RMA? tweak other parameters in BIOS? extra cooler? buy another MoBo? MX-4 instead of artic silver 5?

Thanks in advance guys

Mainboard : GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory: 1 x PNY XLR8 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model MD8192KD3-1600-X9
CPU: AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 3.6GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8150FRGUBOX
PowerSupply:RAIDMAX HYBRID 2 RX-730SS 730W ATX12V V2.2/ EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular
Graphics: Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gokupe*
> 
> *GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 Overheating and Shutting down*
> 
> Please help, this is driving me crazy
> 
> I assembled this machine a couple of months ago, when not gaming the machine is perfect , but playing Assassins Creed the machine shut down every other day, with Prototype no problem, but with Saints Row Third shuts down after 5 minutes
> 
> i started doing some tests and found that tmpin2 (North Bridge) was going to 100 ° and that was causing the shut down,
> please see the screenshots, with the BIOS default "optimized" values takes a little more than a minute to go to 90 °
> 
> 
> Seems that the gaming issue had to do with the amount of data that SRT sends to the processor (maybe prototype doesnt do it so much)
> 
> I read some posts about changing the thermal compound, so I cleaned the old one and put Artic Silver 5 from Radio Shack with no improvement
> 
> then i "underclocked" but the temperature went up to 90° again in about 4 minutes
> 
> Any ideas? RMA? tweak other parameters in BIOS? extra cooler? buy another MoBo? MX-4 instead of artic silver 5?
> 
> Thanks in advance guys
> 
> Mainboard : GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
> Memory: 1 x PNY XLR8 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model MD8192KD3-1600-X9
> CPU: AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 3.6GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8150FRGUBOX
> PowerSupply:RAIDMAX HYBRID 2 RX-730SS 730W ATX12V V2.2/ EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular
> Graphics: Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT


When i was still using the stock hsf i experienced the same issue with nb temp... once i installed my water cooling the nb temp dropped in half. It doesn't really make sense to me as to why, other than i guess heat was leaking from the cpu to the nb or something... but maybe look into getting a little bit better of a cpu cooler. And also ensure your case fans are facing the correct ways to ensure there is infact good airflow through your case. Oh and if you have a side intake, get a nice high pressure fan as it to will help bring the nb temp down (and a few other parts to).


----------



## Fordox

you might want to check your cpu temp. with 70+ degrees, you're destroying your chip.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gokupe*
> 
> *GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 Overheating and Shutting down*
> 
> Please help, this is driving me crazy
> 
> I assembled this machine a couple of months ago, when not gaming the machine is perfect , but playing Assassins Creed the machine shut down every other day, with Prototype no problem, but with Saints Row Third shuts down after 5 minutes
> 
> i started doing some tests and found that tmpin2 (North Bridge) was going to 100 ° and that was causing the shut down,
> please see the screenshots, with the BIOS default "optimized" values takes a little more than a minute to go to 90 °
> 
> 
> Seems that the gaming issue had to do with the amount of data that SRT sends to the processor (maybe prototype doesnt do it so much)
> 
> I read some posts about changing the thermal compound, so I cleaned the old one and put Artic Silver 5 from Radio Shack with no improvement
> 
> then i "underclocked" but the temperature went up to 90° again in about 4 minutes
> 
> Any ideas? RMA? tweak other parameters in BIOS? extra cooler? buy another MoBo? MX-4 instead of artic silver 5?
> 
> Thanks in advance guys
> 
> Mainboard : GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
> Memory: 1 x PNY XLR8 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model MD8192KD3-1600-X9
> CPU: AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 3.6GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8150FRGUBOX
> PowerSupply:RAIDMAX HYBRID 2 RX-730SS 730W ATX12V V2.2/ EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular
> Graphics: Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT


Now when you say you replaced the existing TIM... did you replace the processor TIM?

The tmpin2 is in fact the northbridge temp sensor... But that is the "Motherboard NorthBridge"... not the Processor northbridge also known as the IMC (located on the CPU die itself.)

So in this case, yes your motherboard NB looks to be getting a bit warm, and this is a common occurrence on these boards. The NB heatsink uses a "thermal pad" between it and the NB die. The heatsink can be Pushed down onto the die while its hot to "SEAT" it more to the die allowing it to remove more heat from the NB.

Or, as some people have done (including myself), is to replace the "thermal pad" with actual TIM of your own choice. I would suggest something NON-CONDUCTIVE as the NB does not have a heatspreader to protect traces as well as fear of conductive material "oozing" or generally making contact with your motherboard. (not good)

I personally used my run of the mill, bread and butter TIM that I use on just about everything... MX-4. It did lower my NB temp a considerable amount and allows me to feel comfortable with the temps.

Now I cant remember off the top of my head the temp that Gigabyte has stated is "ok" for the NB. I believe it was 80c but don't quote me. ( KhaoticKomputing can correct me here)

As far as my temps after having replaced the thermal pad... I have not seen anything over 64c on the MB NB since... So give the "Seating trick" a try first, and if your not satisfied or if it doesn't change... I would suggest replacing the NB TIM.


----------



## gokupe

Guys, thanks so much for your answers, they are giving me some light, to your points

1) I am using all the stock heatsink/coolers
2) I just purchased a better cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus ($30 in newegg) , it will come in some days, lets see how it goes. For some reason im reluctant to buy a $200 water cooler (maybe im cheap !)
3) now that i see what i did, i only changed the thermal compound of the heatsinks in red circles, not the ones of the heatsinks in green, so i will give a shot and let u know



4) about what TMPIN2 is. seems there is some controversy about it, im sure about something: I dont know either, but as was posted "after installing a water cpu cooler the TMPIN2 issue was fixed" so seems to me that may be physically close to the CPU (below? socket?)

will keep u posted about 3) today and 4) when the new cooler arrives

thanks !!!

actually this is the offical answer from gigabyte (just arrived) , it confirms that *TMPIN2 = Northbridge*
I will check their suggestions

Dear customer,

SYS = TMPIN0 = Motherboard
CPU = TMPIN1 = CPU
*MCH = TMPIN2 = Northbridge*
Seems cpu overheated. Check cpu and Sys temp in bios sensor direct detection will be more precise.
Do attempt to check and test with procedure below:
1) Test single stick memory a time on slot1 ( slot close to 24 pin ATX connector) , it could be one of unstable stick memory cause issue. Reset bios to load fail-safe and load optimized defaults,
2) DDR3 using 1.5v standard, mother board bios memory voltage is base on 1.5v ( default). Check current memory voltage spec( spec printed on memory module label) adjust memory voltage match under M/B intelligent tweaker memory voltage control.
For example: memory is 1.65v type, change memory from 1.5v to 1.65v.
3) Check cpu temp in bios under PC health status, normal cpu temp should be 33-59C, over 60C considers as overheated.
4) Test with other PCIE graphic card if above procedure checked and issue still persists.
If cpu was oveheated confirmed, remove old thermal pad betwee cpu and cooling heatsink fan, re-apply with new thermal grease or better quality cooling heatsink fan replacement needed.

Best regards,

Gigabyte technical support team.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gokupe*
> 
> Guys, thanks so much for your answers, they are giving me some light, to your points
> 
> 1) I am using all the stock heatsink/coolers
> 2) I just purchased a better cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus ($30 in newegg) , it will come in some days, lets see how it goes. For some reason im reluctant to buy a $200 water cooler (maybe im cheap !)
> 3) now that i see what i did, i only changed the thermal compound of the heatsinks in red circles, not the ones of the heatsinks in green, so i will give a shot and let u know
> 
> 
> 
> 4) about what TMPIN2 is. seems there is some controversy about it, im sure about something: I dont know either, but as was posted "after installing a water cpu cooler the TMPIN2 issue was fixed" so seems to me that may be physically close to the CPU (below? socket?)
> 
> will keep u posted about 3) today and 4) when the new cooler arrives
> 
> thanks !!!


There is No controversy over tmpin2. It is the MB NB. You have replaced the TIM on it already.

I do not advise replacing the pad under the VRM heat sinks. The VRMs are very small and are hard to make flat contact with the heatsink.



At this point I will strongly suggest using a spot cooling fan on the MB NB and increasing air flow from front to back of your motherboard via your case fans. A CPU cooler that exhausts toward the rear case fan will help tremendously as well.

GL


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> There is No controversy over tmpin2. It is the MB NB. You have replaced the TIM on it already.
> 
> I do not advise replacing the pad under the VRM heat sinks. The VRMs are very small and are hard to make flat contact with the heatsink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At this point I will strongly suggest using a spot cooling fan on the MB NB and increasing air flow from front to back of your motherboard via your case fans. A CPU cooler that exhausts toward the rear case fan will help tremendously as well.
> 
> GL


----------



## Roadkill95

Well just came in here to say that my AMD rig is officially sold







I had fun overclocking it, thanks so much for the help, especially fordox, khaotickomputing, ebduncun and a few others i might've forgotten. "twas a good run, it's time to move onto bigger things now


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Good luck









what are you going to replace it with?


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Good luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what are you going to replace it with?


Thanks!

3820 or 3930K depending on my financial situation


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 3820 or 3930K depending on my financial situation


Good luck, Intel is and entirely different beast. I would start reading up now lulz!


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Good luck, Intel is and entirely different beast. I would start reading up now lulz!


Lol I am already! Maybe if you decide to switch camps then I'd be able to help you.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Lol I am already! Maybe if you decide to switch camps then I'd be able to help you.


He's a AMD convert as it is... Like most of us, he got burnt with what bulldozer ended up being...


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Right on! I'm glad it worked!
> 
> And I learned something new in the process... (Always a bonus)
> 
> I figured you'd end up with 2 extra Marvell controllers as your board uses one marvell controller for an extra 2 internal ports and another identical marvell controller for the eSata ports.
> 
> Now whats this about a 1.1 vs 1.2 driver?
> 
> This is the one I'm using (the one I linked from your motherboard's driver page) :
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize its nearly 2 years old now...
> 
> OH! and I see your using windows 8... are you using your ssd raid for system OS? I ask because the AMD AHCI driver for windows 8 is all screwy, and I'm guessing if your using RAID that the RAID driver is functioning properly for you. Hence my using the MS AHCI Driver...


Yes.
SSD raid 0 for OS.
I can take a screen shot of my device manager later and show you what I've got in there. But so far my AMD raid drivers seem to be working properly. Also 1.2 drivers for Marvel BSOD Win 8 twice on my PC. Played with 1.1 again and it appears one of my HDs I was using could be bad as its hard to get both hds to work together. One works all the time and the 2nd takes a few tries. So either 1.2 and a bad HD dont work well together or 1.2 is just bad for Win 8, but whatever the case, no more BSODs since I installed 1.1 drivers again.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roadkill95*
> 
> Lol I am already! Maybe if you decide to switch camps then I'd be able to help you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> He's a AMD convert as it is... Like most of us, he got burnt with what bulldozer ended up being...


Yep. My main rig is the intel in my sig. I still have my ud3/955BE up and running strong. Its my "back up beater" lulz

But I did just recently build a AMD Phemon II x6 based home server







I like AMD.


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yep. My main rig is the intel in my sig. I still have my ud3/955BE up and running strong. Its my "back up beater" lulz
> 
> But I did just recently build a AMD Phemon II x6 based home server
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like AMD.


Ahh, gotcha. Yeah BD could've been better.

Don't really feel great asking this here, but how's this build?

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/zstT

( ironic how I'm asking for advice from you again after I've said that I can give you)


----------



## MadGoat

if i could make a suggestion for a power supply:

cmpsu850ax


----------



## agureghian

Hey guys

I have sort of an annoying issue, I just installed a 5.1 home theater set to my gigabyte 990fx-ud3 mobo and there is some sound issues... the audio is pausing/skipping every few seconds and im confused as to what to do. I already disabled front panel jack detection... the audio seems to be fine on 2.0. I am using a onkyo htrc330 receiver

some help please?


----------



## Roadkill95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> if i could make a suggestion for a power supply:
> 
> cmpsu850ax


Oh no problem, and thanks for the recommendation. However I was under the impression that a 750 would be enough for my system. but seeing as how it's only 10 dollars more, might as well? right.

Also, I might change the watercooling kit. I read a review on tweak towns which said the compression barb fittings are horrible and caused leaks. Should I just buy new fittings or a different kit altogether?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agureghian*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> I have sort of an annoying issue, I just installed a 5.1 home theater set to my gigabyte 990fx-ud3 mobo and there is some sound issues... the audio is pausing/skipping every few seconds and im confused as to what to do. I already disabled front panel jack detection... the audio seems to be fine on 2.0. I am using a onkyo htrc330 receiver
> 
> some help please?


Make sure the latest driver is installed and configure you setup through the handy realtek app in the tray afterward...

RealTek drivers


----------



## gokupe

Guys
a couple of updates about the temperature mistery

1) still is a mystery
2) I changed the termal compound of the processor without any impact
3) I followed the instructions of gigabyte (seee below):
3.1) removed 1 memory stick , without change
3.2) forced teh bios to give 1.65 volts to the memory (memory specifications) and nothing
3.3) as mentioned in 2) there was no change with the termal compound of the cpu
the suggestions about thE memory didnt make sense but i tried them anyway without success

At this point the only thing left is to wait for the new heatsink to arrive and test it (COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus)

will let u know
THANKS FOR THE IDEAS AND SUGGESTIONS









_1) Test single stick memory a time on slot1 ( slot close to 24 pin ATX connector) , it could be one of unstable stick memory cause issue. Reset bios to load fail-safe and load optimized defaults,
2) DDR3 using 1.5v standard, mother board bios memory voltage is base on 1.5v ( default). Check current memory voltage spec( spec printed on memory module label) adjust memory voltage match under M/B intelligent tweaker memory voltage control.
For example: memory is 1.65v type, change memory from 1.5v to 1.65v.
3) Check cpu temp in bios under PC health status, normal cpu temp should be 33-59C, over 60C considers as overheated.
4) Test with other PCIE graphic card if above procedure checked and issue still persists.
If cpu was oveheated confirmed, remove old thermal pad betwee cpu and cooling heatsink fan, re-apply with new thermal grease or better quality cooling heatsink fan replacement needed._


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gokupe*
> 
> Guys
> a couple of updates about the temperature mistery
> 
> 1) still is a mystery
> 2) I changed the termal compound of the processor without any impact
> 3) I followed the instructions of gigabyte (seee below):
> 3.1) removed 1 memory stick , without change
> 3.2) forced teh bios to give 1.65 volts to the memory (memory specifications) and nothing
> 3.3) as mentioned in 2) there was no change with the termal compound of the cpu
> the suggestions about thE memory didnt make sense but i tried them anyway without success
> 
> At this point the only thing left is to wait for the new heatsink to arrive and test it (COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus)
> 
> will let u know
> THANKS FOR THE IDEAS AND SUGGESTIONS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _1) Test single stick memory a time on slot1 ( slot close to 24 pin ATX connector) , it could be one of unstable stick memory cause issue. Reset bios to load fail-safe and load optimized defaults,
> 2) DDR3 using 1.5v standard, mother board bios memory voltage is base on 1.5v ( default). Check current memory voltage spec( spec printed on memory module label) adjust memory voltage match under M/B intelligent tweaker memory voltage control.
> For example: memory is 1.65v type, change memory from 1.5v to 1.65v.
> 3) Check cpu temp in bios under PC health status, normal cpu temp should be 33-59C, over 60C considers as overheated.
> 4) Test with other PCIE graphic card if above procedure checked and issue still persists.
> If cpu was oveheated confirmed, remove old thermal pad betwee cpu and cooling heatsink fan, re-apply with new thermal grease or better quality cooling heatsink fan replacement needed._


listen, judging by you tmpin2 as well as you tmpin1... your case has little to no air flow across the motherboard. Take a picture of the inside of you case with a short explanation of your fan locations and im sure there would be many of us that could chime in with helpful tips.

You are chasing your tail. Listen to some sound advice here and follow these steps:

1. Get a fan (I dont care what it is, just as long as it pushes a good amount of air)
2. Open case and clean up (zip tie, tape, whatever) any wires, or obstructions in the path of fresh air flow between the fans and the motherboard.
3. Point previously mentioned fan at motherboard with case open.
4. Turn on fan to it's highest setting.
5. Boot windows and open HWmonitor and run prime95.
6. Monitor temperatures.
7. Be amazed

This will prove whether or not you problem is heat related. If tmpin2 does not go over 80c and the computer does not shut down, then you need to rethink your cooling scheme.

GL


----------



## adtakhs

I have GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD7 R1.1 in my new system !

My system is:

AMD FX 8350
SCYTHE MUGEN 2100 REV B.
*GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD7* (*F10* BIOS)
*GEIL VEVO CORSA 8GB (2X4GB) DDR3 2133Mhz10-11-11-30: GOC34GB2133C10ADC | GOC38GB2133C10ADC*
http://www.geil.com.tw/products/show/id/315
CRUCIAL M4 256GB SATA III
W.D CAVIAR BLACK 1TB SATA III
ASUS HD 2X 5870 1GB DDR5 Cross.
ENERMAX GALAXY 850WATT

I run my system default with only the memory at 2133Mhz *10-11-11-30-47 -2T / 1,5v*

When i put *C1E* & *C6 SATES* enable in bios , i have restarts in win 7 64bit ....

Is there any other who has the same issue like my ?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adtakhs*
> 
> I have GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD7 R1.1 in my new system !
> 
> My system is:
> 
> AMD FX 8350
> SCYTHE MUGEN 2100 REV B.
> *GIGABYTE 990FXA-UD7* (*F10* BIOS)
> *GEIL VEVO CORSA 8GB (2X4GB) DDR3 2133Mhz10-11-11-30: GOC34GB2133C10ADC | GOC38GB2133C10ADC*
> http://www.geil.com.tw/products/show/id/315
> CRUCIAL M4 256GB SATA III
> W.D CAVIAR BLACK 1TB SATA III
> ASUS HD 2X 5870 1GB DDR5 Cross.
> ENERMAX GALAXY 850WATT
> 
> I run my system default with only the memory at 2133Mhz *10-11-11-30-47 -2T / 1,5v*
> 
> When i put *C1E* & *C6 SATES* enable in bios , i have restarts in win 7 64bit ....
> 
> Is there any other who has the same issue like my ?


First off, Welcome to the forums!









And secondly, it looks like you need to bump your memory voltage up:


----------



## gokupe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> listen, judging by you tmpin2 as well as you tmpin1... your case has little to no air flow across the motherboard. Take a picture of the inside of you case with a short explanation of your fan locations and im sure there would be many of us that could chime in with helpful tips.
> 
> You are chasing your tail. Listen to some sound advice here and follow these steps:
> 
> 1. Get a fan (I dont care what it is, just as long as it pushes a good amount of air)
> 2. Open case and clean up (zip tie, tape, whatever) any wires, or obstructions in the path of fresh air flow between the fans and the motherboard.
> 3. Point previously mentioned fan at motherboard with case open.
> 4. Turn on fan to it's highest setting.
> 5. Boot windows and open HWmonitor and run prime95.
> 6. Monitor temperatures.
> 7. Be amazed
> 
> This will prove whether or not you problem is heat related. If tmpin2 does not go over 80c and the computer does not shut down, then you need to rethink your cooling scheme.
> 
> GL


Dear MadGoat

sounds possible, so I had the case open and placed a big (well , sort of) fan in front of the case at maximun speed, that should be more powerful than any little case fan

the results were the same everything overheating, at this point i have just 2 theories :
1) the cooler is bad (materials, speed, ... i dont know)
2) the main board is bad

i will see if the cooler is the problem in few days when the new one i purchased arrive

please also see below the layout of my mobo, doesnt look so crowded, does it?


----------



## agureghian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Make sure the latest driver is installed and configure you setup through the handy realtek app in the tray afterward...
> 
> RealTek drivers


I really appreciate the response. However, i updated my drivers from gigabyte and from realtek, and the issue persists...


----------



## adtakhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> First off, Welcome to the forums!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And secondly, it looks like you need to bump your memory voltage up:


No this is my memory



Some of them works with 1,65v but my memories works only with *1,5v*

I cant understand why i have this issue !

I have change two fx 8350 , i have disable modules, i work with lower freq. but i have the same problem ....









When i work with C1E & C6 STATES enable I have many restarts (no bsods) ! When i dibable this function my system works fine at 2133Mhz 10-11-11-30-47-2T/ 1,5v !!
Cool n Quiet works fine !


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gokupe*
> 
> Dear MadGoat
> 
> sounds possible, so I had the case open and placed a big (well , sort of) fan in front of the case at maximun speed, that should be more powerful than any little case fan
> 
> the results were the same everything overheating, at this point i have just 2 theories :
> 1) the cooler is bad (materials, speed, ... i dont know)
> 2) the main board is bad
> 
> i will see if the cooler is the problem in few days when the new one i purchased arrive
> 
> please also see below the layout of my mobo, doesnt look so crowded, does it?


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Yes.
> SSD raid 0 for OS.
> I can take a screen shot of my device manager later and show you what I've got in there. But so far my AMD raid drivers seem to be working properly. Also 1.2 drivers for Marvel BSOD Win 8 twice on my PC. Played with 1.1 again and it appears one of my HDs I was using could be bad as its hard to get both hds to work together. One works all the time and the 2nd takes a few tries. So either 1.2 and a bad HD dont work well together or 1.2 is just bad for Win 8, but whatever the case, no more BSODs since I installed 1.1 drivers again.


For some reason I feel this should be better... Not that is a good "true" measure of a PC's performance, but its close right?


Here is my Device Manager


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> For some reason I feel this should be better... Not that is a good "true" measure of a PC's performance, but its close right?
> 
> 
> Here is my Device Manager


That is certainly a better than my WEI score:



My video cards are holding me back. They still play the games I play without problem though...

Your storage drivers are exactly what I expected. 2 Marvell controllers and your AMD controller.

Looks good!


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> That is certainly a better than my WEI score:
> 
> 
> 
> My video cards are holding me back. They still play the games I play without problem though...
> 
> Your storage drivers are exactly what I expected. 2 Marvell controllers and your AMD controller.
> 
> Looks good!


What type of HD do you have to get an 8?
Single ssd? I have a raid0, and would expect slower drives in raid 0 to be faster then a single drive.

Also I have 4x1866 8gb ram sticks. Is it possible to make them run at 1866? Or at least faster then 1333?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> What type of HD do you have to get an 8?
> Single ssd? I have a raid0, and would expect slower drives in raid 0 to be faster then a single drive.
> 
> Also I have 4x1866 8gb ram sticks. Is it possible to make them run at 1866? Or at least faster then 1333?


SSD's in my sig. I'm now running my OS from the Vertex 4 as it has slightly faster random reads than my Corsair Perf Pro. But both do VERY well. A lot of the time raid will decrease random reads and writes do to controller, driver and software overhead. This can lead to decreased scoring. Raid 0 will only increase sequential speeds... (Large file transfer speeds). But most of the time will decrease small file performance that everyone uses 85% of the time.

As for your ram... CRANK IT UP! You are loosing out on a ton of performance with your ram idling at 1333 on a 8350! FX processors are made with 1866 memory in mind, thats a default speed for your processor. However most AMD motherboard don't correctly set memory speeds in the BIOS. I always suggest manually setting memory speed, voltage and timing to ensure proper memory operation.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> SSD's in my sig. I'm now running my OS from the Vertex 4 as it has slightly faster random reads than my Corsair Perf Pro. But both do VERY well. A lot of the time raid will decrease random reads and writes do to controller, driver and software overhead. This can lead to decreased scoring. Raid 0 will only increase sequential speeds... (Large file transfer speeds). But most of the time will decrease small file performance that everyone uses 85% of the time.
> 
> As for your ram... CRANK IT UP! You are loosing out on a ton of performance with your ram idling at 1333 on a 8350! FX processors are made with 1866 memory in mind, thats a default speed for your processor. However most AMD motherboard don't correctly set memory speeds in the BIOS. I always suggest manually setting memory speed, voltage and timing to ensure proper memory operation.


Ssd stuff- I guess that makes sense. I was getting a 7.6 on that raid setup in win 7 until I upgraded the firmware. Hoping another updates comes out, or I can redo the raid with a smaller block size?
RAM - I have not spent hours trying every combination just yet, but so far I cant get past cmos oc error when set to 1866 unless I only use 2 sticks of ram.


----------



## sgtgates

Hey guys Im stumped here, I have used this ud3 990fx revision 1, 2 on different builds and now I have gotten the revision 3. But the cpu socket seems messed up for the am3+ the only thing wrong is this raised surface in the middle of the socket. Tried to take a picture. Im unable to drop my 6300 in correctly with this "bump" is this something anyone has experienced? This is a brand new revision 3. Can anyone help?


----------



## ebduncan

it is fine, there are couple of different sockets. That looks like a foxcon part. I have the same socket, works fine.


----------



## sgtgates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> it is fine, there are couple of different sockets. That looks like a foxcon part. I have the same socket, works fine.


\

But its not, I cant fit the chip in properly/evenly. Its too high. All the other boards don't seem to have this and the new manufacturer for the socket is called LOTES


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering if some could help us.

The other day for no apparent reason during post my system decided that it wanted to say something along the lines of; BIOS is corrupted, attempting restore = FAILED, restoring back up BIOS = clearing, writing back up BIOS = completed.

After this, all my saved BIOS Profiles and everything was erased. And I was back to BIOS F2.

Ever since I can not my OC stable at 4.2Ghz, I have managed to get 4Ghz stable but at a higher vCore (1.475v)

Would I be wise to update my BIOS again, to get a better OC? Has anyone else uncounted this? Or why did this occur?

P.s. I have a Rev. 1.0


----------



## sgtgates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering if some could help us.
> 
> The other day for no apparent reason during post my system decided that it wanted to say something along the lines of; BIOS is corrupted, attempting restore = FAILED, restoring back up BIOS = clearing, writing back up BIOS = completed.
> 
> After this, all my saved BIOS Profiles and everything was erased. And I was back to BIOS F2.
> 
> Ever since I can not my OC stable at 4.2Ghz, I have managed to get 4Ghz stable but at a higher vCore (1.475v)
> 
> Would I be wise to update my BIOS again, to get a better OC? Has anyone else uncounted this? Or why did this occur?
> 
> P.s. I have a Rev. 1.0


hmm. Yes that was the dual bios feature kicking in, for some reason the bios you had got corrupted, usually on power off on bios updates or something along those lines mabye overclocking issues. Anywho, just re update the bios and you should be fine!


----------



## ginger_nuts

Should I just pick BIOS update F9?

F10a is listed as being a BETA!!!!


----------



## sgtgates

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Should I just pick BIOS update F9?
> 
> F10a is listed as being a BETA!!!!


yeah just do bios f9. Then, later on when f10 is out of beta stage you can update it again. If your using that easy bios utility through windows make sure to uncheck the little box in the corner that says revert bios to stock settings so you dont loose your overclocks and such when you update to f10 later


----------



## Ultracarpet

anyone tried the f10 for the UD3 yet?


----------



## krajlevic

I've updated yesterday, nothing much to say, maybe the AHCI POST and the detection of HDD are quicker but not sure about that. It's the FFa for 1.2 revision of the UD3 in my concern.


----------



## MadGoat

I have not,

Isn't F10 Just a Piledriver (Vishera) Micro code Update? I'm Still on F9b ...


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I have not,
> 
> Isn't F10 Just a Piledriver (Vishera) Micro code Update? I'm Still on F9b ...


Would a "Micro code update" do anything for me? I am not that edumacated on the subject


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> Would a "Micro code update" do anything for me? I am not that edumacated on the subject


Unless your using a Vishera chip, no.

Micro-code, or AGESA code, is pretty much just the "Model" information for processors that are supported by the board. So if a new processor is released and is put into a board that's architecture supports it, it can be identified correctly. (The short of it)

A little bit more on the subject here.


----------



## Red1776

Speaking of which, for those of you like myself that are running the UD7. There is a new beta BIOS live on Gigabyte's website
(F11a) can be had here
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3880#bios


----------



## Loosenut

there is also a beta bios for the ud5 F12a

downloaded but have not used it yet.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Update AHCI ROM version


OOOOO!

I bet this will solve the AMD AHCI driver crash in Windows 8 problem that most 990FX users have been having!

OOOO excited...

And *UltraCarpet*! I was totally wrong about F10 only being a Micro-Code update. This AHCI Rom update.... Maybe more SSD performance anyone?


----------



## MadGoat

Update:

That's a negative on the AHCI ROM curing the Win8 AMD AHCI Driver crashing.... Stick with the MS Standard SATA driver.

Although everything else looks fine... Just like F9


----------



## victorzamora

Can somebody here do me a huge favor and touch the NB heatsink in their 990FXA-UD3 after about an hour of runtime and tell me if it's uncomfortably hot? I just RMA'd my 990FXA-UD3 and was told no issues. I'm having continued crashing and I'm not sure if it's my GPU or CPU or my mobo. I RMA'd my GPU, too but was told Gigabyte lost it and just randomly got a package with it in it with no work done to it. I don't know if it's normal, but my other two heatsinks are fine. My NB heatsink is REALLY hot (you can't leave your hand on it for more than a couple of seconds). Gigabyte said no problems were found with it....I wonder if they ran it for long enough.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Update:
> 
> That's a negative on the AHCI ROM curing the Win8 AMD AHCI Driver crashing.... Stick with the MS Standard SATA driver.
> 
> Although everything else looks fine... Just like F9


LOL you got me all excited with your last post.. kept reading and now I am not sure if I am going to update it or wait for the next (non beta) BIOS release.

As mentioned before, my RAID 0 drivers work just fine. Its the Marvel drivers I have problems with. When I have the Marvel Drivers installed, and drives attached to the eSATA ports, I get BSODs. I have the BSOD info (shows drivers it failed on and all) if anyone cares and thinks it can help solve this problem. (hopping Gigabyte BIOS and Marvel Driver coders are reading this)


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> SSD's in my sig. I'm now running my OS from the Vertex 4 as it has slightly faster random reads than my Corsair Perf Pro. But both do VERY well. A lot of the time raid will decrease random reads and writes do to controller, driver and software overhead. This can lead to decreased scoring. Raid 0 will only increase sequential speeds... (Large file transfer speeds). But most of the time will decrease small file performance that everyone uses 85% of the time.
> 
> As for your ram... CRANK IT UP! You are loosing out on a ton of performance with your ram idling at 1333 on a 8350! FX processors are made with 1866 memory in mind, thats a default speed for your processor. However most AMD motherboard don't correctly set memory speeds in the BIOS. I always suggest manually setting memory speed, voltage and timing to ensure proper memory operation.


I just read/found a AMD article saying that if you fill all 4 slots with RAM, the chips only support RAM running at 1600 (with out OC). Well I tried and was able to get the RAM to run at 1600 first try. I am up to try any realistic ideas on getting the RAM to work on 1866 though. But in the end, when ever I buy into water, this will give me some room to OC, and not have to worry about my RAM being a bad batch.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> I just read/found a AMD article saying that if you fill all 4 slots with RAM, the chips only support RAM running at 1600 (with out OC). Well I tried and was able to get the RAM to run at 1600 first try. I am up to try any realistic ideas on getting the RAM to work on 1866 though. But in the end, when ever I buy into water, this will give me some room to OC, and not have to worry about my RAM being a bad batch.


That is correct sir and I must have missed the part about your using 4 sticks of ram...

You might be able to OC over 1600, but 1866 might be out of reach with 4 sticks. Work on tightening your timings if your interested in getting all the performance you can.


----------



## gokupe

*Mystery Solved*

So this was the story in a nutshell (I include it here so maybe can help someone), i built this system :

Mainboard : GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
Memory: 1 x PNY XLR8 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model MD8192KD3-1600-X9
CPU: AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 3.6GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8150FRGUBOX
PowerSupply:RAIDMAX HYBRID 2 RX-730SS 730W ATX12V V2.2/ EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular
Graphics: Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT

and the CPU and TMPIN2 was ultra high (90C+ and 78C+)

I changed the thermal paste to artic silver 5 with little or NO improvement
I switched memory modules and used only one without improvement (Gigabyte suggestion)
I use the "fail safe" settings in the bios with little improvement on the time to critical heat, but still overheating
I use the "Underclocked" manually the settings in the bios with little improvement on the time to critical heat, but still overheating
*I changed the stock heatsink from the FX-8150 to a massive and beautiful COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus, and now the problem is solved, the temperatures (44C and 55C) after 10 minutes of Prime95:cheers:
*
This is something similar than what happened to ultracarpet
http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/4200#post_19127174

so my conclusions and recommendations

1) the stock heatsink of the AMD FX-8150 is JUNK , useless, will burn your expensive CPU and mainboard . Get a good heatsink as the COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus ($30 at newegg) or if you want a water one for $100+
The stock heatsink is great if you are only using this super processor to browse the internet, but for gaming, video editing or anything that demmands a decent use of the CPU, doesnt work , and don't even consider overclocking
Its like selling a Ferrari that runs perfect up to 30mph, and if you drive it at 50+ mph it will overheat and explode, come on AMD guys! , provide a decent heatsink please (just $30)

2) the thermal paste of the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 seems OK (although was kind of dry), i didn't notice any big improvement with the Artic Silver 5, but changing it can help (try the heatsink first)

3) about TMPIN2, Gigabyte said is the Northbridge, some people think different, i dont know, BUT i tell you for sure, once the CPU issue was solved with the COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus , the TMPIN2 was also down, so it may be physically close to the CPU (same as ultracarpet)

4) Thanks to all the people in the forum that shared ideas and suggestions , you guys are great


----------



## Roder J

heard alot about the stock heatsinks being junk so when I did my sons I put the seidon 120 on right off. Havent ran prime yet on it but temps are very cool:thumb:


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gokupe*
> 
> *Mystery Solved*
> 
> So this was the story in a nutshell (I include it here so maybe can help someone), i built this system :
> 
> Mainboard : GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
> Memory: 1 x PNY XLR8 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model MD8192KD3-1600-X9
> CPU: AMD FX-8150 Zambezi 3.6GHz Socket AM3+ 125W Eight-Core Desktop Processor FD8150FRGUBOX
> PowerSupply:RAIDMAX HYBRID 2 RX-730SS 730W ATX12V V2.2/ EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready Modular
> Graphics: Nvidia GeForce 9800 GT
> 
> and the CPU and TMPIN2 was ultra high (90C+ and 78C+)
> 
> I changed the thermal paste to artic silver 5 with little or NO improvement
> I switched memory modules and used only one without improvement (Gigabyte suggestion)
> I use the "fail safe" settings in the bios with little improvement on the time to critical heat, but still overheating
> I use the "Underclocked" manually the settings in the bios with little improvement on the time to critical heat, but still overheating
> *I changed the stock heatsink from the FX-8150 to a massive and beautiful COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus, and now the problem is solved, the temperatures (44C and 55C) after 10 minutes of Prime95:cheers:
> *
> This is something similar than what happened to ultracarpet
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/4200#post_19127174
> 
> so my conclusions and recommendations
> 
> 1) the stock heatsink of the AMD FX-8150 is JUNK , useless, will burn your expensive CPU and mainboard . Get a good heatsink as the COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus ($30 at newegg) or if you want a water one for $100+
> The stock heatsink is great if you are only using this super processor to browse the internet, but for gaming, video editing or anything that demmands a decent use of the CPU, doesnt work , and don't even consider overclocking
> Its like selling a Ferrari that runs perfect up to 30mph, and if you drive it at 50+ mph it will overheat and explode, come on AMD guys! , provide a decent heatsink please (just $30)
> 
> 2) the thermal paste of the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 seems OK (although was kind of dry), i didn't notice any big improvement with the Artic Silver 5, but changing it can help (try the heatsink first)
> 
> 3) about TMPIN2, Gigabyte said is the Northbridge, some people think different, i dont know, BUT i tell you for sure, once the CPU issue was solved with the COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus , the TMPIN2 was also down, so it may be physically close to the CPU (same as ultracarpet)
> 
> 4) Thanks to all the people in the forum that shared ideas and suggestions , you guys are great


Heat soak. would be what was causing issue's. Sheple can think what ever they want about TMPIN02, but it is the North Bdrige(Not CPU-NB).

Avoid AS5. Has a 200 hour cure time.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Heat soak. would be what was causing issue's. Sheple can think what ever they want about TMPIN02, but it is the North Bdrige(Not CPU-NB).
> 
> Avoid AS5. Has a 200 hour cure time.


...and is conductive in a wrong way







.

but I agree about what "sheple" think here... heat soaking and the simple fact that the stock heatsink dumps heat right onto to NB heatsink.

It's all good, "Sheple" jyst be trippin'. lol

(all in good fun, im a little punchy this morning)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> ...and is conductive in a wrong way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> but I agree about what "sheple" think here... heat soaking and the simple fact that the stock heatsink dumps heat right onto to NB heatsink.
> 
> It's all good, "Sheple" jyst be trippin'. lol
> 
> (all in good fun, im a little punchy this morning)


lulz, forgot about the conductive aspect of AS5. Thank you. I also feel "punchy" this morning. I blame the weather.

I personally avoid "stock style" cooler's, As you pointed out they put the stock style cooler's as they dump heat on the bit's and bob's surrounding the CPU socket.(RAM, Northbridge, MOSFET's, ect).

Tower style cooler's are far superior







I still use a CM 212+ on my back up rig. Allow's my UD3/955BE combo to hold 4.0Ghz stable 24/7 year round...even with ambiant temps in the 90f area.


----------



## ebduncan

the stock CPU heatsink is fine for stock speed clocks.

The north bridge can run 80c no problem. It will not cause your computer to crash, so stop thinking it will. If your computer crashes it is for some other reason, other than north bridge temp. Gigabyte has already told everyone under the sun, that it is fine just read the posts here.

Secondly if you are SO concerned with the heat in the VRM / North bridge area Add a fan. No need to replace the CPU cooler, just buy a fan. I have done this, but I am overclocking and I'm water cooled, so No Cpu fan to blow air in the area. For what it is worth my North Bridge Does not go over 53c.

Another thing you can do is purchase bolts/nuts/ nylon washers, and remove the VRM heatsinks and the North bridge Heatsinks. Replace the thermal pad on the VRMs with a higher quality one.
Such as this
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16940/thr-171/Fujipoly_Extreme_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290

as for the North Bridge
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16883/thr-168/Fujipoly_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_60_x_50_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290

Note Yes I use a thermal pad on my North bridge, but i also have nuts and bolts securing the heatsink VERY snugly to the board. I am using a pad because the core of the north bridge is tiny and easy to damage with excessive pressure. The Thermal pad prevents damage to the north bridge core and promotes better cooling due to making contact with the surrounding area. Some folks will use thermal paste, which works, just doesn't offer any sort of protection to the north bridge core, ESP with using nuts and bolts instead of the stock plastic push pins.


----------



## General Mars

I have a Gigabyte GA-970A-D3. I'm considering upgrading to the GA-990FXA-UD5 or maybe even -UD7. I was wondering if anyone had any opinions or recommendations in regards to it. Also, I am wondering if my G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 1866 will run at their correct timings on this board (I.e. are there any compatibility issues). How well does it handle overclocking in general? Any help, insight and guidance that can be provided is much appreciated.


----------



## prznar1

Yo!

Anyone could tell me is there any linux support for Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3? Drivers etc?


----------



## joseoca

hie there,

I'm having serious issues with my GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev1.0).
I just install a FX8320, with stock settings, no overclock.
I run all kind of stress test on the system (Aida64, OCCT, Prime95, AMD Overdrive), no one pass, all of them says, "hardware error" on different cores.
If I disable "Calculation Test" on all cores, AMD Overdrive Stability Test, runs OK.
Cinemark11 runs OK, but 3DMark11 hangsup when it runs Physics Test.
I did not detect any power loss during tests, the power of all cores stays stable during tests.
I had the F9 Bios version, then I update it to the F10a beta version, run the tests again, same problem.

The system has this specs:
- Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev1.0) Bios F10a
- 2 x 4Gb DDR3 Kingston Hyperx (KHX1600C9D3B1/4G)
- AMD FX-8320 8-core (FD8320FRW8KHK - FA1237PGN)
- MSI NGTX560TX-TI Twin Frost II
- TT 700w PSU
- OCZ SSD Vertex4 256Gb

This is the 3rd FX series I'm trying,
1º- a FX8150 : faulty micro, windows won't even boot, crashing after "loading operating system..", send it for RMA.
2º- a FX8320 : battlefield 3 crashed everytime, won't pass stress test or calculation tests, send it again for RMA,
3º- a FX8320 : last one, this time I don't think it's AMD problem.

I'm sending the mobo/cpu/ddr3 to the RMA Department of gigabyte here in argentina for review probably friday or next week, does anyone has another idea before I do that?,

thanks in advance,


----------



## Fordox

load optimized defaults in bios.


----------



## joseoca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> load optimized defaults in bios.


Was one of the first things i've done, that and I clear the bios with a jumper after the upgrade to F10a,

Thanks for your coment,


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joseoca*
> 
> Was one of the first things i've done, that and I clear the bios with a jumper after the upgrade to F10a,
> 
> Thanks for your coment,


I'd hate to say it, but I think you got a dead board... RMA dat sucka


----------



## Mokona512

Has anyone tried the f10a bios on the ud3 yet? interested in finding a bios that overclocks at good or better than f5


----------



## MadGoat

I'm using F10a ATM,

Seems all the same to me. Didn't gain or loose anything....


----------



## slizersam

Edit* earlyer post about the ud7 f11a bios.

Anyone tried it yet?


----------



## sunday

on3 small question:

here is my setup-

phenom 2 955
amd ram 8gb ( my board is a 990fx-ud3)

I can raise the base clock (200mhz) easily but the cpu multiplier can't be rose beyond x16. Do I miss something, I'm a bit new to overclock, I've been easy reaching 220 mhz base clock at stock voltage. But I wonder...

As for cpu cooling, I am on air, with a xygmatek htd-s212 and at stock setting, It's only a few degrees above ambient, on the cpu. less than 10 deg. Do I necessarily need to remove some power saving features to just tune it to let's say 3-400 mhz faster cpu clock?


----------



## Pudfark

I have the same MB and had the same processor "sunday".
I had it over clocked by multiplier only at X18 or 3.6ghz.
I had all power saving features turned off. It was stable at that speed.
Nothing else was adjusted or tweaked.

That's a place to start and I hope it's helpful.
Plenty of smart folks here, who can take you further.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunday*
> 
> on3 small question:
> 
> here is my setup-
> 
> phenom 2 955
> amd ram 8gb ( my board is a 990fx-ud3)
> 
> I can raise the base clock (200mhz) easily but the cpu multiplier can't be rose beyond x16. Do I miss something, I'm a bit new to overclock, I've been easy reaching 220 mhz base clock at stock voltage. But I wonder...
> 
> As for cpu cooling, I am on air, with a xygmatek htd-s212 and at stock setting, It's only a few degrees above ambient, on the CPU. less than 10 deg. Do I necessarily need to remove some power saving features to just tune it to let's say 3-400 mhz faster cpu clock?


To get a 400mhz increase out of a 955, you will need to increase the voltage.

Your cooling seems to be more than adequate to deal with the increased heat load that will be produced.

As far as the power saving features... No you do not have to disable them (I personally refuse to run without). However, many here will suggest you disable them while finding the comfortable processor's OC. Afterward re-enabling the power saving features (C1E, CnQ, etc...) allowing for a cool running and energy efficient OC'ed machine.

Many guides here on OCN for AMD Overclocking. Take a look around, stay awhile, and welcome!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sunday*
> 
> on3 small question:
> 
> here is my setup-
> 
> phenom 2 955
> amd ram 8gb ( my board is a 990fx-ud3)
> 
> I can raise the base clock (200mhz) easily but the cpu multiplier can't be rose beyond x16. Do I miss something, I'm a bit new to overclock, I've been easy reaching 220 mhz base clock at stock voltage. But I wonder...
> 
> As for cpu cooling, I am on air, with a xygmatek htd-s212 and at stock setting, It's only a few degrees above ambient, on the cpu. less than 10 deg. Do I necessarily need to remove some power saving features to just tune it to let's say 3-400 mhz faster cpu clock?


If this is a new build I would suggest manually setting everything in the BIOS to STOCK settings and then run some test's( Custom Prime95 Blend using most of availble memory, IBT, Memtest86 and furmark @ max). I would even go as far as running IBT and Furmark at the same time. This will put CPU, RAM and GPU on full load. This will let you know if anything is faulty or not. I can't stand trying to trouble shoot an OC with out knowing if all hardware is 100% working.

Then you can start overclocking. On my 955BE/UD3 system I set the CPU Vcore @ 1.50v and the CPU-NB @ 1.35v and started bumping the CPU multi and the CPU-NB freq until I started getting too high of temps for overclocking(mid 50's on C scale), Then I would back the Voltage's down some and try to bump the freq's again. 1.50v on the CPU-VCore is safe for some testing with your cooling, but I wouldn't go much higher, 1.55v is considered the max safe voltage with out extreme cooling. I ended up with 4.0Ghz @1.440v(after Vdroop. 1.450 in BIOS) and 2800Mhz on the CPU-NB with 1.30v. I left all the power saving feature's on, but do suggest leaving Hibernation/sleep mode out of overclocking.

Phenom II's are silly easy to OC.... Just add voltage lulz.


----------



## Subvibes

Hi all.








I've just got myself an FX-8350 CPU, and wondered if anyone here with the GA-990FXA had any tips for tweaks?
I'll share anything I learn with you all too once I start playing.
Have an awesome weekend.


----------



## Fordox

the fx windows fixes would be nice to have, they wont impact your performance that much, but it will work.


----------



## EyeCU247

It appears way more people have ud3 then 5/7 boards. Other then price is there any reason why people would choose 3 boards?
I see random posts/comments where some people say if you oc not to buy a 3 board and 2 days later I see someone posting 4.8/5ghz oc.
I had a ud3 board for almost 3 months. Bought it cheap as an open box and after I put in my 8350 had crazy problems with all apps giving me different temp readings. 5 different apps all open giving me different numbers. And bios not matching any... Few other odd things too that I can't remember the details right now...
I bought the extra warranty as it was an open box and returned it and bought an open box ud5. No problems with reading temps until I installed win 8... Different subject I am working on resolving...
But so far I do feel better having my ud5 board, but I really can't explain why that is.
Haven't oced anything yet....

Edit
Apps were displaying from 20c to 120c on my cpu under load...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> It appears way more people have ud3 then 5/7 boards. Other then price is there any reason why people would choose 3 boards?
> I see random posts/comments where some people say if you oc not to buy a 3 board and 2 days later I see someone posting 4.8/5ghz oc.
> I had a ud3 board for almost 3 months. Bought it cheap as an open box and after I put in my 8350 had crazy problems with all apps giving me different temp readings. 5 different apps all open giving me different numbers. And bios not matching any... Few other odd things too that I can't remember the details right now...
> I bought the extra warranty as it was an open box and returned it and bought an open box ud5. No problems with reading temps until I installed win 8... Different subject I am working on resolving...
> But so far I do feel better having my ud5 board, but I really can't explain why that is.
> Haven't oced anything yet....
> 
> Edit
> Apps were displaying from 20c to 120c on my cpu under load...


To be honest the options that set the UD5 and 7 apart from the UD3 are a complete waste of money to most people. There are a few that actually use all the spiffy options they offer but its a small crowd. All 3 of the boards do have a problem with reading temps. Its not just the UD3.

Each program will read a different temp. You have to use common sense to figure out what program is reading true. obviously there is no way your PC was at 120c. My UD3 would read max temps as high as 252c. Impossible temps. Finally I found OpenHardware Monitor. The temps it shows for me are right. AMD overdrive was the worst one. At idle it was reading up to 200+c for CPU temp.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> To be honest the options that set the UD5 and 7 apart from the UD3 are a complete waste of money to most people. There are a few that actually use all the spiffy options they offer but its a small crowd. All 3 of the boards do have a problem with reading temps. Its not just the UD3.
> 
> Each program will read a different temp. You have to use common sense to figure out what program is reading true. obviously there is no way your PC was at 120c. My UD3 would read max temps as high as 252c. Impossible temps. Finally I found OpenHardware Monitor. The temps it shows for me are right. AMD overdrive was the worst one. At idle it was reading up to 200+c for CPU temp.


What are these special features? Anything better for oc?
The biggest one that I know of is being able to run 3 pcie gfx cards on the ud5 board, and why I bought the ud3 as I don't plan on doing this. I bought the ud5 as they were out of 3s at the time. I thought all bios options features were the same... Ud5 has a better heat sink and pipe on the north bridge etc. Also more sata ports... I use all of them so I do like that...


----------



## ebduncan

I haven't had any trouble with monitoring temps.

Like Khaotic said, Open Hardware Monitor works best.

tmpin 0- System temp
tmpin-1- Cpu Socket temp (not core temp)
tmpin-2-Northbridge (per gigabyte) I question this reading, because from my results it scales with cpu vcore, which would point to VRM temp instead rather than the north bridge.

Core temps listed via hardware monitor are accurate under load. Not so much if your using cool and quiet, will commonly report number below ambient, again this is under idle conditions. Seems like once your actual core temp is around 40c it reports fine.

as far the the motherboard selection goes the UD3 vs the UD5/UD7. The UD3 offers plenty of features support crossfire, has esata, usb 3.0, plenty of drive options. Only real reason to get the ud5 or ud7 over the ud3 is if you plan for Trifire/quadfire. Their feature sets are nearly identical otherwise. Considering we are talking about AMD systems here most folks go Amd for budget reasons, so the higher priced boards are not as common.

When I purchased my Ud3 (about a month Bulldozer was released) I researched boards, and narrowed my options down to the Crosshair V, or one of the Gigabyte boards. I went with the UD3, because it supported all the features i wanted and was good bit cheaper than the other boards. Gigabyte really dropped the ball on their Amd motherboards this go around, it took months before I considered them to be past the beta stages. Bios was a major issue with these models out of the gate, and was really complected by releasing new revisions of the board which supported LLC. Left a lot of users with a sour taste in their mouth. Bios has come a long way since then, and the new revision boards do pretty well, but don't let that fool you into thinking they are perfect. After using my UD3 for Two years, if you looking for a AMD motherboard there is only two solutions. Crosshair V Formula Z, or the Sabertooth, Both are from ASUS. Quite simply, the UD3 rev 1.0 board was the most problematic board i've come across since like 2001. I've used well over 100 boards since then if that's telling you something. Granted if my experience had started 6 months ago, it would have been a pretty solid board. Still 1.5 years of ownership before you consider the product to be past beta is a long time to shaft people.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I haven't had any trouble with monitoring temps.
> 
> Like Khaotic said, Open Hardware Monitor works best.
> 
> tmpin 0- System temp
> tmpin-1- Cpu Socket temp (not core temp)
> tmpin-2-Northbridge (per gigabyte) I question this reading, because from my results it scales with cpu vcore, which would point to VRM temp instead rather than the north bridge.
> 
> Core temps listed via hardware monitor are accurate under load. Not so much if your using cool and quiet, will commonly report number below ambient, again this is under idle conditions. Seems like once your actual core temp is around 40c it reports fine.
> 
> as far the the motherboard selection goes the UD3 vs the UD5/UD7. The UD3 offers plenty of features support crossfire, has esata, usb 3.0, plenty of drive options. Only real reason to get the ud5 or ud7 over the ud3 is if you plan for Trifire/quadfire. Their feature sets are nearly identical otherwise. Considering we are talking about AMD systems here most folks go Amd for budget reasons, so the higher priced boards are not as common.
> 
> When I purchased my Ud3 (about a month Bulldozer was released) I researched boards, and narrowed my options down to the Crosshair V, or one of the Gigabyte boards. I went with the UD3, because it supported all the features i wanted and was good bit cheaper than the other boards. Gigabyte really dropped the ball on their Amd motherboards this go around, it took months before I considered them to be past the beta stages. Bios was a major issue with these models out of the gate, and was really complected by releasing new revisions of the board which supported LLC. Left a lot of users with a sour taste in their mouth. Bios has come a long way since then, and the new revision boards do pretty well, but don't let that fool you into thinking they are perfect. After using my UD3 for Two years, if you looking for a AMD motherboard there is only two solutions. Crosshair V Formula Z, or the Sabertooth, Both are from ASUS. Quite simply, the UD3 rev 1.0 board was the most problematic board i've come across since like 2001. I've used well over 100 boards since then if that's telling you something. Granted if my experience had started 6 months ago, it would have been a pretty solid board. Still 1.5 years of ownership before you consider the product to be past beta is a long time to shaft people.


I will have to download that temp tool. There was another concern I had with the ud3 board that showed up after I installed the 8350 and I cannot remember what that was. I had a 4 core phenom 2 before and it was flawless.
I used to hack bios updates (10+ years ago) and liked the dual bios of gigabyte boards... Bought one Asus board in 2006 (my last build lasted me 6.5 years before I replaced it) and even though it was a good board I missed some features I had with gigabyte. Now I feel like I miss the features I see on the crosshair board I skipped out on to get back to gigabyte. Adding to what you said, I think gigabyte is not as good as they were with their high end boards years ago. I do feel cheated but at the same time I would not trade up and I did have the chance when I returned the ud3. I think it may have something to do with the color scheme of my system...  it was really planned but worked out perfect. I really like having dual bios BUT I do not like the current implementation of it. Back in the day I could choose what bios to boot off of. Now the system chooses.
I think once I start to OC I will see first had if I picked the right board or not.

EDIT
Updates...

I really do like OHM
I have 3 screens and while playing games was keeping AMD OD and MSI Afterburner open on one screen at all times.
The big thing I still do see is when I am not doing anything, 4 cores are stuck in turbo mode and cpu volts are at 1.408v. At idle when in Win 7 all cores would run at 1400mhz and one or two cores when pop up to 4ghz with all at very little usage. It really does look like all the cores are either at 1400mhz or 4200mhz, without any steps in between. It's like the power saving features are not working properly.
Well that's what it does on idle. Will post full load details later after I play with it for a bit.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> What are these special features? Anything better for oc?
> The biggest one that I know of is being able to run 3 pcie gfx cards on the ud5 board, and why I bought the ud3 as I don't plan on doing this. I bought the ud5 as they were out of 3s at the time. I thought all bios options features were the same... Ud5 has a better heat sink and pipe on the north bridge etc. Also more sata ports... I use all of them so I do like that...


The largest difference is the slot layout and ability to support tri-fire/SLI. the UD5 and 7 have more onboard RAID ability and the 3. The UD7 also has two form's of digital output(Coaxial and optical). The UD5 and 7 have more SATA ports and the last notable thing I can remeber is the UD7 has button's on the moob to clear the CMOS(has jumper too), Power and Reset.

I'm sure that there are more difference's but those are the major one's. Most people wouldn't use most of them, a few would/do.

EDIT: ohh yea, the heat sink's are different. The UD3 has the smallest/worst, UD5 is a little better and the 7 has the best of the 3. the UD7 also has water block's made for it while the UD3 and 5 have to use universal blocks.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> I really do like OHM
> I have 3 screens and while playing games was keeping AMD OD and MSI Afterburner open on one screen at all times.
> The big thing I still do see is when I am not doing anything, 4 cores are stuck in turbo mode and cpu volts are at 1.408v. At idle when in Win 7 all cores would run at 1400mhz and one or two cores when pop up to 4ghz with all at very little usage. It really does look like all the cores are either at 1400mhz or 4200mhz, without any steps in between. It's like the power saving features are not working properly.
> Well that's what it does on idle. Will post full load details later after I play with it for a bit.


that is actually normal. The cpu will turbo 1-2 cores under light use, well if you have turbo on anyways, the rest will be in their idle state. Amd's turbo is strange more so on the newer FX with turbo core 3.0.

I disabled turbo a long time ago, and just run at 4.945ghz with Cool and Quiet, C1E. I have c6 disabled it caused issues for some reason, and i have memory power saving off as well, it also caused issues. Overall I'm moderately happy with my 8120. Glad I was able to get to a high clock, but it still a bottle neck in some of the single threaded games. The UD3 even rev 1.0 is one of the best overclocking boards you can get for the FX processor. From what i have seen OC wise out of hundreds of systems posted on here, here is the order i would go in.

Asus Crosshair V Formula Z
Asus Crosshair V
Gigabyte UD7- rev 1.1 or higher
Asus Sabertooth Rev 2.0
Gigabyte UD5 rev 1.1 or higher
Gigabyte UD3 rev 1.1 or Higher
Gigabyte UD3 rev 1.0
ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Professional
ASRock 990FX Extreme9
ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0
Asus Sabertooth Rev 1.0
MSI 990FXA-GD80V2

some people would put the Asrock Fatal1ty above the ud3 rev 1.0 but i feel otherwise, Considering what i have achieved with mine.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Updates...
> 
> I really do like OHM
> I have 3 screens and while playing games was keeping AMD OD and MSI Afterburner open on one screen at all times.
> The big thing I still do see is when I am not doing anything, 4 cores are stuck in turbo mode and cpu volts are at 1.408v. At idle when in Win 7 all cores would run at 1400mhz and one or two cores when pop up to 4ghz with all at very little usage. It really does look like all the cores are either at 1400mhz or 4200mhz, without any steps in between. It's like the power saving features are not working properly.
> Well that's what it does on idle. Will post full load details later after I play with it for a bit.


Here is what OHM is telling me...
Key note I am questioning is OK, are the CPU VCore Volts and why I think its getting so HOT. It appears after it hits 70c, it learns it doesn't need to use all the volts, and drops and then tops out at 1.472v and stays around 55c to 61c, but stays 100% load.

Sensors

|
+- Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 (/mainboard)
| |
| +- ITE IT8720F (/lpc/it8720f)
| | +- CPU VCore : 1.536 0.864 1.536 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/0)
| | +- DRAM : 1.472 1.472 1.488 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/1)
| | +- +3.3V : 3.168 3.152 3.248 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/2)
| | +- +5V : 4.9728 4.94592 5.05344 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/3)
| | +- Voltage #5 : 2.992 2.976 3.024 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/4)
| | +- Voltage #6 : 1.472 0.016 1.488 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/5)
| | +- Voltage #7 : 4.08 4.08 4.08 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/6)
| | +- Voltage #8 : 2.144 2.144 2.144 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/7)
| | +- VBat : 3.088 3.088 3.088 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/8)
| | +- System Temp : 40 30 41 (/lpc/it8720f/temperature/0)
| | +- AM3 Socket Temp : 50 23 51 (/lpc/it8720f/temperature/1)
| | +- Northbridge Temp : 77 17 77 (/lpc/it8720f/temperature/2)
| | +- Fan #1 : 1638.35 1614.83 1670.79 (/lpc/it8720f/fan/0)
|
+- AMD FX-8350 (/amdcpu/0)
| +- Bus Speed : 200.994 200.978 201.009 (/amdcpu/0/clock/0)
| +- CPU Core #1 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.9 (/amdcpu/0/clock/1)
| +- CPU Core #2 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.88 (/amdcpu/0/clock/2)
| +- CPU Core #3 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/3)
| +- CPU Core #4 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.88 (/amdcpu/0/clock/4)
| +- CPU Core #5 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/5)
| +- CPU Core #6 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/6)
| +- CPU Core #7 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/7)
| +- CPU Core #8 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/8)
| +- Core #1 - #8 : 68.25 7.875 70.90 (/amdcpu/0/temperature/0)
| +- CPU Total : 100 0.171232 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/0)
| +- CPU Core #1 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/1)
| +- CPU Core #2 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/2)
| +- CPU Core #3 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/3)
| +- CPU Core #4 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/4)
| +- CPU Core #5 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/5)
| +- CPU Core #6 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/6)
| +- CPU Core #7 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/7)
| +- CPU Core #8 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/8)
|
+- (/ram)
| +- Memory : 10.3225 6.08266 11.7301 (/ram/load/0)
| +- Used Memory : 3.29482 1.94151 3.7441 (/ram/data/0)
| +- Available Memory : 28.6239 28.1747 29.9773 (/ram/data/1)
|
+- 7870-0 (/atigpu/0)
| +- GPU Core : 1.219 0.9 1.219 (/atigpu/0/voltage/0)
| +- GPU Core : 1100 300 1100 (/atigpu/0/clock/0)
| +- GPU Memory : 1200 1200 1200 (/atigpu/0/clock/1)
| +- GPU Core : 75 38 80 (/atigpu/0/temperature/0)
| +- GPU Core : 66 0 76 (/atigpu/0/load/0)
| +- GPU Fan : 2307 1105 3173 (/atigpu/0/fan/0)
| +- GPU Fan : 50 30 70 (/atigpu/0/control/0)
|
+- 7870-1 (/atigpu/6)
| +- GPU Core : 1.219 0.9 1.219 (/atigpu/6/voltage/0)
| +- GPU Core : 1100 150 1100 (/atigpu/6/clock/0)
| +- GPU Memory : 1200 150 1200 (/atigpu/6/clock/1)
| +- GPU Core : 54 0 60 (/atigpu/6/temperature/0)
| +- GPU Core : 65 0 99 (/atigpu/6/load/0)
| +- GPU Fan : 1212 168 1349 (/atigpu/6/fan/0)
| +- GPU Fan : 39 20 41 (/atigpu/6/control/0)


----------



## EyeCU247

EDIT
Posted Twice, and remove the nonsense...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Here is what OHM is telling me...
> Key note I am questioning is OK, are the CPU VCore Volts and why I think its getting so HOT. It appears after it hits 70c, it learns it doesn't need to use all the volts, and drops and then tops out at 1.472v and stays around 55c to 61c, but stays 100% load.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Sensors
> 
> |
> +- Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 (/mainboard)
> | |
> | +- ITE IT8720F (/lpc/it8720f)
> | | +- CPU VCore : 1.536 0.864 1.536 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/0)
> | | +- DRAM : 1.472 1.472 1.488 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/1)
> | | +- +3.3V : 3.168 3.152 3.248 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/2)
> | | +- +5V : 4.9728 4.94592 5.05344 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/3)
> | | +- Voltage #5 : 2.992 2.976 3.024 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/4)
> | | +- Voltage #6 : 1.472 0.016 1.488 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/5)
> | | +- Voltage #7 : 4.08 4.08 4.08 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/6)
> | | +- Voltage #8 : 2.144 2.144 2.144 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/7)
> | | +- VBat : 3.088 3.088 3.088 (/lpc/it8720f/voltage/8)
> | | +- System Temp : 40 30 41 (/lpc/it8720f/temperature/0)
> | | +- AM3 Socket Temp : 50 23 51 (/lpc/it8720f/temperature/1)
> | | +- Northbridge Temp : 77 17 77 (/lpc/it8720f/temperature/2)
> | | +- Fan #1 : 1638.35 1614.83 1670.79 (/lpc/it8720f/fan/0)
> |
> +- AMD FX-8350 (/amdcpu/0)
> | +- Bus Speed : 200.994 200.978 201.009 (/amdcpu/0/clock/0)
> | +- CPU Core #1 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.9 (/amdcpu/0/clock/1)
> | +- CPU Core #2 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.88 (/amdcpu/0/clock/2)
> | +- CPU Core #3 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/3)
> | +- CPU Core #4 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.88 (/amdcpu/0/clock/4)
> | +- CPU Core #5 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/5)
> | +- CPU Core #6 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/6)
> | +- CPU Core #7 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/7)
> | +- CPU Core #8 : 4120.37 1406.95 4220.87 (/amdcpu/0/clock/8)
> | +- Core #1 - #8 : 68.25 7.875 70.90 (/amdcpu/0/temperature/0)
> | +- CPU Total : 100 0.171232 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/0)
> | +- CPU Core #1 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/1)
> | +- CPU Core #2 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/2)
> | +- CPU Core #3 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/3)
> | +- CPU Core #4 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/4)
> | +- CPU Core #5 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/5)
> | +- CPU Core #6 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/6)
> | +- CPU Core #7 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/7)
> | +- CPU Core #8 : 100 0 100 (/amdcpu/0/load/8)
> |
> +- (/ram)
> | +- Memory : 10.3225 6.08266 11.7301 (/ram/load/0)
> | +- Used Memory : 3.29482 1.94151 3.7441 (/ram/data/0)
> | +- Available Memory : 28.6239 28.1747 29.9773 (/ram/data/1)
> |
> +- 7870-0 (/atigpu/0)
> | +- GPU Core : 1.219 0.9 1.219 (/atigpu/0/voltage/0)
> | +- GPU Core : 1100 300 1100 (/atigpu/0/clock/0)
> | +- GPU Memory : 1200 1200 1200 (/atigpu/0/clock/1)
> | +- GPU Core : 75 38 80 (/atigpu/0/temperature/0)
> | +- GPU Core : 66 0 76 (/atigpu/0/load/0)
> | +- GPU Fan : 2307 1105 3173 (/atigpu/0/fan/0)
> | +- GPU Fan : 50 30 70 (/atigpu/0/control/0)
> |
> +- 7870-1 (/atigpu/6)
> | +- GPU Core : 1.219 0.9 1.219 (/atigpu/6/voltage/0)
> | +- GPU Core : 1100 150 1100 (/atigpu/6/clock/0)
> | +- GPU Memory : 1200 150 1200 (/atigpu/6/clock/1)
> | +- GPU Core : 54 0 60 (/atigpu/6/temperature/0)
> | +- GPU Core : 65 0 99 (/atigpu/6/load/0)
> | +- GPU Fan : 1212 168 1349 (/atigpu/6/fan/0)
> | +- GPU Fan : 39 20 41 (/atigpu/6/control/0)


ouch..... Hurt my head when I tried to read, just post a snip of OHM


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> ouch..... Hurt my head when I tried to read, just post a snip of OHM


Yeah sorry about that... I was adding comments to the first pic when I saw your post...


----------



## itomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I haven't had any trouble with monitoring temps.
> 
> Like Khaotic said, Open Hardware Monitor works best.
> 
> tmpin 0- System temp
> tmpin-1- Cpu Socket temp (not core temp)
> tmpin-2-Northbridge (per gigabyte) I question this reading, because from my results it scales with cpu vcore, which would point to VRM temp instead rather than the north bridge.
> 
> Core temps listed via hardware monitor are accurate under load. Not so much if your using cool and quiet, will commonly report number below ambient, again this is under idle conditions. Seems like once your actual core temp is around 40c it reports fine.
> 
> as far the the motherboard selection goes the UD3 vs the UD5/UD7. The UD3 offers plenty of features support crossfire, has esata, usb 3.0, plenty of drive options. Only real reason to get the ud5 or ud7 over the ud3 is if you plan for Trifire/quadfire. Their feature sets are nearly identical otherwise. Considering we are talking about AMD systems here most folks go Amd for budget reasons, so the higher priced boards are not as common.
> 
> When I purchased my Ud3 (about a month Bulldozer was released) I researched boards, and narrowed my options down to the Crosshair V, or one of the Gigabyte boards. I went with the UD3, because it supported all the features i wanted and was good bit cheaper than the other boards. Gigabyte really dropped the ball on their Amd motherboards this go around, it took months before I considered them to be past the beta stages. Bios was a major issue with these models out of the gate, and was really complected by releasing new revisions of the board which supported LLC. Left a lot of users with a sour taste in their mouth. Bios has come a long way since then, and the new revision boards do pretty well, but don't let that fool you into thinking they are perfect. After using my UD3 for Two years, if you looking for a AMD motherboard there is only two solutions. Crosshair V Formula Z, or the Sabertooth, Both are from ASUS. Quite simply, the UD3 rev 1.0 board was the most problematic board i've come across since like 2001. I've used well over 100 boards since then if that's telling you something. Granted if my experience had started 6 months ago, it would have been a pretty solid board. Still 1.5 years of ownership before you consider the product to be past beta is a long time to shaft people.


TMPIN - 1 is to low for CPU socket temp. CPU socket temp is higher then cores temps so it can only be TMPIN - 2 value.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> TMPIN - 1 is to low for CPU socket temp. CPU socket temp is higher then cores temps so it can only be TMPIN - 2 value.


Per gigabyte

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=7075.0

TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp

its been debated to death, please stop confusing people.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Yeah sorry about that... I was adding comments to the first pic when I saw your post...


I would have a hard time believing that those are the real temps. do you have any of Gigabyte's temp monitor programs installed? if so remove them.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> I would have a hard time believing that those are the real temps. do you have any of Gigabyte's temp monitor programs installed? if so remove them.


Nope. Only AMD OD and MSI Afterburner.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Nope. Only AMD OD and MSI Afterburner.


Weird, What is your ambiant temp?

Some of those temps are way off.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Weird, What is your ambiant temp?
> 
> Some of those temps are way off.


The basement is usually around 21c to 24c.


----------



## punk2k6

I am using the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 3.0) motherboard. whats up with the cpuz showing the Manufacturer AMD Corporation ? Do I need the latest bios which is version FB.


----------



## Fordox

wow the first rev 3.0 i've seen.

don't worry about the name, it is just how it works. How is the UEFI? and your voltage is a bit high imo.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> The basement is usually around 21c to 24c.


Well since I last posted, I changed LLC to Medium and my volts on the CPU stay below 1.472 (so far) while folding. This is also keeping my CPU temps a lot lower.
I didn't have these problems in Win 7. I am starting to believe Win 8 handles the cores/power saving features differently and has more of a ON/OFF setup than a conservative ramp up. BUT I would assume that could be fixed in a driver or BIOS update.

100%CPU load while folding (also two 7870s in the folding mix)
LLC = Medium
Currently my CPU vCore is at 1.424 v
Core Temp is 39.8c with an ambient temp of 22.5c

that's a far cry from what I was dealing with.









Something strange I also noticed, is that there is a 6 min window where the temp goes up and a 6 min window where the temp is low again. Also the Northbridge is almost always 9c higher then the CPU temp. This cycle seems to repeat itself, and so far has 4 times.



EDIT
Another thing to note, is my Watt usage was 505, and now at 425 Watts


----------



## Ghostman1911

The only way for me to keep the voltage below 1.472 is with LLC Extreme, any other option make the voltage jump to 1,52.......


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostman1911*
> 
> The only way for me to keep the voltage below 1.472 is with LLC Extreme, any other option make the voltage jump to 1,52.......


Are you OCing?
I am not currently running OCed, and wounder if that is causing the system to push such high volts with an Extreme LLC? Also if your current setup is the one in your signature, than you have a UD3 board, and (didn't mention your Rev #).
I wounder if that has anything to do with the discrepancy.


----------



## Ghostman1911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Are you OCing?
> I am not currently running OCed, and wounder if that is causing the system to push such high volts with an Extreme LLC? Also if your current setup is the one in your signature, than you have a UD3 board, and (didn't mention your Rev #).
> I wounder if that has anything to do with the discrepancy.


My 8120 is oc'ed to 4.5 with vcore to 1.4, LLC Extreme, in full load voltage goes to 1.472, if i set any other option the voltage jumps to 1.52.

My UD3 is revision 1.1 Bios F9.


----------



## stalinizator

Hi!
This question was asked already in this thread but i didnt manage to find an answer. Is there a theoretical chance of getting UEFI on non rev. 3.0 990FXA-UD3 motherboard. Like is it technically possible and its only up to Gigabyte to provide or not provide us with UEFI update for older boards? For i saw they were giving an UEFI update for hybrid-efi Intel board. So i'm very curious about trying UEFI, as i've never seen it







on the other hand i do not want to buy similar board just to check out what UEFI is.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostman1911*
> 
> My 8120 is oc'ed to 4.5 with vcore to 1.4, LLC Extreme, in full load voltage goes to 1.472, if i set any other option the voltage jumps to 1.52.
> 
> My UD3 is revision 1.1 Bios F9.


same thing happens to me, same board, same revision and bios.


----------



## firagabird

Hi guys. I'm a very recent new addition to your club, having procured for myself a UD3 (R3.0) just yesterday. Unfortunately, I seem to be experiencing some (horribly congested) birthing problems regarding my overclocking experiences with it.

Let me point out my build first (though you can check my sig out, too):
CPU - Phenom II X2 555 BE
GPU - Powercolor HD 7770 GHz Edition
RAM - Kingston 2x4GB 1333MHz
PSU - FSP Hexa 500W
Case - Thermaltake V4 Black Edition

I actually documented my eperiences in another thread which I started because of concerns of my previous mobo being a bottleneck factor to OCing, but the summary is this: in my old Asus M4N68T-M v2, I could push my humble 555 BE to 4.0GHz at 1.58V stable, and with a 4-core unlock it could go 3.9GHz at 1.63V (although at this level, the board's VRM throttling would kick in, but the point is it was achievable).

With my new UD3, though, I can't even get 4-core unlock to be stable even at stock clocks (even if I pushed the volts up to +200mV). Without unlocking, I need a +250mV boost (or 1.68V) to achieve 4.1GHz; unlocking the third core allows me only a 3.8GHz OC, but I need +300mV/1.73V for stability. Any less voltage or more overclocking leads to either a BSOD (w/out unlocking) or screen freeze (3-core unlock). Using the new FB bios completely cripples the unlocking functionality, too; everything locks at 2.5GHz and 1.344V regardless of 3- or 4-core unlock.

There are other quirks, too, like the RAM frequency unable to OC its clock when OCing the CPU (I tried working around it by lowering the latency) and the LLC option being a dud (always at +100% regardless of setting). Overall, my experience with this board has been pretty anticlimactic. I just expected more from it than what I'm currently experiencing. I really hope I don't have to get it replaced, or worse, return my old but trusty M4N68T-M. Can anyone help guide me to the root cause of my problem?


----------



## Scorpion49

I figure I will post here as well, I have a new 990FXA-UD3 I picked up tonight paired with an FX 8320. I can not seem to find a way to set it up so that the CPU doesn't throttle to 2900mhz/14.5x multi under even the lightest load. My board is a Rev 3.0 and I updated to the newest FB BIOS to try and help, but nothing seems to change it. I read about AOD being able to help this issue but I am unable to find any settings in there that do anything at all really.

Pretty disappointed, the CPU won't even run at stock speeds properly. I did not have this issue with the last AMD setup I had, which was a CHV and FX 8150.


----------



## sdlvx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I figure I will post here as well, I have a new 990FXA-UD3 I picked up tonight paired with an FX 8320. I can not seem to find a way to set it up so that the CPU doesn't throttle to 2900mhz/14.5x multi under even the lightest load. My board is a Rev 3.0 and I updated to the newest FB BIOS to try and help, but nothing seems to change it. I read about AOD being able to help this issue but I am unable to find any settings in there that do anything at all really.
> 
> Pretty disappointed, the CPU won't even run at stock speeds properly. I did not have this issue with the last AMD setup I had, which was a CHV and FX 8150.


Did you disable thermal throttling in the PC Health section of BIOS? Sorry I have UD5 with oldschool BIOS and not the UEFI like you have so it's a little different.

And did you disable all the power saving options? Piledriver I think has more aggressive power saving options that Bulldozer, which is why that is dropping.

There is Cool and Quiet, C6, C1E, and the hidden motherboard throttling thing in PC Health (the part where it tells you all the system temps and voltages).

Welcome to the AMD team, btw.


----------



## krajlevic

Do you touch anything in the BIOS ?
If I were you, I'll try a "Load default settings" in the BIOS or UEFI if it's still exists...(old school either!).

As above, I'll check all the settings concerning the cpu and energy saving, LLC on auto, Multi as auto, Cool'n'quiet as auto


----------



## Scorpion49

I figured it out, in this revision neither available BIOS has an option to disable APM. I guess I'll have to email gigabyte and see if there is another BIOS in the works, although I may just return it and get something else because they don't seem to answer their support emails. I have had a question in on a 680 of theirs for 3 weeks with no response.


----------



## krajlevic

I used to "work" on the Gigabyte french forum, it's the better way to have answers quick and reliable.
Also go check the Gigabyte forum if someone have this issue.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krajlevic*
> 
> I used to "work" on the Gigabyte french forum, it's the better way to have answers quick and reliable.
> Also go check the Gigabyte forum if someone have this issue.


I'm thinking on just returning the whole AMD setup and getting an i3 or something. I can't play HD video, can't get sound out of my wireless headphones, and I can't get the CPU to run at stock frequencies without throttling. Those first two I just found out about 10 seconds ago when I tried to play a youtube video and watched it stutter along at 1 frame per minute or so. My disappointment deepens, I'm very underwhelmed considering I thought the FX 8150 was pretty decent.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I'm thinking on just returning the whole AMD setup and getting an i3 or something. I can't play HD video, can't get sound out of my wireless headphones, and I can't get the CPU to run at stock frequencies without throttling. Those first two I just found out about 10 seconds ago when I tried to play a youtube video and watched it stutter along at 1 frame per minute or so. My disappointment deepens, I'm very underwhelmed considering I thought the FX 8150 was pretty decent.


I think all of those issues point to other things than the processor... A new, working-mobo would make your life a happy place.


----------



## w-moffatt

hey guys so scored my self an fx-8350 as a freebie for my rev 1. 990fx-ud7 board. Great work on posting the links to bios updates on the first page. Just want to make sure that the ud7 chipset drivers listed on the website ( release date 24/10/2012) are the latest and support the fx-8350? Just thought id ask as it saves me pulling apart my case again . Cheers


----------



## punk2k6

I have the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0 motherboard im trying to overclock I cant seem to change the vcore voltage in the UEFI bios ?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *punk2k6*
> 
> I have the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0 motherboard im trying to overclock I cant seem to change the vcore voltage in the UEFI bios ?


Hit "page down" until you get past auto, normal, etc. Once it hits a number (mine is -0.800) you can then type in the numbers you want.


----------



## Scorpion49

Well I got on the phone with Gigabyte about the CPU throttling and was basically told to pound sand. "Nothing we can do, you can try and email HQ to see if they will look at the BIOS". This is my last Gigabyte board for sure, I'm going to return it and get something else.


----------



## krajlevic

Ok so which revision and which BIOS update do you apply ?

Is this your first assembling rig? Do you check all the power cables, do you install the catalyst which includes SATA, USB, Chipset drivers ?

We don't have much details here unless you seem disappointed, 8 years of combos Gigabyte+AMD (dozen computer assembled for me or friends) never had an issue, never RMA'd those stuff.


----------



## punk2k6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krajlevic*
> 
> Ok so which revision and which BIOS update do you apply ?
> 
> Is this your first assembling rig? Do you check all the power cables, do you install the catalyst which includes SATA, USB, Chipset drivers ?
> 
> We don't have much details here unless you seem disappointed, 8 years of combos Gigabyte+AMD (dozen computer assembled for me or friends) never had an issue, never RMA'd those stuff.


Scorpion49 has the same motherboard as mines Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 3.0 Bios FB


----------



## w-moffatt

hey guys so i have F10 bios version on my rev 1.0 990fx-UD7 board, is this the correct bios version to run the new FX-83XX series CPU's? just want to double check before i pull my pc apart again! Cheers









P.S. Post #400 WOOOO


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *w-moffatt*
> 
> hey guys so i have F10 bios version on my rev 1.0 990fx-UD7 board, is this the correct bios version to run the new FX-83XX series CPU's? just want to double check before i pull my pc apart again! Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Post #400 WOOOO


\

Looks like it,

990FXA-UD7


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krajlevic*
> 
> Ok so which revision and which BIOS update do you apply ?
> 
> Is this your first assembling rig? Do you check all the power cables, do you install the catalyst which includes SATA, USB, Chipset drivers ?
> 
> We don't have much details here unless you seem disappointed, 8 years of combos Gigabyte+AMD (dozen computer assembled for me or friends) never had an issue, never RMA'd those stuff.


This is the 6th rig I've assembled this year (and its only February). I know what I'm doing, and I apparently know more about the problem and its solution than Gigabyte tech support does so its like talking to a brick wall. All I wanted to know is if they had a beta BIOS that might fix it that wasn't on the website.

I'm about to go back to the store and see if they have a Rev 1.x, if they don't I'm getting an Asus Sabertooth because I'm not going to wait for Gigabyte to get around to fixing it.

I can confirm that the "workaround" of using AOD to disable turbo from in the OS fixes the throttling, but it would have to be done each time the machine boots up which is really annoying.

Also, I've fixed the sound stutter/wireless headset issue. Even though the plug is for USB 3.0 on the wireless adapter, it needs to be plugged in to USB 2.0 on this board or it will cause that problem. This has not been the case for any of the 30-odd boards I have used this headset with, but whatever.


----------



## krajlevic

No signs of this problem on the french forum.
I'll try an exchange if all others things are checked.

You'll think I mock you but resetting the BIOS by default is a "miracle situation" in most of the case of "unrecognized processor" or bad recognization. Hard reset unplugging power chord emptying condos...


----------



## noogai93

So, i'm having an issue.

I have upgraded my 990fxa ud5 to f11 bios and i also upgraded to an fx 8350.

The problem is my ram will not run at 1600mhz it seems to be stuck at 1333. This was not a problem before any of the
upgrades as i could just set the clock to 8x and off it goes at 1600.

But it will not do that now, it just boots and says an error at post due to overclocking.

Anyone have a clue here ?

I believe i was running either f5a or f6 bios with a athlon 2 640 before the upgrade

My Specs are:
gigabyte 990fxa-ud5 rev1
amd fx 8350
16gb corsair vengeance LP (10-10-10-27)
gtx 670
2 samsung ssds


----------



## Loosenut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noogai93*
> 
> So, i'm having an issue.
> 
> I have upgraded my 990fxa ud5 to f11 bios and i also upgraded to an fx 8350.
> 
> The problem is my ram will not run at 1600mhz it seems to be stuck at 1333. This was not a problem before any of the
> upgrades as i could just set the clock to 8x and off it goes at 1600.
> 
> But it will not do that now, it just boots and says an error at post due to overclocking.
> 
> Anyone have a clue here ?
> 
> I believe i was running either f5a or f6 bios with a athlon 2 640 before the upgrade
> 
> My Specs are:
> gigabyte 990fxa-ud5 rev1
> amd fx 8350
> 16gb corsair vengeance LP (10-10-10-27)
> gtx 670
> 2 samsung ssds


I was having that issue as well, I have been running my memory in EOCP mode. it will reset your oc so you will obviously have to redo all that but it sets the memory timings, speeds and volt.
it automatically set my mem volt to 1.505 so that it *no longer dips* to 1.48 causing instability

on f11 bios


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krajlevic*
> 
> No signs of this problem on the french forum.
> I'll try an exchange if all others things are checked.
> 
> You'll think I mock you but resetting the BIOS by default is a "miracle situation" in most of the case of "unrecognized processor" or bad recognization. Hard reset unplugging power chord emptying condos...


No amount of BIOS resetting will add options they didn't include, unfortunately. I went and picked up the 990FX Sabertooth R2.0, guess what it has APM settings. I've already got my processor stable at 5.0ghz overnight. Oh well, I guess the gigabyte board will go back.

You can see here what I was talking about on mine:


And here is punk2k6 screenshot he sent me via PM showing his Rev 3.0 doing the same thing:


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Seems that the 990FX-UD boards have tons of issue's with BD chips... Wounder why.


----------



## noogai93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> I was having that issue as well, I have been running my memory in EOCP mode. it will reset your oc so you will obviously have to redo all that but it sets the memory timings, speeds and volt.
> it automatically set my mem volt to 1.505 so that it *no longer dips* to 1.48 causing instability
> 
> on f11 bios


I've just tried using EOCP it sets my voltage to 1.605 and the timing are quite loose at 11-11-11-29 currently running a prime95 with all my ram
to see if its stable.

I presume your 1.505v is a typo or is that what yours is actually set at ?

UPDATE:
*** Prime95 crashed at 1.605 i upped voltage to 1.650 and i had a worker fail in p95
*** i cannot get it to be stable at 1600


----------



## sdlvx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Seems that the 990FX-UD boards have tons of issue's with BD chips... Wounder why.


Because Gigabyte is too busy making UEFI look pretty instead of adding features. I am happy with my UD5 rev 1.1, but I think if I had a UEFI Giga I'd be pretty pissed off. I really hope this isn't Gigabyte turning UD3 into a more low end board by arbitrarily removing features in software and they just haven't gotten around to adding features yet. The hardware is good but this UEFI throttling going on with no way to stop it is completely unacceptable in an enthusiast class board.

It is a shame. I was recommending UD3 to people because I've been happy with UD5, but if UD3 is going to pull this I'm not recommending it to anyone.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sdlvx*
> 
> Because Gigabyte is too busy making UEFI look pretty instead of adding features. I am happy with my UD5 rev 1.1, but I think if I had a UEFI Giga I'd be pretty pissed off. I really hope this isn't Gigabyte turning UD3 into a more low end board by arbitrarily removing features in software and they just haven't gotten around to adding features yet. The hardware is good but this UEFI throttling going on with no way to stop it is completely unacceptable in an enthusiast class board.
> 
> It is a shame. I was recommending UD3 to people because I've been happy with UD5, but if UD3 is going to pull this I'm not recommending it to anyone.


I understand that. With my UD3 (version 1.0, no LLC) I have had nothing but a perfect experience so far. There was one problem I had with the temp sensor's reading funny in Hardware Monitor but it was an easy fix, just used Open Hardware Monitor. Other than that its overclocked great and rock solid stable. Been pushing my 955BE to 4.0Ghz/28000Mhz CPU-NB with only 1.45Vcore(1.44v after droop)/1.35CPU-NB for over a year now. *knock on wood*.....

However you guys with newer versions and BD chips seem to have been shafted.


----------



## Loosenut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noogai93*
> 
> I've just tried using EOCP it sets my voltage to 1.605 and the timing are quite loose at 11-11-11-29 currently running a prime95 with all my ram
> to see if its stable.
> 
> I presume your 1.505v is a typo or is that what yours is actually set at ?
> 
> UPDATE:
> *** Prime95 crashed at 1.605 i upped voltage to 1.650 and i had a worker fail in p95
> *** i cannot get it to be stable at 1600


no typo, it sets it to that, but when I check my volts it reads 1.5 instead of 1.48 in both bios health page and in all my software meters. things have been better since I have just left it like that. now if I go into eocp and set my ram to the 1600 it will set my volt to 1.6v. I should've been more specific in what I said, I meant go into eocp and set it to the profile1. the way i understood it and was told when I asked that it is similar to the intel xmp setting.


----------



## noogai93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> no typo, it sets it to that, but when I check my volts it reads 1.5 instead of 1.48 in both bios health page and in all my software meters. things have been better since I have just left it like that. now if I go into eocp and set my ram to the 1600 it will set my volt to 1.6v. I should've been more specific in what I said, I meant go into eocp and set it to the profile1. the way i understood it and was told when I asked that it is similar to the intel xmp setting.


Thank you, It works now, this is defiantly easier then trying to find stable settings.

I have a question for you, are you running stock clocks on ram ? or have you OC'd it ?


----------



## Loosenut

I'm running stock clocks and timings, I dont have much luck on OC ram. just dont understand when to start messing with the timings


----------



## noogai93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> no typo, it sets it to that, but when I check my volts it reads 1.5 instead of 1.48 in both bios health page and in all my software meters. things have been better since I have just left it like that. now if I go into eocp and set my ram to the 1600 it will set my volt to 1.6v. I should've been more specific in what I said, I meant go into eocp and set it to the profile1. the way i understood it and was told when I asked that it is similar to the intel xmp setting.


i just ran a prime95 on EOCP profile 1 and i got a worker crash, i also had a lockup in game.

cpuid hardware monitor says voltage is 1.488

i don't think im having much luck


----------



## amd-dude

Hey guys I've been away from the OC game a few months now. I have the GA-990FXA-UD5 and I was just wondering which BIOS now is the best for OCing. I am currently running the F7 BIOS if i'm not mistaken. I have visited the GB website and saw that they are up to F12 or something like that. Should I flash to the new versions or did they bring along more problems?


----------



## BramSLI1

Just a couple of pics of my new build. Most of the parts are the same except for the case and the water cooling system. Let me know what you guys think and sorry I haven't been on here in a while. My new job and school take up a lot of my time. I'm currently working as part of Swiftech's Customer Support Team so if you guys have any questions about their products just give me a PM.


----------



## InsideJob

Hey guys, I got my 990fxa-ud3 rev 3 yesterday for my 960T in hopes to unlock the 2 cores I have verified are in the chip.
I've tried everything to unlock those cores on this board with no luck. Am I missing something? I'm on the FA bios that it came installed with out of the box, I'm thinking maybe I need an older bios?
I know the cores are there as I've successfully unlocked each core individually on my old roommates Asus M4a88m.
I'm hoping I didn't buy this board for no reason (besides great looks)


----------



## Loosenut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-dude*
> 
> Hey guys I've been away from the OC game a few months now. I have the GA-990FXA-UD5 and I was just wondering which BIOS now is the best for OCing. I am currently running the F7 BIOS if i'm not mistaken. I have visited the GB website and saw that they are up to F12 or something like that. Should I flash to the new versions or did they bring along more problems?


imo, the f11 is a great version to be on. f12a is a beta bios. I personally run the f11 on my 24/7 oc of 4.6 on air on my rev 1.1 board


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Hey guys, I got my 990fxa-ud3 rev 3 yesterday for my 960T in hopes to unlock the 2 cores I have verified are in the chip.
> I've tried everything to unlock those cores on this board with no luck. Am I missing something? I'm on the FA bios that it came installed with out of the box, I'm thinking maybe I need an older bios?
> I know the cores are there as I've successfully unlocked each core individually on my old roommates Asus M4a88m.
> I'm hoping I didn't buy this board for no reason (besides great looks)


There are no older BIOS for the Rev 3.0, you can try the newer FB BIOS, but good luck. I returned mine because the BIOS is really missing a lot of options.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> There are no older BIOS for the Rev 3.0, you can try the newer FB BIOS, but good luck. I returned mine because the BIOS is really missing a lot of options.


I got mine in a combo deal with an FX 8150 that went to a friend's cousin. I don't know how the return policy would go in such a case as the 8150 wouldn't be returned if I chose to do so.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I got mine in a combo deal with an FX 8150 that went to a friend's cousin. I don't know how the return policy would go in such a case as the 8150 wouldn't be returned if I chose to do so.


Try the FB BIOS, it was pretty easy to update when I did mine.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Try the FB BIOS, it was pretty easy to update when I did mine.


Update was easy peasy...
No luck though








Tried setting core unlock to enabled, save and restart = bios screen flashes then a blank screen that just says gigabyte dual uefi bios at the top then system restarts and continues process until I shut down and clear cmos
Set core unlock to enabled, disabled C1E & C&Q, save and reset = same as above
" ", boost CPU vcore by +0.150 (1.470 approx), save and reset = " "
" ", boost CPU vcore by +0.200 (1.520 approx), save and reset = " "
" ", " ", disable C1E & C&Q, save & reset = " "

I am disappointed. I know the cores are there in my chip as stated, I've activated them on another board...


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Update was easy peasy...
> No luck though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried setting core unlock to enabled, save and restart = bios screen flashes then a blank screen that just says gigabyte dual uefi bios at the top then system restarts and continues process until I shut down and clear cmos
> Set core unlock to enabled, disabled C1E & C&Q, save and reset = same as above
> " ", boost CPU vcore by +0.150 (1.470 approx), save and reset = " "
> " ", boost CPU vcore by +0.200 (1.520 approx), save and reset = " "
> " ", " ", disable C1E & C&Q, save & reset = " "
> 
> I am disappointed. I know the cores are there in my chip as stated, I've activated them on another board...


The new UEFI in the Rev 3.0 is simply not up to the task, I bet it would work with an older revision 1.x board as I know the hardware is capable of it.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> The new UEFI in the Rev 3.0 is simply not up to the task, I bet it would work with an older revision 1.x board as I know the hardware is capable of it.


Bummer, ah well... I forcast Intel in my future a bit nearer then I had expected








Was hoping to get those 2 cores out of the chip with this board and give me some more headroom with my CPU bottleneck on my 7970. Games like Arma want more CPU power. i5 here I come


----------



## MadGoat

that sucks,

sorry the 3.x boards suck so bad for you guys... it really seems like gigabyte has dropped the ball here. I mean they are WAY late to the Uefi party as it is, you'd think they wouldnt screw around eh?

i hope you both find a board that fits your needs.


----------



## noogai93

I'm having a problem getting my ram to run at stock clocks (1600) on my UD5, it is Low Profile Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3.

I've tried many thing to get it to work with no avail, loosenut suggested i try EOCP which did not work for me on any settings, was getting crashes and lockups.

I've tried bumping up the voltage tweaking the timings but nothing seems to work.

anyone have an idea ?


----------



## InsideJob

When I move to intel the Gigabyte Sniper series is my first stop


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> that sucks,
> 
> sorry the 3.x boards suck so bad for you guys... it really seems like gigabyte has dropped the ball here. I mean they are WAY late to the Uefi party as it is, you'd think they wouldnt screw around eh?
> 
> i hope you both find a board that fits your needs.


I ended up with the Asus Sabertooth R2.0, and its a good board. Not as good looking as the Gigabyte though. I really liked that board, I just wish the BIOS wasn't like that. The old style with functionality would have been better than UEFI that don't work


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noogai93*
> 
> I'm having a problem getting my ram to run at stock clocks (1600) on my UD5, it is Low Profile Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3.
> 
> I've tried many thing to get it to work with no avail, loosenut suggested i try EOCP which did not work for me on any settings, was getting crashes and lockups.
> 
> I've tried bumping up the voltage tweaking the timings but nothing seems to work.
> 
> anyone have an idea ?


I also have issues on my ud3 board with getting RAM anywhere near rated frequency. They are 2000mhz sticks so I wasn't expecting full frequency on my AMD setup however I cannot get the system to post or be stable unless they are stuck at 1066 which the bios had set it to automatically. I've loosened timings and bumped the voltage also with no luck. Gigabyte has really messed up their latest rounds of bios releases it seems


----------



## electech13

Just purchased my 8350 last week and also got a ga-990fxa-ud3 board. I know the only difference from ud3/5/7 are 2/3/4 vid card sli or cf capabilities and extra heatsinks/heat pipes on the north/south bridges..only 1 video card here so the ud3 was fine. I definitely wanted 4.5GHz oc and hopefully up to 5. Using Corsair H100 water cooler.
I was able to get to 4.5GHz fairly easily and 4.6/4.7 with some work but the voltages are higher then they should be and fluctuate too much...I'm easily under 50 degrees c at load so temps are fine even with volts going over 1.51..

well as seen on various posts about recommending LLC to be at high or highest levels if available I had mine at extreme and thus the reason the voltage was so elevated but I didn't expect it to make that much of a difference. Even still it easily kept under 50 degrees even when pushing 1.55v at 4.5GHz-4.85GHz.. I have since tried lower LLC levels and the voltages are much lower and temps are even cooler although that wasn't a problem anyways (yet). but shouldn't LLC be at higher levels if you have the option and want a stable (higher) oc?
And outside of that, the heavily fluctuating clock speeds and voltages are what is puzzling me. Regardless of low or high LLC setting. Low or high or auto voltages and ALL of the speed/control bios features are OFF (C&Q, CE1, C6, etc, etc) yet when under full LOAD the multiplier keeps dropping thus changing the clock from whatever oc I'm at 4.5, 4.7, etc... down to 3.5 or 2.5...just for a second..and thus the voltages change with it.. and it keeps going back and forth as if it is throttling itself a little bit...I don't get it. Can someone explain this? The volts are WELL within ranges and the temps are even UNDER 40 degrees...so cold basically..all setting off... is this the mobo? or the chip?

**I've just ready the first page of this post about Gigabytes response to the voltage differences that are being noticed by many...**

but does this explain everything...and is that basically it? I'm (we're) stuck with boards that are always going to throttle like this and that's that?

these fluctuations are puzzling...albeit, I'm running rather stable at all my oc's up to around 4.7/4.8GHZ thus far...so that's fine... but still wondering if I should possibly change boards based on this...or is there more I can do or other settings I can change....

Do some have this issue due to their PSU? I've heard about things similar to this I believe but usually with low quality or underpowered PSU's. I have a Corsair 600W in this one. No expansion cards.. only 1 gpu (a gtx 560) that isn't using much power during any of my testing..the cooler and some fans.. I assume I'm good but is that a possibility too?
Thanks


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Just purchased my 8350 last week and also got a ga-990fxa-ud3 board. I know the only difference from ud3/5/7 are 2/3/4 vid card sli or cf capabilities and extra heatsinks/heat pipes on the north/south bridges..only 1 video card here so the ud3 was fine. I definitely wanted 4.5GHz oc and hopefully up to 5. Using Corsair H100 water cooler.
> I was able to get to 4.5GHz fairly easily and 4.6/4.7 with some work but the voltages are higher then they should be and fluctuate too much...I'm easily under 50 degrees c at load so temps are fine even with volts going over 1.51..
> 
> well as seen on various posts about recommending LLC to be at high or highest levels if available I had mine at extreme and thus the reason the voltage was so elevated but I didn't expect it to make that much of a difference. Even still it easily kept under 50 degrees even when pushing 1.55v at 4.5GHz-4.85GHz.. I have since tried lower LLC levels and the voltages are much lower and temps are even cooler although that wasn't a problem anyways (yet). but shouldn't LLC be at higher levels if you have the option and want a stable (higher) oc?
> And outside of that, the heavily fluctuating clock speeds and voltages are what is puzzling me. Regardless of low or high LLC setting. Low or high or auto voltages and ALL of the speed/control bios features are OFF (C&Q, CE1, C6, etc, etc) yet when under full LOAD the multiplier keeps dropping thus changing the clock from whatever oc I'm at 4.5, 4.7, etc... down to 3.5 or 2.5...just for a second..and thus the voltages change with it.. and it keeps going back and forth as if it is throttling itself a little bit...I don't get it. Can someone explain this? The volts are WELL within ranges and the temps are even UNDER 40 degrees...so cold basically..all setting off... is this the mobo? or the chip?
> 
> **I've just ready the first page of this post about Gigabytes response to the voltage differences that are being noticed by many...**
> 
> but does this explain everything...and is that basically it? I'm (we're) stuck with boards that are always going to throttle like this and that's that?
> 
> these fluctuations are puzzling...albeit, I'm running rather stable at all my oc's up to around 4.7/4.8GHZ thus far...so that's fine... but still wondering if I should possibly change boards based on this...or is there more I can do or other settings I can change....
> 
> Do some have this issue due to their PSU? I've heard about things similar to this I believe but usually with low quality or underpowered PSU's. I have a Corsair 600W in this one. No expansion cards.. only 1 gpu (a gtx 560) that isn't using much power during any of my testing..the cooler and some fans.. I assume I'm good but is that a possibility too?
> Thanks


You have a Rev 3.0 board? Because thats what I've spent the last 4 pages complaining about, throttling under load because there is no APM setting.


----------



## fabrizziop

Hey guys, I'm getting an fx8350, so I'm wondering if it's worth purchasing the GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 1.1, it's at 150$ at amazon (can't buy from newegg), and I want to know if it's better than the Asrock 970 Extreme4 I'm planning to sell (currently mining). Plus, does the GA-990FXA-UD3 have nice linux support?, and does a Hyper 212 EVO fit the mobo perfectly?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Just purchased my 8350 last week and also got a ga-990fxa-ud3 board. I know the only difference from ud3/5/7 are 2/3/4 vid card sli or cf capabilities and extra heatsinks/heat pipes on the north/south bridges..only 1 video card here so the ud3 was fine. I definitely wanted 4.5GHz oc and hopefully up to 5. Using Corsair H100 water cooler.
> I was able to get to 4.5GHz fairly easily and 4.6/4.7 with some work but the voltages are higher then they should be and fluctuate too much...I'm easily under 50 degrees c at load so temps are fine even with volts going over 1.51..
> 
> these fluctuations are puzzling...albeit, I'm running rather stable at all my oc's up to around 4.7/4.8GHZ thus far...so that's fine... but still wondering if I should possibly change boards based on this...or is there more I can do or other settings I can change....
> 
> Do some have this issue due to their PSU? I've heard about things similar to this I believe but usually with low quality or underpowered PSU's. I have a Corsair 600W in this one. No expansion cards.. only 1 gpu (a gtx 560) that isn't using much power during any of my testing..the cooler and some fans.. I assume I'm good but is that a possibility too?
> Thanks


Your throttling... need to disable APM via the bios or via overdrive.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fabrizziop*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm getting an fx8350, so I'm wondering if it's worth purchasing the GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 1.1, it's at 150$ at amazon (can't buy from newegg), and I want to know if it's better than the Asrock 970 Extreme4 I'm planning to sell (currently mining). Plus, does the GA-990FXA-UD3 have nice linux support?, and does a Hyper 212 EVO fit the mobo perfectly?


Yes, yes, and I believe so...


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noogai93*
> 
> I'm having a problem getting my ram to run at stock clocks (1600) on my UD5, it is Low Profile Corsair Vengeance CML16GX3M2A1600C10 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3.
> 
> I've tried many thing to get it to work with no avail, loosenut suggested i try EOCP which did not work for me on any settings, was getting crashes and lockups.
> 
> I've tried bumping up the voltage tweaking the timings but nothing seems to work.
> 
> anyone have an idea ?


I had to manually put the settings in.
EOCP didn't have the right timings and I could even get the bios to post.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> I had to manually put the settings in.
> EOCP didn't have the right timings and I could even get the bios to post.


I missed that post I guess...

EyeCU247 (creepy name btw







) is right, you need to get comfortable with setting the timings yourself...

your ram:

Tech Spec

Capacity
16GB (2 x 8GB)

Speed
DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)

Cas Latency
10

Timing
10-10-10-27

Voltage
1.5V

Multi-channel Kit
Dual Channel Kit

Heat Spreader
Yes

Features
1600MHz with headroom to allow overclocking

If you allow the bios to set the timings and voltage I guarantee everything will be off (it will more than likely use cl 9 timings for 1600 ram). You need to set timings correctly AND set your voltage. Now these boards tend to highball the voltage values for memory in the bios by about .25v. Meaning that 1.5v will be ~1.475v in reality. your ram is rated for 1.5 (and trust me can handle up to 1.6 24/7)... so I would bump the voltage as well.

If you want to check the memory voltage after having been set in the bios, use HWMonitor. And look at this voltage (highlighted in yellow):


This is your memory voltage read in real time.

So juice your memory until it reads ~1.5-1.55v and set your timings manually and you'll be golden.


----------



## DrV3nkman

Hi All, new member, 990fxa-UD3 Rev 3 owner and OC'ing newbie here.

I've done a ton of reading at this point and I'm kicking myself for not looking more into this earlier, but I'm of course having trouble OC'ing with the Rev 3. I have a fx6300 and would like to get up to ~4.5GHz (Using Corsair H80i for cooling)

I've come across this thread with someone indicating a BIOS version FBd will resolve most of our Rev 3 OC'ing issues:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?283877-Overclocking-GIGABYTE-GA-990FXA-UD3-Rev3-(FBd-bios)-with-FX-8350-Piledriver

Anyone have any thoughts? Looks like this was posted before the FB version was available (I have updated to FB from FA) from Gigabyte. I'm also finding very little mention or documentation on the "FBd" BIOS version for this mobo. Anyone here know more about this and/or have any experience with it?

The guy includes a link to the FBd file, but I'm extremely hesitant to just install a random BIOS I found on the interwebs with very little documentation (even if it is a Beta).

Thanks!


----------



## MadGoat

Anything a previous beta bios had in it will be included in the full release.

Meaning FB has all the features and "Fixes" that FBd had.

Now Rev 3 is a fresh board... and it seems gigabyte is taking their time in releasing Bios functions within the Uefi of the rev 3 boards. APM being one of the MAIN needed functions it seems.


----------



## DrV3nkman

So then theoretically FB should be ok for overclocking by this guy's rationale?

Sounds like we're still just in limbo right now?


----------



## InsideJob

I've messaged Gigabyte's technical support in hopes they have a beta version bios that includes APM for the rev 3 board. I really don't want to have wasted money buying this board not realizing the rev 3 had so many issues...


----------



## DrV3nkman

I share your woes, insideJob. And in my case, I even upgraded to this from the GA-970A-DS3 (which had a slew of its own issues).

:headdesk:

Dare I ask about using AMD OD in the interim? I know that can't be a substitute for BIOS OC'ing, but I'm curious.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrV3nkman*
> 
> I share your woes, insideJob. And in my case, I even upgraded to this from the GA-970A-DS3 (which had a slew of its own issues).
> 
> :headdesk:
> 
> Dare I ask about using AMD OD in the interim? I know that can't be a substitute for BIOS OC'ing, but I'm curious.


I upgraded from an MSI 970A-G46 (4+1 phase) garbage board, and to be completely honest at this point I haven't noticed a dramatic difference at all.

As for AMD OD, I used it in the beginning to originally find out what the system would push itself to with stock bios settings. Overdrive tuned the system to 3.9ghz at 1.4v before hanging and needing reboot.
Ended up just sticking with an easy 4ghz from bios settings with:
200x20
cpu vcore +0.125 (1.42v)
LLC set to extreme
cpu nb freq at 2600 mhz 1.25v
dram freq 1066 7-7-7-20 1t 1.62v (these are 2000mhz, 2v rated sticks)

I'm on bios version FB

I'm rather curious though, the system won't post or be stable with the ram at anything but 1066. I had it at 1600 easily on the old board







Whats up with that


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I've messaged Gigabyte's technical support in hopes they have a beta version bios that includes APM for the rev 3 board. I really don't want to have wasted money buying this board not realizing the rev 3 had so many issues...


BTH, there is no excuse for not including all the advertised features of a board from the get go. New revision or not. But on the otherside of things Im sure the features will be included in a latter BIOS. That however should have to be a problem the end user should have to deal with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrV3nkman*
> 
> I share your woes, insideJob. And in my case, I even upgraded to this from the GA-970A-DS3 (which had a slew of its own issues).
> 
> :headdesk:
> 
> Dare I ask about using AMD OD in the interim? I know that can't be a substitute for BIOS OC'ing, but I'm curious.


OD will work in the meantime for APM, and there are ways to have the options enabled on windows startup. As far as Overclocking, I would still set your clocks via the BIOS (UEFI). and enable / disable functions that are necessary via OD in the mean time.

GL


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I upgraded from an MSI 970A-G46 (4+1 phase) garbage board, and to be completely honest at this point I haven't noticed a dramatic difference at all.
> 
> As for AMD OD, I used it in the beginning to originally find out what the system would push itself to with stock bios settings. Overdrive tuned the system to 3.9ghz at 1.4v before hanging and needing reboot.
> Ended up just sticking with an easy 4ghz from bios settings with:
> 200x20
> cpu vcore +0.125 (1.42v)
> LLC set to extreme
> cpu nb freq at 2600 mhz 1.25v
> dram freq 1066 7-7-7-20 1t 1.62v (these are 2000mhz, 2v rated sticks)
> 
> I'm on bios version FB
> 
> I'm rather curious though, the system won't post or be stable with the ram at anything but 1066. I had it at 1600 easily on the old board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whats up with that


Your memory issue is directly related to your CPU/NB.

2600 NB @ 1.25v is REALLY good. But the higher the NB clock, the more voltage it will need to maintain a higher memory clock (as well as tighter timings)

What I would do:

Bump CPU/NB to 1.35v
Bump Memory Voltage to 1.565v (this will net your about ~1.535 real volts)
Set Memory timings to auto, change memory multiplier to 8. Then go back and timings to manual and set your timings to 9.9.9.24.33 1t.
And its up to you if you want to push main clock higher, but you will more than likely have to use more voltage. ~1.45 - 1.488 will generally net you right at 4.0 - 4.08ghz fully stable on a thuban base core.

And Remember, PHII's have been overclocked for years without LLC. dont Jump to extreme just because. LLC is a voltage feature, no one jumps to slamming 1.6v through the vCore... LLC should be treated the same. Start with LLC off, and move up from there.

GL

ADDED: A short explanation of LLC that could help...
Quote:


> Disable LLC if need be. LLC is really only there to keep the Vcore from dropping from inrush current when a cpu goes from idle state to full load (worst case scenario)
> 
> For these brief moments the vcore can drop as current demand increases dramatically and while the VRM's are reacting to the demand. This can cause large instability. So they came up with LLC. LLC looks for the voltage drop and supplies added current while the VRM's catch up. Seems all good in theory...
> 
> It does work to a certain point. But as processors become smaller, they are also becoming more and more sensitive to OVER voltage. LLC adds voltage during needed "ramp up" situations but also cant react fast enough when demand drops. This causes voltage SPIKES that are more often not noticeable via monitoring software. This intern is causing a whole new problem for Overclockers. These Spikes with LLC is causing Instability in the OC field and most don't even realize it.
> 
> At higher overclocks of a chip, you are generally pushing the voltage to its higher limits. Where as LLC would have not been a problem at lower voltages, it is now causeing much higher voltage spikes at the new higher voltages used to obtain the overclock in question.
> 
> Moving forward further; when enabling C1E and CnQ power saving features, your asking a processor not only to lower its clock speed but also its voltage during idle situations. Pulling the processor out of idle is the tricky part. Your ramping clocks and voltage together all while putting a load on the processor as well. This is too quick for the VRM's to keep up with and is where LLC steps in to keep vdroop from killing the system.
> 
> there is good and bad and this long explanation I'm sure no one will read anyway.
> 
> So the short of it:
> 
> Use the *least* amount of LLC you can at higher OC's and voltages to maintain stability.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Your memory issue is directly related to your CPU/NB.
> 
> 2600 NB @ 1.25v is REALLY good. But the higher the NB clock, the more voltage it will need to maintain a higher memory clock (as well as tighter timings)
> 
> What I would do:
> 
> Bump CPU/NB to 1.35v
> Bump Memory Voltage to 1.565v (this will net your about ~1.535 real volts)
> Set Memory timings to auto, change memory multiplier to 8. Then go back and timings to manual and set your timings to 9.9.9.24.33 1t.
> And its up to you if you want to push main clock higher, but you will more than likely have to use more voltage. ~1.45 - 1.488 will generally net you right at 4.0 - 4.08ghz fully stable on a thuban base core.
> 
> And Remember, PHII's have been overclocked for years without LLC. dont Jump to extreme just because. LLC is a voltage feature, no one jumps to slamming 1.6v through the vCore... LLC should be treated the same. Start with LLC off, and move up from there.
> 
> GL
> 
> ADDED: A short explanation of LLC that could help...


That's great information and very helpful for my situation as well.


----------



## DrV3nkman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> OD will work in the meantime for APM, and there are ways to have the options enabled on windows startup. As far as Overclocking, I would still set your clocks via the BIOS (UEFI). and enable / disable functions that are necessary via OD in the mean time.


So you're saying if I wanted to get to say 4.5GHz, I should change those settings via BIOS and then turn off APM via OD after I've made the BIOS setting changes and successfully booted into windows?

Forgive me for such basic questions, but does that also then mean that I'll have to go through auto-tune in OD before changing anything in BIOS?

Your feedback has been invaluable so far -- Much appreciated!

Edit: Ran Auto-Tune and went stable all the way through 4.6GHZ @ ~1.4V (I think just shy). Had to reboot about half way through 4.7. Left with the question: What now? Go to BIOS, change multiplier/voltage and then match with OD?


----------



## bob80

Hey guys, are you able to use 10.66x RAM multiplier ? I am using a 990FXA UD5 (rev 1)..


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrV3nkman*
> 
> So you're saying if I wanted to get to say 4.5GHz, I should change those settings via BIOS and then turn off APM via OD after I've made the BIOS setting changes and successfully booted into windows?
> 
> Forgive me for such basic questions, but does that also then mean that I'll have to go through auto-tune in OD before changing anything in BIOS?
> 
> Your feedback has been invaluable so far -- Much appreciated!


I would OC like anyone normally would with all options within the BIOS.

APM seems to be the only function missing from your BIOS for Bulldozer and Piledriver based chips.

So I would then use OD to shut APM off (if it is in fact causing your chip to throttle at OC).

And as a Side note, A good OC in your situation would be something along the lines of:

FSB:250
CPU: x18 = 4.5ghz @ ~1.4v
CPU/NB: x10 = 2500mhz @ 1.3v
HT Link: x 10 = 2500mhz @ 1.2v (normal setting)

And Depending on the memory you have, you will have to set the multiplier and timings accordingly. (I.E. 6.66 x 250 = 1665 with CL9 or 8 x 250 = 2000 with CL11)

With a H80 however, you might be able to pull off jumping your multi up 18.5 (4.625ghz) or 19 (4.75ghz)

Anyway,

GL


----------



## Willi

just got this northbridge cooler and found out it wont fit the 990FX, the push-through holes on the mobo are too far apart. Is there any decently good aftermarket NB cooler that will fit this mobo? I'm having a hard time even when it comes to NB waterblocks :/


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> just got this northbridge cooler and found out it wont fit the 990FX, the push-through holes on the mobo are too far apart. Is there any decently good aftermarket NB cooler that will fit this mobo? I'm having a hard time even when it comes to NB waterblocks :/


If really concerned with the NB temps, you can look into this: XIGMATEK PTR-CN881

Many people have installed this on the -UD3 with success. Is does however seem it takes a little ingenuity.

or might have a go at this one: Logisys CC8


GL


----------



## Willi

Thanks for the help, Madgoat, I like the logysis and the dual heatpipe, but sadly newegg won't ship anything to Brazil. The only one that sends here with decent shipping costs is PPC'S. Sadly I have to choose from what they have in stock


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willi*
> 
> Thanks for the help, Madgoat, I like the logysis and the dual heatpipe, but sadly newegg won't ship anything to Brazil. The only one that sends here with decent shipping costs is PPC'S. Sadly I have to choose from what they have in stock


Here ya go:

Ships to Brazil:

XoXIDE Xigmatek - Porter CN881

Check this out too:

CoolJag Falcon Mini

MG


----------



## amdforce

It seems that many people are having issues with VRM throttling and need help to disable APM. Even at stock clock 3.5ghz it was dropping my freq down 3ghz. I had all pwr management features turned off the the cpu. i have a fx 6300 oc to 4.5 ghz. with a ga-990fxa-ud3 board rev 3.0, I have successfully fixed my throttling problem. This is with bios FB. Don't know if it works with other boards though. HCP mode must be enables in the bios under cpu control settings.
Here is the link http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mainboards/display/amd-fx-mainboards-roundup_3.html


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdforce*
> 
> It seems that many people are having issues with VRM throttling and need help to disable APM. Even at stock clock 3.5ghz it was dropping my freq down 3ghz. I had all pwr management features turned off the the cpu. i have a fx 6300 oc to 4.5 ghz. with a ga-990fxa-ud3 board rev 3.0, I have successfully fixed my throttling problem. This is with bios FB. Don't know if it works with other boards though. HCP mode must be enables in the bios under cpu control settings.
> Here is the link http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mainboards/display/amd-fx-mainboards-roundup_3.html


From Article:
Quote:


> During our experiments we discovered that enabling "HPC Mode" parameter in the "CPU Configuration" section prevents the frequency from dropping like that.


Interesting! It seems that there is hope yet!

+1 amdforce for joining and taking the initiative to share this with us!

And welcome to OCN!










ADDED:

A little piece from that article that helps further my thoughts on LLC:
Quote:


> It turned out that enabling this feature does seriously increase the system power consumption. However, if we disable "CPU Load Line Calibration" completely, then we will have to increase the CPU Vcore even more to overclock our processor to the same frequency. With this technology enabled we only added 0.1625 V, while without it we had to increase the CPU Vcore by as much as 0.2375 V, so the end-results were, obviously, ambiguous. Take a look at the system power consumption when the processor is overclocked to 4.5 GHz and compare the results with the enabled and disabled "CPU Load Line Calibration" technology:
> 
> 
> 
> In order to ensure that under heavy load the processor has sufficient voltage coming in, we have to raise it above the level we have with the working "CPU Load Line Calibration". As a result, it becomes excessive in idle mode and under low operational loads, which leads to much higher system power consumption in these modes. However, under heavy loads the power consumption turned out significantly lower, which had a positive effect not only on the electrical, but also on the thermal parameters.


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdforce*
> 
> It seems that many people are having issues with VRM throttling and need help to disable APM. Even at stock clock 3.5ghz it was dropping my freq down 3ghz. I had all pwr management features turned off the the cpu. i have a fx 6300 oc to 4.5 ghz. with a ga-990fxa-ud3 board rev 3.0, I have successfully fixed my throttling problem. This is with bios FB. Don't know if it works with other boards though. HCP mode must be enables in the bios under cpu control settings.
> Here is the link http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mainboards/display/amd-fx-mainboards-roundup_3.html


I just read that rev 3 boards don't have the APM to turn off and others say it has to be turned off to solve this! I have rev3 and FB bios so will try your suggestion...I hope to god it works Cuz I'm considering switching boards due to this issue...will let u know if this works


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> You have a Rev 3.0 board? Because thats what I've spent the last 4 pages complaining about, throttling under load because there is no APM setting.


YES I have REV3... This board has inherited issue like this? No APM setting to disable in bios! But someone else just suggested to ENABLE HPM to solve...gonna try.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Your throttling... need to disable APM via the bios or via overdrive.
> Yes, yes, and I believe so...


There is no APM to disable...this is only REV3 boards apparently?
Someone posted to enable HPM on these boards to solve...gonna try but does this make sense? Is this a defect? This throttling and other voltage fluctuations are really hampering me!
Thanks


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> You have a Rev 3.0 board? Because thats what I've spent the last 4 pages complaining about, throttling under load because there is no APM setting.


YES I have REV3... This board has inherited issue like this? No APM setting to disable in bios! But someone else just suggested to ENABLE HPM to solve...gonna try.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Your throttling... need to disable APM via the bios or via overdrive.
> Yes, yes, and I believe so...


There is no APM to disable...this is only REV3 boards apparently?
Someone posted to enable HPM on these boards to solve...gonna try but does this make sense? Is this a defect? This throttling and other voltage fluctuations are really hampering me!
Thanks


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> YES I have REV3... This board has inherited issue like this? No APM setting to disable in bios! But someone else just suggested to ENABLE HPM to solve...gonna try.
> There is no APM to disable...this is only REV3 boards apparently?
> Someone posted to enable HPM on these boards to solve...gonna try but does this make sense? Is this a defect? This throttling and other voltage fluctuations are really hampering me!
> Thanks


Give it a try, I returned mine before I found out that info. If it works then thats a decent work around.


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Give it a try, I returned mine before I found out that info. If it works then thats a decent work around.


Did u return for SAME mobo? Or switch to different model or brand? That's the key question
Thanks


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Did u return for SAME mobo? Or switch to different model or brand? That's the key question
> Thanks


I looked to see if they had an earlier revision and they did not, so I picked out the Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0. It was $40 more but it works well and I am happy with it.


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdforce*
> 
> It seems that many people are having issues with VRM throttling and need help to disable APM. Even at stock clock 3.5ghz it was dropping my freq down 3ghz. I had all pwr management features turned off the the cpu. i have a fx 6300 oc to 4.5 ghz. with a ga-990fxa-ud3 board rev 3.0, I have successfully fixed my throttling problem. This is with bios FB. Don't know if it works with other boards though. HCP mode must be enables in the bios under cpu control settings.
> Here is the link http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mainboards/display/amd-fx-mainboards-roundup_3.html


THIS WORKED! Just tested and BINGO! NO MORE THROTTLING! Thank you so much.
Hopefully others will find this when needed...because typically ALL of these kind of settings are turned OFF when oc'ing.. and REV3.0 editions of this board do NOT have the APM option to turn off...so this throttling issue was hard to solve but this works..not sure why this exact setting...but who cares...it works.. so now I'm getting it to STAY at whatever clock and/or voltages I set it to!

I just might have to keep this board afterall because this was basically the main issue holding me back.. I still wonder about the more specific VRM and digi+ power controls of the Asus boards...but maybe for another build.. will wait and see..

This board is basically doing everything I need now...it has OC'd very easily... I can now do 5Ghz..and it's actually going to STAY at that clock when testing.. I can oc with increased bus or via multiplier.. I still have to tweak a few more fine tuning settings for oc's above 4.7Ghz to get lower voltages and maybe a bit more performance with the NB/HT/RAM clocks combined...but now the board is STABLE on clock speeds and voltages..I'm WELL UNDER 50 degrees even up to 5Ghz on H100 water cooler.. so all appears good to go!


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Give it a try, I returned mine before I found out that info. If it works then thats a decent work around.


As you'll see in the reply post I just submit...it WORKED! who'da thunk it... but that solves this stubborn issue, thus making this board a keeper. Too bad you didn't find it out in time..but hey, you ended up UPgrading anyways, so can't complain.. but keep in mind for future reference and maybe can help someone else who notices this issue with this board.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I looked to see if they had an earlier revision and they did not, so I picked out the Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0. It was $40 more but it works well and I am happy with it.


Can't go wrong with that board..I may actually get one of those as well.. a friend of mine is about to upgrade and he's selling me this one.. its SOLID and everyone who has it can't really complain about anything.. and supposedly there isn't really much difference from this one to the first Crosshair V..other then some advanced Digi+ controls..

The only thing I noticed about the Sabertooth is the max ram freq is 1866.. although I dont think those max levels are 100% because my UD3 Gigabyte board I'm on now says it goes to max 2000(oc) on ram but I have 2133 ram for it and it's XMP mem profile comes up in the bios and allows me to select it and is in fact running at 2133...so curious if that is the same for most other boards too? maybe the latest bios update that just came out for the UD3 allowed this? dunno..


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> As you'll see in the reply post I just submit...it WORKED! who'da thunk it... but that solves this stubborn issue, thus making this board a keeper. Too bad you didn't find it out in time..but hey, you ended up UPgrading anyways, so can't complain.. but keep in mind for future reference and maybe can help someone else who notices this issue with this board.
> Can't go wrong with that board..I may actually get one of those as well.. a friend of mine is about to upgrade and he's selling me this one.. its SOLID and everyone who has it can't really complain about anything.. and supposedly there isn't really much difference from this one to the first Crosshair V..other then some advanced Digi+ controls..
> 
> The only thing I noticed about the Sabertooth is the max ram freq is 1866.. although I dont think those max levels are 100% because my UD3 Gigabyte board I'm on now says it goes to max 2000(oc) on ram but I have 2133 ram for it and it's XMP mem profile comes up in the bios and allows me to select it and is in fact running at 2133...so curious if that is the same for most other boards too? maybe the latest bios update that just came out for the UD3 allowed this? dunno..


gratz

This is great infor for future r3 owners...


----------



## amdforce

Great to hear I posted this earlier on the board because I was having issues like everyone else. As soon as I tried this method in the link I provided I was amazed it had worked. I wanted to share it with all the others on this board to help with there frustrations as it did for me.


----------



## punk2k6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdforce*
> 
> It seems that many people are having issues with VRM throttling and need help to disable APM. Even at stock clock 3.5ghz it was dropping my freq down 3ghz. I had all pwr management features turned off the the cpu. i have a fx 6300 oc to 4.5 ghz. with a ga-990fxa-ud3 board rev 3.0, I have successfully fixed my throttling problem. This is with bios FB. Don't know if it works with other boards though. HCP mode must be enables in the bios under cpu control settings.
> Here is the link http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mainboards/display/amd-fx-mainboards-roundup_3.html


How do i set the cpu voltage on the board there is only Auto, Normal and offsets ?


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *punk2k6*
> 
> How do i set the cpu voltage on the board there is only Auto, Normal and offsets ?


You have to set your offset to the desired amount from the base voltage which is found in the cpu health page I believe. Then use LLC to keep that voltage stable depending on how it responds when booted into windows. Mine only drops to 1.42 from 1.44 with LLC on extreme. This is with my offset at +0.125v with base cpu voltage of 1.32v.


----------



## electech13

What is the difference between "auto" and "normal" on these boards?


----------



## Fordox

auto adjusts to other settings, normal is fixed (sort of)


----------



## punk2k6

Is something wrong with my pc ? When I restart my computer it shuts down for like 5 sec then starts back up again it even happens when i turn it on this started happening when i enable HPC mode. I can go into windows just fine o.o

pc specs:
AMD FX-8350
Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0
GTX 670
Corsair TX 650W V2


----------



## Loosenut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *punk2k6*
> 
> Is something wrong with my pc ? When I restart my computer it shuts down for like 5 sec then starts back up again it even happens when i turn it on this started happening when i enable HPC mode. I can go into windows just fine o.o
> 
> pc specs:
> AMD FX-8350
> Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0
> GTX 670
> Corsair TX 650W V2


if it is happening after you make changes in bios it is normal. the changes have to be applied when it is off as to clear out the old setting completely.
just think of it as a physical switch flipping.


----------



## amdforce

I am experiencing the same thing when I restart it shuts down for for 3-5 seconds and starts back up again. I don't know but everything works fine otherwise. Imho I'm sure it's fine, but I fixed my cpu throttling issue so I'm gonna leave HPC mode enabled.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdforce*
> 
> I am experiencing the same thing when I restart it shuts down for for 3-5 seconds and starts back up again. I don't know but everything works fine otherwise. Imho I'm sure it's fine, but I fixed my cpu throttling issue so I'm gonna leave HPC mode enabled.


That is interesting because HPC mode handles the P-state modes. When enabled it allows the CPU to ramp from Idle P-state to full P-state immediately instead of slowly engaging to determine the amount of clock required for the job at hand. This enables the CPU to be immediately ready for parallel work instead of random (or HTC) application thread work which befits (from a purely efficiency stand point) using alternate P-states.

Ergo, I wouldn't see why the BIOS would have to re-enable the command every boot unless the processor resets P-states every reset. In which case the BIOS is using a sort of "HACK" to enable the HPC mode every boot explaining the "on / off" scenario your guys are reporting.


----------



## MILLER2003

Hello, I am having trouble getting high memory marks with the 990FXA-UD3, I used passmark 8.0 to determine this. I have corsair Vengeance 8GB(2x4GB) currently installed. Mine currently rates 45% slower than what others got with corsairs 1333 (PC310600) ram. Mine is 1600 (PC3 12800). Any tricks or solutions that you know of? Is it the brand or the speed?
Thanks everyone.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Wow It's been a while since I've been on the OC.net forums!

I've recently purchased a 990FXA-UD3 Rev 3.0 board and I currently regret getting the 3rd revision. Even though I turn off all the APM options I possibly can and enable HPC mode, I still am getting CPU frequency throttling during load. Is there maybe something I am missing?


----------



## DrV3nkman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amdforce*
> 
> It seems that many people are having issues with VRM throttling and need help to disable APM. Even at stock clock 3.5ghz it was dropping my freq down 3ghz. I had all pwr management features turned off the the cpu. i have a fx 6300 oc to 4.5 ghz. with a ga-990fxa-ud3 board rev 3.0, I have successfully fixed my throttling problem. This is with bios FB. Don't know if it works with other boards though. HCP mode must be enables in the bios under cpu control settings.
> Here is the link http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mainboards/display/amd-fx-mainboards-roundup_3.html


Can you tell me what your other settings are and how you got to 4.5ghz?

I have the exact same processor and board and am still having some issues even with HPC mode enabled.

Thanks!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> Wow It's been a while since I've been on the OC.net forums!
> 
> I've recently purchased a 990FXA-UD3 Rev 3.0 board and I currently regret getting the 3rd revision. Even though I turn off all the APM options I possibly can and enable HPC mode, I still am getting CPU frequency throttling during load. Is there maybe something I am missing?


From my research is seems AMD has gotten motherboard manufacturers to throttle the chips under full load to prevent them from going over their rated TDP as a safety precaution. Apparently they had found that in some situations specifically with x6 Phenoms on AM3+ boards with inadequate power delivery for that many physical cores could fail dramatically especially in lower quality 4+1 phase boards, specifically it seems the ones released by MSI. Nearly causing a few house fires...


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> Wow It's been a while since I've been on the OC.net forums!
> 
> I've recently purchased a 990FXA-UD3 Rev 3.0 board and I currently regret getting the 3rd revision. Even though I turn off all the APM options I possibly can and enable HPC mode, I still am getting CPU frequency throttling during load. Is there maybe something I am missing?


Well ever since I found out about enabling HPC the throttling has STOPPED and all is working great.
That was the only thing holding me back with this board but Rev 3 is great.
Love the bios and all the oc'ing is working great. The temps are great too. The LLC mode goes a little too high on extreme and ultra but found the perfect medium with it and voltage offset
Sure I wish there were a few more vrm or power options in bios and actual static voltage settings other then offsets but have managed fine and other then that all is great with this board.
Able to oc to 5Ghz quite easily now at reasonable volts and great temps. Took some fine tuning after 4.8 and was very frustrated with the throttling but its figured out now and very happy with board now too.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Well ever since I found out about enabling HPC the throttling has STOPPED and all is working great.
> That was the only thing holding me back with this board but Rev 3 is great.
> Love the bios and all the oc'ing is working great. The temps are great too. The LLC mode goes a little too high on extreme and ultra but found the perfect medium with it and voltage offset
> Sure I wish there were a few more vrm or power options in bios and actual static voltage settings other then offsets but have managed fine and other then that all is great with this board.
> Able to oc to 5Ghz quite easily now at reasonable volts and great temps. Took some fine tuning after 4.8 and was very frustrated with the throttling but its figured out now and very happy with board now too.


What did you end up setting the LLC to? I've noticed with HPC mode on that the throttling doesn't happen until maybe 5 minutes into a stress test. I had LLC on ultra high but what would you recommend?


----------



## DrV3nkman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Well ever since I found out about enabling HPC the throttling has STOPPED and all is working great.
> That was the only thing holding me back with this board but Rev 3 is great.
> Love the bios and all the oc'ing is working great. The temps are great too. The LLC mode goes a little too high on extreme and ultra but found the perfect medium with it and voltage offset
> Sure I wish there were a few more vrm or power options in bios and actual static voltage settings other then offsets but have managed fine and other then that all is great with this board.
> Able to oc to 5Ghz quite easily now at reasonable volts and great temps. Took some fine tuning after 4.8 and was very frustrated with the throttling but its figured out now and very happy with board now too.


Which processor are you running and what are your other settings? I'm even having trouble with 4.5, much less 4.8+

Many times I get a boot failure or worse, BIOS never loads and I have to take out the battery to reset. Admittedly I'm very new to this, but I've even tried the following suggestions from MadGoat below with little luck.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> And as a Side note, A good OC in your situation would be something along the lines of:
> 
> FSB:250
> CPU: x18 = 4.5ghz @ ~1.4v
> CPU/NB: x10 = 2500mhz @ 1.3v
> HT Link: x 10 = 2500mhz @ 1.2v (normal setting)
> 
> And Depending on the memory you have, you will have to set the multiplier and timings accordingly. (I.E. 6.66 x 250 = 1665 with CL9 or 8 x 250 = 2000 with CL11)
> 
> With a H80 however, you might be able to pull off jumping your multi up 18.5 (4.625ghz) or 19 (4.75ghz)


Am I missing something obvious here? (My rig)


----------



## deathmake317

HELP im using a 990fxa-ud3 and 8350 on h100 coller

originally I could not stable at stock settings then I enabled hpc wich fixed that but if I go up any multiplier whatsoever the computer wont boot and goes to a bios message that shows the speeds its running at and its shows the base clock for the processor is 0.0mhz????????????????????????????????????????????

PLEASE HELP


----------



## zylonite

Planning to buy GA-990FXA-UD5. Rev 3.0 seems to be the latest. Anyone knows about he modifications to rev 3.0? Is this a good motherboard paired with FX8350 and 7970?


----------



## firagabird

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Update was easy peasy...
> No luck though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tried setting core unlock to enabled, save and restart = bios screen flashes then a blank screen that just says gigabyte dual uefi bios at the top then system restarts and continues process until I shut down and clear cmos
> Set core unlock to enabled, disabled C1E & C&Q, save and reset = same as above
> " ", boost CPU vcore by +0.150 (1.470 approx), save and reset = " "
> " ", boost CPU vcore by +0.200 (1.520 approx), save and reset = " "
> " ", " ", disable C1E & C&Q, save & reset = " "
> 
> I am disappointed. I know the cores are there in my chip as stated, I've activated them on another board...


This was EXACTLY the same experience I've had with my R3.0 UD3. That's why I flashed back to FA. My processor was a 555, which I knew could unlock to X4 cores, but could only unlock to 3 on the FA bios, and couldn't unlock *at all* with the FB one.

The R3.0 sucks. Can I say that? I won't be censored, right? It totally SUCKS. =/ I'm guessing all the praise et al. of the board is from owners of previous revisions, up to 2.0. I for one can't see what's so good about this board besides 8+2 power phasing.


----------



## punk2k6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathmake317*
> 
> HELP im using a 990fxa-ud3 and 8350 on h100 coller
> 
> originally I could not stable at stock settings then I enabled hpc wich fixed that but if I go up any multiplier whatsoever the computer wont boot and goes to a bios message that shows the speeds its running at and its shows the base clock for the processor is 0.0mhz????????????????????????????????????????????
> 
> PLEASE HELP


Try to reset your bios


----------



## WishinItWas

So I just purchased this board and will be completing the build this week. Now after reading this thread I am very nervous about Rev 3.0. Are there any Beta's out for this revision at all I keep seeing people taking about FA and FB on the Gigabyte website?


----------



## InsideJob

The FB bios is the most recent public release by Gigabyte. I hope Gigabyte revises their uefi bios as I find it the least user friendly of all the uefi bios' I have experience with.


----------



## deathmake317

Iv reset my bios.multiple times this is just not working


----------



## DrV3nkman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathmake317*
> 
> HELP im using a 990fxa-ud3 and 8350 on h100 coller
> 
> originally I could not stable at stock settings then I enabled hpc wich fixed that but if I go up any multiplier whatsoever the computer wont boot and goes to a bios message that shows the speeds its running at and its shows the base clock for the processor is 0.0mhz????????????????????????????????????????????
> 
> PLEASE HELP


I've had this before and I often have to reset my BIOS when changing the multiplier. (I'm running a 6300, also Vishera)

The only way I've had any success OC'ing thus far is by changing the FSB, not multiplier. I've been able to get ~4.2GHz moderately stable at 230 (auto 200) and turn down the memory multiplier a bit.

I'll reiterate that I've only had moderate success because just like you, whenever I change the multiplier after things are nice and clean with FSB settings, I get boot failure.

Changing LLC seems to make a difference in terms of stability as well (ultra high and high(?) seem to be the best options for me so far) My biggest questions right now are mostly around core voltage (tried auto and +.125) and memory timings.

I know changing memory timings can definitely lead to boot failures, so I'm wondering if I'm all off?

When I try 250 FSB @ x ~18.5, LLC set to ultra high, DRAM voltage 1.6, Core Voltage +.125 (w/ a base of ~1.34) and default memory timings (9-9-9-24 2T), I crash and burn (not literally).... Boot Failure

Seems like memory timings might be a usual suspect, no?


----------



## deathmake317

memory timing is on the xmp profile the ram came on I don't even mess with that stuff


----------



## MadGoat

What an encounter with a 8350 forced apon my motherboard...











Doesn't look all that bad really. Just so happend that the perfect size fan in the "closet of doom".


----------



## EyeCU247

I know its a little late for this now but....
Was I supposed to do something to prove I had a 990FXA board, before I started posting in this Thread?


----------



## punk2k6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> What an encounter with a 8350 forced apon my motherboard...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't look all that bad really. Just so happend that the perfect size fan in the "closet of doom".


nice setup


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *punk2k6*
> 
> nice setup


Thanks, it's all a bit "old" as it is now... But I'm still a bit partial to this rig.

I seriously didn't think that the 8350 would cause the VRMs to heat up that much... but they make an insane amount of heat. Intro little VRM fan to save the day...









But as luck would have it, the 8350 in question was bunk, a dud, a absolute "how did this make it off the line?" abomination of silicon. So It's currently taking a postal ride to meet the RMA gods.


----------



## electech13

Hopefully a quick/easy question here: (but who knows, lol)

***
Does running a single Sata3 ssd on this boards AMD sb950 RAID chip run slower then if it was just on AHCI? I know that RAID is basically a combo with AHCI anyways..but I only ask this because of a test setup i did yesterday.
***

One of my 128GB's ssd's bench's around 530mb/510mb read/write normally when the onboard Sata controller (sata ports 0-3) running as "AHCI". (that is within various test apps..as for the more thorough and valid AS SSD it gets a SEQ of 470 read and 193 write).

Now I setup a Raid 0 array with three other ssd's to test and then left the one single ssd (above) on it to run the OS...win7x64 in this case..and the array would be for storage and a quick access drive for certain programs...

The RAID array tested quite well.. (1245mb/1097mb read/write)..not bad for this onboard AMD chip..as I know the raid made by AMD/Nvidia is not the greatest, especially when compared to Intel or a separate RAID controller card (which I am also testing now...a LSI, that just gets out of this world speeds!)...but nonetheless, not bad for the AMD raid chip onboard.

But when I tested the single drive again (this time it was technically running via the onboard raid chip..but still same port, cable, os,etc, etc.) it dropped in performance by 20-25% and I'm curious if this is to be expected? It now tested at 405mb/375mb read/write on standard apps and as per AS SSD it was now testing SEQ 332 read and 135 write.
Oh and btw, it tested EXACTLY the same both times whether I had the other 3 disks up and running also on the controller at the same time or if they were removed and this one drive was left all by itself on the now (bios changed) raid sata controller...if I simply change the bios back to "AHCI" and reload os and test same drive again it goes right back to the original (faster) scores!

So, i'm very curious, does this (or any) onboard sata raid chip do some sort of bandwidth sharing or sub structure (per channel maybe) that would cause this type of change? I really wasn't expecting to see any change at all but then this happened and it left me wondering..just this AMD raid controller? or all? or just my board?

Please let me know if you know more about this.
Thanks


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> From my research is seems AMD has gotten motherboard manufacturers to throttle the chips under full load to prevent them from going over their rated TDP as a safety precaution. Apparently they had found that in some situations specifically with x6 Phenoms on AM3+ boards with inadequate power delivery for that many physical cores could fail dramatically especially in lower quality 4+1 phase boards, specifically it seems the ones released by MSI. Nearly causing a few house fires...


Christ on a bike. House fires? That is kinda hilarious.


----------



## InsideJob

I shall find the link and post it.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I shall find the link and post it.


If you post it I will read it. That sounds too crazy to not cause my curiosity.


----------



## InsideJob

Here you are
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1559489


----------



## Pudfark

That's an eye opener for sure.
Like some of the posters over at that link,
I'll never "stress test" again, when I'm not in the room.
Thanx for posting that link.

I just got a spot fan for my VRM's.
Time to shut down and install.


----------



## WishinItWas

Im using a Noctua NH-C14 for case clearance purposes. Its in down blast configuration push/pull and I oriented it so that most of the fan overhang is over the VRM heat sink. I have not had an opportunity ( as this was built last night) to check what the temps are. I have no room for another cooling solution in the area so I hope this is sufficient.

Quick cell phone pic because A.) Im proud and B.) you can see the configuration.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WishinItWas*
> 
> Im using a Noctua NH-C14 for case clearance purposes. Its in down blast configuration push/pull and I oriented it so that most of the fan overhang is over the VRM heat sink. I have not had an opportunity ( as this was built last night) to check what the temps are. I have no room for another cooling solution in the area so I hope this is sufficient.
> 
> Quick cell phone pic because A.) Im proud and B.) you can see the configuration.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great!

I bet the cooler will keep the north bridge nice and cool as well! What direction do you have the top fans blowing? Looks like using them as intake would be a great benefit.

What ya cooling under the heat sink anyway?

Oh, just saw your post count... WELCOME TO OCN!

GJ GL


----------



## WishinItWas

Well thanks!

This is my "upgrade to this century build" as my old build was this:
DFI Lanparty NF4 Ultra-D Motherboard
1.8Ghz AMD Opteron 165 (993 socket): Overclocked to 2.5Ghz
G.SKILL 4GB [x2(2 x 1GB)] 184-Pin DDR SDRAM DDR 400
Nvidia GeForce 7800 GTX 256MB: Overclocked to 455MHz
Western Digital Caviar Black 640GB 7200 RPM
CORSAIR Enthusiast Series 550W PS

Hiding under the Noctua is an FX-8350.

Thats a good point about the top two 140mm fans... I left them as exhaust but I might switch them to intake and switch the side 200mm fan to exhaust. Although I will have to remove the Noctua for the 3rd time !

Edit: After some quick testing last night the heat coming off of the VRM and CPU heat sink is pulled out of the case nicely with the top to fans exhausting, quite noticeable to the touch. With a 4.6GHz clock at 100% loading temps leveled out at about 53 C.


----------



## secondthought

I have a question, will installing a NH-D14 on the UD7 block the first PCIe slot?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *secondthought*
> 
> I have a question, will installing a NH-D14 on the UD7 block the first PCIe slot?


Take a look at this pic:


----------



## DeadlyDNA

*knock knock* does anyone know if 990fx chipset still has issues with 600 series nvidia cards in SLI? I am referring to the issue that used to be when running 2 600 series nvidia cards and enabling SLI the FPS would be like 5fps in any 3d applications/games?


----------



## WishinItWas

So on the FB BIOS for Rev 3.0 .... I can not change ANY settings from auto to allow me to OC. The only thing it will let me do is change the memory profile to extreme which runs my RAM at the factory timings versus the relaxed timings in auto mode.

I know people are saying features are missing in the BIOS to allow for proper high en OC'ing but all I am able to do is turn off the dynamic auto clock ramping so it stays at the stock 4.0GHz .

Why can I not change ANY settings at all regarding the multiplyer, FSB, voltages etc??????


----------



## krajlevic

I've got a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 1.2 BIOS FFA and I've upgraded from a Phenom II X4 955 to a FX-8320, i noticed that my G-Skill PC3-10700H that I ran at 1600Mhz and 1.7v hold now 1.472v in Windows at the same frequency maybe thanks to the memory controller and the Northbridge à 2200MHz. I'll try to lower the timings though.

I didn't try yet overclocking with this CPU but my Phenom could reach 4.0 GHz @ 1.45v in BIOS so I'll try 4.5 GHz with the same voltage.

Anyone with this board and this CPU could tell me the "reasonable" frequency they've reached under 1.5v ?


----------



## itomic

With your board, u can count under 1.5V for about 4.8 - 4.9Ghz 24/7 and maybe about 5.0Ghz for benchmarking. Vishera is better and more forgiving for overclocking then buldozer.


----------



## krajlevic

Thanks for the reply, I didn't expect so much, I'll try in a few weeks when I'll got more time.


----------



## itomic

Hi fellow overclockers. I read much about problems with Rev. 3.0 boards. Espacialy 970A - UD3 boardand problems with overclocking, that users cant disable APM ( they changed the name in HCP or something like that ). Im looking in to buy UD5, so does anyone have the Rev 3.0 to share experience ??


----------



## WishinItWas

The only "problem" is the AMP (HCP?) , or lack of it . Without that on my Rev 3.0 Im unable to do anything with the CPU from the BIOS aside from disabling dynamic throttling , cool &quiet ,etc. With the RAM I can put it in an "extreme" mode, but all that does is lock the ram timing to the factory specs instead of relaxing them automatically.

The board and BIOS its self is nice and fortunately with my current setup I don't NEED to OC ...but it is ver frustrating that I can not until another BIOS is released.

Side note: You can via Overdrive, however I do not prefer this and It only allows for multiplier OC and generic voltage tweaks.

Summary: The board is awesome, the current BIOS has handicapped it!


----------



## itomic

Do u have UD 3 or UD5 ? Maybe UD5 and UD7 does not have that handicappe !


----------



## WishinItWas

I have the UD3 , Revision 3.0


----------



## itomic

Did u contact Gigabyte, will there be BIOS relase wich will fix this ?


----------



## WishinItWas

Someone mentioned a few pages back about contacting them. During lunch today I went to the website but in my laziness did not see an email address, only a phone number so I have not contacted them.

I really hope a release that actually utilizes the functionality of the board will be coming out. I have no idea what the timeline would be though.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

I've been talking to tech support about rev 3.0 ud3 problems and they are looking into it now. Now we wait.


----------



## boisssy

hey guys i just purchased this mobo and started ocing with my current build

the weird problem i have is when i put my ram in in 2x2 in slots 1 and 2 (out of 4) it detects the ram which is 4gb total, but in cpuz it says only single channel.

so i take out the ram put it in slots 3 and 4 and it still says single channel in cpuz but still detects 4gb ram total

so i put it in slots 1 and 3 and voila it says dual channel in cpuz and total of 4gbs

is it suppose to work like that? or am i missing something?


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boisssy*
> 
> hey guys i just purchased this mobo and started ocing with my current build
> 
> the weird problem i have is when i put my ram in in 2x2 in slots 1 and 2 (out of 4) it detects the ram which is 4gb total, but in cpuz it says only single channel.
> 
> so i take out the ram put it in slots 3 and 4 and it still says single channel in cpuz but still detects 4gb ram total
> 
> so i put it in slots 1 and 3 and voila it says dual channel in cpuz and total of 4gbs
> 
> is it suppose to work like that? or am i missing something?


As the slots skip numbers... in order on the board 1,3,2,4; I am not going to assume you are looking at the boards numbering scheme properly or are just counting 1 to 4 in order. I am going to believe you are putting them in as you expect you are. I know that if I questioned this, I would first verify I put them all in the correct slots by number. Also, my BIG question is what does the BIOS say the RAM is running when you boot it up. To see this, you will have to shut off the quick bios option and let it scan the RAM....
If you have a rev 3 board (I don't) it is new, and I have heard people complain about BIOS issues. So I wouldn't be surprised if software running in windows wasn't reading it properly and check what the BIOS is telling you when the PC is first turned on.
Open this manual and go to page 16. Memory config for UD3 Rev3 board
http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-990fxa-ud3_v.3.x_e.pdf

Due to CPU limitations, read the following guidelines before installing the memory in Dual Channel mode.
1. Dual Channel mode cannot be enabled if only one DDR3 memory module is installed.
2. When enabling Dual Channelmode with two or fourmemorymodules, it is recommended thatmemory
of the same capacity, brand, speed, and chips be used for optimum performance. For optimum performance, when enabling Dual Channel mode with two memory modules, we recommend that you
install them in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_2 sockets.


----------



## boisssy

yeah my bios detects 4gb ram total along with every other software

i am reading it 1,2,3,4 and not by 1,3,2,4 which is the correct way?

i have the rev 3 board

"install them in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_2 sockets." which would be 1,3,2,4 right?


----------



## sdcalihusker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boisssy*
> 
> yeah my bios detects 4gb ram total along with every other software
> 
> i am reading it 1,2,3,4 and not by 1,3,2,4 which is the correct way?
> 
> i have the rev 3 board
> 
> "install them in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_2 sockets." which would be 1,3,2,4 right?


I also have the Rev 3 board. If the 4GB memory is correct but it is not showing dual-channel, you will need to alternate the slots they are in. On my board (Left from the CPU), I have slots 2 and 4 filled, with 1 and 3 empty. Mine shows as dual-channel.

What I would recommend is putting them in slots 2 and 4, or 1 and 3. If you currently have them in 1 and 2, or 3 and 4, it is single channel configuration.


----------



## krajlevic

It depends your mobo, but sometimes it works like that check your manual, the right combinations are mentionned.

Edit: I haven't see the answer


----------



## krajlevic

Overclocking sessions::

Disabling the throttle core.

All voltages in Auto, 1.376v under load in windows for 4400MHz with only the multiplier at 22x.

I've got a Scythe Rasetsu @ minimum so 400-1200 trs/min : 41° C under load (fritz chess benchmark)

A third Temp is oscillating widely and strangely from 19°C idle to 56°C under charge, I read that it could be VRM temp and definetly not the NB, I presume.

Next step some IBT and Linpack test.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boisssy*
> 
> hey guys i just purchased this mobo and started ocing with my current build
> 
> the weird problem i have is when i put my ram in in 2x2 in slots 1 and 2 (out of 4) it detects the ram which is 4gb total, but in cpuz it says only single channel.
> 
> so i take out the ram put it in slots 3 and 4 and it still says single channel in cpuz but still detects 4gb ram total
> 
> so i put it in slots 1 and 3 and voila it says dual channel in cpuz and total of 4gbs
> 
> is it suppose to work like that? or am i missing something?


Yes. *Read your Motherboard User Handbook* before you build.

Long story short you were not using the right Slot's for dual channel support, So it was only showing up as single channel. Now that you have switched the RAM to the proper slots its able to work properly as dual channel.


----------



## WishinItWas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boisssy*
> 
> yeah my bios detects 4gb ram total along with every other software
> 
> i am reading it 1,2,3,4 and not by 1,3,2,4 which is the correct way?
> 
> i have the rev 3 board
> 
> "install them in the DDR3_1 and DDR3_2 sockets." which would be 1,3,2,4 right?


EyeCU247 already answered this but I will provide a pic for reference, like it states in the manual and its also indicated next to the slots on the actual board. You need to use slot #1 and #2 .

The order on the Rev 3 board(again clearly indicated) is 4,2,3,1 with viewed with the CPU socket to the left of the DIMM's , again your RAM needs to be in slot #1 and #2.

Please see the images


----------



## sdcalihusker

What WishinItWas has posted is exactly how my memory is set up for dual channel. Thanks for the reference pic. I also see that I had the layout wrong. I said left of the CPU, but it is in fact to the right.


----------



## boisssy

ah i see now, so i have mine in 4 and 2 >.< is that a problem or should i move it to 1 and 3?

thanks for heads up


----------



## WishinItWas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boisssy*
> 
> ah i see now, so i have mine in 4 and 2 >.< is that a problem or should i move it to 1 and 3?


can't tell if you're trolling at this point......Move it to 1 and 2.....


----------



## sdcalihusker

Move it to DDR3_1 and DDR3_2 (just in case you aren't trolling).


----------



## MadGoat

i wonder if your counting the slots and not realizing that the slots are numbered out of order...


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> i wonder if your counting the slots and not realizing that the slots are numbered out of order...


I am hoping hes not just messing with us, and just hasn't found (or looked) at the labels on the MB...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> I am hoping hes not just messing with us, and just hasn't found (or looked) at the labels on the MB...


There have been a string of new post's in here, by new members(to ocn.net) that make me think troll...


----------



## boisssy

nono i mean its working in dual channel right now

but since my mobo is laid out like 4,2,3,1 i have it in slots 4 and 3

it works fine 4gb ram detected dual channel, but will there be any difference if i put it in 2 and 1?


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boisssy*
> 
> nono i mean its working in dual channel right now
> 
> but since my mobo is laid out like 4,2,3,1 i have it in slots 4 and 3
> 
> it works fine 4gb ram detected dual channel, but will there be any difference if i put it in 2 and 1?


If you read page 16 on the manual I posted it explained everything you have asked thus far, including Gigabyte's recommendations on what slots to use if only running two cards (in dual channel) as you are asking right now. Save time, and do it right the first time, read the manual.


----------



## Mandrake7062

Anyone try one of these water blocks yet?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Anyone try one of these water blocks yet?
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html


EK products are a horrible investment. Not even worth the time you spent to find it.

They have less than decent quality control and love to blame coustomer's when their crappy nickle plating flake's off and clogs up your loop.


----------



## hurricane28

dont bother watercooling,

a good aircooler and a good case with enough airflow is the best.

mine system dousnt get hotter than 40 cpu and videocard 45


----------



## Mandrake7062

I have a 45mm rad on the cpu now and it it is around 9deg c when at idel but if you think EK nickle is bad, I'll take your word for it, thanks.
I was sucked it by the 40degree savings they showed over stock.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> I have a 45mm rad on the cpu now and it it is around 9deg c when at idel but if you think EK nickle is bad, I'll take your word for it, thanks.
> I was sucked it by the 40degree savings they showed over stock.


Do some google searching on EK blocks.

They has a MASSIVE issue and instead of correcting the problem they blamed all their faithful customer's for the nickle plating failing. Some reputable PC parts/Water cooling parts vendor's actually dropped EK products from their shelves.

Water cooling would do much much better than air cooling but I would look for another product from your board.

Also its advised to have 120mm of rad space per Water Block/component in your loop + 120mm overflow.
Example: cooling a CPU its advised to use 240MM of rad space. For a CPU+ GPU loop use 360MM or rad space. You can break it up in to however many rad's you like but more radiator's/fittings/blocks require more head pressure from the pump. 1GPH is idea in most loops.

EDITED: corrected a type in the example.


----------



## hurricane28

hmm oke i hear u.

Maybe the self build systems are better yes but the corsair h100 etc. would simply not do in a high end system above aircooling.

I was wondering where i could buy such watercooling sets for hole my system inc NB and SB because it looks cool









i have gigabyte 990FXA-ud3 motherboard.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hmm oke i hear u.
> 
> Maybe the self build systems are better yes but the corsair h100 etc. would simply not do in a high end system above aircooling.
> 
> I was wondering where i could buy such watercooling sets for hole my system inc NB and SB because it looks cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have gigabyte 990FXA-ud3 motherboard.


I can say that most CLC's like the Corsair H100 are on par with or less than high end air cooling.

The new Corsair H100i might be different though but I dought it. The old H100 was a degree or two cooler than Air Cooler's like the Silver Arrow but did it at about twice the noise level.

The closest thing to a kit your going to find is going to be a RASA kit. I don't know of any kit on the market that has mobo blocks included. Most people only WaterCool the CPU and GPU(s). Cooling the mobo is kind of a pain and adding RAM to a loop is just silly.

The best thing I can tell you is start reading, A LOT! Custom water cooling is complicated and has many variables that must be attended to or your asking for trouble.


----------



## hurricane28

Ye i hear u

I have AMD FX 6200 clocked at 4.6 ghz cooled with cooler master hyper 212 evo and dont get hotter than 35c

A good airflow in the case would be necessary for a good cooling with air cooling.

i was just curious about that and yes it can ruin everything i know, maybe in the future i would do that but for now im good


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ye i hear u
> 
> I have AMD FX 6200 clocked at 4.6 ghz cooled with cooler master hyper 212 evo and dont get hotter than 35c
> 
> A good airflow in the case would be necessary for a good cooling with air cooling.
> 
> i was just curious about that and yes it can ruin everything i know, maybe in the future i would do that but for now im good


That 212 evo is a pretty good cooler. I use one on my AMD 955BE


----------



## hurricane28

yes it is its amazing value for ur money indeed

i was thinking of a good cooler for a good price and came up to this and just tried it and i am verry pleased with it









performs excellent.


----------



## itomic

That number just cant bu true at all !! 3 module 6 core CPU clocked to 4.6Ghz must be wormer then 36C. Dont be foold by false readings.


----------



## Mandrake7062

Thanks KKomp,
I was actually more curious about head pressure then water, the push/pull on the 240x45 is running fine but when I saw the small bottleneck in the nbridge block I was a bit curious about the head pressure. I wish more companies made the blocks for GB but so far that one was thee only one I had come across. If you know of a better one I would be very interested. I have a CM932 so there is plenty of room and air, and the bay res. is still leaving the cas wide open.


----------



## hurricane28

belive me its not in idle its 30 32 and when i am gaming its not hotter than 35 i have sensors on my cpu and gpu and those temps are pretty good and accurate.

i have a verry good airflow in my case btw i have corsair carbide 300R case its a gamers case and its pretty awesome


----------



## Mandrake7062

The hottest I've seen mine is 37c after hours of gaming.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> The hottest I've seen mine is 37c after hours of gaming.


oke but u have watercooling? or airooling?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> Thanks KKomp,
> I was actually more curious about head pressure then water, the push/pull on the 240x45 is running fine but when I saw the small bottleneck in the nbridge block I was a bit curious about the head pressure. I wish more companies made the blocks for GB but so far that one was thee only one I had come across. If you know of a better one I would be very interested. I have a CM932 so there is plenty of room and air, and the bay res. is still leaving the cas wide open.


There are some universal blocks that will fit the UD3 but I cannot remember who make's them, I have abandonded the idea of water cooling my UD3 and am going to do just a CPU and GPU loop.


----------



## Fordox

EK:
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?mb_mbs=425

not from EK: koolance chc122


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> EK:
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?mb_mbs=425
> 
> not from EK: koolance chc122


+1 on the universal block link.

Might have to try it out at that price.


----------



## Mandrake7062

I didn't see that configurator before nice. They don't have the 990fxa-ud7 in there though, dang it.

Ohh crap they do..
http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?mb_mbs=424


----------



## hurricane28

well that looks verry good

but i dont see any hoses orso i dont know anything about water cooling a pc it would be quite good tho.

but cooling the mobo is not possible the sb is not supported by those blocks.

is there not a site where u can buy complete sets? or with hoses orso?


----------



## hurricane28

sorry haha i was to fast with that one.

good site man! i hope i can find something complete hehe thnx for the site!


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> well that looks verry good
> 
> but i dont see any hoses orso i dont know anything about water cooling a pc it would be quite good tho.
> 
> but cooling the mobo is not possible the sb is not supported by those blocks.
> 
> is there not a site where u can buy complete sets? or with hoses orso?


Yes, I have water cooling and II understand you getting good results with your fan sink. That's excellent.









I don't think they are piping the SBridge because the tubes will interfere with the gpu or they feel it won't need it because the NBridge throws all the heat.


----------



## Pudfark

Speaking of Northbridge temps?
I'm running a AMD 8350 @ 4.6 ghz on a 990FXA UD3 rev 1.1 F9 bios
Cooling with Corsair H110 in a Antec LanBoy case...Four 120mm fans blowing directly
on the Mother board...with an Antec "spot fan" on the VRMs on high speed...also have
on the rear of the case a 120mm fan set as exhaust.

Under Prime95 stress test....My TEMP3 has gone to 67C...then two cores shut down to almost zero.
The other temps are at or under 40C. I have looked here on the forum and folks indicate that TEMP3
is the Northbridge? Should I be concerned with this? My voltage to the CPU is 1.445

I suppose I'm just looking for some reassurance or a solution to the higher than expected "Northbridge" temp.

Thank You


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Speaking of Northbridge temps?
> I'm running a AMD 8350 @ 4.6 ghz on a 990FXA UD3 rev 1.1 F9 bios
> Cooling with Corsair H110 in a Antec LanBoy case...Four 120mm fans blowing directly
> on the Mother board...with an Antec "spot fan" on the VRMs on high speed...also have
> on the rear of the case a 120mm fan set as exhaust.
> 
> Under Prime95 stress test....My TEMP3 has gone to 67C...then two cores shut down to almost zero.
> The other temps are at or under 40C. I have looked here on the forum and folks indicate that TEMP3
> is the Northbridge? Should I be concerned with this? My voltage to the CPU is 1.445
> 
> I suppose I'm just looking for some reassurance or a solution to the higher than expected "Northbridge" temp.
> 
> Thank You


Voltage to the CPU will have no affect on the north bridge. Gigabyte tested the NB on these boards to 80 or 85c.. memory fails me at the moment.

Don't confuse your North Bridge with your CPU-NB..

I personally don't think your north bridge is causing your 2 core's to fail, I would look else where.


----------



## stubass

hey all,
i have ordered a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 3 in which i want to use for some benching of AMD CPU's.

loooking at pics of the board there are 7 what could be LED's to the right or top of the last two dimm slots. i can tell from the image even zoomed so what exactly are they?


----------



## Pudfark

@ KKomputing

Thank You...I will explore the CPU-NB.
Much appreciate your time.


----------



## ML241

Hello all.

Is there a BIOS that works best with unlocking cores on the Phenom 2 series? I have a 555 that unlocks on multiple boards but wont on my UD3 Rev 1.1.


----------



## itomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Speaking of Northbridge temps?
> I'm running a AMD 8350 @ 4.6 ghz on a 990FXA UD3 rev 1.1 F9 bios
> Cooling with Corsair H110 in a Antec LanBoy case...Four 120mm fans blowing directly
> on the Mother board...with an Antec "spot fan" on the VRMs on high speed...also have
> on the rear of the case a 120mm fan set as exhaust.
> 
> Under Prime95 stress test....My TEMP3 has gone to 67C...then two cores shut down to almost zero.
> The other temps are at or under 40C. I have looked here on the forum and folks indicate that TEMP3
> is the Northbridge? Should I be concerned with this? My voltage to the CPU is 1.445
> 
> I suppose I'm just looking for some reassurance or a solution to the higher than expected "Northbridge" temp.
> 
> Thank You


Im 99% sure that Tmpin2 isnt NB temperature. When i stress test, at say 4.0Ghz i get Tmpin2 to about 45C. But, when i touch NB heatsink with my finger, its very and i mean very hot. Its certanly more then 45C. Tmpin2 is CPU socket temp, and none of this temps r NB temperatures. It can be VRM , but for sure not NB temperatue.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> +1 on the universal block link.
> 
> Might have to try it out at that price.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> I didn't see that configurator before nice. They don't have the 990fxa-ud7 in there though, dang it.
> 
> Ohh crap they do..
> http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/step1_complist?mb_mbs=424


no problem









@above:
I am also still confused. many forum members and official tema members from gigabyte has said that the tmpin3 the NB is, and the tmpin2 the cpu is.
I find it hard to believe, although they come with valid posts and examples. It could be correct, but my sensors are all just giving me the finger if it comes to certain temperatures. Gigabytes official programs read out that tmpin3 is the cpu, and aida64 and all the official people say it is tmpin2... (cpu temp)

so i would like to see a overclocked 8120/8150/8320/8350 with a tmpin temperature above the 70 degrees before i can believe it... maybe one day i will reseat the NB heatsink and see the diffrence and PROOF it.


----------



## WishinItWas

I would love to OC my 8350 ......but im on a Rev3.0 board :/


----------



## Pudfark

@iItomic & Fordox

Thanks for your replies. I'm hoping someone can post a definitive link on this problem.
I believe if I can find it, I can cool it..

My H110 has been installed for about 20 hours of use, so far.
I had a H100i before it with fan/usb problems. The idle and normal
use temps are great. It's only under severe testing that temp3 gets
out of control. Lot's of folks talk about hot VRMs...I have an Antec
Spot Fan on mine...they seem cool. I realize there is some disagreement
in the community here about what Temp3 is or could be. Is it possible,
to tell me, as a certainty, what Temp3 is not? Process of elimination?

Thank You All


----------



## noobdown

Any one having a problem with the multiplyer down clocking with these boards with all power saving features turned off?


----------



## itomic

On rmbos rev 1.0. 1.1 and 1.2 u have to disable APM, on Rev 3.0 theres no solution yet. New BIOS will fix it, we hope.


----------



## sdcalihusker

Question for you guys. I have the GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 3.0 board, which I have been running stable with 2x8 GB Intel Extreme Masters 1600MHz DDR3 at 1680MHz. The question I have is have any of you managed to use 4x4GB 1688MHz memory on this motherboard with any success? I'm thinking of picking up a kit of 1866MHz, but want the option of either 2x8 GB or 4x4 GB for 16GB total.

I bought some 2133MHz in a 4x4 config, but could not get it to run stable with all 4 modules installed, even at 1600MHz. I then checked the Gigabyte website and found that this board can only run up to 2000MHz. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> *Im 99% sure that Temp isnt NB temperature. When i stress test at say 4.0Ghz i got Temp3 to about 45C. But, when i touch NH heatsink with my finger its very and i mean very hot. Its certanly more then 45C. Temp is CPU socket temp and none of this temps r NB temperatures. It can be VRM , but for sure not NB temperature.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> no problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @above:
> *I am also still confused. many forum members and official tema members from gigabyte has said that the tmpin3 the NB is, and the tmpin2 the cpu is.
> I find it hard to believe, although they come with valid posts and examples. It could be correct, but my sensors are all just giving me the finger if it comes to certain temperatures. Gigabytes official programs read out that tmpin3 is the cpu, and aida64 and all the official people say it is tmpin2... (cpu temp)
> 
> so i would like to see a overclocked 8120/8150/8320/8350 with a tmpin temperature above the 70 degrees before i can believe it... maybe one day i will reseat the NB heatsink and see the diffrence and PROOF it.*


Not all this nonsense again.. First, refer to the sensors as labeld on the board... Makes this less confusing


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp



Second, IF TMPIN02 was actually reading out the CPU socket my 955BE/UD3 would have died a fiery death ages ago. a Phenom II 955 BE @ 4.0Ghz would not last very long at all running 24/7 with heavy usage if the temps were getting into the upper 70c range. The silly thing would have shut off before then.


----------



## InsideJob

Guys anyone have any idea what this screen is about? I get it every time I try to unlock my 960t (extra cores are confirmed there on old room mates asus m4a88m). I get the post screen for a brief second then it switched to this screen and then repeats the process. I cannot access the bios at all during the brief moment of the post screen I've tried MANY times. So I have to shut down, clear cmos and reset settings. Help would be appreciated I really wanna get this working.



I also noticed while I had the side panel off, my NB heatsink gets very warm to the touch and I wasn't even doing any stress testing or anything and have no voltage increase on the NB at all. HW monitor reads 22°c for TMPIN2 which I believe is the NB which is definitely not correct after feeling the heatsink itself.


----------



## Mandrake7062

@KKomp, why to they show such a difference in cpu temp then? Or does AMD Package temp staand for another type of temp measurement.


----------



## Fordox

amd package temps isn't correct, it is below ambient wich is impossible.


----------



## MadGoat

Package temp is off,

Mine reads 10c below the correct reading as well. Either the board has something to do with it, or there are some messed up AMD chips with bonkers temps sensors.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

These boards have issue's with some temp programs... This contributes to people debating what sensor is what.

With my board HardwareMonitor reads TIMPIN01 and 02 up to 250c on stress testing. AMD overdrive reads all temp sensors to be 10c lower than actual readings. Open HardwareMonitor reads the closest to right in my case. Its a YMMV situation though.

From reading on here and other forums I'm thinking that each board reacts to temp monitoring software differently, but this is just a theory with no real proof or backing.


----------



## Warped Trekker

Please help...
My UD3 Rev1.1 board suffered a BIOS problem. I was running Tune-up utilities in Win8, and rebooted. Upon rebooting, the board said it was doing a BIOS Recovery from backup! This is the oddest thing I've seen. I have the latest F10a beta bios on it, which I thought would have fixed this issue I was seeing with the previous bios.

Now Windows 8 will not boot! It boots to the user logon screen, then freezes. This happened on three different installs,. I tried disconnecting all devices and PCI cards, except for my SSD boot drive. Safe mode and repair mode will not work. I am about to RMA this thing back to NewEgg if I dont find a solution to these issues. Any thoughts?

Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev1.1 bios f10a
32GB PC1600 G.skill
AMD FX 8350 black edition
AMD 6950 PCI-e graphics
Mushkin 90GB SSD Callisto


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> Please help...
> My UD3 Rev1.1 board suffered a BIOS problem. I was running Tune-up utilities in Win8, and rebooted. Upon rebooting, the board said it was doing a BIOS Recovery from backup! This is the oddest thing I've seen. I have the latest F10a beta bios on it, which I thought would have fixed this issue I was seeing with the previous bios.
> 
> Now Windows 8 will not boot! It boots to the user logon screen, then freezes. This happened on three different installs,. I tried disconnecting all devices and PCI cards, except for my SSD boot drive. Safe mode and repair mode will not work. I am about to RMA this thing back to NewEgg if I dont find a solution to these issues. Any thoughts?
> 
> Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev1.1 bios f10a
> 32GB PC1600 G.skill
> AMD FX 8350 black edition
> AMD 6950 PCI-e graphics
> Mushkin 90GB SSD Callisto


Have you tried another OS?? try a linux live CD or something and see if the freeze comes back.


----------



## Warped Trekker

Okay, just tried a live cd, and that worked fine with no freezes. I guess its possible that the Tune-Up Utilities software was responsible for messing up the OS. It does go thru the registry and clean junk out and make changes. But the concern I have, is the BIOS also did a recovery from backup. What would have caused that? Certainly not the Tune-up software that runs under Windows.

Also when I got the board, I did not have Tune-up installed yet, and still was getting boot issues. I think the original BIOS was F8.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> Okay, just tried a live cd, and that worked fine with no freezes. I guess its possible that the Tune-Up Utilities software was responsible for messing up the OS. It does go thru the registry and clean junk out and make changes. But the concern I have, is the BIOS also did a recovery from backup. What would have caused that? Certainly not the Tune-up software that runs under Windows.
> 
> Also when I got the board, I did not have Tune-up installed yet, and still was getting boot issues. I think the original BIOS was F8.


i had the same sort problems with tune up crap

i used to be verry pleased with that program but after an new windows 7 instal it dos strange things on the pc like when i overclocked it said after a boot that windows has to be recovered

from what? i did not do anything the cpu or other stuff can handle so i installed a new windows and never install that crap again and now no issues more so take my advise and stay far away from tune up as u possibly can cos it is crap!


----------



## Warped Trekker

Ok thanks. im going to leave off tune-up this time. I also noticed that the board reverted back to F8 bios when it recovered. I tried to restore Win8 from a system image, but the windows recovery disc said that the board was in "bios" mode. It is not. I checked and have it set to EFI. So I cant restore from my image. I hope I can install the os with F8 bios. I am unable to find a F10a bios extracted. Gigabyte has it self zipped exe, and my android netbook cant unzip it. why gigabyte not post these files unzipped?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> Ok thanks. im going to leave off tune-up this time. I also noticed that the board reverted back to F8 bios when it recovered. I tried to restore Win8 from a system image, but the windows recovery disc said that the board was in "bios" mode. It is not. I checked and have it set to EFI. So I cant restore from my image. I hope I can install the os with F8 bios. I am unable to find a F10a bios extracted. Gigabyte has it self zipped exe, and my android netbook cant unzip it. why gigabyte not post these files unzipped?


yes it can do it, ur netbook can unzip it u need a app for that i dont know what the name is but when u look it up in the google store u can find it

i had some issues with my drivers so i downloaded it to my phone and set it to the computer as well so no problem.

what u can do is reset the bios maybe to turn off the pc and take out the battery and go look for the reset bios option on ur motherboard

hold a screw driver on it to reset it and ur all set to go i suppose.

or u can download the bios and unzip it to ur phone and when u do install maybe u can set the bios from there

just try something hope it will word out.


----------



## Mandrake7062

I'm new at this whole water cooling and hiding cables thing. I've always just thrown the together and buttoned it up.
You can tell by the way I bought those giant cathode stick instead of getting the right led strips that I could hide. hehe
Been trying to clean it up some.


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> On rmbos rev 1.0. 1.1 and 1.2 u have to disable APM, on Rev 3.0 theres no solution yet. New BIOS will fix it, we hope.


I turn hpc mode to on from disabled fix it. but I still cant oc with multiplyer pc wont boot.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mandrake7062*
> 
> I'm new at this whole water cooling and hiding cables thing. I've always just thrown the together and buttoned it up.
> You can tell by the way I bought those giant cathode stick instead of getting the right led strips that I could hide. hehe
> Been trying to clean it up some.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Cable managment and dealing with water cooling tubing are both forms of art. Take's lots of practice and creativity. Keep at it.


----------



## Warped Trekker

How do I flash the backup bios in UD3? I want both main and backup to have same version, because if my board rolls back to F8 again, i will be unable to boot Win8 and have to reinstall, since UEFI is not working correctly in F8 bios.


----------



## d1nky

hey guys im planning on buying the ud3 next week, main reason to crossfire. but my gfx card is a 3 slotter and a monster, I chose that board because the pcie slots are everywhere and hoping it could fit two asus direct cu2s in.

has anyone here got the same board and crossfire with big cards?
btw my psu is a chunk also! (pics on my profile)
Thanks


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> hey guys im planning on buying the ud3 next week, main reason to crossfire. but my gfx card is a 3 slotter and a monster, I chose that board because the pcie slots are everywhere and hoping it could fit two asus direct cu2s in.
> 
> has anyone here got the same board and crossfire with big cards?
> btw my psu is a chunk also! (pics on my profile)
> Thanks


Just looked at your photo and that card is a monster!! Holy Crap Batman! And you want to add another one of those? I can't help you except to say that maybe you can get the info you need off one of those Newegg videos of the board, as they tend to go through most of the specs. Good luck and that should be a hack of a rig!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> hey guys im planning on buying the ud3 next week, main reason to crossfire. but my gfx card is a 3 slotter and a monster, I chose that board because the pcie slots are everywhere and hoping it could fit two asus direct cu2s in.
> 
> has anyone here got the same board and crossfire with big cards?
> btw my psu is a chunk also! (pics on my profile)
> Thanks


2x 3 slot cards will not fit on a ud3. For that you want a ud7. It will fit two 3 slot cards perfectly with a slot in between them for ample airflow.


----------



## d1nky

thanks, youre actually the only person to tell me that! and I was about to purchase tomorrow.


----------



## d1nky

just checked prices etc urmm bit out of my league, will the UD5 work, or any other equivalent?


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> just checked prices etc urmm bit out of my league, will the UD5 work, or any other equivalent?


Worked for me. I just did this to open up the space for my dual slot gfx cards and no air flow and one card was getting to low 90sC. Had to put one in the 16x slot and the other in a 8x slot and only lost 1 or 2 fps in games. I guess current 16x bandwidth is not needed and only 8x is actually used. I now have 2 slopes between cards. In your case you will only have 1 slot.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1364107/7870-in-cs-fun-hot


----------



## Mandrake7062

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d1nky*
> 
> just checked prices etc urmm bit out of my league, will the UD5 work, or any other equivalent?


Maybe watch for a deal on it because I got it $50 cheaper then it's going for now..

And sorry just re-read my last post to you and I said "hack" I meant to say heck, sorry..


----------



## Warped Trekker

Ok, I got my UD3 going again with F10a bios. But if it ever decides to rollback to the backup bios, I'll be in trouble. Backup bios has F8, and would not boot into Win8 on my SSD using EFI.

Is there any way to easily update the backup bios, so both match? Is Gigabyte going to leave the bios in a "beta" state, or actually release a final version? My previous Gigabyte board, they came out with a "beta" bios and never updated it beyond that.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> Ok, I got my UD3 going again with F10a bios. But if it ever decides to rollback to the backup bios, I'll be in trouble. Backup bios has F8, and would not boot into Win8 on my SSD using EFI.
> 
> Is there any way to easily update the backup bios, so both match? Is Gigabyte going to leave the bios in a "beta" state, or actually release a final version? My previous Gigabyte board, they came out with a "beta" bios and never updated it beyond that.


You can update your backup bios by using a PSI keyboard and pressing "_Special Key_" during the BIOS POST tests. If done correctly you will see text on the screen asking you to copy the MAIN BIOS over the BACKUP BIOS.

I have done this on a 990FXA-UD3 1.2, 990FXA-UD5 1.1, and a 78LMT-USB3, and cannot remember the "Special Key". I want to say its F11, or F12, but really don't remember. I just skimmed the BIOS Section of the manual and remembered I couldn't find it in there when I updated my boards in the past.... My Googling helped me find it the last time and seem to failed me this time.
Sorry, but I really don't remember the special button but someone else on here may remember.


----------



## d1nky

ive got this question on two forums lol because I need to know before I buy! ive seen someone have the same cards crossfire on a P8Z77-V which has the same slot arrangement as the UD5, now I got to buy the cpu as well and could do with saving the price difference between each FXA series. I guess at the end of the day im just going to have to commit to the best deal and hopeeeeeeee lol


----------



## noobdown

Is it possible to flash a rev 3 ud3 to a rev 1.1 bios? or has any one tried?


----------



## black0ut

Getting a UD7 rev 1.1, what's the recommended bios for this guy? will be pairing it with a fx 6300 and will be overclocking


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> Is it possible to flash a rev 3 ud3 to a rev 1.1 bios? or has any one tried?


Rev 3 boards do not use a traditional Bios like the Rev 1.x boards do, so no you can't.
Rev 3 boards are a completely new way of doing things. Even more so then going from an x86 to x64.
UEFI is closer a small OS then what people think of as a BIOS. For example you can upgrade an old UEFI on rev 3 boards while using a new unsupported CPU. Maybe even without the CPU installed? I have no idea as I have never used one but it's what I have heard.. Upgrading with out a cpu...

www.uefi.org/home/

Edit:
I think I am only right and the yes/no but not right on the specifics. Like I said I never used, and my recent research sort of counters what what I said.


----------



## L3ibnitZ

Hello everyone,

i bought the UD3 about 10 days ago because i wanted to overclock my phenom2 x4 945. That wasn't possible before because my previous board (m2r32-mvp) didn't support the phenom officially.
So now i overclocked it to 3.8GHz @ 1.52V(1.475 in Bios) and i hoped to get 4GHz out of it, do you know something to optimize or should i just be happy with my result?

images say more than words:


----------



## Warped Trekker

I have another issue. UD3 is loading Win8 Pro very, very slow. Takes like 20min to get to desktop. This is with a SSD and 32gb ram. F10a bios. What could be causing this to boot so slow? Once it is up, if I reboot, it is fine. It is only slow, from a cold boot.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> I have another issue. UD3 is loading Win8 Pro very, very slow. Takes like 20min to get to desktop. This is with a SSD and 32gb ram. F10a bios. What could be causing this to boot so slow? Once it is up, if I reboot, it is fine. It is only slow, from a cold boot.


Change the SSD drive settings from ACHI to IDE and see if that helps


----------



## Warped Trekker

Win8 was installed in AHCI mode on. I wouldn't be able to boot if I change it to ide.And I really dont feel like installing again. if no one has any other suggestions im going to issue an RMA to newegg and purchase something else.


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> Is it possible to flash a rev 3 ud3 to a rev 1.1 bios? or has any one tried?
> 
> 
> 
> Rev 3 boards do not use a traditional Bios like the Rev 1.x boards do, so no you can't.
> Rev 3 boards are a completely new way of doing things. Even more so then going from an x86 to x64.
> UEFI is closer a small OS then what people think of as a BIOS. For example you can upgrade an old UEFI on rev 3 boards while using a new unsupported CPU. Maybe even without the CPU installed? I have no idea as I have never used one but it's what I have heard.. Upgrading with out a cpu...
> 
> www.uefi.org/home/
> 
> Edit:
> I think I am only right and the yes/no but not right on the specifics. Like I said I never used, and my recent research sort of counters what what I said.
Click to expand...

I figured as much cause of the new bios. Thanks for confirming it. gigabyte gotta get their arses in gear and make a bios worth have and not just pretty.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> Win8 was installed in AHCI mode on. I wouldn't be able to boot if I change it to ide.And I really dont feel like installing again. if no one has any other suggestions im going to issue an RMA to newegg and purchase something else.


I have changed this setting back and forth from IDE to AHCI with out issue in the past...
But if you are going to RMA the MB and have to re install windows any way, whats with changing the setting and seeing what happens?
If it doesn't work, just put the setting back and pop in a spare new drive, and try it again in IDE as a test.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> Win8 was installed in AHCI mode on. I wouldn't be able to boot if I change it to ide.And I really dont feel like installing again. if no one has any other suggestions im going to issue an RMA to newegg and purchase something else.


u can do an disc scan just to be sertain it is not ur disc that fails

also u can do an atto test see if u got the right speeds if not and u connect it to ur sata3 port than its ur disc

i had the same problem and could not get the right speeds did everything until i did the test and it shows 8 fault locasions

so i looked it up and they said its oke, well ITS NOT OK i send it back to the store and said its broken they did not even ask questions

and replaced it thats service of OCZ.


----------



## Baby Jai

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894# NOT detecting a Sata HDD, but it detects all my other drives with no problems, SSD's btw. Dont know why this is. I have to unplug it while in windows and replug it in for it to work and recognize it.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baby Jai*
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894# NOT detecting a Sata HDD, but it detects all my other drives with no problems, SSD's btw. Dont know why this is. I have to unplug it while in windows and replug it in for it to work and recognize it.


hm strange,

did u put everything in ahci and sata type in ur bios?

it should detect ur hdd


----------



## Baby Jai

yup tried it 1000000 times, no matter what i do, no matter what sata port i put it in, nothing. I have the latest bios FB and the latest chipset. Ive turned off Marvell tried just SB and nothing. Its in port03 and when i go to the bios, on the systems ata configuration it doesnt show the HDD. Here is the funny part, if i hot plug it not and RESTART it it shows, if i shut down and restart nothing.


----------



## hurricane28

thats strange man

there is nothing wrong with ur board or ssd's?

u can run disc test to see if there is anything wrong or change sata cables it is the little things mostly

how is ur power supply? it can be so much realy if that dous not help i dont know eighter

u should test them and if that is not do it or maybe the board is ****ed or ur ssd's have fault


----------



## Baby Jai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> thats strange man
> 
> there is nothing wrong with ur board or ssd's?
> 
> u can run disc test to see if there is anything wrong or change sata cables it is the little things mostly
> 
> how is ur power supply? it can be so much realy if that dous not help i dont know eighter
> 
> u should test them and if that is not do it or maybe the board is ****ed or ur ssd's have fault


ok wellthe SSd's 2 250's and 512gb WORK great and are detected, so is the Blu Ray drive. All good on boot, the HDD no. Does not work at all during boot, only on hotplug and on restart it stays good to go. Disc test? Whats this you speak of? Power supply is the Corsair CX750 Builder Series ATX 80 PLUS Bronze, brand new. I have tried the SAME power cable with the working sata drives and does not work. I have even tried using a DEDICATED sata. Nothing.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baby Jai*
> 
> ok wellthe SSd's 2 250's and 512gb WORK great and are detected, so is the Blu Ray drive. All good on boot, the HDD no. Does not work at all during boot, only on hotplug and on restart it stays good to go. Disc test? Whats this you speak of? Power supply is the Corsair CX750 Builder Series ATX 80 PLUS Bronze, brand new. I have tried the SAME power cable with the working sata drives and does not work. I have even tried using a DEDICATED sata. Nothing.


u sure its sata drive?

maybe u should try to boot in ide mode or something.

or else i realy dont know

and when its detected u should try an hdd test to see if its working correctly


----------



## Baby Jai

well, it has only one type of connection on the back of it, sata and sata power. Also i had it in my other machine fine. I can do a hotplug then do a test. Tried putting in ide mode in ports 0-3 and nothing happened.


----------



## Baby Jai

ok im getting somewhere now, i forget to mention this, on port 0 and port 1 is 2 250Gb Samsung SSD's being detected, on a HUNCH, I disconnect port 0 and put it on the HDD, VIOLA, shows it now. So why is it doing this? When I plug in the 2 250;s it wont detect all 3.


----------



## hurricane28

strange

to be honest i dont know man

it should detect all 3 so its very strange it must be a set up in the bios but wish one i realy dont know


----------



## Baby Jai

I think it's in he settings why it's not working of I have one of them in the wrong port since 2 of them are EXACTLY the same disks, I think if I got other disks different sizes I could fix this whole mix up, or maybe somehow override the amount is on he hard drive reported to the bios, I know tree has to be a fx for this. I


----------



## Warped Trekker

I think I found the issue to my slow Windows 8 boot. In Win8 System Logs, there was an event that said the system came out of a low-power state. Well, I have sleep/standby/hibernate all disabled. So I checked my BIOS settings for other power options.

In the BIOS, in Power Management, there is an option called *"ErP Support"*. When enabled, the system will use less than <1w when powered off, and WOL will also be disabled. I disabled ErP Support, and now the system boots up fast from a cold boot.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> I think I found the issue to my slow Windows 8 boot. In Win8 System Logs, there was an event that said the system came out of a low-power state. Well, I have sleep/standby/hibernate all disabled. So I checked my BIOS settings for other power options.
> 
> In the BIOS, in Power Management, there is an option called *"ErP Support"*. When enabled, the system will use less than <1w when powered off, and WOL will also be disabled. I disabled ErP Support, and now the system boots up fast from a cold boot.


That's a new one on me. I know that's disabled in my bios already but it obviously effects more that what is expected. Curious now on how all that works.
Thanks for following up.


----------



## boisssy

hey guys im trying to oc my 1055t, but the bios wont let me increase the ht link or the cpu nb. it only allows me to go to 100-2000mhz & auto.

ive tried to look around the bios settings and everything but it wont let me pass those numbers

any suggestions? thank you


----------



## noobdown

As you change your fsb speed it will raise. the board wont let you go past manufactors setting with out ocing.


----------



## boisssy

ah i see, in cpuz it shows higher speeds, i guess i leave it in auto o.o


----------



## Baby Jai

ok an update on the situation, apparently Gigabyte is TELLING me that I need to format the drive. Its not detecting on cold boot because the computer it WAS ON has loaded those drivers on the HDD, this is why its detected via plug in hot. Does this make sense, it seems logical, whether or not its right is another story.


----------



## Mandrake7062

Baby Jai,
I had to use the bios boot selector to get the computer going and windows installed.


----------



## Baby Jai

yeah my problem is the drive im talking about its the issue of firmware apparently


----------



## boisssy

hey guys yet another question









currently ocing trial and error getting used to the mobo, but i have 1 concern im currently at 3.5ghz and my temps do not show in core temp, hw monitor and the windows 7 widget. All 3 says 0 nothing would read. Is it normal for the mobo not to give the temps?

thanks!

p.s it doesn't show on lower clocks as well i.e 3.3ghz


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boisssy*
> 
> hey guys yet another question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> currently ocing trial and error getting used to the mobo, but i have 1 concern im currently at 3.5ghz and my temps do not show in core temp, hw monitor and the windows 7 widget. All 3 says 0 nothing would read. Is it normal for the mobo not to give the temps?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> p.s it doesn't show on lower clocks as well i.e 3.3ghz


by any chance... do you have the "unlock cores" on bios settings activated?


----------



## unknown601

I own a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 http://valid.canardpc.com/2710060


----------



## CasperGS

Goal is to get to 5ghz, fx8350, ga-990fxa-ud3 rev3.0 Im at 4.4ghz stable @19c idle. Newbe to the different bios. All extra settings in bios are disabled power save etc. All drivers are upto date and running the FB bios as well. Ram timing set: though not sure if its correct



Any help would be great.


----------



## itomic

Why do u assume that every FX 8350 must go up to 5.0Ghz ?


----------



## CasperGS

Because Ive seen them in cpid lists


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Goal is to get to 5ghz, fx8350, ga-990fxa-ud3 rev3.0 Im at 4.4ghz stable @19c idle. Newbe to the different bios. All extra settings in bios are disabled power save etc. All drivers are upto date and running the FB bios as well. Ram timing set: though not sure if its correct
> 
> 
> 
> Any help would be great.


When you stress test your CPU, does your frequency go up and down like crazy? Or do you have one steady smooth frequency?


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> When you stress test your CPU, does your frequency go up and down like crazy? Or do you have one steady smooth frequency?


smooth, under load 45c to 50c.
Since Im new to this UEFI bios, how does one adjust voltage? I probably looked at it 1000 times now but it eludes me.


----------



## WishinItWas

If you're on Revision 3 you can't adjust voltages in the current bios. Check back 10 pages or so we have all been discussing the frustration.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WishinItWas*
> 
> If you're on Revision 3 you can't adjust voltages in the current bios. Check back 10 pages or so we have all been discussing the frustration.


Got it...I knew it was possible....whew


----------



## boisssy

yeah its activated

anything else i should check off?

my computer is slow to boot as well, and i have to press the power button twice to turn it on. Im not planning to stay at 3.5ghz, it's just that i want to fish out any problems that may occur when i go higher

so for now im stuck at 3.5 with these issues, though it seems stable atm


----------



## InsideJob

Okay, so here's the proof my CPU unlocks, got access to my old roomies board and frankenstein'd a setup with it.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Okay, so here's the proof my CPU unlocks, got access to my old roomies board and frankenstein'd a setup with it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I couldn't find the original question. I'm going to assume the question is "why won't my CPU unlock on this board but not another".

Assuming I'm right: Just because a CPU can unlock on one board it might not unlock on another board. Things like BIOS version, and how the unlocking feature is implemented play a part in each individual unlock.


----------



## InsideJob

So much frustration/disappointment in my unlocking adventures. Ah well, gotta keep remembering to keep myself from holding expectations. If this m4a88t-m can handle a decent overclock on this chip at 5 cores I may decide to keep it


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> So much frustration/disappointment in my unlocking adventures. Ah well, gotta keep remembering to keep myself from holding expectations. If this m4a88t-m can handle a decent overclock on this chip at 5 cores I may decide to keep it


Do you have a specific need for a 5 or 6 core chip? Are you just messing with it/benching or are you trying to get best performance for a specific set of task's or goals?

If the latter of the two is correct, lock it back down as a quad and crank the the clock speed and CPU-NB as far as you can get them and enjoy a much snappier machine than a lower clocked 5 core. Unlocked CPU's usually won't oc as well as when they are locked, and most applications in the real world wont take advantage of more than 4 core's.

Or, ditch the 960t for a BD 6 core if you need moar cores (folding/encoding or similar).


----------



## InsideJob

I was hoping to see higher performance while gaming and streaming or recording gameplay specifically.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I was hoping to see higher performance while gaming and streaming or recording gameplay specifically.


Depending on what games and how you stream/record them you might need to move farther up the AMD chain. with an unlocked 5 core your in an interesting situation. Most modern game's use 4 threads, that leaves only a single thread for streaming/recording while playing. How far can you push your OC on 5 cores?


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Depending on what games and how you stream/record them you might need to move farther up the AMD chain. with an unlocked 5 core your in an interesting situation. Most modern game's use 4 threads, that leaves only a single thread for streaming/recording while playing. How far can you push your OC on 5 cores?


I couldn't overclock the chip at all after unlocking it on that board. Which left me at the same performance as at quad overclocked to 4ghz. I stream using xsplit and twitch and record using afterburner (only if recording while not streaming otherwise twitch conveniently records stream sessions)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I couldn't overclock the chip at all after unlocking it on that board. Which left me at the same performance as at quad overclocked to 4ghz. I stream using xsplit and twitch and record using afterburner (only if recording while not streaming otherwise twitch conveniently records stream sessions)


Yea, you need to move up to a faster CPU. I would look at bagging a 6-8 core BD. I'll bet that the 7970 also put's a hurting on the 960T as it is!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Yea, you need to move up to a faster CPU. I would look at bagging a 6-8 core BD. I'll bet that the 7970 also put's a hurting on the 960T as it is!


Yeah I think I'm going to wait and see what AMD pulls out of the bag this time around, or if I can snag an 8350 cheap I may just do that.

As for the 7970, I didn't have a bottleneck in my system when I was running a 560ti but at the last OCN lan at the courtesy of the AMD Radeon rep I scored this 7970 in trade of my 560ti which I couldn't say no to obviously. My 500w PSU probably isn't very happy with me after that either lol.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Hello everyone! I want to apologize right now for the wall of text I'm about to throw at you. I recently purchased a 990FXA-UD3 from Newegg to power my FX-8350. Sadly the first board, a Rev 1.1, was messed up and had bad cap whine and crazy high temps. My RMA'd unit is a Rev 3.0 and while the temps are great on it I'm experiencing throttling. I've read through this thread probably a dozen times. I'm not sure if I'm missing something or what.

So far this is what I have. At stock 4.0ghz with turbo off there is no throttling. At 4.44ghz @ 1.38v I get very light throttling, every so often my multi drops to 7x. At 4.40ghz @ 1.38v I'm not noticing any throttling. If I try to go to 4.5 or 4.6ghz even at 1.404v I'm experiencing heavy throttling.

I'm on the newest UEFI FC and I have all the low power states disabled. I have HPC mode enabled. I'm using a bus overclock as opposed to a multi overclock. My reported temps are great, though I'm not completely sure which is which. I see here in the FAQ TMPIN1 is CPU and TMPIN2 is NB. However TMPIN2 matchs Hardware monitor's report of CPU package temp dead on. Either way, TMPIN1 is max 48C at 4.44ghz and TMPIN2 is 51C.

I am using an Antec Kuhler 620 on my CPU on a push pull setup so I know the VRMs aren't getting the greatest airflow, so I placed a fan blowing on them. Everything I've found indicates this as VRM throttling but I don't know what to do to remedy it. I have a feeling this CPU is going to be a great clocker but if I try to push it at all I get crazy throttling. Any thoughts or ideas would be really appreciated!


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Hello everyone! I want to apologize right now for the wall of text I'm about to throw at you. I recently purchased a 990FXA-UD3 from Newegg to power my FX-8350. Sadly the first board, a Rev 1.1, was messed up and had bad cap whine and crazy high temps. My RMA'd unit is a Rev 3.0 and while the temps are great on it I'm experiencing throttling. I've read through this thread probably a dozen times. I'm not sure if I'm missing something or what.
> 
> So far this is what I have. At stock 4.0ghz with turbo off there is no throttling. At 4.44ghz @ 1.38v I get very light throttling, every so often my multi drops to 7x. At 4.40ghz @ 1.38v I'm not noticing any throttling. If I try to go to 4.5 or 4.6ghz even at 1.404v I'm experiencing heavy throttling.
> 
> I'm on the newest UEFI FC and I have all the low power states disabled. I have HPC mode enabled. I'm using a bus overclock as opposed to a multi overclock. My reported temps are great, though I'm not completely sure which is which. I see here in the FAQ TMPIN1 is CPU and TMPIN2 is NB. However TMPIN2 matchs Hardware monitor's report of CPU package temp dead on. Either way, TMPIN1 is max 48C at 4.44ghz and TMPIN2 is 51C.
> 
> I am using an Antec Kuhler 620 on my CPU on a push pull setup so I know the VRMs aren't getting the greatest airflow, so I placed a fan blowing on them. Everything I've found indicates this as VRM throttling but I don't know what to do to remedy it. I have a feeling this CPU is going to be a great clocker but if I try to push it at all I get crazy throttling. Any thoughts or ideas would be really appreciated!


Same issues here, went through all the settings tried 18k different ways and still get the same thing, aida64 stability test shows stable. Prime95 I get light throttling.


----------



## noobdown

Fc bios has been released for ud3 rev 3.0
http://www.overclock.net/t/1367048/gigabyte-990fxa-ud3-rev-3-0-bios-fc-released

http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4397&dl=1#bios


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> Fc bios has been released for ud3 rev 3.0
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1367048/gigabyte-990fxa-ud3-rev-3-0-bios-fc-released
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4397&dl=1#bios


Didnt work


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

That was the first thing I did was download FC. It hasn't made any difference with throttling at all.


----------



## CasperGS

Has anyone with this board and fx8350 that have successful OC with no throttling with rev 3 UEFI???


----------



## unknown601

I need some help. I have overclocked my 1100t to 4ghz in the bios and it doesn't down-clock to 800MHz at idle any more how do i make it down-clock when the computer is at idle?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Make sure Cool & Quiet is enabled in the BIOS and in Windows make sure your power mode is on Balanced.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> I need some help. I have overclocked my 1100t to 4ghz in the bios and it doesn't down-clock to 800MHz at idle any more how do i make it down-clock when the computer is at idle?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Make sure Cool & Quiet is enabled in the BIOS and in Windows make sure your power mode is on Balanced.


Don't forget that Cool N Quiet stops working after your raise the multiplier to a point. I forget what point though.


----------



## unknown601

Ok thanks. my multiplier is set to 20x and Cool N Quiet is on so i must be past the point where it stops working.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> Ok thanks. my multiplier is set to 20x and Cool N Quiet is on so i must be past the point where it stops working.


I did some searching in an attempt to find where it stop's. Most say after 18.5, but I'm not 100% on that.

Also there are other programs you can search for that can throttle down your CPU.

Phenom MsrTweaker is a popular replacement for CnQ, but I have never used it.


----------



## unknown601

Thanks heaps i will use the Phenom MsrTweaker to throttle down my cpu.

BTW. Nice overclock on you computer Intel i5 2500k @ *4.7Ghz*


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> Thanks heaps i will use the Phenom MsrTweaker to throttle down my cpu.
> 
> BTW. Nice overclock on you computer Intel i5 2500k @ *4.7Ghz*


No problem, Let me know how you like it. I've thought about using it on my back up rig but never got around to messing with it.

Thanks! It took some work to fine tune it but I'm happy with 4.7Ghz on air, My mobo is off for RMA, when it get's back I'm going water cooling. I'm confident that my sig rig will pull 5.0+


----------



## unknown601

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> No problem, Let me know how you like it. I've thought about using it on my back up rig but never got around to messing with it.
> 
> Thanks! It took some work to fine tune it but I'm happy with 4.7Ghz on air, My mobo is off for RMA, when it get's back I'm going water cooling. I'm confident that my sig rig will pull 5.0+


I installed it left the setting default and set it to power saver and it work exactly the same as Cool N Quiet.

Wow if you get 5.0Ghz you can join the *5.0Ghz Club*


----------



## unknown601

I just found out window power management will do the CPU throttling when its set to *balanced*









I didn't see you guys post it


----------



## noogai93

Hey Guys,

I'm having a little trouble overclocking my 8350 on my UD5, i cannot understand the gigabyte voltage naming convention. I'm running a h100i and am looking to get near
5ghz i will be happy with 4.8ghz.

Where should i start with the voltages ?

Also what power saving features should i turn off on the ud5 ?

Thanks,


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Hello everyone! I want to apologize right now for the wall of text I'm about to throw at you. I recently purchased a 990FXA-UD3 from Newegg to power my FX-8350. Sadly the first board, a Rev 1.1, was messed up and had bad cap whine and crazy high temps. My RMA'd unit is a Rev 3.0 and while the temps are great on it I'm experiencing throttling. I've read through this thread probably a dozen times. I'm not sure if I'm missing something or what.
> 
> So far this is what I have. At stock 4.0ghz with turbo off there is no throttling. At 4.44ghz @ 1.38v I get very light throttling, every so often my multi drops to 7x. At 4.40ghz @ 1.38v I'm not noticing any throttling. If I try to go to 4.5 or 4.6ghz even at 1.404v I'm experiencing heavy throttling.
> 
> I'm on the newest UEFI FC and I have all the low power states disabled. I have HPC mode enabled. I'm using a bus overclock as opposed to a multi overclock. My reported temps are great, though I'm not completely sure which is which. I see here in the FAQ TMPIN1 is CPU and TMPIN2 is NB. However TMPIN2 matchs Hardware monitor's report of CPU package temp dead on. Either way, TMPIN1 is max 48C at 4.44ghz and TMPIN2 is 51C.
> 
> I am using an Antec Kuhler 620 on my CPU on a push pull setup so I know the VRMs aren't getting the greatest airflow, so I placed a fan blowing on them. Everything I've found indicates this as VRM throttling but I don't know what to do to remedy it. I have a feeling this CPU is going to be a great clocker but if I try to push it at all I get crazy throttling. Any thoughts or ideas would be really appreciated!


Do you have HPC enable on your bios? Fixed my issues.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Do you have HPC enable on your bios? Fixed my issues.


Yes I do. It has made no difference for me. At 4.40ghz @ 1.38v I have no throttling. If I bump the voltage up to 1.404 it throttles like crazy. I'm thinking I might just tough it out for a couple weeks then order an Asus CHV or something. I can't have my rig down for another week waiting on another probably bad replacement. I'm sick of this thing already.


----------



## WishinItWas

Have you tried the pain in the butt way of setting the HPC? which is to boot into BIOS , disable HPC, make your changes and then save/boot to windows ....then reset and boot to BIOS and touch nothing else , but then enable HPC and save/boot to windows. This is the method I found in the FX-8350 thread that worked for me to get the HPC to "stick"


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

No I haven't tried that, but I will give it shot right now. It only takes a few minutes to find out if its going to throttle or not.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

No, that didn't work either. I'm not sure just what the deal is with this thing but I've definitely have had enough of it lol.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> No, that didn't work either. I'm not sure just what the deal is with this thing but I've definitely have had enough of it lol.


U upgrade to FC bios?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yes, that was the first thing I did when I got the board.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

I see that most people are saying to enable HPC mode with the rev 3.0 boards but, this only stops throttling for a very short period of time, eventually the board will go back to throttling and it's honestly the most frustrating thing ever. This will probably the first and last gigabyte product I get.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yeah that is about how I feel at this point. I'm still seriously considering picking up an Asus board in a few weeks and tossing this heap.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Yeah that is about how I feel at this point. I'm still seriously considering picking up an Asus board in a few weeks and tossing this heap.


ack!

Avoid ANY AS.S board with the Q-LED Warning system. Its prone to flagging GPU's, CPU's and RAM that are in perfectly fine working condition. Then your going to have to pay $25 to ship the overpriced paperweight back to as.s.... If Gigabyte has peeved you might look into ASRock's offerings.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I haven't had an ASRock board since the 939 days and come to think it was a very solid board. Any in particular you would recommend?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I haven't had an ASRock board since the 939 days and come to think it was a very solid board. Any in particular you would recommend?


I have no personal experience with their high end boards as of yet so I can't point to at one in specific. I have used their low end boards a few times now. Very solid and great set of options for the prices though.

Back in the 939 day's ASRock was a subsidiary of ASUS. For the past few years they have been on their own and building steam.


----------



## noogai93

Having trouble overclocking my 8350 on a ud5, can anyone share their OC settings please?


----------



## vonss

Been catching up with the posts here after two months of absence and as I suspected, the rev 3.0 was nothing more then marketing shenanigans and it backfire on them. Also, why people buy a brand-new, untested product and then are surprised about the hiccups is beyond me.


----------



## CasperGS

think that flashing the bios to an older version might solve the problem or not?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Been catching up with the posts here after two months of absence and as I suspected, the rev 3.0 was nothing more then marketing shenanigans and it backfire on them. Also, why people buy a brand-new, untested product and then are surprised about the hiccups is beyond me.


The first one I bought was a Rev 1.1 and it was worse than the 3.0. It exhibited the same throttling the Rev 3 does but it also reported extremely high temperatures and had cap whine under load. I RMA'd that heap and they sent me a 3.0 as the replacement. The only issue I have with this one is the throttling.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> think that flashing the bios to an older version might solve the problem or not?


I doubt it. I tried overclocking mine on BIOS FA and it throttled as well. I didn't try FB, I went right to FC and it did nothing.


----------



## CasperGS

This suxs, I would flip the "F" out if my H100i would handle the heat better, but as it is at 4.4 and dont want to push it any further. *Mental note for next mobo purchase.*


----------



## WishinItWas

I'm on a Noctua C 14 and at 4.4GHz with +0.025v on the core my temps are right at 50c after 10 passes on IBT. They sit at 40c gaming and idle at ambient temp with no issue. The H100i should be able to sustain the temps fine at 4.4GHz ...Try a localized vcore and or NB fan on the board to keep the surrounding temps at bay.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> This suxs, I would flip the "F" out if my H100i would handle the heat better, but as it is at 4.4 and dont want to push it any further. *Mental note for next mobo purchase.*


H100i is a sub par cooler for a premium price


----------



## CasperGS

What I was saying is it is fine at 4.4, if I push it any higher I dont like the temps.


----------



## Pudfark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noogai93*
> 
> Having trouble overclocking my 8350 on a ud5, can anyone share their OC settings please?


What revision is your board?
Example: 1.0 , 1.1, 3.0

It makes a difference.

If you have a 1.1 I may be able to pass on some excellent advice, that I received here.


----------



## zaltec

Read through a hundred or so posts, unfortunately all I could stomach, so forgive me if this has been asked/answered before









I recently purchased a GA-990FXA-UD3 board, but haven't started my build yet. I currently have a Thermalright 120 Extreme which I would like to use, however I was curious about the memory slot clearance. It's in use right now though, so I can't easily move it over to eyeball it.

Anyone with a similar giant-size air cooler (Tuniq Tower, etc) have any input? Is low-profile RAM necessary, or is there enough of a clearance for today's typical oversize-heatsinked RAM?

I guess I should also throw out a request for RAM recommendations while I'm at it... Looking for 2x8GB for now, higher freq/tighter timings would be nice.

Thanks,
/Z


----------



## WishinItWas

If you are running 2x4GB or 2x8GB the recommended DIMMS to run are #1 and #2 , #1 is the furthest from the cpu and #2 is the second closest. ( see my post here http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/4430#post_19337778

In my case this solved clearance issues for me as the ram is far enough away from the cooler, if you have all 4 DIMMS utilized I would check specification clearances on your cooler model .


----------



## noogai93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> What revision is your board?
> Example: 1.0 , 1.1, 3.0
> 
> It makes a difference.
> 
> If you have a 1.1 I may be able to pass on some excellent advice, that I received here.


I have a rev 1.0 with F11 bios


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Have any of you guys pulled the thermal pad off the vrm's and replaced it with good cpu paste? I'm wondering if that would cure my throttling issues.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> What revision is your board?
> Example: 1.0 , 1.1, 3.0
> 
> It makes a difference.
> 
> If you have a 1.1 I may be able to pass on some excellent advice, that I received here.


I am curious about this too but do plan to oc in the near future... just curious as i have read people say crossfire is bottlenecked by a 8350 running stock...

Running bios f12b on a 1.1 ud5

Thanks


----------



## callofduty2200

HELP!!!!!

Hey guys i have had my ud5 for a while and im loving it. I only have one problem..... i just bought a usb 3.0 flash drive and my mobo wont recognize it and i honestly cant figure out why? (plugged straight into the mobo not with the case)


----------



## WishinItWas

Have you tried reinstalling the USB 3.0 drivers off the gigabyte website?


----------



## callofduty2200

yeah lol thats the first thing i did and it wont work. maybe im doing something wrong but i dont know. Any ideas?


----------



## noogai93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *callofduty2200*
> 
> yeah lol thats the first thing i did and it wont work. maybe im doing something wrong but i dont know. Any ideas?


my front usb 3 works but if i leave something plugged in on reboot or power up it will hang at windows logo,
i'ved tried many of the older drivers as well as the new ones, i just dont use the front side ports anymore


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well for anyone with a Rev 3 with throttling, this is what Gigabyte sent me. So hopefully in a few weeks this will be fixed...


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well for anyone with a Rev 3 with throttling, this is what Gigabyte sent me. So hopefully in a few weeks this will be fixed...


Now this is great information!

THANK YOU FOR SHARING! I personally have a rev 1.0 but I have been reading about the 3.0 boards and this is great news for all you rev 3.0 owners!


----------



## bigsobes87

Just ordered the rest of the parts for my build with the GA-990FXA-UD3, can't wait, the rest of the parts are as follows:

Case: Antec Eleven Hundred
CPU: FX-8350
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1866MHz
Video Card: Sapphire 7950 3GB
Boot Drive: ADATA XPG SX900 128GB SSD
Storage: WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM (will add a second later on for a Raid 0 array)
Optical Drive: Asus 24B1ST or something like that
Power Supply: Corsair HX750 80 Plus Gold


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noogai93*
> 
> I have a rev 1.0 with F11 bios


I am also running a rev 1.0 board,

I am curious where you found the F11 bios? Im running the F10a beta that shows as the most current on the gigabyte website...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigsobes87*
> 
> Just ordered the rest of the parts for my build with the GA-990FXA-UD3, can't wait, the rest of the parts are as follows:
> 
> Case: Antec Eleven Hundred
> CPU: FX-8350
> CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i
> Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1866MHz
> Video Card: Sapphire 7950 3GB
> Boot Drive: ADATA XPG SX900 128GB SSD
> Storage: WD Blue 1TB 7200RPM (will add a second later on for a Raid 0 array)
> Optical Drive: Asus 24B1ST or something like that
> Power Supply: Corsair HX750 80 Plus Gold


Outside of the case, cooler and SSD it seems to be a nice rig... but ulg that case and cooler







overpriced hype. ADATA is so-so on SSD performance.


----------



## Mccaula718

I'm experiencing the throttling issues on my cpu with my rev 3 board. I have all power saving options off and HPC on and my cpu starts to throttle around 65*c. I read a way to stop this is to enable and disable turbocore in AOD but when I do that, it clocks my cpu to 4.0. Can someone give me IDIOT PROOF step by step instructions to do this properly? It would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## ebduncan

for those with throttling issues do this

Disable APM in bios.

if you have a revision 1.0 board, update your bios to F9. again disable APM.

You can replace the thermal pad on the VRMS with thermal paste, just make sure its non conductive, and you check to make sure your getting good contact on each mosfet. Personally I just removed the push pins and installed a higher quality thermal pad, then used nuts and bolts with nylon washers to sure the heatsinks on my VRM and my Northbridge. Now they are very secure and i don't have to worry about the heatsinks not making good contact.

Overall if I had the choice all over again The gigabyte board would have never been purchased. I would go with the Asus Crosshair V. The gigabyte board has given me all sorts of headaches, which i have not encountered on their previous boards. Heck my GA-MA790GP-DS4H was probably the best board I have ever owned.


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mccaula718*
> 
> I'm experiencing the throttling issues on my cpu with my rev 3 board. I have all power saving options off and HPC on and my cpu starts to throttle around 65*c. I read a way to stop this is to enable and disable turbocore in AOD but when I do that, it clocks my cpu to 4.0. Can someone give me IDIOT PROOF step by step instructions to do this properly? It would be greatly appreciated!


the hpc mode when enabled, disables the the throttling for the drop down to 2.9(14) multiplyer. Also are you using the FC bios?


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> for those with throttling issues do this
> 
> Disable APM in bios.
> 
> if you have a revision 1.0 board, update your bios to F9. again disable APM.


i believee you didn't read a few pages back?









the problem only exists with the rev 3.0 boards (UEFI). the apm mode doesn't work on those.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Look like 6 posts up, I posted Gigabytes reply about APM mode in Rev 3 boards. It doesn't work at the moment and they are working on a fix. *I hope anyways*


----------



## noobdown

That might be a 8350 specific problem. I have no problem with the apm. on fc bios with hpc mode.


----------



## SeriousTom

I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 1.1 with the F9 Bios,
I am trying to get my 4 Crucial Tracers DDR3-1866 somewhere up around the 1866.
I also have a FX-8350 CPU
Right now I have the board running at these clocks
I have the CPU Multiplier at 19.5
I have the CPU FSB at 220
which gives me 4290Mhz on the CPU and runs the memory at DDR3-1760
I had the FSB up to 225 which gave me DDR3-1800 but I had a few crashes.
I was reading else-where in this thread that HyperTransport Clock and the North Bridge Clock should be the same and that they should be somewhere around 2600Mhz.
This is where I get a little confused. My HyperTransport Clock is set to auto in Bios and AIDA64 tells me it set at 13X and is 2860Mhz, the North Bridge Clock is also on Auto and AIDA64 tells me it set at 11X and is 2420Mhz.
So I want to up my FSB to 234 and lower my CPU multiplier down to around 18X
Would I lower the Hyper Transport clock multiplier from 13X to 11X that would give me 234 x 11 = 2574 Mhz
And leave the North Bridge Clock multiplier at 11 so that it matches the HyperTransport Clock ?
Thanks for listening.


----------



## razgriz00004

i would like to to know if i should go for GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3 or just buy the rev 1.1. i have read in the past few pages ppl having probs with the rev3. if i go for rev 3, can some provide me a link of it, gonna purchase online but can't seem to find Rev 3 in amazon nor ebay.
i'm not a owner of the 990fxa series so sorry in adv if i posted in the wrong section atm, but would like to BE an owner of the series soon









oh and my processor is fx 8350.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I can't speak for the rev 1.1, mine was rma'd for thermal issues. I got my rev 3 as the replacement from Newegg. With the 8350 I'd wait until we can verify what gigabyte is validating works or not for the rev 3.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 1.1 with the F9 Bios,
> I am trying to get my 4 Crucial Tracers DDR3-1866 somewhere up around the 1866.
> I also have a FX-8350 CPU
> Right now I have the board running at these clocks
> I have the CPU Multiplier at 19.5
> I have the CPU FSB at 220
> which gives me 4290Mhz on the CPU and runs the memory at DDR3-1760
> I had the FSB up to 225 which gave me DDR3-1800 but I had a few crashes.
> I was reading else-where in this thread that HyperTransport Clock and the North Bridge Clock should be the same and that they should be somewhere around 2600Mhz.
> This is where I get a little confused. My HyperTransport Clock is set to auto in Bios and AIDA64 tells me it set at 13X and is 2860Mhz, the North Bridge Clock is also on Auto and AIDA64 tells me it set at 11X and is 2420Mhz.
> So I want to up my FSB to 234 and lower my CPU multiplier down to around 18X
> Would I lower the Hyper Transport clock multiplier from 13X to 11X that would give me 234 x 11 = 2574 Mhz
> And leave the North Bridge Clock multiplier at 11 so that it matches the HyperTransport Clock ?
> Thanks for listening.


Why are you using the FSB to OC? Manually adjust the multiplier for the CPU to the desire value, then adjust the CPU-NB to 2800 and leave the HT Link at default.
As for the ram; use the XMP if available (E.O.C.P.) for 1886MHz, if not, do it manually. Same goes for the voltage if XMP (E.O.C.P.) is not available.
After that, you have to increase the voltages for the CPU and the CPU-NB to whatever is stable.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Why are you using the FSB to OC? Manually adjust the multiplier for the CPU to the desire value, then adjust the CPU-NB to 2800 and leave the HT Link at default.
> As for the ram; use the XMP if available (E.O.C.P.) for 1886MHz, if not, do it manually. Same goes for the voltage if XMP (E.O.C.P.) is not available.
> After that, you have to increase the voltages for the CPU and the CPU-NB to whatever is stable.


Will E.O.C.P. allow 4 sticks of memory to run @ 1866 ?
I've swithed the memory multiplier but that didn't work.


----------



## callofduty2200

So can anyone help with my USB 3.0 problem? it will recognise in the bios but not in windows and i could use some help.


----------



## PatriBrod

I am now a proud owner of this mobo







!


----------



## CasperGS

Just refunded mine for an ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 AM3+, Homie dont play that game.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Just refunded mine for an ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 AM3+, Homie dont play that game.


I'd love to know how you managed that. I'm not really feeling this 990fxa-ud5. Voltage is all over the damn place.


----------



## Mccaula718

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mccaula718*
> 
> I'm experiencing the throttling issues on my cpu with my rev 3 board. I have all power saving options off and HPC on and my cpu starts to throttle around 65*c. I read a way to stop this is to enable and disable turbocore in AOD but when I do that, it clocks my cpu to 4.0. Can someone give me IDIOT PROOF step by step instructions to do this properly? It would be greatly appreciated!


A little bit of searching and I found this on youtube. Maybe I will need to overclock using AOD with it so it doesn't change my clocks. I will let post back when I get a chance.


----------



## CasperGS

I told them it was defective....in which they are.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Let us know how that sabertooth works. If this BIOS revision gigabyte claims they are working on doesn't fix it I'll be on the market for another board.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Let us know how that sabertooth works. If this BIOS revision gigabyte claims they are working on doesn't fix it I'll be on the market for another board.


Will do.


----------



## sumitlian

Sorry !


----------



## hurricane28

hey people.

i have the 990 FXA-ud3 rev 1.1 and i think its throtting.

i set my fsb to 225 and it is all stable and works fine.

but when i see in cpu-z and when i am doing benchmarks like 3d mark 11 it says that i am running 4.499 but in my bios i set it to 4.5

also my voltages and bus speed and ht link is jumping around. is that normal or is that what u call throtting?

i disable APM, cool&quiet LLC to extreme so i don't know what else to disable or do. maybe this is normal but i never saw this bevore.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hey people.
> 
> i have the 990 FXA-ud3 rev 1.1 and i think its throtting.
> 
> i set my fsb to 225 and it is all stable and works fine.
> 
> but when i see in cpu-z and when i am doing benchmarks like 3d mark 11 it says that i am running 4.499 but in my bios i set it to 4.5
> 
> also my voltages and bus speed and ht link is jumping around. is that normal or is that what u call throtting?
> 
> i disable APM, cool&quiet LLC to extreme so i don't know what else to disable or do. maybe this is normal but i never saw this bevore.


your cpu isn't throttling if its at 4.499 vs 4.5ghz all motherboards have a small flux in clock rate, due to the nature of which it is generated. Your hypertransport speed should not be bouncing around though. I would suspect this might have something to do with the memory power saving features the board has. Go into the memory config and turn off dram power saving modes, see if that stops the hypertransport and bus speed from bouncing around. Note if the clock rate of either is only a small change ie between 0-10mhz or so, that would be considered normal. Remember your Hypertransport speed is based on your Bus speed so that would explain why it may flutter a bit.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hey people.
> 
> i have the 990 FXA-ud3 rev 1.1 and i think its throtting.
> 
> i set my fsb to 225 and it is all stable and works fine.
> 
> but when i see in cpu-z and when i am doing benchmarks like 3d mark 11 it says that i am running 4.499 but in my bios i set it to 4.5
> 
> also my voltages and bus speed and ht link is jumping around. is that normal or is that what u call throtting?
> 
> i disable APM, cool&quiet LLC to extreme so i don't know what else to disable or do. maybe this is normal but i never saw this bevore.


4.5 becoming 4.499 is not throttling. Its normal.

Throttling would be more than just .001 Ghz


----------



## hurricane28

aha oke good to know.

i looked for that DRAM power saving thing but i could not find it in my bios.

also my voltage of the CPU is going from 1.408 to 1.424

HT link is going in between 2250 to 2249.80 bus speed as well from 225 to 224.99

overall i am pretty satisfied with this board

thnx for the tips guys


----------



## Baby Jai

I have an fx 8350 with the ud3 rev3 board. I got it to be stable with multiplier to 4.8 and just upped the voltage to 1.45, however I cannot seem do the fsb instead of using so mugh multiplier


----------



## vonss

I would like to know which BIOS version was, in general, the "best" one for Phenom II Deneb chips owners. Overclocking wise.


----------



## madengineer

Hey guys, figured I'd post this in here as well









So, as the title suggests, I'm trying to set up 5.1 on my motherboard, and having very little luck with it.

Basically, all the speakers go through the sub. I have front left and right, rear left and right, the sub, and the centre speaker.

Both sets of front and rear work without a problem. They have an output from the sub that are lime and black.

The Sub has another line out that is orange. I can't get the centre speaker to work, yet the sub works fine.

I've plugged the cables into the Black, lime, and orange for the centre speaker/sub.

Anybody got any ideas as to why It's not working?

I set it up in the realtek software for 5.1 as well.

Cheers

PS. I also checked to make sure the centre speaker works by plugging it into a different port on the back of the sub. It works fine. And when I do the realtek audio test in the configure menu, it has sound, but the 2 rear speakers dont.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I would like to know which BIOS version was, in general, the "best" one for Phenom II Deneb chips owners. Overclocking wise.


F5

for phenom chips / thuban

F9+ for Bulldozer and Piledriver.


----------



## vinton13

Hey UD7 owners...how is the on-board audio? Is it terrible? I'll be removing my Xonar D1 soon to make way for another GPU.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> F5
> 
> for phenom chips / thuban
> 
> F9+ for Bulldozer and Piledriver.


Don't suppose it's advised to load a rev 1.0 board's bios on a rev 3 board eh?


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madengineer*
> 
> Hey guys, figured I'd post this in here as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, as the title suggests, I'm trying to set up 5.1 on my motherboard, and having very little luck with it.
> 
> Basically, all the speakers go through the sub. I have front left and right, rear left and right, the sub, and the centre speaker.
> 
> Both sets of front and rear work without a problem. They have an output from the sub that are lime and black.
> 
> The Sub has another line out that is orange. I can't get the centre speaker to work, yet the sub works fine.
> 
> I've plugged the cables into the Black, lime, and orange for the centre speaker/sub.
> 
> Anybody got any ideas as to why It's not working?
> 
> I set it up in the realtek software for 5.1 as well.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> PS. I also checked to make sure the centre speaker works by plugging it into a different port on the back of the sub. It works fine. And when I do the realtek audio test in the configure menu, it has sound, but the 2 rear speakers dont.


On the mobo's manual there is a guide how to setup things like that, might be worth a look.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> F5
> 
> for phenom chips / thuban
> 
> F9+ for Bulldozer and Piledriver.


I was thinking of using the F4, meself. Guess shouldn't make any diff at all either F4 or F5
¿So "VRM MOS protection" is not that much of a big deal to skip over then?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Don't suppose it's advised to load a rev 1.0 board's bios on a rev 3 board eh?


Well I couldn't hurt to try, I reckon, since if it corrupts your main bios, the back-up bios will kick in and everything should be as before.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Don't suppose it's advised to load a rev 1.0 board's bios on a rev 3 board eh?


No, they are incompatible.. and furthermore tat would not help anything. 1.0 does not have LLC and is physically different...


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13*
> 
> Hey UD7 owners...how is the on-board audio? Is it terrible? I'll be removing my Xonar D1 soon to make way for another GPU.


you wont like it when you remove your soundcard in any situation.


----------



## krajlevic

Soundcard is without a doubt a way better. My simple Auzentech X-Raider is so better with just a 60$ 2.1 sound; Altec Lansing VS 4121. With a good tuning, even MP3 at 392kbits are different, better, clarity, deepness. If you don't have ears and don't listen to music carefully you can go on with the embedded soundcard but if not...for me I can't go back to this solution.


----------



## Mccaula718

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krajlevic*
> 
> Soundcard is without a doubt a way better. My simple Auzentech X-Raider is so better with just a 60$ 2.1 sound; Altec Lansing VS 4121. With a good tuning, even MP3 at 392kbits are different, better, clarity, deepness. If you don't have ears and don't listen to music carefully you can go on with the embedded soundcard but if not...for me I can't go back to this solution.


Do you agree with that even when using optical?


----------



## Mccaula718

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krajlevic*
> 
> Soundcard is without a doubt a way better. My simple Auzentech X-Raider is so better with just a 60$ 2.1 sound; Altec Lansing VS 4121. With a good tuning, even MP3 at 392kbits are different, better, clarity, deepness. If you don't have ears and don't listen to music carefully you can go on with the embedded soundcard but if not...for me I can't go back to this solution.


Do you agree with that even when using optical? I ask bc I use inboard through optical with my htpc


----------



## akdeng47

I haven't read through this thread but can anyone tell me whats the best HT link speed for -UD3 Rev3.0?

Stock HT link speed is 2600Mhz, I just feel its way too high compare to the motherboards i've been overclocking on, they are usually 2000Mhz.


----------



## vonss

Both F4 and F5 give my set my bus speed to 201 even do I manually set it to 200. Don't like that. Nor did i was able to get my normal OC's with lower voltages, so i reckon I'll get back to F7.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akdeng47*
> 
> I haven't read through this thread but can anyone tell me whats the best HT link speed for -UD3 Rev3.0?
> 
> Stock HT link speed is 2600Mhz, I just feel its way too high compare to the motherboards i've been overclocking on, they are usually 2000Mhz.


That's your FX chip, AFAIK, saw the same on a friend's right with a 4100 and a UD3 rev 1.1, not sure why is that tho.


----------



## vinton13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> you wont like it when you remove your soundcard in any situation.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krajlevic*
> 
> Soundcard is without a doubt a way better. My simple Auzentech X-Raider is so better with just a 60$ 2.1 sound; Altec Lansing VS 4121. With a good tuning, even MP3 at 392kbits are different, better, clarity, deepness. If you don't have ears and don't listen to music carefully you can go on with the embedded soundcard but if not...for me I can't go back to this solution.


Ugh...I didn't want to have to run the cards in x8/x8...even though I heard it's not that big of a difference. :\


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Alright overclock guru's, I'm having some serious issues here. First some background. A few weeks ago I decided to upgrade most of my components. Case, psu, cpu, and the like. I decided to keep my 970a-ud3 and corsair lp white ram as they both have been great. I ordered a Seasonic g-series 550 and the thing blew up and melted itself to my motherboard. Holy crap right?!? Not one to be deterred I immediately set off ordering another motherboard, and decided to get the 990fxa-ud5 cause it was Gigabyte and beautiful. Also cause Newegg was out of the ud7. Got started rma'ing the burnt psu and motherboard. Ordered the 990fxa-ud5 motherboard and first thing on my mind is stability testing to make sure the dang psu didn't fry my new 8350 and 16 gigs of ram. Only the board cannot hold a stable vcore voltage to save its life. And memtest will not recognise my ram at its set speed at all. We are talking it comes up ddr 366 @ 1-3-3 timings. now as pretty as this motherboard is I cannot have a buggered system. So I order another 970a-ud3. When it comes in I'm going to test all my components to make sure they are kosher, but I'm stuck wondering if I should rma this 990fxa-ud5 for another and hope that it runs better, grab a known monster like the sabertooth even with Asus' known problems with CS, or grab the new asrock 990fx-extreme9. At this point I've put about $1500 into this build and I'm stubborn so hell if I'll quit now. I'm gonna end up with 2 970a-ud3's which doesn't bother me, they are beastly little boards but I really had my heart set on a nice 990 overclocking board. Yeah my h60 ain't much but I was gonna order the swiftech h20-220 until this happened. So that's on hold now. I guess I'm looking for some advice here. What would you do?


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> Alright overclock guru's, I'm having some serious issues here. First some background. A few weeks ago I decided to upgrade most of my components. Case, psu, cpu, and the like. I decided to keep my 970a-ud3 and corsair lp white ram as they both have been great. I ordered a Seasonic g-series 550 and the thing blew up and melted itself to my motherboard. Holy crap right?!? Not one to be deterred I immediately set off ordering another motherboard, and decided to get the 990fxa-ud5 cause it was Gigabyte and beautiful. Also cause Newegg was out of the ud7. Got started rma'ing the burnt psu and motherboard. Ordered the 990fxa-ud5 motherboard and first thing on my mind is stability testing to make sure the dang psu didn't fry my new 8350 and 16 gigs of ram. Only the board cannot hold a stable vcore voltage to save its life. And memtest will not recognise my ram at its set speed at all. We are talking it comes up ddr 366 @ 1-3-3 timings. now as pretty as this motherboard is I cannot have a buggered system. So I order another 970a-ud3. When it comes in I'm going to test all my components to make sure they are kosher, but I'm stuck wondering if I should rma this 990fxa-ud5 for another and hope that it runs better, grab a known monster like the sabertooth even with Asus' known problems with CS, or grab the new asrock 990fx-extreme9. At this point I've put about $1500 into this build and I'm stubborn so hell if I'll quit now. I'm gonna end up with 2 970a-ud3's which doesn't bother me, they are beastly little boards but I really had my heart set on a nice 990 overclocking board. Yeah my h60 ain't much but I was gonna order the swiftech h20-220 until this happened. So that's on hold now. I guess I'm looking for some advice here. What would you do?


I would like someone else to confirm this... but I have used memtest a hand full of times and have never seen it show the correct ram settings. I really only trust what the PC tells me during the post test. I have also not seen CPUz or AOC tell me my ram is in the right slots. Always second guess myself and look at the boards labels to verify.
Also to keep my volts on the cpu from spiking up, I had to change llc to medium in the bios. (If thats what your problem is)

As you said your psu could have killed the rest of your parts it may not be the board thats bad. You still have more trouble shooting to do, but from the info you said so far, doesn't sound like it. But because of what happened, i would always suspect your ram and cpu as a first test to swap out until you can oc it and burn it in hard.


----------



## CasperGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Let us know how that sabertooth works. If this BIOS revision gigabyte claims they are working on doesn't fix it I'll be on the market for another board.


Sabertooth is awsome, It installed way easy. Im running at 4.6ghz at load 52c max. "Stable" "No throttling or vdrop" The AI suite even report problems on screen: got a warning that voltage was low, So i fixed it. Bios is really nice and esy to follow. Even has trouble light on mobo so you know what to adjust. Should have bought the sabertooth the first time.......thats what I get for squeezing the dollar.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasperGS*
> 
> Sabertooth is awsome, It installed way easy. Im running at 4.6ghz at load 52c max. "Stable" "No throttling or vdrop" The AI suite even report problems on screen: got a warning that voltage was low, So i fixed it. Bios is really nice and esy to follow. Even has trouble light on mobo so you know what to adjust. Should have bought the sabertooth the first time.......thats what I get for squeezing the dollar.


Good to hear. This will probably be the route I will be going. I have a trip to Alabama the beginning of April so I can't spend any money until I get back. Hopefully Gigabyte's BIOS revision fixes the throttling, if not I'll be looking into one of these. Thanks for the update kind sir.


----------



## MadGoat

Sucks to hear that you all are having so many issues...

I know my board hasn't been the easiest thing to deal with, but its been a great board. Even being a 1.0 board, I'm very happy with what it has and continues to do.

My 8350 @ 4.73 50c full load 24hr stable is no small task.

I hope a BIOS update comes out soon to fix you guys up...


----------



## krajlevic

I haven't used optical out yet, maybe not.but it's just a matter of tests and ears. You have both, sound card and onboard solution, try them. I was sceptical too when I first bought my auzentech, I've got a decent chip on one my previous board but there was differences between them, on the sharpness and the most of it, sounds ,on tunes I listened a thousand times, I've never heard.
"Oh there was a bass here, never heard this bell before,..and more

For me, if you can't hear a large spectrum of sound, the soundcard could be useless. In oppostion, I'll never buy a 150$ soundcard for listening 128kbits MP3, on 15$ speakers.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *krajlevic*
> 
> I haven't used optical out yet, maybe not.but it's just a matter of tests and ears. You have both, sound card and onboard solution, try them. I was sceptical too when I first bought my auzentech, I've got a decent chip on one my previous board but there was differences between them, on the sharpness and the most of it, sounds ,on tunes I listened a thousand times, I've never heard.
> "Oh there was a bass here, never heard this bell before,..and more
> 
> For me, if you can't hear a large spectrum of sound, the soundcard could be useless. In oppostion, I'll never buy a 150$ soundcard for listening 128kbits MP3, on 15$ speakers.


External sound is the way to go. On my Sig Rig I use a Kenwood receiver to power two 100w 3-way tower speakers(appt's so I have to watch the bass). Its a very cheap system but blow's a sound card out of the water.

For the back up rig(one with the UD3) I'm searching for an optical/toshlink DAC + Dayton DBA-100A to power speaker's (undecided on those still)

After hearing many cheap external sound set up I'll never go back to internal sound cards







CraigsList +$200 can = great value in PC audio.


----------



## Mccaula718

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> External sound is the way to go. On my Sig Rig I use a Kenwood receiver to power two 100w 3-way tower speakers(appt's so I have to watch the bass). Its a very cheap system but blow's a sound card out of the water.
> 
> For the back up rig(one with the UD3) I'm searching for an optical/toshlink DAC + Dayton DBA-100A to power speaker's (undecided on those still)
> 
> After hearing many cheap external sound set up I'll never go back to internal sound cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CraigsList +$200 can = great value in PC audio.


So are u saying that if ur plugged into a receiver there is no need to buy a better card? For my htpc, I have the onboard sound hooked up to my Denon avr589 via toslink


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mccaula718*
> 
> So are u saying that if ur plugged into a receiver there is no need to buy a better card? For my htpc, I have the onboard sound hooked up to my Denon avr589 via toslink


The receiver's internal DAC/Decoder is doing all of your decoding while hooked up to optical/toslink. Using an external sound system/card is ideal because it removes the "PSU noise" from the equation. Unless your receiver is of extremly low quality its going to be hard to find a better internal sound option.

What receiver if I may ask.

EDIT: When I read your post I didn't notice you listed the model number of your Denon. Keep it. Its not the best receiver by any mean's but your going to spend a great deal of money to find a sound card that will beat it.

Then comes another really big problem with internal sound cards. Powered Speaker's (Dun dun dun!). They are overpriced and pretty lame in comparison to passive speaker's.

By the time you get a sound card that will do better than your Denon, and then find some PC speaker's that will work well with them its going to be costly. Stick with your receiver unless you have an absolute need for more than 5.1 or it is unable to properly drive your desired speaker system to an appropriate volume level.


----------



## PatriBrod

Could anyone help me figure something out? Whenever I change something (ie the multiplier) in the rev.3 UD3 bios I get a message that says failure to boot. I use to have my Phenom running at 3.8 on my old mobo but now ANY change will just make it impossible to boot. I can't post any pics right (from phone at work) but it's a pain... Am I missing something obvious here?

Edit: The one tine I did successfully change it, the message came back upon restart.


----------



## Mccaula718

I contacted Gigabyte about the lack of APM on the version 3 like another member did a couple of pages ago:


----------



## WishinItWas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatriBrod*
> 
> Could anyone help me figure something out? Whenever I change something (ie the multiplier) in the rev.3 UD3 bios I get a message that says failure to boot. I use to have my Phenom running at 3.8 on my old mobo but now ANY change will just make it impossible to boot. I can't post any pics right (from phone at work) but it's a pain... Am I missing something obvious here?
> 
> Edit: The one tine I did successfully change it, the message came back upon restart.


Do you have HPC enabled? If so you need to boot into Bios, disable it then save and reboot into your operating system. Then reboot into the bios again and change the multiplier and other desired settings then save and boot to operating system. Finally reboot to bios one last time and swith the HPC back on and it should be fine. It's a pain in the button but has worked for me and was brought to my attention in another thread.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mccaula718*
> 
> I contacted Gigabyte about the lack of APM on the version 3 like another member did a couple of pages ago:


I'm glad others are doing this too. I really hope this fixes the throttling issue. So far I have not been happy at all with my purchase.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WishinItWas*
> 
> Do you have HPC enabled? If so you need to boot into Bios, disable it then save and reboot into your operating system. Then reboot into the bios again and change the multiplier and other desired settings then save and boot to operating system. Finally reboot to bios one last time and swith the HPC back on and it should be fine. It's a pain in the button but has worked for me and was brought to my attention in another thread.


That is what it sounds like and actually thanks to your post pointing this out I was able to avoid this ******ed issue, so thank you kind sir!


----------



## PatriBrod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WishinItWas*
> 
> Do you have HPC enabled? If so you need to boot into Bios, disable it then save and reboot into your operating system. Then reboot into the bios again and change the multiplier and other desired settings then save and boot to operating system. Finally reboot to bios one last time and swith the HPC back on and it should be fine. It's a pain in the button but has worked for me and was brought to my attention in another thread.


Will try thank you. But I can't seem to find HPC in the bios (FA version)


----------



## PatriBrod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WishinItWas*
> 
> Do you have HPC enabled? If so you need to boot into Bios, disable it then save and reboot into your operating system. Then reboot into the bios again and change the multiplier and other desired settings then save and boot to operating system. Finally reboot to bios one last time and swith the HPC back on and it should be fine. It's a pain in the button but has worked for me and was brought to my attention in another thread.


Oh god. I'm in love with a man on the internet. Thank you so much man. Finally was able to OC.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatriBrod*
> 
> Oh god. I'm in love with a man on the internet. Thank you so much man. Finally was able to OC.


ahh, Young bromance in the making!


----------



## WishinItWas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PatriBrod*
> 
> Oh god. I'm in love with a man on the internet. Thank you so much man. Finally was able to OC.










I was in the same boat a week ago, was provided that info on these forums, just paying it forward.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> ahh, Young bromance in the making!


Tis a beautiful thing!


----------



## PatriBrod




----------



## starships

Does anybody know if the 990FXA-UD5 is still shipping with the old bios revisions? I'm thinking about ordering one for my friends new build (with an 8350), but I don't have access to any other cpus. If I end up with an older revision, this board has no usb bios flashback afaik, I'd be kinda boned.

The other board I'm looking at is Asus' M5A99FX Pro.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *starships*
> 
> Does anybody know if the 990FXA-UD5 is still shipping with the old bios revisions? I'm thinking about ordering one for my friends new build (with an 8350), but I don't have access to any other cpus. If I end up with an older revision, this board has no usb bios flashback afaik, I'd be kinda boned.
> 
> The other board I'm looking at is Asus' M5A99FX Pro.


I bought my 990fxa-ud5 about a week ago and it came with F11 installed. I've flashed back to the F9 bios as well and it recognised my 8350.


----------



## Mccaula718

I just bought a new heat sink that uses push pull. Is there any way to set the fans to the same speed?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mccaula718*
> 
> I just bought a new heat sink that uses push pull. Is there any way to set the fans to the same speed?


PWM y-cable fan splitter maybe? Depends on the fans your using I guess.


----------



## Mccaula718

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> PWM y-cable fan splitter maybe? Depends on the fans your using I guess.


Just purchased one from fleabay. We'll see how it works when it arrives.


----------



## paulwarden2505

Hi guys just received my FX6300 to go with my GA 990 FXA UD7 mobo what are the best settings to get the most out of my cpu please as each time i OC open hardware monitor shows cpu running at 3.5 GHz instead of the 4GHz shown in bios


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> Hi guys just received my FX6300 to go with my GA 990 FXA UD7 mobo what are the best settings to get the most out of my cpu please as each time i OC open hardware monitor shows cpu running at 3.5 GHz instead of the 4GHz shown in bios


Turn off turbo boost.


----------



## paulwarden2505

Already done as well as cool and qiuet and apm


----------



## hurricane28

Hi all,

i still have some problems with my mobo again,

i set the FSB to 200 stock because i don't see any reason why i tune the FSB, so i set the multiplier to 23x

and the hyper transport to 2200 But it bounces all over the place

CPU is going from 4599 to 4600 HT is from 2199 to 2200 bus speed from 199 to 200 what could this be?

I set the cpu to 4.6 so i want it to be like 4.6 and not 4.599 it has not do this before.

the voltage seems to have its own mind as well is set it to 1.440 and it jumps from that to 1.456

also i turned every power saving off APM C6 etc. but it is still doing this weird thing.

So any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> i still have some problems with my mobo again,
> 
> i set the FSB to 200 stock because i don't see any reason why i tune the FSB, so i set the multiplier to 23x
> 
> and the hyper transport to 2200 But it bounces all over the place
> 
> CPU is going from 4599 to 4600 HT is from 2199 to 2200 bus speed from 199 to 200 what could this be?
> 
> I set the cpu to 4.6 so i want it to be like 4.6 and not 4.599 it has not do this before.
> 
> the voltage seems to have its own mind as well is set it to 1.440 and it jumps from that to 1.456
> 
> also i turned every power saving off APM C6 etc. but it is still doing this weird thing.
> 
> So any advice would be appreciated.


None of that is alarming, execpt your CPU-Voltage. That is jumping up because of V-Boost or LLC is set too high. If you don't have LLC, its V-boost, lower voltage so that it will "boost" to the appropriate level. If you have LLC on your board version, turn it down a notch and check voltage under stress.

Your clock speeds WILL fluctuate up and down like that. Nothing you can do about it. Why you raise HT-Link? The difference between 4.6Ghz and 4.599Ghz is literally nothing. I would be shocked if it changed the outcome of any benchmark's, or had an affect on FPS or any other performance.


----------



## fabrizziop

Hey GA-990FXA-UD3 rev3 owners, I have one of those boards with FA bios and a FX-8350... Should I upgrade to FC bios or are any known flaws with it?. Thanks.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> None of that is alarming, execpt your CPU-Voltage. That is jumping up because of V-Boost or LLC is set too high. If you don't have LLC, its V-boost, lower voltage so that it will "boost" to the appropriate level. If you have LLC on your board version, turn it down a notch and check voltage under stress.
> 
> Your clock speeds WILL fluctuate up and down like that. Nothing you can do about it. Why you raise HT-Link? The difference between 4.6Ghz and 4.599Ghz is literally nothing. I would be shocked if it changed the outcome of any benchmark's, or had an affect on FPS or any other performance.


Ok thanx i will take a look at that.

The ht link is stock at 2200 of my mobo, i don't think it will increase speed if i set it to 2400 or 2600 or i have to do some other drastic stuff.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ok thanx i will take a look at that.
> 
> The ht link is stock at 2200 of my mobo, i don't think it will increase speed if i set it to 2400 or 2600 or i have to do some other drastic stuff.


I was under the impression that raising the HT-Link wouldn't do much. But I'm the wrong person to ask. I'm still feeling out the new AMD chips as far as specific setting's and value's.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fabrizziop*
> 
> Hey GA-990FXA-UD3 rev3 owners, I have one of those boards with FA bios and a FX-8350... Should I upgrade to FC bios or are any known flaws with it?. Thanks.


I haven't noticed any change, good or bad, going from FA to FC.


----------



## hurricane28

Hi all,

i am thinking about to buy an FX 8350 and my question is:

Would my Cooler master hyper 212 evo be enough when i am overclocking it and what would be the greatest upgrade from my FX 6200 to FX 8350


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> i am thinking about to buy an FX 8350 and my question is:
> 
> Would my Cooler master hyper 212 evo be enough when i am overclocking it and what would be the greatest upgrade from my FX 6200 to FX 8350


What kind of OC are you planning? I dont know much about the water side of things (yet) but I am able to get 4.5 ghz out of my 8350 on air. Maxed out so far at 52c. After market cooler of course. If you look at my rig, my case fans are not installed... in the pic or parts list.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> What kind of OC are you planning? I dont know much about the water side of things (yet) but I am able to get 4.5 ghz out of my 8350 on air. Maxed out so far at 52c. After market cooler of course. If you look at my rig, my case fans are not installed... in the pic or parts list.


I wan't the best performance i can get out of that bad boy hehe

but i was wondering if my cooler is up to the job, if not i need to buy another one.

i am even not sure if i should do it because my fx 6200 is pretty fast too and it is no bottleneck

That's why i ask what would the main reason to buy fx 8350 over my fx 6200


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I wan't the best performance i can get out of that bad boy hehe
> 
> but i was wondering if my cooler is up to the job, if not i need to buy another one.
> 
> i am even not sure if i should do it because my fx 6200 is pretty fast too and it is no bottleneck
> 
> That's why i ask what would the main reason to buy fx 8350 over my fx 6200


The cooler 212 Evo is a great _budget_ cooler. You will be able to get some solid overclocking with it but you will be upgrading for "the best" performance out of it.

I also want to point out that "best performance" will be different from person to person and rig to rig.

You won't need much of an OC to game on either the FX 6200 or 8350. You simply don't have enough GPU to bog them down, Both should be able to power your GPU to full load without a problem at stock speeds. So all overclocking would do in this situation is cause more heat with no performance benefit. Conclusion would be that your 212 evo would be a fine choice provided your happy with the fan and noise output.

Unless you just want to push it to the max just for giggle's or to handle encoding/actual work. Then go water loop, custom..not CLC. Also your GPU upgrade path should be taken into account. SLI in the near future maybe?


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Guys! I just got a some beta bios for the UD3 rev 3.0 motherboard. Gonna give it shot now! Will report findings!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> The cooler 212 Evo is a great _budget_ cooler. You will be able to get some solid overclocking with it but you will be upgrading for "the best" performance out of it.
> 
> I also want to point out that "best performance" will be different from person to person and rig to rig.
> 
> You won't need much of an OC to game on either the FX 6200 or 8350. You simply don't have enough GPU to bog them down, Both should be able to power your GPU to full load without a problem at stock speeds. So all overclocking would do in this situation is cause more heat with no performance benefit. Conclusion would be that your 212 evo would be a fine choice provided your happy with the fan and noise output.
> 
> Unless you just want to push it to the max just for giggle's or to handle encoding/actual work. Then go water loop, custom..not CLC. Also your GPU upgrade path should be taken into account. SLI in the near future maybe?


Oke thnx for the reply.

the main thing i do with it is gaming and with this setup i got now i get an pretty good result but i was wondering if it would beneficial to upgrade cpu but i don't see any for now because in every game i get higher than 30 FPS even in crysis 3 with no problem at all.

maybe i go for SLI with the same card so 2 msi 660 ti PE in the future. but than i need to go with the 8350 right, cos my 6200 can't keep up than.

also i am looking for an good gaming monitor with good colors because i now have the samsung syncmaster S23B550 but i am not happy at all about that screen because the colors are not very good and it is ghosting like a m... in FPS games.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

SUCCESS! I got a new bios for the Rev 3.0 boards just today and after an hour of testing it is successful! Hopefully this bios update will roll out soon!

Will definitely fine tune more next week and hopefully get up to 5.0 GHz.

HAPPY CLOCKING!

Edit: Nevermind. Soul is crushed. Still throttling.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So I'm assuming this bios is solving the throttling problem? And I must ask how did you get it? Because I want it Lol


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Oke thnx for the reply.
> 
> the main thing i do with it is gaming and with this setup i got now i get an pretty good result but i was wondering if it would beneficial to upgrade cpu but i don't see any for now because in every game i get higher than 30 FPS even in crysis 3 with no problem at all.
> 
> maybe i go for SLI with the same card so 2 msi 660 ti PE in the future. but than i need to go with the 8350 right, cos my 6200 can't keep up than.
> 
> also i am looking for an good gaming monitor with good colors because i now have the samsung syncmaster S23B550 but i am not happy at all about that screen because the colors are not very good and it is ghosting like a m... in FPS games.


If your main use is gaming then your current GPU will be a bottleneck long before a 6/8 core AMD chip will. Now if you start overclocking your GPU and get a second for SLI you might need to start overclocking your chip to see a gain in gaming.

Also, shoot for 60 FPS on a 60 Hz monitor, or 120 on a 120hz monitor at your desired resolution and settings. Its a myth that the human eye can only see 30/60 or what ever other number has been tossed out. People tend to confuse the monitor's ability to refresh the image with the human eye not being able to see it. exceeding the refresh rate of a monitor can cause ghosting, image tearing and inputlag. All depends on the monitor.

Look at the BenQ 120Hz monitor for an epic gaming monitor. Most samsung display's are pretty nice though. Avoid TV's as monitor's, especially big screen's.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So I'm assuming this bios is solving the throttling problem? And I must ask how did you get it? Because I want it Lol


I contacted support a while ago and they finally messaged me today giving me this beta bios. But unfortunately, after trying to stress test again, I still get throttling. My soul is utterly crushed right now.

I think it has to do something with the fact that everytime I reboot, it seems like the computer will turn on for a split second then back off, then back on again. Almost like it's changing some settings in the BIOs. But nevertheless, I will continue to try and see if I can get this **** to work.


----------



## InsideJob

AMD is already the weaker link in the CPU market. I don't understand why they would do this...
Too bad, Intel here I come







Once I can afford it


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> I contacted support a while ago and they finally messaged me today giving me this beta bios. But unfortunately, after trying to stress test again, I still get throttling. My soul is utterly crushed right now.
> 
> I think it has to do something with the fact that everytime I reboot, it seems like the computer will turn on for a split second then back off, then back on again. Almost like it's changing some settings in the BIOs. But nevertheless, I will continue to try and see if I can get this **** to work.


My machine does that same exact thing at boot. It only happens when HPC mode is enabled. If this new BIOS doesn't fix the throttling I'm selling this turd on Ebay for whatever I can get out of it and going back to Asus lol. I would tell them that this did nothing to fix the problem.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> If your main use is gaming then your current GPU will be a bottleneck long before a 6/8 core AMD chip will. Now if you start overclocking your GPU and get a second for SLI you might need to start overclocking your chip to see a gain in gaming.
> 
> Also, shoot for 60 FPS on a 60 Hz monitor, or 120 on a 120hz monitor at your desired resolution and settings. Its a myth that the human eye can only see 30/60 or what ever other number has been tossed out. People tend to confuse the monitor's ability to refresh the image with the human eye not being able to see it. exceeding the refresh rate of a monitor can cause ghosting, image tearing and inputlag. All depends on the monitor.
> 
> Look at the BenQ 120Hz monitor for an epic gaming monitor. Most samsung display's are pretty nice though. Avoid TV's as monitor's, especially big screen's.


i was aware of that the human eye can see more than 60hz an friend of mine is optician so he told me and i can see an clearly difference between a 60 or 120 hz monitor but i thought the samsung was good but i was wrong the samsung shows me unrealistic colors and is lagging like hell when i am gaming.

I am going to look for benQ monitor if i can find one 120hz here. also i been looking for this monitor: ASUS VG248QE Black 24" 144Hz 1ms 3D LCD/LED
They say it must be pretty good as well.


----------



## Mccaula718

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> My machine does that same exact thing at boot. It only happens when HPC mode is enabled. If this new BIOS doesn't fix the throttling I'm selling this turd on Ebay for whatever I can get out of it and going back to Asus lol. I would tell them that this did nothing to fix the problem.


Do you see throttling at any other time other than stability testing though? I also find it annoying but my cpu doesn't throttle any other time. Hours of bf3 w/o throttling so I don't really mind


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I haven't noticed any outside of stability testing but you can't tell if it's truly stable with it throttling


----------



## hurricane28

ok, i don't understand, my voltage keeps jumping around

i set the voltage to +100 and LLC to ultimate but it keeps jumping

why can't it be stable at the voltage i want it to be? this mobo is getting me more and more irritated about all of that automatic nonsense stuff

is there a way that i can disable all of that?


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> ok, i don't understand, my voltage keeps jumping around
> 
> i set the voltage to +100 and LLC to ultimate but it keeps jumping
> 
> why can't it be stable at the voltage i want it to be? this mobo is getting me more and more irritated about all of that automatic nonsense stuff
> 
> is there a way that i can disable all of that?


how is it jumping? Almost every single motherboard on the planet is going to Vboost and Vdroop. That is why Load Line Calibration was created. To assist in the stabilization of CPU-Voltage.

Turn off LLC, remove the Voltage modifier, manually set all voltages to stock. This will allow you to get an idea of how much your voltage is actually dropping or boosting.

With that info you will be able to properly set the voltage modifier and LLC to maintain closer to constant Voltage..

Heck even my i5 2500k on an ASUS p8z68z-PRO/GEN3 has unstable voltage until I calculate how much I need to modify each voltage. If I just started stabbing in the dark my voltage would be all over the place...

My UD3 actually has very little droop. and I'm actually of the opinion the problem is not the Gigabyte boards so much as the BD CPU's... I've set up a few UD3's 5's and 7's with various Phenom II's and all have been flawless. Twice I tried to build a BullDozer based system with a UD3 and it was a nightmare... changed back to the 1100T and it was like butta all the way up to 4.2Ghz on all 6 cores.


----------



## hurricane28

maybe its me LOL i got to get used to the newer systems iguess

Now it is not even jumping around its allmost stable at 1.440 volts @ 4.6 ghz

it was bevore jumping between 1.440 to 1.465 but the CPU is completely stable and the temps are great by 52 at max

i test with aida64 btw, i don't know if that's an good program to test but when it is stable at aida64 my system is stable so i guess its good one.

o BTW i am going to order the ASUS VG248QE Black 24" 144Hz 1ms 3D LCD/LED monitor so thumbs up and hope that is a good screen instead of that samsung crap with their ghosting stuff.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> maybe its me LOL i got to get used to the newer systems iguess
> 
> Now it is not even jumping around its allmost stable at 1.440 volts @ 4.6 ghz
> 
> it was bevore jumping between 1.440 to 1.465 but the CPU is completely stable and the temps are great by 52 at max
> 
> i test with aida64 btw, i don't know if that's an good program to test but when it is stable at aida64 my system is stable so i guess its good one.
> 
> o BTW i am going to order the ASUS VG248QE Black 24" 144Hz 1ms 3D LCD/LED monitor so thumbs up and hope that is a good screen instead of that samsung crap with their ghosting stuff.


My personal advice is to not let your self become dependent on a single monitoring program or stress testing program. Most all of them are free and work differently than each other.

Regaurdless of the system, AMD, Intel, Nvidia, or AMDI/ATI overclocking is a PITA! I went from a long time AMD user to an i5, after looking in the BIOS on first boot up I felt like a ******. So many voltage's to set, soo much crap to fiddle with and tweak. It was very very overwhelming compared to my AMD's lol.

I have almost bought that monitor twice now. Great Review's from a gaming perspective, 144 Hz SON! Your 660TI is going to get its arse handed to it lol..


Spoiler: Warning: Funny tip for your new monitor!



Don't be a dork like a friend of mine and complain about 120Hz(144 in your case) sucks because you forgot to turn off Vsync lulz.. Yes, actually happens to someone I know


----------



## hurricane28

yes i know that by now indeed.

but well my system is nice and stable and im happy with it for now.

i would like to SLI in the future just for the fun of it and of course performance but i don't know yet because here things are very expensive compare where u from.

i am still looking for that monitor and here it is very expensive and only one company can deliver that type of monitor for a whopping 330 euro's

so i am thinking about it cos its a very good monitor.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> yes i know that by now indeed.
> 
> but well my system is nice and stable and im happy with it for now.
> 
> i would like to SLI in the future just for the fun of it and of course performance but i don't know yet because here things are very expensive compare where u from.
> 
> i am still looking for that monitor and here it is very expensive and only one company can deliver that type of monitor for a whopping 330 euro's
> 
> so i am thinking about it cos its a very good monitor.


That's pretty expensive!

Its cheaper here but still an expensive monitor, I have backed out so far simply because my current GPU cannot maintain a constant 100+ FPS(at desired graphics settings), So it would be a fruitless upgrade for me at this time. It make's more sence to me to get the spiffy monitor after I have the GPU horsepower to run it..

But your going to better/more accurate color representation, so you would get more out of it than I would.


----------



## toshevopc

Hi ! I have 990FXA UD5 rev 1.x MB and 1 month after i bought it rev 3.0 was released .... so i want to ask you is there any huge difference between rev 1.x and rev 3.0, (in performance and other things) also is this uefi bios better than mine, i have amd fx 8350 will it be faster on rev 3.0 MB ? and can i put this uefi bios on my MB?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toshevopc*
> 
> Hi ! I have 990FXA UD5 rev 1.x MB and 1 month after i bought it rev 3.0 was released .... so i want to ask you is there any huge difference between rev 1.x and rev 3.0, (in performance and other things) also is this uefi bios better than mine, i have amd fx 8350 will it be faster on rev 3.0 MB ? and can i put this uefi bios on my MB?


Rev 1.x board cant and wont get UEFI.

If you have a 1.1 or 1.2 I would say keep it, they are great clocking boards and solid. The 3.0 boards people seem to be having issues with the BIOS as of late... until gigabyte pulls their act together.


----------



## toshevopc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Rev 1.x board cant and wont get UEFI.
> 
> If you have a 1.1 or 1.2 I would say keep it, they are great clocking boards and solid. The 3.0 boards people seem to be having issues with the BIOS as of late... until gigabyte pulls their act together.


yes its rev 1.1 but what are the advantages of rev 3.0 mobo in performance or there is no performance advantage ?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toshevopc*
> 
> yes its rev 1.1 but what are the advantages of rev 3.0 mobo in performance or there is no performance advantage ?


No performance advamtage, Same board different BIOS essentially... as long as you have LLC you good. Im on a 1.0 that doesnt have LLC...

1.1 is probably the most solid rev out of the UD3 boards.


----------



## itomic

Well, i just bought UD-5 REV 3.0 for my own amusement, even do i already have UD-3 and brand new M5A97 EVO R2.0. Now its Gigabyte turn to roll out new BIOS so i can overclock the sh...t of this chip







.


----------



## toshevopc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> No performance advamtage, Same board different BIOS essentially... as long as you have LLC you good. Im on a 1.0 that doesnt have LLC...
> 
> 1.1 is probably the most solid rev out of the UD3 boards.


ok and what is LLC


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toshevopc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> No performance advamtage, Same board different BIOS essentially... as long as you have LLC you good. Im on a 1.0 that doesnt have LLC...
> 
> 1.1 is probably the most solid rev out of the UD3 boards.
> 
> 
> 
> ok and what is LLC
Click to expand...

LLC = Load Line Calibration or Load Line Control. It is a series of six settings from auto, low, medium, high, Ultra, and Extreme. It limits and or eliminates Vdroop ( the drop in voltage when load is applied)
generally boards with LLC are more stable when overclocked and allows for a lower vcore setting as you do not have to add additional voltage to compensate for the drop in voltage by running at a higher
vcore at idle or low load situations.

Here is an example of the effects of with LLC or no LLC. This is from a review AI did on the subject. The board is the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 Rev1.0 vs Rev 1.1

UD7 Rev 1.1 LLC set to Ultra


UD7 Rev 1.0 No LLC


Here is an illustration of much of a difference LLC can make. note the voltage needed to achieve 4.6GHz without LLC, and how much lower voltage is needed to achieve 4.8GHz with LLC.




Hope that helped


----------



## itomic

Wich settings for LLC is recommended ??


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Wich settings for LLC is recommended ??


Hi itomic,
That depends on how much vdroop you are experiencing and how you want the vcore to behave when load is applied. each of the (in this case six) settings has a different characteristic. For example a medium setting on the UD7 will allow for a small drop in voltage when load is applied whereas a high setting will hold the line.
This setting for example is the 'Ultra High' setting and actually bumps the Vcore a small amount when load is applied, and then hold it there.

UD7 Rev 1.1 LLC set to Ultra


Best to experiment with the setting and how they behave with the CPU being used and set the one with the characteristic that works the best for what you are trying to accomplish.

I wrote a review comparing two Gigabyte UD7 boards, One with LLC and one without if you're interested.
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/gigabyte_990fxaud7/


----------



## toshevopc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> LLC = Load Line Calibration or Load Line Control. It is a series of six settings from auto, low, medium, high, Ultra, and Extreme. It limits and or eliminates Vdroop ( the drop in voltage when load is applied)
> generally boards with LLC are more stable when overclocked and allows for a lower vcore setting as you do not have to add additional voltage to compensate for the drop in voltage by running at a higher
> vcore at idle or low load situations.
> 
> Here is an example of the effects of with LLC or no LLC. This is from a review AI did on the subject. The board is the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 Rev1.0 vs Rev 1.1
> 
> UD7 Rev 1.1 LLC set to Ultra
> 
> 
> UD7 Rev 1.0 No LLC
> 
> 
> Here is an illustration of much of a difference LLC can make. note the voltage needed to achieve 4.6GHz without LLC, and how much lower voltage is needed to achieve 4.8GHz with LLC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helped


and do i have it(LLC)? my mobo is FXA-UD5 rev1.1


----------



## itomic

Yes.


----------



## toshevopc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Yes.


thanks


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hi itomic,
> That depends on how much vdroop you are experiencing and how you want the vcore to behave when load is applied. each of the (in this case six) settings has a different characteristic. For example a medium setting on the UD7 will allow for a small drop in voltage when load is applied whereas a high setting will hold the line.
> This setting for example is the 'Ultra High' setting and actually bumps the Vcore a small amount when load is applied, and then hold it there.
> 
> UD7 Rev 1.1 LLC set to Ultra
> 
> 
> Best to experiment with the setting and how they behave with the CPU being used and set the one with the characteristic that works the best for what you are trying to accomplish.
> 
> I wrote a review comparing two Gigabyte UD7 boards, One with LLC and one without if you're interested.
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/gigabyte_990fxaud7/


Aha very interesting

Can u also explain why my board is jumping? i mean i overclocked my fx 6200 to 4.6 ghz but the voltage is jumping around but that is ok i guess but the HT link and bus speed is jumping too

It did not do this before and i changed the LLC to extreme in the bios i set it to 4.6 but it is jumping between 4.599 to 4.600 before it was stable at 4.6 so i don't understand what is wrong.

They said ram voltage control but i don't have such thing on my mobo LOL so can't change it.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hi itomic,
> That depends on how much vdroop you are experiencing and how you want the vcore to behave when load is applied. each of the (in this case six) settings has a different characteristic. For example a medium setting on the UD7 will allow for a small drop in voltage when load is applied whereas a high setting will hold the line.
> This setting for example is the 'Ultra High' setting and actually bumps the Vcore a small amount when load is applied, and then hold it there.
> 
> UD7 Rev 1.1 LLC set to Ultra
> 
> 
> Best to experiment with the setting and how they behave with the CPU being used and set the one with the characteristic that works the best for what you are trying to accomplish.
> 
> I wrote a review comparing two Gigabyte UD7 boards, One with LLC and one without if you're interested.
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/gigabyte_990fxaud7/
> 
> 
> 
> Aha very interesting
> 
> Can u also explain why my board is jumping? i mean i overclocked my fx 6200 to 4.6 ghz but the voltage is jumping around but that is ok i guess but the HT link and bus speed is jumping too
> 
> It did not do this before and i changed the LLC to extreme in the bios i set it to 4.6 but it is jumping between 4.599 to 4.600 before it was stable at 4.6 so i don't understand what is wrong.
> 
> They said ram voltage control but i don't have such thing on my mobo LOL so can't change it.
Click to expand...

You mean that say CPU-z is showing the frequency moving between 4599MHz and 4600MHz? Thats is nothing, the frequency of the cpu will move about a few MHz and that is normal.
Mine for example will move around from 5199 to 5203. nothing to be concerned about.


----------



## hurricane28

aha oke,

the FSB and HT link is changing as well and i never seen this before so i was asking why and how and what.

but it seems that i don't have to be concerned about it









I must say the board is pretty darn solid tho.

Here another question: should i let the HT link stock or is it better to set it to like 2400? but when i do windows does not boot and i have to do an start up recovery it says.

so my question is: is that gain a lot of speed because some people says yes and other no also are there some tips orso to gain some speed in this boards?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> aha oke,
> 
> the FSB and HT link is changing as well and i never seen this before so i was asking why and how and what.
> 
> but it seems that i don't have to be concerned about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say the board is pretty darn solid tho.
> 
> Here another question: should i let the HT link stock or is it better to set it to like 2400? but when i do windows does not boot and i have to do an start up recovery it says.
> 
> so my question is: is that gain a lot of speed because some people says yes and other no also are there some tips orso to gain some speed in this boards?


Unless you are benchmarking , running multiple GPU's, etc. You won't see a tangible difference. but you could try adding between 05-.10v to see if it stabilizes it at 2400 if you want.
BTW, I always recommend a small (80mm) spot fan on the VRM/NB heatsink on the UD3. There are a lotof folks speaking of stability issues and very high NB/VRM temps when pushing high OC's on the UD3


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Unless you are benchmarking , running multiple GPU's, etc. You won't see a tangible difference. but you could try adding between 05-.10v to see if it stabilizes it at 2400 if you want.
> BTW, I always recommend a small (80mm) spot fan on the VRM/NB heatsink on the UD3. There are a lotof folks speaking of stability issues and very high NB/VRM temps when pushing high OC's on the UD3


okay, and how can i see the NB temperatures?

I am very pleased by the board and it is realy stable but i am really concerned about the HT and bus speed drops because it did not do this before.

i will go look for an heatsink for the NB if i can find it.

Thnx for your advice


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp

Its on the front page of this club, good luck.


----------



## ElkyJnr

Looking at o/clocking my CPU but haven't had much luck as I'm new to oc is any1 able to help me out if I gue u all the details etc?.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> Looking at o/clocking my CPU but haven't had much luck as I'm new to oc is any1 able to help me out if I gue u all the details etc?.


Fill out your sig rig details and we can get started.

Scroll up and click on "My Profile"
Scroll down and fill out your sig rig detail's.
From there someone around here is sure to have some helpful tid-bits.


----------



## blue-cat

Hey all,
Finally decided to try and push my 965 and understand overclocking it before I switch back to air cooling. Hopefully if I understand overclocking more then I'll get a tighter, more stable, and higher overclock on air.
I had a go last night but it froze preparing the desktop at 4Ghz. I tried varying the voltage in increments and found that at about 2.53 was the only voltage that it would get that far. I'm guessing that I need to raise the FSB but would love to start overclocking my ram too as it's some cheap samsung 1333. Also, don't want to try and mess around with too many settigns as when you dive in too deep you end up swimming for the side too quickly!

It's currently at 3.8Ghz at about 2.52V. This seems ridiculously high (the default is 2.5V at 3.4Ghz). But maybe because its a power hungry chip...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Unless you are benchmarking , running multiple GPU's, etc. You won't see a tangible difference. but you could try adding between 05-.10v to see if it stabilizes it at 2400 if you want.
> BTW, I always recommend a small (80mm) spot fan on the VRM/NB heatsink on the UD3. There are a lotof folks speaking of stability issues and very high NB/VRM temps when pushing high OC's on the UD3
> 
> 
> 
> okay, and how can i see the NB temperatures?
> 
> I am very pleased by the board and it is realy stable but i am really concerned about the HT and bus speed drops because it did not do this before.
> 
> i will go look for an heatsink for the NB if i can find it.
> 
> Thnx for your advice
Click to expand...

Anytime








You don't necessarily need to go find a NB heatsink, just put a spot fan on it, it works well. I as a rule spot fam the NB/VRM heatsink everytime. just find a quiet 80mm fan and put it up against it
like this:


My NB temps never see 40c


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blue-cat*
> 
> Hey all,
> Finally decided to try and push my 965 and understand overclocking it before I switch back to air cooling. Hopefully if I understand overclocking more then I'll get a tighter, more stable, and higher overclock on air.
> I had a go last night but it froze preparing the desktop at 4Ghz. I tried varying the voltage in increments and found that at about 2.53 was the only voltage that it would get that far. I'm guessing that I need to raise the FSB but would love to start overclocking my ram too as it's some cheap samsung 1333. Also, don't want to try and mess around with too many settigns as when you dive in too deep you end up swimming for the side too quickly!
> 
> It's currently at 3.8Ghz at about 2.52V. This seems ridiculously high (the default is 2.5V at 3.4Ghz). But maybe because its a power hungry chip...


You upping the wrong voltage. Judging by the voltage you posted, I'd say your pushing the CPU vdda voltage...

your CPU voltage you don't want to exceed 1.55v for 24/7 use. But 3.8 on stock voltage ain't bad. Now up the right voltage a tad and shoot for 4ghz. Oh, and try to get at least 2.6 Nb as well... much speed...


----------



## itomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
> TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
> TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp
> 
> Its on the front page of this club, good luck.


"TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp" This isnt true !!!


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> You upping the wrong voltage. Judging by the voltage you posted, I'd say your pushing the CPU vdda voltage...
> 
> your CPU voltage you don't want to exceed 1.55v for 24/7 use. But 3.8 on stock voltage ain't bad. Now up the right voltage a tad and shoot for 4ghz. Oh, and try to get at least 2.6 Nb as well... much speed...


bahahahahahha I KNEW IT! I was sure I'd overclocked to 4.2 on my last board really basically by upping the multiplier and the voltage a little but I couldn't see CPU voltage because...

I DIDN'T SCROLL DOWN!!!!!























Such a fool...

Anway, running it at 4.0Ghz at 1.5V now







Will try and up the FSB then run prime95 while I sleep tonight and see if i wake up to a charred wreck


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> "TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp" This isnt true !!!


yeah I'm not sure what it is but I'm hardware monitor tmpin2 matches cpu package temperature, so my thoughts are that it's cpu temp.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> "TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp" This isnt true !!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> yeah I'm not sure what it is but I'm hardware monitor tmpin2 matches cpu package temperature, so my thoughts are that it's cpu temp.


Impossible. My system would have fried a long time ago, My 955BE would never be stable @ 4.0 Ghz if my CPU or Socket were hitting anything close to what TMPIN02 read's regularly on my board. Been up and running for well over a year like that too. It would have died or show massive sign's of degradation at those temps.

Click

Stop bringing this up unless you have some shred of proof.

I'm thinking your CPU choice is to blame for your tmep's, rather than false labeling.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Impossible. My system would have fried a long time ago, My 955BE would never be stable @ 4.0 Ghz if my CPU or Socket were hitting anything close to what TMPIN02 read's regularly on my board. Been up and running for well over a year like that too. It would have died or show massive sign's of degradation at those temps.
> 
> Click
> 
> Stop bringing this up unless you have some shred of proof.
> 
> I'm thinking your CPU choice is to blame for your tmep's, rather than false labeling.


Because your link is any more proof than what we have experienced? Perhaps it is the CPU we are using however it doesn't change the fact that TMPIN2 matches CPU Package temperatures exactly in all situations. Have a look at these screen shots for yourself.

This would be at idle nothing at all going on.


This is all 8 cores loaded in Prime


This is 4 cores loaded in Prime


And finally this is all cores at idle just after stopping Prime completely. Which best shows what we observe. Take notice TMPIN1 is still 42C while TMPIN2 and CPU Package are both 23C


What does this prove? This proves that TMPIN2 matches the CPU Package temperatures identically. Perhaps TMPIN2 is package temp and TMPIN1 is core temp. I don't know, but what I do know is that I highly doubt my northbridge heats up and cools down as fast as the CPU does.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Anytime
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't necessarily need to go find a NB heatsink, just put a spot fan on it, it works well. I as a rule spot fam the NB/VRM heatsink everytime. just find a quiet 80mm fan and put it up against it
> like this:
> 
> 
> My NB temps never see 40c


How did you attached/secured that fan there?


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Because your link is any more proof than what we have experienced? Perhaps it is the CPU we are using however it doesn't change the fact that TMPIN2 matches CPU Package temperatures exactly in all situations. Have a look at these screen shots for yourself.
> 
> This would be at idle nothing at all going on.
> 
> 
> This is all 8 cores loaded in Prime
> 
> 
> This is 4 cores loaded in Prime
> 
> 
> And finally this is all cores at idle just after stopping Prime completely. Which best shows what we observe. Take notice TMPIN1 is still 42C while TMPIN2 and CPU Package are both 23C
> 
> 
> What does this prove? This proves that TMPIN2 matches the CPU Package temperatures identically. Perhaps TMPIN2 is package temp and TMPIN1 is core temp. I don't know, but what I do know is that I highly doubt my northbridge heats up and cools down as fast as the CPU does.


I guess It differs depending what CPU you have on.
For me, when I OC CPU the temp of the NB goes up exponentially, it gets like a 10c to 15c more because of the OC, which to me makes no sense. I'm starting to get paranoid and thinking is linked to the VRM's temp somehow.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Because your link is any more proof than what we have experienced? Perhaps it is the CPU we are using however it doesn't change the fact that TMPIN2 matches CPU Package temperatures exactly in all situations. Have a look at these screen shots for yourself.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This would be at idle nothing at all going on.
> 
> 
> This is all 8 cores loaded in Prime
> 
> 
> This is 4 cores loaded in Prime
> 
> 
> And finally this is all cores at idle just after stopping Prime completely. Which best shows what we observe. Take notice TMPIN1 is still 42C while TMPIN2 and CPU Package are both 23C
> 
> 
> 
> What does this prove? This proves that TMPIN2 matches the CPU Package temperatures identically. Perhaps TMPIN2 is package temp and TMPIN1 is core temp. I don't know, but what I do know is that I highly doubt my northbridge heats up and cools down as fast as the CPU does.


I think someone, somewhere, crossed them wires in your motherboard lol, shouldn't be the same reading as your package:


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I guess It differs depending what CPU you have on.
> For me, when I OC CPU the temp of the NB goes up exponentially, it gets like a 10c to 15c more because of the OC, which to me makes no sense. I'm starting to get paranoid and thinking is linked to the VRM's temp somehow.


I honestly don't know what is going on or even what TMPIN2 reflects. It definitely matches my CPU, why this would change with a different CPU I don't know and really makes no sense. If its really NB temps its shouldn't change just because a different CPU is used. What I do know my board throttles if I push it any harder than I am right now. The throttling seems to be VRM related even though I have a fan on them. The temps are a bit higher than usual right now because for whatever reason its hot here in good old Florida today and I haven't bothered to turn on the AC yet lol.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> I think someone, somewhere, crossed them wires in your motherboard lol, shouldn't be the same reading as your package:


lol one thing is for sure, I hate this motherboard. Yours is clearly showing different sensor temps than mine. Gigabyte's quality control must be a bunch of ******ed spider monkeys or something for this amount of problems and inconsistency to escape into the wild.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> lol one thing is for sure, I hate this motherboard. Yours is clearly showing different sensor temps than mine. Gigabyte's quality control must be a bunch of ******ed spider monkeys or something for this amount of problems and inconsistency to escape into the wild.


WELL.... I am careful with my words in regards to it, as I have been round-house kicked to the face before while on the subject. But my 0.1v swings under load, inevitable overvoltage with every bios and LLC setting and throttling VRMs have definitely caused me some anger. Lol.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Getting the voltages I want is definitely a task lol it's not the most friendly system out there.


----------



## MadGoat

Well I know tmpin2 follows my cpu temp exactly until my package temp reaches 50c. After that tempin2 will continue to climb to about 65c under OCCT stress...

Socket temp? I don't know... But Putting a fan on the NB cooler doesn't change the tempin2 reading...


----------



## ElkyJnr

Updated my rig build.. hoping someone can guide me step by step..

thanks again


----------



## itomic

I have Gigabyte-990FXA-UD-5. Word about throttling. Im in BIOS, seting all that needs to be set. F10 and reeboot in Windows. We have throttling. Going back to BIOS, change only HPC to ENABLE and hit F10 rebbot in to rhe Windows. I have run IBT 20 runs, no thrittling !!


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Because your link is any more proof than what we have experienced? Perhaps it is the CPU we are using however it doesn't change the fact that TMPIN2 matches CPU Package temperatures exactly in all situations. Have a look at these screen shots for yourself.
> 
> This would be at idle nothing at all going on.
> 
> 
> This is all 8 cores loaded in Prime
> 
> 
> This is 4 cores loaded in Prime
> 
> 
> And finally this is all cores at idle just after stopping Prime completely. Which best shows what we observe. Take notice TMPIN1 is still 42C while TMPIN2 and CPU Package are both 23C
> 
> 
> What does this prove? This proves that TMPIN2 matches the CPU Package temperatures identically. Perhaps TMPIN2 is package temp and TMPIN1 is core temp. I don't know, but what I do know is that I highly doubt my northbridge heats up and cools down as fast as the CPU does.


How about you contact gigabyte support and ask them. I have already asked. And posted the results, It was taken down do to drama caused by another member that couldn't prove his opinion.

I'll say it one last time then just start squelching member's.

"My CPU whould be TOTALLY DESTROYED!" if it was the CPU package, Socket, or anything else to do with the CPU. So your saying I have a verry magical golden 955 that can hold 4.0Ghz @1.44Vcore with up to 80c temps and do this for the more than a year 24/7. All I can say is impossible with the stability and time its been up and running. Post proof, not speculation.

I swear this board is like a magnet....

Why would a mod for the GIGABYTE COMMUNITY FORUM lie?

I swear.. OCN is sliding down hill everyday.

Are you positive that your Temp monitor program is actually reading your Core Temps correct? it must be very very cold for your chip to idle at a low 55f, it must very very cold in your room.


----------



## blue-cat

set it running overnight and thought it had crashed but turns out it had only hibernated. I'm taking 3.7Ghz @ 1.425V stable after about a 3/4 hour prime95 run. I'll check if my mobo has LLC as when I put it to 1.5 and 1.525 it was jumping to over 1.55 at points so I'm not too happy about going over 1.5. Tbh, with the amount of dust in my rad I might get better results when I install the phanteks


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> My personal advice is to not let your self become dependent on a single monitoring program or stress testing program. Most all of them are free and work differently than each other.
> 
> Regaurdless of the system, AMD, Intel, Nvidia, or AMDI/ATI overclocking is a PITA! I went from a long time AMD user to an i5, after looking in the BIOS on first boot up I felt like a ******. So many voltage's to set, soo much crap to fiddle with and tweak. It was very very overwhelming compared to my AMD's lol.
> 
> I have almost bought that monitor twice now. Great Review's from a gaming perspective, 144 Hz SON! Your 660TI is going to get its arse handed to it lol..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Funny tip for your new monitor!
> 
> 
> 
> Don't be a dork like a friend of mine and complain about 120Hz(144 in your case) sucks because you forgot to turn off Vsync lulz.. Yes, actually happens to someone I know


Heyy

i bought that asus monitor and i must say it is pretty impressive, i can't even compare it to my other samsung screen so i took it back right away lol

they were not pleased that i returned it but i said it is crap and the colors are not bright at all hehe

But honestly if u want a great monitor this is the one to buy, it is amazing









just want to let you know


----------



## Pudfark

On the temp2 thingy? I believe everybody here has reported accurately their temps and experiences observed.
I have much respect for Khaotic, Ultra and Oz.

I went from a 955 to an 8350 on this same board. I get high temps with the 8350 on temp2, 65C under Prime and
drop a core after about 5 minutes. Never had that issue with the 955.
I have an Antec spot fan on the vrms and no help there, no change.

It is truly mystifying to me, what temp2 is with the 8350. I can't say for sure why? I don't think it's a MB problem,
I think it relates to the Vishera series CPU's. My observations with the 8350 do correlate with Oz's.

Khaotic, if you could toss an 8350 on that board, I'd be all ears as to your experience and your observed results.

Apologies, if I have stirred the pot to much.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> How about you contact gigabyte support and ask them. I have already asked. And posted the results, It was taken down do to drama caused by another member that couldn't prove his opinion.
> 
> I'll say it one last time then just start squelching member's.
> 
> "My CPU whould be TOTALLY DESTROYED!" if it was the CPU package, Socket, or anything else to do with the CPU. So your saying I have a verry magical golden 955 that can hold 4.0Ghz @1.44Vcore with up to 80c temps and do this for the more than a year 24/7. All I can say is impossible with the stability and time its been up and running. Post proof, not speculation.
> 
> I swear this board is like a magnet....
> 
> Why would a mod for the GIGABYTE COMMUNITY FORUM lie?
> 
> I swear.. OCN is sliding down hill everyday.
> 
> Are you positive that your Temp monitor program is actually reading your Core Temps correct?
> 
> it must be very very cold for your chip to idle at a low 55f, it must very very cold in your room.


I thought it was very common knowledge that FX CPU's show ******ed low temps when they are at idle. It's been very well documented and is the way most people determine which reading is their CPU. I guess that means you don't know quite as much as you think huh?

Squelch away, if you are going to ban people for sharing their experience with this board then it's not a group worth being associated with. I'll be perfectly fine in my own









Edit
3 different programs, all showing the same exact temp as TMPIN2 as the CPU temps. I hardly doubt the CPU itself changes what the TMPIN2 value is. Maybe your board isn't reporting the correct temp either Khaotic.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> On the temp2 thingy? I believe everybody here has reported accurately their temps and experiences observed.
> I have much respect for Khaotic, Ultra and Oz.
> 
> I went from a 955 to an 8350 on this same board. I get high temps with the 8350 on temp2, 65C under Prime and
> drop a core after about 5 minutes. Never had that issue with the 955.
> I have an Antec spot fan on the vrms and no help there, no change.
> 
> It is truly mystifying to me, what temp2 is with the 8350. I can't say for sure why? I don't think it's a MB problem,
> I think it relates to the Vishera series CPU's. My observations with the 8350 do correlate with Oz's.
> 
> Khaotic, if you could toss an 8350 on that board, I'd be all ears as to your experience and your observed results.
> 
> Apologies, if I have stirred the pot to much.


This ^^

Temp changed when I went from my 1100t to the 8350...


----------



## Fordox

mine did also when i went from a athlon 2 640 to a fx8150.


----------



## InsideJob

Here you can see that tmpin1 is my CPU socket temp, has been on both boards I've owned.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I would agree with that. TMPIN1 on mine seem to be socket temp as well. If its not then my NB is very cool running. I'm very curious about the TMPIN2 discrepancy though, and I'm glad to see its not just me that experiences it.


----------



## MadGoat

I still think tempin 1 is socket and tempin0 is obviously sys temp...

But tempin 2 is a whack job... I'll stick with it being the NB ... but It is all over the place...


----------



## itomic

On my old UD-3 for sure it cant be NB temp, simply becouse NB heatsink was hot, not just warm but HOT on touch, and TMPIN2 was at about 45C !!! 45C isnt HOT, so im sure that temeprature does not corespond to NB temp. Im sure that none of those three temps are NB. NB gets very hot and that is common knowledge.


----------



## 1EvilMan

Has anyone tried getting some temperature readings off of the VRMs using an IR thermometer?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1EvilMan*
> 
> Has anyone tried getting some temperature readings off of the VRMs using an IR thermometer?


I haven't taken a reading like that but I've added a fan there is a drastic difference in heat sink temps. No monitoring program shows a difference however.


----------



## Pudfark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I haven't taken a reading like that but I've added a fan there is a drastic difference in heat sink temps. No monitoring program shows a difference however.


That has been my same experience using multiple temp monitoring programs, exactly.
I really wish Khaotic had a 8320,8350 to try on his board.
Trying to explain what's going on and actually seeing it, could be beneficial to all of us.

My silly gut feeling makes me think (that's dangerous)....it's to do with the Vishera CPU's.
I just don't know how to go about proving it. I'm certain, others here, much more experienced, than myself,
could/can figure it out. For the record, I really like my UD3 rev. 1.1 board and my 8350.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1EvilMan*
> 
> Has anyone tried getting some temperature readings off of the VRMs using an IR thermometer?


I know on my board that none of the TMPINX are VRM readings. My OC was throttling with all my TMPINX below 60c and so I tossed a spot fan on the VRM's. None of the TMPINX changed, but throttling went away.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1EvilMan*
> 
> Has anyone tried getting some temperature readings off of the VRMs using an IR thermometer?


I have an ir thermometer and the heat sinks are much cooler then the actual temps and very hard to get any useful readings.


----------



## ElkyJnr

Anyone able to help me over clock my beast and let me see its true power...


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> Anyone able to help me over clock my beast and let me see its true power...


Use rigbuilder to put enter all your system specs then add it to your signature. That way people with the same chip can offer advice and people can see what speeds your ram is etc.








http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG


----------



## Fordox

The best way to measure the temp with a IR meter, is on the back of the board.

so if somebody can do that?


----------



## 1EvilMan

I wish I could help but I don't have easy access to a board. I subscribed to this thread to help my kid out with his UD3.
He isn't big into overclocking and is running a 1075t. It's been a solid board for him and one I am considering for an upgrade.


----------



## ElkyJnr

I've done rig builder it's attached in my profile...


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> On the temp2 thingy? I believe everybody here has reported accurately their temps and experiences observed.
> I have much respect for Khaotic, Ultra and Oz.
> 
> I went from a 955 to an 8350 on this same board. I get high temps with the 8350 on temp2, 65C under Prime and
> drop a core after about 5 minutes. Never had that issue with the 955.
> I have an Antec spot fan on the vrms and no help there, no change.
> 
> It is truly mystifying to me, what temp2 is with the 8350. I can't say for sure why? I don't think it's a MB problem,
> I think it relates to the Vishera series CPU's. My observations with the 8350 do correlate with Oz's.
> 
> Khaotic, if you could toss an 8350 on that board, I'd be all ears as to your experience and your observed results.
> 
> Apologies, if I have stirred the pot to much.


From what I can tell the CPU is the cause of the TMPIN02 issue's, If I had reason to waste money on a BD chip I would love to test it, but my 955 does its job perfectly so I won't be buying one any time soon, I may however find some one locally that might let me borrow their's for a day or two. I'll look into to it, as I am curious.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I thought it was very common knowledge that FX CPU's show ******ed low temps when they are at idle. It's been very well documented and is the way most people determine which reading is their CPU. I guess that means you don't know quite as much as you think huh?
> 
> Squelch away, if you are going to ban people for sharing their experience with this board then it's not a group worth being associated with. I'll be perfectly fine in my own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit
> 3 different programs, all showing the same exact temp as TMPIN2 as the CPU temps. I hardly doubt the CPU itself changes what the TMPIN2 value is. Maybe your board isn't reporting the correct temp either Khaotic.


Please, Tell me what I claim to know about the FX chip's? Don't put word's in my mouth to make me look bad just because you cannot explain issue's with your motherboard with anything solid. I have NEVER claimed to know much about the FX Chips.. You must have me confused with some one else, I do however know a great deal about these motherboards, Hence my posting in this club.

I'm not squelching for opinion's, its more like trolling at this point. Gigabyte has ruled on the NB temp's, and what TMPIN02 relate too yet people still argue they they are wrong. Fine, Prove it! You have all failed to do so. Hence why this info regarding the TMPIN's output is one the front page of the club. If someone could post some proof, I'll gladly bow in light of this new discovery. So yea, anyone who want's to troll the matter anymore will be squelched.. Last thing this site need's is more tolling as it is.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> This ^^
> 
> Temp changed when I went from my 1100t to the 8350...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> mine did also when i went from a athlon 2 640 to a fx8150.


I think's we might be on to something. I know the Mobo's are picky about what temp program's read proper. I have used 3 UD3's so far and each needed to use a different program to monitor temps, all the other program's would read wonky or absurd temps.. Shame that all 3 builds were phenom II's and not FX's.. If FX's didn't suck so bad I would buy one just to fiddle with and learn about but its simply not worth it at all at this point.. I won't build one for someone, I recommend going Intel at those price points. I'll see about borrowing a FX chip.


----------



## itomic

Well, whats there to prove ? Its common sense that if TMPIN2 shows 45C, and im touching NB heatsink and geting almost burned after second or two !! I know for sure that at 45C sensation isnt HOT as hell !! So what and why rest of us need to prove u ?


----------



## Fordox

thats my proof.
allmost every supported software, like gigabytes touchbios and easytune, as well as AMD's overdrive gives exactly the same values for their cpu temp as ohwmonitor does on his tmpin3.

i find it hard to believe that all those programs have it right and because 1 person (as MOD on a gigabyte forum, which doesn't make him an 'expert') says its diffrent everyone believes it.

But: i am starting to think that with the bulldozer/vishersa architectures, the temp sensors might have changed? Because all this stuff pointed before with my Athlon to the tmpin2.

So i believe it is because there are diffrent cpu's. I hope you see why I am confused, just as everyone else.
just settle this for once and for all...


----------



## InsideJob

I am also now thinking the CPU might be the factor of temp readings/program. Values and labels stayed the same after a mobo swap with my phenom but FX's seem to read differently on the same board.


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> I've done rig builder it's attached in my profile...


Wicked. Looks like your Phenom II X6 1075T has a locked multiplier which means you'll have to overclock the hardway










If you go to edit your signature you can add your system into your signature like mine below so people know exactly what your running without checking your profile!









The basic idea is usually to drop the multiplier a few points eg x15 to x12 then increase the FSB to see how far it can go still bootign into windows. eg raising from 200 to 210 and keep going til it wont boot. Then you try increasing the multiplier back up and balance the FSB with the multiplier to get an overclock you want. You will want to add some extra voltage to the CPU to make it stable at higher overclocks.
Then there's the issues of lower ram and NB speeds but I'm not so hot on that









This guide is for a 1055T but your chip is quite similar so you could find it useful
http://www.overclock.net/t/720502/the-1055t-owners-club/0_100

Linus is on hand to give you a pretty decent tutorial!









enjoy and good luck


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Well, whats there to prove ? Its common sense that if TMPIN2 shows 45C, and im touching NB heatsink and geting almost burned after second or two !! I know for sure that at 45C sensation isnt HOT as hell !! So what and why rest of us need to prove u ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> 
> 
> thats my proof.
> allmost every supported software, like gigabytes touchbios and easytune, as well as AMD's overdrive gives exactly the same values for their cpu temp as ohwmonitor does on his tmpin3.
> 
> i find it hard to believe that all those programs have it right and because 1 person (as MOD on a gigabyte forum, which doesn't make him an 'expert') says its diffrent everyone believes it.
> 
> But: i am starting to think that with the bulldozer/vishersa architectures, the temp sensors might have changed? Because all this stuff pointed before with my Athlon to the tmpin2.
> 
> So i believe it is because there are diffrent cpu's. I hope you see why I am confused, just as everyone else.
> just settle this for once and for all...


That's not proof that its reading the CPU Core, Package, or socket temp. That's proof that there is yet another issue with these boards and FX CPU's. Swapping CPU's CAN NOT change where the sensor is located, It simply cannot. It can hinder an accurate temp reading from sensor's.

And its not just one person, Everyone someone in this club that has some sense of logic contact's Gigabyte about these issue's and post it here, you guys shoot it to **** with no actual proof.

Basicly what your suggesting is that magically changing from a phenom II to a FX CPU changes the physical location of sensor? As I said before all you guys have provided is proof that there is another issue. How do you even know your temps are correct on your CPU? I had to borrow a high end IR thermometer to figure out what program would read the proper temps on mine, and it aint as simple as point it at the heat sink either.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I am also now thinking the CPU might be the factor of temp readings/program. Values and labels stayed the same after a mobo swap with my phenom but FX's seem to read differently on the same board.


I'm thinking FX is a fail CPU. All the problems in this club are related to PEBCAK or FX CPU's.. Go figure.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> From what I can tell the CPU is the cause of the TMPIN02 issue's, If I had reason to waste money on a BD chip I would love to test it, but my 955 does its job perfectly so I won't be buying one any time soon, I may however find some one locally that might let me borrow their's for a day or two. I'll look into to it, as I am curious.
> Please, Tell me what I claim to know about the FX chip's? Don't put word's in my mouth to make me look bad just because you cannot explain issue's with your motherboard with anything solid. I have NEVER claimed to know much about the FX Chips.. You must have me confused with some one else, I do however know a great deal about these motherboards, Hence my posting in this club.
> 
> I'm not squelching for opinion's, its more like trolling at this point. Gigabyte has ruled on the NB temp's, and what TMPIN02 relate too yet people still argue they they are wrong. Fine, Prove it! You have all failed to do so. Hence why this info regarding the TMPIN's output is one the front page of the club. If someone could post some proof, I'll gladly bow in light of this new discovery. So yea, anyone who want's to troll the matter anymore will be squelched.. Last thing this site need's is more tolling as it is.
> 
> I think's we might be on to something. I know the Mobo's are picky about what temp program's read proper. I have used 3 UD3's so far and each needed to use a different program to monitor temps, all the other program's would read wonky or absurd temps.. Shame that all 3 builds were phenom II's and not FX's.. If FX's didn't suck so bad I would buy one just to fiddle with and learn about but its simply not worth it at all at this point.. I won't build one for someone, I recommend going Intel at those price points. I'll see about borrowing a FX chip.


Bulldozer/Vishera chips may be part of the cause for this discrepency. Just because you don't observe it does not make it irrelevant. This discussion is about these boards. These boards are in fact exhibiting these readings. We are discussing it to figure out why this is happening.

As for your knowledge on FX chips you put the words in your own mouth guy. I quote you here "Are you positive that your Temp monitor program is actually reading your Core Temps correct? it must be very very cold for your chip to idle at a low 55f, it must very very cold in your room." You say this after I already stated in another post it is HOT in my room as I haven't bothered to turn the AC on yet. Here in Florida its hot. A quick Google search would show you that FX chips exhibit extremely inaccurate/low idle temps.

No one is trolling here other than you actually. We are discussing an issue/feature with this board. You are the one threatening to "squelch" people for discussing something you don't believe is an issue. You are starting to come off as the type of person that refuses to believe something just because it hasn't happened to them. Guess what? I posted proof as have others here. You are the one that is not adding any value to the conversation. Squelch yourself maybe? Let me break it down for you. My 990FXA-UD3 is displaying CPU temps as TMPIN2, FACT, TMPIN1 "seems" to be socket temp, FACT. I as well as others effectively have no NB temp reading because of this, FACT. Just because YOU are not experiencing it does not make it any less true. I don't care if you TMPIN2 is saying its 90C, maybe yours isn't reading any more correctly than ours?

I don't care if you are a Mod. This discussion is relevant whether you want to deny the facts or not. Perhaps we need an Admin to come in and have a look at the discussion and see who needs to be squelched? I'm pretty sure Mods aren't exempt from that for trying to iron fist everything because they don't like their "final" yet wrong answer questioned.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Well, whats there to prove ? Its common sense that if TMPIN2 shows 45C, and im touching NB heatsink and geting almost burned after second or two !! I know for sure that at 45C sensation isnt HOT as hell !! So what and why rest of us need to prove u ?


We don't have anything to prove to him. We are all experiencing this issue. He has no useful information to contribute to the discussion other than threatening to ban people. We have documented proof of said issue and multiple users experiencing it. Now we need to figure out what the cause is. Is this caused by the CPU? If it is why? The motherboard sensors should not be dictated by what CPU is being used. I find this very interesting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> 
> 
> thats my proof.
> allmost every supported software, like gigabytes touchbios and easytune, as well as AMD's overdrive gives exactly the same values for their cpu temp as ohwmonitor does on his tmpin3.
> 
> i find it hard to believe that all those programs have it right and because 1 person (as MOD on a gigabyte forum, which doesn't make him an 'expert') says its diffrent everyone believes it.
> 
> But: i am starting to think that with the bulldozer/vishersa architectures, the temp sensors might have changed? Because all this stuff pointed before with my Athlon to the tmpin2.
> 
> So i believe it is because there are diffrent cpu's. I hope you see why I am confused, just as everyone else.
> just settle this for once and for all...


It obviously has something to do with the CPU. Its odd, as I've said earlier the CPU should have no effect on motherboard monitors. My guess would be a register in the CPU is using the same addressing as the motherboard for TMPIN2 and the CPU is winning the addressing by default. To me that would be a motherboard issue that would have to be addressed with a BIOS update. I would really like to know what my NB temps are!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I am also now thinking the CPU might be the factor of temp readings/program. Values and labels stayed the same after a mobo swap with my phenom but FX's seem to read differently on the same board.


See above lol It has to be BIOS issue. Its strange to say the least.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> That's not proof that its reading the CPU Core, Package, or socket temp. That's proof that there is yet another issue with these boards and FX CPU's. Swapping CPU's CAN NOT change where the sensor is located, It simply cannot. It can hinder an accurate temp reading from sensor's.
> 
> And its not just one person, Everyone someone in this club that has some sense of logic contact's Gigabyte about these issue's and post it here, you guys shoot it to **** with no actual proof.
> 
> Basicly what your suggesting is that magically changing from a phenom II to a FX CPU changes the physical location of sensor? As I said before all you guys have provided is proof that there is another issue. How do you even know your temps are correct on your CPU? I had to borrow a high end IR thermometer to figure out what program would read the proper temps on mine, and it aint as simple as point it at the heat sink either.
> I'm thinking FX is a fail CPU. All the problems in this club are related to PEBCAK or FX CPU's.. Go figure.


What is with your animosity towards FX chips? Mine has worked flawlessly and is performing better than my X6 did. I assure you smart guy, that there is no PEBCAK here, I didn't fall off the turnip truck last night lets just say that. Jumping to that kind of conclusion and to insult members like that speaks volumes about your personality and ability to be a mod...

The only way the CPU could change the readouts is if the CPU is trying to use the same addressing as the motherboard sensor. That is not a CPU issue. That is a motherboard issue. More specifically a BIOS issue.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Bulldozer/Vishera chips may be part of the cause for this discrepency. Just because you don't observe it does not make it irrelevant. This discussion is about these boards. These boards are in fact exhibiting these readings. We are discussing it to figure out why this is happening.
> 
> As for your knowledge on FX chips you put the words in your own mouth guy. I quote you here "Are you positive that your Temp monitor program is actually reading your Core Temps correct? it must be very very cold for your chip to idle at a low 55f, it must very very cold in your room." You say this after I already stated in another post it is HOT in my room as I haven't bothered to turn the AC on yet. Here in Florida its hot. A quick Google search would show you that FX chips exhibit extremely inaccurate/low idle temps.
> 
> No one is trolling here other than you actually. We are discussing an issue/feature with this board. You are the one threatening to "squelch" people for discussing something you don't believe is an issue. You are starting to come off as the type of person that refuses to believe something just because it hasn't happened to them. Guess what? I posted proof as have others here. You are the one that is not adding any value to the conversation. Squelch yourself maybe? Let me break it down for you. My 990FXA-UD3 is displaying CPU temps as TMPIN2, FACT, TMPIN1 "seems" to be socket temp, FACT. I as well as others effectively have no NB temp reading because of this, FACT. Just because YOU are not experiencing it does not make it any less true. I don't care if you TMPIN2 is saying its 90C, maybe yours isn't reading any more correctly than ours?
> 
> I don't care if you are a Mod. This discussion is relevant whether you want to deny the facts or not. Perhaps we need an Admin to come in and have a look at the discussion and see who needs to be squelched? I'm pretty sure Mods aren't exempt from that for trying to iron fist everything because they don't like their "final" yet wrong answer questioned.
> We don't have anything to prove to him. We are all experiencing this issue. He has no useful information to contribute to the discussion other than threatening to ban people. We have documented proof of said issue and multiple users experiencing it. *Now we need to figure out what the cause is. Is this caused by the CPU? If it is why? The motherboard sensors should not be dictated by what CPU is being used. I find this very interesting.
> It obviously has something to do with the CPU. Its odd, as I've said earlier the CPU should have no effect on motherboard monitors. My guess would be a register in the CPU is using the same addressing as the motherboard for TMPIN2 and the CPU is winning the addressing by default. To me that would be a motherboard issue that would have to be addressed with a BIOS update. I would really like to know what my NB temps are!*
> See above lol It has to be BIOS issue. Its strange to say the least.


Here is what I'm getting at..

First off my comment about the temps was a back handed way of pointing out that the temp program's are skewed to begin with, but that didn't hit home. Instead your using it to pick at my knowledge of a CPU but you can keep thinking that I'm spouting off stuff I don't know









I never said I would ban anyone. And even if I did threaten to ban it would be a futile move. First, I'm not a modderator for this site and second even though I think post's like
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> "TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp" This isnt true !!!


Are totally and utterly useless they are ban worthy. They are worthy of a mute/squelch.

Yes, We all know there are temp reading problem's how about we go about it maturely, rather than just posting this kind of crap.
For the part in bold is a more valid addition to the subject.

Sorry but I've had it with all the newb's on OCN doing absolutely nothing but dragging down the community. For year's this site was a beacon of information. Now it's overrun with troll's and dribble, If that helps explain my agitation with this club any...


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I agree itomic's post isn't very useful however it kind of is relevant, for us guys using FX CPU's TMPIN2 is displaying CPU temp. Maybe the front page needs to be updated to reflect that for now until Gigabyte fixes the issue, that way when new users see TMPIN2 matching their CPU they aren't surprised and wondering what is wrong.

When I joined I read through that whole section and came across that and *** that can't be my NB temp it matches the CPU in all conditions. I have fans hanging all over the place now trying to see if I can make any of the temps lower. Its asinine. I totally get your frustration now that you explained it and I apologize for being dick. However you have to realize some of us are frustrated with the quirks of this board and treating us like we are ******ed isn't helping.

I do have my doubts that Gigabyte will fix it, they can't seem to fix the throttling issue. They say its APM related, however I can turn off APM with the AMD Overdrive trick and still get the throttling. Since I've added the fans I can postpone the throttling, but not eliminate it. I think its VRM related, I'm starting to think they can't handle the 8 core FX chips on a big overclock. Gigabyte won't admit to that because that would hurt sales (not saying its true, just my thoughts)


----------



## ElkyJnr

ok rigs in my sig anyone able to help me ive tried a few diff things but everytime i boot i get a msg saying some boot failure to overclocking..


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> ok rigs in my sig anyone able to help me ive tried a few diff things but everytime i boot i get a msg saying some boot failure to overclocking..


Means something you overclocked, isn't going to work.

Reset your bios to original settings.

If you are trying to overclock a bunch of stuff at once- don't. Just do one thing at a time so you know what exactly is at fault for the failure.


----------



## ElkyJnr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> Means something you overclocked, isn't going to work.
> 
> Reset your bios to original settings.
> 
> If you are trying to overclock a bunch of stuff at once- don't. Just do one thing at a time so you know what exactly is at fault for the failure.


any ideas where n how to start to OC this?


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> any ideas where n how to start to OC this?


No one is going to do it for you.

But a good place to start would be doing some research here
http://www.overclock.net/t/720502/the-1055t-owners-club

I spent a few days learning what everything is and how it affects the other components and then i started to experiment while still reading guides ect.
Now i have my 1100T at 3.9GHz stable and plan to go further with better cooling.

Its worth doing the research if you like to tinker with stuff.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> any ideas where n how to start to OC this?


As you probably know by now, you have a locked multiplier with that chip. So the only way to OC it is to bump the FSB... You can adjust this by switching Host Clock Control to manual (default is 200). But overclocking with the FSB is much trickier as while it speeds up your CPU it also has an affect on the CPU Northbridge, the HT Link, and the Memory clock. Meaning you have to contend with all 4 of those when trying to reach a stable overclock.

With that being said... read this guide. You will be using the section of the guide titled "Reference clock overclocking"

http://www.overclock.net/t/525113/phenom-ii-overclocking-guide
(if it doesn't take you to post 1, go to it)

Read it, Study it, Love it.

If you have any questions regarding what said things are in the guide in respect to your specific motherboard (Ex. FSB=Reference Clock=Host Clock etc.) PM me and I will be glad to tell you.

***Oh, and***

- If you don't already have HW-Monitor (or equivalent), Prime 95 (or equivalent), and CPU-Z... You need to download them.

- Don't confuse North Bridge with CPU-NB.

- A good *baseline or starting point* for your CPU voltage and the CPU-NB voltage are 1.35v and 1.15v respectively. These are pretty much the only 2 things you need to manually set voltages for, the only other one is the DRAM voltage... but atm you shouldn't worry about this and I think it tells you in the guide (or atleast it should) to lower the divider of your Memory Clock so it is running below it's rated speed. This is to ensure that the memory is not at fault for the stability of your overclock. Once you have found your overclock, you can worry about your ram speed.

- Remember to keep your processor temp below 62c.

Good Luck


----------



## itomic

I have interested pics for our discussion about temps and Gigabyte boards. I havent changed CPU but i have move from UD-3 to Asus M5A97 EVO R2.0 and now to Gigabyte GA-990FXA UD-5 Rev 3.0. Very interested pictures i have hier







One is with UD-3 and another with UD-5. U should pay attention to three temps reading and Package temperature. So, i guess Gigabyte has changed something, at least on UD-5 REV 3.0 !! As for the throttling, i have enabled HPC in BIOS after i set voltage and clocks i wanted. Then F10 and reboot. 20 runs IBT on high at settings u can see down below and no throttling at all !

http://www.pohrani.com/?42/DW/Ji73EON/1/vishera-at-48ghz-cineben.png UD-3

http://www.pohrani.com/?A/W5/3bSuZVUa/amd-fx-8320-ibt-high-45g.png UD-5


----------



## ElkyJnr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ultracarpet*
> 
> As you probably know by now, you have a locked multiplier with that chip. So the only way to OC it is to bump the FSB... You can adjust this by switching Host Clock Control to manual (default is 200). But overclocking with the FSB is much trickier as while it speeds up your CPU it also has an affect on the CPU Northbridge, the HT Link, and the Memory clock. Meaning you have to contend with all 4 of those when trying to reach a stable overclock.
> 
> With that being said... read this guide. You will be using the section of the guide titled "Reference clock overclocking"
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/525113/phenom-ii-overclocking-guide
> (if it doesn't take you to post 1, go to it)
> 
> Read it, Study it, Love it.
> 
> If you have any questions regarding what said things are in the guide in respect to your specific motherboard (Ex. FSB=Reference Clock=Host Clock etc.) PM me and I will be glad to tell you.
> 
> ***Oh, and***
> 
> - If you don't already have HW-Monitor (or equivalent), Prime 95 (or equivalent), and CPU-Z... You need to download them.
> 
> - Don't confuse North Bridge with CPU-NB.
> 
> - A good *baseline or starting point* for your CPU voltage and the CPU-NB voltage are 1.35v and 1.15v respectively. These are pretty much the only 2 things you need to manually set voltages for, the only other one is the DRAM voltage... but atm you shouldn't worry about this and I think it tells you in the guide (or atleast it should) to lower the divider of your Memory Clock so it is running below it's rated speed. This is to ensure that the memory is not at fault for the stability of your overclock. Once you have found your overclock, you can worry about your ram speed.
> 
> - Remember to keep your processor temp below 62c.
> 
> Good Luck


cheers ill have another good look over it..
do u recommend cpu-z and 1 other?


----------



## levontraut

hi guys.

does anyone know if the latest drivers for the ud5 is supported with the first revision of the board??

i seem to be having troubble with the board.. also does anyone have a copy of the bios that i can flash the board with on a us thogh the flash screen on the boot menu? the one though windows is a problem as i think my boards bios is messed up.

cheers
levon


----------



## Pudfark

@ khaotic

Seems tempers flare, with a flair, here.









Thanks for your willing to try a Vishera on the board, it's much appreciated.
The temp related problems, all of us Vishera owners have are real.
I honestly believe, that when you place one on your board, you'll see what we are experiencing.

Thanks for hanging in there with us. Looking forward to reviewing your results.


----------



## Ultracarpet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> cheers ill have another good look over it..
> do u recommend cpu-z and 1 other?


Get, HW-Monitor, Prime 95, Cpu-z.

HW-Monitor and Prime have substitutes but Cpu-z is sort of in a league of it's own.


----------



## Fordox

@khaotic,
Can you post a screenshot just like mine? I'd like to know if the cpu temp given by the 'supported' software is pointing to tmpin 2 or 3


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Basicly it all boils' down to people coming in here with no actual clue as to what they are doing *****ing pissing and moaning about how ****ty the board is. Fine, but they are doing nothing at all but *****ing. ZERO problem solving take's place. only *****ing and useless post's.

My board was one of the first one's on OCN to show a ****ed up temp reading. Two TMPIN's would read up to 250c at idle on my UD3-955. when confronted with the problem I solved it in a proper manner and posted the info here.

No, you don't have to prove your problem's to me but we owe it to this website and club to only post useful data pertaining to this board. Not simply 'ITZ BORKENZ!! [email protected]@#[email protected]$QETGLHADSOjc63"

The only way we will be able to prove what the sensor's are picking up is to machine out a small space in the heatsink for placing or a probe.

Lastly, Feeling the heatsink to get an idea of the temp of a chip under it is so bass ackward's it's not even funny. That would defeat the whole idea of the heat sink. Point and case: My i5 2500k peak's at almost 70c core temps on full load. My cooler hardly hit's 45-50c(VIA IR thermometer). That's a 20c difference between the CORE TEMP and the HEAT SINK. There is closer to a 30c temp difference between what the heatsink read's and what the CPU socket read's.
So using your finger's to diagnose the problem is hardly enough to prove anything to anyone in a technical manner.

Yea, I'll post a TMPIN of my UD3 but its in a state of being rebuilt and water cooled so the clock speeds and temps will not be reflective of their full time OC, its at stock for the time being.
But I'm not going to waste time with a bunch of temp programs that won't read proper on my board. OpenHardwareMonitor is the only one that won't fudge the reading's.

I'll edit this post in a few min with the screen shot.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Basicly it all boils' down to people coming in here with no actual clue as to what they are doing *****ing pissing and moaning about how ****ty the board is. Fine, but they are doing nothing at all but *****ing. ZERO problem solving take's place. only *****ing and useless post's.
> 
> My board was one of the first one's on OCN to show a ****ed up temp reading. Two TMPIN's would read up to 250c at idle on my UD3-955. when confronted with the problem I solved it in a proper manner and posted the info here.
> 
> No, you don't have to prove your problem's to me but we owe it to this website and club to only post useful data pertaining to this board. Not simply 'ITZ BORKENZ!! [email protected]@#[email protected]$QETGLHADSOjc63"
> 
> The only way we will be able to prove what the sensor's are picking up is to machine out a small space in the heatsink for placing or a probe.
> 
> Lastly, Feeling the heatsink to get an idea of the temp of a chip under it is so bass ackward's it's not even funny. That would defeat the whole idea of the heat sink. Point and case: My i5 2500k peak's at almost 70c core temps on full load. My cooler hardly hit's 45-50c(VIA IR thermometer). That's a 20c difference between the CORE TEMP and the HEAT SINK. There is closer to a 30c temp difference between what the heatsink read's and what the CPU socket read's.
> So using your finger's to diagnose the problem is hardly enough to prove anything to anyone in a technical manner.


Honestly there isn't a reason to get worked up about this, and quite frankly, khaotic has looked into this extensively.

The one thing I'm beginning to see here with the stress testing I'm doing is the NB receiving more heat. Not generating heat, receiving. When tempin2 hits it's high, tempin 3 will begin to climb. Mind you I don't have active cooling on my NB heatsink because I replaced the stock stuff with my own TIM and noticed a good enough temp to not worry about it.

Anyway, the Tempin3 will eventually soar past tempin2 and max around 70c, which is about right for the NB. But up until it passes the socket temp it stays there for quite a while and I think this is simply do to socket heat transference. (I mean after all Its sitting right next to it).

Lets not come into this thread to bash one another... this is OCN, state what you've found... and lets figure it out. We can always rehash the hash


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Honestly there isn't a reason to get worked up about this, and quite frankly, khaotic has looked into this extensively.
> 
> The one thing I'm beginning to see here with the stress testing I'm doing is the NB receiving more heat. Not generating heat, receiving. When tempin2 hits it's high, tempin 3 will begin to climb. Mind you I don't have active cooling on my NB heatsink because I replaced the stock stuff with my own TIM and noticed a good enough temp to not worry about it.
> 
> Anyway, the Tempin3 will eventually soar past tempin2 and max around 70c, which is about right for the NB. But up until it passes the socket temp it stays there for quite a while and I think this is simply do to socket heat transference. (I mean after all Its sitting right next to it).
> 
> Lets not come into this thread to bash one another... this is OCN, state what you've found... and lets figure it out. We can always rehash the hash


From what you discribed it would seem that the sensor is actually picking up the NB temp. I'm thinking that maybe when the FX chips go into Idle state they require less form the NB, allowing it to effectively "Idle".

It would only make sense that as the CPU work load increase's that the NB work load would increase, thus raising temps. The temps seem to raise in conjunction of each other UNTIL the CPU hits its thermal limit and the NB keeps climbing.

So from your account, the sensor is reading the NB perfecly fine, but the use of a FX CPU botch's the idle reading's.



Here us an image of my UD3 I had my wife send me(sorry not at home today). The PC is at idle and at stock clock's and voltage's at this time. Later when I get home I can run some stress testing to show peak temps. If you want to see the overclocked temps your going to have to wait until after the Water Loop is installed. At idle and light use there is a constant 7-8C difference between my CPU core temps and the NB temps.

Lastly because this is a temp issue its hard for many people to come together and figure this one out. None of us have the same two machines, overlcock's, Case's or airflow pastern's.

We need 2 or 3 member's willing to use their rig's as test rig's to figure it out, otherwise there is zero consistency in this.


----------



## itomic

Discussing with u Kaotic is just pointless and i wont waste my time any more.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Discussing with u Kaotic is just pointless and i wont waste my time any more.


Another fine example of why I get frustrated. Use the squelch if you don't like the information I provide on this site.

Here is another snip from the wife. She was playing lord of the ring's online for a little bit. Its not full load but it is under a decent load for an extended period of time. She said its about 65f(or 18-19c) in the computer room.


----------



## InsideJob

I'm no forum moderator but please for the sake of OCN, can we keep the posts to constructive/relative information. It'd be much appreciated









We need a cleanup isle (page) 96


----------



## Fordox

I am standing behind your test methods and results Khaotic. I can see your frustrations (to me and other users), and i really appriciate it that you are willing to help.
and itomic... Khaotic still being reasonable, why aren't you?

Khaotic, the reason why i want to see it in those programs (which i also find worthless) is maybe because the sensor names might have changed somehow. it did with my board (IF I can recall correctly).

And as far as i can see with your screens, your tmpin3 doesn't fly all over the place as mine or others with a FX chip. Maybe Madgoat is right about that one (the heat radiation), because the tdp of a FX chip is insanly high and as you overclock or stress it, it will just become more.

I am willing to use my system as a testrig. I am also watercooled (cpu only with a 280mm rad, 60mm thick), got 2 top outtake fans (140mm bitfenix spectre), and no intake (which can be mounted). i can change my fans to 120mm ones. my case is a corsair 400r.

I am willing to help to get this solved for once and for all. on a friendly way









Or maybe we just need to overclock till its going to throttle but i am not willing to do that. if it is needed, I will.

Maybe i'm not the most active user on OCN, but i am a seasoned hardware enthousiast in The Netherlands (Tweakers.net)


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Discussing with u Kaotic is just pointless and i wont waste my time any more.
> 
> 
> 
> Another fine example of why I get frustrated. Use the squelch if you don't like the information I provide on this site.
> 
> Here is another snip from the wife. She was playing lord of the ring's online for a little bit. Its not full load but it is under a decent load for an extended period of time. She said its about 65f(or 18-19c) in the computer room.
Click to expand...

I may have have missed something in the umm...debate, but I would like to know what TPNIN2 is as well so I will throw mine in the mix.


My TMPIN2 is linked 12c higher to the Core temp and moves with it at the same rate. It matches exactly in AMD OD what is referred to as the 'CPU temp' rather than the core temp reading that every other temp monitor utility reads it also matches the 'CPU package ' temp in OHM readout.As I understand this then, This is the difference between the sensor on the core and the sensor on the inside of the IHS. I have however read conflicting info on sensor location as well.
I am curious if this varies by MB manufacturer. Anyone else here see the same temperature characteristics?


----------



## itomic

[quote name="Fordox" url="/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/4780#post_19570687"*]I am standing behind your test methods and results Khaotic. I can see your frustrations (to me and other users), and i really appriciate it that you are willing to help.*
and itomic... Khaotic still being reasonable, why aren't you?

Method, what method r u talking about ?? I experienced same thing as many others but only Kaotic has different information and u belive his "method" is right based on what ?? And he has Phenom and rest of us have FX chips. Thats not the same !! I now have new UD-5 REV 3.0 and temps readings r different then they was on my UD-3. So Gigabyte has changed something.


----------



## itomic

. Anyone else here see the same temperature characteristics?[/quote]

I had same delta temps as u have on UD-3, but with UD-5 as i said its different. I know bunch of people that have the same delta temperature u have on this picture and thats what we all pointing out and only Kaotic knows "better" !


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well my TMPIN2 always matches my CPU temp. I'm unable to push my CPU to its thermal limits because of this throttling issue. So I can't verify that TMPIN2 suddenly shoots past CPU temps. Mine starts throttling well before that and when it throttles all the temps drop. This is the single most troublesome board I've ever had the displeasure of owning.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well my TMPIN2 always matches my CPU temp. I'm unable to push my CPU to its thermal limits because of this throttling issue. So I can't verify that TMPIN2 suddenly shoots past CPU temps. Mine starts throttling well before that and when it throttles all the temps drop.This is the single most troublesome board I've ever had the displeasure of owning.

Also things keep being said about nobody doing anything to find out what the problem is... I disagree. I've done more than I should have too. Adding fans to the system, pulling heatsinks and putting good thermal compound on. Various clocks and voltages multiple temp monitors... and yes touching a heatsink can most certainly help you determine temps and if a heatsink is properly seated. Some people just feel they know all and everyone else is stupid.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> [quote name="Fordox" url="/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/4780#post_19570687"*]I am standing behind your test methods and results Khaotic. I can see your frustrations (to me and other users), and i really appriciate it that you are willing to help.*
> and itomic... Khaotic still being reasonable, why aren't you?
> 
> Method, what method r u talking about ?? I experienced same thing as many others but only Kaotic has different information and u belive his "method" is right based on what ?? And he has Phenom and rest of us have FX chips. Thats not the same !! I now have new UD-5 REV 3.0 and temps readings r different then they was on my UD-3. So Gigabyte has changed something.


he will see if he can borrow an fx chip to see the diffrences himself.

and about the screenshot, it is a FX chip. as to be expected. i would like to see it with a am3 cpu.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> he will see if he can borrow an fx chip to see the diffrences himself.
> 
> and about the screenshot, it is a FX chip. as to be expected. i would like to see it with a am3 cpu.


I've asked a few people via e-mail if I can borrow their CPU's for some testing. I'll find all the software I can to monitor temps and show the variance's but some of the won't be usable. If I let the board idle with a few of them the temps read 250c or higher lol.

@itomic my method is to try and actually prove something is wrong and find a fix for, not just squawk about how wrong it is. I don't discredit your problem, only your methods of solving said problem. There are other user's in this thread having the same problem you are having and are trying disparately to find a solid answer rather than just *****. and here I am wasting my time on yet another useless post


----------



## ebduncan

Hmmms.

people still debating what tmpin2 is?

frankly i don't even care what it is. Things i know about my UD3 rev 1.0 MY vrms and northbridge got blistering hot I added a 80mm fan to blow air on them. Now they run cooler. I replaced the Thermal pads on both the vrms and the north bridge and secured them with nuts/bolts/nylon washers. To increase seating pressure.

My CPU is liquid Cooled. 280 Alphacool UT60 radiator, and 240 XSPC RX radiator. Raystorm cpu block, EK 7950 gpu block. 750 pump/res. 120 Corsair SP120's on the RX, and 4x Phobya 140mm/25mm fans on the alpha Push/pull.

According to CPUID Hardware monitor Over the course of one week. (last time i rebooted)

Tmpin0- Current 39/ Lowest 37/ Highest 40
Tmpin1- Current 36/ Lowest 33/ Highest 43
Tmpin2- Current 26/ Lowest 25/ Highest 54

Core Temps
Current 24c/ Lowest 13c/ Highest 44

System AMD [email protected] 4.945ghz 1.45 Vcore, CPUIMC +.050, Cpu Pill 2.6 volts Northbridge 2365mhz stock voltage, HyperTransport 2795mhz
Mem DDR3 2005mhz 9-9-9-27 1.65volts

Other notes, when i had a side panel fan on with my Arc Midi Case, i noticed the system temps were a good bit lower. The Temp probe for the system temp is somewhere around the pci-express slot number 1. I have removed the fan since, putting the GPU under water, system temps increased 6-7c.

I did notice that Tmpin2 got lower when i added a fan to the northbridge/ Vrm area. Its a decent fan 80mmx25mm Sunon

Don't worry so much about the temps, just make sure the most critical components never get hot. I did this with a fan, and new thermal pads/ nuts/bolts. Cpu is cooled very well with custom water loop. Seems to work just fine for me. I don't want to start any debates on what TMPIN2 is, but i will tell you it is definitely not CPU temp. If I had to guess it would be the VRM temp. The more voltage to put to the cpu, the higher TMPIN2 temps i see. I know its not cpu temp cause if tmpin2 was cpu temp, would not make any sense, as it reads higher than my core temps, by a good margin, and I know my cpu doesn't get close to 54c. Take it for what it is worth don't get all stressed over the temps (unless your overheating)


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Hmmms.
> 
> people still debating what tmpin2 is?
> 
> frankly i don't even care what it is. Things i know about my UD3 rev 1.0 MY vrms and northbridge got blistering hot I added a 80mm fan to blow air on them. Now they run cooler. I replaced the Thermal pads on both the vrms and the north bridge and secured them with nuts/bolts/nylon washers. To increase seating pressure.
> 
> My CPU is liquid Cooled. 280 Alphacool UT60 radiator, and 240 XSPC RX radiator. Raystorm cpu block, EK 7950 gpu block. 750 pump/res. 120 Corsair SP120's on the RX, and 4x Phobya 140mm/25mm fans on the alpha Push/pull.
> 
> According to CPUID Hardware monitor Over the course of one week. (last time i rebooted)
> 
> Tmpin0- Current 39/ Lowest 37/ Highest 40
> Tmpin1- Current 36/ Lowest 33/ Highest 43
> Tmpin2- Current 26/ Lowest 25/ Highest 54
> 
> Core Temps
> Current 24c/ Lowest 13c/ Highest 44
> 
> System AMD [email protected] 4.945ghz 1.45 Vcore, CPUIMC +.050, Cpu Pill 2.6 volts Northbridge 2365mhz stock voltage, HyperTransport 2795mhz
> Mem DDR3 2005mhz 9-9-9-27 1.65volts
> 
> Other notes, when i had a side panel fan on with my Arc Midi Case, i noticed the system temps were a good bit lower. The Temp probe for the system temp is somewhere around the pci-express slot number 1. I have removed the fan since, putting the GPU under water, system temps increased 6-7c.
> 
> I did notice that Tmpin2 got lower when i added a fan to the northbridge/ Vrm area. Its a decent fan 80mmx25mm Sunon
> 
> Don't worry so much about the temps, just make sure the most critical components never get hot. I did this with a fan, and new thermal pads/ nuts/bolts. Cpu is cooled very well with custom water loop. Seems to work just fine for me. I don't want to start any debates on what TMPIN2 is, but i will tell you it is definitely not CPU temp. If I had to guess it would be the VRM temp. The more voltage to put to the cpu, the higher TMPIN2 temps i see. I know its not cpu temp cause if tmpin2 was cpu temp, would not make any sense, as it reads higher than my core temps, by a good margin, and I know my cpu doesn't get close to 54c. Take it for what it is worth don't get all stressed over the temps (unless your overheating)


Yes. TMPIN02 has been a nightmare for this club.

Your input has brought something to my attention that I wasn't even taking into account. I'm betting the problem isn't the CPU's but the motherboard REVISION. I wounder how many of you who are having problem's reading TMPIN02 are also using a later version of motherboard.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well my board is Rev 3. And I will say that it seems to be a nightmare compared to the older revision boards.


----------



## ElkyJnr

all I wanna do is overclock my unit.. Im lost with all this debate about temps and getting worked up


----------



## Marco76

Hi all!

I've got a problem on my:
- GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 1.1
- AMD Phenom II 965 @stock
- Corsair 16GB / 1600Mhz Vengeance LP [2x8GB] CL9 1,5V rt [CML16GX3M2A1600C9]

I cannot have a Memtest86+ v4.1 test without any error! No matter the setting I put in BIOS....

Tried combinations of:

- Full auto (puts 11-11-11-30 in auto mode and 1333Mhz) - errors in test #6 of Memtest
- Manual settings as per specs of DDR3 (9-9-9-24, 1.5 v, 1600Mhz) - errors in test #6 of Memtest
- Profile 1 auto setting from XPM Profile - errors in test #6 of Memtest
- ganged and unganged - errors in test #6 of Memtest
- raised mem voltage at 1.550v - errors in test #6 of Memtest
- raised mem voltage at 1.650v - lots of errors in test #6 of Memtest
- raised NB VID at 1.300 (+0.200) - lots of errors in test #6 of Memtest

The best I can get is at 9-9-9-24 @ 1.550v @ 1333Mhz - only ONE error in test #6 of Memtest, but this for sure don't satisfy me....

Any suggestion???

I'm getting crazy!!!

Marco


----------



## hurricane28

i don't understand why u all worried about

i mean it is certainly the board and not the cpu so trade or sell that damn board and get UD3 REV. 1.1 like me and your troubles are over. it is clearly the revision of this board because i don't have any trouble with my board anymore now i understand more of it, only i need to have a very high voltage to maintain the 4.6ghz overclock but the temps are good so no problems here.


----------



## Metalcrack

I'm an owner (for now) of a UD3 Rev 3.0 as of yesterday. Updated to latest BIOS-FC and I'm seeing somethings I don't like. Any ideas on solutions if ya have them! (Coming from a Biostar 890FXE) May run it back to Microcenter and hold off until i can find a different board.

1. My old board unlocked my 960t to a 5-core (6th wasn't stable). Unfortunately I can't get this to work, as it was the "5th" core that was bad, the 6th was good. I don't see a way to disable particular cores.

2. My old board could OC my ram to 1704 with the same timings. I loosened the Miracle Memory to stock timings and couldn't get it stable a touch over 1600 (Voltage is steady at 1.515...same as old one).

3. With the lower frequency, Ram scores in Max Mem is 1.0 GB lower 10.4 ->9.5 (TBH the NB frequency is a bit lower as I can't use bclk to up it any).

4. The Auto/default NB-CPU voltage looked the it was set to 1.8. I set it to 1.33 like my old one (any monitor in windows to check?).

Only thing I can think of is the CPU-NB is ready/set wrong causing my headaches. Any ideas?

They have well over 30 pcs of the UD3 instock....so a Rev 1.1 may be possible if deemed the culprit. I could call and ask them as it's listed on the serial sticker.


----------



## toshevopc

Hi! I'm with 990FXA-UD5 mobo and bios F12a and AMD FX 8350 CPU. And in bios i have core performance boost and CPB ratio, but i dont have turbo option... when i disable CPB CPU works around 4028 mhz (20x201.34 by default) and when CPB is working (on auto) it goes to 4127mhz on 20.5x auto multiplier .. Why it does not work on 4200 mhz and is core performance boost = to turbo core? is it normal with GB 990FXA series mobos and FX 8350 turbo core to be missing or on FX series it is CPB not turbo core? or turbo core is option available on phenoms only? could it be problem with my PC?
I saw somewhere that 8350 runs at 4.1 on 8 cores (probably this is my core performance boost) and on 4.2 on 4 cores (probably its turbo core which is missing in my bios ) please help me









Edit: this is shot from my bios: 

and this is from my mb manual where is turbo option available:


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toshevopc*
> 
> Hi! I'm with 990FXA-UD5 mobo and bios F12a and AMD FX 8350 CPU. And in bios i have core performance boost and CPB ratio, but i dont have turbo option... when i disable CPB CPU works around 4028 mhz (20x201.34 by default) and when CPB is working (on auto) it goes to 4127mhz on 20.5x auto multiplier .. Why it does not work on 4200 mhz and is core performance boost = to turbo core? is it normal with GB 990FXA series mobos and FX 8350 turbo core to be missing or on FX series it is CPB not turbo core? or turbo core is option available on phenoms only? could it be problem with my PC?
> I saw somewhere that 8350 runs at 4.1 on 8 cores (probably this is my core performance boost) and on 4.2 on 4 cores (probably its turbo core which is missing in my bios ) please help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: this is shot from my bios:
> 
> and this is from my mb manual where is turbo option available:


core boost is turbo.. Just named differently in bios. All the new Giga bios have it listed this way now. the 8350 should run at 4ghz on all 8 cores. It will turbo to 4.2ghz stock if it has required TDP headroom. It will shut down cores not in use and increase the clock of the remaining active. Regadless the extra 200mhz gained due to turbo core is small. Unless you have the 8320 where its 500mhz, larger difference there.


----------



## levontraut

everyone is worrying about temps..... if it is bellow 85 you are fine

LOL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> hi guys.
> 
> does anyone know if the latest drivers for the ud5 is supported with the first revision of the board??
> 
> i seem to be having troubble with the board.. also does anyone have a copy of the bios that i can flash the board with on a us thogh the flash screen on the boot menu? the one though windows is a problem as i think my boards bios is messed up.
> 
> cheers
> levon


Is anyone able to answer this question pls??

cheers
levon


----------



## toshevopc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> core boost is turbo.. Just named differently in bios. All the new Giga bios have it listed this way now. the 8350 should run at 4ghz on all 8 cores. It will turbo to 4.2ghz stock if it has required TDP headroom. It will shut down cores not in use and increase the clock of the remaining active. Regadless the extra 200mhz gained due to turbo core is small. Unless you have the 8320 where its 500mhz, larger difference there.


ok, but why the cpu doesn't want to go to 4228(21x201.34) only 4127 (20.5x201.34) ? please explain me cuz I'm gonna sad soon


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> everyone is worrying about temps..... if it is bellow 85 you are fine
> 
> LOL
> Is anyone able to answer this question pls??
> 
> cheers
> levon


We are worried about temps because some of us can't see what the temps are, I guess you didn't read that part? You tell me a way to make sure the NB is below 85C and I'll be tickled pink...

And if you go to Gigabytes site and pick the proper revision of your board it will list all the drivers for the specific revision. I would assume they are the same being they are all the same hardware just different BIOS.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> We are worried about temps because some of us can't see what the temps are, I guess you didn't read that part? You tell me a way to make sure the NB is below 85C and I'll be tickled pink...
> 
> And if you go to Gigabytes site and pick the proper revision of your board it will list all the drivers for the specific revision. I would assume they are the same being they are all the same hardware just different BIOS.


If you read the main question i asked, the only bios avalible is through a windows flash.... I want to do it on the boot screen option as i can not get into windows as i think the bios is corrupt


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> We are worried about temps because some of us can't see what the temps are, I guess you didn't read that part? You tell me a way to make sure the NB is below 85C and I'll be tickled pink...
> 
> And if you go to Gigabytes site and pick the proper revision of your board it will list all the drivers for the specific revision. I would assume they are the same being they are all the same hardware just different BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> If you read the main question i asked, the only bios avalible is through a windows flash.... I want to do it on the boot screen option as i can not get into windows as i think the bios is corrupt
Click to expand...

giga boards have their own program built into the bios to flash it. there should be a key like END or crtl +12 something like that . that will boot into the flashing program. Just make sure to have the bios on a usb drive so you can use it to update.
when you download the bios from the site, it is the windows program + bios. in the download.


----------



## toshevopc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> core boost is turbo.. Just named differently in bios. All the new Giga bios have it listed this way now. the 8350 should run at 4ghz on all 8 cores. It will turbo to 4.2ghz stock if it has required TDP headroom. It will shut down cores not in use and increase the clock of the remaining active. Regadless the extra 200mhz gained due to turbo core is small. Unless you have the 8320 where its 500mhz, larger difference there.


bump
ok, but why the cpu doesn't want to go turbo to 4228(21x201.34) and it goes only 4127 (20.5x201.34 which is 4.1) ? please explain me cuz I'm gonna sad soon







201.34 is my stock speed on cpu bus


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toshevopc*
> 
> bump
> ok, but why the cpu doesn't want to go turbo to 4228(21x201.34) and it goes only 4127 (20.5x201.34 which is 4.1) ? please explain me cuz I'm gonna sad soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 201.34 is my stock speed on cpu bus


The only real time it is going to turbo to 4.2ghz is during single thread applications.


----------



## Metalcrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalcrack*
> 
> I'm an owner (for now) of a UD3 Rev 3.0 as of yesterday. Updated to latest BIOS-FC and I'm seeing somethings I don't like. Any ideas on solutions if ya have them! (Coming from a Biostar 890FXE) May run it back to Microcenter and hold off until i can find a different board.
> 
> 1. My old board unlocked my 960t to a 5-core (6th wasn't stable). Unfortunately I can't get this to work, as it was the "5th" core that was bad, the 6th was good. I don't see a way to disable particular cores.
> 
> 2. My old board could OC my ram to 1704 with the same timings. I loosened the Miracle Memory to stock timings and couldn't get it stable a touch over 1600 (Voltage is steady at 1.515...same as old one).
> 
> 3. With the lower frequency, Ram scores in Max Mem is 1.0 GB lower 10.4 ->9.5 (TBH the NB frequency is a bit lower as I can't use bclk to up it any).
> 
> 4. The Auto/default NB-CPU voltage looked the it was set to 1.8. I set it to 1.33 like my old one (any monitor in windows to check?).
> 
> Only thing I can think of is the CPU-NB is ready/set wrong causing my headaches. Any ideas?
> 
> They have well over 30 pcs of the UD3 instock....so a Rev 1.1 may be possible if deemed the culprit. I could call and ask them as it's listed on the serial sticker.


Out of Around 30 boards they had ONE 1.1, so I picked that up as they seem to be the best OC'ing boards (from what I've read). Microcenter is very good with returns, so I can play around.

EDIT: I can get the same OC settings as my previous Biostar 890fx board, but only at 4 cores. I'm sure i can push it further, so I thinks it's a go for 1.1! Should hold me over until SteamRoller.


----------



## toshevopc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> The only real time it is going to turbo to 4.2ghz is during single thread applications.


oh thanks so much !







btw is there any program to start single thread and to check if it will go to 4.2?


----------



## toddincabo

Hi All,

I've been searching around to see if the 3X power supply and ON/Off Charge works with the rear 3.0 ports or only with the available board socket after adding an adapter.

thanks

O.K. I found the answer on several sites... "All USB ports also benefit from a 3x power boost for better power delivery to power hungry USB devices."

So I downloaded and installed the drivers, so I guess I'm set.

The USB 3.0 has been a must for my Belkin N52te game controller because I require two 3' extensions to reach my rig. Was impossible to use this length of extension on my older 2.0 only Gigabyte board. (Super delay at first movement).


----------



## ElkyJnr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Fill out your sig rig details and we can get started.
> 
> Scroll up and click on "My Profile"
> Scroll down and fill out your sig rig detail's.
> From there someone around here is sure to have some helpful tid-bits.


tried but havent had much luck so far


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> tried but havent had much luck so far


Im not experienced enough yet to give any usefull advice except to steer you towards research material.

http://www.overclock.net/t/792461/amd-overclocking-guides-essential-threads

Do your research and you will find the answers to most of your questions.
And after that if you have questions the above link will contain the threads where you can ask them.


----------



## dizzin9

anybody know why my memory can't be set anything above a 6.67 multiplier? i tried to run it @ 1866 and can't do it. i got to 1600 but i had to change the BCLK clock control to 240.00 mhz.

my ud3 has the FC bios. rest of specs in my profile.

thanks.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

You should be able to change the memory. Are you able to lower it or is it "stuck" on 6.67?


----------



## dizzin9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> You should be able to change the memory. Are you able to lower it or is it "stuck" on 6.67?


it seems like it's stuck at 6.67. i tried profile1, 8.0, 9.33, and the frequency is still 1333 mhz. unless i do anything with the BCLK clock control, the memory frequency stays the same.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> tried but havent had much luck so far


Hey, sorry. Doing 10 million things at once and yet another snow storm hit the midwest









The link from Sven is a great place to start. What is the rig for, gaming or work?


----------



## John9000

Hey! Can i ask something?








Im sure you will have said this before but 482 pages are obviously a lot.
Does 1.2 Rev of Gigabyte 990fxa UD3 work with 8320/8350 *out of the box*? I mean without need to update the BIOS JUST to start and run the pc.Because if im gonna buy this from amazon (it has only 1.2 rev aswell,they also have GA 970 rev 1.0 jesus,2 years later,anyway) and im gonna buy also (not sure,im between many parts xD) the 8320 from amazon,to a totally new computer without having an old amd cpu,so just to be sure


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I would imagine so. The rev 1.1 I originally got recognized my 8350 right out of the box.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

To Everyone one with the 990FXA-UD3 Rev 3.0 Motherboards,

I have been messing around with some beta bios I was supplied but unfortunately I have had no luck. I still have had no luck and have reported this to Gigabyte but so far, all I have gotten from gigabyte is the same old ,"Overclocking is not guaranteed" shpeal. It's ******* insulting. When I originally flashed my Bios to their beta version I was able to hit 4.5 GHz no problem. But after a restart everything went to crap.

I have no clue what the future holds for this motherboard and its god awful revision. I am really regretting this purchase and unfortunately I am stuck with this garbage because I thought gigabyte would fix it.


----------



## itomic

I dont have any problems with mine UD-5 REV 3.0 regarding overclocking !!


----------



## John9000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I would imagine so. The rev 1.1 I originally got recognized my 8350 right out of the box.


So 1.2 99,9% will be ok?







Thanks!


----------



## ElkyJnr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> Hey, sorry. Doing 10 million things at once and yet another snow storm hit the midwest
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The link from Sven is a great place to start. What is the rig for, gaming or work?


For gaming Mainly.. ive updated the bios with @bios but havent done a flash update...


----------



## John9000

So,its really important,just to be sure.
Will 8320 work out of the box with this? -> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-GA-990FXA-UD3-Optical-Channel-Motherboard/dp/B00545BZOG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364166750&sr=8-1

Its 1.2 Rev

Sorry for this again


----------



## ElkyJnr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *John9000*
> 
> So,its really important,just to be sure.
> Will 8320 work out of the box with this? -> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Gigabyte-GA-990FXA-UD3-Optical-Channel-Motherboard/dp/B00545BZOG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1364166750&sr=8-1
> 
> Its 1.2 Rev
> 
> Sorry for this again


Ive got this same board but mines 1.0 rev.. i love this board but wanna get an 8core with a top notch board.. i dont see why ur cpu wont work


----------



## Sazz

Question, my UD5 suddenly takes a long time booting the from BIOS, back then 10seconds or so and I am in the windows loading screen but now it takes 30seconds or more just to get it to the windows loading screen, and once in loading screen it takes another 30seconds or so before it actually starts loading. been having problems with the board, first board I got failed after a month and took out my CPU in the process, then they sent me 2 other boards as replacement that don't work, this was the 3rd, been using it for over 2months now and few days ago the BIOS seems to load a lot slower, I have a light overclock on my 8350 at 4.6Ghz at 1.45v vcore cpunb at 1.2625v, got K8 turned on for daily clocks but I have done prime95 24hr run with it turned off and temps never goes over 54C (under watercooling), is there something going on wrong with the board again? should I go for another RMA?

And another question, what's the difference between the UD5 Rev 1.1 and 3.0? any significant change on how it handles voltages for overclocking? coz I probably would just sell this board and get myself a Sabertooth or CVFZ.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> To Everyone one with the 990FXA-UD3 Rev 3.0 Motherboards,
> 
> I have been messing around with some beta bios I was supplied but unfortunately I have had no luck. I still have had no luck and have reported this to Gigabyte but so far, all I have gotten from gigabyte is the same old ,"Overclocking is not guaranteed" shpeal. It's ******* insulting. When I originally flashed my Bios to their beta version I was able to hit 4.5 GHz no problem. But after a restart everything went to crap.
> 
> I have no clue what the future holds for this motherboard and its god awful revision. I am really regretting this purchase and unfortunately I am stuck with this garbage because I thought gigabyte would fix it.


Would you mind sending me that beta? I'd like to give it a shot but I'm 99% certain I'll have the same issue as you. I think its VRM related, I can turn APM mode off using the AMD Overdrive trick. Even with APM off I still get throttling. I'm in the same boat as you, I hate this waste of money and the very second I have the extra money to spend I'll by getting a CHV or Sabertooth.


----------



## jamalakj




----------



## vonss

When pressing CTR+F1 while in the BIOS I get another menu called "Advanced chipset menu" which has an option called "GPP core CFG", ¿anyone knows what is it for?


----------



## Paladine

Post Deleted by Paladine


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElkyJnr*
> 
> For gaming Mainly.. ive updated the bios with @bios but havent done a flash update...


ok. I would suggest not Overclocking RAM and stick with pushing the CPU as close to 4.0Ghz as possible while also trying to get the CPU-NB(not the physical NB) to around 2800-3000Mhz. The CPU clock speed is self explanatory, but the CPU-NB will give a great performance boost. Overclocking RAM won't show any gains in gaming and will stress out the CPU's on-board memory controller. That should be more than enough of an overclock to remove any bottle neck you might be experiencing.

You can overclock the RAM but it won't make much difference at all. The slowest DDR3 RAM vs the Fastest is only a difference of like 3-4 FPS.
62c is the thermal limit on the CPU, but I would keep it below 55c for overclocking stability.

I would use a program like MSI AfterBurner to Overclock the GPU. Also don't forget about Power Tune









back to the TMPIN testing: the snow storm has messed everything up right now. 2 of the 3 peeps I know with the CPU have responded with a "Nope". Waiting on one last person I know to respond but Don't worry I have not forgotten about it.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> ok. I would suggest not Overclocking RAM and stick with pushing the CPU as close to 4.0Ghz as possible while also trying to get the CPU-NB(not the physical NB) to around 2800-3000Mhz. The CPU clock speed is self explanatory, but the CPU-NB will give a great performance boost. Overclocking RAM won't show any gains in gaming and will stress out the CPU's on-board memory controller. That should be more than enough of an overclock to remove any bottle neck you might be experiencing.
> 
> You can overclock the RAM but it won't make much difference at all. The slowest DDR3 RAM vs the Fastest is only a difference of like 3-4 FPS.
> 62c is the thermal limit on the CPU, but I would keep it below 55c for overclocking stability.
> 
> I would use a program like MSI AfterBurner to Overclock the GPU. Also don't forget about Power Tune
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> back to the TMPIN testing: the snow storm has messed everything up right now. 2 of the 3 peeps I know with the CPU have responded with a "Nope". Waiting on one last person I know to respond but Don't worry I have not forgotten about it.


Could this help me too?

i have the nb stock at 2200 and my cpu is now at 4.4 instead of the 4.6 that was a little too high and i get blue screens when i was gaming.

What is the save voltage for the NB and how to monitor it?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> ok. I would suggest not Overclocking RAM and stick with pushing the CPU as close to 4.0Ghz as possible while also trying to get the CPU-NB(not the physical NB) to around 2800-3000Mhz. The CPU clock speed is self explanatory, but the CPU-NB will give a great performance boost. Overclocking RAM won't show any gains in gaming and will stress out the CPU's on-board memory controller. That should be more than enough of an overclock to remove any bottle neck you might be experiencing.
> 
> You can overclock the RAM but it won't make much difference at all. The slowest DDR3 RAM vs the Fastest is only a difference of like 3-4 FPS.
> 62c is the thermal limit on the CPU, but I would keep it below 55c for overclocking stability.
> 
> I would use a program like MSI AfterBurner to Overclock the GPU. Also don't forget about Power Tune
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> back to the TMPIN testing: the snow storm has messed everything up right now. 2 of the 3 peeps I know with the CPU have responded with a "Nope". Waiting on one last person I know to respond but Don't worry I have not forgotten about it.


The FX processors don't respond to CPU-NB overclocks like Thuban/Deneb and such did. I bumped mine up and seen very minimal gains. They seem to like RAM clocks more than CPU-NB clocks.


----------



## hurricane28

aha oke,

So u suggest to turn my ram up?

and how do i do that? i mean i had some advise form one that said to overclock the FSB but when i did the ram speed is going down so whats the point of overclocking the FSB right.

In my signature u can see what ram i am using.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> The FX processors don't respond to CPU-NB overclocks like Thuban/Deneb and such did. I bumped mine up and seen very minimal gains. They seem to like RAM clocks more than CPU-NB clocks.


0.o

Never mentioned FX CPU's.. That advice was given to a user with a Phenom II..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> aha oke,
> 
> So u suggest to turn my ram up?
> 
> and how do i do that? i mean i had some advise form one that said to overclock the FSB but when i did the ram speed is going down so whats the point of overclocking the FSB right.
> 
> In my signature u can see what ram i am using.


Depend's. Overclocking your RAM won't bog down the Internal Memory Controller but it might be a total waste of time if your a gamer. If you fold or use some other kind of work load it "might" pay off. RAM is very fast by today's standerd's and overclocking will net little to no actual performance gain.

But it won't hurt anything with your FX CPU like it would on a phenom.

If your CPU has an unlocked multiplier I would strongly suggest you use it to overclock. Just for simplicity's sake...


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> 0.o
> 
> Never mentioned FX CPU's.. That advice was given to a user with a Phenom II..
> Depend's. Overclocking your RAM won't bog down the Internal Memory Controller but it might be a total waste of time if your a gamer. If you fold or use some other kind of work load it "might" pay off. RAM is very fast by today's standerd's and overclocking will net little to no actual performance gain.
> 
> But it won't hurt anything with your FX CPU like it would on a phenom.
> 
> If your CPU has an unlocked multiplier I would strongly suggest you use it to overclock. Just for simplicity's sake...


And another user that is using an FX processor quoted your post assuming it would work just as well for him since you didn't specify. I was just clarifying.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> And another user that is using an FX processor quoted your post assuming it would work just as well for him since you didn't specify. I was just clarifying.


lol.. this club has me twitchy... Anything said will be used aginst you at some point


----------



## dizzin9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzin9*
> 
> anybody know why my memory can't be set anything above a 6.67 multiplier? i tried to run it @ 1866 and can't do it. i got to 1600 but i had to change the BCLK clock control to 240.00 mhz.
> 
> my ud3 has the FC bios. rest of specs in my profile.
> 
> thanks.


so nobody here is running 1866 on their UD3?

anyone?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> The FX processors don't respond to CPU-NB overclocks like Thuban/Deneb and such did. I bumped mine up and seen very minimal gains. They seem to like RAM clocks more than CPU-NB clocks.


not really true. Increasing the hyper transport and north bridge still give rather solid gains. It improves cache latency, and faster ram results. It also appears to help with muti gpu setups.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzin9*
> 
> so nobody here is running 1866 on their UD3?
> 
> anyone?


Yes, all the way up to 2200.. right now Im rockin' 1904 cl9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> not really true. Increasing the hyper transport and north bridge still give rather solid gains. It improves cache latency, and faster ram results. It also appears to help with muti gpu setups.


FX chips decoupled the cache from the NB clock... So that doesn't matter. At this point, OC'ing a FX NB will allow IMC to "Keep up" with a high memory clock... that's about it...

As far as HT... I've actually noticed decreases in performance with anything over 2600 (again, nothing crazy... but still no benefit) ...

And I agree, this club seems to be transitioning toward a motley crew...


----------



## stubass

Hi all
i fianlly picked up a 990FXA-UD5 rev 1.1 which will be used for subzero benching. anyone here have experinece with DICE or Ln2 on this board that has any advice or share their experences for any supported CPU you may have used. I.E like voltage monitoring with a DMM, using easytune or BIOS for subzero overclocking etc etc

cheers


----------



## Marco76

Hi again,
anyone using the UD5 with 8GB DDR3 sticks??

I'm getting errors in memtest with my 16GB kit (2x8GB) Venegance LP...
Tryed it in an Intel DELL Optiplex and it goes without any error...

Do you think this could be the Processor (965BE)? Better upgrade it to 8350?

Thanks!!


----------



## Fordox

got your speeds, timings and voltage correct in the bios according to the specs of your RAM?


----------



## Marco76

Tryed:
Auto
As per specs
Overvolt/undervolt RAM and NB VID
All this in a lot of combinations...

I'm desperate!!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzin9*
> 
> so nobody here is running 1866 on their UD3?
> 
> anyone?


I'm running mine at 1866 plus a FSB overclock. Mine is at 2052mhz. I am able to select the 2133 divider also. Are you using page up and page down to select them?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KhaoticKomputing*
> 
> lol.. this club has me twitchy... Anything said will be used aginst you at some point


No worries my friend. It must have been rough here at one point for you to be having Nam flashbacks!


----------



## vonss

¿So none knows what the GPP core CFG is?


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

Quote:


> ¿So none knows what the GPP core CFG is?


I cant find anything with a google search.
How about you contact Gigabyte and ask them in an e-mail perhaps and post the info here.


----------



## Mccaula718

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> ¿So none knows what the GPP core CFG is?


Did you look in the manual? If that and google don't work, you'll have to contact gigabyte. Make sure u post your results so it comes up in others searches.


----------



## vonss

There's nothing on the manual and Gigabyte Tech Support reply (as bloody useless as usual) was something on the lines "is a option only for our techs, don't bother with it". I can't find the tech support/ticket on their site anymore to check the actual ticket.
And those are the reasons why I'm askin' here. I'm surprised no one has wondered about that before.


----------



## dizzin9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*


edit: nvm got it working now


----------



## ginger_nuts

Is it important to keep the drivers updated?

I am talking the ones listed on Gigabytes website. They seem newer then the ones I got originally.


----------



## Warped Trekker

*How is the onboard RAID on the 990FXA-UDx boards? Does it work properly?* I have a UD3 and currently using AHCI. In the past, I've had major issues with onboard RAID dropping drives out of the array because Windows decided not to shutdown properly. Then I had to wait hours for the array to rebuild. I would like some redundancy for my OS using two SSD(RAID1)


----------



## blue-cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> *How is the onboard RAID on the 990FXA-UDx boards? Does it work properly?* I have a UD3 and currently using AHCI. In the past, I've had major issues with onboard RAID dropping drives out of the array because Windows decided not to shutdown properly. Then I had to wait hours for the array to rebuild. I would like some redundancy for my OS using two SSD(RAID1)


I tried using the RAID functions but found that it was alot of hassle (my drives are quite old and decrepit and sometimes drop out for no reason on top of the occasional drop out. I just used the windows drive manager to set up software raid. I know it's not hardware but it works and is easier for me to manage.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Warped Trekker*
> 
> *How is the onboard RAID on the 990FXA-UDx boards? Does it work properly?* I have a UD3 and currently using AHCI. In the past, I've had major issues with onboard RAID dropping drives out of the array because Windows decided not to shutdown properly. Then I had to wait hours for the array to rebuild. I would like some redundancy for my OS using two SSD(RAID1)


That is one this about this board that I can't say bad anything about. I have two WD Black's in RAID 0. I actually had them setup this way with my old Asus M4A79T deluxe. I plugged them into this board and set the BIOS to RAID and it found the array and was fully functional with all my data still intact. I have never once had an issue with this board or my Asus board dropping drives from the array.


----------



## thirsty4more

Any news about the ud3 rev3.0 bios? Stuck here as well throttling with 8120 and the ud3 rev 3. Without hpc it goes from 4.4 to 2.8 very often. With hpc on it goes from 4.4ghz to 1.4ghz every few seconds. My temps are all under 43 degrees in hwmonitor after 2 hours of IBT.


----------



## Warped Trekker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thirsty4more*
> 
> Any news about the ud3 rev3.0 bios? Stuck here as well throttling with 8120 and the ud3 rev 3. Without hpc it goes from 4.4 to 2.8 very often. With hpc on it goes from 4.4ghz to 1.4ghz every few seconds. My temps are all under 43 degrees in hwmonitor after 2 hours of IBT.


This is one thing I hate about Gigabyte. They seem to like to keep their BIOS's in a beta state. I had two older boards where they left the last BIOS release in a beta state. I would have liked to see a little more effort on their part to release better and stable BIOS.


----------



## John9000

Ive seen too much discussion over this board about REVs and problems with OCs,temps etc........Is it worth?
Im not sure how will my new rig will be but im confused over this motherboard.
I like its appearance(the only in its price range -except asrock 990 extreme 3 which is cheaper with less features- that has really black color and not this awfull heatsinks color that asus boards have)
I also like its features and generally seems a good mobo for its price. Sabertooth is alot more expensive.
But im confused. Im not really sure if 1.2 rev works with 8350 out of the box,some people say yes,some others no... I dont know if rev 3 has some extra features that 1.2 doesnt have hardware speaking and not the new uefi bios.Some also say that rev 3 have some problems generally.
Also if i buy the 1.2 (i really cant find online rev 3 in europe.) will i have to update the bios (to add the uefi style) or it doesn't matter,it will give me the same oc potential,just without the mouse controlling bios? Do they have different audio chip btw?Are their differences at hardware + bios level ,enough to be concerned? Or nothing really to care about?
Also one last. Im REALLY worried about the update thing,i can't imagine myself updating it ,how is the easiest way without flash drives etc?
I hope i dont need to update it to make a 8350 work *as it should be* and OCing to 4.4 at least without problems ,and without any other problem about sound chip,temps etc


----------



## Warped Trekker

*TPM chip.* Where do I buy one for this board? There is a connector for one, yet can't find any. Gigabyte should have just integrated the TPM chip onboard, instead of having a socket to add one later.


----------



## Paladine

Post Deleted by Paladine


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Isn't VTT an Intel thing?


----------



## MadGoat

its the base memory base clock voltage...

It's a "computer thing" lol...


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> its the base memory base clock voltage...
> 
> It's a "computer thing" lol...


well enlighten us!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> well enlighten us!


Feel free to read about it yourself:

A good link to start your basic understand right HERE

Our boards default to .75 when moving the VIO ref from default. (this works for a 1.5v ddrv)


----------



## Hellsrage

Any news on a BIOS update for GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev. 3.0? This throttling thing really screwed with me, I'm happy I searched this thread for a few hours, thought I was the cause. (newb OCer)

Also is there a good guide for OCing via FSB? I tried and crashed past a certain point and have no clue what needs to be changed to keep it stable.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Feel free to read about it yourself:
> 
> A good link to start your basic understand right HERE
> 
> Our boards default to .75 when moving the VIO ref from default. (this works for a 1.5v ddrv)


Why didn't you post this up when Paladine asked about it? My DDR voltage is quite happy at 1.66v without me touching any VTT settings. I'll read up on it just because but I've never had a need to use it.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Any news on a BIOS update for GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev. 3.0? This throttling thing really screwed with me, I'm happy I searched this thread for a few hours, thought I was the cause. (newb OCer)
> 
> Also is there a good guide for OCing via FSB? I tried and crashed past a certain point and have no clue what needs to be changed to keep it stable.


Gigabyte supplied another member here a beta BIOS that is supposed to address the throttling. Unfortunately it did solve the issue.

At what point is it crashing? I have mine up to 220mhz without doing anything at all.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Unfortunately it did solve the issue.


how unfortunate


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Gigabyte supplied another member here a beta BIOS that is supposed to address the throttling. Unfortunately it did solve the issue.
> 
> At what point is it crashing? I have mine up to 220mhz without doing anything at all.


Yeah I read his post earlier, hopefully they release a working BIOS soon then.

220mhz is actually exactly where I loose stability and either fail to boot windows or get a BSOD when inside windows after a few minutes.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Yeah I read his post earlier, hopefully they release a working BIOS soon then.
> 
> 220mhz is actually exactly where I loose stability and either fail to boot windows or get a BSOD when inside windows after a few minutes.


Weird. I have had mine up to 230 with the CPU at 4.6ghz but have severe throttling. No BSODs or failed boots. Have you tried bumping up the NB voltage a little?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Why didn't you post this up when Paladine asked about it? My DDR voltage is quite happy at 1.66v without me touching any VTT settings. I'll read up on it just because but I've never had a need to use it.


This is because AMD VTT run different than Intel VTT. Intel the VTT voltage is directly related to the IMC and needs to be manipulated only at high ram OCs and even then is very delicate because the IMC is very touchy to voltage. Amd however uses VTT as the base voltage for the DDR. The board will set the VTT based upon memory voltage input. VTT need to be ~.5 the memory voltage. As you can see .75v is directly related to 1.5v ram voltage (.5 of 1.5). Some can gain a tremendous amount of stability by maintaining their memory voltage as close as possible to the 1.5v mark to keep as close to VTT as possible. This will also allow you to maintain lower latencies at what ram clocks are achievable for the ram in question @ 1.5v.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Weird. I have had mine up to 230 with the CPU at 4.6ghz but have severe throttling. No BSODs or failed boots. Have you tried bumping up the NB voltage a little?


Upped it one bump and manged to actually load to my desktop but it still crashed shortly after.


----------



## Hellsrage

I don't know what to do, I really don't I can't seem to get stable at 220mhz (FSB) nothing works. I just went through and spent an hour doing nothing but trial and error, this is really confusing me.


----------



## Blizzard001

Hi guys, I am new here and recently just started overclocking the fx 8350 cpu using the 990fxa ud3 motherboard. I have a problem which I need help with. Here is the problem. Everytime I turn the pc on and have fans spinning and LED light up, after about 1-2 seconds it turns off then turns on again and I can here the grinding sound from my DVD drive. I found out that by setting the core boost function to "auto", everything works fine, no problem of turning on then off then on again. However, when I disable the core boost function, this problem arises. What are the solutions to this problem?


----------



## Blizzard001

I forgot to mention I am using the rev3.0 990fxa ud3 motherboard with the FC bios


----------



## ebduncan

For your FSB questions the UD3 has FSB dead zones, well at least mine does. Granted mine is a revision 1.0, however that part of the board didn't change. Rev 1.1, 1.2 are adjustments to the power phase system to include LLC, Rev 3.0 incorporates UEFI bios.

for example i can run 200-215mhz fsb, then its unstable from 216-230, then stable again between 231-250.

I've been at 310mhz fsb completely stable.

However their is no reason to FSB overclock the Fx processors. Sure you can play with it some to reach your final clock, otherwise its purely multiplier. Your computer will score the exact same results with 300fsb x 15 (4.5ghz) as it would 200fsb x 22.5 (4.5ghz) Granted the hypertransport and northbridge are still clocked the same. Overall you will just induce more headaches than its worth with bus overclocking.

also VTT on AMD cpu's has nothing to do with IMC. If it does then you wouldn't also have a CPU-NB voltage adjustment which refers to the IMC (also has an effect on L3 cache). VTT on AMD cpus Am2+ and newer refers to the voltage going to the termination logic on the ram. Its default is .5x your Memory voltage. So at 1.5 volts your VTT should be .750. If you have a Dram set to 1.65 volts your VTT should be set to .825 For best stability you should always leave it set to .5 X your memory voltage.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

For anyone who wants to try the beta drivers for the UD3 rev 3.0 motherboard, just PM me and I can give them to you. Right now tech support is saying they are having no problems on their end when there are clearly issues that have yet to be resolved.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blizzard001*
> 
> Hi guys, I am new here and recently just started overclocking the fx 8350 cpu using the 990fxa ud3 motherboard. I have a problem which I need help with. Here is the problem. Everytime I turn the pc on and have fans spinning and LED light up, after about 1-2 seconds it turns off then turns on again and I can here the grinding sound from my DVD drive. I found out that by setting the core boost function to "auto", everything works fine, no problem of turning on then off then on again. However, when I disable the core boost function, this problem arises. What are the solutions to this problem?


I have that exact same issue, I have no clue to be honest. Does anyone have an answer to this?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Mine did the on-off-on crap for a while. Then I flashed the Beta BIOS I got from you, which didn't work, so I reflashed FC. After reflashing FC I'm not having the on-off-on anymore. Not sure what changed.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> For anyone who wants to try the beta drivers for the UD3 rev 3.0 motherboard, just PM me and I can give them to you. Right now tech support is saying they are having no problems on their end when there are clearly issues that have yet to be resolved.
> I have that exact same issue, I have no clue to be honest. Does anyone have an answer to this?


I also get it, what ever it is it seems to do it if I have CPU Unlock enabled. It also seems extremely random sometimes it doesn't do it and sometimes it does it 3x in a row. Also go a head and shoot me that beta BIOS I'll give it a shot.


----------



## KhaoticKomputing

Hey guys, in regaurds to locating a FX chip to test alongside my Phenom II, at this point its a no go. The last person I know with a FX chip doesn't want to part with it for the time being.

The search will continue though. If it goes on for too long I'll abuse microcenter's return policy for the sake of learning...


----------



## dizzin9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Mine did the on-off-on crap for a while. Then I flashed the Beta BIOS I got from you, which didn't work, so I reflashed FC. After reflashing FC I'm not having the on-off-on anymore. Not sure what changed.


it's the cpu multiplier. if it's set anything other than auto, it will do this on/off/on thing.


----------



## Hellsrage

Well I tried that beta BIOS out for us UD3 Rev. 3.0 owners just like everyone else it didn't help at all. I actually found that my CPU started to throttle faster with APM off, I also noticed a temp increase but I'm not sure why.

I sent an email to Gigabyte and they just replied telling me what I already knew and said in my question, the person also suggest I try "Ctrl+F1" in the BIOS which doesn't do anything other than bring the navigation guide up which is only because I hit "F1".


----------



## SpykeZ

So I fried my UD3 haha, got my 8350 to 5.2GHz, 1.583 volts. So anywho, the VRMs pretty much went kaput. I'm sending the board back to Gigabyte, now my question is, does anyone know if I could talk Gigabyte into keeping the board after they repair it and upgrade to the UD5? Kind of "sell" my board to them?

Also does the Rev 1.0 have LLC?


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

I thought the limit was 1.55 .
Why did you go to 1.58?
Kinda your own fault it died.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SvenTheBerserK*
> 
> I thought the limit was 1.55 .
> Why did you go to 1.58?
> Kinda your own fault it died.


I never stated that it was anyone elses fault now did I? Also, I went above because I could, because I can, and because I did, because this is OCN and I wanted to push hard so I did just that, and I got 5.2GHz stable. Did I say screw gigabyte? That their boards sucked? NOPE! I only stated I plan on giving them more of my money. So keep your useless comments to yourself. 1.5*83* is fine, I'm under water and had great temps, what I didn't pay attention to was keeping the VRM heatsink cool like everything else, thus why it failed, lesson learned. 5.2GHz, 1.583 volts, that's almost pushing 300 watts through those guys. Now I know the limits of the board.

Anywho, back to the question above disregarding the dumb comment made. It also seems like you guys are having issues OCing with the 3.0 revision? I should probably look for a 1.1rev board than? Doesn't appear LLC was in 1.0


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> I'm sending the board back to Gigabyte, now my question is, does anyone know if I could talk Gigabyte into keeping the board after they repair it and upgrade to the UD5? Kind of "sell" my board to them?


Sounds like you expect Gigabyte to fix your mistake.
Bad form.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> It also seems like you guys are having issues OCing with the 3.0 revision? I should probably look for a 1.1rev board than? Doesn't appear LLC was in 1.0


Right now the Rev 3.0 board doesn't have an option to disable APM which is causing us throttling issues, at least those of us with FX CPUs.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Right now the Rev 3.0 board doesn't have an option to disable APM which is causing us throttling issues, at least those of us with FX CPUs.


Well that sucks. If I buy retail I'll get stuck with 3.0.....might have to look into other boards now, cause I'm def not going to play the beta bios game.


----------



## Leokul

Hey all.
I know I'm off the current topic, but I really need some help here.

I just wen out and got myself some 3TB hard drives (3 of them) that I want to set up into a RAID 5 array using the UD5's built-in abilities.
I've never set up a RAID array before, just FYI, but have done a lot of reading, and I'm only curious to know if this is possible:
I have an SSD for my OS. I want to keep that off of my RAID array.
Is it possible on this UD5 mobo to have my 3x3TB drives in a RAID 5 array on the mobo at the same time as the SSD, WITHOUT having my SSD as part of the RAID array?
If this is possible, someone PLEASE let me know, and possibly how I'd go about setting this up.
I do NOT want people telling me to go and buy a hardware RAID controller for $400, 'cause that's not going to happen. Nor do I want someone telling me I should use a different RAID level. I just want help with my specific setup please.

Thank you!


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Guys need help...I can't figure out were the hell I can find the spread spectrum ( wanting to disable it. )

system specs:
990fxa-ud3 rev. 3.0 FC
8350

TIA.


----------



## punk2k6

I don't think there is a option for it


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ifyouseekayeU*
> 
> Guys need help...I can't figure out were the hell I can find the spread spectrum ( wanting to disable it. )
> 
> system specs:
> 990fxa-ud3 rev. 3.0 FC
> 8350
> 
> TIA.


Press CTR+F1 while in the BIOS and you will get an extra menu.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Press CTR+F1 while in the BIOS and you will get an extra menu.


Not for me you don't. I was told to do this by Gigabyte support and didn't get any menu just a navigation guide....


----------



## billy66bare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Leokul*
> 
> Hey all.
> I know I'm off the current topic, but I really need some help here.
> 
> I just wen out and got myself some 3TB hard drives (3 of them) that I want to set up into a RAID 5 array using the UD5's built-in abilities.
> I've never set up a RAID array before, just FYI, but have done a lot of reading, and I'm only curious to know if this is possible:
> I have an SSD for my OS. I want to keep that off of my RAID array.
> Is it possible on this UD5 mobo to have my 3x3TB drives in a RAID 5 array on the mobo at the same time as the SSD, WITHOUT having my SSD as part of the RAID array?
> If this is possible, someone PLEASE let me know, and possibly how I'd go about setting this up.
> I do NOT want people telling me to go and buy a hardware RAID controller for $400, 'cause that's not going to happen. Nor do I want someone telling me I should use a different RAID level. I just want help with my specific setup please.
> 
> Thank you!


Welcome to OCN!
You /should/ be able to. Usually in the setup of the RAID (you should do it before you install your OS) it will ask which disks you want to include. You can just pick your 4 other disks. Your SSD should just run like any other drive at that point. If you already have your hardware just plug in your drives, go into the BIOS and set the HDD's to RAID, and save and exit. After the BIOS screen you should get a prompt to hit a button to enter the RAID setup. After that just go out and buy a $400 RAID card. Totally kidding,







, I feel your pain.

Feel free to post back with any questions.


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Press CTR+F1 while in the BIOS and you will get an extra menu.

I'll try that. If doesnt work, thanks anyway.


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Not for me you don't. I was told to do this by Gigabyte support and didn't get any menu just a navigation guide....


Damn right...Anyway how far do you get oc'ng youre procie?TIA


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ifyouseekayeU*
> 
> Damn right...Anyway how far do you get oc'ng youre procie?TIA


So far I'm at 4.6 but I plan to go up higher(as high as temps will allow). I'll have to use just the multiplier though as it seems my particular CPU/Motherboard dislikes FSB overclocking.


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> So far I'm at 4.6 but I plan to go up higher(as high as temps will allow). I'll have to use just the multiplier though as it seems my particular CPU/Motherboard dislikes FSB overclocking.


Youre right.CPU socket and nb temps are my concern too....Have you tried bumping down your nb frequency or voltage to get lower temps?


----------



## itomic

When will Gigabyte relase new BIOS for UD-5 REV 3.0 ??


----------



## vonss

Well the spectrum is disabled by default on this boards, at least the previous versions of the rev 3.


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

My nb temp shoot up oc'ng my procie at 4.6ghz, Ive seen these on the net, don't know what brand it might be...Guys have any idea what brand and does this item still exist in the market.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ifyouseekayeU*
> 
> 
> 
> My nb temp shoot up oc'ng my procie at 4.6ghz, Ive seen these on the net, don't know what brand it might be...Guys have any idea what brand and does this item still exist in the market.


That's why most argue about the truly being the NB temp (including myself) because an OC shouldn't affect it THAT MUCH.

I don't have any info on that HS but I don't think that would fit if you have a GPU and an aftermarket cooler on your CPU.


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> That's why most argue about the truly being the NB temp (including myself) because an OC shouldn't affect it THAT MUCH.
> 
> I don't have any info on that HS but I don't think that would fit if you have a GPU and an aftermarket cooler on your CPU.


I agree it would not fit into the mounting holes of a ud3, and if these comes with mounting bracket still wont fit, its an old item. but, I could use a 3m double adhesive tape to mount this...Whats you're load nb temp BTW?


----------



## SeriousTom

Is there any way to get 4 sticks of 1866 memory to run in Dual channel besides overclocking the FSB ?
I have 4 - 4GB sticks of Crucial 1866 and anytime I try anything higher than 8 on the memory multiplier it won't work.
Nothing seems to work other than raising the FSB to 233 and then raising the voltage on the NB.
When I do this BF3 always crashes and I get a little instability.
Is there something else I can try ?


----------



## Metalcrack

A crappy cell pic.....good ones when I can

UD3 V1.1


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ifyouseekayeU*
> 
> I agree it would not fit into the mounting holes of a ud3, and if these comes with mounting bracket still wont fit, its an old item. but, I could use a 3m double adhesive tape to mount this...Whats you're load nb temp BTW?


Usually around 58-64 with my current OC.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Is there any way to get 4 sticks of 1866 memory to run in Dual channel besides overclocking the FSB ?
> I have 4 - 4GB sticks of Crucial 1866 and anytime I try anything higher than 8 on the memory multiplier it won't work.
> Nothing seems to work other than raising the FSB to 233 and then raising the voltage on the NB.
> When I do this BF3 always crashes and I get a little instability.
> Is there something else I can try ?


I depends on your CPU IMC mainly.
Try using the EOCP to set it automatically for you.


----------



## Cores

I hope none of you mind, since I am not a member of this club and don't own a GA-990FXA board, but I have a question. I see some people with Gigabyte's UEFI 3DBIOS on the UD3. Does the UD5 use the same style UEFI 3DBIOS? If so, which revisions? I don't want a board with the legacy BIOS style.

Thank you.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I depends on your CPU IMC mainly.
> Try using the EOCP to set it automatically for you.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Is there any way to get 4 sticks of 1866 memory to run in Dual channel besides overclocking the FSB ?
> I have 4 - 4GB sticks of Crucial 1866 and anytime I try anything higher than 8 on the memory multiplier it won't work.
> Nothing seems to work other than raising the FSB to 233 and then raising the voltage on the NB.
> When I do this BF3 always crashes and I get a little instability.
> Is there something else I can try ?


I have done that and when I boot it will say something about overclock fail and put me at 1333 on the memory.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> I hope none of you mind, since I am not a member of this club and don't own a GA-990FXA board, but I have a question. I see some people with Gigabyte's UEFI 3DBIOS on the UD3. Does the UD5 use the same style UEFI 3DBIOS? If so, which revisions? I don't want a board with the legacy BIOS style.
> 
> Thank you.


All 3 have the new bios with rev 3.0


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> All 3 have the new bios with rev 3.0


Thank you for the reply. It's well appreciated.


----------



## runelotus

Hello guys,

I just Did 6th month stripped drown maintenace of my board which is 990FXA-D3 ,i just noticed that the board is a bit flimsy , flexed a bit with creaky sound ,
Guys is this normal for this board, or anyboady noticed this when working with this board or any 900 series amd board . I Had an Older GA-G41 S2P Gigabyte board whick seems of solid

Thanks! smile.gif


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> I have done that and when I boot it will say something about overclock fail and put me at 1333 on the memory.


Well that's just weird, the only thing I can think of is increasing the CPU-NB voltage and the NB, without touching the "FSB". Also, give the ram a tad extra volts too, around 0.15v.


----------



## Carlosmans

Hi,

I have just got an UD3 Rev 1.2 with an FX 8320.

just want to double check i have got the temps correct from HWmonitor, is it as it states on the first page on this thread

TMPIN0 = system temp = 30°C
TMPIN1 = CPU Temp = 39° C
TMPIN2 = NB Temp = 61°C

so far I'm at 4.5GHz with the temps stated (under load), what should I try to keep the Nb temps to a maximum of?


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carlosmans*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have just got an UD3 Rev 1.2 with an FX 8320.
> 
> just want to double check i have got the temps correct from HWmonitor, is it as it states on the first page on this thread
> 
> TMPIN0 = system temp = 30°C
> TMPIN1 = CPU Temp = 39° C
> TMPIN2 = NB Temp = 61°C
> 
> so far I'm at 4.5GHz with the temps stated (under load), what should I try to keep the Nb temps to a maximum of?


According to the failsauce Gigabyte Tech Support is "fine" until 80C.


----------



## Carlosmans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> According to the failsauce Gigabyte Tech Support is "fine" until 80C.


Ok thanks just wanted to make sure its ok at 60°c


----------



## thirsty4more

Anyone has news of bios for 990fxa ud3 rev 3.0 with apm ?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Still nothing. So far the Beta with the APM option isn't solving the issue anyhow.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Still nothing. So far the Beta with the APM option isn't solving the issue anyhow.


I've been in a constant tech support chat with them for almost 4 months now. They have pretty much given me the same **** over and over again.

"Overclocking can't be guaranteed" even though it's their blatantly awful UEFI bios that is holding my CPU back from overclocking.









On top of that, they show me screenshots of their own test with them overclocking to 4.6 GHz in OCCT for an entire hour! Jesus, I am so angry. Words don't describe the incredible frustration I am having right now.


----------



## thirsty4more

Same here, thought I scored an awesome deal on a 990fx motherboard. Even bought an h80i as I was expecting much better overclock than my old motherboard. Turns out my 50$ 970 asrock extreme3 did the job rly well apart from the poor vrms. Really bad image about gigabyte right now.


----------



## NBAasDOGG

Hey guys,
I have a little weird question, but where can i find the ref version of my UD5, without starting the pc?
Can i find it on the box, or somewhere on the mobo?

Thx


----------



## itomic

What u r after for, revision or ??


----------



## unknown601

Hi guys i have a problem with my load voltage.I have overclocked it in the bios and set the voltage to 1.425 and at load it goes to 1.472. how do i fix the voltage at 1.425?

No load



Load






  


                    


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> Hi guys i have a problem with my load voltage.I have overclocked it in the bios and set the voltage to 1.425 and at load it goes to 1.472. how do i fix the voltage at 1.425?
> 
> No load
> 
> 
> 
> Load
> 
> 
> 
> That's 1 of the problems my friend encountered oc'ng his Phenom2 x2 555be a throttling vcore and load voltage. Setting you're LLC to normal might fix the problem and setting the values to its default rather auto settings. eg. ( nb voltage 1.100v - Auto ) disabling CnQ, C1E, C6. might help.=)


----------



## itomic

Answer is LLC, look it in your BIOS.


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NBAasDOGG*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have a little weird question, but where can i find the ref version of my UD5, without starting the pc?
> Can i find it on the box, or somewhere on the mobo?
> 
> Thx


to the left of the last pci/e slot on the mother board, near the edge.


----------



## unknown601

I can't find it in my bios where would it be?


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> I can't find it in my bios where would it be?


Its in the Advance voltage settings/ Vcore Load Line Calibration


----------



## ajs2294

Hey guys,

I'm new here on the forum and just got this board in the mail yesterday. Ran into an issue already, how do I switch off Auto CPU control in the bios so I can start to O/C?

I'm sure this question gets asked a lot (unless I'm just that stupid -.- lol) but I couldn't find a quick way to search for an answer.

Thanks in advance,
-Alex


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

What revision board are you using? Page up/down should do it on Rev 3


----------



## karupt

How many 4 pin headers does the UD3 have?


----------



## Leokul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *billy66bare*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> You /should/ be able to. Usually in the setup of the RAID (you should do it before you install your OS) it will ask which disks you want to include. You can just pick your 4 other disks. Your SSD should just run like any other drive at that point. If you already have your hardware just plug in your drives, go into the BIOS and set the HDD's to RAID, and save and exit. After the BIOS screen you should get a prompt to hit a button to enter the RAID setup. After that just go out and buy a $400 RAID card. Totally kidding,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I feel your pain.
> 
> Feel free to post back with any questions.


Thanks for the info and help dude =)
After doing a ton more research, I decided on doing a FlexRAID setup and so far it's been suuuuper easy and performing like a champ.


----------



## hurricane28

hey dudes,

i have some weird thing going on maybe some one knows whats going on here.

i have 8350 now and i oc to 5ghz with h100i cooler and get some good temps, but yesterday i was getting blue screens and the temps were skyrocketing all of a suddan i go like ***?! right, so i hit the bios and set it back and than i could not run 4.8ghz anymore and i could not boot in to windows :S

very strange, also i get some weird reading from my chip too like the voltage is jumping around and the HT link everything is jumping around in CPU-Z its not much tho but enough for me to realize there is something not quite well here.

so if anyone has any idea i would gladly hear it.


----------



## Fordox

pump died on the h100i?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> pump died on the h100i?


no it is still running i don't get it what the problem could be.

i had it stable and tested it and it works all fine until yesterday i get blue screens and could not boot etc.

some said it could be the mobo but i couldn't see anything wrong with it. i guess it is the chip i fried I'm afraid.


----------



## bond32

What voltage did you put to the 8350? My 6300 ran fine at 5 ghz but needed 1.64 volts.


----------



## SpykeZ

Well I got my new UD5 up and running, still haven't heard back from Gigabyte about my UD3. On a side note, I'm a bit mad at them, the heatsinks on the UD5 are absolutely amazing, hell they even used a proper retention system on them like on the back of a GPU bracket, instead of those ******ed spring plastic clip things used on the UD3 that still allow it to wobble around. Letting it break in a bit before I start pushing the clocks again.


----------



## hurricane28

i want another motherboard man,

but i don't know what is the best choise.

i am now on UD3 but i really like the UD5 because of its good heat sinks and the esthetics of them because i have a blue theme.

also i think its a better overclocker right?

also i like the asrock 990fx extreme4

and msi gd80 is nice as well, what would be the best to buy? i want the best overclocks and i don't care what the board cost.

also if i go with the UD5 what revision should i get? i heared some weird thing about the rev.1.0 and with the UD3 rev. 1.2 and 3.0


----------



## SpykeZ

Stay away from MSI. They don't (last I knew) use any power protection after the VRMs like most others do which can screw up your CPU. The UD5 has an extra mosfet, choke and 2 caps, while having beefier heatsinks. So ya, it'd be a bit better for overclocking.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Stay away from MSI. They don't (last I knew) use any power protection after the VRMs like most others do which can screw up your CPU. The UD5 has an extra mosfet, choke and 2 caps, while having beefier heatsinks. So ya, it'd be a bit better for overclocking.


aha oke, so what would be the best board to buy than? the UD5 or the asrock? i heard that asrock is pretty good as well.

but i like both LOL


----------



## MadGoat

giga or asus for OC or go home....


----------



## bond32

So I just got the UD3 put in and everything runs fine but only on default. I cannot seem to get my ram to run at its speed when all I do is set the ram multi to 2133 and set the clocks manually. Won't boot. I disabled all the power saving crap as well as set all voltages manually. Any ideas?

Edit: nvm its my stupid graphics card. 9/10 reboots I can't enter the bios and I get no video once I start changing things. Def returning it.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> aha oke, so what would be the best board to buy than? the UD5 or the asrock? i heard that asrock is pretty good as well.
> 
> but i like both LOL


Asrock has come a long way but it depends on how far you want to OC it. If you're going to go above average for OC's, I'd get the UD5. People here like the Sabertooth or the other one that I can't recall because they went overboard on the VRMs which basically means you can rape the board. I however will never order another Asus since every time I ever did I had to RMA it at least once to get a working board, and the last straw was on AM2 when I had to RMA the boards 3 times before I got a working on. I've been with Gigabyte ever since and never a single issue.

The VRMs on the UD3 can go up to I think 300watts on the CPU. I had 1.583 volts on my 8350 @ 5.2GHz stable until the vrms got so hot they fried lol. That's pretty impressive for how much power I was pushing. DO NOT go above 1.55 on the UD3. The cooler is small, sucks at cooling and just can't handle the stress.


----------



## hurricane28

aha oke thnx for your reply









i think i fried the board already LOL i had voltage of 1.6 and temps of 81 on my 8350 so i think the board died.

also i got some wierd things yesterday like a lot of blue screens and i could not boot in windows because of the OC

even when i put it on 1.500 and 4.8 i could not boot and get blue screen also my vcore and temps are bouncing around so i guess the board was bad luck because it did that from the beginning.

now i am stable at 4.5 and get 50C so thats is way to much for this OC because i was getting before on 5ghz like 55 a 60C on my h100i

but it can be the chip but i think it is the motherboard, but also i could not see any damage to the board so it is hard to say what the problem is or the board or the chip is fried. and that is what i try to find out.


----------



## hurricane28

oke i wan't to buy the UD5 i simply love the gigabyte boards because mine was mostly all stable and i find it the best looking board for the AMD section.

but what revision should i get?


----------



## bond32

I had the ASRock 990fx extreme 4. Just got the UD3 in today and it is much better. LLC did not work at all on the ASRock.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I had the ASRock 990fx extreme 4. Just got the UD3 in today and it is much better. LLC did not work at all on the ASRock.


oke, i see that u get stable 5ghz by me it is bouncing back an forth very annoying and i think it is the board or could it be my chip that is not good?


----------



## billy66bare

The old 980 and below AMD MSI boards had bad VRM's. There's an entire thread out there about it and MSI's response when mine almost burnt down my whole rig was "Whatever.". I had the same problem with the ASUS that the MSI replaced, too. One had sound issues and was RMA'd , they sent me one that's SATA ports died after 2 days so it got RMA'd, then they sent one that was so warped securing the bottom of the board would have probably broken it. The final one I ran for a few weeks then sold to a buddy to buy the MSI 980-G65, that tried to burn down my house after a few months. *sigh*

The UD5 was an excellent board, IMO. I had it over 1.7 VCORE during suicide runs and it just hummed. The only reason I ditched it was the clipping mechanism on the PCIe slots where almost impossible to get to, and one broke during a tear down.


----------



## bond32

Is there anything out there that makes getting into the bios easy? This board is really pissing me off... The ud3. Seems there is a tiny window where you hit delete; if too early, nothing happens. Too late, goes straight to windows. ***


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> oke i wan't to buy the UD5 i simply love the gigabyte boards because mine was mostly all stable and i find it the best looking board for the AMD section.
> 
> but what revision should i get?


No earlier than 1.1 which added LLC. Rev 3.0 added the UEFI bios. Forgot what 1.2 did


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> No earlier than 1.1 which added LLC. Rev 3.0 added the UEFI bios. Forgot what 1.2 did


Ok so rev. 3.0 is the one to go or should i get with the 1.1? And what is the biggest difference between ud3 of ud5?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ok so rev. 3.0 is the one to go or should i get with the 1.1? And what is the biggest difference between ud3 of ud5?


UD5 has mroe PCIe for video cards, BEEFIER heatsinks for the northbridge and VRMs as well as a couple more capacitors for the vrms, and I think I read it has a couple more chokes and 2 extra VRMs?

Anyone know if there software that can monitor the VRM temps?


----------



## bond32

I'm pretty bumed about this UD3 board. I was really excited after seeing all the positive reviews of it. From first turning it on its an absolute hassle and headache to simply get into the bios. Its a complete hit or miss if I can get in and delete has to be pressed at literally the perfect moment. This makes for a nightmare with overclocking.

I guess I just got a defect maybe. One minute I had it running stable at 4.8 gig next I can't even get back into the bios, clear cmos, anything. After further reading I see all this mess about "HPC" mode and having to set your clocks, reboot, then re-enable HPC? That is total nonsense if that is whats required just to overclock.

Sorry if I am ranting just was really excited to get this board in and running well but its absolute garbage. I can't do anything except run the defaults then reboot. I will be sending this back and guess I will have to get the sabertooth.


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

I think you might be over thinking it.
I just spam the Delete key while its booting and get in every time.

One thing i have noticed is i can get away with not spamming the Delete key until after the lights come on in my keyboard.
So sometimes i wait until i see the keyboard light up then i start spamming the Delete key.


----------



## SpykeZ

Bios have always been like that and can depend on your video card when it wants to send the video signal. Turn power on, see keyboard lights turn on, hit DEL until you get in. Really isn't any different from any other motherboard out there.


----------



## karupt

Hey guys how is the fan control feature in easytune 6? some reviews on the ud3 said it had only 2 control points, have they changed that or anything?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SvenTheBerserK*
> 
> I think you might be over thinking it.
> I just spam the Delete key while its booting and get in every time.
> 
> One thing i have noticed is i can get away with not spamming the Delete key until after the lights come on in my keyboard.
> So sometimes i wait until i see the keyboard light up then i start spamming the Delete key.


Believe me I've tried that many times. If you hit delete at the wrong time, nothing happens and windows doesn't even boot.

Didn't have any issues like this with the Asrock extreme 4, same video card. I really wanted to pike this board but I'm not about to keep it if it requires absolutely perfect timing just to enter bios.


----------



## bond32

Ok so I didn't give up on this board yet. Woke up and decided I would keep trying with it. Despite it being a huge pain in the ass, I actually have 4920 MHz stable. Bumped it up to 5 ghz and im testing stability now. Voltage is 1.572 V idle and that goes to 1.6 under load which is high, so I won't increase that anymore. Temps are fine, although I am going to try to get a thermocouple on the VRM heatsink this week if I keep this board to see what it gets to.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2769677

Edit again: If I keep this board this is my stable 24/7 overclock: http://valid.canardpc.com/2769732

Temps never get over 48 C with the kraken x60 and my custom fan profile.


----------



## hurricane28

i can't get the rev. 1.1 or 3.0 here in Holland :S

that really sucks man.

i will search better but well see.

also i would like to try the UD7 but what i see there is no or very little difference between the UD5 or UD7 so i don't see reason for getting the UD7
it is 60 euro's more so i go with the UD5 or is the UD7 much better?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> i can't get the rev. 1.1 or 3.0 here in Holland :S
> 
> that really sucks man.
> 
> i will search better but well see.
> 
> also i would like to try the UD7 but what i see there is no or very little difference between the UD5 or UD7 so i don't see reason for getting the UD7
> it is 60 euro's more so i go with the UD5 or is the UD7 much better?


They don't just charge more for a board for no reason. Again, even beefier heatsinks with a heatpipe going to the southbridge to offload more heat. More beefier PCIe slots. Only reason to get the UD7 is if you're oging to run a ton of video cards


----------



## thirsty4more

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Ok so I didn't give up on this board yet. Woke up and decided I would keep trying with it. Despite it being a huge pain in the ass, I actually have 4920 MHz stable. Bumped it up to 5 ghz and im testing stability now. Voltage is 1.572 V idle and that goes to 1.6 under load which is high, so I won't increase that anymore. Temps are fine, although I am going to try to get a thermocouple on the VRM heatsink this week if I keep this board to see what it gets to.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2769677
> 
> Edit again: If I keep this board this is my stable 24/7 overclock: http://valid.canardpc.com/2769732
> 
> Temps never get over 48 C with the kraken x60 and my custom fan profile.


You mind sharing the hpc trick needed to keep it stable ? Trying to overclock my 8120 with this rev 3 board . It somehow throttles down to 7x/1400mhz while stress test from what ever overclock I set ( when hpc enabled ) could it be due to temps ? They are all under 45 degrees at 4.4ghz/1.428v according to hwmonitor. Thanks !


----------



## SpykeZ

You sure you got all the throttling options off? There's like 3-4 of them.


----------



## hurricane28

ok i order the board tomorrow.

also what would break first the CPU or the motherboard? i mean at first i could get to 5ghz but now i can't anymore because i had too much voltage and the temps were like 82C all of a sudden, i can't see nothing on the board really like black spots or something. could my CPU fried as well? and how do i know this?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thirsty4more*
> 
> You mind sharing the hpc trick needed to keep it stable ? Trying to overclock my 8120 with this rev 3 board . It somehow throttles down to 7x/1400mhz while stress test from what ever overclock I set ( when hpc enabled ) could it be due to temps ? They are all under 45 degrees at 4.4ghz/1.428v according to hwmonitor. Thanks !


There are several of us experiencing this issue. Gigabyte issued a beta BIOS to a user, a few of us have tried it with no luck. I feel it is VRM related.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> You sure you got all the throttling options off? There's like 3-4 of them.


The Rev 3 boards throttle like hell. Quite a few of us have been battling this issue for some time now with no luck.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> ok i order the board tomorrow.
> 
> also what would break first the CPU or the motherboard? i mean at first i could get to 5ghz but now i can't anymore because i had too much voltage and the temps were like 82C all of a sudden, i can't see nothing on the board really like black spots or something. could my CPU fried as well? and how do i know this?


There is a very good chance the CPU is dead. Only way to test it, is to put it in a known working motherboard.


----------



## hurricane28

i have new cpu now and tomorrow i get my new UD5 rev. 1.1 instead of the 3.0









hope that works better for me from now on. fingers crossed hehe


----------



## ajs2294

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> What revision board are you using? Page up/down should do it on Rev 3


Thank you I forgot to try the page up/down keys. Was hitting arrows and trying to click without any luck lol....Now to have some fun O/Cing my 6300


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

You should be able to push the 6300 pretty hard. It seems that only the 8XX0 series seem to throttle. Its what makes me believe its VRM issues some of us are seeing.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> There are several of us experiencing this issue. Gigabyte issued a beta BIOS to a user, a few of us have tried it with no luck. I feel it is VRM related.
> The Rev 3 boards throttle like hell. Quite a few of us have been battling this issue for some time now with no luck.


Yup, really wish they would release something and stop giving the runaround....


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Honestly I don't think there is any software/firmware they can release that's going to fix it. If its VRM, whether its temperatures or to much power draw, no BIOS will fix it.


----------



## MadGoat

its bios,

I have a 1.0 and no throttling issues...


----------



## hurricane28

hey fellas,

i have the UD5 now









i must say it is pretty good and i can get lower voltages on my 5ghz overclock and still be stable









what i wanted to know is: how much can the NB voltage be? i set it to 2500 and voltage to 1.4120 is that enough or is that too high?
also what is temperature 3? in HWinfo? that is my vrm right? and how hot is save for it?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> its bios,
> 
> I have a 1.0 and no throttling issues...


We hope thats the case. They claim its APM mode. I can turn off APM mode without the BIOS and it still throttles. However if I add a fan in the VRM area I can postpone the throttling. It doesn't eliminate it but it takes longer before it starts to happen. I need to pull the board back out peel that thermal sticky pad off put paste on the VRM's and clamp the heatsink down with bolts and see what happens. However I haven't found the time to do that.


----------



## hurricane28

Can someone help me please?

i still have the CPU trotting, i have the new gigabyte 990FXA UD5 rev. 1.1

i overclock it to 5ghz with no problem and the temps are great as well voltage is set to 1.520 and it is stable and the temps are 55C at max load.

but when i do open CPU-Z the multipliers are all over the place even under load, i set the multiplier to x20 times 250 Bus speed is 5ghz

when i set it to stock i have the same issue like the core speed is fluctuating between 5000/4999.69 and it is keep doing that, i getting irritated by that because when i set it to 5ghz it should show it like that.

also i disabled the trotting stuff in the bios like Cool n quiet, C6, APM, i set the load line control to high.

when i did some benchmarks on 3d mark 11 i had the CPU set to 5ghz but it is shown as 4.999 why is that and how can i stop this annoying thing?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

a .5mhz fluctuation is not throttling. Throttling is when the board cuts voltage and the multiplier drops to 7x. Example my board throttles, the CPU goes from 4400 to 1540mhz an my voltage drops. What you are experiencing is completely normal. The clock generator experiences these small changes all the time. Everyone experiences this.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> a .5mhz fluctuation is not throttling. Throttling is when the board cuts voltage and the multiplier drops to 7x. Example my board throttles, the CPU goes from 4400 to 1540mhz an my voltage drops. What you are experiencing is completely normal. The clock generator experiences these small changes all the time. Everyone experiences this.


oke thnx dude.

i called gigabyte as well and they don't know it either and said it is normal and i have to accept that it is fluctuating.

good to know so i will accept it now.

also what is the highest temp for the NB and VRM? because i burned my other board LOL

so i certainly don't want to burn this board. also i have a fan sitting on my GPU cooling the NB as well and the heat sinks on the UD5 are bigger and better than my other UD3 board so i hope this will prevent it from overheating.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I believe the NB is 80C. The VRMs I'm not sure of. Put a decent fan blowing on the VRM to be safe.


----------



## hurricane28

ok thnx

i will place a fan on it all just to make sure it stays nice and cool.

also i was lucky because i did not know that the UD5 and the UD3 have the same drivers so i do not need to reinstall windows again luckily.

do you have some news about your trotting issues yet? and why don't you exchange it for rev. 1.1?

i mean i had problems and i get to the store and say that it is no good and i get my money back or get another revision or some solution to solve it.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

No still no fix yet. I'd rather have my machine than wait on another board. I'll replace it when I get the the money, then eBay this piece of junk.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Greetings AMD-ers!
I'm just now putting together my new build, (GA-990FXA-UD3). AND I do plan to "OC the B" so I got a strong feeling I'll be regular here. Already had my first question answered about "loose NB heat sink". Tomorrow I'll be going for first boot up, as soon as I pull the board out again and secure that flippin heat-sink... 12 hour shifts don't leave a lot of time for building so I had to do it in stages. That and this heat sink thing was actually the least of 3 set-backs. The back-panel face plate and mobo ports were off by just enough to stop the show, then the "agp-like" hook on the back of my video card was too big and prevented the board from seating. Both overcome. Then the RAM I ordered turned out to have been "order canceled" which I only found out by CALLING, (no not Newegg) but luckily I have spare RAM....
I thought buying a nice new case (Zalman MS800) would make this build a breeze.... PSYCH!!!







oh well... the price we pay to play!


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I believe the NB is 80C. The VRMs I'm not sure of. Put a decent fan blowing on the VRM to be safe.


.

Somewhere in this thread someone said Gigabyte told a member here that 80C max for VRM's


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> .
> 
> Somewhere in this thread someone said Gigabyte told a member here that 80C max for VRM's


I don't know I would trust Gigabytes word on that. When I tried talking with their tech support I was left feeling I could have learned more from a Bing search.


----------



## aquagene

So I've been reading this thread and there's some stuff I'd like to add, for the sake of conversation and maybe helping a few people.

I'm running a GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev.3 and an FX-8350 with no throttling, and the newest bios (FC). I'm not quite sure if I'm just lucky, but I'm running a server 24/7 and the CPU dynamically adjusts correctly with the load, low load, and it'll drop down to 1400mhz or so, once it picks up it goes to 4200mhz and stays there until load drops again. If I turn off C1E, it stays at 4000mhz, and goes to 4200mhz if it has the thermal overhead to do so (I run liquid cooling, so it's almost always at 4200mhz).

For those having issues with this board and the FX-8350 hitting full turbo speed (4200mhz) I wracked my head searching everywhere for a solution, the CPU would hit the 4118mhz (20.5x) but never any higher. For curiousity's sake I installed Easytune6, went to the Tuner section, hit Advance, made sure CPB Ratio was at 21.0, then hit set. Ever since then full turbo works just as expected, hitting 4200mhz flat. I noticed that doing this also corrected all my other frequencies and set them to exactly what they should be. Before they were all about 20mhz faster than they were set, Easytune6 set em right on the dot correct with 1mhz fluctuations.

To be honest I was surprised, always read ET6 was a terrible app.

One last thing, anyone have the voltage readings for this motherboard be completely off with most windows apps (HWmonitor, aida64, etc)? Only Bios and ET6 shows the correct rail voltages, everything else shows my 12v rail at 10v, my 5v rail at 3v, etc.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Go run 8 threads of Prime95 and see what happens. Mine is dynamically adjusting to load as well, when I have Cool&Quiet enabled.

It won't throttle with only a few cores loaded. I haven't even seen it throttle with 7 cores loaded. Only at a full 100% 8 core load does it happen. To be honest I haven't seen any FX or Thuban 6 core users have any throttling only us guys with FX 8 cores.


----------



## aquagene

Odd, did some testing, and that throttling only occurs in Prime95. IBT and AIDA64's Stability Test (CPU/FPU/Cache) heats up the cpu and vrm way more than prime for me, 8 thread 100% usage, and it never throttles. Odd, not sure if this would ever be noticable in regular pc usage though to be honest. I didn't even happen when I did bitcoin mining for curiosity's sake (similar mathematical stress as Prime, 8 separate threads running 100%).


----------



## ajs2294

Just curious, anyways to speed up bios boot time on this board? I may have overlooked any obvious ways and I'm sitting at 16.5 seconds, would like a bit quicker if possible...


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquagene*
> 
> Odd, did some testing, and that throttling only occurs in Prime95. IBT and AIDA64's Stability Test (CPU/FPU/Cache) heats up the cpu and vrm way more than prime for me, 8 thread 100% usage, and it never throttles. Odd, not sure if this would ever be noticable in regular pc usage though to be honest. I didn't even happen when I did bitcoin mining for curiosity's sake (similar mathematical stress as Prime, 8 separate threads running 100%).


Its strange. I can't stability test really, not with Prime throttling. I can pass IBT and fail Prime or vice versa. I like to have both programs stable before I'm happy with my OC. If Prime is throttling there is no way to tell if its stable.


----------



## Fordox

I find it odd that the ud3 board has had no BIOS update in 4 months... it is still on f10a beta.


----------



## Warped Trekker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> I find it odd that the ud3 board has had no BIOS update in 4 months... it is still on f10a beta.


Not odd for Gigabyte. The UD3 was the third GB board ive owned and all three had a "beta" bios as their last released bios. My UD3 board was so buggy especially after flashing both backup and primary bios to f10a. It started not reading all memory and then poof, it went out. Im currently in an RMA process with them. In the meantime I bought an Asus sabertooth 990fx gen3 r2.0 board. Gigabyte doesnt even have a graphical UEFI bios. Also the UD3 bios setings sometimes wouldnt stick. in uefi mode you have to put cdrom as first boot device which is really weird.


----------



## CaelThunderwing

stupid Question. a Friend just bought the UD3 board But was told by Newegg live chat it "should" ship w/ latest bios( and this could be a prob if they boldface lied.) as he went ahead and bought the Vishera based FX8300

if it isnt using F9 (or F8Beta) will the board "dummy it down" till he has a chance to flash it to F9? (they confirmed atleast its Revsion 3.0 for the board)


----------



## KnownDragon

http://valid.canardpc.com/2774649

Stability isn't a hundred percent prime threw a error on core 1 after 4 hours. But stable enough to move on to the next set of clock for me. I run the ga-fxa-ud3 rev 3 with a Phenom II x6 1055t. I have shut down two cores to gain stability. Kuhler 620 Liquid cooling. this forum has helped me get past some minor bumps on the way. I have only been doing this about a week now.


----------



## aquagene

Here's a view of the voltage discrepancy I'm getting. the left side is HWmonitor (Aida64 and pretty much any other monitoring software I've seen shows the same odd voltages), and the right is Easytune6. I'd guess Easytune6 is correct, but it seems odd, as if the sensor was shot, all voltages should be off.

Edit: I realized how Easytune was able to force 4200 turbo, it changes the p1 state (which is normally 20.5x) to 21x. The 990fxa-ud3 seems to prevent my fx8350 from ever going into p0 (legitimate 21x). Really wishing I had just bought another board, the amount of uncertainties with this $140 bucks worth of metal is giving me quite the headache.

Edit 2: Ran some test after uninstalling Easytune. Using AMD PScheck, my fx8350 does go into p0, just very rarely, and so quickly that most apps like CPU-Z don't update in time to show it. From some videos I've seen it should be happening WAY more. Apparently some Asus boards have this problem as well.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yeah Hardware monitor on mine displays voltages almost identical to yours. I've disabled turbo mode on mine. Even at stock speeds with turbo enabled it throttled like crazy. It would jump to 4.1ghz then to 1200mhz then jump back to 4.0 to 4.1 then back to 1200. Kind of defeats the purpose of turbo lol


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So this morning I pulled both the NB and the VRM heatsinks. I removed the little sticky pad from the VRM and applied MX-2 paste to all of them and reapplied the heatsink with nuts and bolts eliminating the terrible plastic pins. On the NB I had already applied MX-2 but I cleaned it up reapplied MX-2 and secured that heatsink with nuts and bolts as well.

So now that the sinks are properly fastened guess what!? Absolutely no change, if anything it throttles faster than it did before! I'm officially done with this board. Gigabyte won't be getting another penny from this guy. I think I'll either be going with the Sabertooth or CHV.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So this morning I pulled both the NB and the VRM heatsinks. I removed the little sticky pad from the VRM and applied MX-2 paste to all of them and reapplied the heatsink with nuts and bolts eliminating the terrible plastic pins. On the NB I had already applied MX-2 but I cleaned it up reapplied MX-2 and secured that heatsink with nuts and bolts as well.
> 
> So now that the sinks are properly fastened guess what!? Absolutely no change, if anything it throttles faster than it did before! I'm officially done with this board. Gigabyte won't be getting another penny from this guy. I think I'll either be going with the Sabertooth or CHV.


you have the wrong revision i had the ud3 with no problems now i have the UD5 and its even better, also asus is not the best at the boards because they have problems too and they are too expensive for 990FX board.

if i were you i would go with UD5 rev. 1.1 like me and ur troubles are over


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So this morning I pulled both the NB and the VRM heatsinks. I removed the little sticky pad from the VRM and applied MX-2 paste to all of them and reapplied the heatsink with nuts and bolts eliminating the terrible plastic pins. On the NB I had already applied MX-2 but I cleaned it up reapplied MX-2 and secured that heatsink with nuts and bolts as well.
> 
> So now that the sinks are properly fastened guess what!? Absolutely no change, if anything it throttles faster than it did before! I'm officially done with this board. Gigabyte won't be getting another penny from this guy. I think I'll either be going with the Sabertooth or CHV.


Yeah I wish I had the money to buy a ASUS board, or a time machine to tell my past self that Gigabyte isn't the way to go for motherboards. It wouldn't be so bad if they would fix critical issues like that with some sort of speed, I'm starting to doubt we will ever get a fix.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So after messing with it a bit, I determined it was in fact throttling way sooner. So I pulled the board back out. I pulled the VRM heatsink and guess what I seen? I seen that only the outside VRM's were making contact with the heatsink. There was only compound on the heatsink from the 2 outermost VRM's on each side. Interesting. The only thing that can cause this is either the heatsink is bent or the board is warped. So I got to investigating. Well the heatsink is flat. My board however was very bowed. I'm surprised I didn't notice before!

I went about trying to flatten the board. Very carefully obviously. I was able to get some of the bow out. I went ahead and put the sticky pad back in instead of MX-2. It obviously needs the extra "padding" to make contact. I still used my nuts and bolts to secure everything. The result you ask? It goes MUCH MUCH longer now without throttling. Sadly I wish I could say I solved it, but I didn't. It eventually still throttles.

However this proves that it is a VRM heat issue. If you other guys having the issue don't mind, take your board out and see if its bowed. I think you may be surprised. I'm not sure how we are going to solve it though, (well I still plan on getting an Asus board lol). We can't get rid of the heat without good contact on the VRM. We aren't going to be able to do that if the board is bowed without that crappy thermal pad. I'm thinking that maybe with some thermal glue and small heatsinks placed on the VRM's in groups of 4 may be the answer. That may eliminate the effects of the board being bowed because each sink can sit only only a few VRMs as opposed to trying to cover them all.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Yeah I wish I had the money to buy a ASUS board, or a time machine to tell my past self that Gigabyte isn't the way to go for motherboards. It wouldn't be so bad if they would fix critical issues like that with some sort of speed, I'm starting to doubt we will ever get a fix.


I really don't think we are going to get a fix. The software won't be able to fix what I found unfortunately







See my last post. It looks to be hardware.


----------



## aquagene

I was doing some research, GB knows about this problem, but they have no plans to fix it as it "only occurs when overclocking". I'm not overclocking and I get VRM throttling with prime... Wish I had the spare cash to buy a better board. Be mindful with the Asus boards when you choose one, btw, some of theirs have the same issues.


----------



## Moomaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Believe me I've tried that many times. If you hit delete at the wrong time, nothing happens and windows doesn't even boot.
> 
> Didn't have any issues like this with the Asrock extreme 4, same video card. I really wanted to pike this board but I'm not about to keep it if it requires absolutely perfect timing just to enter bios.


I am having the exact same issues as your are having. Do you have any tips on the best way to get my money back for this heap of junk? (first time dealing with motherboard issues)


----------



## hurricane28

i don't know how it is in the US but when i don't like the product i can go back to the store and if they don't accept is i will fill in a complaint









a lot of stores here don't have much knowledge about the hardware so we need to look better to get some knowledge and good stuff.

i heard u have the same thing in America and the warranty must be the same like here, also if i look those prices over there it is really cheap compare to Holland.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquagene*
> 
> I was doing some research, GB knows about this problem, but they have no plans to fix it as it "only occurs when overclocking". I'm not overclocking and I get VRM throttling with prime... Wish I had the spare cash to buy a better board. Be mindful with the Asus boards when you choose one, btw, some of theirs have the same issues.


My board is bowed. The heatsink isn't making very good contact with the thermal pad on the VRM's. I've gotten it a bit better but not much. Its unacceptable really.


----------



## Moomaster

So after perusing the many threads about people having issues with the 990FXA-UD3 and possible fixes that people may have for the very annoying frequency drops that plague this board when OCing, I found something that worked for me.

I went from the 'FC' BIOS version the the 'FB' BIOS version and made sure all power saving options were disabled. LLC set to Extreme. I had good luck with the Auto voltage feature, but that may not work best for everyone. Now the most important part is to turn off AMD's core boost feature, I suspect it was messing with the frequencies when put under load.

Once I completely disabled the boost (turbo) feature, the issues went away completely until I got to a 4.8 GHz OC. Not bad I think for people like me who were having difficulties even at stock speeds.

Hope this helps somebody out there, and happy OCing gents.


----------



## Persephon

Do you guys know which watercooling sli bridge I'll need to run sli in the two PCIEX16 slots? My motherboard is still on the way to me so I can't measure myself. I wanted to go ahead and order the sli bridge so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

It all depends on which motherboard and GeForce GPUs you're going to be running. I do know that Koolance makes several GPU radiators exclusively for GTX cards, but currently they only make them for the 680, 690, and Titan, and I would assume that there are other companies that make GPU radiators for GTX cards, but I'm not sure. You can always check to see at the Koolance forums to see if anyone there would know more...

http://forums.koolance.com/index.php


----------



## Persephon

Sorry I forgot to include this info.

Motherboard: GA-FX990-UD7
GFX Cards: GTX 670


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

ONCE AGAIN, GREETINGS O' Wise Ones! Hey I'm sure this answer is on this thread somewhere amongst the 5000+ posts,
anyway.... hopefully y'all won't be too perturbed if this is like a really old question.... at least it's "on topic"?

OK here we go, I'm looking for the consensus stable OC settings for my new build.
GA-990FXA-UD3, (rev 3.0 I think)
FX-6100 proc
Currently the memory is Ripjaws 1.6v PC3-17000 2X2gb, but I'm still waiting on:
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800.
Sapphire Radeon HD6670 Ultimate 1GB DDR5

I'm not at home right now so I can't give you specifics on the BIOS version, but it just shipped about two weeks ago from Tiger.

The RAM is already tweaked to Profile-1 down one from the default multiplier (1860 I think, Turbo on) and it seems pretty happy with that.
Right now I have (dual boot) Windows 7 on SSD booting from ice-cold to doughnut-vanish in 36-37 seconds, and XP on IDE-platter-drive
booting (including POST) in 44-46 seconds.

Both have all their drivers, (chipset excet) but W7 is yet to be updated, as shipped about 2 years ago if that matters.

I've nosed around the bios enough to know there's no "one-click-auto-OC-fast-faster-extreme" setting, it looks like it's gonna be all manual.
Sooo..... what say o' wise ones, am in the right place?

What can you tell me and/or what else do you need to know?

Thanks in advance...


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

ONCE AGAIN, GREETINGS O' Wise Ones! Hey I'm sure this answer is on this thread somewhere amongst the 5000+ posts,
anyway.... hopefully y'all won't be too perturbed if this is like a really old question.... at least it's "on topic"?

OK here we go, I'm looking for the consensus stable OC settings for my new build.
GA-990FXA-UD3, (rev 3.0 I think)
FX-6100 proc
Currently the memory is Ripjaws 1.6v PC3-17000 2X2gb, but I'm still waiting on:
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800.
Sapphire Radeon HD6670 Ultimate 1GB DDR5

I'm not at home right now so I can't give you specifics on the BIOS version, but it just shipped about two weeks ago from Tiger.

The RAM is already tweaked to Profile-1 down one from the default multiplier (1860 I think, Turbo on) and it seems pretty happy with that.
Right now I have (dual boot) Windows 7 on SSD booting from ice-cold to doughnut-vanish in 36-37 seconds, and XP on IDE-platter-drive
booting (including POST) in 44-46 seconds.

Both have all their drivers, (chipset excet) but W7 is yet to be updated, as shipped about 2 years ago if that matters.

I've nosed around the bios enough to know there's no "one-click-auto-OC-fast-faster-extreme" setting, it looks like it's gonna be all manual.
Sooo..... what say o' wise ones, am in the right place?

What can you tell me and/or what else do you need to know?

Thanks in advance...


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

so far I've only had to clear the CMOS once. Speaking of which, I had to supply my own jumper. Is that typical on this board? No jumper?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Mine didn't come with a jumper either. I use my pocket knife when I need to clear it lol.

With the FX CPU's the easiest way to overclock is using the multiplier. Bump the multiplier up one or two. Then stress test for a few hours, if it passes bump it up another one, if it fails bump voltage up one then test again. Rinse and repeat. Make sure to keep an eye on temps while stress testing. A general CPU overclock is fairly simple and easy to achieve. Its when you start trying to overclock the memory and NB things can start to get complicated.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Thanks man, good starting point...

ACTUALLY OC'ing the memory was not too bad, save the all the advanced features that opened up when I hit "expert". I got no clue what to do with those. With the memory settings I was using if I did something it didn't like the boot would fail and that "enter BIOS and fix it" screen would pop up.

As for the rest, give me a day I'll get back to you. Like I said I'm not at home right now. (long night-shift) I'm assuming one of the GB utilities (I've yet to install any of) will include a Performance/temps monitor of some sort.

So far I have no major complaints with this board. I had to remove and "firm-up" the NB heat-sink but other than that.... so far I'm pretty happy with it... Just went through a nightmare with a moth$%#king 1155 socket so the beauty of the A3+ was pure joy. It makes SOOOO much more sense to have the PINS on the CPU ! ! Not that that's really a kudos-to-gigabyte thing...
KUDOS to A M D. Too bad they can't manage their over all business plan as well as they build hardware....







(IR stock holder)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

correction: A*M*3+


----------



## rsinghtoor

I have an issue with this motherboard. Every time i put the computer to sleep, it never wakes up correctly. Once it is in sleep mode, i hit the power button to wake the computer but the cpu never kicks in. The power light comes on but the computer itself never boots up. So I always have to manually power it off and back on a couple of times.


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Ey guys... I've read this in a thread, It may help solve our problem in throttling. but, I haven't tried it yet...Any news bout tis? AMDMSRTweaker
It says for boards without APM settings.

http://www.brightsideofnews.com/news/2013/4/9/amdmsrtweaker-v11-released2c-trinity-support-inside.aspx


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

You can disable APM with AMD Overdrive. It makes no difference. Especially for me since my board is warped and the VRM heatsink isn't making very good contact with the center VRM chips. I wouldn't be surprised if this is what is causing the issue for others.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> You can disable APM with AMD Overdrive. It makes no difference. Especially for me since my board is warped and the VRM heatsink isn't making very good contact with the center VRM chips. I wouldn't be surprised if this is what is causing the issue for others.


It would be an absolute pain to remove my board to check if it's warped but I don't think it was as I remember looking to see if it was when I first got it and before installing it, as my Sapphie 7950 has one hella warped board on it and it freaked me out and made me paranoid about everything else. Fortunately that was the norm for that particular model and it's performing like a champ.

Guess I might as well bother Gigabyte to see if their people have made a new test BIOS.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Persephon*
> 
> Do you guys know which watercooling sli bridge I'll need to run sli in the two PCIEX16 slots? My motherboard is still on the way to me so I can't measure myself. I wanted to go ahead and order the sli bridge so any help would be appreciated. Thanks!


Here's a few links to frozencpu and a couple of other forums that may be helpful with liquid cooling stuff specifically for your GTX 670s... also if you go to the EK website they have a configurator utility (2nd link) that will help you identify what kind of block/bridge would would with your cards.

http://www.frozencpu.com/search.html?mv_profile=keyword_search&mv_session_id=d8ZktNPq&searchspec=GTX+670+water+cooling&go.x=0&go.y=0

http://www.coolingconfigurator.com/

http://www.overclock.net/t/1255880/reference-gtx-670-water-blocks-are-going-to-be-hillarious/60

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277664-29-water-block

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1693440


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

That _could_ be as much a Windows thing as MOBO. If you're using Win 8 I got nothing for ya there.
ASSUMING Wind0ws 7, I would then ask, how old the current install?
Mobo wise have you dug around the bios? there could be something ON that's conflicting and needs to be OFF, or
something that's not on that needs to be enabled.
Mine wakes up flawlessly, no BIOS diddling required.
Win-7 Ult, SP1, 2 weeks old, clean install.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Mine didn't come with a jumper either. I use my pocket knife when I need to clear it lol.
> 
> With the FX CPU's the easiest way to overclock is using the multiplier. Bump the multiplier up one or two. Then stress test for a few hours, if it passes bump it up another one, if it fails bump voltage up one then test again. Rinse and repeat. Make sure to keep an eye on temps while stress testing. A general CPU overclock is fairly simple and easy to achieve. Its when you start trying to overclock the memory and NB things can start to get complicated.


Hey Ozzman, I'm back, I got momentarily derailed "working highers" O.T. : I was down to 3 days to Activate the W7 and it had to be done by auto-phone method, not simple since I'm in ITALY and the toll free numbers were talking to me in Italian... Then the XP install "lost" the ROM drives, (remember dual-boot?), completely, (gone from device mgr) can you guess what that fix was? (nothing I saw posted on the internet).

Back the MoBo OC. (BIOS is "FA, 23 Oct 2012") When I first got to the CPU multiplier, I didn't get it. Since when you first tick-off from "auto" it STARTS off as WAY-WAY UNDERCLOCK, leading me to believe the mHz number I was seeing was being ADDED TO the default 3.30. For the record it won't boot with 0.80mHz. ONCE I figured that out, my first try was for 3.80, no-go. 3.60, no-go. 3.40 NO-GO!

Since I already HAD the memory OC'd I guessed that might be conflicting my current efforts. Defaulted the mem back to defaults, and tried 3.40 again, And ah-HAH!, Boot-up-ok. Shut it down to time the restart. It went from 36 to now 26 seconds. (ish) But those 2 successful boots were all I got. I tried to nudge the memory back up. (g-skill has the stock voltage as 1.6 and the Mobo "auto" sets it at 1.5) the only way I knew to get that 1.6 was "profile-1" and then pull the freq back one tick to get the 1860 mHz. BOOT FAIL, put the mem back to default settings so it was the way it last worked but now not-so-much. Boot fail. Back to "optimized defaults" ...reboot all good... that's when Advanced Voltage settings caught my eye. I manually set the MEM at 1.6V and changed nothing else. Good boot and when I timed it, I GOT THE SAME 26-27 SECONDS. (from ice-cold including post). Interesting since the CPU was still showing 3.30 and memory 1600. Anyway that's where I've left it for now.

I have a feeling in order for the CPU bump to fly I'm going to have to tweak voltages, (CPU and or NB/SB) any tips on some conservative voltage tweaks?

LASTLY you just said "the multiplier" I assume you meant the CPU multiplier because there's also a "System Multiplier" under the Memory section on the same page.....

Thanks in advance,

GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0
FX-6100 proc
Currently the memory is Ripjaws 1.6v PC3-17000 2X2gb, but I'm still waiting on:
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800.
Sapphire Radeon HD6670 Ultimate 1GB DDR5


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

memory voltage is set to 1.6 but looks like its' actually still showing as 1.5v
SO just for grins I tied (again) kicking the CPU up one tick to 3.4 and it took. At least it booted.
I haven't had time to burn it in. (this is still my old Phenom build I'm on now)


----------



## dizzin9

So I tried OC'ing my fx-6300 to 4.5 and it gets hot really quick on OCCT (64-bit, large data set, threads set to auto). I reached 70C 3 mins into it and i stopped it. This is with CnC OFF and HPC mode ON so I did not experience throttling. I ran a couple of gaming benchmarks and the temps maxed out at around mid-50s.

With CnC ON and HPC mode OFF, the temps max out at 56C and the throttling resumed (OCCT and gaming benchmarks)

Should I just let the CPU throttle and be in the safe temps or ignore the OCCT test and just leave it at 4.5 CnC OFF/HPC ON?

additional info:
vcore = 1.452v
multi = 22.5
cpu fan (max) = 1945 rpm


----------



## Moomaster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Hey Ozzman, I'm back, I got momentarily derailed "working highers" O.T. : I was down to 3 days to Activate the W7 and it had to be done by auto-phone method, not simple since I'm in ITALY and the toll free numbers were talking to me in Italian... Then the XP install "lost" the ROM drives, (remember dual-boot?), completely, (gone from device mgr) can you guess what that fix was? (nothing I saw posted on the internet).
> 
> Back the MoBo OC. (BIOS is "FA, 23 Oct 2012") When I first got to the CPU multiplier, I didn't get it. Since when you first tick-off from "auto" it STARTS off as WAY-WAY UNDERCLOCK, leading me to believe the mHz number I was seeing was being ADDED TO the default 3.30. For the record it won't boot with 0.80mHz. ONCE I figured that out, my first try was for 3.80, no-go. 3.60, no-go. 3.40 NO-GO!
> 
> Since I already HAD the memory OC'd I guessed that might be conflicting my current efforts. Defaulted the mem back to defaults, and tried 3.40 again, And ah-HAH!, Boot-up-ok. Shut it down to time the restart. It went from 36 to now 26 seconds. (ish) But those 2 successful boots were all I got. I tried to nudge the memory back up. (g-skill has the stock voltage as 1.6 and the Mobo "auto" sets it at 1.5) the only way I knew to get that 1.6 was "profile-1" and then pull the freq back one tick to get the 1860 mHz. BOOT FAIL, put the mem back to default settings so it was the way it last worked but now not-so-much. Boot fail. Back to "optimized defaults" ...reboot all good... that's when Advanced Voltage settings caught my eye. I manually set the MEM at 1.6V and changed nothing else. Good boot and when I timed it, I GOT THE SAME 26-27 SECONDS. (from ice-cold including post). Interesting since the CPU was still showing 3.30 and memory 1600. Anyway that's where I've left it for now.
> 
> I have a feeling in order for the CPU bump to fly I'm going to have to tweak voltages, (CPU and or NB/SB) any tips on some conservative voltage tweaks?
> 
> LASTLY you just said "the multiplier" I assume you meant the CPU multiplier because there's also a "System Multiplier" under the Memory section on the same page.....
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0
> FX-6100 proc
> Currently the memory is Ripjaws 1.6v PC3-17000 2X2gb, but I'm still waiting on:
> CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800.
> Sapphire Radeon HD6670 Ultimate 1GB DDR5


Try playing around OCing with the bus speeds. I was reading that a lot of people were having success keeping their memory at the correct speeds only when they upped the bus speeds.


----------



## paulwarden2505

dizzin9 your vcore is a bit high i am hitting 4.6GHz with vcore of 1.4v while folding am not going over 52c try dropping your vcore a little and see if that makes any difference to your temps


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzin9*
> 
> So I tried OC'ing my fx-6300 to 4.5 and it gets hot really quick on OCCT (64-bit, large data set, threads set to auto). I reached 70C 3 mins into it and i stopped it. This is with CnC OFF and HPC mode ON so I did not experience throttling. I ran a couple of gaming benchmarks and the temps maxed out at around mid-50s.
> 
> With CnC ON and HPC mode OFF, the temps max out at 56C and the throttling resumed (OCCT and gaming benchmarks)
> 
> Should I just let the CPU throttle and be in the safe temps or ignore the OCCT test and just leave it at 4.5 CnC OFF/HPC ON?
> 
> additional info:
> vcore = 1.452v
> multi = 22.5
> cpu fan (max) = 1945 rpm


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> dizzin9 your vcore is a bit high i am hitting 4.6GHz with vcore of 1.4v while folding am not going over 52c try dropping your vcore a little and see if that makes any difference to your temps


I had a similar issue throughout this past week... in addition to lowering the Vcore to 1.4, it might be worth considering re-applying thermal compound between your CPU and heatsink depending on how long it's been. I went from seeing my temps spike upwards of 75 to 80C down to spiking at about 42-45C under a prolonged peak load.

I've had my tower on for almost 5 hours now and the average CPU temp after the thermal re-apply has been a very cool 17.9C


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Hey Ozzman, I'm back, I got momentarily derailed "working highers" O.T. : I was down to 3 days to Activate the W7 and it had to be done by auto-phone method, not simple since I'm in ITALY and the toll free numbers were talking to me in Italian... Then the XP install "lost" the ROM drives, (remember dual-boot?), completely, (gone from device mgr) can you guess what that fix was? (nothing I saw posted on the internet).
> 
> Back the MoBo OC. (BIOS is "FA, 23 Oct 2012") When I first got to the CPU multiplier, I didn't get it. Since when you first tick-off from "auto" it STARTS off as WAY-WAY UNDERCLOCK, leading me to believe the mHz number I was seeing was being ADDED TO the default 3.30. For the record it won't boot with 0.80mHz. ONCE I figured that out, my first try was for 3.80, no-go. 3.60, no-go. 3.40 NO-GO!
> 
> Since I already HAD the memory OC'd I guessed that might be conflicting my current efforts. Defaulted the mem back to defaults, and tried 3.40 again, And ah-HAH!, Boot-up-ok. Shut it down to time the restart. It went from 36 to now 26 seconds. (ish) But those 2 successful boots were all I got. I tried to nudge the memory back up. (g-skill has the stock voltage as 1.6 and the Mobo "auto" sets it at 1.5) the only way I knew to get that 1.6 was "profile-1" and then pull the freq back one tick to get the 1860 mHz. BOOT FAIL, put the mem back to default settings so it was the way it last worked but now not-so-much. Boot fail. Back to "optimized defaults" ...reboot all good... that's when Advanced Voltage settings caught my eye. I manually set the MEM at 1.6V and changed nothing else. Good boot and when I timed it, I GOT THE SAME 26-27 SECONDS. (from ice-cold including post). Interesting since the CPU was still showing 3.30 and memory 1600. Anyway that's where I've left it for now.
> 
> I have a feeling in order for the CPU bump to fly I'm going to have to tweak voltages, (CPU and or NB/SB) any tips on some conservative voltage tweaks?
> 
> LASTLY you just said "the multiplier" I assume you meant the CPU multiplier because there's also a "System Multiplier" under the Memory section on the same page.....
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0
> FX-6100 proc
> Currently the memory is Ripjaws 1.6v PC3-17000 2X2gb, but I'm still waiting on:
> CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800.
> Sapphire Radeon HD6670 Ultimate 1GB DDR5


Actually, I was just thinking. The boot fail thing might be because of HPC mode. If you change the CPU multi with HPC mode enabled it will fail to boot. Turn off HPC mode, change your multi then reboot. It should boot with the new multi, go back into the BIOS and turn HPC back on. Its a pain in the nuts but that should eliminate the boot fail for you.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzin9*
> 
> So I tried OC'ing my fx-6300 to 4.5 and it gets hot really quick on OCCT (64-bit, large data set, threads set to auto). I reached 70C 3 mins into it and i stopped it. This is with CnC OFF and HPC mode ON so I did not experience throttling. I ran a couple of gaming benchmarks and the temps maxed out at around mid-50s.
> 
> With CnC ON and HPC mode OFF, the temps max out at 56C and the throttling resumed (OCCT and gaming benchmarks)
> 
> Should I just let the CPU throttle and be in the safe temps or ignore the OCCT test and just leave it at 4.5 CnC OFF/HPC ON?
> 
> additional info:
> vcore = 1.452v
> multi = 22.5
> cpu fan (max) = 1945 rpm


I'd definitely try and pull some voltage out. Also try reapplying fresh thermal compound. How are ambient temps in the room the PC is in? In the summer mine gets pretty warm so my summer overclock is usually a bit lower than my winter overclock just because ambient is much higher and the CPU warms up more.


----------



## Hellsrage

Still waiting on a new reply from Gigabyte but the support person said they would check their HQ to see if there is a new test BIOS for the UD3 Rev. 3.


----------



## Hellsrage

Alright this is the latest reply.
"Dear customer,

They should be working on the final Bios, I'll try to push them.

Thanks."


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I bet 50 bucks it solves nothing.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I bet 50 bucks it solves nothing.


We shall see.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Just a matter of curiosity... my dad is running a PII x6 1090 on a 890FX-UD3. He's been thinking of an upgrade to a 9-series board, and possibly also a processor upgrade if there's a decent combo deal on one. I've noticed from reading this thread that the UD3s seem pretty temperamental when overclocking, but dad usually only sees what he can do oc'ing at stock voltages, then he reverts to running his stuff at stock speeds. Do you think the 990FX-UD3 would be fine for him or should he try a UD5 and spend a little more money?

I ask because unless there's other issues with the UD3 that I haven't heard about I see no point in him spending the extra $30 bucks for the UD5.

Thoughts?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

I bought the 990fxa-ud5 over the ud3 just so I didn't have to bother with the wobbly NB heatsink that overheats.


----------



## WarnerVonTron

So does the ud5 rev 3.0 have problems overclocking ect.? Anything i should be aware of before buying one?


----------



## dizzin9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> dizzin9 your vcore is a bit high i am hitting 4.6GHz with vcore of 1.4v while folding am not going over 52c try dropping your vcore a little and see if that makes any difference to your temps


4.5 @ 1.392v works but it's right at 61C. although i've seen some decent gains (~10-20 fps along with GPU OC), this is just a lil too toasty for me. so i went back to my 4.0 setting which is just a multiplier change (stock voltage) and it's at 41C full load.

guess i'll just wait til later before i seriously get into overclocking. i really just want to see if it can reach 8k on 3dmark11 lol (it didn't).

thanks for the people who chimed in on this.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarnerVonTron*
> 
> So does the ud5 rev 3.0 have problems overclocking ect.? Anything i should be aware of before buying one?


i do think so, so my suggestion would be get the rev. 1.1 like me and u are having no troubles at all.

i don't know for sure tho that the rev. 3.0 has the same problems but why take the risk?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzin9*
> 
> 4.5 @ 1.392v works but it's right at 61C. although i've seen some decent gains (~10-20 fps along with GPU OC), this is just a lil too toasty for me. so i went back to my 4.0 setting which is just a multiplier change (stock voltage) and it's at 41C full load.
> 
> guess i'll just wait til later before i seriously get into overclocking. i really just want to see if it can reach 8k on 3dmark11 lol (it didn't).
> 
> thanks for the people who chimed in on this.


I think I would recommend for a higher overclock is the upgrade to either a 120 or 240mm liquid cooler for your CPU. I'm running a Corsair H80 for my FX-8120 and my is still hitting peak temps up to 52-53 under full stress loads... but it's idle temp/web-browsing temp is about 15-16C... that's at 4GHz and a Vcore of 1.4V... I'm having trouble getting it much higher than 4.2 so I think with a better cooler and a few more voltage tweaks I should be able to get up closer to 4.6 or 4.8 but with the H80 my CPU temps are gonna skyrocket, lol. Then again, the two extra cores put out more heat and hitting a 4.2 or above overclock on the 8120s is 35% percent and up.... that gives me an idea... after I get in a good night's sleep, I think I'll see what I can do if I shut down a couple of cores and run it as a 6 core... hmmmm....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarnerVonTron*
> 
> So does the ud5 rev 3.0 have problems overclocking ect.? Anything i should be aware of before buying one?


Part of it of course depends on the processor, your memory, the CPU cooler you use, and the airflow in the case you have, but as far as the board itself, I believe mine is Rev 2 and I have no issues with overclocking and from what I understand the rev 3s are even more stable. The only thing I know some people don't like about Gigabyte is the way their BIOS interface is designed, but I think it's pretty simple and straight forward. I've had my board for a little over a year and I think they're pretty easy to overclock with as I've had absolutely no problems with it.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> I bought the 990fxa-ud5 over the ud3 just so I didn't have to bother with the wobbly NB heatsink that overheats.


Good point... it's worth spending the extra then so you don't have to deal with a mobo that fries itself... or your other components. Thanks, man.


----------



## SavageBrat

Hi Folks,
I could really use some help and advice, I have the UD 3 reversion 3 board with a 6300 chip but I need some help in getting my ram to 1600, been reading for the last few days and I have everything slotted correctly but for the life of me I must be missing something because when I go into the bios and try to set the multiplier for 1600 it will let me set it but it but then it fails to boot up and I have to go back to the optimized defaults any ideas on what I'm missing here? On a side note is the UD 5 the same way? Tia..


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Gigabyte's 990FX boards automatically set memory clocks to 1333. What memory do you have? Some of them are more finicky to adjust then others... What I had to do with my UD5 and my GSkill RAM was to go into BIOS and disable the DRAM EOCP, change the DRAM setting to manual and up the multiplier to 8X (1600), then you'll have to set the DRAM voltage and timings to those rated for your memory sticks... those should be listed both on the packaging and the manufacturer's labels on the DRAM sticks themselves. From there save and exit and try to boot again. Try that first and if you still have issues, post about it on here and you'll have to make a few minor tweaks on some of the other voltage settings.


----------



## SavageBrat

I have Kingston Hyper Blue X rated @1600, here is is what I finally got. (See Pic) I've included the spec sheet for the ram,,any suggestions?


KHX1600C9D3B1_4G.pdf 187k .pdf file


----------



## itomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarnerVonTron*
> 
> So does the ud5 rev 3.0 have problems overclocking ect.? Anything i should be aware of before buying one?


No, i have UD-5 REV 3.0 and had no problems with throttling or anything else. I have run for 3 hours OCCT with 1.47V @ 4.4Ghz to test will it throttle, and there wasnt any throttling. So UD-5 is good to go.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> I have Kingston Hyper Blue X rated @1600, here is is what I finally got. (See Pic) I've included the spec sheet for the ram,,any suggestions?


Have you switched to "Profile 1"? I'm running 1600 RAM, once you turn to Profile 1 in the BIOS it should set the RAM to 1600.


----------



## aquagene

Been doing some more research into the VRM/Mosfet throttling with the 990FX series. Apparently it occurs with all Gigabyte 990FX boards due to a bad heatsync design, when used with a high end processor like the FX-8350. Seriously considering installing an alternative heatsink, came across this one, the Enzotech MST-88, which as seen in the image below, is compatible with the 990FX-UD3. My only hesitation is that it's recommended to use the included thermal tape, which is absurdly strong, to apply it, due to how uneven the heights of the chips are. Any thoughts on this solution?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> I have Kingston Hyper Blue X rated @1600, here is is what I finally got. (See Pic) I've included the spec sheet for the ram,,any suggestions?
> 
> 
> KHX1600C9D3B1_4G.pdf 187k .pdf file


You're good to go... since it's dual channel memory, CPU-Z will give you the frequency of the individual channel of the RAM sticks, so with 800MHz per channel x 2 channels you have your RAM running at 1600. Glad to have been of help!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Hi Folks,
> I could really use some help and advice, I have the UD 3 reversion 3 board with a 6300 chip but I need some help in getting my ram to 1600, been reading for the last few days and I have everything slotted correctly but for the life of me I must be missing something because when I go into the bios and try to set the multiplier for 1600 it will let me set it but it but then it fails to boot up and I have to go back to the optimized defaults any ideas on what I'm missing here? On a side note is the UD 5 the same way? Tia..


go in to bios and hit the ram profile that is already been loaded and hit profile 2, u will get the timings correctly, and the speed and the voltages also.

good luck.


----------



## SavageBrat

Ram not xmp so it won't work but got it straight,,thank you all for the assist..will try my hand at oc this weekend..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquagene*
> 
> Been doing some more research into the VRM/Mosfet throttling with the 990FX series. Apparently it occurs with all Gigabyte 990FX boards due to a bad heatsync design, when used with a high end processor like the FX-8350. Seriously considering installing an alternative heatsink, came across this one, the Enzotech MST-88, which as seen in the image below, is compatible with the 990FX-UD3. My only hesitation is that it's recommended to use the included thermal tape, which is absurdly strong, to apply it, due to how uneven the heights of the chips are. Any thoughts on this solution?


Man if that works I will be all over it. Having had mine apart and tried using thermal compound in place of that sticky pad I can confirm you need the pad. The center VRM's never touched the heatsink. However I don't see a single review there for the 990FXA-UD3, they are all for the GA-MA770T-UD3P.


----------



## aquagene

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=724205 Here's the thread I found it in, take a look yourself. I'm really tempted to grab one, and they're quite cheap.


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

@aquagene

How come it comes with a color? or its just reflection. So how was it?


----------



## aquagene

As my posts stated, I have not yet purchased the heatsink, the image is not mine, the source thread can be found in the link I provided above. I am seriously considering purchasing it, though, as the drop in temps is apparently quite high. Waiting to hear back from Gigabyte one more time on this issue, as I sent their team an email a few days ago.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well I went ahead and ordered one. I'll let everyone know when I get it installed and what my results are.


----------



## aquagene

Can't wait to see your results. Just noticed you have the same waterblock I'm using, so it'll be interesting to see your new temps as well, as cooler VRM's may also mean a more efficient usage of power cpu-side.

It's been over a week since I submitted my email to GB, don't much think they're interested in answering any questions about this board anymore. Definitely the last GB product I purchase.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

That would be nice. I feel the 8350 overclocked is a bit to much for the 620 to keep up with. If cleaner power even just lets me drop the volts a little I could probably shed some heat.

Yeah I get that same feeling too. When I contacted them the new BIOS was supposed to be released in 3 to 4 weeks.... However I think they know its a not a software issue. I mean I figured it out, surely their engineering team did as well.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquagene*
> 
> It's been over a week since I submitted my email to GB, don't much think they're interested in answering any questions about this board anymore. Definitely the last GB product I purchase.


Yeah you have to bother them an awful lot to get replies when you're saying something is wrong. I just sent another email after not hearing anything in 2 days, if I don't hear anything soon I'm going to let some poor worker know how I feel.

I can't understand why they mounted the heat sinks the way they did, I mean are some nuts and bolts that expensive? They really aren't secure I remember one of them moving from just a tap, sorta ridiculous.


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Yeah you have to bother them an awful lot to get replies when you're saying something is wrong. I just sent another email after not hearing anything in 2 days, if I don't hear anything soon I'm going to let some poor worker know how I feel.
> 
> I can't understand why they mounted the heat sinks the way they did, I mean are some nuts and bolts that expensive? They really aren't secure I remember one of them moving from just a tap, sorta ridiculous.


I agree. Ud5 and ud7, I think... using a screw to secure vrm hs. The ud3 only the SB...


----------



## itomic

Yea, i had UD-3 and went to UD-5. Its much much better then UD-3.


----------



## Nick2d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well I went ahead and ordered one. I'll let everyone know when I get it installed and what my results are.


Looking forward to the results. Unforunately the guy with the pic is OC'ing a 95W 6core chip which isn't quite as power hungry as our 8350 (nor 8150's). Frankly im disappointed I kept my UD3 past my 14day microcenter return period and am either going to aftermarket mosfet sink off or buy a friggin Crosshair Formula V or Sabertooth in a few weeks. Its too bad with the UD3 offering some incredible features and 8+1 power yet lacking proper cooling.

My symptoms are exactly as described from you and a few other users, sadly, its bull**** in the end. And I got up to 4.8, never got to fully stabilize temps as my mobo wanted to literally shutdown and die of failure unless I leave a fan directed on the mosfet and sink immediately under my CPU.

Oh first post! Hell I didn't even post on my old ocn or hardocp accounts in the early 2000s. Mofo lurker in the HOUSE!~


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ifyouseekayeU*
> 
> I agree. Ud5 and ud7, I think... using a screw to secure vrm hs. The ud3 only the SB...


Well anymore you have the choice of an upgrade to the UD5 or a different brand since they've discontinued the UD7s... I had to laugh my butt off when I saw this earlier today...

http://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GA-990FXA-UD7-990FX-SATA-Motherboard/dp/B0055QYKRI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1367028536&sr=8-2&keywords=ga-990fxa-ud7

**EDIT: Turns out there's a few on ebay as well, but that seems to be about all I can find... yea... I like the 990FX boards, just not enough to spend $600+ on one... and unless someone is an absolute diehard fan of the UD7... I have my doubts that anyone else will either.


----------



## aquagene

Man, I love Amazon sometimes. It's been a bit past the return period, but they're accepting the motherboard back for a full refund, and even refunded me early so I can go ahead and pre-purchase a replacement. What did you guys switch to after the UD3? Saw a lot here about the ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0. I'll do a few more hours of research before I make the purchase this time, not gonna get burnt on it again.

On another note, Gigabyte sent me the *beta bios* for the 990FXA-UD3 Rev.3, but I'm not clear on the rules for linking it here, so if you'd like a copy of it, (obviously understanding I'm not responsible if you blow up your hardware), pm me I guess? If I'm allowed to link it let me know. It allows you to disable APM via bios for the Rev.3.

Nevermind. The bios flashes, but the second you try to access it on boot, it freezes. Had another forum member test it as well, same problem. Oh well.


----------



## itomic

Sabertooth is top notch board. If u can, buy it.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Sabertooth is top notch board. If u can, buy it.


i'd spring for the crosshair over the sabertooth, but that is me.

I haven't checked on this thread of awhile. Anyone try the beta F10a bios? I am currently using F9 on my revision 1.0


----------



## s15sLiDeR

I've literally have been in a tech support chat with them for over 5 months. I want to steam roll an orphan at this point. The only way this steam roller doesn't get driven into a cancer hospital is if they release bios that actually work.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> I've literally have been in a tech support chat with them for over 5 months. I want to steam roll an orphan at this point. The only way this steam roller doesn't get driven into a cancer hospital is if they release bios that actually work.


LOL Man, I feel your pain.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I almost feel as if they are mocking us. They got our money, and that is obviously all they care about.


----------



## Cores

If I buy a 990FXA-UD3 soon, what would be the chances of it having a BIOS new enough for Vishera support?
I have no spare AMD AM3 CPU to update the BIOS.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> If I buy a 990FXA-UD3 soon, what would be the chances of it having a BIOS new enough for Vishera support?
> I have no spare AMD AM3 CPU to update the BIOS.


It has Vishera support already, it just has issues with OCing.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I almost feel as if they are mocking us. They got our money, and that is obviously all they care about.


Yeah I'm starting to feel the same, if they can fix these issues I won't really care but this experience will certainly make me think twice before buying a motherboard from Gigabyte again.


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> It has Vishera support already, it just has issues with OCing.


Nice. What's the chance of picking up a Rev 3.0?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> Nice. What's the chance of picking up a Rev 3.0?


Man hope you get the 1.1, you don't want the issues that come along with this garbage Rev 3


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Man hope you get the 1.1, you don't want the issues that come along with this garbage Rev 3


What are these issues?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> What are these issues?


When overclocking with the rev 3 board we get voltage throttling during stress test, like Prime95. It's either caused by temps on the board (because of the heat sinks and how they are mounted) or by a lack of features within the BIOS such as the ability to disable APM which Gigabyte said would be fixed in the next BIOS. But a beta BIOS given to a few of use with the feature didn't solve anything.


----------



## Recursion

I just bought the ga-990fxa ud3 rev 3.0 and while it works out of the box it's difficult to make it stable even at stock clock and voltage? I have flashed the newest bios but it's still very difficult. I'm thinking of using my old mainboard again. My biostar ta-880+ rev. 5.2 was very easy to overclock. I have a question about crossfire? With my new gigabyte I have 2x pci-e 16x lanes slot but with my 2x hd 6950 I don't see any improvement to a 1x pci-e 16x lane + 1x pci-e 4x lanes mainboard? Is this real? I ran furmark and I have the same fps? With my old mainboard I have this bandwith:

1 GPU: 2,9 Gb/s memory bandwidth (x16)
2 GPU: 1,7-1,9 Gb/s memory bandwidth (x4)


----------



## itomic

If u want new Gigabyte board for overclocking, buy UD-5 or UD-7. They dont have any problems. Its shame what they did with UD-3 do.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> If u want new Gigabyte board for overclocking, buy UD-5 or UD-7. They dont have any problems. Its shame what they did with UD-3 do.


Perhaps it's the unlock that make my system unstable? Hmm, I have never ever read about Gigabyte? Strange name for a company?


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Perhaps it's the unlock that make my system unstable? Hmm, I have never ever read about Gigabyte? Strange name for a company?


Never heard about Gigabyte? I would have assumed that if you had an interest in hardware, you would have heard of Gigabyte.
Unless I am misunderstanding what you are saying.


----------



## Recursion

I have read many reviews and Gigabyte was always good. Normaly I would buy Asus. I'm bit disappointed now.


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I have read many reviews and Gigabyte was always good. Normaly I would buy Asus. I'm bit disappointed now.


Yeah, Gigabyte is usually good. I never had any problems with their boards, but this UD3 situation is a huge disappointment.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> Yeah, Gigabyte is usually good. I never had any problems with their boards, but this UD3 situation is a huge disappointment.


I'm totally a noob with hardware. I can solder a bit. This is my first gigabyte mainboard and am3+ socket. I'm totally new with this LLC thing but it's not easy to run it at stock or even overlock. I got it stable at 3500 mhz and 3600 mhz with llc= high and vcore=-0.100mv. In cpu-z my vcore jumps around but why?
For power saving? The other thing is this pci-e 2x 16x lanes. Why is my furmark benchmark not faster?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I'm totally a noob with hardware. I can solder a bit. This is my first gigabyte mainboard and am3+ socket. I'm totally new with this LLC thing but it's not easy to run it at stock or even overlock. I got it stable at 3500 mhz and 3600 mhz with llc= high and vcore=-0.100mv. In cpu-z my vcore jumps around but why?
> For power saving? The other thing is this pci-e 2x 16x lanes. Why is my furmark benchmark not faster?


Update: I have it prime stable at 3500 mhz but it took hours to find the sweet spot.

Code:



Code:


TurionPowerControl.exe -psienable
TurionPowerControl.exe -c1eenable
TurionPowerControl.exe -rampuptime 11
TurionPowerControl.exe -rampdowntime 0
TurionPowerControl.exe -nbfid 8
TurionPowerControl.exe -nbvid 0 37
TurionPowerControl.exe -nbvid 1 36
TurionPowerControl.exe -nbvid 2 35
TurionPowerControl.exe -nbvid 3 34
TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 0 frequency 3500 vcore 1.5500
TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 1 frequency 2400 vcore 1.3500
TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 2 frequency 1600 vcore 1.2500
TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 3 frequency  800 vcore 0.9750


----------



## SpykeZ

I got my UD5 and I'm a bit pissed how much extra attention they gave the VRM heatsinks. I had a UD3 and ended up frying a few of the VRMs because they got too hot, but they used those stupid plastic spring clips. UD5 uses the screw/spring retention used on video cards and its on there super solid.


----------



## BlackamusJones

Hello, everybody. I have the UD3 rev 1.0. I currently have a 1090t in the system, but have an FX-8350 on the way. I have the F9 bios ready to go. I was just wondering if there's anything I need to keep an eye out for, or any tips/advice anyone might have for when I install the new processor.

[edit]

Actually, I was wondering what order I should do the flashing in. Should I flash the bios, then reset the cmos, vice versa, or some other steps?


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackamusJones*
> 
> Hello, everybody. I have the UD3 rev 1.0. I currently have a 1090t in the system, but have an FX-8350 on the way. I have the F9 bios ready to go. I was just wondering if there's anything I need to keep an eye out for, or any tips/advice anyone might have for when I install the new processor.
> 
> [edit]
> 
> Actually, I was wondering what order I should do the flashing in. Should I flash the bios, then reset the cmos, vice versa, or some other steps?


My advice, sell the board. You'd want 1.1 minimum which is when they implemented LLC

Do NOT go above 1.55v unless you have really good cooling on the VRMs. Anything above that and you start getting to the max they can handle. Mine fried when I was on 5.2ghz @ 1.583v


----------



## miklkit

Hello all! I have been lurking here for 10-12 pages or so. You have been doing some great detective work and have already helped me quite a bit. This is my first attempt at overclocking and of course I had to choose the 990 FXA-UD3 rev.3.








Anyway, my FX 8350 is up to 4.5ghz and plays games just fine but I need some clarification about temperatures. I have heard that this cpu should not go over 52-55C core but hwmonitor shows package temps. How can I find out what the core temps are?
The pics are show the hardware at idle and just after a heavy load in a game.


----------



## Recursion

I just overlock my b50 to 3700 mhz but my temps is 72-82°C with this mainboard? In attempting to find the sweet spot I also need to disable my 4th core and also my dual channel isn't possible anymore? What is this mainboard? I also need to flash the first bios because with the newer bios my ram didn't work at 1600 mhz??? But 72°C-82°C? I think my cpu is broken?


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hello all! I have been lurking here for 10-12 pages or so. You have been doing some great detective work and have already helped me quite a bit. This is my first attempt at overclocking and of course I had to choose the 990 FXA-UD3 rev.3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, my FX 8350 is up to 4.5ghz and plays games just fine but I need some clarification about temperatures. I have heard that this cpu should not go over 52-55C core but hwmonitor shows package temps. How can I find out what the core temps are?
> The pics are show the hardware at idle and just after a heavy load in a game.


then you have heard wrong







what you need to hear, is that you should never look at the coretemps, and allways be sure that your cpu temp is below the 65 degrees.


----------



## itomic

Package is cores temp.


----------



## miklkit

Thanks for that information Fordox. It looks like I have some cushion yet.

Recursion, I have heard that there isn't that much difference in speed between fast and slow pci-e slots unless one has a very fast video card.

As for temps I put this mobo into an old case with not enough and too small fans. A new case has been ordered but until it arrives the side cover has to be left off or it WILL overheat. One thing that I did get right was to install an Arctic A30 cpu cooler. What cpu cooler are you using?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Thanks for that information Fordox. It looks like I have some cushion yet.
> 
> Recursion, I have heard that there isn't that much difference in speed between fast and slow pci-e slots unless one has a very fast video card.
> 
> As for temps I put this mobo into an old case with not enough and too small fans. A new case has been ordered but until it arrives the side cover has to be left off or it WILL overheat. One thing that I did get right was to install an Arctic A30 cpu cooler. What cpu cooler are you using?


My 2nd pci-e slot on my old mainboard was only 4x and I saw a benchmark from my crossfire here http://www.computerbase.de/forum/showthread.php?t=1146645 which is realy insane. You can see in my sig my benchmark and it was during winter and it was freezing in my apartement. At one point I managed to max everything in my rig. 2x hd 6950 @ 950/1300 mhz and 3800 mhz cpu and 2800 mhz northbridge. With this I came near that benchmark ( http://www.computerbase.de/forum/showthread.php?t=1146645). But this was with my old mobo. Currently I'm using an Antec 920 kühler. It's better then my Noctua U12P SE and it's also nice that the pump and the fan is controlled by water temp because now my cpu reports insane temps like 70°C-80°C load.


----------



## Recursion

Where can I find a new beta bios for my rev 3 ga-990 fxa ud3? I really want to make my cpu and ram work dual channel and overclock. Thank you!


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

OOOOH-KAY.... I'll take a look at that.... here's where I'm at the moment.... I just got my 8g of Corsair Vengeance, so that'll be going in first thing in the morning (I'm back on nigh-tshift here), and then I'll look at the bus speeds, or at least see if I can figure out what exactly you're talking about....

Here's where I left off last week, I put the memory back all standard, (mem voltage is supposedly set to 1.6v but it doesn't look like the board is actually DOING IT) anyway, As per Ozzmans original suggestion, I tried tweaking the CPU freq/multilpier, one click at a time in the smallest available increments. 3.4, winner, 3.5 busted. boot fail. What's annoying is when that happens, I can't just go back to 3.4, (boot fail) I have to go back to stock and THEN I can nudge it back up one-tick to 3.4. I'm thinking I won't get more than one tick up without some voltage-tweaking, I'm assuming "V-CORE" (?) but I have no clue where I'm going once I start, when you take it off "auto" it doesn't start you at whatever "stock" voltage is it starts at a voltage reduction number and you gotta "scroll-up" into positive numbers, but I have no clue where what's one or two ticks beyond stock. Um, *** is the stock V-core voltage? I apologize if that's a stupid
question and I'm sure it is.
Thanks ALL!


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Actually, I was just thinking. The boot fail thing might be because of HPC mode. If you change the CPU multi with HPC mode enabled it will fail to boot. Turn off HPC mode, change your multi then reboot. It should boot with the new multi, go back into the BIOS and turn HPC back on. Its a pain in the nuts but that should eliminate the boot fail for you.


HPC mode uh? don't recall seeing that but for sure I'm going to look when I get home tomorrow. Think that might get me up to something like 3.6 without having to voltage-tweak?
ANYWAY, I suppose I really should think about posting less on nights when I can't have the system IN FRONT OF ME.... AAAAAnd I think I'm gonna go ahead tomorrow and look at some BIOS updates.... I don't wanna have to re-activate Windows however... What's the consensus-favorite BIOS version and is there any chance I'll have to re-activate windows?
With my DUAL BOOT set-up any BIOS update that lets me set SATA ports 4-5 to AHCI and 0-3 to IDE would be very attractive. As it stands XP is limited to only 2 SATA ports, (it's boot-drive and a single DVD-RW drive), while the only port that really requires AHCI is the SSD with W7 on it. I've heard I can pretty painlessly switch the SSD port to IDE but from what I've been able to gather, if I then wanted to GO BACK to AHCI that could be ah, not so painless...

THANKS ALL.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I received the copper VRM heatsink today. When I get home from work tonight I'll be installing it and testing. Hopefully it solves the throttling issues. I'll let you guys know how it goes.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I received the copper VRM heatsink today. When I get home from work tonight I'll be installing it and testing. Hopefully it solves the throttling issues. I'll let you guys know how it goes.


Good luck man! Heard back from Gigabyte too bad the support person hasn't heard back from HQ.....


----------



## SpykeZ

The UD3's sell pretty quick on the market, jsut sell them and get the UD5, the quality of the heatsinks alone are worth it. I was going to OC my system today but it hit 90F so I was like naw!


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I received the copper VRM heatsink today. When I get home from work tonight I'll be installing it and testing. Hopefully it solves the throttling issues. I'll let you guys know how it goes.


Post some pics if you can


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Hey guys I actually DO get that I'm asking mostly dumb questions that I could get most if not all, of the answers to if I just bothered to READ back a few pages and you're actually being nice not calling me out on it. I DO APPRECIATE that and whatever help/responses I get.

Ref that NB plastic heatsync issue..., Mine came loose on me too so I pulled it off, I couldn't right off get the old paste off, (alcohol was a total NOT) anyway, so I just hit it with a little arctic silver as-was and, failing also at finding any right-size "plumbers washers" I took some plastic coated twist ties and wrapped them around the post *ABOVE the spring* to further compress it. Worked great.
Seems nice and firm. I haven't tested it temp-wise yet but it certainly FEELS more secure.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well the copper heatsink did nothing for my thottling. It still starts to throttle within 5 minutes of Prime. This weekend I may pull the board back out and see how well the VRM's are making contact with this heatsink. You'll see exactly what I mean here in a second.

Tell me my board isn't warped like hell. Look at how badly that its bowed...
http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/IMG_20130501_003823_zpsfe79ef64.jpg.html

Now this is the interesting part. Take a look at that thermal tape. Take notice to how deep the outside VRM's are, now look at the center. See how lightly they are contacting? I'm almost certain this is the issue. The heatsink can't do its job if its not making good contact...
http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/IMG_20130501_004114_zps4b860e64.jpg.html

This is the heatsink
http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/IMG_20130501_002911_zps01750599.jpg.html

Comparing the two side by side
http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/IMG_20130501_004141_zps1e017b14.jpg.html

Mounted with my nuts and bolts in place of the plastic pins.
http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/IMG_20130501_004648_zpsddf00245.jpg.html

Nestled in under the radiator. Yeah its time to dust, that will probably be this weekend as well.
http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/IMG_20130501_005258_zps7c2db8ef.jpg.html

Fully assembled again
http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/IMG_20130501_005608_zps1e27c78f.jpg.html

This is what I use to circulate air on the VRM's. I definitely don't have a lack of air over them.
http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/IMG_20130501_005714_zps0372dd76.jpg.html


----------



## Hellsrage

God damn that board is warped!


----------



## baconybacon

Loooong time lurker, first time poster.

I also have a UD3 and I happen to have one of those coming in the mail along with a CC8 for the northbridge (read on a different forum someone got the thing attached). I cannot believe how hot this damn board gets, its just unbelievable, I have a 8350 and it's "overclocked" via multiplier to a measly 4.2 and it still gets almost too hot to touch.

Anyway I have three questions about what you did.

Did you use goo or just the sticky stuff on the bottom when you attached it?
Did it actually lower the temps?
And what size screws are you using? It looks like those are a perfect fit.


----------



## Zantiszat

Hi new here been reading this for like an hour now and seriosly thinking on returning my UD3 that i bought yesterday at compusa. On my old board a msi970a gd5 my processor a phenomx6 1055T could get to 3.4Ghz easy with this im pushing no more than 3.2Ghz >_<. So im either returning and getting a msi 990fx board or sticking with oldie and getting a processor for around same money any suggestions ???? Or I might just keep it because it looks so sexy









Ps sorry for spelling on my phone atm


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moomaster*
> 
> Try playing around OCing with the bus speeds. I was reading that a lot of people were having success keeping their memory at the correct speeds only when they upped the bus speeds.


OK, MEMORY SPEED: Got the new (Corsair Vengeance 1600C9) in and initially it defaulted to 1333 and boot failed if I tried kicking it up, (using manual multiplier). (CPU already up one-tick to 3.4) (again it's only an FX6100 proc) Then I realized it I still had "turbo" and "quick" on, defaulted those back to normal and auto, then used XMP to kick it up to 1600, and all groovy. Impressive for this BOARD from what I'm reading, but not impressive for this MEMORY as 1600 is actually only the STOCK speed on memory that is supposedly BUILT for OC'ing. anyway no bus speed tweaks, *I did* set the mem voltage up a smidge to 1.54. Dunno if that's acutally making a difference or not.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Actually, I was just thinking. The boot fail thing might be because of HPC mode. If you change the CPU multi with HPC mode enabled it will fail to boot. Turn off HPC mode, change your multi then reboot. It should boot with the new multi, go back into the BIOS and turn HPC back on. Its a pain in the nuts but that should eliminate the boot fail for you.


Hey Ozzman, thanks, I looked and that HPC mode is disabled by (I assume) default. With it off I get, just one nudge up. 3.40 is it.

Question, I've heard a lot of "LLC" talk, finally found it (V-Core LLC), not sure what a good first guess is. I know (I could just guess and see but being at the mercy of military APO shipping I really have to be psychotically careful to NOT get in an RMA situation), ANYWAY the LLC has 7 options reg-med-high,ultra-high, extreme, normal and auto. Should I be tapping that? I guess I could just try "high" and see *** happens but if it's not going to help me then why take the chance? Right? Wrong?

OT: Ozzy indeed rules! Loved Down to Earth and Black Rain. But don't forget who paved the way, Alice Cooper. Caught In A Dream baby! BUT who's more faithful still today to the sound of their BEST years? Hands down, OZZY.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

COOLING, heard a lot about this board running hot. So far I've yet to have an issue in that area, but then, from what I've heard, that issue is also more a factor with the FX 8-cores than my 6100. Plus if I do ever get a decent OC on it I probably won't be taxing it the same way most of you are. Most of you I gather are gamers. I'm just OC'ing for the fun of it to-see-if-can and because I hate waiting for the system to boot-up any longer than I can possibly avoid. BUT that said all this talk of temp-issues has made me glad I (kind of just happened to) ended up with the CASE I did. If I ever DO have a temp issue I expect to be ready for it. This is my new baby:

By FAR the quietest desktop I've ever owned. It came with 3 fans this shot shows 2 of them. Cranked up all the way you can just barely hear these two 120's. At half speed or less they are silent.

this is the 3rd fan which I still have yet to install. I'll probably install it once I'm sure I'm done going in and out.

with the way these 3 fans combine over the hot-spot I'm pretty sure the NO-FAN graphics card was the way to go.
And as I'm sure you can all see I'm running that crap stock OEM CPU HS&fan, in the event I ever see temps creeping up I have THIS standing by if needed.

Soooo cooling is not high on my concerns....
The case for those of you don't already recognize it, is a Zalman MS800 (not the "plus")


----------



## Zantiszat

Well this funny I cant even oc my cpu any change on it and my windows 8 gives millions of errors saying that it is missing kernel among others


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantiszat*
> 
> Hi new here been reading this for like an hour now and seriosly thinking on returning my UD3 that i bought yesterday at compusa. On my old board a msi970a gd5 my processor a phenomx6 1055T could get to 3.4Ghz easy with this im pushing no more than 3.2Ghz >_<. So im either returning and getting a msi 990fx board or sticking with oldie and getting a processor for around same money any suggestions ???? Or I might just keep it because it looks so sexy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ps sorry for spelling on my phone atm


I can unlock my b50 to a x3 with this rev 3 and this mobo. I need to use llc=extrem and a little more vcore and it overclock my cpu to 3400-3500 mhz. That's not much. Especially the core unlock is anoying. Maybe Gigabyte can help with an update?


----------



## Zantiszat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I can unlock my b50 to a x3 with this rev 3 and this mobo. I need to use llc=extrem and a little more vcore and it overclock my cpu to 3400-3500 mhz. That's not much. Especially the core unlock is anoying. Maybe Gigabyte can help with an update?


Yeah been trying and failed each time win8 fails to load if I touch anything CPU wise


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantiszat*
> 
> Yeah been trying and failed each time win8 fails to load if I touch anything CPU wise


Put llc=extreme and vcore=0.50-125mv. Everthing else on auto.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> God damn that board is warped!


Yeah its pretty bad. I tried to flatten it but that got me no where.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baconybacon*
> 
> Loooong time lurker, first time poster.
> 
> I also have a UD3 and I happen to have one of those coming in the mail along with a CC8 for the northbridge (read on a different forum someone got the thing attached). I cannot believe how hot this damn board gets, its just unbelievable, I have a 8350 and it's "overclocked" via multiplier to a measly 4.2 and it still gets almost too hot to touch.
> 
> Anyway I have three questions about what you did.
> 
> Did you use goo or just the sticky stuff on the bottom when you attached it?
> Did it actually lower the temps?
> And what size screws are you using? It looks like those are a perfect fit.


I actually tried to use paste at one point but the center VRM chips made no contact at all. As you can see with the tape they barely contact.

As for temps, I doubt it it did anything because its not contacting the chips. Its quality forged copper so if it were to seat right I'm positive it would make a pretty good difference in temps.

I honestly couldn't say what size they are. They are small! I have a big bag of misc screws, nuts, bolts, stand offs and such I've acquired over the years. I spent literally 2 hours digging through it to find these two that fit!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Hey Ozzman, thanks, I looked and that HPC mode is disabled by (I assume) default. With it off I get, just one nudge up. 3.40 is it.
> 
> Question, I've heard a lot of "LLC" talk, finally found it (V-Core LLC), not sure what a good first guess is. I know (I could just guess and see but being at the mercy of military APO shipping I really have to be psychotically careful to NOT get in an RMA situation), ANYWAY the LLC has 7 options reg-med-high,ultra-high, extreme, normal and auto. Should I be tapping that? I guess I could just try "high" and see *** happens but if it's not going to help me then why take the chance? Right? Wrong?
> 
> OT: Ozzy indeed rules! Loved Down to Earth and Black Rain. But don't forget who paved the way, Alice Cooper. Caught In A Dream baby! BUT who's more faithful still today to the sound of their BEST years? Hands down, OZZY.


I have my LLC set to regular. It seems to be the most mild setting. Under load at 4.5ghz mine goes from 1.368 to 1.404v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Great job man!!
> 
> I think it will raps it up now that the board is an complete sh...t
> 
> i had some issues with my ud3 too to be honest with overclocking, it was not trotting but it seems i could never get a stable reading of my speeds.
> 
> also the ud3 is not that great for high overclocks because of lack of more capacitors, that is why i went over to an UD5 board and i must say that board is a lot better than my UD3.
> 
> not to say that the UD3 is a bad board oh noo it is one of the best board u can get only i is not that good for very hign overclocks because u will fry the VRM's because of lack of coolin, and even tho when u buy something to cool it it comes to the same price than an UD5 or UD7 so why bother? in my opinion i would buy the UD5 rev. 1.1 and your problems are solved.
> 
> also in the picture your board is very bend so i guess it is only a matter of time it will die on you.
> 
> good luck man:thumb:


I'm very disappointed in this board. This is the first time I've ever come across something this stupid in the 15 years I've been building systems. I believe you are right though, its only a matter of time before the VRM's cook themselves and it dies. I don't think I will be buying Gigabyte again though. Its that whole fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me thing lol


----------



## miklkit

Yesterday I got a new case and that copper heat sink. My board lays flat and is not warped like the pictures show, but when I sighted along the top edge there is a little warp in the area of that heat sink. Temperature wise, if anything it runs slightly warmer than before. But overall it seems to be running about 3C warmer than before. More fans!
My goal is 4.6ghz but after reading this thread I just might stop at 4.5ghz..


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Yeah its pretty bad. I tried to flatten it but that got me no where.
> I actually tried to use paste at one point but the center VRM chips made no contact at all. As you can see with the tape they barely contact.
> 
> As for temps, I doubt it it did anything because its not contacting the chips. Its quality forged copper so if it were to seat right I'm positive it would make a pretty good difference in temps.
> 
> I honestly couldn't say what size they are. They are small! I have a big bag of misc screws, nuts, bolts, stand offs and such I've acquired over the years. I spent literally 2 hours digging through it to find these two that fit!
> I have my LLC set to regular. It seems to be the most mild setting. Under load at 4.5ghz mine goes from 1.368 to 1.404v
> I'm very disappointed in this board. This is the first time I've ever come across something this stupid in the 15 years I've been building systems. I believe you are right though, its only a matter of time before the VRM's cook themselves and it dies. I don't think I will be buying Gigabyte again though. Its that whole fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me thing lol


Gigabyte is one of the top tier boards, let's see you makes and sell thousands of boards and see how perfect your product is. Why haven't you sent the board back to them? I fried my VRMs and even though it was my fault and their warranty check said it was out of warranty they still fixed it for free. Do that, sell the board for 80 bucks and get the ud5 ....or an Asrock extreme or something


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Gigabyte is one of the top tier boards, let's see you makes and sell thousands of boards and see how perfect your product is. Why haven't you sent the board back to them? I fried my VRMs and even though it was my fault and their warranty check said it was out of warranty they still fixed it for free. Do that, sell the board for 80 bucks and get the ud5 ....or an Asrock extreme or something


This is the SECOND board. I RMA'd the first one due to this issue and very abnormal CPU temperature readings. I would hardly call that top tier. I'm not going without my computer another 2 weeks for them to send me more of their garbage. I already did it once. So now I'm trying to fix the issue myself and educate others. If I save other people the headache and maybe hit Gigabyte in their wallet some perhaps they will fix the issue. I will be buying a new board. It will not be from Gigabyte and they will never get my business again nor my recommendation to others.

And don't even go there with the lets see me make thousands of parts blah blah blah. I machine thousands of artificial knees a year, my products have to be perfect else I could kill someone. I make sure my stuff is right so people like you don't have something go seriously wrong during or after a major knee replacment surgery. Save that argument for someone else thanks. Perhaps they should employ better quality control methods.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> This is the SECOND board. I RMA'd the first one due to this issue and very abnormal CPU temperature readings. I would hardly call that top tier. I'm not going without my computer another 2 weeks for them to send me more of their garbage. I already did it once. So now I'm trying to fix the issue myself and educate others. If I save other people the headache and maybe hit Gigabyte in their wallet some perhaps they will fix the issue. I will be buying a new board. It will not be from Gigabyte and they will never get my business again nor my recommendation to others.
> 
> And don't even go there with the lets see me make thousands of parts blah blah blah. I machine thousands of artificial knees a year, my products have to be perfect else I could kill someone. I make sure my stuff is right so people like you don't have something go seriously wrong during or after a major knee replacment surgery. Save that argument for someone else thanks. Perhaps they should employ better quality control methods.


LOL. How much do you earn? I don't defend GBT but a chinese worker at GBT doesn't get so much money like you. Even the engineer or developement aren't that paid or only once to design a prototype. It's the sales guys eating up all the money.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> LOL. How much do you earn? I don't defend GBT but a chinese worker at GBT doesn't get so much money like you. Even the engineer or developement aren't that paid or only once to design a prototype. It's the sales guys eating up all the money.


I'm not sure what my salary has to do with it. I take pride in my work and strive to make implants that I would have implanted in me or my family. If I made motherboards I would strive to make boards that I would want to buy. Its called work ethic. Its also not my problem how well they are paid. If they want to make money they have to compete with others making better quality products. I made the mistake of buying their inferior product, that will not happen again. Perhaps they should take a some money from the sales guys and invest it into a few quality control guys?


----------



## Hellsrage

Alright guys lets calm down, no one can deny they dropped the ball on Rev 3 for the UD3, it was a mistake on their part to which they should own up to, whether it has to do with the board or the BIOS is still to be figured out, but either way Gigabyte dropped the ball. These types of things can happen and they clearly make an impact, I for one will think twice about any board I buy in the future regardless of the manufacture.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'm not sure what my salary has to do with it. I take pride in my work and strive to make implants that I would have implanted in me or my family. If I made motherboards I would strive to make boards that I would want to buy. Its called work ethic. Its also not my problem how well they are paid. If they want to make money they have to compete with others making better quality products. I made the mistake of buying their inferior product, that will not happen again. Perhaps they should take a some money from the sales guys and invest it into a few quality control guys?


Because I read you are some sort of surgery and HELPING people. Well, other people think this, too but why do surgeons, health care always insist on this? Do you think
the other people like us don't see the BIG PROFIT the pharma industry create with simply mixing some cheap chemicals too drugs and selling it for 1000% profit? I know the health care is important and I want to pay for it.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Yeah its pretty bad. I tried to flatten it but that got me no where.
> I actually tried to use paste at one point but the center VRM chips made no contact at all. As you can see with the tape they barely contact.
> 
> As for temps, I doubt it it did anything because its not contacting the chips. Its quality forged copper so if it were to seat right I'm positive it would make a pretty good difference in temps.
> 
> I honestly couldn't say what size they are. They are small! I have a big bag of misc screws, nuts, bolts, stand offs and such I've acquired over the years. I spent literally 2 hours digging through it to find these two that fit!
> I have my LLC set to regular. It seems to be the most mild setting. Under load at 4.5ghz mine goes from 1.368 to 1.404v
> I'm very disappointed in this board. This is the first time I've ever come across something this stupid in the 15 years I've been building systems. I believe you are right though, its only a matter of time before the VRM's cook themselves and it dies. I don't think I will be buying Gigabyte again though. Its that whole fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me thing lol


o i hear ya man but prejudice never show much reason because i have had some worst experience with gigabyte u can possibly have but that does not make them all bad.

gigabyte has the best boards and in my opinion the best looking boards and the best overclocking boards, look at the highest an stablest systems they all have gigabyte boards.

so be very careful when u pick your board, i had the UD3 too and now UD5 and 0 problems with the revision 1.1 so if u want the best overclocking board i would suggest to get the UD5 or UD7 but go for the 1.1 revision.

cheers mate:thumb:


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

@OzzyRuleZ

I just realize... can you bend that new heatsink so it can match the curve of the motherboard?

That new cooper heat sink seems a lot easier to bend than the GB one. maybe you have more luck and better contact that way, right?


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'm not sure what my salary has to do with it. I take pride in my work and strive to make implants that I would have implanted in me or my family. If I made motherboards I would strive to make boards that I would want to buy. Its called work ethic. Its also not my problem how well they are paid. If they want to make money they have to compete with others making better quality products. I made the mistake of buying their inferior product, that will not happen again. Perhaps they should take a some money from the sales guys and invest it into a few quality control guys?


Roger That.
Personally I've had nothing but good experiences with GB boards and this is my 3rd. Admittedly this one is is starting to look like it might pull down the average a bit. I've screwed with it a fair bit so far and only had to jumper-reset the cmos once so credit for fundamental stability, (my standards admittedly may be low), BUT for a board that's marketed for overclockers, it's not giving me a warm fuzzy so far. My best experience OC'ing AMD in the past has been BIOSTAR, (had 3). ASROCK, had one it was DOA. Still have it. Asus. had 2, one winner, (INTEL chipset) one not. (AMD chipset) one ECS and one INTEL board. AS FOR THIS GB board (UD3) the flimsy NB heat sink, did not bode well and the lack of a simple means to get my FX6100 more than one tick above stock speed, or the MEMORY even ONE tick above it's stock speed is not impressing me. My last BioStar beat the crap outta that.


----------



## Zantiszat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Put llc=extreme and vcore=0.50-125mv. Everthing else on auto.


Just did that and at least it booted with OC to 3.02 and turbo activated which goes to 3.5 VID under load is currently at 1.42 still in safe zone at least


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:
Originally Posted by NoNewEgg4Me View Post

Hey Ozzman, thanks, I looked and that HPC mode is disabled by (I assume) default. With it off I get, just one nudge up. 3.40 is it.

Question, I've heard a lot of "LLC" talk, finally found it (V-Core LLC), not sure what a good first guess is. I know (I could just guess and see but being at the mercy of military APO shipping I really have to be psychotically careful to NOT get in an RMA situation), ANYWAY the LLC has 7 options reg-med-high,ultra-high, extreme, normal and auto. Should I be tapping that? I guess I could just try "high" and see happens but if it's not going to help me then why take the chance? Right? Wrong?

Originally Posted by OzzyRuleZ:
I have my LLC set to regular. It seems to be the most mild setting. Under load at 4.5ghz mine goes from 1.368 to 1.404v

thanks man,
I'll give that a go if it boots maybe I'll try "med" and see if that flys...


----------



## aquagene

Wow this thread devolved pretty fast from the great, constructive conversation we were having earlier.

@OzzyRuleZ Sucks to hear the heatsink didn't help, you're not alone on the warp. I had a customer come in today with overheating problems. Guess what his board was? UD3 Rev 3. His brother had built it before being deployed and it was shutting down randomly. Checked it out, and his board was warped quite badly, so badly infact that the cpu mounting header was losing contact.

On the subject of Gigabyte being a good manufacturer, sure, maybe they are, but every good manufacturer makes a terrible decision sometimes. It's become clear that Rev 3 has it's problems and that they don't stress test these boards to detect issues, nor from the warping seem to have good QC. All my boards since I've been building were Gigabyte UD's with the previous chipsets, and the quality and attention to detail with layout has really kinda gone downhill with the more affordable boards. It's obvious they're cutting WAY more corners than they used to, and advertising boards way over spec.

I personally just got my Sabertooth in last night. If you guys change boards, I highly recommend the Sabertooth from layout alone. It just makes so much more sense, double fan headers @ the cpu for push/pull radiator setups, USB3.0 header on the far right of the board near the front of the case, individual LED's on each component to show where a problem is visually, a UEFI bios that makes sense and the mouse actually works in, bios button on the board and on the the IO panel. It even comes with a little certificate to indicate the board was temperture and voltage shock tested and stress tested. Very impressed, and the price is maybe 30 bucks more, same as the UD5, but it's so much more obvious that there was attention to detail here than with either the UD3 or UD5 (can't speak for the UD7 as I've never worked with it).


----------



## Roder J

Anyone have a thought as to why the eathernet port on my sons UD3 works at first boot for a minute then dies same with unpluging and reconnecting the cable, routers good, cables good, just started about an hour ago??


----------



## Zantiszat

Frustrated atm







guess ill be returning to store towmorrow


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> o i hear ya man but prejudice never show much reason because i have had some worst experience with gigabyte u can possibly have but that does not make them all bad.
> 
> gigabyte has the best boards and in my opinion the best looking boards and the best overclocking boards, look at the highest an stablest systems they all have gigabyte boards.
> 
> so be very careful when u pick your board, i had the UD3 too and now UD5 and 0 problems with the revision 1.1 so if u want the best overclocking board i would suggest to get the UD5 or UD7 but go for the 1.1 revision.
> 
> cheers mate:thumb:


I just can't give this company anymore of my money when I haven't gotten what I paid for the first time around. I understand most of the guys here haven't had any issues but that doesn't change the sour taste in my mouth. The Sabertooth is looking very good to me.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> @OzzyRuleZ
> 
> I just realize... can you bend that new heatsink so it can match the curve of the motherboard?
> 
> That new cooper heat sink seems a lot easier to bend than the GB one. maybe you have more luck and better contact that way, right?


Maybe, it is very malleable but it will be difficult to match the curvature of the board and the VRM's. I'm going to pull the board out this weekend and jig it up upside down and put some weight on the bottom for a few hours and see if I can't get it to straighten up. Worse comes to worse I break it and I get to buy my Sabertooth early.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> Gigabyte will surely deliver us a new bio
> some time soon....


This sums it up nicely lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquagene*
> 
> Wow this thread devolved pretty fast from the great, constructive conversation we were having earlier.
> 
> @OzzyRuleZ Sucks to hear the heatsink didn't help, you're not alone on the warp. I had a customer come in today with overheating problems. Guess what his board was? UD3 Rev 3. His brother had built it before being deployed and it was shutting down randomly. Checked it out, and his board was warped quite badly, so badly infact that the cpu mounting header was losing contact.
> 
> On the subject of Gigabyte being a good manufacturer, sure, maybe they are, but every good manufacturer makes a terrible decision sometimes. It's become clear that Rev 3 has it's problems and that they don't stress test these boards to detect issues, nor from the warping seem to have good QC. All my boards since I've been building were Gigabyte UD's with the previous chipsets, and the quality and attention to detail with layout has really kinda gone downhill with the more affordable boards. It's obvious they're cutting WAY more corners than they used to, and advertising boards way over spec.
> 
> I personally just got my Sabertooth in last night. If you guys change boards, I highly recommend the Sabertooth from layout alone. It just makes so much more sense, double fan headers @ the cpu for push/pull radiator setups, USB3.0 header on the far right of the board near the front of the case, individual LED's on each component to show where a problem is visually, a UEFI bios that makes sense and the mouse actually works in, bios button on the board and on the the IO panel. It even comes with a little certificate to indicate the board was temperture and voltage shock tested and stress tested. Very impressed, and the price is maybe 30 bucks more, same as the UD5, but it's so much more obvious that there was attention to detail here than with either the UD3 or UD5 (can't speak for the UD7 as I've never worked with it).


I've been reading very good things about the Sabertooth, I'm leaning very strongly in that direction. Its sad that there are others experiencing this warping issue. This is something a quick visual inspection during manufacturing would catch. Its just crazy!


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Recursion View Post

Put llc=extreme and vcore=0.50-125mv. Everthing else on auto.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zantiszat*
> 
> Just did that and at least it booted with OC to 3.02 and turbo activated which goes to 3.5 VID under load is currently at 1.42 still in safe zone at least


I started at "medium" on the LLC and successfully worked my way up to "extreme". Didn't seem to make a noticeable difference in the boot-time but I haven't timed it again yet.
As for the "vcore=0.50-125mv" . . . once again I must beg forgiveness for my ignorance but I didn't really understand that. I found V-Core voltage at the top of
the same section where the LLC setting is but it only alows for a single setting, and "0.50-125mv" looks like a range. So I just left that on auto for now.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aquagene*
> 
> Wow this thread devolved pretty fast from the great, constructive conversation we were having earlier.


Sorry... "Thread-killer" strikes again....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Gentlemen, permit me if I may, to back up, and start over.

What I have:
GA-990FXA-UD3, rev: 3.0, BIOS: FA
FX-6100
CORSAIR Vengeance PC3 12800 - 1600C9
Sapphire Radeon HD6670 Ultimate 1GB DDR5

What I'd like to achieve:
Memory OC'd by one tick, say 1866mhz
And Processor OC'd, to say, 3.6 - 3.7Ghz

Are these not fairly conservative goals? Or am I under a misconception that, (given my hardware) this should be fairly simple OC?
and speaking of possible misconceptions, I'm assuming my somewhat conservative (budget) Graphics card does not represent
any sort of "bottleneck". Yes, no?

SO FAR the best I've been able to achieve is
3.4Ghz on a stock 3.3Ghz proc and
1600mhz on the STOCK 1600mhz Vengeance memory.

What am I missing? Did I just make huge mistake not ponying-up for the UD5? Simple as that?

Any and all input/thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
y'all have a great day


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I just can't give this company anymore of my money when I haven't gotten what I paid for the first time around. I understand most of the guys here haven't had any issues but that doesn't change the sour taste in my mouth. The Sabertooth is looking very good to me.
> Maybe, it is very malleable but it will be difficult to match the curvature of the board and the VRM's. I'm going to pull the board out this weekend and jig it up upside down and put some weight on the bottom for a few hours and see if I can't get it to straighten up. Worse comes to worse I break it and I get to buy my Sabertooth early.
> This sums it up nicely lol
> I've been reading very good things about the Sabertooth, I'm leaning very strongly in that direction. Its sad that there are others experiencing this warping issue. This is something a quick visual inspection during manufacturing would catch. Its just crazy!


yes i do understand the fact that gigabyte left u a bad taste in your mouth

but sometimes it is better to swallow it and move on and get the best board witch in my opinion is the UD5, like i said gigabyte boards always clock well (if u have the good revision of course)

i would not say that gigabyte is better than Asus but if u look at the max overclocks on some systems they all use gigabyte boards.

also in my opinion i like the astetics more from gigabyte than Asus boards Gigabyte just look better and for me that is what i like.

so good luck with choosing the good board


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Recursion View Post
> 
> Put llc=extreme and vcore=0.50-125mv. Everthing else on auto.
> I started at "medium" on the LLC and successfully worked my way up to "extreme". Didn't seem to make a noticeable difference in the boot-time but I haven't timed it again yet.
> As for the "vcore=0.50-125mv" . . . once again I must beg forgiveness for my ignorance but I didn't really understand that. I found V-Core voltage at the top of
> the same section where the LLC setting is but it only alows for a single setting, and "0.50-125mv" looks like a range. So I just left that on auto for now.


Yes, I give a range. It depends how much you can bump the cpu. My cpu is 1.55-1.600 volt and you need the maximum value to have a overclock. I don't know what happens with auto-setting but my cpu is 1.3500 volt from the bios and I use turion power control. Here is my setting for 3500 mhz:

TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 0 frequency 3500 vcore 1.3500
TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 1 frequency 2500 vcore 1.2500
TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 2 frequency 1900 vcore 1.1500
TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 3 frequency 800 vcore 1.0000

With vcore=0.100 my maximum voltage is 1.5500 volt. On my other mainboard I can bump up my cpu with 1.555 up to 3800 mhz.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Originally Posted by OzzyRuleZ View Post

I just can't give this company anymore of my money when I haven't gotten what I paid for the first time around. I understand most of the guys here haven't had any issues but that doesn't change the sour taste in my mouth.








I suspect the same is probably the case for me (vs "most of you guys") and NEWEGG. Or has anyone else noticed that N.Egg Customer Service ain't what it was 5 years ago? (now that they're fully established as one of the biggest dogs in the valley), (if not THE biggest)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yes, I give a range. It depends how much you can bump the cpu. My cpu is 1.55-1.600 volt and you need the maximum value to have a overclock. I don't know what happens with auto-setting but my cpu is 1.3500 volt from the bios and I use turion power control. Here is my setting for 3500 mhz:
> 
> TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 0 frequency 3500 vcore 1.3500
> TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 1 frequency 2500 vcore 1.2500
> TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 2 frequency 1900 vcore 1.1500
> TurionPowerControl.exe -set node all core all pstate 3 frequency 800 vcore 1.0000
> 
> With vcore=0.100 my maximum voltage is 1.5500 volt. On my other mainboard I can bump up my cpu with 1.555 up to 3800 mhz.


Thank You.
That I'm going to print.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Gentlemen, permit me if I may, to back up, and start over.
> 
> What I have:
> GA-990FXA-UD3, rev: 3.0, BIOS: FA
> FX-6100
> CORSAIR Vengeance PC3 12800 - 1600C9
> Sapphire Radeon HD6670 Ultimate 1GB DDR5
> 
> What I'd like to achieve:
> Memory OC'd by one tick, say 1866mhz
> And Processor OC'd, to say, 3.6 - 3.7Ghz
> 
> Are these not fairly conservative goals? Or am I under a misconception that, (given my hardware) this should be fairly simple OC?
> and speaking of possible misconceptions, I'm assuming my somewhat conservative (budget) Graphics card does not represent
> any sort of "bottleneck". Yes, no?
> 
> SO FAR the best I've been able to achieve is
> 3.4Ghz on a stock 3.3Ghz proc and
> 1600mhz on the STOCK 1600mhz Vengeance memory.
> 
> What am I missing? Did I just make huge mistake not ponying-up for the UD5? Simple as that?
> 
> Any and all input/thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks in advance,
> y'all have a great day


I'd say go ahead and flash the FC BIOS. I doubt that it will magically fix anything but there could always be a bug.

I would back the RAM off as much as possible, set it on the lowest mulitiplier you can and put the CAS latency at like 11. That would basically eliminate the memory from causing any OC failure. Then see if you can get the CPU above 3.4Ghz. If and when you are able to get the CPU speed up to where you want then you would slowly bring the memory speed up. Now keep in mind stock is 1600 CAS 9, to get 1866 might not be possible. Start with keeping the CAS at 11 and bring it up to 1866 and test it. Memory I've found is the most difficult thing to get stable.


----------



## LazarusIV

Hey guys! New UD5 owner here, just wanted to say hi! Also, I'm starting to OC a bit and I'm coming from ASUS boards. What are the basics for the UD5 Rev 1.1? Thanks for the help everyone!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Hey guys! New UD5 owner here, just wanted to say hi! Also, I'm starting to OC a bit and I'm coming from ASUS boards. What are the basics for the UD5 Rev 1.1? Thanks for the help everyone!


great choice dude, you are now an owner of one of the best boards if not the best u can buy today:thumb:

well it depends on what OC u want to begin with. so what are u looking for? the max u can get? and also what is your RAM?

i assume u have the 8350 right?


----------



## LazarusIV

Hey man, thanks for the fast reply! I've got all the hardware I'm using in my sig rig. Only diff is the RAM is running at 1600MHz instead of anything higher. I want to get a good, stable OC on my 8350 before I mess with the RAM. I'm only using H50 for cooling right now but I'll upgrade that when I can to either a custom loop or a Swiftech H220.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Hi guys. I just recieved an email from Gigabyte about the 990fxa-ud5 rev.3.0 and thought I should post it here. I wrote to them asking what the NB Core voltage was in bios. If it related to the IMC in the fx chip or to the NB voltage on the motherboard,. This is the reply I recieved.

Dear Z___,

NB core voltage is just for the onboard northbridge chip that controls things like the sata controller and pci lanes. According to AMD official spec, they don't offer IMC adjusting option for users.

Thanks.

If anyone knows any different or has more insight into this I'd appreciate it.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'd say go ahead and flash the FC BIOS. I doubt that it will magically fix anything but there could always be a bug.
> 
> I would back the RAM off as much as possible, set it on the lowest mulitiplier you can and put the CAS latency at like 11. That would basically eliminate the memory from causing any OC failure. Then see if you can get the CPU above 3.4Ghz. If and when you are able to get the CPU speed up to where you want then you would slowly bring the memory speed up. Now keep in mind stock is 1600 CAS 9, to get 1866 might not be possible. Start with keeping the CAS at 11 and bring it up to 1866 and test it. Memory I've found is the most difficult thing to get stable.


Thanks Man, I like the BIOS update nudge. I was already thinking seriously about that. My only question on that is how sure are we W7 won't tweak on me and ask to be re-activated.?

AS FOR the memory I was reading the reviews at the egg, and there's a guy (claims) he got my memory stable at 2200. From everything I've read, 1866 should be well within reasonable expectations. But setting the memory at most conservative and then pushing the CPU might not be a bad idea.

I finally got around to doing a little of my own "due diligence" on the FX-6100 and I found what looks like a pretty well written/tested guide for OC'ing my 6100 over at tweaktown.com, the author seems to suggest up to 3.6 is fairly simple, but not to push much beyond that unless you're prepared for things to get dicey. And heard the same thing on at least one other site so I'm planing to be good with 3.6,
SECONDLY he says in order to GET 3.5 or 3.6 pretty much everything needs to nudged up proportionally, V-core, NB, HTT, LLC, and CPU Host Clock, and RAM. He gives specifics for multipliers as well as voltages. NOW granted this 'guide' is NOT based specifically on our UD3 and GB BIOS, but instead the CPU itself. SO I'll probably cutting by about 40% most of his numbers at least to start.
Definitely not doing anything tonight that's for sure. I'm beat.
If interested I can post a link to that guide tomorrow. It's on my PC at work where I am NOT at now... ahhh Scotch...









Thanks man.


----------



## miklkit

I've been reading this thread again looking for the temps where the UD3 begins throttling. It appears that the cpu throttles at 65C but I could not find anything on TMPIN0, TMPIN1, TMPIN2 temps. I have the Enzotech copper cooler installed but it did not help and motherboard temps are now higher than cpu temps.
So far the 8350 is stable at 4.5 ghz with only multiplier boost.


----------



## itomic

If anyone knows any different or has more insight into this I'd appreciate it.







[/quote]

U should ask them about CPU-NB. There r two NB in AMD system. One is CPU-NB and that one is important for overclocking and another one is on the board it self, and that one isnt important for OC. They gave u information for MBO NB.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Thanks Man, I like the BIOS update nudge. I was already thinking seriously about that. My only question on that is how sure are we W7 won't tweak on me and ask to be re-activated.?
> 
> AS FOR the memory I was reading the reviews at the egg, and there's a guy (claims) he got my memory stable at 2200. From everything I've read, 1866 should be well within reasonable expectations. But setting the memory at most conservative and then pushing the CPU might not be a bad idea.
> 
> I finally got around to doing a little of my own "due diligence" on the FX-6100 and I found what looks like a pretty well written/tested guide for OC'ing my 6100 over at tweaktown.com, the author seems to suggest up to 3.6 is fairly simple, but not to push much beyond that unless you're prepared for things to get dicey. And heard the same thing on at least one other site so I'm planing to be good with 3.6,
> SECONDLY he says in order to GET 3.5 or 3.6 pretty much everything needs to nudged up proportionally, V-core, NB, HTT, LLC, and CPU Host Clock, and RAM. He gives specifics for multipliers as well as voltages. NOW granted this 'guide' is NOT based specifically on our UD3 and GB BIOS, but instead the CPU itself. SO I'll probably cutting by about 40% most of his numbers at least to start.
> Definitely not doing anything tonight that's for sure. I'm beat.
> If interested I can post a link to that guide tomorrow. It's on my PC at work where I am NOT at now... ahhh Scotch...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man.


I've never had to reactivate Windows due to a bios update. Reactivation only happens when Windows sees a new motherboard. That would be caused by a hardware serial number change not a firmware update.


----------



## Pudfark

Howdy Oz,

That may not always hold true, "Reactivation only happens when Windows sees a new motherboard."
It has been my recent experience....going from a GA 790-ud5p rev. 1.0 to a 990fx-ud3p rev. 1.1 and a "reload" of the OS was
not required. OS was Win7 64 Pro OEM. Further, I also went from a WD Caviar Black to a Intel SSD and then a AMD 955 to
a AMD 8350. All done with that very same OEM OS. Which, my understanding is, you ain't supposed to be able to do.

You may be exactly correct if you change brand names of Mobo's. Thoughts?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Howdy Oz,
> 
> That may not always hold true, "Reactivation only happens when Windows sees a new motherboard."
> It has been my recent experience....going from a GA 790-ud5p rev. 1.0 to a 990fx-ud3p rev. 1.1 and a "reload" of the OS was
> not required. OS was Win7 64 Pro OEM. Further, I also went from a WD Caviar Black to a Intel SSD and then a AMD 955 to
> a AMD 8350. All done with that very same OEM OS. Which, my understanding is, you ain't supposed to be able to do.
> 
> You may be exactly correct if you change brand names of Mobo's. Thoughts?


h110 isn't a water cooler. It's a liquid cooler.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> If u want new Gigabyte board for overclocking, buy UD-5 or UD-7. They dont have any problems. Its shame what they did with UD-3 do.


My UD5 is a Rev 1.1 and I've never had a problem with it... the UD7s are even better, the only draw back is that Gigabyte has discontinued the UD7, so finding one means scouring around on eBay, amazon marketplace, etc, and probably spending at least 3 times what it retailed for in order to get a brand new one. Unless someone has a big rubbery one for the UD7 and simply cannot go without it for whatever ridiculous reason, just go with a UD5, they're very reliable and you shouldn't have an issue getting AM3+ CPUs up to at least a 30% overclock with proper cooling.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Howdy Oz,
> 
> That may not always hold true, "Reactivation only happens when Windows sees a new motherboard."
> It has been my recent experience....going from a GA 790-ud5p rev. 1.0 to a 990fx-ud3p rev. 1.1 and a "reload" of the OS was
> not required. OS was Win7 64 Pro OEM. Further, I also went from a WD Caviar Black to a Intel SSD and then a AMD 955 to
> a AMD 8350. All done with that very same OEM OS. Which, my understanding is, you ain't supposed to be able to do.
> 
> You may be exactly correct if you change brand names of Mobo's. Thoughts?


It's kind of weird with Windows 7 I noticed. I went from my Asus board with phenom x6 to the ud3 1.1 and 8350 with no os reinstall and it never asked to reactivate. I had to rma that board and got the rev 3 and just swapped it in and it made me reactivate then.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'd say go ahead and flash the FC BIOS. I doubt that it will magically fix anything but there could always be a bug.
> 
> I would back the RAM off as much as possible, set it on the lowest mulitiplier you can and put the CAS latency at like 11. That would basically eliminate the memory from causing any OC failure. Then see if you can get the CPU above 3.4Ghz. If and when you are able to get the CPU speed up to where you want then you would slowly bring the memory speed up. Now keep in mind stock is 1600 CAS 9, to get 1866 might not be possible. Start with keeping the CAS at 11 and bring it up to 1866 and test it. Memory I've found is the most difficult thing to get stable.


Thanks Oz,
Good thoughts on the re-activation issue. Guess I'll go ahead with it. I did DL the FC BIOS last night at home.
tonight I'll do that before proceeding with anything else. So FAR this build is still in setup phase. I only went on-line with it to get the OS and AV updated.
I'm still running my previous build as "workhorse". I don't breakdown the old build (data drives get pulled), until I'm 100% sure the new build is 110% where I want it to be, to include, a stable OC.


----------



## Metalcrack

I've been hit by the noob bug. I can't think of anything else to try. I know it has to be something simple.

Decided on a whim to grab a 6300 for my board (UD3 Rev 1.1) from Microcenter. Simply put it is not stable AT STOCK/DEFAULT settings.....at all. Windows will load and after the desktop is loaded everything freezes. It seems to work in safe mode, which is weird and points to a driver issue.....but my 960t boots and works just fine....even highly overclocked.

I was using BIOS F10a (which is a beta), and tried F9, as GigaBytes site said F9 supported Vishera. Reset the CMOS via jumper and made sure AHCI was set etc.

I guess I can try a fresh install of Win 7, but I've upgraded/changed processors before and never seen this. If that fails I guess I can exchange it at Microcenter.

Any suggestions I can try after work?


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

A little nudge wont tilt, its more robust unlike before...but, the southbridge hs still not stable when put a little pressure, it leans side to side. Thanks OZ man....for sharing the pics..


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> great choice dude, you are now an owner of one of the best boards if not the best u can buy today:thumb:
> 
> well it depends on what OC u want to begin with. so what are u looking for? the max u can get? and also what is your RAM?
> 
> i assume u have the 8350 right?


Not entirely, we're limited on the VRMs with how much power they can handle. Asus sabertooth and formula have much better ones


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So I tore the board back out snd found that the copper heatsink isn't contacting the center vrm's just as I suspected. So now I'm attempting to flatten the board while I'm at work. Hopefully 10 hours of a 2 lb slide hammer laying on it will flatten it out. If not I'll have to get creative...


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So I tore the board back out snd found that the copper heatsink isn't contacting the center vrm's just as I suspected. So now I'm attempting to flatten the board while I'm at work. Hopefully 10 hours of a 2 lb slide hammer laying on it will flatten it out. If not I'll have to get creative...


Couldn't you just put a spacer beneath the board, anything non-conductive. Even a piece of wood the same height as a stand-off and a little hot glue. It wouldn't have to be big, just a little reinforcement under the center of the mosfets.


----------



## Metalcrack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Couldn't you just put a spacer beneath the board, anything non-conductive. Even a piece of wood the same height as a stand-off and a little hot glue. It wouldn't have to be big, just a little reinforcement under the center of the mosfets.


This is a good idea. +Rep.


----------



## MadGoat

Packing foam (the harder stuff), done this before on main boards that warp...placed between the motherboard and the mounting plate directly under the peak of the warp... works great.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Couldn't you just put a spacer beneath the board, anything non-conductive. Even a piece of wood the same height as a stand-off and a little hot glue. It wouldn't have to be big, just a little reinforcement under the center of the mosfets.


It's a good idea I've thought of trying that. Two things worry me, how hot does that area get, can it cause a fire or melt whatever I wedge in there and it may cause it to warp around the cpu socket and ram. If this doesn't work I may try it anyways.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So I tore the board back out snd found that the copper heatsink isn't contacting the center vrm's just as I suspected. So now I'm attempting to flatten the board while I'm at work. Hopefully 10 hours of a 2 lb slide hammer laying on it will flatten it out. If not I'll have to get creative...
> ]


I am a "proud" owner of a Gigabyte FX 990 UD3 rev. 3 mobo and a FX 8320 processor.
Previously I owned an Asrock 970 Pro3 which didn't have any cooling on the VRMs at all ... but it was listed as "compatible" with FX 8 core processors. Of course, it was a joke of a MB.. *it died after only 2 days of tweaking / testing at various speeds .. ranging from 4000 to 4500 Mhz and voltage from default up to 1.54 V and killed my processor at the same time!* I got LUCKY and managed to RMA both of them .. each one was bought from a different supplier








I have to assure you that Asrock throttles way much worse compared to Gigabyte... so, it suffers from the same "plague"..

After a week of tweaking, throttling, tweaking and rebooting..,reading this thread and others dedicated to FX 8 core Vishera procs, I managed to achieve OCCT stability with these details which I recommend to you and others:
1. The number one rule: cooling --> get as good as you can afford: I have Noctua NH-D14 .. I know, not as good as H110 or other high end liquid counterparts.. but still I got it for only 80 Euro (~100 USD) here in Romania where H110 is around 150 USD.
1.b. Make sure the NB / VRM radiator makes good contact then put a *80 mm 2200+ rpm fan facing directly to the VRM radiator*.
2. Voltage: do not exaggerate.. try the default as long as it remains stable. Increase +0,025 V at a time for vCore and +0,025 V vCore NB once for 2 or three Vcore notches! (I mean: if you increase vCore to +0,050 or +0,075 then increase vCore NB to +0,025 only)
3. Disable APM power management through the AMD Overdrive trick (it's the only way so far: Enter AOD --> Clock Volatge --> Turbo Core --> TOGGLE (if it's Enabled then disable or viceversa. It will work either way.. if you make sure at the end it's on "Disabled" --> OK --> Close AOD, no need to Apply or save because you can accidentally change the multiplier)
4. For convenience disable every CPU boost or power management features like Cool & Quiet, C1E etc from BIOS. *although I found that all 8 core speeds will stay at maximum in full load if you do the APM AOD trick anyway








5. Play with LLC in BIOS, one step at a time. I found that for me, the most stable voltage is supplied at "Regular". It could be related to the quality/power supplied by your PSU... I am not sure although.
6. use XMP memory profiles if they are available.. I have 2x4 GB Geil EVO Veloce 2133 Mhz CAS 10 and it seems that their sweetspot is the rated 2133 Mhz. Neither 1600 @ cas 9 / 1833 @ cas 9 or other settings would work better than their rated speed. I even managed to tighten the timings with increased 1.68 V (9-11-10-27 @ 2133)

Right now I can OCCT at 4300 without throttling @ +0.025 vCore / +0.000 NB Core (manually set.. not default).
Temps: Package & TMPIN1 @ Ambient + 28 degrees Celsius with case open. With big air cooler like mine, expect +2,+3 degrees increase due to the large amount of heat dissipated from the VRM area and pushed towards the processor's heat-sink.

As a personal conclusion, I'd say that the throttling problem is generated mainly by the CPU, not by the mobos' VRM design.
Such insane power draw (100 W idle / 400 W system full load! @ 4.4 Ghz power draw WITHOUT video card measured during CPU OCCT by a Kill a Watt meter directly from the outlet ) needs seriously over-sized VRMs / capacitors beyond the limits at which they are not economically feasible by the motherboard manufacturers.
At this point, sadly I would say that no Bios update from Gigabyte will get us rid of throttling because most certainly lots of mobos will fry in a matter of days without throttling. Best way to deal with the problem is to find better cooling solutions for the VRM area ... This is where aftermarket should come in help but currently I am not aware of any serious VRM cooling solution that works on 990 FX UD3. I'm currently still searching..
_Sorry for the long post







_


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Oh its definitely the VRM's on my board. Not entirely their fault being I can't get a heatsink to make contact with them. It's throttling because they are exceeding their heat limit. Basically the throttling is preventing a fire.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Oh its definitely the VRM's on my board. Not entirely their fault being I can't get a heatsink to make contact with them. It's throttling because they are exceeding their heat limit. Basically the throttling is preventing a fire.


This is true.. if you manage to properly cool the VRMs then you will certainly delay throttling. Anyway, it's clear that Gigabyte should have tested seriously the capabilities of this board paired with the 8 core Vishera CPUs before advertising full compatibility.. or design an entirely new lineup of boards that can cope with the demands of these power hungry 8 core monsters.

I forgot a little secret: try to decrease Northbridge Voltage from 1.1V to 1.065 - 1.075 V. It seems that for me it helped decrease vCore Voltage boost during stress /load.


----------



## itomic

I dont know Sabinus where did u get that much of a power draw !! I didnt get to 400W from the wall with CPU at 4.4Ghz at hight 1.475V running P95 Blend + Unigine Heaven with 7850 @ 1050/1200 Mhz !!! P95 alone with same set-up draws up to 250W. My gpu adds about 130W.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> I dont know Sabinus where did u get that much of a power draw !! I didnt get to 400W from the wall with CPU at 4.4Ghz at hight 1.475V running P95 Blend + Unigine Heaven with 7850 @ 1050/1200 Mhz !!! P95 alone with same set-up draws up to 250W. My gpu adds about 130W.


What are you measuring with?
I also get ~280W power draw according to the display on the back of the PSU (Sirtec/High Power 560 Real Time Power Watcher).
Hmm, maybe my Kill-a-Watt device doesn't work correctly if it's put in a extension cord along with other devices...


----------



## itomic

I have device similar to kill-a-watt. It has same purpose as kill-a-watt.


----------



## SpykeZ

So, I'm about to OC for the first time on a UEFI bios but I have a question. On the old Legacy bios, it told you right under the Vcore what it was going to be if you saved it to the bios. I don't see that ANYWHERE on the UEFI. I change the value and go back to the spec page and the vcore doesn't change. So how am I supposed to know what the value is going to be?


----------



## miklkit

I am also working on temperature reduction for the cpu and motherboard. With the side cover off the 8350 and mobo run in the 53-36C range, but with the side cover on they run in the 64-67 C range. So the side cover is off until I get the temps fixed.
I only oc'ed by upping the multiplier and those temps are at 4.5 ghz. The cpu cooler is an Arctic A30 turned so the fan is on the back side in the pull position and the 120mm fan is blowing directly onto the rear exhaust 120mm fan. This gives air flow over the top of that copper heat sink which helps keep it less hot.

About power consumption: I have X2 HD6970's, 2-500gb HD's, a Creative Soundlaster Z sound card, a 24" BenQ monitor and I have seen over 700w. I use a good UPS with an led screen that shows the draw at the wall. This thing idles at 230w.


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey,
I have a 990fxa-ud5
I'm a tad of a noob in the whole oc'ing business.
I was running Type 95 to check my temps, and i realized the core speed was fluctuating. Everything's stock at the moment and i was wondering if its normal?
Thanks in advance


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

How much is it fluctuating?


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> How much is it fluctuating?


It's completely random :/


----------



## OldStumo

Hi guys, need a little assistance here. I scanned back about 50 pages and tried various things that were roughly applicable to my prob, no help. Please bare in mind that I'm fairly n00bish to this stuff.

So, I'm running a 990FXA UD3, an AMD FX8350 processor and 32 gigs of GSKILL Ripjaw 1866 RAM cl9-10-9-28. As I assume is standard, the BIOS is setting the RAM speed at 1333 by default, but I've not had any luck getting the BIOS to accept the RAMs 1866 rated speed. The RAM has XMP profile, and when I set it to either XMP profile 1 or 2 it appears to take on the proper settings with regards to timings and voltage, but I only get a boot fail when I save and exit. Am I missing something? I went to the Gskill website and the RAM package I bought doesn't list this mobo as being compatible, even though the mobo lists that it supports 1866 RAM.

Any assistance greatly appreciated, if I've left out any important details just let me know and I'll post whatever is needed. Thanks in advance!


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> It's completely random :/


There's like 4 throttling options in the bios. Some to reduce power, some to reduce heat, etc etc. Usually if you put it under full load you won't see it fluctuate. Unless you're overclocking, I wouldn't worry about.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well I give up!

I got home checked the board it was much flatter than it was. I even decided to employ the suggestion of putting something under the motherboard. I mounted the board and let it sit for about 10 minutes then pulled it again. I pulled the heatsink off the VRM's and was able to see it was actually able to contact all the chips. It was contacting all of them, I was excited! I remounted everything and fired it up disabled APM and started to run Prime. It made it exactly 4 minutes then started throttling. The copper heatsink was very hot even with my fan on it.

I've invested a lot of time and energy trying to correct this problem and sadly failed. I'll be replacing this board with probably an Asus Sabertooth, but for now I'll be running it because I'd rather fix my project car than the computer. So after the car is back up I'll be getting rid of this board. I'm sorry I wasn't able to fix the problem gentlemen (and ladies?)


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well I give up!
> 
> I got home checked the board it was much flatter than it was. I even decided to employ the suggestion of putting something under the motherboard. I mounted the board and let it sit for about 10 minutes then pulled it again. I pulled the heatsink off the VRM's and was able to see it was actually able to contact all the chips. It was contacting all of them, I was excited! I remounted everything and fired it up disabled APM and started to run Prime. It made it exactly 4 minutes then started throttling. The copper heatsink was very hot even with my fan on it.
> 
> I've invested a lot of time and energy trying to correct this problem and sadly failed. I'll be replacing this board with probably an Asus Sabertooth, but for now I'll be running it because I'd rather fix my project car than the computer. So after the car is back up I'll be getting rid of this board. I'm sorry I wasn't able to fix the problem gentlemen (and ladies?)


UD3's sell for 80 bucks on here. Sell it and put the money torwards your new board.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> UD3's sell for 80 bucks on here. Sell it and put the money torwards your new board.


I honestly wouldn't feel right about selling this thing to someone. To me it would feel like knowingly selling a defective part to someone. Maybe when I get my new board I'll RMA this one and put together another rig either that it will sit in my spare parts room and rot.


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I honestly wouldn't feel right about selling this thing to someone. To me it would feel like knowingly selling a defective part to someone. Maybe when I get my new board I'll RMA this one and put together another rig either that it will sit in my spare parts room and rot.


I agree. rot or htpc any...


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalcrack*
> 
> I've been hit by the noob bug. I can't think of anything else to try. I know it has to be something simple.
> 
> Decided on a whim to grab a 6300 for my board (UD3 Rev 1.1) from Microcenter. Simply put it is not stable AT STOCK/DEFAULT settings.....at all. Windows will load and after the desktop is loaded everything freezes. It seems to work in safe mode, which is weird and points to a driver issue.....but my 960t boots and works just fine....even highly overclocked.
> 
> I was using BIOS F10a (which is a beta), and tried F9, as GigaBytes site said F9 supported Vishera. Reset the CMOS via jumper and made sure AHCI was set etc.
> 
> I guess I can try a fresh install of Win 7, but I've upgraded/changed processors before and never seen this. If that fails I guess I can exchange it at Microcenter.
> 
> Any suggestions I can try after work?


This is what worked for me. Instead of focusing mostly on the UD3 board and BIOS, google overclocking the 6300, Doing that I was lead to a detailed, very nicely written guide for OC'ing my 6100. Bottom line for mine was, with this BOARD/BIOS, by just tweaking the CPU multiplier only a very small up-tick was possible (3.4 up from the stock 3.3). To go beyond that calls for more than just one multiplier (and voltages) to be changed.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> Hi guys, need a little assistance here. I scanned back about 50 pages and tried various things that were roughly applicable to my prob, no help. Please bare in mind that I'm fairly n00bish to this stuff.
> 
> So, I'm running a 990FXA UD3, an AMD FX8350 processor and 32 gigs of GSKILL Ripjaw 1866 RAM cl9-10-9-28. As I assume is standard, the BIOS is setting the RAM speed at 1333 by default, but I've not had any luck getting the BIOS to accept the RAMs 1866 rated speed. The RAM has XMP profile, and when I set it to either XMP profile 1 or 2 it appears to take on the proper settings with regards to timings and voltage, but I only get a boot fail when I save and exit. Am I missing something? I went to the Gskill website and the RAM package I bought doesn't list this mobo as being compatible, even though the mobo lists that it supports 1866 RAM.
> 
> Any assistance greatly appreciated, if I've left out any important details just let me know and I'll post whatever is needed. Thanks in advance!


OK I had G.Skill Ripjaws-X F3-17000CL, which if I recall correctly had a stock speed of 1866, and now it's Corsair Vengeance, stock speed 1600 and the best I could get out of either was 1600. AND in oder to get that, required,
1. Reset all to "optimum defaults"
2. I got one tick on the CPU muliplier, (3.4 up from 3.3)
3. Profile1 on the memory (and no other tweaks) and the memory popped up to 1600, no boot-fail
4. Make sure "turbo" and the "quick" below that are both off or Auto, (although step 1 above should take care of that)

(I havn't had the time yet to delve into the OC guide I've mentioned in a couple previous posts.)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well I give up!
> 
> I got home checked the board it was much flatter than it was. I even decided to employ the suggestion of putting something under the motherboard. I mounted the board and let it sit for about 10 minutes then pulled it again. I pulled the heatsink off the VRM's and was able to see it was actually able to contact all the chips. It was contacting all of them, I was excited! I remounted everything and fired it up disabled APM and started to run Prime. It made it exactly 4 minutes then started throttling. The copper heatsink was very hot even with my fan on it.
> 
> I've invested a lot of time and energy trying to correct this problem and sadly failed. I'll be replacing this board with probably an Asus Sabertooth, but for now I'll be running it because I'd rather fix my project car than the computer. So after the car is back up I'll be getting rid of this board. I'm sorry I wasn't able to fix the problem gentlemen (and ladies?)


Hey Oz, so... no interest in a UD5 or UD7? Sounds like you're really burned on GB... Which I can understand.
Personally I'm burned on ASUS for reasons that are probably not nearly as good the reasons YOU have to be burned on GB.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

WARPING:

hey oz, (and anyone with a warping issue) I had a problem, may or may not have been a warping thing as never looked for that, but in anycase the "fix" could possibly be utilized.
My back-panel PORTS were slightly mis-aligned with the back-pannel FACE-PLATE. And I was able to correct it enough so that it was no longer a problem by SHORTENING two STANDOFFS. I used a dremel tool to grind a couple milimeters off. Worked like a charm.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> There's like 4 throttling options in the bios. Some to reduce power, some to reduce heat, etc etc. Usually if you put it under full load you won't see it fluctuate. Unless you're overclocking, I wouldn't worry about.


The thing is I do see it fluatuates. Sometimes it goes from 1ghz to like 4.5. Even though everything is stock


----------



## Fordox

I believe i have an apology to make to Khaotic.

He was right about the cpu temperature being tmpin1. checked it with the bios and stuff when the tmpin2 wasnt even close to the cpu temp it gave in the bios.
I am still not sure about tmpin2 but it seems really plausible that it is the NB.

sorry


----------



## Pudfark

@Ozzy

I've been a member of this forum over the last 100 pages of info. I have quietly followed your path daily.
At first, since January, my ud3p was working fine, overclocked by votage 1.47 and multi to 4.6 ghz.

No problems until a couple of days ago....LLC is set to high and now voltages are fluctuating upwards.
CPU is throttling and occasional freeze ups under heavy load. Antec spotfan on the VRMs, since day one.

I believe my MoBo is failing now as yours seems to be. I just wanted to Thank You for taking the time to post,
not only your problems, but your attempts to resolve them. I agree with you that whatever the problem actually is,
Gigabyte ain't, can't or won't fix it. I've been a Gigabyte fan for the last 10 years. No more.

Please consider posting here when you replace your board. I would like to know if you go the Sabretooth route?
You've established a lot of credibility here and I would take your advice.

Again, Thanx Buddy for your time and sharing your results, it helped.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ifyouseekayeU*
> 
> I agree. rot or htpc any...


I might work well for a HTPC with a low wattage CPU. I may look into going that route with it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Hey Oz, so... no interest in a UD5 or UD7? Sounds like you're really burned on GB... Which I can understand.
> Personally I'm burned on ASUS for reasons that are probably not nearly as good the reasons YOU have to be burned on GB.


Well its more or less that this is the replacement for the first UD3 I received and its only functioning marginally better than the first. I've learned over the years that you can continue to buy crap or just go ahead and spend a little extra for a good quality replacement from someone else. I've reached the point with this thing I'd rather get something else. Gigabyte has been less than helpful, and there are multiple people that have been in contact with them over this throttling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> WARPING:
> 
> hey oz, (and anyone with a warping issue) I had a problem, may or may not have been a warping thing as never looked for that, but in anycase the "fix" could possibly be utilized.
> My back-panel PORTS were slightly mis-aligned with the back-pannel FACE-PLATE. And I was able to correct it enough so that it was no longer a problem by SHORTENING two STANDOFFS. I used a dremel tool to grind a couple milimeters off. Worked like a charm.


In my case I need to lift the affected area up. Sounds like yours was bowed up, mine is bowed down. I wedged a bunch of cardboard undermine as well as having the slide hammer on it for 10 hours. I've verified this time the VRM's are making contact with the heatsink. I'm thinking that sadly the damage is done from them not being in contact for so long.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> @Ozzy
> 
> I've been a member of this forum over the last 100 pages of info. I have quietly followed your path daily.
> At first, since January, my ud3p was working fine, overclocked by votage 1.47 and multi to 4.6 ghz.
> 
> No problems until a couple of days ago....LLC is set to high and now voltages are fluctuating upwards.
> CPU is throttling and occasional freeze ups under heavy load. Antec spotfan on the VRMs, since day one.
> 
> I believe my MoBo is failing now as yours seems to be. I just wanted to Thank You for taking the time to post,
> not only your problems, but your attempts to resolve them. I agree with you that whatever the problem actually is,
> Gigabyte ain't, can't or won't fix it. I've been a Gigabyte fan for the last 10 years. No more.
> 
> Please consider posting here when you replace your board. I would like to know if you go the Sabretooth route?
> You've established a lot of credibility here and I would take your advice.
> 
> Again, Thanx Buddy for your time and sharing your results, it helped.


You are welcome sir. I'm glad I was able to try and help. Especially since Gigabyte has been so helpful









It sounds like yours is dying, I'm thinking the damage is already done to mine from not having good heat dissipation for this long. I'll definitely keep posting I kinda like it here. I'll be sure to let everyone know how the new board, is whether it be a Sabertooth or Crosshair V, works out. It'll be a few months. Probably July, well that is if this turd survives that long lol.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well on the bright side, I got it up to 10 minutes of Prime before it throttles. Its raining here and I'm bored so I pulled the board back out and stuffed more cardboard under the VRM's. Like to the point it was a pain to mount the board. The copper heatsink is blazing hot now even with my fan blowing on it. I'm also at the limits of what the Kuhler 620 can handle, CPU temps are staying right at 60C. I just don't think that I can do anything else short of stick it in the freezer.


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> OK I had G.Skill Ripjaws-X F3-17000CL, which if I recall correctly had a stock speed of 1866, and now it's Corsair Vengeance, stock speed 1600 and the best I could get out of either was 1600. AND in oder to get that, required,
> 1. Reset all to "optimum defaults"
> 2. I got one tick on the CPU muliplier, (3.4 up from 3.3)
> 3. Profile1 on the memory (and no other tweaks) and the memory popped up to 1600, no boot-fail
> 4. Make sure "turbo" and the "quick" below that are both off or Auto, (although step 1 above should take care of that)
> 
> (I havn't had the time yet to delve into the OC guide I've mentioned in a couple previous posts.)


Thanks for the response NoNewEgg4Me!









I went through those steps you listed and I'm still not having any luck unfortunately. I'm not 100% sure on what you mean by "CPU multiplier", I took a guess and adjusted the "CPU Clock Ratio" so that it gave me 4.1ghz instead of the stock 4.0ghz. Was that the right setting to adjust? My other options were BCLK Clock Control, CPU Northbridge Frequency, HT Link Frequency and more options under Advanced CPU Core Features.

Also, not sure if it's noteworthy or not, but when I reset to optimum defaults Turbo is on by default and the other one is already on Auto, I set Turbo to Normal manually. When I set the XMP to profile 1 it shows in the greyed out box that it is 1866 (which I'm presuming is the projected change after save and reboot).


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well on the bright side, I got it up to 10 minutes of Prime before it throttles. Its raining here and I'm bored so I pulled the board back out and stuffed more cardboard under the VRM's. Like to the point it was a pain to mount the board. The copper heatsink is blazing hot now even with my fan blowing on it. I'm also at the limits of what the Kuhler 620 can handle, CPU temps are staying right at 60C. I just don't think that I can do anything else short of stick it in the freezer.


You've got around the same CPU temps I got and I can confirm that VRM radiator is hot as hell even with a 80 mm slim fan blowing directly at it.
I found that the fan must blow especially on the upper part of the VRM HS.
*Right now I am not experiencing anymore throttling during short 4 to 15 minute OCCT sessions. I'll keep you updated, don't lose faith. I can tell you by now: any 990FX board under 150$ / EUR WILL THROTTLE!*

One more thing: try lowering NB voltage in BIOS to 1.05 - 1.065 then test again.

UPDATE:
Throttles again @ 1.45 V after 6 minutes BUT.. if I increase the RPM of the VRM fan from 2100 to 2600 RPM the throttling intervals increase from 15 seconds to 1 minute or more..
So, increase the airflow on the VRM area.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> You've got around the same CPU temps I got and I can confirm that VRM radiator is hot as hell even with a 80 mm slim fan blowing directly at it.
> I found that the fan must blow especially on the upper part of the VRM HS.
> *Right now I am not experiencing anymore throttling during short 4 to 15 minute OCCT sessions. I'll keep you updated, don't lose faith. I can tell you by now: any 990FX board under 150$ / EUR WILL THROTTLE!*
> 
> One more thing: try lowering NB voltage in BIOS to 1.05 - 1.065 then test again.
> 
> UPDATE:
> Throttles again @ 1.45 V after 6 minutes BUT.. if I increase the RPM of the VRM fan from 2100 to 2600 RPM the throttling intervals increase from 15 seconds to 1 minute or more..
> So, increase the airflow on the VRM area.


Ok I pulled out my 620's radiator, its right over top the VRM's. I removed my little squirrel cage fan blowing on the VRM's. I took a fan from a stock AMD heatpipe CPU cooler and with some creative engineering, was able to mount it directly on top of the copper VRM heatsink. And I mean directly on top, just like a CPU fan. It also speeds up with load I've discovered, that little thing gets loud! I can hear it over the six 120mm fans I have in the case! However, my CPU temps have dropped 4-6*C and my voltage is staying at 1.404 with occasional jumps to 1.416. I'm still running Prime and I'm coming up on 20 minutes with no throttling!

Well poop as I was typing this up it started throttling. So 20 minutes is the record for me. I just can't evacuate enough heat off of the VRM's I guess. I'm wondering if they used subpar VRM chips on these boards or if mine are hurt from the no contact issue I had.

Quick question. I'm aiming for 1.39v for my CPU. I have yet to achieve that. I can 1.38 or I can get 1.404/1.416v. This is one thing about this board that twists my nipples. I can't just pick a voltage I want... It didn't start throttling until the CPU voltage got up to 1.416. It was quite content at 1.404 and I believe my CPU will be stable in the 1.39v area if I could just get it set to that! Have any of you guys been able to get that and if so what are your voltage and LLC settings?

*EDIT*

Ok to not make more posts I'm just going to edit this post. Prime has been going for over 45 minutes now and it has only throttled 2 times. Those were when I made the original post here. In that time I've cleaned all my filters just because I was there and upped the fan speed on the VRM fan. It sounds like an air raid siren but the plus side is no thottling! I think I may have it licked now! I still need to get a better cooler for the CPU. I'm just using AIDA to make it easier to spot throttling. Its not actually doing anything other than that.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

1 hour with no throttling! Finally! Tons of hardwork and scheming has paid off. My max temp is 66C but around that time I was fiddling around in the case. When I wasn't in the case messing around it never went above 58C.

There is really no excuse for having to do all this work to get it to not throttle. Gigabyte really dropped the ball on this board. Did I mention that APM mode was never turned off this run either? So that means APM mode and the new BIOS is not going to fix the thottling issues. You guys experiencing thottling, I really recommend pulling the board out and checking to see if you have warping. If so stuff cardboard or foam under the VRM area of the board. The copper cooler is a must also. Then as Sabinus said, AIRFLOW is key, so grab a good quality fan to mount directly over top of the copper cooler. The AMD heatpipe CPU fan seems to work good.

My CPU is at 4.5ghz, I obviously do not have enough cooling head room to push further and see if there is no thottling at higher voltages/clock speeds. Honestly I would be hard pressed to say that it can handle anymore than 4.5 with an 8 core FX CPU since I had to go through so much to get this out of it. If any of you guys try it PLEASE let us know how high you are able to go. The more information we have in the community about this board the better!

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/YES_zpsae265a6e.jpg.html


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> 1 hour with no throttling! Finally! Tons of hardwork and scheming has paid off. My max temp is 66C but around that time I was fiddling around in the case. When I wasn't in the case messing around it never went above 58C.
> 
> There is really no excuse for having to do all this work to get it to not throttle. Gigabyte really dropped the ball on this board. Did I mention that APM mode was never turned off this run either? So that means APM mode and the new BIOS is not going to fix the thottling issues. You guys experiencing thottling, I really recommend pulling the board out and checking to see if you have warping. If so stuff cardboard or foam under the VRM area of the board. The copper cooler is a must also. Then as Sabinus said, AIRFLOW is key, so grab a good quality fan to mount directly over top of the copper cooler. The AMD heatpipe CPU fan seems to work good.
> 
> My CPU is at 4.5ghz, I obviously do not have enough cooling head room to push further and see if there is no thottling at higher voltages/clock speeds. Honestly I would be hard pressed to say that it can handle anymore than 4.5 with an 8 core FX CPU since I had to go through so much to get this out of it. If any of you guys try it PLEASE let us know how high you are able to go. The more information we have in the community about this board the better!
> 
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/YES_zpsae265a6e.jpg.html


good job man









im glad to hear it worked out well for u









with my UD3 i was able to get 4.8 at first but 5ghz is possible too if u watch the temps on CPU and VRM because i blew up my board because of lack of knowledge and too much voltage and heat so BE CARE FULL

now with my UD5 i can push everything much higher like the RAM i set from 1866 to 2341mhz and the HT link goes up to 2750 and CPUNB is at 2510 now with 1.46 volts and does not get hotter than 60c so that is way below the max of 80c what i believe.

look at my score u got with my setup


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> 1 hour with no throttling! Finally!
> ................


I'm happy you sorted out this problem too. I am stuck at 4.400 Mhz stable with FX-8320. Seems that I need some extra voltage compared to your 8350.
Can you tell me your ambient/room temperature? It's very important for comparison/adjustments. Also, everybody should post either CPU temp & Ambient temp or Ambient+Delta temperature format.
We cannot compare 20 deg Celsius room temp with 30 deg Celsius.
One more thing.. when Priming monitor all 8 core speeds with AOD to see if any of them is dropping speed during stress.. I don't see AIDA monitor all 8 cores ..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Its about 76C in this room.

I just have AIDA set to monitor Core voltage. That is all I need to know if its throttling. Mine loves to drop voltage to .9v when it starts throttling. All the cores drop to 1575mhz when it happens.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Pics man, we want pics! ;D


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Of what? The rigging I have going on holding the fan into place? lol

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/IMG_20130504_205908_zps9e855989.jpg.html


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> I'm happy you sorted out this problem too. I am stuck at 4.400 Mhz stable with FX-8320. Seems that I need some extra voltage compared to your 8350.
> Can you tell me your ambient/room temperature? It's very important for comparison/adjustments. Also, everybody should post either CPU temp & Ambient temp or Ambient+Delta temperature format.
> We cannot compare 20 deg Celsius room temp with 30 deg Celsius.
> One more thing.. when Priming monitor all 8 core speeds with AOD to see if any of them is dropping speed during stress.. I don't see AIDA monitor all 8 cores ..


I just ran Prime for 30 minutes with AOD open just for you. No throttling at all. No voltage drops, no cores dropped from 4.5ghz.


----------



## miklkit

76C?? How about 26C?









I am way behind in both the learning curve and the hardware curve. I tried Prime 95 but couldn't figure out how to make it work so tried OCCT and that works for me. It has 3 test modes. Large data set, medium data set, and small data set. My air cooled 8350 runs at approx. 45C with the large and medium sets but the small data set sends it to the 65C redline in 1-3 minutes. Ambient is approx 26C. This is with the cpu set at 4.5ghz with the multiplier only. During the test the cpu vcore goes from 1.344 to 1.404 on its own. In the real world the most stressfull game I play pushes it to 55C + -.
I have convinced myself that TMPIN1 is the VRM because it runs the hottest, a few degrees more than TMPIN2, which is exactly the same as the cpu package. This is in CPUID Hardware Monitor.

About cooling the vrm, I have 3 -120mm fans in that corner of the case now and will be upgrading soon. It has the copper cooler already.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 76C?? How about 26C?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am way behind in both the learning curve and the hardware curve. I tried Prime 95 but couldn't figure out how to make it work so tried OCCT and that works for me. It has 3 test modes. Large data set, medium data set, and small data set. My air cooled 8350 runs at approx. 45C with the large and medium sets but the small data set sends it to the 65C redline in 1-3 minutes. Ambient is approx 26C. This is with the cpu set at 4.5ghz with the multiplier only. During the test the cpu vcore goes from 1.344 to 1.404 on its own. In the real world the most stressfull game I play pushes it to 55C + -.
> I have convinced myself that TMPIN1 is the VRM because it runs the hottest, a few degrees more than TMPIN2, which is exactly the same as the cpu package. This is in CPUID Hardware Monitor.
> 
> About cooling the vrm, I have 3 -120mm fans in that corner of the case now and will be upgrading soon. It has the copper cooler already.


lol yeah 26C, I was thinking its like 77-78F in here and got my numbers mixed up.

Small data set is the equivalent of small FFT in Prime95, basically its CPU only test. Medium is the equivilent of In-place and Large is Blend. I like using Medium to ensure stability of the system overall. Small is useful for finding max temps. Large tests huge amounts of RAM so that would be decent at finding RAM instabilities.

My TMPIN1 is actually about 2 degrees cooler than TMPIN2. I honestly don't know which one is what anymore. I've given up on them lol.


----------



## miklkit

I've been tinkering with OCCT some more and now I scared myself. Could some kind soul interpret these screenies? They are with the small, medium, and large data sets.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I've been tinkering with OCCT some more and now I scared myself. Could some kind soul interpret these screenies? They are with the small, medium, and large data sets.


The first shot looks like OCCT thinks the CPU overheated. I haven't used OCCT in quite a long time so maybe some others can chime in, there may be a setting that you can change as your max temp. 65C is over AMD's recommended 62C so technically the CPU is to hot.

The second and third screen shots basically are saying your overclock is unstable. To remedy that you would need to up CPU voltage and tweak memory settings. However since you are already running very hot (and that could even be the cause of the failure) you don't want to add anymore voltage. If anything you want to back your overclock off some.

What CPU cooler are you using? You are generating more heat than its able to get rid of.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> Thanks for the response NoNewEgg4Me!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went through those steps you listed and I'm still not having any luck unfortunately. I'm not 100% sure on what you mean by "CPU multiplier", I took a guess and adjusted the "CPU Clock Ratio" so that it gave me 4.1ghz instead of the stock 4.0ghz. Was that the right setting to adjust? My other options were BCLK Clock Control, CPU Northbridge Frequency, HT Link Frequency and more options under Advanced CPU Core Features.
> 
> Also, not sure if it's noteworthy or not, but when I reset to optimum defaults Turbo is on by default and the other one is already on Auto, I set Turbo to Normal manually. When I set the XMP to profile 1 it shows in the greyed out box that it is 1866 (which I'm presuming is the projected change after save and reboot).


I was getting boot-fail on Memory-Profile1 when I had the turbo and quick on. and I got good post up when I shut those two down.
What I don't recall precisely is if I had the CPU mutilpier/(frequency) nudged up one already or if I did that AFTER posting successfully once with the profile1.
I don't have the UD3 board in front of me at the moment, but "clock ratio"? I could be wrong on this but that sounds like a either different MOBO andor BIOS. OR you're on the wrong setting. I'm pretty sure the one you want says "frequecy" and it's at the top of it's section. I assume if you're on this thread you're running a 990fxa mobo?

Also on the memory, under advanced/voltage settings you can tweak the memory voltage up like half a volt. Stock is 1.5, but my Gskill was actually (on the package lable) listed as 1.6v
This setting allows for I think 0.01 increments so you can try like 1.53 or 1.54 if your sticks are rated at 1.5. It shouldn't hurt them and it might help.
I had my Gskill at 1.6 but I was never sure whether or not it was making any difference.
My current Corsair mem is at 1.5v no tweak save the profile1 and it popped right up 1600 no muss no fuss.

Also, just FYI, I I'm running a FX6100 proc. Not sure if that makes a difference but I wouldn't be surprised if it did.
LASTLY If your stock CPU speed is 4.0, I would expect 4.1 to be pretty low hanging fruit.


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I've been tinkering with OCCT some more and now I scared myself. Could some kind soul interpret these screenies? They are with the small, medium, and large data sets.


Yeah I am going to go with Ozzyrulez on this one. The cpu temp is probably getting too high. Core 1 error generally a vcore bump in either direction. That chip is a good clocker. I am still new here but if you have mismatched ram you could get some error do to that. Try and find some better cooling even if it is just a entry level water cooler or something.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> You've got around the same CPU temps I got and I can confirm that VRM radiator is hot as hell even with a 80 mm slim fan blowing directly at it.
> I found that the fan must blow especially on the upper part of the VRM HS.
> *Right now I am not experiencing anymore throttling during short 4 to 15 minute OCCT sessions. I'll keep you updated, don't lose faith. I can tell you by now: any 990FX board under 150$ / EUR WILL THROTTLE!*
> 
> One more thing: try lowering NB voltage in BIOS to 1.05 - 1.065 then test again.
> 
> UPDATE:
> Throttles again @ 1.45 V after 6 minutes BUT.. if I increase the RPM of the VRM fan from 2100 to 2600 RPM the throttling intervals increase from 15 seconds to 1 minute or more..
> So, increase the airflow on the VRM area.


Aw-ite, the more I follow this whole warping/throttling discussion, I'm starting to get nervious...

Stop me if I'm wrong but,
am I under a delulsion that this won't effect me?
I've been assuming it won't for the following reasons.

#1. My lil'ol' 95w 6100 proc. --It sounds like everyone having the problem is running an 8000 series proc.
2. By comparission I'm shooting for a pretty conservative OC, (no more than 3.6 up from the stock 3.3)
3. my nice "gamers-case" affording me (I assumed) well more cooling than this build, (and my desires) would ever ask of it.

Wrong? It _*almost sounds like*_ I'm doomed-long-term whether I OC (at all) or not ! Please Tell me _*that's*_ not true!

One altered conclusion I've already come to is (regardless of OC or not) the stock CPU cooler will have to go AND the 3rd
crossbar mounted case fan will not be optional or allowed to be "either or" vs the larger CPU cooler. I will have to make
BOTH happen. Over-reaction? yes? no?

AND MAYBE, Since so few (if any) you are running 6000 series perhaps it's hard for you to say.... (?)

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Fordox

it is quite funny though, i have no throttling issues on my rev 1.0 and i am running on 4,53 ghz with my 8150.

the heatsinks are really hot but i have not expirienced any throttling in LinX and under prime95.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> it is quite funny though, i have no throttling issues on my rev 1.0 and i am running on 4,53 ghz with my 8150.
> 
> the heatsinks are really hot but i have not expirienced any throttling in LinX and under prime95.


Fordox, yeah, funny if that's a UD3. (Just not funny "ha ha").
You have a UD5 or UD7 right? ....Not that I have any intention of pushing my 6100 anywhere near that far....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> it is quite funny though, i have no throttling issues on my rev 1.0 and i am running on 4,53 ghz with my 8150.
> 
> the heatsinks are really hot but i have not expirienced any throttling in LinX and under prime95.


Sorry my NOOBad.... I just noticed that pulldown arrow next to "nocturnal madness" or I wouldn't have asked.

SO THAT cleared up, begs the question, does that then mean GB may have actually fouled it up MORE as they went along?


----------



## spypet

I want to RAID1 mirror 2 AHCI mode ST3000DM001 drives hosting two 1.5TB NTFS partitions.
This RAID1 mirror drive pair will be used for Data & Backup only - I boot Win7ult off 1 SSD.
using my GA-990FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.0) where should i best set up this RAID1 and WHY;
2(6) SATA using the South Bridge Bios
2(2) SATA using the Marvell Controller
2(6) SATA using Win7 Software RAID1
Is there any Bios version issue I should be aware of as I have not updated it beyond FA.
_please don't debate the generic merits of a hardware vs software RAID1, or HDD choices.
I am only interested in the merits and idiosyncrasies pertaining to this particular motherboard._
my concerns are NOT compatibility nor performance. *my ONLY concern is ease of recovery.*
when one drive fails; which RAID1 method above can i continue to use the remaining HDD data,
then later remirror a new replacement drive into the pair without having to start from scratch,
_meaning that the remaining drive data not be lost in the process of remirroring an old+new HDD._
_assume any replacement drive will be the exact same model and capacity._
a minor concern is mirror partition rebuilding after an abnormal shutdown.
which of those three RAID1 implementations will rebuild safest and fastest?
_and yes, i am aware that any RAID0 is not a replacement for secondary device data backups._

here's a good read regarding the practical differences between software and hardware RAID1;
http://kmwoley.com/blog/?p=429


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Sorry my NOOBad.... I just noticed that pulldown arrow next to "nocturnal madness" or I wouldn't have asked.
> 
> SO THAT cleared up, begs the question, does that then mean GB may have actually fouled it up MORE as they went along?


i have no idea, but it is pointing in the way of the LLC intergration... maybe the LLC circuitry isn't well developed?


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Its about 76F in this room.
> 
> I just have AIDA set to monitor Core voltage. That is all I need to know if its throttling. Mine loves to drop voltage to .9v when it starts throttling. All the cores drop to 1575mhz when it happens.


Hmm, unfortunately I have around 29-30 degrees C (86 F) in my room.. it is an early summer here in Bucharest with over 30 degrees outside for a whole week already. I didn't start air conditioning yet.
So at 57 C you have ~33 degrees C over ambient. I have maximum 63 degrees, so it is ~33 degrees over ambient too, but with 1.44 V. It still throttles but only after 20 minutes or so due to bad case airflow and material (old Thermaltake Xaser III full steel case that warms quickly and cools down very slowly). When I touch the back-plate area it feels very warm, almost hot during stress!

Just curious though, would it be insane to cross-flash revision 3 board with rev. 1.1. non- UEFI Bios. Maybe we get rid of throttling ?

Update: when I lower the ambient by 1-2 degrees (air conditioning).. the throttle stops.. so it proves once again that VRM area temp is the trigger for throttling. But why doesn't it have a sensor to help us watch for that threshold instead of praying for it to stop?
These are my 1 hour readings so far.


----------



## Recursion

I have asked GBT about new beta bios but they don't want to give me. I have asked about better Unlock, LLC, OC and memory support. In the meanwhile I could grab an AMD FX-4170 off e-bay.


----------



## Pudfark

@Oz

You got some stones pardner...and still hanging in there.









I'm gonna try your route pretty close with the VRM cooling thingy.
Apparently, you have not smoked your VRMs and that may hold
true for me as well.

I like your photo of the "rigged" VRM fan. Reminds me of "baling
wire, duct tape and your addition, zip ties." Which proves damn
near anything can be fixed/modded with them. Thanx.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> I want to RAID1 mirror 2 AHCI mode ST3000DM001 drives hosting two 1.5TB NTFS partitions.
> This RAID1 mirror drive pair will be used for Data & Backup only - I boot Win7ult off 1 SSD.
> using my GA-990FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.0) where should i best set up this RAID1 and WHY;
> 2(6) SATA using the South Bridge Bios
> 2(2) SATA using the Marvell Controller
> 2(6) SATA using Win7 Software RAID1
> Is there any Bios version issue I should be aware of as I have not updated it beyond FA.
> _please don't debate the generic merits of a hardware vs software RAID1, or HDD choices.
> I am only interested in the merits and idiosyncrasies pertaining to this particular motherboard._
> my concerns are NOT compatibility nor performance. *my ONLY concern is ease of recovery.*
> when one drive fails; which RAID1 method above can i continue to use the remaining HDD data,
> then later remirror a new replacement drive into the pair without having to start from scratch,
> _meaning that the remaining drive data not be lost in the process of remirroring an old+new HDD._
> _assume any replacement drive will be the exact same model and capacity._
> a minor concern is mirror partition rebuilding after an abnormal shutdown.
> which of those three RAID1 implementations will rebuild safest and fastest?
> _and yes, i am aware that any RAID0 is not a replacement for secondary device data backups._
> 
> here's a good read regarding the practical differences between software and hardware RAID1;
> http://kmwoley.com/blog/?p=429


I would do it off of the SB controller. I'm running RAID0 on two WD Black 640's using the AMD RAID Option ROM. I've been doing it for years and have never had a failure. I set my array up on my previous board and then tossed the drives on this board. This board found the array with no hassle. Mine is in RAID0 so RAID1 should be even more stable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> Hmm, unfortunately I have around 29-30 degrees C (86 F) in my room.. it is an early summer here in Bucharest with over 30 degrees outside for a whole week already. I didn't start air conditioning yet.
> So at 57 C you have ~33 degrees C over ambient. I have maximum 63 degrees, so it is ~33 degrees over ambient too, but with 1.44 V. It still throttles but only after 20 minutes or so due to bad case airflow and material (old Thermaltake Xaser III full steel case that warms quickly and cools down very slowly). When I touch the back-plate area it feels very warm, almost hot during stress!
> 
> Just curious though, would it be insane to cross-flash revision 3 board with rev. 1.1. non- UEFI Bios. Maybe we get rid of throttling ?
> 
> Update: when I lower the ambient by 1-2 degrees (air conditioning).. the throttle stops.. so it proves once again that VRM area temp is the trigger for throttling. But why doesn't it have a sensor to help us watch for that threshold instead of praying for it to stop?
> These are my 1 hour readings so far.


Its that hot there already? I live in Florida its been up to the 30C area a few times in the past few weeks, I'm a good bit further south than you! I have been running the AC though.

I don't believe we can flash a standard BIOS onto it. I think, I could be wrong, but I think its a different type chip.

It seems our VRM's are very heat sensitive. I really wish there was a way to monitor the temps. I guess we could always use an IR thermometer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> @Oz
> 
> You got some stones pardner...and still hanging in there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna try your route pretty close with the VRM cooling thingy.
> Apparently, you have not smoked your VRMs and that may hold
> true for me as well.
> 
> I like your photo of the "rigged" VRM fan. Reminds me of "baling
> wire, duct tape and your addition, zip ties." Which proves damn
> near anything can be fixed/modded with them. Thanx.


I have found that zip ties come in handy for both cars and computers! I have a big 700pc assortment package of them lol.

I'm pretty surprised this thing has survived. Not so much from the rigging as the massive heat those VRM's had to see being under the heatsink making no contact. I'll give Gigabyte credit there, they used tough VRM's.


----------



## miklkit

Thanks guys. The cooler is an Arctic A30 that is not moving enough air. I won't be able to go to water until next fall when SS kicks in, so for now more and better fans is the answer. I took a quick look and for now the Corsair H100I looks like it will fit my case.
About OCCT, I manually set the redline to 65C. In normal use it has never gone over 57C and in the other 2 tests is stayed under 50C. I will play with voltage and such now, but games run much better at this setting than at stock.


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> I was getting boot-fail on Memory-Profile1 when I had the turbo and quick on. and I got good post up when I shut those two down.
> What I don't recall precisely is if I had the CPU mutilpier/(frequency) nudged up one already or if I did that AFTER posting successfully once with the profile1.
> I don't have the UD3 board in front of me at the moment, but "clock ratio"? I could be wrong on this but that sounds like a either different MOBO andor BIOS. OR you're on the wrong setting. I'm pretty sure the one you want says "frequecy" and it's at the top of it's section. I assume if you're on this thread you're running a 990fxa mobo?
> 
> Also on the memory, under advanced/voltage settings you can tweak the memory voltage up like half a volt. Stock is 1.5, but my Gskill was actually (on the package lable) listed as 1.6v
> This setting allows for I think 0.01 increments so you can try like 1.53 or 1.54 if your sticks are rated at 1.5. It shouldn't hurt them and it might help.
> I had my Gskill at 1.6 but I was never sure whether or not it was making any difference.
> My current Corsair mem is at 1.5v no tweak save the profile1 and it popped right up 1600 no muss no fuss.
> 
> Also, just FYI, I I'm running a FX6100 proc. Not sure if that makes a difference but I wouldn't be surprised if it did.
> LASTLY If your stock CPU speed is 4.0, I would expect 4.1 to be pretty low hanging fruit.


Yep, I'm running a 990fxa ud3 mobo. I'm running the BIOS version that came on the install disc, I think there is a newer version but I'm inexperienced at flashing BIOS so I haven't upgraded to the latest version. Where I'm adjusting the CPU frequency is under M.I.T. section, Advanced Frequency Setting subsection, in there my options in order are BCLK Clock Control, CPU Northbridge Frequency, HT Link Frequency and then CPU Clock Ratio. Just beneath that is CPU Frequency, but it is greyed out and is changed by adjusting the CPU Clock Ratio. The multiplier for it is set by default at 20 and is moved in .5 increments... I tried it at 20.5 and 21 (giving a 4.1ghz and 4.2ghz number under CPU Frequency) along with the other setting changes, still boot fail. I also tried manually setting the RAM multiplier down so that it was giving me 1600 instead of 1866 (still in XMP profile 1 though), that didn't work either.

BTW the RAM is listed at 1.5v on the package.

Could upgrading the BIOS help?


----------



## sabinus

@*OzzyRuleZ*
Yeah, and it's been like 29-31 degrees for the last 7 days and, according to Accuweather it will stay over 27 degrees for the next 7.
It's the earlies summer here in decades... temps are 5-10 degrees above normal..
As for Bios cross-flash I just wait until someone has the guts to try.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> @*OzzyRuleZ*
> Yeah, and it's been like 29-31 degrees for the last 7 days and, according to Accuweather it will stay over 27 degrees for the next 7.
> It's the earlies summer here in decades... temps are 5-10 degrees bigger than normal..
> As for Bios cross-flash I just wait until someone has the guts to try.


Not even I am willing to try that lol.

I think I am going to email Gigabyte support with my findings and how to solve the throttling. You know since their engineers failed to do it









Well this is what I sent them. We'll see what they have to say.

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte1_zpsee5c7fae.jpg.html


----------



## Hellsrage

Yeah I also emailed Gigabyte with your findings asking if their people have also discovered that the issue is a hardware one and not software. I also linked to this thread, well see what happens, but I guess for now this board is just a failure.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Good I'm glad others are telling them. The more people that confront them about it the better. If its just me all they have to do is ignore me, but if there are lots then its a bit harder to ignore.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> Yep, I'm running a 990fxa ud3 mobo. I'm running the BIOS version that came on the install disc, I think there is a newer version but I'm inexperienced at flashing BIOS so I haven't upgraded to the latest version. Where I'm adjusting the CPU frequency is under M.I.T. section, Advanced Frequency Setting subsection, in there my options in order are BCLK Clock Control, CPU Northbridge Frequency, HT Link Frequency and then CPU Clock Ratio. Just beneath that is CPU Frequency, but it is greyed out and is changed by adjusting the CPU Clock Ratio. The multiplier for it is set by default at 20 and is moved in .5 increments... I tried it at 20.5 and 21 (giving a 4.1ghz and 4.2ghz number under CPU Frequency) along with the other setting changes, still boot fail. I also tried manually setting the RAM multiplier down so that it was giving me 1600 instead of 1866 (still in XMP profile 1 though), that didn't work either.
> 
> BTW the RAM is listed at 1.5v on the package.
> 
> Could upgrading the BIOS help?


In reverse order,
BOIS, If you haven't flashed it yet you're running the BIOS that came on the BOARD. The Disk that came with it contains CHIPSET drivers which are about communicating with WINDOWS (or whatever opsys) and are quite different from the BIOS. If your BIOS version is at least FA you probably won't gain anything from an update, but that said it's nothing to be afraid of.
just make sure its a 2-character BIOS version (like "FA") 3 or more long indicates a "beta" BIOS, which I suspect is not for you. I believe "FC" is the latest.

CPU, I just looked at mine you are correct the "clock ratio" setting is where you do that, the Frequency line below it is merely reporting the effect of your change or where it's currently at. Mine is greyed out too.
BCLK Clock Control, CPU Northbridge Frequency, HT Link Frequency on mine (for now) are all still on AUTO. Why you can't get 20.5 when stock is only 20 seems odd to me. But you have different processor than I do so that's probably a factor. Maybe your's isn't the right "edition" for OC'ing. Dunno. *Maybe one of the smarter-than-me-guys here could chime in on that one.*

MEMORY: this is quite vexing, if you hadn't already told me you had G-Skill Ripjaws my first suspicion would be RAM/mobo compatibility. But I Happen to know this board and that ram are a good match. Make sure you're you have the sicks in slots 1 and 2 and not 3 and 4. In the old days slot 1 was the closest one to the CPU. Nowadays it's the reverse. Slot one the most distant from the CPU. I suspect the CPU clock ratio not taking a single tick is somehow related to the problem you're having with the memory. The answer to one will probably fix the other too.
You've probably already tried this but just in case, (credit upfront to OZ on this thought) Put *all* settings back to stock/or AUTO, (optimum defaults) to get it posting again, boot all the way in to Windows, make sure it's happy, and then try just the memory profile1, manually down-tick it one to 1600, then turn off TURBO. Everything else, especially CPU at stock. If that doesn't post you may have a defective stick. You can try re-seating the memory. Flip them while you're at it. ONCE you get it posting, memory at 1600, you can re-start and try giving the CPU 20.5
If I recall correctly I had to do them one at at time like that on mine. Memory solo, then the CPU.
A Wiser man than I once told me that.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> OK, the more I follow this whole warping/throttling discussion, I'm starting to get nervous...
> 
> Stop me if I'm wrong but,
> am I under a delusion that this won't effect me?
> I've been assuming it won't for the following reasons.
> 
> #1. My lil'ol' 95w 6100 proc. --It sounds like everyone having the problem is running an 8000 series proc.
> 2. By comparison I'm shooting for a pretty conservative OC, (no more than 3.6 up from the stock 3.3)
> 3. my nice "gamers-case" affording me (I assumed) well more cooling than this build, (and my desires) would ever ask of it.
> 
> Wrong? It _*almost sounds like*_ I'm doomed-long-term whether I OC (at all) or not ! Please Tell me _*that's*_ not true!
> 
> One altered conclusion I've already come to is (regardless of OC or not) the stock CPU cooler will have to go AND the 3rd
> crossbar mounted case fan will not be optional or allowed to be "either or" vs the larger CPU cooler. I will have to make
> BOTH happen. Over-reaction? yes? no?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


SOOOOO I guess this is probably a dumb question?, but I'm still like, you know, no joke man.
Can I assume no-news is good news?
With my specific HW and my target OC do I have anything to worry about long-term-temps&warping-wise?
a simple "yes" or "no" is fine.

any input as always will be much appreciated.
Thanks


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> Yep, I'm running a 990fxa ud3 mobo. I'm running the BIOS version that came on the install disc, I think there is a newer version but I'm inexperienced at flashing BIOS so I haven't upgraded to the latest version. Where I'm adjusting the CPU frequency is under M.I.T. section, Advanced Frequency Setting subsection, in there my options in order are BCLK Clock Control, CPU Northbridge Frequency, HT Link Frequency and then CPU Clock Ratio. Just beneath that is CPU Frequency, but it is greyed out and is changed by adjusting the CPU Clock Ratio. The multiplier for it is set by default at 20 and is moved in .5 increments... I tried it at 20.5 and 21 (giving a 4.1ghz and 4.2ghz number under CPU Frequency) along with the other setting changes, still boot fail. I also tried manually setting the RAM multiplier down so that it was giving me 1600 instead of 1866 (still in XMP profile 1 though), that didn't work either.
> 
> BTW the RAM is listed at 1.5v on the package.
> 
> Could upgrading the BIOS help?


I'm not sure if updating the BIOS would help. It definitely won't hurt, there are various fixes and such in them.

start with putting the RAM on the lowest possible multiplier and up the CAS latency to 10 or so. Then you can bump up the CPU multi and see if you boot. Basically when overclocking you want to do one thing at a time. The less changes you make the easier it is to pin point the issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> SOOOOO I guess this is probably a dumb question?, but I'm still like, you know, no joke man.
> Can I assume no-news is good news?
> With my specific HW and my target OC do I have anything to worry about long-term-temps&warping-wise?
> a simple "yes" or "no" is fine.
> 
> any input as always will be much appreciated.
> Thanks


Its hard to say man. Honestly though it looks to be that only the 8 core CPU's are pulling enough power to cause the problem. I think I would add a fan to the VRM area just to be safe in your case. If you have the 15 dollars to spend the copper heatsink is very nice and wouldn't hurt to have.


----------



## Cores

It's excellent now that you've found the root cause of the problem, so we are no longer left guessing.








Though with me reading this thread for the past month, it has put me off buying the UD3. What would be a good board for a 8320 at around the same price of the UD3?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well it seems like the UD5 comes highly recommended if you want a Gigabyte board. The Sabertooth seems to be as highly recommended as well. I'd definitely steer clear of the UD3 until Gigabyte fixes the issue.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well it seems like the UD5 comes highly recommended if you want a Gigabyte board. The Sabertooth seems to be as highly recommended as well. I'd definitely steer clear of the UD3 until Gigabyte fixes the issue.


Totally agree with that, but be prepared to spend extra 30-50 USD/EUR on either of them.

Also, please give me that Gigabyte email address to do what I consider right now my duty and tell them what we've found, after a few weeks of testing, tweaking and improvising, basically the same thing you said to them. And of course pointing them to this angry yet enthusiast community that loses faith in their products.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

This is where I went to submit mine.

http://www.gigabyte.us/support-downloads/technical-support.aspx

Put in your country and it should bring you to a form to fill out with your feedback/question that you submit.


----------



## sabinus

Thanx, I did it. I almost feel like I did the right thing or something ..

My message:
_I have the same problem that most FXA 990 UD3 motherboard owners encounter: throttling.
It's not fair to buy a top AMD CPU, pair it with your product and then have to improvise VRM cooler by inserting a noisy 80 mm fan on top of the VRM heat-sink.
Is it a design flaw of the VRM's that triggers this throttling even at rated 4 Ghz Boost speed stress testing ?
Why revision 1.0 of the same board doesn't have this issue?
Does "High Temperature Protection" means "High Temperature Prevention" ? because it seems that during stress testing, some unknown sensor triggers CPU throttling no matter what you disable in BIOS or AMD Overdrive.
Is this "unknown sensor" in fact a VRM temp sensor which is not visible by any software or BIOS monitoring feature?
Will any new Bios version correct or at least make any improvements for us, the customers that trusted Gigabyte in the past?
Here is a link to a thread dedicated to FXA 990 UDx boards, where you can see other people complaining about the same problem.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club_


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Not even I am willing to try that lol.
> 
> I think I am going to email Gigabyte support with my findings and how to solve the throttling. You know since their engineers failed to do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well this is what I sent them. We'll see what they have to say.
> 
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte1_zpsee5c7fae.jpg.html


hehe good email dude









maybe they listen now to fix the problem.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I just hope now they fix the issue since I finally proved what it is. At the very least they should send everyone with a UD3 Rev 3 the UD5 NB/VRM heatpipe coolers and a fan to mount on it. Other than that I don't know how they would address this short of replacing all the boards. I don't know how they could have overlooked this. The only plausible explanation is they started getting VRM chips from a different supplier and these are much more heat sensitive than what they were previously using.


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> In reverse order,
> BOIS, If you haven't flashed it yet you're running the BIOS that came on the BOARD. The Disk that came with it contains CHIPSET drivers which are about communicating with WINDOWS (or whatever opsys) and are quite different from the BIOS. If your BIOS version is at least FA you probably won't gain anything from an update, but that said it's nothing to be afraid of.
> just make sure its a 2-character BIOS version (like "FA") 3 or more long indicates a "beta" BIOS, which I suspect is not for you. I believe "FC" is the latest.
> 
> CPU, I just looked at mine you are correct the "clock ratio" setting is where you do that, the Frequency line below it is merely reporting the effect of your change or where it's currently at. Mine is greyed out too.
> BCLK Clock Control, CPU Northbridge Frequency, HT Link Frequency on mine (for now) are all still on AUTO. Why you can't get 20.5 when stock is only 20 seems odd to me. But you have different processor than I do so that's probably a factor. Maybe your's isn't the right "edition" for OC'ing. Dunno. *Maybe one of the smarter-than-me-guys here could chime in on that one.*
> 
> MEMORY: this is quite vexing, if you hadn't already told me you had G-Skill Ripjaws my first suspicion would be RAM/mobo compatibility. But I Happen to know this board and that ram are a good match. Make sure you're you have the sicks in slots 1 and 2 and not 3 and 4. In the old days slot 1 was the closest one to the CPU. Nowadays it's the reverse. Slot one the most distant from the CPU. I suspect the CPU clock ratio not taking a single tick is somehow related to the problem you're having with the memory. The answer to one will probably fix the other too.
> You've probably already tried this but just in case, (credit upfront to OZ on this thought) Put *all* settings back to stock/or AUTO, (optimum defaults) to get it posting again, boot all the way in to Windows, make sure it's happy, and then try just the memory profile1, manually down-tick it one to 1600, then turn off TURBO. Everything else, especially CPU at stock. If that doesn't post you may have a defective stick. You can try re-seating the memory. Flip them while you're at it. ONCE you get it posting, memory at 1600, you can re-start and try giving the CPU 20.5
> If I recall correctly I had to do them one at at time like that on mine. Memory solo, then the CPU.
> A Wiser man than I once told me that.


First off, thanks NoNewEgg4Me and OzzyRuleZ for taking the time to help out, much appreciated!!








To backtrack slightly for clarity's sake, I'm running 4x8gb sticks of GSKILL Ripjaw RAM and all the sticks are showing up as being there giving me the proper total of 32gb in BIOS and in system information. Also I am able to adjust the CPU Clock ratio by 0.5 increments, 20 = 4000, 20.5 = 4100, 21 = 4200, etc etc. Finally, my BIOS version is FA.

So, I just spent a good hour trying out different combinations of one adjustment at a time, here's what's happening (starting with optimized defaults and turning TURBO to NORMAL)

XMP Disabled, System Memory Multiplier (SMM hereafter) 4.00(800mhz) (lowest setting) - boots once and fails after restart (very weird)
SMM 5.33 - no fail
SMM 6.66 (default setting, 1333mhz) - no fail
SMM 8(1600mhz) and 9.33(1866mhz) - fail and fail

XMP Profile 1, SMM 5.33 - no fail
XMP profile 1, SMM 6.66, 8 and 9.33 - fail, fail, fail

With Memory Frequency options all at optimized defaults I'm able to bump the CPU Clock Ratio to 20.5 and 21 with no fails. After a successful reboot with the bumped CPU freq I tried a couple of different RAM adjustments and had the same results as above in each case.

As per OZ's suggestion of setting the SMM to the lowest multiplier to the lowest setting (4) and the CAS latency to 10, I got a fail with those settings both with XMP disabled and on Profile 1.

I didn't try reseating the RAM, as all four sticks are showing up and as there are only four slots on the board they can't be in the wrong order, right? Should I try reseating anyway?

Don't know if it's relevant or not, but here's the timing numbers for the RAM on the default settings (XMP Disabled, TURBO on, SMM 6.66 at 1332mhz)
tCL-9 tRCD-9 tRP-9 tRAS-24 tRIP-5 tRRD-4 tWTR-5 tRFC-44
The timings on the RAM package are 9-10-9-28 1.5v


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Wow, ok that changes the game a bit. That much RAM is definitely putting some stress on the memory controller, and you could possibly have a bad stick. I would start by testing one stick of RAM at a time and see if you are able to overclock at all then. Its bound to be time consuming, but overclocking properly usually is. You might also want to look into Memtest86 at http://www.memtest86.com/ With all 4 sticks in run that and see if you get any errors.


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Wow, ok that changes the game a bit. That much RAM is definitely putting some stress on the memory controller, and you could possibly have a bad stick. I would start by testing one stick of RAM at a time and see if you are able to overclock at all then. Its bound to be time consuming, but overclocking properly usually is. You might also want to look into Memtest86 at http://www.memtest86.com/ With all 4 sticks in run that and see if you get any errors.


Thanks OZ, I'll give that a try. Just to be clear, I should use just one stick at a time and have it positioned in the slot that's on the farthest right had side, away from the processor?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yes, That is slot 1.


----------



## thirsty4more

Hey guys, thanks ozzy for posting your findings. I took a stock amd cpu fan and placed it to push air over the vrms ( can't mount it directly on top because I don't have space due to h80i and small case ) and I was able to push my 8120 a bit farther without throttling like i used to. Currently at 4.3ghz tested for 20mins so far. It used to throttle after 30 seconds before placing the fan there. Only problem atm is the mini fan is ridiculously loud. Hope gigabyte does something about this for all us ud3 buyers. Cheers .


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thirsty4more*
> 
> Hey guys, thanks ozzy for posting your findings. I took a stock amd cpu fan and placed it to push air over the vrms ( can't mount it directly on top because I don't have space due to h80i and small case ) and I was able to push my 8120 a bit farther without throttling like i used to. Currently at 4.3ghz tested for 20mins so far. It used to throttle after 30 seconds before placing the fan there. Only problem atm is the mini fan is ridiculously loud. Hope gigabyte does something about this for all us ud3 buyers. Cheers .


I'm glad I was able to help. I had the same issue with space from my 620's radiator. I pulled it out so I could mount the fan then had just enough room to mount the radiator back. That's with the copper heatsink though. The stock one is taller.

My fan gets loud too. Lucky mine increases rpm as load increases so it only sounds like a fog horn when seriously stressing the system. During gaming it's not too bad but u can hear it.


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Wow, ok that changes the game a bit. That much RAM is definitely putting some stress on the memory controller, and you could possibly have a bad stick. I would start by testing one stick of RAM at a time and see if you are able to overclock at all then. Its bound to be time consuming, but overclocking properly usually is. You might also want to look into Memtest86 at http://www.memtest86.com/ With all 4 sticks in run that and see if you get any errors.


Ok, did a little testing and the results are interesting,

Firstly, according to BIOS anyway, slot 1 is the slot on the furthest left hand side and it considers slot 4 to be the one on the furthest right side. Booted up either way, but I did all the single stick testing in the slot BIOS considered to be slot 1.

Each of the four sticks of RAM in slot 1 I was able to change to XMP Profile 1 and boot with no fails. Checking the BIOS under Advanced Memory after the reboot it listed the RAM as being at 1866 with all the proper latency settings (as appears on the RAM packaging)... great! *BUT*, for some reason under M.I.T. it still listed the RAM as being at 1333 with completely different latency settings. Very weird. So I bumped up the CPU Clock Ratio to 21 (4.2ghz), rebooted, still no fail. In BIOS this time, in MIT, it still lists the RAM as being at 1333 but it does say that the CPU is at 4.2ghz.

So, next I tried it with two sticks, slots 1 and 2 according to BIOS, same results as one stick. No fails, under Advanced Memory it says it's at 1866 but under MIT it says 1333 with different latency settings.

Same settings with 3 and 4 sticks in resulted in boot fail

Didn't do the memtest yet

*EDIT* Just in case you missed it in one of my earlier posts, Gigabyte lists this mobo as supporting 1866 speed RAM, but the GSKILL website (I come to find after everything is bought) does not list this mobo as being compatible with this RAM package.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Hmmm sounds like the memory controller didn't like having all 4 sticks

Or am I misreading that? It won't work with sticks 3 and 4 alone or with all 4?


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Hmmm sounds like the memory controller didn't like having all 4 sticks
> 
> Or am I misreading that? It won't work with sticks 3 and 4 alone or with all 4?


I never tried it with sticks just in slots 3 and 4, I think I will just to be sure, it would fail when it had more than two sticks in. It looks to me like it just doesn't like having over 16gigs in.

What do you make of the discrepancy between what MIT is saying for the RAM speed/latency settings versus what it's saying under the Advanced Memory section (with only 2 sticks in, that is)?

I'm thinking I might have to get a different board


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> Totally agree with that, but be prepared to spend extra 30-50 USD/EUR on either of them.
> 
> Also, please give me that Gigabyte email address to do what I consider right now my duty and tell them what we've found, after a few weeks of testing, tweaking and improvising, basically the same thing you said to them. And of course pointing them to this angry yet enthusiast community that loses faith in their products.


Personally I have no plans near-term plans to change either my FX-6100 or my UD3, but just for the sake of discussion, might he be safe with the UD3 IF he had no plans to OC, anything, memory or cpu, even with his 8-core?


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'm not sure if updating the BIOS would help. It definitely won't hurt, there are various fixes and such in them.
> 
> start with putting the RAM on the lowest possible multiplier and up the CAS latency to 10 or so. Then you can bump up the CPU multi and see if you boot. Basically when overclocking you want to do one thing at a time. The less changes you make the easier it is to pin point the issue.
> Its hard to say man. Honestly though it looks to be that only the 8 core CPU's are pulling enough power to cause the problem. I think I would add a fan to the VRM area just to be safe in your case. If you have the 15 dollars to spend the copper heatsink is very nice and wouldn't hurt to have.


hey Oz, Thanks man, that's pretty much what I was thinking but it's nice to be in the company of someone with a little more experience. As for that copper heatsink if you previously posted a link to the one you bought I missed it, (I'll dig back) but if you haven't yet, could you? All I could find so far that looks a little like yours is this:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708016, ((or in case I'm not allowed to do that, ("Enzotech MST-88 C1100"))

I'm also gathering from your response that the added "fan to the VRM area" is more important than changing the OEM CPU cooler since the bigger heat-issues are the NB/VRM.
I have a crossbar mounted case fan that should be good for that.

Lastly in terms of STRESS TESTING to see where I stand and what might be needed to be added, my concern is finding testing SW that beats only on the RAM, Buses and/or CPU.
I have Win7 installed to an SSD that I will never benchmark for obvious I assume reasons and I want to be sure any CPU stress testing doesn't involve writing to the SSD.
easy answer there?

Thanks in advance


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Hey OZ, never mind on the heatsink, I got it that MST-88 is it. I found your pic. Now all I have to do is figure out where to get one besides newegg! (presumably amazon)









quick edit: .....or not... Amazon doesn't have it. Nor Tiger. Mifffff!









EVEN Google Shopping choked!
Exactly one hit.
NewEgg. over FOUR THOUSAND reviews, (and since on average at best half bother to post a review), that means at least 10,000 sold, _*and NO ONE else has this thing?*_ SOUNDS LIKE Enzotech (like Gskill) is a NE house-brand and no one else has it that isn't getting it first from NE. wadda load. (I can say "load" right? I'm a little gun-shy now on the whole "profanity abbreviation" issue)









If NE's the only place I can get one I may default to a wait-and-see mode....

OK with a little digging, I found it at frozencpu dot com total cost incl shipping, a buck more than NE. Small price to pay....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> First off, thanks NoNewEgg4Me and OzzyRuleZ for taking the time to help out, much appreciated!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To backtrack slightly for clarity's sake, I'm running 4x8gb sticks of GSKILL Ripjaw RAM and all the sticks are showing up as being there giving me the proper total of 32gb in BIOS and in system information. Also I am able to adjust the CPU Clock ratio by 0.5 increments, 20 = 4000, 20.5 = 4100, 21 = 4200, etc etc. Finally, my BIOS version is FA.
> 
> So, I just spent a good hour trying out different combinations of one adjustment at a time, here's what's happening (starting with optimized defaults and turning TURBO to NORMAL)
> 
> XMP Disabled, System Memory Multiplier (SMM hereafter) 4.00(800mhz) (lowest setting) - boots once and fails after restart (very weird)
> SMM 5.33 - no fail
> SMM 6.66 (default setting, 1333mhz) - no fail
> SMM 8(1600mhz) and 9.33(1866mhz) - fail and fail
> 
> XMP Profile 1, SMM 5.33 - no fail
> XMP profile 1, SMM 6.66, 8 and 9.33 - fail, fail, fail
> 
> With Memory Frequency options all at optimized defaults I'm able to bump the CPU Clock Ratio to 20.5 and 21 with no fails. After a successful reboot with the bumped CPU freq I tried a couple of different RAM adjustments and had the same results as above in each case.
> 
> As per OZ's suggestion of setting the SMM to the lowest multiplier to the lowest setting (4) and the CAS latency to 10, I got a fail with those settings both with XMP disabled and on Profile 1.
> 
> I didn't try reseating the RAM, as all four sticks are showing up and as there are only four slots on the board they can't be in the wrong order, right? Should I try reseating anyway?
> 
> Don't know if it's relevant or not, but here's the timing numbers for the RAM on the default settings (XMP Disabled, TURBO on, SMM 6.66 at 1332mhz)
> tCL-9 tRCD-9 tRP-9 tRAS-24 tRIP-5 tRRD-4 tWTR-5 tRFC-44
> The timings on the RAM package are 9-10-9-28 1.5v


ok, first with all 4 slots filled with matched-set ram, you're correct, obviously NO chance they're not in the right slots. HOWEVER 4 sticks does greatly increase the odds of 1 bad or "iffy" stick.
Which it's sounding more and more to ME like a possibility. The GOOD NEWS is with 4 sticks you have enough spares to trouble shoot with. You can pull the the sticks from slots 3 and 4 and try that, if that fails to boot at 1600 pull those and replace them with what you had in 3 & 4. If you STILL can't get 1600 then you've most likely eliminated faulty ram as the culprit. The odds more than 1 out of 4 being bad is really low. Obviously you could try all possible combinations to eliminate individual sticks.
If none of that bears joy then my next thought would be to second Oz and say go ahead with the FC BOIS flash.

One last question, Why so much ram? Are you looking to extreme-gaming? If not that's a lot more ram than you'll ever notice the difference of vs just 16 or even 8.

Come to think of it since they're 8G sticks I'd test pushing them one at a time in slot one.

THEN there's always the remote possibility of a problematic SLOT. Which (if the case) might be clearable by re-seating. Worst case, it's a slot and the problem can't be cleared by re-seating,
and it's slot one. I'm not sure if you can test individual slots 2-4 with nothing in slot one.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Hmmm sounds like the memory controller didn't like having all 4 sticks
> 
> Or am I misreading that? It won't work with sticks 3 and 4 alone or with all 4?


Yep I think you nailed it Oz. Mem controler NOT loving 4X8G

And my apologies for my last post. I posted without reading ahead to see what-who may have already said. Resulting UN-necessary repetition of what you'd already said.
my bad. lesson learned.

OldStumo: I'd be surprised if 16g wasn't more than enough for ya. I'm only running 2X4G.

NOW you said something else that really turned my head around, you said when you had sicks in the "inner 1 and 3rd" slots the BIOS 'saw' slots 1 and 3 as being occupied, and when you had the "outer-most" slot and skipping one in, (outer-most of the center two) the BIOS "saw" 2 and 4 as being occupied. Did I misconstrue that?
BECAUSE If that's the case the diagram in the manual and what's printed ON the MB are both backwards.
The good news is if that's true you established you can run slots 2 and 4 with 1 empty. Heck if that's the case I'M RUNNING with slot ONE empty now!


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> I never tried it with sticks just in slots 3 and 4, I think I will just to be sure, it would fail when it had more than two sticks in. It looks to me like it just doesn't like having over 16gigs in.
> 
> What do you make of the discrepancy between what MIT is saying for the RAM speed/latency settings versus what it's saying under the Advanced Memory section (with only 2 sticks in, that is)?
> 
> I'm thinking I might have to get a different board


Well I'll be dipped and rolled ! I just checked mine. and INDEED... the MIT is showing slots 2 and 4 occupied. (contradicting the manual and what's printed on the MB!!).








NOW I'm wondering if I might get any different results going for 1833 moving the sticks to the "other" slots 1 and 3.
Really Begs the question tho' ... which is wrong? the manual, and what's printed on the MB, OR the BIOS?
OR does it really not make any difference so long as you alternate slots if using 2 sticks.
OR DOES EVEN THAT not matter? My goodness n golly I'm so bemused!

AND just for your information, My memory speed as reported there under MIT IS consistent with what it shows under the Advanced Memory section, both places say 1600
(to be precise MIT says 1608 with miniscule fluctuation)


----------



## sabinus

Can't find that Enzotech MST-88 nowhere in Europe either


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

OldStumo:
OK STATUS report: (FYI)

I had my mem voltage ticked up to 1.54 (stock being 1.5v) and it occurred to me I didn't know for sure if that was making a difference.
SO I dragged it aaaaaalllll the way back down to "AUTO" (net 1.5v) and rebooted. No Change, posted fine, still 1600 no sweat.
SO I'll be leaving that 1.5, it's not benefiting from the extra .04v better not to give it.

Also I thought I had manually "nudged" the mem multiplier up one to "force" 1600. I had not.
XMP profile1 only, MEM-Multiplier on AUTO. Memory is rated at 1600 and that's what I'm getting.
I do know the turbo was a deal breaker however.

AND Of course without the Profile1 it WAS defaulting to 1333.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> Can't find that Enzotech MST-88 nowhere in Europe either


I searched Google (NOT "shopping") and a hit from Kaboodle.com (http://www.kaboodle.com/reviews/enzotech-mst-88-forged-copper-mosfet-heatsink--asus-p6t-rampage-ii-extreme)
pulled up where I'll get it from if I decide to go for it.
Also there was Hong Kong site that had it and seemed equipped to mail to the U.S. If they'll ship to the U.S. I'd imagine they'd ship to Europe.
Just search "Enzotech MST-88"
it was pretty hard to find outside of newegg tho'


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> OldStumo:
> OK STATUS report: (FYI)
> 
> I had my mem voltage ticked up to 1.54 (stock being 1.5v) and it occurred to me I didn't know for sure if that was making a difference.
> SO I dragged it aaaaaalllll the way back down to "AUTO" (net 1.5v) and rebooted. No Change, posted fine, still 1600 no sweat.
> SO I'll be leaving that 1.5, it's not benefiting from the extra .04v better not to give it.
> 
> Also I thought I had manually "nudged" the mem multiplier up one to "force" 1600. I had not.
> XMP profile1 only, MEM-Multiplier on AUTO. Memory is rated at 1600 and that's what I'm getting.
> I do know the turbo was a deal breaker however.
> 
> AND Of course without the Profile1 it WAS defaulting to 1333.


To answer one of your previous questions, I'm putting this build together for video editing, Adobe After Effects primarily. Most of the Adobe forums are suggesting 16gig minimum, with more being better to utilize the 3d functionality and reduce render times. I was running it on my last rig, 2.4ghz Quad core AMD with 8gigs of RAM and it was sluggish to say the least when working with the more intense aspects of the program.

Thanks for the legwork, confirming that your MIT reading and the reading under Advanced Memory being the same for you is exactly what I needed to know. Pretty much tells me that I'll either have to use this board at 1333 or get another board that supports this RAM kit. The problems OZ has been having with the heat sink makes me lean towards getting a better board. I don't know if it falls outside of the board/thread etiquette, but if it doesn't what board would you guys suggest? Here's the rest of my setup:

AMD FX8350 AMD 8 Core CPU 4.0ghz
EVGA 3gig 660ti GPU
32Gig (4x8) GSKILL Ripjaws 1866 RAM
Corsair 850w PSU


----------



## spypet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I would do it off of the SB controller. I'm running RAID0 on two WD Black 640's using the AMD RAID Option ROM. I've been doing it for years and have never had a failure.


Thanks for chiming in about RAID use. I can appreciate the "portability" of a Software RAID, and as you kindly testified the AMD Bridge chip based RAID may also be "portable". but that does not help explain why Gigibyte added that Marvell controller and channel. was it for more backward/sideways compatibility from other formally Marvell host raided drive pairs, simply to get more than 6 SATA ports on the board (six can be all AHCI while the other two can be all IDE), or does the Marvell controller offer some other distinct RAID advantage compared to the two remaining methods.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> hey Oz, Thanks man, that's pretty much what I was thinking but it's nice to be in the company of someone with a little more experience. As for that copper heatsink if you previously posted a link to the one you bought I missed it, (I'll dig back) but if you haven't yet, could you? All I could find so far that looks a little like yours is this:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708016, ((or in case I'm not allowed to do that, ("Enzotech MST-88 C1100"))
> 
> I'm also gathering from your response that the added "fan to the VRM area" is more important than changing the OEM CPU cooler since the bigger heat-issues are the NB/VRM.
> I have a crossbar mounted case fan that should be good for that.
> 
> Lastly in terms of STRESS TESTING to see where I stand and what might be needed to be added, my concern is finding testing SW that beats only on the RAM, Buses and/or CPU.
> I have Win7 installed to an SSD that I will never benchmark for obvious I assume reasons and I want to be sure any CPU stress testing doesn't involve writing to the SSD.
> easy answer there?
> 
> Thanks in advance


I use Memtest86 to test RAM. For CPU you can Linpack and Prime95 small FFT. Prime In place I like to use for overall stability. Prime blend will test lots of RAM. Honestly if I can run Prime In Place for 10+ hours and pass 20 passes of Linpack with max memory I call it stable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Hey OZ, never mind on the heatsink, I got it that MST-88 is it. I found your pic. Now all I have to do is figure out where to get one besides newegg! (presumably amazon)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quick edit: .....or not... Amazon doesn't have it. Nor Tiger. Mifffff!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EVEN Google Shopping choked!
> Exactly one hit.
> NewEgg. over FOUR THOUSAND reviews, (and since on average at best half bother to post a review), that means at least 10,000 sold, _*and NO ONE else has this thing?*_ SOUNDS LIKE Enzotech (like Gskill) is a NE house-brand and no one else has it that isn't getting it first from NE. wadda load. (I can say "load" right? I'm a little gun-shy now on the whole "profanity abbreviation" issue)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If NE's the only place I can get one I may default to a wait-and-see mode....
> 
> OK with a little digging, I found it at frozencpu dot com total cost incl shipping, a buck more than NE. Small price to pay....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> Can't find that Enzotech MST-88 nowhere in Europe either


I did a little digging for you guys and found 3 places in Europe. Not sure if that does you any good though.

http://www.aquapc.com/loja/produto.php?p=4952
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p7743_Enzotech-MST-88-VRM-heatsink.html/XTCsid/k040rgehuc8ckg0k8aemr4pbu7
http://www.aquatuning.de/product_info.php/info/p7743_Enzotech-MST-88-VRM-heatsink.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> Thanks for chiming in about RAID use. I can appreciate the "portability" of a Software RAID, and as you kindly testified the AMD Bridge chip based RAID may also be "portable". but that does not help explain why Gigibyte added that Marvell controller and channel. was it for more backward/sideways compatibility from other formally Marvell host raided drive pairs, simply to get more than 6 SATA ports on the board (six can be all AHCI while the other two can be all IDE), or does the Marvell controller offer some other distinct RAID advantage compared to the two remaining methods.


I believe the main reason is just to add more ports. The Marvell controller on the UD3 is only for the Esata ports. Looks like on yours it has 2 extra onboard and 2 Esata. I've always read that the NB controlled ones are faster so I would stick with them.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> To answer one of your previous questions, I'm putting this build together for video editing, Adobe After Effects primarily. Most of the Adobe forums are suggesting 16gig minimum, with more being better to utilize the 3d functionality and reduce render times. I was running it on my last rig, 2.4ghz Quad core AMD with 8gigs of RAM and it was sluggish to say the least when working with the more intense aspects of the program.
> 
> Thanks for the legwork, confirming that your MIT reading and the reading under Advanced Memory being the same for you is exactly what I needed to know. Pretty much tells me that I'll either have to use this board at 1333 or get another board that supports this RAM kit. The problems OZ has been having with the heat sink makes me lean towards getting a better board. I don't know if it falls outside of the board/thread etiquette, but if it doesn't what board would you guys suggest? Here's the rest of my setup:
> 
> AMD FX8350 AMD 8 Core CPU 4.0ghz
> EVGA 3gig 660ti GPU
> 32Gig (4x8) GSKILL Ripjaws 1866 RAM
> Corsair 850w PSU


I looked in the BIOS on mine. MIT shows banks 3/4 with physical slots 1/2 populated. However if I use CPUZ it shows banks 1/2 populated. AMD Overdrive says they are in banks 2/3 (0-3 in here) I have zero stability issues at 2100mhz in the banks physically labeled 1/2.

As for board recommendation. I personally plan on going with the Asus Sabertooth or Crosshair V if I have the money. I would check to see if either of them can support that much RAM or that specific kit first.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> .... The problems OZ has been having with the heat sink makes me lean towards getting a better board. I don't know if it falls outside of the board/thread etiquette, but if it doesn't what board would you guys suggest? ...


Not at all. Not in my opinion anyway.

Pushing that much RAM you might want to look into server Mobos but that would mean most likely moving on from your very nice AMD 8-core Desktop-CPU.
Staying within the A3+ socket 'zone', the 990FXA chipset is still the current best-you can get. and If I recall correctly it'll be the end-of-the-line for the A3/A3+ socket series.
WITHIN THAT chipset framework, you could look at: (roughly in order)
1. GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD5 (or UD7)
2. ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0
3. MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2
4. ASRock 990FX Extreme9
you'd have to do your own memory support legwork These are just the best 4, (IMO)
all of which qualify as a step up from the board you have now.

IN any case it's going to cost you a lot of $$ in terms of replacement + abandoned new hardware to move on.
IMHO a better option might be to just stay with what you have, Run the CPU at stock or not more than 4.2. Watch your temps and drop it back to stock if you see it creeping up. Even with the ram at 1333 you should still see a huge improvement in your rendering times.
The other not really cheap option might be to research some different ram UD3 might be happier with.
this: F3-1600C9Q-32GXM GSkill ram runs about $245 which is a bit more than the most expensive of the the 4 mother boards above. So if you can be assured one of those boards is going to support the ram you already have and do it at 1866 that's probably the way to go. That's if.

and if you're going to OC even to just 4.2 you probably want to look at some, one or more, of the cooling enhancements, discussed on this thread.


----------



## hurricane28

Hey Gigabyte fellas









i was wondering what would be the highest CPUNB volts and temps are of the UD5 rev 1.1

i wanted to set the NB to 2750 but it is not stable i have it running at 2510 now and it is perfectly well i guess but what is a save voltage of that and temps, i heard something about 80c is that correct?

and how do i monitor those temps?

is there any one who has the same board and wants to share some information about overclocking with this board?


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> I searched Google (NOT "shopping") and a hit from Kaboodle.com (http://www.kaboodle.com/reviews/enzotech-mst-88-forged-copper-mosfet-heatsink--asus-p6t-rampage-ii-extreme)
> pulled up where I'll get it from if I decide to go for it.
> Also there was Hong Kong site that had it and seemed equipped to mail to the U.S. If they'll ship to the U.S. I'd imagine they'd ship to Europe.
> Just search "Enzotech MST-88"
> it was pretty hard to find outside of newegg tho'


Yes, thank you sir. They have it in stock and they ship in Europe also, for only 7.99 USD. That's cheaper delivery then most European suppliers!

@*Ozzy*, thank you also. I checked that Aquapc & Aquatuning sites but they don't have it in stock.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Not at all. Not in my opinion anyway.
> 
> Pushing that much RAM you might want to look into server Mobos but that would mean most likely moving on from your very nice AMD 8-core Desktop-CPU.
> Staying within the A3+ socket 'zone', the 990FXA chipset is still the current best-you can get. and If I recall correctly it'll be the end-of-the-line for the A3/A3+ socket series.
> WITHIN THAT chipset framework, you could look at: (roughly in order)
> 1. GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD5 (or UD7)
> 2. ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0
> 3. MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2
> 4. ASRock 990FX Extreme9
> you'd have to do your own memory support legwork These are just the best 4, (IMO)
> all of which qualify as a step up from the board you have now.


Stumo and I have the same RAM kit, although since I haven't been doing as much I pulled two of the sticks and have only been running 16GBs. The UD5s are a good board, but for high stress graphics work I would suggest an ASUS Crosshair over the Sabertooth. They have better flexibility in tuning the memory (and support for mem overclocks to 2400) and also seem to have fewer throttling issues for intensive use of the GPU. While the UD5 (I have a rev 1.1) can be easily tuned to handle the 32gigs at 1866, I've noticed that it seems to start throttling the CPU and GPU under heavy thread use unless you start bumping up other voltages(CPU/NB/VID, PLL, etc). The UD7 would be an excellent board and has the least throttling and heat issues that I've heard about, and you can find full-cover water blocks for the UD7s to combat higher temps for the voltage jumps, but unfortunately Gigabyte has discontinued them and they're getting pretty darned hard to find new, and not without paying a handsome markup either. I'm not sure how much you're looking to spend, but considering you use your build for, a new motherboard would probably be an easier fix, and if you're willing to spend even a little extra (not sure if you have a cooling loop or not) the ASUS boards (both the Sabertooth and Crosshair series) do have several fullcover blocks for water cooling the NB, SB, and VRMs. Even if you don't do the cooling, I think those will give you the best flexibility with what you do.

As far as the RAM support I can try to help you fine tune yours as I've gone through it with the 4x 8GB set from GSkill, and if I can't help you figure it out, go to GSkill's forums. ( http://www.gskill.us/forum/index.php Look for Tradesman or GSkill Tech, those two were great and always quick to respond and help when I was trying to get my RAM kit tuned in)


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hey Gigabyte fellas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i was wondering what would be the highest CPUNB volts and temps are of the UD5 rev 1.1
> 
> i wanted to set the NB to 2750 but it is not stable i have it running at 2510 now and it is perfectly well i guess but what is a save voltage of that and temps, i heard something about 80c is that correct?
> 
> and how do i monitor those temps?
> 
> is there any one who has the same board and wants to share some information about overclocking with this board?


I've not really tried tweaking the NB frequencies much as of yet, and unfortunately it will be another day or two before I back on regularly... having a prolonged fight at repairing some file corruption on my HDD thanks to my roommate "borrowing" my tower to "get some movies"







My brand new clean drive should be in from newegg tomorrow so I can swap it out and get the tower offline long enough to do a complete wipe of the old drive...

Anyways, as far as a utility for temp monitoring I generally use HWinfo64, but I'm pretty certain it doesn't specifically identify the mosfet, NB, SB, and VRM temps... just an overall mobo temp. If anyone else here knows how true or not that is or if there's a better utility for monitoring that I'd love to know as well.

As far as other overclocking with a UD5 Rev 1.1, it's been fairly easy for getting to some very nice CPU overclocks...


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Stumo and I have the same RAM kit, although since I haven't been doing as much I pulled two of the sticks and have only been running 16GBs. The UD5s are a good board, but for high stress graphics work I would suggest an ASUS Crosshair over the Sabertooth. They have better flexibility in tuning the memory (and support for mem overclocks to 2400) and also seem to have fewer throttling issues for intensive use of the GPU. While the UD5 (I have a rev 1.1) can be easily tuned to handle the 32gigs at 1866, I've noticed that it seems to start throttling the CPU and GPU under heavy thread use unless you start bumping up other voltages(CPU/NB/VID, PLL, etc). The UD7 would be an excellent board and has the least throttling and heat issues that I've heard about, and you can find full-cover water blocks for the UD7s to combat higher temps for the voltage jumps, but unfortunately Gigabyte has discontinued them and they're getting pretty darned hard to find new, and not without paying a handsome markup either. I'm not sure how much you're looking to spend, but considering you use your build for, a new motherboard would probably be an easier fix, and if you're willing to spend even a little extra (not sure if you have a cooling loop or not) the ASUS boards (both the Sabertooth and Crosshair series) do have several fullcover blocks for water cooling the NB, SB, and VRMs. Even if you don't do the cooling, I think those will give you the best flexibility with what you do.
> 
> As far as the RAM support I can try to help you fine tune yours as I've gone through it with the 4x 8GB set from GSkill, and if I can't help you figure it out, go to GSkill's forums. ( http://www.gskill.us/forum/index.php Look for Tradesman or GSkill Tech, those two were great and always quick to respond and help when I was trying to get my RAM kit tuned in)


From what I've heard here and a few other places, OC'ing either the ud3 or ud5 much beyond 1 tick requires a "proportional" bumping of most all the major player's voltages and/or multipliers. At least that's what I found relative to my 6100, but other than that, I gotta say.... yeah... "what he said".... really good response.


----------



## itomic

Did anyone find out when will Gigabyte roll out new BIOS for UD-5 REV 3.0 ??


----------



## baconybacon

I have a UD3 v3 and FX8350, right how I have the multiplier to 21x giving me 4.2G. I have the vcore @ -0.075 and it's rock solid, from prime95 to bf3. Trying to set it to 21.5+ will not even post, playing with the voltages, ram speeds, anything else has zero effect. I have read everywhere that setting this to 22x should be the easiest overclock to achieve with this cpu/mb combo. I have a Corsair H60 setup with push/pull and it works very well so heat should not be an issue. Using the windows amd tool to overclock on the fly also freezes it immediately.

So... Do I have "one of those" cpus and is there any way to know for sure?


----------



## miklkit

I have the same mobo and cpu, but am on air and I set the multiplier to 22.5 and it runs fine. Or at least all my games work ok. It errors out on OCCT in 1-2 minutes though.
It seems that the cpu multiplier is about all that I can change for some reason.







That and I could turn off all of the power saving thingies.
I tried Easy Tune with Easy Boost and it likes 4.6ghz but for some reason certain games don't like it. I would avoid that AMD ECC. It is really buggy and all I use it for is presets.
Anyway, one would think that you could go higher than 4.2ghz.


----------



## Cores

Would anyone consider the MSI 990FXA-GD80 a good alternative to the UD3?


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> Would anyone consider the MSI 990FXA-GD80 a good alternative to the UD3?


Never mind, I'll jump for the Sabertooth 2.0. Unless someone can suggest better.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I have the same mobo and cpu, but am on air and I set the multiplier to 22.5 and it runs fine. Or at least all my games work ok. It errors out on OCCT in 1-2 minutes though.
> It seems that the cpu multiplier is about all that I can change for some reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That and I could turn off all of the power saving thingies.
> I tried Easy Tune with Easy Boost and it likes 4.6ghz but for some reason certain games don't like it. I would avoid that AMD ECC. It is really buggy and all I use it for is presets.
> Anyway, one would think that you could go higher than 4.2ghz.


I'm running 4.6 but on water, completely unstable that is, I mean it works fine for everything I do but I have no clue how it would handle full load as the moment it gets near full load my voltage drops. Thankfully nothing I've thrown at it this far has come close to 100% on all cores minus stress test of course.

This BIOS is really starting to suck, whoever thought offsets where a good idea for anything is a freaking moron.


----------



## miklkit

Have you seen what Oz did with his rig with that little fan? I have 3 -120mm fans in that corner of the case and the motherboard is not my problem. Temperatures are the problem.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Have you seen what Oz did with his rig with that little fan? I have 3 -120mm fans in that corner of the case and the motherboard is not my problem. Temperatures are the problem.


Indeed I have but I don't have a aftermarket heat sink to throw on my board. Your motherboard is the problem I can tell you that right now it's a problem everyone who owns a UD3 Rev 3 has, even Ozzy he just found a work around. Gigabyte made a mistake in their design and for now and possibly forever we have to deal with it.

Oh and I also have 3 120mm fans in the left corner of my case however in my case they are all set to exhaust air out of my case.


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Not at all. Not in my opinion anyway.
> 
> Pushing that much RAM you might want to look into server Mobos but that would mean most likely moving on from your very nice AMD 8-core Desktop-CPU.
> Staying within the A3+ socket 'zone', the 990FXA chipset is still the current best-you can get. and If I recall correctly it'll be the end-of-the-line for the A3/A3+ socket series.
> WITHIN THAT chipset framework, you could look at: (roughly in order)
> 1. GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD5 (or UD7)
> 2. ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0
> 3. MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2
> 4. ASRock 990FX Extreme9
> you'd have to do your own memory support legwork These are just the best 4, (IMO)
> all of which qualify as a step up from the board you have now.
> 
> IN any case it's going to cost you a lot of $$ in terms of replacement + abandoned new hardware to move on.
> IMHO a better option might be to just stay with what you have, Run the CPU at stock or not more than 4.2. Watch your temps and drop it back to stock if you see it creeping up. Even with the ram at 1333 you should still see a huge improvement in your rendering times.
> The other not really cheap option might be to research some different ram UD3 might be happier with.
> this: F3-1600C9Q-32GXM GSkill ram runs about $245 which is a bit more than the most expensive of the the 4 mother boards above. So if you can be assured one of those boards is going to support the ram you already have and do it at 1866 that's probably the way to go. That's if.
> 
> and if you're going to OC even to just 4.2 you probably want to look at some, one or more, of the cooling enhancements, discussed on this thread.


I just looked at the "Qualified Motherboards List" for this RAM package I have on the GSKILL website, it's only listing Intel based boards, although it does state that the RAM is compatible with AM3. Makes me a little hesitant to run out and buy another mobo. Given that I can't send either this mobo or RAM set back now I imagine I'll just run it as is for a while at 1333. Discouraging though.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> I just looked at the "Qualified Motherboards List" for this RAM package I have on the GSKILL website, it's only listing Intel based boards, although it does state that the RAM is compatible with AM3. Makes me a little hesitant to run out and buy another mobo. Given that I can't send either this mobo or RAM set back now I imagine I'll just run it as is for a while at 1333. Discouraging though.


My RAM also wasn't listed on the list G.SKILL has I have 16GB 8GB x 2 @1600 and it works just fine. It's not the same model as yours but their list for it had nothing but Intel, it seems to be the only type of boards they test.

It could be incompatibility but I seriously doubt it.


----------



## miklkit

Let me rephrase that. The motherboard does not throttle as long as the temperatures stay down below 65C. So controlling the temps is my problem. I have that Enzotech cooler installed and the 120mm fan on the cpu heatsink is mounted on the back in pull mode. It is blowing across the top of the Enzotech directly at the 120mm case exhaust fan and there is another 120 above the cpu in exhaust mode. This makes a nice little wind tunnel and the only throttling I have seen has been cpu throttling when it hits 65C. More and more powerful fans are next.
I do agree that the UD3 was not designed with the 8350 in mind and is weak, and I can not work that bios.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Let me rephrase that. The motherboard does not throttle as long as the temperatures stay down below 65C. So controlling the temps is my problem. I have that Enzotech cooler installed and the 120mm fan on the cpu heatsink is mounted on the back in pull mode. It is blowing across the top of the Enzotech directly at the 120mm case exhaust fan and there is another 120 above the cpu in exhaust mode. This makes a nice little wind tunnel and the only throttling I have seen has been cpu throttling when it hits 65C. More and more powerful fans are next.
> I do agree that the UD3 was not designed with the 8350 in mind and is weak, and I can not work that bios.


Short of water cooling I don't know what to tell you, more fans like you said I guess. lol

I think the next step for me is a new board.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Let me rephrase that. The motherboard does not throttle as long as the temperatures stay down below 65C. So controlling the temps is my problem. I have that Enzotech cooler installed and the 120mm fan on the cpu heatsink is mounted on the back in pull mode. It is blowing across the top of the Enzotech directly at the 120mm case exhaust fan and there is another 120 above the cpu in exhaust mode. This makes a nice little wind tunnel and the only throttling I have seen has been cpu throttling when it hits 65C. More and more powerful fans are next.
> I do agree that the UD3 was not designed with the 8350 in mind and is weak, and I can not work that bios.


What are your ambients like?The A30 reviews say its a pretty potent cooler. I know the other day at 4.5ghz I was seeing 58C for CPU temps. Lower ambients can change CPU temp a lot. Tonight its really cool I bumped up the clocks to 4.6 and added a little voltage and it never went above 54C.

It failed prime after about 30 minutes though. I don't want to add another .25v I only want to add like .1, I miss having a motherboard where I can punch in 1.390v and it gives me 1.390v. These .25v increments sucks nuts.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I've not really tried tweaking the NB frequencies much as of yet, and unfortunately it will be another day or two before I back on regularly... having a prolonged fight at repairing some file corruption on my HDD thanks to my roommate "borrowing" my tower to "get some movies"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My brand new clean drive should be in from newegg tomorrow so I can swap it out and get the tower offline long enough to do a complete wipe of the old drive...
> 
> Anyways, as far as a utility for temp monitoring I generally use HWinfo64, but I'm pretty certain it doesn't specifically identify the mosfet, NB, SB, and VRM temps... just an overall mobo temp. If anyone else here knows how true or not that is or if there's a better utility for monitoring that I'd love to know as well.
> 
> As far as other overclocking with a UD5 Rev 1.1, it's been fairly easy for getting to some very nice CPU overclocks...


ah thnx dude









yes it is a great board for overclocking, but i do not want to fry my vrm LOL so thats why i ask what is the max voltage and temps of it.

i use HWINFO64 that is the best for me so far.

good luck with your HDD man!


----------



## FiatluX

Hi guys

New UD3 R.3.0 owner here, running a thuban 1090T and 2X4gb crucial ballistix sport 1600mhz on it









I have a question concerning the vcore, is it normal that it fluctuates between 1.200 and 1.440 continuously?



Once I get everything settled @ stock I´ll try OC´ing.


----------



## miklkit

Hi Oz! Ambients here are fairly nice. I just got up and the sun hasn't come up yet and it is around 67F/21C. Later it will get to 78F/26C. At those temps this cpu never gets over 52C in normal use and is usually in the mid 40cs. The tuffest stress test will put it over 65C in no time though. The fans for the case and cpu are very average and some more potent ones are in the mail.

Hi FiatluX! It does that for me too depending on the load. This FX8350 normally runs at 1.344v but when stress testing it has gone as high as 1.404v. In normal use it goes as high as 1.380v.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fegelein*
> 
> Would anyone consider the MSI 990FXA-GD80 a good alternative to the UD3?


It's pretty well reviewed/liked at newegg. I don't buy from them anymore but I still consider the review-community there among the best on the web.


----------



## Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> It's pretty well reviewed/liked at newegg. I don't buy from them anymore but I still consider the review-community there among the best on the web.


I'm pretty much set on getting the Sabertooth R2.0 now, it's on sale at Overclockers UK and cheaper than the UD5.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> It's pretty well reviewed/liked at newegg. I don't buy from them anymore but I still consider the review-community there among the best on the web.


I liked MSI until they refused to warranty a Radeon 6850 Cyclone that started artifacting really bad. Thing had a 3 year warranty, I only had it 8 months, bought brand new from Newegg... Card wasn't overclocked, I had 2 of them in Crossfire, they didn't give me a reason other than, "its no longer covered" They won't see anymore of my money that's for sure.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> It failed prime after about 30 minutes though. I don't want to add another .25v I only want to add like .1, I miss having a motherboard where I can punch in 1.390v and it gives me 1.390v. These .25v increments sucks nuts.


Yup, that is why I can't stand this BIOS I'm running with a +.50v just to stop getting BSOD at 4.6 but I know I don't need that much voltage.


----------



## Pudfark

@Ozz and All the folks chasing the VRM problems....

Take a look at this link below..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1367507/vrm-cooling-when-using-h80

I know some of it is applicable to me and maybe OZZinator. Since we both
use a liquid cooler. I never had a known issue with my VRM's until I went from
a Oclocked AMD 955 @3.6 and Coolmaster 520 to an AMD8350 @ 4.6 and a Corsair H110.

The link above may help some and it may provide more facts to backup the OZZinator's findings.

Here's another link suggesting that air cooling the back of the motherboard, underneath the VRM's can have
a benefit as well.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720295

I am going to do soon, all of what OZZ has suggested/determined and probably a fan on the back of the MB.
Hope this helps somebody.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> I just looked at the "Qualified Motherboards List" for this RAM package I have on the GSKILL website, it's only listing Intel based boards, although it does state that the RAM is compatible with AM3. Makes me a little hesitant to run out and buy another mobo. Given that I can't send either this mobo or RAM set back now I imagine I'll just run it as is for a while at 1333. Discouraging though.


MAJOR UPDATE: OLDSTUMO: I just updated my BIOS to FC and FOR SURE you want to DO THAT.
OF course it defaulted everything wiping out what little tweaking I'd done.
The first thing I hit was the CPU, I went straight to 3.5 and GOT IT. First time ever 3.5 didn't get the post-fail. I'm impressed already.

Next I put the XMP profile back on (multiplier on auto) which kicked it up to 1600, IT POSTED AGAIN. I'm more impressed almost psyched!

Next I tweaked the DRAM voltage up .045 to 1.545 and at the same stop manually kicked the multiplier up to 1833, It posted again! 5X5!!!

FIRST TIME EVER I could get the CPU beyond 3.4 and first time ever I got the memory over 1600. I am VERY impressed and for anyone having issues getting their memory over that 1333 rut, I can't recommend HIGHLY ENOUGH this BIOS update. MASSIVE improvement with CPU and memory OC. BTW my mem STOCK speed is 1600, so it's officially OverClocked.
Keep in mind you have a different CPU as well as different (and MUCH MORE) RAM, so it's not inconceivable your results to the FC BIOS won't mirror mine.
I'm done for tonight, after 9 here, but my next play will be to put the DRAM voltage back to stock to see if that +.045v is actually needed.

Rock On y'all...!


----------



## Hellsrage

Well I got a response from Gigabyte.


If I remember correctly they gave this same response to a member some time ago.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I liked MSI until they refused to warranty a Radeon 6850 Cyclone that started artifacting really bad. Thing had a 3 year warranty, I only had it 8 months, bought brand new from Newegg... Card wasn't overclocked, I had 2 of them in Crossfire, they didn't give me a reason other than, "its no longer covered" They won't see anymore of my money that's for sure.


It's really surprising sometimes how short-sighted these guys/companies can be. I was a 18 year-long-order-history loyal customer with newegg (90% of all my pc-parts buying) Probably about $4 or 5k all told, when, this past March, they shoved a MOBO RMA up my bung. There were extenuating circumstances, I offered them what I really felt was a very reasonable compromise, a deal, 6 - 8 years ago they'd have agreed to. (with consideration for my long order history) I got snot. Since then I've spent almost a grand at about 5 other places, at least 3 of which were new to me, and SAVED quite a bit of money in the process (vs having given that business to NEWEGG). THANKS NEWEGG







this copper heat-sink thing is the closest I've come to missing NE since leaving.


----------



## FiatluX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hi FiatluX! It does that for me too depending on the load. This FX8350 normally runs at 1.344v but when stress testing it has gone as high as 1.404v. In normal use it goes as high as 1.380v.


Thanks, odd thing (to me) is that mine fluctuates endlessly at idle too!


----------



## s15sLiDeR

They refuse to even acknowledge this issue that ozzy has brought up.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They refuse to even acknowledge this issue that ozzy has brought up.


Call them on it. Take my message I posted a few pages back and send to them and say "oh really?" They are going to try to avoid this like the plague I promise you that.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Call them on it. Take my message I posted a few pages back and send to them and say "oh really?" They are going to try to avoid this like the plague I promise you that.


This whole thing is just getting irritating, guess I'll go send another email but I'm about ready to start using caps.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Call them on it. Take my message I posted a few pages back and send to them and say "oh really?" They are going to try to avoid this like the plague I promise you that.


I totally just did.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> This whole thing is just getting irritating, guess I'll go send another email but I'm about ready to start using caps.


REAL MEN HOLD DOWN THE SHIFT KEY.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

They haven't responded to me. Honestly I don't expect them to. They are going to pretend I don't exist.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Double post.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> They haven't responded to me. Honestly I don't expect them to. They are going to pretend I don't exist.


When I thought I saw it all, look at the answer they gave me.. I bet you didn't see any dumber. Are they on strange pills or something? What in the house of lords has SATA to do with anything?:


----------



## sabinus

double post


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well now I know we are dealing with idiots. Guess we need to find a tech journalist to write a story about our findings and question gigabytes pr directly.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> When I thought I saw it all, look at the answer they gave me.. I bet you didn't see any dumber. Are they on strange pills or something? What in the house of lords has SATA to do with anything?:


"Have you restarted your printer cables?"
Would have been a more acceptable question then whatever giant pile of crap you just got asked to do.


----------



## Fordox

Why wont you post this all on their own forum? then they have to see it and it's public so they can't whipe it off as a user error.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> When I thought I saw it all, look at the answer they gave me.. I bet you didn't see any dumber. Are they on strange pills or something? What in the house of lords has SATA to do with anything?:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Say what? Okay, that's pretty sad right there, I've had some dumb tech support but wow that tops it. I actually had an AT&T support person ask me questions about phones since I was basically walking them through the steps of switching my data to a different phone.


----------



## sabinus

I've lost all hope. They already behave like headless monkeys.. all they want is your money because they fired the last "real" tech support person ages ago!

If I send them any more messages there will be lots of heavy words... which they won't understand/or bother to read and reply with:
"Thank you sir for your kind appreciations towards our product. We look forward to supply you with even worse crap.. so stay tuned!"

UPDATE:
I finally achieved NO throttling.. but with a different FX-8320 processor, apparently more capable.
80 mm slim fan on the VRM HS @ 2700 RPM (much quiter than stock AMD ear cracking "jet fan" @6250 RPM)
So far OCCT stable: 4.46 Ghz @ +0.025 vcore / +0.025 NB core.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Gigabytes response is like a bad joke.

Glad to see you got it to behave a bit but I'm sure it'll show its head again when you push the cpu harder.

That amd cooler is freaking loud lol


----------



## miklkit

FiatluX: Mine does NOT fluctuate at idle at all. I do not know what is going on with yours. Have you gone into the bios and disabled all of the power saving features?

sabinus: That looks great. I gotta try setting voltages again. But! You are using the large data set in OCCT and are seeing 65C! The last time I ran the large data set I got 45C. What cpu cooler are you using?


----------



## Cores

Looks like their terrible support has now made me lose respect for Gigabyte as a company


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> MAJOR UPDATE: OLDSTUMO: I just updated my BIOS to FC and FOR SURE you want to DO THAT.
> OF course it defaulted everything wiping out what little tweaking I'd done.
> The first thing I hit was the CPU, I went straight to 3.5 and GOT IT. First time ever 3.5 didn't get the post-fail. I'm impressed already.
> 
> Next I put the XMP profile back on (multiplier on auto) which kicked it up to 1600, IT POSTED AGAIN. I'm more impressed almost psyched!
> 
> Next I tweaked the DRAM voltage up .045 to 1.545 and at the same stop manually kicked the multiplier up to 1833, It posted again! 5X5!!!
> 
> FIRST TIME EVER I could get the CPU beyond 3.4 and first time ever I got the memory over 1600. I am VERY impressed and for anyone having issues getting their memory over that 1333 rut, I can't recommend HIGHLY ENOUGH this BIOS update. MASSIVE improvement with CPU and memory OC. BTW my mem STOCK speed is 1600, so it's officially OverClocked.
> Keep in mind you have a different CPU as well as different (and MUCH MORE) RAM, so it's not inconceivable your results to the FC BIOS won't mirror mine.
> I'm done for tonight, after 9 here, but my next play will be to put the DRAM voltage back to stock to see if that +.045v is actually needed.
> 
> Rock On y'all...!


Hey, right on NoNewEgg, thanks for letting me know! I'll for sure give that a try and let you guys know how it works out for me.









Ultra n00b question here, but I know pretty much zip about upgrading a BIOS version... anything I should be aware of that might not be mentioned in website instructions?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well they finally got back to me. Not a whole lot to say...


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well they finally got back to me. Not a whole lot to say...


Well one of two things is going to happen.

1. It gets deleted and they forget you said anything.

2. They send it to some who understands what you said and they do something. (Probably say nothing is wrong on their end)


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I think you are right about that.

I just submitted a follow up review of the UD3 on Newegg explaining my findings and what all I had to do to fix it. I also gave my recommendations to avoid this board if they are wanting a FX 8 core CPU since it seems only they are affected. I recommended the Asus Sabertooth and (shudder) the UD5. Hopefully I am able to save a lot of people a good chunk of time and money by getting this info out there.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> Hey, right on NoNewEgg, thanks for letting me know! I'll for sure give that a try and let you guys know how it works out for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ultra n00b question here, but I know pretty much zip about upgrading a BIOS version... anything I should be aware of that might not be mentioned in website instructions?


The instructions are actually in your Printed-MANUAL. I kind of looked and don't *recall* seeing any install-guidance on the BIOS download page.

Only tip I got from trying it, The preferred method is to have the expanded files on a flash/thumb drive and for whatever reason, "external-USB drive" does NOT = "flash/thumb" drive. I had the files on my 1TB external and the "quick-flash" utility could not see it.
I had to copy the files to a "normal"(?) 16GB "thumb drive" and then Q-Flash found the drive.

Here's the part that kinda peeved me off. Once (you manually select) the flash-drive location, and files there-in appear, the Q-flash utility does NOT recognize the update an latch on to it. It's waiting for you to manually select the actual update file. Which if there was only one wouldn't be a thing but the EXE file you download produces THREE files. You have to just know (or guess well) which one it is because the q-flash routine DOES NOT.
FOR THE RECORD that file name is: " 9FXAUD33.FC "
LASTLY, "quick-flash"? psyche. Like there's some OTHER "less quick" method? (there is not) the q-flash takes about two minutes.

AND be advised, (I wished I'd known this) when you reboot the first time it seems to be posting, you see the new splash-screen and then... it goes black, and appears to be RE-POSTING again! I about freaked! . . . But, not to worry, after the second post it proceeds normally, the double-post-first-time is apparently a normal part of the update process.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> FiatluX: Mine does NOT fluctuate at idle at all. I do not know what is going on with yours. Have you gone into the bios and disabled all of the power saving features?
> 
> sabinus: That looks great. I gotta try setting voltages again. But! You are using the large data set in OCCT and are seeing 65C! The last time I ran the large data set I got 45C. What cpu cooler are you using?


I use only air cooling Noctua NH-D14.
Anyway it's hard to believe you have only 45 deg with no throttling for 1 hour stress even with very good liquid cooling.. unless you have very capable CPU at low voltage (under 1.41 V full load), low ambient temperature ..something below 20 degrees Celsius. Please post pics. and ambient temperature are very important for comparison.


----------



## miklkit

Sorry but this will be a long post.

I last posted pics on post # 5195 on page # 520. That was on a warm day at approx. 26C. For some reason I am unable to change the cpu voltage so it is stock. This causes errors with the large and medium data set on OCCT. At that time the small data set would cause it to go straight to the 65C redline I have set.

Yesterday I tried to set voltage again, and it still is stuck on auto.

Also yesterday the first upgrade fan came in. It is a case fan that bumps the case exhaust from 56cfm to 110cfm. The old case exhaust fan was moved to the upper front so there are now 3 front intake fans @ 56cfm.

I read your post this morning sabinus and started OCCT to see what has changed. The large and medium data sets errored out as expected, but the small data set ran without overheating! It was at 58C when it started throttling and never went higher. It has never throttled before except when it overheated, so this is new to me. The ambient this morning is maybe 21- 22C.

Anyway, here is a pic of the current situation.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I think you are right about that.
> 
> I just submitted a follow up review of the UD3 on Newegg explaining my findings and what all I had to do to fix it. I also gave my recommendations to avoid this board if they are wanting a FX 8 core CPU since it seems only they are affected. I recommended the Asus Sabertooth and (shudder) the UD5. Hopefully I am able to save a lot of people a good chunk of time and money by getting this info out there.


I also posted your finding an another tech forum thinking about posting it in some others as well as the UD3 gets recommended a lot.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Sorry but this will be a long post.
> 
> I last posted pics on post # 5195 on page # 520. That was on a warm day at approx. 26C. For some reason I am unable to change the cpu voltage so it is stock. This causes errors with the large and medium data set on OCCT. At that time the small data set would cause it to go straight to the 65C redline I have set.
> 
> Yesterday I tried to set voltage again, and it still is stuck on auto.
> 
> Also yesterday the first upgrade fan came in. It is a case fan that bumps the case exhaust from 56cfm to 110cfm. The old case exhaust fan was moved to the upper front so there are now 3 front intake fans @ 56cfm.
> 
> I read your post this morning sabinus and started OCCT to see what has changed. The large and medium data sets errored out as expected, but the small data set ran without overheating! It was at 58C when it started throttling and never went higher. It has never throttled before except when it overheated, so this is new to me. The ambient this morning is maybe 21- 22C.
> 
> Anyway, here is a pic of the current situation.


1.404v is your stock voltage? You use +and - keys or page up and page down to change the voltage offset. Bumping it up isn't going to do you any favors since you are pretty much at the recommended thermal limit of the CPU. Really you should knock your CPU speed down to 4.4ghz and try it at 1.404. It will probably be stable and knock a couple degrees off the temp.

As for the throttling, go back and read the last 15 pages of this thread. The VRM's are overheating you need better cooling for them. I recommend the Enzotech MST-88 heatsink and a decent 80mm fan on top of it.

Also, Large and medium data sets test RAM the small only tests the CPU. Back off your memory timings a bit and it probably won't error out right away. That is something you don't want happening. Unstable memory can screw up your OS install pretty quickly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I also posted your finding an another tech forum thinking about posting it in some others as well as the UD3 gets recommended a lot.


Good deal. Thank you sir.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Sorry but this will be a long post.
> 
> I last posted pics on post # 5195 on page # 520. That was on a warm day at approx. 26C. For some reason I am unable to change the cpu voltage so it is stock. This causes errors with the large and medium data set on OCCT. At that time the small data set would cause it to go straight to the 65C redline I have set.
> 
> Yesterday I tried to set voltage again, and it still is stuck on auto.
> 
> Also yesterday the first upgrade fan came in. It is a case fan that bumps the case exhaust from 56cfm to 110cfm. The old case exhaust fan was moved to the upper front so there are now 3 front intake fans @ 56cfm.
> 
> I read your post this morning sabinus and started OCCT to see what has changed. The large and medium data sets errored out as expected, but the small data set ran without overheating! It was at 58C when it started throttling and never went higher. It has never throttled before except when it overheated, so this is new to me. The ambient this morning is maybe 21- 22C.
> 
> Anyway, here is a pic of the current situation.
> ...


Welcome to our *Throttling club*
Now do what Ozzy told you and improve VRM cooling. I currently have the original GB heatsink on top of which I put a 2700 rpm 80 mm slim fan. It barely fits under the Noctua NH-D14 but it gets the job done.


----------



## bond32

Sent my sabertooth back. Was a good board but I was trying to cut costs and got the msi 990fxa-gd65v2... Mistake. This board is a huge let down. Ordered the gigabyte ud5 now, I had the ud3 as my first board but was riddled with problems. Hopefully the ud5 will be better.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Sent my sabertooth back. Was a good board but I was trying to cut costs and got the msi 990fxa-gd65v2... Mistake. This board is a huge let down. Ordered the gigabyte ud5 now, I had the ud3 as my first board but was riddled with problems. Hopefully the ud5 will be better.


You made a wise choice. If I knew there will be so hard to manage throttle I would have spent the extra 30 dollars for UD5 too


----------



## miklkit

Well, I finally figured out which buttons to push. You are correct Ozzy. The cpu vcore is now one click higher and it survived the large data test.







Stock voltage is 1.344v and it would ramp up to 1.404 under load on its own. Now it is 1.368v and ramped up to 1.416v under load. The max temp is misleading in that it would spike to 58C and then drop back down. Usually it was at 48C. Ambient is 22C.

This mobo already has the Enzotech heat sink installed and it never throttled unless the cpu went over 65C. Yesterday the first big fan arrived and I suspect it messed up the air flow in the case so that the VRMs are throttling now. The next fan will go on the cooler itself and I hope it will balance the air flow better. I also have 80mm fans on hand just in case they are needed.

I have not touched the memory at all and the bios shows it at 1600mhz which is what it is supposed to be.


----------



## baconybacon

Well the MST-88 finally came in after being delayed in transit. Bolted it on tight with some MX-4 as my board is still flat (for now). The previous stock heatsink got hot to the touch when running prime95 but this thing gets crazy blistering hot so its obviously working. I haven't put a fan on it and I'm not overclocking so don't think I will, this is my work comp and it's running linux, I need to know when stuff goes borkbork its not the motherboard









On a side note I also put on a Logisys Computer CC8 on the NB and it is performing great. It gets warmish but no wheres near a hot as the horrible stock one did. The "legs" on this thing... whoever thought they were a good idea should be fired asap, such a pita to install. And for the Corsair H60 I bought two COUGAR CF-V12HP setup as push/pull blowing out, these are fantastic. They move a ton of air for how quiet they are, at 1000rpm (which is what fancontrol usually keeps them around at idle, 36deg right now) they are damn near inaudible.


----------



## daddyfatsax

I just purchased the UD3 and have an issue when I boot it with my 7970, which is also a Gigabyte. It will not go into the bios at all, it will skip right past it even while I am pushing delete, end, F12. The only way I could get into the bios was to put in my GTX 670 from another board. I could then get it to boot my thumb drive so I could install windows. Once windows was installed I can put the 7970 back in and it will boot, but it still will not allow me to get into the bios even after I updated to the latest version when I had my 670 installed. Besides this weird issue everything else is fine. Anyone had a similar experience?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daddyfatsax*
> 
> I just purchased the UD3 and have an issue when I boot it with my 7970, which is also a Gigabyte. It will not go into the bios at all, it will skip right past it even while I am pushing delete, end, F12. The only way I could get into the bios was to put in my GTX 670 from another board. I could then get it to boot my thumb drive so I could install windows. Once windows was installed I can put the 7970 back in and it will boot, but it still will not allow me to get into the bios even after I updated to the latest version when I had my 670 installed. Besides this weird issue everything else is fine. Anyone had a similar experience?


I had a similar problem when I had the ud3. One of the reasons I returned it.... Was using the 7850 at the time.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

To get into the bios on mine I have to keep repeatedly hitting delete until it goes in. Once isn't enough. I'm running a 7970


----------



## daddyfatsax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> To get into the bios on mine I have to keep repeatedly hitting delete until it goes in. Once isn't enough. I'm running a 7970


I can hit the button a 100 times and it still won't go into the bios. F12 and F9 doesn't work either. Kind of annoying.


----------



## Hellsrage

Hmm weird mine works just fine running a 7950. I hit it once and in I go.


----------



## miklkit

I thought I had partly broken my ASUS HD 6950 when I flashed it to a hd 6970. It would no longer show the bios at all. I had to use an 8800GTS to get into the bios until I bought an MSI R6970 for crossfire. One push of the delete button does it every time now.

Whoda thunkit! Another bug.


----------



## FiatluX

I´m starting to regret that I bought this board..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> I´m starting to regret that I bought this board..


I've regretted it for months now lol. I finally get to enjoy my rig though now that I've fixed it....for now


----------



## bond32

The ud3 was the first board I got for my 6300. Had so many problems with it but the worst was simply getting into the bios. I literally had to press delete at the exact right time or I couldn't get in the bios. If too early, then it would just blank screen. Too late, windows boots. I am hoping the ud5 doesn't have the same problem otherwise I will have to get the sabertooth again.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I take that back, if I have my hard drives in IDE mode all it takes is hitting delete once to get in the BIOS. When I have RAID enabled I have to keep hitting it. Especially right after it detects the RAID array. If I don't hit DEL on the "blank" Award screen just after the RAID detection it won't go into the BIOS.

One thing that is driving me completely nuts is this on-off-on BS when using a different multiplier than auto. I'm actually running a bus overclock just to avoid that annoying crap. Can't even restart Windows without it power cycling. That cannot be good for hard drives...


----------



## vonss

¿Is just me or they are taking a very long time release some drivers updates for W7?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> One thing that is driving me completely nuts is this on-off-on BS when using a different multiplier than auto. I'm actually running a bus overclock just to avoid that annoying crap. Can't even restart Windows without it power cycling. That cannot be good for hard drives...


Yeah it's pretty irritating, on/off, on/off, on.


----------



## hurricane28

i don't have all your problems, i just hit delete when ever i want at boot and i get in the bios.

before or after i saw the gigabyte does not matter and even with my ud3 or ud5 no problems getting in the bios.

just make sure u hit delete several times but i am sure u already did that


----------



## bond32

Fingers crossed I won't have those issues again with the ud5... Those of you with problems getting in bios, wonder if it has anything to do with the video connection? I'm using hdmi to 1080p connection, curious if an adapter to use dvi would change anything.


----------



## daddyfatsax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Fingers crossed I won't have those issues again with the ud5... Those of you with problems getting in bios, wonder if it has anything to do with the video connection? I'm using hdmi to 1080p connection, curious if an adapter to use dvi would change anything.


I tried using a DVI to HDMI connector and that did not help. Also when I have my 7970 installed the splash screen is way too big, but with the 670 it is normal sized. Still cannot get into the bios, I have tried hitting delete only once after I see the splash screen and that didn't work. Also tried just holding down delete and that just goes to a black screen. I just can't understand why a graphics cards made by the same manufacturer as the board would have an issue like this.


----------



## Recursion

It seems your video card is malfunction. Can you disable the boot message from the video card or disable the splash screen of the mainboard and enable the post message? Did you tried your video card with another mainboard?


----------



## daddyfatsax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> It seems your video card is malfunction. Can you disable the boot message from the video card or disable the splash screen of the mainboard and enable the post message? Did you tried your video card with another mainboard?


The card runs fine in windows and works fine in my other rig, the one listed in my sig. I would have to switch cards in order to even get in the bios to disable that stuff. I have 4 7970's and they all do the same thing when I try to get into the bios. The nvidia 670 card will go right in the bios every time with no issue.


----------



## Recursion

Did you tried to disable pxe boot rom and minimize roms to load when the bios boot? Sometimes there isn't enough ram left. Usually the ram is limited to very tiny amount, less then a 1 megabyte for option roms. This is what I know with the older BIOS. In the new UEFI it may not so limited. However I wonder how 4 video cards can work anyway? But it seems there is a malfunction in the bios from the video card. From wikipedia: other ROMs can be located from segments C8000 all the way up to E0000. It's only about 120-131 kbytes??
Link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Option_ROM


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



The cause of the problem is that in order to be PC compatible, which is limited to read-only memory to 128th This is true for any motherboard with PC compatible BIOS.

In the common configurations, a newer AGP card (such as a Geforce 4) will require 64K ROM, so that you only left 64K option ROM space to work with. Many SCSI, NIC with PXE IDE RAID can so easily another 40-64K of option ROM space.

By design, the option ROM should shrink to a smaller run time code after the initialization code has been executed. For example, some Adaptec cards will require 32K to initialize. Then shrink to 12K at run time, while some GeForce 4 cards require 64K to initialize and never let go. Please check with the device manufacturer for the latest firmware upgrade or ask if they have made available a smaller Option ROM. Again, this is a limitation of the PC compatible specification and not a failure of the motherboard BIOS.



From: http://www.tyan.com/archive/support/html/f_s2466.html

The bios from my hd 6950 is 64 kbyte I think it shrink to less kbyte because I also have a crossfire but I have disabled pxe rom and raid rom option.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daddyfatsax*
> 
> I tried using a DVI to HDMI connector and that did not help. Also when I have my 7970 installed the splash screen is way too big, but with the 670 it is normal sized. Still cannot get into the bios, I have tried hitting delete only once after I see the splash screen and that didn't work. Also tried just holding down delete and that just goes to a black screen. I just can't understand why a graphics cards made by the same manufacturer as the board would have an issue like this.


Shot in the dark here, but what do you have connected on the back? Perhaps unplug everything except a keyboard and video. I might suspect my wireless adapter could have been causing problems too. Won't be able to troubleshoot till my ud5 gets delivered later today.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Fingers crossed I won't have those issues again with the ud5... Those of you with problems getting in bios, wonder if it has anything to do with the video connection? I'm using hdmi to 1080p connection, curious if an adapter to use dvi would change anything.


I use 2 displays 1 HDMI and 1 DVI and get in fine, I also got in fine when it was just HDMI.


----------



## bond32

Interesting... My ud5 should be in any minute now so I'll be able to work on any issues today. One big difference now as opposed to when I had the ud3 with all the issues, I now have a second 660ti in sli, doubt that will make any difference. Just really hoping the ud5 works perfectly. I have had terrible luck with these boards except the sabertooth so far. Sending the msi back today.


----------



## daddyfatsax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Shot in the dark here, but what do you have connected on the back? Perhaps unplug everything except a keyboard and video. I might suspect my wireless adapter could have been causing problems too. Won't be able to troubleshoot till my ud5 gets delivered later today.


I tried with just the HDMI, PS2 keyboard, and ethernet. Still nothing. I even tried it with the DVI to HDMI adapter.


----------



## bond32

Well this doesn't help, but I got the ud5 installed. Can enter bios with zero issues. Nothing like the ud3 was...


----------



## sabinus

UD3 makes you feel like buying a new car and replacing the radiator to drive it properly


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> UD3 makes you feel like buying a new car and replacing the radiator to drive it properly


It's the EA of motherboards.


----------



## sabinus

Maybe they intended a new line of products: DIY Motherboards..








Anyway, I kinda start to like it.. maybe I'm a bit masochistic.
With my new 8320 the throttling is very rare. I even managed to do a 15 Times CPU Burn @ 4600 Mhz without throttling.


----------



## bond32

Oh man, this ud5 is a keeper. Fantastic board so far, already have the 6300 running at a prime stable 5009 mhz. Ram is overclocked just under 2200... I'm excited!
http://valid.canardpc.com/2798816


----------



## Recursion

I have my ud3 rev 3 and my new amd-4170 @ 4780 mhz @ 230 mhz fsb @ 1.5v vcore quite stable. The speed is not so fast but not a surprise, too.


----------



## mfalconer

Gentlemen, recently I've bought one of this beauties, and I already had 2x4gb memory sticks Hynix branded (they were gifts from a supplier and they're a famous OEM RAM memory fabricant) @ 1600 Mhz. Now, I used to have them into a previous rig and they performed beautifully, however now... shows 6GB recognized by Windows 8 x64, 3.79GB "usable". I upgraded to the latest bios, tried with only one memory, with both altoghether, on slots 1-3, 2-4, 1-2, 1, 2, 3, 4, cleared CMOS, checked msconfig and only gets to 6GB (in MB's of course) reinstalled windows, tried with different memory sticks (one Kingston 4gb low profile @1333mhz, I don't know what else I could do. What do you recommend? Thank you in advance.


----------



## Red1776

well i'm happy with the king of the lineup


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> The instructions are actually in your Printed-MANUAL. I kind of looked and don't *recall* seeing any install-guidance on the BIOS download page.
> 
> Only tip I got from trying it, The preferred method is to have the expanded files on a flash/thumb drive and for whatever reason, "external-USB drive" does NOT = "flash/thumb" drive. I had the files on my 1TB external and the "quick-flash" utility could not see it.
> I had to copy the files to a "normal"(?) 16GB "thumb drive" and then Q-Flash found the drive.
> 
> Here's the part that kinda peeved me off. Once (you manually select) the flash-drive location, and files there-in appear, the Q-flash utility does NOT recognize the update an latch on to it. It's waiting for you to manually select the actual update file. Which if there was only one wouldn't be a thing but the EXE file you download produces THREE files. You have to just know (or guess well) which one it is because the q-flash routine DOES NOT.
> FOR THE RECORD that file name is: " 9FXAUD33.FC "
> LASTLY, "quick-flash"? psyche. Like there's some OTHER "less quick" method? (there is not) the q-flash takes about two minutes.
> 
> AND be advised, (I wished I'd known this) when you reboot the first time it seems to be posting, you see the new splash-screen and then... it goes black, and appears to be RE-POSTING again! I about freaked! . . . But, not to worry, after the second post it proceeds normally, the double-post-first-time is apparently a normal part of the update process.


UPDATE : So, I upgraded to the latest (FC) version of BIOS. Unfortunately it never made any difference, still get boot fails when I try to set it to an XMP Profile or even manually adjust the memory speed anywhere beyond 1333. I had sent in a question the Gigabyte technical support on the problem, here's their brief and pretty useless reply;

*"According to AMD you can only run 2X4GB in order to achieve 1866Mhz, the memory controller (CPU) can't guarantee that speed if not meeting the requirement.
For 32GB I suggest to set to 1600Mhz."*


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> I totally just did.
> REAL MEN HOLD DOWN THE SHIFT KEY.


Lol, or just men with really large flexible hands.

So I'm at sort of a frustrating impasse. My recent issues are now mostly handled with a new HDD, and I've yet to be brave enough to unplug the ethernet line and start the chore of trying to do a complete wipe of the old drive... Thankfully one of my dad's good friends who handled IT work for the lab he retired from a couple of years ago said he's willing to see if he can salvage the drive for me. But the more frustrating thing I've noticed is that I'm still having frequent crashes with Firefox 20.0.1, and I even had a BSOD within two hours of the fresh install on the new drive. It turned out that it seems to be a conflict between Gigabyte's F11 BIOS for the UD5 rev 1.1, AVG, Malwarebytes Anti-Malware, and AMD Catalyst 13.5 Beta... I was able to repair and restore the missing windows registries, have reverted back to AMD Catalyst 13.1 and the F9 BIOS, but Firefox remains an issue. For now, I'm running at stock clocks and voltages, save running my memory at the 1866 rated speeds and it seems to be working much better.

But with all the issues, and the fact that the more I'm researching into it... even though my UD5 has served me very well, with the persistent adherence to using AwardBios, and the .25 and .025 limitations to voltage jumps, as well as the very limited memory overclocking abilities... I hate to say it, but this could be one of the last builds I use a Gigabyte board in. Part of it is the disparity in the performance/price ratio between AMD and Intel and finally having the kind of disposable income to say f*** it and buy an Intel since AMD is so far behind the curve, but mostly, I'm getting to where I want a lot more control of tweaking and overclocking, something that Gigabyte simply refuses to offer us by sticking to AwardBIOS... a decision which makes no practical sense to me :headscratch:


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> UPDATE : So, I upgraded to the latest (FC) version of BIOS. Unfortunately it never made any difference, still get boot fails when I try to set it to an XMP Profile or even manually adjust the memory speed anywhere beyond 1333. I had sent in a question the Gigabyte technical support on the problem, here's their brief and pretty useless reply;
> 
> *"According to AMD you can only run 2X4GB in order to achieve 1866Mhz, the memory controller (CPU) can't guarantee that speed if not meeting the requirement.
> For 32GB I suggest to set to 1600Mhz."*


Hmmm... I call bs. Like I recommended in an earlier post, go to the GSkill forums and sign up starting a new thread in the appropriate subforum (http://www.gskill.us/forum/). Tradesman and GSKILL TECH are the two that helped me dial in my 4x8GB set at 1866. AMD can say whatever they want, but that probably refers ONLY to setting it by the XMP profiles. I had little problem running my full 32GB at stock clock and only had to bump the NB from 1.1 to 1.12V and the CPU +.25V to keep it stable with all 32 GB at the rated latency (timing 2T-10-11-10-30-5T row charge- 38T row cycle). You may have to make your settings a little different from mine, but start by trying that.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> Maybe they intended a new line of products: DIY Motherboards..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I kinda start to like it.. maybe I'm a bit masochistic.
> With my new 8320 the throttling is very rare. I even managed to do a 15 Times CPU Burn @ 4600 Mhz without throttling.


What did you have before upgrading to your Vishera? I'm running an 8120, and I notice that it throttles a lot on stress testing at higher overclocks (anything from 4300MHz and above)? I've been considering the upgrade of either an 8320 or 8350 to this tower despite my plans to build a new beasty rig for my birthday/Christmas present to myself... just wondering if the juice would be worth the squeeze so to say.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So Gigabyte VIP Support contacted me since I left such a stellar follow up review on Newegg. Funny how they didn't want to do anything until I posted my findings on a big site like Newegg for everyone to see... So this is what I sent to them. Lets see how they respond.

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte3_zpsb09cd6b4.jpg.html


----------



## Hellsrage

Wow. I never thought of writing a review on NewEgg....


----------



## Recursion

I don't think it's their fault. My crossfire hd 6950 also throttle in Furmark.


----------



## miklkit

Red1776, comparing your rig to my rig is like comparing a Ferrari to a Yugo. Wish I had a UD5.........

Recursion, could you elaborate? I have two HD6970s and did not have throttling issues until the high flow exhaust fan was installed, which disrupted the air flow to the VRMs. Now it throttles while playing games because they are getting hot again.

I've been trolling the Steam hardware forum. Should go visit Newegg and write a review too, since they are the one that recommended the UD3.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I don't think it's their fault. My crossfire hd 6950 also throttle in Furmark.


What's not who's fault? Its been known for some time now that when the Radeon drivers detect Furmark it throttles the card because Furmark has the ability to damage them.


----------



## Recursion

That's bs. Radeon driver throttle because the chip gets hots. When I have a custom wc loop it doesn't throttle. It's nothing to do with the software. Of course you can disassemble the software but I doubt it's doable at all.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> That's bs. Radeon driver throttle because the chip gets hots. When I have a custom wc loop it doesn't throttle. It's nothing to do with the software. Of course you can disassemble the software but I doubt it's doable at all.


Its very much to do with the software. Its been documented. I've seen it myself with my 7970, Crysis 3 gets my GPU hotter than Furmark does now. Nvidia does it too....

http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2250168

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/281396-29-furmark-score-stupidly-help

http://www.geeks3d.com/20101109/nvidia-geforce-gtx-580-the-anti-furmark-dx11-card/

And again what is not who's fault? The throttling isn't Gigabytes fault? I really hope that isn't what you are trying to say.


----------



## Fordox

if you increase the power limit in afterburner to +20%, it wont throttle.

furmark is an unrealistic load which draws a lot of power, so thats why you should increase the powerlimit.
it worked for me.


----------



## Recursion

I think we misunderstand here. It's the cooling. I'm talking about my 2 video card not the one from tomshardware. My software already throttle. Hence nothing to solve here. Maybe my the temp sensor is wrong when I run furmark? Personally I think 2-5 furmark is enough. About the vrm thing bad things happens. They should replace your the mainboard or send everbody an enzotech cooler. I'm now looking at asus m5a99fx evo rev 2. I like this mainboard. It has digital power and asus overclock ai. Overclock by hand is a pain in the ass.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I don't think it's their fault. My crossfire hd 6950 also throttle in Furmark.


Why is this post in this thread? I mean seriously... We are talking about gigabytes inability to identify an issue with their motherboard and you are talking about your video cards..


----------



## bond32

The first and third pcie slots run at 16x. So in sli, would it be possible to run the second card in the 5th slot? I know it would run at 8x then, but then the question is would that performance hit be bad?


----------



## Recursion

You can look at the benchmark3d website. There is an amd tool to check the pci-e slot and the video adapter speed. With 4x pci-e lanes it's 1 gb/s less about 60 percent. I didn't tried it with 8x pci-e lanes.


----------



## Recursion

I think throttleing is normal but I think also it's been a bad comment. Hence forget about it.


----------



## Red1776

This should answer many of mthe performance hit hit questions you have. you actually have to go down the pcie lane ladder a fair bit to see a hefty hit, especially with Radeon cards.



The rest of the article can be had here:

http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Intel/Ivy_Bridge_PCI-Express_Scaling/1.html


----------



## Recursion

With the amd tool it's more then 5% with 4x.


----------



## bond32

Wow, that's not as much as I thought. So I have 2 msi 660 ti's, the current config running them both in 16x on the ud5 board makes the top card get very hot because there isn't much airflow. Would you guys say it would be better to drop it to the lower pci slot?


----------



## Recursion

No.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> No.


Thanks


----------



## Recursion

Use a wc or liquid cooler. It depends how hot tough. My upper card gets over 100°C in furmark. With powertune it's worst. I think wc is the only solution with crossfire. Or you can try the 4x slot. But the performane would be bad. At least in furmark.


----------



## bond32

It isn't a 4x, it would run the main at 16 and second at 8x. For the ud5 that is, I believe.


----------



## Recursion

Check the amd tool from benchmark3d and you can see. But wc is king with crossfire!?


----------



## Recursion

Check the amd tool from benchmark3d and you can see. But wc is king with crossfire!?


----------



## bond32

The only tool I found on that site was this http://benchmark3d.com/how-to-test-your-pci-express-slot-speed which appears to only be for ati cards.

I just tested it, ran 3dmark11 at identical clocks. Scores were almost identical. Will run more tests but may run it like this - 16x on main, 8x on second card if there is no performance loss.

Edit: From this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1026833/pci-e-16x-sli-vs-8x-sli sounds like performance loss is minor.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> i don't have all your problems, i just hit delete when ever i want at boot and i get in the bios.
> 
> before or after i saw the gigabyte does not matter and even with my ud3 or ud5 no problems getting in the bios.
> 
> just make sure u hit delete several times but i am sure u already did that


I dunno, I, (so far anyway), must just have lucked into the perfect marriage with my UD3 and 6100 proc. So far I'm having no such issues.
If just flick the del key by accident at the wrong time and I'm IN. One tap works every time. And I was getting some ON-OFF stuff when tried to push OC'ing, but since I updated the BIOS, no "on-off" and I haven't had even a single boot fail, I've OC'd it for now as far as I dare (3.5 and mem @1866) without replacing the stock oem cpu hs&fan. I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus on the way. Still debating whether I want to bother with that other copper heat-sink oz was taking about.... as it turned out that other CPU cooler I posted a picture of did not have the necessary universal-mount-adapter to make it go from an 1155 to an A3. . .


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> The only tool I found on that site was this http://benchmark3d.com/how-to-test-your-pci-express-slot-speed which appears to only be for ati cards.
> 
> I just tested it, ran 3dmark11 at identical clocks. Scores were almost identical. Will run more tests but may run it like this - 16x on main, 8x on second card if there is no performance loss.
> 
> Edit: From this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1026833/pci-e-16x-sli-vs-8x-sli sounds like performance loss is minor.


Hmm, it depends on the quality not on the speed. So, it's difficult to say. I don't either what this amd tool does but here is an nvidia framebuffer tool: http://www.ngemu.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52992.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Frontbuffer reading speed (back)

Format: 01 - Speed: 37.7924 Mpix/s 113.377 MB/s

Format: 02 - Speed: 38.3307 Mpix/s 153.323 MB/s

Format: 03 - Speed: 38.7973 Mpix/s 116.392 MB/s

Format: 04 - Speed: 38.7755 Mpix/s 155.102 MB/s



Maybe it can test the pci-e lanes and devices with sli, too?

Update here is a more recent one build from nvidia: http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=253215&mpage=1


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> I dunno, I, (so far anyway), must just have lucked into the perfect marriage with my UD3 and 6100 proc. So far I'm having no such issues.
> If just flick the del key by accident at the wrong time and I'm IN. One tap works every time. And I was getting some ON-OFF stuff when tried to push OC'ing, but since I updated the BIOS, no "on-off" and I haven't had even a single boot fail, I've OC'd it for now as far as I dare (3.5 and mem @1866) without replacing the stock oem cpu hs&fan. I have a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus on the way. Still debating whether I want to bother with that other copper heat-sink oz was taking about.... as it turned out that other CPU cooler I posted a picture of did not have the necessary universal-mount-adapter to make it go from an 1155 to an A3. . .


well i did fry my UD3 because lack of vrm cooling so if u want to get max overclocks i would suggest to get better heat sinks on them like OZ did to keep them cool because they get hot very fast, also the Ud3 is a great overclocking board with really stable bios and settings but i did go for the UD5 with the reason that there are more capacitors on it so it is quite better build for overclocks but the rest is basically the same.

also the heat sinks on the UD5 are awesome and in my opinion looks very nice since i have a blue theme of my pc


----------



## OldStumo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Hmmm... I call bs. Like I recommended in an earlier post, go to the GSkill forums and sign up starting a new thread in the appropriate subforum (http://www.gskill.us/forum/). Tradesman and GSKILL TECH are the two that helped me dial in my 4x8GB set at 1866. AMD can say whatever they want, but that probably refers ONLY to setting it by the XMP profiles. I had little problem running my full 32GB at stock clock and only had to bump the NB from 1.1 to 1.12V and the CPU +.25V to keep it stable with all 32 GB at the rated latency (timing 2T-10-11-10-30-5T row charge- 38T row cycle). You may have to make your settings a little different from mine, but start by trying that.


Thanks SpacemanSpliff, I tried those adjustments and didn't have any luck. I registered on that G.Skill forum but it won't let me post a new thread, says I'm in the moderator's queue. There was one thread that had a similar RAM set/mobo/CPU setup, it didn't look like they were able to get the RAM to post at 1866 for the guy. Tradesman had an interesting link in the thread to an AMD page listing their suggested configurations for their CPU's ( http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles...encyguide.aspx ).

I did finally get the RAM to post at 1600 with no boot fails by manually adjusting the latency timings that were listed on the packaging. I'm sure I had tried that before and it didn't work, but maybe I didn't try it since updating to the FC version of BIOS... whatever, it's working at 1600 now anyway.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> What did you have before upgrading to your Vishera? I'm running an 8120, and I notice that it throttles a lot on stress testing at higher overclocks (anything from 4300MHz and above)? I've been considering the upgrade of either an 8320 or 8350 to this tower despite my plans to build a new beasty rig for my birthday/Christmas present to myself... just wondering if the juice would be worth the squeeze so to say.


I had another FX-8320 which overclocked worse. I mean it required 1.45 V for Prime @ 4.4 Ghz. This one requires 1.45 V @ 4.6 Ghz. So it overclocks 200 Mhz better at the same voltage.
Maybe you should go directly for 8350 if you have the money, it overclocks slightly higher than 8320.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> Thanks SpacemanSpliff, I tried those adjustments and didn't have any luck. I registered on that G.Skill forum but it won't let me post a new thread, says I'm in the moderator's queue. There was one thread that had a similar RAM set/mobo/CPU setup, it didn't look like they were able to get the RAM to post at 1866 for the guy. Tradesman had an interesting link in the thread to an AMD page listing their suggested configurations for their CPU's ( http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles...encyguide.aspx ).
> 
> I did finally get the RAM to post at 1600 with no boot fails by manually adjusting the latency timings that were listed on the packaging. I'm sure I had tried that before and it didn't work, but maybe I didn't try it since updating to the FC version of BIOS... whatever, it's working at 1600 now anyway.


I forgot to ask, do you have a UD3 or UD5? Over the last couple weeks I've started having a lot of trouble with my system and the latest response (the first official response from an actual Microsoft tech) told me that by the error codes, whatever the issue is it's strictly either the RAM going bad or a bad memory slot on the board itself... I'm going to test things out over the next couple of days and let everyone know whatever the most likely culprit is... I'm hoping it's the RAM which would still be under the the 1 year manufacturer's warranty (not to mention I still have a 16GB DDR3-1600 4x4GB set that I can fall back on in the mean time) but having to replace the motherboard would be a mean bite out of what I can afford atm... Please God let it be a bad DIMM stick, lol.

If it's a bad DIMM stick, I'll RMA the set and keep my fingers crossed that it was just a bad set, because this would be the first problem I've had with GSKILL ram in 3 years and I'd hate to see another bad set from them seeing as how their RAM is so much cheaper than Corsair Dominator Platinum of the same speed...


----------



## miklkit

I have been waiting for an uprated cpu fan for a while and it finally came in. While waiting this UD3 w/ 8350 was throttling in games because of the VRMs getting too hot. I could touch the case behind them and it was hot hot! Everything else was running ok with the cpu at 4.5ghz at 1.368v.
So last nite the Noctua fan came in and I re-arranged the furniture, then fired up a game. It ran fine with no throttling at all and the case was only warm, not hot. Then looked at hardware monitor and.........everything is different. The video cards and motherboard run cooler but the cpu runs hotter. How can a better cpu fan make the cpu run hotter? Is it because more hot air is getting to the cpu from the gpu's?
Ahh well, I always liked a good mystery.

EDIT 2 hours later: Nevermind. This thing is running cool today. With 2C cooler ambient temps it is running 11C cooler at 50C now.


----------



## hurricane28

hey Gigabyte fellas









i have question,

i have my CPU 8350 stable at 5ghz and RAM set to 2008 stable at stock clocks of 8-9-9-24
but i can't seemd to OC my CPUNB more than 2510 and HT link 2510

i can benchmark but i can't run any games because it crashes on me all the time

is there anyone who knows how to OC CPUNB and HT on UD5?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hey Gigabyte fellas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have question,
> 
> i have my CPU 8350 stable at 5ghz and RAM set to 2008 stable at stock clocks of 8-9-9-24
> but i can't seemd to OC my CPUNB more than 2510 and HT link 2510
> 
> i can benchmark but i can't run any games because it crashes on me all the time
> 
> is there anyone who knows how to OC CPUNB and HT on UD5?


I have good result with turion power control. It let you increment volts in small steps. I have my amd fx-4170 @ 4788 mhz @ 228 htt @ 2500 ht link @ 2280 mhz. Your overclock is quite good. I wouldn't change it so much?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I have good result with turion power control. It let you increment volts in small steps. I have my amd fx-4170 @ 4788 mhz @ 228 htt @ 2500 ht link @ 2280 mhz. Your overclock is quite good. I wouldn't change it so much?


yes my overclock is great and have the highest physics score i have seen but it is not 24/7 stable only for benchmarking.

but i want my CPUNB at 2750 and HT link too but no matter what i do and how many or low volts, i crash when play games so maybe i miss something to change? add some volts or?

if not i am happy with my overclock


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> I did finally get the RAM to post at 1600 with no boot fails by manually adjusting the latency timings that were listed on the packaging. I'm sure I had tried that before and it didn't work, but maybe I didn't try it since updating to the FC version of BIOS... whatever, it's working at 1600 now anyway.


I have 4x4GB of 1866 Crucial Tactical Tracer and have never gotten it to run at 1866 except through overclocking the FSB or CPU Frequency to 233 or 234.
You have to add +0.125 volts to the CPU NB VID Control
You will also have to lower the HT Link Frequency to x11 instead of Auto or x13 whichever you have.
That's what worked for me. I decided that it was getting to warm so I went a different route.
I left the HT Link Frequency on auto and put the CPU Frequency at 213 that gives me DDR3 1704 and then I tightend my memory timings.
Stock timings for mine are 9-9-9-27 and I now run them at 8-8-8-24 and I'm happy enough here.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hey Gigabyte fellas
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have question,
> i have my CPU 8350 stable at 5ghz and RAM set to 2008 stable at stock clocks of 8-9-9-24
> but i can't seemd to OC my CPUNB more than 2510 and HT link 2510
> i can benchmark but i can't run any games because it crashes on me all the time
> 
> is there anyone who knows how to OC CPUNB and HT on UD5?


One thing for sure is that your CPU is NOT stable at 5 Ghz and is pretty tricky to get it really stable at that frequency for too long.
As for CPUNB/HT overclock past 2600 I can tell you the performance gain is negligible.
Try increasing memory timings/or voltage a bit. What memory do you have ?


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> UPDATE : So, I upgraded to the latest (FC) version of BIOS. Unfortunately it never made any difference, still get boot fails when I try to set it to an XMP Profile or even manually adjust the memory speed anywhere beyond 1333. I had sent in a question the Gigabyte technical support on the problem, here's their brief and pretty useless reply;
> 
> *"According to AMD you can only run 2X4GB in order to achieve 1866Mhz, the memory controller (CPU) can't guarantee that speed if not meeting the requirement.
> For 32GB I suggest to set to 1600Mhz."*


sorry to hear that. Like I said with the difference in ram (total amount) and different CPU it was not unlikely your results might not mirror mine. That was a pretty brain-dead-or-did-you-just-not-bother-to-read-my-whole-email response you got from GB. I'd be like, "What part of NOTHING OVER 1333!!!" did you not understand???

Best I can suggest now is see if you can get 1X8 to run 1833 and if so stopwatch rendering a vid. then put the full 32 at 1333 back in and try the test again. See which is quicker. You might be surprised.
It may hate the 1 stick routine tho'/ Like the guy said 'it', likely prefers 2X4. But I get it, I do, If I'd sent that much dough on ram I'd be a tough sell to back down and an BUY MORE in order to run 2X4 or 4x4.
I priced those 32 gb kits. ... Glad I don't need that... especially in a performance line like the RipJaws


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> well i did fry my UD3 because lack of vrm cooling so if u want to get max overclocks i would suggest to get better heat sinks on them like OZ did to keep them cool because they get hot very fast, also the Ud3 is a great overclocking board with really stable bios and settings but i did go for the UD5 with the reason that there are more capacitors on it so it is quite better build for overclocks but the rest is basically the same.
> 
> also the heat sinks on the UD5 are awesome and in my opinion looks very nice since i have a blue theme of my pc


See that's the thing, in part, I'm NOT looking for "MAX-OC" My CPU is 3.3 stock, and I'll probably be content with something like 3.6.
I'm at 3.5 now with the OEM cpu cooler and no apparent problems. which I realize is next to meaningless since I've yet to do any stress testing.
just because it boots don't mean it ain't gonna fry. I get that.
I'll likely end up picking up that VRM HS eventually anyway. It's cheap and a no-fuss install, (unlike the CPU cooler I a have on the way that will require pulling the mb out completely, again....)


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So I'm not sure how long this UD3 is going to last. I was playing Farcry Blood Dragon the other day and could smell a faint hint of "burning" electronics. I can only assume its the VRM's though I still haven't seen any throttling. I find myself running Prime fairly often to see if it is. I can smell it during Prime too. I guess it is always possible it could be the little AMD fan spinning at 6K RPM too. I guess we will see what happens. I haven't heard anything back from Gigabyte "VIP" support either...


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> yes my overclock is great and have the highest physics score i have seen but it is not 24/7 stable only for benchmarking.
> 
> but i want my CPUNB at 2750 and HT link too but no matter what i do and how many or low volts, i crash when play games so maybe i miss something to change? add some volts or?
> 
> if not i am happy with my overclock


You can try amd overdrive. it has also autotune.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So I'm not sure how long this UD3 is going to last. I was playing Farcry Blood Dragon the other day and could smell a faint hint of "burning" electronics. I can only assume its the VRM's though I still haven't seen any throttling. I find myself running Prime fairly often to see if it is. I can smell it during Prime too. I guess it is always possible it could be the little AMD fan spinning at 6K RPM too. I guess we will see what happens. I haven't heard anything back from Gigabyte "VIP" support either...


I as well get a weird smell from my PC, I was wondering what it was since I built it. So I wrote that review on NewEgg as well so here's to saving people some money.


----------



## Recr3ational

has anyone got a picture of the UD5 with crossfire setup?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I as well get a weird smell from my PC, I was wondering what it was since I built it. So I wrote that review on NewEgg as well so here's to saving people some money.


Well that is reassuring lol


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Off topic, I decided to finally try Windows 8 today. Put it in a VM with 4 cores and 4gb of RAM. I can honestly say I hate it... The Metro UI is terrible. It took me several minutes to figure out how to close the Metro version of IE and the straw that broke the camels back was when I found settings for lock screen configuration. Lock screen settings for my full tower, connected to a TV gaming rig. Mobile device settings, on a full blown monster PC! I'm thinking Microsoft thinks people are stupid...


----------



## bond32

Yes I'm in the process of going back to windows 7. 8 is an absolute disaster.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> One thing for sure is that your CPU is NOT stable at 5 Ghz and is pretty tricky to get it really stable at that frequency for too long.
> As for CPUNB/HT overclock past 2600 I can tell you the performance gain is negligible.
> Try increasing memory timings/or voltage a bit. What memory do you have ?


dude i am running my CPU for weeks now with 5ghz so don't tell me it isn't stable.

i already did some memory timings and my memory performs at its best at 2008 with 8-9-9-24 timings.

and there is some improvement on the scores when i get from 2510 to 2750 CPUNB or HT link.

i got quite a view point getting from 2510 to 2750 so i want to keep it stable at those speeds.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yes I'm in the process of going back to windows 7. 8 is an absolute disaster.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Off topic, I decided to finally try Windows 8 today. Put it in a VM with 4 cores and 4gb of RAM. I can honestly say I hate it... The Metro UI is terrible. It took me several minutes to figure out how to close the Metro version of IE and the straw that broke the camels back was when I found settings for lock screen configuration. Lock screen settings for my full tower, connected to a TV gaming rig. Mobile device settings, on a full blown monster PC! I'm thinking Microsoft thinks people are stupid...


Get this program for Windows 8: http://startisback.com/

You could even share as it's $3 for 2 PCs. A video explaining why (Basically it turns it into Windows 7.5).


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I installed classic shell. It made desktop mode bearable.I'm still unhappy with all the mobile b.s. that is in it that can't be removed.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I installed classic shell. It made desktop mode bearable.I'm still unhappy with all the mobile b.s. that is in it that can't be removed.


Yeah Windows 8 for PC was a failure even Microsoft has finally come forward and agreed.


----------



## FiatluX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I as well get a weird smell from my PC, I was wondering what it was since I built it. So I wrote that review on NewEgg as well so here's to saving people some money.


I´m still @ stock speeds, changed the thermal paste on the NB and I´d still be able to fry eggs on it..Not to mention the VRM´s









Still waiting for the burning smell of imminent disaster tho!


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> See that's the thing, in part, I'm NOT looking for "MAX-OC" My CPU is 3.3 stock, and I'll probably be content with something like 3.6.
> I'm at 3.5 now with the OEM cpu cooler and no apparent problems. which I realize is next to meaningless since I've yet to do any stress testing.
> just because it boots don't mean it ain't gonna fry. I get that.
> I'll likely end up picking up that VRM HS eventually anyway. It's cheap and a no-fuss install, (unlike the CPU cooler I a have on the way that will require pulling the mb out completely, again....)


You should have no problem acheiving 3.6 by just bumping up the multiplier... I doubt you'd even have to bump the CPU VCore up +.25V. I found the most stable point for my 8120 was 4.0 with only a +.50V boost to the VCore. Usually AMD processors can make a 10 percent overclock without needing a voltage bump.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I hate how hot it gets here. Prime I'm seeing 65C, in TMPIN2. TMPIN1 is 61C. Not sure which is truly CPU temp. Crysis 3 had TMPIN2 up to 58C. Might be backing off my OC some. Still no thottling though. I have a bid in on a H100 so we'll see how things go on that.


----------



## Recr3ational

Where should I look for real vcore voltages? Because I'm sure my motherboards "healths status" is lying .....


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I hate how hot it gets here. Prime I'm seeing 65C, in TMPIN2. TMPIN1 is 61C. Not sure which is truly CPU temp. Crysis 3 had TMPIN2 up to 58C. Might be backing off my OC some. Still no thottling though. I have a bid in on a H100 so we'll see how things go on that.


I believe TMPIN2 is the socket temp which is good up to 72 C, shouldn't be anything to worry about. I have the h100i, it gets close to 72 when running my max overclock. Core temp is more important I believe which mine also scraps 62 C which is the limit for vishera.


----------



## miklkit

I found this thread that seems to be saying that the VRMs are good to 90C!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1383336/fx-8350-temperature-issue-on-990fxa-ud3


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Where should I look for real vcore voltages? Because I'm sure my motherboards "healths status" is lying .....


I use CPUz and Hardware Monitor to get my core voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I believe TMPIN2 is the socket temp which is good up to 72 C, shouldn't be anything to worry about. I have the h100i, it gets close to 72 when running my max overclock. Core temp is more important I believe which mine also scraps 62 C which is the limit for vishera.


What kind of OC are you pushing? I'm using a little Antec Kuhler 620, which is about equivalent to the Corsair H60, running 4.5ghz on my 8350. The bid I have in is on a H100 not the 100i, but I figure if I get it for what I have my bid at it would be worth while.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I use CPUz and Hardware Monitor to get my core voltage.
> What kind of OC are you pushing? I'm using a little Antec Kuhler 620, which is about equivalent to the Corsair H60, running 4.5ghz on my 8350. The bid I have in is on a H100 not the 100i, but I figure if I get it for what I have my bid at it would be worth while.


i have the h100i with the corsair sp120 performance fans in push pull and i have an OC of 5ghz stable with 1.6 volts.

i the max temp i got was 62c and it was pretty warm in my room than, but if it is not that warm like now i get 55c max at stress testing and gaming.

the h100i would be a better choice maybe because it has slightly better performance and in my opinion it looks way better

make sure u have hood static pressure fans mounted on them and have a good case airflow and u have one heck of a cooler


----------



## SavageBrat

Hello Folks.. avid reader but don't post very much,,so feel free to call me a rookie,, but i was running into a slew of headaches with my 8150 and the water cooler that came with it (basically it's the Antec 920 cooler) on a UD3 board (FC bios), it seem to always be ramping up(cooler) and the core voltage was all over the place so I lowered the voltage down so that it maxes at 124, will this hurt anything as it did quieted my system down? and I did manage to get my ram to run at 1600 and I kind of like win 8. I have a chance to get the UD5 board would it be better to oc with as I've seen a lot of folks having issues with the UD3? Sorry for the questions but still learning..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> i have the h100i with the corsair sp120 performance fans in push pull and i have an OC of 5ghz stable with 1.6 volts.
> 
> i the max temp i got was 62c and it was pretty warm in my room than, but if it is not that warm like now i get 55c max at stress testing and gaming.
> 
> the h100i would be a better choice maybe because it has slightly better performance and in my opinion it looks way better
> 
> make sure u have hood static pressure fans mounted on them and have a good case airflow and u have one heck of a cooler


Oh I agree that the H100i is the better cooler, but if I pick up the 100 for what I have bid then it would be a steal. I'm kicking the idea around of doing a full blown water setup again. I had one years ago on my old FX55.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Oh I agree that the H100i is the better cooler, but if I pick up the 100 for what I have bid then it would be a steal. I'm kicking the idea around of doing a full blown water setup again. I had one years ago on my old FX55.


aha oke, well the h100 is not a bad cooler and if u can get it for a very good price i should go for it









but make sure u get good static pressure fans on them because the pump of these coolers is not that great tho, so the cooling must be come from the fans.

some say that push is better and others says pull and some even say push pull, well in my experience it depends on how u mounted the rad and how good is your airflow in the case, i have very good airflow i think because when i added the other 2 fans to configure push pull the temp dropped 5c and maybe it is not much but under such a load at 5ghz it is pretty much.

but nothing beats a custom loop, but also it depends on what money u have to spend because when u buy an kit for 150 euro's it will simply not perform any better than the closed loop ones.

also i was looking in to the Cooler master eisberg 240Lthat performs way better than the Corsair ones i have heard also it is fully customizable


----------



## Hellsrage

It's getting to 100F+ here in Southern California and my room gets hot so I suspect I will have to lower all my OCs. I'll have to test one of my intensive games when it reaches 100F tomorrow.


----------



## Pudfark

I have had a h100i and a H110 on my UD3 8350 setup.
Currently running the H110. I took the H100i off, only because the "gadgets/fans" were not working.
The H100i is a great cooling unit (without functioning gadgets)...I was going to RMA it. Changed my mind and put it in the wife's rig.
Her rig is running a 790FXT-UD5 with a AMD 955 at 3.8ghz and it's cool as a cucumber. I then bought
the H110 with no "gadgets" for my 8350 and it works imho, equally well.

Note that both units run different pumps made by different folks. I like them both.
In no way am I "fronting" myself as an expert. I'm not. Just saying, they are simple and they work great.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I would go for a 110 or the NZXT Kraken but sadly my Twelvehundred only supports 120mm fans not 140's


----------



## Pudfark

I can understand that Ozz.

I had to "mod" both of my cases. Wife's is an Antec 900 with the H100i mounted on the top.
My case, a Antec Lanboy Air, which is basically a "screen door", has the H110 mounted on top.

Both "mod" jobs were very easy to do. I wouldn't call them purty...though they are very functional.
A Dremel tool, aviation shears and zipties are your friends.

I've got alot going on at the moment, though, I do see a SaberTooth or the other uber Asus board in my immediate future.
I have learned alot from this forum. Thank You and everybody here too.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> I have had a h100i and a H110 on my UD3 8350 setup.
> Currently running the H110. I took the H100i off, only because the "gadgets/fans" were not working.
> The H100i is a great cooling unit (without functioning gadgets)...I was going to RMA it. Changed my mind and put it in the wife's rig.
> Her rig is running a 790FXT-UD5 with a AMD 955 at 3.8ghz and it's cool as a cucumber. I then bought
> the H110 with no "gadgets" for my 8350 and it works imho, equally well.
> 
> Note that both units run different pumps made by different folks. I like them both.
> In no way am I "fronting" myself as an expert. I'm not. Just saying, they are simple and they work great.


yes what u mean is that the fans did not work when u connect them to the pump?
i had some issues with the fans also but i got new ones and yes they are utterly loud but they perform very very well.

i still have the problem that wen i connect them to the pump they make a grinding noise its hard to describe really but it is annoying, there would be an update any time soon so i hope it will solve that problem.

and i an very happy with its performance, but the block can be a pain to mount because i heard some people had troubles mounting it and get way too high temps because they did not mount it properly or tightened the screws not tight enough.

but for now i am happy and hoping the next update is soon and fixes some issues


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5360#post_19945643

The last couple of weeks have just fried my mind...but at long last, things are back to normal.... turns out (thankfully) that a bad DIMM was the root of all evils with my tower... that and AMD Catalyst being a whiny since I didn't have .NET framework ver 4 on the fresh windows install...



It's looking like unless I boost the cooling up a notch that I'll have to dial it back to 3.8 or 4.0... IBT was getting it pretty warm at 4200.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Off topic, I decided to finally try Windows 8 today. Put it in a VM with 4 cores and 4gb of RAM. I can honestly say I hate it... The Metro UI is terrible. It took me several minutes to figure out how to close the Metro version of IE and the straw that broke the camels back was when I found settings for lock screen configuration. Lock screen settings for my full tower, connected to a TV gaming rig. Mobile device settings, on a full blown monster PC! I'm thinking Microsoft thinks people are stupid...


maybe, or maybe they're just hoping to woo the mac crowd... just sayin'....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldStumo*
> 
> Thanks SpacemanSpliff, I tried those adjustments and didn't have any luck. I registered on that G.Skill forum but it won't let me post a new thread, says I'm in the moderator's queue. There was one thread that had a similar RAM set/mobo/CPU setup, it didn't look like they were able to get the RAM to post at 1866 for the guy. Tradesman had an interesting link in the thread to an AMD page listing their suggested configurations for their CPU's ( http://support.amd.com/us/kbarticles...encyguide.aspx ).
> 
> I did finally get the RAM to post at 1600 with no boot fails by manually adjusting the latency timings that were listed on the packaging. I'm sure I had tried that before and it didn't work, but maybe I didn't try it since updating to the FC version of BIOS... whatever, it's working at 1600 now anyway.


AWRite!!








Probably this won't and and I suspect you tried, but........
now that you got 1600 to fly have you tried 1866 again?


----------



## hajnalka

Hi,

I Have Gigabyte 990fxa-UD3 Revision 3
fx 8350
all is water cooling motherboard and CPU Laing pump XSPC reservoir top to pump 3x120fann in radiators.
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-amd-kit-nickel.html block to motherboard

I use Intel Q6600 my old pc.

How to overclock FX 8350 to 5Ghz In this board.What setting?
Voltage
Bus speed
and others.

Thanks

4x1866DDR3 4x4Gb =16Gb
Corsair Vengeance
9-10-9-27
1.50V


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I Have Gigabyte 990fxa-UD3 Revision 3
> fx 8350
> all is water cooling motherboard and CPU Laing pump XSPC reservoir top to pump 3x120fann in radiators.
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-amd-kit-nickel.html block to motherboard
> 
> I use Intel Q6600 my old pc.
> 
> How to overclock FX 8350 to 5Ghz In this board.What setting?
> Voltage
> Bus speed
> and others.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 4x1866DDR3 4x4Gb =16Gb
> Corsair Vengeance
> 9-10-9-27
> 1.50V


Set only the multiplier to go to 5 Ghz (x25)
Use at least 1.46-1.47 V in bios ... meaning you have to set at least +0.75 CPU vcore / +0.5 V NB Core
Leave HT and other NB settings at default.
Use XMP memory profile in bios with Auto timings.
Enable HPC Mode from advanced Frequency settings
Disable Turbo Boost / C1E / Cool&Quiet in Bios Advanced Frequency Settings
(use +/- or enter directly the values while in Bios)

I advise you to go at first for 4.8-4.9 Ghz with these settings and see if you are stable..
And of course, you have to actively cool the VRM area, it's not optional, unless you want to see a lot of CPU throttling or deliberately fry your motherboard and/or the CPU along with it.

Have fun.

Btw, I got into the 5 Ghz league by now..


----------



## Hellsrage

His board is water cooled so the temps should hopefully be fine.


----------



## ebduncan

hmms.

I don't have any motherboard issues with my UD3 rev 1.0. Maybe you can help me make a choice.
Option A
1. Sell my UD3 and buy a ASUS Crosshair V Formula Z (230$) Sell UD3- 80$
2. Sell my 8120 and buy a 8320 (164$) Sell 8120 100$
Option B
3. Keep both 8120 and UD3 and grab another radiator and a GPU water block. (7950 GPU) (200$)

I'd like to see how the Asus board stacks up against my UD3 rev 1.0 in the overclocking department. Opition B would give me the largest performance boost in games, as a water cooled graphics card would clocked much higher than it can on air due to heat concerns, as well as much my computer silent completely.

Hard choices. haha.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I finally heard back from Gigabyte's "VIP Support". As you can imagine they were super helpful and did their best to rectify the situation







I was also nice enough to respond.

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte4_zps247e68e2.jpg.html


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I finally heard back from Gigabyte's "VIP Support". As you can imagine they were super helpful and did their best to rectify the situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was also nice enough to respond.
> 
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte4_zps247e68e2.jpg.html


LOL. 50$/hour that's funny. Is this real? I was interviewed for a job and help an us guy and he wanted to pay me 50$ for 2-4 hours and I'm also a certified developer.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I finally heard back from Gigabyte's "VIP Support". As you can imagine they were super helpful and did their best to rectify the situation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was also nice enough to respond.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte4_zps247e68e2.jpg.html


That's a good one Oz. Is pretty similar to the answer I got from them. They are simply ignoring customers and playing dumb. Even their English is laughable.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> LOL. 50$/hour that's funny. Is this real? I was interviewed for a job and help an us guy and he wanted to pay me 50$ for 2-4 hours and I'm also a certified developer.


$50 an hour is around the going rate for system repairs ect. Some charge even more though.


----------



## runelotus

just wanny sare my problems with my 990FXA-d3 mobo too

We Share too the same problem with our mother boards



as you can see here my mother board bends a little bit when i put my hsf and when try to remove the board from its casing the boards flexes creaks



shown here my HR-09 mosfet heatpad shows that the outer 2 sets or mosfets that has firm contact with the heatpad

I think the Problem here is the Board PCB is way too flimsy , compared to old motherboards


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I Have Gigabyte 990fxa-UD3 Revision 3
> fx 8350
> all is water cooling motherboard and CPU Laing pump XSPC reservoir top to pump 3x120fann in radiators.
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-amd-kit-nickel.html block to motherboard
> 
> I use Intel Q6600 my old pc.
> 
> How to overclock FX 8350 to 5Ghz In this board.What setting?
> Voltage
> Bus speed
> and others.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 4x1866DDR3 4x4Gb =16Gb
> Corsair Vengeance
> 9-10-9-27
> 1.50V


IMHO, I would go after the RAM first, then CPU. I'm running Corsair Vengeance, (2X4) and I got it up to 1866 BUT ONLY after flashing the BIOS up to FC, If you look at the post in front of this one you see a case were OLDSTUMO had a lot of difficulty getting his memory over 1333 and his sticks were rated at 1600 stock. He had 32GB kit, you're at 16. GB tech support, (and I use both terms loosely) all but admits you might have issues anything over 8GB. All that said, I'd work on getting the memory up to 1866 first, solo, then once that's accomplished, I'd move on to V-Core and the rest CPU related. JMHO.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> $50 an hour is around the going rate for system repairs ect. Some charge even more though.


I think I asked him 50$/hour and 2 hours. But he wanted me to pay 25$/hour. But I solved his issue already. But I didn't get payed either.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> That's a good one Oz. Is pretty similar to the answer I got from them. They are simply ignoring customers and playing dumb. Even their English is laughable.


SEMI OT: At the risk of lowering my stock here even further, (or stating the obvious to most of us?), GB Tech support: While, yes, they have demonstrated (on average) a poor - to - BAD working knowledge of this particular board, and instead proven to be more adept at tap-dancing around and avoiding the issue and even hiding behind the "my-english-not-so-good" excuse. They are supposedly paid professionals whose job it is to BE knowledgeable and helpful. No one here would argue that they have earned mostly pretty low marks for that and I certainly am not. BUT in fairness,
just one point, these guys, (forget how much underpaid or not), they are expected to be guru-experts on DOZENS upon dozens of different GB boards, INTEL and AMD CS's, while we here have the time and ability to mi optically focus on just one board. A luxury they don't have. I for one am not really all that surprised that SEVERAL members of this thread, (myself probably not included), seem to know a lot more about this board than the guys tasked with answering tech support emails at GB.

OK NOW THAT SAID, I'll also say this. I don't need no "GB-Tech Support" lackey.
THIS BOARD, YOU GUYS are all the GB tech support I need.
The sole exception being if I ever needed to (try-and) RMA my board under OEM warranty.

You Guys Rock


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I think I asked him 50$/hour and 2 hours. But he wanted me to pay 25$/hour. But I solved his issue already. But I didn't get payed either.


yeah I've learned the hard way, always get at least half upfront. (yes wiseguys I get paid for stuff like this too!)


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I found this thread that seems to be saying that the VRMs are good to 90C!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1383336/fx-8350-temperature-issue-on-990fxa-ud3


Glad I caught this. My post, if actually read, was not discussing VRM temperature capabilities, I was talking about the Northbridge.

And the true original point of that post was to clarify which temp sensors are reading what on the 99FXA-UD3 specifically, as there seems to be a ton of misinformation on the subject.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> LOL. 50$/hour that's funny. Is this real? I was interviewed for a job and help an us guy and he wanted to pay me 50$ for 2-4 hours and I'm also a certified developer.


Yeah its real, its what I charge to do work for people. Normally I only charge for an hour because most things are easy enough and I'd feel like I was ripping them off. Friends and family are less/free of course. Compared to other shops around here I'm cheap. The want 60+ an hour, almost 150 for "spyware/virus removal"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> That's a good one Oz. Is pretty similar to the answer I got from them. They are simply ignoring customers and playing dumb. Even their English is laughable.


It is pretty bad. They have successfully cured me of ever giving them another dime.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runelotus*
> 
> just wanny sare my problems with my 990FXA-d3 mobo too
> 
> We Share too the same problem with our mother boards
> 
> 
> 
> as you can see here my mother board bends a little bit when i put my hsf and when try to remove the board from its casing the boards flexes creaks
> 
> 
> 
> shown here my HR-09 mosfet heatpad shows that the outer 2 sets or mosfets that has firm contact with the heatpad
> 
> I think the Problem here is the Board PCB is way too flimsy , compared to old motherboards


Oh yeah, you have the same exact issues I had. Don't even bother dealing with Gigabyte support, the don't even address that when I mention it and I have several times. I took a bunch of carboard strips stacked up and taped to the bottom of the board directly under the VRM's and then mounted the board. I used a fair amount of cardboard because it compresses fairly easily. I also flattened my board with a slide hammer but I don't recommend that unless you don't care if you break it lol. You'll find that getting the VRM chips to contact still isn't enough to stop the throttling, I do still recommend a good fan on it.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> SEMI OT: At the risk of lowering my stock here even further, (or stating the obvious to most of us?), GB Tech support: While, yes, they have demonstrated (on average) a poor - to - BAD working knowledge of this particular board, and instead proven to be more adept at tap-dancing around and avoiding the issue and even hiding behind the "my-english-not-so-good" excuse. They are supposedly paid professionals whose job it is to BE knowledgeable and helpful. No one here would argue that they have earned mostly pretty low marks for that and I certainly am not. BUT in fairness,
> just one point, these guys, (forget how much underpaid or not), they are expected to be guru-experts on DOZENS upon dozens of different GB boards, INTEL and AMD CS's, while we here have the time and ability to mi optically focus on just one board. A luxury they don't have. I for one am not really all that surprised that SEVERAL members of this thread, (myself probably not included), seem to know a lot more about this board than the guys tasked with answering tech support emails at GB.
> 
> OK NOW THAT SAID, I'll also say this. I don't need no "GB-Tech Support" lackey.
> THIS BOARD, YOU GUYS are all the GB tech support I need.
> The sole exception being if I ever needed to (try-and) RMA my board under OEM warranty.
> 
> You Guys Rock


Oh no I don't expect them to know everything. Which is why I sent them that hugely detailed email at first, going through what I found and what I did to solve it. I tried to do them a favor. Even after that they are still keeping up the dog and pony show. The whole warped board thing they have completely avoided in addressing, like they are ignoring it, at this point they should have refunded me or sent me a freaking T-shirt or something! At first all I wanted was them to address the issue, the more they avoid it the angrier they are making me. I did all the leg work for them. All they have to do is provide users with a new cooling solution and the guys with warped boards new boards with the new cooling solution.

The best they can muster up is the 8150 and 8350 are on the supported list. That didn't address anything, they acted like I was thinking about buying the board and they are confirming it works with what I want. Not that I already own it and it has the potential to burn down my house because it can't handle the power draw of these CPU's. I'm kind of paranoid of it. The machine gets shut off now when I"m not around because I happen to like the things I have lol.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Glad I caught this. My post, if actually read, was not discussing VRM temperature capabilities, I was talking about the Northbridge.
> 
> And the true original point of that post was to clarify which temp sensors are reading what on the 99FXA-UD3 specifically, as there seems to be a ton of misinformation on the subject.


Think of that 90C remark as a flyer to attract attention. The VRMs throttle at 65C. The Northbridge does consist of VRMs doesn't it? Rookie here. Anyway, I wanted others to see that information. On my board the Northbridge and the cpu run at virtually the same temperatures.

Methinks something happened to this UD3 2 days ago. I had it stabilized and was working on just fine tuning it when the temps just took off. It was overheating just playing games that had always run cool before. Checking found that the fans were not spooling up at higher temperatures! Setting them manually has it running ok again, but this morning just sitting here surfing the webs the Northbridge is going from 19C to 43C and back down again in a second. This board was not warped a few days ago.









Ha! Just because those CPUs actually fit this board does not mean that the UD3 is capable of handling them. IMO the beancounters stripped vital components off it in order to save a few pennies. I won't be able to buy another mobo until next fall and am just trying to keep this junk alive until then.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Think of that 90C remark as a flyer to attract attention. The VRMs throttle at 65C. The Northbridge does consist of VRMs doesn't it? Rookie here. Anyway, I wanted others to see that information. On my board the Northbridge and the cpu run at virtually the same temperatures.
> 
> Methinks something happened to this UD3 2 days ago. I had it stabilized and was working on just fine tuning it when the temps just took off. It was overheating just playing games that had always run cool before. Checking found that the fans were not spooling up at higher temperatures! Setting them manually has it running ok again, but this morning just sitting here surfing the webs the Northbridge is going from 19C to 43C and back down again in a second. This board was not warped a few days ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ha! Just because those CPUs actually fit this board does not mean that the UD3 is capable of handling them. IMO the beancounters stripped vital components off it in order to save a few pennies. I won't be able to buy another mobo until next fall and am just trying to keep this junk alive until then.


the Ud3 supports the 8 core processors. I've had zero issues with my UD3 Rev 1.0. Only issues I had were when the Fx processors were just released, the board would throttle, had to open up AMD Overdrive, turn on turbo, and then turn turbo off, was the work around to fix this issue. It was later resolved via Bios update. (F5 bios had this issue) Also had some working issues with cool and quiet in the early revisions of the bios.

Seems Gigabtye really dropped the ball on the revision 3.0 boards. Trying to put the UEFI bios.Given the amount of support going towards these boards, they should have another bios update to fix the revision 3.0 issues, or they simply don't care.

I'm not sure why you fellows are having issues with the motherboard warping, No Warp here. The first day i owned my UD3 I replaced the plastic push pins with nuts and bolts and replaced the TIM with high quality stuff. I saw the design and was installing the board and decided their solution was not 100% legit. (the heatsinks wobbled horribly and make poor contact) I also installed a Fan over my VRM./Northbridge to aid my attempts to overclock as i noticed them getting pretty hot. The 80x80x25mm fan was more than enough to keep them cool, and it wasn't really needed but I like the safe side of things.

In all the gigabyte board is what you would expect for its price point . 3 Stars out of 5 offers good bit of features, but they needed to invest more into the boards cooling/ mounting solution, and have better support with Bios.


----------



## bond32

It's really a shame about all the issues with the ud3. I was nervous getting the ud5 in after reading all the stories but I have to say so far the ud5 is performing better than the sabertooth. Highly recommend spending the extra for the ud5 now rather than the ud3, even though I still find the ud3 to look better.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Oh no I don't expect them to know everything. Which is why I sent them that hugely detailed email at first, going through what I found and what I did to solve it. I tried to do them a favor. Even after that they are still keeping up the dog and pony show. The whole warped board thing they have completely avoided in addressing, like they are ignoring it, at this point they should have refunded me or sent me a freaking T-shirt or something! At first all I wanted was them to address the issue, the more they avoid it the angrier they are making me. I did all the leg work for them. All they have to do is provide users with a new cooling solution and the guys with warped boards new boards with the new cooling solution.
> 
> The best they can muster up is the 8150 and 8350 are on the supported list. That didn't address anything, they acted like I was thinking about buying the board and they are confirming it works with what I want. Not that I already own it and it has the potential to burn down my house because it can't handle the power draw of these CPU's. I'm kind of paranoid of it. The machine gets shut off now when I"m not around because I happen to like the things I have lol.


Oz, I agree with you 110%. I don't know which is sadder, the possibility that they actually ARE as dumb as they seem to be, or, more likely, the odds that they are pretending to be a lot less knowledgeable than they really are because if they admit you're right and they really DO know exactly what you're talking about, they lose any remaining basis for denying us, as you put it, "cooling solutions" and were appropriate, "new boards". Because, obviously, apparently, their primary marching orders, above all else, is to NEVER provide answer to a customer that involves the possibility of costing the company any money, or worst of all, settig a precident that might cascade into hundreds of customers getting new boards or even just $20 VRM heat sinks, which bought in volume would probably cost them about 3 bucks per.
And/but, here's the other thing, from what I've heard, ASUS customer service ain't significantly better. None of them are. Myself? I do my DD, I try to buy the best board I can for the $ and as long as it don't arrive, DOA, after that I just assume, I'm pretty much on my own. Except for places like this board. 10 times more usefull than GB customer service could ever hope to be.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Think of that 90C remark as a flyer to attract attention. The VRMs throttle at 65C. The Northbridge does consist of VRMs doesn't it? Rookie here. Anyway, I wanted others to see that information. On my board the Northbridge and the cpu run at virtually the same temperatures.
> 
> Methinks something happened to this UD3 2 days ago. I had it stabilized and was working on just fine tuning it when the temps just took off. It was overheating just playing games that had always run cool before. Checking found that the fans were not spooling up at higher temperatures! Setting them manually has it running ok again, but this morning just sitting here surfing the webs the Northbridge is going from 19C to 43C and back down again in a second. This board was not warped a few days ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ha! Just because those CPUs actually fit this board does not mean that the UD3 is capable of handling them. IMO the beancounters stripped vital components off it in order to save a few pennies. I won't be able to buy another mobo until next fall and am just trying to keep this junk alive until then.


AND it's the same beancounters that are making sure none of the help-desk pee-ons give any answers that even _*might*_ involve costing the company dime-one.

Honestly I feel pretty strongly that the 95w 6000 series chips are much better match for this board. too obvious?


----------



## Baskt_Case

My board is an RMA'd Rev. 1.1 that I purchased used, and so far so good. Throttling has never been an issue for me on this board and I've been very pleased with my temps. The most I've ever pushed was 1.52v @ 4.8GHz on the CPU.

Right now it's set at +.075 CPU and +.025 CPU NB and I'm reading 1.44vcore (1.45 max) while Folding @ 4.6GHz. Oddly enough, I was IBT and Prime stable with no boost to CPU NB voltage, but promptly crashed when I started Folding. RAM is stock at 1866 and my CPU NB at 2200. So far, nothing has been able to stabilize a CPU NB overclock on this board, so I've nearly given up on that. I can do MaxxMEM runs at 2400 but it crashes everything else.

Folds like a champ though! PPD is a little on the low side in this shot. Usually it's 19-20K but I had it shut down for a while to play with my overclock.


----------



## miklkit

Err, what is folding?


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Err, what is folding?


Look here: *OCN [email protected] Team*


----------



## Pudfark

UD3 rev 1.1 and 8350 here. I had a successful stable O'clock of 4.6 on multi and volt increase for three months. Now, throttling and overheating is an issue, VRM, I am certain. Have adjusted O'clock to 4.4 by reducing multi and voltage. Currently running 1.440 volts....and it's still getting warmer than I would like.

I'm done with this darn board. Will be buying asus crossfire next month and tossing this board where it belongs.
This is what I "think" I've learned? Never buy a lower end board like a UD3. Buy the higher end like a UD7. Apply that logic to all manufacturers. It just ticks me off, as a single GPU user, to have to buy a 4 slot card in order to get a better more stable board.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> UD3 rev 1.1 and 8350 here. I had a successful stable O'clock of 4.6 on multi and volt increase for three months. Now, throttling and overheating is an issue, VRM, I am certain. Have adjusted O'clock to 4.4 by reducing multi and voltage. Currently running 1.440 volts....and it's still getting warmer than I would like.
> 
> I'm done with this darn board. Will be buying asus crossfire next month and tossing this board where it belongs.
> This is what I "think" I've learned? Never buy a lower end board like a UD3. Buy the higher end like a UD7. Apply that logic to all manufacturers. It just ticks me off, as a single GPU user, to have to buy a 4 slot card in order to get a better more stable board.


What I've learned
I confess, I bought this board with higher OC'ing expectations than I've now come to accept will be possible without a lot more add-on after market cooling solutions, jerry-rigging and flat-out-RE-ENGINEERING of the board than I'm willing deal with. But not much more. Mostly by virtue of my 95w 6100 CPU, I expect to be able to achieve about 70% of the OC I'd hoped for, with only beefed up CPU cooler and (probably the VRM HS), and keeping consideration for WHAT I PAID for this board I'm not especially dissapointed. I realize that those of you with 8-core's are in a different situation. The board was/is advertised with certian capabilities, giving you not unreasonable expectations you'd be able to OC to rates that are in fact NOT possible, without major add-on/re-engenering and even WITH THAT you're still risking, warping, throttling and worse.
Cutting to the chase, I agree with Pudfark, but I'd add, "Never buy a lower end board like a UD3 and match it with a higher-end CPU (like the FX-8000 series). OR put another way, if your CPU costs a lot more than your MB there might be something wrong with that picture.... My personal rule-of-thumb is to NEVER pay more for the CPU than I paid for the MB I'm matching it with. I paid $135 for my UD3 and $105 for my 6100 and they seem to be pretty much buds.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

BUT JUST ME WAIT!
1. I havn't yet actually tried to OC to the point I THINK I'll be able to once I get my new CPU cooler.
2. once that's done I'll have to do SOME sort of stress testing as yet none done at ANY OC.
3. last but not least the temps here haven't hit the summer highs here yet, which will be high 80s to low 90s and that's when I'll be doing my stress testing. AND
(4?) while my apt is AC-equipted I currently have NO plans to turn it ON. I have cealing fans in every room and I plan on that being good enough. Soooo homeboy here could well still be in for a bit of a reality check....







(through the graveyard?)


----------



## miklkit

Yeah, methinks the 4XXX and most 6XXX series users will be ok, but the 8XXX users are out of luck on anything over stock voltages. This one was ok until I gave it a click up on the VCORE. It's 2 clicks up now and warped, but only at the Northbridge VRMs.
I have learned that airflow management is critical and I still have some learning to do.

I got a scare earlier. Decided to play a game for a bit. When I bailed out and checked temps the mobo looked ok but the 2nd video card was pegged both in usage and temps! Shutterdown!
It seems the PSU was running hot and sending hot air to the VC, so a cleanout happened. I took the opportunity to pull the mobo and checked the Northbridge. When I replaced the stock heatsink with the Enzotech one the mobo was straight, but now it is warped there. So I slapped some goo on it and bolted it down tight. That seems to have helped.
The next step is to improve airflow to the top rear of the case. Dunno how to do more since there are already 3 120mm fans jammed in there with 4 more 120s blowing in from the front and top. Time to pester the people in the air cooling section here.


----------



## miklkit

I spent a few hours working on this board and other bits and pieces today. The Enzotech Northbridge cooler is now bolted down tightly to the warped board. The board was not warped when it was first installed as a preventative measure. It is now running hotter than before too. I need to learn more about case air flow and fans.
Whatever it takes to keep it alive a while longer.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So Gigabyte "VIP Support" got back to me again. This time is even better than the last. Brace yourselves for the wisdom they have bestowed upon me this time....

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte5_zpscd59de99.jpg.html

Since all the reviews on Newegg are all positive and nobody has ever left a review complaining about throttling on this board, I'm asking you guys that are experiencing throttling, warped boards, VRM issues... to email their VIP Support. It seems that they aren't aware of this issue! The VIP Support email is [email protected] You can even tell them I sent you.

This is my response to them.

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte6_zpsf7ea7e33.jpg.html

Does anybody know anything about contacting a writer at Anandtech or Tom's? Or any other hardware review site? They want to dick us around I think its time we take this to the next level and really hit them in the wallet.

*edit* I just shot an email to Ian Cutress at Anandtech about this. Hopefully I hear back from him. I'll keep you guys posted.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I spent a few hours working on this board and other bits and pieces today. The Enzotech Northbridge cooler is now bolted down tightly to the warped board. The board was not warped when it was first installed as a preventative measure. It is now running hotter than before too. I need to learn more about case air flow and fans.
> Whatever it takes to keep it alive a while longer.


Get 4 or 5 strips of cardboard and put directly under the VRM area of the motherboard. When you mount the board that will cause pressure to push the board up in that area forcing the VRM chips into the heatsink. It was the only way for me to correct the warping issue.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So Gigabyte "VIP Support" got back to me again. This time is even better than the last. Brace yourselves for the wisdom they have bestowed upon me this time....
> 
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte5_zpscd59de99.jpg.html
> 
> Since all the reviews on Newegg are all positive and nobody has ever left a review complaining about throttling on this board, I'm asking you guys that are experiencing throttling, warped boards, VRM issues... to email their VIP Support. It seems that they aren't aware of this issue! The VIP Support email is [email protected] You can even tell them I sent you.


Funny enough someone made a review after us stating he is running his 8350 5.1GHz stable 24 Hour Prime95 test on air....

I'll send an email to them soon, I go ahead and get some nice pictures of the problem for them since words are to much to handle.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I would say he isn't paying attention to voltages and clock speeds while its Priming or he is extremely lucky.

Oh and Gigabyte is avoiding the topic of warped boards like the plague too. No mention of that at all.


----------



## Baskt_Case

I've hit my wall on this board, I can get 4.7GHz stable at 1.52vcore but the temps start getting scary. 62c core and 75+ on the northbridge. I can get my temps well into the safe zone if I drop the A/C in here down to 16C but normally it's 24C in here so that's a no go for 24/7 overclock.

I could not stabilize 4.8GHz @ 1.55vcore and I'm not willing to go any higher. I've dropped back down to 4.6 @ 1.45. I'd rather have my setup live for a couple months.

Maybe when I upgrade to push/pull and figure out a better cooling solution for my northbridge I will feel better about going 4.7 full-time.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So Gigabyte "VIP Support" got back to me again. This time is even better than the last. Brace yourselves for the wisdom they have bestowed upon me this time....
> 
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte5_zpscd59de99.jpg.html
> 
> Since all the reviews on Newegg are all positive and nobody has ever left a review complaining about throttling on this board, I'm asking you guys that are experiencing throttling, warped boards, VRM issues... to email their VIP Support. It seems that they aren't aware of this issue! The VIP Support email is [email protected] You can even tell them I sent you.
> 
> This is my response to them.
> 
> http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/gigabyte6_zpsf7ea7e33.jpg.html
> 
> Does anybody know anything about contacting a writer at Anandtech or Tom's? Or any other hardware review site? They want to dick us around I think its time we take this to the next level and really hit them in the wallet.
> 
> *edit* I just shot an email to Ian Cutress at Anandtech about this. Hopefully I hear back from him. I'll keep you guys posted.


I mentioned the issues that many of the UD3 owners on here are having with their boards in the review I just wrote today for my UD5... not that it really helps your cause that much, but if it steers the thorough buyer away from a board plagued with issues, at least it might save one person the headache and extra cash it has cost some of you.


----------



## miklkit

This UD3 motherboard is dying. I turned it on this morning and CPUID Hardware Monitor is showing insane stuff.
This board has 4 fans plugged into it. Two system and two PWM. The system fans are showing up, but one PWM is not and the other is showing impossible RPMs. Temps are all over the place too. The current ambient is 20 C / 68 F.
There are three other case fans running off the PSU also and all fans are 120mm.

I also wrote a review on Newegg last night. That one guy is in denial.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Wow! I need to borrow that fan! lol. Honestly I'm pretty sure mine is going to die. With as hot as those VRM's get even with the copper heatsink and the foghorn strapped to it, its obvious they were not designed with the 8350 in mind. I just hope it dies quietly and doesn't start a fire. Or I have the money to replace it before that happens...


----------



## bond32

Just a thought, but have those of you with the ud3 tried heatsinks on the backside of the board too? I found these in some old stuff I had, pretty nice heavy copper ones:


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I think that would be a no no. If they happen to cross a circuit it will fry the board/anything attached to it. Also I know my board doesn't have room between the mounting plate and the board.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I think that would be a no no. If they happen to cross a circuit it will fry the board/anything attached to it. Also I know my board doesn't have room between the mounting plate and the board.


I definitely would not have room either. But it does bring to mind somewhat similar idea. True, in most cases it would be challange to get one of those things attached somewhere that it would be particularly benificial, AND NOT at the same time ground-out or short the wrong contact. But assume for a second that you wanted to be able to try it. You'd have to somehow create the necessary clearance. . .







! Obviously you'd need taller STANDOFFS. Something like 12 or 14mm. (I dunno if they even make them) so anyway, even if you ultimately were unsuccessful in placing one of the heat sinks, the additional clearance ALONE would have to have a significant positive effect on AIR-FLOW under the board. and obviously it wouldn't be too tough to add a small fan, like say, off an old HD cooler... the trick of course would be finding 12-14mm stand-offs.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> I definitely would not have room either. But it does bring to mind somewhat similar idea. True, in most cases it would be challange to get one of those things attached somewhere that it would be particularly benificial, AND NOT at the same time ground-out or short the wrong contact. But assume for a second that you wanted to be able to try it. You'd have to somehow create the necessary clearance. . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! Obviously you'd need taller STANDOFFS. Something like 12 or 14mm. (I dunno if they even make them) so anyway, even if you ultimately were unsuccessful in placing one of the heat sinks, the additional clearance ALONE would have to have a significant positive effect on AIR-FLOW under the board. and obviously it wouldn't be too tough to add a small fan, like say, off an old HD cooler... the trick of course would be finding 12-14mm stand-offs.


aaaand of course you'd have to pretty much kiss you back pannel faceplate goodbye.... and expansion cards might not seat low enough to secure with a screw..... aaahhh as Rick Perry would say.... "Opps...!" .


----------



## Baskt_Case

Some cases such as mine for example already accommodate a fan on the backside pointing at the socket.

I suppose you could put heatsinks on the back if you used thermal pads but clearance would be a whole other issue.

Shouldn't have to go through all that just to get satisfactory performance from a board that was supposedly engineered and then marketed for overclocking purposes.

I know I'm having decent results right now but I've only had mine up and running for about 3 weeks. It was fresh from RMA when I got it so now reading through this thread I'm scared this thing is going to slowly cook itself to death. Here in a few days I'm going to redo my fan setup and take a closer look at my VRM heatsinks and see what I can do to stem off any problems before they start, hopefully. Already have contingency plans to just buy a new board altogether in a few months, if I make it that far.

Right now I've just got a spare 80mm rigged up over the NB...


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Honestly I'd move that 80mm from the NB to the VRM's. They are what is causing the problem, I've yet to have an issue with the NB.


----------



## hajnalka

Water block for Gigabyte motherboard come 2-3 week
Very bad original thermal grease and heat pad.
Heat pad for VRM is soft other is horrible in use Southbridge and Northbridge.

Last two Mosfet is covered cca 70percent in VRM.


----------



## Baskt_Case

That is what I will probably do. I've got an 80mm shroud that I made from an old fan a couple years ago, so I may end up doing something similar to your setup with a shrouded fan directly over the VRM's. Surely I am getting decent suction flow over the heatsink from the Corsair 120mm fans up top though.


----------



## Pudfark

Earlier this morning...I wrote a review at the EGG...I gave the board 3 eggs and said it was not a 8 core overclockable board.
Good for 4 cores and mild overclock. I really believe, based upon my experience and those of others that have posted here,
that it's not a matter of "IF" you're gonna have a problem? It's a matter of "WHEN". Seems to me the more heat put on the board
by overclocking the cpu, the faster "it will" fail. A high end ASUS for me, sooner than later. That's gonna be my solution.


----------



## miklkit

I am embarrassed again..............









Last nite I took the puter all apart and cleaned the PSU filter, cleaned and regooped a video card, cleaned and regooped the CPU heat sink, regooped the Enzotech cooler and bolted it down with real actual nuts and bolts, and then reassembled it.
Now the fan for the Arctic A30 fits into a plastic case which snaps onto the heat sink. The cord for said fan is too long so I have been running it around the outside of the cover to the plug on the mobo. This last time I ran it around between the fan and the case for neatness, plugged the thing in and it ran, then went to bed.
So this morning when I saw those numbers while mostly asleep I freaked.







After some coffee I looked into it and the CPU fan was not turning. It seems that the cord was distorting the fan frame enough that the fan could not turn. So now the fan is spinning and the cord is snaking all over the place. Here is the normal numbers after running a game for a while. Only the video card numbers are off now. It should read 92C max instead of 52C max.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Some cases such as mine for example already accommodate a fan on the backside pointing at the socket.
> 
> I suppose you could put heatsinks on the back if you used thermal pads but clearance would be a whole other issue.
> 
> Shouldn't have to go through all that just to get satisfactory performance from a board that was supposedly engineered and then marketed for overclocking purposes.


absolutey right. and that's really the bottom line here. IF the board wasn't maketed as an OVERCLOCKER's board it would be fine. Leave everything at stock and no problem.
But that's not how the board is advertised....
MARKETED for OVERCLOCKING? CHECK!
ENGINEERED for OVERCLOCKING? .....opps.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Earlier this morning...I wrote a review at the EGG...I gave the board 3 eggs and said it was not a 8 core overclockable board.
> Good for 4 cores and mild overclock. I really believe, based upon my experience and those of others that have posted here,
> that it's not a matter of "IF" you're gonna have a problem? It's a matter of "WHEN". Seems to me the more heat put on the board
> by overclocking the cpu, the faster "it will" fail. A high end ASUS for me, sooner than later. That's gonna be my solution.


I gave it a 1 Egg, it is okay for use in non 8 core CPU but AM3+ has one more release so for the long run it's a waste of money as most will probably upgrade to a better CPU be it the current 8 core CPUs or the new ones and if they did they would be just as crewed as us, I stressed that in my review so hopefully people see it.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I gave it a 1 Egg, it is okay for use in non 8 core CPU but AM3+ has one more release so for the long run it's a waste of money as most will probably upgrade to a better CPU be it the current 8 core CPUs or the new ones and if they did they would be just as crewed as us, I stressed that in my review so hopefully people see it.


YEP, my 6100 is as good ad as this board is going to get. When the time comes upgade the CPU it'll be a new board to go with it.
I'll post a review at the egg too. I didn't get it from them so I won't be a "verified owner" but I'll do it anyway. We need to bring the average down. New-buyer-Overclockers are being misled. It's wrong.


----------



## miklkit

Yes hajnalka, the VRM heatsink is poorly done. The other heatsinks work well enough for me. I put the Enzotech heat sink on with extra paste and it still runs hotter than I like.

The bios in this UD3 board reset itself today. All is well for now,but who knows for how long?

I've been looking at other boards and this UD3 comes as close as any to being laid out just how I want. So far only the MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2 has a layout that looks like it will work for me. The problem is I'm afraid of MSI boards.


----------



## sabinus

*Ozz*, this is what I sent to the last email address ([email protected]) you provided:

_"I contacted you to confirm that the motherboard GIgabyte FXA-990 UD3 board does CPU THROTTLING in 100% load stress test (Prime/OCCT) with AMD FX-8320 with frequencies over 4 Ghz after a few minutes for an ambient temperature over 28 degrees Celsius or after longer periods for ambient temperatures below 28 Celsius.
In many regions of the worlds the ambient temperature frequently exceeds 28 degrees..
This is why some technicians from Gigabyte responded that they have tested the UD3 board without encountering throttling.
This situation requires us to buy after market VRM cooling solutions which are NOT cheap.
The second problem: UD3 motherboard has NO option to turn off Application Power Management in Bios. Other users from various forums (overclockers.com) say that you promised to release a new Bios version to address at least this problem... that was over a month ago and still you didn't release the new Bios.

Me and other customers hope that Gigabyte really consider resolving these problems instead of providing empty answers.
It would have been justified to offer us to replace the obvious insufficient VRM cooling heat-sink of the FXA990-UD3 boards with a more adequate one, like the heat-pipe solution on the UD5 and UD7 boards.

Regards, "_
Hope it helps.

BTW, I changed my OC strategy a bit:
1. I upgraded my case: now I have a NZXT Phantom 410 (99$ in USA). It's the best case for the money.
2. I added 2 more 120 mm fans (one to double front air intake + one mounted on the inside craddle, directing intake air to the northbridge). I plan to add a second top exhaust fan to further improve on CPU temps.
3. Replaced my 5 year old faithful Sirtec 560 Watt PSU with a new, budget PSU: Intertech (German brand) 750 Watt quad rail (4x20A)
4. Lowered the 140 mm middle Noctua NH-D14 fan until it touched the HS base to blow some air directly towards the VRM HS. I also replaced the Noctua thermal paste with Arctic Silver 5 (it never disappointed me).
5. Removed the 80 mm Glacialtech slim fan that I used previously to cool the VRM area.

*The results:* Drastic overall system noise decrease, 5 degrees drop on the CPU (due to top 140mm exhaust fan) and no throttling with all case fans at "High". Even with the case fans at "Medium", the throttling appeared only once in 45 minutes.

The test was: CPU:OCCT / Large Data Set @ 4.42 Ghz / 1.4V CPU (bios: +0.000 CPU vcore / +0.025 NB core)
Ambient temp: room 28 degrees C .
Picture coming next.. this post is long enough..


----------



## sabinus

Contined, picture with the new results:

Average CPU temp was 53 degrees Celsius


----------



## Bkpizza

Hey guys, been reading this thread for a while, thought I should probably participate. Is it just that the rev3.0 boards are bad, or are people having trouble with all of them?

Because I can run my rev1.1 at 4800mhz 1.55V with no throttling and the VRM heatsink gets hot, but not so hot that I have to take my finger off it. Is it possible that Gigabyte
went cheap on the later rev's VRM?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bkpizza*
> 
> Hey guys, been reading this thread for a while, thought I should probably participate. Is it just that the rev3.0 boards are bad, or are people having trouble with all of them?
> 
> Because I can run my rev1.1 at 4800mhz 1.55V with no throttling and the VRM heatsink gets hot, but not so hot that I have to take my finger off it. Is it possible that Gigabyte
> went cheap on the later rev's VRM?


Maybe it's this UEFI crap and 64-bit bios thing? Let's wait for some bios update?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I hardly doubt a bios update is going to fix a hardware issue


----------



## runelotus

yep i agree with you OZ

think its a hardware problem , gigabytes just ships these boards with such a flimsy PCB





i just modified the board a bit in a desperate attempt to make the middle mosfet set clamp to the thermal pad
and because i'm too cheap to just waste a 15$ mosfet cooler










here is showing that i use the pull fan from my heatsink a a fan for my mosfet heatsink

Jeremy Clarkson once said " Your not a true petrol head unless you own an Alfa( Alfa Romeo ) It will be most beautiful cars *but 99% of the time your in shed fixing IT* "

Gigabyte boards are like Alfa's in that context Especially this one ,It is thing of beauty ,the design concept is good and the layout is a thing of beauty , *but 99 % of the time your are in A Shed Fixing something*









So Gigabyte , Dont just waste your board by using Flimsy PCB materials that can be bended by simple Heatsinks pushpin ,









To Hell with that New Glass Fibre(Cheap PCB) PCB and Bring Back the moisture magnet PCB ( atleast that is sturdy to enought accepts mods and BigAss Air Coolers )


----------



## Bkpizza

That really does suck. Just for interest sake is that a HR-09 and what model is it?


----------



## runelotus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bkpizza*
> 
> That really does suck. Just for interest sake is that a HR-09 and what model is it?


Yes this is a Thermalright HR-09 type 2


----------



## hajnalka

990FXA REv 3 Why throttling? Temperature mosfet or northbrige?
Throttling Voltage why?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> 990FXA REv 3 Why throttling? Temperature mosfet or northbrige?
> Throttling Voltage why?


Its the VRM temperatures. They need better cooling. I would suggest looking to see if the board is warped in the VRM area as well.


----------



## miklkit

Runelotus: That cooler looks like just the thing to cool those VRMs. I already have the Enzotech cooler and even with 3 120mm fans in that corner of the case of 56, 74, and 110cfm rating I can not take an FX8350 above 4.5 ghz because those VRMs are at their thermal limit. In normal use they sit right at 60C and start throttling at 65C.
I have also run into issues with the unstable V3 bios.

PS: How is that HR-09 bolted down?


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I have also run into issues with the unstable V3 bios.


Forgive me, but what's this V3 bios? For Rev 1.0 and 1.1 boards the latest bios is F9 and F10 is the latest beta. Rev 3 boards have bios FA, FB, and FC.

And going back to our earlier discussion of temp sensors, TMPIN2 is northbridge only and is not reading the VRM's on the other side of the socket. The northbridge does many things but regulating voltage to the CPU Core is not one of them.

That being said, what temp is reading 65C when it starts throttling? We've got 3 different sensors on the board plus socket and core temps.


----------



## miklkit

Oops. Am I getting them mixed up? TMPIN2 is the hottest one. The package is also quite hot. They are very close in temps. I thought they both could throttle because while stress testing it seems whichever one gets there first is the one to throttle.

I have the V3 FC bios, which for some reason stopped regulating the PWM fans a few days ago on auto. The only area of the board that is warped is at those VRMs.


----------



## FiatluX

I have a 0°C reading aka no reading at all on TMPIN2, is that normal with the 6 core Phenom II´s?


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Oops. Am I getting them mixed up? TMPIN2 is the hottest one. The package is also quite hot. They are very close in temps. I thought they both could throttle because while stress testing it seems whichever one gets there first is the one to throttle.
> 
> I have the V3 FC bios, which for some reason stopped regulating the PWM fans a few days ago on auto. The only area of the board that is warped is at those VRMs.


TMPIN0 is system/motherboard temp
TMPIN1 is CPU socket temp
TMPIN2 is northbridge

Package temp is CPU CORE TEMP, this is the most important and relevant temp.

TMPIN2 (northbridge) is known to run hot on these boards and its fine. Dont worry about it unless it says 95C or you smell smoke. Just forget TMPIN2.

Package temp should normally be ~10 degrees hotter than TMPIN1 (socket). Your mileage may vary on this though.

Furthermore, the FX package temps are not really accurate until you put a steady load on the processor.

And, just to clarify for this discussion, what are you defining as "throttling'? Throttling would be a reduction in clock speed (megahertz) as indicated by CPU-Z or similar. Beacuse the core voltage is going to bounce around and fluctuate no matter what you do, thats how these boards work, its normal, and voltage fluctuations are not what we are referring to here as throttling.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> I have a 0°C reading aka no reading at all on TMPIN2, is that normal with the 6 core Phenom II´s?


Not sure about that one.


----------



## runelotus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Runelotus: That cooler looks like just the thing to cool those VRMs. I already have the Enzotech cooler and even with 3 120mm fans in that corner of the case of 56, 74, and 110cfm rating I can not take an FX8350 above 4.5 ghz because those VRMs are at their thermal limit. In normal use they sit right at 60C and start throttling at 65C.
> I have also run into issues with the unstable V3 bios.
> 
> PS: How is that HR-09 bolted down?


I Still Use pushpins , Thinking of using , screws and nuts but the board warps like crazy even with pushpins


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> TMPIN0 is system/motherboard temp
> TMPIN1 is CPU socket temp
> TMPIN2 is northbridge
> 
> Package temp is CPU CORE TEMP, this is the most important and relevant temp.
> 
> TMPIN2 (northbridge) is known to run hot on these boards and its fine. Dont worry about it unless it says 95C or you smell smoke. Just forget TMPIN2.
> 
> Package temp should normally be ~10 degrees hotter than TMPIN1 (socket). Your mileage may vary on this though.
> 
> Furthermore, the FX package temps are not really accurate until you put a steady load on the processor.
> 
> And, just to clarify for this discussion, what are you defining as "throttling'? Throttling would be a reduction in clock speed (megahertz) as indicated by CPU-Z or similar. Beacuse the core voltage is going to bounce around and fluctuate no matter what you do, thats how these boards work, its normal, and voltage fluctuations are not what we are referring to here as throttling.


With the FX cpu, the tmpin2 temps reported are identical to what the package temps are reported. I find it very hard to believe my nb and cpu are running at the same exact temperature as each other all the time whether loaded or at idle. This has been discussed. On phenom cpu's it may very well be nb temps but with fx it is not nb or reading faulty.

As for the throttling. It is full blown throttling. The VRM's are getting so hot the board is cutting voltage AND multi. Example my cpu goes from 4.0ghz @ 1.36v to 1.2ghz @ .9v it is forcing a full load cpu into its lowest power state while still being at 100% load. Is that not throttling?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I just realized my post sounded kind of mean. Not my intention at all. I'm posting from my phone.just trying to explain what throttling we are experiencing


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> TMPIN0 is system/motherboard temp
> TMPIN1 is CPU socket temp
> TMPIN2 is northbridge
> 
> Package temp is CPU CORE TEMP, this is the most important and relevant temp.
> 
> TMPIN2 (northbridge) is known to run hot on these boards and its fine. Dont worry about it unless it says 95C or you smell smoke. Just forget TMPIN2.
> 
> Package temp should normally be ~10 degrees hotter than TMPIN1 (socket). Your mileage may vary on this though.
> 
> Furthermore, the FX package temps are not really accurate until you put a steady load on the processor.
> 
> And, just to clarify for this discussion, what are you defining as "throttling'? Throttling would be a reduction in clock speed (megahertz) as indicated by CPU-Z or similar. Beacuse the core voltage is going to bounce around and fluctuate no matter what you do, thats how these boards work, its normal, and voltage fluctuations are not what we are referring to here as throttling.
> 
> 
> 
> With the FX cpu, the tmpin2 temps reported are identical to what the package temps are reported. I find it very hard to believe my nb and cpu are running at the same exact temperature as each other all the time whether loaded or at idle. This has been discussed. On phenom cpu's it may very well be nb temps but with fx it is not nb or reading faulty.
> 
> As for the throttling. It is full blown throttling. The VRM's are getting so hot the board is cutting voltage AND multi. Example my cpu goes from 4.0ghz @ 1.36v to 1.2ghz @ .9v it is forcing a full load cpu into its lowest power state while still being at 100% load. Is that not throttling?
Click to expand...

and with my system, TMPIN2 is and tracks 10-+12c above my core temp (package temp) reads. It is identical at all times to what is the ' CPU temp' in other programs. At one point I removed my active cooling on my NB (and it warms considerably when I do this), and it has no effect on TMPIN2


----------



## miklkit

My system shows in OCCT that TMPIN2 and package are very close but different. They both spike at the same time but at slightly different times and amounts. TMPIN1 idles at a much higher temp but peaks lower and has a completely different pattern of peaks and valleys.

On another note I'm on a mission to cool down the CPU. The Arctic A30 just is not good enough. Step one was to cut out the perforated metal grill behind the case exhaust fan and to replace it with a chrome grill. This made a difference, with less noise and a bit lower temps.
Something changed for the worse though. Before this rig would start throttling at 65C, but now it throttles at 62C! And it is both TMPIN2 and the package that drop in unison, and it is both voltage and the multiplier that are dropping. All I can guess is that the airflow in the back of the case has been disrupted again.
The next step will be a Noctua NH-U12S when I can sweet talk my wife into letting me get it. For some reason she thinks landscaping and house painting are more important.


----------



## Bkpizza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runelotus*
> 
> Yes this is a Thermalright HR-09 type 2


Thanks, that's good to know. Maybe it will do an even better job than the enzotech and get some people to stop throttling.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Ozzy, I definitely know what you are considering throttling, that post was more for another person, sorry for confusion.

As for TMPIN2 being northbridge, I am going off of the following...



1. In almost every monitoring program, my TMPIN2 tracks 10-12C hotter than package temp under load.

2. My northbridge heatsink is physically warmer than all other heatsinks in my system. I noticed that on the first day. It was hard to keep a finger there for more than 5 seconds. That sparked my original interest in finding out why, and prompted me to put a fan over it before I even started reading about it.

3. My first ever google search on the subject yielded this result from a Gigabyte "Gold Helper" on the Gigabyte forums:

*http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=7075.0*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *absic*
> Hi there,
> 
> TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
> TMPIN1 = CPU Temp
> TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp


4. *This thread* that I found here on OCN led me to believe that pretty much all 990FX northbridges's run pretty hot.

But, now that I have started a more in depth search for truth on this subject, I am no wiser now than when I started. Searching here on OCN and across the internet, there is NO conclusive and consistent evidence as to what sensors are reading exactly what temps. Especially when apparently 2 identical boards read such drastically different temps from the onboard sensors. I see this repeated over and over all across the internet. Some of the boards reporting 0C as well! The onboard sensors should not be affected by the processor installed, but apparently that is the case (but only in _some_ cases), or a bug with the board.

So, thank you for forcing me to take a harder look at this. For now, I'm just gonna keep my mouth shut and stop handing out advice on a board that MANY people do not fully understand, not even Gigabyte themselves apparently, which is sad.

This is frustrating.

And I am indeed running an FX-8350, just for clarification.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Does this mobo really include a copy of diablo III


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Ozzy, I definitely know what you are considering throttling, that post was more for another person, sorry for confusion.
> 
> As for TMPIN2 being northbridge, I am going off of the following...
> 
> 
> 
> 1. In almost every monitoring program, my TMPIN2 tracks 10-12C hotter than package temp under load.
> 
> 2. My northbridge heatsink is physically warmer than all other heatsinks in my system. I noticed that on the first day. It was hard to keep a finger there for more than 5 seconds. That sparked my original interest in finding out why, and prompted me to put a fan over it before I even started reading about it.
> 
> 3. My first ever google search on the subject yielded this result from a Gigabyte "Gold Helper" on the Gigabyte forums:
> 
> *http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=7075.0*
> 4. *This thread* that I found here on OCN led me to believe that pretty much all 990FX northbridges's run pretty hot.
> 
> But, now that I have started a more in depth search for truth on this subject, I am no wiser now than when I started. Searching here on OCN and across the internet, there is NO conclusive and consistent evidence as to what sensors are reading exactly what temps. Especially when apparently 2 identical boards read such drastically different temps from the onboard sensors. I see this repeated over and over all across the internet. Some of the boards reporting 0C as well! The onboard sensors should not be affected by the processor installed, but apparently that is the case (but only in _some_ cases), or a bug with the board.
> 
> So, thank you for forcing me to take a harder look at this. For now, I'm just gonna keep my mouth shut and stop handing out advice on a board that MANY people do not fully understand, not even Gigabyte themselves apparently, which is sad.
> 
> This is frustrating.
> 
> And I am indeed running an FX-8350, just for clarification.


Interesting. Yours exhibits way different readings than mine does. I'm not saying your wrong, but my TMPIN2 always matches cpu package temps and tmpin1 is always a few degrees lower. This board is just crap lol. I blame it on the board.

http://s164.photobucket.com/user/ozzyrulez/media/temps_zps56d13003.jpg.html


----------



## Baskt_Case

Maybe its the difference in CPU cooling. Your single rad vs. my double.

However, now I'm on to chasing other bugs. My system crashed while Folding so I backed off my RAM, going back to stock 1866 and tried Prime, which also failed after about an hour.

So now I'm unstable at 4.6GHz (1.45v), 2.2 NB, 1866 RAM. No throttling though.

Starting to wish I'd bought an Asus. The last one I had was just a mid-range board and was rock solid stable. Easy to OC and even easier to diagnose and fix instability.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Alright, so I tried a few things.

First I tried no extra fans at all.

Then I tried a 70mm with a shroud directly over the VRM's.

Then I used both a 70mm over the VRM's and an 80mm over the Northbridge.

Lastly, I bolted an 80mm to the backside mount in my case that blows directly onto the socket/VRM area.

It was kinda stupid, but I did all of this while the PC was powered on and running Prime95 and HWMonitor. I wanted to get this thing good and hot and see what would happen when various cooling was added or taken away.

You know what happened???

Absolutely no discernable changes in reported temps using HWMon! NONE

Mainly I watched TMPNI2, but also kept eyes on all the others. In the end, this was useless. The sensors are whack. While running with no extra fans at all, both the NB and VRM heatsinks got so hot you could barely keep a finger on them. HWMon should have shown soaring temps, but nope.

As a last resort I took my 80mm, which moves a good amount of air and has a long cable on it, and just started randomly moving it around the case, holding it in different areas for a while to see if I could get a sizeable temperature drop. Nothing ever happened.

As I type this out, I have my 80mm mounted back over the NB but angled upwards so that the VRM's get some airflow as well. Prime95 is running and I can touch both heatsinks for as long as I want, they are good and warm but not scorching hot either. If I unplug that fan, within about 30 seconds they will both be extremely hot but I will see little to no change at all in HWMon.

I've tried other monitoring software as well, and everything always reports nearly the same as HWMon, so I just use that exclusively now. I like the layout the best.

I give up.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Sorry to spam the thread, but I've been working on my system alot.

So, I thought to myself, why not use some of Gigabytes own software to check these temps out. Ready for a mind bender???

Running Prime95, Gigabyte EasyTune6 says my CPU was running 59C. The only sensor showing 59C in HWMon was TMPIN2. And EasyTune6 was playing an audiblle alarm sound indicating an overheat condition, meanwhile HWMon is reporting 46C Package Temp. If ET6 is telling the truth, then I've cooked my processor a few times over, because I've seen 75C and higher on TMPIN2, on multiple occasions. And note that ET6 doesn't read my fans correctly. I know my fans are running, I'm looking at them right now, but ET6 says all buy my CPU fan is dead.


----------



## vonss

I still say the the HS on the NB is just crap. The only way to reduce the NB temp is changing the pink bubble gum, ahem, default TIM and use bolts and nuts to secure the HS. Of course, if you have the money/possibility to buy a aftermarket HS even better.

Well that confirms my personal opinion that ET6 is utterly worthless then same as AMD OverDrive.


----------



## Pudfark

@Ozz & Baskt Case,

Your experiences duplicate mine. Baskt, I really believe you are only a short time from being in my "condition"....Failing (from heat) VRMs, the results you are having now, mirror mine from three weeks ago. Believe me, they are only going to get worse, your voltage will fluctuate and your VRM's will get hotter and then your temp will go up. Three weeks ago, I was getting 59C now getting 65-67C and throttling.

Today, now, am ordering the newest Sabertooth board. I'll be on their forum here, in the future. I much appreciate everybodies efforts here, I just don't believe we can fix Gigabytes Hard Ware/Wear problem.

Best of Luck to ALL.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> @Ozz & Baskt Case,
> 
> Your experiences duplicate mine. Baskt, I really believe you are only a short time from being in my "condition"....Failing (from heat) VRMs, the results you are having now, mirror mine from three weeks ago. Believe me, they are only going to get worse, your voltage will fluctuate and your VRM's will get hotter and then your temp will go up. Three weeks ago, I was getting 59C now getting 65-67C and throttling.
> 
> Today, now, am ordering the newest Sabertooth board. I'll be on their forum here, in the future. I much appreciate everybodies efforts here, I just don't believe we can fix Gigabytes Hard Ware/Wear problem.
> 
> Best of Luck to ALL.


As an alternative offering, I've never had a hardware issue on my UD5... and they are a significant amount cheaper than ASUS Sabertooth or Crosshair boards... but I'm in kind of the same place as a lot of you, despite having no physical problems with the UD5, it's still a pain in the @$$ at times to dial in OC for the CPU and RAM, not too mention the superior RAM standards most ASUS boards have when compared to their Gigabyte counterparts.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yeah I can verify that ET6 displays CPU temps that coincide with TMPIN2. AMD Overdrive is the same and as I've said my TMPIN2 always matches Hardware Monitor's "Package" temps.

On a side note, I haven't heard back from Gigabyte VIP support since the "Users on Newegg say its fine" email. I do believe they have just decided to ignore me. I linked Ian Cutress to this thread and he had said he would contact them as well. I imagine he is a busy man so I don't want to bother him all to much. Really the best course of action is to steer as many people away from this disaster of a board as possible.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Hey guys I'm planning on getting this mobo and pairing it up with a 965BE. Since its my first AMD build and ill be OCing this beast will this board suffoce?


----------



## PCBuilder94

Hey guys I'm planning on getting the 990FX UD5 and pairing it up with a 965BE. Since its my first AMD build and ill be OCing this beast will this board suffoce?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> Hey guys I'm planning on getting the 990FX UD5 and pairing it up with a 965BE. Since its my first AMD build and ill be OCing this beast will this board suffoce?


For the FX series octo-cores it can be tricky dialing in voltages and whatnot for higher OCs, but for a 965BE you should have no problems at all acheiving some excellent OCs with a decent cooling setup (meaning a high quality heatsink and fan or a decent closed loop AIO cooler). If you're willing to spend an extra $25-$35 it may be worth your time to take a look at the FX-4300 or the FX-4350 as well.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Well I would put a better chip in there in about three months I will be doing custom water cooling..... I could go with the 6300 but I need to get my OC skills perfected.... I was going to go X79 but decided since I'm not a pro overclocker yet I don't want to fry my 3930K. I was going to build a benching rig but I'm putting it off until Christmas.... I also like the Old School non UEFI on Gigabyte that I have been using since they launched the original UD series. I cannot stand UEFI... so will a 6300 OC highe and better than a 965BE?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> Hey guys I'm planning on getting the 990FX UD5 and pairing it up with a 965BE. Since its my first AMD build and ill be OCing this beast will this board suffoce?


This might help...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1345017/i3-3220-vs-fx-4300-vs-amd-phenom-ii-x4-965-vs-amd-phenom-ii-x6-1045t-having-to-make-a-choice

Bear in mind that the thread is several months old and from before they launched the 4350s... and since the 4350s just launched, depending on how long you want to wait to see if the 4350 would be worth it... in the meantime, scratch what I said about the 4300, lol. After looking back they seem to be pretty much weaker than the 965BE across the board.


----------



## miklkit

Got up a while ago and am having a bad morning. The bios did not want to recognize the Noctua PWM fan then AMD ECC did not want to enable crossfire. I still think this UD3 is dying since it can not even control fans anymore. Finally got everything working, read the new posts here and did a quick stress test.
I use OCCT because it uses these nice graphs. They show that the package and TMPIN2 are very close but not the same. Also, note the throttling using the small data set. Here is another one using the medium data set. I am on air, not water.


----------



## Hellsrage

Hmm, I'm not using the same sensor monitoring program as you guys I'm using HWiNFO64.

What I find is that my CPU temp and Temp 3 are around the same temp but not exact they have a very small margin of difference in the decimals.


I'm going to test a game out and see if the temps scale together because my CPU is water cooled so the difference should be notable.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runelotus*
> 
> Yes this is a Thermalright HR-09 type 2


No one seems to have this in stock. I am on Xoxide's waiting list. They also have thermal pads that are out of stock.


----------



## Baskt_Case

My whole setup is trashed.

I reverted to 4.4GHz CPU, and stock RAM settings. All voltages on Auto. Prime95 just crashed.

I'm gonna let Memtest run and go take a nap. If the RAM passes, this MoBo is going up for sale.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Some cases such as mine for example already accommodate a fan on the backside pointing at the socket.
> 
> I suppose you could put heatsinks on the back if you used thermal pads but clearance would be a whole other issue.
> 
> Shouldn't have to go through all that just to get satisfactory performance from a board that was supposedly engineered and then marketed for overclocking purposes.
> 
> I know I'm having decent results right now but I've only had mine up and running for about 3 weeks. It was fresh from RMA when I got it so now reading through this thread I'm scared this thing is going to slowly cook itself to death. Here in a few days I'm going to redo my fan setup and take a closer look at my VRM heatsinks and see what I can do to stem off any problems before they start, hopefully. Already have contingency plans to just buy a new board altogether in a few months, if I make it that far.
> 
> Right now I've just got a spare 80mm rigged up over the NB...


Good point. when it comes to stand-off height and things lining up it's all about the case. For years I've been reading MOBO reviews of guys griping about standoffs not being
included with their new mainboard and I always thought, "yeah, what's up with that?" duh. there's actually a really good reason standoffs come with cases and not mobos.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Runelotus: That cooler looks like just the thing to cool those VRMs. I already have the Enzotech cooler and even with 3 120mm fans in that corner of the case of 56, 74, and 110cfm rating I can not take an FX8350 above 4.5 ghz because those VRMs are at their thermal limit. In normal use they sit right at 60C and start throttling at 65C.
> I have also run into issues with the unstable V3 bios.
> 
> PS: How is that HR-09 bolted down?


Put a 70 mm 2000+ RPM fan directly on top of VRM heat-sink and you'll Prime at 4.5 Ghz unless you have over 30 degrees ambient temperature.
Look for this baby..
*http://www.recom.nl/images/rc-7015bw_p.jpg*

It is very silent (2000 RPM / 26 CFM / below 30 db) compared to those AMD boxed Coolermasters that go up to 6250 RPM and allows me to Prime @ 4600 Mhz as I write!


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> ...............
> Package temp should normally be ~10 degrees hotter than TMPIN1 (socket). Your mileage may vary on this though.
> 
> .


I disagree with that. In full load package and socket temps should be very close. They go about 2-3 degrees apart from each other during Prime.
This is true as long as you keep LLC at "Regular"


----------



## miklkit

I'm not sure that would be a good idea. It's on air and there is only 50-55mm between 2 -120mm fans there. It might be possible to mount a small fan underneath those big fans pointing up at the 120mm exhaust fan on top. But all I really need is something tall enough to get into the wind tunnel created by those two big fans.


----------



## Hellsrage

Alright after some gaming I looked at my CPU temp and Temp 3 and they scaled the same with a .1-7 difference. For instance my CPU temp maxed at 50.4C while Temp 3 hit just 50C.


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Got up a while ago and am having a bad morning. The bios did not want to recognize the Noctua PWM fan then AMD ECC did not want to enable crossfire. I still think this UD3 is dying since it can not even control fans anymore. Finally got everything working, read the new posts here and did a quick stress test.
> I use OCCT because it uses these nice graphs. They show that the package and TMPIN2 are very close but not the same. Also, note the throttling using the small data set. Here is another one using the medium data set. I am on air, not water.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Your CPU Vcore goes too high.. lower it to max at 1.44 V to diminish throttling . I recommend you to lower it from AMD overdrive. It seems more granular than GB Bios.
I also have Noctua air cooler.

As for the 70 mm fan.. trust me, I have Noctua NH-D14 and I put the little cooler directly on top of the VRM HS between the Noctua's pipes and the MB's left margin. It fits in my case.
Moreover, in the TT Xaser case that I previously owned I fitted a 80 mm slim fan that covered the area even better.

Ultimately I plan to replace my 120 mm back exhaust fan with a slim 120x15 mm just to allow me to put back the old Glacialtech 80mm 2700 RPM fan that seemed to cool better than the 70 mm.


----------



## cainy1991

I dont know what all the hype is over these boards.. I had two UD3s and still use a D3 to use as a backup.
I don't know about the higher end models they might be great, but changing from a UD3 to a asrock extreme 4 has been nothing short of a a godsend

Both the UD3s had overheating issues one fried on 1.35 cpu voltage
and the replacement was just as hot and didn't give me much room for an over clock... so I sold it to an unsuspecting victim before it died lol

And I got the D3 when the first UD3 died and I had no mobo while the RMA was happening, never really tried overclocking much on it, due to its power phase... I dont think many people would try it on such a low end board anyway so no beefs with the D3 it did its purpose... low end no frills board...

But what I had heard about the UD3 was it was a "spectacular budget board for overclocking" that I cannot vouch for in any way.


----------



## Bkpizza

Well just to make it a bit weirder, under load if my package temp is 60c, my cpu socket temp is only 45c, but my tempin2 hits 72c. So is tempin 2 now cpu socket?? With my old Phenom 955 both "CPU" temps pretty much lined up.


----------



## PCBuilder94

Does the ud5 come with diablo iii? Anyine order ut recently


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bkpizza*
> 
> Well just to make it a bit weirder, under load if my package temp is 60c, my cpu socket temp is only 45c, but my tempin2 hits 72c. So is tempin 2 now cpu socket?? With my old Phenom 955 both "CPU" temps pretty much lined up.


It seems that you've got serious throttling there, that's why cpu socket temp is only 45. Monitor with AMD OD --> CPU Status during Burn and see what I'm talking about. Look at the frequency / Multi and see how often it drops!
This happens because you've set VCore too high .. I see 1.488 max there.. it's too much even for 4600 Mhz. Drop it to ~1.45V max and set LLC to "Regular" and HPC to "Enabled".
Test again!


----------



## Bkpizza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> It seems that you've got serious throttling there, that's why cpu socket temp is only 45. Monitor with AMD OD --> CPU Status during Burn and see what I'm talking about. Look at the frequency / Multi and see how often it drops!
> This happens because you've set VCore too high .. I see 1.488 max there.. it's too much even for 4600 Mhz. Drop it to ~1.45V max and set LLC to "Regular" and HPC to "Enabled".
> Test again!


Ok thanks heaps, gave it a crack, watched clocks with CPU-Z since I already had it and it stayed locked on 4633mhz the whole time. I'm pretty sure its ok because it was still doing 90ish GFLOPS in IBT but anything I missed is going to help.
I'm working on lowering voltage, I've got 1.4375 set in bios and LLC on regular already and that's what gives me 1.488 under load.
Is HPC a Rev 3.0 thing? Mine is Rev 1.1 and has no HPC, its got APM which is off, when I turn it on then I get throttling.


----------



## miklkit

Baskt_Case: What happened? You seemed happy a few days ago.

Sabinus: This thing ran happily @ 4.5ghz with stock voltage until i came here and started stress testing and getting errors. I bumped the voltage up and got an error, then bumped it again and now no errors while running OCCT with the large and medium data sets. The small data set has it hitting the 65C redline in about a minute, but otherwise the temps are now in the 50-55C range max. Right now it is idling at 17C which is below ambient. So, should I be concerned about those errors while stress testing?

I deleted AMD ECC because it conflicts with other programs, and turns off Xfire too. All changes are made in the bios, such as it is. It still cannot run the PWM fans properly.

Your case must be much larger than mine because I measured and the D14 will not fit, nor will another fan. Well maybe a 40mm fan will. That is why I am looking at the U12S. It will fit and maybe leave enough room for a little fan over the VRMs.


----------



## vonss

¿Is there any downside is running the GPU on the PCIE16X_2 slot?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Baskt_Case: What happened? You seemed happy a few days ago.
> 
> Sabinus: This thing ran happily @ 4.5ghz with stock voltage until i came here and started stress testing and getting errors. I bumped the voltage up and got an error, then bumped it again and now no errors while running OCCT with the large and medium data sets. The small data set has it hitting the 65C redline in about a minute, but otherwise the temps are now in the 50-55C range max. Right now it is idling at 17C which is below ambient. So, should I be concerned about those errors while stress testing?
> 
> I deleted AMD ECC because it conflicts with other programs, and turns off Xfire too. All changes are made in the bios, such as it is. It still cannot run the PWM fans properly.
> 
> Your case must be much larger than mine because I measured and the D14 will not fit, nor will another fan. Well maybe a 40mm fan will. That is why I am looking at the U12S. It will fit and maybe leave enough room for a little fan over the VRMs.


Most time the errors are caused by not enough voltage or memory timings. If bumping the voltage eliminated them then they are nothing to worry about. How long are you running OCCT to determine stability? I generally do at least 8 hours of medium to say mine is stable. Some guys only do an hour or two, however I've had mine error out just after 2 hours but have never seen an error past 8.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> ¿Is there any downside is running the GPU on the PCIE16X_2 slot?


The downside would be reduced bandwidth for the GPU, your frame rates might suffer some. Best way to tell would be run it the 1st slot and do 3dmark or test a game, take note to your FPS. Then move it to the 2nd slot and do the same.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Baskt_Case: What happened? You seemed happy a few days ago.


Well, this board has presented it's own unique set of problems to me. At first yea, things were great, but I built this rig mainly for folding and it started crashing while Folding. It was previously stable while Folding for days on end, then just started crapping out at random.

So I'm working on that right now. I've started my OC from scratch and working my way through getting IBT and OCCT stable, then I will try folding again.

Luckily, through all of this, I have not experienced throttling, just general instability.

So far I am IBT Max stable, and 7 hours of OCCT at 4.6GHz @ 1.45v CPU @ 1.22v CPU NB @ 2.505v CPU PLL

Plenty of time to mess with all this, I'm off work on medical leave after I took a horrible laceration to my hand and nearly lost a finger. Couple broken bones too!


----------



## miklkit

I only have patience for a one hour test. In fact I just did one.
I went ahead and dropped the volts one click to +0.25 and ran a couple of OCCT tests. The temps dropped some more which is always good, but in the small data set test it started throttling at only 59C this time. This is a worrisome trend. At first it would throttle at 65C, then 62C, and now 59C.








Then I ran a large data set run for 1 hour and got no errors and it ran at 50C. Man I hope this thing holds together a while longer.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Man, that sucks. I know the feeling. I havent been throttling, just crashing. First at 4.6, then at 4.5, all the way down to 4.0GHz. Downard spiral of failure.

When it gets bad enough, I just set everything back to stock and start from scratch. I also keep a notebook of last known good settings. I'd lose my mind trying to overclock without my notebook.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Very Interesting Update, ...for 6-core (FX6000 series) owners....

Since I'm one of a short list of 6core owners on this thread I thought you might find my recent results of interest, (by way of contrast) not to mention of actual USE to any 6core owners dropping by.

While I'm still waiting for my Coolmaster CPU cooler to arrive I decided it might be good to push a little further on NOW and 1.) get some idea how far I'm going to be able to go, and 2.) get a little preview of the temps when I do, partly in hopes of NOT having to pull the board out again which installing the in-the-mail cpu cooler requires.
Last I reported I was at X17.50 = 3.5Ghz on the CPU and 1866 on the ram. since then I'd already punched up the RAM to 1959, all good. So here's what I did today:
in order:
Voltages:
V-CORE: +.025
CPU NB VID +.025
NB: +0.02 (net 1.12v)
LLC, either "med" or I left it on AUTO, not sure (working from notes I'm not at home)
Freq's:
CPU HOST CLOCK to 210 MHZ
CPU FREQ up one tick to X18:00 = 3.6Ghz
REBOOT. POST OK, CPU was showing me only 3.53 (rougly) only a tiny lift.
Then I noticed the Vcore resultant voltage was only 0.958 and I knew I wanted more like, btwn 1.2-1.3.
So back to v-core voltage, made it +0.250 (up from the +.025) which by my math should have only made it 1.21v net.
REBOOT. Post-still-good!
WHAM: 3.78Ghz!! (mutilplier set to 3.6) w'hoo! but wait, what's the temp?
V-core temp showng, 65c just idling in BIOS! My underanding is I wanna stay under 60 if at all possible!
and V-CORE net voltage now fluct'ng btwn 1.54 and 1.6 also well over my target 1.3.
I hauled donkey quickly back to the VCORE voltage and cut the tweak by half to +0.125.
REBOOT, good post.
At first I was confused, CPU speed still showed as 3.78Ghz, but the V-CORE-TEMP was down to mid 40's! Sweet!
AND the V-CORE net voltage was now btwn-1.44 and 1.53 still a bit high but no longer scary-high.

Questions:
1.) I assume, based on these results the next move is to pull the V-CORE voltage back one tick at a time untill I see the 3.78Ghz speed flinch. The logic being you don't want to give the V-CORE any more power than whatever's just enough to support the 3.78. and see how low the temp drops in the process. correct?
2.) I assume also that a vcore temp of mid 40s AT IDLE is not Sweet-Home-Alabama and under any actual load could shoot up and past 60c with-in, well, don't blink, correct? soooo if I can get the vcore temp lower and still maitain the 3.78Ghz thats a good plan. Correct?
3.) Currently the multiplier is set to a limit of 3.6 but the current resultant speed is 3.78, assuming I wanted a nice round 3.8, is the following the best attack:
pull the Vcore voltage back untill the speed dips, then put it back to whatever it was last supported the 3.78, and kick the multiplier/freq up to 3.8

Here's an interesting side note, I re-assessed the Windows Experience after I got the temp down, but still at 3,78 and 1933/(59) on the RAM and the VIDEO SCORES had actually DROPPED from 7.1 to 7.0 (yet the CPU score was unchanged) It seemed like the new OC was now crowding the VIDEO for resources. True?

Soon I'm going to fill-in this and all my other builds. I know you kinda need to know PS's and all that other stuff to answer some of my questions.
Thanks Guys!


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> It seems that you've got serious throttling there, that's why cpu socket temp is only 45. Monitor with AMD OD --> CPU Status during Burn and see what I'm talking about. Look at the frequency / Multi and see how often it drops!
> This happens because you've set VCore too high .. I see 1.488 max there.. it's too much even for 4600 Mhz. Drop it to ~1.45V max and set LLC to "Regular" and HPC to "Enabled".
> Test again!


That's another question I had. LLC there are 5 ticks not counting "AUTO". The lowest being either NORMAL or REGULAR, the highest being "Extreme".
What's the board concensus on that one anyway? "Regular" ? W-T-Heck's the difference anyway between say NORMAL and MEDIUM? Does anybody know?

Thanks guys!


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> That's another question I had. LLC there are 5 ticks not counting "AUTO". The lowest being either NORMAL or REGULAR, the highest being "Extreme".
> What's the board concensus on that one anyway? "Regular" ? W-T-Heck's the difference anyway between say NORMAL and MEDIUM? Does anybody know? !


Check out this *post I found on another forum*. His Gigabyte board has 10 levels of LLC, and he did a test with a fixed BIOS vCore setting, and then booted using each LLC setting and logged the idle and load results.

One of of us needs to do this on our boards to get a definitive answer.

I've been using Auto since day one.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Well, this board has presented it's own unique set of problems to me. At first yea, things were great, but I built this rig mainly for folding and it started crashing while Folding. It was previously stable while Folding for days on end, then just started crapping out at random.
> 
> So I'm working on that right now. I've started my OC from scratch and working my way through getting IBT and OCCT stable, then I will try folding again.
> 
> Luckily, through all of this, I have not experienced throttling, just general instability.
> 
> So far I am IBT Max stable, and 7 hours of OCCT at 4.6GHz @ 1.45v CPU @ 1.22v CPU NB @ 2.505v CPU PLL
> 
> Plenty of time to mess with all this, I'm off work on medical leave after I took a horrible laceration to my hand and nearly lost a finger. Couple broken bones too!


The print-out I'm working from says the CPU PLL is not really a factor and reccomends leaving it alone. which I did.

for the record, since the BIOS update still not a single POST-CHOKE, and in the last OC tweaks, no instability or throttling, course I only left it at 65 for about a minute and there has been NO load-testing yet.

This is what, (the guide) I'm (mainly) using:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming
I originally found it at Tweaktown forums but I just now discovered we had it here first. (?)

Props to: Sin0822


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Check out this *post I found on another forum*. His Gigabyte board has 10 levels of LLC, and he did a test with a fixed BIOS vCore setting, and then booted using each LLC setting and logged the idle and load results.
> 
> One of of us needs to do this on our boards to get a definitive answer.
> 
> I've been using Auto since day one.


I guessing that's either a UD7, possibly a 5 and-or possibly an INTEL CS?
hmmmm. I know! maybe I should look at the link!








done.
yeah Ok it's an Intel. I have Z68 myself (not UD7) mines a 3 and I've had NO LUCK getting it OC AT ALL. It's pending a BIOS UPDATE. Still on out-the-box. hopefully that helps. Sure as heck did with the 990FXA.


----------



## Baskt_Case

I'll tell ya what, the only reason I bumped CPU PLL was because I failed OCCT after 1 hour. With a CPU PLL bump it ran for 7 hours. Thats all I know.

Thanks for linking that guide! I have not seen that one yet. Gonna grab a beer and give that a read.

And yea, that guys board is Intel. I just posted that for insight. Like I said, we need to test our boards like he did.


----------



## PCBuilder94

does the ud5 990fx include dialblo iii


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Very Interesting Update, ...for 6-core (FX6000 series) owners....
> 
> Since I'm one of a short list of 6core owners on this thread I thought you might find my recent results of interest, (by way of contrast) not to mention of actual USE to any 6core owners dropping by.
> 
> While I'm still waiting for my Coolmaster CPU cooler to arrive I decided it might be good to push a little further on NOW and 1.) get some idea how far I'm going to be able to go, and 2.) get a little preview of the temps when I do, partly in hopes of NOT having to pull the board out again which installing the in-the-mail cpu cooler requires.
> Last I reported I was at X17.50 = 3.5Ghz on the CPU and 1866 on the ram. since then I'd already punched up the RAM to 1959, all good. So here's what I did today:
> in order:
> Voltages:
> V-CORE: +.025
> CPU NB VID +.025
> NB: +0.02 (net 1.12v)
> LLC, either "med" or I left it on AUTO, not sure (working from notes I'm not at home)
> Freq's:
> CPU HOST CLOCK to 210 MHZ
> CPU FREQ up one tick to X18:00 = 3.6Ghz
> REBOOT. POST OK, CPU was showing me only 3.53 (rougly) only a tiny lift.
> Then I noticed the Vcore resultant voltage was only 0.958 and I knew I wanted more like, btwn 1.2-1.3.
> So back to v-core voltage, made it +0.250 (up from the +.025) which by my math should have only made it 1.21v net.
> REBOOT. Post-still-good!
> WHAM: 3.78Ghz!! (mutilplier set to 3.6) w'hoo! but wait, what's the temp?
> V-core temp showng, 65c just idling in BIOS! My underanding is I wanna stay under 60 if at all possible!
> and V-CORE net voltage now fluct'ng btwn 1.54 and 1.6 also well over my target 1.3.
> I hauled donkey quickly back to the VCORE voltage and cut the tweak by half to +0.125.
> REBOOT, good post.
> At first I was confused, CPU speed still showed as 3.78Ghz, but the V-CORE-TEMP was down to mid 40's! Sweet!
> AND the V-CORE net voltage was now btwn-1.44 and 1.53 still a bit high but no longer scary-high.
> 
> Questions:
> 1.) I assume, based on these results the next move is to pull the V-CORE voltage back one tick at a time untill I see the 3.78Ghz speed flinch. The logic being you don't want to give the V-CORE any more power than whatever's just enough to support the 3.78. and see how low the temp drops in the process. correct?
> 2.) I assume also that a vcore temp of mid 40s AT IDLE is not Sweet-Home-Alabama and under any actual load could shoot up and past 60c with-in, well, don't blink, correct? soooo if I can get the vcore temp lower and still maitain the 3.78Ghz thats a good plan. Correct?
> 3.) Currently the multiplier is set to a limit of 3.6 but the current resultant speed is 3.78, assuming I wanted a nice round 3.8, is the following the best attack:
> pull the Vcore voltage back untill the speed dips, then put it back to whatever it was last supported the 3.78, and kick the multiplier/freq up to 3.8
> 
> Here's an interesting side note, I re-assessed the Windows Experience after I got the temp down, but still at 3,78 and 1933/(59) on the RAM and the VIDEO SCORES had actually DROPPED from 7.1 to 7.0 (yet the CPU score was unchanged) It seemed like the new OC was now crowding the VIDEO for resources. True?
> 
> Soon I'm going to fill-in this and all my other builds. I know you kinda need to know PS's and all that other stuff to answer some of my questions.
> Thanks Guys!


At that low of a clock speed I honestly think you shouldn't be anywhere near 1.5v on the vcore. I would by trying lower 1.4v's honestly.

A lower vcore will yield lower temps but also remember that higher clocks yield higher temps so they can compound each other. 40C idle in the BIOS is not going to be what it is in Windows, especially if you have C&Q enabled. However under a load it is possible that it will go above 60C just because it is that high in the BIOS.

The frequency being 3.78 sounds to me that either you have the multi 1 tick higher than you think or you have a slight FSB overclock going as well. What is CPUZ showing?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> I'll tell ya what, the only reason I bumped CPU PLL was because I failed OCCT after 1 hour. With a CPU PLL bump it ran for 7 hours. Thats all I know.
> 
> Thanks for linking that guide! I have not seen that one yet. Gonna grab a beer and give that a read.
> 
> And yea, that guys board is Intel. I just posted that for insight. Like I said, we need to test our boards like he did.


I have tried, Regular, Medium, and High. I have not noticed any difference in them honestly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCBuilder94*
> 
> does the ud5 990fx include dialblo iii


I don't believe so...


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bkpizza*
> 
> Ok thanks heaps, gave it a crack, watched clocks with CPU-Z since I already had it and it stayed locked on 4633mhz the whole time. I'm pretty sure its ok because it was *still doing 90ish GFLOPS in IBT...*


Hey, I noticed that in an earlier post of yours as well. I'm testing 4.7GHz on an 8350 right now and the best I can muster is 45 GFLOPS. Whats up with that.

Is your version of IBT using AVX? I notice that your IBT looks a little different than mine. Although the version number is the same, 2.54.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> I'll tell ya what, the only reason I bumped CPU PLL was because I failed OCCT after 1 hour. With a CPU PLL bump it ran for 7 hours. Thats all I know.
> 
> Thanks for linking that guide! I have not seen that one yet. Gonna grab a beer and give that a read.
> 
> And yea, that guys board is Intel. I just posted that for insight. Like I said, we need to test our boards like he did.


no I absolutely agree we need someone to do that.
it was a good read.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> At that low of a clock speed I honestly think you shouldn't be anywhere near 1.5v on the vcore. I would by trying lower 1.4v's honestly.
> 
> A lower vcore will yield lower temps but also remember that higher clocks yield higher temps so they can compound each other. 40C idle in the BIOS is not going to be what it is in Windows, especially if you have C&Q enabled. However under a load it is possible that it will go above 60C just because it is that high in the BIOS.
> 
> The frequency being 3.78 sounds to me that either you have the multi 1 tick higher than you think or you have a slight FSB overclock going as well. What is CPUZ showing?
> I have tried, Regular, Medium, and High. I have not noticed any difference in them honestly.
> I don't believe so...


Thanks Oz,
Pretty much what I thought, I'm going to pull the VCORE Voltage back until I see the 3.78 dip or a post-fail.
AND I'm confident you're right about the 40c idle in bios not being golden. I thought so too. It's still good to hear someone else say it.

AS FOR The FSB OC? I only tweaked what I mentioned. Before that I'd only done XMP profile 1, memory manual multiplier, and the CPU freq-multiplier, (which I'm sure is at 18.00)
Like I said I _*was*_ at 3.53 and the *ONLY* THING I changed was Vcore voltage from +.025 to +.250 and BAM~! 3.78, which, IMO is a pretty decent (high) clock speed for a PROC with stock speed of only 3.3, I'll be pleased as all get out, (this talking like we're all FIVE is hard!), to end up with a nice stable 3.8, (given the inherent design weaknesses of this board)

thank you and good nite!


----------



## Pudfark

This is for OZZ and everybody else having VRM overheating/warped Mobo's problems.
I could be wrong, though I don't believe I am. All you have to do...go to newegg and look at the pictures of the UD3, UD5 mobo's and look for the photo that shows the back of the board.
Look specifically on the board at the location of where the backside of the VRM's would be.....you will see nothing there, which is the location where the board warps from heat.

Now, at the newegg, look at a sabertooth board backside where the VRM's would be located and you will see a "support" that prevents the board from warping and the VRM's from losing contact with their heatsink.

That gentlemen...I believe is most of the problem. I sincerely hope this helps. My new Sabertooth will arrive on Tuesday. I wish you all well.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> This is for OZZ and everybody else having VRM overheating/warped Mobo's problems.
> I could be wrong, though I don't believe I am. All you have to do...go to newegg and look at the pictures of the UD3, UD5 mobo's and look for the photo that shows the back of the board.
> Look specifically on the board at the location of where the backside of the VRM's would be.....you will see nothing there, which is the location where the board warps from heat.
> 
> Now, at the newegg, look at a sabertooth board backside where the VRM's would be located and you will see a "support" that prevents the board from warping and the VRM's from losing contact with their heatsink.
> 
> That gentlemen...I believe is most of the problem. I sincerely hope this helps. My new Sabertooth will arrive on Tuesday. I wish you all well.


Well we knew the UD3 has warping issues and from what others have done "fixing" the warping and making the heat sink connect but since the heat sink sucks so much it makes no difference. This was just a dumb decision by Gigabyte, they tried to save a dollar and screwed the whole thing over in return.


----------



## MrStick89

Anyone succesfully RMA their ud3? Even with a big fan blowing on the vrms I cannot get it to stop throttling at 4.8ghz. beyond pissed. Bought an h220 and basically have the same clocks with my 212+ because of this garbage mobo. I have owned this board for ~2months now.


----------



## miklkit

True, the UD3 is a bean counter's special and we are paying the price.

I went there and looked, and the most expensive Asus boards do indeed have something there, and I am sure Pudfark will tell us more about it in a few days. I also saw some Asrock boards with huge heat sinks. But what caught my eye was one MSI board with THREE bolts holding the heat sink down. One on each end and one in the middle. I'm no MSI fan but............


----------



## runelotus

I May not have the UD3 but the older weaker D3 model bought with my FX6100 , lokking to buy the GEn3. R.2.0 Sabertooth as Soon As it hit store's may be bundle with A FX8350 chip

Because i had it with this series of board from the Warping to trottling it is endless, I guess I should have bought That MSi 990FX-GD80 and crossed my fingers


----------



## Hellsrage

Honestly I think the board warps because they used plastic with a spring to hold them on but the springs don't apply any real force (the heat sink moves if you tap it), in other words the idiots should have used real mounting hardware not this crap plastic solution.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *runelotus*
> 
> I May not have the UD3 but the older weaker D3 model bought with my FX6100 , lokking to buy the GEn3. R.2.0 Sabertooth as Soon As it hit store's may be bundle with A FX8350 chip
> 
> Because i had it with this series of board from the Warping to trottling it is endless, I guess I should have bought That MSi 990FX-GD80 and crossed my fingers


Yeah it seems this owners thread has turned into a buyers remorse thread, well for those of us who are in this rather annoying predicament.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Has anyone tried using thermal epoxy? You know, the permanent stuff? Seems like with a decent heatsink, this would achieve a much better thermal transfer across all the mosfets.

My board will be out of warranty soon and I wouldn't mind giving it a shot. Just put a tiny dot on each mosfet and let it set. I even thought about taking my heatsink to the shop at work and cutting additional fins into it to increase the surface area.

Wouldn't mind attaching a permanent thermal probe to the heatsink either, so I could get some solid numbers to work with. Even if it didnt give true mosfet temperature, at least it would give steady baseline numbers that I could use to compare effectiveness of cooling solutions.


----------



## IOSEFINI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> This is for OZZ and everybody else having VRM overheating/warped Mobo's problems.
> I could be wrong, though I don't believe I am. All you have to do...go to newegg and look at the pictures of the UD3, UD5 mobo's and look for the photo that shows the back of the board.
> Look specifically on the board at the location of where the backside of the VRM's would be.....you will see nothing there, which is the location where the board warps from heat.
> 
> Now, at the newegg, look at a sabertooth board backside where the VRM's would be located and you will see a "support" that prevents the board from warping and the VRM's from losing contact with their heatsink.
> 
> That gentlemen...I believe is most of the problem. I sincerely hope this helps. My new Sabertooth will arrive on Tuesday. I wish you all well.


There are some mosfet/driver IC under that "support" on the Sabertooth..... kind of a small heatsink for them.

wow...Guys, it looks like the new UD3 is ... no comment.
I have the UD7, no problems at all with it, but still, in my opinion, its behind my CHV and Sabertooth


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Has anyone tried using thermal epoxy? You know, the permanent stuff? Seems like with a decent heatsink, this would achieve a much better thermal transfer across all the mosfets.
> 
> My board will be out of warranty soon and I wouldn't mind giving it a shot. Just put a tiny dot on each mosfet and let it set. I even thought about taking my heatsink to the shop at work and cutting additional fins into it to increase the surface area.
> 
> Wouldn't mind attaching a permanent thermal probe to the heatsink either, so I could get some solid numbers to work with. Even if it didnt give true mosfet temperature, at least it would give steady baseline numbers that I could use to compare effectiveness of cooling solutions.


The only catch there, obviously, if the thermal epoxy doesn't perform as-well-as-or-better-than the artic-sliver (which you would then be using zero of) you'd be done. No backtracking from epoxy.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I've thought about using the epoxy however to do that, at least in my case with the warping I have, I would have to do several individual heat sinks. I've solved my throttling, at least at 4.5ghz. I honestly do not believe I'll be able push it very much higher. Maybe 4.6ghz but I wouldn't be surprised if it started to throttle there. This copper heatsink gets incredibly hot under a load. I was pretty shocked when I touched it. Its taking that little AMD fan turning 5000+ RPM to stop the throttling. The heatsink is doing its job well, these things are just generating a ridiculous amount of heat.


----------



## Bkpizza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Hey, I noticed that in an earlier post of yours as well. I'm testing 4.7GHz on an 8350 right now and the best I can muster is 45 GFLOPS. Whats up with that.
> 
> Is your version of IBT using AVX? I notice that your IBT looks a little different than mine. Although the version number is the same, 2.54.


Yep its an AVX version. Here it is....

IBT AVX.zip 4327k .zip file


----------



## FiatluX

Starting off slowly, so far so good!


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bkpizza*
> 
> Yep its an AVX version. Here it is....
> 
> IBT AVX.zip 4327k .zip file


Wow, ok. The only reason it looked different in your screenshot is because your on Win8.

On my Win7, that AVX IBT looks identical to what I already had. I mean identical in every way, even the "About" text is the same, but sure enough, I let it run a pass on Standard and it finished in 11 seconds and ~88 GFLOPS.

My non-AVX version takes about 20 seconds and comes in at 44 GFLOPS.

Thanks alot!


----------



## Bkpizza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Wow, ok. The only reason it looked different in your screenshot is because your on Win8.
> 
> On my Win7, that AVX IBT looks identical to what I already had. I mean identical in every way, even the "About" text is the same, but sure enough, I let it run a pass on Standard and it finished in 11 seconds and ~88 GFLOPS.
> 
> My non-AVX version takes about 20 seconds and comes in at 44 GFLOPS.
> 
> Thanks alot!


No worries man, shows how nice it would be if everything was coded in AVX. By the way what settings do you use for 4.6ghz?


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bkpizza*
> 
> By the way what settings do you use for 4.6ghz?


Using multiplier only, LLC to Auto.

CPU Voltage +.100 = 1.48v observed in HWMonitor @ 100% load

CPU NB VID +.025 = 1.22v effective according to BIOS

CPU PLL Voltage increase to 2.505 (2.500 stock)


----------



## Bkpizza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> Using multiplier only, LLC to Auto.
> 
> CPU Voltage +.100 = 1.48v observed in HWMonitor @ 100% load
> 
> CPU NB VID +.025 = 1.22v effective according to BIOS
> 
> CPU PLL Voltage increase to 2.505 (2.500 stock)


Ok thanks, mine shows 1.48 under load as well, so maybe its not so strange.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Sadly though, 4.7GHz is not stable at those settings. Tried +.125 and still wasn't stable so I backed off. Was showing 1.52v under load. I wasn't willing to play on the 1.55v line.


----------



## miklkit

What does the bclk multiplier do? Is there another way to do what it does?
I ask because months ago I let Gigabyte Easy Tune with Easy Boost do its thing and it decided it liked 4.6ghz, and it got there by changing the cpu and bclk multipliers only. It went from 20/21 to 23/23. I tried it and it ran fine, but only one of my games ran anymore. That was probably because I had not turned off all of the energy saving stuff yet. Anyway, my goal has always been a cool 4.6ghz.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

RESULTS (Good news/Bad News)
A lotta messin a roun today, lots of oppertunity for this thing to gag. The GOOD NEWS is, still at ZERO on the post-fail since BIOS update, (despite at least one INTENTIONAL attempt to make it post fail) And other than that one brief trip up to 65C when I'd put the VCORE voltage at +0.250 the All temps even under some load testing have been in the 41C or LESS range. And no instability, spontainious re-boots or issues getting in to the BIOS. That's the good news. THE BAD NEWS is SOME the results of todays testing has been not exactly consistant wth common logic. (EG: boost a multiplier, speed goes down)
Here's wher I left off: VCORE voltage at +0.125, cpu clk ratio at 18.00 (=3.60Ghz), Net VCore 1.54-1.6+v and temp centering around 39C in BIOS IDLE, actual Clock speed 3.78.

QUICK FOOTNOTE UP TOP. I use "VCORE" voltage (net) and "CPU" voltage (net) interchangably.

Change 1: Cut VCORE v by half to 0.075, no effect on ClockSpeed, remain 3.78, Net vcv down to 1.488 and temp 37C.
Change 2: Cut VCORE v to +0.050v, CS still showing 3.78 effective. net VCV down to 1.34 - 1.460, temp 32C
Change 3: Cut VCORE v to *+0.025v Still 3.78 effective, net VCV 1.34-1.44*, temp eged up 34C ( I write it off to time running)
Change 4: Cut VCORE v to 0.000v STILL SHOWING effective CS of 3.78, this is the first big inconsistancy. The last thing I did yesterday to get it UP to 3.78 was the VCORE v treak from +0.025 to +0.250, now I've dropped it all the way back to LOWER than it was and it's still showing 3.78Ghz effective. Temp now 30C and net CPU power is at 1.29 - 1.41v.
So temp and NET CPU voltages are both responding a logical manner, the CPU clock speed is not.
Change 5: CPU clock ration up to 18.5 (=3.88 antisipated) actually half expecting post-choke here, nope, post good! Reslutant CS now 3.70 (VCORE v still at +0.000)
Change 6: VCORE v up to +0.050 No change 3.70 (multiplier still set to 3.88)
Change 7: NB freq up one tick to 2200Mhz, no apparent effect. Put it back to Auto, (2000Mhz)
Change 8: took CPU multiplier back down to 18.00 (3.60) noticed VCV at -0.050v not sure if I did that by mistake or some how it something else auto-tweaked it. Sorry. ANWAY kicked it back up to 0.000 -restart- aaaaand BACK to 3.78Ghz CS.
TEMP 29-30C net V 1.32 - 1.42 Freq X18.00 (supposed limit 3.60)
Boot into windows.
CPU-Z advs: Core Speed 1470 / Mult X7.0 (7-19.5)
Core Voltage 0.936, 0=32c, 1=31c and 2=10c

Leaving CPU-Z open, time for some *load testing*. (In the form of FLV to AVI conversions)
1st conversion ran about 4 or 5 minutes. Temps peaked out as follows: 0= n/c(32) 1= 39-40c and 2= 26-27c
Watched some vids for a bit, 5-6 minutes. Temps 0 = 32, 1= 35/34 and 2= sub 20c
MORE conversions, about 10-15 minutes worth. Temps peaked at: 0=32c 1= 41c and 2 = 30c
About midway through this test I dailed the Case Fan speed dial all the way back. (virtually silent) to see, well you know.
as you can see, no big effect on the temps. Granted these are pretty short load tests, But I'm keeping in mind when I had the VCORE v at +0.250 the CPU temp shot up to 65c almost instantly. GETTING THE FEELING there's a very fine line here between just fine at 41C and OVER the (60c) LINE.
So now I
Change 9: _*kick the VCORE V up to +0.025*_, (restart) in BIOS IDLE now, temps CPU=32c and sys=32c _*net CPU v 1.28-1.39v*_ (see bold above)
CRanked the case fan dial back to max, over the course of a bout 3 minutes pulled the SYS temp down 1C CPU temp n/c.
Still at 3.78 effective, mem is 1959
Done for the day. Shutdown.
Hopefully this was of use(or at least some MEANING) to someone.

So wadda y'all think? ADDING a good after mkt CPU cooler should I be able to get, a stable 4.0Ghz out of my 6100, long-term, without damage or throttling?

Thanks guys.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

I'm not able to do screen shots since my new build, due to still being officially unfinished, (OC not finished, and cooling solutions still in the mail) and so it's still, being kept in the "build-room", and off-net. (still no Office or email client, excet)
My old Phenom 2core is still who's on first. . . . that and I'm out of pratice doing-saving& posting screen shots.


----------



## miklkit

It is all about managing the temperatures. If you can keep them down it should be ok. I'm hovering at 50C max on motherboard and cpu and it seems to be ok, besides the damage already done because of overheating. This UD3 was ok until it cooked itself by not throttling up the PWM fans under load. It is still giving crazy fan rpms.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It is all about managing the temperatures. If you can keep them down it should be ok. I'm hovering at 50C max on motherboard and cpu and it seems to be ok, besides the damage already done because of overheating. This UD3 was ok until it cooked itself by not throttling up the PWM fans under load. It is still giving crazy fan rpms.


Hmmm.... guess that's another GOOD reason for something my new case has, it's own seperate (like 10 I think) female-fan-power-wiring harneses. They get their power from a single MOLEX connector so any fan you connect to them runs full time at whatever speed you set the dial for. Sounds like in the case of this MB that might be a very nice option....
JUST one question, does the POST-up "know" and if so, "CARE" whether or not anything is plugged in to the CPU fan power header on the mobo?
Simple enough to find out I guess!! I may test that when my new CPU cooler is being installed....


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> That's another question I had. LLC there are 5 ticks not counting "AUTO". The lowest being either NORMAL or REGULAR, the highest being "Extreme".
> What's the board concensus on that one anyway? "Regular" ? W-T-Heck's the difference anyway between say NORMAL and MEDIUM? Does anybody know?
> 
> Thanks guys!


After playing with two different PSU's: one Sirtec 560 W / 17/16/18A triple rail and one Intertech 750 W / 4x20A quad rail I came to the conclusion that setting "Regular LLC" results in lowest VCore boost/variation (e.g. 1.39-1.43 V). Increasing LLC to "Medium", "High", "Ultra High" etc results in larger vCore Boost accordingly (e.g. 1.39-1.44, 1.45, 1.46V).


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well I'm glad I bought the Enzotech MST-88 when I did! According to Newegg its discontinued and out of stock! I wonder if there are any other options out there for the people who buy this curse of a board.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> After playing with two different PSU's: one Sirtec 560 W / 17/16/18A triple rail and one Intertech 750 W / 4x20A quad rail I came to the conclusion that setting "Regular LLC" results in lowest VCore boost/variation (e.g. 1.39-1.43 V). Increasing LLC to "Medium", "High", "Ultra High" etc results in larger vCore Boost accordingly (e.g. 1.39-1.44, 1.45, 1.46V).


sooooo by "variation" you mean the "spread"? or variation as in HIGHER vs LOWER because I assumed the actual AMOUNT OF BOOST was determined mostly by the VCORE voltage setting. Or is the LLC some combination of the two?
SO If it's controlling (at least in part) the allowable "drift" of CPU voltage, I'm still not clear which end of the regular to Extreme spectrum is TIGHTER and which is WIDER, IF it's even contoling that at all. Suffice to say I'm still not clear on what (you're saying) it's doing.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well I'm glad I bought the Enzotech MST-88 when I did! According to Newegg its discontinued and out of stock! I wonder if there are any other options out there for the people who buy this curse of a board.


dang! I guess I better try and grab one now in case I decide I need it.... (from other than NE)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Enzotech MST-88
Got it !
Still in stock at FrozenCPU.com
$16 and $7.50 for shipping so they're making a buck or 2 on the shipping. Pretty much the same deal as NE give or take a buck....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

LLC
this page seems to cover it pretty well
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2243234
From what I gather there's two ways to play it
you can manually set your CPU voltage "high-ish", then choose a lower LLC and it will cut back the voltage under load.
OR you manually set the CPU voltage "lower-ish" then choose a higher level LLC and it will actually pump-up the voltage under load.
or in theory, shoot for a "sweet spot" in the middle that won't "push" or "pull" your voltage, (under load) one way or the other. HOW exactly that 3rd option differs from just leaving it on AUTO is what I'm still a little fuzzy on.....


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> LLC
> this page seems to cover it pretty well
> http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2243234
> From what I gather there's two ways to play it
> you can manually set your CPU voltage "high-ish", then choose a lower LLC and it will cut back the voltage under load.
> OR you manually set the CPU voltage "lower-ish" then choose a higher level LLC and it will actually pump-up the voltage under load.
> or in theory, shoot for a "sweet spot" in the middle that won't "push" or "pull" your voltage, (under load) one way or the other. HOW exactly that 3rd option differs from just leaving it on AUTO is what I'm still a little fuzzy on.....


http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad


----------



## miklkit

Performance PCs.com has both the Enzotech and the Thermalright mosfet coolers. But they are expensive and their shipping costs are quite high. I want that Thermalright cooler but it feels like I'm getting taken. Shipping is almost as much as the cooler. Still, it is 48mm / 2" tall which puts it well into the wind tunnel between two big fans on my setup.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad


Thanks! That's good too. I had the what, that link gives the what-for. Very Good.
SO THEN understanding the WHAT-FOR a little better the "play" obviously is to manually set the cpu voltage at the upper limits of what you want and then choose an LLC that will trim it back but only the least-trim possible. In the case of our UD3 I'm guessing "Medium"?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Thanks! That's good too. I had the what, that link gives the what-for. Very Good.
> SO THEN understanding the WHAT-FOR a little better the "play" obviously is to manually set the cpu voltage at the upper limits of what you want and then choose an LLC that will trim it back but only the least-trim possible. In the case of our UD3 I'm guessing "Medium"?


It's to protect our cpu but there is a fuse on the mainboard. You can totally disable it. I try to explain what I think. I have written a fan controller for my laptop and the best (but not so simple) algorithm is to measure the change of temperature instead of the absolute value because it's difficult to have a hard coded table for different use case. In the end when you have delta T you can then define different use cases for example eco, sport, city, racing for example in cars. I can imagine this is the same with llc. Hence for me it's extreme setting. But I think in extreme setting the watt and the heat is the greatest, too.
Here is another link: www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=126


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Well, I'm now at a clock speed of 3.99Ghz, (stock 3.30) and the way the system is reacting to the past few tweaks, I'm getting more and more confident that reaching 4.0+ (say between 4.2 and 4.3) is PURELY a matter of COOLING.

And I think it really IS 3.99Ghz because MB BIOS, Windows properties, CPU-Z all reporting same, 3.99Ghz
Temps are maxing out at 47C (highest of the 3 TMPs) _*and I had to dial BACK all the way*_ the Case-fan control dial, set-up a video conversion that lasted about 90 minutes AND start watching vids in the middle of it, to get that.
No stability issues, as is I guess consistent with all temps sub 50C....
The Difference between this fan control on "full" vs minimum looks to be about 3C.
Good news is I'm getting this speed and these temps (under load) with STOCK-ONLY coolers Case and CPU.
The "X-Factor" remains Ambient temp. 68F in here this morning. In few weeks it should more like mid 80S


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Performance PCs.com has both the Enzotech and the Thermalright mosfet coolers. But they are expensive and their shipping costs are quite high. I want that Thermalright cooler but it feels like I'm getting taken. Shipping is almost as much as the cooler. Still, it is 48mm / 2" tall which puts it well into the wind tunnel between two big fans on my setup.


FrozenCPU. has the ENZO's not sure about the other one you mentioned. Their base price (I was wrong it's $17 not $16), same price as NE, and shipping the same as NE at most a buck more. At the mercy of APO don't expect to get cheap or free shipping.

and I just noticed, they're in ROCHESTER NY, which is where I'm from and will be visiting in few weeks, and yeah you can buy on site, at the warehouse . Cool.
Cool because I might have to do an exchange....







Last Night, In a rush and 3 hours past bedtime I accidentally ordered an MST-66 (nearly identical),,,,,,
and now with todays testing I'm thinking even more I won't need even the 88 let alone trying to find a use for the 66.


----------



## Recursion

I was reading this about vdroop: http://sinhardware.com/index.php/reviews/motherboards/gigabyte/am3/98-990fxa-ud7-review/71-990fxa-ud7-review?showall=1. It's not llc but seems important to overclock. I don't understand why there are spikes in the current when there is fast change in load? Maybe the bios is limiting the throttle, too? Because I have read the vrm are designed for 100-150c heat and thus can take easily all the current from the cpu and more?

Update: I think it because the capicitors needs also some time:
Quote:


> The first question that may come to mind is why droop voltage at all. Droop can help to reduce the output-voltage spike that results from fast load/current demand changes. The magnitude of the spike is proportional to the magnitude of the load swing and the ESR/ESL of the output capacitor(s) selected.


----------



## miklkit

From the link in post # 5564 it looks like vdroop happens in all motherboards but some have LLC as a way to automatically compensate for it. I am lusting after a board that does not have LLC, so vdroop must be compensated for by hand. It also looks like the spikes are not that bad unless one is already on the ragged edge.

The temps on this board can spike to 40C while it is idling even when it is normally sitting under ambient temps. So I have backed off on everything to keep max temps at 55C until more and better cooling can be installed. I found an outfit here on the left coast that sells the Thermalright cooler and just bought it. It is cheaper and has much cheaper shipping than the place in Florida. It should cool those VRMs without the need for another fan because it sticks up into the air stream better than the Enzotech.

This board is wounded and I have lost all confidence in it, but can not replace it for a few more months.


----------



## runelotus

To all that wants to use The Thermalright HR-09 mosfet cooler

, the stock mounting system will get snag between the chokes and the capacitor around the mosfet area, you will still need to modify the mounting brackets ,

I Got around this by plastering epoxy on the detachable mounting holes and while the epoxy set in i adjusted it little by little to match the mounting holes on the mobo , so the mosfet cooler is still removable but it will just be compatible with Gigabyte board with a measurements of 84mmX16 base area and not be adjustable as Thermalright advertised


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> FrozenCPU. has the ENZO's not sure about the other one you mentioned. Their base price (I was wrong it's $17 not $16), same price as NE, and shipping the same as NE at most a buck more. At the mercy of APO don't expect to get cheap or free shipping.
> 
> and I just noticed, they're in ROCHESTER NY, which is where I'm from and will be visiting in few weeks, and yeah you can buy on site, at the warehouse . Cool.
> Cool because I might have to do an exchange....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Last Night, In a rush and 3 hours past bedtime I accidentally ordered an MST-66 (nearly identical),,,,,,
> and now with todays testing I'm thinking even more I won't need even the 88 let alone trying to find a use for the 66.


JUST FY'alls Information: They very nicely canceled my MST-66. so Far FrozenCPU.com is looking good.....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

If can get like 4.2Ghz and maintain moderate temps by installing the CPU Cooler, (Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus), I've already paid for I may as well. Based on most recent testing I don't see why not...
But I'm pretty happy now with 3.99Ghz, and the temps-under-load I'm getting all stock.... not bad? yes? no?


----------



## miklkit

I'm not familiar with that cpu, but the temps are similar to what I get putting a very light load on it. Could you run something like OCCT so we could compare apples to apples?


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I'm not familiar with that cpu, but the temps are similar to what I get putting a very light load on it. Could you run something like OCCT so we could compare apples to apples?


OCCT? I'll check it out. Anything that's not gonna beat on the SSD I'm up for...

Or I could just run a 8G DVD through shrink with all the quality options turned on, that's on of the most CPU-resource intensive things I do semi regularly....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

occt is downloaded and on a stick. I'll run it up tomorrow. It's late here.... (I'm still on my old build for primary email an watnot.)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I'm not familiar with that cpu, but the temps are similar to what I get putting a very light load on it. Could you run something like OCCT so we could compare apples to apples?


OK, Apples to Apples!
1st-tab test on OCCT: I hit 60 on CPU temp in just a shade under 3 minutes. No big surprise. (test terminated at that point)
SO of course, without a doubt the OEM CPU cooler is out. No big surprise. I have a decent one already ordered and it's due in this week.

After this test I wanted to see how load-wise, OCCT compared with (probably) the most CPU intensive app I run semi regularly, (shrink)
So I quickly ripped a 7.8G disk and then pumped it through shrink, (full quality options on)
Recap, Video conversion with simultaneous media player running a vid, topped out at 47C
The Shrink encoding topped it out at 53.5c (never stopped bopping back and forth). Which, while not bad, even without the OCCT results,
I would have assumed that 54c in shrink plus the inevitable change in AMBIENT temp, (still relatively cool) was going to = trouble.
It's 69 in here now, when it tops 85(F) (and it will) that 54C will most surely hit and exceed 60C, something I don't intend to permit, other than for testing purposes, not to exceed seconds at a time.

So to recap OCCT, I stay under 60 for roughly 160 seconds. 19c ambient.


----------



## miklkit

I am going to guess that you were using the small data set in OCCT. I already have an aftermarket cooler and will be getting a better one some day, but with the small data set in OCCT this 8350 lasts 1 minute or so before it shuts down at 65C. Or, the last time I ran it it throttled at 59C. So you already have pretty good cooling and your UD3 should survive with a little help.
Using the medium or large data sets my temps peak at 55C +-.

I got an email from Gigabyte yesterday about my review on Newegg. They gave me a case number and an address. I went there and it is an old obsolete site. I have a bad feeling about this.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Gigabyte's VIP Support hasn't answered me in over a week now. Good look with them. Maybe you'll get the same answer I did. "Users on Newegg said its fine!"


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Gigabyte's VIP Support hasn't answered me in over a week now. Good look with them. Maybe you'll get the same answer I did. "Users on Newegg said its fine!"


lol

That can be use to make a meme...

crafting one right now


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Perfect!


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Gigabyte's VIP Support hasn't answered me in over a week now. Good look with them. Maybe you'll get the same answer I did. "Users on Newegg said its fine!"


Honestly not surprised, I am looking to just save some money and buy a new mobo. What Anyone got any suggestions for a board that is in the same price range as this one?(UD3)


----------



## miklkit

To each his own, but I'm looking at these two as they are laid out so that all of my existing hardware fits.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157266

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130649

There are some nice Asus boards too. And then there is the UD5.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> To each his own, but I'm looking at these two as they are laid out so that all of my existing hardware fits.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157266
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130649
> 
> There are some nice Asus boards too. And then there is the UD5.


I've had the asrock extreme 4, good board just couldn't get LLC to work. Every time I enabled it windows wouldn't boot, plus the heatsink on the vrm was way too cheap. Also tried the msi gd-45 and it was garbage. Asus sabertooth is a good option however I am on the gigabyte ud5 right now and I think it is better than the sabertooth. Seems to stabilize much better.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> Honestly not surprised, I am looking to just save some money and buy a new mobo. What Anyone got any suggestions for a board that is in the same price range as this one?(UD3)


well it depends on what you want with it, for higher overclocks i would suggest to get the UD5 because in my opinion it is the most sexy board of them all and second it has great heat sinks on the VRM and more capacitors so it is more stable for overclocking.

Get the rev 1.1 tho it has LLC so it is pretty stable at higher overclocks.

Also the UD5 is not that much expensive than the UD3 and its money well spend


----------



## Recursion

Because the asus sabertooth is mention know that the rev 2 cannot unlock cpu cores. I would also look for the asus m4a99fx rev 2. It has also nice capacitors and digivrm.


----------



## Recursion

Because the asus sabertooth is mention know that the rev 2 cannot unlock cpu cores. I would also look for the asus m4a99fx rev 2. It has also nice capacitors and digivrm.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Because the asus sabertooth is mention know that the rev 2 cannot unlock cpu cores. I would also look for the asus m4a99fx rev 2. It has also nice capacitors and digivrm.


Shouldn't need that function, unless you want to disable cores. All cores should be active all the time.


----------



## Recursion

I have a x2 550 that also work as a b50 x4 but not on this mainboard. The unlocking on this mainboard isn't working and I already told that ga tech. I then bought a fx cpu but that isn't really cheap here in europe.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I am going to guess that you were using the small data set in OCCT. I already have an aftermarket cooler and will be getting a better one some day, but with the small data set in OCCT this 8350 lasts 1 minute or so before it shuts down at 65C. Or, the last time I ran it it throttled at 59C. So you already have pretty good cooling and your UD3 should survive with a little help.
> Using the medium or large data sets my temps peak at 55C +-.
> 
> I got an email from Gigabyte yesterday about my review on Newegg. They gave me a case number and an address. I went there and it is an old obsolete site. I have a bad feeling about this.


OCCT: all I did was fire it up, altered no setting/preferences, nosed around a little to assure myself no part of the test was going to mess with the SSD at all, then leaving it on the first tab, just hit "ON"

I'm fairly content for the moment that, AS-IS, I'm fine doing anything with it I would typically do, as long as ambient stays under 80f. So I'm going put off installing this cooler:


until after I get back from "out-of-town", (apparently attaching adaptor-bracket requires accessing the BACK-side of the MB, ='s board has to come all the way OUT), anyway, I bought it and I fully intend to use it I just don't feel a pressing need to spend the TIME on it between now and mid June.
(CD in pic for scale). You hear how big these things are, might be, in the reviews but it never completely prepares you for when you get the thing in your HAND.
I'm assuming I'll have room enough,

For myself with my lil' ol' 95w 6-core, there is NO chance (this CPU) will ever get a better cooler than this one.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> Honestly not surprised, I am looking to just save some money and buy a new mobo. What Anyone got any suggestions for a board that is in the same price range as this one?(UD3)


If, you have an FX-8-core _*and you're planning to OverClock it*_, forget "same price-range", pony up the extra, what is it, (30-35 bucks?), and get the UD5. JMHO.

(or save a few bucks, get the UD3 and run it stock, ....heck even at stock the FX8000's are plenty zippy.)

OR OR OR, if you haven't bought the CPU yet, I do recommend what I have, the FX-6100 (almost HALF the cost of an 8000 series!) and the UD3 are a very decent match. But, consistent with pretty much all OC-boards/scenarios you'll need to ditch the OEM CPU cooler if you plan to OC. Also DO NOT fail to upgrade the BIOS to "FC".


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> If, you have an FX-8-core _*and you're planning to OverClock it*_, forget "same price-range", pony up the extra, what is it, (30-35 bucks?), and get the UD5. JMHO.
> 
> (or save a few bucks, get the UD3 and run it stock, ....heck even at stock the FX8000's are plenty zippy.)
> 
> OR OR OR, if you haven't bought the CPU yet, I do recommend what I have, the FX-6100 (almost HALF the cost of an 8000 series!) and the UD3 are a very decent match. But, consistent with pretty much all OC-boards/scenarios you'll need to ditch the OEM CPU cooler if you plan to OC. Also DO NOT fail to upgrade the BIOS to "FC".


? The 6100 is pretty much garbage compared to the newer vishera core 4300, 6300 etc. I have no idea of even the price of the 6100.


----------



## miklkit

You should NOT need to remove the motherboard to install that 212 HSF. I did not with an Arctic A30 which is very similar. The mother board already has a steel back plate installed and holding the stock cooler in place. I just removed the screws from the stock plate and installed the adapters one screw at a time. It took maybe a half hour total.
One thing you will need to change is the fan. It will not clear the heat sinks on your ram. It must be removed, flipped over so it blows in the opposite direction, and then the cooler must be installed so that the fan is on the back side next to the VRMs. Positioned like that it is pulling air through the cooler instead of pushing it through and blowing directly at the case exhaust fan. That is how my A30 is set up and tests have shown that it only runs 1-2C warmer that way.

noneweggforme: I believe you are correct. I have been reading reviews of the cheaper boards from all manufacturers and am seeing the same things we are seeing here. The 8XXX cpu cooks them all.


----------



## Pudfark

Well my Sabertooth r.2 arrived yesterday. It's a replacement for my "sick" UD3 rev. 1.1 board with the failing VRMs.
There are in my opinion significant differences between them, other than cost.

The most important to me was the back of the board, underneath the VRMs. What I thought was a "support" to keep the board from warping? It is, plus it also appears to be a flat heatsink and it has what appears to be thermal tape between it and the board. Asus, it seems, knew about VRMs overheating and took very aggressive steps to cool them. Gigabyte didn't know or didn't care.

This is typed on the wifes computer...I am taking my time with Sabertooth install. I plan to place a fan on the backside of the Mobo aimed at the "VRM heat sink" and of course one on the front side VRM
heat sink.

It just bar-b-ques my chili, that I can't buy a premium quality mobo with two graphic slots....you must by 3,4 or more. rant over.
I hope this helps y'all.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Well my Sabertooth r.2 arrived yesterday. It's a replacement for my "sick" UD3 rev. 1.1 board with the failing VRMs.
> There are in my opinion significant differences between them, other than cost.
> 
> The most important to me was the back of the board, underneath the VRMs. What I thought was a "support" to keep the board from warping? It is, plus it also appears to be a flat heatsink and it has what appears to be thermal tape between it and the board. Asus, it seems, knew about VRMs overheating and took very aggressive steps to cool them. Gigabyte didn't know or didn't care.
> 
> This is typed on the wifes computer...I am taking my time with Sabertooth install. I plan to place a fan on the backside of the Mobo aimed at the "VRM heat sink" and of course one on the front side VRM
> heat sink.
> 
> It just bar-b-ques my chili, that I can't buy a premium quality mobo with two graphic slots....you must by 3,4 or more. rant over.
> I hope this helps y'all.


If only ASUS would release a Maximus Gene equivalent for the AM3+ / 990FX chipset...


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> If, you have an FX-8-core _*and you're planning to OverClock it*_, forget "same price-range", pony up the extra, what is it, (30-35 bucks?), and get the UD5. JMHO.
> 
> (or save a few bucks, get the UD3 and run it stock, ....heck even at stock the FX8000's are plenty zippy.)
> 
> OR OR OR, if you haven't bought the CPU yet, I do recommend what I have, the FX-6100 (almost HALF the cost of an 8000 series!) and the UD3 are a very decent match. But, consistent with pretty much all OC-boards/scenarios you'll need to ditch the OEM CPU cooler if you plan to OC. Also DO NOT fail to upgrade the BIOS to "FC".


Run it stock!? Come on bro, this is OCN, stock clocks are for guys that can't afford LN2 cooling systems and live in the desert, lol.

I agree... if you want to play around with OC an FX-8xxx series go with the UD5 or an ASUS Sabertooth, and I would even recommend it for the FX-6xxx series if you want to push some healthy OCs... the UD5 is only $30 more than the UD3 (169.99 compared to 139.99 on newegg) and the Sabertooth is just $10 more (179.99)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> ? The 6100 is pretty much garbage compared to the newer vishera core 4300, 6300 etc. I have no idea of even the price of the 6100.


The 6100s are currently about $120, same price as the 4300, the 4350 is $10 more, and the 6300 and 6350 both are $140.

In DevliDog's case I would spend the $20 extra over the 41 for the 43, and wait on the Steamroller desktop chips to launch late this year/early next. If Steamroller turns out to be anything close to what the hype is (for once), then it would be well worth waiting until then and getting the Steamroller (I think the 8520 and 8550?) for the upgrade to the 8-core CPU... And if Steamroller falls flat on it's face, the Piledrivers will be $20-$50 cheaper by then.


----------



## Pudfark

This probably my last post in this particular thread. When I removed my UD3 Rev. 1.1 mobo from the case, it was warped like a "mofo".
I knew it would be, based upon the "OZZinator's" posts.

Later and good luck everybody, hope y'all find a feasible solution. I can be found in the "Sabertooth" section here,
Thank You ALL.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> ? The 6100 is pretty much garbage compared to the newer vishera core 4300, 6300 etc. I have no idea of even the price of the 6100.


ALL OT:
To be honest I'm not real familiar with the Vishera core procs.
I paid $106 for mine. No coupon no rebate. They must have gone up, I just checked amazon and the average right now is about $115.
the 4300 (4-core) vishera you mentioned is averaging $120, the 6300, $130 ($140 at the egg)
Is a 4 core 3.8ghz proc better than a 6 core 3.3ghz? Maybe unless the Caches count for nothing. the 6100 has 8mg of L3 and 6Mg of L2 vs the 4300 4mg of L3 and 2X2mb of L2
And I got my 6100 up to 3.99 without hardly breaking a sweat. Will the 4300 OC as nicely, maybe, but I can't say personally.
That 6300 is a better comparison for my money but it's also $20 more, and at that difference, _*probably*_ worth it. But it's $34 more than I paid for mine. For what I paid, I'm not unhappy at all.
s15sLiDeR, who's question I was answering was looking to "save some money" which is why I pointed him at my 6100. Now that I've had a look at the 4300 and 6300, I'd say look for the best
price on any of those 3. They're all 95w procs so ALL should be good matches with "our" 990fx-UD3


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You should NOT need to remove the motherboard to install that 212 HSF. I did not with an Arctic A30 which is very similar. The mother board already has a steel back plate installed and holding the stock cooler in place. I just removed the screws from the stock plate and installed the adapters one screw at a time. It took maybe a half hour total.
> One thing you will need to change is the fan. It will not clear the heat sinks on your ram. It must be removed, flipped over so it blows in the opposite direction, and then the cooler must be installed so that the fan is on the back side next to the VRMs. Positioned like that it is pulling air through the cooler instead of pushing it through and blowing directly at the case exhaust fan. That is how my A30 is set up and tests have shown that it only runs 1-2C warmer that way.
> 
> noneweggforme: I believe you are correct. I have been reading reviews of the cheaper boards from all manufacturers and am seeing the same things we are seeing here. The 8XXX cpu cooks them all.


Thanks man! that is good to know. Supposidly there's a you-tube video posted by COOLER MASTER on how to instal my 212, as for the ram heat sink conflict you mentioned, I assumed I wouldn't have 360 degree freedom on positioning the cooler. Your suggestion is a good idea, thanks ya! But, what about just rotating it 90 degrees (either way) in the interest of keeping the fan blowing through the fins (vs sucking) (Keep in mind I aint 'got back in there' yet in case this is a really stupid question.)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Run it stock!? Come on bro, this is OCN, stock clocks are for guys that can't afford LN2 cooling systems and live in the desert, lol.
> 
> I agree... if you want to play around with OC an FX-8xxx series go with the UD5 or an ASUS Sabertooth, and I would even recommend it for the FX-6xxx series if you want to push some healthy OCs... the UD5 is only $30 more than the UD3 (169.99 compared to 139.99 on newegg) and the Sabertooth is just $10 more (179.99)
> The 6100s are currently about $120, same price as the 4300, the 4350 is $10 more, and the 6300 and 6350 both are $140.
> 
> In DevliDog's case I would spend the $20 extra over the 41 for the 43, and wait on the Steamroller desktop chips to launch late this year/early next. If Steamroller turns out to be anything close to what the hype is (for once), then it would be well worth waiting until then and getting the Steamroller (I think the 8520 and 8550?) for the upgrade to the 8-core CPU... And if Steamroller falls flat on it's face, the Piledrivers will be $20-$50 cheaper by then.


I only mentioned running at stock because the guy was asking about saving $! Maybe OC'ing and worrying too much about saving money are somewhat mutually exclusive. Or maybe it's just this board and current generation of AMD CPU's.
I OC'd my phenom 2 core on my BIOSTAR MB no sweat, (albeit modestly), stock everything, no after market nuttin!
that's actually the pc I'm still on at the moment!


----------



## Panickypress

Hey, quick question.. Can anybody give a clear answer to what is what- tmpin0 tmpn1 tmpin2 ? on the ud7...
reason for the question is that i bsod'ed for the first time ever on this board today, and my tmpin2 was at 43c wich it has never been before! So I'm scared. I was only watching youtube nothing heavy going on... I have had this board since it came out (rev 1), same oc same everything.. now suddenly bsod and temperature difference in tmpin2.


----------



## miklkit

Try going back to page 548 or so to see what our best guess is as to TMPIN0,1,2. Does anyone really know?

The A30 can only be rotated 180 degrees. Dunno about the 212.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panickypress*
> 
> Hey, quick question.. Can anybody give a clear answer to what is what- tmpin0 tmpn1 tmpin2 ? on the ud7...
> reason for the question is that i bsod'ed for the first time ever on this board today, and my tmpin2 was at 43c wich it has never been before! So I'm scared. I was only watching youtube nothing heavy going on... I have had this board since it came out (rev 1), same oc same everything.. now suddenly bsod and temperature difference in tmpin2.


on the UD3 tmp2 is the CPU. I guess it could be different but I don't see why it would be.
AND IF it IS the CPU and you're BSOD'in at 43C that's not good. Unless the CPU is defective somehow, something else is wrong. More likely, Windows related. Virus maybe.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Try going back to page 548 or so to see what our best guess is as to TMPIN0,1,2. Does anyone really know?
> 
> The A30 can only be rotated 180 degrees. Dunno about the 212.


I don't know either, not read the instructions yet. I was assuming I had a 4 choices, at least one of which might require flipping the fan.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panickypress*
> 
> Hey, quick question.. Can anybody give a clear answer to what is what- tmpin0 tmpn1 tmpin2 ? on the ud7...
> reason for the question is that i bsod'ed for the first time ever on this board today, and my tmpin2 was at 43c wich it has never been before! So I'm scared. I was only watching youtube nothing heavy going on... I have had this board since it came out (rev 1), same oc same everything.. now suddenly bsod and temperature difference in tmpin2.


Don't know what version of Windows (assuming) you're running but even if it's 7, if it's more than 24 months old and been heavy internet-use pc the whole time, anything is possible.
Especially if you're running free-ware AV/security software.
this pc I'm on is 7pro a little over 3 years old and I KNOW it's past due ready for a clean re-install. (hence my building the new one)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

BOND32,
sorry if I came off a tad defensive! I took another look at your post and you probably didn't deserve the tone I came back with.


----------



## Panickypress

Yeah, I was really hoping for it to be virus - can't afford a new cpu at the moment but formatting is just time







.. and all readings from every monitoring program is reading good temps 22c-31c so i'm rooting for virus








but i still think it is wierd that tempin2 is different than it used to be right after bsod.

@miklkit what page? i only have 56... what post #


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panickypress*
> 
> Yeah, I was really hoping for it to be virus - can't afford a new cpu at the moment but formatting is just time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. and all readings from every monitoring program is reading good temps 22c-31c so i'm rooting for virus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but i still think it is wierd that tempin2 is different than it used to be right after bsod.
> 
> @miklkit what page? i only have 56... what post #


Were you futher OC'd in the past than you are now? IOW has that CPU ever been much hotter for an extended period in the past?
(follow where I'm drifting?)


----------



## Panickypress

Yep, i have tormented the sh+t out of this chip but not for a year or so, i have had it on a steady oc for a long time no problems at all. and then suddenly bsod.. after a year or so?.. and i have nice cooling! i will try a clean swipe, and hope for the best, but it would be nice to know if there was a connection about the difference in temperature and the bsod.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> This probably my last post in this particular thread. When I removed my UD3 Rev. 1.1 mobo from the case, it was warped like a "mofo".
> I knew it would be, based upon the "OZZinator's" posts.
> 
> Later and good luck everybody, hope y'all find a feasible solution. I can be found in the "Sabertooth" section here,
> Thank You ALL.


I'm not surprised your board is warped. Seems to be pretty common when guys pull them out to check.

Let us know how the new board is. I'm hoping to get a sabertooth in the near future nbc


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Try going back to page 548 or so to see what our best guess is as to TMPIN0,1,2. Does anyone really know?
> 
> The A30 can only be rotated 180 degrees. Dunno about the 212.


I don't think anyone has a true answer as to what these sensors are reading, Gigabyte probably doesn't even know and they made the damn thing.


----------



## miklkit

Try post # 5471 and go from there. There is some educated guessing going on there.


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I don't think anyone has a true answer as to what these sensors are reading, Gigabyte probably doesn't even know and they made the damn thing.


I gave up trying to get an accurate answer. Nothing has caught on fire yet, thats all I know for sure.

Hey Ozzy, what was Giga's response? "Newegg Users say it's fine!"


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> I gave up trying to get an accurate answer. Nothing has caught on fire yet, thats all I know for sure.
> 
> Hey Ozzy, what was Giga's response? "Newegg Users say it's fine!"


??? I had no idea this was supposed to be an issue.
First I could have sworn I heard someone here state with reasonable authority that 2 was the CPU (or VCORE) and 1 was either "System" or the onboard NB and or SB, leaving 3 to be whatever was left but since the CPU was the hottest and of by far greatest concern it's the only one I "stored" (2). Plus in the BIOS the temp that consistantly ran hotter than all the others was specifically labeled "CPU", So when I ran up CPUID H/W Monitor, and TMP2 was on average 10 15c hotter than either 1 or 3 I was doubly confident that 2 had to be CPU. Am I missing something? Or just misconstruing what ya'll are talking about here. (wouldn't be the first time!







)


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baskt_Case*
> 
> I gave up trying to get an accurate answer. Nothing has caught on fire yet, thats all I know for sure.
> 
> Hey Ozzy, what was Giga's response? "Newegg Users say it's fine!"


I wonder how many of those Newegg users have throttling/VRM issues/warping and actually have no clue. I wouldn't be surprised if it were more than 90% lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> ??? I had no idea this was supposed to be an issue.
> First I could have sworn I heard someone here state with reasonable authority that 2 was the CPU (or VCORE) and 1 was either "System" or the onboard NB and or SB, leaving 3 to be whatever was left but since the CPU was the hottest and of by far greatest concern it's the only one I "stored" (2). Plus in the BIOS the temp that consistantly ran hotter than all the others was specifically labeled "CPU", So when I ran up CPUID H/W Monitor, and TMP2 was on average 10 15c hotter than either 1 or 3 I was doubly confident that 2 had to be CPU. Am I missing something? Or just misconstruing what ya'll are talking about here. (wouldn't be the first time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


TMPIN0 is supposed to be the system temp. TMPIN1 is supposed to be CPU and TMPIN2 is supposed to be the chipset/NB. Now it seems that for guys with Phenom CPU's, that holds true. However for me (and possibly others) TMPIN1 is generally a few degrees lower than TMPIN2 and TMPIN2 matches CPU package temps identically. AMD Overdrive CPU temp matches TMPIN2 and ET6 CPU temp matches TMPIN2. Open Hardware Monitor shows Core temp and Temperature 3 (TMPIN2) to be identical as well. My professional analysis of the data concludes that Gigabyte is garbage.


----------



## Fordox

i've verified that for the fx bulldozer series it also is tmpin1.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I wonder how many of those Newegg users have throttling/VRM issues/warping and actually have no clue. I wouldn't be surprised if it were more than 90% lol
> TMPIN0 is supposed to be the system temp. TMPIN1 is supposed to be CPU and TMPIN2 is supposed to be the chipset/NB. Now it seems that for guys with Phenom CPU's, that holds true. However for me (and possibly others) TMPIN1 is generally a few degrees lower than TMPIN2 and TMPIN2 matches CPU package temps identically. AMD Overdrive CPU temp matches TMPIN2 and ET6 CPU temp matches TMPIN2. Open Hardware Monitor shows Core temp and Temperature 3 (TMPIN2) to be identical as well. My professional analysis of the data concludes that Gigabyte is garbage.


yeah I totally hosed the 0-1-2 vs 1-2-3 thing obviously.....

here on the new build, first time. and it's XP. (taking a break from working on some minor XP issues)


----------



## miklkit

So if TMPIN0 is some generic motherboard temp, and TMPIN1 is the CPU socket, what is TMPIN2? Is it the Northbridge or the VRMs?
I have heard it both ways.


----------



## Baskt_Case

I honestly dont know what it is for sure now. I used to be convinced it was the Northbridge.

I'm gonna slap an 80mm on the backside case mount blowing at the socket, and put another 80mm over my VRM's and see if I can squeeze a little more out of this overclock. Surely the backside fan will help. The backside of my motherboard gets nearly too hot to touch.

I dont care if I cook the board anymore.


----------



## bond32

How are you guys controlling PWM fans? I can't get speedfan to work nor the gigabyte utility...


----------



## Baskt_Case

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> How are you guys controlling PWM fans? I can't get speedfan to work nor the gigabyte utility...


Can't really help you there, the only PWM fans I have are on my H100i and they are controlled by the fan controller in the pump/block. All my other fans are wide open, I've turned off all the BIOS fan controls and most of my fans are hooked directly to my PSU.

I should have known putting a fan over the backplate wasn't going to do anything. I've tried this once before. I managed 1C cooler running IBT.


----------



## miklkit

One theory on the sensors I found here today is that TMPIN2 is the VRMs but Gigabyte wants us to think it's the Northbridge. That guy was angry.

The Northbridge is right under the CPU and my soundcard is in front of it and almost touching it. If it was overheating there would be sound issues and there are no problems there. When I'm stress testing it the case in the corner where the VRMs are gets almost too hot to touch but is cool where the CPU and Northbridge are. I very tentatively suspect that it is the Northbridge and the VRMs have no sensors at all.

I have 2 PWM fans and I let the bios control them on auto, until it didn't rev them up when the system was stressed and it overheated. After that I set the PWMs to manual and had to run the multiplier, or whatever it is, up to 2 to get the fans to hit max rpms. Of course the bios still does not read them correctly and every day one of them hits 675,000 rpm........


----------



## rawsteel

Thats strange my VRMs are cool but my Northbridge gets almost too hot to touch...

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=9335.45


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

That's something that would be nice to see Gigabyte standardize... no matter what board and monitoring software one uses it should be the same across the board and simply labeled. On my UD5, HWMonitor shows me motherboard temp, CPU, and temperature 3... The motherboard reading is always they highest, the CPU is usually 10-15 degrees above the CPU Core 0 temp it shows, and Temp 3 is generally the lowest temp of the 3...



It makes no sense that the reported CPU temps are seldom any closer than ~7-10 C. It makes less sense that Temp 3 isn't near any other temp reported.


----------



## miklkit

Holycow! Rawsteel, you guys are hitting 80C! The cpu self destructs at that temp. From what I have been reading elsewhere the VRMs are good for 100-120C. My Northbridge and CPU core run at the same temps and throttle at 59C with this dying UD3.


----------



## Fordox

@SpacemanSpliff you made a beginners mistake.
DON'T EVER read the temperatures from the cpu out of the core sensors.


----------



## mfalconer

I'm totally frustrated. I imported my new mid-end gaming PC parts and I wanted to give AMD a try to start overclocking. Here's my rig:

Windows 7 x64 (I also installed Windows8 x64)
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ZYTc
Motherboard Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 1.0
AMD FX-6300 not overclocked at all.
(4 x 4gb) 16gb RAM Samsung branded 1600mhz (I tried with some Kingston low-profiled well rated in Newegg that a friend of mine currently uses, they're 1333mhz and also I get the same issue)
Nvidia GTX 650 Ti Boost
PSU Seasonic G 550 80 Plus Gold.

I've tried turning on my computer with only ONE stick of RAM but doesn't show anything on the screen, doesn't make sounds but the CPU fan sometimes gets louder. If I place TWO sticks of RAM I only get 4gb and when I go full house, I only get 8gb. I've cleared CMOS several times, I've cleared it with the pin, removing the battery, I've tried to force 1333mhz, I've taken out the GPU, put it back in, I've searched for bent pins on the processor and looks flawless, I've not overclocked at all because annoys me that I've only available 8gb. Easy Tuner from Gigabyte and CPUZ are able to see I've 4gb sticks available. The only time I was able to see 16gb was when I placed the other Kingston memory from my friend but as soon as I tried stability with Prime95 to start overclocking, the setting got screwed again. I've searched a lot and I'm not able to find a suitable answer. What could it be?

RMA is not an option since I live in El Salvador.

What can I do, experts? I'm in your hands.

Thank you!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfalconer*
> 
> I'm totally frustrated. I imported my new mid-end gaming PC parts and I wanted to give AMD a try to start overclocking. Here's my rig:
> 
> Windows 7 x64 (I also installed Windows8 x64)
> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ZYTc
> Motherboard Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 1.0
> AMD FX-6300 not overclocked at all.
> (4 x 4gb) 16gb RAM Samsung branded 1600mhz (I tried with some Kingston low-profiled well rated in Newegg that a friend of mine currently uses, they're 1333mhz and also I get the same issue)
> Nvidia GTX 650 Ti Boost
> PSU Seasonic G 550 80 Plus Gold.
> 
> I've tried turning on my computer with only ONE stick of RAM but doesn't show anything on the screen, doesn't make sounds but the CPU fan sometimes gets louder. If I place TWO sticks of RAM I only get 4gb and when I go full house, I only get 8gb. I've cleared CMOS several times, I've cleared it with the pin, removing the battery, I've tried to force 1333mhz, I've taken out the GPU, put it back in, I've searched for bent pins on the processor and looks flawless, I've not overclocked at all because annoys me that I've only available 8gb. Easy Tuner from Gigabyte and CPUZ are able to see I've 4gb sticks available. The only time I was able to see 16gb was when I placed the other Kingston memory from my friend but as soon as I tried stability with Prime95 to start overclocking, the setting got screwed again. I've searched a lot and I'm not able to find a suitable answer. What could it be?
> 
> RMA is not an option since I live in El Salvador.
> 
> What can I do, experts? I'm in your hands.
> 
> Thank you!


Your friends RAM was all recognized yet yours isn't? Honestly I would say your RAM kit is probably defective







Can you have your friend try your RAM in his system to see if his can find it?


----------



## Hellsrage

I'm so tired of this board, I had it at 4.6GHz but in Sony Vegas the 100% load would cause throttling so I put it at stock but I couldn't stand the performance loss I got in some games. So right now I decided I would see just how high I could go with some stability, my end result was that at 4.0GHz it was unstable unless HPC was on and I only tested for 2-3 minutes so hell it may have lost stability in 10-15 minutes, with HPC mode on I decided hey lets see if 4.2GHz works after all it's the stock boost clock so that shouldn't be pushing it, I was wrong I went about 2 minutes in Prime95 before it started throttling.








This is just so frustrating, I sent yet another email to Gigabyte I don't even know what to expect from them anymore but I was pretty mad in the message and honestly I'm only gonna get worse if they keep acting like this problem doesn't exist.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> @SpacemanSpliff you made a beginners mistake.
> DON'T EVER read the temperatures from the cpu out of the core sensors.


I'm not too familiar with HWMonitor, but I definitely agree that it makes much more sense for the CPU temp to be much more consistent as opposed to such a broad spectrum between Idle and Load temps. That's actually somewhat encouraging because generally under heavy load the CPU temp listed under the board sensors is actually lower than the core temp reported... which of course means I have more overclocking headspace available. Perhaps a 5GHz+ OC is still within reach after all... but it will have to wait until Tuesday after a good night's sleep from the 4 straight nights of closing the bar... The lone drawback to being a bartender... you seldom get home before 330, let alone get to sleep before 430.


----------



## miklkit

About memory, I read somewhere on these forums that Samsung ram should be avoided. I am using 16gb of GSkill ram and it is working fine.

Hellsrage, what temps was it showing when it started throttling? Mine used to throttle at 65C, then 62C, and the last time I dared to stress test it it throttled at 59C.
My current theory is that as the board warps it pulls the VRMs away from the cooler, causing them to overheat and throttle. As the board warps more this happens sooner.


----------



## baconybacon

I decided to take out my board, regoo everything, put a spacer in the H60 and try something with the slight warping I'm having on my board as well. Digging through my box of misc poop I found some pyramid shaped rubber spacers. (heres the closest picture I could find on the googles)



The ones I have are a little skinner but about 3-4mm taller then the metal standoffs holding the board down. So I put four of them spread out beneath the vrms and directed a 80mm fan over them. Now I don't know if it was the combination of stuff I did but the temps went through the floor. Playing BF3 last night the CPU peaked at 50'C whereas it would peak at ~58'C before. Running prime95 for an hour clocked at 4.4G (FX8350/multiplier only), stock voltages there was no throttling. I'm content @4.4, with fancontrol controlling the H60 this computer is almost completely silent when not under load, finally...

I can't complain, much, about this board. I dunno, this took way to much reading, after market parts and testing to get to this point...


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> About memory, I read somewhere on these forums that Samsung ram should be avoided. I am using 16gb of GSkill ram and it is working fine.
> 
> Hellsrage, what temps was it showing when it started throttling? Mine used to throttle at 65C, then 62C, and the last time I dared to stress test it it throttled at 59C.
> My current theory is that as the board warps it pulls the VRMs away from the cooler, causing them to overheat and throttle. As the board warps more this happens sooner.


That's no theory my friend. I've proved that, that is exactly what is happening. My board was so warped only the outer two VRM's on each side made contact with the heatsink. "Shimming" my board to keep pressure against the warped area is the only thing that stopped that but even with good contact across the VRM's it will still over heat and throttle without a fan on the VRM heatsink.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> About memory, I read somewhere on these forums that Samsung ram should be avoided. I am using 16gb of GSkill ram and it is working fine.
> 
> Hellsrage, what temps was it showing when it started throttling? Mine used to throttle at 65C, then 62C, and the last time I dared to stress test it it throttled at 59C.
> My current theory is that as the board warps it pulls the VRMs away from the cooler, causing them to overheat and throttle. As the board warps more this happens sooner.


Everything was in the mid 40s which has me worried because now it's throttling at rather cool temps.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Playing BF3 last night the CPU peaked at 50'C whereas it would peak at ~58'C before.


hmm thats interesting.

after seeing these results, i think im going to try the same thing. first ill check if my bord is warped.

i will be excited if it lowers my cpu temp.

on another note: the Asrock 970 extreme 3 has the same issue apparently. i just saw it in a thread on a dutch forum. dont know if it is coincidence, but it do is weird. maybe this is also happening on intel boards.


----------



## mfalconer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Your friends RAM was all recognized yet yours isn't? Honestly I would say your RAM kit is probably defective
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you have your friend try your RAM in his system to see if his can find it?


I did try them on his system (he has a Sabertooth) and they go flawless... actually he bought some G.Skill Sniper for himself and gave me the Kingston ones (that are this ones: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=20-139-046&SortField=1&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=gigabyte#top) I tried them again and nothing happened. Stayed into 8gb. However, I did found something interesting... when looking up on CPUZ, memory shows as "single channel", however recognizes 16gb. When I checked over AMD Overdrive, checks out 16gb and "dual channel". Is there a way to secure in BIOS to go Dual/Single Channel?


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfalconer*
> 
> I'm totally frustrated. I imported my new mid-end gaming PC parts and I wanted to give AMD a try to start overclocking. Here's my rig:
> 
> Windows 7 x64 (I also installed Windows8 x64)
> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ZYTc
> Motherboard Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 1.0
> AMD FX-6300 not overclocked at all.
> (4 x 4gb) 16gb RAM Samsung branded 1600mhz (I tried with some Kingston low-profiled well rated in Newegg that a friend of mine currently uses, they're 1333mhz and also I get the same issue)
> Nvidia GTX 650 Ti Boost
> PSU Seasonic G 550 80 Plus Gold.
> 
> I've tried turning on my computer with only ONE stick of RAM but doesn't show anything on the screen, doesn't make sounds but the CPU fan sometimes gets louder. If I place TWO sticks of RAM I only get 4gb and when I go full house, I only get 8gb. I've cleared CMOS several times, I've cleared it with the pin, removing the battery, I've tried to force 1333mhz, I've taken out the GPU, put it back in, I've searched for bent pins on the processor and looks flawless, I've not overclocked at all because annoys me that I've only available 8gb. Easy Tuner from Gigabyte and CPUZ are able to see I've 4gb sticks available. The only time I was able to see 16gb was when I placed the other Kingston memory from my friend but as soon as I tried stability with Prime95 to start overclocking, the setting got screwed again. I've searched a lot and I'm not able to find a suitable answer. What could it be?
> 
> RMA is not an option since I live in El Salvador.
> 
> What can I do, experts? I'm in your hands.
> 
> Thank you!


1.) I've never heard/seen Samsung RAM well reviewed/rated anywhere. I'd start shopping around for something else.
2.) You didn't say what BIOS version you're running but based on your RAM issues I'm betting FA, DO THE FLASH to FC. I and another guy here had RAM issues that got WAY better after the BIOS flash. My CORSAIR Vengeance is rated at only 1600 and currently it's up to 1959, before the BIOS flash I was lucky to get 1600.
If after the BIOS update you're still not seeing 16GB then LOSE the SAMSUNG. I reccomned G.SKILL Ripjaws Series or CORSAIR Vengeance, but whatever you get, make sure it's "high performance" or "gaming" (under "Recomended use") or look for "XMP (Extreme Memory Profile) Support"
3.) if you're planning to OC the CPU eventually and it sounds like you are, and you're still sitting on a stock OEM cpu cooler, then you need to get something a little better on the way as well. Spend not LESS than $25 on that. This is the one I got. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus)
havn't installed it yet but I have no reason to doubt it will do the job.
ANYWAY update the bios and see where ya stand.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

I was pushing some DVD encoding today (CPU TEMP 50 (+/- 3C) and at the same time I was trying to move some large files off of a USB 3.0 external drive when for no apparent reason the external drive began, for lack of a better word, halting, stalling... could this be "throttling" related? Please say no.
If it is then I'm going to have to just get OFF this machine until such time as I HAVE TIME to install the new CPU COOLER


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> I was pushing some DVD encoding today (CPU TEMP 50 (+/- 3C) and at the same time I was trying to move some large files off of a USB 3.0 external drive when for no apparent reason the external drive began, for lack of a better word, halting, stalling... could this be "throttling" related? Please say no.
> If it is then I'm going to have to just get OFF this machine until such time as I HAVE TIME to install the new CPU COOLER


That doesn't seem like throttling per say to me... USB is always a secondary priority to resources if you have a program running from your main disk storage and off of your dedicated system memory. Also, depending on how large the files you're working on are it could be a matter of caching and the size page file you have Windows set to use. In case you're not familiar with what I mean by that, In windows, the OS sets aside a portion of the HDD/SSD (in Windows 7 I believe this is a minimum of 16GB and a max of 64GB) so if you're physical memory or CPU cache is getting taxed heavily it will switch to using the page file cache set aside on the disk drive. That can cause the halting and stalling you experienced.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> That doesn't seem like throttling per say to me... USB is always a secondary priority to resources if you have a program running from your main disk storage and off of your dedicated system memory. Also, depending on how large the files you're working on are it could be a matter of caching and the size page file you have Windows set to use. In case you're not familiar with what I mean by that, In windows, the OS sets aside a portion of the HDD/SSD (in Windows 7 I believe this is a minimum of 16GB and a max of 64GB) so if you're physical memory or CPU cache is getting taxed heavily it will switch to using the page file cache set aside on the disk drive. That can cause the halting and stalling you experienced.


Thanks Spaceman! I'm just glad to hear at least one person say they don't think throttling. I was concerned because I'm staring to hear some folks complain of issues a temps well shy of 60C. AND I've heard that depending on your OC "profile", IOW if you're tweaking up things other than just the CPU voltage and multiplier (as I am) it can result in, a cascading effect where pretty much _*everything*_ is being OC'd (or "stressed") including the USB controler, and what if.....? AND yeah, caching was in the back of my mind. But this was more like a shut-down than the on-off-on of caching. The USB would hit these large vob files and the light on the drive would just go out and that was that. I restarted, changed the cable, and moved from a front-side 3.0 port to back-pannel one and all was groovy. I then returned to the top/front side port and original cable, and still all good. so that kinda left me with what-all else was going on at the time of the "gag' you know? At first I thought the drive might have been bad or drop-damaged. It's seems fine again for now.... But my radar is up now big time.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Thanks Spaceman! I'm just glad to hear at least one person say they don't think throttling. I was concerned because I'm staring to hear some folks complain of issues a temps well shy of 60C. AND I've heard that depending on your OC "profile", IOW if you're tweaking up things other than just the CPU voltage and multiplier (as I am) it can result in, a cascading effect where pretty much _*everything*_ is being OC'd (or "stressed") including the USB controler, and what if.....? AND yeah, caching was in the back of my mind. But this was more like a shut-down than the on-off-on of caching. The USB would hit these large vob files and the light on the drive would just go out and that was that. I restarted, changed the cable, and moved from a front-side 3.0 port to back-pannel one and all was groovy. I then returned to the top/front side port and original cable, and still all good. so that kinda left me with what-all else was going on at the time of the "gag' you know? At first I thought the drive might have been bad or drop-damaged. It's seems fine again for now.... But my radar is up now big time.


Then it would seem to me that one of your OC settings needs tweaked... It would lead me to think that the LLC or the Vcore needs tweaked, perhaps the HTT multiplier, maybe even a slight bump to the RAM voltage could fix it. Those at least seem to be the most likely suspects to me as it seems to only get congested at heavy CPU and Memory loads. I couldn't say for certain though, I've not really been successfully dialing in a good OC yet outside of a straightforward CPU Multiplier/Vcore boost... That's my project over the next week, because I've been able to get to 4.6 @ 1.45V on a simple CPUx increase, but not without getting dangerously high temps after about 15 minutes at full load... I'm thinking that I should be able to hit close to 5 or better if I can dial in a nice stable CPU/HTT overclock and keep the Vcore closer to about 1.4... maybe 1.425v.

I have noticed that the only time I experience "throttling like symptoms" is either on a 40% or higher OC, or when I'm really taxing the tar out of the cache, memory, and page file. My UD5 never really seems to get very hot, but I have noticed it can suffer from some pretty significant Vdroop at times... so hopefully I can get it dialed in and tuned as best as I can over the next week or two. But with all the issues of the 990FX that have been discussed on here, I'll keep pretty constant track of voltage usage and temps in HWinfo as I go through the process and share anything that seems unusual.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Then it would seem to me that one of your OC settings needs tweaked... It would lead me to think that the LLC or the Vcore needs tweaked, perhaps the HTT multiplier, maybe even a slight bump to the RAM voltage could fix it. Those at least seem to be the most likely suspects to me as it seems to only get congested at heavy CPU and Memory loads. I couldn't say for certain though, I've not really been successfully dialing in a good OC yet outside of a straightforward CPU Multiplier/Vcore boost... That's my project over the next week, because I've been able to get to 4.6 @ 1.45V on a simple CPUx increase, but not without getting dangerously high temps after about 15 minutes at full load... I'm thinking that I should be able to hit close to 5 or better if I can dial in a nice stable CPU/HTT overclock and keep the Vcore closer to about 1.4... maybe 1.425v.
> 
> I have noticed that the only time I experience "throttling like symptoms" is either on a 40% or higher OC, or when I'm really taxing the tar out of the cache, memory, and page file. My UD5 never really seems to get very hot, but I have noticed it can suffer from some pretty significant Vdroop at times... so hopefully I can get it dialed in and tuned as best as I can over the next week or two. But with all the issues of the 990FX that have been discussed on here, I'll keep pretty constant track of voltage usage and temps in HWinfo as I go through the process and share anything that seems unusual.


perhaps, yes...but, here I am posting from work again so I can't give you exactly what-all it's at, but there should be a post a few pages back with where I "left off". I know I'm at 3.99Ghz from a stock of 3.3, what's that, like 20%? I could give the RAM +.05v, I had it at 1.6v for a while but didn't SEEM like it was making a difference. So when I got the ram up to 1959 I cut the voltage kick back to stock and when that didn't (seem to) impact the 1959 I left it. Yes I'm pretty sure HTT is upped but I'm also pretty sure it's like a single tick up. VCore voltage is upped but has been trail&error-groomed for what maintined the 3.99 with least temp genorated so I'm not keen on changing that... good food for thought for sure....


----------



## mfalconer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> 1.) I've never heard/seen Samsung RAM well reviewed/rated anywhere. I'd start shopping around for something else.
> 2.) You didn't say what BIOS version you're running but based on your RAM issues I'm betting FA, DO THE FLASH to FC. I and another guy here had RAM issues that got WAY better after the BIOS flash. My CORSAIR Vengeance is rated at only 1600 and currently it's up to 1959, before the BIOS flash I was lucky to get 1600.
> If after the BIOS update you're still not seeing 16GB then LOSE the SAMSUNG. I reccomned G.SKILL Ripjaws Series or CORSAIR Vengeance, but whatever you get, make sure it's "high performance" or "gaming" (under "Recomended use") or look for "XMP (Extreme Memory Profile) Support"
> 3.) if you're planning to OC the CPU eventually and it sounds like you are, and you're still sitting on a stock OEM cpu cooler, then you need to get something a little better on the way as well. Spend not LESS than $25 on that. This is the one I got. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002G1YPH0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus)
> havn't installed it yet but I have no reason to doubt it will do the job.
> ANYWAY update the bios and see where ya stand.


Thank you man! I was able to solve the problem. I kept the Kingston ones, and a few weeks ago I got a CM 212 EVO and I was pushing it too hard when placing it on the motherboard. I saw in Tom's Hardware that maybe CPU pins were dirty or I've had to re-sit the CPU. I tried that and I was able to see finally 16gb everywhere in my computer. I've restarted kinda 10 times today, did a little overclock and everything keeps stable.

Now, I'm concerned regarding what you say of the BIOS. I've currently F9 BIOS (for 1.1 rev) however, what does FC mean or where do I get to try it?

Thank you very much!


----------



## miklkit

mfalconer: You have a rev 1 mobo and i believe the F10 bios is the latest for it. The FC bios is for the rev 3 mobos.

I got the Thermalright hr-o9u cooler and and am working out how to mount it. Its base is just a little too long so its adjustable mounts will not work. I am not going to use those plastic push pins but nuts and bolts, so probably metal washers will work.

Those rubber cones for a backstop for the VRMs got me looking around and there is this wire mesh box like an in/out box full of miscellaneous stuff sitting on this desk, and the glued on rubber feet keep falling off. So I placed on in another case next to the mobo standoffs and it looks to be just the right size.

Haven't got an email from Gigabyte since last week.


----------



## Rauli11

Hi guys, i have questions regarding temps of board and CPU (UD3 rev 1.2). OP says that TMPIN2 is NB temperature and TMPIN1 is CPU temp. But My test have shown that TMPIN2 highly depends on cpu freq/voltage and touchbios, made by gigabyte also reports the same temp as TMPIN2 as CPU temperature. For example: running a stress test, hwmonitor reports TMPIN1 56 C, TMPIN2 70 C and package 59 C. I am worried because touchbios reports that 70C is my CPU temp and in that case im in danger of damaging it so can any1 please tell me what is solution, which should i trust?


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfalconer*
> 
> Thank you man! I was able to solve the problem. I kept the Kingston ones, and a few weeks ago I got a CM 212 EVO and I was pushing it too hard when placing it on the motherboard. I saw in Tom's Hardware that maybe CPU pins were dirty or I've had to re-sit the CPU. I tried that and I was able to see finally 16gb everywhere in my computer. I've restarted kinda 10 times today, did a little overclock and everything keeps stable.
> 
> Now, I'm concerned regarding what you say of the BIOS. I've currently F9 BIOS (for 1.1 rev) however, what does FC mean or where do I get to try it?
> 
> Thank you very much!


yyyeah... what he said.... Miklkit has answered the bios question. I had a sneaking suspicion the BIOS updates for the rev 1.0 990FXA might be different than those for my Rev 3.0 (otherwise same board). Counterintutive as that may be. My bad. I should have checked before posting. Full credit AND THANKS to Miklkit for having the correct info on that.

Sooo you didn't say, what SPEED do now see the RAM running at? If it's at 1600 did you "push it" to get that or did it just pop up once you fixed the CPU-socket issue
I forget did you say that ram stock speed was 1600 or 1333?


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rauli11*
> 
> Hi guys, i have questions regarding temps of board and CPU (UD3 rev 1.2). OP says that TMPIN2 is NB temperature and TMPIN1 is CPU temp. But My test have shown that TMPIN2 highly depends on cpu freq/voltage and touchbios, made by gigabyte also reports the same temp as TMPIN2 as CPU temperature. For example: running a stress test, hwmonitor reports TMPIN1 56 C, TMPIN2 70 C and package 59 C. I am worried because touchbios reports that 70C is my CPU temp and in that case im in danger of damaging it so can any1 please tell me what is solution, which should i trust?


OK, after just stepping on my, er, bad self, I'm going to state up front my personal experience is, primarially "rev 3.0" related. That said, 70C on the CPU ON ANY REVISION of this board is too hot. It's well within spec for the CPU, the issue is 1.) board warping and 2.) if the CPU is that hot how hot is the on-board NB? A lot of guys here with revision 3.0 boards have had major issues with CPU throttling and boards warping at CPU temps over 68C. Personally I won't let mine go over 60C. As I understand it the rev 1.1 and 1.2's are a little better in this area, and somewhat less prone to warping.
By way of a specific suggestion, I'd ease back the OC on everything except maybe the ram, with special attention to VCORE voltage. *You want to drop that CPU temp by a full 10C*.

I'm assuming from the way you put it that these temps you're seeing are in the BIOS(?), or if in Windows, either way these are "at idle" temps correct?
IF so then 70C on the CPU is seriously too high. By the way, what is you CPU? 8 core or 6? I'm thinking 8.
LASTLY if you're still running a stock OEM CPU cooler you need to upgrade that.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rauli11*
> 
> Hi guys, i have questions regarding temps of board and CPU (UD3 rev 1.2). OP says that TMPIN2 is NB temperature and TMPIN1 is CPU temp. But My test have shown that TMPIN2 highly depends on cpu freq/voltage and touchbios, made by gigabyte also reports the same temp as TMPIN2 as CPU temperature. For example: running a stress test, hwmonitor reports TMPIN1 56 C, TMPIN2 70 C and package 59 C. I am worried because touchbios reports that 70C is my CPU temp and in that case im in danger of damaging it so can any1 please tell me what is solution, which should i trust?


If you're actually NOT currently Overclocked at all (you didn't say) then I guess that would pretty much answer the question about "stock" CPU cooler! No OC and 70C on the CPU FOR SURE you havn't upgraded your CPU HS&Fan. (Either that or it's "110-in-the-shade" there!)


----------



## hajnalka

EKWB water block is home suthbridge heatsink is not compatibile to revision 3.0 990fxa-ud3
two screws in VRM is not good fold the motherboard.


----------



## Hellsrage

Got a reply from Gigabyte, you can also see my reply.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Got a reply from Gigabyte, you can also see my reply.


that is just so not right. Man, file THAT USELESS answer under "thanks-for-nothing"!! I mean, He's effectively just telling you to bugger-off and feel free to take your future business elsewhere. Apparently you had annoyed him.... seriously sad stuff.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> 
> 
> EKWB water block is home suthbridge heatsink is not compatibile to revision 3.0 990fxa-ud3
> two screws in VRM is not good fold the motherboard.


GUESS I'm just old-school man but to this day I'm not comfortable purposely putting water INSIDE my computer.
The day I really need/want it faster than I can get it to go air-cooled I'll just buy a faster CPU and if required, mobo.


----------



## Fordox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> GUESS I'm just old-school man but to this day I'm not comfortable purposely putting water INSIDE my computer.
> The day I really need/want it faster than I can get it to go air-cooled I'll just buy a faster CPU and if required, mobo.


it isn't tapwater, it is de-ionized water which will not conduct electricity if it leaks out for a period of time (maybe an hour to a day before it starts picking up ions). so you need to check it from time to time. and if a loop is waterproof for about a week (i leak test it for 3 days with only the pump running), it will stay that for a long time.

the risc of watercooling isn't really there if you do it good. of course there will allways be a risc in it, but then you need to dry your components for a day or something. but when it runs, it runs.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fordox*
> 
> it isn't tapwater, it is de-ionized water which will not conduct electricity if it leaks out for a period of time (maybe an hour to a day before it starts picking up ions). so you need to check it from time to time. and if a loop is waterproof for about a week (i leak test it for 3 days with only the pump running), it will stay that for a long time.
> 
> the risc of watercooling isn't really there if you do it good. of course there will allways be a risc in it, but then you need to dry your components for a day or something. but when it runs, it runs.


RRRRReeeeally!??









Well I'll be dipped ! Learn something new everyday! Looks like it's "my bad" for the second time in one night....

Water that doesn't conduct electricity you say?? My goodness gracious!

Obviously that changes the picture significantly. Really I should have known, and, now that I think about it, waaaay back the recesses of my scotch-soaked brain that actually sounds kinda familure...

However, they're still kinda pricy and labor intensive to set up so between being cheap and lazy, I'm afrid it's still no sale.

BTW I appreciate your sparing me the (potential for) massive SARCASM in your response. Very civilized and classy of you.


----------



## FiatluX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Got a reply from Gigabyte, you can also see my reply.


Wow, that´s an arrogant answer!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Got a reply from Gigabyte, you can also see my reply.


This is typical really. I haven't heard a word back from them since the last one I posted up. They have shown they do not care or they believe if they ignore the problem it will go away. They are right about one thing. This boy right here will never ever give them another dime. Nor will any of my friends, family or customers if I have any say in the matter.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> that is just so not right. Man, file THAT USELESS answer under "thanks-for-nothing"!! I mean, He's effectively just telling you to bugger-off and feel free to take your future business elsewhere. Apparently you had annoyed him.... seriously sad stuff.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> Wow, that´s an arrogant answer!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> This is typical really. I haven't heard a word back from them since the last one I posted up. They have shown they do not care or they believe if they ignore the problem it will go away. They are right about one thing. This boy right here will never ever give them another dime. Nor will any of my friends, family or customers if I have any say in the matter.


Yeah that reply was rather disrespectful, I just don't even want to bother with their support anymore perhaps taking this matter up in a public place is better? Lets see if they have a Facebook.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Yeah that reply was rather disrespectful, I just don't even want to bother with their support anymore perhaps taking this matter up in a public place is better? Lets see if they have a Facebook.


They will probably just delete your posts. Its easier to delete it and pretend it never happened than it is to actually help.


----------



## Rauli11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> OK, after just stepping on my, er, bad self, I'm going to state up front my personal experience is, primarially "rev 3.0" related. That said, 70C on the CPU ON ANY REVISION of this board is too hot. It's well within spec for the CPU, the issue is 1.) board warping and 2.) if the CPU is that hot how hot is the on-board NB? A lot of guys here with revision 3.0 boards have had major issues with CPU throttling and boards warping at CPU temps over 68C. Personally I won't let mine go over 60C. As I understand it the rev 1.1 and 1.2's are a little better in this area, and somewhat less prone to warping.
> By way of a specific suggestion, I'd ease back the OC on everything except maybe the ram, with special attention to VCORE voltage. *You want to drop that CPU temp by a full 10C*.
> 
> I'm assuming from the way you put it that these temps you're seeing are in the BIOS(?), or if in Windows, either way these are "at idle" temps correct?
> IF so then 70C on the CPU is seriously too high. By the way, what is you CPU? 8 core or 6? I'm thinking 8.
> LASTLY if you're still running a stock OEM CPU cooler you need to upgrade that.


SO i need to clear some things out then:

1) CPU is OC to 4,5 ghz and ram to 1500mhz : http://valid.canardpc.com/2816765
2) Cooled by Corsair H70 push-pull, temperatures at LOAD IBT very high, both HWMONITOR and GIGABYTE Touchbios offical utility temps:

As you can see , HWMONITOR reports 71 C on TMPIN2, people on forum say it's board's NB temp, but the offical gigabyte utility (which accesses BIOS) says the 71C is CPu temp. So are my temps ok or not?


----------



## miklkit

I just got an email from Gigabyte asking for all of my computer specs. We shall see how this works out.









There seems to be some interest in the Thermalright HR-090U cooler. I am in the process of measuring and getting the parts. It still looks like number 4 nuts, bolts, and washers will do the trick to mount this cooler. The advantages of it are that it comes with 2mm thick thermal strips and it is nearly twice as tall as the stock cooler, which will put that heat pipe well into the wind tunnel between two 120mm fans spaced a little over 2"/50mm apart.
I also found some more hard rubber pads that are the right height to fit behind the motherboard. These are off an old gaming steering wheel and have glue on their back side already. One of these should work well as long as it doesn't melt.

EDIT: I would trust Hardware Monitor before Gigabyte's bios. My bios read the fans incorrectly every day. Is it throttling under load?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rauli11*
> 
> SO i need to clear some things out then:
> 
> 1) CPU is OC to 4,5 ghz and ram to 1500mhz : http://valid.canardpc.com/2816765
> 2) Cooled by Corsair H70 push-pull, temperatures at LOAD IBT very high, both HWMONITOR and GIGABYTE Touchbios offical utility temps:
> 
> As you can see , HWMONITOR reports 71 C on TMPIN2, people on forum say it's board's NB temp, but the offical gigabyte utility (which accesses BIOS) says the 71C is CPu temp. So are my temps ok or not?


That is very high even for NB temp.

I use HWINFO64 that works for me the best and gives the best temp reading of everything, it let u monitor the temps and even u can see how hot everything was when u were gaming.

Try HMINFO64 maybe it shows more accurate temp, post your temps back on here so we can see what is going on


----------



## Hits9Nine

Here is my 990FXA UD7, The EK waterblocks are great!


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rauli11*
> 
> SO i need to clear some things out then:
> 
> 1) CPU is OC to 4,5 ghz and ram to 1500mhz : http://valid.canardpc.com/2816765
> 2) Cooled by Corsair H70 push-pull, temperatures at LOAD IBT very high, both HWMONITOR and GIGABYTE Touchbios offical utility temps:
> 
> As you can see , HWMONITOR reports 71 C on TMPIN2, people on forum say it's board's NB temp, but the offical gigabyte utility (which accesses BIOS) says the 71C is CPu temp. So are my temps ok or not?


OK, here's my twocents... NB or CPU? I dunno, BUT either way, if those are temps under load then that's not too bad. If you had a Rev 3.0 I still say back it off a little. But like I said before I think the rev 1.1-1.2's are built a little better and haven't seemed as prone to warping. SO If you're not experiencing any throttling then you're probably ok. But that's no garontee you won't develop issues over time, especially if ambient temps become much warmer.
The CPU I'm pretty sure is fine at those temps or even +10C from that. It's the MB itself that may or may not be at risk.
You've got a 6100 pushed to 4.5, TO ME that's a big push from a stock speed of 3.3. But it was interesting for me to see your voltages and mutiplier, I've GOT a 6100 myself, I'm still running with a stock CPU Cooler so for now I'm stopped at 3.99Ghz, once I install the after market cooler I'll see about nudging it a little higher. I won't let mine run up over 60C but I have a REV 3.
You'd be probably be better served talking to someone else here, someone with a 6100 and a REV 1.02 board. And who has had some experience running it up that far. But I don't know if we have anyone who fits that description.

Hey OZZ , what's your take on this question?


----------



## ganon551

Hi guys !

I'm new on this forum, and actually I registered because I have some troubles with my 990FXA-UD3, and I thought maybe you have a solution.

So here's the problem :

I recently bought a 990XA-UD3. I put a 8350 on it, with corsair xms 3 2000Mhz. I started overclock my cpu, as I always do.
So I put all the options like C6 state, etc, on disable, enable the HPC mode, start with 4.4Ghz and reboot.

First problem : My computer is doing a double boot. E.g when I push the button to boot, or when I restart from windows/bios, the com^puter first shutdown, then restart and do ok. On another forum they told me that this is a protection from the motherboard when cpu is overclocked.

Ok nice mobo.

So I continued my overclocking, and I saw my vCore moving a lot during OCCT. Like 1.39v idle to 1.44v. So I said "ok I'm just going to lower the LLC". And that's what I did. But even with a regular value, still 1.44v in load. Than I thought that my mobo was not doing ok, and I sent it back, to take a 990fxa-ud3.

And now I'm having exactly the same troubles, double boot, and LLC which doesn't want to let my vCore alone. Right now I'm at "medium" LLC value, +0.025vcore for 4.52Ghz, and in OCCT the vCore is going from 1.42 to 1.45. Then always moving from 1.452 to 1.44v.

So, do you guys have a trick to make my vCore goes straight ?

My bios is up to date (FC), my mobo is a rev3.0, my power supply is a corsair AX750 which has 1 year, and was perfect on my phenom.

By the way, sorry for my english, I'm french









Thank you


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> That is very high even for NB temp.
> 
> I use HWINFO64 that works for me the best and gives the best temp reading of everything, it let u monitor the temps and even u can see how hot everything was when u were gaming.
> 
> Try HMINFO64 maybe it shows more accurate temp, post your temps back on here so we can see what is going on


Thanks Hurricane! Clearly I was heading into water about to be over my head!

Rauli,
if he thinks it's that high, I'm inclined to agree. I'm going to resind my "probably OK" and replace it with "back that CPU down to at least 4.3Ghz. VCORE to about 1.45v or less".
If you want to run that CPU at 4.5 you might want to look in to water cooling.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganon551*
> 
> Hi guys !
> 
> I'm new on this forum, and actually I registered because I have some troubles with my 990FXA-UD3, and I thought maybe you have a solution.
> 
> So here's the problem :
> 
> I recently bought a 990XA-UD3. I put a 8350 on it, with corsair xms 3 2000Mhz. I started overclock my cpu, as I always do.
> So I put all the options like C6 state, etc, on disable, enable the HPC mode, start with 4.4Ghz and reboot.
> 
> First problem : My computer is doing a double boot. E.g when I push the button to boot, or when I restart from windows/bios, the com^puter first shutdown, then restart and do ok. On another forum they told me that this is a protection from the motherboard when cpu is overclocked.
> 
> Ok nice mobo.
> 
> So I continued my overclocking, and I saw my vCore moving a lot during OCCT. Like 1.39v idle to 1.44v. So I said "ok I'm just going to lower the LLC". And that's what I did. But even with a regular value, still 1.44v in load. Than I thought that my mobo was not doing ok, and I sent it back, to take a 990fxa-ud3.
> 
> And now I'm having exactly the same troubles, double boot, and LLC which doesn't want to let my vCore alone. Right now I'm at "medium" LLC value, +0.025vcore for 4.52Ghz, and in OCCT the vCore is going from 1.42 to 1.45. Then always moving from 1.452 to 1.44v.
> 
> So, do you guys have a trick to make my vCore goes straight ?
> 
> My bios is up to date (FC), my mobo is a rev3.0, my power supply is a corsair AX750 which has 1 year, and was perfect on my phenom.
> 
> By the way, sorry for my english, I'm french
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you


Welcome to hell. To sum it up the UD3 board cannot handle an FX-8350 if you can take it back and buy a different board I fully recommend doing so, I know that may not sound appealing but trust me a lot of us have this board paired with an FX-8350 and have had a mound of issues with it, it's just a crappy board. The fact it has so many positive reviews astounds me.

There are no solutions for the double boot it's an extreme annoyance but you can't do much about it besides not overclocking.


----------



## ganon551

Erf.

Thank you for this quick reply








The problem is that I already turn my 990XA back to take this one, and I have to pay for the shipping every time I do that :/ + the ud5 is 150€, and for a little more I could have a sabertooth which is much more great I think.

Well I think for now I will keep this one, try to reach the 4.6ghz, which is actually enough for my use









Thank you again !


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> OK, here's my twocents... NB or CPU? I dunno, BUT either way, if those are temps under load then that's not too bad. If you had a Rev 3.0 I still say back it off a little. But like I said before I think the rev 1.1-1.2's are built a little better and haven't seemed as prone to warping. SO If you're not experiencing any throttling then you're probably ok. But that's no garontee you won't develop issues over time, especially if ambient temps become much warmer.
> The CPU I'm pretty sure is fine at those temps or even +10C from that. It's the MB itself that may or may not be at risk.
> You've got a 6100 pushed to 4.5, TO ME that's a big push from a stock speed of 3.3. But it was interesting for me to see your voltages and mutiplier, I've GOT a 6100 myself, I'm still running with a stock CPU Cooler so for now I'm stopped at 3.99Ghz, once I install the after market cooler I'll see about nudging it a little higher. I won't let mine run up over 60C but I have a REV 3.
> You'd be probably be better served talking to someone else here, someone with a 6100 and a REV 1.02 board. And who has had some experience running it up that far. But I don't know if we have anyone who fits that description.
> 
> Hey OZZ , what's your take on this question?


It's weird man. This board just cannot give consistent temp readings for anyone. I honestly don't know what to think anymore. I don't trust the temps that my board reports because of all this nonsense. According the Gigabyte TMPIN2 is the NB but as you can see even their own reporting software claims its CPU. Its a damn mess honestly.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganon551*
> 
> Hi guys !
> 
> I'm new on this forum, and actually I registered because I have some troubles with my 990FXA-UD3, and I thought maybe you have a solution.
> 
> So here's the problem :
> 
> I recently bought a 990XA-UD3. I put a 8350 on it, with corsair xms 3 2000Mhz. I started overclock my cpu, as I always do.
> So I put all the options like C6 state, etc, on disable, enable the HPC mode, start with 4.4Ghz and reboot.
> 
> First problem : My computer is doing a double boot. E.g when I push the button to boot, or when I restart from windows/bios, the com^puter first shutdown, then restart and do ok. On another forum they told me that this is a protection from the motherboard when cpu is overclocked.
> 
> Ok nice mobo.
> 
> So I continued my overclocking, and I saw my vCore moving a lot during OCCT. Like 1.39v idle to 1.44v. So I said "ok I'm just going to lower the LLC". And that's what I did. But even with a regular value, still 1.44v in load. Than I thought that my mobo was not doing ok, and I sent it back, to take a 990fxa-ud3.
> 
> And now I'm having exactly the same troubles, double boot, and LLC which doesn't want to let my vCore alone. Right now I'm at "medium" LLC value, +0.025vcore for 4.52Ghz, and in OCCT the vCore is going from 1.42 to 1.45. Then always moving from 1.452 to 1.44v.
> 
> So, do you guys have a trick to make my vCore goes straight ?
> 
> My bios is up to date (FC), my mobo is a rev3.0, my power supply is a corsair AX750 which has 1 year, and was perfect on my phenom.
> 
> By the way, sorry for my english, I'm french
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you


Yeah the double boot is "normal" when you have the CPU multiplier changed from anything but AUTO. I am doing a bus overclock to avoid this because the power cycling cannot be good for mechanical hard drives...

As for your voltages, my board does that as well. It doesn't matter what LLC its set on. I observe the same voltage changes no matter what. I see you have the REV 3 board. All I can say man is you ain't seen nothing yet. I recommend you pull the VRM heatsink off and make sure it is contacting all the VRM chips. Then I recommend bolting it down instead of using those plastic pins. Then put a fan directly on top of the VRM heatsink. You will have VRM thottling otherwise.

I agree with Hellsrage. Get rid of it if you still can. You are about to go down a long horrible road of frustration.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganon551*
> 
> Erf.
> 
> Thank you for this quick reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The problem is that I already turn my 990XA back to take this one, and I have to pay for the shipping every time I do that :/ + the ud5 is 150€, and for a little more I could have a sabertooth which is much more great I think.
> 
> Well I think for now I will keep this one, try to reach the 4.6ghz, which is actually enough for my use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you again !


Sorry to hear that, you should be able to reach 4.6 as long as you have good cooling, the problem will be throttling. I don't know what you're using your PC for but if it's just every day things and gaming you should be fine but any program that gets to 100% load will most likely cause the voltage to throttle which in turn will lower your CPU clock this can be countered buy putting a fan on top of the VRM heat sink, if you read some of the previous pages other members such as Ozzy have made post of them doing so with positive results.

The setup done by Ozzy: http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5190#post_19899599

It may also be worth a look into aftermarket coolers for the VRMs. I'm stuck with the board too for now gotta wait for a little opening to spend money and I'll be grabbing a new board.

Good luck with the overclocking!


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> 
> 
> EKWB water block is home suthbridge heatsink is not compatibile to revision 3.0 990fxa-ud3
> two screws in VRM is not good fold the motherboard.


what is this water block left-handed to the vrm water block with the vrm water block on top? The cubic thing between the pci-e slot and the vrm water block is the southbridge water block?


----------



## Hellsrage

Well, Gigabyte support replied again.


Some how I get the feeling they will not upgrade my board since we all know another UD3 board isn't gonna solve anything.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Thanks Hurricane! Clearly I was heading into water about to be over my head!
> 
> Rauli,
> if he thinks it's that high, I'm inclined to agree. I'm going to resind my "probably OK" and replace it with "back that CPU down to at least 4.3Ghz. VCORE to about 1.45v or less".
> If you want to run that CPU at 4.5 you might want to look in to water cooling.


Your welcome dude!









Also according to temperatures,

Temp sensors are on the FX chip themselves and it is actually not the board but the chip that send the information.

Also when i am at idle and the ambient temp is low in my room the lowest i get was 7,5c, obviously that is not correct and has nothing to do with the board but with the chip itself.

In my experience anything below 20c is not correct, idle temps are never correct so the load temperature u should look at and not the idle temp because it can be never below 20c unless u are living in the arctic LOL


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> what is this water block left-handed to the vrm water block with the vrm water block on top? The cubic thing between the pci-e slot and the vrm water block is the southbridge water block?


If I'm understanding you right that would be northbridge.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

-Disregard-

(errored dupe, my bad)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganon551*
> 
> Hi guys !
> 
> I'm new on this forum, and actually I registered because I have some troubles with my 990FXA-UD3, and I thought maybe you have a solution.
> 
> So here's the problem :
> 
> I recently bought a 990XA-UD3. I put a 8350 on it, with corsair xms 3 2000Mhz. I started overclock my cpu, as I always do.
> So I put all the options like C6 state, etc, on disable, enable the HPC mode, start with 4.4Ghz and reboot.
> 
> First problem : My computer is doing a double boot. E.g when I push the button to boot, or when I restart from windows/bios, the com^puter first shutdown, then restart and do ok. On another forum they told me that this is a protection from the motherboard when cpu is overclocked.
> 
> Ok nice mobo.
> 
> So I continued my overclocking, and I saw my vCore moving a lot during OCCT. Like 1.39v idle to 1.44v. So I said "ok I'm just going to lower the LLC". And that's what I did. But even with a regular value, still 1.44v in load. Than I thought that my mobo was not doing ok, and I sent it back, to take a 990fxa-ud3.
> 
> And now I'm having exactly the same troubles, double boot, and LLC which doesn't want to let my vCore alone. Right now I'm at "medium" LLC value, +0.025vcore for 4.52Ghz, and in OCCT the vCore is going from 1.42 to 1.45. Then always moving from 1.452 to 1.44v.
> 
> So, do you guys have a trick to make my vCore goes straight ?
> 
> My bios is up to date (FC), my mobo is a rev3.0, my power supply is a corsair AX750 which has 1 year, and was perfect on my phenom.
> 
> By the way, sorry for my english, I'm french
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you


I'm a 6-core owner here and sure the 8-core guys will have a little more detailed, specific suggestions for you. BUT FOR NOW
I'm going to say, if it's misbehaving that badly, put everything back to "Optimized Defaults" for now. (AS IN RIGHT NOW!)
You want to make sure nothing has been damaged already and that you can still run perfect, nice and solid-stable at stock-everything. If it's still good at stock you can start easing it back up in baby-steps.

Also, before you start "easing it back up" I'd strongly reccomend reviewing closely the last 35-40 pages on this board. If you have an 8core with this mobo, Rev 3.0 there is ton of stuff you need to know before you start OC'n your rig. It's all there. 40 pages might seem like a lot but there's a lotta pictures and re-quoting of posts so it really won't take that long.
And I'm gonna let the 8-core bad-boys take it from here.

Good Luck


----------



## hajnalka

Yes two block

First is VRM block voltage regulation

and South bridge chipset

North bridge chipset use original heatshink water block is not passed this hole (themperature is low)

Water block is 990-fxa -UD3 Rev1

My board is 990 fxa UD3 Rev3

My new problem is two screws holding VRM block bent motherboard.

four cip left and four chip right is covered good.
Other chip is not good pressure on heat pad in VRM water block.

See picture


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

OT:
sorry guys. If I'd seen the responses to Gannon I wouldn't have piped up.
I see a post that wasn't there the last time I looked and I figure the page has refreshed! Then I respond to it and my post is a page and a half later! I just have to start tripple checking the page has refreshed before I assume no one esle has responded yet.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

ODDLY mine never did that double post thing when I OC'd. It did it when I flashed the bios.
But if OC'd in a way it didn't like it just flat out refused to post and showed me the post/boot failure screen and waited for me to make choice. (re-boot/load-optimized defaults/or enter BIOS)

Maybe I should say, "never has yet".....


----------



## miklkit

gannon551: I have the same setup as you with the same +0.025 overvolt and 4.52 overclock and see the same voltage fluctuations under load. It is designed this way. If it is stable with no errors when stress testing do not worry about it.
What you really need to worry about are the temperatures of the VRMs. If they get too hot they WILL warp the board and that is when things get ugly. The VRMs are under the heat sink between the CPU and the rear panel. They at least need a fan blowing on them and probably an aftermarket cooler too. I am $50 USD into aftermarket parts for my board, which would have been enough to buy a good board instead.

If you can get rid of it do it. If not, watch your temperatures closely and never ever let ANY temperature go over 60C.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> gannon551: I have the same setup as you with the same +0.025 overvolt and 4.52 overclock and see the same voltage fluctuations under load. It is designed this way. If it is stable with no errors when stress testing do not worry about it.
> What you really need to worry about are the temperatures of the VRMs. If they get too hot they WILL warp the board and that is when things get ugly. The VRMs are under the heat sink between the CPU and the rear panel. They at least need a fan blowing on them and probably an aftermarket cooler too. I am $50 USD into aftermarket parts for my board, which would have been enough to buy a good board instead.
> 
> If you can get rid of it do it. If not, watch your temperatures closely and never ever let ANY temperature go over 60C.


Same except for the CPU. To get that same 4.5Ghz OC his 95w 6100 is reaching all the way from a stock of 3.3Ghz, vs your (125w) 8-core is only pushed from the stock of 4.0. Relatively speaking he's looking at much more agressive OC, which is why he's seeing something top out at 70C (IMO) and I believe it's been reasonably established on this board, the 8cores and the 6cores respond differently in terms of of TEMPS to OC. My guess is if you were to push yours to say 4.85Ghz (a proportionally equivilent OC) you'd be seeing in excess of 70C. Just a guess.

But you are dead on about the 70C vs 60C. REGARDLESS of processor, he wants to keep ALL TEMPS under 60C by WHATEVER means necessary. Better cooling or lower the OC, whatever works.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Not true at all. Yes his over clock is more aggressive percentage wise but the 8 core has more heat to dissipate due to having two more cores. If voltage and frequency were the same you would still need more cooler for the 8 core.


----------



## ganon551

Thank you all for replies









So I tried to set my multiplicator on auto, and to increase my bus, but it's still the same : Double boot troubles :/

Which means I have no choice but keep my computer like this. My DD is a SSD, so that's ok for mechanical stuff.

My temps on OCCT are going to 50°C maximum. I have two fans on my CPU heatsink, one blowing in and one blowing out, so my VRM are hidden by the fan, plus the fan that is blowing air out of my case.

Actually my case is opened because my Mugen 2 rev.b is to high, so I think it has a great effect on temps


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Welcome to hell. To sum it up the UD3 board cannot handle an FX-8350 if you can take it back and buy a different board I fully recommend doing so, I know that may not sound appealing but trust me a lot of us have this board paired with an FX-8350 and have had a mound of issues with it, it's just a crappy board. The fact it has so many positive reviews astounds me.
> 
> There are no solutions for the double boot it's an extreme annoyance but you can't do much about it besides not overclocking.


honestly i have no idea where this is coming from. The ud3 does just fine running the 8XXX series chips. Well at least rev 1.0, and 1.1. So i believe it to be a rev 3.0 isssue.

Maybe I'm lucky but i'm running a 8320 @ 5ghz on my ud3 rev 1.0


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> honestly i have no idea where this is coming from. The ud3 does just fine running the 8XXX series chips. Well at least rev 1.0, and 1.1. So i believe it to be a rev 3.0 isssue.
> 
> Maybe I'm lucky but i'm running a 8320 @ 5ghz on my ud3 rev 1.0


You must be or you have very good cooling, I've heard from others on different forums that these issues have been reported on all revisions.


----------



## ganon551

YEah a guy on a french forum as the same mobo/cpu than me, but his mobo is a rev1.0, and no double boot problem.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Not true at all. Yes his over clock is more aggressive percentage wise but the 8 core has more heat to dissipate due to having two more cores. If voltage and frequency were the same you would still need more cooler for the 8 core.


?? At the risk of starting a pissing contest with the last guy I would want to do that with... I'm confused.
What I thought I intended to say was on a "proportional basis" on (UD3 Rev3) a 40% OC with an 8core will genorate proportionally MORE heat than a 6core under the same roughly proportional 40% OC. Not true?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> ?? At the risk of starting a pissing contest with the last guy I would want to do that with... I'm confused.
> What I thought I intended to say was on a "proportional basis" on (UD3 Rev3) a 40% OC with an 8core will genorate proportionally MORE heat than a 6core under the same roughly proportional 40% OC. Not true?


of course u get more heat with 8 core than 6 core.

It is not only the 2 cores but the whole architecture is different as well so it generates a lot more heat.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

OT: I'm actually kinda holding my breath to find out if that "P-word" counts as "profanity" here. I've been bit twice now. the last time i replaced the ENTIRE WORD with asterisks. "in context" apparently the asterisks counted.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> of course u get more heat with 8 core than 6 core.
> 
> It is not only the 2 cores but the whole architecture is different as well so it generates a lot more heat.


architecture is the same on the FX chips. All the chips are the same die. So even your fx4100 (example) has the same die as a 8150 etc.

and yes 8xxxx>6xxxx>4xxxx in terms of heat output, though the difference is not really that large, because they do all share the same die.
Quote:


> You must be or you have very good cooling, I've heard from others on different forums that these issues have been reported on all revisions.


I have 520mm worth of radiator. I haven't had any throttling issues since the board actually came out and was on f5 bios with my old 8120. (it would throttle unless you opened Amd overdrive and enabled turbo core and disabled it again), it was fixed in later bios.

Overall I think if you look back before the revision 3.0 posts were made, most folks were quite happy with the UD3.


----------



## KnownDragon

NO CUSSING IN QBERT. lol

This is what I will say. I have had the 1055t on this board overclocked with a 620. Then swapped over to the 965 Black edition. Temps with 6 core 16c temps with 4 core 28c and on my sig rig I have a 8320 on a asrock x4 that runs 7c. So the number of cores have nothing to say about if you have more cores it will have more heat or be cooler. These are at idle overclock temps. Just keep that in mind games. Nothing wrong with a heated debate or we still might be at a stone wheel.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> of course u get more heat with 8 core than 6 core.
> 
> It is not only the 2 cores but the whole architecture is different as well so it generates a lot more heat.


ABSOLUTLY correct. To those of us who have been here for the last 30-40 pages or so, it is a blazingly (no pun intended), obvious point at this, ... at this point. Agreed.

My original response to mitlkit's post claiming he had the same set-up as Gannon, when what he probably meant to say was _*the same OC-set-up*_, which is probably all I should have said. Instead I went on (and on) in a tone that could have been precived as a little patronizing and for that should and DO apoligize, to all, and specifically Mitlkit.

I'm close to if not the LAST person here who has any right to sound like their poo-don't stink. I consider myself privledged to be taken even remotely seriously here.

Considering the relatively useless of Gibabyte "tech"-"support" this thread is pricless.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> architecture is the same on the FX chips. All the chips are the same die. So even your fx4100 (example) has the same die as a 8150 etc.
> 
> and yes 8xxxx>6xxxx>4xxxx in terms of heat output, though the difference is not really that large, because they do all share the same die.
> I have 520mm worth of radiator. I haven't had any throttling issues since the board actually came out and was on f5 bios with my old 8120. (it would throttle unless you opened Amd overdrive and enabled turbo core and disabled it again), it was fixed in later bios.
> 
> Overall I think if you look back before the revision 3.0 posts were made, most folks were quite happy with the UD3.


ok, I'll admit THAT's edging up on being a bit over my head, I just know, for whatever precise technical reason the 8-cores seem to get away with LESS (proportionally) of an overclock than does my 6 core before getting in to trouble temps-wise.
Now, exactly HOW MUCH of a difference there is in that area, is still reasonably up for debate. IMHO. (emphasis on the humble)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> of course u get more heat with 8 core than 6 core.
> 
> It is not only the 2 cores but the whole architecture is different as well so it generates a lot more heat.


95W vs 125W alone says a lot to me.

OT: I probably should look into utlizing that Multi-quote thing.....


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> architecture is the same on the FX chips. All the chips are the same die. So even your fx4100 (example) has the same die as a 8150 etc.
> 
> and yes 8xxxx>6xxxx>4xxxx in terms of heat output, though the difference is not really that large, because they do all share the same die.
> I have 520mm worth of radiator. I haven't had any throttling issues since the board actually came out and was on f5 bios with my old 8120. (it would throttle unless you opened Amd overdrive and enabled turbo core and disabled it again), it was fixed in later bios.
> 
> Overall I think if you look back before the revision 3.0 posts were made, most folks were quite happy with the UD3.


i am afraid that is not true because i have the 8350 and it is called VISHERA and the others are BULLDOZER and there is a big difference.

So they are absolutely not the same, they do not give the other chips a different name for no reason









if they were the same you could buy an 8150 instead of the 8350 because they are the same witch they are not.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> NO CUSSING IN QBERT. lol
> 
> This is what I will say. I have had the 1055t on this board overclocked with a 620. Then swapped over to the 965 Black edition. Temps with 6 core 16c temps with 4 core 28c and on my sig rig I have a 8320 on a asrock x4 that runs 7c. So the number of cores have nothing to say about if you have more cores it will have more heat or be cooler. These are at idle overclock temps. Just keep that in mind games. Nothing wrong with a heated debate or we still might be at a stone wheel.


Someone here, (who as I recall kinda sounded like they knew what they were talking about), recently made the point that "at idle" temps are not to be taken too, if at all seriously. That they are all but useless information.


----------



## hurricane28

Yes they are not accurate at all,

Like i said before my temps today were 16c at idle LOL that can never happen because my room temperature is 23c.

It can never be such a big difference in room and CPU temp because it is the same hot air u are pushing through the rad or heat sink


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> i am afraid that is not true because i have the 8350 and it is called VISHERA and the others are BULLDOZER and there is a big difference.
> 
> So they are absolutely not the same, they do not give the other chips a different name for no reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if they were the same you could buy an 8150 instead of the 8350 because they are the same witch they are not.


umm you fail at life?

The architecture of the 8150 and the 8350 are the same, they are just different MODELS. The 8350 is a newer and better revision of the 8150, but it still has the same BASE architecture. Besides I was not comparing the Piledriver (vishera) to Bulldozer(Zambezi) I stated that the FX 4100 shares the same die as the 8150.
Quote:


> O CUSSING IN QBERT. lol
> 
> This is what I will say. I have had the 1055t on this board overclocked with a 620. Then swapped over to the 965 Black edition. Temps with 6 core 16c temps with 4 core 28c and on my sig rig I have a 8320 on a asrock x4 that runs 7c. So the number of cores have nothing to say about if you have more cores it will have more heat or be cooler. These are at idle overclock temps. Just keep that in mind games. Nothing wrong with a heated debate or we still might be at a stone wheel.


your comparing different generations of chips on different processes. The number of cores does effect the amount of heat generated but only if your making a direct comparison to cpus of the same generation.

Idle temps like the guy above me said don't really hold merit on AMD cpus, because the temperature is calculated instead of read. This temperature calculation is only accurate under load.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ganon551*
> 
> Thank you all for replies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried to set my multiplicator on auto, and to increase my bus, but it's still the same : Double boot troubles :/
> 
> Which means I have no choice but keep my computer like this. My DD is a SSD, so that's ok for mechanical stuff.
> 
> My temps on OCCT are going to 50°C maximum. I have two fans on my CPU heatsink, one blowing in and one blowing out, so my VRM are hidden by the fan, plus the fan that is blowing air out of my case.
> 
> Actually my case is opened because my Mugen 2 rev.b is to high, so I think it has a great effect on temps


OK I've looked. rerfreshed and refreshed again so unless some else is typing as I write this no one has already said this so here I go:

Gannon, ok, temps are now well within the safety zone so that's a good start. NOW To find out if you can make the double-post thing go away, or if you in fact have perment damage (which I doubt so far) you need to set the ENTIRE BIOS back to "Optimized Default" not just CPU mulitplier to auto. No OC on anything, not even the RAM (no XMP). Optimized Defaults accross the board. That _*should*_ cure your double boot... I say should because my set up has in fact never had the issue so I personally have never had to cure it, but then I personally have been a lot less aggressive in my OC'ing than most too so..... anyway....
Assuming that cures your double post/boot thing you can then start, one thing at a time start easing it back up in baby steps until you see it misbehave then you can tweak it back to the last setting that was stable.
By one thing at a time I mean RAM then "system"(everything else). I personally found joy (when pushing the CPU multiplier) to do VCORE voltage, HTT, NB and Bus speed, all together, each in the smallest increment alowed, except Vcore voltage the allowed increments are small enough that you can go 1 or 2 ticks up from stock ON the 1st-go anyway. On subsequent go-rounds no more than 1 tick (or I believe +0.025v) (or is it +0.005v per tap?)

Quick correction, "Optimized Defaults" turns on "turbo", "cool & quiet" and I believe the "C41"(something like that) mode/option. ALL the stuff that looks good intuitively, that they tell you to TURN OFF if you're going to OC. If by any slim chance "Optimized Defaults fails to cure the double-post, go back in disable all those things "they" reccomend turning off before starting an OC. AND IF you're STILL double posting....
then... really not cool. You could well have damage. At that stage I'd start reseating/testing ram, try a different video card, stuff like that...


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> ok, I'll admit THAT's edging up on being a bit over my head, I just know, for whatever precise technical reason the 8-cores seem to get away with LESS (proportionally) of an overclock than does my 6 core before getting in to trouble temps-wise.
> Now, exactly HOW MUCH of a difference there is in that area, is still reasonably up for debate. IMHO. (emphasis on the humble)


I wouldn't say that man.. I've had my 8120 up to 4.6... I just don't like it there because I shut er down when she hits 60C... which it does after about 10-15 minutes of full load stress testing. Real-world use at the 4.6 it never climbed above 52C... The best 24/7 stable that I've had with good temp control was still 4.2. So for the 8120 4.6 and 4.2 are clocks of 150% and 135% of stock respectively. It all depends on whether you get lucky and hit chip lotto or not. I'm thinking with some patience, a boatload of trial and error, and a bumped up cooling setup, I could probably hit 5+ with my 8120... I seem to have lucked out and gotten a pretty strong one.


----------



## miklkit

Yeah, the meaning of my post was that I am running the same overclock. The multiplier is at 22.5 and the vcore voltage is +0.025. That gives me a stable 4.5ghz with max temps of 56C, unless I run OCCT small data set which only takes a minute to hit the 65C redline. Or it used to. Now it throttles at 59C. I know the board is warped and I also need a better CPU HSF.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> umm you fail at life?
> 
> That kind of tone is not allowed here, you should know that by now.
> 
> The base is the same yes but there it stops so they are NOT the same.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> umm you fail at life?
> 
> That kind of tone is not allowed here, you should know that by now.
> 
> The base is the same yes but there it stops so they are NOT the same.
> 
> 
> 
> yeah that seemed a little unnecessarially harsh to me too.
Click to expand...


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I wouldn't say that man.. I've had my 8120 up to 4.6... I just don't like it there because I shut er down when she hits 60C... which it does after about 10-15 minutes of full load stress testing. Real-world use at the 4.6 it never climbed above 52C... The best 24/7 stable that I've had with good temp control was still 4.2. So for the 8120 4.6 and 4.2 are clocks of 150% and 135% of stock respectively. It all depends on whether you get lucky and hit chip lotto or not. I'm thinking with some patience, a boatload of trial and error, and a bumped up cooling setup, I could probably hit 5+ with my 8120... I seem to have lucked out and gotten a pretty strong one.


"Chip Lotto" ? hmmm. interesting thought... I've had this saying for years, "I bet but I never gamble" applied to OC'ing, I'd say I when it comes to facing the prospect of RMAing $350 worth of hardware back through the APO (mail-only-no-UPS) system I make every effort NOT to play the Lotto.








I wouldn't hesitate to go straight stock if it came to that. I know those are almost dirty words around here.....

but getting back to what I was saying and KINDA what you seemed to also be "supporting" in the end the actual difference of how much you can "get away with" with a 6core vs an 8core might be very little. But I'm pretty comfortable it ain't nothin' !


----------



## sabinus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> How are you guys controlling PWM fans? I can't get speedfan to work nor the gigabyte utility...


In BIOS it is an option to set the Fan Controlling Mode or something. It has 2 options: "Control by PWM" if your fan has PWM (4 threads) or "Control by Voltage" if you have classic 3 thread fans.
Either way, you have to go to Gigabyte Easytune 6 --> Smart --> CPU Fan / Fan1 etc. There you should play with the two "balls" and press "Set". Then go to HW Monitor Tab --> Fan/Temp and watch for the Fan RPM's.
Have fun.. I didn't







... because is so damn awkward. But I slowly get used to crappy GB programming


----------



## hurricane28

the best way in my opinion is get fan controller,

I have 4 fans controlled by it and it has great esthetics as well to the build.

My fan controller also gives a sign when the fan is not working anymore, it has temperature sensors as well so i can monitor my temps in the case so when something runs hot i can see where the problem is and if so fix it.

Also i find it kinda need to adjust the fans by a button on the fan controller


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sabinus*
> 
> In BIOS it is an option to set the Fan Controlling Mode or something. It has 2 options: "Control by PWM" if your fan has PWM (4 threads) or "Control by Voltage" if you have classic 3 thread fans.
> Either way, you have to go to Gigabyte Easytune 6 --> Smart --> CPU Fan / Fan1 etc. There you should play with the two "balls" and press "Set". Then go to HW Monitor Tab --> Fan/Temp and watch for the Fan RPM's.
> Have fun.. I didn't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... because is so damn awkward. But I slowly get used to crappy GB programming


I'm not. Only one of my 3 case fans (plus the CPU Cooler) are attched to the mobo and so at the mercy of BIOS control working correctly. The two other main case fans, (the 120s)
are attached to fan headers provided by the case, the only control on them is a dial, on the case which, needless to say, I just leave on full. Even on full blast they're almost inaudible so what do I care?. I'm no longer DL'ing tons of huge AVI's so the computer is never left on 24/7, or for the most part, unless I'm sitting in front of it.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> ?? At the risk of starting a pissing contest with the last guy I would want to do that with... I'm confused.
> What I thought I intended to say was on a "proportional basis" on (UD3 Rev3) a 40% OC with an 8core will genorate proportionally MORE heat than a 6core under the same roughly proportional 40% OC. Not true?


I might have misunderstood what you were saying. No worries.


----------



## KnownDragon

Round of drinks for the club


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I might have misunderstood what you were saying. No worries.


None here! Thanks man.
AND I _*probably should work on*_ being a little more concise. Sometimes in being a bit too long-winded reasonable people can loose my DRIFT!








(indeed!)


----------



## miklkit

It's alive!!









I finally got that Thermalright HR-09U Type 2 VRM heat sink installed and running. I used 2 number 4 bolts with nylock nuts and some number 4 and #6 washers.
I also put a rubber foot between the motherboard and the case. Because this case has a huge hole for access to the CPU back there I could not exactly center it on the VRMs, but it is close.
All I have done so far is run OCCT medium data set for a few minutes to see where it stabilizes at and it looks to be 10C lower than before on TMPIN2 and the CPU package!








I took some pictures with a camera I don't know how to use. If they are useable I will post them.

Now it's party time!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> None here! Thanks man.
> AND I _*probably should work on*_ being a little more concise. Sometimes in being a bit too long-winded reasonable people can loose my DRIFT!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (indeed!)


well haven't we all mate









I lost my temper quite a view times on here LOL

I like to discuss in a normal and civil manor but i cant stand kids who are 18yo and act like they know it all and brag about their stuff -_-

mostly i discovered things myself because what another get is not always realistic because all hardware is different and that can sometimes explain the drift that people have on here, including me


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> well haven't we all mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I lost my temper quite a view times on here LOL
> 
> I like to discuss in a normal and civil manor but i cant stand kids who are 18yo and act like they know it all and brag about their stuff -_-
> 
> mostly i discovered things myself because what another get is not always realistic because all hardware is different and that can sometimes explain the drift that people have on here, including me


OT: I havn't exactly lost my temper yet, it takes a lot for me to, well, lets just say I make a point not to LET myself get mad if at all possible places like this where I consider myself basically a guest. I've been a little frustrated a few times trying to express myself like an adult talking to other adults, (if you get my DRIFT). And that specifically has resulted in some overly sarcastic retorts which just end up being confusing and/or misunderstood by you guys since you all weren't privy to the "light-up" (of my fuse) But so far no one _*on*_ this board has come close pushing my buttons. sure you can kinda tell after awhile (or sometimes instantly) who the kids are and who's probaly an old goat. (being the latter I get to say that!) but it's all good. So far everyone's been pretty classy/well mannered. nuff said.

anyway,
Hurricane, thanks for your support!


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

So once again it comes down to the question I face every year come early June... having already dialed my OC back to 3.6 to counteract the rising ambient temps in the house (today it was around 88 here, 30C for our friends abroad)... Even though I want to do a new build this winter, I'm still considering upgrading my current tower... at least by putting in a small water loop. My AZZA tower can support a 360mm rad if I gut the top cage area of the tower... and I'm thinking that while it might be overkill, I'll almost certainly be able to make use of a 360mm rad on my next build, so already having the CPU block, rad, pump, reservoir, and some of the tubing is going to cut down costs down the road. Or instead of the $500 or so a loop would cost (might as well include my GPU right, lol) I could always make the step up to a AIO 240mm loop... most of which are notorious for their high resistance, and weak pumps... with means less thermal transfer and louder fans...

Opinions?


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> So once again it comes down to the question I face every year come early June... having already dialed my OC back to 3.6 to counteract the rising ambient temps in the house (today it was around 88 here, 30C for our friends abroad)... Even though I want to do a new build this winter, I'm still considering upgrading my current tower... at least by putting in a small water loop. My AZZA tower can support a 360mm rad if I gut the top cage area of the tower... and I'm thinking that while it might be overkill, I'll almost certainly be able to make use of a 360mm rad on my next build, so already having the CPU block, rad, pump, reservoir, and some of the tubing is going to cut down costs down the road. Or instead of the $500 or so a loop would cost (might as well include my GPU right, lol) I could always make the step up to a AIO 240mm loop... most of which are notorious for their high resistance, and weak pumps... with means less thermal transfer and louder fans...
> 
> Opinions?


I am most surely the polar opposite of a Hydro-cooling-cheerleader here. It's definitely not my area of expertise. HOWEVER that said, If I was looking to upgade, say just CPU and mobo, $500 would be enough to buy close to if not the best AMD-Chipset desktop-board and CPU money could buy. That's slightly _*more than double*_ what I (just) paid for my FX6100 and UD3. Seems like a lot of money for a just a cooling solution. Bang for my buck I think I could put 5bills to better use. But maybe I'm just flashing my ignorance. I'm the first to admit I don't really know JACK about water-cooling, other than it's kind of expensive and it uses deionized water that doesn't conduct. That's about it.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

$500
Right now the FX-8350 is the most expensive AMD (desktop) CPU at the egg at $200 even.
That leaves $240 for the MOBO with with $60 left over for a really nice high-end conventional air-CPU HS&fan.








Call me old school.


----------



## miklkit

There is a thread somewhere around here comparing the best air cooled heat sinks and some AIO water coolers. They are pretty close. But considering the temperatures you are living in water cooling sounds like the plan. I live in an air conditioned house and will stick with air. Have you considered a $100 window air conditioner?

Here are some pics I took showing what I done went and did.
The 1st one shows the rubber foot I glued to the case to support the motherboard.
The next two show the relative size of the coolers.
There it is bolted down solidly with the washers holding it down. No I had not cleaned the goop off the cpu yet.
Looking down showing the wind tunnel between the heat sink fan and the case exhaust fan.
If you look carefully you can see the fins of the Thermalright cooler sticking up behind the fan blades. That fan is rated at 110cfm and there is a strong wind coming out of the back of the case.


----------



## KnownDragon

I haven't updated yet but for everyone that has shared their knowledge with me let me







help you out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1396078/what-to-do-when


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

mitlkit, glad to hear I'm not the only AIR-cooled fan (pardon the pun) here I was actually starting to wonder!
Then when you mentioned the ambient he was dealing, swear to god, the next thought I had, before I saw you say it, was you could just A/C the ROOM for, as you said, abour a 100 bucks. When the ambient here reaches low 80s I'm sure I'll just back the OC off a bit, it's only a couple months of the year when, coincidentially enough there is a surplus of better things to do OUTSIDE ANYWAY, so much less need/desire to sit at the keyboard for hours on end anyway.
and like I said, where I'm at, it's less than two months anyway before temps have dipped back into the low-to-mid 70s....
the weather's actually really nice here, it's like Maryland, except probably even less snow.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

OT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> I haven't updated yet but for everyone that has shared their knowledge with me let me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> help you out.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1396078/what-to-do-when


Looks great man! And I could do it even easier, over here fresh pasta like that is fairly cheap and easy to find so I could skip the whole making yer-own-pasta part.... And I already make a killer fresh-basil sauce... was there fresh basil your's? I didn't read the whole thing yet, just kinda skimmed through. you obviously put a lot of time into the whole thing. Really nice job.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> $500
> Right now the FX-8350 is the most expensive AMD (desktop) CPU at the egg at $200 even.
> That leaves $240 for the MOBO with with $60 left over for a really nice high-end conventional air-CPU HS&fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Call me old school.


I'm plenty happy with my 8120 and my UD5, I was thinking more along the lines of either a cooling upgrade (Corsair H80 doesn't cut it during these hot humid summer months, even with a 5,000 BTU air conditioner pumping cold air right at my desk/tower, that is, not if I want to stay at 4-4.2 and try to get it dialed in even further) or an upgraded AIO CPU cooler (like an H100i/110, A Seidon 240/Eisberg 240, or a Kraken X60 or something along those lines, with a GPU upgrade as my 5870 is starting to fall behind what games require these days. Nothing over the top mind you, probably either a Radeon 7870 XT or a GTX 660 Ti, just a great 1080p card that I can pass along with the tower since I use my laptop for most things not music or gaming related.

One of the big reasons I'm considering at least an upgrade to the AIO CPU Cooler is plain and simple, I want to get more experience tweaking the various settings so I have a better idea what I'm doing when the next build comes along. Can't really push my system to the edges of what I can do and learn about it since I really haven't discovered the ceiling for my processor yet.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I feel you guys and the heat. I was thinking about knocking my OC back but so far they seem ok in games. Prime not so much reaching mid 60's. I need a bigger cooler but I need a new motherboard first lol


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I feel you guys and the heat. I was thinking about knocking my OC back but so far they seem ok in games. Prime not so much reaching mid 60's. I need a bigger cooler but I need a new motherboard first lol


I feel you about Gigabyte boards... after all the stuff I've seen you and everyone else on here go through with their UD3s and the brush-off you've all gotten from their customer service, I'm sold on never buying one of their boards again. And it's sad to say it because the only real problem I've ever had with my UD5 is that I just don't like the way they set up the BIOS, I feel that it's much harder to tune than some of the other boards I've had in the past.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I feel you guys and the heat. I was thinking about knocking my OC back but so far they seem ok in games. Prime not so much reaching mid 60's. I need a bigger cooler but I need a new motherboard first lol


o i hear ya man dude









been there too LOL

What is i tough u had bought the Asus sabertooth?

If not try to get a hold on a UD5 rev 1.1 honestly i have this board for couple of weeks now and i love it.


----------



## hurricane28

o en for NoNewEgg4Me,

No problem dude









Were all here to learn something after all aren't we


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> OT:
> Looks great man! And I could do it even easier, over here fresh pasta like that is fairly cheap and easy to find so I could skip the whole making yer-own-pasta part.... And I already make a killer fresh-basil sauce... was there fresh basil your's? I didn't read the whole thing yet, just kinda skimmed through. you obviously put a lot of time into the whole thing. Really nice job.


I envy you because has you can tell I love my Italian food. Yes I do use fresh ingredients. Basil is a must along with some others.


----------



## hurricane28

hey is there someone who has G.skill ripjaws in their system? and so yes is there a way to overclock them?

I constantly hitting blue screens and i am pretty sure it is the RAM that hold me back, and i am getting irritated by that.

So if someone can help me i would be appreciated much


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hey is there someone who has G.skill ripjaws in their system? and so yes is there a way to overclock them?
> 
> I constantly hitting blue screens and i am pretty sure it is the RAM that hold me back, and i am getting irritated by that.
> 
> So if someone can help me i would be appreciated much


I haven't had much luck with the ripjaws. Now this could be due to the chip I am using. The 965 black edition. Now I have spoke with others about the ripjaws. They tend to be a thorn in the side. In my main rig I am using the tridents and they work good and overclock good. I will say this I had the ripjaws in my asrock build and it has the 8320 and was able to overclock them but not very far. I also had to hold the rams hand to get them to do it. (adjust timings, constant volt stuff like that.)


----------



## hurricane28

hmm seems odd because the 2133 CL8 kit is basically the 1333 kit only the voltage is set to 1.65 and the timings are tightener.

I tried it but i constantly get blue screens, i even set the voltage beyond 1.7 volts with the 2133 timing but again no luck.

I want the best and fastest RAM there is but this is giving me headaches LOL


----------



## LicSqualo

Hi all,
I'm new (this is my first reply in a thread) and i have (a lot) appreciate this thread. I'm also italian... so, sorry for my English.
I have a question about my board, a 990fxa-ud7 rev1.0 (no LLC, sigh! but my overclock is not so bad -for my use- not rock solid) with FX-8350.
I cannot change the CPU-NB Vid. Is normal? (yes I change-it but the value is always 1.363 and only with turbo option the value is 1.41)
And can a bios release solve this? Via AMD Overdrive is possible to change this value but for me, personally,... i prefer to change board setting via bios.
Gigabyte answers are bad and with a logic like a *****, they annoying me.
Please help.
Thanks


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I feel you about Gigabyte boards... after all the stuff I've seen you and everyone else on here go through with their UD3s and the brush-off you've all gotten from their customer service, I'm sold on never buying one of their boards again. And it's sad to say it because the only real problem I've ever had with my UD5 is that I just don't like the way they set up the BIOS, I feel that it's much harder to tune than some of the other boards I've had in the past.


You know, if they had at the very least acknowledged there was a problem and worked with us to fix it I might feel differently. I just feel like its a case of haha we got your money, sucker!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> o i hear ya man dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> been there too LOL
> 
> What is i tough u had bought the Asus sabertooth?
> 
> If not try to get a hold on a UD5 rev 1.1 honestly i have this board for couple of weeks now and i love it.


I want to get a Sabertooth. I haven't done it yet. I was going to buy it last month but then I broke the project car and I'm saving for a trip to PA next month so I decided its working well enough for now. Knock on wood lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hey is there someone who has G.skill ripjaws in their system? and so yes is there a way to overclock them?
> 
> I constantly hitting blue screens and i am pretty sure it is the RAM that hold me back, and i am getting irritated by that.
> 
> So if someone can help me i would be appreciated much


I'm using G Skill RipjawsX F3-17000CL9-4GBXM and I'm running them at 9-11-10-28 at 1050mhz with no issues so far. I've had them at 2133 at the same timing with no issues but since I switched over to a bus OC i had to back them off a bit.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hmm seems odd because the 2133 CL8 kit is basically the 1333 kit only the voltage is set to 1.65 and the timings are tightener.
> 
> I tried it but i constantly get blue screens, i even set the voltage beyond 1.7 volts with the 2133 timing but again no luck.
> 
> I want the best and fastest RAM there is but this is giving me headaches LOL


Fx processors do not support 2133 ram naively. They support DDR 3 1866 in dual channel with only 2 memory sticks, if you have 3 or 4 ram sticks then the official supported speed is 1600. Anything beyond these clocks would be considered a overclock.

Things you can do to try and stabilize a memory overclock are listed below. First increasing the memory voltage on a memory kit that is designed to run at 2133 will not help you achieve 2133 speeds, (well unless the memory is defective perhaps). Second you going to have to increase the CPU north bridge voltage (IE the voltage that goes to the integrated memory controller). If you do these 2 steps and still cannot run faster than 1866, then well its your CPU its memory controller is holding you back, in this case just set ram to either 1866 or 1600 and go for the tightest possible timings.

good luck.

Here's a picture of my system, My UD3 rev 1.0 and [email protected] Notice the fan on the vrms , what you might not be able to see is the nuts and bolts being used for mounting the heatsinks on the vrm and Nb.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ebduncan/media/003_zps1d7cf268.jpg.html


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> I envy you because has you can tell I love my Italian food. Yes I do use fresh ingredients. Basil is a must along with some others.


Fresh Basil is to Italian cuisine as fresh cilantro is to homemade salsa... you simply cannot do without it...









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hey is there someone who has G.skill ripjaws in their system? and so yes is there a way to overclock them?
> 
> I constantly hitting blue screens and i am pretty sure it is the RAM that hold me back, and i am getting irritated by that.
> 
> So if someone can help me i would be appreciated much


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hmm seems odd because the 2133 CL8 kit is basically the 1333 kit only the voltage is set to 1.65 and the timings are tightener.
> 
> I tried it but i constantly get blue screens, i even set the voltage beyond 1.7 volts with the 2133 timing but again no luck.
> 
> I want the best and fastest RAM there is but this is giving me headaches LOL


I have the Ripjaws X F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL (1600) and Ripjaws Z F3-14900CL10Q-32GBZL (1866) sets. The first recommendation I would make is return to the BIOS default settings and download a bootable .iso file of memtest86+, burn it to a disc, and then set your primary boot drive to your optical drive and run at least 2 or 3 passes to make sure you don't have a faulty DIMM.

I also had a very difficult time getting the 1866 memory to do any overclock above 2000 but had to go to at least 1.62V, and lower the latencies (11-11-11-33-2T command-42 trc) to get it there. And that was certainly only using two sticks... I had to do a lot of voltage bumps to the CPU Vcore and CPU/NB to get all 32GB running just at it's rated speeds of 1866. I was however very solid and stable at a 4.2 overclock with all 32GB at rated speeds, which tells me I have a pretty solid 8120 since according to the GSkill forums most people with BD chips have a hard time getting a 4x4GB set of 1866 up to rated speeds. I am apprehensive about putting them back in and trying to overclock them though because the 1866 set had a bad DIMM that I just got the RMA back on.

So I went back to the 1600s and I've been able to get them overclocked to around 2173 at a mere 1.55V and timings of 10-11-10-30-2T-40, but I'm still having to toy around and find that sweet spot where everything gets along just fine. Doing a CPU mutli/HTT OC can produce higher overclocks and is really the most effective way to OC your ram, but it takes a lot of patience and trial and error to dial it in. However, the best additional resource I can give you is to go to the GSkill forums ( http://www.gskill.us/forum/ ) and browse through the overclocking threads there.


----------



## hurricane28

Thnx guys very helpful details over here









I did add some volts to the CPUNB but it also puts more heat to the CPU i noticed, and it will run hotter than 62c so OR i have to back off my CPU OC or run 1866 with tighten timings.

I have USB stick with memtest on it so i will test it, as far as i know and saw is that the ripjaws are very good overclockers and a lot of people are using them and get good results.

I had physics score of over 10k and one day i could play games for hours and the day after it couldn't. It seems that my PC has its own will LOL but i know it has to do with the CPU, i do know they have a funky RAM controller on it and it can mess things up pretty fast depending on the chip.

Maybe i have a bad chip, but i can do benchmarking but i get blue screen after 2 hours of gaming.

Well with this information i can take another look at it again and so illuminate things so i know what is holding me back, CPU or RAM


----------



## Recursion

Aio loop isn't that bad because of the weak pump but the reservoir is very small. More water less heat. There are also very strong aio water pump like the coolermaster eisberg or swiftech thing. I thin aio liquid cooler is for beginner or ppl with not much space. Of course if you have too much money a custom loop is always good. I have an antec 920 kühler. It has also an usb controller and cpu temp is controlled by a water temp! Perhaps I want to open it and put a bigger reservoir to it. Then also it can cool my gpu?


----------



## Recursion

Aio loop is bad because the reservoir is very small. More water less heat. There is also very strong aio water pump like the coolermaster eisberg or swiftech thing. I think aio liquid cooler is for beginner or ppl with not much space. Of course if you have too much money a custom loop is always good. I have an antec 920 kühler. It has also an usb controller and cpu temp is controlled by a water temp? Perhaps I want to open it and put a bigger reservoir to it. Then also it can cool my gpu? The usb controller is only 5$ but a decent fan controller with water or cpu temp control is 200$ or more?


----------



## hurricane28

oke i need some more help here plz.

I want to know for certain what the problem is here because i am fed up with this blue screen stuff.

This is my settings and still not stable:





my RAM voltage is 1.775 and still not stable, yes i know the voltage is little high but i have a fan blowing on them so its ok and they do not run hot because i tested it.

My CPUNB is at 1.46 volts too NB voltage set to 1.200 volts.

I think its my CPU of my RAM is not working well, or could there be something i do not see?


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> oke i need some more help here plz.
> 
> I want to know for certain what the problem is here because i am fed up with this blue screen stuff.
> 
> This is my settings and still not stable:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my RAM voltage is 1.775 and still not stable, yes i know the voltage is little high but i have a fan blowing on them so its ok and they do not run hot because i tested it.
> 
> My CPUNB is at 1.46 volts too NB voltage set to 1.200 volts.
> 
> I think its my CPU of my RAM is not working well, or could there be something i do not see?


I have had problems with the 8320 going above 2400 on north bridge causes a lot of blue screens make sure and give your n bridge a bump in volt. Also I would say lower the vcore. Next question do you have the turbo on auto? Also I think you might be overheating your nb. I would cut the nbridge down to under 2400 run it at one bump above stock volt . I know by doing this you will take some edge off the overclock but not enough to matter.

Set your ram to 1.65 before you burn it up. Ram operates better at a warmer temp then cooler.

Edit also cut your ht link back I always keep the ht link behind the north bridge for best results.


----------



## hurricane28

Thnx man, so it is the chip?

I mean i was stable before on 2008mhz RAM with stock timings and now i get all blue screens.

I did bump the voltage of the HT link at 1.325 volts.

If my chip is not good anymore i sell it and or buy new one or buy Intel because i am fed up with this funky RAM controller and constantly blue screens.

i had no problems before but now i cant get stable at anything it seems, i am sorry man but it really pisses me off.


----------



## hurricane28

o and i have no turbo or what so ever on my board.

i have everything enabled that can power down or any turbo or c6, CnC everything.

I am fully controlling my pc at the moment.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> oke i need some more help here plz.
> 
> I want to know for certain what the problem is here because i am fed up with this blue screen stuff.
> 
> This is my settings and still not stable:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my RAM voltage is 1.775 and still not stable, yes i know the voltage is little high but i have a fan blowing on them so its ok and they do not run hot because i tested it.
> 
> My CPUNB is at 1.46 volts too NB voltage set to 1.200 volts.
> 
> I think its my CPU of my RAM is not working well, or could there be something i do not see?


ram mhz looks really nice maybe you can also tweak the timings? I could tweak some values and it improves my windows performance index for ram only because of some timings.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> o and i have no turbo or what so ever on my board.
> 
> i have everything enabled that can power down or any turbo or c6, CnC everything.
> 
> I am fully controlling my pc at the moment.


when you disable cnc it will make your cpu runs full speed all the time. Disable only turbo core. C6, CnC and HPC is really useful.


----------



## hurricane28

Yes thank you but as i stated before i was not stable.

I keep trying for the best timings and best performance i can get but it varies from day to day use because before i was stable and not i get all blue screens.

But i will succeed but it is very frustrating u know.


----------



## ippotsuko

Hi, i'm had a doubt about some matter, i had an motherboard Gigabyte ga-990fxa-ud5, and im intend to buy the GSkill DDR3 2x8Gb 1866Mhz Sniper Cas9 ram memory pack, but i'm not sure if it gonna be compatible whit my motherboard, or if it got some configuration issue. The GSkill page say than that memory it is compatible whit my motherboard, but it not on the list provided in the Gigabyte page. I hope you can tell me if it is an good idea to buy this ram. Thanks for read.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ippotsuko*
> 
> Hi, i'm had a doubt about some matter, i had an motherboard Gigabyte ga-990fxa-ud5, and im intend to buy the GSkill DDR3 2x8Gb 1866Mhz Sniper Cas9 ram memory pack, but i'm not sure if it gonna be compatible whit my motherboard, or if it got some configuration issue. The GSkill page say than that memory it is compatible whit my motherboard, but it not on the list provided in the Gigabyte page. I hope you can tell me if it is an good idea to buy this ram. Thanks for read.


The boards listed on GSkill's website are only the one's they've actually tested and certified at GSkill... due to the vast amount of motherboards on the market it's pretty time consuming to go through them all and certify them. If they say it's a compatible board then you should have no issue getting the ram to run at rated speeds.

Do the following in BIOS:

Disable DRAM EOCP
Change memory clock multiplier to manual and set to 1866 (should be multiplier set to 9.33)
Go into Dram configuration and adjust the latency to the factory standard for the ram (I believe most of the Sniper sets are 9-10-9-28)
Change voltage control to manual
Set DRAM Voltage manually to the rated voltage (should be 1.5 for those DIMMs)
F10 to save and exit and it should post no problem

If it doesn't post go back into BIOS, make sure those settings changed above are still set, and then bump up the CPU NB voltage 1 notch.
F10 to save and exit and reboot... if it doesn't post and boot windows after this then revert back to BIOS defaults and come back here or go to the GSkill forum at www.gskill.us/forum and browse through the AMD BIOS configuration threads and seek out their help.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ippotsuko*
> 
> Hi, i'm had a doubt about some matter, i had an motherboard Gigabyte ga-990fxa-ud5, and im intend to buy the GSkill DDR3 2x8Gb 1866Mhz Sniper Cas9 ram memory pack, but i'm not sure if it gonna be compatible whit my motherboard, or if it got some configuration issue. The GSkill page say than that memory it is compatible whit my motherboard, but it not on the list provided in the Gigabyte page. I hope you can tell me if it is an good idea to buy this ram. Thanks for read.


That is a very good RAM man and i am sure it will work just fine. if not re post here and we see what we can do


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes thank you but as i stated before i was not stable.
> 
> I keep trying for the best timings and best performance i can get but it varies from day to day use because before i was stable and not i get all blue screens.
> 
> But i will succeed but it is very frustrating u know.


Here is my ram timings and nb frequency. 2400 mhz is the max I can get with my fx-4170. When I get higher Windows Aero doesn't work anymore. BTW. I overclock with Turion Power Control. It's really a good tool. AOD is also very usefull. I use bios only for some basic settings and FSB overclock.


----------



## ippotsuko

thanks @SpacemanSpliff and @hurricane28, i will buy that ram, and see what happen, i suppous it will be fine


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Here is my ram timings and nb frequency. 2400 mhz is the max I can get with my fx-4170. When I get higher Windows Aero doesn't work anymore. BTW. I overclock with Turion Power Control. It's really a good tool. AOD is also very usefull. I use bios only for some basic settings and FSB overclock.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Here is my ram timings and nb frequency. 2400 mhz is the max I can get with my fx-4170. When I get higher Windows Aero doesn't work anymore. BTW. I overclock with Turion Power Control. It's really a good tool. AOD is also very usefull. I use bios only for some basic settings and FSB overclock.


That is very good









This is what i have now and it seems it is stable.



It is pretty useless to buy 2133 or 2400 RAM because it is the same RAM only they tested it at those speeds in the factory so u should get the same results as the 2133 or 2400 RAM BUT it depends on the CPU if it supports it because FX chips have very funky memory controllers.

I did something wrong in the bios, i did upper the PLL voltage of the CPUNB but the only gain i got was in temperature because when i set it higher i gain only heat and no stability so leave it alone.

Also i could set the NB/pci-e PLL but that will gain only more heat and again no stability so its best to leave it alone.

i had this advice from someone on this form but he was not right so i changed it back.
The only thing that will gain more stability is to set the NB voltage from stock to 1.200 volts, in my board that is the first voltage that the red/pink begins the rest will only gain more heat and no stability or what so ever.

Also i never use AOD because i do not trust it and its way better to do it in bios itself.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ippotsuko*
> 
> thanks @SpacemanSpliff and @hurricane28, i will buy that ram, and see what happen, i suppous it will be fine


no problem man dude,

i am sure u will be very pleased with it









O en plz put your sig in rigbuilder on the right top of this thread so that we can see what u are running and it helps us to help you


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Also i never use AOD because i do not trust it and its way better to do it in bios itself.


The BIOS is only to load the master boot sector and some pci and pci-e rom and then hands the control of the pc to the OS. I'm sure when you search long enough in CMOS ram you will find all the values from the bios? With the new UEFI there is a bit more to the BIOS but in essence there isn't much the bios can do for you? Well, I think I make myself clear and I stay away from bios settings. BTW. sometimes I also mod my bios and I have also succesfully patched a bios with a better option rom. There is some good literature about bios. You can test it yourself and uninstall all AMD chipset driver?


----------



## hurricane28

well i tried it before and it did not workout for me so that is why i set everything direct in the bios.

And i heard a lot here that said AOD is not that great, i am not saying that u are wrong tho because it works for you but it didn't work for me so that is why i am doing it in the bios.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> well i tried it before and it did not workout for me so that is why i set everything direct in the bios.
> 
> And i heard a lot here that said AOD is not that great, i am not saying that u are wrong tho because it works for you but it didn't work for me so that is why i am doing it in the bios.


`

Basically BIOS is painful because you need a reboot everytime. You can find the sweet spot faster with software. Then you can make your bios overclock and forget about the software. But well, not everything is the same. That's true, too.


----------



## hurricane28

sounds interesting indeed man,

I need to take a look at it some day thnx for the tip


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Aio loop is bad because the reservoir is very small. More water less heat. There is also very strong aio water pump like the coolermaster eisberg or swiftech thing. I think aio liquid cooler is for beginner or ppl with not much space. Of course if you have too much money a custom loop is always good. I have an antec 920 kühler. It has also an usb controller and cpu temp is controlled by a water temp? Perhaps I want to open it and put a bigger reservoir to it. Then also it can cool my gpu? The usb controller is only 5$ but a decent fan controller with water or cpu temp control is 200$ or more?


Not entirely true.. there are many good fan controllers out there that can handle 20-30W per channel (basically enough to control a 420mm rads fans on one channel with plenty to spare) and have an LCD readout to report the fan speeds, temp readings etc.


----------



## hurricane28

Yep its the chip that is the pain here i noticed.

I need 1.6 volts to get 5ghz and that is way to much, this is the second chip that went bad on me.

I read once that some guys do 5ghz on only 1.48 volts, well to me that is very unlikely but it is possible.

Kinda strange that this is my second chip that does not clock well, maybe i buy another chip or i have to wait for steamroller comes out but this FX chips are noting but trouble for me so far.


----------



## levontraut

Odd

I am running EVERYTHING at stock and my cpu is running at 4.1

I am not complaining though


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Not entirely true.. there are many good fan controllers out there that can handle 20-30W per channel (basically enough to control a 420mm rads fans on one channel with plenty to spare) and have an LCD readout to report the fan speeds, temp readings etc.


Yes, I mean controlling the water flow or so and have a back channel with usb so you can control it with a software. Bitfenix has just released a nice usb controlled fan controller. But I think also they make a lot of money because I partly dissassembled my ante kühler 920 and the usb chip in it is only 2-5$ worth. In fact you can do it yourself for example for 50-100$? What you need is a pump with a serial interface or a way to control the voltage and a programmable device to attach it to the usb bus. Aquacomputer for example sells an expensive fan controller.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> Odd
> 
> I am running EVERYTHING at stock and my cpu is running at 4.1
> 
> I am not complaining though


No its not odd, you are not overclocking that's it.

The odd thing is is that these chips are very cherry picked and you must be lucky to have a good one.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> No its not odd, you are not overclocking that's it.
> 
> The odd thing is is that these chips are very cherry picked and you must be lucky to have a good one.


http://valid.canardpc.com/2819427


----------



## miklkit

It looks like you got a good one. Crank the multiplier up to 22.5 and it should run ok at 4.52 ghz with stock volts. Mine does, but won't run at 4.6 with stock volts.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> No its not odd, you are not overclocking that's it.
> 
> The odd thing is is that these chips are very cherry picked and you must be lucky to have a good one.


I wouldn't say that. I think it boils down to experience personally. Yes there are bad chips and good chips. However from my experience after playing with around 8 different FX processors seems to point to experience rather can cherry picked.

Both my 8120 and my new 8320 will go 5ghz. Granted this isn't the highest clocks seen. I have always gotten at least 4.6ghz out of all the chips i have tested.

I've seen some chips do 5.3-5.4 ghz on water cooling, these chips are what i would consider cherry picked. Phase chase 6+ghz is not uncommon. Problem with the FX chips is keeping them cool enough to reach their max clocks, they really love the cold.


----------



## hurricane28

Hmm yes u have a point there indeed.

I am stable at 5ghz with 1.6 volts that is not the problem, but i cant get higher CPUNB than 2500 and HT link 2500 or the system is becoming unstable.

Yes they like the cold because the threshold of these chips is 62c for everyday use but if benching i had max 70c once and that is not a problem if it is for short period of time.

Also i am planning to buy custom water loop, i can get a hold on AlphaCool NexXxoS Cool Answer 240 DDC/XT for around 199

But would it be so much better than my h100i? i seriously doubt it but than again, i do not have experience with custom loops.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hmm yes u have a point there indeed.
> 
> I am stable at 5ghz with 1.6 volts that is not the problem, but i cant get higher CPUNB than 2500 and HT link 2500 or the system is becoming unstable.
> 
> Yes they like the cold because the threshold of these chips is 62c for everyday use but if benching i had max 70c once and that is not a problem if it is for short period of time.
> 
> Also i am planning to buy custom water loop, i can get a hold on AlphaCool NexXxoS Cool Answer 240 DDC/XT for around 199
> 
> But would it be so much better than my h100i? i seriously doubt it but than again, i do not have experience with custom loops.


The stock hyper transport is 2600mhz btw, 2500 on the cpunb is high though. I am running 2364mhz on the north bridge, and 2795 on the hyper transport. Last time I went higher on the north bridge Windows Aero would stop working for some odd reason. Then again that was with my previous 8120, I haven't tried higher nb clocks on the 8320.

As for your cooling question, swapping the H100i for a AlphaCool NexXxoS Cool Answer 240 DDC/XT will not really change your temperatures very much. The radiator is a bit bigger, and the pump is a bit better. You might see the temps drop 2-3 c. To be worth the switch to a custom water loop, I would recommend either a super thick 240 radiator with push/pull, or a 360 radiator push/pull. IF you are only running the H100 now in push only or pull only , going push/pull will drop your temps a good bit. A lot of variables but its like this.

120 push <240 push<120 push/pull<360 push<240 push/pull<360 push/pull On High density high fin count per inch radiators.

120 push< 120 push/pull<240 push< 240 push/pull<360 push<360 push/pull On Low density low fin count per inch radiators


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> The stock hyper transport is 2600mhz btw, 2500 on the cpunb is high though. I am running 2364mhz on the north bridge, and 2795 on the hyper transport. Last time I went higher on the north bridge Windows Aero would stop working for some odd reason. Then again that was with my previous 8120, I haven't tried higher nb clocks on the 8320.
> 
> As for your cooling question, swapping the H100i for a AlphaCool NexXxoS Cool Answer 240 DDC/XT will not really change your temperatures very much. The radiator is a bit bigger, and the pump is a bit better. You might see the temps drop 2-3 c. To be worth the switch to a custom water loop, I would recommend either a super thick 240 radiator with push/pull, or a 360 radiator push/pull. IF you are only running the H100 now in push only or pull only , going push/pull will drop your temps a good bit. A lot of variables but its like this.
> 
> 120 push <240 push<120 push/pull<360 push<240 push/pull<360 push/pull On High density high fin count per inch radiators.
> 
> 120 push< 120 push/pull<240 push< 240 push/pull<360 push<360 push/pull On Low density low fin count per inch radiators


his 2500 mhz on nb is very high. At this clock windows aero doesn't work and the oc is useless. Instead of buying the alphacool you can put a bigger reservoir to the corsair aio. It's not so difficult to extend the aio. At least I wrote I want to try this?


----------



## hurricane28

Yes it is high indeed but it does gain some extra points in gaming tho.

Ah i thought so, well i am running my h100i in push/pull now with the corsair sp120's there are not many fans that has the same static pressure as those fans, and yes they are utterly loud at full blast, i say blast because when i have them to the max they sound like yet engines LOL

And what do you mean bigger reservoir to the aio?

I will take a look at a fat 240 rad because i cannot fit 360 in my Obsidian 650D, also the air flow is very bad in this case because when i am gaming i need to remove the side panel and that gives me some 4c difference, i need better 200mm fan in the front to suck more air in the case and i had Cooler Master megaflow blue led mounted on the front but it performs less than the standard corsair that is mounted at stock.

Seems there is something wrong with the fan because it hase more CF/M than the Corsair does but when i put them next to each other i feel a lot more air from the Corsair than from the Cooler master so have to return the Cooler master and get another one.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> And what do you mean bigger reservoir to the aio?


I think you can improve the AIO a lot with a bigger reservoir. There is some example on this site, too?


----------



## hurricane28

Hm okay well the pump is not that strong so i will not temper with the aio wit this.

Also i am going to buy BitFenix Spectre PRO 200mm Fan Blue LED - Black i heard they are a lot better than my standard Corsair 200mm fan, hopes this is getting my temps little down and do not have to open my side window to get descent airflow in the case.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hey is there someone who has G.skill ripjaws in their system? and so yes is there a way to overclock them?
> 
> I constantly hitting blue screens and i am pretty sure it is the RAM that hold me back, and i am getting irritated by that.
> 
> So if someone can help me i would be appreciated much


I originally had rip-jaws in mine, (2X2) it was 1600 rated and of course on first run-ups was "thank-you-GB-BIOS", "defaulting" to 1333.
THE BEST I COULD get out of it was 1600, but that was, of course before I flashed the BIOS to FC. *However*, for what it's worth, in all attempts to get over the 1600 barrier, it never BSOD'd. It just post-failed and gave me that "boot-fail-overclocking-enter-BIOS" screen.
By the time I Flashed it I already had the CsVengeance in so.....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> well i tried it before and it did not workout for me so that is why i set everything direct in the bios.
> 
> And i heard a lot here that said AOD is not that great, i am not saying that u are wrong tho because it works for you but it didn't work for me so that is why i am doing it in the bios.


Yuno.... I'm sure some of the "out-side-bios" OC'ing SW has improved since I last tried any of them, (several years) but it was just so bad the first couple things I did play with, I've been a strictly-direct-to-BIOS guy ever since and doing it that was has never given me any reason to look back.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Yuno.... I'm sure some of the "out-side-bios" OC'ing SW has improved since I last tried any of them, (several years) but it was just so bad the first couple things I did play with, I've been a strictly-direct-to-BIOS guy ever since and doing it that was has never given me any reason to look back.


I already wrote that bios cannot do much for you.The most interesting thing happens in the chipset driver. Or do you think all this software OC is using bios to overclock? BTW. I think I have also this VRM issue. My PC shutdown under heavy load, i.e. gaming and I already bought a stronger psu?


----------



## hurricane28

Okay guys,

I have managed to set my RAM to 2400mhz now and i am stable here for 2 hours.

I just set the RAM profile to 2400 and it gets to 1.655 volts automatically and my timings are 11-11-11-33 same as the 2400 RAM that u can buy so that pretty much raps it up about buying 1866 and OC them to 2400 because it is the same ram as the 2400, u can see it in this site:

http://en.gskill.com/en/product/f3-17000cl8d-4gbxmd-

So the RAM is basically 1333 RAM at 1.5 volts and it is clocked higher due to 1.65 volts and tighten the timings a bit, this will not say that ANY RAM can do this because i tried it and it was not stable but i am at 2400 now so i am happy with it for now.

Also i have my NB set to 2570 and the HT link at 2826 and i am pretty stable and very fast at the moment so i hope it will be stable for now.

I was playing farcry3 for almost 2 hours and was getting 61c so that is pretty good if u ask me for this cooler with 1.6 volts


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I already wrote that bios cannot do much for you. It's same predefined values in the cmos. The most interesting thing happens in the chipset driver. Or do you think all this software OC is using bios to overclock? BTW. I think I have also this VRM issue. My PC shutdown under heavy load, i.e. gaming and I already bought a stronger psu?


oooh kaaay.... I couldn't really follow a lot of that but I'll respond to the parts I think I was clear on... "bios cannot do much for you" FOR ME BIOS does everything I need it to in terms of OC'ing. Or were you getting at something else? Then I think you were saying BIOS is merely the "same predefined values in the cmos" I suspect that's at least partially true, but at the same time I think (JMO) that much of what's in and controled by the BIOS is independent of the CMOS, but EITHER WAY (as ssume) you're talking about STOCK values (I guess), to wit, ....so? BIOS gets some of it's stock values from the CMOS, yeah... and then we tweak them to OC. or were you going somewhere else with that? "The most interesting thing happens in the chipset driver" Really lost me on that one. Personally I've never been "in the" chipset driver or attempted to edit one. I'm pretty sure we got crossed signals on THAT ONE. "do you think all this software OC is using bios to overclock" THAT's actually an interesting question. I don't know. But if I had to guess I'd go with NOT. Since they are Operating-System based applications they'd doing what ever they do, after Windows (or whatever) is fully loaded, the Bios-post-up long past and in theory anyway, inalterable at that point. BUT THEN some are likely "saving your choices" and then attempting to "write to the BIOS" after you restart, (hence "you must restart your computer for the changes to take effect") I just know that whatever it was that (the one's I last messed with) they're doing they did it very unsucessfully. But Like I Said, that was some years ago and (granted) they probably have made some advances since then, but, further, I personally remain happy to do all my OC-tweaking in the BIOS directly. or... did I not understand you correctly?
Then you jumped over to VRM issue. OZZ is the go-2-guy on that one! But if your box is self-stopping, "under heavy load",
I would assume you've pushed your OC to far (duh) on one or more components, (1) and 2.) Very slim chance (IMHO) that the power supply (would have) had anything to do with it. Since you already upgraded and it's happened with the new PS it's fairly moot. ....if I understood you correctly....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Okay guys,
> 
> I have managed to set my RAM to 2400mhz now and i am stable here for 2 hours.
> 
> I just set the RAM profile to 2400 and it gets to 1.655 volts automatically and my timings are 11-11-11-33 same as the 2400 RAM that u can buy so that pretty much raps it up about buying 1866 and OC them to 2400 because it is the same ram as the 2400, u can see it in this site:
> 
> http://en.gskill.com/en/product/f3-17000cl8d-4gbxmd-
> 
> So the RAM is basically 1333 RAM at 1.5 volts and it is clocked higher due to 1.65 volts and tighten the timings a bit, this will not say that ANY RAM can do this because i tried it and it was not stable but i am at 2400 now so i am happy with it for now.
> 
> Also i have my NB set to 2570 and the HT link at 2826 and i am pretty stable and very fast at the moment so i hope it will be stable for now.
> 
> I was playing farcry3 for almost 2 hours and was getting 61c so that is pretty good if u ask me for this cooler with 1.6 volts


you've inspired me. I was done with the RAM, I'm at 1959 which a full 2 up from the rated-stock. But now I think I'll go for another tick, WHEN I get back from NY, I'll have ona them VRM HS's and I'll install that along with my Cooler Master Hyper 212+ and we shall see how high I can go. Of course by then the AMBIENT will have begun to rise too so..... The REAL _*hard-core*_ push may have to wait untill fall....


----------



## hurricane28

Thnx that was what i try to do









never give up









But seriously buying 2133 RAM when u have 1866 or even 1600 would be useless if u can oc it yourself at those speeds too and can save a couple of dollars/euro's









The thing is tho that NOT every RAM will get that speed i guess , they tested the RAM there so u are always sure that it will run 2133 or 2400, also i heard FX chips do not support native 2133 or 2400
i am not sure if that is right because i never tested it.

What i did was set the RAM profile to 2400 and get the same timings as they sell for 2400 and prestooo! it works.
At first i was done too because i could not be stable at any speed until now.

Also when i set it to 2400 my FSB gets to 257 so that can be that my chip likes that FSB more than the 251 i was running before OR my RAM likes this speed better.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I would be unhappy if my temps were reaching 61C while playing a game. That would tell me that during a true 8 core load its going to be to hot. As long as you are happy though!


----------



## hajnalka

I have Corsair Vengeance 1866 Mhz 9-10-9-27 1.5V 4x4Gb total 16Gb

Stabile run only 1334Mhz why?

When pc run 4Ghz base clock and memory 1344mhz a have Cinebench 11.5 result 6,60
When pc run 5Ghz and base clock memory settings 1344Mhz have Cinebench 11.5 result 5,27 all is water cooling VRM,Northbridge water temperature max 61C and CPU i see max 72C

CPU trotling or VRM?

How to see?

Thanks for help

Maybe not good settings i use still Intel CPU this is my First AMD


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Thnx that was what i try to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> never give up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But seriously buying 2133 RAM when u have 1866 or even 1600 would be useless if u can oc it yourself at those speeds too and can save a couple of dollars/euro's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing is tho that NOT every RAM will get that speed i guess , they tested the RAM there so u are always sure that it will run 2133 or 2400, also i heard FX chips do not support native 2133 or 2400
> i am not sure if that is right because i never tested it.
> 
> What i did was set the RAM profile to 2400 and get the same timings as they sell for 2400 and prestooo! it works.
> At first i was done too because i could not be stable at any speed until now.
> 
> Also when i set it to 2400 my FSB gets to 257 so that can be that my chip likes that FSB more than the 251 i was running before OR my RAM likes this speed better.


I'm running Corsair Vengeance so if I'm lucky it should be good for one more tick up (should be 2133) just by multplier alone. If wanted to go beyond THAT I'd almost cettianly be looking the the TIMING-tweaks you mentioned. W E already shows the RAM at 7.9 (at 1959)


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> oooh kaaay.... I couldn't really follow a lot of that but I'll respond to the parts I think I was clear on... "bios cannot do much for you" FOR ME BIOS does everything I need it to in terms of OC'ing. Or were you getting at something else? Then I think you were saying BIOS is merely the "same predefined values in the cmos" I suspect that's at least partially true, but at the same time I think (JMO) that much of what's in and controled by the BIOS is independent of the CMOS, but EITHER WAY (as ssume) you're talking about STOCK values (I guess), to wit, ....so? BIOS gets some of it's stock values from the CMOS, yeah... and then we tweak them to OC. or were you going somewhere else with that? "The most interesting thing happens in the chipset driver" Really lost me on that one. Personally I've never been "in the" chipset driver or attempted to edit one. I'm pretty sure we got crossed signals on THAT ONE. "do you think all this software OC is using bios to overclock" THAT's actually an interesting question. I don't know. But if I had to guess I'd go with NOT. Since they are Operating-System based applications they'd doing what ever they do, after Windows (or whatever) is fully loaded, the Bios-post-up long past and in theory anyway, inalterable at that point. BUT THEN some are likely "saving your choices" and then attempting to "write to the BIOS" after you restart, (hence "you must restart your computer for the changes to take effect") I just know that whatever it was that (the one's I last messed with) they're doing they did it very unsucessfully. But Like I Said, that was some years ago and (granted) they probably have made some advances since then, but, further, I personally remain happy to do all my OC-tweaking in the BIOS directly. or... did I not understand you correctly?
> Then you jumped over to VRM issue. OZZ is the go-2-guy on that one! But if your box is self-stopping, "under heavy load",
> I would assume you've pushed your OC to far (duh) on one or more components, (1) and 2.) Very slim chance (IMHO) that the power supply (would have) had anything to do with it. Since you already upgraded and it's happened with the new PS it's fairly moot. ....if I understood you correctly....


1. First off, you should really read about BIOS and PC and so on. Of course I cannot teach you 10-20 years experience nor I'm a professional teacher nor I get paid for it. I just wanted to say you can make OC and finding your sweet spot faster with software and you don't need to reboot so often. Of course in BIOS there is something more but the main purpose of the bios is only to get the cpu running so that it can load the mbr from the disk and then it gives total control to the OS. Hence you can erase the CMOS from Windows and most likely your OC settings is gone? How would you do that if you think of the BIOS is controlling everything? Programming a chipset driver isn't a rocket science either, actually is all happens now.
I cannot say anything about your bad experience with software OC but most likely if you don't put some serious effort in something you can quickly get also frustrated. It's like your job when you choose a job you aren't always satisfied with your choice and then it can also happen you must make small compromise to enjoy it?

2. I think my cpu is just starving. But it's good to know where I can look when my temp is going to far.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> I have Corsair Vengeance 1866 Mhz 9-10-9-27 1.5V 4x4Gb total 16Gb
> 
> Stabile run only 1334Mhz why?
> 
> When pc run 4Ghz base clock and memory 1344mhz a have Cinebench 11.5 result 6,60
> When pc run 5Ghz and base clock memory settings 1344Mhz have Cinebench 11.5 result 5,27 all is water cooling VRM,Northbridge water temperature max 61C and CPU i see max 72C
> 
> CPU trotling or VRM? How to see?
> 
> Thanks for help Maybe not good settings i use still Intel CPU this is my First AMD


OK again, I'm not positive I understood you completely, but here here goes anyway!

72C CPU on THIS BOARD is TOO HOT. The fact (you say) it's not stable is further proof of that AND also that,
5Ghz is too much. Or else how you got it there was the wrong mix. Either way you need fall back and regroup. See if you can it stable around 4.4 and then try a different attack plan going forward.
And maybe think about settling for 4.8Ghz......
in case I wasn't clear, 72C on the CPU is WHY it's not stable. If the CPU is 72C the VRMs are probably hotter than that.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I would be unhappy if my temps were reaching 61C while playing a game. That would tell me that during a true 8 core load its going to be to hot. As long as you are happy though!


Yes i know but the main thing what i do is gaming.

I am looking for custom loop soon so it will be much cooler than


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> 1. First off, you should really read about BIOS and PC and so on. Of course I cannot teach you 10-20 years experience nor I'm a professional teacher nor I get paid for it. I just wanted to say you can make OC and finding your sweet spot faster with software and you don't need to reboot so often. Of course in BIOS there is something more but the main purpose of the bios is only to get the cpu running so that it can load the mbr from the disk and then it gives total control to the OS. Hence you can erase the CMOS from Windows and most likely your OC settings is gone? How would you do that if you think of the BIOS is controlling everything? Programming a chipset driver isn't a rocket science either, actually is all happens now and from other human being.
> I cannot say anything about your bad experience with software OC but most likely if don't put some serious effort in something you can quickly say it's bad it's nothing to me. It's like your job when you choose a job you aren't always satisfied with your choice and then it also happen you must jump over your shadows to enjoy it?
> 
> 2. I think my cpu is just starving. But it's good to know where I can look when my temp is going to far.


Ok last time, because this is a debate that's almost not even worth having. And I don't want to get in what's starting to feel like a pissing contest with, but probably not for the reasons you might assume. Just two thing's
1.) "Hence you can erase the CMOS from Windows and most likely your OC settings is gone?" (??) what? "CMOS" dosn't exist within windows it's a set of instructions written into a chip on the mother board and if you DID somehow manage to corrupt it or wipe it out you be done. No Post up no nothing. Plus which stop me if I'm wrong but "CMOS" is a term that isn't even used any more, now it's just BIOS which is in the process of being replaced by what "UFIBIOS"? and technology marches on and on bla bla bla...
2.) as for teaching me 10-20 years of experience, dude, I tried hard to be civil in my response as I am now, I'd appreciate the same, and _*just for the record*_, my first computer was a TANDY-1000 and I cut my teeth in college on a trash-80 and an IBM main-frame that HAD A CARD READER and 7-track TAPES, (reels the size of an LP)
BOTTOM LINE? You like to use software to OC, I'm fine with manual BIOS settings. Whatever, no big deal. Each to his own. "That's what makes horse races" and all all that.
I'll let you have the last word if you want it and I'm sure you do, but I'm done with this particular debate.

Peace bro, happy tweakin'!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> 1. First off, you should really read about BIOS and PC and so on. Of course I cannot teach you 10-20 years experience nor I'm a professional teacher nor I get paid for it. I just wanted to say you can make OC and finding your sweet spot faster with software and you don't need to reboot so often. Of course in BIOS there is something more but the main purpose of the bios is only to get the cpu running so that it can load the mbr from the disk and then it gives total control to the OS. Hence you can erase the CMOS from Windows and most likely your OC settings is gone? How would you do that if you think of the BIOS is controlling everything? Programming a chipset driver isn't a rocket science either, actually is all happens now.
> I cannot say anything about your bad experience with software OC but most likely if you don't put some serious effort in something you can quickly get also frustrated. It's like your job when you choose a job you aren't always satisfied with your choice and then it can also happen you must make small compromise to enjoy it?
> 
> 2. I think my cpu is just starving. But it's good to know where I can look when my temp is going to far.


I agree that software overclocking can make things easier. However its been my experience that voltage control and stuff isn't so hot. I prefer doing my overclock from the BIOS. When push comes to shove the BIOS will always load what I have it set too, many things can prevent software from doing its job. It user preference really, there is no wrong way to do it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes i know but the main thing what i do is gaming.
> 
> I am looking for custom loop soon so it will be much cooler than


I'm debating on getting back into the custom loop train or just buying a H100i. I had a custom loop on my FX-55 a few years back but remembering to put water in it was my downfall lol. I really like the closed loop systems I don't have to worry about refilling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Ok last time, because this is a debate that's almost not even worth having. And I don't want to get in what's starting to feel like a pissing contest with, but probably not for the reasons you might assume. Just two thing's
> 1.) "Hence you can erase the CMOS from Windows and most likely your OC settings is gone?" (??) what? "CMOS" dosn't exist within windows it's a set of instructions written into a chip on the mother board and if you DID somehow manage to corrupt it or wipe it out you be done. No Post up no nothing. Plus which stop me if I'm wrong but "CMOS" is a term that isn't even used any more, now it's just BIOS which is in the process of being replaced by what "UFIBIOS"? and technology marches on and on bla bla bla...
> 2.) as for teaching me 10-20 years of experience, dude, I tried hard to be civil in my response as I am now, I'd appreciate the same, and _*just for the record*_, my first computer was a TANDY-1000 and I cut my teeth in college on a trash-80 and an IBM main-frame that HAD A CARD READER and 7-track TAPES, (reels the size of an LP)
> BOTTOM LINE? You like to use software to OC, I'm fine with manual BIOS settings. Whatever, no big deal. Each to his own. "That's what makes horse races" and all all that.
> I'll let you have the last word if you want it and I'm sure you do, but I'm done with this particular debate.
> 
> Peace bro, happy tweakin'!


Oh man, I remember the good old "trash 80" Good times for sure. I had a 8in floppy drive in that bad boy too. My first *serious* build was an AMD 386 DX40 with 4mb of RAM. Jesus I'm old. lol It's absolutely amazing how far things have come in just a few decades.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I agree that software overclocking can make things easier. However its been my experience that voltage control and stuff isn't so hot. I prefer doing my overclock from the BIOS. When push comes to shove the BIOS will always load what I have it set too, many things can prevent software from doing its job. It user preference really, there is no wrong way to do it.
> I'm debating on getting back into the custom loop train or just buying a H100i. I had a custom loop on my FX-55 a few years back but remembering to put water in it was my downfall lol. I really like the closed loop systems I don't have to worry about refilling.
> Oh man, I remember the good old "trash 80" Good times for sure. I had a 8in floppy drive in that bad boy too. My first *serious* build was an AMD 386 DX40 with 4mb of RAM. Jesus I'm old. lol It's absolutely amazing how far things have come in just a few decades.


My first "serious build" was an Intel, DX4-100, I don't recall how much RAM, 2mb maybe ONE? (I got yer "old" riiiiight here ozz!)


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I had an Intel DX2-66 then went to an AMD DX4-120, that sucker could run Duke Nukem 3d at 1024x768 lol


----------



## hurricane28

Yes well i am not very happy with my h100i after all, if u see the scores it does not cool that much better than the top of the line air coolers.

It is an very good cooler but u need very loud and high static pressure fans because first it is aluminum and very dense radiator.

I am not sure yet but i am thinking of an or 480 rad or 360 and one 240 rad, i am still thinking what is the best and what i can afford.

The loop does not have to be refilled that much and it depends on temperature, it takes couple of months to refill and it is an easy job.


----------



## hajnalka

Stop throttling

Core +0.100mV Maximum is stable +0.300mV

NB Core +0.100mV Maximum is stable 0.300mV

1.35V 5Ghz Core temp max 72C Water temp max 52C
Tj.Max 80C

669.95 MHz memory speed is 1344Mhz is my maximum in stock clock and overclock 1600Mhz and higher is not work

1.46V on core is too hot start throttling


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I had an Intel DX2-66 then went to an AMD DX4-120, that sucker could run Duke Nukem 3d at 1024x768 lol


DOOM 2 baby. many's the night I sat down to play for just a bit and...... OMG! The sun's coming UP!


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

OZZY,
I'm going to pick up my Enzotech MST-88 RIGHT AT the FrozenCPU warehouse while I'm "home" in Roch, is there anything else I should consider while I'm there? Did you replace the NB hs?

If ya'll ain't checked out their website yet ya needs to! The entire store is devoted to OC'ing, (hence the name?)


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes well i am not very happy with my h100i after all, if u see the scores it does not cool that much better than the top of the line air coolers.
> 
> It is an very good cooler but u need very loud and high static pressure fans because first it is aluminum and very dense radiator.
> 
> I am not sure yet but i am thinking of an or 480 rad or 360 and one 240 rad, i am still thinking what is the best and what i can afford.
> 
> The loop does not have to be refilled that much and it depends on temperature, it takes couple of months to refill and it is an easy job.


I'm not terribly worried about noise, this thing is already loud. I'll have to shop around and see what a good custom loop costs compared to the H100i

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> DOOM 2 baby. many's the night I sat down to play for just a bit and...... OMG! The sun's coming UP!


I've been there many times. I LOVE Doom and Doom 2.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> OZZY,
> I'm going to pick up my Enzotech MST-88 RIGHT AT the FrozenCPU warehouse while I'm "home" in Roch, is there anything else I should consider while I'm there? Did you replace the NB hs?
> 
> If ya'll ain't checked out their website yet ya needs to! The entire store is devoted to OC'ing, (hence the name?)


Really other than the Enzotech I would find a good 80mm slim fan to stick over top of it. So far my extremely loud little AMD fan has been doing the job, though I understand a lot of people won't tolerate the noise it makes.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'm not terribly worried about noise, this thing is already loud. I'll have to shop around and see what a good custom loop costs compared to the H100i
> I've been there many times. I LOVE Doom and Doom 2.
> Really other than the Enzotech I would find a good 80mm slim fan to stick over top of it. So far my extremely loud little AMD fan has been doing the job, though I understand a lot of people won't tolerate the noise it makes.


I thought Doom was kinda weak, visually. Doom 2, HUGE improvemnt.
and as far as "OMG-the-suns-coming-up", heck, it's 3am here RIGHT now!

FrozenCPU, so I'm good then. I got all kinds of spare fans, some caniblized, many actually NEW-never used. Being a Pack-Rat from (well you know) occasionally has it's advantages. I've got dual-40mm hard-drive cooler that might do the trick. If it's too bulky I can always remove the fans, I have spare 80's as well.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> Ok last time, because this is a debate that's almost not even worth having. And I don't want to get in what's starting to feel like a pissing contest with, but probably not for the reasons you might assume. Just two thing's
> 1.) "Hence you can erase the CMOS from Windows and most likely your OC settings is gone?" (??) what? "CMOS" dosn't exist within windows it's a set of instructions written into a chip on the mother board and if you DID somehow manage to corrupt it or wipe it out you be done. No Post up no nothing. Plus which stop me if I'm wrong but "CMOS" is a term that isn't even used any more, now it's just BIOS which is in the process of being replaced by what "UFIBIOS"? and technology marches on and on bla bla bla...
> 2.) as for teaching me 10-20 years of experience, dude, I tried hard to be civil in my response as I am now, I'd appreciate the same, and _*just for the record*_, my first computer was a TANDY-1000 and I cut my teeth in college on a trash-80 and an IBM main-frame that HAD A CARD READER and 7-track TAPES, (reels the size of an LP)
> BOTTOM LINE? You like to use software to OC, I'm fine with manual BIOS settings. Whatever, no big deal. Each to his own. "That's what makes horse races" and all all that.
> I'll let you have the last word if you want it and I'm sure you do, but I'm done with this particular debate.
> 
> Peace bro, happy tweakin'!


The fact that you are older then me doesn't mean anything. It's funny why you want to play the argument from authority but when other proves you are wrong you don't apply it to yourself? After all this is human.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

And bickering over semantics is accomplishing what? When someone says UEFI, I know they are referring too. The terminology and interface has changed, the base of what it does is has not


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> And bickering over semantics is accomplishing what? When someone says UEFI, I know they are referring too. The terminology and interface has changed, the base of what it does is has not


Well, I have provided enough technical information why BIOS is IMHO not so good to overclock and why software overclock has it reason. I can repeat myself but of course you can oc how you want. But from him or yours posting I can't see anymore insight then just always the same argument from authority. And you should know when you pass an exam semantic is important because what first count is formalism.


----------



## VenG3ance

Ive got a 990fxa ud5, as of this day which is the best bios for overclocking?


----------



## FiatluX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> My first *serious* build was an AMD 386 DX40 with 4mb of RAM. Jesus I'm old..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoNewEgg4Me*
> 
> My first "serious build" was an Intel, DX4-100, I don't recall how much RAM, 2mb maybe ONE? (I got yer "old" riiiiight here ozz!)


Lol, pretty much the same as me.. Except I cant even remember the exacts..
First computer I ever owned but didn´t build myself, had 640K of ram

Welcome to the club!


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

I had several pcs before I built my first one, not as old school as you guys though... It was a Pentium 4 2.8 GHz Northwood C (if memory serves correct that's the first generation of Intel's that had HyperThreading) with a whopping 2GB of DDR2-400, a Maxtor 120GB EIDE, and a Radeon 9200.

Even though that was only about 9 or 10 years ago... in my defense, I started with a Commodore 64 as my first computer... so you gotta give me some credit on that one... It needs a new floppy drive, but the rest runs just fine, lol. And yes, every now and then I poke around looking for Commodore floppy drives, it may be old school, but I first got into gaming on that thing and would love to get it fully running again.


----------



## hurricane28

@ Ozzy

Okay than you will be satisfied with the h100i than









I let you know when i sell it


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Wich bios do u guys that run a FX processor and memory higher speed then 1600mhz use?

I have the ud5 rev 3 mobo.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Wich bios do u guys that run a FX processor and memory higher speed then 1600mhz use?
> 
> I have the ud5 rev 3 mobo.


Hey

go to the site i linked and download the FB bios

http://www.gigabyte.co.nl/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4455#bios


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hey
> 
> go to the site i linked and download the FB bios
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.co.nl/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4455#bios


I am running the Fb bios now, but i get my memorys to 1600mhz max!


----------



## hurricane28

Go to memory profiles and select prifile2

What RAM do u have? 1866?


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

2133mhz

When i set profile 2 it just goes into bios when post.


----------



## valid8

Hey everyone, first post on this thread. I'm about to make the big step towards the ATX motherboards after years of AMD m-atx rigs and I'd like to know your thoughts on the UD5 model, and what's the best revision out of the currently available? I was guessing the rev 3.0, but I'd like to hear your opinions also. Reading through the thread I see the UD3 is a nightmarish board to OC on, across all revisions...is that the same with the UD5? thank you 4 your time.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *valid8*
> 
> Hey everyone, first post on this thread. I'm about to make the big step towards the ATX motherboards after years of AMD m-atx rigs and I'd like to know your thoughts on the UD5 model, and what's the best revision out of the currently available? I was guessing the rev 3.0, but I'd like to hear your opinions also. Reading through the thread I see the UD3 is a nightmarish board to OC on, across all revisions...is that the same with the UD5? thank you 4 your time.


I have had my UD5 rev 1.1 for about 14 months now, and have had no problems with it. I don't know how many Gigabyte boards you're used in the past, but they use AwardBIOS, which is really the only thing I can fault the UD5 for, but compared to the UD3 (which you have probably read a great many horror stories about in this thread) it's a very solid board and tends to overclock very well. If you want to set up a CrossFire/SLI rig it can handle up to a 3-way rig. Also, If you want to install a PCIe Wireless card, it will be little snug above the first PCIEx 2, especially with the proximity of the NB heatsink to that slot... It's usually not too tricky to manually configure RAM to run at 1600 or 1866 if that's their rated speed, despite the BIOS not having a default native support for anything over 1333. Other than that I can't really think of anything that distinguishes the UD5s... I haven't encountered anyone with a Rev 3.0 that I know of, but I haven't heard of any issues with them either. The Rev 1.1s have a very solid reputation, and that's the majority of what's on the market right now, as come to think of it, I don't think I ever encountered someone with a Rev 2 either.

Given what other boards cost and the track records some of them have, I would recommend either a UD5 or an ASUS Sabertooth R2.0... they're about the same price, and arguably two of the best 3 or 4 990FX boards on the market.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> 2133mhz
> 
> When i set profile 2 it just goes into bios when post.


Strange it should not do that,

Or it can has to do with that FX chips cant support more than 1866 native.

What you can do is go in to the bios and select 2133 in ram profile, it automatically set the right voltage and timings u need to do yourself but that stands on the package of your RAM.

Good luck


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Wich bios do u guys that run a FX processor and memory higher speed then 1600mhz use?
> 
> I have the ud5 rev 3 mobo.


I have a rev 1.1, but I'm pretty sure the BIOS are the same. I'm running the F11 BIOS, but I think everything after the F9 was where it really got easier getting RAM to rated speeds. With the UD5, I'm pretty sure the only way you'll get your RAM to 2133 is to do a combination of CPU multi/HTT OC in BIOS, as the fastest it will go otherwise is going to be 1866. The UD5 will not like anything above that even if the RAM is rated for that speed.

What I would recommend as a starting point to try is the following in BIOS with trying to get it to run as is...

Disable DRAM ECOP
DRAM frequency to Manual
Set DRAM Freq multi to 10.66
enter DRAM configurations
set latencies to 11-11-11-33-2t timing-44 row cycle
exit back to system voltage and make sure the CPU NB is one tick above stock and that he DRAM voltage is manually set to 1.6V
F10, save and exit,

If it fails to post, repeat and try 11-12-11-33-2t-44, then 11-12-11-34-2t-44, then 11-12-12-35-2t-44, etc... If you can't seem to find a spot where it posts and runs at 2133, start over and try to get it to run at 1866

DRAM Freq. x 9.33
latencies to 11-11-11-33-2t-44
CPU NB V back to stock
DRAM Voltage at rated (1.6)
F10 and continue trying at 1866...

You might get lucky and be able to hit 2133, but don't count on it being a straight forward job... you should have no trouble hitting 1866 and then trying out a CPU multi, HTT combination to fine tune things and get the RAM up closer to at least 2000, which I think is the cap for UD5s... I've not heard of anyone getting much higher above that.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

TY so much for your advice, i now run 11-11-11 at 1866mhz speed and im happy with that. All i did was to set timings manually!


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

No problem.







With the FX CPUs and chipsets on the 990FX boards, it seems to be par for the course to have to manually set timings and voltage from BIOS... I have the GSkill forum to thank for walking me through all of this with my RAM.


----------



## hurricane28

Good job im glad it worked out for ya


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

I just managed top lower timings to 10-10-10 sucessfully. I try get them lower.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

You should probably be able to get your latency timings down around 9-10-9-28, maybe 9-9-9-27 for 1866... even an outside shot at getting them down to 8-9-9-27...


----------



## hurricane28

My stock timings are 8-9-9-24 with 1866 on 1.5 volts


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

He might have trouble get his latency that low and stable if it's 2133... plus his are Kingston HyperX Beast, not GSkill like ours, but it's certainly possible... When I was running my stability tests I found I could drop my 1866 32GB set down to 1600 and run them stable at 8-9-8-24 with a row charge of 30 when I tried my 4.6GHz OC on the CPU back in March... hmm... yeah, he should be able to hit that...


----------



## hurricane28

oh my bad i was thinking he had ripjawsX









currently i am running them at 2200 because i do not want to OC them to the max because i want them to last.

my timings are 11-11-11-33 maybe i can get the timings even tighter but i don't think so and it is good as it is now


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Got timings @ 1922mhz to 9-10-9 -28! I feel satisified with that, but i will try lower. Ty again for all your help!

My memory kingston hyper X beast are supposed to run at [email protected] HyperX Beast (T3) - 8GB Kit* (2x4GB) - DDR3 2133MHz CL11 Intel XMP DIMM

Part Number: KHX21C11T3K2/8X

Specs: DDR3, 2133MHz, CL11, 1.6V, Unbuffered, Spec Sheet PDF

Profile 1: 2133MHz, 11-12-11, 1.6V
Profile 2: 1600MHz, 9-9-9, 1.5V


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Tried some more but it seems i have to settle for 9-10-9 timings at my ram speed. Now im wondering how important is the 2 other values that u talk about when u overclock your memory the (Cycle time-tRAS) and (Bank cycle time-tRC)?

My tRAS is 28 and my tRC is 46, what should i aim for with those?


----------



## valid8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I have had my UD5 rev 1.1 for about 14 months now, and have had no problems with it. *I don't know how many Gigabyte boards you're used in the past, but they use AwardBIOS, which is really the only thing I can fault the UD5 for*, but compared to the UD3 (which you have probably read a great many horror stories about in this thread) it's a very solid board and tends to overclock very well. If you want to set up a CrossFire/SLI rig it can handle up to a 3-way rig. Also, If you want to install a PCIe Wireless card, it will be little snug above the first PCIEx 2, especially with the proximity of the NB heatsink to that slot... It's usually not too tricky to manually configure RAM to run at 1600 or 1866 if that's their rated speed, despite the BIOS not having a default native support for anything over 1333. Other than that I can't really think of anything that distinguishes the UD5s... I haven't encountered anyone with a Rev 3.0 that I know of, but I haven't heard of any issues with them either. The Rev 1.1s have a very solid reputation, and that's the majority of what's on the market right now, as come to think of it, I don't think I ever encountered someone with a Rev 2 either.
> 
> Given what other boards cost and the track records some of them have, I would recommend either a UD5 or an ASUS Sabertooth R2.0... they're about the same price, and arguably two of the *best 3 or 4 990FX* boards on the market.


Indeed I have had one gigabyte board in the past...but that's exactly why I was pointing my interests to a REV 3.0, which has UEFI (dual UEFI according to gigabyte site). Problem is I just cannot find one here in Europe...and the rev 1.1 are already just a tad more expensive than Sabertooth R.2.0...What are the other two of the best 4 990FX?


----------



## miklkit

My experiences with software overclocking this year are bad.

AMD OverDrive: Set it to 4.4ghz and it ran fine. Tried 4 different games and 1 ran better, 2 ran worse, and 1 would not run at all.

Gigabyte Easy Tune with Easy Boost: It came on the installation disc. I let Easy Boost run and it liked 4.6ghz and it ran fine. Tried the 4 games and 1 ran better, 2 worse, and 1 not at all. Oc'ed to 4.5 in bios and turned off all of the power saving stuff, then ran EB again. Same results as the 1st time.

I've got 16gb of G.Skill ram @ 1600mhz. Never touched it and both the bios and CPUZ agree it is running at 1600mhz. Is it worth the bother to mess with it?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> My experiences with software overclocking this year are bad.
> 
> AMD OverDrive: Set it to 4.4ghz and it ran fine. Tried 4 different games and 1 ran better, 2 ran worse, and 1 would not run at all.
> 
> Gigabyte Easy Tune with Easy Boost: It came on the installation disc. I let Easy Boost run and it liked 4.6ghz and it ran fine. Tried the 4 games and 1 ran better, 2 worse, and 1 not at all. Oc'ed to 4.5 in bios and turned off all of the power saving stuff, then ran EB again. Same results as the 1st time.
> 
> I've got 16gb of G.Skill ram @ 1600mhz. Never touched it and both the bios and CPUZ agree it is running at 1600mhz. Is it worth the bother to mess with it?


Fine tuning your ram is mainly for tweakers and benchmarkers. Your not really going to see any real world gains.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Well, I have provided enough technical information why BIOS is IMHO not so good to overclock and why software overclock has it reason. I can repeat myself but of course you can oc how you want. But from him or yours posting I can't see anymore insight then just always the same argument from authority. And you should know when you pass an exam semantic is important because what first count is formalism.


An I also posted that I agree with you its faster and provided why I feel why the BIOS is better and like I said in that post its user preference there is no wrong way to do it. So yeah you "repeating" yourself would really just be you wasting your breath.

As for semantics, I've passed enough of those tests to get my pieces of paper that say I know what I'm doing. Passing an exam is way different than how things work in the real world. In the real world if someone says CMOS or BIOS or even UEFI someone that knows what they are doing should know what they mean. "Correcting" them wasn't helpful, seemed more snooty to me than anything, as I said bickering over semantics is not helping.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> @ Ozzy
> 
> Okay than you will be satisfied with the h100i than
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I let you know when i sell it


Definitely let me know! I'm interested!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> My experiences with software overclocking this year are bad.
> 
> AMD OverDrive: Set it to 4.4ghz and it ran fine. Tried 4 different games and 1 ran better, 2 ran worse, and 1 would not run at all.
> 
> Gigabyte Easy Tune with Easy Boost: It came on the installation disc. I let Easy Boost run and it liked 4.6ghz and it ran fine. Tried the 4 games and 1 ran better, 2 worse, and 1 not at all. Oc'ed to 4.5 in bios and turned off all of the power saving stuff, then ran EB again. Same results as the 1st time.
> 
> I've got 16gb of G.Skill ram @ 1600mhz. Never touched it and both the bios and CPUZ agree it is running at 1600mhz. Is it worth the bother to mess with it?


The things I've run into with software overclocking makes me feel its not feesable. If you change something and the machine hardlocks, this is especially true if you are messing with memory timings, you have to reboot anyways. At that point might as well do it in the BIOS.

I've also had it to where the program would fail to load so all that work overclocking was wasted. The BIOS will load it each and every time unless of course you really screw something up lol

The issue I have with it on this current build is voltages. AMD OD is reporting stock voltages when I definitely am not running stock volts. That makes it dangerous. Oh look I'm running stock volts! When in actuality it could really be 1.6v. Oh sure Hardware Monitor shows the correct voltage but by the time you get to looking at it, it could be to late. The time you spend in AMD OD screwing around thinking things were fine could be deadly.

However guys like Recursion like it and hey that's cool. If it works for them and they don't mind the short comings more power to them.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> And bickering over semantics is accomplishing what? When someone says UEFI, I know they are referring too. The terminology and interface has changed, the base of what it does is has not











OZZY,
_*JUST Part of*_ why I stopped responding to him. I really tried to be nice, not take the bait, he was just primed to fight no matter what.
A lot more I could have said. Stones I could have thrown (back). To what end? Better just to move on. I said I was done and I'm going to stick with that.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> The things I've run into with software overclocking makes me feel its not feesable. If you change something and the machine hardlocks, this is especially true if you are messing with memory timings, you have to reboot anyways. At that point might as well do it in the BIOS.
> 
> I've also had it to where the program would fail to load so all that work overclocking was wasted. The BIOS will load it each and every time unless of course you really screw something up lol
> 
> The issue I have with it on this current build is voltages. AMD OD is reporting stock voltages when I definitely am not running stock volts. That makes it dangerous. Oh look I'm running stock volts! When in actuality it could really be 1.6v. Oh sure Hardware Monitor shows the correct voltage but by the time you get to looking at it, it could be to late. The time you spend in AMD OD screwing around thinking things were fine could be deadly.
> 
> However guys like Recursion like it and hey that's cool. If it works for them and they don't mind the short comings more power to them.


Agreed, "Each to his his own" works for me.


----------



## miklkit

Oops! Didn't mean to restart that mess.









I found this thread and thought it might interest some of you. I wonder what it takes to get on that list.

http://www.overclock.net/a/database-of-motherboard-vrm-failure-incidents


----------



## hurricane28

i let you know ozzy


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Oops! Didn't mean to restart that mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this thread and thought it might interest some of you. I wonder what it takes to get on that list.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/a/database-of-motherboard-vrm-failure-incidents


Mine hasn't failed yet! Probably would have if I hadn't found the cause of the issue. Though I don't know how long it will continue to work.

There is a disturbingly large amount of MSI boards on that list. Note to self, don't buy an MSI board.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> i let you know ozzy


Thank you sir!


----------



## hurricane28

Yw dude,

Also i was trying to test my RAM and i have memtest 4.1 i think but it does not recognizes my RAM correctly because it says it is 1600 RAM at 1-3-3-3 timings LOL

is there a version that works well?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I've had that problem before. It didn't appear to affect its ability to test though. Looks like the latest is 4.2 maybe give it a shot.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Oops! Didn't mean to restart that mess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found this thread and thought it might interest some of you. I wonder what it takes to get on that list.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/a/database-of-motherboard-vrm-failure-incidents


If you scroll at the bottom of the list, there is a scrolling bar. If you scroll to the right, you ll see what it takes. Usually, smoke and fire. You see, VRM is what modulates the current delivery to the CPU. So "fails", means usually something catastrophic, like mofset bursts and conseguences can be a fried processor too, as more current can pass towards the CPU. That's why you see at the extreme right column "fire, burst, fried".


----------



## hurricane28

oke well i have to try it, thnx


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Wonder if Gigabyte would be liable for damages if the motherboard burns my house down.


----------



## Hellsrage

They'll just say other "reviewers" said it was fine and say you did something wrong or maybe they'll say their people can't replicate the problem....


----------



## hurricane28

haha now you are being real extra ozzy









But i hear ya man i would be bloody pist too if that happened to me


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> They'll just say other "reviewers" said it was fine and say you did something wrong or maybe they'll say their people can't replicate the problem....


I think you are closer to the truth than we care to admit! lol I could see the court case now, "no your honor, the other reviewers on Newegg say it's fine!"

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> haha now you are being real extra ozzy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But i hear ya man i would be bloody pist too if that happened to me


Man if this thing catches on fire I will be the guy they wish they had never met. I have to much free time as you guys can see! lol


----------



## hurricane28

haha that's funny because i am the same way man and i live in the Netherlands, well my dad was American so that will explain some things









And why did you go by that crappy rev 3.0 anyway? LOL i did some research and found out that the rev 1.1 was the best to go by, but hey some times you have to learn the hard way right









o now you seems to be the VRM expert here, what is an save temp for the VRM on the UD5?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Its funny actually. The first board I received was the 1.1. I had read up on them and was happy I got the good one. But according to it TMPIN1 and TMPIN2 were 70+C all the time and had massive capacitor "squeal" anytime the CPU was underload. I RMA'd it and got this lovely Rev 3 board... I had read it was a pain in the ass but didn't know about the VRM throttling. That I discovered on my own lol.

Honestly I don't even know what the VRM temps are on this steaming turd so I definitely can't make any suggestions on the UD5's safe VRM temps. I'll have to look into getting an IR thermometer I guess and see exactly what the temps are.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> If you scroll at the bottom of the list, there is a scrolling bar. If you scroll to the right, you ll see what it takes. Usually, smoke and fire. You see, VRM is what modulates the current delivery to the CPU. So "fails", means usually something catastrophic, like mofset bursts and conseguences can be a fried processor too, as more current can pass towards the CPU. That's why you see at the extreme right column "fire, burst, fried".


At the bottom there is another section called miscellaneous non-failures. Methinks that is where most of us UD3 victims would be. Mine hasn't completely failed yet, but it is getting worse all the time and I don't want to lose the CPU when, not if, it goes.

Those MSI boards do not have a fail safe that throttles them when they overheat.


----------



## rawsteel

Does anybody know if WINDOWS 7 SP1 still has TLB bug Patch Hotfix which gets installed by mistake even if your using a new AMD CPU. I checked mine with Crystal CPUID im pretty sure it does not have the patch installed but can anybody else confirm that it does not get installed when using an AM3+ Motherboard..?

The problem seems to be that Windows7 and Windows Vista, install a patch designed for AGENA and Barcelona (quadcores PHENOM of the first series that had the defect TLB) on computers that DO NOT NEED (all Phenom II and Athlon series based on the new cores without the TLB bug), causing a dramatic drop in performance.

http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1819009


----------



## Mccaula718

Does anyone have issues with booting into windows? Especially after a restart? It happens at all OCs. My system will hang on the windows 7 logo. Ill restart and it will work sometimes but it often takes multiple restarts before it gets the whole way in.

Another question. I have a 970a-ud3 in my htpc that I can use. The only reason I got a new board with this system was for future xfire support. I do hit the 65* thermal wall that causes throttling during stability testing. Will the 970a not throttle at those temps+?


----------



## hajnalka

8350 4.8Ghz Water cooling WRM, Northbridge,CPU,
100% use all core OCCT

Temperature Water 45C temp cpu 64C Temerature WRM max Laser thermometer is 100C.
Is normal 100C backside motherboard ferrites max 90C?

Video coming


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> 8350 4.8Ghz Water cooling WRM, Northbridge,CPU,
> 100% use all core OCCT
> 
> Temperature Water 45C temp cpu 64C Temerature WRM max Laser thermometer is 100C.
> Is normal 100C backside motherboard ferrites max 90C?
> 
> Video coming


I think i 've read once that mofsets can usually sustain up to 120C. Don't know how true this is, but you 're high... My undervolted 1090T at 100% load, has VRMs at about 55C (measured by IR thermometer). I have Asrock though.

Still, i wouldn't feel comfortable hitting 100C.


----------



## hajnalka

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KYlkflUvFgY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1jptCgAI0o


----------



## miklkit

It's hard to believe that TLB bug is still causing problems after all these years. If nothing else one would think AMD would sue Macroshaft about it.

Mine starts just fine every time. 4.5ghz here.

I know nothing about the 970 but the throttling is a safety device to keep you from burning up the board and CPU. Actually, at that temperature the board warping and pulling the VRMs away from their cooler is the biggest problem. Mine went from throttling at 65C to 62C to 59C. I then put a rubber shim behind it and installed a much better cooler and got it back up to 63C.

I don't know how hot my VRMs run but under normal use the case behind them is cool to the touch but under heavy load it is too hot to touch.

EDIT: Hey I got a reply from Gigabyte! They asked for a picture of the board so I sent them some I took while installing that Thermalright cooler.


----------



## edlook

Is the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128514&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=) a good motherboard to buy for my build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/edlook/saved/1GCK
I want to keep the cost under $1000


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edlook*
> 
> Is the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128514&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=) a good motherboard to buy for my build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/edlook/saved/1GCK
> I want to keep the cost under $1000


NO. See above posts.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It's hard to believe that TLB bug is still causing problems after all these years. If nothing else one would think AMD would sue Macroshaft about it.
> 
> Mine starts just fine every time. 4.5ghz here.
> 
> I know nothing about the 970 but the throttling is a safety device to keep you from burning up the board and CPU. Actually, at that temperature the board warping and pulling the VRMs away from their cooler is the biggest problem. Mine went from throttling at 65C to 62C to 59C. I then put a rubber shim behind it and installed a much better cooler and got it back up to 63C.
> 
> I don't know how hot my VRMs run but under normal use the case behind them is cool to the touch but under heavy load it is too hot to touch.
> 
> EDIT: Hey I got a reply from Gigabyte! They asked for a picture of the board so I sent them some I took while installing that Thermalright cooler.


I'm kind of jealous lol. Its about time they answer someone and don't spew some garbage about Newegg reviews or SATA drivers... Let us know how things go.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edlook*
> 
> Is the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128514&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=) a good motherboard to buy for my build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/edlook/saved/1GCK
> I want to keep the cost under $1000


Spend the extra few dollars for a Asus Sabertooth. Even the UD5 seems to have a good bit of praise. DO NOT TOUCH the UD3.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edlook*
> 
> Is the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128514&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=) a good motherboard to buy for my build: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/edlook/saved/1GCK
> I want to keep the cost under $1000


I would avoid the UD3 like the plague... almost everyone on the thread that has one has been plagued by problems... If you want a budget board around the same price I would recommend the ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0 : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131851


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel*
> 
> Does anybody know if WINDOWS 7 SP1 still has TLB bug Patch Hotfix which gets installed by mistake even if your using a new AMD CPU. I checked mine with Crystal CPUID im pretty sure it does not have the patch installed but can anybody else confirm that it does not get installed when using an AM3+ Motherboard..?
> 
> The problem seems to be that Windows7 and Windows Vista, install a patch designed for AGENA and Barcelona (quadcores PHENOM of the first series that had the defect TLB) on computers that DO NOT NEED (all Phenom II and Athlon series based on the new cores without the TLB bug), causing a dramatic drop in performance.
> 
> http://forums.steampowered.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1819009


yes, I believe so. I noticed an update optional or under hardware for AMD CPU i also noticed it was dated 2009 or 2008 somthing, so I unchecked it as selected the checked the "don't show this one again" box. problem solved. anyway it was not auto-installed (as I permit "important" usually, to be. forinstance IE 10 is still in the declined catagory after having to UNINSTALL IT, when it proved to be still beta and acting like it.

OT: Im on at my moms house. I love her CABLE modem. You just jack in and GO! who knew?


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I would avoid the UD3 like the plague... almost everyone on the thread that has one has been plagued by problems... If you want a budget board around the same price I would recommend the ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0 : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131851


you mean, almost everyone with an 8-core that has attempted to OC much beyond 20 or 25%

after (or aside-from) having to better/re-secure the NB HS I'm still relatively complaint free with my widdle 95w 6-core.


----------



## Pedrozun

hello, I am Brazilian and I am a long time searching Google for a place w / exchanging ideas and ask questions regarding my motherboard that is 990FXA-UD3 rev3.0, and the only place I found was here in this forum. I'm with a doubt, if you can answer me I would be very grateful, the problem is the following:

When I press the power button
the computer turns on, turns on the LEDs.
and it powers off and on again for 2 seconds.
and power off and on the third time and continues to boot normally.

My doubt is if this is normal?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*
> 
> hello, I am Brazilian and I am a long time searching Google for a place w / exchanging ideas and ask questions regarding my motherboard that is 990FXA-UD3 rev3.0, and the only place I found was here in this forum. I'm with a doubt, if you can answer me I would be very grateful, the problem is the following:
> 
> When I press the power button
> the computer turns on, turns on the LEDs.
> and it powers off and on again for 2 seconds.
> and power off and on the third time and continues to boot normally.
> 
> My doubt is if this is normal?


Hey welcome dude









What are your settings and what is your hardware?

Pls put your sig in rigbuilder on the top right side of this thread on the black line so that we can help you better


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hey welcome dude
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are your settings and what is your hardware?
> 
> Pls put your sig in rigbuilder on the top right side of this thread on the black line so that we can help you better


Done broh









I'm not overclocking, but I have disabled all options like cool n quiet, C1E, C6
and put all the clock manually removing the automatic. it was an attempt to fix the clock in 3.3mhz because the multiplier is ranging from 7 to 16.50 ¬ ¬ '
but the processor clock continues oscillating (that's another issue).
I wonder if my boot is normal or not


----------



## hurricane28

Disable APM mode in the bios and see how that gos.

Also u must know that in CPU-Z u always see little fluctuation i have the same thing and there is nothing what u can do about that.


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Disable APM mode in the bios and see how that gos.
> 
> Also u must know that in CPU-Z u always see little fluctuation i have the same thing and there is nothing what u can do about that.


This is another problem ... idk where I disable APM on this motherboard, already searched all BIOS menus :\

"that in CPU-Z u always see little fluctuation" little ? lol my clock speed go to 1.4ghz from 3.3ghz o.o

if you want a print just ask.

What about the boot? starts 2 times before switching completely , normal or not ?

thanks for the replys guys


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

I have a question im running the ud5 rev 3.0 board. Ive read about stabilizing the nb to get good oc results, but to stabilize the nb i i have to increase the nb volt to 1.3 on air ive read. But in the latest bios there isnt a option for that i think? The options i got for the bios is:

-Ht link voltage

-Nb/Pcie/PLL voltage

-Cpu pLL Voltage

-Nb core

-Vcore Loadline calibration

Is it the -Nb core voltage i need to put at 1.3v? And run my nb at like 2600mhz along with the ht at 2600mhz?

All the voltage options ive written above i have left at auto. And i have a overclock at 4.73ghz. I want to stabilize my nb to reach higher htt(fsb) clock. My htt(fsb) max speed to oc is like 207-208, and i see ppl run at 230, how is that possible?

Thanx in advice!


----------



## hurricane28

Ah i see, u have the rev 3.0 LOL

I don't know if it has that feature tho, mostly the fluctuation is caused by cool n quiet.

And for the boot issue sounds to me like faulty PSU but i am not sure, do u have other problems? like temps or blue screens?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> I have a question im running the ud5 rev 3.0 board. Ive read about stabilizing the nb to get good oc results, but to stabilize the nb i i have to increase the nb volt to 1.3 on air ive read. But in the latest bios there isnt a option for that i think? The options i got for the bios is:
> 
> -Ht link voltage
> 
> -Nb/Pcie/PLL voltage
> 
> -Cpu pLL Voltage
> 
> -Nb core
> 
> -Vcore Loadline calibration
> 
> Is it the -Nb core voltage i need to put at 1.3v? And run my nb at like 2600mhz along with the ht at 2600mhz?
> 
> All the voltage options ive written above i have left at auto. And i have a overclock at 4.73ghz. I want to stabilize my nb to reach higher htt(fsb) clock. My htt(fsb) max speed to oc is like 207-208, and i see ppl run at 230, how is that possible?
> 
> Thanx in advice!


Hi,

I have the UD5 rev 1.1 and here are my settings:

FSB is set to 257

HT link is at 2570 and CPUNB too.

Voltages are: CPU PLL voltage control 2.695, DRAM voltage control 1.655, NB voltage control is set to 1.200 volts That will stabilize the NB.

HT link voltage control is set to 1.325 and NB/PCI-E PLL voltage control is set to 1.895

CPU NB VID control +0.200 that makes 1.3875 volts on the CPU NB.

I don't know much about the rev 3.0 of this board but it should be pretty much the same except the bios is different.

Also when you do these things make sure you monitor your temps because the VRM of this board can heat up pretty fast with those volts.

Hope this will help u some


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ah i see, u have the rev 3.0 LOL
> 
> I don't know if it has that feature tho, mostly the fluctuation is caused by cool n quiet.
> 
> And for the boot issue sounds to me like faulty PSU but i am not sure, do u have other problems? like temps or blue screens?


I recently installed 4 fans with red led xtraflo coolermaster and removed a corsair h80 for RMA.
Nope, the system runs perfect. and the temps ->


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*
> 
> I recently installed 4 fans with red led xtraflo coolermaster and removed a corsair h80 for RMA.
> Nope, the system runs perfect. and the temps ->


looks good to me, so the only thing i can come up with is a faulty PSU.

How old is it? or is it new one?


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> looks good to me, so the only thing i can come up with is a faulty PSU.
> 
> How old is it? or is it new one?


hmm.. i buyed at dezember 2012, i dont remender the day


----------



## miklkit

The bios always "hunts" and restarts several times on startup when the bios has been changed. Mine started doing it with the first changes. This was discussed here 50-100 pages ago.

My UD3 is messed up after a 10% overclock. It will do that with stock voltages too.


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*
> 
> hmm.. i buyed at dezember 2012, i dont remender the day


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The bios always "hunts" and restarts several times on startup when the bios has been changed. Mine started doing it with the first changes. This was discussed here 50-100 pages ago.
> 
> My UD3 is messed up after a 10% overclock. It will do that with stock voltages too.


i'm br x_x
not quite understand, this is normal or not?

whenever you change the settings of the bios it will happen?

thanks for the reply


----------



## bond32

UD5 has been a great board. I have actually decided to get the Asus cross hair formula instead. While more expensive it offers so many more features. Also i noticed on the ud5, the heatsinks still get very hot almost too hot.


----------



## ebduncan

I removed my Ud3 last night from my computer.

The on board networking card went bad. I replaced it with a ASUS Crosshair Formula Z. Guess I will start that long process called RMA.

Once if I get my replacement, if anyone is looking for a motherboard for cheap contact me, it will be for sale.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*
> 
> i'm br x_x
> not quite understand, this is normal or not?
> 
> whenever you change the settings of the bios it will happen?
> 
> thanks for the reply


You will get a double reboot if you change the settings to overclock the CPU in the BIOS. Yes it's normal, unfortunately.


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> You will get a double reboot if you change the settings to overclock the CPU in the BIOS. Yes it's normal, unfortunately.


and a trial reboot? '-'

i click power 1 time.

they turn on and off for 1 sec, after this, they turn on for 2 sec. and disarm, and after this they boot normal.

this is right ?


----------



## Pedrozun

Hellrage, I read a lot that you talk about ga-990fxa but never talked to you, it's a pleasure to meet you


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Do you have your CPU multiplier on anything other than auto? Mine only does the on-off-on stuff when I have my CPU multiplier changed. Its said to be "normal" though this is the only board I've had to ever do it...


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Do you have your CPU multiplier on anything other than auto? Mine only does the on-off-on stuff when I have my CPU multiplier changed. Its said to be "normal" though this is the only board I've had to ever do it...


i set the multiplier manual. removed from auto to manual(16.50). this is the answer?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*
> 
> Hellrage, I read a lot that you talk about ga-990fxa but never talked to you, it's a pleasure to meet you


Yeah I sorta went on a mission to spread the word about all the issues we are having with this board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Do you have your CPU multiplier on anything other than auto? Mine only does the on-off-on stuff when I have my CPU multiplier changed. Its said to be "normal" though this is the only board I've had to ever do it...


What Ozzy says is correct if you have changed the setting in the BIOS it will boot like that.

Well I just called the number that Gigabyte support gave me for RMAs and to be honest I have no idea who the person was or what his job was. I was told to hit option "4" so I did and the guys just answers with "Hello?" for a second there I thought I was redirected to some strangers phone number. I told the guy I was given his number and he replied by directing me to Gigabytes website for RMAs.

I don't know what the hell is going on but I don't think I want anything to do with Gigabyte anymore, even when they tell me to RMA the thing I get taken for a ride around a circle.


----------



## LicSqualo

Hi all,
I'm new and i have (a lot) appreciate this thread.
I have found more tricks to set my overclocking with FX-8350.
I'm also italian... so, sorry for my English.
I have a question about my board, a 990fxa-ud7 rev1.0 (MyRig profile specify what is my configuration)
My settings are:
CNQ, C1, C1E, APM Turbo and HTM all disabled
Clock CPU: 4736 Mhz (x18,5)
HTT: 256 mhz
NB 2304 & HT 2816
Ram @2048 Mhz 1,5V
CPU PLL 2,600 V
CPU VID +0,225 (1,58 in bios, 1,488 V in windows -low load cpu- and minimum 1,37 V under maximum load, like IBT test)
CPU-NB VID +0,300 but not changed from 1,36
All the others settings are on "normal".

The questions is: I cannot change the CPU-NB Vid. It's normal?

(the value is always 1.363 and only with turbo option enabled it change to 1.41)
And can a bios release solve this? Because via AMD Overdrive is possible to change this value.
But for me, personally, i prefer to change the motherboard setting via bios.
Thanks to all,


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*
> 
> i set the multiplier manual. removed from auto to manual(16.50). this is the answer?


Yes sir that would be the cause. If you put it back on auto it will stop acting like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Yeah I sorta went on a mission to spread the word about all the issues we are having with this board.
> What Ozzy says is correct if you have changed the setting in the BIOS it will boot like that.
> 
> Well I just called the number that Gigabyte support gave me for RMAs and to be honest I have no idea who the person was or what his job was. I was told to hit option "4" so I did and the guys just answers with "Hello?" for a second there I thought I was redirected to some strangers phone number. I told the guy I was given his number and he replied by directing me to Gigabytes website for RMAs.
> 
> I don't know what the hell is going on but I don't think I want anything to do with Gigabyte anymore, even when they tell me to RMA the thing I get taken for a ride around a circle.


They certainly have their game faces on. Its like they enjoy mocking us. I definitely will not ever buy anything from them again. This boards problems and their support is just absurd. There is no reason for this, and DEFINITELY no reason for them to give the responses they have. I've had companies bend over backward over stupid little issues and they have made a life long customer of me. Gigabyte however, is ignoring this major issue and treating us like a booger on the underside of the table.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> They certainly have their game faces on. Its like they enjoy mocking us. I definitely will not ever buy anything from them again. This boards problems and their support is just absurd. There is no reason for this, and DEFINITELY no reason for them to give the responses they have. I've had companies bend over backward over stupid little issues and they have made a life long customer of me. Gigabyte however, is ignoring this major issue and treating us like a booger on the underside of the table.


I've never had an experience like this one, it's certainly been a weird ride and not one I'll be jumping on again.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have the UD5 rev 1.1 and here are my settings:
> 
> FSB is set to 257
> 
> HT link is at 2570 and CPUNB too.
> 
> Voltages are: CPU PLL voltage control 2.695, DRAM voltage control 1.655, NB voltage control is set to 1.200 volts That will stabilize the NB.
> 
> HT link voltage control is set to 1.325 and NB/PCI-E PLL voltage control is set to 1.895
> 
> CPU NB VID control +0.200 that makes 1.3875 volts on the CPU NB.
> 
> I don't know much about the rev 3.0 of this board but it should be pretty much the same except the bios is different.
> 
> Also when you do these things make sure you monitor your temps because the VRM of this board can heat up pretty fast with those volts.
> 
> Hope this will help u some


Hi! Thanx for your answer! IM amazed that you can have fsb at 257, i can only have it at 205-207 max!!!!!!! Why is there such a difference,i must be doin something important wrong! I dont got the CPU NB VID control setting at my voltages settings so cant change that. Your NB voltage setting is that the same as my NB Core setting? IM thinking about how there can be such difference in fsb setting, WHAT AM I DOIN WRONG? I feel like a noob.

I Googled and searched and found out the Nb core isnt the CPU NB. So i have to wait for a newer bioversion with that option!

Took a picture of my voltages options in latest bios for the ud5 rev 3.0:

http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/3106/biosv.jpg


----------



## FiatluX

Concerning the on-off-on boot, I had the multiplier OC set manually and went auto for about ½ day.. Tried some things with the bus speed and eventually went back to manual and how it was before, odd thing is the on-off-on boot has disappeared completely.. Only other new thing was that I set my cpu fan to PWM and not auto! Go figure..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I gave it a shot it didn't make a difference for me unfortunately.


----------



## Hellsrage

Well I went ahead and made a post on Gigabyte USA's Facebook, If you have had trouble too and are okay posting to their page I recommend you do. I think sharing our issues on their public channels may be our only hope of actually getting anything done.

https://www.facebook.com/GIGABYTE.US?v=wall&ref=search

OT, I had a good time with Sapphires support yesterday, it was also the fastest support I've ever had, I got a reply with 2 hours and everything was worked out in 4 hours.


----------



## miklkit

Have you ever played Half Life 2? Early on before you have any weapons you meet a Civil Protection blocking your way. He knocks a soda can onto the ground and tells you to pick it up and put it in the trash. Haha. He works for Gigabyte.

I sent them the pics they requested and and got another reply. They want pics showing the warpage now. So I get to pull it out again..........
My strategy with them is to rant and then play kissy face and stroke their ego. They certainly do look down their noses at us and unless they give me a UD5 my next board will be an MSI GD80.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Well I went ahead and made a post on Gigabyte USA's Facebook, If you have had trouble too and are okay posting to their page I recommend you do. I think sharing our issues on their public channels may be our only hope of actually getting anything done.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/GIGABYTE.US?v=wall&ref=search
> 
> OT, I had a good time with Sapphires support yesterday, it was also the fastest support I've ever had, I got a reply with 2 hours and everything was worked out in 4 hours.


Looks like they deleted you already lol. I read back to May 20th's posts by people and don't see anything about the UD3 being a steaming turd lol


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Have you ever played Half Life 2? Early on before you have any weapons you meet a Civil Protection blocking your way. He knocks a soda can onto the ground and tells you to pick it up and put it in the trash. Haha. He works for Gigabyte.
> 
> I sent them the pics they requested and and got another reply. They want pics showing the warpage now. So I get to pull it out again..........
> My strategy with them is to rant and then play kissy face and stroke their ego. They certainly do look down their noses at us and unless they give me a UD5 my next board will be an MSI GD80.


That part of the game is funny. I always bounce the can off his head then run away lol.

They won't even respond to me anymore lol. You need all the pics I've taken? I'll send them to you if you do.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Looks like they deleted you already lol. I read back to May 20th's posts by people and don't see anything about the UD3 being a steaming turd lol


Wow, what a bunch of cowards if that's the case. When I check the page I see it but maybe that's because I'm logged in, I should be the latest poster.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> That part of the game is funny. I always bounce the can off his head then run away lol.
> 
> They won't even respond to me anymore lol. You need all the pics I've taken? I'll send them to you if you do.


I thought about using the pics you posted, but want to take my own with the board half out of the case just in case they are keeping yours on file. Mine was warped about as badly as yours and I'm kinda curious about how well that hard rubber foot is holding up.


----------



## Recursion

I think you should give them some time and hope it's a bios thing. I have read here on this site similar issue with intel mainboards and they wrote the vrm are usually very oversized and good for temperature up to 130-140°C. Most likely the tdp is limited to a safety value and by software. Of course the warping and the fact that ozzy has found a solution is rather strange but after all Gigabytes has the special knowledge building mainboard? Me too I think the vrm thingy isn't really a good solution because the mainboard is something special with is 2x pci-e 16 lanes and 990FX chipset?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Wow, what a bunch of cowards if that's the case. When I check the page I see it but maybe that's because I'm logged in, I should be the latest poster.


This is what I see when I go to the site. They may have it hidden from the rest of us.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I think you should give them some time and hope it's a bios thing. I have read here on this site similar issue with intel mainboards and they wrote the vrm are usually very oversized and good for temperature up to 130-140°C. Most likely the tdp is limited to a safety value and by software. Of course the warping and the fact that ozzy has found a solution is rather strange but after all Gigabytes has the special knowledge building mainboard? Me too I think the vrm thingy isn't really a good solution because the mainboard is something special with is 2x pci-e 16 lanes and 990FX chipset?


It's hard to believe that it's too low of a tdp limit when the things are getting so hot it's causing the board to warp. I'm looking into getting an ir thermometer to see just how hot my enzotech is getting. Even with that fan of mine turning 6k rpm it's still to hot to touch. This in my opinion based on my findings is not something software will fix.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> This is what I see when I go to the site. They may have it hidden from the rest of us.


They have it hidden then, this is just pathetic.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yeah I don't see it on my computer either. I thought maybe it was the mobile site but nope same exact thing on the PC. I'm not surprised at all actually.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

That's just pathetic and shady man... From how Gigabyte has handled all of this mess and basically dumped a steamy turd they like to claim as "customer service" in your laps.... I think I'm going to have to alter my build plans. I was looking at a pair of their OC 7970s for xfire since AMD is releasing the patch to fix the frametime/stutter issue later this month or early next... I'll gladly give another AMD licensed GPU designer my money instead, and gladly buy Sabertooth/ROG boards from ASUS after this build gets retired/passed on.

I'm actually beginning to wonder if the UD5's start to wear out overtime as well... My board temps have been higher than usual the last few days despite the unseasonably cooler temps we've had here in Ohio. I had my tower running overnight running a free disk space wipe with CCleaner and my tower smelled hot in the morning when I woke up. You know, that smell that molasses and maple syrup gets as you heat it up, the same smell that tells you something electronic is getting too hot... Yeah. I've not run my tower more than an hour at a time and lowered it back to stock clocks to help fight whatever the issue may be, but it certainly worries me. I didn't think to have HWinfo running while I did the wipe, but the next time I have it run, I'll leave that open and se what it tells me after he towers been on for the 8-10 hours it takes to wipe the 2+ TB of blank space I have... I just hope nothing fries itself up on me... I can't afford having to replace anything right now.


----------



## Red1776

i'm In gang
















New validation. I am working on a review benching between 4.8 and 5.3GHz my 24/7 is 5200MHz P95/OCCT/IBT stable etc


http://valid.canardpc.com/2824227





2.2Kw Holodeck 7

[email protected]
Gigabyte GA-990-FXA-UD7 (rev 1.1)
16GB Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133 MHz
4 X HD 7970 Quadfire
1x Corsiar AX1200W
2x FSP Group X5 500W =1000W (total wattage/Amperage 2200w/180A
1XNexXxos XT45mm x 360mm Rads
2 x NexXxos XT45mm x 240mm Rads
1x NexXxos XT45mm x 120mm Rads
3X VPP-655 Pumps
1X Phobya DC-12-400 Pump
Koolance 370 CPU Block
4 x Heatkiller GPU X-3 Waterblocks
Rad Fans: Coolermaster Excalibur
Bitspower & Monsoon Fittings
Primochill Advanced LRT Tubing
Case CoolerMaster Cosmos 2
Heatkiller X-3 Multilink Quad Bridge
BitsPower Z-Multi 250mML Reservoir
Eyefinity 3+1 Extended 5760 x 1080-25" Monitors

BTW, I did a review comparing the GA-990FXA-UD7 Revision 1.0 to the Revision 1.1 if anyone care to have a look (LLC VS Non-LLC) versions

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/gigabyte_990fxaud7/


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

^^^^







That is a wicked nice build man... S***, I'll be happy once I get my dual GPU build later this year.... I would love to be able to afford a 4-way xfire of 7970s... Can you say gaming/boincing/folding a$$-kicker?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> ^^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is a wicked nice build man... S***, I'll be happy once I get my dual GPU build later this year.... I would love to be able to afford a 4-way xfire of 7970s... Can you say gaming/boincing/folding a$$-kicker?


Thanks Spaceman








I dread the thought of the electric bill from 4 7970's and three PSU's folding full time, yikes

It is fun though


----------



## riemann42

I have a UD3 Rev 3, and of course I have the same issues with heat and the VRM. So I have some options:

1) Use Spare Video card screws to just secure the heatsink better.

2) Add a fan to the VRM. I don't like this option because it fails both aesthetically and acoustically.

3) Put it under water. I don't love this, as the cost would end up, with fittings and the like, to be about $150. Also, the only WB I can find is the clear acrylic top, which does not go with my theme (black WC parts).

4) Replace the board with a UD5.

I think I will go with option 1 sometime soon. The real question is do I put the VRM under water or do I buy a UD5?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Even if you use screws to secure it you still need to check for warping, If the heatsink isn't touching the center VRM's like a lot of us have had the screws won't do any good. Also you are going to need a fan on the heatsink. Even my forged copper unit alone was not enough to remedy the throttling. Adding a fan did, however the heatsink remains ridiculously hot even when the fan is at its highest speed.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> It's hard to believe that it's too low of a tdp limit when the things are getting so hot it's causing the board to warp. I'm looking into getting an ir thermometer to see just how hot my enzotech is getting. Even with that fan of mine turning 6k rpm it's still to hot to touch. This in my opinion based on my findings is not something software will fix.


You can read about Gigabyte X79 workstation mainboard and throttelling and how it's been solved: http://www.overclock.net/t/1311260/review-of-gigabytes-2nd-gen-x79-workstation-mb-x79s-up5/30.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> You can read about Gigabyte X79 workstation mainboard and throttelling and how it's been solved: http://www.overclock.net/t/1311260/review-of-gigabytes-2nd-gen-x79-workstation-mb-x79s-up5/30.


Well my first point would be its not a X79 workstation motherboard we are working with, not exactly an apples to apples comparison. My second point would be the heat is so intense our boards are warping, how do you propose we raise the thermal limits in the software and avoid that from happening? You can't take something that can't take the heat now and add more to it, that is just asking for more problems.

If you want to believe that this will be fixed by a BIOS update you go ahead and wait for it. It was supposed to be released 2 months ago... I assure you Gigabyte knows this issue isn't a software fix, that is why the BIOS fix isn't released and its why they are avoiding the issue like the plague. If you want to fix the throttling the proper way put adequate cooling on the VRM's or risk premature board failure.

The guys in the link are saying the VRM sink isn't even lukewarm. Mine is the exact opposite. It is stupidly, ******edly, burns you finger instantly if you are dumb enough to touch it HOT.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> If you want to believe that this will be fixed by a BIOS update you go ahead and wait for it. It was supposed to be released 2 months ago... I assure you Gigabyte knows this issue isn't a software fix, that is why the BIOS fix isn't released and its why they are avoiding the issue like the plague. If you want to fix the throttling the proper way put adequate cooling on the VRM's or risk premature board failure.


Yup, last thing I remember was it was going trough verification, guess it failed.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> The guys in the link are saying the VRM sink isn't even lukewarm. Mine is the exact opposite. It is stupidly, ******edly, burns you finger instantly if you are dumb enough to touch it HOT.


I just wanted to show you the thread and I think the guys does an excellent job and they got it fixed. I don't want to kick the can down the road and hence I hope Gigabyte will fix this soon? But either way my vrm is not getting so hot I have only a quadcore. Currently I'm happy with my mainboard. I would appreciate a bios update though?


----------



## levontraut

hi guys.

i have the ud5 and running 32 gig of ram

the dims i have are rated at 1866 but they only seem to be running at 1333

does anyone know how to change it that i can run it at the speed they are ment to pls?

i have done a small overclock but it seems to crash after a while BUT that also might be because i got cool and quiet on in the bios.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> hi guys.
> 
> i have the ud5 and running 32 gig of ram
> 
> the dims i have are rated at 1866 but they only seem to be running at 1333
> 
> does anyone know how to change it that i can run it at the speed they are ment to pls?
> 
> i have done a small overclock but it seems to crash after a while BUT that also might be because i got cool and quiet on in the bios.


To get your memory running at rated speeds Do the following in BIOS:

Disable DRAM EOCP
Set memory multiplier to manual, x9.33
Enter the DRAM configurations menu and set the latencies to the factory standard on the RAM sticker/packaging
Make sure your system voltage control is set to manual
Manually set the DRAM voltage to the factory specs, most likely 1.5V
F10, save and exit.

If it doesn't post, go back into BIOS, make sure your changes are still there and bump the CPU/NB Voltage up one notch, then save, exit and reboot... that should do it for you.

As far as the minor overclock crashing your system that wouldn't be because of Cool n Quiet being on. When you try to get your ram set, check and write down all of your bios settings that aren't manual and post them here... If it isn't something fairly obvious there's a chance you have a hardware issue and I'm sure between all of us here we'll be able to help you troubleshoot it.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> I have a UD3 Rev 3, and of course I have the same issues with heat and the VRM. So I have some options:
> 
> 1) Use Spare Video card screws to just secure the heatsink better.
> 
> 2) Add a fan to the VRM. I don't like this option because it fails both aesthetically and acoustically.
> 
> 3) Put it under water. I don't love this, as the cost would end up, with fittings and the like, to be about $150. Also, the only WB I can find is the clear acrylic top, which does not go with my theme (black WC parts).
> 
> 4) Replace the board with a UD5.
> 
> I think I will go with option 1 sometime soon. The real question is do I put the VRM under water or do I buy a UD5?


I have the UD5 Rev 1.1 and it's been a great performer for me. The troubles I thought I might have had brewing turned out not to be a motherboard temp problem, but rather a chassis fan wire going bad. For some reason that was causing the off readings in HWinfo I mentioned in a post earlier this morning (or perhaps yesterday?). Replaced the bad chassis fan, gave everything a thorough once over, air cleaned the whole tower, and watched everything like a hawk as I put it through a 15 iteration IBT run and a 2 hour run of prime95 without any flag raising readings or smells, lol.

In the long run, if you have either a 6 or 8 core (especially the 8 cores) and want to do some decent OCs (15% or above) you're probably going to be better served with just upgrading to the UD5 or the ASUS Sabertooth R2.0... they're definitely better boards at about the same price, and given the way Gigabyte has handled this for most of the people here with UD3s... personally, I'm with them and won't give another dime to Gigabyte.

Also, use rigbuilder ( http://www.overclock.net/lists/component/manage/type/RIG ) and enter what all you have in your tower, then place your rig into your signature so it's easier for people here to know what you're working with and be able to give you better advice, faster.

Welcome to OCN, man.


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> In the long run, if you have either a 6 or 8 core (especially the 8 cores) and want to do some decent OCs (15% or above) you're probably going to be better served with just upgrading to the UD5 or the ASUS Sabertooth R2.0... they're definitely better boards at about the same price, and given the way Gigabyte has handled this for most of the people here with UD3s... personally, I'm with them and won't give another dime to Gigabyte.


I am leaning this way. It seems ridiculous to watercool your VRM when only trying to do a modest overclock. I purchased this MB because of the looks. I'll admit it. My system is a work of art (will add pics soon). I spent a great deal of time on cable management and sleeving. I didn't do a "world class" job, but I did the best job I can do. Honestly, if I could get a black acetal top WB for the VRM I would buy it today, just because I could make it look good.

I would return the board today, if it weren't for the fact that an accident (involving a substance that is legal in my state) caused me to remove a PCIe video card (it was in the wrong slot) without releasing the clip, resulting in... well, you can guess. Ended up cutting all the header pins off and super-gluing the plastic part back on to cover the mistake.

I am thinking of buying a UD5 because:

1) Similar drivers, so less likelihood of a reinstall.

2) I can go over the blue with a black marker, I guess. Or mask it and paint just the blue white.

3) Similar layout for cables (not in the mood to recrimp and resleeve).

4) I have (personally) never had issues with GB. My board just won't OC like I want it too. If the UD5 works well, then why not go with it?

Thanks! I am a lurker by nature, as when I talk, I ramble and don't say much.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I just wanted to show you the thread and I think the guys does an excellent job and they got it fixed. I don't want to kick the can down the road and hence I hope Gigabyte will fix this soon? But either way my vrm is not getting so hot I have only a quadcore. Currently I'm happy with my mainboard. I would appreciate a bios update though?


Well I'd say get to emailing them about it but I think you will find their "support" lacking. As Hellsrage said, It must not have passed validation. Its over 2 months overdue.


----------



## Pedrozun

Hi guys, what is yours NB temperature? im testing full load and in 6 min my north bridge get 68ºC









see the print 

im using stock config


----------



## miklkit

I THINK my north bridge runs about the same as my CPU. They throttle at 63C. There are aftermarket NB coolers that might help. Some are heat pipe towers and some have fans.


----------



## Pedrozun

whats the limit temp for nb ?


----------



## levontraut

Hi guys.

i am stumped now.

my setup is as follows.

mobo: 990fx UD5
cpu: FX 8350
ram: 4 x 8 1866 corsair vengance (32 gig total)
psu: corsair ax 860
gpu: evga 670
ssd: crusial M500 240 gig
hdd: 3 x 1 tera wd blacks

now my problem is i can nto seem to update the drivers to the latest version. i ahve the REV1.x board

has anyoen got a link to a silent installer instead of the drivers detect thing pls?

it seems to be that since i have the big hdd's i can nto so windows updates..


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> i am stumped now.
> 
> my setup is as follows.
> 
> mobo: 990fx UD5
> cpu: FX 8350
> ram: 4 x 8 1866 corsair vengance (32 gig total)
> psu: corsair ax 860
> gpu: evga 670
> ssd: crusial M500 240 gig
> hdd: 3 x 1 tera wd blacks
> 
> now my problem is i can nto seem to update the drivers to the latest version. i ahve the REV1.x board
> 
> has anyoen got a link to a silent installer instead of the drivers detect thing pls?
> 
> it seems to be that since i have the big hdd's i can nto so windows updates..


Try putting in the Gigabyte utility and drivers disc and make sure that you have the 3+ TB support enabled... who knows?

After that, I would suggest doing a system restore back before you starting having these issues and then update the driver's for all your add-on hardware directly from the manufacturer's sites and see if that helps you narrow down which drivers are causing the conflict.

As far as updating drivers, go through the manufacturers site for your major components first, and then see if that helps fix the situation.

The problems you're having sound similar to what I was having, sort of the BSODs caused by a bad DIMM.

I had to completely wipe the old drive as the Windows sys files on it were corrupted by driver conflicts as well... that seems to be a pretty likely culprit for what is happening for you.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*
> 
> Hi guys, what is yours NB temperature? im testing full load and in 6 min my north bridge get 68ºC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> see the print
> 
> im using stock config


If you have everything set at stock, then that's way too hot for you're CPU to be getting, even at full load. First, try scaling down your CPU VCore in BIOS to the minimum it needs to boot and run. Also make sure you have Turbo disabled. You shouldn't be seeing a VCore of 1.428V and temps that high. Make sure that your CPU/NB voltage is at stock as well.

As far as the safe operating temps, I'm unsure, but I once again sent an email into Gigabyte support asking for the answer to that very question, as well as what the temps in HW info represent... we'll see if I ever get an answer, let alone a straight answer, to a simple question that doesn't even involve a complaint about my product.


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> If you have everything set at stock, then that's way too hot for you're CPU to be getting, even at full load. First, try scaling down your CPU VCore in BIOS to the minimum it needs to boot and run. Also make sure you have Turbo disabled. You shouldn't be seeing a VCore of 1.428V and temps that high. Make sure that your CPU/NB voltage is at stock as well.
> 
> As far as the safe operating temps, I'm unsure, but I once again sent an email into Gigabyte support asking for the answer to that very question, as well as what the temps in HW info represent... we'll see if I ever get an answer, let alone a straight answer, to a simple question that doesn't even involve a complaint about my product.


thanks i will try


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well I'd say get to emailing them about it but I think you will find their "support" lacking. As Hellsrage said, It must not have passed validation. Its over 2 months overdue.


I emailed them back in January. It's been 6 months since I opened that support ticket. All hope has been lost. I lost my job and now I can't afford to get a new mobo =(.

Sigh.


----------



## miklkit

Ouch!







Hopefully you can get back to work soon.

I sent Gigabyte a dozen pics of my UD3. Methinks this one sums them up best. Check out that back panel.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Damn son! Mine wasn't warped quite as bad as that! However you might want to spell it out for Gigabyte support they aren't exactly the brightest stars out there


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ouch!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully you can get back to work soon.
> 
> I sent Gigabyte a dozen pics of my UD3. Methinks this one sums them up best. Check out that back panel.


the vrm are low type mosfet ics. Maybe you can put a thin 0.3 mm cooper plate between the mosfet and the cooler? Such a cooper plate you can buy off miniaturist creator? Perhaps it improves the warping?


----------



## miklkit

That pic was taken when I was putting it back together. It no longer fit well and I had to push it this way and that to get the screws in. I started at the front and took the pic when there were no screws in the back row. After that I put the last screws in and tightened them all down, but the board still did not line up with the back panel. Then I took a screwdriver handle and pushed down on the board in that corner and it snapped into place. The back panel is now holding the board in alignment and those ports are being used. There is also a hard rubber pad behind the board under the VRMs holding them up.

You can see the Thermalright cooler behind the panel. It comes with a 2mm thick thermal pad which looks to be barely thick enough to touch the middle VRMs.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> the vrm are low type mosfet ics. Maybe you can put a thin 0.3 mm cooper plate between the mosfet and the cooler? Such a cooper plate you can buy off miniaturist creator? Perhaps it improves the warping?


A copper plate that thin is only going to bend. Its an extremely soft metal. Once it bends its still not going to contact the center of the heatsink rendering it ineffective. The only remedy that seems to work is "shimming" the board from underneath the bow pushing it back up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That pic was taken when I was putting it back together. It no longer fit well and I had to push it this way and that to get the screws in. I started at the front and took the pic when there were no screws in the back row. After that I put the last screws in and tightened them all down, but the board still did not line up with the back panel. Then I took a screwdriver handle and pushed down on the board in that corner and it snapped into place. The back panel is now holding the board in alignment and those ports are being used. There is also a hard rubber pad behind the board under the VRMs holding them up.
> 
> You can see the Thermalright cooler behind the panel. It comes with a 2mm thick thermal pad which looks to be barely thick enough to touch the middle VRMs.


Yes sir, I had that same issue right down to the letter. The whole reason I thought to check for warping was because I tried using thermal paste and there was exactly none of it on the heatsink from the center VRM's. Then when I looked at the tape that was on the stock cooler I could see it wasn't touching it either. This is getting out of hand. I wonder if its the new "glass" PCB that is the problem or if they sourced VRM's from a different company and they run way hotter than what was originally spec'd.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> the vrm are low type mosfet ics. Maybe you can put a thin 0.3 mm cooper plate between the mosfet and the cooler? Such a cooper plate you can buy off miniaturist creator? Perhaps it improves the warping?
> 
> 
> 
> A copper plate that thin is only going to bend. Its an extremely soft metal. Once it bends its still not going to contact the center of the heatsink rendering it ineffective. The only remedy that seems to work is "shimming" the board from underneath the bow pushing it back up.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That pic was taken when I was putting it back together. It no longer fit well and I had to push it this way and that to get the screws in. I started at the front and took the pic when there were no screws in the back row. After that I put the last screws in and tightened them all down, but the board still did not line up with the back panel. Then I took a screwdriver handle and pushed down on the board in that corner and it snapped into place. The back panel is now holding the board in alignment and those ports are being used. There is also a hard rubber pad behind the board under the VRMs holding them up.
> 
> You can see the Thermalright cooler behind the panel. It comes with a 2mm thick thermal pad which looks to be barely thick enough to touch the middle VRMs.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes sir, I had that same issue right down to the letter. The whole reason I thought to check for warping was because I tried using thermal paste and there was exactly none of it on the heatsink from the center VRM's. Then when I looked at the tape that was on the stock cooler I could see it wasn't touching it either. This is getting out of hand. I wonder if its the new "glass" PCB that is the problem or if they sourced VRM's from a different company and they run way hotter than what was originally spec'd.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem with a board about two years ago and used aluminum bar stock a bit thinner than this stuff


It was rigid enough and not malleable like copper so it stayed rigid and maintained contact.
just a thought.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

I got a answer from gigabytes technical support of the lack of "CPU-NB" option in there latest bios for the ud5 rev 3. Tech supoort said its the Nb core option but what ive read around forums it says its not? What to belöieve?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> I got a answer from gigabytes technical support of the lack of "CPU-NB" option in there latest bios for the ud5 rev 3. Tech supoort said its the Nb core option but what ive read around forums it says its not? What to belöieve?


I personally find it hard to trust anything their support says, you're probably better off trusting people who own the board and have had to figure it out themselves.

Well I have once again decided to post on their Facebook page, I will bother them until they address these issues and find a solution.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I personally find it hard to trust anything their support says, you're probably better off trusting people who own the board and have had to figure it out themselves.
> 
> Well I have once again decided to post on their Facebook page, I will bother them until they address these issues and find a solution.


I see it this time so I'm responding so I'm "part of" whatever answer they decide to give you.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I see it this time so I'm responding so I'm "part of" whatever answer they decide to give you.


Nice! I saw the reply, so far it hasn't been hidden. Someone actually just posted about the bad times he has had with them.


----------



## riemann42

Just wanted to add that I have placed a fan from the heatsink that came with the GPU on the mosfet cooler per the advice of Ozzie, et. al. I just used self tapping screws to screw it on there. It looks sort-of neat with the frameless fan floating next to the CPU waterblock. Throttling solved. I was able to turn the PWM down to about 15% and still keep it from throttling. I am running my 8320 at 4.6 MHz, with only +0.025 set on the voltage.

Next I would like to decouple the fan from the mosfet cooler somehow to reduce noise, as it is still (at 15%) the loudest fan in my system.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> Just wanted to add that I have placed a fan from the heatsink that came with the GPU on the mosfet cooler per the advice of Ozzie, et. al. I just used self tapping screws to screw it on there. It looks sort-of neat with the frameless fan floating next to the CPU waterblock. Throttling solved. I was able to turn the PWM down to about 15% and still keep it from throttling. I am running my 8320 at 4.6 MHz, with only +0.025 set on the voltage.
> 
> Next I would like to decouple the fan from the mosfet cooler somehow to reduce noise, as it is still (at 15%) the loudest fan in my system.


mines not frameless, but the NB/VRM heatsink gets tepid at best now


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> mines not frameless, but the NB/VRM heatsink gets tepid at best now


I know that to do it now would involve several hours spent taking out most of your guts and loop off of the board, putting everything back in and then having to leak test... so it probably is far more of a pain in the butt then it's worth, lol, but I was wondering if you had ever considered using a water block for the board itself? I know EK makes one specifically designed for the UD7, although it's just the NB and Mosfets, with a replacement SB heatsink. I was just curious as to whether you had considered that and if you felt it was unnecessary, etc.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> mines not frameless, but the NB/VRM heatsink gets tepid at best now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know that to do it now would involve several hours spent taking out most of your guts and loop off of the board, putting everything back in and then having to leak test... so it probably is far more of a pain in the butt then it's worth, lol, but I was wondering if you had ever considered using a water block for the board itself? I know EK makes one specifically designed for the UD7, although it's just the NB and Mosfets, with a replacement SB heatsink. I was just curious as to whether you had considered that and if you felt it was unnecessary, etc.
Click to expand...

I actually can remove /clean, and put that fan back without removing any plumbing. I thought about it once the chipset block came out but the spot fan keeps the nb/vrm so cool it's a non-issue.


----------



## hurricane28

I have one 120mm CM sickle flow blowing on my VRM/NB but i did not see any temps drops.

I played some high demanding games for over 1 hour with and without the fan but i did not see any difference in temps to be honest, but it keeps within 27/43C so that should be ok









I heard they are rated for 80c but what i notice it to keep them under 70c gives most stability because when mine hit 73 i get all blue screens and was not stable at all.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Also, I just saw this picture in the thread discussing the possible FX-9000 CPU, which is basically a PD tweaked and ramped up to 5GHz stock clock... Anyways.. an article linked with this picture is what caught my attention and kind of makes me want to call BS...



Anyone with a UD7... did you ever see this anywhere on the packaging or on Gigabyte's own website? Cause I've never heard of any board talking about support of next gen AM3+ 5GHz CPUs... Rumor is that this is supposed to be the next UD7 revision for the updated power thirsty FX CPUs, but as the picture shows, they're advertising using Ultra Durable 4 hardware, not the Ultra Durable 5 that all UD5s and UD7s came with... Why be cheap and put lesser NB/SB/VRM hardware on these boards when the reported TDP of the processors they're designing this board for is rated at 220W... almost 100W TDP more than the current top end FX81-xx/83xxs?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I have one 120mm CM sickle flow blowing on my VRM/NB but i did not see any temps drops.
> 
> I played some high demanding games for over 1 hour with and without the fan but i did not see any difference in temps to be honest, but it keeps within 27/43C so that should be ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I heard they are rated for 80c but what i notice it to keep them under 70c gives most stability because when mine hit 73 i get all blue screens and was not stable at all.


If you place the fan on top off and pulling air away from the VRMs instead of pushing it onto them, you'll probably notice an actually temp change, maybe not more than a few degrees, but it's still a difference, lol.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> If you place the fan on top off and pulling air away from the VRMs instead of pushing it onto them, you'll probably notice an actually temp change, maybe not more than a few degrees, but it's still a difference, lol.


using my IR gun i actually notice better temps on the VRM with my 80mm fan blowing down than pulling air away.

Here is my setup

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ebduncan/media/003_zps1d7cf268.jpg.html


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Also, I just saw this picture in the thread discussing the possible FX-9000 CPU, which is basically a PD tweaked and ramped up to 5GHz stock clock... Anyways.. an article linked with this picture is what caught my attention and kind of makes me want to call BS...
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone with a UD7... did you ever see this anywhere on the packaging or on Gigabyte's own website? Cause I've never heard of any board talking about support of next gen AM3+ 5GHz CPUs... Rumor is that this is supposed to be the next UD7 revision for the updated power thirsty FX CPUs, but as the picture shows, they're advertising using Ultra Durable 4 hardware, not the Ultra Durable 5 that all UD5s and UD7s came with... Why be cheap and put lesser NB/SB/VRM hardware on these boards when the reported TDP of the processors they're designing this board for is rated at 220W... almost 100W TDP more than the current top end FX81-xx/83xxs?


Space,
My current machine is using the same UD7 (I own a rev 1.0 and Rev 1.1) the 1.1 is in my machine now and the current 8+2 VRM is capable of handling 220 TDP with no problem. I have a 8350 running 5.2GHz 24/7 and at load has pulled on excess of 400w , so it's more than capable. I can also run 5.3GHz stable and bench some at 5.4GHz+ so the VRM is good on these and can handle it . I am more curious of the Rev 3.0 in the corner and what that entails.

I am with Ebduncan about the VRM spot fan blowing downward. It blows downward and spreads circulation to surrounding VRM components and get a better result than lifting the air off the VRM/NB heatsink. Mine never sees 40c @ 23 anbient.

Hurricane said that they are rated for 80C+ and I have been told the same from ASUS/Gigabyte, but It has been my observation like Hurricane that nothing good ever comes from running them that warm.


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I have one 120mm CM sickle flow blowing on my VRM/NB but i did not see any temps drops.
> 
> I played some high demanding games for over 1 hour with and without the fan but i did not see any difference in temps to be honest, but it keeps within 27/43C so that should be ok
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I heard they are rated for 80c but what i notice it to keep them under 70c gives most stability because when mine hit 73 i get all blue screens and was not stable at all.


I stuck a Noctua pointing at the NB/VRM and noticed no difference in performance (on my UD3 there are no sensors for NB or VRM, but I can tell when it throttles and touch it and either burn myself or not). Only when I put a smaller fan blowing air on the VRM did I notice a difference. The fan I used, as stated above, is one of the frameless fans that came with my 7970. I just used self tapping screws to bolt it directly to the VRM cooler. I can now touch it without burning myself, if I can manage to get my finger around the fan without losing it.

The only WB I can find that will fit this board is this at ppc. The UD7 has a different layout.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Space,
> My current machine is using the same UD7 (I own a rev 1.0 and Rev 1.1) the 1.1 is in my machine now and the current 8+2 VRM is capable of handling 220 TDP with no problem. I have a 8350 running 5.2GHz 24/7 and at load has pulled on excess of 400w , so it's more than capable. I can also run 5.3GHz stable and bench some at 5.4GHz+ so the VRM is good on these and can handle it . I am more curious of the Rev 3.0 in the corner and what that entails.
> 
> I am with Ebduncan about the VRM spot fan blowing downward. It blows downward and spreads circulation to surrounding VRM components and get a better result than lifting the air off the VRM/NB heatsink. Mine never sees 40c @ 23 anbient.
> 
> Hurricane said that they are rated for 80C+ and I have been told the same from ASUS/Gigabyte, but It has been my observation like Hurricane that nothing good ever comes from running them that warm.


Well what raised an eyebrow what that picture is they're pitching this apparently as a revision & re-launching of the currently discontinued UD7... and with the cutback to UD4 grade hardware as opposed to the UD5 grade hardware that the original UD7 board had on it. While no one knows exactly what the rumored FX-9000 is, some have speculated that it might be a 10-core Vishera revised and boosted up to 5GHz, some have said it might merely be highly binned 8350s that come factory locked to 5GHz, some are speculating that it's an in-between tweak/revision from Vishera to Steamroller with it's own unique, though very Piledriver similar die and could be kind of a precursor to the architecture we'll see when the Steamrollers launch, etc. All that's concretely known from the current info is a 5GHz FX CPU with a scorching TDP of 220W... which leads me to think it's AMD sort of testing the waters about launching a high performance enthusiast line. Which would be great to see if they do it right. I'd not have a problem paying an extra $100-200 for a FX that gives the buyer an extra 15-25% performance over the mainstream line of CPUs, even if it means I'd have to spend another $500 or so putting it and a GPU under a full custom water loop to keep it from cooking.

I know we're most specifically talking about VRM, capacitors, and the like here along with probably a voltage boost to the HTT, so why down grade the components that specifically handle power consumption and regulation? The idea that they're taking lower quality hardware to put on a board that is being re-engineered and tweaked "specifically" for the most power hungry FX series CPU we've seen yet seems kind of foolish to me... like Gigabyte is just setting up anyone who wants that board and chip to fail. If the original UD7 boards could easily handle that kind of power load, why not leave them be or even beef them up a little more?

After all, Gigabyte already has a lot of issues they're ignoring with the 990FXA-UD3s, and this makes me question just how good the new rev of the UD5 and UD7 for these beefier FX-series CPUs will end up being.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> I stuck a Noctua pointing at the NB/VRM and noticed no difference in performance (on my UD3 there are no sensors for NB or VRM, but I can tell when it throttles and touch it and either burn myself or not). Only when I put a smaller fan blowing air on the VRM did I notice a difference. The fan I used, as stated above, is one of the frameless fans that came with my 7970. I just used self tapping screws to bolt it directly to the VRM cooler. I can now touch it without burning myself, if I can manage to get my finger around the fan without losing it.
> 
> The only WB I can find that will fit this board is this at ppc. The UD7 has a different layout.


I had read on here that some one has tried the same water blocks but it would not fit, but if it does i would be happy because i have some custom water loop in my mind any time soon









Also i noticed that the CPU voltage and CPU cooler has a great deal with vrm temps because i had mine to 5ghz stable at 1.6 volts and my CPUNB to 2570 and set the NB voltage to 1.200 and the offset to +225 so the voltage was 1.4125 and it was getting very very hot exceeds 70c and becomes very unstable.

So i lowered my OC from 5ghz to 4.6 with 1.48 volt and the HT link at 2826 and CPUNB 2570 with the same amount of volts it is significantly cooler, like 51c was the max i ever saw on it.

So my conclusion is that IF you want high OC with high CPUNB and HT link you need an very very good cooler to keep it cool because anything above 4.6/4.8 needs so much voltage and dissipates so much heat that the only thing to achieve that with low temps is an way overkill custom loop cooler and if you want it to last any long than would an motherboard water block kit be advised


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I had read on here that some one has tried the same water blocks but it would not fit, but if it does i would be happy because i have some custom water loop in my mind any time soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also i noticed that the CPU voltage and CPU cooler has a great deal with vrm temps because i had mine to 5ghz stable at 1.6 volts and my CPUNB to 2570 and set the NB voltage to 1.200 and the offset to +225 so the voltage was 1.4125 and it was getting very very hot exceeds 70c and becomes very unstable.
> 
> So i lowered my OC from 5ghz to 4.6 with 1.48 volt and the HT link at 2826 and CPUNB 2570 with the same amount of volts it is significantly cooler, like 51c was the max i ever saw on it.
> 
> So my conclusion is that IF you want high OC with high CPUNB and HT link you need an very very good cooler to keep it cool because anything above 4.6/4.8 needs so much voltage and dissipates so much heat that the only thing to achieve that with low temps is an way overkill custom loop cooler and if you want it to last any long than would an motherboard water block kit be advised


That seems to be par for the course with Gigabyte's 990FXA boards... I have a friend who uses an ASUS Crosshair for his 8350 @ 4.9 GHz and similar NB/HTT to yours on air/water cooling (H110 for the CPU, air for everything else) he never sees boards temps above 60c... I think in part it has something to do partially with the airflow inside you tower and also with the engineering and design of the board... ASUS ROG boards seem to be extremely well designed for OCs and high performance use, and Gigabyte just seems to not be at all focused on making a strictly gaming/enthusiast line of boards, at least not for AMD CPUs.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Space,
> My current machine is using the same UD7 (I own a rev 1.0 and Rev 1.1) the 1.1 is in my machine now and the current 8+2 VRM is capable of handling 220 TDP with no problem. I have a 8350 running 5.2GHz 24/7 and at load has pulled on excess of 400w , so it's more than capable. I can also run 5.3GHz stable and bench some at 5.4GHz+ so the VRM is good on these and can handle it . I am more curious of the Rev 3.0 in the corner and what that entails.
> 
> I am with Ebduncan about the VRM spot fan blowing downward. It blows downward and spreads circulation to surrounding VRM components and get a better result than lifting the air off the VRM/NB heatsink. Mine never sees 40c @ 23 anbient.
> 
> Hurricane said that they are rated for 80C+ and I have been told the same from ASUS/Gigabyte, but It has been my observation like Hurricane that nothing good ever comes from running them that warm.
> 
> 
> 
> Well what raised an eyebrow what that picture is they're pitching this apparently as a revision & re-launching of the currently discontinued UD7... and with the cutback to UD4 grade hardware as opposed to the UD5 grade hardware that the original UD7 board had on it. While no one knows exactly what the rumored FX-9000 is, some have speculated that it might be a 10-core Vishera revised and boosted up to 5GHz, some have said it might merely be highly binned 8350s that come factory locked to 5GHz, some are speculating that it's an in-between tweak/revision from Vishera to Steamroller with it's own unique, though very Piledriver similar die and could be kind of a precursor to the architecture we'll see when the Steamrollers launch, etc. All that's concretely known from the current info is a 5GHz FX CPU with a scorching TDP of 220W... which leads me to think it's AMD sort of testing the waters about launching a high performance enthusiast line. Which would be great to see if they do it right. I'd not have a problem paying an extra $100-200 for a FX that gives the buyer an extra 15-25% performance over the mainstream line of CPUs, even if it means I'd have to spend another $500 or so putting it and a GPU under a full custom water loop to keep it from cooking.
> 
> I know we're most specifically talking about VRM, capacitors, and the like here along with probably a voltage boost to the HTT, so why down grade the components that specifically handle power consumption and regulation? The idea that they're taking lower quality hardware to put on a board that is being re-engineered and tweaked "specifically" for the most power hungry FX series CPU we've seen yet seems kind of foolish to me... like Gigabyte is just setting up anyone who wants that board and chip to fail. If the original UD7 boards could easily handle that kind of power load, why not leave them be or even beef them up a little more?
> 
> After all, Gigabyte already has a lot of issues they're ignoring with the 990FXA-UD3s, and this makes me question just how good the new rev of the UD5 and UD7 for these beefier FX-series CPUs will end up being.
Click to expand...

It could also just simply be that the UD7 on the display there is just a prop or placeholder for a board/revision that has not even been manufactured as of yet. To many unknowns and scenarios to say at this point.
BTW, the original UD7 and the subsequent rev 1.1 was actually UD3, not UD5. If you expand the image you can see the' Ultra Durable 3" Low RDS Driver MOSFET package. trust me on this, i own one of each











My Review of both rev 1.0 and rev 1.1
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/gigabyte_990fxaud7/


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> I stuck a Noctua pointing at the NB/VRM and noticed no difference in performance (on my UD3 there are no sensors for NB or VRM, but I can tell when it throttles and touch it and either burn myself or not). Only when I put a smaller fan blowing air on the VRM did I notice a difference. The fan I used, as stated above, is one of the frameless fans that came with my 7970. I just used self tapping screws to bolt it directly to the VRM cooler. I can now touch it without burning myself, if I can manage to get my finger around the fan without losing it.
> 
> The only WB I can find that will fit this board is this at ppc. The UD7 has a different layout.


There currently are no NB/SB/Mosfet blocks from EK that are officially compatible with the 990FXA-UD3s/UD5s... just the one for the UD7 and it only covers the VRMs (mosfet) and the NB with a replacement heatsink for the SB... There are some solutions out there though... Koolance has a couple blocks that are compatible with the UD3 and UD5s NB/SB... I believe it's the CHC-122 and CHC-125, and they also have a setup you can do for the VRMs... the MVR40 with the 107.5mm heat transfer plate. All together it's about $115 for the three blocks + the extra for whatever rad(s), pump, res, fittings and tubing you want.

I have been thinking about upgrading my tower at the end of the year versus a completely new tower... I figure if I wait until Steamroller comes out, the top notch SR will probably be no more than $250, probably about $225, the ASUS Crosshair runs about $215, and 7970s will probably be in the neighborhood of $300-325 by year's end with the 8000 series launching... and the water loop I would put it all under will run me about $700. SO I can put about $1200-1300 in upgrades into my current tower (trust me the GPU would be worth it to go from a 5870 to a 7970, and if SR proves to be what we all hope it is, it'd be a worthy upgrade from an 8120) versus dropping around $2,500-3,000) for the build I'd really love and go with a SB-E rig until AMD gets on an even par with Intel and Intel is forced to stop making CPUs using shoddy, cheap TIM.

Decisions, Decisions...


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> It could also just simply be that the UD7 on the display there is just a prop or placeholder for a board/revision that has not even been manufactured as of yet. To many unknowns and scenarios to say at this point.
> BTW, the original UD7 and the subsequent rev 1.1 was actually UD3, not UD5. If you expand the image you can see the' Ultra Durable 3" Low RDS Driver MOSFET package. trust me on this, i own one of each


Open mouth... insert foot... check.

I stand corrected, man, lol.


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> There currently are no NB/SB/Mosfet blocks from EK that are officially compatible with the 990FXA-UD3s/UD5s... just the one for the UD7 and it only covers the VRMs (mosfet) and the NB with a replacement heatsink for the SB... There are some solutions out there though... Koolance has a couple blocks that are compatible with the UD3 and UD5s NB/SB... I believe it's the CHC-122 and CHC-125, and they also have a setup you can do for the VRMs... the MVR40 with the 107.5mm heat transfer plate. All together it's about $115 for the three blocks + the extra for whatever rad(s), pump, res, fittings and tubing you want.
> 
> I have been thinking about upgrading my tower at the end of the year versus a completely new tower... I figure if I wait until Steamroller comes out, the top notch SR will probably be no more than $250, probably about $225, the ASUS Crosshair runs about $215, and 7970s will probably be in the neighborhood of $300-325 by year's end with the 8000 series launching... and the water loop I would put it all under will run me about $700. SO I can put about $1200-1300 in upgrades into my current tower (trust me the GPU would be worth it to go from a 5870 to a 7970, and if SR proves to be what we all hope it is, it'd be a worthy upgrade from an 8120) versus dropping around $2,500-3,000) for the build I'd really love and go with a SB-E rig until AMD gets on an even par with Intel and Intel is forced to stop making CPUs using shoddy, cheap TIM.
> .


According to the "cooling configurator" on EKWB the GA AMD Kits fit the UD3 but not UD5 (SB block does not fit). As this makes no sense, I would be reluctant to buy it without talking to EK first.

With the little fan doing the trick for now, I think I am with you on waiting to do anything until Steamroller comes out. I will got another 7970 if they drop in price enough to make it cost <$300, as then for about $400 I can get it with an EK WB to match my current one.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> It could also just simply be that the UD7 on the display there is just a prop or placeholder for a board/revision that has not even been manufactured as of yet. To many unknowns and scenarios to say at this point.
> BTW, the original UD7 and the subsequent rev 1.1 was actually UD3, not UD5. If you expand the image you can see the' Ultra Durable 3" Low RDS Driver MOSFET package. trust me on this, i own one of each
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Open mouth... insert foot... check.
> 
> I stand corrected, man, lol.
Click to expand...

Well I'm glad that has never happened to me!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> That seems to be par for the course with Gigabyte's 990FXA boards... I have a friend who uses an ASUS Crosshair for his 8350 @ 4.9 GHz and similar NB/HTT to yours on air/water cooling (H110 for the CPU, air for everything else) he never sees boards temps above 60c... I think in part it has something to do partially with the airflow inside you tower and also with the engineering and design of the board... ASUS ROG boards seem to be extremely well designed for OCs and high performance use, and Gigabyte just seems to not be at all focused on making a strictly gaming/enthusiast line of boards, at least not for AMD CPUs.


Yes maybe because my tower has not the best airflow i think but i do have 200mm bitfenix specter pro sucking air inside the case so it should be pretty good.

Its one of the strongest 200mm fans i could find so i bought it.

I did noticed some temp difference when i opened the case tho so it could be part of my case airflow that give me such a high VRM temps because when i opened it it was a few degrees cooler than with closed case so i do need to take a look at that but if it runs under 70c its fine and no issues with stability or overheating.


----------



## riemann42

A picture of my VRM now:


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes maybe because my tower has not the best airflow i think but i do have 200mm bitfenix specter pro sucking air inside the case so it should be pretty good.
> 
> Its one of the strongest 200mm fans i could find so i bought it.
> 
> I did noticed some temp difference when i opened the case tho so it could be part of my case airflow that give me such a high VRM temps because when i opened it it was a few degrees cooler than with closed case so i do need to take a look at that but if it runs under 70c its fine and no issues with stability or overheating.


I looked at those, but got a cooler master. Doesn't move as much air as i'd like (110 CFM it says. Maybe if you put a bitfenix right behind it...). I need to put a hole in the side and mount a 120 on it, in addition to the fan I got screwed onto the VRM heatsink. Time to break out the hole saw.

-Edward


----------



## miklkit

I have a Silverstone FM121 120mm fan that is being used as the rear case exhaust fan. It is rated at 110cfm and I believe it because there is a strong wind coming out of the back of the case. There are 4 120mm fans rated at 56cfm pushing air into the case and they can't keep up with it. But, it is a bit noisy.

I got brave and did an OCCT large data set stress test today and temps stabilized at 42C. That made me try the small data set. It looked like it was stabilizing at 60C when it started throttling.







I know the Arctic A30 CPU HSF isn't quite good enough and will be upgrading that, but was hopeful that the VRMs would stay cool after putting the brace behind the board and upgrading the cooler. But no, the board still appears to be warped.


----------



## rakesh27

Guys,

Sorry to change the subject, ive got a small problem, can you all help me to resolve...

At present own a UD7+8350+7990, anyways i brought a sata6 raid card from startech PEXSAT34 PCI-Ex4, well anyways when i add the raid card i cannot boot to windows if i add another sata card, or even a dual nic card...

Once i remove the extra sata card and nic card then i can boot to windows 8, the startech card has 4 internal sata6 ports for my internal hdd, my boot order is my c:, then cd/dvd rom and lastly usb hdd/flash drive.

Is there something i need to do in bios stop this happening.....

Ive looked everywhere on the web as others had similiar problems, when i have 2 PEXsat34 cards then it def wont boot to windows, seems like something is overriding the boot order... or maybe im wrong....


----------



## mckellyb

Hi, all!

Great info here, and I can't wait to start tweaking my UD3, _however_, right now...well, for the past 10 days, I've been getting dangerously close to clinically insane.

Specs:

I have a home-built system, which had a couple year old Asus board it in, 8 gigs of Kingston 1066 (I think it was that slow), Win 7 64-bit on a new 1 tb WD Black Caviar. The incidentals are two DVD drives, one Asus, the other, um...let's go with Whamco...a few external drives, and that about covers it.

A couple of Saturdays back, I heard this computer reboot itself...and I wasn't within five feet of it. It'd been running pretty much trouble-free for a couple of years.

Strange. Hmph, well, I'm likely not around when it happens other times.

Then it did it again about 5 minutes later.

I was working from home, 'bout 04:30, so it was MUCH to early to consider anything remotely resembling troubleshooting.

By the fourth or fifth reboot, it was constant. It wasn't even letting me get into the BIOS for more than about 5 seconds before rebooting.

I turned it off and looked at it later that day.

It looked like mobo failure, but to be certain, I took the whole system out of that case, and put it in another, which it'd been in previously for about 18 months. Different 500W PSU and everything. Same behaviour. Okay, time to play with RAM. No difference. I don't have other vid cards, so I'm a bit stuck there, but I've been an IT-guy for 15+ years, how hard can this be to figure out?! It's not PSU, it's not case wiring, it's not even getting to the HDD...

Eventually, I broke down and started mobo shopping. Found this Gigabyte on Amazon for a good price, and it had better-than-average reviews. Easy purchase.

I have it a couple of days later, _thanks Amazon Prime_, and I start over. Get it all built, old RAM, Coolermaster case, old peripherals, should be 100%. FWIW, the PSU in the Coolermaster is a 1KW Coolermaster PSU. Overkill, I know, but that case/PSU was for a sub-$1K 16 core server build I was working on, but never finished.

The BIOS comes up, I check a few things out, change nothing, and restart. Okay! Starting Windoze! YAY!!!!!!!!!

Hold on. What is this freezing BS at the boot screen. Meh, reboot.

Reboot now has it going to a repair screen. I try to load from DVD, nothing. I go into the BIOS, make certain the DVD player is the first boot device, _still_ can't see it at boot, but it's there in the BIOS.

Change some USB cables...maybe that's it. Nope.

So, it refuses to boot from DVD, regardless of player its pointed at, and it won't boot from HDD.

Also, the Asus DVD drive now goes into a near-constant seek mode. I unplug it, 'cause it's invisible, anyway. Hold on...now the Whamco drive goes into a hyper-seek mode, where the active light increases in flash rate until eventually, it stops, and the drive goes dead.

????????????

Restart, the whole psychotic dance starts anew.

I've tried each PSU in each case, put in four new sticks (32GB), today, of Corsair 1600, thinking even though the BIOS can see my old RAM, maybe it's not truly compatible, and it's not on Gigabyte's list of compatibles (though I think it should be fine...y'never know).

The only thing I haven't done is start with a bare HDD, because even if it were, I can't boot from DVD...or USB for that matter, though the BIOS _can see it_ and will let me put it as the first boot device...so it's pointless to wipe data.

For grins, I cleared the CMOS, i.e. no power and pulled the battery, then, for good measure, I went into the BIOS and reset everything to default. Looked over the readings in there, too. All six cores look happy, temps are fine, all 32 gig of RAM are accounted for...

Though, now when trying to boot, I get a steady, not blinking, cursor in the upper-left side, not in the corner, though, of a black screen and that's it. If I could get it to boot from CD/DVD, at least I could restore from a backup...I take two per week, so no big loss, there.

I've tried what I think is everything. No sound card, only the single HDD, only a DVD, both separately, different RAM slots, and a bunch of other stuff which was so silly, I can't remember...no dice.

Can y'all help an old IT-guy out with his discombobulation?

edit: This is a 3.0 board, and I updated the BIOS to FC (the latest) thinking it might be something there.


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mckellyb*
> 
> Hi, all!
> 
> Though, now when trying to boot, I get a steady, not blinking, cursor in the upper-left side, not in the corner, though, of a black screen and that's it. If I could get it to boot from CD/DVD, at least I could restore from a backup...I take two per week, so no big loss, there.
> 
> I've tried what I think is everything. No sound card, only the single HDD, only a DVD, both separately, different RAM slots, and a bunch of other stuff which was so silly, I can't remember...no dice.
> 
> Can y'all help an old IT-guy out with his discombobulation?


My gut tells me it's AHCI vs. IDE on the SATA interface. Could be wrong. This board defaults to AHCI, but older boards defaulted to IDE.


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I have a Silverstone FM121 120mm fan that is being used as the rear case exhaust fan. It is rated at 110cfm and I believe it because there is a strong wind coming out of the back of the case. There are 4 120mm fans rated at 56cfm pushing air into the case and they can't keep up with it. But, it is a bit noisy.
> 
> I got brave and did an OCCT large data set stress test today and temps stabilized at 42C. That made me try the small data set. It looked like it was stabilizing at 60C when it started throttling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know the Arctic A30 CPU HSF isn't quite good enough and will be upgrading that, but was hopeful that the VRMs would stay cool after putting the brace behind the board and upgrading the cooler. But no, the board still appears to be warped.


ARRG! Ozzy flattened his board (see above). If you have space behind the VRM (my case has a cutout for the CPU backplane there), then you can use something to support it.

The problem is the location. Most of your air flows right over the VRM. So it gets very little air over the fins of the VRM heatsink. I would do what I did (that sentence was less awkward in my head). In addition to all the other air in your case, blow some RIGHT ON the VRM. After you flatten it, of course.

Edited after reading your post again. Don't want to tell you stuff you already know.


----------



## mckellyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> My gut tells me it's AHCI vs. IDE on the SATA interface. Could be wrong. This board defaults to AHCI, but older boards defaulted to IDE.


Yeah, tried that...it was in the "silly ideas" area. No change.

Even moved around to different SATA ports....

Thanks, though! I'm up for pretty much anything at this point. It's FAR from my first build, but it's the first one to be so testing of my patience.

edit: Actually, I'll try this again, just for grins...y'never know...

edit 2: Yeah, no change.


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mckellyb*
> 
> Yeah, tried that...it was in the "silly ideas" area. No change.
> 
> Even moved around to different SATA ports....
> 
> Thanks, though! I'm up for pretty much anything at this point. It's FAR from my first build, but it's the first one to be so testing of my patience.
> 
> edit: Actually, I'll try this again, just for grins...y'never know...
> 
> edit 2: Yeah, no change.


I got nothing. The cursor thing is what you get when it finds no boot device. I had it when I failed to include the old 500 GB hard drive. Turns out my boot partition was on it. So, running through options:

1) UEFI is set to Windows 8, but system was built on legacy and legacy boot not enabled.

2) Boot order is set wrong, so hit, F10? and try choosing by hand.

3) Try loading a linux repair CD, see if it will boot to that by some magic.

4) You need a goat and two chickens. Call me after you get them.


----------



## mckellyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> 1) UEFI is set to Windows 8, but system was built on legacy and legacy boot not enabled.
> 
> 2) Boot order is set wrong, so hit, F10? and try choosing by hand.
> 
> 3) Try loading a linux repair CD, see if it will boot to that by some magic.
> 
> 4) You need a goat and two chickens. Call me after you get them.


Well, good to know it's not finding anything...at least I know what it 'thinks'.

Set to other OS, by default, so that's cool. Boot on this is F12...I've worn the key in the past 10 days.

I can't get it to boot from the Windoze CD or the Macrium disc used for restores. It just refuses to see anything, though it used to kinda see the HDD, 'cause I'd get the Win 7 splash screen for about 5-7 seconds, then it'd...I don't remember, now. I think it'd reboot. Yeah, that's what it'd do.

Any chance this board is defective?

Goat and two chickens, eh? brb... I'm in Texas, shouldn't be a problem.

edit: I looked at and changed the SATA/IDE settings, the UEFI to legacy, if possible, and tried another half-dozen times. The BIOS sees the internal drive and one external, but that's it. Can't even see the DVD drive, anymore. It decided to stop working completely, too. As if it has no power, but it does. If I leave the system off for a while, it'll come back to life, though it still will not boot from it.


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mckellyb*
> 
> Well, good to know it's not finding anything...at least I know what it 'thinks'.
> 
> Set to other OS, by default, so that's cool. Boot on this is F12...I've worn the key in the past 10 days.
> 
> I can't get it to boot from the Windoze CD or the Macrium disc used for restores. It just refuses to see anything, though it used to kinda see the HDD, 'cause I'd get the Win 7 splash screen for about 5-7 seconds, then it'd...I don't remember, now. I think it'd reboot. Yeah, that's what it'd do.
> 
> Any chance this board is defective?
> 
> Goat and two chickens, eh? brb... I'm in Texas, shouldn't be a problem.


Can you boot to a CD when only a single DVD drive is plugged into port 5 or 6 on the board?

Edit: And all other ports disconnected.

Edit 2: Sorry, can't help myself: I meant a REAL goat and two chickens, not Perry, Cruz, and Cornyn.


----------



## mckellyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> Can you boot to a CD when only a single DVD drive is plugged into port 5 or 6 on the board?
> 
> Edit: And all other ports disconnected.
> 
> Edit 2: Sorry, can't help myself: I meant a REAL goat and two chickens, not Perry, Cruz, and Cornyn.


Hmmm...just a DVD drive on 5 or 6...don't know if I've tried that, yet.

BTW, the Texas politician thing is spot-freakin'-on. Those three are the embarrassment trifecta.

Welp, first time, hit F12, the CD drive is there, on SATA 5 (6), select it, nothing. Black screen.

Restart, the drive starts seeking like a madman, turning on/off faster and faster, until it stops. After this, no bootable device found...go fish.

I'm beginning to lean toward toasted board. The only thing left which could be bad is the CPU, and it looks fine in the BIOS.


----------



## riemann42

Yeah, unless your DVD drive or disc are toast (as you have two and have tried multiple discs that would be bad luck indeed), then it's likely that the CPU is failing. You could try changing the multiplier to x7 and see what that gets you, I guess. I am out of ideas.


----------



## mckellyb

Multiplier...I'll have to look through the BIOS. Sounds familiar, but I've been in there so much, it's almost overload, 'cause nothing seems to change, well, anything.

Gah! New CPU. That would really suck, though I could go 8-core...

Man, this is getting expensive. Still, less expensive and much better than a store-bought HP/Dell.


----------



## miklkit

riemann42: If you read back a hunnert or so pages you will see that I have tried many different solutions. At the moment the mobo has a Thermalright HR-90U MOSFET cooler on it that sticks up into the air stream between a 74cfm and a110cfm fan. That is what I call a wind tunnel. The UD3 is toast.

mckellyb: Your situation sounds very similar to what I ran into when I bought this UD3 last January. I tried everything anyone suggested and the only thing that worked for me was to format the hard drives.
Now I had a perfectly good running puter before the switch. It's only problem was that the Q6600 cpu could no longer keep up with modern games. Seriously, if you have a spare HD laying around, format it and give that a try. If it works, then RMA that POS of a UD3 and start over with a better board.
I wuz stupid and soldiered on with a bad bios until it smoked the VRMs. Now I'm crying in my beer.


----------



## Recursion

Here is latest 990fxa ud3 rev 3 beta bios fdc: http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/upload/files/BIOS_990FXA-UD3_3.0_FDc.zip. I got it from gigabyte forum but I didn't tried it yet. Maybe it can solve some problems with throtteling?


----------



## mckellyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> mckellyb: Your situation sounds very similar to what I ran into when I bought this UD3 last January. I tried everything anyone suggested and the only thing that worked for me was to format the hard drives.
> Now I had a perfectly good running puter before the switch. It's only problem was that the Q6600 cpu could no longer keep up with modern games. Seriously, if you have a spare HD laying around, format it and give that a try. If it works, then RMA that POS of a UD3 and start over with a better board.
> I wuz stupid and soldiered on with a bad bios until it smoked the VRMs. Now I'm crying in my beer.


Let me see what I have, but I don't think I have an extra SATA drive sitting around. The thing which kills me is, even with just a CD-ROM connected, on any SATA port, "no bootable device detected, kicking your lame self back to the BIOS", appears.

Better board, eh? Suggestions on what works well with a Phenom II x6, yet is still not three fortunes? Full size ATX is fine, the HAF 932 is huge.

Yeah, I feel an RMA coming on. Though, my old system _did_ bite the dust, and I saw it happen, which was a bit weird.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakesh27*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Sorry to change the subject, ive got a small problem, can you all help me to resolve...
> 
> At present own a UD7+8350+7990, anyways i brought a sata6 raid card from startech PEXSAT34 PCI-Ex4, well anyways when i add the raid card i cannot boot to windows if i add another sata card, or even a dual nic card...
> 
> Once i remove the extra sata card and nic card then i can boot to windows 8, the startech card has 4 internal sata6 ports for my internal hdd, my boot order is my c:, then cd/dvd rom and lastly usb hdd/flash drive.
> 
> Is there something i need to do in bios stop this happening.....
> 
> Ive looked everywhere on the web as others had similiar problems, when i have 2 PEXsat34 cards then it def wont boot to windows, seems like something is overriding the boot order... or maybe im wrong....


interesting.

Go into the bios hit Control, F1. Go to advanced chipset options, and change the PCI-E lane setup. Perhaps the board is not giving your pexsat34 cards bandwidth. Worth a shot, not sure if it will resolve your problem but something to check anyways.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

U guys with the ud5 rev 3, with latest bios the (fb) one. Can u change your ht and nb values in bios? I have the option to change them but they remain fixed at ht 2600mhz and nb 2200mhz even after i change the values and save and reboot. They wont change


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> riemann42: If you read back a hunnert or so pages you will see that I have tried many different solutions. At the moment the mobo has a Thermalright HR-90U MOSFET cooler on it that sticks up into the air stream between a 74cfm and a110cfm fan. That is what I call a wind tunnel. The UD3 is toast.
> 
> mckellyb: Your situation sounds very similar to what I ran into when I bought this UD3 last January. I tried everything anyone suggested and the only thing that worked for me was to format the hard drives.
> Now I had a perfectly good running puter before the switch. It's only problem was that the Q6600 cpu could no longer keep up with modern games. Seriously, if you have a spare HD laying around, format it and give that a try. If it works, then RMA that POS of a UD3 and start over with a better board.
> I wuz stupid and soldiered on with a bad bios until it smoked the VRMs. Now I'm crying in my beer.












That sucks. You've gone above and beyond, and it's still toast. Sounds like the UD3 has more problems than just bad heatsinks, but inadequate MOSFETs in general. Gigabyte SHOULD phase out the UD3 and note on it's specs that UD3 is not for 8 core CPUs. There is no chance they will, however. Why bother when it still has good ratings on newegg and amazon?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So AMD announced the FX 9590 today. I wonder if the UD3 is going to be certified for it lol. Then when it starts causing house fires Gigabyte can say that the Newegg reviews say it works ok.


----------



## riemann42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So AMD announced the FX 9590 today. I wonder if the UD3 is going to be certified for it lol. Then when it starts causing house fires Gigabyte can say that the Newegg reviews say it works ok.


Gigabyte should sell a new Active NB/VRM Heatsink for the UD3 and say that it is an "upgrade kit" to support the 9590. It would let them save face, and support their customers.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> Gigabyte should sell a new Active NB/VRM Heatsink for the UD3 and say that it is an "upgrade kit" to support the 9590. It would let them save face, and support their customers.


no issues here. with my 8core at 5ghz. Though i did install a fan. It would be nice if gigabyte did release a thermal upgrade solution though.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> Gigabyte should sell a new Active NB/VRM Heatsink for the UD3 and say that it is an "upgrade kit" to support the 9590. It would let them save face, and support their customers.


First they would have to sell a warping repair kit lol but yeah they definitely should offer us something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> no issues here. with my 8core at 5ghz. Though i did install a fan. It would be nice if gigabyte did release a thermal upgrade solution though.


Are you using a Rev 3 UD3 or is an earlier one? This whole throttling thing seems to effect only Rev 3 boards.


----------



## B4rr3L Rid3R

That sux! I've a rev 1.0 UD3 for almost 2 years now, running an 8350 @ 4.5Ghz 1.41V Load Prime95 Stable for 5 hrs now without any kind of throtle, vdrop or high temps... They should make better revisions and not worst.


----------



## mckellyb

riemann42, I owe you a beer! Maybe a few.

I reset everything, AGAIN, the machine was sitting idle overnight, fired it up, changed _*JUST*_ AHCI to IDE in the BIOS, save and reboot, and whadda know, it booted!!!

Even ran for about 35 minutes.

I left it to work out, or else I'd have been there for four hours, came back, changed the resolution, Windows said it needed to be restarted to save some changes, so meh, why not?

Oh...I'm back to not being able to find any bootable media.

Now I have a theory. I think it may be the CPU has an issue with being even remotely warm. I put it in the freezer, will pull it out after about 20 minutes, and see if it boots. If it does, I'll reboot, and see if it's okay. If so, I'll let it get warm, then reboot one more time. I suspect it'll do nothing and then I have my answer.

THANKS!!!

I'll be back when I determine a pattern. This AMD Phenom II x6 has never gotten above about 42C, I don't know what the problem could be with it. It's a 3.2g, so I don't bother OC'ing it. Though, for the past few months, my monitor...don't remember which one...shows it going from 3.2 -> 0.8 -> something else -> back to 3.2, eventually, but never staying in one place for more than a couple of seconds, at most, even when the machine is idle.

edit: That changed nothing. After resetting the mobo, putting it back together, upon initial boot, it went right through the Gigabyte splash screen and froze at the steady cursor indicating no boot devices. No prompting about it being reset, nothing.

A quick jab at the reset button, and, oh, here's that prompt. Yeah, load defaults and reboot. I go into the BIOS after rebooting, 'cause this is exactly what I did, before, and change it to IDE, save and restart...back to a steady cursor.

That's it for me. I give up. Ten days is long enough to work on this. Working one time out of a couple of hundred is not acceptable.


----------



## PetGz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> U guys with the ud5 rev 3, with latest bios the (fb) one. Can u change your ht and nb values in bios? I have the option to change them but they remain fixed at ht 2600mhz and nb 2200mhz even after i change the values and save and reboot. They wont change


I have the same problem ( only NB, HT ok) in UD7 v1.1 with last Bios.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mckellyb*
> 
> Let me see what I have, but I don't think I have an extra SATA drive sitting around. The thing which kills me is, even with just a CD-ROM connected, on any SATA port, "no bootable device detected, kicking your lame self back to the BIOS", appears.
> 
> Better board, eh? Suggestions on what works well with a Phenom II x6, yet is still not three fortunes? Full size ATX is fine, the HAF 932 is huge.
> 
> Yeah, I feel an RMA coming on. Though, my old system _did_ bite the dust, and I saw it happen, which was a bit weird.


A better board? Asus still has a solid reputation, Asrock is ok if you don't overclock, the UD5 seems to be ok, but I have my eye on this MSI board.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130649


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

PetGz:

Hmmm strange problem we got, i guess we just have to wait for new bios and that it will be solved then but it feels like there should be more ppl with same problem that we have, strange that u got same problem and u are on the ud7 board and i am on the ud5 mobo. Guessings that we dont got same bios. Will write to gigabyte support and let u know the answer so keep eyes on thread.


----------



## PetGz

I will back to F10 Bios ( currently F11a *Beta*).


----------



## mckellyb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> A better board? Asus still has a solid reputation, Asrock is ok if you don't overclock, the UD5 seems to be ok, but I have my eye on this MSI board.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130649


Thank you. I was eyeballing this exact one... Never had an MSI, before, but I'm open to new things.


----------



## miklkit

Got another response from Gigabyte. It seems they might want to RMA my board. It's time to put my old 2007 puter back together again so I will have something to use, unless I can talk my wife into letting me buy a new board.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well at least they are issuing someone an RMA over this instead of ignoring/making excuses.


----------



## FiatluX

Is that a faint light at the end of the tunnel?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Got another response from Gigabyte. It seems they might want to RMA my board. It's time to put my old 2007 puter back together again so I will have something to use, unless I can talk my wife into letting me buy a new board.


I actually attempted to get an answer about RMAs to see if they would upgrade the board and was told "we don't know" and "if so it may come with a charge". But they didn't tell me who to contact to ask so yeah still stuck.

Also got told again they have no issues on their end, which probably means they will not RMA my board since they don't believe there is no issue.


----------



## SeriousTom

My stock heatsink appears to have had good contact and no board warpage. I had ordered a NZXT Kraken X60 and decided to replace the Mosfet heatsink anyway. Here's a few pictures.


----------



## Fordox

and the results are?


----------



## SeriousTom

My Heatsink temps, if what shows on AIDA 64 is the motherboard temps dropped an average of 10 degrees Fareheight and the CPU has gone down from 114 when gaming to about 82 degrees.
I"m pretty pleased and the Kraken stays on silent, even when gaming.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> My Heatsink temps, if what shows on AIDA 64 is the motherboard temps dropped an average of 10 degrees Fareheight and the CPU has gone down from 114 when gaming to about 82 degrees.
> I"m pretty pleased and the Kraken stays on silent, even when gaming.


Fahrenheit I assume? That would be insane otherwise.


----------



## hurricane28

Is there anyone who knows there is a waterblock for the UD5? i want to water cool my system but i want the mosfet and the NB cooled too so is there anyone who has tried to fit WB on it?


----------



## miklkit

Hmm. 82F = 28C. That is cold! My TMPIN2 is that hot or hotter doing nothing, like right now. Of course my temps are not stable, going from 17C/62F to 31C/87F while doing nothing.
I'm a little concerned about the plastic tie wrap melting if it gets too hot. When I run OCCT small data set the case behind those VRMs gets too hot to touch, but I have a warped board and bad contact.

Gigabyte said they want to inspect this board. If they do RMA this board will the Thermalright cooler be enough to keep it alive? My wife, the keeper of the checkbook, says no new board.


----------



## FiatluX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Here is latest 990fxa ud3 rev 3 beta bios fdc: http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/upload/files/BIOS_990FXA-UD3_3.0_FDc.zip. I got it from gigabyte forum but I didn't tried it yet. Maybe it can solve some problems with throtteling?


Did anyone try this bios, what´s new?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> Did anyone try this bios, what´s new?


I did but my pc wasn't stable. However there are some new menus, for example APM switch in CPU settings menu.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Is there anyone who knows there is a waterblock for the UD5? i want to water cool my system but i want the mosfet and the NB cooled too so is there anyone who has tried to fit WB on it?


There isn't a fullboard wb solution for the UD5, but there are several universal blocks that are compatible with the UD5:

Alphacool HF 14
Koolance CHC-122 (NB)
Koolance CHC-125 (SB)
Koolance MVR-40 (VRMs with 107.5mm heat transfer plate)
XSPC X20 Delta V3 (I believe it is both NB & SB Compatible but can't find anything to confirm this, my board measurements lead me to say yes though)
Zalman ZM-NWB1

There may be others out there, and some of these may not be compatible with either the NB or SB, but from the measurements I have off of my board and these should be compatible blocks.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hmm. 82F = 28C. That is cold! My TMPIN2 is that hot or hotter doing nothing, like right now. Of course my temps are not stable, going from 17C/62F to 31C/87F while doing nothing.
> I'm a little concerned about the plastic tie wrap melting if it gets too hot. When I run OCCT small data set the case behind those VRMs gets too hot to touch, but I have a warped board and bad contact.
> 
> Gigabyte said they want to inspect this board. If they do RMA this board will the Thermalright cooler be enough to keep it alive? My wife, the keeper of the checkbook, says no new board.


I figured the plastic Ty-rap holding it has a lot more beef than the small plastic push-pins did.
Will Gigabyte frown on you replacing their stock heatsink ?
I did hot glue a small piece of Bakelite underneath the mobo centered on the mosfets, just in case.
Wives can be mean sometimes


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PetGz*
> 
> I will back to F10 Bios ( currently F11a *Beta*).


Can u change the NB and HT speeds now? Did it solve the problem to change bios?

One question to u all overclockers here, my NB is fixed at 2200mhz and my HT at 2600mhz, i have overclocked to 4.72 and got good temps. But my NB volt is at 1.1volt. Could it help me to overclock higher
with my NB Volt raised to like 1.2v maybe instead of 1.1v. Aand how high can i go on the NB volt, on air its safe to go to 1.3v i think ive heard.

But to sum it up:

Can it help me to overclocker higher if i raise my NB volt to 1.2?


----------



## FiatluX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I did but my pc wasn't stable. However there are some new menus, for example APM switch in CPU settings menu.


Thx!
So the instability was bios induced then was it?


----------



## Recursion

I didn't tried it long because of this. Also the profiles files format changed every bios version which doesn't help with a good oc. I want to have better unlock, ram profiles and vcore features but I'm happy it works with the fc bios.


----------



## FiatluX

I see, thx!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Can u change the NB and HT speeds now? Did it solve the problem to change bios?
> 
> One question to u all overclockers here, my NB is fixed at 2200mhz and my HT at 2600mhz, i have overclocked to 4.72 and got good temps. But my NB volt is at 1.1volt. Could it help me to overclock higher
> with my NB Volt raised to like 1.2v maybe instead of 1.1v. Aand how high can i go on the NB volt, on air its safe to go to 1.3v i think ive heard.
> 
> But to sum it up:
> 
> Can it help me to overclocker higher if i raise my NB volt to 1.2?


You don't want to increase volts to the north bridge. I think you mean the Cpu NB/IMC which in that case you can safely go to 1.4 volts granted you can keep it cool. You shouldn't have to increase this voltage much for stability, unless your increasing your nb to like 2400mhz+ and are running fast memory.

mines at default value, with my nb at 2365mhz, cpu at 5052mhz, fsb 215mhz, hypertransport 2795mhz, memory 2006mhz 9-9-9-27 Rock stable

with 1.5 volts to the cpu only. no other voltage increases unless you count the memory which is set to 1.65 instead of 1.5


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> You don't want to increase volts to the north bridge. I think you mean the Cpu NB/IMC which in that case you can safely go to 1.4 volts granted you can keep it cool. You shouldn't have to increase this voltage much for stability, unless your increasing your nb to like 2400mhz+ and are running fast memory.
> 
> mines at default value, with my nb at 2365mhz, cpu at 5052mhz, fsb 215mhz, hypertransport 2795mhz, memory 2006mhz 9-9-9-27 Rock stable
> 
> with 1.5 volts to the cpu only. no other voltage increases unless you count the memory which is set to 1.65 instead of 1.5


Nice 5ghz on 1.5v grats m8 good job there







I mean my cpu/nb. Could it increase stabilty to increase it to maybe 1.2v since my nb speed is locked at 2200mhz or do i need to go to 1.3v and wiöll this help my clock to maybe 4.8 stable easier and maybe lower vcor? Wich volt do you have for your NB?


----------



## ebduncan

stock volts on everything minus the vcore which is at 1.5. (well set to 1.525 in bios but after vdroop its at 1.5 volts on the dot) Under custom water loop with 520mm of rad space. (never goes above 44c)

You can try to increase the CPU NB voltage, doing so increases the amount of heat generated by the processor, much like vcore. So watch your temperatures. Increasing the voltage here can stabilize a higher overclock. My old 8120 liked voltage on the Cpu Nb.


----------



## BuZADAM

990 FXA UD7 REV 1.0 WILL NOT SUPPORT FX 9590 CPU gigabyte answer the my question


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I wouldn't say it WON'T support it. The CPU hasn't been released yet for starters. Second they are referring you to look at the currently supported list. That is hardly a set in stone answer.


----------



## mk16

Hi everybody!

Im looking at a ud3 and a 8320 and maybe some overclocking... ok overclocking as much a possible. So I was just wondering who here has the board and what can I expect overclocking wise?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> Hi everybody!
> 
> Im looking at a ud3 and a 8320 and maybe some overclocking... ok overclocking as much a possible. So I was just wondering who here has the board and what can I expect overclocking wise?


If you want to get a UD3 you'll need to make sure it's not a revision 3.0 or you'll have problems, honestly if you can squeeze a little more money get a better board, especially since you want to OC.


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> If you want to get a UD3 you'll need to make sure it's not a revision 3.0 or you'll have problems, honestly if you can squeeze a little more money get a better board, especially since you want to OC.


May I ask what problems the revision 3.0 has?


----------



## MrWayne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> May I ask what problems the revision 3.0 has?


Lucky you, i've got an ud3 rev 1.1 and an fx 8320 overclocked. I can run battlefield 3 without crashing at 4.5 Ghz, though not benchmarking, my cooler is too small to cool this thing, so now im running it at 4.2 with turbo to 4.5 Ghz. The northbridge gets HOT, don't know about the ud5 or ud7 much but i think they have better heatsinks on their chipsets, i would consider them for OC


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> May I ask what problems the revision 3.0 has?


The short answer is to scan the last 100 or so pages of this thread.

The longer answer is that it seems those with 4XXX series cpus have no problems.
Those with 6XXX series cpus are mostly trouble free, but some do have overheating issues.
Most of those with 8XXX series cpus have overheating problems. Some buy a dedicated fan for the VRMs, some buy aftermarket coolers, and some do both. The trick is to do it before the board warps from the heat. Or get a better board.

I have an aftermarket cooler and lotsa fans on a warped board and with the 8350 at 4.5ghz it can run games but not do benchmarks or stress tests. 4.6ghz is out of reach because it is on the other side of the thermal barrier.


----------



## FiatluX

Just wanted to let the v.3.0 ´ers know that I´m running the FDc bios with a modest 3800 multiplier OC without any apparent adverse effects, it seems to run a degree or 2 lower but that might just be placebo..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

If I get bored later I may flash it and unhook my fan to see what it does. My bet is on it throttles.


----------



## BuZADAM

this is my 990fxa ud7 motherboard nb and vrm cooling solution


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> Just wanted to let the v.3.0 ´ers know that I´m running the FDc bios with a modest 3800 multiplier OC without any apparent adverse effects, it seems to run a degree or 2 lower but that might just be placebo..


not real enthusiastic about beta-Bios's in general but in the event I got a wild hair, could you post the link for same?
I took a cruse just now by the regular GB support n DL page and saw only the non-beta ones...
weirjuget it? yeah I know I could probly googleit...........


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Here is latest 990fxa ud3 rev 3 beta bios fdc: http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/upload/files/BIOS_990FXA-UD3_3.0_FDc.zip. I got it from gigabyte forum but I didn't tried it yet. Maybe it can solve some problems with throtteling?


thanks and never mind!


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> First they would have to sell a warping repair kit lol but yeah they definitely should offer us something.
> Are you using a Rev 3 UD3 or is an earlier one? This whole throttling thing seems to effect only Rev 3 boards.


either it's not a REV 3.0 or (IMO) what he meant to say was "no issues here, _*yet..*_."


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yeah definitely yet if it's a rev 3


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is my 990fxa ud7 motherboard nb and vrm cooling solution


Two fans!!! But how are they held down? Too bad they would not fit in my air cooled rig.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I see zip ties. So my guess is zip ties and magic!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I see zip ties. So my guess is zip ties and magic!


haha probably so.

Figured i would update everyone. Gigabyte accepted my RMA ( my onboard network lan stopped working ) Everything else works fine still thankfully ( i hate being with out my desktop) To my surprise Gigabyte shipped the replacement with a return shipping label to me. I have yet to get the new board, but i hope its a rev 1.1 board. I dunno if I want to try messing with the rev 3.0 board, after i read all the issues on here.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Man I sincerely hope you get a 1.1 board. You do not want these issues. However if you go ahead and shim the bottom of the board in the VRM area and add a fan you may not experience them. Nip it in the bud, so to speak. I'm bored now so I'm going to download the beta and see what happens. I'll report back in 30 minutes or so with my findings.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well my board seems to really despise the beta BIOS. This one does the same exact thing the other beta's I've tried to flash does. It just locks up. Each and every time. So I'm back on FC again. One of you other guys give it a shot if you could and see what happens for you.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I see zip ties. So my guess is zip ties and magic!


That's a UD7 so it probably works out logically, but for a UD3 I see a zip tie going under the heat sink between two VRMs.

What is that plastic burning smell?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is my 990fxa ud7 motherboard nb and vrm cooling solution
> 
> 
> 
> Two fans!!! But how are they held down? Too bad they would not fit in my air cooled rig.
Click to expand...



This is my UD7 (rev 1.1) 'No zip ties hehehe.
I have had this single 80mm fan on the VRM HS and @ 5.3GHz everything OC'd it gets tepid at best.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Yeah definitely yet if it's a rev 3


SOUNDS LIKE he just oc'd and then played a game, not any real stress testing (and no word on ambient temps)


----------



## BuZADAM

I used two NOCTUA NF-A6x25 FLX for nb and vrm area.

two fans more effective than one . and more quiet than yours xigmatek

ı used plastic clip for fans to hold and this method more easy then others.


----------



## BuZADAM

I used two NOCTUA NF-A6x25 FLX for nb and vrm area.

ı used plastic clip for fans to hold and this method more easy then others.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 
> 
> This is my UD7 (rev 1.1) 'No zip ties hehehe.
> I have had this single 80mm fan on the VRM HS and @ 5.3GHz everything OC'd it gets tepid at best.


awfully dang purdy I must say !.... but I'm not ponyin' up for a UD7 anytime soon here tho'....
I DID in fact pick up that ENZO-MST-88 HS whilst I was back in the US there, (that frozencpu place was pretty impressive I must say)
and further nod2ozzy, while I was at it, a low profile 80mm case fan to go with it. I'm actually looking FWD to figuring out the best way to
rig-up the fan without having look too well, you know... probably end up with zipties, since I have like well, a lot.








I had to work (12h shifts) the day after I got back and the next 4 days so I haven't even had a chance to turn the new GB build on yet since i been back.
Day highs here are now pushin 80 tho' so I'm gonna have to either do the remaining cooling-mods or leave it off except for very short runs and what fun is that?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> I used two NOCTUA NF-A6x25 FLX for nb and vrm area.
> 
> two fans more effective than one . and more quiet than yours xigmatek
> 
> ı used plastic clip for fans to hold and this method more easy then others.


well I didn't know it was a contest, but okay.
1) you apparently didn't compare specs. My Xigmatek is just as quiet as your Noctuas at same speed
2) how quiet the Noctuas are is irrelevant as your MSI GPU fans are louder anyway
3) You are using 2 x 60mm fans , I am using 1X 80mm fan. Do the math on the fan surface area.








4) Xigmatek has higher static pressure
5) 0 Visible fasteners (no bracket, no zip ties. Zero vibration)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> I used two NOCTUA NF-A6x25 FLX for nb and vrm area.
> 
> ı used plastic clip for fans to hold and this method more easy then others.


All I did for my NB was pull the original hs off, give it shot of articsilver the put it back on mashing the springs by about 2X.
since then I've tried hard not to bump it. I assume it's more secure....


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> Yeah, unless your DVD drive or disc are toast (as you have two and have tried multiple discs that would be bad luck indeed), then it's likely that the CPU is failing. You could try changing the multiplier to x7 and see what that gets you, I guess. I am out of ideas.


snap. (CPU)
that was my gut but I figgured (for a change) I'd read a few follow on posts before piping up....









never liked bad MB since the behavior began with a different board.
to me, as I read it, the only parts not eliminated was the video card and CPU.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mckellyb*
> 
> Let me see what I have, but I don't think I have an extra SATA drive sitting around. The thing which kills me is, even with just a CD-ROM connected, on any SATA port, "no bootable device detected, kicking your lame self back to the BIOS", appears.
> 
> Better board, eh? Suggestions on what works well with a Phenom II x6, yet is still not three fortunes? Full size ATX is fine, the HAF 932 is huge.
> 
> Yeah, I feel an RMA coming on. Though, my old system _did_ bite the dust, and I saw it happen, which was a bit weird.


no SATA port coughin' up a bootable device, rom OR hd? hmmmmm!
that UD3 will gladly boot to a USB (if pointed to same) I keep a base copy of XP loaded on an old 16GB stick for just such occasions....

(Spare HD's new and old also are SOP in mahouse! Spare video cards also. AGP/PCI/PCIE, and whatever was before AGP I forget but I should have a couple of those.
PS and cases come and go, but certian things I like to hang on to....)


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mckellyb*
> 
> riemann42, I owe you a beer! Maybe a few.
> 
> I reset everything, AGAIN, the machine was sitting idle overnight, fired it up, changed _*JUST*_ AHCI to IDE in the BIOS, save and reboot, and whadda know, it booted!!!
> 
> Even ran for about 35 minutes.
> 
> I left it to work out, or else I'd have been there for four hours, came back, changed the resolution, Windows said it needed to be restarted to save some changes, so meh, why not?
> 
> Oh...I'm back to not being able to find any bootable media.
> 
> Now I have a theory. I think it may be the CPU has an issue with being even remotely warm. I put it in the freezer, will pull it out after about 20 minutes, and see if it boots. If it does, I'll reboot, and see if it's okay. If so, I'll let it get warm, then reboot one more time. I suspect it'll do nothing and then I have my answer.
> 
> THANKS!!!
> 
> I'll be back when I determine a pattern. This AMD Phenom II x6 has never gotten above about 42C, I don't know what the problem could be with it. It's a 3.2g, so I don't bother OC'ing it. Though, for the past few months, my monitor...don't remember which one...shows it going from 3.2 -> 0.8 -> something else -> back to 3.2, eventually, but never staying in one place for more than a couple of seconds, at most, even when the machine is idle.
> 
> edit: That changed nothing. After resetting the mobo, putting it back together, upon initial boot, it went right through the Gigabyte splash screen and froze at the steady cursor indicating no boot devices. No prompting about it being reset, nothing.
> 
> A quick jab at the reset button, and, oh, here's that prompt. Yeah, load defaults and reboot. I go into the BIOS after rebooting, 'cause this is exactly what I did, before, and change it to IDE, save and restart...back to a steady cursor.
> 
> That's it for me. I give up. Ten days is long enough to work on this. Working one time out of a couple of hundred is not acceptable.


Going back and forth with AHCI and IDE I BELIEVE can be BAD for the DRIVE, or problematic at best I seem to recall having read that somewhere....
I'm not sure how (if at all) it effects ROM drives.... To be sure, before you chuck the CPU, GET A NEW-never-used HD (always good to have another anyway)
and maybe just for grins, a new ROM drive ($25) (also good to have on hand anyway) set the SATA-in-BIOS to AHCI (ports 0-3) and ports 4-5 to IDE, plug the
HD into any 0-3, the ROM drive into 4 or 5, ( I'm pretty sure the ROM drive can go in any port and not make a difference, but just try this anyway) thow yer windows setup booter into the rom drive and (duh) try to boot from the ROM. If that's bust I'm back to CPU. Still not lovin' the board for this since this nightmare began on another BOARD. nkay?


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> well I didn't know it was a contest, but okay.
> 1) you apparently didn't compare specs. My Xigmatek is just as quiet as your Noctuas at same speed
> 2) how quiet the Noctuas are is irrelevant as your MSI GPU fans are louder anyway
> 3) You are using 2 x 60mm fans , I am using 1X 80mm fan. Do the math on the fan surface area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) Xigmatek has higher static pressure
> 5) 0 Visible fasteners (no bracket, no zip ties. Zero vibration)


First.

1. you sould do the math 2x60mm fans = 120mm total area. 120mm > 80mm

2. and then you must have understand what read. ı just compare nb vrm cooling but you say msi gpu fans.

3. you must search before speak . this gpu has a dual profile swich for fans per. or silent. this gpu more quiet than other brands gpu even under load.. ( but ı agree your gpu setup more quiet anyway.)

4. and your xigmatek fan only cover nb hs and some vrm hs . my setup near full cover nb and vrm hs. so that more effective and more cooling area

5. I agree yours 0 visible but ı did say my method very EASY THAN OHTERS ( ı think you use silicon or screw or double-sided tape for make 0 visible)

6. this noctua fans no cause any vibration.. and noctua one of the best.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 
> 
> This is my UD7 (rev 1.1) 'No zip ties hehehe.
> I have had this single 80mm fan on the VRM HS and @ 5.3GHz everything OC'd it gets tepid at best.


And ı dont do contest . you make contest ( This is my UD7 (rev 1.1) 'No zip ties hehehe.)

ı just want to Show other way the cooling solution for nb and vrm ..

I AM not contest for which one more beauty or best etc.

you jumping "This is my UD7 (rev 1.1) 'No zip ties hehehe "


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> First.
> 
> 1. you sould do the math 2x60mm fans = 120mm total area. 120mm > 80mm
> 
> 2. and then you must have understand what read. ı just compare nb vrm cooling but you say msi gpu fans.
> 
> 3. you must search before speak . this gpu has a dual profile swich for fans per. or silent. this gpu more quiet than other brands gpu even under load.. ( but ı agree your gpu setup more quiet anyway.)
> 
> 4. and your xigmatek fan only cover nb hs and some vrm hs . my setup near full cover nb and vrm hs. so that more effective and more cooling area
> 
> 5. I agree yours 0 visible but ı did say my method very EASY THAN OHTERS ( ı think you use silicon or screw or double-sided tape for make 0 visible)
> 
> 6. this noctua fans no cause any vibration.. and noctua one of the best.


actually 2x60mm is not as effective as a single 120mm fan, why? because you have two fan motors with dead spots. a 80mm fan will provide almost as much air as dual 60mm fans.

the 2 fan setup is nice but could be far more efficient with a single 120mm fan, or even a high output 80mm fan. Not that it is really that important , because as long as the cooling you provide works it doesn't really matter how its done. Me personally like Red I have a single 80mm fan blowing on both the VRM and the northbridge.


----------



## mk16

so after reading a few pages back it looks like heat is a problem with the udx-990fx boards and not only that but people cant increase their NB and HT values on the ud5.

would i just be better off getting this cheaper asus board over the gigy ud5?
http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_1205_335&item_id=049784

edit: also now im going to be getting a 6300 instead of the 8320 sadly.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> well I didn't know it was a contest, but okay.
> 1) you apparently didn't compare specs. My Xigmatek is just as quiet as your Noctuas at same speed
> 2) how quiet the Noctuas are is irrelevant as your MSI GPU fans are louder anyway
> 3) You are using 2 x 60mm fans , I am using 1X 80mm fan. Do the math on the fan surface area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4) Xigmatek has higher static pressure
> 5) 0 Visible fasteners (no bracket, no zip ties. Zero vibration)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First.
> 
> 1. you sould do the math 2x60mm fans = 120mm total area. 120mm > 80mm
> Thats not how it works. 2 x 60mm fans = 5625 sq mm / 1 x 80mm fans = 5024 sq mm. While slightly larger, not as effective
> 
> 2. and then you must have understand what read. ı just compare nb vrm cooling but you say msi gpu fans.
> No, a 20 dB fan does not matter if you have louder fans in the system ( a system is only as quiet as its loudest fan)
> You could use the L.N.A or U.L.N.A. adapters, of course this would severely lower the CFM and static pressure of the Noctua.
> 
> 3. you must search before speak . this gpu has a dual profile swich for fans per. or silent. this gpu more quiet than other brands gpu even under load.. ( but ı agree your gpu setup more quiet anyway.)
> I do "search before speak" as you put it It does not matter, either fan profile for your GPU's are much louder that the NB/VRM fan setup of which we are speaking.
> 
> 4. and your xigmatek fan only cover nb hs and some vrm hs . my setup near full cover nb and vrm hs. so that more effective and more cooling area
> This was my main point. My single 800mm cools both areas and neither exceed 36c under heavily overclocked loads. I tried a dual fan setup, this works identically.
> Also your Noctuas have to run at 3000 RPM to push 29.2 CFM whereas the XImatek needs only 2200 RPM to produce exactly the same CFM's as well as having higher static pressure)
> The "coverage" is done by moving air, not the fan itself. They are both right up against the NB/VRM heatsink and the center hub takes up much of this. the air movement is the concern here
> 
> 5. I agree yours 0 visible but ı did say my method very EASY THAN OHTERS ( ı think you use silicon or screw or double-sided tape for make 0 visible)
> I use non of those methods of attachment.
> 
> 6. this noctua fans no cause any vibration.. and noctua one of the best.
Click to expand...

same here Xigmatek uses a FCB


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> same here Xigmatek uses a FCB










you are still contest and compare gpu fans.. .. are you still gpu fans







pass it. ı am only talking about vrm nb hs cooling .

I put this solution for WHO wants to make alternative and active cooling nb and vrm area for ud7 ( my solution )

ı dont use lna or ulna adator. use fan controler fans at 2600 rpm

any one dont have to my method or your . this is only choice ( who want to use what you want) so your contest and compare and etc pointless

have nice day.

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=48&lng=en&set=2

http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=48&lng=en&set=1


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 
> 
> This is my UD7 (rev 1.1) 'No zip ties hehehe.
> I have had this single 80mm fan on the VRM HS and @ 5.3GHz everything OC'd it gets tepid at best.


Why not buying a water block for it since you are on water?

And is that 80mm fan enough to cool all the vrm? i mean i have 120mm fan on it and that is not even covering the whole vrm, i know it spreads the heat though the heat sink but still.

I am not trying to start big discussion here but i am just wondering


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I had to go with the slim 80mm. There was no room for anything bigger with my 620's radiator being right there. Its working still. Its just loud as hell.


----------



## hurricane28

A i see in your setup but i mean he has water cooling bro, and there are complete water blocks for the UD7 and if that not fits because of the graphic cards than there are vrm water blocks that will fit.

Also what are your max vrm temps now with that fan?

You were right about my temps man, i lowered my CPU OC because i need some massive cooling man with this chip to be stable at 5ghz, i need at least 1.6 volts for that.

My temps are now: CPU 0 idle between 16 and 21c and motherboard around 30c and temp 3 is like 24, under load its 48 CPU and temp 3 is 55, so those temps are much better than before









I did not notice any performance drop so i do not see any reason of getting 5gzh to be honest because when i play games i do not get less or more frames than when i am on 5ghz, even when it does its very difficult to OC the rest too when you are at the max of OC of the chip i noticed because i could not get stable at 2570 CPUNB and HT link at 3000 and RAM 2400 but now i can and windows feels much snappier with high CPUNB.

High HT link can get some performance boost too i noticed, so i would rather have high HT link and CPUNB than the max OC of my chip than maxed chip and no headroom for other components to OC because i do not see any reason at all to have 5ghz while you can run the rest at stock speeds.

In my opinion 5ghz is good for benchmarking but for everyday use i would go for 4.6 with the high RAM speed and low timings with high HT Link and CPUNB because that will gain much more performance when only the CPU is overclocked, also it runs significantly longer because it is not at its limits


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 
> 
> This is my UD7 (rev 1.1) 'No zip ties hehehe.
> I have had this single 80mm fan on the VRM HS and @ 5.3GHz everything OC'd it gets tepid at best.
> 
> 
> 
> Why not buying a water block for it since you are on water?
> 
> And is that 80mm fan enough to cool all the vrm? i mean i have 120mm fan on it and that is not even covering the whole vrm, i know it spreads the heat though the heat sink but still.
> 
> I am not trying to start big discussion here but i am just wondering
Click to expand...

I am not sure why the obsession with 'Physical coverage" with fans, fan frames. The 80mm fan keeps the VRM and NB 50c below the accepted operating temps. Like I said they get tepid at best.
As far as the question about why no chipset block? I really prefer the look of the UD7's heatsinks, and with the VRM and NB running in the 30's it is just a preference of looks. Same reason I do not watercool my RAM.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> A i see in your setup but i mean he has water cooling bro, and there are complete water blocks for the UD7 and if that not fits because of the graphic cards than there are vrm water blocks that will fit.
> 
> Also what are your max vrm temps now with that fan?
> 
> You were right about my temps man, i lowered my CPU OC because i need some massive cooling man with this chip to be stable at 5ghz, i need at least 1.6 volts for that.
> 
> My temps are now: CPU 0 idle between 16 and 21c and motherboard around 30c and temp 3 is like 24, under load its 48 CPU and temp 3 is 55, so those temps are much better than before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not notice any performance drop so i do not see any reason of getting 5gzh to be honest because when i play games i do not get less or more frames than when i am on 5ghz, even when it does its very difficult to OC the rest too when you are at the max of OC of the chip i noticed because i could not get stable at 2570 CPUNB and HT link at 3000 and RAM 2400 but now i can and windows feels much snappier with high CPUNB.
> 
> High HT link can get some performance boost too i noticed, so i would rather have high HT link and CPUNB than the max OC of my chip than maxed chip and no headroom for other components to OC because i do not see any reason at all to have 5ghz while you can run the rest at stock speeds.
> 
> In my opinion 5ghz is good for benchmarking but for everyday use i would go for 4.6 with the high RAM speed and low timings with high HT Link and CPUNB because that will gain much more performance when only the CPU is overclocked, also it runs significantly longer because it is not at its limits


Honestly I'm not sure what the VRM temps are. Still hot as hell, even with the fan the heatsink burns bad. I need to get an IR thermometer and see what it is really at.


----------



## FiatluX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well my board seems to really despise the beta BIOS. This one does the same exact thing the other beta's I've tried to flash does. It just locks up. Each and every time. So I'm back on FC again. One of you other guys give it a shot if you could and see what happens for you.


Had a couple of lockups myself, I´m back FC too


----------



## miklkit

This fan, that fan.........Meh. None of them will fit in my air cooled rig.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> Had a couple of lockups myself, I´m back FC too


I couldn't even get into the BIOS. Every beta BIOS I've flashed locks up when I try to enter it.


----------



## hurricane28

@Red1776:

Okay fair enough









@ OzzyRules: I have HWINFO64 always running in the back ground so i always check what my temp 3 is like.

It is never higher than 60c and that's at a very warm day so i am happy with it.


----------



## ebduncan

are you guys using gigabytes windows bios tool?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> are you guys using gigabytes windows bios tool?


When i was updating the bios yes i used that program, why?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> @Red1776:
> 
> Okay fair enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ OzzyRules: I have HWINFO64 always running in the back ground so i always check what my temp 3 is like.
> 
> It is never higher than 60c and that's at a very warm day so i am happy with it.


On every program I use TMPIN2/Temperature 3 is identical the CPU package temps and its usually within a few degrees of TMPIN1.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> are you guys using gigabytes windows bios tool?


Yes that is what I'm using. I also have no issue flashing back to FC with it after flashing a garbage Beta. I actually have no choice but use it after flashing the beta because if I even think of using the BIOS the thing locks up.


----------



## hurricane28

yeah i remember that you had some issues with that,

kinda strange man, is that the board? because there is an sensor on the chip itself that reads the temps, right?

O man if that was my board i would smash it man i can't stand those things.

I thought you bought another board yet? i am very happy with my UD5 now but my chip is utter crap, so i guess we all have our problems


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

No I haven't gotten a new board yet. I decided since its "working" I'm going to fix the things I need done to the project car first then grab a Sabertooth


----------



## ebduncan

not sure, but in the gigabyte bios ultity, are you setting it to clear the DMI pool?

if you cannot load in the beta bios, that seems odd. Why would they post a bios up on the site which doesn't work at all? Then again this is gigabyte we are talking about.

It may be a issue with the dual bios. When you flash to a new bios, it only flashes your primary bios with the new one. The back up bios is left alone. So you may actually have to flash the bios twice. The first time you flash it will make your primary bios the new bios, then flash it again, to make the primary go to the backup and then both will be the new bios. Not sure if this will fix the problem your having with the new beta bios, but might be worth trying.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Seriously I have yet to successfully enter any of the beta's. Everyone of them lock up on my machine. Another member tried one of the earlier beta's and confirmed the same thing happened on his machine because I am pretty quick to blame my garbage board lol


----------



## ebduncan

you already said that.....

was trying to help,. but w/e


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

And you find my comment insulting somehow? At one point with a beta I thought I had completely nuked the board as I wasn't able to get it to post for about 30 minutes. I had nothing but a black screen and the machine making no attempt at coming on. I assure you I have jumped through hoops that most guys wouldn't think of looking for. Maybe the beta's are fine, maybe my board is faulty. I don't know, however I'm not the only one that has experienced it so I have that reassurance.


----------



## Recursion

Here is book about bios. Very nice too read: http://ebook.pldworld.com/_eBook/dosref33/ and not cheap either.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> not sure, but in the gigabyte bios ultity, are you setting it to clear the DMI pool?
> 
> if you cannot load in the beta bios, that seems odd. Why would they post a bios up on the site which doesn't work at all? Then again this is gigabyte we are talking about.
> 
> It may be a issue with the dual bios. When you flash to a new bios, it only flashes your primary bios with the new one. The back up bios is left alone. So you may actually have to flash the bios twice. The first time you flash it will make your primary bios the new bios, then flash it again, to make the primary go to the backup and then both will be the new bios. Not sure if this will fix the problem your having with the new beta bios, but might be worth trying.


you dont need clear dmı data pool. left as default. only tick load cmos defaul after bios update. for when your using @bios in Windows.

What is a BETA?

BETA describes a new version that is reliable yet may not include all the features of the final product. During this phase we are previewing new features and gathering customer input to insure our product provides the best experience possible.

So that I use f10 bios for my 990fxa ud7


----------



## FiatluX

I simply dont trust microsoft enough to flash a bios from within windows, I always do it via usb etc.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

To bad the @bios feature seems to have worked fine for many ppl for as long as it has been out!


----------



## OverclockerFox

There's a couple of issues I could use advice on. First, a few minutes ago I came back after a while AFK, and the firefox window was still fuzzed out with the windows 'waiting' circle cursor animation. I swapped to a different FF window and the same thing happened. So I tried closing Firefox. When that didn't work, I tried rebooting. For some reason, the board couldn't find the boot disk. I forget the exact message. Rebooted a second time, got the same thing, and turned off the PC. Turned CPU settings back to stock, and booted into windows fine. Then rebooted and set it to my previous settings. What is this, exactly? BIOS error, regional board overheating, SSD firmware glitch? Or is it just some mystery fluke?

Also, while I was at it, I tried setting the memory to 1600 Mhz again, same thing. Board whines to me about an 'overclocking failure' then drops the memory down to 1333. Does anyone else have this happen on their UD7 with BIOS F10?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverclockerFox*
> 
> There's a couple of issues I could use advice on. First, a few minutes ago I came back after a while AFK, and the firefox window was still fuzzed out with the windows 'waiting' circle cursor animation. I swapped to a different FF window and the same thing happened. So I tried closing Firefox. When that didn't work, I tried rebooting. For some reason, the board couldn't find the boot disk. I forget the exact message. Rebooted a second time, got the same thing, and turned off the PC. Turned CPU settings back to stock, and booted into windows fine. Then rebooted and set it to my previous settings. What is this, exactly? BIOS error, regional board overheating, SSD firmware glitch? Or is it just some mystery fluke?
> 
> Also, while I was at it, I tried setting the memory to 1600 Mhz again, same thing. Board whines to me about an 'overclocking failure' then drops the memory down to 1333. Does anyone else have this happen on their UD7 with BIOS F10?


What revision is the board?

Seems bios error to me, did you reset the bios? there is an button on your board that says reset on it press that.

I have problems with Firefox too, when i want to send E-mail it crashes on me, very annoying.

Also when my system is not stable Firefox crashes too so maybe its your settings? What are your other settings?


----------



## OverclockerFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> What revision is the board?
> 
> Seems bios error to me, did you reset the bios? there is an button on your board that says reset on it press that.
> 
> I have problems with Firefox too, when i want to send E-mail it crashes on me, very annoying.
> 
> Also when my system is not stable Firefox crashes too so maybe its your settings? What are your other settings?


Rev. 1.1

Running CPU at 24x multi, +.125 V, 4.8 Ghz


----------



## hurricane28

Okay that is good revision.

And what are the rest of your setting? Like HT link CPUNB and voltages etc.

Do you have SSD? so yes did you set it to AHCI in bios? and did you configure windows correctly for your SSD?

The RAM can be the pain too because i had Corsair RAM too with lots of weird problems.

My guess is to reset the bios to stock and flash newest bios on it again and than slowly try to OC your FSB.


----------



## OverclockerFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Okay that is good revision.
> 
> And what are the rest of your setting? Like HT link CPUNB and voltages etc.


If they weren't default, I would have mentioned them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Do you have *AN* (fixed)SSD? so yes did you set it to AHCI in bios? and did you configure windows correctly for your SSD?


Yes, it's listed in my rig. Dunno if it's set to AHCI. I'd have to check. I don't think there's any special configuring you have to do for a windows install on SSD. If so, could you tell me what it is?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> The RAM can be the pain too because i had Corsair RAM too with lots of weird problems.


Huh. Ok. Thanks for the info.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> My guess is to reset the bios to stock and flash newest bios on it again and than slowly try to OC your FSB.


Why would a BIOS reset work? How is that different from resetting it to stock settings?
No, I AM NOT putting a beta BIOS on this board, I don't want to risk bricking it.

FSB OC might work, but I don't see why that would affect the RAM speed the board would accept.


----------



## hurricane28

Yes there is actually, look at this http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?63273-*-Windows-7-Ultimate-Tweaks-amp-Utilities-*

Lots of tweaks that makes windows faster and the ultimate set up for SSD's

Read closely tho because not everything is necessary to do









And for FSB, example: I have my RAM profile set to 2400 with my RAM with 11-11-11-33 timings with 1.655 volts, that the standard for rated 2400mhz RAM but they are based at the 1333 RAM so maybe if you have some good ram you can hit the same speed.

My FSB goes to 257 with that profile i used multipliers to OC the rest like CPU, CPUNB and HT link.

So my settings are now 257 CPUNB, HT link at 3084 and CPUNB at 2570 and my CPU 18x257 is 4.646 mhz. that is my best OC for my system.

Also i noticed that i cannot have high CPU overclock and high HT and CPUNB because that would gain more heat for me so in my opinion is that high HT link and CPUNB with good CPU overclock will gain the most speed out of your system because it would be pointless when have high CPU like 5ghz while the rest is at stock.

Good luck


----------



## OverclockerFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes there is actually, look at this http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?63273-*-Windows-7-Ultimate-Tweaks-amp-Utilities-*
> 
> Lots of tweaks that makes windows faster and the ultimate set up for SSD's
> 
> Read closely tho because not everything is necessary to do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And for FSB, example: I have my RAM profile set to 2400 with my RAM with 11-11-11-33 timings with 1.655 volts, that the standard for rated 2400mhz RAM but they are based at the 1333 RAM so maybe if you have some good ram you can hit the same speed.
> 
> My FSB goes to 257 with that profile i used multipliers to OC the rest like CPU, CPUNB and HT link.
> 
> So my settings are now 257 CPUNB, HT link at 3084 and CPUNB at 2570 and my CPU 18x257 is 4.646 mhz. that is my best OC for my system.
> 
> Also i noticed that i cannot have high CPU overclock and high HT and CPUNB because that would gain more heat for me so in my opinion is that high HT link and CPUNB with good CPU overclock will gain the most speed out of your system because it would be pointless when have high CPU like 5ghz while the rest is at stock.
> 
> Good luck


Thanks, this is very helpful!

That link and the options you mentioned seem like a lot to chew over, but I'll make sure to write some of what you said down to try it when I next reboot. I tend to be a bit on the lazy side, and I don't like rebooting often.







But it's good stuff to keep in mind.


----------



## hurricane28

Thnx and good luck man


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Hi








Looking for some advice on this board GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3

I currently have an ASUS M4N98TD EVO with a Phenom IIx6 1090T. I have my CPU OC'd to 4GHz (from 3.2 [email protected] it runs perfectly stable, no problems, I'm actually very very happy with that end of it...)

Unfortunately that's about the only good thing about this board







I want a new board that has everything my current board has PLUS what it's missing. (i don't want to buy a new CPU yet, I want to use my existing 1090T)

This board (GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3) has exactly what I want and also I found this to be a decent price at 114 from New Egg. My other option was a Sabertooth but quite frankly for the 179 I don't need (or want) all the extra it comes with

What I like about the Gigabyte:
USB 3.0
Sata III
AM3+ Socket (for when I decide to upgrade my CPU)

My question is will I be able to OC my 1090T as seemlessly and lovely as with my otherwise crappy-except-for-it's-OC-ability M4N98TD EVO? Is this a OC friendly board? I've read about issues with the BIOS but this board really seems to fit my needs to the letter

Thanks in advance for any help


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for some advice on this board GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
> 
> I currently have an ASUS M4N98TD EVO with a Phenom IIx6 1090T. I have my CPU OC'd to 4GHz (from 3.2 [email protected] it runs perfectly stable, no problems, I'm actually very very happy with that end of it...)
> 
> Unfortunately that's about the only good thing about this board
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want a new board that has everything my current board has PLUS what it's missing. (i don't want to buy a new CPU yet, I want to use my existing 1090T)
> 
> This board (GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3) has exactly what I want and also I found this to be a decent price at 114 from New Egg. My other option was a Sabertooth but quite frankly for the 179 I don't need (or want) all the extra it comes with
> 
> What I like about the Gigabyte:
> USB 3.0
> Sata III
> AM3+ Socket (for when I decide to upgrade my CPU)
> 
> My question is will I be able to OC my 1090T as seemlessly and lovely as with my otherwise crappy-except-for-it's-OC-ability M4N98TD EVO? Is this a OC friendly board? I've read about issues with the BIOS but this board really seems to fit my needs to the letter
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help


Hi,

The UD3 is an excellent choice for that kind of CPU, but make sure it is revision 1.1 because that has LLC (load line calibration)

The bad things you heard were probably from the revision 3.0

If you want even a better board i would suggest the UD5 rev. 1.1 like i have, it has better heat sinks on the VRM and has more capacitors so its more stable for max overclocks.

But if you want only descent overclocks and good looking board that performs outstanding, the UD3 would be to go with

Good luck


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> The UD3 is an excellent choice for that kind of CPU, but make sure it is revision 1.1 because that has LLC (load line calibration)
> 
> The bad things you heard were probably from the revision 3.0
> 
> If you want even a better board i would suggest the UD5 rev. 1.1 like i have, it has better heat sinks on the VRM and has more capacitors so its more stable for max overclocks.
> 
> But if you want only descent overclocks and good looking board that performs outstanding, the UD3 would be to go with
> 
> Good luck


Hey thanks so much for the speedy response. How would I know if I'm getting a rev 1.1? I'm looking here: Gigabyte GA-99FXA

Also now I'm really looking at the UD5 you suggested (I start to get nuts lol) but now that's entering the Sabortooth price range (almost) at $150 (from $115). Is it worth the extra $35? I will ultimately upgrade my CPU (dying to get that nice FX-8350 Vishera)

Thanks again


----------



## FiatluX

I´m running a 1090T on a UD3 V.3 @ 3800 multiplier only OC, so I think with a little more tweaking and depending your ram you could probably hit 4ghz stable..

Just guessing tho, gotta say that an extra fan on the vrm´s is pretty much mandatory!









Oh, and if you´re getting a 8350 then dont get the UD3!


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> I´m running a 1090T on a UD3 V.3 @ 3800 multiplier only OC, so I think with a little more tweaking and depending your ram you could probably hit 4ghz stable..
> 
> Just guessing tho, gotta say that an extra fan on the vrm´s is pretty much mandatory!


Yep that's exactly what I'm wondering about. I'm able to hit a steady 4GHz on my current board with ease. All I have is an H80i cooler and 16GB of 1600 DDR ram. Didn't even have to touch the BUS speed http://valid.canardpc.com/2838196

My hope was to not lose any of that with the new board and yet gain all the extras


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Hey thanks so much for the speedy response. How would I know if I'm getting a rev 1.1? I'm looking here: Gigabyte GA-99FXA
> 
> Also now I'm really looking at the UD5 you suggested (I start to get nuts lol) but now that's entering the Sabortooth price range (almost) at $150 (from $115). Is it worth the extra $35? I will ultimately upgrade my CPU (dying to get that nice FX-8350 Vishera)
> 
> Thanks again


NP bro









If you want to go for max overclocks and have plans to get yourself an FX 8350 i would suggest the UD5 rev 1.1 because of its better heat sinks, the 8350 can get pretty hot when you OC it so a better heat sink and some more capacitors would be the best choice.

The revision is on the board on the right under site next to the audio connectors but i cannot tel what revision that is from newegg but maybe you can give them a call or E-mail them.

Good luck


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> NP bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to go for max overclocks and have plans to get yourself an FX 8350 i would suggest the UD5 rev 1.1 because of its better heat sinks, the 8350 can get pretty hot when you OC it so a better heat sink and some more capacitors would be the best choice.
> 
> The revision is on the board on the right under site next to the audio connectors but i cannot tel what revision that is from newegg but maybe you can give them a call or E-mail them.
> 
> Good luck


Sold. UD5 it is. Still a better price than that Sabortooth and will help me out for when I upgrade my CPU. +1 Rep for u bud


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Sold. UD5 it is. Still a better price than that Sabortooth and will help me out for when I upgrade my CPU. +1 Rep for u bud


Thnx bro









Make sure it is the rev 1.1 tho.

I speak from my own experience because i had the UD3 before and its a great board but for 8350 and OC in my opinion is not the way to go because of its bad vrm heat sinks.

I am running now: FSB 257 RAM 2400, HT link 3084 and CPUNB at 2570 CPU 4.6 and it is pretty darn stable with good temps with my H100i, i was on 5ghz before but that produces too much heat for my H100i to dissipate.

Also like i said before if you OC your CPU to the max its more difficult to OC your HT link and CPUNB because of the large heat and you are at your maximal of what your CPU can have, so a bit lower CPU and bit higher HT and CPUNB is the way to go


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Thnx bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure it is the rev 1.1 tho.
> 
> I speak from my own experience because i had the UD3 before and its a great board but for 8350 and OC in my opinion is not the way to go because of its bad vrm heat sinks.
> 
> I am running now: FSB 257 RAM 2400, HT link 3084 and CPUNB at 2570 CPU 4.6 and it is pretty darn stable with good temps with my H100i, i was on 5ghz before but that produces too much heat for my H100i to dissipate.
> 
> Also like i said before if you OC your CPU to the max its more difficult to OC your HT link and CPUNB because of the large heat and you are at your maximal of what your CPU can have, so a bit lower CPU and bit higher HT and CPUNB is the way to go


Well the one they're showing at Newegg is a rev 1 but since they don't actually _say_ it's a rev1 so I don't know....maybe I'll send them an email and confirm.


I'm mostly concerned with being able to get the really great OC on my current CPU (from 3.2 to 4 is certainly very nice) because it will be at least 6 months (or more) before I upgrade my CPU. I didn't know the 8350's ran so hot like that (thanks again for the info) and that's pretty much why I'm taking your suggestion as it seems like it will go a longer way towards my next CPU than the UD3


----------



## AlwaysGood

Looking to change the all heatsinks on my UD5 rev 1.0, I don't like that the board gets hotter than my cpu. What heatsinks will work?


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Hey just a quick question, since I'm using an older CPU should I make sure the board has the latest bios on it? Currently there's an F11 and an F12a beta

Thanks


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Hey just a quick question, since I'm using an older CPU should I make sure the board has the latest bios on it? Currently there's an F11 and an F12a beta
> 
> Thanks


I had the F12 beta on my board and worked fine so you can install the latest bios but when u have trouble after the bios update go back to the older bios


----------



## BuZADAM

gigabyte has been release 990 fxa ud7 rev 3

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4658#


----------



## miklkit

Look at the size of those heat sinks! That board would work for me.
The last contact I had from Gigabyte about my warped UD3 was 10 days ago. I am still afraid to play the more demanding games because of throttling.


----------



## hurricane28

Make sure it is the rev 1.1 they are always the best, i had no problems with my Ud3 rev 1.1 and no with my UD5 rev 1.1 yet no problems at all


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> gigabyte has been release 990 fxa ud7 rev 3
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4658#


who wants to be the guiena pig? Not me lol

gigabyte sent me a rev 3.0 board for my rma. It still sits in the box....


----------



## OverclockerFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> who wants to be the guiena pig? Not me lol
> 
> gigabyte sent me a rev 3.0 board for my rma. It still sits in the box....


You don't want it? O_O

Send it to meeeeeeeeeeeee!









I really would like to have a revision 3 of this board. Partly because it won't run RAM at 1600 Mhz, and partly because GB haven't updated the BIOS on my Rev past F10. Do you think that might be enough of a reason that I could get an RMA for it? lol.

Also, I decided to try tinkering around with the BIOS settings again/ I did find something odd, which is that it seems that Windows Aero won't work with the HT link at 2400 Mhz


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> gigabyte has been release 990 fxa ud7 rev 3
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4658#


It's so pretty! Don't see any reason to trade my ud5 rev.3 for it though. And what's with all the rev.3.0 hate? Mine runs like a dream!


----------



## AlwaysGood

Whats the name of the mosfet heatsink and will it fit on a UD5? Also, did you need to mod anything for it to fit?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverclockerFox*
> 
> You don't want it? O_O
> 
> Send it to meeeeeeeeeeeee!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really would like to have a revision 3 of this board. Partly because it won't run RAM at 1600 Mhz, and partly because GB haven't updated the BIOS on my Rev past F10. Do you think that might be enough of a reason that I could get an RMA for it? lol.
> 
> Also, I decided to try tinkering around with the BIOS settings again/ I did find something odd, which is that it seems that Windows Aero won't work with the HT link at 2400 Mhz


i meant revision 3 of the ud3, not the ud7. Look at my sig i have the UD3. My lan went out on it, was rev 1.0 Giga sent me a Rev 3.0 replacement.

I will stay far far away from the Rev 3.0 ud7. I will let someone else be the pig on that one.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> It's so pretty! Don't see any reason to trade my ud5 rev.3 for it though. And what's with all the rev.3.0 hate? Mine runs like a dream!


Mine is trying to handle an FX8350 @ 4.52 ghz and failing. I posted a bunch of pics earlier in this thread, but this one sums it up best.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5900#post_20140695


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Aye that's just crazy man. I've never seen warping like that before.


----------



## xXTheGodfather

hey guys whats up? so i just got a new 990fxa for my amd fx 6300 and i decided to overclock it to 3.7 so i did i changed the blck freq. and multiplier
i did disable all the power saving function's but the voltage went up and down like crazy it went from 1250 to 1152 and even the speed went from 3.7 to 3.1 constantly so what should i do guys oh and this was while running prime 95.i have just changed the cpu core voltage to +.25 and everything else is auto!


----------



## xXTheGodfather

oh and i have a ud3 rev 3.0 the bios date is jan 22 2013


----------



## AlwaysGood

How do I reduce my temps on the mosfet and NB on a ud5? Can someone point me in a good direction?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlwaysGood*
> 
> How do I reduce my temps on the mosfet and NB on a ud5? Can someone point me in a good direction?


I highly recommend removing the heatsink and replacing the TIM on the NB and the thermal pad on the vrm heatsink. I used MX-2 for the NB and some of these for the vrm -> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16940/thr-171/Fujipoly_Extreme_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290


----------



## OverclockerFox

Been doing some testing with OCCT today, and OWCH, my pride.

Either the temps get insane, the system freezes, or I get an error.

Seems +.150 V or higher is the added voltage where temps get in the red zone.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> I highly recommend removing the heatsink and replacing the TIM on the NB and the thermal pad on the vrm heatsink. I used MX-2 for the NB and some of these for the vrm -> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16940/thr-171/Fujipoly_Extreme_Thermal_Pad_-_Mosfet_Block_-_100_x_15_x_10_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1290


I haven't pulled my NB Heatsink off yet. Did yours come off easily ?
It seemed like mine was on there pretty solid.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXTheGodfather*
> 
> hey guys whats up? so i just got a new 990fxa for my amd fx 6300 and i decided to overclock it to 3.7 so i did i changed the blck freq. and multiplier
> i did disable all the power saving function's but the voltage went up and down like crazy it went from 1250 to 1152 and even the speed went from 3.7 to 3.1 constantly so what should i do guys oh and this was while running prime 95.i have just changed the cpu core voltage to +.25 and everything else is auto!


The voltage will go up and down. It is designed that way. It sounds like it is throttling. What are your temps? Do not let it get hot or it will warp.


----------



## OverclockerFox

Does anyone have experience with the F11a BIOS for the UD7? I'm considering trying out the beta bios. Since this board has dualBIOS, it shouldn't be a problem if the beta copy lands on its' head, right? I've seen the board load a backup copy once before, if memory serves.


----------



## xXTheGodfather

hey guys what's up so i just wanted to ask you guys has gigabyte fixed the throttling issue yet? cuz when i overclock my cpu to 4.1 its goes to 3.2 and then back up while running prime 95!


----------



## xXTheGodfather

and guys where can i find apm master mode?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXTheGodfather*
> 
> and guys where can i find apm master mode?


http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXTheGodfather*
> 
> hey guys what's up so i just wanted to ask you guys has gigabyte fixed the throttling issue yet? cuz when i overclock my cpu to 4.1 its goes to 3.2 and then back up while running prime 95!


What are your temperatures? The throttling is caused by something overheating and is a safety feature to prevent the board from catching on fire.


----------



## xXTheGodfather

well core temp show;s it being less than 50 at all times


----------



## miklkit

Try OCCT. This is what throttling looks like on mine in OCCT. Note that it is temperature related and the cpu drops from 4520mhz to 1406 mhz and then jumps back up. If your temps never go over 50C thenit should not throttle.


----------



## hajnalka

Change EKWB thermal pad of water cooling block VRM to Phobya Thermal pad Ultra 5W/mk 1,5mm
Temp is low at 15C my max old thermal pad is 4.7Ghz stable 100% at 30minuts cca long time thortling
New thermal pad 4.9Ghz stable more to 1 hour 100% CPU usage water temp max 45C WRM max 80C laser thermometer


----------



## hajnalka

Memory run max 1500Mhz i use 4x4Gb Corsair Vengeance 1866Mhz Limatation 4bank use


----------



## Pedrozun

Hi guys !









any ideia how to disable APM in 990fxa-ud3 rev 3.0 ??









waiting for repply









see ya


----------



## FiatluX

According to this: http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf
it is disabled when you turn off Turbo!
Quote:


> Disable APM (Application Power Management) (disabl
> ing the AMD Turbo Core Technology via
> AMD OverDrive utility will also disable APM)


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> According to this: http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf
> it is disabled when you turn off Turbo!


ty for the repply

I did what I said in the pdf, but the clock of my fx still oscillating between 1400MHz and 3300mhz I already have disabled C1E, c6 c'n quiet but still so not know what else to do that ****.


----------



## xXTheGodfather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*
> 
> ty for the repply
> 
> I did what I said in the pdf, but the clock of my fx still oscillating between 1400MHz and 3300mhz I already have disabled C1E, c6 c'n quiet but still so not know what else to do that ****.


hi I had the same problem it actually went away by enabling the hpc mode or super computing mode something like that sorry can't remember the exact name


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXTheGodfather*
> 
> hi I had the same problem it actually went away by enabling the hpc mode or super computing mode something like that sorry can't remember the exact name


so .. my hpc mode current is disabled, i need to enable it?


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Change EKWB thermal pad of water cooling block VRM to Phobya Thermal pad Ultra 5W/mk 1,5mm
> Temp is low at 15C my max old thermal pad is 4.7Ghz stable 100% at 30minuts cca long time thortling
> New thermal pad 4.9Ghz stable more to 1 hour 100% CPU usage water temp max 45C WRM max 80C laser thermometer


I know I need to get a better CPU HSF. I measured the case and the Corsair H100I will fit but the fans would be mounted on top of the case. The Noctua U14 is too big, but the U12S will fit.
As it is now the motherboard and cooler are ok for everyday use, but not for stress testing.

I am using 16gb of G Skill ram @ 1600mhz with no problems.


----------



## xXTheGodfather

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*
> 
> so .. my hpc mode current is disabled, i need to enable it?


yes enable it


----------



## dmfree88

Just bought the UD5. Will be joining you all as soon as it gets here







. Anything I should know about setting it up when it gets here? I am pairing it with a FX-8350 and 8gb (2x4gb) gskill ripjaws ram.

I dont want to overclock more then like 4.5ghz. Just would like it to be stable, reliable and handle stress tests without BSOD (my previous msi 970a-g46 kept doing that at 4.3ghz)

Which settings in bios should be enabled or disabled? Should I just basically do the normal tuning guide suggestions from amd?

Anyone have experience with the 8350 and know the right way to go with the settings? I am still fairly new to overclocking/tinkering I can take any laptop/computer apart down to nuts and bolts and put it back together. But I have no idea what to do with voltage settings.

Any suggestions before I put it together greatly appreciated







Thanks


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Memory run max 1500Mhz i use 4x4Gb Corsair Vengeance 1866Mhz Limatation 4bank use


I am using corsair dominator gt (CMT8GX3M2A2000C9) 16 GB RAM ( 4X4GB ) @ 1600 MHZ @ 9-10-9-27 - 51 TIMINGS.. 1.65v. on my 990fxa ud7.

you cannot use 1866 mhz ram when 4 stick installed.

because

Only one DIMM per channel is supported for DDR3-1866MHz and higher speed as using an AM3+ CPU.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Just bought the UD5. Will be joining you all as soon as it gets here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Anything I should know about setting it up when it gets here? I am pairing it with a FX-8350 and 8gb (2x4gb) gskill ripjaws ram.
> 
> I dont want to overclock more then like 4.5ghz. Just would like it to be stable, reliable and handle stress tests without BSOD (my previous msi 970a-g46 kept doing that at 4.3ghz)
> 
> Which settings in bios should be enabled or disabled? Should I just basically do the normal tuning guide suggestions from amd?
> 
> Anyone have experience with the 8350 and know the right way to go with the settings? I am still fairly new to overclocking/tinkering I can take any laptop/computer apart down to nuts and bolts and put it back together. But I have no idea what to do with voltage settings.
> 
> Any suggestions before I put it together greatly appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I don't know how similar the bios of the UD5 is to the UD3, but I turned off all the power saving things and then just upped the vcore multiplier to 22.5 which gave it 4.52 ghz. Then bumped the voltage one click for stability and that is it.

Your main concern should be keeping that 8350 and motherboard cool. The thermal limit for that cpu is 62C. Scan this thread. All the info you need is here somewhere.


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXTheGodfather*
> 
> yes enable it


thanks i will try !


----------



## Pedrozun

The problem continues....
oscillating between 7x....


----------



## xXTheGodfather

what's date is ur bios?


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xXTheGodfather*
> 
> what's date is ur bios?


 look here


----------



## SuperClocks

If I were to get this board and overclock the bus, is there an option to keep it from overclocking the SB? Or a multiplier that would allow me to control the bus speed to the SB? I don't have any experience with these chipsets, and I don't want to fry my hard drives or motherboard components..

EDIT: Nevermind, someone just answered my question. The seperate bus speeds are controlled independently, just like the RAM on older motherboard...


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I don't know how similar the bios of the UD5 is to the UD3, but I turned off all the power saving things and then just upped the vcore multiplier to 22.5 which gave it 4.52 ghz. Then bumped the voltage one click for stability and that is it.
> 
> Your main concern should be keeping that 8350 and motherboard cool. The thermal limit for that cpu is 62C. Scan this thread. All the info you need is here somewhere.


Thanks Ill try to run through it a bit. Excited to get it up and going. You think my heatsink will have any problems? its cheap but highly recommended here. The mobo is going into build "my dream" in sig. Hyper 212 evo seemed to do fine in the crappy mobo that was in it at 4.3ghz. I bought another fan to put on intake blowing directly under the heatsink towards the mobo (keep system cooler i hope as well as better intake for cpu fan). Lots of fans in the case doing most the work for the cpu cooler aswell. You think I will have any issues?

Edit: Also Im an idiot when you say up the voltage by 1 click does that mean the nb voltage? I just want to get this right the first time xD

2nd edit: Also final and probably most important question. I dont know if its rev 1.x or rev 3.0 (I really think its 1.x) Does anyone know if I am going to have to find an old processor to update my bios before it will work? I noticed it had to be like version f10 to even work with my processor. Will it work out of the box atleast long enough to update?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedrozun*


Hard to figure out what could be wrong but your processor fans rpm is over 3500 rpm?? that seems abnormally high for a fan to even get to lol. You running stock fan? Maybe Im reading it wrong but that seems off the charts.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Gonna try the new bios for the ud5 rev 3 board now







-Fc-b (beta bios)


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Hard to figure out what could be wrong but your processor fans rpm is over 3500 rpm?? that seems abnormally high for a fan to even get to lol. You running stock fan? Maybe Im reading it wrong but that seems off the charts.


yep its the stock fan with full RPM


----------



## miklkit

dmfree88: I mean the CPU vcore voltage. In the UD3 it goes up in 0.025v increments.
I am using an Arctic A30. It is ok for everyday use but not stress testing and I'm planning on going to the Noctua NH U12S or 14S soon. The D14 will not fit in my case.







As new more demanding games come out the stress on the CPU will get stronger. I already have a game that stresses the CPU to the same levels as OCCT large date sets and Linpack.

Pedrozun: The stock fan on my 8350 spun at a very fast speed. It sounded similar to a mosquito so I bought a better heatsink pronto.


----------



## Pedrozun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> dmfree88: I mean the CPU vcore voltage. In the UD3 it goes up in 0.025v increments.
> I am using an Arctic A30. It is ok for everyday use but not stress testing and I'm planning on going to the Noctua NH U12S or 14S soon. The D14 will not fit in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As new more demanding games come out the stress on the CPU will get stronger. I already have a game that stresses the CPU to the same levels as OCCT large date sets and Linpack.
> 
> Pedrozun: The stock fan on my 8350 spun at a very fast speed. It sounded similar to a mosquito so I bought a better heatsink pronto.


i Already have a alternate cpu cooler, but im using the stock cause my case is opened for reforms.









my main problem is the clock multiplier oscillating, i really want to fix this u_U

this sucks the overclocks, i put processor in 4000mhz and they oscillate to 1400mhz...


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I don't know how similar the bios of the UD5 is to the UD3, but I turned off all the power saving things and then just upped the vcore multiplier to 22.5 which gave it 4.52 ghz. Then bumped the voltage one click for stability and that is it.
> 
> Your main concern should be keeping that 8350 and motherboard cool. The thermal limit for that cpu is 62C. Scan this thread. All the info you need is here somewhere.


Thermal limit is 90c, where the computer will then shut down automatically. People need to get this 62c non sense out of their head. What is true is any temperatures over 50c have a negative effect on stability when overclocking.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Thermal limit is 90c, where the computer will then shut down automatically. People need to get this 62c non sense out of their head. What is true is any temperatures over 50c have a negative effect on stability when overclocking.


As I understand it AMD says the safe limit is 62C and somewhere around 80C the CPU starts breaking down. That is my memory of posts on this thread. Experience says that if it gets anywhere close to 90C the UD3 motherboard is toast. Mine is currently throttling at 63C.
So just where does the CPU start to break down?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> dmfree88: I mean the CPU vcore voltage. In the UD3 it goes up in 0.025v increments.
> I am using an Arctic A30. It is ok for everyday use but not stress testing and I'm planning on going to the Noctua NH U12S or 14S soon. The D14 will not fit in my case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As new more demanding games come out the stress on the CPU will get stronger. I already have a game that stresses the CPU to the same levels as OCCT large date sets and Linpack.
> 
> Pedrozun: The stock fan on my 8350 spun at a very fast speed. It sounded similar to a mosquito so I bought a better heatsink pronto.


Yeah I wish the D14 would fit in my case. But its too big. I BARELY fit this hyper 212 evo. You dont think the 212 evo will be up to par? I certainly want to be able to stress test without issues. Id like it to be 100% stable

Edit: If anything you should wait for the new noctua to come out with noise cancellation. This thing is FREAKING SWEET:
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=rotosub_anc_project


----------



## AlwaysGood

Anyone with a ud5 rev 1.0 able to get their ram to run @ 1600mhz? Just got a single kingston hyperX 8gb stick and can't get it to run at 1600 every time I try to I get a error on the post screen.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> As I understand it AMD says the safe limit is 62C and somewhere around 80C the CPU starts breaking down. That is my memory of posts on this thread. Experience says that if it gets anywhere close to 90C the UD3 motherboard is toast. Mine is currently throttling at 63C.
> So just where does the CPU start to break down?


90c. is tjmax for the FX processors

I've been over 90c mutiple times when i had a antec 920 (pump wouldn't circulate the water sometimes had to lay case on its side to get it moving)

You are not throttling due to cpu temperature, you are throttling for some other reason, likely VRM temp.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> 90c. is tjmax for the FX processors
> 
> I've been over 90c mutiple times when i had a antec 920 (pump wouldn't circulate the water sometimes had to lay case on its side to get it moving)
> 
> You are not throttling due to cpu temperature, you are throttling for some other reason, likely VRM temp.


And what makes you think FX CPU's are good for 90c?

I mean mine throttles way before that, more like after 65c it becomes unstable.

So its not that farfetched that the max recommended temperature for FX is 62c.

But i gladly be wrong so explain plz how you come up with 90c?


----------



## miklkit

Yes, mine is throttling because of the warped, wounded, screwed up bios UD3 I'm stuck with.









I scanned this thread last night and there seems to be two camps.

Those who stay close to what AMD recommends (62C max) and those who say that since the silicon is good to 90-97C they can run hotter ok.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club

I set my redline at 65C.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yes, mine is throttling because of the warped, wounded, screwed up bios UD3 I'm stuck with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I scanned this thread last night and there seems to be two camps.
> 
> Those who stay close to what AMD recommends (62C max) and those who say that since the silicon is good to 90-97C they can run hotter ok.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club
> 
> I set my redline at 65C.


Well i can certainly say that 90c is not recommended at all of those chips, i do not know how they and where did they get their information but that is not correct at all.

Second i do not want to put anyone down but the thread starter on there builds computers for 12 years he told me.

Well i had an argument with some of the guys there and i told something about spreading TIM that its an horrible way of applying it because you get all air bubbles in the TIM and so horrible heat dissipation. But i was wrong about this and TIM spreading is highly recommended while he placed on the first page the same exact you tube link that i provided and i was not right









Even on setting up water cooling loops, he claims that its not necessary to use towels on your components and its okay to spill some on in because you can dry it up with paper towel -_- i mean really?!

That's is the most wrong information you can get when people come and ask about it.

So honestly i do not go by what most of them are saying because its simply wrong information


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Well i had an argument with some of the guys there and i told something about spreading TIM that its an horrible way of applying it because you get all air bubbles in the TIM and so horrible heat dissipation. But i was wrong about this and TIM spreading is highly recommended while he placed on the first page the same exact you tube link that i provided and i was not right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even on setting up water cooling loops, he claims that its not necessary to use towels on your components and its okay to spill some on in because you can dry it up with paper towel -_- i mean really?!


Spreading Tim can depend on what type of heatsink you have, If you have a direct contact (FLAT) heatsink. then it is more efficient and less likely to cause air bubbles if you place a small pea in the middle. If you have something that is not direct contact (has heat rails running through the heatsink surface and may be slightly uneven). Then you MUST spread as evenly as possible AND fill up the cracks on the heatsink side. 2 images below show the difference between the two:


^^As you can see the thermal paste is applied to the cracks first, I will even apply to top of cracks then swipe a credit card across to fill them, then apply paste normally, i feel this eliminates most possibilities of air bubbles on this type of heatsink


^^This type is flattened to perfectly smooth across (much more preferred), Sometimes the rails dont even come in direct contact with the processor and theres just a metal perfectly flat plate attached to the rails (less efficient). On any heatsink like this I apply about this much:


^^Should never need more then that and theres no reason that there should ever be an air bubble as it has no choice but to evenly push out towards the edge (must apply heatsink flat, angled may give you less or no thermal paste on one side)

Also as far as doing a water system, it is just water after all. If you get some down under your mobo your gonna have to wait a while so its dry before you start it. But you could probably get water anywhere on the mobo and not cause permanent damage (AS LONG AS YOU DRY IT OUT BEFORE YOU START IT). Ive dropped a phone in a puddle had it not work for 3 days and started back up finally after it dried out, I even tried to start my phone







. Electronics survive water more then youd think. So long as its WATER not some form of anti-freeze substance used to substain lower temperatures. I would still recommend the towel I mean why not? Safety first







. But I dont think plain water will cause much damage as long as you are completely dry before you start


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Spreading Tim can depend on what type of heatsink you have, If you have a direct contact (FLAT) heatsink. then it is more efficient and less likely to cause air bubbles if you place a small pea in the middle. If you have something that is not direct contact (has heat rails running through the heatsink surface and may be slightly uneven). Then you MUST spread as evenly as possible AND fill up the cracks on the heatsink side. 2 images below show the difference between the two:
> 
> 
> ^^As you can see the thermal paste is applied to the cracks first, I will even apply to top of cracks then swipe a credit card across to fill them, then apply paste normally, i feel this eliminates most possibilities of air bubbles on this type of heatsink
> 
> 
> ^^This type is flattened to perfectly smooth across (much more preferred), Sometimes the rails dont even come in direct contact with the processor and theres just a metal perfectly flat plate attached to the rails (less efficient). On any heatsink like this I apply about this much:
> 
> 
> ^^Should never need more then that and theres no reason that there should ever be an air bubble as it has no choice but to evenly push out towards the edge (must apply heatsink flat, angled may give you less or no thermal paste on one side)
> 
> Also as far as doing a water system, it is just water after all. If you get some down under your mobo your gonna have to wait a while so its dry before you start it. But you could probably get water anywhere on the mobo and not cause permanent damage (AS LONG AS YOU DRY IT OUT BEFORE YOU START IT). Ive dropped a phone in a puddle had it not work for 3 days and started back up finally after it dried out, I even tried to start my phone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Electronics survive water more then youd think. So long as its WATER not some form of anti-freeze substance used to substain lower temperatures. I would still recommend the towel I mean why not? Safety first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But I dont think plain water will cause much damage as long as you are completely dry before you start


Thnx for your reply









At the first picture, yes you should spread it like that but with that bad contact with the CPU i would not even bother with TIM because it will not give good performance at all and second there are not much heat sinks with that bad of contact.
But good point









Second is the most common one and is completely flat and that is my point because when the surface is flat there is no need to spread out the TIM and to be honest it is the worst thing you can do because its not even.

I use the pea method as well with very little TIM because it will spread evenly and TIM is only for contact and heat dissipation between the heat sink and the CPU, so more is less with TIM.

I see your point at the last one but you cannot handle preventive enough because it is electric stuff you are dealing with and yes i when its not powered on it can have some water and dry up but try that with an pump that is rated for 1000/1500 liter per hour, it is much better when you use towels on the GPU etc. its better to be save than sorry in my opinion


----------



## dmfree88

I am sorry i mis-read your first post i thought you were saying you were "for" spreading it around. My apologies. Yea I probably wouldn't risk it either. If you got a towel handy why get everything wet? Who doesnt have a towel? lol


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I am sorry i mis-read your first post i thought you were saying you were "for" spreading it around. My apologies. Yea I probably wouldn't risk it either. If you got a towel handy why get everything wet? Who doesnt have a towel? lol


That's okay man









Yeah that is my point, and for a guy that builds PC's for 12 years it is certainly not advised to give such information to people who are new to this because they think its okay to have leaks with no towels









And trust me if it leaks on a pump with 1000/1500L/PH you are not quick enough to shut down the pump because the water is all over the place so it is VERY advisable to have some towels on certain components and have some with you just in case.

Also he said that it is not advised to look at video's of people have years and years of experience on that to gain some information, so to me those are not the people who i can trust to get information with.


----------



## Mccaula718

If its distiller wAter it does no damage. It's not water that does damage, it's the minerals and Metal that are in it from going through pipes. With that being said, I don't know what liquid water coolers use.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mccaula718*
> 
> If its distiller wAter it does no damage. It's not water that does damage, it's the minerals and Metal that are in it from going through pipes. With that being said, I don't know what liquid water coolers use.


Yeah that pretty much was my concern. I dont have any clue whats inside a water cooler. I would assume something thats not water to actually keep cooler then water. Probably bad for your system


----------



## dmfree88

off subject question. I want to paint all the blue on the VRM red. What kind of paint would be safe to use on high temp metal for those vrm?


----------



## szeged

hey guys just installed a titan in my system(sig rig) and now my comp freezes after the bios/setup page. I updated bios using @bios hoping that would fix it but still no luck, anyone have any ideas?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> off subject question. I want to paint all the blue on the VRM red. What kind of paint would be safe to use on high temp metal for those vrm?


you don't paint electronics. paint acts as a insulator and could cause overheating. ESP in the case of the VRMS

Also like I said before max temp for FX processors is 90c. Max suggested temp is 90c. Don't believe me look at the tech doc

http://support.amd.com/us/Processor_TechDocs/42301_15h_Mod_00h-0Fh_BKDG.pdf


----------



## miklkit

I looked in that document and found one section that looked relevant, but it had no numbers and referenced a power and thermal data sheet that has the numbers, but I could not find the data sheet.









Note that I understand maybe 1% of that document.


----------



## szeged

Are there any compatibility issues with the 990fx ud3 and the gtx titan? Just installed a titan and comp freezes after bios/post screen.

Rev 1.1 using latest bios.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> Are there any compatibility issues with the 990fx ud3 and the gtx titan? Just installed a titan and comp freezes after bios/post screen.
> 
> Rev 1.1 using latest bios.


Not that I know of. You have the card installed in the first pci-e slot right?


----------



## szeged

yes i do. reseated it atleast 10 times already just to make sure if that was the problem. f10a bios version does support titan right?

i honestly cant think of what this problem could be, when i switched from nivida to amd gpus last year i didnt need to completely uninstall the nvidia drivers until after i had my card in. Could this maybe be the problem? should i try wiping the amd drivers completely and DL the nvidia ones then retry?


----------



## szeged

updated to nvidia 314.18 drivers, still the same problem, mobo posts, then freezes on a black screen.

i tried running the titan on a ssd with just windows 7 on it but no luck, should i maybe try reinstalling w7 on this hard drive and see if it goes any better?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> you don't paint electronics. paint acts as a insulator and could cause overheating. ESP in the case of the VRMS
> 
> Also like I said before max temp for FX processors is 90c. Max suggested temp is 90c. Don't believe me look at the tech doc
> 
> http://support.amd.com/us/Processor_TechDocs/42301_15h_Mod_00h-0Fh_BKDG.pdf


I understand paint would be an insulator. but it was painted already. Otherwise it wouldnt be blue. what kind of paint did they use? It shouldn't hold the heat anymore then the paint thats already on it. Also its not completely blue so it would only be a couple lines. There should be a safe paint that works the same as the paint on it??

Also about your temperature thing. AMD does RECOMMEND that all amd cpus be kept under 62 degrees to have a long life span. Anything over 62 will degrade the life-span of the CPU. The threshold for the cpu before it starts to break down and fail is 90. I am sure you have seen above this before and it may even go as high as 100+ but based on AMD, 62 is safe for long life, 90 is safe for one time omg what just happened.. Anything higher you may be buying a new bulldozer. As you can see here AMD refuses to list specs as they want no responsibility for the possibility of overheating or failure thats there fault:

http://products.amd.com/pages/desktopcpudetail.aspx?id=809&f1=&f2=&f3=&f4=&f5=&f6=&f7=&f8=&f9=&f10=&f11=&f12=&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

Max temp is blank. They dont want to risk something not working within spec. So they dont list max temps and just tell us "safe zone". I would imagine it can easily go over 62 without exploding. But dependant on your MOBO it may throttle before you even get to 70 degrees.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

I would check the bios on the titan wwith kepler bios tweaker!


----------



## szeged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> I would check the bios on the titan wwith kepler bios tweaker!


Cantcheck anything on the titan because my comp freezes after bios post.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I understand paint would be an insulator. but it was painted already. Otherwise it wouldnt be blue. what kind of paint did they use? It shouldn't hold the heat anymore then the paint thats already on it. Also its not completely blue so it would only be a couple lines. There should be a safe paint that works the same as the paint on it??
> 
> Also about your temperature thing. AMD does RECOMMEND that all amd cpus be kept under 62 degrees to have a long life span. Anything over 62 will degrade the life-span of the CPU. The threshold for the cpu before it starts to break down and fail is 90. I am sure you have seen above this before and it may even go as high as 100+ but based on AMD, 62 is safe for long life, 90 is safe for one time omg what just happened.. Anything higher you may be buying a new bulldozer. As you can see here AMD refuses to list specs as they want no responsibility for the possibility of overheating or failure thats there fault:
> 
> http://products.amd.com/pages/desktopcpudetail.aspx?id=809&f1=&f2=&f3=&f4=&f5=&f6=&f7=&f8=&f9=&f10=&f11=&f12=&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
> 
> Max temp is blank. They dont want to risk something not working within spec. So they dont list max temps and just tell us "safe zone". I would imagine it can easily go over 62 without exploding. But dependant on your MOBO it may throttle before you even get to 70 degrees.


The cpu will never go above 90c, in a working system. If it reaches 90c your computer goes into thermal shut down. And No 62c is not related to FX processors AT all. Heck look at all their mobile parts they commonly run 60+c with a TJMAX of 115c. They can take a beating Your cpu will throttle before 90c, usually happens around 80c, as shown in tech document the cpu will throttle to try and prevent getting to 90c, at least on the desktop parts. The mobile parts will run at 90c all day long under load. All this information is available in the document I posted, granted you actually have to understand the lingo to make much sense of it.

Also on the Titan issue, have you tried to install the card in another system? you may have a bad card. If you cannot get past the bios post, then I would point my fingers at the card. If it tries to load windows and cannot get to the desktop, then you might have a driver issue.


----------



## szeged

No the only other system in my house atm is garbage but I might try it, been trying to avoid uninstalling the waterblocks for it.


----------



## istudy92

I have an FX4300 have it overclocked to 4.7 and it is stable on prime 95 on this mebo. My question is basically my multiplier fluxuates on cpuz. I have read in forums apart from here that fx990 does not have an APM option which causes this change in multiplier.

Is this true or can something be done? And yes I did disable turbo and power saving etc etc.


----------



## hurricane28

For benching its okay to hit over 65c heck i even had it once at 72c but its not recommended.

Everyone knows that the threshold of Amd CPU's are lower than Intel CPU's but also it depends on the CPU really because i did fry my CPU once when it reached over 75c so its highly recommended to stay under 65c.

Also why would you go above 64c? i mean in my experience the FX chips do not like high temps at all and performs best when its way below 70c.


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I understand paint would be an insulator. but it was painted already. Otherwise it wouldnt be blue. what kind of paint did they use? It shouldn't hold the heat anymore then the paint thats already on it. Also its not completely blue so it would only be a couple lines. There should be a safe paint that works the same as the paint on it??
> 
> Also about your temperature thing. AMD does RECOMMEND that all amd cpus be kept under 62 degrees to have a long life span. Anything over 62 will degrade the life-span of the CPU. The threshold for the cpu before it starts to break down and fail is 90. I am sure you have seen above this before and it may even go as high as 100+ but based on AMD, 62 is safe for long life, 90 is safe for one time omg what just happened.. Anything higher you may be buying a new bulldozer. As you can see here AMD refuses to list specs as they want no responsibility for the possibility of overheating or failure thats there fault:
> 
> http://products.amd.com/pages/desktopcpudetail.aspx?id=809&f1=&f2=&f3=&f4=&f5=&f6=&f7=&f8=&f9=&f10=&f11=&f12=&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1
> 
> Max temp is blank. They dont want to risk something not working within spec. So they dont list max temps and just tell us "safe zone". I would imagine it can easily go over 62 without exploding. But dependant on your MOBO it may throttle before you even get to 70 degrees.


heatsinks arent painted, there never painted. a heatsink is anodized.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> heatsinks arent painted, there never painted. a heatsink is anodized.


Yea suppose that makes sense. Wondered how they colored the heatsink metal. wish I could re-dye it or something. Doubt thats worth the cost/effort. Thanks for the info though


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> For benching its okay to hit over 65c heck i even had it once at 72c but its not recommended.
> 
> Everyone knows that the threshold of Amd CPU's are lower than Intel CPU's but also it depends on the CPU really because i did fry my CPU once when it reached over 75c so its highly recommended to stay under 65c.
> 
> Also why would you go above 64c? i mean in my experience the FX chips do not like high temps at all and performs best when its way below 70c.


The performance doesn't change because of the temperature, unless throttling is involved.

I already posted the link to the AMD's Tech document about the FX processor. Stop spewing nonsense...., this information is backed by AMD, the maker of the chip.

I think what your trying to say is to get the best overclock out of your chip its best to keep it cooler, but from a degradation or usability issues below 90c is a non factor.

My old 8120 hit 90c multiple times during its life, before I sold it and it was working just fine. This happened multiple times, like a few times a week. (stupid Antec 920 had a air bubble or something in it so when I turned my pc on the liquid wouldn't circulate until I laid the case on its side) I experienced no ill effects of this, and cpu ran happy at 5ghz its entire time I owned it. I owned it since release date till like 2 months ago, when i swapped it out for a 8320.
Quote:


> heatsinks arent painted, there never painted. a heatsink is anodized.


quoted for the truth


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Yea suppose that makes sense. Wondered how they colored the heatsink metal. wish I could re-dye it or something. Doubt thats worth the cost/effort. Thanks for the info though


that is how they colour it you can anodize aluminum in any colour of the rainbow.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> that is how they colour it you can anodize aluminum in any colour of the rainbow.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing


lol right when he posted that i went there before i posted the reply. Looks expensive







especially for a tiny peice of metal. Not worth the effort I will shine a red light on it noone will know the difference lol


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk16*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Yea suppose that makes sense. Wondered how they colored the heatsink metal. wish I could re-dye it or something. Doubt thats worth the cost/effort. Thanks for the info though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that is how they colour it you can anodize aluminum in any colour of the rainbow.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing
Click to expand...

many of the high end Motherboards today are covered in a ceramic compound. in the case of ASUS it's called CeraM!X . My UD7's heatsinks are also covered in a version of it.


----------



## hurricane28

So you say that its okay to hit much more than 65c with this chip? because everywhere i looked they said that 62c is the max temp for these chips.

To be honest i found it kinda strange that Intel CPU's could hit max 100c and Amd only 62c before it begins to degrade.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> So you say that its okay to hit much more than 65c with this chip? because everywhere i looked they said that 62c is the max temp for these chips.
> 
> To be honest i found it kinda strange that Intel CPU's could hit max 100c and Amd only 62c before it begins to degrade.


pretty sure 62 is just the optimal max temp. not the actual max temp. If it never goes above 62 it will supposedly live its entire life expectancy. If you were sitting at 62+ regularly it will not last as long as it would if you stay below it (supposedly). Its not meltdown temp its just "not good" for it


----------



## hurricane28

That is what i thought too so i keep it nice under 62c to make sure nothing happens









After 65c my CPU is not stable and i can see that in my benchmark scores so i keep it under 62c


----------



## szeged

can anyone confirm if the ga-990fx-ud3 rev 1.1 is compatable with a gtx titan? ive tried 3 different bios versions and it still freezes at POST. using a 9800gt to boot, titan shows up on all gpu monitoring and shows that its active and working, but still when i boot with it as the primary card it freezes every time.


----------



## mk16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> can anyone confirm if the ga-990fx-ud3 rev 1.1 is compatable with a gtx titan? ive tried 3 different bios versions and it still freezes at POST. using a 9800gt to boot, titan shows up on all gpu monitoring and shows that its active and working, but still when i boot with it as the primary card it freezes every time.


there should be no problem with the software compatibility. If the card wont work it is one of the following
broken card
broken pcie
broken os/nvidia software


----------



## szeged

ive used both pcie lanes with the 9800 and it worked on both, i reinstalled win7 and nvidia drivers with a clean install, and almost every gpu detection software is showing the titan as working.


----------



## miklkit

I have a similar problem with X2 AMD 6970s. For some reason the ASUS one will only work in the bottom slot while the MSI one will work in either slot. No idea why it is so, but there it is. Considering all the problems I am having with the UD3 I blame it for this situation. It also has trouble recognizing hard drives and cooling fans.


----------



## szeged

yeah im thinking im probably gonna have to get a new mobo, was looking at the crosshair v formula z but was also considering going haswell also.


----------



## rawsteel

Cant seem to enable ipv4 checksum offload in the Realtek network settings on my ud5.. tried updating the driver but still no luck, When i change the ipv4 checksum to Tx & Rx it just defaults back to disabled. Does anyone else have it enabled.? does the Realtek 8111E chip support it

update

fixed. The changes were being blocked by comodo internet security firewall driver..
lol *** pice of junk comodo


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Anyone else running the ud5 rev3.0 here? And have trouble with bios settings and stuff? Just the rev 3.0!


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah im thinking im probably gonna have to get a new mobo, was looking at the crosshair v formula z but was also considering going haswell also.


This may be a long shot but have you tried boosting the PCIe clock?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *szeged*
> 
> yeah im thinking im probably gonna have to get a new mobo, was looking at the crosshair v formula z but was also considering going haswell also.


one last thing you can try.

Go into the bios press ctrl F1. Go to advanced chipset options, you should see a option for PCi-E. There are several options available, what is yours set to?

Use option A, if its not currently set there. For a Single card.

Should be like A 4:2:0:0 or something like that


----------



## xXTheGodfather

hey guys so im having this cold boot problem on my 990fxa-ud3 i have my cpu overclocked to 4.4ghz (the temps are always under 50) k so whenever i come in the morning and press the power button the led's and fans turn on for 1 sec and then turn off but then i press the button once more and everything start's normal so is there a fix for this? or i just have to deal with this!


----------



## FiatluX

I had that too, it went away after I set the cpu-fan to pwm, ram to profile1 and the other ram settings to auto! I still have the multiplier on manual so..

Can´t tell you exactly why but it seems that fiddling with the ram timings makes it do so a.f.a.i.k.


----------



## itomic

I saw new BIOS for UD-5 Rev 3.0. Did anyone get it, and whats improved and new ??


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> I saw new BIOS for UD-5 Rev 3.0. Did anyone get it, and whats improved and new ??


I'm happy to report that it has improved performance for me with some memory that I was previously having problems with. It also adds an APM option to the bios. I am still hoping that things like realtime reporting of cpu/nb and htt speeds will be added as well as more clearly defined cpu/nb voltage. There is still alot of room for improvement with Gigabyte and their UEFI dual bios.


----------



## itomic

Did u saw any improvement regarding overclocking ?


----------



## Hellsrage

Still no new BIOS for UD3 Rev 3.0, well damn.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> I'm happy to report that it has improved performance for me with some memory that I was previously having problems with. It also adds an APM option to the bios. I am still hoping that things like realtime reporting of cpu/nb and htt speeds will be added as well as more clearly defined cpu/nb voltage. There is still alot of room for improvement with Gigabyte and their UEFI dual bios.


But the apm optioon is useless for us overclockers...right? Anyone haviong the ud5 rev 3.0 board pls PM me if u have overclocked it i need help with settings and stuff.


----------



## miklkit

New problem.









It seems I have lost 20-30 fps in all of my games. No idea why as I have made no changes at all in over 2 weeks. All temperatures are ok and if anything are lower than before. Usage is also less than before.
By that I mean that in my most demanding game the GPUs (AMD 6970 X2) used to run at 90-99% and get hot (90-95C). Now in the same game with the same settings they run at 80% with temps in the low 80C range.
The CPU is also running cooler. It used to run at 54-55C and now runs at 49C. This is in spite of higher ambient temperatures as there is a heat wave here now.
Could the UD3 motherboard be throttling everything?


----------



## itomic

I didnt hier that MBO can slow down GPU-s !


----------



## miklkit

Maybe I'm just being paranoid because of all the other things going wrong like reading fans, hard drives, and who knows what else wrong.









It is doing better in the one game I've played today.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> I didnt hier that MBO can slow down GPU-s !


Couldn't that be caused by the PCIe slot? Which is a part of the motherboard.


----------



## munjakos

Guys i need some help. I have GA-990FXA UD5 and this is the problem. When i connect my 5.1 speakers to the motherboard i get sound from all speakers, but no sound from subwoofer.







I need to swap Center / LFE, but i don't have that option in Realtek HD Audio Manager.







Is there any solution to this problem? I appreciate any help you can provide.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Still no new BIOS for UD3 Rev 3.0, well damn.


Well this doesn't surprise me lol. It's only 3 months overdue. Sorry I haven't been on lately. On vacation so I've been going and going and going.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> New problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems I have lost 20-30 fps in all of my games. No idea why as I have made no changes at all in over 2 weeks. All temperatures are ok and if anything are lower than before. Usage is also less than before.
> By that I mean that in my most demanding game the GPUs (AMD 6970 X2) used to run at 90-99% and get hot (90-95C). Now in the same game with the same settings they run at 80% with temps in the low 80C range.
> The CPU is also running cooler. It used to run at 54-55C and now runs at 49C. This is in spite of higher ambient temperatures as there is a heat wave here now.
> Could the UD3 motherboard be throttling everything?


Update any drivers by chance?


----------



## miklkit

munjakos: I'm no help as I have dedicated sound card. Realtek is not good enough for me.

Ozzy: I have been in a holding pattern for 3 weeks now and have done nothing. There was a problem with Java last week that seems to be ok now after a reinstall. It could be something got corrupted.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

It's possible a bad update happened. Most corruption comes from unstable memory but you would also get bsods and freezing from that.


----------



## madorax

helo guys. i just replaced my M5A97 board with UD5 rev. 3 this day, what clock can i achieve stable with this board usually?

and maybe any guide for BIOS OC setting?


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

4.6-4.8ghz for daily use with decent cooling. This is my current oc for today, im working on getting my vcore lower now:

http://valid.canardpc.com/2850914


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> 4.6-4.8ghz for daily use with decent cooling. This is my current oc for today, im working on getting my vcore lower now:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2850914


Good job









what are your temps under load? and what cooler do you use?


----------



## hajnalka

My 990fxa-ud3 watercool

http://valid.canardpc.com/2851114

Bus speed 220Mhz max stable 24Hour 240Mhz test OCCT error 5Ghz only test not stable 24Hour
1Dimm per channel run more at 1600Mhz
I use all dim memory my stable is 1466Mhz


----------



## madorax

Guys... just want to confirm. this is my new UD5 Rev. 3.



PACKAGE = CPU Temp (MAX 62c) Right?

TMPIN0 = ? --> Socket Temp (MAX 70c) is this it ?
TMPIN1 = ?
TMPIN2 = ?

Sorry, the sensor is different from Asus Board that I use before this so got a little confuse here.

and maybe a tip for daily OC setting?

Currently i'm brute force OC only multi to 4.5 with increment +0.50 on both Vcore & NB and LLC to Ultra High. All feature set to Disabled.

==========================================



and how come my temp become so low? usually socket temp is higher than CPU temp... but this? 

and 1 more, how to set the seidon PWM to work normal? i set sysfan1 to PWM on bios (tha'ts where i put the fan) and choose normal... but when i test with prime, the fan won't go up according to the temp...

and here's my OCCT result @ 4.5... it pass... but with weird result...


Spoiler: pic






















====================================================================

UPDATE!!!!

SOLVED! so it's only the OCCT and HW Monitor that mis read my volt. Easytune6 & Aida64 read correctly.

try running with higher clock right now... post the result later


----------



## itomic

TMPIN - 0 is MBO temp
TMPIN - 1 they say its NB temp, other say its socket temp
TMPIN - 2 package or cores temp


----------



## dmfree88

am I having issues? I cant decide. I thought my cooler just sucked but from what I understand everyone elses works good. So why am I only able to push 4.3ghz? at 4.4ghz my temps go up and keep going up. at 4.3 i hit 57 degrees and never go up or down (58 being my max setting for fan at 100%). I can barely keep it stable at these settings. I have disabled all power saver/ cool n quiet etc. Switched voltage settings to manual and added +0.025 to cpu voltage. then all I did was change the multiplier to 21.5 (and 22 for 4.4ghz). Using the 21.5 at 3.3ghz I get some fluctuating cpu vcore voltages that I am not sure about:



I dont know if its bad or good? I dont know alot about overclocking but I know I should be getting better temps then this. Any suggestions?


----------



## madorax

man this thread become incredibly quiet... where are the member go? ^^

anyway forget my post earlier... i've been through this thread since page 1 last night.... lot's of story though ^^

right now run my 8320 @ 4.5 with +50 on vcore. +25 on NB. LLC Very High.



will try to tighten my timing right now...


----------



## miklkit

My 8350 on a UD3 has been running at 4.52 ghz for months and has tested stable. I turned off all of the power saving things in the bios, set the vcore multiplier to 22.5, and bumped the voltage up +0.025v. That is all.
I just ran OCCT on medium data set to show how it runs on this wounded and dying UD3. Note the fan speeds. The first two are PWM fans.







It used to run around 55C steady and this time it ran cooler with just one big spike.



I got a response from Gigabyte! They are RMAing this UD3 so I ordered an MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2 yesterday. Dunno what I will do with the next UD3. It seems to be ok with a 4350 so maybe I'll build up something with that as its base.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I got a response from Gigabyte! They are RMAing this UD3 so I ordered an MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2 yesterday. Dunno what I will do with the next UD3. It seems to be ok with a 4350 so maybe I'll build up something with that as its base.


I hope your happy with the MSI. I was super un-happy with the msi 970a-g46 i ordered. the one you got is a much better version so hopefully it works out well. This UD5 I got to replace mine is 10x more durable feels better in your hands not as flimsy. Just pulling it out of the box I knew it was better. Msi has alot of cool features but if I can get this ud5 to work right I know it will last longer and work better.

MSI rma service was fairly quick they just sent back my 970a-g46 but they are very un-informative I have no idea what or if they did anything to it. Or if someone even read the letter I sent with it. Anyways Ill know more when it gets back (its in the mail right now) and I build another PC for my friend with it. But I am not very impressed with msi at all







Hope you have better luck


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Alright well, I've finally have enough money to change motherboards (I have a UD3-Rev 3.0).

Between the Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 and the Gigabyte 990FXa-UD5, which motherboard would be better for overclocking? Gigabyte has left a pretty sour taste in my mouth after spending over half a year on tech support with them but, I love the look of their motherboards (Don't judge me







).

I plan on selling this UD3 on craigslist to atleast make most of my money back >_<.


----------



## itomic

U cant go wrong whatever u chose. Sabretooth has more featurse then mine, but UD-5 is fantastic board to.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> U cant go wrong whatever u chose. Sabretooth has more featurse then mine, but UD-5 is fantastic board to.


How is that UD5 treating you? Does the rev 3.0 version have the same issues as the UD3 rev3.0 version?


----------



## miklkit

The MSI G46 does have a bad reputation. In fact all of them except for these newer ones do.
Due to needing a certain layout so all my hardware fits it came down to the UD5 or the GD80. Since my problems with the UD3 were all related to a bad bios and insufficient heat sinks, that is what I looked at the most. The GD80 has the biggest heat sinks around and they are mounted better. Only the better ASUS boards can match it there.
Then I have read here about some people having trouble getting their UD5s to work right. So I went MSI this time. I hope it has a good bios.

The Gigabyte RMA process has been pretty long so far and I think they wanted to back out at one point. But on the other hand they did initiate it after my review of the UD3 on Newegg.


----------



## itomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> How is that UD5 treating you? Does the rev 3.0 version have the same issues as the UD3 rev3.0 version?


No, UD-5 does not have problem like UD-3. No throttling whatever voltage i trow it. Only one thing i dont like and thats realy poor UEFI BIOS. Everything else is superb.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> No, UD-5 does not have problem like UD-3. No throttling whatever voltage i trow it. Only one thing i dont like and thats realy poor UEFI BIOS. Everything else is superb.


Same with my board. Great hardware, bad UEFI.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah MSI has a NICE bios, even the crappy board I had came with a click bios that was fun/easy to use.. Just not so sure about quality of the mobo itself. Was not impressed with the one I got. but you might be good with the model you went with who knows. they seem to RMA fast at MSI so atleast worst come to worse should get a working board eventually haha.. good luck though hope it works well for ya!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I'm still on vacation about a thousand miles away from home so I'm not much help at the moment. I'll be back on the forums pretty regularly around Monday.


----------



## madorax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'm still on vacation about a thousand miles away from home so I'm not much help at the moment. I'll be back on the forums pretty regularly around Monday.


Hello there Ozz... i've been read all about your effort in the many back page... respect to you ^^
hopefully i can be a regular in this thread from now on, and maybe can share some info with the others ^^

right now i'm success @ 4.6. problem is in temp. will trying to change the paste, i'm still using the default paste from seidon. trying to replace it with better paste and trying to go higher, right now i'm happy with this ^^


----------



## dmfree88

if i could even stabalize at 4.3ghz id be happy







. Cant figure out what I am doing wrong







. finally got my core clock to stay steady.. all voltages seem good.. except vcore still having issues.. i dunno what to do guys any suggestions?


----------



## By-Tor

Just noticed the UD7 available now on Newegg.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128508


----------



## madorax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> if i could even stabalize at 4.3ghz id be happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Cant figure out what I am doing wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . finally got my core clock to stay steady.. all voltages seem good.. except vcore still having issues.. i dunno what to do guys any suggestions?


hmm... what is your setting at bios? try disabled all cpu feature. and try multi first. set the RAM to 1600. (9.9.9.24) default. set +0.025 on vcore and +0.025 on cpu/nb. and put LLC to HIGH. try 4.3 first. should be stable by that setting, and that small amount of oc.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> if i could even stabalize at 4.3ghz id be happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Cant figure out what I am doing wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . finally got my core clock to stay steady.. all voltages seem good.. except vcore still having issues.. i dunno what to do guys any suggestions?


Do what madorax said but lower the ram to even 1333mhz instead! Also wich rev do u got on your mobo? I got the same mobo as you and i have rev 3.0. Maybe i can look in bios and take some pictures and show here wich settings i use? Also wich bios version do u got i got the "Fcb".


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> if i could even stabalize at 4.3ghz id be happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Cant figure out what I am doing wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . finally got my core clock to stay steady.. all voltages seem good.. except vcore still having issues.. i dunno what to do guys any suggestions?


I finally found the chart you are using and mine looks like that too. I suspect that is just the bios reacting to changing loads.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Thnx bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure it is the rev 1.1 tho.
> 
> I speak from my own experience because i had the UD3 before and its a great board but for 8350 and OC in my opinion is not the way to go because of its bad vrm heat sinks.
> 
> I am running now: FSB 257 RAM 2400, HT link 3084 and CPUNB at 2570 CPU 4.6 and it is pretty darn stable with good temps with my H100i, i was on 5ghz before but that produces too much heat for my H100i to dissipate.
> 
> Also like i said before if you OC your CPU to the max its more difficult to OC your HT link and CPUNB because of the large heat and you are at your maximal of what your CPU can have, so a bit lower CPU and bit higher HT and CPUNB is the way to go


Well I received delivery last week and despite the pic on Newegg showing a rev 1.0 I received a 3.0. After all the horrors I read about the bios and overclocking issues I sent it back to Newegg (they rock) and tried to get them to send me a UD5 rev 1.1 but they said there was no possible way they can guarantee what rev I would be getting. I even called Gigabyte and they pretty much confirmed they're only shipping the latest version to retailers (at least thats what the tech told me) and so I ended up ordering an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0. I was really looking forward to the UD5 as the Sabertooth ended up costing me an additional 30 bux


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Well I received delivery last week and despite the pic on Newegg showing a rev 1.0 I received a 3.0. After all the horrors I read about the bios and overclocking issues I sent it back to Newegg (they rock) and tried to get them to send me a UD5 rev 1.1 but they said there was no possible way they can guarantee what rev I would be getting. I even called Gigabyte and they pretty much confirmed they're only shipping the latest version to retailers (at least thats what the tech told me) and so I ended up ordering an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0. I was really looking forward to the UD5 as the Sabertooth ended up costing me an additional 30 bux


My 2 cents is that u did the right choice and choose the saber! The ud5 is a stable and good board but the bios atm is ****! You cant change the Nb volt for example, but it is a beta bios so i cross my fingers that i will have the option to change the nb volt in the final release of the bios


----------



## hurricane28

That sucks indeed man, i had the same problem i was on a point to order the UD5 but i was reading a review and it says that it was rev 3.0 and i decided not to buy that one.

So i ordered from another retailer and they said it was rev 1.1 so i guess i was lucky.

The Asus is good choice too man, but i find it really ugly LOL sorry i do not bash on your product man but that is one reason i went for the UD5 because it is such a nice board to look at and it performs just as well as the saber









Good luck man let us know what you get with that board


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Hurricane: I see you got a better cooler then me, may i ask whats your current oc at?


----------



## hurricane28

I am now at 4.626 because of the heat but i can get 5ghz with this one.

BUT this cooler will only separate itself in push/pull configuration witht he standard fans that are included with it.

At least i could not find any better fans for this rad because its very dense so it need very high static pressure fans for it to perform any better than high air cooling.

Also note that what anyone else gets with their cooler or OC etc. etc. will be no guarantee that you should get the same so keep that in mind


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> That sucks indeed man, i had the same problem i was on a point to order the UD5 but i was reading a review and it says that it was rev 3.0 and i decided not to buy that one.
> 
> So i ordered from another retailer and they said it was rev 1.1 so i guess i was lucky.
> 
> The Asus is good choice too man, but i find it really ugly LOL sorry i do not bash on your product man but that is one reason i went for the UD5 because it is such a nice board to look at and it performs just as well as the saber
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck man let us know what you get with that board


Well luckily my case is closed and I don't see the board (just kidding, I couldn't care less about how it looks







) but in all honesty never in my life has appearance had anything to do with a motherboard purchase (at least not for me) that's almost like not picking a car because I don't like the color of the undercarriage lolololol

Either way I've heard from many the Sabertooth is a pretty highly regarded board with no controversy (unlike like the UD5 3.0) so hopefully this will work out well









P.S. The black and red of the ASUS Crosshair V is rather sexy....just not $240 worth.... lol


----------



## hurricane28

Ye i hear ya man









Well i want the best performance for the price range and this board gives me both of 2 worlds, it looks great and performs great too









Aesthetics are for me important factor to purchase products as well and that is one reason i went with my G.Skill ripjawsX because they match the blue color theme i have for my pc and also they perform outstanding as well









I thing you have done a great job to purchase the saber instead of the UD5 rev. 3.0 and i think it will serve you well, the saber and the UD5 are well matched to each other.

let me know what you get with that board


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I am now at 4.626 because of the heat but i can get 5ghz with this one.
> 
> BUT this cooler will only separate itself in push/pull configuration witht he standard fans that are included with it.
> 
> At least i could not find any better fans for this rad because its very dense so it need very high static pressure fans for it to perform any better than high air cooling.
> 
> Also note that what anyone else gets with their cooler or OC etc. etc. will be no guarantee that you should get the same so keep that in mind


I ran into the wall when i got to 4.9 stable and the wall was a big raise of the vcore from 1.47 wich i run my 4.8ghz clock with to over 1.5 vcore for 4.9ghz and when trying to reach 5ghz stable i was at 1.6max unsucessfull then decided to stop. I remember when i was at 4.6ghz it ran really cool and a really nice low vcore. So where do u hit the wall?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> I ran into the wall when i got to 4.9 stable and the wall was a big raise of the vcore from 1.47 wich i run my 4.8ghz clock with to over 1.5 vcore for 4.9ghz and when trying to reach 5ghz stable i was at 1.6max unsucessfull then decided to stop. I remember when i was at 4.6ghz it ran really cool and a really nice low vcore. So where do u hit the wall?


Well i am not at 4646mhz and it runs very smooth and fast and cool, the max i can get stable is like 5011mhz with 1.6 volts.

The max i benched was 5278 over 1.6 but i do not remember the max exactly sorry. But its only for benching and i do not believe there are some who can almost 5.3ghz stable for 24/7 and if they do it will not last any long anyway.

Also the board and the PSU can be a factor for overclocking as well. there are so many factors that determine a high overclock.

There are also so many settings you an try and try, heck i needed couple of weeks to understand any of this lol and i changed my board as well.

What i did was set the RAm profile to 2400 and set the timings and voltage to the standard 2400 G.Skill RAM and prestoo it worked









So the best thing is to put so much time in it as you can and try different things like setting voltages multipliers etc etc and adventurously you see it can do more than you think


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Do what madorax said but lower the ram to even 1333mhz instead! Also wich rev do u got on your mobo? I got the same mobo as you and i have rev 3.0. Maybe i can look in bios and take some pictures and show here wich settings i use? Also wich bios version do u got i got the "Fcb".


going to attempt what he said. My settings were all similar to what he mentioned anyways. My rev is 1.x with bios version f10. I got lucky and bought it from someone who got it from newegg in may. So its not the rev 3.0 and its already at the newest bios. Hopefully it works well. I will try the settings mentioned above and repost in a few.


----------



## dmfree88

not 100 percent sure what happened but 14 seconds into first occt test it failed due to error. then i started it again and it worked fine. It seems like its holding temperature better now i may even try to up the multiplier some more. never got over 51 degrees stays around 47-48 through-out the test. But it had a strange drop in voltage and seemed to stay dropped. I dont know what to think about it or what it was supposed to be at but check it out:



Also I am not sure which temperature is which but do all these temps seem within safe perameters? looked like one of the temp gauges from the gigabyte board (im assuming nb or sb) was getting up to about 60 degrees. not sure what the safe zone is but a little help knowing which is which and whats safe would be appreciated:



Last question. Is Vin5 supposed to fluctuate constantly? It seems to be the only one with issues and I dont know what it is but you can see the min and max in the above hwmonitor picture, heres the occt result:



If all these are normal I will be a happy man. If not please let me know so I can do what I can to try to fix it.


----------



## dmfree88

The Problem persists. I managed to get it up to 4.5ghz safely but the vcore voltage is still having issues. Now the occt test stops due to error in core #1, what does that mean? how do I know whats wrong or how to fix it?



still vin5 freaking out i dont know what vin5 is:



Also it was set to idle for first minute the temperature seems to be kinda weird during idle, No programs/antivirus or anything running:



I have no idea what to do, seems stable otherwise but I have been having alot of decrypt errors while im doing my job on VPN through internet explorer. I wanna make sure this isnt related aswell. Any suggestions? Do I maybe have a bad cpu?

Edit heres after 16 minutes at 4.2ghz.. i think i might try replacing the tim.. may have set wrong now the temps are like the same at 4.2 as there were at 4.5ghz... but i didnt get any errors.. still a little weird with vcore and vin5:


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Tminp2 is your NB im almost sure, on my ud5 i have almost the same temps on it so. You have a nice air cooler (i love the hyper 212+, i think its the best bang for the buck you can get). Im thinking with good case ventilation you should at least be able to run 4.4-4.6GHz stable np. I think you should start over with your oc prodecure, and do this: reset bios to default values and after reboot turn of all power saving features and turbo and all that stuff. After that change your mutliplier until you get to 4.4Ghz and raise your vcore to maybe lets say 1.42volt. Then check stabilty, and if not stable, raise the vcore 1 step at the time until you get stable and have lets say 1.45 as a roof. Or better just keep your temps within max limits all the time. And last check your NB and HT speeds and set them both to 2400mhz. And in bios set your loadline calibration(llc) to extreme or ultra high. Check this method out. Just focus on clocking with only your multiplier for now! Good luck!


----------



## dmfree88

I was able to get the vcore to even out but the temperature is still having issues.. the motherboard will randomly BEEP like something is wrong during the test. The only way i could get the vcore to settle down was by changing the voltage settings to auto (therefore default) and LLC to ultra high. So technically the only thing I have really changed is turning off all the power saving features and adding to the multiplier. When the beep happens though the temperature spikes. I thought it was the cpu fan failing but i turned off the sensor for the cpu fan and it still beeps.

I tried changing the ht speed and nb multiplier to 2400 each and it made windows aero fail and seemed to have issues. i adjusted it 3 times and then switched back to auto and windows aero instantly fixed. So apparently messing with that effects my graphics somehow. So I decided not to play with that again.

I am going to do some more testing but I dont really know where to look. Will post if I figure something out :/


----------



## madorax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> not 100 percent sure what happened but 14 seconds into first occt test it failed due to error. then i started it again and it worked fine. It seems like its holding temperature better now i may even try to up the multiplier some more. never got over 51 degrees stays around 47-48 through-out the test. But it had a strange drop in voltage and seemed to stay dropped. I dont know what to think about it or what it was supposed to be at but check it out:
> 
> 
> 
> Also I am not sure which temperature is which but do all these temps seem within safe perameters? looked like one of the temp gauges from the gigabyte board (im assuming nb or sb) was getting up to about 60 degrees. not sure what the safe zone is but a little help knowing which is which and whats safe would be appreciated:
> 
> 
> 
> Last question. Is Vin5 supposed to fluctuate constantly? It seems to be the only one with issues and I dont know what it is but you can see the min and max in the above hwmonitor picture, heres the occt result:
> 
> 
> 
> If all these are normal I will be a happy man. If not please let me know so I can do what I can to try to fix it.


because you dont have LLC (i think i read it somewhere that only rev. 3 had it... CMIIW) thats why your vcore drop when load. LLC is stand to prevent it and even up the voltage when load. so i think my setting in earlier post can't be apply on yours.

now... what is your default vcore? mine is 1.38 so increase it to +0.050 already take it to 1.43-1.44v, and High setting LLC will make it goes to 1.466 when load. that's my setting because there is LLC. in you, i think you need to add more volt both vcore and nb to make it stable.

**
_i'm also new to this board and don't have any experience in previous ver. please correct me if rev. 1 or 1.1 UD5 board does have LLC._


----------



## bond32

Well it appears I killed my asus crosshair V formula Z. Due to money I will be getting the UD3 again. Hopefully it will do what I need, I know many of you have issues with it.


----------



## miklkit

Hmmm. You have an FX6300 on water, right? Before you do anything I would suggest you get a Thermalright HR-09U Type 2 heat sink and a fan for it. And an extended warranty.
The UD3 is marginal for the 6300 CPU. Most users seem to be ok with it, but some have troubles. So maybe just keeping the VRMs cool will give you a good experience.

I am RMAing my UD3 and am thinking about using the new one and an FX4350 together in another rig.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> because you dont have LLC (i think i read it somewhere that only rev. 3 had it... CMIIW) thats why your vcore drop when load. LLC is stand to prevent it and even up the voltage when load. so i think my setting in earlier post can't be apply on yours.
> 
> now... what is your default vcore? mine is 1.38 so increase it to +0.050 already take it to 1.43-1.44v, and High setting LLC will make it goes to 1.466 when load. that's my setting because there is LLC. in you, i think you need to add more volt both vcore and nb to make it stable.
> 
> **
> _i'm also new to this board and don't have any experience in previous ver. please correct me if rev. 1 or 1.1 UD5 board does have LLC._


yes it does have LLC. I have tried multiple different settings on it. I just recently got it to level out. i had to set my voltages to auto.. so basically only settings that are changed are all power savers are off and multiplier is increased. LLC set to high. Stable for over an hour.. heres my vcore:



Not too bad a little jumpy at times. But Its way better now. Also I was able to get up to 4.4ghz and never even reached 50 degrees. I dont know why but setting to manual voltage and even bumping it up a little bit makes it unstable.. I seem to be doing ok now. May even try bumping up to 4.5ghz (my original goal) to see how that works.




EVerything did come out a little weird though. Temperatures a little whacky specially on the NB. Then I noticed the 12v rail is jumpy. I think its just my somewhat crappy psu.. working good now though so I wont complain much:


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hmmm. You have an FX6300 on water, right? Before you do anything I would suggest you get a Thermalright HR-09U Type 2 heat sink and a fan for it. And an extended warranty.
> The UD3 is marginal for the 6300 CPU. Most users seem to be ok with it, but some have troubles. So maybe just keeping the VRMs cool will give you a good experience.
> 
> I am RMAing my UD3 and am thinking about using the new one and an FX4350 together in another rig.


Yes on water, I will have a 230mm fan blowing on the VRM so it shouldn't be an issue.


----------



## dmfree88

messed with LLC anything under high has very high vdroop. even failed the test on average setting. as soon as it was set to high it goes up during load but stays level and never drops. LLC - high was def most stable. I think I finally got it to a safe level. gonna try 4.5 ghz then if its stable there I will stop. Seems to be doing fairly well at 4.4 now though. I think the TIM just needed time to settle because I replaced the arctic silver 5 with Antec Nano Diamond seems to perform same temperatures but has evened out atleast now.. Still had idle temperature fluctuations I am not sure if normal but vcore seems good:


----------



## Pis

Hi, new owner here


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pis*
> 
> Hi, new owner here


Are you aware of the problems surrounding that particular motherboard?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Oh if he got a Rev 3 he will know about them soon enough.

I survived vacation, my phone did not though, actually didn't even make it halfway through the initial drive lol. I had to spend 350 dollars unexpectedly on a new one so both the motherboard and car have to wait! So I get to continue on the UD3 adventure! On the bright side the Galaxy S4 is a beast.


----------



## EyeCU247

I can't say that I am new to OCing, but do it so infrequently that I have to re read all the forums and how to guides before I know enough and feel comfortable to get back into it. I just like to know what I am doing to try and not destroy my PC.
Issue is I didn't do that this time, as last time I OCed this PC I was just proving a point about 6/8 months ago, and I found it to be so very easy I thought to do it again.
I know AOD sucks and last time I did anything it was in the BIOS/rebooting after every change... but still doing it anyways to get a rough estimate.

All I did was set the cpu volts to 1.4volts, set the BIOS/CPU power regulating thing to medium (forgot the name), shut off Turbo Mode, and set the multiplier to 22.5.

I get a 4.5GHZ OC CPU @ 61C (MAX, bounced between 59/61C) on air. Ambient temp is 22.5C.

I just want to know if this is typical?
I do plan to lower the volts to see if I can drop a few more Cs.
also if you look at my RIG, I have added the fan/frame to the front of my bench case and have two 120mm fans from an old IBM XEON work station from 2001 (P4 style XEONs). Fans push a lot of air, but also very loud. I plan to swap them out with 140m Shark fans.



Note: This same post was also submitted in another thread. I am trying to get as much feed back on this as I can, and it fits in both threads. (Vishera and 990FXA threads).
Thanks


----------



## dmfree88

I seemed to have trouble with temps spiking when messing with any voltages. I finally got mine settled down by setting all voltages to auto. upping any voltages made it have issues. Set LLC to high, disabled all power saving / cool n quiet etc, set dram to manual 1600 9,9,9,24 (normal). Upped the multiplier bringing it to 4.5 ghz. Significant difference, with voltages set to manual was having major issues. I can probably bump it up some more after longer testing:



Edit: Turns out my ram runs better at 11,11,11,28 trc 36. It seems the dram frequency is 805.4 mhz and that was the spd timings for that frequency. I could be wrong I don't know anything about ram timings but it passed memtest86 no errors so I like it


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Oh if he got a Rev 3 he will know about them soon enough.
> 
> I survived vacation, my phone did not though, actually didn't even make it halfway through the initial drive lol. I had to spend 350 dollars unexpectedly on a new one so both the motherboard and car have to wait! So I get to continue on the UD3 adventure! On the bright side the Galaxy S4 is a beast.


He has a Rev 3.0 the BIOS version was FC.


----------



## miklkit

I just scanned the forums and there are a bunch of new UD3 owners out there. They will be here soon enough......


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I just scanned the forums and there are a bunch of new UD3 owners out there. They will be here soon enough......


yeah I almost bought one myself. ended up going with the MSI 970a-g46.. I guess I would have made a mistake either way. Luckily I sent the msi back and came to my senses and bought the UD5. Although it had some issues too, once I figured it out though it seems to be working good. Havent done some hardcore gaming tests yet though but passed occt and memtest at 4.5ghz so I am happy for now







.

Anyways I am glad I went with the UD5 though its a nice peice of hardware.


----------



## EyeCU247

still looking for some input as I am not sure if these are good /average or bad numbers.

8350 @ 4.5 GHz
1.3875 volts using Core Temp (OHM said 1.376 most of the time, but has a max of 1.408)
50C Max using Core Temp (OHM says Core 1 through 8 = 50.1C MAX, but Temp#3 says 59C Max)
This is with IntelBurnTest finishing with Success @ Stress High and 5 Linpack tests.

Lower volts on CPU fails on the Linpack Test.


----------



## miklkit

I do not know how similar the UD3 and UD5 are, but your numbers look ok to me.
I am running an 8350 @4.52 ghz with the vcore voltage one click (+0.025V) over stock. That is 1.380V min and 1.440V max. My temps depend on the load with it normally running around 40-42C with a max of 55C for gaming. Then comes the OCCT Small Data Set which only takes two minutes to have it throttling and overheating.

I wish we could all use the same software so we are comparing apples to apples.

Here is why the UD3 can not handle the 8XXX cpus and/or overclocking. This is the UD3 VRM heat sink sitting on top of a GD80 VRM heat sink.


----------



## EyeCU247

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I do not know how similar the UD3 and UD5 are, but your numbers look ok to me.
> I am running an 8350 @4.52 ghz with the vcore voltage one click (+0.025V) over stock. That is 1.380V min and 1.440V max. My temps depend on the load with it normally running around 40-42C with a max of 55C for gaming. Then comes the OCCT Small Data Set which only takes two minutes to have it throttling and overheating.
> 
> I wish we could all use the same software so we are comparing apples to apples.
> 
> Here is why the UD3 can not handle the 8XXX cpus and/or overclocking. This is the UD3 VRM heat sink sitting on top of a GD80 VRM heat sink.






What are you using to cool your CPU?
Your pic looks like some kind of water block, says MSI military...
Your rig shows a air cooler....

I am using air to cool, and with IntelBurn my temps were as I said above. I ran Stress Level high and 5 tests. I really don't think my temps in real world will go higher. I just downloaded OCCT will run a few tests to properly compare.


----------



## miklkit

I just installed an MSI 990FXA-GD80 V2 to replace the warped Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 I bought in January. That pic shows the VRM heat sinks of the 2 boards and the MSI one is 3 times larger and has a heat pipe. The CPU socket is under the round plastic cover.
My CPU is air cooled (Arctic A30) and is currently running at 29C (84F) on this new board at with all default settings. I had to reinstall Win7 so am installing updates today. Will stress test in a day or two.

My OC was pure multiplier with it set at 22.5. That was the thermal limit for that setup. You should be able to go farther.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Are you aware of the problems surrounding that particular motherboard fxa990-ud3?


I am just curious but what problems does that particular motherboard have?
I mean, I have an FX 4300 OC at 4.7 (+.1V) 235 bus 20multiplier. everything seems fine to me. I can go up to 4.81 but have not been able to go higher.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

The issues only really affect the 8 core FX CPU's. The VRM's just don't have adequate cooling so they overheat, cause the motherboard to warp, then you get throttling. Gigabyte is pretending there is no problems. Its just been one very big headache. You having the 4 core should be just fine.


----------



## Pudfark

Exactly Ozzinator....Howdy !

Which is why I changed from my UD3 Rev. 1.1 warped board to a Asus 990FX Sabertooth R.2 board with my AMD 8350 CPU, six or so weeks ago.
One heck of a difference. Much lower temps, much lower volts, no warping whatsoever....same OC @ 4.6 ghz on all 8 cores. Now, no worries at all.

I was a Gigabyte fan for years. It is just a shame they won't admit that the 8 core AMD's are to much when OCed on the UD3 boards.
I feel for you guys here....I was one of ya for several months...until I wised up and bought a Sabertooth. You guys take care, hang in there or join the "Sabertooth" forums here. Best of Luck to All.


----------



## AlwaysGood

What all in one water cooler is best for getting my 8120 up to 4.2/4.5ghz? I prefer to get recommendation from someone here that one of the review sites.


----------



## AlwaysGood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Exactly Ozzinator....Howdy !
> 
> Which is why I changed from my UD3 Rev. 1.1 warped board to a Asus 990FX Sabertooth R.2 board with my AMD 8350 CPU, six or so weeks ago.
> One heck of a difference. Much lower temps, much lower volts, no warping whatsoever....same OC @ 4.6 ghz on all 8 cores. Now, no worries at all.
> 
> I was a Gigabyte fan for years. It is just a shame they won't admit that the 8 core AMD's are to much when OCed on the UD3 boards.
> I feel for you guys here....I was one of ya for several months...until I wised up and bought a Sabertooth. You guys take care, hang in there or join the "Sabertooth" forums here. Best of Luck to All.


How are you liking that Sabertooth board? And how much cooler is the board overall? Also what do you not like or had problems with?


----------



## madorax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pudfark*
> 
> Exactly Ozzinator....Howdy !
> 
> Which is why I changed from my UD3 Rev. 1.1 warped board to a Asus 990FX Sabertooth R.2 board with my AMD 8350 CPU, six or so weeks ago.
> One heck of a difference. Much lower temps, much lower volts, no warping whatsoever....same OC @ 4.6 ghz on all 8 cores. Now, no worries at all.
> 
> I was a Gigabyte fan for years. It is just a shame they won't admit that the 8 core AMD's are to much when OCed on the UD3 boards.
> I feel for you guys here....I was one of ya for several months...until I wised up and bought a Sabertooth. You guys take care, hang in there or join the "Sabertooth" forums here. Best of Luck to All.


is that the max that you can get with that high peripherals? what is your max cpu temp on 10 minutes FFT prime & 10 run of IBT? just curious with the temp we can get with that nice board & cooler ^^

this is my OC setting right now since 2 day's ago. pass IBT 10x /normal. prime FFT 10 minutes. OCCT large data set 5 minutes. max core is 62c, socket is 51c.
i think it's pretty stable since i had no error or whatsoever using all the program & games with this.



what i'm curious is... in my setting above, that's an oc with more than 1Ghz since the default clock is 3.500. and i can manage to make the temp with the limit, meaning in reality i will never get more that 56c. (i've tested it with converting file to DVD with Nero Video 12 + convert another video with Freemake + streaming youtube + download + winamp + playing 1080p mkv file with MPC all with almost 98% load all the time but the temp never go above 56c). now with your lower oc setting (4Ghz default to 4.6Ghz = 600mhz OC) isn't suppose your temp is much lower than me? I assume so, so with that conclusion why not go for 4.9 daily or even 5?


----------



## BuZADAM

gigabyte has been realese new beta bios for 990fxa ud7 rev 1.0


----------



## ebduncan

interesting.

MY rev 1.0 ud3 served me well, by that I mean with in the first month my first board was dead, only recognized one channel of memory. Recived my replacement another rev 1.0, Worked for about a year then the onboard network lan died, everything else worked though. I was tempted to just install a lan card and be done with it. Then I got to thinking and a broken motherboard has no resale value. So i Rma'ed it.

Now I have a brand new Rev 3.0 UD3.

I guess i will find out if there are any issues with the Ud3 rev 3.0, that i can confirm. I've yet to install it, honestly trying to sell it and get the Crosshair V. Shame I don't have the 35 rep required to list on these boards.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> interesting.
> 
> MY rev 1.0 ud3 served me well, by that I mean with in the first month my first board was dead, only recognized one channel of memory. Recived my replacement another rev 1.0, Worked for about a year then the onboard network lan died, everything else worked though. I was tempted to just install a lan card and be done with it. Then I got to thinking and a broken motherboard has no resale value. So i Rma'ed it.
> 
> Now I have a brand new Rev 3.0 UD3.
> 
> I guess i will find out if there are any issues with the Ud3 rev 3.0, that i can confirm. I've yet to install it, honestly trying to sell it and get the Crosshair V. Shame I don't have the 35 rep required to list on these boards.


Definitely sell it. Your CPU at 5Ghz will kill it. These VRM's can't handle it. Unless you upgrade the cooling but even then I'm not sure it can take it. I really believe they went to a different VRM supplier and these chips are inferior to the previous revisions. I'll give you some rep so you can sell here lol.

Well it only bumped you up 1. Dammit, I tried!


----------



## miklkit

I replaced my UD3 but have not mailed it for RMA yet. It seems putting that hard rubber plug behind the board really helped it, as it is almost straight now.
Except in the VRM area.........









I'm now curious as to what Gigabyte will say about it.

If I get a straight UD3 back I'm thinking about putting a 4XXX CPU on it and putting it in a puter that is used for internet stuff and light gaming.


----------



## Pudfark

Ozz was the first, I believe, to accurately identify the VRM/Warped Board problem here. I'm not a believer anymore in "stress testing" a MB until ya melt it or burn something up.
My UD3 board warped at 4.6ghz in less than two months with the 8350. I could definitely go with a higher OC on the Sabertooth, I choose not too. The highest temp noted with openhardware monitor
has been 42C at a fluctuating 75-100 percent load, while running multiple scanning programs simultaneously.

What made my mind up to choose the Sabertooth was the back of the board where the VRM's are located. Asus chose to reinforce that area so the board could not warp. Note: the UD3 board is bare in
that area. I run an Antec spot fan on the top side of the board on the VRM's and a 80mm fan on the backside of the board on the VRM's, Cpu. Those who choose or are economically forced to continue to
use the UD3 should strong consider cooling the VRM's on both sides of the board imho.

Go to NewEgg and look at the pictures of a UD3 board and a Sabertooth board. Seeing is believing. I'm not here to bash Gigabyte, I'm just saying, what Ozz has said, the UD3 board is not OCing friendly
to 8 core CPU's.

I'm pretty certain that nearly everybody here is a better and more experienced OCer than me. It's sorta like milking a cow, up to a point....then, squeezing the teats harder? Only makes the cow mad.









I believe that even an 8 core @ stock speeds under heavy loads, like stress testing will still warp a UD3 board eventually. Just my opinion.

Salute to ya Ozz...go Sabertooth and be cool.


----------



## hajnalka

New revision

990FXA-UD3 REV4.0

http://www.techpowerup.com/186972/gigabyte-rolls-out-990fxa-ud3-rev-4.html


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> New revision
> 
> 990FXA-UD3 REV4.0
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/186972/gigabyte-rolls-out-990fxa-ud3-rev-4.html


Nice! Hope people actually get rev4. Thats cool sounds impressive. Maybe they will do the same with ud5 now

They did it to ud7 aswell:

http://www.techpowerup.com/186340/gigabyte-rolls-out-990fxa-ud7-rev-3-0-with-updated-feature-set.html


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> New revision
> 
> 990FXA-UD3 REV4.0
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/186972/gigabyte-rolls-out-990fxa-ud3-rev-4.html


Too little too late for me.









But it does look like they have improved what is inadequate on their rev. 3 boards.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

They need to provide all of us rev 3 owners with warping issues one of these new board as a replacement.


----------



## miklkit

I'll drink to that!


----------



## AlwaysGood

A du3 with ud5-like HS, meh! The heat on my ud5 is insane and to at insult to injury I live the Caribbean. So now instead of getting a SSD, more ram, HDD's or 120hz monitor I have to think about changing my mother board


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Well everybody! I have finally gotten rid of my 990FXA-ud3 rev 3.0 motherboard!

I resorted to buying a UD5 on Ebay and I just got done installing it today! I got a rev 1.1 board and I am totally excited to finally be overclocking for once ^^.

Also, can anyone tell me is there is any inherit advantaged to overclocking the bus versus the multiplier?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> Well everybody! I have finally gotten rid of my 990FXA-ud3 rev 3.0 motherboard!
> 
> I resorted to buying a UD5 on Ebay and I just got done installing it today! I got a rev 1.1 board and I am totally excited to finally be overclocking for once ^^.
> 
> Also, can anyone tell me is there is any inherit advantaged to overclocking the bus versus the multiplier?


For OC'ing the ram/NB etc yes.
However if you mean apples for apples there is an extremely small ( a fraction of a percent) difference multi vs 'FSB' depending on what type of operation you are running. So in practical terms the answer is no.


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> For OC'ing the ram/NB etc yes.
> However if you mean apples for apples there is an extremely small ( a fraction of a percent) difference multi vs 'FSB' depending on what type of operation you are running. So in practical terms the answer is no.


Alrighty then, pure multiplier it is!

So far, I have reached 4.7 GHz on 1.44 V! I ran OCCT for about 30 minute and so far no problems. Temperatures have stayed at 55-56 C and I think all the other temps/voltages are fine.


----------



## Shadowace

I own a GA990FXA-UD5 rev.1x Just got a Noctua NH-C14 and that made a huge difference in the NB temp, when using stock AMD 8150 heatsink NB and VRM idles @50C+ when running light gaming it can go up to 90C!!! Assuming the TMPIN3 is the NB temp, I also used a Laser Temperature Sensor to test the VRM and it came back with even higher readings than the NB!
After changing to Nocuta NH-C14, VRM and NB now idles at 35~40C and when gaming it doesn't go over 50C. Looks like the two big push-pull fans does help with motherboard cooling.
Highly recommended getting the C type over the D type. You might lose few degrees on cpu cooling but the C type helps out on motherboard cooling. Especially with the GA-990 overheating problems.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> They need to provide all of us rev 3 owners with warping issues one of these new board as a replacement.


Yup. And wow, no wonder they never worked on that BIOS.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowace*
> 
> I own a GA990FXA-UD5 rev.1x Just got a Noctua NH-C14 and that made a huge difference in the NB temp, when using stock AMD 8150 heatsink NB and VRM idles @50C+ when running light gaming it can go up to 90C!!! Assuming the TMPIN3 is the NB temp, I also used a Laser Temperature Sensor to test the VRM and it came back with even higher readings than the NB!
> After changing to Nocuta NH-C14, VRM and NB now idles at 35~40C and when gaming it doesn't go over 50C. Looks like the two big push-pull fans does help with motherboard cooling.
> Highly recommended getting the C type over the D type. You might lose few degrees on cpu cooling but the C type helps out on motherboard cooling. Especially with the GA-990 overheating problems.


Now that is interesting. I was planning on getting an NH-U14S but now have to consider this one too. It looks like I would need to mount a fan on the side cover to feed it air.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Yup. And wow, no wonder they never worked on that BIOS.


Yeah, I'd say they KNOW it is a problem. However if they never admit it they don't have to do anything about the people that have filed complaints. This sleezy company won't ever get money from me again.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Definitely sell it. Your CPU at 5Ghz will kill it. These VRM's can't handle it. Unless you upgrade the cooling but even then I'm not sure it can take it. I really believe they went to a different VRM supplier and these chips are inferior to the previous revisions. I'll give you some rep so you can sell here lol.
> 
> Well it only bumped you up 1. Dammit, I tried!


Thanks Dude! my Rig is water cooled, so no overheating issues here. (even the VRMS were water cooled)

seems you were not alone haha.

On another Note, I like the revision 4 model for the UD3. They improved the cooling solution it looks like and are now using different power circuitry. I don't understand why gigabyte didn't admit its faults with these first revision boards. I mean why revise a board 5 different times!, then don't admit something was wrong. You revised it 5 times! why? exactly my point.

Going to sell my Ud3 Rev 3.0. Think I will just keep using my old computer for the meanwhile, till i see some reviews of the rev 4.0. Might grab it if it gets good reviews, and positive user feedback on here. Otherwise I will soon be a Crosshair V Formula Z user.


----------



## EyeCU247

Just ran OCCT @ 4.5Ghz OC


CoreTemp reports max CPU temp to be 55C.
Can I trust CoreTemp to be accurate? Or is there a better tool?
AOD said 61C at each core.


----------



## miklkit

I am not familiar with CoreTemp. I have been using CPUID Hardware Monitor until yesterday when I was told elsewhere that it gives bad readings and to only use HWiNFO64.
It does indeed give more and better readings. 61C is probably more accurate based on what I have seen with mine.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I am not familiar with CoreTemp. I have been using CPUID Hardware Monitor until yesterday when I was told elsewhere that it gives bad readings and to only use HWiNFO64.
> It does indeed give more and better readings. 61C is probably more accurate based on what I have seen with mine.


Thanks for letting me know about HWiNFO64. much more information then the other apps.
Its actually telling me my temps are lower then the other apps. With using OCCT to test (same OC 4.5Ghz), CPU#0 says it get up to 54.8C and The other CPU temp sensor says up to 47C. Any idea on what part of the CPU/Socket they are actually measuring the temp of?


----------



## riemann42

Please correct me anyone if I am wrong, but I am pretty sure that the temps reported by the cpu core are synthetic. For example, my current temp is 23 (with a low of 10). Ambient is 28. I use TMPIN1 from the motherboard for a better idea of temperature. For my water cooled computer this is still less than TMPIN0, which is a near constant 42.


----------



## riemann42

@Ozzy: Been away for a bit. The fan screwed into my VRM Cooler is working great for me. How is your board doing?


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EyeCU247*
> 
> Thanks for letting me know about HWiNFO64. much more information then the other apps.
> Its actually telling me my temps are lower then the other apps. With using OCCT to test (same OC 4.5Ghz), CPU#0 says it get up to 54.8C and The other CPU temp sensor says up to 47C. Any idea on what part of the CPU/Socket they are actually measuring the temp of?


I'm jealous. Your Zalman not only looks great but has your 8350 running about 5C cooler than mine at the same 4.5 ghz.









No I don't know which is what yet. I've only been using HWINFO64 for 2 days myself.


----------



## EyeCU247

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I'm jealous. Your Zalman not only looks great but has your 8350 running about 5C cooler than mine at the same 4.5 ghz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No I don't know which is what yet. I've only been using HWINFO64 for 2 days myself.


Not to put down the Zalman... But it is not working alone. It has some help from a few case fans I pulled out of an old Xeon workstation. I should take a picture of the case as it is today.
Still not putting down the Zalman... it is the first Zalman I have bought and as such every few months I read reviews to compare it with newer Zalman CPU heatsinks/fans and other brands. It still seems to be up their with the best (but is beaten). The main reason I bought it is that it is a 300 watt cooler and as such would take a lot of heat before it would be overwhelmed and no longer able to cool. The speed at witch it can cool or release the heat is another matter... Not saying that it is bad, just a different measurement and both details go hand in hand.
In the end, the fact I am using a bench case, and have the front case fans, I am not sure if another air cooler would work better for my situation. (as the cooler is an open and resembles a passive cooler)
I really do like the cooler. I am surprised I can get away with this OC on a cooler that was released 3 years ago.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riemann42*
> 
> @Ozzy: Been away for a bit. The fan screwed into my VRM Cooler is working great for me. How is your board doing?


So far so good. Its really loud when the fan gets to spinning 5K RPM but still no throttling. I still need to get a IR thermometer, I want to see just how hot that heatsink really is.


----------



## dmfree88

My temps are slowly getting worse and worse. unable to stay stable at 4.5ghz anymore. Also i hooked up my enermax tb silence fan as a pull on the heatsink. Still unable to stay stable. Also noticing an audible noise coming from GPU or GPU slot. Everytime i move anything on the screen or scroll with the mouse I can hear a slight buzz out of the computer. It even does it when you click the scroller and slide down the page slowly. Its coming from the gpu after listening closely. Tried replacing tim on gpu just to be sure its not having issue. I dont know whats going on but I think I am going to replace the cpu tim again, I think when I install it it keeps rotating while i screw down the screws, i think this pushes the tim out towards the edge. Im not very impressed with this cooler because of this. Ill let everyone know how it goes but anyone else have this issue with gpu on the UD5?


----------



## Shadowace

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Now that is interesting. I was planning on getting an NH-U14S but now have to consider this one too. It looks like I would need to mount a fan on the side cover to feed it air.


Yeah better have a side panel intake fan to feed the monster, C-14.
If you've got the same VRM/North bridge overheating problem than I guess this is the easiest 'fix' for it. I did see a post about removing the 'pads' under the NB heatsink and putting on after market heatsinks for it.
Current case fan setup
Front:230x30 mm Intake
Top:200x30mm fan x 2 exhaust
Side:200x30mm fan x 1 intake
Rear:140x25mm fan x 1 exhaust
Just did the tissue test, seems to be getting a negative pressure inside the case. I'll try to play around with one of the intake/exhaust fans when I have some spare time to see if I can get a positive pressure inside the case. And if it makes much temp difference.


----------



## miklkit

My UD3 is in the mail getting RMA'ed. If I get a non warped one back it will get a Thermalright HR-09U heat pipe heat sink for the VRMs. It stands 2"/ 52mm tall and gets up into the airstream of the rear exhaust fan, so it gets air. I saw a 5C drop in temps compared to the Enzotech it replaced. I'm thinking of building another non gaming puter around it using a 4XXX or 6XXX CPU.

The C14 might be a good choice with the current motherboard as its heat sinks are pretty low, but it runs cool as is. Decisions decisions...


----------



## Hellsrage

So uh, lets play a little game. Can anyone see the numbers that have me confused and slightly worried?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Look at the Max Core clock.



I don't know what to make of this.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> So uh, lets play a little game. Can anyone see the numbers that have me confused and slightly worried?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Look at the Max Core clock.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what to make of this.


That is officially known as a glitch LOL
Makes a nice screenshot though


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> That is officially known as a glitch LOL
> Makes a nice screenshot though


Yeah I figured as much. lol

But I wouldn't doubt that this board did something silly like that, every week I wonder when it will KO itself.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Yeah I figured as much. lol
> 
> But I wouldn't doubt that this board did something silly like that, every week I wonder when it will KO itself.


It might next week if it keeps jumpin up to 8 gigz LOL


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> It might next week if it keeps jumpin up to 8 gigz LOL


Or maybe I secretly have the best mobo ever created.


----------



## budoops

I recently purchased GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD5 (ver3)
Since installation of windows I have been having problems with the audio/usb
Anytime I play audio (cds, Streaming via browser, skype etc) I lose my USB connections (mouse, kb, flash drive) and the audio becomes garbled/static/whine
I have tried the default windows drivers for the audio, the ones from gigabyte site and the latest from realtek's
I have the latest AMD chipset drivers (ver 13.4) installed

Anyone has experienced anything like this, or have any ideas as to what may be causing it?

Any help would be appreciated....


----------



## ebduncan

perhaps uninstall the Dolby home theater software. (its not needed and has been known to cause issues in audio playback)


----------



## miklkit

No C14 for me. I like the idea of blowing air onto the motherboard but it will not fit in my case. So it will probably be a U14S. The D14 will not fit either.


----------



## darkelixa

Heya, im looking at buying either the ga-990fx-ud3 or asus sabertooth rv2. Which do you think would be a better board as they are very close to the same price with the asus only being about $30 more. The asus board does not have a dual bios chip like the gigabyte


----------



## itomic

Sabertooth is top notch board as is UD5. Buy one of those, not UD3.


----------



## darkelixa

Would it be a problem since the sabertooth only has one bios and could easily get corrupted unlike the gigabyte?


----------



## InsaneCB

Hi Guys, I've the GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 3.0 and found in a issues on the sensor temp CPU. At 25ºC in room, the sensor temp show 8ºC







...

Any idea about that ???


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Would it be a problem since the sabertooth only has one bios and could easily get corrupted unlike the gigabyte?


To be completely honest, I have been building custom PC's for over 15 years. I have only once corrupted a BIOS and it happened because the power flickered when it was flashing (my lovely power company!) To me how many BIOS it has is not something I even consider when buying a board.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsaneCB*
> 
> Hi Guys, I've the GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 3.0 and found in a issues on the sensor temp CPU. At 25ºC in room, the sensor temp show 8ºC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> 
> Any idea about that ???


I bet you are using CPUID hardware monitor anf that is at idle temperatures. Try using HWINFO64 for a comparison.


----------



## InsaneCB

I'm use Aida64 and compare with HWINFO64 it's the same result. The motherboard of a friend (GA-970A-UD3 rev 3.0) has the same problem. "UEFI" giga problem ??


----------



## ebduncan

keep in mind there is no actual temperate sensor on the amd FX processor. The temp is computed.

Its only really accurate above 30c.


----------



## miklkit

Ah. Gotta remember that.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Heya, im looking at buying either the ga-990fx-ud3 or asus sabertooth rv2. Which do you think would be a better board as they are very close to the same price with the asus only being about $30 more. The asus board does not have a dual bios chip like the gigabyte


You dont want the ud3, the sabertooth will be much better, the dual bios is a nice but rarely used feature. You would be much happier with the sabertooth. I would say go with the UD5 but i am getting more and more angry with mine. I shoulda went with sabertooth


----------



## darkelixa

On my last gigabyte board when i was flashing the power dropped during a flash and the only thing that saved the board was being able to restore the secondary bios otherwise it would of been a $250 paperweight


----------



## miklkit

Buy a good UPS with an LED on the front and never worry about power outages again. Mine has saved my systems hundreds of times in the last decade or so.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> On my last gigabyte board when i was flashing the power dropped during a flash and the only thing that saved the board was being able to restore the secondary bios otherwise it would of been a $250 paperweight


buy a new bios chip? there dirt cheap and come pre-flashed to what you need. Also flashing the bios is always a risk, you burn one the other ones still gonna be at risk.. with all the problems the ud3 has its not worth it for the one feature of the dual bios vs the features/quality of the sabertooth


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> buy a new bios chip? there dirt cheap and come pre-flashed to what you need. Also flashing the bios is always a risk, you burn one the other ones still gonna be at risk.. with all the problems the ud3 has its not worth it for the one feature of the dual bios vs the features/quality of the sabertooth


The new motherboards do not have interchangeable bios chips. No such thing as getting a new phoenix, or award bios chip and solving your woes anymore.


----------



## dmfree88

Really? that sucks i had no idea. Just like cell phones, makin it impossible to remove anything so you have to replace the whole damn thing


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So I found this on Xtremesystems reading about the Bulldozer/Vishera FPU block. Looks like us UD3 Rev 3 owners are even getting screwed out of the latest CPU AGESA. Am I surprised? Not at all. Remember Gigabyte told us the new BIOS would be released in April!

From thread http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?286448-The-Book-of-Bulldozer-Revelations-Episode-2-(SuperPI-x87)


----------



## miklkit

Aww Ozzman, if it weren't for bad luck you would have no luck at all. First gigabyte won't rma your board and now this fix won't work either.

I read that thread and got the doodad, and it works. I bet you play lots of older games and that is what that thing is for. I saw a15fps improvement in an old DX8 game.


----------



## darkelixa

I asked a company that has the 990fx-ud3 in stock and they said its a revision 3? Is that bad or get the sabertooth rv2?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Aww Ozzman, if it weren't for bad luck you would have no luck at all. First gigabyte won't rma your board and now this fix won't work either.
> 
> I read that thread and got the doodad, and it works. I bet you play lots of older games and that is what that thing is for. I saw a15fps improvement in an old DX8 game.


Oh the unlocker works for me too but when the AGESA isn't updated you are potentially losing performance and bug fixes. I mean surely they are going to include the AGESA in the new BIOS update, if it ever gets released lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> I asked a company that has the 990fx-ud3 in stock and they said its a revision 3? Is that bad or get the sabertooth rv2?


Well it really depends on what CPU you plan on using. If you plan on using an 8 core FX don't get the UD3 go with the Sabertooth. If you have no plans to ever run an 8 core you could probably get away with the UD3 fine, however I'd honestly spend the extra money on the Sabertooth.


----------



## darkelixa

Well it really depends on what CPU you plan on using. If you plan on using an 8 core FX don't get the UD3 go with the Sabertooth. If you have no plans to ever run an 8 core you could probably get away with the UD3 fine, however I'd honestly spend the extra money on the Sabertooth.[/quote]

Heya,

Yes I am definitely buying the Amd 8350 cpu and the places that are getting the asus sabertooth rv2 back into stock the price just increased up to $225


----------



## FiatluX

Guess they were busy building the V4 in hope that we´d buy one of those, instead of coding a better bios for the V3.. Does it say cashcow on my back??


----------



## miklkit

darkelixa: I jumped into the deep end of the pool and went MSI 990XA-GD80 V2. So far it is running waay cooler than the UD3 and the bios is waay easier to use, plus it is $165 at Newegg. I have over $200 in my UD3 so far..........


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> Guess they were busy building the V4 in hope that we´d buy one of those, instead of coding a better bios for the V3.. Does it say cashcow on my back??


or perhaps a better bios wouldn't have fixed the problem. A company will always try to fix what they have first before resorting to re-design.

The ud3 is on its 5th revision. Hopefully Rev 4.0 is the last revision.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> or perhaps a better bios wouldn't have fixed the problem. A company will always try to fix what they have first before resorting to re-design.
> 
> The ud3 is on its 5th revision. Hopefully Rev 4.0 is the last revision.


They spent more time denying there was a problem and telling us its a BIOS issue than anything. Then it was telling us there was actually no problem and dancing around the issue. If it weren't for people like me and the others going out of our way to find out what was happening and fix it then making it public this new Rev wouldn't exist. They apparently think we are stupid. But hey the reviews by people on Newegg say its fine and we should update our SATA drivers







So then this Rev 4 appears with "revised VRM's" and better heatsinks! Imagine that, call me stupid then implement my proposed fixes. I'm glad they listened but I'm not so happy with the process of being talked down too even though I'm the guy that fixed their issue and told them what was up.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> darkelixa: I jumped into the deep end of the pool and went MSI 990XA-GD80 V2. So far it is running waay cooler than the UD3 and the bios is waay easier to use, plus it is $165 at Newegg. I have over $200 in my UD3 so far..........


I think you made a good choice here. I was super impressed with how well my crappy 970a-g46 worked. If it came with LLC it would have been just as good or better then my 990fxa-ud5 (asside from crappy vrm heatsinks). I think going with the cost equivilant MSI would have been a better choice for me. (like the 990xa-gd80) But I am finally getting my ud5 closer to stable so I wont complain







I really like MSI's bios and features though. Felt better


----------



## miklkit

Yes the GD80 is working out well for me, but I suspect that there will be a new wave of unsatisfied users for it soon. Their newest bios is for win8 only and people are trying it with win7 and getting bad results.









I am anxious to get a UD3 back from RMA so I can try it with a more appropriate CPU like a 4350. That should be ok for surfing and light gaming. I now have enough spare parts to just about build another pc.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Yes the GD80 is working out well for me, but I suspect that there will be a new wave of unsatisfied users for it soon. Their newest bios is for win8 only and people are trying it with win7 and getting bad results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am anxious to get a UD3 back from RMA so I can try it with a more appropriate CPU like a 4350. That should be ok for surfing and light gaming. I now have enough spare parts to just about build another pc.


Haha im in the same boat. I keep buying replacement parts and keeping the old ones. I am going to try to build a low end build for my buddy with the msi 970a-g46. Hopefully with a lower end phenom II or something I will be able to achieve stability.


----------



## RustySocket

I bought this MB and a fx8320 B.E ,with 8GB crucial 1600mhz ram, its got rev 3 on the board.
and a radeon HD7770 black diamond o/c.

my bios is flashed to version FC , the bios settings are mostly locked to auto. fsb frequency, cpu muliplier...etc are locked.
maybe its just me missing something, but im tired of searching and reading that this board sucks.

this setup also dosent respond well to easy tune....locks at 3.8 and no easy boost option.
amd overdrive will tune it but disappears from ccc after the reboot.

any help is good help !! thanks.


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RustySocket*
> 
> I bought this MB and a fx8320 B.E ,with 8GB crucial 1600mhz ram, its got rev 3 on the board.
> and a radeon HD7770 black diamond o/c.
> 
> my bios is flashed to version FC , the bios settings are mostly locked to auto. fsb frequency, cpu muliplier...etc are locked.
> maybe its just me missing something, but im tired of searching and reading that this board sucks.
> 
> this setup also dosent respond well to easy tune....locks at 3.8 and no easy boost option.
> amd overdrive will tune it but disappears from ccc after the reboot.
> 
> any help is good help !! thanks.


Which is that you have Rev 3.0 of UD3, UD5 or UD7 ?


----------



## ebduncan

anyone see any reviews of the ud3 rev 4.0?

I like to see what some reviewers think of it.


----------



## miklkit

I haven't heard anything new about the rev4 but am also interested in finding out just how much they changed.

RustySocket: I know it's tedious reading but all the information you need is in this thread. If you have a UD3 the last 100 pages are so are what you want to read.

In a nutshell make sure there is good airflow through the case, put a small fan on the VRMs, and watch the temps carefully. The bios is hard to work with but that is where to make any changes. I had bad luck with AMD OD and Easytune too.


----------



## RustySocket

sorry its ud3


----------



## RustySocket

thank you


----------



## RustySocket

i never thought to check the forums , i just assumed it would be good to go !.


----------



## ebduncan

Easy Tune 6, is junk forget about it.

AMD Over Drive is better, but its still better to go into the bios and make the changes there.

If your shortcut disappeared, then go to the search, and find the .exe


----------



## miklkit

Lots of us thought that too because of Gigabyte's reputation. You just need to be extra careful with an 8XXX cpu and the UD3. It runs hot anyway and any little thing can tip it over the edge. Once you learn how to make the bios work I would suggest just going one click over stock volts on the VCORE and go as far as you can with the multiplier. No more than that and you should be safe.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Lots of us thought that too because of Gigabyte's reputation. You just need to be extra careful with an 8XXX cpu and the UD3. It runs hot anyway and any little thing can tip it over the edge. Once you learn how to make the bios work I would suggest just going one click over stock volts on the VCORE and go as far as you can with the multiplier. No more than that and you should be safe.


I don't have any issues, with 5ghz and 1.525 volts. My Vrm's aren't even cooled with a fan atm. They are cool to touch. I replaced the thermal pad (higher quality) on them and secured the heatsink with screws instead of the push pins.

northbridge gets toasty with out the fan, vrms are fine though. ud3 rev 1.0

I had a fan on them, but haven't plugged it back in after i had a repair done for the lan port.


----------



## RustySocket

thats just it , the bios settings wont change from what they are in the bios.
the only real option i can change is hpc and turbo


----------



## vonss

http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#ov
This rev seems so much better, both visually and performance-wise. I feel an urge to sell mine and get that one xD


----------



## miklkit

ebduncan: I looked at your rig and was going to ask you how you got 5ghz with a UD3. My experience was the exact opposite.

I replaced the stock cooler with a tall Thermalright HR-09U type2 that has a heat pipe and sits tall enough to get into the air stream from the 120mm case fans, replaced the heat pad, put TIM under said pad and at 4.52ghz the VRMs would get so hot that the case behind them was too hot to touch! Yes the heat warped the board and this was with the VCORE one click (0.025v) over stock.

RustySocket: I arrived here on page 455 and found instructions on how to set the bios. I do not remember exactly which one it is, but I think it is the last one on the list, but you need to disable one item and then let it boot to Windows.
Reboot to the bios.
Make your changes and enable that last item.
Boot into Windows and see how your changes work.

I got a reply from Gigabyte about my UD3 RMA! They said that they can not find anything wrong with the hard drive controller.







The only issues I had with hard drives was that it would not recognize them until they had been formatted.

I RMA'd it because of overheating and a bad bios that caused more overheating.









So it looks like I will be getting the same warped board back. $220 flushed down the toilet...........


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> ebduncan: I looked at your rig and was going to ask you how you got 5ghz with a UD3. My experience was the exact opposite.
> 
> I replaced the stock cooler with a tall Thermalright HR-09U type2 that has a heat pipe and sits tall enough to get into the air stream from the 120mm case fans, replaced the heat pad, put TIM under said pad and at 4.52ghz the VRMs would get so hot that the case behind them was too hot to touch! Yes the heat warped the board and this was with the VCORE one click (0.025v) over stock.
> 
> RustySocket: I arrived here on page 455 and found instructions on how to set the bios. I do not remember exactly which one it is, but I think it is the last one on the list, but you need to disable one item and then let it boot to Windows.
> Reboot to the bios.
> Make your changes and enable that last item.
> Boot into Windows and see how your changes work.
> 
> I got a reply from Gigabyte about my UD3 RMA! They said that they can not find anything wrong with the hard drive controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only issues I had with hard drives was that it would not recognize them until they had been formatted.
> 
> I RMA'd it because of overheating and a bad bios that caused more overheating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it looks like i will be getting the same warped board back. $220 flushed down the toilet...........


Guess you don't have a rev 1.0. Also your board may have been warped before you replaced the cooler. I also took a piece of aluminum stock and put it on the back side of the vrms with thermal tape, and the same screws which hold the top heatsink on.

I also have a 140mm fan blowing in above the I/O panel.] How did I get 5ghz? its called 520mm of rad space and super low temps.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> ebduncan: I looked at your rig and was going to ask you how you got 5ghz with a UD3. My experience was the exact opposite.
> 
> I replaced the stock cooler with a tall Thermalright HR-09U type2 that has a heat pipe and sits tall enough to get into the air stream from the 120mm case fans, replaced the heat pad, put TIM under said pad and at 4.52ghz the VRMs would get so hot that the case behind them was too hot to touch! Yes the heat warped the board and this was with the VCORE one click (0.025v) over stock.
> 
> RustySocket: I arrived here on page 455 and found instructions on how to set the bios. I do not remember exactly which one it is, but I think it is the last one on the list, but you need to disable one item and then let it boot to Windows.
> Reboot to the bios.
> Make your changes and enable that last item.
> Boot into Windows and see how your changes work.
> 
> I got a reply from Gigabyte about my UD3 RMA! They said that they can not find anything wrong with the hard drive controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only issues I had with hard drives was that it would not recognize them until they had been formatted.
> 
> I RMA'd it because of overheating and a bad bios that caused more overheating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it looks like i will be getting the same warped board back. $220 flushed down the toilet...........


Welcome to the wonderful world of Gigabyte support! See how they do their damndest to dance around the potential fire hazard they have going on here? This is not how customers should be treated but then again when you are as big as Gigabyte I guess it really doesn't matter.


----------



## miklkit

Yeah, it's a rev3. It was still straight when, following Ozzy's lead, I bolted in an Enzotech cooler but was warped from the heat when I bolted in the Thermalright cooler. That cooler still made a 5C difference. I also have 3 - 120mm fans in that corner of the case. A 74cfm one on the back of the cpu hsf, a 56 cfm exhuast on top, and a 110cfm rear exhaust fan. That is in addition to 4 other 120mm 56cfm intake fans. There is air flow!

Ayup! Well, when people got tired of Glenn Beck we started complaining to corporations advertising on his show and he is gone. When we complained to Rush Limbaugh's corporate sponsors he lost 40% of them. When we complained to ALEC's corporate sponsors a bunch of them like Coca Cola and Pepsi dropped out, but Intel still supports it. I will never buy another Intel product.

Maybe the same thing can be done with Gigabyte.


----------



## RustySocket

did they fix the bios ? so you can change the settings.


----------



## RustySocket

some of you guys are pushing past 1ghz o/c unbelievable. all i want is a modest over clock...as far as the stock setup will let me go.
i will re-start reading at page 450 , thanks for the help your guys.


----------



## RustySocket

i followed these instructions which are easy to read and understand with no good results.

#1 First for the GIGABYTE 990FXA boards, disable Core Boost, save and restart. Then go back into the BIOS. Now set the multiplier for the OC you want, but JUST the CPU multiplier. Set something modest like 4.5ghz. Then increase the Vcore to something higher than needed, like 1.45v, but not higher and ONLY if you have good cooling. If you have LLC option set it to the highest or second to highest. Restart and you should be able to boot in if you didn't change the HTT/FSB or any of the other multiplier.
Be aware that the reviews posted used a bit too much voltage for their OCes, they used brute force. If you are lucky you can get something like this without changing the HTT/FSB or other settings.

i jumpered the bios reset pins to clear cmos disabled core boost then save and exit..reboot to bios and still no way to set cpu multiplier.
the clock settings, freq settings are all lock to default or auto.

i spent 150can on this board, 5 years ago i switched from using asus boards for my upgrades because of some direction from a friend and this m/b hits a wall with me.
im going to end up eating it....metal for breakfast !!


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RustySocket*
> 
> i followed these instructions which are easy to read and understand with no good results.
> 
> #1 First for the GIGABYTE 990FXA boards, disable Core Boost, save and restart. Then go back into the BIOS. Now set the multiplier for the OC you want, but JUST the CPU multiplier. Set something modest like 4.5ghz. Then increase the Vcore to something higher than needed, like 1.45v, but not higher and ONLY if you have good cooling. If you have LLC option set it to the highest or second to highest. Restart and you should be able to boot in if you didn't change the HTT/FSB or any of the other multiplier.
> Be aware that the reviews posted used a bit too much voltage for their OCes, they used brute force. If you are lucky you can get something like this without changing the HTT/FSB or other settings.
> 
> i jumpered the bios reset pins to clear cmos disabled core boost then save and exit..reboot to bios and still no way to set cpu multiplier.
> the clock settings, freq settings are all lock to default or auto.
> 
> i spent 150can on this board, 5 years ago i switched from using asus boards for my upgrades because of some direction from a friend and this m/b hits a wall with me.
> im going to end up eating it....metal for breakfast !!


I tried to follow those same instructions and I've had nothing but trouble stablizing my UD5 Rev 1 on anything other than a CPU multiplier OC. As it's now summer in Ohio, I've decided to settle running my 8120 at 3.8GHz and am not going to bother putting anymore money into my current build to upgrade the cooling setup (currently using a Corsair H80). At this point I'm saving up for an upgrade to either SB-E, IB-E or maybe waiting for Steamroller depending on what the reviews say about them once they launch and I can stay patient enough to wait until next Spring to do my next build. Either way though, I'm likely following in the same steps as Ozzy and going with an ASUS board next time.

In the mean time, I would recommend resetting the bios jumpers to default settings as it seems that you've not done it right if it's locking you out of manual changes in BIOS and then proceed from there.


----------



## RustySocket

jumper is open and the instuctions are clear....its gigabyte dammit..








Im going to go buy a asus board next weekend swap it out and see how it does.

any suggestions on a asus board?...sabertooth maybe?


----------



## dmfree88

so what is the actual difference between Ultra Durable 3 and Ultra Durable 4 boards? What makes it a 4 vs a 3?


----------



## RustySocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> so what is the actual difference between Ultra Durable 3 and Ultra Durable 4 boards? What makes it a 4 vs a 3?


more copper cooling something like 3oz of copper extra...


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RustySocket*
> 
> jumper is open and the instuctions are clear....its gigabyte dammit..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im going to go buy a asus board next weekend swap it out and see how it does.
> 
> any suggestions on a asus board?...sabertooth maybe?


The sabertooth isn't bad, but make sure it's a Gen 3 Rev 2.0. If you can spare the extra money, the people I've been talking to highly recommend the Crosshair Formula Z over the Sabertooth though, especially for overclocking. Yes it's the ROG board which is part of why you pay more, but those boards are designed with gaming and overclocking enthusiasts in mind. It's also much more friendly to CFx / SLI builds with 3-way compatibility and the standard 2 lot spacing for the PCIe 2.0 slots, as well as if you ever decide to go nuts with it, it's much easier to find watercooling blocks for it than any other 990FX board short of the UD7... Also part of the issue many out there take is the outdated and slow updating of firmware and BIOS for Gigabyte boards. Though ASUS seems to release new BIOS updates less often, they're usually much more up to date with CPU/GPU/SSD related firmware and drivers... IMHO, definitely a better buy than the Sabertooth, especially since it will only cost about $20 more (current lowest prices 214.99 on amazon, Sabertooth is 199.99 through newegg free shipping on both).


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> so what is the actual difference between Ultra Durable 3 and Ultra Durable 4 boards? What makes it a 4 vs a 3?


It's not just extra copper for the heatsinks, it's also higher quality capacitors, VRMs, etc throughout the board to improve power regulation, prevent from voltage surges, vdroop, etc.


----------



## darkelixa

In aus I can only buy the crosshair,90fx-ud3 or sabertooth rv2


----------



## darkelixa

What makes a higher priced motherboard of the sabertooth better than the gigabyte 990fx-ud3 revision 3?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> What makes a higher priced motherboard of the sabertooth better than the gigabyte 990fx-ud3 revision 3?


Well it has a few more features. However the most important thing it has over the UD3 Rev 3 is proper VRM cooling. The UD3 with FX 8 core CPU's has severe issues with the board warping and the CPU throttling due to the VRM's overheating. I spent the difference between the Sabertooth and the UD3 fixing the overheating issue and still don't have the extra features that the Sabertooth has. So if you are going to be running an 8 core CPU the Sabertooth is the better buy.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> What makes a higher priced motherboard of the sabertooth better than the gigabyte 990fx-ud3 revision 3?
> 
> 
> 
> Well it has a few more features. However the most important thing it has over the UD3 Rev 3 is proper VRM cooling. The UD3 with FX 8 core CPU's has severe issues with the board warping and the CPU throttling due to the VRM's overheating. I spent the difference between the Sabertooth and the UD3 fixing the overheating issue and still don't have the extra features that the Sabertooth has. So if you are going to be running an 8 core CPU the Sabertooth is the better buy.
Click to expand...

^^^ This,
I hav worked with both and reviewed the Sabertooth R2.0. really a remarkable board and I go into the features and build of the board rather extensively (especially the Power delivery design) such as E.S.P. and T-Topology as well as capacitance control and switching frequencies. if you want to have a look:

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/asus_sabertooth990fx_r2_review/



Hope that helps.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> ^^^ This,
> I hav worked with both and reviewed the Sabertooth R2.0. really a remarkable board and I go into the features and build of the board rather extensively (especially the Power delivery design) such as E.S.P. and T-Topology as well as capacitance control and switching frequencies. if you want to have a look:
> 
> http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/asus_sabertooth990fx_r2_review/
> 
> 
> 
> Hope that helps.


Does anyone know whether the UD5 Rev 3 boards have been fixed from the vrm issues? I haven't seen any indications they have or haven't. Any info would be great.

Thanks
Andrew


----------



## RustySocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Does anyone know whether the UD5 Rev 3 boards have been fixed from the vrm issues? I haven't seen any indications they have or haven't. Any info would be great.
> 
> Thanks
> Andrew


as far as i can see ud3 rev 4.0 has a heat tube connecting the heat sinks rev 1.0 1.1 and 3.0 are the same


----------



## miklkit

I believe that the VRM issue only troubles the UD3 boards. Those who moved up from UD3s to UD5s only complain about the bios. But they still get it working ok.


----------



## RustySocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I believe that the VRM issue only troubles the UD3 boards. Those who moved up from UD3s to UD5s only complain about the bios. But they still get it working ok.


i still cant unlock cpu multiplier the bios settings... no sabertooths on the shelf til next week









990fxa-ud3
fx8320
G.skill ddr3
650 watt psu
hd7770 1ghz edition.


----------



## miklkit

That is really strange because that is mostly what one would want to change. If I could do it anyone could, unless it is a defective bios.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I believe that the VRM issue only troubles the UD3 boards. Those who moved up from UD3s to UD5s only complain about the bios. But they still get it working ok.


I have the UD5 ver 1.0 and it def has some major vrm and vdroop issues. Hmmm maybe I just got a bad board.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RustySocket*
> 
> i still cant unlock cpu multiplier the bios settings... no sabertooths on the shelf til next week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 990fxa-ud3
> fx8320
> G.skill ddr3
> 650 watt psu
> hd7770 1ghz edition.


thats really weird, did you trying clearing CMOS just to see what would happen? I had some issues with mine the other day reporting 1.4v stock settings for the processor and it kept overvolting it to start. Seemed to fix my bios issue.

Anyways if that doesn't work I would recommend giving gigabyte a call. They might have some more solutions, They will probably suggest flashing the bios. Since you have dual bios maybe you should just do that anyways? re-flash/repair the bios it may fix everything? I dunno but I know you should be able to change all settings, even though the bios is a big thumbs down on features. It still should work.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> I have the UD5 ver 1.0 and it def has some major vrm and vdroop issues. Hmmm maybe I just got a bad board.


You should mess with the LLC. I have the exact same version of the ud5. I was unable to get vdroop steady until i set LLC to high. LLC on average or auto or low = bad vdroop. No matter what setting it seemed to have issues, but high llc spikes up during load, never decreases and the spike is very minimal (causes more power to go through cpu though). I dont know if this is possibly your issue aswell but I was having a HECK of a time with vdroop when i first got ud5 rev1.x aswell.

Also I added a fan to my VRM in order to keep the temps down, any small fan with some zip-ties or screwing directly into vrm's will work. Seems to have fixed my issues all around.


----------



## RustySocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> You should mess with the LLC. I have the exact same version of the ud5. I was unable to get vdroop steady until i set LLC to high. LLC on average or auto or low = bad vdroop. No matter what setting it seemed to have issues, but high llc spikes up during load, never decreases and the spike is very minimal (causes more power to go through cpu though). I dont know if this is possibly your issue aswell but I was having a HECK of a time with vdroop when i first got ud5 rev1.x aswell.
> 
> Also I added a fan to my VRM in order to keep the temps down, any small fan with some zip-ties or screwing directly into vrm's will work. Seems to have fixed my issues all around.


UPDATE: i finally was able to change bios setting for cpu multiplier. after about a dozen tries to disable core boost it has worked.
set it at 20 and is running at 4ghz

so now i am able to see the cpu throttling..from what ive been reading this is caused by the poor quality heat sinks on the vrm's.

i have a few fans in my old parts box..maybe i will try that as well.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RustySocket*
> 
> UPDATE: i finally was able to change bios setting for cpu multiplier. after about a dozen tries to disable core boost it has worked.
> set it at 20 and is running at 4ghz
> 
> so now i am able to see the cpu throttling..from what ive been reading this is caused by the poor quality heat sinks on the vrm's.
> 
> i have a few fans in my old parts box..maybe i will try that as well.


Yeah that seems to be the consensus. Everyone seems to come across that issue with the UD3, fan seems to save the day for most.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> You should mess with the LLC. I have the exact same version of the ud5. I was unable to get vdroop steady until i set LLC to high. LLC on average or auto or low = bad vdroop. No matter what setting it seemed to have issues, but high llc spikes up during load, never decreases and the spike is very minimal (causes more power to go through cpu though). I dont know if this is possibly your issue aswell but I was having a HECK of a time with vdroop when i first got ud5 rev1.x aswell.
> 
> Also I added a fan to my VRM in order to keep the temps down, any small fan with some zip-ties or screwing directly into vrm's will work. Seems to have fixed my issues all around.


Okay really quick question. I don't have LLC in my bios that I know of. I have searched for it everywhere unless they call it something else. I have bios F11 and I swear I don't have LLC anywhere in that bios. Could you hold my hand for just a second tell me where it is? It would be greaty appreciated.









Thanks
Andrew


----------



## RustySocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Okay really quick question. I don't have LLC in my bios that I know of. I have searched for it everywhere unless they call it something else. I have bios F11 and I swear I don't have LLC anywhere in that bios. Could you hold my hand for just a second tell me where it is? It would be greaty appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Andrew


i did read in this forum somewhere that its called something else....i cant remember and thats not helpful i know but....it might be called HPC now that locks the multiplier and voltage ????

i have rev ud3 rev 3.0 and its not in my bios either..well listed as llc anyways.......


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Okay really quick question. I don't have LLC in my bios that I know of. I have searched for it everywhere unless they call it something else. I have bios F11 and I swear I don't have LLC anywhere in that bios. Could you hold my hand for just a second tell me where it is? It would be greaty appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Andrew


its the very first selection in the advanced bios features page i think, i cant check right now im working xD


----------



## mayford5

No worries. I'll have to look very hard.


----------



## dmfree88

should say load line control in advanced bios features first setting:


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> should say load line control in advanced bios features first setting:


Mine starts at the AMD C1E support. Do you have to enable all of those in order for it to show up?


----------



## dmfree88

as far as i know no, thats strange that its not there. I have the exact same bios revision and everything, I dont know why yours isnt showing it. All of those shown in the picture in the red should be disabled.. except for on mine theres no cpu core unlock it just says cpu cores, and i put that to AUTO, i had it set to all cores enabled and it caused issues, id recommend keeping this to auto, but the rest should be disabled for OC'ing.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Okay really quick question. I don't have LLC in my bios that I know of. I have searched for it everywhere unless they call it something else. I have bios F11 and I swear I don't have LLC anywhere in that bios. Could you hold my hand for just a second tell me where it is? It would be greaty appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> Andrew


Only rev 1.1 and higher have LLC.


----------



## dmfree88

ohhh my bad i must be rev 1.1, i thought they were all the same in the 1.x category. thats too bad, id send it in for RMA for unstable vcore they will probably just send new rev.


----------



## mayford5

Can you do that? Have had it for a couple years now. Not sure how long the warranty was. I wonder if it will work? Worst they can say is no.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Can you do that? Have had it for a couple years now. Not sure how long the warranty was. I wonder if it will work? Worst they can say is no.


If its unable to stay stable then its not functioning. throw a big enough fit and they will give it to you. i believe gigabyte gives 3 year warrantys on any board made after like 2009 or something. you should be good to go.. probably can do the same.. just call and tell them you have been having horrible problems since day one with keeping vcore stable and it causes programs to crash etc (which it usually does when vcore isnt atleast reasonably stable). I am sure they will replace it. Especially since they have made new revisions. They already know theres issues and thats why the revisions have been made, they shoot themselves in the foot making new versions gives you proof that yours has a problem lol


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> ohhh my bad i must be rev 1.1, i thought they were all the same in the 1.x category. thats too bad, id send it in for RMA for unstable vcore they will probably just send new rev.


gigabyte will actually repair your board, if they can.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> ohhh my bad i must be rev 1.1, i thought they were all the same in the 1.x category. thats too bad, id send it in for RMA for unstable vcore they will probably just send new rev.


They don't do revision swaps, you'll get the same revision you send in for RMA. Or at least that's what I was told in a 45 second phone call to their RMA rep.

On a personal note, my board is getting worse with age as it is now messing with the frequency. When I play games the frequency will drop to 3.8, which I could understand because of the heat issues on the board but it will sometimes for no reason boost the frequency the highest that got recorded was 4.4GHz(Scratch that 4.7GHz). I have my board set to 4.2GHz which it should be able to handle, considering my games rarely ever use 8 cores at full load, I don't think I even own a game that does unless I use a command to set it too.

I don't know if this is an issue with my monitoring software or an issue with the hardware, I've never seen this on the monitoring software before and I've been using it for a while so I'll have to get a few other programs running and see if they record the same dips and spikes. Actually the temps were right at the point I would expect the throttling but I don't know where the hell this higher clock is coming from.


----------



## hajnalka

room temp 30C pump watercool go to max 4000rpm water temp 38,7C WRM temp 61C 4840Mhz run 24h nonstop.


----------



## robcowboy73

Hi guys I have just got the 990FXA-UD3 rev 3 and have been in two minds on the PCU . what is better for the board a 6 core or the 8 core it will be water cooled and I am hoping to find a block for the VRM as they get a bit hot . I had a sabertooth and it died on me and got fed up with being fob off by asus so I have given this a try. please all advice welcome on the best PCU this mobo


----------



## RustySocket

@robcowboy for little extra get a 8core....why not. Maybe go with the fx8350. I have a 8320 and a 6120 both run at 3.5ghz I can't tell the difference until I open sisoft sandra


----------



## miklkit

Watercooling? Hajnalka watercooled his VRMs.

The best VRM air cooler I have used is the ThermalRight HR-09U type2. It is a high rise heat pipe type and made a 5C difference over the Enzotech mst88 it replaced. And put a fan on it!!!

Since you want to go full watercooling you might be able to use an 8350, but the main thing is to cool those VRMs.


----------



## robcowboy73

I have a 8320 chip spare from the sabertooth I am just hoping is not fit for the bin as it was the VRM that fried not my fault the clip holding the heat sink down broke and came off that was all air cooled
Thank's for that I will get a fan over the VRM until I have all the bits for the loop


----------



## rabe

Hi all!

I was told to post here with my problem with my GA-990FXA-UD3. I originally posted it here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1413564/having-trouble-with-ga-990fxa-ud3-overclock#post_20495539

But to sum it up, when i run tests on my OC, FX-8350 @ 4.5Ghz - vcore and the speed will drop. it'll do this with increasing frequency as the test goes on

miklkit was nice enough to point out that it was my VRMs overheating and that I should get a fan on them. Well, I have a Corsair h80i installed and it is in the way of putting a fan directly over the VRMs.

I was hoping someone here may be able to offer some suggestions as to cooling these VRMs with my setup

My equipment is

1. Corsair 300R case
2. GA-990FXA-UD3 MB
3. FX-8350 4.0 GHz proc OC'd to 4.5GHz (trying)
4. Corsair h80i with radiator mounted on case rear panel
5. Corsair CX750M PS mounted bottom of case
6. 120 mm fan mounted front of case
7. 120 mm fan jammed above radiator blowing down to give air across the VRMs (this was just done to see what happens)


----------



## hajnalka

Update watercooling 990fxa-ud3 rev3

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53EbVh9VrOU

New Aquacomputer Filter with stainless steel mesh, ball valves and mounting plate G1/4+ new pump top and reservoir EK Water Blocks EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ new liquid water Innovatek Protect IP + new tubing PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 13/10 mm


----------



## hajnalka

I use 8350 4840Mhz


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabe*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I was told to post here with my problem with my GA-990FXA-UD3. I originally posted it here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1413564/having-trouble-with-ga-990fxa-ud3-overclock#post_20495539
> 
> But to sum it up, when i run tests on my OC, FX-8350 @ 4.5Ghz - vcore and the speed will drop. it'll do this with increasing frequency as the test goes on
> 
> miklkit was nice enough to point out that it was my VRMs overheating and that I should get a fan on them. Well, I have a Corsair h80i installed and it is in the way of putting a fan directly over the VRMs.
> 
> I was hoping someone here may be able to offer some suggestions as to cooling these VRMs with my setup
> 
> My equipment is
> 
> 1. Corsair 300R case
> 2. GA-990FXA-UD3 MB
> 3. FX-8350 4.0 GHz proc OC'd to 4.5GHz (trying)
> 4. Corsair h80i with radiator mounted on case rear panel
> 5. Corsair CX750M PS mounted bottom of case
> 6. 120 mm fan mounted front of case
> 7. 120 mm fan jammed above radiator blowing down to give air across the VRMs (this was just done to see what happens)


Id probably go with a smaller fan if you can fit it. Even a 60mm or something? Maybe make a fake cut-out of the same size to see if it will fit before you buy a fan. But a smaller fan should fit hopefully?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabe*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I was told to post here with my problem with my GA-990FXA-UD3. I originally posted it here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1413564/having-trouble-with-ga-990fxa-ud3-overclock#post_20495539
> 
> But to sum it up, when i run tests on my OC, FX-8350 @ 4.5Ghz - vcore and the speed will drop. it'll do this with increasing frequency as the test goes on
> 
> miklkit was nice enough to point out that it was my VRMs overheating and that I should get a fan on them. Well, I have a Corsair h80i installed and it is in the way of putting a fan directly over the VRMs.
> 
> I was hoping someone here may be able to offer some suggestions as to cooling these VRMs with my setup
> 
> My equipment is
> 
> 1. Corsair 300R case
> 2. GA-990FXA-UD3 MB
> 3. FX-8350 4.0 GHz proc OC'd to 4.5GHz (trying)
> 4. Corsair h80i with radiator mounted on case rear panel
> 5. Corsair CX750M PS mounted bottom of case
> 6. 120 mm fan mounted front of case
> 7. 120 mm fan jammed above radiator blowing down to give air across the VRMs (this was just done to see what happens)


80mm fans fit well over the VRM heatsinks on the UD series
I have a 80mm over mine and it is heavily OC'd. The VRM/NB heatsink gets tepid at best. My NB never touches 40c and the VRM'[s run about the same.
This fan is a Xigmetek and is less than 20dB at 2500 RPM BTW


----------



## rabe

Well, I bought three more fans, 2x 120mm rocketfish (which one is broke only going to 600 rpm or so) also, an 80 mm which will not fit between the back panel usb ports and the cpu block. not a big deal really. the bad part is that i had to relocate the radiator to the front of the system and the cpu temps are much higher now. and they bounce around while idling - 19c to 31c


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 80mm fans fit well over the VRM heatsinks on the UD series
> I have a 80mm over mine and it is heavily OC'd. The VRM/NB heatsink gets tepid at best. My NB never touches 40c and the VRM'[s run about the same.
> This fan is a Xigmetek and is less than 20dB at 2500 RPM BTW


I used to use a fan on my VRM/Northbridge. Same 80mm size, different brand fan though. Worked well. However when I sent my motherboard back to gigabyte for repair (Lan went out) When i received it back The VRMS actually run cool now. Not sure what they did, but what ever they did, i have no need for a fan on my VRM's anymore.

I'm not complaining. Also noticed i get more vdroop now, than i did before, but system is sitll stable at 5ghz with 1.525 volts set in bios.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Update watercooling 990fxa-ud3 rev3
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53EbVh9VrOU
> 
> New Aquacomputer Filter with stainless steel mesh, ball valves and mounting plate G1/4+ new pump top and reservoir EK Water Blocks EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ new liquid water Innovatek Protect IP + new tubing PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 13/10 mm


What water blocks are you using on the VRM and northbridge?


----------



## RustySocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rabe*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I was told to post here with my problem with my GA-990FXA-UD3. I originally posted it here. http://www.overclock.net/t/1413564/having-trouble-with-ga-990fxa-ud3-overclock#post_20495539
> 
> But to sum it up, when i run tests on my OC, FX-8350 @ 4.5Ghz - vcore and the speed will drop. it'll do this with increasing frequency as the test goes on
> 
> miklkit was nice enough to point out that it was my VRMs overheating and that I should get a fan on them. Well, I have a Corsair h80i installed and it is in the way of putting a fan directly over the VRMs.
> 
> I was hoping someone here may be able to offer some suggestions as to cooling these VRMs with my setup
> 
> My equipment is
> 
> 1. Corsair 300R case
> 2. GA-990FXA-UD3 MB
> 3. FX-8350 4.0 GHz proc OC'd to 4.5GHz (trying)
> 4. Corsair h80i with radiator mounted on case rear panel
> 5. Corsair CX750M PS mounted bottom of case
> 6. 120 mm fan mounted front of case
> 7. 120 mm fan jammed above radiator blowing down to give air across the VRMs (this was just done to see what happens)


this is the right thread , i have the same setup ud3 rev 3.0 bios ver. FC
i left mine at 4.4 with Vcore LLC set to high the cpu dosent thottle now


----------



## rabe

Thanks everyone... What I ended up doing is removing the back fan, taking a twist tie and position the 80mm over the VRMs. They are cool enough to touch under heavy load now.

I ran a 10 minute test and everything went fine at 4.5Ghz and -.050v on the vcore) I am going to run an a hour test and see what happens.

Temps were okay, in the low 50s, but I think this block on the corsair h80i leaves a lot to be desired. I will clean it up again this week and reapply my arctic silver and see if I cant shave a couple degrees off. Maybe look into a different water kit.


----------



## RustySocket

Good news...tbh I almost ditched this m/b. But this thread helped.


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Update watercooling 990fxa-ud3 rev3
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53EbVh9VrOU
> 
> New Aquacomputer Filter with stainless steel mesh, ball valves and mounting plate G1/4+ new pump top and reservoir EK Water Blocks EK-DDC X-RES 140 CSQ new liquid water Innovatek Protect IP + new tubing PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 13/10 mm


? I cant see the VRM block very well can you tell me what it is and what are the temp your getting with it


----------



## 0S1R1S

So I just found this post after about 2 weeks of owning and trying to OC the UD3.
I got to 4.5Ghz @ 1.332v, but under load my vcore will start to drop to 0.888v (1.44Ghz)
I understand the issue is the NB MOSFET getting too hot and throttling the CPU.
I'm fairly new to OC'ing, and after finding this thread I am scared to fry my UD3/CPU.
So with that said, I am still able to RMA my Rev.3 UD3 and buy a UD5. Is it worth it?


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0S1R1S*
> 
> So I just found this post after about 2 weeks of owning and trying to OC the UD3.
> I got to 4.5Ghz @ 1.332v, but under load my vcore will start to drop to 0.888v (1.44Ghz)
> I understand the issue is the NB MOSFET getting too hot and throttling the CPU.
> I'm fairly new to OC'ing, and after finding this thread I am scared to fry my UD3/CPU.
> So with that said, I am still able to RMA my Rev.3 UD3 and buy a UD5. Is it worth it?


In a word....... yes.







Love my UD5.


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> In a word....... yes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Love my UD5.


So no one has these VRM overheating / vcore throttling issues with the UD5 then, correct? I'm not looking to set OC records, I just want a stable 4.5-4.6Ghz with no overheating components or warped boards in the end.


----------



## miklkit

Go for it. The UD5 or equal from any other manufacturer should be good to go.

Or you can stick with the UD3 and spend money and time on waterblocks and fans trying to keep it alive.


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Go for it. The UD5 or equal from any other manufacturer should be good to go.
> 
> Or you can stick with the UD3 and spend money and time on waterblocks and fans trying to keep it alive.


I suppose. But I just built this system, so I don't feel like 'making it work' when it just should. I know its not hard to strap another fan in the case, but that just sounds like a shoddy fix. I can see if I had this board awhile, but it's brand new and it seems everyone is having this issue. So I might as well RMA it while I still can.


----------



## miklkit

I have $220 USD in my UD3 and Gigabyte has it on RMA now and is saying there is nothing wrong with it.


----------



## robcowboy73

With the over heating problem on the UD3 you can get an upgrade heat sink for very little cash
Thermalright HR-09U MOSFET heat pipe cooler

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=Thermalright+HR-09U+MOSFET+heatpipe+cooler&_sacat=0&_from=R40

this is a link to the part if you are in uk if it helps


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> With the over heating problem on the UD3 you can get an upgrade heat sink for very little cash
> Thermalright HR-09U MOSFET heat pipe cooler
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0&_nkw=Thermalright+HR-09U+MOSFET+heatpipe+cooler&_sacat=0&_from=R40
> 
> this is a link to the part if you are in uk if it helps


Thanks for the info/link. Seems like a cheap alternative to buying the new board, but I am still within Newegg's RMA timeline. So no sense in altering something I can just boot back to Newegg. Plus, I literally just ordered the UD5. Should be here by Wednesday.







Hopefully I can achieve 4.5-4.6Ghz with heat issues or vcore drops.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0S1R1S*
> 
> Thanks for the info/link. Seems like a cheap alternative to buying the new board, but I am still within Newegg's RMA timeline. So no sense in altering something I can just boot back to Newegg. Plus, I literally just ordered the UD5. Should be here by Wednesday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I can achieve 4.5-4.6Ghz with heat issues or vcore drops.


You should be happy with it, I have been pretty happy with mine and its only rev 1.x. Dont have a good cooler to test its full potential but It has been pretty good. Hopefully you get lucky and get the new revision, if you do you should have even more protection from problems







.


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> You should be happy with it, I have been pretty happy with mine and its only rev 1.x. Dont have a good cooler to test its full potential but It has been pretty good. Hopefully you get lucky and get the new revision, if you do you should have even more protection from problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Is this a problem with the UD5 1.x boards too? Doesn't say anything on Newegg about the Rev, but the color scheme suggests its still 1.x.


----------



## dmfree88

I think newegg already moved on to the newer rev, but if it is 1.x i havent had any problems with it. I was having issue while undervolting the cpu at higher clocks, but now i seem to be fine. P95 / IBT AVX stable 4.3ghz with a crappy hyper 212 evo. I was OCCT stable at 4.5ghz but that was when I was having issues, OCCT just didnt push the right buttons







. I am happy with mine but I think I got the last ones they sold of the rev 1.x so either way I dont think you will be diss-appointed.

Also no revving issues with the ud5 that i have heard at all


----------



## robcowboy73

mmmm dos this issue while under volting affect the UD3 rev 3 board. I now it did affect the UD5 and 7 but they clam to have fix it
can some one please tell me the part number for the EK VRM block for UD3 board . I kan only find it as part of a mobo kit on there site. I now the south bridge block won't fit. if only they listed the different blocks in the kits then we can pick and chows the ones we want . I don't mind a different brand as long as it works


----------



## dmfree88

It was just unstable. adding more voltage fixed it but my cooler couldn't handle it. I am sure I wont have any more issues once I get a better cooler getting a higher clock. I dont think there was a problem with the motherboard itself, i think I was the problem. Just needed to up the voltage and it couldnt handle it due to the crappy cooler.

Also I have heard the UD3 rev4 is out now if you can get ahold of that one you would probably be much happier:
http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#ov

I am not sure about rev3 though


----------



## InsaneCB

Hey guys, one question: Where I connect my SSD drive, on a sata (SB950) or Gsata (marvell) port ??
I understand that gsata is controled by marvell chip, but don't know which is better of both (SB950 or marvell)...

Thanks a lot !!


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsaneCB*
> 
> Hey guys, one question: Where I connect my SSD drive, on a sata (SB950) or Gsata (marvell) port ??
> I understand that gsata is controled by marvell chip, but don't know which is better of both (SB950 or marvell)...
> 
> Thanks a lot !!


You will want to use the sata ports, Gsata is more likely to have driver issues with newer SSD.

Also should check for driver updates, always important when using SSD


----------



## dmfree88

Does anyone know if I am going to have trouble with my ram clearance? I am thinking about getting a noctua nh-d14, Currently using the 990fxa-ud5 rev 1.x, and using g skill rip jaws f3-12800cl9-4gbrl. The ram is already having trouble clearing my hyper 212 evo's fan, have to jam it in there all crooked or pull the ram stick to install the fan, Also already not using the first slot. Am I going to run into more/worse issues with the nh-d14?


----------



## ffhounddog

i just upgraded to the 990fxa-uda3 v3 today. Got it at a microcenter for a decent price matched it with a 8350 and crucial ballistx 2x4gb sticks. granted I need to take the ram back on stick is bad but now trying to get the drives correct is the issue. It always wants to boot off of the storage drive vice the other hdd that has win 7 on it. Any ideas?


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Anyone knows when there will be a release for the new bios for the ud5 rev 3?


----------



## noobdown

Use cpu-z to find out what bios you are running.
http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html

once the program is running, goto the mainboard tab, look for bios . In that section. look beside version.


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffhounddog*
> 
> i just upgraded to the 990fxa-uda3 v3 today. Got it at a microcenter for a decent price matched it with a 8350 and crucial ballistx 2x4gb sticks. granted I need to take the ram back on stick is bad but now trying to get the drives correct is the issue. It always wants to boot off of the storage drive vice the other hdd that has win 7 on it. Any ideas?


in the bios, change the boot order to the drive with the os to boot first.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> mmmm dos this issue while under volting affect the UD3 rev 3 board. I now it did affect the UD5 and 7 but they clam to have fix it
> can some one please tell me the part number for the EK VRM block for UD3 board . I kan only find it as part of a mobo kit on there site. I now the south bridge block won't fit. if only they listed the different blocks in the kits then we can pick and chows the ones we want . I don't mind a different brand as long as it works


I just woke up and am probably mis reading your post. Do you want to replace your stock UD3 cooler?

If so, I have been there done that. The Enzotech MST-88 is exactly the same size and bolts right in. Use number 4 nuts and bolts.

I replaced the Enzotech with a Thermalright HR-09U type 2, which gave a 5C improvement. It is slightly longer so does not fit perfectly. I added number 6 plastic washers to the number 4 nuts and bolt and washers and it worked fine. One guy epoxyed his in, and another guy used zip ties. Any of these coolers also needs a fan on it.

ffhoundog: Try switching the sata cords at the motherboard or the hard drives. I had the same issue and just swapped the sata cables around. That bios is useless, as is the rest of that board.


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0S1R1S*
> 
> So I just found this post after about 2 weeks of owning and trying to OC the UD3.
> I got to 4.5Ghz @ 1.332v, but under load my vcore will start to drop to 0.888v (1.44Ghz)
> I understand the issue is the NB MOSFET getting too hot and throttling the CPU.
> I'm fairly new to OC'ing, and after finding this thread I am scared to fry my UD3/CPU.
> So with that said, I am still able to RMA my Rev.3 UD3 and buy a UD5. Is it worth it?


Enable hpc mode in bios to stop the throttling.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> Enable hpc mode in bios to stop the throttling.


What does"hpc" stand for and what does it do? If you see my rig, should i enable it? Im running fine as it is, but could hpc help me oc higher or with less vcore maybe?


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> Enable hpc mode in bios to stop the throttling.


I have tried HPC enabled vs disabled, plus I have disabled Turbo, C1E, CnQ, SVM, C6 and messed with LLC settings from Regular to Ultra. And always after 1 successful pass in Prime the, the vcore begins to fluctuate between the 1.332v and 0.888v every 3-4 seconds. LLC was limiting the amount of fluctuation a little at first. but did not stop it from dropping to 0.888v (7x - 1.4Ghz) in a few minutes.


----------



## ffhounddog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> in the bios, change the boot order to the drive with the os to boot first.


I tried that but the UEFI is stuck on the 250gb drive as the boot drive. THe 320gb drive that is primary is never being able to save. I will have to play with it when I get home.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0S1R1S*
> 
> I have tried HPC enabled vs disabled, plus I have disabled Turbo, C1E, CnQ, SVM, C6 and messed with LLC settings from Regular to Ultra. And always after 1 successful pass in Prime the, the vcore begins to fluctuate between the 1.332v and 0.888v every 3-4 seconds. LLC was limiting the amount of fluctuation a little at first. but did not stop it from dropping to 0.888v (7x - 1.4Ghz) in a few minutes.


Are you sure you have your motherboards latest bios?


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Are you sure you have your motherboards latest bios?


Yes - FC. Is this mobo just bunk? Everyone is giving me pretty good advice around forums, but nothing helps. I get 0.888v drops with no OC @ 4.0ghz.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I replaced the Enzotech with a Thermalright HR-09U type 2, which gave a 5C improvement. It is slightly longer so does not fit perfectly. I added number 6 plastic washers to the number 4 nuts and bolt and washers and it worked fine. One guy epoxyed his in, and another guy used zip ties. Any of these coolers also needs a fan on it.


I replaced the zip ties with a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum stock and drilled some holes on the ends. It on there pretty snug now. I don't seem to need a fan on mine but I'm only running my 8350 @ 4300 right now.
[IMG alt="Thermalright HR-09U heatsink bolted down with a narrow 1/8" aluminum stock with a couple of holes drilled in."]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1587326/width/350/height/700/flags/LL[/IMG]


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0S1R1S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> Enable hpc mode in bios to stop the throttling.
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried HPC enabled vs disabled, plus I have disabled Turbo, C1E, CnQ, SVM, C6 and messed with LLC settings from Regular to Ultra. And always after 1 successful pass in Prime the, the vcore begins to fluctuate between the 1.332v and 0.888v every 3-4 seconds. LLC was limiting the amount of fluctuation a little at first. but did not stop it from dropping to 0.888v (7x - 1.4Ghz) in a few minutes.
Click to expand...

What cooler are you using?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffhounddog*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> in the bios, change the boot order to the drive with the os to boot first.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried that but the UEFI is stuck on the 250gb drive as the boot drive. THe 320gb drive that is primary is never being able to save. I will have to play with it when I get home.
Click to expand...

Did you try changing sata ports with the 2 hard drives?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0S1R1S*
> 
> Yes - FC. Is this mobo just bunk? Everyone is giving me pretty good advice around forums, but nothing helps. I get 0.888v drops with no OC @ 4.0ghz.


Thats some MAJOR Vdroop. I dont think LLC can save that. You must have some other sort of problem. Hard to decipher but it could be PSU (easy to see if your rails are droppping volts at the same time), or the processor or mobo. I dont think you are having a settings issue. Seems too much for it to drop.

I was having trouble where my mobo would beep loudly and drop voltage, this happened due to under-volting the cpu but it only happened during a specific temperature (weird so I doubt this is your problem)

I dont know which rev your using but i would call gigabyte and get some advice from a tech. see what they say?


----------



## ffhounddog

I did but I will try again when I get home. I might have switched the wrong one at 10pm last night working on why the computer did not start. (bad memory module from crucial)


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I just woke up and am probably mis reading your post. Do you want to replace your stock UD3 cooler?
> 
> If so, I have been there done that. The Enzotech MST-88 is exactly the same size and bolts right in. Use number 4 nuts and bolts.
> 
> I replaced the Enzotech with a Thermalright HR-09U type 2, which gave a 5C improvement. It is slightly longer so does not fit perfectly. I added number 6 plastic washers to the number 4 nuts and bolt and washers and it worked fine. One guy epoxyed his in, and another guy used zip ties. Any of these coolers also needs a fan on it.
> 
> ffhoundog: Try switching the sata cords at the motherboard or the hard drives. I had the same issue and just swapped the sata cables around. That bios is useless, as is the rest of that board.


I am trying to find out what ek water block are used on the VRM as every time I try I end up on the page with mobo full kits I am just want the one block


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Thats some MAJOR Vdroop. I dont think LLC can save that. You must have some other sort of problem. Hard to decipher but it could be PSU (easy to see if your rails are droppping volts at the same time), or the processor or mobo. I dont think you are having a settings issue. Seems too much for it to drop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> What cooler are you using?


Corsair H60 (2nd Gen) with 2 SP120 High Performance fans in push/pull.
My CPU temp has never exceeded 53-55C even when stressing @ 4.5Ghz.

*General Specs - Everything is brand new:*
- AMD FX-8350 @ 4.0GHz
- GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (FC)
- Corsair H60 Liquid Cooler w/ 2 SP120's
- Corsair TX650w Enthusiast Series
- EVGA Geforce GTX 770 SC ACX
- Samsung 840 PRO 128GB SSD

Edit: I just ran Prime for 6-7 minutes for a quick example of the vcore drop. Can anyone look and see if anything else seems off? Would appreciate it.


----------



## vipirius

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0S1R1S*
> 
> Corsair H60 (2nd Gen) with 2 SP120 High Performance fans in push/pull.
> My CPU temp has never exceeded 53-55C even when stressing @ 4.5Ghz.
> 
> *General Specs - Everything is brand new:*
> - AMD FX-8350 @ 4.0GHz
> - GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (FC)
> - Corsair H60 Liquid Cooler w/ 2 SP120's
> - Corsair TX650w Enthusiast Series
> - EVGA Geforce GTX 770 SC ACX
> - Samsung 840 PRO 128GB SSD
> 
> Edit: I just ran Prime for 6-7 minutes for a quick example of the vcore drop. Can anyone look and see if anything else seems off? Would appreciate it.


Hi. I have the same problem where my 8320 @4.0GHz/1.313V will fluctuate to 2.4GHz/0.8V under load. I was told it's because the VRM's have crappy cooling and they can't handle the load an overclocked 8 core beast put's on them. You can try placing a fan on it, 60 or 80mm should do.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *0S1R1S*
> 
> Corsair H60 (2nd Gen) with 2 SP120 High Performance fans in push/pull.
> My CPU temp has never exceeded 53-55C even when stressing @ 4.5Ghz.
> 
> *General Specs - Everything is brand new:*
> - AMD FX-8350 @ 4.0GHz
> - GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (FC)
> - Corsair H60 Liquid Cooler w/ 2 SP120's
> - Corsair TX650w Enthusiast Series
> - EVGA Geforce GTX 770 SC ACX
> - Samsung 840 PRO 128GB SSD
> 
> Edit: I just ran Prime for 6-7 minutes for a quick example of the vcore drop. Can anyone look and see if anything else seems off? Would appreciate it.


It's the board, UD3 Rev. 3 is a big pile of crap. You can like I do get throttling at stock settings, if you have a spare fan put it on top of the VRM heat sink, that seems to help most people. Pretty much all you can do is upgrade your cooling on the board or get a new board because there is no other fix, Gigabyte has screwed everyone over with that board.

Since you say everything is brand new, I STRONGLY advise you to return that board and buy a better one because this board isn't worth the time and Gigabyte will not help you.

Edit: This goes for anyone who just bought that board, I'm dead serious if you can, get rid of it.


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vipirius*
> 
> Hi. I have the same problem where my 8320 @4.0GHz/1.313V will fluctuate to 2.4GHz/0.8V under load. I was told it's because the VRM's have crappy cooling and they can't handle the load an overclocked 8 core beast put's on them. You can try placing a fan on it, 60 or 80mm should do.


That seems to be the issue and fix that everyone is agreeing on here.. I guess it doesn't matter much now, as I already ordered the UD5 to replace this. But I was just hoping it was something obvious or simple like a wrong setting. Seems pretty *****ty the board can't even handle the out of box speed.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Does anyone know if I am going to have trouble with my ram clearance? I am thinking about getting a noctua nh-d14, Currently using the 990fxa-ud5 rev 1.x, and using g skill rip jaws f3-12800cl9-4gbrl. The ram is already having trouble clearing my hyper 212 evo's fan, have to jam it in there all crooked or pull the ram stick to install the fan, Also already not using the first slot. Am I going to run into more/worse issues with the nh-d14?


bump


----------



## Blackops_2

Just ordered a UD3 from the Egg is there any chance i'll get a revision 4 or are they not in stores yet?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

All of you new guys having issues with throttling ie, VCORE dropping to .8v and clock speeds dropping with it. Start on this page and start reading http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5090 . I documented what is wrong and how to fix it. I would however just take that garbage board back to where you bought it from and get something different. Spend the extra 40 bucks on the Sabertooth because you are going to be spending that money anyways to fix this heap of crap.


----------



## mayford5

Currently in "Negotiations" with Gigabyte about my UD5. Either this guy doesn't know the difference between a cpu and a memory stick or they have told their support techs to play dumb.


----------



## miklkit

robcowboy73: I did misunderstand. You are looking for a water block. I think Hajnalka got the complete kit.

dmfree88: The D14 clears standard ram and some hi rise ram. Read the 1st page of this thread. It is possible to mount the front fan on the rear too.
http://www.overclock.net/t/628569/official-noctua-nh-d14-club

At the risk of seeming egotistical, I got a ton of information in this thread. Check out all the links.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1413006/mid-size-coolers

And yes people, do listen to the Ozzynator.


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> You should be happy with it, I have been pretty happy with mine and its only rev 1.x. Dont have a good cooler to test its full potential but It has been pretty good. Hopefully you get lucky and get the new revision, if you do you should have even more protection from problems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


UD5 board came this morning.. Got the Rev 3.0. Anyone else have the new rev? Thoughts?


----------



## ebduncan

nope good luck with it though.

I hope someone gets a rev 4.0 ud3 board soon, and reports back with it.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Currently in "Negotiations" with Gigabyte about my UD5. Either this guy doesn't know the difference between a cpu and a memory stick or they have told their support techs to play dumb.


From my and others experiences with Gigabyte tech I'm not sure myself. I would like to think that their support techs are actually knowledgeable or at least know BASIC computer stuff, I don't think a proper business would troll its own customers that hard, however they have been anything but helpful.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> nope good luck with it though.
> 
> I hope someone gets a rev 4.0 ud3 board soon, and reports back with it.


Mine will be in friday i emailed newegg to check and they said they can't guarantee anything but that they usually sell out their stock pretty fast so i should get the latest revision.

"We actually can't guarantee a specific revision of an item, unless we note it on our item description page. However, we sell our inventory really fast, so you should almost always get the latest version of an item. "

Hoping it's Rev 4.0


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Currently in "Negotiations" with Gigabyte about my UD5. Either this guy doesn't know the difference between a cpu and a memory stick or they have told their support techs to play dumb.


It's Gigabyte, they don't care about your problem and even when they do they stop caring 5 minutes later. Really a shame but their "support" is about as crappy as it gets.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> From my and others experiences with Gigabyte tech I'm not sure myself. I would like to think that their support techs are actually knowledgeable or at least know BASIC computer stuff, I don't think a proper business would troll its own customers that hard, however they have been anything but helpful.


Yeah...I'm pretty sure they have some knowledgeable people somewhere but I don't think they are anywhere near their support section. I think we can say with 100% certainty they have terrible support and you can get more help from a guy down the street then from someone paid to help by Gigabyte.


----------



## miklkit

Hey, they are looking out for their company. With my RMA they are saying that it works perfectly at stock settings and that the warpage is negligable and could be caused by that big heavy Arctic A30 CPU HSF hanging off it. Lawyerspeak all the way.









So I'll probably be getting the same board back. It should be able to handle a 4XXX cpu, so I'll build something up for one of the grandchildren.


----------



## vonss

I want to replace the stock HS on the NB, since the stock one is missing almost half of the mass for a hypothetical card that no one in their right mind will put in the PCIEX1_1.

So, can I get some models/links with after-market HS's for the UD3 NB HS? Thanks in advance.


----------



## robcowboy73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> robcowboy73: I did misunderstand. You are looking for a water block. I think Hajnalka got the complete kit.
> 
> I have tried to find ( Hajnalka ) I don't now the site can you please send a link as I got no wear with Google


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> robcowboy73: I did misunderstand. You are looking for a water block. I think Hajnalka got the complete kit.
> 
> I have tried to find ( Hajnalka ) I don't now the site can you please send a link as I got no wear with Google
> 
> 
> 
> Hajnalka is a poster here who water cooled his UD3. Maybe he can help you out.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/6350#post_20496823
Click to expand...


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I want to replace the stock HS on the NB, since the stock one is missing almost half of the mass for a hypothetical card that no one in their right mind will put in the PCIEX1_1.
> 
> So, can I get some models/links with after-market HS's for the UD3 NB HS? Thanks in advance.


you can get a pciex1 extender, thats what most had to do to fit something in there.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

I have the ud5 rev 3 board and im wondering, in hwinfo64 it says im running my northbridge at 1800mhz and cpuid it says 2367mhz. Wich one is correct you think? In bios the NB is set to 1800mhz cause of oc´d fsb to 263!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hey, they are looking out for their company. With my RMA they are saying that it works perfectly at stock settings and that the warpage is negligable and could be caused by that big heavy Arctic A30 CPU HSF hanging off it. Lawyerspeak all the way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I'll probably be getting the same board back. It should be able to handle a 4XXX cpu, so I'll build something up for one of the grandchildren.


I'm sure my vrm warpage is caused by my little water block over CPU too lol

They are such a terrible company. I hope to see them die a slow death.


----------



## Recursion

The Asus sabertooth isn't bad but I'm happy to have the ud3 and fx-4170. it's cheap, fast and works. You should update to the beta bios. it solved some weird weirdissue with windows 8 and the new metro gui.


----------



## Pudfark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> All of you new guys having issues with throttling ie, VCORE dropping to .8v and clock speeds dropping with it. Start on this page and start reading http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5090 . I documented what is wrong and how to fix it. I would however just take that garbage board back to where you bought it from and get something different. Spend the extra 40 bucks on the Sabertooth because you are going to be spending that money anyways to fix this heap of crap.


Everything the "OzzyNator" says is true. Based upon his results and discoveries on the UD3 board....I quit my UD3 rev. 1.1 My board warped just like his and it only took about a month of it running my Amd 8350 @ 4.6ghz to do it. Once your board is warped, there is not a whole lot you can do with it, other than what Ozzy has done and written on this forum. I'm not as adventurous as the great "Ozz". So I bought a Asus Sabertooth R2 board a couple of months ago. Heat on the VRM's is no problem with the Sabertooth board. I could not be happier or more satisfied. My VRM's are cooled on the front side by an Antec Spot Fan and on the back side of the board with an 80mm fan. Life is good. I'm very sorry that y'all are still going through this VRM issue. I know some cannot afford the change to something better in the board department. My suggestion is to keep all of your overclocking to a minimum and closely moniter your VRM temps or you will certainly end up with a warped board. Note: My advice and experience only concerns the 8 core AMD CPU's.

Best of Luck to You All.

Again OZZ, many thanks for the heads up, your time and your trouble.

Su Amigo,

Pudfark


----------



## Blackops_2

Might be sending mine back less it's Rev 4.0 then.


----------



## Spectre-

hi guys

i just need help with my motherboard i just got the gigabyte 990fxa-d3

and i cant flash the bios because the motherboard isnt recognising my usb


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spectre-*
> 
> hi guys
> 
> i just need help with my motherboard i just got the gigabyte 990fxa-d3
> 
> and i cant flash the bios because the motherboard isnt recognising my usb


Has the USB drive been formatted to Fat32?


----------



## 0S1R1S

I just got my UD5 installed and setup this evening. And I must say, so far it has been a night and day experience between this and the UD3. First thing I noticed was the default vcore setting each board listed for my 8350. The UD5 had it set to 1.332 by default, and the UD3 set it to 1.404 default, a little weird. Second, it seems to POST twice as fast. The UD3 just seemed to stall and take forever. Other than that, I tried the 4.5Ghz OC @ 1.356v (got Prime errors with 1.332v) with all the same bios settings I had applied while using the UD3, and I have NO vcore drops. Also, while I was swapping boards, I decided to try Antec Formula 7 TIM, and I'm impressed. I'm using the H60 with 2 SP120 HP's in push/push. Idle temps are around 24C With a few different 20 minute prime runs and benchmarks, I haven't broke 49C







.


----------



## Spectre-

nevermind sorry bad usb

thanks for the help


----------



## ffhounddog

Well I am stuck with my 3.0 board. Had too many issues with micro center and put 120 miles back and forth to that place the past week to get things right. I drive a truck so that is gas and I live in the DC area.

First the MSI board that I got had the 970 chipset and that board is just bad for the FX8350.

Second one bad stick of DRR3 ram and they said I messed it up. Got $20.00 off a 16 GB set so with tax under 115 for 16gb of ram.

Third First gigabyte board had a bad PCI-E 16.0 slot on the first slot. had to go back, that was on a Rev1.1 board.

They got a new shipment and they are all 3.0 so I said just give me the board.

So far everything is stable but my windows. Cannot find my Prox64 for a new install and still want to get a 1TB internal Western Digital with 64mb of cache for it and a SSD to do caching.

Just tire I had to do all this back and forth.

At least I got the two year micro center warranty. Should be good for something.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffhounddog*
> 
> Well I am stuck with my 3.0 board. Had too many issues with micro center and put 120 miles back and forth to that place the past week to get things right. I drive a truck so that is gas and I live in the DC area.
> 
> First the MSI board that I got had the 970 chipset and that board is just bad for the FX8350.
> 
> Second one bad stick of DRR3 ram and they said I messed it up. Got $20.00 off a 16 GB set so with tax under 115 for 16gb of ram.
> 
> Third First gigabyte board had a bad PCI-E 16.0 slot on the first slot. had to go back, that was on a Rev1.1 board.
> 
> They got a new shipment and they are all 3.0 so I said just give me the board.
> 
> So far everything is stable but my windows. Cannot find my Prox64 for a new install and still want to get a 1TB internal Western Digital with 64mb of cache for it and a SSD to do caching.
> 
> Just tire I had to do all this back and forth.
> 
> At least I got the two year micro center warranty. Should be good for something.


Grab a 80mm fan and rig it on top of the VRM heat sink should you run into trouble.

I actually just got done doing that and Im' stress testing at 4.5GHz, hopefully the heat where I live stays down as it's the only reason I haven't be really willing to try this out yet. So far so good, though I do have to keep HPC on though otherwise I get throttling at stock voltage. Looks like at full load CPU and NB maxed at 51C , that is only from a 10-15min run though.

I'm using the stock fan that comes with FX-8350 and have it running through SpeedFan as at 100% the damn thing sounds like a jet engine. I'm trying to see just how low I can let the fan go because it's still somewhat annoying, granted the rest of my rig is pretty loud. haha


----------



## ffhounddog

Going to do that if I have issues. found my corsair ram cooler and will use that too just to lower temps. Every little bit helps.

I am at 43 cpu this morning and its been dking downloading and updates, so not bad. Running a disk defrag due to startup windows issues last night.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffhounddog*
> 
> Going to do that if I have issues. found my corsair ram cooler and will use that too just to lower temps. Every little bit helps.
> 
> I am at 43 cpu this morning and its been dking downloading and updates, so not bad. Running a disk defrag due to startup windows issues last night.


You shouldn't run into any problems unless you run something that puts it at or very close to full load.


----------



## ffhounddog

Well maybe virtual reality porn but we shall see.

Just need to get to the gym and clear my head, been doing this for 8 says now.

Have a Antec Ninehundred Ultimate Gaming Case and it is full of fans right now.

ffh


----------



## Blackops_2

So you couldn't get a rev 4.0? I doubt i get one from the egg.







Gonna have to send it back if it isn't i think.


----------



## ffhounddog

Newegg migtht not buy in as large as batches as Microcenter. This is one of microcenter's standard bundle so you never know how many they ordered to keep at the warehouse. Also I traded it one on one with a MSI 970A-G46 and they did not want me to pay anything else I did get the two year warrenty. Basically means if mine fails they will replace it from the store. $226 for a GA990FXA and FX8350 is a good deal. Now they have the Asus mid range board in stock but as long as this runs I am okay with it.


----------



## Blackops_2

Well got a rev 3.0..







so should i even bother with this?


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Well got a rev 3.0..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so should i even bother with this?


What CPU are you running? If it's an 8350, then don't bother with it at all. My UD3 was throttling my 8350 at stock speeds, no OC. Might have to pay restocking fees, but the UD5 is probably worth it. I just got mine up and running last night and it's 100% better already.


----------



## Blackops_2

Well this isn't for me it's for a friend. I had just built him a 6300 rig on a ASrock 970 Extreme4. Tested it over the weekend gamed on it and had no problems. Soon as he took it home he was playing and the display wouldn't respond, and the mouse/Kb lost power. I assume it's the board honestly jumping to conclusion too quickly, but oh well i have two motherboards to test this weekend. Latest purchased reviews for the 970 extreme4 weren't looking too good honestly. I had to clear CMOS just to get the extreme 4 to post which a bit unnerving. So i went ahead and said screw it we'll up the budget 30$ and get a better board. This is with no overclocking or anything.

FX 6300
8Gb of DDR3 1866
Corsair CX 600
ASrock Extreme 4


----------



## 0S1R1S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> FX 6300
> 8Gb of DDR3 1866
> Corsair CX 600
> ASrock Extreme 4


From what I have been reading, it seems like the UD3 issue mainly affects the 8-core 8350's. The FX6300 *may* work without the same problems, but I am not positive. Maybe someone else will chime in who is using that CPU/Mobo combo.


----------



## miklkit

From what I have been reading here in the last few months the UD3 is fine with the 4XXX cpus, borderline with the 6XXX cpus, and on the ragged edge even at stock volts with the 8XXX cpus. Mine was doing ok with a 74 cfm fan on one side of the VRMs and a 110 cfm fan on the other side until the bios forgot to tell the PWM fan to speed up when it got hot.









What kind of CPU cooler is on that 6300? A C-type cooler that blows air on the motherboard might be a good choice with it. And easy on the volts!

This is my thinking today. When I get mine back it will get a Thermalright VRM heat sink, lots of fans, and either a 4350 or 6350 cpu.


----------



## ffhounddog

the board will be fine for the 6300. I am still going to run my octocon 8350 until it dies in mine. I might have gotten a good one for once.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffhounddog*
> 
> the board will be fine for the 6300. I am still going to run my octocon 8350 until it dies in mine. I might have gotten a good one for once.


Just dont let it over-heat and you shouldn't have any problems. Boards only warp when heat is applied


----------



## RustySocket

i have the 8320 and the ud3 rev3.0 and bios ver FC. i had about a week of frustration trying to get the bios setting to work at all.
then one last time they worked as i was about to smash it. this bios isnt very nice to work with, some get it working and most have the same throttling issue when they go past a certain o/c.

mine is steady/stable now at 4.4ghz with stock cooling. as for the 8350??? ive read its a o/c'd 8320 so should be fine at stock speed of 4ghz...no?

im not sure if you can but maybe try setting the 8350 to 3.5ghz like the 8320 and go up from there, anyone know if that chip can be underclocked?.....

its frustrating cus i prefer amd and gigabyte.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> From what I have been reading here in the last few months the UD3 is fine with the 4XXX cpus, borderline with the 6XXX cpus, and on the ragged edge even at stock volts with the 8XXX cpus. Mine was doing ok with a 74 cfm fan on one side of the VRMs and a 110 cfm fan on the other side until the bios forgot to tell the PWM fan to speed up when it got hot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of CPU cooler is on that 6300? A C-type cooler that blows air on the motherboard might be a good choice with it. And easy on the volts!
> 
> This is my thinking today. When I get mine back it will get a Thermalright VRM heat sink, lots of fans, and either a 4350 or 6350 cpu.


I had a hyper 212 on it but it wouldn't fit it in the case so i'm going to put my zalman 9500 on it.


----------



## Hellsrage

Yeah, there have been reports of problems with FX-63XX on the UD3 Rev. 3 as well, I think they were all trying to get a modest OC though so at stock I would say it should be fine, just remember if he ever wants to upgrade he'll need a new board.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Yeah, there have been reports of problems with FX-63XX on the UD3 Rev. 3 as well, I think they were all trying to get a modest OC though so at stock I would say it should be fine, just remember if he ever wants to upgrade he'll need a new board.


So the NB overheating issues are just when attempting to OC? Stock isn't bad? I really want to ask Gigabyte since i have a brand new board (literally) if i could exchange it for a Rev 4.0


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> So the NB overheating issues are just when attempting to OC? Stock isn't bad? I really want to ask Gigabyte since i have a brand new board (literally) if i could exchange it for a Rev 4.0


Generally, with an FX-63XX I wouldn't expect throttling at stock. But with something like an FX-8350 you can get throttling even at stock and don't ever dream of putting the new FX CPUs on this board.

Gigabyte will not do any upgrades/downgrade if you send in a Rev. 3 you get another Rev. 3, so don't even bother. Trust me I've spent a lot of my time arguing with them, I doubt they could help you in the slightest.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> The Asus sabertooth isn't bad but I'm happy to have the ud3 and fx-4170. it's cheap, fast and works. You should update to the beta bios. it solved some weird weirdissue with windows 8 and the new metro gui.


Not surprising... the FX-4000 and FX-6000 series seem to not cause as many problems for people on the UD3s as the FX-8000s... Of course Gigabyte would never warn customers that the budget UD3 isn't beefy enough to handle OC'ing an FX-8000 CPU... fewer people would've bought their boards.


----------



## mayford5

So I have been in "Negotiations" with Gigabyte about my UD5 horrible vdroop issues. A little recap really quick. I have the UD5 rev 1.0 and basically I have to run my cpu at 1.4 just to keep it stable stock 3.5ghz.. If I don't run it the vdroop goes all the way down to 1.27 now and I get some soft locks while playing games and hard locks when folding. I showed them the screen shots of what is happening when the cpu is under load (this is when the voltage drops out.) and this is what they told me.

*"Dear Customer,

We have checked with our team and this was the replied we got from our team

The difference of "1.35v - 1.32v" is not BIOS Vcore deviation, that slight vdroop was caused by the loading of OS and stress loading program. It's impossible for CPU run with a fix certain Vcore value when system under loading test, we can't expect what the exact Vcore value that loading utility or OS requires during each process of the loading test. What we can offer from BIOS is a range of Vcore not a specific fix value.
Make sure that you have the APM option turn off.
Power saving features in BIOS: Cool&Quiet and C3/C6, which make CPU Vcore drops apparently when system in idle if they are enabled. Also the CPU Vcore is affected by OS such as power option setting in Control Panel, and all the background applications and processes (can be viewed in Windows Task Manager) will cause CPU Vcore to change slightly as well."*

So not knowing probably as much as I should, does this sound like a valid response since I have all throttl ing up and down. I have never experienced this much vdroop from any system before. I swapped out the cpu to my 960t and I have the same droop. I put the 8320 on my old AM3+ board from MSI and I didn't have that much vdroop. I have had intel machines and amd machines that hold pretty steady at a certain vcore once it is set as long as turbo core was turned off and any kind of power saving functions were turned off.

One more thing they mention the c3/c6 states, those are currently off but when not under load the and at the auto setting of 1.35v the voltages spike up to 1.39v so it is actually drops much more than they are understanding. I don't get it and maybe it is beyond my knowledge so any advice would be great as at stock my cpu is not stable at the auto settings and I would like to OC again.

Thank you
Andrew


----------



## miklkit

Does the V1 have LLC? I am using an MSI board with no LLC and it gets vdroop in the 0.07V range under load, but it actually never gets as high as it is set in the bios when idling.

They seem to be saying that your vdroop under load is caused by things that would only cause a voltage drop when idling. Am I reading it correctly?


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Does the V1 have LLC? I am using an MSI board with no LLC and it gets vdroop in the 0.07V range under load, but it actually never gets as high as it is set in the bios when idling.
> 
> *They seem to be saying that your vdroop under load is caused by things that would only cause a voltage drop when idling. Am I reading it correctly*?


No LLC on the ver 1.0. Didn't come till 1.1

That is how I read it as well but the vdroop doesn't happen when it is at idle though it happens when a load is put on the cpu. As soon as I start folding or using prime95 it drops below stock voltages. At idle it jumps up to 1.39v.. that is the odd thing to me.


----------



## miklkit

The MSI board I am using now is like that. At 4.6 ghz it needs the vcore to be over 1.4V, but to get that it needs to be set to 1.54V in the bios. At idle it is around 1.5V but when loaded it drops to 1.4V.

It seems to me you are just used to LLC and Gigabyte is still making excuses.


----------



## dmfree88

vdroop is not a bad thing, so long as it droops and is still stable. There is nothing wrong with even a large vdroop, so long as it isnt extremely jumpy or causing bsods. LLC just keeps it under control or keeps you at similar voltages to idle.

http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad
http://www.overclockers.com/load-line-calibration/


----------



## darkelixa

So the pc store Umart had sabertooths come in stock today, and then go out of stock again


----------



## ebduncan

Honestly I would tell them this in a reply.

You have come out with a new revision of this motherboard which incorporates the use of load line calibration, to fix voltage drop. So when I am telling you I am experiencing voltage drop and causing my system to be unstable at stock settings, there is something wrong. You revised your motherboard to solve these issues. Don't tell me to disable power saving features of a processor to get it to run properly on your motherboard. Any increases to power consumption represents a unnecessary sunk cost. I would like to request a RMA for your techs to test this motherboard to verify its issues. If they can be repaired, then so be it, if not I would expect a replacement to be of the newest revision board you have.

I've dealt with gigabyte support, many of times. The trick is to sound like a dummy, they suggest some things to fix the problem, you reply saying i tried all that and it didn't work. They send out Rma ticket, you ship, they look, they repair, or send a replacement.

trying to argue with them about cpu voltage droops and other things won't get you anywhere. Simply saying your computer is not stable and i have no idea why its not is more effective.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Anyone with the ud5 rev 3 board here that sucessfully have raised there volt to the northbridge?


----------



## ffhounddog

cPU Z has my processor at 4.12 on stock and gigabyte software has it at 4.01 ghz. Bios says 20.5 volt and gigabyte win software says 20 for the CPU. So far 3 days stable with 16 gb of ram, 760 4gb card, 8350 and this UD3 3.0 board. temps on stock cooler and the fans in my antac 900 case is avg 39C, 47C on cpu is max since putting things back to default. It had been up to 68C on a 4.7ghz OC I did for 5 mins. The case is at 31C. On Air. Not bad so far. No issues as of yet. Games are only Medal of Honor and BF3 will run Far Cry 3 soon. No need to keep to OC i am already above my old Q6600. Thinking of selling that board, chip and a 8800gts to build a media center pc with a APU.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> vdroop is not a bad thing, so long as it droops and is still stable. There is nothing wrong with even a large vdroop, so long as it isnt extremely jumpy or causing bsods. LLC just keeps it under control or keeps you at similar voltages to idle.
> 
> http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad
> http://www.overclockers.com/load-line-calibration/


If my system was stable at stock speeds I wouldn't have any issues with vddroop at all. Like you said some is not bad, especially at idle. The problem is at idle the voltage ramps up and at full load the voltage droops down and causes instability. It almost seems the opposite of what should happen.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Honestly I would tell them this in a reply.
> 
> You have come out with a new revision of this motherboard which incorporates the use of load line calibration, to fix voltage drop. So when I am telling you I am experiencing voltage drop and causing my system to be unstable at stock settings, there is something wrong. You revised your motherboard to solve these issues. Don't tell me to disable power saving features of a processor to get it to run properly on your motherboard. Any increases to power consumption represents a unnecessary sunk cost. I would like to request a RMA for your techs to test this motherboard to verify its issues. If they can be repaired, then so be it, if not I would expect a replacement to be of the newest revision board you have.
> 
> I've dealt with gigabyte support, many of times. The trick is to sound like a dummy, they suggest some things to fix the problem, you reply saying i tried all that and it didn't work. They send out Rma ticket, you ship, they look, they repair, or send a replacement.
> 
> trying to argue with them about cpu voltage droops and other things won't get you anywhere. Simply saying your computer is not stable and i have no idea why its not is more effective.


I should have posted here first before I wrote them. That way they would have thought I knew less than I currently do.(even though that isn't that much) Basically they tried to close the ticket with the response I quoted but I wrote something very similar to what you told me to and they then asked me to give them specific instances of when it becomes unstable. I gave them all the instances I can think of and they said they would try to reproduce the same environment in the lab. I guess to see if it is a normality of the v1.0 boards. I guess only time will tell.







Just a question how bad is a .07v drop in voltage for a cpu?

Thank you
Andrew


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> If my system was stable at stock speeds I wouldn't have any issues with vddroop at all. Like you said some is not bad, especially at idle. The problem is at idle the voltage ramps up and at full load the voltage droops down and causes instability. It almost seems the opposite of what should happen.
> I should have posted here first before I wrote them. That way they would have thought I knew less than I currently do.(even though that isn't that much) Basically they tried to close the ticket with the response I quoted but I wrote something very similar to what you told me to and they then asked me to give them specific instances of when it becomes unstable. I gave them all the instances I can think of and they said they would try to reproduce the same environment in the lab. I guess to see if it is a normality of the v1.0 boards. I guess only time will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> Andrew


yeah that sounds like a strange issue. Doesn't surprise me though. On my ud5 rev1.1 if I have LLC set to auto or anything lower then average i get significant vdroop that results in either bsod or failing of whatever program is running (p95, ibt etc.), it just keeps drooping untill fail xD. I would send them a message back that says:

Theres no reason you should need to test this. You have already made a new revision due to this issue. Asside from that your test board will not necessarily have the same issues as mine. I can not successfully use this PC to complete any of my video editing (Doesn't even have to be true) due to the errors under heavy loads. I don't have the time or money to argue with you or replace this motherboard. The only way you can accurately tell me there's nothing wrong is by testing my board specifically.

I think something along those lines would get the rma ticket still







, once they feel the possibility of a lawsuit due to loss of work. They tend to jump up to help. I dunno though good luck with it, hope they give you a newer rev.

They pretty much shot themselves in the foot by making a new rev and not just making a new board. Theres obviously reasons the new rev had to be made, therefore admitting to the problems. I am sure you could take them to small claims court and win a case in an instant that gets you the newest rev or a full refund lol. Maybe rev 1.0 owners should file a class action LOL


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> If my system was stable at stock speeds I wouldn't have any issues with vddroop at all. Like you said some is not bad, especially at idle. The problem is at idle the voltage ramps up and at full load the voltage droops down and causes instability. It almost seems the opposite of what should happen.
> I should have posted here first before I wrote them. That way they would have thought I knew less than I currently do.(even though that isn't that much) Basically they tried to close the ticket with the response I quoted but I wrote something very similar to what you told me to and they then asked me to give them specific instances of when it becomes unstable. I gave them all the instances I can think of and they said they would try to reproduce the same environment in the lab. I guess to see if it is a normality of the v1.0 boards. I guess only time will tell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> Andrew


yeah that sounds like a strange issue. Doesn't surprise me though. On my ud5 rev1.1 if I have LLC set to auto or anything lower then average i get significant vdroop that results in either bsod or failing of whatever program is running (p95, ibt etc.), it just keeps drooping untill fail xD. I would send them a message back that says:

Theres no reason you should need to test this. You have already made a new revision due to this issue. Asside from that your test board will not necessarily have the same issues as mine. I can not successfully use this PC to complete any of my video editing (Doesn't even have to be true) due to the errors under heavy loads. I don't have the time or money to argue with you or replace this motherboard. The only way you can accurately tell me there's nothing wrong is by testing my board specifically.

I think something along those lines would get the rma ticket still







, once they feel the possibility of a lawsuit due to loss of work. They tend to jump up to help. I dunno though good luck with it, hope they give you a newer rev.

They pretty much shot themselves in the foot by making a new rev and not just making a new board. Theres obviously reasons the new rev had to be made, therefore admitting to the problems. I am sure you could take them to small claims court and win a case in an instant that gets you the newest rev or a full refund lol. Maybe rev 1.0 owners should file a class action LOL


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mtom*
> 
> ok so i talked with Martin on the HWinfo site, he suggested to compare the temperatures with Gigabytes own Easytune software, and it seems, the Temp3 is the real socket temp (at least ET shows that reading as CPU). He will fix the reading in the next HWinfo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mtom*
> 
> This was the answer i got:
> 
> "Thanks. Then HWiNFO is wrong - I'll fix it in the next build to show Temperature 3 as CPU.
> The 2nd temperature (currently reported as CPU) is most probably the NB temperature - I'll fix this too, though Gigabyte doesn't report this value... "
> 
> Also it makes sense, becouse the temp 3 is moving together with the CPU 0 temp.
> Guess we will never know for sure..


Just thought Id pull this over from the 83XX thread, good to know


----------



## Blackops_2

Wait so the NB isn't overheating?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Wait so the NB isn't overheating?


well i guess that depends what your CPU reading is saying in hwinfo64.. but apparently its not temp 3


----------



## miklkit

The Northbridge is between your CPU and video card and usually runs fairly cool. The VRMs are located between the CPU and the I/O panel. The VRMs are what got super hot on my UD3.

Which one is being reported in HWINFO? Not the VRMs.


----------



## Blackops_2

I finally got this 6300 to boot with the UD3 and my NB is a bit hot to the touch, not warm, not scolding, but hot.

NB reading in HWin64 is 32C? Though it feels hot as hell.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I finally got this 6300 to boot with the UD3 and my NB is a bit hot to the touch, not warm, not scolding, but hot.


It was never really NB that you needed to worry about, with the UD3 Rev. 3 it's the VRMs that are the problem. If you wanna see if you're gonna have problems get Prime95 and run smallFFTs for a while, keep a monitoring software open and keep an eye on the frequency/voltage. If you're ever gonna have problems that will show it.

As for the temp sensors, yeah I'm pretty sure that NB and the VRMs either don't have sensors or aren't being reported, if I turn my fan that's over the VRMs from 100% to 0% nothing changes in temp. Also doesn't NB run pretty warm on all the 990FXA boards?


----------



## Blackops_2

I was under the impression the NB isn't supposed to get that hot? Either way it's hot as hell right now. Sensors don't show it but it's too hot to touch and leave your finger there, right now.



Don't know whether to send it back and get an Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0 or just put it in the case and be done with it.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> I was under the impression the NB isn't supposed to get that hot? Either way it's hot as hell right now. Sensors don't show it but it's too hot to touch and leave your finger there, right now.


Those temps are perfectly fine. I've had the temp sensor named Northbridge go up to 52C with no problems in a 20min run with Prime95.

Like I said though NB runs hot and seems to be quite normal.


----------



## Blackops_2

Yes but should it be that hot to touch?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Yes but should it be that hot to touch?


Yes, it's normal with UD3's, like I said it runs hot the heat sink is just doing its job. Also NB is supposedly rated to have a maximum temp of 95C, though I would never let it get up there.


----------



## miklkit

What is your overall air flow situation? That motherboard NEEDS a lot of air flowing over it. It runs hot anyway.

This is kinda comparing apples and oranges because I'm running an MSI board right now, but my Northbridge is either 36C or 46C ( I haven't figured it out yet) and when I touch it it stings a bit.

You got prime 95 to work? I never did get it working and moved on to OCCT.


----------



## ffhounddog

My CPU during everyday stuff is between 32C and 44C on the two core on EZtune and playing BF3 it does not get to 60. I have a Antac 900 case so that might be where some of the circulation is coming from.

Found an old 3x40mm HDD fan that I might install in there to add more airflow. I have an open slot for a HDD that runs right over the GPU and close to the Northbrige. Is it a smart idea?

ffh


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> What is your overall air flow situation? That motherboard NEEDS a lot of air flowing over it. It runs hot anyway.
> 
> This is kinda comparing apples and oranges because I'm running an MSI board right now, but my Northbridge is either 36C or 46C ( I haven't figured it out yet) and when I touch it it stings a bit.
> 
> You got prime 95 to work? I never did get it working and moved on to OCCT.


occt doesnt provide proper stability testing. in the readme for p95 it states if you are unable to keep p95 stable there IS something wrong. I was able to get occt to 4.5ghz stable. While p95/IBT avx had to be at 4.3ghz and have a higher vcore. From what I understand occt is good for graphing out and loading up the cpu (voltage regulation / psu testing), but for actually stability p95 is the way to go. Less likely to ever see a bsod or have errors while folding or video conversions, gaming etc (things that load the cpu heavily) if you are p95 stable


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> What is your overall air flow situation? That motherboard NEEDS a lot of air flowing over it. It runs hot anyway.
> 
> This is kinda comparing apples and oranges because I'm running an MSI board right now, but my Northbridge is either 36C or 46C ( I haven't figured it out yet) and when I touch it it stings a bit.
> 
> You got prime 95 to work? I never did get it working and moved on to OCCT.


After running it on the bench and reinstalling windows and drivers i put it back in the case. Now when i press the power button it lights up and turns off real quick. So i must have a short somewhere. Been working between the two motherboards since 2pm, i gotta take a break and eat something then i'll have to retrace my steps.

I thought i read somewhere that P95 would destabilize a stock PD? Can't remember where i read that though.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> After running it on the bench and reinstalling windows and drivers i put it back in the case. Now when i press the power button it lights up and turns off real quick. So i must have a short somewhere. Been working between the two motherboards since 2pm, i gotta take a break and eat something then i'll have to retrace my steps.
> 
> I thought i read somewhere that P95 would destabilize a stock PD? Can't remember where i read that though.


Does it come back on after turning on then off? If so have you changed any settings the BIOS?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Does it come back on after turning on then off? If so have you changed any settings the BIOS?


Doesn't come back on. Going to check 24 pin power connector and the panel switches, might have just mixed them up or something.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Doesn't come back on. Going to check 24 pin power connector and the panel switches, might have just mixed them up or something.


did you remember your gpu power connector? i forgot that once


----------



## Blackops_2

I think working on this thing 7 hours has been taking it's toll on me







had the power switch reversed


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> did you remember your gpu power connector? i forgot that once


Don't feel bad, when I used an AIO liquid cooler for the first time, I forgot to hook up the second fan wire... It's pretty frustrating trying to install windows when your tower shuts down after no more than 60 seconds, but you get even more frustrated when you realize how small an error like that is so easy to overlook... for 3 hours at least, lol.


----------



## mayford5

Just a quick update. Here is the response I have received from the "Engineers" at gigabyte about my UD5 v1.0

"Answer : During gaming mode the screen is usually filled, how were you able to monitor
the amount of CPU usage and voltage issue during those applications?
Our team had tested this board in the lab using the same FX-8320 processor
running heavy GPU graphic intensive application such as Unigine, 3D Vantage
for over an hour without any issue any issue regarding instability factor.
You may want to isolate the videocard first by swapping out with an different model
They find no instability issue at default settings during these applications as you
mention. Our engineer have mention that the slight voltage fluctuation is normal
and is not an factor to effect stability issue as you indicated.
If you wish to sending in the board we can have our team perform the same test
with our configuration with your boar to check for any issue. If you wish to proceed
with this request please submit your RMA request below

http://rma.gigabyte.us ( select End User ) "

So by their determination because a completely different board run in their lab is stable that mine is as well.

Personally I did get a kick out of him telling me that the screen is filled during gaming. As if nobody on Earth has more than one monitor on their desk. I asked if he wanted a picture of that as well.

I am done with gigabyte at least for AMD boards. I have a UD5H in my machine at work with a 2600k in it. Thinking about asking the boss for an upgrade lately but I will def stay away from them. I'll probably stick with Asus from now on.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Don't feel bad, when I used an AIO liquid cooler for the first time, I forgot to hook up the second fan wire... It's pretty frustrating trying to install windows when your tower shuts down after no more than 60 seconds, but you get even more frustrated when you realize how small an error like that is so easy to overlook... for 3 hours at least, lol.


No worries mate. I think we have all done things like that. The problem was when back in the day when there wasn't a failsafe when you forgot to plug in your fan on the pentium pros.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I love Gigabyte support. They are always so condescending. I don't have to warn people away from their products, they are doing a fine job themselves!


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> occt doesnt provide proper stability testing. in the readme for p95 it states if you are unable to keep p95 stable there IS something wrong. I was able to get occt to 4.5ghz stable. While p95/IBT avx had to be at 4.3ghz and have a higher vcore. From what I understand occt is good for graphing out and loading up the cpu (voltage regulation / psu testing), but for actually stability p95 is the way to go. Less likely to ever see a bsod or have errors while folding or video conversions, gaming etc (things that load the cpu heavily) if you are p95 stable


I don't want to get into a debate about this because I'd kinda sorta be like a one legged man at an a$$ kicking contest.

But as someone else once said "Linpack is linpack is linpack".

http://us.yhs4.search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oGdNkWhfxRUBAAYikPxQt.;_ylu=X3oDMTByZWgwN285BHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA3NrMQR2dGlkAw--/SIG=13brhvc3e/EXP=1375532438/**http%3a//www.overclock.net/t/1152910/ibt-linx-avx-vs-prime95-for-stability-stress-testing


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Just a quick update. Here is the response I have received from the "Engineers" at gigabyte about my UD5 v1.0
> 
> "Answer : During gaming mode the screen is usually filled, how were you able to monitor
> the amount of CPU usage and voltage issue during those applications?
> Our team had tested this board in the lab using the same FX-8320 processor
> running heavy GPU graphic intensive application such as Unigine, 3D Vantage
> for over an hour without any issue any issue regarding instability factor.
> You may want to isolate the videocard first by swapping out with an different model
> They find no instability issue at default settings during these applications as you
> mention. Our engineer have mention that the slight voltage fluctuation is normal
> and is not an factor to effect stability issue as you indicated.
> If you wish to sending in the board we can have our team perform the same test
> with our configuration with your boar to check for any issue. If you wish to proceed
> with this request please submit your RMA request below
> 
> http://rma.gigabyte.us ( select End User ) "


Apparently they're morons or putting you on... all of us around here know that there are utilities out there that can be run in the background and used to graph and monitor such things in real-time... for example AIDA64 offers pretty nice features for doing such... only drawback to most of those kinds of utilities is that you have to pay for them.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I don't want to get into a debate about this because I'd kinda sorta be like a one legged man at an a$$ kicking contest.
> 
> But as someone else once said "Linpack is linpack is linpack".
> 
> http://us.yhs4.search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A0oGdNkWhfxRUBAAYikPxQt.;_ylu=X3oDMTByZWgwN285BHNlYwNzcgRwb3MDMQRjb2xvA3NrMQR2dGlkAw--/SIG=13brhvc3e/EXP=1375532438/**http%3a//www.overclock.net/t/1152910/ibt-linx-avx-vs-prime95-for-stability-stress-testing


IBT and OCCT hardly produce the errors that p95 does. p95 will catch problems quicker. OCCT runs with stock voltage at 4.5ghz with no errors. IBT actually shows errors and works better then occt. but either way p95 shows you instabilities and is much more consistant. Id say if theres not a compatability issue that if your not stable with all 3 your still not stable. p95 stable is alot more difficult to obtain then occt stable. Like I said read the readme for p95 it states, if it doesn't work right there IS something wrong.

It also mentions this is very subjectable. You can be happy with your occt stability and if it works fine it works fine. Anyone can make it as stable as they need or stable enough. This doesnt mean your pc doesnt have instabilities and couldn't be better. But they all do linpacks in different formats. IBT AVX hits it in heavy waves, p95 is constant testing cores seperately, OCCT is constant also testing cores seperately but gives you no actual reasoning for instability other then fail on core __, which also happens much less often then p95 or IBT.

They may all do the same type of "loading" of the cpu, but they do provide different results. P95 produces what seems to be the best results, hands down. IBT AVX produces best temperature results and also is good at catching instabilities but still not over time effective like p95. OCCT would fail for me while unstable but very inconsistantly. sometimes after 3 hours of running occt no fail, next run fails in 30 seconds. I dont trust occt nearly as much as i trust p95


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I love Gigabyte support. They are always so condescending. I don't have to warn people away from their products, they are doing a fine job themselves!


I find it funny and sad that this is the way almost all of their support is as well, freaking astounding. How do you manage to employ so many useless people? Unless being that way is a requirement then I understand.


----------



## miklkit

My experience is different from yours. P95 would not work right. Period. I'm done with it.


----------



## FiatluX

I think Gigabyte knows perfectly well that all the pre rev. 4 UD3´s are flawed and therefore will do anything to avoid RMA´s..









Talk about shooting off your foot with a double barrel 12 gauge shotgun!


----------



## s15sLiDeR

Honestly, I will just keep harassing their tech support until they close my ticket. I am done with this company. I picked up a UD5 and this is probably going to be my last gigabtye product ever.

To all the people who unfortunately picked up the UD3 rev 3.0 board, I am sorry. Seriously, I can't even sell this poor excuse of a board on craigslist for 90 dollars. I feel robbed.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s15sLiDeR*
> 
> Honestly, I will just keep harassing their tech support until they close my ticket. I am done with this company. I picked up a UD5 and this is probably going to be my last gigabtye product ever.
> 
> To all the people who unfortunately picked up the UD3 rev 3.0 board, I am sorry. Seriously, I can't even sell this poor excuse of a board on craigslist for 90 dollars. I feel robbed.


They will just stop answering you. That is what they did to me. Trust me they have exactly zero facks to give.


----------



## istudy92

I have UD 3 fxa990... Im not sure what rev..i have..but I have updated the bios to 3.0? Is thwt rev. U are all talking about?

So when I overclock my fx4300 4.7 stable and put it to prime95 the multiplayer fluxuates..like crazy..yes..iv done all settings correct. Why is this happening? Is it really bc of no APM?

I then put today an phenom II 1090t and OC it to 3.8 and NO multiplier flux shown with same OC settings...so ***?

The flux was seen through CPU z


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> I have UD 3 fxa990... Im not sure what rev..i have..but I have updated the bios to 3.0? Is thwt rev. U are all talking about?
> 
> So when I overclock my fx4300 4.7 stable and put it to prime95 the multiplayer fluxuates..like crazy..yes..iv done all settings correct. Why is this happening? Is it really bc of no APM?
> 
> I then put today an phenom II 1090t and OC it to 3.8 and NO multiplier flux shown with same OC settings...so ***?
> 
> The flux was seen through CPU z


Rev will be on the board in the lower left hand corner.


----------



## Spectre-

hi guys.

can someone give me some overclocking settings for the FX-8120 with the gigabyte 990FXA -D3 mobo


----------



## istudy92

Thanks rocket! +1 rep.

Okay...so now i see that my board is rev.3
What does that have to do with erm..the fluxuating multipler n voltage from fx4300 to fully stable multiplayer and voltage on 1090t black phenom.

My psu is a platinum and highly stable.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Thanks rocket! +1 rep.
> 
> Okay...so now i see that my board is rev.3
> What does that have to do with erm..the fluxuating multipler n voltage from fx4300 to fully stable multiplayer and voltage on 1090t black phenom.
> 
> My psu is a platinum and highly stable.


The overclock is probably too high for the board, you're getting the same problem we with FX-8350s get at stock speeds. If you have an extra fan laying around rig it so it's over the VRM heat sink blowing air on it or you can lower the clock/voltage and see how high you can go without tweaking your PC.

As for your question, the GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev. 3 (the board you have) is an absolute peace of crap and just can't support most FX CPU's, this really shows when you try to OC with the board, your VRMs get too hot and the voltage starts to get throttled thus also reducing your multiplier.


----------



## miklkit

Overclocking combo's for the UD3? What I ended up with was one click more volts (+0.025V) to the vcore and ran the cpu multiplier up until it destabilized. On that 8350 it was 4.5ghz. 4.6ghz was unstable and overheated the VRMs anyway. Heh, even 4.5 would get them so hot that the case would almost get too hot to touch. The VRMs were probably glowing in there.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Overclocking combo's for the UD3? What I ended up with was one click more volts (+0.025V) to the vcore and ran the cpu multiplier up until it destabilized. On that 8350 it was 4.5ghz. 4.6ghz was unstable and overheated the VRMs anyway. Heh, even 4.5 would get them so hot that the case would almost get too hot to touch. The VRMs were probably glowing in there.


Haha, I remember getting a strange smell from my PC when I first started to OC with the UD3 and now I'm pretty sure that was probably something they coated the heat sink with getting too hot.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yeah mine had the smell big time after I finally got the VRM situation sorted out. I thought something was going to fry. Now I no longer experience that smell and its still working so I guess its ok lol. I really need to replace this board and get a H100 so I can push my 8350 harder. 4.4ghz just isn't enough it wants more!


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> The overclock is probably too high for the board, you're getting the same problem we with FX-8350s get at stock speeds. If you have an extra fan laying around rig it so it's over the VRM heat sink blowing air on it or you can lower the clock/voltage and see how high you can go without tweaking your PC.
> 
> As for your question, the GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev. 3 (the board you have) is an absolute peace of crap and just can't support most FX CPU's, this really shows when you try to OC with the board, your VRMs get too hot and the voltage starts to get throttled thus also reducing your multiplier.


Wow thanks for the clarification, your on point with all the things i have noticed.
Yes I have a very good air cooling setup 6 fans non stock. The VRM is crap overheats with 8350 i thought it was the CPU but in reality its the mobo!

I cant return rev 3 for a newer one can i? Bc isnt rev 4 crap as well?

Such a sad case...

Should I keep a phenom II 1090t x6 at 3.8 OC or an fx4300 quad 4.7 on this mobo whats ur opinion guys?
I play lots of games, and multi task here and there.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Wow thanks for the clarification, your on point with all the things i have noticed.
> Yes I have a very good air cooling setup 6 fans non stock. The VRM is crap overheats with 8350 i thought it was the CPU but in reality its the mobo!
> 
> I cant return rev 3 for a newer one can i? Bc isnt rev 4 crap as well?
> 
> Such a sad case...
> 
> Should I keep a phenom II 1090t x6 at 3.8 OC or an fx4300 quad 4.7 on this mobo whats ur opinion guys?
> I play lots of games, and multi task here and there.


Rev 4.0 is supposed to be better i think, but no you can't exchange for a new revision i asked the same thing


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Rev 4.0 is supposed to be better i think, but no you can't exchange for a new revision i asked the same thing










In my last email to Gigabyte I told them I would gladly pay the difference to get a rev 4 or UD5. I guess I will be getting the old one back...........


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Rev 4.0 is supposed to be better i think, but no you can't exchange for a new revision i asked the same thing


The Rev 4s have much better cooling on the VRMs because they basically updated it to the same heatpipe cooler used on the UD5 and UD7... also meaning the heatsinks are firmly secured to the pcb, unlike the earlier revs of the UD3. However, I've noticed more and more with my UD5 that if I push it high, it's either plagued by high VRM temps or excess voltage droop. I'm starting to think the issue is more that Gigabyte doesn't have an Enthusiast/OC friendly series designed for the FX processors, simply because they choose to ignore that market sector. They have at least a half dozen for Z77 and Z87, but none for 990FX. And through the experiences the lot of UD3 owners around here have had with their customer dis-service, that seems to be an accurate view of their attitude towards the AMD chipsets and CPUs.


----------



## MadGoat

Thing is that with the heatpipe from NB to VRM... the NB will heat the VRMS. Effectively decreasing the cooling capacity of the VRM heatsink.

I'd rather my NB run stupid hot (as its built to be able to do so ,up to 80c) and cool the VRMs separate like I am with my Rev 1.0 ud3 that is happy as a clam with my 8350 @ 4.875.

Food for thought.


----------



## miklkit

The flaw in your thinking is that you think all heat sinks are the same size. They are not. The UD3 heat sink is less than half the size of the heat sinks on other boards, like this heat piped one. There is no way the stock cooler is good enough. I have $220 in my UD3 and Gigabyte has it on RMA.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The flaw in your thinking is that you think all heat sinks are the same size. They are not. The UD3 heat sink is less than half the size of the heat sinks on other boards, like this heat piped one. There is no way the stock cooler is good enough. I have $220 in my UD3 and Gigabyte has it on RMA.


discussing the UD3 1.0, 1.1, 3.0 vs UD3 4.0

But otherwise...


----------



## miklkit

Delete this post please. DP


----------



## miklkit

That's the only pic I have but hopefully this one from one page back will show up.

http://cdn.overclock.net/7/7b/7b25fac6_900x900px-LL-bb4b1704_gigabyte_990fx_ud3_rev4.jpeg


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That's the only pic I have, but here is one of the UD4 from last page.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/7/7b/50x50px-ZC-7b25fac6_900x900px-LL-bb4b1704_gigabyte_990fx_ud3_rev4.jpeg


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

The heatsink on the UD3 Rev 3 VRM is beyond inadequate. Even the Enzotech copper unit can't provide enough cooling by itself. I do still believe that Gigabyte started using inferior VRM chips on the Rev 3 boards due to the 1.0 and 1.1's not having the issues Rev 3 has.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Wow thanks for the clarification, your on point with all the things i have noticed.
> Yes I have a very good air cooling setup 6 fans non stock. The VRM is crap overheats with 8350 i thought it was the CPU but in reality its the mobo!
> 
> I cant return rev 3 for a newer one can i? Bc isnt rev 4 crap as well?
> 
> Such a sad case...
> 
> Should I keep a phenom II 1090t x6 at 3.8 OC or an fx4300 quad 4.7 on this mobo whats ur opinion guys?
> I play lots of games, and multi task here and there.


Unfortunately Gigabyte doesn't do revisions swaps so you can't return it for a Rev. 4. If you bought it recently you may be able to return it to the store you bought it from though.

If you want to keep the FX-4300 at 4.7 all you gotta do is rig a fan over the VRM heat sinks like in this picture from Ozzy, I have done this as well to keep my motherboard stable.


As you can see he managed to just use zip ties to hang the fan over the VRM heat sink but it can be done any way you like. I didn't have any anchor points close enough for zip ties so I ended up using some insulated wire to hang the stock fan that comes on the crappy heat sink with your CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> The heatsink on the UD3 Rev 3 VRM is beyond inadequate. Even the Enzotech copper unit can't provide enough cooling by itself. I do still believe that Gigabyte started using inferior VRM chips on the Rev 3 boards due to the 1.0 and 1.1's not having the issues Rev 3 has.


Agreed, they have changed more than the heat sink on the Rev. 4 everything is a little better now. It would have to be to in order to support the new FX CPUs which is exactly why they made a new revision.


----------



## istudy92

Man im sad reading all this, im new to building rigs..its been my first one..i thought i had the perfect items for my rig!
I always thought i was just a noob or my cou ran just too hot, but it was always this mobo...damn gigabyte..damn you!! Stealing candy from a baby!!


----------



## RustySocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Man im sad reading all this, im new to building rigs..its been my first one..i thought i had the perfect items for my rig!
> I always thought i was just a noob or my cou ran just too hot, but it was always this mobo...damn gigabyte..damn you!! Stealing candy from a baby!!


you will get it to work.....get the fan over the vrms.


----------



## robcowboy73

I have just thorn a phenom 2 quad core on it as the dam thing kept freezing on me with my 8350. As soon as I can get the cash together I on amazon to order the Saber tooth R2 and this will go as a media rig as that's all this motherboard is fit for. play films and surfing the net








I am well miffed off with UD 3 REV 3 and the comment about Stealing candy from a baby is right. I feel like I have been mugged and then ass raped. I have put a twin fan unit from the DDR and cut a hole in the back of the motherboard tray and mounted a 120 to cool the back as well


----------



## ffhounddog

imy board is sta le at 4.2 ghz but that is a factoryy overclock. the board did it itself. Now I need to figure out how to get another fan into it.


----------



## RustySocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *robcowboy73*
> 
> I have just thorn a phenom 2 quad core on it as the dam thing kept freezing on me with my 8350. As soon as I can get the cash together I on amazon to order the Saber tooth R2 and this will go as a media rig as that's all this motherboard is fit for. play films and surfing the net
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am well miffed off with UD 3 REV 3 and the comment about Stealing candy from a baby is right. I feel like I have been mugged and then ass raped. I have put a twin fan unit from the DDR and cut a hole in the back of the motherboard tray and mounted a 120 to cool the back as well


Yea ill be dumping this ud3 some time soon to bad it had so much promise, i am kicking myself for buying it blind.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RustySocket*
> 
> Yea ill be dumping this ud3 some time soon to bad it had so much promise, i am kicking myself for buying it blind.


Tell me about it...i bought it cause gigabyte was a big name...PLUS i saw it on newegg previews" how the guy was like OHH LOOK at this and that its a GREAT mobo! And look its even BLACK!"

Duck him and duck gigbyte


----------



## FiatluX

What good is a larger heatsink on the rev.4 if they still mount it with their usual toothpaste crap?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> What good is a larger heatsink on the rev.4 if they still mount it with their usual toothpaste crap?


Its really not larger at all... they extended the VRM heatsink toward the IO plate... But its not much if any more surface area. Add to the fact that the heat from the NB will now be dumped to the VRMS as well... I dont see how this gets any better....

However, if you notice they are using different chokes for the rev4 vs. the older boards...

Looking closer I've realized the VRM heat-sink is a bit LONGER than the older one. If the VRMs are spaced out more, this could dramatically help... Also, it looks as the though the heat-sinks are "riveted" in some fashion ... maybe there is a back-plate?!

Well if these board end up supporting steamroller, I'll probably pick one up with the next processor gen to check it out.... TBH I love my UD3 rev1 and rev3.


----------



## ffhounddog

So far I am liking the 990FXA-UD3 over that MSI POS they gave me first at MicroCenter. They gave me the UD3 for the same price as the cheap MSI 970board.

I will have this for a few years if it holds up.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ffhounddog*
> 
> So far I am liking the 990FXA-UD3 over that MSI POS they gave me first at MicroCenter. They gave me the UD3 for the same price as the cheap MSI 970board.
> 
> I will have this for a few years if it holds up.


MSI sent me to gigabyte too







probably had the same board, msi 970a-g46 and it was a junker and super flimsy. I could immediately tell when I picked up my ud5 out of the box that it was superior quality. MSI makes good parts, just not good low end mobos. Although I finally did get the g46 back from the RMA and threw the 8350 back in it and it did function at stock OK. Vcore was all over the place but apparently to msi thats stable. It was still better then the one i sent back. Hopefully I can make a phenom II build out of it for my buddy and it will work good for that. Hopefully... lol


----------



## ffhounddog

You are correct that is the same board. I was trying to find one that could handle two Nvidia cards. Funny how I am going back to AMD and sticking with Nvidia Cards. They just work better in a AMD system than the AMD/ATI cards do in my builds.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Its really not larger at all... they extended the VRM heatsink toward the IO plate... But its not much if any more surface area. Add to the fact that the heat from the NB will now be dumped to the VRMS as well... I dont see how this gets any better....
> 
> However, if you notice they are using different chokes for the rev4 vs. the older boards...
> 
> Looking closer I've realized the VRM heat-sink is a bit LONGER than the older one. If the VRMs are spaced out more, this could dramatically help... Also, it looks as the though the heat-sinks are "riveted" in some fashion ... maybe there is a back-plate?!
> 
> Well if these board end up supporting steamroller, I'll probably pick one up with the next processor gen to check it out.... TBH I love my UD3 rev1 and rev3.


I feel the same, I will try selling my rev 1.1 and getting a rev 4.0 if posible.


----------



## miklkit

I am still trading emails with Gigabyte and their last one is a real eye opener.









First the backstory. I got the UD3 up to 4.52 ghz but could go no further because that was its thermal limit. Then it overheated and warped anyway, so it got RMA'd. Currently I'm using an MSI 990FXA-GD80 that is running cool at 4.6 ghz. The new CPU cooler and some better case fans arrived last night, so 4.7-4.8 ghz is coming soon.

Anyway, here is Gigabyte's last reply in full.

"Dear customer,

We don't believe replacing the motherboard with a REV 4.0 or UD5 will solve your issues. These motherboards are design the same way and you may still experience the same issues due to over clocking and aftermarket heat sink.

Thank you"









Make your own decisions.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So they are saying they know they are selling us garbage?


----------



## miklkit

Ayup. They say that their boards are only good at stock clocks and in stock condition. They can not handle overclocking.


----------



## Hellsrage

Tell them that while it's cute they don't believe getting a better motherboard will help, what they believe matters not and that they don't know anything about their own motherboards.

Gigabyte is just too stupid for their own good.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Tell them that while it's cute they don't believe getting a better motherboard will help, what they believe matters not and that they don't know anything about their own motherboards.
> 
> Gigabyte is just too stupid for their own good.


I wouldn't call them stupid, it's more of they don't give a damn. And are doing everything to not to have replace a faulty product from the get go.

Though to be fair i don't think i've ever heard of a good RMA or review of customer service regarding motherboards. I've always stuck with Asus never had a problem until i switched to ASrock, now i have two Gigabytes in my possession. A 990fx-UD3 and a G1.Sniper 3.


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So they are saying they know they are selling us garbage?


Not like they will care.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I am still trading emails with Gigabyte and their last one is a real eye opener.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First the backstory. I got the UD3 up to 4.52 ghz but could go no further because that was its thermal limit. Then it overheated and warped anyway, so it got RMA'd. Currently I'm using an MSI 990FXA-GD80 that is running cool at 4.6 ghz. The new CPU cooler and some better case fans arrived last night, so 4.7-4.8 ghz is coming soon.
> 
> Anyway, here is Gigabyte's last reply in full.
> 
> "Dear customer,
> 
> We don't believe replacing the motherboard with a REV 4.0 or UD5 will solve your issues. These motherboards are design the same way and you may still experience the same issues due to over clocking and aftermarket heat sink.
> 
> Thank you"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make your own decisions.


I would lose it on them if I were you. Why the hell do they care what kind you get? You offered to PAY the difference. What the hell does it matter? They still get the same amount of money overall just lose one board that they will just send to someone else anyways. MSI did the same thing to me. I am not even sure what happened or if they even tested my motherboard. I think MSI just trades you boards with someone else that RMA'd theres at the same time if they both work "normal" to them. Anyways I told them the same thing I would pay for a better board, theres no point giving me back this board because its useless even a different board will still not work any better then the one i sent in. I attached a letter with it and sent an email stating this. I got no response from either and got sent back a different board (same model) then I sent in, with no information other then "motherboard swapped". I think there seriously needs to be a lawsuit taken up against them for releasing faulty products with overclock stated on the package (unlock truest potental etc etc) that cant do it. Just cause you can put it in the hole and the computer turns on DOES NOT MEAN IT WORKS RIGHT.


----------



## Ribbit777

anyone able to help me get this thing stable

cpu: amd fx 8350
gpu: hd 7970
motherboard: gigabyte ga 990fxa ud7
psu: rosewill 1000w
cooling: antec 920
os: windows 8.1
harddrives: 240gb ssd and 1tb hdd
ram: 16gb (4 4gb sticks) patriot 1866mhz (9-10-9-27) 1.5v

so ive been trying to get this cpu overclocked and im having some problems. i used a guide that was very similar to what i have in my pc.
i have core boost, C1E, K8 Cool& Quiet, C6 support all disabled and the llc is set to high and everything else is set to auto.
i did run prime95 for 30min to see what would happen. it froze after about 15min so i upped the vcore from 1.4 to 1.425 and re ran it, and it ran fine for the 30 min. it ran at 68C but at one point it jumped to 81 for a second, i was about to turn it off then it went back down so i left it running. the vcore was constantly going from 1.418ish to 1.312.
my room temp is around 85f-+

this was before i ran prime95


and this was just before i stopped prime95


----------



## miklkit

I do believe even ebduncan will agree that those temperatures are too high. Something is very wrong and you need to get the cooling under control before doing anything else.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah something wrong with the pump or something maybe? might have slowed to a stop during that temp spike... maybe that or you got an air bubble on your processor (or not enough/poorly spread thermal paste) and not transferring heat right


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I would lose it on them if I were you. Why the hell do they care what kind you get? You offered to PAY the difference. What the hell does it matter? They still get the same amount of money overall just lose one board that they will just send to someone else anyways. MSI did the same thing to me. I am not even sure what happened or if they even tested my motherboard. I think MSI just trades you boards with someone else that RMA'd theres at the same time if they both work "normal" to them. Anyways I told them the same thing I would pay for a better board, theres no point giving me back this board because its useless even a different board will still not work any better then the one i sent in. I attached a letter with it and sent an email stating this. I got no response from either and got sent back a different board (same model) then I sent in, with no information other then "motherboard swapped". I think there seriously needs to be a lawsuit taken up against them for releasing faulty products with overclock stated on the package (unlock truest potental etc etc) that cant do it. Just cause you can put it in the hole and the computer turns on DOES NOT MEAN IT WORKS RIGHT.


I second that.


----------



## RustySocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I would lose it on them if I were you. Why the hell do they care what kind you get? You offered to PAY the difference. What the hell does it matter? They still get the same amount of money overall just lose one board that they will just send to someone else anyways. MSI did the same thing to me. I am not even sure what happened or if they even tested my motherboard. I think MSI just trades you boards with someone else that RMA'd theres at the same time if they both work "normal" to them. Anyways I told them the same thing I would pay for a better board, theres no point giving me back this board because its useless even a different board will still not work any better then the one i sent in. I attached a letter with it and sent an email stating this. I got no response from either and got sent back a different board (same model) then I sent in, with no information other then "motherboard swapped". I think there seriously needs to be a lawsuit taken up against them for releasing faulty products with overclock stated on the package (unlock truest potental etc etc) that cant do it. Just cause you can put it in the hole and the computer turns on DOES NOT MEAN IT WORKS RIGHT.


i think your on to something...lawsuit


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RustySocket*
> 
> i think your on to something...lawsuit


To be honest
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I would lose it on them if I were you. Why the hell do they care what kind you get? You offered to PAY the difference. What the hell does it matter? They still get the same amount of money overall just lose one board that they will just send to someone else anyways. MSI did the same thing to me. I am not even sure what happened or if they even tested my motherboard. I think MSI just trades you boards with someone else that RMA'd theres at the same time if they both work "normal" to them. Anyways I told them the same thing I would pay for a better board, theres no point giving me back this board because its useless even a different board will still not work any better then the one i sent in. I attached a letter with it and sent an email stating this. I got no response from either and got sent back a different board (same model) then I sent in, with no information other then "motherboard swapped". I think there seriously needs to be a lawsuit taken up against them for releasing faulty products with overclock stated on the package (unlock truest potental etc etc) that cant do it. Just cause you can put it in the hole and the computer turns on DOES NOT MEAN IT WORKS RIGHT.


Once again as a business person all you guys been rambling about thier service not being stupid but more of *******s.
Its a business guys remember.

Once one person gets SUCCESS and tells the world of it, then EVERYONE and thier children will ask for the same RMA reason.

Just saying this that way we don't get our blood pressure to high. But its the sad harsh truth! They made a board that works, but didnt make it good enough for enthusiasts like us.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> To be honest
> Once again as a business person all you guys been rambling about thier service not being stupid but more of *******s.
> Its a business guys remember.
> 
> Once one person gets SUCCESS and tells the world of it, then EVERYONE and thier children will ask for the same RMA reason.
> 
> Just saying this that way we don't get our blood pressure to high. But its the sad harsh truth! They made a board that works, but didnt make it good enough for enthusiasts like us.


I completely understand your perspective. They should have thought about that before releasing revisions rather then new boards all together. They coulda been smart about it and just put another name on it and called it something else. Rather then improving on what they had and calling it version 2.0. My main problem is, if a customer is un-happy with your product and is willing to spend the difference to upgrade to another product from your line. Rather then giving them there crappy motherboard back and having them sell it and go with a different brand due to the incompetence, as a business decision wouldn't it make the customer happier and keep that person for long term business if you just gave it to them for the price difference? Then they are happy, you still have there board that you claim has no issues so you can still sell as refurb or give to someone else as replacement. So theres no loss and you gain a customer who would stick around. I would be running an MSI board right now had they not stuck me with a peice of crap rather then an upgrade.. yeah i still have it.. but I boxed it up and bought my UD5... Gigabyte isnt any better when it comes to this situation, but like I said Id still be running MSI and probably would continue to buy MSI if they just would have upgraded me when I asked. Im sure the same goes for half the UD3 owners that sent theres back and ended up just selling it and going with a sabertooth. How many saberkitty owners would still have gigabyte in there system if they just would have offered up an upgrade, rather then giving back sub-par parts? Ive only been here for a few weeks and have seen numerous people turn to asus due to this. I am sure asus is the same way (just like msi did to me and gigabytes doing to anyone who asks) but this vicious circle gets nobody anywhere. What happened to good customer service? Establishing long term customers? Seems like a smart business decision to me to upsell anyways. Its like selling crappy item to someone that didnt want to pay the price then making them buy the good one when they come back to return the crappy one. They are unhappy they bought the bad one and feel much more confident once the good one works right and now youve made more money off them. Hows this bad business practice? Even if everyone else did the same thing, then you just sold 30 more ud5 to ud3 owners and now you have 30% more money and more expensive parts sold.


----------



## miklkit

Lawsuit? In this price range we are talking small claims court. It has been well over a decade since I last went there. IIRC there is a $50 filing fee and it is free from there on.

I've got a good case. On the installation dvd there is something called Easytune with Easyboost. This overclocking software decided that my 8350 would run best at 4.6 ghz.

So first Gigabyte includes overclocking software with their motherboard, but when the customer has problems at 4.5 ghz they claim the it is not their problem because it was overclocked.

Bingo!

For everyone else a class action lawsuit might work.


----------



## ffhounddog

With MicroCenter bundling them with the 8350 just wait for all the fun they might have if that happens. MicroCenter, Tiger Direct, and Frys will probally have the 1.1's-3.0's due to cost since they seem to get 20-30 boards a week.

The Gigabyte software has my 8350 running at 4250ghz and 4460 on turbo. I am like sure sounds good I guess. That means I do not have to do anything and if they look at the BIOS and I RMA it then they will know I did not OC the board.


----------



## ebduncan

only thing you can do is spread the word.

If gigabyte want to keep selling crap products, then make sure everyone you know doesn't buy from them. Giga's customer service isn't that bad, but they do make it seem like there is never anything wrong with there products. All I have to say to them if there is nothing wrong with your product, why have you revised it 5 times now?

oh well, i'm done with it. I have the ud3 rev 1.0, no llc, and a [email protected] 5ghz. So even if I have manged to secure a good overclock, this board has been replaced twice in under a year. First time dual channel mem stopped working. Second time the on board lan died. I won't be buying anymore gigabyte products end of story.


----------



## istudy92

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I completely understand your perspective. They should have thought about that before releasing revisions rather then new boards all together. They coulda been smart about it and just put another name on it and called it something else. Rather then improving on what they had and calling it version 2.0. My main problem is, if a customer is un-happy with your product and is willing to spend the difference to upgrade to another product from your line. Rather then giving them there crappy motherboard back and having them sell it and go with a different brand due to the incompetence, as a business decision wouldn't it make the customer happier and keep that person for long term business if you just gave it to them for the price difference? Then they are happy, you still have there board that you claim has no issues so you can still sell as refurb or give to someone else as replacement. So theres no loss and you gain a customer who would stick around. I would be running an MSI board right now had they not stuck me with a peice of crap rather then an upgrade.. yeah i still have it.. but I boxed it up and bought my UD5... Gigabyte isnt any better when it comes to this situation, but like I said Id still be running MSI and probably would continue to buy MSI if they just would have upgraded me when I asked. Im sure the same goes for half the UD3 owners that sent theres back and ended up just selling it and going with a sabertooth. How many saberkitty owners would still have gigabyte in there system if they just would have offered up an upgrade, rather then giving back sub-par parts? Ive only been here for a few weeks and have seen numerous people turn to asus due to this. I am sure asus is the same way (just like msi did to me and gigabytes doing to anyone who asks) but this vicious circle gets nobody anywhere. What happened to good customer service? Establishing long term customers? Seems like a smart business decision to me to upsell anyways. Its like selling crappy item to someone that didnt want to pay the price then making them buy the good one when they come back to return the crappy one. They are unhappy they bought the bad one and feel much more confident once the good one works right and now youve made more money off them. Hows this bad business practice? Even if everyone else did the same thing, then you just sold 30 more ud5 to ud3 owners and now you have 30% more money and more expensive parts sold.


I agree with you, I didnt mention the con because im typing on an ipad and it woulda been long, but kuddos u did it for me!

Gigabyte has lost me as a customer, and im a new one. That's all i gata say they lost a good buyer.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I completely understand your perspective. They should have thought about that before releasing revisions rather then new boards all together. They coulda been smart about it and just put another name on it and called it something else. Rather then improving on what they had and calling it version 2.0. My main problem is, if a customer is un-happy with your product and is willing to spend the difference to upgrade to another product from your line. Rather then giving them there crappy motherboard back and having them sell it and go with a different brand due to the incompetence, as a business decision wouldn't it make the customer happier and keep that person for long term business if you just gave it to them for the price difference? Then they are happy, you still have there board that you claim has no issues so you can still sell as refurb or give to someone else as replacement. So theres no loss and you gain a customer who would stick around. I would be running an MSI board right now had they not stuck me with a peice of crap rather then an upgrade.. yeah i still have it.. but I boxed it up and bought my UD5... Gigabyte isnt any better when it comes to this situation, but like I said Id still be running MSI and probably would continue to buy MSI if they just would have upgraded me when I asked. Im sure the same goes for half the UD3 owners that sent theres back and ended up just selling it and going with a sabertooth. How many saberkitty owners would still have gigabyte in there system if they just would have offered up an upgrade, rather then giving back sub-par parts? Ive only been here for a few weeks and have seen numerous people turn to asus due to this. I am sure asus is the same way (just like msi did to me and gigabytes doing to anyone who asks) but this vicious circle gets nobody anywhere. What happened to good customer service? Establishing long term customers? Seems like a smart business decision to me to upsell anyways. Its like selling crappy item to someone that didnt want to pay the price then making them buy the good one when they come back to return the crappy one. They are unhappy they bought the bad one and feel much more confident once the good one works right and now youve made more money off them. Hows this bad business practice? Even if everyone else did the same thing, then you just sold 30 more ud5 to ud3 owners and now you have 30% more money and more expensive parts sold.


The fact is no matter how we look at it the decidng factor is always money. They don't want to give it up so they will never do what needs to be done. They will always tell you that their test board din't display any of the problems you are describing. It is a losing battle that I am not going to fight anymore. I was told the other day to RMA my UD5 V1.0 board and they would test it. When I put in for the RMA they denied it so I am finished. I will never purchase anything gigabyte again. I will let my wallet(even though it will never make a dent in their revenue) be my protest.

Gigabyte was one of the best now they are just like everyone else.


----------



## miklkit

Did you know that 70% of the American economy is consumer driven? Our opinions DO count and our voices can be heard. Vote with your wallet.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Did you know that 70% of the American economy is consumer driven? Our opinions DO count and our voices can be heard. Vote with your wallet.


Exactly what I am saying but I am just one. Apparently more than just I and those on this thread are unhappy with Gigabyte though. So maybe they will get the picture.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Exactly what I am saying but I am just one. Apparently more than just I and those on this thread are unhappy with Gigabyte though. So maybe they will get the picture.


I've spread the word as much as I could, and some even spread it further and that's all we really can do.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I've spread the word as much as I could, and some even spread it further and that's all we really can do.


Yep well said.

By the way, did anyone ever find out what waterblock we can use on these U series motherboards? If I am stuck with it then I may as well try to cool these VRMs down. Not like it's going to void a warranty they would back.


----------



## dmfree88

hwinfo64 new release, fixes sensor default names for UD5 and im sure the rest of yours aswell


----------



## BulliteShot

Guys - wondering if you can help me. I intend to do watercooling and overclock and I really fancy the GA-990FXA-UD5. Fits my budget and is about the same price as the sabertooth. Everyone is telling me the sabertooth is more stable for overclocking but it looks crap IMO and doesn't fit in with my blue/black/nickel colour scheme.

What kind of overclock can I expect with an FX 8350 on a UD5?

Is there any overclock benefit with the UD7? What about the EK water block for the UD7 - is it worth it?

Edit: I forgot to say, I'm a current owner of a B75-D3V. I've been a huge gigabyte fan since I bought this board. All their features and looks tick the right boxes. I won't touch MSI anymore since I had a bad experience with a bad BIOS on their website bricked a couple of my boards. I also dislike Asus as I feel like their motherboards are packed with bloatware in order to do any of their advertised features such as temperature monitoring and inside-OS overclocking. Bah - screw that - BIOS is for overclocking IMO and nothing else.

Thanks


----------



## miklkit

Hajnalka waterblocked his board and was running at 4.8 ghz last I heard. It sounds like you have a good sensible plan.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BulliteShot*
> 
> Guys - wondering if you can help me. I intend to do watercooling and overclock and I really fancy the GA-990FXA-UD5. Fits my budget and is about the same price as the sabertooth. Everyone is telling me the sabertooth is more stable for overclocking but it looks crap IMO and doesn't fit in with my blue/black/nickel colour scheme.
> 
> What kind of overclock can I expect with an FX 8350 on a UD5?
> 
> Is there any overclock benefit with the UD7? What about the EK water block for the UD7 - is it worth it?
> 
> Edit: I forgot to say, I'm a current owner of a B75-D3V. I've been a huge gigabyte fan since I bought this board. All their features and looks tick the right boxes. I won't touch MSI anymore since I had a bad experience with a bad BIOS on their website bricked a couple of my boards. I also dislike Asus as I feel like their motherboards are packed with bloatware in order to do any of their advertised features such as temperature monitoring and inside-OS overclocking. Bah - screw that - BIOS is for overclocking IMO and nothing else.
> 
> Thanks


I own and have worked with the UD7 extensively (including my current game/design/render/modelng etc machine. I heavily OC and run quadfire so I really stress the board and VRM and the three UD7's I have have performed flawlessly and produce OC's as high or higher than any of the top end AM3+ boards available.
.

The looks of the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 is a subjective thing obliviously, but I hav worked with it and the ASUS Digital VRM (amongst other hardware features and qualities) make it a tremendous board and great overclocker.
here is my review of it if you care to have a look
http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/asus_sabertooth990fx_r2_review/


----------



## BulliteShot

Thanks


----------



## darkelixa

Hello,

GA-990FXA-UD3-R4 has come up for order at my local pc store. Its $20 cheaper than the asus sabertooth, is this board just as good or better than it?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3-R4 has come up for order at my local pc store. Its $20 cheaper than the asus sabertooth, is this board just as good or better than it?


No
Sabertooth is better.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3-R4 has come up for order at my local pc store. Its $20 cheaper than the asus sabertooth, is this board just as good or better than it?


sabertooth, the r4 would be interesting to try though


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> sabertooth, the r4 would be interesting to try though


Just tell him to take the R4 already so we can see how it performs...







i kid







my R3 seems to be doing okay though i still haven't figured out what's wrong with this system. The 970 Extreme4 was definitely faulty. Starting to think i have some PSU issues (fails to boot properly)


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Just tell him to take the R4 already so we can see how it performs...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i kid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my R3 seems to be doing okay though i still haven't figured out what's wrong with this system. The 970 Extreme4 was definitely faulty. Starting to think i have some PSU issues (fails to boot properly)


LOL yeah i want to know too. Thats weird your still having issues? Only thing you can really do is replace one part at a time, use a spare HDD if you have one, if that doesnt work try a older GPU, if all else fails try to find someone with a decent psu to let you test with. Of course if you dont have any of these things it makes it pretty difficult. I do know if its locking up during boot it can be as simple as the sata wire is bent between the HDD and the mobo. I spent 6 months trying to figure out why my computer (Dell XPS 600) kept randomly freezing, tried everything under the sun, finally i realize the dang sata cord was pinched from closing the massive door onto it. I didn't think it would really fix it but it never froze after replacing that. Anyways good luck, make sure you try EVERYTHING


----------



## dmfree88

anyone know what the official socket temp max is for the ud5 boards? (assume probably same for all models) Mine seems to sit 10 degrees above cpu temp, maxing out at 60 degrees cpu, the socket temp hits 70. I dont ever see any throttling issues but I was wondering where the safe temp max is? I plan to get a small fan for behind the mobo as soon as I can but currently have nothing that fits. Also should I expect the offset to change when I get a new cooler and increase clock? Will the socket end up being more then 10 degrees hotter then cpu? Or will it always be around the same offset? (of course depending on the addition of fans) If it is always going to be the same and I never expect to exceed 60* (or 70* socket) and that numbers safe, should I even worry about adding another fan?


----------



## istudy92

Get
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3-R4 has come up for order at my local pc store. Its $20 cheaper than the asus sabertooth, is this board just as good or better than it?


the 990 ud3 r4 if money is an issue, but i know from other posts r4 fixes the problem and the VRM heat sinks are COMPLETLY upgraded.


----------



## istudy92

Get
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkelixa*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3-R4 has come up for order at my local pc store. Its $20 cheaper than the asus sabertooth, is this board just as good or better than it?


the 990 ud3 r4 if money is an issue, but i know from other posts r4 fixes the problem and the VRM heat sinks are COMPLETLY upgraded.


----------



## miklkit

It looks like the R4 might fix the problem, but gigabyte has said that their boards are not made for overclocking and their support = no support.

Gigabyte is sending my old board back to me and is claiming there is nothing wrong with it. In the meantime I am very happy with my MSI 990FXA-GD80. It runs much cooler than the UD3 and has a much better bios. How much cooler does it run? I can touch the south bridge, north bridge, and the VRM cooler while it is under maximum stress and the north bridge is the only hot one. It almost burns the finger. Try that with a giggly anything @ 4.6 ghz.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It looks like the R4 might fix the problem, but gigabyte has said that their boards are not made for overclocking and their support = no support.
> 
> Gigabyte is sending my old board back to me and is claiming there is nothing wrong with it. In the meantime I am very happy with my MSI 990FXA-GD80. It runs much cooler than the UD3 and has a much better bios. How much cooler does it run? I can touch the south bridge, north bridge, and the VRM cooler while it is under maximum stress and the north bridge is the only hot one. It almost burns the finger. Try that with a giggly anything @ 4.6 ghz.


Ditto , i cant touch my board..it burns with an 8350 i had to downgrade to a 4300 which runs ALOT cooler!! But now im happy bc 4.7 OC isnt all bad


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It looks like the R4 might fix the problem, but gigabyte has said that their boards are not made for overclocking and their support = no support.
> 
> Gigabyte is sending my old board back to me and is claiming there is nothing wrong with it. In the meantime I am very happy with my MSI 990FXA-GD80. It runs much cooler than the UD3 and has a much better bios. How much cooler does it run? I can touch the south bridge, north bridge, and the VRM cooler while it is under maximum stress and the north bridge is the only hot one. It almost burns the finger. Try that with a giggly anything @ 4.6 ghz.


Maybe I got lucky getting rev 1.1 of the ud5, people seem to have problems with the rev3 version already, but my NB almost never increases in temp more then 15 degrees, even with the fan off my VRM heatsinks never get hot just barely warm, and the nb doesnt even get hot just warmer then the vrm. I guess I will see what happens when I get a real overclock on this 8350 but so far I am certainly happier with the UD5 more-so then my MSI 970a-g46, but thats also not a fair comparison. Either way I am not impressed with any customer service I have come across. I will say though MSI didnt ask questions just sent me back a different board, better then giga arguing and sending back the same one you had







.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> LOL yeah i want to know too. Thats weird your still having issues? Only thing you can really do is replace one part at a time, use a spare HDD if you have one, if that doesnt work try a older GPU, if all else fails try to find someone with a decent psu to let you test with. Of course if you dont have any of these things it makes it pretty difficult. I do know if its locking up during boot it can be as simple as the sata wire is bent between the HDD and the mobo. I spent 6 months trying to figure out why my computer (Dell XPS 600) kept randomly freezing, tried everything under the sun, finally i realize the dang sata cord was pinched from closing the massive door onto it. I didn't think it would really fix it but it never froze after replacing that. Anyways good luck, make sure you try EVERYTHING


Thanks man i just tried my TX 750 still having boot problems. I ran 15rds of IBT and 13 hours of prime 95 blend without problems. Then ran Furmark for 15 minute burn in, no problems. After Furmark tried to open coretemp BSOD lol. So going to run memtest, then try a new HDD, then try my 955 i just took out of my rig. Hell might have to rebuild the entire thing. I do have cables bent in places for cable management but nothing too strenuous compared to my main rig.


----------



## Tugz

curious, what bios is everyone using on the UD5 board? There a F12a beta, has anyone experienced issues using this bios? Does it really matter what bios i should use for overclocking?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tugz*
> 
> curious, what bios is everyone using on the UD5 board? There a F12a beta, has anyone experienced issues using this bios? Does it really matter what bios i should use for overclocking?


I'm currently using the F11, I'm not keen on using the beta BIOS updates as the last time I did (F10 beta IIRC) I experienced a lot of driver issues. F11 works pretty well for OCs... it really depends more on your cooling setup, available power, and having the patience to fine tune the overclock if you're going with a clock multi/HTT combination.


----------



## Tugz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I'm currently using the F11, I'm not keen on using the beta BIOS updates as the last time I did (F10 beta IIRC) I experienced a lot of driver issues. F11 works pretty well for OCs... it really depends more on your cooling setup, available power, and having the patience to fine tune the overclock if you're going with a clock multi/HTT combination.


Thank you for your response.


----------



## Blackops_2

*Faulty Dimm slots?*

Well still messing around with this 6300 build and finally got it to boot better so to speak. Lights still flickered on the LEDs on the CPU fan but with one stick in the 2nd dimm slot it pretty much booted up fine. With two sticks in there in 0 and 2 or 1 and 3 it fails to boot properly and i get blue screens. I'm using his memory in my build right now, with no problems.

I'm not ruling out the possibility this could be a CPU problem in which i'm about to put my phenom in the UD3 and see how it operates.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> *Faulty Dimm slots?*
> 
> Well still messing around with this 6300 build and finally got it to boot better so to speak. Lights still flickered on the LEDs on the CPU fan but with one stick in the 2nd dimm slot it pretty much booted up fine. With two sticks in there in 0 and 2 or 1 and 3 it fails to boot properly and i get blue screens. I'm using his memory in my build right now, with no problems.
> 
> I'm not ruling out the possibility this could be a CPU problem in which i'm about to put my phenom in the UD3 and see how it operates.


weird maybe trying upping the dram voltage a little bit? 1.550? see what happens?


----------



## MadGoat

I run 1.55v ram @ 2000mhz and 1.33v NB (IMC) @ 2500...

though i cant figure out my write speeds... its annoying me!


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> weird maybe trying upping the dram voltage a little bit? 1.550? see what happens?


Well i ran my blackline sticks in there on 1.65 which is what i run them at just to make sure his ram wasn't faulty, i've put his ram in my system now with no problems. Think is should try my 955 in the UD3?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Well i ran my blackline sticks in there on 1.65 which is what i run them at just to make sure his ram wasn't faulty, i've put his ram in my system now with no problems. Think is should try my 955 in the UD3?


its worth a shot, atleast try to determine whats going on.

Unrelated news heres a nice deal on the UD7:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1392228
Whole package deal not too bad.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Hahaha *sigh* overclocked my 1090T to 4.3 today, but and it's a big BUT I needed to up the vcore to 6 volts to compensate for the &*%$ vdroop







I tried locking the voltage via Overdrive and it ramped volts closer to 7 according to CPU-Z









I must have the worlds leakiest UD7


----------



## hajnalka

Gigabyte 99fxa-ud3 rev3 water cooling cpu and vrm and northbridge.


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> its worth a shot, atleast try to determine whats going on.
> 
> Unrelated news heres a nice deal on the UD7:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboBundleDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1392228
> Whole package deal not too bad.


Will do. Going to install it when it cools down up here a little. Here is the BSOD i got with a single stick of my mushkin blackline which has been the only way it would successfully boot properly. Instead of turning on then off then on again. If it does lie with the CPU it might be a decent thing because i can give my 955 to this person until the 6300 comes back from RMA.


----------



## lhuser

I have the Rev 3.0 board with a Phenom II X4 965 and the VRMs are pretty hot on stock. Lucky for me, I don't OC, but I did plan a FX-8350 to replace it and since they run with the same power, I'm wondering if it will remain as hot. Not too happy about hearing about that revision having overheat issues due to poor heatsink cooling. I plan on leaving it stock with a Cooler Master GT V6 cooling.

I also seem to suffer from a loose USB port, which is not much of an issue.


----------



## rationalthinking

With the UD3, does anyone else have difficulty OC'ing the NB and HT? I can't get any OC to on both of those components to post...!


----------



## dmfree88

i have the ud5 rev 1.1 and if i raise my nb clock at all no matter what the voltage is at i get windows aero fail. Drove me insane i give up, nb will be 2200 for me forever it seems. I dont know what the problem is i thought it was the 8350 have a set nb clock. I dont know though Im baffled aswell.


----------



## Blackops_2

Well sorry this took so long it took my phone forever to send the picture.


Anyhow i switched out the 6300 for the 955 and it boots up fine for the most part. A little flicker with the CPU heatsink LED light but it seems it's not having a problem, I'm going to game it on it all night and see if i have any problems.


----------



## dmfree88

have you already tried a different fan? does the light flicker only with the 955? maybe the 6300 is scared the fan is dead so it kills itself. where as the 955 waits longer for it to come back? I could be wrong but have u tried to see if a different fan has no flicker?


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> have you already tried a different fan? does the light flicker only with the 955? maybe the 6300 is scared the fan is dead so it kills itself. where as the 955 waits longer for it to come back? I could be wrong but have u tried to see if a different fan has no flicker?


I haven't but i'm not sure how i would take the fan off of the zalman 9500 that's on there now. Aslo the Fan is recognized in the BIOS IIRC.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lhuser*
> 
> I have the Rev 3.0 board with a Phenom II X4 965 and the VRMs are pretty hot on stock. Lucky for me, I don't OC, but I did plan a FX-8350 to replace it and since they run with the same power, I'm wondering if it will remain as hot. Not too happy about hearing about that revision having overheat issues due to poor heatsink cooling. I plan on leaving it stock with a Cooler Master GT V6 cooling.
> 
> I also seem to suffer from a loose USB port, which is not much of an issue.


bro do not, DO NOT get 8350 if you plan to OC it with that board.
I had to return my 8350 because i could not OC my 8350 sufficiently because the motherboard rev.3 would overheat to a point that my CPU was cool but everything else was hitting 90C+
And I believe 92C is the limit/

FX 6300 is the best CPU for this board.


----------



## dmfree88

some are successful with a fan on the vrm and a fan on the back of the vrm/cpu socket. Also better if you replace the thermal pads with more high grade thermal pads on the vrm. Then you might get some reasonable results, might even be worth replacing the heatsinks all together.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> some are successful with a fan on the vrm and a fan on the back of the vrm/cpu socket. Also better if you replace the thermal pads with more high grade thermal pads on the vrm. Then you might get some reasonable results, might even be worth replacing the heatsinks all together.


Agreed but with all that hassle mine as well get a dang ud 5 or find someway to get ud3 rev4


----------



## Blackops_2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Agreed but with all that hassle mine as well get a dang ud 5 or find someway to get ud3 rev4


At that rate honestly i'd just go with an Asus sabertooth. If my experience mirrors the rest which it seems to it's just a great board with little problems. Or so i've come to believe. That and i just much prefer Asus's BIOS at least between the UD3 and my Sabertooth.

I also think i've got a defect 6300, so going to talk to the egg about replacing it. Think i should refund the UD3 as well and just get a M5A99FX PRO?

Realistically the person this build is for wont be OCed for quite some time and if games take the rout that C3 took considering the new consoles he wont need to. Idk because i can hand it to him Wed if I don't run into any problems with my 955, but then i know i messed up getting him the UD3.


----------



## ffhounddog

Understand the reasons on overclock. My UD3 rev3.0 with 8350 is at 4.24 stock. The board set it that way. It has not gone above 4.33 on turbo but that is fine nothing I am doing needs more power yet. This build has already gone over budget. SSD drive vice using a HDD drive. Bought Win8,16 GB verse 8 GB of ram etc etc....


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering if anyone can tell me if the new UD3 rev 4.0 is better at overclocking compared to the rev 1.1?

Currently using a 1055T, but I maybe getting a 8350.

All the features appear the same, but is there better quality products used in the rev 4.0 or something?


----------



## miklkit

Ok, the last email I got from Gigabyte said they were done testing my UD3 R3 and were sending it back. Great! I started making plans on what to do with that warped POS. Maybe something for a Grandchild to do homework on?

Well, last night it came in. I opened the package and was met with a brand new board! And it's a UD3 R4 at that!







Well, that's one way to shut me up.

So later today I will be tearing my onlyest puter apart once more and replacing the MSI 990FXA-GD80 with a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R4. The GD80 is far far better than the UD3 R3 and is my benchmark. How good is the UD3 R4? Stay tuned!









Is the R4 even in stores yet?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ok, the last email I got from Gigabyte said they were done testing my UD3 R3 and were sending it back. Great! I started making plans on what to do with that warped POS. Maybe something for a Grandchild to do homework on?
> 
> Well, last night it came in. I opened the package and was met with a brand new board! And it's a UD3 R4 at that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that's one way to shut me up.
> 
> So later today I will be tearing my onlyest puter apart once more and replacing the MSI 990FXA-GD80 with a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R4. The GD80 is far far better than the UD3 R3 and is my benchmark. How good is the UD3 R4? Stay tuned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the R4 even in stores yet?


Wow, yes the R4 is in stores but I don't know if they have them stocked everywhere yet as some places are probably still selling their stock of R3.

I don't get Gigabyte at all, they say one thing and do another. I wonder if they figure out they sent you a new revision if they will tell you to send it back. haha


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackops_2*
> 
> Realistically the person this build is for wont be OCed for quite some time and if games take the rout that C3 took considering the new consoles he wont need to. Idk because i can hand it to him Wed if I don't run into any problems with my 955, but then i know i messed up getting him the UD3.


You can't really say you messed up, the flaws in the R3 really do go unnoticed by a lot of people, it's not till you get the board you find out about all the problems it has.

Our reviews on it always end up sinking to the bottom of all the "Amazing board get it" reviews so people who just take a look at the good to semi good reviews will not see the problems, you also have the issue of the revisions not having separate store pages so all the reviews are also mixed between the revisions. I'm sure if you tell him most of things you've learned he can grasp has stupid the whole experience has been, personally I've learned two things from my build.

1. Sapphire GPUs are sorta "meh" and their RMA service is kinda crap because they outsource it.









2.Gigabyte products should be skipped for a while and the motherboard all together, as if the problems I've had aren't bad enough they are pretty well known for being terrible at giving BIOS updates and having bad BIOS's and I don't feel like wasting time on that crap.


----------



## Blackops_2

I'm definitely not wild about their BIOS. I'm wondering if i could set my 955 to 3.6 like i had it on my sabertooth. The UD3 has the stock volts for the 955 at 1.4v which is high because i was running that OC at 1.375 on my sabertooth.

Went ahead and RMAed the 6300 and the UD3 for refund. Just can't give him this build with that board knowing full well the problems with it. I'll pay for it in the long run if the thing goes down.


----------



## multichrome

Hey guys I need some help overclocking on this board. I have an FX-8320 with the rev3.0 UD3, with FC bios. I cannot overclock AT ALL. Here's the troubles I've been having:

1) Turbo cannot be turned off. I've gone into the BIOS and turned off Cool n Quiet, Turbo mode, and enabled CPU unlock, and CPUZ still shows a 7.5 - 20 multiplier range.
2) Without tampering with voltage settings, I hear many people are able to push their 8320/8350s to 4.2GHz easily. When I push the CPU TURBO multiplier up to 4.1 (keep in mind the CPU still un-turbos to 3.7GHz) my computer takes three tries to boot up -- something that is usually associated with too high of an overclock.
3) RAM overclocking does not work either -- I turn the frequency to 933 (which should get me a 1866 speed rating) and my system still reads it as 1600.

Anyone have a step-by-step way to overclock with this edition? I can't get anything to work.


----------



## mayford5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hajnalka waterblocked his board and was running at 4.8 ghz last I heard. It sounds like you have a good sensible plan.


Do you remember what waterblock he used for hi board?

Thanks


----------



## Lazorbeam

If anyone finds a supplier with REV 4.0 UD3 boards on-hand, please post here!

Oh, and while I'm here, the UD3 is on sale for $129.99 on NCIX.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> 
> 
> Gigabyte 99fxa-ud3 rev3 water cooling cpu and vrm and northbridge.


Could you tell us what waterblocks you used in your setup? Shucks, how about a signature rig?


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

New bios for the ud5 rev 3 out now, will try it tomrrow and see if i can reach 5ghz but doubt it. I have already flashed my mobo with it and taken a look in bios and didnt see any change. Was hoping for the option to raise the volt to the NB, but nope. Will NEVER buy a gigabyte part, and will tell m8s not to get there piece of **** gear! At the Fcb beta bios i was stable at 4.8ghz with the kuhler 920 just under 62c. So lets see how this bios clocks tomorrow!


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *multichrome*
> 
> Hey guys I need some help overclocking on this board. I have an FX-8320 with the rev3.0 UD3, with FC bios. I cannot overclock AT ALL. Here's the troubles I've been having:
> 
> 1) Turbo cannot be turned off. I've gone into the BIOS and turned off Cool n Quiet, Turbo mode, and enabled CPU unlock, and CPUZ still shows a 7.5 - 20 multiplier range.
> 2) Without tampering with voltage settings, I hear many people are able to push their 8320/8350s to 4.2GHz easily. When I push the CPU TURBO multiplier up to 4.1 (keep in mind the CPU still un-turbos to 3.7GHz) my computer takes three tries to boot up -- something that is usually associated with too high of an overclock.
> 3) RAM overclocking does not work either -- I turn the frequency to 933 (which should get me a 1866 speed rating) and my system still reads it as 1600.
> 
> Anyone have a step-by-step way to overclock with this edition? I can't get anything to work.


All I could do with my UD3 was bump up the cpu multiplyer to 22.5 and its volts by one click (+0.025V). I did get CnQ turned off but don't remember how. Will be relearning all that tonight and tomorrow.

The multiple boots is a feature of the Gigabyte bios. Nothing is wrong and it can be ignored.

If you can, mount a fan on your VRM cooler.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ok, the last email I got from Gigabyte said they were done testing my UD3 R3 and were sending it back. Great! I started making plans on what to do with that warped POS. Maybe something for a Grandchild to do homework on?
> 
> Well, last night it came in. I opened the package and was met with a brand new board! And it's a UD3 R4 at that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, that's one way to shut me up.
> 
> So later today I will be tearing my onlyest puter apart once more and replacing the MSI 990FXA-GD80 with a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R4. The GD80 is far far better than the UD3 R3 and is my benchmark. How good is the UD3 R4? Stay tuned!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the R4 even in stores yet?


Can you explain how you broke ur board??
I want mine replaced its so useless that i cannot use 8350 OC bc of heat problems=[


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> New bios for the ud5 rev 3 out now, will try it tomrrow and see if i can reach 5ghz but doubt it. I have already flashed my mobo with it and taken a look in bios and didnt see any change. Was hoping for the option to raise the volt to the NB, but nope. Will NEVER buy a gigabyte part, and will tell m8s not to get there piece of **** gear! At the Fcb beta bios i was stable at 4.8ghz with the kuhler 920 just under 62c. So lets see how this bios clocks tomorrow!


Could you point me to the new bios? It isn't listed on the official site yet.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *multichrome*
> 
> Hey guys I need some help overclocking on this board. I have an FX-8320 with the rev3.0 UD3, with FC bios. I cannot overclock AT ALL. Here's the troubles I've been having:
> 
> 1) Turbo cannot be turned off. I've gone into the BIOS and turned off Cool n Quiet, Turbo mode, and enabled CPU unlock, and CPUZ still shows a 7.5 - 20 multiplier range.
> 2) Without tampering with voltage settings, I hear many people are able to push their 8320/8350s to 4.2GHz easily. When I push the CPU TURBO multiplier up to 4.1 (keep in mind the CPU still un-turbos to 3.7GHz) my computer takes three tries to boot up -- something that is usually associated with too high of an overclock.
> 3) RAM overclocking does not work either -- I turn the frequency to 933 (which should get me a 1866 speed rating) and my system still reads it as 1600.
> 
> Anyone have a step-by-step way to overclock with this edition? I can't get anything to work.


disable all power saving features and try to disable turbo. Dont know why it wont let you. disable c6e state and the other with a similar name. You should probably start by putting a fan on your VRM aswell so you dont have future problems.


----------



## Blackops_2

Make sure to disable APM as well.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> You can't really say you messed up, the flaws in the R3 really do go unnoticed by a lot of people, it's not till you get the board you find out about all the problems it has.
> 
> Our reviews on it always end up sinking to the bottom of all the "Amazing board get it" reviews so people who just take a look at the good to semi good reviews will not see the problems, you also have the issue of the revisions not having separate store pages so all the reviews are also mixed between the revisions. I'm sure if you tell him most of things you've learned he can grasp has stupid the whole experience has been, personally I've learned two things from my build.
> 
> 1. Sapphire GPUs are sorta "meh" and their RMA service is kinda crap because they outsource it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2.Gigabyte products should be skipped for a while and the motherboard all together, as if the problems I've hard aren't bad enough they are pretty well known for being terrible at giving BIOS updates and having bad BIOS's and I don't feel like wasting time on that crap.


+Repped.
I complete agree with you regarding Sapphire and Gigabyte, too bad we learned it the hard way.


----------



## lhuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> bro do not, DO NOT get 8350 if you plan to OC it with that board.
> I had to return my 8350 because i could not OC my 8350 sufficiently because the motherboard rev.3 would overheat to a point that my CPU was cool but everything else was hitting 90C+
> And I believe 92C is the limit/
> 
> FX 6300 is the best CPU for this board.


I don't plan on overclocking, but it looks like I will have to buy a new board...bummer. I still have my 880GMA-UD2H, but I upgraded it so I could get the most out of the 8350.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Can you explain how you broke ur board??
> I want mine replaced its so useless that i cannot use 8350 OC bc of heat problems=[


I did not break that UD3 R3. It was running at 4.5 ghz and all was well until one day while gaming the game started running poorly. I got out and checked HW monitor and the temps were 80C! I looked at the fans and they were running at low idle speed. The bios did not speed them up when the temperatures went up. I shut it down but it was too late and the board was warped from the heat. It always ran hot after that.

The UD3 R4 is up and running. There were onlt two problems so far.

1) The cpu is mounted a bit higher on the board. This made installing the cpu heat sink fan a big problem. It got done but took more time than anything else.

2) The bios did not want to boot the hard drive I want it to and kept booting the other one. I finally got it to see things my way and it is up and running with all stock settings.

It seems to be idling on the warm side but it has to be better than the R3.



Here you can see the difference in size between the R4 heat sink and the Enzotech, which is the same size as the R3.



Here you can see how high in the case the heat sink sits. Getting the fan mounted was quite difficult.



Tomorrow I will see about cranking her up.


----------



## cutepuppy671

Has anyone figured out how to get finer control over the CPU voltage. the .25v jumps are really too large.

for my x6 1075t, I need to use 1.475 to keep the CPU stable but with the LLC on regular, the voltage jumps to over 1.5v

and sadly the 9990fxa-ud3 does not allow me to disable LLC so the lowest I can set it is regular.

at 1.45v it will fail the prime 95 test after a while, but with how borderline this is, somewhere between 1.45 and 1.475 is a stable voltage that allows me to avoid more heat than needed.

My CPU is not a good overclocker and I need the 1.475 to get about 3.81GHz and 4GHz required a little over 1.5V but LLC just makes the temperatures horrible (eg 75-79C) (at which point i stop prime 95

especially since the Phenom II seem to list 62C as the max temperature.


----------



## multichrome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> All I could do with my UD3 was bump up the cpu multiplyer to 22.5 and its volts by one click (+0.025V). I did get CnQ turned off but don't remember how. Will be relearning all that tonight and tomorrow.
> 
> The multiple boots is a feature of the Gigabyte bios. Nothing is wrong and it can be ignored.
> 
> If you can, mount a fan on your VRM cooler.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> disable all power saving features and try to disable turbo. Dont know why it wont let you. disable c6e state and the other with a similar name. You should probably start by putting a fan on your VRM aswell so you dont have future problems.


So how do I go about cooling the VRM? Do I just get 2 80mm fans and slap them on the VRM heatsinks to the left and below the CPU like this?


----------



## highc1157

Ok guys so I have been doing a TON of research on 8350 + 990fxa-ud3 rev 3 boards and I'm STUCK with my AMD build now because I did not know about these throttling issues and stuff

If I get the 8350 is there anything I can do to stop this and achieve a good OC w/ no throttling?

I saw a few pages back somebody mentioned to turn on APM and theres no option in my BIOS for this.

WHat do I need to do to ensure my 8350 and 990fxa-ud3 can run well together? I'm only asking because I can't find solid ideas to fix these problems


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I did not break that UD3 R3. It was running at 4.5 ghz and all was well until one day while gaming the game started running poorly. I got out and checked HW monitor and the temps were 80C! I looked at the fans and they were running at low idle speed. The bios did not speed them up when the temperatures went up. I shut it down but it was too late and the board was warped from the heat. It always ran hot after that.
> 
> The UD3 R4 is up and running. There were onlt two problems so far.
> 
> 1) The cpu is mounted a bit higher on the board. This made installing the cpu heat sink fan a big problem. It got done but took more time than anything else.
> 
> 2) The bios did not want to boot the hard drive I want it to and kept booting the other one. I finally got it to see things my way and it is up and running with all stock settings.
> 
> It seems to be idling on the warm side but it has to be better than the R3.
> 
> Here you can see the difference in size between the R4 heat sink and the Enzotech, which is the same size as the R3.
> 
> Here you can see how high in the case the heat sink sits. Getting the fan mounted was quite difficult.
> 
> Tomorrow I will see about cranking her up.


Definitely keep us posted on how it works. I can't believe they gave you the run around and then sent you a Rev 4... They are something else.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> Ok guys so I have been doing a TON of research on 8350 + 990fxa-ud3 rev 3 boards and I'm STUCK with my AMD build now because I did not know about these throttling issues and stuff
> 
> If I get the 8350 is there anything I can do to stop this and achieve a good OC w/ no throttling?
> 
> I saw a few pages back somebody mentioned to turn on APM and theres no option in my BIOS for this.
> 
> WHat do I need to do to ensure my 8350 and 990fxa-ud3 can run well together? I'm only asking because I can't find solid ideas to fix these problems


I recommend a new VRM heatsink for starters. Also you need to verify whether or not your board is warped. If your board is warped you need to "shim" it so its flat again. Then install the VRM heatsink and place at least an 80mm fan right on top of it.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *multichrome*
> 
> So how do I go about cooling the VRM? Do I just get 2 80mm fans and slap them on the VRM heatsinks to the left and below the CPU like this?


that would be optimal if you can. The main one is the one to the left of the cpu socket. The one underneath the cpu is the northbridge which usually does ok for most. You can always add a fan to help keep extra cool though.


----------



## highc1157

I recommend a new VRM heatsink for starters. Also you need to verify whether or not your board is warped. If your board is warped you need to "shim" it so its flat again. Then install the VRM heatsink and place at least an 80mm fan right on top of it.[/quote]

I'm a noob at this, can you link me to the products I'll need to do this? Many thanks

Maybe also outline how to do this, with a picture?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> I recommend a new VRM heatsink for starters. Also you need to verify whether or not your board is warped. If your board is warped you need to "shim" it so its flat again. Then install the VRM heatsink and place at least an 80mm fan right on top of it.


I'm a noob at this, can you link me to the products I'll need to do this? Many thanks

Maybe also outline how to do this, with a picture?[/quote]

i have 12mm fan standing on the GPU blowing air on the CPU/NB and the VRM.

Pictures in my profile page


----------



## highc1157

Now I bought my Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 at fry's 12 days ago and I have another 2 days to return it; however, I would not like to spend extra money because Im on a tight budget and the only other board at Fry's Electronics is an Asus MSA99X evo for $140 vs the $150 for my Gigabyte. So...is it a wise choice for overclocking my 8350 which I'm going to buy in a few days to return my mobo and get the asus one? WHich is better for overclocking an 8350?


----------



## ffhounddog

If you can I would get the Asus board. It is what I should have gotten but I was cheap. If you can take it back get the Asus board and do not look back. Mine is stable but for how long? I do not know.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> Now I bought my Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 at fry's 12 days ago and I have another 2 days to return it; however, I would not like to spend extra money because Im on a tight budget and the only other board at Fry's Electronics is an Asus MSA99X evo for $140 vs the $150 for my Gigabyte. So...is it a wise choice for overclocking my 8350 which I'm going to buy in a few days to return my mobo and get the asus one? WHich is better for overclocking an 8350?


the best choice would be the Asus sabertooth or like me the gigabyte 990FXA UD5 with better heat sinks and better power phase.

I run my 8350 at 5ghz with no problems at all for weeks now









If you want for high overclocks i would highly suggest to get the Asus sabertooth or the UD5 but make sure its the revision 1.1 witsh has load line control


----------



## highc1157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> the best choice would be the Asus sabertooth or like me the gigabyte 990FXA UD5 with better heat sinks and better power phase.
> 
> I run my 8350 at 5ghz with no problems at all for weeks now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want for high overclocks i would highly suggest to get the Asus sabertooth or the UD5 but make sure its the revision 1.1 witsh has load line control


Thanks ! But I don't have the money for those, it's either keep my 990fxa
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> the best choice would be the Asus sabertooth or like me the gigabyte 990FXA UD5 with better heat sinks and better power phase.
> 
> I run my 8350 at 5ghz with no problems at all for weeks now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want for high overclocks i would highly suggest to get the Asus sabertooth or the UD5 but make sure its the revision 1.1 witsh has load line control


Thanks! However it's either keep my 990fxa-ud3 or go with the Asus one I mentioned ! Between those choices what do u think for oc between 4.5-5 ? Asus one oc we'll?


----------



## multichrome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> that would be optimal if you can. The main one is the one to the left of the cpu socket. The one underneath the cpu is the northbridge which usually does ok for most. You can always add a fan to help keep extra cool though.


Wouldn't that blow the hot air from the CPU directly into the VRM though?


----------



## miklkit

Multichrome: Click on hurricane28's avatar and then click on "cars". He has a 120mm fan blowing on the stock VRM cooler.

As for aftermarket VRM coolers I have tried both the Enzotech mst-88 and the Thermalright HR-09U type 2 and the Thermalright is around 5C better probably because it is a heat pipe design. Oh, and what a warped board looks like.


----------



## miklkit

This is unbelievable. After posting here I started tinkering with this R4, trying to get it to show the CPU fan like it was yesterday.
looked in the case, looked again, and pulled off the side cover. The CPU fan was not turning!!









It is a good thing I have good case air flow because the temperatures were ok even with no cpu fan. So I blew on it and it started turning. So what is it? A bad bios or a bad circuit in the motherboard?

This is what fried the R3 and now the R4 is doing it.







Can one RMA an RMA?


----------



## ffhounddog

I think I am just going to add another fan.

I wonder if I really need that ram fan cooler on that thing.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> This is unbelievable. After posting here I started tinkering with this R4, trying to get it to show the CPU fan like it was yesterday.
> looked in the case, looked again, and pulled off the side cover. The CPU fan was not turning!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a good thing I have good case air flow because the temperatures were ok even with no cpu fan. So I blew on it and it started turning. So what is it? A bad bios or a bad circuit in the motherboard?
> 
> This is what fried the R3 and now the R4 is doing it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can one RMA an RMA?


Thats a bad CPU fan my friend. It's drawing too much amperage to get moving. Replace the fan!


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Thats a bad CPU fan my friend. It's drawing too much amperage to get moving. Replace the fan!


Agreed, I had one do that on my old Cooler Master heat sink. Really sucked too because I liked the fan.


----------



## miklkit

Hmm. Well the cpu fan is cheap and I was thinking about buying a couple more anyway.

But! I rebooted and the fan is running and it shows up too. It's running at 1600-1700 rpm with the system idling. It peaks at over 2,000rpm.

Other stuff is showing up now too, like the PMBus VR. It was not showing earlier. It is also not reading the memory properly. Take a close look at the 2 pics I posted earlier.

There is also a startup issue. I turn on the monitor and hit the power button and everything starts up for a second then shuts down for 5-6 seconds and then starts up again. But it goes no farther. I then hit the reset button and this time it boots fine.

I do want to push this board a bit and see how it works, but it's acting oddly right from the start.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hmm. Well the cpu fan is cheap and I was thinking about buying a couple more anyway.
> 
> But! I rebooted and the fan is running and it shows up too. It's running at 1600-1700 rpm with the system idling. It peaks at over 2,000rpm.
> 
> Other stuff is showing up now too, like the PMBus VR. It was not showing earlier. It is also not reading the memory properly. Take a close look at the 2 pics I posted earlier.
> 
> There is also a startup issue. I turn on the monitor and hit the power button and everything starts up for a second then shuts down for 5-6 seconds and then starts up again. But it goes no farther. I then hit the reset button and this time it boots fine.
> 
> I do want to push this board a bit and see how it works, but it's acting oddly right from the start.


Hmmm, perhaps they sent you a dud. Well I hope not because you're gonna have to deal with their "support" again.


----------



## miklkit

Now I can't play games either. Video card drivers crashed. Deleted and reinstalled everything and it still crashes.

I don't have the patience for this. Anyone want a slightly used motherboard cheap?


----------



## dmfree88

$20 bucks you pay shipping


----------



## itomic

Does anyone know this new BIOS for UD-5 REV 3.0 ? Is this one better for overclocking ??


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Does anyone know this new BIOS for UD-5 REV 3.0 ? Is this one better for overclocking ??


What bios are you referring to?


----------



## itomic

FCb


----------



## istudy92

Hey guys does the gigabyte fxa990 ud3 have some sort of integrated graphics?? Cause I plan on selling my sapphire 7950 dual x but want to know if I can still watch videos and such


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> $20 bucks you pay shipping


Shipping costs more than that. I'll just take a hammer to it.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Hey guys does the gigabyte fxa990 ud3 have some sort of integrated graphics?? Cause I plan on selling my sapphire 7950 dual x but want to know if I can still watch videos and such


No, it can't output video







.


----------



## istudy92

What a useless board...


----------



## multichrome

Has anyone figured out to fine tune the voltage settings on this board? So I've taken the advice of disabling C1, C6, HPC, etc. and have gotten to an (almost) stable 4.4OC on my FX-8320 @1.38v. When I ran Prime95 though I got a failure one core so I'm thinking raising the vcore SLIGHTLY will fix that problem. My bios only lets me increase by .25v at a time, and one setting up is too much (brings me to 1.404v).

AMD Overdrive lets me tune it just where I want it, but for some reason it never saves the OC and just resets to my BIOS settings when I restart. (Lowering frequency on a single core is greyed out so that's not an option for me)


----------



## istudy92

Yes increase voltage by .5 prime it if it works lower ..25 but .5 will give u headroom for you


----------



## dmfree88

ill trade + cash a 560ti boost for your 7950


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> FCb


I've been running it for awhile now. Let's see.... they added apm to the bios letting you choose to turn it on or off. It made my Corsair 1866 ram more stable. Other than that I can't think of much to say about it. Other than adding apm and cpu agesa for the fx 9xxx chips probably not much changed from FB.


----------



## highc1157

HWINFO64 saying only one core clocked at 3.9GHz!?!? I have the latest bios FC and rev.3 board

Do the readings look okay though for all aspects ?

What's going on I have cool and quiet and c1e disabled. This is what my bios shows

http://postimg.org/image/pnhjpabxx/full/
screenshot app

http://postimg.org/image/t4uundydf/full/
screenshot app

here's my rig:

_-Phenom II x4 965 OC'd to 3.9Ghz w/ 2400MHz NB
-Gigabyte 760 GTX Windforce factory OC plus aftermarket OC = 1332MHz core and 7GB mem clock
-8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro Series 1600MHz/ 9-9-9-24 / 1.5V
-Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
-Corsair H60 cooler
-650W Antec Earthwatts
-Antec 900 Case
-150GB HDD_


----------



## Blackops_2

Had the same problem when i tried to OC my 955 to 3.6 like i had it in my sabertooth. All software read that only one core was OCed.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> HWINFO64 saying only one core clocked at 3.9GHz!?!? I have the latest bios FC and rev.3 board
> 
> Do the readings look okay though for all aspects ?
> 
> What's going on I have cool and quiet and c1e disabled. This is what my bios shows
> 
> http://postimg.org/image/pnhjpabxx/full/
> screenshot app
> 
> http://postimg.org/image/t4uundydf/full/
> screenshot app
> 
> here's my rig:
> 
> _-Phenom II x4 965 OC'd to 3.9Ghz w/ 2400MHz NB
> -Gigabyte 760 GTX Windforce factory OC plus aftermarket OC = 1332MHz core and 7GB mem clock
> -8GB Corsair Vengeance Pro Series 1600MHz/ 9-9-9-24 / 1.5V
> -Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
> -Corsair H60 cooler
> -650W Antec Earthwatts
> -Antec 900 Case
> -150GB HDD_




sorry i dont have uefi bios mines rev 1.1 of the ud5 and comes with old school







. But did you disable all those features? and disable turbo core?


----------



## Sazz

so I just wanna verify this, the one that has throttling issues due to VRM temps problem is rev 3.0? are rev 1.0 and 1.1 (the one I have) not affected by this problem?

I recently switched the VRM heatsink to this one, doesn't fit off the box (w/o the mounting brackets it slides in perfectly, but once you put the mounting brackets on its too wide that it hits capacitors and stuff on each side so I had to do some modifications on it to be able to mount it, it was easy enough just cut off the mounting kits and with super glue)

dropped my VRMP temps by 5C under load. (from 50C to 45) and if I put a fan there It probably can go down 3 more celsius.


----------



## dmfree88

No throttling issues on ud5 rev 1.1 at the moment. but i havent got a big OC on it yet. waiting for a better cooler.

What are you monitoring VRM temps with? they didnt add a sensor to the rev 3 did they?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Shipping costs more than that. I'll just take a hammer to it.


Kill it with fire!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> so I just wanna verify this, the one that has throttling issues due to VRM temps problem is rev 3.0? are rev 1.0 and 1.1 (the one I have) not affected by this problem?
> 
> I recently switched the VRM heatsink to this one, doesn't fit off the box (w/o the mounting brackets it slides in perfectly, but once you put the mounting brackets on its too wide that it hits capacitors and stuff on each side so I had to do some modifications on it to be able to mount it, it was easy enough just cut off the mounting kits and with super glue)
> 
> dropped my VRMP temps by 5C under load. (from 50C to 45) and if I put a fan there It probably can go down 3 more celsius.


As far as I know and seen Rev 1 and Rev 1.1 boards do not suffer from the crippling heat and warping that the Rev 3 boards do. Since you also went ahead and put a nice heatsink on the VRM's I'd say you are probably safe though a fan would never hurt.


----------



## highc1157

yea I did, its also saying it in amd overdrive that only one core is 3.9 and the rest are 3.4 !?


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> yea I did, its also saying it in amd overdrive that only one core is 3.9 and the rest are 3.4 !?


Do you have APM off?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> yea I did, its also saying it in amd overdrive that only one core is 3.9 and the rest are 3.4 !?


HPC may need to be enabled or disabled possibly try both


----------



## highc1157

on my 965BE, i see no bios options to turn either APM or HPM off/on !!!


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> on my 965BE, i see no bios options to turn either APM or HPM off/on !!!


Oh I thought you were using FX chip, anyway I assume you got K8 (Cool-n-quiet) off as well? otherwise I don't see anything that could be causing it. try to do a clear CMOS, then re-do your overclock and see if that clear things up.


----------



## highc1157

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> Oh I thought you were using FX chip, anyway I assume you got K8 (Cool-n-quiet) off as well? otherwise I don't see anything that could be causing it. try to do a clear CMOS, then re-do your overclock and see if that clear things up.


okay thanks. Unfortunately I couldn;t tell you if this problem occured before I updated from FB to FC which i did yesterday, as well as install HWINFO64 the same day after FC was updated. So maybe this happened before bios update, maybe not...will never know!

I'll try a clear CMOS

thannk ya!


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> okay thanks. Unfortunately I couldn;t tell you if this problem occured before I updated from FB to FC which i did yesterday, as well as install HWINFO64 the same day after FC was updated. So maybe this happened before bios update, maybe not...will never know!
> 
> I'll try a clear CMOS
> 
> thannk ya!


try reverting things back before you did those updates and do the overclock, if things were working fine before you did the update maybe one of them two things you did is causing the problem?


----------



## Lazorbeam

If anyone cares, I ordered a UD3 from NCIX for 129.99 and got a rev 3.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> Do you have APM off?


UD3 R3 has no APM option, once again we head back to the whole Gigabyte sucks at updating BIOS's thing. They said they were gonna add it back in April, as you can see never happened instead they just made a whole new motherboard gotta love all the support they give their products.


----------



## istudy92

Yeah lets not get into APM....just search APM within this thread with search option..ull find all the info...gigabyte swears turning off certain crap disables APM


----------



## itomic

I updated this new BIOS for my UD-5 REV 3.0. BIOS is FBc. It rebooted just fine, but when i tried to enter the BIOS i didnt happend !! I tried more then one time and didnt get it. After that i did Clear CMOS ( removed battery ) and rebooted, but i still couldnt enter BIOS. Everytime i press END key it just freeezd my computer. Then i get angry and flashed back FB BIOS. Now everything is good again. So, this new BETA BIOS does not work for me. I will wait for non BETA version.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> I updated this new BIOS for my UD-5 REV 3.0. BIOS is FBc. It rebooted just fine, but when i tried to enter the BIOS i didnt happend !! I tried more then one time and didnt get it. After that i did Clear CMOS ( removed battery ) and rebooted, but i still couldnt enter BIOS. Everytime i press END key it just freeezd my computer. Then i get angry and flashed back FB BIOS. Now everything is good again. So, this new BETA BIOS does not work for me. I will wait for non BETA version.


Last time I checked it was the "DEL" key that got me into the bios...


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> UD3 R3 has no APM option, once again we head back to the whole Gigabyte sucks at updating BIOS's thing. They said they were gonna add it back in April, as you can see never happened instead they just made a whole new motherboard gotta love all the support they give their products.


No, UD3 do have APM option. but its only available for FX chips.. and maybe only available on rev 1.1 and latest.


----------



## MadGoat

My rev 1.0 has APM option...

Disabled, but it's there


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Last time I checked it was the "DEL" key that got me into the bios...










HAA HAAA HAAHAA


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> My rev 1.0 has APM option...
> 
> Disabled, but it's there


same here


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> Thanks ! But I don't have the money for those, it's either keep my 990fxa
> Thanks! However it's either keep my 990fxa-ud3 or go with the Asus one I mentioned ! Between those choices what do u think for oc between 4.5-5 ? Asus one oc we'll?


Okay,

Yes that Asus board will serve you good, the Asus is the better choice than the UD3 because it has better VRM cooling on it, but if you want the UD3 i would highly suggest get aftermarket VRM coolers.

If you are planning to get 5gzh be aware that not all CPU's can do that and make sure you have good cooling


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> No, UD3 do have APM option. but its only available for FX chips.. and maybe only available on rev 1.1 and latest.


Read my post again, I said R3(revision 3) it's a specific thing that they have neglected to add in the BIOS for revision 3.


----------



## multichrome

Ok so my 80mm fan arrived in the mail today for VRM cooling... with the small problem of how the heck am I supposed to mount that thing?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *multichrome*
> 
> Ok so my 80mm fan arrived in the mail today for VRM cooling... with the small problem of how the heck am I supposed to mount that thing?


You will find that standard fan screws will fit into the HS fins nicely.


----------



## multichrome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> You will find that standard fan screws will fit into the HS fins nicely.


Alrighty, I'll try that. Screw it in the VRM heatsink yes?

One more question: Should it push air into the VRM or pull air from it? I feel like push would bring the hot air from my Hyper 212 Evo directly into the VRM, which might not exactly make it cooler...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *multichrome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> You will find that standard fan screws will fit into the HS fins nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> Alrighty, I'll try that. Screw it in the VRM heatsink yes?
> 
> One more question: Should it push air into the VRM or pull air from it? I feel like push would bring the hot air from my Hyper 212 Evo directly into the VRM, which might not exactly make it cooler...
Click to expand...

Hey,
Yes lightly turn a standard fan screw intbetween the fins, I put one in opposite corners.

I prefer to push air down and into the HS and board so it hits the VRM components and flow over them. But try it both ways. Depending on the SP of the fan you got, it may make a difference.


----------



## multichrome

Turns out it doesn't fit :/

My hyper212 is getting in the way. Sigh, if only I had a liquid cooler.


----------



## Bkpizza

If you have a stock AMD cooler around, rip the fan off and try this maybe??
I used an expansion slot cover and bent it into shape so it fits at the back of my Noctua D14.
Just used a screw to mount one side into the rear fan.


----------



## dmfree88

just get a low profile 90mm fan or something for less then 10 bucks:

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/de80ef2.html


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I used a fan off a stock AMD heatpipe cooler then I used zip ties to creatively attach it right over the heatsink. Granted I'm using an aftermarket heatsink so its not goofy shaped like the stock one.


----------



## itomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Last time I checked it was the "DEL" key that got me into the bios...


Yes, i know its DEL key. I was pushing DEL key.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I used a fan off a stock AMD heatpipe cooler then I used zip ties to creatively attach it right over the heatsink. Granted I'm using an aftermarket heatsink so its not goofy shaped like the stock one.


I must have got a bad one or something. That fan sounds like a jetplane. I had to swap out an old case fan from my xps600. I couldnt stand the sound of the amd stock cooler fan.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I must have got a bad one or something. That fan sounds like a jetplane. I had to swap out an old case fan from my xps600. I couldnt stand the sound of the amd stock cooler fan.


Yeah the thing really is that loud if you don't use some sort of fan controller. I use SpeedFan and have it set to 40% and don't hear it at all.


----------



## highc1157

Hey guys ! Little testing done on my 8320 I just got and have a few questions









Mobo is 990fxa-ud3. Rev3. fC bios :

All proper power management settings are enabled / disabled as should be in bios.

LLC is at auto and is pretty steady fluctuating periodically between 1.392 and 1.404 Volts.

I'm running at 4.2 ghz and in the bios I lowered the voltage to -.050v , which I guess runs at approximately 1.4 volts on average as stated above by the fluctuations. Seems like I'm getting very little Vdroop so that's good, and not getting any throttling !

*That background aside, what do you guys think I should do next with my frequencies and voltages? How long should I prime95 test before moving on to a different oc setting. Only problem is my current temps with my h60 cooler at 4.2ghz and 1.4v is running at 60 degs max* ?

I've found 20 min small FFT a decent test that doesn't take forever as recommended by a very popular Amd oc guide (sorry forget the link). After I find a good oc I'll obviously do a final test using "blend" for a few hours.


----------



## Particle

Any short test will only tell you when an overclock attempt gets to a point where it is grossly unstable. That's a very useful thing to know of course. When I'm feeling out a new processor, I will ratchet up the multiplier until it starts to crash or produce errors during quick tests such as 10 minutes of P95. Once this starts to happen, I raise the voltage one or two steps (25-50mV) and try that same multiplier again. If it passes, I keep increasing the multiplier as before. I repeat that process until I reach the end of what I'm willing to do for voltage, and I also plot the results of each test. If raising voltage yields a lower frequency ceiling than I had at the lower voltage due to the extra heat, I would consider that previous voltage to be my maximum target even if I had a higher voltage in mind at the start of the process. As an aside, that record of these tests becomes important in the future when you want to re-examine your chip and you've long forgotten the chip's response to these tests. It also becomes handy as a baseline when you want to switch to a different motherboard. Your results will be different in another board, so the comparison is useful.

Anyhow, once I've reached a point where higher voltage is either unavailable or unhelpful and the chip is producing errors or crashing, it's time to back down one multiplier at a time and do extended tests. Instead of 10 minutes of P95, think something more along the lines of a successful 24-48 hours of blend. Once you've reached settings that pass that test, it's time to let the thing idle and do regular work for you. If you like to do distributed computing like WCG or FAH, it's not yet time to start that. You need to run the system for a few days to a week where load is variable in order to know if it's really going to be stable. If you crash, drop your multiplier and do the idle/regular load period test again. You don't need to do another P95 run since you already know it's capable of passing it at the higher frequency. The reason for the idle test is that when you do something like play a game or just tool around in Windows, you'll often have less voltage available during brief periods of full load on individual cores (but not all) than you would have when your chip was at 100% load. Sometimes this results in a crash you wouldn't otherwise see when doing full load testing.

That will get you to a point where I feel you can call it stable, but most people aren't nearly so patient. You'd be surprised how many people do no testing at all or 30 minutes of P95 and then tell everyone their system is "stable". It's misleading and usually results in the community-sourced average overclock for any particular CPU (Intel or AMD alike) to look 200-400 MHz higher than what an average sample will truly yield. The good news though is that these days a 200 MHz difference barely makes any difference.

As a final note: If you like to use Prime95, make sure you're using the 27.x branch and enable both kinds of error checking. By default, round off checking and sum checking are disabled. Both can be toggled from the Advanced menu across the top of the application _before_ you begin your test for the first time. The settings are nonvolatile, so they do not need to be set each time.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I must have got a bad one or something. That fan sounds like a jetplane. I had to swap out an old case fan from my xps600. I couldnt stand the sound of the amd stock cooler fan.


Mine is quiet when I'm not doing anything. During a game or something its not to bad but I can hear it. When I run Prime or anything that stresses all 8 cores then oh yeah it sounds like a jet at 6K RPM. I'd rather have the jet sound then the throttling though so I don't mind so much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Yeah the thing really is that loud if you don't use some sort of fan controller. I use SpeedFan and have it set to 40% and don't hear it at all.


Maybe I'll look into this. I didn't even think to control it lol


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> Any short test will only tell you when an overclock attempt gets to a point where it is grossly unstable. That's a very useful thing to know of course. When I'm feeling out a new processor, I will ratchet up the multiplier until it starts to crash or produce errors during quick tests such as 10 minutes of P95. Once this starts to happen, I raise the voltage one or two steps (25-50mV) and try that same multiplier again. If it passes, I keep increasing the multiplier as before. I repeat that process until I reach the end of what I'm willing to do for voltage, and I also plot the results of each test. If raising voltage yields a lower frequency ceiling than I had at the lower voltage due to the extra heat, I would consider that previous voltage to be my maximum target even if I had a higher voltage in mind at the start of the process. As an aside, that record of these tests becomes important in the future when you want to re-examine your chip and you've long forgotten the chip's response to these tests. It also becomes handy as a baseline when you want to switch to a different motherboard. Your results will be different in another board, so the comparison is useful.
> 
> Anyhow, once I've reached a point where higher voltage is either unavailable or unhelpful and the chip is producing errors or crashing, it's time to back down one multiplier at a time and do extended tests. Instead of 10 minutes of P95, think something more along the lines of a successful 24-48 hours of blend. Once you've reached settings that pass that test, it's time to let the thing idle and do regular work for you. If you like to do distributed computing like WCG or FAH, it's not yet time to start that. You need to run the system for a few days to a week where load is variable in order to know if it's really going to be stable. If you crash, drop your multiplier and do the idle/regular load period test again. You don't need to do another P95 run since you already know it's capable of passing it at the higher frequency. The reason for the idle test is that when you do something like play a game or just tool around in Windows, you'll often have less voltage available during brief periods of full load on individual cores (but not all) than you would have when your chip was at 100% load. Sometimes this results in a crash you wouldn't otherwise see when doing full load testing.
> 
> That will get you to a point where I feel you can call it stable, but most people aren't nearly so patient. You'd be surprised how many people do no testing at all or 30 minutes of P95 and then tell everyone their system is "stable". It's misleading and usually results in the community-sourced average overclock for any particular CPU (Intel or AMD alike) to look 200-400 MHz higher than what an average sample will truly yield. The good news though is that these days a 200 MHz difference barely makes any difference.
> 
> As a final note: If you like to use Prime95, make sure you're using the 27.x branch and enable both kinds of error checking. By default, round off checking and sum checking are disabled. Both can be toggled from the Advanced menu across the top of the application _before_ you begin your test for the first time. The settings are nonvolatile, so they do not need to be set each time.


I used to be a firm 24 hours of Prime and its stable. Now I only do 12 hours. If it can pass 12 hours of blend, 100 passes of Linpack, watch a few Youtube videos, 3dMark and some games then I call it a day. I don't have any issues with BSOD, freezing or corruption. Realistically you will never push a CPU that hard for that long so 12 hours is fine. I've had an instance where my machine passed Prime for 24 hours and 100 Linpack passes only to BSOD the very second I tried to watch a flash video on Youtube. Turned out to be my RAM OC wasn't stable so yeah even stress tests aren't guaranteed to find instabilities. That very day I changed my testing methods.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah thats crazy guys i get the jetplane noise with the fan controller on at low rpm. I had it hooked to the cpu plug. At 3k rpm it sounds like a broken down jet, at 6k rpm im worried it may spin off and ricochet across my case lol. I must have got a bad fan worse then most.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> Any short test will only tell you when an overclock attempt gets to a point where it is grossly unstable. That's a very useful thing to know of course. When I'm feeling out a new processor, I will ratchet up the multiplier until it starts to crash or produce errors during quick tests such as 10 minutes of P95. Once this starts to happen, I raise the voltage one or two steps (25-50mV) and try that same multiplier again. If it passes, I keep increasing the multiplier as before. I repeat that process until I reach the end of what I'm willing to do for voltage, and I also plot the results of each test. If raising voltage yields a lower frequency ceiling than I had at the lower voltage due to the extra heat, I would consider that previous voltage to be my maximum target even if I had a higher voltage in mind at the start of the process. As an aside, that record of these tests becomes important in the future when you want to re-examine your chip and you've long forgotten the chip's response to these tests. It also becomes handy as a baseline when you want to switch to a different motherboard. Your results will be different in another board, so the comparison is useful.
> 
> Anyhow, once I've reached a point where higher voltage is either unavailable or unhelpful and the chip is producing errors or crashing, it's time to back down one multiplier at a time and do extended tests. Instead of 10 minutes of P95, think something more along the lines of a successful 24-48 hours of blend. Once you've reached settings that pass that test, it's time to let the thing idle and do regular work for you. If you like to do distributed computing like WCG or FAH, it's not yet time to start that. You need to run the system for a few days to a week where load is variable in order to know if it's really going to be stable. If you crash, drop your multiplier and do the idle/regular load period test again. You don't need to do another P95 run since you already know it's capable of passing it at the higher frequency. The reason for the idle test is that when you do something like play a game or just tool around in Windows, you'll often have less voltage available during brief periods of full load on individual cores (but not all) than you would have when your chip was at 100% load. Sometimes this results in a crash you wouldn't otherwise see when doing full load testing.
> 
> That will get you to a point where I feel you can call it stable, but most people aren't nearly so patient. You'd be surprised how many people do no testing at all or 30 minutes of P95 and then tell everyone their system is "stable". It's misleading and usually results in the community-sourced average overclock for any particular CPU (Intel or AMD alike) to look 200-400 MHz higher than what an average sample will truly yield. The good news though is that these days a 200 MHz difference barely makes any difference.
> 
> As a final note: If you like to use Prime95, make sure you're using the 27.x branch and enable both kinds of error checking. By default, round off checking and sum checking are disabled. Both can be toggled from the Advanced menu across the top of the application _before_ you begin your test for the first time. The settings are nonvolatile, so they do not need to be set each time.


good info i agree. Some people are claiming stability while its not. P95 specifically says in its readme if its fails there IS definitely something wrong. I also agree with Oz though i dont feel like more then 12 hours is needed. I usually do pretty much the same run intel ibt AVX until unstable then up core volt till stable then when finally at the lid then run p95 for atleast 6 hours.


----------



## neo0031

Any (UK) owners here who can tell me where I could get the 990FXA UD3 but in rev.5 for sure? Instead of other revisions? (ie ones without warping problems?)

Looking to get one in a couple of months. Any help willl be appreciated. Thanks!









EDIT: Silly me. I meant rev.4. Got them confused. Yes, rev4 with the heatpipe.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Any (UK) owners here who can tell me where I could get the 990FXA UD3 but in rev.5 for sure? Instead of other revisions? (ie ones without warping problems?)
> 
> Looking to get one in a couple of months. Any help willl be appreciated. Thanks!


Might have to wait a few years for a Rev 5! The Rev 4 is starting to appear it seems but retailers will probably being doing their best to get rid of old stock of Rev 3's first so its really hard to say unless its expressly stated to be a Rev 4.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Might have to wait a few years for a Rev 5! The Rev 4 is starting to appear it seems but retailers will probably being doing their best to get rid of old stock of Rev 3's first so its really hard to say unless its expressly stated to be a Rev 4.


I thought as much...

Is the rev.3 ridden with loads of problems? Or if I'm not benching etc should I just go for a non 990fx chip...?


----------



## miklkit

I don't have the patience for 48 hour runs on my onlyest puter. One hour is enough for me. I have games that push this puter as hard as OCCT Large Data Set or IBT does, so would rather play games than go with no puter.
It runs like a good stocker too. I surf, game, and do some modding all with no problems. No BSOD or CTDs or graphics anomalies. So I see no need to get anal about benching.

Anyone want a slightly used Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 Rev4 motherboard cheap? It's never been overclocked. Here is how it runs at stock settings. Note it is throttling at an indicated 43C.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I don't have the patience for 48 hour runs on my onlyest puter. One hour is enough for me. I have games that push this puter as hard as OCCT Large Data Set or IBT does, so would rather play games than go with no puter.
> It runs like a good stocker too. I surf, game, and do some modding all with no problems. No BSOD or CTDs or graphics anomalies. So I see no need to get anal about benching.
> 
> Anyone want a slightly used Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 Rev4 motherboard cheap? It's never been overclocked. Here is how it runs at stock settings. Note it is throttling at an indicated 43C.


How cheap, how long can you wait, what location are you in and why is it throttling? (BIOS issue again from Gigabyte?)


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So even the revised heatsinks didn't solve the throttling? How can they advertise these to work with 8 core FX's? I just don't get it.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Might have to wait a few years for a Rev 5! The Rev 4 is starting to appear it seems but retailers will probably being doing their best to get rid of old stock of Rev 3's first so its really hard to say unless its expressly stated to be a Rev 4.


Silly me. I meant rev.4. Got them confused. Yes, rev4 with the heatpipe.







Brain fart there.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> How cheap, how long can you wait, what location are you in and why is it throttling? (BIOS issue again from Gigabyte?)


It's a bad bios I think. Did you notice that the cpu is only running at 87%, the cpu temp is 43C, and it is throttling?

How about $60 USD + shipping. It's sitting in its box and I still have the box Gigabyte sent it in. I am in Northern California, USA. How long can I wait? Maybe I'll email Gigabyte about it. Someday.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> I thought as much...
> 
> Is the rev.3 ridden with loads of problems? Or if I'm not benching etc should I just go for a non 990fx chip...?


The rev3 is the one with the problems. Rev 1.x seem to work better for most, atleast better then rev 3. So far we only have one verified owner here of rev4 and he had even more bad luck with rev 4. I would highly recommend going with m5a99x R2.0 or a sabertooth if you can.


----------



## neo0031

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> The rev3 is the one with the problems. Rev 1.x seem to work better for most, atleast better then rev 3. So far we only have one verified owner here of rev4 and he had even more bad luck with rev 4. I would highly recommend going with m5a99x R2.0 or a sabertooth if you can.


Yeah since I'm planning the build for a few months down the road, I've been looking at the Sabertooth R.2. Able to play and OC and use without worries for £30 more sounds reasonable enough... I'll just cut back on some other components...

Such a shame though. The 990FXA UD3 is such a handsome black board...


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It's a bad bios I think. Did you notice that the cpu is only running at 87%, the cpu temp is 43C, and it is throttling?
> 
> How about $60 USD + shipping. It's sitting in its box and I still have the box Gigabyte sent it in. I am in Northern California, USA. How long can I wait? Maybe I'll email Gigabyte about it. Someday.


Is it voltage throttling? I see the frequency is is dropping but it doesn't look like voltage is. Maybe the APM mode trick with AMD overdrive will work.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neo0031*
> 
> Yeah since I'm planning the build for a few months down the road, I've been looking at the Sabertooth R.2. Able to play and OC and use without worries for £30 more sounds reasonable enough... I'll just cut back on some other components...
> 
> Such a shame though. The 990FXA UD3 is such a handsome black board...


if you can find a used rev 1.1 990fxa-ud5 youd be happy. Even the 1.0 is good just doesnt have LLC. I think people have had some issues with the rev3 but im sure will be addressed with new bios updates. UD5 is a good board though with the same color scheme for around same price as the sabertooth. Most seem to still prefer the sabertooth though, havent tried it personally but it seems to be a much better board overall.

This also might interest you here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1419453/asus-m5a97-motherboard-amd-am3


----------



## ginger_nuts

I have a strange issue. I recently swapped my 1055t with my 955 in My Current Project rig below, the board is a rev 1.0.

After a couple of updates for windows everything was fine, stable and I continued to overclock









I have just now pulled the 955 out and put a Phenom II x2 555 in it, and it is unstable and will not update









Only way to boot into windows is in safe mode









Any suggestions what I need to do? Please do not say re-install windows.

edit: In the BIOS I also loaded safe default settings.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I have a strange issue. I recently swapped my 1055t with my 955 in My Current Project rig below, the board is a rev 1.0.
> 
> After a couple of updates for windows everything was fine, stable and I continued to overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have just now pulled the 955 out and put a Phenom II x2 555 in it, and it is unstable and will not update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only way to boot into windows is in safe mode
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any suggestions what I need to do? Please do not say re-install windows.


Did you clear cmos?

It may be kind of a pain to make, probably take just as much time to update. But if you want you can make a windows 7 bootable USB with all the updates attached:

http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/145343-slipstream-windows-7-sp1-into-installation-dvd-iso-file.html

Would atleast save time for future issues. Maybe its the drivers on your HDD didnt like the swap?


----------



## ginger_nuts

No I didn't clear the cmos









Will try that when I get home.

Cheers for the idea of making a bootable usb. Will see how I go to make one.

If no joy I will find a spare hdd to reinstall again.


----------



## Sazz

god, good thing I opted for a used UD3 rev 1.1 instead of a new rev 3.0.

After reading the BIOS problem on the rev 3.0 it overreacting on VRM temps and throttling it down I decided to go for the used rev 1.1, not did I just save a bit of money (bought it for 90bucks) I probably saved me some headaches too.

and as a precautionary measure I bought an aftermarket MOSFET heatsink. I was looking for the matching NB heatsink but its currently out of stock everywhere and will probably not get in stock unless I find some used ones T_T

I plan to put a 40mm fan on the mosfet heatsink to help it out even further, it won't hurt to get it to lower temps, and will probably replace the thermal pad to a fujipoly one.

Pics of the mosfet heatsink below, 2nd pic will give you an idea how I modded its mounting kit (well atleast I try, the flash from camera makes it bright). and the link for the heatsink I used is here.





And question, those black blocks out there near the Mosfet heatsink, what are those? and are those should be cooled as well? I am thinking of putting some passive chipsinks on those xD


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> god, good thing I opted for a used UD3 rev 1.1 instead of a new rev 3.0.
> 
> After reading the BIOS problem on the rev 3.0 it overreacting on VRM temps and throttling it down I decided to go for the used rev 1.1, not did I just save a bit of money (bought it for 90bucks) I probably saved me some headaches too.
> 
> and as a precautionary measure I bought an aftermarket MOSFET heatsink. I was looking for the matching NB heatsink but its currently out of stock everywhere and will probably not get in stock unless I find some used ones T_T
> 
> I plan to put a 40mm fan on the mosfet heatsink to help it out even further, it won't hurt to get it to lower temps, and will probably replace the thermal pad to a fujipoly one.
> 
> Pics of the mosfet heatsink below, 2nd pic will give you an idea how I modded its mounting kit (well atleast I try, the flash from camera makes it bright). and the link for the heatsink I used is here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And question, those black blocks out there near the Mosfet heatsink, what are those? and are those should be cooled as well? I am thinking of putting some passive chipsinks on those xD


The larger black blocks you describe are chokes. They are part of the power circuit. They do not need to be cooled.


----------



## miklkit

That's the heatsink to use. Did you solder it on or epoxy it? I can't tell.

I used air cooling and it sits up into the air stream of the case exhaust fan next to it.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That's the heatsink to use. Did you solder it on or epoxy it? I can't tell.
> 
> I used air cooling and it sits up into the air stream of the case exhaust fan next to it.


don't you see the plastic push pins?

and how on earth would you solder it on? Epoxy? really? such bad ideas


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> don't you see the plastic push pins?
> 
> and how on earth would you solder it on? Epoxy? really? such bad ideas


Super glue! lolol

And yeah I used the plastic push pins. I actually used the ones that came with the stock heatsink since they were thicker.

at first I put the heatsink in place then put the mounting hardware that I cut over the part where I am gonna glue it on to mark where should I glue it, then I sanded (rough sand paper) down the parts where I am gonna glue them together (coz if they were flat and smooth surface they won't stick) then put a very small amount of the super glue over the place where I need to glue them on and put the mounting thing (with the push pins removed) to line up the mounting holes of the mounting hardware to the motherboard holes. once its lined up, I pulled the mounting hardware off and the tiny super glue pretty much marked where exactly I need to put it, now I put in large amount of the super glue and put it back in, and to verify that it lines up I put it over the mobo to see if it lines up to the motherboard holes and once its lined up I put pressure on the glued part for 30seconds using a small screw driver then left it for 5minutes.

after 5minutes I tested the glued part by trying to remove it by force, couldn't remove it by force with my fingers so I put the push pins back, and tested it out. voila! it fits xD

at first I thought maybe the heat would weakin the super glue, so after a few hours of prime 95, I tried to shake the heatsink a little bit while mounted and it's very firmly attached. didnt wanna shake it hard coz I don't wanna break something on the mobo LOL but so far everything is working out perfectly xD


----------



## miklkit

Hey, any port in a storm.

I used nuts, bolts, and washers. Another guy used epoxy and one guy tried zip ties. It's all good.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> don't you see the plastic push pins?
> 
> and how on earth would you solder it on? Epoxy? really? such bad ideas


So it fits with just push-pins? I was thinking of getting this heatsink for my UD5 but after reading the above earlier (super glue story) I was hesitant. Does it fit normally with just push pins? How did you "mod" it to work? if you dont mind me asking


----------



## mus1mus

I'm a fellow ud3 rev 3 owner.

Just noticed how you guys bash this motherboard for its issues.
I myself has noticed them though.

However on my observations, this board is a good board. For a mild overclock I believe. As with my tinkering delivered me good results performance-wise.
Stability is a question on this board at high overclock though. I found the limit on mine at 4.8 Ghz. Unstable as it may seem for some of you since this board is giving up on me regardless of the CPU temp.
Throttling isn't an issue either. Freezes and restarts occur at 4.8 and higher. No BSODs or whatever. Just restarts without windows notification on startup. Must be the limit of the board.

i tinkered on the ONE CORE PER CU option too, in a hope to reach higher clocks with a quad core set-up. But still the board will just give up. I know you guys were talking about the vrms but hey, half-power down with 4 cores running shouldn't give those vrms much workout I think, but the board will just restart on running quads full. So i assume and believed that the board has it's limit at that clock.

But anyway, here's where I'm at ATM. http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=11957929341

If you guys knew a bios for this board with an option to disconnect PCIE clock from the Base clock multi and the NB multi, I would really be glad to have that. Currently running FDc.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm a fellow ud3 rev 3 owner.
> 
> Just noticed how you guys bash this motherboard for its issues.
> I myself has noticed them though.
> 
> However on my observations, this board is a good board. For a mild overclock I believe. As with my tinkering delivered me good results performance-wise.
> Stability is a question on this board at high overclock though. I found the limit on mine at 4.8 Ghz. Unstable as it may seem for some of you since this board is giving up on me regardless of the CPU temp.
> Throttling isn't an issue either. Freezes and restarts occur at 4.8 and higher. No BSODs or whatever. Just restarts without windows notification on startup. Must be the limit of the board.
> 
> i tinkered on the ONE CORE PER CU option too, in a hope to reach higher clocks with a quad core set-up. But still the board will just give up. I know you guys were talking about the vrms but hey, half-power down with 4 cores running shouldn't give those vrms much workout I think, but the board will just restart on running quads full. So i assume and believed that the board has it's limit at that clock.
> 
> But anyway, here's where I'm at ATM. http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=11957929341
> 
> If you guys knew a bios for this board with an option to disconnect PCIE clock from the Base clock multi and the NB multi, I would really be glad to have that. Currently running FDc.


Yes I agree with you 100%
Certain points such as good for mild OC IT REALLY GETA JOB DONE..BUT NOT FOR SERIOUS OVERCLOCKERS.
too lazy to fix caps


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> So it fits with just push-pins? I was thinking of getting this heatsink for my UD5 but after reading the above earlier (super glue story) I was hesitant. Does it fit normally with just push pins? How did you "mod" it to work? if you dont mind me asking


It's hard to explain here, but UD5 got good heatsink already, when I had my previous rig using UD5 it never went over 50C.

But I disassembled the mounting kit that came with it, there's a part where you can slide it left and right to match where the holes is, the problem with the mounting kit is once installed on the heatsink itself, its too wide that it hits the Chokes and Capacitors from both sides, but without it the heatsink itself slides in perfectly.

So what I did is disassembled the mounting hardware, there's one thing you can unscrew on it and once that thing that is screwed to be secure is removed, I cut the thing in half, and you can use either half to glue it on direcly over the heatsink (not under where the heatsink is touching the vrm modules, over the heatsink plate that makes contact, again you will get what I am talking about once you have the heatsink in front of you).

and its basically simple laying down the heatsink, and matching up the holes and marking it up where to glue it.

It's fairly easy, a 5th grader can do it, it just sounds hard and complicated since it really is hard to explain it over here, but its easier than you think. just make sure you buy a super glue that can hold up great pressure to be sure its strong enough and sand down the part where the two things will make contact, glue's won't stick if the two surfaces are mirror finish smooth.

once the mod mounting hardware is glue'd in place, I just put the push pin back in it and voila, it works.


----------



## highc1157

circled is the one i need to keep under or close to 62 as stated in the owners club thread
http://postimg.org/image/o3siv50qb/full/
windows screenshot

I just did a test, i turned on CPU WARNING TEMP though the BIOS for when it hits 60 degreees and didnt hear ANYTHING , even though TMPIN1 and 2 and the circled value in red in the above picture got over 60 in prime test ?
http://postimg.org/image/cj0puk5cd/full/
pc screenshot

can anybody clear up which sensors in which programs I should be watching ??!


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> circled is the one i need to keep under or close to 62 as stated in the owners club thread
> 
> I just did a test, i turned on CPU WARNING TEMP though the BIOS for when it hits 60 degreees and didnt hear ANYTHING , even though TMPIN1 and 2 and the circled value in red in the above picture got over 60 in prime test ?
> 
> can anybody clear up which sensors in which programs I should be watching ??!


Well, I personally never figured out what sensor was monitoring what and nobody has a single answer, Gigabyte says one thing while others say another, it's all seems to be a toss up. But I wouldn't be surprised that the option you used doesn't even work or isn't actually being set, if I remember correctly you have the UD3 R3 and the BIOS on that thing is just terrible and I've had it not save settings a few times.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Well, I personally never figured out what sensor was monitoring what and nobody has a single answer, Gigabyte says one thing while others say another, it's all seems to be a toss up. But I wouldn't be surprised that the option you used doesn't even work or isn't actually being set, if I remember correctly you have the UD3 R3 and the BIOS on that thing is just terrible and I've had it not save settings a few times.


QFT!


----------



## dmfree88

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> circled is the one i need to keep under or close to 62 as stated in the owners club thread
> http://postimg.org/image/o3siv50qb/full/
> windows screenshot
> 
> I just did a test, i turned on CPU WARNING TEMP though the BIOS for when it hits 60 degreees and didnt hear ANYTHING , even though TMPIN1 and 2 and the circled value in red in the above picture got over 60 in prime test ?
> http://postimg.org/image/cj0puk5cd/full/
> pc screenshot
> 
> can anybody clear up which sensors in which programs I should be watching ??!






the temp warning doesnt seem to work in my UD5.

I also had a weird warning beep going off at 52 degrees (consistantly) while undervolted at 4.5ghz. As soon as I lowered clock beep stopped (cooler couldn't handle more volts).

Thats un-related though. The temperature warning never went off for me. I had it set to lowest setting and never heard a beep even after 70*. You would have better luck using an alarm inside of a windows program.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> 
> the temp warning doesnt seem to work in my UD5.
> 
> I also had a weird warning beep going off at 52 degrees (consistantly) while undervolted at 4.5ghz. As soon as I lowered clock beep stopped (cooler couldn't handle more volts).
> 
> Thats un-related though. The temperature warning never went off for me. I had it set to lowest setting and never heard a beep even after 70*. You would have better luck using an alarm inside of a windows program.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Well, I personally never figured out what sensor was monitoring what and nobody has a single answer, Gigabyte says one thing while others say another, it's all seems to be a toss up. But I wouldn't be surprised that the option you used doesn't even work or isn't actually being set, if I remember correctly you have the UD3 R3 and the BIOS on that thing is just terrible and I've had it not save settings a few times.


One thing to replace these monitoring softwares is yourself..check on your rig. if it's hot, you'd be warned. if it feels cool, push it.. lol..









Kidding guys.









UD3 rev 3 runs on the hotter side.. the vrms were warm. the NB was warm. If you are worried about your CPU getting hot, get a feel of the NB temp. and the VRMs. I have run my 8320 up to 75 or more before according to HWMonitor, without throttling or any warnings. Pretty normal to get high temps when testing on heavy bench like Cinebench. But I'd swear not to do those things again though. It was my poor OC'ing brain that gave me those outcome. Still, thanking my little gem is still working.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> circled is the one i need to keep under or close to 62 as stated in the owners club thread
> http://postimg.org/image/o3siv50qb/full/
> windows screenshot
> 
> I just did a test, i turned on CPU WARNING TEMP though the BIOS for when it hits 60 degreees and didnt hear ANYTHING , even though TMPIN1 and 2 and the circled value in red in the above picture got over 60 in prime test ?
> http://postimg.org/image/cj0puk5cd/full/
> pc screenshot
> 
> can anybody clear up which sensors in which programs I should be watching ??!


Your Vcore seems a bit high for a 4.4.. I got mine running 4.67 @ 1.39V. You might wanna try keeping it low.








http://valid.canardpc.com/2893154


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Yes I agree with you 100%
> Certain points such as good for mild OC IT REALLY GETA JOB DONE..BUT NOT FOR SERIOUS OVERCLOCKERS.
> too lazy to fix caps


Well, serious OC'ers wouldn't even take a sec looking at this board though. I learned it the hard way I believe. Eyeing the new sabertooth in a month or the next.

note; It sucks when you get a feel of how things run at a high clock on this board only to be limited by the board itself.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> can anybody clear up which sensors in which programs I should be watching ??!


Did you not read my previous post









the one you have there at 67 is the one that shouldnt go over 62. it can safely reach 70 or more without blowing up but the general max temp is 62. you also have some SERIOUS vboost. your jumping from 1.44v to 1.5 volts. You should be at like 1.425 volts MAX for your current OC. You should lower your vcore AND lower your LLC. The vcore is why your temps are so high. The LLC is why your vcore is so much higher under load then it is idle

Vcore is what keeps you stable this is what you need to watch aswell as cpu temp. Other temps you wont need to worry much about unless you have throttling issues (or see something abnormal).


----------



## ebduncan

may seem odd to ask, but for those using the CPU temp warning in bios. Do you have a case speaker attached to the motherboard? You will not get any beeps though your normal audio sources only the case speaker if installed.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well, serious OC'ers wouldn't even take a sec looking at this board though. I learned it the hard way I believe. Eyeing the new sabertooth in a month or the next.
> 
> note; It sucks when you get a feel of how things run at a high clock on this board only to be limited by the board itself.


tell me about it...until I ran into this website...and specifically this forum..I woulda never been sad and I woulda lived a lie...sigh


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> may seem odd to ask, but for those using the CPU temp warning in bios. Do you have a case speaker attached to the motherboard? You will not get any beeps though your normal audio sources only the case speaker if installed.


Yes I installed my case speaker. I know it works aswell because of the beep that kept happening while undervolting 4.5ghz.

The bios temp warning seems to be useless. Everyone was telling me thats what was causing the beeping then i finally disabled it and the beep still happened. Then when I finally got the beep to stop, i tried to turn the warning back on and even after pushing past 70 (it was set to warn at 60) i get nothing no beep no warning. Have to use alarm in hwinfo64 if I actually want some safety.

Off subject I was wondering does anyone elses HDD make annoying noise while hwinfo64 is on? my SSD doesnt make a peep but my 10k rpm raptor if the sensors are enabled will make a loud seeking noise everytime the sensor is read (so every 2 seconds)


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

dmfree88, have you decided what cooling you will upgrade to yet?


----------



## dmfree88

I was just talking to someone on the hyper212 club about it. I am not sure the noctua is going to fit. The 212 already bumps the plastic bubble when i put the side panel on. Since the noctua is 1mm bigger and quite a bit wider I dont think it will fit without modifications. I will probably just mod it and make it work if it doesnt but I dont have the money to get it right now. I hope to give it a shot here soon though.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *highc1157*
> 
> circled is the one i need to keep under or close to 62 as stated in the owners club thread
> http://postimg.org/image/o3siv50qb/full/
> 
> I just did a test, i turned on CPU WARNING TEMP though the BIOS for when it hits 60 degreees and didnt hear ANYTHING , even though TMPIN1 and 2 and the circled value in red in the above picture got over 60 in prime test ?
> 
> can anybody clear up which sensors in which programs I should be watching ??!


The CPU temps you circled represent an individual core temp... instead you should pay attention to the CPU temp listed in the next section down... the third in the block beneath motherboard and northbridge... that is your actual CPU physical temp not just a single core. That's the one that you want to keep below 62 ... preferably closer to 50 to 55 under heavy loads... I know that means dialing back your overclock a couple notches or spending the money for a more intense cooling setup, but it's worth helping insure the longevity of your CPU. Don't feel bad though... I made the same rookie mistake myself and was politely educated about it by our more experienced brethren in this thread.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> The CPU temps you circled represent an individual core temp... instead you should pay attention to the CPU temp listed in the next section down... the third in the block beneath motherboard and northbridge... that is your actual CPU physical temp not just a single core. That's the one that you want to keep below 62 ... preferably closer to 50 to 55 under heavy loads... I know that means dialing back your overclock a couple notches or spending the money for a more intense cooling setup, but it's worth helping insure the longevity of your CPU. Don't feel bad though... I made the same rookie mistake myself and was politely educated about it by our more experienced brethren in this thread.


that is the cpu socket temp, not the cpu temp. the one he has circled is not a single core its the only measurement for the cpu specifically. the motherboards measurement is the cpu socket


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> that is the cpu socket temp, not the cpu temp. the one he has circled is not a single core its the only measurement for the cpu specifically. the motherboards measurement is the cpu socket


Then you're contradicting what everyone else has ever told me, let alone everything I've looked up online... including the author himself... sigh...

According to the program author, for the Gigabyte boards, that temperature I refer to is the direct CPU temperature. And while, Martin, the program author here states that he thinks it the CPU diode temp I rarely, if ever, notice that particular temp being erratic and moving around a lot, unlike the CPU0 temp that Highc circled in the posted picture above.... which I always notice frequent changes in... CPU0 is probably a core/diode temp... CPU under the motherboard heading is the Gigabyte monitoring chip reporting the CPU temp. At least that's what it seems to me...

http://www.hwinfo.com/forum/Thread-Solved-Gigabyte-GA-990FXA-UD3-rev-3-0?highlight=Gigabyte+990FA-UD5


----------



## dmfree88

what you saying sounds legitimate enough but is also opposite of what everyone has been telling me. I hear there is no temp diode in the fx series chips. It is calculated by an algorithm that gets more accurate at higher temperatures. That is why its so horribly innaccurate until its under load.

Now im confused


----------



## Hellsrage

I don't see why it matters? They run the exact same temp, I've never seen them get 1 degree apart they are always within the same area minus the .x fluctuations on CPU 0.


----------



## istudy92

So..I got fx4300 Sapp7950....I'm 100% getting 9990 or 9970 when it comes out..and well should I bother getting a 8320/50 on my ud3 rev 3 mobo?
I'm hesitating Idk if its worth it


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I don't see why it matters? They run the exact same temp, I've never seen them get 1 degree apart they are always within the same area minus the .x fluctuations on CPU 0.


they are always exactly 10 degrees different for me. and if i turn on the vrm fan the one i thought was the cpu socket (motherboard cpu reading) looses 2 degrees at higher temps vs the one under the fx.. if its 62 its 70 but at low temps its always 10 different 23>33 33>43 and with the vrm fan off same at high temps 62>72. 10 degrees makes a big difference what reading is the right one?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I don't see why it matters? They run the exact same temp, I've never seen them get 1 degree apart they are always within the same area minus the .x fluctuations on CPU 0.


Not true of my rig... under light loads and heavy loads on average the CPU0 temp reading is about 6.5 degrees cooler than the CPU temp reported from the I/O monitoring chip on the motherboard itself...

As far as what I said above, I was referring to what the author of HWInfo said in that particular thread I had linked...


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Not true of my rig... under light loads and heavy loads on average the CPU0 temp reading is about 6.5 degrees cooler than the CPU temp reported from the I/O monitoring chip on the motherboard itself...
> 
> As far as what I said above, I was referring to what the author of HWInfo said in that particular thread I had linked...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> they are always exactly 10 degrees different for me. and if i turn on the vrm fan the one i thought was the cpu socket (motherboard cpu reading) looses 2 degrees at higher temps vs the one under the fx.. if its 62 its 70 but at low temps its always 10 different 23>33 33>43 and with the vrm fan off same at high temps 62>72. 10 degrees makes a big difference what reading is the right one?


Well that's weird then, it almost seems like we have sensors in different places or something. For me at load it was 50c on CPU but 50.4c on CPU0 and that's how it always is, they are never 1 full degree apart.


----------



## itomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> So..I got fx4300 Sapp7950....I'm 100% getting 9990 or 9970 when it comes out..and well should I bother getting a 8320/50 on my ud3 rev 3 mobo?
> I'm hesitating Idk if its worth it


Yes, u should get FX 83xx.


----------



## dmfree88

im still getting answers from others in the vishera thread stating that the cpu0 temp is the one to keep under 62 and the other temp is measured by the motherboard through the socket (therefore the socket temp).

It is probably variable due to different mobos/revisions/cpus/overclock. The one reported by the cpu itself is the one to keep under 62.

The cpu reading is the only "constant" that should report properly no matter what socket its plugged into due to the reading coming from the cpu itself not the motherboards interpretation.

The reason its so horribly in-accurate during idle is due to what I mentioned before, its not actually a temperature diode its some sort of complex algorithm used to determine the temp thats only accurate during load


----------



## p5ych00n5

Slightly off-topic but does anyone have an idea/rumour/scuttlebutt whether or not f11 bios will have a fix for llc on rev. 1.0 UD7, not really comfortable about using uber max volts to push my 1090T past 4GHz


----------



## dmfree88

atleast its only at those volts during idle


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> So..I got fx4300 Sapp7950....I'm 100% getting 9990 or 9970 when it comes out..and well should I bother getting a 8320/50 on my ud3 rev 3 mobo?
> I'm hesitating Idk if its worth it


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Yes, u should get FX 83xx.


I agree and disagree... I'd recommend the 83xx CPU to go with the current and upgraded GPUs for the obvious performance jumps to be had, but if you want to push a healthy overclock (anything over 7-10%), upgrade the motherboard as well... ESPECIALLY since you have a rev 3 and you're wanting to get a 9970/90... that's gonna be a healthy amount of juice flowing through those VRMs under load... they'll need a lot of air or a water block on them to keep them properly cool. Just ask Ozz and the others that have badly warped/fried boards from overheated VRMs...


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> atleast its only at those volts during idle


Checks Facestalk, smells something funny, glances to his right:



Having idle volts @ 6.5v sorta freaks me out


----------



## mayford5

Alright so many on this thread have asked (including myself) what if any waterblock to use on the VRMs to satisfy the need for me personally for a cooler system. Even though I have the UD5 Rev1.0 I am still getting throttling issues when I OC even up to 4.5ghz at 1.46v(it is at 1.46 because of zero LLC and it droops pretty bad and is usually lower than that.) I have found two Koolance blocks of different sizes that may work, but as this is my main rig I haven't stripped it down yet to measure the size of the thermal pad on the bottom. Has anyone with the UD5 or UD3 for that matter taken off and measured the thermal pad on the bottom of the HS? If so would you be willing to send me the measurements?

I was already going to get a NB block so I may as well get a VRM block. I am going to redo my cooling with the new hard tubing they have come out with very soon so I would like to have these so I know which size of block to buy. You also have to buy a cold plate to go under them for heat transfer but the block is only 21.99 for the smaller one and 24.99 for the larger one and a cold plate is about 10USD so It won't be that bad.

Here are the links for the two different blocks I found that are the most promising to me.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_401_597&products_id=24498

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_401_597&products_id=23417

Thank you
Andrew


----------



## miklkit

Those blocks will not fit a UD3 well. One is too short and the other is too long. The UD3 wants 3.125", although some of us have managed to install a 3.25" heat sink, and one of those is 2.28" and the other is 3.9"

Hopefully the UD5 can use the larger one.


----------



## mayford5

Thank you for your swift reply. Maybe I'll pop that thing off tonight if I have time and measure.


----------



## mayford5

I guess it really depends on what I find but this one from Heatkiller is 3.149" so I wonder if that would be closer.


----------



## Sazz

how about the rev 4.0? does it have same problems as 3.0? seems like they used similar heatsink for the NB/Mosfet on the 4.0 version.


----------



## dmfree88

only one verified owner here and he is selling his because of throttling issues. Rev4 isn't much better, atleast we dont know enough people who have one yet. Although the mosfets seem to look good (bigger and better positioning).


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> only one verified owner here and he is selling his because of throttling issues. Rev4 isn't much better, atleast we dont know enough people who have one yet. Although the mosfets seem to look good (bigger and better positioning).


yeah its longer by about 5-7mm in visual comparison to rev 1.1 and 3.0, chokes seems different as well (looks bigger), wonder why the heatsink on it is longer, maybe they spread the VRM's apart from each other further or added more vrm modules? who knows, they never answer on facebook or my emails when it comes to this kind of questions.

thing I like about the NB heatsink is that it seems you can mount a small fan on it, 40mm fan perhaps?


----------



## miklkit

They said the R4 has bigger and better VRMs plus a bigger heat pip type heat sink, and that all is true.

I now have an infrared thermometer but did not get it in time to check actual temps. By using ye olde "stick your hand in there and touch things" method I can say that compared to an MSI 990FXA-GD80 the VRM heat sink on the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R4 ran noticeably hotter. Oh, and the GD80 is at 4.6ghz and the R4 was at stock 4-4.2ghz.

I hope when the new owner gets it he will have better luck than I did.


----------



## istudy92

Then
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I agree and disagree... I'd recommend the 83xx CPU to go with the current and upgraded GPUs for the obvious performance jumps to be had, but if you want to push a healthy overclock (anything over 7-10%), upgrade the motherboard as well... ESPECIALLY since you have a rev 3 and you're wanting to get a 9970/90... that's gonna be a healthy amount of juice flowing through those VRMs under load... they'll need a lot of air or a water block on them to keep them properly cool. Just ask Ozz and the others that have badly warped/fried boards from overheated VRMs...


then what do you guys suggest i do with this mobo? Sell it? Or do a modification like everyone else has done??

Or do you guys think getting an fx6300 would be the best bet because its at 95w opposed to 125w. My 4300 runs very cool under stress test below 55c even at + .2 volt increase at 5.0 overclock

I would assume same performance with voltage increase on 6300 right on a ud 3 R 3 mobo


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

If you want to keep that death trap of a board, go with nothing bigger than the 6300... if you want to get the 8320/50, go with at least a UD5 or an ASUS Sabertooth Rev 2.0. If one thing can be said, don't modify the UD3 R3 board unless you want to keep it... replacing or modifying the VRM cooling will likely void the warranty in Gigabyte's eyes as well as make it more difficult to sell. Really, I would base your decision off of what you want in a processor and the performance you wish to achieve...


----------



## Audiophile1178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Alright so many on this thread have asked (including myself) what if any waterblock to use on the VRMs to satisfy the need for me personally for a cooler system. Even though I have the UD5 Rev1.0 I am still getting throttling issues when I OC even up to 4.5ghz at 1.46v(it is at 1.46 because of zero LLC and it droops pretty bad and is usually lower than that.) I have found two Koolance blocks of different sizes that may work, but as this is my main rig I haven't stripped it down yet to measure the size of the thermal pad on the bottom. Has anyone with the UD5 or UD3 for that matter taken off and measured the thermal pad on the bottom of the HS? If so would you be willing to send me the measurements?
> 
> I was already going to get a NB block so I may as well get a VRM block. I am going to redo my cooling with the new hard tubing they have come out with very soon so I would like to have these so I know which size of block to buy. You also have to buy a cold plate to go under them for heat transfer but the block is only 21.99 for the smaller one and 24.99 for the larger one and a cold plate is about 10USD so It won't be that bad.
> 
> Here are the links for the two different blocks I found that are the most promising to me.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_401_597&products_id=24498
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_401_597&products_id=23417
> 
> Thank you
> Andrew


Andrew,

I registered early to answer your post as I was going to signup and post pictures of my watercooling setup once I got it completed. I have the FX990-UD5 Rev 3.0 board and took off the VRM and Northbridge heatsink to measure it. The VRM bottom of the heatsink is 100mm long x 8mm wide. It might actually be 6mm wide as I'm going off of memory as I currently am away from all that information until the end of this week but I can tell you for 100% that the space in between the capacitors and chokes are 14mm. I've looked at just about every watercooling company possible to find a VRM block and it looks like Koolance is the ONLY company that makes something that's close. I bought the MVR-100 and CHC-122 block. The thing is that the MVR-100 won't clear the capacitors/chokes as they're 8mm high and the MVR-100 starts to widen ~5-6mm in height. In order to use the MVR-100 or the MVR-40 you'll need to use one of their plates to add enough height to clear the capacitors/chokes but the thing is the plates are much wider than 14mm. What you'll need to do is buy the 140mm plate and grind/cut it down to 13mm wide and 100mm long. Also, the CHC-122 is picky about what you can use. I ordered 1/2" XSPC barbs and the threads are too deep and won't let me screws it down all the way. I ordered Koolance NZL-V13B barbs hoping that'll work fine as Koolance said that it would. I'm hoping to have everything posted in about a week if you'd like to wait to see how everything turns out. If not, I believe that these parts will work fine as I'm pretty thorough about being very accurate about these sort of things. The only thing that I'm kinda iffy about is the MVR-100 mounting brackets as the screw holes on the motherboard are fairly close to the MVR-100 block and I don't know if the standard MVR-100 mounting will work ok so I'll either cut the MVR 140mm plate down to 100m and use the standard mounting method on the MVR-100 or keep it a little longer and try to mimic the ears on the original VRM block and use a similar mounthing method that the original VRM heatsink uses. Unfortunately, there's nothing that'll work for a southbridge as my video card covers it completely so there's no watercooling parts that'll work for that.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Andrew,
> 
> I registered early to answer your post as I was going to signup and post pictures of my watercooling setup once I got it completed. I have the FX990-UD5 Rev 3.0 board and took off the VRM and Northbridge heatsink to measure it. The VRM bottom of the heatsink is 100mm long x 8mm wide. It might actually be 6mm wide as I'm going off of memory as I currently am away from all that information until the end of this week but I can tell you for 100% that the space in between the capacitors and chokes are 14mm. I've looked at just about every watercooling company possible to find a VRM block and it looks like Koolance is the ONLY company that makes something that's close. I bought the MVR-100 and CHC-122 block. The thing is that the MVR-100 won't clear the capacitors/chokes as they're 8mm high and the MVR-100 starts to widen ~5-6mm in height. In order to use the MVR-100 or the MVR-40 you'll need to use one of their plates to add enough height to clear the capacitors/chokes but the thing is the plates are much wider than 14mm. What you'll need to do is buy the 140mm plate and grind/cut it down to 13mm wide and 100mm long. Also, the CHC-122 is picky about what you can use. I ordered 1/2" XSPC barbs and the threads are too deep and won't let me screws it down all the way. I ordered Koolance NZL-V13B barbs hoping that'll work fine as Koolance said that it would. I'm hoping to have everything posted in about a week if you'd like to wait to see how everything turns out. If not, I believe that these parts will work fine as I'm pretty thorough about being very accurate about these sort of things. The only thing that I'm kinda iffy about is the MVR-100 mounting brackets as the screw holes on the motherboard are fairly close to the MVR-100 block and I don't know if the standard MVR-100 mounting will work ok so I'll either cut the MVR 140mm plate down to 100m and use the standard mounting method on the MVR-100 or keep it a little longer and try to mimic the ears on the original VRM block and use a similar mounthing method that the original VRM heatsink uses. Unfortunately, there's nothing that'll work for a southbridge as my video card covers it completely so there's no watercooling parts that'll work for that.


Im excited to see the outcome


----------



## Audiophile1178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Im excited to see the outcome


So am I!







It's my first fime doing watercooling. I've already had the CPU under water for about a week or two so far and was like I might as well put everything else under water.







It was a PITA trying to find a VRM block that would work and I believe that the MVR-40 and MVR-100 are the only ones that will work for the UD5 but they still need a heat plate to clear the surrounding parts. I chose the MVR-100 as it looks to be a perfect match for the UD5 but the only thing that concerns me is if there's enough room on the sides to get their mounting brackets in there. I must've called Koolance 15 times asking several questions and they believe that it should work as well but it's all a guessing game until someone goes and does it and I guess I'm the guinea pig. Hey, if it helps others out I'm more than willing to try this out. If it works, maybe others will see and put theirs under water as well.

The thing that's going to be a PITA is getting the heatplate cut/grinded down to the correct size! I'm just waiting for the barbs to arrive from performancepcs. Hopefully, I'll be done sometime this weekend!

FYI, when I asked Koolance why they recommend the MVR-40 on their website for the UD5 they told me that all their recommendations are based off of what they can see on websites. They don't actually test all the parts that they sell on the boards themselves and it's just merely their best educated guess. I explained to them that neither the MVR-40 nor MVR-100 would work with this board as is because there's only 14mm of width available (their heat plates are significantly wider) and some modifications would need to be done. I also told them that the MVR-100 should work as I took the heatsinks off for measurement and but as stated before either option would need additional height to clear the capacitors/chokes as they said that you can use the MVR-40/100 as is without heat plates. They told me that I could double up on thermal pads and it might have enough clearance to clear those parts (capacitor/chokes) with just using the MVR-40/100 as it without any heat plates but that didn't seem like a good solution to me and I'd rather cut up a heat plate to the correct size than try to "Jerry Rig" it with a few layers of thermal tape.

BTW, If I'm successfuly I'm going to need some guidance on getting my FX-8350 overclocked as much as possible! I'd like to try to hit 5GHz stable or more if possible. I'll post more specifics when I'm done but I have a D5 pump, XSPC RayStorm Block, and XSPC AX480 radiator (sits horizontally on top (outside) of PC case so it always has access to fresh air).


----------



## dmfree88

you should be able to push 5ghz no problem im sure further. Most take it the simple way and just disable the power saving features then disable turbo core and start by upping the multiplier on the cpu. Then when your unstable up the voltage on the cpu until stable, then up the multiplier again etc. etc. The best testing tools for stability are IBT AVX and Prime95 (see below for links). Use IBT AVX while your initially overclocking till you reach your temperature limit (max clock + voltage stable) then youd run prime95 for atleast 6 hours, so long as no workers fail you are good, you may need to up voltage more though for this to work.

There is one sneaky factor that will come into play during your adventures, LLC (load line calibration [or control]) this may need to be increased as your clock increases, but you will want to use some sort of graph program to study what your most stable level is, Im currently at a low overclock on air of 4.3ghz and im still getting vboost using rev1.1 of the ud5 (may respond different on yours) with LLC set to high. The vboost is very minimal and is steady. A program like OCCT will show you graphing and save photos of how your vcore reacts under load with LLC. Id recomming probably starting with LLC once you get all features disabled and make sure this is steady before going to far and check back after going up large amounts to verify minimal vdroop or vboost (both safe but least amount of offset and most steady is best). I have a completely different bios then you so you may have to ask others what all extra features to mess with in your rev but this is what i disable to start:


(not an actual picture from my bios either i dont even have cpu unlock mine is set to auto if i set to manual it gives a 10 degree spike in temps?? and of course my llc is high not extreme, extreme is super unstable atleast at low OC, havent got to test higher yet)

Anyways hope that helps out a bit heres some more info about OCing:

http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf

Heres IBT AVX on the main page this is also a great resource page aswell, but this will look the same but is NOT original IBT, run on very high to verify temperature max and stability. Its under additional software on first page:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club
(also windows 7 hotfix for fx processors and if you have a 8320/8350 you should join that club aswell







)

Heres prime95 (if workers fail your unstable, you will understand once you start):
http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/

Heres the most recommended monitoring software HWinfo64 (always keep temps safe







both IBT AVX and P95 will put your processor to the max







):
http://www.guru3d.com/files_details/hwinfo64_download.html

Also about your project, take tons of pictures! we like to see lots, maybe even putting together a guide would be cool







.

Lastly welcome to OCN! Noticed your a new poster, should def. hit the rig builder button at the top right of the page and create your build, then go to your profile page (click your name in the top right corner) and add to your sig (like mine) so we can see your build







always good to have a handy reminder when questions are asked


----------



## mayford5

[


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



quote name="Audiophile1178" url="/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/6730#post_20660430"]
Andrew,

I registered early to answer your post as I was going to signup and post pictures of my watercooling setup once I got it completed. I have the FX990-UD5 Rev 3.0 board and took off the VRM and Northbridge heatsink to measure it. The VRM bottom of the heatsink is 100mm long x 8mm wide. It might actually be 6mm wide as I'm going off of memory as I currently am away from all that information until the end of this week but I can tell you for 100% that the space in between the capacitors and chokes are 14mm. I've looked at just about every watercooling company possible to find a VRM block and it looks like Koolance is the ONLY company that makes something that's close. I bought the MVR-100 and CHC-122 block. The thing is that the MVR-100 won't clear the capacitors/chokes as they're 8mm high and the MVR-100 starts to widen ~5-6mm in height. In order to use the MVR-100 or the MVR-40 you'll need to use one of their plates to add enough height to clear the capacitors/chokes but the thing is the plates are much wider than 14mm. What you'll need to do is buy the 140mm plate and grind/cut it down to 13mm wide and 100mm long. Also, the CHC-122 is picky about what you can use. I ordered 1/2" XSPC barbs and the threads are too deep and won't let me screws it down all the way. I ordered Koolance NZL-V13B barbs hoping that'll work fine as Koolance said that it would. I'm hoping to have everything posted in about a week if you'd like to wait to see how everything turns out. If not, I believe that these parts will work fine as I'm pretty thorough about being very accurate about these sort of things. The only thing that I'm kinda iffy about is the MVR-100 mounting brackets as the screw holes on the motherboard are fairly close to the MVR-100 block and I don't know if the standard MVR-100 mounting will work ok so I'll either cut the MVR 140mm plate down to 100m and use the standard mounting method on the MVR-100 or keep it a little longer and try to mimic the ears on the original VRM block and use a similar mounthing method that the original VRM heatsink uses. Unfortunately, there's nothing that'll work for a southbridge as my video card covers it completely so there's no watercooling parts that'll work for that.[/quote]



Thank you that is exactly what I needed to hear. I will probalby wait to see what you have done to see what my next step is

Thanks aganin
Andrew


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The CPU temps you circled represent an individual core temp... instead you should pay attention to the CPU temp listed in the next section down... the third in the block beneath motherboard and northbridge... that is your actual CPU physical temp not just a single core. That's the one that you want to keep below 62 ... preferably closer to 50 to 55 under heavy loads... I know that means dialing back your overclock a couple notches or spending the money for a more intense cooling setup, but it's worth helping insure the longevity of your CPU. Don't feel bad though... I made the same rookie mistake myself and was politely educated about it by our more experienced brethren in this thread.


Just wanted to show you this:


not a photo from my PC but notice coretemp reading the same reading for cpu temp as hwinfo (Yellow). right above that in coretemp shows tjmax. if coretemp uses this to measure safe levels for tjmax im pretty sure thats the same one we are supposed to be using. I dont think the other one measured by the motherboard (Red) is right because it varies from mobo to mobo


----------



## Syde

Uh... Wrong thread. Nothing to see in this post, move along.


----------



## hurricane28

Hey guys,

My VRM is getting really hot like 70c under full load with CPU @5ghz and CPUNB 2570 1.4 volts. i was wondering if i can use the same thermal paste for CPU on the heat sinks or do i need thermal pads?

Thnx in advanced


----------



## FiatluX

If it´s non conducting it shouldn´t be a problem with thermal paste!


----------



## hurricane28

Ye i thought the same.

I will try this later on thnx man


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

The issue I had with thermal paste was the warping I couldn't get a good interface between the VRM's and the heatsink with paste I had to use the pad.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> My VRM is getting really hot like 70c under full load with CPU @5ghz and CPUNB 2570 1.4 volts. i was wondering if i can use the same thermal paste for CPU on the heat sinks or do i need thermal pads?
> 
> Thnx in advanced


I think it is a absolute must. The things are really porus and on top of them they are stamped or something and have a recess of either a number or letter, I don't remember which. I also used a Thermal Pad.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> The issue I had with thermal paste was the warping I couldn't get a good interface between the VRM's and the heatsink with paste I had to use the pad.


I opted to go with a thin layer of Prometech PK-3 on top of the mosfets and then my thermal pad plus then I put a haze of the thermal paste on the heatsink.
It seems to be working good.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah most do a combination of pad/paste. I would not use paste only as it may be slightly un-even and the pads are there to fill the gaps. Really paste shouldn't be needed you should be able to achieve what you need with some high quality thermal pads. I wouldn't worry too much about adding paste and maybe think about getting better pads, since you will need them anyways.


----------



## levontraut

hi guys.

I am looing at getting a new board.

I currently have a ud5 rev1.0

I am looking at getting a new ud5 but what rev must I go too please? or must I just get a ud7?

now saying all this I want to go full water cooling including on the motherboard...

what do you suggest and what full blocks are out there for the boards?

cheers
levon


----------



## dmfree88

if you can afford it the step up to UD7 would be better. The new ud5 rev 3 is still got some kinks they are working out. Rev 1.1 seems to be working good for me but if I were you Id still go for UD7 if you can.

Not sure what blocks fit but you could probably ask this guy here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1412530/holodeck-xi-amd-quadfire-extreme-watercooling-buildlog


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> if you can afford it the step up to UD7 would be better. The new ud5 rev 3 is still got some kinks they are working out. Rev 1.1 seems to be working good for me but if I were you Id still go for UD7 if you can.
> 
> Not sure what blocks fit but you could probably ask this guy here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1412530/holodeck-xi-amd-quadfire-extreme-watercooling-buildlog


http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html


----------



## dmfree88

There he be







told you







LoL


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> There he be
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> told you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LoL


I must be getting too predictable


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html


you think that would fit the UD5?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel.html
> 
> 
> 
> you think that would fit the UD5?
Click to expand...

Nope , that is UD7 only . the layout is different and the top PCIe slot is higher if memory serves. I think he is going to have to take your suggestion and move to the UD7.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> you think that would fit the UD5?


I think it will but not to sure.

on one of the forums I came across, there was a user that put it on a ud5... that is why I am asking.

but yes the ud7 does look very tasty.

what is better over the ud5 on the ud7?


----------



## hurricane28

okay thanx guys i will go order some better thermal pads and hopefully my temps get down, otherwise i have to find some other solution


----------



## dmfree88

mostly just the fact that the UD5 is not able to overclock as high as the UD7. If your looking to really push the envelope the UD7 will take you further, a better all around board. Plus the UD5 still needs another rev to come out before it stops sucking lol.

Main thing is the better vrm and vrm placement. If you dont plan on going quad crossfire you probably wont see alot of difference in the ud5 vs ud7. But really its a better quality board all around and there has not been nearly as many issues with it.

Basically its UD5 vs Asus Sabertooth and sabertooth wins

and its UD7 vs Asus Crosshair V Formula Z that are both about the same level of quality but I think the UD7 has the slight advantage due to rugged strength.

Really its 2 completely different levels of motherboard, if you can afford the ud7 you wont regret it im sure, if you already have a ud5 the only difference you will see is uefi and LLC which is not a great combination on the ud5 at this moment







. If they come out with a rev4 or some new bios updates maybe the ud5 will see its time again, but uefi killed the ud5.

If you cant really afford the jump to UD7 you would probably be happier with the sabertooth.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> mostly just the fact that the UD5 is not able to overclock as high as the UD7. If your looking to really push the envelope the UD7 will take you further, a better all around board. Plus the UD5 still needs another rev to come out before it stops sucking lol.
> 
> Main thing is the better vrm and vrm placement. If you dont plan on going quad crossfire you probably wont see alot of difference in the ud5 vs ud7. But really its a better quality board all around and there has not been nearly as many issues with it.
> 
> Basically its UD5 vs Asus Sabertooth and sabertooth wins
> 
> and its UD7 vs Asus Crosshair V Formula Z that are both about the same level of quality but I think the UD7 has the slight advantage due to rugged strength.
> 
> Really its 2 completely different levels of motherboard, if you can afford the ud7 you wont regret it im sure, if you already have a ud5 the only difference you will see is uefi and LLC which is not a great combination on the ud5 at this moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If they come out with a rev4 or some new bios updates maybe the ud5 will see its time again, but uefi killed the ud5.
> 
> If you cant really afford the jump to UD7 you would probably be happier with the sabertooth.


well over the specs the gigabyte is better in the ram speeds. my ram speed default speed is 1866... and the asus you got to OC it to get those speeds. and the sabertooth does nto have as many sata ports and usb ports as the ud* mobo's


----------



## toshevopc

I have a question.. I am with 990FXA UD5 rev1.1 and as i see new bios update for the fx 9590 and fx 9370 support is released for rev 3.0 only. So is my rev finished? i mean if steamroller is on AM3+ is there any chance my rev 1.1 to support it or?


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toshevopc*
> 
> I have a question.. I am with 990FXA UD5 rev1.1 and as i see new bios update for the fx 9590 and fx 9370 support is released for rev 3.0 only. So is my rev finished? i mean if steamroller is on AM3+ is there any chance my rev 1.1 to support it or?


I have read somewhere that you need one of the new boards....

I think it really sucks TBH.... but buy it and give it a try... you never know


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toshevopc*
> 
> I have a question.. I am with 990FXA UD5 rev1.1 and as i see new bios update for the fx 9590 and fx 9370 support is released for rev 3.0 only. So is my rev finished? i mean if steamroller is on AM3+ is there any chance my rev 1.1 to support it or?


The articles I've seen state that's the UD3 Rev 4 and UD7 rev 3... none of them have mentioned the UD5 being able to support it... I would ask Gigbyte customer support since there's no definitive answer I could find... not that you'll get one from Gigabyte... but it's better to at least ask and try and find out. That why if it isn't, and you don't want to chance ruining your warranty, you'll be in the clear...


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> The articles I've seen state that's the UD3 Rev 4 and UD7 rev 3... none of them have mentioned the UD5 being able to support it... I would ask Gigbyte customer support since there's no definitive answer I could find... not that you'll get one from Gigabyte... but it's better to at least ask and try and find out. That why if it isn't, and you don't want to chance ruining your warranty, you'll be in the clear...


990fxa-ud5 rev.3.0 beta bios FCb added support for 9590 and 9370. It also added support for the 6350 and 4350. Just look under cpu support on the gigabyte website. http://www.gigabyte.us/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4455


----------



## toshevopc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> 990fxa-ud5 rev.3.0 beta bios FCb added support for 9590 and 9370. It also added support for the 6350 and 4350. Just look under cpu support on the gigabyte website. http://www.gigabyte.us/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4455


so this means that no new bios will be released for my rev. 1.1 for future processors on am3+ ? i'm so confused the boards are the same.. rev 3.0 have some uefi that's all


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toshevopc*
> 
> so this means that no new bios will be released for my rev. 1.1 for future processors on am3+ ? i'm so confused the boards are the same.. rev 3.0 have some uefi that's all


My guess is that either the 9590's and 9370's TDP requirement is either too high for the UD5 Rev 1.x or that they are still developing the bios update for the older UD5 boards. Either way... if you're going to spend that much on a CPU, to be honest, you can do much better upgrades to your system for the money... like waiting a month or two and getting a 9950/9970, or updating to an SSD boot drive, or both.


----------



## hurricane28

I totally agree with spaceman on that,

Max TDP of 220 is too much and honestly you need an very good cooler to cool that thing, and not even to mention the price.

Get an FX-8350 (most can clock to 5ghz) and you are golden. If you have a good one it blows the socks of I5 3570K and if you have a good overclocker it can even beat some I7 CPU's in gaming and some other stuff


----------



## itomic

Most CANT clock at 5.0 Ghz 24/7 with standard cooling ( high end air cooler and AIO water ).


----------



## toshevopc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> My guess is that either the 9590's and 9370's TDP requirement is either too high for the UD5 Rev 1.x or that they are still developing the bios update for the older UD5 boards. Either way... if you're going to spend that much on a CPU, to be honest, you can do much better upgrades to your system for the money... like waiting a month or two and getting a 9950/9970, or updating to an SSD boot drive, or both.


no i dont want centurion fx, i have atm fx 8350 but i'm concerned about steamroller support for 1.1 rev of my board (if steamroller is on am3+) because probably i will sell my cpu when steamroller comes and get one (my thoughts were if this board doesn't support centurion fx probably if wont support steamroller) i hope that they didn't stopped support for older rev. cuz i dont want to change the board


----------



## MadGoat

only reason it doesnt support it is because its too much TDP to maintain a 24/7 clock.

Our older 990fx boards should be able to support Steamroller and whatever else comes out as long as its not the over clocked junk that is the new 9xxx FX procs.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I totally agree with spaceman on that,
> 
> Max TDP of 220 is too much and honestly you need an very good cooler to cool that thing, and not even to mention the price.
> 
> Get an FX-8350 (most can clock to 5ghz) and you are golden. If you have a good one it blows the socks of I5 3570K and if you have a good overclocker it can even beat some I7 CPU's in gaming and some other stuff


Sorry the FX processor will never be as good in gaming. Why? the answer is simple games don't use all 8 cores, well most dont. A overclocked I7 be it a 3770k, or a 4770k simply blows away the Fx processors.

On another note. The 990fx UD3 rev 4.0 supports the 9590 and the 9370 FX processors. The Ud5 rev 3.0 supports it them as well. Of course the Rev 3.0 of the UD7 supports them as well.

So basically all the new Revision boards support the new processors. Will the older revision boards support any new AM3+ processors? probably not. Its not the TDP which is the issue, its Gigabyte's Bios support.


----------



## toshevopc

Maybe ebducan is right .. gigabyte can do this to get sales on new rev boards.. But on other hand Madgoat opinion is good too.. so the time will show what will happen


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toshevopc*
> 
> no i dont want centurion fx, i have atm fx 8350 but i'm concerned about steamroller support for 1.1 rev of my board (if steamroller is on am3+) because probably i will sell my cpu when steamroller comes and get one (my thoughts were if this board doesn't support centurion fx probably if wont support steamroller) i hope that they didn't stopped support for older rev. cuz i dont want to change the board


Don't expect SR to have an desktop release anytime before at the absolute earliest late 2014... if at all... it's looking like Centurion will be the end of the FX line. Do I think they'll release a SR desktop? maybe, there's a fair chance of it happening, but I don't see it using a years old chipset that doesn't support PCIe3... and with the progress they are making with APUs... I'm starting to think we'll not see a SR desktop unless they come up with something insane for a SR refresh... figure more likely that you're looking at early 2015 if we see any kind of desktop release of SR. Either they have another Athlon 64 lurking in the shadows that they aren't talking about, or they're holding off on the desktop market until they have something that competes better with Intel. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but when AMD isn't even talking about desktop CPUs that aren't part of the Fusion series... well... what can you think?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Don't expect SR to have an desktop release anytime before at the absolute earliest late 2014... if at all... it's looking like Centurion will be the end of the FX line. Do I think they'll release a SR desktop? maybe, there's a fair chance of it happening, but I don't see it using a years old chipset that doesn't support PCIe3... and with the progress they are making with APUs... I'm starting to think we'll not see a SR desktop unless they come up with something insane for a SR refresh... figure more likely that you're looking at early 2015 if we see any kind of desktop release of SR. Either they have another Athlon 64 lurking in the shadows that they aren't talking about, or they're holding off on the desktop market until they have something that competes better with Intel. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but when AMD isn't even talking about desktop CPUs that aren't part of the Fusion series... well... what can you think?


Steamroller APUs for the desktop will be out in late 2013..... I think you mean there will not be a Fx steamroller part for quite some time. I have no idea what Amd plans to do with the Steamroller Apus. Will it be like past parts only offered in dual core and quad core configurations. Or will the new Steamroller Apus offer a hex core or octacore parts. The the later is true, then you will not see a Fx line of Steamroller Cpu's.

Amd Apus already compete well with Intel's offerings in the same price range. Ie you can have a A10-6800k for the same price as a I3-3245. In most cases the APU is faster. Granted it does use more power.

The shear number of Fm2+ motherboards coming out points to the direction that AMD has no plans to release any further Am3+ cpus. Their Line up will likely all move to the Fm2+ boards. We will know a lot more come the end of October.


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> okay thanx guys i will go order some better thermal pads and hopefully my temps get down, otherwise i have to find some other solution


Good to see you around Hurricane! I hope you'll be back in the Vishera thread soon. Take care mate!


----------



## os2wiz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Nope , that is UD7 only . the layout is different and the top PCIe slot is higher if memory serves. I think he is going to have to take your suggestion and move to the UD7.


Nice to see you around here. I am a little humbled, that semi-castration I received on the Crosshair V F z thread really upset me. I know I am a little bit on the bleeding edge with my comments, but I had no idea the hornets nest it would stir up.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Nice to see you around here. I am a little humbled, that semi-castration I received on the Crosshair V F z thread really upset me. I know I am a little bit on the bleeding edge with my comments, but I had no idea the hornets nest it would stir up.


Eh? From the few comments of yours I have seen you seem to be pretty sane. The vishera thread is infested with flat earthers. If they can't see what is happening right in front of their noses, how can anyone trust anything else they have to say? So there is no reason for me to go there.

Since I no longer own a Gigabyte product I guess it's time to say goodby to this thread. Time to go troll another thread. So..toodles!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *os2wiz*
> 
> Good to see you around Hurricane! I hope you'll be back in the Vishera thread soon. Take care mate!


Hey! how are you doing my friend?

I don't think i will be back in that thread but who knows


----------



## Audiophile1178

UD5 VRM cooling update!!!

It's been a few days and boy have I had tons of problems with Alphacool products. I ordered an Acrylic D5 pump top, as well as, their dual bay reservoir and BOTH of them leaked. Their Acrylic D5 Pump top has a HUGE design flaw in that they didn't CNC out the center part enough where the black impellor goes and the black impellor (center thing that spins) pushes against the pump top and can't move, as well as, it leaked. I thought that my pump died until I put it back in the old housing that I had for it and it worked fine. I e-mailed Alphacool as someone on their forum had the same problem and they pretty much told me to return it for something else but they're the only ones that make clear Acrylic pump tops for the D5 and that's what I wanted. In the end, I used my ingenuity and went to my local hardware store to try an idea that I had out. I bought a sheet of 1/16" rubber to make a custom rubber gasket to put in between the two pieces. I also picked up 20mm long screws as the ones that they provide are much shorter and there's more than enough predrilled threading in there to accommodate longer screws. Who knows why they give such short screws which makes it easier to strip out the threads on the Acrylic if you torque too much as there's only about 5mm of threads being grabbed with the screws that they provide. After spending some time making this gasket all the problems that plague this pump top (cracking of Acrylic back plate, leaking, impellor being jammed into top) are gone as the custom gasket solved all three!!! After I got that all done I thought that I was out of the woods and did my leak test again. As I was wiping the fingerprints off the Alphacool Acrylic Reservoir I noticed a little bit of water on my cloth and saw a small leak in the corner. After I repaired that all is working fine. For now... Knock on wood!

OK back to the important stuff... I am currently running my motherboard (GA-990FXA UD5 v3.0) with Koolance CHC-122 waterblock as my North Bridge block and MVR-100 waterblock as my VRM cooling block with a 140mm Heat Transfer Plate cut down to the size of the MVR-100 block. I also am using an XSPC Razor 5870 Block for my AMD 5870 Reference Card. Before I put the Razor 5870 block on I didn't think that there's be any way to put a CHC-122 on my South Bridge Chipset but after the block is on I can't see any reason for it not to work. The stock 5870 cooler is soooooo much bigger but once it's off there's so much more room. Now mind you I'm only using one graphics card so if you're using two you might not be able to put a water block on your South Bridge Chipset.

With that being said is there a way to check the temps of my VRM's and Northbridge chip to see if everything is working well? The blocks themselves are nice and cool but that doesn't mean that the chips are being cooled well. I used the thermal pads that came with the MVR-100 block on the VRM's and North Bridge. It said to use thermal compound on the North Bridge but the chipset is soooo small and I did that with the stock heat sink and it just melted thermal compount all down the chipset causing me to spend 2-3 hours cleaning the chipset as it was all gooed up with thermal compound. I didn't feel like taking that chance again so I used the thermal pads as I thought that it would be a better option as the North Bridge Chip is very small the CHC-122 is so much bigger than it. I thought that the thermal pads would be better suited to make sure there's no other contact with the little metal pieces on the chipset, as well as, help to keep good contact with the chipset itself.

BTW, I didn't do any tutorials or many pictures during the process as it already took long enough but I do have a lot of pictures to share that I think would be beneficial to the community. I'll see if I can create an album and post them up for everybody to look at. If there's any questions on anything I can try to answer them to the best of my abilities.

P.S. I'm guessing that I'm OFFICIALLY the first person to cool their MVR's on the UD5? Before doing this, I did a lot of research and saw no one ACTUALLY doing it and just a lot of guessing of what would work.


----------



## Mcarpen89

Hello 990fxa owners!

This is kind of a weird problem but since it seems to be related to my mobo I thought I would share the problem and the temporary solution.

I have the 990FXA-UD3 rev. 3, and until I read this thread, I had no idea that the rev. 3 was so poorly designed. I have a Phenom II X4 970 BE and a 630W PSU. While I was overclocking, I noticed in various CPU monitoring softwares that the multipliers on cores 1 through 3 would often drop either to x4 or to the stock x17.5. If it dropped to x4 I assumed that it was vdroop and/or related to the terrible VRM on my board, but that didn't explain why core 0 would keep the multiplier I set it at. Cores 1-3 would even stay at 17.5 if I set core 0 for a LOWER multiplier like x15.

Cool and Quiet is off.
C1E is off.
PC is set to high performance in Windows 7 control panel.

I eventually discovered that the multipliers seemed to work fine if you checked them in the BIOS, but once the machine booted they reverted back to x17.5. This lead me to the temporary solution: I can set the multiplier using the slider bars in AMD Overdrive and all four cores accept the new config until I reboot, at which point cores 1-3 revert back to 17.5 and core 0 remains unchanged.

Since I know that my config is otherwise stable in terms of voltages it's not a big deal to manually reset the multipliers each time I boot up, but it's kind of worrying since it shouldn't do that, and I would really like to know why it does.

If anyone else has been experiencing this problem and hasn't found a solution, try the above (but make sure your VRM gets some extra love just in case my solution is overriding Gigabyte's automatic throttling in the event of VRM overheat.

If anyone else has had this problem and found the source/a permanent solution, please feel free to reply and let us know.


----------



## Mcarpen89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Sorry the FX processor will never be as good in gaming. Why? the answer is simple games don't use all 8 cores, well most dont. A overclocked I7 be it a 3770k, or a 4770k simply blows away the Fx processors.
> 
> On another note. The 990fx UD3 rev 4.0 supports the 9590 and the 9370 FX processors. The Ud5 rev 3.0 supports it them as well. Of course the Rev 3.0 of the UD7 supports them as well.
> 
> So basically all the new Revision boards support the new processors. Will the older revision boards support any new AM3+ processors? probably not. Its not the TDP which is the issue, its Gigabyte's Bios support.


I'm sure BIOS is an issue as well, but TDP is a MAJOR concern if you're a 990fxa owner. If I'm going to spend $350+ on a processor, I don't want to have to make warranty-voiding modifications to my mobo just to get the thing running at stock speed. If you read stories from some 990fxa owners, they will tell you that even some fx-83** owners have problems with the VRM at stock speeds. The 9000-series FX is basically a factory-overclocked 8350, so I can only imagine how bad the VRM and even possibly the NB would overheat and that's before you even start trying to OC.


----------



## itomic

I dont have any throttling at 1.525V and 4.8Ghz running any benchmark !!!


----------



## steezebe

I'm trying to get rid of my UD5. how much would it be worth, 100% functioning, with the I/O plate slightly modified?

Ebay, here I come!


----------



## dmfree88

probably around $140 or so, id auction that bad boy no reserve!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Hello 990fxa owners!
> 
> This is kind of a weird problem but since it seems to be related to my mobo I thought I would share the problem and the temporary solution.
> 
> I have the 990FXA-UD3 rev. 3, and until I read this thread, I had no idea that the rev. 3 was so poorly designed. I have a Phenom II X4 970 BE and a 630W PSU. While I was overclocking, I noticed in various CPU monitoring softwares that the multipliers on cores 1 through 3 would often drop either to x4 or to the stock x17.5. If it dropped to x4 I assumed that it was vdroop and/or related to the terrible VRM on my board, but that didn't explain why core 0 would keep the multiplier I set it at. Cores 1-3 would even stay at 17.5 if I set core 0 for a LOWER multiplier like x15.
> 
> Cool and Quiet is off.
> C1E is off.
> PC is set to high performance in Windows 7 control panel.
> 
> I eventually discovered that the multipliers seemed to work fine if you checked them in the BIOS, but once the machine booted they reverted back to x17.5. This lead me to the temporary solution: I can set the multiplier using the slider bars in AMD Overdrive and all four cores accept the new config until I reboot, at which point cores 1-3 revert back to 17.5 and core 0 remains unchanged.
> 
> Since I know that my config is otherwise stable in terms of voltages it's not a big deal to manually reset the multipliers each time I boot up, but it's kind of worrying since it shouldn't do that, and I would really like to know why it does.
> 
> If anyone else has been experiencing this problem and hasn't found a solution, try the above (but make sure your VRM gets some extra love just in case my solution is overriding Gigabyte's automatic throttling in the event of VRM overheat.
> 
> If anyone else has had this problem and found the source/a permanent solution, please feel free to reply and let us know.


I'm guessing a little fine tuning of your OC will do you good. I experienced the same thing. One of the things to adjust is core voltage. Try increasing a notch. If those 2 cores still clock at your desired OC while the others were pretty low, they have REALLY nothing to do with the multiplier. Don't trust AOD either. As any changes you apply through AOD will clock the others cores the way you want them to. As the problem isn't throttling but the cores just can't lock to your desired clock. But on the contrary to what I have said about AOD, you can actually save a profile unto it. It will load your settings each time you boot.









If upping the Vs wont make them lock, try lowering those Vs as rev. 3 is a bit tricky on the voltages. IMO.


----------



## AzureSky

I was hoping I could get a quick answer

I currently have a sabertooth 990fx(r1), its onboard audio is dead, and its always been querky with clocking(auto on cpu/nb sets to 1.45v.... for example)

Im eyeing the ud7 as a replacement, but, Im worried my thermalright silver arrow may block the top pci-e slot.

this matters because, I have 2*7870's, + xonar dx1 +IBM BR10i raid card.

i have 11 hdds+dvd burner(all onboard ports and 4 raid card ports used)

I also have considered the asrock extrem 9 but, Im more drawn to the ud7....always prefered my gigabyte boards.....(only got the sabertooth because a buddy hooked me up with a sweet deal on it brand new)

so If i grab the board, and toss it into my cosmos medusa will I have any issues using a silver arrow sb-e extreme with 3 fans on it?


----------



## ebduncan

that is a very precise question.

Keep in mind the Ud7 has plenty of PCi-E slots. That is a very big air cooler, but it will fit. The top PCi-E slot will be close, but you should still be able to get your 7870 and still run the other 7870 and your sound/raid cards.


----------



## ebduncan

that is a very precise question.

Keep in mind the Ud7 has plenty of PCi-E slots. That is a very big air cooler, but it will fit. The top PCi-E slot will be close, but you should still be able to get your 7870 and still run the other 7870 and your sound/raid cards.


----------



## Mcarpen89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm guessing a little fine tuning of your OC will do you good. I experienced the same thing. One of the things to adjust is core voltage. Try increasing a notch. If those 2 cores still clock at your desired OC while the others were pretty low, they have REALLY nothing to do with the multiplier. Don't trust AOD either. As any changes you apply through AOD will clock the others cores the way you want them to. As the problem isn't throttling but the cores just can't lock to your desired clock. But on the contrary to what I have said about AOD, you can actually save a profile unto it. It will load your settings each time you boot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If upping the Vs wont make them lock, try lowering those Vs as rev. 3 is a bit tricky on the voltages. IMO.


That would make sense except that the multipliers for 1, 2, and 3 stay at 17.5 even if I order a lower multiplier (like x15) in the BIOS, so it can't be a voltage problem. Something is reverting the three cores back to stock multiplier during the boot process, because in the BIOS they are at x21.5, but in Windows I can use any hardware monitoring software (CPU-Z, HWinfo64, AOD) and they all agree that cores 1, 2, and 3 are using a different multiplier than core 0.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I love my UD3... I decided to try my luck with hybrid physx put an old 8800GTS in the last PCIE slot. Well the performance was terrible so I decided that I didn't need it after all so when I pulled the GTS out it brought the whole slot connector with it! Yes the lock was undone. Now I'm scared to remove the 7970 from the main slot lol


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I love my UD3... I decided to try my luck with hybrid physx put an old 8800GTS in the last PCIE slot. Well the performance was terrible so I decided that I didn't need it after all so when I pulled the GTS out it brought the whole slot connector with it! Yes the lock was undone. Now I'm scared to remove the 7970 from the main slot lol


dang man.... it sounds like whenever you can finally replace that board with an upgrade... you just need to go Office Space on it... That sucks.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well its still working just minus a slot. All the connectors are still in the board it just pulled the plastic off but I doubt I can push it back on without screwing them all up and shorting something out. I really need to replace this thing soon.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I love my UD3... I decided to try my luck with hybrid physx put an old 8800GTS in the last PCIE slot. Well the performance was terrible so I decided that I didn't need it after all so when I pulled the GTS out it brought the whole slot connector with it! Yes the lock was undone. Now I'm scared to remove the 7970 from the main slot lol


0_o....What. Holy crap, alright no more cleaning the 7950 separate from the case for me. That is freaking crazy.


----------



## miklkit

Both of the PCI-E card locks broke off right away on mine, but the whole slot cover coming off?









Maybe you should let the car sit for a bit and buy a quality motherboard.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I love my UD3...


i hope that was sarcastic after what you've been through


----------



## AzureSky

thanks, just wanted to check some asus boards it blocks the first slot so i didnt want to buy the board then find i couldnt use my cooler.


----------



## taowulf

I am always late to the AMD parties.









Just switched back to AMD with a 990FXA-UD3 and a FX-6850 as of a week ago on Friday.

FX-6350, no idea why I always type 6850...stupid numbers.


----------



## Sazz

I just added two 40mm gelid fans on the aftermarket MOSFET heatsink that I put on my UD3 board, here's a pic or two of it, just used zip tie's to put them in place xD.


----------



## dmfree88

what kind of mosfet heatsink is that?


----------



## miklkit

That looks like a Thermalright HR-09U type2. I still have one.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That looks like a Thermalright HR-09U type2. I still have one.


yeap, just modified the mounting brackets for it so that it would fit. works perfect so far 34C under gaming, will test more with overclocking once I am done with all my watercooling stuff =]


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mcarpen89*
> 
> That would make sense except that the multipliers for 1, 2, and 3 stay at 17.5 even if I order a lower multiplier (like x15) in the BIOS, so it can't be a voltage problem. Something is reverting the three cores back to stock multiplier during the boot process, because in the BIOS they are at x21.5, but in Windows I can use any hardware monitoring software (CPU-Z, HWinfo64, AOD) and they all agree that cores 1, 2, and 3 are using a different multiplier than core 0.


Sorry I forgot your's is a quad phenom. But in my experience fiddling things on a ud3 rev3, every little tweak I make inside the bios, I need to validate in windows using AOD. Say, fiddling with the memory timings for example, after POST, boot into windows, I open AOD right away, check on my clocks to have a hint if my settings were applied, and valid. Check on the Frequency / Voltages option, IF cores 2-7 were clocked lesser than cores 0-1(usual thing to happen on a mistuned OC I suppose). Not by a degree but a lot, i.e. desired clock 4.6: cores 0-1 were on 4599 MHz but cores 2-7 were on 1765 MHz,







I know right away that my settings weren't locked the way I want them to. What I do is, increase CPU-VID a click, Apply settings, and







my clocks are all sync'd, after that, I lower back that CPU-VID a click. That pretty much brings me back to my applied bios settings. But the clocks were now locked at ~4599 MHz. (In Windows at that moment at least)







Test, Bench, Stab. Happy, I restart my machine, fiddle with a voltage or a timing, boot to windows, check Clocks. If those clocks were locked, test again, bench again, stability again. Else, go fiddle with little things again to make those Freqs lock. Not that hard at all. Just time wasting.

And let me give you a hint on my cheapo system, I have my 8320 at 4667 MHz, it can be stable at 1.416 volts at the core or +0.075, + 0.075 CPU-NB VID, 267 base clock, X9 CPU NB multi or 1800MHz on the Bios, 2133 at 9-11-9-27-42-1t. But upon booting to Windows, my clocks were not synch'd like what you said. So think, what's wrong?. I go back to the BIOS, and entered + 0.050 for the Vcore, boot to windows, and my freqs were in synch. I'm not saying that voltages are the ones causing your problem coz' like I said, you need to fine tune your OC.







.

Go find that sweet spot and enjoy your OC!!!


----------



## mus1mus

Hello UD3 rev 3 owners,

I'm just sharing my experience OC'ing my Piledriver on our "beloved motherboard revision"







.

I don't know where to start this so please bear with me. My cheap system was composed of the following:

Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 rev. 3
AMD FX 8320
8 Gigs of Kingston HyperX Genesis 1866 C9
Palit GTX 650Ti Boost OC version
Windows 7 Professional 64

I am currently clocked at 4667 with 267 Blck. X9 CPU-NB and HT or 1800 on the bios. Voltages were both + 0.075 for Core and CPU-NB. Feeding them with RAM OC'd to 2133 @ 9-11-9-27-1t @1.75V. Unstable with Prime or anything. Can only be stable with AIDA64 but remains stable on everything that I do.







With pretty good temps on a Silver Arrow. That will do for me on the stability side I guess.







Can still push to 4.8 with + 0.100 on the V's but on this MOBO, it's not worth the temps and the performance gain is overshadowed by those frequent lock-ups. (board limit I guess)









Anyway, I found things that is both good and bad about this MOBO. I have no idea whether some of you guys were on this already so I will bring this up in a hope to find a solution from more experienced guys out here. I have tried the following settings: UD3 Rev 3 owners can try this.

Blck at 200 X 23 to give me 4.6
CPU-NB at 2400 or X12 (stock at X11 or 2200)
HT link at 2600
1866 Ram at 9-11-9-27-1t

You'd be surprised as I am.

My benchmark scores with the settings above were up by a hefty minimum of 5% on every CPU test I run. Plus, my RAM latencies were also shaved by about a couple of nanoseconds on AIDA64. Mind you my 4.667 at 267 Blck can already be compared to some 8350s running at 4.8. For example, these 2 submissions I have with Passmark.

http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=12240738874
http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=12226600778

This is a 9370 running @ 500 Mhz more.

http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=11910948458

Now, back to CPU-NB at 2400, that >5% increase can, I think, be compared to a 5GHz 8350. I know that's too much to compare with as I can only confirm this with my runs on Passmark, Cinebench. And most of the guys never trust Passmark.







But you can try this with your board.

The reason I brought this up is actually to seek some tips from you guys about a problem with that set-up.
CPU-NB frequency or multiplier on a UD3 rev3 I think is also tied to the PCIe clock. And that's a bad thing. As I can confirm this when testing Direct 3D tests. on Direct 3d 10 specifically. I cannot pass a test. My system would crash DX 10 as if my card was OC'd hard. But they're running at their stock speeds.







Is it my card not able to handle that OC'd CPU-NB? I don't think so as I am running on same CPU-NB frequency with a Bclk of 267. 267 X 9 = 2403. So my hunch it's the multiplier that was linked with the PCIe clock.

Now if there's only a way to stabilise this...


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Sorry I forgot your's is a quad phenom. But in my experience fiddling things on a ud3 rev3, every little tweak I make inside the bios, I need to validate in windows using AOD. Say, fiddling with the memory timings for example, after POST, boot into windows, I open AOD right away, check on my clocks to have a hint if my settings were applied, and valid. Check on the Frequency / Voltages option, IF cores 2-7 were clocked lesser than cores 0-1(usual thing to happen on a mistuned OC I suppose). Not by a degree but a lot, i.e. desired clock 4.6: cores 0-1 were on 4599 MHz but cores 2-7 were on 1765 MHz,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know right away that my settings weren't locked the way I want them to. What I do is, increase CPU-VID a click, Apply settings, and
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> my clocks are all sync'd, after that, I lower back that CPU-VID a click. That pretty much brings me back to my applied bios settings. But the clocks were now locked at ~4599 MHz. (In Windows at that moment at least)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Test, Bench, Stab. Happy, I restart my machine, fiddle with a voltage or a timing, boot to windows, check Clocks. If those clocks were locked, test again, bench again, stability again. Else, go fiddle with little things again to make those Freqs lock. Not that hard at all. Just time wasting.
> 
> And let me give you a hint on my cheapo system, I have my 8320 at 4667 MHz, it can be stable at 1.416 volts at the core or +0.075, + 0.075 CPU-NB VID, 267 base clock, X9 CPU NB multi or 1800MHz on the Bios, 2133 at 9-11-9-27-42-1t. But upon booting to Windows, my clocks were not synch'd like what you said. So think, what's wrong?. I go back to the BIOS, and entered + 0.050 for the Vcore, boot to windows, and my freqs were in synch. I'm not saying that voltages are the ones causing your problem coz' like I said, you need to fine tune your OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Go find that sweet spot and enjoy your OC!!!


odd. Btw not all cores will be at max speed all the time with cool and quiet on. Btw the stock northbridge speed is 2200......


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> odd. Btw not all cores will be at max speed all the time with cool and quiet on. Btw the stock northbridge speed is 2200......


on a normal real world use no, but if you use synthetic benchmarks and or torture tests like Prime95/IBT you can make all cores run at the clocks you set them to.


----------



## BuZADAM

Hi all

I just buy and install amd fx 9370 cpu ..

so far so good my gigabyte 990fxa ud7 rev 1.0 mb.. any one WHO wants to ask question about curiosity


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> Hi all
> 
> I just buy and install amd fx 9370 cpu ..
> 
> so far so good my gigabyte 990fxa ud7 rev 1.0 mb.. any one WHO wants to ask question about curiosity


what bios are you using? i don't see the 9370 cpu as a supported cpu. Does it get detected properly?


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> what bios are you using? i don't see the 9370 cpu as a supported cpu. Does it get detected properly?


I'm using F11D bios for 990fxa ud7 rev1.0.. you are rigth not seen in cpu support list but it work normal without any issues


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> I'm using F11D bios for 990fxa ud7 rev1.0.. you are rigth not seen in cpu support list but it work normal without any issues


screen shots of cpuz... your word means nothing. I suppose a validation would work as well.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> screen shots of cpuz... your word means nothing. I suppose a validation would work as well.


ı added screen shoot. enough for you ?


----------



## ebduncan

cool.

hate to be a non believer, just wanted to make sure it worked, before I build another system based on the 9370


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> cool.
> 
> hate to be a non believer, just wanted to make sure it worked, before I build another system based on the 9370


no problem. if have any question about 990fxa ud7 rev 1.0 or 9370 cpu you can ask.


----------



## levontraut

hello boys and girls... I ordered my 990fx ud7 rev3.x yesterday.

I am really amped about it however I am not to sure how the on-board NIC is. does anybody know what it is like please? if it is crap I will buy a dedicated on. I do copy and transfer a LOT of data from and to my server and a lot on the internet as well.

the ud5 rev1.0 is alright... not the best but ok.

so what are your thoughts please?


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *levontraut*
> 
> hello boys and girls... I ordered my 990fx ud7 rev3.x yesterday.
> 
> I am really amped about it however I am not to sure how the on-board NIC is. does anybody know what it is like please? if it is crap I will buy a dedicated on. I do copy and transfer a LOT of data from and to my server and a lot on the internet as well.
> 
> the ud5 rev1.0 is alright... not the best but ok.
> 
> so what are your thoughts please?


where did you find rev3.0 ?.. ı use 990fxa ud7 rev 1.0. on board nic good for me . no lags no issue online game sharing file etc.. no need buy other one .. you can find youtube or Google test Realtek RTL8111E vs other.


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> where did you find rev3.0 ?.. ı use 990fxa ud7 rev 1.0. on board nic good for me . no lags no issue online game sharing file etc.. no need buy other one .. you can find youtube or Google test Realtek RTL8111E vs other.


http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-452-GI


----------



## Sazz

hmm, anyone else here have tried or seen someone use a 9 series CPU on a UD3 or UD5? if it works on UD7, I don't see why it won't work on UD3 or UD5 coz they all have essentially same core features, just UD5 and UD7 got more of some features but they got same Power Phase I believe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> ı added screen shoot. enough for you ?


dafuq.... 1.52v already at 4.4Ghz, heck a 8350 can get to 4.4Ghz at 1.4 to 1.425v (mine at 1.4v stable, 1.392v to be exact under load LLC isn't even kicking in yet.)

what's the stock voltage of it? if it has turbo core, what's the stock voltage when turbo core is off? coz reaching 1.52v at 4.4Ghz is waaay too much, that's overvolted like crazy, you should be able to reach 4.8Ghz at that voltage even 5Ghz if the chip allows you to.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AzureSky*
> 
> I was hoping I could get a quick answer
> 
> I currently have a sabertooth 990fx(r1), its onboard audio is dead, and its always been querky with clocking(auto on cpu/nb sets to 1.45v.... for example)
> 
> Im eyeing the ud7 as a replacement, but, Im worried my thermalright silver arrow may block the top pci-e slot.
> 
> this matters because, I have 2*7870's, + xonar dx1 +IBM BR10i raid card.
> 
> i have 11 hdds+dvd burner(all onboard ports and 4 raid card ports used)
> 
> I also have considered the asrock extrem 9 but, Im more drawn to the ud7....always prefered my gigabyte boards.....(only got the sabertooth because a buddy hooked me up with a sweet deal on it brand new)
> 
> so If i grab the board, and toss it into my cosmos medusa will I have any issues using a silver arrow sb-e extreme with 3 fans on it?


It will be extremely close. if you can get a piece of paper in between the top slot (card) and the SB-E I would be surprised.
The Silver arrow is 147mm to the SB-E 154.4 which is bout the distance I had with the original SA

These are my 2009,2010,2011 builds with the UD7 before going water cooled with my latest build. as you can see it is a close one.


----------



## cyanide814

Ok now im not a noob to over clocking but im having a problem. Everytime i go to my bios to try to manually change the frequency of the CPU it doesn't let me change the values. I hover over it and try to hit enter and the + or - signs and it doesn't let me do anything. I tried to unlock the CPU and it still doesn't work. I would really like to know if anyone else is having this problem or how to fix it.


----------



## karupt

Anyone else having problems with sleep mode with the ud3 rev 3.0? Whenever I put the pc to sleep, it wakes back up within a few seconds or minutes.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> Anyone else having problems with sleep mode with the ud3 rev 3.0? Whenever I put the pc to sleep, it wakes back up within a few seconds or minutes.


I got a rev. 1.1 and no, I don't see this problem, it may be the GPU not the motherboard.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyanide814*
> 
> Ok now im not a noob to over clocking but im having a problem. Everytime i go to my bios to try to manually change the frequency of the CPU it doesn't let me change the values. I hover over it and try to hit enter and the + or - signs and it doesn't let me do anything. I tried to unlock the CPU and it still doesn't work. I would really like to know if anyone else is having this problem or how to fix it.


What CPU and what motherboard/revision?


----------



## DireLeon2010

Planning on getting a 6350 or 8350. Is the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 a good overclocking board for these chips?


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> Planning on getting a 6350 or 8350. Is the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 a good overclocking board for these chips?


Sort answer is NO.
You will get only moderate overclocking and not full potential overclocking. Stay away from rev 3.
I own that board and i recommend you stick with 95W chip such as fx6300 or below. Such chips run cooler and OC very high, my fx4300 is at 4.7 stable


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Sort answer is NO.
> You will get only moderate overclocking and not full potential overclocking. Stay away from rev 3.
> I own that board and i recommend you stick with 95W chip such as fx6300 or below. Such chips run cooler and OC very high, my fx4300 is at 4.7 stable


as long as he gets a UD3 board that is not rev. 3.0 he's good. I mean you will see tons of people using a UD3 board with 5Ghz OC on a 8350, the only bad thing that I've seen are the newer revisions which is rev. 3.0 and later which tells me it's because of the UEFI Bios that they got with them.

I've had rev 1.0 and 1.1 and the rev 1.0 that is in my old rig got the 8350 i used on it at 5Ghz while this one I got is doing good so far altho I haven't tried any major overclocking (until I get all my watercooling stuff done) but I am running my 8350 at 4.4Ghz at 1.35v


----------



## dmfree88

rev4 seems to be better. had one person with problems and one person with good results.. dont really know yet not enough people with rev4 to confirm


----------



## bond32

Where are you guys getting the rev 4.0 board? I'm just curious


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Where are you guys getting the rev 4.0 board? I'm just curious


I know one got it from a RMA, and I'm assuming the only stores that are selling the R4 are those who have finally used all their stock of R3.


----------



## aidhanc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> Anyone else having problems with sleep mode with the ud3 rev 3.0? Whenever I put the pc to sleep, it wakes back up within a few seconds or minutes.


I don't think that's a motherboard problem, the same was happening to me on my rev 1.1. I found out it was the built in ethernet keeping the computer awake.

Just go into device manager, right click devices most likely to cause the issue, go to power management and untick "Allow this device to wake the computer".
Also make sure the right sleep mode is selected in your bios.


----------



## cyanide814

Figured out the problem. you have to use the + or - sign on the NUM PAD.


----------



## karupt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aidhanc*
> 
> I don't think that's a motherboard problem, the same was happening to me on my rev 1.1. I found out it was the built in ethernet keeping the computer awake.
> 
> Just go into device manager, right click devices most likely to cause the issue, go to power management and untick "Allow this device to wake the computer".
> Also make sure the right sleep mode is selected in your bios.


Just had a glance through the bios, what exactly am I looking for?


----------



## dmfree88

its not in the bios its in windows device manager (control panel)


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> Planning on getting a 6350 or 8350. Is the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 a good overclocking board for these chips?


IMO, depends on your OC target. I can just attest that 4.8 will be your stable limit on UD3 rev 3. anything higher above that even on four cores will be harder to achieve.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Sort answer is NO.
> You will get only moderate overclocking and not full potential overclocking. Stay away from rev 3.
> I own that board and i recommend you stick with 95W chip such as fx6300 or below. Such chips run cooler and OC very high, my fx4300 is at 4.7 stable


4.7 isn't bad of an OC mate.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> as long as he gets a UD3 board that is not rev. 3.0 he's good. I mean you will see tons of people using a UD3 board with 5Ghz OC on a 8350, the only bad thing that I've seen are the newer revisions which is rev. 3.0 and later which tells me it's because of the UEFI Bios that they got with them.
> 
> I've had rev 1.0 and 1.1 and the rev 1.0 that is in my old rig got the 8350 i used on it at 5Ghz while this one I got is doing good so far altho I haven't tried any major overclocking (until I get all my watercooling stuff done) but I am running my 8350 at 4.4Ghz at 1.35v[


Will watercooling a UD3 rev 3 raise it's OC headroom? Any other guys tried and got some good resluts on the board?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> odd. Btw not all cores will be at max speed all the time with cool and quiet on. Btw the stock northbridge speed is 2200......


Is that odd?



CPU-NB and HT-LINK frequencies on a UD3 rev 3 bios were displayed as a result of multiplying your HT ref Clock or Bclk by a certain number. At stock, Bclk = 200. 200 X 11 gives you a CPU-NB of 2200. X13 for the HT LINK. overclocking your HT ref will result to drastic HT-LINK and CPU-NB if you put it at stock numbers from the BIOS. Hence, getting the difficulty with OC'ing the HT ref from the stock of 200.

A little math needed
















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> on a normal real world use no, but if you use synthetic benchmarks and or torture tests like Prime95/IBT you can make all cores run at the clocks you set them to.


Once your CPU clocked like these, I can tell you, you can't do proper benching.


----------



## aidhanc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *karupt*
> 
> Just had a glance through the bios, what exactly am I looking for?


Power Management Setup > ACPI Sleep States (Or something along the lines of this)

Here's a Wikipedia article on the different options. I find S3[STR] works best for me.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> IMO, depends on your OC target. I can just attest that 4.8 will be your stable limit on UD3 rev 3. anything higher above that even on four cores will be harder to achieve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.7 isn't bad of an OC mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will watercooling a UD3 rev 3 raise it's OC headroom? Any other guys tried and got some good resluts on the board?


Oh I know best part is i can raise voltage up to .2+ to achieve 5.0 and have stable temp with air cooling below 60C.
Problem tho..is i cant keep it stable on prime...idk how to.


----------



## mus1mus

Hey guys, need some opinion these:

I am planning to purchase another computer. A better one from my current set-up. Can you guys justify if getting a FX-8350 with a better motherboard (probably Crosshair or UD7) yield me better results than what I am getting right now on my dirt cheap set-up?
Current Set-up:
AMD FX 8320 @ 4.67GHz
GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3
GTX 650TI-Boost
8 GB Kingston HyperX Genesis 1866C9

Current AIDA64 bench




Cinebench


Passmark




Showing some comparisons


And a quick run at 4.8




Now, will take this time to ask your opinion on my inquiry. Will getting a 8350 with a better Mobo give me better results?
I want to justify them on a price/performance point of view.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> Planning on getting a 6350 or 8350. Is the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 a good overclocking board for these chips?
> 
> 
> 
> IMO, depends on your OC target. I can just attest that 4.8 will be your stable limit on UD3 rev 3. anything higher above that even on four cores will be harder to achieve.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Sort answer is NO.
> You will get only moderate overclocking and not full potential overclocking. Stay away from rev 3.
> I own that board and i recommend you stick with 95W chip such as fx6300 or below. Such chips run cooler and OC very high, my fx4300 is at 4.7 stable
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 4.7 isn't bad of an OC mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> as long as he gets a UD3 board that is not rev. 3.0 he's good. I mean you will see tons of people using a UD3 board with 5Ghz OC on a 8350, the only bad thing that I've seen are the newer revisions which is rev. 3.0 and later which tells me it's because of the UEFI Bios that they got with them.
> 
> I've had rev 1.0 and 1.1 and the rev 1.0 that is in my old rig got the 8350 i used on it at 5Ghz while this one I got is doing good so far altho I haven't tried any major overclocking (until I get all my watercooling stuff done) but I am running my 8350 at 4.4Ghz at 1.35v[
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Will watercooling a UD3 rev 3 raise it's OC headroom? Any other guys tried and got some good resluts on the board?
Click to expand...

4.8? 4.5 would be perfect for me! It gets VERY hot here in Summer, so I wanted the 6350/8350 for their higher stock clocks. That way I can just set it to stock when the heat turns up outside and not feel like I have a space heater on my desk competing with the AC and ceiling fan. Winter is OC season in Phoenix. So 4.8 would rock then. And possibly help keep my feet warm


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> 4.8? 4.5 would be perfect for me! It gets VERY hot here in Summer, so I wanted the 6350/8350 for their higher stock clocks. That way I can just set it to stock when the heat turns up outside and not feel like I have a space heater on my desk competing with the AC and ceiling fan. Winter is OC season in Phoenix. So 4.8 would rock then. And possibly help keep my feet warm


4.5 will be very doable on a 8350. My 8320 can be very stable at that speed without putting a lot of voltage, therefore running VERY cool on the high 40's at load. I would just like to add though, 4.8 is very doable. But on the UD3 rev 3, you'd never know. IMO, this motherboard isn't really for big clocks. And as what people here have been saying, stay out of it if you want to enjoy your purchase. Other revisions will be fine.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> 4.8? 4.5 would be perfect for me! It gets VERY hot here in Summer, so I wanted the 6350/8350 for their higher stock clocks. That way I can just set it to stock when the heat turns up outside and not feel like I have a space heater on my desk competing with the AC and ceiling fan. Winter is OC season in Phoenix. So 4.8 would rock then. And possibly help keep my feet warm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.5 will be very doable on a 8350. My 8320 can be very stable at that speed without putting a lot of voltage, therefore running VERY cool on the high 40's at load. I would just like to add though, 4.8 is very doable. But on the UD3 rev 3, you'd never know. IMO, this motherboard isn't really for big clocks. And as what people here have been saying, stay out of it if you want to enjoy your purchase. Other revisions will be fine.
Click to expand...

So....to be safe, the consensus seems to be to get something like this at least?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128509

Maybe I should just go for an ASUS. But their prices are similar.


----------



## hurricane28

Yes, i have the Gigsbyte 990FXA-UD5 and i am very pleased with it so far.

I don't know much about Asus boards but they are pretty similar as far as i know of and hear of so both are great upgrades


----------



## LazarusIV

Quick question guys... I have the mobo in my sig rig, a UD5 Rev 1.1. I use HWinfo64 to monitor my temps and I thought Temp 3 was VRMs, is that so? I just attached a 120mm Scythe Slipstream fan to blow on them since I was getting upwards of 72C on temp 3. I just ran some AVX IBT thinking my temp 3 (what I think is VRM temps) would be lower but they weren't! What the hell!?!? Am I wrong, is temp 3 something besides VRM? What is the VRM temp sensor in HWInfo64?

Appreciate any help guys and gals!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Quick question guys... I have the mobo in my sig rig, a UD5 Rev 1.1. I use HWinfo64 to monitor my temps and I thought Temp 3 was VRMs, is that so? I just attached a 120mm Scythe Slipstream fan to blow on them since I was getting upwards of 72C on temp 3. I just ran some AVX IBT thinking my temp 3 (what I think is VRM temps) would be lower but they weren't! What the hell!?!? Am I wrong, is temp 3 something besides VRM? What is the VRM temp sensor in HWInfo64?
> 
> Appreciate any help guys and gals!


Hey man,

Yes the temp 3 is VRM.

I have the same problem! my temps under full load were going to almost 70c and i have a 120mm CM sickelflow blowing on it but no temp drops.

I do notice that my case has a really bad airflow Corsair obsidian 650D. I have one of the best 200mm fan in front of it but it is still not enough i guess because when i open my side panel the temp dropped a few degrees.

So maybe in your case the airflow is bad?

My solution is to take the heat sink of the VRM and SB and apply new TIM on it and hopefully the temp drops more


----------



## miklkit

Have you guys thought about buying an infrared thermometer? I have one and the results are surprising. It also ends all questions about which temp reading is what.

You guys are seeing 70C? How hot is the case behind your VRMs when you touch it with your hand while stress testing? My UD3 was too hot to touch there.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Have you guys thought about buying an infrared thermometer? I have one and the results are surprising. It also ends all questions about which temp reading is what.
> 
> You guys are seeing 70C? How hot is the case behind your VRMs when you touch it with your hand while stress testing? My UD3 was too hot to touch there.


Well since you already have one... nah im kidding









No seriously it is getting pretty hot and when i am stress testing i would not dare to touch it with my bare hand/finger because i ques i would burn myself.

Even when its at idle speed the SB and VRM's are pretty hot so i can imagine that under stress testing its getting near 70c.

Of course there is always an margin of error but i believe HWINFO64 is one of the best reliable for temp readings as far as i know.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hey man,
> 
> Yes the temp 3 is VRM.
> 
> I have the same problem! my temps under full load were going to almost 70c and i have a 120mm CM sickelflow blowing on it but no temp drops.
> 
> I do notice that my case has a really bad airflow Corsair obsidian 650D. I have one of the best 200mm fan in front of it but it is still not enough i guess because when i open my side panel the temp dropped a few degrees.
> 
> So maybe in your case the airflow is bad?
> 
> My solution is to take the heat sink of the VRM and SB and apply new TIM on it and hopefully the temp drops more


Looks like I'll be doing that when I get home then... Blast! Ah well. So hurricane, pissed off gerty lately?









Airflow in the case should be excellent, I've got 2 120mm slipstreams as intake on top (1 attached to my H50), 2 140mm bGears bBlasters as intake up front, 1 FD 140mm as intake on the bottom, and 1 FD 140mm as intake on the side as well as the slipstream blowing directly on the vrms. The back exhaust is fan free, I have a very positive airflow layout because we've got 2 cats and a dog so fur and dust is a huge issue...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Looks like I'll be doing that when I get home then... Blast! Ah well. So hurricane, pissed off gerty lately?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Airflow in the case should be excellent, I've got 2 120mm slipstreams as intake on top (1 attached to my H50), 2 140mm bGears bBlasters as intake up front, 1 FD 140mm as intake on the bottom, and 1 FD 140mm as intake on the side as well as the slipstream blowing directly on the vrms. The back exhaust is fan free, I have a very positive airflow layout because we've got 2 cats and a dog so fur and dust is a huge issue...


That sounds like a good idea man









And no i do not piss off gerty LOL he pisses me off sometimes but i hope we can have that all behind us now and act like grown men









So you musty have an excellent airflow n your case than so the only thing i can think of is to replace the TIM.

Let met know how that works for you will ya?


----------



## miklkit

I bought the IR thermometer after I got rid of the UD3 so can not help you there. But it does end any confusion as you can put the red dot exactly where you want to check temps.

This is not a Gigabyte board but right now while idling the South Bridge is at 29C, the North Bridge is at, depending on where the dot is, 36-39C, and the VRM cooler is at 32-35C. I have not seen the VRM cooler go over 42C while stress testing although what I think is the VRM temps in HWINFO64 has gone as high as 59C.

To me the IR thermometer is $25 well spent.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I bought the IR thermometer after I got rid of the UD3 so can not help you there. But it does end any confusion as you can put the red dot exactly where you want to check temps.
> 
> This is not a Gigabyte board but right now while idling the South Bridge is at 29C, the North Bridge is at, depending on where the dot is, 36-39C, and the VRM cooler is at 32-35C. I have not seen the VRM cooler go over 42C while stress testing although what I think is the VRM temps in HWINFO64 has gone as high as 59C.
> 
> To me the IR thermometer is $25 well spent.


that's okay mate i was kidding









Well this is quite interesting and confusing here because they say that the VRM's are rated for 100c plus but is that the sensor temp or is that the hardware temp?

The VRM on the UD5 are trotting way before hitting 100c mark, the save temp is at 70c i believe.

So my point is is that you said there is some big difference between what the HWINFO64 reads and the real temp, so that would say that the specs for that are incorrect right?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DireLeon2010*
> 
> So....to be safe, the consensus seems to be to get something like this at least?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128509
> 
> Maybe I should just go for an ASUS. But their prices are similar.


yeah the consensus seems to be actually go asus. the m5a99x pro r2 or the sabertooth seem to be the better option. The UD5 is not too bad but still most choose sabertooth over UD5.. they seemed to mess up the ud5 and the ud3 by adding UEFI. Rev 3 of the UD5 and Rev3 of the UD3 are messed up, Rev4 of ud3 seem to be ok and hopefully ud5 comes up with another rev soon. But either way it seems to be the consensus that asus is currently the better option for amd overclocking


----------



## miklkit

I just did a little experiment and cranked up the cpu fsb frequency to get the board hotter and now I'm thinking what I thought was the VRMs is actually the north bridge. The temps match up better now with the NB running hot and the VRMs running cooler. Maybe some day I'll get this right.


----------



## dmfree88

are you playing with the rev4 ud3 still miklkit? or the msi again?


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Just wanted to show you this:
> 
> 
> not a photo from my PC but notice coretemp reading the same reading for cpu temp as hwinfo (Yellow). right above that in coretemp shows tjmax. if coretemp uses this to measure safe levels for tjmax im pretty sure thats the same one we are supposed to be using. I dont think the other one measured by the motherboard (Red) is right because it varies from mobo to mobo


Hi dmfree88, apologies if I screwed up my response, I'm new to the forum. Any who, I clicked on the your pic of temperatures, then in gallery few went to the next pic, where I saw (I assume) your VRM heatsink,
which is an aftermarket heatsink replacement, with what looks like, 2 40mm fans zip tied onto the heatsink. Is that your heatsink on your UD5? Did it improve the VRM temperatures? I have a UD3 (rev 3.0), and an FX-8350, using a closed loop liquid cooler which works well enough (Corsair H80i).

However, I also have throttling and high temps on my VRM. I was going to rig 2 40mm fans on the back of the factory supplied VRM heatsink as an experiment to reduce temperatures. If that is your heatsink, who is the manufacturer, and do you think they make a heatsink that would fit the UD3? Thanks in advance.


----------



## dmfree88

actually that picture is from someone elses heatsink. its on a ud3 actually. It does however have to be modified to fit but it will work, quite a few people have done it now. Ill try to find the model soon (im working)


----------



## smorch

Thanks! If you can identify the model Mosfet heatsink that would be great! I believe I can still get a hold of a Thermalright HR-09U, or HR-09S, which
might fit my GA-990FXA-UD3. I believe an Enzotech MST-88 will fit, but I don't think it's sturdy enough to attach dual 40mm fans to it.
Any alternatives are welcome!


----------



## miklkit

That heat sink is a Thermalright HR-09U Type2. It is rare but can still be found. I still have the one I used on my UD3. I mounted it with no.4 nuts and bolts and a combination of no.4 washers and no.6 plastic washers. I also used nylock nuts because you do not want to tighten them much at all.
But others have made mounts, used epoxy, and even used zip ties. Any port in a storm!

The UD3 is long gone and I am happy with the MSI. I just need to learn how to dial in the RAM, FSB, HTT, PLL, and a bunch of other stuff I do not understand.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That heat sink is a Thermalright HR-09U Type2. It is rare but can still be found. I still have the one I used on my UD3. I mounted it with no.4 nuts and bolts and a combination of no.4 washers and no.6 plastic washers. I also used nylock nuts because you do not want to tighten them much at all.
> But others have made mounts, used epoxy, and even used zip ties. Any port in a storm!
> 
> The UD3 is long gone and I am happy with the MSI. I just need to learn how to dial in the RAM, FSB, HTT, PLL, and a bunch of other stuff I do not understand.


Thanks! Did you attach 40mm fans to the heatsink too? Did the mod help cool the Mosfets (VRM) noticeably? I assume the additional hardware can be purchased through my
local hardware store.


----------



## miklkit

Yes I bought the nuts and bolts at the local hardware store. No I did not put a fan on it because it sits high enough that it got into the air stream going from the back of the CPU cooler to the rear exhaust fan. It replaced an Enzotech MST-88 and I think the temps dropped about 5-6C. It was too late tho as the board was already warped from the heat.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Thanks! Did you attach 40mm fans to the heatsink too? Did the mod help cool the Mosfets (VRM) noticeably? I assume the additional hardware can be purchased through my
> local hardware store.


That was my UD3 board with the Thermalrite heatsink and two 40mm fans, and yes it improved my temps. before my MOSFET hits 55C under load and with the new heatsink I hit 45C under load and added two 40mm fans it got down to 43C. so yeah they do work. but the fans I got on it are quite weak.. I might replace them with a lot more powerful fans.

And anyone else here having trouble on making the OC stable on their UD3 rev 1.0/1.1?

Funny coz when I set my LLC to Extreme my system is unstable. but when I set it on normal the system at same exact clocks and voltage is stable. LOL

I plan on reverting back my BIOS to see if its a BIOS version issue, but what the heck all I had to do is put the LLC control on normal. that works for me xD


----------



## istudy92

Qucik random question how many GPU can Ud-3 support just 2 or 4?
Nvm found the answer here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1344853/gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud3-vs-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud5/0_40

just SLI ud5 does tri


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> That was my UD3 board with the Thermalrite heatsink and two 40mm fans, and yes it improved my temps. before my MOSFET hits 55C under load and with the new heatsink I hit 45C under load and added two 40mm fans it got down to 43C. so yeah they do work. but the fans I got on it are quite weak.. I might replace them with a lot more powerful fans.


Thanks for the feedback! My budget is too tight to allow an upgrade to say an Asus Sabertooth or Crosshair, which seem to be the premier AMD boards for overclocking FX processors. However, I can free up enough cash to replace the heatsink on my UD3 and add some 40mm fans. I checked on verious 40mm fans, and found some which might fit the bill (reasonably high pressure for a 40x40x10mm fan):
the Fractal Design Silent Series, which are rated wit Max Airflow (CFM) = 4.53, and Max Pressure (mm H20) = 1.95, which is better than most fans in the 40x40x10mm category.

I can pick the Fractal Design fans and Thermalright HR-09U heatsink up at the same place, www.performance-pcs.com. The fans are $7.95 US each, and the heatsink is $18.95 US. I figure its worth the price if I
can drop my VRM temps by 10+ C. It's my understanding, that the cooler the VRMs, the cooler the CPU...not sure thats a given, but I read it somewhere.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Thanks for the feedback! My budget is too tight to allow an upgrade to say an Asus Sabertooth or Crosshair, which seem to be the premier AMD boards for overclocking FX processors. However, I can free up enough cash to replace the heatsink on my UD3 and add some 40mm fans. I checked on verious 40mm fans, and found some which might fit the bill (reasonably high pressure for a 40x40x10mm fan):
> the Fractal Design Silent Series, which are rated wit Max Airflow (CFM) = 4.53, and Max Pressure (mm H20) = 1.95, which is better than most fans in the 40x40x10mm category.
> 
> I can pick the Fractal Design fans and Thermalright HR-09U heatsink up at the same place, www.performance-pcs.com. The fans are $7.95 US each, and the heatsink is $18.95 US. I figure its worth the price if I
> can drop my VRM temps by 10+ C. It's my understanding, that the cooler the VRMs, the cooler the CPU...not sure thats a given, but I read it somewhere.


I am selling my board right now, but if I end up keeping it I will use this one as fan on the VRM, its freakin loud but at 50% speed its quiet and it pushes about same amount of air as your average 120mm case fan which is great at 50% speed for a 40mm fan, if I push this at 100% speed you will definitely hear it but god dang its a little tornado xD


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> I am selling my board right now, but if I end up keeping it I will use this one as fan on the VRM, its freakin loud but at 50% speed its quiet and it pushes about same amount of air as your average 120mm case fan which is great at 50% speed for a 40mm fan, if I push this at 100% speed you will definitely hear it but god dang its a little tornado xD


Yikes! At 14000 rpm that is a lil' tornado! Too bad they don't list the pressure; it's my understanding that with radiators, and I also think heatsink fans,
that the pressure is more important than CFM. And you're right about the volume... at 49.4 dB, that's a screamer. The Fractal Design fans I mentioned
are only 18 dB, but have a much lower CFM @ 4.53 CFM, and a max RPM of only 4000, but they have a respectable 1.95 mm H2O of pressure.

I'm guessing that CoolJag Everflow, even at 50% speed, puts out quite a bit of airflow.
You could probably use it to power a radio controlled airplane I think!


----------



## hurricane28

I have the Cooler master sickleflow and i am surprised by its performance.

2000 R.P.M.

69.69 CFM
2.94 mmH2O 19 dB-A

I have 2 of them in my rig and even at full speed i do not hear them at all. Also they are very cheap so if you looking for one of the best performing quiet fans i would suggest to buy the sickleflows they amazed me


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Yikes! At 14000 rpm that is a lil' tornado! Too bad they don't list the pressure; it's my understanding that with radiators, and I also think heatsink fans,
> that the pressure is more important than CFM. And you're right about the volume... at 49.4 dB, that's a screamer. The Fractal Design fans I mentioned
> are only 18 dB, but have a much lower CFM @ 4.53 CFM, and a max RPM of only 4000, but they have a respectable 1.95 mm H2O of pressure.
> 
> I'm guessing that CoolJag Everflow, even at 50% speed, puts out quite a bit of airflow.
> You could probably use it to power a radio controlled airplane I think!


To put it in perspective. this fan can lift itself at 100% fan speed, that's how much pressure it has xD


----------



## Hellsrage

Well the time is boiling down and I gotta figure out what board I'm going to buy to replace the devil that is currently smoldering in my case. I hate Gigabyte but I'm stuck between the GA-990FXA-UD7 and the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z, the main thing is looks. Somewhat of a silly reason but my rig was geared towards black/orange and well the Asus board it pretty bright red/white and I'm not too sure how it would look with orange UV tubing, orange RAM and my orange/black case.

Do I stare at a what could possible be a very ugly combo, or do I buy the UD7 and hope it has no issues?

I could possibly have a black, white, red, and orange paint combo on a new case? (As much as I like the NZXT Phantom, some of the newer cases are pretty sick)


----------



## paulwarden2505

i have the ud7 rev 1.1 its a great board just so big had not realized it was an eatx board when i picked it up personally i would say go with gigabyte board as it would save you money by not having to change your tubing etc am toying with idea of getting the rev 3.0 for my next build


----------



## levontraut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Well the time is boiling down and I gotta figure out what board I'm going to buy to replace the devil that is currently smoldering in my case. I hate Gigabyte but I'm stuck between the GA-990FXA-UD7 and the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z, the main thing is looks. Somewhat of a silly reason but my rig was geared towards black/orange and well the Asus board it pretty bright red/white and I'm not too sure how it would look with orange UV tubing, orange RAM and my orange/black case.
> 
> Do I stare at a what could possible be a very ugly combo, or do I buy the UD7 and hope it has no issues?
> 
> I could possibly have a black, white, red, and orange paint combo on a new case? (As much as I like the NZXT Phantom, some of the newer cases are pretty sick)


Gigabyte just because the stock specs are better and they are both overclock well


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Well the time is boiling down and I gotta figure out what board I'm going to buy to replace the devil that is currently smoldering in my case. I hate Gigabyte but I'm stuck between the GA-990FXA-UD7 and the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z, the main thing is looks. Somewhat of a silly reason but my rig was geared towards black/orange and well the Asus board it pretty bright red/white and I'm not too sure how it would look with orange UV tubing, orange RAM and my orange/black case.
> 
> Do I stare at a what could possible be a very ugly combo, or do I buy the UD7 and hope it has no issues?
> 
> I could possibly have a black, white, red, and orange paint combo on a new case? (As much as I like the NZXT Phantom, some of the newer cases are pretty sick)


was there a reason that you need UD7 or CVFZ? doing quad sli/crossfire? if not why not go for a UD5?, anyways I have handled the CVFZ and UD5 and I can say the thing I like about the asus one is the digital power phase, its more precise compared to the ones with the UD series, but the PCB is thinner and feels clumsier compared to the UD series, and the onboard sound chip! the UD series is MUCH MUCH better compared to the asus one, like heaven and earth difference. so I've always opted for UD series since overall you get more out of your buck, but I switched to the Sabertooth (God awful color scheme, gonna paint most of the **** color LOL) coz its the best overclocking board out there for the 990FX chipset.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> was there a reason that you need UD7 or CVFZ? doing quad sli/crossfire? if not why not go for a UD5?, anyways I have handled the CVFZ and UD5 and I can say the thing I like about the asus one is the digital power phase, its more precise compared to the ones with the UD series, but the PCB is thinner and feels clumsier compared to the UD series, and the onboard sound chip! the UD series is MUCH MUCH better compared to the asus one, like heaven and earth difference. so I've always opted for UD series since overall you get more out of your buck, but I switched to the Sabertooth (God awful color scheme, gonna paint most of the **** color LOL) coz its the best overclocking board out there for the 990FX chipset.


Nah, no SLI/Crossfire yet. I just want to get a good board and they have some really nice features as well that I would love to have since I want to get more in depth with OCing.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Nah, no SLI/Crossfire yet. I just want to get a good board and they have some really nice features as well that I would love to have since I want to get more in depth with OCing.


Well the main difference between UD5 and UD7 is the number of PCI-E slot but other than that, in terms of performance they are the same, so might wanna opt in on a UD5 instead and save yourself a few bucks. but as I have seen from people around, the latest revisions seems to have some throttling issue due to the BIOS being too sensitive about the VRM temps that it throttles it even when its waaaay under its max temp.

if you can find older revisions like 1.0 or 1.1 of the UD5 that would be good, even UD3 is good coz they all have same power phase and the main difference between the UD series are the number of PCI-E slot at x16/8 speed and as far as I can tell just by looking is the heatsinks on the VRM's. check around the forums I am pretty sure there's some UD3/5 boards out there of an older revision. I can't advertise since its against ToS of this forums but check out anandtech trade section of their forums, there's one there =P can't link it directly coz that's considered advertisement xD


----------



## Hellsrage

Honestly, the only reason I was thinking about the UD7 was because of the color scheme, and the premium features that you don't get on the UD5 and aren't really necessary.









The extra money doesn't really mean much, I think what I'll do is grab a UD7 and torture it to see what happens, if I get problems send it back and switch to Asus. I'll deal with the colors later if I switch to Asus haha.


----------



## bbond007

I had the infamous Rev 3.0 and noticed it was doing the throttling while running prime95 (FX8320 CPU). I had already clipped the UPC code an sent in for the rebate so I could only exchange the board another of the exact same model, but they agreed to give me a different revision.

I walked out of there with a Rev 4.0.

I notice it does the same thing.... maybe not as frequently but it does seem to exhibit that same little hiccup...



The VRM thing does seem to be cooler to the touch so it was probably worth the hassle anyway.


----------



## boisssy

hey guys im having some issues with my oc crashing/bsod/freezing up on my current oc.

ive checked off everything that isn't need to oc and my mobo is rev 3, currently at the bios "FA" (the first build) i was wondering if i should update the bios to the latest one

my oc is only at 3.5ghz with .075 volts. Ive reached 4ghz stable before on my old mobo that i bricked, so i have a good idea of what im doing hah.

your thoughs? i hate this bios, its so lame to work with (i know updating the bios wont change the layout)


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boisssy*
> 
> hey guys im having some issues with my oc crashing/bsod/freezing up on my current oc.
> 
> ive checked off everything that isn't need to oc and my mobo is rev 3, currently at the bios "FA" (the first build) i was wondering if i should update the bios to the latest one
> 
> my oc is only at 3.5ghz with .075 volts. Ive reached 4ghz stable before on my old mobo that i bricked, so i have a good idea of what im doing hah.
> 
> your thoughs? i hate this bios, its so lame to work with (i know updating the bios wont change the layout)


What's the CPU?

Anyways rev 3.0 of the UD3/5 series are notriously known for its throttling issue, so I guess its this issue that is preventing you to get higher OC.. I've seen post everywhere to avoid the rev 3.0 and maybe even rev 4.0 as far as I've seen it has same exact problem as 3.0, so unfortunately the newer revisions sucks ass for overclocking... older rev like 1.0 and 1.1 isn't affected (I got my UD3 rev 1.1 and I am able to reach 5Ghz on my 8350 at 1.475v) the only problem I encountered on the BIOS for this one is when I set my LLC to extreme my system gets unstable but if I leave the LLC at its default settings its stable, which is weird LOL.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I had the infamous Rev 3.0 and noticed it was doing the throttling while running prime95 (FX8320 CPU). I had already clipped the UPC code an sent in for the rebate so I could only exchange the board another of the exact same model, but they agreed to give me a different revision.
> 
> I walked out of there with a Rev 4.0.
> 
> I notice it does the same thing.... maybe not as frequently but it does seem to exhibit that same little hiccup...
> 
> 
> 
> The VRM thing does seem to be cooler to the touch so it was probably worth the hassle anyway.


There's no problem in terms of VRM temps on rev 3.0 and 4.0, the problem is within the BIOS, it's over reacting to the temps (maybe they set the Max temp too low that it always hit that ceiling and once the temp goes over the automatic safety features of it kicks in in form of throttling).

They need to fix that on the BIOS side, and who knows when will that be.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> They need to fix that on the BIOS side, and who knows when will that be.


They have to admit theres something wrong first.

Oh wait they did they just made another rev instead and told us all to suck it.


----------



## itomic

REV 3.0 UD-5 DO NOT HAVE THROTTLE ISSUE !! Only UD-3 does. So stop talking rubbish.


----------



## DireLeon2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> They need to fix that on the BIOS side, and who knows when will that be.
> 
> 
> 
> They have to admit theres something wrong first.
> 
> Oh wait they did they just made another rev instead and told us all to suck it.
Click to expand...



I guess I'll go with ASUS again. Love the black theme, but no biggie.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> They have to admit theres something wrong first.
> 
> Oh wait they did they just made another rev instead and told us all to suck it.


Actually, after testing some more the 4.0 seems to throttle just as much as the 3.0.

Just to be clear, what happens is that after a while or maybe not even that long after starting Prime95, CPUz will reflect that the CPU is momentarily dipping down to 2900mhz or some other frequency(multiplier ratio also changes). This occurs maybe once every 30 seconds.

Hopefully when people start complaining about the same issue with the ver 4.0 they will re-investigate the issue and find a solution that fixes the 3.0 as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> There's no problem in terms of VRM temps on rev 3.0 and 4.0, the problem is within the BIOS, it's over reacting to the temps (maybe they set the Max temp too low that it always hit that ceiling and once the temp goes over the automatic safety features of it kicks in in form of throttling).
> 
> They need to fix that on the BIOS side, and who knows when will that be.


Perhaps. One thing, HWMonitor shows all really cool temps on my rig. It also shows that under full load (prime95) the 8320 at [email protected] is using a little less power and running a lot cooler than my i7 3370 also running prime95.

I might believe its running cooler as the i7 is an Alienware x51 which is very compact and has limited cooling (vs closed-looper cooler), but no way is using less power... not with that kind of heat coming off the VRM.

I guess the point I'm getting at is the sensors seem to be highly inaccurate. I hope you are right about it just being a BIOS update because I'm stuck with this board....

The BIOS on the rev4 is a little better as it lets you set absolute voltages and does away with that offset nonsense...


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> There's no problem in terms of VRM temps on rev 3.0 and 4.0, the problem is within the BIOS, it's over reacting to the temps (maybe they set the Max temp too low that it always hit that ceiling and once the temp goes over the automatic safety features of it kicks in in form of throttling).
> 
> They need to fix that on the BIOS side, and who knows when will that be.


You sure about that? If it were just the temps set to low in the BIOS code a simple update would fix that. Instead they released a new revision of the board with bigger heatsinks and "revised VRMs". It would have been exponentially cheaper to up the software temp settings then revise a board and add more expensive hardware.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> The rev3 is the one with the problems. Rev 1.x seem to work better for most, atleast better then rev 3. So far we only have one verified owner here of rev4 and he had even more bad luck with rev 4. I would highly recommend going with m5a99x R2.0 or a sabertooth if you can.


I can verify that the Rev 4.0 is just as bad, if not worse on the throttling than the rev 3.0.

I don't what it takes to be a "verified owner", but I may not own this thing for very long anyway. I'll look into the motherboards you suggested.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> You sure about that? If it were just the temps set to low in the BIOS code a simple update would fix that. Instead they released a new revision of the board with bigger heatsinks and "revised VRMs". It would have been exponentially cheaper to up the software temp settings then revise a board and add more expensive hardware.


they did this to cert the board for the new FX 220watt TDP processors. The vrm thing has to be a bios issue. The rev 3.0 boards have the exact same power setup as the rev 1.1 boards. Yet only the rev 3.0 has issues with the throttling.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> There's no problem in terms of VRM temps on rev 3.0 and 4.0, the problem is within the BIOS, it's over reacting to the temps (maybe they set the Max temp too low that it always hit that ceiling and once the temp goes over the automatic safety features of it kicks in in form of throttling).
> 
> They need to fix that on the BIOS side, and who knows when will that be.

































You really need to go back and scan the last 300 or so pages of this thread.

When the board warps so bad that the I/O ports don't match up with the I/O plate it is running way too hot.

When the case behind the VRMs is too hot to touch it is running way too hot.

Yes, the bios is junk too.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I can verify that the Rev 4.0 is just as bad, if not worse on the throttling than the rev 3.0.
> 
> I don't what it takes to be a "verified owner", but I may not own this thing for very long anyway. I'll look into the motherboards you suggested.


Umm, that's a load of bull dung... My rev 4.0 has 0 throttle issues as long as APM is off. This thing's VRMs run so cool and dont even sweat even at 1.6v and 5.2ghz full load.

I would hate to see false claims kill the rev 4.0 before it gets TRUE reviews.

Now as far as the bios... it is finiky. and has a odd reboot / sleep / off / on thing that is annoying... and Im sure gigbyte will work out the bugs.... But as far as the boards capabilities... its solid


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You really need to go back and scan the last 300 or so pages of this thread.
> 
> When the board warps so bad that the I/O ports don't match up with the I/O plate it is running way too hot.
> 
> When the case behind the VRMs is too hot to touch it is running way too hot.
> 
> Yes, the bios is junk too.


I have read a lot of this thread now and I'm starting to see that maybe there are two distinct problems.

Problem #1 Overheating VRMs. They can't handle overclocking. Obviously there is a serious problem there. We know this problem existed due to the complete redesign with the rev 4.

Problem #2 CPU throttling under 100% load. This even occurs when the CPU is running at its rated speed. This could be an oversensitive BIOS issue.

problem 1 could be producing problem 2, but I do think they are two distinct issues. On the rev 4, I can start prime95, place my hand on the VRM heatsink and wait and the throttling will occur way before my fingers will start to feel burned... I honestly don't think my rev 3.0 was getting that hot either.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Umm, that's a load of bull dung... My rev 4.0 has 0 throttle issues as long as APM is off. This thing's VRMs run so cool and dont even sweat even at 1.6v and 5.2ghz full load.
> 
> I would hate to see false claims kill the rev 4.0 before it gets TRUE reviews.
> 
> Now as far as the bios... it is finiky. and has a odd reboot / sleep / off / on thing that is annoying... and Im sure gigbyte will work out the bugs.... But as far as the boards capabilities... its solid


I turned off the APM and I'm happy to report that the throttling has completely stopped... The only downside is that the CPU previously would idle at 1400 and ramp up to full speed on demand which was nice...

I would agree with your assessments of the board being competently solid, Even the rev 3 seemed to be really stable.

Thanks for the suggestion about the APM.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I turned off the APM and I'm happy to report that the throttling has completely stopped... The only downside is that the CPU previously would idle at 1400 and ramp up to full speed on demand which was nice...
> 
> I would agree with your assessments of the board being competently solid, Even the rev 3 seemed to be really stable.
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion about the APM.


I like cool and quiet too, and I quickly figured out that using voltage offset allows cool and quiet to work. if voltage is manually set it disables cool and quiet and sticks the chip at full voltage and clock all the time.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You really need to go back and scan the last 300 or so pages of this thread.
> 
> When the board warps so bad that the I/O ports don't match up with the I/O plate it is running way too hot.
> 
> When the case behind the VRMs is too hot to touch it is running way too hot.
> 
> Yes, the bios is junk too.


I'm about done pointing out our findings and fixes. Its starting to get old now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I have read a lot of this thread now and I'm starting to see that maybe there are two distinct problems.
> 
> Problem #1 Overheating VRMs. They can't handle overclocking. Obviously there is a serious problem there. We know this problem existed due to the complete redesign with the rev 4.
> 
> Problem #2 CPU throttling under 100% load. This even occurs when the CPU is running at its rated speed. This could be an oversensitive BIOS issue.
> 
> problem 1 could be producing problem 2, but I do think they are two distinct issues. On the rev 4, I can start prime95, place my hand on the VRM heatsink and wait and the throttling will occur way before my fingers will start to feel burned... I honestly don't think my rev 3.0 was getting that hot either.


Well being when I fixed problem #1 and it also solved problem #2 I would take an educated guess in saying that both issues are due to the VRM's overheating, but what would I know.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I like cool and quiet too, and I quickly figured out that using voltage offset allows cool and quiet to work. if voltage is manually set it disables cool and quiet and sticks the chip at full voltage and clock all the time.


I'm real happy i got the ver 4.0. I really did not spend enough time with it before assuming it was doing the exact same thing as the ver3.

Now my 8320 settles down to 1406MHZ at idle and runs at 3716mhz on Prime95 without hiccups. I'm not sure why the Cool'n'Quiet started working again because I was unable to see how to set the voltage by offset. The rev 3 had that method I know. I just have it set to 1.25v which seemed stable for a few hours of prime95. The temp was at 100f when I stopped it...

I'm using a Cooler Master Seidon 120XL cooler that I have retrofitted into a older case. The 120xl was $34 with the rebates. I knew I had to get somethign better than stock. Its not working to full potential because the hole in the case is designed for a 80mm fan. I ordered 120mm fan vent thing from China but I may leave it the way it is for now.

I'm trying to run real quiet on this computer because I'm putting this in my bedroom







I'm not so concerned about overclocking more than the 200+ I have it at now. Really there is no point in it because the video card I'm using is a GT 640, but at least its a GDDR5 model.

What do you use for the HPC setting?

thanks....


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I'm real happy i got the ver 4.0. I really did not spend enough time with it before assuming it was doing the exact same thing as the ver3.
> 
> Now my 8320 settles down to 1406MHZ at idle and runs at 3716mhz on Prime95 without hiccups. I'm not sure why the Cool'n'Quiet started working again because I was unable to see how to set the voltage by offset. The rev 3 had that method I know. I just have it set to 1.25v which seemed stable for a few hours of prime95. The temp was at 100f when I stopped it...
> 
> I'm using a Cooler Master Seidon 120XL cooler that I have retrofitted into a older case. The 120xl was $34 with the rebates. I knew I had to get somethign better than stock. Its not working to full potential because the hole in the case is designed for a 80mm fan. I ordered 120mm fan vent thing from China but I may leave it the way it is for now.
> 
> I'm trying to run real quiet on this computer because I'm putting this in my bedroom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not so concerned about overclocking more than the 200+ I have it at now. Really there is no point in it because the video card I'm using is a GT 640, but at least its a GDDR5 model.
> 
> What do you use for the HPC setting?
> 
> thanks....


Glad you've been able to figure what works for you.

I have HPC on, It does increase performance in heavy tasks... Battlefield 3 is a program I can actually "notice" a difference in. Other than that it helps in just about all benchmarks.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well being when I fixed problem #1 and it also solved problem #2 I would take an educated guess in saying that both issues are due to the VRM's overheating, but what would I know.


I think we all know Rev. 3 throttling was a hardware issue not BIOS. There is a reason they dropped BIOS support and decided to make a whole new board, with the new FX series coming out it made that option even smarter.

Doubt we will ever see a new BIOS on Rev. 3, hell they gave up on the beta BIOS that didn't work.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I couldn't even get into the beta Bios they sent out. It would just freeze. Other members had the same experience with it. That is fine Gigabyte quality!


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> You sure about that? If it were just the temps set to low in the BIOS code a simple update would fix that. Instead they released a new revision of the board with bigger heatsinks and "revised VRMs". It would have been exponentially cheaper to up the software temp settings then revise a board and add more expensive hardware.


I've seen people use updated heatsink on it and even put big ass fans on the VRM side and that it looks like it helped a little bit, maybe its just the BIOS or maybe it's both the motherboard and BIOS? lets all agree to disagree that rev 3.0 and 4.0 for the UD3 atleast is ****ed up and a MUST AVOID boards for now until they publish an official fix.


----------



## DireLeon2010

That's too bad. I was [ ] close to pulling the trigger on one of these. And there's warping? You'd think the 'Ultra Durable' thing would help prevent that. Are they cheaping out now?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> I've seen people use updated heatsink on it and even put big ass fans on the VRM side and that it looks like it helped a little bit, maybe its just the BIOS or maybe it's both the motherboard and BIOS? lets all agree to disagree that rev 3.0 and 4.0 for the UD3 atleast is ****ed up and a MUST AVOID boards for now until they publish an official fix.


It didn't help a little bit, it solved the problem 1 80mm fan on top of the default crappy heat sink will fix throttling.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> I've seen people use updated heatsink on it and even put big ass fans on the VRM side and that it looks like it helped a little bit, maybe its just the BIOS or maybe it's both the motherboard and BIOS? lets all agree to disagree that rev 3.0 and 4.0 for the UD3 atleast is ****ed up and a MUST AVOID boards for now until they publish an official fix.


I am having great luck with my rev 4 UD3. Disabling APM fixed the throttling and the redesigned VRM cooling works great.

I would totally recommend the 4, not the 3.


----------



## masterlink

Hi guys im new to this fourm or any for that matter... Usually i can find my anwser from google but i cant seem to find any people with the same issue as me so here goes... so i newegged a new pc:
AMD fx6300
8gb gskill ripjaws pc3 17000
ga 990 fxa ud3 rev 4.0
msi 7950
APEVIA ATX-CB700W 700W psu
now my issue is when i boot up i cannot access the bios with the 7950 in any slot.
it does post as i get the beep and at first it was consistantly letting me load/boot win 7
but now unless i swap the card for an old gtx250 it wont boot into windows i just see a
quick flash of the gigabyte logo and then black but once i boot windows and shut down
with the other card i can start and boot just fine with my 7950 but i still cant get into the bios.
i have removed everything down to one stick of ram and reseated the cpu/gpu removed
board and tested out of case to no avail. i have a feeling it maybe the powersupply as i
know its not that great of a brand and 2 12v rails. idk what is going on but i did
update to the f2 bios but no change so thank you for all your help!!!


----------



## lsdmax

ga-990fxa-ud3 rev3.0
I have a Phenom 970
Why pay disperses only 1 core unlocked multiplier? All programs show that only the first overclocked kernel ....


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> Well the main difference between UD5 and UD7 is the number of PCI-E slot but other than that, in terms of performance they are the same, so might wanna opt in on a UD5 instead and save yourself a few bucks. but as I have seen from people around, the latest revisions seems to have some throttling issue due to the BIOS being too sensitive about the VRM temps that it throttles it even when its waaaay under its max temp.
> 
> if you can find older revisions like 1.0 or 1.1 of the UD5 that would be good, even UD3 is good coz they all have same power phase and the main difference between the UD series are the number of PCI-E slot at x16/8 speed and as far as I can tell just by looking is the heatsinks on the VRM's. check around the forums I am pretty sure there's some UD3/5 boards out there of an older revision. I can't advertise since its against ToS of this forums but check out anandtech trade section of their forums, there's one there =P can't link it directly coz that's considered advertisement xD


They UD3 and the UD5 have the same 8+2, but they are different quality, only the UD3 AND UD7 have the same power design. At least it was like that for the old rev's.


----------



## masterlink

i fixed my issue it is the 32" emerson hdtv im using. hooked it up to another tv and it works just fine


----------



## LazarusIV

So guys and gals, I took out my mobo today and did some maintenance!

I lapped my H50 and re-seated it with IC Diamond 7 and I also took the heatsinks off my mobo and applied IC Diamond 7 to those as well after a good cleaning. Now it looks like my VRMs are staying cooler (great success!!!) but they still get up to 75*C when I'm running AVX IBT at 4.5GHz and 1.404v. I had also reattached the Scythe Slipstream 120mm fan and pointed it more directly at the VRM / NB heatsink. I could tell the IC Diamond and the fan were helping, it took longer for the VRMs to reach the higher temps so I'm thinking maybe instead of using IC Diamond on the VRMs I should get a 1mm heat pad and use that. I think that it's still not making the best contact so a pad might be more effective... Thoughts?

Also, anyone have a link to a good UD5 overclock guide? I want to check some of my settings with general OC recommendations... Thanks guys and gals!


----------



## bbond007

Have a few questions about ram not really covered in the manual.

The RAM that I have been using UD3 Rev4 is some old RAM that came with my Alienware PC..

One is a nanya pc3-12800 4GB and the other is some other brand 2GB, Anyway, I have always heard that DDR3 really needs to be added in matched pairs but the x51 reported that it was running in dual channel mode. I did suspect that this was optimum so I replaced the ram in that machine. Thanks Dell









I initially used that memory in my UD3 (the 4+2) but again and I was going to try and get another nanya 4GB, but I ran into this really good deal on Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB CL11 PC3-12800 (slow I know but for $45) , so I bought two of those... one caused the computer be unstable, so I had to send it back. At least they look really impressive with the big heat-sinks...

Now I'm running the 8GB + 4GB and I'm unmatched again. Is running unmatched really an issue?

At one point I tried to run 8+8+4+2 and noticed the speed slowed down to 667mhz. Is that normal? some sort of limitation with the memory controller or is that just the result of all the mismatched memory? I guess possibly it could also be that one buggy chip I sent back.

Finally, both of these rams report 761mhz 10/10/10/27/37 & 838mhz 11/11/11/30/41 for the SPD timings. I manually put 10/10/10/27/37 into the BIOS for both chips and I'm running at 800mhz. I ran Prime95 for about 8 hours without issue. Is there a better utility the be using to test the RAM?

MaxMEM2 puts my performance at 8.88 GB/sec which is not too good...

thanks!


----------



## MadGoat

Quick video of what the Rev 4 is doing to annoy the crap out of me and I'm currently working with gigabyte to understand:

Video 1



Video 2


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Quick video of what the Rev 4 is doing to annoy the crap out of me and I'm currently working with gigabyte to understand:
> 
> ]


I'm using almost the same settings as you. stock with this:

LLC- med
HPC - on
APM - off
TURBO - off
18.x multiplier
1.25v
then some memory settings.

not having that issue in your video. I have never seen that behavior. I assume you loaded F2 BIOS?

Another thing I thought of, I did not turn on all that stuff at once... try turning on each item one at a time and then resetting


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> yeap, just modified the mounting brackets for it so that it would fit. works perfect so far 34C under gaming, will test more with overclocking once I am done with all my watercooling stuff =]


Hi, I purchased the Thermalright HR-09U and two 40mm fans. I notice you said "just modified the mounting brackets for it so it would fit". I know I can mount the short or long ends against the mosfets.
If I mount the short end, the heatsink won't be long enough to cover all the mosfets; I can expand the clips with the pushpins, but as mentioned, some mosfets won't be covered by the heatsink. Mounting
the long end down, presents it's own problems; with the clips pressing all the way inward, I can only secure one pushpin... the other is past the hole.

So, my question is, "What modification to the mounting brackets did you make?" And, which end of the HR-09U did you mount against the mosfets...the short or the long end?

Thanks in advance for any help!


----------



## mayford5

I too would like to know. If you could take some pics if that isn't too much to ask.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I'm using almost the same settings as you. stock with this:
> 
> LLC- med
> HPC - on
> APM - off
> TURBO - off
> 18.x multiplier
> 1.25v
> then some memory settings.
> 
> not having that issue in your video. I have never seen that behavior. I assume you loaded F2 BIOS?
> 
> Another thing I thought of, I did not turn on all that stuff at once... try turning on each item one at a time and then resetting


I've done that... No dice... hmmm, interesting... maybe its just this board then... bummer


----------



## mayford5

Wow when did the AMD boards get the 3d bios? My Rev 1.0 has never had that. hmmmm


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I've done that... No dice... hmmm, interesting... maybe its just this board then... bummer


Not just you. My ud5 rev.3.0 does that as well if I change anything from the "Optimized Defaults". I'm certainly interested to see if you can find anything out from Gigabyte.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mayford5*
> 
> Wow when did the AMD boards get the 3d bios? My Rev 1.0 has never had that. hmmmm


honestly the rev1 is an amazing board. I still have mine and if it doesn't work out with this rev 4... its going back in... but anyway the "3d bios" or whatever is more annoying than anything.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Quick video of what the Rev 4 is doing to annoy the crap out of me and I'm currently working with gigabyte to understand:
> 
> Video 1
> 
> 
> 
> Video 2


My Rev 3 does this if I change the CPU multi to anything other than AUTO. Try overclocking using the FSB and leaving the CPU multi on AUTO and see if it does it.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> honestly the rev1 is an amazing board. I still have mine and if it doesn't work out with this rev 4... its going back in... but anyway the "3d bios" or whatever is more annoying than anything.


I agree with that but i admit I'm interested to find out if the digital power phases are any better.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> My Rev 3 does this if I change the CPU multi to anything other than AUTO. Try overclocking using the FSB and leaving the CPU multi on AUTO and see if it does it.


I had this exact issue with my Rev 3.0 GA-990FXA-UD3 board. I set the usual settings for an overclock profile, and I get the same
behavior.... power on, power off, then boot. This occurs when first turning the computer on, or on a restart. I had previously
experimented, and as I recall on my board, the culprit was HPC mode enabled while Core Performance Boost disabled.

BTW, in you first video you mentioned APM in your BIOS settings. Is that new as of Rev 4.0? I don't have that setting on my
Rev 3.0 board.

I've glossed over most of this thread, and swear I've heard others report the power on, power off, then boot issue before
(with I presume Rev 3.0 boards).

You used to have a a Rev 3.0 board, yes? If you did, you didn't experience this behavior?

It is irritating, and I'm guessing may put a little wear and tear on discs.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> BTW, in you first video you mentioned APM in your BIOS settings. Is that new as of Rev 4.0? I don't have that setting on my
> Rev 3.0 board.
> 
> I've glossed over most of this thread, and swear I've heard others report the power on, power off, then boot issue before
> (with I presume Rev 3.0 boards).
> 
> You used to have a a Rev 3.0 board, yes? If you did, you didn't experience this behavior?
> 
> It is irritating, and I'm guessing may put a little wear and tear on discs.


Yes, the boot on/off/on issue on Rev. 3 is a common thing







. The APM setting is not available on Rev. 3 unfortunately, they attempted to add it in a Beta Bios back in April, but it didn't work and as you probably know we haven't seen a new BIOS since.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Hi, I purchased the Thermalright HR-09U and two 40mm fans. I notice you said "just modified the mounting brackets for it so it would fit". I know I can mount the short or long ends against the mosfets.
> If I mount the short end, the heatsink won't be long enough to cover all the mosfets; I can expand the clips with the pushpins, but as mentioned, some mosfets won't be covered by the heatsink. Mounting
> the long end down, presents it's own problems; with the clips pressing all the way inward, I can only secure one pushpin... the other is past the hole.
> 
> So, my question is, "What modification to the mounting brackets did you make?" And, which end of the HR-09U did you mount against the mosfets...the short or the long end?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help!


Different strokes for different folks.









One guy used zip ties. That is at least as professional as anything Gigabyte did with that board.

Two guys cut the mounting brackets and epoxied or glued them on to the long base.

One guy made new metal brackets and bolted them down.

I used no.4 nuts and bolts and a combination of no. 4 and no. 6 washers. I used nylock nuts and nylon no. 6 washers so as to not tighten the bolts too tight and crush the VRMs and also to not short out the board on metal washers. These are all available at your local hardware store for $2.

I've posted these here before but maybe it will be worthwhile to do so again. To those who say it is not a VRM issue, look at that I/O panel.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Different strokes for different folks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One guy used zip ties. That is at least as professional as anything Gigabyte did with that board.
> 
> Two guys cut the mounting brackets and epoxied or glued them on to the long base.
> 
> One guy made new metal brackets and bolted them down.
> 
> I used no.4 nuts and bolts and a combination of no. 4 and no. 6 washers. I used nylock nuts and nylon no. 6 washers so as to not tighten the bolts too tight and crush the VRMs and also to not short out the board on metal washers. These are all available at your local hardware store for $2.
> 
> I've posted these here before but maybe it will be worthwhile to do so again. To those who say it is not a VRM issue, look at that I/O panel.


Thanks for the info!!
While I was waiting to hear back, I wanted to put my computer back together and use it. I decided to zip tie one of the 40mm Fractal Design fans to the top of the default VRM heatsink and re-install it. I have a temperature probe from my fan controller slipped in between the top end of the VRM heatsink fins (the end which says "Ultra Durable"). Anyway, I got it back up and running and decided to run Prime95 Blend and Small FFT tests.

At first I thought the temps were askew (too low), and that maybe the air from the 40mm fan was affecting the temperature probe. But I was monitoring with HWiNFO64, and saw my CPU temp was lower than
prior to adding the 40mm fan. Before, the VRM was reaching 78C about 11 minutes into Prime 95 Small FFT, and CPU temps were about 57 C.

Now with the 40mm fan, running Prime95 Small FFT, about 11 minutes in, VRM temp maxed at 61C, and CPU temps maxed at 53C. I knew if I could cool the VRM a bit, it might affect CPU temps, and it appears it has! I also cool my CPU with a Corsair H80i, where I have its radiator/fans attached to the rear exhaust. Unfortunately, the H80i's innermost fan covers the top of the VRM heatsink, and causes it (I think) to get hotter than if I had a conventional air CPU cooler (hence the aforementioned 78C VRM temp under Prime95 Small FFT).

I tested with HPC disabled, then again with it enabled. Of course, even with LLC = Ultra High and HPC disabled, the CPU was throttling all over the place (like the frequencies competing in an Olympic trampoline contest!). But, with HPC enabled (and the 40mm on the VRM heatsink), I was able to run Prime95 Small FFT for an hour, and not exceed 53C CPU, or 61C VRM on a very stable 4.5GHz OC.

So bottomline, cooling the VRM does make a difference on the Rev 3.0 GA-990FXA-UD3. Know I just have to mull over what approach I'll take in getting the Thermalright HR-09U afixed to the mobo. I'm hoping once I do get it attached, the results will be even better than simpler attaching a 40mm fan to the top of the default VRM heatsink (although that was a nice improvement).

Thanks again for the info!


----------



## hurricane28

Well now i am confused here,

I got some high temps on temperature 3 in HWINFO64 and that is believed to be the VRM temp.

I was on 5ghz with 1.6 volts and i did add an 120mm fan on the GPU blowing on the VRM but it makes no difference in temps not even 1c.

So i am curious to know what the temperature 3 is and the CPU is socket temp right?


----------



## ChrisB17

Hey would any of you recommend the UD7? I am considering it. All I want is like a 4.7oc just STABLE! Stability is key for me. I am wondering if any of you guys have any experience with this board? Thanks.

*Edit* And where do you get a Rev 3.0 board?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> Hey would any of you recommend the UD7? I am considering it. All I want is like a 4.7oc just STABLE! Stability is key for me. I am wondering if any of you guys have any experience with this board? Thanks.
> 
> *Edit* And where do you get a Rev 3.0 board?


YES the UD7 is an excellent board!

Its basically the same board as mine the UD5 only has more PCI-E lanes for more GPU's and has some buttons to reset bios etc. etc.

It can handle more than 4.7 make sure it has LLC and i don't know if the UD7 rev 3.0 has any problems but i do know that some UD3/UD5 has some.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Well now i am confused here,
> 
> I got some high temps on temperature 3 in HWINFO64 and that is believed to be the VRM temp.
> 
> I was on 5ghz with 1.6 volts and i did add an 120mm fan on the GPU blowing on the VRM but it makes no difference in temps not even 1c.
> 
> So i am curious to know what the temperature 3 is and the CPU is socket temp right?


A few months ago, when HWiNFO64 didn't identify what the output was for the ITE IT8728F Super I/O chip, I contacted Martin Malik, the author of HWiNFO64. He has a difficult job keeping up with all the motherboard variations from all the manufacturers, since there doesn't seem to be a standard for what temperatures 1 through 3 represent. On his behalf, I contacted Gigabyte, asking them what those 3 temps represent for a GA-990FXA-UD3. They gave me some short obtuse reply, which I forwarded to Martin... he apparently understood their reply.

As of HWiNFO64 version v4.20.1960, the temperatures are no longer labelled temperatures 1 - 3, but are labelled as follows (Note, I am on a Rev 3.0 GA-990FXA-UD3... there might be a chance earlier revisions of the same board have the sensors set up differently....don't know though).

ITE IT8728F:
Motherboard (temp of main board)
Northbridge (I think this is the CPU-NB, since I have a temperature probe on the regular Northbridge and the temp is much higher)
CPU (this tends to match CPU temp)

There are no VRM temps reported in HWiNFO64, at least not for the GA-990FXA-UD3, revision 3.0.

So, if you have an earlier version of HWiNFO64, you might want to download the latest version and see if that helps.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> A few months ago, when HWiNFO64 didn't identify what the output was for the ITE IT8728F Super I/O chip, I contacted Martin Malik, the author of HWiNFO64. He has a difficult job keeping up with all the motherboard variations from all the manufacturers, since there doesn't seem to be a standard for what temperatures 1 through 3 represent. On his behalf, I contacted Gigabyte, asking them what those 3 temps represent for a GA-990FXA-UD3. They gave me some short obtuse reply, which I forwarded to Martin... he apparently understood their reply.
> 
> As of HWiNFO64 version v4.20.1960, the temperatures are no longer labelled temperatures 1 - 3, but are labelled as follows (Note, I am on a Rev 3.0 GA-990FXA-UD3... there might be a chance earlier revisions of the same board have the sensors set up differently....don't know though).
> 
> ITE IT8728F:
> Motherboard (temp of main board)
> Northbridge (I think this is the CPU-NB, since I have a temperature probe on the regular Northbridge and the temp is much higher)
> CPU (this tends to match CPU temp)
> 
> There are no VRM temps reported in HWiNFO64, at least not for the GA-990FXA-UD3, revision 3.0.
> 
> So, if you have an earlier version of HWiNFO64, you might want to download the latest version and see if that helps.


Aha yes now you noticed i did see difference yes in 4.22-1970

i see:

CPU 0
motherboard
northbridge
CPU

CPU 0 is core temp and CPU must be the socket than i guess.

I was wondering what the VRM temps are because those are important if you are overclocking because mostly on a gigabyte board if temps are higher than 70c they begin to throttle.

Thnx for your reply man


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Aha yes now you noticed i did see difference yes in 4.22-1970
> 
> i see:
> 
> CPU 0
> motherboard
> northbridge
> CPU
> 
> CPU 0 is core temp and CPU must be the socket than i guess.
> 
> I was wondering what the VRM temps are because those are important if you are overclocking because mostly on a gigabyte board if temps are higher than 70c they begin to throttle.
> 
> Thnx for your reply man


Yes, alot of us, at least with the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 revision 3.0 mobo, have found out the hard way....sigh.

To better understand my VRM temps, I purchased a 25$ Thermal IR gun, which has reasonable accuracy. I can just point it at the heatsink and get a general idea of VRM temps.

I additionally have an NZXT Sentry 2 fan controller (also about 25$), which controls up to 5 fans, but also supplies 5 accompanying thermal probes. I slid a probe under the VRM, Northbridge, and Southbridge heatsinks. I can compare the thermal probe temps with those of the Thermal IR gun, and if they are within a margin of error of maybe 1 to 2 C, I feel fairly confident the temperature is reasonably accurate.

If my case is closed up, I just use the readouts of the thermal probes on my fan controller. They are handy to monitor while running Prime95, IBT, and the like.

Hope that helps.


----------



## MadGoat

well, I'm in the midst of convincing gigabyte that there is a serious BIOS flaw with rev 3 and rev 4 boards... If anyone with a rev 3 can help me pinpoint what exactly causes the "double boot" settings wise... I have them backed into a corner now...

I have my rev 3 setup in the wife's computer with my old 1100t... so I need someone with a FX in it to pitch in if they can... I'm hoping I can get them to cut a new BIOS for the rev 3 and 4....

I've also been discussing the Lack of APM on the rev 3 and how it throttles even with my 1100t in it...

Oh, and they did watch my video (I submitted links in the help email). So that is HARD proof for them at this point... if anyone can get a similar video of the rev 3 with a FX doing the same and try to figure out the setting combination... they would have no way to say otherwise.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> well, I'm in the midst of convincing gigabyte that there is a serious BIOS flaw with rev 3 and rev 4 boards... If anyone with a rev 3 can help me pinpoint what exactly causes the "double boot" settings wise... I have them backed into a corner now...
> 
> I have my rev 3 setup in the wife's computer with my old 1100t... so I need someone with a FX in it to pitch in if they can... I'm hoping I can get them to cut a new BIOS for the rev 3 and 4....
> 
> I've also been discussing the Lack of APM on the rev 3 and how it throttles even with my 1100t in it...
> 
> Oh, and they did watch my video (I submitted links in the help email). So that is HARD proof for them at this point... if anyone can get a similar video of the rev 3 with a FX doing the same and try to figure out the setting combination... they would have no way to say otherwise.


If I remember correctly, this happens whenever you change the CPU Multiplier from "AUTO", to anything but auto.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> well, I'm in the midst of convincing gigabyte that there is a serious BIOS flaw with rev 3 and rev 4 boards... If anyone with a rev 3 can help me pinpoint what exactly causes the "double boot" settings wise... I have them backed into a corner now...
> 
> I have my rev 3 setup in the wife's computer with my old 1100t... so I need someone with a FX in it to pitch in if they can... I'm hoping I can get them to cut a new BIOS for the rev 3 and 4....
> 
> I've also been discussing the Lack of APM on the rev 3 and how it throttles even with my 1100t in it...
> 
> Oh, and they did watch my video (I submitted links in the help email). So that is HARD proof for them at this point... if anyone can get a similar video of the rev 3 with a FX doing the same and try to figure out the setting combination... they would have no way to say otherwise.


For my rev 3.0 UD3, as I recall, it happens if I set up for what I call a typical overclock (e.g. - 4.5 GHz):

Disabling: Core Performance Boost,
Cool & Quiet,
C1E Support,
SVM,
Core C6 State

Setting: CPU Clock Ratio = 22.5,
CPU Vcore = +0.025V
Vcore LLC = Ultra High
HPC = Enabled

Now I can't swear just setting those will cause the problem, and I know it doesn't narrow down to 1 or 2 specific settings, but I have had it occur on me many times.

Maybe later tonight I'll try to narrow it down....as far as a video, my cellphone is my video....it migh be sufficient...we'll see.

Good work!

Cheers!


----------



## bbond007

Here is interesting bug/feature I found.

I wanted to go into the BIOS but whenever I did the BIOS would lockup after a few moments.

The curious thing is that Windows 8.1 preview continued to boot and operate as normal...

Anyway, I figured it was that I overclocked the timing on the RAM recently, so I used the CMOS jumper to reset settings...

On the next boot the computer asked me if I wanted to reset the bios and boot, or reset and reboot.

Before I made up my mind, that screen locked up. grrrr....

Anyway, I reset it and this time I was quicker and managed to reset the BIOS.

Anyway, with the default settings I was still locking up in the BIOS.

I figured at this point my motherboard or RAM was failing.

Anyway, then the ONLY thing I did new in the last day was add this USB adapter that allows you to connect Atari, Sega & Commodore joysticks and gamepads....

m_GlOeH4rrfYe0ie5oaskAg.jpg 10k .jpg file


So I guess moral of the story... if your BIOS locks up try unplugging unnecessary USB devices (except KB and mouse)....

On a positive note I redid my undervolting as offset like MadGoat mentioned (with offset). Now I'm retesting stability









Also I found AIDA64 benchmark rates my RAM speed in this computer almost as fast as it rates my i7 3770 (like 22mb vs 23mb). I guess my ram is working full speed just maybe MaxMem2 does not understand AMD.

Welll, that's enough excitement for today


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> For my rev 3.0 UD3, as I recall, it happens if I set up for what I call a typical overclock (e.g. - 4.5 GHz):
> 
> Disabling: Core Performance Boost,
> Cool & Quiet,
> C1E Support,
> SVM,
> Core C6 State
> 
> Setting: CPU Clock Ratio = 22.5,
> CPU Vcore = +0.025V
> Vcore LLC = Ultra High
> HPC = Enabled
> 
> Now I can't swear just setting those will cause the problem, and I know it doesn't narrow down to 1 or 2 specific settings, but I have had it occur on me many times.
> 
> Maybe later tonight I'll try to narrow it down....as far as a video, my cellphone is my video....it migh be sufficient...we'll see.
> 
> Good work!
> 
> Cheers!


I use my sgs3 for video... whatever works....


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> well, I'm in the midst of convincing gigabyte that there is a serious BIOS flaw with rev 3 and rev 4 boards... If anyone with a rev 3 can help me pinpoint what exactly causes the "double boot" settings wise... I have them backed into a corner now...
> 
> I have my rev 3 setup in the wife's computer with my old 1100t... so I need someone with a FX in it to pitch in if they can... I'm hoping I can get them to cut a new BIOS for the rev 3 and 4....
> 
> I've also been discussing the Lack of APM on the rev 3 and how it throttles even with my 1100t in it...
> 
> Oh, and they did watch my video (I submitted links in the help email). So that is HARD proof for them at this point... if anyone can get a similar video of the rev 3 with a FX doing the same and try to figure out the setting combination... they would have no way to say otherwise.


Hellsrage is onto something. "CPU Clock Ratio" has to be set to anything other than "AUTO"; however, my testing shows one other requirement, and that is Core Performance Boost must also be disabled. There are 3 conditions where the "power on - power off - boot" scenario has occurred for me:

1) From BIOS, making changes, then pressing F10 (Save & Exit).
2) From a Windows Restart.
3) Turning on a powered down computer.

I have experienced all 3, but I was only able to consistently reproduce Method 3. The requirement being in BIOS, press F7 (Optimized defaults), then DISABLE "Core Performance Boost", and set the "CPU Clock Ratio" to something other than AUTO. Press F10 (Save & Exit); in my case the computer turns off, then on and reboots. At this point you can hit the DEL key and enter the BIOS, then turn the computer OFF, "or", you can let it boot all the way to the Windows login screen and then do a shutdown.

Now that the power is off, I press the power switch and I get the "offending" behavior; that is power comes on very briefly and turns off for about 2 seconds, then turns on and the system boots.

I couldn't reliable reproduce conditions (1) and (2) above, but have experienced them in the past.

Sorry I couldn't do a video... it's hard for me to take a cellphone video with one hand and do the necessary typing.

Hope this is of some help as addtional evidence you can present to Gigabyte.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Now that the power is off, I press the power switch and I get the "offending" behavior; that is power comes on very briefly and turns off for about 2 seconds, then turns on and the system boots.


Yeah, now that I understand it more, it does do that. Never noticed that before... its very brief.

I thought I saw in the video it going into a BIOS looking screen then resetting. That I have never seen.

Disabling:
Core Performance Boost,
APM

Setting:
CPU Clock Ratio = 18.5
CPU Vcore = -0.0825
Vcore LLC = Medium
HPC = Enabled

cheers


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Hellsrage is onto something. "CPU Clock Ratio" has to be set to anything other than "AUTO"; however, my testing shows one other requirement, and that is Core Performance Boost must also be disabled. There are 3 conditions where the "power on - power off - boot" scenario has occurred for me:
> 
> 1) From BIOS, making changes, then pressing F10 (Save & Exit).
> 2) From a Windows Restart.
> 3) Turning on a powered down computer.
> 
> I have experienced all 3, but I was only able to consistently reproduce Method 3. The requirement being in BIOS, press F7 (Optimized defaults), then DISABLE "Core Performance Boost", and set the "CPU Clock Ratio" to something other than AUTO. Press F10 (Save & Exit); in my case the computer turns off, then on and reboots. At this point you can hit the DEL key and enter the BIOS, then turn the computer OFF, "or", you can let it boot all the way to the Windows login screen and then do a shutdown.
> 
> Now that the power is off, I press the power switch and I get the "offending" behavior; that is power comes on very briefly and turns off for about 2 seconds, then turns on and the system boots.
> 
> I couldn't reliable reproduce conditions (1) and (2) above, but have experienced them in the past.
> 
> Sorry I couldn't do a video... it's hard for me to take a cellphone video with one hand and do the necessary typing.
> 
> Hope this is of some help as addtional evidence you can present to Gigabyte.


awesome, thanks for the help... this is on a rev 3 correct?

I will pass this info on as well thanks again!


----------



## smorch

I'm relatively new to the world of overclocking. My forays to date have been limited to bumping up the CPU Clock Ratio, in conjunctin with disabling (Core Performance Boost, Cool & Quiet, C1E Support, SVM, Core C6 State), and bumping up Vcore as needed, and last but not least enabling HPC, and setting LLC = Ultra High.

With all its foibles, I've been able to OC my Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Revision 3.0 up to 5.0 GHz (not stable by definition...and didn't want to possibly fry the VRM section or warp the motherboard).

My preferred and stable OC is 4.5 GHz; but as mentioned this has been attained without touching BCLK.... just using CPU Clock Ratio. So, in an effort to learn how to use a combination of overclocking techniques, I decided to try setting optimized defaults (F7) in the BIOS, and try bumping up BCLK. I was ONLY able to get up to BLCK = 218. Anything higher and I got a BSOD indicating the message "irql_not_less_or_equal".

I googled around a bit, and found several references that imply it could be due to memory issues. So, I downloaded memtest86 v4.3.2 (I think), and installed it onto a flash drive as a bootable image. I then booted from said flash drive and commenced memtest86....but wouldn't you know, no errors reported, but the tests never run to completion... I get to the middle of test #4 each time, and my system reboots!! I can run just test #4, and in the 3rd pass, my system again reboots!

I have 2 x 4GB PNY Optima memory, which is middle of the road memory, and not really suited for much overclocking as I understand it. When I set BCLK, I manually enter default frequencies and set memory to the next lower multiplier (5.33 I think)...so my memory was effectively underclocked, which should not be a problem as far as I know. I also tested memtest86 with optimized defaults with the same results.

This raises several questions:

1) Should I be able, assuming a fully functioning GA-990FXA-UD3, to use BCLK to OC my mobo. And what is a realistic expectation as to how high I can OC BCLK? Is there something that needs to be done (bump some voltage somewhere), to break my BCLK = 218 barrier without having a BSOD?

2) Regarding memtest86... is something amiss? I get no errors, but my system reboots in the middle of test # 4. Anyone with memtest86 experience and successes, please give feedback!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> awesome, thanks for the help... this is on a rev 3 correct?
> 
> I will pass this info on as well thanks again!


Yup, GA-990FXA-UD3, Rev 3.0 mobo.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> I'm relatively new to the world of overclocking. My forays to date have been limited to bumping up the CPU Clock Ratio, in conjunctin with disabling (Core Performance Boost, Cool & Quiet, C1E Support, SVM, Core C6 State), and bumping up Vcore as needed, and last but not least enabling HPC, and setting LLC = Ultra High.
> 
> With all its foibles, I've been able to OC my Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Revision 3.0 up to 5.0 GHz (not stable by definition...and didn't want to possibly fry the VRM section or warp the motherboard).
> 
> My preferred and stable OC is 4.5 GHz; but as mentioned this has been attained without touching BCLK.... just using CPU Clock Ratio. So, in an effort to learn how to use a combination of overclocking techniques, I decided to try setting optimized defaults (F7) in the BIOS, and try bumping up BCLK. I was ONLY able to get up to BLCK = 218. Anything higher and I got a BSOD indicating the message "irql_not_less_or_equal".
> 
> I googled around a bit, and found several references that imply it could be due to memory issues. So, I downloaded memtest86 v4.3.2 (I think), and installed it onto a flash drive as a bootable image. I then booted from said flash drive and commenced memtest86....but wouldn't you know, no errors reported, but the tests never run to completion... I get to the middle of test #4 each time, and my system reboots!! I can run just test #4, and in the 3rd pass, my system again reboots!
> 
> I have 2 x 4GB PNY Optima memory, which is middle of the road memory, and not really suited for much overclocking as I understand it. When I set BCLK, I manually enter default frequencies and set memory to the next lower multiplier (5.33 I think)...so my memory was effectively underclocked, which should not be a problem as far as I know. I also tested memtest86 with optimized defaults with the same results.
> 
> This raises several questions:
> 
> 1) Should I be able, assuming a fully functioning GA-990FXA-UD3, to use BCLK to OC my mobo. And what is a realistic expectation as to how high I can OC BCLK? Is there something that needs to be done (bump some voltage somewhere), to break my BCLK = 218 barrier without having a BSOD?
> 
> 2) Regarding memtest86... is something amiss? I get no errors, but my system reboots in the middle of test # 4. Anyone with memtest86 experience and successes, please give feedback!
> 
> Thanks in advance!


First off, make sure your using the latest memtest86+ CLICK HERE

(Added: Memtest86+ 5.00 RC1 forum link)

and yes, that is a extreme memory / NB stability issue...

Bump your CPU/NB voltage to ~ 1.225v and keep your memory close to it's rated spec speed using the memory dividers.

This will help your in your OC quest...


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> First off, make sure your using the latest memtest86+ CLICK HERE
> 
> (Added: Memtest86+ 5.00 RC1 forum link)
> 
> and yes, that is a extreme memory / NB stability issue...
> 
> Bump your CPU/NB voltage to ~ 1.225v and keep your memory close to it's rated spec speed using the memory dividers.
> 
> This will help your in your OC quest...


Thanks for the info. Since my last post I did a homer "DOH!", and face palmed myself! I forgot about my lowly Core 2 Duo P8700 laptop. So I stuck in the flashdrive with memtest86 v4.3.2, and rebooted using memtest86. I'm currently on Test #7 with no errors. This makes me think it could be an issue with my memory? (Rather have it be a memory issue and give me an excuse to get 2 x 4GB of Kingston Hyper-X memory...LOL).

Given memtest86 v4..3.2 is running with no errors (or random reboots) on my 3 1/2 year old laptop, do you think I need to try memtest86 5.00 RC1?

I'm writing this on my desktop (the GA-990FXA-UD3, Rev 3.0), so I can't check the BIOS at this moment, but on the FC Bios, I don't recall seeing an explicit CPU/NB Voltage setting. However, if memory serves (no PUN intended...lol), there is a "NB Core", and "NB Voltage"; but I'm not clear which represents the CPU/NB Voltage, if any? Do you have a clue?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> First off, make sure your using the latest memtest86+ CLICK HERE
> 
> (Added: Memtest86+ 5.00 RC1 forum link)
> 
> and yes, that is a extreme memory / NB stability issue...
> 
> Bump your CPU/NB voltage to ~ 1.225v and keep your memory close to it's rated spec speed using the memory dividers.
> 
> This will help your in your OC quest...


My 1st reply to this got snagged for moderation "since I'm new here". Anyways, downloaded memtest86 5.00 RC1, and I'm upto test 10 w/o error. Yay! Thanks!

Regarding CPU/NB voltage adjustment on the GA-990FXA-UD3 revision 3.0, I'm in a bit of a quandry.... there is none explicitly call "CPU/NB Voltage".
However, there is a "NB Core", and an "NB Voltage". Any clue if one is the same as CPU/NB voltage?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> I'm relatively new to the world of overclocking. My forays to date have been limited to bumping up the CPU Clock Ratio, in conjunctin with disabling (Core Performance Boost, Cool & Quiet, C1E Support, SVM, Core C6 State), and bumping up Vcore as needed, and last but not least enabling HPC, and setting LLC = Ultra High.
> 
> With all its foibles, I've been able to OC my Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Revision 3.0 up to 5.0 GHz (not stable by definition...and didn't want to possibly fry the VRM section or warp the motherboard).
> 
> My preferred and stable OC is 4.5 GHz; but as mentioned this has been attained without touching BCLK.... just using CPU Clock Ratio. So, in an effort to learn how to use a combination of overclocking techniques, I decided to try setting optimized defaults (F7) in the BIOS, and try bumping up BCLK. I was ONLY able to get up to BLCK = 218. Anything higher and I got a BSOD indicating the message "irql_not_less_or_equal".
> 
> I googled around a bit, and found several references that imply it could be due to memory issues. So, I downloaded memtest86 v4.3.2 (I think), and installed it onto a flash drive as a bootable image. I then booted from said flash drive and commenced memtest86....but wouldn't you know, no errors reported, but the tests never run to completion... I get to the middle of test #4 each time, and my system reboots!! I can run just test #4, and in the 3rd pass, my system again reboots!
> 
> I have 2 x 4GB PNY Optima memory, which is middle of the road memory, and not really suited for much overclocking as I understand it. When I set BCLK, I manually enter default frequencies and set memory to the next lower multiplier (5.33 I think)...so my memory was effectively underclocked, which should not be a problem as far as I know. I also tested memtest86 with optimized defaults with the same results.
> 
> This raises several questions:
> 
> 1) Should I be able, assuming a fully functioning GA-990FXA-UD3, to use BCLK to OC my mobo. And what is a realistic expectation as to how high I can OC BCLK? Is there something that needs to be done (bump some voltage somewhere), to break my BCLK = 218 barrier without having a BSOD?
> 
> 2) Regarding memtest86... is something amiss? I get no errors, but my system reboots in the middle of test # 4. Anyone with memtest86 experience and successes, please give feedback!
> 
> Thanks in advance!


With combination overclocking (HT ref + multi) on a ud3 rev3, remember this things:

1. HT ref or BCLK is tied up to your memory, HT link, and CPU-NB clocks.
To give you a hint, I'm running a 267 Ht ref. for an OC of 4667. Figure out the multiplier.

For you to be able to successfully do a combo OC, first, take note of your RAM speed and the memory multipliers supported by the motherboard.
Standard on UD3 rev 3 are 4 , 6.66 , 8 , 9.33 , 10.66 which corresponds to 800 , 1333 , 1600 , 1866 , and of course 2133 when HT ref is left at 200.

Now if you touch your HT ref, figure out what RAM speeds you want to run. In my case, 2133 can be achieved by HT refs of 229 X 9.33 or 267 X 8. You get what I mean buddy.









2. HT link and CPU-NB speeds. At stock, they are at 2600 and 2200 respectively. Which corresponds to multiplier of 13 for the HT link and 11 for the CPU NB. AMD adviced to stay close to stock speeds. But you can safely run CPU-NB up to the speeds of the HT link. In my personal experience, the limit lies ~ 2600.

Since you already got an idea what Ht ref are you willing to run your RAMs,







figure out the multiplier needed for your HT link and CPU NB to reach or be close to the limit of 2600 (again In my own experience) you can try shooting for higher that 2600.







. Say 229, 229 X 11 will give you 2519. seems good







? Match that by entering 2200 for both HT LINK and CPU-NB. Try if you can boot..









3. Lastly, major things taken, lets get back to the basics. Doing a COMBO OC is either practiced by people who want to OC their RAMs or just simply hope they could improve on the single core performance of a CPU. And IMO, both can be achieved as I have seen my system reached better scores both on the RAM bandwidth, Latency and better clock to clock performance compared to just using the multiplier OC. But then again, doing so will also mean you have to tweak your RAMs' timings (if you are overclocking it) to make them work. Lastly, make sure your CPU-NB speed does not exceed your HT Link speed. you can clock them the same.









I guess I mentioned them things you need to do. Go figure out the rest.

Enjoy OC'ing mate. These FX's were fun to OC.









One thing I will ask you to do (or try) though. Try an HT ref of 200, CPU-NB of 2400, and an HT LINK of 2600 once you figure out the things mentioned above. I have this thing happening in my set-up that got me NUTS. Just wanna know if that happens to the others.









Give us feedbacks mate..

And don't forget to MEMTEST if you do OC your RAM.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> 2) Regarding memtest86... is something amiss? I get no errors, but my system reboots in the middle of test # 4. Anyone with memtest86 experience and successes, please give feedback!


same result with memtest gets about 18% into test # 4 and the computer shuts down and reboots.

running nanya 4GB + patriot 8GB both PC3-12800

I went back to my stock BIOS profile.Same thing.


----------



## wintord

Hi all. I have just switched over to this board, Yes I know theres better out there but needed one quickly and was best I could get local.

I am having problems getting the sli working with it, when I try to enable it I get a blue screen Nvlddmkm.sys error. tried different NVidia drivers and still get it every time and cant find a solution. Anyone have any idea what causing it.

Thanks


----------



## HowHardCanItBe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> First off, make sure your using the latest memtest86+ CLICK HERE
> 
> (Added: Memtest86+ 5.00 RC1 forum link)
> 
> and yes, that is a extreme memory / NB stability issue...
> 
> Bump your CPU/NB voltage to ~ 1.225v and keep your memory close to it's rated spec speed using the memory dividers.
> 
> This will help your in your OC quest...
> 
> 
> 
> My 1st reply to this got snagged for moderation "since I'm new here". Anyways, downloaded memtest86 5.00 RC1, and I'm upto test 10 w/o error. Yay! Thanks!
> 
> Regarding CPU/NB voltage adjustment on the GA-990FXA-UD3 revision 3.0, I'm in a bit of a quandry.... there is none explicitly call "CPU/NB Voltage".
> However, there is a "NB Core", and an "NB Voltage". Any clue if one is the same as CPU/NB voltage?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's our antispam system kicking in. Should be all good now







. Your posts won't be hidden anymore now. Apologize for the inconvenience caused.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> same result with memtest gets about 18% into test # 4 and the computer shuts down and reboots.
> 
> running nanya 4GB + patriot 8GB both PC3-12800
> 
> I went back to my stock BIOS profile.Same thing.


See post #6937 of this thread. Bottomline, I think memtest v4.3.2 has problems running to completion on a system with an FX processor (not confirmed, but supected).

Anyway the referrenced post is one of mine, where I thank MadGoat for the link to memtest86 version 5.00 RC1. I donloaded the new version, created the bootable flash drive, ran the new memtest86, and this resolved my memtest86 reboot issue. I can run a complete pass of the tests with no errors. Cheers!


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> First off, make sure your using the latest memtest86+ CLICK HERE
> 
> (Added: Memtest86+ 5.00 RC1 forum link)
> 
> and yes, that is a extreme memory / NB stability issue...
> 
> Bump your CPU/NB voltage to ~ 1.225v and keep your memory close to it's rated spec speed using the memory dividers.
> 
> This will help your in your OC quest...


See post #6941 of this thread; my first reply to your message got snagged by the site's antispam filter!! The moderator finally set it straight and I should be able to post timely replies! Anyway, thanks again for pointing me to memtest86 v5.00 RC1. That worked!

Regarding bumping the CPU/NB voltage... on rev 3.0 of GA-990FXA-UD3, there is no explicitly listed CPU/NB voltage....instead they have NB Core, and NB Voltage. I googled a bit, and it looks like NB Core is the same an CPU/NB Voltage.... gave it a +0.025 tweak, setting my BCLK to 220 and it booted. Ran a bunch of benchmarks successfully. Then tried Prime95 Small FFT, and after about 1 minute it crapped out with a BSOD. Hopefully, NB Core is the same as CPU/NB Voltage! Also In that test I had my CPU multi set to 20. I could swear I've read some peeps getting their BCLK (FSB) up to 250 with a CPU multiplier of 20 for 5 Ghz OC.

Also, one of the things I (and others) disdain about the rev 3.0 board FC Bios is the use of offsets everywhere, instead dof being able to type the target value. Also, if NB Core is CPU/NB, it doesn't list the default value anywhere....so even using the offsets you dont know what the final offset value is....not very safe in my opinion.

Regarding you conversations with Gigabyte about a proposed new bios... any chance of getting rid of offsets and being able to enter actual target values?

On that same note, I ran into a quirk, which I deem a bug. I set optimized defaults, then from the Advanced CPU Core Features screen, I set CPU CLock Ratio to 21.5, then disabled Core Performance Boost. I did a double take when I looked at the adjusted frequency, which was correct, but the original CPU Frequency now shows "0.00GHz"!! Then I went to the MIT Current Status Screen, and lo and behold it shows "CPU Ratio Frequency(MHz)" = 46.29!! Finally, I went to the top level screen (when you first enter BIOS), and it showed "CPU Frequency = 4319.00MHz", which IS correct.

I attaching 3 images of my BIOS showing what I described:





Well, the FC Bios of the GA-990FXA-UD3 Revision 3.0 is a bit buggy... the more I use it the more dis-satisfied I become. Incorrect data, having to use offsets rather than actual values, missing settings, mis-labelled settings ("NB Core" instead of "CPU/NB Voltage")...and the list goes on. Feel free to pass the above onto Gigabyte. Hope it helps in some way.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> With combination overclocking (HT ref + multi) on a ud3 rev3, remember this things:
> 
> 1. HT ref or BCLK is tied up to your memory, HT link, and CPU-NB clocks.
> To give you a hint, I'm running a 267 Ht ref. for an OC of 4667. Figure out the multiplier.
> 
> For you to be able to successfully do a combo OC, first, take note of your RAM speed and the memory multipliers supported by the motherboard.
> Standard on UD3 rev 3 are 4 , 6.66 , 8 , 9.33 , 10.66 which corresponds to 800 , 1333 , 1600 , 1866 , and of course 2133 when HT ref is left at 200.
> 
> Now if you touch your HT ref, figure out what RAM speeds you want to run. In my case, 2133 can be achieved by HT refs of 229 X 9.33 or 267 X 8. You get what I mean buddy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. HT link and CPU-NB speeds. At stock, they are at 2600 and 2200 respectively. Which corresponds to multiplier of 13 for the HT link and 11 for the CPU NB. AMD adviced to stay close to stock speeds. But you can safely run CPU-NB up to the speeds of the HT link. In my personal experience, the limit lies ~ 2600.
> 
> Since you already got an idea what Ht ref are you willing to run your RAMs,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> figure out the multiplier needed for your HT link and CPU NB to reach or be close to the limit of 2600 (again In my own experience) you can try shooting for higher that 2600.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Say 229, 229 X 11 will give you 2519. seems good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? Match that by entering 2200 for both HT LINK and CPU-NB. Try if you can boot..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Lastly, major things taken, lets get back to the basics. Doing a COMBO OC is either practiced by people who want to OC their RAMs or just simply hope they could improve on the single core performance of a CPU. And IMO, both can be achieved as I have seen my system reached better scores both on the RAM bandwidth, Latency and better clock to clock performance compared to just using the multiplier OC. But then again, doing so will also mean you have to tweak your RAMs' timings (if you are overclocking it) to make them work. Lastly, make sure your CPU-NB speed does not exceed your HT Link speed. you can clock them the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I mentioned them things you need to do. Go figure out the rest.
> 
> Enjoy OC'ing mate. These FX's were fun to OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I will ask you to do (or try) though. Try an HT ref of 200, CPU-NB of 2400, and an HT LINK of 2600 once you figure out the things mentioned above. I have this thing happening in my set-up that got me NUTS. Just wanna know if that happens to the others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Give us feedbacks mate..
> 
> And don't forget to MEMTEST if you do OC your RAM.


Thanks so much for this wealth of info!! I'll try what you suggest, and will give feedback. However, I may not get to all of it today (lol)!


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> See post #6937 of this thread. Bottomline, I think memtest v4.3.2 has proble


ya, the newer version works better









getting some errors, so maybe goosing those memory timings was a bad idea. I don't think I'll buy patriot memory again, not even at $45.

Thx









Thanks.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wintord*
> 
> Hi all. I have just switched over to this board, Yes I know theres better out there but needed one quickly and was best I could get local.
> 
> I am having problems getting the sli working with it, when I try to enable it I get a blue screen Nvlddmkm.sys error. tried different NVidia drivers and still get it every time and cant find a solution. Anyone have any idea what causing it.
> 
> Thanks


what kind of psu/gpu's are you using?


----------



## ionstorm66

Well my UD7 couldn't handle pushing 1.6v worth of vcore to my Thuban. Even with the EK block I burnt out on of the VRM phases.



Now to decided if I should get another UD7 or goto a different manufacture. Is there any major changes in the UD7 revisions? I have a v1.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ionstorm66*
> 
> Well my UD7 couldn't handle pushing 1.6v worth of vcore to my Thuban. Even with the EK block I burnt out on of the VRM phases.
> 
> 
> 
> Now to decided if I should get another UD7 or goto a different manufacture. Is there any major changes in the UD7 revisions? I have a v1.


yikes thats a sad sight. If you do you might want to add some water cooling to those VRM







. Looks like vrm cooling problems aren't limited to just the ud3/ud5 anymore







. You would think it would be able to handle it.


----------



## ionstorm66

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> yikes thats a sad sight. If you do you might want to add some water cooling to those VRM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Looks like vrm cooling problems aren't limited to just the ud3/ud5 anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You would think it would be able to handle it.


That was under EKs full cover block, with chilled water. My NB was running at 10°C. Amazingly the board still runs, but I don't think the VRMs are getting good contact, because the burnt phase sticks up.


----------



## dmfree88

thats nuts how the hell did it blow up then


----------



## bbond007

I'm noticing some strange stuff with memtest and my 8320 and goofy:

So anyway I have all these onball SIMMS unfortunately.

Hyundai 2GB PC3-12800 CL11
Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB CL11 (the other is RMA)
Nanya 4GB PC3-12800 CL11

Noticed when overlocking (Stock speed seemed to work.) past stock speed I was getting memory errors with memtest when running Nanya 4GB + Patriot 8GB.

Some errors at 18.5x more at 19.5 was a disaster but at 20x I got no errors, but I later noticed in windows that my memory was running in single channel mode and AIDA64 showed bandwidth was indeed cut in half. The other benchmarks remained the same which suggests that other benchmarks are broken









if I dropped back to 19.5 the memory would dual channel again. but not pass memory check.

so I thought this was an issue with unmatched SIMMS. I borrowed the 2x 8GB Kingston PnP CL9 ram out of my other machine and tried it in the UD3 and at 20x (4018mhz) and it did run in dual channel mode, but also failed first pass in memtest.

But the interesting this is I just was able to do 4 passes at 20x with Hyundai 2GB + Nanya 4GB. Did not touch the settings just swapped the RAM.

I think I may try to return the Viper Xtreme, because I just ordered another Nanya with identical part number from ebay(used). I wish i would have just done that in the first place, and I did look, but unfortunately at that time people were asking too much...

Or perhaps the Viper Xtreme will run stable along side an identical one(weeks from now) and I can run all 4, but I suspect then the speed drops down to 667mhz due to running 4 chips, but then maybe I'd be better off running at that speed with faster CAS anyway.

As for now i'll just run Hyundai + Nanya and enjoy 4018ghz stable. at that speed my max temp is 115F before the fan seems to go to the next level then it goes cooler.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I'm noticing some strange stuff with memtest and my 8320 and goofy:
> 
> So anyway I have all these onball SIMMS unfortunately.
> 
> Hyundai 2GB PC3-12800 CL11
> Patriot Viper Xtreme 8GB CL11 (the other is RMA)
> Nanya 4GB PC3-12800 CL11
> 
> Noticed when overlocking (Stock speed seemed to work.) past stock speed I was getting memory errors with memtest when running Nanya 4GB + Patriot 8GB.
> 
> Some errors at 18.5x more at 19.5 was a disaster but at 20x I got no errors, but I later noticed in windows that my memory was running in single channel mode and AIDA64 showed bandwidth was indeed cut in half. The other benchmarks remained the same which suggests that other benchmarks are broken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if I dropped back to 19.5 the memory would dual channel again. but not pass memory check.
> 
> so I thought this was an issue with unmatched SIMMS. I borrowed the 2x 8GB Kingston PnP CL9 ram out of my other machine and tried it in the UD3 and at 20x (4018mhz) and it did run in dual channel mode, but also failed first pass in memtest.
> 
> But the interesting this is I just was able to do 4 passes at 20x with Hyundai 2GB + Nanya 4GB. Did not touch the settings just swapped the RAM.
> 
> I think I may try to return the Viper Xtreme, because I just ordered another Nanya with identical part number from ebay(used). I wish i would have just done that in the first place, and I did look, but unfortunately at that time people were asking too much...
> 
> Or perhaps the Viper Xtreme will run stable along side an identical one(weeks from now) and I can run all 4, but I suspect then the speed drops down to 667mhz due to running 4 chips, but then maybe I'd be better off running at that speed with faster CAS anyway.
> 
> As for now i'll just run Hyundai + Nanya and enjoy 4018ghz stable. at that speed my max temp is 115F before the fan seems to go to the next level then it goes cooler.


Well I'm new to overclocking myself. But, I've heard a number of times, if you want to operate in dual channel mode for example, you should buy matched memory sticks (i.e. - 2 sticks sold in one package). That implies, that even with 2 sticks of the same brand and model memory, but each stick bought separately, you have higher odds of having problems with overclocking, than if you were to have a matched pair for example.

Introduce mixing brands to the equation, and you're probably taking more chance at having issues while overclocking.

So, my two cents, its hit or miss.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Introduce mixing brands to the equation, and you're probably taking more chance at having issues while overclocking.
> 
> So, my two cents, its hit or miss.


Yeah. I agree but the the mismatched brand / size works great while the matched set for my x51 (3x 8GB Kingston PnP CL9) my x51 failed first pass....

I guess i need to run memcheck on the x51 and verify that memory does not have errors







never done that.

also the Hyundai + Nanya combo(which works full speed) is what my x51 came with.... maybe dell knows something I don't









I'm kind of screwed now on the matched set thing. I guess I should have sent both RAMs back to Tiger









Hey, this computer is basically built from the old alienware x51 parts.... HD, video card, ram

I even have this old Alienware (dual 2700+ processor AMD) huge tower but its pretty ugly. I was thinking of putting it in that case.

Too bad its that ugly - and excessively large.

But it does have dual power supply which i'm sure is useful for something.

whatever it is, and however it turns out, its a lot better(in most ways) than the early 2009 mac mini its going to replace









I run one 1024x1280(tall) monitor and another 1920x1080 and that machine really starts dogging out when streaming video. GT 640 GDDR5 is MUCH better then 9400m


----------



## wintord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> what kind of psu/gpu's are you using?[/quote
> 
> 1200 watt corsair gold and 480gtx sli.


----------



## wintord

Seems I found my issue with enabling the Sli on my system, I turned off the HPET in bios and it works fine can anyone tell me what this actually does and is it important? Thanks.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Hi, I purchased the Thermalright HR-09U and two 40mm fans. I notice you said "just modified the mounting brackets for it so it would fit". I know I can mount the short or long ends against the mosfets.
> If I mount the short end, the heatsink won't be long enough to cover all the mosfets; I can expand the clips with the pushpins, but as mentioned, some mosfets won't be covered by the heatsink. Mounting
> the long end down, presents it's own problems; with the clips pressing all the way inward, I can only secure one pushpin... the other is past the hole.
> 
> So, my question is, "What modification to the mounting brackets did you make?" And, which end of the HR-09U did you mount against the mosfets...the short or the long end?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help!


I got a UD3 rev 1.1 just to put that out,

I used the long end to cover every VRM, and the long end is the exact length of the stock heatsink, the modification I did was first remove the part of the mounting bracket where you can slide it left or right, you can undo the screw and remove it from the main bracket that mounts on the heatsink (remove the push pin first), and then once those are out I cut them in half, one half would be used (whichever half is flat), I did this on both of the mounting brackets that came with the heatsink.

Then used each of the half that I cut and glued it over the part that is making contact on the heatsink not under it. before permanently gluing it onto the heatsink I put a tiny dab of glue to the heatsink and placed the part where the pushpin would be and basically its a matter of measuring where to put these parts so that it would match the hole of the motherboard, using tiny dab of glue makes it easy to remove them if you placed it wrong then once you get it right just mark that spot however you wanna mark it.

when permanently gluing the mounting on the part where the pushpins would be make sure to sand down the contact point and make them rough, if they are smooth surface they won't stick.

I wish I can explain this better or have pictures of how it looks but I got no good camera yet, but I am about to buy a camera tomorrow so lets see if that can take good clearer pictures to show you how it looks mounted on the motherboard.
reason why I did this is coz on my revision of my motherboard, when I use the mounting bracket the way it is it won't slide in coz its too wide and its hitting the Chokes on the right side and one capacitor on the left.


----------



## itomic

What is may safe for MOSFET. I did now little bit of torture test at 4.6Ghz with 1.55V and stress it with P95 Large FFT (max heat). I have infrared thermometer. Hottest i saw on MOSFET was about 80C !


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> I got a UD3 rev 1.1 just to put that out,
> 
> I used the long end to cover every VRM, and the long end is the exact length of the stock heatsink, the modification I did was first remove the part of the mounting bracket where you can slide it left or right, you can undo the screw and remove it from the main bracket that mounts on the heatsink (remove the push pin first), and then once those are out I cut them in half, one half would be used (whichever half is flat), I did this on both of the mounting brackets that came with the heatsink.
> 
> Then used each of the half that I cut and glued it over the part that is making contact on the heatsink not under it. before permanently gluing it onto the heatsink I put a tiny dab of glue to the heatsink and placed the part where the pushpin would be and basically its a matter of measuring where to put these parts so that it would match the hole of the motherboard, using tiny dab of glue makes it easy to remove them if you placed it wrong then once you get it right just mark that spot however you wanna mark it.
> 
> when permanently gluing the mounting on the part where the pushpins would be make sure to sand down the contact point and make them rough, if they are smooth surface they won't stick.
> 
> I wish I can explain this better or have pictures of how it looks but I got no good camera yet, but I am about to buy a camera tomorrow so lets see if that can take good clearer pictures to show you how it looks mounted on the motherboard.
> reason why I did this is coz on my revision of my motherboard, when I use the mounting bracket the way it is it won't slide in coz its too wide and its hitting the Chokes on the right side and one capacitor on the left.


Thanks for your response!









Yeah pictures would help, but I think I get what you're implying as to the mods. If I have more questions about your method, I'll post them, maybe with a picture or two with pointers on what I think you mean in your mod instructions. Thanks again for you input!









BTW, my GA-990FXA-UD3 is a revision 3.0, and I have that same problem, with brackets on, the HR-09U won't slide in between the chokes and capacitors. Fits perfect w/o the brackets, LOL. But if you're so inclined to get your new camera and have time to take some pics, it would be appreciated. I guess I'm not completely clear on what part of the bracket is getting cut in half, and which part is being glued, and type glue used (but then again, could be that I didn't go to bed last night...lol).

Is the final mod working better than the stock heatsink? Thanks again!


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Thanks for your response!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah pictures would help, but I think I get what you're implying as to the mods. If I have more questions about your method, I'll post them, maybe with a picture or two with pointers on what I think you mean in your mod instructions. Thanks again for you input!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, my GA-990FXA-UD3 is a revision 3.0, and I have that same problem, with brackets on, the HR-09U won't slide in between the chokes and capacitors. Fits perfect w/o the brackets, LOL. But if you're so inclined to get your new camera and have time to take some pics, it would be appreciated. I guess I'm not completely clear on what part of the bracket is getting cut in half, and which part is being glued, and type glue used (but then again, could be that I didn't go to bed last night...lol).
> 
> Is the final mod working better than the stock heatsink? Thanks again!


I used a glue that has the most pressure resistance from home depot, this one I used can withstand 200lbs of pressure and its only 5bucks LOL.

Anyways here's a pic of how it looks like, it looks ugly really up close as the pics coz I really went overboard on the glue amount to be sure it sticks there, and now that I've taken pictures up close I never really seen those dust (off to walmart to get some air cans! xD)


----------



## Mega Man

hey guys figured i would pop in and say high, killed my CVFz ( took a bath from my loop when re built during leak testing, musta hit the bat volts, will be getting it replaced as i bought a warranty for it... ) will be blocking this board as well debating if this will go into my wifes rig or mine. sure ill be askin gyou guys alot of questions.

things i like
native support for quad fire

things i hate so far
bios ( spoiled by asus )
lack of temp sensors, voltage sensors,
pain to oc

1&3 should go away the longer i have it
sure to be asking alot of questions.

edit may update sig later. need to see if this board is better then the CVFz


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hey guys figured i would pop in and say high, killed my CVFz ( took a bath from my loop when re built during leak testing, musta hit the bat volts, will be getting it replaced as i bought a warranty for it... ) will be blocking this board as well debating if this will go into my wifes rig or mine. sure ill be askin gyou guys alot of questions.
> 
> things i like
> native support for quad fire
> 
> things i hate so far
> bios ( spoiled by asus )
> lack of temp sensors, voltage sensors,
> pain to oc
> 
> 1&3 should go away the longer i have it
> sure to be asking alot of questions.
> 
> edit may update sig later. need to see if this board is better then the CVFz


I've just tried Asus Saberooth and in my experience both got their own pain in the butt in terms of OCing, Asus's BIOS ain't so perfect either I've seen little hitches here and there.

Lack of temp sensor on UD series board? I got a UD3 board and my board actually have sensor on MB (Mosfet), NB and CPU (of course) while the sabertooth don't have sensors for NB (can't remember about the CVFZ).

Only thing about the UD series the sensors seems to vary by revisions, some boards TMP1 is CPU and for some its the MOSFET, it gets confusing.

Only good thing about OCing on Asus is its "auto" feature is better compared to Gigabyte, you can just set the clocks and leave the voltage upto the board LOL, it does kinda over volt it but still not as bad as Gigabyte board would do.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> I've just tried Asus Saberooth and in my experience both got their own pain in the butt in terms of OCing, Asus's BIOS ain't so perfect either I've seen little hitches here and there.
> 
> Lack of temp sensor on UD series board? I got a UD3 board and my board actually have sensor on MB (Mosfet), NB and CPU (of course) while the sabertooth don't have sensors for NB (can't remember about the CVFZ).
> 
> Only thing about the UD series the sensors seems to vary by revisions, some boards TMP1 is CPU and for some its the MOSFET, it gets confusing.
> 
> Only good thing about OCing on Asus is its "auto" feature is better compared to Gigabyte, you can just set the clocks and leave the voltage upto the board LOL, it does kinda over volt it but still not as bad as Gigabyte board would do.


hate to tell you buy the saberkitty has 8 thermal sensors


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hate to tell you buy the saberkitty has 8 thermal sensors


But when it comes down to which one you can view, it only shows 2 to me. tried different programs to see if its more than that but nope.


----------



## Mega Man

hwinfo64 will show all or hwinfo32 if you run 32bit.... but slap to you if you do !


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> hwinfo64 will show all or hwinfo32 if you run 32bit.... but slap to you if you do !


I used HWinfo, HWmonitor (turned on the hidden sensors) Blackbox, SpeedFan, Open HWMonitor and so on, none of them showed the extra 6 temp sensor you mention.. only the CPU and the NB was showing.


----------



## LordOfTots

Well, I got the ga-990fxa-ud7, and I got a small question. One of my pci brackets were knocked off in an accident. It still runs fine, I'm just paranoid that its unhealthy for the board in some wierd way. Anyone have experience with this?


----------



## JPHL

I have a ud3 rev. 1.0. We recently updated our home router to wireless ac and got a usb3.0 wireless ac adapter. now this works fine when plugged in to the usb3.0 port on the front of my machine fed from the motherboard but I discovered when trying to plug it into the usb 3.0 ports on the back of the motherboard that they do not work. I've confirmed that the ports supply power but neither usb2.0 or usb3.0 devices on those ports are recognized by the operating system. device manager has nothing visibly amiss. anyone know what my problem is. would rather not have to rma the board. had it for 2 years and have trouble believing I never checked those ports in the past but have never really needed anything besides the front one so can't be sure if I have ever used them or not


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JPHL*
> 
> I have a ud3 rev. 1.0. We recently updated our home router to wireless ac and got a usb3.0 wireless ac adapter. now this works fine when plugged in to the usb3.0 port on the front of my machine fed from the motherboard but I discovered when trying to plug it into the usb 3.0 ports on the back of the motherboard that they do not work. I've confirmed that the ports supply power but neither usb2.0 or usb3.0 devices on those ports are recognized by the operating system. device manager has nothing visibly amiss. anyone know what my problem is. would rather not have to rma the board. had it for 2 years and have trouble believing I never checked those ports in the past but have never really needed anything besides the front one so can't be sure if I have ever used them or not


Sad to say but if your front USB 3.0 (that is plugged from the motherboard pins to the 3.0 slots of your case I believe?) is working and the ones on the back I/O don't then its probably those slots don't work at all, does the audio outputs work on the back? if so, maybe try re-installing the 3.0 drivers? but the 2.0 should work w/o installing updated drivers.. so chances are those ports that don't work are deffective.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordOfTots*
> 
> Well, I got the ga-990fxa-ud7, and I got a small question. One of my pci brackets were knocked off in an accident. It still runs fine, I'm just paranoid that its unhealthy for the board in some wierd way. Anyone have experience with this?


can you maybe upload a pic of what exactly has happened? is it just the thing that locks it in place in the PCI-E slot? if so then no, there's really no effect in terms of performance besides locking it in place there.


----------



## LordOfTots

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> Sad to say but if your front USB 3.0 (that is plugged from the motherboard pins to the 3.0 slots of your case I believe?) is working and the ones on the back I/O don't then its probably those slots don't work at all, does the audio outputs work on the back? if so, maybe try re-installing the 3.0 drivers? but the 2.0 should work w/o installing updated drivers.. so chances are those ports that don't work are deffective.
> can you maybe upload a pic of what exactly has happened? is it just the thing that locks it in place in the PCI-E slot? if so then no, there's really no effect in terms of performance besides locking it in place there.


I mean the whole slot basically is gone. i dont need it, im just wondering if this will affect anything else


----------



## JPHL

well already talked to asus support and they helped me setup an rma gonna try putting my bios to default settings first though before actually sending it in.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> First off, make sure your using the latest memtest86+ CLICK HERE
> 
> (Added: Memtest86+ 5.00 RC1 forum link)
> 
> and yes, that is a extreme memory / NB stability issue...
> 
> Bump your CPU/NB voltage to ~ 1.225v and keep your memory close to it's rated spec speed using the memory dividers.
> 
> This will help your in your OC quest...


Just a FTI, that version consistently gives me errors at 0x274f0 and 0x274f8 (test5) on 3 different sets of RAM... even with stock BIOS settings


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> I used HWinfo, HWmonitor (turned on the hidden sensors) Blackbox, SpeedFan, Open HWMonitor and so on, none of them showed the extra 6 temp sensor you mention.. only the CPU and the NB was showing.


http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1381712/a/912712/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/sort/display_order
click original to see it
i think you need to select low level IO acess iirc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JPHL*
> 
> well already talked to asus support and they helped me setup an rma gonna try putting my bios to default settings first though before actually sending it in.


you mean gigabyte?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordOfTots*
> 
> I mean the whole slot basically is gone. i dont need it, im just wondering if this will affect anything else


as long as nothing is shorted you will be fine. it will be like you are not using it


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> I used a glue that has the most pressure resistance from home depot, this one I used can withstand 200lbs of pressure and its only 5bucks LOL.
> 
> Anyways here's a pic of how it looks like, it looks ugly really up close as the pics coz I really went overboard on the glue amount to be sure it sticks there, and now that I've taken pictures up close I never really seen those dust (off to walmart to get some air cans! xD)


Thanks for the update. In this thread I've seen 3 basic approaches to mounting the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink on the GA-990FXA-UD3 mobo (revision 3.0 in my case):

1) zip tie (no brackets),
2) bolts, washers, nuts (no brackets),
3) modified brackets (your approach).

I purchased the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink, along with 2 Fractal Design 40mm fans, with the intention of mounting them to the heatsink, and in turn mount the whole assemply in place of the stock VRM heatsink. But the brackets threw a wrench in those plans, until I heard about the 3 mods mentioned above. In the meantime, while trying to decide on which mod I would use, I removed the stock heatsink, attached one of the 40mm fans to it, and reattached it to the mobo. The complication is I recently installed a Corsair H80i liquid CPU cooler, and the only place I could mount my Cooler Master Haf 912 case was to the rear fan exhaust port. It has a thick radiator and 2 fans in a push pull config, hence it sticks far into the case, and the innermost fan sits right above the stock heatsink. This added to the excessive heat in the VRM area, by reducing airflow. I had run Prime95 Small FFT tests after installing the H80i, and monitored temps with a thermal probe stuck between the fins at the top end of the stock heatsink. When it reached 78 C, I stopped the tests. Adding the single 40mm fan to the stock heatsink lowered the temps during Prime95 Small FFT to about 63C. See below for pics of stock heatsink with fan.





I decided to try the simplest mod (zip tie), since I wasn't able to get to the hardware store right away. Only problem is, I had a big bag of zip ties, that fit the mount holes, but each was only 4 inches long. So I first zip tied both 40mm fans onto the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink, then daisy-chained 3 zip-ties to mount the HR-09U/fans to the mobo. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a thermal probe set in a place on the heatsink, since the whole heatsink was exposed to the attached fans and would affect the readings. See below for pics of the Thermalright HR-09U with attached fans (both unmounted and mounted with zip ties).





Even though I have no thermal probe on the new VRM heatsink, I can see a benefit in terms of CPU temps. Prior to any modifications (and with the Corsair H80i cooler installed), running Prime95 Small FFT yielded temperatures over 60 C. After adding the single 40mm fan on the stock heatsink, running Prime95 Small FFT yielded temps around 56 C. And after installing the Thermalright HR-09U with 2 40mm fans, Prime95 Small FFT maxed at 46.3 C. So a big difference. The bottomline, a cooler VRM equates to a cooler CPU.

I passed the Prime95 Blend and Small FFT tests with a 4.5 GHz overclock (using just CPU Clock Ratio), and never exceed 50C. I use HWiNFO64 to monitor temps, freqs, volts, etc. Unfortunately, even though the addition of the HR-09U with 2 fans improves things, one of the deficiencies of the GA-990FXA-UD3 still rears its ugly head.... vdroop and consequently throttling. It's not as prevalent as before installing the HR-09U, but it still happens. I did monitor with HWiNFO64, while running various gaming benchmarks, the futuremark suit of tests, passmark performance test 8.0, cinebench, etc.... The only vdroop/throttling occurs while stablility testing with either Prime95 or IBT. So, I suppose that's the upside... that normal usage doesn't exhibit vdroop/throttling, and stability testing passes (although it does exhibit vdroop/throttling).

Prior to the installation of the HR-09U, I did briefly OC at higher freqs...such as 4.9 Ghz and even 5.0 GHz....but I never tried stability testing for fear of melting the VRM circuitry! I could probably OC higher than my current 4.5 GHz, but I'm not sure I should bother, since I'm convinced the UD3 does indeed have a weak VRM circuit. But at least I feel more confident in my mobo with the HR-09/fans installed.


----------



## miklkit




----------



## bbond007

Just a little FYI. Might save someone someone some stress.

I seem to have run into a bug in memtest86 (mt500b1) and was going crazy thinking I had bad hardware because I kept getting this same error intermittently - usually after a few successful passes - even at stock speeds...

I tried I read on that forum a little and it seems to be a known problem. I got it with several sets of RAM. Its always the same address.


----------



## JPHL

Yes I do mean gigabyte. I have an Asus router I'm also busy rmaing as it drops the 5ghz band a couple times a day for a few minutes


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Thanks for the update. In this thread I've seen 3 basic approaches to mounting the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink on the GA-990FXA-UD3 mobo (revision 3.0 in my case):
> 
> 1) zip tie (no brackets),
> 2) bolts, washers, nuts (no brackets),
> 3) modified brackets (your approach).
> 
> I purchased the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink, along with 2 Fractal Design 40mm fans, with the intention of mounting them to the heatsink, and in turn mount the whole assemply in place of the stock VRM heatsink. But the brackets threw a wrench in those plans, until I heard about the 3 mods mentioned above. In the meantime, while trying to decide on which mod I would use, I removed the stock heatsink, attached one of the 40mm fans to it, and reattached it to the mobo. The complication is I recently installed a Corsair H80i liquid CPU cooler, and the only place I could mount my Cooler Master Haf 912 case was to the rear fan exhaust port. It has a thick radiator and 2 fans in a push pull config, hence it sticks far into the case, and the innermost fan sits right above the stock heatsink. This added to the excessive heat in the VRM area, by reducing airflow. I had run Prime95 Small FFT tests after installing the H80i, and monitored temps with a thermal probe stuck between the fins at the top end of the stock heatsink. When it reached 78 C, I stopped the tests. Adding the single 40mm fan to the stock heatsink lowered the temps during Prime95 Small FFT to about 63C. See below for pics of stock heatsink with fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to try the simplest mod (zip tie), since I wasn't able to get to the hardware store right away. Only problem is, I had a big bag of zip ties, that fit the mount holes, but each was only 4 inches long. So I first zip tied both 40mm fans onto the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink, then daisy-chained 3 zip-ties to mount the HR-09U/fans to the mobo. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a thermal probe set in a place on the heatsink, since the whole heatsink was exposed to the attached fans and would affect the readings. See below for pics of the Thermalright HR-09U with attached fans (both unmounted and mounted with zip ties).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though I have no thermal probe on the new VRM heatsink, I can see a benefit in terms of CPU temps. Prior to any modifications (and with the Corsair H80i cooler installed), running Prime95 Small FFT yielded temperatures over 60 C. After adding the single 40mm fan on the stock heatsink, running Prime95 Small FFT yielded temps around 56 C. And after installing the Thermalright HR-09U with 2 40mm fans, Prime95 Small FFT maxed at 46.3 C. So a big difference. The bottomline, a cooler VRM equates to a cooler CPU.
> 
> I passed the Prime95 Blend and Small FFT tests with a 4.5 GHz overclock (using just CPU Clock Ratio), and never exceed 50C. I use HWiNFO64 to monitor temps, freqs, volts, etc. Unfortunately, even though the addition of the HR-09U with 2 fans improves things, one of the deficiencies of the GA-990FXA-UD3 still rears its ugly head.... vdroop and consequently throttling. It's not as prevalent as before installing the HR-09U, but it still happens. I did monitor with HWiNFO64, while running various gaming benchmarks, the futuremark suit of tests, passmark performance test 8.0, cinebench, etc.... The only vdroop/throttling occurs while stablility testing with either Prime95 or IBT. So, I suppose that's the upside... that normal usage doesn't exhibit vdroop/throttling, and stability testing passes (although it does exhibit vdroop/throttling).
> 
> Prior to the installation of the HR-09U, I did briefly OC at higher freqs...such as 4.9 Ghz and even 5.0 GHz....but I never tried stability testing for fear of melting the VRM circuitry! I could probably OC higher than my current 4.5 GHz, but I'm not sure I should bother, since I'm convinced the UD3 does indeed have a weak VRM circuit. But at least I feel more confident in my mobo with the HR-09/fans installed.


46C is still pretty high compared to what I am seeing with mine, I got my daily clocks at 4.8Ghz and the max I've seen the MOSFET temp goes is 39C, I guess that revision of the board really has some design problem that causes the VRM temps to go really high.

I just can't go to 5Ghz daily clocks coz of temps, voltage wise I am ok but the temps get so high at 1.5v its just too much (1.575 after LLC kicks in, LLC set to extreme) now at 4.8Ghz CPU socket temp barely gets over 62C and core temp 49C. altho I am using watercooling.

I plan on removing the fans that I have on it, turning them off only took 3C difference and at 42C its still acceptable specially considering my daily clocks on my 8350 is 4.8Ghz which is above the average daily overclock of users of this CPU.

And I'm thinking of putting one of the 40mm fans on the NB heatsink instead. altho even the NB barely goes over 40C LOL.

Ambient temp of 28C if you're curious what's the ambient temp.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Thanks for the update. In this thread I've seen 3 basic approaches to mounting the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink on the GA-990FXA-UD3 mobo (revision 3.0 in my case):
> 
> 1) zip tie (no brackets),
> 2) bolts, washers, nuts (no brackets),
> 3) modified brackets (your approach).
> 
> I purchased the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink, along with 2 Fractal Design 40mm fans, with the intention of mounting them to the heatsink, and in turn mount the whole assemply in place of the stock VRM heatsink. But the brackets threw a wrench in those plans, until I heard about the 3 mods mentioned above. In the meantime, while trying to decide on which mod I would use, I removed the stock heatsink, attached one of the 40mm fans to it, and reattached it to the mobo. The complication is I recently installed a Corsair H80i liquid CPU cooler, and the only place I could mount my Cooler Master Haf 912 case was to the rear fan exhaust port. It has a thick radiator and 2 fans in a push pull config, hence it sticks far into the case, and the innermost fan sits right above the stock heatsink. This added to the excessive heat in the VRM area, by reducing airflow. I had run Prime95 Small FFT tests after installing the H80i, and monitored temps with a thermal probe stuck between the fins at the top end of the stock heatsink. When it reached 78 C, I stopped the tests. Adding the single 40mm fan to the stock heatsink lowered the temps during Prime95 Small FFT to about 63C. See below for pics of stock heatsink with fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to try the simplest mod (zip tie), since I wasn't able to get to the hardware store right away. Only problem is, I had a big bag of zip ties, that fit the mount holes, but each was only 4 inches long. So I first zip tied both 40mm fans onto the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink, then daisy-chained 3 zip-ties to mount the HR-09U/fans to the mobo. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a thermal probe set in a place on the heatsink, since the whole heatsink was exposed to the attached fans and would affect the readings. See below for pics of the Thermalright HR-09U with attached fans (both unmounted and mounted with zip ties).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though I have no thermal probe on the new VRM heatsink, I can see a benefit in terms of CPU temps. Prior to any modifications (and with the Corsair H80i cooler installed), running Prime95 Small FFT yielded temperatures over 60 C. After adding the single 40mm fan on the stock heatsink, running Prime95 Small FFT yielded temps around 56 C. And after installing the Thermalright HR-09U with 2 40mm fans, Prime95 Small FFT maxed at 46.3 C. So a big difference. The bottomline, a cooler VRM equates to a cooler CPU.
> 
> I passed the Prime95 Blend and Small FFT tests with a 4.5 GHz overclock (using just CPU Clock Ratio), and never exceed 50C. I use HWiNFO64 to monitor temps, freqs, volts, etc. Unfortunately, even though the addition of the HR-09U with 2 fans improves things, one of the deficiencies of the GA-990FXA-UD3 still rears its ugly head.... vdroop and consequently throttling. It's not as prevalent as before installing the HR-09U, but it still happens. I did monitor with HWiNFO64, while running various gaming benchmarks, the futuremark suit of tests, passmark performance test 8.0, cinebench, etc.... The only vdroop/throttling occurs while stablility testing with either Prime95 or IBT. So, I suppose that's the upside... that normal usage doesn't exhibit vdroop/throttling, and stability testing passes (although it does exhibit vdroop/throttling).
> 
> Prior to the installation of the HR-09U, I did briefly OC at higher freqs...such as 4.9 Ghz and even 5.0 GHz....but I never tried stability testing for fear of melting the VRM circuitry! I could probably OC higher than my current 4.5 GHz, but I'm not sure I should bother, since I'm convinced the UD3 does indeed have a weak VRM circuit. But at least I feel more confident in my mobo with the HR-09/fans installed.


That's hefty improvement on your part. Very neat installation of the HR-09 too..

I too can attest to your statement that a cooler VRM would yield you a cooler CPU. I have this thing installed on my VRMs. Guess what it is. lol 



Yes, it's a custom made VRM heatsink. Basically the stock CPU cooler that came with my 8320 cut in half, desoldered and resoldered back to that shape. Got a couple of heat pipes and basically larger than the HR-09 (these things were very hard to find in my country so I decided to MOD my stock cooler







) I haven't installed a fan on it though.

Before installing it, I can get any stability on 4.8. Not just because of the temps but also because I felt like pushing those VRMs to their limits. On stock VRM sinks, I'm hitting the 70's at 4.8 @ 1.5Volts right away. Lowering the V's is not an option as it does cause me lock-ups. So I'm stuck at 4.67 with temps hitting 60s

Now, at 4.8 and 1.44Volts, I can run Aida64 Stability without issues with temps up to the lower 60's. I know AIDA can't give you the stress like Prime but on a daily usage, AIDA prove my stability guaranteed. But my point is, IMO If your VRMs are cooler, you can still find stability on lower voltages as the VRMs can still give the CPU enough juice in terms of current.









In short, I'm now running my 4.8 at identical temps to what I'm getting at 4.67. With the same voltages.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> 46C is still pretty high compared to what I am seeing with mine, I got my daily clocks at 4.8Ghz and the max I've seen the MOSFET temp goes is 39C, I guess that revision of the board really has some design problem that causes the VRM temps to go really high.
> 
> I just can't go to 5Ghz daily clocks coz of temps, voltage wise I am ok but the temps get so high at 1.5v its just too much (1.575 after LLC kicks in, LLC set to extreme) now at 4.8Ghz CPU socket temp barely gets over 62C and core temp 49C. altho I am using watercooling.
> 
> I plan on removing the fans that I have on it, turning them off only took 3C difference and at 42C its still acceptable specially considering my daily clocks on my 8350 is 4.8Ghz which is above the average daily overclock of users of this CPU.
> 
> And I'm thinking of putting one of the 40mm fans on the NB heatsink instead. altho even the NB barely goes over 40C LOL.
> 
> Ambient temp of 28C if you're curious what's the ambient temp.


Are you also watercooling your NB?

Cause if you do then your argument about your NB temps can be true. At stock volage and frequency, the NB is way hotter than what your CPU can get on air. Touch it to believe. No software IMO reports the Exact Temps on UD3's NB. It's just way too hot to touch I'm guessing it past the 70's. Or maybe you still have the stock thermal tape on it. I have removed mine in exchange for a PK-1 and screwed it firmly back to the Mobo so contact is guaranteed. That NB sink is toasting. Tough I prefer it that the sinks get hot so assure Thermal conductance is good. My stock CPU fan is screwed to that NB now.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Thanks for the update. In this thread I've seen 3 basic approaches to mounting the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink on the GA-990FXA-UD3 mobo (revision 3.0 in my case):
> 
> 1) zip tie (no brackets),
> 2) bolts, washers, nuts (no brackets),
> 3) modified brackets (your approach).
> 
> I purchased the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink, along with 2 Fractal Design 40mm fans, with the intention of mounting them to the heatsink, and in turn mount the whole assemply in place of the stock VRM heatsink. But the brackets threw a wrench in those plans, until I heard about the 3 mods mentioned above. In the meantime, while trying to decide on which mod I would use, I removed the stock heatsink, attached one of the 40mm fans to it, and reattached it to the mobo. The complication is I recently installed a Corsair H80i liquid CPU cooler, and the only place I could mount my Cooler Master Haf 912 case was to the rear fan exhaust port. It has a thick radiator and 2 fans in a push pull config, hence it sticks far into the case, and the innermost fan sits right above the stock heatsink. This added to the excessive heat in the VRM area, by reducing airflow. I had run Prime95 Small FFT tests after installing the H80i, and monitored temps with a thermal probe stuck between the fins at the top end of the stock heatsink. When it reached 78 C, I stopped the tests. Adding the single 40mm fan to the stock heatsink lowered the temps during Prime95 Small FFT to about 63C. See below for pics of stock heatsink with fan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I decided to try the simplest mod (zip tie), since I wasn't able to get to the hardware store right away. Only problem is, I had a big bag of zip ties, that fit the mount holes, but each was only 4 inches long. So I first zip tied both 40mm fans onto the Thermalright HR-09U heatsink, then daisy-chained 3 zip-ties to mount the HR-09U/fans to the mobo. Unfortunately, I couldn't get a thermal probe set in a place on the heatsink, since the whole heatsink was exposed to the attached fans and would affect the readings. See below for pics of the Thermalright HR-09U with attached fans (both unmounted and mounted with zip ties).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even though I have no thermal probe on the new VRM heatsink, I can see a benefit in terms of CPU temps. Prior to any modifications (and with the Corsair H80i cooler installed), running Prime95 Small FFT yielded temperatures over 60 C. After adding the single 40mm fan on the stock heatsink, running Prime95 Small FFT yielded temps around 56 C. And after installing the Thermalright HR-09U with 2 40mm fans, Prime95 Small FFT maxed at 46.3 C. So a big difference. The bottomline, a cooler VRM equates to a cooler CPU.
> 
> I passed the Prime95 Blend and Small FFT tests with a 4.5 GHz overclock (using just CPU Clock Ratio), and never exceed 50C. I use HWiNFO64 to monitor temps, freqs, volts, etc. Unfortunately, even though the addition of the HR-09U with 2 fans improves things, one of the deficiencies of the GA-990FXA-UD3 still rears its ugly head.... vdroop and consequently throttling. It's not as prevalent as before installing the HR-09U, but it still happens. I did monitor with HWiNFO64, while running various gaming benchmarks, the futuremark suit of tests, passmark performance test 8.0, cinebench, etc.... The only vdroop/throttling occurs while stablility testing with either Prime95 or IBT. So, I suppose that's the upside... that normal usage doesn't exhibit vdroop/throttling, and stability testing passes (although it does exhibit vdroop/throttling).
> 
> Prior to the installation of the HR-09U, I did briefly OC at higher freqs...such as 4.9 Ghz and even 5.0 GHz....but I never tried stability testing for fear of melting the VRM circuitry! I could probably OC higher than my current 4.5 GHz, but I'm not sure I should bother, since I'm convinced the UD3 does indeed have a weak VRM circuit. But at least I feel more confident in my mobo with the HR-09/fans installed.


That's hefty improvement on your part. Very neat installation of the HR-09 too..

I too can attest to your statement that a cooler VRM would yield you a cooler CPU. I have this thing installed on my VRMs. Guess what it is. lol 



Yes, it's a custom made VRM heatsink. Basically the stock CPU cooler that came with my 8320 cut in half, desoldered and resoldered back to that shape. Got a couple of heat pipes and basically larger than the HR-09 (these things were very hard to find in my country so I decided to MOD my stock cooler







) I haven't installed a fan on it though.

Before installing it, I can't get any stability on 4.8. Not just because of the temps but also because I felt like pushing those VRMs to their limits. On stock VRM sinks, I'm hitting the 70's at 4.8 @ 1.5Volts right away. Lowering the V's is not an option as it does cause me lock-ups. So I'm stuck at 4.67 with temps hitting 60s

Now, at 4.8 and 1.44Volts, I can run Aida64 Stability without issues with temps up to the lower 60's. I know AIDA can't give you the stress like Prime but on a daily usage, AIDA prove my stability guaranteed. But my point is, IMO If your VRMs are cooler, you can still find stability on lower voltages as the VRMs can still give the CPU enough juice in terms of current.









In short, I'm now running my 4.8 at identical temps to what I'm getting at 4.67. With the same voltages.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> 46C is still pretty high compared to what I am seeing with mine, I got my daily clocks at 4.8Ghz and the max I've seen the MOSFET temp goes is 39C, I guess that revision of the board really has some design problem that causes the VRM temps to go really high.
> 
> I just can't go to 5Ghz daily clocks coz of temps, voltage wise I am ok but the temps get so high at 1.5v its just too much (1.575 after LLC kicks in, LLC set to extreme) now at 4.8Ghz CPU socket temp barely gets over 62C and core temp 49C. altho I am using watercooling.
> 
> I plan on removing the fans that I have on it, turning them off only took 3C difference and at 42C its still acceptable specially considering my daily clocks on my 8350 is 4.8Ghz which is above the average daily overclock of users of this CPU.
> 
> And I'm thinking of putting one of the 40mm fans on the NB heatsink instead. altho even the NB barely goes over 40C LOL.
> 
> Ambient temp of 28C if you're curious what's the ambient temp.


Are you also watercooling your NB?

Cause if you do then your argument about your NB temps can be true. At stock volage and frequency, the NB is way hotter than what your CPU can get on air. Touch it to believe. No software IMO reports the Exact Temps on UD3's NB. It's just way too hot to touch I'm guessing it past the 70's. Or maybe you still have the stock thermal tape on it. I have removed mine in exchange for a PK-1 and screwed it firmly back to the Mobo so contact is guaranteed. That NB sink is toasting. Tough I prefer it that the sinks get hot to assure Thermal conductance is good. My stock CPU fan is screwed to that NB now.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> 46C is still pretty high compared to what I am seeing with mine, I got my daily clocks at 4.8Ghz and the max I've seen the MOSFET temp goes is 39C, I guess that revision of the board really has some design problem that causes the VRM temps to go really high.
> 
> I just can't go to 5Ghz daily clocks coz of temps, voltage wise I am ok but the temps get so high at 1.5v its just too much (1.575 after LLC kicks in, LLC set to extreme) now at 4.8Ghz CPU socket temp barely gets over 62C and core temp 49C. altho I am using watercooling.
> 
> I plan on removing the fans that I have on it, turning them off only took 3C difference and at 42C its still acceptable specially considering my daily clocks on my 8350 is 4.8Ghz which is above the average daily overclock of users of this CPU.
> 
> And I'm thinking of putting one of the 40mm fans on the NB heatsink instead. altho even the NB barely goes over 40C LOL.
> 
> Ambient temp of 28C if you're curious what's the ambient temp.


If I recall you said your board revision is 1.1, whereas mine is 3.0, and yes, from what I've read rev 3.0 boards seem to have the worst VRM performance. However, given my previous temps before installing the HR-09U with fans, I'm satisfied with the improvement.


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That's hefty improvement on your part. Very neat installation of the HR-09 too..
> 
> I too can attest to your statement that a cooler VRM would yield you a cooler CPU. I have this thing installed on my VRMs. Guess what it is. lol
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it's a custom made VRM heatsink. Basically the stock CPU cooler that came with my 8320 cut in half, desoldered and resoldered back to that shape. Got a couple of heat pipes and basically larger than the HR-09 (these things were very hard to find in my country so I decided to MOD my stock cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I haven't installed a fan on it though.
> 
> Before installing it, I can't get any stability on 4.8. Not just because of the temps but also because I felt like pushing those VRMs to their limits. On stock VRM sinks, I'm hitting the 70's at 4.8 @ 1.5Volts right away. Lowering the V's is not an option as it does cause me lock-ups. So I'm stuck at 4.67 with temps hitting 60s
> 
> Now, at 4.8 and 1.44Volts, I can run Aida64 Stability without issues with temps up to the lower 60's. I know AIDA can't give you the stress like Prime but on a daily usage, AIDA prove my stability guaranteed. But my point is, IMO If your VRMs are cooler, you can still find stability on lower voltages as the VRMs can still give the CPU enough juice in terms of current.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In short, I'm now running my 4.8 at identical temps to what I'm getting at 4.67. With the same voltages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you also watercooling your NB?
> 
> Cause if you do then your argument about your NB temps can be true. At stock volage and frequency, the NB is way hotter than what your CPU can get on air. Touch it to believe. No software IMO reports the Exact Temps on UD3's NB. It's just way too hot to touch I'm guessing it past the 70's. Or maybe you still have the stock thermal tape on it. I have removed mine in exchange for a PK-1 and screwed it firmly back to the Mobo so contact is guaranteed. That NB sink is toasting. Tough I prefer it that the sinks get hot to assure Thermal conductance is good. My stock CPU fan is screwed to that NB now.


If you hadn't explained what it was, I might have guessed some sort of pipe for smoking illegal substances...LOL. Or, perhaps part of a miniature French horn, or something...LOL. But seriously, good effort on the construction!









I concur with your assessment regarding VRM temps. BTW, the temps you're quoting are VRM temps vs. CPU temps, yes?

I may have missed it, but I assume you're running a GA-990FXA-UD3? If so, what revision?

Good job.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> If you hadn't explained what it was, I might have guessed some sort of pipe for smoking illegal substances...LOL. Or, perhaps part of a miniature French horn, or something...LOL. But seriously, good effort on the construction!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I concur with your assessment regarding VRM temps. BTW, the temps you're quoting are VRM temps vs. CPU temps, yes?
> 
> I may have missed it, but I assume you're running a GA-990FXA-UD3? If so, what revision?
> 
> Good job.


Well, to tell you the truth, I have not taken readings on the VRMs yet. All I know, is that they run cooler now and my CPU temps stay right where they were at 4.67 when running at 4.8 now. Low 60's on temps at 4.8GHz with voltages from 1.440-1.5 depending on what this sh**ty







LLC at Ultra setting brings them to. Core Voltage is at 1.440 at the bios. At load they go up to 1.5 at Ultra LLC and there i HIT 64 degrees. No throttles yet. These are the temps I'm getting before changing that VRM sink at 4.67GHz with 1.404-1.488 volts. So pretty much a job well done for me.









I'm thinking of making another one. A more planned one as that was my first try and It didnt really fit well. And attach a fan on it to further be more effective.









Yes, it's a UD3 rev 3. The damned revision. LOL.

But at 4.8 for an 8320 on AIR with Silver Arrow, I can't say this board is that BAD.








Just a little short of my expectation. I really wanna hit that 5GHz!! mark







sad to say a budget rig can't take me there.

Planning on another rig though. Considering an UD7 and an 8350. But I'm not sure if the UD7 rev 3 is as good as rev 1.1. This is the only revision I can find in my part of the world. Any suggestion or comments on the UD7 rev 3??

EDIT: The temps I mentioned were my CPU temps. But the VRMs on stock cooler were hot to touch even at the back of the board. Not as hot as my NB but hot enough to be noticed.







Now, the VRM temps when doing a stability test is not that alarming like before. Pretty much based on observation rather than measured by any software. But the gains are noticeable.

I'm installing HWInfo later to confirm my VRM temps.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well, to tell you the truth, I have not taken readings on the VRMs yet. All I know, is that they run cooler now and my CPU temps stay right where they were at 4.67 when running at 4.8 now. Low 60's on temps at 4.8GHz with voltages from 1.440-1.5 depending on what this sh**ty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LLC at Ultra setting brings them to. Core Voltage is at 1.440 at the bios. At load they go up to 1.5 at Ultra LLC and there i HIT 64 degrees. No throttles yet. These are the temps I'm getting before changing that VRM sink at 4.67GHz with 1.404-1.488 volts. So pretty much a job well done for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking of making another one. A more planned one as that was my first try and It didnt really fit well. And attach a fan on it to further be more effective.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it's a UD3 rev 3. The damned revision. LOL.
> 
> But at 4.8 for an 8320 on AIR with Silver Arrow, I can't say this board is that BAD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a little short of my expectation. I really wanna hit that 5GHz!! mark
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sad to say a budget rig can't take me there.
> 
> Planning on another rig though. Considering an UD7 and an 8350. But I'm not sure if the UD7 rev 3 is as good as rev 1.1. This is the only revision I can find in my part of the world. Any suggestion or comments on the UD7 rev 3??
> 
> EDIT: The temps I mentioned were my CPU temps. But the VRMs on stock cooler were hot to touch even at the back of the board. Not as hot as my NB but hot enough to be noticed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, the VRM temps when doing a stability test is not that alarming like before. Pretty much based on observation rather than measured by any software. But the gains are noticeable.
> 
> I'm installing HWInfo later to confirm my VRM temps.


If you have plans for a new build i would highly recommend the UD5 rev 1.1 if you can get your hands on it.

Its basically the same board as the UD7 only it has some need features like, button to reset bios posting lamps to see what errors you have during the post and it has more PCI-E lanes.

The rest is the same like power phase etc. and i like the aesthetics of the UD5 more than the UD7.

I would also highly recommend to use HWINFO64 for monitor temps


----------



## bbond007

This is some real creative work you guys are doing to keep those VRM temps under control. This is not as creative but someone might find it interesting for $10.

Anyway, a little concerned about the temps of my own VRM, and to address the issue that my case had an empty 5.25 bay and I had no cover for on this old case...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200963632696

I put the heat sensor on the heat pipe and wrapped it with some aluminum tape. I don't know kind of covering is on that heat-sink but it seems like teflon as far as getting things to stick to it









this front panel digital LCD came all the way from China to make it to my mailbox. I go to the mailbox to get my package. Mailbox was hit by a car and all of the mail was taken back to the post-office where my item was lost temporarily. The item arrived in under 2 weeks.

the LED is kind of bright, but fortunately my case has a nice tinted plexiglass door. It kind of works out that it is so bright so I can read it with the door closed. cheers!




oops i initially uploaded the pic before i installed the sensor







fixed


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> This is some real creative work you guys are doing to keep those VRM temps under control. This is not as creative but someone might find it interesting for $10.
> 
> Anyway, a little concerned about the temps of my own VRM, and to address the issue that my case had an empty 5.25 bay and I had no cover for on this old case...
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/200963632696
> 
> I put the heat sensor on the heat pipe and wrapped it with some aluminum tape. I don't know kind of covering is on that heat-sink but it seems like teflon as far as getting things to stick to it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this front panel digital LCD came all the way from China to make it to my mailbox. I go to the mailbox to get my package. Mailbox was hit by a car and all of the mail was taken back to the post-office where my item was lost temporarily. The item arrived in under 2 weeks.
> 
> the LED is kind of bright, but fortunately my case has a nice tinted plexiglass door. It kind of works out that it is so bright so I can read it with the door closed. cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oops i initially uploaded the pic before i installed the sensor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> fixed


What model mobo do you have? Is it a GA-990FXA-UD5, or perhaps a GA-990FXA-UD3, revision 4.0? Your temp sensor is connected to the shared heatpipe between the VRM and Northbridge, so I wonder if the temperature reading is an average between the VRM and Northbridge temps. My GA-990FXA-UD3, revision 3.0 has no shared heatpipe, so I put a separate temperature probe on each heatsink. Under load, my VRM gets much hotter than the Northbridge.

Nice edition to your system though.


----------



## Mega Man

does anyone here use the 990fxa-ud7 for qudafire/sli ? if so how did you oc your ht ? i can do it on both my sabertooth and CVFz without issue i can even bench at 3900 however i can not raise it above stock on the ud7 rev3.0

anyone have any advice


----------



## itomic

Does anyone else have a problems with this FCb BIOS for UD-5 REV 3.0 ?? I had lots off problems and i had to rool back FB BIOS.


----------



## Mega Man

finally i have a score near what my CVFz was putting out

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7168387


----------



## hurricane28

HT gives only better scores in SLI/crosfire right?

Because few days ago i was reading on the internet that they said that its better to leave HT stock and only CPUNB gives some points.

Can you add some volts to the HT like me in the bios? i have set mine to 1.3volts and i can get higher than 3k on HT only CPUNB puts to much heat to my CPU.


----------



## Mega Man

you are correct but i am running 4x7970

on my CVFz my chip can easily bench at 3900ht ( did not have time to stabilize it was gonna do it after i redid my loop.... then i killed the board via a leak while leak testing. , i have the replacement on hand though

also have not been able to boot @ 2400 with my gskill will have to play with them see what i can do ... this mobo may not be able to handle it though


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you are correct but i am running 4x7970
> 
> on my CVFz my chip can easily bench at 3900ht ( did not have time to stabilize it was gonna do it after i redid my loop.... then i killed the board via a leak while leak testing. , i have the replacement on hand though
> 
> also have not been able to boot @ 2400 with my gskill will have to play with them see what i can do ... this mobo may not be able to handle it though


Yes i was reading HT has to do with bandwith and with one GPU there is plenty.

How can you kill that board at leak testing? i mean don't you use deionized water? or some towels? i am sure i would









And why do you think that board can't handle 2400? i mean we have basically the same board only you have rev 3.0

Did you ask Red? he has an review of this board if i am correct.

Well good luck mate


----------



## Mega Man

red has not been on for several days

yea even for 2 you have enough 3+ you need to oc it

i think the water came in contact with the bios battery or a trace from it. i really dont know how i killed it . i waited 2 weeks after it got wet too


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> red has not been on for several days
> 
> yea even for 2 you have enough 3+ you need to oc it
> 
> i think the water came in contact with the bios battery or a trace from it. i really dont know how i killed it . i waited 2 weeks after it got wet too


That's a bummer man.

Well like i said we have basically the same board so maybe you can apply the same setting like me.

what are your other settings if i may ask? Did you install a full motherboard water block? So yes you don't need to worry about temps.

If you OC the HT link it like some volts on it especially at 3 or over 3K, i set mine to 1.3 volts.

I am sure your board can handle the 2400 RAM too


----------



## Mega Man

i will once i buy it and get it in hand hoping to get my res back from fq ( they are modding it ) and install qdcs on all of them


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i will once i buy it and get it in hand hoping to get my res back from fq ( they are modding it ) and install qdcs on all of them


Good luck man









Post some benchmarks and stuff i am curious what you can get with that board.


----------



## MadGoat

OMG, gigabyte tech support is the worst.. they seriously don't care that their products are built with defects that can be fixed with BIOS updates.

They now want me to switch processors in my rig with a phenom II to see if the problem still exists! Does that matter!? It exists with a processor that is on the supported list! Shouldn't that be all that matters... Let alone talking in circles with these idiots has me more than aggravated.

Wow, honestly at this point... I don't blame anyone for never purchasing a gigabyte product ever again.

Just as a comparison, I had a k9n2 Plat motherboard from MSI. And after years of faithful service and 4 different systems I decided to dedicate it to server duty. After having it all set up, I found a tiny glitch with the on board fan controller of the board, and found that it wouldn't control 3 of the 4 fan outputs when a specific mode was selected. I contacted MSI support and within 2 days they had a BIOS cooked up for me and fixed the problem! Furthermore they THANKED me for bringing this problem to their attention! This board had not been supported for years! and they helped me like that!

So yeah, gigabyte... You lost me as a customer.


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Homer Simpson Moment.

Well, I'm back. VRM heatsink change, added fan (slim, and just barely room for that) and the cool master 212 upgrade on the CPU's rig. Got maybe 2 degrees C.
Not stress tested yet but base "running temps" typical apps running, dropped from 34-45C to about 32-43. Here's the rub however. Anyone else have issues with
Windows "sleep" and/or hibernate not working right? Mine worked as far as Windows was concerned. But NOT the UD3. I leave the HW monitor on all the time so
I'm constantly watching how whatever app is effecting the temps. Normal putzing around and never goes over 45c. Twice I've let it sleep/hibernate and both times
the HW monitor reported that temps had spiked at 60C+ first time it was I think 64 and the last time that magic number, 68. The question is HOW LONG was it at
that temp? It's almost at if the windows is shutting down the FANS but the CPU is left still "on". As soon as you tap the space bar it fires right up and by the time
you can see the HW monitor the temp it back to 34C-ish so theres no telling how long it was at 68C. Obviously all sleep and hibernate has been disabled for now.

Question I seen in some bios's the option to have the machine, power off (like pull the plug off), based on a specific temp limit. I don't see it on mine. Only "warnings".
I'd like to be able to have it self-kill-switch above say 60C. Is there some SW I can add that will enable this?
ALSO on a related note, has GB put out a new-non-beta BIOS since FC back in FEB?

Homer Simpson moment. Due certian idiosyncracies I was very leary of pulling my board all the way out to do the backplate for the CM-212. Seems like something
always goes wrong. So after getting it all back together, I hit the power button and nothing. The blue streak of profanity that resulted, would get my entire FAMILY
banned from this site. I was SO hot. Then I remembered, during an electrical storm a few nights ago, I had unplugged the powerstrip, it's not a "ckt-breaker" type strip
and there's no UPS. When I saw the plug on the floor next to the outlet, what else could I say, but "DOHH!


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

opps


----------



## NoNewEgg4Me

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LordOfTots*
> 
> I mean the whole slot basically is gone. i dont need it, im just wondering if this will affect anything else


The fact that this part could be basically ripped out and NOT effect the board posting is amazing.
I'd say problem-potential from this type of accident come only 2 flavors. None and total no-post.
Since you're still cookin' I say you're probably good. Amazing.
I messed up one of my backplate USB ports, busted the plastic tooth clean off. Obviously that
port's toast but what's interesting is the USB port right next to the busted one is also messed up.
If you try using that 2nd USB port the board is lights out! No Post. Power button is dead. Needless
to say I steer a wide berth around those two ports. I'm probably very lucky I discovered this, trying
to power up after moving the macine, and not by jacking in to that USB port while the PC was
running.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> OMG, gigabyte tech support is the worst.. they seriously don't care that their products are built with defects that can be fixed with BIOS updates.
> 
> They now want me to switch processors in my rig with a phenom II to see if the problem still exists! Does that matter!? It exists with a processor that is on the supported list! Shouldn't that be all that matters... Let alone talking in circles with these idiots has me more than aggravated.
> 
> Wow, honestly at this point... I don't blame anyone for never purchasing a gigabyte product ever again.
> 
> Just as a comparison, I had a k9n2 Plat motherboard from MSI. And after years of faithful service and 4 different systems I decided to dedicate it to server duty. After having it all set up, I found a tiny glitch with the on board fan controller of the board, and found that it wouldn't control 3 of the 4 fan outputs when a specific mode was selected. I contacted MSI support and within 2 days they had a BIOS cooked up for me and fixed the problem! Furthermore they THANKED me for bringing this problem to their attention! This board had not been supported for years! and they helped me like that!
> 
> So yeah, gigabyte... You lost me as a customer.


I know the feeling, guess much hasn't changed over at support since I last talked to them.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I know the feeling, guess much hasn't changed over at support since I last talked to them.


yeah, I'm not normally one to complain but this is absolutely terrible customer service. it wouldn't be so bad if it was just rude service or untimely... but they are not backing a product when there is written and video proof of an existing problem.

its sad really, they have a good product.. would be nice if they cared about their customers buying their product.

Anyway, It was looking hopeful that they were going to do something... but now it looks like they've been instructed to "snow ball" the situation to ignore it. Asking me to troubleshoot further by replacing the processor is just unexceptable.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> OMG, gigabyte tech support is the worst.. they seriously don't care that their products are built with defects that can be fixed with BIOS updates.
> 
> They now want me to switch processors in my rig with a phenom II to see if the problem still exists! Does that matter!? It exists with a processor that is on the supported list! Shouldn't that be all that matters... Let alone talking in circles with these idiots has me more than aggravated.
> 
> Wow, honestly at this point... I don't blame anyone for never purchasing a gigabyte product ever again.
> 
> Just as a comparison, I had a k9n2 Plat motherboard from MSI. And after years of faithful service and 4 different systems I decided to dedicate it to server duty. After having it all set up, I found a tiny glitch with the on board fan controller of the board, and found that it wouldn't control 3 of the 4 fan outputs when a specific mode was selected. I contacted MSI support and within 2 days they had a BIOS cooked up for me and fixed the problem! Furthermore they THANKED me for bringing this problem to their attention! This board had not been supported for years! and they helped me like that!
> 
> So yeah, gigabyte... You lost me as a customer.


you are one of several that i hear complain about gigabyte support.

I hope i will never have any problems with my board if they are so bad at customer service lol

Well if i am going to buy new board i would like to try an Asus board. They have great service, too bad Corsair does not have any boards their service is the best


----------



## mus1mus

Wondering if you guys tried hovering around CPU PLL Voltage, LLC and RAM voltages to get your CPU run cooler?? I've seen people from the ASUS thread doing these and produced good results. Anybody here confirm if these apply to GA-990FXA boards?

Just did a clean OS installation for a cheap SSD. 









At what clocks do this windows rating go up to the max on AMD FX's??


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Wondering if you guys tried hovering around CPU PLL Voltage, LLC and RAM voltages to get your CPU run cooler?? I've seen people from the ASUS thread doing these and produced good results. Anybody here confirm if these apply to GA-990FXA boards?
> 
> Just did a clean OS installation for a cheap SSD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At what clocks do this windows rating go up to the max on AMD FX's??


You mean at what clocks do WEI will rate the CPU 7.9 (max)? even at 5Ghz (FX-8350) it didn't go up to 7.9 in my case, doesn't really matter anyways, the actual gain in performance is there.

Only thing from stopping me from running 5Ghz as daily clocks is temps, even watercooled this CPU hits 70C core temp within 5mins of IBT so I just put it down to 4.8Ghz and it runs IBT 62C core temp max and prime95 gets it to 60C core temp. (socket temp is generally 12C higher than Core temp)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Wondering if you guys tried hovering around CPU PLL Voltage, LLC and RAM voltages to get your CPU run cooler?? I've seen people from the ASUS thread doing these and produced good results. Anybody here confirm if these apply to GA-990FXA boards?
> 
> Just did a clean OS installation for a cheap SSD.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At what clocks do this windows rating go up to the max on AMD FX's??


no asus does not get any help from pll, giga boards do i own both saberkitty and CVFz and can attest to both with the FX actually my temps got worse however on gigabyte i noticed a 10 c difference when putting it 1 click lower then 2.7
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> You mean at what clocks do WEI will rate the CPU 7.9 (max)? even at 5Ghz (FX-8350) it didn't go up to 7.9 in my case, doesn't really matter anyways, the actual gain in performance is there.
> 
> Only thing from stopping me from running 5Ghz as daily clocks is temps, even watercooled this CPU hits 70C core temp within 5mins of IBT so I just put it down to 4.8Ghz and it runs IBT 62C core temp max and prime95 gets it to 60C core temp. (socket temp is generally 12C higher than Core temp)


in windows 7 you CAN NOT get 7.9 without HT ( intel only ) the max with a amd you can get is 7.8


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sazz*
> 
> You mean at what clocks do WEI will rate the CPU 7.9 (max)? even at 5Ghz (FX-8350) it didn't go up to 7.9 in my case, doesn't really matter anyways, the actual gain in performance is there.
> 
> Only thing from stopping me from running 5Ghz as daily clocks is temps, even watercooled this CPU hits 70C core temp within 5mins of IBT so I just put it down to 4.8Ghz and it runs IBT 62C core temp max and prime95 gets it to 60C core temp. (socket temp is generally 12C higher than Core temp)


That's pretty good CB score. Very handsome Voltage at 5+ too. I see you installed the windows core scheduler patches as well. Or is it on Windows 8?
Have you seen a drop in CB score after the patches? What about mixing thing like CPU PLL voltage, RAM Voltage and LLC settings? I've had a morning tweaking those combinations to be able to get a stable 4.8 with much lesser heat on my CPU. Pretty much shaved more than 5 degrees average. Again Average as max temps happen once in a glitch. A stretch out VRM also add more heat on the CPU than cooler ones.

Gotta be doing another MOD on those VRM sinks very soon







A heat piped tower lingering on my head.


----------



## Mega Man

i refuse to mod my vrms just gonna block them and be done with it lol


----------



## mus1mus

[/quote]in windows 7 you CAN NOT get 7.9 without HT ( intel only ) the max with a amd you can get is 7.8[/quote]

Great answer man!!! Thanks I was actually thinking the reason why AMD can't get past 7.8 was their low single core performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no asus does not get any help from pll, giga boards do i own both saberkitty and CVFz and can attest to both with the FX actually my temps got worse however on gigabyte i noticed a 10 c difference when putting it 1 click lower then 2.7
> 
> Wow, I'm surprised mate. As it is in an ASUS forum that I read people experimenting with PLL and stuff to get their CPU's cooler. 2.7 is a bit high for a start I guess. I started my tests from 2.6ish. I looked for that borderline voltages where slashing off a 0.025 core voltage offset would already cause instability. From there I looked for the point where lowering or adding .050V on PLL would no longer scale with the temps while maintaining stability.
> 
> I then focus my attention on other Voltages. NB core, doesnt seem to scale with temps on mine. But scaled very well with getting things a tad more stable. RAM voltage, contributes to my heater
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but managed to pull out 133MHz more from rated speed, with better latency off same timings and voltages from my crappy 1866 Genesis'. 266 Mhz is already asking a lot of V's so I keep it close to rated voltage. Ram voltage alone can shave you more than 5 degrees if you are overclocking and overvolting them.
> 
> LLC on UD3 rev 3 doesn't seem right in my point of view.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't seem to find that Vdroop they were trying to avoid. More of a thermal throttling from the st$$id Vcore bump on this board. 0.07 volts jump from bios is neither Vdroop or throttling related. I think they are causing the throttle since temps scaled pretty actively from those voltage bumps. Keeping the VRM cool seemed to hold the Vs where they are most of the time. (normalized like displayed in the bios.)


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i refuse to mod my vrms just gonna block them and be done with it lol


If you have started blocking the CPU then it's worth it. lol Man, I just can't seem to get my hand easy from this fun OC'ing.. I wanna see this FX horse unleashed. There are just too many possibilities squeezing every bit of performance from these chips.


----------



## Mega Man

feel free to hit me up with any questions or the 83xx club in my sig . i am still learning giga boards but here are the basics
2600cpu/nb should be doable with ~1.2-1.3v

assuming you have a 83xx you will hit a voltage wall @~4.7 that only gets worse to 4.8 4.9 ect.

LLC high or ultra is more then enough
any more will add too much heat, alot of people say their chip runs cooler when they dont use llc and just compensate for the vdroop

CPU/nb will add the most heat, second to ht

the bigger ram ( IE 8gb sticks ) the more volts cpu/nb will need same with speed i have 2400 x8gb sets i have never got all 32gb stable yet, some can though, some cant even do 2400

you will need AT MIN a h100 for 5ghz, and i do mean at min. you need a golden chip to be able to do it with one. dh14 will get you 4.6~4.8
212 you will be lucky @ 4.5


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> feel free to hit me up with any questions or the 83xx club in my sig . i am still learning giga boards but here are the basics
> 2600cpu/nb should be doable with ~1.2-1.3v
> 
> assuming you have a 83xx you will hit a voltage wall @~4.7 that only gets worse to 4.8 4.9 ect.
> 
> LLC high or ultra is more then enough
> any more will add too much heat, alot of people say their chip runs cooler when they dont use llc and just compensate for the vdroop
> 
> CPU/nb will add the most heat, second to ht
> 
> the bigger ram ( IE 8gb sticks ) the more volts cpu/nb will need same with speed i have 2400 x8gb sets i have never got all 32gb stable yet, some can though, some cant even do 2400
> 
> you will need AT MIN a h100 for 5ghz, and i do mean at min. you need a golden chip to be able to do it with one. dh14 will get you 4.6~4.8
> 212 you will be lucky @ 4.5


Well, I spent the morning stress/testing a 4.75 with 2500 CPU-NB @ +0.150. CPU at +100 on regular LLC. It's running out the borderline at regular. Ultra meant an extra 0.020 volts from regular, medium and high. The voltages are more erratic at high than ultra though. Also noticed in ultra, throttles are minimal. More heat related than Vdroop like I said on a ud3 r3. Extreme meant 1.404-1.464 at 0 offset..









4.8 is at hand on my Silver Arrow. I'm having a gut feeling the board is my limit though. restarts without any reports of windows. More Vs? more heat on the VRMs. a better sink on the VRMs will probably get me past 4.8 but chance are small IMO. 4.8 stable is where I'm stopping on my current board. A cooler VRM (i.e from idle for 20 mins will give me lenghty runs on stress test.)

Also got this weird issue on my board processor combo when I input X12 CPU-NB multi. clocks are everywhere. Can score past 12K on PASSMARK at 4.8 but crashes on DirectX11 test. With lesser voltage and lesser heat. Even 4.9 is doable. Very weird. X13 seemed fine though. Might be Windows 7 though as 8 never had a problem running my CPU at 4.8 200HT ref. X12 CPU-NB.


----------



## Sazz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That's pretty good CB score. Very handsome Voltage at 5+ too. I see you installed the windows core scheduler patches as well. Or is it on Windows 8?
> Have you seen a drop in CB score after the patches? What about mixing thing like CPU PLL voltage, RAM Voltage and LLC settings? I've had a morning tweaking those combinations to be able to get a stable 4.8 with much lesser heat on my CPU. Pretty much shaved more than 5 degrees average. Again Average as max temps happen once in a glitch. A stretch out VRM also add more heat on the CPU than cooler ones.
> 
> Gotta be doing another MOD on those VRM sinks very soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A heat piped tower lingering on my head.


The patches automatically gets on the windows update now, and as of the voltages I only changed the CPU and NB voltages, as of LLC I set it at auto, whenever I set it to anything other than auto it puts out way too much voltage, even at "Regular".

I set my voltage at 1.475v on BIOS and LLC at Auto, with Auto LLC at full load it goes upto 1.564v (on Open Hardware Monitor) and with anything else other than auto it goes upto 1.6v! but im stable on auto LLC so I just left it there.

Temp wise at 5Ghz as I said goes to 70C core temp (82ish socket temp) after 5mins of IBT while at 4.8Ghz it goes to 62C core temp (74C socket temp) which is right on AMD's recommended max temperature, but as we all know that 62C core temp is actually way lower than the thing could actually withstand, some say 70C core temp and some say its much higher than that. but I won't take my chances and keep it on 62C core temp xD

The reason why I don't mess with the CPU PLL voltages, back then I started playing with it and end up killing the board and CPU, well good thing they are under warranty so I got replacement for both parts within a week.


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *itomic*
> 
> Does anyone else have a problems with this FCb BIOS for UD-5 REV 3.0 ?? I had lots off problems and i had to rool back FB BIOS.


I am having major problems with 990fxa-UD5, bios is one of the worst i have seen in Gigabyte MB's i cant find HT link multiplier anywhere,as well as othr features that one BIOS should have here is the SS http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/7066/7ryj.png
which disabled my OC potential, btw i have reached 4,7 GHz tested it with linx and the CPu passes but voltage drops are enormous









Any ideas?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well, I spent the morning stress/testing a 4.75 with 2500 CPU-NB @ +0.150. CPU at +100 on regular LLC. It's running out the borderline at regular. Ultra meant an extra 0.020 volts from regular, medium and high. The voltages are more erratic at high than ultra though. Also noticed in ultra, throttles are minimal. More heat related than Vdroop like I said on a ud3 r3. Extreme meant 1.404-1.464 at 0 offset..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.8 is at hand on my Silver Arrow. I'm having a gut feeling the board is my limit though. restarts without any reports of windows. More Vs? more heat on the VRMs. a better sink on the VRMs will probably get me past 4.8 but chance are small IMO. 4.8 stable is where I'm stopping on my current board. A cooler VRM (i.e from idle for 20 mins will give me lenghty runs on stress test.)
> 
> Also got this weird issue on my board processor combo when I input X12 CPU-NB multi. clocks are everywhere. Can score past 12K on PASSMARK at 4.8 but crashes on DirectX11 test. With lesser voltage and lesser heat. Even 4.9 is doable. Very weird. X13 seemed fine though. Might be Windows 7 though as 8 never had a problem running my CPU at 4.8 200HT ref. X12 CPU-NB.


it works fine (x12) on mine, make sure if you have a rev 3 hpc is on.

the voltages fluctuate more because there is less voltage available . ( IE increase your base voltage ) anytime there is a major pull on power volts will drop this effect is worse when you are at your limit ( what ever electronic wants more volts ) more volts = less amps needed, less volts = more amps needed for same work
have you put a fan on your vrms? with an 83xx and any decent oc i recommend at least mounting a fan on them even 2x 40mm fans work great, you dont need a ton of air just some air movement esp when using water .
i highly doubt your board is an issue i have seen great ocs already. my max is on a saberkitty @ 5.55ghz. http://hwbot.org/benchmark/hwbot_prime/ had #1 ( excluding the $3k intel server cpu ) for a long time. one day ill boot again as i think i could probably do 5.7 NP ( saberkitty maxed out @ 1.7v will lcc ) but i have been able to boot on the ud7 @ 5.2 without issue
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> I am having major problems with 990fxa-UD5, bios is one of the worst i have seen in Gigabyte MB's i cant find HT link multiplier anywhere,as well as othr features that one BIOS should have here is the SS http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/7066/7ryj.png
> which disabled my OC potential, btw i have reached 4,7 GHz tested it with linx and the CPu passes but voltage drops are enormous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas?


although i concede it is a horrible bios. it works well
ht is right infront of you as is cpu/nb
2600=2600/200= 13
2400=2400/200=12

their bios is lackluster but the board is solid.


----------



## Kronin

I am not talking about HT i am talking about HT multiplier which should be there.
I need to reduce it in order to make successful overclocking using bclk, how ever that does not exist.
Or am i just blind?


----------



## Mega Man

the "ht multiplier" IS the ht.... as i explained above


----------



## Kronin

I dont think we understand each other,
This:
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/3548/fcuo.jpg


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> I dont think we understand each other,
> This:
> http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/3548/fcuo.jpg


again notice how it says 2596 mhz????

2600mghz / stock fsb ( 200 ) =13 << this is your multi


----------



## Kronin

But do you see that multiplier is at X11 ???
He raised BCLK to 236 and reduced the multiplier to 11 thats how he got 2596.
I cant do that.


----------



## Theroty

Would a 990FX-UD3 be a good replacement for my 970a-UD3 when I move it to my sons computer? Or should I look at Asus 990fx Pro 2.0 or ASRock? Currently running at 4.6 on this board.


----------



## Kronin

Waste of money if you ask me.
Have you tried overclocking?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> But do you see that multiplier is at X11 ???
> He raised BCLK to 236 and reduced the multiplier to 11 thats how he got 2596.
> I cant do that.


yes you can. you figure out the multi like i showed you. then you multiply the multiplier by fsb, it DOES NOT show the changes in bios. but it still changes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> Would a 990FX-UD3 be a good replacement for my 970a-UD3 when I move it to my sons computer? Or should I look at Asus 990fx Pro 2.0 or ASRock? Currently running at 4.6 on this board.


if you want a heavier oc i would go sabertooth

if not it would be a good rep if oyu want to or you can keep it either or is a good choice.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> Would a 990FX-UD3 be a good replacement for my 970a-UD3 when I move it to my sons computer? Or should I look at Asus 990fx Pro 2.0 or ASRock? Currently running at 4.6 on this board.


people seem to be fairly happy with the rev4 of this board but the rev3 has alot of issues. I dont think you would be dissappointed with the UD3 if you get the rev4. Although as mentioned above youd be happier im sure with a sabertooth. The asrock boards are getting more and more popular aswell I am not familiar with them but i hear the fatal1ty or whatever its called is a good board. I think youd be happiest with the sabertooth though


----------



## Theroty

Outside of requesting a rev 4.0 board when I order or before not sure that I would get one.


----------



## vonss

I recently notice that if you enable "core unlocker" on the BIOS the "TMPIN2" changes to 12C and never goes up or down. This is so mess up...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> I recently notice that if you enable "core unlocker" on the BIOS the "TMPIN2" changes to 12C and never goes up or down. This is so mess up...


I could be wrong, but I believe that is chip thing not the MB.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I could be wrong, but I believe that is chip thing not the MB.


So after all this time and discussion, we still don't know what the *beep* that is? xD


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JPHL*
> 
> I have a ud3 rev. 1.0. We recently updated our home router to wireless ac and got a usb3.0 wireless ac adapter. now this works fine when plugged in to the usb3.0 port on the front of my machine fed from the motherboard but I discovered when trying to plug it into the usb 3.0 ports on the back of the motherboard that they do not work. I've confirmed that the ports supply power but neither usb2.0 or usb3.0 devices on those ports are recognized by the operating system. device manager has nothing visibly amiss. anyone know what my problem is. would rather not have to rma the board. had it for 2 years and have trouble believing I never checked those ports in the past but have never really needed anything besides the front one so can't be sure if I have ever used them or not


http://www.gigabyte.se/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3894&dl=1#driver

And look at bottom of page and dl the usb 3.0 drivers! Good luck!


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Can anyone give me a solution to this scenario: i have the 990fx ud5 rev 3.0 mobo and there is no option for me to raise the cpu/nb volt and therefor i cant oc my cpu/nb. I have it at 2340mhz, is that acceptable? I really want my cpu/nb at at least 2600mhz, would it be a noticble change by just upping it with about 200mhz or? And another question my rig is stable @4.81ghz and 1.48vcore, but my HT speed is at 3120mhz, would i benefit anything by maybe lowering it to lets say around 2400mhz to par with the cpu/nb and try to oc the cpu to 4.9ghz? Does the HT speed impact anything in the system? And last, isnt there any software that can make me changing the cpu/nb volt and speed in windows. Could i run my normal oc trough ordinary bios and then when windows is loaded a softwasre clock of the cpu/nb volt and speed kicks in?

Hmm my own oppionion is first of all that my cpu/nb wont be any difference by clocking it just 200mhz and that my HT speed isnt important at all as long as system is stable or?

Here is my best 3dmark11 result: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7120749 . It must be a great score for my system or? It says that i outperform this:

Intel Core i7-4770K
NVIDIA GeForce GTX Titan
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. Z87-PRO

Not clocked.

Should i be satiesfied with what i got? How much is a titan gtx gpu? Cause i know its one of the best gpu´s on the market and it feels so good to outperform it with 2 poor gtx660´s







And it feels as good to outperform a "Intel Core i7-4770K"


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Can anyone give me a solution to this scenario: i have the 990fx ud5 rev 3.0 mobo and there is no option for me to raise the cpu/nb volt and therefor i cant oc my cpu/nb. I have it at 2340mhz, is that acceptable? I really want my cpu/nb at at least 2600mhz, would it be a noticble change by just upping it with about 200mhz or? And another question my rig is stable @4.81ghz and 1.48vcore, but my HT speed is at 3120mhz, would i benefit anything by maybe lowering it to lets say around 2400mhz to par with the cpu/nb and try to oc the cpu to 4.9ghz? Does the HT speed impact anything in the system? And last, isnt there any software that can make me changing the cpu/nb volt and speed in windows. Could i run my normal oc trough ordinary bios and then when windows is loaded a softwasre clock of the cpu/nb volt and speed kicks in?
> 
> Hmm my own oppionion is first of all that my cpu/nb wont be any difference by clocking it just 200mhz and that my HT speed isnt important at all as long as system is stable or?
> 
> Here is my best 3dmark11 result: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7120749 . It must be a great score for my system or? It says that i outperform this:
> 
> Intel Core i7-4770K
> NVIDIA GeForce GTX Titan
> ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. Z87-PRO
> 
> Not clocked.
> 
> Should i be satiesfied with what i got? How much is a titan gtx gpu? Cause i know its one of the best gpu´s on the market and it feels so good to outperform it with 2 poor gtx660´s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And it feels as good to outperform a "Intel Core i7-4770K"


It depends on what speed your RAM runs, did you OC your RAM too?

If at stock you don't need to OC your CPU/NB.

As for HT link you are at the good speed and bandwidth









Make sure you have the latest BIOS update and try again it should be listed in your BIOS that you can add some volts to your CPU/NB.

And you never going to outperform at any chance an GTX titan and certainly not an Intel Core i7-4770K with that rig.

you would beat an GTX 680 with 660SLI but never an GTX Titan


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> It depends on what speed your RAM runs, did you OC your RAM too?
> 
> If at stock you don't need to OC your CPU/NB.
> 
> As for HT link you are at the good speed and bandwidth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you have the latest BIOS update and try again it should be listed in your BIOS that you can add some volts to your CPU/NB.
> 
> And you never going to outperform at any chance an GTX titan and certainly not an Intel Core i7-4770K with that rig.
> 
> you would beat an GTX 680 with 660SLI but never an GTX Titan


Well my ram speed is less then stock, its at 2080mhz and stock is 2133mhz. Take a look at this and see that i outperform that rig by like 150 points











There you see that i outperform it haha so nice









I just checked and saw that the titan is about 950 euros here and my 2 gtx660´s are about 400 euros


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

In certain scenarios the 660 SLI can and will beat the Titan. It won't win in all cases but for the price difference it is a much more attractive setup.


----------



## Mega Man

so status update, i have to give this board its dues !~ once you get your head around the failed bios, it is rock solid !~

4.75ghz 2500cpu/nb [email protected] 3250 ht

it stayed below 54 all night but it probably got to ~ 80 in my room ( pretty sad an ac guy without ac..... this will be fixed but my swap cooler does well actually )
i may try to push ht and cpu/nb more.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so status update, i have to give this board its dues !~ once you get your head around the failed bios, it is rock solid !~
> 
> 4.75ghz 2500cpu/nb [email protected] 3250 ht
> 
> it stayed below 54 all night but it probably got to ~ 80 in my room ( pretty sad an ac guy without ac..... this will be fixed but my swap cooler does well actually )
> i may try to push ht and cpu/nb more.


Good work on getting the ram to work at those speeds i must say! What are your timings, u might benefit from dropping down to 2133mhz and tighten timings, i think ive read something about it that u would get more from your system having it at 21333mhz instead 2400mhz. And when at 2133mhz lower timings of course. How much juice does your ram need for 2450mhz? Anyway its a really nice clock on the ram i must say espcially when i read about the fx imc is weak and infact it shouldnt be able to handle the speed you run your ram at, so really good job there







Why are you running [email protected] and not lets say 4.8ghz, have you hitted the famous "voltage wall"? I would be saitiesfied with your cpu/nb clock 2500mhz is nice, alot of guys arent getting over about 2400mhz on the cpu/nb. But my last question is making me curious, why do you wanna increase your HT speed? I think i havent seen anyone with as high HT speed as you have, and i thought i had high HT hehe. my Ht is at 3120mhz. But just because you said it i will try to pass you on the HT speed lol, but i dont think i will suceed. Btw with that HT speed you are running have you raised the HT link volt in bios? I havent. And as i took it, is that you work with Ac´s, am i right? If you do, isnt there any really compact ac´s that could convert to make a cpu cooler with?







Anyway good job with your clocking and again im impressed by your ram speed!


----------



## Mega Man

they make them, phase change
if you are talking about a ac case, they make them as well.

i have run 2400 np for a while. i have not got 32gb stable yet but some ppl can

on my CVFz i could bench at 3900 ht and 2500+ ram speed and i always kept my cpu/nb @ 2600 24/7 and i think i got it stable @ 3900ht 2700 cpu/nb
i also used 2400 on my sabertooth.
not all 8350s can run 2400 ( most can ) some can do 2 slots some 4 the 8gb sticks are more picky then the 4 gb ( more stress on the imc )
but the board died before i could prime it for long periods . ( in a bath.... during leak testing with no power to it lol )

i care about HT as i am running quadfire and i need the bandwidth

atm running 250fsb thence the 2500cpu/nb and 3250
will try 300fsb 3900ht and 2700 again when i have a full weekend to myself.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> There you see that i outperform it haha so nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just checked and saw that the titan is about 950 euros here and my 2 gtx660´s are about 400 euros


WOW. That makes me want to get another GTX 760. I guess I would need a new PS as well...

Right now I can beat a gaming laptop and smoke a business machine









I did have SLI once. With 2 3DFX Voodoo-IIs and a Matrox


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> WOW. That makes me want to get another GTX 760. I guess I would need a new PS as well...
> 
> Right now I can beat a gaming laptop and smoke a business machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have SLI once. With 2 3DFX Voodoo-IIs and a Matrox


Nice old school sli u had there, any pics of it? Would love to see them in that case. I think you should go sli with your gtx 760, and hmm will a 750w ps do? or is it to weak cause i bought my ps for 50 euros but sadly it isnt modular so its a snakes nest in the chassi hehe. Ahh i just checked prices on the gtx 760 and they seem really like a good purchase, they are about 220 euros here depending on model of it. GO SLI







You would outperform much wich a sli setup of those cards, and if you compare it with a single titan its really worth the price.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> WOW. That makes me want to get another GTX 760. I guess I would need a new PS as well...
> 
> Right now I can beat a gaming laptop and smoke a business machine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have SLI once. With 2 3DFX Voodoo-IIs and a Matrox


Nice old school sli u had there, any pics of it? Would love to see them in that case. I think you should go sli with your gtx 760, and hmm will a 750w ps do? or is it to weak cause i bought my ps for 50 euros but sadly it isnt modular so its a snakes nest in the chassi hehe. Ahh i just checked prices on the gtx 760 and they seem really like a good purchase, they are about 220 euros here depending on model of it. GO SLI







You would outperform much wich a sli setup of those cards, and if you compare it with a single titan its really worth the price.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they make them, phase change
> if you are talking about a ac case, they make them as well.
> 
> i have run 2400 np for a while. i have not got 32gb stable yet but some ppl can
> 
> on my CVFz i could bench at 3900 ht and 2500+ ram speed and i always kept my cpu/nb @ 2600 24/7 and i think i got it stable @ 3900ht 2700 cpu/nb
> i also used 2400 on my sabertooth.
> not all 8350s can run 2400 ( most can ) some can do 2 slots some 4 the 8gb sticks are more picky then the 4 gb ( more stress on the imc )
> but the board died before i could prime it for long periods . ( in a bath.... during leak testing with no power to it lol )
> 
> i care about HT as i am running quadfire and i need the bandwidth
> 
> atm running 250fsb thence the 2500cpu/nb and 3250
> will try 300fsb 3900ht and 2700 again when i have a full weekend to myself.


You really pull off some crazy numbers there m8, i have never seen anyone doin 3900mhz on the ht and wow damn 2500+ on the ram mhz!!!!! You seem like you know your way around the mysterious ways of overclocking. Do you think i would benefit anything by trying to increase my HT further? And what is it that decides hwo much fsb you can get out of your system


----------



## hurricane28

As for now i am using 200 FSB 4.8 @1.48 volts and CPU/NB at 2600 and RAM 2400 11-11-11-33 1.655 Volts and stock HT 2600.

That gives me the most stability







I must say that raising the CPU/NB needs a lot of volts to be stable so i do take a very good look at my temps when i am doing some intensive stuff but as for now i am stable for 1 week only i need to re-install windows but i am too lazy to do it









I am thinking of getting SLI too because i have the PSU for it and i saw some impressive benchmarks with the 660Ti, i can get one for 170 euro's so i am thinking of it.

But i do not think 660Ti SLI can beat Titan scores but maybe very close when overclocking the 2 cards


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> You really pull off some crazy numbers there m8, i have never seen anyone doin 3900mhz on the ht and wow damn 2500+ on the ram mhz!!!!! You seem like you know your way around the mysterious ways of overclocking. Do you think i would benefit anything by trying to increase my HT further? And what is it that decides hwo much fsb you can get out of your system


no no no i am just beginning. the ppl in the 83xx thread in my sig helped me a lot. be careful though there are a ton of people who pop their head in and say " Believe me because i say so" you just have to know where to prove it. i am dealing with one now.... although i am done. he will not prove anything besides showing an OLD ( seen it before several times, he is talking about max temp for 8350, stating it has no problems sustaining temps up to 90c ) recycled image showing 8350/8320s MAX temp before thermal shutdown {90c}

and all we said is AMDs recommended max temp is 62. ... but that is a different story

no HT oc would not help you at all it helps when running 3-4 GPU not 1-2

fsb is just another way of ocing, if you can find where your board likes to run oyu can go anywhere. i can boot ~333+ however visharas have fsb deadspots. IE it will boot @ 239 but not at 240~250 and boot fine @ 252+ but that is just some random numbers pulled outta thin air

the dead spots vary from chip to chip and mobo to mobo
you do have to add NB ( not cpu/nb ) volts to help stabilize it though


----------



## itomic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Can anyone give me a solution to this scenario: i have the 990fx ud5 rev 3.0
> 
> CPU-NB Voltage is just under CPU voltage and u can adjust it. Its NB Core voltage in your BIOS.


----------



## Theroty

Are the UD5 boards plagued with the same problems as the UD3 990FX boards? If not, I may get one. Otherwise I am looking at a Sabertooth.


----------



## itomic

No they are not. Now, does anybody knows what is max temp for MOSFET ?? And dont trust software for those temps becouse its not accurate at all. I have IC thermometar and while im runnig P95 at 1.49V and 4.6Ghz MOSFET gets up to 90C with about 20C ambiente temperature.


----------



## Mega Man

get a fan on the HS


----------



## Theroty

Thanks for the reply. I think I will just go with the Sabertooth. When I purchased my 970 board Gigabyte was known for quality. I am scared to get a lemon and then deal with crap.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no no no i am just beginning. the ppl in the 83xx thread in my sig helped me a lot. be careful though there are a ton of people who pop their head in and say " Believe me because i say so" you just have to know where to prove it. i am dealing with one now.... although i am done. he will not prove anything besides showing an OLD ( seen it before several times, he is talking about max temp for 8350, stating it has no problems sustaining temps up to 90c ) recycled image showing 8350/8320s MAX temp before thermal shutdown {90c}
> 
> and all we said is AMDs recommended max temp is 62. ... but that is a different story
> 
> no HT oc would not help you at all it helps when running 3-4 GPU not 1-2
> 
> fsb is just another way of ocing, if you can find where your board likes to run oyu can go anywhere. i can boot ~333+ however visharas have fsb deadspots. IE it will boot @ 239 but not at 240~250 and boot fine @ 252+ but that is just some random numbers pulled outta thin air
> 
> the dead spots vary from chip to chip and mobo to mobo
> you do have to add NB ( not cpu/nb ) volts to help stabilize it though


when you have an high CPU/NB you need to add CPU/NB volts to be stable....

I am using gigabyte boards for quite some time now and raising the CPU/NB, PLL voltage does stability...

Set the NB volts to 1.25 volts and max of 1.3 because those volts gain a lot of heat to the NB to stabilize the voltage and gain more stability add more volts to the PLL...


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Nice old school sli u had there, any pics of it? Would love to see them in that case. I think you should go sli with your gtx 760, and hmm will a 750w ps do? or is it to weak cause i bought my ps for 50 euros but sadly it isnt modular so its a snakes nest in the chassi hehe. Ahh i just checked prices on the gtx 760 and they seem really like a good purchase, they are about 220 euros here depending on model of it. GO SLI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would outperform much wich a sli setup of those cards, and if you compare it with a single titan its really worth the price.


I wish i had a picture of it, really kinda before the camera era. I don't remember at all what the case was like only that is was big and ugly tower common in the 90s.

I do recall making a custom length SLI cable out of old floppy drive cables









I'm sure it would be pretty embarrassing to today's build standards









When i built this computer I tried to use my fanless 400 watt but it lacks a few pins on the ATX and those other additional power cables for the PCI. Anyway all was not lost because I had an OCZ 650 watt, but I'm sure I did not buy it because I hate that brand. This must have been made for a super large tower... I have cables wired tied up everywhere, and its OCZ... would not mind seeing it go...


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I wish i had a picture of it, really kinda before the camera era. I don't remember at all what the case was like only that is was big and ugly tower common in the 90s.
> 
> I do recall making a custom length SLI cable out of old floppy drive cables
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure it would be pretty embarrassing to today's build standards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When i built this computer I tried to use my fanless 400 watt but it lacks a few pins on the ATX and those other additional power cables for the PCI. Anyway all was not lost because I had an OCZ 650 watt, but I'm sure I did not buy it because I hate that brand. This must have been made for a super large tower... I have cables wired tied up everywhere, and its OCZ... would not mind seeing it go...


lol good old school


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> As for now i am using 200 FSB 4.8 @1.48 volts and CPU/NB at 2600 and RAM 2400 11-11-11-33 1.655 Volts and stock HT 2600.
> 
> That gives me the most stability
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say that raising the CPU/NB needs a lot of volts to be stable so i do take a very good look at my temps when i am doing some intensive stuff but as for now i am stable for 1 week only i need to re-install windows but i am too lazy to do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking of getting SLI too because i have the PSU for it and i saw some impressive benchmarks with the 660Ti, i can get one for 170 euro's so i am thinking of it.
> 
> But i do not think 660Ti SLI can beat Titan scores but maybe very close when overclocking the 2 cards


If you fine tune your system and run @4.8ghz and have sli gtx660´s ti at minimum 1175mhz on cores and 375mhz-400mhz on memory on the gpus, and have your ht link around 2600mhz-3000. And cpu/nb speed at at least around 2400mhz-2800mhz and about 2133mhz with timings 10-11-10 command rate 1t. I can guarantee that you will beat a stock titan, im 100% sure yo will. And the gtx660 ti´´s are cheap now as well, and as u said you have the psu to run sli. I say go for it and show that you can beat that titan np. Good luck!


----------



## smorch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> With combination overclocking (HT ref + multi) on a ud3 rev3, remember this things:
> 
> 1. HT ref or BCLK is tied up to your memory, HT link, and CPU-NB clocks.
> To give you a hint, I'm running a 267 Ht ref. for an OC of 4667. Figure out the multiplier.
> 
> For you to be able to successfully do a combo OC, first, take note of your RAM speed and the memory multipliers supported by the motherboard.
> Standard on UD3 rev 3 are 4 , 6.66 , 8 , 9.33 , 10.66 which corresponds to 800 , 1333 , 1600 , 1866 , and of course 2133 when HT ref is left at 200.
> 
> Now if you touch your HT ref, figure out what RAM speeds you want to run. In my case, 2133 can be achieved by HT refs of 229 X 9.33 or 267 X 8. You get what I mean buddy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. HT link and CPU-NB speeds. At stock, they are at 2600 and 2200 respectively. Which corresponds to multiplier of 13 for the HT link and 11 for the CPU NB. AMD adviced to stay close to stock speeds. But you can safely run CPU-NB up to the speeds of the HT link. In my personal experience, the limit lies ~ 2600.
> 
> Since you already got an idea what Ht ref are you willing to run your RAMs,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> figure out the multiplier needed for your HT link and CPU NB to reach or be close to the limit of 2600 (again In my own experience) you can try shooting for higher that 2600.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Say 229, 229 X 11 will give you 2519. seems good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? Match that by entering 2200 for both HT LINK and CPU-NB. Try if you can boot..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3. Lastly, major things taken, lets get back to the basics. Doing a COMBO OC is either practiced by people who want to OC their RAMs or just simply hope they could improve on the single core performance of a CPU. And IMO, both can be achieved as I have seen my system reached better scores both on the RAM bandwidth, Latency and better clock to clock performance compared to just using the multiplier OC. But then again, doing so will also mean you have to tweak your RAMs' timings (if you are overclocking it) to make them work. Lastly, make sure your CPU-NB speed does not exceed your HT Link speed. you can clock them the same.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I mentioned them things you need to do. Go figure out the rest.
> 
> Enjoy OC'ing mate. These FX's were fun to OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One thing I will ask you to do (or try) though. Try an HT ref of 200, CPU-NB of 2400, and an HT LINK of 2600 once you figure out the things mentioned above. I have this thing happening in my set-up that got me NUTS. Just wanna know if that happens to the others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Give us feedbacks mate..
> 
> And don't forget to MEMTEST if you do OC your RAM.


Well, had to attend to other things in my life, so haven't been able to try some of the things you recommended until now.

First off, I tried your request mentioned at the end of your post, where you ask, "Try an HT ref of 200, CPU-NB of 2400, and an HT LINK of 2600... I have this thing happening in my set-up that got me NUTS. Just wanna know if that happens to the others.







"

I first set optimized defaults, then made changes by disabling the usual suspects (Core Performance Boost, C1E, and the other power saving settings), then set my CPU Multiplier to 20, and set LLC="Ultra High", and enabled HPC. Given my settings at this point were stock speed (i.e. - part of your request: HT ref of 200, HT Link of 2600), I simply set CPU-NB from the stock 2200 to 2400. I additionally changed all other AUTO settings, by entering their manual defaults.

I booted with no problem. I decided to run Passmark's Performance Test 8, which tests a variety of things. It was running fine up until the 3D Graphics tests started. Direct 9 tests ran OK, but Direct X 10 test hung... I used task manager and terminated the Performance 8 test process. Restarted the test, but ran individual tests instead of the suite of tests. I found that the Direct X 11 test ran, but it ran in a very jerky fashion, like frames were being skipped. I didn't do any other testing with this configuration, so I'm not sure what behavior you encountered when running this test. Maybe you can let me know.

This leads me back to the fact that I'm still relatively new to OC'ing, and most of my experience is with CPU Clock Multiplier OC'ing. I have a profile on my Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 revision 3.0 mobo, which sets up a fairly stable 4.5GHz OC using CPU Clock Multiplier (and disables Core Performance Boost, disables power saving features, sets LLC="Ultra High", and enables HPC, and sets all other AUTO entries to manual defaults). I then loaded that profile, and set the CPU Clock Multiplier back to stock (20.0), and decided to try some FSB OC'ing. I set HT Ref to 230, and bumped up NB Core by +0.025 (I assume NB Core is the CPU/NB voltage on this board, and I assume that is the voltage I need to increase as I increase HT Ref to make it more stable.... ==> correct me if that's a wrong assumption).

I booted up, ran Performance Test 8.0 but during the test I had a BSOD. So, back in BIOS I adjusted HT Ref to 220, leaving NB Core offset at +0.025, and modified CPU multiplier to 20.5 (to effectively get a CPU Frequency of 2510 MHz), and rebooted. At this point I decided to run AOD (AMD Over Drive), and check some values (Sure wish Gigabyte in their UEFI Bios would use the same nomenclatures as what they use in AOD.... it would make things simpler!)









I was somewhat suprised, because AOD reported NB Frequency was 2420 MHz, and HT Link Speed was 2860 MHz...even though I manually set these in the BIOS to 2200 and 2600.









Regarding the NB Frequency and HT Link Speed settings in the BIOS of the GA-990FXA-UD3; if I manually enter the stock values (2200, 2600 respectively), shouldn't that prevent them from changing if I manually increase the HT Ref to something like 220? Perhaps I misunderstand how those settings work?

Anyway, so at this point CPU Clock = 4510 MHz, NB Frequency = 2420 MHz, and HT Link Speed = 2860 MHz. After verifying the values in both AOD and CPU-Z, I then ran Prime95 Small FFT (just the first set of tests). CPU Temp never exceeded 50 C (CPU is cooled by Corsair H80i), and tests passed, but after the 3rd test the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0 reared it's ugly head and started with the vdroop and throttling...not excessively, but enough to drop the average CPU Clock from 4510 Mhz to about 4300 Mhz. BTW, when I just used a CPU Multi OC to 4500 MHz, I got the same sort of results.

So at this point (ignoring the throttling and vdroop issues on the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0 mobo), I remain a bit perplexed on doing HT Ref OCing, and why manually setting NB Frequency and HT Link Speed appear to have no effect if I set HT Ref Clock to something like 220.

Any suggestions are welcome.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no no no i am just beginning. the ppl in the 83xx thread in my sig helped me a lot. be careful though there are a ton of people who pop their head in and say " Believe me because i say so" you just have to know where to prove it. i am dealing with one now.... although i am done. he will not prove anything besides showing an OLD ( seen it before several times, he is talking about max temp for 8350, stating it has no problems sustaining temps up to 90c ) recycled image showing 8350/8320s MAX temp before thermal shutdown {90c}
> 
> and all we said is AMDs recommended max temp is 62. ... but that is a different story
> 
> no HT oc would not help you at all it helps when running 3-4 GPU not 1-2
> 
> fsb is just another way of ocing, if you can find where your board likes to run oyu can go anywhere. i can boot ~333+ however visharas have fsb deadspots. IE it will boot @ 239 but not at 240~250 and boot fine @ 252+ but that is just some random numbers pulled outta thin air
> 
> the dead spots vary from chip to chip and mobo to mobo
> you do have to add NB ( not cpu/nb ) volts to help stabilize it though


Very interesting, i didnt know of those deadspots in the fsb, thanks alot for the info







I will try to get higher fsb today. My old max fsb was 267, but i will add some juice to the "NB Core" voltage and the "Nb voltage" voltage. I f anyone have any idea how much i should i raise these 2 voltages i would happily takes advice.


----------



## Mega Man

nb = board north bridge nb core = cpu/nb
nb core ~ 1.2-1.3 for ~ 2600 depending on chip and your ram
nb honestly excluding extreme ocs never needed more then 1.2


----------



## hurricane28

Stock NB speed is enough for like 2133 mhz RAM... so the only reason why you would overclock CPU/NB is that you try to rum 2400mhz or more and even than most vishera CPU's do not like more than 2500 and if they do its very unstable.

I do not see any point of raising the NB voltage because its the CPU/NB that you OC so that is the voltage you need to adjust









you can leave the NB voltage at 1.2 or maybe 1.225 but that is up to you.

Also raising the HT is not necessary if running 1 card but in your case it would be beneficial to run HT at 2800 or maybe 3000 and also the HT needs volts if adjusted.

Try to find the PLL voltages and upper them to the last setting before the red begins the so called save aria.

Good luck


----------



## Mega Man

average oc on cpu/nb is 2600
np volts help stabilize ocs and or ocs on anything that communicates with nb'
ht will not help ( may help benching ) in normal real life instances. it is plenty for 2 gpus


----------



## hurricane28

Not true at all mate, it depends on what CPU you have and most can't get stable at more than 2500mhz CPU/NB

HT link stands for Hyper transport and is not only for GPU's but for communication between the chip set and CPU and give some more bandwidth so if you Oc the rest of your components its advised to OC the HT link as well.

It depends on the board because i did run 5ghz and 2400mhz RAM and CPU/NB to 2570 at 1.2 volts and could not boot, than i tried CPU/NB volts and it was stable as a rock but due to my cooler its better to run it at 4.8.

Also CPU PLL gives me some more hear room for adding more volts and so is more stable that is the same for the RAM,NB PLL..

In my opinion its better to have the CPU running at a little less core speed like 4.8 instead of 5ghz and OC the rest like HT, CPU/NB and RAM that gives more speed than only the CPU, also its more stable because if you have your max of the CPU its harder to OC the rest to the max because you are already at the CPU limit..


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Stock NB speed is enough for like 2133 mhz RAM... so the only reason why you would overclock CPU/NB is that you try to rum 2400mhz or more and even than most vishera CPU's do not like more than 2500 and if they do its very unstable.
> 
> I do not see any point of raising the NB voltage because its the CPU/NB that you OC so that is the voltage you need to adjust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try to find the PLL voltages and upper them to the last setting before the red begins the so called save aria.
> 
> Good luck


What read and learned i have the same oppionion when it comes to getting a nice cpu/nb number. That it is "CPU/NB" you need tweaked and not the "NB voltage" or the "NB core". Imho i only think that you should increase the "NB core" and "NB voltage" by a very small amount of juice to it to get a stable system easier, but i might be wrong.

But i have tried to both increase "NB core" and "NB voltage" and i dont see any increase in the NB-vid in aida64 extreme after tweaking thoose 2 factors. But some guy told me that it will increase the volt to the cpu*/nb anyway but that its bugged and you cant see it in programs? I cant say if hes right or wrong. But i run my cpu/[email protected] at stock cpu/nb volt so i guess i have to be satiesfied with that until/if gigabyte gives us ud5 rev3 boards the option to have cpu/nb volatge option.

Thanks for your advice guys!

Ohh and i had 1 more question if you want to lower timings on your ram, can it help to increase the voltage to the ram then? Or does increaseing the volt only makes you gonna go higher on the speed and not timings?

Argg lol i come to think i have one last question again hehe. Here it goes: Does changing the volt to the "NB/PCIE/PLL" voltage do anything for you?

And i have gotten some pointers trough pm, thank you guys you know who you are and if i forgot to +rep you just tell me hehe.

Dang now i come to think of another question: What does the "HPC" option in bios do for you and should it be enabled or disabled, cause i have heard both. "HPC" means hmm High Performance Computing or something? What can HPC do for me?

Thanks again.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Not true at all mate, it depends on what CPU you have and most can't get stable at more than 2500mhz CPU/NB
> 
> HT link stands for Hyper transport and is not only for GPU's but for communication between the chip set and CPU and give some more bandwidth so if you Oc the rest of your components its advised to OC the HT link as well.
> 
> It depends on the board because i did run 5ghz and 2400mhz RAM and CPU/NB to 2570 at 1.2 volts and could not boot, than i tried CPU/NB volts and it was stable as a rock but due to my cooler its better to run it at 4.8.
> 
> Also CPU PLL gives me some more hear room for adding more volts and so is more stable that is the same for the RAM,NB PLL..
> 
> In my opinion its better to have the CPU running at a little less core speed like 4.8 instead of 5ghz and OC the rest like HT, CPU/NB and RAM that gives more speed than only the CPU, also its more stable because if you have your max of the CPU its harder to OC the rest to the max because you are already at the CPU limit..


again. no
there is NOTHING in any computer i can think of. that would use more data then GPUS.... NOTHING. do you know how much data they use? even if you had a full board of raid. the raid is only hooked to a the equivalent of pciex2 NOTHING besides GPUS will saturate that bandwidth. so even if you oc other things... no you dont need to oc and any gains you saw were
1. because in your case your oc was more stable.
2 because your other components were faster
3 99% oc chips can get 2600 stable without issue. 2700 is where it gets hard
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> What read and learned i have the same oppionion when it comes to getting a nice cpu/nb number. That it is "CPU/NB" you need tweaked and not the "NB voltage" or the "NB core". Imho i only think that you should increase the "NB core" and "NB voltage" by a very small amount of juice to it to get a stable system easier, but i might be wrong.
> 
> But i have tried to both increase "NB core" and "NB voltage" and i dont see any increase in the NB-vid in aida64 extreme after tweaking thoose 2 factors. But some guy told me that it will increase the volt to the cpu*/nb anyway but that its bugged and you cant see it in programs? I cant say if hes right or wrong. But i run my cpu/[email protected] at stock cpu/nb volt so i guess i have to be satiesfied with that until/if gigabyte gives us ud5 rev3 boards the option to have cpu/nb volatge option.
> 
> Thanks for your advice guys!
> 
> Ohh and i had 1 more question if you want to lower timings on your ram, can it help to increase the voltage to the ram then? Or does increaseing the volt only makes you gonna go higher on the speed and not timings?
> 
> Argg lol i come to think i have one last question again hehe. Here it goes: Does changing the volt to the "NB/PCIE/PLL" voltage do anything for you?
> 
> And i have gotten some pointers trough pm, thank you guys you know who you are and if i forgot to +rep you just tell me hehe.
> 
> Dang now i come to think of another question: What does the "HPC" option in bios do for you and should it be enabled or disabled, cause i have heard both. "HPC" means hmm High Performance Computing or something? What can HPC do for me?
> 
> Thanks again.


(1st)the voltages depends. these chips take a beating i have pushed ~ 1.6v though my IMC ( cpu/nb ) during my extreme ocing ( On water ) without issue or damage

(2nd) it can. but lowering timings on ram is tricky. also ram can be picky about volts too fyi

(3rd) on 99% of other boards pll does.... nothing. on giga boards there is a high amount of ppl who claim it lowered temps by a decent amount. in my case it lowered temps ~ 10c

(4th) you are correct about the definition. on most boards it just means your chip will not throttle due to tdp ( pretty sure that is what it goes off of. mine always stays ~ 40c on water or air without it and APM on ) but WILL throttle ( IF APM IS ON ) @ 72c socket
however giga boards seem not to have a socket temps. ( at least my rev3 )

also on giga boards (only rev 3 to my knowledge) you have to turn on HPC to make your OC settings work. i can change volts. and various freq. but not all will change as i change them in bios


----------



## hurricane28

Well you are right about the GPU's there is nothing that is faster than a GPU.

than maybe i am that 0.1% that cant get such a high CPU/NB because i tried 2600 at 2400 RAM and it was a no go every time blue screen and now i lowered it to 2570 and its working just fine.

Did i read that correct that you put 1.6 volts through your CPU/NB? at what CPU speed and volts that was? because adding CPU/NB volts gains a lot of heat and i wonder how you would cool such thing.

your ambient temps must be very low than


----------



## Mega Man

no. suicide runs where you dont care about temps.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> What read and learned i have the same oppionion when it comes to getting a nice cpu/nb number. That it is "CPU/NB" you need tweaked and not the "NB voltage" or the "NB core". Imho i only think that you should increase the "NB core" and "NB voltage" by a very small amount of juice to it to get a stable system easier, but i might be wrong.
> 
> But i have tried to both increase "NB core" and "NB voltage" and i dont see any increase in the NB-vid in aida64 extreme after tweaking thoose 2 factors. But some guy told me that it will increase the volt to the cpu*/nb anyway but that its bugged and you cant see it in programs? I cant say if hes right or wrong. But i run my cpu/[email protected] at stock cpu/nb volt so i guess i have to be satiesfied with that until/if gigabyte gives us ud5 rev3 boards the option to have cpu/nb volatge option.
> 
> Thanks for your advice guys!
> 
> Ohh and i had 1 more question if you want to lower timings on your ram, can it help to increase the voltage to the ram then? Or does increaseing the volt only makes you gonna go higher on the speed and not timings?
> 
> Argg lol i come to think i have one last question again hehe. Here it goes: Does changing the volt to the "NB/PCIE/PLL" voltage do anything for you?
> 
> And i have gotten some pointers trough pm, thank you guys you know who you are and if i forgot to +rep you just tell me hehe.
> 
> Dang now i come to think of another question: What does the "HPC" option in bios do for you and should it be enabled or disabled, cause i have heard both. "HPC" means hmm High Performance Computing or something? What can HPC do for me?
> 
> Thanks again.


I told you its better to use HWINFO64 because you have everything you need in that program and can monitor everything like voltages, temps, usage of your components and you can let is run in the back ground too.

According to RAM it can be indeed very tricky to lower timings but add more volts can gain more stability, like i put 1.655 volts.

I looked at the G.Skill page to see what 2400 RAM timings were and voltages and tried it and it was a success but not all RAM clock at the same speed and timings it can take a while to get your best RAM settings and if you are lucky you will get the same results as the 2133 or 2400 RAM with the same settings.

I use CPU/NB volts to gain stability but maybe it is different on rev 3.0 boards, also i use high PLL voltages and it runs cooler and more stable.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smorch*
> 
> Well, had to attend to other things in my life, so haven't been able to try some of the things you recommended until now.
> 
> First off, I tried your request mentioned at the end of your post, where you ask, "Try an HT ref of 200, CPU-NB of 2400, and an HT LINK of 2600... I have this thing happening in my set-up that got me NUTS. Just wanna know if that happens to the others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "
> 
> I first set optimized defaults, then made changes by disabling the usual suspects (Core Performance Boost, C1E, and the other power saving settings), then set my CPU Multiplier to 20, and set LLC="Ultra High", and enabled HPC. Given my settings at this point were stock speed (i.e. - part of your request: HT ref of 200, HT Link of 2600), I simply set CPU-NB from the stock 2200 to 2400. I additionally changed all other AUTO settings, by entering their manual defaults.
> 
> I booted with no problem. I decided to run Passmark's Performance Test 8, which tests a variety of things. It was running fine up until the 3D Graphics tests started. Direct 9 tests ran OK, but Direct X 10 test hung... I used task manager and terminated the Performance 8 test process. Restarted the test, but ran individual tests instead of the suite of tests. I found that the Direct X 11 test ran, but it ran in a very jerky fashion, like frames were being skipped. I didn't do any other testing with this configuration, so I'm not sure what behavior you encountered when running this test. Maybe you can let me know.


Thank you so much for trying it out. You confirmed my suspicion that ud3 rev3 has a CPU-NB block at X12. By block I meant you can't pull off a stable clock at X12 CPU-NB. Sad coz if you have seen with yours, the CPU performance at that clock is so awesome I can't see people pull off the kind of score you can get at the same clock. At 4.8 I was able to pull off a 12000+ CPU score on PASSMARK. Even WPrime and HyperPi scaled with it. Even AIDA64 confirmed it!! I have tried everything to stabilize it but to no effect. DirectX just crash. Although I think it has something to do with Windows 7 as well. Windows 8 has no problems with CPU-NB at X12. Though performance ain't the same with windows 7.
Quote:


> This leads me back to the fact that I'm still relatively new to OC'ing, and most of my experience is with CPU Clock Multiplier OC'ing. I have a profile on my Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 revision 3.0 mobo, which sets up a fairly stable 4.5GHz OC using CPU Clock Multiplier (and disables Core Performance Boost, disables power saving features, sets LLC="Ultra High", and enables HPC, and sets all other AUTO entries to manual defaults). I then loaded that profile, and set the CPU Clock Multiplier back to stock (20.0), and decided to try some FSB OC'ing. I set HT Ref to 230, and bumped up NB Core by +0.025 (I assume NB Core is the CPU/NB voltage on this board, and I assume that is the voltage I need to increase as I increase HT Ref to make it more stable.... ==> correct me if that's a wrong assumption).
> 
> I booted up, ran Performance Test 8.0 but during the test I had a BSOD. So, back in BIOS I adjusted HT Ref to 220, leaving NB Core offset at +0.025, and modified CPU multiplier to 20.5 (to effectively get a CPU Frequency of 2510 MHz), and rebooted. At this point I decided to run AOD (AMD Over Drive), and check some values (Sure wish Gigabyte in their UEFI Bios would use the same nomenclatures as what they use in AOD.... it would make things simpler!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was somewhat suprised, because AOD reported NB Frequency was 2420 MHz, and HT Link Speed was 2860 MHz...even though I manually set these in the BIOS to 2200 and 2600.


Increasing the HT ref clock will also increase your CPU-NB and HT Link clocks depending on their Multiplier. You said at 230, you had a BSOD and at 220, you checked your CPU-NB and HT Link were at 2420 and 2860. Which if you do the math, were just the product of 220 X 12 and 13 respectively. 2200 = HTref X 11, 2600 =HTref X 13. Which at stock, HT ref =200.








Quote:


> Regarding the NB Frequency and HT Link Speed settings in the BIOS of the GA-990FXA-UD3; if I manually enter the stock values (2200, 2600 respectively), shouldn't that prevent them from changing if I manually increase the HT Ref to something like 220? Perhaps I misunderstand how those settings work?


Again, No. They will depend on the value of the HTref you set and their respective multipliers.
Quote:


> Anyway, so at this point CPU Clock = 4510 MHz, NB Frequency = 2420 MHz, and HT Link Speed = 2860 MHz. After verifying the values in both AOD and CPU-Z, I then ran Prime95 Small FFT (just the first set of tests). CPU Temp never exceeded 50 C (CPU is cooled by Corsair H80i), and tests passed, but after the 3rd test the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0 reared it's ugly head and started with the vdroop and throttling...not excessively, but enough to drop the average CPU Clock from 4510 Mhz to about 4300 Mhz. BTW, when I just used a CPU Multi OC to 4500 MHz, I got the same sort of results.
> 
> So at this point (ignoring the throttling and vdroop issues on the GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 3.0 mobo), I remain a bit perplexed on doing HT Ref OCing, and why manually setting NB Frequency and HT Link Speed appear to have no effect if I set HT Ref Clock to something like 220.
> 
> Any suggestions are welcome.


I have tried comparing my OC clock to clock both with multiplier only OC and HT ref OC. And yes, the result will yield comparable performance at the same clock speed. Say, 200 X 24 = 4800 MHz and 218 X 22 = 4796 MHz. But, aside from your CPU, other components of your system run faster with an increase in the HTref. Which is both good and bad.
Good as you will eventually get more performance from your system. Bad as you would more likely encounter difficulties stabilizing your OC as other components gets OC'd you'd need to stabilize them as well.

IMHO though, overall you get a better running system once you find a way to stabilize a Combination OC. Memory for example gets some boast with HT ref increase. CPU-NB which plays a big role in memory performance gets boast too. But like everyone else is saying, HTref OC'ing requires more voltage tweaking which in turn, give out more heat. On mine though, I found my sweetspot at 218 X 22 = 4796 MHz. CPU-NB at X11, HT Link at X12 which gave me CPU-NB at 2398 and HT Link at 2616. 1866 RAM running at 2033 MHz with timings 9-11-10-1 at 1.630 Volts. To give me this http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=13375956896 result with PASSMARK. I bet you can pull this off too. Voltages were almost left to stock other than the Core voltage at +100 and RAM. It's not yet stable as I have been fine tuning things again after reverting back to bios FC.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> As for now i am using 200 FSB 4.8 @1.48 volts and CPU/NB at 2600 and RAM 2400 11-11-11-33 1.655 Volts and stock HT 2600.
> 
> That gives me the most stability
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must say that raising the CPU/NB needs a lot of volts to be stable so i do take a very good look at my temps when i am doing some intensive stuff but as for now i am stable for 1 week only i need to re-install windows but i am too lazy to do it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am thinking of getting SLI too because i have the PSU for it and i saw some impressive benchmarks with the 660Ti, i can get one for 170 euro's so i am thinking of it.
> 
> But i do not think 660Ti SLI can beat Titan scores but maybe very close when overclocking the 2 cards


2400 Mhz CL 11 with CPU-NB of 2600







Can you please post an AIDA64 bench figures of this? I just wondered how much bandwidth your rig can pull off at 2400 RAM







.How does it compare to a 2133 CL9 if you have tried? 2600 CPU-NB can be a bit tricky on the voltages IMO.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nb = board north bridge nb core = cpu/nb
> nb core ~ 1.2-1.3 for ~ 2600 depending on chip and your ram
> nb honestly excluding extreme ocs never needed more then 1.2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Stock NB speed is enough for like 2133 mhz RAM... so the only reason why you would overclock CPU/NB is that you try to rum 2400mhz or more and even than most vishera CPU's do not like more than 2500 and if they do its very unstable.
> 
> I do not see any point of raising the NB voltage because its the CPU/NB that you OC so that is the voltage you need to adjust
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can leave the NB voltage at 1.2 or maybe 1.225 but that is up to you.
> 
> Also raising the HT is not necessary if running 1 card but in your case it would be beneficial to run HT at 2800 or maybe 3000 and also the HT needs volts if adjusted.
> 
> Try to find the PLL voltages and upper them to the last setting before the red begins the so called save aria.
> 
> Good luck


Can you guys confirm the NB voltage? I have this confusion between the two or maybe 3 of them voltages for the FX.
1st, NB Core voltage must refer to the CPU-NB. correct?
2nd, HT Link is what AMD calls their North Bridge, hence logical to say that OC'ing the HT Link means increasing your HT Link Voltage as well. correct?
3rd, NB voltage is for North Bridge. But which North Bridge?









\Weird but I find my Northbridge heatsink hot when using HT Link more than 2600. And lowering my HT Link Voltage by 0.1 volts didn't give me errors. And cools my NB!! To the touch I should say. Also, NB Voltage helped me stabilize when using HT ref Overclocking to give me CPU-NB speed of 2398 leaving my CPU-NB Voltage at stock +0.000 . So IMHO, CPU-NB and NB Voltage relate to one thing, CPU-NB. But I need confirmation from vets like you guys..

Lastly, What were the values for the PLL voltages you'd call in the so called safe area?
Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Can you guys confirm the NB voltage? I have this confusion between the two or maybe 3 of them voltages for the FX.
> 1st, NB Core voltage must refer to the CPU-NB. correct?
> 2nd, HT Link is what AMD calls their North Bridge, hence logical to say that OC'ing the HT Link means increasing your HT Link Voltage as well. correct?
> 3rd, NB voltage is for North Bridge. But which North Bridge?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> \Weird but I find my Northbridge heatsink hot when using HT Link more than 2600. And lowering my HT Link Voltage by 0.1 volts didn't give me errors. And cools my NB!! To the touch I should say. Also, NB Voltage helped me stabilize when using HT ref Overclocking to give me CPU-NB speed of 2398 leaving my CPU-NB Voltage at stock +0.000 . So IMHO, CPU-NB and NB Voltage relate to one thing, CPU-NB. But I need confirmation from vets like you guys..
> 
> Lastly, What were the values for the PLL voltages you'd call in the so called safe area?
> Thanks


cpu/nb = IMC ( nb core )
my understanding of ht is this, however i could be wrong. this is definitely my weak point in pcs .
ht link is the speed parts talk to each other, most notably pcie lanes. which pretty much everything on your board attaches to ( besides ram ) sata, usb ect all communicate though ht
north bridge is just that the NB on the board.


source

i have always been told ppl safe net is BELOW ( not at ) 2.7v i never found documentation stating that


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 2400 Mhz CL 11 with CPU-NB of 2600
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you please post an AIDA64 bench figures of this? I just wondered how much bandwidth your rig can pull off at 2400 RAM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .How does it compare to a 2133 CL9 if you have tried? 2600 CPU-NB can be a bit tricky on the voltages IMO.


Yes sure, here it is











I haven't tried 2133 CL9 but maybe i need to lower the RAM a bit because the CPU/NB simply cannot keep up because on 2400 you need an NB speed higher than 2500 and that's very hard because most chips don't like more than 2500 so i guess i go back to 2133 or maybe 2200 idk yet.

its very simple, if you OC your CPU/NB add more volts to the CPU/NB until you are stable but watch temps tho because adding voltage to it causes higher temps.

Adding more PLL gives more stability in some cases i don't know if that works for everyone but for me it worked.


----------



## mus1mus

Not very much different from what I can see when I used to run my RAM at 2133 9-11-9-1 @ 1.70 ..However, I reflashed my bios and now I can't get it to run at 267 HTref. Besides, mine's an 1866 CL9 at stock with 1.65 volts. Not enough room I should say. I might try again though.

I bet you can pull off better figures at 2133 cl9 while keeping your CPU-NB at 2400 or higher. Have you lowered your TRFC down to 110?. I have run on mine completely safe. At least my Hyperx Genesis were able to run at their minimum TRFCs.









That maybe the reason why my 2133 got close to your figures.


----------



## hurricane28

This is my best score so far, the first one i had some stuff running









Also my CPU is clocked higher.

What is TRFC ? never heard of it.


----------



## mus1mus

Memory Timing. It's under the secondary timings.







I meant Row Refresh Cycle Time. Sorry for the error. at stock, I guess it's at 160 ns. I lowered mine to 110 ns as per the spec sheet of my RAM.







You can even even lower it down to 90 if your RAM supports it.

Also, You are on CR2 which means you could go for further bandwidth.







Never saw that the first time..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Memory Timing. It's under the secondary timings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I meant Row Refresh Cycle Time. Sorry for the error. at stock, I guess it's at 160 ns. I lowered mine to 110 ns as per the spec sheet of my RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can even even lower it down to 90 if your RAM supports it.
> 
> Also, You are on CR2 which means you could go for further bandwidth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never saw that the first time..


Aha i will take a look at it later thnx for the info


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Memory Timing. It's under the secondary timings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I meant Row Refresh Cycle Time. Sorry for the error. at stock, I guess it's at 160 ns. I lowered mine to 110 ns as per the spec sheet of my RAM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can even even lower it down to 90 if your RAM supports it.
> 
> Also, You are on CR2 which means you could go for further bandwidth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Never saw that the first time..


Nope its a no go for me man, also what is CR2? i need to take a look better at RAM speeds and timings man its sound very interesting.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again. no
> there is NOTHING in any computer i can think of. that would use more data then GPUS.... NOTHING. do you know how much data they use? even if you had a full board of raid. the raid is only hooked to a the equivalent of pciex2 NOTHING besides GPUS will saturate that bandwidth. so even if you oc other things... no you dont need to oc and any gains you saw were
> 1. because in your case your oc was more stable.
> 2 because your other components were faster
> 3 99% oc chips can get 2600 stable without issue. 2700 is where it gets hard
> (1st)the voltages depends. these chips take a beating i have pushed ~ 1.6v though my IMC ( cpu/nb ) during my extreme ocing ( On water ) without issue or damage
> 
> (2nd) it can. but lowering timings on ram is tricky. also ram can be picky about volts too fyi
> 
> (3rd) on 99% of other boards pll does.... nothing. on giga boards there is a high amount of ppl who claim it lowered temps by a decent amount. in my case it lowered temps ~ 10c
> 
> (4th) you are correct about the definition. on most boards it just means your chip will not throttle due to tdp ( pretty sure that is what it goes off of. mine always stays ~ 40c on water or air without it and APM on ) but WILL throttle ( IF APM IS ON ) @ 72c socket
> however giga boards seem not to have a socket temps. ( at least my rev3 )
> 
> also on giga boards (only rev 3 to my knowledge) you have to turn on HPC to make your OC settings work. i can change volts. and various freq. but not all will change as i change them in bios


You claim that your temps lowered by 10c?! To be honest that sounds ridiculous man but if there is proof i would like to know how much voltage you use on the PLL because i did add some voltages to it and get a little temp drop but not like 10c like you claim to get...

I would like to know all of your settings to if you don't mind because it seems that you can get some crazy overclocks and to me that seems very unlikely because i can hit max 2570 at CPU/NB

Maybe there is something you do different because we have basically the same board only you have more PCI-E lanes and some bios button and post LED's

That's why i would like to know all of your settings


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

You guys cranking up the CPU-NB speeds. Have you experienced Windows Aero no longer working? If I push my CPU-NB past 2400mhz Aero no longer functions properly. Most times it takes several reboots to get to work. If I back the CPU-NB overclock off it works perfect.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> You guys cranking up the CPU-NB speeds. Have you experienced Windows Aero no longer working? If I push my CPU-NB past 2400mhz Aero no longer functions properly. Most times it takes several reboots to get to work. If I back the CPU-NB overclock off it works perfect.


Yes i do sometimes, i cranked mine up to 2570 and that is about the max i can get with this board and chip.

I don't know how Mega Man can have more than 2600 CPU/NB because most 8350's ive heard of can't do much more than 2400 so that's why i asked for proof









Also its pointless to OC the CPU/NB any higher because these chips can't run much higher Ram speed than 2133 stable 24/7 and that is the only way why you should OC the CPU/NB basically because otherwise it can simply not keep up with the RAM speed.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Mine is at 2250 right now, I really haven't messed with it much since I couldn't really get 2400 reliably. Good to know its not just me though.


----------



## hurricane28

What is your RAM speed at?

But like i said, the only reason to OC CPU/NB is when you RAM is overclocked as well otherwise there is no difference in speed.

I know you can do much better with that chip man, how is your board doing and what batch number is your CPU or VID?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Mine is at 2250 right now, I really haven't messed with it much since I couldn't really get 2400 reliably. Good to know its not just me though.


Im glad you mentioned this actually i was worried it was just me haha. No matter what I change voltage wise or how far i push it as soon as i overclock it one click up on my mobo (2400) it wont ever stabilize and windows aero NEVER works. So maybe mines worse off then yours but I seem to have the same/similar issue.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Im glad you mentioned this actually i was worried it was just me haha. No matter what I change voltage wise or how far i push it as soon as i overclock it one click up on my mobo (2400) it wont ever stabilize and windows aero NEVER works. So maybe mines worse off then yours but I seem to have the same/similar issue.


I have the same problem man









Its kinda sad that AMD cannot make an good quality chip because it varies soo much the one can have 5ghz with 1.55volts and the other cant even get 4.8 at 1.58 volts.

what Mega Man said is not true man, i can sure boot up to 2570 but its no were near stable at that speed most can do 2400 and that's it , so i guess we are stuck at 1866mhz RAm because running 2133 or even 2400 mhz would be pointless with a CPU/NB speed at stock or even at 2400 -_-

i contacted AMD about this anomaly but they would not give any information at all... ive had it with hand picked chips and than come here and say that they all can do the same witch they clearly can't.


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

I got my cpu/[email protected] now. Stable, but ram is only at 2080mhz 10-11-10 1cr. Tomorrow im gonna try to oc my ram more. ill get back if i suceed but i doubt that i will







And finally i got a pm from a very helpfull member here that explained that on my mobo the ud5 rev3.0 its the nb core thats the cpu/nb so i raised the offset to it and i got my cpu/nb running at 2600mhz







But as he explained to me as well is that not any sofware program will show my true cpu/nb volt and i find that true cause in like hwinfo64 and other programs they all show stock voltage at cpu/nb volt







So well i really have no idea how much volt i am feeding my cpu/nb with, and i dont like that :/


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> I got my cpu/[email protected] now. Stable, but ram is only at 2080mhz 10-11-10 1cr. Tomorrow im gonna try to oc my ram more. ill get back if i suceed but i doubt that i will
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And finally i got a pm from a very helpfull member here that explained that on my mobo the ud5 rev3.0 its the nb core thats the cpu/nb so i raised the offset to it and i got my cpu/nb running at 2600mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as he explained to me as well is that not any sofware program will show my true cpu/nb volt and i find that true cause in like hwinfo64 and other programs they all show stock voltage at cpu/nb volt
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So well i really have no idea how much volt i am feeding my cpu/nb with, and i dont like that :/


Alright so its a bit different on the rev 3.0 after all.

How much voltage did you add to the NB?

I was reading about CPU/NB and RAM speeds but what i found was rather strange because they say that to match your RAM the CPU/NB must be 3X like 1866/2 is 933 x 3 is 2799

looks little odd if you ask me LOL

Yes FX chips are hard to read and also the boards of them i don't like that either but hey what can you do about it


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> You claim that your temps lowered by 10c?! To be honest that sounds ridiculous man but if there is proof i would like to know how much voltage you use on the PLL because i did add some voltages to it and get a little temp drop but not like 10c like you claim to get...
> 
> I would like to know all of your settings to if you don't mind because it seems that you can get some crazy overclocks and to me that seems very unlikely because i can hit max 2570 at CPU/NB
> 
> Maybe there is something you do different because we have basically the same board only you have more PCI-E lanes and some bios button and post LED's
> 
> That's why i would like to know all of your settings


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> You guys cranking up the CPU-NB speeds. Have you experienced Windows Aero no longer working? If I push my CPU-NB past 2400mhz Aero no longer functions properly. Most times it takes several reboots to get to work. If I back the CPU-NB overclock off it works perfect.


yea that is typical from what i have seen on this board if your oc is unstable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes i do sometimes, i cranked mine up to 2570 and that is about the max i can get with this board and chip.
> 
> I don't know how Mega Man can have more than 2600 CPU/NB because most 8350's ive heard of can't do much more than 2400 so that's why i asked for proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also its pointless to OC the CPU/NB any higher because these chips can't run much higher Ram speed than 2133 stable 24/7 and that is the only way why you should OC the CPU/NB basically because otherwise it can simply not keep up with the RAM speed.


seriously? you never read any of my posts in the 83xx thread ? i never said i did any of them with this board. i can bench @ 2700 cpu/nb on either sabertooth or CVFz have not even tried on my ud7 you want proof ? most of the users ( the main ones ) in the 83xx thread have 2600+ cpu/nb sorry your h100 cant do it.

also i never took screens of the temps ( the pll drop ) i was trying to get my board stable. in prime my pc instantly went to 60c now it tops out @50 i never took screens because it was unstable. take it or not. or buy a real loop and test it yourself

it has been well documented that the pll does not help on boards other then gigabyte for what ever reason. and i can attest it sure didnt on either my sabertooth or my CVFz

http://cdn.overclock.net/7/75/759e46a3_32gb240030min.png only one i can find with my 2600 cpu/nb most 83xx can hit 2600 maybe yours cant. i would be willing to bet it is user error though. it is also possible that GIGA boards cant hit it. i never had a problem on my either of my asus boards i can tell you i have had many more problems with this board.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Nope its a no go for me man, also what is CR2? i need to take a look better at RAM speeds and timings man its sound very interesting.


CR1 or command rate 1. A memory timing. I won't go and can't go into the details of this but, to make it short, CR1 is faster than CR2. I also found out that running speeds higher than 1866 on mine requires some tweaking of the tertiary subtimings. I have no idea about ud7 and ud5 but on ud3 r3, it's found on the bottom of the memory options screen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> You guys cranking up the CPU-NB speeds. Have you experienced Windows Aero no longer working? If I push my CPU-NB past 2400mhz Aero no longer functions properly. Most times it takes several reboots to get to work. If I back the CPU-NB overclock off it works perfect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Im glad you mentioned this actually i was worried it was just me haha. No matter what I change voltage wise or how far i push it as soon as i overclock it one click up on my mobo (2400) it wont ever stabilize and windows aero NEVER works. So maybe mines worse off then yours but I seem to have the same/similar issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I have the same problem man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its kinda sad that AMD cannot make an good quality chip because it varies soo much the one can have 5ghz with 1.55volts and the other cant even get 4.8 at 1.58 volts.
> 
> what Mega Man said is not true man, i can sure boot up to 2570 but its no were near stable at that speed most can do 2400 and that's it , so i guess we are stuck at 1866mhz RAm because running 2133 or even 2400 mhz would be pointless with a CPU/NB speed at stock or even at 2400 -_-
> 
> i contacted AMD about this anomaly but they would not give any information at all... ive had it with hand picked chips and than come here and say that they all can do the same witch they clearly can't.


I mentioned it a few posts back. Even asked Smoorch about doing it. And I did already confirmed this. X12 multiplier for CPU NB won't work with windows 7. But working on windows 8.

It's not in any way connected to what you guys were saying about a CPU-NB of 2400. You can still get around and get past the 2400 mark in a couple of ways.

1.X12 is a dead spot. Try X13 or 2600. I can do this with a little bump in CPU-NB and NB voltages.

2. Stay with a Multiplier of X11 and work your HT ref up. I can get a 2500 CPU-NB by doing an HT ref of 250, while my ram can get to 2000MHz. or 218 x 11 to give me 2398. even 229 X 11. or even 233 X 11.

I'll be posting screen showing this later.

But that needs a lot of juice. I have to back down my CPU OC as well to stay within the temps.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Alright so its a bit different on the rev 3.0 after all.
> 
> How much voltage did you add to the NB?
> 
> I was reading about CPU/NB and RAM speeds but what i found was rather strange because they say that to match your RAM the CPU/NB must be 3X like 1866/2 is 933 x 3 is 2799
> 
> looks little odd if you ask me LOL
> 
> Yes FX chips are hard to read and also the boards of them i don't like that either but hey what can you do about it


Also, this statement is way outta what I been seing from guides. AMD's official Bulldozer guide mentioned CPU-NB MUST AT LEAST BE TWICE your RAM SPEED. RAM speeds isn't also expressed in like, 1866 or 2133 when talking about them technically. They are half of your rated speeds. 1866 = 933, 2133 = 1066 since they are running dual cahnnels. A CPU-NB of at least 2400 will overpower your RAM in AMD Speak that you need to bump your RAM Voltages UP.,. Intels are way too aggressive with RAMs. I have tried 1.8 volts just to stabilize my RAM OC with no problems. Not even heating up. On Intels, even running your 1600 RAM to a default of 1333 will and your RAM will be hotter..

I did a CPU-NB of 2670 by using a combination of 267 HTref x 10 or 2000 in the BIOS. But that would need too much voltage for the CPU-NB that I have to back down my CPU OC from 4.67 to like 4.5 so I can lower my CPU Core voltage to compensate for the Heat. But if you guys were having better cooling, pulling off 2600+ CPU-NB won't be a sore without sacrificing your CPU clock.

By the way, I can say that 4.8GHz on multi will yield you the same CPU performance with 4.8GHz on high HT ref. The gains would come from other stuff though.







So overall, you'll get better performance with high HTref and CPU-NB..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I have the same problem man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its kinda sad that AMD cannot make an good quality chip because it varies soo much the one can have 5ghz with 1.55volts and the other cant even get 4.8 at 1.58 volts.


To lighten up your mood about silicon lottery on AMD FX Chips, here's for HASWELL http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/06/01/intel_haswell_i74770k_ipc_overclocking_review/6#.UkEK04YmkSM.. lol


----------



## dmfree88

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> CR1 or command rate 1. A memory timing. I won't go and can't go into the details of this but, to make it short, CR1 is faster than CR2. I also found out that running speeds higher than 1866 on mine requires some tweaking of the tertiary subtimings. I have no idea about ud7 and ud5 but on ud3 r3, it's found on the bottom of the memory options screen.
> 
> I mentioned it a few posts back. Even asked Smoorch about doing it. And I did already confirmed this. X12 multiplier for CPU NB won't work with windows 7. But working on windows 8.
> 
> It's not in any way connected to what you guys were saying about a CPU-NB of 2400. You can still get around and get past the 2400 mark in a couple of ways.
> 
> 1.X12 is a dead spot. Try X13 or 2600. I can do this with a little bump in CPU-NB and NB voltages.
> 
> 2. Stay with a Multiplier of X11 and work your HT ref up. I can get a 2500 CPU-NB by doing an HT ref of 250, while my ram can get to 2000MHz. or 218 x 11 to give me 2398. even 229 X 11. or even 233 X 11.
> 
> I'll be posting screen showing this later.
> 
> But that needs a lot of juice. I have to back down my CPU OC as well to stay within the temps.
> Also, this statement is way outta what I been seing from guides. AMD's official Bulldozer guide mentioned CPU-NB MUST AT LEAST BE TWICE your RAM SPEED. RAM speeds isn't also expressed in like, 1866 or 2133 when talking about them technically. They are half of your rated speeds. 1866 = 933, 2133 = 1066 since they are running dual cahnnels. A CPU-NB of at least 2400 will overpower your RAM in AMD Speak that you need to bump your RAM Voltages UP.,. Intels are way too aggressive with RAMs. I have tried 1.8 volts just to stabilize my RAM OC with no problems. Not even heating up. On Intels, even running your 1600 RAM to a default of 1333 will and your RAM will be hotter..
> 
> I did a CPU-NB of 2670 by using a combination of 267 HTref x 10 or 2000 in the BIOS. But that would need too much voltage for the CPU-NB that I have to back down my CPU OC from 4.67 to like 4.5 so I can lower my CPU Core voltage to compensate for the Heat. But if you guys were having better cooling, pulling off 2600+ CPU-NB won't be a sore without sacrificing your CPU clock.
> 
> By the way, I can say that 4.8GHz on multi will yield you the same CPU performance with 4.8GHz on high HT ref. The gains would come from other stuff though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So overall, you'll get better performance with high HTref and CPU-NB..






Dead spot eh? I had read about this happening with people.

I guess I never really thought it would happen at such a low level.

Maybe I will try 2600 later as you mentioned.. but really it sounds like I dont need it based on what your saying. My rams only 1600 in dual dimm (so 800). Really theres no need for me to push it at this point. Atleast not until i get a better mobo/ram


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> 
> Dead spot eh? I had read about this happening with people.
> 
> I guess I never really thought it would happen at such a low level.
> 
> Maybe I will try 2600 later as you mentioned.. but really it sounds like I dont need it based on what your saying. My rams only 1600 in dual dimm (so 800). Really theres no need for me to push it at this point. Atleast not until i get a better mobo/ram


What if I say, you'll get the comparable performance to an 1866 RAM on 2200 CPU-NB when you bump up your CPU-NB to at least 2400??

Sounds not possible?

Increasing your CPU-NB meant powering your memory controller to be faster. You'll get better bandwidth and lesser latency on your RAM at increased CPU-NB..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> What is your RAM speed at?
> 
> But like i said, the only reason to OC CPU/NB is when you RAM is overclocked as well otherwise there is no difference in speed.
> 
> I know you can do much better with that chip man, how is your board doing and what batch number is your CPU or VID?


My RAM is at 2100mhz 9-11-10-2T. The board is still alive I'm honestly shocked by that lol. I don't remember the CPU's batch number. I had it written down somewhere but I'm not sure where its at.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Im glad you mentioned this actually i was worried it was just me haha. No matter what I change voltage wise or how far i push it as soon as i overclock it one click up on my mobo (2400) it wont ever stabilize and windows aero NEVER works. So maybe mines worse off then yours but I seem to have the same/similar issue.


Yeah its annoying. I've even pumped some volts into it and it still didn't care. I was like oh well then lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea that is typical from what i have seen on this board if your oc is unstable.


Oh its definitely an instability but it doesn't seem to matter how many volts I pump into it, it still does it.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> My RAM is at 2100mhz 9-11-10-2T. The board is still alive I'm honestly shocked by that lol. I don't remember the CPU's batch number. I had it written down somewhere but I'm not sure where its at.
> Yeah its annoying. I've even pumped some volts into it and it still didn't care. I was like oh well then lol.
> Oh its definitely an instability but it doesn't seem to matter how many volts I pump into it, it still does it.


but if mus1mus is right we just had a dead spot. if we would upped the OC higher and left the voltage the same (or attempted higher voltage at a higher clock) it may have worked fine.

I am curious to try but I havent played with my PC since i sent my gpu in for RMA. Im currently buying a MSI 7870 hawk edition so when that gets here I will do some more tinkering. Its no fun overclocking your PC when your gpu is a 8600GTS and cant do hardly anything anyways haha.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> but if mus1mus is right we just had a dead spot. if we would upped the OC higher and left the voltage the same (or attempted higher voltage at a higher clock) it may have worked fine.
> 
> I am curious to try but I havent played with my PC since i sent my gpu in for RMA. Im currently buying a MSI 7870 hawk edition so when that gets here I will do some more tinkering. Its no fun overclocking your PC when your gpu is a 8600GTS and cant do hardly anything anyways haha.


You could always try mate. Stay at X11 or 2200 CPU-NB on the Bios and figure out your HTref that can give you more than 2400 CPU-NB while keeping an eye on your RAM speeds. If you are not comfortable running your RAM at a higher speeds, you can always drop the RAM Multiplier and match your rated speed while keeping your XMP Profiles. Add some CPU-NB Voltage, Test. But note, although you don't want to ran your RAM OC'd, once you increase the HTref with RAM speeds matching your rated speed and setting it to your XMP Profile, RAM Timings will be increased if set to AUTO. To get around this, Just go to the Memory page and manually input your timings based on your XMP which is shown as well.









Or go and try X13 or 2600 without touching your HTref. Up your CPU-NB to about +050 as a start. boot. test.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> CR1 or command rate 1. A memory timing. I won't go and can't go into the details of this but, to make it short, CR1 is faster than CR2. I also found out that running speeds higher than 1866 on mine requires some tweaking of the tertiary subtimings. I have no idea about ud7 and ud5 but on ud3 r3, it's found on the bottom of the memory options screen.
> 
> I mentioned it a few posts back. Even asked Smoorch about doing it. And I did already confirmed this. X12 multiplier for CPU NB won't work with windows 7. But working on windows 8.
> 
> It's not in any way connected to what you guys were saying about a CPU-NB of 2400. You can still get around and get past the 2400 mark in a couple of ways.
> 
> 1.X12 is a dead spot. Try X13 or 2600. I can do this with a little bump in CPU-NB and NB voltages.
> 
> 2. Stay with a Multiplier of X11 and work your HT ref up. I can get a 2500 CPU-NB by doing an HT ref of 250, while my ram can get to 2000MHz. or 218 x 11 to give me 2398. even 229 X 11. or even 233 X 11.
> 
> I'll be posting screen showing this later.
> 
> But that needs a lot of juice. I have to back down my CPU OC as well to stay within the temps.
> Also, this statement is way outta what I been seing from guides. AMD's official Bulldozer guide mentioned CPU-NB MUST AT LEAST BE TWICE your RAM SPEED. RAM speeds isn't also expressed in like, 1866 or 2133 when talking about them technically. They are half of your rated speeds. 1866 = 933, 2133 = 1066 since they are running dual cahnnels. A CPU-NB of at least 2400 will overpower your RAM in AMD Speak that you need to bump your RAM Voltages UP.,. Intels are way too aggressive with RAMs. I have tried 1.8 volts just to stabilize my RAM OC with no problems. Not even heating up. On Intels, even running your 1600 RAM to a default of 1333 will and your RAM will be hotter..
> 
> I did a CPU-NB of 2670 by using a combination of 267 HTref x 10 or 2000 in the BIOS. But that would need too much voltage for the CPU-NB that I have to back down my CPU OC from 4.67 to like 4.5 so I can lower my CPU Core voltage to compensate for the Heat. But if you guys were having better cooling, pulling off 2600+ CPU-NB won't be a sore without sacrificing your CPU clock.
> 
> By the way, I can say that 4.8GHz on multi will yield you the same CPU performance with 4.8GHz on high HT ref. The gains would come from other stuff though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So overall, you'll get better performance with high HTref and CPU-NB..


O well, i guess i stay with AMD after all









No but seriously, i did notice the same thing i did get more speed when i was at 4.8 with high HT and CPU/NB than when i was on 5ghz with the rest at stock, it makes sense tho because there is no use to have the CPU at 5ghz when the rest is at stock because you would simply not benefit from its speed because RAM ICM holds you back and with higher HT i get some more points in 3Dmark11 but in games there is not much difference.

I will take a look at those dead spots and try again higher CPU/NB with lower CPU but it seems that Giga boards are full of dead spots.

but its my machine and it runs like i want it to run


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Alright so its a bit different on the rev 3.0 after all.
> 
> How much voltage did you add to the NB?
> 
> I was reading about CPU/NB and RAM speeds but what i found was rather strange because they say that to match your RAM the CPU/NB must be 3X like 1866/2 is 933 x 3 is 2799
> 
> looks little odd if you ask me LOL
> 
> Yes FX chips are hard to read and also the boards of them i don't like that either but hey what can you do about it


Im running cpu/[email protected] and offset 0.125+, if anyone knows how much that is in volts i would be very happy cause i have no idea and no software will show the true cpu/nb volt, they all show stock at nb-vid: 1.188v!

I will try now to get my ram higher then it is now or lowered timings. Current ram is 2080mhz 9-11-10 1CR at 1.65v. I will google kingstons beast series 2400mhz ram if there is any and use those timings, and increase volt to 1.7v. At 1.65v my ram runs very cool when i touched them by my hands.

You guys that got your temperature lowered by adding cpu/pll voltage, at wich voltage do you run them? I have mine at 2.550v atm. And will adding volt to NB/PCIE/PLL do anything?

Finally what is this "HTref" you are talking about? Is it "fsb" or "bclk"? I know "HT" but i know by reading what you say that it isnt the HT link speed you are talking about.

I have my system stable now at: [email protected], HT [email protected], CPU/[email protected],ram 2080mhz 9-11-10 1CR.

I will now focus on finding out more about wich volt would benefit my system when it comes to "CPU PLL". So please you guys that got positive results from a higher "CPU PLL" volt and run a fx8350 can you share at wich volt you run it? And last, would i benefit anything by raising the volt to the "NB/PCIE/PLL"?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Im running cpu/[email protected] and offset 0.125+, if anyone knows how much that is in volts i would be very happy cause i have no idea and no software will show the true cpu/nb volt, they all show stock at nb-vid: 1.188v!
> 
> I will try now to get my ram higher then it is now or lowered timings. Current ram is 2080mhz 9-11-10 1CR at 1.65v. I will google kingstons beast series 2400mhz ram if there is any and use those timings, and increase volt to 1.7v. At 1.65v my ram runs very cool when i touched them by my hands.
> 
> You guys that got your temperature lowered by adding cpu/pll voltage, at wich voltage do you run them? I have mine at 2.550v atm. And will adding volt to NB/PCIE/PLL do anything?
> 
> Finally what is this "HTref" you are talking about? Is it "fsb" or "bclk"? I know "HT" but i know by reading what you say that it isnt the HT link speed you are talking about.
> 
> I have my system stable now at: [email protected], HT [email protected], CPU/[email protected],ram 2080mhz 9-11-10 1CR.
> 
> I will now focus on finding out more about wich volt would benefit my system when it comes to "CPU PLL". So please you guys that got positive results from a higher "CPU PLL" volt and run a fx8350 can you share at wich volt you run it? And last, would i benefit anything by raising the volt to the "NB/PCIE/PLL"?


Great i am running it now at 2600 too







strangely i can do it now too with no adding anymore volts to it, my guess is that my windows is corrupt and i need to do a re-install soon.

Also my SSD is not at its best health anymore so maybe its time to swap it for a better one









Well if you CPU/NB VID is 1.188 and adding .125 it should run at 1.313 but to me that's not that important i am more aware of the temps and i don't let the NB run any hotter than 70c because than my board begins to throttle and maybe that's the same with yours.

http://www.alternate.nl/Kingston_HyperX/Kingston_HyperX+8_GB_DDR3-2400_Kit,_geheugen/html/product/1044476/

I looked for the Hyper X beast RAM and maybe you can try to get the same settings









Adding PLL voltage does make it more stable but i did not get any better temps i guess but to be honest i did not check that so maybe there is some difference but it can be no were near the 10c difference the other guy mentioned, that makes no sense at all and is not logical to me, but hey if he is right that would be still awesome









I run my PLL to 2.995 i think the last one before the red shows up, you know what i mean? I did the same to NB/PCIE/PLL 1.895 i believe.

Good luck man


----------



## hurricane28

This is my current setting and i am stable for hours now so i guess its rock solid.

I do have the new Nvidia drivers and some games are crashing on me so i guess its the driver because when it crashes the driver reloaded so maybe i am going back to 314.22 the most stable one.


----------



## hurricane28

My new stable setting









And indeed there is a dead spot because when i was at 2400 profile it crashes on me after +-10 minutes of gaming and now i am gaming a lot longer and no issues whatsoever


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You could always try mate. Stay at X11 or 2200 CPU-NB on the Bios and figure out your HTref that can give you more than 2400 CPU-NB while keeping an eye on your RAM speeds. If you are not comfortable running your RAM at a higher speeds, you can always drop the RAM Multiplier and match your rated speed while keeping your XMP Profiles. Add some CPU-NB Voltage, Test. But note, although you don't want to ran your RAM OC'd, once you increase the HTref with RAM speeds matching your rated speed and setting it to your XMP Profile, RAM Timings will be increased if set to AUTO. To get around this, Just go to the Memory page and manually input your timings based on your XMP which is shown as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or go and try X13 or 2600 without touching your HTref. Up your CPU-NB to about +050 as a start. boot. test.


So I bumped my CPU-NB up to the stock multi and with my 225mhz bus its running happily at 2475mhz. If I try going up to the 2600mhz multi I get no boot so I guess I'll either have to back off the bus overclock and use my multipliers or wait until I have better cooling so I can push my overclock higher. I don't want to use the CPU multi because that on-off-on BS this board does annoys me and I'm certain it will take out a drive someday.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So I bumped my CPU-NB up to the stock multi and with my 225mhz bus its running happily at 2475mhz. If I try going up to the 2600mhz multi I get no boot so I guess I'll either have to back off the bus overclock and use my multipliers or wait until I have better cooling so I can push my overclock higher. I don't want to use the CPU multi because that on-off-on BS this board does annoys me and I'm certain it will take out a drive someday.


you can do eeet









Try higher bus speed and add some more CPU/Nb volts or NB volts for the rev 3.0 and you are okay.

Are u using that cooler in push/pull? and what fans are yo using? what TIM do you use and did you add some PLL voltage too?

All these things can drastic reduce the heat of that chip


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> 
> My new stable setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And indeed there is a dead spot because when i was at 2400 profile it crashes on me after +-10 minutes of gaming and now i am gaming a lot longer and no issues whatsoever


You got a really nice oc going there m8







Nice timings for 2400mhz and well all of it is nice. I only got one suggestion for you to try and thats to enter bios and try to get your "CR" command rate for your ram to 1 instead of 2. i think it may be able to handle it and it makes your ram a little faster. I had no sucess in ocing my ram to 2400mhz so i have to settle for 2080mhz and 9-11-10 and 1CR. I had the ram voltage up to 1.7volt without no sucess. And as you said before i cant either understand how you could lower your temps by -10c by adding volt to CPU/PLL. Ive read some about cpu/pll and it seems ppl gets around -5c infact :O But only some boards. And it seems you can get more stable by adding volt to cpu/pll and thats what i noticed as well by raising my cpu/pll to 1.695v i get stable easier. Im gonna Also ive read about when ppl raise cpu/pll ppl can lower there vcore 1 notch or so. I tried to lower my vcore without no sucess but i will copy your settings for cpu/pll and the nb/pcie/pll and then try to lower vcore 1 notch or get a little bit higher oc.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> you can do eeet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try higher bus speed and add some more CPU/Nb volts or NB volts for the rev 3.0 and you are okay.
> 
> Are u using that cooler in push/pull? and what fans are yo using? what TIM do you use and did you add some PLL voltage too?
> 
> All these things can drastic reduce the heat of that chip


Oh I've had it up over 2500mhz CPU-NB, but the Kuhler 620 just can't handle anymore. I'm running at 4.5ghz and its hitting 62-64C. Its still 30-31C here in Florida so my computer room stays fairly warm. I need to replace this motherboard and pick up a H100 and really crank it up.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So I bumped my CPU-NB up to the stock multi and with my 225mhz bus its running happily at 2475mhz. If I try going up to the 2600mhz multi I get no boot so I guess I'll either have to back off the bus overclock and use my multipliers or wait until I have better cooling so I can push my overclock higher. I don't want to use the CPU multi because that on-off-on BS this board does annoys me and I'm certain it will take out a drive someday.


maybe your dead spot is 2600? not sure if you can push it to 2800 but it might boot after that. Might need better cooling at that point though. Could be wrong but might be worth a shot


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> You got a really nice oc going there m8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice timings for 2400mhz and well all of it is nice. I only got one suggestion for you to try and thats to enter bios and try to get your "CR" command rate for your ram to 1 instead of 2. i think it may be able to handle it and it makes your ram a little faster. I had no sucess in ocing my ram to 2400mhz so i have to settle for 2080mhz and 9-11-10 and 1CR. I had the ram voltage up to 1.7volt without no sucess. And as you said before i cant either understand how you could lower your temps by -10c by adding volt to CPU/PLL. Ive read some about cpu/pll and it seems ppl gets around -5c infact :O But only some boards. And it seems you can get more stable by adding volt to cpu/pll and thats what i noticed as well by raising my cpu/pll to 1.695v i get stable easier. Im gonna Also ive read about when ppl raise cpu/pll ppl can lower there vcore 1 notch or so. I tried to lower my vcore without no sucess but i will copy your settings for cpu/pll and the nb/pcie/pll and then try to lower vcore 1 notch or get a little bit higher oc.


Thnx m8 i appreciate it









i tried getting 1T but it was a no go i could not even boot, so i am fine with this, 2400 makes an huge difference when you transfer a lot of files and do a lot of winrar type of stuff other wise my 1866 with 8-9-9-24 timings felt a lot snappier in windows tho but in games everything loads a lot faster an most applications like RAM speed above timings so i am good with this









According to PLL there is no way you can get 10c difference you can knock that ball out of the park now because that aint gonna happen man, the best i saw was like 4c difference and that is because you can lower the core voltage but that's it.

PLL allows more volts to the CPU and the same for the CPU/NB so to add more PLL you can lower the voltage to the CPU or CPU/NB.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Oh I've had it up over 2500mhz CPU-NB, but the Kuhler 620 just can't handle anymore. I'm running at 4.5ghz and its hitting 62-64C. Its still 30-31C here in Florida so my computer room stays fairly warm. I need to replace this motherboard and pick up a H100 and really crank it up.


Well the h100 or h100i is not much better than high end air cooling m8, only in push/pull with a lot of static pressure fans it will perform any good.

Also ambient temps are the main factor because you can have the best cooling in the world but when you push the same hot air through it it aint gonna cool any better so keep that in mind









Ive heard some people have air conditioning units blowing air in to their case to run it ultra cool, i might try that some day too


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> Im running cpu/[email protected] and offset 0.125+, if anyone knows how much that is in volts i would be very happy cause i have no idea and no software will show the true cpu/nb volt, they all show stock at nb-vid: 1.188v!
> 
> I will try now to get my ram higher then it is now or lowered timings. Current ram is 2080mhz 9-11-10 1CR at 1.65v. I will google kingstons beast series 2400mhz ram if there is any and use those timings, and increase volt to 1.7v. At 1.65v my ram runs very cool when i touched them by my hands.
> 
> You guys that got your temperature lowered by adding cpu/pll voltage, at wich voltage do you run them? I have mine at 2.550v atm. And will adding volt to NB/PCIE/PLL do anything?
> 
> Finally what is this "HTref" you are talking about? Is it "fsb" or "bclk"? I know "HT" but i know by reading what you say that it isnt the HT link speed you are talking about.
> 
> I have my system stable now at: [email protected], HT [email protected], CPU/[email protected],ram 2080mhz 9-11-10 1CR.
> 
> I will now focus on finding out more about wich volt would benefit my system when it comes to "CPU PLL". So please you guys that got positive results from a higher "CPU PLL" volt and run a fx8350 can you share at wich volt you run it? And last, would i benefit anything by raising the volt to the "NB/PCIE/PLL"?


base vid -/+ your offset = what you are running roughly
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp3rtraxx*
> 
> You got a really nice oc going there m8
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice timings for 2400mhz and well all of it is nice. I only got one suggestion for you to try and thats to enter bios and try to get your "CR" command rate for your ram to 1 instead of 2. i think it may be able to handle it and it makes your ram a little faster. I had no sucess in ocing my ram to 2400mhz so i have to settle for 2080mhz and 9-11-10 and 1CR. I had the ram voltage up to 1.7volt without no sucess. And as you said before i cant either understand how you could lower your temps by -10c by adding volt to CPU/PLL. Ive read some about cpu/pll and it seems ppl gets around -5c infact :O But only some boards. And it seems you can get more stable by adding volt to cpu/pll and thats what i noticed as well by raising my cpu/pll to 1.695v i get stable easier. Im gonna Also ive read about when ppl raise cpu/pll ppl can lower there vcore 1 notch or so. I tried to lower my vcore without no sucess but i will copy your settings for cpu/pll and the nb/pcie/pll and then try to lower vcore 1 notch or get a little bit higher oc.


NB/PCIE/PLL is the 1.8v at stock iirc that is what stabilizes your FSB i have run it up pretty high but it does not help much past stock.

you ever notice when you put for example 300fsb and it shows 299? bump up this voltage does not take much .05-.1v and it will stablize
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> maybe your dead spot is 2600? not sure if you can push it to 2800 but it might boot after that. Might need better cooling at that point though. Could be wrong but might be worth a shot


i never have been able to get it stable but i have benched at 2800 it is possible but uggry results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Thnx m8 i appreciate it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i tried getting 1T but it was a no go i could not even boot, so i am fine with this, 2400 makes an huge difference when you transfer a lot of files and do a lot of winrar type of stuff other wise my 1866 with 8-9-9-24 timings felt a lot snappier in windows tho but in games everything loads a lot faster an most applications like RAM speed above timings so i am good with this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to PLL there is no way you can get 10c difference you can knock that ball out of the park now because that aint gonna happen man, the best i saw was like 4c difference and that is because you can lower the core voltage but that's it.
> 
> PLL allows more volts to the CPU and the same for the CPU/NB so to add more PLL you can lower the voltage to the CPU or CPU/NB.


i am so glad you can speak for everyones chip!~

please note i NEVER said i had 10c long term i did say when i first would hit prime up and it would hit 60c immediately and then FAIL i would stop and re do. did this several times. finnally with my same settings ADDED CPU PLL and after it went to 50c when prime started. take it for what you want.


----------



## Mega Man

also i have heard in my time on ocn that yoiu want less then 2.7v .... so 2.695 is ok


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> base vid -/+ your offset = what you are running roughly
> NB/PCIE/PLL is the 1.8v at stock iirc that is what stabilizes your FSB i have run it up pretty high but it does not help much past stock.
> 
> you ever notice when you put for example 300fsb and it shows 299? bump up this voltage does not take much .05-.1v and it will stablize
> i never have been able to get it stable but i have benched at 2800 it is possible but uggry results.
> i am so glad you can speak for everyones chip!~
> 
> please note i NEVER said i had 10c long term i did say when i first would hit prime up and it would hit 60c immediately and then FAIL i would stop and re do. did this several times. finnally with my same settings ADDED CPU PLL and after it went to 50c when prime started. take it for what you want.


Ty for explaining nb/pcie/pll voltage







Appriciated! And if you got your temps lowered by -10c after raising cpu/pll its a really nice result. My rig didnt get lowered temps but got more stable easier but i have cpu/pll at 2.695v. Should i increase it more? If so how much would you consider as a max to have it at?

"base vid -/+ your offset = what you are running roughly " Ty for explaining that as well


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Thnx m8 i appreciate it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i tried getting 1T but it was a no go i could not even boot, so i am fine with this, 2400 makes an huge difference when you transfer a lot of files and do a lot of winrar type of stuff other wise my 1866 with 8-9-9-24 timings felt a lot snappier in windows tho but in games everything loads a lot faster an most applications like RAM speed above timings so i am good with this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to PLL there is no way you can get 10c difference you can knock that ball out of the park now because that aint gonna happen man, the best i saw was like 4c difference and that is because you can lower the core voltage but that's it.
> 
> PLL allows more volts to the CPU and the same for the CPU/NB so to add more PLL you can lower the voltage to the CPU or CPU/NB.


Try looking at the Memory Subtimings. You might just need some Drive Strength to run your RAMS at 1T. I manually set those when doing mine.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Oh I've had it up over 2500mhz CPU-NB, but the Kuhler 620 just can't handle anymore. I'm running at 4.5ghz and its hitting 62-64C. Its still 30-31C here in Florida so my computer room stays fairly warm. I need to replace this motherboard and pick up a H100 and really crank it up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> So I bumped my CPU-NB up to the stock multi and with my 225mhz bus its running happily at 2475mhz. If I try going up to the 2600mhz multi I get no boot so I guess I'll either have to back off the bus overclock and use my multipliers or wait until I have better cooling so I can push my overclock higher. I don't want to use the CPU multi because that on-off-on BS this board does annoys me and I'm certain it will take out a drive someday.


Surprising!! My Silver Arrow can handle even 2670. IMHO, you just have to tinker things a bit. An improved VRM cooling might help. With my MOD VRM cooling, 4.8 is already at hand.









I'm glad







you guys tried out running your CPU-NB more than 2500. I'll post screens of different combinations I tested. Might be of a bit of a guide for the others.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> 
> My new stable setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And indeed there is a dead spot because when i was at 2400 profile it crashes on me after +-10 minutes of gaming and now i am gaming a lot longer and no issues whatsoever




Try using this parameters for your RAM to work at CR1. I can't go further on mine without tinkering these.









Very GOOOOODDDD NUMBERS INDEED







I envy you mate.







What's your RAM and Rated Speeds?

I wonder if this http://www.crucial.com/store/ProductMarketing_BallistixElite.aspx will work well with Visheras. 1866 9-9-9-27 at 1.5 volts. Might offer a lot of potential. You guys agree? I need some recommendation.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

If I select the 2400mhz setting for my CPU-NB even on a stock FSB I get the Aero issue. However the 2200mhz setting on a 225mhz bus gets me 2475 happily. If I keep upping the bus I can break 2500 and not get the Aero issue. I tried just skipping 2400mhz setting and went to 2600 on a stock fsb and got no boot.

I'm sure there is more there but seriously this little Kuhler 620 can't take anymore heat lol. That and this board is a turd that I have no clue how its still functioning, between my "flattening" mods, VRM heatsink solution and pulling a PCIE slot right off the thing.


----------



## mus1mus

I have tested different combinations on mine last night that I came up with 7 different combinations tested to work on Aida64 with shots of every test that I meant to post to show you guys that actual 2400 CPU-NB is not the dead spot. It's just the X12 or 2400 value on the BIOS. However I can't upload them today as I made a stupid mistake copying those pics into a flash drive and I cant see them in my flash drive! (CAN'T UPLOAD THEM AT HOME AS INTERNET SPEED SUCKS)!!! Arrgh. Anyway, those will be posted tomorrow. But to give you a glimpse, I tried using FSB values like, 229, 233,250,267. But those are for 1866 RAMs limited to run at max of 2133.

Those numbers might not work for you. But bottom line, things to be remembered are RAM speed, CPU-NB Multiplier, HT Link Multi, and Voltages. Keeping your CPU-NB and HT Link Multipliers equal is the best way to go since your CPU-NB cant work higher than the HT Link. HT Link also hold me back. For example at 267 FSB, I can't get my board to run on X11 HT Link. Also, at stock FSB, HT LINK should be set to X13 or 2600 maximum. X14 and I can't boot. Keep it at 2600 when trying 2600 CPU-NB and remember to up your CPU-NB VID and NB to at least +100 and 1.25 respectively.

That NB voltage, although some referred it to the BOARD NB, I'm getting a hunch it's related as well to CPU-NB. As I can't get mine stable without it bumped at high FSBs.

Sorry you've gone through a lot of those troubles mate. I can say I'm not happy with the board either. However, tinkering with it seemed FUN that while planning to purchase another board, I have this plan to MOD the board with better cooling and see how much juice can I get from it. I really believe your statement before about the BAD VRM Cooling on the board. Even with my MOD VRM cooling, I still get high temps off my VRMs when doing some tests.And looking at the VRM cooling on ASUS boards, you can really say GIGABYTE was way out of competition.

So I'm planning another MOD. To see if I can still push it further.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> 
> Try using this parameters for your RAM to work at CR1. I can't go further on mine without tinkering these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very GOOOOODDDD NUMBERS INDEED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I envy you mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's your RAM and Rated Speeds?
> 
> I wonder if this http://www.crucial.com/store/ProductMarketing_BallistixElite.aspx will work well with Visheras. 1866 9-9-9-27 at 1.5 volts. Might offer a lot of potential. You guys agree? I need some recommendation.


Thnx man









Well i have G.Skill RipjawsX 1866 8-9-9-24 1.5 volts.

If you have plans for new RAM i can highly suggest to get G.Skill because they are zo frecking awesome and mostly clock very well, also its good to have low voltage RAM because from what Ive heard it has more head room to spare.

I will try what you said later on and hopefully i will get that 1T timing


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I have tested different combinations on mine last night that I came up with 7 different combinations tested to work on Aida64 with shots of every test that I meant to post to show you guys that actual 2400 CPU-NB is not the dead spot. It's just the X12 or 2400 value on the BIOS. However I can't upload them today as I made a stupid mistake copying those pics into a flash drive and I cant see them in my flash drive! (CAN'T UPLOAD THEM AT HOME AS INTERNET SPEED SUCKS)!!! Arrgh. Anyway, those will be posted tomorrow. But to give you a glimpse, I tried using FSB values like, 229, 233,250,267. But those are for 1866 RAMs limited to run at max of 2133.
> 
> Those numbers might not work for you. But bottom line, things to be remembered are RAM speed, CPU-NB Multiplier, HT Link Multi, and Voltages. Keeping your CPU-NB and HT Link Multipliers equal is the best way to go since your CPU-NB cant work higher than the HT Link. HT Link also hold me back. For example at 267 FSB, I can't get my board to run on X11 HT Link. Also, at stock FSB, HT LINK should be set to X13 or 2600 maximum. X14 and I can't boot. Keep it at 2600 when trying 2600 CPU-NB and remember to up your CPU-NB VID and NB to at least +100 and 1.25 respectively.
> 
> That NB voltage, although some referred it to the BOARD NB, I'm getting a hunch it's related as well to CPU-NB. As I can't get mine stable without it bumped at high FSBs.
> 
> Sorry you've gone through a lot of those troubles mate. I can say I'm not happy with the board either. However, tinkering with it seemed FUN that while planning to purchase another board, I have this plan to MOD the board with better cooling and see how much juice can I get from it. I really believe your statement before about the BAD VRM Cooling on the board. Even with my MOD VRM cooling, I still get high temps off my VRMs when doing some tests.And looking at the VRM cooling on ASUS boards, you can really say GIGABYTE was way out of competition.
> 
> So I'm planning another MOD. To see if I can still push it further.


The best way for me to OC my rig is to go in to RAM settings and load the 2400mhz profile that gives me 257 FSB and no dead spots in multiplier.

HT is at 2827 close to stock because there is no gain in that with my current setup, and CPU/NB at 2570 and CPU at 5011mhz with PLL at 2.695 and CPU/NB PLL at 1.895.

I also noticed that my board can't do 300+ FSB but frankly who cares right? i mean why should i boot at that high FSB when i have my best settings at 257.

for OC your HT link it needs some volts too same like CPU/NB for example i have my HT at 1.2 volts but if you rung higher like 3085 orso you can try even 1.3 volts.

Keeping the CPU/NB under 2600 gives me no errors in Aero issues and other strange things and errors.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> The best way for me to OC my rig is to go in to RAM settings and load the 2400mhz profile that gives me 257 FSB and no dead spots in multiplier.
> 
> HT is at 2827 close to stock because there is no gain in that with my current setup, and CPU/NB at 2570 and CPU at 5011mhz with PLL at 2.695 and CPU/NB PLL at 1.895.
> 
> I also noticed that my board can't do 300+ FSB but frankly who cares right? i mean why should i boot at that high FSB when i have my best settings at 257.
> 
> for OC your HT link it needs some volts too same like CPU/NB for example i have my HT at 1.2 volts but if you rung higher like 3085 orso you can try even 1.3 volts.
> 
> Keeping the CPU/NB under 2600 gives me no errors in Aero issues and other strange things and errors.


You already got it to a point where others would just drop their jaws at and be envy at.














300+ FSB will no longer be available for you since you already run your RAM at 2400. 300 X 9 = 2700 for the CPU-NB, which is where you want it to be when have 2400 RAMS, but that's already too tricky IMO.

I could do a 320 to give 1866.. But like you said, it's already pointless.







HT Link OC is also Pointless on my board. Way TOOO HOOOT...lol If I can get better board cooling, maybe there's a point doing so. But Until then, high HT Link will just hold me back.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Thnx man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well i have G.Skill RipjawsX 1866 8-9-9-24 1.5 volts.
> 
> If you have plans for new RAM i can highly suggest to get G.Skill because they are zo frecking awesome and mostly clock very well, also its good to have low voltage RAM because from what Ive heard it has more head room to spare.
> 
> I will try what you said later on and hopefully i will get that 1T timing










Can't even get an idea where to buy those from where I'm from. 1866cl9 is all I could find. But,1866 8-9-9 at 1.5? That's already freaking awesome stock timings...How I wish I have those.









BTW, how much voltage those RAMS need to OC like that? If you don't mind.

2133 is the furthest I can get on mine. Without giving it more than 1.75 on a CPU-NB higher than 2400. But I guess my timings a lot to do with this. They maybe too tight for 2200..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You already got it to a point where others would just drop their jaws at and be envy at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 300+ FSB will no longer be available for you since you already run your RAM at 2400. 300 X 9 = 2700 for the CPU-NB, which is where you want it to be when have 2400 RAMS, but that's already too tricky IMO.
> 
> I could do a 320 to give 1866.. But like you said, it's already pointless.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HT Link OC is also Pointless on my board. Way TOOO HOOOT...lol If I can get better board cooling, maybe there's a point doing so. But Until then, high HT Link will just hold me back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't even get an idea where to buy those from where I'm from. 1866cl9 is all I could find. But,1866 8-9-9 at 1.5? That's already freaking awesome stock timings...How I wish I have those.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, how much voltage those RAMS need to OC like that? If you don't mind.
> 
> 2133 is the furthest I can get on mine. Without giving it more than 1.75 on a CPU-NB higher than 2400. But I guess my timings a lot to do with this. They maybe too tight for 2200..


It is pointless in a sense that it is not needed to OC the HT link when you only have 1 GPU but when you have 2 high end GPU's it could help some.

I don't now where you from LOL but you can order it online.

Yes i love my RAM too and i looked for it carefully when i bought it because i wanted the best performing 1866 with the lowest timings possible and these are the best i can get.

As for my OC i basically looked on their site and was looking for what standard 2400 timings and setting were and simply apply that in the bios and go like, what the heck?! its stable?! okay cool LOL

that is what basically happened to be perfectly honest.

i was referring to these: http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-19200cl11d-8gbxld

If you want outstanding RAM you should go for G.Skill sadly they don't have SSD's otherwise i would buy G.Skill SSD too that's how good they are


----------



## mus1mus

I'm from a Third-World Country. lol.

http://www.gskill.com/en/series/ssd for their SSDs.









You pretty much nailed it with your RAM choice. That's one of the things I never did when I purchased my components. I just get what I could get and did my research later.









I can't even run mine at 1866 9-9-9-27









But anyway, I'm getting a lot of bandwidth at 2133 cl9 at 1.7V and 2400+ CPU-NB. Not too bad.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm from a Third-World Country. lol.
> 
> http://www.gskill.com/en/series/ssd for their SSDs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You pretty much nailed it with your RAM choice. That's one of the things I never did when I purchased my components. I just get what I could get and did my research later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't even run mine at 1866 9-9-9-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But anyway, I'm getting a lot of bandwidth at 2133 cl9 at 1.7V and 2400+ CPU-NB. Not too bad.


Yep but they are based on the sand force controller and those are not the most reliable ones.

I ALWAYS do some research before i buy any components for my PC, Car or what ever, i always want the best for the buck









Not all people agree with me witsh is fine btw but if you do some research can prevent you from some headache or some expensive repairs or maybe your hole PC would simply not work.

I have plans for closed custom water loop, but i do a lot of research because there is a lot to learn about water cooling, some in the vishera thread said that stupid but those guys sooner or later screw up their system and not a while a go some fella was telling me something about water cooling and said that what i was doing wrong but he was the one that has to take his water cooling loop apart for like 4/6 times you know what i mean?









this is a man i follow a lot with his build logs:
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA

If there is anyone who knows about water cooling its this guy man, but to some on the other threads he is an idiot and its not a good way of getting information while i think its the best way to get information


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I have tested different combinations on mine last night that I came up with 7 different combinations tested to work on Aida64 with shots of every test that I meant to post to show you guys that actual 2400 CPU-NB is not the dead spot. It's just the X12 or 2400 value on the BIOS. However I can't upload them today as I made a stupid mistake copying those pics into a flash drive and I cant see them in my flash drive! (CAN'T UPLOAD THEM AT HOME AS INTERNET SPEED SUCKS)!!! Arrgh. Anyway, those will be posted tomorrow. But to give you a glimpse, I tried using FSB values like, 229, 233,250,267. But those are for 1866 RAMs limited to run at max of 2133.
> 
> Those numbers might not work for you. But bottom line, things to be remembered are RAM speed, CPU-NB Multiplier, HT Link Multi, and Voltages. Keeping your CPU-NB and HT Link Multipliers equal is the best way to go since your CPU-NB cant work higher than the HT Link. HT Link also hold me back. For example at 267 FSB, I can't get my board to run on X11 HT Link. Also, at stock FSB, HT LINK should be set to X13 or 2600 maximum. X14 and I can't boot. Keep it at 2600 when trying 2600 CPU-NB and remember to up your CPU-NB VID and NB to at least +100 and 1.25 respectively.
> 
> That NB voltage, although some referred it to the BOARD NB, I'm getting a hunch it's related as well to CPU-NB. As I can't get mine stable without it bumped at high FSBs.
> 
> Sorry you've gone through a lot of those troubles mate. I can say I'm not happy with the board either. However, tinkering with it seemed FUN that while planning to purchase another board, I have this plan to MOD the board with better cooling and see how much juice can I get from it. I really believe your statement before about the BAD VRM Cooling on the board. Even with my MOD VRM cooling, I still get high temps off my VRMs when doing some tests.And looking at the VRM cooling on ASUS boards, you can really say GIGABYTE was way out of competition.
> 
> So I'm planning another MOD. To see if I can still push it further.


yes any FSB oc means you need to up NB volts not because it has anything to do with CPU/NB but because FSB communicates with NB CPU/nb is just the imc which goes to the ram.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yep but they are based on the sand force controller and those are not the most reliable ones.
> 
> I ALWAYS do some research before i buy any components for my PC, Car or what ever, i always want the best for the buck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not all people agree with me witsh is fine btw but if you do some research can prevent you from some headache or some expensive repairs or maybe your hole PC would simply not work.
> 
> I have plans for closed custom water loop, but i do a lot of research because there is a lot to learn about water cooling, some in the vishera thread said that stupid but those guys sooner or later screw up their system and not a while a go some fella was telling me something about water cooling and said that what i was doing wrong but he was the one that has to take his water cooling loop apart for like 4/6 times you know what i mean?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is a man i follow a lot with his build logs:
> http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA
> 
> If there is anyone who knows about water cooling its this guy man, but to some on the other threads he is an idiot and its not a good way of getting information while i think its the best way to get information


yea taking my loop apart is a pain but i would not have it any other way my quad 7970s are maxing @ 43c and soon my VRMs/NB will be under water as well. water loops are fun i dont know why anyone would not want one. but be warned they are a hobby, not just a pc cooler


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes any FSB oc means you need to up NB volts not because it has anything to do with CPU/NB but because FSB communicates with NB CPU/nb is just the imc which goes to the ram.
> yea taking my loop apart is a pain but i would not have it any other way my quad 7970s are maxing @ 43c and soon my VRMs/NB will be under water as well. water loops are fun i dont know why anyone would not want one. but be warned they are a hobby, not just a pc cooler


I wasn't revering to you man and if i did it was nothing negative









Yeah i hear ya man its a pain but mostly a hobby and its not that difficult to install once you know what components to use, i have some in my mind and soon if i have the money i would buy them and make an build log of it









Most people are capable of putting hoses to the fittings and mount water blocks but there is a lot more to it than simply connect the hose to the hardware, for example always take the shortest route, use proper hose, use the right coolant, choose the right radiator for your usage etc etc.

I was doing some research and now i know where to look for and what coolant what radiator etc etc..
Sadly i cant find any water blocks for my UD5 but only for the NB but if i do i want for the VRM too.


----------



## hurricane28

Hey i have found your problem with that screen of yours Mega Man,

buy an DisplayPort to dual-link DVI adapter and you get 144hz









http://www.overclock.net/t/1358464/does-amd-support-144hz/10


----------



## mus1mus

TEST RESULTS!!!

This is gonna be long for guys wondering and saying they can't get past the 2400 CPU-NB mark. Guys that settle for the stock 2200 CPU-NB.

This is just to clarify some claims about the 2400 CPU-NB and why I'm saying it's not the Dead Spot rather, the X12 CPU-NB Multiplier that is.

All these tests max'd out at 4.8GHz with CPU-NB and CPU voltages at +0.100.. With 3 samples taken on each test. FSB values are indicated.

WARNING: I will not be held responsible for anything this will cause when trying them yourselves. LOL

First up, 2376 CPU-NB




That's not even the 2400 I am are saying!!








Right?





That's a low OC.








I'd figure you'd say that













You must've noticed, RAM timings changed with same RAM Speeds. Bandwidth lost there.
I did that to compensate for the RAM OC and to avoid crashes while doing the test.
Like I said, I kept my CPU and CPU-NB voltages the same for the sole purpose of showing you guys We can run higher CPU-NB than 2200.
Running it with higher CPU and CPU-NB voltages, and my cooler won't suffice.





Higher than 2500?





I know you meant HIGHER THAN THAT!!!








Why not do it the simpler way?
Here, I went directly to X13.





As you can see there, even when running with 2600 CPU-NB, bandwidth went down.
One reason is that, HT ref or BCLK or FSB never went up from stock of 200. But it's a sure fire way of doing a high CPU-NB.

Is the bandwidth better than what you can get from 2200?
You figure that out. I am not comparing them with this test.

What about a high OC and High CPU-NB?





And that's the highest I got. So far.

Take note though that while running the test, I encountered lock-ups. AIDA64 is good software when testing this. You just can't expect me not to fail right?
Especially when the software eats up all your bandwidth. CACHE and MEMORY at least.

So there you go guys. 2670 CPU-NB and I max'd out. Maybe because my voltages are too low. Or maybe my board limits me so.
But what I shown you, is that, it is possible to run your CPU-NB higher than 2200 and it's not the limit.









X12 or 2400 in the BIOS maybe a deadspot, but you can still get away with it.


----------



## BuZADAM

HI ALL

I have a gigabyte 990fxa-ud7 rev1.0 mb. Nowadays ı am thinking should ı change my mb asus croshaır formula z ..

whats yours opinion sould ı change or go head ud 7


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Can you pls show us your rig, in top right corner there is a option called "rig builder" choose that and start by showing us what you got. Then what is your purpose by maybe changing your ud7 mobo? the ud7 is a good mobo for lets say a fx8350. And if your purpose is to get as good overclock s you can do the ud7 is still a good choice and you could get a nice custom water loop instead of a new mbo. But lets start by showing us your current rig and let us know whats your purpose


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> TEST RESULTS!!!
> 
> This is gonna be long for guys wondering and saying they can't get past the 2400 CPU-NB mark. Guys that settle for the stock 2200 CPU-NB.
> 
> This is just to clarify some claims about the 2400 CPU-NB and why I'm saying it's not the Dead Spot rather, the X12 CPU-NB Multiplier that is.
> 
> All these tests max'd out at 4.8GHz with CPU-NB and CPU voltages at +0.100.. With 3 samples taken on each test. FSB values are indicated.
> 
> WARNING: I will not be held responsible for anything this will cause when trying them yourselves. LOL
> 
> First up, 2376 CPU-NB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's not even the 2400 I am are saying!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a low OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd figure you'd say that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You must've noticed, RAM timings changed with same RAM Speeds. Bandwidth lost there.
> I did that to compensate for the RAM OC and to avoid crashes while doing the test.
> Like I said, I kept my CPU and CPU-NB voltages the same for the sole purpose of showing you guys We can run higher CPU-NB than 2200.
> Running it with higher CPU and CPU-NB voltages, and my cooler won't suffice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Higher than 2500?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know you meant HIGHER THAN THAT!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why not do it the simpler way?
> Here, I went directly to X13.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see there, even when running with 2600 CPU-NB, bandwidth went down.
> One reason is that, HT ref or BCLK or FSB never went up from stock of 200. But it's a sure fire way of doing a high CPU-NB.
> 
> Is the bandwidth better than what you can get from 2200?
> You figure that out. I am not comparing them with this test.
> 
> What about a high OC and High CPU-NB?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that's the highest I got. So far.
> 
> Take note though that while running the test, I encountered lock-ups. AIDA64 is good software when testing this. You just can't expect me not to fail right?
> Especially when the software eats up all your bandwidth. CACHE and MEMORY at least.
> 
> So there you go guys. 2670 CPU-NB and I max'd out. Maybe because my voltages are too low. Or maybe my board limits me so.
> But what I shown you, is that, it is possible to run your CPU-NB higher than 2200 and it's not the limit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> X12 or 2400 in the BIOS maybe a deadspot, but you can still get away with it.


Those scores are great man they really are









Your last score is very good

Now compare to my score











you should get the same RAM man or Crusial balistics they clock very well too









Make sure it has low voltage like 1.5 volts and low timings and get 1866 than you are golden









BTW i saw a video on you tube and i could not help myself from laughing, i wanted to share this to you guys to take note that this guy cannot be trusted all the way








http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWgzA2C61z4


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I wasn't revering to you man and if i did it was nothing negative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah i hear ya man its a pain but mostly a hobby and its not that difficult to install once you know what components to use, i have some in my mind and soon if i have the money i would buy them and make an build log of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people are capable of putting hoses to the fittings and mount water blocks but there is a lot more to it than simply connect the hose to the hardware, for example always take the shortest route, use proper hose, use the right coolant, choose the right radiator for your usage etc etc.
> 
> I was doing some research and now i know where to look for and what coolant what radiator etc etc..
> Sadly i cant find any water blocks for my UD5 but only for the NB but if i do i want for the VRM too.


no you dont need to take the shortest route although it looks cleaner i prefer to have a rad in between my cpu/gpus for example. i didnt this time and my temps rose by about 5c on my gpus ( they never used to get over and barely near 40c now i am at 43c

rad is easy biggest you can and coolant distilled for starters
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hey i have found your problem with that screen of yours Mega Man,
> 
> buy an DisplayPort to dual-link DVI adapter and you get 144hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1358464/does-amd-support-144hz/10


as i said a few times i already have both my DP ports populated. and 144hz works fine in win 8 but not in win 7 it is a software error gonna try a reinstall / refresh tonight
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> HI ALL
> 
> I have a gigabyte 990fxa-ud7 rev1.0 mb. Nowadays ı am thinking should ı change my mb asus croshaır formula z ..
> 
> whats yours opinion sould ı change or go head ud 7


depends you will probably have a easier time clocking on CVFz but if you are going for quad then ud7, otherwise the ud7 is a good board but i dont think rev 1 has llc. which is just a learning curve


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Those scores are great man they really are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your last score is very good
> 
> Now compare to my score
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you should get the same RAM man or Crusial balistics they clock very well too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure it has low voltage like 1.5 volts and low timings and get 1866 than you are golden
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW i saw a video on you tube and i could not help myself from laughing, i wanted to share this to you guys to take note that this guy cannot be trusted all the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWgzA2C61z4


Those scores are nothing compared to yours mate.








And I cannot even make it my daily set-up. I really can't go ahead until I secure my board cooling.

That guys is paid by Intel to do his VIDEOS. Ever wonder why his perception to AMD Vishera's were too harsh? LOL

I must also point out that I only show my scores to show other guys that we can get around some DEAD SPOTS on the CPU-NB.
If I can get a chance, I'll post my score on a X12 CPU-NB. That man, I can say, can get close to your current score. But that aint stable. LOL.
Though, I can Bench on it to post a decent score on HyperPI and Wprime.

If only X12 is does'nt have a bug, I'm sure everyone can pull out huge numbers on the BANDWIDTH TEST.

By the way, I found one local store where I can get a Gskill RAM like yours.







for really cheap. That will be for my next build.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> depends you will probably have a easier time clocking on CVFz but if you are going for quad then ud7, otherwise the ud7 is a good board but i dont think rev 1 has llc. which is just a learning curve


I would also ask for some info on this.

Crosshair V Formula Z
Sabertooth Rev 2 Gen 3
GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 1.xx

Simple question, which can give the biggest potential? In terms of Overclocking and Overclocking Stability?


----------



## Mega Man

sabertooth in my experience and red1776 ( he reviews pc components ) has better power delivery ( more stable ) and can get the best clocks on without L2N i have benched @ 5.55 ghz on my saberkitty

http://hwbot.org/benchmark/hwbot_prime/

it is rock solid performer and nice features i loved all the temp sensors.

CVFz has tons of fan headers and near identical performance. and a few other fun features as well. i really enjoyed the rog link and found it very useful.

ud7 has been a pain in my but but relatively solid performer.

all 3 boards i can say i have put through hell and back. esp the saberkitty and CVFz just dont expect the CVFz to take a bath it does not like it ( haha ) i speak from experiance even when there is no power on the board.

saberkitty has the least vdrop and CVFz has some, even on the ram, which is not a problem just know that going in. either of these boards will take some time to get used to the bios features.

all 3 are high end boards and even red who has extensive knowledge of all the boards got a 100mhz difference between the 3 which is not bad. you just need to know what you are doing


----------



## tuso

My old Ga-990FXA-UD3 v1.2 died







and my insurance company replaced it with the new Ga-990FXA-UD3 v3.0.

Ga-990FXA-UD3 v3.0 with my new Fx-8320 I have a lot of problems with the temps. When the 8 cores run 100%, the CPU temp increase, around 72ºC is very terrible, the bios start beep and I power off quickly the computer because CPU Temp increase amazing.
I replaced several times paste and the cooler but does the same.

I tried with my old Phenom 965 x4 and Ga-990FXA-UD3 v3.0, the CPU temps are correct never past of 60ºC.

I sent mail to Gigabyte support and I am waiting the answer.

My vcore is 1.344 v - 1.356v in my FX-8320 and the CPU temp increase about 72ºC.

What are your temperatures with FX- processors ?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Those scores are nothing compared to yours mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I cannot even make it my daily set-up. I really can't go ahead until I secure my board cooling.
> 
> That guys is paid by Intel to do his VIDEOS. Ever wonder why his perception to AMD Vishera's were too harsh? LOL
> 
> I must also point out that I only show my scores to show other guys that we can get around some DEAD SPOTS on the CPU-NB.
> If I can get a chance, I'll post my score on a X12 CPU-NB. That man, I can say, can get close to your current score. But that aint stable. LOL.
> Though, I can Bench on it to post a decent score on HyperPI and Wprime.
> 
> If only X12 is does'nt have a bug, I'm sure everyone can pull out huge numbers on the BANDWIDTH TEST.
> 
> By the way, I found one local store where I can get a Gskill RAM like yours.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for really cheap. That will be for my next build.


Ye i am very happy with my scores man









I only show them not because to bash on you or others but i am happy it works all fine for daily setup









this is my 24/7 setup and to be honest when i added CPU/NB and CPU PLL my CPU does run cooler for like 6c difference under full load and that is a lot for only adding PLL.

Yes that guy is sooo many times debunked, sometimes he has good reviews but he is so getting payed by Asus, corsair and intel you can totally tell by his reviews and the way he talks.

RAM mhz does not matter much?! hmm he has no clue what he is talking about LOL

You can tweak it more to become stable, adding more volts more PLL maybe.

and you definitely should get hat RAM man i am sure you don't regret it


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ye i am very happy with my scores man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only show them not because to bash on you or others but i am happy it works all fine for daily setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this is my 24/7 setup and to be honest when i added CPU/NB and CPU PLL my CPU does run cooler for like 6c difference under full load and that is a lot for only adding PLL.
> 
> Yes that guy is sooo many times debunked, sometimes he has good reviews but he is so getting payed by Asus, corsair and intel you can totally tell by his reviews and the way he talks.
> 
> RAM mhz does not matter much?! hmm he has no clue what he is talking about LOL
> 
> You can tweak it more to become stable, adding more volts more PLL maybe.
> 
> and you definitely should get hat RAM man i am sure you don't regret it


I can tweak it more mate. It's just that I can't dedicate my time unto it right now. And like I said I'm more focused on getting better cooling before pushing things further. I don't feel bad about you showing your score mate. I'm glad you found it. Your sweet spot. Besides, I can get something from what you are showing. But I envy you mate. REALLY.







lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> My old Ga-990FXA-UD3 v1.2 died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and my insurance company replaced it with the new Ga-990FXA-UD3 v3.0.
> 
> Ga-990FXA-UD3 v3.0 with my new Fx-8320 I have a lot of problems with the temps. When the 8 cores run 100%, the CPU temp increase, around 72ºC is very terrible, the bios start beep and I power off quickly the computer because CPU Temp increase amazing.
> I replaced several times paste and the cooler but does the same.
> 
> I tried with my old Phenom 965 x4 and Ga-990FXA-UD3 v3.0, the CPU temps are correct never past of 60ºC.
> 
> I sent mail to Gigabyte support and I am waiting the answer.
> 
> My vcore is 1.344 v - 1.356v in my FX-8320 and the CPU temp increase about 72ºC.
> 
> What are your temperatures with FX- processors ?


Don't expect your stock cooler to do you something good I should say. If you can hear beeping, then something must be hitting the temp boarders. Get a better cooler. At 1.344-1.356, there's nothing else to blame but your cooler IMO.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sabertooth in my experience and red1776 ( he reviews pc components ) has better power delivery ( more stable ) and can get the best clocks on without L2N i have benched @ 5.55 ghz on my saberkitty
> 
> http://hwbot.org/benchmark/hwbot_prime/
> 
> it is rock solid performer and nice features i loved all the temp sensors.
> 
> CVFz has tons of fan headers and near identical performance. and a few other fun features as well. i really enjoyed the rog link and found it very useful.
> 
> ud7 has been a pain in my but but relatively solid performer.
> 
> all 3 boards i can say i have put through hell and back. esp the saberkitty and CVFz just dont expect the CVFz to take a bath it does not like it ( haha ) i speak from experiance even when there is no power on the board.
> 
> saberkitty has the least vdrop and CVFz has some, even on the ram, which is not a problem just know that going in. either of these boards will take some time to get used to the bios features.
> 
> all 3 are high end boards and even red who has extensive knowledge of all the boards got a 100mhz difference between the 3 which is not bad. you just need to know what you are doing


SaberKitty it is then. Thanks for the input mate. I just can't get my brother in the direction beacause of the color scheme on the saberkitty. But since you base it on your experiences, and others, I'd say I'm more likely pointing the saberkitty way in my next build.

Thanks
Thanks


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I can tweak it more mate. It's just that I can't dedicate my time unto it right now. And like I said I'm more focused on getting better cooling before pushing things further. I don't feel bad about you showing your score mate. I'm glad you found it. Your sweet spot. Besides, I can get something from what you are showing. But I envy you mate. REALLY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Don't expect your stock cooler to do you something good I should say. If you can hear beeping, then something must be hitting the temp boarders. Get a better cooler. At 1.344-1.356, there's nothing else to blame but your cooler IMO.
> SaberKitty it is then. Thanks for the input mate. I just can't get my brother in the direction beacause of the color scheme on the saberkitty. But since you base it on your experiences, and others, I'd say I'm more likely pointing the saberkitty way in my next build.
> 
> Thanks
> Thanks


Good man, you can doo eeet









What cooling you are revering to? air cooing, water loop or closed water loop?

For te price my H100I cools pretty good in push/pull but h110 should cool little better because that is an 280 rad.

Actually its all on your ambient temp to be honest, if your ambient temp is high there is no cooler with a rad or a fan that cools it that great, i saw once a guy hooked a airconditioner to the front of his case and get significant cooling from it i would like to try too









I ask my brother in law if i can borrow his and try and if that makes such an big difference maybe i buy one myself


----------



## tuso

I think, the problem is not the cooler (Coolermaster hyper 212 evo) :

- Ga-990FXA-UD3 (v3.0) + Phenom 955 4.1ghz Vcore : 1.456 v ----> Full 60ºC
- Ga-990FXA-UD3 ( v3.0 + FX - 8320 4.4 ghz Vcore: 1.356 v

> Full > 72ºC









You can seee, the FX with minus Vcore is more hotter than Phenom with more Vcore.









I


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> I think, the problem is not the cooler (Coolermaster hyper 212 evo) :
> 
> - Ga-990FXA-UD3 (v3.0) + Phenom 955 4.1ghz Vcore : 1.456 v ----> Full 60ºC
> - Ga-990FXA-UD3 ( v3.0 + FX - 8320 4.4 ghz Vcore: 1.356 v
> 
> > Full > 72ºC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can seee, the FX with minus Vcore is more hotter than Phenom with more Vcore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I


Well that FX has twice the number of cores. So it must be hotter.


----------



## mus1mus

MOBO cooling mate. The VRM and NB need some attention. I already made some tweaks on my VRMs and that me to achieve higher stable clocks. However I can still feel them getting too hot at 4.8. I'm getting a bigger heatsink for the VRMs. Watercooling isn't on my list yet. I don't feel like it's necessary for my MOBO TBH. I'm not really expecting much from this UD3 R3 anyway.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I can tweak it more mate. It's just that I can't dedicate my time unto it right now. And like I said I'm more focused on getting better cooling before pushing things further. I don't feel bad about you showing your score mate. I'm glad you found it. Your sweet spot. Besides, I can get something from what you are showing. But I envy you mate. REALLY.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> Don't expect your stock cooler to do you something good I should say. If you can hear beeping, then something must be hitting the temp boarders. Get a better cooler. At 1.344-1.356, there's nothing else to blame but your cooler IMO.
> SaberKitty it is then. Thanks for the input mate. I just can't get my brother in the direction beacause of the color scheme on the saberkitty. But since you base it on your experiences, and others, I'd say I'm more likely pointing the saberkitty way in my next build.
> 
> Thanks
> Thanks


np ill see if i can dig up his review it is extremely through he has not been on a while do to some family stuff. ill do it when i get home
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> I think, the problem is not the cooler (Coolermaster hyper 212 evo) :
> 
> - Ga-990FXA-UD3 (v3.0) + Phenom 955 4.1ghz Vcore : 1.456 v ----> Full 60ºC
> - Ga-990FXA-UD3 ( v3.0 + FX - 8320 4.4 ghz Vcore: 1.356 v
> 
> > Full > 72ºC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can seee, the FX with minus Vcore is more hotter than Phenom with more Vcore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I


yes it is 212 = ~4.3-4.5ghz max it cant handle the heat maybe it used to but .... how many settings do you have on auto ?


----------



## Mega Man

Found it!

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/asus_sabertooth990fx_r2_review/

how you enjoy


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> I think, the problem is not the cooler (Coolermaster hyper 212 evo) :
> 
> - Ga-990FXA-UD3 (v3.0) + Phenom 955 4.1ghz Vcore : 1.456 v ----> Full 60ºC
> - Ga-990FXA-UD3 ( v3.0 + FX - 8320 4.4 ghz Vcore: 1.356 v
> 
> > Full > 72ºC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can seee, the FX with minus Vcore is more hotter than Phenom with more Vcore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I


The FX just runs hotter. I currently run my 8350 on a hyper 212 evo at 1.392v 4.3ghz. I can do 4.4 and 4.5 but its not stable enough for me but I also have high LLC with some vboost.

the power the phenom puts out at that volts is still not as much as a 8320/8350 does even at lower voltages.

Do like me, I am about to buy a noctua NH-D14







. Most double tower coolers are pretty much whats required for FX-8xxx series processors if you plan on overclocking. Otherwise will have to go to water. The new FX-9xxx series processors require a minimum of a double tower just to run at stock. Air coolers are having a tough time keeping up with processor power. Lots of people having trouble cooling I5 and I7 processors with the hyper 212 aswell. Its just getting old and just isn't good enough anymore







. Gotta go bigger if you wanna go bigger


----------



## Recr3ational

Hey guys,
I have the UD5 and FX 8350.

Recently I added a custom loop in, and because there's no LLC on a rev 1.
My overclocks are well unstable.
How do I compensate vdroop without LLC?
This is the first time building a rig so I hope one of you veterans can help me.


----------



## dmfree88

You add alot of volts to compensate. You will want it to droop down to a stable voltage. So it will have to be very high in order to achieve high clocks.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> You add alot of volts to compensate. You will want it to droop down to a stable voltage. So it will have to be very high in order to achieve high clocks.


That's the thing I was worried about, I don't really want to go higher than 1.55 as I got told it's the maximum the 8350 should do.

At 1.55 I think maximum i can go is around 4.6. So it's pointless me adding a loop.


----------



## dmfree88

shoulda got rev 1.1










I am sure it would be ok to push further then that. then you would just need to turn on whichever power saving feature drops vcore during idle. Then really it would hardly ever be that high anyways since under load it would droop and while at idle it would drop aswell.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> That's the thing I was worried about, I don't really want to go higher than 1.55 as I got told it's the maximum the 8350 should do.
> 
> At 1.55 I think maximum i can go is around 4.6. So it's pointless me adding a loop.


there are a lot of story's about the max voltage of the 8350 also about temps there are a lot of crazy story's and i want to make something clear.

1.55 is not the max voltage of that chip and those who say that has no clue on what they are talking about clean and clear









i called AMD some time ago and they said that it has nothing to do with voltage but the temperature of the chip.

the max threshold of these chips is 90c and at that temp it shuts down to prevent damage to the chip, the max 24/7 varies from chip to chip but AMD advised to stay under 65c for 24/7 usage









For short periods of time the chip can handle 70+ but that is only for benching or for short periods of time.


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> there are a lot of story's about the max voltage of the 8350 also about temps there are a lot of crazy story's and i want to make something clear.
> 
> 1.55 is not the max voltage of that chip and those who say that has no clue on what they are talking about clean and clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i called AMD some time ago and they said that it has nothing to do with voltage but the temperature of the chip.
> 
> the max threshold of these chips is 90c and at that temp it shuts down to prevent damage to the chip, the max 24/7 varies from chip to chip but AMD advised to stay under 65c for 24/7 usage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For short periods of time the chip can handle 70+ but that is only for benching or for short periods of time.


Well sir.
Thanks for that, temps not an issue really, you've saved me a lot of money.








Now I feel safe going over 1.55!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Well sir.
> Thanks for that, temps not an issue really, you've saved me a lot of money.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I feel safe going over 1.55!


YW man









Now you can push your 8350 even more









I do want to note that i am in any way not responsible for if anything goes wrong this information comes from AMD themselves so if you fry your chip its on you LOL

Happy overclocking and post some benchmarks of your performance and settings if you will


----------



## Recr3ational

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> YW man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you can push your 8350 even more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do want to note that i am in any way not responsible for if anything goes wrong this information comes from AMD themselves so if you fry your chip its on you LOL
> 
> Happy overclocking and post some benchmarks of your performance and settings if you will


+REP
Seriously man, thanks alot. I was just about to buy a rev 3 UD5.
Saved me some money, now it can go towards the gpu blocks









Thanks again. When i get everything stable, i'll post the results.


----------



## hurricane28

Thnx man









I hope we can compare our results soon









If you have any questions pls ask.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have the UD5 and FX 8350.
> 
> Recently I added a custom loop in, and because there's no LLC on a rev 1.
> My overclocks are well unstable.
> How do I compensate vdroop without LLC?
> This is the first time building a rig so I hope one of you veterans can help me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recr3ational*
> 
> That's the thing I was worried about, I don't really want to go higher than 1.55 as I got told it's the maximum the 8350 should do.
> 
> At 1.55 I think maximum i can go is around 4.6. So it's pointless me adding a loop.


it is not so much about exceeding 1.55v as hurr said it is about temps. however that would be 1.55 AT LOAD not idle

volts do not create heat. amps create heat. i can put 200k v through a wire @ .00001a and not get any heat @ 1+a that would be massively different, and amps are pulled from said device as it needs not pushed from the wall/power source. this is why when your system idles it consumes less amps then when @ load, your pc need more amps and pulls more.

if you need help ocing without llc i can easily point you to a few ppl.

basic thing to keep in mind. use occt ( monitoring ) or hwinfo or w.e. ( do not recommend using hwmonitor as it is known to be buggy on amds ) throw prime up and see what your volts goto that is your voltage after vdrop and what you need to worry about. i would not push 1.65+v though even if i had the head room for extended periods of time

several of us have taken our chips to thermal shutdown a few times and ours are not hurt in any way. that said dont stress your pc @~ 5.1+ghz ( without a golden chip ) and you will be fine
lastly be prepared there are voltage walls that increase exponentially @ 4.7,4.8,4.9....... ect ect

please let us know if you need ANY HELP !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> there are a lot of story's about the max voltage of the 8350 also about temps there are a lot of crazy story's and i want to make something clear.
> 
> 1.55 is not the max voltage of that chip and those who say that has no clue on what they are talking about clean and clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i called AMD some time ago and they said that it has nothing to do with voltage but the temperature of the chip.
> 
> the max threshold of these chips is 90c and at that temp it shuts down to prevent damage to the chip, the max 24/7 varies from chip to chip but AMD advised to stay under 65c for 24/7 usage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For short periods of time the chip can handle 70+ but that is only for benching or for short periods of time.


so your saying amd does not know what they are talking about?
http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf (second to last page )

however this very clearly states ON AIR


----------



## tuso

Thanks friends,









for about yours recomendations. Now playing at games (crysis 2) the max temp is 50ºC. I leave so. Yes Crysis 2 , does not use 8 cores. When play BF3 or Crysis 3 I will check the temps.

My configurations for to help to people:

CPU : 4.420 mhz
Vcore: 1.33-134 v
CPU-NB: X + 0.100v
HT Link: 2.600Mhz
NB Link:2.600Mhz
Memory: 1600Mhz (9-9-9-25 2T )

With this configuration my computer runs well


----------



## BuZADAM

@ Mega Man

are you recommend cfv -z over ud7 ? or am ı use ud7 ?


----------



## Mega Man

really up to you

CVFz is easier to oc imo

u8d7 has quad fire built in. i made mine work with a riser on my CVFz though


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is not so much about exceeding 1.55v as hurr said it is about temps. however that would be 1.55 AT LOAD not idle
> 
> volts do not create heat. amps create heat. i can put 200k v through a wire @ .00001a and not get any heat @ 1+a that would be massively different, and amps are pulled from said device as it needs not pushed from the wall/power source. this is why when your system idles it consumes less amps then when @ load, your pc need more amps and pulls more.
> 
> if you need help ocing without llc i can easily point you to a few ppl.
> 
> basic thing to keep in mind. use occt ( monitoring ) or hwinfo or w.e. ( do not recommend using hwmonitor as it is known to be buggy on amds ) throw prime up and see what your volts goto that is your voltage after vdrop and what you need to worry about. i would not push 1.65+v though even if i had the head room for extended periods of time
> 
> several of us have taken our chips to thermal shutdown a few times and ours are not hurt in any way. that said dont stress your pc @~ 5.1+ghz ( without a golden chip ) and you will be fine
> lastly be prepared there are voltage walls that increase exponentially @ 4.7,4.8,4.9....... ect ect
> 
> please let us know if you need ANY HELP !~
> so your saying amd does not know what they are talking about?
> http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf (second to last page )
> 
> however this very clearly states ON AIR


No but the most of us know that these chips can handle more voltage than 1.550 and can handle more than 62c, you know that Mega MAn


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> No but the most of us know that these chips can handle more voltage than 1.550 and can handle more than 62c, you know that Mega MAn


You're both right I should say. I myself have hit more than your so called "temp limit of 62 degrees". To be honest, throttle never happens before the chip hit 80 for more than a few seconds with mine. I even run mine with temps hitting 90s. But like Mega Man said, it's okay if it's just for benching.

Thermal shut down happened on me once. That's when I hit 89 right after doing a Cinebench CPU test. System shut down halfway the test. If you've been doing Cinebench, you'll know for a fact that even if you have Primed your chip, You'll hit higher temps when doing some rendering. That man, should be your concern. Gaming can't push your temps to the wall. Even if you've hit past 65 just to get your chip stable at let's say 5 GHz, you don't have to worry as long as you have already set your goal on the things you will be doing with your chip.

If your rig is involved with serious rendering, It's advisable to stay below that 65 degress wall when stabilizing your chip. As we know for the fact that rendering will push your chips past any Stress softwares out there.

If gaming is just your thing, you will never hit the temps you'll get with prime or whatever.

One thing to note too, people have been preaching about that temp limit for the chip. And one man already said this, "you've been preaching about that number (62 degrees I believe) to everyone, yet you also have the nerve to run your chip with Prime for 24 hours? or even just 7 hours? and say you never hit 62?, but how many degrees far from 62 were you for all those times? 5 degrees less? Let's be realistic people.

62 for sustained operation, the way my head understands this is that, at extreme cases, you should not run your chip past that temps for operations that require hours to complete. Temp spikes will always happen for a short time. But if it's sustained for hours, truly your chip will die. (assuming no thermal shutdown or protection causing your chip to throttle down happens)

"Also, voltage never create heat. Amperes or current do"??

Man you should also point that current is directly proportional to voltage and power. Power, my friend, is what gives you heat. You should not point out one and neglect the other.

P=VI ; it only happened that your voltage do not wander far from the setting you made. +- 0.1 volt at the maximum while your current depends on your load. But it's wrong to point out that current is the one creating your hight temp.

You also made a very EXAGGERATED example on how current and voltage relate to heat. 0.00001 Amp and 200 kilovolts would give you a power of what? 2 WATTS? that 2 watts my friend will not really give you enough heat.

what about the other way at same power. 2watts with 1 ampere as you said, will need just 2 volts. Can you say that at exactly the same power, increasing your current 10000 times will put out more heat when voltage dropped from 200K volts to 2 volts? NO!

In your example, assuming the voltage was keep the same at 200Kvolts, and current jumped to 1 ampere, MY FRIEND, your current jumped 10000 times. Don't you expect a 10000 times jump in power too? And 10000 times more heat?

Again, the other way around, 0.00001 ampers with 10000 times more voltage, are you saying the heat at increased current will be higher than when voltage itself went up at the same factor?









So give a more meaningful example my friend. At 1.55 volts and (assuming the chip handles or can pulls out 200 watts like it's rated TDP) again, assuming TDP=Power Draw (they are way too different that explaining this exactly will be longer than your screen can display), current draw will be =129.03 AMPS!!!

What if you experience Vdroop, and your voltage dropped from 1.55 to 1.50 volts, your current will rise to 133.33 AMPS!!! That's a 4.3 amperes increase. how much more heat will that give you? too small my friend.

That again is a problem. You see, in any electronic system, current draw is always limited by other components. And once your voltage drops, don't expect your chip to pull out the same amount of power or more current. Since voltage will NOT ever drop when there is plenty of current.

In your MOBO and CPU for example, If enough current can be drawn at low voltages, your chip will still run since it is assured that voltage will not drop off its value even when your chip will run on full horses. But because that thing never happens, you need to increase your voltages. Since other components limit the current draw. That will put out heat since voltages like I said, like current, is directly proportional to POWER.

Bottom line, POWER, VOLTAGE, CURRENT are all in a circle. But in an electronic system, current is the one limiting factor. That is why voltage has been given an option to be increased when power is needed.


----------



## Mega Man

no your wrong. on a few things

1 i gave a simple idea not trying to get more involved in it for a reason

2 your chip EXCEEDS the tdp on ANY OVERCLOCK.

3 VOLTAGE does not, never has and never will creat heat. amperage is the ONLY THING that does.

the only reason wires or anything is rated for voltage is to ensure the insulation it self will allow it to now jump through it.

that is why the same wire can be used for 12v or 600v i would love to go farther but unfortunately i would be late to work i would love to continue the discussion though.

i will add the "correlation" between them is that the more volts you have the less amps are needed for the same work

IE 1v +1a = 1w
2v+.5a =1w
but 2000v +0a =???? that is right 0w so NO HEAT ( again not talking about cpus as again i am trying to keep things SIMPLE )

and also Vdrop happens NO MATTER what size source you have.
ever turn on a vacuum or microwave and see your light dim? how much of a source or how much greater of a source do you think you have from the power company? granted it is lessens with more availability but it still happens, and in a pc you could have what ever size power source you want.
the VRMS will still have voltage drop as they are what matter NOT the power source. ( guess what i have a 1250w psu and usually have 2 of my gpus hooked to a 750w as well, still get the same vdrop even when running only CPU intensive programs ) or are you going to say 1250w is not enough ?


----------



## dmfree88

Just wondering but does anyone notice that the 3x powered usb seems to still charge a phone the same speed as a regular usb plug. I plug my phone into a 3x usb slot and it says slow charging and seems to charge at the same speed as the usb2.0 on the front panel. Aswell as the same speed as my old PC used to charge it at. Isn't it supposed to work better?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Just wondering but does anyone notice that the 3x powered usb seems to still charge a phone the same speed as a regular usb plug. I plug my phone into a 3x usb slot and it says slow charging and seems to charge at the same speed as the usb2.0 on the front panel. Aswell as the same speed as my old PC used to charge it at. Isn't it supposed to work better?


I do not charge my phone with my PC but it should work a lot faster indeed.

Did you download the driver? Also i heard it only works with Iphone but i could be wrong tho.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Just wondering but does anyone notice that the 3x powered usb seems to still charge a phone the same speed as a regular usb plug. I plug my phone into a 3x usb slot and it says slow charging and seems to charge at the same speed as the usb2.0 on the front panel. Aswell as the same speed as my old PC used to charge it at. Isn't it supposed to work better?


what phone
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I do not charge my phone with my PC but it should work a lot faster indeed.
> 
> Did you download the driver? Also i heard it only works with Iphone but i could be wrong tho.


no it works with ANYTHING. * that is compatible. i know it works with galaxy 2 and 3
however
1 some are software activated.
have you tried installing this ? i have had problems with it in the past and windows fair warning
http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/185/on-off-charge.htm
2 amperage is pulled NOT pushed and in the case of usb the device tells the pc how much amps to allow. maybe your device is not telling the pc to pull more amps
(amperage is what charges batteries)
meaning your device may not be able to be compatible with quick charging


----------



## taowulf

And so it begins....

I had a pic when Orthos was 17 hours in, but apparently got distracted while ordering a new monitor to replace the one that will not start up until the room is at least 70F..









UD3, rev 3, FC bios


----------



## dmfree88

phone is an optimus G from sprint. has been working pretty good for me ever since latest software update especially. But it always says slow charging maybe its just because its hooked to a PC but it still seems to be slower then the wall charger and takes seemingly just as long as my old PC.

Also on/off charge is not installed, but the phone will still charge while the PC is off.

Maybe I will try installing it and see if it helps. I am working right now but ill try later


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what phone
> no it works with ANYTHING. * that is compatible. i know it works with galaxy 2 and 3
> however
> 1 some are software activated.
> have you tried installing this ? i have had problems with it in the past and windows fair warning
> http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/185/on-off-charge.htm
> 2 amperage is pulled NOT pushed and in the case of usb the device tells the pc how much amps to allow. maybe your device is not telling the pc to pull more amps
> (amperage is what charges batteries)
> meaning your device may not be able to be compatible with quick charging


thnx for the info but i don't use my PC to charge my phone

Its only for putting music or films or other stuff on my phone.

i h ave the HTC one btw so it should be compatible


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Those scores are great man they really are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your last score is very good
> 
> Now compare to my score
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you should get the same RAM man or Crusial balistics they clock very well too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure it has low voltage like 1.5 volts and low timings and get 1866 than you are golden
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW i saw a video on you tube and i could not help myself from laughing, i wanted to share this to you guys to take note that this guy cannot be trusted all the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWgzA2C61z4


i have a favor to ask can you upgrade to the newest version of aida and re run the tests?


----------



## hurricane28

this is the newest version i believe.

But if there is a newer version i would like to hear and love to run it


----------



## hurricane28

got it











Strange that i get such a huge L3 cache drop and it does not matter if i use this aida or the previous one the results are the same.

someone can explain this to me why there is such an huge difference in each benchmark?


----------



## hurricane28

Never mind











Its the HT link that holds me back because the first run i did run the HT at 3083 and the next i did 2827 and now i did run it the same speed as the CPU/NB and it clearly gives me the most performance

so i learned now that its better to have the HT link at stock speeds or as the same speed as the CPU/NB to have the best performance


----------



## Mega Man

fair enough i appreciate it

edited spelling .....


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> fair i appriciate it


NP man









what do you think of these scores btw?

And to be honest i did not know that HT link had such an performance drop in L3 cache but i guess you did


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no your wrong. on a few things


Some people were just born to say, "you are wrong!"
Do you think you are right?
Quote:


> 1 i gave a simple idea not trying to get more involved in it for a reason


You sure got me involved. Not with the topic but because your claims were misleading.
And lesson here, Don't spark out an idea when you don't want to spark out involvement.
Quote:


> 2 your chip EXCEEDS the tdp on ANY OVERCLOCK.


That's a given scenario in an overclock isn't it? But what I said is an assumption. Not an example but assumption.
Quote:


> 3 VOLTAGE does not, never has and never will create heat. amperage is the ONLY THING that does.


From the time most of us people were born, Amperage, which came from the word Ampere, the unit of electrical flow, is no longer referred to as Amperage in Educated Circle. But Current. Take note of that man.
Quote:


> the only reason wires or anything is rated for voltage is to ensure the insulation it self will allow it to not jump through it.
> 
> that is why the same wire can be used for 12v or 600v i would love to go farther but unfortunately i would be late to work i would love to continue the discussion though.


Valid point. However some common sense dictates that if a wire can be used with a 600V voltage, it does follow that you can use it with lower voltages. isn't it?

Quote:


> i will add the "correlation" between them is that the more volts you have the less amps are needed for the same work
> 
> IE 1v +1a = 1w
> 2v+.5a =1w
> but 2000v +0a =???? that is right 0w so NO HEAT ( again not talking about cpus as again i am trying to keep things SIMPLE )


Simply shows how little you know about the subject. So before you quote me and say that "I am wrong again", do read some stuff will ya?

I have no idea where on earth has that equation came from but man, like I said don't count out one (voltage) from the equation.

P (Power) is equal to the product of Voltage(V) and the Current (I) 1. it can provide (for Power Supplies), and 2.) Current a load can absorb or carry (For the LOAD) . Take note, it's also indicated by a letter (I) on every equation on any book you can read.

P= VI ; with voltage and current; Voltage multiplied by resistance.
P=(I^2)R (for the Load or any Internal Resistance a PSU has.) Current squared multiplied by resistance.
P=( V^2) / R ( for the Load with given Voltage and Load Resistance) Voltage squared divided by resistance.

These equations are for a Direct Current (DC) Circuit as it's simpler to understand. AC or Alternating Current circuits are way too different and involves more variables. Explanation will be far too long you'd be better off going back to school and getting a degree in Electronics and Electrical Engineering.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Direct_current
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternating_current

For example, A 12-Volt PSU with a Current rating of 100 Amperes is thus rated as 1200 W PSU.
And a DC Bulb, for example is rated at 110 Volts with a power rating of 500 Watts, thus takes or will require a Current of 4.545 Amperes to be fully lit. By the equations given, we can say that the bulb has a resistance of 24.2 Ohms.
Quote:


> but 2000v +0a =???? that is right 0w so NO HEAT ( again not talking about cpus as again i am trying to keep things SIMPLE )


You also need to work on your Mathematics my friend as never has it been proven that any Number when added to 0 Zero will yield a Zero Value.
If you know things about computers then you could say that 1+0 will only be 0 when talking about Logic Circuits. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logic_gate
NOR and XNOR Logic.

Going back to the Topic, Let me give you an example.
0 current is impossible, never happens, and never will. You see even air conducts. And thus can have Current. They maybe too small, but at elevated Voltages, thousands of Volts, Air will still conduct.
Thus this happens; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_arc or this, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lightning
Can you say that a lightning is not hot? Or arcing is not too? Those happens at very little Current Flow due to the fact that the only Conductor present is Air. Or Ionized Air in the case of a lightning. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionization_energy Ionization energy is clearly indicated as Electron Volts (eV) there.

Those were just examples why you can't count out voltages when you talk about heat. Have you ever been to a Telecommunications antenna? The big ones? Or a Radar Facility? Surely I can't say that heat build up experienced on those facilities were because of voltages but mind you, Electricity is an Electromagnetic Wave. And even with a slightest conductance, they are travelling. Little conductance means less Current.

Or to be more REALISTIC, Take an Incandescent Bulb for example. Rated at 220 Volts and 100 Watts or 110 Volts and 200 Watts. How much Current do they require? 0.4545 and 1.8 Amperes respectively. But do they heat up? Absolutely yes! And those with just less than 2 Amperes each.

The first Generation Electronic devices, Vacuum tubes http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_tube as another example, If you were already alive or has used them in your life, You'd know for sure that they operate at high Voltages and very little Current. Do they heat up? Yes! Aside from the fact that they have Filaments for heating up or energizing those ELECTRONS http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electron , electron movement alone cause more heat than the filaments themselves.
Quote:


> and also Vdrop happens NO MATTER what size source you have.
> ever turn on a vacuum or microwave and see your light dim? how much of a source or how much greater of a source do you think you have from the power company? granted it is lessens with more availability but it still happens, and in a pc you could have what ever size power source you want.


Those are Inrush Current http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current. And not because your equipment consumes that much power. A valid point on Voltage Drop is when under normal operation, without that inrush current anymore, your device sucks up more current than what is available. Short Circuit is an example. Current max'd out that virtually your Voltage goes to Zero. Again, Virtually.

Another example, Traditional Wielding Machines using Step-Down Transformers. At full wield application, the secondary of the transformer is almost shorted to each other. Thus current is very high. And thus suck up high power as a result.

Another example, Very big electric motors. even without the inrush current phenomenon, they suck up too much power when starting as those electric motors have starting coils or windings that are way bigger than their operating or running windings.

Also, Powerful Audio amplifiers can create Voltage drops. Stack up 10 or more 1000 Watts power amplifiers properly. Load them with Properly Big Loudspeakers for Bass and play out a Bass oriented Music. Again that still fall to normal operation since they are made for that. At huge amplitude bass, your Voltages at the mains or your power outlets will drop.

Quote:


> the VRMS will still have voltage drop as they are what matter NOT the power source. ( guess what i have a 1250w psu and usually have 2 of my gpus hooked to a 750w as well, still get the same vdrop even when running only CPU intensive programs ) or are you going to say 1250w is not enough ?


Power delivery like I said depends on the VRMs and other components on the motherboard. It's not directly related to your PSU. That is because at an Overclocked scenario, You power requirement like you said, exceeds the power design. In that case, exceeds the Motherboard's Power delivery design. And Not specifically on the PSU side.

So when running a CPU-Only intensive programs, you are reading you're voltages at the CPU side. Right? Of course the CPU Core voltages will drop since it the CPU you are using on full power. Have you tried getting a reading on other RAILS? Your PSU has a 12V, -12V ,3.3V, 5V, 5V Vsb and so on. Now, I f running your rig at full power, and all of those rails or at least some of them drop from their normal or rated values, then it is CERTAIN that your PSU is the one to blame.
Quote:


> 2 of my gpus hooked to a 750w as well


I will no longer comment on this as this your preferred set-up. You took the risk. And if some mess happens with your set-up, you only have your self to blame. All I wanna say is that, Running a system with two PSUs is not recommended. Not because One is enough, or anything. But because there is a danger when running a single equipment with two different power supplies not having the same reference point.

You surely has a long way to go with regards to these mate.

But these, all I said is not to bash you off your statement. I'm in fact helping you in to the right direction. Don't fret.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Some people were just born to say, "you are wrong!"
> Do you think you are right?
> You sure got me involved. Not with the topic but because your claims were misleading.
> And lesson here, Don't spark out an idea when you don't want to spark out involvement.
> That's a given scenario in an overclock isn't it? But what I said is an assumption. Not an example but assumption.
> From the time most of us people were born, Amperage, which came from the word Ampere, the unit of electrical flow, is no longer referred to as Amperage in Educated Circle. But Current. Take note of that man.
> Valid point. However some common sense dictates that if a wire can be used with a 600V voltage, it does follow that you can use it with lower voltages. isn't it?
> Simply shows how little you know about the subject. So before you quote me and say that "I am wrong again", do read some stuff will ya?
> 
> I have no idea where on earth has that equation came from but man, like I said don't count out one (voltage) from the equation.
> 
> P (Power) is equal to the product of Voltage(V) and the Current (I) 1. it can provide (for Power Supplies), and 2.) Current a load can absorb or carry (For the LOAD) . Take note, it's also indicated by a letter (I) on every equation on any book you can read.
> 
> P= VI ; with voltage and current; Voltage multiplied by resistance.
> P=(I^2)R (for the Load or any Internal Resistance a PSU has.) Current squared multiplied by resistance.
> P=( V^2) / R ( for the Load with given Voltage and Load Resistance) Voltage squared divided by resistance.
> 
> These equations are for a Direct Current (DC) Circuit as it's simpler to understand. AC or Alternating Current circuits are way too different and involves more variables. Explanation will be far too long you'd be better off going back to school and getting a degree in Electronics and Electrical Engineering.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Direct_current
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternating_current
> 
> For example, A 12-Volt PSU with a Current rating of 100 Amperes is thus rated as 1200 W PSU.
> And a DC Bulb, for example is rated at 110 Volts with a power rating of 500 Watts, thus takes or will require a Current of 4.545 Amperes to be fully lit. By the equations given, we can say that the bulb has a resistance of 24.2 Ohms.
> You also need to work on your Mathematics my friend as never has it been proven that any Number when added to 0 Zero will yield a Zero Value.
> If you know things about computers then you could say that 1+0 will only be 0 when talking about Logic Circuits. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logic_gate
> NOR and XNOR Logic.
> 
> Going back to the Topic, Let me give you an example.
> 0 current is impossible, never happens, and never will. You see even air conducts. And thus can have Current. They maybe too small, but at elevated Voltages, thousands of Volts, Air will still conduct.
> Thus this happens; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_arc or this, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lightning
> Can you say that a lightning is not hot? Or arcing is not too? Those happens at very little Current Flow due to the fact that the only Conductor present is Air. Or Ionized Air in the case of a lightning. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ionization_energy Ionization energy is clearly indicated as Electron Volts (eV) there.
> 
> Those were just examples why you can't count out voltages when you talk about heat. Have you ever been to a Telecommunications antenna? The big ones? Or a Radar Facility? Surely I can't say that heat build up experienced on those facilities were because of voltages but mind you, Electricity is an Electromagnetic Wave. And even with a slightest conductance, they are travelling. Little conductance means less Current.
> 
> Or to be more REALISTIC, Take an Incandescent Bulb for example. Rated at 220 Volts and 100 Watts or 110 Volts and 200 Watts. How much Current do they require? 0.4545 and 1.8 Amperes respectively. But do they heat up? Absolutely yes! And those with just less than 2 Amperes each.
> 
> The first Generation Electronic devices, Vacuum tubes http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vacuum_tube as another example, If you were already alive or has used them in your life, You'd know for sure that they operate at high Voltages and very little Current. Do they heat up? Yes! Aside from the fact that they have Filaments for heating up or energizing those ELECTRONS http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electron , electron movement alone cause more heat than the filaments themselves.
> Those are Inrush Current http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current. And not because your equipment consumes that much power. A valid point on Voltage Drop is when under normal operation, without that inrush current anymore, your device sucks up more current than what is available. Short Circuit is an example. Current max'd out that virtually your Voltage goes to Zero. Again, Virtually.
> 
> Another example, Traditional Wielding Machines using Step-Down Transformers. At full wield application, the secondary of the transformer is almost shorted to each other. Thus current is very high. And thus suck up high power as a result.
> 
> Another example, Very big electric motors. even without the inrush current phenomenon, they suck up too much power when starting as those electric motors have starting coils or windings that way bigger than their operating or running windings.
> 
> Also, Powerful Audio amplifiers can create Voltage drops. Stack up 10 or more 1000 Watts power amplifiers properly. Load them with Properly Big Loudspeakers for Bass and play out a Bass oriented Music. Again that still fall to normal operation since they are made for that. At huge amplitude bass, your Voltages at the mains or your power outlets will drop.
> Power delivery like I said depends on the VRMs and other components on the motherboard. It's not directly related to your PSU. That is because at an Overclocked scenario, You power requirement like you said, exceeds the power design. In that case, exceeds the Motherboard's Power deliver design. And Not specifically on the PSU side.
> 
> So when running a CPU-Only intensive programs, you are reading you're voltages at the CPU side. Right? Of course the CPU Core voltages will drop since it the CPU you are using on full power. Have you tried getting a reading on other RAILS? Your PSU has a 12V, -12V ,3.3V, 5V, 5V Vsb and so on. Now, I f running your rig at full power, and all of those rails or at least some of them drop from their normal or rated values, then it is CERTAIN that your PSU is the one to blame.
> I will no longer comment on this as this your preferred set-up. You took the risk. And if some mess happens with your set-up, you only have your self to blame. All I wanna say is that, Running a system with two PSUs is not recommended. Not because One is enough, or anything. But because there is a danger when running a single equipment with two different power supplies not having the same reference point.
> 
> You surely has a long way to go with regards to these mate.
> 
> But these, all I said is not to bash you off your statement. I'm in fact helping you in to the right direction. Don't fret.


hate to break it to you i use ohms law on a daily basis. i also deal with heat and its transfer far more often then most.

i am an hvac tech. i will not continue to bring this argument in the lime light, when i said it i was in a very poor mood, and for bringing the poison into the thread i am sorry to all. i would like to deal with it with you in pms though. as i still feel your wrong


----------



## mus1mus

I have shown enough evidence to prove my point. Like I said, I don't mean to bash you off your point. But point granted, let's consider some facts on the subject.

Or do you want me to show further evidences showing the effect of Voltages to current? and Heat?


----------



## Mega Man

once again i will be glad i am working on the pm as we speak.


----------



## PimpUigi

Hey guys. I've got a Gigabyte GA-990FXA UD3 Revision 1.1
I have an FX-8350 CPU, and 8 GB's of DDR3 2400 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231665

I can't get the motherboard to let me boot at DDR3 2400 though. I can only get up to DDR3 2133.
Some help would be greatly appreciated. : )


----------



## mus1mus

Follow what you can see on Hurricane's Aida 64 FSB Value. He got a running 2400 RAM. He has a 257 FSB, CPU-NB at X10 or 2000 if that's what you can see in the bios. CPU-NB and HT Liink is BEST at the same values.

Enter your XMP Profile.


----------



## PimpUigi

Do I need to over volt anything if I do that?
Like, there's a lot of voltages for me to set.

NB volt...
NB/PCI-E/something Volt
CPU volt
Others?

I was able to post a 226 FSB and get DDR 2410, but then I couldn't boot into my OS.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PimpUigi*
> 
> Hey guys. I've got a Gigabyte GA-990FXA UD3 Revision 1.1
> I have an FX-8350 CPU, and 8 GB's of DDR3 2400 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231665
> 
> I can't get the motherboard to let me boot at DDR3 2400 though. I can only get up to DDR3 2133.
> Some help would be greatly appreciated. : )


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PimpUigi*
> 
> Do I need to over volt anything if I do that?
> Like, there's a lot of voltages for me to set.
> 
> NB volt...
> NB/PCI-E/something Volt
> CPU volt
> Others?
> 
> I was able to post a 226 FSB and get DDR 2410, but then I couldn't boot into my OS.


unfortunately gigabyte did not give us the multi to do 2400 at stock fsb.

you need to change fsb to some multiple of 2400, it does not have to babe perfect but close is ok. ie 2408 or 2398.
you need your cpu/nb (nb core) higher or equal to ram . you will need more volts as well, be warned cpu/nb volts add alot of heat, 1.2-1.3should be plenty. Also northbridge will probably need a voltage bump.

dont be surprised if vcore needs a bump too. this board for me vdrop on the ram. I keep mine set at 1.7.althogh I am about 0.5v too I like the safety buffer. let me if can be of any more help


----------



## hurricane28

Well i find out that faster RAM does not give you any performance.

Only in rendering or for AIDA64 scores and for benchmarking you see a difference but it does not gain any FPS in games or cinebench or whatever.

Like i said its ONLY good for benchmarking or if you do CPU intensive stuff like rendering or aftereffects.

I set mine back to 1866 with lower timings









Also FX chips don't like much faster than 1866 because the CPU/NB can't go high enough to keep up with the RAM speed.

For 2400 you need at least 3k on the CPU/NB for it to keep up, so if you under 3k don't bother because the CPU/NB can't keep up and your system is not very stable.

I say so because i did a lot of testing and honestly from overclocking the CPU/NB and RAM the only gain i got was an more unstable system and high benchmarks and very high temps but its not worth the gain in performance in my opinion.

so i back off to 1866 with tight timings


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Well i find out that faster RAM does not give you any performance.
> 
> Only in rendering or for AIDA64 scores and for benchmarking you see a difference but it does not gain any FPS in games or cinebench or whatever.
> 
> Like i said its ONLY good for benchmarking or if you do CPU intensive stuff like rendering or aftereffects.


Pretty much this, having RAM that high is only good for certain applications, if you're just gaming I would work on getting the best timings. The only time worth having RAM that high in gaming is if you're using an APU as you can see a pretty notable FPS jump. But of course you're not using APU.


----------



## goob

Few questions concerning the 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0

Background, started overclocking the board from first boot after the normal install of the typical software/benchmarks.

System
FX-6300 Corsair H60 cooling
990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 F2 bios dated 7/15/2013
G.Skill PC3-12800 (800Mhz)
Samsung 240 EVO
Sound Blaster Z
MSI Geforce 650 TI

Started overclocking with Multiplier only with 1.4 volts, was able to post windows at 4.9ghz with some fsb adjustments but Prime95 would fail. While not under load the volts were at 1.4v but would go up to almost 1.5v under load. I was concerned with pushing the volts more in order to get a 5ghz stable because of the voltage boosting under load.

After working with the current settings, i got 4.6ghz stable with these settings.
FSB 204mhz
CPU NorthBridge Frequency 2000mhz set to auto
HT Link Freq 2600mhz set to auto
Multiplier 22.50
System Memory Multi 8, speed 1632mhz
Core performance boost Disabled
C&Q Disabled
C1E Disabled
SVM Disabled
CPU Core Control Disabled
Core C6 Disabled
APM Disabled
CPU Vcore 1.4125V (CPUz shows 1.392 but increases under load)
Dram 1.515 (shows 1.5 in bios at that setting)
Rest voltage settings auto,
Vcore loadline Calibration Low

However, I think i can get 5ghz easy if the voltage was not boosting under load, when i first attempted overclocking, i set it to 1.45v as well but the temps went up quickly, and i noticed under load it was like 1.58v. Not sure what is causing this issues, but I am not a fan. I would like a static voltage, but haven't figure that out.

So, with those settings it was doing a strange, start up, then turn off, then start back up and boot. I set the bios to default settings and it fixed that issue. However, with stock settings I wanted to test out what is going on with this motherboard/cpu. Right now at stock bios settings and prime95 running this is what I'm seeing...

Voltage 1.122v-1.224v, cpu is going form 3ghz to 3.5ghz every few seconds. 15 multi to 17.5multi, it is not going to the 20.5 multiplier under load like it should be. 26.4c under 100% cpu load right now. Shouldn't this cpu be pushing the 20.5 under load? I am very much confused on what is going on with this motherboard/cpu setup.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goob*
> 
> So, with those settings it was doing a strange, start up, then turn off, then start back up and boot. I set the bios to default settings and it fixed that issue. However, with stock settings I wanted to test out what is going on with this motherboard/cpu.


The on/off/on thing will happen if you change the CPU multiplier, I guess Gigabyte didn't care to fix that issue on the new Revision, go figure.


----------



## goob

Those are my voltage readings, could my PSU be the issue?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goob*
> 
> Few questions concerning the 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0
> 
> Background, started overclocking the board from first boot after the normal install of the typical software/benchmarks.
> 
> System
> FX-6300 Corsair H60 cooling
> 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 F2 bios dated 7/15/2013
> G.Skill PC3-12800 (800Mhz)
> Samsung 240 EVO
> Sound Blaster Z
> MSI Geforce 650 TI
> 
> Started overclocking with Multiplier only with 1.4 volts, was able to post windows at 4.9ghz with some fsb adjustments but Prime95 would fail. While not under load the volts were at 1.4v but would go up to almost 1.5v under load. I was concerned with pushing the volts more in order to get a 5ghz stable because of the voltage boosting under load.
> 
> After working with the current settings, i got 4.6ghz stable with these settings.
> FSB 204mhz
> CPU NorthBridge Frequency 2000mhz set to auto
> HT Link Freq 2600mhz set to auto
> Multiplier 22.50
> System Memory Multi 8, speed 1632mhz
> Core performance boost Disabled
> C&Q Disabled
> C1E Disabled
> SVM Disabled
> CPU Core Control Disabled
> Core C6 Disabled
> APM Disabled
> CPU Vcore 1.4125V (CPUz shows 1.392 but increases under load)
> Dram 1.515 (shows 1.5 in bios at that setting)
> Rest voltage settings auto,
> Vcore loadline Calibration Low
> 
> However, I think i can get 5ghz easy if the voltage was not boosting under load, when i first attempted overclocking, i set it to 1.45v as well but the temps went up quickly, and i noticed under load it was like 1.58v. Not sure what is causing this issues, but I am not a fan. I would like a static voltage, but haven't figure that out.
> 
> So, with those settings it was doing a strange, start up, then turn off, then start back up and boot. I set the bios to default settings and it fixed that issue. However, with stock settings I wanted to test out what is going on with this motherboard/cpu. Right now at stock bios settings and prime95 running this is what I'm seeing...
> 
> Voltage 1.122v-1.224v, cpu is going form 3ghz to 3.5ghz every few seconds. 15 multi to 17.5multi, it is not going to the 20.5 multiplier under load like it should be. 26.4c under 100% cpu load right now. Shouldn't this cpu be pushing the 20.5 under load? I am very much confused on what is going on with this motherboard/cpu setup.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *goob*
> 
> 
> 
> Those are my voltage readings, could my PSU be the issue?


1
hw monitor has been known to be glitchy with amd use HWinffor64

2
change CPU/NB (NB core ) to 1.1v iirc is stock i know asus overvolted very very badly. and it helps temps if the board is overvolting ( you may need a few bumps up from there as you are ocing it.

bump up northbridge as well ~1.2v iirc

3
i dont know if it was fixed in rev 4 but for your oc settings to stick on rev 3 you have to enable HPC

hope this helps let me know if i can help any more


----------



## goob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> hw monitor has been known to be glitchy with amd use HWinffor64
> 
> 2
> change CPU/NB (NB core ) to 1.1v iirc is stock i know asus overvolted very very badly. and it helps temps if the board is overvolting ( you may need a few bumps up from there as you are ocing it.
> 
> bump up northbridge as well ~1.2v iirc
> 
> 3
> i dont know if it was fixed in rev 4 but for your oc settings to stick on rev 3 you have to enable HPC
> 
> hope this helps let me know if i can help any more


You sir just saved me a lot of money, was just about the pull the trigger on a new PSU


----------



## goob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> hw monitor has been known to be glitchy with amd use HWinffor64
> 
> 2
> change CPU/NB (NB core ) to 1.1v iirc is stock i know asus overvolted very very badly. and it helps temps if the board is overvolting ( you may need a few bumps up from there as you are ocing it.
> 
> bump up northbridge as well ~1.2v iirc
> 
> 3
> i dont know if it was fixed in rev 4 but for your oc settings to stick on rev 3 you have to enable HPC
> 
> hope this helps let me know if i can help any more


Ok rolling the overclock again, attached is the current state, 1.412v in bios for cpu. I set the Northbridge to 1.2v, however your CPU/NB to 1.1v, current bios says its at 1.16v.. so you want me to lower it correct? HPC enabled. Rest of the settings from above. Do I need to mess with...
CPU NorthBridge Frequency 2000mhz
HT Link Freq 2600mhz

Both set to auto... Thanks for your help man. I really think this cpu can hit 5ghz+ stable, just gota tweak this thing.


----------



## goob

Ok put the CPU in load for a bit, 1 last question...sensors PMBus VR, 69c, is that ok? are those in relations to the VRMs? whats the safe range for the temps on those things, i heard some have been having issues with these boards concerning the VRMs. Also you can see I'm hitting just short of 50c on the cpu, which isnt bad. Thanks again


----------



## glenquagmire

Hey all....

Just got the 990fxa-UD3 (rev 4.0). Installing the driver disc that came with the board. What should I install and not install? I want to OC the CPU and stuff. This is my first time with an aftermarket board and OC'ing. thanks for everyones help.....


----------



## Mega Man

welcome both of oyu you both should put a rig in rig builder ( upper right hand corner of this page ) and put it in your sig will make it much easier to help you .

as for the cpu/nb volts leave it stock but manually enter the setting so keep it 1.16. i am glad it helped !~ you cooling will really make or break your oc , if you are water cooling you need to put a fan on the VRM /nb Heatsink if not i still recommend to, does not have to be big and does not take alot of airmovement, i knwo several ppl who use 2x40mm fans and they work fine and you can control how fast they go so noise becomes not an issue

i dont know those 2 temps sorry ... i dont have your mobo so....

as the other question. dont install anything from the disk. if you want to do the ocing. get prime and hwinfo64 ( if you are using a 64bit os if not use hwinfo32 ) keep fore temp @ or under 62c ]

if the bios are like the rev 3 you will shut off cnq ( cool n quiet ) c1e c6 apm, and to activate your oc enable hpc , this is only for giga boards...... other boards dont have this problem. you will find gigas bios are a mess.

start with a multi only oc.

here is a good guide
it is for asus but the basics are still the same
http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/0_100

if i can find the others ill post links there.


----------



## glenquagmire

Lol looks I need to delete some stuff then. I went ahead and installed everything even the stuff I have no idea what it does. Please take a look at the screen shot and let me know are there things I should delete and why? Again I am am a book and want to learn. I plan to OC. This is for gaming and media center. I also have a 7950 gigabyte card.


----------



## Mega Man

you can keep what ever you want. but i would reccomend uninstalling it all and getting the latest @ gigabytes webpage for your mobo.

also get the latest drivers from amd for both chipset and gpu, you just have to download 1 thing and it will update both. catalyst 13.9 is latest and the latest beta is 13.10

but i would not use any software to oc just use bios


----------



## Hellsrage

If you're gonna play BF4 Beta, people a recommending the 13.10Beta drivers over the stable release. Just a thought.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> unfortunately gigabyte did not give us the multi to do 2400 at stock fsb.
> 
> you need to change fsb to some multiple of 2400, it does not have to babe perfect but close is ok. ie 2408 or 2398.
> you need your cpu/nb (nb core) higher or equal to ram . you will need more volts as well, be warned cpu/nb volts add alot of heat, 1.2-1.3should be plenty. Also northbridge will probably need a voltage bump.
> 
> dont be surprised if vcore needs a bump too. this board for me vdrop on the ram. I keep mine set at 1.7.althogh I am about 0.5v too I like the safety buffer. let me if can be of any more help


Not true m8,

I can set my RAM to 2400 just by setting the RAM profile to 2400 and it automatically it sets the volts to 1.65 only the timing i need to adjust manual.

For some chips or motherboards its better to do via FSB and others can handle 2400 just fine, it depends on the chip and mobo


----------



## Mega Man

i did forget to set the timings, but your telling me your board has the multi to do 2400 @ 200 fsb ? i can tell you the ud7 rev3 does not. i can do 2133 but anything more i have to fsb oc to get it


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i did forget to set the timings, but your telling me your board has the multi to do 2400 @ 200 fsb ? i can tell you the ud7 rev3 does not. i can do 2133 but anything more i have to fsb oc to get it


Yeah i can set the RAM profile to 2400 and it sets the voltage of the RAM to 1.65 but that's not 1.65 volts tho, i need to set it to 1.7 to get 1.65 volts..

Also i need to lower the timings and i have 2400mhz RAM stable









Strange that the UD7 does not have that option, its the revision probably because the UD5 and UD7 are basically the same boards.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Hey all....
> 
> Just got the 990fxa-UD3 (rev 4.0). Installing the driver disc that came with the board. What should I install and not install? I want to OC the CPU and stuff. This is my first time with an aftermarket board and OC'ing. thanks for everyones help.....


I think I depends on your OS. On windows 8.1 preview installing Easytune corrupted Windows OS and I had to recover to prior to that install. The version downloaded from the gigabyte site at least installs and runs, but I doubt its usefulness... so in conclusion, throw away the CD and install only stuff from the gigabyte site...


----------



## glenquagmire

I'm not sure what to keep. I know though I had to install the discount because it's what loaded my network driver to connect to the Internet. After the install can i go to the website to update everything?


----------



## glenquagmire

I have windows 7 ultimate. What is easy tune and are you saying delete it? What is the program that would be in place of it?

Remember I'm a noob to after market boards and Overclocking.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I'm not sure what to keep. I know though I had to install the discount because it's what loaded my network driver to connect to the Internet. After the install can i go to the website to update everything?


Download at least your network drivers to USB or whatever, then you'll be able to get online and windows will find a lot of the stuff it needs...


----------



## SavageBrat

Hi All,
Sorry for the noob question but I just upgraded my mb from the UD3 to the UD7, I was wondering if it ok for now as I'm running only 1 video card is it ok to place the card in the 2nd x16 slot as it really bunched up at the top,it's sitting really close to the upper heat sinks, or does it really matter. Tia.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Hi All,
> Sorry for the noob question but I just upgraded my mb from the UD3 to the UD7, I was wondering if it ok for now as I'm running only 1 video card is it ok to place the card in the 2nd x16 slot as it really bunched up at the top,it's sitting really close to the upper heat sinks, or does it really matter. Tia.


Hi and welcome man









No it does not matter, as a matter a fact i did put my GPU to the second slot as well because it was too close to the NB and that causes too much heat so i moved it.


----------



## SavageBrat

Cool..ty, as it is a tad close to everything in the top slot..


----------



## glenquagmire

Any advice here? I already downloaded the motherboard cd that came with it and installed everything. Should I delete certain things that I installed? There seems to be some programs installed. I want to OC the cpu.


----------



## mus1mus

The things you will need to be fully operational with your motherboard are the following:

Audio Drivers ( For your MOBO soundcard to work )
Network Card Drivers ( For you to be able to connect to the NET )
Chipset Drivers ( AMD Catalyst ) Get the Latest Beta Version from the AMD Site

Then USB Drivers ( I found out I can't get my USB 3.0 up front working without installing Catalyst )
You'd probably need to install Sata drivers as well. But not really a requirement. But if you do, AMD Catalyst will be required first.


----------



## glenquagmire

Here is what I have on my computer, tell me to delete or keep (these are Gigabyte Publishers and came with the MOBO Disk):

-Advanced Catalyst Install Manager
-Easy Tune 6
-Auto Green
-Update Manager
-On/Off Charge
-DMI View Ver 1.5
-BIOS
-Smart Recovery 2
-Face Wizard
-Q-Share V.2
-Gigabyte OC Guru II (Gigabyte 7950 GPU)
-Marvell 91.xx Driver

Via Technologies
-VIA Platform Device Manager
-Modify Registry V0.1

Realtek
-Ethernet Driver
-HDMI Audio
-High Def Audio


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Hi All,
> Sorry for the noob question but I just upgraded my mb from the UD3 to the UD7, I was wondering if it ok for now as I'm running only 1 video card is it ok to place the card in the 2nd x16 slot as it really bunched up at the top,it's sitting really close to the upper heat sinks, or does it really matter. Tia.


yes you can but you will suffer a small performance hit.
assuming you put it in the second x16 slot and not a x8/x4

it is not large. but it does not matter if the card is close to the heat sinks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The things you will need to be fully operational with your motherboard are the following:
> 
> Audio Drivers ( For your MOBO soundcard to work )
> Network Card Drivers ( For you to be able to connect to the NET )
> Chipset Drivers ( AMD Catalyst ) Get the Latest Beta Version from the AMD Site
> 
> Then USB Drivers ( I found out I can't get my USB 3.0 up front working without installing Catalyst )
> You'd probably need to install Sata drivers as well. But not really a requirement. But if you do, AMD Catalyst will be required first.


to my understanding stat drivers are for raid only ? and to be installed at windows install


----------



## Lowlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Here is what I have on my computer, tell me to delete or keep (these are Gigabyte Publishers and came with the MOBO Disk):
> 
> -Advanced Catalyst Install Manager
> -Easy Tune 6
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Software Overclock (not recommended
> 
> 
> 
> -Auto Green
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Save the planet (If you want extra power saving)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -Update Manager
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Not positive but some kind of update manager probably not nessecary
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -On/Off Charge
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Leave the usb ports on when computer is off to charge a phone
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -DMI View Ver 1.5
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> DMI Viewer provides a management tool for viewing motherboard hardware information. Not required
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -BIOS
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> @BIOS? BIOS update utility don't need it. If you need to update BIOS and want to use it install then uninstall.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -Smart Recovery 2
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Backup type software
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -Face Wizard
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> What is Face-Wizard™ ?
> Face-Wizard™ is a windows based utility with user-friendly interface that allows users to change the boot-up logo with picture from GIGABYTE Logo Gallery on web site or other compatible picture you have.
> How dose it work ?
> Face-Wizard™ allows user to select BIOS on board or file in hard drive¡Bfloppy disk¡Bzip¡BMO or other storage devices and combine the compatible picture you prefer into BIOS. And not only this, Face-Wizard™ also helps user to update BIOS in windows mode.
> What's benefit for using Face-Wizard™ ?
> It can personalize boot-up logo to show your unique style from others, and never again looking at the black and white boot up screen.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -Q-Share V.2
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Some kind of networking crap
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -Gigabyte OC Guru II (Gigabyte 7950 GPU)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Video card OC software?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -Marvell 91.xx Driver
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Drivers for the Marvell chip on the board not needed unless you are using the marvel SATA Connectors.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Via Technologies
> -VIA Platform Device Manager
> -Modify Registry V0.1
> 
> Realtek
> -Ethernet Driver
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> You need these
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -HDMI Audio
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> You need this if you are using onboard sound
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> -High Def Audio
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Same as above
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Hope that helps.


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lowlife*
> 
> Hope that helps.


-How do I know if I am using Marvell Sata Connectors?
-Is there a better OC'ing or modification program than Easy Tune 6?

-I DELETED Face Wizard (*** does it mean to me and what does it benefit?)
-I DELETED Q-Share (I dont have a network of computers)
-I DELETED Auto Green (I would just turn the computer off)


----------



## Lowlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> -How do I know if I am using Marvell Sata Connectors?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Look in the manual and look to see which connectors you are using.
> 
> 
> 
> -Is there a better OC'ing or modification program than Easy Tune 6?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Use the BIOS to overclock.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lowlife*


When you say use the BIOS, are you referring to the BIOS program on windows or when I reset the computer and press delete during boot?


----------



## Lowlife

When you press delete during boot.

You might want to read enough that you understand what you are doing before you try anything.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes you can but you will suffer a small performance hit.
> assuming you put it in the second x16 slot and not a x8/x4
> 
> it is not large. but it does not matter if the card is close to the heat sinks.
> 
> to my understanding stat drivers are for raid only ? and to be installed at windows install


Once again you have wrong understanding of things.

Sata Drivers are for third party SATA driver CHIP or Controllers. Marvell is one.

After Windows Installation, Windows will only detect your drives as NATIVE SATA controlled drives.

Not that windows won't run your drives properly, but for your controllers to properly work with Operating System.

And I have to admit, No performance gains after installing the Marvell SATA Drivers. But like everything else on your motherboard, AUDIO, CHIPSET, GRAPHICS. You do install their drivers even if Windows already detects them and working properly right?

As for the Graphics card installed on the 2nd PCIe X16 port, No problem at all. No performance hit as well. The only issue with that is, During Start-up, Bios will check on the installed Components hooked to the motherboard. And by Default will send the signal to the first port first. No feedback, send it to the 2nd X16 Port. No feedback, Send it to the 3rd port. And so on. Part of the system check mechanism of the motherboard. That's the reason why if you have no Graphics card installed, it'll take a while before the motherboard gives out successive beeps notifying the absence of a graphics card. The more ports present, the longer it takes to check. But don't worry all the checking is done at speeds you won't even notice if you have your card installed on the 2nd slot than the 1st slot.

By the way, after checking which port has a device connected with, all the signals will automatically be routed, adjusted to whatever speeds, and everything will be all right.

In a Crossfire or SLI set-up, you can even browse in the bios where you are given an option which card will initialise first.

On the heat side, Video cards are already hot. So is the NB that's close to the 1st slot. Connect them close to each other and heat build up will be quicker for both of them. And You don't want a hot system right?


----------



## dmfree88

that is my understand mus1mus. Software is always optional but drivers are always best to use just in case theres some sort of update regarding the hardware your using. No different then updating the bios its not required but usually better results and better compatibility (unless its a bad release)


----------



## glenquagmire

why do I have 1866 CL 8 RAM and on the BIOS screen says 1600 at CL 11?


----------



## mus1mus




----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> why do I have 1866 CL 8 RAM and on the BIOS screen says 1600 at CL 11?


You might need to enter the XMP profiles of your RAMS. XMP Profile 1 will be for the rated speed your RAM unless otherwise noted on your RAM's Specification sheet.

Or you made some tweaks off your FSB, BCLK or HT ref from stock.









Or your RAM Multipliers


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> that is my understand mus1mus. Software is always optional but drivers are always best to use just in case theres some sort of update regarding the hardware your using. No different then updating the bios its not required but usually better results and better compatibility (unless its a bad release)


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lowlife*
> 
> When you press delete during boot.
> 
> You might want to read enough that you understand what you are doing before you try anything.


So I dont need the BIOS application loaded in Windows because I have BIOS on boot "delete"?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> So I dont need the BIOS application loaded in Windows because I have BIOS on boot "delete"?


the bios application in windows changes the bios when you press delete. technically they are the same but the application in windows is not recommended because its not directly made for your motherboard as much as its made for all mobos


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> the bios application in windows changes the bios when you press delete. technically they are the same but the application in windows is not recommended because its not directly made for your motherboard as much as its made for all gigabyte mobos (or asus or msi etc)


If you are referring to the program @BIOS, it is a program that make it easier to put a new bios in place of your existing one.


----------



## dmfree88

no i was referring to amd overdrive or similar


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> no i was referring to amd overdrive or similar


I have no idea why it quoted your post, I meant to quote glenquagmire.

Chalk that one up to distracted posting on my part.

And cold feet. Need to turn up the heat. Ah, discovered the problem. Door was open.


----------



## tuso

Solved !!!









Yes, the problem was the cooler Hyper 212 evo.









I bought a Zalman CNPS 10x Optima, amazing the temp max was 59ºc. with prime 95 15min.







Playing games 45ºC max.

This Zalman is a great cooler for my. I have been during 2 years with my Cooler Hyper 212 and temps problems . I changed thermal paste, position cooler a lot.
Also I have Cooler Hyper 212 plus in other PC, and the same results High temps when the CPU 100%.

I think Hyper 212 has a problema of design or the cooler surface is not correct, I do not know.


----------



## SavageBrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> why do I have 1866 CL 8 RAM and on the BIOS screen says 1600 at CL 11?


you may need to go into the the UEFi and manually adjust your timings...having just left the UD3 go into memory setting A & B and change your timings..please someone correct this if incorrect..

p.s. moved my video card to the 2nd x16 slot as the UD7 first pcie x16 slot is right next to the upper heat sinks,cpu and ram slots really get tight up in the first slot..

oh and another question,,I see it states that the ud7 can oc ram to 2000,would it be better to oc my current ram (1600) up to that or can I take some 2133 and lower it..kind of lost here


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Here is what I have on my computer, tell me to delete or keep (these are Gigabyte Publishers and came with the MOBO Disk):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> -Advanced Catalyst Install Manager
> -Easy Tune 6
> -Auto Green
> -Update Manager
> -On/Off Charge
> -DMI View Ver 1.5
> -BIOS
> -Smart Recovery 2
> -Face Wizard
> -Q-Share V.2
> -Gigabyte OC Guru II (Gigabyte 7950 GPU)
> -Marvell 91.xx Driver
> 
> Via Technologies
> -VIA Platform Device Manager
> -Modify Registry V0.1
> 
> Realtek
> -Ethernet Driver
> -HDMI Audio
> -High Def Audio


again uninstall everything from giga cd

go here first

http://support.amd.com/us/Pages/AMDSupportHub.aspx

get the latest driver or beta 13.9 or 13.10

then

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#dl

support & downloads >>> pick your operating system

then download everything from utility and drivers

1 you do not need HDMI audio to my knowledge but i could be wrong the optical output may need it ~ not my area of expertise

2 never heard of via tech. are you sure you got that from the CD?

do not instal auto green as it claims it is power savings via blue tooth ? not familiar with it

to answer your other questions not sure what face wiz or qshare does sorry .
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> When you say use the BIOS, are you referring to the BIOS program on windows or when I reset the computer and press delete during boot?


bios programs are known to be buggy 99% of the time, the only time ppl ever refer to programs are when you on on asrock as their bios have limited settings but the program allows you to extend them

amd overdrive is decent HOWEVER you need to keep your bios stock or it has the potential to overvolt your system
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Once again you have wrong understanding of things.
> 
> Sata Drivers are for third party SATA driver CHIP or Controllers. Marvell is one.
> 
> After Windows Installation, Windows will only detect your drives as NATIVE SATA controlled drives.
> 
> Not that windows won't run your drives properly, but for your controllers to properly work with Operating System.
> 
> And I have to admit, No performance gains after installing the Marvell SATA Drivers. But like everything else on your motherboard, AUDIO, CHIPSET, GRAPHICS. You do install their drivers even if Windows already detects them and working properly right?
> 
> As for the Graphics card installed on the 2nd PCIe X16 port, No problem at all. No performance hit as well. The only issue with that is, During Start-up, Bios will check on the installed Components hooked to the motherboard. And by Default will send the signal to the first port first. No feedback, send it to the 2nd X16 Port. No feedback, Send it to the 3rd port. And so on. Part of the system check mechanism of the motherboard. That's the reason why if you have no Graphics card installed, it'll take a while before the motherboard gives out successive beeps notifying the absence of a graphics card. The more ports present, the longer it takes to check. But don't worry all the checking is done at speeds you won't even notice if you have your card installed on the 2nd slot than the 1st slot.
> 
> By the way, after checking which port has a device connected with, all the signals will automatically be routed, adjusted to whatever speeds, and everything will be all right.
> 
> In a Crossfire or SLI set-up, you can even browse in the bios where you are given an option which card will initialise first.
> 
> On the heat side, Video cards are already hot. So is the NB that's close to the 1st slot. Connect them close to each other and heat build up will be quicker for both of them. And You don't want a hot system right?


since you seem hell bent on telling me i am wrong, which i am not.

1 as for the underlined. lets goto HIS manual
Source
page 71 ( starts on page 70 )


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



[quote}- 71 -
Configuring SATA Hard Drive(s)
For the Marvell
®
88SE9172:
Step 1:
Copy the
Marvell
folder under
BootDrv
in the driver disk to your USB flash drive.
Step 2:
Boot from the Windows 8/7 setup disk and perform standard OS installation steps. When the screen requesting
you to load the driver appears, select
Browse
.
Step 3:
Insert the USB flash drive and then browse to the location of the driver. The locations of the drivers are as follows:
RAID driver for Windows 32-bit: \BootDrv\Marvell\RAID\Floppy32
RAID driver for Windows 64-bit: \BootDrv\Marvell\RAID\Floppy64
AHCI driver for Windows 32-bit: \BootDrv\Marvell\AHCI\Floppy32
AHCI driver for Windows 64-bit: \BootDrv\Marvell\AHCI\Floppy64
Step 4:
When a screen as shown in Figure 2 appears, select
Marvell 91xx SATA 6G RAID Controller
and click
Next
to load the driver and continue the OS installation[/quote]


during windows install.
and if you read that... ( starting on page 70 ) IT IS FOR RAID

2 as far as the pcie slot i will show you the evidence as i was giving a generic answer relating to all mobos
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes you can but you will suffer a small performance hit.*
> assuming you put it in the second x16 slot and not a x8/x4
> *
> it is not large. but it does not matter if the card is close to the heat sinks.


the fact is that the ud3 which he has HAS ONLY 1x pcie2.0 x16 slot and the other slots are X4 with an x16 housing in which you are WRONG

the X4 slots would be fine for internet browsing and what not. however lets assume he didnt buy a 7950 for internet browsing and wants to game as it is $200-300 VS a $20 card which would be fine for that purpose

in which case the x4 slots severely LIMIT & BOTTLENECK his system

*my apologies i was looking at the wrong user specs he said he has a ud7 not a ud3 *

lets look at the crossfire kings manual the ud7.


Source
page 10


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> For optimum performance, if only one PCI Express graphics card is to be installed, be
> sure to install it in the PCIEX16_1 slot; if you are installing two PCI Express graphics
> cards, it is recommended that you install them in the PCIEX16_1 and PCIEX16_2
> slots.






because
Quote:


> Once again you have wrong understanding of things.


are you going to tell me that gigabyte, asus and MOST if not ALL OTHER manufactures of the board are wrong?

please dont try to say i am wrong. please show me EVIDENCE. .... i like to learn.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> that is my understand mus1mus. Software is always optional but drivers are always best to use just in case theres some sort of update regarding the hardware your using. No different then updating the bios its not required but usually better results and better compatibility (unless its a bad release)


which is fine there is no harm in using it, but the benefits are from RAID
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> why do I have 1866 CL 8 RAM and on the BIOS screen says 1600 at CL 11?


most ram defaults to 1333 or 1600, anything above 1866 is technically overclocking, however some mobos read the xmp profile / what ever amd calls it ( name differs from mobo manufacture to mobo manufacture ) automatically and will apply those settings but it is very very rare.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You might need to enter the XMP profiles of your RAMS. XMP Profile 1 will be for the rated speed your RAM unless otherwise noted on your RAM's Specification sheet.
> 
> Or you made some tweaks off your FSB, BCLK or HT ref from stock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or your RAM Multipliers


this let us know if you need help it is pretty easy once you know what you are doing. if you dont though it can be overwhelming as all you see is a lot of numbers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> So I dont need the BIOS application loaded in Windows because I have BIOS on boot "delete"?


bios means basic input/output system every computer has them. in very basic definition it tells the computer how to run feel free to google bios to learn more
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuso*
> 
> Solved !!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, the problem was the cooler Hyper 212 evo.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a Zalman CNPS 10x Optima, amazing the temp max was 59ºc. with prime 95 15min.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Playing games 45ºC max.
> 
> This Zalman is a great cooler for my. I have been during 2 years with my Cooler Hyper 212 and temps problems . I changed thermal paste, position cooler a lot.
> Also I have Cooler Hyper 212 plus in other PC, and the same results High temps when the CPU 100%.
> 
> I think Hyper 212 has a problema of design or the cooler surface is not correct, I do not know.


yes unfortunately the 212 has met its match when it comes to the fx lineup. it is a decent cooler for price. but for a 83xx, it just does not cut it


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes you can but you will suffer a small performance hit.
> assuming you put it in the second x16 slot and not a x8/x4
> 
> it is not large. but it does not matter if the card is close to the heat sinks.
> to my understanding stat drivers are for raid only ? and to be installed at windows install


LOL you do not suffer from performance when you put it in the second 16x slot..

You will if you put it in the x8 or x4 slot, i did so myself yesterday and i did not suffer from performance loss

Also it is a big deal when the GPU is only a few mm from the NB heat sink because it breathes the hot air coming from the GPU and since i put it in the second X16 slot the NB temps drop for like 2/5 c depending what i am doing.

I put an extra fan blowing on the NB and a second is sitting on my HDD bracket blowing air from the back to the front of the GPU and that saves me some extra 5c.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> LOL you do not suffer from performance when you put it in the second 16x slot..
> 
> You will if you put it in the x8 or x4 slot, i did so myself yesterday and i did not suffer from performance loss
> 
> Also it is a big deal when the GPU is only a few mm from the NB heat sink because it breathes the hot air coming from the GPU and since i put it in the second X16 slot the NB temps drop for like 2/5 c depending what i am doing.
> 
> I put an extra fan blowing on the NB and a second is sitting on my HDD bracket blowing air from the back to the front of the GPU and that saves me some extra 5c.


why does gigbyte and every other manufacture say that you will. do they say that just to hear them selfs speak.? NO for best perf. with single card you put it in the top slot.
as i have shown from gigas manual i can start quoting other manuals if you want .


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why does gigbyte and every other manufacture say that you will. do they say that just to hear them selfs speak.? NO for best perf. with single card you put it in the top slot.
> as i have shown from gigas manual i can start quoting other manuals if you want .


do you always believe what manufacturers say?

I mean AMD said that the FX 8350 can only support 1866 RAM while i clearly RUM 2400mhz









What i try to say is that manufacturers doe not always say the truth, they are often off according their products.

In my opinion they say that just to be save, last time there was an debate about the max temp for the FX-8350 and volts, the one said 62c the other says 72c well i called AMD and guess what? they don't know it and do not provide such information to customers.. The next time i called they said it was 61c and on their form they say that its 1.55 max voltage and 62c for 24/7 usage...

I have mine in the second 16X slot and i do not lose ANY performance at all, i played some games because i heard the same thing you claim but i did not drop any FPS at all...

it would be strange that you will have performance loss because its the same 16X slot, so it does not make any sense at all that you should loose performance at the same slot


----------



## Mega Man

compared to ppl just spouting random info without evidence. yes, yes i do
random example
"trust me i am an engineer" in my book esp on the internet is just not a valid response. do you know how many engineers i meet on the internet? i could claim i was the maker of the product. but yet with no proof.....

i am simple to convince SHOW ME PROOF
definitive proof

in this case
not the fps record, but the latency records. and a full list of what was running on your system.


----------



## SavageBrat

I'll guess i'll chime in here though the manual does say the card should be placed in the 1st x16 slot, I would have to agree that a x16 is an x16 slot..unless we're missing something..hmm


----------



## hurricane28

I am sorry man but you are wrong Mega,

Both 16X lanes have the same bandwidth because they are ganged mode so both slots are fine to use with no performance loss.

They are both PCI-E 2.0 slots so there is no difference because they both are fed by the NB/HT link. Only when SLI or 3x SLI you will see difference because the bandwidth is shared and runs as 8X instead of X16.

Try it yourself and see that there is no difference at all









Ehm proof? i did ask you for some proof some time ago and you did not even answered my question









I always learned that at first you need to take a good look at yourself before judging people or point your finger and say you are wrong.


----------



## glenquagmire

Okay settle it this way, plug the darn thing in and see what it looks like. If it sucks, move it back to slot 1. Ta da!

I get my second card today...Yeh!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Okay settle it this way, plug the darn thing in and see what it looks like. If it sucks, move it back to slot 1. Ta da!
> 
> I get my second card today...Yeh!


LOL ye i totally agree man and thats what i did









you have 7950 in crossfire now?


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> LOL ye i totally agree man and thats what i did
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you have 7950 in crossfire now?


I literally have the second one in my hands. I havent gotten home to install yet. Yes it will be in X-fire.

Gigabyte windforce stock 1000 mzH after the revision. Got each for $200 after rebate and each came with Radeon GOLD 3 game selection. I am selling one of the 3 game selection vouchers though. total cost for both GPU plus 3 games, $375. Funny when they first came out, each GPU was about $500.00. Crazy!!


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> And stop doing the PM thing. I'm already hell bent not discussing things with you in a secluded world of one way communications. If you want to prove things on which you think I am wrong, do it here.


I SMELL A CHALLENGE TO MORTAL KOMBAT!! LOLOLOL


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I literally have the second one in my hands. I havent gotten home to install yet. Yes it will be in X-fire.
> 
> Gigabyte windforce stock 1000 mzH after the revision. Got each for $200 after rebate and each came with Radeon GOLD 3 game selection. I am selling one of the 3 game selection vouchers though. total cost for both GPU plus 3 games, $375. Funny when they first came out, each GPU was about $500.00. Crazy!!


Nice man









I would like some benchmarks tho wonder what score you get with those cards









and yes the prices plumed because of the all new GPU's i can get an extra 660ti for like 150 if i want but i am not sure yet.


----------



## glenquagmire

Well prices aren't ever going up, that's for sure. Technology always goes down. So wait long enough and you will have wanted a new radeon 9000 or something. Just kind of get a good deal and bite the bullet.

I do know that 2 of them on some games run worse than one 7950. On other games the X fire hangs with the best gpus out now


----------



## hurricane28

Yes indeed and due to technical unemployment the prices become even lower for newer and faster GPU's.

Ye it depends on the game indeed how they scale some games favor AMD and some Nvidia i do know that in the best scenario they will be more powerful than the higher end GPU's but what i wanted to know is the actual score of it by 3Dmark11


----------



## glenquagmire

Do I download that program?? I can try tonight I think. I wont OC anything and try it.


----------



## glenquagmire

Also....I have 2 2tb hdds. I have them on port 1 and 2 Sata. They are installed because I see them on the bios but why can't I I see the email under my computer as a drive?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Also....I have 2 2tb hdds. I have them on port 1 and 2 Sata. They are installed because I see them on the bios but why can't I I see the email under my computer as a drive?


did you set the HDD to AHCI or IDE? if you set them to IDE you should see them in windows









HDD uses IDE and SSD uses AHCI.


----------



## glenquagmire

I THINK ahci because ssd is port 0. I may have to move the hdd to Sata 345 to make ide...?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I THINK ahci because ssd is port 0. I may have to move the hdd to Sata 345 to make ide...?


no it does not matter just make sure that you set IDE in bios at the port you connect your HDD's at









If i am correct its in peripherals in the bios and you can select from there to AHCI or IDE, also make sure your windows is in AHCI as well.

follow this tutorial to make your system even faster because you optimize windows for SSD usage









http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/forum/showthread.php?63273-*-Windows-7-Ultimate-Tweaks-amp-Utilities-*


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> did you set the HDD to AHCI or IDE? if you set them to IDE you should see them in windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HDD uses IDE and SSD uses AHCI.


you should see them without issue in either. ahci is faster and better for sdds.

first I would check all connection data and power.

then check in bios to see if the bios sees the hdd if not then I would replace the sata data cable with a spare if you have it and check again.

I am not at home and I don't have the bios memorized like I did for my asus. I c can give you on how to check that when I get home or maybe some else can come in and guide you on how to.

basically ide is the old tech and ahci is the new tech


----------



## Mega Man

sorry for spelling I'll fix it when I get home I can't do it on my phone, better said I wont


----------



## rakesh27

Guys,

Sorry to change the subject alittle, just want to know i have UD7 rev1 will i be able to use the new AMD 9590 CPU's with it without any problems ?

Thanks


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Also....I have 2 2tb hdds. I have them on port 1 and 2 Sata. They are installed because I see them on the bios but why can't I I see the email under my computer as a drive?


Have you set them up as RAID Drives?

If not, Follow these.

If you can see in the BIOS, and you can't on Windows, You can try doing these steps.

1. Click on the Windows Button.

2. Type Administrative Tools on the Search Program and Files. Run it as Administrator.

3. Go to Computer Management. Double Click that. You should see a Window like this.


4. Double click on Storage.

5. Double click on Disk Management (Local).


Should you see Disk 0, Disk 1, or others, You are good on EVERYTHING except, You need to initialize the Disk and Create a new Volume.

Formatting will take a while for 2 TB Capacity if you decide to Uncheck the Perform Quick Format Option.

Feel Free to Use the Help on windows. Enter keywords like "create partition" "disk drive" etc.

Note: On the Image showing my drives, it is indicated as Disk 0 only since I only have a single drive with a couple of Local partitions.









And don't forget to use NTFS file System.


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Have you set them up as RAID Drives?
> 
> If not, Follow these.
> 
> If you can see in the BIOS, and you can't on Windows, You can try doing these steps.
> 
> 1. Click on the Windows Button.
> 
> 2. Type Administrative Tools on the Search Program and Files. Run it as Administrator.
> 
> 3. Go to Computer Management. Double Click that. You should see a Window like this.
> 
> 
> 4. Double click on Storage.
> 
> 5. Double click on Disk Management (Local).
> 
> 
> Should you see Disk 0, Disk 1, or others, You are good on EVERYTHING except, You need to initialize the Disk and Create a new Volume.
> 
> Formatting will take a while for 2 TB Capacity if you decide to Uncheck the Perform Quick Format Option.
> 
> Feel Free to Use the Help on windows. Enter keywords like "create partition" "disk drive" etc.
> 
> Note: On the Image showing my drives, it is indicated as Disk 0 only since I only have a single drive with a couple of Local partitions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And don't forget to use NTFS file System.


I dont think i did. I didnt want RAID.


----------



## mus1mus

So follow those steps. I assume you system was a newly built one. Upon installing Windows, there is an option called Advanced Drive Options where you can set the drive where Windows will be installed. And things like initiating drives. Surely those options were left untouched prior to the OS installation.

You need to do those inside Windows. As RAW drives can't be displayed until they are SET ACTIVE, and Formatted.

It's not a hard thing to do anyway. The Wizard is easy to understand too.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakesh27*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Sorry to change the subject alittle, just want to know i have UD7 rev1 will i be able to use the new AMD 9590 CPU's with it without any problems ?
> 
> Thanks


yes it should.

iirc it does not have llc though

you will have to compensate with higher volts for the vdrop
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I dont think i did. I didnt want RAID.


'first things first did they show up in bios or do you need me to walk you through it?

secondly are they brand new drives or old ones( you have data on them ) ?


----------



## glenquagmire

Are these supposed to be this close?


----------



## Mega Man

it depends on the board layout

i cant really see in the pic but iirc that is a 2 slot card.

if it is a 2 slot card it looks as though you may have the second card in the x4 slot.

are you sure you have it in the x16 slot

it is written on the board to the left of the pcie slot


----------



## glenquagmire

Wrong slot! Lol.

Rule 1.....Check the manual first


----------



## Mega Man

sweet !~! glad that is taken care of if you have never run cfx before fyi that top card is going to run hotter then the bottom one. there are some stuff you can do to help though

let me know if you are interested.

did you ever get your HDs to be seen ?


----------



## glenquagmire

Do I need to run cfx before before the second card is installed as crossfire?

I'm about to boot the computer to look at the hdd.


----------



## Hellsrage

Crap, I could use some help with overclocking. After I put a fan over my VRMs I decided to get a mild OC of 4.5, and while that worked after bumping the core voltage +.25. I wanted to get a little more from my FX-8350 so I set it to 4.7 and played some games, mainly BF4 and I got a few extra FPS but I did BSOD as I figured I might, so then I went and bumped it another +.25. Well just a minute ago I BSOD again while testing some games.

Is there any other voltages I could try bumping a little to get stability? Or did I strike out on the silicon lottery?

I have all the Cool N' Quite stuff disabled and HPC enabled, I'm using the multiplier to up the clocks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Do I need to run cfx before before the second card is installed as crossfire?
> 
> I'm about to boot the computer to look at the hdd.


no you dont have to enable it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Crap, I could use some help with overclocking. After I put a fan over my VRMs I decided to get a mild OC of 4.5, and while that worked after bumping the core voltage +.25. I wanted to get a little more from my FX-8350 so I set it to 4.7 and played some games, mainly BF4 and I got a few extra FPS but I did BSOD as I figured I might, so then I went and bumped it another +.25. Well just a minute ago I BSOD again while testing some games.
> 
> Is there any other voltages I could try bumping a little to get stability? Or did I strike out on the silicon lottery?
> 
> I have all the Cool N' Quite stuff disabled and HPC enabled, I'm using the multiplier to up the clocks.


so you are +.5v? or .05v?

if you are just going multi only clock
odds are you need to bump cpu/nb a little from stock
and NB a little.

whats your llc ?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so you are +.5v? or .05v?
> 
> if you are just going multi only clock
> odds are you need to bump cpu/nb a little from stock
> and NB a little.
> 
> whats your llc ?


.5v so 1.50v on vCore

My LLC is on Medium, I still don't fully understand what each setting does.

I think I'm stuck with just Mulit overclocking the last time I tried FSB I hit a point very early where I was losing stability, but that was before we discovered this boards VRM issues so I could try it again.


----------



## Mega Man

probably want llc high-ultra high
or you will just need more volts.

llc varies board to board. but generally anything below high and you usually have vdrop

high is pretty close to your set voltage @ load ultra high is just a little over volted from your setting and extreme is just too much

probably try 1.475 ish +high llc
as i said bump cpu/nb one bump and nb as well.

all 8350s have fsb dead spots and it varies chip to chip and board to board.

IE will boot fine to 249 and wont boot again till 266 or something . again it varies. let me know any other questions

most gigabyte users report a drop in temps if you set cpu pll to 1 notch BELOW 2.7 ( iirc 2.695 ) on other boards it does nothing but it helped me on my giga ( i also have a saberkitty and CVFz )


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> probably want llc high-ultra high
> or you will just need more volts.
> 
> llc varies board to board. but generally anything below high and you usually have vdrop
> 
> high is pretty close to your set voltage @ load ultra high is just a little over volted from your setting and extreme is just too much
> 
> probably try 1.475 ish +high llc
> as i said bump cpu/nb one bump and nb as well.
> 
> all 8350s have fsb dead spots and it varies chip to chip and board to board.
> 
> IE will boot fine to 249 and wont boot again till 266 or something . again it varies. let me know any other questions
> 
> most gigabyte users report a drop in temps if you set cpu pll to 1 notch BELOW 2.7 ( iirc 2.695 ) on other boards it does nothing but it helped me on my giga ( i also have a saberkitty and CVFz )


Alright I'll give all that a shot tomorrow, thanks for the info.


----------



## glenquagmire

Just got the second card installed.


----------



## mus1mus

LOAD LINE CALIBRATION:

On my UD3 r3, I was able to experiment with LLC a bit.

Extreme - At Stock, 1.425 Volts (I don't use this) which at offset of +0.025 is already at the realms of 1.525 max.

Ultra at 4.8GHz and offset of +0.100 on Vcore
Idle at 1.424 or low
Load at 1.500 max

High at 4.8GHz and offset of + 0.100 on Vcore
Idle at 1.424 or low
Load at 1.500 max

Medium at 4.8GHz and offset of + 0.100 on Vcore
Idle at 1.404 or low
Load at 1.488 max

Regular at 4.8Ghz and offset of +0.100 on Vcore
Idle at 1.404 or low
Load at 1.474max

Normal ( too erratic Vcore ) I don't use this.
Readings were taken from HWInfo 64 With Voltage Values taken at minimum and maximum after a stress run.

What do all these implied?

1. I can save more than 10 degrees C when using Regular LLC compared to Ultra at 4.8GHz as Maximum voltage at Load is limited 1.474. But can't be fully stable for about an Hour playing games.

2. I can be fully stable at 4.8GHz using Ultra LLC but will suffer from more Heat as Max Voltage at Load reach 1.500.

3. I can be fully Stable with a right Balance of System Temps when Using Medium LLC. Temps at Low 60's.

You'd get the point on experimenting with LLC on your System.

The way I found it is by setting my Vcore first at offset +0.100 and set my clock at 4.8GHz.

Record Voltages and Temps, Go down one LLC step, and so on.


----------



## glenquagmire

My hdds are plugged into Sata 1 and 2. Says on bios screen 0-3 are ahci. 4-5 are ide.


----------



## glenquagmire

they are brand new, no data. I dont think I want to RAID them. They are in BIOS but arent showing in Windows. I havent formatted them. I am using the SSD in SATA 0 for the OS.


----------



## Lowlife

Click on start, in the search box type "create and format hard disk partitions", press enter, right click on the drives you want to format and click format.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> they are brand new, no data. I dont think I want to RAID them. They are in BIOS but arent showing in Windows. I havent formatted them. I am using the SSD in SATA 0 for the OS.


Go ahead on administrative tools then


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lowlife*
> 
> Click on start, in the search box type "create and format hard disk partitions", press enter, right click on the drives you want to format and click format.


Yup this is quicker.









Just make sure you format the drives indicated by their 2TB size. They may be indicated as Disk 1 and Disk 2. Since disk 0 will be your SSD as the Boot Drive or OS partition.


----------



## glenquagmire

So do the hdds need to be moved to Sata 4 and 5 because 0-3 is ahci.

Also this is what I see.....do I select mbr or gpt?


----------



## Lowlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> So do the hdds need to be moved to Sata 4 and 5 because 0-3 is ahci.
> 
> Also this is what I see.....do I select mbr or gpt?


MBR is fine you don't need to move them.


----------



## glenquagmire

nothing happened, or so i think. I clicked that box and ok, but i dont see anything happening.

I also cannot location a format button. I can click the disk drive but what do i do?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> So do the hdds need to be moved to Sata 4 and 5 because 0-3 is ahci.
> 
> Also this is what I see.....do I select mbr or gpt?


[/quote]

MBR is Fine as well as your current physical set-up. And since you are using new drives, you can format it using the Quick Format option after initializing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lowlife*
> 
> MBR is fine you don't need to move them.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> nothing happened, or so i think. I clicked that box and ok, but i dont see anything happening.
> 
> I also cannot location a format button. I can click the disk drive but what do i do?


Re- run the create and format hard disk partition using what Lowlife instructed a few posts back..

Windows button > on the search Tab, type create and format ....

That will bring you to Disk management Window


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*


MBR is Fine as well as your current physical set-up. And since you are using new drives, you can format it using the Quick Format option after initializing.








[/quote]

How do I know they are "initialized" I dont see anything happening? How do I get them to format?


----------



## mus1mus

Okay, Go back on my previous instruction.

Windows Button, Search Tab, Type Computer Management,



Double click the encircled Storage.



Double click on that again. Disk Management



The encircled shows my drive installed. On yours will show Disk 1 and Disk 2 as well. You'll notice they are not labeled as ( C: ) or ( D: ).

I encircled the area where you can point your mouse pointer. Right Click on that area pointing to Disk 1 or Disk 2.

By right clicking you'll see the create partition option.

follow the instructions.

Format using Quick being checked.

You can assign any Drive letter to each drive.

But make sure you erase the Partition name. So it will be indicated as Local Disk.


----------



## glenquagmire

I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks till then.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

I keep reading about rev. 1.1 being what I need... is that just a bios revision? Sorry for the ignorance just wanting to get it asap before the deal is over!







This is what I need correct? I heard the UD7's latest revision didn't clock as well?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128508


----------



## mus1mus

board revision.
seems 1.1 is the one with LLC.. which is good


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Just got the second card installed.


I would remove one of the Crossfire interconnects man. I learned a while back the second one can cause issues. I had problems with Fallout 3 and NV especially with two interconnects on. Causes blurring and a ghosting. The second interconnect is for using 3 and 4 cards.


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I would remove one of the Crossfire interconnects man. I learned a while back the second one can cause issues. I had problems with Fallout 3 and NV especially with two interconnects on. Causes blurring and a ghosting. The second interconnect is for using 3 and 4 cards.


which one is the second one, lol?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

The "bottom" one lol.


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> The "bottom" one lol.


No I mean the left or right, connector?


----------



## glenquagmire

Also, anyone with input on Rads:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1430737/which-rad-and-which-set-up/10#post_20912746

I am toggling between 240x60 in push/pull (front case), 240x80 push/pull (front case) (with 1mm left in space before touching the HDD cage), or a 280x40 in push only (top case)


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

The right one.


----------



## MrWhiteRX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> board revision.
> seems 1.1 is the one with LLC.. which is good


So is that the one they're currently selling?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128508


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Also, anyone with input on Rads:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1430737/which-rad-and-which-set-up/10#post_20912746
> 
> I am toggling between 240x60 in push/pull (front case), 240x80 push/pull (front case) (with 1mm left in space before touching the HDD cage), or a 280x40 in push only (top case)


It depends on how silent you want to run your system basically.

personally i would go with an less dense radiator because you don't need to have an pressure optimized fan on it to cool good.

the EK-CoolStream RAD XT 240 is an very good one because of its low dense fin array and The parallel coolant channels reduce flow resistance to a minimum.

Or you can go with an 2x 140 280 rad and be even more silent with more cooling potential like the Black Ice GT Stealth 280.

I mean there is no reason at all for a good cooling system to be loud anyway


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrWhiteRX7*
> 
> So is that the one they're currently selling?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128508


its most likely the newer rev3. Newegg generally sells out faster then most and gets newer revisions pretty quickly. The only way you can really guarantee a rev1.1 is to buy it used.

also its not on sale for that cheap anyways:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FREE-SHIP-GIGABYTE-GA-990FXA-UD7-Socket-AM3-AMD-990FX-4-Way-CrossFireX-4-Way-/221178169222?pt=Motherboards&hash=item337f3f0786

they are just trying to make it seem like a big sale. It will probably never see $249 as a price tag again.


----------



## rakesh27

MegaMan and everyone else,

You know i asked you earlier about my board ud7 rev1 with 9590, and you said it will be ok, but i wont have LLC.

As i was reading up on it, is it a good thing to have LLC, as i presume my board does not have it, so i have to overclock with vdroop in mind ? is this correct.

What do you all think ? Are the later rev boards for the UD series 3,5 and esp 7 (the one i have) better then rev1 ?

I was thinking of selling my rev1 for rev3, would that be pointless ?

Also when will the release the 1090fx boards, shouldnt these be more of jump from prev generations....

Thanks all...


----------



## dmfree88

i could be wrong but i think the new uefi has problems even with the ud7. If you can get a 1.1 instead of 1.0 it would have llc and still be non-uefi bios with less issues. UD7 might not have the same issues as the other boards though im not sure. Either way you should be able to compensate for vdroop by increasing the voltage. I dont think the trade would be worth it unless you have the time and its not going to cost you anything.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakesh27*
> 
> MegaMan and everyone else,
> 
> You know i asked you earlier about my board ud7 rev1 with 9590, and you said it will be ok, but i wont have LLC.
> 
> As i was reading up on it, is it a good thing to have LLC, as i presume my board does not have it, so i have to overclock with vdroop in mind ? is this correct.
> 
> What do you all think ? Are the later rev boards for the UD series 3,5 and esp 7 (the one i have) better then rev1 ?
> 
> I was thinking of selling my rev1 for rev3, would that be pointless ?
> 
> Also when will the release the 1090fx boards, shouldnt these be more of jump from prev generations....
> 
> Thanks all...


in my opinion yes it is pointless.

llc just adds more volts to compensate for vdrop, that is all

so all you have to do is add more volts. everyone i know that does not have LLC say it runs cooler ( most have a few boards )

i know 2 ppl on OCN that have very respectable clocks i can point you too to help as well. maybe this weekend i was going to oc with no llc my self. i just have not had time


----------



## Lowlife

My ga-990fxa-ud3 rev. 3 has LLC. BIOS = FC


----------



## dmfree88

does your rev3 work well lowlife? alot of others have had issues with the rev3. How well has yours been working for you?


----------



## Lowlife

I have only had the board a few months and until a few days ago I had an old AM3 Athlon x4 in the board. It seems to be working well but I haven't messed with it enough to really judge yet. I have a FX-8350 in it now. I am running it at 4.4 Ghz right now. But all I did was raise the multiplier turn everything to manual but stock. Not prime stable. but stable enough haha.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> does your rev3 work well lowlife? alot of others have had issues with the rev3. How well has yours been working for you?


I got a rev3 too. To simply put it,

Good for modest OC of up to 4.8. Some said they got higher than that.

LLC meant voltage boost at load though









depending on LLC setting used, Vcore could swing up to 0.080 volts from values set. which is too much in my opinion.

min - maximum voltage delta even exceeds 0.100 volts even without throttling and Power savings Off.

Cooling the VRM sufficiently though and you voltage delta without throttle will be lessened.


----------



## glenquagmire

How do I hook up multiple fans to a 3 female port volt switch attached to the front of my case? Fractal Design XL R2 case has a 5, 7, 12 V switch .

I am going to buy 4 fans for the rad, but want to know how do you hook them up? I would like to use my volt switch but it has only 3 connectors.


----------



## mus1mus

get a y - splitter as well. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812162026


----------



## rakesh27

Guys,

I was checking out newegg for the rev3 ud7 looking at the reviews, i was shocked to see many bad reviews, about the quality of the boards,

I think i will not upgrade, maybe i will get the 9590 CPU and sell my 965 and 8350... then wait for the next generation of mobo's to come out.

I got a few changes in mind as i want to also get the corsair 900d with a new cpu water closed loop heatsink..

I was worried my PSU wouldnt be enough for what i have as i have (Enermax SLI/Crossfire Galaxy 1000watt) 7990 first generation the ones that take up 3 pci-e slots, i think it has a better heat sink on it then the new 2 pci-e slot 7990 card.

I went to PSU calculator and put in all my stuff into it, when i pressed calculate i was glad to see it came to on load with every think near to 800watts, phew i have 200watts to spare...

Thanks for input, you've given me insight into what to do, i am abit worried when the next generation boards come out, i hope the quality from gigabyte will improve and there customer service department.

Thanks all


----------



## glenquagmire

What should I do here?

I have a radiator with 4 Gentle Typhoon fans on it I think I will attach to the volt switch from the front of my case (factal design xl r2). It however doesnt connect to the MOBO but directly to the PSU, so I dont get readings. Anyway around that?

Next question, I have 3 Exhaust fans, trying to figure out where to hook these up at? I can hook the exhaust up to the volt switch like the intake rad fans, but do I want to have all the fans on the same Voltage (intake and exhaust) or do I want the have the exhaust fans connected to the MOBO? I wasnt sure about creating positive air flow vs negative air flow and thought if I can control intake fans via switch 5, 7 ,12 volt and maybe control the exhaust fans at a lower voltage or rpm via mobo. If I do connect to the MOBO the exhaust fans, should I use splitters on the MOBO ports? So like 2 or 3 fans on one MOBO port? (see signature line for specs)

Help?


----------



## Wood1

i have this 990 ud3 version 3 that everyone is saying is garbage. unfortunately i didnt see this thread till after i bought my board. i bought it probably a month or two ago at this point, slowly upgrading and overclocking, as i have never built over overclocked a cpu.

im seeing about a .030 vcore swing at all times... im at about 4.0 right now with a fx6300. but had to lower the voltage to keep from overheating in prime. had it 4.2 and v @ +.025 and the thing went straight to 70 and freaked me out.

so i brought the voltage down to -.025 and the clock to 4.0 seems fine and stable in prime. <60* does anything im saying sound right? im trying to learn as much as i can there is just SOOOO much to know...


----------



## Rauli11

I have a 990fxa-ud3 REV 1.2

So my question is, i have a fx-6100 at 4,6 oc with h70 push pull ( 2x 120mm Corsair SP series) but my fans keep ramping up eeven when opening browser or my computer. Any program that works with this mobo that lets u make cpu fan profile? i used speedfan but it wasnt that good..


----------



## dmfree88

isnt there smart fan controls in the bios?


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wood1*
> 
> i have this 990 ud3 version 3 that everyone is saying is garbage. unfortunately i didnt see this thread till after i bought my board. i bought it probably a month or two ago at this point, slowly upgrading and overclocking, as i have never built over overclocked a cpu.
> 
> im seeing about a .030 vcore swing at all times... im at about 4.0 right now with a fx6300. but had to lower the voltage to keep from overheating in prime. had it 4.2 and v @ +.025 and the thing went straight to 70 and freaked me out.
> 
> so i brought the voltage down to -.025 and the clock to 4.0 seems fine and stable in prime. <60* does anything im saying sound right? im trying to learn as much as i can there is just SOOOO much to know...


You should probably upgrade from stock cooling before you start playing with voltages. Jus sayin









Can you verify with CPU-z the core voltage under load? Perhaps your default voltage setting was too high


----------



## SavageBrat

Hi All, pick up a UD7 rev 3 and it's ok, just got done tinkering with it did a mild oc to my 8150 took it to 4.5 ghz prime stable after an hour and a half.


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Yup this is quicker.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just make sure you format the drives indicated by their 2TB size. They may be indicated as Disk 1 and Disk 2. Since disk 0 will be your SSD as the Boot Drive or OS partition.


So I did the initialize or whatever. Now what? Under the two drives it says unallocated? Do I format them? How so?


----------



## Lowlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> 
> So I did the initialize or whatever. Now what? Under the two drives it says unallocated? Do I format them? How so?




Where mine says "storage drive (E" right click in that area and click format

In the bottom section. Yours are disk 1 and disk 2 right click on the right side where it says "1863.02 GB unallocated"


----------



## glenquagmire




----------



## Lowlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*


New Simple Volume


----------



## glenquagmire

Yep...see first pic above.


----------



## glenquagmire

Looks like I have to select....
New Simple volume
New spanned volume
New stripped volume
New mirrored volume
New raid 5 volume

I have no clue which one. Someone said don't raid.


----------



## Lowlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Yep...see first pic above.


Same instructions but click on the drive in the top section.

How To Format a Hard Drive in Windows 7


----------



## Wood1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> You should probably upgrade from stock cooling before you start playing with voltages. Jus sayin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you verify with CPU-z the core voltage under load? Perhaps your default voltage setting was too high


the swing is actually more than i thought in vcore. .108


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lowlife*
> 
> Same instructions but click on the drive in the top section.
> 
> How To Format a Hard Drive in Windows 7


Bang-a-rang Rufio!!!

Had to Partition First then it allowed me to Format.

Im a NOOB so what of it,


----------



## Rauli11

Only fan options for CPU are smart fan control ON/OFF. Off makes it run 100% all the time but ON makes it run quieter but it annoys me cause it will spike too often


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rauli11*
> 
> Only fan options for CPU are smart fan control ON/OFF. Off makes it run 100% all the time but ON makes it run quieter but it annoys me cause it will spike too often


So I will just hook up all the fans (intake and exhaust) to the Volt Switch 5v, 7v, 12v


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wood1*
> 
> the swing is actually more than i thought in vcore. .108


I think what you should do is try lowering your voltage one step at a time while maintaining your clocks. And checking your stability.

That way, you'll end up with a system stable enough with low Vcore. Also try the LLC settings. Extreme adds a lot of Voltage and swings more than 0.100 Volts minimum to maximum. Try Ultra or High.

And a better cooling will give you enough room for OC'ing.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Looks like I have to select....
> New Simple volume
> New spanned volume
> New stripped volume
> New mirrored volume
> New raid 5 volume
> 
> I have no clue which one. Someone said don't raid.


Simple Volume is all you need.

THAT Someone who told you don't RAID, must not have enough IDEA what benefits RAID can give you.

RAID 0 - FASTER (twice as fast in theory than a single drive if you use 2 disks)

RAID 1 - Better SECURITY ( as two drives save your data simultaneously)

RAID 10 - Combination of the above (but needs 3 or more Disks)

Feel free to use GOOGLE on the TOPIC.


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Simple Volume is all you need.
> 
> THAT Someone who told you don't RAID, must not have enough IDEA what benefits RAID can give you.
> 
> RAID 0 - FASTER (twice as fast in theory than a single drive if you use 2 disks)
> 
> RAID 1 - Better SECURITY ( as two drives save your data simultaneously)
> 
> RAID 10 - Combination of the above (but needs 3 or more Disks)
> 
> Feel free to use GOOGLE on the TOPIC.


thanks got it all set up. I just went into BIOS and change my memory profile so my 1866 RAM CL 8 shows up and not as 1600. Now I want to start overclocking everything else.

Now I downloaded for software: (I copied what the person recommended. Do you agree?)
_CPU:
Intel Burn Test until I'm doing 10-20 runs on "high" with my desired settings, then:
Overnight run Prime95 for a good 10 hours or more to test stability.
In doing all of this I'm running speccy/realtemp to see temperatures of the CPU. Speccy tends to be good as an overall temp program I've found.

GPU:
Install GPU-Z
Download Afterburner/Kombustor and install them.
Set up afterburner to allow for voltage control if possible.
Set the power limit to +20% where applicable (AMD 7xxx cards essentially)
Increase the core clock by like 50MHz, then test with Kombustor for 2-3 minutes.
Rinse and repeat until it either crashes or artifacts,
Then increase the voltage if temps are okay,
Check again, and keep increasing the core clock._


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> thanks got it all set up. I just went into BIOS and change my memory profile so my 1866 RAM CL 8 shows up and not as 1600. Now I want to start overclocking everything else.
> 
> Now I downloaded for software: (I copied what the person recommended. Do you agree?)
> _CPU:
> Intel Burn Test until I'm doing 10-20 runs on "high" with my desired settings, then:
> Overnight run Prime95 for a good 10 hours or more to test stability.
> In doing all of this I'm running speccy/realtemp to see temperatures of the CPU. Speccy tends to be good as an overall temp program I've found.
> 
> GPU:
> Install GPU-Z
> Download Afterburner/Kombustor and install them.
> Set up afterburner to allow for voltage control if possible.
> Set the power limit to +20% where applicable (AMD 7xxx cards essentially)
> Increase the core clock by like 50MHz, then test with Kombustor for 2-3 minutes.
> Rinse and repeat until it either crashes or artifacts,
> Then increase the voltage if temps are okay,
> Check again, and keep increasing the core clock._


pretty much
but goto the opening post in the 83xx club in my sig there is a download link for ibt axv

use that instead of ibt, ibt wont show you your real performance out of this chip

in either ibt or p95 both you are correct on ( long term usage of either, ibt 20+runs and p95 several hours at least ) {* but it is all user preference }

that said you want high memory usage in either, at least 80% of memory used. ( depending on how much memory you have if four gig use what you have 8+ you should be able to do 80%)


----------



## glenquagmire

What What do I need to do to my board first before I start over clocking the cpu and gpu's?

Only thing I have done so far is make my ram 1866 cl 8


----------



## Mega Man

generally reccomended to put a fan on your VRMs since you are water cooling as they dont get a lot of airflow .


----------



## glenquagmire

What's vrm?

Aside from fans, is there anything I need to do in bios to the board or anything before Overclocking?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> What's vrm?
> 
> Aside from fans, is there anything I need to do in bios to the board or anything before Overclocking?


Read through this about VRM's.
http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database
Deals voltage regulation/management. If they overheat, CPU throttles and yours probably will once you OC.

Things to disable
Cool & Quiet
C1E
SVM if it applies to your mobo
Core C6 state
APM
basically all power saving features.


----------



## mus1mus

I don't know what did it.
Or how I did it.

But 2400 MHz RAM from my CRAPPY Kingston HyperX Genesis 1866 9-11-9-27 is here:







Sad to say I'm hitting a MASSIVE Voltage WALL just after 4.8..

It was so much that even adding a couple of notches on the V's, still won't make it bench-able at least!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I don't know what did it.
> Or how I did it.
> 
> But 2400 MHz RAM from my CRAPPY Kingston HyperX Genesis 1866 9-11-9-27 is here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sad to say I'm hitting a MASSIVE Voltage WALL just after 4.8..
> 
> It was so much that even adding a couple of notches on the V's, still won't make it bench-able at least!


Looks good scores to me man









How much volts do you need for 5ghz? i am hitting a huge voltage wall as well with my chip







oh well as long as you can keep it cool voltages are not that important.

Do you know your batch number of your chip?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Looks good scores to me man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much volts do you need for 5ghz? i am hitting a huge voltage wall as well with my chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh well as long as you can keep it cool voltages are not that important.
> 
> Do you know your batch number of your chip?


I can't get it 5Ghz..even 4.9. 4.8 is the absolute limit on my set up.. Must be the board though. as even with multi, I can't get it 5.0..

1.488 max I can stabilize 4.8.. after that, I'll need to up the voltage too much..

funny as I only moved my sticks to the far slots. near the CPU, I can't even do 2133..

As stated on most Manuals, far slotsm should be occupied first.. but Bios detects them as slots 2 & 4...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I can't get it 5Ghz..even 4.9. 4.8 is the absolute limit on my set up.. Must be the board though. as even with multi, I can't get it 5.0..
> 
> 1.488 max I can stabilize 4.8.. after that, I'll need to up the voltage too much..
> 
> funny as I only moved my sticks to the far slots. near the CPU, I can't even do 2133..
> 
> As stated on most Manuals, far slotsm should be occupied first.. but Bios detects them as slots 2 & 4...


Okay, do you know your batch number?

What cooling do yo use and what mobo do you have? I mean i have one of the worst chips and even i can do 5ghz with my h100i in push/pull..

My manual also says that i have to occupy slot 2 and 4 so i did no problems there. Also when you have 4 sticks you still only have dual channel and you have to share the bandwidth so 16gb would be the max if you want the best performance.


----------



## punk2k6

Guys someone posted a Bios FDb for Gigabyte GA-990FXA rev 3.0 it now includes the APM mode

http://www.overclock.net/t/1202751/amd-fx-cpu-throttling-fixes-please-sticky/60


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I think I'll give it a try. However, the few times I've tried their beta's I cannot access the BIOS. Just locks up.

*eh actually, no I'm not going to mess with it. I have no throttling so to hell with it lol


----------



## glenquagmire

I want to start OC my CPU. Is there anything I need to do to the board or update in BIOS or whatever, before I begin?

990FXA- UD3 Rev 4.0


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I want to start OC my CPU. Is there anything I need to do to the board or update in BIOS or whatever, before I begin?
> 
> 990FXA- UD3 Rev 4.0


Ye, make sure you have the latest bios, make sure your VRM's don't get too hot watch temps and that is basically it









Make sure you have good monitor software like HWINFO64 and watch temps closely when testing or do anything high demanding.

Doe not go above 70c on the VRM, CPU is 62/65c 24/7 usage. Benching you can hit 70c but only for short periods of times and back off the OC for 24/7 usage.

Then again voltages are no issues with these chips its the heat that is the killer here and not the voltages. Happy OC'ing


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ye, make sure you have the latest bios, make sure your VRM's don't get too hot watch temps and that is basically it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you have good monitor software like HWINFO64 and watch temps closely when testing or do anything high demanding.
> 
> Doe not go above 70c on the VRM, CPU is 62/65c 24/7 usage. Benching you can hit 70c but only for short periods of times and back off the OC for 24/7 usage.
> 
> Then again voltages are no issues with these chips its the heat that is the killer here and not the voltages. Happy OC'ing


There is F1 and F2 for bios available. F1 is newest. How do i know which i have?

Are you saying that I should not run my CPU for 24/7 purposes OC'ed? If the temps are okay, does it matter? I have the CPU being watercooled.

says my current non OC temps are 9 degrees C.....


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I think I'll give it a try. However, the few times I've tried their beta's I cannot access the BIOS. Just locks up.
> 
> *eh actually, no I'm not going to mess with it. I have no throttling so to hell with it lol


+1 To that, don't think APM is gonna help much after we already fixed the issues by putting a fan over the VRMs.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> There is F1 and F2 for bios available. F1 is newest. How do i know which i have?
> 
> Are you saying that I should not run my CPU for 24/7 purposes OC'ed? If the temps are okay, does it matter? I have the CPU being watercooled.
> 
> says my current non OC temps are 9 degrees C.....


Like i said for 24/7 usage its okay to OC your system only don't ecceed temps above 62/65c

Use CPU-Z and open it, there is a tab that says mainbord and you can see what bios you are on.

Your temps are no were near 9c... unless you sitting outside










FX chips are known of their inaccurate temps reading when idle, only they are accurate at loads.

Its fine to run OC system only be aware of the temps, for everyday usage i would not go much beyond 60c at max usage.


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Like i said for 24/7 usage its okay to OC your system only don't ecceed temps above 62/65c
> 
> Use CPU-Z and open it, there is a tab that says mainbord and you can see what bios you are on.
> 
> Your temps are no were near 9c... unless you sitting outside
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FX chips are known of their inaccurate temps reading when idle, only they are accurate at loads.
> 
> Its fine to run OC system only be aware of the temps, for everyday usage i would not go much beyond 60c at max usage.


thanks


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> How do I flash board BIOS?
> 
> I have F1 and F2 is out.


go to here http://www.gigabyte.co.nl/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672&dl=1#utility download @bios

open the program and click update bios from gigabyte server and install it. very simple just read what you have to do and that's it.

Good luck man


----------



## OverThinkingit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ye, make sure you have the latest bios, make sure your VRM's don't get too hot watch temps and that is basically it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you have good monitor software like HWINFO64 and watch temps closely when testing or do anything high demanding.
> 
> Doe not go above 70c on the VRM, CPU is 62/65c 24/7 usage. Benching you can hit 70c but only for short periods of times and back off the OC for 24/7 usage.
> 
> Then again voltages are no issues with these chips its the heat that is the killer here and not the voltages. Happy OC'ing


Hello, I also have a UD3 Rev 4 board with an 8350 that I want to overclock.

For cooling im going to be using an h100i, but I am unsure on what the most optimal location/fan flow would be to keep the VRM and CPU as cool as possible. Since I will most likely be mounting the AIO on top (fractal R4), im wondering if the radiator fans should be in an intake position or exhaust position? Having it in an intake position seems great for the radiator but bad for the rest of the components (though the cooler coolant would help CPU temps). Having it as an exhaust definitely makes sense for the flow of the case but this leaves the radiator being "cooled" with warm air. Considering how crucial it is for the VRM to stay cool, what do you guys suggest?

Mounting the radiator in the front is an option as well but im worried that the water pump might have to work harder.


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> go to here http://www.gigabyte.co.nl/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672&dl=1#utility download @bios
> 
> open the program and click update bios from gigabyte server and install it. very simple just read what you have to do and that's it.
> 
> Good luck man


All set on F2 now....


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> Hello, I also have a UD3 Rev 4 board with an 8350 that I want to overclock.
> 
> For cooling im going to be using an h100i, but I am unsure on what the most optimal location/fan flow would be to keep the VRM and CPU as cool as possible. Since I will most likely be mounting the AIO on top (fractal R4), im wondering if the radiator fans should be in an intake position or exhaust position? Having it in an intake position seems great for the radiator but bad for the rest of the components (though the cooler coolant would help CPU temps). Having it as an exhaust definitely makes sense for the flow of the case but this leaves the radiator being "cooled" with warm air. Considering how crucial it is for the VRM to stay cool, what do you guys suggest?
> 
> Mounting the radiator in the front is an option as well but im worried that the water pump might have to work harder.


if you can manage to get a really good fan blowing out the top of the back of the case (im talking high CFM delta style fan good) and another fan blowing directly onto the VRM (That fan can be smaller and doesn't need to be great). Then you should be able to suck all of the warm air out of the back still. keeping all airflow forced to the top. Then you can set the h100i to intake ontop, not have to worry and get the most out of it.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Okay, do you know your batch number?
> 
> What cooling do yo use and what mobo do you have? I mean i have one of the worst chips and even i can do 5ghz with my h100i in push/pull..
> 
> My manual also says that i have to occupy slot 2 and 4 so i did no problems there. Also when you have 4 sticks you still only have dual channel and you have to share the bandwidth so 16gb would be the max if you want the best performance.


I can't get my batch number as the rig is already installed and such a PITA to pull out this HUGE *Silver Arrow*.
All I know is my *Core VID is at 1.337* at stock.
Which I think is high compared to 8350s that at stock is already at 4 GHz.
But I found it also interesting that I don't need to add any offset Voltage up to 4.5 GHz







even on Regular LLC or Normal

Mobo is the beloved UD3-rev 3









Just Booting at 4.9-50 is no ease. Even tried giving it as much as 1.55 just to test whether I can pull out an AIDA score on 4.9 but naah!!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> Hello, I also have a UD3 Rev 4 board with an 8350 that I want to overclock.
> 
> For cooling im going to be using an h100i, but I am unsure on what the most optimal location/fan flow would be to keep the VRM and CPU as cool as possible. Since I will most likely be mounting the AIO on top (fractal R4), im wondering if the radiator fans should be in an intake position or exhaust position? Having it in an intake position seems great for the radiator but bad for the rest of the components (though the cooler coolant would help CPU temps). Having it as an exhaust definitely makes sense for the flow of the case but this leaves the radiator being "cooled" with warm air. Considering how crucial it is for the VRM to stay cool, what do you guys suggest?
> 
> Mounting the radiator in the front is an option as well but im worried that the water pump might have to work harder.


Well i have the H100i and at first i bought silent blue led fans in push pushing it out of the case but that gives me very high temps.

Than i had problems with my standard fans that come included with the cooler and i got 2 new ones from Corsair but later i find out that it was not the fan but it was the software that was not correct so i have 4 of those fans now in push/pull in the top of my Corsair obsidian 650D. (it nearly fits tho)

At first i want silent fans but that is a no go because of the high density and fin array of the radiator, also the pump is very weak it puts only 12 gallons a hour that's only 48l/pm roughly.

So i would highly suggest to mount the radiator in the top of the case pushing air out, if you can run it in push/pull with high static optimized fans and you will get good cooling otherwise in only pull or push it simply will not cool that much better than most high end air coolers.

pushing air is always better than sucking air from it... i don't know how people can say pulling is better than pushing because i tried everything from pushing, pulling and push/pull and the last gives me the best performance, i saw once on the internet that was from Linus Techtips that it does not matter if push or pull -_- i went like REALLY? i tested that and under full load i got 5/8c difference.

Also he is raving about the Noctua fans, the NF-F12 well i can tell you this that my Cooler master sickleflow blue led perform much better, more quiet and has better static pressure and for the price of one Noctua i can buy almost 4 Cooler master fans









Don't get me wrong that i think Noctuas are not good because Noctuas have mush better build quality but in my opinion they are way overpriced, i saw several reviews and the Noctuas perform very good but the Sickleflows are much more for your dollar









It all depends on how cold the air is what you push through your rad since that is the most important factor because, you can have the most powerful fans with the best radiator but if you pushing warm air through it you will never be able to keep it any cool.

Also like dmfree88 said, make sure you have an powerful fan as your exhaust that sucks warm air out of your case.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I can't get my batch number as the rig is already installed and such a PITA to pull out this HUGE *Silver Arrow*.
> All I know is my *Core VID is at 1.337* at stock.
> Which I think is high compared to 8350s that at stock is already at 4 GHz.
> But I found it also interesting that I don't need to add any offset Voltage up to 4.5 GHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> even on Regular LLC or Normal
> 
> Mobo is the beloved UD3-rev 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just Booting at 4.9-50 is no ease. Even tried giving it as much as 1.55 just to test whether I can pull out an AIDA score on 4.9 but naah!!


Aha i see, so your cooling is holding you back huh.

I have an high VID too mine is like 1.363, well i managed to get it 5ghz stable so far so i am happy only it puts an huge amount of heat which is hard to dissipate only when i am putting the fans at max and open my case for better airflow lol

Have you tried more PLL voltages as well? in some cases you can lower the vcore a bit and gives better temps.

My current vcore it set to 1.56 in bios with LLC on extreme so under load i get like 1.55 and more if its needed but at idle i run 1.53 which is fine and relatively low.

Also do you run that cooler in push/pull?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Aha i see, so your cooling is holding you back huh.
> 
> I have an high VID too mine is like 1.363, well i managed to get it 5ghz stable so far so i am happy only it puts an huge amount of heat which is hard to dissipate only when i am putting the fans at max and open my case for better airflow lol
> 
> Have you tried more PLL voltages as well? in some cases you can lower the vcore a bit and gives better temps.
> 
> My current vcore it set to 1.56 in bios with LLC on extreme so under load i get like 1.55 and more if its needed but at idle i run 1.53 which is fine and relatively low.
> 
> Also do you run that cooler in push/pull?


It's not really the temps that hold me back. I must say, It's the board itself.

The Silver Arrow http://www.thermalright.com/html/archives/cpu_heatsink/silverArrow.html is one of the best Air coolers you can buy. Along with the Noctua http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=34&lng=en and the Phanteks http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html
All of them can compete with the H100i according to many. Which is about right.

I can still improve on this cooler by giving it some high CFM fans like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12365/fan-811/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_5400_RPM_D1225C12BBAP-31_Coming_Soon.html to cope with the heat at 5.0 GHz if the board will only let me.









I don't mind hitting the 70s for benching as I have seen this chip at temp levels that exceed the recommended. 80 on Cinebench without even throttling.







On daily use, you won't see half of that (temps) on this chip even when gaming highly threaded apps. Not unless you are involved with some heavy video encoding jobs and rendering.

But the board will just die on me whether it's a Multiplier OC or Combination after 4.8GHz. As the VRMs can no longer cope with how fast the CPU needs the Power at 4.8 onwards.

LLC settings, I have already made my tests on them. As well as PLL voltages. And guess what, I have tried giving my CPU PLL something more. At 2.795, It still scales with the temps. Probably can cut off ~5 degrees per 0.100V Increase from stock of 2.500V. Even tried lowering it to 2.300 but the effects were no longer conceivable. So increasing it makes more of an option.

For the LLC for example, If I can't be stable at +0.100 on Regular, I can tweak it for Ultra and boom, Stability Passed. Or If I'm too hot on +0.100 Ultra, I can lower my temps considerably when using Regular. You get what I mean. LLC settings just need to be played with to find out which will work for you.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It's not really the temps that hold me back. I must say, It's the board itself.
> 
> The Silver Arrow http://www.thermalright.com/html/archives/cpu_heatsink/silverArrow.html is one of the best Air coolers you can buy. Along with the Noctua http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=34&lng=en and the Phanteks http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html
> All of them can compete with the H100i according to many. Which is about right.
> 
> I can still improve on this cooler by giving it some high CFM fans like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12365/fan-811/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_5400_RPM_D1225C12BBAP-31_Coming_Soon.html to cope with the heat at 5.0 GHz if the board will only let me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't mind hitting the 70s for benching as I have seen this chip at temp levels that exceed the recommended. 80 on Cinebench without even throttling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On daily use, you won't see half of that (temps) on this chip even when gaming highly threaded apps. Not unless you are involved with some heavy video encoding jobs and rendering.
> 
> But the board will just die on me whether it's a Multiplier OC or Combination after 4.8GHz. As the VRMs can no longer cope with how fast the CPU needs the Power at 4.8 onwards.
> 
> LLC settings, I have already made my tests on them. As well as PLL voltages. And guess what, I have tried giving my CPU PLL something more. At 2.795, It still scales with the temps. Probably can cut off ~5 degrees per 0.100V Increase from stock of 2.500V. Even tried lowering it to 2.300 but the effects were no longer conceivable. So increasing it makes more of an option.
> 
> For the LLC for example, If I can't be stable at +0.100 on Regular, I can tweak it for Ultra and boom, Stability Passed. Or If I'm too hot on +0.100 Ultra, I can lower my temps considerably when using Regular. You get what I mean. LLC settings just need to be played with to find out which will work for you.


okay so you have good cooling, well go for those fans man they seems very good









these chips can take pounding yes but i would not go much beyond 70c in benching and honestly in gaming i never go beyond 55c with my fanprofile in corsair link set to dynamic so they ramp up when its needed.

it seems quite odd that your motherboard holds you back to be honest, you have the UD3 rev 3.0?

Did you put a fan on the vrm's yet? it gives me some temp drops.

What is your PSU? is that a good one? it can be more than only the motherboard you know, maybe its your PSU that has a poor power delivery or something else.

I always run HWINFO64 in the background so i can check my system voltages, usages, temps everything i need to know so i know my PC is still healthy









If you don't mind make an signature in rigbuilder so we know what hardware you use to help you better since we know what you are running


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> okay so you have good cooling, well go for those fans man they seems very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> these chips can take pounding yes but i would not go much beyond 70c in benching and honestly in gaming i never go beyond 55c with my fanprofile in corsair link set to dynamic so they ramp up when its needed.
> 
> it seems quite odd that your motherboard holds you back to be honest, you have the UD3 rev 3.0?
> 
> Did you put a fan on the vrm's yet? it gives me some temp drops.
> 
> What is your PSU? is that a good one? it can be more than only the motherboard you know, maybe its your PSU that has a poor power delivery or something else.
> 
> I always run HWINFO64 in the background so i can check my system voltages, usages, temps everything i need to know so i know my PC is still healthy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you don't mind make an signature in rigbuilder so we know what hardware you use to help you better since we know what you are running


No mate. It'd be odd if this GA-990FXA UD3 rev. 3 can support or even produce 5.0GHz plus of overclocking headroom on a FX 8350/8320. I even doubt the new rev 4 can reach 5.0GHz.

Look at it this way, Gigabyte won't sell the UD3 series at a fairly lower price compared to the UD5 and UD7s if they can give customers the same OC'ing Headroom as the UD5s and the UD7s.

It would be pointless for them to sell the UD5s at a higher Premium over the UD3s when the layout, PCIes, Power Phases, and almost everything is virtually the same.
UD7s are another story as they support more PCIe slots and offer LED Diagnostic codes.

The only reason this has been my choice when I bought one was that this very computer was the very first I'll be OC'ing.
I didn't thought about getting it to 5 GHz when I bought it. I just didn't expect it to be this worse to be honest.

Anyway,
I already made tweaks off my VRM Sink. It's now a Custom Made Sink from the stock CPU cooler that came with the CPU that is very much cut into half and fitted into the VRMs. That, already is a step better than the stock VRM cooler. But it wasn't enough yet.

I'm at the moment making another.







from this http://www.deepcoolglobal.com/Product/ICE_BLADE100/ which will be soldered unto a copper baseplate to fit into the VRMs.









(You can't believe how easy it is pulling out the fins out of this cooler)







chinese stuff


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> Hello, I also have a UD3 Rev 4 board with an 8350 that I want to overclock.
> 
> For cooling im going to be using an h100i, but I am unsure on what the most optimal location/fan flow would be to keep the VRM and CPU as cool as possible. Since I will most likely be mounting the AIO on top (fractal R4), im wondering if the radiator fans should be in an intake position or exhaust position? Having it in an intake position seems great for the radiator but bad for the rest of the components (though the cooler coolant would help CPU temps). Having it as an exhaust definitely makes sense for the flow of the case but this leaves the radiator being "cooled" with warm air. Considering how crucial it is for the VRM to stay cool, what do you guys suggest?
> 
> Mounting the radiator in the front is an option as well but im worried that the water pump might have to work harder.


it is really either or, it is a choice needed to be had by you, how good is air flow in your case? the goal is usually for your case to have Slightly positive pressure ( more air in then out ) as it helps keep your pc less dusty either way works push or pull. push/pull will not give you amazing results if you have good rad fans, on a thin rad.

the best reason i have heard to go push or pull is in pull it is easier to clean. and in pull more air is pulled through the rad unlike push in which it escapes from small gaps ( which is why they made fan gaskets )

so it is something for you to find. may have to do some testing both ways and find what works best for you


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It's not really the temps that hold me back. I must say, It's the board itself.
> 
> The Silver Arrow http://www.thermalright.com/html/archives/cpu_heatsink/silverArrow.html is one of the best Air coolers you can buy. Along with the Noctua http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products_id=34&lng=en and the Phanteks http://www.phanteks.com/PH-TC14PE.html
> All of them can compete with the H100i according to many. Which is about right.
> 
> I can still improve on this cooler by giving it some high CFM fans like http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12365/fan-811/Scythe_Gentle_Typhoon_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_5400_RPM_D1225C12BBAP-31_Coming_Soon.html to cope with the heat at 5.0 GHz if the board will only let me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't mind hitting the 70s for benching as I have seen this chip at temp levels that exceed the recommended. 80 on Cinebench without even throttling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On daily use, you won't see half of that (temps) on this chip even when gaming highly threaded apps. Not unless you are involved with some heavy video encoding jobs and rendering.
> 
> But the board will just die on me whether it's a Multiplier OC or Combination after 4.8GHz. As the VRMs can no longer cope with how fast the CPU needs the Power at 4.8 onwards.
> 
> LLC settings, I have already made my tests on them. As well as PLL voltages. And guess what, I have tried giving my CPU PLL something more. At 2.795, It still scales with the temps. Probably can cut off ~5 degrees per 0.100V Increase from stock of 2.500V. Even tried lowering it to 2.300 but the effects were no longer conceivable. So increasing it makes more of an option.
> 
> For the LLC for example, If I can't be stable at +0.100 on Regular, I can tweak it for Ultra and boom, Stability Passed. Or If I'm too hot on +0.100 Ultra, I can lower my temps considerably when using Regular. You get what I mean. LLC settings just need to be played with to find out which will work for you.


I hate to tell you but as nice as the silver-arrow is your not going to get 5.0 stable. It does not compete with a h100i when it comes to overclock maximum. 95% of reviews out there do not push to maximum overclockability. Air coolers can only dissipate so much heat, they will perform similar or even better at lower clocks/voltages due to the heat being transferred a shorter distance before being removed but when pushed to the absolute maximum overclock you will see them fall behind significantly. Using a noctua NH-D14 and I was barely able to get 4.7ghz stable (im also using the non-pwm older version). You will not go as far as a h100i although im sure you can get 4.7-4.8 stable i doubt you can get 4.9 or 5.0. Most likely its not the VRM its the cooler.

80 is also pretty unsafe temp to get to, i would recommend sticking at the most under 70. The max before damage can start to happen is 90 degrees but its recommended to keep under 62*. Throttling or not never worth losing your chip over.

The reason LLC makes you stable as you increase it is because your vcore doesnt go down as far during loads. You dont want to test this based on stability/temperature, you will want to test this based on offset and vcore stability (not overall stability but stability of the vcore itself). You want to be at the lowest possible setting while keeping the least amount of offset (vdroop or vboost are both ok), at the same time making sure the voltages arent jolty (using a graphing monitor like OCCT can help). If you have the same results on ultra as you do on high then high is a better choice, some boards (like mine) will produce the same results on high, very high and extreme but are much more jolty on very high/ extreme. If this is not true for your board you will want the least amount of offset at the most stability.

After you set the LLC to a proper setting for your build then your temperatures will be based off what YOU set your vcore at. and will only be stable when set correctly. Using LLC to correct stability is not the best option.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> No mate. It'd be odd if this GA-990FXA UD3 rev. 3 can support or even produce 5.0GHz plus of overclocking headroom on a FX 8350/8320. I even doubt the new rev 4 can reach 5.0GHz.
> 
> Look at it this way, Gigabyte won't sell the UD3 series at a fairly lower price compared to the UD5 and UD7s if they can give customers the same OC'ing Headroom as the UD5s and the UD7s.


I'm with the others on this one, you cant blame the board for your overclocking troubles when you are trying to max out a hot CPU with an air cooler. At the end of the day, the best air cooler is still going to have less capability than mid-range water cooling.

I have a rev1 ud3 and run all day long at 4.9ghz, 1.525V with my 8350 (Intel Burn Test stable, max at around 45 C with my loop). I can get 4-5 burn test runs in at 5ghz, but I havent gotten it completely stable beyond that (I think my ram is causing issue).

You get what you pay for when it comes to cooling, and when overclocking hard you certainly have to pay to play.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I hate to tell you but as nice as the silver-arrow is your not going to get 5.0 stable. It does not compete with a h100i when it comes to overclock maximum. 95% of reviews out there do not push to maximum overclockability. Air coolers can only dissipate so much heat, they will perform similar or even better at lower clocks/voltages due to the heat being transferred a shorter distance before being removed but when pushed to the absolute maximum overclock you will see them fall behind significantly. Using a noctua NH-D14 and I was barely able to get 4.7ghz stable (im also using the non-pwm older version). You will not go as far as a h100i although im sure you can get 4.7-4.8 stable i doubt you can get 4.9 or 5.0. Most likely its not the VRM its the cooler.
> 
> 80 is also pretty unsafe temp to get to, i would recommend sticking at the most under 70. The max before damage can start to happen is 90 degrees but its recommended to keep under 62*. Throttling or not never worth losing your chip over.
> 
> The reason LLC makes you stable as you increase it is because your vcore doesnt go down as far during loads. You dont want to test this based on stability/temperature, you will want to test this based on offset and vcore stability (not overall stability but stability of the vcore itself). You want to be at the lowest possible setting while keeping the least amount of offset (vdroop or vboost are both ok), at the same time making sure the voltages arent jolty (using a graphing monitor like OCCT can help). If you have the same results on ultra as you do on high then high is a better choice, some boards (like mine) will produce the same results on high, very high and extreme but are much more jolty on very high/ extreme. If this is not true for your board you will want the least amount of offset at the most stability.
> 
> After you set the LLC to a proper setting for your build then your temperatures will be based off what YOU set your vcore at. and will only be stable when set correctly. Using LLC to correct stability is not the best option.


Thanks for the input mate. But like I said, 4.9-5.0 is impossible on my UD3 rev 3. Maybe there are some who can. And I'm not bragging about my Silver Arrow. I have to say I found it's limitations.

But like I said, just booting at 5.0GHz, with Vcore of 1.55 is already a Pain, surely it has nothing to do with the cooler. I'm not shooting for the 5.0 or even 4.9 from this cooler. Even more from this Mobo.

If you have experience using the board, you will know what I'm talking about. Just take a look at the input of people using this board and tell it's not the VRM, in no disrespect.

Regarding LLC, here are some of my captures regarding how I came up with LLC conclusions on my set-up.



This is for Ultra LLC at +0.075 on the V core.

Here you'll see the Maximum Vcore reached 1.476 Volts with a minimum of 1.416

Test Passed for 10 minutes. (now I know you'll be thinking 10 minutes won't be enough to determine long term stability. But this test is not about it. It's my way of finding out which LLC setting would give me the best results)



This is the result of turning the LLC setting to Regular at same offset Voltage on the Vcore.

The Core Voltage max'd out at 1.452 with the same minimum of 1.416 with Ultra.

It's cooler (of course) but it failed the test after just 3 minutes.

So I add a little bit of offset to the Vcore.



But I ended up with a system running hot as Vcore at maximum reached 1.488.

So bottom line, I chose Ultra LLC with an offset of +0.075. (wouldn't you if you were me?)

So when you said choosing LLC to determine stability is not the best option, yes, you might be right. But I did my tests. So don't tell me I am wrong with my claims. I did what you said even before you said so.

And one more thing, This motherboard won't show you Vdroops as opposed to UD7s and UD5s. On a UD3, it's a different thing. The more the system is subjected to LOADS, the MORE the Vcore stays at MAXIMUM.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> I'm with the others on this one, you cant blame the board for your overclocking troubles when you are trying to max out a hot CPU with an air cooler. At the end of the day, the best air cooler is still going to have less capability than mid-range water cooling.
> 
> I have a rev1 ud3 and run all day long at 4.9ghz, 1.525V with my 8350 (Intel Burn Test stable, max at around 45 C with my loop). I can get 4-5 burn test runs in at 5ghz, but I havent gotten it completely stable beyond that (I think my ram is causing issue).
> 
> You get what you pay for when it comes to cooling, and when overclocking hard you certainly have to pay to play.


Your rev 1 is kind of different from the rev 3 I should say. But yes, you are right on my cooler. But I never said a thing that my cooler can bring me there (though I said I might try upgrading my cooler with better fans if only the board can give me hints I need to. But naah, it wont even bother at 4.9). Booting at 5GHz is way too different from stabilizing it. But I cant. And I believe others have difficulties too.

But I won't argue with you. As I am still learning these things.









It would be nice if others can attest or even post a decent 5Ghz 8350/8320 on a UD3 rev 3 though.


----------



## dmfree88

its probably your chip, just one that needs more voltage then others try higher, it wont hurt it if you dont subject it to loads and spike the temps. There has been many over 5ghz with water cooling a ud3.. you just dont see it often since most people who watercool prefer a bigger mobo.

It is strange though that it wont even boot for you im sure theres something other then the mobo wrong. Maybe you need to bump cpu nb up one notch see if that helps. Have you also set CPU PLL to highest setting before it turns red? This has helped others stabilize aswell.

I think your having the same issue aswell dampmonkey just need some more volts to get 100% stable. Atleast your booting up though


----------



## glenquagmire

Do they make water blocks for the heat sync or vrms on a ud3 rev 4.0?

I guess they don't make water blocks blocks for gigabyte 7950 rev 2.0....


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Do they make water blocks for the heat sync or vrms on a ud3 rev 4.0?
> 
> I guess they don't make water blocks blocks for gigabyte 7950 rev 2.0....


EK makes a mobo WC block kit that fits the UD3 vrms and northbridge. It says the southbridge will not work though


----------



## glenquagmire

Thanks. Can I just buy the the bridge(s).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> its probably your chip, just one that needs more voltage then others try higher, it wont hurt it if you dont subject it to loads and spike the temps. There has been many over 5ghz with water cooling a ud3.. you just dont see it often since most people who watercool prefer a bigger mobo.
> 
> It is strange though that it wont even boot for you im sure theres something other then the mobo wrong. Maybe you need to bump cpu nb up one notch see if that helps. Have you also set CPU PLL to highest setting before it turns red? This has helped others stabilize aswell.
> 
> I think your having the same issue aswell dampmonkey just need some more volts to get 100% stable. Atleast your booting up though


Well it can boot at 4.9. Problem is, it would end up freezing as soon as you are on Windows even at 1.55 V core.

Anyway enough of the 5.00 GHz dream









I'm already eyeing a better MOBO for another build and this UD3 will end up as a Browsing Only Computer.. lol

at 4.8 Ghz, I'm already happy with it's performance to be honest. Considering the little amount the build costs.


----------



## OverThinkingit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Well i have the H100i and at first i bought silent blue led fans in push pushing it out of the case but that gives me very high temps.
> 
> Than i had problems with my standard fans that come included with the cooler and i got 2 new ones from Corsair but later i find out that it was not the fan but it was the software that was not correct so i have 4 of those fans now in push/pull in the top of my Corsair obsidian 650D. (it nearly fits tho)
> 
> At first i want silent fans but that is a no go because of the high density and fin array of the radiator, also the pump is very weak it puts only 12 gallons a hour that's only 48l/pm roughly.
> 
> So i would highly suggest to mount the radiator in the top of the case pushing air out, if you can run it in push/pull with high static optimized fans and you will get good cooling otherwise in only pull or push it simply will not cool that much better than most high end air coolers.
> 
> pushing air is always better than sucking air from it... i don't know how people can say pulling is better than pushing because i tried everything from pushing, pulling and push/pull and the last gives me the best performance, i saw once on the internet that was from Linus Techtips that it does not matter if push or pull -_- i went like REALLY? i tested that and under full load i got 5/8c difference.
> 
> Also he is raving about the Noctua fans, the NF-F12 well i can tell you this that my Cooler master sickleflow blue led perform much better, more quiet and has better static pressure and for the price of one Noctua i can buy almost 4 Cooler master fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong that i think Noctuas are not good because Noctuas have mush better build quality but in my opinion they are way overpriced, i saw several reviews and the Noctuas perform very good but the Sickleflows are much more for your dollar
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It all depends on how cold the air is what you push through your rad since that is the most important factor because, you can have the most powerful fans with the best radiator but if you pushing warm air through it you will never be able to keep it any cool.
> 
> Also like dmfree88 said, make sure you have an powerful fan as your exhaust that sucks warm air out of your case.


Yeah ive seen a lot of linus tech tips videos and he definitely has said that pull is the same thing as push. He did admit the push/pull configuration is better for a thicker radiator though... I think. Thanks, ill take your suggestions into consideration.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is really either or, it is a choice needed to be had by you, how good is air flow in your case? the goal is usually for your case to have Slightly positive pressure ( more air in then out ) as it helps keep your pc less dusty either way works push or pull. push/pull will not give you amazing results if you have good rad fans, on a thin rad.
> 
> the best reason i have heard to go push or pull is in pull it is easier to clean. and in pull more air is pulled through the rad unlike push in which it escapes from small gaps ( which is why they made fan gaskets )
> 
> so it is something for you to find. may have to do some testing both ways and find what works best for you


It looks that way. Once I have everything in front of me I'll do some testing. Thanks.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well it can boot at 4.9. Problem is, it would end up freezing as soon as you are on Windows even at 1.55 V core.
> 
> Anyway enough of the 5.00 GHz dream
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm already eyeing a better MOBO for another build and this UD3 will end up as a Browsing Only Computer.. lol
> 
> at 4.8 Ghz, I'm already happy with it's performance to be honest. Considering the little amount the build costs.


Really though, these chips dont scale linearly with performance when overclocking. I didn't see worthwhile performance gains going from 4.9 to 5ghz, but it did require a lot more voltage and a lot more cooling.

4.8ghz isnt as bad as you think! Unless you are dead set on the 5ghz club


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I think your having the same issue aswell dampmonkey just need some more volts to get 100% stable. Atleast your booting up though


Copious amounts of voltage seems to be the best 8350 overclocking strategy! Begin at the maximum recommended Vcore, then start adding to it!

Seriously though, my best results at 5ghz have been at 1.575. Ill probably go home and try 1.6 for giggles.









WARNING: DO NOT TRY AT HOME


----------



## dmfree88

people have pushed the 8350 to 7+ghz in the past on serious cooling. Im sure the voltage required for that was ridiculous. I dont think you can hurt the chip voltage-wise. Its whether or not you can cool it


----------



## hajnalka

I use waterblock EKWB to Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 3 4.8Ghz water temp max 50C only cool water CPU VRM and Northbridge VGA is not watercool Temperature is Coil in close the VRM is too hot max 90C too hard cooling VRM all coil is too much hot.Back side motherboard is too hot do not try go to over 4.8Ghz in FX-8350
5Ghz 24hour nonostop risk damage motherboard.
FSB limitation and northbridge thermal blocking overclock up to 4.8Ghz throttling cpu.


----------



## dmfree88

the Rev 3 is the one with the most problems it seems. I am not sure if the rev4 is any better or not but it does come with different heatsinks. My ud5 rev 1.1 has the same heatsinks as the rev3 ud3 so i may run into the same problems aswell unless my vrms dont heat up as much. I seem to have a hotter northbridge then the VRMs though. When I upgrade to water I will probably just go all the way and do a full loop if i can find good waterblocks.


----------



## glenquagmire

hey guys.....I have a question. What does a MOBO make a real difference in doing with respect to gaming or media? What I mean is I just bought a Gigabyte 990fxa-UD3 rev 4.0 and I am about to OC it. I have also kept an eye on Asus Crosshair V z-formula. What is the real difference and what will I notice. I prefer facts and not just, this is awesome and amazing feedback. Check my signature for my specs. Is it able to be waterblocked? What are some recommended MOBOs performance wise?

Thanks all!


----------



## dmfree88

you will see much more options as far as waterblocks go. Also has many more bios features including LLC on more then just cpu which is nice. Gives you the option to go SLI/Crossfire. Theres many other reasons aswell but thats just a few. Comparing a UD3 to a Crosshair isnt really fair


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> you will see much more options as far as waterblocks go. Also has many more bios features including LLC on more then just cpu which is nice. Gives you the option to go SLI/Crossfire. Theres many other reasons aswell but thats just a few. Comparing a UD3 to a Crosshair isnt really fair


Is it worth the $115 difference? Where will I notice the difference in performance if I took what I have exactly now (see signature specs) and just swapped it for the Xhair V?? Gaming? Media/Streaming? I am trying to determine if its worth it?


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> hey guys.....I have a question. What does a MOBO make a real difference in doing with respect to gaming or media? What I mean is I just bought a Gigabyte 990fxa-UD3 rev 4.0 and I am about to OC it. I have also kept an eye on Asus Crosshair V z-formula. What is the real difference and what will I notice. I prefer facts and not just, this is awesome and amazing feedback. Check my signature for my specs. Is it able to be waterblocked? What are some recommended MOBOs performance wise?
> 
> Thanks all!


For media or gaming, there will be no difference. Both have gigabet ethernet, USB 3.0 , Sata 3, and all the goodies of 990FX., The Asus will support a higher performance tri-sli/crossfire and has a better onboard sound processor, but other than that, the biggest differences lie in overclocking. People have had much better luck in overclocking the Asus, as the Gigabyte is highly suceptible to Vdroop issues.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Do they make water blocks for the heat sync or vrms on a ud3 rev 4.0?
> 
> I guess they don't make water blocks blocks for gigabyte 7950 rev 2.0....


they make block kits for some boards, they also make universal blocks. you can also use universal blocks on the GPUs and add some heatsinks to the ram/vrms

please note these are just examples and you can get several different typs from different manufactures
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Really though, these chips dont scale linearly with performance when overclocking. I didn't see worthwhile performance gains going from 4.9 to 5ghz, but it did require a lot more voltage and a lot more cooling.
> 
> 4.8ghz isnt as bad as you think! Unless you are dead set on the 5ghz club


i can feel / see a difference 4.8vs5ghz even in windows loading you can see the extra speed. granted we are talking about second(s) but hey it is faster, not placebo either you can see the differences in loading screens upon boot up it was pretty cool experiment for me, i may have to video it some day
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Copious amounts of voltage seems to be the best 8350 overclocking strategy! Begin at the maximum recommended Vcore, then start adding to it!
> 
> Seriously though, my best results at 5ghz have been at 1.575. Ill probably go home and try 1.6 for giggles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WARNING: DO NOT TRY AT HOME


yea most 5ghz need ~ 1.6-1.64v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> people have pushed the 8350 to 7+ghz in the past on serious cooling. Im sure the voltage required for that was ridiculous. I dont think you can hurt the chip voltage-wise. Its whether or not you can cool it


they had phase change ( 7ghz ~ is a ac which evap is the CPU block, in very rare cases uses a chiller to cool water ~ 7.5+ is usually L2N / LHe ) 5ghz is very easy to do on water and an open loop.also i have yet to see a board that could not take ( enthusiast level ) 5ghz volts with ACTIVE cooling on the VRMs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> I use waterblock EKWB to Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 3 4.8Ghz water temp max 50C only cool water CPU VRM and Northbridge VGA is not watercool Temperature is Coil in close the VRM is too hot max 90C too hard cooling VRM all coil is too much hot.Back side motherboard is too hot do not try go to over 4.8Ghz in FX-8350
> 5Ghz 24hour nonostop risk damage motherboard.
> FSB limitation and northbridge thermal blocking overclock up to 4.8Ghz throttling cpu.


why ? i have put 1.7v thorugh my chip and mobo with just a fan on the front of my vrms and it worked great.

that said i am also going to make a rear mounted waterblock for both VRMs and CPU socket, for poops and giggles. i think it will be an interesting project wont look pretty but come on.... it is behind the mobo

5ghz is fine even on air ( usually on air only posible if you have a golden golden golden chip [ yes i ment to say it 3 times..... take that seriously ] but is is very very unlikely, as for a h100 ... most h100s clocks = d14 clocks. h100s are very weak. best options if going AIO is the h220 hands down
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> hey guys.....I have a question. What does a MOBO make a real difference in doing with respect to gaming or media? What I mean is I just bought a Gigabyte 990fxa-UD3 rev 4.0 and I am about to OC it. I have also kept an eye on Asus Crosshair V z-formula. What is the real difference and what will I notice. I prefer facts and not just, this is awesome and amazing feedback. Check my signature for my specs. Is it able to be waterblocked? What are some recommended MOBOs performance wise?
> 
> Thanks all!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Is it worth the $115 difference? Where will I notice the difference in performance if I took what I have exactly now (see signature specs) and just swapped it for the Xhair V?? Gaming? Media/Streaming? I am trying to determine if its worth it?


for normal ppl no it is a waste of monies.

for OCN users. very very big differences.

although it should be said both will OC pretty darn close.

sabertooth is stronger due to the power delivery
CVFz is better for l2n
990fxa is a good price board. ( if speaking about the ud7 specifically then the ud7 has built in quadfire. )

i have not been able to touch my 3dmark11 graphics score with the ud7 VS the CVFz
the CVFz scored 29k i have been able to hit that one time and it was not stable.

the sabertooth and the CVFz both clocked pretty well although i did not have time to do my suicide runs on the CVFz on the saberkitty i was able to boot and bench @ 5.55ghz
either or are the best imo both have gone through hell and come out laughing.

CVFz takes more time then the saberkitty as there are a few more options. all in power delivery

ud3vs either depends on if you want to CFX or not. more gpus then you are now.

if you wanted to only oc and bench i would say it is a great upgrade if you just want to game and occasionally bench .... nah not worth it

i own all 3 and i much much much prefer the asus boards much easier to oc much more bios updates. much less junk bios, that said the u8d7 has been very capable of high ocs, once you get used to it ( as it is a rev 3 )

red1779 is a reviewer and has done reviews on all 3 boards i have mentioned. all 3 clocked similarly with the saberkitty inching out by 100mhz ( again due to power delivery ) there are a few other subtle differences as well. but not as important.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> For media or gaming, there will be no difference. Both have gigabet ethernet, USB 3.0 , Sata 3, and all the goodies of 990FX., The Asus will support a higher performance tri-sli/crossfire and has a better onboard sound processor, but other than that, the biggest differences lie in overclocking. People have had much better luck in overclocking the Asus, as the Gigabyte is highly suceptible to Vdroop issues.


the CVFz had pretty bad vdrop fyi just easily overcame
rog connect was really fun and useful though !~

also something cool guys my CVFz is going to my wife just today i got my 1229pgn chip, it is a reviews chip the 1229 batch got extremely cherry picked and is know for very high clocks at low volts cant wait to have the time to play with it


----------



## glenquagmire

Thanks MAN!!! MEGA MAN that is, lol.

I think I am going to go with the ASUS CROSSHAIR V z-FORMULA. Reasons are, better OC ability, better stability, made to run higher OC for 24/7 use, looks B/A, more so that it has flexibility to add additional Waterblocks than the UD3. My 80mm Rad and GT AP15 come in soon and all I will be able to cool is the CPU currently. My GPUs I will need to talk with you about to match a water block and also for the board if needed.

Is $215 for a Brand New Crosshair V z-form a good deal? Whats the best pricing you've seen?


----------



## Mega Man

mine i bought mine for $150 ( openbox ) and it was junk so i got a brand new one for same price lol ( you asked for best deal )

215 is pretty good though !~ feel free to let me know if you have any questions digi can take some time to learn !~!
~250 is average


----------



## glenquagmire

how did you get a new one for $150?


----------



## Mega Man

i complained until microcenter gave it to me as they should of since they didnt test it and it would not even post


----------



## glenquagmire

I see Asrock Extreme 9 I could get for $170 (including Shipping and Taxes). I am debating between Gigabyte UD7, Asrock Extreme 9 and Crosshair V Form-Z.


----------



## Mega Man

all are good boards. all have ups and downs.


----------



## glenquagmire

Ok, well after thought, I decided to get the Crosshair V Formula-Z MOBO and sell my 990FXA-UD3 Rev 4.0. I just sold my fans to get the matching Corsair AF 140 silent for the case and the Corsair SP 120 Performance for the radiator.


----------



## Lanlan

I've been looking into the UD3 for an 8350, and I've gathered that there have been a few revisions. I've also read that this mobo likes to throttle the CPU at times. Will the latest revision (4 i think) have this problem?


----------



## dmfree88

the VRM heatsinks are not the greatest. Throttling does happen with some but most have reported this with revision 3. Not alot of owners of the rev4 yet but most have been pretty happy with it.

I think most would agree though if you can afford it an upgrade to asus sabertooth would be much better. Or if your looking in the same price range the asus m5a99fx pro r2 or m5a99fx evo r2 are both about the same price range as the ud3 and generally have better results. The upgrade to the sabertooth would certainly be nicer though.

Either way the ud3 is not the greatest choice for an fx 8 core. Most prefer asus due to better overclockability. If you ever plan to hit 5ghz you would be happier with asus. if you never plan to go over 4.8 you would probably be ok (if your scoring a good deal on a rev4) IMO


----------



## Audiophile1178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> My ud5 rev 1.1 has the same heatsinks as the rev3 ud3 so i may run into the same problems aswell unless my vrms dont heat up as much. I seem to have a hotter northbridge then the VRMs though. When I upgrade to water I will probably just go all the way and do a full loop if i can find good waterblocks.


I've been meaning to post it up but I have my UD5 (Rev 3.0) board fully under water (Northbridge/Sourthbridge/VRMs). My case is so much cooler now! I say that as I don't have any fans inside my case.







It did require some modding of the mounting systems on the NB/SB water blocks, as well as, a good deal of modding to get the VRM heatsink on but all is good now.

What I used:

NB/SB (CHC-122):
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_241_591&products_id=23415

but should be able to use (CHC-125) on the NB/SB if you prefer:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_241_591&products_id=23414

NZL-V13B (4x) for the NB/SB Blocks:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_203_478&products_id=22082

MVRs (MVR-100):
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_401_597&products_id=24498

MVR-100 (140mm Heat Plate):
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_401_597&products_id=24497

Fujipoly Extreme System Builder Thermal Pad - 1/4 Sheet - 150 x 100 x 0.5 - Thermal Conductivity 11.0 W/mK:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16878/thr-164/Fujipoly_Extreme_System_Builder_Thermal_Pad_-_14_Sheet_-_150_x_100_x_05_-_Thermal_Conductivity_110_WmK.html?tl=g8c487s1288

This Fujipoly is very brittle and comes apart easily so getting this sheet is nice for any mistakes and will match up to the 140mm heatplate exactly once you cut it down to size. The 140mm heat plate will need to be cut/grinded down to 100mm long and 11mm wide. If I remember correctly it's 140mm long (that's a given) and 14mm wide (might have been 17mm). You'll need to cut all four sizes off evenly to keep the MVR-100 centered onto the plate as there's just enough room to get that bad boy on top of the MVR's and into that narrow path where they lie. This is the ONLY MVR block that'll work on the UD5 as I've done A LOT of research into this. Also, the MVR block will only work if you modify the plate but there's no modification that's needed to be done to the MVR-100 itself. Also, the CHC-122 is very particular on what type of barbs you use on it. I had XSPC barbs but the threads went too deep and they wouldn't screw all the way down. You'll need shallow threaded barbs on these guys for them to work. I ended up ordering Koolance's barbs and haven't had a problem.

For custom mounting you'll have to visit your hardware store and pick up some nuts and bolts. I can tell you what sizes you'll need if you're really interested.

*An important note: I can't stress this enough!!! Don't and I mean don't mount any of Koolance's waterblocks that I mentioned the way that they describe it. The inside diameter of their plastic washer is a hair smaller than the outsider diameter of their screw head. I found this out the hard way. I had the CHC-122 on my NB for only a few days and then one day I was sitting at my computer and head this slightly plastic sound on the inside of my case and then a second later my computer turn off and I had a burning smell. I guess over the course of a few days the screw head managed to slowly work its way through the plastic washer that was holding it onto the board and popped the NB Waterblock off of my NB chip and then killed the board. I RMA'd the board and got a replacement. All is good now. I modified the heck out of the mounting system and made it heavy duty so that there's no way any of the parts are coming off of where they are now.*

*Further Note: If you water block the SB you won't be able to use multiple GPU's. I only have 1 GPU so it's not a concern but slots 2 and 3 (below the top slot) will be blocked from the barbs sticking out of the top. If you're GPU's aren't that long then maybe you can get away with it but I have a 5870 and that thing is very long and ONLY fits in the top slot with the SB block so if you're using multiple GPU's then you probably won't want to water cool the SB. I did it just for the heck of it as it was getting quite hot since I don't have any fans inside my case and my NB blew up anyway causing me to have to redo everything so I said screw it and ordered the block as I initially didn't think that it would work but once I put a water block on my 5870 I had more than enough room.*


----------



## Lanlan

I'm a noob overclocker, I just want something to play around with. And I don't want a blue board, it needs to be red or black to match everything. I'm sort of considering the Sabertooth, brown isn't as bad as blue, but I'm not sure yet. I've been leaning towards the UD3 but I'm gonna get input from you smart people first.


----------



## Mega Man

all would be a good choice. depends on budget/what you want/ how your going to use it

for me
1 what i want
2 how i am going to use it
3 none ( dont care about the monies )

again imo more fun less hassle ocing on asus however very doable on gigabyte once you learn their quirks all are very similar and you end up with very similar results.


----------



## Lanlan

Money is sort of an issue, I'm far from rich. The BF4 beta was sort of a wake-up call that I need to upgrade, barely pushing 30 fps on low with my sig rig. I decided on an 8350 as my eventual upgrade a long time ago. I can't get my current CPU stable at 3.5ghz, so any decent OC'ing will make me happy. I don't have a set budget yet, but any 990FX (I need Crossfire) board that will let me OC a bit and that will look good in a red, black, and white color scheme (white and red NZXT Phantom on the way) will do. The less I spend, the better, obviously.


----------



## mus1mus

RED And BLACK? Isn't that scheme needing a Crosshair? LOL

Anyway, as mentioned above, 4.8 will very much be your limit on the UD3. It's not that bad at all if you ask me. But be sure definitely spend time on improving the VRM cooling if you do decide to buy one. A fan will do. If you plan to use an aftermarket cooler, then the stock fan from your 8350 package will be very useful. Or even the stock cooler itself can be modded as a VRM sink (If you are creative enough







and not willing to spend some cash on it)

But really, don't be like most of us guys who bought the UD3 and Wished we could have been better off spending some extra for the board (for the rev 3 at least). Seriously!


----------



## dmfree88

i got a ud5 and i still would have preferred the m5a99fx or the saberkitty.

I mean i really want a crosshair but thats even bigger price jump. Would fit your color scheme best though









They have some asrock boards that are pretty sweet looks-wise (fatality series) that fit the color scheme. But I am not too familiar with them. Sure look like decent boards though. not sure on price range of those either


----------



## Lanlan

The Crosshair would be perfect, but it's the most expensive 990fx board out there as far as I know. I can't justify spending that much more for a motherboard. I love messing with and tweaking stuff so the Crosshair would be a great toy, but it costs more than the CPU I'll be putting in it. I'm trying to get my upgrade as cheap as possible, hopefully less than $300 for the CPU and mobo.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> i got a ud5 and i still would have preferred the m5a99fx or the saberkitty.
> 
> I mean i really want a crosshair but thats even bigger price jump. Would fit your color scheme best though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They have some asrock boards that are pretty sweet looks-wise (fatality series) that fit the color scheme. But I am not too familiar with them. Sure look like decent boards though. not sure on price range of those either


Why, are you not happy with your UD5?

I have the UD5 rev 1.1 and i am very happy with it.

At first i had the UD3 rev 1.1 but it was not a good overclocking board because of the very bad VRM and the heat sink connection.

later i had to order the UD5 and i never regret it because i really like the aesthetics of the board like the clean PCB and the nice heat sinks on the VRM and NB.

I also like the simple bios and it clocks well, the max i benched was 5.2 so i am happy with this board.


----------



## dmfree88

just not very impressed overall. Its ok. I have the same revision as you. No problems with it personally, dont like how hot the vrms get but im adding fans for that soon so should help.

Check out what i found though:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ASUS-Sabertooth-990FX-ATX-Motherboard-AM3-AMD-990FX-SLI-CrossFireX-/310761041894?pt=Motherboards&hash=item485acd2fe6

7 left whos gonna get em? I wish i could


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lanlan*
> 
> The Crosshair would be perfect, but it's the most expensive 990fx board out there as far as I know. I can't justify spending that much more for a motherboard. I love messing with and tweaking stuff so the Crosshair would be a great toy, but it costs more than the CPU I'll be putting in it. I'm trying to get my upgrade as cheap as possible, hopefully less than $300 for the CPU and mobo.


If you are leaning towards an eight-core set-up, you can probably drop down your CPU choice to an 8320. Same eight-core, fairly the same overclocking potential, and cheaper. Then lean towards a better board than the ud3. Asus has a UD3 counterpart in terms of price. Maybe a bit higher but definitely better.


----------



## Lanlan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> If you are leaning towards an eight-core set-up, you can probably drop down your CPU choice to an 8320. Same eight-core, fairly the same overclocking potential, and cheaper. Then lean towards a better board than the ud3. Asus has a UD3 counterpart in terms of price. Maybe a bit higher but definitely better.


I almost pulled the trigger on an 8320 for around $140 last week, but I had second thoughts. I don't wanna have buyer's remorse, I'm gonna make this thing my baby.


----------



## dmfree88

Get that rebuilt sabertooth i posted + 8350, you wont regret it







. I feel like theres always a little remorse getting a 8320. then you wonder, what could have been? since you know the 8350 would have went just a LITTLE further. All in all though they are the same chips but just require less voltage for an 8350. So really you cant go wrong pending your expectations or goals.


----------



## Lanlan

But it's so damn ugly! Maybe they were in cahoots with Noctua when they made that thing.

I don't mean to be superficial but this thing needs to look the part. Maybe I'll look up builds with the Sabertooth. Any big difference between the different revision of that board?


----------



## dmfree88

im not sure personally.. maybe send that company a message on ebay ask them if its revision 2 or not. I think r2 is much better for a few reasons I have heard. Not sure what they are though


----------



## Lanlan

After looking up builds in the white and red NZXT Phantom, I want the Crosshair now. Is there any real reason to choose the Formula Z over the regular Formula? I hate being so indecisive over this stuff. Sway my opinion, guys


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lanlan*
> 
> But it's so damn ugly! Maybe they were in cahoots with Noctua when they made that thing.
> 
> I don't mean to be superficial but this thing needs to look the part. Maybe I'll look up builds with the Sabertooth. Any big difference between the different revision of that board?


LOL yeah i totally agree with you man









At first i was looking at the sabertooth but than i saw it in real live i would never buy that because it simply looks hideous.

Maybe its a better overclocker but as far as i seen they are pretty matched to the UD5.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lanlan*
> 
> I almost pulled the trigger on an 8320 for around $140 last week, but I had second thoughts. I don't wanna have buyer's remorse, I'm gonna make this thing my baby.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lanlan*
> 
> But it's so damn ugly! Maybe they were in cahoots with Noctua when they made that thing.
> 
> I don't mean to be superficial but this thing needs to look the part. Maybe I'll look up builds with the Sabertooth. Any big difference between the different revision of that board?


ge the r2.0
r1.0 has core unlocker and something else you loose that is unneeded on fx
r2.0 has direct bios button + usb bios flash ( can flash bios without cpu/ram )
r2.0/gen3 has pcie3.0 vio add on chip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lanlan*
> 
> After looking up builds in the white and red NZXT Phantom, I want the Crosshair now. Is there any real reason to choose the Formula Z over the regular Formula? I hate being so indecisive over this stuff. Sway my opinion, guys


yes without the time to explain
1 formula is not sold any more and EOL
2 z has been rebuilt and much better

go for the z if you go this route
there is a microcenter in your state go there
what i did is i got an open box and the add on warranty
the open box failed ( as i new it would ) and would not post i tried everything bios update and clear ext

so i returned it they tried to charge me full price and i just complained " not my fault you all did not do proper testing. and i bought the warranty !~"

that is my i got it for 150 story

if none are in stock open box
you still get 40 off ~

if you can swing it i recommend 8350 over the 8320

late for work so gotta run


----------



## glenquagmire

What dictates how much ram in gb and speed a person should buy? How do I know if I need or want 2x4GB or 2x8gb or even 4x4gb or 4x8gb? If my board supports 2133, would you get 1866 cl 8 or 2133 cl 9? Thanks....

I just bought a crosshair v formula z.


----------



## dmfree88

you want high clock(1866,2133,2400) low timings(CL)... 2133 cl9 would be better over 1866 cl8... cl8 is better timings but likely if you got the 2133 it would run at 1866 cl8 with no problems vs may be more difficult the other way around.

generally its actually better for your PC to use less ram sticks. 2x8gb or 2x4gb would probably be best for most, most the time you wont use more then 8 gb but better to have some buffer room.

you also want the lowest voltage ram.. generally they can all be pushed up past 1.65 volts but if you get 1.5v or lower ram that runs at 1866/2133 stock you will be able to push them further. (1.5v 1866 ram will run lower timings at 1.65v or higher clock sometimes with the same timings). Its a big give and take game for clock vs timings. but the highest clock lowest timing lowest voltage ram is generally best. G.Skill titans are currently top dawg and hold the record for the highest clock


----------



## Lowlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> What dictates how much ram in gb and speed a person should buy? How do I know if I need or want 2x4GB or 2x8gb or even 4x4gb or 4x8gb? If my board supports 2133, would you get 1866 cl 8 or 2133 cl 9? Thanks....
> 
> I just bought a crosshair v formula z.


[Official] ASUS Crosshair V Formula (990FX) club


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> What dictates how much ram in gb and speed a person should buy? How do I know if I need or want 2x4GB or 2x8gb or even 4x4gb or 4x8gb? If my board supports 2133, would you get 1866 cl 8 or 2133 cl 9? Thanks....
> 
> I just bought a crosshair v formula z.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> you want high clock(1866,2133,2400) low timings(CL)... 2133 cl9 would be better over 1866 cl8... cl8 is better timings but likely if you got the 2133 it would run at 1866 cl8 with no problems vs may be more difficult the other way around.
> 
> generally its actually better for your PC to use less ram sticks. 2x8gb or 2x4gb would probably be best for most, most the time you wont use more then 8 gb but better to have some buffer room.
> 
> you also want the lowest voltage ram.. generally they can all be pushed up past 1.65 volts but if you get 1.5v or lower ram that runs at 1866/2133 stock you will be able to push them further. (1.5v 1866 ram will run lower timings at 1.65v or higher clock sometimes with the same timings). Its a big give and take game for clock vs timings. but the highest clock lowest timing lowest voltage ram is generally best. G.Skill titans are currently top dawg and hold the record for the highest clock


The above are true. However you gotta consider the prices of both.

As you take a look at it, given the same brand, and series, that 1866 cl 8 is almost identical to a 2133 cl 9. both use the same chip under their skin. really identical. albeit one was clocked higher with looser timings to maintain the same voltage requirement.

That is why you can clock the 2133 cl 9 down to 1866 cl 8 with the same voltages. And that is also true for the 1866 cl 8. You can clock it to 2133 cl 9 at 1.5 volts.

But one must be priced higher than the other. And I believe it must be the 2133 cl 9 that is.

Just a marketing strategy on the manufacturers' part. Remember most people buy ram sticks for their MHz rating and a little about their timings.










If choosing between those two, say between Gskill 1866 cl 8 and that 2133 cl 9, choose the lower priced between the two. And also remember, 2133 is not readily supported on FX boards without overclocking the FSB. While 1866 will run natively at default.

Choosing the GB of the RAM will go down to
1. Preferred GB a user wants. " Ohh, I got a 32 GB of RAM, my system is better than Yours! " you know what I mean








2. How much RAM a user really needs. Depending on the work scope of a User, most can get away with 8 or 16 GB. 4 is alright but that's already a minimum OS requirement nowadays. While others (Video encoders and graphics oriented works) need more than 32 GB for their Workstations.


----------



## dmfree88

8gb of gskill ripjaws and i can convert 4 2 hours videos faster then i can burn them to a disc (granted the disc is a rewriteable 2x speed so its slow burn).

Still fairly impressive compared to my intel dual core that would do the same project in 8 hours with the same amount of ram.

The truth is you probably wouldn't see a major improvement vs a decent set of cheaper ram as far as day to day use and you probably wont ever need more then 16gb.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> 8gb of gskill ripjaws and i can convert 4 2 hours videos faster then i can burn them to a disc (granted the disc is a rewriteable 2x speed so its slow burn).
> 
> Still fairly impressive compared to my intel dual core that would do the same project in 8 hours with the same amount of ram.
> 
> The truth is you probably wouldn't see a major improvement vs a decent set of cheaper ram as far as day to day use and you probably wont ever need more then 16gb.


I gotta cut it to you mate about 16GB and that you won't need more.

Working in a graphics company, we have all our workstations with 16GB of RAMS. Doing just Photoshop, 16 GB of RAM and people still have PC crashes due to an error stated "Not Enough System Memory"

Using a 64-bit Application to maximize the installed RAM, and you get that error. On Photoshop. Imagine that on Video Editing.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> you want high clock(1866,2133,2400) low timings(CL)... 2133 cl9 would be better over 1866 cl8... cl8 is better timings but likely if you got the 2133 it would run at 1866 cl8 with no problems vs may be more difficult the other way around.
> 
> generally its actually better for your PC to use less ram sticks. 2x8gb or 2x4gb would probably be best for most, most the time you wont use more then 8 gb but better to have some buffer room.
> 
> you also want the lowest voltage ram.. generally they can all be pushed up past 1.65 volts but if you get 1.5v or lower ram that runs at 1866/2133 stock you will be able to push them further. (1.5v 1866 ram will run lower timings at 1.65v or higher clock sometimes with the same timings). Its a big give and take game for clock vs timings. but the highest clock lowest timing lowest voltage ram is generally best. G.Skill titans are currently top dawg and hold the record for the highest clock


one nice thing is the amount of options you have as you have a CVFz both saberkitty and CVFz both will run 2400 at stock fsb IF your chip can handle it. a few ppl hae not been able to do it most can do at least 2 dims and some can do all 4 at 2400 !~

the above quote is good advice !~ but he refers to titans? i think he ment trident-x titan is the gskill brand SSD?

not all ram is equal some ram use same chips but that does not mean that lower speed rated ram will oc to the higher speed. it can however as with any silicone lottery there is a chance it will not.

some ram is marketed at the lower speed because the chips did not meet the bin requirements this is more and more true the higher speed you go the 3000
for example
these or these
are very very very rare that the memory chips used can handle these speeds, so they are binned accordingly or downgraded to the next lower speed in which they pass what ever test the manufacture uses to bin the chips.

sometimes they will rebrand chips if they have a surplus ( for example amd rebranded 8350s as 8320s where low on stock so they just made them 8320s instead granted this is a cpu but same thing can happen in ram )

i always recommend buying the fastest you can afford as you then can downclock it, tighten timings ( usually ) and possibly oc further where as the lower speed ram it is not guaranteed and well you may be that much more limited in your oc ( if you use fsb to oc )

this is a good kit i have seen it for 69, but that price is really low and i would not expect to see them that low soon
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231638
nice thing is 4gb sticks ( easier on imc ) and CL9 ( all the 8gb sticks i have seen are all cl10 )
i really like this kit and if you wait you can usually ketch it on sale for ~ 110
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589
( they price jumped again last time i looked they were at 150..... you may not be able to get 110 )

is it me or did ram just jump in price.... again .... it seems all ram is skyrocketing .... again... wow...


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> you probably wont ever need more then 16gb.


A man once said that no one would ever need more than 64K of memory. Just because you may not need it now does not mean that you will not need it in the future.


----------



## glenquagmire

I have been Eye Balling the 2x4gb 2133 CL9 Ripjaws for $72 on sale.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231689

I agree that 2x8gb 2400 mhz CL 10 would be ideal but isnt the Trident 2x4gb 2400 CL10 the same as just OC'ing 2133 CL9 RIpjaws? Really then it just comes down to 2x4gb or 2x8gb?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> one nice thing is the amount of options you have as you have a CVFz both saberkitty and CVFz both will run 2400 at stock fsb IF your chip can handle it. a few ppl hae not been able to do it most can do at least 2 dims and some can do all 4 at 2400 !~
> 
> the above quote is good advice !~ but he refers to titans? i think he ment trident-x titan is the gskill brand SSD?
> 
> not all ram is equal some ram use same chips but that does not mean that lower speed rated ram will oc to the higher speed. it can however as with any silicone lottery there is a chance it will not.


Mine can't even do a 1600 at 8-8-8-24 even on 1.75V But can get away with 2400 11-13-11 at 1.65. There are just things limiting your OC on the RAMS. Timings and Proper Knowledge of the chips used on a particular Stick.
Different chip model react to different timings. This is a good source for that. http://www.ocaholic.ch/modules/smartsection/category.php?categoryid=2
Quote:


> some ram is marketed at the lower speed because the chips did not meet the bin requirements this is more and more true the higher speed you go the 3000
> for example
> these or these
> are very very very rare that the memory chips used can handle these speeds, so they are binned accordingly or downgraded to the next lower speed in which they pass what ever test the manufacture uses to bin the chips.
> 
> sometimes they will rebrand chips if they have a surplus ( for example amd rebranded 8350s as 8320s where low on stock so they just made them 8320s instead granted this is a cpu but same thing can happen in ram )
> 
> i always recommend buying the fastest you can afford as you then can downclock it, tighten timings ( usually ) and possibly oc further where as the lower speed ram it is not guaranteed and well you may be that much more limited in your oc ( if you use fsb to oc )
> 
> this is a good kit i have seen it for 69, but that price is really low and i would not expect to see them that low soon
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231638
> nice thing is 4gb sticks ( easier on imc ) and CL9 ( all the 8gb sticks i have seen are all cl10 )
> i really like this kit and if you wait you can usually ketch it on sale for ~ 110
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589
> ( they price jumped again last time i looked they were at 150..... you may not be able to get 110 )
> 
> is it me or did ram just jump in price.... again .... it seems all ram is skyrocketing .... again... wow...


There's thread in here that focused on the RAM prices after a Fire Incident in a Hynix Factory in China http://www.extremetech.com/computing/166775-ram-pricewatch-memory-spikes-in-wake-of-hynix-fire-but-for-how-long.


----------



## glenquagmire

So if I bought 2x8gb or bought 4x4gb both with with same mhz and cl, would I get the exact same benefit? Example 2x8gb are more expensive than buying 4x4gb 2133 cl 9 ripjaw.


----------



## mus1mus

2X8GB will perform better Latency wise. And File Handling wise. I might be wrong but that's how I understand it. It's also easier to OC if you need to using 2 sticks.


----------



## glenquagmire

Dang it! Now I have to wait for a 2x8gb sale! Ahhhhh!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I have been Eye Balling the 2x4gb 2133 CL9 Ripjaws for $72 on sale.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231689
> 
> I agree that 2x8gb 2400 mhz CL 10 would be ideal but isnt the Trident 2x4gb 2400 CL10 the same as just OC'ing 2133 CL9 RIpjaws? Really then it just comes down to 2x4gb or 2x8gb?


it very well can be IF they will oc. you have a reasonable chance they will. however again silicone lottery plays into it as does your imc. also silicone lottery


----------



## glenquagmire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it very well can be IF they will oc. you have a reasonable chance they will. however again silicone lottery plays into it as does your imc. also silicone lottery


Same question I posted above, would 2x8gb yield the same as 4x4gb if mhz and CL are the same?


----------



## dmfree88

2x8gb would be better performance wise from my understanding. only because you can overclock them further as you dont have 4 sticks running on the mobo. Mobo can overclock 2 sticks further then 4. correct me if im wrong but iirc 2x8>4x4 same as 2x4>4x2


----------



## glenquagmire

that seems to be general consensus


----------



## mus1mus

Using 4 sticks meant dividing the available dual channel bandwidth of the memory controller. 2 sticks will benefit most since they don't have to share anything of that.

About silicon lottery, claims have been made that G.Skills were really doing a lot of binning on their memory. Which will also mean a lesser chance of getting a bad memory from them.

You can read reviews about them and compare them to Kingstons.

Even my Kingston Genesis 1866 9-11-9-27 can clock at 2400 11-13-11-33-CR1 at a Trfc of 110 ns from a stock of 160 ns with a little bump on the voltage. Not a very good timing but that is just their characteristic.

Corsairs for example, have a basic timing of 8-8-8-24 for their 1600s. OC'ing them to 2133 10-10-10-30 is very easy.

Ocaholic shows a graph of the bandwidth-timings and voltages on their reviews. I read them and followed the suggestion and there I got a grasp of my memory OC.

But like I said, just read about the consensus on the certain chip. And be prepared to do some tests to get a sweet result off your choices.

OC the memory must also be done after you found your stable CPU OC. Don't mix them. To avoid further confusion.


----------



## glenquagmire

saw this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrrTkbyjDHk


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> saw this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrrTkbyjDHk


Good video.

If i were you i just go with 8GB G.Skill RipjawsX 1866 cl8 i have the same and i clocked it at 2400mhz 1.65 volts!

8GB is plenty for everyday usage, the matter is if you want more mhz or low latency, because i did notice that in games or windows low latency feels more snappy than high speed little higher latency RAM so it depends on what you want.

But why not get the best of both worlds? 1866mhz cl8 1.5V RAM would please you very much because of the high speed and very low latency.

You can clock higher if you want because of the low latency and voltage you have plenty head room and if you are lucky like me you can run it at 2400mhz with decent timings.

Also i was looking at the G.Skill page and the faster RAM is actually rated as 1333mhz 1.5V RAM so if you buy 2133mhz cl9 RAM and pay more for it i would definitely go for 1866 cl8 because that probably clocks at the same speed maybe even lower latency's than 2133.

It all depends on if you are lucky or not, its the same with the CPU.

But if i buy new RAM for myself i would definitely go for G.Skill because they have simply the best RAM in my opinion and i like the aesthetics of them the most, so there you have it 8 GB is more then enough for everyday usage but if you are doing like rendering, Photoshop etc. etc. you maybe need more.

Good luck buddy and let us know if you want more info


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Good video.
> 
> If i were you i just go with 8GB G.Skill RipjawsX 1866 cl8 i have the same and i clocked it at 2400mhz 1.65 volts!
> 
> 8GB is plenty for everyday usage, the matter is if you want more mhz or low latency, because i did notice that in games or windows low latency feels more snappy than high speed little higher latency RAM so it depends on what you want.
> 
> But why not get the best of both worlds? 1866mhz cl8 1.5V RAM would please you very much because of the high speed and very low latency.
> 
> You can clock higher if you want because of the low latency and voltage you have plenty head room and if you are lucky like me you can run it at 2400mhz with decent timings.
> 
> Also i was looking at the G.Skill page and the faster RAM is actually rated as 1333mhz 1.5V RAM so if you buy 2133mhz cl9 RAM and pay more for it i would definitely go for 1866 cl8 because that probably clocks at the same speed maybe even lower latency's than 2133.
> 
> It all depends on if you are lucky or not, its the same with the CPU.
> 
> But if i buy new RAM for myself i would definitely go for G.Skill because they have simply the best RAM in my opinion and i like the aesthetics of them the most, so there you have it 8 GB is more then enough for everyday usage but if you are doing like rendering, Photoshop etc. etc. you maybe need more.
> 
> Good luck buddy and let us know if you want more info


Yup, for gaming your timings matter more than your speed, the only exception to this is with APUs, where having higher speed RAM makes a large difference in performance.

Wonder how RAM prices are doing, they were already slowly going up before that plant had a fire...HOLY CRAP, my RAM is up $60. RAM prices are so freaking unstable.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Good video.
> 
> If i were you i just go with 8GB G.Skill RipjawsX 1866 cl8 i have the same and i clocked it at 2400mhz 1.65 volts!
> 
> 8GB is plenty for everyday usage, the matter is if you want more mhz or low latency, because i did notice that in games or windows low latency feels more snappy than high speed little higher latency RAM so it depends on what you want.
> 
> But why not get the best of both worlds? 1866mhz cl8 1.5V RAM would please you very much because of the high speed and very low latency.
> 
> You can clock higher if you want because of the low latency and voltage you have plenty head room and if you are lucky like me you can run it at 2400mhz with decent timings.
> 
> Also i was looking at the G.Skill page and the faster RAM is actually rated as 1333mhz 1.5V RAM so if you buy 2133mhz cl9 RAM and pay more for it i would definitely go for 1866 cl8 because that probably clocks at the same speed maybe even lower latency's than 2133.
> 
> It all depends on if you are lucky or not, its the same with the CPU.
> 
> But if i buy new RAM for myself i would definitely go for G.Skill because they have simply the best RAM in my opinion and i like the aesthetics of them the most, so there you have it 8 GB is more then enough for everyday usage but if you are doing like rendering, Photoshop etc. etc. you maybe need more.
> 
> Good luck buddy and let us know if you want more info


I may be wrong on this but, you can try testing this:
Given the same scenario,

1866 8-9-9-27 CR1 http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-14900cl8d-8gbxm will yield the same performance as a 2133 9-10-9-28 CR1 http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-17000cl9d-4gbxmd-

Why?

That 266 MHz loss at frequency will be leveled up by the tighter timings. Maybe, again maybe, that 2133 will offer better bandwidth but by a little margin. But the thing you will notice is that the Latency on the 2133 will also be higher.

I did my test on mine. at 257 FSB and memory multiplier of 8 and 9.33 to get 2056 and 2400 ram speeds respectively. Only the timings are changed.

2056 is at 9-11-9-27 CR1 http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/lightbox/post/20863671/id/1673421
2400 at 11-13-11-33 CR1 http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/lightbox/post/20931383/id/1688231

The example even show 2000MHz and 2400MHz.

But here you can see that the only advantage 2400 has over the 2000 was that it has higher bandwidth. But looking at the deficit of 400MHz, you can say the margin ain't that huge.

Unless you do this, http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/lightbox/post/20931383/id/1688232
2400 at a timing of 10-12-10-30-CR1. Which I would already consider a proper RAM overclock.

You'll get a better image if you start testing yours.

That Gskill 1866 8-9-9 can do 2133 9-10-10 without a bump on voltage. and 2400 10-11-11-33 with a little help of voltage.
and they will scale up your scores considerably since you need different set-up for all of them. But try it at 257 FSB and you'll see what I am talking about.







2056 at 8-9-9-24 will be almost equal to a 2400 10-11-11.

In my opinion, A PROPER RAM OC IS WHEN YOU JUMP 267 MHz up from your base without even changing the Timings. Just the voltages to compensate. Just like this. http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/lightbox/post/20863671/id/1673404 That's a lot closer to 2400's score.


----------



## glenquagmire

Oh baby.....

Wait a sec....I still have to pick up the girls from daycare! Well good thing I have the roof rack to for them to hang onto.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I may be wrong on this but, you can try testing this:
> Given the same scenario,
> 
> 1866 8-9-9-27 CR1 http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-14900cl8d-8gbxm will yield the same performance as a 2133 9-10-9-28 CR1 http://www.gskill.com/en/product/f3-17000cl9d-4gbxmd-
> 
> Why?
> 
> That 266 MHz loss at frequency will be leveled up by the tighter timings. Maybe, again maybe, that 2133 will offer better bandwidth but by a little margin. But the thing you will notice is that the Latency on the 2133 will also be higher.
> 
> I did my test on mine. at 257 FSB and memory multiplier of 8 and 9.33 to get 2056 and 2400 ram speeds respectively. Only the timings are changed.
> 
> 2056 is at 9-11-9-27 CR1 http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/lightbox/post/20863671/id/1673421
> 2400 at 11-13-11-33 CR1 http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/lightbox/post/20931383/id/1688231
> 
> The example even show 2000MHz and 2400MHz.
> 
> But here you can see that the only advantage 2400 has over the 2000 was that it has higher bandwidth. But looking at the deficit of 400MHz, you can say the margin ain't that huge.
> 
> Unless you do this, http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/lightbox/post/20931383/id/1688232
> 2400 at a timing of 10-12-10-30-CR1. Which I would already consider a proper RAM overclock.
> 
> You'll get a better image if you start testing yours.
> 
> That Gskill 1866 8-9-9 can do 2133 9-10-10 without a bump on voltage. and 2400 10-11-11-33 with a little help of voltage.
> and they will scale up your scores considerably since you need different set-up for all of them. But try it at 257 FSB and you'll see what I am talking about.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2056 at 8-9-9-24 will be almost equal to a 2400 10-11-11.
> 
> In my opinion, A PROPER RAM OC IS WHEN YOU JUMP 267 MHz up from your base without even changing the Timings. Just the voltages to compensate. Just like this. http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/lightbox/post/20863671/id/1673404 That's a lot closer to 2400's score.


Ye i understand what you mean.

The thing is that it depends on what you are running and what application because some benefit from low timings and others high mhz with loose timings.

What i did notice is that when i had my RAM at stock windows and applications loads faster but the performance was less than when i have it at 2400 11-11-11-28 at 1.65 volts.

Adding volts is not that big of an issue because some 1866 running at 1.65 volts and even faster RAM is 1.65 at default as well.

I did notice an very big improvement when i am transferring big files like movies or backups to my other drive, WD scorpio black 1TB.

In idle my RAM sits down at 20/25% depends on how many programs i am running, but when i transfer the files to my HDD it loads to 48/50% sometimes and that is more than when i set them to 1866

also the speed is incredible compare to stock speeds.

In my opinion it depends on your needs and what you want really, the best is the best from both worlds and i think i have that now because everything loads pretty fast and Winrar is unpacking faster than i ever saw so i am happy for now


----------



## mus1mus

are you still running it on 2400 11-11-11-33 CR2??

It's a bit strange that you can't run it at CR1 mate.

Experiment on it a bit and I can say you'll still get better number off yours on CR1.







though it's a bit of a PITA if your system is already running nicely really. But who wouldn't want to have it better right?

But seriously mate, I have tried running mine at 2133 without altering my standard XMP profile. even tightening my secondary timings and that made everything snappier, better, faster than the stock of 1866.
But that meant trouble for me since the CPU-NB is already at a high value of 267. I can only run it at 4.667Ghz. At 4.8, I need to drop down my timings to 10-12-10-30 CR1 to be stable. Maybe more voltage on the RAMS and I can stabilize it but, at a base of 1.65, I don't have enough headroom to do it.

Maybe at 2133, you can do it without leaving your CL at 8. Maybe 8-10-9-27 will even work for you.









I envy that RAM.


----------



## mus1mus

For the Guys here already doing and already have the proper knowledge with watercooling, I know you can enlighten me here.

I am planning on a custom loop.









The items I am looking at:

1. XSPC RAYSTORM CPU Block
2. XSPC RASA 750 Pump (and Reservoir)
3. XSPC RS 360 Radiator

I could get the RS360 in KIT form for about $50 less but I really like that Raystorm Block. Lights








Or even shell out some extra to get the RX Radiator. I just need to know what to expect from doing it.

1. RX240 Rads cost more than 2/3 compared to the RS360s. How much of an improvement will it make in real life?
2. RX360 Rads cost more than twice than the RS360s.

Will my preferred set-up be enough for an FX to 5Ghz.(assuming I can get there







) and maybe a GTX 580 on the same loop?

I already set my mind that if that RS360 can't handle a CPU and GPU (or two) I can just add another RS240 and still come out spending less than getting the RX.

This is just on the planning stage and I can just source these out by the pieces.

Any input guys?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> For the Guys here already doing and already have the proper knowledge with watercooling, I know you can enlighten me here.
> 
> I am planning on a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The items I am looking at:
> 
> 1. XSPC RAYSTORM CPU Block
> 2. XSPC RASA 750 Pump (and Reservoir)
> 3. XSPC RS 360 Radiator
> 
> I could get the RS360 in KIT form for about $50 less but I really like that Raystorm Block. Lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or even shell out some extra to get the RX Radiator. I just need to know what to expect from doing it.
> 
> 1. RX240 Rads cost more than 2/3 compared to the RS360s. How much of an improvement will it make in real life?
> 2. RX360 Rads cost more than twice than the RS360s.
> 
> Will my preferred set-up be enough for an FX to 5Ghz.(assuming I can get there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and maybe a GTX 580 on the same loop?
> 
> I already set my mind that if that RS360 can't handle a CPU and GPU (or two) I can just add another RS240 and still come out spending less than getting the RX.
> 
> This is just on the planning stage and I can just source these out by the pieces.
> 
> Any input guys?


I actually have a Raystorm on my FX-6350 and a Raystorm GPU WB on my 650ti Boost. I use a DDC pump with the XSPC res and it works quite well. Not quite familiar with the 750 pump, but some of the packaged pumps that various companies sell are less powerful than a DDC. Of course, if you want a kick ass pump, go with a D5 vario or fixed. I wish I still had mine. There are LOTS more options with that pump now from reseviors you can screw it right on to or tops that improve the flow rate. If you are planning on including a GPU WB in the loop, definitely go with a 360 rad. You will not regret it. And it high clocks are your goal, definitely go with a 360 rad, hell a 480 if you have room.









The DDC and D5 are sold by everyone from Swiftech to Auqacomputing, and it is hard to go wrong with them.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> I actually have a Raystorm on my FX-6350 and a Raystorm GPU WB on my 650ti Boost. I use a DDC pump with the XSPC res and it works quite well. Not quite familiar with the 750 pump, but some of the packaged pumps that various companies sell are less powerful than a DDC. Of course, if you want a kick ass pump, go with a D5 vario or fixed. I wish I still had mine. There are LOTS more options with that pump now from reseviors you can screw it right on to or tops that improve the flow rate. If you are planning on including a GPU WB in the loop, definitely go with a 360 rad. You will not regret it. And it high clocks are your goal, definitely go with a 360 rad, hell a 480 if you have room.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The DDC and D5 are sold by everyone from Swiftech to Auqacomputing, and it is hard to go wrong with them.


That 750 I believe is the best pump XSPC offers. I was wrong. There's still the much more expensive D5 from XSPC. It's a 750 liters per hour on flow. http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-x2o-750-reservoir-pump/2/

I guess I need to look for better pumps then.

It was a 360 Rad but it,s nowhere the price of their denser RX series. I just hope the performance won't be twice as low compared to the RXs.

Thanks mate


----------



## glenquagmire

I have the XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240. Selling the ex240 fans and fan grills. Just bought the kit.

Selling the mentioned above and my G Skillz 2x4GB 2x4GB 1866 cl 8 and Gigabyte 990fxa ud3 rev 4 4 all also also just bought.


----------



## glenquagmire

Do I need to do anything to my mobo i am selling before I take it out of the case?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That 750 I believe is the best pump XSPC offers. It's a 750 liters per hour on flow. http://www.pureoverclock.com/Review-detail/xspc-x2o-750-reservoir-pump/2/
> 
> I guess I need to look for better pumps then.
> 
> It was a 360 Rad but it,s nowhere the price of their denser RX series. I just hope the performance won't be twice as low compared to the RXs.
> 
> Thanks mate


It looks like it MIGHT be a Laing DC12-400. Possibly. I don't really know \much about that particular pump. And if I recall correctly head pressure is better than Gph. The pump with that XSPC kit is 1.8m, a DDC will be around 3.5. @12V. They can be reasonably quiet too. OH YEAH, that is my I don't have a D5 anymore.







Loud little bastard.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> It looks like it MIGHT be a Laing DC12-400. Possibly. I don't really know \much about that particular pump. And if I recall correctly head pressure is better than Gph. The pump with that XSPC kit is 1.8m, a DDC will be around 3.5. @12V. They can be reasonably quiet too. OH YEAH, that is my I don't have a D5 anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loud little bastard.


I was wrong on the 750, it's still a beginner pump with a respectable performance but nowhere near their D5 pumps.

Thanks for the info mate.

I guess I'll be fine with the RS360 then. I can just add what I can save for not getting the RX to buy a better pump. But I must say, that 750 pump reservoir combo looks good..
lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I have the XSPC Raystorm 750 EX240. Selling the ex240 fans and fan grills. Just bought the kit.
> 
> Selling the mentioned above and my G Skillz 2x4GB 2x4GB 1866 cl 8 and Gigabyte 990fxa ud3 rev 4 4 all also also just bought.





















You should try out things before jumping into conclusions. Anyway it seems like money is not of a problem for you.

Overclocking wise, You shouldn't expect you can get comparable results to others just because you are using the same gear.

Take your time to learn mate.

That's the essence of it all. And it'll be fun knowing it all while experimenting.


----------



## glenquagmire

I am keeping the block pump and everything else. It was my first wc kit. I bought the 80mm monsta rad to use in place of the ex240 and corsair sp120 performance fans in place of the XSPC Fans. I'm leaning and it's fun. A small lose isn't bad and I buy everything on sale or with rebates.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I am keeping the block pump and everything else. It was my first wc kit. I bought the 80mm monsta rad to use in place of the ex240 and corsair sp120 performance fans in place of the XSPC Fans. I'm leaning and it's fun. A small lose isn't bad and I buy everything on sale or with rebates.


You are lucky to get those offers mate.

I found this http://martinsliquidlab.org/ seems to be helpful.

This is my choice for the fans http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=118 I have one of this and it can really push a lot of air. Which is needed for dense Rads.

I'm sticking with my rad choice I guess. slim form. I just have to verify whether that 360 can perform better than the denser RX240.


----------



## glenquagmire

I actually was buying the the gentle typhoon ap15 120mm for the rad since they have very high recommendations but they were were on back order. I went with the corsair sp120 performance with static pressure over 3 even though not not as silent. I keep my computer behind my tv wall in a laundry room under an air vent so so I don't hear it anyway.

Plus I am going for all red and black theme.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I actually was buying the the gentle typhoon ap15 120mm for the rad since they have very high recommendations but they were were on back order. I went with the corsair sp120 performance with static pressure over 3 even though not not as silent. I keep my computer behind my tv wall in a laundry room under an air vent so so I don't hear it anyway.
> 
> Plus I am going for all red and black theme.


I found a store on my area that sells GTs for like $5 more than the Silverstones. But I haven't had any experience with them. Maybe I can try using those when I'm going to source out my parts..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> It looks like it MIGHT be a Laing DC12-400. Possibly. I don't really know \much about that particular pump. And if I recall correctly head pressure is better than Gph. The pump with that XSPC kit is 1.8m, a DDC will be around 3.5. @12V. They can be reasonably quiet too. OH YEAH, that is my I don't have a D5 anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Loud little bastard.


meh both have their place. but no head pressure and gpm also matter, usually either will be fine, however as most loops dont really touch either pumps potential.

but there are ways to route your loop to make either pump work as well mixing serial and parallel. i have all 4 gpus in parallel ( as does red ) and it takes alot of pressure to do that. red1776 uses 4xd5s
i use 3xddc my temps are not as good as i tried a new loop layout at the same time. i used to run a rad between the cpu/gpus but i also went 2xgpu parallel>serial > 2xgpu parallel but now my cpu is cooler..... i will put a rad in between my cpu/gpu next teardown. also i dont like the thermal pads i bought to replace 1 block .... may buy new ones as well....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I am keeping the block pump and everything else. It was my first wc kit. I bought the 80mm monsta rad to use in place of the ex240 and corsair sp120 performance fans in place of the XSPC Fans. I'm leaning and it's fun. A small lose isn't bad and I buy everything on sale or with rebates.


you might think about putting both rads in if you have room for 2 instead of just selling them

if you want to learn watercooling here is the place to go http://martinsliquidlab.org/ only person i trust when it comes to reviews about watercooling. period, very very scientific unlike 99% of the reviews.

and he is on OCN !~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I actually was buying the the gentle typhoon ap15 120mm for the rad since they have very high recommendations but they were were on back order. I went with the corsair sp120 performance with static pressure over 3 even though not not as silent. I keep my computer behind my tv wall in a laundry room under an air vent so so I don't hear it anyway.
> 
> Plus I am going for all red and black theme.


so wait. you hide your pc from view... but care how it looks..... hmmm


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> meh both have their place. but no head pressure and gpm also matter, usually either will be fine, however as most loops dont really touch either pumps potential.
> 
> but there are ways to route your loop to make either pump work as well mixing serial and parallel. i have all 4 gpus in parallel ( as does red ) and it takes alot of pressure to do that. red1776 uses 4xd5s
> i use 3xddc my temps are not as good as i tried a new loop layout at the same time. i used to run a rad between the cpu/gpus but i also went 2xgpu parallel>serial > 2xgpu parallel but now my cpu is cooler..... i will put a rad in between my cpu/gpu next teardown. also i dont like the thermal pads i bought to replace 1 block .... may buy new ones as well....
> you might think about putting both rads in if you have room for 2 instead of just selling them
> 
> if you want to learn watercooling here is the place to go http://martinsliquidlab.org/ only person i trust when it comes to reviews about watercooling. period, very very scientific unlike 99% of the reviews.
> 
> and he is on OCN !~
> so wait. you hide your pc from view... but care how it looks..... hmmm


So any suggestions on my planned set-up??

Do you reckon a single RS360 rad can be better than the RX240?? From where I am, even the RX240 is more expensive than the RS360. That I'd rather care purchasing another RS240 when I go for a liquid cooled GPU. If that can be more convenient. Case will just follow on later so no need to think about anything.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So any suggestions on my planned set-up??
> 
> Do you reckon a single RS360 rad can be better than the RX240?? From where I am, even the RX240 is more expensive than the RS360. That I'd rather care purchasing another RS240 when I go for a liquid cooled GPU. If that can be more convenient. Case will just follow on later so no need to think about anything.


I am fairly confident that the 360 will be better tban the 240,even if the 240 is a little thicker. Martinsquidlabs had benches if you feel like seeing data


----------



## mus1mus

I've seen the review. I wanna know how the reviews relate to Real Life. But anyway, it seems like the review says it.

Thanks mate.

Seems pointless spending higher on the RX240. Unless the space requirement dictates it.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> are you still running it on 2400 11-11-11-33 CR2??
> 
> It's a bit strange that you can't run it at CR1 mate.
> 
> Experiment on it a bit and I can say you'll still get better number off yours on CR1.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> though it's a bit of a PITA if your system is already running nicely really. But who wouldn't want to have it better right?
> 
> But seriously mate, I have tried running mine at 2133 without altering my standard XMP profile. even tightening my secondary timings and that made everything snappier, better, faster than the stock of 1866.
> But that meant trouble for me since the CPU-NB is already at a high value of 267. I can only run it at 4.667Ghz. At 4.8, I need to drop down my timings to 10-12-10-30 CR1 to be stable. Maybe more voltage on the RAMS and I can stabilize it but, at a base of 1.65, I don't have enough headroom to do it.
> 
> Maybe at 2133, you can do it without leaving your CL at 8. Maybe 8-10-9-27 will even work for you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I envy that RAM.


Yes still running CR2 but now i am running it at 28 instead of 33.

i tried 110NS as well and i could boot but it does not feel smooth and after a while i get BSOD so maybe i need some more voltage to stabilize.

i can run 2000mhz at stock timings only a little voltage bump to 1.65 but still this setup i have now feels the fastest in everything i do.

Going to tweak it some more if i have time and post some benchmarks


----------



## mus1mus

I'm running mine daily at 2000 slightly modified from the stock timing of 9-11-9-27-42-CR1, I currently set it at 2000 9-11-9-27-36-1 without even adding some voltage. at 110ns. It's really snappier than 1866.

You really have to play around the settings when it comes to RAM. And record your results while getting the feel of how things work. And how Windows react to it. I really feel you can still lower the timings on your set-up. However I did experience that jumping from say, 4.66 to 4.8 on the CPU, I have to loosen my timings on 2133 from 9-11-9-27 CR1 to 10-12-10-30-CR1 to compensate on how fast the CACHES work. That may be the reason why you can't get it at CR2. Maybe.

I said maybe as yours on stock is a native 1600 MHz stick. While mine is a 1333 native. Meant mine is already overclocked from Kingston. That left me a little space to OC further. As even XMP Profile 2: 1600MHz already needs 1.65 to work.

Also noticed that, I cannot get mine fully stable even with adding some RAM Voltage at 2400. But given some bump on the CPU-NB Voltage, and I can run it longer without adding RAM voltages. Strange isn't it? When I never touched a thing on the CPU-NB. I only changed the RAM Multiplier to get it to 2400.









Anyway mate, everything's different. Tweaking your system will yield you results for that certain set-up only.

You may not able to run yours at CR1 but those figures you got are really impressive.

It's good to know what's under the skin of your RAM though. To know which settings will be optimal for them. The chip under them are the ones dictating their performance. Ocaholic did their tests according to what they know the optimum settings for every chip they tested. And most of the times, the results tell it.

Mine is an example: My main timings should follow this certain sequence: 9-11-9 , 10-12-10 , 11-13-11 and so on.

Some has 8-8-8 , 9-9-9 , 10-10-10 , and so on.

It's a RAM thing. Always Random. LoL


----------



## Loosenut

hey guys, in case someone hasn't already posted it, the ud5 rev 1.x has an official f12 bios. it is no longer a beta bios

has a date of 10-7-2013 on it


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> hey guys, in case someone hasn't already posted it, the ud5 rev 1.x has an official f12 bios. it is no longer a beta bios
> 
> has a date of 10-7-2013 on it


Thnx man









Is there an difference too?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm running mine daily at 2000 slightly modified from the stock timing of 9-11-9-27-42-CR1, I currently set it at 2000 9-11-9-27-36-1 without even adding some voltage. at 110ns. It's really snappier than 1866.
> 
> You really have to play around the settings when it comes to RAM. And record your results while getting the feel of how things work. And how Windows react to it. I really feel you can still lower the timings on your set-up. However I did experience that jumping from say, 4.66 to 4.8 on the CPU, I have to loosen my timings on 2133 from 9-11-9-27 CR1 to 10-12-10-30-CR1 to compensate on how fast the CACHES work. That may be the reason why you can't get it at CR2. Maybe.
> 
> I said maybe as yours on stock is a native 1600 MHz stick. While mine is a 1333 native. Meant mine is already overclocked from Kingston. That left me a little space to OC further. As even XMP Profile 2: 1600MHz already needs 1.65 to work.
> 
> Also noticed that, I cannot get mine fully stable even with adding some RAM Voltage at 2400. But given some bump on the CPU-NB Voltage, and I can run it longer without adding RAM voltages. Strange isn't it? When I never touched a thing on the CPU-NB. I only changed the RAM Multiplier to get it to 2400.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway mate, everything's different. Tweaking your system will yield you results for that certain set-up only.
> 
> You may not able to run yours at CR1 but those figures you got are really impressive.
> 
> It's good to know what's under the skin of your RAM though. To know which settings will be optimal for them. The chip under them are the ones dictating their performance. Ocaholic did their tests according to what they know the optimum settings for every chip they tested. And most of the times, the results tell it.
> 
> Mine is an example: My main timings should follow this certain sequence: 9-11-9 , 10-12-10 , 11-13-11 and so on.
> 
> Some has 8-8-8 , 9-9-9 , 10-10-10 , and so on.
> 
> It's a RAM thing. Always Random. LoL


Ye well most RAM is native 1333 only the best sticks get 1866 or even 2400 so if you are lucky you get the same but that depends on the silicon lottery.

I guess i am lucky with my RAM but honestly G.Skill is known about their outstanding RAM quality and mostly clocks well if not return it and get another set and i am sure it will clock amazingly









I had corsair vengeance RAM too before this but it did not clock that well and was not even near as fast as my G.Skill i have now.

Its the same with CPU's you are lucky or not and that is basically it









I am happy with my setup for now and if i feel like tweaking it again i certainly do because it has more potential in it, i can feel it









But the thing is is that these FX chips don't like much faster RAM than 2400 because of the IMC and CPU/NB can simply not keep up.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ye well most RAM is native 1333 only the best sticks get 1866 or even 2400 so if you are lucky you get the same but that depends on the silicon lottery.
> 
> I guess i am lucky with my RAM but honestly G.Skill is known about their outstanding RAM quality and mostly clocks well if not return it and get another set and i am sure it will clock amazingly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had corsair vengeance RAM too before this but it did not clock that well and was not even near as fast as my G.Skill i have now.
> 
> Its the same with CPU's you are lucky or not and that is basically it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am happy with my setup for now and if i feel like tweaking it again i certainly do because it has more potential in it, i can feel it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the thing is is that these FX chips don't like much faster RAM than 2400 because of the IMC and CPU/NB can simply not keep up.


That's the limitation IMO.

If you can't make it run at 2400 CR1, try running it with lower timings. Some 10-11-11-30 will still yield you better score IMO.

Anyway, AMD doesn't scale well with higher clocked RAM's. They aren't like Intel's when a bump of 266Mhz on the RAMs would also give the CPU some Performance gains. But then again, Intel's, take a hard toll on the RAM's. Got rapid RAM failures or maybe CRASHES on our office's Workstations when I force the MOBO to RUN our 1866s on XMP timings. The MOBO isn't bad either. Some ASUS P8Z77-V's. The sticks are running hot. While on mine, 2133 at 1.75 volts, still running on ambient Temps the way I can feel them.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That's the limitation IMO.
> 
> If you can't make it run at 2400 CR1, try running it with lower timings. Some 10-11-11-30 will still yield you better score IMO.
> 
> Anyway, AMD doesn't scale well with higher clocked RAM's. They aren't like Intel's when a bump of 266Mhz on the RAMs would also give the CPU some Performance gains. But then again, Intel's, take a hard toll on the RAM's. Got rapid RAM failures or maybe CRASHES on our office's Workstations when I force the MOBO to RUN our 1866s on XMP timings. The MOBO isn't bad either. Some ASUS P8Z77-V's. The sticks are running hot. While on mine, 2133 at 1.75 volts, still running on ambient Temps the way I can feel them.


Nah i can't i tried it before and it was a no go, and even than is it that much of an difference running it CR1 or 2? does that give so much more?

Indeed AMD does not scale that well with higher speed RAM so i am at the limit of what the chip can handle.

I can get more RAM speed and maybe to CR1 but i have to lower everything to become stable at that speed, so maybe i am going to try that.

i am on 5ghz now with 2570 CPU/NB at 1.3 volts and HT at 2827, higher HT gives me instability and is not necessary for my setup so i leave it there.

CPU is at 1.536 and under load its 1.586 i set the LLC to extreme because that gives me more stability but i am at the limit of what my chip can handle so if i want to run better timings and CR1 i need to lower my CPU speed a bump because i do not want to put any more volts to it than it already has.

And what does that IMO means? lol


----------



## glenquagmire

IMO

Intergalactic Mission Operative

or Insane Monkey Orgy

or In My Opinion . Depending on its context. Lol


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> IMO
> 
> Intergalactic Mission Operative
> 
> or Insane Monkey Orgy
> 
> or In My Opinion . Depending on its context. Lol


LOL understood


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Loosenut*
> 
> hey guys, in case someone hasn't already posted it, the ud5 rev 1.x has an official f12 bios. it is no longer a beta bios
> 
> has a date of 10-7-2013 on it


nice i might have to give it a shot see what happens. Seems the description only mentions an update of the ahci rom. Probably just a compatibility update to work with newer peripherals (fan controllers, bd-roms, SSD etc)


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Nah i can't i tried it before and it was a no go, and even than is it that much of an difference running it CR1 or 2? does that give so much more?
> 
> Indeed AMD does not scale that well with higher speed RAM so i am at the limit of what the chip can handle.
> 
> I can get more RAM speed and maybe to CR1 but i have to lower everything to become stable at that speed, so maybe i am going to try that.
> 
> i am on 5ghz now with 2570 CPU/NB at 1.3 volts and HT at 2827, higher HT gives me instability and is not necessary for my setup so i leave it there.
> 
> CPU is at 1.536 and under load its 1.586 i set the LLC to extreme because that gives me more stability but i am at the limit of what my chip can handle so if i want to run better timings and CR1 i need to lower my CPU speed a bump because i do not want to put any more volts to it than it already has.
> 
> And what does that IMO means? lol


LOL

CR1 means better, faster, more bandwidth than CR2
CR2 means more stable than CR1

Off the primary RAM Timings, http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Understanding-RAM-Timings/26/2

CL-TRCD-TRP-TRAS-CR or as labeled i.e., 8-9-9-27-1 are as follows:
CL=8
TRCD=9
TRP=9
TRAS=27
CR-1

1. In my experience spending sleepless nights tweaking with RAM timings, *CL or CAS Latency* can shave you somewhere ~3ns off you latency performance by going 1 step down with everything kept constant. This value has the greatest impact on RAM performance aside of course from RAM MHz count.

2.*TRCD* on mine, meant the frequency range I can run my RAMS, 8-9 is for 1600, 10-11 for 1866-2133**( **with some voltage bump), 12-13 for 2133-2400;
TRCD of 9 prevented me from booting or entering BIOS POST at 1866. But 13, enabled me to run 2400.

3. *TRP*- must not be lower than CL, depending on your RAM, while keeping your CL and TRCD timings constant, adding 1 or 2 increments to the TRP, can enable you to run up to 266 MHz more from your RAM.
i.e.,
At stock of 1866 9-11-9-27-1, I can run 2133 9-11-11-30-1 with lesser voltage to add from stock than running it at 2133 9-11-9-27-1.

4. When messing with the timings, it's nice to know the basic calculation on how to get *TRAS* values. However, This has very little effect as incorrect or less than required, you'll just encounter some errors on some apps but won't prevent you from booting.

5. Most testers or RAM OC'rs start off with *CR2* when trying out high clocks as that can ensure better stability. Then try out *CR1* for better performance.

Doing my RAM tweaking, after a lot of sleepless night just trying to get a hold on understanding how RAM Timings work, I found out that my specific Chip loves to run at this sequence,

*CL + 2 = TRAS* or i.e. 9-11-9 ; 10-12-10; 11-13-11. That way a little voltage or even nothing at all should be added to stabilize. And I can't run 1866 at TRAS of 9, 2133 at TRAS of 10.
But satisfying their minimum *TRAS requirement*, I am able to RUN 1866 at 8-10-8-24







2133 at 9-11-9







and 2400 at 10-12-10







!!! (Of course with some bump on the voltage)








Quite mysterious isn't it?

Take note on yours mate. As I have experienced what you are saying too. I can run 2133 at 9-11-9-27 with a CPU speed of 4.667Ghz NO PROBLEMS. But jumping to 4.8, I have to loosen down 2133 to 10-12-10-30 to keep it from not CRASHING. That's one timing on everything down. But Bandwidth almost stay the same. I guess I overly saturated my RAM at that timing and that speed. That bandwidth no longer scaled.

So maybe you can loosen your timings since you are running 2400 MHz using FSB OC. And at 5GHz, maybe you just need to loosen some timings. Maybe 2400 11-12-12-36-1 will do you good on stability and lesser Voltage bump.

Again, These are just my experiences. Maybe yours would be different. But who knows? Or how would you know if you won't try? LOL









Anyway, *CPU-NB and FSB* dictates alot on RAM performance.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> LOL
> 
> CR1 means better, faster, more bandwidth than CR2
> CR2 means more stable than CR1
> 
> Off the primary RAM Timings, http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Understanding-RAM-Timings/26/2
> 
> CL-TRCD-TRP-TRAS-CR or as labeled i.e., 8-9-9-27-1 are as follows:
> CL=8
> TRCD=9
> TRP=9
> TRAS=27
> CR-1
> 
> 1. In my experience spending sleepless nights tweaking with RAM timings, *CL or CAS Latency* can shave you somewhere ~3ns off you latency performance by going 1 step down with everything kept constant. This value has the greatest impact on RAM performance aside of course from RAM MHz count.
> 
> 2.*TRCD* on mine, meant the frequency range I can run my RAMS, 8-9 is for 1600, 10-11 for 1866-2133**( **with some voltage bump), 12-13 for 2133-2400;
> TRCD of 9 prevented me from booting or entering BIOS POST at 1866. But 13, enabled me to run 2400.
> 
> 3. *TRP*- must not be lower than CL, depending on your RAM, while keeping your CL and TRCD timings constant, adding 1 or 2 increments to the TRP, can enable you to run up to 266 MHz more from your RAM.
> i.e.,
> At stock of 1866 9-11-9-27-1, I can run 2133 9-11-11-30-1 with lesser voltage to add from stock than running it at 2133 9-11-9-27-1.
> 
> 4. When messing with the timings, it's nice to know the basic calculation on how to get *TRAS* values. However, This has very little effect as incorrect or less than required, you'll just encounter some errors on some apps but won't prevent you from booting.
> 
> 5. Most testers or RAM OC'rs start off with *CR2* when trying out high clocks as that can ensure better stability. Then try out *CR1* for better performance.
> 
> Doing my RAM tweaking, after a lot of sleepless night just trying to get a hold on understanding how RAM Timings work, I found out that my specific Chip loves to run at this sequence,
> 
> *CL + 2 = TRAS* or i.e. 9-11-9 ; 10-12-10; 11-13-11. That way a little voltage or even nothing at all should be added to stabilize. And I can't run 1866 at TRAS of 9, 2133 at TRAS of 10.
> But satisfying their minimum *TRAS requirement*, I am able to RUN 1866 at 8-10-8-24
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2133 at 9-11-9
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and 2400 at 10-12-10
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !!! (Of course with some bump on the voltage)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite mysterious isn't it?
> 
> Take note on yours mate. As I have experienced what you are saying too. I can run 2133 at 9-11-9-27 with a CPU speed of 4.667Ghz NO PROBLEMS. But jumping to 4.8, I have to loosen down 2133 to 10-12-10-30 to keep it from not CRASHING. That's one timing on everything down.
> 
> So maybe you can loosen your timings since you are running 2400 MHz using FSB OC. And at 5GHz, maybe you just need to loosen some timings. Maybe 2400 11-12-12-36-1 will do you good on stability and lesser Voltage bump.
> 
> Again, These are just my experiences. Maybe yours would be different. But who knows? Or how would you know if you won't try? LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, *CPU-NB and FSB* dictates alot on RAM performance.


Ye well honestly i am new at RAM overclocking and the first thing i did was go look for faster RAM on the G.Skill site but than again i saw that most RAM are 1333 native and they clocked higher using the loosened timings and higher voltages so that is what i did just to try if it would do the same.

And later i go what the heck? it worked lol that is what basically happened and than i was reading a lot about it on the internet and i saw more people claim the same thing and not only with G.Skill but with Kingston and some Corsair RAM too so that is when i realized that buying faster RAM is useless because when you are lucky you get the same exact timings at the right voltage, well sometimes it needs a tad more but that's okay i read somewhere that RAM modules can handle more than 1.7V so that's fine.

And most of the time i just DO stuff and later i go like HUH? it worked lol than i am reading about it some more and maybe tweak even more. Its the same with PLL voltage, i never read about it so i decided to add some more volts and presto i was more stable and the CPU runs a lot cooler at lower voltage.

I like to discover things and later on read about it what i actually did LOL

But i would try to run the RAM to CR1 buddy but i tried it yesterday and it was not stable and it gives me a BSOD after few hours so maybe a tad more volts or i have to loosen the timings a bit more.

BTW: http://valid.canardpc.com/2x94up


----------



## hurricane28

I tried man but i did not get ANY performance more, as a matter a fact i get less in AIDA64 benchmark lol so i went back to 11-11-11-28 CR2


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ye well honestly i am new at RAM overclocking and the first thing i did was go look for faster RAM on the G.Skill site but than again i saw that most RAM are 1333 native and they clocked higher using the loosened timings and higher voltages so that is what i did just to try if it would do the same.
> 
> And later i go what the heck? it worked lol that is what basically happened and than i was reading a lot about it on the internet and i saw more people claim the same thing and not only with G.Skill but with Kingston and some Corsair RAM too so that is when i realized that buying faster RAM is useless because when you are lucky you get the same exact timings at the right voltage, well sometimes it needs a tad more but that's okay i read somewhere that RAM modules can handle more than 1.7V so that's fine.
> 
> And most of the time i just DO stuff and later i go like HUH? it worked lol than i am reading about it some more and maybe tweak even more. Its the same with PLL voltage, i never read about it so i decided to add some more volts and presto i was more stable and the CPU runs a lot cooler at lower voltage.
> 
> I like to discover things and later on read about it what i actually did LOL
> 
> But i would try to run the RAM to CR1 buddy but i tried it yesterday and it was not stable and it gives me a BSOD after few hours so maybe a tad more volts or i have to loosen the timings a bit more.
> 
> BTW: http://valid.canardpc.com/2x94up


Very Nice Mate!!! Is that using your H100i? Makes me really dig into Custom Water!

I was able to run my RAMs at 1.8V mate. Believe it or not. It's just later that I read somewhere that even RAM voltage add to CPU heat that I backed down on it over the fear of damaging the CPU itself.







But for my RAMs at 1.8V, NOWHERE as HOT as the RAMs on Intels.

Try 2400 at 11-12-12 and try CR1. Maybe that will work for you. 11-12-12-36 won't give you any ERRORS at all. As it relaxes your timing. And won't hurt your latency that much as well. Aside from CL, other timings can only give you or change the Latency and Bandwidth by a very little degree. i.e. 11-12-12-36 would shave you some 20 MB on bandwidth and 0.something nanoseconds an the Latency.

PLL voltage, since, unlike your UD5s and UD7s that 2,695 is the last setting before it goes RED, UD3s don't have that. But I am currently running mine at 2.795. PCIe/NB/ PLL at 1.995! So far no problems. LOL I'll back them down anyway.


----------



## mus1mus

LOL. That's usually the case with loose timings. anyway other things can benefit from loose timings. RAM voltage for one. As well as CPU heat.


----------



## mus1mus

But seriously, I still believe you can get away with 2400 10-11-11 on your RAM at 1.65-1.7 volts. Since RAM timings usually go up one set every 267 MHz.
So that's
1866 8-9-9-24,
2133 9-10-10-28,
2400 10-11-11-30.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Very Nice Mate!!! Is that using your H100i? Makes me really dig into Custom Water!
> 
> I was able to run my RAMs at 1.8V mate. Believe it or not. It's just later that I read somewhere that even RAM voltage add to CPU heat that I backed down on it over the fear of damaging the CPU itself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But for my RAMs at 1.8V, NOWHERE as HOT as the RAMs on Intels.
> 
> Try 2400 at 11-12-12 and try CR1. Maybe that will work for you. 11-12-12-36 won't give you any ERRORS at all. As it relaxes your timing. And won't hurt your latency that much as well. Aside from CL, other timings can only give you or change the Latency and Bandwidth by a very little degree. i.e. 11-12-12-36 would shave you some 20 MB on bandwidth and 0.something nanoseconds an the Latency.
> 
> PLL voltage, since, unlike your UD5s and UD7s that 2,695 is the last setting before it goes RED, UD3s don't have that. But I am currently running mine at 2.795. PCIe/NB/ PLL at 1.995! So far no problems. LOL I'll back them down anyway.


Ye that is with my H100i in push/pull with the standard turbine 2700RPM fans, yes its utterly loud at full blast but i only use that when i am running benchmarks so i don't mind than.

At 24/7 i use balanced mode so if needed the fans ramp up automatically and in idle its not that loud.

Well i was reading a lot about fans and whether i use push or pull or push/pull, its not that simple to answer to be honest because it all depends on your budget and your needs and what you want basically.

but if i go for custom water loop i would definitely go for low density radiator's because you don't need that much of high static pressure fans like i am running now because the h100i rad is very dense so it only performs very well if you have very low ambient temps or run utterly loud and high static pressure fans in push/pull.

the second thing is is that when you run that high static pressure fans it sucks out all of the air inside my case so i have mounted an 200mm bitfenics specter pro blue LED in the front to keep up with the demand of air but even that fan is no match for those fans, so when i really need some good cooling i need to open my case so they can suck all the air they need.

I also have plans for an different case because i am not happy at all with the Corsair obsidian 650D because of its poor airflow and fan mount options. For example i can only mount 1 200mm fan in the front and that is definitely not enough for an cool case, so i was looking at the Corsair obsidian 750D that has way more options and looks way better plus little bit bigger so if i want to go with custom water loop i still have some head room to spare.

As for water loops, i like this one much: http://highflow.nl/radiatoren/2-x-120mm-240/coolgate-240-radiator-dual-120mm-copper-plating-cg240cup.html

You don't need that high static pressure fans to keep it nice and cool.

Also the http://highflow.nl/radiatoren/2-x-120mm-240/ek-coolstream-rad-xt-240.html is an very good radiator.

This is pretty much the best you can get if you want to go with 240mm rad EK is well known about their quality products and so is black ice GT series.

As for the pumps i would go with these: http://highflow.nl/pompen/laing-swiftech/tops/d5-tops/alphacool-repack-dual-laing-d5-dual-5-25-bay-station-15167.html

Its a pump and reservoir all in one and the pump is one of the best you can buy now these days









If you want to know some more about water cooling, here is a guy that knows more than a lot which i follow every build log and i learned a lot from this guy on how to choose components and how to set it up: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA

Its for getting ideas of components and how he does it, its fascinating how he can talk and talk about his builds and water loops, i think he is amazing he really is.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ye that is with my H100i in push/pull with the standard turbine 2700RPM fans, yes its utterly loud at full blast but i only use that when i am running benchmarks so i don't mind than.
> 
> At 24/7 i use balanced mode so if needed the fans ramp up automatically and in idle its not that loud.
> 
> Well i was reading a lot about fans and whether i use push or pull or push/pull, its not that simple to answer to be honest because it all depends on your budget and your needs and what you want basically.
> 
> but if i go for custom water loop i would definitely go for low density radiator's because you don't need that much of high static pressure fans like i am running now because the h100i rad is very dense so it only performs very well if you have very low ambient temps or run utterly loud and high static pressure fans in push/pull.
> 
> the second thing is is that when you run that high static pressure fans it sucks out all of the air inside my case so i have mounted an 200mm bitfenics specter pro blue LED in the front to keep up with the demand of air but even that fan is no match for those fans, so when i really need some good cooling i need to open my case so they can suck all the air they need.
> 
> I also have plans for an different case because i am not happy at all with the Corsair obsidian 650D because of its poor airflow and fan mount options. For example i can only mount 1 200mm fan in the front and that is definitely not enough for an cool case, so i was looking at the Corsair obsidian 750D that has way more options and looks way better plus little bit bigger so if i want to go with custom water loop i still have some head room to spare.
> 
> As for water loops, i like this one much: http://highflow.nl/radiatoren/2-x-120mm-240/coolgate-240-radiator-dual-120mm-copper-plating-cg240cup.html
> 
> You don't need that high static pressure fans to keep it nice and cool.
> 
> Also the http://highflow.nl/radiatoren/2-x-120mm-240/ek-coolstream-rad-xt-240.html is an very good radiator.
> 
> This is pretty much the best you can get if you want to go with 240mm rad EK is well known about their quality products and so is black ice GT series.
> 
> As for the pumps i would go with these: http://highflow.nl/pompen/laing-swiftech/tops/d5-tops/alphacool-repack-dual-laing-d5-dual-5-25-bay-station-15167.html
> 
> Its a pump and reservoir all in one and the pump is one of the best you can buy now these days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to know some more about water cooling, here is a guy that knows more than a lot which i follow every build log and i learned a lot from this guy on how to choose components and how to set it up: http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCqChlb8y4cQ0jAFaNFPQLqA
> 
> Its for getting ideas of components and how he does it, its fascinating how he can talk and talk about his builds and water loops, i think he is amazing he really is.


That's one of the things I am reading about right now TBH.

I am eyeing this 360mm RAD http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-rs-series/rs360-triple-fan-radiator as this is still cheaper than this http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-rx-series/rx240-dual-fan-radiator-v2 in my country.

And still available.

Raystorm for the Block. I like their visual on Intel. On AMD, it's still fine.

Looking at the D5 pump http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-dual-bay-reservoirpump-combo as well. OR this http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4
But i reckon I'm better off with a D5 since it will open some options for me to run GPUs on the loop as well. I'd add another 240mm RS if in I do so. And still come out spending less than a single RX360









I can actually get this in kit form and cost me less. But one thing that I wanna do is piece things out as I am on a tight budget. I can just shell out cash on an item at a time.

Been checking about http://martinsliquidlab.org/ for every info I can get.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That's one of the things I am reading about right now TBH.
> 
> I am eyeing this 360mm RAD http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-rs-series/rs360-triple-fan-radiator as this is still cheaper than this http://www.xs-pc.com/radiators-rx-series/rx240-dual-fan-radiator-v2 in my country.
> 
> And still available.
> 
> Raystorm for the Block. I like their visual on Intel. On AMD, it's still fine.
> 
> Looking at the D5 pump http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-dual-bay-reservoirpump-combo as well. OR this http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/x2o-750-dual-bayrespump-black-v4
> But i reckon I'm better off with a D5 since it will open some options for me to run GPUs on the loop as well. I'd add another 240mm RS if in I do so. And still come out spending less than a single RX360
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can actually get this in kit form and cost me less. But one thing that I wanna do is piece things out as I am on a tight budget. I can just shell out cash on an item at a time.
> 
> Been checking about http://martinsliquidlab.org/ for every info I can get.


Why you go with XSPC? nothing bad to say about it and its one of the best but just curious









I like EK and Black ice GT.

i would definitely go with D5 pump indeed because if you have plans for water cool your GPU as well you are not running out of pump power









I already have made my decision on what components i would like to use but that costs me more than 400 euro's so i need to save some moneys to get it LOL

But first i need the Corsair obsidian 750D i really like that case


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Why you go with XSPC? nothing bad to say about it and its one of the best but just curious
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like EK and Black ice GT.
> 
> i would definitely go with D5 pump indeed because if you have plans for water cool your GPU as well you are not running out of pump power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I already have made my decision on what components i would like to use but that costs me more than 400 euro's so i need to save some moneys to get it LOL
> 
> But first i need the Corsair obsidian 750D i really like that case


That's the thing about water cooling that caused me to stay away from them the first time. TOO EXPENSIVE if you take a look at them on a price standpoint.

Why XSPC, of course, I really consider the cost and availability. EKs are PREMIUM over here. Black Ice, CAN'T GET ONE.

Between XSPC and EK is a price difference big enough to really stick with the XSPC. Since I'm just going to start with WC, I can't really plunge myself into that EK performance if they are REALLY better. XSPC has got some good things going for them too aside from the price.

That RAYSTORM I believe is a good Block. One of the best for some.

That RS360 rad, if I can get one, lacks of course the performance of the thicker RX360 also from XSPC and some of the best Rads out there. But the RX costs way more than a couple of RS's. And talking about performance for the RADS, the good ones can only be separated by a small margin if you test each one of them in a simulated environment. Not that I really believe simulated environment would reflect the results on a real life scenario. But it will be close IMO. http://martinsliquidlab.org/ even reported an 8% performance difference between the RX and the RS rad. Which nullifies the price difference. At the RX price, I can get the RS and 3 very good fans like these http://dvtests.com/?p=10557 and still come out spending less than that RX Rad.







Which will of course improve things by a wide margin.









The Pump would be an integrated Pump/Reservoir http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-dual-bay-reservoirpump-combo set-up to eliminate further installation issue. That will also add or maybe lessen the visual appeal of the cooler. Depending on how you look at it. But I'd prefer having the reservoir in the bay area.









I will piece these things out in the coming months so it won't be a shocker compared to buying them at once.









I would love to learn on this as I move on.

400 Euros would equate to Crosshair V + 8350 + Gskill 8GB RAM if my math is right and exchange rate not changing on my country. JAW DROPPING!!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That's the thing about water cooling that caused me to stay away from them the first time. TOO EXPENSIVE if you take a look at them on a price standpoint.
> 
> Why XSPC, of course, I really consider the cost and availability. EKs are PREMIUM over here. Black Ice, CAN'T GET ONE.
> 
> Between XSPC and EK is a price difference big enough to really stick with the XSPC. Since I'm just going to start with WC, I can't really plunge myself into that EK performance if they are REALLY better. XSPC has got some good things going for them too aside from the price.
> 
> That RAYSTORM I believe is a good Block. One of the best for some.
> 
> That RS360 rad, if I can get one, lacks of course the performance of the thicker RX360 also from XSPC and some of the best Rads out there. But the RX costs way more than a couple of RS's. And talking about performance for the RADS, the good ones can only be separated by a small margin if you test each one of them in a simulated environment. Not that I really believe simulated environment would reflect the results on a real life scenario. But it will be close IMO. http://martinsliquidlab.org/ even reported an 8% performance difference between the RX and the RS rad. Which nullifies the price difference. At the RX price, I can get the RS and 3 very good fans like these http://dvtests.com/?p=10557 and still come out spending less than that RX Rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which will of course improve things by a wide margin.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Pump would be an integrated Pump/Reservoir http://www.xs-pc.com/water-pumps/d5-dual-bay-reservoirpump-combo set-up to eliminate further installation issue. That will also add or maybe lessen the visual appeal of the cooler. Depending on how you look at it. But I'd prefer having the reservoir in the bay area.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will piece these things out in the coming months so it won't be a shocker compared to buying them at once.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would love to learn on this as I move on.
> 
> 400 Euros would equate to Crosshair V + 8350 + Gskill 8GB RAM if my math is right and exchange rate not changing on my country. JAW DROPPING!!


Yeah it can be pretty expensive but it all depends on what you need and want.

I mean if your CPU for example can't run 5ghz or more it would be useless to me unless you have very warm climate and high ambient temps.

Where are you from than? because you can't get get Black ice GT's.

I also looking to get an kit like this: AlphaCool NexXxoS Cool Answer 240 DDC/XT

Its an very good kit and compare to the other components i choose from very cheap because i can get it for 200 euro's.

As for fans i would like to use the
SilverStone AP121 because they are specially for radiators and have the air channeling so that you can focus the air directly where you want it to go instead of most fans that spits air all over the place.

here is an example of how it works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m8fC809TK0

As for rads i would go with the thickest rad i can fit and find in my case but thicker rads means high performance fans as well but as for now i can fit an 45mm radiator in the top of my case only in push and that is for only cooling the CPU more than enough to keep it very cool.

360 rads are overkill if you only want to cool the CPU but if you want more components its very good. but the most important thing is the fin array and the thickness of the radiator because the thicker the radiator is the more serves aria you have to dissipates the heat from the CPU.

Also the fin array is important for cooling because the less dense the radiator is the more air can flow through it so you don't need high static pressure fans because the radiator is not that much restrictive.

BTW did you watched the link i send you? and what you think of that guy huh? pretty amazing what he can isn't it?


----------



## taeness666

i need help in overclocking my fx 8320.. i have a gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 4 mobo, fsp raider 650w psu..

BCLK Clock Control 200 mhz
CPU NB Frequency 2200 mhz
HT Link Frequency 2600 mhz
CPU Clock Ratio 20
Extreme Memory Profile profile1
System Memory Multiplier 8.0
Memory Frequency 1600

CPU Vcore normal
Dynamic Vcore(dvid) normal
NB Core normal
Dynamic NB core(nb dvid) normal
Dram Voltage normal
Dram Termination normal
HT Link Voltage auto
NB/PCIe/Pll Voltage auto
CPU PLL Voltage auto
NB Voltage auto
Vcore Loadline Calibration auto


----------



## Tykjen

*** is up with the AMD site? Im trying to find new chipset drivers but I cant seem to get anything listed. All that shows is graphic drivers.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tykjen*
> 
> *** is up with the AMD site? Im trying to find new chipset drivers but I cant seem to get anything listed. All that shows is graphic drivers.


http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows%208%20-%2032


----------



## Tykjen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows%208%20-%2032


Thank you! The frustration was about to kill me.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows%208%20-%2032


That is one annoying website !
I even left a comment for the webmaster.
I can not tell if these drivers are for 32 or 64 bit systems or both.
The address on the web page when you open say Windows 8 - 32
so I don't know if they work on 64 bit systems or not and I don't see how to navigate to them.


----------



## kzone75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/chipset?os=Windows%208%20-%2032
> 
> 
> 
> That is one annoying website !
> I even left a comment for the webmaster.
> I can not tell if these drivers are for 32 or 64 bit systems or both.
> The address on the web page when you open say Windows 8 - 32
> so I don't know if they work on 64 bit systems or not and I don't see how to navigate to them.
Click to expand...

It's both 32 and 64 bit. Win 7 and 8 use the same driver. You could try the AMD Driver Autodetect.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kzone75*
> 
> It's both 32 and 64 bit. Win 7 and 8 use the same driver. You could try the AMD Driver Autodetect.


Thought I might give autodetect a try.
What a joke that is, result :
We were unable to find your product or OS
I guess it is just for video cards.
AMD should rework their website.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Thought I might give autodetect a try.
> What a joke that is, result :
> We were unable to find your product or OS
> I guess it is just for video cards.
> AMD should rework their website.


yeah i had the same issue. then when i installed the chipset drivers i wasn't even sure they were installed. Its very confusing and I still really have no idea if drivers installed properly.


----------



## bbond007

For anyone interested,

The secret of getting rid of the on then off and back on real quick behavior (on the rev4 anyway) in cold boot it to set the turbo frequency = normal core frequency and ENABLE core turbo support...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> For anyone interested,
> 
> The secret of getting rid of the on then off and back on real quick behavior (on the rev4 anyway) in cold boot it to set the turbo frequency = normal core frequency and ENABLE core turbo support...


hmm ill have to try it


----------



## dmfree88

http://www.overclock.net/t/1434322/amd-multiplier-overclocking-guide-vishera-bulldozer-phenom-more-ga-990fxa-ud5-rev1-1-non-uefi-bios-example

Figured I'd pass it along, in my sig aswell. Feel free to comment and suggestions. Still a work in progress plan to add photos n such soon.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1434322/amd-multiplier-overclocking-guide-vishera-bulldozer-phenom-more-ga-990fxa-ud5-rev1-1-non-uefi-bios-example
> 
> Figured I'd pass it along, in my sig aswell. Feel free to comment and suggestions. Still a work in progress plan to add photos n such soon.


Nice guide.









I wish my my FX-8350 wasn't so crappy. It's requiring way too high of a voltage to be stable over 4.6GHz and at that point my water cooler is having a hard time keeping the damn thing at a reasonable temp. For this reason I'm actually backing off getting a better board than my UD3, doubt a new board would help my chip. Maybe I'll wait until holiday sales and pick myself up another 7950 instead.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Nice guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish my my FX-8350 wasn't so crappy. It's requiring way too high of a voltage to be stable over 4.6GHz and at that point my water cooler is having a hard time keeping the damn thing at a reasonable temp. For this reason I'm actually backing off getting a better board than my UD3, doubt a new board would help my chip. Maybe I'll wait until holiday sales and pick myself up another 7950 instead.


What kinds of volts and temps are you seeing? what cooler?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Nice guide.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish my my FX-8350 wasn't so crappy. It's requiring way too high of a voltage to be stable over 4.6GHz and at that point my water cooler is having a hard time keeping the damn thing at a reasonable temp. For this reason I'm actually backing off getting a better board than my UD3, doubt a new board would help my chip. Maybe I'll wait until holiday sales and pick myself up another 7950 instead.


i dont know if you noticed in my guide but did you set core control or whatever to disabled and enable all cores? I did this and got a 10 degree spike in temps. When i left it set to auto all cores work fine and temps stay 10 degrees cooler.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> i dont know if you noticed in my guide but did you set core control or whatever to disabled and enable all cores? I did this and got a 10 degree spike in temps. When i left it set to auto all cores work fine and temps stay 10 degrees cooler.


great guide man









Yes its very logical that you get an temp spike because you enable all 8 cores so that is not so strange









To some it would be beneficial to disable all cores so that its basically an 4 core CPU and that will translate in less heat and save some power as well. But then again what are you doing with an 8 core when you simply do not use all 8 cores right?


----------



## dmfree88

but when its set to auto all 8 cores are enabled and work fine. when manually enabled i get a 10 degree C spike.. thats huge


----------



## hurricane28

So let me get this strait, when you set it to auto all 8 cores are enabled and gives you 10c difference in temps than set it to enable?

Are you sure its only thing that cause that high of an temp spike? because it seems unlikely to me, not saying that your wrong tho i am only saying









You also have the same revision UD5 like me?


----------



## dmfree88

it was awhile back while i was first tinkering with the hyper212. I will test it again to verify but i remember having a hell of a time trying to figure out what i had done wrong then instantly fixing it by switching that to auto. Will officially test it just to verify when i get a chance. Working right now but ill let you know.

Using rev 1.1 what rev you using?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> For anyone interested,
> 
> The secret of getting rid of the on then off and back on real quick behavior (on the rev4 anyway) in cold boot it to set the turbo frequency = normal core frequency and ENABLE core turbo support...


that sir would be awesome...

I however now get this every time I reboot... (only reboot... boot from a shutdown is fine... and super fast)



I then "Enter bios" ... save and exit... and system boots fine... Every time!

Its annoying as all get out. But otherwise the system is crazy dead stable.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> it was awhile back while i was first tinkering with the hyper212. I will test it again to verify but i remember having a hell of a time trying to figure out what i had done wrong then instantly fixing it by switching that to auto. Will officially test it just to verify when i get a chance. Working right now but ill let you know.
> 
> Using rev 1.1 what rev you using?


Great man! that would be so awesome if that does the trick









Yes i am on rev 1.1 as well so we should get the same settings and if it works for you it might work for me as well and maybe for other people too.

let us know how that works mate


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> that sir would be awesome...
> 
> I however now get this every time I reboot... (only reboot... boot from a shutdown is fine... and super fast)
> 
> 
> 
> I then "Enter bios" ... save and exit... and system boots fine... Every time!
> 
> Its annoying as all get out. But otherwise the system is crazy dead stable.


I have now adjusted my 3716mhz, 4000mhz and 4200mhz profiles and have not seen return of the bug.

I'm trying to decide if its better to refer to the bug as "on again, off again bug" or "false start bug"









The really only settings I have changed now are multipliers, APM & LLC

I've not had that issue in your screenshot either... thankfully... try just doing those settings leaving the rest stock. I only have 8320 so I'm not clocking to your speeds. Wonder if that makes a difference.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> What kinds of volts and temps are you seeing? what cooler?


My volts are 1.440 (or +.050) and with LLC on Normal it climbs to 1.488 when at 100% load, in a Prime95 test at around 10 mins the temp reached 64C and at that point I had a core fail. I'm using a XSPC Raystorm EX240 D5 variant for my CPU, I've got the stock fans on it and at max RPM.

As you can see I'm not even stable in Prime95, for gaming though it works and temps have yet to exceed 62C in any of my games.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> i dont know if you noticed in my guide but did you set core control or whatever to disabled and enable all cores? I did this and got a 10 degree spike in temps. When i left it set to auto all cores work fine and temps stay 10 degrees cooler.


It's set to auto for me.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> For anyone interested,
> 
> The secret of getting rid of the on then off and back on real quick behavior (on the rev4 anyway) in cold boot it to set the turbo frequency = normal core frequency and ENABLE core turbo support...


+Rep.

Works on the UD3 Rev 3 with FC BIOS as well. I am SOOOOOOO happy you posted this man. The 2-3 restarts every time i booted up or rebooted were pissing me off.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> My volts are 1.440 (or +.050) and with LLC on Normal it climbs to 1.488 when at 100% load, in a Prime95 test at around 10 mins the temp reached 64C and at that point I had a core fail. I'm using a XSPC Raystorm EX240 D5 variant for my CPU, I've got the stock fans on it and at max RPM.
> 
> As you can see I'm not even stable in Prime95, for gaming though it works and temps have yet to exceed 62C in any of my games.
> It's set to auto for me.


Normal LLC is so erratic (Too low Minimum and Very wide Voltage Delta min to max). Try it at Regular or Ultra. 1.488 Volts will be +0.100 on Regular(at max) and Ultra will give you a max of 1.520 something. That's for me on UD3 rev 3. I'm still doing some testing regarding LLC Settings that might help.

But the Basics:

+0.050 Ultra and High > +0.050 Medium and Regular.
But
0.075 Regular and Medium > 0.050 Ultra and High.

There is about 0.020 Volts difference between the maximum readings that you can get from Ultra to Regular at same offsets.

+0.050 Extreme > +0.100 Regular (I will have to check again on this one. As I don't really use Extreme)

But it must be the chip mate. Mine would require too much Vcore too. Only that it happens at 4.8 and UP. Up to 4.5 I don't even need to add any Offsets. But need to bump to +0.100 to stabilize a 4.75. Depending on which combination I work with.

That cooler is so good to give you those temps as well.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> that sir would be awesome...
> 
> I however now get this every time I reboot... (only reboot... boot from a shutdown is fine... and super fast)
> 
> 
> 
> I then "Enter bios" ... save and exit... and system boots fine... Every time!
> 
> Its annoying as all get out. But otherwise the system is crazy dead stable.


maybe try enabling and disabling again? does the newer uefi have APM? May need enabled aswell


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> +Rep.
> 
> Works on the UD3 Rev 3 with FC BIOS as well. I am SOOOOOOO happy you posted this man. The 2-3 restarts every time i booted up or rebooted were pissing me off.


The funny thing is I never noticed it did that until I came in here and people were talking about it.

I'm glad it works on the rev3 as well


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> maybe try enabling and disabling again? does the newer uefi have APM? May need enabled aswell


I have rev4 and APM disabled







that can't be it.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Normal LLC is so erratic (Too low Minimum and Very wide Voltage Delta min to max). Try it at Regular or Ultra. 1.488 Volts will be +0.100 on Regular(at max) and Ultra will give you a max of 1.520 something. That's for me on UD3 rev 3. I'm still doing some testing regarding LLC Settings that might help.
> 
> But the Basics:
> 
> +0.050 Ultra and High > +0.050 Medium and Regular.
> But
> 0.075 Regular and Medium > 0.050 Ultra and High.
> 
> There is about 0.020 Volts difference between the maximum readings that you can get from Ultra to Regular at same offsets.
> 
> +0.050 Extreme > +0.100 Regular (I will have to check again on this one. As I don't really use Extreme)
> 
> But it must be the chip mate. Mine would require too much Vcore too. Only that it happens at 4.8 and UP. Up to 4.5 I don't even need to add any Offsets. But need to bump to +0.100 to stabilize a 4.75. Depending on which combination I work with.
> 
> That cooler is so good to give you those temps as well.


Yeah, my chip wasn't stable at 4.5 without a .+025 bump, then 4.6 needed another and 4.7 is looking like it's gonna take +.100. Thankfully 4.5-4.6 gives a modest enough bump in gaming performance. Guess I'll start messing with LLC then thanks for the tips, looks like I lost out on the silicon lottery.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I have rev4 and APM disabled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that can't be it.


IIRC APM is connected to the turbo core. If your trying to do what he suggested by enabling turbocore and setting it to same clock as normal clock. Then you may need to enable apm aswell.


----------



## Hellsrage

Well, I did some testing and put the LLC to Regular with +.050, after about 5-8 mins of Prime95 the vCore jumped from 1.476 to 1.488. After it jumped to 1.488 the temps started climbing back up to 64C where I just decided to shut Prime95 down.

Not sure what to do now, LLC seems to be screwing me over more than helping me.

I'm also having this irritating issue with SpeedFan, for the first launch it hangs during the scanning, after it freezes and I end the process 50 times the next launch it works just fine. Anyone got a clue on what the hell could cause that?


----------



## dmfree88

speedfan has been buggy for some. not the best really.

you said you were using a water loop right? what clock are you at? getting pretty warm it seems


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> speedfan has been buggy for some. not the best really.
> 
> you said you were using a water loop right? what clock are you at? getting pretty warm it seems


4.6GHz, and yeah I have a water loop.


----------



## DampMonkey

Wish my UD3 had llc







Heat is not an issue for me, but stable overclocks are!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Well, I did some testing and put the LLC to Regular with +.050, after about 5-8 mins of Prime95 the vCore jumped from 1.476 to 1.488. After it jumped to 1.488 the temps started climbing back up to 64C where I just decided to shut Prime95 down.
> 
> Not sure what to do now, LLC seems to be screwing me over more than helping me.
> 
> I'm also having this irritating issue with SpeedFan, for the first launch it hangs during the scanning, after it freezes and I end the process 50 times the next launch it works just fine. Anyone got a clue on what the hell could cause that?


What MOBO rev. are you using? I don't really think Regular LLC at +0.050 will give you 1.488V at max. The highest I get from that offset with same LLC is about 1.404. I'd suspect some of the features were left ON. Such as Turbo Core.

If +0.050 Regular gives you high temps, Try doing it at Ultra at +0.025. If you are at 1.488 max on Regular +0.050, You'll be at around 1.464 at Ultra.









Also try tinkering with the CPU PLL and NB/PCIe PLL. Some said the max would be 2.695 Volts for the CPU PLL. But I'm doing mine with 2.795 on the CPU PLL and higher. NB/PCIe at 1.995 Volts. No major effects other than cooler temps.(Not that I'd suggest you try it at that high as I'm still ought to find out the effects) You can PROBABLY shave off up to 5 degrees by trying it at 2.695.

You also seem to understand the game so I won't suspect it to USER Error regarding the Cooler installation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Wish my UD3 had llc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heat is not an issue for me, but stable overclocks are!


Do compensate for the Vcore. UD3s with LLC aren't good either. I don't really think LLC on UD3 rev 3 helps with Vcore droops. You'll be annoyed IMO, if you see your Vcore jumps from 1.424 - 1.488 during load.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What MOBO rev. are you using? I don't really think Regular LLC at +0.050 will give you 1.488V at max. The highest I get from that offset with same LLC is about 1.404. I'd suspect some of the features were left ON. Such as Turbo Core.
> 
> If +0.050 Regular gives you high temps, Try doing it at Ultra at +0.025. If you are at 1.488 max on Regular +0.050, You'll be at around 1.464 at Ultra.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also try tinkering with the CPU PLL and NB/PCIe PLL. Some said the max would be 2.695 Volts for the CPU PLL. But I'm doing mine with 2.795 on the CPU PLL and higher. NB/PCIe at 1.995 Volts. No major effects other than cooler temps.(Not that I'd suggest you try it at that high as I'm still ought to find out the effects) You can PROBABLY shave off up to 5 degrees by trying it at 2.695.
> 
> You also seem to understand the game so I won't suspect it to USER Error regarding the Cooler installation.


I'll take some pics of my BIOS settings to be sure I'm not scrubbing something up. I did have to reseat my cooler after cleaning it a little while back, I'm contemplating doing it again just to make sure I didn't screw up with the thermal paste, I've got plenty of MX-4 left so guess I might as well.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> 4.6GHz, and yeah I have a water loop.


that sounds pretty low i mean i got better temps with my air cooler. you must have too little thermal paste. or mounted it wrong or something. Has to be something wrong here. I have heard of blocks getting clogged. even new ones. Is your pump running strong? Might want to try to open up your block and check for any obstructions if all else fails.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> that sounds pretty low i mean i got better temps with my air cooler. you must have too little thermal paste. or mounted it wrong or something.


I'll reseat the block and see if I get a temp change.

Here are my BIOS settings.


Voltage, I'm probably doing something wrong here.


Let me know if I'm screwing up somewhere.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> that sounds pretty low i mean i got better temps with my air cooler. you must have too little thermal paste. or mounted it wrong or something. Has to be something wrong here. I have heard of blocks getting clogged. even new ones. Is your pump running strong? Might want to try to open up your block and check for any obstructions if all else fails.


Yep, something isn't right there. Sure he is running a FX-8350, but still. I am currently over 1.5v on my FX-6350 (5Ghz, still not "stable" blah blah blah) and at 70F ambient, I idle at 31-32C, full load on Prime95 at 51C or so. I don't hit 60's unless the ambient is 80F or more.

Hellsrage, have you checked for kinks? made sure you are running the flow into the right barb (no going in the out door!) at the block, ecetera. I have made more than one small mistake that took me a while to catch as I falsely assumed I wouldn't miss something THAT basic. Just a couple of weeks ago, I came back to find my CPU running over 80C and throttling like mad. I has messed up the power connection for the pump and no water was moving at all. Damn near gave myself a heart attack.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I'll reseat the block and see if I get a temp change.
> 
> Here are my BIOS settings.
> 
> 
> Voltage, I'm probably doing something wrong here.
> 
> 
> Let me know if I'm screwing up somewhere.


Seems pretty much the way it should be. But as
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> that sounds pretty low i mean i got better temps with my air cooler. you must have too little thermal paste. or mounted it wrong or something. Has to be something wrong here. I have heard of blocks getting clogged. even new ones. Is your pump running strong? Might want to try to open up your block and check for any obstructions if all else fails.


Aside from the suspicious Vcore at that offset,
Their must also be something wrong with the cooler or installation.

Also, what BIOS do you currently have? If that's also on FC, I'd suggest you tweak with the PLL Voltages.
BTW, I think Vcore also depends on the Chip's VID. So I might be wrong when I said +0.050 won't give you 1.488 Volts.
So, If you can tell us your VID at Stock too.
Reset your Bios and disable turbo core. And make sure LLC is at Auto then take your CPU Core VID. I have mine (an 8320) at 1.337 for example.

Also, do you use any OC'ing software? Like Giga's Tweak Luncher, AMD Overdrive, etc.?

As any software OC will really override your BIOS settings. Those are my guesses why you have such high Vcore at that offset. 1.488 for me has to be +0.100 Regular maximum at LOAD..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Yep, something isn't right there. Sure he is running a FX-8350, but still. I am currently over 1.5v on my FX-6350 (5Ghz, still not "stable" blah blah blah) and at 70F ambient, I idle at 31-32C, full load on Prime95 at 51C or so. I don't hit 60's unless the ambient is 80F or more.
> 
> Hellsrage, have you checked for kinks? made sure you are running the flow into the right barb (no going in the out door!) at the block, ecetera. I have made more than one small mistake that took me a while to catch as I falsely assumed I wouldn't miss something THAT basic. Just a couple of weeks ago, I came back to find my CPU running over 80C and throttling like mad. I has messed up the power connection for the pump and no water was moving at all. Damn near gave myself a heart attack.


You also have to consider the fact that He has 2 more cores running than yours. Besides, there's also some issues on the Vcore Values.


----------



## Lowlife

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I'll reseat the block and see if I get a temp change.
> 
> Here are my BIOS settings.
> 
> 
> Voltage, I'm probably doing something wrong here.
> 
> 
> Let me know if I'm screwing up somewhere.


Vcore Loadline Calibration IS "LLC" last line in your second photo.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Seems pretty much the way it should be. But as
> 
> Aside from the suspicious Vcore at that offset,
> Their must also be something wrong with the cooler or installation.
> 
> Also, what BIOS do you currently have? If that's also on FC, I'd suggest you tweak with the PLL Voltages.
> BTW, I think Vcore also depends on the Chip's VID. So I might be wrong when I said +0.050 won't give you 1.488 Volts.
> So, If you can tell us your VID at Stock too.
> Reset your Bios and disable turbo core. And make sure LLC is at Auto then take your CPU Core VID. I have mine (an 8320) at 1.337 for example.
> 
> Also, do you use any OC'ing software? Like Giga's Tweak Luncher, AMD Overdrive, etc.?
> 
> As any software OC will really override your BIOS settings. Those are my guesses why you have such high Vcore at that offset. 1.488 for me has to be +0.100 Regular maximum at LOAD..


Okay, water block has been reseated, I may have had too little thermal paste on it after seeing how much was covered. My core VID is 1.375, which is also what it is when I OC.

I have yet to test temps so I guess I'll go set the BIOS back up, also I use no software to OC, BIOS only for me.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Okay, water block has been reseated, I may have had too little thermal paste on it after seeing how much was covered. My core VID is 1.375, which is also what it is when I OC.
> 
> I have yet to test temps so I guess I'll go set the BIOS back up, also I use no software to OC, BIOS only for me.


That confirmed why your VCore went so high after adding just 0.050 with the offset.

VID or Voltage Identification Digital is what your processor at stock speed (without Overclock) asks the Voltage regulators to give out to the cores. At OC scenario, you can see that it stays at that value. But the real value would now be equal to that VID + your given offsets. Or in the case of other MOBOs, get overridden by the values you set in the BIOS. But VID stays at that value for some software. Such as AMD Overdrive.

Also, take note of that cooler. Ensure that nothing is restricting the flow. That is sufficient enough to cool your processor IMO. Unless your ambient is high enough that water temps get saturated. Also try different fan setting if you can. PUSH is better on some, while others get better temps using PULL configuration. Or try out Push-Pull. Those stock fans need to be replaced by better ones if you want to unleash the potential of the cooler provided you already knew that the cooler is running like the way it should be. So make sure of that first.

I'm no expert but the way I see it, something is wrong there. Also try to provide a better cooling solution on the VRMs. Users report better temps with cooler running VRMs.


----------



## Hellsrage

Okay, I put it back to 4.6 on Regular LLC with a +.050 on the vCore.

For the first 5 or so mins when the vCore was at 1.476 the temps were a lot better but after 5 or so mins the vCore jumped to 1.488 and from there on the temps slowly climbed to 65C. The temps climbed a lot slower but 1.488 appears to be too much for my cooler, maybe I need better fans as the stock ones are not that great and could be having a hard time dissipating the heat from the rad?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Okay, I put it back to 4.6 on Regular LLC with a +.050 on the vCore.
> 
> For the first 5 or so mins when the vCore was at 1.476 the temps were a lot better but after 5 or so mins the vCore jumped to 1.488 and from there on the temps slowly climbed to 65C. The temps climbed a lot slower but 1.488 appears to be too much for my cooler, maybe I need better fans as the stock ones are not that great and could be having a hard time dissipating the heat from the rad?


I'm getting identical temps on my Silver Arrow at that Voltages. But I'm running it at 4.8Ghz and I'm not using Prime for stress test. So I gotta give it to ya'.
Don't fret though, your cooler can still unleash better performance with better fans.









Will you be unstable if you change your offset to +0.025 at Ultra LLC? You can try that. And manually setting up your PLL voltages.

Try CPU PLL with 2.695 V
NB/PCIe/ at 1.895 V
Observe your temps. It helps with stability and temps.

One more thing, But this is for everyone,

Have you guys noticed the edges of the CPU being somewhat a tad higher than the middle area of the CPU? Or the CPU lid isn't really flat?

I shaved off mine!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Okay, I put it back to 4.6 on Regular LLC with a +.050 on the vCore.
> 
> For the first 5 or so mins when the vCore was at 1.476 the temps were a lot better but after 5 or so mins the vCore jumped to 1.488 and from there on the temps slowly climbed to 65C. The temps climbed a lot slower but 1.488 appears to be too much for my cooler, maybe I need better fans as the stock ones are not that great and could be having a hard time dissipating the heat from the rad?


have you tried uping cpu pll try 2.695 helped my temps. I ALSO hear ppl not using llc cpu ribs cooler under load


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm getting identical temps on my Silver Arrow at that Voltages. But I'm running it at 4.8Ghz and I'm not using Prime for stress test. So I gotta give it to ya'.
> Don't fret though, your cooler can still unleash better performance with better fans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will you be unstable if you change your offset to +0.025 at Ultra LLC? You can try that. And manually setting up your PLL voltages.
> 
> Try CPU PLL with 2.695 V
> NB/PCIe/ at 1.895 V
> Observe your temps. It helps with stability and temps.
> 
> One more thing, But this is for everyone,
> 
> Have you guys noticed the edges of the CPU being somewhat a tad higher than the middle area of the CPU? Or the CPU lid isn't really flat?
> 
> I shaved off mine!


I'll probably pick up a few fans, are there any good 120mm fans that you recommend? I've got a thin rad.

I did try Ultra with a .025 offset but I had a core fail after 10 minutes of Prime95. Really wish Gigabyte would give better control over vCore, offsets blow.

When I was reseating the block I did notice that the edges didn't seem flush with the middle of the chip, wonder why it's like that?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> I'll probably pick up a few fans, are there any good 120mm fans that you recommend? I've got a thin rad.
> 
> I did try Ultra with a .025 offset but I had a core fail after 10 minutes of Prime95. Really wish Gigabyte would give better control over vCore, offsets blow.
> 
> When I was reseating the block I did notice that the edges didn't seem flush with the middle of the chip, wonder why it's like that?


http://martinsliquidlab.org/category/fans/ for the fan testing he made. His system of testing seemed realistic. I can't really recommend mate. I haven't been into WC yet.









Also give your CPU NB Voltage a small bump. Even if you are running at stock FSB and CPU NB. That will also help with stability.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Okay, I put it back to 4.6 on Regular LLC with a +.050 on the vCore.
> 
> For the first 5 or so mins when the vCore was at 1.476 the temps were a lot better but after 5 or so mins the vCore jumped to 1.488 and from there on the temps slowly climbed to 65C. The temps climbed a lot slower but 1.488 appears to be too much for my cooler, maybe I need better fans as the stock ones are not that great and could be having a hard time dissipating the heat from the rad?


as mentioned above maybe try setting LLC to Auto or OFF if possible. you may have to increase your vcore higher to compensate. But you may see better temps during loads atleast, and less vcore fluctuations (even if the offset is larger).

Maybe the cooler isn't the best I dunno seems strange though. Or maybe as mentioned just need some better fans working? Wish we had someone here with the same kit to know







. Decent bang for buck fans seem to be the Cougar line-up. Around 10-15 bucks each fluid vortex bearing (300k lifetime) and decent static pressure for cost. I think the new colored ones cost more (and are actually worse) but the older vortex orange or black ones are on sale for around 10 from newegg often.

http://www.cougar-world.com/us/products/fans.html

highest static pressure:
http://www.cougar-world.com/us/products/fans/vortex_pwm.html

Off subject i thought this would interest the club:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



The AMD FX-9590 is the world's first 5GHz CPU processor with 4.7GHz base frequency and 5GHz turbo frequency. The ground-breaking frequency with eight cores delivers new levels of gaming and multimedia performance for desktop enthusiasts. You can immerse yourself in the most advanced 3D games, and achieve extreme mega-tasking with ease.

Based on the 32nm "Piledriver" architecture, the AMD FX-9590 is fully unlocked for easy overclocking, and paves the way for enthusiasts to enjoy higher CPU speeds and related performance gains*. AMD Turbo Core 3.0 technology dynamically optimizes performance across CPU cores, and enables maximum computing for the most intensive workloads.

Dive into pure core performance, and feel and enjoy unmatched multitasking and extreme responsiveness.

This CPU is only compatible with the following 990FX motherboards:

ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z, GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD7 and ASRock 990FX Extreme9.

*AMD's product warranty does not cover damage caused by overclocking (even when overclocking is enabled via AMD OverDrive software).


Looks like only 3 types of mobos currently supported. Shows which boards are the best that actually can handle over 5ghz without a hiccup


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> as mentioned above maybe try setting LLC to Auto or OFF if possible. you may have to increase your vcore higher to compensate. But you may see better temps during loads atleast, and less vcore fluctuations (even if the offset is larger).
> 
> Maybe the cooler isn't the best I dunno seems strange though. Or maybe as mentioned just need some better fans working? Wish we had someone here with the same kit to know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Decent bang for buck fans seem to be the Cougar line-up. Around 10-15 bucks each fluid vortex bearing (300k lifetime) and decent static pressure for cost. I think the new colored ones cost more (and are actually worse) but the older vortex orange or black ones are on sale for around 10 from newegg often.
> 
> http://www.cougar-world.com/us/products/fans.html
> 
> highest static pressure:
> http://www.cougar-world.com/us/products/fans/vortex_pwm.html
> 
> Off subject i thought this would interest the club:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> The AMD FX-9590 is the world's first 5GHz CPU processor with 4.7GHz base frequency and 5GHz turbo frequency. The ground-breaking frequency with eight cores delivers new levels of gaming and multimedia performance for desktop enthusiasts. You can immerse yourself in the most advanced 3D games, and achieve extreme mega-tasking with ease.
> 
> Based on the 32nm "Piledriver" architecture, the AMD FX-9590 is fully unlocked for easy overclocking, and paves the way for enthusiasts to enjoy higher CPU speeds and related performance gains*. AMD Turbo Core 3.0 technology dynamically optimizes performance across CPU cores, and enables maximum computing for the most intensive workloads.
> 
> Dive into pure core performance, and feel and enjoy unmatched multitasking and extreme responsiveness.
> 
> This CPU is only compatible with the following 990FX motherboards:
> 
> ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z, GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD7 and ASRock 990FX Extreme9.
> 
> *AMD's product warranty does not cover damage caused by overclocking (even when overclocking is enabled via AMD OverDrive software).
> 
> 
> Looks like only 3 types of mobos currently supported. Shows which boards are the best that actually can handle over 5ghz without a hiccup


I don't know if LLC can be turned off on his UD3. I can't turn off mine on a UD3 Rev 3 (assuming he has the same) Or am I wrong?

Is there a way to turn off LLC on a UD3 r3?

Off your MOBO list, CHV seemed the most expensive, UD7 lies in the middle and Extreme 9 at the bottom. Any idea if the Extreme 9 can match the other two in terms of OC capability?

I might have to get one given the assurance that it can.









Also off topic.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1417512/bitspower-fittings-and-water-temp-sensor-corrode-corrosion-after-i-used-a-bit-of-vinegar-for-36hrs-in-the-loop-with-copper-sulphate-and-copper-silver#post_20585398


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I don't know if LLC can be turned off on his UD3. I can't turn off mine on a UD3 Rev 3 (assuming he has the same) Or am I wrong?
> 
> Is there a way to turn off LLC on a UD3 r3?
> 
> Off your MOBO list, CHV seemed the most expensive, UD7 lies in the middle and Extreme 9 at the bottom. Any idea if the Extreme 9 can match the other two in terms of OC capability?
> 
> I might have to get one given the assurance that it can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also off topic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1417512/bitspower-fittings-and-water-temp-sensor-corrode-corrosion-after-i-used-a-bit-of-vinegar-for-36hrs-in-the-loop-with-copper-sulphate-and-copper-silver#post_20585398


No, LLC can only be set to Auto on Rev. 3, there is no off.









Wow, I have some growth in my setup too, I cleaned out what I could with distilled water because I was worried if vinegar would screw something up. Looks like I might be safe to attack the growth now though since all the stock stuff was fine.

In other news I'm a freaking idiot! So, I just discovered one of my 2 stock 120mm fans came unplugged at some point, so you know what might cause high temps? Half of your freaking rad not getting cooled!


----------



## dmfree88

haha yeah that would be a problem.

Yeah vineger is not recommended as shown in the post linked by mus1mus.

always better to just flush with water, safer that way.


----------



## Gereti

hey guy's, i first asked this from saberbooth club, but now i ask from here:
i have now asrock 970 extreme 4, what i send soon on warranty (melted(second time))
if i get new mobo, i was planning to chance it to gigabyte ud5 or saberbooth, broblem is i need 2 pci-e x16 slot and one pci slot
i have now 7870 but i should get on next week 6970 ref, and i was planning to get another 6970 ref to CF, but i need that damn pci slot to my audiocard (sound blaster X-Fi extreme gamer)

So, how good is thsi ud5 on overclocking with air (Mugen3), or water (was planning to grap 240mm kit from alphacool (This one http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1155_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Cool-Answer-240-LT-ST---Set.html?language=en&XTCsid=60fqjo1ebeo611h7g86t6gf2n3 )

CPu is now 960T and would like to upgrade it maby some day, to FX8XXX series when 960T isn't enought any more (yeas, i have unlocked it too but it's now 100% stable, don't know why, melted mobo?, or just my luck)

So, what's the plan guy's?


----------



## Hellsrage

Okay, just finished a 15 minute Prime95 run. LLC set to Auto, 4.6GHz, CPU PLL set to 2.695v, my max vCore was 1.476 and it stayed like that through the whole 15mins and max temp 54C. No core failure. Who knew one fan could matter that much.









Now to see if I can get stable at lower volts since people have reported better stability with the CPU PLL set like that. Still gonna pick up those Gentle Typhoon AP-15s though as the stock fans are loud and don't push as much air, they work but hey those extra degrees matter.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Okay, just finished a 15 minute Prime95 run. LLC set to Auto, 4.6GHz, CPU PLL set to 2.695v, my max vCore was 1.476 and it stayed like that through the whole 15mins and max temp 54C. No core failure. Who knew one fan could matter that much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to see if I can get stable at lower volts since people have reported better stability with the CPU PLL set like that. Still gonna pick up those Gentle Typhoon AP-15s though as the stock fans are loud and don't push as much air, they work but hey those extra degrees matter.


You can lower Vcore by your using LLC.
For Example:

If +0.050 on Regular = 1.488 max, try to use Ultra at +0.025 instead of lowering it a step using the same Regular LLC. The Vcore max should be halfway between Vcore max at +0.050 and +0.025 at Regular.

And if Ultra at +0.025 = 1.472 max, you can lower it by using Regular LLC at +0.025 instead of going down one step at Ultra. That will net you a Vcore of 1.464 max. So the steps are a bit finer by doing that.

What it gives is actually a gradual increase or decrease from a certain value not achievable by using the same LLC setting.

CPU PLL does add some stability.







And helped with my temps.


----------



## dmfree88

I think i mentioned this before, its better to set LLC based on offset/stability. Not to adjust vcore. If you need more vcore to be stable increase vcore, if you need less decrease. Better to keep LLC at most stable with the least amount of offset, while keeping set to the lowest setting (which is why this should be adjusted when your at stock and already likely stable). Otherwise you are putting alot of strain on your power delivery system that is not needed. if your running at extreme just to increase vcore without actually increasing idle vcore your just getting same result, but one = worse for your PC.

Hellsrage now that your fans are working I would recommend still tinkering with the LLC. Auto can be best for some but the lowest possible setting is usually preferred if it gives the least stable offset (vcore change from idle to load).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I think i mentioned this before, its better to set LLC based on offset/stability. Not to adjust vcore. If you need more vcore to be stable increase vcore, if you need less decrease. Better to keep LLC at most stable with the least amount of offset, while keeping set to the lowest setting (which is why this should be adjusted when your at stock and already likely stable). Otherwise you are putting alot of strain on your power delivery system that is not needed. if your running at extreme just to increase vcore without actually increasing idle vcore your just getting same result, but one = worse for your PC.
> 
> Hellsrage now that your fans are working I would recommend still tinkering with the LLC. Auto can be best for some but the lowest possible setting is usually preferred if it gives the least stable offset (vcore change from idle to load).


This can be a valid point. However, UD3 rev3 acts differently from other revisions as well as the other series. You can't see my point valid? You better use the same MOBO so you can experience what I am talking about.

While other MOBO got the luxury of finer Voltage adjustments, and SOMEWHAT offers fixed ( what you see in Idle is the value you set) maximum Voltages, the UD3 revision 3 is acting the opposite. Either LLC setting will offer you the same thing. That is, that they will tend to increase Core Voltage upon the presence of a LOAD. Stressing your CPU, which at Idle for example has a Vcore of 1.404, will cause the Power Section to increase the Vcore by about 0.080 Volts. And it doesn't even matter which LLC you use. How that affect your temps is obvious. If you can Use a graph to record the voltage fluctuation with regard to the load applied, you'll see that Vcore goes to the maximum at more load. You need to verify that? Use the said MOBO.

What is different for each LLC setting, on my MOBO and CPU for example, is that, Extreme at stock or +0.000 Already has a Value of 1.424 at Idle, While Ultra and High is at 1.364, while Regular and Medium is at the stock VID of 1.337 Volts. Auto and Normal LLC is at 1.337 Volts as well. And all of those values goes up by about 0.080 volts minimum to maximum during load. Is it Vdroop? NO. As the voltages were higher at LOAD than during IDLE.. Does the TREND continues even if you add offsets? YES!

How about your UD5 and the UD7? Their Vcore Value were at max during Idle. And less during Load. Thus your point is VALID.

What I am saying about using the LLC to lower the Vcore is explained already above. So if you can, or you need proof, use the MOBO. Try it out.









What I suggest is that. While keeping stability at check, lowering a step off your offset at the same LLC would either mean, you'll be running cooler, or gets unstable because of the Core Voltage that dropped by 0.025 Volts. But if you can somewhat lower or decrease that by a finer margin, 0.0125 by using LLC, you know what it can do. Lower your temps, while offering a lesser chance of getting unstable. As your Vcore decreased by a finer amount compared using just the offset Value of 0.025.

Does it even matter? YES! if you are squeezing out every inch of performance from your system, CPU, MOBO and COOLER, you know for sure that every DEGREE CELSIUS shaved matters as much as every MHz you can add. I'll leave it at that. If others try it out, they'll see the point.


----------



## Hellsrage

Hmm, my board is strange. I currently have it set to +.025 with "Ultra High" LLC at 4.6. It passed a 15min Prime95 test and the temps were good maxed at 53C, the voltage at idle is 1.416 and at load 1.464, now the strange thing is with LLC set to "High" it has the exact same voltage readings BUT it's not stable about 8-10mins in to Prime95 a core will fail. Also should they be the same exact voltage?

Also, I attempted to get 4.7GHz but even at 1.488 it's not stable, not sure if I should just keep pushing or stick with 4.6GHz?


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> hey guy's, i first asked this from saberbooth club, but now i ask from here:
> i have now asrock 970 extreme 4, what i send soon on warranty (melted(second time))
> if i get new mobo, i was planning to chance it to gigabyte ud5 or saberbooth, broblem is i need 2 pci-e x16 slot and one pci slot
> i have now 7870 but i should get on next week 6970 ref, and i was planning to get another 6970 ref to CF, but i need that damn pci slot to my audiocard (sound blaster X-Fi extreme gamer)
> 
> So, how good is thsi ud5 on overclocking with air (Mugen3), or water (was planning to grap 240mm kit from alphacool (This one http://www.alphacool.com/product_info.php/info/p1155_Alphacool-NexXxoS-Cool-Answer-240-LT-ST---Set.html?language=en&XTCsid=60fqjo1ebeo611h7g86t6gf2n3 )
> 
> CPu is now 960T and would like to upgrade it maby some day, to FX8XXX series when 960T isn't enought any more (yeas, i have unlocked it too but it's now 100% stable, don't know why, melted mobo?, or just my luck)
> 
> So, what's the plan guy's?


I can't speak for the Sabertooth but from the photos I've seen of the UD5 there should be more than enough room for 2x Crossfire and 1x PCI card, especially since the PCI Legacy slot was left at the very bottom.

As for its overclocking potentials, I really can't speak here I have only had a UD3, but I'm sure one of the UD5 owners can give you better input.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> that sir would be awesome...
> 
> I however now get this every time I reboot... (only reboot... boot from a shutdown is fine... and super fast)
> 
> 
> 
> I then "Enter bios" ... save and exit... and system boots fine... Every time!
> 
> Its annoying as all get out. But otherwise the system is crazy dead stable.


I used to have this problem when Overclocking and I finally figured out that it was actually Windows 8 Fast Boot causing the problem.
It stores some stuff for faster booting but if anything has changed it won't boot.
It might help and you can always turn it back on easly'
http://www.addictivetips.com/windows-tips/what-is-fast-startup-windows-8-disable-it/


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> This can be a valid point. However, UD3 rev3 acts differently from other revisions as well as the other series. You can't see my point valid? You better use the same MOBO so you can experience what I am talking about.
> 
> While other MOBO got the luxury of finer Voltage adjustments, and SOMEWHAT offers fixed ( what you see in Idle is the value you set) maximum Voltages, the UD3 revision 3 is acting the opposite. Either LLC setting will offer you the same thing. That is, that they will tend to increase Core Voltage upon the presence of a LOAD. Stressing your CPU, which at Idle for example has a Vcore of 1.404, will cause the Power Section to increase the Vcore by about 0.080 Volts. And it doesn't even matter which LLC you use. How that affect your temps is obvious. If you can Use a graph to record the voltage fluctuation with regard to the load applied, you'll see that Vcore goes to the maximum at more load. You need to verify that? Use the said MOBO.
> 
> What is different for each LLC setting, on my MOBO and CPU for example, is that, Extreme at stock or +0.000 Already has a Value of 1.424 at Idle, While Ultra and High is at 1.364, while Regular and Medium is at the stock VID of 1.337 Volts. Auto and Normal LLC is at 1.337 Volts as well. And all of those values goes up by about 0.080 volts minimum to maximum during load. Is it Vdroop? NO. As the voltages were higher at LOAD than during IDLE.. Does the TREND continues even if you add offsets? YES!
> 
> How about your UD5 and the UD7? Their Vcore Value were at max during Idle. And less during Load. Thus your point is VALID.
> 
> What I am saying about using the LLC to lower the Vcore is explained already above. So if you can, or you need proof, use the MOBO. Try it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What I suggest is that. While keeping stability at check, lowering a step off your offset at the same LLC would either mean, you'll be running cooler, or gets unstable because of the Core Voltage that dropped by 0.025 Volts. But if you can somewhat lower or decrease that by a finer margin, 0.0125 by using LLC, you know what it can do. Lower your temps, while offering a lesser chance of getting unstable. As your Vcore decreased by a finer amount compared using just the offset Value of 0.025.
> 
> Does it even matter? YES! if you are squeezing out every inch of performance from your system, CPU, MOBO and COOLER, you know for sure that every DEGREE CELSIUS shaved matters as much as every MHz you can add. I'll leave it at that. If others try it out, they'll see the point.


I understand your point as you have strange LLC. I have never heard of LLC changing stock voltage of a board. Generally LLC changes the load offset. For my UD5 it starts at whatever its set at vcore-wise and stays there (if i put it at 1.42 it stays there until loaded under ANY llc setting) . Lower llc (normal/auto) causes vdroop that just keeps going (droops until crash even if i increase vcore). Then if I go up to high/ultra high/extreme I get the SAME results from all 3 but ultra high/extreme are more jolty while high is smooth (all have slight vboost). I have never heard of LLC working the way you describe, I understand your approach though, gives you a little bit of playing room.

@Hellsrage Your LLC seems to be functioning more similar to mine. If you graph your vcore I am sure you will see that on high you probably got a vcore jolt that caused the worker to crash, Where as on ultra high it was more stable through-out. LLC sometimes produces the same results on each setting but will be more jolty if its up to high or occasionally could spike down if just not high enough (even if its just a jolty jump back down to idle vcore it can still cause workers to fail)


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I understand your point as you have strange LLC. I have never heard of LLC changing stock voltage of a board. Generally LLC changes the load offset. For my UD5 it starts at whatever its set at vcore-wise and stays there (if i put it at 1.42 it stays there until loaded under ANY llc setting) . Lower llc (normal/auto) causes vdroop that just keeps going (droops until crash even if i increase vcore). Then if I go up to high/ultra high/extreme I get the SAME results from all 3 but ultra high/extreme are more jolty while high is smooth (all have slight vboost). I have never heard of LLC working the way you describe, I understand your approach though, gives you a little bit of playing room.
> 
> @Hellsrage Your LLC seems to be functioning more similar to mine. If you graph your vcore I am sure you will see that on high you probably got a vcore jolt that caused the worker to crash, Where as on ultra high it was more stable through-out. LLC sometimes produces the same results on each setting but will be more jolty if its up to high or occasionally could spike down if just not high enough (even if its just a jolty jump back down to idle vcore it can still cause workers to fail)


No its not strange, i first set my Vcore at 1.56 in bios with LLC on extreme and that gets me an idle Vcore of 1.535 now when i set it to ultra high i get idle 1.56 volts like the i set in the bios.

At load i got 1.58 on extreme and 1.600 with ultra high with the same Vcore i did last time.


----------



## dmfree88

that seems strange to me







. I guess its more common then i thought though. Whatever works best


----------



## LazarusIV

Quick question for those of you with watercooled UD5s and UD7s... will this block fit on my 990FXA-UD5 mobo or no? If I remember correctly the UD5 and UD7 have the same VRM layout, am I right?

EDIT: Upon closer inspection, it looks like the VRMs are in the same spot but not the Northbridge... anyone know of a waterblock I can use for my UD5 VRMs and NB?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I understand your point as you have strange LLC. I have never heard of LLC changing stock voltage of a board. Generally LLC changes the load offset. For my UD5 it starts at whatever its set at vcore-wise and stays there (if i put it at 1.42 it stays there until loaded under ANY llc setting) . Lower llc (normal/auto) causes vdroop that just keeps going (droops until crash even if i increase vcore). Then if I go up to high/ultra high/extreme I get the SAME results from all 3 but ultra high/extreme are more jolty while high is smooth (all have slight vboost). I have never heard of LLC working the way you describe, I understand your approach though, gives you a little bit of playing room.
> 
> @Hellsrage Your LLC seems to be functioning more similar to mine. If you graph your vcore I am sure you will see that on high you probably got a vcore jolt that caused the worker to crash, Where as on ultra high it was more stable through-out. LLC sometimes produces the same results on each setting but will be more jolty if its up to high or occasionally could spike down if just not high enough (even if its just a jolty jump back down to idle vcore it can still cause workers to fail)


@Hellsrage

That's one reason I didn't even mentioning trying out High and Medium.







They somewhat act a bit differently than Ultra and Regular. The reason why you failed using High and Passed on Ultra with the same voltage settings and values is that, Ultra reacts faster to load than High. As a result, if you can graph it using OCCT as
@dmfree88
mentioned, you will see that Ultra has a higher average voltage during Load than High.

Trying out 4.7 is not a bad idea. Just make sure you can cool it down. Also make sure your VRMs get a good cooling. As that would also yield you lower CPU temps. I can get to 4.7 without a problem using the multiplier by using an offset of +0.075 Regular or 1.464 at load.

But note though as I only use AIDA Stress Test not Prime. You'll need more Vcore using PRIME. Am I stable using AIDA? On a daily basis yes. Gaming? yes. Completely stable?







But that is just my preference.









@dmfree88

No, it's not that strange. Maybe just the way Gigabyte designed it. Remember the UD3 is not made for the Hexa-FX's. They are meant to be used with 6 cores the most. That's one reason why people can't get better clocks than the UD5s and UD7s using the UD3.

It also has a bad effect Temp-wise since Vcore goes higher than the Voltage at Idle. The more load your system is subjected to, the higher they go, the hotter is your system. It's useful if the Vcore stays at the max during Load. You can just predict it would stay there. But naah!







It jumps back from minimum to maximum at a random behavior. Thus causing you trouble when trying to stabilize.

But I came up with a technique of my own to counter this.

I first set my frequency to my desired value. Adjust the Offset on a given LLC( Regular to start with), Test. If it's unstable, I add a step of an offset, stable? Look at the Temps. Too hot for my taste, I would back off the offset and use Ultra LLC.

For example, If I use +0.100 on Regular, Stable but too hot, I back down to +0.075 at Ultra. (to net me a Vcore that lies between +0.075 and +0.100 on Regular). Test again, If I could pass the stability testing with that setting, I go back to the BIOS and use +0.100 Using Ultra and use that setting as a daily set-up. (Temps while stressing will be much much higher than your daily temps you won't even reach half of what you get on a daily basis).

I have yet to use an app that could stress all 8-cores at once for longer time. So I don't worry about temps after stressing.


----------



## dmfree88

if it were back in the day id say converting cause it used to take HOURS (days sometimes). But yeah nowadays even converting videos is done so fast theres not alot out there to stress it that much. Folding does though, not much else.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> if it were back in the day id say converting cause it used to take HOURS (days sometimes). But yeah nowadays even converting videos is done so fast theres not alot out there to stress it that much. Folding does though, not much else.


Like I said, I've yet to use them. So no worries until I delve into those things. I might have to back down on my OC then. Or a better cooler.









How's your rig doing mate? Any benchmark you can show?


----------



## dmfree88

I JUST got a 23 inch 1080p







will be benching later.. working right now.

Hope this is a decent model i got it for $90 on clist, makes my old one look tiny:

Acer 231hl on the left
acer x173w on the right


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I JUST got a 23 inch 1080p
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will be benching later.. working right now.
> 
> Hope this is a decent model i got it for $90 on clist, makes my old one look tiny:
> 
> Acer 231hl on the left
> acer x173w on the right


Nice! I picked up a 24" 1080p to replace my 21" 1600x900 (It's used as a second monitor now) when I built this computer. It's not an IPS but since I play competitive games a lot I would rather have a faster response time than a better image, although I will have to pick up a nice IPS monitor in the future.

I can't wait for it to get colder out here where I live, gonna see if I can use the heat my system generates to warm my room. Maybe I can skip turning the heater on this year.


----------



## dmfree88

Might be a dumb question but whats IPS?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Might be a dumb question but whats IPS?


IPS Panels http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPS_panel

It's the current trend in LED Monitors that mainly improve the viewing angle of your monitor.


----------



## Mega Man

long story short longer response time and beter pic/ color reproduction


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> long story short longer response time and beter pic/ color reproduction


Longer Response time - True compared to TN Panels ( for cheap IPS panels that is) but still dependent on the Brand or Manufacturer's stated Measurement.

However, most premium models have a response time of less than 10ms for (Grey to Grey). The best ones offer 6ms up to 5ms. Although the best TN (Premium models) panels can offer up to 2ms of response times, in real life, you can no longer perceive a response time that's less than 10ms. Unless you compare both models side by side.

So for GAMING (if you are hard core enough), recommended response time would be 10ms or less.







or get those premium TNs that has 2ms response times.









But in short, It's very much like choosing between a 120Hz and 144Hz Monitor Refresh rates. It's easy if talking about 60 Hz and 120 Hz though.









Picture Quality wise - True too. But a matter of preference, use and things like that. Same thing as above. You need to test both side by side to tell the difference.


----------



## dmfree88

so mines 5ms so im doin ok.. I doubt its IPS otherwise I woulda spent more on it haha. im so lost in the screen though ITS HUGE. crazy going from 17 inches to 23.


----------



## mus1mus

I hear you mate. I'm working with a 19" and a 23". At home is a 32" TV turned Monitor. lol


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> so mines 5ms so im doin ok.. I doubt its IPS otherwise I woulda spent more on it haha. im so lost in the screen though ITS HUGE. crazy going from 17 inches to 23.


just wait !~ soon you will get eyefinity !~


----------



## dmfree88

my desk isnt big enough for eyefinity







. Someday I will get a nice water-cooling rig and go for that though, someday







.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Like I said, I've yet to use them. So no worries until I delve into those things. I might have to back down on my OC then. Or a better cooler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How's your rig doing mate? Any benchmark you can show?


I still need to test some things to push cpu a bit further, overclock my ram and see what happens after all that but heres atleast a test at 1080p on ultra:


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I still need to test some things to push cpu a bit further, overclock my ram and see what happens after all that but heres atleast a test at 1080p on ultra:


Good one.

Just a question. This is done on air right? On a D14? We can compare our scores. I'll try running the same benchmark later. And if this done using the multiplier OC, It'll be good to compare with my Combo OC.









Don't have time to tweak on Multi so I will be comparing with what you got.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah im using the D14. I also am only at 4.5ghz. will bump up to 4.7 and test again soon. Check this out though:

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7326927

Amazing score compared to my previous.

http://www.3dmark.com/search#/?mode=advanced&url=/proxycon/ajax/search/cpugpu/3dm11/P/1541/765/9899?minScore=8800&cpuName=AMD%20FX-8350&gpuName=AMD%20Radeon%20HD%207870

go to number of GPUs select 1, I am number 10 out of all with a fx-8350 and a single 7870. If I were to overclock the cpu to 4.7ghz I MIGHT be able to snag 1st place with a better physics score. Still havent overclocked my ram either i dunno how much that will effect a 3dmark score though.


----------



## mus1mus

Very Nice!!









I just wonder why you shut down your Crossfire?

I am just running a single card. A GTX 650Ti-Boost that I can OC to 1100 Mhz.
Better try out 3D Mark 11 as well later.










4.7 will pull that score up for sure. I'm not too sure about the RAM if OC. Though I know you can still Pull out better score by OC'ing that 7870.









By the way Here's what I can get at 4.8 on Passmark.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=14239023830


----------



## dmfree88

it is OC'd thats how i got such a decent score







(also just realized actually #2 of VALID scores, although that usually doesnt matter much). I will try pushing the CPU tomorrow and see what sort of score i can get. I dont have crossfire though I only have one GPU. Hope to upgrade someday but I will need a better psu and hopefully can find another 7870 hawk







or maybe just get dual 290x by then.

Thats funny you have a 650ti boost because I just sold one of those to buy this card. Managed to get $160 shipped for the boost and bought this for $175 shipped. I wasnt impressed with it while it was working right. I ended up sending it in for RMA. When I got the next one back i sold it while it was still new. Then I got this 7870 hawk 1 year used under 3 year warranty, I feel blessed with this upgrade







. I actually started out with a 560ti believe it or not and kept trading up until i ended up at the 7870 lol.

Im headed to bed though. Try to get some benching in tomorrow after work







. Also I was gonna test something with the cores for someone, may have been you but I will post results for that aswell







. Gnight


----------



## mus1mus

I know your 7870 is a lot better than a 650Ti-Boost. i just wonder how mine can fair with yours TBH.







As I have pushed it before it starts creeping in. Gotta try running some 3D benches later. Can you point me out to a 3D mark download site? I've run on the one before. Gotta try it out again. And that Unigine if you may.

I'm not too sure if I got the same one.


----------



## dmfree88

http://www.majorgeeks.com/files/details/3dmark_11.html

http://unigine.com/products/heaven/download/

k now im really goin to bed


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> yeah im using the D14. I also am only at 4.5ghz. will bump up to 4.7 and test again soon. Check this out though:
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7326927
> 
> Amazing score compared to my previous.
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/search#/?mode=advanced&url=/proxycon/ajax/search/cpugpu/3dm11/P/1541/765/9899?minScore=8800&cpuName=AMD%20FX-8350&gpuName=AMD%20Radeon%20HD%207870
> 
> go to number of GPUs select 1, I am number 10 out of all with a fx-8350 and a single 7870. If I were to overclock the cpu to 4.7ghz I MIGHT be able to snag 1st place with a better physics score. Still havent overclocked my ram either i dunno how much that will effect a 3dmark score though.


yes ram will help physics, as does cpu/nb ( not alot, but it does help )


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes ram will help physics, as does cpu/nb ( not alot, but it does help )


Well, HTLink can also help with the graphics performance as well. Even with a single GPU. I have mine running for quite a while with a CPU-NB and HTLink running both at 2500MHz.

While benching and testing an OC'd GPU, I noticed my old OC settings fail a couple of timse that I checked on my HTLink and bumped it from 2500 to 2750. And it did net me an average score much higher than BEFORE.

Just when I thought it's better for the CPU-NB and HTLink to be at the same clocks!!

Proof?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=14239023830



From the average ranking of 3500+ Passmark Score


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html



And Users getting score of


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GTX+650+Ti+BOOST&id=2479



That's already a big boost right?

But honestly the boost can be summarized as a couple FPS in every test more from my last TESTS. LOL


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well, HTLink can also help with the graphics performance as well. Even with a single GPU. I have mine running for quite a while with a CPU-NB and HTLink running both at 2500MHz.
> 
> While benching and testing an OC'd GPU, I noticed my old OC settings fail a couple of timse that I checked on my HTLink and bumped it from 2500 to 2750. And it did net me an average score much higher than BEFORE.
> 
> Just when I thought it's better for the CPU-NB and HTLink to be at the same clocks!!
> 
> Proof?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=14239023830
> 
> 
> 
> From the average ranking of 3500+ Passmark Score
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/high_end_gpus.html
> 
> 
> 
> And Users getting score of
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.videocardbenchmark.net/gpu.php?gpu=GeForce+GTX+650+Ti+BOOST&id=2479
> 
> 
> 
> That's already a big boost right?
> 
> But honestly the boost can be summarized as a couple FPS in every test more from my last TESTS. LOL


Does any of that actually translate to real performance in actual games? Just curious cause if it does, I might actually bother tweaking with that crap again, I play some games where a couple FPS would be nice.


----------



## mus1mus

To be honest, in real life, yes. But that is just a very little amount you can still live without bothering with it really.

But on mine, movement was smoother and transitions faster.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Does any of that actually translate to real performance in actual games? Just curious cause if it does, I might actually bother tweaking with that crap again, I play some games where a couple FPS would be nice.


yes but usually less then 1%, depending on the game. a few fps....


----------



## dmfree88

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7331745

i dont think i can do better with this current rig. able to get 4th place out of all with a fx-8350 and a single 7870. I also realized that the gpu vddc in hwinfo64 is not the voltage for the gpu. Even though it reads 1.219 under load and drops during idle its apparently false. When in msi afterburner it reads +.041v from whatever its set to (may just be set high for when it loads up i havent checked load vs idle gpu voltage)

also after my thermal paste has cured and putting my side panel back on my temps seemed to have improved:



Might be able to push 4.7 now under 60. seems great for daily oc though


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7331745
> 
> i dont think i can do better with this current rig. able to get 4th place out of all with a fx-8350 and a single 7870. I also realized that the gpu vddc in hwinfo64 is not the voltage for the gpu. Even though it reads 1.219 under load and drops during idle its apparently false. When in msi afterburner it reads +.041v from whatever its set to (may just be set high for when it loads up i havent checked load vs idle gpu voltage)
> 
> also after my thermal paste has cured and putting my side panel back on my temps seemed to have improved:
> 
> 
> 
> Might be able to push 4.7 now under 60. seems great for daily oc though


Good looking temps mate.

Just a question, that D14 of yours, what fans are they on?

Not much heat can be generated from 4.6 to 4.7 anyway. Or maybe just my chip where more heat can be gained by pushing it from 4.75 to 4.8 than 4.5 going to 4.7. That might just be my WALL.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7331745
> 
> i dont think i can do better with this current rig. able to get 4th place out of all with a fx-8350 and a single 7870. I also realized that the gpu vddc in hwinfo64 is not the voltage for the gpu. Even though it reads 1.219 under load and drops during idle its apparently false. When in msi afterburner it reads +.041v from whatever its set to (may just be set high for when it loads up i havent checked load vs idle gpu voltage)
> 
> also after my thermal paste has cured and putting my side panel back on my temps seemed to have improved:
> 
> 
> 
> Might be able to push 4.7 now under 60. seems great for daily oc though


did you hack msi ab yet to show actual volts?


----------



## dmfree88

yeah i finally figured it out.. i was at 1.3v for the 3dm11 test.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> yeah i finally figured it out.. i was at 1.3v for the 3dm11 test.


MSI AB hack? and how is it possible that you have more voltage?

Does AMD cards use an higher voltage? I mean i can't get more than 1.175 volts no matter what.


----------



## dmfree88

mines 1.219 stock. It wasnt a hack to unlock the voltage. I had to go into options and enable it but the problem i was having is hwinfo64 shows voltage stays at 1.219.. Truth is in MSI AB the voltage was more then what I had set it at (if I set to 1.25 it was 1.29). Turns out It was changing the whole time!









But I can push up to 1.35 (in settings probably 1.39 in reality) Max. Sounds like my gpu has a higher voltage limit. I know that AMD cards generally can be overclocked further but I also have a MSI Hawk which gives more overclocking options then most. Also has a GPU reactor which I think has really cut down on GPU noise. Every card I have put in here tend to have coil whine and was irritating. this one does not







.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> mines 1.219 stock. It wasnt a hack to unlock the voltage. I had to go into options and enable it but the problem i was having is hwinfo64 shows voltage stays at 1.219.. Truth is in MSI AB the voltage was more then what I had set it at (if I set to 1.25 it was 1.29). Turns out It was changing the whole time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I can push up to 1.35 (in settings probably 1.39 in reality) Max. Sounds like my gpu has a higher voltage limit. I know that AMD cards generally can be overclocked further but I also have a MSI Hawk which gives more overclocking options then most. Also has a GPU reactor which I think has really cut down on GPU noise. Every card I have put in here tend to have coil whine and was irritating. this one does not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ah okay, so the AMD cards allows more volts.

Well i have the power edition and i should have triple overvolting feature but that is all marketing because when i upper the voltage in MSI AB i see a drop in Kombustor when i am stressing the card.

It also shows the same thing in every other program.

It seems that i can get higher voltage by updating or tuning the bios of my card but i am not so sure that its all save so its okay for me.

also i saw a guy hits over 12K on graphic score with the same exact GPU


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> MSI AB hack? and how is it possible that you have more voltage?
> 
> Does AMD cards use an higher voltage? I mean i can't get more than 1.175 volts no matter what.


no, but AB does not show actual voltage without hacking it and there is vdrop.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, but AB does not show actual voltage without hacking it and there is vdrop.


I just enabled voltage:


Then after awhile after messing with the voltages and not seeing any results in hwinfo64, I posted on another thread and someone said you can only see the voltage in AB. So i went into monitoring and found and check marked all these (-gpu usage that was already there):


Then everything appeared in the monitoring, no hacking just changed a couple settings. Might be because mine is a hawk? I dunno.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I just enabled voltage:
> 
> 
> Then after awhile after messing with the voltages and not seeing any results in hwinfo64, I posted on another thread and someone said you can only see the voltage in AB. So i went into monitoring and found and check marked all these (-gpu usage that was already there):
> 
> 
> Then everything appeared in the monitoring, no hacking just changed a couple settings. Might be because mine is a hawk? I dunno.


still amd ill post a link in a min
also my hwinfo shows all voltage correctly.

under VRM voltage at least that is what i use, or GPUz

you will have 2 one is ram 1 is core, should be easy to figure out since 1 will be ~ 1.6 and other 1.1~1.3


----------



## dmfree88

hwinfo lies to me, i have no clue what gpu vddc is its always the same (but clocks down with the gpu) I coulda swore it was the gpu vcore but its not:


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> hwinfo lies to me, i have no clue what gpu vddc is its always the same (but clocks down with the gpu) I coulda swore it was the gpu vcore but its not:


Are you forcing a constant voltage?


----------



## dmfree88

no, should i be? I saw that setting wasnt sure if i should use it or not. Figured it was throttling if idle and it didnt really matter, but it doesn't seem to throttle down during idle though.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> no, should i be? I saw that setting wasnt sure if i should use it or not. Figured it was throttling if idle and it didnt really matter, but it doesn't seem to throttle down during idle though.


No, you don't need it on, but you can switch it on for a quick check to see your vddc and then uncheck it and restart your PC, with it on though hwinfo should report the proper volts.


----------



## dmfree88

so for some reason i got on yesterday and started gaming and realized my gpu was at like 400 clock 500 mem(While gaming, funny enough it was still max settings 60fps constant). Could have been lower not sure but i went into MSI AB and both the gpu clock and the memory clock were all the way down to the lowest possible setting. I dont know why this randomly happened but then I put them back to my daily clock and went on like normal.

Now I have noticed my gpu clock will decrease during idle to 400mhz but now my memory clock does not downclock, always whatever i set it at. I am 99% sure it was downclocking before. Also now the GPU VDDC never decreases in hwinfo64. Always 1.219 no longer downclocks with the gpu clock. I think something broke?

I never tried locking the voltage like you suggested. I was going to but then i realized my mem clock was 1350 during idle xD. Now I dont know what to think


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering if anyone else has a UD3 rev 4.0 using an 8350?

I am struggling to even get 4.6Ghz stable. With the multi increased to x23 VCore and 1.325v vCore and LLC at extreme. It will increase the vCore to 1.44v and IBT will crash after task 6.

I would be thinking 1.44v should be enough for 4.6Ghz. If I try to reduce the LLC it will BSOD. 0x03B or 0x101D. Which if not mistaken both refer to more vCore.

Any help is appreciated.


----------



## Mega Man

average 4.7ghz oc takes ~1.475v, again average yrmv

so more volts my friend


----------



## ginger_nuts

More you say.

Fine, lets just see what fry's first then.









Chip, Board or will I hit my Mhz limit first


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> More you say.
> 
> Fine, lets just see what fry's first then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chip, Board or will I hit my Mhz limit first


My FX-8350 needs 1.464v to be stable at 4.6GHz and it only gets worse after that.


----------



## dmfree88

Check my guide in sig. Just hitting one of many voltage walls


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Check my guide in sig. Just hitting one of many voltage walls


Those pesky walls, I don't know who builds them but damn sometimes high is TOO high.


----------



## dmfree88

I thought 1.46 was stable at 4.6 but my chip decided it wanted 1.48 to make p95 stable. Didnt do the best on the lotto it needs 1.55 at 4.8 then it needs some serious volts


----------



## OverThinkingit

I have a sort of annoying aesthetic problem with the bios and im wondering if it can be fixed. The image seems to be overscanned (not sure what the correct terminology is), as in the first few letters of each word are being cut off and vice versa on the other side of the screen. Same with top and bottom.

I have the F2 Bios and my graphic drivers are up to date. Clearly not life threatening, but its still annoying. Any suggestions?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> I have a sort of annoying aesthetic problem with the bios and im wondering if it can be fixed. The image seems to be overscanned (not sure what the correct terminology is), as in the first few letters of each word are being cut off and vice versa on the other side of the screen. Same with top and bottom.
> 
> I have the F2 Bios and my graphic drivers are up to date. Clearly not life threatening, but its still annoying. Any suggestions?


when your in the bios, hit the "auto" button on your monitor... it will save its settings for that res.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> I have a sort of annoying aesthetic problem with the bios and im wondering if it can be fixed. The image seems to be overscanned (not sure what the correct terminology is), as in the first few letters of each word are being cut off and vice versa on the other side of the screen. Same with top and bottom.
> 
> I have the F2 Bios and my graphic drivers are up to date. Clearly not life threatening, but its still annoying. Any suggestions?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> when your in the bios, hit the "auto" button on your monitor... it will save its settings for that res.


this or you may have to adj your monitor manually


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> I have a sort of annoying aesthetic problem with the bios and im wondering if it can be fixed. The image seems to be overscanned (not sure what the correct terminology is), as in the first few letters of each word are being cut off and vice versa on the other side of the screen. Same with top and bottom.
> 
> I have the F2 Bios and my graphic drivers are up to date. Clearly not life threatening, but its still annoying. Any suggestions?


I had a similar opposite issue where i had a border around mine. Had to go into gpu scaling and adjust there to make The right size. Might be worth trying


----------



## OverThinkingit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> when your in the bios, hit the "auto" button on your monitor... it will save its settings for that res.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this or you may have to adj your monitor manually


Unfortunately I use a regular hdtv instead of a standard PC monitor so I dont have those choices. At least this tv doesnt offer them from what I can tell.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I had a similar opposite issue where i had a border around mine. Had to go into gpu scaling and adjust there to make The right size. Might be worth trying


Were you able to just adjust the bios scaling or did you have to scale the desktop along with it?

*Edit:* Messed around with the tv settings and scaling and got it to work, thanks guys.


----------



## Descent95

Hey guys,

I'm having trouble getting my board to 4GHz stable with a Phenom II 965. I have a GA-990FXA UD3 Revision 3. I've gotten this chip stable on my old board (Biostar TA970XE), and it passed Prime95 for 16 hours straight.

This board cannot be reliable at these speeds regardless of settings. I had the same issues with a GA-970A-UD3 Rev 3, these problems are even more pronounced now.

The clock speed jumps around like crazy and I can't find a way to remedy it. Raising the NB Core seems to help, as well as the Northbridge voltage. But it doesn't eliminate the problems entirely. My VRM's do not appear to be throttling. Changing other clock related settings doesn't seem to help, unless I underclock the NB HT and CPU HT. C1E and PowerNow are disabled.

Sometimes it takes 10 minutes, sometimes it takes 3 hours, but regardless Core 4 fails Prime. This was also the weak link on my Biostar.

Any ideas on what settings I can change? I've been messing with this thing like crazy. If I can get the clocks peed to stay constant around 4010, I'll be set. Sometimes it will jump as high as 4081!

I've uploaded a video demonstrating the problem (The huge clock rate jump is at the end), pictures of my settings, and a CPU-Z text file.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdUn9oRkwKc&feature=youtu.be

Unstable Clock.txt 96k .txt file


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descent95*
> 
> -snip-


Try putting a fan over the VRMs, might solve your problems, it certainly did for us with FX-83XX with the same board and revision. Still not sure if the BIOS has a ******ed temp limit for the VRMs or if the VRMs themselves are really that crap.


----------



## Descent95

Did you guys have the exact same problems I'm having? Because this problem starts occuring immediately after booting.

I have a Zalman Z11 Plus case with a 73cfm fan in the rear, two 43's in the top, a 73 in the front, and a 48cfm fan on the bottom, and my case is configured for negative pressure. My CPU cooler is a Zerotherm NV-120 which runs at full blast and moves so much air you can feel the excess coming out the rear when it's turned up. Do you really think a fan over the VRM's would help?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descent95*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm having trouble getting my board to 4GHz stable with a Phenom II 965. I have a GA-990FXA UD3 Revision 3. I've gotten this chip stable on my old board (Biostar TA970XE), and it passed Prime95 for 16 hours straight.
> 
> This board cannot be reliable at these speeds regardless of settings. I had the same issues with a GA-970A-UD3 Rev 3, these problems are even more pronounced now.
> 
> The clock speed jumps around like crazy and I can't find a way to remedy it. Raising the NB Core seems to help, as well as the Northbridge voltage. But it doesn't eliminate the problems entirely. My VRM's do not appear to be throttling. Changing other clock related settings doesn't seem to help, unless I underclock the NB HT and CPU HT. C1E and PowerNow are disabled.
> 
> Sometimes it takes 10 minutes, sometimes it takes 3 hours, but regardless Core 4 fails Prime. This was also the weak link on my Biostar.
> 
> Any ideas on what settings I can change? I've been messing with this thing like crazy. If I can get the clocks peed to stay constant around 4010, I'll be set. Sometimes it will jump as high as 4081!
> 
> I've uploaded a video demonstrating the problem (The huge clock rate jump is at the end), pictures of my settings, and a CPU-Z text file.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdUn9oRkwKc&feature=youtu.be
> 
> Unstable Clock.txt 96k .txt file


From the pictures I can only think of these things:

1. You used a combo OC or FSB OC, make sure you have a calculator with you when doing this.

Your CPU-NB is at 2200 or X11 in UD3 rev 3 speak while your FSB is at 243. You cant pull off a CPU-NB more than 2600 stable. Not even with an FX chip (Although some can, but that depends on their chips).

2. Clocks jumping around like crazy as you described it, it can only because the FSB jumps off from it's value. Even at stock FSB of 200, it will go up to 201.XX which, if you multiply with your CPU multiplier, will yield jumps depending on how much the multiplier is set to. In your case, 243, give or take ~1.5 MHz, will yield you + ~20MHz..

3. Another one, your HT Link must not be lower than your CPU-NB. This is the case for FX Chips, but I guess same is to your Phenom. So match those numbers.

My advice is that you lower that FSB, or even try doing just a stock of 200. CPU multi at 20, CPU-NB at 2200, HT Link at stock. Add some offsets of your CPU Core Voltage, Give your CPU PLL something like 2.695. NB/PCIE PLL of 1.895. Try.

In short Try running a Multi OC first. mind about the FSB later once you see your chip capable of your target OC by using just the Multipliers.


----------



## Descent95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> From the pictures I can only think of these things:
> 
> 1. You used a combo OC or FSB OC, make sure you have a calculator with you when doing this.
> 
> Your CPU-NB is at 2200 or X11 in UD3 rev 3 speak while your FSB is at 243. You cant pull off a CPU-NB more than 2600 stable. Not even with an FX chip (Although some can, but that depends on their chips).


This isn't my first time overclocking. I know this. Regardless, the clock speed tumbles around unless you're underclocking the CPU-NB. The board is finicky trash.
Quote:


> 2. Clocks jumping around like crazy as you described it, it can only because the FSB jumps off from it's value. Even at stock FSB of 200, it will go up to 201.XX which, if you multiply with your CPU multiplier, will yield jumps depending on how much the multiplier is set to. In your case, 243, give or take ~1.5 MHz, will yield you + ~20MHz..


I'm getting far more than 20, it's going up to 70MHz above what I'm specifying.
Quote:


> 3. Another one, your HT Link must not be lower than your CPU-NB. This is the case for FX Chips, but I guess same is to your Phenom. So match those numbers.
> 
> My advice is that you lower that FSB, or even try doing just a stock of 200. CPU multi at 20, CPU-NB at 2200, HT Link at stock. Add some offsets of your CPU Core Voltage, Give your CPU PLL something like 2.695. NB/PCIE PLL of 1.895. Try.
> 
> In short Try running a Multi OC first. mind about the FSB later once you see your chip capable of your target OC by using just the Multipliers.


I've already tried all of this with no success. I've been doing this a long time, I've overclocked 486 systems and S3 ViRGE video cards. No matter what I do, this board is not Prime95 stable. The CPU is hitting 57 celsius under load, usually 55. It's not overheating, this board just sucks. I returned the GA-970A-UD3 for the same reasons. These Rev 3.0 boards are junk.

I'm this close to returning this board and picking up a 4670k.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descent95*
> 
> This isn't my first time overclocking. I know this. Regardless, the clock speed tumbles around unless you're underclocking the CPU-NB. The board is finicky trash.
> I'm getting far more than 20, it's going up to 70MHz above what I'm specifying.
> I've already tried all of this with no success. I've been doing this a long time, I've overclocked 486 systems and S3 ViRGE video cards. No matter what I do, this board is not Prime95 stable. The CPU is hitting 57 celsius under load, usually 55. It's not overheating, this board just sucks. I returned the GA-970A-UD3 for the same reasons. These Rev 3.0 boards are junk.
> 
> I'm this close to returning this board and picking up a 4670k.


LOL!! If you know what you are doing and bashing the board for the faults, return it. Get Haswell and be happy. LOL









I'm sorry, I was wrong with the CPU-NB for your 955. It can go up to 2800.

But if you are losing a core on prime, it does mean you need to bump up your Core voltage is it?

Try using the same voltage setting you use but this time, switch that LLC to Ultra. Try.

And one more thing, describe that Clock jumping. If it's off or MINUS what you expect, Then it is throttling. That either need some voltage bumps or experiencing Thermal throttle. Or if jumping on or ADD then you should be happy. It's doing some OC'ing tricks on its own.


----------



## Descent95

I'm ditching this thing for a Haswell. Forget it, I'm done tweaking this thing.

1.62v still causes Core 4 to fail Prime. It was stable at 1.55 in the old Biostar. Tried playing with LLC. No dice. It's jumping the CPU up to 4081 at random, for a split second, causing crashes.

Horrible board. Into the trash it goes!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descent95*
> 
> I'm ditching this thing for a Haswell. Forget it, I'm done tweaking this thing.
> 
> 1.62v still causes Core 4 to fail Prime. It was stable at 1.55 in the old Biostar. Tried playing with LLC. No dice. It's jumping the CPU up to 4081 at random, for a split second, causing crashes.


LOL. I wont pity the board if it goes into trash. I too aint that happy wit it. But I got if working fine up to now. Even downclocked from 4.8- 4.75 - 4.66- and now to 4.5.

4.5 being the most stable, and least voltage. at +0.000 Core Voltage at Ultra LLC, the thing just works like a rock. Temps, not a problem, crashes never happening, and at 2333 10-12-10-CR1 on the RAM, BLAZING!!

1GHz from stock with Core Voltage at 1.385 Volts aint that bad eh???









Quote:


> Horrible board. Into the trash it goes!


But you said that even with your old BIOSTAR, it was the weakest link, then why bash the board?

Could it be your CHIP


----------



## Descent95

The Biostar was stable because it didn't fluctuate like Courtney Love off her meds. I already gave it to a friend. I'm just going to sell the processor, return the board, and bite the Haswell bullet.


----------



## dmfree88

why not get a better board? Buy a sabertooth or a crosshair.


----------



## Mega Man

have to ask now that my internet is not all screwy did you ever bump cpu pll ?


----------



## Descent95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> why not get a better board? Buy a sabertooth or a crosshair.


I have $112 store credit with Staples due to an old service plan I found for an office chair. They don't really have any other AMD boards I want. Besides, I can upgrade to an i5 for $70 after I sell this thing. I just sold an old Core 2 Quad I had lying around.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have to ask now that my internet is not all screwy did you ever bump cpu pll ?


Yep! Did it on both the GA-970A-UD3 and the 990FXA. Same problem each time! These boards suck, and don't like something in my system! I'm going to burn my store credit on a board that won't warp or get AIDS down the line.


----------



## Mega Man

ok what other settings have you changed, how much did you up pll?

hate to say it but just because you have been doing alot of ocing, gigas 990 rev3s are a different beast, and i would strongly argue with you as i will say they are very very capable board, just a pain in the bum, the problem is it is gigas first boards on amd to have uefi bios, and well they need to work out some stuff, would be nice if htey updated and released new bios, but alas they dont, the intel board with the first uefi bios.... had the same problems....
that said i know several ud3s with 5.2ghz OCs .... so yea not the board,

would be willing to help if you want take some screens of your bios specifically
1 CPU/freq
2 CPU advanced features
3 volts.

just to make sure you shut off all power saving features and enabled HPC right ?


----------



## Mad Pistol

Based on another member's suggestion in this thread, I decided to strap the 80mm fan from my stock AMD cooler to the VRM cooling on my 990FXA-UD3. Lo and behold, it fixed the downclocking issues with my CPU. I have been running OCT for 30 minutes and I am loaded down @ 52C, 4.4Ghz @ 1.35 Vcore. Not a SINGLE time has it dropped down to 3Ghz or 1.4Ghz.

BRILLIANT!!!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descent95*
> 
> Did you guys have the exact same problems I'm having? Because this problem starts occuring immediately after booting.
> 
> I have a Zalman Z11 Plus case with a 73cfm fan in the rear, two 43's in the top, a 73 in the front, and a 48cfm fan on the bottom, and my case is configured for negative pressure. My CPU cooler is a Zerotherm NV-120 which runs at full blast and moves so much air you can feel the excess coming out the rear when it's turned up. Do you really think a fan over the VRM's would help?


This has nothing to do with the board IMO.

The board can pull off huge OC numbers albeit some issues. But anyway he decided on going the Haswell anyway.

Quoted here are his cooling set-up. Which I believe is the culprit to his OC'ing adventures. He did mentioned too, He has the same issue on his Biostar MOBO. And his 970-UD3.

So he totally has some idea on his OC'ing yet he was just in very denial to the fact that his cooler can't keep up with is temps. If UD3 rev3 can gain a stable OC of at least 1GHz with an 8-core CPU, how much would suffer to power up a QUAD then? NO HASSLE IMO.

Failing out a core after 10 minutes would just mean he needed a slight bump on the Core Voltage anyway. But he refused. 6 posts from the time he asked for help. After the half of his posts, he's already dead set on bashing the board and going the Blue way. Sounds very much like a




























to be honest.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

The UD3 Rev 3 is a sweet piece of equipment isn't it?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> Based on another member's suggestion in this thread, I decided to strap the 80mm fan from my stock AMD cooler to the VRM cooling on my 990FXA-UD3. Lo and behold, it fixed the downclocking issues with my CPU. I have been running OCT for 30 minutes and I am loaded down @ 52C, 4.4Ghz @ 1.35 Vcore. Not a SINGLE time has it dropped down to 3Ghz or 1.4Ghz.
> 
> BRILLIANT!!!


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> The UD3 Rev 3 is a sweet piece of equipment isn't it?


Many people who use 125W cpu's complain that this board cant handle it. And and the vrm's overheat. Very upsetting for a so-called nice board that supports 8 core cpus.. "not so sweet"


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> The UD3 Rev 3 is a sweet piece of equipment isn't it?


I'm very much in love TBH...









But yeah, there are issues. Lots of. But you can address most of them instead going forever dreary after one bad decision.

We are just pieces in history that could tell people or at least give people hints to stay away the path we once took.


----------



## Mad Pistol

Now I just need a better case and CPU cooler than what I've got and I'll be golden. I love my TRUE 120, but I think it's getting close to time for an update.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Many people who use 125W cpu's complain that this board cant handle it. And and the vrm's overheat. Very upsetting for a so-called nice board that supports 8 core cpus.. "not so sweet"


Strap the stock 80mm fan that came with the CPU cooler to the VRM sink, and the problem is solved. Seriously, I can't believe it was that easy.

EDIT: Now running 4.5Ghz, no drops in frequency!!! My faith in this board is now restored.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> Now I just need a better case and CPU cooler than what I've got and I'll be golden. I love my TRUE 120, but I think it's getting close to time for an update.
> Strap the stock 80mm fan that came with the CPU cooler to the VRM sink, and the problem is solved. Seriously, I can't believe it was that easy.
> 
> EDIT: Now running 4.5Ghz, no drops in frequency!!! My faith in this board is now restored.


Why have to "mod" what is advertised to work?


----------



## Mad Pistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Why have to "mod" what is advertised to work?


The way I look at it, I spent $260 to get an 8 core AMD CPU and 990FX motherboard. My friend got an 8350 and Sabertooth for $350... I'm ok with a small mod to make the board work well.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> Now I just need a better case and CPU cooler than what I've got and I'll be golden. I love my TRUE 120, but I think it's getting close to time for an update.
> Strap the stock 80mm fan that came with the CPU cooler to the VRM sink, and the problem is solved. Seriously, I can't believe it was that easy.
> 
> EDIT: Now running 4.5Ghz, no drops in frequency!!!


It wasn't that easy. Not unless you have the space for it. And yes you lowered the temps by a fair amount but that will still hunt you if you decide to go for higher clocks. So better steer clear of your Frequency goal. 4.8 might be too much for most of these boards.


----------



## Mad Pistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It wasn't that easy. Not unless you have the space for it. And yes you lowered the temps by a fair amount but that will still hunt you if you decide to go for higher clocks. So better steer clear of your Frequency goal. 4.8 might be too much for most of these boards.


I never said I wanted to hit 4.8Ghz... It would be nice, sure, but I'm already hitting a voltage ceiling with my current HSF. If I go any higher, I'll go over 62C.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Many people who use 125W cpu's complain that this board cant handle it. And and the vrm's overheat. Very upsetting for a so-called nice board that supports 8 core cpus.. "not so sweet"


I know it can't handle the 8 core CPU's without "enhancing" the cooling. I put a lot of time into fixing that issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm very much in love TBH...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, there are issues. Lots of. But you can address most of them instead going forever dreary after one bad decision.
> 
> We are just pieces in history that could tell people or at least give people hints to stay away the path we once took.


Oh man believe me, I do my best to steer everyone clear of it. I don't want anyone to go through the mess I did!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> Now I just need a better case and CPU cooler than what I've got and I'll be golden. I love my TRUE 120, but I think it's getting close to time for an update.
> Strap the stock 80mm fan that came with the CPU cooler to the VRM sink, and the problem is solved. Seriously, I can't believe it was that easy.
> 
> EDIT: Now running 4.5Ghz, no drops in frequency!!! My faith in this board is now restored.


You're welcome lol









I'm glad my findings were able to help people out. I was determined to make this board work or fry it trying.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Why have to "mod" what is advertised to work?


Because, YOU CAN'T HAVE THEM ALL baby!!

Why people MOD what is advertised to work might not be as appealing to your point of view, but the truth remains that all of us have different goals, different perception, different needs.

Even people who bought those CHV-FZ makes modifications depending on their own reasons.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I know it can't handle the 8 core CPU's without "enhancing" the cooling. I put a lot of time into fixing that issue.
> Oh man believe me, I do my best to steer everyone clear of it. I don't want anyone to go through the mess I did!
> You're welcome lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm glad my findings were able to help people out. I was determined to make this board work or fry it trying.


Count me in with the pursuit to at least get this board capable of worthy OCs. Gonna mod another heatsink for the VRM and that NB.

Good to know your board is still alive.







Durability indeed


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Honestly I'm surprised it's still alive. Still isn't throttling either so that is a plus. One of these days I'll get around to getting a Sabertooth or Crosshair V


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> The way I look at it, I spent $260 to get an 8 core AMD CPU and 990FX motherboard. My friend got an 8350 and Sabertooth for $350... I'm ok with a small mod to make the board work well.


Quite understandable as I have performed many values in my time, and I am happy for you. I just see too many AM3+ boards which can not keep up with demand of the VRM's. I love AMD, but things are coming to a head with power/temps. IE (whenever choosing a board, finding out what the shortcomings are, despite what other issues a board may have. It almost always leads bad to VRM cooling). This tells us something when you think about it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> Based on another member's suggestion in this thread, I decided to strap the 80mm fan from my stock AMD cooler to the VRM cooling on my 990FXA-UD3. Lo and behold, it fixed the downclocking issues with my CPU. I have been running OCT for 30 minutes and I am loaded down @ 52C, 4.4Ghz @ 1.35 Vcore. Not a SINGLE time has it dropped down to 3Ghz or 1.4Ghz.
> 
> BRILLIANT!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Many people who use 125W cpu's complain that this board cant handle it. And and the vrm's overheat. Very upsetting for a so-called nice board that supports 8 core cpus.. "not so sweet"


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Quite understandable as I have performed many values in my time, and I am happy for you. I just see too many AM3+ boards which can not keep up with demand of the VRM's. I love AMD, but things are coming to a head with power/temps. IE (whenever choosing a board, finding out what the shortcomings are, despite what other issues a board may have. It almost always leads bad to VRM cooling). This tells us something when you think about it.


i hate to tell everyone. but yea this board does just what it is advertised to. if you put it in and run at stock..... it runs flawlessly

but we dont like stock, i have all 3~ sabertooth CVFz and ud7, in my possession as i type, all of them need active cooling on the VRMs, esp with watercooling ( less airflow dirrectly on VRMs ), when overclocking... you are pushing the board much harder then it is designed for.

i can trip OCP on 8350 +2x 7970s with a x750.... pulling over 300w that means..... so yea.... vrms will need help


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Because, YOU CAN'T HAVE THEM ALL baby!!
> 
> Why people MOD what is advertised to work might not be as appealing to your point of view, but the truth remains that all of us have different goals, different perception, different needs.
> 
> Even people who bought those CHV-FZ makes modifications depending on their own reasons.


I have had much fun with mods in the past for various hardware. I modded my old DFI Ultrad-D to SLI by using a conductor pen. I also modded my X800-PRO PCIe VGA to 16 pipelines using a "third party bios". Don't get me wrong, modding is cool, and has it place for our enthusiastic arousal. But it should never be necessary for us just to get so called "compatible" hardware to work....


----------



## Mad Pistol

@ 4.7Ghz now. Going for 24/7 stable at 1.425 Vcore. I will fold on it for about 12 hours and see what happens. (both GPU and CPU will be loaded down.)

Praying this works. I'm pretty sure that 4.8Ghz is out of bounds unless I get a better HSF.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> @ 4.7Ghz now. Going for 24/7 stable at 1.425 Vcore. I will fold on it for about 12 hours and see what happens. (both GPU and CPU will be loaded down.)
> 
> Praying this works. I'm pretty sure that 4.8Ghz is out of bounds unless I get a better HSF.


Good luck dood!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i hate to tell everyone. but yea this board does just what it is advertised to. if you put it in and run at stock..... it runs flawlessly
> 
> but we dont like stock, i have all 3~ sabertooth CVFz and ud7, in my possession as i type, all of them need active cooling on the VRMs, esp with watercooling ( less airflow dirrectly on VRMs ), when overclocking... you are pushing the board much harder then it is designed for.
> 
> i can trip OCP on 8350 +2x 7970s with a x750.... pulling over 300w that means..... so yea.... vrms will need help


Your UD3 is special then because mine sure didn't handle my 8350 at stock clocks. Then again it's hard to dissipate heat when the board warped so badly around the VRM area from the heat that the VRM's no longer even touched the heatsink...


----------



## pshootr

Im lucky I guess, I have the fatality990FX and I dont worry too much


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> I have had much fun with mods in the past for various hardware. I modded my old DFI Ultrad-D to SLI by using a conductor pen. I also modded my X800-PRO PCIe VGA to 16 pipelines using a "third party bios". Don't get me wrong, modding is cool, and has it place for our enthusiastic arousal. But it should never be necessary for us just to get so called "compatible" hardware to work....


Well the board is compatible as advertised. And as mentioned above, will work flawlessly on stock conditions. Which is true.

You can run an 8-core chip with a 990 FXA-UD3 rev 3 on a 24/7 365 days a year without issues at stock. Even with the stock cooler in it. The VRMs wont even heat up significantly at stock.
But who likes stock anyway? cough!

It just didn't lived up to the hype for the FX chips. As every single FX owner opted to overclock, there, the mobo failed to impress and perform to expectations. But they can at mild OCs.

Like every other enthusiast, owning an FX chip will already push you to OC. As that's exactly why they are made to. The board though is not. That's a fact. But who wouldn't try anyway? Right? Just a bad decision made by us people who opted for the board hoping to get around the FX stigma with admirable results. But let's just charge that to experience.

That being said, and as mentioned above, even the CHV-FZ which for some is the highest on the chain for FX chips, still need some active cooling to aid with the OC. For OC'ing meant operating your system beyond the specified. You just have to compensate for whatever drawback your decision leads you.









And modding those boards just mean two things anyway, 1. You care for the system (board) 2. You want to achieve better results. And most who modded theirs, possess the latter.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> @ 4.7Ghz now. Going for 24/7 stable at 1.425 Vcore. I will fold on it for about 12 hours and see what happens. (both GPU and CPU will be loaded down.)
> 
> Praying this works. I'm pretty sure that 4.8Ghz is out of bounds unless I get a better HSF.


I would of try 4.8 if I were you TBH. There are always these "GOLDEN" chips and set-up where good OCs happen.

Try it at the same voltage. Just to see if you can get around the bug and be stable.
Then try lowering your Voltage while keeping stability.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well the board is compatible as advertised. And as mentioned above, will work flawlessly on stock conditions. Which is true.
> 
> You can run an 8-core chip with a 990 FXA-UD3 rev 3 on a 24/7 365 days a year without issues at stock. Even with the stock cooler in it. The VRMs wont even heat up significantly at stock.
> But who likes stock anyway? cough!
> 
> It just didn't lived up to the hype for the FX chips. As every single FX owner opted to overclock, there, the mobo failed to impress and perform to expectations. But they can at mild OCs.
> 
> Like every other enthusiast, owning an FX chip will already push you to OC. As that's exactly why they are made to. The board though is not. That's a fact. But who wouldn't try anyway? Right? Just a bad decision made by us people who opted for the board hoping to get around the FX stigma with admirable results. But let's just charge that to experience.
> 
> That being said, and as mentioned above, even the CHV-FZ which for some is the highest on the chain for FX chips, still need some active cooling to aid with the OC. For OC'ing meant operating your system beyond the specified. You just have to compensate for whatever drawback your decision leads you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And modding those boards just mean two things anyway, 1. You care for the system (board) 2. You want to achieve better results. And most who modded theirs, possess the latter.


Well acknowledged, and nice touch.







Very well said. My concern is that the AM3+ platform is out of balance so to speak. And It seems if you do not purchase a "top of the line" board for AM3+ that you may have some challenges regarding the vrm/temp concerns when dealing with certain AM3+ chips. Call me stupid, but when you tell a client that their motherboard is compliant, you do not want to have to send them to a forum like this to resolve their situation, or spend hours doing it for them.. I agree we as enthusiasts expect a lot from a board, and the balance is not easy







But the simple fact is like we both said already. The boards are having a hard time keeping up with the chips it seems.

Edit: I am very happy with my system, but while shopping for friend to build a new system, I found it to a difficult task to find the right board without going out in to lala-land with the budget like I did mine at least for the board. And not having strong concerns about the VRM's. It seems sketchy in many cases to buy an AM3+ MB after looking at 100's of reviews to consider many boards. I'm scared.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Well acknowledged, and nice touch. biggrin.gif Very well said. My concern is that the AM3+ platform is out of balance so to speak. And It seems if you do not purchase a "top of the line" board for AM3+ that you may have some challenges regarding the vrm/temp concerns when dealing with certain AM3+ chips. Call me stupid, but when you tell a client that their motherboard is compliant, you do not want to have to send them to a forum like this to resolve their situation, or spend hours doing it for them.. I agree we as enthusiasts expect a lot from a board, and the balance is not easy biggrin.gif But the simple fact is like we both said already. The boards are having a hard time keeping up with the chips it seems.
> 
> Edit: I am very happy with my system, but while shopping for friend to build a new system, I found it to a difficult task to find the right board without going out in to lala-land with the budget like I did mine at least for the board. And not having strong concerns about the VRM's. It seems sketchy in many cases after looking at 100's of reviews to consider many boards. I'm scared.


It does not only apply to the FX line-up anyway. You can also try to look at other line-ups.

Intel for example ships their processors with CRAP heat sinks. I mean, open an i3, an i5, and an i7. Look at the heat sink that comes with each of them. They are of the same class. Same sizes. And lastly, same pieces of aluminum junk.

The heat sink will of course work well with an i-3. No doubt as you can't even get around overclocking them to a degree. But to give it to a much powerful i-5 with twice the number of cores, and a much much powerful i7, is just plain STUPID!
But Intel does it. Even the overclock-able K versions were not exempted to that.

So I guess we consumers (enthusiasts and noobs alike) can't complain on the business decision those companies make. It will just boil down to the fact the we are already responsible to each of our decisions. Whether they provide us with top tier components and everything in between, we will still aspire for more from them. (Part of that fact was due to us spending a lot to get the best that we can and expects to get the best out of them)

Anyway, like I said, we just can't have 'em all. Either we are being offered with cut-down components, or those FXs were just power monsters on a few can cope feeding them, I, like the rest of us just want to squeeze everything I can out of my purchased components even if that meant modding them to the maximum extent.

Both points considered, maybe it all just depends on the end-users preferences and usage.

Anyway, congrats to your board mate. That board is no longer available though. Have you tried that board with an FX? I just want feedbacks on them with an 8-core chip.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It does not only apply to the FX line-up anyway. You can also try to look at other line-ups.
> 
> Intel for example ships their processors with CRAP heat sinks. I mean, open an i3, an i5, and an i7. Look at the heat sink that comes with each of them. They are of the same class. Same sizes. And lastly, same pieces of aluminum junk.
> 
> The heat sink will of course work well with an i-3. No doubt as you can't even get around overclocking them to a degree. But to give it to a much powerful i-5 with twice the number of cores, and a much much powerful i7, is just plain STUPID!
> But Intel does it. Even the overclock-able K versions were not exempted to that.
> 
> So I guess we consumers (enthusiasts and noobs alike) can't complain on the business decision those companies make. It will just boil down to the fact the we are already responsible to each of our decisions. Whether they provide us with top tier components and everything in between, we will still aspire for more from them. (Part of that fact was due to us spending a lot to get the best that we can and expects to get the best out of them)
> 
> Anyway, like I said, we just can't have 'em all. Either we are being offered with cut-down components, or those FXs were just power monsters on a few can cope feeding them, I, like the rest of us just want to squeeze everything I can out of my purchased components even if that meant modding them to the maximum extent.
> 
> Both points considered, maybe it all just depends on the end-users preferences and usage.
> 
> Anyway, congrats to your board mate. That board is no longer available though. Have you tried that board with an FX? I just want feedbacks on them with an 8-core chip.


True that is. your exactly rite. And that is the exact reason I am frustrated atm. We the consumer are the ones who suffer while they get rich










Thank you for your responses. Thank you, and I have noticed that the fatality is no longer listed on new egg. I only wonder why, except perhaps the fact that ASRock is like "Converse" as ASUS is like "Adidas" I have not yet dropped an FX chip yet. But I sure am glad I got this board for the case when I do. Because my vrm is way higher suited than almost any other FX series board.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pshootr*
> 
> Well acknowledged, and nice touch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very well said. My concern is that the AM3+ platform is out of balance so to speak. And It seems if you do not purchase a "top of the line" board for AM3+ that you may have some challenges regarding the vrm/temp concerns when dealing with certain AM3+ chips. Call me stupid, but when you tell a client that their motherboard is compliant, you do not want to have to send them to a forum like this to resolve their situation, or spend hours doing it for them.. I agree we as enthusiasts expect a lot from a board, and the balance is not easy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the simple fact is like we both said already. The boards are having a hard time keeping up with the chips it seems.
> 
> Edit: I am very happy with my system, but while shopping for friend to build a new system, I found it to a difficult task to find the right board without going out in to lala-land with the budget like I did mine at least for the board. And not having strong concerns about the VRM's. It seems sketchy in many cases to buy an AM3+ MB after looking at 100's of reviews to consider many boards. I'm scared.


If it makes u feel any better they all do it. I had a 970a-g46 from msi and it looked awesome said unlock your fx processors potential, great price tag, "military grade" parts i thought i was getting a smokin deal. Big flimsy ugly never again MISTAKE.

Amd's big processors overpower boards. If it works stock they mark it compatible. Even if its listed as an ocing board and can't do it.... pisses me off too. But they all do it


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> If it makes u feel any better they all do it. I had a 970a-g46 from msi and it looked awesome said unlock your fx processors potential, great price tag, "military grade" parts i thought i was getting a smokin deal. Big flimsy ugly never again MISTAKE.
> 
> Amd's big processors overpower boards. If it works stock they mark it compatible. Even if its listed as an ocing board and can't do it.... pisses me off too. But they all do it


Wondered what happened to that G46.


----------



## dmfree88

I tested the rma they sent back determined it still sucked and sold it


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> If it makes u feel any better they all do it. I had a 970a-g46 from msi and it looked awesome said unlock your fx processors potential, great price tag, "military grade" parts i thought i was getting a smokin deal. Big flimsy ugly never again MISTAKE.
> 
> Amd's big processors overpower boards. If it works stock they mark it compatible. Even if its listed as an ocing board and can't do it.... pisses me off too. But they all do it


It pisses me off too. The thing is, this issue is "not" only limited to certain boards, but many of them. That displays this is an architecture deficiency. My question is, does the Intel platform suffer the same challenge?


----------



## Mega Man

really considering most of "these boards" you seem to mention i have seen ppl get 24/7 clock of 5.0-5.2 ghz on... makes me think maybe that... well ppl like to blame the board rather then chance.... too many variables to just claim it is the board. esp when seeing the above results.


----------



## pshootr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really considering most of "these boards" you seem to mention i have seen ppl get 24/7 clock of 5.0-5.2 ghz on... makes me think maybe that... well ppl like to blame the board rather then chance.... too many variables to just claim it is the board. esp when seeing the above results.


Im not even going in to overclocking to be honest. I'm simply talking about average reveiws having to do with DOA, or some port not working, or a "USB-3.0"issue, or overheating VRM's, a flimsy heatink hear or there. You get the ideah.. Which may be a large part of my fear when it comes to reviews from complete noobs" But I know how to read between the lines so to speak. And it is still scary.


----------



## pshootr

I hope Pistol is stable









Fold it up baby..


----------



## pshootr

After planning this build for a friend. I'm so bonkers in the brain, Im now questioning whether my board is good enough... lol...... I know.... Its Sick.


----------



## hurricane28

Well i have experience with UD3 as the UD5 and honestly they work flawless









I must emit tho that the UD5 is a better overclocker than the UD3 due to better VRM, heat sinks and power phases but then again its an higher end board and it costs little bit more.

I understand your frustration tho and that is why i did more research on components to prevent disappointment by buying the wrong components or use them for things higher than they are rated for.

I agree that if you are unlucky it can be a pain because it does not perform like you want it to perform, but mostly that is because people do not do enough research about it and end up with the wrong parts for what they wanna do with their system.

Revering to your ''DOA'' thing, well you do understand that you deal with electronics and DOA (dead on arrival) occurs now and than sadly yes but Gigabyte DOA's are not more than any other manufacturers. But then again, DOA's are mostly due to shipping and not carefully handling components. Gigabyte is one of the best manufacturers of PC components and is well respected in the overclocking scene because of their high end components that they use in their products.

so to say that Gigabyte boards are less quality than other manufacturers is actually irrelevant and based on ''SOME'' reviews and opinions of people who don't know what they are talking about to be honest.

don't get me wrong tho, some revisions are better than others yes and its a pain to have one but its the same with Asus motherboards some revisions are simply better than others.
I went with Gigabyte because the simplicity of the bios and they look a lot better than the Asus boards in my opinion, and to some degree that is important for me because why suffer from an ugly board that performs extremely well when you can have the best of both worlds right?









I do not have experience with Asus boards to be honest but i heard some bad things about them too, and also with their GPU's.
I had an Asus GPU once and had some problems with it and i sold it and never buy Asus GPU again, but that does not say that Asus products are bad because it did not perform like i was expecting, no i sell the product and buy something better and never go back


----------



## dmfree88

as a complete newbie to computers i would hate to buy something compatible though and end up with this crap they serve us. Which is what happened to me unknowingly stepping into this new game of am3+ with a 8350. which boards even gonna work right stock? Why should i even have to ask that question







. I would think even someone with a decent amount of experience would still assume the crap board is going to work OK. In some cases it wont even work right from the start. Should never be marked as compatible.

I guess I just remember long ago when it didn't really matter which motherboard you got as far as functionality. If you wanted some cool perks go big get the extra features, but everything crappy atleast worked reasonably for the most part or atleast got the job done. Nowadays it seems the processors are overpowering there sockets or the counter-parts that claim to run them to potential (chip-sets)

I must say though I am glad I went with the UD5 though and somehow got the last rev 1.1 non uefi. As much nicer as uefi is I am glad to not have so many problems to deal with as many have.

Its kinda funny about asus though they seem to make the best mobos for AMD products but cant make a ATI card to save there lives









Vice-versa MSI cant make a AMD board to save there lives but make great ATI gpus







. Think they need to combine ideas and come up with some real products.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> as a complete newbie to computers i would hate to buy something compatible though and end up with this crap they serve us. Which is what happened to me unknowingly stepping into this new game of am3+ with a 8350. which boards even gonna work right stock? Why should i even have to ask that question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would think even someone with a decent amount of experience would still assume the crap board is going to work OK. In some cases it wont even work right from the start. Should never be marked as compatible.
> 
> I guess I just remember long ago when it didn't really matter which motherboard you got as far as functionality. If you wanted some cool perks go big get the extra features, but everything crappy atleast worked reasonably for the most part or atleast got the job done. Nowadays it seems the processors are overpowering there sockets or the counter-parts that claim to run them to potential (chip-sets)
> 
> I must say though I am glad I went with the UD5 though and somehow got the last rev 1.1 non uefi. As much nicer as uefi is I am glad to not have so many problems to deal with as many have.
> 
> Its kinda funny about asus though they seem to make the best mobos for AMD products but cant make a ATI card to save there lives
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vice-versa MSI cant make a AMD board to save there lives but make great ATI gpus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Think they need to combine ideas and come up with some real products.


Well as far as i could tell that the problems only occur when people start overclocking.

I never heard of an am3+ board that had problems running FX chips native and if so is it really due to company fault of the user itself that does not know how to use it? I really can't tell because i never had such problems with my UD3 or UD5.

The only thing i can say is that some boards are made for overclocking and some are not, that is why i sold my UD3 and go with UD5 because that is better geared for overclocking.
I did never had problems with my FX-6200 in the UD3 rev 1.1 tho the problems occurred when i inserted the 8350 so my conclusion was that the UD3 was not that compatible with that chip so i went with an better board which is also an rev 1.1 and have zero problems once you know how to use it.

Like i said before i have heard bad and good things about Asus and Gigabyte and both make great motherboards only i prefer my UD5 over an Sabertooth simply because it looks hideous and the performance is about the same as the UD5 witch costs less so i have the best at both worlds for less money









I like MSI products as well, again i don't have experience with their motherboards but i heard some good and bad things as well.
some have great results with the GD80 and some don't but to be honest i really like the aesthetics of that board because i like to have blue in my system








and probably if i could get an MSI GD80 for the price of the UD5 maybe i went for that board but i am glad i choose the UD5 because it serves me well enough and has a nice clean look.

As for GPU's i will probably only buy MSI because i like the aesthetics more than the Asus and the performance is most likely better because they use much better components.
Asus advertises that they have the best overclockers but the truth is the opposite, i heard from several guys that their matrix cards clocked worse than the reverence cards so that says a lot about it doesn't it









Also Asus uses too much marketing to convince people to buy their product, i mean if the product is really that good why do you need to make such an effort to sell your product right?








Mostly when i see so much marketing and it looks almost to good to be true it most likely is, so i stay as far as i can get from that and buy something people already know it works great.


----------



## mus1mus

The thing with the chips overpowering the mobo comes down to a simple truth. Overclockers just want to reach the maximum the chip can give them. Which is by far not a fault of the CPU. But more of user related. And a bit of MOBO manufacturers' mishap too.

Going back to my previous statements, I will again continue to say that overclockers push the limits out of their systems. FX chips getting hot? User buys a bigger heatsink, OVERCLOCK







. Chip still hot, user buys a CLCs Overclock again







. Chip still hot, put in a custom loop, Overclock one more time







. Chip not getting any hotter? push it once more. Wait, Vrms are hotter, put that in the loop as well







. And the trend continues up to giving the system a chiller, even LN2.

You get what I mean right?

People somewhat evolve from their experiences with the Chip. And by far, the problem with taming the chip simply goes down to the cooling a user can afford to throw into them. And for the mainstream audience, easily accessible nowadays. CPU Blocks, and the like are already available which is designed of course for the Socket a chip use. And right there the problem arouse. Especially with the lower end MOBOs. VRM Blocks, Chipset Blocks, and the rest isn't readily available for the low end motherboard segment. There you'll find the limitation of the board. Since cooling them becomes an issue. Not much is happening for the higher end segment as like I said, cooling blocks were already available for them.

So the term, something is wrong with the architecture, is somewhat, or is a bit too much disregard. What AMD created with the FX is a processor with monstrous OC'ing capability with proper cooling. The OC'ing community rejoiced with it. 8 cores that can run 5++ GHz with liquid cooling!! Very fun right? Add in the price, the deal became nicer!!









Instead, I must say that there is something wrong with the MOBOs manufacturers instead. Of course they aren't really the one to blame for this but, hey, Who among them delve into greater depths than what they have offered from the time the 8-core FXs were born?

Asus? Giga? MSI? Asrock?

They of all people should've known how power hungry these chips were. They should've at least refreshed their designs to feed these monsters. They should've improved their power delivery, VRMs' capacity, They should've at least redesigned their MOBOs with much wider VRM area so a proper heatsink can be attached into them. But who among them did that?









Anyway those should've been done, trouble is, there are other issues that goes along with those suggestions. Aesthetics, Cost, and of course designing them properly again.

Cost dictates the lower end segment but I can't point that out for the higher ends.

Anyway, lets just accept the fact that we are just end-users. Manufacturers will just roll out their products into us and us buying them. Depending on whichever segment we fall or we are buying, we can only know what's wrong with their products once we actually lay our hands into them.

A sad fact.









Also, add in the silicon lottery, things would be worse.

But this happens on everything electronics. And even Intel has this. Haswell for example is way too superior, in terms of technology, against their predecessors. Much more against FXs!!







But they too, suffer. People would still come back or still buy the Ivy Bridges for their reliability and OC'ing headroom. A bad rep for a chip that's very highly anticipated!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> as a complete newbie to computers i would hate to buy something compatible though and end up with this crap they serve us. Which is what happened to me unknowingly stepping into this new game of am3+ with a 8350. which boards even gonna work right stock? Why should i even have to ask that question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I would think even someone with a decent amount of experience would still assume the crap board is going to work OK. In some cases it wont even work right from the start. Should never be marked as compatible.
> 
> I guess I just remember long ago when it didn't really matter which motherboard you got as far as functionality. If you wanted some cool perks go big get the extra features, but everything crappy atleast worked reasonably for the most part or atleast got the job done. Nowadays it seems the processors are overpowering there sockets or the counter-parts that claim to run them to potential (chip-sets)
> 
> I must say though I am glad I went with the UD5 though and somehow got the last rev 1.1 non uefi. As much nicer as uefi is I am glad to not have so many problems to deal with as many have.
> 
> Its kinda funny about asus though they seem to make the best mobos for AMD products but cant make a ATI card to save there lives
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Vice-versa MSI cant make a AMD board to save there lives but make great ATI gpus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Think they need to combine ideas and come up with some real products.


asus makes fine gpus, just their ati non ref sucks for this gen, from what i know their 6xxx cards were fine

also people forget what stock means. stock means cnq on apm on hpc off..... that means your chip will stay around 40c


----------



## Mad Pistol

Just ran a quick Cinebench R15 on my 4.7Ghz FX 8320. Got a score of 754, which is the highest score I've ever gotten on this benchmark by a mile.









EDIT: 4.9Ghz - 782



I think it's amazing what a well placed fan can do. I never thought I would get this far on an FX 8320.


----------



## Sittinon

Hi' everyone I'm come from Thailand
I got a ******* problem wth my 990fxa ud3 rev3
I'm oc my fx8320 @4.5 vcore1.45
but Multiplier Changing and vcore drop
I'm disable every thing in BIOS(FDc) my temp on cpu aroud 50-60 fulload
how i can troubleshooting my problems
sory for my bad english
thank you for answering my questions.


----------



## Mad Pistol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sittinon*
> 
> Hi' everyone I'm come from Thailand
> I got a ******* problem wth my 990fxa ud3 rev3
> I'm oc my fx8320 @4.5 vcore1.45
> but Multiplier Changing and vcore drop
> I'm disable every thing in BIOS(FDc) my temp on cpu aroud 50-60 fulload
> how i can troubleshooting my problems
> sory for my bad english
> thank you for answering my questions.


It's due to poor VRM cooling on the board.

I added an 80mm fan via tie-downs to the VRM heatsink, and it fixed the issue.

Either that, or get another motherboard. That's your only real options.


----------



## Sittinon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> It's due to poor VRM cooling on the board.
> 
> I added an 80mm fan via tie-downs to the VRM heatsink, and it fixed the issue.
> 
> Either that, or get another motherboard. That's your only real options.


thank very much


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Well i have experience with UD3 as the UD5 and honestly they work flawless
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must admit tho that the UD5 is a better overclocker than the UD3 due to better VRM, heat sinks and power phases but then again its an higher end board and it costs little bit more.
> 
> I understand your frustration tho and that is why i did more research on components to prevent disappointment by buying the wrong components or use them for things higher than they are rated for.
> 
> I agree that if you are unlucky it can be a pain because it does not perform like you want it to perform, but mostly that is because people do not do enough research about it and end up with the wrong parts for what they wanna do with their system.
> 
> :


true that, i am very sad I did not do the suffice research on the UD3=/ I mean this is my first build so i guess i can be forgiven=]
ud3 performs just fine at stock chips, but not beyond that=/
I know from personally experience since I decided to upgrade my fx4300 to 8350 on my ud3...and all I could remember was panicing when I even tried to OC it to 4.2 it would overheat like crazy and my finger would almost burn touching the VRM. I didnt even understand why my HW monitor said 75, 80C on my VRM i thought it was a glitch!!! But my finger doesnt lie! lol

I returned the chip thinking it was a bad chip but ALAS it was the board=/

so iv stuck with my dependable 4300 and OC it at 4.7 stable always below 45C under load=]

RESEARCH RESEARCH is key to happiness!!

I hope new FX chips when they announce it nov 11th it could possibly be AM3+ socket, AND their temp is like the fx 6XXX/4XXX range, then id buy them in a heart beat and not sell my ud3=p


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> true that, i am very sad I did not do the suffice research on the UD3=/ I mean this is my first build so i guess i can be forgiven=]
> ud3 performs just fine at stock chips, but not beyond that=/
> I know from personally experience since I decided to upgrade my fx4300 to 8350 on my ud3...and all I could remember was panicing when I even tried to OC it to 4.2 it would overheat like crazy and my finger would almost burn touching the VRM. I didnt even understand why my HW monitor said 75, 80C on my VRM i thought it was a glitch!!! But my finger doesnt lie! lol
> 
> I returned the chip thinking it was a bad chip but ALAS it was the board=/
> 
> so iv stuck with my dependable 4300 and OC it at 4.7 stable always below 45C under load=]
> 
> RESEARCH RESEARCH is key to happiness!!
> 
> I hope new FX chips when they announce it nov 11th it could possibly be AM3+ socket, AND their temp is like the fx 6XXX/4XXX range, then id buy them in a heart beat and not sell my ud3=p


Well that's the thing isn't it? i mean do some research before you buy something but most people want to cheap out the wrong parts like motherboard, PSU and let those be the most important things in a system









don't get me wrong tho, i understand it completely and to be honest i did the same a while back but soon i discovered that cheap out on some things may cost a lot more money after.
I mean if you are planning to overclock your system and buy an motherboard for like 80 dollar/euro and overclock the hell out of it and later complains that it isn't stable and runs too hot, has more to do with the research and knowledge of products than the actual product itself doesn't it? than you have to sell it again and buy an better board to maintain your high overclocks.. so you better off with some good advice and maybe some reviews from good sources that's not only good for the wallet but also for headaches









this was only an example, i am not revering to people so hold your horses









Look, its okay to make mistakes because that is the way you learn from it (well most of us do) gladly i make a lot of mistakes so i can learn from it, and that is why it is important to share as much information about it so other people can learn from it too so that they don't make the same mistakes.

But sadly i talked to some people here that claim to have knowledge about PC's and don't let other people teach them something because they know it all. But later on i hear the other side of the story that some things did not workout that good for them after all and that is just their ignorance for not understanding enough and don't let people teach them something.

Its well advised to do some research on stuff you don't fully understand if you want to buy/work with them. Also i never go by only one simple review or someones opinion on something, if i want to know something i will go and look several reviews about it and maybe look it up on you tube to see it for myself.

The most important components are: Motherboard, PSU motherboard because of the stability and PSU because you want your components to get the cleanest power possible also for stability and lifespan of the parts you have installed.

the cooler and other parts are important as well but has more to do with what you want to do with your system basically.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> asus makes fine gpus, just their ati non ref sucks for this gen, from what i know their 6xxx cards were fine
> 
> also people forget what stock means. stock means cnq on apm on hpc off..... that means your chip will stay around 40c


That msi board i had could not successfully pass p95 at stock with or wiithout power saving features. The vcore was all over the place.

Ontop of that they advertise like crazy "unlock your fx processors true potential." When in reality it cant even handle stock.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Well that's the thing isn't it? i mean do some research before you buy something but most people want to cheap out the wrong parts like motherboard, PSU and let those be the most important things in a system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> don't get me wrong tho, i understand it completely and to be honest i did the same a while back but soon i discovered that cheap out on some things may cost a lot more money after.
> I mean if you are planning to overclock your system and buy an motherboard for like 80 dollar/euro and overclock the hell out of it and later complains that it isn't stable and runs too hot, has more to do with the research and knowledge of products than the actual product itself doesn't it? than you have to sell it again and buy an better board to maintain your high overclocks.. so you better off with some good advice and maybe some reviews from good sources that's not only good for the wallet but also for headaches
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this was only an example, i am not revering to people so hold your horses
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look, its okay to make mistakes because that is the way you learn from it (well most of us do) gladly i make a lot of mistakes so i can learn from it, and that is why it is important to share as much information about it so other people can learn from it too so that they don't make the same mistakes.
> 
> But sadly i talked to some people here that claim to have knowledge about PC's and don't let other people teach them something because they know it all. But later on i hear the other side of the story that some things did not workout that good for them after all and that is just their ignorance for not understanding enough and don't let people teach them something.
> 
> Its well advised to do some research on stuff you don't fully understand if you want to buy/work with them. Also i never go by only one simple review or someones opinion on something, if i want to know something i will go and look several reviews about it and maybe look it up on you tube to see it for myself.
> 
> The most important components are: Motherboard, PSU motherboard because of the stability and PSU because you want your components to get the cleanest power possible also for stability and lifespan of the parts you have installed.
> 
> the cooler and other parts are important as well but has more to do with what you want to do with your system basically.


Yeap, agreed, I know I spent a little too few on the mobo but it was only because I saw such high reviews on newegg, but little did I know those reviews contained only stock cpus on the mobo, not overclocked cpus=/
the only good things i did was pay a premium for my platinum 700w PSU for a good future crossfire=]
Hence OCN comes into play, you want good reviews that are wellrounded look for a nice forum around here. People are like to fool around with thier technology have a diversified knowledge of things.=]
saddly there are those few who troll -____-

Ether way at least this board is "fixable" many solutions include a wired fan, adding those vrm heat sinks or w/e they called etc etc so not all hope is lost=]


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Pistol*
> 
> Just ran a quick Cinebench R15 on my 4.7Ghz FX 8320. Got a score of 754, which is the highest score I've ever gotten on this benchmark by a mile.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: 4.9Ghz - 782
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's amazing what a well placed fan can do. I never thought I would get this far on an FX 8320.


Something within me tells yours is a "Golden Chip"









If this is also done on a UD3 Rev. 3, it truly is.

I mean I can't even get away with validating a 4.9 on 1.500, while you can do CB at 4.9!!









For you to maximize your Lottery win, get some better cooling and you'll be at 5+GHz!!

I'd buy something at least like an H100i if I were you.






























Is that the latest CB? Mine shows scores like 8.00, 10.00 but not 788s or hundreds.


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, I tried searching teh thread about this crossfire question, but was'nt successful so I thought I'd ask.

I'm looking at either the UD5 or UD7. They both say they have 2 PCIEx16 slots. I see where it says they support SLI and Crossfire, but will these slots both continue to run at x16 if I ran 2 cards in SLI/CF? Or will one drop down to x8 or so?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I tried searching teh thread about this crossfire question, but was'nt successful so I thought I'd ask.
> 
> I'm looking at either the UD5 or UD7. They both say they have 2 PCIEx16 slots. I see where it says they support SLI and Crossfire, but will these slots both continue to run at x16 if I ran 2 cards in SLI/CF? Or will one drop down to x8 or so?


Theory says, they will still together run at X16 each. That's because they will share the Bandwidth offered by the PCIe 2.0 interface which is 32 lanes with an estimated bandwidth (throughput) of 16 Gbps.

X8 will happen if you use more than 2 cards in SLI / Crossfire set-up.

Edit: For reference, 990FX chipsets offer 38 bus lanes: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AMD_900_chipset_series

So running 2 cards at X16 is possible.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Theory says, they will still together run at X16 each. That's because they will share the Bandwidth offered by the PCIe 2.0 interface which is 32 lanes with an estimated bandwidth (throughput) of 16 Gbps.
> 
> X8 will happen if you use more than 2 cards in SLI / Crossfire set-up.


Ok, thank you. I wanted to ask first, because I've seen a few other boards specifically say Dual x16, and others only say 2 at x16..etc.

Also the board in this build currently (ASUS M5A99FX PRO) said Dual x16, yet the 2nd card is only being reported at x8 by CPU-Z, But it is also being reported at x16 within HWInfo.


----------



## dmfree88

what about gpu-z? same as cpu-z?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> what about gpu-z? same as cpu-z?


Yes, my mistake, I was thinking GPU-Z, and typed CPU-Z instead.


----------



## dmfree88

o ok nevermind my bad


----------



## mus1mus

Did read some info on the query.

UD7 supports 2 X16 PCIe lanes. So is the UD5.

With these algorithms:

1 card, X16
2 cards, 2 X16 (if inserted into X16 ports) otherwise, it'll be X16 + X8;
3 cards, 1 X16 + 2 X8. see release notes http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4455#sp
4 cards 4 X8

CHV F-Z also has the same algorithm http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/CROSSHAIR_V_FORMULAZ/#specifications

But that M5A99-Pro is a bit different. It only has 2 x16 ports and 2 X4 mode ports. http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M5A99FX_PRO_R20/#specifications

Those x4 ports share lanes with the 2nd x16 port. I think ASUS made the sharing of the lanes as:

port 1: X16

port 2: X16 (shared with ports 3&4 X4)

That may be the reason why in crossfire/sli, you see the 2nd card being read as X8.

can you confirm if you have anything attached on the other ports?


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I tried searching teh thread about this crossfire question, but was'nt successful so I thought I'd ask.
> 
> I'm looking at either the UD5 or UD7. They both say they have 2 PCIEx16 slots. I see where it says they support SLI and Crossfire, but will these slots both continue to run at x16 if I ran 2 cards in SLI/CF? Or will one drop down to x8 or so?


I'm can confirm that 2 * PCIEx16 2.0 works on my UD3

runnin' GTX 760 SLI


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Did read some info on the query.
> 
> UD7 supports 2 X16 PCIe lanes. So is the UD5.
> 
> With these algorithms:
> 
> 1 card, X16
> 2 cards, 2 X16 (if inserted into X16 ports) otherwise, it'll be X16 + X8;
> 3 cards, 1 X16 + 2 X8. see release notes http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4455#sp
> 4 cards 4 X8
> 
> CHV F-Z also has the same algorithm http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/CROSSHAIR_V_FORMULAZ/#specifications
> 
> But that M5A99-Pro is a bit different. It only has 2 x16 ports and 2 X4 mode ports. http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M5A99FX_PRO_R20/#specifications
> 
> Those x4 ports share lanes with the 2nd x16 port. I think ASUS made the sharing of the lanes as:
> 
> port 1: X16
> 
> port 2: X16 (shared with ports 3&4 X4)
> 
> That may be the reason why in crossfire/sli, you see the 2nd card being read as X8.
> 
> can you confirm if you have anything attached on the other ports?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I'm can confirm that 2 * PCIEx16 2.0 works on my UD3
> 
> runnin' GTX 760 SLI


Thanks for the info guys, Helps sway my motherboard buying decision very much.

On my ASUS board, I only have my 2 6850's installed, nothing else in any other slots. I tried swapping the cards around and one at a time, and everything came out normally, but whenever both cards were installed, the second card (located in the second PCIEx16 slot) would register as x8.


----------



## mus1mus

Asus may have allocated the resources to other things.









Anyway, X16/X8 SLI/Crossfire won't really take a toll on performance. But does it? Only way to confirm this is byt testing the performance of a single card compared to dual.

In theory you should have twice the performance of a single card in SLI/Crossfire.

If you are seeing way less than that then you really need to consider the PCIe algorithms for each board.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks for the info guys, Helps sway my motherboard buying decision very much.
> 
> On my ASUS board, I only have my 2 6850's installed, nothing else in any other slots. I tried swapping the cards around and one at a time, and everything came out normally, but whenever both cards were installed, the second card (located in the second PCIEx16 slot) would register as x8.


I'm reading it does not make much difference in performance.... 8x vs 16x


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Asus may have allocated the resources to other things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, X16/X8 SLI/Crossfire won't really take a toll on performance. But does it? Only way to confirm this is byt testing the performance of a single card compared to dual.
> 
> In theory you should have twice the performance of a single card in SLI/Crossfire.
> 
> If you are seeing way less than that then you really need to consider the PCIe algorithms for each board.


I've tested this before, the results were satisfying for me. I was seeing close to double the performance, depending which game or benchmark i tried. So I just sort of left it as is. I was aware that running at x8 mode wouldnt hurt performance too much. Which is why I didnt start flailing tables and yelling at customer service reps. lol.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I'm reading it does not make much difference in performance.... 8x vs 16x


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I've tested this before, the results were satisfying for me. I was seeing close to double the performance, depending which game or benchmark i tried. So I just sort of left it as is. I was aware that running at x8 mode wouldnt hurt performance too much. Which is why I didnt start flailing tables and yelling at customer service reps. lol.


lol









But it will if you are running PCIe 3.0 cards on an Intel Rig with PCIe 3.0 support.

For AMD, X8 will do just fine especially at the moment since, even the new Saberkitty (the only AM3+ Mobo with PCIe 3.0 support) the chipset can only support PCIe 2.0. And even PCIe 3.0 doesn't have a huge marginal advantage over the PCIe 2.0 ATM. The technology isn't that mature yet to fully utilize the bandwidth available.

Let's just hope the Steamroller and the new Chipset will offer wider bandwidth than the 990FX.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I tried searching teh thread about this crossfire question, but was'nt successful so I thought I'd ask.
> 
> I'm looking at either the UD5 or UD7. They both say they have 2 PCIEx16 slots. I see where it says they support SLI and Crossfire, but will these slots both continue to run at x16 if I ran 2 cards in SLI/CF? Or will one drop down to x8 or so?


there are 4 slots that share bandwidth on the ud7 so if any other cards are installed in either of the 2 slots that share bandwidth ( even if it is just a x1 card ) it will drop the corresponding slot to 8x. there are other slots you can use that dont share bandwidth on the ud7, same on the CVFz


----------



## Sittinon

hi everyone
where I can get a vrm heatsink or waterblock 990fxa-ud3 rev3.0


----------



## Hellsrage

Well, great. I keep getting a BSOD after using the PC for a while, I have no idea why. I tried upping the voltage and it still happens, I'm at a loss on this one, no idea what's causing this.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Well, great. I keep getting a BSOD after using the PC for a while, I have no idea why. I tried upping the voltage and it still happens, I'm at a loss on this one, no idea what's causing this.


Maybe try memtest86+.

Its possible you have bad RAM.

about once a day, I was getting "critical_structure_corruption" BOSD. It turned out to be using this 2x8gb Patriot Sapphire Blue RAM in combination with 2x8gb Crucial...

I knew it had to be the RAM as the BOSD started after I installed that RAM I got back from RMA.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Well, great. I keep getting a BSOD after using the PC for a while, I have no idea why. I tried upping the voltage and it still happens, I'm at a loss on this one, no idea what's causing this.


BSOD code would be helpful to point where that error comes from. i.e.

BSOD Codes for i7 x58 chipset
0x101 = increase vcore
0x124 = increase/decrease QPI/VTT first, if not increase/decrease vcore...have to test to see which one it is
0x0A = unstable RAM/IMC, increase QPI first, if that doesn't work increase vcore
0x1A = Memory management error. It usually means a bad stick of Ram. Test with Memtest or whatever you prefer. Try raising your Ram voltage
0x1E = increase vcore
0x3B = increase vcore
0x3D = increase vcore
0xD1 = QPI/VTT, increase/decrease as necessary, can also be unstable Ram, raise Ram voltage
0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances
0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency or uncore multi unstable, increase RAM voltage or adjust QPI/VTT, or lower uncore if you're higher than 2x
0x109 = Not enough or too Much memory voltage
0x116 = Low IOH (NB) voltage, GPU issue (most common when running multi-GPU/overclocking GPU)
0x7E = Corrupted OS file, possibly from overclocking. Run sfc /scannow and chkdsk /r

BSOD Codes for SandyBridge
0x124 = add/remove vcore or QPI/VTT voltage (usually Vcore, once it was QPI/VTT)
0x101 = add more vcore
0x50 = RAM timings/Frequency add DDR3 voltage or add QPI/VTT
0x1E = add more vcore
0x3B = add more vcore
0xD1 = add QPI/VTT voltage
"0x9C = QPI/VTT most likely, but increasing vcore has helped in some instances"
0X109 = add DDR3 voltage
0x0A = add QPI/VTT voltage

These are for Intel. But seing the same codes will direct you to a same solution on AMD..


----------



## karupt

Quick survey guys. Is it normal to take 4-5 seconds just to post on the ud3?


----------



## mus1mus

Scroll back a few posts in here and someone has the solution for the issue.


----------



## dmfree88

a few haha prolly like 40 pages back good luck


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> a few haha prolly like 40 pages back good luck


























never noticed it was like 40 pages ago TBH!!


----------



## dmfree88

lol yeah i dunno how far it actually was but it always seems closer then it is lol


----------



## karupt

Do you guys have any links? Search is not giving much help


----------



## dmfree88

i dont remember exactly.. try maybe turning turbo-core on and setting it to the same clock as cpu (basically same as it being off). this has fixed some reset issues with some people, may help your post problem


----------



## mus1mus

Side note:

R9s have been released!!!


----------



## Hellsrage

Huh, I ran a registry cleaner after my last BSOD, has not happened since. Not sure if that actually fixed it or if BSOD is just waiting to screw me over when doing something important.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Most anytime I get a BSOD it has been my memory. Either I got to aggressive with speed and timing or I had the NB frequency up higher than I thought from messing with FSB speeds. Not saying that is what is causing yours, its just been my experience.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well I have a H100i on the way plus its finally cooling off here. I plan on seeing if my VRM mods on my UD3 can handle pushing this 8350 higher than 4.5ghz. Should we start taking bets on what happens? lol


----------



## miklkit

I have found that removing the I/O panel helps with air flow in that corner.


----------



## Mega Man

that tells me
1 case fans not arranged properly
2 case has poor airflow
3 fans are not high quality

one of these.


----------



## dmfree88

Maybe all 3


----------



## hurricane28

My temps drop 4c if i remove the dust filter in the front of my Corsair obsidian 650D.

its very restrictive and hard to clean so i am not very happy with my case, the obsidian 750D would be much better for me so i am going to order that case in the near future.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I have an Antec Twelve Hundred that has 5 120mm Tricool fans and the 200mm top fan. Airflow is not an issue so much as this board being a steaming heap of poo. Besides the little 80mm fan strapped right on top of the VRM heatsink guarantees airflow in the VRM area. I'm just curious if the VRM's can handle pushing the 8350 any harder.


----------



## Mega Man

i know ppl with 5.0-5.2ghz on ud3s, it is not the board.

hate to say but antec fans are meh, not good in cfm department, and horrible in static pressure, that is where i would start if i were you . good static pressure, good cfm

blowing hot air on the vrms will reduce the fans helpfulness

imo if you can i would also return the h100 and get this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103196 ( new h220 fyi ) much more cooling perf, even in stock, dont knwo how good the fans are though

h100 will only net ~ 4.7, or 4.8 if you are lucky


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well you are telling the wrong person its not the board for starters, being I'm the guy that discovered the way to fix it. Please stick to giving out information on things you actually know about.

Rev 1 and Rev 1.1 are fine. The Rev 3, the one I have, is a heap. Can you please tell me how exactly the board is to allow any sort of overclock when a stock 8350 caused so much heat on the VRM's the actual PCB warped so badly the VRM's no longer made contact with the heatsink? Now keep in mind that this was not an isolated incidence with just me. Many others here have discovered the same exact thing happened to them. The Rev 3 board is not on the same level as the previous revisions. I can't speak for the Rev 4 so I will not post any opinions other than I emailed Gigabyte with my findings and the Rev 4 was released a couple months later.

So again, please do not go spreading FUD on something you don't understand.

As for the cooler you recommend. There is not a single review on it that I can find. Also it is $40 more than what I paid for the H100i. If were going to spend that much money would be going with H110 or NZXT Kraken.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know ppl with 5.0-5.2ghz on ud3s, it is not the board.
> 
> hate to say but antec fans are meh, not good in cfm department, and horrible in static pressure, that is where i would start if i were you . good static pressure, good cfm
> 
> blowing hot air on the vrms will reduce the fans helpfulness
> 
> imo if you can i would also return the h100 and get this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103196 ( new h220 fyi ) much more cooling perf, even in stock, dont knwo how good the fans are though
> 
> h100 will only net ~ 4.7, or 4.8 if you are lucky


dude, honestly?

This guy had many troubles with the UD3 due to its poor VRM heat sinks and trotting issues and so did i when i was reaching for the max overclock for this chip.

I almost fried my the VRM's on the UD3 when i was only hitting 4.6 with this same exact CPU for crying out loud man.

And the h100i is ONE of the best closed loop coolers IF you use the standard fans that come included with it, hell i could pull 5ghz on push/pull with the standard tornado fans, YES they are utterly loud but i couldn't find any fan that outperforms it with the same DB.

At first i did not like my cooler much because of the noise but after a while i got used to it, than i had fan issues with the h100i and contacted Corsair and within 1 week i got new ones.

Honestly man, i never saw such a good service and fast RMA than Corsair.

I run my CPU at 4.4ghz now at stock volts and i run prime95 for couple of hours when having the Corsair link fan profile set to quiet mode, i can't barely hear it and it did not go over the 45c under full stress... even when i run 4.8ghz with 1.56 volts i did not get higher than 60c.... again this was in push/pull config.

You do need an good case airflow because those tornado fans sucking all the air out of the case so make sure that there is enough fresh air.

That is one of the reasons i need another case because my Obsidian 650D has an very poor airflow and the mesh in the front is very restrictive even when i put an BitFenix Spectre PRO 200mm Fan Blue LED - Black on the front its still not enough.

that is why i want to go with the Obsidian 750D so that i can mount my 2x 120mm cooler master sickleflow fans on the front to make sure i have enough fresh air.

anyway, how does your loop performs compared to the h100i? i am very curious.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I can't speak for the Rev 4 so I will not post any opinions other than I emailed Gigabyte with my findings and the Rev 4 was released a couple months later.


I originally had a rev3 and I returned it to Tiger Direct and exchanged it for the rev4. I would have gotten a Sabertooth but because I had sent in the UPC for the rebate I was stuck with the UD3.

The UD3 rev4 has turned out to be great and switching would have been a mistake.

PCI-E 16x2 2.0 for SLI...

It also features firewire which many of the others lack. I do use firewire!

This replaced my mac mini, so from that I have a m-audio firewire sound card/midi controller that I have hooked to a Roland MT32. plus 3TB g-technology external drive.

Aesthetically, comparing other motherboards, side-by-side I think its one of coolest looking. I guess that is really a matter of opinion, but its definitely not bad looking. The heat pipe thing gets points.

*turbo=core-APM* is the magic formula that fixes all issues









now I'm 100% happy with the rev4 and the only feature it lacks is USB3 connector for the front of the case.

I'm still waiting for the $10 rebate but I think $122 for this board was great. $122 for the rev3... not so much.

Had I have kept the rev3 I probably would of had to spend the difference between the USD3 and the Sabertooth in parts and probably about double that in tools to fix it


----------



## Pudfark

Wow....the last three posts? My most favorite folks.

@ Mega Man, Oz-inator and Hurricane,

Imho opinion, everyone of you is right in your own way. I do not possess any differing info from what y'all have posted.
Matter of fact....just about everything, I think I know, I've learned from the three of you.

Thank You All

I had the UD3 rev. 1.1 and it melted/warped just like Oz said.
I then changed to a SabreKitty and no more problems...though the VRMS have a fan on the front and backsides of the motherboard.
Overheating of any sort has been eliminated. My 8350 is cooled by a H110 now....earlier, a H100i.

My computer case is an Antec LanBoy Air, modded for the H110....and there is no air pressure involved as it is a "screendoor case". I have 7 120mm fans and two 140mm fans. I have experienced no cooling problems other than those the occurred with the UD3 with 8350 and H100i and no fans at that time on the VRMs....so, I learned the same lesson as the Oz-inator.

Mega Man posts both here and in the SaberKitty forum.....I like his knowledge and flexibility in posting about two different boards.

Hurricane...you keep things properly mixed and report your experiences accurately.

Since buying the SaberKitty in May, modding on the VRM fans.....I am very happy and my system is speedy and "cool".

If I could? I'd buy the first couple of rounds at the "watering hole" for you guys....


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I originally had a rev3 and I returned it to Tiger Direct and exchanged it for the rev4. I would have gotten a Sabertooth but because I had sent in the UPC for the rebate I was stuck with the UD3.
> 
> The UD3 rev4 has turned out to be great and switching would have been a mistake.
> 
> PCI-E 16x2 2.0 for SLI...
> 
> It also features firewire which many of the others lack. I do use firewire!
> 
> This replaced my mac mini, so from that I have a m-audio firewire sound card/midi controller that I have hooked to a Roland MT32. plus 3TB g-technology external drive.
> 
> Aesthetically, comparing other motherboards, side-by-side I think its one of coolest looking. I guess that is really a matter of opinion, but its definitely not bad looking. The heat pipe thing gets points.
> 
> *turbo=core-APM* is the magic formula that fixes all issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now I'm 100% happy with the rev4 and the only feature it lacks is USB3 connector for the front of the case.
> 
> I'm still waiting for the $10 rebate but I think $122 for this board was great. $122 for the rev3... not so much.
> 
> Had I have kept the rev3 I probably would of had to spend the difference between the USD3 and the Sabertooth in parts and probably about double that in tools to fix it


I spent about 25 dollars in parts plus things already had laying around to "fix" my Rev 3. Granted fixed is able to run my 8350 at 4.5ghz. My CPU cooler is maxed out, which is why I picked up the H100i. I'm curious to see if my fixes allow the board to be pushed any harder. I have my doubts being I had to go through such trouble to get what I have now but its worth a shot to find the max it can do before I put in a new motherboard. Then at least I can let others know what I ACTUALLY found instead of making blanket statements.


----------



## DampMonkey

UD3+8350 owner here. Finally got through 10 IBT runs at 5ghz. been at 4.9 for months. prime will be the next test, but its looking good so far

fullsize screenshot: http://i.imgur.com/XUZXyGR.jpg


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Well you are telling the wrong person its not the board for starters, being I'm the guy that discovered the way to fix it. Please stick to giving out information on things you actually know about.
> 
> Rev 1 and Rev 1.1 are fine. The Rev 3, the one I have, is a heap. Can you please tell me how exactly the board is to allow any sort of overclock when a stock 8350 caused so much heat on the VRM's the actual PCB warped so badly the VRM's no longer made contact with the heatsink? Now keep in mind that this was not an isolated incidence with just me. Many others here have discovered the same exact thing happened to them. The Rev 3 board is not on the same level as the previous revisions. I can't speak for the Rev 4 so I will not post any opinions other than I emailed Gigabyte with my findings and the Rev 4 was released a couple months later.
> 
> So again, please do not go spreading FUD on something you don't understand.
> 
> As for the cooler you recommend. There is not a single review on it that I can find. Also it is $40 more than what I paid for the H100i. If were going to spend that much money would be going with H110 or NZXT Kraken.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> UD3+8350 owner here. Finally got through 10 IBT runs at 5ghz. been at 4.9 for months. prime will be the next test, but its looking good so far
> 
> fullsize screenshot: http://i.imgur.com/XUZXyGR.jpg


you ever hear of the swiftech h220? this is the new version ( thanks to the patent trolls, astech ( spelling ) )

and the h220 blows any h*** product ( h100,h100i ect ) out of the water.

lastly
i am not spreading any fud around, but i would be willing to bet the warping was user error and *you* didnt cool the vrms like you need to, i can warp any board by not paying attention to VRM temps and just going all out.

anyone experienced with 83xx ocing knows no matter what board you get you start getting a decent oc or more, you need to cool the vrms, if you dont, they will get to hot/ explode or warp your board. bud that would be *YOUR or anyone elses* fault that attempts it, i have a revb3 ud7 and it works just fine, as i said i know SEVERAL ppl including the poster above ( which just so happens to be random happenstance ) that can get good ocs without issue on the ud3.
the first time you said "my board warped because it got too hot " i knew what had happened.
as for the "multitudes of people with this same issue", i am sure they were also "cooling" their vrms because




you have shown ZERO proof that it was the boards fault.... ZERO

heck i am tempted to goto microcenter, buy a ud3 rev3, put it to 5ghz and run prime for a week with my ram @ 2400, cpu/nb @ 2600 ( 8 gb sticks which will put much more stress on the imc and thus more heat/ more power needed on the imc ) and ht oced just for the extra heat generated. just to show you how wrong you are the ud3 is very capable if you take the proper precautions.

you think ppl who oc 7970 cards just go untill it blows???? no one of the first thing we will tell you is watch VRM temps, now i will give you gigabyte did not include a vrm sensor, among may other sensors they should of, but seriously?? what did you expect? that the vrms will stay room temp cool?

am i saying that gigabytes board this go is good..... no... but they are not all as bad as you make them out to be.... not by along shot.

as for hurr. well. you keep switching, first you said h100 is amazing awesomesauce, then you switch to it is crap, now it is back to amazing.......... which is it? if oyu want i can go through the 83xx club and bring up quotes.

the best AIO cooler is the h220 bar none ( including the new h220 rebrand by CM )

as for my loop i think it does great considering my ht volts, cpu/nb volts and a darn good OC


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Dude I've read a lot of your posts. You talk to everyone like you know something about everything. Just stop. Right now just stop. You are not and will not convince me of anything. You do not own this board you haven't used this board. You do not have any clue about this board.

I've been doing this a long time. I'm not some schmuck off the street that just slaps some parts together and blames the manufacturer for the problems. I'm also the guy that refused to believe gigabyte's claims it is a bios issue. Funny enough they implemented my suggestions into the Rev 4 boards. I suggest that you go back and read the last 250-300 pages of this thread before you put your two cents in.

Again please stop spreading FUD before you kill any credibility you have left.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> -snip-


Go get a UD3 Rev. 3 and try to OC at all with your FX-8350, with no fan right on top on the VRMs. It's the board, the moment you have to start adding crap to a motherboard to get stable at 4.2GHz is the moment you know the board is a giant piece of crap. How many Saberthooth owners have to zip tie 80mm fans directly over their VRMs heat spreader to get stable at 4.2GHz? Go ahead show me one freaking owner who has to do that. Or how about UD5 owners? Any of you guys had to go and strap a fan right over you VRMs to be stable at 4.2GHz? Anyone?

While all Gigabyte boards may not be bad, this particular board, *UD3 Rev. 3* deserves everything anyone has ever said was bad about it and to that point so does Gigabyte, they made a terrible product, one that they have now seemingly forgot about. I'd be shocked to hell and back if we EVER get another BIOS update on it.

Nobody expects a UD3 to run at 5GHz without modified cooling(I wouldn't trust any UD3 @5GHz for long), but it should certainly be able to run at 4.5GHz without strapping a fan on top of the VRM heat spreaders, that's just freaking ridiculous. But lets not forget it can't even do 4.2GHz, that's just how amazing this board is.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the best AIO cooler is the h220 bar none ( including the new h220 rebrand by CM )


Well, "technically" the h320 is superior to the h220. jus sayin


----------



## hurricane28

Well yes i said at first it was crappy and it was actually because of the faulty fans and firmware, but gladly they fixed everything and got some extra fans from Corsair and everything works perfect now.

If you claim that the swiftech h220 is an waaaayy better cooler than the h100i well post some proof than, i mean i looked at a lot of reviews on the net and they all perform similar although some are more quiet than the other.

As for the UD3 boards, well he exaggerated a little bit but mine had the same problem warping and the VRM heat sink was barely touching the VRM's at all because of those worthless plastic pins that are way to sloppy and weak to pull the heat sink towards the VRM. mine was rev 1.1 btw.

Again why do you think i went for the UD5?

1: much better heat sinks for the VRM.

2: better power phase.

3: more capacitors.

Long story short its an higher end board that can maintain an higher overclock much better than the UD3.

You never had the experience with both of the boards so where did you get your information from? i mean we both have (had) the UD3 and it was a nice board but certainly not an good overclocking board.

But i think its useless to argue with you because you always know better and always telling people they are wrong anyway.... i am not the only one who claims that.

Me on the other hand tries to understand what someone is typing and maybe learn something i overlooked or did not understand correctly.

Also i am not to PROUD to say i am wrong, so if i am wrong i will emit it and try to understand what i did wrong.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Go get a UD3 Rev. 3 and try to OC at all with your FX-8350, with no fan right on top on the VRMs. It's the board, the moment you have to start adding crap to a motherboard to get stable at 4.2GHz is the moment you know the board is a giant piece of crap. How many Saberthooth owners have to zip tie 80mm fans directly over their VRMs heat spreader to get stable at 4.2GHz? Go ahead show me one freaking owner who has to do that. Or how about UD5 owners? Any of you guys had to go and strap a fan right over you VRMs to be stable at 4.2GHz? Anyone?
> 
> While all Gigabyte boards may not be bad, this particular board, *UD3 Rev. 3* deserves everything anyone has ever said was bad about it and to that point so does Gigabyte, they made a terrible product, one that they have now seemingly forgot about. I'd be shocked to hell and back if we EVER get another BIOS update on it.
> 
> Nobody expects a UD3 to run at 5GHz without modified cooling(I wouldn't trust any UD3 @5GHz for long), but it should certainly be able to run at 4.5GHz without strapping a fan on top of the VRM heat spreaders, that's just freaking ridiculous. But lets not forget it can't even do 4.2GHz, that's just how amazing this board is.


Mine warped at stock speeds. Megaman is a know it all that knows nothing about the actual discussion at hand. He has exactly zero experience with the board yet is making claims about everyone else's incompetence. He is the worst kind of person on the forums. Talking down to everyone when he himself actually has no substance to add.

There is no reason at all anyone should have to add a fan to the VRM's on a board that "supports"the 8350. I've pushed other chips much harder on boards without this warping. If it weren't an issue Gigabyte would not have released a rev 4 addressing the issues I raised to them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Well, "technically" the h320 is superior to the h220. jus sayin


your right !!!! i hope CM brings out both variants, as of now i only know of the 220 !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Mine warped at stock speeds. Megaman is a know it all that knows nothing about the actual discussion at hand. He has exactly zero experience with the board yet is making claims about everyone else's incompetence. He is the worst kind of person on the forums. Talking down to everyone when he himself actually has no substance to add.
> 
> There is no reason at all anyone should have to add a fan to the VRM's on a board that "supports"the 8350. I've pushed other chips much harder on boards without this warping. If it weren't an issue Gigabyte would not have released a rev 4 addressing the issues I raised to them.


proof ? is it possible you had a bad board if this is true? you know it happens. i do not talk down to anyone. you take this way way to personally i do prove false info false. you know there is an ignore button if i bother you so bad.

hurr here you go

since i know how much you like you tube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVNuN0UcYUQ with a * please see below video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJQBzMALZ7s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWQGmX994fU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhkWrSmvrZk

as for real reviewers that i trust
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/

.... i could go on


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Mine warped at stock speeds. Megaman is a know it all that knows nothing about the actual discussion at hand. He has exactly zero experience with the board yet is making claims about everyone else's incompetence. He is the worst kind of person on the forums. Talking down to everyone when he himself actually has no substance to add.
> 
> There is no reason at all anyone should have to add a fan to the VRM's on a board that "supports"the 8350. I've pushed other chips much harder on boards without this warping. If it weren't an issue Gigabyte would not have released a rev 4 addressing the issues I raised to them.


Well how did you think he came up with the name MEGA MAN?









No seriously, Mega Man is actually a nice dude but instead of telling people they are wrong it would be better for him to listen or look at what people are actually meaning on the subject on what they are talking about.

But mostly with him and sadly with some other people in an particular thread its the same story and to discus with them is impossible simply because they are so full of them self and the first thing they say is ''NO YOU ARE WRONG''

Heck one time i spoke to some guy who had problems and i gave him some advice and it helped him, later on i had some problems myself and he had some excellent advises.
What i mean is that's the way to discuss on forums instead of cutting each other throats but some people sadly have an enormous ego and an metal plate in front of their face.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Proof? again go back 250 pages or so. I'm not the only one that has this problem. Gigabyte says there is nothing wrong with my board.

You do speak down to users. Quite often actually. However you won't do it to me because unlike you I know just what is going on with my board. As I've said I've been doing this for quite some time and I was the one that rejected gigabytes explanation and actually went about solving the problem. If you have info to add about the the UD7 or sabertooth that is fantastic. However you do not have any experience with the UD3 Rev 3. There is is nothing wrong with admitting you don't know what issues plague it but you are adamant about sharing info in something you actually have exactly zero real world experience in.

I've had contact with rev 1.0 and rev 1.1 users. The Rev 3 is an issue. The rev 4 corrected them as far as I know.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> your right !!!! i hope CM brings out both variants, as of now i only know of the 220 !
> proof ? is it possible you had a bad board if this is true? you know it happens. i do not talk down to anyone. you take this way way to personally i do prove false info false. you know there is an ignore button if i bother you so bad.
> 
> hurr here you go
> 
> since i know how much you like you tube
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVNuN0UcYUQ with a * please see below video
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJQBzMALZ7s
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWQGmX994fU
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DhkWrSmvrZk
> 
> as for real reviewers that i trust
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/
> 
> .... i could go on


Really? Linus Sebastian.... yet again you make fun of people who DO some research about water cooling and such stuff...

are you really that insecure that you have to make fun of people to make yourself feel better? or is it you enormous EGO that stands in your way to understand what i am trying to say?

either way both are not really helping people.

And yes i like YouTube because you can actually see what the person is doing and see what he gets, but then again you know it all better,even than an guy that builds and sells PC's all over the world with hardware that we can only dream of for years now.

yet again i don't see any comparison to an h100i, all i see is incoherent thoughts and lousy reviews from that guy so NO Linus is not to be trusted.

But then again that cooler performs terrible with the stock fans that come included with it so for additional good cooling you need 3rd party fans for it to perform even NEAR the h100i and i am running stock fans.

Come with some better proof than this utter unreliable links with not ONE review of that cooler.


----------



## miklkit

Can I join in now or will I get erased again?









The UD3 is junk. As a former R3 and R4 owner I have spent the money and can say that.

Look at this pic. The is a UD3 with a Thermalright HR-09U Type 2 VRM cooler installed. It is a heat pipe type that is tall enough to catch the air stream going out the case exhaust fan.
Plus there were plenty of case fans. That was not good enough.

Look at the I/O panel. Notice the misalignment cause by the warped motherboard.

This damage was caused by running an 8350 at 4.5 ghz with a vcore +0.025v over stock, whatever that is. Something like 1.44v.


The R4 wasn't any better. It throttled with everything at out of the box settings. And that was with the same Silverstone HE01 that later took that same cpu to 5ghz.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Well how did you think he came up with the name MEGA MAN?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No seriously, Mega Man is actually a nice dude but instead of telling people they are wrong it would be better for him to listen or look at what people are actually meaning on the subject on what they are talking about.
> 
> But mostly with him and sadly with some other people in an particular thread its the same story and to discus with them is impossible simply because they are so full of them self and the first thing they say is ''NO YOU ARE WRONG''
> 
> Heck one time i spoke to some guy who had problems and i gave him some advice and it helped him, later on i had some problems myself and he had some excellent advises.
> What i mean is that's the way to discuss on forums instead of cutting each other throats but some people sadly have an enormous ego and an metal plate in front of their face.


..........................................
really ???
Mega Man aka Rockman
i came up with it as it was my fav game growing up.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Really? Linus Sebastian.... yet again you make fun of people who DO some research about water cooling and such stuff...
> 
> are you really that insecure that you have to make fun of people to make yourself feel better? or is it you enormous EGO that stands in your way to understand what i am trying to say?
> 
> either way both are not really helping people.
> 
> And yes i like YouTube because you can actually see what the person is doing and see what he gets, but then again you know it all better,even than an guy that builds and sells PC's all over the world with hardware that we can only dream of for years now.
> 
> yet again i don't see any comparison to an h100i, all i see is incoherent thoughts and lousy reviews from that guy so NO Linus is not to be trusted.
> 
> But then again that cooler performs terrible with the stock fans that come included with it so for additional good cooling you need 3rd party fans for it to perform even NEAR the h100i and i am running stock fans.
> 
> Come with some better proof than this utter unreliable links with not ONE review of that cooler.


and let me quote myself....
ill paraphrase..... i do not like youtube reviewers.....

i did include one of the best, if not the best water cooling reviewers in the market. martinsliquidlab however.... you didnt look at the link. he does compare the h100i very very specifically to the h220....


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The R4 wasn't any better. It throttled with everything at out of the box settings


As for the rev4, Did you disable APM, because right when I got the rev4(from the rev3) I initially thought the same thing, but it turned out to be APM.

As for the rev3, Are you absolutely MB warpage caused by excessive head alone and poor motherboard support combined heavy CPU cooler did not play any factor?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Can I join in now or will I get erased again?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The UD3 is junk. As a former R3 and R4 owner I have spent the money and can say that.
> 
> Look at this pic. The is a UD3 with a Thermalright HR-09U Type 2 VRM cooler installed. It is a heat pipe type that is tall enough to catch the air stream going out the case exhaust fan.
> Plus there were plenty of case fans. That was not good enough.
> 
> Look at the I/O panel. Notice the misalignment cause by the warped motherboard.
> 
> This damage was caused by running an 8350 at 4.5 ghz with a vcore +0.025v over stock, whatever that is. Something like 1.44v.
> 
> 
> The R4 wasn't any better. It throttled with everything at out of the box settings. And that was with the same Silverstone HE01 that later took that same cpu to 5ghz.


And you having actual experience with the board have every right to express your thoughts and findings on them. Megaman not so much.

I am actually even more disappointed that the rev4 board is not able to support the 8350. And it worries me, with revised cooling and claimed revised vrm's it is still throttling.

I put together FX 6300 system for my dad. I thought he bought a Crosshair V but it turned out to be a IV. That board that unofficially supports his CPU is way more robust than my UD3 in the VRM cooling area.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> Did you disable APM, because right when I got the rev4 I initially thought the same thing, but it turned out to be APM.
> 
> Are you absolutely MB warpage caused by excessive head alone and poor motherboard support combined heavy CPU cooler did not play any factor?


My case does not have poor flow by any stretch of the meaning. At stock speeds at full load I had throttling. Like I said to megaman go back 250 pages or so in this thread. Many pictures were posted. This is not something made up.

Even with a forged copper heatsink BOLTED to the board I had throttling caused by the VRM'S. It required the fan over top of the heatsink to stop the throttling.

I intend to see if the corrections I made to the board will allow clocking above 4.5ghz being even the stock 4.0ghz caused throttling initially.


----------



## Pudfark

Here is the history of my UD3 rev 1.1 I bought it in December of 2011 and put an aircooled HSF on an overclocked, 3.8ghz AMD 955. All was well and good for one year, until I swapped the 955 for a 8350 and a
H100i on it. I started overclocking the 8350 slowly in increments and got it up to 4.9 briefly. Then lowered the clock for daily use to 4.8 and a few weeks later...saw my temps beginning to rise and occasional shutdowns BSD's....then I started reading/asking questions here. When the "Oz-inator" reported board warping from overheated VRMs...I looked closely at my board and damn, I had the same problem.

I could not fix the problem....and figured out pretty quick...that with the liquid cool H100i, I had contributed to the problem, because no or little air was being circulated on the VRMs.....I stock clocked the 8350 and began to search for a more "robust" MB....The SaberKitty was recommended and when I saw how it was constructed? I had to have one. I bought the Asus board in May and it's built like a brick outhouse. I have fans on both sides of the board on the VRM's. An Antec spot fan on the front VRM heatsinks and a old 80mm fan on the back of the VRM's. Life is good and I feel I could get to 5ghz easily. My daily clock is 4.4ghz.

The H100i was replaced by me with a H110, both are great coolers. The H100i is in the wifes rig, along with the 955.
It is my humble opinion based upon my own experience and other's reported here that the UD3 boards, with heavily overclocked 8 core processors will warp if additional "aggressive" VRM cooling is not applied/modded on to the board. That's just my opinion and I hope that it does not offend anybody here.

I have been a "GigaFan" for many years and really like the product. I couldn't get a UD5 board when my UD3 had to be replaced...hence, Asus. I just believe....if you're gonna push an 8 core AMD....ya need a UD5 or UD7.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ..........................................
> really ???
> Mega Man aka Rockman
> i came up with it as it was my fav game growing up.....
> and let me quote myself....
> ill paraphrase..... i do not like youtube reviewers.....
> 
> i did include one of the best, if not the best water cooling reviewers in the market. martinsliquidlab however.... you didnt look at the link. he does compare the h100i very very specifically to the h220....


Okay, honestly man

this review is from march 12 2013... That was before they solved their issues with the pump, fans and Corsair Link.

And really 60DB? i have it running in push/pull and i don't get even get that high DB.

i agree that its an good cooler but its not better than the h100i.

And to be honest there is only ONE guy that i follow on YouTube and that is Daniel from Singularity computers, he knows so much about water cooling and components and he explains it with such a passion and great detail that it can help some people out for choosing water cooling components and other stuff.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> My case does not have poor flow by any stretch of the meaning. At stock speeds at full load I had throttling. Like I said to megaman go back 250 pages or so in this thread. Many pictures were posted. This is not something made up.
> 
> Even with a forged copper heatsink BOLTED to the board I had throttling caused by the VRM'S. It required the fan over top of the heatsink to stop the throttling.
> 
> I intend to see if the corrections I made to the board will allow clocking above 4.5ghz being even the stock 4.0ghz caused throttling initially.


I should have been more specific because I was asking questions about two separate boards... I'll go back and correct the reply.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I should have been more specific because I was asking questions about two separate boards... I'll go back and correct the reply.


It's not you man. You are fine


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> i agree that its an good cooler but its not better than the h100i.


While that may be your opinoin, facts disagree. The h220 pretty much beats the h100i across the board.
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/swiftech-h220_5.html#sect1


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> As for the rev4, Did you disable APM, because right when I got the rev4(from the rev3) I initially thought the same thing, but it turned out to be APM.
> 
> As for the rev3, Are you absolutely MB warpage caused by excessive head alone and poor motherboard support combined heavy CPU cooler did not play any factor?


Like I said, it was straight out of the box. That was July and now I don't know what APM is.

As for the R3, it most definitely was excessive heat. Poor motherboard support? This is a Silverstone case and all 3 motherboards I have put in it have fit perfectly, except for the warped one.

The 1st cpu cooler was an Arctic Cooling A30. That is a single tower similar to the CM 212. Not heavy. The 2nd one is a Silverstone HE01, which this MSI 990FXA GD80 board supports just fine.

I will also say that this case currently has 4-120mm intake case fans and no case exhaust fans. It also has no fans on the VRMs or anywhere else. It used to have a 110cfm case exhaust fan right next to the VRMs with the UD3. Those VRMs got airflow. Look at the pics of my sig rig. The one with the arrows shows what the UD3 had.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you ever hear of the swiftech h220? this is the new version ( thanks to the patent trolls, astech ( spelling ) )
> 
> and the h220 blows any h*** product ( h100,h100i ect ) out of the water.
> 
> lastly
> i am not spreading any fud around, but i would be willing to bet the warping was user error and *you* didnt cool the vrms like you need to, i can warp any board by not paying attention to VRM temps and just going all out.
> 
> anyone experienced with 83xx ocing knows no matter what board you get you start getting a decent oc or more, you need to cool the vrms, if you dont, they will get to hot/ explode or warp your board. bud that would be *YOUR or anyone elses* fault that attempts it, i have a revb3 ud7 and it works just fine, as i said i know SEVERAL ppl including the poster above ( which just so happens to be random happenstance ) that can get good ocs without issue on the ud3.
> the first time you said "my board warped because it got too hot " i knew what had happened.
> as for the "multitudes of people with this same issue", i am sure they were also "cooling" their vrms because
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you have shown ZERO proof that it was the boards fault.... ZERO
> 
> heck i am tempted to goto microcenter, buy a ud3 rev3, put it to 5ghz and run prime for a week with my ram @ 2400, cpu/nb @ 2600 ( 8 gb sticks which will put much more stress on the imc and thus more heat/ more power needed on the imc ) and ht oced just for the extra heat generated. just to show you how wrong you are the ud3 is very capable if you take the proper precautions.
> 
> you think ppl who oc 7970 cards just go untill it blows???? no one of the first thing we will tell you is watch VRM temps, now i will give you gigabyte did not include a vrm sensor, among may other sensors they should of, but seriously?? what did you expect? that the vrms will stay room temp cool?
> 
> am i saying that gigabytes board this go is good..... no... but they are not all as bad as you make them out to be.... not by along shot.
> 
> as for hurr. well. you keep switching, first you said h100 is amazing awesomesauce, then you switch to it is crap, now it is back to amazing.......... which is it? if oyu want i can go through the 83xx club and bring up quotes.
> 
> the best AIO cooler is the h220 bar none ( including the new h220 rebrand by CM )
> 
> as for my loop i think it does great considering my ht volts, cpu/nb volts and a darn good OC


*heck i am tempted to goto microcenter, buy a ud3 rev3, put it to 5ghz and run prime for a week with my ram @ 2400, cpu/nb @ 2600 ( 8 gb sticks which will put much more stress on the imc and thus more heat/ more power needed on the imc ) and ht oced just for the extra heat generated. just to show you how wrong you are the ud3 is very capable if you take the proper precautions.*

I'm willing to bet. Go to Microcenter, Buy that UD3 rev 3, with that 8350, Together with a 2400 RAM, CPU-NB at 2600, and overclock that HT. You will FAIL!!

Again, YOU WILL FAIL!!! Unless you get a GOLDEN CHIP that can run at 5+GHz at 1.400 Volts MAX! And replace all the cooling components of the Board, VRM, NB, SB, with waterblocks, (wonder if you can find them anyway!







) but will also devoid your claims that VRM heating is caused by USER ERROR, YOU SIMPLY CAN'T!!

That's how arrogant I am about the fact that the UD3 rev3 can't take you that far!!!

I know you believe so much in your self that you can't take any words from people with experiences with the board.

Why don't you just listen to the fact that a huge number of people with the same issues on the Motherboard. Specifically, the VRM's.

But why am I even wondering? This man will just prove you wrong by pointing you to a statement you never even made!!!

And this is the same man that said, *1 Volt + 1 Amp = 1 WATT!!*

*And this, so lets draw a little diagram

power in (hot) to light to switch to neutral

now i would NEVER wire a circuit like this but for my point it works
there is voltage on ANYTHING to the left of the switch if the switch is open correct? this is as it is the "hot" side

yet NO HEAT is created why..... i thought you said voltage makes heat.... o wait it does not current makes heat. so when you turn the switch on ...... the light starts to get warm.... over time even the connections and wiring will.*

The MAN was taught by a USELESS counting teacher!
And the MAN expects his circuit to run without even powering it!

But that would be taking things too far. Let's get back to the issue.

UD5s has this these VRMs am I right?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/3890





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://cdn.overclock.net/0/0b/0bade836_imageview.jpeg



UD7s has these?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/t/1086462/990fxa-ud7-review-analysis-ripple-testing-benchmarks



UD3 rev 3?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.brightsideofnews.com/print/2012/12/31/gigabyte-ends-the-year-with-a-bang-kills-amd-fx-8350-cpu.aspx



Yep, those are smaller MosFETs. They are either less or more than half as powerful as the ones used with UD5s and UD7s albeit being stacked as 2 MosFETs per Phase. Good Idea?
YES.
You can stack MosFETs to be get more POWER or equal those bigger and more expensive ones.
The BAD thing is this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Using a couple of less powerful MosFETs will also produce the same amount if not more HEAT than those using bigger components. Yet, they are being cooled by a Heatsink no more than 2mm thick at the base! With Push-pin locks that cannot even put enough pressure to the Thermal Pad!!



Now tell us how thick or what is the actual Volume of the heatsink they use on your UD7 and UD5s?
Even a fan on that heatsink will not greatly help on OC'ing the board. You can try touching the back of your PCBs for those who have. They are still getting way too hot to touch am I right? So airflow will not aid things with the Board!! A better heatsink will do. adding a heatsink at the back will also be of great help IMO.

But still, another problem with the board will be the Voltage spikes at load. A system or a CPU run with the UD3 rev3 will be always hotter at lesser clocks than those being run with better MOBOs!

So, if you are strong enough to prove things on our (UD3 rev3 owners) part, that we are the ones wrong about the board, PUT YOUR MONEY WHERE YOUR MOUTH IS!!


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Like I said, it was straight out of the box. That was July and now I don't know what APM is.


yes, out of the box the rev4 throttles. mine seemed to bounce down to 2.9ghz every 20 seconds or so...

I don't know if this is a bug or by design - trying to keep the CPU down to 125watt TDP

I came in here a little upset and stated the same thing as you. My stock rev4 is throttling just like the rev3. I was advised by another forum member to disable APM, and the problem was gone.

I seriously think that my throttling on the rev3, sock config, may have also been APM - which is a setting in BIOS of the rev3 lacks.

I'm definitely not saying the rev3 is not without its heat related throttling, because that is clearly not what the evidence suggests and as others have stated, there is a reason for the VRM redesign in the ver4.

I later figured out how to improve the cold boot, and now the board is prefect for me.

Some make the UD3 sound like a Ford 72 Pinto that is going to explode if you bump it the wrong way.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Oh I would love to see his money where his mouth is... The only problem it's been documented very well what it entails to fix the issues.

It's not hard to fake at all hence my statement that he will never convince me otherwise. I've actually been there done that. I also documented what I found and what I fixed. Unlike him, that is just spouting what he thinks. It would be super easy for him to claim that his works fine while actually employing my fixes.

I didn't realize that this would become a pissing match between people who think they know everything and people who have gone the extra mile to be sure nobody has the problems.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> yes, out of the box the rev4 throttles. mine seemed to bounce down to 2.9ghz every 20 seconds or so...
> 
> I don't know if this is a bug or by design - trying to keep the CPU down to 125watt TDP
> 
> I came in here a little upset and stated the same thing as you. My stock rev4 is throttling just like the rev3. I was advised by another forum member to disable APM, and the problem was gone.
> 
> I seriously think that my throttling on the rev3, sock config, may have also been APM - which is a setting in BIOS of the rev3 lacks.
> 
> I'm definitely not saying the rev3 is not without its heat related throttling, because that is clearly not what the evidence suggests and as others have stated, there is a reason for the VRM redesign in the ver4.
> 
> I later figured out how to improve the cold boot, and now the board is prefect for me.
> 
> Some make the UD3 sound like a Ford 72 Pinto that is going to explode if you bump it the wrong way.


I'm not too sure about APM but I think I have used a BIOS with the APM feature on mine. FDc or FBd I'm not too sure. But I never experience what they have experienced "throttling" at stock. At 4.5 and +0.000 CPU Core, +0.100 CPU-NB, 250 FSB, Ultra LLC, the thing is just solid. Though the VRMs are hot to touch. I'm glad I never have Warping on the board yet to be honest. Also count out the Airflow issue on the other users. I got 6 100 CFM fans in my CM Storm Scout 2 without any filters. Lots of air. But never enough to cool things down on the Board. That's the reason why I backed down on my clocks. Until I can find a way to cut a Copper Block to fit the VRMs, (that's an inch thick Copper block that I will shape to fit the area, stamp an old Aluminum CPU cooler on top of it to give a Dissipation Area way larger than the stock heatsink, add a 80mm fan to further things up). A Dremel is on the way to help me with that.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> yes, out of the box the rev4 throttles. mine seemed to bounce down to 2.9ghz every 20 seconds or so...
> 
> I don't know if this is a bug or by design - trying to keep the CPU down to 125watt TDP
> 
> I came in here a little upset and stated the same thing as you. My stock rev4 is throttling just like the rev3. I was advised by another forum member to disable APM, and the problem was gone.
> 
> I seriously think that my throttling on the rev3, sock config, may have also been APM - which is a setting in BIOS of the rev3 lacks.
> 
> I'm definitely not saying the rev3 is not without its heat related throttling, because that is clearly not what the evidence suggests and as others have stated, there is a reason for the VRM redesign in the ver4.
> 
> I later figured out how to improve the cold boot, and now the board is prefect for me.
> 
> Some make the UD3 sound like a Ford 72 Pinto that is going to explode if you bump it the wrong way.


You would be wrong assuming APM was the cause of our throttling.

APM can be disabled via AMD overdrive. Yet the throttling still existed with APM disabled. The Rev 3 boards had "revised" vrm and lackluster cooling compared to the others.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Oh I hope he does. The thing is my findings and fixes are public knowledge there is nothing stopping him from using my fixes and he had no issues. Short of an hour long unedited video Which I'm sure you nor I will not watch in its entirety.

He is very bold to come in here with exactly zero experience with the UD3 Rev 3 and tell me I'm wrong and caused my own problems when he had no knowledge at all of what is going on.

Shall I start telling you that you could not do whatever do to user error?


----------



## mus1mus

Just an information, Asus use the same VRM stacking on their board. Less Powerful MosFETs being stacked per Phase. But they have better results due to their VRM Cooling way superior than GIGA's. On theory, Giga's 10-Phase VRM Design on UD3 Rev 3 is already on PAR with the High-end ASUS Boards, The Saberkitty and the Crosshair. Yet Asus can pull away with better results due to the fact that they understood rather implemented better cooling on those components. Even the M5A99 boards can be better choices than UD3s. If I only went that way







. But anyway, fixing the issue is the only thing I can do ATM.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> You would be wrong assuming APM was the cause of our throttling.
> 
> APM can be disabled via AMD overdrive. Yet the throttling still existed with APM disabled. The Rev 3 boards had "revised" vrm and lackluster cooling compared to the others.


I never did assume it was APM on yours. Its clearly VRM









It could have been heat throttling mine as well. Just to me the VRMs were not getting that hot to touch (at stock speed and especially undertvolted) which was a little puzzling. Never tried to disable via OD. My rev3 is gone and I don't miss it.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I never did assume it was APM on yours. Its clearly VRM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It could have been heat throttling mine as well. Just to me the VRMs were not getting that hot to touch (at stock speed and especially undertvolted) which was a little puzzling. Never tried to disable via OD. My rev3 is gone and I don't miss it.


Good for ya' mate. LOL

Anyway, I'm still hesitant purchasing another AM3+ 990FX board ATM. It might not be good if AMD rolls out a new chipset and CPU in the coming months. Especially since their development as a WHOLE have been exciting these past month. Might be that their new CPU is already on the final QA stages.














Purchasing a new board now might be pointless.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Good for ya' mate. LOL
> 
> Anyway, I'm still hesitant purchasing another AM3+ 990FX board ATM. It might not be good if AMD rolls out a new chipset and CPU in the coming months. Especially since their development as a WHOLE have been exciting these past month. Might be that their new CPU is already on the final QA stages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Purchasing a new board now might be pointless.


Im in that same boat. I could really use a UD7 or Sabertooth right now, but I think the best idea is to wait and see what AMD has in store for us in 2014. Lets hope they can excite us like their GPU's have been recently!


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> Im in that same boat. I could really use a UD7 or Sabertooth right now, but I think the best idea is to wait and see what AMD has in store for us in 2014. Lets hope they can excite us like their GPU's have been recently!


That makes 3 of us, as long as my UD3 doesn't fry that is.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> That makes 3 of us, as long as my UD3 doesn't fry that is.


I downclocked from 4.8 to 4.5 on my daily clock to keep it under control. LOL

4.8 takes +0.125 on the cores. 4.5 doesn't need any offset on the core. Temps were under 50 all the time.









Some leaked reports quoted AMD Engineers talking about surpassing Haswell Performance. If they are right and the claims were legit, good times await the RED followers!!


----------



## hurricane28

I downclocked from 5ghz to 4.6 with 1.440 volts and i stay under 50c in quiet mode, but if i set Corsair link to balanced i get even better temps









I did downclock because i was tired of the loud fan noise all the time and honestly i did not see an huge performance boost going from 5ghz to 4.6 in gaming.

And even other applications that i use doe not show an high performance boost its only in benchmarks when you see the difference.

I am curious what AMD comes up with


----------



## mus1mus

That's odd mate.

Mine would take a very huge step of performance from 4.7 to 4.8. At least larger than the steps from 4.5 - 4.6 and 4.6 to 4.7..









But, The last time I was able to run a 4.9, I was able to do a Cinebench single-core where the jump coming from 4.8 was way to big. 1.30 is the best of what I can do at 4.8. While that single test at 4.9, I was able to do a run scoring 1.4ish. That's huge! If only I can clock it for stable.


----------



## Mudball3

Hey guys,

I am putting a computer together for a coworker and have a couple of questions. This computer will be a Minecraft server while still playing other online games. Hence the 32GB of ram.

I am running the 990FXA-UD3 R4, FX 6300, and 32gb of G.Skill Sniper Gaming 1866 ram.

I have been able to get a clock of 4.4 Ghz at 1.45 Vcore. Max temps while running Intel Burn Test for approx. 2 hours was 55c. I tried 4.5 but was not able to get it stable at even 1.47 Vcore. This is my first time using a Gigabyte board. I am just wondering if I have the correct settings in the bios.

Also my ram is not recognized as 1866. It is showing up as 1333. What do I need to do to get it to 1866?


----------



## dmfree88

which rev of the board do you have? if its rev 1.x check out my guide in signature should help quite a bit. the newer revs have a few digi settings and a new uefi that might need tinkered as you get to higher clocks. Im sure others can chime in with whats useful. I have a few asus digi settings in my guide that might double for giga im not sure though.


----------



## Mudball3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> which rev of the board do you have? if its rev 1.x check out my guide in signature should help quite a bit. the newer revs have a few digi settings and a new uefi that might need tinkered as you get to higher clocks. Im sure others can chime in with whats useful. I have a few asus digi settings in my guide that might double for giga im not sure though.


I have rev 4 of the board.


----------



## hajnalka

I stop 4.85Ghz 8core 4850 rev 3 board all waterblock EKWB vrm northbridge and cpu. The temp ferrites go up 90C all board base in VRM and northbirdge too hot Rev 4 is best? no throttling vrm temp limit and northbridge?


----------



## hajnalka




----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mudball3*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I am putting a computer together for a coworker and have a couple of questions. This computer will be a Minecraft server while still playing other online games. Hence the 32GB of ram.
> 
> I am running the 990FXA-UD3 R4, FX 6300, and 32gb of G.Skill Sniper Gaming 1866 ram.
> 
> I have been able to get a clock of 4.4 Ghz at 1.45 Vcore. Max temps while running Intel Burn Test for approx. 2 hours was 55c. I tried 4.5 but was not able to get it stable at even 1.47 Vcore. This is my first time using a Gigabyte board. I am just wondering if I have the correct settings in the bios.
> 
> Also my ram is not recognized as 1866. It is showing up as 1333. What do I need to do to get it to 1866?


First off, Your RAM.

In the BIOS where you can find the adjustments for CPU Multiplier, and other Overclocking Features, On the bottom part of that page is the Memory Adjustments. There's a Memory Profile Tab where you can select Profile 1, Profile 2, and Disabled. Depending on your RAM, Profile 1 would likely be the setting to use to be able to run your RAMs at Rated Speed or X.M.P Profile. Disabled is default that would give you the SPD Speed of your RAM. That also depends on your RAM but, most will default to 1333Mhz.

You can also manually select a Multiplier for the RAM. 5.33,6.66,8,9.33, and so on.

Second, make sure you turn off the APM, Turbo Boost, C1E and other Power Saving Features, Restart the PC, before trying to OC.

Third, Try first OC'ing using just Multiplier. So FSB won't mess around your RAM Timing. FSB will most likely require some Math on your part to be able to come up with CPU-NB and HT Link Frequencies that won't make you Unstable, and a lot of tweaking on the Memory Timings to work, as well as Voltage adjustments on the CPU-NB and HT Link.

Those are true on my UD3 Rev 3 with almost the same UEFI BIOS as yours. If they don't work, Try capturing screens of your Bios and post it here. So a lot of other guys can help you as well.


----------



## mus1mus

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*






This is just an example of what we were telling the MAN about the board.









Full-On Waterblock, up to 4.85.

Now tell us if this includes the-so-called user error he was telling people?


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> I stop 4.85Ghz 8core 4850 rev 3 board all waterblock EKWB vrm northbridge and cpu. The temp ferrites go up 90C all board base in VRM and northbirdge too hot Rev 4 is best? no throttling vrm temp limit and northbridge?


I have one temp sensor on the NB and another temp sensor on the VRM on my REV 4.0 UD3

one will get 65 the other 55 after a long time on max load. I don't know how accurate because this is a $10 digital thing shipped Hong Kong. I don't know which is which but I assume the VRM is the higher value.

I have only run 4400mhz on my FX 8320 and typically only 4000mhz.

my case probably really has poor airflow compared to something modern.


----------



## Mega Man

you would be surprised how accurate they are, thermistors are very basic tech @ and cost next to nothing to make. simple way to tell put ice in a cup and fill with water, but thermister in it should be @ or around 32f/0c


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you would be surprised how accurate they are, thermistors are very basic tech @ and cost next to nothing to make. simple way to tell put ice in a cup and fill with water, but thermister in it should be @ or around 32f/0c


i do know they start at 26/27 from cold. My house is very constant 77 so that seems pretty close.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I have one temp sensor on the NB and another temp sensor on the VRM on my REV 4.0 UD3
> 
> one will get 65 the other 55 after a long time on max load. I don't know how accurate because this is a $10 digital thing shipped Hong Kong. I don't know which is which but I assume the VRM is the higher value.
> 
> I have only run 4400mhz on my FX 8320 and typically only 4000mhz.
> 
> my case probably really has poor airflow compared to something modern.


You can confirm which is which by removing one and isolating it from the system. Cover it with a paper towel to stop it from reading temps other than ambient. That way you will be able to point out which one reads the VRM and the NB.

10 HK$?? that would be too cheap to expect some accurate reading then.
10 US$ would probably give you semi accurate readings though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you would be surprised how accurate they are, thermistors are very basic tech @ and cost next to nothing to make. simple way to tell put ice in a cup and fill with water, but thermister in it should be @ or around 32f/0c


0 degrees Celsius on a glass filled with ICE and WATER ? You gotta be kidding me!









Although the claim would be true on cheapo stuff, don't generalize Thermistors to be inaccurate. As ACCURACY of their readings will depend on many other factors.
Circuitry - High end temperature sensors that use high precision Thermistors will give you more accurate readings - Cost more though.
Installation - To obtain accurate readings, proper installation should be done. Contact to the device would be as important as isolation from ambient and other things that could affect the readings. Thermal Gap would also point you to inaccurate readings.

Sad to say this but you cannot get an accuracy 95% on any temperature sensor without the proper installation other than getting an Infrared Gun.
But 5% of 60 Degrees is just 3 Degrees. TBH that will still give you enough idea on the temps you are reading anyway. Give or take 5 Degrees from what you are reading, and you'll have enough reason to believe them.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You can confirm which is which by removing one and isolating it from the system. Cover it with a paper towel to stop it from reading temps other than ambient. That way you will be able to point out which one reads the VRM and the NB.
> 
> 10 HK$?? that would be too cheap to expect some accurate reading then.
> 10 US$ would probably give you semi accurate readings though.
> Although the claim would be true on cheapo stuff, don't generalize Thermistors to be inaccurate. As ACCURACY of their readings will depend on many other factors.
> Circuitry - High end temperature sensors that use high precision Thermistors will give you more accurate readings - Cost more though.
> Installation - To obtain accurate readings, proper installation should be done. Contact to the device would be as important as isolation from ambient and other things that could affect the readings. Thermal Gap would also point you to inaccurate readings.
> 
> Sad to say this but you cannot get an accuracy 95% on any temperature sensor without the proper installation other than getting an Infrared Gun.
> But 5% of 60 Degrees is just 3 Degrees. TBH that will still give you enough idea on the temps you are reading anyway. Give or take 5 Degrees from what you are reading, and you'll have enough reason to believe them.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-5-25-Front-Panel-Digital-lcd-fan-Thermostat-cpu-SYS-Temperature-Temp-Display-/310782321686?pt=US_CPU_Fans_Heatsinks&hash=item485c11e416

i just need to open the case and look at the tags on the wires. I think I put CPU to VRM because its closer.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/PC-5-25-Front-Panel-Digital-lcd-fan-Thermostat-cpu-SYS-Temperature-Temp-Display-/310782321686?pt=US_CPU_Fans_Heatsinks&hash=item485c11e416
> 
> i just need to open the case and look at the tags on the wires.


TAGS! Why haven't anyone thought of that??









LOL


----------



## Mega Man

wow just saw that quote. wow is he wrong.

here is proof spending ... well 1 second on google.
*https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+calibrate+a+thermometer&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-beta*
this method of calibration has been used for a long time, are there more reliable ways***, yes, however as i said quick and easy .... also to mention quite accurate for what it is.

IR thermometers on the other hand are highly inaccurate esp on glossy surfaces, they prefer flat black, however anything not glossy works, as well as you dont accurately get a real temp you get a temp over an area but you get way way too much interference....
http://www.thermoworks.com/blog/2012/03/infrared-thermometry/
fixed the link !

*** that cost substantially more and ... well are not worth it to make sure you are within a tenth of a deg or better... {which also have its use, however not for what we are doing }

lastly i will clarify what i said i was stating how accurate cheap thermisters are.


----------



## bbond007

I bought the thing to fill up that drive bay. I did not have a cover because before the computer had two CDRoms, and I guess I lost or never had a cover for it. I'm not even sure I want one, but I did just buy this LG bluray reader.

I'm not so worried if this thing is 100% accurate, it just gives me an idea if I'm in danger.


----------



## istudy92

So question,

I got UD3 R3, I was thinking of getting a 8350..for it..BUT iv had the 8350 before and returned it cause...my VRM was crazy hot at 4.2 OC sad...so kept my 4300.
Anyways the moral of this statement is...well..u guys think i should get an 8350..OC it again something more aggressive...lets say 4.4..4.5 for a few weeks..to forcefully warp my board so I could get a nice looking R4 Ud-3?
does this sound legit? lol
i mean iv gotten tips to put wires and stuff for vrm or metal heat dissipation stuff but..ah..why not use up my warranty?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> So question,
> 
> I got UD3 R3, I was thinking of getting a 8350..for it..BUT iv had the 8350 before and returned it cause...my VRM was crazy hot at 4.2 OC sad...so kept my 4300.
> Anyways the moral of this statement is...well..u guys think i should get an 8350..OC it again something more aggressive...lets say 4.4..4.5 for a few weeks..to forcefully warp my board so I could get a nice looking R4 Ud-3?
> does this sound legit? lol
> i mean iv gotten tips to put wires and stuff for vrm or metal heat dissipation stuff but..ah..why not use up my warranty?


If they will give you back a board that will be better.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> So question,
> 
> I got UD3 R3, I was thinking of getting a 8350..for it..BUT iv had the 8350 before and returned it cause...my VRM was crazy hot at 4.2 OC sad...so kept my 4300.
> Anyways the moral of this statement is...well..u guys think i should get an 8350..OC it again something more aggressive...lets say 4.4..4.5 for a few weeks..to forcefully warp my board so I could get a nice looking R4 Ud-3?
> does this sound legit? lol
> i mean iv gotten tips to put wires and stuff for vrm or metal heat dissipation stuff but..ah..why not use up my warranty?


i certainly wouldnt say legit but it sounds like you could attempt it. its possible they would just send you another r3 though. the more you burn the more likely they will eventually send u a good one haha.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> i certainly wouldnt say legit but it sounds like you could attempt it. its possible they would just send you another r3 though. the more you burn the more likely they will eventually send u a good one haha.


Challange accepted I will update when I get my xxxx


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Challange accepted I will update when I get my xxxx


DO NOT do this. They will NOT ship you any other revision than what you have.

We have been through this before guys. Only one member has ever gotten a Rev. 4 back and that seems to have be an accident because that board was a dud, I'm not sure if his came new still wrapped but if it didn't I'm willing to bet he got shipped a board that was RMA'd. If you want proof, just go ask Gigabyte, they specifically state that they do not do revision upgrades for RMAs.

EDIT: Oh, and that guy who got a Rev. 4 back was told he was getting HIS Rev. 3 back, so something went wrong on their end.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> DO NOT do this. They will NOT ship you any other revision than what you have.
> 
> We have been through this before guys. Only one member has ever gotten a Rev. 4 back and that seems to have be an accident because that board was a dud, I'm not sure if his came new still wrapped but if it didn't I'm willing to bet he got shipped a board that was RMA'd. If you want proof, just go ask Gigabyte, they specifically state that they do not do revision upgrades for RMAs.
> 
> EDIT: Oh, and that guy who got a Rev. 4 back was told he was getting HIS Rev. 3 back, so something went wrong on their end.


As a side note, It wasn't a dud as much as the bios is screwy (as with all the UEFI giga revs).

Its a really solid board otherwise.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> DO NOT do this. They will NOT ship you any other revision than what you have.
> 
> We have been through this before guys. Only one member has ever gotten a Rev. 4 back and that seems to have be an accident because that board was a dud, I'm not sure if his came new still wrapped but if it didn't I'm willing to bet he got shipped a board that was RMA'd. If you want proof, just go ask Gigabyte, they specifically state that they do not do revision upgrades for RMAs.
> 
> EDIT: Oh, and that guy who got a Rev. 4 back was told he was getting HIS Rev. 3 back, so something went wrong on their end.


REALLY?!!?!
ffs
Wait but could they technically..like..run outa Rev.3 by now since all they produce is Rev.4??
or am I wrong??


----------



## hornedfrog86

My Rev. 3 was a dud. Trying to get RMA now. Would not POST.


----------



## herericc

I have a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 Rev3 (Sure wish I had any other board ever)

I noticed my clock was bouncing between 4GHz and 3GHz while running prime95 so I did some research. Yay turns out the board is a piece of crap. I read about using aftermarket heatsinks on the VRM, and today I installed an Enzotech MST-88 full copper cooler.

The bouncing is still happening, which leads me to believe I'll have to install a fan to blow directly on the VRMs.

I'm just glad I realized what was happening before I warped the entire mobo.

The worst part is I'm only using a FX-6100. I can't imagine how bad the heat must be with a 8350.

Anyways, I'll be checking in here every now and then to see how other people are dealing with their crappy gigabyte boards.

Never buying another Gigabyte Motherboard,

Herericc


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> The bouncing is still happening, which leads me to believe I'll have to install a fan to blow directly on the VRMs.


Tip #2. CPU Load Throttling (Bios problem)
Get AMD Overdrive and Open and Enable Turbo Core Control then Push OK then Open and Disable Turbo Core Control then push OK then exit AMD Overdrive. (Application Power Management) *disabling the AMD Turbo Core Technology via AMD OverDrive utility will also disable APM)*

Now test see if it still throttles. If this works then is most likely a bios issue, and you'll have to do this each time you restart. If it doesn't work then possibly from temps.

from here:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1202751/amd-fx-cpu-throttling-fixes-please-sticky


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> I have a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 Rev3 (Sure wish I had any other board ever)
> 
> I noticed my clock was bouncing between 4GHz and 3GHz while running prime95 so I did some research. Yay turns out the board is a piece of crap. I read about using aftermarket heatsinks on the VRM, and today I installed an Enzotech MST-88 full copper cooler.
> 
> The bouncing is still happening, which leads me to believe I'll have to install a fan to blow directly on the VRMs.
> 
> I'm just glad I realized what was happening before I warped the entire mobo.
> 
> The worst part is I'm only using a FX-6100. I can't imagine how bad the heat must be with a 8350.
> 
> Anyways, I'll be checking in here every now and then to see how other people are dealing with their crappy gigabyte boards.
> 
> Never buying another Gigabyte Motherboard,
> 
> Herericc


Just an hunch, those ENZOTECH FULL COPPERS won't be enough in my opinion. Your stock CPU cooler will probably be worth modding for the VRMs. That's a heatpiped design which is faster with dissipating heat away from the VRMs. I have done it and it was way better than stock cooler on the VRMs.

Trouble is, when I cut the copper base on mine, I did cut it straight. Which turned out short by a couple millimeters to fit all the VRMs. But if I did cut it like this, indicated by the broken red lines, it could have covered every single VRM.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Removing the soldered fins is actually very easy using a heat gun. I removed mine using a stove.
Once you cut-off the copper base, everything will be easy as shaping the removed fins to fit the area and placing them back (fins, copper pipes, a couple will do. just make sure you can re-place them back to the base. Here's what it looked like on mine.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Quite a primitive way of fixing the issue but it worked.







No shame sharing the idea.









EDIT: UD5s and UD7s were fine. So don't stay away from Giga. Just stay away from UD3 Rev 3.








EDIT 2: A heatsink at the back (PCB side of the VRMs) will also do you good. Just make sure you have some thermal tape to avoid making any contact with those exposed Solder at the PCB)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hornedfrog86*
> 
> My Rev. 3 was a dud. Trying to get RMA now. Would not POST.


That's a PAIN mate!!!


----------



## herericc

I just set all my fans to medium RPM (antec 900) and am using the enzotech full copper cooler. It made it through 2 blend tests without throttling. Used to start doing it immediately.

Currently have the voltage offset to -.05V and the multi at 20 (4GHz) with LLC at medium. I've got all the power saving states turned on (in an attempt to foil the annoying double boot thing with no success).

I don't really want to go to the effort of pulling apart the old CPU heatsink so I'm gonna stick with the enzotech for now. I might look into buying a 40mm fan to hot glue straight to the mobo to blow on the heatsink later.

About to play some games of DOTA2 to see if it's stable, though the power saving states might kick in since dota only uses about 25% of my CPU at stock speeds.

I don't really subscribe to the necessity of running prime95 for like 24 hours to test an overclock since there isn't really any situation where I'd be stressing my CPU like that in real world use.

PS: I'm using a large air CPU cooler, so I don't have as much room for VRM heatsinks as some of you guys have (water cooled) so I'm trying to make it work with my limited space

http://imgur.com/12mYHDZ

PPS Just looked at your heatsink, that looks really wicked. Maybe I can grab the stock cooler from the Athlon X2 6000+ I have lying around and make a project of it. Just don't know if it'd fit given my space constraints.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> I just set all my fans to medium RPM (antec 900) and am using the enzotech full copper cooler. It made it through 2 blend tests without throttling. Used to start doing it immediately. Currently have the voltage offset to -.05V and the multi at 20 (4GHz). I've got all the power saving states turned on (in an attempt to foil the annoying double boot thing with no success). I don't really want to go to the effort of pulling apart the old CPU heatsink so I'm gonna stick with the enzotech for now. I might look into buying a 40mm fan to hot glue straight to the mobo to blow on the heatsink later.
> 
> About to play some games of DOTA2 to see if it's stable, though the power saving states might kick in since dota only uses about 25% of my CPU at stock speeds.
> 
> I don't really subscribe to the necessity of running prime95 for like 24 hours to test an overclock since there isn't really any situation where I'd be stressing my CPU like that in real world use.


If I can run at about 30 minutes of Aida64 Stability test, I'd call it stable TBH. Gaming wise, No issues just testing with Aida.

The Bad thing Aida won't give is the maximum temp your clock and Voltages might give you. Running some Apps Exceed maximum Aida64 temps by a huge margin. More than 15 degrees TBH.

Anyway stability depends on what you do with your computer so it would be subjective. Really

In real world, depending on your scope of activity, Prime Standards will always be higher than most. Except maybe Rendering and Folding. But like I said, it would be subjective. I'm not into those stuff, so I don't care if I can't Prime for hours. Browsing and Gaming using 4 out of 8 cores available at around 60% core duty won't hurt my temps. And if what I am doing doesn't cause my Computer to crash, I'd call it stable. I won't care what others say.





































Until I would be working on some heavy stuff, multi-threaded apps using all my cores, then that's probably my hint to run Prime so I know what my limit would be. Until then, I won't Prime.


----------



## mus1mus

I'm using a Big Silver Arrow too. And I can say it's would not restrict a VRM cooling up to 50mm high. The constraint would be the Base width. Chokes on one side, Caps on the other. Plus, that ATX-12V Supply port. Hard to squeeze in that area. But shaping the heatsink intentionally wouldn't hurt.









EDIT: your stock CPU fan will probably be the best that you can do now for the VRMs.


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> REALLY?!!?!
> ffs
> Wait but could they technically..like..run outa Rev.3 by now since all they produce is Rev.4??
> or am I wrong??


It's unlikely, they probably have a lot in stock. I'm might be wrong on this but they probably fix any RMA'd boards to use as replacements, so it would take a long while before they were out of Rev. 3 to send out for replacements.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I can confirm the enzotech needs a fan. I have one in my board and it only postponed throttling for about 20 minutes. With a fan on top of it I've had no throttling

I installed my H100i today. What a pain in the ass on an Antec Twelve hundred. If you have a Twelvehundred the H100i doesn't fit without "coaxing". I have my CPU at 4.7ghz right now. I'll test stability tonight. It was needing way more voltage than I liked for 4.8 and really putting out some heat. Backed off to 4.7 with 1.49v core I was seeing about 54c after 20 minutes of prime blend


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I can confirm the enzotech needs a fan. I have one in my board and it only postponed throttling for about 20 minutes. With a fan on top of it I've had no throttling
> 
> I installed my H100i today. What a pain in the ass on an Antec Twelve hundred. If you have a Twelvehundred the H100i doesn't fit without "coaxing". I have my CPU at 4.7ghz right now. I'll test stability tonight. It was needing way more voltage than I liked for 4.8 and really putting out some heat. Backed off to 4.7 with 1.49v core I was seeing about 54c after 20 minutes of prime blend


Way to go I should say!!! Nice progress considering what that board went through!!


----------



## dmfree88

no kidding crazy how its handling all because of a heatsink/fan (mostly the fan it seems). Sucks you cant push it further. Makes me feel better about my air cooler though







.


----------



## herericc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I can confirm the enzotech needs a fan. I have one in my board and it only postponed throttling for about 20 minutes. With a fan on top of it I've had no throttling


Would you mind describing/taking a pic of your enzotech cooling setup? I would like to add a fan but I'm not sure exactly how I should go about doing it.

Also pissed that I'm having to add like 40$ of stuff to this board for it to work the way it should out of the box...


----------



## dmfree88

theres many ways to do it. if you get the right sized screw it actually will screw into the heatsink directly and you only need one if its right and tight enough. Others use zip ties you can attach to your heatsink mounts or something (if possible/safe). I have even seen this done on a Crosshair board before. Push it to the limits







. Ghetto rig if needed







.

Its gonna be whatever works easier for you. Theres no good way to do it really unless you can find that perfect screw. If your using the enzotech heatsink you will just have to get tiny fan(s) and jerry-rig it in there somehow.

you can also use your stock heatsink fan from AMD if you upgraded your cooling. Or go with a cheap one online. I spent 5 bucks and got 4 fans from some dude on ebay ranging in sizes which gave me all sorts of options. No reason to go spendy if you got stock heatsink you can just go buy a screw from home depot + a ghetto fan


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That's odd mate.
> 
> Mine would take a very huge step of performance from 4.7 to 4.8. At least larger than the steps from 4.5 - 4.6 and 4.6 to 4.7..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, The last time I was able to run a 4.9, I was able to do a Cinebench single-core where the jump coming from 4.8 was way to big. 1.30 is the best of what I can do at 4.8. While that single test at 4.9, I was able to do a run scoring 1.4ish. That's huge! If only I can clock it for stable.


WOW this thread moves fast









I needed to reinstall my windows again because i had some weird thing going on sometimes but finally i am almost done.

I forgot how much work it actually is to reinstall it and put everything together to make it work right again.

Than i made an mistake of connecting all my drives when i installing windows so it created an boot.img on my other drive so i need to do it all again arggg.

but finally i am almost done









But on topic again hehe, yes of course i get better performance from 4.4 to 4.6 or even 5ghz but not in gaming because most games are more GPU intensive than CPU besides i can choose from CPU to GPU phys X in Nvidia control panel.

yes of course i score higher in benchmarks like 3Dmark11 and Cinebench etc. etc. but honestly in real live like playing games and such stuff you don't see that much of an difference.

And i like it more quiet because i am getting tired of running those tornado fans at balanced mode so that if its needed they ramp up quickly to dissipate more heat from the rad and become utterly loud in my opinion.

Also i replaced the TIM of the NB and may o may i don't know what stuff they apply at the factory but it looks like chewing gum lol and its very hard to remove too, very nasty stuff so to say but i replaced it anyway and get slightly better NB temps.

So, now i have a very quiet good performing system just the way i like it







but that can change pretty fast with me lol i keep tweaking


----------



## Hellsrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> Would you mind describing/taking a pic of your enzotech cooling setup? I would like to add a fan but I'm not sure exactly how I should go about doing it.
> 
> Also pissed that I'm having to add like 40$ of stuff to this board for it to work the way it should out of the box...


Well, seeing as he is offline right now I may as well chime in. Here is a photo of his setup from a little while back, so it may have changed.


It's similar to my setup but I'm not using an aftermarket heat spreader, I just kept the one that came with the board. Basically either strap a fan to the heat sink or hang it over the heat sink. I chose to hang my 80mm fan using a thick insulated copper wire.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsrage*
> 
> Well, seeing as he is offline right now I may as well chime in. Here is a photo of his setup from a little while back, so it may have changed.
> 
> 
> It's similar to my setup but I'm not using an aftermarket heat spreader, I just kept the one that came with the board. Basically either strap a fan to the heat sink or hang it over the heat sink. I chose to hang my 80mm fan using a thick insulated copper wire.


nice just frigin nice..i dont wana deal with such bull**** modding -____-
ima play my luck, have my board forcably warped and pray for rev 4!!


----------



## hornedfrog86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just an hunch, those ENZOTECH FULL COPPERS won't be enough in my opinion. Your stock CPU cooler will probably be worth modding for the VRMs. That's a heatpiped design which is faster with dissipating heat away from the VRMs. I have done it and it was way better than stock cooler on the VRMs.
> 
> Trouble is, when I cut the copper base on mine, I did cut it straight. Which turned out short by a couple millimeters to fit all the VRMs. But if I did cut it like this, indicated by the broken red lines, it could have covered every single VRM.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Removing the soldered fins is actually very easy using a heat gun. I removed mine using a stove.
> Once you cut-off the copper base, everything will be easy as shaping the removed fins to fit the area and placing them back (fins, copper pipes, a couple will do. just make sure you can re-place them back to the base. Here's what it looked like on mine.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quite a primitive way of fixing the issue but it worked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No shame sharing the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: UD5s and UD7s were fine. So don't stay away from Giga. Just stay away from UD3 Rev 3.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT 2: A heatsink at the back (PCB side of the VRMs) will also do you good. Just make sure you have some thermal tape to avoid making any contact with those exposed Solder at the PCB)
> That's a PAIN mate!!!


Yes, this is the first bad board from Gigabyte that I have ever bought, I have two going strong that are 6 years old.
I always went high end though.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well with the Rev 3 you either do what you can to fix the issue they sent exists or you deal with whatever damage the heat causes. Gigabyte will deny this is an issue so warp it at your own risk.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Keep in mind that you don't have to use zip ties. I frankly don't care about looks. Others have tastefully modded theirs. I just want it to work.


----------



## herericc

Yea i went to the local comp shop and bought a fan thats waaaay too big, so ill have to return that and go on ebay to find a smaller one. It isn't throttling in dota 2 @ 4GHz so maybe ill just leave it there for now.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

You won't see throttling until you do a full 8 core load. With most gaming you may never experience it but it's one of those things you should take the time to fix now so it doesn't become an issue. When the board warps like mine did it becomes even more fun to fix.


----------



## hurricane28

Hey, i did had the UD3 as well and i had no issues or maybe i sold it before any of those things happened, but could it be that its the cheap ass plastic holders on the heat sinks be the problem? Because wen i looked at my board they wobbled all over the place and my heat sink does not make contact it only touches it slightly.

I mean can't you use 4 screws and some washers and some nuts to tighten the heat sink better to the motherboard?

What are the temps when the throttles begin? I heard that the VRM and NB are rated for like 90c right?


----------



## herericc

I was doing prime with my 95W FX6100 and it was throttling @4GHz. Would bounce from 4 to 3. That was on the stock VRM Heatsink though.

Also i think the plastic/spring standoffs do the trick well enough, I don't think there has to be much pressure for optimal heat transfer on the thermal tape.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well she won't do 4.8ghz. I am VRM throttling again there. Now I'm going to back it off to 4.7 and see if it does it there too.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> I just set all my fans to medium RPM (antec 900) and am using the enzotech full copper cooler. It made it through 2 blend tests without throttling. Used to start doing it immediately.
> 
> Currently have the voltage offset to -.05V and the multi at 20 (4GHz) with LLC at medium. I've got all the power saving states turned on (in an attempt to foil the annoying double boot thing with no success).
> 
> I don't really want to go to the effort of pulling apart the old CPU heatsink so I'm gonna stick with the enzotech for now. I might look into buying a 40mm fan to hot glue straight to the mobo to blow on the heatsink later.
> 
> About to play some games of DOTA2 to see if it's stable, though the power saving states might kick in since dota only uses about 25% of my CPU at stock speeds.
> 
> I don't really subscribe to the necessity of running prime95 for like 24 hours to test an overclock since there isn't really any situation where I'd be stressing my CPU like that in real world use.
> 
> PS: I'm using a large air CPU cooler, so I don't have as much room for VRM heatsinks as some of you guys have (water cooled) so I'm trying to make it work with my limited space
> 
> http://imgur.com/12mYHDZ
> 
> PPS Just looked at your heatsink, that looks really wicked. Maybe I can grab the stock cooler from the Athlon X2 6000+ I have lying around and make a project of it. Just don't know if it'd fit given my space constraints.


not telling you what to do, feel free to do what you want., just know the risks, this guy has a really really well written explanation
http://www.overclock.net/t/990229/stress-testing-warning/0_100#post_13127125
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> WOW this thread moves fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I needed to reinstall my windows again because i had some weird thing going on sometimes but finally i am almost done.
> 
> I forgot how much work it actually is to reinstall it and put everything together to make it work right again.
> 
> Than i made an mistake of connecting all my drives when i installing windows so it created an boot.img on my other drive so i need to do it all again arggg.
> 
> but finally i am almost done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But on topic again hehe, yes of course i get better performance from 4.4 to 4.6 or even 5ghz but not in gaming because most games are more GPU intensive than CPU besides i can choose from CPU to GPU phys X in Nvidia control panel.
> 
> yes of course i score higher in benchmarks like 3Dmark11 and Cinebench etc. etc. but honestly in real live like playing games and such stuff you don't see that much of an difference.
> 
> And i like it more quiet because i am getting tired of running those tornado fans at balanced mode so that if its needed they ramp up quickly to dissipate more heat from the rad and become utterly loud in my opinion.
> 
> Also i replaced the TIM of the NB and may o may i don't know what stuff they apply at the factory but it looks like chewing gum lol and its very hard to remove too, very nasty stuff so to say but i replaced it anyway and get slightly better NB temps.
> 
> So, now i have a very quiet good performing system just the way i like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but that can change pretty fast with me lol i keep tweaking


ironically it applies to you too


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

It has been my experience that you can be 24 hour Prime stable and still not have a stable overclock. I've gone 24+ hours on Prime only to have Linpack fail 3 passes in. I've had Linpack pass all 100 passes only for Prime to fail in 20 minutes. I've had my machine pass both 24 hours of Prime and 100 Linpack passes only to BSOD the very second a Flash video was played.

The point is there is not one single program that can guarantee 100% stability and with overclocking OS corruption is a risk each and every one of us take. Others are more worried about it than some. That doesn't make their testing and idea of "stable" wrong. I'm more anal, I don't like reinstalling so anymore I do 8 hours of Prime, 100 passes on Linpack, play a bunch of Flash video and run a few 3DMark loops before I say I'm stable. Does that mean it is? Nope, but I've had good luck so far.


----------



## dmfree88

thats stable enough for me







i only do 10 passes of ibt and run p95 overnight (8-10 hours). Then i use it if it works good its good


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

So its been about 45 minutes so far at 4.7ghz at 1.500v and I haven't had any VRM throttling. I really hate trying to pick a voltage with this board. These increments blow on top of trying to calculate what LLC is going to do. 1.48 isn't enough voltage but I'm positive 1.5 is more than necessary.


----------



## dmfree88

Youd be surprised if u have to go any higher then 1.52 then there might be something else wrong. Pretty sure i was 1.48 boosting to 1.5 under load high llc for 4.7.. needed 1.52 to 1.54 for 4.8. My chip is not the greatest sounds like yours isnt much better







.

Awesome your boards handling with a somewhat simple modification. Wonder what will max first cooler or mobo


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not telling you what to do, feel free to do what you want., just know the risks, this guy has a really really well written explanation
> http://www.overclock.net/t/990229/stress-testing-warning/0_100#post_13127125
> ironically it applies to you too


What do you mean Mega?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> It has been my experience that you can be 24 hour Prime stable and still not have a stable overclock. I've gone 24+ hours on Prime only to have Linpack fail 3 passes in. I've had Linpack pass all 100 passes only for Prime to fail in 20 minutes. I've had my machine pass both 24 hours of Prime and 100 Linpack passes only to BSOD the very second a Flash video was played.
> 
> The point is there is not one single program that can guarantee 100% stability and with overclocking OS corruption is a risk each and every one of us take. Others are more worried about it than some. That doesn't make their testing and idea of "stable" wrong. I'm more anal, I don't like reinstalling so anymore I do 8 hours of Prime, 100 passes on Linpack, play a bunch of Flash video and run a few 3DMark loops before I say I'm stable. Does that mean it is? Nope, but I've had good luck so far.


Yes that was my experience too, last time when i was running prime for hours i was stable at all cores and got an very healthy temperature so i assumed it was stable, i played a few games and after i hour it crashed on me.

I know why tho, it was my RAM i was tweaking it and try to get it stable but prime is more for CPU testing and it does not test RAM much.

Than i started to use OCCT and after couple of minutes it crashed. I rebooted and upper the RAM timings a bit an some more volts and presto it was stable for over 2 hours don't know exactly how long tho.

After that i never had BSOD, crashes or whatsoever.

In my opinion its better to use OCCT for a little while and if everything is okay than run prime for couple of hours if its stable you're good.

Again, i discovered that stability testing is a matter of opinion and what you do with your system, i mean if is gaming the main thing what you do with your system you can test it though playing games as well to find stability because if you don't use your CPU at 100% load for hours on end i don't see any point of being 72 hours prime stable.

Also you probably never see such load on the CPU that prime puts it to anyway.


----------



## dmfree88

http://www.overclock.net/t/990229/stress-testing-warning/20#post_13127125

Megaman referenced this post earlier. Good reason to always be stable. How hard is it to leave p95 running overnight one time once you have your overclock set







. I dont think youd need 24 hours by any means but 8-10 hours is as simple as going to sleep with it on. Yea you dont expect your computer to ever do %100 stress load constantly. But thats not the purpose its to find the errors that cause the problems at any stress load.

OCCT is also just another form of IBT and does pretty well but doesn't come with AVX libs as far as i know. OCCT is pretty nice though i really like alot of there features including loading psu (gpu + cpu).

Yea it sucks because you have to clock lower to get p95 stable (Due to higher temps then daily/gaming use). But you can do like me turn your fan on super high then overclock it to its max for p95/ibt then turn the fans down low and you even out at a high overclock low noise that never sees those same temps while gaming.

Thats the main reason it sucks though is you have to be at lower temps (lower clocks) daily in order to be p95 stable and stay under temps. In the end its worth it to KNOW your comp is safe and in most cases wont have errors. Theres always other chances at stability issues, but for the most part if your overnight p95 stable and your memtest ram stable. 29/30 times your STABLE.

Alot of people will say well i never crash i never have any problems. This is not always true, every problem cant necessarily be seen. Could be as simple as a 1.5second faster boot and slightly snapier reaction times that you would never notice. As I have mentioned in the past errors can happen that your computer will compensate for. Your computer/processor is designed to recognize oddball answers and re-ask the question. Thats how it recovers from driver failures and how it fills up my eventviewer with VPN startup failures but still works fine. Many problems can go un-noticed. Even for years. There are also times that people are 100% stable or 99.9% (or devildog stable







) stable and just never fully tested. Doesn't mean you arent stable if you didn't take it that far just means you dont know for sure







or maybe your happy enough with what you got.

Either way its always best to use/do what you can to be sure your computers healthy. They say overclocking/stressing lessens the life of your cpu. I personally think if properly overclocked and stressed for proper stabilizing a fully stable cpu overclocked would outlast an unstable one at stock. Wish I could somehow test this


----------



## hurricane28

Oh that's quite alright because he lost its credibility some posts ago









Yes i understand what you say mate and you are right about that, i am now at stock speed and going to overclock again today and see what i can get stable.

I am not sure yet on what i want to overclock because i like the stock timings of my RAM, its feels a lot more snappy at stock 1866 8-9-9-24 than 2400 at 11-11-11-28.
Also it puts a lot more stress to the CPU having that high of an RAM speed and it can hurt the CPU OC a bit.
In games i did not notice any difference from stock to 2400 but i could be wrong tho.
What i did see is that when i transfer all my downloads to my other drive its much faster obviously but you need to sacrifice timings over speed.

This cooler is very good to be honest because the best i had was 5ghz with 1.600 vcore and after 30minutes prime it was just over 62c at full blast of all my 4 fans.

But when i opened my case or remove the dust filter cover on the front of my Corsair obsidian 650D temps dropped by 4c!
So that shows me how poor the airflow is in that particular case, even when i have one of the best 200mm fans i could find here it does not make any difference to temps because of its high restrictive mesh dust cover.

I strongly looking to get the 750D but still need to do more research about that case.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah i either got some bad ram or its just not agreeing with my cpu or mobo. I seem to have to loosen timings too much to get 1866 stable so it seems to work better at stock timings. Tried tightening timings and it just takes too many volts just to go to 1t. Kinda irritated with it but i havent had alot of time to really play with it though. Ram is not fun


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> yeah i either got some bad ram or its just not agreeing with my cpu or mobo. I seem to have to loosen timings too much to get 1866 stable so it seems to work better at stock timings. Tried tightening timings and it just takes too many volts just to go to 1t. Kinda irritated with it but i havent had alot of time to really play with it though. Ram is not fun


tell me about it, sorting through the stability problems with that Patriot Sapphire Blue combined with crucial was a lot of fun.... do you know how long it takes to go through one memory pass on memtest86+ with 32GB (4x8)? Nearly 2 hours....

When I finally decided to try the Crucial + Kingston, I left it run all day while I was at work, got home, seen that had only completed 3 full passes and thought something had gone wrong. In my mind I was expecting to see a larger number.


----------



## Obakemono

http://valid.canardpc.com/p2qbsy

Add me please.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obakemono*
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/p2qbsy
> 
> Add me please.


welcome my friend let me know if you have any questions !~


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well my VRM mods allow me to run at 4.7ghz without any throttling. 4.8ghz I experienced throttling. At least I know what is limit is now. I plan on replacing this board in the near future so no big deal.


----------



## fleks

After messing around with this board for around 12 hours, I've decided to RMA. No matter what I've tried, I could not get it to boot the hard-drive. I've tried re-installing windows, but when it gets time for the computer to restart to finish installation, it would boot as though there was no installation in progress. After trying to boot into the hard-drive after that mess, it would state that it cant find the boot files.

I've flashed the updated bios to the latest version, messed around with the bios in every possible way known to man. I've tried installing Windows from both CD & USB. I'm completely run dry and came to the conclusion that the board is a defect.

Any of you experience anything similar?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleks*
> 
> After messing around with this board for around 12 hours, I've decided to RMA. No matter what I've tried, I could not get it to boot the hard-drive. I've tried re-installing windows, but when it gets time for the computer to restart to finish installation, it would boot as though there was no installation in progress. After trying to boot into the hard-drive after that mess, it would state that it cant find the boot files.
> 
> I've flashed the updated bios to the latest version, messed around with the bios in every possible way known to man. I've tried installing Windows from both CD & USB. I'm completely run dry and came to the conclusion that the board is a defect.
> 
> Any of you experience anything similar?


First, You haven't provided enough info regarding the Problem. Mobo?? New Install? Clean Install?

Second, Installing Windows, have you been into the part where you have to format your drive? partitioning?

Not finding the boot files,

1. Can either be that your Hard Drive isn't included in the Boot device order in the BIOS.

2. Hard Drive defective.

You have to wish it was #1. Go to your Bios, and Go to your Boot Device Option. Select your Hard Drive as secondary boot device. Primary Should be your CD-rom ATM as you are still trying to Install an Operating System.

You should give more info on this thing so others can help you.









Edit: Also Check on Your SATA and Power connectors.


----------



## fleks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> First, You haven't provided enough info regarding the Problem. Mobo?? New Install? Clean Install?
> 
> Second, Installing Windows, have you been into the part where you have to format your drive? partitioning?
> 
> Not finding the boot files,
> 
> 1. Can either be that your Hard Drive isn't included in the Boot device order in the BIOS.
> 
> 2. Hard Drive defective.
> 
> You have to wish it was #1. Go to your Bios, and Go to your Boot Device Option. Select your Hard Drive as secondary boot device. Primary Should be your CD-rom ATM as you are still trying to Install an Operating System.
> 
> You should give more info on this thing so others can help you.


I've tried new/clean installs, and also tried to boot with a HDD that already had a functional Windows OS as stated above.
And yes, Ive been to the part where I can partition the drive. It partitions just fine, but never finishes installing windows when the installation reboots.

The DVD Drive and the HDD/SSD are both detected. Boot sequence: 1st: DVD Drive 2nd: HDD

My SSD & 2 HDD are all fully functional, I use them on my other computer just fine.

I've been up and down the bios changing every possible option, 12 hours is quite a lot of time spent in the bios lol.

Edit: I have checked sata, what do you mean check power cables?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleks*
> 
> I've tried new/clean installs, and also tried to boot with a HDD that already had a functional Windows OS as stated above.
> The DVD Drive and the HDD/SSD are both detected. Boot sequence: 1st: DVD Drive 2nd: HDD
> 
> My SSD & 2 HDD are all fully functional, I use them on my other computer just fine.
> 
> I've been up and down the bios changing every possible option, 12 hours is quite a lot of time spent in the bios lol.


Well in my experience, Windows 7 Installation would run into BSOD if things aren't written correctly on Install.

Bad MOBO would also give you BSOD.

RAM Timings and OC'ing would also prevent Windows Installation from finishing.

Noting that you have spent 12 Hours to do a Windows installation, that may be enough to get around the heck done.

I happened to have stumbled into an Operating System (Windows 7) Installation where after the initial Install, Copying Files, Partitioning, and stuff, Windows Install will automatically restart my PC and Boot into the OS. But that would be prevented by the first Boot device being the CD or USB that's is still present in the system. Pretty much doing it on a Loop. I remove the CD or the flash drive for Windows Install to resume on it's own.

SATA POWER CABLES.. In some cases, having them detected isn't a guarantee they will work all the time. Sata Power and Sata Cables must be checked for loose locking or connections to the device.


----------



## fleks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well in my experience, Windows 7 Installation would run into BSOD if things aren't written correctly on Install.
> 
> Bad MOBO would also give you BSOD.
> 
> RAM Timings and OC'ing would also prevent Windows Installation from finishing.
> 
> Noting that you have spent 12 Hours to do a Windows installation, that may be enough to get around the heck done.
> 
> I happened to have stumbled into an Operating System (Windows 7) Installation where after the initial Install, Copying Files, Partitioning, and stuff, Windows Install will automatically restart my PC and Boot into the OS. But that would be prevented by the first Boot device being the CD or USB that's is still present in the system. Pretty much doing it on a Loop. I remove the CD or the flash drive for Windows Install to resume on it's own.
> 
> SATA POWER CABLES.. In some cases, having them detected isn't a guarantee they will work all the time. Sata Power and Sata Cables must be checked for loose locking or connections to the device.


I will try that when I get off work. Do you have any idea why it won't boot into a HDD/SSD that already has a fully functional Windows OS?
All I get is a black screen after the splash logo.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleks*
> 
> I will try that when I get off work. Do you have any idea why it won't boot into a HDD/SSD that already has a fully functional Windows OS?
> All I get is a black screen after the splash logo.


In Windows XP, as I have never tried swapping a drive on Windows 7, Windows Installation is dependent on the hardware. MOBO, CPU, Chipset. Not having the same chipsets, swapping drives with windows installation would require you to do a Repair on XP. Pretty much loading just the drivers for the chipset.

But I believe Windows 7 will also be the same.

Swapping Hard Drives especially boot devices or OS Drives will always require a new OS Installation because of the drivers for the chipset.


----------



## fleks

The Windows doesn't do the final install after its first initial reboot. After selecting the hard-drive to install the OS on, it copies all files and installs everything accordingly, shortly after its finished it is supposed to reboot and then continue the install.

In my situation, after the first initial reboot, it doesn't continue the rest of the install, just as though I never started the install process in the first place...

I hope that makes sense, because it doesn't to me lol.


----------



## fleks

Got it to work!! It was faulty ram sticks! Out of pure randomness I decided to change them out with backup ones that I had... And voila, all is good. Cpu running at 15c? Using cpu temp


----------



## Mega Man

nice congrats !!! but idle temp is not right as amd uses a set oc calculations to determine core tmeps, under 30-40c use socket temp and over use core, check out hwinfo64 you will love it !


----------



## istudy92

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011

can i use that for UD3? or do I need the other one 88mm one??0.0


----------



## dmfree88

thats not the right one i cant find it.. those probably arent good enough


----------



## miklkit

The best VRM cooler for the UD3 R3 is the Thermalright HR-09U type 2. It is hard to find but is still out there. Try looking at Xoxide.

It made a 5C difference on my UD3 after it was warped over the Enzotech MST-88. It is a heat pipe that sticks up well into the air stream and works even with big air coolers.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The best VRM cooler for the UD3 R3 is the Thermalright HR-09U type 2. It is hard to find but is still out there. Try looking at Xoxide.
> 
> It made a 5C difference on my UD3 after it was warped over the Enzotech MST-88. It is a heat pipe that sticks up well into the air stream and works even with big air coolers.


gezz i cant find anything!!!
=[


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Good day guyz. I upgraded my ud3 rev. 3.0 to rev. 4.0. A few changes from UEFI bios: at advance cpu core features, they've included APM. Should I disable APM and HPC when oc'ng? and another changes from Advance Voltage Settings: They included a Dynamic Vcore, Dynamic NB ang Dynamic DRAM. Im not sure if its also in increment or should I type in the exact voltage? I also notice a change in Vcore Loadline Calibration: options are Auto, Normal, Extreme, Medium, Low, Standard. I tried all these settings but, none have given me stable voltage...TIA


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> gezz i cant find anything!!!
> =[


I got mine from a shop in Silicon Valley. This place seems to have it.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_197&products_id=23204


----------



## zila

Fellas, I've got a 990FXA-UD5 Rev.1 board w/F12 bios. I have a 965BE installed in it and vdroop is really bad on it. Does anyone here have one of these with a FX-8320/8350 on it? Are you stable and able to overclock on it?

Do you guys think Gigabyte will come up with a bios that includes CPU LLC for this board?


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I got mine from a shop in Silicon Valley. This place seems to have it.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=54_197&products_id=23204


is that all I need?


----------



## dmfree88

I dont think they will. You just need to start at an extremely high vcore to compensate. I was able to oc my rev 1.1 to 4.8 without issues but it has llc. There was a rev1 owner in here that was able to oc to 4.7 i think but idle voltage was like 1.62 or something. Just have to try to compensate for the large droop


----------



## dmfree88

I dont think they will. You just need to start at an extremely high vcore to compensate. I was able to oc my rev 1.1 to 4.8 without issues but it has llc. There was a rev1 owner in here that was able to oc to 4.7 i think but idle voltage was like 1.62 or something. Just have to try to compensate for the large droop


----------



## zila

Okay, thanks. I appreciate the quick response.


----------



## OverThinkingit

Hey guys, began overclocking for the first time ever today, was wondering if someone could comment on my results so far. Pretty much did the basic stuff, only voltage I touched was V core.. Did have some throttling even with APM disabled.

Specs: 8350 cooled by h100i using the UD3 rev 4 board

Results with 10 minutes Prime (I know I need to do more time but was curious on these results so far):

Core speed: 4.65 ghz
Multiplier @ 23
FSB @ 202
Vcore idle: 1.4v, load:1.45v
Temps 56.6
What do you guys think? Are the temps too high for that voltage and an h100i?

Edit: Forgot to mention I used the Extreme profile for the LLC.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> is that all I need?


It depends on how you want to mount it. One guy used zip ties, some others cut the supplied mounts and glued them on.

I used no.4 nuts,bolts, and washers. I used nylock nuts so that the exact pressure could be applied as well as some no.6 plastic washers to ensure no metal to metal contact with anything on the motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> Hey guys, began overclocking for the first time ever today, was wondering if someone could comment on my results so far. Pretty much did the basic stuff, only voltage I touched was V core.. Did have some throttling even with APM disabled.
> 
> Specs: 8350 cooled by h100i using the UD3 rev 4 board
> 
> Results with 10 minutes Prime (I know I need to do more time but was curious on these results so far):
> 
> Core speed: 4.65 ghz
> Multiplier @ 23
> FSB @ 202
> Vcore idle: 1.4v, load:1.45v
> Temps 56.6
> What do you guys think? Are the temps too high for that voltage and an h100i?
> 
> Edit: Forgot to mention I used the Extreme profile for the LLC.


extreme llc tends to add too much heat and probably would help with your temps to use high or ultra ~


----------



## dmfree88

I agree with mega there your jumping .5 during load would be better to minimize that if possible. My guide in sig may help has some llc info. Your temps seem good though. 62 is the general max safe oc temp. To help with throttling you might need turbo core and apm enabled and set to same freq as cpu. Or try using ccc to disable turbo/apm sometimes this works better then using the bios. Make sure all power saving features are disabled. If all else fails maybe try adding a fan to the vrm


----------



## OverThinkingit

Thanks for the info guys. Nice guide dmfree, ill be sure to check it out.

Im pretty sure I didnt see a high or ultra setting for LLC. I believe the next setting might have been normal. Ill mess around and post back.


----------



## dmfree88

Ya let us know how it works out not a whole lot of rev 4 owners yet


----------



## OverThinkingit

I took a look at your guide. Is it normal for the voltage offset to go down when under load? I ask because the "extreme" setting for the LLC went from 1.4 to 1.45 under load but when I switched to the "medium" setting the offset went from 1.45 idle to 1.43 under load. Same thing for "normal" except a much bigger offset. Seems counter-intuitive.

Also, I'm not sure how to set the boost clock to the same frequency as the core clock. I could alter the ratio of the CPB (I guess using this is possible to do that ?) but It only gives me the option to disable or Auto the boost clock itself.

i disabled amd overdrive through ccc for now.


----------



## OverThinkingit

This taking 5-6 seconds to POST is also getting pretty annoying with all the resets im doing lol. I saw someone mention it in this thread, time to search.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> I took a look at your guide. Is it normal for the voltage offset to go down when under load? I ask because the "extreme" setting for the LLC went from 1.4 to 1.45 under load but when I switched to the "medium" setting the offset went from 1.45 idle to 1.43 under load. Same thing for "normal" except a much bigger offset. Seems counter-intuitive.
> 
> Also, I'm not sure how to set the boost clock to the same frequency as the core clock. I could alter the ratio of the CPB (I guess using this is possible to do that ?) but It only gives me the option to disable or Auto the boost clock itself.
> 
> i disabled amd overdrive through ccc for now.


Using my phone its hard to reply. But the least amount of offset is best. Vdroop and vboost both are ok. Sounds like medium is probably your best setting. If u cant set the boost clock manually then u would just want to find a way to disable it

With llc at medium you might need higher vcore to start since its not boosting but generally its better if the offset is less


----------



## istudy92

Hey im interested in getting this great deal

corsair h100 refurb
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-181-038&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=2&RandomID=31925678470120131102191753

do you think it would be a bad idea to get one, since it would only cool my CPU and not my mobo (since the one I have is a gemini II CM and the fan hits towards the whole mobo!)

ud3 rev3 is my mobo.

ps. I bought a 8320 so im progressing to see what will happen with temperatures and such


----------



## dmfree88

Its a decent deal im sure you could atleast push to 4.5 with a fan on the vrm. Ive said it many times before tho its certainly a temporary investment considering for 20 bucks more you could get an air cooler that will last a lifetime. Or 100 more for a cheap kit you can upgrade over time

For the price its worth it though. Depends on case room and cost. And opinion of course


----------



## ifyouseekayeU

Good day guyz. I upgraded my ud3 rev. 3.0 to rev. 4.0. A few changes from UEFI bios: at advance cpu core features, they've included APM. Should I disable APM and HPC when oc'ng? and another changes from Advance Voltage Settings: They included a Dynamic Vcore, Dynamic NB ang Dynamic DRAM. Im not sure if its also in increment or should I type in the exact voltage? I also notice a change in Vcore Loadline Calibration: options are Auto, Normal, Extreme, Medium, Low, Standard. I tried all these settings but, none have given me stable voltage...TIA

I forgot to add, theres no longer a high and ultra at VLC. Only just what I posted above. Im kinda wondering if I made the right choice buying a rev. 4.0.


----------



## MoStyles

Hey guys, I just upgraded my machine with a 990FXA-UD3 Rev.4 a few days ago and just started messing with overclocking a FX-8320. I'm new to the FX series, but have OC'ed the heck out of some Phenoms and athlon chips in the past but by no means an expert at overclocking. Here is what i'm working with right now to just get a taste of what this chip/mobo can do.

Turboisabled
multiplier @ 20
CPU @ 4ghz
14 - 17c idle
49 (max) load
vcore and everything else is @ auto
oh, and pushed the Ram profile to 1600 for rated ram speed

case fans
2x 140mm fans on top
6x 120mm front, side, and one on 212 Plus cooler
so I should more than adequate cooling
(also set 7950 CF to stock for OC testing)
*Everything else should be in profile

Anyway, I let catalyst do a auto overdrive on my cpu and it pushed it to 4.5 with out a problem and played BF3 for an hour to see how did. Temps where pushing just at 59c and was feeling the heat that everyone is talking about. Turned up the fans and wasn't too worried as everything was running fine.

I have since gone back in the BIOS and figured I could set a safe 4.4ghz OC turning off some of the other power saving modes with just the multiplier and some vcore bumps.

Prime95 failed right away on a few different vcore staying under 1.4volts (believe this is do to some of the power saving features throttling)

1st: question: should I push the vcore to 1.4 - 1.5 to test again or am I just pushing more than a FX-8320 is comfortable with? (I try to stay on the safe side)
2nd: What are the best setting to have enable and disabled on this board before I overclock?
3rd: Let me know if you guys want me to test any setting for you on a the newer rev.4 board

Thanks


----------



## ginger_nuts

What was your vcore whilst at 4.5Ghz?

Most of them auto overclock things are a little heavy on the voltage side of things.

By the sounds of it you should reach 4.5 manually rather easy.

Always OC in your BIOS. They are very robust these days.


----------



## dmfree88

yeah should really use the bios for most overclocking. My guide in sig can be helpful for simple overclocking although I dont have the uefi bios. Check the digi settings at the bottom for asus they might apply to newer giga boards (dont know for sure, let me know if they do







).

The only thing recommended to use AMD overdrive for is to disable APM/Turbo-core as sometimes this doesnt work correctly in the bios. this i believe only applies to rev 3 owners I think your bios has both apm and turbo core. both MUST be either disabled OR enabled at the same time (generally disabled). If your bios disables this correctly without causing throttling then overdrive IMO is useless.

You always want to go up one click at a time and make sure its stable through-out. Starting in the middle or towards the top will just cause headaches. Make sure your 100% stable stock with no throttling. Then push up slowly. Since you have an 8320 you can probably jump up to 4.0ghz and start there but make sure your stable before moving up slowly. Always start by disabling turbo core features + power saving features (few pictures in the guide).

LLC will also play a big role in overclocking. Must have this set to a proper setting before starting aswell. Understanding what LLC does and how to adjust it is important. Once LLC is set and you have everything else set to manual settings (auto can do bad things better to set to stock regular settings on every voltage if possible). The rest is easy.

Post thought:

Expect voltage walls. There are going to be some points you feel like you have too much but really you still dont have enough volts. You probably just need more. Vishera's eat volts. Don't be afraid to push it if you have good enough cooling.

2nd post thought:

Just noticed your using hyper 212. your max OC will probably be 4.5ghz at the MOST. Not recommended to exceed 62 degrees stay safe









Also I used the same cooler (mine was evo) on an 8350 and only got to 4.4ghz with an added case fan in pull. For some reason 8320 owners seem to see better results (or my chip sucks) but dont expect miracles







I ended up at 4.3ghz with one fan.


----------



## paulwarden2505

Hi Guys i am running the 8350 on my 990fxa ud7 at present its running 4.6ghz on 1.425v under a h80i cooler as it is being used for folding with 2 msi gtx 560 ti 448 gpus temp is showing as core=43c socket=53c room temp is 19c at moment using open hardware monitor for temps have LLC set to ultra high cpu set at 1.425v .I did try to oc with AMD overdrive but straight off it bumped voltage to 1.475v and temps really jumped to 55c per core will be playing around a bit more with settings when the present work units i am folding finish i have found folding picks up instabillitiy in my oc's so use it as a way to test things


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoStyles*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I just upgraded my machine with a 990FXA-UD3 Rev.4 a few days ago and just started messing with overclocking a FX-8320. I'm new to the FX series, but have OC'ed the heck out of some Phenoms and athlon chips in the past but by no means an expert at overclocking. Here is what i'm working with right now to just get a taste of what this chip/mobo can do.
> 
> Turboisabled
> multiplier @ 20
> CPU @ 4ghz
> 14 - 17c idle
> 49 (max) load
> vcore and everything else is @ auto
> oh, and pushed the Ram profile to 1600 for rated ram speed
> 
> case fans
> 2x 140mm fans on top
> 6x 120mm front, side, and one on 212 Plus cooler
> so I should more than adequate cooling
> (also set 7950 CF to stock for OC testing)
> *Everything else should be in profile
> 
> Anyway, I let catalyst do a auto overdrive on my cpu and it pushed it to 4.5 with out a problem and played BF3 for an hour to see how did. Temps where pushing just at 59c and was feeling the heat that everyone is talking about. Turned up the fans and wasn't too worried as everything was running fine.
> 
> I have since gone back in the BIOS and figured I could set a safe 4.4ghz OC turning off some of the other power saving modes with just the multiplier and some vcore bumps.
> 
> Prime95 failed right away on a few different vcore staying under 1.4volts (believe this is do to some of the power saving features throttling)
> 
> 1st: question: should I push the vcore to 1.4 - 1.5 to test again or am I just pushing more than a FX-8320 is comfortable with? (I try to stay on the safe side)
> 2nd: What are the best setting to have enable and disabled on this board before I overclock?
> 3rd: Let me know if you guys want me to test any setting for you on a the newer rev.4 board
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> yeah should really use the bios for most overclocking. My guide in sig can be helpful for simple overclocking although I dont have the uefi bios. Check the digi settings at the bottom for asus they might apply to newer giga boards (dont know for sure, let me know if they do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> The only thing recommended to use AMD overdrive for is to disable APM/Turbo-core as sometimes this doesnt work correctly in the bios. this i believe only applies to rev 3 owners I think your bios has both apm and turbo core. both MUST be either disabled OR enabled at the same time (generally disabled). If your bios disables this correctly without causing throttling then overdrive IMO is useless.
> 
> You always want to go up one click at a time and make sure its stable through-out. Starting in the middle or towards the top will just cause headaches. Make sure your 100% stable stock with no throttling. Then push up slowly. Since you have an 8320 you can probably jump up to 4.0ghz and start there but make sure your stable before moving up slowly. Always start by disabling turbo core features + power saving features (few pictures in the guide).
> 
> LLC will also play a big role in overclocking. Must have this set to a proper setting before starting aswell. Understanding what LLC does and how to adjust it is important. Once LLC is set and you have everything else set to manual settings (auto can do bad things better to set to stock regular settings on every voltage if possible). The rest is easy.
> 
> Post thought:
> 
> 
> Expect voltage walls. There are going to be some points you feel like you dont have enough volts. You probably just need more. Vishera's eat volts. Don't be afraid to push it if you have good enough cooling.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 2nd post thought:
> 
> Just noticed your using hyper 212. your max OC will probably be 4.5ghz at the MOST. Not recommended to exceed 62 degrees stay safe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I used the same cooler (mine was evo) on an 8350 and only got to 4.4ghz with an added case fan in pull. For some reason 8320 owners seem to see better results (or my chip sucks) but dont expect miracles
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up at 4.3ghz with one fan.


covered pretty much everything, but i will add i and sever others have dumped 1.7v through our chips, dont be afraid !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> Hi Guys i am running the 8350 on my 990fxa ud7 at present its running 4.6ghz on 1.425v under a h80i cooler as it is being used for folding with 2 msi gtx 560 ti 448 gpus temp is showing as core=43c socket=53c room temp is 19c at moment using open hardware monitor for temps have LLC set to ultra high cpu set at 1.425v .I did try to oc with AMD overdrive but straight off it bumped voltage to 1.475v and temps really jumped to 55c per core will be playing around a bit more with settings when the present work units i am folding finish i have found folding picks up instabillitiy in my oc's so use it as a way to test things


unless hwmonitor has been updated, i would recommend using hwinfo, your cpu only has 1 temp sensor, which will not be accurate till ~ 30-40c, use socket until at that temp let us know if you need anymore info


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paulwarden2505*
> 
> Hi Guys i am running the 8350 on my 990fxa ud7 at present its running 4.6ghz on 1.425v under a h80i cooler as it is being used for folding with 2 msi gtx 560 ti 448 gpus temp is showing as core=43c socket=53c room temp is 19c at moment using open hardware monitor for temps have LLC set to ultra high cpu set at 1.425v .I did try to oc with AMD overdrive but straight off it bumped voltage to 1.475v and temps really jumped to 55c per core will be playing around a bit more with settings when the present work units i am folding finish i have found folding picks up instabillitiy in my oc's so use it as a way to test things


Lots of ways to check for instabilities im not sure if folding is one of the most accurate though. Dont want to send back false answers to the cure for cancer anyways do we? lol

Use something like IBT AVX from the first page of this post under additional software:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club

or prime95 or OCCT. Any of these are free and will give you much better results. My guide in sig may be helpful aswell. You seem to be doing good for temps with that h80i.

Better to be stable while you fold so your more productive and find the correct answer
















Not a big fan of overdrive either always recommend bios tweaking. If you can, avoid overdrive at all costs







. Let us know how it works out


----------



## OverThinkingit

With APM disabled, throttling (4.65 to 1.4) begins after about the 6 minute test on p95. I'm wondering if its the VRM that is getting too hot? I have to double check when I get home.


----------



## fleks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice congrats !!! but idle temp is not right as amd uses a set oc calculations to determine core tmeps, under 30-40c use socket temp and over use core, check out hwinfo64 you will love it !


I've downloaded HWMonitor, HWiNFO64, CPU temp etc. At idle I'm at 13c and when playing Crysis 3 maxed out at 40c tops. I've re-pasted my CPU and re-seated the water cooler. Any other accurate software I should know about?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> With APM disabled, throttling (4.65 to 1.4) begins after about the 6 minute test on p95. I'm wondering if its the VRM that is getting too hot? I have to double check when I get home.


its possible if you dont have a temp gauge you can do the finger test. Touch it with your finger during load if it burns instantly then its way too hot. if its just hot but you can touch it then its not the vrm.

If it does burn when you touch then you should try installing a fan on the VRM and see if the throttling stops. Reports of throttling at stock with a 8350 on a UD3 Rev3 will completely stop with a fan on the VRM. Doing this also allows overclocking usually atleast to 4.5ghz (if you have a VRM problem) before the problems start again







. Generally this seems to be a rev3 problem though. Which rev do you have? should put your rig in your signature (with rev next to it since it makes a difference here







) by going to rig builder in top right corner. Make your rig, then go to your profile by clicking your name in the top right corner. Then scroll down to your signature to add your build. Very helpful








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fleks*
> 
> I've downloaded HWMonitor, HWiNFO64, CPU temp etc. At idle I'm at 13c and when playing Crysis 3 maxed out at 40c tops. I've re-pasted my CPU and re-seated the water cooler. Any other accurate software I should know about?


hwinfo64 is usually best. Idle temperatures are innacurate dont expect them to be correct on any software, they just arent reported correctly by the processor (has to do with the algorithm designed to calculate the temperature there is no diode just a algorithm thats only accurate under loads). Ive idled as low as 3 degrees while ambient is 28. After overclocking I idle around 16 degrees which is still wrong







. Only worry about load temps. Seems 40 degrees is super good. You should have plenty of room for overclocking (62 is general safe max for vishera). To help verify the temp is accurate check your socket temp, should read about 8-12 degrees higher then cpu temp (under loads).


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> . Which rev do you have? should put your rig in your signature (with rev next to it since it makes a difference here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) by going to rig builder in top right corner


Has to be a rev4 or a possibly a rev3 with beta bios, because rev3 bios does not let you disable APM...


----------



## dmfree88

oh yeah that beta bios of the rev3 has some major issues to. best to use the latest non-beta. As far as i know adding that apm feature seems to have caused more headaches. If you have trouble disabling turbo core/apm (BOTH MUST BE DISABLED OR ENABLED AT THE SAME TIME). Then use overdrive to disable turbo core it automatically disables APM and fixes the issue with some rev3 owners


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> oh yeah that beta bios of the rev3 has some major issues to. best to use the latest non-beta. As far as i know adding that apm feature seems to have caused more headaches. If you have trouble disabling turbo core/apm (BOTH MUST BE DISABLED OR ENABLED AT THE SAME TIME). Then use overdrive to disable turbo core it automatically disables APM and fixes the issue with some rev3 owners


Yeah, I have read that as well...

I have done some testing on my rev4 with APM on and off and the throttling actually did not one single game benchmark score at all... so yeah, I agree, I'd not use that BIOS and just use OD to disable it before running a CPU benchmark.

Its amazing they can make the BIOS work pretty well one the rev4, yet they can't fix the rev3. How much different could the hardware be? As a programmer, I know that disabling existing functionality is typically pretty much a no-brainer.


----------



## OverThinkingit

Yeah Rev 4, I did a quick rig builder for reference.

Ok so I did the finger burn test and while it wasnt instantly too hot to touch, I did have to remove my finger after about 5 seconds.

While monitoring hwinfo64, specifically PMbus VR, throttling begins each time at 112 degrees like clock work. Voltage rises, temperature falls a few degrees, clock speed hits 1.4 ghz for a moment. Temps rise again to 112 and the cycle starts again.

Next thing I will do is point a fan directly at it and re-test.

Edit: VR volatage rises when temp hits 112, not falls.


----------



## ebduncan

112 degrees C?

yikes that is hot.

MY rev 1.0 vrm doesn't go over 70c. Thats full load with a 1.525 vcore and 8320 @ 5ghz. I have a 80mm fan blowing down on them. Granted with out the fan the temps are stil under 80c.


----------



## OverThinkingit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> 112 degrees C?
> 
> yikes that is hot.
> 
> MY rev 1.0 vrm doesn't go over 70c. Thats full load with a 1.525 vcore and 8320 @ 5ghz. I have a 80mm fan blowing down on them. Granted with out the fan the temps are stil under 80c.


Wow, 50 degree difference is enormous. PMbus VR is the VRM, yes? I assume it is but want to make sure Im not reading the wrong temp.

So I removed my side panel and positioned a desk fan to hit the VRM directly. 10 minutes p95 and max temp was 107c with no throttling. Pretty insane how hot this gets, even with a fan directly on it.


----------



## dmfree88

i dont think theres a temp sensor on any other rev but rev4 for the vrm. Seems pretty hot though.. hopefully that fan helps. If it doesnt change the temps at all then that must be a temp for something else







. If it was that hot then it probably was just the calices on your fingers making you able to touch it for more then a couple seconds lol.


----------



## OverThinkingit

LOL When i saw 112c i said to myself "yeahhhh I probably shouldnt touch it"... But I had to do it for science!

But really I hovered my hand really close first to make sure it wasnt too hot, I didnt feel too much heat so I touched it.

Normal use (few hours of gaming) the VRM temp didnt pass 65 so it didnt trigger any throttling. I really dont think it will reach those high temps other than running p95.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> i dont think theres a temp sensor on any other rev but rev4 for the vrm. Seems pretty hot though.. hopefully that fan helps. If it doesnt change the temps at all then that must be a temp for something else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If it was that hot then it probably was just the calices on your fingers making you able to touch it for more then a couple seconds lol.


112 Degrees, if that is in Celcius, won't cause calices on your hand when touching the source for little while. It'll burn yes, but still not hot enough to cause you deep burns. But that's still too hot!! Component-wise, even if it wasn't the VRM temp, you should already be concerned. No MOBO component should hit that temps IMO.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> LOL When i saw 112c i said to myself "yeahhhh I probably shouldnt touch it"... But I had to do it for science!
> 
> But really I hovered my hand really close first to make sure it wasnt too hot, I didnt feel too much heat so I touched it.
> 
> Normal use (few hours of gaming) the VRM temp didnt pass 65 so it didnt trigger any throttling. I really dont think it will reach those high temps other than running p95.


That would really be concern for you if you value longevity of your components. Try to locate the source of that overly high temp. I'm having a hunch it's not the VRM. Your MOBO NB can hit that temps at high clocks. So it's worth checking it.

Even 65 Degrees Celcius in Gaming would already be high IMHO.

But there's also a chance the software is messed up. Try using other monitoring software just to verify those readings.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> i dont think theres a temp sensor on any other rev but rev4 for the vrm. Seems pretty hot though.. hopefully that fan helps. If it doesnt change the temps at all then that must be a temp for something else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If it was that hot then it probably was just the calices on your fingers making you able to touch it for more then a couple seconds lol.


112 Degrees, if that is in Celcius, won't cause calices on your hand when touching the source for little while. It'll burn yes, but still not hot enough to cause you deep burns. But that's still too hot!! Component-wise, even if it wasn't the VRM temp, you should already be concerned. No MOBO component should hit that temp IMO.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> LOL When i saw 112c i said to myself "yeahhhh I probably shouldnt touch it"... But I had to do it for science!
> 
> But really I hovered my hand really close first to make sure it wasnt too hot, I didnt feel too much heat so I touched it.
> 
> Normal use (few hours of gaming) the VRM temp didnt pass 65 so it didnt trigger any throttling. I really dont think it will reach those high temps other than running p95.


That would really be concern for you if you value longevity of your components. Try to locate the source of that overly high temp. I'm having a hunch it's not the VRM. Your MOBO NB can hit that temps at high clocks. So it's worth checking it.

Even 65 Degrees Celcius in Gaming would already be high IMHO.

But there's also a chance the software is messed up. Try using other monitoring software just to verify those readings.


----------



## OverThinkingit

Can you suggest another software program that might measure VRM temps?

Heres a screenshot


----------



## OverThinkingit

It would be great if someone else with a rev 4 ran a test to compare.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> It would be great if someone else with a rev 4 ran a test to compare.


I'm testing prime95 at 4420mhz and to do that I have to go + .12500v and medium LLC

cpuz says 1.44v - 1.452v

on test 11 and self-test passed now

My aftermarket sensors on NB and VRM say 65 and 63 respectively.

My CPU is cooking at 66.6

VR T1 & T2 say 114.0 (whatever those are)

no throttling.

This is as high as I can go with this 8320


----------



## OverThinkingit

Thanks for running the test.

Thats interesting, I just assumed VR meant voltage regulator but since you have an aftermarket sensor reading completely different temps then clearly that isnt the case.

Im surprised you didnt throttle. Do you have an aftermarket cooler/fan on the VRM?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I'm testing prime95 at 4420mhz and to do that I have to go + .12800v and medium LLC
> 
> cpuz says 1.44v - 1.452v
> 
> on test 11 and self-test passed now
> 
> My aftermarket sensors on NB and VRM say 65 and 63 respectively.
> 
> My CPU is cooking at 66.6
> 
> VR T1 & T2 say 114.0 (whatever those are)
> 
> no throttling.
> 
> This is as high as I can go with this 8320


What's with the +0.12800 Offset? Does the Rev. 4 offers finer offsets?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> Thanks for running the test.
> 
> Thats interesting, I just assumed VR meant voltage regulator but since you have an aftermarket sensor reading completely different temps then clearly that isnt the case.
> 
> Im surprised you didnt throttle. Do you have an aftermarket cooler/fan on the VRM?


Throttling can be caused by two (2) things:
1. Voltage (lack of)
2. Temperature (higher than threshold)

Also, take note of the aftermarket sensors. They are not attached to the VRM's and the NB's packages. So you could only assume they were higher. Nope, not assume. They would always be higher.

Use the fan that came off your CPU Heatsink. Strap it to your VRM heatsink. Will only do you good things.


----------



## OverThinkingit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Use the fan that came off your CPU Heatsink. Strap it to your VRM heatsink. Will only do you good things.


Thought about doing this, but how would I go about attaching the fan?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> Thought about doing this, but how would I go about attaching the fan?


Others have been doing this with whatever method they can think of. Some strap the fan using ZIP TIES. Some used solid wires.


----------



## OverThinkingit

Ha, i see, thanks.


----------



## dmfree88

Theres a couple screw sizes/thread patterns that can be screwed directly into the gap of the vrm. This is the easiest and cleanest looking way if you can find the right screw(may slightly damage heatsink but worth it to look more aesthetically pleasing). I hate the sound that stock fan makes myself would use any other fan if possible. Or hook it up to pwm and set to low rpm or ur ears will ache


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What's with the +0.12800 Offset? Does the Rev. 4 offers finer offsets?


+ 0.12500 sorry, typo


----------



## istudy92

So i finally got the 8320 and installed it last night, now these are my issues.

One it booted just fine and did prime 95 got to 70c on .1+volt 4.0 i know too much volt (I relized this on cpu-z it didnt make sense that volt was +.1 I guess the volt carried over from my fx4300.)

So I restarted computer and lowered voltage and clock, then began to boot computer but now it wont boot, how can I fix this??

I turn off turn on, nothing. I disconnect power connect power nothing.

I took out the round battery out and put it back in, nothing.(took it out for like 5-10 seconds holding powerbutton on to discharge energy, do I need longer?)

I have 700w PSU.

Also when I turn on my PC, i do not hear a "beep" and i look at my case everything turns on, but in 5-8 seconds after being on, my CPU HSF turns off while everything continues to run.

What other information do you guys need to help me troubleshoot?

Edit: I read something about CMOS, or something where is this "CMOS"? and what do I do with it, could I use screw driver to use as a jumper? (jumper clear?)
Also weird note my rig will run on power on, but when i hold to turn off power IT WONT TURN OFF, i need to manually disconnect PSU off button


----------



## nidzakv

Hi,

i just got my GA 990FXA UD3 rev4.0 mobo..

Its a great board, nice looking and quality made..

But i think this is strange, those heatsinks left and under the cpu are very hot, i cant hold my finger more than 5 seconds.. Is that normal or what?

Hwmonitor and ET6 says temps are normal...

Thanks...


----------



## istudy92

Define..hot.
What CPU u have?


----------



## nidzakv

Cpu is fx6300, not overclocked.. But i'm planing, thats the reason of buying this MB...

Define hot...

I dont know, i cant hold my finger more then 5 sec, it hurts...


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> Cpu is fx6300, not overclocked.. But i'm planing, thats the reason of buying this MB...
> 
> Define hot...
> 
> I dont know, i cant hold my finger more then 5 sec, it hurts...


perhaps its just warm and you have a very low threshold for pain


----------



## nidzakv

I've mounted pull fan on my 212 evo deeper to the mobo, and its spreading air over the heatsinks.. Its ok now...


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> Cpu is fx6300, not overclocked.. But i'm planing, thats the reason of buying this MB...
> 
> Define hot...
> 
> I dont know, i cant hold my finger more then 5 sec, it hurts...


Yes you have low threshold of heat, it's prolly 60c or around 100f which is warm in terms of computer heat.

Hot would be defined as you touch it for less than a second and you get burned, such as an 8350 OC on ud 3 rev 3 and your touch its VRM and squil lol.

6300 runs fairly cool just like 4300 you sh oull be fine to OC it as well without heat problems.

If you ever get hurt touching your mobo then its hot and something is wrong


----------



## nidzakv

Hhhh ty, its fine now... OC-ed 6300 to 4200 with no problems.. generely temp are 5c higher than the last asus board...


----------



## zila

If you have the room for it, these work pretty well at getting air to that corner of the board: http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Spot-Cool-SpotCool-System/dp/B000I5KSNQ


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> Can you suggest another software program that might measure VRM temps?
> 
> Heres a screenshot


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> It would be great if someone else with a rev 4 ran a test to compare.




As you can see, my rev 4 gets up there in temp as well. Yes this is the Voltage regulator temp and yes it is that hot. Thing is, this is monitored at the IC level:

This is where the sensor lives, under the VRM heat sink. Yes the VRMs are actually getting that hot.


This is a IR reading of the coils right below the heatsink while the first picture was taken. If the coils are that hot, yes I do believe the 15c variance to the PCB level VRM temp.


And why my VRMs run about 10c cooler than yours:


----------



## bbond007

One thing I notice with mine is that once I start Prime95 my temps(on my VRM) initially increase pretty rapidly and then after a few minutes they drop back down once my PS fan kicks into high gear....

The PS is directly above the VRM on my box and I'm guessing draws the heat off.

My best bet might just be to attach something onto the VRM heat sink to increase its surface area.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> If you have the room for it, these work pretty well at getting air to that corner of the board: http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Spot-Cool-SpotCool-System/dp/B000I5KSNQ


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antec-SpotCool-Blue-LED-Computer-Case-Cooling-Fan-with-3-Speed-Switch-/151107438485?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item232eb48795

same exact fan a couple bucks cheaper, i think its actually from the same e-tailer too


----------



## darkhorsefkn

Hi guys, I have a UD3 rev 4.0 here with a FX6300 and its making me feel like a moron!

Its got the F2 UEFI bios, and I can't figure out a way to overclock it in the bios. I can't change the ratios to manual, I just can't click that button.

Surely I am missing something important here!

Please don't tell me I have to use easytune.

edit: OK I figured it out, you just have to start typing the number in... Still feel like a moron.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkhorsefkn*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a UD3 rev 4.0 here with a FX6300 and its making me feel like a moron!
> 
> Its got the F2 UEFI bios, and I can't figure out a way to overclock it in the bios. I can't change the ratios to manual, I just can't click that button.
> 
> Surely I am missing something important here!
> 
> Please don't tell me I have to use easytune.


Just try keying in the number you wish









*THIS* guide has some good pointers to help


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkhorsefkn*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a UD3 rev 4.0 here with a FX6300 and its making me feel like a moron!
> 
> Its got the F2 UEFI bios, and I can't figure out a way to overclock it in the bios. I can't change the ratios to manual, I just can't click that button.
> 
> Surely I am missing something important here!
> 
> Please don't tell me I have to use easytune.
> 
> edit: OK I figured it out, you just have to start typing the number in... Still feel like a moron.


LOL.. 





































You can use the PAGE UP and DOWN Keys to change the Multiplier Ratios. Mouse use, although supported on UEFI Bios, doesn't have full operational functionality on the BIOS. Even the Number Keys (on the right hand side of the keyboard) isn't that functional on some MOBOs and BIOSes yet.





































Arrow Keys to move your selection.
Page Up and Down (*+* and *-* Keys)on changing Values.


----------



## OverThinkingit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, my rev 4 gets up there in temp as well. Yes this is the Voltage regulator temp and yes it is that hot. Thing is, this is monitored at the IC level:
> 
> This is where the sensor lives, under the VRM heat sink. Yes the VRMs are actually getting that hot.
> 
> 
> This is a IR reading of the coils right below the heatsink while the first picture was taken. If the coils are that hot, yes I do believe the 15c variance to the PCB level VRM temp.
> 
> 
> And why my VRMs run about 10c cooler than yours:


Very helpful, thank you.

I have a lot to learn about this overclocking thing, I never considered going below the stock multiplier and tuning the bus speed like that. What are the advantages/disadvantages of tweaking the bus speed over the multiplier in your experience? I realize that has probably been asked a million times by now so I will also start a google adventure with that question. lol


----------



## MoStyles

Updated 8320 overclock on 990FXA-UD3 rev.4

I'm running at 4.2 with 1.3vcore and all temps are just at or under 50c
C1e and CnQ is still enabled and everything else is disabled for the energy savers.

I also enabled HPC. This was the major difference of passing Prime 95.

I just just used auto-tune just to get an idea of what is easily plausible for an overclock. I of course use the BIOS for permanent overclocking but thank you guys pointed that out for any noobies.
Since that pulled my cpu to 4.5ghz without a problem. I think with my temps and plenty of voltage open to me. I might eventually push to 4.4/.5 easily for a 24/7 overclock. So very happy I basically got an 8350 out of a 8320 for right now running very cool.

I still have 2 questions that I could use some of your expertise on.

1) LLC settings: I have this set to auto, but I feel like I should disable it from what I have read on forums. Let me know what you guys have been setting this at. (Setting are: auto, low, medium, normal, extreme) I'm not sure what these values actually represent on a Giga board.

2) I starting to worry about the available wattage/voltage available from my PSU: 750x Seasonic 80 Plus Gold. I know wattage starts to jump pretty quick after an FX going further than a 4.0+ghz overclocks
I also have 2x 7950 sapphires in the case @ stock when in crossfire. I was playing BF3 last night for a while with everything maxed out on 1440p. I noticed that my system is using 570w - 600w to accomplish this with my 4.2ghz overclock. I know Seasonic makes some of the best PSU's made, but I have also have read that you still don't want to run more than 80% of constant power of what a PSU is rated at for long term. Anyway, if this was your system would you try to push the CPU higher or back it off and go for more GPU overclock. I can do 1100/1400 in crossfire without a problem, but haven't tried it with a high overclock as well and not sure I need it with 2x 7950 @1440p. I would think that my CPU would be more of a bottleneck with a lot of games I do play are still only 2 - 4 core optimized, if that. Or am I crazy and my PSU would be fine pushing into about 650-700w. PS. not going to upgrade my PSU at this time.

Thanks for all the help so far guys and would love to hear your opinions!


----------



## remoteman213

Hey guys, I've got a 990fxa-ud3 Rev 1.0 and was wondering whether it would be worth selling it and upgrading to a rev4?

From what I can tell, it will give me an llc option and also has better heatsinks. Does this mean there is more overclocking potential?

Right now my 8320 is at 4.4 and 1.37v and loads at 47c with my d14 but it takes 1.45 to get stable at 4.6 and temps hit 60.

Thanks

Sent from my XT885 using Tapatalk


----------



## OverThinkingit

@Mostyles: A couple of people, including myself, seem to have the most luck running Medium under LLC. I seems to give the most stable voltage.


----------



## MoStyles

Quote:


> @Mostyles: A couple of people, including myself, seem to have the most luck running Medium under LLC. I seems to give the most stable voltage.


Thanks man, I will give that a try and Prime before I start my overclock journey again.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoStyles*
> 
> Updated 8320 overclock on 990FXA-UD3 rev.4
> 
> I'm running at 4.2 with 1.3vcore and all temps are just at or under 50c
> C1e and CnQ is still enabled and everything else is disabled for the energy savers.
> 
> I also enabled HPC. This was the major difference of passing Prime 95.
> 
> I just just used auto-tune just to get an idea of what is easily plausible for an overclock. I of course use the BIOS for permanent overclocking but thank you guys pointed that out for any noobies.
> Since that pulled my cpu to 4.5ghz without a problem. I think with my temps and plenty of voltage open to me. I might eventually push to 4.4/.5 easily for a 24/7 overclock. So very happy I basically got an 8350 out of a 8320 for right now running very cool.
> 
> I still have 2 questions that I could use some of your expertise on.
> 
> 1) LLC settings: I have this set to auto, but I feel like I should disable it from what I have read on forums. Let me know what you guys have been setting this at. (Setting are: auto, low, medium, normal, extreme) I'm not sure what these values actually represent on a Giga board.
> 
> 2) I starting to worry about the available wattage/voltage available from my PSU: 750x Seasonic 80 Plus Gold. I know wattage starts to jump pretty quick after an FX going further than a 4.0+ghz overclocks
> I also have 2x 7950 sapphires in the case @ stock when in crossfire. I was playing BF3 last night for a while with everything maxed out on 1440p. I noticed that my system is using 570w - 600w to accomplish this with my 4.2ghz overclock. I know Seasonic makes some of the best PSU's made, but I have also have read that you still don't want to run more than 80% of constant power of what a PSU is rated at for long term. Anyway, if this was your system would you try to push the CPU higher or back it off and go for more GPU overclock. I can do 1100/1400 in crossfire without a problem, but haven't tried it with a high overclock as well and not sure I need it with 2x 7950 @1440p. I would think that my CPU would be more of a bottleneck with a lot of games I do play are still only 2 - 4 core optimized, if that. Or am I crazy and my PSU would be fine pushing into about 650-700w. PS. not going to upgrade my PSU at this time.
> 
> Thanks for all the help so far guys and would love to hear your opinions!


Check my guide insig has some good info on llc. I think most rev4 owners end up on medium though.

The psu should be fine. If you overclock too much more you may be pushing its limits though. I know gpus take alot of extra power overclocked. Usually recommemd 850w or more for sli 79xx. But around 600w should be about perfect operating watts for a 750. My brain doesnt want to do the math but id imagine its close to 80 percent

Edit:
After doing the math further it is exactly 80% at 600w. If your operating at that level you are way good







. If you want to overclock much further then 650watts then i would def get a new psu with more umph


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see, my rev 4 gets up there in temp as well. Yes this is the Voltage regulator temp and yes it is that hot. Thing is, this is monitored at the IC level:
> 
> This is where the sensor lives, under the VRM heat sink. Yes the VRMs are actually getting that hot.
> 
> 
> This is a IR reading of the coils right below the heatsink while the first picture was taken. If the coils are that hot, yes I do believe the 15c variance to the PCB level VRM temp.
> 
> 
> And why my VRMs run about 10c cooler than yours:


Hey man that's some interesting stuff you got there.

I wonder how did you manage to get those temps to be monitored? i mean i opened my HWINFO64 sensors and i could not find ''PM bus VR'' like in your picture.

I wonder what version of HWINFO64 you are using.


----------



## istudy92

Hey guys, I want to give some initial data on my Rev3 UD3 board.

.75+ volt increase at 4.4OC would get me stable thusfar



It stays below 78C (I know it should be below 62C but I am just stressing it obviously, real application I could keep these volts no? ) (ambient 70F)

VRM hot as hell as always from what I recalled on 8350.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *remoteman213*
> 
> Hey guys, I've got a 990fxa-ud3 Rev 1.0 and was wondering whether it would be worth selling it and upgrading to a rev4?
> 
> From what I can tell, it will give me an llc option and also has better heatsinks. Does this mean there is more overclocking potential?
> 
> Right now my 8320 is at 4.4 and 1.37v and loads at 47c with my d14 but it takes 1.45 to get stable at 4.6 and temps hit 60.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Sent from my XT885 using Tapatalk


keep the rev 1, I love my rev 1 and will use it with my next build... there isn't anything I can do with my rev 4 that I couldn't do with my rev 1. Just don't have the "pretty bios"...

Just slap a fan on the VRM heatsink and crank up the voltage!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> Very helpful, thank you.
> 
> I have a lot to learn about this overclocking thing, I never considered going below the stock multiplier and tuning the bus speed like that. What are the advantages/disadvantages of tweaking the bus speed over the multiplier in your experience? I realize that has probably been asked a million times by now so I will also start a google adventure with that question. lol


Multiplier OC will be easier for a start since you only have to mind about the Vcore. That is why most people start doing that to get the idea of where the chip or system would max out in OC. Then fine tune things from there.

FSB OC will be a little trickier since all the clocks will be dependent on it. CPU-NB and Memory clocks will be very sensitive to FSB changes. You will probably encounter "NO BOOTs" if you exceed or neglect them. But a little math will do.

But to cut this short, Multi is Easier to do. And Best if you only intend to OC the CPU alone. FSB OC will be trickier. But once you get a hold on how things work, you'll end up with a better system since everything will be running faster. RAM (if you intend to OC them as well), CPU-NB (improves RAM performance), and HT Link (for 3-4way crossfire bandwidth).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoStyles*
> 
> Updated 8320 overclock on 990FXA-UD3 rev.4
> 
> I'm running at 4.2 with 1.3vcore and all temps are just at or under 50c
> C1e and CnQ is still enabled and everything else is disabled for the energy savers.
> 
> I also enabled HPC. This was the major difference of passing Prime 95.
> 
> I just just used auto-tune just to get an idea of what is easily plausible for an overclock. I of course use the BIOS for permanent overclocking but thank you guys pointed that out for any noobies.
> Since that pulled my cpu to 4.5ghz without a problem. I think with my temps and plenty of voltage open to me. I might eventually push to 4.4/.5 easily for a 24/7 overclock. So very happy I basically got an 8350 out of a 8320 for right now running very cool.
> 
> I still have 2 questions that I could use some of your expertise on.
> 
> 1) LLC settings: I have this set to auto, but I feel like I should disable it from what I have read on forums. Let me know what you guys have been setting this at. (Setting are: auto, low, medium, normal, extreme) I'm not sure what these values actually represent on a Giga board.
> 
> 2) I starting to worry about the available wattage/voltage available from my PSU: 750x Seasonic 80 Plus Gold. I know wattage starts to jump pretty quick after an FX going further than a 4.0+ghz overclocks
> I also have 2x 7950 sapphires in the case @ stock when in crossfire. I was playing BF3 last night for a while with everything maxed out on 1440p. I noticed that my system is using 570w - 600w to accomplish this with my 4.2ghz overclock. I know Seasonic makes some of the best PSU's made, but I have also have read that you still don't want to run more than 80% of constant power of what a PSU is rated at for long term. Anyway, if this was your system would you try to push the CPU higher or back it off and go for more GPU overclock. I can do 1100/1400 in crossfire without a problem, but haven't tried it with a high overclock as well and not sure I need it with 2x 7950 @1440p. I would think that my CPU would be more of a bottleneck with a lot of games I do play are still only 2 - 4 core optimized, if that. Or am I crazy and my PSU would be fine pushing into about 650-700w. PS. not going to upgrade my PSU at this time.
> 
> Thanks for all the help so far guys and would love to hear your opinions!


Remember that 80+ Certifications refer to Power Efficiency (Power Out/Power In) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/80_Plus . And Gold Certifications will be good up to 88% at 100% Load. Though this does not mean you'll be getting clean (ripple-immune) voltages at 100% Duty, most seasonic PSU's can take a beating.









One thing to verify if your PSU will hold you back is to check your system while running your game or while stressing. +12 rail (Goes directly to the CPU and GPU) is the most important Voltage that you should watch. Give or take 0.5 Volts as Vdrop (or +12 rail to be read with a value 11.5 Volts) when gaming. 0.5 and over during intense gaming will hint you that your PSU is struggling and should be replaced. Less than that and you are fine. Best would be less than 0.3 Volts Drop.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Hey guys, I want to give some initial data on my Rev3 UD3 board.
> 
> .75+ volt increase at 4.4OC would get me stable thusfar
> 
> 
> 
> It stays below 78C (I know it should be below 62C but I am just stressing it obviously, real application I could keep these volts no? ) (ambient 70F)
> 
> VRM hot as hell as always from what I recalled on 8350.


What LLC setting are you using to get this temps?

Also, voltage seemed too high to get it to 4.4. I don't need to add any offset at Regular LLC to be OCCT Stable up to 4.5 that would spike my temps to mid 60's on a Silver Arrow. I have a stock VID of 1.337 though.

Lastly, at 75 degrees, does your chip ain't throttling yet?


----------



## hajnalka

New test report

Ferrite coke close in vrm is not watercooled max temp record 100C.
Water temp max 48C


----------



## dracconus

I just wanted to say that by making the following modifications on the UD3 Rev 3.0 Board I've dropped temps exponentially giving a LOT more head room for overclocking.
I hope that you all can benefit from this guide as much as I did.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1440428/gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud3-rev-3-0-vrm-and-northbridge-temps-solution


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverThinkingit*
> 
> Very helpful, thank you.
> 
> I have a lot to learn about this overclocking thing, I never considered going below the stock multiplier and tuning the bus speed like that. What are the advantages/disadvantages of tweaking the bus speed over the multiplier in your experience? I realize that has probably been asked a million times by now so I will also start a google adventure with that question. lol


generally speaking when you oc via FSB you will run warmer, also more for more advanced overclockers as it affects everything ( more or less ) where as a multi only affects cpu speed

why it will run hotter, more speed on ht/ cpu/nb and ram which requires more volts/amps = more heat
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoStyles*
> 
> Updated 8320 overclock on 990FXA-UD3 rev.4
> 
> I'm running at 4.2 with 1.3vcore and all temps are just at or under 50c
> C1e and CnQ is still enabled and everything else is disabled for the energy savers.
> 
> I also enabled HPC. This was the major difference of passing Prime 95.
> 
> I just just used auto-tune just to get an idea of what is easily plausible for an overclock. I of course use the BIOS for permanent overclocking but thank you guys pointed that out for any noobies.
> Since that pulled my cpu to 4.5ghz without a problem. I think with my temps and plenty of voltage open to me. I might eventually push to 4.4/.5 easily for a 24/7 overclock. So very happy I basically got an 8350 out of a 8320 for right now running very cool.
> 
> I still have 2 questions that I could use some of your expertise on.
> 
> 1) LLC settings: I have this set to auto, but I feel like I should disable it from what I have read on forums. Let me know what you guys have been setting this at. (Setting are: auto, low, medium, normal, extreme) I'm not sure what these values actually represent on a Giga board.
> 
> 2) I starting to worry about the available wattage/voltage available from my PSU: 750x Seasonic 80 Plus Gold. I know wattage starts to jump pretty quick after an FX going further than a 4.0+ghz overclocks
> I also have 2x 7950 sapphires in the case @ stock when in crossfire. I was playing BF3 last night for a while with everything maxed out on 1440p. I noticed that my system is using 570w - 600w to accomplish this with my 4.2ghz overclock. I know Seasonic makes some of the best PSU's made, but I have also have read that you still don't want to run more than 80% of constant power of what a PSU is rated at for long term. Anyway, if this was your system would you try to push the CPU higher or back it off and go for more GPU overclock. I can do 1100/1400 in crossfire without a problem, but haven't tried it with a high overclock as well and not sure I need it with 2x 7950 @1440p. I would think that my CPU would be more of a bottleneck with a lot of games I do play are still only 2 - 4 core optimized, if that. Or am I crazy and my PSU would be fine pushing into about 650-700w. PS. not going to upgrade my PSU at this time.
> 
> Thanks for all the help so far guys and would love to hear your opinions!


your psu should be fine, with my watercooling i was able to run a good oc ( ~ 4.7-4.8 ) on my 8350 +2 oced 7970s on my x750 i could trip OCP on suicide runs however ( bios modded 1.4v to GPUS @~1280/1875 + 1.7v { max for sabertooth, although i heard they raised it in latest bios have not tested } on 8350 5.55ghz )

you have plenty of headroom + you can max it out ( your psu ) you will almost never max your psu out in normal circumstances. almost 100% of the time !

i dont know who told you ~ 80%, it wont be necessarily as clean of power ( depending on psu/manufacture ) but iirc the x750 had SUPERB quality power even @ max load ( see johny guru review, although again i am going off the top of my head so i could be wrong )


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoStyles*
> 
> 2) I starting to worry about the available wattage/voltage available from my PSU: 750x Seasonic 80 Plus Gold. I know wattage starts to jump pretty quick after an FX going further than a 4.0+ghz overclocks
> I also have 2x 7950 sapphires in the case @ stock when in crossfire. I was playing BF3 last night for a while with everything maxed out on 1440p. I noticed that my system is using 570w - 600w to accomplish this with my 4.2ghz overclock. I know Seasonic makes some of the best PSU's made, but I have also have read that you still don't want to run more than 80% of constant power of what a PSU is rated at for long term. Anyway, if this was your system would you try to push the CPU higher or back it off and go for more GPU overclock. I can do 1100/1400 in crossfire without a problem, but haven't tried it with a high overclock as well and not sure I need it with 2x 7950 @1440p. I would think that my CPU would be more of a bottleneck with a lot of games I do play are still only 2 - 4 core optimized, if that. Or am I crazy and my PSU would be fine pushing into about 650-700w. PS. not going to upgrade my PSU at this time.
> 
> Thanks for all the help so far guys and would love to hear your opinions!


That is a nice PS. I think you are pushing it the limit, but fine









I have a similar setup with weaker PS and have been going strong.

I have a OCZ 680 watt multiple 12v rail (older ATX pre-modular). I just tried to run 3Dmark at [email protected] GTX 760 SLI and my UPS shut down because I was apparently drawing over 600watt. I also had the GPUs overclocked 100mhz GPU 400mhz RAM. I had to plug the CPU into the non-battery outlet and restart the test.

At 4200mhz the UPS beeps and threatens to shut down, but never does...

I think your best bet is to run the GPUs stock speed and run the CPU as fast as possible because (like me) your 8320 will struggle to push both GFX board 100% (even @ 1080p) in a lot of games even though v-sync is disabled.

Also those 7950 GPUs burn up to 200watt each so overclocking those is probably going to use more power than overclocking the CPU.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> That is a nice PS. I think you are pushing it the limit, but fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a similar setup with weaker PS and have been going strong.
> 
> I have a OCZ 680 watt multiple 12v rail (older ATX pre-modular). I just tried to run 3Dmark at [email protected] GTX 760 SLI and my UPS shut down because I was apparently drawing over 600watt. I also had the GPUs overclocked 100mhz GPU 400mhz RAM. I had to plug the CPU into the non-battery outlet and restart the test.
> 
> At 4200mhz the UPS beeps and threatens to shut down, but never does...
> 
> I think your best bet is to run the GPUs stock speed and run the CPU as fast as possible because (like me) your 8320 will struggle to push both GFX board 100% (even @ 1080p) in a lot of games even though v-sync is disabled.
> 
> Also those 7950 GPUs burn up to 200watt each so overclocking those is probably going to use more power than overclocking the CPU.


Your statement is one example of how those 80+ PLUS Certified and non-80 PLUS Certified PSUs or PSUs in General act in a real world.

You got your UPS to trip of when running an OC'ed CPU and OC'ed GPU @ SLI: I can only think of these reasons:

1. Your UPS' Power Rating is less than what your system actually Draws.
2. Your PSU (OCZ 680) even if it was an 80 PLUS one, will draw more than 850 at Full Load. But not because it Drawn more than 80% of its Rating. Remember, it was your UPS that tripped off.
3. Since it was your UPS that tripped-off, I don't see any reason why your PSU would hold you back. Same goes for the OP. You can try running your system and monitor your voltages. That way you can assess what's holding you back.

That 8320 won't be a bottleneck if OC'ed nicely IMO.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Your statement is one example of how those 80+ PLUS Certified and non-80 PLUS Certified PSUs or PSUs in General act in a real world.
> 
> You got your UPS to trip of when running an OC'ed CPU and OC'ed GPU @ SLI: I can only think of these reasons:
> 
> 1. Your UPS' Power Rating is less than what your system actually Draws.
> 2. Your PSU (OCZ 680) even if it was an 80 PLUS one, will draw more than 850 at Full Load. But not because it Drawn more than 80% of its Rating. Remember, it was your UPS that tripped off.
> 3. Since it was your UPS that tripped-off, I don't see any reason why your PSU would hold you back. Same goes for the OP. You can try running your system and monitor your voltages. That way you can assess what's holding you back.
> 
> That 8320 won't be a bottleneck if OC'ed nicely IMO.


I don't even know where the OCZ PS came from, but I don't think I bought it, because I typically don't like OCZ brand.

I had to use it because the existing PS was a fan-less 400watt







it was in my junk, thought I'd dive it a try.

I'd like to get a new one because the PS fan is the loudest part of my system.

Also I'm using 2 molex to PCIE power adapters, one with 6->8 pin adapter. Its like the Griswold's christmas lights in that case.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Hey guys, I want to give some initial data on my Rev3 UD3 board.
> 
> .75+ volt increase at 4.4OC would get me stable thusfar
> 
> 
> 
> It stays below 78C (I know it should be below 62C but I am just stressing it obviously, real application I could keep these volts no? ) (ambient 70F)
> 
> VRM hot as hell as always from what I recalled on 8350.


careful running that high. I thought id be ok after i OC'd to 4.6ghz stable. Then i switched to ULNA adapters and slowed the fans down. p95 went up to 65 in about 5-10 minutes so i figured it was ok since i knew it was stable and it probably woulda maxed around 70ish after extended use. Then later I ran ConvertxtoDVD converting 4 movies temperatures spiked up to 67 so i decided to back off to 4.5ghz. Max temps now with ULNA while converting full speed 62.3degrees (after the full conversion which took maybe 20-30 minutes). Games never get that high but still gotta be careful. Might see high temps like that while extracting zips or doing any other forms of converting aswell. Just keep hwinfo64 running and keep it safe.







My guide below in sig mentions how to use hwinfo64 with a .bat file to shutdown PC if you exceed X degrees while gaming/overnight stressing/converting. Can be helpful if you need it (set mine to 72 degrees just in case fans fail or something).


----------



## MoStyles

Quote:


> Your statement is one example of how those 80+ PLUS Certified and non-80 PLUS Certified PSUs or PSUs in General act in a real world.
> 
> You got your UPS to trip of when running an OC'ed CPU and OC'ed GPU @ SLI: I can only think of these reasons:
> 
> 1. Your UPS' Power Rating is less than what your system actually Draws.
> 2. Your PSU (OCZ 680) even if it was an 80 PLUS one, will draw more than 850 at Full Load. But not because it Drawn more than 80% of its Rating. Remember, it was your UPS that tripped off.
> 3. Since it was your UPS that tripped-off, I don't see any reason why your PSU would hold you back. Same goes for the OP. You can try running your system and monitor your voltages. That way you can assess what's holding you back.
> 
> That 8320 won't be a bottleneck if OC'ed nicely IMO.


I just looked up some benching on that PSU and they said it should have been rated Platinum at the time. It does do an 88% efficiency so that brings me up to 660 watts continuous at full load without ripples. Which we all know would only happen with Furmark and Prime95 running full out. Sounds like I have a safe 60+ watts to play with to even reach it's stable max, plus it is capable of of %120 spikes.(900w) I'll never hit that window with what I have. Those Seasonics are tough little PSU from the tests/benchmarks I have read.
Thanks


----------



## MoStyles

FX-8320 Overclock update and Prime95 passed.

CPU @ 4.4ghz
Vcore: 1.375 (1.38 Avg. Prime95)
multiplier @ 22
Turboisabled
CnQ: enabled
C1e: enabled
HPC: enabled
All other power saving settings are disabled
LLC: medium
Ram profile to 1600
CPU Temp Load: 55c during Prime95
CPU Temp Idle: 22c

I know everyone likes to stay around 55c load for a safe temp, but since this is prime95 and my CPU will never get that high in games, do you think I should push a little more. I really don't want to go much over 1.4v for daily use, but that might get me to 4.5 - 4.6ghz pretty easy. What do you guys think? Or will it even make much difference in games? I still have a a bunch of games that I haven't played that are only single core optimized. Hence, I needed a good overclock to justify switching from a 960t x6 @ 3.8ghz for some single core performance.

All your advice has been great and helped to get a nice stable overclock and now it was a good move to upgrade CPU+Mobo
I was skeptical of getting an 8320 over the 8350 and I'm think I made the right decision to safe $50 bucks.
Anyway, Thanks guys!

Not to start a flame (I do like Intel) but...... 8 core cpu that can run 4.4-4.6ghz for $150......how can anyone say that isn't a great value!
Can't wait till some of the next gen games come out!


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> careful running that high. I thought id be ok after i OC'd to 4.6ghz stable. Then i switched to ULNA adapters and slowed the fans down. p95 went up to 65 in about 5-10 minutes so i figured it was ok since i knew it was stable and it probably woulda maxed around 70ish after extended use. Then later I ran ConvertxtoDVD converting 4 movies temperatures spiked up to 67 so i decided to back off to 4.5ghz. Max temps now with ULNA while converting full speed 62.3degrees (after the full conversion which took maybe 20-30 minutes). Games never get that high but still gotta be careful. Might see high temps like that while extracting zips or doing any other forms of converting aswell. Just keep hwinfo64 running and keep it safe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My guide below in sig mentions how to use hwinfo64 with a .bat file to shutdown PC if you exceed X degrees while gaming/overnight stressing/converting. Can be helpful if you need it (set mine to 72 degrees just in case fans fail or something).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What LLC setting are you using to get this temps?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> What LLC setting are you using to get this temps?
> 
> Also, voltage seemed too high to get it to 4.4. I don't need to add any offset at Regular LLC to be OCCT Stable up to 4.5 that would spike my temps to mid 60's on a Silver Arrow. I have a stock VID of 1.337 though.
> 
> Lastly, at 75 degrees, does your chip ain't throttling yet?
> 
> 
> 
> I know i lowered it to .5+ instead, I always add extra juice and go downward to avoid crashing haha (I know stupid but w/e lol)
> 
> My LLC is set on High, should I lower it or increase it?
> 
> Um my Cores stayed stable BUT my voltages were changing LIKE CRAZY (idk if thats throttling) it was chaning from 1.36 to 1.43
> 
> ----
> 
> Also yeah I normally fold, I was surprised that my core was hitting 72max, but it normally ran around 64C average (I think 60s should be fine to run around..although life of CPU will be lowered but..lets be real..this cpu isnt going to be kept longer than 2 years lol by then ud have an excavator chip.)
Click to expand...


----------



## MoStyles

Just hit 4.5ghz p95 stable @ 1.4v and 63c max load temp
I think this is my new 24/7 overclock

I might just push it a little further just to know what it can do.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> I know i lowered it to .5+ instead, I always add extra juice and go downward to avoid crashing haha (I know stupid but w/e lol)
> 
> My LLC is set on High, should I lower it or increase it?
> 
> Um my Cores stayed stable BUT my voltages were changing LIKE CRAZY (idk if thats throttling) it was chaning from 1.36 to 1.43
> 
> ----
> 
> Also yeah I normally fold, I was surprised that my core was hitting 72max, but it normally ran around 64C average (I think 60s should be fine to run around..although life of CPU will be lowered but..lets be real..this cpu isnt going to be kept longer than 2 years lol by then ud have an excavator chip.)


Depending on how your MOBO and CPU reacts to LLC settings. But as what I have observed, High LLC acts almost the same way as Ultra. From what I have been through on mine, 8320 + UD3 rev 3, at same offsets, Regular and Medium will be cooler than High and Ultra. I took my time learning where my chips would border in terms of the Offsets first at a given LLC Setting. Then tweak those LLC to get my system run cooler while still stable.

Say at 4.5GHz, I can run OCCT without issues at +0.025 at Ultra LLC. Any lower Offset would automatically Crash my system. So there's only LLC option left. I turned LLC to Regular and check for stability. As a result I have my system running cooler since Regular and Medium doesn't add any voltage from my stock VID. While Ultra and High would be about 0.0125 Volts higher than stock VID without any Offset added or +0.000V.

Or you can do it reversed. Start with Regular, Stability test, Stable?, Turn to Ultra but with one step less Offset on the Voltage.

But you gotta be sure you can find where that borderline is to be effective.







Time consuming, YES. But the result on mine is so Sweet.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoStyles*
> 
> Just hit 4.5ghz p95 stable @ 1.4v and 63c max load temp
> I think this is my new 24/7 overclock
> 
> I might just push it a little further just to know what it can do.


Before proceeding a step higher, try testing what you can get from the following:

CPU-PLL Voltage
LLC Setting
PCIe/NB/ PLL

As I and some guys tested, CPU PLL can make you more stable and cooler. The consensus was to set the CPU PLL to about 2.695 (the last setting before the option goes RED on some Giga Boards. UD3 Rev3 doesn't go REDs)

LLC Setting will also make your system cooler granted you have the patience to find your system's sweet spot.

PCIe/NB PLL will be for the CPU-NB, and PCIe etc. The value would be around 1.995.

Go enjoy your new Overclock mate!!


----------



## rascas

Hey guys new to the forum, I have read through most of the pages so far and there seems to be a lot of knowledge in here.

I just bought myself a 990fxa ud7 and splashed on a fx 9370 and I've got some gskill trident 2400 2 x 4gb.

I have very good cooling (Caselabs M8 running heaps of fans) and will be under water by next week hopefully. Am currently using the supplied asetek water cooler.

I have done some brief testing and managed to get 4.7 with vcore 1.45. I only primed for about 30min just to check. CPU temps were around 50 C and NB around 55 C. I kept RAM at stock, HT was 2600 and NB 2200. All power saving features were disabled, APM was disabled and HPC was enabled. All other voltages were left on stock.

I however struggled getting up to 4.8, booted no problem, prime was failing after about 2 - 3 min, pushed vcore up to around 1.5 but couldn't get far.

I could use some suggestions on how I could stabilise this puppy but I'm not sure about a few settings in bios. I have nb core which I can adjust and then nb voltage further down the page, what is the difference between these? Also does raising cpu pll voltage help with higher clock or just higher FSB? I have it at 2.5 which is stock.

I 'm pretty happy so far, I am used to Intel boards but haven't built a custom pc since my x48 rampage, had my q9650 running 4.44 Ghz, So I do need a little help but I will definitely be pushing for higher clocks once my custom loop is up and running.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Hey guys new to the forum, I have read through most of the pages so far and there seems to be a lot of knowledge in here.
> 
> I just bought myself a 990fxa ud7 and splashed on a fx 9370 and I've got some gskill trident 2400 2 x 4gb.
> 
> I have very good cooling (Caselabs M8 running heaps of fans) and will be under water by next week hopefully. Am currently using the supplied asetek water cooler.
> 
> I have done some brief testing and managed to get 4.7 with vcore 1.45. I only primed for about 30min just to check. CPU temps were around 50 C and NB around 55 C. I kept RAM at stock, HT was 2600 and NB 2200. All power saving features were disabled, APM was disabled and HPC was enabled. All other voltages were left on stock.
> 
> I however struggled getting up to 4.8, booted no problem, prime was failing after about 2 - 3 min, pushed vcore up to around 1.5 but couldn't get far.
> 
> I could use some suggestions on how I could stabilise this puppy but I'm not sure about a few settings in bios. I have nb core which I can adjust and then nb voltage further down the page, what is the difference between these? Also does raising cpu pll voltage help with higher clock or just higher FSB? I have it at 2.5 which is stock.
> 
> I 'm pretty happy so far, I am used to Intel boards but haven't built a custom pc since my x48 rampage, had my q9650 running 4.44 Ghz, So I do need a little help but I will definitely be pushing for higher clocks once my custom loop is up and running.


I could only speak on a few things here.

1st, you mentioned you are running your RAM at stock. Could you clearly define *STOCK* ?? As 2400 MHz isn't readily available or attainable without altering (OC) the FSB. Maximum RAM Multiplier is just good for 2133.

2nd, pushing that chip will just depend on where the Voltage wall would be. It might be that 1.5 Vcore isn't enough to stabilise 4.8.









3rd, before proceeding to much higher clocks, be sure to make some effort cooling the VRMs. The UD7 is a pretty capable board as others would attest. Minor improvements like attaching a fan directly to the VRM Heatsink will do the board better.









4th, CPU PLL will be beneficial on the Vcore. PCIE/NB/.. will be for the CPU-NB and other Voltages. Crank those up before the settings get RED as others would say.

5th, Running 2400 Mhz of RAM would be a bit tricky. But the basics or rather I and Hurricane have done, FSB should be at 257, CPU-NB and HT Link would be around 2570. Manually input the RAM Rated Timings and Voltages, Crank up you CPU-NB Voltage, Try.


----------



## rascas

Hey Mus,

Thanks for the quick reply, I made a mistake, I meant the boards stock ram value being 1600, I haven't really played with the ram settings other than getting it to boot 2133, just to see if it would and and then putting it back to 1600.

Yeah as for cooling I've already modified the back of the motherboard tray with and opening and put a 120mm fan there and I had another 120mm above the nb/vrm. One of things I've picked up by reading through this thread is good airflow goes along way on these boards, don't want any warping.









I am just a little worried about cranking up the cpu pll so high as I have read in few places that its a good way to kill these cpu's, but ill be a bit more confident when I have proper water cooling set up. I'll definitely be a little upset if I cant get more than 4.7, considering that's the turbo core on this cpu.









Ill definitely try these settings you gave me for the ram and see how I go with some fsb overclocking and let you know how I go


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Hey Mus,
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply, I made a mistake, I meant the boards stock ram value being 1600, I haven't really played with the ram settings other than getting it to boot 2133, just to see if it would and and then putting it back to 1600.
> 
> Yeah as for cooling I've already modified the back of the motherboard tray with and opening and put a 120mm fan there and I had another 120mm above the nb/vrm. One of things I've picked up by reading through this thread is good airflow goes along way on these boards, don't want any warping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am just a little worried about cranking up the cpu pll so high as I have read in few places that its a good way to kill these cpu's, but ill be a bit more confident when I have proper water cooling set up. I'll definitely be a little upset if I cant get more than 4.7, considering that's the turbo core on this cpu.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ill definitely try these settings you gave me for the ram and see how I go with some fsb overclocking and let you know how I go


People here confirmed that PLL Voltages helped GIGA boards. Both on the Stability and Temps. I also did try out lowering PLL Voltages and found out that lowering them can cause crashes on an already stable OC. About pumping the too high, when generally people said of the value 2.695 for the CPU PLL, I tested mine at 2.795







and never had issues. Not to prove anything but I did it just for testing and trying to get a hold on how the thing works. Pulled it back to 2.695 since I can't get any other improvement doing so.









Anyway, a lot of people here can help you with your OC'ing quest. Just post some queries and they will start sharing their experiences and advice you on what to do.























I bet you got your MOBO + CPU from EGG. Am I right? That's a very good package they offer. Unfortunately, many people bashed these 9XXX series Visheras for not offering further OC'ing headroom than the regular 83XX ones.









But anyway, if you can get a good cooling for that chip, 5.0+GHz will be at hand.


----------



## rascas

I cant buy from the egg, I'm on the other side of the planet, in Australia, wish i could though we pay extra for everything over here and they have such good prices.

Still a 9370 cost $299 with a liquid cooler a 8350 cost $225 with a fan, so its a good deal, ill sell the cooler and hopefully get $50 back so it works out similar with a slightly higher chance of higher clocks. That's what is good about 9xxx, prices were too high when released but now that they have dropped they are a great deal.

So i definitely will try raising cpu pll and hopefully that can get me a little more stable and then push on.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Cool, just passed 5 runs of IBT on Max, and 5 min of OCCT (large) on my 8350 (4.4Ghz) with a UD3 rev4 @ 1.38vcore and only 42 Celsius.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Cool, just passed 5 runs of IBT on Max, and 5 min of OCCT (large) on my 8350 (4.4Ghz) with a UD3 rev4 @ 1.38vcore and only 42 Celsius.


Good job









I could run my 8350 at 4.4 at stock volts, 1.36









I could run prime95 all day long with zero issues. I now run at 4.8 at 1.52 volts and get very good temps and its prime stable as well.


----------



## rascas

I set up my water cooling today and started to overclock and am managing to keep my load temps down to 53 at 1.55, nb at 45, but can only manage 4.9 stable. I have pushed as far as 1.58 but cant get 5 ghz to prime for long.

My question is for a 24/7 setting considering my temps are quite good, do you guys think pushing to 1.6 is dangerous. I know the difference between 4.9 and 5 is not noticeable but i love chasing numbers. I have a caselabs m8 with about 16 fans, 2 360 rads on my cpu nb loop, (I know its overkill but I have the room so why not














), ive got a fan on the nb with a fan behind the mobo tray to so its got heaps of airflow.


----------



## Mega Man

i know several ppl who push 1.6v np i would not worry about it


----------



## ginger_nuts

Give it a try at 1.6v, even for SnG









But come summer no doubt you may need to decrease the OC


----------



## rascas

second day with this chip and im gona have me a bbq

1.62 lasted for about 2 minutes at 5ghz before illegal summout, temps weren't too bad though sat on 64 degree


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> second day with this chip and im gona have me a bbq
> 
> 1.62 lasted for about 2 minutes at 5ghz before illegal summout, temps weren't too bad though sat on 64 degree


How do you get it to 64 degrees? Mine throttles to stay at 50-51 which is really annoying.


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> How do you get it to 64 degrees? Mine throttles to stay at 50-51 which is really annoying.


Have you verified the temps you are being reported as accurrate? I have never seen something throttle at 50. Sounds like your software or sensor is inaccurate to me.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> How do you get it to 64 degrees? Mine throttles to stay at 50-51 which is really annoying.


Ya that probably has nothing to do with cpu temp. More then likely apm or something


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> Have you verified the temps you are being reported as accurrate? I have never seen something throttle at 50. Sounds like your software or sensor is inaccurate to me.


HWMonitor, Core Temp, EasyTune6 (which I do NOT use to OC), everything I've tried agrees, under Prime95 over 4.8GHz it throttles back and keeps the temps at 50 degrees C.

I don't have a thermometer to check so I have to believe what the mobo reports.

How would APM affect it?


----------



## dmfree88

Sometmes apm being enabled while turbo core is disabled can cause issues. Which mobo/rev are you using? Maybe need a fan on the VRM heatsnk if you got a rev 3 ud3 thats probably whats needed. Ill try to find the post about throttling and post it here when i get back to my pc.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> second day with this chip and im gona have me a bbq
> 
> 1.62 lasted for about 2 minutes at 5ghz before illegal summout, temps weren't too bad though sat on 64 degree
> 
> 
> 
> How do you get it to 64 degrees? Mine throttles to stay at 50-51 which is really annoying.
Click to expand...

what does your VRM area look like do you have a fan on it ?
according to the pics in your build you do not. try that. you can try by setting it on a vid card. but personally i would not do that long term and you will need to make sure to stabilize it, dont damage your vid cards....


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Sometmes apm being enabled while turbo core is disabled can cause issues. Which mobo/rev are you using? Maybe need a fan on the VRM heatsnk if you got a rev 3 ud3 thats probably whats needed. Ill try to find the post about throttling and post it here when i get back to my pc.


Ah looking at my notes I did leave APM on auto. Switch it off you think?

With a TJMax of 80 it seems a bit overly cautious to throttle at 50.

It's the rig in my sig:

FX 9370
990FXA-UD5 rev.3 on FCb


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what does your VRM area look like do you have a fan on it ?
> according to the pics in your build you do not. try that. you can try by setting it on a vid card. but personally i would not do that long term and you will need to make sure to stabilize it, dont damage your vid cards....


You lost me. :-(

OK I mean, I know where you mean but that shouldn't cause the problem should it?
At some point I'd like to improve the cooling on the mobo but would that really be a problem atm?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> You lost me. :-(


not sure if the 9xxx series have the same max or not.. but i know my 8350 says tjmax is 90, and we still have issues after 70 degrees. Highly recommended to keep under 62ish.

Try disabling APM see what happens especially if you already have turbo core disabled, this may be the problem. Heres the post about it, kinda helpful:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1202751/amd-fx-cpu-throttling-fixes-please-sticky

If you end up on tip#3 its as simple as just adding a fan. To test do as mega mentioned just prop it up on your gpu. if it works, jerry-rig then BAM fixed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> You lost me. :-(


VRM are the chips underneath the heatsink to the left of your CPU. VRM heatsink is that heatsink







. Its connected to the northbridge heatsink which is directly underneath your cpu. UD3 owners are known to have issues with there heatsinks and rev3 owners tend to REQUIRE a fan stock. You would be one of the first ive seen with problems with the UD5 but ive also heard of the new uefi bios on UD5 not being that great. Not alot of people have posted here with it to let us know how well it functions. I have a rev 1.1 which works great with no problems OCing up to 4.7 so far without throttling (will know more when i get custom water







). Hopefully your bios has been fixed with the latest updates I really havent heard alot of people with problems. Usually they find there way here if they do







.

I have not heard of needing additional cooling on the UD5 but its never a bad thing to add a fan to VRM heatsinks. Will only let you go further in the future anyways


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Sometmes apm being enabled while turbo core is disabled can cause issues. Which mobo/rev are you using? Maybe need a fan on the VRM heatsnk if you got a rev 3 ud3 thats probably whats needed. Ill try to find the post about throttling and post it here when i get back to my pc.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah looking at my notes I did leave APM on auto. Switch it off you think?
> 
> With a TJMax of 80 it seems a bit overly cautious to throttle at 50.
> 
> It's the rig in my sig:
> 
> FX 9370
> 990FXA-UD5 rev.3 on FCb
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what does your VRM area look like do you have a fan on it ?
> according to the pics in your build you do not. try that. you can try by setting it on a vid card. but personally i would not do that long term and you will need to make sure to stabilize it, dont damage your vid cards....
> 
> 
> 
> You lost me. :-(
> 
> OK I mean, I know where you mean but that shouldn't cause the problem should it?
> At some point I'd like to improve the cooling on the mobo but would that really be a problem atm?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> You lost me. :-(
> 
> 
> 
> not sure if the 9xxx series have the same max or not.. but i know my 8350 says tjmax is 90, and we still have issues after 70 degrees. Highly recommended to keep under 62ish.
> 
> Try disabling APM see what happens especially if you already have turbo core disabled, this may be the problem. Heres the post about it, kinda helpful:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1202751/amd-fx-cpu-throttling-fixes-please-sticky
> 
> If you end up on tip#3 its as simple as just adding a fan. To test do as mega mentioned just prop it up on your gpu. if it works, jerry-rig then BAM fixed.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> You lost me. :-(
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> VRM are the chips underneath the heatsink to the left of your CPU. VRM heatsink is that heatsink
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Its connected to the northbridge heatsink which is directly underneath your cpu. UD3 owners are known to have issues with there heatsinks and rev3 owners tend to REQUIRE a fan stock. You would be one of the first ive seen with problems with the UD5 but ive also heard of the new uefi bios on UD5 not being that great. Not alot of people have posted here with it to let us know how well it functions. I have a rev 1.1 which works great with no problems OCing up to 4.7 so far without throttling (will know more when i get custom water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). Hopefully your bios has been fixed with the latest updates I really havent heard alot of people with problems. Usually they find there way here if they do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I have not heard of needing additional cooling on the UD5 but its never a bad thing to add a fan to VRM heatsinks. Will only let you go further in the future anyways
Click to expand...




yep what he said disable apm and granted i dont have a ud5 but generally HPC off= no oc hpc on = apply OC settings. at least with my ud7 that is true and i hear through the grape vine that is works on ud3,ud5 rev 3 !


----------



## Auisce

You guys are awesome, thanks.
I'll try that stuff (probably tomoz).
Any recommendations regarding cooling the VRM, NB and anything else? No point in not doing it if it's going to help aye. Pictures would be ace.


----------



## dmfree88

theres many ways to do it. I have the ud5 and currently i dont run a fan on mine (if i were water cooled over 4.7ghz i would likely add a fan but may not need it). Just havent wanted to deal with it and i got a giant noctua cooler/fan blowing directly on it (had to push the 140mm down so far to fit my case that its blowing under the cpu heatsink through the vrm). Alot use zip ties or twist ties though. The most professional/clean looking way seems to be with a single screw. You can find a couple screw sizes/thread patterns that will hold down a small fan and screw directly into the gap on the heatsink itself (may cause slight paint damage of course but who cares you wont ever see it). If you can hunt down a pile of screws and find the right one this is the best looking option, only takes one screw and holds it down without a bunch of wires/zipties or ugliness.

If you want to test just pull the fan off your stock AMD cooler and jerry rig it in there for a test. Really wouldnt recommend screwing that thing into the heatsink unless you want to hear a jet plane for the rest of your life. Better to invest in a $5 small fan.


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> theres many ways to do it. I have the ud5 and currently i dont run a fan on mine (if i were water cooled over 4.7ghz i would likely add a fan but may not need it). Just havent wanted to deal with it and i got a giant noctua cooler/fan blowing directly on it (had to push the 140mm down so far to fit my case that its blowing under the cpu heatsink through the vrm). Alot use zip ties or twist ties though. The most professional/clean looking way seems to be with a single screw. You can find a couple screw sizes/thread patterns that will hold down a small fan and screw directly into the gap on the heatsink itself (may cause slight paint damage of course but who cares you wont ever see it). If you can hunt down a pile of screws and find the right one this is the best looking option, only takes one screw and holds it down without a bunch of wires/zipties or ugliness.
> 
> If you want to test just pull the fan off your stock AMD cooler and jerry rig it in there for a test. Really wouldnt recommend screwing that thing into the heatsink unless you want to hear a jet plane for the rest of your life. Better to invest in a $5 small fan.


No stock cooler with the FX9* series.
Just something ickle like this on the top blowing toward the mobo?
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-030-AK&groupid=701&catid=2331&subcat=818

Though I have to say, the blue really isn't my thing but the mobo, ram, and spare fan I had just happened to all be blue; go figure.

Come to think of it, I have a spare Cooler Master TX3 EVO...


----------



## JDC2389

I have a Revision 1.0 and sufficient cooling to the vrms and northbridge(air),motherboard temps nice and cool. I feel mighty proud of my overclock considering the high bus frequency on a locked 1045t. I got it in a 100 dollar fire sale off tiger direct. Adding cpu/pll and nb pci-e pll voltage helped stabilize things and almost no added temps(maybe 1-5c but not on the cpu). I might have been able to overclock further but this board isn't stable at 300 fsb but I can't blame them for that.  Thuban loves high northbridge clocks, cheers









ps: I have replaced all the **** thermal paste with a nice non-conductive thermal paste


----------



## rascas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> How do you get it to 64 degrees? Mine throttles to stay at 50-51 which is really annoying.


Like the other guys are saying if its throttling at 50 degrees, its most likely a setting or not enough cooling of the vrm, my issues don't seem to be heat more voltage wall limits.

Hopefully you can get it sorted and push that 9370 further than I could. Looks like 4.9 is my limit at 1.55V but with a nice 51 degrees at full load.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Your statement is one example of how those 80+ PLUS Certified and non-80 PLUS Certified PSUs or PSUs in General act in a real world.
> 
> You got your UPS to trip of when running an OC'ed CPU and OC'ed GPU @ SLI: I can only think of these reasons:
> 
> 1. Your UPS' Power Rating is less than what your system actually Draws.
> 2. Your PSU (OCZ 680) even if it was an 80 PLUS one, will draw more than 850 at Full Load. But not because it Drawn more than 80% of its Rating. Remember, it was your UPS that tripped off.
> 3. Since it was your UPS that tripped-off, I don't see any reason why your PSU would hold you back. Same goes for the OP. You can try running your system and monitor your voltages. That way you can assess what's holding you back.
> 
> That 8320 won't be a bottleneck if OC'ed nicely IMO.


I now have purchased a 900watt UPS so I won't have the problem.

the power kept glitching knocking out my router and cable modem which were just on surge, so now I put the CPU on the 900watt and put everything else on the 600 watt unit









http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2244158&CatId=234


----------



## ginger_nuts

Has anyone else with a UD3 rev 4 found the TMPIN0, 1 and 2 seem different then the other rev's ?

It almost seems, TMPIN0 = System temp, TMPIN1 = NB Temp and TEMPIN2 = CPU Temp.


----------



## rascas

Can anyone verify what there stock nb core value is, my bios only shows an offset which I can adjust but no value, so I am running blind atm, sitting on +.200

that nb core, not nb voltage


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Has anyone else with a UD3 rev 4 found the TMPIN0, 1 and 2 seem different then the other rev's ?
> 
> It almost seems, TMPIN0 = System temp, TMPIN1 = NB Temp and TEMPIN2 = CPU Temp.


Use hwinfo64 it should be labeled more clearly


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Use hwinfo64 it should be labeled more clearly


Aida64 has them labelled clearly for my UD3 REV 3 on FC bios. Hwmonitor pro does not nor does speedfan. Speaking of speedfan does anyone know of any other fan controlling software because speedfan is unable to adjust fan port voltage on 3pins.


----------



## ozlay

im looking into getting the ud7 board and was wondering does the F11d beta bios add support for the 9370 and 9590 chips? or can they be ran in older bios or do i have to use a another chip to flash the bios to support the new chips?


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> im looking into getting the ud7 board and was wondering does the F11d beta bios add support for the 9370 and 9590 chips? or can they be ran in older bios or do i have to use a another chip to flash the bios to support the new chips?


I have an FX9370 on a UD5.

UD7 CPU support list:
http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4658

UD5 CPU support list:
http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4455

You flash the BIOS with Q-Flash from the BIOS, with the new BIOS on a USB stick. The support lists above show which BIOSs are needed for the chips.
You don't need another chip; just build your rig and flash the BIOS.

Oh and just in case you hadn't noticed yet, there's no stock cooler with those chips and you'll need to go water cooled on those; I'm using a Corsair H100 with no problems.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Can anyone verify what there stock nb core value is, my bios only shows an offset which I can adjust but no value, so I am running blind atm, sitting on +.200
> 
> that nb core, not nb voltage


NB Core Voltage will be for your CPU-NB. At stock, would be around 1.18 Volts (On mine) Not sure about other chips though. But HWInfo64, AMD OverDrive, Aida64 shows the stock value. So go figure the final value after the offsets.

North Bridge or MOBO NB won't be any problem as it's value is already displayed in the BIOS.

Convention would be, add some offset to the NB Core if you are OC'ing the FSB as well as the CPU-NB from stock of 2200 MHz. MOBO NB will also need some bump if you are running the HT Link Frequency higher than stock of 2600.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I now have purchased a 900watt UPS so I won't have the problem.
> 
> the power kept glitching knocking out my router and cable modem which were just on surge, so now I put the CPU on the 900watt and put everything else on the 600 watt unit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2244158&CatId=234


That's a good idea!









UPS will be important if you care about not getting caught up with power glitches on your wall socket.

Is the previous problem still occur on the new UPS?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> im looking into getting the ud7 board and was wondering does the F11d beta bios add support for the 9370 and 9590 chips? or can they be ran in older bios or do i have to use a another chip to flash the bios to support the new chips?


probably 99/100 times (with newer boards atleast) the chips will work atleast well enough to flash the bios. I assume they designed them that way in order to make our lives a little easier out of the box. I got super worried when I had bought a older board aswell that didnt support my 8350 on older bios. But the chip worked fine, bios flashed fine and was up and running in no time (board turned out to be a peice of crap and ended up getting rid of it but still, it worked







)


----------



## rascas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> NB Core Voltage will be for your CPU-NB. At stock, would be around 1.18 Volts (On mine) Not sure about other chips though. But HWInfo64, AMD OverDrive, Aida64 shows the stock value. So go figure the final value after the offsets.
> 
> North Bridge or MOBO NB won't be any problem as it's value is already displayed in the BIOS.
> 
> Convention would be, add some offset to the NB Core if you are OC'ing the FSB as well as the CPU-NB from stock of 2200 MHz. MOBO NB will also need some bump if you are running the HT Link Frequency higher than stock of 2600.


Yeah mate, I figured that out eventually, stock vid is 1.13V, i tried setting to 257 fsb and running ram at 2400 like you suggested, but no matter how much voltage i added to nb core, i couldn't get it stable, tried up to 1.53V. The best setting i found was 265 fsb, nb running 2650 and ram at 2120 at 1.4V. Gave best performance.

Overall i am very happy with the board, learning where the sweet spots are, i just think don't have the best fx chip, it clock ok but the imc seems a little weak.


----------



## rascas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> im looking into getting the ud7 board and was wondering does the F11d beta bios add support for the 9370 and 9590 chips? or can they be ran in older bios or do i have to use a another chip to flash the bios to support the new chips?


I just bought the ud7 rev 3 and it supported my 9370 out of the box, no bios needed


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ozlay*
> 
> im looking into getting the ud7 board and was wondering does the F11d beta bios add support for the 9370 and 9590 chips? or can they be ran in older bios or do i have to use a another chip to flash the bios to support the new chips?
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought the ud7 rev 3 and it supported my 9370 out of the box, no bios needed
Click to expand...

2 things to note.

1
all 83xxs have fsb dead spots, they very per chip and the same chip can have different deadspots in different mobos. IE wont work 230-237 but 238 works fine

2 rev3 boards are unstable @ x12 cpu/nb multi. but fine @ x13 fyi


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Yeah mate, I figured that out eventually, stock vid is 1.13V, i tried setting to 257 fsb and running ram at 2400 like you suggested, but no matter how much voltage i added to nb core, i couldn't get it stable, tried up to 1.53V. The best setting i found was 265 fsb, nb running 2650 and ram at 2120 at 1.4V. Gave best performance.
> 
> Overall i am very happy with the board, learning where the sweet spots are, i just think don't have the best fx chip, it clock ok but the imc seems a little weak.


2400 RAM will need about 1.65 Volts or more to run on FX chips.
Timings will also be vital. I have tweaked things out on mine to learn those things.
But that might be dependent to the chip too.

I can run mine at 267, 2670 CPU-NB to give me a RAM clock of 2133 MHz.
Timings will depend though. at 4.66 GHz CPU clock, I can do it at 9-11-9-27 CR1 at 1.65 volts.
Higher CPU clocks will crash due to RAM. But bumping my RAM voltage up to 1.7volts and it can be stable.
Or loosen my timings to 10-12-10-30 CR1 at 1.65 Volts. (But my RAMs were just the lowly HyperX Genesis 1866) Not enough Headroom.

In my runs at 2400 RAM, I loosen my timings at 11-13-11-33 CR1 for me to be able to run them at 1.65 Volts.

Those are just the trick when chasing RAM Speeds. Voltage and Timings.
Tight Timings will require more Voltage. But since there's a limit on how much Voltage you can use, loosening the timings will be the only option upon reaching Voltage Ceilings. And with loose timings, come lower performance.

I'm happy running mine at 2000 at 9-11-9-27 with stock volts.


----------



## rascas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 2400 RAM will need about 1.65 Volts or more to run on FX chips.
> Timings will also be vital. I have tweaked things out on mine to learn those things.
> But that might be dependent to the chip too.
> 
> I can run mine at 267, 2670 CPU-NB to give me a RAM clock of 2133 MHz.
> Timings will depend though. at 4.66 GHz CPU clock, I can do it at 9-11-9-27 CR1 at 1.65 volts.
> Higher CPU clocks will crash due to RAM. But bumping my RAM voltage up to 1.7volts and it can be stable.
> Or loosen my timings to 10-12-10-30 CR1 at 1.65 Volts. (But my RAMs were just the lowly HyperX Genesis 1866) Not enough Headroom.
> 
> In my runs at 2400 RAM, I loosen my timings at 11-13-11-33 CR1 for me to be able to run them at 1.65 Volts.
> 
> Those are just the trick when chasing RAM Speeds. Voltage and Timings.
> Tight Timings will require more Voltage. But since there's a limit on how much Voltage you can use, loosening the timings will be the only option upon reaching Voltage Ceilings. And with loose timings, come lower performance.
> 
> I'm happy running mine at 2000 at 9-11-9-27 with stock volts.


G skill trident 2400 runs at 10-12-12-31 at 1.65 out of the box so I didn't want to loosen them anymore. But I guess I just need more time to fine tune. Any good suggestions for a program that will give me good results for overall system performance.
I use aida 64, cinebench 15 and 3dmarks vantage (cpu) scores to gain some idea for performance but what else could I use?


----------



## mus1mus

Those are the same benches I use. Cinebench can give you the performance index of both the CPU and RAM working together.
Aida will also be good.
3DMark CPU.

But to cut things short on the benches, pick one that will fit on what your rig will be. And focus on improving in that field.

GAMING, improve graphics performance of your rig.
Video Encoding, CPU and RAM will be more likely to impact things.


----------



## Mega Man

did you overvolt your ram? i need ~ 1.675 to overcome vdrop


----------



## rascas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> did you overvolt your ram? i need ~ 1.675 to overcome vdrop


Yep had the ram running at 1.68 for all tests, just to take that out of the equation. It seems like my dead spots were at all the fsb's I needed to make RAM work at 2400. I tried frequency's all the way up to 300 FSB. 295 would work with 1.4v nb core and then 297 would fail with up to 1.53v nb core.


----------



## Mega Man

that is one of my complaints with the ud7, they should of allowed a higher multi for the ram, wont even go into the rest....


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Is the previous problem still occur on the new UPS?


Thanks. The 900 watt one is holding strong









I also ordered this PS.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182264&nm_mc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r&cm_mmc=OTC-pr1c3grabb3r-_-Power+Supplies-_-Rosewill-_-17182264


----------



## dmfree88

good psu







. Plan to upgrade to that myself for CROSSFIREEEE 7870 someday














.


----------



## Mega Man

drm.... there is no such thing as sli 7870..... it is CROSSFIRE !!!!!


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> good psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Plan to upgrade to that myself for CROSSFIREEEE 7870 someday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yeah, they were having a $30 promotion that I wanted to get in on(ended last night), but I also wanted to use these amex rebate cards (for $20 and $60), so I used those cards to buy Newegg gift cards. Unfortunately, Newegg's website does not support partial cc payments. The order for the $20 gift card went through instantly and I was able to apply it to the PSU purchase, but the one for $60 got caught up in the "Order Verification" phase until just a few minutes ago.

I called up Newegg and asked them if I could redo or alter the PSU order (still in "Order Verification" phase) and apply the $60 card, and they would gladly redo the order, with the stipulation that I loose the $30 promotion. Also I'm apparently stuck with the $60 Newegg credit which I would have preferred to have left as amex









'That's a Bunch of Malarkey' - Joe Biden


----------



## dmfree88

Time to buy annother hdd or something with that 60







. Looks like u get more then u wanted


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Time to buy annother hdd or something with that 60
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Looks like u get more then u wanted


Actually, I'm not too worried because I'm running Windows 8.1 preview and I'll eventually need to buy an OS....

Just I'd have preferred Newegg work with me a little, I have spent a lot of money there over the years...


----------



## dmfree88

There too big to care no matter how much youve spent


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> Actually, I'm not too worried because I'm running Windows 8.1 preview and I'll eventually need to buy an OS....
> 
> Just I'd have preferred Newegg work with me a little, I have spent a lot of money there over the years...


It is not that they don't care but that they simply cannot do it. Most of the promotions they run are them losing profit to keep customers such as ourselves that DO graciously spend at their store. While I understand your position and empathize look back at how many sales you took advantage of where a rebate didn't apply then recalculate who actually came out on top. Neweeg is gigantic no doubt buy are not a manufacturer and therefor always buy in a margin. With the occasional item and sale combo that margin gets cut exponentially and it is for that reason they could not work with you because if they did it with you then they would legally be held to do it with a possible other 100+ accounts in the same or similar situation resulting in even more of a loss.
Sorry for the lack of punctuation but I am on my phone.
Alternatively if you get in contact with the right agent you may be able to have the price difference of actual vs sale reduced on another item at another time or even accredited to your account or given in form of a gift card. I recently debated their warehouse deeming fedexs ability to coincidentally deliver within three days via standard counted and charged as expedited when it was not and I got my 16 dollar shipping charge refunded because regardless of whether fedex delivered in three days I didnt pay for standard shipping. I paid for expedited and dont appreciate them charging me for something they did t apply to the order basically allowing them to keep the 16 dollars as profit which was stealing from me.


----------



## istudy92

So just a general update on my 8320 on UD3

I took advise using the LLC thread and such,

I was able to reduce temp by 7-13C on average under load with folding by decreasing voltage of .5 down to .25 at 4.4 OC by increasing LLC from High--> extreme with it being stable.

down from 62-66C to 53c-55C


----------



## mus1mus

That's a huge improvement on your part!!






























But personally, I'm not having good results with using Extreme LLC. The Voltage Delta is so huge IMO. Could swing more than 0.100 Volts minimum to maximum. Though I haven't really tested it out to figure out the behaviour of the voltages while under stress.

And by the looks of how things work on mine, Extreme LLC at +0.000, already has the Vcore much higher than stock. Stock VID around 1.337. Extreme LLC would be around 1.4ish without any added offset.

But from what you got, it'll probably be better for you to stay at the same setting you have now.


----------



## istudy92

Yeah, but one factor that MAY be important is also I changed case, from HAF 912-->Azza 2000 Hurrican, also winter is upon my area, ambient temperature around my office (my office has 9 windows in a small space) to around 20C or 50f-65F i do not turn on heat at my small office at home.
Perhaps these are factors in lowered temperature as well=/
But still good.
Ima try to increase my OC to 4.6-7 with these new enviroment factors ha!

Edit: so yeah I went and bumped up my volt to .05 and got clocks up to 4.6 OC, I will keep it folding overnight to determine if its stable, I assume it does the same as prime 95 since all cores are at 100%!

I also want to add that my case has a back fan that blows behind the MOBO right behind the VRM which is keeping it cooler than CPU itself!!
Essentially a 120mm on outside than a 60mm inside mobo.(I'll take pics)

But now my next issue is this,
I see my multipler switch from 22 to 17 back and fourth how is that fixed more volts or...llc, or something COMPLETLY diffrient? APM? Where is that turned off.


----------



## dmfree88

Folding does not do the same as p95. If u return an minor error folding it will likely continue to run. P95 stops running if theres failure. Folding errors will do nothing but delay finding the cure.. i would atleast try ibt avx prior to verify mostly stable

Apm if not available in bios may have to be disabled in windows


----------



## istudy92

Okayama hen ill run p95 at night

What's ibt Avx? Typo?

APM should be found in CCC or..somewhere else?


----------



## unknown601

I cant find my name on the list?









http://valid.canardpc.com/v2504x


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Okayama hen ill run p95 at night
> 
> What's ibt Avx? Typo?
> 
> APM should be found in CCC or..somewhere else?


nope check the OP of the 83xx thread in my sig !

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> I cant find my name on the list?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/v2504x


that is because you are an unknown !


----------



## dracconus

Iwill be posting my verification later today. Several other clu s ivalidated to haven't added me either so dont feel bad.


----------



## ginger_nuts

*THIS* appears to be the best I can get stable









My temps also max at 60 Celsius







BUT I have a D5 waiting and a 240 monsta waiting to go in along with a bunch of Gelid fans


----------



## Soundigy

Hello guys,

I just bought all new components, among motherboard '*GA-990FXA-UD3* (*rev. 4.0*)' and I have strange 'issue?' which I'll try to describe:

1. When I power up PC, it starts, than goes off for a 2-3 seconds, than boot normally, so basicly it goes on-off-on normally.

2. When I press hardware 'reset' key on my case, PC shuts down completely, then boots normally after 2-3 seconds.

3. When restart my PC from Windows, PC shuts down, then boots after 2-3 seconds.

4. When I change something in BIOS, than 'save and exit', PC shuts down, than boots after 2-3sec.

******Note*: It seems that everything works fine, ONLY on default settings in BIOS.
If I only disable _*'clock core bost'*_ 'problem' starts. Also with multipler.

Is this normal behavior?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I just bought all new components, among motherboard '*GA-990FXA-UD3* (*rev. 4.0*)' and I have strange 'issue?' which I'll try to describe:
> 
> 1. When I power up PC, it starts, than goes off for a 2-3 seconds, than boot normally, so basicly it goes on-off-on normally.
> 
> 2. When I press hardware 'reset' key on my case, PC shuts down completely, then boots normally after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 3. When restart my PC from Windows, PC shuts down, then boots after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 4. When I change something in BIOS, than 'save and exit', PC shuts down, than boots after 2-3sec.
> 
> ******Note*: It seems that everything works fine, ONLY on default settings in BIOS.
> If I only disable _*'clock core bost'*_ 'problem' starts. Also with multipler.
> 
> Is this normal behavior?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


#1 I had but it stopped; not sure what I changed but I press start and it starts in 1 go now instead of on-off-on; an explanation of this would be ace.

#2 I didn't even install a reset button; why bother?

#3, and #4 normal boot delay.

What kind of "problems"?


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> #1 I had but it stopped; not sure what I changed but I press start and it starts in 1 go now instead of on-off-on; an explanation of this would be ace.
> 
> #2 I didn't even install a reset button; why bother?
> 
> #3, and #4 normal boot delay.
> 
> What kind of "problems"?


Sounds like a faulty board to me. I'd suggest resetting the cmos, and see if that clears it up, if not, then update/downgrade the bios to see if that changes anything.
If neither of those fixes the issue I'd start with RMA'ing the board first, then the processor if it continues.

Make sure that the motherboard is installed on it's standoffs correctly, and that there isn't anything touching the PCB or solder connections behind the motherboard. A buddy of mine that thought he could build his own system installed the motherboard directly onto the motherboard tray, and had VERY similar issues because the steel was shorting out the reset connection, and jumping it to the power.


----------



## Soundigy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I just bought all new components, among motherboard '*GA-990FXA-UD3* (*rev. 4.0*)' and I have strange 'issue?' which I'll try to describe:
> 
> 1. When I power up PC, it starts, than goes off for a 2-3 seconds, than boot normally, so basicly it goes on-off-on normally.
> 
> 2. When I press hardware 'reset' key on my case, PC shuts down completely, then boots normally after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 3. When restart my PC from Windows, PC shuts down, then boots after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 4. When I change something in BIOS, than 'save and exit', PC shuts down, than boots after 2-3sec.
> 
> ******Note*: It seems that everything works fine, ONLY on default settings in BIOS.
> If I only disable _*'clock core bost'*_ 'problem' starts. Also with multipler.
> 
> Is this normal behavior?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I found that a lot of people having this behavior with *rev. 4.0*, here in this topic too, but I can't find if is it possible to OC without this behavior.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I just bought all new components, among motherboard '*GA-990FXA-UD3* (*rev. 4.0*)' and I have strange 'issue?' which I'll try to describe:
> 
> 1. When I power up PC, it starts, than goes off for a 2-3 seconds, than boot normally, so basicly it goes on-off-on normally.
> 
> 2. When I press hardware 'reset' key on my case, PC shuts down completely, then boots normally after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 3. When restart my PC from Windows, PC shuts down, then boots after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 4. When I change something in BIOS, than 'save and exit', PC shuts down, than boots after 2-3sec.
> 
> ******Note*: It seems that everything works fine, ONLY on default settings in BIOS.
> If I only disable _*'clock core bost'*_ 'problem' starts. Also with multipler.
> 
> Is this normal behavior?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


If its because of turbo core you need to disable apm aswell. If u dont have that option in bios you gotta use ccc to disable turbo core which will automatically disable apm. This should fix the problem


----------



## Soundigy

No, I disabled apm, cool and c.... etc.

I found the video here on forum, this is what I'm talking about.


----------



## dmfree88

i have also seen people actually try enabling turbo core and setting it to the same clock as cpu. So if your at 4.5ghz set turbo to 4.5ghz.. this basically renders it useless anyways but keeps it enabled. Have seen reports of this working for reboot issues aswell.

but i have also seen that disabling in CCC is usually difficult but do-able, this may still be the problem sometimes it takes like 2-3 tries to make it work. sometimes you have to keep it enabled in bios, then disable in CCC and restart the PC like twice to make it work. If all else fails just try to keep it enabled hopefully that will work. Shouldn't effect stability or anything if its set to same clock as cpu.


----------



## rascas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> No, I disabled apm, cool and c.... etc.
> 
> I found the video here on forum, this is what I'm talking about.


I had a similar issue with my UD7, i had CPU unlock enabled, as soon as i disabled it the problem went away. Worth a try


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

The board isn't faulty. Even the Rev 3 does this. Its annoying as ****. You can also stop it from happening by leaving the CPU multi on Auto and overclocking with the FSB with turbo core disabled.


----------



## Soundigy

^ yap, probbably it can be only stopped like that, or as _dmfree88_ said by enabling turbo core.

The board isn't faulty, it's probbably some kind of annoying protection.


----------



## dmfree88

when i press reset sometimes the lights turn off and you can hear the reset other times they dont and it just stays running silent during the reset  really doesnt bother me though so i figured it doesnt matter.. Seems effected by what gpu i put in here.. the last 650ti boost i had caused a 2nd bios screen during boot that took an extra 2-3 seconds everytime (i know it was the gpu cause it said nvidia something or other and stopped when gpu was replaced), nothing major but was annoying. I think its just hardware hiccups, things werent built for eachother specifically and dont work %100 on every feature, nothing ever seems to.


----------



## Auisce

My PC won't stay in sleep; it just wakes up on its own at some point.
There's no wake on lan set up or anything that I can see.

Any ideas?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought all new components, among motherboard '*GA-990FXA-UD3* (*rev. 4.0*)' and I have strange 'issue?' which I'll try to describe:
> 
> 1. When I power up PC, it starts, than goes off for a 2-3 seconds, than boot normally, so basicly it goes on-off-on normally.
> 
> 2. When I press hardware 'reset' key on my case, PC shuts down completely, then boots normally after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 3. When restart my PC from Windows, PC shuts down, then boots after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 4. When I change something in BIOS, than 'save and exit', PC shuts down, than boots after 2-3sec.
> 
> ******Note*: It seems that everything works fine, ONLY on default settings in BIOS.
> If I only disable _*'clock core bost'*_ 'problem' starts. Also with multipler.
> 
> Is this normal behavior?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I just bought all new components, among motherboard '*GA-990FXA-UD3* (*rev. 4.0*)' and I have strange 'issue?' which I'll try to describe:
> 
> 1. When I power up PC, it starts, than goes off for a 2-3 seconds, than boot normally, so basicly it goes on-off-on normally.
> 
> 2. When I press hardware 'reset' key on my case, PC shuts down completely, then boots normally after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 3. When restart my PC from Windows, PC shuts down, then boots after 2-3 seconds.
> 
> 4. When I change something in BIOS, than 'save and exit', PC shuts down, than boots after 2-3sec.
> 
> ******Note*: It seems that everything works fine, ONLY on default settings in BIOS.
> If I only disable _*'clock core bost'*_ 'problem' starts. Also with multipler.
> 
> Is this normal behavior?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that a lot of people having this behavior with *rev. 4.0*, here in this topic too, but I can't find if is it possible to OC without this behavior.
Click to expand...

yep normal. turbocore is the only way i know how to "fix" this. does not mean there are not other ways


----------



## bbond007

One odd behavior I notice with my (rev 4) is that if the computer does not shut down properly, (for example. at one point I lost power because I overloaded the UPS, and another time I just frustrated and turned V8 off because the video driver was stoned), the machine will get to the point in the post process with the Gigabyte logo and the text options option at the bottom (F12 boot menu, DEL for setup, etc)... Anyway it just freezes there (GA logo remains, F12 and DEL options disappear) and the only way to get it to do anything after that point is to turn it completely off for several seconds and cold boot. Reset and the power button do nothing... Anyway, after that occurs, that cycle will continue to happen until I enter the BIOS, make no changes but just save and exit. Also pressing F12 and selecting the default drive (the drive I would boot off of anyway) seems to fix it without entering the bios. Once it successfully gets past that point, its good to go for future boots. The machine is very stable and always shuts down properly (unless I'm abusing it) so this has only happened to me 3 or 4 times, but the first time I reset the CMOS with the jumper to fix it.

I did not recall this happening prior to eliminating the false-start by setting the turbo=multiplier and leaving boost enabled. I'm definitely not saying that is the cause though and I've done some other stuff like replace the SATA cables with sorter ones....


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> My PC won't stay in sleep; it just wakes up on its own at some point.
> There's no wake on lan set up or anything that I can see.
> 
> Any ideas?


usually this has to do with the hardware wake up feature. Also you need to have a couple of the power saving features enabled in order to sleep aswell.

Its usually like it wakes up from the printer being on or something stupid. Have to go into power options advanced settings and check to see that these are disabled:



Theres another place to change whether it allows usb or pci to wake from sleep. I cant remember where that setting is though. Heres a document that should get you the answer to whats causing it AND help you fix it:

http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/how-to/windows/3433604/how-prevent-your-pc-from-waking-up-in-sleep-mode/


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> My PC won't stay in sleep; it just wakes up on its own at some point.
> There's no wake on lan set up or anything that I can see.
> 
> Any ideas?


heres mine !
1 get a ssd !
2 dont put your pc to sleep ! ( ssds hate sleep ! )
3 you will love it !


----------



## dracconus

Here's my validation for the club membership

http://valid.canardpc.com/fqh8m1


----------



## bbond007

If you happen to be using your GA-990FXA US3 REV4 to charge your extra PS4 dualshock4 controller, be forewarned that leaving said device attached to your USB port will screw up your BIOS menus and it will seem to jump to certain options and get stuck there...

kind of off-topic, but this app and driver combo will get the PS4 controller working with Windows games pretty well









http://forums.pcsx2.net/Thread-DS4-To-XInput-Wrapper


----------



## Mega Man

mine does that without having one installed. ( the jumping, never gets stuck though )


----------



## Obakemono

My HD sound header decided to stop working today after I was doing some cable management, and I have no clue what on earth happened. I plugged it in and out to make sure it was seated correctly, and even did the same with the machine on with my headset plugged into the case headers, still no luck. Thoughts? (UD7 v.1.0)


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> No, I disabled apm, cool and c.... etc.
> 
> I found the video here on forum, this is what I'm talking about.


yup, I posted those awhile ago... glad to see I'm not the only one with these problems. (not that I'm glad your having problems with the board ....)

I now somehow don't have the " double boot" problem... I now have this annoying issue where restarting hangs for a while until the bios tells me that there was a problem and I have to enter the bios and save and exit to get it to boot... EVERY reboot. incredibly annoying...


----------



## dmfree88

Have you tried all the possible fixes mentioned on the past few pages?

My ud5 will hang during boot then say error if doing certain fsb clocks or northbridge clocks aswell try messing with fsb maybe?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> check it out guys what do you think of my new overcock on this chip, i think it is the max i will take it
> 
> 
> it only hit 63 in a temp spike lasted less then 1 /10 a sec...
> make sure to take a look at HT and cpu/nb.... while on that subject
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i played around a bit yesterday, what do you think


figured i would share. i would be able to go ALOT higher if my ht/cpu/nb was not so high.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Have you tried all the possible fixes mentioned on the past few pages?
> 
> My ud5 will hang during boot then say error if doing certain fsb clocks or northbridge clocks aswell try messing with fsb maybe?


great suggestion... that was exactly the issue... changed around my OC with a lower FSB... and walla!

Thanks for the tip! Now my system restarts and boots the way it should!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> figured i would share. i would be able to go ALOT higher if my ht/cpu/nb was not so high.


Its an okay score, not that impressive to be honest.

I am on 4.8 as well and do not see any performance degradation going from 5ghz to 4.8 only in benchmarks there is an difference but in real time usage you will not even notice.

Also i set my RAM to stock again because i do not benefit from any faster RAM than 1866 at the moment. In games you don't see a difference (maybe in the newer games)

I too noticed that windows feels a lot faster with my stock RAM.

Let me ask you something Mega, do you benefit from faster RAM and high HT speed?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> great suggestion... that was exactly the issue... changed around my OC with a lower FSB... and walla!
> 
> Thanks for the tip! Now my system restarts and boots the way it should!


Good to know it works. Were you at stock fsb before? Whatd u end up going to?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Good to know it works. Were you at stock fsb before? Whatd u end up going to?


I was @ 250 FSB which I like as it's easy to get the NB and memory speeds right in line. But I dropped it to 215 with tweaked multi's :

Heres the other pictures to help understand the full picture and settings:


----------



## dmfree88

Nice ya glad it worked. My ud5 doesnt like ANY fsb oc over 220. I tried like 40 different combo of clocks finally ended up on 208. It sucked cuz it was running smooth as butter at 222 with gflops 95 plus but after 3 runs of ibt would hard freeze everytime. Managed to get almost just as good at 208 though 94 gflops or more, doesn't feel quite as smooth though

Was getting around 91 gflop min before fsb oc so im happy to finally get it working and too actually see the improvement. If i hadnt had so much trouble with it recently i may have never thought to say anything bout it. Strange how things fall together sometimes


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> [name="dmfree88" url="/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/7920_40#post_21208937"]Nice ya glad it orked. My ud5 doesnt like ANY fsb oc over 220. I tried like 40 different combo of clocks finally ended up on 208. It sucked cuz it was running smooth as butter at 222 with gflops 95 plus but after 3 runs of ibt would hard freeze everytime. Managed to get almost just as good at 208 though 94 gflops or more, doesn't feel quite as smooth though
> 
> Was getting around 91 gflop min before fsb oc so im happy to finally get it working and too actually see the improvement. If i hadnt had so much trouble with it recently i may have never thought to say anything bout it. Strange how things fall together sometimes


well I'm glad you said something, I was just to live it. Lol. and your right, my next best bet was to try 220-225 fsb... but no dice. Board just doesnt like it. Now between my horrible clocking chip and moody memory, at least I have 4.75 stable.


----------



## dmfree88

Haha ya my chip sucks too. Worst part is my cooler is on the fine line where one click up in vcore will stabilize 4.7 and 4.8 but its too hot. Hoping a 3rd fan plus one more blowing on the top of the heatsink from the side panel will get me there


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Haha ya my chip sucks too. Worst part is my cooler is on the fine line where one click up in vcore will stabilize 4.7 and 4.8 but its too hot. Hoping a 3rd fan plus one more blowing on the top of the heatsink from the side panel will get me there


heh, agreed. my h220 keeps mine below the 60c mark... but the 1.55v load voltage @ 4.7keeps me from going higher. I jut got in on the wrong batch I think. I'm going to polish up the lap job and use some of this lmu TIM I picked up and see if u can't cool it down a tad more. thanks again for the insight however... sometime you just need a outside perspective. ;-)


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> heh, agreed. my h220 keeps mine below the 60c mark... but the 1.55v load voltage @ 4.7keeps me from going higher. I jut got in on the wrong batch I think. I'm going to polish up the lap job and use some of this lmu TIM I picked up and see if u can't cool it down a tad more. thanks again for the insight however... sometime you just need a outside perspective. ;-)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Nice ya glad it worked. My ud5 doesnt like ANY fsb oc over 220. I tried like 40 different combo of clocks finally ended up on 208. It sucked cuz it was running smooth as butter at 222 with gflops 95 plus but after 3 runs of ibt would hard freeze everytime. Managed to get almost just as good at 208 though 94 gflops or more, doesn't feel quite as smooth though
> 
> Was getting around 91 gflop min before fsb oc so im happy to finally get it working and too actually see the improvement. If i hadnt had so much trouble with it recently i may have never thought to say anything bout it. Strange how things fall together sometimes


Not sure what you guys at. But hearing both of you struggling with FSB OC seemed strange TBH. So just checking on your settings guys. Not sure if you have already tried these but here it is.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not sure what you guys at. But hearing both of you struggling with FSB OC seemed strange TBH. So just checking on your settings guys. Not sure if you have already tried these but here it is.


yep, for sure that the lack of a actual multi on HT link and NB makes it a bit of a pain... but a quick notch with a calculator and your right on track. I'm currently running 2150nb and 2580HT.









Good lookin' out though!

Still trying to find a way to keep 4.8 full load stable... At least the thing reboots like it should... saves so much time when flipping switches...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> figured i would share. i would be able to go ALOT higher if my ht/cpu/nb was not so high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am on 4.8 as well and do not see any performance degradation going from 5ghz to 4.8 only in benchmarks there is an difference but in real time usage you will not even notice.
> 
> Also i set my RAM to stock again because i do not benefit from any faster RAM than 1866 at the moment. In games you don't see a difference (maybe in the newer games)
> 
> I too noticed that windows feels a lot faster with my stock RAM.
> 
> Let me ask you something Mega, do you benefit from faster RAM and high HT speed?
Click to expand...

whats your highest adia again ?

something i didnt share as i was out the door is all those tests were at different volts this is my most recent

+ht is @ 3900,

i could push much farther if i didnt do that

i will push my chip much farther once i get my fans up and running ( i thought i bought my cables.... been waiting.... and well... found out i didnt lol )

whats your best again ?

just wanna compare, but iirc we are neck in neck

to answer your questions. yes i do notice a HUGE difference in gaming with high HT+cpu/nb but that is due to quadfire. + eyefinity enough to see the difference from 60-80fps to 120+fps

* also to note i am running 8gb sticks which are much harder on the imc then the 4gb sticks you are

** granted 3900 ht is direct overkill but meh... thats what i do


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not sure what you guys at. But hearing both of you struggling with FSB OC seemed strange TBH. So just checking on your settings guys. Not sure if you have already tried these but here it is.


Yes sir i have rev 1.1 so mines a lil different but i used only fsb ocs that came out to close to stock. Was a pain due to ram multiplier but htlink i always kept less then stock and i was trying to get a minor oc on nb throughout (literally around 2250 not even over 2300). Im at a higher northbridge now then i was through my entire attempts fsb ocing. Even when it seemed stable it would produce positive ibt results then hard freeze. Even at 222. I tried basically every possible combo to put me at the same clocks including more volts on northbridge and almost always the same results. When i hit 300 plus it just wouldnt boot. I dunno ill try taking photo of my bios see what you guys think.


----------



## dmfree88

So heres stable no freezes:




Heres stable, but after 3 runs of IBT AVX returning positive results it freezes:


Even tried adding some to cpu/nb just to be sure aswell as pushed northbridge volts to 1.3 at one point:


Obviously the ram is higher clocked but I already had loosened timings and verified stability at 1866 with normal multi oc. Really didnt have much of a choice as ram multi is very limiting otherwise i would have ran it close to the same but i know the ram was stable at either setting. Trying to push my multi on htlink now to see if i can atleast push it to an overclocked setting rather then under xD. Although i have a feeling its fairly useless with my ram







.

EDIT:
Tried 211 and it worked fine aswell so obviously there really wasnt a instability at 222 it just doesnt work. seems strange that there would be dead spots. I wonder what causes something like this? Or is it just too high? Once i go over 300 wont even post and 280 freezes before i even open IBT. around 220-230-250 i get freezes after 2-4 runs ibt. My dead spot is anything high







. Still seems strange though i see no reason for it to freeze. As you can see below though if i were to consider IBT AVX stable then i could probably be at 4.7-4.8ghz (just to those doubting the NH-D14







) but p95 pushes some heat.



Was reading on pci-e cuz i was wondering if somehow this is connected to the bus speed (as i thought it used to be) which turns out i dont think it is (only reason mines at 101 cause it seems to droop to 99 if at 100, 100=99, 101=100). But check out this post i found kinda interesting:
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-37475.html

from what i understand bus speed used to be connected to pci-e which is why it was very difficult to OC in the past. Is it possible that whatever they have done recently to "seperate" it has still left some functionality connected? So when they are at speeds that dont co-op well it fails? Just thinking I guess thought id see what you guys thought about it.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> So heres stable no freezes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heres stable, but after 3 runs of IBT AVX returning positive results it freezes:
> 
> 
> Even tried adding some to cpu/nb just to be sure aswell as pushed northbridge volts to 1.3 at one point:
> 
> 
> Obviously the ram is higher clocked but I already had loosened timings and verified stability at 1866 with normal multi oc. Really didnt have much of a choice as ram multi is very limiting otherwise i would have ran it close to the same but i know the ram was stable at either setting. Trying to push my multi on htlink now to see if i can atleast push it to an overclocked setting rather then under xD. Although i have a feeling its fairly useless with my ram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> EDIT:
> Tried 211 and it worked fine aswell so obviously there really wasnt a instability at 222 it just doesnt work. seems strange that there would be dead spots. I wonder what causes something like this? Or is it just too high? Once i go over 300 wont even post and 280 freezes before i even open IBT. around 220-230-250 i get freezes after 2-4 runs ibt. My dead spot is anything high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Still seems strange though i see no reason for it to freeze. As you can see below though if i were to consider IBT AVX stable then i could probably be at 4.7-4.8ghz (just to those doubting the NH-D14
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but p95 pushes some heat.
> 
> 
> 
> Was reading on pci-e cuz i was wondering if somehow this is connected to the bus speed (as i thought it used to be) which turns out i dont think it is (only reason mines at 101 cause it seems to droop to 99 if at 100, 100=99, 101=100). But check out this post i found kinda interesting:
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-37475.html
> 
> from what i understand bus speed used to be connected to pci-e which is why it was very difficult to OC in the past. Is it possible that whatever they have done recently to "seperate" it has still left some functionality connected? So when they are at speeds that dont co-op well it fails? Just thinking I guess thought id see what you guys thought about it.


Seriously, that's very weird. Might have grabbed a lazy chip!! Anyway, Can you you point me out to your RAM timings please??

It really seemed like chip quality varies by a lot.

Also, I experienced on mine, FSB OC really need a bump on the CPU-NB Voltage. At 250, I need mine to be at least +0.100 on the offset. Anything lower and I'm unstable.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> whats your highest adia again ?
> 
> something i didnt share as i was out the door is all those tests were at different volts this is my most recent
> 
> +ht is @ 3900,
> 
> i could push much farther if i didnt do that
> 
> i will push my chip much farther once i get my fans up and running ( i thought i bought my cables.... been waiting.... and well... found out i didnt lol )
> 
> whats your best again ?
> 
> just wanna compare, but iirc we are neck in neck
> 
> to answer your questions. yes i do notice a HUGE difference in gaming with high HT+cpu/nb but that is due to quadfire. + eyefinity enough to see the difference from 60-80fps to 120+fps
> 
> * also to note i am running 8gb sticks which are much harder on the imc then the 4gb sticks you are
> 
> ** granted 3900 ht is direct overkill but meh... thats what i do


This is my best Aida score:



And this was on CR1:



I am at stock RAM and HT and CPU/NB, i only have my CPU to 4.8 with 1.520 volts and that gives me the best performance so far. I did try to overclock my RAM, HT and CPU/NB but the only thing i gained was unstable system that was running way to hot in my opinion.

Faster RAM will not be beneficial in games but maybe when you run more than 1 GPU it does.


----------



## mus1mus

By the way,

MY CRAZY OC!!!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> By the way,
> 
> MY CRAZY OC!!!


Looks good mate









I did run some tests with my HTC one too







now i overclocked it and do it again and see how fast this phone really is


----------



## mus1mus

We might be called trolls in here.

Anyway, just for fun..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> We might be called trolls in here.
> 
> Anyway, just for fun..


LOL ye this is fun









I did finish my test but can't post screenshot but this is my score:

7984 total score

graphics score: 7220

physics score: 12677

graphics test 1: 38

graphic test 2: 26,7

Pretty good score for an HTC phone if you ask me


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> This is my best Aida score:
> 
> 
> 
> And this was on CR1:
> 
> 
> 
> I am at stock RAM and HT and CPU/NB, i only have my CPU to 4.8 with 1.520 volts and that gives me the best performance so far. I did try to overclock my RAM, HT and CPU/NB but the only thing i gained was unstable system that was running way to hot in my opinion.
> 
> Faster RAM will not be beneficial in games but maybe when you run more than 1 GPU it does.


currently i put them back to 9-9-9-24 for the 208/211 fsb oc but they were on 11-11-11-30 before because i knew it was stable at 1866. I actually was just posting about it on other page:

with 1866 widened timings (stock timings will not stabilize even 1.7v):

normal 1600 CR1 with cpu OC'd 4.6 (notice stock fsb is 201 for whatever reason always has been when set to auto):

FSB bump to 211 CR2 (2 is stock):

Its almost a happy balance between the first 2. Will be better if I get FSB up a bit more.

Ill try pushing fsb further tomorrow, i might get close to 120 atleast







. I dont have time now its like 4AM im goin to bed xD.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> LOL ye this is fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did finish my test but can't post screenshot but this is my score:
> 
> 7984 total score
> 
> graphics score: 7220
> 
> physics score: 12677
> 
> graphics test 1: 38
> 
> graphic test 2: 26,7
> 
> Pretty good score for an HTC phone if you ask me


Well, turned out you got better specs on your phone compared to my tablet mate. But people said that the S600 and the S4 Pro were actually the same chips albeit the former being much highly binned.

I'm using ElementalX Kernel to OC mine btw. And yeah, I finally got Kitkat running perfectly running a while ago.


----------



## hurricane28

I guess so, i must say that its pretty fast.

Ye most phones use the same chip only under a different name.

I use the 3.4.10 ElementalX 4.2+ kernel and overclocked my phone to 1.8 ghz to be honest


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> currently i put them back to 9-9-9-24 for the 208/211 fsb oc but they were on 11-11-11-30 before because i knew it was stable at 1866. I actually was just posting about it on other page:
> 
> with 1866 widened timings (stock timings will not stabilize even 1.7v):
> 
> normal 1600 CR1 with cpu OC'd 4.6 (notice stock fsb is 201 for whatever reason always has been when set to auto):
> 
> FSB bump to 211 CR2 (2 is stock):
> 
> Its almost a happy balance between the first 2. Will be better if I get FSB up a bit more.
> 
> Ill try pushing fsb further tomorrow, i might get close to 120 atleast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I dont have time now its like 4AM im goin to bed xD.


why are you using FSB to overclock your RAM if i may ask?

I have multiplier that goes to X12 that makes 2400MHz on the RAM.

Also you have RAM profiles that you can select in the bios.

Also 1866 RAM mostly clocks better than 1600 because its higher binned. Most RAM comes from stock 1333 MHz RAM to be honest, you can look it up at the G.Skill page.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I guess so, i must say that its pretty fast.
> 
> Ye most phones use the same chip only under a different name.
> 
> I use the 3.4.10 ElementalX 4.2+ kernel and overclocked my phone to 1.8 ghz to be honest


You have a better procie I believe. But we have the same adreno 320 GPU. I don't know if you have observed but my tab won't give good scores when I have my CPU higher than 1.844 GHz. I can see my frames bouncing higher on the upper end but also worse on the lower end compared to what I can get with 1.732 GHz and 532 on the GPU. Must be some kind of throttling or instability.

Anyway, 1.732 GHz quad is already on the S600 territory, so that's cool for me. ? ?

I would also say that KitKat was way smoother than JB. And run my tab cooler too. ?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> why are you using FSB to overclock your RAM if i may ask?
> 
> I have multiplier that goes to X12 that makes 2400MHz on the RAM.
> 
> Also you have RAM profiles that you can select in the bios.
> 
> Also 1866 RAM mostly clocks better than 1600 because its higher binned. Most RAM comes from stock 1333 MHz RAM to be honest, you can look it up at the G.Skill page.


because my ram sucks? it takes 1.65v to get 11-11-11-30 1866 stable. I get better results at 9-9-9-24 1600 and with fsb can push the OC with the same timings. 1.7v refuses to boot at 1866 9-9-9-24 so i really dont have that great of ram and it doesn't seem to want to OC well. I have seen others get good results with ripjaws but I either got a bad pair or bad IMC on my chip cause it just doesn't like to OC without getting worse results. I guess I could try 10-10-10-27 see what happens at 1866 but I think i already tried and failed iirc.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You have a better procie I believe. But we have the same adreno 320 GPU. I don't know if you have observed but my tab won't give good scores when I have my CPU higher than 1.844 GHz. I can see my frames bouncing higher on the upper end but also worse on the lower end compared to what I can get with 1.732 GHz and 532 on the GPU. Must be some kind of throttling or instability.
> 
> Anyway, 1.732 GHz quad is already on the S600 territory, so that's cool for me. ? ?
> 
> I would also say that KitKat was way smoother than JB. And run my tab cooler too. ?


Ah okay, well most tablets or phones use the same GPU as CPU anyway.

I am fine with 1.8.. and it does not drain the battery that much so i am very pleased with its performance right now









Also i don't use my phone for games or things like that, the most i do with it is SMS, calling whatsapp and some light internet stuff like YouTube and such.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> because my ram sucks? it takes 1.65v to get 11-11-11-30 1866 stable. I get better results at 9-9-9-24 1600 and with fsb can push the OC with the same timings. 1.7v refuses to boot at 1866 9-9-9-24 so i really dont have that great of ram and it doesn't seem to want to OC well. I have seen others get good results with ripjaws but I either got a bad pair or bad IMC on my chip cause it just doesn't like to OC without getting worse results. I guess I could try 10-10-10-27 see what happens at 1866 but I think i already tried and failed iirc.


That's a bummer man.

It has nothing to do with your IMC mate because all 8350's can handle up to 1866 native so its definitely your RAM that sucks.

I think because its 1600Mhz RAM because i had 1600 RAM too and it would not clock any higher than that, also I've heard that most 1600 RAM are bad overclockers because its lower binned than 1866 from 1333.

So if you want faster RAM i would suggest to get 1866 with the lowest timings you can find and make sure its low voltage so that you have plenty of head room for overclocking.

As for brand, most people don't go wrong with G.Skill and i am one of them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> whats your highest adia again ?
> 
> something i didnt share as i was out the door is all those tests were at different volts this is my most recent
> 
> +ht is @ 3900,
> 
> i could push much farther if i didnt do that
> 
> i will push my chip much farther once i get my fans up and running ( i thought i bought my cables.... been waiting.... and well... found out i didnt lol )
> 
> whats your best again ?
> 
> just wanna compare, but iirc we are neck in neck
> 
> to answer your questions. yes i do notice a HUGE difference in gaming with high HT+cpu/nb but that is due to quadfire. + eyefinity enough to see the difference from 60-80fps to 120+fps
> 
> * also to note i am running 8gb sticks which are much harder on the imc then the 4gb sticks you are
> 
> ** granted 3900 ht is direct overkill but meh... thats what i do
> 
> 
> 
> This is my best Aida score:
> 
> 
> 
> And this was on CR1:
> 
> 
> 
> I am at stock RAM and HT and CPU/NB, i only have my CPU to 4.8 with 1.520 volts and that gives me the best performance so far. I did try to overclock my RAM, HT and CPU/NB but the only thing i gained was unstable system that was running way to hot in my opinion.
> 
> Faster RAM will not be beneficial in games but maybe when you run more than 1 GPU it does.
Click to expand...

no faster ram is just fun to say i have, although i do notice a difference in many things.

ht is for gpus


----------



## darkelixa

When I play ffxiv a realm reborn with my i5 4670k, z87-ud3h 16gb ram,128gb samsung ssd nvidia 770gtx 2gb i get weird choppiness with my fps, the frame rate stays at 60+fps with vsync on but on the monitor it looks like a little screen tearing/looks like the frame rate jumps a beat, will chaning to this gigabyte mainboard and an amd 8350 solve the issue, or is it more so a gpu issue? I see alot of problems with nvidia gpus and that game so idk if i should change ship and just buy an amd video card


----------



## dmfree88

Try changing pre rendered frames. First to 0 see how it feels then to 5(max) see how it feels. I cant remember what its called for nvidia but it helped me alot i know theres a setting in control panel though. I am pretty sure an 8350 likely wont fix your problem


----------



## Ulquiorra

Goooood afternoon guys







hope your all well ^_^. im currently speccing up a GPU computational box for work (well cheking over the specs of one), and the motherboard is a

Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7

The graphics cards are 2X 7970X2 (tripple slot) (omnom xD)

From what i can tell the cards will fit it taking up all but one PCI Slot (yay can get inifiband), and was just wondering if someone could say yes looks good or no your being a idiot and missing something,

The entire spec is >

Code:



Code:


Graphics:            Radeon HD 7970 x3                                       £700
Motherboard:            Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7                          £160
CPU:                    AMD FX-8150                                     £115
RAM:                    Corsair CMZ16GX3M2A1866C9 Vengeance     £100
PSU:                    G1600-MA-EU                                     £190
Case:                   Aerocool Bx-500 Black Edition Midi Tower Case   £65     
Hard Disk:              Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM x3                £160
Cooling:                Arctic Fans                                             £40

And its kind of a proof of concept box that ive finnaly been approved of getting and dont want to get it wrong!

Thanks in advance for any and all help you can give on if the cards fit!


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulquiorra*
> 
> Goooood afternoon guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope your all well ^_^. im currently speccing up a GPU computational box for work (well cheking over the specs of one), and the motherboard is a
> 
> Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7
> 
> The graphics cards are 2X 7970X2 (tripple slot) (omnom xD)
> 
> From what i can tell the cards will fit it taking up all but one PCI Slot (yay can get inifiband), and was just wondering if someone could say yes looks good or no your being a idiot and missing something,
> 
> The entire spec is >
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Graphics:Radeon HD 7970 x3£700
> Motherboard:Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 £160
> CPU:AMD FX-8150 £115
> RAM:Corsair CMZ16GX3M2A1866C9 Vengeance £100
> PSU:G1600-MA-EU£190
> Case:Aerocool Bx-500 Black Edition Midi Tower Case£65
> Hard Disk:Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM x3 £160
> Cooling:Arctic Fans£40
> 
> And its kind of a proof of concept box that ive finnaly been approved of getting and dont want to get it wrong!
> 
> Thanks in advance for any and all help you can give on if the cards fit!


IMO i would suggest the upgrade to Vishera 8320 or 8350 (both basically same chip just binned differently). You would yield much better results overall and wont leave yourself asking "what could have been"
Also a 7970 is the same as a 280x which is coming in around the same price here as 7970 so atleast may be worth looking into in your area before going with 7970 (since the 280x is newer and slightly better)
Also IF you can afford it upgrading the Corsair Vengeance to Gskill Trident-x Would be another suggestion (this is much more optional then the above suggestions more-so just cause if you can you should







).
Lastly suggest getting a SSD to run as your cache for raid or as your main drive. Much nicer using SSD as boot drive/windows drive (This suggestion also more optional and obviously could be added later aswell).

Otherwise amazing build, not familiar with the case but it looks cool (super beefy and im always a fan of RED







). Great PSU + Mobo choice







Let us know how it works out and what you decide







.

Also have you thought about CPU cooling? Always nice to push atleast a light overclock for daily use with a silent decent cooler of some sort







. You wont be happy with the stock fan im sure louder then the rest in the case xD.

If you do need cpu cooler Id highly suggest a double tower if you want a decent overclock. But if your just looking for a light overclock STAY AWAY FROM THE HYPER 212 and get something like this:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709018

comes in multiple colors, outperforms the 212 and isnt a piece of crap. Only reason i even mention it is that 9/10 people usually ask that question next lol. If you have the room and can afford it the phanteks ph-tc14pe or noctua nh-d14 or be quiet dark rock pro 2 or something similar would be better.

off subject about noctuas new nh-d14 coming out soon im STUPER EXCITED:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Noctua's new CPU coolers displayed at Computex ranged from compatibility updates to the existing NH-L9 low profile models over a more powerful 65mm tall version and a new 92mm D-type prototype to an updated 140mm dual tower cooler that will further improve the NH-D14's renowned quiet cooling performance. The NH-L9 compatibility updates are already being implemented with current production and the new 140mm dual tower is scheduled for release in Q4 2013. The 92mm model is planned for Q1 2014.



They also had some very nice video about there new technology which is amazing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AikMzJc9gcY&feature=youtu.be


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulquiorra*
> 
> Goooood afternoon guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hope your all well ^_^. im currently speccing up a GPU computational box for work (well cheking over the specs of one), and the motherboard is a
> 
> Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7
> 
> The graphics cards are 2X 7970X2 (tripple slot) (omnom xD)
> 
> From what i can tell the cards will fit it taking up all but one PCI Slot (yay can get inifiband), and was just wondering if someone could say yes looks good or no your being a idiot and missing something,
> 
> The entire spec is >
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Graphics:            Radeon HD 7970 x3                                       £700
> Motherboard:            Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7                          £160
> CPU:                    AMD FX-8150                                     £115
> RAM:                    Corsair CMZ16GX3M2A1866C9 Vengeance     £100
> PSU:                    G1600-MA-EU                                     £190
> Case:                   Aerocool Bx-500 Black Edition Midi Tower Case   £65
> Hard Disk:              Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM x3                £160
> Cooling:                Arctic Fans                                             £40
> 
> And its kind of a proof of concept box that ive finnaly been approved of getting and dont want to get it wrong!
> 
> Thanks in advance for any and all help you can give on if the cards fit!


The mobo will take the cards but you never have much space for airflow though.

Your CPU seems rather underpowered and those HDDs are kinda crap-ish (I've had a few); SSDs + WD Raptors (or the Barracudas) FTW; I so need to get a SSD.

That much money on gfx cards... almost a Titan; just a thought.


----------



## Ulquiorra

Ill have a nosey at the procs







, i must admit i only roughly know intel cpus now! Not been keeping upto date since i got my home pc,

Its aimed at applications that the ATI'S excell at over the NVidias







, i was just worried that the original spec was for 3X7970's, but 2X7970X2s is cheaper and "should" be better (ocl hashcat, omnom pentesting box!), as such the CPU wont be taxxed that much once it starts, and the disks will only be used as a "dumping ground"

As for the SSD i wanted one but got told no (booo), got told as they will fail faster than the drives and as of that its a bit of a problem (oh well)

Good Point on the CPU cooler i dont think they had speced that in, I want to do a build log (Well when i say i it would be others building and me grubling that they get to play!) and tweak and get as much perfoamace as i can outa it, the actual machines going in the server room so noise isnt a issue ^_^

(Was just happy when we got approval today! Helpfully we can order it by Friday and get started on it next week


----------



## dmfree88

Might even suggest then the FX-4300. If your not taxing 8 cores all the time then maybe a quad core with better single thread performance would be better since you could still go vishera? Also can be overclocked further when you do get cooling in it. Depends on cost difference i suppose and what your using it for. If you need the 8cores vishera still preferred but im sure youd still do decent with a 8150.

280x still same price as 7970 here aswell. 7970 finally is starting to come down but nows not the time to buy one with the 280x within $10-$20. Might be worse in your area though.


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Might even suggest then the FX-4300. If your not taxing 8 cores all the time then maybe a quad core with better single thread performance would be better since you could still go vishera? Also can be overclocked further when you do get cooling in it. Depends on cost difference i suppose and what your using it for. If you need the 8cores vishera still preferred but im sure youd still do decent with a 8150.


May as well go FX4350 in that case no?
Personally I utterly pillage all 8 cores on mine (hence FX9370) but it's fast as f***.
Wouldn't an FX8350 (OC'd) outperform an FX4350 even on single threads? Would swithing off half the cores improve that?
I'd also have thought an FX8150 would bottleneck the gfx no?


----------



## Ulquiorra

*slaps face* the ATI 280X not nvidia 280 xD!

i was thinking the 7970X2's as they work out a bit cheaper, the 180's are faster but work out allot more expensive (~£227, whereas 7970X2 (two 7970s in one right?) works out ~£350)

Also im not sure wether the single thred / more cores hmm, maybe more cores as it will be managing the 4 gpus?


----------



## dmfree88

Yea a 8350 would be preferred over the 4350. But compared to the 8150 would be a better single core performer. If you need the multi thread though im sure the 8150 would still be better. If the 280x is that much more then the 7970 is a good choice and basically the same card anyways.

Also switching off half cores really doesnt improve single thread but it decreases heat giving u more room to oc and therefore have better single thread performance because of higher oc.

I actually did this recently to try to improve FPS in a game that i thought was being bottlenecked by single thread being over 90%. So i disabled half of the cores and overclocked up to 4.9ghz and was able to bring single core use down to 80 percent but still wasnt maxing out the video card. Turns out its probably just the game poorly optimized as i am able to push 100% in other games that are just as demanding. Very irritating though as the game is one of the main reasons i built this computer xD.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Might even suggest then the FX-4300. If your not taxing 8 cores all the time then maybe a quad core with better single thread performance would be better since you could still go vishera? Also can be overclocked further when you do get cooling in it. Depends on cost difference i suppose and what your using it for. If you need the 8cores vishera still preferred but im sure youd still do decent with a 8150.
> 
> 280x still same price as 7970 here aswell. 7970 finally is starting to come down but nows not the time to buy one with the 280x within $10-$20. Might be worse in your area though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulquiorra*
> 
> *slaps face* the ATI 280X not nvidia 280 xD!
> 
> i was thinking the 7970X2's as they work out a bit cheaper, the 180's are faster but work out allot more expensive (~£227, whereas 7970X2 (two 7970s in one right?) works out ~£350)
> 
> Also im not sure wether the single thred / more cores hmm, maybe more cores as it will be managing the 4 gpus?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Yea a 8350 would be preferred over the 4350. But compared to the 8150 would be a better single core performer. If you need the multi thread though im sure the 8150 would still be better. If the 280x is that much more then the 7970 is a good choice and basically the same card anyways.
> 
> Also switching off half cores really doesnt improve single thread but it decreases heat giving u more room to oc and therefore have better single thread performance because of higher oc.
> 
> I actually did this recently to try to improve FPS in a game that i thought was being bottlenecked by single thread being over 90%. So i disabled half of the cores and overclocked up to 4.9ghz and was able to bring single core use down to 80 percent but still wasnt maxing out the video card. Turns out its probably just the game poorly optimized as i am able to push 100% in other games that are just as demanding. Very irritating though as the game is one of the main reasons i built this computer xD.


dude he is talking about 7990s specifically the ones that were 100% aftermarket before the 7990 came out


----------



## mus1mus

The suggestion of getting the 4350 over an 8-core Vishera or Bulldozer





















would only benefit gamers. Workstations would suffer though.

IMHO, I'd rather take a slightly less performing 8-core over a slightly better 4-core single threading performance.

I think the OP was talking about using the system with rendering, and some ADOBE, or some OpenCL applications where AMD GPUs excels. So the 8-core will always be outperforming whatever your quad core is capable of. Simply lots of power over the 4350!

Period


----------



## dmfree88

My suggestion was also based on cos factor if that left him more money elsewhere and IF he didnt need more cores. The single core performance can be significantly improved using good cooling vs how far youd get with the 8 core. Again only helpful if he doesnt need 8 cores because it would be cheaper and can be pushed further

Im not at my pc but i could hhave swore he said 7970.. the 7990 pair would be way better then the 280x my bad


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> My suggestion was also based on cos factor if that left him more money elsewhere and IF he didnt need more cores. The single core performance can be significantly improved using good cooling vs how far youd get with the 8 core. Again only helpful if he doesnt need 8 cores because it would be cheaper and can be pushed further
> 
> Im not at my pc but i could hhave swore he said 7970.. the 7990 pair would be way better then the 280x my bad


again the old dual gpu 7970 ( devil 13 ) he is saying 2x 7970*2


----------



## dmfree88

no i saw that i was saying he should get 2x280x instead of 2x7970 because of the price similarities. where hes from though it seems like thats not the case. Also depends if your going new or used.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> My suggestion was also based on cos factor if that left him more money elsewhere and IF he didnt need more cores. The single core performance can be significantly improved using good cooling vs how far youd get with the 8 core. Again only helpful if he doesnt need 8 cores because it would be cheaper and can be pushed further
> 
> Im not at my pc but i could hhave swore he said 7970.. the 7990 pair would be way better then the 280x my bad


The build if try to look at it isn't gonna be about saving what?, less than 100 $?...






















Dual-GPUs would already a hint he's not about saving that small amount.
















Again, we are already past that single-core era! And even if we still have to argue with it, the average OC for a 8-core AMD will be around 4.7-4.8 GHz. How much further can an average 4-core be OC'ed? 5.0 GHz? 5.2GHz?

That's roughly 10% of sigle threaded advantage compared to an outright 200% advantage the 8-core has to offer on multi-threaded apps. And don't even say, FEW apps use more than 4-cores. LMAO

Sure that's a very little gain on single thread performance compared to a huge margin on Multi-Threaded Performance an 8-core offers at the table.

TBH, I would already have shut up







if you recommended an i5 over an 8-core AMD. LOL


----------



## dmfree88

i dont know why this is turning into an debate. You havent said anything i dont agree with. You are making assumptions though about what he has or doesnt have as far as dollars. he did say it was work build so for all we know hes at his budget limit. Again I did say IF he doesnt need the 8 core. IF. Not many people wouldn't benefit from an 8core. Not saying he shouldn't get one never said that.

Assuming that he was at his max dollar amount i offered an alternative IF he needed to save some money and IF he wouldn't need the 8 cores. This is only reasonable if hes at a spending limit and needed to squeeze out a couple more dollars for something else AND would not need the 8 core. If hes not pushing the cpu during what he does working then im sure the 4core would suffice and again would still be a gain in single core performance. 10 percent is still 10 percent. This is of course IF he doesnt see a large benefit from the 8 core AND he needs the cash.

Everything I have said is also based on assumptions and clearly stated that way. So assuming he doesnt care about money as you say i would not suggest getting the quad-core







.

We can make assumptions all day but theres no reason to change the assumption i made and claim my statement to not be plauseable when it would have been prior to your changing it.









Also its not that few apps use more then 4 cores. its that few apps need more then 4cores. If your not rendering or converting or folding, you likely dont need all 8 cores. Most games would suffice with 4 cores aswell. Again Im still not saying 4cores is a better option. but its still true not alot of apps or games really NEED 8 cores. They will now that new games are coming out more demanding and that actually use all 8 cores. But most the time a quadcore is sufficient and speedy enough during regular use to not NEED the extra 4 cores.

I myself am power hungry and choose the 8 core just to have it







. Dont really need the 8 cores myself have ran at 4cores and still game the same and get the same results with everything i do other then converting. So really for me it was just cause i wanted to have the power and to own the beast. but in reality a 4350 would have been just as good (in my situation). in the future im sure ill find a game that will fully utilize the 8 cores that i actually enjoy. But until then i could have been good with a quad







.

not that any of that matters really but my point was that 8 cores is not really NEEDed for MOST use. I would still say buy the 8350 over a 4350 if you got the cash. But likely it wont get put to much use if your like me anyways







. Even programs/games that utilize all 8 cores still perform similar at 4 cores just with higher useage in the other cores. unless your really maxing the cpu which is rare unless converting or something similar that uses all cpu power thats available (100 percent useage no matter what you put in there). in most scenarios quadcore can handle the job.


----------



## mus1mus

Not exactly true unless, you outright consider the price.









With all due respect to your situation, you might not need the power of an 8-core chip, however, since apps are getting multi-threaded, recommending a quad would already seem idiotic. Not that I think or say, you are one. But like I said, the advantages of getting the 8-core is overflowing compared to a couple of advantages a quad core CPU has to offer. I'll walk you down that couple of advantages. And let me lighten your mood by saying "what I said was my opinion. and not something to pull you down"

This is a forum site, feel free to say what you feel. But then again, others will always say something contradicting your own opinion. That's the essence of it. Not bashing or anything.

1. *Quad-cores were of course, cheaper than octa-cores.*
Right.
However, don't forget how AMD CPU line-up were separated on a pricing standpoint. Check this out.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100007671%2050001028&IsNodeId=1&name=AMD



As you can see, at no more than around 20 US$ difference for each iteration. Jumping from a quad to an octa-core should've had to be more than twice in pricing. At least for Intel. But since they are not even separated by that margin, the choice will always go down to one, Budget.

However, like I said, if the OP has been limited by budget, you wouldn't even see those GPUs he listed on the parts he will be working with. Clear enough?

2. *Quad-cores were better for Single Threaded apps. Apps work well enough on a quad-core. Most people don't need more than 4 cores.*

While most of the statements above could be true, It does not necessarily getting an octa-core is a bad idea or a waste of money.

Remember that the 4350 is a cut-down 8350. Same architecture, same everything. Just cut in half.

While having them cut offers one major advantage, HEAT, it never has been proven that the quad-core Visheras could OC more than 15% over what the octa-cores can achieve.
Even at the extremes, they cannot really reach such high clocks that an octa-core can't reach.

So for them to be significantly better than the 8-cores, they should at least clock 1GHz higher for the argument to be valid.

While on the other hand, apps do run well with 4 cores. Correct. However, take note that if those apps were tailored for multi-threading, those apps will also tax even the best quad cores. While the 8-cores will easily handle them. Consequently, finish faster as a result since they are not really stretching their legs running those apps (Surely run cooler too)







.

Lastly, while most people can get away with 4-cores, remember that not all of us have the same scope of work. Those creative people will benefit hugely by having a lot of cores to work with. (These analogy applies to everything. Cars can run with just a cylinder. But some people really need to have V8s at the least) Go figure.

So to recommend something like a 4350, and defend on such arguments, I could only think that you are not really making a good advice. The future Bulldozer users clamored for in the past is already a present. Apps were now running with more threads. That 8-Vishera is still a pretty cost-effective solution compared to Intels. Most of all, if the 8350 is a heavy CPU on one's pocket, 8320 is still a notch less expensive. Or better yet, a 6350. See if you can argue with such offerings then.


----------



## dmfree88

I was also comparing a 8150 to an 4350 initially (part of the reason i thought he was on a budget) but i agree for the most part except the point was there really is minimal again NEED for that 8 core. As you said it may be less taxing or quicker especially in heavy use but thats again if you plan on using it for that. I feel like were almost making the same argument at this point because really it all comes down to dollars. I would always suggest the 8 core vishera especially considering as you said its not a m ajor difference. But i still feel in reality most people including myself could have done just aswell with the quad vishera. But i dont play bf4 or anything heavy on all 8 cores again other then converting which i could handle waiting a few extra min considering how long my pentium d used to take lol. I also dont foresee in the near future any major changes that would completely hinder a decent quad core for a normal user (not that most of us here are normal







) but ofcourse a 6350 8320 whatever the choice may be always go for the best u can


----------



## Ulquiorra

Its open CL based ^_^ and my boss would never complain about cost savings









On a side not its been pushed back a week till the techys company CC resets T_T, but i promise to post it after


----------



## dmfree88

Good luck! Take pics! Want to see that perdy comp


----------



## InsideJob

Got my 6300 running stable at 4.5ghz on my ud3 rev3. Voltage offset is at +0.75 running between 1.3-1.4v peaking at 49°c at load.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

The 6300's clock nicely. I put one together for my dad and have it running at 4.0ghz with 1.27v on slightly better than stock cooling. I am very impressed with that chip.


----------



## zila

I just got this 990FXA-UD5 Rev. 3 motherboard. Spent the better part of the weekend installing it and then trying to tune it in. Took my Rev. 1 out of there cause I just couldn't stand that board anymore. That board has the worst vdroop of any board I've ever owned.

Any way, I got this new one in there. I flashed it with the latest bios FCb. It's a great bios, has all the features any over clocker could need................except for some crazy reason I can't get the computer to shut down from in windows anymore. Push the shut down button and all the open programs will close, windows closes................then you're left with a black screen and all the lights and fans are still running. Push the re set button and it comes right back to the desk top. Doesn't do that with the other bios's FA or FB, just this one. Weird. I haven't figured this out yet. To shut down I have to push the power button on the front of the case.

If anyone has any ideas as to what could be causing this please feel free to add your comments. I would really appreciate it.

I stopped here for now: http://valid.canardpc.com/xxcr7j

StabilityTest1.jpg 574k .jpg file


----------



## ginger_nuts

Can anyone help me.

Can I plug any AM2 or AM2+ chips into my UD3 rev4.0 board? Can I use DDR3 ram on the board with the AM2 & AM2+ chips?


----------



## InsideJob

I don't believe an AM2 chip will slot into an AM3 board.


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Can anyone help me.
> 
> Can I plug any AM2 or AM2+ chips into my UD3 rev4.0 board? Can I use DDR3 ram on the board with the AM2 & AM2+ chips?


Short answer: no.

I refer you to the official CPU support list for the UD3 as found on Gigabyte's website:

http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4672

Stick to components on the support lists or bad things will happen; or rather, stuff just won't fit or won't work.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Can anyone help me.
> 
> Can I plug any AM2 or AM2+ chips into my UD3 rev4.0 board? Can I use DDR3 ram on the board with the AM2 & AM2+ chips?


AM2 & AM2+ chips are literally DDR2 only as they do not have DDR3 controller on the die...

AM3 chips have both a DDR2 & 3 controller on die, and AM3+ chips are solely DDR3 ...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I don't believe an AM2 chip will slot into an AM3 board.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> Short answer: no.
> 
> I refer you to the official CPU support list for the UD3 as found on Gigabyte's website:
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4672
> 
> Stick to components on the support lists or bad things will happen; or rather, stuff just won't fit or won't work.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> AM2 & AM2+ chips are literally DDR2 only as they do not have DDR3 controller on the die...
> 
> AM3 chips have both a DDR2 & 3 controller on die, and AM3+ chips are solely DDR3 ...


Cheers everyone







thanks for the education lesson.


----------



## zila

Well, I found out what the shut down problem was all about. For whatever reason when using the FCb bios, if you disable Full Screen Logo Show in the bios, it can cause a shut down issue in windows. It causes the shut down to not complete. It just hangs there with the fans and power supply still going. I re-enabled it and all is fine again.

This is a nice motherboard with decent features. A real sharp looking motherboard too. Now back to some more over clocking..............


----------



## anbws11

I'm having issues getting my FX-8350 to work. I was once again bitten by the upgrade bug and decided that I wanted to upgrade a few components in my rig. I was running a Phenom II X6 1075T in my rig, and decided to go for the FX-8350. Bought one, dropped the 8350 in. Nothing. No post. No beeps from my motherboard speaker. Put my 1075T back in, booted up like normal. I have the UD5 rev 1.0, I had flashed the bios to F11. All should have been good, I even contacted Gigabyte to make double sure that there should be no compatibility issues. Figured I received a DOA processor, so I got an RMA from Newegg. They approved it for replacement. Classes started back, so I haven't had time to play any games, let alone work on my computer until today. Pulled the processor out of the box and noticed that the box had been opened. I kind of ignored that thinking after Newegg checked my processor out they probably just put a new one in my box. Especially since I have never received a brand-spanking-new-still-in-the-original-box item from any RMA I have had to do with any company. Dropped this processor in, and.. nothing. Any ideas on what could be the problem? Did Newegg send me back my dead processor? Is there an issue with my board and the 8350? I might try flashing to the F12 bios later, but I'm not really holding out much hope.

As far as the other components in my rig go, I have 8 gb of ddr3 1333 mhz gskill ram, a gigabyte gtx 770 4 gb gpu, and a 1000w psu. There is a local pc shop that can run diagnostics on cpus, and I might take mine there tomorrow, but I'm kind of reluctant to drop another $20 on a processor that I already paid to ship back. It almost feels like I'm throwing money in the toilet at this point.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Have you tried clearing cmos? Flashing to the newest BIOS? Starting with safe default settings?

Strange but possible, try another PSU.


----------



## dmfree88

Clearing cmos would be first then maybe because you have rev 1.0 and no llc setting its possible even at stock you may need a bump in vcore since rev1.0 tends to have alot o droop.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Clearing cmos would be first then maybe because you have rev 1.0 and no llc setting its possible even at stock you may need a bump in vcore since rev1.0 tends to have alot o droop.


^^ True story ^^


----------



## anbws11

I flashed to F12, and tried booting it up with just 1 stick of ram and had success. I guess the 8350 didn't like my memory kit for some reason. I've been wanting to upgrade my memory though so I'm not really bothered by that. I'm looking at this kit - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231623 Does anyone see any reason that wouldn't work with the ud5 and 8350?


----------



## zila

Now that you got it to boot, set up the timings and memory voltage manually. Shut down and re-install the other stick and see if it boots with it. I have a 990FXA-UD5 Rev. 1 that is just a pain to work with and it does similar things.

I too have it flashed to F12 and it works best with that bios. But the vdroop is still crazy.


----------



## Ulquiorra

Okay change of plans as how how the 7990's are ... Will be swapping to a a 8 slot case
Something like this
http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/134-phantom-530.html

(i wnated a server rack mount one but too expansive pah!

AQnd swap to 7970's (280s are a tad more expensive).

But would anyone be kind enough who has the UD7 comment as to if the baord, it says it does,
Support for 2-Way/3-Way/4-Way AMD CrossFireX™ and NVIDIA SLI™ technology

and
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=GA-990FXA-UD7&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=G72VUp3eB_OByQPgl4G4DQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=936#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=Z-ATSoE-5VQRwM%3A%3BRkiMxmWG715BVM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.appinformatica.com%252Fimf%252Fplacas-base-amd-gigabyte-990fxa-ud7-sam3%252B-4xddr3-atx-glan-usb3-3g.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.appinformatica.com%252Fplacas-base-amd-gigabyte-990fxa-ud7-sam3%252B-4xddr3-atx-glan-usb3.php%3B500%3B318

But i dont want to do a booboo


----------



## dmfree88

It can do 4x xfire. Dont have one myself but a few on here do and have quad setups


----------



## Wirerat

I just purchased a 990fxa ud3 revision 3. I been reading 8350 throttling due to vrm heat.

If I swap out the thermol tape for quality thermol paste at the vrm and put a fan there. Would this mb allow an overclock on a 6300?

I just lost a board cause of vrm Issues (msi 970). 8-2 phase seemed beast when I ordered it. Now im reading about issues.

My sons rig has a crappy gigabyte 78micro atx mb fx6300 @4.5v prime stable with zero throttle or issues. So will I be ok as long as I stay with the 6 core?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I just purchased a 990fxa ud3 revision 3. I been reading 8350 throttling due to vrm heat.
> 
> If I swap out the thermol tape for quality thermol paste at the vrm and put a fan there. Would this mb allow an overclock on a 6300?
> 
> I just lost a board cause of vrm Issues (msi 970). 8-2 phase seemed beast when I ordered it. Now im reading about issues.
> 
> My sons rig has a crappy gigabyte 78micro atx mb fx6300 @4.5v prime stable with zero throttle or issues. So will I be ok as long as I stay with the 6 core?


That's probably your best bet... for whatever reason, the FX-8xxx series just suck too much heat and power through the VRMs, and Gigabyte really dropped the ball on the UD3-Rev 3 design. I can't speak about it from personal experience as I have a UD5 Rev 1.0 (which has it's own issues with terribly bad Vdroop at anything over a 4.0GHz OC with my FX-8120), but Ozzy, dracconus, istudy, and many others in this thread have also had problems trying to overclock the 8-core FX series on the UD3 Rev 3s. If you browse through looking for their posts you'll see what I mean, and I'm certain they'll be more than willing to help you out with more advice and answering further questions.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> I just purchased a 990fxa ud3 revision 3. I been reading 8350 throttling due to vrm heat.
> 
> If I swap out the thermol tape for quality thermol paste at the vrm and put a fan there. Would this mb allow an overclock on a 6300?
> 
> I just lost a board cause of vrm Issues (msi 970). 8-2 phase seemed beast when I ordered it. Now im reading about issues.
> 
> My sons rig has a crappy gigabyte 78micro atx mb fx6300 @4.5v prime stable with zero throttle or issues. So will I be ok as long as I stay with the 6 core?


I would just double check to make sure the board isn't warped around the VRM's. If you have no warping adding a fan over top of the VRM heatsink will most likely stop you from having any troubles. For piece of mind you can remove the plastic pins holding the heatsink and mount it with screws and nuts to prevent it from wobbling. The 6300 won't draw near as much power as the 8320/8350's so you fortunately won't have to get crazy like me and a few others did to keep temps under control.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

So the process of slowly evolving my build has begun. I recently acquired a pair of 7950s from Melee, and I'm considering an upgrade to either the UD7 or an ASUS CH V Formula... then again, I might *darts eyes about waiting to get tarred and feathered* gulp, switch to an IB-E build. I know I know, my 8120 still has plenty of life left in it... but the way I see it, at this point... if I'm really going to buy a new CPU and motherboard... I'd rather spend the extra $150 or so and either get a 4820K with a Rampage IV Gene or Black Edition ... The idea of 48 native PCIe lanes and quad channel RAM support is so appealing right now... especially with wanting to upgrade to at least 2-way Crossfire R9-290s in 6-9 months as I finalize ordering the guts for "The Machine" in my sig... sigh. I've had a decent almost 2 year run with this build, but it's getting antiquated and I have the money to start going bigger.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> That's probably your best bet... for whatever reason, the FX-8xxx series just suck too much heat and power through the VRMs, and Gigabyte really dropped the ball on the UD3-Rev 3 design. I can't speak about it from personal experience as I have a UD5 Rev 1.0 (which has it's own issues with terribly bad Vdroop at anything over a 4.0GHz OC with my FX-8120), but Ozzy, dracconus, istudy, and many others in this thread have also had problems trying to overclock the 8-core FX series on the UD3 Rev 3s. If you browse through looking for their posts you'll see what I mean, and I'm certain they'll be more than willing to help you out with more advice and answering further questions.


I can send the board back. It just arrived at my house today. Since it came from amazon I can request a return pay the difference and get the md5 before sending this one back. I think I will install it and test the vrm temps before I do. I only want to get 4.6.mhz. Wich is not an insane oc. Also I have no intention on moving to a 8xxx chip.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Add me please!

GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0037_zps8f3d1b54.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0039_zpsd5b0976c.jpg.html


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Very nice and tidy build DeepSouth... what Rev is your UD3 and what are your system temps like?

PS... Hey Ozzy... that is going "overboard and extreme" on VRM and MOSFET cooling, lol.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I would just double check to make sure the board isn't warped around the VRM's. If you have no warping adding a fan over top of the VRM heatsink will most likely stop you from having any troubles. For piece of mind you can remove the plastic pins holding the heatsink and mount it with screws and nuts to prevent it from wobbling. The 6300 won't draw near as much power as the 8320/8350's so you fortunately won't have to get crazy like me and a few others did to keep temps under control.


so I can bolt the heatsink. how long/narrow are the screws? What about replacing the thermal tape with thermal paste?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

With the 6300, you probably shouldn't have too much trouble getting to 4.6 as long as you have good airflow over the VRM and MOSFET heatsinks and a quality CPU cooler. If you go with an AIO water cooler, you'll probably want to use something with a 240mm rad, if you want to use air definitely go top end. If you are comfortable with applying liquid I would recommend CoolLaboratory Liquid Pro or Ultra... I just made the switch to Ultra a couple weeks ago and have noticed about only 4-5 C lower at idle, but 12-13 C lower at full load @4.2 GHz running prime 95 32M looped for 6 hours on my Corsair H80 and 8120... although I'm still not comforatble running it 24/7 because my UD5 and CPU take 1.45V to get there thanks to the terrible VDroop my UD5 has. I've heard that the later Rev UD5s are a little better, but for a little bit more than the UD5, I would recommend also considering going an ASUS Sabertooth Rev 2. For the price range, the quality of the ASUS boards and lack of cooling/vdroop problems is something to at least consider.


----------



## Wirerat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> With the 6300, you probably shouldn't have too much trouble getting to 4.6 as long as you have good airflow over the VRM and MOSFET heatsinks and a quality CPU cooler. If you go with an AIO water cooler, you'll probably want to use something with a 240mm rad, if you want to use air definitely go top end. If you are comfortable with applying liquid I would recommend CoolLaboratory Liquid Pro or Ultra... I just made the switch to Ultra a couple weeks ago and have noticed about only 4-5 C lower at idle, but 12-13 C lower at full load @4.2 GHz running prime 95 32M looped for 6 hours on my Corsair H80 and 8120... although I'm still not comforatble running it 24/7 because my UD5 and CPU take 1.45V to get there thanks to the terrible VDroop my UD5 has. I've heard that the later Rev UD5s are a little better, but for a little bit more than the UD5, I would recommend also considering going an ASUS Sabertooth Rev 2. For the price range, the quality of the ASUS boards and lack of cooling/vdroop problems is something to at least consider.


the Sabertooth is a little more than I want to invest. My temps on my old board never went above 48c evo 212 push/pull and I had it at 4.6mhz 1.44volts 24/7. But the msi board was getting buggy so I ordered the ud3.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> the Sabertooth is a little more than I want to invest. My temps on my old board never went above 48c evo 212 push/pull and I had it at 4.6mhz 1.44volts 24/7. But the msi board was getting buggy so I ordered the ud3.


With the 6300 and that air setup, you should be fine then. Of course, should you run into any problems, there's a bunch of people here to help you out. Good luck and keep us all posted on how your results turn out!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Very nice and tidy build DeepSouth... what Rev is your UD3 and what are your system temps like?
> 
> PS... Hey Ozzy... that is going "overboard and extreme" on VRM and MOSFET cooling, lol.


LOL that should get the job done! Bring on the 9590!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wirerat*
> 
> so I can bolt the heatsink. how long/narrow are the screws? What about replacing the thermal tape with thermal paste?


Yeah I used long thin screws with small nuts. Just make sure you use the non-conductive washers on the board side. Another user posted the sizes he used, I'm not sure what I used I have a huge bag of small screws and nuts I've acquired over the years. I also ended up using thermal tape because my board was so warped compound wasn't making contact with the heatsink on all the VRM chips. Honestly I think you would be ok with the tape as long as its anchored well and you have airflow.


----------



## miklkit

I used no.4 bolts and no.4 nylock nuts and no.4 washers. When installing the Thermalright cooler I also used no.6 plastic washers.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Add me please!
> 
> GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0037_zps8f3d1b54.jpg.html
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0039_zpsd5b0976c.jpg.html


Nice rig dude!!

Looks amazing, i do have a question tho, where did you find the VRM water block?

iic you are using all EK waterblocks right?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ulquiorra*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Okay change of plans as how how the 7990's are ... Will be swapping to a a 8 slot case
> Something like this
> http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/134-phantom-530.html
> 
> (i wnated a server rack mount one but too expansive pah!
> 
> AQnd swap to 7970's (280s are a tad more expensive).
> 
> 
> But would anyone be kind enough who has the UD7 comment as to if the baord, it says it does,
> Support for 2-Way/3-Way/4-Way AMD CrossFireX™ and NVIDIA SLI™ technology
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and
> https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=GA-990FXA-UD7&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=G72VUp3eB_OByQPgl4G4DQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=936#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=Z-ATSoE-5VQRwM%3A%3BRkiMxmWG715BVM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.appinformatica.com%252Fimf%252Fplacas-base-amd-gigabyte-990fxa-ud7-sam3%252B-4xddr3-atx-glan-usb3-3g.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.appinformatica.com%252Fplacas-base-amd-gigabyte-990fxa-ud7-sam3%252B-4xddr3-atx-glan-usb3.php%3B500%3B318
> 
> 
> 
> But i dont want to do a booboo


yes it can do quadfire ( currently running 8350 @ 4.8 2700cpu/ng 3900ht +2400 ram @ 10-12-12-31, will it score the best vs a intel no, but the games run just fine in eyefininty

you do need to oc your ht to get the most out of it, and it can be very very frustrating as it is easy to corrupt your hdds ! ( trick is when you bsod while stability testing, not to let it check your hdds for errors or update/install anything ) kept me from reformatting a few times

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> So the process of slowly evolving my build has begun. I recently acquired a pair of 7950s from Melee, and I'm considering an upgrade to either the UD7 or an ASUS CH V Formula... then again, I might *darts eyes about waiting to get tarred and feathered* gulp, switch to an IB-E build. I know I know, my 8120 still has plenty of life left in it... but the way I see it, at this point... if I'm really going to buy a new CPU and motherboard... I'd rather spend the extra $150 or so and either get a 4820K with a Rampage IV Gene or Black Edition ... The idea of 48 native PCIe lanes and quad channel RAM support is so appealing right now... especially with wanting to upgrade to at least 2-way Crossfire R9-290s in 6-9 months as I finalize ordering the guts for "The Machine" in my sig... sigh. I've had a decent almost 2 year run with this build, but it's getting antiquated and I have the money to start going bigger.


haha i just got a 3930k and i will also be getting a 4930k, sick of not being able to beat my friend in some benches, so i got one to stomp him with
esp with only 2 GPUs i would personally go for the CVFz it is a much much better and more enjoyable ocing experience.
also so is the sabertooth if you are going for max clocks ( i hit 5.55 on mine, but back then voltage was locked to max of 1.7v i hear now they changed that to 1.7+ idk though how high i can go... tempted to drop it in and find out
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Very nice and tidy build DeepSouth... what Rev is your UD3 and what are your system temps like?
> 
> PS... Hey Ozzy... that is going "overboard and extreme" on VRM and MOSFET cooling, lol.


hey i love my watercooled vrms, only board that may not get it is my htpc... have not decided... +welcome man


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Nice rig dude!!
> 
> Looks amazing, i do have a question tho, where did you find the VRM water block?
> 
> iic you are using all EK waterblocks right?


It looks like he's using this EK Gigabyte universal block kit...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_241_589&products_id=27632


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> It looks like he's using this EK Gigabyte universal block kit...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_971_241_589&products_id=27632


I am! Thanks for the kind words. Still in the process of finishing up the build. Let you know how the temps are when overclocking.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Have a question for yall. Just starting to get my system up and running after completing the build. My question is about Bios for the 990FXA-UD3 Rev. 1.1 Should i stick with the bios that are loaded on the mobo right out the box or flash the newest bios on there site that shows F10a Beta bios?

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3996#bios


----------



## dmfree88

If i recall correctly the beta bios has some flaws people were having trouble with. If anything maybe upgrade to latest non-beta. Most the time though if your not having any problems its usually recommended (atleast by the manufactures) to stick with the bios you have. I personally do upgrade to latest non-beta when i first get a mobo but generally its not needed unless theres a compatibility issue


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Have a question for yall. Just starting to get my system up and running after completing the build. My question is about Bios for the 990FXA-UD3 Rev. 1.1 Should i stick with the bios that are loaded on the mobo right out the box or flash the newest bios on there site that shows F10a Beta bios?
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3996#bios


I personally always update for a build, I am not one to try the Beta version though. But someone has to









You should also be good with the BIOS it ships with, unless you are using a FX chip, in what case you would need to update.


----------



## zila

Speaking of bios, is anyone having any problems with the 990FXA-UD5 Rev. 3 motherboard with an FX Chip? I'm using bios FCb right now with an FX-8350 and I'm getting lockups when trying to get into the bios. It does this at stock settings or overclocked. I actually have to re-flash the bios to straighten it out but this has happened three times now.

It came with bios FB so I'm just gonna flash back to that and see if the problem goes away. I wish Gigabyte would put some good bios in these things.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Speaking of bios, is anyone having any problems with the 990FXA-UD5 Rev. 3 motherboard with an FX Chip? I'm using bios FCb right now with an FX-8350 and I'm getting lockups when trying to get into the bios. It does this at stock settings or overclocked. I actually have to re-flash the bios to straighten it out but this has happened three times now.
> 
> It came with bios FB so I'm just gonna flash back to that and see if the problem goes away. I wish Gigabyte would put some good bios in these things.


Make sure all unnecessary USB stuff is unplugged. Both my PS4 controller and this thing that allows you to plug in Atari 9-pin joysticks seems to interfere with my bios making me think its locked up or otherwise misbehaved.


----------



## zila

Thanks, I'll give that a try. I do have a usb game pad installed. It's really strange how it locks up only when trying to enter the bios. Hmmmmmm.


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Speaking of bios, is anyone having any problems with the 990FXA-UD5 Rev. 3 motherboard with an FX Chip? I'm using bios FCb right now with an FX-8350 and I'm getting lockups when trying to get into the bios. It does this at stock settings or overclocked. I actually have to re-flash the bios to straighten it out but this has happened three times now.
> 
> It came with bios FB so I'm just gonna flash back to that and see if the problem goes away. I wish Gigabyte would put some good bios in these things.


I have the UD5 rev.3 on FCb beta BIOS and an FX9370.
After a bit of initial wierdness with briefly powering up then down then up before every POST and waking up from sleep mode, it's all working fine with no wierd behaviour.
On USB I have a powered hub, some active card readers and adapters, bluetooth & 2.4GHz adapters, an Apple keyboard, a Wacom Intuos, and an Xbox wireless adapter.


----------



## zila

Mine does that weird on/off behavior whenever I disable Core Performance Boost. I have to re-enable it and then match the CPB multiplier to whatever my cpu multiplier is set to and that fixes that.

And I can't manually set set my ram. If I do it just goes into single channel mode for some reason so I have to choose one of two xmp profiles one of which is supposed to run at 1T but won't.

And I have to keep "full screen logo show" enabled or the computer will not do a complete shut down from windows, it hangs at a black screen.

I hope Gigabyte comes up with a better bios for this board soon. It's a really nice board otherwise. The bios really sucks.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Mine does that weird on/off behavior whenever I disable Core Performance Boost. I have to re-enable it and then match the CPB multiplier to whatever my cpu multiplier is set to and that fixes that.
> 
> And I can't manually set set my ram. If I do it just goes into single channel mode for some reason so I have to choose one of two xmp profiles one of which is supposed to run at 1T but won't.
> 
> And I have to keep "full screen logo show" enabled or the computer will not do a complete shut down from windows, it hangs at a black screen.
> 
> I hope Gigabyte comes up with a better bios for this board soon. It's a really nice board otherwise. The bios really sucks.


QFT,

Like the Board... Giga needs to learn how to write a Bios...


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yeah don't count on a BIOS lol. Us UD3 Rev 3 owners were told we were getting one back in April...


----------



## zila

Gigabyte needs to get their butts in gear then, releasing unfinished boards into the wild is ridiculous. None of the bios files for this board work right, they all have problems.

If they could get someone to properly program these boards they would be the best boards around.


----------



## nidzakv

Is there a solution for slow booting in windows 7 x64? It takes about 50sec to boot to desktop. My old pc booted for about 30sec..

And, about restart, why doses pc shuts down for few secounds when i want to restart pc?

it's not a big problem but, its kind of annoying..

Thans in advance!

edit

Its rev. 4.0


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> Is there a solution for slow booting in windows 7 x64? It takes about 50sec to boot to desktop. My old pc booted for about 30sec..
> 
> And, about restart, why doses pc shuts down for few secounds when i want to restart pc?
> 
> it's not a big problem but, its kind of annoying..
> 
> Thans in advance!
> 
> edit
> 
> Its rev. 4.0


As for the slow booting windows have you followed *Sean's Windows 7 Install & Optimization Guide* it works wonders for shrinking the windows install and quick booting and shut down.

As for the shutdown thing mine does it as well, but I haven't tried any of the solutions in the last few pages.


----------



## Siigari

Hey all, I just got this board from the Newegg sale. It's Rev 4.0. I have a Sempron plugged in and one R9 280X video card along with a solid state drive.

Tested it with my EVGA 1500W Classified PSU. Fans spin, no boot. Can play with Num Lock though. Tested it with a different PSU, same issue. All fans turn on, no screen.

12V ATX plugged in, mobo plugged in, both VGA powers plugged in, CPU fan plugged in, video plugged in to monitor, power plugged in to SSD and everything else is plugged in.

Help.


----------



## Auisce

Which Sempron?


----------



## Siigari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> Which Sempron?


145. See second sig rig for parts.


----------



## ebduncan

try taking out a stick of mem? might be a bad stick, or could be a bad video card. I would cross those off your list first. Then if all else fails RMA the board.


----------



## Mega Man

i am hating the bios for this board atm... giga needs to update !


----------



## zila

I hear ya Mega Man, The bios on all these boards are lacking. I hate the one in mine.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I hear ya Mega Man, The bios on all these boards are lacking. I hate the one in mine.


triple that.... I despise this horrid bios...


----------



## EquiGym

I'm looking to purchase the GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 3.0 with the following setup:
Mobo: GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 3.0
CPU: AMD Vishera FX8350 4.0GHz
Mem: CORSAIR Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) CMY16GX3M2A1600C9
Vid: NVIDIA Quadro K2000 VCQK2000-PB 2GB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16

This is a replacement for my main workstation. I think I killed the MB with a static shock while putting a second video card. Worst time of the year to be sticking my hands in a computer case.

The heaviest hitting task this system will be used for is 3d design work (Autodesk Inventor & 3dsMax).

My question regards the memory. I'm not totally sure it is compatible.
GB's QVL says I can do the Vengeance 16GB (4x4GB) CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9
I'm not looking to have an extreme amount of memory. 16GB will be good for now and maybe forever on this system build.
I would like a some OC ability. Will the Vengeance Pro give me this over the Vengeance series?

Any suggestions and comments are very welcome on this setup.


----------



## EquiGym

EDIT: Never mind....... this board went out of stock







@NewEgg
So now I'm going with AsRock 990fx Ext9, AMD FX9370, Corsair VP 2x8 1866.

..................................................................................................................................
I'm looking to purchase the GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 3.0 with the following setup:
Mobo: GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 3.0
CPU: AMD Vishera FX8350 4.0GHz
Mem: CORSAIR Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) CMY16GX3M2A1600C9
Vid: NVIDIA Quadro K2000 VCQK2000-PB 2GB GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16

This is a replacement for my main workstation. I killed my GA-M59SLI-S5 MB with a static shock (still investigating) while installing a 3rd video card.
Time for an upgrade anyway.
The heaviest hitting task this system will be used for is 3d design work (Autodesk Inventor & 3dsMax).

My question regards the memory. I'm not totally sure it is compatible.
GB's QVL says I can do the Vengeance 16GB (4x4GB) CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9
I'm not looking to have an extreme amount of memory. 16GB will be good for now and maybe forever on this system build.
I would like a some OC ability. Will the Vengeance Pro give me this over the Vengeance series?

Any suggestions and comments are very welcome on this setup.


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siigari*
> 
> 145. See second sig rig for parts.


Argh that should work...

Cut it back to bare bones, flash bios n start from there, ie mobo, psu, cpu, 1 stick o ram, 1 gfx card, standard hdd, kvm. All parts should be known good parts, ie should function in another machine.

Wait... you have 4 radeons? If so, the board supports 2 way crossfire not 4.


----------



## Siigari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> Argh that should work...
> 
> Cut it back to bare bones, flash bios n start from there, ie mobo, psu, cpu, 1 stick o ram, 1 gfx card, standard hdd, kvm. All parts should be known good parts, ie should function in another machine.
> 
> Wait... you have 4 radeons? If so, the board supports 2 way crossfire not 4.


Haha, did all that. It's already in RMA man.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> Argh that should work...
> 
> Cut it back to bare bones, flash bios n start from there, ie mobo, psu, cpu, 1 stick o ram, 1 gfx card, standard hdd, kvm. All parts should be known good parts, ie should function in another machine.
> 
> Wait... you have 4 radeons? If so, the board supports 2 way crossfire not 4.


Actually the UD3 can do Quadfire. PCI Express 2.0 x16: 4 (x16, x16, x4, x4) Two of the cards will only get pci-e 2.0 x4 bandwidth though. Btw I don't think he is concerned with gaming performance seeing as hes going to be using a single core cpu. This is a mining rig he is talking about.

On the bios thing. The rev 1.0/ 1.1 has the best bios of all the boards. Granted its old school style. Giga's bios do suck though.

I settled on F9, and its been the best bios for me and my rev 1.0.


----------



## Auisce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siigari*
> 
> Haha, did all that. It's already in RMA man.


Kewl beans.







Er... woman though









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Actually the UD3 can do Quadfire. PCI Express 2.0 x16: 4 (x16, x16, x4, x4) Two of the cards will only get pci-e 2.0 x4 bandwidth though. Btw I don't think he is concerned with gaming performance seeing as hes going to be using a single core cpu. This is a mining rig he is talking about.
> 
> On the bios thing. The rev 1.0/ 1.1 has the best bios of all the boards. Granted its old school style. Giga's bios do suck though.
> 
> I settled on F9, and its been the best bios for me and my rev 1.0.


Really? Gigabyte page says the UD3 supports 2, and the UD5 manual says 3 and it comes with a "cable" for 3.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> Kewl beans.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Er... woman though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really? Gigabyte page says the UD3 supports 2, and the UD5 manual says 3 and it comes with a "cable" for 3.


yes it only supports 2 because two of the pci-e lanes are x4. That and well to run more than 3 you will need a single slot cards. Ud5 has PCI Express 2.0 x16: 5 (x16, x16, x8, x4, x4) So it will support 3 cards with x8 or higher bandwidth. And the ud7 supports 2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x16 (PCIEX16_1, PCIEX16_2) 2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x8 (PCIEX8_1, PCIEX8_2) 2 x PCI Express x16 slots, running at x4 (PCIEX4_1, PCIEX4_2) Or 16x, 16x, 8x,8x It has 4 pci-e slots with x8 or higher bandwidth. as well as a pci-e power plug on the board. (not needed but adds to voltage stability)

However like i said before this guy isn't worried about getting full bandwidth from the pci-e lanes, because you only need x1 slot for gpu mining.


----------



## Demonkev666

I see you guys are talking about 4 physical cards. don't for the dual gpu cards can do quad with only 2 pci-express slots. so it's usually labeled on most boards to support "quad fire" or "crossfire X"

Just replaced my Rev 1.0 UD7 with 3.0 nicer board.


----------



## rascas

So i wasn't too happy with my FX 9370 (crappy IMC), so i sold it for close to what i paid and bought a 9590. Turned out to be a much nicer CPU to work with. Vid was a lot lower 1.5v compared to 1.53v and cpu/nb vid was lower too 1.125v compared to 1.135v.

It took me a while playing with settings but i managed to get stable at 5.16 with 2650 nb. I feel that if i turn down the NB and the ram i could get this stable at higher clocks but the performance feels really good right now. I had it load windows at 5.3 but cant get it stable, only ran prime for about 10 mins, it would need more volts than what my cooling can handle to get it stable. This chip runs a lot hotter than the 9370.



3dmark with trifire matrix 280x. I Can push them further but make little difference in scores.





I will post some pics of my rig when i finish the cable sleeving.

thanks to megaman and mus1mus for helping me out


----------



## max3232

Hello everyone!

I am a new 990fxa-ud3 owner. I've never overclocked any of my PCs. But seeing as I was able to keep temps really low with no OC with the stock HSF and Arctic Silver Ceramique I want to give it a shot just for fun. I actually have a background in HPC, somewhat. But not just for fun, for work.

I need to buy a CPU HSF. I want something compact and efficient that wont break the bank, this started out as sort of a budget build to replace an aging AMD64 system, which itself replaced an Athlon 2 which replaced an Athlon. So I guess I am a loyal AMD person. LOL.

So, I was leaning towards this low profile Scythe which has some overhang on the fan so hopefully I could have aimed that right down on the spot that gets the hottest,but the reviews here of that cooler dont seem so great.

I am not wedded to that choice.. its mostly because its reputed to be pretty quiet as well as move a lot of heat, and because it seems like a good balance between cooling and cost in a low profile unit. Could I use a taller cooler. maybe, but the clearance would be just millimeters with a 159 mm HSF. I have the standard ATX style case, its a DIY PC FM-03 which is a standard width.

Also, does anybody know of good, quick benchmarking apps on Linux, besides glxgears

For video, I have an MSI ATI R7870

Thank you.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *max3232*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I am a new 990fxa-ud3 owner. I've never overclocked any of my PCs. But seeing as I was able to keep temps really low with no OC with the stock HSF and Arctic Silver Ceramique I want to give it a shot just for fun. I actually have a background in HPC, somewhat. But not just for fun, for work.
> 
> I need to buy a CPU HSF. I want something compact and efficient that wont break the bank, this started out as sort of a budget build to replace an aging AMD64 system, which itself replaced an Athlon 2 which replaced an Athlon. So I guess I am a loyal AMD person. LOL.
> 
> So, I was leaning towards this low profile Scythe which has some overhang on the fan so hopefully I could have aimed that right down on the spot that gets the hottest,but the reviews here of that cooler dont seem so great.
> 
> I am not wedded to that choice.. its mostly because its reputed to be pretty quiet as well as move a lot of heat, and because it seems like a good balance between cooling and cost in a low profile unit. Could I use a taller cooler. maybe, but the clearance would be just millimeters with a 159 mm HSF. I have the standard ATX style case, its a DIY PC FM-03 which is a standard width.
> 
> Also, does anybody know of good, quick benchmarking apps on Linux, besides glxgears
> 
> For video, I have an MSI ATI R7870
> 
> Thank you.


A cheap and pretty good performing HSF is Coolermaster Hyper 212X. It measure 158mm high.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *max3232*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I am a new 990fxa-ud3 owner. I've never overclocked any of my PCs. But seeing as I was able to keep temps really low with no OC with the stock HSF and Arctic Silver Ceramique I want to give it a shot just for fun. I actually have a background in HPC, somewhat. But not just for fun, for work.
> 
> I need to buy a CPU HSF. I want something compact and efficient that wont break the bank, this started out as sort of a budget build to replace an aging AMD64 system, which itself replaced an Athlon 2 which replaced an Athlon. So I guess I am a loyal AMD person. LOL.
> 
> So, I was leaning towards this low profile Scythe which has some overhang on the fan so hopefully I could have aimed that right down on the spot that gets the hottest,but the reviews here of that cooler dont seem so great.
> 
> I am not wedded to that choice.. its mostly because its reputed to be pretty quiet as well as move a lot of heat, and because it seems like a good balance between cooling and cost in a low profile unit. Could I use a taller cooler. maybe, but the clearance would be just millimeters with a 159 mm HSF. I have the standard ATX style case, its a DIY PC FM-03 which is a standard width.
> 
> Also, does anybody know of good, quick benchmarking apps on Linux, besides glxgears
> 
> For video, I have an MSI ATI R7870
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> A cheap and pretty good performing HSF is Coolermaster Hyper 212X. It measure 158mm high.
Click to expand...

will not help.
i highly recommend a h220/CoolerMasters version or full blown water open loop


----------



## Mega Man

... something new and anoying happened... i think i just lost onboard audio... YAY gigabyte, we will see what happens after i reinstall the driver

NVM somehow it got disabled in bios ??!?!?!??


----------



## max3232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A cheap and pretty good performing HSF is Coolermaster Hyper 212X. It measure 158mm high.


Thats one of the ones Ive been looking at. I guess I am a bit concerned about support for it. But I guess they come with an additional backplate which gives them more strength than the supplied backplate with my MB? Is that how its done?

Those things look heavy! But I suppose if I want it to be quiet, use a big fan- thats the way to go. It would be great to be able to overclock it without worries.

My temps right now are very low and when I stress the machine (for example, by compilng a big program) it still stays under 45. But its not overclocked.

A tip which I did this time, for the first time is the long - what's it called- tinting. rubbing the thermal material very aggressively down into any tiny micro-imperfections on the HSF. That is a really good thing to know.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *max3232*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> A cheap and pretty good performing HSF is Coolermaster Hyper 212X. It measure 158mm high.
> 
> 
> 
> Thats one of the ones Ive been looking at. I guess I am a bit concerned about support for it. But I guess they come with an additional backplate which gives them more strength than the supplied backplate with my MB? Is that how its done?
> 
> Those things look heavy! But I suppose if I want it to be quiet, use a big fan- thats the way to go. It would be great to be able to overclock it without worries.
> 
> My temps right now are very low and when I stress the machine (for example, by compilng a big program) it still stays under 45. But its not overclocked.
> 
> A tip which I did this time, for the first time is the long - what's it called- tinting. rubbing the thermal material very aggressively down into any tiny micro-imperfections on the HSF. That is a really good thing to know.
Click to expand...

if it were me the least i would spend on a heatsink is 70ish ( top end air cooler ) again at the min. !


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *max3232*
> 
> Thats one of the ones Ive been looking at. I guess I am a bit concerned about support for it. But I guess they come with an additional backplate which gives them more strength than the supplied backplate with my MB? Is that how its done?
> 
> Those things look heavy! But I suppose if I want it to be quiet, use a big fan- thats the way to go. It would be great to be able to overclock it without worries.
> 
> My temps right now are very low and when I stress the machine (for example, by compilng a big program) it still stays under 45. But its not overclocked.
> 
> A tip which I did this time, for the first time is the long - what's it called- tinting. rubbing the thermal material very aggressively down into any tiny micro-imperfections on the HSF. That is a really good thing to know.


What CPU do you have?

And dont be worried the tower coolers wont break the motherboard.

Imo if you are spending near the $100 mark on air you might as well go a AIO water.

But a budget of what you might want to spend might help.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What CPU do you have?
> 
> And dont be worried the tower coolers wont break the motherboard.
> 
> Imo if you are spending near the $100 mark on air you might as well go a AIO water.
> 
> But a budget of what you might want to spend might help.


There are advantages to air vs AIO water. Just look at this article comparing the Noctua Nh-D14 to AIO water coolers.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nepton-280l-tundra-td02-water3.0-pro-reserator3-max,3607-12.html

The Nh-D14 ends up being much quieter with similar cooling temps.


----------



## max3232

I really dont want to spend more than $50, and $35 would be a lot better. I have some very quiet fans which I can use if an HSF can accept 120 mm fans, so the Cooler Master 212 tower looks good, even if the fan isn't so great I can replace it easily. I just have to do some measurements.

If It fits it will be VERY tight.

I have a FX 6300 CPU. and an AMD r7870 video card and Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 - still getting a few things worked out but by and large everything is going well. I like to use my computer for running software defined radios and its light years faster than the computer I was using for that before.


----------



## Chargeit

Hey.

I have a 990FXA-UD5, and have been having a audio issue since installing the board.

Basically, whenever I watch youtube videos (I haven't noticed while gaming), my volume will go up and down. It always happens in the same spot of the video, but doesn't seem to happen in all videos.

I've tested with headphones, as well as my speakers, and it does it with both.

Has anyone else had this problem? Any idea how to fix it? It's kind of driving me crazy.


----------



## max3232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What CPU do you have?
> 
> And dont be worried the tower coolers wont break the motherboard.
> 
> Imo if you are spending near the $100 mark on air you might as well go a AIO water.
> 
> But a budget of what you might want to spend might help.


I cant spend anything near that much, I'm looking for bargains. The CM 212 cooler is big works well and is cheap, thats a good combination for me!


----------



## Chargeit

I 2nd the 212 evo for mild overclocking. Just don't expect too much and you'll be happy.

I can get my 8320 to 4.2 with my evo. I will be replacing it with a closed loop soon however, since I want more.

**The evo's fan cools nicely, the problem is it can start making noise after awhile. Mine makes noise here and there. Would replace it, if I were planing on keeping it much longer.


----------



## max3232

That sounds like a really interesting problem..

when you say always happens at the same spot, do you mean timing wise- say 45 seconds, 5minutes at 32 seconds, whatever, into some - but not all, videos, the volume goes up or down?

The only thing that comes to mind for me is cache, or the change from playing the video while the rest is streaming and being saved to disk, - the later part of a video will often be smoother for that reason. Maybe you should either enlarge or shrink / shorten your cache/buffer. But then you might get stuttering.

(Disregard what I just said if you have a really fast cable connection, then its just wrong.)


----------



## Chargeit

Same spot as in, if I'm watching a video, and it does it, then it always happens in that video, on those spots..

I think it's some kind of volume equalizer, but, I'm not sure. I've tried everything, disable, and enabled all the different settings yet none seem to work.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *max3232*
> 
> I really dont want to spend more than $50, and $35 would be a lot better. I have some very quiet fans which I can use if an HSF can accept 120 mm fans, so the Cooler Master 212 tower looks good, even if the fan isn't so great I can replace it easily. I just have to do some measurements.
> 
> If It fits it will be VERY tight.
> 
> I have a FX 6300 CPU. and an AMD r7870 video card and Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 - still getting a few things worked out but by and large everything is going well. I like to use my computer for running software defined radios and its light years faster than the computer I was using for that before.


ah sorry i thought you were going 83xx as said a very mild oc, dont expect anything magic, best bet for paste is still dot in the middle
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hey.
> 
> I have a 990FXA-UD5, and have been having a audio issue since installing the board.
> 
> Basically, whenever I watch youtube videos (I haven't noticed while gaming), my volume will go up and down. It always happens in the same spot of the video, but doesn't seem to happen in all videos.
> 
> I've tested with headphones, as well as my speakers, and it does it with both.
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem? Any idea how to fix it? It's kind of driving me crazy.


nope ! tried reinstalling drivers ?


----------



## Chargeit

I just realized that Dolby Home Theater was set back to movie for some reason. Now that I've set it back to my custom settings, it is no longer doing it. I thought it was doing it on my custom settings... It is worth note, it seems like I can fix it by doing custom settings, yet if I were to just turn off Home Theater, it would continue doing it.

So, it's the home theater volume equalizing. I think.

I really need to get around to buying a damned sound card.

***About the 212 evo. I run my FX8320 @ 4.2 with it, but, I can get it stable @4.3 (1.46V).


----------



## Mega Man

good info thanks ! i dont run sound card because anything i use that has that sort of a need for good sound... i have hdmi/toslink for which to my understanding ( very very small ) is unedited digital sound


----------



## Chargeit

I want to get one sooner or later, just to take stress off the CPU (Not that it should matter with a 8 core).

My only issues with sound cards are, the fact that it adds a extra layer of things that can go wrong, and it adds clutter to your case.


----------



## max3232

"Same spot as in, if I'm watching a video, and it does it, then it always happens in that video, on those spots..

I think it's some kind of volume equalizer, but, I'm not sure. I've tried everything, disable, and enabled all the different settings yet none seem to work."

These are long shots but maybe try putting a piece of black tape over the IR sensor-??? to see if some fast motion in the video (?) is maybe triggering the volume to change?

Another wild guess is are these videos where there are commercials, because the volume always jumps up on regular TV for the commercials.


----------



## max3232

re: sound cards USB audio lets you run additional sounds cards with little stress on the CPU. Actually, since sound cards are an outboard chip, - and relative to most other things, sound processing is quite slow.. I really doubt if sound is going to make any difference now.. Maybe 20 years ago.. However, one thing that *might* screw up performance is lots of resampling.. Check that your sound chain is all sampling at the same rate.. 44 khz, 48 kHz, whatever, it doesn't matter as much as that it is just all the same..If you need to use a different rate use even multiples in powers of 2 i.e 2 times, 4 times or 8 times.


----------



## max3232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hey.
> 
> I have a 990FXA-UD5, and have been having a audio issue since installing the board.
> 
> Basically, whenever I watch youtube videos (I haven't noticed while gaming), my volume will go up and down. It always happens in the same spot of the video, but doesn't seem to happen in all videos.
> 
> I've tested with headphones, as well as my speakers, and it does it with both.
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem? Any idea how to fix it? It's kind of driving me crazy.


Look at whatever they have on Windows that shows a list of your CPU's processes and see if anything changes at that point, say, some new process starts?


----------



## max3232

So, I just decided to go with a Noctua NH-L12- $64, a bit more than I wanted to spend but silent PC review said it was the best one in its size that they had tested, ( http://www.silentpcreview.com/Noctua_NH-L12 ) ... and so far their advice has been right on for me.

I have this really open casethat lets all the noise out, and even with that its so quiet at idle I can hear the hard disk seek noise.. But under load the CPU fan jumps up a lot and gets annoying so this Noctua should take care of that..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> There are advantages to air vs AIO water. Just look at this article comparing the Noctua Nh-D14 to AIO water coolers.
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/nepton-280l-tundra-td02-water3.0-pro-reserator3-max,3607-12.html
> 
> The Nh-D14 ends up being much quieter with similar cooling temps.


I think that I will be happiest with a good solid HSF. Then I can play overclocker "without fear"..

Our household is probably the only household on our block where a giant tube of thermal grease is one of our household supplies.. (my wife is an engineer) so I have to struggle to keep up.


----------



## max3232

We have a similar strange volume problem on our Samsung TV but even though its a known problem they have no interest in fixing it, since its off its guarantee period..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I just realized that Dolby Home Theater was set back to movie for some reason. Now that I've set it back to my custom settings, it is no longer doing it. I thought it was doing it on my custom settings... It is worth note, it seems like I can fix it by doing custom settings, yet if I were to just turn off Home Theater, it would continue doing it.
> 
> So, it's the home theater volume equalizing. I think.
> 
> I really need to get around to buying a damned sound card.
> 
> ***About the 212 evo. I run my FX8320 @ 4.2 with it, but, I can get it stable @4.3 (1.46V).


----------



## Chargeit

I don't have a IR sensor.

Dolby Home Theater is a program for the built in audio that came with this board.

It's the only way I can control my audio functions, such as the equalizer.

One thing I did, when having the problem was to remove windows default sound drives, and install just the Gigabyte ones. I don't have access to windows built in sound options, unless I reinstalled those drives.

That sucks about your Samsung tv. We have a Samsung plasma, that was cheap, but, does have very nice built in audio. It happens I guess. I'm assuming you've updated your TV firmware.


----------



## nidzakv

So, is there a solution for this restart problem, when pc shuts down for few seconds, then buts up...? Ud3 rev4.0 latest bios..


----------



## Mega Man

enable turbo and set to your main cpu multi


----------



## nidzakv

That sounds a bit unserious


----------



## dmfree88

Hes right it usually works. Can also try enabling turbo and using ccc to disable turbo. Sometimes that fixes restart problem and atleast lets you keep it disabled. If that doesnt work just keeping it enabled at same clock as cpu should work


----------



## Mega Man

see i dont spread misinformation !


----------



## DarkRanger

I had this problem with my 990FXA-UD3 Rev. 4, and yes, enabling the turbo core was the solution for me.

With some testing, I realized that the bios is actually disabling the turbo core as soon as you set the CPU voltage to anything except auto and normal. The thing is that you won't see the turbo core off in the bios, but when you open your AMD Overdrive, you will see that the turbo core is disabled, and you can confirm that by monitoring the multi of your CPU cores. But don't ask me why, if you just disable the turbo core by the direct setting in the bios, you will suffer from this strange boot/off for few seconds/boot thing (on bios F2 at the moment).

This way I am able to play with my FSB (250 right now), Multi, any voltage settings and my PC boot and reboot without powering down.

Hope this help!


----------



## Chargeit

Yo, both this 990FXA-UD5, and my old 970A-UD3 does the on off boot thing.

It's a pain. I'm going to try turning turbo on in bios, and off in CCC as suggested. (It's a minor issue "IMO", but still)

*Both rev. 3

I did as suggested, and it works.









Turbo on, set to CPU multiplier.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkRanger*
> 
> I had this problem with my 990FXA-UD3 Rev. 4, and yes, enabling the turbo core was the solution for me.
> 
> With some testing, I realized that the bios is actually disabling the turbo core as soon as you set the CPU voltage to anything except auto and normal. The thing is that you won't see the turbo core off in the bios, but when you open your AMD Overdrive, you will see that the turbo core is disabled, and you can confirm that by monitoring the multi of your CPU cores. But don't ask me why, if you just disable the turbo core by the direct setting in the bios, you will suffer from this strange boot/off for few seconds/boot thing (on bios F2 at the moment).
> 
> This way I am able to play with my FSB (250 right now), Multi, any voltage settings and my PC boot and reboot without powering down.
> 
> Hope this help!


to my knowledge on ALL my boards ( sabertooth r2.0, CVFz, and UD7 ) AOD when installed will have turbo off, on some every boot up i would have to enable it to use it, that is just the software as it loads up.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yo, both this 990FXA-UD5, and my old 970A-UD3 does the on off boot thing.
> 
> It's a pain. I'm going to try turning turbo on in bios, and off in CCC as suggested. (It's a minor issue "IMO", but still)


all rev 3/4s do it to my knowledge


----------



## dmfree88

luckily my rev1.1 doesnt have that problem


----------



## Chargeit

The rev 3 bs is worth it, considering I got the UD5 for $154 after mail in =D. If I weren't such a sucker for a deal, I'd of bought a sabertooth... I just can't pass up a mail in.

These boards requires more extreme measures. It for instance, throttled my FX8320 without a bios update... Screw turbo, the damned thing wouldn't even run at stated speed. But hey, I can always 3 way on this sob... Even though I only have one GPU... It adds an inch.


----------



## bbond007

I finally got my $10 visa card for my REV4 and put it towards more monitors.

the UD3 is sufficient for my AMD FX needs.

looks like FX is end of life anyway. Glad I did not spend the money for a sabertooth.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I finally got my $10 visa card for my REV4 and put it towards more monitors.
> 
> the UD3 is sufficient for my AMD FX needs.
> 
> looks like FX is end of life anyway. Glad I did not spend the money for a sabertooth.


thats what you say now till they improve the vishera and push out a 6ghz stock that doesnt run on your mobo







. Never know what could happen


----------



## nidzakv

This actualy work









Thanx Mega Man


----------



## Mega Man

glad you got it taken care of!


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> thats what you say now till they improve the vishera and push out a 6ghz stock that doesnt run on your mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Never know what could happen


you mean just like a another factory overclocked 8350 like the rest of FX9's







what would be the TDP on that one? 375 watt?

no thanks... Its just too much heat and I don't want to overwork my home central air system


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by dmfree88
> 
> thats what you say now till they improve the vishera and push out a 6ghz stock that doesnt run on your mobo tongue.gif. Never know what could happen tongue.gif


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> you mean just like a another factory overclocked 8350 like the rest of FX9's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what would be the TDP on that one? 375 watt?
> 
> no thanks... Its just too much heat and I don't want to overwork my home central air system


LOL.

Remember guys, AMD steamroller (KAVERI) samples were already seen having improved IPC. Truth or not, we need not to expect AMD to play the GHz game anymore.

AMD has been losing to Intel not in the GHz game but in IPC performance. So the wise thinking is to improve IPC.

Let's just say one chip has 25% better IPC compared to another at same clocks.
Say at 4GHz with 25% better IPC, the lesser one would need to clock 1GHz more to compensate for the deficit. But that of course will have some drawbacks. Heat, Power Consumption, and so on. And this is just talking about same architectures.

I think that's one of the reasons why AMD decides to hold off Steamroller.

I'm crossing fingers when AMD decides to reveal Steamroller, or their new Desktop Computing Processor, IPC would be furthered compared to Vishera's improvement over Bulldozer.


----------



## JT 8350

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> glad you got it taken care of!


tried setting the turbo clock to the same as CPU multi (x24 @4.8ghz).
It completely nuked my voltages (up from 1.45V to 1.55V) and AMD overdrive is showing that turbo core is enabled.....


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JT 8350*
> 
> tried setting the turbo clock to the same as CPU multi (x24 @4.8ghz).
> It completely nuked my voltages (up from 1.45V to 1.55V) and AMD overdrive is showing that turbo core is enabled.....


What do you have your LLC set to?

4.8 off of 1.45V sounds kind of low (Which is why turbo may be adjusting it). I'm going to assume you need a much higher voltage for 4.8. I needed something like 1.46V for 4.3 if I remember correctly (I'm set lower atm).

What CPU cooler are you using btw?

I noticed this is your first post,

Mention your system specs

CPU
Mobo
PSU
CPU cooler


----------



## JT 8350

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> What do you have your LLC set to?
> 
> 4.8 off of 1.45V sounds kind of low (Which is why turbo may be adjusting it). I'm going to assume you need a much higher voltage for 4.8. I needed something like 1.46V for 4.3 if I remember correctly (I'm set lower atm).
> 
> What CPU cooler are you using btw?
> 
> I noticed this is your first post,
> 
> Mention your system specs
> 
> CPU
> Mobo
> PSU
> CPU cooler


my bad, and yes its 1.45Vcore (+0.75) with LLC(high) bumping it to 1.47 under load. Stable under OCCT for 20min with no droop or downclock.

The hyper 212 evo i had in there before ran at 4.6Ghz stable with 1.4V (+0.25). With this clock it would go down to 1.4ghz with C&C enabled but now at 4.8ghz it only goes down to 4.2ghz for some reason

System Specs will be added to profile asap..or not cause i cant find how.

fx 8350
gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 Rev3.
corsair cx 600W
corsair h100i


----------



## Chargeit

Drop the LLC first off. Try auto and see what it does. I'd have to check my bios, I don't remember which I used. THe thing is, LLC can be dangerous, and voltage spike your CPU.

Really, what you want to do is start low.

20 min wouldn't be what I consider stable. Many of my attempted oc give out at 2 hour.

Also, LLC tries to give your system enough power to run. So, what happens is, you set your voltage too low, and LLC compensates for it. The problem being the fact that it will spike the hell out of your cpu.

I just checked, and I have LLC set to auto.

I'd start lower myself.

If you have been stable up until this point, I'm thinking you've been getting throttled (CPU multiplier dropping to avoid cpu damage). Basically, I did the same thing for awhile. I set my voltage low, relied on LLC, and jacked up my multiplier. This was doing nothing but causing my system to not only throttle, but also under perform.

After restarting, and going slower, I ended up with a lower oc, but, things such as my benchmarks went up.


----------



## JT 8350

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Drop the LLC first off. Try auto and see what it does. I'd have to check my bios, I don't remember which I used. THe thing is, LLC can be dangerous, and voltage spike your CPU.
> 
> Really, what you want to do is start low.
> 
> 20 min wouldn't be what I consider stable. Many of my attempted oc give out at 2 hour.
> 
> Also, LLC tries to give your system enough power to run. So, what happens is, you set your voltage too low, and LLC compensates for it. The problem being the fact that it will spike the hell out of your cpu.
> 
> I just checked, and I have LLC set to auto.
> 
> I'd start lower myself.
> 
> If you have been stable up until this point, I'm thinking you've been getting throttled (CPU multiplier dropping to avoid cpu damage). Basically, I did the same thing for awhile. I set my voltage low, relied on LLC, and jacked up my multiplier. This was doing nothing but causing my system to not only throttle, but also under perform.
> 
> After restarting, and going slower, I ended up with a lower oc, but, things such as my benchmarks went up.


AUTO is the worst thing ever...it will spike the hell out of your CPU. Switch it immediately!

Nope, no CPU throttling...have checked. I must have gotten a good chip.

Anyway, my real question is regarding the restart at bootup thing. Turning on Turbo not only didnt fix it it wrecked the OC


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JT 8350*
> 
> AUTO is the worst thing ever...it will spike the hell out of your CPU. Switch it immediately!
> 
> Nope, no CPU throttling...have checked. I must have gotten a good chip.
> 
> Anyway, my real question is regarding the restart at bootup thing. Turning on Turbo not only didnt fix it it wrecked the OC


It doesn't need to spike your cpu if your voltage is set correctly. I haven't had any issues with auto, I don't think it's as aggressive as high.

Yea, the reason turning on turbo wrecked your voltage is because you've got it set way too low.


----------



## Chargeit

Think of it like this.

You're setting it to turbo boost, then telling it the multiplier that you're using.

It see that it's at that multiplier, and sets the voltage to what it thinks is required to run at that speed.

That's what it sounds like to me, more or less.


----------



## JT 8350

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Think of it like this.
> 
> You're setting it to turbo boost, then telling it the multiplier that you're using.
> 
> It see that it's at that multiplier, and sets the voltage to what it thinks is required to run at that speed.
> 
> That's what it sounds like to me, more or less.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> glad you got it taken care of!


well it also put the multi up to 12ghz according to the monitoring software so i think there is a whole bunch going wrong


----------



## Chargeit

You might want to go back to your previous settings.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JT 8350*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> glad you got it taken care of!
> 
> 
> 
> tried setting the turbo clock to the same as CPU multi (x24 @4.8ghz).
> It completely nuked my voltages (up from 1.45V to 1.55V) and AMD overdrive is showing that turbo core is enabled.....
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JT 8350*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Think of it like this.
> 
> You're setting it to turbo boost, then telling it the multiplier that you're using.
> 
> It see that it's at that multiplier, and sets the voltage to what it thinks is required to run at that speed.
> 
> That's what it sounds like to me, more or less.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> glad you got it taken care of!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> well it also put the multi up to 12ghz according to the monitoring software so i think there is a whole bunch going wrong
Click to expand...

this does not make any sense...

1 turbo when enabled bumps vid to 1.4 think accordingly ( you said it moved you from 1.45 to 1.5 betting your non turbo vid is ~1.3?

2 12ghz? did you set your turbo multi or did you leave it at stock ?


----------



## JT 8350

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this does not make any sense...
> 
> 1 turbo when enabled bumps vid to 1.4 think accordingly ( you said it moved you from 1.45 to 1.5 betting your non turbo vid is ~1.3?
> 
> 2 12ghz? did you set your turbo multi or did you leave it at stock ?


1 my normal vid is indeed 1.3...so I guess that explains the bump in vcore. Will have to fix that.

2 set turbo to x24 just like the normal CPU multi. I'm guessing this part was actually just an error in the monitoring software


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

So... question for any UD5 rev 1.1 owners... have any of you run with a SSD boot drive and if so what problems and troubleshooting did you have to go through to get it up and running?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> So... question for any UD5 rev 1.1 owners... have any of you run with a SSD boot drive and if so what problems and troubleshooting did you have to go through to get it up and running?


I have UD5 rev 1.1 and SSD boot drive and have zero issues with it, why? did you have one?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> So... question for any UD5 rev 1.1 owners... have any of you run with a SSD boot drive and if so what problems and troubleshooting did you have to go through to get it up and running?


I have rev 1.1 ud5 with a corsair force ssd never had any issues with it.


----------



## M3TAl

Who here is well versed in SpeedFan and PWM? I'm testing the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter with 8 Cougar Vortex fans. Took me forever to figure out how to get manual control (changing from 0-100% on readings menu) but I just now got that working. Still can't figure out how to get fan curve working...

So how do we get the fan curve working?

Another thing, these fans make electronic noises at certain PWM % (45% seems the worst so far, like a low hum/frequency) and from what I understand that is somewhat normal for PWM fans? I can get the noise to drastically decrease or maybe it goes away completely by changing a setting in Advanced called PWMOUT clock.

What in the world is PWMOUT clock? Default is 3M. When changed to 6M the noise at 45% PWM goes away almost entirely. When changed to 1.5M there's a very high frequency electrical noise.

EDIT: Been googling PWMOUT clock, haven't really found any info. A few people here and there say put it on 3M. They never say why though or what happens if you run it at something else.









EDIT 2: Went in the SpeedFan help file and found this. Still very vague but it seems it's ok to experiment with different values?
Quote:


> We will take a closer look at the properties that appeared for the IT8712F since SpeedFan 4.19: "PWM x mode" and "PWMOUT clock". Up to SpeedFan 4.18, SpeedFan applied some custom settings when first detecting this chip. These settings allowed some computers to be able to change fan speeds, overriding some (eventually missing) settings applied by the BIOS. The fact that those settings were applied only upon detection caused the same settings to be overriden by the BIOS after a Resume from Hibernation, forcing you to restart SpeedFan to be able to change fan speeds again. Now those settings are no longer automatically applied. This means that some motherboards will no longer be able to change fan speeds. If this is your case, just enter CONFIG / ADVANCED and set "PWM x mode" to Software Controlled. I suggest you to set "PWMOUT clock" to 3M as this seems to be the best choice, but, if your fan is not too smooth when changing fan speeds or makes odd noises, you can try different settings.


----------



## nidzakv

I've just instaled win8 64 bit, and i got random freezes.. Its software i guess, so can someone tell me what mobo software should i instal? Chipset, usb3, ahci, etc ???

Any bios setings?

UD3 rev4.0


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> I've just instaled win8 64 bit, and i got random freezes.. Its software i guess, so can someone tell me what mobo software should i instal? Chipset, usb3, ahci, etc ???
> 
> Any bios setings?
> 
> UD3 rev4.0


I did not need to really install anything special other than nvidia drivers for windows 8.1 preview or Windows 8.0.

I do know that both do go online and find a bunch of stuff on their own...

I was running 8.1 preview but was having an issue of freeze-ups when using nvidia 2D surround with accessory +1 monitor.

Turned out to be a know issue with 8.1 so I decided to fall-back to 8.0 for a while so I could use the accessory monitor.

After installing 8.0 on a different SSD(plex M5), the computer was stable, but experiencing random 15 second or so freeze-ups occasionally (typically while Chrome was "Waiting for Cache").

I did some research into the Chrome cache freeze-ups and I just was a lot of rubes claiming that their hardware was "perfectly stable" and the fixes were pretty wonky and usually involved relocating where chrome stored its cache. For that reason I suspected it was a problem with the Plextor M5 SSD, so I used Paragon Hard Disk Manager to clone the Plex SSD over to the original Crucial M4 SSD (overwriting Windows 8.1 preview) and the freeze-ups quit occurring.

Not sure whats going on with that Plextor SSD.... I have recently tried several OS on it prior to the windows 8.0, so Right now I'm letting it sit idle in the hopes that it will trim or defrag or whatever maintenance it needs to do. That was part of the fix that the Crucial M4 support person has me do when that SSD quit working. Actually that SSD had a bug in the firmware causing it to reboot every 2 hours after 5000 total hours of use







crazy!


----------



## nidzakv

Ok, thanks..

But, i think my problems were nvidia's drivers.. After removing the self instaled drivers, and using driver sweaper, i installed the latest, and the freezes are gone.. Past abouth 6 hours without problems..


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Question about my build i am doing.

I started up my system for the first time today and went into bios to see how the cpu temp was and since i have a PWM cable to my water pump to allow the motherboard to control the rpm of the pump.. I noticed that even with that installed the pump was defaulting to 4500rpm. Now i have a dual pump water pump so could it be that both pumps are being defaulted to 4500rpm or the motherboard is telling each one to run at 2250rpm and that is just a total about in bios? Another quick question with this motherboard i saw the memory being defaulted at 1333mhz that can be quickly changed to right? i was looking for 1866. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Also i do have the PWM cable plugged into the cpu fan header on the mobo.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0097_zps0b4e7a63.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0098_zps96371653.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0099_zps759994e6.jpg.html


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I have UD5 rev 1.1 and SSD boot drive and have zero issues with it, why? did you have one?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> I have rev 1.1 ud5 with a corsair force ssd never had any issues with it.


I just picked up a Samsung 840 EVO 250GB... and regardless of what I've tried thus far in BIOS and what SATA port I've connected it too, it won't work as the boot device. I'll either get to the Windows load screen and the pc will restart before bringing up the log-in page, or it will not get as far as the Windows load screen before restarting... Either one brings up a windows boot error screen. Not too sure what to do at this point and I'm beginning to wonder if maybe perhaps it's a conflicting issue with the Marvell on-board controller or something with the F12 BIOS from Gigabyte for the board. All the drivers from Samsung are the the most current update, so I would think it's not anything with the SSD, as I can access it just fine from Windows so long as it isn't the selected first boot device.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I just picked up a Samsung 840 EVO 250GB... and regardless of what I've tried thus far in BIOS and what SATA port I've connected it too, it won't work as the boot device. I'll either get to the Windows load screen and the pc will restart before bringing up the log-in page, or it will not get as far as the Windows load screen before restarting... Either one brings up a windows boot error screen. Not too sure what to do at this point and I'm beginning to wonder if maybe perhaps it's a conflicting issue with the Marvell on-board controller or something with the F12 BIOS from Gigabyte for the board. All the drivers from Samsung are the the most current update, so I would think it's not anything with the SSD, as I can access it just fine from Windows so long as it isn't the selected first boot device.


It almost sounds like a Windows problem. But I am no genius.

Have you tried exploring the issue in "Window Safe Mode" ?

Does it happen when you reset BIOS?

My thought is contact the user "Sean Webster", they are a genius IMO for all things windows.


----------



## Chargeit

Don't use the Marvell port.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I just picked up a Samsung 840 EVO 250GB... and regardless of what I've tried thus far in BIOS and what SATA port I've connected it too, it won't work as the boot device. I'll either get to the Windows load screen and the pc will restart before bringing up the log-in page, or it will not get as far as the Windows load screen before restarting... Either one brings up a windows boot error screen. Not too sure what to do at this point and I'm beginning to wonder if maybe perhaps it's a conflicting issue with the Marvell on-board controller or something with the F12 BIOS from Gigabyte for the board. All the drivers from Samsung are the the most current update, so I would think it's not anything with the SSD, as I can access it just fine from Windows so long as it isn't the selected first boot device.


Have you set the SSD as AHCI in bios and windows?

I used to had a problem before but that was because i did not set it to AHCI, and after i did not have any problems.

You can follow this guide for optimal performance: http://www.overclock.net/t/929553/win-7-ssds-setup-and-secrets

But first make sure you plugged the SSD in the sata3 controller and that is not the marvel but the AMD controller, the other one is sata2.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I just picked up a Samsung 840 EVO 250GB... and regardless of what I've tried thus far in BIOS and what SATA port I've connected it too, it won't work as the boot device. I'll either get to the Windows load screen and the pc will restart before bringing up the log-in page, or it will not get as far as the Windows load screen before restarting... Either one brings up a windows boot error screen. Not too sure what to do at this point and I'm beginning to wonder if maybe perhaps it's a conflicting issue with the Marvell on-board controller or something with the F12 BIOS from Gigabyte for the board. All the drivers from Samsung are the the most current update, so I would think it's not anything with the SSD, as I can access it just fine from Windows so long as it isn't the selected first boot device.


disconnect all your other drives. attempt to boot windows, if it works then it works. If it doesn't work then insert your windows recovery disk and hit repair. Sounds to me like your having a boot manger issue. If you follow these steps this will fix this issue.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Who here is well versed in SpeedFan and PWM? I'm testing the Swiftech 8-way PWM splitter with 8 Cougar Vortex fans. Took me forever to figure out how to get manual control (changing from 0-100% on readings menu) but I just now got that working. Still can't figure out how to get fan curve working...
> 
> So how do we get the fan curve working?
> 
> Another thing, these fans make electronic noises at certain PWM % (45% seems the worst so far, like a low hum/frequency) and from what I understand that is somewhat normal for PWM fans? I can get the noise to drastically decrease or maybe it goes away completely by changing a setting in Advanced called PWMOUT clock.
> 
> What in the world is PWMOUT clock? Default is 3M. When changed to 6M the noise at 45% PWM goes away almost entirely. When changed to 1.5M there's a very high frequency electrical noise.
> 
> EDIT: Been googling PWMOUT clock, haven't really found any info. A few people here and there say put it on 3M. They never say why though or what happens if you run it at something else.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT 2: Went in the SpeedFan help file and found this. Still very vague but it seems it's ok to experiment with different values?


Anybody? Still need to know what PWMOUT clock is and how to get the custom fan curve working.


----------



## InsideJob

Made a little video update for my build after moving my GPU to the x16_2 slot to make room for some NB cooling. Figured I'd share here


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Made a little video update for my build after moving my GPU to the x16_2 slot to make room for some NB cooling. Figured I'd share here


Nice rig man,

I saw that you have 5x CM sickleflow fans, i have 2 of them only they are blue. I like them a lot and they move a ton of air and are relatively quiet.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Nice rig man,
> 
> I saw that you have 5x CM sickleflow fans, i have 2 of them only they are blue. I like them a lot and they move a ton of air and are relatively quiet.


Thanks








They are great fans for the price for sure.


----------



## Recursion

Megacpu optimize our FSC Amilo Xa 3530 cpu. It's a small system tray tool and can use the Mega,Fast,Cruise,Low speed options from our cpu. It's ready for the Turion X2 Ultra 2400 Mhz model and soon for the AMD Bulldozer 4170 model. You can download a demo here or visit my blog. BTW. I have a Gigabyte GA-990FX Ud3 rev.3 and a AMD FX-4170 FX with Megacpu and it works!


----------



## rascas

Finished my cable sleeving. Very Happy with PC, running at 5.19Ghz stable now with FX9590.







Now if only these 4k monitors will drop a little more.


----------



## dmfree88

Gratz, it looks great!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rascas*
> 
> Finished my cable sleeving. Very Happy with PC, running at 5.19Ghz stable now with FX9590.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if only these 4k monitors will drop a little more.


Dang, thats b-e-a-utiful!


----------



## LJRiveraSR

I know the eSata thing was a topic here a while back and I updated my drivers as per those threads but I still have an issue I'm am hopeful you all can help me resolve.

This is my Mainboard - GA-990FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.0)

I purchased this cable:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B1L8FGS/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(Basically an esata cable the provides power and Sata connector to the HDD from a single eSata port. I know the old eSata Standard does not supply power over eSata and now I'm afraid I purchased this cable for nothing. I just thought this mainboard was new enough. can anyone let me know if this would work (my sata drives are not powering on And my BIOS settings have eSata enabled)

I may have answered my own question already but I'm hopeful this mainboard does support it and I have a setting off someplace that I should turn on.

-LJRiveraSR


----------



## baconybacon

Quick question if anybody has tried this and it works.

I was looking for thermal pads to fix a friends old 8800 gpu and I ran across this:



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16671/thr-146/Premium_Adhesive_Thermal_Pad_-_25mm_x_25mm_x_6mm_Motherboard_Backside.html?tl=g8c487s1713

If I ran 5x1 of these down the underside of the mosfets and perhaps a 2x2 under the cpu would that help in any significant way. btw I have a UD3 so, yeah, everything helps.


----------



## M3TAl

To help with mosfet temps I got rid of the plastic push pins for screws and went with 1mm thick Fujipoly (the 11w/mk one). The temp of the VRM heatsink increased 12C (used thermal probe from fan controller) over the stock pad. Much better heat transfer.

Wish there were actual sensors for the mosfets though


----------



## rascas

Quick question about the bios on these boards. I notice that some of the other 990fx boards like the sabertooth have llc for nb/cpu. Since ours do not have this feature does that mean that we are likely suffering some sort of droop on our nb/cpu and in actual fact what we think we are giving the nb is actually less than what it is? Or does our load line that we use for the cpu manage the nb core voltage also.

Also since my bios has no figure for cpu/nb, only an offset, is this something that could be included in a bios update?


----------



## Ulquiorra

Omanoma, the motherbaoard looks awesome! Everything has arrived and its just amazing xD! now to get it built today and start melting the rack its in


----------



## Chargeit

=/
The black board is cool and all, but, I miss the nice and shinny dark blue of my previous "GA-970a-UD3". That thing just popped in a all black case, with a chrome heatsink. Which is funny, because when I first built my system, I had wanted the black board. Now that I have a black board, I miss my old and true blue. The rest of the board looks great however, love the nice and juicy heatsinks, with piping.


----------



## Ulquiorra

having trouble getting it working though, booting with the keyboard in causes it to hang at stage 92 (initalisation of pci), remove it and it works okay hmm. gnna have a play tommrow see whats going on


----------



## Chargeit

Try different ports, or a different keyboard. Make sure to unhook anything else using USB ports.


----------



## dmfree88

What thickness thermal pads should i get for vrm's on the ud5? Is the gap thin enough to use thermal paste or should i just get fujiploy pads? Since the northbridge comes off at the same time is that side paste only or do i need same size thermal pads? Just dont want any surprises when i take it apart cant seem to find info on it anywhere.


----------



## M3TAl

I tried MX-2 on a 970A-UD3 (vrm/mosfet layout is same as UD5?) and it didn't really do much. Fujipoly worked much better. The stock pad on the 970A/990FXA-UD3 is 1mm thick.


----------



## LucentSky

Hey Guys I finally got my Gigabyte 990FX UD3 rev. 4, count me in & to pair the good mobo I choose a w/ 8320 alongside a gtx 7704gb.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> What thickness thermal pads should i get for vrm's on the ud5? Is the gap thin enough to use thermal paste or should i just get fujiploy pads? Since the northbridge comes off at the same time is that side paste only or do i need same size thermal pads? Just dont want any surprises when i take it apart cant seem to find info on it anywhere.


usually just need tim for NB as i am sure you know, use non conductive paste !


----------



## Ulquiorra

Fixed it, the sata have to be in the correct order xD!

Edit :- not so much, now it wont pxe boot :S, hmm weird!


----------



## BramSLI1

I'm sorry if this has probably been asked before, but here goes. I have the original Rev 1.x UD7 and I'm wondering if anyone is aware if it's compatible with the 9370? I think I remember hearing that the issue was that the VRMs would overheat on the older board and since I'm water cooling mine anyway, I should be able to get away with it. If the issue though is that the older board that I have just isn't capable of providing enough power, which I highly doubt, then I'm out of luck.


----------



## herericc

Well if you've overclocked your old AMD cpu on the same mobo it should probably be drawing around the same wattage. I'm sure the VRMs can handle it, especially if you've got a water block on them!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> Well if you've overclocked your old AMD cpu on the same mobo it should probably be drawing around the same wattage. I'm sure the VRMs can handle it, especially if you've got a water block on them!


Thanks for the info.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> What thickness thermal pads should i get for vrm's on the ud5? Is the gap thin enough to use thermal paste or should i just get fujiploy pads? Since the northbridge comes off at the same time is that side paste only or do i need same size thermal pads? Just dont want any surprises when i take it apart cant seem to find info on it anywhere.


A while back i did replace the TIM on my NB with MX-4. The stuff they use in the factory on the NB is very nasty and hard stuff that will not come off easily, so that you know.

I had great difficulty to remove/cut the older TIM carefully and not damage or scratch the heat sink or the NB itself because it was so hard and sticky.

When i replaced it with MX-4 i did get slightly better temps, usually they were around 30-30c at idle and between 50-60c at load depending on the ambient temp of course. Now the temperature dropped by 5c at load, so that is a nice improvement.

I checked the VRM as well but i did not see any reason replacing that for something better. Maybe at a later time i will replace that as well.

I can highly recommend the MX-4 TIM because i have great experience with it a long many other people. no matter where i apply it the temps will drop a certain degree. Also it is non conductive and non curing, some TIM needs to cure first for a certain time because it has to ''settle'' so that you will get the best results possible.

Good luck


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucentSky*
> 
> Hey Guys I finally got my Gigabyte 990FX UD3 rev. 4, count me in & to pair the good mobo I choose a w/ 8320 alongside a gtx 7704gb.


Nice picking, I have the rev 4.0 with a 8350 and a GTX 770 as well, but mine is only a 2 Gb


----------



## Soundigy

Guys,

I have "Kingston 10th Anniversary 2x4GB DDR3-1866 *1.65V*" kit on this motherboard rev.4(+ FX8350), but now I accidentally saw this on Gigabyte's website:
Quote:


> _Specifications
> 
> Memory: 4 x *1.5V* DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 32 GB of system memory._


Is this a problem? 1.65V memory, on this 1.5v sockets?

Thanks!


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I have "Kingston 10th Anniversary 2x4GB DDR3-1866 *1.65V*" kit on this motherboard rev.4(+ FX8350), but now I accidentally saw this on Gigabyte's website:
> Is this a problem? 1.65V memory, on this 1.5v sockets?
> 
> Thanks!


Shouldn't be a problem. I've been running 1.65v memory on my board for about two years now without issue.


----------



## Soundigy

OK. Thanks for info mate!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I'm sorry if this has probably been asked before, but here goes. I have the original Rev 1.x UD7 and I'm wondering if anyone is aware if it's compatible with the 9370? I think I remember hearing that the issue was that the VRMs would overheat on the older board and since I'm water cooling mine anyway, I should be able to get away with it. If the issue though is that the older board that I have just isn't capable of providing enough power, which I highly doubt, then I'm out of luck.


it shouldnt be an issue, i am pushing 4.8 on mine 24/7 with other things pushed hard without issue ! i am sure i can get 5ghz stable 24/7 ( non turbo ) with some time to play with it again


----------



## Demonkev666

I can't seem to get my usb 3.0 to work under windows

I can see my drive in the bios when it's plugged in :/

something funny here is nice little glitch when went a little unstable lol


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonkev666*
> 
> I can't seem to get my usb 3.0 to work under windows
> 
> I can see my drive in the bios when it's plugged in :/
> 
> something funny here is nice little glitch when went a little unstable lol


did you install the driver?


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> did you install the driver?


working now after I installed driver again.
said it was installed already. :-/
oh windows came up installing new device, lazy windows lol


----------



## Mega Man

glad you got it fixed !


----------



## Soundigy

Strange thing is happening to me:

*One month ago, when I bought all components I've already tested with same settings and everything was fine, *now*..

When I slightly OC my CPU, just at 4.3Ghz for example, by rising the multipler, and test it with Prime95 I got _"error-rounding was 0.5 expected less than 0.4"_, within a few seconds, on two cores.

But, If I OC with rising just FSB and not touching multipler, at same frequency 4.3Ghz, everything is fine in Prime95.

Only difference is that when OC via FSB my RAM is at ~1780Mhz and not 1866, because I'm using second XMP profile than, 'cos I don't want to go over 1866. (Profile 1 & 2 have same timings, votlages etc, just memory multipler is different. 1600/1866)
Every other setting is identical.

With both settings everything is fine in *MEMTEST86*, no errors, nothing!
Also everything is fine with both settings in everyday use, I got *no* restarts, freezes, hangs, everything is ok except in Prime95 I got errors.

FX8350
990FXA-UD3 rev.4
Kingston 10th Anniversary 2x4GB 1866
Asus 280x DCUII


----------



## M3TAl

What if you raise multi for 4.3 and lower memory multi for 1600? Does P95 get rounding error then?


----------



## Soundigy

I'm at work. Going home in few hrs, so I'm going to test and tell you little later.


----------



## LucentSky

Im loving the board so far, it sure is an upgrade from a asrock fm2 board but on the asrock it was easier to overclock. As to in this board kind of confuse read a few stickies about temps and etc, if anyone can help the will be cool.


----------



## InsideJob

My board is much happier with a cooler north bridge


----------



## Nerull

was wondering if anyone has used the ud7 for mining, if so can you use powered 1-16x risers in the 16x slot or will the extra power thing they have on them at the back support 5+ cards?


----------



## Chargeit

^^ I had a 80mm fan zip tied to my VRM. It worked well, but, I had to remove it while adding a few parts the other day. They do work well, and I know I'll be adding it again, when I put in my closed loop soon (will order H110 next payday). Damned things just take up so much space when air cooled. Also, they alter the case airflow if you're not careful.


----------



## Soundigy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soundigy*
> 
> Strange thing is happening to me:
> 
> *One month ago, when I bought all components I've already tested with same settings and everything was fine, *now*..
> 
> When I slightly OC my CPU, just at 4.3Ghz for example, by rising the multipler, and test it with Prime95 I got _"error-rounding was 0.5 expected less than 0.4"_, within a few seconds, on two cores.
> 
> But, If I OC with rising just FSB and not touching multipler, at same frequency 4.3Ghz, everything is fine in Prime95.
> 
> Only difference is that when OC via FSB my RAM is at ~1780Mhz and not 1866, because I'm using second XMP profile than, 'cos I don't want to go over 1866. (Profile 1 & 2 have same timings, votlages etc, just memory multipler is different. 1600/1866)
> Every other setting is identical.
> 
> With both settings everything is fine in *MEMTEST86*, no errors, nothing!
> Also everything is fine with both settings in everyday use, I got *no* restarts, freezes, hangs, everything is ok except in Prime95 I got errors.
> 
> FX8350
> 990FXA-UD3 rev.4
> Kingston 10th Anniversary 2x4GB 1866
> Asus 280x DCUII


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What if you raise multi for 4.3 and lower memory multi for 1600? Does P95 get rounding error then?


Same. And than...

I noticed that in HWInfo64 vcore voltage doesn't change from 1.375v, but I know that in bios I set vcore around 1.4v ...
Than to check, I installed AIDA64 and I saw that voltage is really at 1.375v...
Again I set in bios vcore to 1.415 and LLC to medium and now _no rounding errors_ in prime95 (I ran test just few minutes, but earlier it gave me errors asap as ptime95 starts).

But how's that possible, when OC via fsb, no errors, same voltage, same frequency, but when OC via multipler rounding errors in prime95?
Now no errors with multipler, 'cos I rised voltages.. But it was 1.375v and no errors, OC via fsb:wth:


----------



## M3TAl

I've heard of this type of thing happening before. Your chip or board must like FSB OC'in. Some people get stuck at like 4.7-4.8 Ghz using multi and can't OC any higher. Then when they start going for high FSB they can get past their previous max OC.

Or like in your case, sometimes using FSB can allow a lower vcore for stability.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

I am having a problem with my UD3 on the memory clock in BIOS maybe you guys can help me out. I set it to manual and then increase the memory clock on my ram from x6.66 1333Mhz to x9.33 1866Mhz. Reason i do that is i am running corsair gt 1866Mhz ram. I go to exit and save restart back into BIOS and the bios have defaulted it back to 1333Mhz back on Auto.

Every time i save to bios and PC restarts my DRAM EOCP is set to DDR1866 set memory clock is on manual but memory clock keeps going to auto 1333Mhz..

Just tried running them at 1600Mhz and still no luck. come back to 1333Mhz?? Tried rising my voltage to 1.650volts and still didn't work.

I just don't understand, how could it say overclocking when the motherboard is meant to run 1866 non overclocked?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Do you need to change your timings?


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Do you need to change your timings?


I changed the timing in BIOS to 9-9-9-24-5 and still nothing. I brought up gigabyte easy tune and saw this. Still dunno.

Should i try updating my BIOS?

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0131_zps1467b446.jpg.html


----------



## ginger_nuts

If you have tried clearing the CMOS, removing the battery etc, then yes, try updating the BIOS, you have nothing to lose.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Clearing my CMOS will help me with a hardware issue? That pretty much reset everything to stock right? This is first start up on my desktop since putting it all together and installing windows 7 today. I will try updating the Bios. From what it looks like i am on 990-fxa-ud3 Rev 1.1 Bios F8


----------



## JT 8350

Has anyone got a fix for the double startup issue yet?


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JT 8350*
> 
> Has anyone got a fix for the double startup issue yet?


leave turbo enabled and set turbo multiplier = to cpu multiplier if you don't want the double startup.


----------



## JT 8350

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> leave turbo enabled and set turbo multiplier = to cpu multiplier if you don't want the double startup.


I tried that and it did weird things to my CPU with the overclock. I never did check if it actually fixed the boot issue because of that lol


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Clearing my CMOS will help me with a hardware issue? That pretty much reset everything to stock right? This is first start up on my desktop since putting it all together and installing windows 7 today. I will try updating the Bios. From what it looks like i am on 990-fxa-ud3 Rev 1.1 Bios F8


Your BIOS is the brains behind everything communicating.

Unless the sticks have a false sticker on them, as far as I know ram speeds are not hardware but more firmware. You could run memtest, but this will only be testing if it runs at 1333 as you can not POST with 1866. Have you also tried one stick at a time?


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Your BIOS is the brains behind everything communicating.
> 
> Unless the sticks have a false sticker on them, as far as I know ram speeds are not hardware but more firmware. You could run memtest, but this will only be testing if it runs at 1333 as you can not POST with 1866. Have you also tried one stick at a time?


No haven't tried one stick at a time that would probably make me have to drain my loop or either take the darn w/b off the ram and test with this memtest program you mention. I do however need a Bios update. I don't want to go and put beta bios on my mobo don't think that would be to smart. windows reading 8gb of ram?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> No haven't tried one stick at a time that would probably make me have to drain my loop or either take the darn w/b off the ram and test with this memtest program you mention. I do however need a Bios update. I don't want to go and put beta bios on my mobo don't think that would be to smart. windows reading 8gb of ram?


Make sure you have the latest bios, than reset bios at default settings.

Try your RAM profile, you can set the multiplier but also you have RAM profiles, try to use profile 1 or 2 it will reset all the settings to its default and adjust timings and voltage of the RAM.

If that does not work you have faulty RAM and should return it.


----------



## IOXYE

How do I disable Cool n Quiet on EUFI bios? I have the rev. 4.0.
Thanks.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Make sure you have the latest bios, than reset bios at default settings.
> 
> Try your RAM profile, you can set the multiplier but also you have RAM profiles, try to use profile 1 or 2 it will reset all the settings to its default and adjust timings and voltage of the RAM.
> 
> If that does not work you have faulty RAM and should return it.


Sorry but i can clearly say i am a newbe at this when it comes to bios on this board. i am so use to Asus but i wanted to give the ud3 i try. Here is my run down of what is going on and what ram i am using.

I updated my bios on the rev 1.1 to F9 the latest.

Here is the ram i purchased and installed

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145291

This is what i do.

I start up the PC go into bios.

start by checking the memory clock to manual. here the picture.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0136_zps0a019c80.jpg.html

once i set it to 1866. which isn't overclocking it because the motherboard can use 1866 stand 2000 would be overclocking it.

i go into the setting to set the timing.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0135_zps7e6a58b2.jpg.html

set the timing i want.

hit F10 save and restart and i get this everytime.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0137_zps2ba2cbad.jpg.html

I dunno?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Sorry but i can clearly say i am a newbe at this when it comes to bios on this board. i am so use to Asus but i wanted to give the ud3 i try. Here is my run down of what is going on and what ram i am using.
> 
> I updated my bios on the rev 1.1 to F9 the latest.
> 
> Here is the ram i purchased and installed
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145291
> 
> This is what i do.
> 
> I start up the PC go into bios.
> 
> start by checking the memory clock to manual. here the picture.
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0136_zps0a019c80.jpg.html
> 
> once i set it to 1866. which isn't overclocking it because the motherboard can use 1866 stand 2000 would be overclocking it.
> 
> i go into the setting to set the timing.
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0135_zps7e6a58b2.jpg.html
> 
> set the timing i want.
> 
> hit F10 save and restart and i get this everytime.
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0137_zps2ba2cbad.jpg.html
> 
> I dunno?


Okay, first of all very good info
 








You disabled the DRAM E.O.C.P enable that and set the RAM profile to profile1 that will set your RAM to 1866 with the correct timings and voltage settings.

Did you populate the proper RAM slots? you need to populate the first that is the closest to the CPU and the second is the third slot to the right. You need to populate the right slots to make them run at dual channel.

Let me know if that works otherwise there are some other things you can do also, but try this one first.

Good luck


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Make sure you have the latest bios, than reset bios at default settings.
> 
> Try your RAM profile, you can set the multiplier but also you have RAM profiles, try to use profile 1 or 2 it will reset all the settings to its default and adjust timings and voltage of the RAM.
> 
> If that does not work you have faulty RAM and should return it.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry but i can clearly say i am a newbe at this when it comes to bios on this board. i am so use to Asus but i wanted to give the ud3 i try. Here is my run down of what is going on and what ram i am using.
> 
> I updated my bios on the rev 1.1 to F9 the latest.
> 
> Here is the ram i purchased and installed
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145291
> 
> This is what i do.
> 
> I start up the PC go into bios.
> 
> start by checking the memory clock to manual. here the picture.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0136_zps0a019c80.jpg.html
> 
> once i set it to 1866. which isn't overclocking it because the motherboard can use 1866 stand 2000 would be overclocking it.
> 
> i go into the setting to set the timing.
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0135_zps7e6a58b2.jpg.html
> 
> set the timing i want.
> 
> hit F10 save and restart and i get this everytime.
> 
> http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0137_zps2ba2cbad.jpg.html
> 
> 
> I dunno?
Click to expand...

in the provided pics you are leaving the voltage on auto with will normally default to 1.5v, your ram is 1.65v, i would try manually setting the volts to 1.65~1.675 ( my ud7 has voltage drop bad on the ram )

then tell us what happens


----------



## dmfree88

Also if i recall correctly from your previous post as mega mentioned the profile said atleast 1.6v but also i believe it said 9 9 9 36 (which seems strange but i coulda swore thats what ur gpuz image showed) and your timings in bios were set to 9 9 9 24. Setting to eocp may auto set this properly but if u find out your exact stock timings/volts then u should be able to keep eocp disabled and set everything manually. As mega said usually some droop so set a tad high on volts to compensate once u get it to boot u can adjust after u can see what its drooping to.


----------



## hurricane28

I had exactly the same board and there is no difference in setting compare to my UD5 REV 1.1

just set the DRAm E.O.C.P to profile 1 and the voltage and timings are set at the factory defaults and everything should be just fine.

My board also has a very bad RAM voltage drop, i must raise it to 1.72 in bios to get 1.66 in HWINFO64.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Okay so i have tried every way possible then i still can't get it to work on 1866.

I have 8gb total in ram. 4 sticks installed.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0142_zps035265bb.jpg.html

This was upping the voltage to 1.650v manual 1866 and failed to boot.

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0143_zps21cdc688.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0144_zpsfe638d08.jpg.html

http://s1318.photobucket.com/user/oldfather1987/media/IMAG0145_zpsbeb4be00.jpg.html


----------



## Mega Man

have you bumped cpu/nb to 1.2yet?

also bump nb to same


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Haven't done that yet. So try to raise the north bridge voltage to 1.2 volts and raise the CPU mhz?


----------



## Mega Man

both are voltage
cpu/nb = IMC = labeled CPUNB VID or something simalar iirc
northbridge = northbridge on mobo = labeled Northbridge


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Okay I will try this.


----------



## dmfree88

Did u try adjusting timings manually?


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> both are voltage
> cpu/nb = IMC = labeled CPUNB VID or something simalar iirc
> northbridge = northbridge on mobo = labeled Northbridge


No luck on this either. I still get system fail on boot and it defaults the ram back to 1333.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Did u try adjusting timings manually?


Yes, i have gone into Bios and manual inputted the timing for the specs of the ram 9-9-9-24

Any other ideas you think?
Could it just be Corsair Dom GT is no good for this mobo or am i looking at another problem?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Okay so i have tried every way possible then i still can't get it to work on 1866.
> 
> I have 8gb total in ram. *4 sticks* installed.


There's the problem. Four sticks and 9.33x memory multiplier. I have a Rev 1.1 970A-UD3 and 990FXA-UD3. Ran 4 sticks for 16GB ram on both boards. Using a 9.33x multiplier was a no-go, wouldn't POST most of the time.

You need to drop it to 8x and raise FSB to 233-234. Make sure memory voltages and timings are set correctly. Drop the HT Link, CPU-NB, and CPU Multi's to keep them near stock, until you're ready to start OC'in.


----------



## swiftshot

Buddy I am reading this have the same problems. I got mine to go up to 1866 but its 2400 ram. I am at a loss on what to do I might bump the voltage some more because of V drop.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> No luck on this either. I still get system fail on boot and it defaults the ram back to 1333.
> Yes, i have gone into Bios and manual inputted the timing for the specs of the ram 9-9-9-24
> 
> Any other ideas you think?
> Could it just be Corsair Dom GT is no good for this mobo or am i looking at another problem?


Try these mate.

Set your RAM Profile to Profile 1. That's possibly the profile for 1866 on your sticks.
Set your RAM Voltage to 1.685 or higher. (MOBO has this sort of RAM undervolting. 1.650 on mine just equates to 1.55 or so in Windows or CPU-Z. Mine needs 1.685 on the BIOS to dial 1.65 on CPU-Z)

If that doesn't work, try manually setting up the timings. Or run your voltages higher on the RAMS. Populating all your slots might just need more volts.
When I said timings, it means everything. From the Primary to Secondary to Tertiary up to every sub-timing your can see and adjust.
That requires a lot of work. And readings online.

But to shorten things up, you need to realize that RAM is affected by other things. CPU-NB has the greatest impact to RAM Performance and Stability. You might as well delve into that.

To further ease you up, 1600 versus 1866 offers a little performance gain for everyday use for most of the others.








Yep that's what most of them say. You might as well consider which genre you belong. Coz truth is, you really can't notice the difference between a system running 1866 RAM and a 1600. Try that.

But if you are dead set on 1866, and that's probably what you want for the pieces bought, (functioning at rated and advertised and priced specifications) have a little patience and do some reading/research why you have that problem. OCN has a lot of knowledgeable guys willing to help you as long as you have the patience to try out things they recommend.

Have fun.


----------



## M3TAl

If you're on an UD3 (maybe UD5/7 support higher speeds for 4 sticks?) with 4 sticks of RAM you need to run a lower memory multi than 9.33x. I got nothing but problems and the system wouldn't POST most of the time.

Two sticks with 8.33x memory multi should be fine.


----------



## hurricane28

Strange, i never have any trouble with my RAM whatsoever.

I can do profile1 and i did run them at 2400MHz no problem at all.

Imo there is no need to raise the NB or HT voltages if you run your HT and CPU/NB at stock speeds, you only gain heat and no stability.

Are you sure it is an quad channel kit? I don't want to bash on Corsair but i hear a lot of people have trouble with their RAM.

I should know because i used to own an 1600MHz dual channel Corsair kit and it was nothing but trouble for me. I could not overclock anything at any voltage or timings.

So i got myself a nice dual channel G.Skill kit 1866 and all problems were solved.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you're on an UD3 (maybe UD5/7 support higher speeds for 4 sticks?) with 4 sticks of RAM you need to run a lower memory multi than 9.33x. I got nothing but problems and the system wouldn't POST most of the time.
> 
> Two sticks with 8.33x memory multi should be fine.


when i get home i can post it, but not true, while not all 8350s are guaranteed by amd to run more then 2 slots at 1866, that does not mean you cant


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Try these mate.
> 
> Set your RAM Profile to Profile 1. That's possibly the profile for 1866 on your sticks.
> Set your RAM Voltage to 1.685 or higher. (MOBO has this sort of RAM undervolting. 1.650 on mine just equates to 1.55 or so in Windows or CPU-Z. Mine needs 1.685 on the BIOS to dial 1.65 on CPU-Z)
> 
> If that doesn't work, try manually setting up the timings. Or run your voltages higher on the RAMS. Populating all your slots might just need more volts.
> When I said timings, it means everything. From the Primary to Secondary to Tertiary up to every sub-timing your can see and adjust.
> That requires a lot of work. And readings online.
> 
> But to shorten things up, you need to realize that RAM is affected by other things. CPU-NB has the greatest impact to RAM Performance and Stability. You might as well delve into that.
> 
> To further ease you up, 1600 versus 1866 offers a little performance gain for everyday use for most of the others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that's what most of them say. You might as well consider which genre you belong. Coz truth is, you really can't notice the difference between a system running 1866 RAM and a 1600. Try that.
> 
> But if you are dead set on 1866, and that's probably what you want for the pieces bought, (functioning at rated and advertised and priced specifications) have a little patience and do some reading/research why you have that problem. OCN has a lot of knowledgeable guys willing to help you as long as you have the patience to try out things they recommend.
> 
> Have fun.


I have tried setting the profile to profile1 and its turns the memory clock to 1866 right after i click on the profile1, i didn't set voltage or timing after that because i figure it was all set on Auto. Didn't work on the start up so i will try to go back and set the voltage and timing for profile1 and return with an answer if it works for this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Strange, i never have any trouble with my RAM whatsoever.
> 
> I can do profile1 and i did run them at 2400MHz no problem at all.
> 
> Imo there is no need to raise the NB or HT voltages if you run your HT and CPU/NB at stock speeds, you only gain heat and no stability.
> 
> Are you sure it is an quad channel kit? I don't want to bash on Corsair but i hear a lot of people have trouble with their RAM.
> 
> I should know because i used to own an 1600MHz dual channel Corsair kit and it was nothing but trouble for me. I could not overclock anything at any voltage or timings.
> 
> So i got myself a nice dual channel G.Skill kit 1866 and all problems were solved.


Well the kit i got from Corsair is a 2 stick kit and i purchased two kits. Funny thing is when i try to up the voltage on the ram and pull up CPU-Z and click on memory its like only one of the sticks is clocked at 1.650volts and the others show underneath them 1.5volts. The correct timing is shown on two of the sticks but the others are crazy timing. I will have to post of picture of this for you. I don't even mind trying to get the ram to run at 1600. i just don't like it defaulting back to 1333 when the motherboard is capable of running 1600 1866 without an overclock.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you're on an UD3 (maybe UD5/7 support higher speeds for 4 sticks?) with 4 sticks of RAM you need to run a lower memory multi than 9.33x. I got nothing but problems and the system wouldn't POST most of the time.
> 
> Two sticks with 8.33x memory multi should be fine.


You think maybe i should just run two sticks instead of 4 sticks? Well i mean try running two sticks and putting memory at a 9.33x multiplier to see if the ram clocks at 1866?
I can't get the 4 sticks to even run at 1600 though and with only two sticks in 4gb of ram is all i would have compared to 8gb.


----------



## swiftshot

Man this is annoying. I am running into the same problems with my UD7 and my son's UD3. I have switched the ram over to the UD7 and the Gskill Trident F3-2400 posted at 1333 while my 2100 Gskill sniper posted at 1600. I managed to adjust timing and it bumped to 1866. I got that up.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Ah! Got it to work on 1600mhz. Well it was able to boot at that. I raised the cpu to 215 set voltage to 1.650volts set timing to 9-9-9-24. Does this look right? Going to post a picture.


----------



## dmfree88

seems your bank cycle time is still off (tRC). As i mentioned previously check what your stock voltage and ALL timings are then set them manually. otherwise you will likely run into more errors.. As previous mentioned sometimes ram multipliers dont work right thats probably why you needed fsb bump.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> seems your bank cycle time is still off (tRC). As i mentioned previously check what your stock voltage and ALL timings are then set them manually. otherwise you will likely run into more errors.. As previous mentioned sometimes ram multipliers dont work right thats probably why you needed fsb bump.


His TRC aint that off the line.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Ah! Got it to work on 1600mhz. Well it was able to boot at that. I raised the cpu to 215 set voltage to 1.650volts set timing to 9-9-9-24. Does this look right? Going to post a picture.


Since you are already trying out FSB OC, try out 233 on FSB, hit X8 RAM Multi, bump your voltages to 1.685+V, manually entering every value you can find on the RAMs, subtimings were also important so take that carefully. Most of the subtimings can be manually set to optimal settings. either the highest value allowed or the lowest.

I found that on my UD3, without altering the subtimings I can't OC my RAMs. Took my time to get a hunch of each parameter and just like that. I can run my 1866 Kingstons to 2000 MHz without altering my primary timings from XMP values. Even got up to 2400MHz.

I'm just a bit timid as I can't show you my timings due to work being so hectic after an office transfer.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Try these mate.
> 
> Set your RAM Profile to Profile 1. That's possibly the profile for 1866 on your sticks.
> Set your RAM Voltage to 1.685 or higher. (MOBO has this sort of RAM undervolting. 1.650 on mine just equates to 1.55 or so in Windows or CPU-Z. Mine needs 1.685 on the BIOS to dial 1.65 on CPU-Z)
> 
> If that doesn't work, try manually setting up the timings. Or run your voltages higher on the RAMS. Populating all your slots might just need more volts.
> When I said timings, it means everything. From the Primary to Secondary to Tertiary up to every sub-timing your can see and adjust.
> That requires a lot of work. And readings online.
> 
> But to shorten things up, you need to realize that RAM is affected by other things. CPU-NB has the greatest impact to RAM Performance and Stability. You might as well delve into that.
> 
> To further ease you up, 1600 versus 1866 offers a little performance gain for everyday use for most of the others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that's what most of them say. You might as well consider which genre you belong. Coz truth is, you really can't notice the difference between a system running 1866 RAM and a 1600. Try that.
> 
> But if you are dead set on 1866, and that's probably what you want for the pieces bought, (functioning at rated and advertised and priced specifications) have a little patience and do some reading/research why you have that problem. OCN has a lot of knowledgeable guys willing to help you as long as you have the patience to try out things they recommend.
> 
> Have fun.
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried setting the profile to profile1 and its turns the memory clock to 1866 right after i click on the profile1, i didn't set voltage or timing after that because i figure it was all set on Auto. Didn't work on the start up so i will try to go back and set the voltage and timing for profile1 and return with an answer if it works for this.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Strange, i never have any trouble with my RAM whatsoever.
> 
> I can do profile1 and i did run them at 2400MHz no problem at all.
> 
> Imo there is no need to raise the NB or HT voltages if you run your HT and CPU/NB at stock speeds, you only gain heat and no stability.
> 
> Are you sure it is an quad channel kit? I don't want to bash on Corsair but i hear a lot of people have trouble with their RAM.
> 
> I should know because i used to own an 1600MHz dual channel Corsair kit and it was nothing but trouble for me. I could not overclock anything at any voltage or timings.
> 
> So i got myself a nice dual channel G.Skill kit 1866 and all problems were solved.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well the kit i got from Corsair is a 2 stick kit and i purchased two kits. Funny thing is when i try to up the voltage on the ram and pull up CPU-Z and click on memory its like only one of the sticks is clocked at 1.650volts and the others show underneath them 1.5volts. The correct timing is shown on two of the sticks but the others are crazy timing. I will have to post of picture of this for you. I don't even mind trying to get the ram to run at 1600. i just don't like it defaulting back to 1333 when the motherboard is capable of running 1600 1866 without an overclock.
Click to expand...

just because they are the same kit does not mean they play nicely together, that could be your problem
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swiftshot*
> 
> Man this is annoying. I am running into the same problems with my UD7 and my son's UD3. I have switched the ram over to the UD7 and the Gskill Trident F3-2400 posted at 1333 while my 2100 Gskill sniper posted at 1600. I managed to adjust timing and it bumped to 1866. I got that up.


yea, hate to tell you think but all my 2400 kits default to 1333, also to note again is you need to overvolt your ram a bit ( for both my boards that need it the CVFz and ud7 1.675 works great ) besides that i have heard of a handful of 8350s that could not run 2400, which is not the 8350s fault as they are only rated for 4 dimms at 1600 and 2 @ 1866


----------



## M3TAl

Ya... dunno. Couldn't quite make heads or tails of that...


----------



## Spekkie88

Well I just burned through the VRM's of my watercooled UD3 rev 1.2 with a FX8350 @ 5GHz running LinX...
After I found out it was the board I started searching the net and found this thread... To little to late for me though








I'm going to RMA the board and see what Gigabyte has to say about it... In the mean time I bought a secondhand Crosshair V Formula to keep my system up and running...

I was so close though getting that 5GHz stable...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spekkie88*
> 
> Well I just burned through the VRM's of my watercooled UD3 rev 1.2 with a FX8350 @ 5GHz running LinX...
> After I found out it was the board I started searching the net and found this thread... To little to late for me though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to RMA the board and see what Gigabyte has to say about it... In the mean time I bought a secondhand Crosshair V Formula to keep my system up and running...
> 
> I was so close though getting that 5GHz stable...


Ah sorry to hear that man,

The UD3 is a good board but the FX-8350 is a little bit too much for that board to handle i am afraid.

I had the same board only a rev 1.1 and it was working flawlessly but it could not maintain a high overclock because of the poor VRM heat sinks.

that is why i bought myself an nice UD5 rev 1.1 and it is working flawlessly until now, the VRM, NB doesn't get hot anymore and the max clock speed i got was 5.2 ghz with my FX 8350, but that was only for benching tho.

I don't think gigabyte will cover that but i sure hope for you they will.

BTW, what were your voltages at 5ghz?


----------



## Spekkie88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ah sorry to hear that man,
> 
> The UD3 is a good board but the FX-8350 is a little bit too much for that board to handle i am afraid.
> 
> I had the same board only a rev 1.1 and it was working flawlessly but it could not maintain a high overclock because of the poor VRM heat sinks.
> 
> that is why i bought myself an nice UD5 rev 1.1 and it is working flawlessly until now, the VRM, NB doesn't get hot anymore and the max clock speed i got was 5.2 ghz with my FX 8350, but that was only for benching tho.
> 
> I don't think gigabyte will cover that but i sure hope for you they will.
> 
> BTW, what were your voltages at 5ghz?


HWinfo64 was reporting a Vcore of 1.536V if I'm not mistaken... But I was still in the process of getting it all stable...
Bios settings were Vcore +0.100 or one notch higher I can't recall, since the board died on me all the sudden.
LLC was set ot max...


----------



## reeven

Salut, Merry Christmas to all.
My setup fx8350 at 4.2ghz, turbo off,1.3625 bios voltage, llc auto.
4gb corsair ddr1600 at 1600 15-6-6-7 1.8v/micron chips.
I bought an FXA990 UD3 v4 few weeks ago and i notice some bugs.

1.
First bug, if i install usb 3 VIA driver from gigabyte website i get 13% cpu usage all the time. xhcdrv.sys the culprit.
Solution, use this driver, http://www.via-labs.com/en/downloads/firmware/VIA_XHCI_Driver_V4.30A_AP.zip latest from via, with fix for 13% cpu usage.
For etron driver, use this one, https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/yiqmhis8hgoo1r0/SETUP_0.118.zip?dl=1&token_hash=AAHCZ1nv6Ce8XrEcipVGTR8M9aT3p2oBis-1kocmsvVvYA

2. if EasyTune6 is ON, i get high latency like 1200 or so. Fix, disable easytune.
this is from an review, after i found the bug and google it
Audio users will want to close EasyTune6, as it causes spikes in DPC Latency
which could filter through to the audio.
PS. how to check what latency you have? use this, http://www.thesycon.de/dpclat/dpclat.exe , you need to have maximum of 100ms or so with pc on idle.

3.Sometimes the PC get stuck at LOGO screen. Even if i try to reset bios, plug battery, i still have the problem.
When PC get stuck on the screen is freezing, i cant enter bios, etc.
I think that its an bug in their bios or so. With default optimal settings bug still there.
Anyone could help me with this? An user write on this forum that when bug appear solution is to hold f12 and choose your primary hdd to boot, and its booting ok.... but my pc is frozen at that screen, cant choose f12.

In my country amd3+ boards in stock are quite a few, if i take this board back only one thats in stock its crappy asrock extreme 3, or MSI 990FXA UD65, and this one has huge problems with vmr heat, i put an fx8350 in it and it reboot over and over, when nordbridge get at 70C or so.
UD3 nordbridge resist till 75C or so, and then throttle appear, not restarts.

Number 3 is deal breaker for me, if bug appear when wife is on PC, what she can do?
I tried reseting the bios, shutdown the pc, starting again, bug still there. And i notice that after few hours bug dissapear....and appear again after days.Could anyone with english as their primary language send an report to Gigabyte?
I saw this bug in the first day after i start my pc....


----------



## Mega Man

>.< 1.2? only problems i have heard of are 3.0 and 4


----------



## reeven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> >.< 1.2? only problems i have heard of are 3.0 and 4


are you refering to me? i have 4.0 revision.

For ati drivers, i see that its working drivers from ati website , at least for 990 series.

Untitled.jpg 255k .jpg file


----------



## hurricane28

Marry Christmas gigabyte fellas and a happy 2014!


----------



## Spekkie88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ah sorry to hear that man,
> 
> The UD3 is a good board but the FX-8350 is a little bit too much for that board to handle i am afraid.
> 
> I had the same board only a rev 1.1 and it was working flawlessly but it could not maintain a high overclock because of the poor VRM heat sinks.
> 
> that is why i bought myself an nice UD5 rev 1.1 and it is working flawlessly until now, the VRM, NB doesn't get hot anymore and the max clock speed i got was 5.2 ghz with my FX 8350, but that was only for benching tho.
> 
> I don't think gigabyte will cover that but i sure hope for you they will.
> 
> BTW, what were your voltages at 5ghz?


That's why I watercooled both the vrms and the nb... Still that wasn't enough...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> >.< 1.2? only problems i have heard of are 3.0 and 4


Well as far as I read here was the Rev 4 the best ud3 because of the new vrms. All the others had the same vrms and thus the same problems...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spekkie88*
> 
> That's why I watercooled both the vrms and the nb... Still that wasn't enough...
> Well as far as I read here was the Rev 4 the best ud3 because of the new vrms. All the others had the same vrms and thus the same problems...


I hear ya, and it is a big problem because a lot of people have the same issue like you do.

I do not have those problems to be honest, i did when i had the UD3 rev 1.1 and that is one of the main reasons i changed it for UD5 rev 1.1

My chip runs at 4.8ghz at 1.520 vcore now and the NB 2400 1.200 volts and the HT at 2600 stock volts and i have zero problems and zero heat issues or whatsoever.

I did run mine at 5ghz before and i noticed that it need a lot more volts to keep it stable at that speed and along with it it puts out a lot more heat as well.

Also if you overclock the CPU/NB and put more volts to it, that will gain a lot of heat too and honestly you do not see much gain from that.

The main reason i backed off my OC is that my cooler could simply not cope with the amount of heat that this CPU generates at that speed along with an high CPU/NB.

I now run 4.8 with stock 1866 8-9-9-24 CR1 at 90NS and that gives me the most response and speed that i need.

So if you want to buy another mobo, i can highly recommend the UD5 rev 1.1 or the UD7. Those can handle the vishera's heat and can maintain a high overclock.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> Salut, Merry Christmas to all.
> My setup fx8350 at 4.2ghz, turbo off,1.3625 bios voltage, llc auto.
> 4gb corsair ddr1600 at 1600 15-6-6-7 1.8v/micron chips.
> I bought an FXA990 UD3 v4 few weeks ago and i notice some bugs.
> 
> 1.
> First bug, if i install usb 3 VIA driver from gigabyte website i get 13% cpu usage all the time. xhcdrv.sys the culprit.
> Solution, use this driver, http://www.via-labs.com/en/downloads/firmware/VIA_XHCI_Driver_V4.30A_AP.zip latest from via, with fix for 13% cpu usage.
> For etron driver, use this one, https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/yiqmhis8hgoo1r0/SETUP_0.118.zip?dl=1&token_hash=AAHCZ1nv6Ce8XrEcipVGTR8M9aT3p2oBis-1kocmsvVvYA
> 
> 2. if EasyTune6 is ON, i get high latency like 1200 or so. Fix, disable easytune.
> this is from an review, after i found the bug and google it
> Audio users will want to close EasyTune6, as it causes spikes in DPC Latency
> which could filter through to the audio.
> PS. how to check what latency you have? use this, http://www.thesycon.de/dpclat/dpclat.exe , you need to have maximum of 100ms or so with pc on idle.
> 
> 3.Sometimes the PC get stuck at LOGO screen. Even if i try to reset bios, plug battery, i still have the problem.
> When PC get stuck on the screen is freezing, i cant enter bios, etc.
> I think that its an bug in their bios or so. With default optimal settings bug still there.
> Anyone could help me with this? An user write on this forum that when bug appear solution is to hold f12 and choose your primary hdd to boot, and its booting ok.... but my pc is frozen at that screen, cant choose f12.
> 
> In my country amd3+ boards in stock are quite a few, if i take this board back only one thats in stock its crappy asrock extreme 3, or MSI 990FXA UD65, and this one has huge problems with vmr heat, i put an fx8350 in it and it reboot over and over, when nordbridge get at 70C or so.
> UD3 nordbridge resist till 75C or so, and then throttle appear, not restarts.
> 
> Number 3 is deal breaker for me, if bug appear when wife is on PC, what she can do?
> I tried reseting the bios, shutdown the pc, starting again, bug still there. And i notice that after few hours bug dissapear....and appear again after days.Could anyone with english as their primary language send an report to Gigabyte?
> I saw this bug in the first day after i start my pc....


for #2 just dont install easy tune...
#3 only way i have been able to fix, is to reload default settings, and then boot ( not to windows, just back to bios ) reload normal oc settings, i agree that is a bios issue
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> >.< 1.2? only problems i have heard of are 3.0 and 4
> 
> 
> 
> are you refering to me? i have 4.0 revision.
> 
> For ati drivers, i see that its working drivers from ati website , at least for 990 series.
> 
> Untitled.jpg 255k .jpg file
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spekkie88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Ah sorry to hear that man,
> 
> The UD3 is a good board but the FX-8350 is a little bit too much for that board to handle i am afraid.
> 
> I had the same board only a rev 1.1 and it was working flawlessly but it could not maintain a high overclock because of the poor VRM heat sinks.
> 
> that is why i bought myself an nice UD5 rev 1.1 and it is working flawlessly until now, the VRM, NB doesn't get hot anymore and the max clock speed i got was 5.2 ghz with my FX 8350, but that was only for benching tho.
> 
> I don't think gigabyte will cover that but i sure hope for you they will.
> 
> BTW, what were your voltages at 5ghz?
> 
> 
> 
> That's why I watercooled both the vrms and the nb... Still that wasn't enough...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> >.< 1.2? only problems i have heard of are 3.0 and 4
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well as far as I read here was the Rev 4 the best ud3 because of the new vrms. All the others had the same vrms and thus the same problems...
Click to expand...

still sorry to hear that, but alas no , i was confused because you said 1.2

merry christmas every one !


----------



## a11an

Not going to read 800 pages but is there is way to fix the UD5 rev1 vdroop now? I tried some overclocking yesterday for fun and it was not fun at all. 1,485 dropped to 1,38









I can buy a 8350 but it seems like a waste with this board.


----------



## Mega Man

same way that you always have been able to fix it, more volts.....


----------



## Spekkie88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *a11an*
> 
> Not going to read 800 pages but is there is way to fix the UD5 rev1 vdroop now? I tried some overclocking yesterday for fun and it was not fun at all. 1,485 dropped to 1,38
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can buy a 8350 but it seems like a waste with this board.


Nop both the UD3 and UD5 rev 1.0 boards (not sure about ud7) do NOT support LLC (Load Line Calibration) which is the only solution to the Vdrop. The only thing you can do on a rev 1.0 board is to up the voltage in the bios so the Vcore stays high enough during load...


----------



## Smitty258

First of all I want to say I hope everyone here had a great holiday. I've been reading up on here doing research for a new build that my family members were chipping in for me as a Christmas gift, and I got all my parts today for Christmas.

I ended up choosing the UD3 board since it had the features I was looking for in the budget I was working within. I read about all the problems with the Rev. 3 boards, however I had seen that Rev. 4 had been out for a while and felt fairly confident I would get a Rev. 4 board, so I told my family member to order it from SuperBiiz as they had the best price.

Of course I unwrap the present this morning to find out I got a Rev. 3 board!









From all the bad things said on here about the Rev. 3 boards, especially with 8 Core processors, and I can't seem to shake the feeling that I'm doomed. Like I said, it was a gift so it would be kinda hard for me to do a return or exchange. I'm planning on just going forward with my build and hoping for the best.

I guess my question is, do ALL these boards have problems? I'm not really planning on doing any overclocking to start, however I wouldn't mind doing some modest overclocks in the future to boost the performance within the cooling limits of the Hyper 212 Evo I have.

Here's the pertinent parts I have already:

AMD FX-8320
Gigabyte GA-990 FXA-UD3 Rev. 3
Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
Rosewill Blackhawk Case with 5 case fans.

Thanks in advance for any help or advice you can give.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smitty258*
> 
> First of all I want to say I hope everyone here had a great holiday. I've been reading up on here doing research for a new build that my family members were chipping in for me as a Christmas gift, and I got all my parts today for Christmas.
> 
> I ended up choosing the UD3 board since it had the features I was looking for in the budget I was working within. I read about all the problems with the Rev. 3 boards, however I had seen that Rev. 4 had been out for a while and felt fairly confident I would get a Rev. 4 board, so I told my family member to order it from SuperBiiz as they had the best price.
> 
> Of course I unwrap the present this morning to find out I got a Rev. 3 board!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From all the bad things said on here about the Rev. 3 boards, especially with 8 Core processors, and I can't seem to shake the feeling that I'm doomed. Like I said, it was a gift so it would be kinda hard for me to do a return or exchange. I'm planning on just going forward with my build and hoping for the best.
> 
> I guess my question is, do ALL these boards have problems? I'm not really planning on doing any overclocking to start, however I wouldn't mind doing some modest overclocks in the future to boost the performance within the cooling limits of the Hyper 212 Evo I have.
> 
> Here's the pertinent parts I have already:
> 
> AMD FX-8320
> Gigabyte GA-990 FXA-UD3 Rev. 3
> Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo
> Rosewill Blackhawk Case with 5 case fans.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any help or advice you can give.


worst case new thermal pads and screw down the mount tighter for the vrms, best case waterblock them and dont shoot for 5ghz, with your cooling solution you should do ok, i dont know if it has been tried but you may also try some mx4 on the vrms with oem thermal pad .... it may help


----------



## Smitty258

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> worst case new thermal pads and screw down the mount tighter for the vrms, best case waterblock them and dont shoot for 5ghz, with your cooling solution you should do ok, i dont know if it has been tried but you may also try some mx4 on the vrms with oem thermal pad .... it may help


Thanks for the advice! There are a few things I need a little clarification on. The last PC i built was an Athlon 650! Back in the days before every componant ran so hot and needed a heatsink and fan on it!









Thermal pad? Is this between the VRMs and the VRM heatsink? Fulfilling the role of thermal paste? So if I run into problems I should remove the heatsink and replace the thermal pads? Then rip out the plastic push pins holding it to the motherboard and replace them with screws so I can tighten it down to the VRMs better?

I did check and the VRM heatsink seems to be on there pretty good. I couldn't move it at all with light pressure.

I should be putting this build together Saturday, and like I said I'm planning on running it stock for a while. If everything runs well at stock then I'll go for 4Ghz+. Whatever I can get stable with acceptable temperatures with the 212 EVO.

Thanks again!


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i dont know if it has been tried but you may also try some mx4 on the vrms with oem thermal pad .... it may help


That is exactly how I did mine. The VRM's whatever they are made of are really porous so I put a thin layer of MX-4 on top of them, to fill all the voids, then my Thermal Pad and I bolted a Thermalright HR-09U type 2 on top of that. I even put a haze of MX-4 on the Bottom of the Thermalright HR-09U between it and the Thermal Pad to fill any microscopic voids in the Thermalright HR-09U.
The Northbridge chipset heatsink should be taken off and recoated with some MX-4 or something, whatever they used was dry and hard when mine was bolted down.
I have pretty cool temps now compared to before.


----------



## hurricane28

I did the same thing to my NB with the same TIM.

I really like MX-4, it has proven to me time and time again that it will lower the temps by a nice amount.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just thought I would give an update, using my UD3 rev 4.0, I have managed to take my 8350 to 5.21Ghz.

I think with a bit of a cooler environment I will be able to reach 5.3-5.4Ghz.

It is a combination of FSB and multi OC.

http://valid.canardpc.com/xjhl9t

http://valid.canardpc.com/xjhl9t


----------



## reeven

Untitled.jpg 255k .jpg file

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> are you refering to me? i have 4.0 revision.


And i see that driver from ati is working on 990 chipset, but not on 890.
http://support.amd.com/en-us/download


----------



## reeven

Ginger, what was llc and voltage set in bios. And what was the minimum voltage in prime95 load ?
My fx does 5.2 at 1.50v, cpuz screen from previous owner.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smitty258*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> worst case new thermal pads and screw down the mount tighter for the vrms, best case waterblock them and dont shoot for 5ghz, with your cooling solution you should do ok, i dont know if it has been tried but you may also try some mx4 on the vrms with oem thermal pad .... it may help
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice! There are a few things I need a little clarification on. The last PC i built was an Athlon 650! Back in the days before every componant ran so hot and needed a heatsink and fan on it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thermal pad? Is this between the VRMs and the VRM heatsink? Fulfilling the role of thermal paste? So if I run into problems I should remove the heatsink and replace the thermal pads? Then rip out the plastic push pins holding it to the motherboard and replace them with screws so I can tighten it down to the VRMs better?
> 
> I did check and the VRM heatsink seems to be on there pretty good. I couldn't move it at all with light pressure.
> 
> I should be putting this build together Saturday, and like I said I'm planning on running it stock for a while. If everything runs well at stock then I'll go for 4Ghz+. Whatever I can get stable with acceptable temperatures with the 212 EVO.
> 
> Thanks again!
Click to expand...

np, but not my idea someone else here did it, and i did not believe gigabyte would do something so stupid, well i was 100% wrong as has been proven time and time again.
yes you are right about the thermal pad, also to note they keep the heatsink electrically isolated from the vrms so nothing goes zap-pop
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just thought I would give an update, using my UD3 rev 4.0, I have managed to take my 8350 to 5.21Ghz.
> 
> I think with a bit of a cooler environment I will be able to reach 5.3-5.4Ghz.
> 
> It is a combination of FSB and multi OC.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/xjhl9t
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/xjhl9t


waiting for the boom !


----------



## rawsteel

Having some issues getting my 990FXA-UD5 working in USB 3, everything was working fine last time i hooked up my Samsung Story station USB3.0 a few months ago but now it just won't start up in USB 3 mode, tried reinstalling the Etron 1.0.0.0115 drivers and updated my AMD chipset drivers to 13.12 but still no luck.. it just starts up in USB2 mode when connected to any of the blue USB 3 ports.

Device manager screenshot below:
http://postimg.org/image/yw3yeadix/full/


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> Ginger, what was llc and voltage set in bios. And what was the minimum voltage in prime95 load ?
> My fx does 5.2 at 1.50v, cpuz screen from previous owner.


Llc set at medium BIOS Vcore set at 1.49v.

I am not doing it for stability, just for validation. If it breaks I may just need to get a new one.

All I hope is that before anything pops, is that I get a valid validation saved :-D


----------



## msw1

Hi. I don't know if this has been asked before, but where is the CPU-NB voltage? Is it NB core voltage? I have been entirely unsuccessful in raising CPU-NB frequency above 2600mhz.

I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 and a FX-8320.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msw1*
> 
> Hi. I don't know if this has been asked before, but where is the CPU-NB voltage? Is it NB core voltage? I have been entirely unsuccessful in raising CPU-NB frequency above 2600mhz.
> I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 and a FX-8320.


yes but most chips cap @ 2600-2700


----------



## msw1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes but most chips cap @ 2600-2700


Damn. Thanks anyway. Hopefully my 2133mhz memory isn't having a problem with that.


----------



## Mega Man

yea it will np this is not phenom, you just need it @ or higher then current ram speed, i try for ~ 300 more then ram.. seems to work best for me


----------



## Recursion

Hello all, I wrote a new tool to overclock and undervolt the AMD FX Bulldozer. It's completely free but I like a donation when you use it for commercial purpose. Megacpu is a systray tool for the Turion power control. It is a command-line tool and software overclocker for all AMD Athlon, AMD Phenom, AMD Turion, AMD FX Bulldozer chips.


----------



## nidzakv

Can someone help me, i cant set rear USB 3.0 to work.. I've installed usb3.0 drivers from the site, but in device manager "Universal serial bus (USB) Cotroller" has a yellow triangle, souch as warning issue.. When try to update it's drivers automaticly this is what i get ..



Thank in advance..

They worked 2 weeks ago...


----------



## rawsteel

Thinking about replacing my UD5 rev 1.0 with a UD3 Rev 4... good idea? will only be using a AMD FX-6300 with it or Maby avoid Gigabyte Boards altogether


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> Can someone help me, i cant set rear USB 3.0 to work.. I've installed usb3.0 drivers from the site, but in device manager "Universal serial bus (USB) Cotroller" has a yellow triangle, souch as warning issue.. When try to update it's drivers automaticly this is what i get ..
> 
> 
> 
> Thank in advance..
> 
> They worked 2 weeks ago...


is it disabled in bios ?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> Can someone help me, i cant set rear USB 3.0 to work.. I've installed usb3.0 drivers from the site, but in device manager "Universal serial bus (USB) Cotroller" has a yellow triangle, souch as warning issue.. When try to update it's drivers automaticly this is what i get ..
> 
> 
> 
> Thank in advance..
> 
> They worked 2 weeks ago...


What have you done or changed in the last couple of weeks? Have you tried a Windows update?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rawsteel*
> 
> Thinking about replacing my UD5 rev 1.0 with a UD3 Rev 4... good idea? will only be using a AMD FX-6300 with it or Maby avoid Gigabyte Boards altogether


Why the thought of changing? Unless you are going for a stella OC, Using DICE Ln2 etc. No real point in changing boards or brands IMO


----------



## rawsteel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> What have you done or changed in the last couple of weeks? Have you tried a Windows update?
> Why the thought of changing? Unless you are going for a stella OC, Using DICE Ln2 etc. No real point in changing boards or brands IMO


Well my ud5 has no LLC and always hot NB, i am thinking the ud3 rev4 is just an overall better board


----------



## ginger_nuts

I could stand corrected, but the rev 1.1 UD5 would probably be on par with the rev 4 UD3.

Maybe someone who knows the in's and out's of both boards could join in.


----------



## Mega Man

heres my 2 cents... do your research and decide your needs, as we can not tell you them, if i could i would tell you to go buy the ud7 and 4 r9 290s, why not?? there are plenty of infos in this thread and others,

tbh lack of llc is not a game breaker, you need to determine vdroop and plan accordingly with that much over volts, most people who have say it runs cooler anyway


----------



## nidzakv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> is it disabled in bios ?


Its enabled..

Bios is default now... Still not working ..


----------



## Mega Man

your controller may be bad on board

only other thing i can think of is reflash bios


----------



## nidzakv

I'll try that... Ty.


----------



## msw1

I have another question. I am able to change the HT link frequency via FSB (all the way up to 3200mhz) but if I change it via multiplier (up to 2800mhz) my computer doesn't post. Changing ht-link voltage does nothing. Why? Sorry if that's a noob question.

GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0.


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msw1*
> 
> I have another question. I am able to change the HT link frequency via FSB (all the way up to 3200mhz) but if I change it via multiplier (up to 2800mhz) my computer doesn't post. Changing ht-link voltage does nothing. Why? Sorry if that's a noob question.
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0.


Some multipliers both for htlink and northbridge tend to have stability issues. Giga boards seem to have more trouble with this. I cant even get a fsb oc stable on mine. Even if it passes 20 ibt and 12 hours of prime it still randomly freezes and is not smooth in comparison to low fsb.

Anyways my point is alot of giga boards have trouble with certain multi on nb and htlink but it varies from board to board what issues u may have.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmfree88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *msw1*
> 
> I have another question. I am able to change the HT link frequency via FSB (all the way up to 3200mhz) but if I change it via multiplier (up to 2800mhz) my computer doesn't post. Changing ht-link voltage does nothing. Why? Sorry if that's a noob question.
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0.
> 
> 
> 
> Some multipliers both for htlink and northbridge tend to have stability issues. Giga boards seem to have more trouble with this. I cant even get a fsb oc stable on mine. Even if it passes 20 ibt and 12 hours of prime it still randomly freezes and is not smooth in comparison to low fsb.
> 
> Anyways my point is alot of giga boards have trouble with certain multi on nb and htlink but it varies from board to board what issues u may have.
Click to expand...

i am running 300fsb, how is that low?


----------



## dmfree88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am running 300fsb, how is that low?


I said "on mine" and said "it varies from board to board what issues you may have."

I personally could'nt get over 300 to boot at all no matter what it was set between 300-350 and multis changed up. Tried for over a week everyday to do different fsb overclocks and for some reason even at like 212 it seemed great and worked fine during stability testing. But would have random other issues like flash freezing occasionally and my VPN had some flashing screens (things others with similar issues may have not even noticed). As soon as I went back to 208 or less i never had any issues. I was finally able to get northbridge to overclock further on multi aswell as get ram to 1866 on multi with no issues. Same timings during low fsb (212, 218, 223 etc) stock northbridge clock (less then ive taken both with multi) and it was always having issues. I have given up as I dont need FSB overclock but it was sure a battle to even try







and got to play around which is always fun (for the first few days anyway haha).

Anyways I am not by any means saying this is common issue I am just saying the multiplier issue seems to be common with northbridge and sometimes htlink aswell. Which obviously can vary from board to board quite a bit if you can do 300+ with ease. Arent you using rev 1.1 aswell? Basically same board as I and completely different results. Who knows maybe something is still not working right for me but I have tried everything possible I can think of.

Either way though I wasnt saying its not possible but It might be with my board







and others may experience similar issues regardless my flaw is not likely 1/million unless something else is wrong that I havent found.


----------



## BuZADAM

HI

I say before. and ı say again

amd fx cpu does not support 4 module memory @ 1866mhz , 4 module only works @ 1600mhz ı have ud7 rev 1.0 and 4 module corsair dominator gt 2000mhz ram @1600mhz 9-10-9-27

Only one DIMM per channel is supported for DDR3-1866MHz and higher speed as using an AM3+ CPU.

so that dont work your ram speed. because fx cpu does not suppport.


----------



## Mega Man

correction. it does not officially support it, but my cpu also does not officially support 4.8ghz, 2700 cpu/nb, 3900ht and 2400 ram ... but guess what ... that is what i run


----------



## BuZADAM

@mega man

you are talking about overclock but ı talk about standart and offical uses. you may right and possible when do overclock an overclock enviroment. but standart uses not possiable.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> correction. it does not officially support it, but my cpu also does not officially support 4.8ghz, 2700 cpu/nb, 3900ht and 2400 ram ... but guess what ... that is what i run


Those scores are pretty low compare to mine dude,


----------



## DarkRadeon7000

I just got myself a Gigabyte 990XA-UD3 and when I enter the UEFI-Advanced Voltage Settings,all voltages are on auto and I cannot change them.Some help please?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> correction. it does not officially support it, but my cpu also does not officially support 4.8ghz, 2700 cpu/nb, 3900ht and 2400 ram ... but guess what ... that is what i run
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Those scores are pretty low compare to mine dude,
Click to expand...

actually all tests above were done at varying volts, and no, they are not low, they are done with 8gb sticks ( high density memory ) which is harder on IMC then your 4gb sticks. so they are pretty darn good considering
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkRadeon7000*
> 
> I just got myself a Gigabyte 990XA-UD3 and when I enter the UEFI-Advanced Voltage Settings,all voltages are on auto and I cannot change them.Some help please?


you have to use "+" or "-"


----------



## LicSqualo

these my scores... interesting to compare...
with rev.1 board and vCore @+0275 (without llc, sigh!)


----------



## LicSqualo

...and thanks guys for all the tips regarding my board!


----------



## DarkRadeon7000

Yup that did it.Thanks


----------



## rascas

Can I play too


----------



## rascas

Also playing with my o/c this morning and managed this



Will try and push further, I think I can get 5.6


----------



## DarkRadeon7000

One more thing,how do I change the UEFI Post time.it takes 5 seconds in my total boot time,want to change it to 3 or less.Can it be done?


----------



## Mega Man

it may be, disable all unneeded controllers


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkRadeon7000*
> 
> One more thing,how do I change the UEFI Post time.it takes 5 seconds in my total boot time,want to change it to 3 or less.Can it be done?


Why not just set your system to go into sleep mode? Sucker comes out of that quickly, and ready to go. I just started using it myself, since my first experience with it was back in the day, when it sucked (windows me I think). I now feel foolish as hell for not giving it a 2nd try sooner (old habits and all).

You might not want to go disabling random things just to shave a second or two off your post. I know my windows 7 pc comes out of sleep in something like 6 seconds. I think windows 8 is even better about it.

*Set to not check for boot drives other than your main ssd/hdd
*Disable logo

That should get you up and running faster.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DarkRadeon7000*
> 
> One more thing,how do I change the UEFI Post time.it takes 5 seconds in my total boot time,want to change it to 3 or less.Can it be done?
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just set your system to go into sleep mode? Sucker comes out of that quickly, and ready to go. I just started using it myself, since my first experience with it was back in the day, when it sucked (windows me I think). I now feel foolish as hell for not giving it a 2nd try sooner (old habits and all).
> 
> You might not want to go disabling random things just to shave a second or two off your post. I know my windows 7 pc comes out of sleep in something like 6 seconds. I think windows 8 is even better about it.
> 
> *Set to not check for boot drives other than your main ssd/hdd
> *Disable logo
> 
> That should get you up and running faster.
Click to expand...

just to make sure you know sleep is bad for ssds ? it does not allow them to trim properly


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just to make sure you know sleep is bad for ssds ? it does not allow them to trim properly


Thanks didn't know. I knew that it saved to ram, but, oh well. It seems like most conviences are bad for ssd. To be honest, I doubt I'll still want to use this 120gb SSD as a os drive by the time it would become an issue. I've gotten hooked to sleep, so nice not having to set up my windows every day.

*Are you sure you're not thinking of Hibernate?


----------



## Mega Man

yes, they use the down time to "clean" the nand unless something has changed that i dont know ( i am no expert, but i was always told not to let my pc sleep just let it idle

i just leave mine on 24/7 and dont restart except for ocing or updating


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes, they use the down time to "clean" the nand unless something has changed that i dont know ( i am no expert, but i was always told not to let my pc sleep just let it idle
> 
> i just leave mine on 24/7 and dont restart except for ocing or updating


I mainly let it sleep at night. I'll do more research into it.

I also used to let idle, but, sleep really is great now that I've started using it. I'm hooked.

All sleep does is saves your system state to the ram, and then powers everything off, expect the ram. My system is in windows, and running in no more than 6 seconds (I've counted). The only issue I could see with this, would be if the power goes out, though, I'm not sure it's a deal than, since I don't think the system is reliant on the information stored in the ram, and would just post normally.

Hibernate saves the system state to your HDD, as much as your available ram. This would be very bad for a SSD. It also starts much slower, but, I'm guessing is not susceptible to power outages, since it doesn't need power to hold the info.

One option, is to not set your computer to sleep on its own, and instead just set it in sleep mode when you go to sleep. This way, it can do its trim thing during the day, and than sleep at night, but still have your system ready to go right away.

***Techs usually tell people to let their computer sleep. Modern OS are designed with sleep in mind. You also have to realize, there is a lot of snake oil solutions floating around. I suggest trying both ways yourself.

I really suggest looking into sleep. Being able to press my power button at any time, and have my computer keep the state it's in is a game changer.


----------



## Mega Man

meh
ill stick to what i do, although oses are designed to, hardware may not be, also you take 6 sec, i take 0 i just move my mouse !


----------



## Chargeit

It can be abusive towards things such as fans and hdd to leave running 24/7. Even before, I didn't just leave my system on at night.

Still everyone does it their own way. Up until a few weeks ago, I'd turn my system off every night before going to sleep. Speaking of which, it's late as hell here (more like early).

Peace, going to crash out.


----------



## Mega Man

o absolutely ! to each his own, i never have had an hd fail, every 4-5 years, i just buy a new one and retire the old one to the trash


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> o absolutely ! to each his own, i never have had an hd fail, every 4-5 years, i just buy a new one and retire the old one to the trash


consider yourself lucky. I have had quite a few fail. My first HD is a 10MB so I have seen a lot fail. I'd also take MFM drives and reform them with RLL controller for 33% higher capacity and transfer rate - as well as failure rate. Also there is a reason microscience and Micropolis no longer make HDs.

Just recently I was upgrading my PS and tring to slide something under a HD without removing the drive and ended up breaking off some little inductor thing from the PCB. I was going to toss it as its a 500mb drive full of installed games but I decided to try to fix it.

the thing I broke off was a little bead of some sort wrapped with wire. I unwound the wire and rewind the wire leaving enough to resolder to the PCB. It worked again, amazing.

Also I just had a SSD that appeared to become totally unstable, but it was a bug in the firmware that caused the drive to start rebooting every 2 hours after the first 5000 hours of operation.

I also had some seagate drives with flat barrings. The drives would fail to start from cold boot, but you could tap them with a screwdriver and they'd actually spin up and work until they happen to get stuck again


----------



## Mega Man

ironically it is about time for new hdds thanks for reminding me !


----------



## Mega Man

delete


----------



## GroovyMotion

Greetings, new member here...was refered by someone over at overclockers.com
I have a brand new GA-990FXA-UD5 rev.3 with the latest BIOS and an FX-6300
I tried several OC and I was told by good fellows that my vcore was not stable so I was pointed here and I got information overload lol
Even at bone stock, out-of-the-box my vcore ranges from 1.212v to 1.512v with a min. of 0.996v when I start HWMonitor. Is this normal?

I was able to be stable with a FSB of 230mhz with a vcore of +0.150with a high LLC setting and all the green stuff disabled.
Here are my graphs




Thanks in advance!


----------



## Chargeit

What windows power profile are you using?

If you want your cpu to run at 100%, than set it for high. I wouldn't run like that 24/7, but, can be useful at times.

The voltage will drop to cool down, or when the cpu isn't running at 100%.

I personally don't see a issue with your voltage range, as long as it's not doing that while stress testing.

You might have one issue however, check the LLC. It seems like 1.512V spikes is a lot for such a mild oc.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> What windows power profile are you using?
> If you want your cpu to run at 100%, than set it for high. I wouldn't run like that 24/7, but, can be useful at times.
> The voltage will drop to cool down, or when the cpu isn't running at 100%.
> I personally don't see a issue with your voltage range, as long as it's not doing that while stress testing.
> You might have one issue however, check the LLC. It seems like 1.512V spikes is a lot for such a mild oc.


I set it at high performance.
Regarding the LLC I have experimented and high/ultra setting seems to be the most stable.
The LLC voltage is the VIN5?
Well, while running prime the vcore varies from 1.308-1.404 bu5t it stays most of the time close to 1.404


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> I set it at high performance.
> Regarding the LLC I have experimented and high/ultra setting seems to be the most stable.
> The LLC voltage is the VIN5?
> Well, while running prime the vcore varies from 1.308-1.404 bu5t it stays most of the time close to 1.404


The LLC just tries to make sure you've got enough voltage to run at current clock rate. Problem being, it can over volt your system. Really, you don't want to rely on LLC to get a stable oc.

I don't think so. I'm not sure what VIN5 is, I don't have that on my monitor.

Yea, jumping from 1.308 to 1.404 sounds like a lot of jumping around on voltage to me. I think mine goes up and down 0.05V at the most. It could be less however. The reason I think it's doing that, is because you're not giving your CPU enough base voltage, and instead relying on LLC.

I'm going to be honest with you, I'm used to overclocking this FX 8320. I'm really not sure off hand how the FX6300's oc, or what voltage you should be looking at. You might want to ask around some on the FX6300 owners club, since I don't' want to give too much advice on something that I haven't done myself.

I do know however, that it's better to rely on setting your voltage high enough to run the cpu, than relying on LLC to keep it running. I think that you should add more base voltage, and see if it still does such drastic jumps. See what it does if you add another 0.025v (0.050 after that) to it. I know your VRM can handle it, unless very poorly vented.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> The LLC just tries to make sure you've got enough voltage to run at current clock rate. Problem being, it can over volt your system. Really, you don't want to rely on LLC to get a stable oc.
> 
> I don't think so. I'm not sure what VIN5 is, I don't have that on my monitor.
> 
> Yea, jumping from 1.308 to 1.404 sounds like a lot of jumping around on voltage to me. I think mine goes up and down 0.05V at the most. It could be less however. The reason I think it's doing that, is because you're not giving your CPU enough base voltage, and instead relying on LLC.
> 
> I'm going to be honest with you, I'm used to overclocking this FX 8320. I'm really not sure off hand how the FX6300's oc, or what voltage you should be looking at. You might want to ask around some on the FX6300 owners club, since I don't' want to give too much advice on something that I haven't done myself.
> 
> I do know however, that it's better to rely on setting your voltage high enough to run the cpu, than relying on LLC to keep it running. I think that you should add more base voltage, and see if it still does such drastic jumps. See what it does if you add another 0.025v (0.050 after that) to it. I know your VRM can handle it, unless very poorly vented.


Thanks! So you think I should keep the LLC at default?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Thanks! So you think I should keep the LLC at default?


I'd try it like that, and see how it works out. The main thing when using it at higher settings is, make sure that it isn't maxing at crazy voltage.

I mean, if you have LLC set to extreme, and have 1.5V going to your CPU. Who's to say that LLC doesn't decide to spike you voltage to 1.6 or something like that.

The main thing is, be careful with it. If you set your voltage way too low for your OC, the LLC may just send a dangerous spike at your CPU, attempting to keep it running.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'd try it like that, and see how it works out. The main thing when using it at higher settings is, make sure that it isn't maxing at crazy voltage.
> 
> I mean, if you have LLC set to extreme, and have 1.5V going to your CPU. Who's to say that LLC doesn't decide to spike you voltage to 1.6 or something like that.
> 
> The main thing is, be careful with it. If you set your voltage way too low for your OC, the LLC may just send a dangerous spike at your CPU, attempting to keep it running.


ok thanks!
So far I managed to run at 4133mhz with [email protected] 19.5 and FSB @212 but my HT is low at 2331mhz, NB freq @1900 and DRAM @706
But the thing is with our board...you got the UD5 as well, the HT can be set by 200mhz increments and the ram multiplier is also limiting.
I should raise the multiplier above 19.5 in order to get more RAM and HT speeds?


----------



## GroovyMotion

Here are my new results, I bumped the vcore, FSB and multi and it's stable


----------



## CravinR1

Where is the setting to boot without KB and mouse attached with a 990fxa-ud3


----------



## GroovyMotion

Well, I was able to get my FX-6300 stable @4.5Ghz, temps are quite low but I am wondering if it's worth to install cooling on the North Bridge on the FXA-UD5? Does cooling it helps the voltage or not at all?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Well, I was able to get my FX-6300 stable @4.5Ghz, temps are quite low but I am wondering if it's worth to install cooling on the North Bridge on the FXA-UD5? Does cooling it helps the voltage or not at all?


Extra cooling never hurts, as long as it doesn't mess up the air flow of the case.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Extra cooling never hurts, as long as it doesn't mess up the air flow of the case.


Well, I have decent cooling, I have a Corsair Carbide 330R but the front stock fan might not be enough...is there a sensor for the NB temp?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Well, I have decent cooling, I have a Corsair Carbide 330R but the front stock fan might not be enough...is there a sensor for the NB temp?


Isn't TMPIN1 NB? I really don't remember.

I haven't taken extra steps to cool my NB, but, I do have pretty good airflow atm.

Does your system support adding a extra 120mm fan to the HDD area? I have one inside of my case, right past the hdd bay, to help distribute air. If you don't have the screw holes for it, ziptie is your friend.

*I need to update my systems picture... Lol, most of the hardware and set up seen in it is no more.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Isn't TMPIN1 NB? I really don't remember.
> 
> I haven't taken extra steps to cool my NB, but, I do have pretty good airflow atm.
> 
> Does your system support adding a extra 120mm fan to the HDD area? I have one inside of my case, right past the hdd bay, to help distribute air. If you don't have the screw holes for it, ziptie is your friend.


yes I can add another 120mm at the bottom where the HD's are. What I could do is move the stock corsair at the bottom and get something like this: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553001

I found the TMPIN-2 is the NB on our boards and it's quite cool so I don't need to worry about this.








I also found an interesting thread about NB speed bump, will try that and monitor the temp.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> yes I can add another 120mm at the bottom where the HD's are. What I could do is move the stock corsair at the bottom and get something like this: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553001
> 
> I found the TMPIN-2 is the NB on our boards and it's quite cool so I don't need to worry about this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also found an interesting thread about NB speed bump, will try that and monitor the temp.


I love my Cougar fans.

Oh, and that orange looks great inside of a all black case. It sucks I have some cougar fans that are black, because it had the option, than I got a 140mm that didn't have the black option. Now, I wish I had stuck with the orange, since it just looks freaking sweet.

They are quiet also, assuming you have a fan controller. Still, they aren't bad wide open.

*I don't have a bottom fan any longer, it sucks in too much dust. What I mean is having a fan hooked to the HDD bay, on the inside of the case.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I love my Cougar fans.
> 
> Oh, and that orange looks great inside of a all black case. It sucks I have some cougar fans that are black, because it had the option, than I got a 140mm that didn't have the black option. Now, I wish I had stuck with the orange, since it just looks freaking sweet.
> 
> They are quiet also, assuming you have a fan controller. Still, they aren't bad wide open.
> 
> *I don't have a bottom fan any longer, it sucks in too much dust. What I mean is having a fan hooked to the HDD bay, on the inside of the case.


Cool! Well, I have dust filters everywhere inside this case it's awesome! And it's all sound-proof and what's weird is that the top cover has only a small space for the air to get in and opening the top barely makes any difference in temp!

I don't know if my front fan has a controller, it's a 3-pin so it doesn't have any I guess?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Cool! Well, I have dust filters everywhere inside this case it's awesome! And it's all sound-proof and what's weird is that the top cover has only a small space for the air to get in and opening the top barely makes any difference in temp!
> 
> I don't know if my front fan has a controller, it's a 3-pin so it doesn't have any I guess?


A great fan controller. No issues with cougar fans. Oh, and it looks cool as hell.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992005

I'm fully filtered. The issue is, a bottom fan acts like a vacuum cleaner, sucking up any dust off the table / floor. Serious, you'd be amazed the amount of dust a bottom fan will pull in even filtered. I don't use one because of it.

Oh, and this 4 pack of cougar fans, some with great converters, which will allow you to use up to 10 fans on that controller I mentioned.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553009

Though, I suggest you get the set with orange fans.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553008

Not only 4 great fans, but, the converters make it worth the price and than some "imo".

**you don't need PWM fans for the fan controller. Just normal fans.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> A great fan controller. No issues with cougar fans. Oh, and it looks cool as hell.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811992005
> 
> I'm fully filtered. The issue is, a bottom fan acts like a vacuum cleaner, sucking up any dust off the table / floor. Serious, you'd be amazed the amount of dust a bottom fan will pull in even filtered. I don't use one because of it.


Oh yes your right! And I checked, my front fan is a 140mm so I'd have to remove it and put a 120mm so it's not worth it. My temps are quite low anyways, just need to figure out the LLC settings, this is not easy!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Oh yes your right! And I checked, my front fan is a 140mm so I'd have to remove it and put a 120mm so it's not worth it. My temps are quite low anyways, just need to figure out the LLC settings, this is not easy!


I mean put one like this.



Yea, the LLC is a pain. I'd play around with auto / normal. Be careful with setting it too high.

After talking to you last night, I messed with it. I set it from Regular to high, keeping my current oc. When I logged into windows, my voltage hit 1.6v. Needless to say, I quickly logged and changed it back.

I mean, it should be cool to experiment with various settings, as long as you keep a good eye on your voltage while doing it.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I mean put one like this.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, the LLC is a pain. I'd play around with auto / normal. Be careful with setting it too high.
> 
> After talking to you last night, I messed with it. I set it from Regular to high, keeping my current oc. When I logged into windows, my voltage hit 1.6v. Needless to say, I quickly logged and changed it back.
> 
> I mean, it should be cool to experiment with various settings, as long as you keep a good eye on your voltage while doing it.


Ah...this is very clever for the fan positionning, will try it thanks!!








Yeah I tried from auto all the way to extreme LLC and so far on auto @4.5Ghz for 3 hours stress test my FX-6300 never went above 1.464v (stock is 1.5v). Yikes 1.6v you unplug the PSU ASAP lol. I wish there was an app that would shutdown the PC once it reaches a certain voltage like it can for the temp.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, it's a good spot to get fresh air to the inside of your system. I'm not sure you want a killer fan there however, just something to distribute airflow from that front fan.

Yea, I found that auto seems to work well enough. I have heard people say it could spike you, which would make sense, but, it never happened to me. I'm pretty sure I'm set to regular atm however. From what I've seen, auto is safe.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Yeah I've seen erratic behaviours with different LLC settings, I leave it at auto for now.
Now I will experiment with the NB/HT OC, they seem to really benefit our chips!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah I've seen erratic behaviours with different LLC settings, I leave it at auto for now.
> Now I will experiment with the NB/HT OC, they seem to really benefit our chips!


I might have to check out ocing more than just multiplier. I have heard that you end up getting a better, more stable oc out of it.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I might have to check out ocing more than just multiplier. I have heard that you end up getting a better, more stable oc out of it.


Yeah I combine both FSB and multi, this is how I got it stable @4.65...most stable I was at the beginning was 4.2


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah I combine both FSB and multi, this is how I got it stable @4.65...most stable I was at the beginning was 4.2


I'll have to give it a go. the highest I can run this 8320 is 4.5. I could get to 4.6, but, my temps would be too high without extreme measures (max cpu fans). Even at 4.5, if I don't watch it, my temps would get into the 60s, but, it's doable. What I ended up doing, is just setting to 4.4, since I always knock down a notch or two, and I can run 4.4 with my fans set to quiet (H100i).

I'm not going to mess with it yet, since I really don't feel like dedicating the weekend to stress testing.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'll have to give it a go. the highest I can run this 8320 is 4.5. I could get to 4.6, but, my temps would be too high without extreme measures (max cpu fans). Even at 4.5, if I don't watch it, my temps would get into the 60s, but, it's doable. What I ended up doing, is just setting to 4.4, since I always knock down a notch or two, and I can run 4.4 with my fans set to quiet (H100i).
> 
> I'm not going to mess with it yet, since I really don't feel like dedicating the weekend to stress testing.


Lol I know what you mean, I had a few weeks off which is why I was able to build this new rig, reinstall everything and tweak and then OC








I don't worry about temps as it's -30C here so I open the window a bit and it's extremlely cool


----------



## M3TAl

Should have mosfet and northbridge water blocks here on Wednesday







. Will be able to keep fans at super low 700-800 RPM without having to worry about blowing anything up on the board. Super quiet and will look super sexayyyy!

Still need to update rig details with all the water cooling stuff, keep forgetting.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Should have mosfet and northbridge water blocks here on Wednesday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will be able to keep fans at super low 700-800 RPM without having to worry about blowing anything up on the board. Super quiet and will look super sexayyyy!
> 
> Still need to update rig details with all the water cooling stuff, keep forgetting.


Nice! and nice comparison between the vortex, Swiftech and Antec!


----------



## M3TAl

Thanks. Seen someone else test Vortex and Helix on the H220 radiator and the Helix seemed to do better on it. Guess it depends on the particular radiator FPI, thickness, and/or case setup.

When you have 10 Vortexes all at 1600 RPM... it's anything but quiet







. I guess to some it may not be bad but I'm trying to get things as quiet as possible, not willing to spend $$$ on crazy quiet fans though, trying to do what I can with what I've got.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Thanks. Seen someone else test Vortex and Helix on the H220 radiator and the Helix seemed to do better on it. Guess it depends on the particular radiator FPI, thickness, and/or case setup.
> 
> When you have 10 Vortexes all at 1600 RPM... it's anything but quiet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I guess to some it may not be bad but I'm trying to get things as quiet as possible, not willing to spend $$$ on crazy quiet fans though, trying to do what I can with what I've got.


Lol you need to move up here where it's -30C








I can't believe how cool my setup is considering I have stock corsair fans on that casing!


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Lol you need to move up here where it's -30C
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't believe how cool my setup is considering I have stock corsair fans on that casing!


-30

no thanks, i'll buy better fans and stay here in Miami


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> -30
> 
> no thanks, i'll buy better fans and stay here in Miami


So would I lol...well, anywhere that in winter it drops to 0C or 32F is fine with me


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah I've seen erratic behaviours with different LLC settings, I leave it at auto for now.
> Now I will experiment with the NB/HT OC, they seem to really benefit our chips!
> 
> 
> 
> I might have to check out ocing more than just multiplier. I have heard that you end up getting a better, more stable oc out of it.
Click to expand...

not really imo, just more options, let us know if you need any help
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> -30
> 
> no thanks, i'll buy better fans and stay here in Miami
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So would I lol...well, anywhere that in winter it drops to 0C or 32F is fine with me
Click to expand...

ill take the snow and mountains thanks

as far as llc i dont know why you all have so many issues with llc, mine works great maybe it is just the ud7 vs others?

also to note i have hit 1.7v ( cap in bios at the time for the sabertooth ) and others since they lifted that have used 1.8v on water without any issues ( short times obviously ) but 1.6v is nothing bad 24/7


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ill take the snow and mountains thanks


I used to live in Bailey CO, so I got plenty of snow and mountains back then


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not really imo, just more options, let us know if you need any help
> ill take the snow and mountains thanks
> 
> as far as llc i dont know why you all have so many issues with llc, mine works great maybe it is just the ud7 vs others?
> 
> also to note i have hit 1.7v ( cap in bios at the time for the sabertooth ) and others since they lifted that have used 1.8v on water without any issues ( short times obviously ) but 1.6v is nothing bad 24/7


How are you using your LLC? Are you starting off high, and than ocing?

I've read that the max suggested voltage is 1.55v. Now, I know there most likely isn't a set in stone barrier, but, if I see over it, it worries me. I know I'd really prefer not to blow my board, or CPU. Also, I'm using a H100i, and the stock heatsink for VRM. Not a custom loop set up for taking things to too much of a extreme.

Anyway, I just think LLC is one of those things that if you're setting high, you should be aware that you need to keep a close eye on the voltage that it's pushing. Better safe than sorry. I know I don't want to be that guy.


----------



## Spekkie88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Should have mosfet and northbridge water blocks here on Wednesday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Will be able to keep fans at super low 700-800 RPM without having to worry about blowing anything up on the board. Super quiet and will look super sexayyyy!
> 
> Still need to update rig details with all the water cooling stuff, keep forgetting.


Keep in mind though that I too had my rev 1.2 UD3 watercooled and managed to blow up the VRMs... Just saying that watercooling the VRMs stil makes them vulnerable...
So just don't crank up the voltages too much, even when the temps look ok...


----------



## M3TAl

Details of the loop and blocks? How much rad did you have, which mosfet block, what pump? What type of TIM did you use between the block and mosfet?


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not really imo, just more options, let us know if you need any help
> ill take the snow and mountains thanks
> 
> as far as llc i dont know why you all have so many issues with llc, mine works great maybe it is just the ud7 vs others?
> 
> also to note i have hit 1.7v ( cap in bios at the time for the sabertooth ) and others since they lifted that have used 1.8v on water without any issues ( short times obviously ) but 1.6v is nothing bad 24/7


Thanks for the infos, I don't know I have a UD5


----------



## Mega Man

with llc i have always recommended high - ultra high and it always works well, extreme is just too much for normal users


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> with llc i have always recommended high - ultra high and it always works well, extreme is just too much for normal users


but for me running @ 4.5Ghz off my FX-6300 I can let LLC at auto or it's not recomended?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> with llc i have always recommended high - ultra high and it always works well, extreme is just too much for normal users
> 
> 
> 
> but for me running @ 4.5Ghz off my FX-6300 I can let LLC at auto or it's not recomended?
Click to expand...

i still have the same recommendation for you, in all the boards i have tested ( ud7, CVFz, sabertooth ) they give the best voltage, you can even shut it off, and just compensate for the vdroop


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i still have the same recommendation for you, in all the boards i have tested ( ud7, CVFz, sabertooth ) they give the best voltage, you can even shut it off, and just compensate for the vdroop


There is no option to turn off LLC in rev 3 boards. Also, I don't think there is any difference between the UD5 and UD7 boards, other than the UD7 supporting 4 way sli, and being larger. Heatsink / component wise, I think they both fall in the same camp.

I'll look into it more myself. I just remember before even having voltage spikes, or less stable OC with LLC set too high. Now, one thing I should mention, is most of my experiments with it was using a 970a-UD3
, that seemed to throttle the hell out of me no matter what. Maybe that's the issue. I have however, been spiked on this current board, but, that was after already setting up my current oc, and not starting off.

It might be time to go back to the drawing board, and see what happens with this board, if I start with high LLC, and lower voltage. I will make sure to keep a close eye on current voltage, and keep a saved profile of my current, stable OC.

**So far it's looking good. I'm running at 4.5 MHZ off of 1.440V. I just started, but, temps are looking good for now, and no voltage spikes, though, I'll keep a close eye since prime takes awhile to really kick it into high gear. Maybe my previous issues with LLC were due to a faulty board?

**Still looking good voltage did increase to 1.452 once, but, nothing major. I'm thinking I'll run about an hour at this setting, than drop it back. I really want to find out where I stop being stable. Assuming of course this doesn't fail with in that time.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> **So far it's looking good. I'm running at 4.5 MHZ off of 1.440V. I just started, but, temps are looking good for now, and no voltage spikes, though, I'll keep a close eye since prime takes awhile to really kick it into high gear. Maybe my previous issues with LLC were due to a faulty board?
> 
> **Still looking good voltage did increase to 1.452 once, but, nothing major. I'm thinking I'll run about an hour at this setting, than drop it back. I really want to find out where I stop being stable. Assuming of course this doesn't fail with in that time.


Good! My spikes are much more than that but when I launch HWMonitor there is always a relatively low and then it stabilizes.
I was told I could have a faulty board but my voltage never went above 1.456 with 3 hours of stress testing!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Good! My spikes are much more than that but when I launch HWMonitor there is always a relatively low and then it stabilizes.
> I was told I could have a faulty board but my voltage never went above 1.456 with 3 hours of stress testing!


Did you go back, lower your Vcore, and than set LLC to high? You want to cut back on Vcore.

On my previous OC, I set my Vcore to +0.250, and LLC auto. What I did, was go in, Set Vcore to +0.100, and LLC to high.

It's still looking good. If it stays, I'll go back in, and drop my Vcore. I'm kind of doing a backwards OC. I'll keep doing that until I fail.

*I'm kind of cheating atm. My temps maxed at 58c, because of the heater being on, and heat building up in my computer room. I opened up the window, and now it's running at 39c =D. It's 3c outside atm. Not normal for around here. Now during the summer I blast the AC, and keep it nice and cold in here (20c / 68), but, during the winter, my ol'lady insists on having the damned heater running. I normally wouldn't just leave the window open, since it introduces a lot of dust.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Did you go back, lower your Vcore, and than set LLC to high? You want to cut back on Vcore.
> 
> On my previous OC, I set my Vcore to +0.250, and LLC auto. What I did, was go in, Set Vcore to +0.100, and LLC to high.
> 
> It's still looking good. If it stays, I'll go back in, and drop my Vcore. I'm kind of doing a backwards OC. I'll keep doing that until I fail.
> 
> *I'm kind of cheating atm. My temps maxed at 58c, because of the heater being on, and heat building up in my computer room. I opened up the window, and now it's running at 39c =D. It's 3c outside atm. Not normal for around here. Now during the summer I blast the AC, and keep it nice and cold in here (20c / 68), but, during the winter, my ol'lady insists on having the damned heater running. I normally wouldn't just leave the window open, since it introduces a lot of dust.


My vcore was set @+0.250 and LLC to auto, I will experiment with lowering the core just a bit.
Here it's fresh air all year long it's in a rural area so there is no outside pollution.
Temps are not normal across the globe right now except here lol we're used to -30C in january









I just did a test and only raise the multi, set it to 21x, vcore +0.150 and LLC to high and my vcore varies from 1.440-1.452!








But, my cpu is running hotter @47-49C for a speed of 4220


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> My vcore was set @+0.250 and LLC to auto, I will experiment with lowering the core just a bit.
> Here it's fresh air all year long it's in a rural area so there is no outside pollution.
> Temps are not normal across the globe right now except here lol we're used to -30C in january
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just did a test and only raise the multi, set it to 21x, vcore +0.150 and LLC to high and my vcore varies from 1.440-1.452!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, my cpu is running hotter @47-49C for a speed of 4220


Yea, that's what I'm noticing also. Since the voltage isn't dropping, the temps have increased.

I passed over 2 hours at the settings I was using, but, it wasn't anything I couldn't of done before.

I dropped to +0.050, and failed quickly, as expected. So, about to try +0.75. If this fails, than I'm more limited in my oc with LLC than before.

Basically, it seems like LLC allows for less voltage, but, since it keeps a steady voltage, it increases temps. Oh well, can only try it out.

*I'm not sure though, it may end up hotter at the extreme, but, if you get stable at max, and than drop your oc down one or two steps, it might end up with better temps. If that makes sense to you.

Point being, you're now at the lower overclock you would of been at before, but with much less voltage.

*Drop more off of your Vcore. I did a drastic drop, and it seems be working fairly well. I'd say for that 4.2, take it down to +0.025. Though, I'd set it to more like 4.5 +0.100. See how that works for you.


----------



## Mega Man

extreme brings on the heat and overvolts, really useful if you are l2n... if not... then not so much


----------



## Chargeit

Well, failed @ +0.075v. Too bad.

Good news is, I have figured out where I'm stable using LLC high @ 4.5. +0.100 or, 1.440V.

***I'm now trying 4.6 @ +0.125. 1.464v.

Well, after messing with this some, I'm thinking that OCing like this, will end up with higher max temps, but lower normal usage temps (Such as gaming).

Where doing it my old way, will end up with lower max temps, but higher normal usage temps.

I'm not sure that's how it's going to work out yet, but, I'm thinking it will end up working out like that.

**Looks like for 4.6 I need +0.150, or 1.488v.
I'm stress testing right now, and about 40 min in. It looks good, and I expect it to pass. However, if it weren't for the cold outside, I wouldn't be able to do it. Having the heat on during the winter just kills my OC. Still it's a good time to see what I can get. Though, I'm thinking I'll stop here. Knowing my stable 4.6 should be good enough. Unless my ol'lady lets me get a window unit







not likely. I'd buy that sob right now if I thought I could get away with putting one in my computer room window. lol.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, that's what I'm noticing also. Since the voltage isn't dropping, the temps have increased.
> 
> I passed over 2 hours at the settings I was using, but, it wasn't anything I couldn't of done before.
> 
> I dropped to +0.050, and failed quickly, as expected. So, about to try +0.75. If this fails, than I'm more limited in my oc with LLC than before.
> 
> Basically, it seems like LLC allows for less voltage, but, since it keeps a steady voltage, it increases temps. Oh well, can only try it out.
> 
> *I'm not sure though, it may end up hotter at the extreme, but, if you get stable at max, and than drop your oc down one or two steps, it might end up with better temps. If that makes sense to you.
> 
> Point being, you're now at the lower overclock you would of been at before, but with much less voltage.
> 
> *Drop more off of your Vcore. I did a drastic drop, and it seems be working fairly well. I'd say for that 4.2, take it down to +0.025. Though, I'd set it to more like 4.5 +0.100. See how that works for you.


Yeah LLC is the hardest thing to tweak! But I am really happy about my vcore stable now...before it had a difference of 0.9v between low and high which is not good.
I'll try slightly less voltage tomorrow and report!


----------



## Spekkie88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Details of the loop and blocks? How much rad did you have, which mosfet block, what pump? What type of TIM did you use between the block and mosfet?


2x 240 rads and a 120 rad. Swiftech MCP355 pump, 3x EKWB cooled HD5870, EKWB Supreme LTX for the cpu, Koolance CHC 120 for the ND and Koolance MVR-40 with 107,5mm transfer plate for the mosfets.

I used the koolance thermalpad provided with the plate directly on the vrms, and put MX-4 between the plate and the MVR-40.
Cpu temps were ok with a +.125 voltage increase, but the vrms fried nonetheless. LLC set to max.


----------



## M3TAl

I've got a thermal probe on the back of the board where mosfets are so I'll be keeping an eye on them. I know the back of the board heats up like crazy when there's not much airlfow to the VRM heatsink and the CPU is being pushed hard. Hopefully this doesn't happen to me. Taking every precaution I can think of. Got 720mm total rad and will be using the 11w/mk Fujipoly thermal pad between mosfets and the EK block.

Thanks for the details. Feel like as long as I keep an eye on the back of the board temp I won't run into any disasters.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've got a thermal probe on the back of the board where mosfets are so I'll be keeping an eye on them. I know the back of the board heats up like crazy when there's not much airlfow to the VRM heatsink and the CPU is being pushed hard. Hopefully this doesn't happen to me. Taking every precaution I can think of. Got 720mm total rad and will be using the 11w/mk Fujipoly thermal pad between mosfets and the EK block.
> 
> Thanks for the details. Feel like as long as I keep an eye on the back of the board temp I won't run into any disasters.


I will have a look at mine too but I won't push mine past 4.5


----------



## Chargeit

This has worked out fairly well.

I'm clocked at 4.6 (1.488V) now. I still have to see what happens in a more heated room, but, I do think it will hold up in normal usage (gaming and the such).

I will have to keep a watch on it for awhile however. If my CPU did go to 100%, than I don't think my current settings could keep it at a acceptable thermal level.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> This has worked out fairly well.
> 
> I'm clocked at 4.6 (1.488V) now. I still have to see what happens in a more heated room, but, I do think it will hold up in normal usage (gaming and the such).
> 
> I will have to keep a watch on it for awhile however. If my CPU did go to 100%, than I don't think my current settings could keep it at a acceptable thermal level.


That's nice! What's the cpu temp?
I tried FurMark and nticed that my GPU temp was going to 53C quickly but it's a crappy Zotac GT 630 I will upgrade it next month


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> That's nice! What's the cpu temp?
> I tried FurMark and nticed that my GPU temp was going to 53C quickly but it's a crappy Zotac GT 630 I will upgrade it next month


Idle my GPU is at 26c right now. Under load, it rarely gets past 57c. GTX 780 here. It can handle it.









53c under load isn't bad. Though, I'm not sure about that GPU.

Yea, that's the way to do it man. I started off with a HD7850 (good card btw), and upgraded to this GPU after awhile. I'd personally recommend A GTX 760 - GTX 770, or, it they come down in price, R9 270, R9 270x, or R9 280x. Assuming you're not trying to go huge.

*Running heaven my GPU got to 60c last night, but, it was cold in the room. I forget what it's max temp is, but, it isn't bad.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> This has worked out fairly well.
> 
> I'm clocked at 4.6 (1.488V) now. I still have to see what happens in a more heated room, but, I do think it will hold up in normal usage (gaming and the such).
> 
> I will have to keep a watch on it for awhile however. If my CPU did go to 100%, than I don't think my current settings could keep it at a acceptable thermal level.


if your room temp is 1c more then the old room temp, add 1c to the temps you have ect ect

also something i keep forgetting to tell people, is when you fail an oc i find most of the time i have to load stock settings reboot and load oc settings other wise it wont post ( even at known stable settings )

may help some as i keep seeing " i cant get anything above _____ " and i highly doubt it to be true in most cases, unless the new chips are really really bad...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if your room temp is 1c more then the old room temp, add 1c to the temps you have ect ect
> 
> also something i keep forgetting to tell people, is when you fail an oc i find most of the time i have to load stock settings reboot and load oc settings other wise it wont post ( even at known stable settings )
> 
> may help some as i keep seeing " i cant get anything above _____ " and i highly doubt it to be true in most cases, unless the new chips are really really bad...


It seems good at 4.6. I was able to pass over a hour stability test, and maintain temps. It was cold as hell though. I would of easily gone into the 60's without the outside air.

However, now that I'm just doing normal things, my temps aren't getting out of the 40's when gaming. Idle are low, and general usage low.

It's looking really, really good right now.







And 4.6 is where I wanted to be. I'm stoked.









*And my team won their game last night so I'm double stoked.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Idle my GPU is at 26c right now. Under load, it rarely gets past 57c. GTX 780 here. It can handle it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 53c under load isn't bad. Though, I'm not sure about that GPU.
> 
> Yea, that's the way to do it man. I started off with a HD7850 (good card btw), and upgraded to this GPU after awhile. I'd personally recommend A GTX 760 - GTX 770, or, it they come down in price, R9 270, R9 270x, or R9 280x. Assuming you're not trying to go huge.
> 
> *Running heaven my GPU got to 60c last night, but, it was cold in the room. I forget what it's max temp is, but, it isn't bad.


My GPU has a basiv heatsink and mini fan on it, I wil, probably get a 650Ti OC as I don't need much more, FSX is CPU hungry and doesn't exploit the GPU at all...I just want a decent card that has shadow play


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> It seems good at 4.6. I was able to pass over a hour stability test, and maintain temps. It was cold as hell though. I would of easily gone into the 60's without the outside air.
> However, now that I'm just doing normal things, my temps aren't getting out of the 40's when gaming. Idle are low, and general usage low.
> It's looking really, really good right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And 4.6 is where I wanted to be. I'm stoked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *And my team won their game last night so I'm double stoked.


That's great! 4.6 stable is very good!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> My GPU has a basiv heatsink and mini fan on it, I wil, probably get a 650Ti OC as I don't need much more, FSX is CPU hungry and doesn't exploit the GPU at all...I just want a decent card that has shadow play


You might want to go a little higher if you're wanting to use shadow play. 660 - 760. I think the 660's are only 50 or so more than the 650 ti. I suggest, unless you just have no way of affording it, get a 660 or better.

Shoot, for like 20 bucks more than a 650 ti, you can get a R9 270. It won't have shadow play, but, it would destroy the 650 ti. My last card was AMD, and I never had any issues that were suppose to of plagued them. It's something you should consider.

I'm really happy about the 4.6. As far as being stable, I've only done a little over a hour, and I really doubt it would pass a 24 hour stress test, but, I'm happy with it for now. Later, I might try 4 hours. I'm 99% that this current oc would be able to handle it. So, at least for now, it's gaming stable.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> if your room temp is 1c more then the old room temp, add 1c to the temps you have ect ect
> 
> also something i keep forgetting to tell people, is when you fail an oc i find most of the time i have to load stock settings reboot and load oc settings other wise it wont post ( even at known stable settings )
> 
> may help some as i keep seeing " i cant get anything above _____ " and i highly doubt it to be true in most cases, unless the new chips are really really bad...


That was basically my experience with the 970A-UD3. It would get really wonky and refuse to post at known good settings after failing an OC. Haven't had that experience yet with the 990FXA-UD3.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> You might want to go a little higher if you're wanting to use shadow play. 660 - 760. I think the 660's are only 50 or so more than the 650 ti. I suggest, unless you just have no way of affording it, get a 660 or better.
> Shoot, for like 20 bucks more than a 650 ti, you can get a R9 270. It won't have shadow play, but, it would destroy the 650 ti. My last card was AMD, and I never had any issues that were suppose to of plagued them. It's something you should consider.
> 
> I'm really happy about the 4.6. As far as being stable, I've only done a little over a hour, and I really doubt it would pass a 24 hour stress test, but, I'm happy with it for now. Later, I might try 4 hours. I'm 99% that this current oc would be able to handle it. So, at least for now, it's gaming stable.


Yeah probably the 660 but I don't need much higher because FSX doesn't care about a video card...but I do need a good one for shadow play. I won't go for an AMD just because I want shadow play. There is FRAPS but it's pretty hard to get good videos because the sim already takes any CPU like there is no tomorrow.

Well, 4.6 is pretty darn good!! I run mine @ 4.2 for now, I will slowly raise it, I don't want to crash in the middle of a long flight lol


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah probably the 660 but I don't need much higher because FSX doesn't care about a video card...but I do need a good one for shadow play. I won't go for an AMD just because I want shadow play. There is FRAPS but it's pretty hard to get good videos because the sim already takes any CPU like there is no tomorrow.
> 
> Well, 4.6 is pretty darn good!! I run mine @ 4.2 for now, I will slowly raise it, I don't want to crash in the middle of a long flight lol


Yea, the 660 sounds like the better option.

I mean, the 650 ti might cover it with shadow play, but, I'd imagine that you'd end up wishing you stepped up to the 660.

***One more thing, make sure your PSU will support a 660, and has the proper connections.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, the 660 sounds like the better option.
> 
> I mean, the 650 ti might cover it with shadow play, but, I'd imagine that you'd end up wishing you stepped up to the 660.
> 
> ***One more thing, make sure your PSU will support a 660, and has the proper connections.


Thanks I will look into that!
My PSU is a Corsair CX750M and so far it hasn't used a lot of power, I guess bumping to a 660 might crank it up a notch but I only have 2 500Gb HD's and stock casing fans


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Thanks I will look into that!
> My PSU is a Corsair CX750M and so far it hasn't used a lot of power, I guess bumping to a 660 might crank it up a notch but I only have 2 500Gb HD's and stock casing fans


The wattage is fine. Systems tend not to use much wattage. A pretty demanding single card gaming rig may use 350 - 400 at load. I'm talking about power connections. That PSU should have them, I'd assume.

My old PSU, was a CX500M. It handled my FX 8320 oc'ed, and a HD 7850 oc'ed with no issues.

Card manufacturers tend to over estimate the suggested psu major, so there will be less chance of issues. Also, lesser no name PSUs tend to be way under powered. A 750w no name PSU, may be lucky to put out 350w. Corsair is a good PSU brand.

*If you get a 660, remember to keep a eye out for a good deal on a 760.

*660 vs 760*
http://www.hwcompare.com/14801/geforce-gtx-660-vs-geforce-gtx-760/

*650 Ti vs 660*
http://www.hwcompare.com/13789/geforce-gtx-650-ti-2gb-vs-geforce-gtx-660/

MSI 660 oc ($190)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127756

Asus 660 ($199)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121660

Make sure to figure out which ones are suggested. Those are two of the better priced ones I saw. Hopefully, the prices aren't too far off in Canada.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> The wattage is fine. Systems tend not to use much wattage. A pretty demanding single card gaming rig may use 350 - 400 at load. I'm talking about power connections. That PSU should have them, I'd assume.
> 
> My old PSU, was a CX500M. It handled my FX 8320 oc'ed, and a HD 7850 oc'ed with no issues.
> 
> Card manufacturers tend to over estimate the suggested psu major, so there will be less chance of issues. Also, lesser no name PSUs tend to be way under powered. A 750w no name PSU, may be lucky to put out 350w. Corsair is a good PSU brand.
> 
> *If you get a 660, remember to keep a eye out for a good deal on a 760.
> 
> *660 vs 760*
> http://www.hwcompare.com/14801/geforce-gtx-660-vs-geforce-gtx-760/
> 
> *650 Ti vs 660*
> http://www.hwcompare.com/13789/geforce-gtx-650-ti-2gb-vs-geforce-gtx-660/
> 
> MSI 660 oc ($190)
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127756
> 
> Asus 660 ($199)
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121660
> 
> Make sure to figure out which ones are suggested. Those are two of the better priced ones I saw. Hopefully, the prices aren't too far off in Canada.


Yeah this is why I got a Corsair PSU, it's actually quite well rated and it's full modular








Yikes this is a lot of watts for a graphics card! I will check deals on Newegg, prices in Canada are pretty much even now, which is great compared to a few years ago!
Thanks for the infos


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah this is why I got a Corsair PSU, it's actually quite well rated and it's full modular
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yikes this is a lot of watts for a graphics card! I will check deals on Newegg, prices in Canada are pretty much even now, which is great compared to a few years ago!
> Thanks for the infos


Oh, they only need a single 6 pin connection. Nice. You should see my GPU. It's got 3 different cords hanging from it. Damned thing takes a 6 pin, and a 8 pin. The 6 pin is only one wire, but for the 8 pin wire, they included a converter, so two wires plug into it. Looks like it's on life support or something.

You're good. Your psu has a 6pin without a doubt, and you have more than enough wattage.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Oh, they only need a single 6 pin connection. Nice. You should see my GPU. It's got 3 different cords hanging from it. Damned thing takes a 6 pin, and a 8 pin. The 6 pin is only one wire, but for the 8 pin wire, they included a converter, so two wires plug into it. Looks like it's on life support or something.
> 
> You're good. Your psu has a 6pin without a doubt, and you have more than enough wattage.


Lol yeah gotta love cables everywhere!








I love this new PSU, I've never had a casing that has free space in it!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Lol yeah gotta love cables everywhere!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love this new PSU, I've never had a casing that has free space in it!


Yea, mines modular (TX850M), but it doesn't do much good since I need so many wires. I've outgrown my case. I do have 3 or 4 wires I'm not using, so, I guess that helps. I really need to take a fresh picture of the inside of my rig. I tried the last time I took it apart, but, all of the pictures ended up black. I can't find my digital camera to take a decent picture. Most likely for the best, it isn't nearly as neat looking as my current picture.

A single 6 pin isn't an issue though. That's one wire. You should have PCI power cables that are 6 pin, that split into a 4 / 2 pin.

I cut my OC back down to 4.5. It runs fine at 4.6, but, with FarCry 3, I had to kick the CPU fans up to balanced, from quiet. I prefer to keep them lower, and generate less heat. Once the summer comes back around, and I have the AC running 24/7, I'll move back up to 4.6. This computer room just gets too damned hot without AC, or it being really, really cold outside.

*The lights were on in my computer room. Lol, you can still tell there are too many wires. I just don't have anything I can do with them now.*



I could hide that white wire better by running it through the back, I think I have the space. What's the point though. I need more space for routing wires.









One of my GPU power cables comes from the top. It was routed for use with my old GPU. the new ones, are too much for me to run through the back.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, mines modular (TX850M), but it doesn't do much good since I need so many wires. I've outgrown my case. I do have 3 or 4 wires I'm not using, so, I guess that helps. I really need to take a fresh picture of the inside of my rig. I tried the last time I took it apart, but, all of the pictures ended up black. I can't find my digital camera to take a decent picture. Most likely for the best, it isn't nearly as neat looking as my current picture.
> 
> A single 6 pin isn't an issue though. That's one wire. You should have PCI power cables that are 6 pin, that split into a 4 / 2 pin.
> 
> I cut my OC back down to 4.5. It runs fine at 4.6, but, with FarCry 3, I had to kick the CPU fans up to balanced, from quiet. I prefer to keep them lower, and generate less heat. Once the summer comes back around, and I have the AC running 24/7, I'll move back up to 4.6. This computer room just gets too damned hot without AC, or it being really, really cold outside.
> 
> *The lights were on in my computer room. Lol, you can still tell there are too many wires. I just don't have anything I can do with them now.*
> 
> 
> 
> I could hide that white wire better by running it through the back, I think I have the space. What's the point though. I need more space for routing wires.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One of my GPU power cables comes from the top. It was routed for use with my old GPU. the new ones, are too much for me to run through the back.


Yikes yes quite dark in there lol. You have a lot more things than I do! Hey if you want some cool air I can send them express to your place








I will be fine with one extra 6-pin cable, there will still be plenty of space in the casing...it's a full 3 inches taller than my previous one!
How much power/temp is your GTX 780 pulling? This is a monster compared to my puny GT 630!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yikes yes quite dark in there lol. You have a lot more things than I do! Hey if you want some cool air I can send them express to your place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will be fine with one extra 6-pin cable, there will still be plenty of space in the casing...it's a full 3 inches taller than my previous one!
> How much power/temp is your GTX 780 pulling? This is a monster compared to my puny GT 630!


Yea, I started giving up on keeping my wires well managed when I got the fan controller. That large white wire is from my SD reader. I haven't allowed any of it to get in the way of good airflow, it's more of a cosmetic issue right now. I keep them all tied off, and bundled up, I just have no where to hide them. Also, I got tired of redoing my wires every time I added so much as a fan. I'm basically done now, my last upgrade will be 16gb of 1866 ram, no wires there. After that, there isn't much I can add, other than replacing my whole mobo, and CPU (no immediate plans for replacing CPU/mobo). Well, I'll add another data drive, but, I'll replace my current data drive when I do. Unless someone wants to give me a 780 they have laying around, I don't see myself going SLI with mine







.

When I add my ram, I'll see what can be done about my current wire layout. I don't have the space for running behind the mobo tray, but, I can most likely get them routed to be less of an eye sore. I mainly wanted to wait on that, until I was done.

my GPU temps depend on the game. Most games don't go past 55c, and <45c isn't uncommon. Something like FarCry 3, that can work it, 60 - 63c. It would be less however, if my room temps didn't get so high. One bonus of going overkill on a GPU, is it doesn't have to work as hard, assuming you're limiting its fps in some way.


----------



## M3TAl

Don't give up on wire management, keep working at it! Mine isn't 100% amazing but I'd call it decent. What sucks is that a molex Y adapter has to be run right against the side of PSU to get power to the NZXT LED's. The nasty bare red, black, and yellow wires annoy me







. Can't really do anything about it though, that's the only way to get power to the LED's


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Don't give up on wire management, keep working at it! Mine isn't 100% amazing but I'd call it decent. What sucks is that a molex Y adapter has to be run right against the side of PSU to get power to the NZXT LED's. The nasty bare red, black, and yellow wires annoy me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Can't really do anything about it though, that's the only way to get power to the LED's


My issue was more that I was upgrading so much, that it was just too much extra work to fully run wires every time I did something. I mean, the only parts in my system which are the same as when I made it are the CPU, Ram, and HDD. I guess the case and cd, but, you know.

I've upgraded, in this order.

Added a Fan controller
Upgrade PSU
Upgrade Mobo / SSD
Added a SD card reader
Upgrade GPU
Upgrade Heatsink

Tons of fan change outs, and swaps during all of it. The fans are what did it. It was about the time it took me over 1 hour to add a fan that should of taken 10 min, that I said "F'this". I had to pull my system apart, just to add one fan, rework all kinds of wires, cut ties. Lots of unnecessary work. On top of that, you can't see inside of my case. I mean, come'on.


----------



## M3TAl

The backside of my mobo/case looks pretty nasty, yet somehow the side panel still fits pretty easily. And the 690 II Advanced doesn't have very much space back there either.

It's even more of a disaster right now because the two new Swiftech splitters are just hanging off, that's what I needed extra PWM extensions for which came in today. Just haven't got them hooked up yet.


----------



## herericc

Hey guys, looking for help!

Upgraded to a 8320 for xmas, and I was hoping to overclock it.

I'm using a 990FXA-UD3 rev 3 (Wish I had just about any other mobo at this point)

I've installed an Enzotech cooler to the VRMs using Arctic MX-4 after removing the thermal tape that came with it, as well as screwing it down instead of using the spring-clips.

I also have 2 40mm fans ziptied together blowing on the VRMs and the CPU is being cooled by a Swiftech H220.

The CPU is running happily at 4620MHz at the moment, but during prime95 blend tests, the processor downvolts and downclocks for just a moment at a time.

The voltage drops to 1.020V from 1.512 and the clocks drop from 4.6 to ~1.4.

All power saving states are turned off, and I am not sure what to do at this point, since I was sure that using a better heatsink and putting a fan on the VRM's would solve this issue.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!









Here's a pic of the VRMs with the fans ghetto-rigged: http://imgur.com/7dYthex


----------



## M3TAl

Quite a few people have had this issue. Is HPC on or off? Try switching it to the opposite of whatever it's currently set to. Also make sure to disable Core Performance Boost, C1E, and Cool&Quiet (though I leave this on). Also disable APM if you can find that in BIOS.

Believe if you use the AMD Overdrive software and disable AMD Turbo Core Technology this disables APM.


----------



## herericc

Changing HPC mode to OFF caused the throttling to happen IMMEDIATELY upon starting the prime95 test.

The change in clock was not as dramatic however, but it was consistent. About half the cores would run at 4.6 and the other half would run at 2.9 at any one time, and the VCORE would bounce from 1.5 to 1.368.

I have LLC on high, and a voltage offset of +0.1V.


----------



## Chargeit

Hmmm... I might take a look at the inside of my case. See what I can do, since I'm basically done upgrading. I really do want a good picture also. Damned digital camera is no where to be seen, and I need something with flash.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> Hey guys, looking for help!
> 
> Upgraded to a 8320 for xmas, and I was hoping to overclock it.
> 
> I'm using a 990FXA-UD3 rev 3 (Wish I had just about any other mobo at this point)
> 
> I've installed an Enzotech cooler to the VRMs using Arctic MX-4 after removing the thermal tape that came with it, as well as screwing it down instead of using the spring-clips.
> 
> I also have 2 40mm fans ziptied together blowing on the VRMs and the CPU is being cooled by a Swiftech H220.
> 
> The CPU is running happily at 4620MHz at the moment, but during prime95 blend tests, the processor downvolts and downclocks for just a moment at a time.
> 
> The voltage drops to 1.020V from 1.512 and the clocks drop from 4.6 to ~1.4.
> 
> All power saving states are turned off, and I am not sure what to do at this point, since I was sure that using a better heatsink and putting a fan on the VRM's would solve this issue.
> 
> Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a pic of the VRMs with the fans ghetto-rigged: http://imgur.com/7dYthex


Make sure to get the latest bios from Gigabyte. Turn APM off, set LLC to high, and restart your OC.


----------



## M3TAl

Really would like a statement from Gigabyte about all this throttling on Rev. 3 boards. It has to be something with the BIOS/Software. AFAIK the VRM/mosfets are the same between both revisions unless someone knows otherwise.

Maybe they implemented some really strict VRM throttling/overheat protection in the 3.0 boards? But with an Enzotech MST-88 screwed on there and fans blowing on it you should have 0 problems with it overheating.


----------



## herericc

Yeah I don't doubt that it's the fault of the bios.

The bios is super hard to use and very clunky, and my PC has to start up like 3 times before it makes it to windows if I change like any settings related to the processor or ram.

Unfortunately with all the money I put into my PC this christmas there isn't really any way I can afford to switch out my mobo, so I'm stuck with this POS.

Probably never going to buy another Gigabyte motherboard again based on my experiences.


----------



## M3TAl

Did you try getting rid of APM? Try using AMD Overdrive and disabling that Turbo Core Control. http://download.amd.com/Desktop/aod_setup_4.2.6.exe


----------



## herericc

I just flashed the BIOS back to default settings, getting tired so I think I'll get back to overclocking this weekend or something.

As far as I can tell, APM was already disabled. I went into overdrive and made sure that turbo core was disabled, those are the same thing right? Turbo core was already disabled in bios.

Anyways, I'm optimistic about my new chip, since it was able to boot into windows at 4.8GHz earlier today, with only a 0.075V offset.

Just gotta work through Gigabyte's crap to get it there haha!


----------



## M3TAl

What button do you press to get into the BIOS for the UEFI boards? Wondering if there is hidden advanced settings like the old boards had. For the old boards its ctrl + F1/F2/Delete whichever key it is.


----------



## herericc

I have just been spamming the crap out of Del as the computer starts up, gets me to bios no problems


----------



## GroovyMotion

I leave HPC mode on and I think this is where my voltage got stable as opposed to before...I was getting almost 1.0 volt difference often when I first started to OC.

About the Enzotech cooler to the VRMs, I have no idea...does it really help?


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> I have just been spamming the crap out of Del as the computer starts up, gets me to bios no problems


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The backside of my mobo/case looks pretty nasty, yet somehow the side panel still fits pretty easily. And the 690 II Advanced doesn't have very much space back there either.
> 
> It's even more of a disaster right now because the two new Swiftech splitters are just hanging off, that's what I needed extra PWM extensions for which came in today. Just haven't got them hooked up yet.


That's some serious cable back there!


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I started giving up on keeping my wires well managed when I got the fan controller. That large white wire is from my SD reader. I haven't allowed any of it to get in the way of good airflow, it's more of a cosmetic issue right now. I keep them all tied off, and bundled up, I just have no where to hide them. Also, I got tired of redoing my wires every time I added so much as a fan. I'm basically done now, my last upgrade will be 16gb of 1866 ram, no wires there. After that, there isn't much I can add, other than replacing my whole mobo, and CPU (no immediate plans for replacing CPU/mobo). Well, I'll add another data drive, but, I'll replace my current data drive when I do. Unless someone wants to give me a 780 they have laying around, I don't see myself going SLI with mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> When I add my ram, I'll see what can be done about my current wire layout. I don't have the space for running behind the mobo tray, but, I can most likely get them routed to be less of an eye sore. I mainly wanted to wait on that, until I was done.
> 
> my GPU temps depend on the game. Most games don't go past 55c, and <45c isn't uncommon. Something like FarCry 3, that can work it, 60 - 63c. It would be less however, if my room temps didn't get so high. One bonus of going overkill on a GPU, is it doesn't have to work as hard, assuming you're limiting its fps in some way.


16Gb is nice I only put in 8Gb for now because I didn't really need the extra RAM and budget was pretty tight.

Yeah you gotta convince the wife that it's too hot in there and it's not good, it could help the spreading of bacterias!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> That's some serious cable back there!


I tightened it up some.

My pictures still suck, for this one, I had to flip on its side. Problem being, I had to hold the phone at a very odd angle to get a pic. The rest of them were really bad. =D





Well, better than nothing. =D


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> 16Gb is nice I only put in 8Gb for now because I didn't really need the extra RAM and budget was pretty tight.
> 
> Yeah you gotta convince the wife that it's too hot in there and it's not good, it could help the spreading of bacterias!


Upgrading to 16 gb is purely e-peen for me. I don't need it, I want it.

To be honest, it will be more than I can possibly need any time soon. That's why I'm going to get it. Any performance gain would be unmeasurable, if any at all.

She isn't falling it.

*And I need ram for my spare parts rig... Might as well upgrade what I've got, and use my current in that system.


----------



## M3TAl

Holy moley them some blurry pics


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Holy moley them some blurry pics


I know.

Damned things look good, until I move them to my computer.









That white streak to the right top side of my GPU, is that damned converter. It is as yellow, and ugly as sin. The largest issue, is it's about 6 inches long, and than connects to two PCI power cables. I don't have many options to hide where it connects.

It's all good. Sooner or later, I'll move to a larger case, with much better cable management. Until than, as long as my airflow isn't hindered, it's good.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I tightened it up some.
> 
> My pictures still suck, for this one, I had to flip on its side. Problem being, I had to hold the phone at a very odd angle to get a pic. The rest of them were really bad. =D
> 
> Upgrading to 16 gb is purely e-peen for me. I don't need it, I want it.
> 
> To be honest, it will be more than I can possibly need any time soon. That's why I'm going to get it. Any performance gain would be unmeasurable, if any at all.
> 
> She isn't falling it.
> 
> *And I need ram for my spare parts rig... Might as well upgrade what I've got, and use my current in that system.


Your casing has about 1.5 inch more depth than mine and basically the same height. You have 2HD's I guess the samsung is SSD?

Yeah I went for 8Gb because FSX doesn't care past 4Gb and I didn't have the $$$ to get 16Gb but I will get an extra 8Gb as soon as some $$$ comes in

I know what you mean by you don't need it but you want it lol...I buy an add-on for FSX every week!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Your casing has about 1.5 inch more depth than mine and basically the same height. You have 2HD's I guess the samsung is SSD?
> 
> Yeah I went for 8Gb because FSX doesn't care past 4Gb and I didn't have the $$$ to get 16Gb but I will get an extra 8Gb as soon as some $$$ comes in
> 
> I know what you mean by you don't need it but you want it lol...I buy an add-on for FSX every week!


Yea, this case is a nice sized mid. Its main issue are some questionable design choices.

Yea, the Samsung is a SSD. I picked up a 120gb Samsung evo for $99. It's good as a OS drive. However, if you want to get a evo for a primary drive, than step it up to the pro. Reason being, longevity. The normal evo has 1/3 the expected write life. Not a big deal if you're not going to be writing to it all the time, such as myself.

16gb is more of a luxury for most users (not needed). I was just going to slap in 8gb more of my current ram, but, I really want 1866, and, I need ram for my spare parts rig. I might as well step it up and do it right. Spending the money on 16gb would of been a major hit when making my system. As an upgrade, it isn't a big deal. Though, the ram prices are getting crazy.

I'm testing my OC at 4.4 right now. I'm thinking I'll drop back, since It will produce even less heat, and I doubt I'll notice any performance loss/gain going from 4.6, to 4.5, to 4.4. What I will notice, are much cooler temps.

Well, time to do some work, and act like I'm getting paid for more than just trolling forums.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, this case is a nice sized mid. Its main issue are some questionable design choices.
> 
> Yea, the Samsung is a SSD. I picked up a 120gb Samsung evo for $99. It's good as a OS drive. However, if you want to get a evo for a primary drive, than step it up to the pro. Reason being, longevity. The normal evo has 1/3 the expected write life. Not a big deal if you're not going to be writing to it all the time, such as myself.
> 
> 16gb is more of a luxury for most users (not needed). I was just going to slap in 8gb more of my current ram, but, I really want 1866, and, I need ram for my spare parts rig. I might as well step it up and do it right. Spending the money on 16gb would of been a major hit when making my system. As an upgrade, it isn't a big deal. Though, the ram prices are getting crazy.
> 
> I'm testing my OC at 4.4 right now. I'm thinking I'll drop back, since It will produce even less heat, and I doubt I'll notice any performance loss/gain going from 4.6, to 4.5, to 4.4. What I will notice, are much cooler temps.
> 
> Well, time to do some work, and act like I'm getting paid for more than just trolling forums.


Good to know about the SSD, I was going to get an EVO! I only need an SSD for FSX since it loads a gazillion textures and it takes up to 5min to load on some scenes and users with SSD reports the loading time cuts to about 30s!
Yeah a second rig is what I will do also, my old Athlon X2 250 will serve as a network for some apps that requires a second monitor...best to have the cockpit on one system and tue utilities on a separate rig!
Lol good one about trolling in forums!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Good to know about the SSD, I was going to get an EVO! I only need an SSD for FSX since it loads a gazillion textures and it takes up to 5min to load on some scenes and users with SSD reports the loading time cuts to about 30s!
> Yeah a second rig is what I will do also, my old Athlon X2 250 will serve as a network for some apps that requires a second monitor...best to have the cockpit on one system and tue utilities on a separate rig!
> Lol good one about trolling in forums!


Lol.

I'm calling it my spare parts rig, but, I opened my mouth around my ol'lady, and she's wanting to claim it. So, maybe her rig from my spare parts. What she fails to understand is her Laptops new, and mine is about 4 years old, and abused (used it like a htpc for awhile). If she does take the spare parts rig, I'll have to replace this laptop. I can't live without having two systems anymore. It's too convenient, and, I don't want to do grunt work on my gaming rig. Beyond the fact, half of the reason for me keeping the parts, are back ups. As my spare parts rig, if I need to, I can pull parts as back up. If she takes it, I wont be able to just pull a part if I need a spare.

Shoot, on top of that, a women doesn't want to put forth the effort to keep a proper gaming system running. I mean, think of all the crap you've most likely got running while on your system. Monitoring temps, fans, drivers, all kinds of crap. Shoot, keeping these sob nice and clean. Can't have a gaming rig get all dusted up.

It's cool though. I mainly want a 2nd GPU sitting around. I'll just pick up a cheap one, in case I ever have to send this one in for repairs or something. Well, maybe not cheap, more like, 650ish, since I already have the Nvidia drives on my system. Take my spare parts, and I'll make new ones









Back to work.

_Could you picture the OC you could get in this house?_



_Where do I sign up?_


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Lol.
> 
> I'm calling it my spare parts rig, but, I opened my mouth around my ol'lady, and she's wanting to claim it. So, maybe her rig from my spare parts. What she fails to understand is her Laptops new, and mine is about 4 years old, and abused (used it like a htpc for awhile). If she does take the spare parts rig, I'll have to replace this laptop. I can't live without having two systems anymore. It's too convenient, and, I don't want to do grunt work on my gaming rig. Beyond the fact, half of the reason for me keeping the parts, are back ups. As my spare parts rig, if I need to, I can pull parts as back up. If she takes it, I wont be able to just pull a part if I need a spare.
> 
> Shoot, on top of that, a women doesn't want to put forth the effort to keep a proper gaming system running. I mean, think of all the crap you've most likely got running while on your system. Monitoring temps, fans, drivers, all kinds of crap. Shoot, keeping these sob nice and clean. Can't have a gaming rig get all dusted up.
> 
> It's cool though. I mainly want a 2nd GPU sitting around. I'll just pick up a cheap one, in case I ever have to send this one in for repairs or something. Well, maybe not cheap, more like, 650ish, since I already have the Nvidia drives on my system. Take my spare parts, and I'll make new ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back to work.
> 
> _Could you picture the OC you could get in this house?_
> 
> 
> 
> _Where do I sign up?_


Lol...oh the old ladies!








And she has a new laptop...dang!!
I hate it when people installs a boatload of useless apps that takes all the RAM and then they ask why their PC is running slow!








Nice house...this reminds me of about 5 years ago when we had a huge snowstorm and I was shoveling on top of the car shelter!! I was at the same level as my room that was on the second floor


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Lol...oh the old ladies!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And she has a new laptop...dang!!
> I hate it when people installs a boatload of useless apps that takes all the RAM and then they ask why their PC is running slow!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice house...this reminds me of about 5 years ago when we had a huge snowstorm and I was shoveling on top of the car shelter!! I was at the same level as my room that was on the second floor


Yea, she plays "DDO". She'd use the computer, but, I'm not sure she'll up keep it.

I used to be really tight about what I had running on my system, however, with the ram modern systems have, it shouldn't be an issue. Shoot, I can't tell the difference between having nothing running, and all of my usual programs.

I have, HWmontior, Realtek HD Audio Manager, Nvidia Experience, Dolby Home Theater, MSE, Samsung Magic, Steam, EVGA Precision, Corsair Link, and Riva Tunner always running. No noticeable performance loss. Some times I'll have various web pages open, such as email, and youtube. I can game like that, no problem.

Now, 10 years ago, you'd feel it. Not today. These systems have too many resources available to them. You'd have to be doing some really hardcore stuff to really slow them down. Shoot, I've edited screen shots while running prime95 with very little performance loss.

*We once had a bad snow storm that left about 6 inches on the ground. =D


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, she plays "DDO". She'd use the computer, but, I'm not sure she'll up keep it.
> 
> I used to be really tight about what I had running on my system, however, with the ram modern systems have, it shouldn't be an issue. Shoot, I can't tell the difference between having nothing running, and all of my usual programs.
> 
> I have, HWmontior, Realtek HD Audio Manager, Nvidia Experience, Dolby Home Theater, MSE, Samsung Magic, Steam, EVGA Precision, Corsair Link, and Riva Tunner always running. No noticeable performance loss. Some times I'll have various web pages open, such as email, and youtube. I can game like that, no problem.
> 
> Now, 10 years ago, you'd feel it. Not today. These systems have too many resources available to them. You'd have to be doing some really hardcore stuff to really slow them down. Shoot, I've edited screen shots while running prime95 with very little performance loss.
> 
> *We once had a bad snow storm that left about 6 inches on the ground. =D


Yeah I know, I was running prime the other day and having multiple ff windows open but this is where multiple cores are useful as well!
Lol 6 inches we all go out and about doing our regular business! The snow banks are about 4-5 feet high here


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah I know, I was running prime the other day and having multiple ff windows open but this is where multiple cores are useful as well!
> Lol 6 inches we all go out and about doing our regular business! The snow banks are about 4-5 feet high here


When I first put my system together, I didn't realize Prime95 didn't close when you hit X. I thought I had closed it, and went about using my computer for about half an hour before realizing it was running in the background. Got to love multi-core CPUs.

Damned if I could imagine what those 8 core Intel will be like. I've heard of them coming out between 600 - 1,000... If it is closer to the 600 side (I'd be amazed)... I might be moving. Though, I might get over my bout of temporary mental ******ation, and get one of their lower priced 6 core. I'll have to see what affect mantle has first, if it does what it's supposed to, the higher power of intel cpus will mean less, however, it will still be where it's at. Games that AMD do great on, Intel still does fine. Games where intel exceeds, AMD can be a major fail. My main issue with moving to intel, is if the things I have problems with, are still problems... I really don't know. I mean, will skyrim still drop to *40 - 45 in some cities. Things like that. I just don't know. It would be an expensive lesson to learn otherwise.

*Having a high end GPU, really lets you tell where the CPU is holding you back in a game. Though, that may be game engine limitations, since I noticed it does the same thing in Oblivion. If that's the case, than the intel would be a waste for me.


----------



## Chargeit

Check this out. A nice and cheap monitor for keeping track of temps.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824254094

All you need is a VGA to DVI converter. Or which ever you need.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119041

I couldn't pass it up. Might not want to game on it but, my HWmonitor will be nice and happy there.


----------



## Mega Man

nice but you can always look at this !

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121004607232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121106592717?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

they also come as mountable !


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice but you can always look at this !
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121004607232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121106592717?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> they also come as mountable !


That is pretty cool. I also wanted it as a 2nd monitor for now. But, those are really cool. i hadn't seen them before.

*I've got a 2nd monitor hooked up to my laptop, and my gaming rig always feels gimped without one. =D Had I seen this first though, I'd of gotten it, simply because of the cost.

Have you tried one of those? It would serve my main purpose, of keeping track of temps. Now I'm considering canceling my order. Though, I really do want a 2nd monitor.

After looking at it closer, I'm not sure I like the idea of installing software from some random Hong kong company.







They still look cool.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Check this out. A nice and cheap monitor for keeping track of temps.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824254094
> 
> All you need is a VGA to DVI converter. Or which ever you need.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119041
> 
> I couldn't pass it up. Might not want to game on it but, my HWmonitor will be nice and happy there.


Nice! But I will keep my current monitor and buy a widescreen at least 27" for my primary display
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice but you can always look at this !
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121004607232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/121106592717?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
> 
> they also come as mountable !


That's pretty cool and cheap!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice! But I will keep my current monitor and buy a widescreen at least 27" for my primary display
> That's pretty cool and cheap!


Yea, I canceled the monitor. I'll stick to my plan of getting 2 more like the one I have.

I am really considering getting one of these though. I'm not sure about the program, but, it seems like it would be very useful. I just hope the program it comes with doesn't give me issues.

Reading about the device now.

http://www.techspot.com/review/704-lcdsysinfo-for-goverlay/

How do you like this quote?

"I can easily make sure my PC's temperatures are in a safe range at all times when overclocking, *and I can see how smooth my games are running"*.

And that's why I only watch fps when setting up a game, or if I have issues. Shouldn't you be able tell if your game is running smoothly? lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice! But I will keep my current monitor and buy a widescreen at least 27" for my primary display
> That's pretty cool and cheap!
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, I canceled the monitor. I'll stick to my plan of getting 2 more like the one I have.
> 
> I am really considering getting one of these though. I'm not sure about the program, but, it seems like it would be very useful. I just hope the program it comes with doesn't give me issues.
> 
> Reading about the device now.
> 
> http://www.techspot.com/review/704-lcdsysinfo-for-goverlay/
> 
> How do you like this quote?
> 
> "I can easily make sure my PC's temperatures are in a safe range at all times when overclocking, *and I can see how smooth my games are running"*.
> 
> And that's why I only watch fps when setting up a game, or if I have issues. Shouldn't you be able tell if your game is running smoothly? lol.
Click to expand...

haha i was about to link this too, honestly i keep meaning ot buy them, but i keep forgetting and like now i am just lazy @!


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I canceled the monitor. I'll stick to my plan of getting 2 more like the one I have.
> 
> I am really considering getting one of these though. I'm not sure about the program, but, it seems like it would be very useful. I just hope the program it comes with doesn't give me issues.
> 
> Reading about the device now.
> 
> http://www.techspot.com/review/704-lcdsysinfo-for-goverlay/
> 
> How do you like this quote?
> 
> "I can easily make sure my PC's temperatures are in a safe range at all times when overclocking, *and I can see how smooth my games are running"*.
> 
> And that's why I only watch fps when setting up a game, or if I have issues. Shouldn't you be able tell if your game is running smoothly? lol.


Yeah 2 monitors is great!








Lol in FSX we can't check out the FPS because it runs slow on any computer...all you want is fluid!


----------



## Chargeit

@Mega Man

Yea, I hope I don't forget about it myself. I made sure to favorite the website. I had been looking for something like that, more or less.

Will get it Friday, or when I get my refund from that monitor. Which ever comes first. I still think the monitor's a good deal, but, that thing will do what I really need right now, and I can use it once I have 3 monitors. That one I was looking at, wouldn't of fit on my table with 3 monitors... At least not without doing something crazy.

Now, I can't wait to get my hands on it. I'm not a huge fan of in game overlays, and, it looks cool. The coolness factor counts.

@GroovyMotion

Yea, those flight games have always required pretty beefy systems to run nicely. I'm also a fluid freak, though, there will always be farts, no matter how good your gear.

Oh, my system is running cool as hell, now that I've properly used LLC, and dropped my oc back down to 4.4. I played a game earlier, that usually hit 55c max, and never went past 42c. =D Now that's the kind of temps I want. I could get those temps I changed the fans from quiet to balanced/performance, or it were colder in the house. However, I can't stand excessive noise, and having the heater on keeps it too warm right now.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> @GroovyMotion
> 
> Yea, those flight games have always required pretty beefy systems to run nicely. I'm also a fluid freak, though, there will always be farts, no matter how good your gear.
> 
> Oh, my system is running cool as hell, now that I've properly used LLC, and dropped my oc back down to 4.4. I played a game earlier, that usually hit 55c max, and never went past 42c. =D Now that's the kind of temps I want. I could get those temps I changed the fans from quiet to balanced/performance, or it were colder in the house. However, I can't stand excessive noise, and having the heater on keeps it too warm right now.


Lol you can say that again!!
Nice!! I lowered my OC as well, I stick @ 4.2 but I could try 4.3 since I have the voltage stable
Yeah too much noise is not great!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> Hey guys, looking for help!
> 
> Upgraded to a 8320 for xmas, and I was hoping to overclock it.
> 
> I'm using a 990FXA-UD3 rev 3 (Wish I had just about any other mobo at this point)
> 
> I've installed an Enzotech cooler to the VRMs using Arctic MX-4 after removing the thermal tape that came with it, as well as screwing it down instead of using the spring-clips.
> 
> I also have 2 40mm fans ziptied together blowing on the VRMs and the CPU is being cooled by a Swiftech H220.
> 
> The CPU is running happily at 4620MHz at the moment, but during prime95 blend tests, the processor downvolts and downclocks for just a moment at a time.
> 
> The voltage drops to 1.020V from 1.512 and the clocks drop from 4.6 to ~1.4.
> 
> All power saving states are turned off, and I am not sure what to do at this point, since I was sure that using a better heatsink and putting a fan on the VRM's would solve this issue.
> 
> Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Put the thermal tape back on. I'd be willing to be you are getting warping around the VRM's and the center chips aren't making contact with the heatsink causing the throttling. I couldn't run paste due to that exact problem. Me and this board did months of battle before I finally solved the throttling issues.
> 
> Here's a pic of the VRMs with the fans ghetto-rigged: http://imgur.com/7dYthex


----------



## herericc

"Put the thermal tape back on. I'd be willing to be you are getting warping around the VRM's and the center chips aren't making contact with the heatsink causing the throttling. I couldn't run paste due to that exact problem. Me and this board did months of battle before I finally solved the throttling issues."

I might try that. As far as I can tell the VRM's are still flat though, and before I got this chip I was using a stock clocked FX-6100 which I doubt would heat them up enough to warp the board.

Have you actually got your UD3 running at it's overclocked speeds on prime with no dips in voltage or clock?

It's worth mentioning that I tried to change my bios to this one but it didnt make much/any difference from FC: http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=60828

Anyways, I'll give it a shot but if the guy with the crosshair V on kijiji responds I might just end up buying that and trying to sell this piece of crap haha.


----------



## Mega Man

just to note and save some cash the sabertooth is also a great board with an amazing power delivery system, myself and another have been able to get ~ 100mghz more out VS a CVFz and the other guy is a reviewer i can get you the linky in a min

here is that review, he also did a CVFz and i can try and find that if you are interested


----------



## slick2500

Just bought a GA-990FXA-UD3, still playing around with things, can't seem to unlock my Phenom II 550BE or get it to oc past 3.6Ghz.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just to note and save some cash the sabertooth is also a great board with an amazing power delivery system, myself and another have been able to get ~ 100mghz more out VS a CVFz and the other guy is a reviewer i can get you the linky in a min
> 
> here is that review, he also did a CVFz and i can try and find that if you are interested


Yeah the sabertooth was my second choice but it was 40$ more expensive when I bought my UD5. Oh well, I am satisfied with mine for now


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah the sabertooth was my second choice but it was 40$ more expensive when I bought my UD5. Oh well, I am satisfied with mine for now


I was also going to get the sabertooth. I got the UD5 because with mail in it was cheaper (30 - 40), and looks much cooler. Sorry, Asus needs to rethink that color scheme. The price helped, but, considering it was an upgrade, it wasn't as much of an issue as the look of it.

After updating this UD5 bios to add "APM" control, I'm happy with it. The one thing that sucks, is not being able to better fine tune your voltage. Still, it looks cool, and was cheaper. I'll take it.


----------



## Mega Man

i would be willing to bet if you buya sabertooth and bench your rig vs your rig with saberkitty

your chip in the kitty would out oc than in the giga, and i never minded the colors, works great for a military build


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herericc*
> 
> "Put the thermal tape back on. I'd be willing to be you are getting warping around the VRM's and the center chips aren't making contact with the heatsink causing the throttling. I couldn't run paste due to that exact problem. Me and this board did months of battle before I finally solved the throttling issues."
> 
> I might try that. As far as I can tell the VRM's are still flat though, and before I got this chip I was using a stock clocked FX-6100 which I doubt would heat them up enough to warp the board.
> 
> Have you actually got your UD3 running at it's overclocked speeds on prime with no dips in voltage or clock?
> 
> It's worth mentioning that I tried to change my bios to this one but it didnt make much/any difference from FC: http://forum.hwbot.org/showthread.php?t=60828
> 
> Anyways, I'll give it a shot but if the guy with the crosshair V on kijiji responds I might just end up buying that and trying to sell this piece of crap haha.


Yes, I have my 8350 running Prime at 4.7ghz @ 1.505v with no throttling of the CPU or voltages. To be completely honest I'm surprised it has held up as long as it has. I would recommend going for the Crosshair honestly. Its a much better board in every imaginable way. I was unable to get any beta BIOS to work they all froze up any time I tried to enter them I've been running FC since the beginning.


----------



## ginger_nuts

The Sabertooth should be a better board, especially since your spending more money.

Similar to the UD7 is better then the UD3.

Or at least this is what I think.

On a different note, when people show their 8350 @ 5Ghz, is that a stable usable 5 Ghz ?


----------



## M3TAl

Depends on what you use it for. I've got over 10 hours in BF4 now at 5.04 GHz still no problems. IBT AVX stable, NOPE. Never had one single problem with an 8320 for months either at 4.6 and it would fail IBT instantly. YMMV.

So finally got the Mosfet and NB blocks installed today... Turns out my board is warped just like a lot of people's around here. The Fujipoly thermal pad wasn't even making contact with the middle mosfets and I was even using screws instead of the pushpins. Really sucks... To try and counter act this I added a little extra thermal pad in the middle and tightened the block as much as possible.

Will continue keeping a close eye on mosfet temps with thermal probe on back of board where mosfets are. In BF4 at 1.52-1.55 V 5.04 GHz and a blower fan on VRM heatsink the back board temp was always 52-56C which should be perfectly fine.

While doing some suicide Cinebench runs the back of the board hit 96C at 1.71 V 5.33 GHz for about 10 seconds, dangerous I know. Think I'm done tempting fate, no more crazy Cinebench or other bench runs. I'll stick to gaming. Just wanted to see what was possible with this new loop.

Still working a giant air bubble out of the CPU block. This is the 3rd time to fill this thing up, every single time there's always a giant air bubble in the block. Leave it on overnight and it's always gone in the morning.

Think this cheap tubing is already having plasticizer issues







Turning yellowish green, you can kind of see it in some of the pics. Just going to live with it for now. Told myself I'm not spending anymore friggin money on this dang PC. Not willing to shell out the $40-50 for the premium tubing right now.

Even more bad news... One of these Crucial Ballistix isn't being recognized by Windows. No idea why. All I did was remove RAM to get mobo out of case. When everything was done I put them back in. So much crap ughhhh!



Spoiler: Warning: Watercooled Rig Pics













In that 3rd pic with the 4 90 Deg fittings. The tubing in the front is fresh from my leftover tubing. You can see how it looks clearer/cleaner than the one behind it.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Cool I might try over the weekend for a better clock. My 1055t also was stable at 4.3 Ghz, with any game or application I could use, but it would fail every stress tester.

Be it P95, IBT, OCCT etc










Mind you, running it there the temps where a little high in summer.

As for the air problem with your CPU block, have you tried turning the pump up full, 12v and leaving for a while ? This helped me get the air out my GPU block.


----------



## M3TAl

Both pumps are running full 12V, mind you they're both weak pumps. X2O 750 and Jingway DP-600. Both together in series get the job done though and is very quiet. Always leave the system running overnight and the bubble is gone. Tried all the other tricks, tilting case around and squeezing the tubing to build up pressure. None of it ever works. Only letting it run for hours dislodges it. It looks cool though and doesn't seem to affect temps at all.

Anybody have any idea with my ram issue? Never had this problem before. Task manager says I have 4 GB (it's 2x 4GB). Yet CPU-Z SPD tab recognizes both sticks... The Crucial MOD utility (for changing the LED's and other things) also recognizes both sticks. I'm at a loss.

Edit: also removed the shim from the GPU and getting ~10C better temps. I did a horrible job with the TIM when using the shim and the shim needed a sanding too but I was too exhausted and lazy to fix it the first time. With poor TIM job and shim was getting 50-55C in BF4. Just played and got 40-45C. This is on a 7870 XT at 1190 MHz 1.3 V.

Edit2: swapped the sticks around, seems to be fixed. All 8GB showing. That was weird.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> The Sabertooth should be a better board, especially since your spending more money.
> 
> Similar to the UD7 is better then the UD3.
> 
> Or at least this is what I think.
> 
> On a different note, when people show their 8350 @ 5Ghz, is that a stable usable 5 Ghz ?


that would depend on the person
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Both pumps are running full 12V, mind you they're both weak pumps. X2O 750 and Jingway DP-600. Both together in series get the job done though and is very quiet. Always leave the system running overnight and the bubble is gone. Tried all the other tricks, tilting case around and squeezing the tubing to build up pressure. None of it ever works. Only letting it run for hours dislodges it. It looks cool though and doesn't seem to affect temps at all.
> 
> Anybody have any idea with my ram issue? Never had this problem before. Task manager says I have 4 GB (it's 2x 4GB). Yet CPU-Z SPD tab recognizes both sticks... The Crucial MOD utility (for changing the LED's and other things) also recognizes both sticks. I'm at a loss.
> 
> Edit: also removed the shim from the GPU and getting ~10C better temps. I did a horrible job with the TIM when using the shim and the shim needed a sanding too but I was too exhausted and lazy to fix it the first time. With poor TIM job and shim was getting 50-55C in BF4. Just played and got 40-45C. This is on a 7870 XT at 1190 MHz 1.3 V.
> 
> Edit2: swapped the sticks around, seems to be fixed. All 8GB showing. That was weird.


sounds like a bad mount to me some times the pins just dont always make contact


----------



## slick2500

Can someone shed some light on this.


Board is a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Can someone shed some light on this.
> 
> 
> Board is a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0


You can post pictures though this site. When making a post, look to the upper right hand side. Select the icon that looks like mountains with a sun.



Not sure what your question is (temps?). I suggest seeing if the site has a owners club for that CPU.

This page I think.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1210911/official-amd-phenom-ii-x4-deneb-cpu-owners-club


----------



## GroovyMotion

Yeah I don't know what's wrong with the results, his min/max temps are pretty great


----------



## slick2500

Sorry maybe I should have been more specific, look at the frequencies that are displayed in Core Temp. AMD Overdrive shows Core 1 at ~3700Mhz and Core 2 at ~3100Mhz. I think I might have done something wrong. Maybe missed a setting in the bios.

And I posted the pic like that cuz it is kinda large and I know some sites have restrictions on image dimensions.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Sorry maybe I should have been more specific, look at the frequencies that are displayed in Core Temp. AMD Overdrive shows Core 1 at ~3700Mhz and Core 2 at ~3100Mhz. I think I might have done something wrong. Maybe missed a setting in the bios.
> 
> And I posted the pic like that cuz it is kinda large and I know some sites have restrictions on image dimensions.


It's throttling the 2nd core. The multiplier is 15 vs 18 on the other.

Does it do that under load? See what happens to them when running Prime95.

My guess is it's using the first one, and dropping the 2nd to use less power. If it's only doing that when Idle, I don't think it's a big deal. If it's doing it running prime95, than it might be an issue.

*I noticed that it said 2% usage on the one being throttled. I don't know. I'd run prime95, and see what it does.


----------



## Chargeit

Lame. I was about to buy one of those GoOverlay screens, and the damned things only accept paypal. Ugh, guess they just lost a sale. I've never set paypal up to allow for transfers from my bank. They need proof of my identity. The fun thing is, I can use whatever money I have in there all I want, I just can't personally put it in...

Damn, guess I can live without it. I could finish my paypal crap, but, I really don't feel like pulling out my scanner printer to do it. I'm sure it would take awhile even after that, to be verified. I'm a fickle person, and most likely would of had my eyes set on something else by then...

Like a Raspberry Pi for a old school emulator console...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Sorry maybe I should have been more specific, look at the frequencies that are displayed in Core Temp. AMD Overdrive shows Core 1 at ~3700Mhz and Core 2 at ~3100Mhz. I think I might have done something wrong. Maybe missed a setting in the bios.
> 
> And I posted the pic like that cuz it is kinda large and I know some sites have restrictions on image dimensions.


Think you were also attempting to unlock cores? Just FYI these UD3 boards (all revisions I assume) have a bad history of unlocking cores. I remember back in 2012 when these boards were still newish quite a few people tried unlocking cores unsuccessfully. Some had a chip that unlocked on an older/different board just fine, others switched and tried other boards with success. Gigabyte really seems to given us the shaft with unlocking on these boards.


----------



## smorch

I've owned my AMD FX-8350 and Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 3.0 for about 7 months now. Some good times and bad attempting to get high stable overclocks. Given my budget, I can't afford a custom water loop, but was able to buy the AIO Corsair H80i, which has done an admirable job cooling the FX-8350. I even replaced the stock vrm heatsink with a thermalright heatsink and attached to Fractal Design 40 mm fans to it, which helped keep the mosfets cooler.

Still, the UD3 rears its ugly head with vdroop/throttling at any overclocks higher than 4.5 GHz, using Prime95. It always starts in test 5 of Prime95 (small FFT). I've been able to overclock to 5.0 GHz, but I just haven't been able to run Prime95 without experiencing vdroop and consequently throttling (about every 20 seconds, once it starts).

On a strangely related note, we've had a cold snap in the last week here in the USA. Coincidentally, our central heater (and air conditioner) broken down, and we can't afford to fix it right now. So, we have 4 small space heaters spread out around the home. Unfortunately, they can't keep up with the sustained cold temperatures. Outside temperatures have ranged from 5 F (-15 C) to 42 F (5.5 C), whereas, even with the space heater on continuously, the temperatures in our house have ranged from 42 F (5.5 C) to a balmy 55 F (12.7 C)! We've been bundled up like we were going on a ski trip!









I decided to fire up my rig, and try running a 4.8 GHz profile I made; this was when the inside temp was around 42 F (5.5 C). To my pleasant surprise, I ran Prime95 (small FFT) at 4.8 GHz for an hour, and the cpu temp never went above 36 C, and the processor never throttle. It did however have some slight vdroop (again starting in test 5, and occurring about every 20 seconds). But the chilly ambient air made quite a difference, not only cooling the processor, but the entire rig. That put a smile on my face, until I started shivering again! LOL

It just goes to show you cold is friend to the computer!


----------



## M3TAl

Need statement from Gigabyte on this throttling junk! Seems basically every owner of a Rev 3 board who tries to get past ~4.5 GHz has throttling. Yet Rev 1.x has no such problems. I'm at a healthy 5.04 GHz no throttling. Neither my 970A or 990FXA ever throttled.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Need statement from Gigabyte on this throttling junk! Seems basically every owner of a Rev 3 board who tries to get past ~4.5 GHz has throttling. Yet Rev 1.x has no such problems. I'm at a healthy 5.04 GHz no throttling. Neither my 970A or 990FXA ever throttled.


I was able to get this 8320 stable at 4.6 with the most recent bios using my 990FXA-UD5. No Vdrop, or throttling. It's a rev 3. Out of the box however, it would of throttled it to hell, even at stock.

I think it's energy saving issues. Maybe mobo manufacturers are catching slack about needing to make their boards more environmentally friendly. I know I read something about them losing their energy star rating.

Check it out.

http://www.gigabyte.us/support-downloads/faq-page.aspx?fid=1429&pid=3891


----------



## M3TAl

Has anyone tried installing that crappy Easy Energy Saver program and enabling the features then disabling again? I remember seeing forum posts about this on older boards back in like the 700 series days.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Can someone shed some light on this.
> 
> 
> Board is a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0


too smalls
but yea load away ocn does not have any restrictions ( no pr0n or illegal though )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Lame. I was about to buy one of those GoOverlay screens, and the damned things only accept paypal. Ugh, guess they just lost a sale. I've never set paypal up to allow for transfers from my bank. They need proof of my identity. The fun thing is, I can use whatever money I have in there all I want, I just can't personally put it in...
> 
> Damn, guess I can live without it. I could finish my paypal crap, but, I really don't feel like pulling out my scanner printer to do it. I'm sure it would take awhile even after that, to be verified. I'm a fickle person, and most likely would of had my eyes set on something else by then...
> 
> Like a Raspberry Pi for a old school emulator console...


you ever try to check out as a guest ?? ( put in your cc info name and billing address iirc ) if not do it it does not take long they make 2 small deposits (total under a dollar ) and you have to let them know how much ( mine was 1 and 2 cents... )

with that said you have to verify your address to my knowledge but not your bank


----------



## Chargeit

The issue is a legal one. They aren't allowed to accept transfers from my bank without further proof of identity. My account is listed as verified.

I hadn't tried putting money in the paypal account before this. I get transfers from this one website through it. That has always worked fine, it just seems I can't put money in. I can still take money out.

I'll set it up later, and give proof of ID. I'm just being lazy about it, since my scanner printer is buried somewhere in my closet.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> The issue is a legal one. They aren't allowed to accept transfers from my bank without further proof of identity. My account is listed as verified.
> 
> I hadn't tried putting money in the paypal account before this. I get transfers from this one website through it. That has always worked fine, it just seems I can't put money in. I can still take money out.
> 
> I'll set it up later, and give proof of ID. I'm just being lazy about it, since my scanner printer is buried somewhere in my closet.


poke poke camera on phone poke poke !~


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> poke poke camera on phone poke poke !~


Damn, I didn't think of that. Hope they accept it like that.

*No go. No matter where I take the picture, there ends up being glare, and blurry as hell. My phone's camera sucks.

I'm really not that worried about it. It would take days for a transfer to go though. I'm not going to waste the money on it. I want to get more monitors sooner or later anyway. It would be cool if I could get it without hassle, but, I can't.

The thing is a good idea, and would be cool to have at times, but, I can live without it.


----------



## Chargeit

=D

I caught a 2nd monitor like the one I currently have on sale for $120. =D

I really wish I could get a 3rd right now, but, can't afford to part with $240 right now. I just couldn't resist at least picking up one.


----------



## Mega Man

nice dont worry if it is on sale, it will go on sale again


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nice dont worry if it is on sale, it will go on sale again


Yea.

It's cool. I'm just stoked I was able to get this one for the current price. I think they max out at $170, but, 150ish seems to be the common price. 120 is 10 bucks cheaper than I got my first one. It was on sale for $129 when I bought it. I hadn't seen the price drop under 150 in awhile.

Well, might not be doing multi-monitor gaming yet, but, at least I've got a 2nd monitor for temps, and doing 2nd monitor stuff.

To be honest, with only one 780, I most likely will have to cut the details down pretty good if gaming over 3 screens. Medium - high at best. The thing is, I didn't plan on going 3 monitor when I bought the card. SLI 760s, or 770s would of worked better for the setup. Oh well, monitors tend to be one of those things that stick around for awhile.

Time to crash out.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> =D
> 
> I caught a 2nd monitor like the one I currently have on sale for $120. =D
> 
> I really wish I could get a 3rd right now, but, can't afford to part with $240 right now. I just couldn't resist at least picking up one.


Nice! I wish I could buy a second one right now, have to wait a month when I do my tax return!


----------



## Mega Man

eww... you just reminded me about taxes...


----------



## GroovyMotion

lol...I know but in my case I will get back enough to purchase some upgrades


----------



## StrongForce

Ive read on another forum that the older revision of the GA-990FXA-UD3 can literally catch fire with the vishera CPU's, that guy scared me I was literally about to order one... uhh anyone heard anything about that ??

Also there is no windows 8 or 8.1 support apparently, and no chipset or drivers to download







, anyone had troubles with this board and windws 8-8.1 ??


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Ive read on another forum that the older revision of the GA-990FXA-UD3 can literally catch fire with the vishera CPU's, that guy scared me I was literally about to order one... uhh anyone heard anything about that ??
> 
> Also there is no windows 8 or 8.1 support apparently, and no chipset or drivers to download
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , anyone had troubles with this board and windws 8-8.1 ??


Oh plenty of us have had problems with the UD3 Rev 3 and 8 core CPU's not necessarily Vishera. With the issues mine had I could see it being a potential fire hazard.


----------



## StrongForce

MMh, also the guy said the rev4 supposedly fixed the problem.. but if you say it's not necessarly related to vishera then I doubt.. meh! plus It's probably not available at all in my local store..I'll try to call them just to ask though.

So which rev are you using now ? or you just RMA'ed your rev 3 ?


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Also there is no windows 8 or 8.1 support apparently, and no chipset or drivers to download
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , anyone had troubles with this board and windws 8-8.1 ??


yeah, win 8.x works great on UD3


----------



## MadGoat

i have used and own all the ud3 revs...

I can honestly say that Rev 3 is not great. Its not bad in the fact the it does stock well, but its not the Overclocker it should be and has a terrabad bios with buggy junk and APM issues.

However the rev 1.0, 1.1, 1.2 and 4.0 are all solid in my builds. The rev 4.0 being the best by far. I've used all boards with a vishera 8350 and Phenom II 1100t.

I am currently using the rev 4 with a 8350 @ 4.7ghz and its a great board and runs cool. I have the rev 3 working with the 1100t @ 4.1ghz and its running great. Rev 3 should have never been released let alone Vishera (or bulldozer for that matter) certified.

Sum it all up, If your getting a UD3... make sure it's a Rev 4.0. Otherwise look elsewhere.


----------



## StrongForce

sounds good thanks for the reply =) I'll try to get my hands on a rev 4 then ! mmh I don't live in the USA though it might be hard to find here.. I live in swiss.. I'll try to call my local shop see if they can order it, i bet they can't







.

The only one they have available is the basic one it doesn't say any revision..

hey what about the BIOS is it updated already on the rev4, do I need a CPU in the mobo in order to update in case I need to ? (I heard sometimes the cpu's aren't 100 supported without bios update).

And as for win 8 nice to hear, so it just work without drivers ? or I got to use the win7 ones, I guess I can figure that out !

EDIT : pretty useless shop, they say they don't have it in stock (the distributor) so they can't get it.. I'll have to find other ways.. uh they seem to have it in stock in the US lol.

Thanks again guys.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice! I wish I could buy a second one right now, have to wait a month when I do my tax return!


Yea, it was a good buy. Adding 2 more of my current monitors was going to cost at least 320. So, by buying this one for $40 less, that just cut that number down to 280, assuming I can't buy my 3rd at a good deal. $120 was as cheap as I've seen them. To be honest, anything $140 and under is a good price to buy one. I'll wait until I see for $140 or under again, to buy my 3rd.

For now, I'm just happy to have gotten a 2nd monitor for cheapish.

*Oh, one more thing. I was planning on getting that 16gb of 1866 ram I wanted. All of the ram was 10% off. I started to think, if rams so high priced and rare right now, why give discounts on it?
I'm now wondering if prices will be dropping again soon, and they are trying to sell what they can at the current insane prices.
I don't know, but, I do know, I'll wait longer on the ram. At worst, I missed out on saving like 10 bucks, at best, I'll save much more later on when I do get it.


----------



## ColonelPanic

Have anyone else here experienced hardware issues with these boards? Mine caught fire the other day when I turned my system on.








I'm RMA'ing it and will post as soon as I get it back.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> *Oh, one more thing. I was planning on getting that 16gb of 1866 ram I wanted. All of the ram was 10% off. I started to think, if rams so high priced and rare right now, why give discounts on it?
> I'm now wondering if prices will be dropping again soon, and they are trying to sell what they can at the current insane prices.
> I don't know, but, I do know, I'll wait longer on the ram. At worst, I missed out on saving like 10 bucks, at best, I'll save much more later on when I do get it.


Yeah RAM prices are like oil lol it varies a lot!

Speaking of OC I got my first BSOD last night @ 4.3Ghz with multi @ 21 and FSB @205mhz









also, how come in stock form with all the green stuff runnng that my voltage ranges from 0.840v to 1.404v ?!


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColonelPanic*
> 
> Have anyone else here experienced hardware issues with these boards? Mine caught fire the other day when I turned my system on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm RMA'ing it and will post as soon as I get it back.


I'am staying away from that board thats confirmed now aha, unless a REV 4 I'll try to contact online resellers see if they can get it... seems like they all out of stock or something.

PS: shouldn'nt Gigabyte remove these boards from the stores already ?? and replace with Rev4 ***... risk of burning your house and they still sell it. wow, perhaps I should just boycott Gigabyte for that..


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah RAM prices are like oil lol it varies a lot!
> 
> Speaking of OC I got my first BSOD last night @ 4.3Ghz with multi @ 21 and FSB @205mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also, how come in stock form with all the green stuff runnng that my voltage ranges from 0.840v to 1.404v ?!


If I were you, I'd restart my OC fresh, set LLC to high, and just oc through multiplier. I really think you should start off at +0.100V @ 4.4. If you pass that, without too much heat move up. If you fail, even raise voltage by +0.025, or drop multiplier.

Well, when you have the power saving features enabled, it drops volts at times to save power.

I keep all of mine running, expect c6, or c1. Can't remember which. I leave the one on that allows your system to disable cores. The other one I disable. I also disable "APM", since that one tries to keep you at the "TDP" , Thermal Design Power. APM will throttle you even when under stress.

Some people disable all of the green settings, or at least when stress testing. I stress test how I plan on running 24/7. It works fine for me.

My main reason for running the green settings I do, is system health. I don't want my system running wide open the whole time it's running.

I do have a program, that allows me to park, or unpark cores as I need them. It seems to have little affect in the games I play, since none tend to use more than 1 - 4 cores, and the system will only park up to 3 cores from what I've seen.


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> sounds good thanks for the reply =) I'll try to get my hands on a rev 4 then ! mmh I don't live in the USA though it might be hard to find here.. I live in swiss.. I'll try to call my local shop see if they can order it, i bet they can't
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> The only one they have available is the basic one it doesn't say any revision..
> 
> hey what about the BIOS is it updated already on the rev4, do I need a CPU in the mobo in order to update in case I need to ? (I heard sometimes the cpu's aren't 100 supported without bios update).
> 
> And as for win 8 nice to hear, so it just work without drivers ? or I got to use the win7 ones, I guess I can figure that out !
> 
> EDIT : pretty useless shop, they say they don't have it in stock (the distributor) so they can't get it.. I'll have to find other ways.. uh they seem to have it in stock in the US lol.
> 
> Thanks again guys.


When I got mine it was already loaded with the most recent bios.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> I'am staying away from that board thats confirmed now aha, unless a REV 4 I'll try to contact online resellers see if they can get it... seems like they all out of stock or something.
> 
> PS: shouldn'nt Gigabyte remove these boards from the stores already ?? and replace with Rev4 ***... risk of burning your house and they still sell it. wow, perhaps I should just boycott Gigabyte for that..


Yikes that's bad!! This is major RMA!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> I'am staying away from that board thats confirmed now aha, unless a REV 4 I'll try to contact online resellers see if they can get it... seems like they all out of stock or something.
> 
> PS: shouldn'nt Gigabyte remove these boards from the stores already ?? and replace with Rev4 ***... risk of burning your house and they still sell it. wow, perhaps I should just boycott Gigabyte for that..


http://www.techspot.com/news/46818-gigabyte-issues-bios-update-for-fire-prone-motherboards.html

This is why these damned mobo throttle the hell out of you out of the box. It seems like the issue started before Rev 3. I had assumed it had to do with energy star ratings.

So, it seems like they know their boards are prone to catching on fire, yet still put them out without fixing it. Cost of recall, vs fixing.

I'm sure this could happen with other boards as well, but, I think this will be the last GB mobo / product I get. Asus next time around.

Catching on fire really explains a lot about the issues people have with GB boards, such as out of the box throttling, and not allowing for more minute voltage changes.


----------



## simsim44

You guys have been talking of the UD-3, I have been waiting a month for the UD-7 to be available, and I have checked a lot, I did notice the 3 and 5's were also unavailable sporadically, I was wondering if there were problems getting here (USA) or was there issues with the boards. I got the UD-7 this week, so I haven't check in a few days to see if the others are still unavailable. seems that the holiday rush put thing off balance as far as supply and demand goes


----------



## ginger_nuts

Maybe it is a Gigabyte thing. Here in Australia the UD3 has been on and off the shelves a lot in the last 6 months or so.

But the UD7 has been on the shelves the entire time, the UD5 are just harder to find.


----------



## M3TAl

On a side note I tested every LLC setting except Auto on a fixed clock and vcore. Very interesting findings. For some reason it affects the IBT GFlops depending on LLC. Oh and Extreme LLC SUCKS. I'll have to put all the info in a spreadsheet and post it on here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> http://www.techspot.com/news/46818-gigabyte-issues-bios-update-for-fire-prone-motherboards.html
> 
> This is why these damned mobo throttle the hell out of you out of the box. It seems like the issue started before Rev 3. I had assumed it had to do with energy star ratings.
> 
> So, it seems like they know their boards are prone to catching on fire, yet still put them out without fixing it. Cost of recall, vs fixing.
> 
> I'm sure this could happen with other boards as well, but, I think this will be the last GB mobo / product I get. Asus next time around.
> 
> Catching on fire really explains a lot about the issues people have with GB boards, such as out of the box throttling, and not allowing for more minute voltage changes.


Yes the boards do need some actual revision on the VRM side of things (Gigabyte where is your digital stuff to compete with Asus?) but if you take proper precautions it's fine. They're not going to design a whole new board for a dead end socket like AM3+, it would be a waste of time and money.

Even though Asus has some very nice boards I'll be staying away from them due to all the RMA horror stories (such as this is RMA # 8 my board still doesn't work right, etc). After seeing how Gigabyte handled my friend's RMA of a 970A-UD3 with blown VRM, I'll be staying with Gigabyte. They gave him no hassle Advanced RMA.

Quick and easy. He called them up said VRM is blown, do you guys cover that? Yes. Do you do Advanced RMA? Yes. We will send you a form to send back to us, give your shipping and billing address. Not to mention that call was at like 4:58 PM (they close at 5 PM). He got the new board yesterday, now he's just finishing up the custom loop tonight and will boot it up after leak testing.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> On a side note I tested every LLC setting except Auto on a fixed clock and vcore. Very interesting findings. For some reason it affects the IBT GFlops depending on LLC. Oh and Extreme LLC SUCKS. I'll have to put all the info in a spreadsheet and post it on here.
> Yes the boards do need some actual revision on the VRM side of things (Gigabyte where is your digital stuff to compete with Asus?) but if you take proper precautions it's fine. They're not going to design a whole new board for a dead end socket like AM3+, it would be a waste of time and money.
> 
> Even though Asus has some very nice boards I'll be staying away from them due to all the RMA horror stories (such as this is RMA # 8 my board still doesn't work right, etc). After seeing how Gigabyte handled my friend's RMA of a 970A-UD3 with blown VRM, I'll be staying with Gigabyte. They gave him no hassle Advanced RMA.
> 
> Quick and easy. He called them up said VRM is blown, do you guys cover that? Yes. Do you do Advanced RMA? Yes. We will send you a form to send back to us, give your shipping and billing address. Not to mention that call was at like 4:58 PM (they close at 5 PM). He got the new board yesterday, now he's just finishing up the custom loop tonight and will boot it up after leak testing.


He didn't test it prior to water cooling it? I would at least put on a makeshift bench and test it first to be sure that it will boot.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> If I were you, I'd restart my OC fresh, set LLC to high, and just oc through multiplier. I really think you should start off at +0.100V @ 4.4. If you pass that, without too much heat move up. If you fail, even raise voltage by +0.025, or drop multiplier.
> 
> Well, when you have the power saving features enabled, it drops volts at times to save power.
> 
> I keep all of mine running, expect c6, or c1. Can't remember which. I leave the one on that allows your system to disable cores. The other one I disable. I also disable "APM", since that one tries to keep you at the "TDP" , Thermal Design Power. APM will throttle you even when under stress.
> 
> Some people disable all of the green settings, or at least when stress testing. I stress test how I plan on running 24/7. It works fine for me.
> 
> My main reason for running the green settings I do, is system health. I don't want my system running wide open the whole time it's running.
> 
> I do have a program, that allows me to park, or unpark cores as I need them. It seems to have little affect in the games I play, since none tend to use more than 1 - 4 cores, and the system will only park up to 3 cores from what I've seen.


Yup...I'll start from scratch. But the green stuff I have read so many discrepencies, some say the CnQ doesn't need to be OFF, and same for HPC.
aha just read a bit, CnQ might actually be the culprit of my voltage discrepencies when it's leaved ON!
And HPC or High Performance Computing prevents the system from lowering the cpu frequency while in a halt state...so leaving it ON makes sense!

Those are all assumptions based on the definitions, if someone has more input regarding these please let me know


----------



## M3TAl

Don't think he really has anything to test with, not even the stock AMD cooler. I would of tested the board first too.


----------



## Chargeit

@M3TAI - It's good to know they covered his blown VRM. I didn't expect that to happen.

I'll see. For obvious reasons, I won't be getting another AM3+ board. But, when I do move to a new CPU, I'll have to consider what you said. I am thinking however, that they were so easy going about the RMA, because they already knew their boards VRM have issues.

@GroovyMotion - I haven't had issues with the voltage dropping with CnQ on, and HPC off.

Are you talking about your voltage dropping while at load, or when idle? At idle that's fine. If you're worried about that, simply put your computer into High Performance power settings thought windows. Set your min/max state to 100%. When you don't need it, set it back to balanced.

As for dropping at load, setting LLC to high fixed that for me. It does drop, but rarely, and only 0.010V at the most when running prime95.

I've been able to get what seems to be a stable OC with most of my power saving features on. No throttling, or Vdrop when under load, just when idle, or doing lite tasks, such as web browsing, youtube. I don't think you want your system running wide open when doing these things.

***Oh, and my 2nd monitor... Is getting spouse jacked. I'm going to give it to my ol'lady for the rig I'm building her. So, I'm back to square one on that.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> @GroovyMotion - I haven't had issues with the voltage dropping with CnQ on, and HPC off.
> 
> Are you talking about your voltage dropping while at load, or when idle? At idle that's fine. If you're worried about that, simply put your computer into High Performance power settings thought windows. Set your min/max state to 100%. When you don't need it, set it back to balanced.
> 
> As for dropping at load, setting LLC to high fixed that for me. It does drop, but rarely, and only 0.010V at the most when running prime95.
> 
> I've been able to get what seems to be a stable OC with most of my power saving features on. No throttling, or Vdrop when under load, just when idle, or doing lite tasks, such as web browsing, youtube. I don't think you want your system running wide open when doing these things.
> 
> ***Oh, and my 2nd monitor... Is getting spouse jacked. I'm going to give it to my ol'lady for the rig I'm building her. So, I'm back to square one on that.


Nah I am not worried, was just wondering if it's normal but it's obviously normal








0.010v is very little, I have a lot more than that even with mild OC! But I will do some comparisons with the LLC and the green stuff

That sux about your second monitor!


----------



## GroovyMotion

Ok I did some more testing and raising the multi alone doesn't work past 4.2ghz! Tried +0.1v, +0.150v and +0.250v and it would not post. So,
I went back to the 'ol trick of setting the FSB much higher and lower the multiplier and right now @ 4.365Ghz it is pretty darn stable and with vcore at between 1.392 and 1.404v!








I tried running @ 4.5 with same stable vcore but the cpu temp was 7C higher so there is no benefit for 135mhz!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nah I am not worried, was just wondering if it's normal but it's obviously normal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 0.010v is very little, I have a lot more than that even with mild OC! But I will do some comparisons with the LLC and the green stuff
> 
> That sux about your second monitor!


Yea, she didn't really jack it, but, I got over my temporary bout of mental ******ation, and realized I'd lose it sooner or later anyway. It doesn't take a psychic to realize that when it comes time to get a monitor for the system I'm making her, where that monitor's going to come from if I have 2 or 3 of them sitting in here.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Ok I did some more testing and raising the multi alone doesn't work past 4.2ghz! Tried +0.1v, +0.150v and +0.250v and it would not post. So,
> I went back to the 'ol trick of setting the FSB much higher and lower the multiplier and right now @ 4.365Ghz it is pretty darn stable and with vcore at between 1.392 and 1.404v!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried running @ 4.5 with same stable vcore but the cpu temp was 7C higher so there is no benefit for 135mhz!


Are you messing with anything else? The main time I've had my system not post, was when messing with ram speeds, or, things that affect the ram speed.

I'm wondering if you're adjusting the BCLK clock, instead of multiplier. Leave teh BCLK clock at 200. If you adjust the BCLK clock, that will also increase other things, such as your ram. That could be the reason it isn't posting.

When I say multiplier, I mean the "CPU Clock Ratio". That and voltage should do it. Set your ram to XMP profile for now, or, leave it at base while testing for stability.


----------



## M3TAl

7C just from a 100-150 MHz clock increase? Don't think that's been my experience. Only get a temp increase like that from more voltage usually.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Are you messing with anything else? The main time I've had my system not post, was when messing with ram speeds, or, things that affect the ram speed.
> 
> I'm wondering if you're adjusting the BCLK clock, instead of multiplier. Leave teh BCLK clock at 200. If you adjust the BCLK clock, that will also increase other things, such as your ram. That could be the reason it isn't posting.
> 
> When I say multiplier, I mean the "CPU Clock Ratio". That and voltage should do it. Set your ram to XMP profile for now, or, leave it at base while testing for stability.


No, like I said, I was just raising the multiplier...it refuses to post beyond 22x. I had my RAM to XMP profile, this is the only thing I could see but it was still very close to default speed of 1600
So far I am very satisfied with the settings I have of 236Mhz FSB (BCLK) withg a multiplier of 18.5, [email protected] and [email protected] and vcore +0.150 it's extremely stable and temps are all great.

@M3TAI, I ran prime 95 for 10min on each settings and at 4.3 the cpu temp was 7C hotter...what can I say!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> No, like I said, I was just raising the multiplier...it refuses to post beyond 22x. I had my RAM to XMP profile, this is the only thing I could see but it was still very close to default speed of 1600
> So far I am very satisfied with the settings I have of 236Mhz FSB (BCLK) withg a multiplier of 18.5, [email protected] and [email protected] and vcore +0.150 it's extremely stable and temps are all great.
> 
> @M3TAI, I ran prime 95 for 10min on each settings and at 4.3 the cpu temp was 7C hotter...what can I say!


I don't know man.

You should try to run prime95 for more than 10 min. I like at least 2 hour, but, 4 preferred. It's a good idea to stress test, at least as long as you would stress you system in normal usage. My current OC, I only did 2 hours, but, haven't had any issues. I'll most likely come back later and do 4. Some like 24 hours, but, I find that excessive. I have had tests fail 5 or 6 hours into a stress test though. Still a good 2 - 4 hours should be enough to call it stable, assuming you don't end up with issues.

I just can't help but wonder why your system won't post off of a Multiplier / voltage oc past 4.2. That chip/mobo should be able to handle that without issue. At least I'd think.

Someone with more experience have any idea about that?


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> On a side note I tested every LLC setting except Auto on a fixed clock and vcore. Very interesting findings. For some reason it affects the IBT GFlops depending on LLC. Oh and Extreme LLC SUCKS. I'll have to put all the info in a spreadsheet and post it on here.
> Yes the boards do need some actual revision on the VRM side of things (Gigabyte where is your digital stuff to compete with Asus?) but if you take proper precautions it's fine. They're not going to design a whole new board for a dead end socket like AM3+, it would be a waste of time and money.
> 
> Even though Asus has some very nice boards I'll be staying away from them due to all the RMA horror stories (such as this is RMA # 8 my board still doesn't work right, etc). After seeing how Gigabyte handled my friend's RMA of a 970A-UD3 with blown VRM, I'll be staying with Gigabyte. They gave him no hassle Advanced RMA.
> 
> Quick and easy. He called them up said VRM is blown, do you guys cover that? Yes. Do you do Advanced RMA? Yes. We will send you a form to send back to us, give your shipping and billing address. Not to mention that call was at like 4:58 PM (they close at 5 PM). He got the new board yesterday, now he's just finishing up the custom loop tonight and will boot it up after leak testing.


Boo ! SO no GB, no Asus, whats left of cheap for decent overclocking ?? asus, msi mmh ..I've also read somewhere to avoid the MSI just because their previous board had similar troubles.. leaves with little choice.. this is the local shop I go to usually : http://www.prodimex.ch/pGroupe.aspx?FAM=COMPOSANTS&ONG=CARTES+MERES&GRP=AMD+SOCKET+AM3 .. not so much choice and according to : http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database this page those 2 asrock only have 4+1 phase count.. I guess my best bet is : MSI 990FXA-GD65 at the moment.. gonna see if there is a thread about it.. or perhaps some of you know already if it's worth investing.

By the way I saw the Asrock extreme 9 looks awesome, but 200 bucks, and I'm certainly not gonna invest so much for a 160 (current swiss price of this cpu) bucksCPU.. altought I would if the socket wasn't "dead" gee.., and the more I invest the closer I get to a possible haswell LOL, since I'm gonna do mainly gaming with it.. that's where I would go if I had bit more extra cash.


----------



## M3TAl

I made a Google Spreadsheet with my LLC findings. Hopefully I'm able to figure out how to embed it in this post for all to see.

This is on 990FXA-UD3 Rev.1.1 FX-8350 4837.5 MHz 1.475 V set in BIOS. Every LLC except Auto. Ran 10 runs of IBT AVX Standard. Ambient was 70F for every test except Medium LLC which was 69F. All case/radiator fans were run at 100% for every test.

I've always used Medium LLC, seems it gives a little more heat but most stability? I ran Medium LLC test twice both times the GFlops were in the 89-90's and the temps were the same.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Aj3C6kYQtXq_dHN4SWgwVVVuZWJWOHZucTMxVWl3aFE&output=html&widget=true


----------



## Chargeit

Looks like you found your sweet spot there.

I'm going to have to run some tests myself now using IBT. Tomorrow maybe.


----------



## M3TAl

Extreme is good in theory... The vcore is very low during idle and low usage but at full load it cranks all the way up to about the same as the other LLC's. Only problem is it kept failing IBT even when at 1.536 V.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Are you messing with anything else? The main time I've had my system not post, was when messing with ram speeds, or, things that affect the ram speed.
> 
> I'm wondering if you're adjusting the BCLK clock, instead of multiplier. Leave teh BCLK clock at 200. If you adjust the BCLK clock, that will also increase other things, such as your ram. That could be the reason it isn't posting.
> 
> When I say multiplier, I mean the "CPU Clock Ratio". That and voltage should do it. Set your ram to XMP profile for now, or, leave it at base while testing for stability.
> 
> 
> 
> No, like I said, I was just raising the multiplier...it refuses to post beyond 22x. I had my RAM to XMP profile, this is the only thing I could see but it was still very close to default speed of 1600
> So far I am very satisfied with the settings I have of 236Mhz FSB (BCLK) withg a multiplier of 18.5, [email protected] and [email protected] and vcore +0.150 it's extremely stable and temps are all great.
> 
> @M3TAI, I ran prime 95 for 10min on each settings and at 4.3 the cpu temp was 7C hotter...what can I say!
Click to expand...

i would be willing to bet something else is not right
do you have screenshots !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Extreme is good in theory... The vcore is very low during idle and low usage but at full load it cranks all the way up to about the same as the other LLC's. Only problem is it kept failing IBT even when at 1.536 V.


how so ? if you use offset and keep on powersaving features your vcore is much much lower, extreme is useless unless you are on L2N or phase change


----------



## M3TAl

Because it failed IBT at higher load voltages than say Regular and Medium. Not sure what you mean by offset. The Rev 1.1 you set the vcore, in this case 1.475, and that's it.

It's all there in the spreadsheet.

Don't see the benefit of Extreme for LN2/Phase either. All it does is keep vcore really low on idle and then raises it to about same values as the other LLC's on load. 1.475 in BIOS with Extreme got 1.440-1.504 V. A much wider range than the other LLC's and drops below the actual set voltage.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I don't know man.
> 
> You should try to run prime95 for more than 10 min. I like at least 2 hour, but, 4 preferred. It's a good idea to stress test, at least as long as you would stress you system in normal usage. My current OC, I only did 2 hours, but, haven't had any issues. I'll most likely come back later and do 4. Some like 24 hours, but, I find that excessive. I have had tests fail 5 or 6 hours into a stress test though. Still a good 2 - 4 hours should be enough to call it stable, assuming you don't end up with issues.
> 
> I just can't help but wonder why your system won't post off of a Multiplier / voltage oc past 4.2. That chip/mobo should be able to handle that without issue. At least I'd think.
> 
> Someone with more experience have any idea about that?


Yeah...on another forum I was told I should get an RMA for my board, I don't know...but I do have a 6300 CPU not the 8320 that you guys have, I don't know if this matters. But honestly, for the price I paid I am glad with 4.3x this is a lot better than the stock 3.5 and I am still way behind an Haswell in regards to FSX!


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i would be willing to bet something else is not right
> do you have screenshots !


Here is @ 4.5, @ 4.365 the CPU was registering a max of 48C


----------



## Mega Man

sorry i ment of bios


----------



## slick2500

Got my FX 6300 this morning. And so far I'm sitting at 4720Mhz at 1.45v. Gonna run some OCCT and see what happens.


----------



## reeven

9.33strapbug.jpg 799k .jpg file

i bought an UD7, fx8350,put my corsair2x2gb D9GTR in it, 1600 ddr 15 6 6 7 1.8v, working just fine.
Then wanted to test 9.33 strap, 1866mhz, its not booting there,an msg with overclock fail appear, and in bios i see that 9.33 1866mhz strap is in fact 2140mhz real.
Gigabyte bios bug or what?
put elpida hyper 8gb , 2x4gb in it, no post at 1866 strap, mean 2140 mhz .

Put back my FXA UD3, same problem, identical. UD3 is 4.0, UD7 is v3.0( written on pcb).
What could be the cause of that? 9.33 strap 1866 is 2140mhz .


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Got my FX 6300 this morning. And so far I'm sitting at 4720Mhz at 1.45v. Gonna run some OCCT and see what happens.


Yikes! what kind of cooling you got? And which board model? Highest I got to is 4.5 stable but it's running over 55C (cpu)


----------



## slick2500

I have a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme with push pull fan setup. Ga990FXA-UD3 Rev 4.0 It was nowhere near stable at those settings. At 4.6 it got up to 56*

Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away........


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> I have a Thermalright Ultra 120 Extreme with push pull fan setup. Ga990FXA-UD3 Rev 4.0 It was nowhere near stable at those settings. At 4.6 it got up to 56*
> 
> Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away........


So whats the max temp recommended for this cheap ?

I might just go for a UD5 it's available at my local store wonder how it performs.. does anyone know if the basic BIOS handles the FX 6300 or the FX 8320 altought if I get the UD5 probably gonna get the FX 8320..









PS if you have BF4 would be nice to see CPU usage benchmark in a 64 man server! curious about this chip OC ability, sounds awesome for a 120$ cpu damn.

Also I'm pretty sure an amd 8 core never hits 100% iny any core especialyl overclocked I remember seeing a benchmark about it but it's always nice to see other sources.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> 9.33strapbug.jpg 799k .jpg file
> 
> i bought an UD7, fx8350,put my corsair2x2gb D9GTR in it, 1600 ddr 15 6 6 7 1.8v, working just fine.
> Then wanted to test 9.33 strap, 1866mhz, its not booting there,an msg with overclock fail appear, and in bios i see that 9.33 1866mhz strap is in fact 2140mhz real.
> Gigabyte bios bug or what?
> put elpida hyper 8gb , 2x4gb in it, no post at 1866 strap, mean 2140 mhz .
> 
> Put back my FXA UD3, same problem, identical. UD3 is 4.0, UD7 is v3.0( written on pcb).
> What could be the cause of that? 9.33 strap 1866 is 2140mhz .


Have to ask is your FSB at 200 or 229-230? Haven't had this problem on Rev 1.1 UD3's.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> So whats the max temp recommended for this cheap ?
> 
> I might just go for a UD5 it's available at my local store wonder how it performs.. does anyone know if the basic BIOS handles the FX 6300 or the FX 8320 altought if I get the UD5 probably gonna get the FX 8320..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS if you have BF4 would be nice to see CPU usage benchmark in a 64 man server! curious about this chip OC ability, sounds awesome for a 120$ cpu damn.
> 
> Also I'm pretty sure an amd 8 core never hits 100% iny any core especialyl overclocked I remember seeing a benchmark about it but it's always nice to see other sources.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116899

and a cheap mobo.

Unless you're saving a lot. I'd take the i5 and cheaper mobo, over a fx8320, and expensive mobo.

FX 8320 $160 / UD5 $175 = $335

Haswell i5 $235 / ($100 mobo) = $335

Trust me, CPU matters a lot more than people like to admit, and you're min fps will suffer using these cpu. I'm not sure if mantle will help or not, but, I doubt it will do enough.

I'm going to be dropping my 8320 like a bad habit sooner or later. It's good for what it is, but, what's the point in spending intel money, and ending up with AMD? I know I've spent tons of cash trying to make up for taking this 8320, over a i5. I've even got a GTX 780, which really highlights this CPU's short comings.

AMD are good on a budget, but, if you can afford it, just go with intel. You'll have to oc the hell out of the 8320, to come close to what that i5 will do at stock.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116899
> 
> and a cheap mobo.
> 
> Unless you're saving a lot. I'd take the i5 and cheaper mobo, over a fx8320, and expensive mobo.
> 
> FX 8320 $160 / UD5 $175 = $335
> 
> Haswell i5 $235 / ($100 mobo) = $335
> 
> Trust me, CPU matters a lot more than people like to admit, and you're min fps will suffer using these cpu. I'm not sure if mantle will help or not, but, I doubt it will do enough.
> 
> I'm going to be dropping my 8320 like a bad habit sooner or later. It's good for what it is, but, what's the point in spending intel money, and ending up with AMD? I know I've spent tons of cash trying to make up for taking this 8320, over a i5. I've even got a GTX 780, which really highlights this CPU's short comings.
> 
> AMD are good on a budget, but, if you can afford it, just go with intel. You'll have to oc the hell out of the 8320, to come close to what that i5 will do at stock.


I know...I am at almost 4.5Ghz and even some Ivy Bridge owns me in FSX benchmark...unfortunately, many apps are still single-core and we can't compete with that. I will stick to my cpu/mobo as I just got them and for cheap but once I get some $$$ I am definitely going with a Haswell.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> I know...I am at almost 4.5Ghz and even some Ivy Bridge owns me in FSX benchmark...unfortunately, many apps are still single-core and we can't compete with that. I will stick to my cpu/mobo as I just got them and for cheap but once I get some $$$ I am definitely going with a Haswell.


Yea, the issue I have is many games I play, are single core, or CPU heavy. Skyrim, Total war, Civ 5, things like that.

Man, I was playing "Neverwinter Nights", a game from 2002, and I had a spot where I dropped fps into the 20's. No crap. The freaking 20's. Now, it was a module , and very extreme, lots of AI and stuff, but still. This shouldn't be a issue. I mean, 2002... I can't keep 60 fps, or at least close.

The problem is, no matter the game, if a spot is CPU heavy, the fps will drop hard.

Now, I can't help but question what would of happened on a i5. I'm sure that spot would dropped FPS, but, I'm willing to bet it would of dropped to 40 -50 at the most.

My birthday is coming up next month. I've been considering buying myself a i5 (or 7) for it.

This 8320 does well enough, when it does well, but, when it sucks, it sucks.









I'm not sure how mantle will affect next gen games, but, if it benefits AMD, than it will benefit intel more.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> 9.33strapbug.jpg 799k .jpg file
> 
> i bought an UD7, fx8350,put my corsair2x2gb D9GTR in it, 1600 ddr 15 6 6 7 1.8v, working just fine.
> Then wanted to test 9.33 strap, 1866mhz, its not booting there,an msg with overclock fail appear, and in bios i see that 9.33 1866mhz strap is in fact 2140mhz real.
> Gigabyte bios bug or what?
> put elpida hyper 8gb , 2x4gb in it, no post at 1866 strap, mean 2140 mhz .
> 
> Put back my FXA UD3, same problem, identical. UD3 is 4.0, UD7 is v3.0( written on pcb).
> What could be the cause of that? 9.33 strap 1866 is 2140mhz .


can we see screens of your bios when this happens please, i can run 1600/1866/2133 without issue and i do run 300fsb* 2400 (8x) ddr3


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> So whats the max temp recommended for this cheap ?
> 
> I might just go for a UD5 it's available at my local store wonder how it performs.. does anyone know if the basic BIOS handles the FX 6300 or the FX 8320 altought if I get the UD5 probably gonna get the FX 8320..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS if you have BF4 would be nice to see CPU usage benchmark in a 64 man server! curious about this chip OC ability, sounds awesome for a 120$ cpu damn.
> 
> Also I'm pretty sure an amd 8 core never hits 100% iny any core especialyl overclocked I remember seeing a benchmark about it but it's always nice to see other sources.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116899
> 
> and a cheap mobo.
> 
> Unless you're saving a lot. I'd take the i5 and cheaper mobo, over a fx8320, and expensive mobo.
> 
> FX 8320 $160 / UD5 $175 = $335
> 
> Haswell i5 $235 / ($100 mobo) = $335
> 
> Trust me, CPU matters a lot more than people like to admit, and you're min fps will suffer using these cpu. I'm not sure if mantle will help or not, but, I doubt it will do enough.
> 
> I'm going to be dropping my 8320 like a bad habit sooner or later. It's good for what it is, but, what's the point in spending intel money, and ending up with AMD? I know I've spent tons of cash trying to make up for taking this 8320, over a i5. I've even got a GTX 780, which really highlights this CPU's short comings.
> 
> AMD are good on a budget, but, if you can afford it, just go with intel. You'll have to oc the hell out of the 8320, to come close to what that i5 will do at stock.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> I know...I am at almost 4.5Ghz and even some Ivy Bridge owns me in FSX benchmark...unfortunately, many apps are still single-core and we can't compete with that. I will stick to my cpu/mobo as I just got them and for cheap but once I get some $$$ I am definitely going with a Haswell.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, the issue I have is many games I play, are single core, or CPU heavy. Skyrim, Total war, Civ 5, things like that.
> 
> Man, I was playing "Neverwinter Nights", a game from 2002, and I had a spot where I dropped fps into the 20's. No crap. The freaking 20's. Now, it was a module , and very extreme, lots of AI and stuff, but still. This shouldn't be a issue. I mean, 2002... I can't keep 60 fps, or at least close.
> 
> The problem is, no matter the game, if a spot is CPU heavy, the fps will drop hard.
> 
> Now, I can't help but question what would of happened on a i5. I'm sure that spot would dropped FPS, but, I'm willing to bet it would of dropped to 40 -50 at the most.
> 
> My birthday is coming up next month. I've been considering buying myself a i5 (or 7) for it.
> 
> This 8320 does well enough, when it does well, but, when it sucks, it sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure how mantle will affect next gen games, but, if it benefits AMD, than it will benefit intel more.
Click to expand...





all i hear is someone pouting, i have BOTH a 2011 RIVBE 3930k ( will be getting a 4930/4960 to have some fun with as well ) and it will be housing quadfire 290xs, and 8350 quadfire 7970s, and yet i still prefer to play on my 8350, the RIVBE is really for benching only and only because i want to try and crush a few of my friends. been there done that, and yea not that better, if it was not just a hobby i enjoy then i would never of paid for the RIVBE/3930k

i would never recommend someone just do this "___________"

how about this, to @StrongForce what will you be using your pc for? either way both cpus will probably work, but if we know what you plan on doing we can probably guide you a bit better

the 8350 will own any similarly priced intel in most rendering/ video editing/ photo editing. it does not do as bad as the above mentioned user states, there are some games that it will struggle with, but there are ways to fix that as well. that will make it better, not perfect.


----------



## M3TAl

If you knew the majority of your games were highly single threaded then you should of got Intel in the first place. Want to save get a used 2500K/2600K etc... That's what I'd do if I was worried about single thread. We all know Intel is best in single thread.

This 8350 does just fine for me. It's also awesome in my DAW (desktop audio workstation) program which is optimized for like up to 16 cores.


----------



## Chargeit

It's the min fps that is killing me with these CPU's. They just can't keep a steady, high fps with games that are heavy on the CPU. I really don't care how it renders videos, I'm worried about keeping 60 fps in games I play. This 8320 can't do that. You can throw all the money you want at it, but, nothing will fix the issues that are present.

I know I'm at the point with this CPU, that I've spent a very fair amount of money on my system, yet not getting the end performance that I expected. I'm not going to sit here in denial , and act like I don't know what the issue is.

I might sound like I'm "pouting", but, I'm trying to save the poster from wasting money on a inferior product. I mean, if he wants, he can buy one, and than keep throwing money at it until he's blue in the face like I've done. I suggest the i5.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> It's the min fps that is killing me with these CPU's. They just can't keep a steady, high fps with games that are heavy on the CPU. I really don't care how it renders videos, I'm worried about keeping 60 fps in games I play. This 8320 can't do that. You can throw all the money you want at it, but, nothing will fix the issues that are present.
> 
> I know I'm at the point with this CPU, that I've spent a very fair amount of money on my system, yet not getting the end performance that I expected. I'm not going to sit here in denial , and act like I don't know what the issue is.
> 
> I might sound like I'm "pouting", but, I'm trying to save the poster from wasting money on a inferior product. I mean, if he wants, he can buy one, and than keep throwing money at it until he's blue in the face like I've done. I suggest the i5.


all games i have played pushes my 3x1080p eyefinity just fine and without issue


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you knew the majority of your games were highly single threaded then you should of got Intel in the first place. Want to save get a used 2500K/2600K etc... That's what I'd do if I was worried about single thread. We all know Intel is best in single thread.
> 
> This 8350 does just fine for me. It's also awesome in my DAW (desktop audio workstation) program which is optimized for like up to 16 cores.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> all games i have played pushes my 3x1080p eyefinity just fine and without issue


I went AMD, because I picked up this FX 8320, and a 970A-UD3, for the same price as a i5.

The guy I was telling to get the i5, was going to be spending enough to get an i5, on a 8320 / 990FXA-UD5.

If he's getting a system for gaming, than I see no reason for him to pick a 8320, over the i5. It just doesn't make sense, not at the same price.

If he's making a system for general computing, than sure, these CPUs do great. I've had no issues with the CPU outside of gaming. My system is super responsive, has yet to get bogged down, and is really a joy to use... Outside of games.

When this CPU does well, it does great, when it doesn't, it doesn't. I know every time I get a new game, I'm dreading hitting that moment that I'll hit that cpu brick wall.

As a gaming CPU, there are way too many instances of this CPU not being able to handle more than 40 fps, for me to suggest it.

*I'm going to add, I'll most likely be looking to sell my 8320 / 990FXA-UD5 in a month or so. I'll ask $200 for the combo. It will be a face to face thing however, since I'm not going through the trouble of shipping, and would want the money before being willing to ship.


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> So whats the max temp recommended for this cheap ?
> 
> I might just go for a UD5 it's available at my local store wonder how it performs.. does anyone know if the basic BIOS handles the FX 6300 or the FX 8320 altought if I get the UD5 probably gonna get the FX 8320..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS if you have BF4 would be nice to see CPU usage benchmark in a 64 man server! curious about this chip OC ability, sounds awesome for a 120$ cpu damn.
> 
> Also I'm pretty sure an amd 8 core never hits 100% iny any core especialyl overclocked I remember seeing a benchmark about it but it's always nice to see other sources.


I do have BF4, and the difference in performance between my 550 BE and the FX 6300 is night and day. I only paid $109 for mine.

This is while playing on a 64 man 24/7 Locker server.


----------



## reeven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> 9.33strapbug.jpg 799k .jpg file
> 
> i bought an UD7, fx8350,put my corsair2x2gb D9GTR in it, 1600 ddr 15 6 6 7 1.8v, working just fine.
> Then wanted to test 9.33 strap, 1866mhz, its not booting there,an msg with overclock fail appear, and in bios i see that 9.33 1866mhz strap is in fact 2140mhz real.
> Gigabyte bios bug or what?
> put elpida hyper 8gb , 2x4gb in it, no post at 1866 strap, mean 2140 mhz .
> 
> Put back my FXA UD3, same problem, identical. UD3 is 4.0, UD7 is v3.0( written on pcb).
> What could be the cause of that? 9.33 strap 1866 is 2140mhz .
> 
> 
> 
> Have to ask is your FSB at 200 or 229-230? Haven't had this problem on Rev 1.1 UD3's.
Click to expand...

Only modification i do in bios is these
Fx 8350 at 4.2ghz, 200x22, turbo on at 4.2ghz,voltage 1.4128, Hpm on, apm off, rest default.
Fsb 200.
Maybe an bad bios for Micron and Elpida chips?


----------



## M3TAl

My sticks are Micron D9PFJ, but board is rev 1.1. Never tried a UEFI board.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> I do have BF4, and the difference in performance between my 550 BE and the FX 6300 is night and day. I only paid $109 for mine.
> 
> This is while playing on a 64 man 24/7 Locker server.


Thanks alot for the screenshot ! oO nice so the 6 core still got plenty of room wow. Oh I just realise you're at 80° though isn't that too much for that chipset ?

I gonna make the calculations from the website I buy at, In swiss franks, and I'll also explain my "Philosophy" for my next build and why I would choose AMD !

so the 4670k(235 bucks)+ a 150 bucks mobo, from what I looked at the ASROCK Fatal1ty Z87 Killer, was the best bang for the buck for my and I even saw on a website they overclocked pretty high with it.

Thats a total of 385 swiss bucks, and I'm not going to buy 4670k with a 100$ Mobo with a crappy H87 chipset, I want to overclock, even if that mean doing it in 2-3 years, future proof stuff.

I was looking at the UD5 by the way because they got the heatpipe on the VRM which could help for heat but oh well I might just go for the Asus board you know !

ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0

FX 6300 (117bucks) FX 8320(160bucks) M5A99FX PRO R2.0 (140bucks) so If I go 8320 it will be 300bucks ,that may sound crazy but if I can save 80 bucks, eventually to upgrade my graphic card in the next few months, I would be very happy aha, I have no job otherwise you know what I would get..

Also with the 6300 build it would be 260 bucks.. just recapping here.

And from what I've seen the FX8320 single threaded games performance was really close to the intel in most games and so is the 6300 too.

I would'nt mind going for a 8 core because I know mantle will probably improve the performance, and also the fact the consoles are on 8 core it might mean some of the upcoming games will be multithreaded altought that's just speculation (and there is the story that they use 6 cores only for gaming also soo) ! And I probably not gonna get an uber fancy card whenever I upgrade soon so after all I won't really get CPU bottleneck.. or not by much.

Also I'm mostly upgrading for BF4 so having a 8 core over the 6 core kinda made sense but now that I see that screenshot I think I might just go with the 6300.. and yes I might just go for the Asus board even thought thats more expensive than the CPU itself lol, all I want is a good board that overclocks well, doesn't burn, and hopefully work with those CPU out of the box without a BIOS update, I mailed those con artists at my local shop they said if they build my system they can update it but they charge 130 bucks, like wow son can't you just upgrade me this bios for 10 bucks







.

Also that mantle kinda puts me on the edge.. I somewhat trust AMD for that even though they're gonna be uber late.. lol, it's like the R9 290x it was so much talk and I somehow had the feeling it was gonna be a killer card, ended up matching and even beating the titan in some benchmark.. for nearly half the price like *** !

https://teksyndicate.com/forum/motherboards/gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud3-rev-30-stay-away/139832 here is a good thread talking about all this VRM overheating stuff too if anyone interested, some guy recommend the Asus there, the only thing bad they say about the Asus is the RMA don't know what's up with that though..think there is still the local shop 1 year warranty in case something goes wrong.

Oh and on this review here http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/990fx-motherboard-review-amd-fx,3464-5.html the guy say : "That's not to say that this board isn't packed with not-so-apparent features. A quick look around its perimeter shows a USB BIOS Flashback button for updating firmware without so much as a CPU installed,"

Interesting !

And lol sorry for the mini E-Book !







had lot to say and also sorry for concluding on an Asus choice on a Gigabytes thread


----------



## M3TAl

Man if you can find a 2600K or 3770K for cheap and a board I'd go for that. Nothing wrong with an 8320 at ~4.6 GHz in modern non highly single threaded games either.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Man if you can find a 2600K or 3770K for cheap and a board I'd go for that. Nothing wrong with an 8320 at ~4.6 GHz in modern non highly single threaded games either.


If I was in the USA i'd probably try to get something on Ebay like you say but here.. it's dead lol.

Btw I think neverwinter nights might be really poorly optimized, In most benchmarks I seen it was alright.

It will still be 10 times better than my [email protected] anyway even single threaded wouldn't it ?







And this CPU get's me pretty damn stable frames still in most games, that's the crazy thing eheh. I played tomb raider with epic settings, or like hitman (guess same engine), not all maxed but still







didn't see much of a frame drops at the settings I play ! games maybe like starcraft II had me reducing the graphics to lower levels. and crysis 3 ran fine until that uber map mission also lol. then I was limited to 20 fps regardless of the resolution I would set. same for BF4 I would try any resolution it would still lagspike me like crazy, CPU was 100% all the time.

So if some people are motivated to post some fraps benchmarks of single threaded games (or even heavily as you say) to see the minimum FPS it could be interesting !

Personally I just order the Asus board, might take 2 weeks they say but I'm not hasty, and the CPUs are available within days so I'll still have time to make my decision.

I predict a mantle release within these 2 weeks, let's see how my medium talents are.


----------



## M3TAl

Well I don't know how the online economy is for used PC parts where you live haha. There's no site just for your country or something like that?


----------



## reeven

My sticks are Micron D9PFJ, but board is rev 1.1. Never tried a UEFI board.

Find the culprit of strap 1866 been 2140mhz in real on UD 3 and UD7, it's because the timings, if i set 20 7 7 7 at 1866 strap, Pc wont boot, overclock fail message appear, and i see that my ram is at 2140mhz.

If i set 20 8 8 8 at 1866 strap, PC boot ok, 1866strap is 1875mhz in real,not 2140mhz....all are good.
i think i will stick at DDR 1600 11-6-6-6 CR 1, because i get awsome results there.

M3tal,your ram support command rate 1t at 1600mhz?
Thanks.


----------



## M3TAl

I've always run them at 1T. Currently I run 225 FSB ram at 1800 MHz 8-8-8-24 1T. I've also in the past run a 255 FSB and ram at 2040 MHz 9-9-9-27 1T. Any higher and the ram would start failing wprime and things. Never tried for higher timings and higher clocks, didn't seem necessary. 1800 MHz 8-8-8-24 runs great.

Timings of 7 are very low and doubt any sticks can run that at 1866 unless they're super high end/expensive.


----------



## GroovyMotion

To go back to the single-thread discussion, I got the 6300 because it was on special and it replaced my Athlon X2 250 and the difference is humongous! I am very happy with what I have, I can run FSX with a lot more settings close to the max. For me, my budget was very tight so the Haswell option was not a good one and I prefer having a 6300 over the same age intel.


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Thanks alot for the screenshot ! oO nice so the 6 core still got plenty of room wow. Oh I just realise you're at 80° though isn't that too much for that chipset ?
> 
> I gonna make the calculations from the website I buy at, In swiss franks, and I'll also explain my "Philosophy" for my next build and why I would choose AMD !
> 
> so the 4670k(235 bucks)+ a 150 bucks mobo, from what I looked at the ASROCK Fatal1ty Z87 Killer, was the best bang for the buck for my and I even saw on a website they overclocked pretty high with it.
> 
> Thats a total of 385 swiss bucks, and I'm not going to buy 4670k with a 100$ Mobo with a crappy H87 chipset, I want to overclock, even if that mean doing it in 2-3 years, future proof stuff.
> 
> I was looking at the UD5 by the way because they got the heatpipe on the VRM which could help for heat but oh well I might just go for the Asus board you know !
> 
> ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0
> 
> FX 6300 (117bucks) FX 8320(160bucks) M5A99FX PRO R2.0 (140bucks) so If I go 8320 it will be 300bucks ,that may sound crazy but if I can save 80 bucks, eventually to upgrade my graphic card in the next few months, I would be very happy aha, I have no job otherwise you know what I would get..
> 
> Also with the 6300 build it would be 260 bucks.. just recapping here.
> 
> And from what I've seen the FX8320 single threaded games performance was really close to the intel in most games and so is the 6300 too.
> 
> I would'nt mind going for a 8 core because I know mantle will probably improve the performance, and also the fact the consoles are on 8 core it might mean some of the upcoming games will be multithreaded altought that's just speculation (and there is the story that they use 6 cores only for gaming also soo) ! And I probably not gonna get an uber fancy card whenever I upgrade soon so after all I won't really get CPU bottleneck.. or not by much.
> 
> Also I'm mostly upgrading for BF4 so having a 8 core over the 6 core kinda made sense but now that I see that screenshot I think I might just go with the 6300.. and yes I might just go for the Asus board even thought thats more expensive than the CPU itself lol, all I want is a good board that overclocks well, doesn't burn, and hopefully work with those CPU out of the box without a BIOS update, I mailed those con artists at my local shop they said if they build my system they can update it but they charge 130 bucks, like wow son can't you just upgrade me this bios for 10 bucks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Also that mantle kinda puts me on the edge.. I somewhat trust AMD for that even though they're gonna be uber late.. lol, it's like the R9 290x it was so much talk and I somehow had the feeling it was gonna be a killer card, ended up matching and even beating the titan in some benchmark.. for nearly half the price like *** !
> 
> https://teksyndicate.com/forum/motherboards/gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud3-rev-30-stay-away/139832 here is a good thread talking about all this VRM overheating stuff too if anyone interested, some guy recommend the Asus there, the only thing bad they say about the Asus is the RMA don't know what's up with that though..think there is still the local shop 1 year warranty in case something goes wrong.
> 
> Oh and on this review here http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/990fx-motherboard-review-amd-fx,3464-5.html the guy say : "That's not to say that this board isn't packed with not-so-apparent features. A quick look around its perimeter shows a USB BIOS Flashback button for updating firmware without so much as a CPU installed,"
> 
> Interesting !
> 
> And lol sorry for the mini E-Book !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had lot to say and also sorry for concluding on an Asus choice on a Gigabytes thread


That 80* isn't a temp that its reading that is the TJMax of the processor.


----------



## Chargeit

@StrongForce - The CPU is a huge bottleneck









It's your money man. I know I'm jumping the AMD ship sooner, rather than later.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> @StrongForce - The CPU is a huge bottleneck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's your money man. I know I'm jumping the AMD ship sooner, rather than later.


I don't understand why AMD focuses only on multi-core computing...check the single-core performances and even the latest ans greatest AMD's have fairly low scores


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> I don't understand why AMD focuses only on multi-core computing...check the single-core performances and even the latest ans greatest AMD's have fairly low scores


R&D I guess.

I'm assuming if their single core performance could match intel, they'd be charging more themselves.

*I'm pricing intel CPU/MOBO as we speak. I'm really starting fresh here. Since I really don't know much about intel.

I do know if I go Haswell, I want this board.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131989

Though. I'd have to do much more research. like I said, I've basically got to figure out what's, what with intel. Also, I think their 8 cores will be out sooner or later. I'm wondering if that means their 6 cores will be more common. If so, I'll wait until I can get a ok deal on a 6 core.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> R&D I guess.
> 
> I'm assuming if their single core performance could match intel, they'd be charging more themselves.
> 
> *I'm pricing intel CPU/MOBO as we speak. I'm really starting fresh here. Since I really don't know much about intel.
> 
> I do know if I go Haswell, I want this board.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131989
> 
> Though. I'd have to do much more research. like I said, I've basically got to figure out what's, what with intel. Also, I think their 8 cores will be out sooner or later. I'm wondering if that means their 6 cores will be more common. If so, I'll wait until I can get a ok deal on a 6 core.


Check out this board too! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130692
I did a lot of research for Intel because everybody told me I need a haswell for FSX. Look for a Haswell i7 "K" models.
I will switch to intel if I get decent incomes within the end of year.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Check out this board too! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130692
> I did a lot of research for Intel because everybody told me I need a haswell for FSX. Look for a Haswell i7 "K" models.
> I will switch to intel if I get decent incomes within the end of year.


Cool, I tossed the board on my wish list as a reminder.

Yea, one of the few things I know is the "k" means the cpu's multiplier is unlocked.

Don't get me wrong, AMD cpu are fine for what they are, a low cost alternative. It's just that what StrongForce is talking about, doesn't make sense to me. I don't see the point in buying a 8320, and a expensive mobo, for the price of a i5 and average mobo, just to overclock the 8320 in an attempt to gain ground with the i5. I bought my UD5 because my UD3 throttled me no matter what I did. I should of just put the money towards a i5 or i7 myself. I'm not going to suggest someone gets something just because it's what I'm using.

To be honest, I'm the type that loves an underdog, and hates being price gouged. The issue is, I've spent a lot trying to make up for this CPU. Nothing works, I'm just accepting I've got to move to the greater evil that is intel if I want constant 60 fps in most games.

It sucks, but, it is what it is. If I could have close to intel single core performance though AMD, I'd stick to it. It just isn't possible.


----------



## StrongForce

Oh didn't know about Tjmax, be curious to hear the max temp of these CPU's anyway =).

And yea the Hero catched my attention for a fancier build.

Also guys If I upgrade amd/cheaper build now doesn't mean when I get the money I wont build a uber PC with whatever haswell or even if the 8 core intel like you say are worth it, indeed would be nice to see the 6 core price point drop, which maybe would in turn also make the 4770k and the like prices drop maybe ? who knows !

I'm thinking temporary with this upgrade mostly.

I'm gonna be looking at some benchmarks and update my post with my comparison ! and let me know what you think lol.

Ok so In this benchmark I got tell you how much average FPS amount difference and I'll compare the FX-6300 and the FX-8350 to the 2500k result

FX 6300 should be higher than the FX 6200 benchmarked here (Bulldozer vs Piledriver right ?) and the FX-8320 stock theorically a few frames lower. cause it's apparently the same CPU with less clock speed, don't know about the cache and all that.

but from what I seen in other benchmarks the FX-6300 and the 8 core the single threaded performance is essentially the same but I'll still put the FX-6200 as an indication.

So here it is :

Skyrim:
http://techreport.com/review/23750/amd-fx-8350-processor-reviewed/5 I'll put the link i got the numbers from.

In this order of comparison FX-6200 vs FX-8350 vs i5-2500k

66 vs 77 vs 99 = ok that's huge.

Arkham City:

59 vs 70 vs 80 = not that much here. betweeh the 8 core and the i5

BF3: (multithreaded)

84 vs 84 vs 86 = minimal gain

Crysis 2up to 4 core multithread according to my research

FX-6200 : 72 FX-8350 :86 i5-2500k :85

Far cry 2 : http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/amd_fx_8350_8320_6300_processor_4300_performance_review,10.html

Fx-6300 and FX-8320 both in the 105's 3770k 30 frames higher.

Just Cause 2 : http://static.techspot.com/articles-info/586/bench/Gaming_02.png

FX 6300 : 83 FX 8350 : 86.7 3770k : 86.9

The witcher 2:

FX 6300: 63.1 FX 8350 : 64.9 i5 2500k: 68.2

This review is nice also :

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-processor-frame-rate-performance,3427-8.html

Starcraft II Cpu dependent game here it does make sense to go intel as the minimum frame rate is way above

Metro 2033 :

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-processor-frame-rate-performance,3427-4.html

2-5 frames difference.

Altought the frames seems more "stable" on this benchmark :

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/fx-8350-8320-6300-4300_6.html#sect0

Borderlands 2:

FX 6300: 58.1 FX 8320: 58.6 3770k: 69.5

Here even more benchmarks :

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6396/the-vishera-review-amd-fx8350-fx8320-fx6300-and-fx4300-tested/5

My conclusion is AMD isn't that far from intel peformance wise and in most games it will achieve 60's stable frame rates, so I don't really see why I should go intel.

Perhaps if you want higher resolutions or fancy cards(you don't wanna get CPU bottleneck with a fancy card) or even 120hz screen it make sense to go intel.

Holy smokes that was some work good thing I got plenty of time on my hand







I'll probably post this in the general section or something to help people make a decision.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Oh didn't know about Tjmax, be curious to hear the max temp of these CPU's anyway =).
> 
> And yea the Hero catched my attention for a fancier build.
> 
> Also guys If I upgrade amd/cheaper build now doesn't mean when I get the money I wont build a uber PC with whatever haswell or even if the 8 core intel like you say are worth it, indeed would be nice to see the 6 core price point drop, which maybe would in turn also make the 4770k and the like prices drop maybe ? who knows !
> 
> I'm thinking temporary with this upgrade mostly.
> 
> I'm gonna be looking at a benchmark and update my post with my comparison ! and let me know what you think lol.


I was just making sure you knew. There is a ton of misinformation about AMD out there. Benchmarks showing average doesn't show the min fps.

If you're buying AMD because of cost, it's a good enough deal. If you're buying because you think you'll somehow be able to get intel performance, than you're in for a rough, costly future.

The min fps are where these cpus tank hardcore. Dropping from 60, to 35 fps in a game is an issue which can't be overstated. steady 35 fps is playable, dropping from 60 to 35 looks like a onscreen mess.


----------



## MadGoat

Posted in Vishera Forum, Will post here as it might be of use here as well:

FSB & Multipliers

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Al3OKDjZIOcwdHJBU3RMWEpRMkgzQm1aOFk3bU9fcGc&output=html&widget=true


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I was just making sure you knew. There is a ton of misinformation about AMD out there. Benchmarks showing average doesn't show the min fps.
> 
> If you're buying AMD because of cost, it's a good enough deal. If you're buying because you think you'll somehow be able to get intel performance, than you're in for a rough, costly future.
> 
> The min fps are where these cpus tank hardcore. Dropping from 60, to 35 fps in a game is an issue which can't be overstated. steady 35 fps is playable, dropping from 60 to 35 looks like a onscreen mess.


yea of course I'm choosing AMD because of the price I would get a 4770k If I could.

But check my post up there I updated it with some nice Info and you can see a comparison, to be honest I'm not sure which games you get those FPS drops it would be nice if you told us.

And which resolution ? did you try lowering a bit the AA or the Shadows, things like can can take alot on your CPU depending the game.

Seriously sounds odd that you get such bad FPS drops maybe something is wrong, especially with a 780, maybe the intel got more MIN FPS but shouldn't thaat bad as you describe.

And yes benchmarks that show average doesn't always show Min FPS but the MIN FPS should affect directly the average FPS at least from my understanding, I thought it was how FRAPS worked, so look up the numbers again on most of these games, it's really not that bad.

Maybe we need more feedback from other peoples on that because I'm just speculating there

Here is my general CPU section post http://www.overclock.net/t/1458883/amd-vs-intel-comparison-inside-stricly-gaming

I updated the post to ask if anyone had bad experience with that.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> yea of course I'm choosing AMD because of the price I would get a 4770k If I could.
> 
> But check my post up there I updated it with some nice Info and you can see a comparison, to be honest I'm not sure which games you get those FPS drops it would be nice if you told us.
> 
> And which resolution ? did you try lowering a bit the AA or the Shadows, things like can can take alot on your CPU depending the game.


I play at 1080p, with a GTX 780. Lowering settings tend to not have a huge affect on the fps. AA has no affect on most of the issues I mention.

Some games,

Skrim - Any town or city will drop to 40 -45. Some as low as 35ish. This causes a skipping screen appearance. Also, if I'm in 3rd person around a town, and spin, the camera skip badly once facing a town. This will do this basically no matter the graphics setting, but, I'm not setting my graphics to medium with a GTX 780.

Oblivion - Same as skyrim.

Neverwinter - drops hard fps in some areas 30ish. Once again, settings have little affect on the end drop. It will play slightly smoother, but, the fps will drop where it drops.

FarCry 2 - maintains 60 fps though most of the game, but, in towns will drop to the 35 - 40. I don't remember which, since I haven't played in a while.

Dead island riptide - A part in the game you're over ran by zombies, the fps drops hard. I'm thinking 15 - 20.

State of Decay - This is poorly optimized, but, it is almost unplayable at times using an AMD CPU. This game likes CPU, and even while maintaining a decent fps, the game will stutter.

Boardlands 2 - Many spots where it drops to 40 - 45. Lowest I noticed was maybe 38. Another one that settings don't fix.

The list could go on forever. There have been very few games, that at some point the fps wont' drop hard on using this CPU. Most of the drops I mention, are not affected by settings in game.

Once again, I point to my GPU. Playing at 1080p, there aren't many games which this card can't handle at high - max graphics settings. I've messed with various settings, and none seem to work. What I haven't done while using this card, is drop all the way to down to something I think is unrealistic, such as medium. If I'm dropping fps, it isn't because of the GPU, it's the CPU.

Oh, my OC right now is 4.4, maxed at 4.6. Going from 4.4, to 4.6 has little, if any affect. Now, with my current cooling, and my oc, my CPU temps stay sub 50c. So, overheating isn't the issue. My CPU also does not throttle, or drop voltage.

*Benchmarks* usually show the game, in one or two spots, it doesn't represent what happens in real world gaming. In real world gaming these CPUs get bogged down far too easily. I only wish I knew how to read between the benchmark lines like I do now, when I got this CPU. I'd of spent the extra cash on Intel from the start.

It is what it is. I know I'll be replacing this CPU soon. It's good enough, but, I want better. If you're the type that can't stand farts in your fps/gameplay, I'd stay away. If it doesn't bother you, than you'll be golden. Just try not to do like I've done and spend more in the long run, trying to save a few bucks.


----------



## Chargeit

Give me a little while, and I'll make a video of dropping fps in skyrim. You'll see what I mean. The game flows perfectly, expect when it doesn't. I'm not sure how the drops will play out once converted to something I can upload, as my upload bandwidth is fairly limited.

=D I'll enjoy the chance to use Shadow play. It doesn't affect the fps, since Skyrim doesn't even use 50% GPU usage half of the time, and likes to hover in the 30%.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Well, in my case it was budget...I knew it would not be the best option but price-wise it definitely was one!








I do lots of multi-tasking and that 6300 really shines and for games I don't run any other than FSX.
As for the haswell i7 they are still pricey and they require a very good mobo which is roughly 50$+ than mine. going haswell would have cost me almost 200$ extra which I didn't have.
Hey my 6300 @ 4.365Ghz with a max temp of 46C in FSX I am a darn happy camper


----------



## Chargeit

OK, here is a video of what I'm talking about. Now, it runs very smooth, but, in other games, with more action, that drop can be killer. This game doesn't drop outside of towns luckily (unless you're right by one).

It also seems to have benefited majorly from me increasing my OC to 4.4. This obviously a good thing.

Maxed @ 1080p w/high res texture pack (Using Fxaa). I didn't think about disabling Fxaa.





Once again, the game runs very smooth, but, it still drops hard core fps in some areas. In a game more action oriented, these fps drops can be killer.

Sorry about the VQ, I simply lack the upload bandwidth to upload higher quality, Also, I'm not exactly an experienced video producer here.


----------



## StrongForce

yea lows 40 does feel low for this card, maybe something is up, everything up to date, what about your RAM speeds, and are they running at the proper settings/voltage? I did remember that skyrim didn't ran maxed on my setup it's a pretty heavy game(at times like you say).

Also try to cut the antialiasing by half see if it helps


----------



## Chargeit

AA has no affect, it's amazing how little AA seems to affect the fps using my current card.

My rams running @ 1600, and healthy. I'm even using the profile it came with, so, I didn't OC it myself.

It isn't the card causing the low fps, it's the FX 8320. It does the same thing in Oblivion, and other games. There are just spots where this CPU can't hang.

Once again, it's very playable in Skyrim, and most likely you wouldn't notice many of the drops, but, in a faster game that does it, it can be killer.

*I still have to note again, that outside of towns, it stays at 60 fps. So, in Skyrim at least, you will be able to keep 60 fps 90% of the time.


----------



## M3TAl

Of course 8320 is bad in skyrim. It's x87 instructions, which bulldozer/piledriver absolutely suck at. If skyrim is a very important game to you, don't buy AMD CPU obviously.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Of course 8320 is bad in skyrim. It's x87 instructions, which bulldozer/piledriver absolutely suck at. If skyrim is a very important game to you, don't buy AMD CPU obviously.


Man, lets not act like these things can't be hidden at times.

If you look at some of the benchmarks, that one said skyrim pulls 72 fps. Now, when you're just getting into looking at these things, you're assuming that means it can hold 60 fps.

Also, most people aren't quick to show their vulnerabilities. I could easily make a video of skyrim pulling nothing but 60 if I wanted to, fighting a dragon and all. This is what you tend to see online.

The fact is, there countless instances of these CPUs dropping into the 30's or 40's. There really isn't much excuse for it, if you ask me.

I'm not asking for a CPU to pull straight 120, I just want 60. I had assumed from benchmarks that a AMD cpu could pull it. I was wrong.

Anyway, I'm just being real about the performance these CPU's have. There are very few games I've played that these CPUs can maintain 60 fps.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> OK, here is a video of what I'm talking about. Now, it runs very smooth, but, in other games, with more action, that drop can be killer. This game doesn't drop outside of towns luckily (unless you're right by one).
> 
> It also seems to have benefited majorly from me increasing my OC to 4.4. This obviously a good thing.
> 
> Maxed @ 1080p w/high res texture pack (Using Fxaa). I didn't think about disabling Fxaa.
> 
> Once again, the game runs very smooth, but, it still drops hard core fps in some areas. In a game more action oriented, these fps drops can be killer.
> 
> Sorry about the VQ, I simply lack the upload bandwidth to upload higher quality, Also, I'm not exactly an experienced video producer here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Of course 8320 is bad in skyrim. It's x87 instructions, which bulldozer/piledriver absolutely suck at. If skyrim is a very important game to you, don't buy AMD CPU obviously.
> 
> 
> 
> Man, lets not act like these things can't be hidden at times.
> 
> If you look at some of the benchmarks, that one said skyrim pulls 72 fps. Now, when you're just getting into looking at these things, you're assuming that means it can hold 60 fps.
> 
> Also, most people aren't quick to show their vulnerabilities. I could easily make a video of skyrim pulling nothing but 60 if I wanted to, fighting a dragon and all. This is what you tend to see online.
> 
> The fact is, there countless instances of these CPUs dropping into the 30's or 40's. There really isn't much excuse for it, if you ask me.
> 
> I'm not asking for a CPU to pull straight 120, I just want 60. I had assumed from benchmarks that a AMD cpu could pull it. I was wrong.
> 
> Anyway, I'm just being real about the performance these CPU's have. There are very few games I've played that these CPUs can maintain 60 fps.
Click to expand...

i still think there is something else wrong, you should be pushing far more then 30-50% gpu, i have no problem pushing quadfire gpus to 99+% yet you have 1 gpu and cant... is your chipset driver up to date ( from amd website? )


----------



## Chargeit

I've seen my GPU push more. In farcry 3, my GPU gets up to 70%. I've seen it higher, playing games without using Vsync. The GPU is fine.

1080p isn't very taxing for a 780, and it dropped in the same spots with my old card, just with lower settings. You're running 3 x monitors with your 7970's

I'm running heaven, and my GPU usage reads 99%


----------



## Mega Man

yet anything more is too much for the memory bandwidth














hence why i own amd, i should just buy skyrim and play it just to see how "bad" it is with amd for meself !

( not a pot shot at you but everyone always brings up skirm )


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yet anything more is too much for the memory bandwidth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hence why i own amd, i should just buy skyrim and play it just to see how "bad" it is with amd for meself !
> 
> ( not a pot shot at you but everyone always brings up skirm )


I bought the GPU because it was overkill.







I don't want my GPU to struggle.

I'd suggest getting Skyrim, but, wait until it's on sale. You can find the base game for $7.50 on steam, $20.00 with all DLC as a combo on sale.

It runs good man, it just drops fps in towns. You wouldn't know if you weren't looking for most of the time.

Oh, and I've been playing the Elder Scrolls games since the 90's.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> The fact is, there countless instances of these CPUs dropping into the 30's or 40's. There really isn't much excuse for it, if you ask me.
> 
> I'm not asking for a CPU to pull straight 120, I just want 60. I had assumed from benchmarks that a AMD cpu could pull it. I was wrong.
> 
> Anyway, I'm just being real about the performance these CPU's have. There are very few games I've played that these CPUs can maintain 60 fps.


Are you running a CPU monitor and GPU monitor on a secondary monitor to pinpoint the actual bottleneck or are you just assuming that because you have a really powerful video board the problem must be with the CPU?

I don't recall any framerate issues with FarCry 2 and I run 5760x1024 rez... It may just be because I'm not very far in that game at all.

The reason I ask, and I don't remember what game it was, but I had I had an issue where I was getting slowdowns, yet my GPU's were only peeking out at 50% load and the CPUs were not heavily loaded either. I either went on of off the latest beta driver and the frame-rate (about) doubled, but I don't remember the details.

Castlevania Lords of Shadow tends to be thread-bound on one CPU leaving the rest extremely underutilized... That is really the only game I have that runs better on my other machine which is a i7 3770 with GTX 660 TI. That machine can't be overclocked because its an Alienware x51 which is the original steambox type thing. Otherwise the FX typically runs everything just as well if not better.

I'm not arguing one is better than the other, just please make sure the CPU is really the issue...


----------



## Chargeit

Here's a video of the game using 70 - 90% GPU, and keeping 60fps.

I tired to find a dragon to fight, but, couldn't. It would of stayed at 60.






Not sure why it isn't allowing 720p. It says HD in my video manager.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> Are you running a CPU monitor and GPU monitor on a secondary monitor to pinpoint the actual bottleneck or are you just assuming that because you have a really powerful video board the problem must be with the CPU?
> 
> I don't recall any framerate issues with FarCry 2 and I run 5760x1024 rez... It may just be because I'm not very far in that game at all.
> 
> The reason I ask, and I don't remember what game it was, but I had I had an issue where I was getting slowdowns, yet my GPU's were only peeking out at 50% load and the CPUs were not heavily loaded either. I either went on of off the latest beta driver and the frame-rate (about) doubled, but I don't remember the details.
> 
> Castlevania Lords of Shadow tends to be thread-bound on one CPU leaving the rest extremely underutilized... That is really the only game I have that runs better on my other machine which is a i7 3770 with GTX 660 TI. That machine can't be overclocked because its an Alienware x51 which is the original steambox type thing. Otherwise the FX typically runs everything just as well if not better.
> 
> I'm not arguing one is better than the other, just please make sure the CPU is really the issue...


I don't have a 2nd monitor atm. We'll ones coming in tomorrow, but, I'm giving to my ol'lady.

Farcry 2 held fps well, but, there are spots it dropped for me (Facing some spots in town, some outside areas). To be honest however, I don't think I've played it since getting this GPU. I'll have to test it again.

I'll look into it more, I'm letting my GPU run at stock, I still haven't tired overclocking it. I think it adjusts it's self based on the current need.

My thing is, the spots that drop with this GPU, dropped with my old GPU. Such as the places in skyrim (be it at lower settings), and areas in BorderLands 2. I really don't think the GPU is to blame.

Everything else is solid. Now, my ram isn't the greatest, but, it passed stress tests, and is clocked at an acceptable speed (1600). Really, I'd be amazed if the ram was my issue.

So no one else here plays skyrim? To see if their fps drop in the same spots? I know the spots I drop in BorderLands 2, another user on the forum was dropping in the same spot, with the same CPU. That was when I had a HD 7850, him a HD 7870. Well, here I am, with a 780, and the same thing happens in the same spot. The common denominator is the CPU.

It's also worth noting, I tend to be sensitive to these things. Frame timing, drops, they stick out like a sore thumb to me. It's a curse I tell you.


----------



## herericc

I ended up buying a used Crosshair V Formula Z, here's to hoping I can crank out some nasty OC's with it!

The VRM cooling is insanely better than my little old UD3.

Unfortunately while installing it I messed up my H220 somehow, luckily I'm within the 2 week return/exchange time frame.

At least I have a spare mobo now in case I ever need one!

Thanks for helping me troubleshoot the UD3 guys!


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I don't have a 2nd monitor atm. We'll ones coming in tomorrow, but, I'm giving to my ol'lady.
> 
> Farcry 2 held fps well, but, there are spots it dropped for me (Facing some spots in town, some outside areas). To be honest however, I don't think I've played it since getting this GPU. I'll have to test it again.
> 
> I'll look into it more, I'm letting my GPU run at stock, I still haven't tired overclocking it. I think it adjusts it's self based on the current need.
> 
> My thing is, the spots that drop with this GPU, dropped with my old GPU. Such as the places in skyrim (be it at lower settings), and areas in BorderLands 2. I really don't think the GPU is to blame.
> 
> Everything else is solid. Now, my ram isn't the greatest, but, it passed stress tests, and is clocked at an acceptable speed (1600). Really, I'd be amazed if the ram was my issue.
> 
> So no one else here plays skyrim? To see if their fps drop in the same spots? I know the spots I drop in BorderLands 2, another user on the forum was dropping in the same spot, with the same CPU. That was when I had a HD 7850, him a HD 7870. Well, here I am, with a 780, and the same thing happens in the same spot. The common denominator is the CPU.
> 
> It's also worth noting, I tend to be sensitive to these things. Frame timing, drops, they stick out like a sore thumb to me. It's a curse I tell you.


Have you tried windows 8? For whatever reason people with the FX processor seem to get better more consistent frame-rates with windows 8 compared to windows 7.

I just tried this Castlevania game again, and now its going 70-80 FPS in 5760x1080 pushing those GPUs hard and the CPUs are not maxed at all. The difference is previously I was running 8.1 preview and now I'm running 8.0 and of course I'm on different drivers. Did not reinstall the game....


----------



## Chargeit

The guy I mentioned with borderlands 2 has Windows 8.

I just happen to like games that dislike AMD.

To be honest, even thinking of moving to windows 8, sounds like another vain attempt to throw money at a problem that keeps costing me more and more, without fixing the issue.

Now, the best part is, I'm not even sure that Intel doesn't drop fps in some of the games I mentioned. Like I said before, people tend not to make videos showing off their systems running poorly.

Frankly, I'd love to know, but, unless I know someone with a i7 or something running a 780, and I can see for myself, I'll never know. Not without trying it myself. Word of mouth wouldn't work, since you never know.

Yea, man, I just don't know. I'll check my CPU usage out tomorrow, when that other monitor comes in. I'm 99% sure that it's being CPU limited. If it isn't CPU, than my only other option is ram. But I seriously doubt that. I'd be floored if that was the case. I just don't think ram plays a large enough role, as long as it isn't just slack. I do want to upgrade my ram, to some G. skill 1866 16gb, but, I just want that to have, and, I'll use my current ram in my spare parts pc I"m making for my ol'lady.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> The guy I mentioned with borderlands 2 has Windows 8.
> 
> I just happen to like games that dislike AMD.
> 
> To be honest, even thinking of moving to windows 8, sounds like another vain attempt to throw money at a problem that keeps costing me more and more, without fixing the issue.
> 
> Now, the best part is, I'm not even sure that Intel doesn't drop fps in some of the games I mentioned. Like I said before, people tend not to make videos showing off their systems running poorly.
> 
> Frankly, I'd love to know, but, unless I know someone with a i7 or something running a 780, and I can see for myself, I'll never know. Not without trying it myself. Word of mouth wouldn't work, since you never know.
> 
> Yea, man, I just don't know. I'll check my CPU usage out tomorrow, when that other monitor comes in. I'm 99% sure that it's being CPU limited. If it isn't CPU, than my only other option is ram. But I seriously doubt that. I'd be floored if that was the case. I just don't think ram plays a large enough role, as long as it isn't just slack. I do want to upgrade my ram, to some G. skill 1866 16gb, but, I just want that to have, and, I'll use my current ram in my spare parts pc I"m making for my ol'lady.


I do know CPU benchmark wise my AMD 8320 FX needs to run about 4200GHZ to surpass my i7 which run at 3400GHZ.... AMD is a little slower. no doubt

There might be some sort of remote CPU monitoring APP that you can load on your phone or tablet.

I know both EVGA Precision and MSI Afterburner have components/apps to do this over Bluetooth. Perhaps they report CPU info as well. I never could get it to work because my x51 has no BT. The dongle thing I tried paired but probably was too much a relic to communicate. I thought it was a neat idea though.

I have a pretty older Toshiba Qosimo notebook for when I travel (which is never lately). I did not keep track of benchmark results but it really seemed like Tomb Raider ran quite a bit smoother after I switched to Windows 8. It was actually struggling pretty hard prior and I had fresh windows 7 ultimate OEM (not Toshiba version with shovel-ware). That machine has GTX 460m and an i7 740QM - which is supposed to be a 1.7 GHZ but for whatever reason its always running 2GHZ and I don't complain. I still love this machine(18.4" screen) and Windows 8 made it seem faster for everything. It still games pretty well as the resolution is only 1600x900 and more recently games are better threaded.

So I'm convinced windows 8 helps with at least some games. Some features are just annoying and stupid. Sometimes control panel applets launch into metro full screen apps. That just makes me cringe. I put up with it because I know performance wise it is better.


----------



## Chargeit

Check out the Skyrim results.

Now, they have AA set to 0, which is bs, but, they're using a 680. I haven't seen fps loss with higher AA, not with Vsync on. But, considering the price I paid for the card, I'm running AA.

http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2013/06/12/intel-core-i5-4670k-haswell-cpu-review/5

Min fps for them was 45. Now, they most likely stayed in one town. You'll notice, my fps didn't drop sub 45 until I entered solitude. Basically, this backs up my own results, that I've posted a video of. Now, I was using Vsync, but, the drops would happen in the same spots.

Not to sound like a know it all, but, I know where the issue stems.


----------



## StrongForce

I got skyrim I gonna try in the main town and in solitude with my old hardare, at settings which I'm at the limit, outside i'll be looking at 60 and will see how much it drops, you can also monitor your CPU usage to see what's going on, I personally think it's just the game, well, the place that's badly optimized, so perhaps with intels i7 it drops too, but a little less than the AMD, oh well I gonna test and tell you.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> I got skyrim I gonna try in the main town and in solitude with my old hardare, at settings which I'm at the limit, outside i'll be looking at 60 and will see how much it drops, you can also monitor your CPU usage to see what's going on, I personally think it's just the game, well, the place that's badly optimized, so perhaps with intels i7 it drops too, but a little less than the AMD, oh well I gonna test and tell you.


I wouldn't be surprised if intel did drop. I doubt so low however. I'm thinking 50ish, at the worst. I could be wrong though.

I mean, it's all good. The game really runs smoothly most of the time. The game runs noticeably better in the bad spots after I increased my oc from 4.2 to 4.4, lowered temps, and removed Vdrop.

I was amazed at how smoothly it ran when I was making those videos to be honest. I hadn't tried the game out, since my last oc adjustments. In a matter of fact, there were a few spots that used to drop, which now kept a full 60.

Did you buy Skyrim? If so, thanks for the effort man.







You're in for a treat if that's the case. It's a great game, despite the hate. I have been playing Elder scrolls games since the 90's, and I enjoyed Skyrim. Not as much as some of the others, but, I'm also older. My imagination isn't what it used to be.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

My 8350 has no issues keeping my 7970 maxed or FPS at 60 on about every game I play. Skyrim does have drops but as it was previously said its piss poor x87 coding, blaming AMD for a developers shortcomings is asinine. Crysis 3, BF4, Metro Last Light etc, the 7970 stays pegged. Older games Borderlands 2, Alan Wake, the new Shadow Warrior I'm seeing a steady 60fps. Are you running a low resolution? I know Intel lovers quite enjoy running things at 1024x768 to show off their CPU muscle...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> My 8350 has no issues keeping my 7970 maxed or FPS at 60 on about every game I play. Skyrim does have drops but as it was previously said its piss poor x87 coding, blaming AMD for a developers shortcomings is asinine. Crysis 3, BF4, Metro Last Light etc, the 7970 stays pegged. Older games Borderlands 2, Alan Wake, the new Shadow Warrior I'm seeing a steady 60fps. Are you running a low resolution? I know Intel lovers quite enjoy running things at 1024x768 to show off their CPU muscle...


No, I run at 1080p.

I know a few spots in Boarderlands 2 that you'll drop fps. You might not notice them, at first I didn't, until they were pointed out to me.

I haven't played any of the other games you've mentioned, not really what I'm into.

It would seem that only I, and reviewers have any of the issues I've pointed out.


----------



## StrongForce

Running 1080p at those settings :

https://imageshack.com/i/nsju2wj

I get exactly the same as you 60 fps most of the time and drops to 30-40 in the town it's normal, lowering the shadow, aaoff, tryed all besides texture the FPS's stays the same as Ozzy says just poor coding.

Also check out my CPU usage after triggering a fight with the whole whiterun town lol.

https://imageshack.com/i/g1nhiqj

Still not 100% even with my ice age CPU [email protected] Lol. Wonder how also.

BF4 kills my CPU it's 100% to the max now that's a real bottlenecking game.

Also you gotta test to lower a bit of antialiasing like just test the 1 under max, you can barely notice no difference anyway !

and try no FXAA I think I had a few more frames (which would make the frame lowering less noticeable).

The good test is to go on a part where your FPS are low, then go first person and move left to right as fast as you can, if it stays smooth then you're good it should'nt spike or notice.

It's just the game poorly optimized so the performance lacks for full AA even on a 780 lol.

For the luls now

https://imageshack.com/i/5nsoqqj

Oh and yea as you can see I also modded it a bit, can you dig that view distance ?







.

And on that spot I had 30fps.


----------



## Chargeit

It didn't surprise me that it dropped in the same spots, or that the CPU usage wasn't 100%.

I thought FXAA was less intensive than normal AA. It's not a big deal however, since I really like the more rugged look of FXAA in this game.

Like I had mentioned before, their older game Oblivion drops in the same spots, a lot of it could engine limitations.

Thanks for taking a look at it. And once again, it ran very well when I made the videos last night, even in the spots it dropped. It was a noticeable improvement over my last OC. Maybe not in fps, but in smoothness.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Speaking of bottleneck, I just read about the upcoming Kaveri APU and found some interesting facts!
The chip splits it's cores for the CPU and GPU and tasks are handled by the chip and not the OS. So, the APU and GPU can have access up to 32Gb RAM!








Another interesting thing, an AMD R7 based card can have increases by almost 100% compared to Richland-based systems!

Now, we have no idea how it performs in single-thread apps but it still looks promising! Can't wait to see more infos and compare with the upcoming Haswells

Part 1: http://news.softpedia.com/news/AMD-Kaveri-APU-Highlights-Part-1-12-Compute-Cores-and-4-GHz-Frequency-416767.shtml
Part 2: http://news.softpedia.com/news/AMD-Kaveri-APU-Highlights-Part-2-hUMA-Allows-Both-CPU-and-GPU-Direct-Access-to-32-GB-RAM-416786.shtml
Part 3: http://news.softpedia.com/news/AMD-Kaveri-APU-Highlights-Part-3-Dual-Graphics-TrueAudio-and-Fluid-Motion-Video-416847.shtml


----------



## Chargeit

I wouldn't mind a APU based system for general computing.

Got that 2nd monitor in. Still haven't hooked it up, since, I really can't figure out a way that won't get in the way of general space. I'll just use the thing until I finish my ol'ladys system. Being a women, she isn't overly concerned with it, though, she does want it.

I was going to get a 2tb hdd to use as a data drive, and put my 1tb hdd data drive in the spare parts rig. Now, since I'm making it for her, I'm going to put in a 1tb hybrid instead. Since she only plays that mmo on her free time, it will be prefect for her.

CPU wise, I'm debating putting in a 6300, or, upgrading mine to a 8350, and putting in my 8320. Than there's moving to intel, and just putting my current mobo/cpu in there. I think I'm going to wait until next gen intels come out before making the move. AMD has me spoiled with more cores, and really want 6 or more. I just don't want to pay over 600 for a CPU. We'll see.

The ram, will be the ram I currently have in my system. OS, will be vista, since I have a laptop with it, that I can use the product key off of (Yea, it works like that). Though, I'd prefer to install Windows 8 for her, since her laptop uses that. Really, I'll let her decide what she wants to do with the OS. If she wants to buy a new copy of windows, we'll do it. I doubt she will however.

I'm always amazed at how nonchalant women are about tech. If i were her, I'd be so freaking ready to get away from gaming on a laptop. Anyway, I know when it's done, she'll love the thing. The game she plays, held 60 fps easy with my old setup, on pretty high settings. I mean, I didn't see how a raid would do, but, I did run some missions with her, on my old toons, doing fairly heavy high level crap. I'm thinking it will hold up well, it didn't drop on me during that time. (Errr... I used to play mmo's, but, I've been off that **** since 2010)


----------



## GroovyMotion

Nice...I really can't wait to get a second monitor! A guy runs 3x27" widescreens lol it's like actually being in a cockpit!









Yeah hybrid drives looks great but in my case I am getting an SSD for FSX only...mechanical drives are just too slow, it takes 3-4min to load up a scene as opposed to seconds on an SSD!








The 6300 has a pretty impressive price/performance value! As for the upcoming Haswell, I am sure they will have outrageous prices at the beginning so these are off for me!
Yeah women aren't as excited as we are with techs, as long as the thing runs they are fine lol


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice...I really can't wait to get a second monitor! A guy runs 3x27" widescreens lol it's like actually being in a cockpit!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah hybrid drives looks great but in my case I am getting an SSD for FSX only...mechanical drives are just too slow, it takes 3-4min to load up a scene as opposed to seconds on an SSD!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 6300 has a pretty impressive price/performance value! As for the upcoming Haswell, I am sure they will have outrageous prices at the beginning so these are off for me!
> Yeah women aren't as excited as we are with techs, as long as the thing runs they are fine lol


Oh, yea, for the game you play, 3 x monitors would pawn.

Hybrid drives are good for things you do often, from what I understand. They work like superfetch, once they know what you tend to do on your system, they load it into the SSD portion of the drive. This would be great for the OS, and people who focus on a single game. How they compare to a full on SSD, I'm not sure, but, I know it's better than a HDD if you're the type that uses the same programs a lot.

Yea, she'd do well with the FX 6300. I also have my old 212 evo, that I can put on it. I'll give her a nice little overclock.

Yea, I'm sure intel will milk people for all they're worth. I'll see. It still comes down to the fact, that things I like to play, just do better with intel. Even things such as FPS, I don't play games such as BF4, I'll play borderlands, things that are open world, Strategy games, RPG type (That term is loose now), and lot of indie titles.

I've noticed some of the indie games, tend to be poorly optimized when it comes to CPU usage, this doesn't meet up well with AMD's weaker cores. I don't see that changing any time soon. Not all however, and many I have run flawless, it's mainly the zombie ones, the indie devs have issues getting them to run well with all that AI, from what I can tell. These are the games that I really feel like I need more CPU for... I'm a zombie fiend.

*Check out at 2:55, you'll see the hybrid drive loads games as quickly as a ssd after four runs, its boot times aren't as good however, but better than a HDD by far.*


----------



## GroovyMotion

Interesting about the hybrid but I don't know how that would work out because FSX can't be installed on the same partition as the OS
Yeah I don't play BF4 but I do have BFBC2 but my favorite is an oldie, Call of Duty 2!









I just had a flash, I will try to hook up my TV to my video card, I just need a HDMI-DVI adaptor!









I think Indie games are great, and I like supporting small dev teams! Linux has quite a lot of them!

As for your previous post about win8, I am not sure...tried it and don't like it. But, recent games are supposedly faster in it. This wouldn't be the case for FSX which still runs on DX9 lol...there is a DX10 fix but it's a 30$ add-on!


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I do know CPU benchmark wise my AMD 8320 FX needs to run about 4200GHZ to surpass my i7 which run at 3400GHZ.... AMD is a little slower. no doubt
> 
> There might be some sort of remote CPU monitoring APP that you can load on your phone or tablet.
> 
> I know both EVGA Precision and MSI Afterburner have components/apps to do this over Bluetooth. Perhaps they report CPU info as well. I never could get it to work because my x51 has no BT. The dongle thing I tried paired but probably was too much a relic to communicate. I thought it was a neat idea though.
> 
> I have a pretty older Toshiba Qosimo notebook for when I travel (which is never lately). I did not keep track of benchmark results but it really seemed like Tomb Raider ran quite a bit smoother after I switched to Windows 8. It was actually struggling pretty hard prior and I had fresh windows 7 ultimate OEM (not Toshiba version with shovel-ware). That machine has GTX 460m and an i7 740QM - which is supposed to be a 1.7 GHZ but for whatever reason its always running 2GHZ and I don't complain. I still love this machine(18.4" screen) and Windows 8 made it seem faster for everything. It still games pretty well as the resolution is only 1600x900 and more recently games are better threaded.
> 
> So I'm convinced windows 8 helps with at least some games. Some features are just annoying and stupid. Sometimes control panel applets launch into metro full screen apps. That just makes me cringe. I put up with it because I know performance wise it is better.


Core temp has a plugin that lets you monitor your core temps, cpu usage and memory usage on your phone. You have to forward ports on your router and make your pcs ip static.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Interesting about the hybrid but I don't know how that would work out because FSX can't be installed on the same partition as the OS
> Yeah I don't play BF4 but I do have BFBC2 but my favorite is an oldie, Call of Duty 2!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had a flash, I will try to hook up my TV to my video card, I just need a HDMI-DVI adaptor!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think Indie games are great, and I like supporting small dev teams! Linux has quite a lot of them!
> 
> As for your previous post about win8, I am not sure...tried it and don't like it. But, recent games are supposedly faster in it. This wouldn't be the case for FSX which still runs on DX9 lol...there is a DX10 fix but it's a 30$ add-on!


I really don't know how that would work out. I mean, if you already have a data drive, than it's not a big deal. I'd personally take a hybrid, over just using a single 120gb ssd. I think the hybrids are ideal for people who use limited programs, or, like my mom or something. Someone who doesn't need to handle more than one drive.

Converters are cheap enough. It would be cool to have 3 monitors set up, and a larger TV as a 4th, for monitoring temps, and the such...









I've played some good indie games. I am wary of them however, since many are fairly shallow. I also think they are getting a little bold in their pricing, considering their depth of play. Still, I've had a few that I've loved. I guess it's the chance you take.

Well, the windows 8 would be for my ol'ladys system. I'm still hooked on windows 7.

*Got the 2nd monitor set up. I need to calibrate the colors, looks grey next to my current one. It's also slightly higher. It's the same model, but, a newer version. =/ The Acer logo is silver, and not black. Not a big deal, since it won't be mine anyway. I kind of already had it planned, to sooner or later, give my ol'lady both of these, and buy 3 new monitors, 24 inch, at the same time. (Add devil smiley here). To be honest, just two of these 22" is a whole lot of monitor, and take up a ton of desk space. I'll post a pick of it later. Oh, and, I'm sure the extra heat from just this one is enough to be overwhelming. I'm surrounded by monitors, and computers.

*Damned if this phone isn't cramping my pictures style... I need to replace my camera.
*


----------



## KingKB82

Hello all!

New to this forum, I am thinking about buying the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD7 AM3+ and or the ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z AM3+. Currently have a cheapo Asus M5A97 R2.0. I was wondering on what kind of input you guys/gals have on the Gigabyte motherboard I posted. I am far from novice so lay it on me and let me know. Also this is not a new build whatever Motherboard I end up purchasing will be paired up with my AMD FX-8350 and Ill be running GTX760 Sli as well..

Thanks!!!


----------



## GroovyMotion

Yeah I just bought a second HD so I'll probably get a Samsung EVO 250Gb for FSX...I already have close to 100Gb of add-ons including the base install lol! I think there is no other game where you can add so much add-ons and go bankrupt!









Your desk area looks great, I only have a small desk, it's got a good depth but having 2x 22" would fill 95% of it's width lol.
Yeah I know about indie but on linux there is quite a lot of them that are free or really cheap through the Ubuntu Software Centre








Heck, many FSX add-ons have a ridiculous price too!

What is your phone? Mine is crapping out too it's a Galaxy S2, I am good for an upgrade in 2 weeks, will prolly get the S4 since the S5 might be released around may or something.


----------



## Kalistoval

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Depends on what you use it for. I've got over 10 hours in BF4 now at 5.04 GHz still no problems. IBT AVX stable, NOPE. Never had one single problem with an 8320 for months either at 4.6 and it would fail IBT instantly. YMMV.
> 
> So finally got the Mosfet and NB blocks installed today... Turns out my board is warped just like a lot of people's around here. The Fujipoly thermal pad wasn't even making contact with the middle mosfets and I was even using screws instead of the pushpins. Really sucks... To try and counter act this I added a little extra thermal pad in the middle and tightened the block as much as possible.
> 
> Will continue keeping a close eye on mosfet temps with thermal probe on back of board where mosfets are. In BF4 at 1.52-1.55 V 5.04 GHz and a blower fan on VRM heatsink the back board temp was always 52-56C which should be perfectly fine.
> 
> While doing some suicide Cinebench runs the back of the board hit 96C at 1.71 V 5.33 GHz for about 10 seconds, dangerous I know. Think I'm done tempting fate, no more crazy Cinebench or other bench runs. I'll stick to gaming. Just wanted to see what was possible with this new loop.
> 
> Still working a giant air bubble out of the CPU block. This is the 3rd time to fill this thing up, every single time there's always a giant air bubble in the block. Leave it on overnight and it's always gone in the morning.
> 
> Think this cheap tubing is already having plasticizer issues
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turning yellowish green, you can kind of see it in some of the pics. Just going to live with it for now. Told myself I'm not spending anymore friggin money on this dang PC. Not willing to shell out the $40-50 for the premium tubing right now.
> 
> Even more bad news... One of these Crucial Ballistix isn't being recognized by Windows. No idea why. All I did was remove RAM to get mobo out of case. When everything was done I put them back in. So much crap ughhhh!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Watercooled Rig Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In that 3rd pic with the 4 90 Deg fittings. The tubing in the front is fresh from my leftover tubing. You can see how it looks clearer/cleaner than the one behind it.


your right about those mosfets reach 90+ on the stock plastic push pins here is a small test i did on my rig my room temp is in the 60s and I did this pretty much as a suicide run to see how much i could push this thermal limit this is 4.8ghz 1.6 vcore 2400 mhz nb 2600 mhz HT 1600 mhz ram cl9 this is on a GA970A-UD3P


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKB82*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> New to this forum, I am thinking about buying the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD7 AM3+ and or the ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z AM3+. Currently have a cheapo Asus M5A97 R2.0. I was wondering on what kind of input you guys/gals have on the Gigabyte motherboard I posted. I am far from novice so lay it on me and let me know. Also this is not a new build whatever Motherboard I end up purchasing will be paired up with my AMD FX-8350 and Ill be running GTX760 Sli as well..
> 
> Thanks!!!


Welcome to OCN, as for your question I have just acquired a UD-7, so I wont' pretend to know but some one will.







I have a question as well, where can I find out if the UD-7 is or is not capable of handling ram with a 3T command rate?


----------



## KingKB82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Welcome to OCN, as for your question I have just acquired a UD-7, so I wont' pretend to know but some one will.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question as well, where can I find out if the UD-7 is or is not capable of handling ram with a 3T command rate?


Haha Thanks for the welcome!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKB82*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> New to this forum, I am thinking about buying the GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD7 AM3+ and or the ASUS Crosshair V Formula-Z AM3+. Currently have a cheapo Asus M5A97 R2.0. I was wondering on what kind of input you guys/gals have on the Gigabyte motherboard I posted. I am far from novice so lay it on me and let me know. Also this is not a new build whatever Motherboard I end up purchasing will be paired up with my AMD FX-8350 and Ill be running GTX760 Sli as well..
> 
> Thanks!!!


The UD5 will do 2x16, or 3x8. Also, make sure you're case can fit a UD7, since it's a larger ATX. Not much reason to get a UD7 unless you're going 4 way sli.

I'm not sure about the Asus Crosshair, but, I do know these gb mobo's won't overclock as well. I'd go for the Asus, unless you want to save a few bucks.


----------



## KingKB82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> The UD5 will do 2x16, or 3x8. Also, make sure you're case can fit a UD7, since it's a larger ATX. Not much reason to get a UD7 unless you're going 4 way sli.
> 
> I'm not sure about the Asus Crosshair, but, I do know these gb mobo's won't overclock as well. I'd go for the Asus, unless you want to save a few bucks.


Thanks for the Input I am in fact going for the UD7, and my case can fit it not problem I have the CM Storm Stryker, can fit a midget in this case lol!! Also, I am not worried about overclocking it simply doesnt interest me..


----------



## Deepsouth1987

I am having alot of problems with the Corsair DOMINATOR GT that i am using on my system.. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145291
Do you guys know if this memory is okay for our motherboards? Thinking about possibly getting new memory. Out of every benchmark i do memory seems to be horrible and i can't figure out why.
I am running to packs of this memory above for a total of 8gb's
Thinking maybe its only running this memory in single channel mode? What are are some good memory known for the UD3 to work good? Thanks


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah I just bought a second HD so I'll probably get a Samsung EVO 250Gb for FSX...I already have close to 100Gb of add-ons including the base install lol! I think there is no other game where you can add so much add-ons and go bankrupt!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your desk area looks great, I only have a small desk, it's got a good depth but having 2x 22" would fill 95% of it's width lol.
> Yeah I know about indie but on linux there is quite a lot of them that are free or really cheap through the Ubuntu Software Centre
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heck, many FSX add-ons have a ridiculous price too!
> 
> What is your phone? Mine is crapping out too it's a Galaxy S2, I am good for an upgrade in 2 weeks, will prolly get the S4 since the S5 might be released around may or something.


Yea, since you already have a data drive (or two), I'd go SSD. For some reason, I had a brain fart, and imaged you only wanting to have 1 drive installed. I really suggest you look into the pro however. I don't think it's that much more.

Thanks. It looks much better in person. My desks are a random collection of things I had laying around. I repurposed the guest bedroom, and turned it into my computer room... Damned if I don't hate these red walls though. They make taking a picture a pain.

Man, my phone is some 4 or 5 year old Samsung. It's as old as dirt. Thing has metal shavings and crap all in it. I'm not big on mobile devices. Shoot, I gave my tablet to my mom, never used it.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKB82*
> 
> Thanks for the Input I am in fact going for the UD7, and my case can fit it not problem I have the CM Storm Stryker, can fit a midget in this case lol!! Also, I am not worried about overclocking it simply doesnt interest me..


Got you. I just suggest making sure it fits correctly.

I was going to get the UD7, just because. My case will fit it, but, it blocks the bottom row of the boards SATA connections. Just something to think of. I'm sure that case will work, just never know where the design team messed up. They'll ship it out knowing issues like that are there.


----------



## StrongForce

@KingK

I think he mean the UD5 probably offer everything the UD7 does without the 4way SLI I can't guarentee that though and did you just decide to make the move for the SLI ? as we been talking in the earler posts the AMD could lack a bit in single threaded applications or intense highly requiring (high resolution) 2500x1600 where you want no bottleneck, 120hz where you want max FPS, or SLI/Crossfire where you also don't want your CPU to bottleneck you (same for single GPU high end cards of course), it might be wise to invest in an intel system if you decide to invest that much In a motherboard.

Again this is pure "speculation" that I concluded after all my research.

But if you just want to stick with AMD yea that board will be good.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> I am having alot of problems with the Corsair DOMINATOR GT that i am using on my system.. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145291
> Do you guys know if this memory is okay for our motherboards? Thinking about possibly getting new memory. Out of every benchmark i do memory seems to be horrible and i can't figure out why.
> I am running to packs of this memory above for a total of 8gb's
> Thinking maybe its only running this memory in single channel mode? What are are some good memory known for the UD3 to work good? Thanks


From what I understand, you can only run 2 sticks at 1866 with AMD. If you're using 4 sticks, you can only run them at 1600. I could be wrong however, but, that's from what I've read.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, since you already have a data drive (or two), I'd go SSD. For some reason, I had a brain fart, and imaged you only wanting to have 1 drive installed. I really suggest you look into the pro however. I don't think it's that much more.
> 
> Thanks. It looks much better in person. My desks are a random collection of things I had laying around. I repurposed the guest bedroom, and turned it into my computer room... Damned if I don't hate these red walls though. They make taking a picture a pain.
> 
> Man, my phone is some 4 or 5 year old Samsung. It's as old as dirt. Thing has metal shavings and crap all in it. I'm not big on mobile devices. Shoot, I gave my tablet to my mom, never used it.


Well, the Pro rarely goes on sale which is an issue! It's now 250$ and the EVO was on sale at 189 last week!

Yikes that's quite an old phone lol and I thought my SG2 was old!








Walls are all red here too! Yuck lol


----------



## hajnalka

Help new problem pc shuting down power.
Run 2hours and shut down.
Start run 10minut and shut.
***.: Memory check memtest ok
CPU low temp lower off maximum 80C tdp.
Water temp max 50C.
PSU 8monts old Lepa G850 MAS


----------



## KingKB82

Wow, Thanks for all the excellent input, I will be looking further into those two motherboards now (UD5 and UD7). Ill check measurements and such as well in my case just to make sure there will be a solid amount of room to work with left over.


----------



## KingKB82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> @KingK
> 
> I think he mean the UD5 probably offer everything the UD7 does without the 4way SLI I can't guarentee that though and did you just decide to make the move for the SLI ? as we been talking in the earler posts the AMD could lack a bit in single threaded applications or intense highly requiring (high resolution) 2500x1600 where you want no bottleneck, 120hz where you want max FPS, or SLI/Crossfire where you also don't want your CPU to bottleneck you (same for single GPU high end cards of course), it might be wise to invest in an intel system if you decide to invest that much In a motherboard.
> 
> Again this is pure "speculation" that I concluded after all my research.
> 
> But if you just want to stick with AMD yea that board will be good.


Thanks! I am a huge AMD advocate and I Dont see myself going to Intel probably ever, I am aware of the possible bottleneck issues but I just cant get myself to purchase an Intel CPU.. Just cant do it lol But again thank you great for your input, these are things I need to further look into.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Help new problem pc shuting down power.
> Run 2hours and shut down.
> Start run 10minut and shut.
> ***.: Memory check memtest ok
> CPU low temp lower off maximum 80C tdp.
> Water temp max 50C.
> PSU 8monts old Lepa G850 MAS


Updated your bios and all that ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKB82*
> 
> Thanks! I am a huge AMD advocate and I Dont see myself going to Intel probably ever, I am aware of the possible bottleneck issues but I just cant get myself to purchase an Intel CPU.. Just cant do it lol But again thank you great for your input, these are things I need to further look into.


Alright just do what you gotta do


----------



## KingKB82

LOL After looking more into it UD5 will be the MOBO I buy probably... Love Asus but the other board is NEVER in stock and I simply dont want to wait


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> From what I understand, you can only run 2 sticks at 1866 with AMD. If you're using 4 sticks, you can only run them at 1600. I could be wrong however, but, that's from what I've read.


darn that blows. so if i get the 1600mhz quad channel g skills ram it should all show up right?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231429


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKB82*
> 
> Wow, Thanks for all the excellent input, I will be looking further into those two motherboards now (UD5 and UD7). Ill check measurements and such as well in my case just to make sure there will be a solid amount of room to work with left over.


Yea, I should of been a little more clear.

The UD5, and UD7 are both of the same build quality. The only difference is one supports up to 3 way Sli, and one 4 way. From what I understand, 4 way is rarely worth it. So, if you're only using 2 - 3 GPU, than you'd only need the UD5. The UD3 would work for 2 way, but, I'm not sure about the quality compared to the UD5/7, since I didn't look into them.

Yea, man, you never know. Maybe ask around, if you can't find the answer. It sucks when you get something thinking it will work, only to find out poor design stops it.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKB82*
> 
> LOL After looking more into it UD5 will be the MOBO I buy probably... Love Asus but the other board is NEVER in stock and I simply dont want to wait


I've had luck with my UD5, though, I did have to update the bios, and turn off APM to stop it from throttling my FX8320. It will attempt to maintain 125w and under from what I understand, without those adjustments.

Updating the bios on these are easy, and can be done though windows, using their @bios program. You'd have to download the bios you wanted off their website first however.


----------



## KingKB82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I should of been a little more clear.
> 
> The UD5, and UD7 are both of the same build quality. The only difference is one supports up to 3 way Sli, and one 4 way. From what I understand, 4 way is rarely worth it. So, if you're only using 2 - 3 GPU, than you'd only need the UD5. The UD3 would work for 2 way, but, I'm not sure about the quality compared to the UD5/7, since I didn't look into them.
> 
> Yea, man, you never know. Maybe ask around, if you can't find the answer. It sucks when you get something thinking it will work, only to find out poor design stops it.


Your absolutely correct. After taking your info and some others.. I will end up getting the UD5.. I will never do quad SLI etc.. too OP and not necessary lol Thanks again!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> darn that blows. so if i get the 1600mhz quad channel g skills ram it should all show up right?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231429


Yea. You'll have to still set the xmp profile, but, that will work.

Is there a reason you don't want 2x8gb? You could run them at 1866.

Here are 2 that look promising, for about the same price.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231625

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231623


----------



## KingKB82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I've had luck with my UD5, though, I did have to update the bios, and turn off APM to stop it from throttling my FX8320. It will attempt to maintain 125w and under from what I understand, without those adjustments.
> 
> Updating the bios on these are easy, and can be done though windows, using their @bios program. You'd have to download the bios you wanted off their website first however.


yeah Ill need to prob disable that for my 8350.. I am completely new to the gigabyte boards so i need to, i guess learn, their bios update process since asus way is alil different than some.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingKB82*
> 
> Your absolutely correct. After taking your info and some others.. I will end up getting the UD5.. I will never do quad SLI etc.. too OP and not necessary lol Thanks again!


Sounds like a winner.


----------



## Deepsouth1987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea. You'll have to still set the xmp profile, but, that will work.
> 
> Is there a reason you don't want 2x8gb? You could run them at 1866.
> 
> Here are 2 that look promising, for about the same price.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231625
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231623


No reason at all just wanting to fill up the slots on my UD3 motherboard. So i could get 2x8gbs and run them as profile in bios to get them to run at 1866 is what you are saying when you mean xmp profile


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> No reason at all just wanting to fill up the slots on my UD3 motherboard. So i could get 2x8gbs and run them as profile in bios to get them to run at 1866 is what you are saying when you mean xmp profile


Yea.

I don't think there would be any benefit of doing it the other way, other than filling out your slots. I could be wrong however, and you might want to check. Make sure it's about AMD, not intel. Intel can handle more slots, at higher speeds.

I'm 99% sure that you'd be better off with 2 sticks @ 1866, than 4 @ 1600.


----------



## simsim44

I personally went with the UD-7 for the audio out puts and there was something else the UD-5 didn't offer don't remember off hand, might of been the amount of sata connectors or something .


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I personally went with the UD-7 for the audio out puts and there was something else the UD-5 didn't offer don't remember off hand, might of been the amount of sata connectors or something .


The ud5 has 2 pci slots, only one on the ud7, since that extra spots is used for the extra pcie slot.

Ud5 8 usb 2.0, UD7 7 usb 2.0

UD5 2x eSATA 6gb/s / UD7 1 x eSATA/USB ,Combo 1x eSATA 6gb/s

UD5 optical x1 / UD7 Optical x 1 , Coaxial x1

Yea, well minor differences. I'm assuming if you need any of it, you'll know.

Both are 8 channel audio, and support the same amount of sata connections at the board. (I think)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> @KingK
> 
> I think he mean the UD5 probably offer everything the UD7 does without the 4way SLI I can't guarentee that though and did you just decide to make the move for the SLI ? as we been talking in the earler posts the AMD could lack a bit in single threaded applications or intense highly requiring (high resolution) 2500x1600 where you want no bottleneck, 120hz where you want max FPS, or SLI/Crossfire where you also don't want your CPU to bottleneck you (same for single GPU high end cards of course), it might be wise to invest in an intel system if you decide to invest that much In a motherboard.
> 
> Again this is pure "speculation" that I concluded after all my research.
> 
> But if you just want to stick with AMD yea that board will be good.


huh? i run 5760x1080 in quadfire without issue, will intel get a few more fps/numbers in benches ... yes is it ginormous no . just got back from my mothers ( she had surgery and i stole a monitor for her house or i would run a tomb raider or something like that bench for you when i get it set up i can, i can not max FXAA usually just due to the fact it does not have enough memory ( almost no cards do ) but i can max all other settings usually )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> I am having alot of problems with the Corsair DOMINATOR GT that i am using on my system.. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145291
> Do you guys know if this memory is okay for our motherboards? Thinking about possibly getting new memory. Out of every benchmark i do memory seems to be horrible and i can't figure out why.
> I am running to packs of this memory above for a total of 8gb's
> Thinking maybe its only running this memory in single channel mode? What are are some good memory known for the UD3 to work good? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> From what I understand, you can only run 2 sticks at 1866 with AMD. If you're using 4 sticks, you can only run them at 1600. I could be wrong however, but, that's from what I've read.
Click to expand...

as for him open aida64 and runa memory bench, it will say if you are running dual or single channel


as for what you are saying about 1866/1600 not true ,officially supported is what you are talking about.

you can overclock it i run 2x2400 8gb sticks ( never could get all four stable, although some people can, and i never tried with my new 1229 chip ) MOST can run 4x1866 or 4x 2133/2200, most chips can run 2400x2 fewer are able to pull 2400x4, also to note 2gb sticks are easier to stabilize then 4gb and the same is true for 8gb
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Help new problem pc shuting down power.
> Run 2hours and shut down.
> Start run 10minut and shut.
> ***.: Memory check memtest ok
> CPU low temp lower off maximum 80C tdp.
> Water temp max 50C.
> PSU 8monts old Lepa G850 MAS


no idea you basically just said " my car is shutting off, it has a v8 uses unleaded and i put in 85 and it does not get so hot it redlines but stays right underneath it .

you should start by filling out a rigbuilder ( upper right hand corner of this page ) and then put that rig in your sig ( google is your friend )
then post a pic with HWinfo loaded up ( all windows open including sensors )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deepsouth1987*
> 
> No reason at all just wanting to fill up the slots on my UD3 motherboard. So i could get 2x8gbs and run them as profile in bios to get them to run at 1866 is what you are saying when you mean xmp profile
> 
> 
> 
> Yea.
> 
> I don't think there would be any benefit of doing it the other way, other than filling out your slots. I could be wrong however, and you might want to check. Make sure it's about AMD, not intel. Intel can handle more slots, at higher speeds.
> 
> I'm 99% sure that you'd be better off with 2 sticks @ 1866, than 4 @ 1600.
Click to expand...

you are correct you get more performance by using only 2 slots if you can


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I had read it was possible, but not a guarantee to run more than 1600 on 4 slots. I guess I should of mentioned that, but, I think you have to know a good amount about ocing ram to have a better chance.








Those sets I posted should do great. Though, I'm no ram expert.


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh? i run 5760x1080 in quadfire without issue, will intel get a few more fps/numbers in benches ... yes is it ginormous no .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*


Well .. Did I said it was a big issue ? All I'm saying is that if you invest so much in GPU's you might wanna get the most out of them with the best cpu possible, don't know it just make sense to me!

Maybe you misinterpret the word "bottleneck" I'm not saying it's not gonna work, all I'm saying is, less FPS and min FPS yes.


----------



## Mega Man

and yet i feel i do get the mos outta them, i have a 2011 and yet i still prefer by far my 8350


----------



## vonss

I'm set in changing the NB HS in my UD3, but I can't find a one that clearly says is compatible.
Could anyone please tell me of one that fits properly (as in you know for a fact that it does), I have only one shot at it since I'm buying it from USA via a friend so I can't afford getting one that won't fit. Thanks in advance.

Edit: Also, is it worth replacing the VRM HS too?


----------



## bbond007

I was reading what some of you were saying about the possibility of getting the 4 sticks of RAM going 1866MH, so I decided to give it a try.

I have 2x 8GB crucial ballistix sport 8gb(1.5v) and 2x crucial ballistix sport very low profile 8gb(1.35v).

Anyway, I manually set the timing to 10,10,10,27 9x clock as a starting point, and the computer failed to boot and asked me if I wanted to go into the BIOS or do a reset. I elected to go into the BIOS and then I increased the voltage to 1.6v to see if helped.

This time the computer failed to boot and even come to that reset screen so I powered it off.

now pressing the power button did absolutely nothing









I unplugged AC from PS, turned off the PS switch, waited a few minutes...

Still failed to boot so I tried to reset the CMOS jumper. No luck with that.

I tried unplugging everything except the KB and one monitor.

Still, no boot... I thought maybe I ruined the RAM do I changed out the RAM.

I tried plugging the power from the wall into an external DVD just to make sure I was getting AC from the UPS. Just to make sure I was not being really stupid.

I thought the PSU maybe failed and I have another PSU with really long wires so I could connect it up without removing the existing one which is a PIA. That PSU also failed to turn on.

I thought maybe one of the power button wires had come off, so I plugged the reset button onto the power header which had no effect so I then relocated the reset jumper to the CMOS reset so I could reset like 20 times in a row out of spite - like that was going to help.

Finally, I was at the point of giving up so I was going to unplug the KB and the last remaining monitor so I could disassemble the computer. When I unplugged the KB the computer turned on and came up to the CMOS reset screen, but I had no KB, so I plugged the KB back in and turned off computer as it did not seem to pick up the presence of the KB.

It got right back into that totally stoned state again, but this time I now had hope. Turns out that I had a powered hub plugged into the KB USB port that had forgotten about.

My theory is that thing keeps power on the MB which keeps it from properly resetting from a failed state... its working again but I thought for sure it was dead for a minute









cheers!


----------



## hajnalka

Problem solved.ATX cable 24pin is poor connect need more push.

I try 5Ghz one core is not sable freeze pc. OCCT test.

Run all core to 4.8Ghz stable. Core +0.075V chipset +0.075V

Idle consumption watt meter 210W
Cpu burn test peak 500W
CPu and GPU burn peak 650W HD7950.

Water temp max 50C
Mosfet temp max 80C laser meter.


----------



## Chargeit

Things like that are why I left out the fact that it is possible in theory to run ram 4 slot faster than 1600. I'd assume x4 @ 1600, X2 @ 1866, unless ocing ram is your thing.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Problem solved.ATX cable 24pin is poor connect need more push.
> 
> I try 5Ghz one core is not sable freeze pc. OCCT test.
> 
> Run all core to 4.8Ghz stable. Core +0.075V chipset +0.075V
> 
> Idle consumption watt meter 210W
> Cpu burn test peak 500W
> CPu and GPU burn peak 650W HD7950.
> 
> Water temp max 50C
> Mosfet temp max 80C laser meter.


What is your CPU?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and yet i feel i do get the mos outta them, i have a 2011 and yet i still prefer by far my 8350


*Why is that and what are you doing?*

I know these CPU do very well running windows, so, unless the intel chips crap $20's or something, I can't see them doing much better. Really, it's my systems general performance that holds my hand at outright replacing this CPU.

*What games are you playing?*

There are many games that I have, which run great. I can't think of examples off hand, but, I've noticed that side scrollers seem to do very well.

*Multi-tasking is a strong point without a doubt.*

I've already ran this CPU through some tougher scenarios since getting that 2nd monitor. Last night, I was making a video of this game I'm playing. I had it running in the back ground, while I watched takes, doing some other things, and never missed a beat.

*Where is it that you feel these chips exceed intel?*

*I'm starting to think, my ol'lady will have to pry this 2nd monitor out of my cold, dead hands. We'll get her a different one.







It's just too gangsta.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> *Why is that and what are you doing?*
> *I'm starting to think, my ol'lady will have to pry this 2nd monitor out of my cold, dead hands. We'll get her a different one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just too gangsta.










There you go!!


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> *I'm starting to think, my ol'lady will have to pry this 2nd monitor out of my cold, dead hands. We'll get her a different one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's just too gangsta.


told you you needed that 2nd monitor.

this guy did an excellent benchmark of the i5 vs FX 8320

http://www.overclock.net/t/1458927/home-review-amd-fx-8320-4-5-vs-intel-3570k-4-5

watch out, more monitors becomes addictive:



cheers!


----------



## Chargeit

Cool, I'll check it out in a min, bout to eat.

Yea, this 2nd monitor just looks too good sitting here. Also, having extra desktop space is too sweet.

*Is that you're set up? Really pimp man.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Cool, I'll check it out in a min, bout to eat.
> 
> Yea, this 2nd monitor just looks too good sitting here. Also, having extra desktop space is too sweet.
> 
> *Is that you're set up? Really pimp man.


yep

pretty soon you will be wanting eyefinity !

my next jump is 6 monitors !

and were those questions you want me to answer?


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my next jump is 6 monitors !


you know, in a way I'm glad that's not an option for me with Nvidia


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yep
> 
> pretty soon you will be wanting eyefinity !
> 
> my next jump is 6 monitors !
> 
> and were those questions you want me to answer?


Damn, I really hope not man. I'll try to keep to 3 (and one for temps)... If I can.









Yea, I was just curious why you preferred using this CPU, over your intel. Do the games you play run better, general system performance, or type of work you do?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> you know, in a way I'm glad that's not an option for me with Nvidia


The problem being, that won't stop you from changing GPU


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yep
> 
> pretty soon you will be wanting eyefinity !
> 
> my next jump is 6 monitors !
> 
> and were those questions you want me to answer?
> 
> 
> 
> Damn, I really hope not man. I'll try to keep to 3 (and one for temps)... If I can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, I was just curious why you preferred using this CPU, over your intel. Do the games you play run better, general system performance, or type of work you do?
Click to expand...

i spent a very short time ocing my intel, never oced intel before and it took me ~ 2 hours to find a stable oc, and the max,
the fx took me months no joke and i know i can go higher i just need more time !

so
1 much more fun

most recent intel revisions that i know of, has been a play off the old ach. where as they are using ideas of amd, because even though being smaller company has changed the pc world very dramatically and although it took a while for them to be used, they are used not only widespread but even by intel ( x64, on die memory controller just to name 2 ) but look how wide spread they became, and to boot how long did it really take to take off.
we are already seeing the 8350 smash i7s in some programs mainly rendering and encoding/ video / pic editing

so that would be my #1 ( i do some minor rendering )

all the fanbois ( or anti fanbois ) would like you to believe that intels all smash the 8350 in any area that they can find, so even a few more fps ( you really think you can see 5-10 fps with your naked eye ?) they look at how amd has the lower min fps and cry look they suck ! i can tell you they dont, yes some games may be slightly more viable. but most are not and my game play is fine on either system.

also to the skyrim people, there is a way to make your cpu compatable ( or so i am told ) with the style of programing that program uses and it is free if you want you can ask @Durquavian ( iirc if not sorry )


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> The problem being, that won't stop you from changing GPU


I originally bought one Black Friday LG monitor to do surround with my Dell but because I failed to read the specs for Nvidia surround, I later found out I needed 3 monitors... So back to the store for another monitor









Finally, I had the 3 monitors, and because its hard to show diagnostics info without a secondary monitor (the 3 bond together to act as one) as you found out, I needed yet ANOTHER monitor which is just a cheapo.

Also, i forgot to mention, the center monitor goes to a HDMI splitter(and 35' HDMI cable) to a HDTV which you can't see. This is so I can play PC games laying in bed as if it was a gaming console.

(5 monitors total) I promise, no more monitors.

Also, one very important reason to keep Nvidia is because my Christmas present was the Nvidia Shield, which only streams from select Nvidia GPUs...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I was just curious why you preferred using this CPU, over your intel. Do the games you play run better, general system performance, or type of work you do?


for me, i already had an i7 3770 media center pc, so just decided to do go AMD for some for something different for my bedroom.

I like the fact that the FX has all the latest CPU extensions for VM, and Intel confuses me by leaving some off the "k" model my non "k" has, and I don't know what they are but I can't help but feel cheated somehow


----------



## Chargeit

Got you, I think I've just been unlucky enough to favor a few games that don't like AMD. Like I had said, many I have run great. Shoot, even the ones with fps drops tend to play smoothly.

Yea, he pointed me towards a link. I'll tell you, from what I could tell, it only really helps results with that benchmark. Most who used it, were saying they didn't see reworld results. Now, take anything with a grain of salt, but, I'm still looking into it.

Honestly though, Skyrim ran great the other day when I made the videos. Even when it was dropping, it was smooth. I guess kicking my oc up a made a difference. Also, I'm getting less heat, so, it's been a win on that.

I'll try it later however, from what I've read so far, it's a temporary thing, which has to be turned on and off.


----------



## Mega Man

well imaging what would happen if you got it to 4.7 ! ( i admit i have never ran it below for gaming )


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> most recent intel revisions that i know of, has been a play off the old ach. where as they are using ideas of amd, because even though being smaller company has changed the pc world very dramatically and although it took a while for them to be used, they are used not only widespread but even by intel ( x64, on die memory controller just to name 2 ) but look how wide spread they became, and to boot how long did it really take to take off.


intel was spinning their wheels with netburst architecture until K7 came along made them rethink their entire architecture.

and there was that one time Intel was trying to push everyone to ITitanic (IA-64) and AMD had to skool them on a 64bit version of their own instruction set - x64

EDIT: oops, sorry you said x64


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well imaging what would happen if you got it to 4.7 ! ( i admit i have never ran it below for gaming )


Sadly I don't have the cooling for it. I can get it to 4.6, but, it gets too hot. I think the performance even suffers at 4.6 (without maxing out my fans) compared to 4.5 or below because of it. I really wish I could of got the H110, instead of the H100i. It just wouldn't work in my case. (The worst part was, the H110 was on sale for 10 bucks less)

I can run at 4.5, but, it can still get hotter than I like. At my current oc of 4.4, I usually max out at 47c, 50c if I'm pushing it, and the room is hot.

Oh, I'm in the clear on the monitor. =D Lol, I went up to my ol'lady while she was gaming, and said, "It sure is nice having that 2nd monitor. I'm doing all kinds of stuff with the extra work space." She knew. So yea, we'll get her another one. I'll make sure the next one I get her is different from the current ones I have. =D Can't clash. She's a good sport.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Oh, I'm in the clear on the monitor. =D Lol, I went up to my ol'lady while she was gaming, and said, "It sure is nice having that 2nd monitor. I'm doing all kinds of stuff with the extra work space." She knew. So yea, we'll get her another one. I'll make sure the next one I get her is different from the current ones I have. =D Can't clash. She's a good sport.










God one!!








I wish I had your budget lol I have a 23" with 3 scratches on it!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> God one!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I had your budget lol I have a 23" with 3 scratches on it!


Lol, yea, I kind put the hints out there a few times.

Trust me, the budget isn't that great, I'm just good at saving, and really don't have many vices anymore. Other than bills, I don't have much else to waste money on. It also helps that both my ol'lady and I work, and we don't have kids.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well imaging what would happen if you got it to 4.7 ! ( i admit i have never ran it below for gaming )
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly I don't have the cooling for it. I can get it to 4.6, but, it gets too hot. I think the performance even suffers at 4.6 (without maxing out my fans) compared to 4.5 or below because of it. I really wish I could of got the H110, instead of the H100i. It just wouldn't work in my case. (The worst part was, the H110 was on sale for 10 bucks less)
> 
> I can run at 4.5, but, it can still get hotter than I like. At my current oc of 4.4, I usually max out at 47c, 50c if I'm pushing it, and the room is hot.
> 
> Oh, I'm in the clear on the monitor. =D Lol, I went up to my ol'lady while she was gaming, and said, "It sure is nice having that 2nd monitor. I'm doing all kinds of stuff with the extra work space." She knew. So yea, we'll get her another one. I'll make sure the next one I get her is different from the current ones I have. =D Can't clash. She's a good sport.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> God one!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I had your budget lol I have a 23" with 3 scratches on it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, yea, I kind put the hints out there a few times.
> 
> Trust me, the budget isn't that great, I'm just good at saving, and really don't have many vices anymore. Other than bills, I don't have much else to waste money on. It also helps that both my ol'lady and I work, and we don't have kids.
Click to expand...

yea me either, but her clock... started semi clicking ....

in related news this might interest you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyadCK*
> 
> Hey guys, guess what:
> 
> 
> I found first proof, I win. And yes, it did come out today.


----------



## Chargeit

That's interesting.

I don't have CCC installed.

Ummm. I hadn't really put much thought into it, but, I can install overdrive, without CCC right? Since I don't have a AMD GPU anymore.

Does this mean these chips take up to 72c? If so that does open up some options. I mean from what I understood, it was 62 cpu, 72 socket. I have to admit, I'm still reluctant to run my chip that high, because of general temps, but, it's cool to know you can, and would open the door to more oc testing.


----------



## Mega Man

yes


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes


So is it yes the to max temp being 72 also? That's pretty cool if so. I mean it wasn't miss reading, or telling socket temps?


----------



## Mega Man

no one knows yet in the 83xx thread some think it goes off of socket temps


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no one knows yet in the 83xx thread some think it goes off of socket temps


Ah, what I was thinking too. It would be nice if they made it clear, what the temp was based off of. I'd assume CPU, but, I thought AMD said it was 62c. I mean, that has been the max from basically every source.

It doesn't really matter that much to me right now, since I like my temps where they are, but, it would be nice knowing I can try and push my oc a little more. I'm also sure many others would like that extra headroom.

It's late, I've got to get some sleep. =/

Peace, hopefully we find out that the 62c was incorrect this whole time, and 72 is the max. =D


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Lol, yea, I kind put the hints out there a few times.
> 
> Trust me, the budget isn't that great, I'm just good at saving, and really don't have many vices anymore. Other than bills, I don't have much else to waste money on. It also helps that both my ol'lady and I work, and we don't have kids.


Oh that works then...I am single and I saved some $$$ for when I moved and quit my job but now the coffers are empty so I really need incomes asap!


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> That's interesting.
> I don't have CCC installed.
> Ummm. I hadn't really put much thought into it, but, I can install overdrive, without CCC right? Since I don't have a AMD GPU anymore.


Ugh!! I had something from AMD installed, don't remember if it was Overdrive but for some reason it installed CCC and I had an app called Fuel.Service.exe running and it was making my system crash a lot...found how to eliminate it and no more crashes!


----------



## Mega Man

amd fuel

but yea it works without issue on mine


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> amd fuel
> 
> but yea it works without issue on mine


Yes but you are running AMD cards, I have nvidia and it creates conflicts


----------



## Chargeit

I'm not that worried about overdrive. I can still look at my temps though the programs I use.

I'm just going to keep assuming that it's 62. I wouldn't go up as high as 72 anyway. I feel like my current temps, make for the best total system health. Nothing overheats. Also, at the current settings things seem to run pretty well, even when not getting 60 fps. There are far less noticeable skips and the such when fps drops.

I know how it is. I've been broke as hell many times a long the way myself. Like I said, it might seem like I'm buying a lot of stuff, but, most of it is broken up. I can't just go out and get whatever parts I want. Damn, I wish I had it like that.


----------



## frankth3frizz

does the UD7 support the 9590 out the box?


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'm not that worried about overdrive. I can still look at my temps though the programs I use.
> 
> I'm just going to keep assuming that it's 62. I wouldn't go up as high as 72 anyway. I feel like my current temps, make for the best total system health. Nothing overheats. Also, at the current settings things seem to run pretty well, even when not getting 60 fps. There are far less noticeable skips and the such when fps drops.
> 
> I know how it is. I've been broke as hell many times a long the way myself. Like I said, it might seem like I'm buying a lot of stuff, but, most of it is broken up. I can't just go out and get whatever parts I want. Damn, I wish I had it like that.


Yeah mine doesn't go beyond 46C in FSX @4.365, I am quite happy with that. But even at that speed I still have rendering issues and pauses...this sim was coded for a cray supercomputer !








Well, if things pick up I will be able to add a GTX 660 and probably a decent ASUS 24" monitor and the SSD.
I don't know why that when our imcomes are decent we spend it all and then we end up with a much lower income and we think we can still spend lol


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frankth3frizz*
> 
> does the UD7 support the 9590 out the box?


Isn't it listed on Newegg as supported. The UD5 also.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah mine doesn't go beyond 46C in FSX @4.365, I am quite happy with that. But even at that speed I still have rendering issues and pauses...this sim was coded for a cray supercomputer !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, if things pick up I will be able to add a GTX 660 and probably a decent ASUS 24" monitor and the SSD.
> I don't know why that when our imcomes are decent we spend it all and then we end up with a much lower income and we think we can still spend lol


I doubt a 660 would hurt the performance. I have noticed people saying it eats computers up, so not sure. I'm also assuming you've done all you can to tweak the settings.

Tell me about it man. I should be putting the money I've spent on this PC into savings or something. When I started this system, I wanted to spend about 6 - 800 for everything, about 950 or so later I had my system. Now, here I am much upgrading later, and with the price of parts I've replaced included, I'm well over 2k into this sob.

PC gaming cheap... Hell no. But damned if I don't love getting new parts.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I doubt a 660 would hurt the performance. I have noticed people saying it eats computers up, so not sure. I'm also assuming you've done all you can to tweak the settings.
> 
> Tell me about it man. I should be putting the money I've spent on this PC into savings or something. When I started this system, I wanted to spend about 6 - 800 for everything, about 950 or so later I had my system. Now, here I am much upgrading later, and with the price of parts I've replaced included, I'm well over 2k into this sob.
> 
> PC gaming cheap... Hell no. But damned if I don't love getting new parts.


Well, the 660 won't improve fps in FSX that's for sure but I will be able to use shadowplay and bump the AA settings.
Yeah, I thought I could upgrade for 600$ lol...no way in hell!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Well, the 660 won't improve fps in FSX that's for sure but I will be able to use shadowplay and bump the AA settings.
> Yeah, I thought I could upgrade for 600$ lol...no way in hell!


Sounds about right.

One problem I've noticed with shadowplay, is the extra monitor gives it issues. It records stretched out as if on the 2 monitors. I'm able to correct this with format factory, or by changing to 16:9 in VLC. Also, I think it's reliant on directX, so, if a game isn't using it, it wouldn't work. Shouldn't be an issue in most games.


----------



## ColonelPanic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> I'am staying away from that board thats confirmed now aha, unless a REV 4 I'll try to contact online resellers see if they can get it... seems like they all out of stock or something.
> 
> PS: shouldn'nt Gigabyte remove these boards from the stores already ?? and replace with Rev4 ***... risk of burning your house and they still sell it. wow, perhaps I should just boycott Gigabyte for that..


Update: Gigabyte voided my warranty due to physical damage to the PCB.
Frankly, I don't blame them; check how careful USPS was with the box.


0_o

It looks like I'm glad I purchased shipping insurance!


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColonelPanic*
> 
> Update: Gigabyte voided my warranty due to physical damage to the PCB.
> Frankly, I don't blame them; check how careful USPS was with the box.
> 
> 
> 0_o
> 
> It looks like I'm glad I purchased shipping insurance!


Uuhh Daym!

I'm personally glad I'll pick mine directly at my local shop









PS: did you order in the USA from britain (judging by the duct tape lol)


----------



## M3TAl

UPS physical damaged my old EVGA 8800gt sent in for RMA. Had to file a claim. Got $100 out of it and spent it on a 5770.

Had problems with almost every nvidia card I've had. That was enough dead nvidia cards for me. Sure I'll try them again one day.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> UPS physical damaged my old EVGA 8800gt sent in for RMA. Had to file a claim. Got $100 out of it and spent it on a 5770.
> 
> Had problems with almost every nvidia card I've had. That was enough dead nvidia cards for me. Sure I'll try them again one day.


A long time ago when the killer computer was the commodore amiga 500. I did not have a color monitor, just a mono monitor and TVs of course. UPS broke a 1084 monitor being sent to my friend. The must have whacked it pretty good.

They paid him for the monitor(but did not take it), he game it to me(for some Taco Bell and a ride somewhere). I took out the circuit board that was split in half. Lucky for me back then they used single layer boards. I soldered back every trace until that monitor worked again. 13" fishbowl monitor


----------



## dathaeus

GA-990FXA-UD3

Anyone know how much (or how to find out) these draw in power?

Loving the 6 pci-e slots, wil sure be using them all... just wondering the best way and combo of getting 2 PSU together.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dathaeus*
> 
> Anyone know how much (or how to find out) these draw in power?.


if you have a UPS like a Cyberpower or APC it will show how many kw the PC is using. Some have a readout but you can also install the utility.

mine with 2 760s gets up to 650watt

right now its bouncing between 171 and 180 watt watching a movie and media center recording late night shows.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dathaeus*
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3
> 
> Anyone know how much (or how to find out) these draw in power?
> 
> Loving the 6 pci-e slots, wil sure be using them all... just wondering the best way and combo of getting 2 PSU together.


add2psu, please tell me you are not going to be doing quadfire?


----------



## dathaeus

No, more than that actually.

So u have an answer to the question or.......


----------



## M3TAl

Sounds like mining to me. Never messed with multiple PSU's so can't help you there.


----------



## dathaeus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> if you have a UPS like a Cyberpower or APC it will show how many kw the PC is using. Some have a readout but you can also install the utility.
> 
> mine with 2 760s gets up to 650watt
> 
> right now its bouncing between 171 and 180 watt watching a movie and media center recording late night shows.


Actually I was asking for how much power JUST the mobo takes... I know its not much but I want to know so I can make some calculations.

As far as the PSU's, ya I'll prob go with the Add2PSU thing and save myself some headache since I already have a 750W in stock and my other one in stock is a 400W, not quite enough, so I gonna buy this 600W on sale for $30, + $22, so for $52 I'll have 1350W which is pretty much perfect as long as the mobo dont take hundreds.


----------



## M3TAl

No idea, absolute complete guesstimate, somewhere around 20-30W?


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Sounds about right.
> 
> One problem I've noticed with shadowplay, is the extra monitor gives it issues. It records stretched out as if on the 2 monitors. I'm able to correct this with format factory, or by changing to 16:9 in VLC. Also, I think it's reliant on directX, so, if a game isn't using it, it wouldn't work. Shouldn't be an issue in most games.


Oh that sux about the 2 monitors but I will probably get the card a while before the second monitor.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> UPS physical damaged my old EVGA 8800gt sent in for RMA. Had to file a claim. Got $100 out of it and spent it on a 5770.
> 
> Had problems with almost every nvidia card I've had. That was enough dead nvidia cards for me. Sure I'll try them again one day.


It's funny how that works out. Personally, I've had both AMD, and Nvidia cards work out well. THe one issue I have with the Nvidia is their color range. You have to go out of your way to get full range RGB using a hdmi connection (outside program). I guess they assume you're hooking it up to a tv if using HDMI. I did move to the dvi since than, and doesn't seem to be an issue.

To be honest though, I've only had 3 cards that matter (I had a bs one here and there), My first big GPU, a 6800 (cost on par with my current card), My HD 7850 (Really good card for the money), and my current GTX 780. I haven't had any true issues with any of them. You could say that Nvidia has more issues, because of the Full/limited range thing, but, most wouldn't noticed such a thing.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Oh that sux about the 2 monitors but I will probably get the card a while before the second monitor.


Yea, you'll just have to set the ratio manually, when watching the clip, or when converting it. It sucks, but, I know shadowplay is still fairly new.

*It only has that issue when recorded in windowed mode. For some reason, the game I was recording, counts as being in windowed mode, even though it's not. I didn't have the aspect issue with SKyrim.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> It's funny how that works out. Personally, I've had both AMD, and Nvidia cards work out well. THe one issue I have with the Nvidia is their color range. You have to go out of your way to get full range RGB using a hdmi connection (outside program). I guess they assume you're hooking it up to a tv if using HDMI. I did move to the dvi since than, and doesn't seem to be an issue.
> 
> To be honest though, I've only had 3 cards that matter (I had a bs one here and there), My first big GPU, a 6800 (cost on par with my current card), My HD 7850 (Really good card for the money), and my current GTX 780. I haven't had any true issues with any of them. You could say that Nvidia has more issues, because of the Full/limited range thing, but, most wouldn't noticed such a thing.


Ya almost every ATI card my buddy had died, and right after warranty. Then again think he always bought Powercolor or some other brand with like a 1 year warranty so...

BFG 6800 OC fan broke had to RMA. EVGA 7900GT KO died, had to RMA. Gave me an 8800GT. That died too and always ran 80-90C too. Oh and I got a free 9600 GT from a promo for BFG. That card never worked properly from day 1. Worked in 2D but crashed in 3D every time.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ya almost every ATI card my buddy had died, and right after warranty. Then again think he always bought Powercolor or some other brand with like a 1 year warranty so...
> 
> BFG 6800 OC fan broke had to RMA. EVGA 7900GT KO died, had to RMA. Gave me an 8800GT. That died too and always ran 80-90C too. Oh and I got a free 9600 GT from a promo for BFG. That card never worked properly from day 1. Worked in 2D but crashed in 3D every time.


My 6800 died on me after, shoot, 4 or 5 years. Most likely the fan I'd guess, at the time, I just replaced it with some cheap card, that sucked compared to it. That surprised me, considering how old my 6800 was. I guess I should of looked into it better, but, I was replacing a GPU in a computer that was way past due. I don't remember what the card was.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> My 6800 died on me after, shoot, 4 or 5 years. Most likely the fan I'd guess, at the time, I just replaced it with some cheap card, that sucked compared to it. That surprised me, considering how old my 6800 was. I guess I should of looked into it better, but, I was replacing a GPU in a computer that was way past due. I don't remember what the card was.


Yikes 4-5 years is quite good!








My last cpu was an Athlon II X2 250 and boy did it sucked! And that casing was dirt cheap with old school fan plugs and I was never able to OC it not even the slightest!









I am not sure If I mentionned this but the day I got my new 6300, after 2min of unpacking it I dropped it on the mobo and damaged quite a lot of fins!







So I had to order a new one!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yikes 4-5 years is quite good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My last cpu was an Athlon II X2 250 and boy did it sucked! And that casing was dirt cheap with old school fan plugs and I was never able to OC it not even the slightest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure If I mentionned this but the day I got my new 6300, after 2min of unpacking it I dropped it on the mobo and damaged quite a lot of fins!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I had to order a new one!


Yea, and what really killed it, was where I lived at the time. I had moved to a location that was really dusty, and the AC was crap. So, after a few months of living there, my GPU just couldn't take it anymore. God, I want to say I ran it well over 100c for a long while. Unless I'm remembering Fahrenheit, though, I don't think so. To be honest, had I not moved to that location, it might of lasted another year or two easy. No dust, and new AC at our current residence, lots of cat hair, but, that's why I took the guest bedroom over as my computer room. Ain't no cats gett'en up in here... Always a dog however, she's cool though.

Some times you can just put the fins where they need to go in the socket. Though, I don't like the idea myself, it can work.


----------



## ebduncan

I bought a 6870 reference card back when they were first released, to replace a ATI 4870. I ran the 6870 for 2 years no issues. I sold the card locally and the new owner is still running the same card to this day. I even mined bitcoin on it.

I've yet to have a ATI/AMD card die on me. Then again I haven't had a Nvidia card die on me either. I actually haven't owned a Nvida card for a LONG time. My last one was a 8800Ultra which ran fine and was one pricey piece of hardware when I got it.

I don't see myself going to another Nvidia card for awhile, unless they come out with something that stomps the AMD cards in games and in mining.


----------



## Chargeit

Main reason I got this 780, was because the prices of the 290, and 290x were still insane. To be honest, it has a lot of features that I'm really happy with, such as Shadowplay, and the built in graphics options. It has been a great card. I can't speak for its longevity however, since I've only had it for a month or two.

Honestly, I'll most likely upgrade long before its lifespan becomes an issue. Though, at least for now, I don't see any immediate need to.

I picked up Arma 2 off the humble bundle last night. I paid $6 so that I'd get expansion pack required for the Dayz mod. I noticed it uses some cheat protection system, "Battleye", how is that compared to "PunkBusta"? I refuse to allow PunkBusta onto my system, and even deleted all of the FarCry games because of it. Is it like PunkBusta, where in it's always on, scanning your system? I'd like to know before installing it. If so, than screw Dayz, I really only wanted to check it out. I've found the Arma 2 single player pretty cool, from what I've seen. I like the create a mission.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yikes 4-5 years is quite good!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My last cpu was an Athlon II X2 250 and boy did it sucked! And that casing was dirt cheap with old school fan plugs and I was never able to OC it not even the slightest!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not sure If I mentionned this but the day I got my new 6300, after 2min of unpacking it I dropped it on the mobo and damaged quite a lot of fins!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I had to order a new one!
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, and what really killed it, was where I lived at the time. I had moved to a location that was really dusty, and the AC was crap. So, after a few months of living there, my GPU just couldn't take it anymore. God, I want to say I ran it well over 100c for a long while. Unless I'm remembering Fahrenheit, though, I don't think so. To be honest, had I not moved to that location, it might of lasted another year or two easy. No dust, and new AC at our current residence, lots of cat hair, but, that's why I took the guest bedroom over as my computer room. Ain't no cats gett'en up in here... Always a dog however, she's cool though.
> 
> Some times you can just put the fins where they need to go in the socket. Though, I don't like the idea myself, it can work.
Click to expand...

i have had ot bend back a pin or two worth a try
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Main reason I got this 780, was because the prices of the 290, and 290x were still insane. To be honest, it has a lot of features that I'm really happy with, such as Shadowplay, and the built in graphics options. It has been a great card. I can't speak for its longevity however, since I've only had it for a month or two.
> 
> Honestly, I'll most likely upgrade long before its lifespan becomes an issue. Though, at least for now, I don't see any immediate need to.
> 
> I picked up Arma 2 off the humble bundle last night. I paid $6 so that I'd get expansion pack required for the Dayz mod. I noticed it uses some cheat protection system, "Battleye", how is that compared to "PunkBusta"? I refuse to allow PunkBusta onto my system, and even deleted all of the FarCry games because of it. Is it like PunkBusta, where in it's always on, scanning your system? I'd like to know before installing it. If so, than screw Dayz, I really only wanted to check it out. I've found the Arma 2 single player pretty cool, from what I've seen. I like the create a mission.


why dont oyu like it if i may ask

http://www.battleye.com/ sounds the same to me


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, and what really killed it, was where I lived at the time. I had moved to a location that was really dusty, and the AC was crap. So, after a few months of living there, my GPU just couldn't take it anymore. God, I want to say I ran it well over 100c for a long while. Unless I'm remembering Fahrenheit, though, I don't think so. To be honest, had I not moved to that location, it might of lasted another year or two easy. No dust, and new AC at our current residence, lots of cat hair, but, that's why I took the guest bedroom over as my computer room. Ain't no cats gett'en up in here... Always a dog however, she's cool though.
> 
> Some times you can just put the fins where they need to go in the socket. Though, I don't like the idea myself, it can work.


Yikes 100C you can boil water!








Well, I had probably 20 fins damaged so nothing much could be done


----------



## Mega Man

still worth a shot


----------



## Chargeit

Because, Punkbusta is always on, scanning your memory for what it considers a cheat, even when you're not in game. That's intrusive as hell if you ask me. I don't play a lot of multiplayer games, so, in the 99.999% of the time I'm doing single player, or watching youtube or something, it's there, running for no reason. Shoot, to remove it, I had delete it, and then go into registry and remove left over bits. On top of all of that, it doesn't mention that it's installing, it just does it.

At least that Battleye had the common courtesy of saying it wanted to install. Also, I can still play the game without it installed, I'm assuming just not online. FarCry 3, will install punkbusta every time it starts, without saying anything.

I don't know man, I'm kind of old school I guess. I don't like things running 24/7 without reason, and, installing themselves without permission. It's lame that I could go torrent FarCry 3 right now, and have it run without Punkbusta, but, if I buy it, I'm forced to not only log into Uplay, but run what is more or less spyware.

I don't trust it.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yikes 100C you can boil water!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I had probably 20 fins damaged so nothing much could be done


Yea, if I knew then, what I know now. I bought the system made, since I was lazy, and making way too much money at the time. The case it came in looked cool, well, for the time, but, I doubt its airflow was there. I know the CPU had a stock heatsink, just bs. I'm sure the PSU was junk. I wish I could get my hands on the system again, and pimp it out.

You should of tried. Bend them suckers back into place, and put the ones the broke off, into the slot they're suppose to go in. Do you still have that CPU?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Because, Punkbusta is always on, scanning your memory for what it considers a cheat, even when you're not in game. That's intrusive as hell if you ask me. I don't play a lot of multiplayer games, so, in the 99.999% of the time I'm doing single player, or watching youtube or something, it's there, running for no reason. Shoot, to remove it, I had delete it, and then go into registry and remove left over bits. On top of all of that, it doesn't mention that it's installing, it just does it.
> 
> At least that Battleye had the common courtesy of saying it wanted to install. Also, I can still play the game without it installed, I'm assuming just not online. FarCry 3, will install punkbusta every time it starts, without saying anything.
> 
> I don't know man, I'm kind of old school I guess. I don't like things running 24/7 without reason, and, installing themselves without permission. It's lame that I could go torrent FarCry 3 right now, and have it run without Punkbusta, but, if I buy it, I'm forced to not only log into Uplay, but run what is more or less spyware.
> 
> I don't trust it.


100% understand and agree, but if you want to bad enough
you can use a 32gb chip unplug your main hdd ( one plus to using a hdd quick loader ) and only running farcry/ any other of those games on it


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, if I knew then, what I know now. I bought the system made, since I was lazy, and making way too much money at the time. The case it came in looked cool, well, for the time, but, I doubt its airflow was there. I know the CPU had a stock heatsink, just bs. I'm sure the PSU was junk. I wish I could get my hands on the system again, and pimp it out.
> 
> You should of tried. Bend them suckers back into place, and put the ones the broke off, into the slot they're suppose to go in. Do you still have that CPU?


Yeah my old athlon had default heat sink/fan and I had a GeForce 6800GS in it!









Yeah I still have that cpu but you need microcospic tools to reposition those fins lol...tried with a toothpick, it would correct some but then it would bend others!









I don't know if there are places that can fix that? It's still a freakin new CPU that I could use as a spare!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 100% understand and agree, but if you want to bad enough
> you can use a 32gb chip unplug your main hdd ( one plus to using a hdd quick loader ) and only running farcry/ any other of those games on it


It's cool. I'll just skip on ubisoft games from now on. It is frustrating that such things happen though. It should only require you to install punkbusta if playing online.

I'm to blame for it as well, since I should of looked deeper into it. However, I had FarCry 2 installed, and even though it's listed as punkbusta (I late found out), I don't think it installed. But than again, it didn't require uplay.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, if I knew then, what I know now. I bought the system made, since I was lazy, and making way too much money at the time. The case it came in looked cool, well, for the time, but, I doubt its airflow was there. I know the CPU had a stock heatsink, just bs. I'm sure the PSU was junk. I wish I could get my hands on the system again, and pimp it out.
> 
> You should of tried. Bend them suckers back into place, and put the ones the broke off, into the slot they're suppose to go in. Do you still have that CPU?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah my old athlon had default heat sink/fan and I had a GeForce 6800GS in it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I still have that cpu but you need microcospic tools to reposition those fins lol...tried with a toothpick, it would correct some but then it would bend others!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if there are places that can fix that? It's still a freakin new CPU that I could use as a spare!
Click to expand...

what i do is i line of site them with a plastic knife using the other pins as a guide when it can go into the socket without force it is ready


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I picked up Arma 2 off the humble bundle last night. I paid $6 so that I'd get expansion pack required for the Dayz mod. I noticed it uses some cheat protection system, "Battleye", how is that compared to "PunkBusta"? I refuse to allow PunkBusta onto my system, and even deleted all of the FarCry games because of it. Is it like PunkBusta, where in it's always on, scanning your system? I'd like to know before installing it. If so, than screw Dayz, I really only wanted to check it out. I've found the Arma 2 single player pretty cool, from what I've seen. I like the create a mission.


Nice about ArmaII...did you try both ArmaII and Operation Arrowhead?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah my old athlon had default heat sink/fan and I had a GeForce 6800GS in it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I still have that cpu but you need microcospic tools to reposition those fins lol...tried with a toothpick, it would correct some but then it would bend others!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know if there are places that can fix that? It's still a freakin new CPU that I could use as a spare!


No clue. You could always call up a repair shop, but I doubt they'd do it. Most likely it would remain busted, and cost you more than it's worth.

http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-Bent-Pins-on-a-CPU

Bend them in place as best you can, and than do what they mentioned above. Put any broken ones into the socket.

It's worth a shot, and not like you'll be out of money if you can't fix it. It's already busted.







You can do no more harm.

*I'll never use a stock heatsink again, not even if I never plan on OCIng.

***One page I read suggested a jeweler, still likely very expensive, assuming they'd do it. And all that would do is get the pins bent back into place. (Here's you CPU sir, that will be $300)


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice about ArmaII...did you try both ArmaII and Operation Arrowhead?


I've installed them both, but only played Arma 2.

I can play them both, without installing the "Battleye", I just don't think I can play online, or on servers that require it.

Shoot man, it's on the humble bundle right now. You can get Arma 2 for a dollar. You need to get the 6 dollar one to play Dayz, but, if you don't have the main game already, it looks like a cool game for a dollar, also there's 2 other ones at that price range, something about a helicopter, and a RTS. I love me some humble bundles.

https://www.humblebundle.com/weekly

*Oh, you get 6 games for a dollar.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> No clue. You could always call up a repair shop, but I doubt they'd do it. Most likely it would remain busted, and cost you more than it's worth.
> 
> http://www.wikihow.com/Fix-Bent-Pins-on-a-CPU
> 
> Bend them in place as best you can, and than do what they mentioned above. Put any broken ones into the socket.
> 
> It's worth a shot, and not like you'll be out of money if you can't fix it. It's already busted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can do no more harm.
> 
> *I'll never use a stock heatsink again, not even if I never plan on OCIng.
> 
> ***One page I read suggested a jeweler, still likely very expensive, assuming they'd do it. And all that would do is get the pins bent back into place. (Here's you CPU sir, that will be $300)










Good one about the jeweler!!








I'll take a pic of the cpu to show you guys, the fins look like they got a permanent!








Same for me, never ever stock heatsink and cooling!!


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I've installed them both, but only played Arma 2.
> 
> I can play them both, without installing the "Battleye", I just don't think I can play online, or on servers that require it.
> 
> Shoot man, it's on the humble bundle right now. You can get Arma 2 for a dollar. You need to get the 6 dollar one to play Dayz, but, if you don't have the main game already, it looks like a cool game for a dollar, also there's 2 other ones at that price range, something about a helicopter, and a RTS. I love me some humble bundles.
> 
> https://www.humblebundle.com/weekly
> 
> *Oh, you get 6 games for a dollar.


Pretty good deal then! Seems that the humble bundle has matured into something quite great!


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, man. Shoot, I got the goty editions of the first 2 batman games, and all 3 fear games a few months back. I had to pay 5 bucks or so to get everything... I'd say worth it. Even though I haven't played any of them, and already beat the 2nd batman game... It's still cool to have.

Man, I had to finally pull my laptops battery. The thing killed on me a few times, than, putting it into sleep would kill it. I pulled the battery, and it goes into sleep, and ran 30 min of prime95. Seems like it was the issue. I had know that for awhile, but just got around to messing with it, since it killing when going to sleep was too much. The poor old thing. I'd be lost without it. I don't use my gaming system for anything but games, and youtube. I have used it to convert videos I take with shadowplay, but, point is, most of my general computing is done on this here laptop. Any time I'm on this site, it's on my laptop.

Ol'Betsy has some life left... Even if she ain't getting there like she used to.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, man. Shoot, I got the goty editions of the first 2 batman games, and all 3 fear games a few months back. I had to pay 5 bucks or so to get everything... I'd say worth it. Even though I haven't played any of them, and already beat the 2nd batman game... It's still cool to have.
> 
> Man, I had to finally pull my laptops battery. The thing killed on me a few times, than, putting it into sleep would kill it. I pulled the battery, and it goes into sleep, and ran 30 min of prime95. Seems like it was the issue. I had know that for awhile, but just got around to messing with it, since it killing when going to sleep was too much. The poor old thing. I'd be lost without it. I don't use my gaming system for anything but games, and youtube. I have used it to convert videos I take with shadowplay, but, point is, most of my general computing is done on this here laptop. Any time I'm on this site, it's on my laptop.
> 
> Ol'Betsy has some life left... Even if she ain't getting there like she used to.


I guess it's time for Ol'Betsy to go to sleep!








I know the feeling, I had a second system a long while ago that was for browsing while my primary was doing some rendering and all of the sudden the HD failed miserably with a lot of noise!
I can't even count the times that I was up late and lost a LOT of valuable things because of mistakes! We rely on those things so much it's incredible!


----------



## Chargeit

Yea man. It's like losing a old friend when a old rig goes on you.

I've backed up all of my data to the gaming rig already. I don't think it's an issue though, I just needed to pull the battery. I'm not going to replace it, since I see no reason. I keep the laptop plugged in 24/7 anyway.


----------



## GroovyMotion

good thing...but some laptop can survive a long time without any battery if it's plugged! Speaking of laptops there is one that is fairly old that is collecting dust, I should set it up so I can use it!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> good thing...but some laptop can survive a long time without any battery if it's plugged! Speaking of laptops there is one that is fairly old that is collecting dust, I should set it up so I can use it!


Yea, my damned laptop killed again.

It sucks, I was 99% that the issue had to do with the battery. I assumed there were point where it was going for the battery, and not getting power needed, so it shut down.

I'm at a loss. Other than something to do with what ever handles power inside of the laptop, I can't think of anything that would cause a total loss of power. Basically, the only other possible problems, are critical.

Well, like I said, I've backed up important data, and, could pull things off the hdd if it does decide to not want to start.

What's odd, is it doesn't do it doing things I'd think would cause it to lose power, such as in that prime95 test. I only did 30 min, but I'd think that would be enough time to figure out if there are issues with the systems power.

I'll test it more later, I already put together a "APU" build. If it comes down to it, I'll have to make myself an APU, or get another laptop.


----------



## Mega Man

is it possible your cpu fan ( rather the only hs fan it has ) is starting to die and cutting out


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, my damned laptop killed again.
> 
> It sucks, I was 99% that the issue had to do with the battery. I assumed there were point where it was going for the battery, and not getting power needed, so it shut down.
> 
> I'm at a loss. Other than something to do with what ever handles power inside of the laptop, I can't think of anything that would cause a total loss of power. Basically, the only other possible problems, are critical.
> 
> Well, like I said, I've backed up important data, and, could pull things off the hdd if it does decide to not want to start.
> 
> What's odd, is it doesn't do it doing things I'd think would cause it to lose power, such as in that prime95 test. I only did 30 min, but I'd think that would be enough time to figure out if there are issues with the systems power.
> 
> I'll test it more later, I already put together a "APU" build. If it comes down to it, I'll have to make myself an APU, or get another laptop.


Ah that sux!








Thing about laptops is that they are closed and they don't have a lot of room so anything can happen. Could be heat or the mobo dying?! How old is the laptop?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Ah that sux!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thing about laptops is that they are closed and they don't have a lot of room so anything can happen. Could be heat or the mobo dying?! How old is the laptop?


I've had it 3 years I think. The issue is, I used it as a kind of makeshift HTPC for awhile. I think it's just its time to go, since I had left it running so much.

Now I know it isn't heat issues, since I cleaned it about 6 months ago, fresh thermal paste, soaked the fan in alcohol and all.

It does suck, there isn't much you can do about some of the parts failing. It isn't worth it anyway, since it's fairly old by computer standards.

Once it does kill, I'll have to look into making an APU, though, I do like having a laptop, since you can drag them with you if you take a trip. I might just replace it with a new laptop, would cost around the same (5 - 600ish with the OS). I'd prefer to make a APU, but, it's hard to replace the convenience of a laptop.


----------



## Chargeit

I think I've figured it out.

My laptop can pass Prime95 Small FFTS, but fails within 7 minutes of memetest86.

So, I'm thinking I have a bad stick of ram. THough, I didn't think ram would cause a total power failure like it has been doing. Ram would explain however, why it had issues going into sleep.

I mean, I don't know. If it were simply a power issue, I wouldn't expect it to take over 30 min of Prime95 Small FFTS.

It's still odd to me that ram would cause it to just lose all power. I'd expect it to blue screen.

I'm going to run some more tests. I'd really like to keep this thing around. I do have to admit, some new ram would be welcomed, but, not if it isn't the real issue.

***I was able to shut it down running heaven (as sad example btw). I got a msg about the display drivers stopped responding, than it lost power.


----------



## MadGoat

if the laptop's video card shares system ram, then you have found your culprit...


----------



## GroovyMotion

Yeah probably your RAM that killed it...especially if it's shared, which I am pretty sure it is since it's 3 years old. Yeah it's nice to have a laptop, heck I'd love to have one like my brother in-law, he has an asus ROG this thing is overkill!! But, it cost 1600$ on special...ouch!
Maybe you can get a laptop on ebay, new but a model that's discontinued? Sometimes they go for dirt cheap!


----------



## Chargeit

OK, I sat the ram again to see if that would help.

I ran heaven and failed again. System power loss.

When I rebooted I gave the mem test another go. This time it ran 2 hours, I than shut that off.

I started up windows, and it killed before entering windows.

I tried again, and the same thing happened.

I let it sit for about 10 min, and now I'm back in windows. That sounds like heat. The thing is, the temps don't get crazy for a laptop. Running that mem test, it maxed at 68c. That should be within the thermal range. During prime95 it hits about 73c max.

I'm going to have to pull each stick next, and see what's happens. That can wait until tomorrow though.

*I let the laptop sit all night, with everything disabled power savings wise. I didn't allow it to sleep, the screen to dim, turn off, or a screen saver. It stayed on all night with no issue.

Has to be the ram. I wanted to be pretty sure, since it's 75 bucks for the ram I'm looking at.

*G.SKILL 8GB (2 x 4GB) 204-Pin DDR3 (1333)*
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231295

From what I can tell, I can't alter the ram speed in my bios, so, 1333 is the best I can give it. 8 gb is the max ram it will take. I mean, 75 bucks isn't bad, it's just money I'd prefer to spend somewhere else, but, I'm not going to let my laptop crap out over 75 bucks.

I could just get 4gb like was in here, but, I might as well make it a full upgrade.

*I ordered the ram.* If it doesn't end up being the issue, I can put this ram in my ol'ladys laptop. Also, I have a laptop laying around that's about a year or two older than this one, if it will take DDR3, I could put the ram in it.


----------



## Heavy MG

Hi,just got myself a 990FXA-UD3 revision 4,upgraded from my old 890GX based board in my signature,haven't bothered to change it yet.

With the new 990FXA-UD3 ,my 1090T now ides at 40C at stock speed. I uninstalled the old drivers,and got the latest ones from AMD,Gigabyte,etc. I also remounted my 212evo 2 times,no change in temps. I was hoping the 990 board would run better than the 890gx since it's 8+2 phase vs. 4+1.
I did not do a fresh Windows install,would it fix my problem,or do these series of boards with UEFI run better with Win 8.1?


----------



## M3TAl

Well did your old idle downclock? 40C seems like a idle OC temp as in 4 GHz+ 1.45V+. If it is downclocking and running 40C then there's a serious problem.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I could just get 4gb like was in here, but, I might as well make it a full upgrade.
> 
> *I ordered the ram.* If it doesn't end up being the issue, I can put this ram in my ol'ladys laptop. Also, I have a laptop laying around that's about a year or two older than this one, if it will take DDR3, I could put the ram in it.


That's an option!








Let's hope it was only the RAM and your golden!


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well did your old idle downclock? 40C seems like a idle OC temp as in 4 GHz+ 1.45V+. If it is downclocking and running 40C then there's a serious problem.


The chip used to idle well,down to about 34-36C with a 3.8Ghz OC/2800Mhz NB,all the fans in my case helped too. This 990 board does downclock down to 803Mhz,although only for a second or two,according to CPU-z,it fluctuates to 803-1600-3200 then back down. I have a defective motherboard then?


----------



## M3TAl

Wouldn't say it's defective... Maybe this board just runs a little hotter? Are the load temps in-line with what should be expected?


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Wouldn't say it's defective... Maybe this board just runs a little hotter? Are the load temps in-line with what should be expected?


I don't want to cook my chip to test p95 or anything, Load temps for BF4 were 50C,which I'd say is high for stock though,I was only getting 5-7C over that with an OC on my old board.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> That's an option!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's hope it was only the RAM and your golden!


I'm really not sure.

I know right now, it won't even go into bios without killing.

I'm really not convinced it's the ram. If it isn't, than I'm going to pull the HDD, ram, and trash it.

It's weird being on these forums on my gaming rig. Everything seems a lot larger.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*
> 
> I don't want to cook my chip to test p95 or anything, Load temps for BF4 were 50C,which I'd say is high for stock though,I was only getting 5-7C over that with an OC on my old board.


Not sure what the problem is. If it's getting the proper voltage and you cooler is mounted properly don't know why temps would be so high.


----------



## MadGoat

Have you thought about the laptop PSU brick being doomed? The battery might even be fine... But if the PSU charging it isn't giving enough juice... Ghostly things like this happen...


----------



## Heavy MG

Yeah, I think there may be something wrong with the board. I'll have to hope Newegg accepts the rma. I'm really disappointed with Gigabyte though, the revision 4 board was really hyped as a good mobo even for the 8350.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Not sure what the problem is. If it's getting the proper voltage and you cooler is mounted properly don't know why temps would be so high.


----------



## MadGoat

Its not the board...


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'm really not sure.
> 
> I know right now, it won't even go into bios without killing.
> 
> I'm really not convinced it's the ram. If it isn't, than I'm going to pull the HDD, ram, and trash it.
> 
> It's weird being on these forums on my gaming rig. Everything seems a lot larger.


Yikes that's not good!
Yeah it's nice to have real monitor screen once a while! But, I haven'y been on a laptop for a while...I miss having a second PC/laptop
I hope ol'betsy gets better soon or else it's the chipper!


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Its not the board...


I just tested the hardware in the mobo box with the old mobo and now it throttles back just fine,and isn't making my Thuban into a space heater. I've never had a problem like this with a motherboard...
If it's not the board,what else could it be though?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yikes that's not good!
> Yeah it's nice to have real monitor screen once a while! But, I haven'y been on a laptop for a while...I miss having a second PC/laptop
> I hope ol'betsy gets better soon or else it's the chipper!


Yea, it started displaying symptoms of what I'd say is overheating after ordering that ram. (freaking of course)

Now, it kills, and won't load back up until I've allowed it to fully cool down.

So, I'm going to take it apart maybe tomorrow, and redo the thermal paste on the CPU/GPU.

I'll see what that does. After what it started today, I think it's a heat issue involving the GPU. Basically, the temp I assumed to be the on board GPU, is most likely the mobo temps. The CPU temps are fine however.

Maybe when I cleaned it last time, I didn't apply the thermal paste correctly to the GPU. I just find it odd that it would take so long to become an issue.

*I got stiffed on the ram delivery, damned "DHL". I'll be lucky to see it by Monday. That's the one thing about newegg, sometimes you'll get burned on delivery, but, that's the most expensive item I've seen shipped using "DHL". I really expected UPS.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Have you thought about the laptop PSU brick being doomed? The battery might even be fine... But if the PSU charging it isn't giving enough juice... Ghostly things like this happen...


I did, though, I didn't think it was very likely.

After its latest issues, I'm now looking at overheating.

I just tried to start it without the power plugged in, and it won't load windows.

I'm just going to have to pull it apart, and do one more coat of thermal paste... Damn I don't want to do it though. (Laptops are no fun to take apart)


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*
> 
> I just tested the hardware in the mobo box with the old mobo and now it throttles back just fine,and isn't making my Thuban into a space heater. I've never had a problem like this with a motherboard...
> If it's not the board,what else could it be though?


Don't know. The power delivery is changed from 800 series boards for Bulldozer/Piledriver but I wouldn't think that would make the chip run super hot. Have you tried different LLC settings and messing around with other options in BIOS? APM or HPC maybe? Turbo Core?


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Don't know. The power delivery is changed from 800 series boards for Bulldozer/Piledriver but I wouldn't think that would make the chip run super hot. Have you tried different LLC settings and messing around with other options in BIOS? APM or HPC maybe? Turbo Core?


I can understand that these are optimized for the FX series,but I had assumed there would'nt be any huge difference. Thanks for the recommendation,I'll have a look at those settings,APM/HPC,is on "Auto" if I remember correctly. LLC is on 100% I did have Turbo Core set to disabled.
Honestly Gigabyte's UEFI isn't easy to work with,extra settings seem to be hidden in the menus.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, it started displaying symptoms of what I'd say is overheating after ordering that ram. (freaking of course)
> 
> Now, it kills, and won't load back up until I've allowed it to fully cool down.
> 
> So, I'm going to take it apart maybe tomorrow, and redo the thermal paste on the CPU/GPU.
> 
> I'll see what that does. After what it started today, I think it's a heat issue involving the GPU. Basically, the temp I assumed to be the on board GPU, is most likely the mobo temps. The CPU temps are fine however.
> 
> Maybe when I cleaned it last time, I didn't apply the thermal paste correctly to the GPU. I just find it odd that it would take so long to become an issue.
> 
> *I got stiffed on the ram delivery, damned "DHL". I'll be lucky to see it by Monday. That's the one thing about newegg, sometimes you'll get burned on delivery, but, that's the most expensive item I've seen shipped using "DHL". I really expected UPS.


Yeah it could be that, you never know! If heat is the issue bring the laptop over here it's -35C this morning!








I don't know there isn't much of DHL here, and newegg uses Purolator which is awesome! They ship from Toronto, close to the airport and even ground gets here the next day which is about a 5h30 drive!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah it could be that, you never know! If heat is the issue bring the laptop over here it's -35C this morning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know there isn't much of DHL here, and newegg uses Purolator which is awesome! They ship from Toronto, close to the airport and even ground gets here the next day which is about a 5h30 drive!


Yea, the fact that it will start window, than end up killing, and not starting until I've let it sit for a hour or so might be heat.

I'll see. If replacing the thermal paste doesn't do it. I'm not sure the ram will help it.

My ol'lady doesn't want the ram I ordered, so, I'm considering just shipping it back to newegg, next year, when it gets here.

DHL is basically newegg saying "f'u". It basically gets shipped by truck to the post office, than the mail delivers it. Because of this, there are a few days added to the delivery time. I haven't seen a DHL order get here in the same week ordered. It's the chance you take. I just hate to pay for shipping, since most of the time it does go UPS. The one time I did pay for shipping with them, was when I ordered my CPU, since it was the last part I needed to complete my build. They used the same shipping method I'd of most likely got anyway.

Hell, the laptop might not make it to the time DHL gets that ram here. If after I spend 2 hours pulling it apart, and putting it back together it doesn't do anything, I might end up going office space on it.


----------



## reeven

On UD3, 8350 after many tests i finally find that my cpu is stable in blend prime 4 hours at 1.356v minimum real LOAD voltage.
And it's better to use LLC extreme then auto, and choosing lower bios voltage like 1.29.


----------



## Auisce

Please help. Really slow USB 3 transfers.

GA-990FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.0)
FX 9370
8Gb DDR3 1866 (single stick)
Windows 7 Ulti

Seagate Backup Plus 4Tb USB 3 SuperSpeed external HDD (also adapters for FireWire 800 and Thunderbolt)

Drive is formatted as NTFS.
I'm using the cable that came with the drive.
The cable is plugged into one of the blue USB port labelled 'USB 3'.
[edit] Oh and I've tried both USB 3 ports. [edit]

But yeah, it's painfully slow.








What have I missed?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Auisce*
> 
> Please help. Really slow USB 3 transfers.
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.0)
> FX 9370
> 8Gb DDR3 1866 (single stick)
> Windows 7 Ulti
> 
> Seagate Backup Plus 4Tb USB 3 SuperSpeed external HDD (also adapters for FireWire 800 and Thunderbolt)
> 
> Drive is formatted as NTFS.
> I'm using the cable that came with the drive.
> The cable is plugged into one of the blue USB port labelled 'USB 3'.
> [edit] Oh and I've tried both USB 3 ports. [edit]
> 
> But yeah, it's painfully slow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What have I missed?


Just a shot in the dark, but, did you update the drivers for the usb 3.0 on the mobo?

I know there was something on GB website about it, but, I didn't bother reading, since I'm not using anything usb 3.0. I did however update the drivers.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, the fact that it will start window, than end up killing, and not starting until I've let it sit for a hour or so might be heat.
> 
> I'll see. If replacing the thermal paste doesn't do it. I'm not sure the ram will help it.
> 
> My ol'lady doesn't want the ram I ordered, so, I'm considering just shipping it back to newegg, next year, when it gets here.
> 
> DHL is basically newegg saying "f'u". It basically gets shipped by truck to the post office, than the mail delivers it. Because of this, there are a few days added to the delivery time. I haven't seen a DHL order get here in the same week ordered. It's the chance you take. I just hate to pay for shipping, since most of the time it does go UPS. The one time I did pay for shipping with them, was when I ordered my CPU, since it was the last part I needed to complete my build. They used the same shipping method I'd of most likely got anyway.
> 
> Hell, the laptop might not make it to the time DHL gets that ram here. If after I spend 2 hours pulling it apart, and putting it back together it doesn't do anything, I might end up going office space on it.


Oh that sux about DHL!!







good one on the office space!!


----------



## Auisce

Yeah I updated the drivers. I't currently out of its case and plugged into one of my internal sata ports, same transfer rates of around 34MB/second. That doesn't sound right to me.


----------



## M3TAl

Is this the first time to use the HDD? What were the speeds before? Maybe something wrong with the HDD?


----------



## Chargeit

I pulled my system apart, and sure enough, it was the GPU chip.

It seems like it doesn't get a good enough connection with thermal paste. The paste I had put on it, was like concrete. So, I cleaned it all off, and reapplied it to both the CPU and GPU. The cpu's paste was fine.

I think that I need a thermal pad for the GPU. It seems that with the way it's set up, without a thermal pad, it won't have the proper tightness.

Anyway, for now, I'm typing this on my laptop. I'll have to see what happens, and look into thermal pads for it.

I do have some thermal padding left over from my VRM. I'm not sure if that will work or not if this doesn't stick. I'll have to look up later.


----------



## M3TAl

Best thermal pads: Fujipoly Extreme. Just make sure you get the proper thickness. 0.5mm, 1mm, and 1.5mm.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Best thermal pads: Fujipoly Extreme. Just make sure you get the proper thickness. 0.5mm, 1mm, and 1.5mm.


So can I just use the thermal pad I have left over? Isn't it the same thing? I really don't remember which type it was, but, it's whatever type you had recommend for my VRM.

Yea, it doesn't seem like it gets tight enough without a thermal pad. I didn't even think about the thermal pad I already had, until I put it back together.

*It isn't too big of a deal, it only took an hour to take apart, and put back together. A lot less time than the first time I did it... I always seem to end up with 1 extra screw.


----------



## M3TAl

If it's thick enough and large enough it should be fine.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If it's thick enough and large enough it should be fine.


Cool. If it gives me more trouble, I'll make sure to use it. I'm pretty sure it's thick enough.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Best thermal pads: Fujipoly Extreme. Just make sure you get the proper thickness. 0.5mm, 1mm, and 1.5mm.


99% of users have no need for it, unless you have a golden chip and are squeezing every last oz of power from it, the 6mk/w is just fine


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I pulled my system apart, and sure enough, it was the GPU chip.
> 
> It seems like it doesn't get a good enough connection with thermal paste. The paste I had put on it, was like concrete. So, I cleaned it all off, and reapplied it to both the CPU and GPU. The cpu's paste was fine.
> 
> I think that I need a thermal pad for the GPU. It seems that with the way it's set up, without a thermal pad, it won't have the proper tightness.
> 
> Anyway, for now, I'm typing this on my laptop. I'll have to see what happens, and look into thermal pads for it.
> 
> I do have some thermal padding left over from my VRM. I'm not sure if that will work or not if this doesn't stick. I'll have to look up later.


Would be nice if it's really just that!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 99% of users have no need for it, unless you have a golden chip and are squeezing every last oz of power from it, the 6mk/w is just fine


It would be for my Laptops GPU.

I already have some that I used for my VRM before, I'm just not sure the thickness.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Would be nice if it's really just that!


It's already shutting off again.

I'll have to replace the paste with a thermal pad.

My main worry about that is, last time it at least worked for awhile with just the thermal paste. The fact that it isn't taking, kind of worries me.

I'm going to pull it apart one more time. If I can fix it with a thermal pad, great, if not, well at least I'll be able to send that memory back unopened when it gets here.

And shoot, if my laptop does crap out, at least I'm getting a 300gb external HDD out of it. =D My only external is my old 160gb PS3 HDD.

*I'll just have to get one more of these.*

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AMGHLQ/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

*It sucks that there isn't a better way to tighten down the heatsink over the graphics chip. Things like this are why I dislike laptops.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> It's already shutting off again.
> 
> I'll have to replace the paste with a thermal pad.
> 
> My main worry about that is, last time it at least worked for awhile with just the thermal paste. The fact that it isn't taking, kind of worries me.
> 
> I'm going to pull it apart one more time. If I can fix it with a thermal pad, great, if not, well at least I'll be able to send that memory back unopened when it gets here.
> 
> And shoot, if my laptop does crap out, at least I'm getting a 300gb external HDD out of it. =D My only external is my old 160gb PS3 HDD.
> 
> *I'll just have to get one more of these.*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AMGHLQ/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> *It sucks that there isn't a better way to tighten down the heatsink over the graphics chip. Things like this are why I dislike laptops.


Crap...yeah it's weird that it doesn't "stick". Lol that RAM takes forever to get there!
Yeah that case looks good and 3.50$








I never really liked laptops but sometimes they are pretty useful


----------



## Chargeit

*oops


----------



## M3TAl

If someone with a board that has actual VRM temp sensors and has a thermal probe from say a fan controller that could help me out I would REALLY appreciate it.

Basically since the older revisions have no sensor for mosfets the only thing to go off of is a thermal probe taped to the back of the board. Wondering what the actual temp difference is between back of the board and actual mosfet? Like if my back of board sensor says 75C is actual mosfet say 90C? Or higher, lower to back of board temp?

So if someone with probe sensor and actual board sensors could tape a probe to the back of the board that would be great.


----------



## Mega Man

general safe idea that you will get closest with temps is
10deg f ( you can use google and do the conversion ) between each material it is far from perfect, but close enough


----------



## M3TAl

Would still be nice though if someone with the board sensors would test it.


----------



## reeven

Hwinfo64 says 75c, chieftec sensor say 77c. In Prime95 it raise at 90c or so. I need a new antec spotcool to put on vrm


----------



## M3TAl

What is a chieftec sensor and where exactly is it placed?


----------



## Chargeit

Just finished putting my laptop back together.

I can tell right off the bat that it doesn't feel hot after switching to the thermal pad.

Now, it's only reading one stick of ram, but, I should be able to remedy that quick.







I'll have to give the ram a cleaning. Not to forget, I've got a juicy 8 gb coming still. Will kick butt, assuming this thing keeps up and running.

Damned I hope it works. I really did feel like I was losing a old friend with my laptop killing on me.

Time to check on the ram.

*That was easy, the top stick was basically falling out.

I'm also doing some LLC testing, to see if I can't get it to 4.5 relying on heavier LLC. Though, I already have stable settings up to 4.6, just seeing if I can do it with temps that I don't mind running 24/7.

The most beautiful run of heaven I've had yet. =D *fixed!


----------



## SeriousTom

I just noticed New Drivers for my Rev 1.1 they are dated 2014/01/17
They include :
AMD Chipset Driver Version 13.125
Realtek LAN Driver Version 8.018
SATA RAID/AHCI
If you hadn't noticed.


----------



## reeven

Chieftec sensor is from my chieftec fan controller , i put it on vrm radiator.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Just finished putting my laptop back together.
> 
> I can tell right off the bat that it doesn't feel hot after switching to the thermal pad.
> 
> Now, it's only reading one stick of ram, but, I should be able to remedy that quick.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll have to give the ram a cleaning. Not to forget, I've got a juicy 8 gb coming still. Will kick butt, assuming this thing keeps up and running.
> 
> Damned I hope it works. I really did feel like I was losing a old friend with my laptop killing on me.
> 
> Time to check on the ram.
> 
> *That was easy, the top stick was basically falling out.
> 
> I'm also doing some LLC testing, to see if I can't get it to 4.5 relying on heavier LLC. Though, I already have stable settings up to 4.6, just seeing if I can do it with temps that I don't mind running 24/7.
> 
> The most beautiful run of heaven I've had yet. =D *fixed!


Nice!!! I need to fix my laptop too!








Well, I am happy to report that I bumped my rig to 4.4 without additional heat...funny thing is that I was freaking out because the voltage was jumping up and down but then I realized that I had forgotten to turn off the CnQ!









Now I really need some income so I can afford a new video card because the fps still drops mad with HD clouds and I want to bump the AA settings but it's useless with the GT630


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice!!! I need to fix my laptop too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I am happy to report that I bumped my rig to 4.4 without additional heat...funny thing is that I was freaking out because the voltage was jumping up and down but then I realized that I had forgotten to turn off the CnQ!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I really need some income so I can afford a new video card because the fps still drops mad with HD clouds and I want to bump the AA settings but it's useless with the GT630


I run with CnQ enabled. It shouldn't be an issue in day to day use. I think most just disable it for stress testing.

I read a reviewer that basically said, "If you can't get your oc stable with energy savings in affect, it isn't worth it". I pretty much agree. If my system has to run wide open, or have wacky settings in order to run my OC, than I don't want it. This is the reason I stress test with CnQ, and other energy saving features enabled. I've seen my system set up without a lot of it, and it isnt' something I'd want running 24/7.

Make sure to benchmark your results. I was messing around with ocing last night, and was able to get 4.6 with cooler running temps using LLC extreme. I already have a stable 4.5, but, I was just testing out extreme. I ran heaven benchmark after, and my min fps was 8. Normally, with my current OC min fps is 21.0 @ 4.4, and 21.9 @ 4.5. So, little things can have a detrimental affect on your end performance. I get a higher max fps @ 4.4, than I do my good 4.5 oc oddly enough. Higher low, lower high. I'd take the extra 1 min fps personally, but the temps are too good at 4.4.

Yea, I'm really stoked about my laptop. It felt empty without having it next to me to reference things. I took it apart while running my stress tests, since I was sitting there, thinking how much more enjoyable stress testing was being able to web surf on it while stress testing.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I run with CnQ enabled. It shouldn't be an issue in day to day use. I think most just disable it for stress testing.
> 
> I read a reviewer that basically said, "If you can't get your oc stable with energy savings in affect, it isn't worth it". I pretty much agree. If my system has to run wide open, or have wacky settings in order to run my OC, than I don't want it. This is the reason I stress test with CnQ, and other energy saving features enabled. I've seen my system set up without a lot of it, and it isnt' something I'd want running 24/7.
> 
> Make sure to benchmark your results. I was messing around with ocing last night, and was able to get 4.6 with cooler running temps using LLC extreme. I already have a stable 4.5, but, I was just testing out extreme. I ran heaven benchmark after, and my min fps was 8. Normally, with my current OC min fps is 21.0 @ 4.4, and 21.9 @ 4.5. So, little things can have a detrimental affect on your end performance. I get a higher max fps @ 4.4, than I do my good 4.5 oc oddly enough. Higher low, lower high. I'd take the extra 1 min fps personally, but the temps are too good at 4.4.
> 
> Yea, I'm really stoked about my laptop. It felt empty without having it next to me to reference things. I took it apart while running my stress tests, since I was sitting there, thinking how much more enjoyable stress testing was being able to web surf on it while stress testing.


Well I always keep HPC mode on but wasn't sure about the CnQ as it makes the voltage go from ridiculous low values 0.9v to 1.5v so I was not sure if it was OK. Funny thing Turbo mode was also ON! This is OK but I noticed that the sim was not as fluid as when it's OFF because it keeps the cpu at the highest speed.

Yeah, this is why I want the laptop...I could also use it for network apps that are needed with FSX such as weather and GPS tracking


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Well I always keep HPC mode on but wasn't sure about the CnQ as it makes the voltage go from ridiculous low values 0.9v to 1.5v so I was not sure if it was OK. Funny thing Turbo mode was also ON! This is OK but I noticed that the sim was not as fluid as when it's OFF because it keeps the cpu at the highest speed.
> 
> Yeah, this is why I want the laptop...I could also use it for network apps that are needed with FSX such as weather and GPS tracking


I don't use HPC myself. I think it runs the system too hard.

If you're worried about your system dropping voltage when you're gaming, just set it to high performance mode while playing. Make sure the min/max cpu is set to 100%.

I set turbo to on in my bios, but have the turbo setting set the same as my normal setting, 4.4. The benefit of this is it posts a little quicker. I think MegaMan was the one to suggest this. Works fine.

*Setting up power mode short cuts*

http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/create-a-shortcut-or-hotkey-to-switch-power-plans/

_I'm not sure about windows 8, you'd have to look that up if you're using it._

I know my system runs fairly cool and quiet (Hey!) at idle. Some of it's relevant I guess, I personally value a quieter system, since hearing it pushed while sitting there disturbs me. If I want it to go balls to the wall, I just set it to high performance and open her up.

*Nice, ShadowPlay now has the option to record at less than 60fps, recording resolution, and a few other useful options. Considering Youtube only does 30 fps, a choice of recorded fps should be a useful option.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> Chieftec sensor is from my chieftec fan controller , i put it on vrm radiator.


What temp does the sensor get compared to the board sensor under load if put on the back of the board like this?


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I don't use HPC myself. I think it runs the system too hard.
> 
> If you're worried about your system dropping voltage when you're gaming, just set it to high performance mode while playing. Make sure the min/max cpu is set to 100%.
> 
> I set turbo to on in my bios, but have the turbo setting set the same as my normal setting, 4.4. The benefit of this is it posts a little quicker. I think MegaMan was the one to suggest this. Works fine.
> 
> *Setting up power mode short cuts*
> 
> http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/create-a-shortcut-or-hotkey-to-switch-power-plans/
> 
> _I'm not sure about windows 8, you'd have to look that up if you're using it._
> 
> I know my system runs fairly cool and quiet (Hey!) at idle. Some of it's relevant I guess, I personally value a quieter system, since hearing it pushed while sitting there disturbs me. If I want it to go balls to the wall, I just set it to high performance and open her up.
> 
> *Nice, ShadowPlay now has the option to record at less than 60fps, recording resolution, and a few other useful options. Considering Youtube only does 30 fps, a choice of recorded fps should be a useful option.


Yeah but in my case the CnQ...there is no "Q" as I disabled 2 fan controllers so that they run at full RPM. It's noisy but when you hear engine and wind noise it adds to the realism lol.
I always set windows to high performance and min/max cpu set @ 100%.








But if I set my fans to disabled then that hotkey for power saver becomes useless. I will try to set the fans to default "auto" to see.
I don't do Win8 I hate the look lol...if they put back the start menu I will upgrade









Is this a new version of ShadowPlay? It was sort of limited in the settings when it came out, no?
I am still undecided on what to do for recording my gameplays, that AverMedia LiveGamer HD looks mighty impressive! http://gamerzone.avermedia.com/game_capture/live_gamer_hd
You can record voice-over audio and since it's a dedicated board, check out the system resources used when it runs!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah but in my case the CnQ...there is no "Q" as I disabled 2 fan controllers so that they run at full RPM. It's noisy but when you hear engine and wind noise it adds to the realism lol.
> I always set windows to high performance and min/max cpu set @ 100%.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But if I set my fans to disabled then that hotkey for power saver becomes useless. I will try to set the fans to default "auto" to see.
> I don't do Win8 I hate the look lol...if they put back the start menu I will upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a new version of ShadowPlay? It was sort of limited in the settings when it came out, no?
> I am still undecided on what to do for recording my gameplays, that AverMedia LiveGamer HD looks mighty impressive! http://gamerzone.avermedia.com/game_capture/live_gamer_hd
> You can record voice-over audio and since it's a dedicated board, check out the system resources used when it runs!


They added a start menu in 8.1. I'm still not using though. Also, windows 9 should be out by the end of the year. If history repeats itself, it should be a good OS, since every other MS OS seems to be good.

Dedicated would be the way to go. Mine works fine, but, it's also a pretty expensive card. I'm not really sure how the other cards would handle it. Also, I don't think that capture cards are as limited in what they can record, ShadowPlay requires what it's recording to use DirectX.

The recent update has already given me issues. I noticed it was sucking up 11% CPU usage. I brought it to front, and than it gave me about 10 error boxes. Restarting the computer seems to have fixed it though. I knew I should of when it installed, but, was hoping I could get away without it. I'm really not sure why the program doesn't suggest a restart. I could imagine some people digging through forums trying to figure out what was wrong, when all it needed was a reboot.

ShadowPlay was pretty lite on the options, but, it's getting there. I really like the feature.

*Looks all nice and ready for action on my 2nd monitor.*


----------



## M3TAl

I don't miss start menu one bit. I dual boot between Win7 and 8, like 8 more. I actually like having all my program shortcuts on Metro. And I don't exactly restart very often so having to click one thing to get to Desktop on boot is not a big deal to me.

I'm the type of person who has many windows open at once (multiple Chrome and other applications). Instead of minimizing everything and looking for a shortcut on the desktop I just hit the Windows key and boom it's right there on Metro. Or you hit Windows key and just start typing the name of the program, same way as the original start button. Don't have to mess around with re-maximizing and placing different windows. Sure I could put them on the taskbar at the bottom and I do but only a few very important things. Don't need 20 things cluttering up the taskbar.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> They added a start menu in 8.1. I'm still not using though. Also, windows 9 should be out by the end of the year. If history repeats itself, it should be a good OS, since every other MS OS seems to be good.
> 
> Dedicated would be the way to go. Mine works fine, but, it's also a pretty expensive card. I'm not really sure how the other cards would handle it. Also, I don't think that capture cards are as limited in what they can record, ShadowPlay requires what it's recording to use DirectX.
> 
> The recent update has already given me issues. I noticed it was sucking up 11% CPU usage. I brought it to front, and than it gave me about 10 error boxes. Restarting the computer seems to have fixed it though. I knew I should of when it installed, but, was hoping I could get away without it. I'm really not sure why the program doesn't suggest a restart. I could imagine some people digging through forums trying to figure out what was wrong, when all it needed was a reboot.
> 
> ShadowPlay was pretty lite on the options, but, it's getting there. I really like the feature.
> 
> *Looks all nice and ready for action on my 2nd monitor.*


Yeah the Live Gamer HD is not even going at 5% cpu usage!








Nice for the second monitor!








I'll move up to 8.1 once I can see a clear advantage especially in FSX and hopefully 9 will be much more user-friendly!


----------



## Chargeit

I barely use the start menu myself, most of the time I keep important programs on my desktop. I do like the convenience of it however, and see no reason in turning it into a totally different screen. It makes no sense.

I just don't dig on the look of windows 8 metro. To be honest, I'm not too big into a lot of the current design choices, such as having one or two things require half of my monitor. I'd take a good itemized list any day of the week. In steam for instance, I use the menu that displays your games names to the left, categorized, with any information pertaining to the selected game to the right. The one where it's all the pictured tiles is my least favorite, since it feels like chaos.

I just don't like large tiles, never have, never will. This modern approach to a sporadic, random feel gives me headaches. I get what they're going for, but, I don't want it. Lists, good old comprehensible lists. I guess it could be argued that icons are similar, but, they aren't nearly as intrusive, and, fairly easy to organize as needed.

In the end, I see no reason to buy windows 8, when 7 still works prefect. Maybe 9 will be more a attractive option.


----------



## GroovyMotion

+1...I don't like the idea of the whole estate is taken in order to show fancy and huge icons.
I like the start menu to quickly access recent and most accessed apps that I dont want in the taskbar, which has quite a lot of items right now.
I setup my win7 with the taskbar and start menu at the top, makes me more at home, being a Ubuntu user. I do miss the speed of starting an app in Unity and gnome. This is something that win8 mimicked in a sense but it's definitely as stylish and speedy


----------



## Chargeit

I rely pretty heavy on icons. I don't even pin things to my taskbar. I keep my taskbar where ever it needs to be, based on monitor set up. Right now, it's on the right on both my laptop and gaming rig, because of their 2nd monitor placements. One thing I've been doing for awhile also, is having my taskbar disappear. I don't like it sucking up my desktop, and chrome space.

The main thing I use my start menu for is searching, and if I want to restart/shutdown. I also like it as a quick way to access control panel, even though there are other ways.

My ol'lady has windows 8, I haven't really messed with it that much, but, just like Vista, it just seems like it needs a little tweaking to be usable.

*My laptop ram will be here tomorrow. Will be a welcomed upgrade, and the only ram upgrade it will ever need. Shoot, all it's missing after that would be a hybrid hdd, and it would be golden. It's running great now that I've taken care of the GPU issue. Well, as great as can be expected with a 5400 rpm hdd in it.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice!!! I need to fix my laptop too!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I am happy to report that I bumped my rig to 4.4 without additional heat...funny thing is that I was freaking out because the voltage was jumping up and down but then I realized that I had forgotten to turn off the CnQ!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I really need some income so I can afford a new video card because the fps still drops mad with HD clouds and I want to bump the AA settings but it's useless with the GT630
> 
> 
> 
> I run with CnQ enabled. It shouldn't be an issue in day to day use. I think most just disable it for stress testing.
> 
> I read a reviewer that basically said, "If you can't get your oc stable with energy savings in affect, it isn't worth it". I pretty much agree. If my system has to run wide open, or have wacky settings in order to run my OC, than I don't want it. This is the reason I stress test with CnQ, and other energy saving features enabled. I've seen my system set up without a lot of it, and it isnt' something I'd want running 24/7.
> 
> Make sure to benchmark your results. I was messing around with ocing last night, and was able to get 4.6 with cooler running temps using LLC extreme. I already have a stable 4.5, but, I was just testing out extreme. I ran heaven benchmark after, and my min fps was 8. Normally, with my current OC min fps is 21.0 @ 4.4, and 21.9 @ 4.5. So, little things can have a detrimental affect on your end performance. I get a higher max fps @ 4.4, than I do my good 4.5 oc oddly enough. Higher low, lower high. I'd take the extra 1 min fps personally, but the temps are too good at 4.4.
> 
> Yea, I'm really stoked about my laptop. It felt empty without having it next to me to reference things. I took it apart while running my stress tests, since I was sitting there, thinking how much more enjoyable stress testing was being able to web surf on it while stress testing.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Well I always keep HPC mode on but wasn't sure about the CnQ as it makes the voltage go from ridiculous low values 0.9v to 1.5v so I was not sure if it was OK. Funny thing Turbo mode was also ON! This is OK but I noticed that the sim was not as fluid as when it's OFF because it keeps the cpu at the highest speed.
> 
> Yeah, this is why I want the laptop...I could also use it for network apps that are needed with FSX such as weather and GPS tracking
> 
> 
> 
> I don't use HPC myself. I think it runs the system too hard.
> 
> If you're worried about your system dropping voltage when you're gaming, just set it to high performance mode while playing. Make sure the min/max cpu is set to 100%.
> 
> I set turbo to on in my bios, but have the turbo setting set the same as my normal setting, 4.4. The benefit of this is it posts a little quicker. I think MegaMan was the one to suggest this. Works fine.
> 
> *Setting up power mode short cuts*
> 
> http://www.howtogeek.com/howto/windows-vista/create-a-shortcut-or-hotkey-to-switch-power-plans/
> 
> _I'm not sure about windows 8, you'd have to look that up if you're using it._
> 
> I know my system runs fairly cool and quiet (Hey!) at idle. Some of it's relevant I guess, I personally value a quieter system, since hearing it pushed while sitting there disturbs me. If I want it to go balls to the wall, I just set it to high performance and open her up.
> 
> *Nice, ShadowPlay now has the option to record at less than 60fps, recording resolution, and a few other useful options. Considering Youtube only does 30 fps, a choice of recorded fps should be a useful option.
Click to expand...




huh?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> apm= aplication power management throttles cpu @40c core temp and @ 72c ( iirc ) socket
> hpc = high performance computer stops apm from throttling @ 40core but it will continue to throttle @ socket temp
> C&Q= cool and quiet lets the cpu down clock and downvolt, however it will only downvolt if you use offset mode and not manual
> 
> c1e and c6 are other power management but used under specific circumstances on my asus i could be stable with them on or off, on my giga board ( ud7 ) i cant seem to be stable or i need more volts, have not bothered to test
> 
> llc = load line calibration, lets vrms compensate for vdroop, host cases high/ ultra is good, extreme is never needed and will cause oyu lots of heat ( iirc asrock is backwards and uses a % ( 100% =0 ect )


how is going over 40c working too hard? i wont even get into the fact that you say that it is not worth shutting off powersaving features ( only saves you ~ 50 *per year* AT THE MOST ) and then you disable CNQ in windows ( when you set your CPU to max settings, it is like CNQ is off.... )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I don't miss start menu one bit. I dual boot between Win7 and 8, like 8 more. I actually like having all my program shortcuts on Metro. And I don't exactly restart very often so having to click one thing to get to Desktop on boot is not a big deal to me.
> 
> I'm the type of person who has many windows open at once (multiple Chrome and other applications). Instead of minimizing everything and looking for a shortcut on the desktop I just hit the Windows key and boom it's right there on Metro. Or you hit Windows key and just start typing the name of the program, same way as the original start button. Don't have to mess around with re-maximizing and placing different windows. Sure I could put them on the taskbar at the bottom and I do but only a few very important things. Don't need 20 things cluttering up the taskbar.


+1 and you learn the keyboard shortcuts which is faster no matter what ( with or without startmenu )


----------



## KronosNJ

Question...

GA-990FXA-UD3, is it capable of running overclocked 2133 MHZ memory or max is 2000?


----------



## M3TAl

Yes, as long as you use 9.33 memory multi (1866) or lower and raise the bus speed. So a 228-229 FSB for ~2133 using 9.33 memory multi.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh?
> how is going over 40c working too hard? i wont even get into the fact that you say that it is not worth shutting off powersaving features ( only saves you ~ 50 *per year* AT THE MOST ) and then you disable CNQ in windows ( when you set your CPU to max settings, it is like CNQ is off.... )
> +1 and you learn the keyboard shortcuts which is faster no matter what ( with or without startmenu )


The reason I like to leave many on, is PC health. I'm not worried about saving a few bucks. I am worried about putting unnecessary wear on my system. Also, anything to avoid heat.

It makes more sense to me to leave "CnQ" on in bios, and turn on performance mode as needed. Why should a computer be wide open when watching youtube, or checking email. It just doesn't make sense. It's easy enough to switch between power modes if you shortcut it.

If I enable performance mode, my multiplier and voltage holds just fine.

Still, it isn't really CnQ I'd be worried about, it's the "HPC" mode which seems to run your system like a dog. That's just from my experience, though it was on that GA-970a-UD3, which seemed to have tons of issues.

I know the shortcuts I need. Other than that, I'm not being timed on things I do, so, I like the take the manual route for most things.

*I ran heaven with CnQ, and C1e disabled in bios, 1 point difference, but, I wasn't in high performance mode when I ran the test with cnq, and c1e enabled. Not sure if that would factor in.


----------



## Mega Man

the ud3 does not have the 2133 multi ? i still think giga is lame for not putting in the 2400 multi in the UD7


----------



## KronosNJ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Yes, as long as you use 9.33 memory multi (1866) or lower and raise the bus speed. So a 228-229 FSB for ~2133 using 9.33 memory multi.


Ok cool. Thank you.


----------



## Chargeit

Well, Nvidia did it, they f'ed my system up.

It updated that experience today. I ended up with tons of errors.

I go to run heaven for a 2nd time, and suddenly I get directX errors.

I checked my SSD for some reason, and, since last night, I magically went from 300gb life time writes, to 3.5tb...

So yea, it's off my system, and I'm on older drivers.

I'm not happy with Nvidia right now. My cheap 7850 never game me any issues...

Still fuming.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Well, Nvidia did it, they f'ed my system up.
> 
> It updated that experience today. I ended up with tons of errors.
> 
> I go to run heaven for a 2nd time, and suddenly I get directX errors.
> 
> I checked my SSD for some reason, and, since last night, I magically went from 300gb life time writes, to 3.5tb...
> 
> So yea, it's off my system, and I'm on older drivers.
> 
> I'm not happy with Nvidia right now. My cheap 7850 never game me any issues...
> 
> Still fuming.


You installed that bloatware nvidia experience?








I never had a single DX error but I run only one game that's been optimized for years. I don't trust auto-updaters for graphics cards!

Het going back to that CnQ discussion, I'll try the switch trick, I didn't read it it's saved but you basically run your rig OC'ed and use that switch?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> You installed that bloatware nvidia experience?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had a single DX error but I run only one game that's been optimized for years. I don't trust auto-updaters for graphics cards!
> 
> Het going back to that CnQ discussion, I'll try the switch trick, I didn't read it it's saved but you basically run your rig OC'ed and use that switch?


It's the only way you can use ShadowPlay.

Oh yea, and it's bloated to hell.

I removed it, uninstalled drivers, installed previous drivers.

Yea, that crap loaded my freaking SSD down. What else could be responsible for going from 300gb written to 3.5tb.

*I didn't auto update anything. I did allow it to check for updates, I'd than install when needed. Oh well, screw it, and shadow play. I'll miss shadowplay though.

Yea, if I want my system to run without dropping anything, I turn on performance mode, tweaked of course.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> It's the only way you can use ShadowPlay.


You need it to stream to Nvidia Shield as well...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> You need it to stream to Nvidia Shield as well...


Yea, didn't think of that.

It is bloated, but, up until this point it hadn't given me trouble. It's just since this update.

I really don't understand why it was using my SSD as a spot for temp files, since I had it set to my HHD for both recordings, and temp files.

Also, I don't understand how so much was written in such a short time. Unless it has been doing this since the last time I updated, but, I usually check my SSD every day or two. Though, it might of been a few days since I checked, since I was messing this laptop, but I doubt it. I just know, that the last time I looked at my ssd writes, it was 300gb, now after having all kinds of issues with the program, I have 3.5tb written to it. I mean, unless gremlins have been copying and erasing HD pron videos when I wasn't looking, the only thing that makes sense is ShadowPlay was recording everything using DirectX to my SSD, without being turned on, or setup to write to it.

*Check it out*



I looked at this, and You can see it's turned off, but, look to the left at the mode option. It's in shadow mode, even though I had it set to manual previously. When the damned thing updated, it set that back to shadow, when I had it set to manual only. Still, that doesn't explain why it was recording when it was turned off, or why it used my SSD, when it was set to use my HDD for everything.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, didn't think of that.
> 
> It is bloated, but, up until this point it hadn't given me trouble. It's just since this update.
> 
> I really don't understand why it was using my SSD as a spot for temp files, since I had it set to my HHD for both recordings, and temp files.
> 
> Also, I don't understand how so much was written in such a short time. Unless it has been doing this since the last time I updated, but, I usually check my SSD every day or two. Though, it might of been a few days since I checked, since I was messing this laptop, but I doubt it. I just know, that the last time I looked at my ssd writes, it was 300gb, now after having all kinds of issues with the program, I have 3.5tb written to it. I mean, unless gremlins have been copying and erasing HD pron videos when I wasn't looking, the only thing that makes sense is ShadowPlay was recording everything using DirectX to my SSD, without being turned on, or setup to write to it.
> 
> *Check it out*
> 
> 
> 
> I looked at this, and You can see it's turned off, but, look to the left at the mode option. It's in shadow mode, even though I had it set to manual previously. When the damned thing updated, it set that back to shadow, when I had it set to manual only. Still, that doesn't explain why it was recording when it was turned off, or why it used my SSD, when it was set to use my HDD for everything.










The gremlins!!








I don't know...seems a bit weird that it writes to your SSD without you knowing it.

so now I am down to 2 choices for capturing from the PC: Roxio Game Capture HD or the AverMedia Live Gamer HD.
Only thing is that the AverMedia is only available @NCIX and it's 189 while the Roxio is available at Staples for 129 shipping included but they are out of stock.
Don't mention any US stores as our $ went downhill BIG time in the past weeks so it's basically no more US purchases. It's not good for the consumers but it's great for our economy as our dollar was overvalued and pushed the exports down


----------



## ebduncan

has anyone here used the Koolance MVR water block for the VRM's on the gigabyte ud3?

IF so what size heat transfer plate did you use?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The gremlins!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know...seems a bit weird that it writes to your SSD without you knowing it.
> 
> so now I am down to 2 choices for capturing from the PC: Roxio Game Capture HD or the AverMedia Live Gamer HD.
> Only thing is that the AverMedia is only available @NCIX and it's 189 while the Roxio is available at Staples for 129 shipping included but they are out of stock.
> Don't mention any US stores as our $ went downhill BIG time in the past weeks so it's basically no more US purchases. It's not good for the consumers but it's great for our economy as our dollar was overvalued and pushed the exports down


I'd suggest watching youtube reviews.

I do suggest that you don't spend too much on it, unless you're planing on getting serious about it. However, don't skimp if you think you'll be disappointed about it later. I personally think you should upgrade your GPU first. for the price you're thinking about spending, you can get a R9 270, or 7870, and than add a recorder later. Now this is assuming that a better GPU would improve FSX performance, therefore allowing for better videos.

After doing a quick search, it seems like the AverMedia is high end, but records full HD. The Roxio, at least for a quick search doesn't record in full HD. The video I watch was older however, and things might of changed.

What are you recording for? To keep for your own collection, or youtube?

*Shoot man, I don't know how it wrote 3tb of data to my ssd without me knowing. I mean, that's a lot of space. When I upgraded my PS3 hdd to 500gb, I downloaded about 300 gb worth of games, that took me a good 3 - 4 days... the amount of data that's suddenly written to my hdd is 10 times that much data.

It has to of been doing it since before yesterdays update. If I remember, I updated the drivers a few days ago, and it updated experience at that time as well. It must of been doing it since then. which would make it 2 or 3 days. I remember thinking it was odd to have another update so quickly yesterday.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'd suggest watching youtube reviews.
> 
> I do suggest that you don't spend too much on it, unless you're planing on getting serious about it. However, don't skimp if you think you'll be disappointed about it later. I personally think you should upgrade your GPU first. for the price you're thinking about spending, you can get a R9 270, or 7870, and than add a recorder later. Now this is assuming that a better GPU would improve FSX performance, therefore allowing for better videos.
> 
> After doing a quick search, it seems like the AverMedia is high end, but records full HD. The Roxio, at least for a quick search doesn't record in full HD. The video I watch was older however, and things might of changed.
> 
> What are you recording for? To keep for your own collection, or youtube?
> 
> *Shoot man, I don't know how it wrote 3tb of data to my ssd without me knowing. I mean, that's a lot of space. When I upgraded my PS3 hdd to 500gb, I downloaded about 300 gb worth of games, that took me a good 3 - 4 days... the amount of data that's suddenly written to my hdd is 10 times that much data.
> 
> It has to of been doing it since before yesterdays update. If I remember, I updated the drivers a few days ago, and it updated experience at that time as well. It must of been doing it since then. which would make it 2 or 3 days. I remember thinking it was odd to have another update so quickly yesterday.


Oh no...the Live Gamer HD:
Quote:


> Live Gamer HD is a PCI-E card that helps you record and stream your game footages up to 1080p












Well, I'd like to have the option to record to youtube and Twitch and the Live Gamer HD has a dedicated record button that flashes when it's recording so you know it *IS* recording. So far I checked reviews and it is the best choice along with elgato but this one is flat rate of 180$ only available through their site.

What size is your SSD?? Seems to be a monster!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Oh no...the Live Gamer HD:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I'd like to have the option to record to youtube and Twitch and the Live Gamer HD has a dedicated record button that flashes when it's recording so you know it *IS* recording. So far I checked reviews and it is the best choice along with elgato but this one is flat rate of 180$ only available through their site.
> 
> What size is your SSD?? Seems to be a monster!


Lol, it's only 120 gb, 3.5tb is enough to fill over 30 of my SSD.

What it was doing, was using it for temporary recording. While I was playing a game, it would record the last 20 min of game play, than erase it. I had this option turned off before, and, have my HDD set to be used for this anyway.

But yea, one of the recent updates changed shadowing back on. It must of also reset to record to my SSD, even though it still said my HDD in the short cuts. My SSD is my C: drive, HDD F: drive. When I checked it, after noticing the writes, it still said save videos to F:, temp files F:. The same locations it had been set to since getting the card.

Oh, and my SSD, I was obsessively checking it a few times a day, and within the last week, started to wean myself off of doing that. Now see what happened. I know for a fact, that the writes happened within the last few days. No doubt about that. I mean, I just started slacking off checking the SSD for lifetime writes. I also know that it hadn't been more than 2 days since my last check. I had thought it was that morning, but, I don't think I did a check that morning, most like the day before.

_I say get the capture card you want._ I'd suggest you ask around some more though, from people who use them. The only reason I was interested in recording game play, was because of ShadowPlay. I did no research into capture cards.


----------



## Caldeio

I have a ECS 785gm-m MATX am3 board with a 1045t CPU overclocked with a fsb of 225 or 3.0ghz. no turbo boost. No matter the volts I'm at a dead end it seems.

Do you think upgrading to this board will get me more of a overclock?


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Lol, it's only 120 gb, 3.5tb is enough to fill over 30 of my SSD.
> 
> What it was doing, was using it for temporary recording. While I was playing a game, it would record the last 20 min of game play, than erase it. I had this option turned off before, and, have my HDD set to be used for this anyway.
> 
> But yea, one of the recent updates changed shadowing back on. It must of also reset to record to my SSD, even though it still said my HDD in the short cuts. My SSD is my C: drive, HDD F: drive. When I checked it, after noticing the writes, it still said save videos to F:, temp files F:. The same locations it had been set to since getting the card.
> 
> Oh, and my SSD, I was obsessively checking it a few times a day, and within the last week, started to wean myself off of doing that. Now see what happened. I know for a fact, that the writes happened within the last few days. No doubt about that. I mean, I just started slacking off checking the SSD for lifetime writes. I also know that it hadn't been more than 2 days since my last check. I had thought it was that morning, but, I don't think I did a check that morning, most like the day before.
> 
> _I say get the capture card you want._ I'd suggest you ask around some more though, from people who use them. The only reason I was interested in recording game play, was because of ShadowPlay. I did no research into capture cards.


Oh ok I was afraid because 3.5Tb is way beyond our bidget and it woud require a lot of SSD's!








Don't know what happened, it's weird!

I did my research and for what I need the AverMedia looks like the best option but the Roxio is newer and quite similar.
Oh! I found the power cord of the laptop and am installing XP on it...freakin drive bay would not open I had to wiggle it for 10min before the freakin door opened lol

***Oh regarding the video card it will be useless to get the greatest almighty because FSX doesn't care at all. If I get the capture card I'll probably get a 660. If I get a review capture card then I could get a more expensive graphics one


----------



## Chargeit

Post links to the two cards you're talking about.

*** I installed my new ram. My system is running much better. I do think my ram was going bad. Things like opening chrome was taking way too long. Now, it's really quick. Add in a HDD or hybrid, and my laptop would be golden.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Nice!! Mine is formatting right now









Roxio Game Capture HD: http://www.roxio.com/enu/promotions/landing/game-capture/default.html?source=gamecaptureURL

AverMedia LiveGamer HD: http://gamerzone.avermedia.com/game_capture/live_gamer_hd


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> has anyone here used the Koolance MVR water block for the VRM's on the gigabyte ud3?
> 
> IF so what size heat transfer plate did you use?


I thought about it but went with the old EK one for 700 series boards. Got it on clearance 50% off from Performance-PCS about 2 weeks ago.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice!! Mine is formatting right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Roxio Game Capture HD: http://www.roxio.com/enu/promotions/landing/game-capture/default.html?source=gamecaptureURL
> 
> AverMedia LiveGamer HD: http://gamerzone.avermedia.com/game_capture/live_gamer_hd


I'd think the AverMedia would be more convenient to use, since it installs inside of your system. I think both would do what you need it to do however.

Assuming you have the connections needed, I'd get the Roxio to save money, or the AverMedia for convenience.

Just make sure you've got the required wires. It's also suggested to record to an hdd not being used for the game.

***Yea, it's hard not to see that $60 price difference. From what I gathered, the Roxio has good video editing software, but is lacking in other software. I even think it required 3rd party software to steam voice properly. I'm not really that sure about the AverMedia.

I'd strongly suggest you ask people who already own one or the other, and use for what you're intending to do. Small details can end up causing a lot of headaches.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'd think the AverMedia would be more convenient to use, since it installs inside of your system. I think both would do what you need it to do however.
> 
> Assuming you have the connections needed, I'd get the Roxio to save money, or the AverMedia for convenience.
> 
> Just make sure you've got the required wires. It's also suggested to record to an hdd not being used for the game.


Well, the AverMedia comes with all cables included and I only need the HDMI and I already have 2 long HDMI cables.
It will come down to whichever is on special when I order it


----------



## GroovyMotion

So I installed XP on the laptop and srervice-packed it...MS really doesn't want you to use XP lol it's a nightmare trying to get SP2 and 3, they throw so many errors at you! Had to get the network installers for both!








I know XP is old but this is a 32-bit laptop and I only have XP 32-bit and 7 64-bit!








Anyways, glad to have a laptop while my primary rig is working


----------



## Chargeit

Nice man. Yea, it's really useful to have a 2nd computer. It's one of those things, I've seen people act like it was a waste, but, once you get used to it, it's hard to go back on. Like now, I'm messing around on my gaming rig, but, can keep up with forums, email, things like that on this system. Not even multi monitors make up for having a 2nd rig at your disposal.

I ordered a new keyboard today.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823162027

I wanted brown switches since they seemed like the best in between for typing, and gaming. Also, at the price it's hard to beat from reviews. It's fairly spartan, expect for the illuminated keys, which is what I really wanted badly for playing in the dark. The only features I'd of liked, that it doesn't have is a hand rest, and textured keys for the wasd. Considering the features I'd of like start at around 120ish, I can live without them.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Nice keyboard!








But not for me









Yeah and I found some apps to actually use the laptop over a network to share panels for FSX!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Nice man. Yea, it's really useful to have a 2nd computer. It's one of those things, I've seen people act like it was a waste, but, once you get used to it, it's hard to go back on. Like now, I'm messing around on my gaming rig, but, can keep up with forums, email, things like that on this system. Not even multi monitors make up for having a 2nd rig at your disposal.
> 
> I ordered a new keyboard today.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823162027
> 
> I wanted brown switches since they seemed like the best in between for typing, and gaming. Also, at the price it's hard to beat from reviews. It's fairly spartan, expect for the illuminated keys, which is what I really wanted badly for playing in the dark. The only features I'd of liked, that it doesn't have is a hand rest, and textured keys for the wasd. Considering the features I'd of like start at around 120ish, I can live without them.


2nd? in my house between laptops and actual pcs ( 2 laptops in this number ) i have 5 this does not include tablets or phones. nor does it include work pcs and in my basement if i wanted i could make another 4 with minor to no parts needed ( come to think of it one is all ready set up )

and i will be making at least 2 htpcs one for main living/family room and one for the bed room


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 2nd? in my house between laptops and actual pcs ( 2 laptops in this number ) i have 5 this does not include tablets or phones. nor does it include work pcs and in my basement if i wanted i could make another 4 with minor to no parts needed ( come to think of it one is all ready set up )
> 
> and i will be making at least 2 htpcs one for main living/family room and one for the bed room


Hmmm, we have 3 laptops, 2 desktop, will be 3 soon. Of course the usually, phones (though mine is ancient), tablets, and give the ol'Ps3 some love, since it does go online.

Damn, I remember having like 1 computer, that was in the living room, without internet access.

I just consider these 2, since that's what I use.

Total computers right now, 5. Others (cellphone, tablets ext) 7? Getting ready to set up mission control.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice keyboard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But not for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah and I found some apps to actually use the laptop over a network to share panels for FSX!


You don't like mechanical keyboards, or, you don't like that keyboard?

I've never used a mechanical, but, damned if I can't stop coveting one.

The illuminated keys are for function, more than style. But, I'm happy they are blue, since it does go with most of the other lights on my system, such as the fan controller, and blue light on my sd reader. I'd take blue over red on any lighting.

Also, from what I understand, they're heavy, and would make a good makeshift blunt object if the zombie apocalypse happens any time soon. It never hurts to be prepared.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> You don't like mechanical keyboards, or, you don't like that keyboard?
> 
> I've never used a mechanical, but, damned if I can't stop coveting one.
> 
> The illuminated keys are for function, more than style. But, I'm happy they are blue, since it does go with most of the other lights on my system, such as the fan controller, and blue light on my sd reader. I'd take blue over red on any lighting.
> 
> Also, from what I understand, they're heavy, and would make a good makeshift blunt object if the zombie apocalypse happens any time soon. It never hurts to be prepared.


Don't know never used such a keyboard. I meant that I don't need one and don't have the budget for one.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Don't know never used such a keyboard. I meant that I don't need one and don't have the budget for one.


Ah, yea. They're a luxury. I mean, I've had this system for 7 months or so, and I'm just getting around to getting one.

A good one that I've seen that isn't mechanical, is the sidewinder. It will go on sale for $30 some times.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823109191

If you ever want a cheap mechanical keyboard this looks like a ok option.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201060

I'm not sure about the switches, but, for the price, it might not be a bad option.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice keyboard!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But not for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah and I found some apps to actually use the laptop over a network to share panels for FSX!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't like mechanical keyboards, or, you don't like that keyboard?
> 
> I've never used a mechanical, but, damned if I can't stop coveting one.
> 
> The illuminated keys are for function, more than style. But, I'm happy they are blue, since it does go with most of the other lights on my system, such as the fan controller, and blue light on my sd reader. I'd take blue over red on any lighting.
> 
> Also, from what I understand, they're heavy, and would make a good makeshift blunt object if the zombie apocalypse happens any time soon. It never hurts to be prepared.
Click to expand...

i hate mech keyboards, i know it does not make sense i always have and always will hate the sounds
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Don't know never used such a keyboard. I meant that I don't need one and don't have the budget for one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, yea. They're a luxury. I mean, I've had this system for 7 months or so, and I'm just getting around to getting one.
> 
> A good one that I've seen that isn't mechanical, is the sidewinder. It will go on sale for $30 some times.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823109191
> 
> If you ever want a cheap mechanical keyboard this looks like a ok option.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201060
> 
> I'm not sure about the switches, but, for the price, it might not be a bad option.
Click to expand...

i always lol @ this ( not @ you please note that ) esp when i see the price of the dang things . i remember when you could not give them away but every keyboard out was a mechanical key board and they were like 10-20 new

then people relized " they are great for gaming " so now they use them as luxury items my fav line from people is " in 5 years i wont need a new one but you will "

i hardly keep anything for 5 years on a computer, and if they do.... i feel bad for them


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Ah, yea. They're a luxury. I mean, I've had this system for 7 months or so, and I'm just getting around to getting one.
> 
> A good one that I've seen that isn't mechanical, is the sidewinder. It will go on sale for $30 some times.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823109191
> 
> If you ever want a cheap mechanical keyboard this looks like a ok option.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16823201060
> 
> I'm not sure about the switches, but, for the price, it might not be a bad option.


Yeah the Sidewinder looks a bit better but I prefer keyboards with low keys. I do need a good keyboard because FSX uses a LOT of them on top of the joystick!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i hate mech keyboards, i know it does not make sense i always have and always will hate the sounds
> i always lol @ this ( not @ you please note that ) esp when i see the price of the dang things . i remember when you could not give them away but every keyboard out was a mechanical key board and they were like 10-20 new
> 
> then people relized " they are great for gaming " so now they use them as luxury items my fav line from people is " in 5 years i wont need a new one but you will "
> 
> i hardly keep anything for 5 years on a computer, and if they do.... i feel bad for them


I hear you on that.

Man, the keyboard I'm using is some cruddy old dell I nabbed from the office.

I've read a lot of people saying theses are good keyboards. I figured I might as well give it a test myself. If I don't like it, than I'll never get another one again.









As for lasting 5 years, this dell keyboard has to be 10 years old.

I want one because I want one.







I got the brown because I read the red are hair trigger and bad for typing, and the blues are better for typing, but louder. The browns seem like a good in between.

To be honest, I really like my laptops keyboard. Something is satisfying about typing on it.

As for the price, yea, they're crazy, but, it is what it is.

*@Groovymotion* - _The sidewinder looks like a good option. I mean, if you can catch it on sale for $30, it's a steal. illuminated keys, hand rest, all the bells and whistles. I really considered getting that, instead of the one I bought. The only thing that stopped me, is I'll never be satisfied until I know what a mechanical keyboard is like._


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> *@Groovymotion* - _The sidewinder looks like a good option. I mean, if you can catch it on sale for $30, it's a steal. illuminated keys, hand rest, all the bells and whistles. I really considered getting that, instead of the one I bought. The only thing that stopped me, is I'll never be satisfied until I know what a mechanical keyboard is like._


I know the feeling, needing to try something








I got this keyboard not even a year ago, I went through 4 in 5 years lol
I am saving my money for a H.O.T.A.S. joystick which costs a lot.
Let us know how the experience is, I am still curious lol


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I'm still rocking a 1989 IBM Model M on my rig. I love this keyboard, it will out live me I think.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'm still rocking a 1989 IBM Model M on my rig. I love this keyboard, it will out live me I think.


I wish i still had my omnikey ultra.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'm still rocking a 1989 IBM Model M on my rig. I love this keyboard, it will out live me I think.


_From wikipedia_

_The Model M is also regarded as a timeless and durable piece of hardware.[1][2][3] *Many units manufactured since the mid-1980s are still in use today*, while the computers and monitors of the day are obsolete. Unicomp, which now owns the rights to the design, continues to sell Model M keyboards. Recently, the keyboards have made a comeback among writers and computer technicians.[4] *Unicomp has had difficulty making them profitable because they rarely break,* and most retailers will not stock such an expensive keyboard._

If it still works. This old dell works fine, expect, the left shift key requires me to basically be right on the center. I always have to go back and fix caps.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I'm still rocking a 1989 IBM Model M on my rig. I love this keyboard, it will out live me I think.
> 
> 
> 
> _From wikipedia_
> 
> _The Model M is also regarded as a timeless and durable piece of hardware.[1][2][3] *Many units manufactured since the mid-1980s are still in use today*, while the computers and monitors of the day are obsolete. Unicomp, which now owns the rights to the design, continues to sell Model M keyboards. Recently, the keyboards have made a comeback among writers and computer technicians.[4] *Unicomp has had difficulty making them profitable because they rarely break,* and most retailers will not stock such an expensive keyboard._
> 
> If it still works. This old dell works fine, expect, the left shift key requires me to basically be right on the center. I always have to go back and fix caps.
Click to expand...

i remember that keyboard... and i hate it , hated then and yes still hate it ! and boy is it uggry !


----------



## Caldeio

GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3

That is the board I was talking about. Better than ECS 785gm-m at overclocking? My 1045t is stuck at 3.0ghz on the ECS board.
Will be upgrading to 8350 and will be overclocking as well. Looking for the best performance. I do not like the asus sabertooth color. eww. Rampage is a bit expensive, idk why I'd do that.
I will go possibly get one more gtx770 but until then I want to use my 550ti as a dedicted miner/physx card with my gtx770.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i remember that keyboard... and i hate it , hated then and yes still hate it ! and boy is it uggry !


Yea, appearances count. As much as I'm annoyed by the windows key placement, I'd also miss it, just because. They should of added it to the top of the damned keyboard.

I didn't even have a computer back when that thing was made. I didn't get my first computer until I was 14 I think. It was a 486Dx4 w/8mb of ram (man if only I could of had 16)... Years later, we tossed 64mb of ram in that sob, and it ran like a freaking jet.







I have no clue what keyboard it came with, but, it was pretty ugly too.

I wouldn't be surprised if the keyboard I'm getting lasts for years, but, I don't see myself wanting to still use it in 10+ years... Unless I need a blunt weapon to deal with zombies.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, appearances count. As much as I'm annoyed by the windows key placement, I'd also miss it, just because. They should of added it to the top of the damned keyboard.
> 
> I didn't even have a computer back when that thing was made. I didn't get my first computer until I was 14 I think. It was a 486Dx4 w/8mb of ram (man if only I could of had 16)... Years later, we tossed 64mb of ram in that sob, and it ran like a freaking jet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no clue what keyboard it came with, but, it was pretty ugly too.
> 
> I wouldn't be surprised if the keyboard I'm getting lasts for years, but, I don't see myself wanting to still use it in 10+ years... Unless I need a blunt weapon to deal with zombies.


Lol my first real pc was a macintosh classic, 9 inches monochrome woohoo! After it was the Mac Performa and then a PowerMac.
Actually the windows key is used as the primary key on most linux distros lol...it's the one that reveals the whole menu system!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I have yet to miss the Windows key. Different strokes for different folks.


----------



## Chargeit

@GroovyMotion - Yea, sounds like an important key for Linux than.

@ OzzRuleZ - I'm trying to think of times I use it, and I'm coming up with a blank, but, I know it proved useful once or twice... It has to.

I can think of many times I've pressed it in a game, and got f'ed over. Especially back when I played evercrack.

Luckily, the keyboard I'm getting does have one nice function, a button that turns off the window key.

I don't know man, it might be getting time to retire that keyboard. I mean, take it out of action before it has a career ending injury. If you truly care about it, you'd give it its much deserved retirement.








I have a old wallet, that a ex gave me when I was 17. Man, I really loved that wallet. I used that f'er for around 12 years. It got to the point that it was basically fallen apart, but, it still held the ol'money. In the end, I had to do what was best for the wallet, and replace it. Lots of history with that old wallet. I have business cards in that thing from the 90's, with old notes and crap jotted down on them.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> .
> 
> I have a old wallet, that a ex gave me when I was 17. Man, I really loved that wallet. I used that f'er for around 12 years. It got to the point that it was basically fallen apart, but, it still held the ol'money. In the end, I had to do what was best for the wallet, and replace it. Lots of history with that old wallet. I have business cards in that thing from the 90's, with old notes and crap jotted down on them.


I had one or two of those just threw them out, lots of notes and numbers that, I'm sure, are not even in service anymore., thanks you for reminding me of my age


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> @GroovyMotion - Yea, sounds like an important key for Linux than.
> 
> @ OzzRuleZ - I'm trying to think of times I use it, and I'm coming up with a blank, but, I know it proved useful once or twice... It has to.
> 
> I can think of many times I've pressed it in a game, and got f'ed over. Especially back when I played evercrack.
> 
> Luckily, the keyboard I'm getting does have one nice function, a button that turns off the window key.
> 
> I don't know man, it might be getting time to retire that keyboard. I mean, take it out of action before it has a career ending injury. If you truly care about it, you'd give it its much deserved retirement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have a old wallet, that a ex gave me when I was 17. Man, I really loved that wallet. I used that f'er for around 12 years. It got to the point that it was basically fallen apart, but, it still held the ol'money. In the end, I had to do what was best for the wallet, and replace it. Lots of history with that old wallet. I have business cards in that thing from the 90's, with old notes and crap jotted down on them.


I don't know, I'm pretty sure this thing could withstand a direct nuclear blast lol. I take it apart every few months and clean it. It shows absolutely no signs of wear. Not to mention it weighs about 6lbs. It doubles as a home protection weapon. If someone were to break in my house I can slam this thing upside the intruders head and go right back to playing Crysis. Meanwhile the intruder would probably have brain damage.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> It doubles as a home protection weapon. If someone were to break in my house I can slam this thing upside the intruders head and go right back to playing Crysis.


LOL


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caldeio*
> 
> GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3
> 
> That is the board I was talking about. Better than ECS 785gm-m at overclocking? My 1045t is stuck at 3.0ghz on the ECS board.
> Will be upgrading to 8350 and will be overclocking as well. Looking for the best performance. I do not like the asus sabertooth color. eww. Rampage is a bit expensive, idk why I'd do that.
> I will go possibly get one more gtx770 but until then I want to use my 550ti as a dedicted miner/physx card with my gtx770.


Overclocking a UD3 paired with an 8350 entirely depends on what revision MB you get and how much you put into a cooling solution for the CPU. If you get a Rev 3 MB, you may as well return it right away. Alternate choices however, don't rule out the Crosshair V Formula, even with it's $200 and up price tag. If you're getting an 8350, it'd be worth getting a high end board. The Gigabyte UD7 is a good choice too since the UD5s and UD3s have a pretty noticeable problem with voltage droop. Also, the ASUS M5A99FX Rev 2 is a very solid choice for a mid range board. If you live fairly close to a MC, I would recommend going there for your buy since the bundle deals they have would help you save a decent bit of cash over most other places. The M5A99FX ($120 after bundle savings) + 8350 ($180) would be a good $300 upgrade option... the Crosshair would be $200 after the bundle discount for a total of $380. But to be honest, I would hold off on adding a second 770 until you get the CPU/MB upgrade taken care of, you'd very likely see bottlenecking with the 1045 trying to run 770s in SLI, even with a 550Ti running PhysX.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> The Gigabyte UD7 is a good choice too since the UD5s and UD3s have a pretty noticeable problem with voltage droop.


My rev 3 UD5 doesn't have issue with Vdrop after upgrading to the most recent bios. Out of the box, without the option to disable APM in bios than it was horrible. Now, no problems at all.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> My rev 3 UD5 doesn't have issue with Vdrop after upgrading to the most recent bios. Out of the box, without the option to disable APM in bios than it was horrible. Now, no problems at all.


I have a Rev 1.1 and the updated BIOS didn't fix it for me. I still struggle to hit anything over 4.2GHz 24/7 stable on the 8120 no matter what settings I've tried, and believe me, after 2 and a half weeks of toying with BIOS for 3-5 hours a day, I tried about anything and everything imaginable, lol. Hmm... However, I've heard the Rev 3 UD5s are actually really good short of v-droop, and if the latest BIOS helped solve that, than it's worth a shot for him to try the UD5 as an option.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I have a Rev 1.1 and the updated BIOS didn't fix it for me. I still struggle to hit anything over 4.2GHz 24/7 stable on the 8120 no matter what settings I've tried, and believe me, after 2 and a half weeks of toying with BIOS for 3-5 hours a day, I tried about anything and everything imaginable, lol. Hmm... However, I've heard the Rev 3 UD5s are actually really good short of v-droop, and if the latest BIOS helped solve that, than it's worth a shot for him to try the UD5 as an option.


\

Yea, you need the latest bios for the UD5 rev 3. Without that, it's junk.

I've been able to get stable at 4.6 with my FX8320, the only reason I didn't try higher is heat. I run it at 4.4 however, because I like to keep my temps <50c at load with my H100i set to quiet profile. When stress testing using high LLC, my voltage is very stable, at my current settings, running prime95 the voltage stays between 1.392 and 1.404. It will also stay in that range if I turn on high performance mode. It doesn't throttle my multiplier, as long as I have APM disabled in bios.


----------



## M3TAl

I find it hard to believe that a 1.1 UD5 would be so much worse than a 1.1 UD3.

I've benched this 8350 all the way to 5.414 GHz now. Will do 5 GHz 24/7 too provided you have the cooling for it.


----------



## Caldeio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Overclocking a UD3 paired with an 8350 entirely depends on what revision MB you get and how much you put into a cooling solution for the CPU. If you get a Rev 3 MB, you may as well return it right away. Alternate choices however, don't rule out the Crosshair V Formula, even with it's $200 and up price tag. If you're getting an 8350, it'd be worth getting a high end board. The Gigabyte UD7 is a good choice too since the UD5s and UD3s have a pretty noticeable problem with voltage droop. Also, the ASUS M5A99FX Rev 2 is a very solid choice for a mid range board. If you live fairly close to a MC, I would recommend going there for your buy since the bundle deals they have would help you save a decent bit of cash over most other places. The M5A99FX ($120 after bundle savings) + 8350 ($180) would be a good $300 upgrade option... the Crosshair would be $200 after the bundle discount for a total of $380. But to be honest, I would hold off on adding a second 770 until you get the CPU/MB upgrade taken care of, you'd very likely see bottlenecking with the 1045 trying to run 770s in SLI, even with a 550Ti running PhysX.


I have a MC thats about a 45min/30mile drive. My gtx770 is already bottlenecked about 20-25% on my 1045t now







Just saw MC put new intel and bundle deals up, dont they have a super big sale in like a month? Just in time for taxes i hope


----------



## Bockstiegel

Hello everybody,

I am the owner of a Gigabyte 990fx-ud3 and fx-8350. Recently while cleaning my case I noticed the following.



Its on the back of the motherboard, near my CPU socket somewhire behind the following,



I believe those things with purple lines are the capicators? It should be right behind them. Is this some serious damage? My PC seems stable running Prime95 and IBT.
If somebody could give me an answer I would very much appreciate that.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Chargeit

There's something going on there. I think I'd put in a claim with GB. It looks to me like they're burning up.

I'd suggest dropping your overclock until you've got that figured out, and keeping an eye on that spot.

How long have you had the board? If it's really new, I'd try and get it refunded through the place you bought it from first, since that would likely be much quicker.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bockstiegel*
> 
> Hello everybody,
> 
> I am the owner of a Gigabyte 990fx-ud3 and fx-8350. Recently while cleaning my case I noticed the following.
> 
> 
> 
> Its on the back of the motherboard, near my CPU socket somewhire behind the following,
> 
> 
> 
> I believe those things with purple lines are the capicators? It should be right behind them. Is this some serious damage? My PC seems stable running Prime95 and IBT.
> If somebody could give me an answer I would very much appreciate that.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


yes'ir thats some grade-A VRM heat spots you got there...

Bet the board is not only warped out from that Mugen2 you got there, but from the VRM itself and the VRM cooler is probably not making contact anymore...


----------



## M3TAl

But those spots are like 30-40mm left of the actual mosfets. Coming more from where the caps are. My friend just blew his VRM on a UD3 about a month ago, there wasn't any damage over where the caps are plus Bockstiegel says his board still works.

But definitely hit up GB and ask them what's going on.


----------



## Bockstiegel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> yes'ir thats some grade-A VRM heat spots you got there...
> 
> Bet the board is not only warped out from that Mugen2 you got there, but from the VRM itself and the VRM cooler is probably not making contact anymore...


Well the VRM cooler is somewhat more to the right, the VRM's are between the 2 white plastic buds.

The motherboard is on the edge of its warranty, but guess its time to see what I can do or its time for a replacement.

Thank you!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bockstiegel*
> 
> Well the VRM cooler is somewhat more to the right, the VRM's are between the 2 white plastic buds.
> 
> The motherboard is on the edge of its warranty, but guess its time to see what I can do or its time for a replacement.
> 
> Thank you!


Shoot, If you don't mind dropping a little more cash, maybe gb will hook you up with the next version up, the "UD5". I'm not sure how they'd handle that, but, I'd think it would be worth asking about.

At least you noticed it while still under warranty.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bockstiegel*
> 
> Well the VRM cooler is somewhat more to the right, the VRM's are between the 2 white plastic buds.
> 
> The motherboard is on the edge of its warranty, but guess its time to see what I can do or its time for a replacement.
> 
> Thank you!


you are very right! Now that I look at it a little closer... Those chokes, however, do run @ the same temps the VRMs run.. but still be hitting > 100c and increasing the resistance across those caps...

From experience with the rev 1.0, 1.1, and 3.0 boards... a VRM fan was required to keep temps below 90c. My rev 4.0 on the other hand (with it's reworked VRM and chipset cooling + a VRM fan) doesn't get over 70c even in a 27c ambient office and cruel punishment @ > 1.55 vcore.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Shoot, If you don't mind dropping a little more cash, maybe gb will hook you up with the next version up, the "UD5". I'm not sure how they'd handle that, but, I'd think it would be worth asking about.
> 
> At least you noticed it while still under warranty.


I would shoot for a UD3 rev 4.0 before a UD5 or UD7... the rev 4.0 is built like a tank compared to any other boards in the family....



The rev 4 not only speads the VRMs farther apart... but has a MUCH better heatsink... On top of that its screwed to the board, not plastic push-pinned....


----------



## M3TAl

4.0 is definitely beastly compared to other revisions.


----------



## Chargeit

I never did put a fan back on my VRM after installing this H100i, I kind of figured with my current fan setup of 140mm rear, and the H100i setup as exhaust it isn't needed. However, when I was using a air cooler like the poster does, I felt like that spot might of been a dead zone for heat build up.

Damn, I now have a very uncontrollable urge to check the back of my mobo.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I never did put a fan back on my VRM after installing this H100i, I kind of figured with my current fan setup of 140mm rear, and the H100i setup as exhaust it isn't needed. However, when I was using a air cooler like the poster does, I felt like that spot might of been a dead zone for heat build up.
> 
> Damn, I now have a very uncontrollable urge to check the back of my mobo.


with a water block the "dead spot" can (and generally is) much worse.

even with great air flow across the VRM area, a fan is generally needed to "penetrate" air into the VRM & heatsink area...

I have a Excalibur 120 mounted above my VRMS... that thing can push a TON of air... but without the little 60m fan I have mounted... the VRMS with get up to 85c without it... (max 70c with it)

With the older REVs, this only gets worse..


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> with a water block the "dead spot" can (and generally is) much worse.
> 
> even with great air flow across the VRM area, a fan is generally needed to "penetrate" air into the VRM & heatsink area...
> 
> I have a Excalibur 120 mounted above my VRMS... that thing can push a TON of air... but without the little 60m fan I have mounted... the VRMS with get up to 85c without it... (max 70c with it)
> 
> With the older REVs, this only gets worse..


I might take another look at it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bockstiegel*
> 
> Hello everybody,
> 
> I am the owner of a Gigabyte 990fx-ud3 and fx-8350. Recently while cleaning my case I noticed the following.
> 
> 
> 
> Its on the back of the motherboard, near my CPU socket somewhire behind the following,
> 
> 
> 
> I believe those things with purple lines are the capicators? It should be right behind them. Is this some serious damage? My PC seems stable running Prime95 and IBT.
> If somebody could give me an answer I would very much appreciate that.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> There's something going on there. I think I'd put in a claim with GB. It looks to me like they're burning up.
> 
> I'd suggest dropping your overclock until you've got that figured out, and keeping an eye on that spot.
> 
> How long have you had the board? If it's really new, I'd try and get it refunded through the place you bought it from first, since that would likely be much quicker.


+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bockstiegel*
> 
> Well the VRM cooler is somewhat more to the right, the VRM's are between the 2 white plastic buds.
> 
> The motherboard is on the edge of its warranty, but guess its time to see what I can do or its time for a replacement.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> Shoot, If you don't mind dropping a little more cash, maybe gb will hook you up with the next version up, the "UD5". I'm not sure how they'd handle that, but, I'd think it would be worth asking about.
> 
> At least you noticed it while still under warranty.
Click to expand...

probably not, giga is pretty strict on that i have seen you get the same rev/ model you send in


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caldeio*
> 
> I have a MC thats about a 45min/30mile drive. My gtx770 is already bottlenecked about 20-25% on my 1045t now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just saw MC put new intel and bundle deals up, dont they have a super big sale in like a month? Just in time for taxes i hope


If you're willing to drop $300 for an upgrade that will let you fly with 770 SLI, MC has the i5-4670K on sale for $180 and the Gigabyte Z87-X UD4H on sale for $120 after the bundle discount and a $20 MIR and those prices are good through at least February 9th... I'm forgoing my original plan to upgrade to the Max VI Hero with the 4670K in favor of the UD4H and making a second trip to MC in as many weeks next paycheck because hell... getting a top name upper mid-range board for that low of a price.... I can deal with the aesthetic issues of it having a PCI gen 1 slot and a bunch of other slots I'll never need on it, lol.

I lucked into a helluva steal last weekend and grabbed the last 4 Black Ice GT Stealth 360mm radiators they had in stock for... get this... $85.36 including tax.

Don't worry though... I'm not forgoing my place here in the 990FXA thread at all, I'll still have my rig in the house, but it will be converted to my Steam Machine and moved into a much smaller tower.


----------



## Mega Man

my 8350 over my 3930k +RIVBE any day !


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my 8350 over my 3930k +RIVBE any day !


So you are saying that your 8350 is faster than your 3930K?


----------



## simsim44

Noob question for the GA990FX UD-7, I have been trying to get into bios But I'm not sure on the right key, I mean I see the options on the bottom of the screen during boot up but it's so fast I am unable to read them , It's like a flash. could someone tell the right key, as I type I am thinking I have not tried to hold the Delete key, I will try that on my next boot up


----------



## AnnoyinDemon

how do I update my bios, when I download the bios it comes as a exe file?


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Noob question for the GA990FX UD-7, I have been trying to get into bios But I'm not sure on the right key, I mean I see the options on the bottom of the screen during boot up but it's so fast I am unable to read them , It's like a flash. could someone tell the right key, as I type I am thinking I have not tried to hold the Delete key, I will try that on my next boot up


As soon as the system starts up you need to rapidly hit the delete key. This will get you into the BIOS.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnnoyinDemon*
> 
> how do I update my bios, when I download the bios it comes as a exe file?


I suggest using Gigabytes @bios program.

I think it should already be installed. It's worked for me every time. Just make sure your system is stable, since I don't know how it would work out if it were to crash while trying to update the bios. I've used it a few times and it worked like a charm.

http://www.gigabyte.com/MicroSite/121/tech_a_bios.htm

Make sure to download the bios you want, and than select it from the program. Don't have it try and find the latest bios.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> So you are saying that your 8350 is faster than your 3930K?


I don't think he's saying that, I think he's just saying he prefers his AMD rig over his SB-E rig.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> As soon as the system starts up you need to rapidly hit the delete key. This will get you into the BIOS.


Thank you, I did manage to get in, I have , however been unsuccessful at turning up the clocks, which just maybe a product knowledge thing, or the lack thereof. I have had Asus boards mostly 10 years or so, and a few MSI's but this is my first Gigabyte. so I will play around until I figure out what works for me. You gotta love the Comos reset button, Again thank you.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Thank you, I did manage to get in, I have , however been unsuccessful at turning up the clocks, which just maybe a product knowledge thing, or the lack thereof. I have had Asus boards mostly 10 years or so, and a few MSI's but this is my first Gigabyte. so I will play around until I figure out what works for me. You gotta love the Comos reset button, Again thank you.


What board/cpu are you using? Also, what cooler?


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> What board/cpu are you using? Also, what cooler?


UD-7, AMD 9590, H110


----------



## simsim44

I ordered this kit yesterday

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21236/ex-wat-271/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g59c683s2175&id=nTSkQ2Fc&mv_pc=1342

and I also ordered another 360, From Sidewinders, for the top of the case, I still need to save a little to get the Heatkillers GPU blocks, I will be using Feaser one coolant that I have from another build. A new unopened bottle.


----------



## Chargeit

I think the FX9590 will have less room for oc'ing. I mean, I can get this FX8320 with a H100i up to 4.6, but, at that, heat starts becoming a issue, without cooling my room. When I ran that oc test, it was freezing outside, and I opened the window (Maybe AC at 60 would work).

I know the H110 cools better than this H100i, but, how much a difference I'm not sure.

I'd wait until you get that kit in to try and take it up myself. Also, make sure to keep plenty of airflow on your VRM heatsinks, and mobo in general. Out of the box those CPU are pretty demanding.

I've had luck with setting my LLC to high, and than going from there. I found that it requires lower base voltage to get the OC I'm looking for.

What's your base voltage for the CPU?

How are you OC'ing, FSB, or multiplier? I have little experience messing with FSB. I'm not sure if that chip will OC much purely off of multiplier.

Still, wait until you get in that kit, to start OC'ing that CPU. 4.7 as a base clock is pretty good, and higher than most people with 8320/8350 will hit without extreme measures (cooling).


----------



## simsim44

going by memory I took the multiplier up one notch, from 23.5 to 24 which resulted no boot, I lowered the volt one notch and I lowered the FSB and upped the multiplier again, same result. I need to find a good temp and fan speed monitoring program that works with the Gigabyte boards. I will not attempt overclocking until I am sure the system will remain cool. I will have two 360's and a two reservoirs, I have been looking at the 150/170 tube type reservoirs only because of the room I think I will be able to get it mounted in the back panel of the case, Phanteks Enthroo Primo, both rads will be push pull. that should be enough to keep the TDP happy.


----------



## simsim44

I got another question is there a setting for USB recognizing my phone I mean it charges but don't make the normal windows plug in chimes. and my phone does not ask me for the disc drive / charge only option.


----------



## M3TAl

With an FX-9590 there is still OC headroom. You just need more voltage and the ability to handle the extra heat. You'll definitely need that Raystorm kit and should be able to get 5.0 GHz+ easy with 720mm total rad area.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my 8350 over my 3930k +RIVBE any day !
> 
> 
> 
> So you are saying that your 8350 is faster than your 3930K?
Click to expand...

no i am saying i much prefer my amd to my intel


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Noob question for the GA990FX UD-7, I have been trying to get into bios But I'm not sure on the right key, I mean I see the options on the bottom of the screen during boot up but it's so fast I am unable to read them , It's like a flash. could someone tell the right key, as I type I am thinking I have not tried to hold the Delete key, I will try that on my next boot up


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Noob question for the GA990FX UD-7, I have been trying to get into bios But I'm not sure on the right key, I mean I see the options on the bottom of the screen during boot up but it's so fast I am unable to read them , It's like a flash. could someone tell the right key, as I type I am thinking I have not tried to hold the Delete key, I will try that on my next boot up
> 
> 
> 
> As soon as the system starts up you need to rapidly hit the delete key. This will get you into the BIOS.
Click to expand...





+1
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AnnoyinDemon*
> 
> how do I update my bios, when I download the bios it comes as a exe file?


you just run the file and it will auto unzip ( think of it as a zip file, giga is nice enough to not require you to download a secondary zip program [email protected] )
after that you will have the bios file
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I ordered this kit yesterday
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21236/ex-wat-271/XSPC_Raystorm_750_EX360_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_New_Rev_4_Pump_Included_w_Free_Dead-Water.html?tl=g59c683s2175&id=nTSkQ2Fc&mv_pc=1342
> 
> and I also ordered another 360, From Sidewinders, for the top of the case, I still need to save a little to get the Heatkillers GPU blocks, I will be using Feaser one coolant that I have from another build. A new unopened bottle.


congrats ! welcome to open loops let us know if you need help with anything, i dunno if that pump can take all the blocks but i would highly suggest a water block for the nb/vrms as well !


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> With an FX-9590 there is still OC headroom. You just need more voltage and the ability to handle the extra heat. You'll definitely need that Raystorm kit and should be able to get 5.0 GHz+ easy with 720mm total rad area.


that was the plan, I have been running 4.1-4.3 on my FX6100 I was hoping to get near 6.0 with the FX9590. I will have to look into a Mosfet and VRM block for the board, I haven't seen one just yet but not done searching either.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> congrats ! welcome to open loops let us know if you need help with anything, i dunno if that pump can take all the blocks but i would highly suggest a water block for the nb/vrms as well !


Thanks. do you know if any makers have come up for one specifically UD-7 "nb/vrms"


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> With an FX-9590 there is still OC headroom. You just need more voltage and the ability to handle the extra heat. You'll definitely need that Raystorm kit and should be able to get 5.0 GHz+ easy with 720mm total rad area.
> 
> 
> 
> that was the plan, I have been running 4.1-4.3 on my FX6100 I was hoping to get near 6.0 with the FX9590. I will have to look into a Mosfet and VRM block for the board, I haven't seen one just yet but not done searching either.
Click to expand...

yea, just no, you wont get 6ghz or anywhere near . at very min you would need phase change for that

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> congrats ! welcome to open loops let us know if you need help with anything, i dunno if that pump can take all the blocks but i would highly suggest a water block for the nb/vrms as well !
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. do you know if any makers have come up for one specifically UD-7 "nb/vrms"
Click to expand...

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel-1.html

perf pcs has the best pricing on it last i knew and unfortunately it only comes in nickel


----------



## M3TAl

You'll definitely want a 2nd pump if adding mosfet and/or NB blocks. I run an XSPC X2O 750 in series with a Jingway DP-600 (EK DCP, Phobya DC12-260). Running CPU, Universal GPU, mosfet, and NB blocks.

The XSPC will run with those 4 blocks of mine but it's pretty low flow and will take forever to bleed all the bubbles. I get something like 2-3C worse temps when turning the 2nd Jingway pump off too.

Best of all these two pumps are oh so quiet. I keep all my fans at 700-800 RPM and the Jingway is inaudible when case side panels are on. My XSPC makes a very, very low hum. Amazing temps. So glad I went full custom water.


----------



## GroovyMotion

damn I am lucky my 6300 gets 4.4 stable with an H60 but with -15-30C that helps a lot!


----------



## MadGoat

H60 is a great cooler for the price... I ran my 1100t exclusively on an H60 with a ultrakaze 3k voltage mofualted to core temp @ 4.1ghz for years. The 8350 ran at 4.6 no problem with the same setup as well. And my 8350 is a dog of an overclocker...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You'll definitely want a 2nd pump if adding mosfet and/or NB blocks. I run an XSPC X2O 750 in series with a Jingway DP-600 (EK DCP, Phobya DC12-260). Running CPU, Universal GPU, mosfet, and NB blocks.
> 
> The XSPC will run with those 4 blocks of mine but it's pretty low flow and will take forever to bleed all the bubbles. I get something like 2-3C worse temps when turning the 2nd Jingway pump off too.
> 
> Best of all these two pumps are oh so quiet. I keep all my fans at 700-800 RPM and the Jingway is inaudible when case side panels are on. My XSPC makes a very, very low hum. Amazing temps. So glad I went full custom water.


How much did going custom run you?


----------



## M3TAl

Haven't added it all up but it's not cheap. I didn't buy everything at once. Picked everything I possibly could used (X2O 750 Dual bay res/pump, Jingway pump, compression and barb fittings, GPU block, and 2 more Cougar fans) on OCN or Ebay over like 4-5 months. The rest was from Performance-PCS during a November sale.


----------



## Mega Man

it really depends on how far you want to go

a basic cpu setup with mid level components ( decent pump ect 240-360) ~ 200 for everything from there it can just go up, in my main system i have ~ 1k-1.5k in watercooling alone and i still want to buy 1k more in just fittings to make it like i want. in other systems 200-240 each


----------



## simsim44

See that, I was not looking forward to dropping another grand on cooling, summers coming and I want a boat! LOL, I have all this I thought I would use some of it but in order to keep this rig out of the ghetto, and leave it pleasing to the eye, I will be forced to take action and spend the necessary dollars to obtain the look I had in mind,.... now if I could just get he wife to read that lol


----------



## Chargeit

I might do custom sooner or later. I really don't want water for looks or anything. I just wouldn't mind more cooling potential.

When I got this H100i, I had looked at what the above poster got. It looked easy enough to install. I don't know, maybe I'll start looking into a nice custom setup, or something like that. I really like the convince of this closed loop, but, I'd like to get just a little more of an OC. I mean, I can do the 4.6 with this setup, if I don't mind my CPU fans at 100%, which I do.

@simsim44 - Yea, women are a barrier to many a would be tech purchase. They just don't understand man, they don't understand...

***I got my new keyboard in today. So far I'm fairly impressed. It's of extremely good build quality, way higher than expected (you can't say that often). I'm not sure what material is used for the board, but, it almost feels metallic, though the keys have to be plastic. Its key presses are nice and smooth, with a satisfying click at the end. I especially like the sound the space bar makes.

The illuminated keys have 4 settings I think, it will take awhile to get used to it however, and I'm likely to turn it off once the new wears off. I'm not really noticing the tactical feel everyone mentions, but, I'm thinking it's mainly the blues that feel that way. I bought the brown version, since I read that they are the best compromise for gaming and typing.

The smaller size will take some getting used to, other than that, I already love it. I'm working right now, but, I can't wait to give this thing a try at gaming. Oh, and it looks really nice. I just wish they'd of fit a hand rest into the price range.


----------



## Chargeit

Hmmmm... What would a SD reader show up as under device manager? I noticed that my SD reader is no longer functioning now that this keyboard is installed.

*Now that my keyboard has physically warmed up, it feels like a very hard slightly textured plastic.

I also now notice the tactical feel people mention, there's a slight bump once the key press is read.


----------



## M3TAl

You should of got the H220. Expandable, way quieter than H100i, and better temps too.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You should of got the H220. Expandable, way quieter than H100i, and better temps too.


Yea, it's all good though. I think I'll start looking into even a nice kit, or custom. In good time. I had fooled myself into thinking I would never want full water. I still don't want to mess with it, but, I want the damned OC.

*I think I had mixed up the H220, with the cooler master 240 when I was looking, and didn't think it would fit my case.


----------



## M3TAl

The CM 240L basically is an H220 with CM fans. Radiator and pump is Swiftech.

Those Xspc kits are good as long as you don't have problems with the pump. If you're going custom you gotta decide if you're going low FPI rads, low noise or high FPI, high noise.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The CM 240L basically is an H220 with CM fans. Radiator and pump is Swiftech.
> 
> Those Xspc kits are good as long as you don't have problems with the pump. If you're going custom you gotta decide if you're going low FPI rads, low noise or high FPI, high noise.


Low noise every time. Shoot, if I didn't mind noise, I could be running at 4.6 right now, instead of 4.4.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, it's all good though. I think I'll start looking into even a nice kit, or custom. In good time. I had fooled myself into thinking I would never want full water. I still don't want to mess with it, but, I want the damned OC.
> 
> .


And that's how it starts, I didn't want to deal with it again, the twice a year flushing ( when I first did liquid additives were not an option), worrying about leaks, and levels, pump probs. the list continues, However being able to get the most out of your rig is worth the effort, if you like to be occupied with your rig. it keeps me out of trouble.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> And that's how it starts, I didn't want to deal with it again, the twice a year flushing ( when I first did liquid additives were not an option), worrying about leaks, and levels, pump probs. the list continues, However being able to get the most out of your rig is worth the effort, if you like to be occupied with your rig. it keeps me out of trouble.


Lmao, yea, keeps me out of trouble too. Since I spend all of my trouble money on my rig... "Nah, I could get a fan for the price of that 12 pack.".


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea, just no, you wont get 6ghz or anywhere near . at very min you would need phase change for that
> http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel-1.html
> 
> perf pcs has the best pricing on it last i knew and unfortunately it only comes in nickel


This place in the UK?, I will have to look in the states for it.


----------



## M3TAl

EK Waterblocks is a company based in Slovenia I think? Performance-PCS is out of Florida. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php

I like EK's blocks, have 4 of them.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> EK Waterblocks is a company based in Slovenia I think? Performance-PCS is out of Florida. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php
> 
> I like EK's blocks, have 4 of them.


Thanks, Yea I Bing-ed the block and found them, I already joined/created the account, and then I started looking at pumps. then I got side tracked and ...oh yea what was I saying... time for more meds. LOL .I'm just spent for some reason today.

I was looking at this;

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/ppcs/pump-bl.jpg


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> EK Waterblocks is a company based in Slovenia I think? Performance-PCS is out of Florida. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php
> 
> I like EK's blocks, have 4 of them.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Yea I Bing-ed the block and found them, I already joined/created the account, and then I started looking at pumps. then I got side tracked and ...oh yea what was I saying... time for more meds. LOL .I'm just spent for some reason today.
> 
> I was looking at this;
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/ppcs/pump-bl.jpg
Click to expand...

the bling is what drives up the cost quick, i will say i highly recommend compression fittings swiftech has great value esp their fittings !


----------



## simsim44

Thanks Man, I have compression fitting but would like to dress it up with nicer ones I was looking at the Mod Toys , and the Monsoons are cool looking that is what appears to be on the pump already. My order from Frozen is "out for delivery" as well as some stuff from sidewinders.

On another note; I know I said I was not going to try to clock this until I got it underwater, BUT, I have been spending a lot of time in bios, and I have yet to understand why I only have 6 cores. I think it's in a header marked for core proprietary, or something. anyway I was looking to make all 8 cores active, I know Asus boards but I am still learning the Gigabyte system. I would like to assume, I know dangerous, that all manufactures would follow a similar format for what is available as it is dictated by the cpu., or am I way off base on that?


----------



## ApegrindeR

Just finished my second build. Gig 990fxa rev 4 (newest bios f2?), 8350, hyper 212, corsair 800gs psu, corsair vengeance 2x4gb.

Just past prime95 24/7 @ 4.5ghz, cpu/nb 2600, htt link 2600, ram 1866. This was done just using multiplier.

I would like to fsb overclock. At stock settings with all power save disabled, turbo off, llc medium. Even bumping it up to 201 (200 stock) gives me no post and I come back into bios at stock settings saying it failed an overclock. I bumped the dram ratio down so the ram Is Running at 1333ish. Still no luck. I find it odd that I only have a multiplier for the cpu and the dram ratios. I have a chv-z and had an asus saberkitty rev 2 and when you change the fsb on it the ratios of the cpu/nb, htt link, and dram change as well. This is not the case with my rev 4. The dram frequencies only change when bumping up the fsb. Htt link and cpu/nb stay at 2200/2400/2600/2800/etc. Some on please shed some light.

Thanks


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ApegrindeR*
> 
> Just finished my second build. Gig 990fxa rev 4 (newest bios f2?), 8350, hyper 212, corsair 800gs psu, corsair vengeance 2x4gb.
> 
> Just past prime95 24/7 @ 4.5ghz, cpu/nb 2600, htt link 2600, ram 1866. This was done just using multiplier.
> 
> I would like to fsb overclock. At stock settings with all power save disabled, turbo off, llc medium. Even bumping it up to 201 (200 stock) gives me no post and I come back into bios at stock settings saying it failed an overclock. I bumped the dram ratio down so the ram Is Running at 1333ish. Still no luck. I find it odd that I only have a multiplier for the cpu and the dram ratios. I have a chv-z and had an asus saberkitty rev 2 and when you change the fsb on it the ratios of the cpu/nb, htt link, and dram change as well. This is not the case with my rev 4. The dram frequencies only change when bumping up the fsb. Htt link and cpu/nb stay at 2200/2400/2600/2800/etc. Some on please shed some light.
> 
> Thanks


I have been jerking with this myself for days now, when your rig comes back on/ reboot, or "load optimal default settings and boot", does it light up for a second shutdown for 2-3 seconds then try to start again, only to repeat the process on the third restart my will load the OS.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ApegrindeR*
> 
> Just finished my second build. Gig 990fxa rev 4 (newest bios f2?), 8350, hyper 212, corsair 800gs psu, corsair vengeance 2x4gb.
> 
> Just past prime95 24/7 @ 4.5ghz, cpu/nb 2600, htt link 2600, ram 1866. This was done just using multiplier.
> 
> I would like to fsb overclock. At stock settings with all power save disabled, turbo off, llc medium. Even bumping it up to 201 (200 stock) gives me no post and I come back into bios at stock settings saying it failed an overclock. I bumped the dram ratio down so the ram Is Running at 1333ish. Still no luck. I find it odd that I only have a multiplier for the cpu and the dram ratios. I have a chv-z and had an asus saberkitty rev 2 and when you change the fsb on it the ratios of the cpu/nb, htt link, and dram change as well. This is not the case with my rev 4. The dram frequencies only change when bumping up the fsb. Htt link and cpu/nb stay at 2200/2400/2600/2800/etc. Some on please shed some light.
> 
> Thanks


Your setting CPU-NB to 2600? Are you raising the voltage too? It's likely not going to post at stock voltage (1.1875V?) and 2600 MHz.


----------



## Chargeit

Hey, make sure to check out the HumbleBundle this week. They've got DiRt 3, showdown, and others. This is pretty pimp, since I was starting to want a racing game.


----------



## M3TAl

Already have Dirt 3, maybe someone is in need of a gift on my friends list


----------



## Chargeit

I'm still dling DiRT 3, but, I installed showdown, and it blanks my 2nd screen when playing, which is pretty annoying. Other than that, it ran great, and was fun. Games like this make me grateful I bought this Xbone controller a few months back. I just can't take driving cars with kb&m (Expect in borderlands 2, kb&m worked great in that.).

Oh! check out pics of my new keyboard. Lol, yea, they're blurry.













I freaking love this thing. I'd highly suggest it if looking for a fairly priced Mechanical. I still haven't got my SD card reader working since adding it though. My only thought is to unplug it, start the computer, and turn off, plug back in, and hope that works. I don't have drivers or anything for it, and there was nothing on Rosewills site.


----------



## M3TAl

I'm using an old school Xbox controller, from the original Xbox. XBCD driver.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'm using an old school Xbox controller, from the original Xbox. XBCD driver.


Yea, I have my PS3 controller, and 2 3rd party ps3 controllers. I just said screw it, and bought this thing to make my life easier, which it did. Probably the best $35 bucks I've spent. I like kb&m, but, there are just many games that work better with controllers, or, just easier. Skyrim for instance, I play with a controller, since I don't have to be super accurate, and it's more laid back. Now, something like FarCry, or Borderlands I'll use Kb&m. Most 3rd person games I also like playing with a controller.

Lots of people seem against getting them, but, I see a controller as much a part of a modern gaming rig as a mouse. I mean, it's almost like refusing to use a monitor because printers relayed information just fine back in the day.


----------



## ApegrindeR

Quote:


> I have been jerking with this myself for days now, when your rig comes back on/ reboot, or "load optimal default settings and boot", does it light up for a second shutdown for 2-3 seconds then try to start again, only to repeat the process on the third restart my will load the OS.


My rig does this just when booting. I read somewhere else that many people have been having this problem with the rev 4.0 board. It happens when you disable Turbo boost.
Quote:


> Your setting CPU-NB to 2600? Are you raising the voltage too? It's likely not going to post at stock voltage (1.1875V?) and 2600 MHz.


I guess I didn't win the chip lottery with my 8350. My stock vcore voltage is 1.375v and my stock cpu/nb voltage is 1.20v. When I am raising my FSB I have everything else at stock setting (IE cpu/nb freq clock 2200 and htt link freq 2600). It just doesn't boot into bios when I raise the FSB at ALL.

I just tried to bump the cpu/nb voltage to 1.35v and still not post into bios when raising FSB to 201.


----------



## M3TAl

Might be a bug with cpu-nb multiplier or something. my board won't post with a 9x cpu-nb multi.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Might be a bug with cpu-nb multiplier or something. my board won't post with a 9x cpu-nb multi.


my ud7 does without issue


----------



## ColonelPanic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StrongForce*
> 
> Uuhh Daym!
> 
> I'm personally glad I'll pick mine directly at my local shop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS: did you order in the USA from britain (judging by the duct tape lol)


No, I ordered from the US; the duct tape was a gag gift from one of my sisters.

Coincidentally I actually am from the UK









After this unusual experience with my 990FXA series motherboard is it safe to say we should stay away from this series? I'm saving my pennies in my Mario coin box for a new board.

Pic related.


----------



## stresd

I need some help here please. My problem is I bought a 990 UD5 rev 3 board. The first would not [amongst other things] get my Amd 9370 chip running at proper voltages or speeds after the latest bios update was installed. I RMAd the board and with the new one the chip was running at proper speeds. So the real issue with both boards was and still is that I have a GTX 770 evga card and both boards would not get past the first splash screen and then lock up. At first I tried everything other than the card. I replaced the cpu with older cpu from a working working system as well as the ram with known working ram. I tried another PSU. The PSU in the machine is a 1000 watt unit but nothing mattered. It would still lock at the splash. The very last thing I did and Im not sure why it took me so long other than I was getting vid on boot was to pull the Vid card and replace it with a gtx 480 as well as a 460 and a 570 card. All have worked and I have loaded windows 8 running those cards and thats how I found the first board would not run at proper speeds. I have seen there is a issue with compatibility with some 700 series cards and some mobos. I have contacted both evga and gigabyte and both point the finger at each other. I have had the gtx 770 working in 2 other computers so it not the card either its just the 2 together. It looks like I am left holding 2 things that wont work together so I am asking if anyone has a 770 gtx card working in this board and what manufacturer its made by. I have looked around the net and im not alone on this topic. I just would like to get a card I know will work as RMAS cost mt 35 bucks each time. I bought this at newegg and should have bought local. Last time I make that error to save 25 dollars. thanks in advance for any help. Last thing is the 770 is running latest bios and I did the try the card in the other pci slots and lo and behold would post in the pci4x slot but what good is that?


----------



## ApegrindeR

Quote:


> Might be a bug with cpu-nb multiplier or something. my board won't post with a 9x cpu-nb multi.


I don't see where i can even change the cpu/nb or htt link multipliers, I can only change the frequencies. These frequencies do not change when I push the FSB up, they do change on a chvz or asus saberkitty. They just stay at 2200/2400/2600/2800/etc on this gig 990fxa-ud3 rev 4. The DRAM frequency moves when I start messing with the FSB. Any suggestions? If it is a bug then should I take the board back for a new one?

Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 4

Thanks


----------



## StrongForce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ColonelPanic*
> 
> No, I ordered from the US; the duct tape was a gag gift from one of my sisters.
> 
> Coincidentally I actually am from the UK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After this unusual experience with my 990FXA series motherboard is it safe to say we should stay away from this series? I'm saving my pennies in my Mario coin box for a new board.
> 
> Pic related.


I've read the Rev4 is good if you can get your hands on that 1

I personally got the Asus M5a99FX Rev2 Couldn't get the Rev 4 here in swiss, but there is 2 less power phases than the Gigabyte 1 I believe so maybe a bit limited for OC /assuming your chip would handle







.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ApegrindeR*
> 
> I don't see where i can even change the cpu/nb or htt link multipliers, I can only change the frequencies. These frequencies do not change when I push the FSB up, they do change on a chvz or asus saberkitty. They just stay at 2200/2400/2600/2800/etc on this gig 990fxa-ud3 rev 4. The DRAM frequency moves when I start messing with the FSB. Any suggestions? If it is a bug then should I take the board back for a new one?
> 
> Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 4
> 
> Thanks


Don't see how that's possible when those are all based off FSB speed. You'll have to get help from someone with a Rev 4. I have no experience with that revision.


----------



## rduffy123

My UD3 just died 2 days ago it was only about 3 months old and never overlocked. I jumped ship.


----------



## M3TAl

How'd it die?


----------



## ApegrindeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Don't see how that's possible when those are all based off FSB speed. You'll have to get help from someone with a Rev 4. I have no experience with that revision.


Bring me some experience!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ApegrindeR*
> 
> I don't see where i can even change the cpu/nb or htt link multipliers, I can only change the frequencies. These frequencies do not change when I push the FSB up, they do change on a chvz or asus saberkitty. They just stay at 2200/2400/2600/2800/etc on this gig 990fxa-ud3 rev 4. The DRAM frequency moves when I start messing with the FSB. Any suggestions? If it is a bug then should I take the board back for a new one?
> 
> Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 4
> 
> Thanks


The frequencies are the multi's .... For instance, 2200 NB or HT is a multi of 11 ( 11*200=2200)

so if you bump the FSB to say 215 with 2200 selected on the NB... then the NB will be running 215*11=2365


----------



## ginger_nuts

This may of been asked before, but I am lazy, and it is 40 degrees celsius outdoors























On the UD3 rev 4.0 is SYSFAN1 4 pin header actual PWM control ?

Becoz neither my Arctic Cooling F12's or Gelid Wing 12 PWM seem to be controlled by this header.

Or am I missing something ?


----------



## simsim44

its too bad that this board does not give the option of lowering the FSB from the 200 default value. like I said earlier, this is my first Gigabyte, I have other boards from other manufactures, where you are able to lower the FSB and up the multiplier, and the RAM multiplier only has two options 8. and 9.33, whats up with that. Mega Man responded that he is able to post above default values, I would like to know what the differences are is it the BIOS version, or CPU, or just a software that is or has been overlooked by those of us that are not able to clock this. as I type and think, could it be cooling, I will soon find out on the cooling as I am putting this cpu underwater and currently investigating a Ek board block.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> This may of been asked before, but I am lazy, and it is 40 degrees celsius outdoors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the UD3 rev 4.0 is SYSFAN1 4 pin header actual PWM control ?
> 
> Becoz neither my Arctic Cooling F12's or Gelid Wing 12 PWM seem to be controlled by this header.
> 
> Or am I missing something ?


Can't say for Rev 4.0 but on 1.1 nothing is PWM except CPU_FAN. The 4th pin is a lie







. Don't you dare put a PWM capable pump on anything but CPU_FAN.

I've never heard of lowering below 200 FSB. Not sure that is even possible. The whole system is designed around a 200 FSB.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Damn.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ApegrindeR*
> 
> I don't see where i can even change the cpu/nb or htt link multipliers, I can only change the frequencies. These frequencies do not change when I push the FSB up, they do change on a chvz or asus saberkitty. They just stay at 2200/2400/2600/2800/etc on this gig 990fxa-ud3 rev 4. The DRAM frequency moves when I start messing with the FSB. Any suggestions? If it is a bug then should I take the board back for a new one?
> 
> Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 4
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> The frequencies are the multi's .... For instance, 2200 NB or HT is a multi of 11 ( 11*200=2200)
> 
> so if you bump the FSB to say 215 with 2200 selected on the NB... then the NB will be running 215*11=2365
Click to expand...

this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> This may of been asked before, but I am lazy, and it is 40 degrees celsius outdoors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the UD3 rev 4.0 is SYSFAN1 4 pin header actual PWM control ?
> 
> Becoz neither my Arctic Cooling F12's or Gelid Wing 12 PWM seem to be controlled by this header.
> 
> Or am I missing something ?


have you enabled it in bios
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> This may of been asked before, but I am lazy, and it is 40 degrees celsius outdoors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the UD3 rev 4.0 is SYSFAN1 4 pin header actual PWM control ?
> 
> Becoz neither my Arctic Cooling F12's or Gelid Wing 12 PWM seem to be controlled by this header.
> 
> Or am I missing something ?
> 
> 
> 
> Can't say for Rev 4.0 but on 1.1 nothing is PWM except CPU_FAN. The 4th pin is a lie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Don't you dare put a PWM capable pump on anything but CPU_FAN.
> 
> I've never heard of lowering below 200 FSB. Not sure that is even possible. The whole system is designed around a 200 FSB.
Click to expand...

yea in bios it says it is, but you have to enable it iirc, and on the pinouts in the manual, but i have seen them (manuals ) lie before i never have used it as pwm


----------



## M3TAl

Rev 4.0 & 1.1 manual. Pin 4 is reserve, whatever that means. Pretty sure I tested it out well over a year ago with a PWM Cougar Vortex. Didn't work, only voltage controlled.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stresd*
> 
> I need some help here please. My problem is I bought a 990 UD5 rev 3 board. The first would not [amongst other things] get my Amd 9370 chip running at proper voltages or speeds after the latest bios update was installed. I RMAd the board and with the new one the chip was running at proper speeds. So the real issue with both boards was and still is that I have a GTX 770 evga card and both boards would not get past the first splash screen and then lock up. At first I tried everything other than the card. I replaced the cpu with older cpu from a working working system as well as the ram with known working ram. I tried another PSU. The PSU in the machine is a 1000 watt unit but nothing mattered. It would still lock at the splash. The very last thing I did and Im not sure why it took me so long other than I was getting vid on boot was to pull the Vid card and replace it with a gtx 480 as well as a 460 and a 570 card. All have worked and I have loaded windows 8 running those cards and thats how I found the first board would not run at proper speeds. I have seen there is a issue with compatibility with some 700 series cards and some mobos. I have contacted both evga and gigabyte and both point the finger at each other. I have had the gtx 770 working in 2 other computers so it not the card either its just the 2 together. It looks like I am left holding 2 things that wont work together so I am asking if anyone has a 770 gtx card working in this board and what manufacturer its made by. I have looked around the net and im not alone on this topic. I just would like to get a card I know will work as RMAS cost mt 35 bucks each time. I bought this at newegg and should have bought local. Last time I make that error to save 25 dollars. thanks in advance for any help. Last thing is the 770 is running latest bios and I did the try the card in the other pci slots and lo and behold would post in the pci4x slot but what good is that?


First what is your total build list of components? There could be something else at play as well.

Ideas off the top of my head in the mean time...

Despite the Bios having done the BIOS update, and even with the UD5 being on AMD's QVL for the FX- 9xxx series, some boards just aren't up to snuff. One other thing to try is doing a complete removal off Catalyst and the NVidia drivers and do a fresh install of the most recent official launch from NVidia. Also, another possibly might be too much load for the PSU. Those 9xxx series FX chips suck down a lot of juice. Most likely scenario is a driver conflict from there being leftover registry files for the drivers, and the AMD and NVidia drivers are not playing nice with one another.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Rev 4.0 & 1.1 manual. Pin 4 is reserve, whatever that means. Pretty sure I tested it out well over a year ago with a PWM Cougar Vortex. Didn't work, only voltage controlled.


your right, but it specifically says PWM signal in bios so yea that is weird


----------



## M3TAl

On UD7? Maybe it is true PWM on UD7.


----------



## ApegrindeR

Quote:


> The frequencies are the multi's .... For instance, 2200 NB or HT is a multi of 11 ( 11*200=2200)
> 
> so if you bump the FSB to say 215 with 2200 selected on the NB... then the NB will be running 215*11=2365


Makes sense. Ill give it a try. I suppose I just find it odd that when you manipulate the FSB that the DRAM frequencies change accordingly, but I have to do some simple math in order to determine what my htt link and cpu/nb frequencies are going to be when I change my FSB.

Thanks for the info.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ApegrindeR*
> 
> Makes sense. Ill give it a try. I suppose I just find it odd that when you manipulate the FSB that the DRAM frequencies change accordingly, but I have to do some simple math in order to determine what my htt link and cpu/nb frequencies are going to be when I change my FSB.
> 
> Thanks for the info.


No, I hear ya. I thought the very same thing when I first got my board too... But there are also many more things I think Gigabyte did on a Monday with thpretty much all the bios's for the 990fxa line up. Gigabyte needs bios building schoolin'...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ApegrindeR*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The frequencies are the multi's .... For instance, 2200 NB or HT is a multi of 11 ( 11*200=2200)
> 
> so if you bump the FSB to say 215 with 2200 selected on the NB... then the NB will be running 215*11=2365
> 
> 
> 
> Makes sense. Ill give it a try. I suppose I just find it odd that when you manipulate the FSB that the DRAM frequencies change accordingly, but I have to do some simple math in order to determine what my htt link and cpu/nb frequencies are going to be when I change my FSB.
> 
> Thanks for the info.
Click to expand...

yea fyi these boards are gigas first uefi bios attempts for amd, so .. they have a ton of stupid in them did it on their first uefi for intel too. they will be fixed in their next board.


----------



## Chargeit

Have any of you had luck with Gigabyte mail ins? I sent mine in 3 months ago, and still waiting on it. I mean, it's not a huge deal, only 20 bucks, but, I like getting what's mine you know. Shoot, mail ins are what makes me so impressed with Corsair, they get them to you in a month, at least the 2 I've done with them.


----------



## Bockstiegel

So, after some days Gigabyte has sent me a reply to my email. They say the spots behind my capacitors are caused by the backplate of my Scythe Mugen 2 leaking its glue, I dont now what to thing of this but the colour of the spots seem to be quite plausible for glue. Tomorrow I will take my motherboard out of its case to inspect for more traces of "glue" around the backplate. I will also remove the backplate to have a good look at that.

If its glue it would also somewhat explain why my system is still stable.


----------



## MadGoat

hmmm, if its glue... then clean it with some electrokleen (with the system off, and PSU off and leaked down... ) ... If its glue, it will come right off... if it's burnt... you'll be able to tell...


----------



## Bockstiegel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> hmmm, if its glue... then clean it with some electrokleen (with the system off, and PSU off and leaked down... ) ... If its glue, it will come right off... if it's burnt... you'll be able to tell...


I live in europe, I looked on the internet but I cant find a store that sells Electrokleen. Does anyone know an equivalent that you can buy in europe?


----------



## MadGoat

Electronic Cleaner

it just a spray can of awesome cleaning solution that dries quick, also known as contact cleaner...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Electronic Cleaner
> 
> it just a spray can of awesome cleaning solution that dries quick, also known as contact cleaner...


Wouldn't some 91% do just fine? Crap, I use that stuff to clean all kinds of things. It does wonders for game controller buttons.


----------



## simsim44

The three things I use,


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> The three things I use,


Yea. Some basic cleaning supplies do wonders. Also, you're not paying crazy amounts for "specialty" products.

I use 91% for things like thermal paste, controller buttons, keyboard, and my laptop. For my monitors, I just use warm water, and than dry it off with a dry cloth. Works great.

*Warm water/dry cloth cleans your monitor, without leaving water marks. You don't want to let liquids dry on them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Electronic Cleaner
> 
> it just a spray can of awesome cleaning solution that dries quick, also known as contact cleaner...
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't some 91% do just fine? Crap, I use that stuff to clean all kinds of things. It does wonders for game controller buttons.
Click to expand...

yes, even nail polish remover will work


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Wouldn't some 91% do just fine? Crap, I use that stuff to clean all kinds of things. It does wonders for game controller buttons.


Dude, 90+% IPA is one of the best all purpose cleaning choices there is hands down. I use it on basically everything but glass, lol.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea. Some basic cleaning supplies do wonders. Also, you're not paying crazy amounts for "specialty" products.
> 
> I use 91% for things like thermal paste, controller buttons, keyboard, and my laptop. For my monitors, I just use warm water, and than dry it off with a dry cloth. Works great.
> 
> *Warm water/dry cloth cleans your monitor, without leaving water marks. You don't want to let liquids dry on them.


Nice tip for the monitors!
I use wet ones that I get at costco for my office they are cheap and come in 3 huge packs.
So my rig is extremely stable @4.4 so now it's time to make it to 4.5! Running stock with turbo in FSX really suck big time it's incredible, in dense areas it can slow down to 3-4fps!


----------



## savvalex

Hello everyone!

I've recently upgraded my desktop pc and bought a 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 (bios F2). I'm experiencing shutdowns, especially when I play games or under heavy multitasking, so I suspect that there's an overheating issue. This notion is supported by the fact that, if I immediately turn on my pc, I usually get another shutdown when I log onto windows. I've read other members' comments on overheating issues with this motherboard, but I'm no expert on overclocking, so I'm unfamiliar with many terms. Please note that I haven't tried any type of overclocking so far, nor am I interested in it at the moment.

My specs:
m/b - 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 (bios F2)
cpu - amd fx-6350
ram - g.skill sniper 2x4gb f3-14900cl9d
sdd - samsung 840 evo
gpu - asus ati hd5850
psu - 750w
2 optical drives
2 hdds
OS - Windows 7 64bit ultimate

Does anyone have any ideas about the bios changes I need to do in order for the system to remain stable? Any help would be truly appreciated, since I went through the trouble of upgrading just to play games, which isn't possible at the moment...


----------



## Caldeio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I've recently upgraded my desktop pc and bought a 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 (bios F2). I'm experiencing shutdowns, especially when I play games or under heavy multitasking, so I suspect that there's an overheating issue. This notion is supported by the fact that, if I immediately turn on my pc, I usually get another shutdown when I log onto windows. I've read other members' comments on overheating issues with this motherboard, but I'm no expert on overclocking, so I'm unfamiliar with many terms. Please note that I haven't tried any type of overclocking so far, nor am I interested in it at the moment.
> 
> My specs:
> m/b - 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 (bios F2)
> cpu - amd fx-6350
> ram - g.skill sniper 2x4gb f3-14900cl9d
> sdd - samsung 840 evo
> gpu - asus ati hd5850
> psu - 750w
> 2 optical drives
> 2 hdds
> OS - Windows 7 64bit ultimate
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas about the bios changes I need to do in order for the system to remain stable? Any help would be truly appreciated, since I went through the trouble of upgrading just to play games, which isn't possible at the moment...


the confidence in this board is lacking, I'm not gonna get it. sabertooth for me









did you try enabling IDE in bios instead of AHCI or whatever?


----------



## savvalex

I can't imagine what good will that do me, but I'll give it a shot. I wanted to take full advantage of my ssd, that's why I never touched that option


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caldeio*
> 
> the confidence in this board is lacking, I'm not gonna get it. sabertooth for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you try enabling IDE in bios instead of AHCI or whatever?


My UD5 rev 3 runs flawless with a updated bios.

I have no stability issues at all, and have been able to get my fx8320 stable at 4.6. The only reason I haven't tried higher, is heat. Heat is also the reason I run at 4.4, instead of 4.6. I like to stay <50c at load, and my current oc tends to not go pass 47c.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> I can't imagine what good will that do me, but I'll give it a shot. I wanted to take full advantage of my ssd, that's why I never touched that option


*Get a program to monitor temps*. I'd suggest "*HWMonitor*".

http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

Try running some games with your case open, and a large fan blasting the inside of your system.

Make sure all fans are working in your system. Mainly CPU / GPU.

*You might need to Reset your CPU heatsink.*

***The fact that it won't start correctly after it shuts off, is clearly overheating. Without a doubt. I think you need to do the thermal paste again.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice tip for the monitors!
> I use wet ones that I get at costco for my office they are cheap and come in 3 huge packs.
> So my rig is extremely stable @4.4 so now it's time to make it to 4.5! Running stock with turbo in FSX really suck big time it's incredible, in dense areas it can slow down to 3-4fps!


Yea, it's a great way to clean your tv, monitors, whatever you don't want to leave water marks on.

Nice about the OC. Without a doubt, 3-4 fps in anything just blows.


----------



## savvalex

The trick with IDE failed as usual - I reverted to AHCI. I've recently un-dusted the interior of my desktop and my case has 3 120mm fans and 1 80mm fan, so i believe the airflow is quite adequate. I'll run the test program and post back when i see the results. Thanks


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> The trick with IDE failed as usual - I reverted to AHCI. I've recently un-dusted the interior of my desktop and my case has 3 120mm fans and 1 80mm fan, so i believe the airflow is quite adequate. I'll run the test program and post back when i see the results. Thanks


What heatsink are you using for your CPU? I'd suggest adding a good aftermarket one if you're using the stock heatsink. The "Hyper 212 evo", by coolermaster is a very good modestly priced heatsink. It will keep your CPU especially cool at stock settings.

What case do you have?

How are your fans placed?

I don't think any of the above are your issues, just useful information to have.


----------



## savvalex

My case is an NZXT lexa blackline, it has a 12cm fan in the lower front (HDDs), one 12cm fan on the lower left side (similar level with my graphics card) , one 12cm fan at the back side and one 8cm fan on the top side.

I'm using stock cooler. I've run a program called aida64 to monitor/log temperatures and voltages while playing.
Max cpu temp: 36 C, max gpu temp 57 C, max NB temp: 48 C.

What struck me as odd is that just before the shutdown (oh yes, I always get one of those!!!), there was a sudden drop in cpu voltage from 1.36 to 0.86. I don't know if that's of any relevance


----------



## Chargeit

How's it shutting down? Does it blue screen, freeze, or just lose power?

That does sound like a major voltage drop, but, if you haven't messed with power settings in bios, than I don't think it should be a deal, since this is just a default behavior.

You could try running in "high performance mode", and see if it still drops like that, and shuts off. There should be no reason that it would kill with default settings while gaming out of the box though. Also, if I'm not in high performance mode, my 8320 drops voltage from 1.416, to 0.948 at times. You CPU should require less voltage than mine, I'd think.

Also, what PSU are you using?

You might want to run some stress tests.

First, I'd try prime95, keeping close eye on your CPU temps. If it's able to pass Prime95, try running Heaven benchmark. You might also want to look into running memtest86 to test your ram. Memtest would have to be installed to a usb drive, and than booted off of.

*Prime95*
http://www.mersenne.org/freesoft/

*Heaven*
http://unigine.com/products/heaven/

*memtest86*
http://www.memtest.org/

Run prime95 for 2 hours, if that passes, than run heaven, setting it to max, and just allowing it to run without worrying about benchmarking for 30 min - 1 hour.

Assuming both of those pass, run memtest86 for 2 hours.

Make sure to monitor your temps especially when running prime95.


----------



## savvalex

Thanks for the quick reply.

I've already run memtest last night, 4 passes / no errors. My PSU is a powerline(i think) 750W. I've thought about the psu too, but isn't 750W enough? I don't know...

I'll try the stress tests and see if anything comes out


----------



## Caldeio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> My UD5 rev 3 runs flawless with a updated bios.
> 
> I have no stability issues at all, and have been able to get my fx8320 stable at 4.6. The only reason I haven't tried higher, is heat. Heat is also the reason I run at 4.4, instead of 4.6. I like to stay <50c at load, and my current oc tends to not go pass 47c.


ud3 rev 4.0 If i was gonna get the ud5, i'd just get the sabertooth.


----------



## rduffy123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> How'd it die?


No clue it was always run cool and never even overclocked. Just randomly died overnight and wouldn't turn on. Had to get a new mobo and ram.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caldeio*
> 
> ud3 rev 4.0 If i was gonna get the ud5, i'd just get the sabertooth.


With mail in the UD5 is something like 30 bucks less than a sabertooth. Of course I haven't got my mail in yet.

I'd just buy the sabertooth if you're worried about it.

From my experience with this board however, it works great after the bios is upgraded.

Also, if it seems like a lot of people have issues, it's most likely because most people don't come and post on a computer forums when their system is working fine. Most aren't going to just come in to say, "Hey, this board works great!".

I picked up this UD5 because I'm a sucker for a deal. It works fine. My first gb board was a 970a-ud3 rev 3 which would throttle my CPU no matter what I did.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply.
> 
> I've already run memtest last night, 4 passes / no errors. My PSU is a powerline(i think) 750W. I've thought about the psu too, but isn't 750W enough? I don't know...
> 
> I'll try the stress tests and see if anything comes out


I'm sorry, I never heard of powerline before. I also wasn't able to quickly find their products. 750w should be more than enough to power your system. Now, if Powerline make questionable PSU, than it could be an issue. Since your PSU is extremely important, it's best to get a nice, 80 plus or better rated PSU, from a well know manufacturer. Once again, I've never heard of Powerline, but, that doesn't mean anything, since I'm no PSU expert. Now, if it is a poor PSU, than it could say it's 750w, and really be 300w, or 350w. Also, cheap psu have a much higher chance of damaging your hardware.

Try to find out the exact model of your PSU. Figure out if it's rated. Also, how old is the PSU?


----------



## savvalex

The psu has been stored in a warehouse for a year, but when I got it it was brand new. I'll have to check the exact brand tomorrow...
Regarding the manner of shutdowns, it's definitely a loss of power


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply.
> 
> I've already run memtest last night, 4 passes / no errors. My PSU is a powerline(i think) 750W. I've thought about the psu too, but isn't 750W enough? I don't know...
> 
> I'll try the stress tests and see if anything comes out


Refer to my post in the other thread about your system.

PSU could also be the culprit. Sometimes they're faulty, just like anything else can be. 750W is more than enough if it's a good brand/model. Personally I've never heard of Powerline... I would definitely try a different PSU.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> The psu has been stored in a warehouse for a year, but when I got it it was brand new. I'll have to check the exact brand tomorrow...
> Regarding the manner of shutdowns, it's definitely a loss of power


I'd suggest looking into a PSU from a know company.

Ok, my laptop was having overheating issues about 2 weeks ago that I was blaming on everything from power supply, to ram. One of the symptoms that made me think it was power related was the fact it would just kill, as if someone just pulled the power. Well, after doing some more digging I figured out that the issue was my GPU chip overheating. So, you could lose power like that, from more than just a faulty PSU. However, I would suggest looking into a better PSU no matter.

If you fail prime95, at stock settings, without overheating (max recommended temp for your chip is 62c, though you can go over some when testing), than it might be your PSU.

If you're able to pass prime95, but fail heaven, you may be having GPU issues.

If for some reason you pass both... Than I have no clue, I don't expect you to pass one or the other.









But, like M3TAI mentioned, you should really look into a better PSU, even if that doesn't end up being the cause of your problems. A poor quality PSU will lead to nothing but trouble in the long run.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> I've recently upgraded my desktop pc and bought a 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 (bios F2). I'm experiencing shutdowns, especially when I play games or under heavy multitasking, so I suspect that there's an overheating issue. This notion is supported by the fact that, if I immediately turn on my pc, I usually get another shutdown when I log onto windows. I've read other members' comments on overheating issues with this motherboard, but I'm no expert on overclocking, so I'm unfamiliar with many terms. Please note that I haven't tried any type of overclocking so far, nor am I interested in it at the moment.
> 
> My specs:
> m/b - 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 (bios F2)
> cpu - amd fx-6350
> ram - g.skill sniper 2x4gb f3-14900cl9d
> sdd - samsung 840 evo
> gpu - asus ati hd5850
> psu - 750w
> 2 optical drives
> 2 hdds
> OS - Windows 7 64bit ultimate
> 
> Does anyone have any ideas about the bios changes I need to do in order for the system to remain stable? Any help would be truly appreciated, since I went through the trouble of upgrading just to play games, which isn't possible at the moment...


i love my aida64, but i still reccomend hwinfo over all others ( esp hwmonitor and coretemp as it has known issues with amd )

besides the known issues with those hwinfo is just over all a better program as it shows you not only EVERY tempand or other stat that is useful, current min max and average !

it sounds to me like you are downclocking, for some reason, i would start by disabling ALL powersaving and going from there,
CnQ, APM, C1E, C6

also to note you may need to reinstall windows,

your psu you should ask shilka as it is very very important ! besides that i doubt it is a psu issue, if your vcore is dropping. then it is the VRMs doing it, i have never heard of a psu not giving less then 12v intermittently ( key word ), not saying it can not happen. but very very unlikely !

also upper right hand corner of this page "Rigbuilder" will help us help you, then google "overclock.net how to put rig in sig" and do that.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, it's a great way to clean your tv, monitors, whatever you don't want to leave water marks on.
> 
> Nice about the OC. Without a doubt, 3-4 fps in anything just blows.


Yeah...but now I have serious black spots in dense areas because the GPU can't keep up with the CPU so it takes much longer to load textures!
I am now rock stable @4.5, but like you, I only OC when I run my game...no point of OC'ing when your editing CSS and HTML!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah...but now I have serious black spots in dense areas because the GPU can't keep up with the CPU so it takes much longer to load textures!
> I am now rock stable @4.5, but like you, I only OC when I run my game...no point of OC'ing when your editing CSS and HTML!


Ugh, yea that sucks. I know that game isn't supposed to be GPU intensive, but, I doubt a better one would do anything but help.

Oh, yea you use the High performance power profile? It works well for me. I do forget to turn it on, or off half the time, but, no harm, no foul.

Oh, I played Civ 5 for the first time today since getting my 780. It's crazy, I had assumed the game was CPU limited, but, now, with my 780, vs my 7850, it runs great at max settings, 1080p. The only issue is it locks itself into 50 fps, instead of 60. Still, I don't mind 50, if it's a constant 50. I'm not saying that Civ 5 needs super high fps, but, everything about it is just so damned smooth now.

I'm going to have to go back and make sure everything is max. All the setting were on high, and all the options checked.

Oh, also, I hadn't played it since before getting my H100i, and this nice, stable and cool 4.4 OC.

**I'm not sure how the fps, and smoothness would hold up if it was on the largest map, fully explored. I'm sure that can bring any system to its knees.

***The Humble Bundle has Civ 3, 4, and 5. up. It was a $15 min for "Brave New World", which was the part I needed. I bought it, and gave one of my friends civ 3, and civ 5 + gods n kings, since I already had. But, $15 bucks for Civ 4, and Brave New World, deal. (Oh, and a few others, including Railroad tycoon... I really wish Civ 1 & 2 would of been included, oh well.


----------



## tangobravo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> I'm experiencing shutdowns, especially when I play games or under heavy multitasking, so I suspect that there's an overheating issue. This notion is supported by the fact that, if I immediately turn on my pc, I usually get another shutdown when I log onto windows. I've read other members' comments on overheating issues with this motherboard, but I'm no expert on overclocking, so I'm unfamiliar with many terms. Please note that I haven't tried any type of overclocking so far, nor am I interested in it at the moment.


I'm having similar issues, and this is a with a fresh, new build for me as well. I'm running a 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 w/ the F2 BIOS. I also am getting shutdowns. I get at least one per running period. When I turn on my pc, I'll get a shutdown shortly after I log into windows, if not before - while the system is sitting at the login screen. Also the system won't properly wake up from sleep. Regularly it won't respond to the power button, and I have to remove all power from the system. Once I reconnect power will it respond to the power switch. Oddly, any reason won't be logged in Windows Logs (Admin Console). All I get is "the previous system shutdown was unexpected."

My specs:

MB - 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 (bios F2)
CPU - AMD FX-8350
RAM - 8GB Corsair XMS3 - CMX8GX3M2A1600C9
SSD - 256GB OCZ Agility4
HDD - 2 x WD 640GB Black
GPU - Gigabyte R687OC 1GB
PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA NEX750G
OS - Windows 7 64bit Ultimate


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Ugh, yea that sucks. I know that game isn't supposed to be GPU intensive, but, I doubt a better one would do anything but help.
> 
> Oh, yea you use the High performance power profile? It works well for me. I do forget to turn it on, or off half the time, but, no harm, no foul.
> 
> Oh, I played Civ 5 for the first time today since getting my 780. It's crazy, I had assumed the game was CPU limited, but, now, with my 780, vs my 7850, it runs great at max settings, 1080p. The only issue is it locks itself into 50 fps, instead of 60. Still, I don't mind 50, if it's a constant 50. I'm not saying that Civ 5 needs super high fps, but, everything about it is just so damned smooth now.
> 
> I'm going to have to go back and make sure everything is max. All the setting were on high, and all the options checked.
> 
> Oh, also, I hadn't played it since before getting my H100i, and this nice, stable and cool 4.4 OC.
> 
> **I'm not sure how the fps, and smoothness would hold up if it was on the largest map, fully explored. I'm sure that can bring any system to its knees.
> 
> ***The Humble Bundle has Civ 3, 4, and 5. up. It was a $15 min for "Brave New World", which was the part I needed. I bought it, and gave one of my friends civ 3, and civ 5 + gods n kings, since I already had. But, $15 bucks for Civ 4, and Brave New World, deal. (Oh, and a few others, including Railroad tycoon... I really wish Civ 1 & 2 would of been included, oh well.


Oh no lol I totally forgot about your high performance trick! I'll do it today!
Getting a better card will improve texture quality, it wont boost the FPS but maybe help because it's a pain having large blocks of black textures until you fly over them!
Nice about the bundle deal! I haven't tried any of the Civ in ages.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangobravo*
> 
> I'm having similar issues, and this is a with a fresh, new build for me as well. I'm running a 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 w/ the F2 BIOS. I also am getting shutdowns. I get at least one per running period. When I turn on my pc, I'll get a shutdown shortly after I log into windows, if not before - while the system is sitting at the login screen. Also the system won't properly wake up from sleep. Regularly it won't respond to the power button, and I have to remove all power from the system. Once I reconnect power will it respond to the power switch. Oddly, any reason won't be logged in Windows Logs (Admin Console). All I get is "the previous system shutdown was unexpected."
> 
> My specs:
> 
> MB - 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 (bios F2)
> CPU - AMD FX-8350
> RAM - 8GB Corsair XMS3 - CMX8GX3M2A1600C9
> SSD - 256GB OCZ Agility4
> HDD - 2 x WD 640GB Black
> GPU - Gigabyte R687OC 1GB
> PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA NEX750G
> OS - Windows 7 64bit Ultimate


I'm beginning to think that with all the people having problems with UD3s, regardless of what revision they get, that any time my friends ask what board to go with in that price range that I'll start strongly pointing them towards the ASUS M5A99FX Pro. My best friend has that board in a pretty comparable rig to yours and has never had issues with it.

ASUS M5A99FX Pro Rev 1.1
FX-8320 @ 4.4 GHz w/ Thermaltake Frio OC edition
8GB DDR3-1600 GSkill Ripjaws X - F3-12800CL7D-8GBXM
250GB Samsung 840 SSD
2x WD 2TB Caviar Green (Raid 1)
ASUS GTX 770-DC2OC-2GD5
EVGA SuperNOVA NEX750G
Windows 7 Pro 64 bit

I honestly feel bad for all you guys out there with UD3 boards cause Gigabyte seems to flat out deny any issues with them and has dragged so many of you through the muck about RMA support and troubleshooting help.


----------



## savvalex

Firstly, I'm very sorry for the late replies, there's probably a huge time difference with many of you, considering that I live in europe








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Refer to my post in the other thread about your system.
> 
> PSU could also be the culprit. Sometimes they're faulty, just like anything else can be. 750W is more than enough if it's a good brand/model. Personally I've never heard of Powerline... I would definitely try a different PSU.


PSU brand is Powersonic ps-750W. I know that the brand is largely unknown, but I would prefer to identify the PSU as a culprit first, before I spend my hard-earned money for a new one









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'd suggest looking into a PSU from a know company.
> 
> Ok, my laptop was having overheating issues about 2 weeks ago that I was blaming on everything from power supply, to ram. One of the symptoms that made me think it was power related was the fact it would just kill, as if someone just pulled the power. Well, after doing some more digging I figured out that the issue was my GPU chip overheating. So, you could lose power like that, from more than just a faulty PSU. However, I would suggest looking into a better PSU no matter.
> 
> If you fail prime95, at stock settings, without overheating (max recommended temp for your chip is 62c, though you can go over some when testing), than it might be your PSU.
> 
> If you're able to pass prime95, but fail heaven, you may be having GPU issues.
> 
> If for some reason you pass both... Than I have no clue, I don't expect you to pass one or the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, like M3TAI mentioned, you should really look into a better PSU, even if that doesn't end up being the cause of your problems. A poor quality PSU will lead to nothing but trouble in the long run.


I'll run the tests today and see what comes out. The thing is a don't really know what I should be looking for, there's just too many options
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i love my aida64, but i still reccomend hwinfo over all others ( esp hwmonitor and coretemp as it has known issues with amd )
> 
> besides the known issues with those hwinfo is just over all a better program as it shows you not only EVERY tempand or other stat that is useful, current min max and average !
> 
> it sounds to me like you are downclocking, for some reason, i would start by disabling ALL powersaving and going from there,
> CnQ, APM, C1E, C6
> 
> also to note you may need to reinstall windows,
> 
> your psu you should ask shilka as it is very very important ! besides that i doubt it is a psu issue, if your vcore is dropping. then it is the VRMs doing it, i have never heard of a psu not giving less then 12v intermittently ( key word ), not saying it can not happen. but very very unlikely !
> 
> also upper right hand corner of this page "Rigbuilder" will help us help you, then google "overclock.net how to put rig in sig" and do that.


APM, I have tried disabling with no success, but I'll try disabling the rest as well. I've just downloaded hwinfo and I'll give it a shot. About reinstalling windows, this is the third time I've installed windows 7 in just one week. This time I tried to keep installation of programs to a minimum, to avoid interferences, and I used the most recent drivers for all my devices from the web, instead of the provided cds/dvds.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tangobravo*
> 
> I'm having similar issues, and this is a with a fresh, new build for me as well. I'm running a 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 w/ the F2 BIOS. I also am getting shutdowns. I get at least one per running period. When I turn on my pc, I'll get a shutdown shortly after I log into windows, if not before - while the system is sitting at the login screen. Also the system won't properly wake up from sleep. Regularly it won't respond to the power button, and I have to remove all power from the system. Once I reconnect power will it respond to the power switch. Oddly, any reason won't be logged in Windows Logs (Admin Console). All I get is "the previous system shutdown was unexpected."
> 
> My specs:
> 
> MB - 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 (bios F2)
> CPU - AMD FX-8350
> RAM - 8GB Corsair XMS3 - CMX8GX3M2A1600C9
> SSD - 256GB OCZ Agility4
> HDD - 2 x WD 640GB Black
> GPU - Gigabyte R687OC 1GB
> PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA NEX750G
> OS - Windows 7 64bit Ultimate


I have a very similar finding. After each shutdown, my pc won't turn back on by pressing the power button. I have to switch off my psu, wait a few seconds so that all power drains from the system, then turn it back on. Almost half of the times, the next reboot results in another shutdown the moment I log onto windows. Otherwise, the system remains stable for hours under low usage.


----------



## Chargeit

In Prime95, Run the Blend test, if that works out, you might want to try Small FFTs. THere is a option in the program to run torture tests. You're looking for your CPU overheating, or for a crash. When you're done with this program, make sure to stop the tests, and full exit it. You have to right click on it in your task bar Notification are, selecting exit to do this.

After that, you run heaven, setting all of the graphical options max. You shouldn't mess with the 3D options. In this one You're looking to see if your GPU overheats, or for a crash. Just start it up, but don't worry about benchmarking.

***As far as having to disable power saving setting in your bios, I don't understand why crashes should be acceptable at stock with them on. That is clearly not correct, which is the reason I didn't bother suggesting turning any of them off... It is designed to run fine with them on, even when gaming. Since you aren't overclocking, and are working on stock cooling, I'd be careful with disabling some of them. I really suggest at least getting something like this below. Even at stock, your system will thank you for it.

*Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO*
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

It's only $35 USD, which should make it about $1.50 where you are


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> I have a very similar finding. After each shutdown, *my pc won't turn back on by pressing the power button. I have to switch off my psu, wait a few seconds so that all power drains from the system*, then turn it back on. Almost half of the times, the next reboot results in another shutdown the moment I log onto windows. Otherwise, the system remains stable for hours under low usage.


I have the exact same issue with my Asrock 990FX Extreme 3. The motherboard fails to post unless I switch off the PSU for several seconds or whenever I clear the CMOS. Other than that, I'm not running into the shutdown issue on login with this motherboard.

Tried different CPUs (Phenom II X4 965, Athlon II X2, FX-8350) and PSUs and issue still persist.

Was thinking of getting a UD3 Rev.4.0 as a replacement, though seeing the same problem going around is holding me off on getting one.


----------



## savvalex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> I have the exact same issue with my Asrock 990FX Extreme 3. The motherboard fails to post unless I switch off the PSU for several seconds or whenever I clear the CMOS. Other than that, I'm not running into the shutdown issue on login with this motherboard.
> 
> Tried different CPUs (Phenom II X4 965, Athlon II X2, FX-8350) and PSUs and issue still persist.
> 
> Was thinking of getting a UD3 Rev.4.0 as a replacement, though seeing the same problem going around is holding me off on getting one.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> In Prime95, Run the Blend test, if that works out, you might want to try Small FFTs. THere is a option in the program to run torture tests. You're looking for your CPU overheating, or for a crash. When you're done with this program, make sure to stop the tests, and full exit it. You have to right click on it in your task bar Notification are, selecting exit to do this.
> 
> After that, you run heaven, setting all of the graphical options max. You shouldn't mess with the 3D options. In this one You're looking to see if your GPU overheats, or for a crash. Just start it up, but don't worry about benchmarking.
> 
> ***As far as having to disable power saving setting in your bios, I don't understand why crashes should be acceptable at stock with them on. That is clearly not correct, which is the reason I didn't bother suggesting turning any of them off... It is designed to run fine with them on, even when gaming. Since you aren't overclocking, and are working on stock cooling, I'd be careful with disabling some of them. I really suggest at least getting something like this below. Even at stock, your system will thank you for it.
> 
> *Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO*
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
> 
> It's only $35 USD, which should make it about $1.50 where you are


I run the prime95 blend small ffts test for about 20min and recorded temps/voltages throughout the process. PC didn't crash while being tested. Temperatures seemed fairly ok. These are the numbers I got moments before stopping the test. Some voltage values seem rather extreme and abnormal.



Here comes the odd part. The moment I pressed the "stop" button to terminate the test I got a power-off. For the first time I got immediate shutdowns for three consecutive times , when I tried to log onto windows. Left the pc alone for a while to cool off and now I'm back online posting!!! Therefore I think it's not a psu or graphics card problem, just like Roaches said.


----------



## savvalex

Reposting pic

p-all.jpg 681k .jpg file


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> Reposting pic
> 
> p-all.jpg 681k .jpg file


I don't think the highlighted numbers are odd, I was able to find other examples of it. I could be wrong though, wait on some others.

I still suggest running heaven for about an hour, to see what happens.

The thing is, the issue you're having, remind me a lot of when my laptops on board GPU chip was overheating... My computer would run fine, unless put under stress at first. Also, things such as a screen saver, or going into sleep would cause it to lose power. I was able to run prime95 (I think it even killed once when I stopped prime95), but, couldn't run heaven. If it would power off towards the end, it would take awhile before I could start it back up. I was able to pass memtest at first, but, later, it would get about 5 min in and die.

I noticed you have some upload/download going on. I'm not sure what's up with that, but, I suggest starting your monitoring fresh when doing a stress test, so you know all of your numbers are coming from it. Also, don't reset your numbers before finishing, so that any voltage drops and the such show up in the numbers. I normally start my stress test, than about 5 min in reset my numbers. This helps give a clear picture of what's going on in the stress test.

Also, you want to run that prime95 for more than 20 min. What it does, is starts off going easier on your system, than increases in complexity. Because of that, you'll find that Prime95 tends to fail a certain points over others. I like going for a little over 2 hours myself.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> I run the prime95 blend small ffts test for about 20min and recorded temps/voltages throughout the process. PC didn't crash while being tested. Temperatures seemed fairly ok. These are the numbers I got moments before stopping the test. Some voltage values seem rather extreme and abnormal.
> 
> 
> 
> Here comes the odd part. The moment I pressed the "stop" button to terminate the test I got a power-off. For the first time I got immediate shutdowns for three consecutive times , when I tried to log onto windows. Left the pc alone for a while to cool off and now I'm back online posting!!! Therefore I think it's not a psu or graphics card problem, just like Roaches said.


I'm stumped. Think it's time to contact Gigabyte and be VERY CLEAR about everything you have tried, including the other people in this thread with same/similar problems. If it's not the PSU then my only guess is something wrong with the board itself.

Maybe add a little extra voltage for your memory, HWiNFO shows 1.488V, assuming it's 1.5V memory. Doubtful it will make any difference but you never know.


----------



## Papadope

I just got the 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 and I was wondering what is the best software to use to monitor the vrm temps? Also, what is the max temperature for the vrms where the motherboard will shut itself off for protection? I installed a FX-9590 and if I have the llc set to medium and it will supply the correct voltage but will just go to a black screen and become unresponsive after a few minutes of Prime. I touched the vrm heatsink and it is very hot, could burn your finger if you left your hand on it. Voltage is 1.5250v

Any help is appreciated.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> I just got the 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 and I was wondering what is the best software to use to monitor the vrm temps? Also, what is the max temperature for the vrms where the motherboard will shut itself off for protection? I installed a FX-9590 and if I have the llc set to medium and it will supply the correct voltage but will just go to a black screen and become unresponsive after a few minutes of Prime. I touched the vrm heatsink and it is very hot, could burn your finger if you left your hand on it. Voltage is 1.5250v
> 
> Any help is appreciated.


I'm not sure about hardware monitoring programs with VRM temps, perhaps the latest revisions of HWinfo, but as I said I'm not positive. As far as your system locking up, it's definitely too much heat but the problem is if the motherboard overheats, it won't always shut down... rather it's freezes and keeps everything running. I had the same issue any time I tried pushing past 4.5 with my 8120 and UD5... too much voltage necessary and it would lock up during benching and stress testing.

Even though it's after the fact for you now, I would never pair any revision of the UD3 with a 9590 considering the volume of people having overheating issues with just overclocking the 8120/50 and 8320/50. I'm afraid that's likely to just be too much juice pushing through that board. Ask the other UD3 owners around here about the lengths they've gone to in order to adequately cool their VRMs and MOSFETs with the FX81/83xx series. Not sure if you're interested in water cooling, but it's probably not a bad idea to think about a full custom loop with chipset blocks if you really want to run a 9590 on a UD3. Unfortunately, the EK- Gigabyte AMD universal kits are now EOL products and hard to find anywhere, and that's the only ones I knew of compatible with the GA-990FX-UDx boards.


----------



## Chargeit

Check this out.

OK, I had my gaming system set up to use the data drive for virtual memory, I wanted to see what happened if I just allowed the system to manage Virtual memory. So, I go in, and change it from my manual settings, to allow the system to manage.

I restart my computer, and none of my start up programs open. Now, I can't even so much as get into the options to change Virtual memory, without searching for it, since it seems like some things just don't work correctly anymore... The hell?

I really don't get it. I mean, I've messed with virtual memory for years, and I've never seen something like this happen.

*It has errors, I guess somethings corrupted

**I reinstalled windows, since I wanted to anyway. I'm going to to a reinstall of my laptop also, might as well. It has been a pain doing a fresh windows install on my gaming system, since I wasn't prepared for it. Normally, I'd have a nice list of everything I need to do, not this time. One cool thing I noticed, was that you can get a new windows activation key for only $35 if your old one is *Cough, cough*, damaged. Not that I'll need it, since it will use the default activation key, which isn't the same as the one on the bottom of the system, just saying.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> I just got the 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 and I was wondering what is the best software to use to monitor the vrm temps? Also, what is the max temperature for the vrms where the motherboard will shut itself off for protection? I installed a FX-9590 and if I have the llc set to medium and it will supply the correct voltage but will just go to a black screen and become unresponsive after a few minutes of Prime. I touched the vrm heatsink and it is very hot, could burn your finger if you left your hand on it. Voltage is 1.5250v
> 
> Any help is appreciated.


You want HWiNFO for VRM temps. Awesome program. It can also be used in conjunction with MSI AB/Rivatuner Statistics Server for an OSD of anything in HWiNFO.

Not sure at what temp it starts throttling but I would guess somewhere past 100C. VRM heatsink being extremely hot is well... normal. You'll have to monitor the temps to see if that's causing the black screen or if it's just not stable.


----------



## Roaches

HWinfo > HWmonitor

HWmonitor feels too simplified and somewhat bloated installation. I'd prefer HWinfo for able to identify more sensors on the motherboard and other hardware.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> I'm not sure about hardware monitoring programs with VRM temps, perhaps the latest revisions of HWinfo, but as I said I'm not positive. As far as your system locking up, it's definitely too much heat but the problem is if the motherboard overheats, it won't always shut down... rather it's freezes and keeps everything running. I had the same issue any time I tried pushing past 4.5 with my 8120 and UD5... too much voltage necessary and it would lock up during benching and stress testing.
> 
> Even though it's after the fact for you now, I would never pair any revision of the UD3 with a 9590 considering the volume of people having overheating issues with just overclocking the 8120/50 and 8320/50. I'm afraid that's likely to just be too much juice pushing through that board. Ask the other UD3 owners around here about the lengths they've gone to in order to adequately cool their VRMs and MOSFETs with the FX81/83xx series. Not sure if you're interested in water cooling, but it's probably not a bad idea to think about a full custom loop with chipset blocks if you really want to run a 9590 on a UD3. Unfortunately, the EK- Gigabyte AMD universal kits are now EOL products and hard to find anywhere, and that's the only ones I knew of compatible with the GA-990FX-UDx boards.


I did alot of research on the 990FXA-UD3 before I bought it. I knew to avoid the rev.3 for overclocking and I think the rev 4 will be perfect if I can cool the vrms alittle bit. With the FX-9590 at stock it is completely stable. The black screen only occurs with voltage set higher than stock with the llc set to medium. I haven't experienced a single blue screen or system lock up. I'll need to try cooling the vrm heat sink with some fans but as you could imagine the room is tight considering im using a NH-D14. I'm trying to avoid water as much as possible, at-least for now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You want HWiNFO for VRM temps. Awesome program. It can also be used in conjunction with MSI AB/Rivatuner Statistics Server for an OSD of anything in HWiNFO.
> 
> Not sure at what temp it starts throttling but I would guess somewhere past 100C. VRM heatsink being extremely hot is well... normal. You'll have to monitor the temps to see if that's causing the black screen or if it's just not stable.


Thanks for the info, I will try it once I return from my trip.

What I have noticed is it only happened when using *llc at medium* and having the voltage surpass 1.5125. Anything lower than having the llc set on medium and the motherboard is not able to supply enough voltage to the cpu under load. It will drop to 1.48-1.488. Here it what happens at different clocks with the llc set to auto and voltage drops under load.
Stock -> System is stable
4.8 -> 1 core gets error in prime, system stays on and working
4.9 -> 2-3 cores get error in prime, system stays on and working

Now with llc set to medium and voltage 1 click above 1.5125
The computer stops functioning and video cuts out. Hitting the power button or reset does nothing, have to flip the switch on the back of the psu and wait a few seconds before turning back on. It boots into the bios like nothing happened.

The reason I think it's the temps is because if I try it when the computer is cold it will get further into the Prime test. It will get onto worker 2 then it will cut to a black screen. Booting back up if I turn prime on again, it will almost cut to the black screen immediately. I think the vrm heat sink gets saturated with heat and it is no longer able to extract enough from the vrms. Core temp remains within spec the whole time.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> I did alot of research on the 990FXA-UD3 before I bought it. I knew to avoid the rev.3 for overclocking and I think the rev 4 will be perfect if I can cool the vrms alittle bit. With the FX-9590 at stock it is completely stable. The black screen only occurs with voltage set higher than stock with the llc set to medium. I haven't experienced a single blue screen or system lock up. I'll need to try cooling the vrm heat sink with some fans but as you could imagine the room is tight considering im using a NH-D14. I'm trying to avoid water as much as possible, at-least for now.
> Thanks for the info, I will try it once I return from my trip.
> 
> What I have noticed is it only happened when using *llc at medium* and having the voltage surpass 1.5125. Anything lower than having the llc set on medium and the motherboard is not able to supply enough voltage to the cpu under load. It will drop to 1.48-1.488. Here it what happens at different clocks with the llc set to auto and voltage drops under load.
> Stock -> System is stable
> 4.8 -> 1 core gets error in prime, system stays on and working
> 4.9 -> 2-3 cores get error in prime, system stays on and working
> 
> Now with llc set to medium and voltage 1 click above 1.5125
> The computer stops functioning and video cuts out. Hitting the power button or reset does nothing, have to flip the switch on the back of the psu and wait a few seconds before turning back on. It boots into the bios like nothing happened.
> 
> The reason I think it's the temps is because if I try it when the computer is cold it will get further into the Prime test. It will get onto worker 2 then it will cut to a black screen. Booting back up if I turn prime on again, it will almost cut to the black screen immediately. I think the vrm heat sink gets saturated with heat and it is no longer able to extract enough from the vrms. Core temp remains within spec the whole time.


interesting because I found the 1.5125 wall as well... (with Medium LLC)

I don't know if it is VRM temp TBH, I ran with a IR themo gun at these same settings and VRMs never get above 72c... It feels more like a amp draw limit...

... Interesting that someone else has stumbled across this... I gave up posting about this finiky board when I found something... but It's great that I now have someone to confirm what I had already written off as "oh, well... screw it"...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I did alot of research on the 990FXA-UD3 before I bought it. I knew to avoid the rev.3 for overclocking and I think the rev 4 will be perfect if I can cool the vrms alittle bit. With the FX-9590 at stock it is completely stable. The black screen only occurs with voltage set higher than stock with the llc set to medium. I haven't experienced a single blue screen or system lock up. I'll need to try cooling the vrm heat sink with some fans but as you could imagine the room is tight considering im using a NH-D14. I'm trying to avoid water as much as possible, at-least for now.
> Thanks for the info, I will try it once I return from my trip.
> 
> What I have noticed is it only happened when using *llc at medium* and having the voltage surpass 1.5125. Anything lower than having the llc set on medium and the motherboard is not able to supply enough voltage to the cpu under load. It will drop to 1.48-1.488. Here it what happens at different clocks with the llc set to auto and voltage drops under load.
> Stock -> System is stable
> 4.8 -> 1 core gets error in prime, system stays on and working
> 4.9 -> 2-3 cores get error in prime, system stays on and working
> 
> Now with llc set to medium and voltage 1 click above 1.5125
> The computer stops functioning and video cuts out. Hitting the power button or reset does nothing, have to flip the switch on the back of the psu and wait a few seconds before turning back on. It boots into the bios like nothing happened.
> 
> The reason I think it's the temps is because if I try it when the computer is cold it will get further into the Prime test. It will get onto worker 2 then it will cut to a black screen. Booting back up if I turn prime on again, it will almost cut to the black screen immediately. I think the vrm heat sink gets saturated with heat and it is no longer able to extract enough from the vrms. Core temp remains within spec the whole time.


What do you have for airflow at the heatsink? The difference between no/minimal airflow and direct airflow can be upwards of 20C on the mosfets.


----------



## Chargeit

I like HWMonitor because it is simple and gives me all the basic information I need, without a lot of junk that I don't.

Bloated? HWinfo ran like crap. I remember it taking excessive amounts of time to get readings. I just didn't like it.

HWMonitor has the most important information easily readable. As far as it having issues with AMD, I've yet to see any. I guess whatever floats your boat.

I can see HWinfo being much more useful if you're at extreme overclocks, but, I for instance only push 1.414V max. VRM overheating isn't an issue for me, luckily.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Check this out.
> 
> OK, I had my gaming system set up to use the data drive for virtual memory, I wanted to see what happened if I just allowed the system to manage Virtual memory. So, I go in, and change it from my manual settings, to allow the system to manage.
> 
> I restart my computer, and none of my start up programs open. Now, I can't even so much as get into the options to change Virtual memory, without searching for it, since it seems like some things just don't work correctly anymore... The hell?
> 
> I really don't get it. I mean, I've messed with virtual memory for years, and I've never seen something like this happen.
> 
> *It has errors, I guess somethings corrupted
> 
> **I reinstalled windows, since I wanted to anyway. I'm going to to a reinstall of my laptop also, might as well. It has been a pain doing a fresh windows install on my gaming system, since I wasn't prepared for it. Normally, I'd have a nice list of everything I need to do, not this time. One cool thing I noticed, was that you can get a new windows activation key for only $35 if your old one is *Cough, cough*, damaged. Not that I'll need it, since it will use the default activation key, which isn't the same as the one on the bottom of the system, just saying.


Yikes that's weird! But the windows virtual memory is whacked lol.
Ah too bad I didn't see this message earlier because I would have told you to check out a fresh install tweak guide for gamers it's truely amazing! The guy explains a lot of hacks in order to get a system as optimized as possible and he has a great Superfetch/Prefetch tool that we should run once a month in order to really take advantage of this!


----------



## M3TAl

Just FYI you can adjust how fast HWiNFO updates in ms. Believe the default is 2000ms. You can also remove as many sensor readings as you want.

HWiNFO really is the best. Minimum, maximum, and average temp and works with RSS OSD. Unmatched versatility.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Just FYI you can adjust how fast HWiNFO updates in ms. Believe the default is 2000ms. You can also remove as many sensor readings as you want.
> 
> HWiNFO really is the best. Minimum, maximum, and average temp and works with RSS OSD. Unmatched versatility.


All I know, is it ran like crap out of the box. Sure, it had tons of information, but, I didn't need most of that information, which makes it bloat if you ask me. Running it reminded me of being laden with spyware or something.

I mean, come'on...



**Not my readings*


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yikes that's weird! But the windows virtual memory is whacked lol.
> Ah too bad I didn't see this message earlier because I would have told you to check out a fresh install tweak guide for gamers it's truely amazing! The guy explains a lot of hacks in order to get a system as optimized as possible and he has a great Superfetch/Prefetch tool that we should run once a month in order to really take advantage of this!


It's all good. I've already got everything back up and running. I wanted to do a fresh install anyway, since I moved from AMD to Nvidia GPU.

It's crazy how everything was running fine, and than I do that, and all hell breaks loose. I guess I must of had corrupted data from a power outage or something. Honestly, I don't know.

I set up the os to manage virtual ram, restart,, and suddenly it won't run programs off of my SSD. I set it up to run check disk at the next start up, reboot, and it refused to boot into windows. So, I figured might as well do a fresh install, since most of my important data is on the HDD, and wouldn't be touched.

Since I was doing that, I also figured I might as well do the same with my laptop, for good measures.

Everything's fine now. If it gives me more issues, maybe somethings wrong with my SSD. You never know after damned ShadowPlay molested it a few weeks back. If that's the case, I'll replace it.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> interesting because I found the 1.5125 wall as well... (with Medium LLC)
> 
> I don't know if it is VRM temp TBH, I ran with a IR themo gun at these same settings and VRMs never get above 72c... *It feels more like a amp draw limit*...
> 
> ... Interesting that someone else has stumbled across this... I gave up posting about this finiky board when I found something... but It's great that I now have someone to confirm what I had already written off as "oh, well... screw it"...


I hope not







but it could be. It only happens under extreme load. I can run even higher voltage with llc at medium and game without a problem but if I run prime it will cut out. I really want to run 5.0GHZ stable which it appears this chip has no problem with but the motherboard does.

Here is something else that is interesting. Before installing the FX-9590 I had the 1100T installed. Here's the effect of llc on each processor.

1100T LLC
Extreme - Overvolts the processor but runs stable
Medium - Voltage is right on the money, stable
Auto - Voltage drops under load

FX-9590 LLC
Extreme - Computer will not even post, Black Screen, Fans run at max.
Medium - Voltage is right on the money, Computer cuts out under load, Black Screen, Fans run at max.
Auto - Voltage drops under load
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What do you have for airflow at the heatsink? The difference between no/minimal airflow and direct airflow can be upwards of 20C on the mosfets.


There is minimal airflow from the center 140mm fan on the Noctua NH-D14. Their is a 200mm exhaust fan at the top of the case and also a 120mm exhaust fan at the back of the case. Their is no direct airflow and it is hard to fit a additional fan. I tried squeezing in a 80mm lian-li case fan to blow air across the vrm's but the board cut out again right away. I'm not too confident in it's ability to cool the heat sinks though as static pressure is minimal and so is the airflow. Im thinking about moving my sound card a few slots down and putting a 120mm fan to blow upwards towards the vrms but that is why I want to monitor the vrm temp. It's going to be a process of elimination. I changed boards for this one so hopefully I wont need to change again.


----------



## M3TAl

Well once you get HWiNFO you should see something called PMBus VR with VR T1 & VR T2. Those are your mosfet temps. I'm curious if your board is shutting things down due to heat.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well once you get HWiNFO you should see something called PMBus VR with VR T1 & VR T2. Those are your mosfet temps. I'm curious if your board is shutting things down due to heat.


Thanks for this! I was wondering where I was going to see it in HWinfo. At the moment I only have access to a llano desktop remotely and I couldn't find the vrm temps on that. Not too many sensors on that board though, it's basically a budget itx. I'll check it out once I get home tonight.


----------



## savvalex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i love my aida64, but i still reccomend hwinfo over all others ( esp hwmonitor and coretemp as it has known issues with amd )
> 
> besides the known issues with those hwinfo is just over all a better program as it shows you not only EVERY tempand or other stat that is useful, current min max and average !
> 
> it sounds to me like you are downclocking, for some reason, i would start by disabling ALL powersaving and going from there,
> CnQ, APM, C1E, C6
> 
> also to note you may need to reinstall windows,
> 
> your psu you should ask shilka as it is very very important ! besides that i doubt it is a psu issue, if your vcore is dropping. then it is the VRMs doing it, i have never heard of a psu not giving less then 12v intermittently ( key word ), not saying it can not happen. but very very unlikely !
> 
> also upper right hand corner of this page "Rigbuilder" will help us help you, then google "overclock.net how to put rig in sig" and do that.


Disabling all powersaving did the trick!!! I'm so happy!!!

I've had no crashes for the last couple of days and I've been able to play all my favorite game.

I emailed gigabyte informing them for the issue with hopes of getting a better bios sometime in the near future.

Thank you and the all the other members (especially M3TAl, Chargeit) for their help. You rock


----------



## GroovyMotion

Interesting about the differences with the LLC settings and the variations of our boards. I set my LLC at high and between 4.3 and 4.5Ghz the voltage is extremely stable!
I am now running @ 242Mhz FSB with multi @ 18.5 and highest CPU temp 1h running FSX in very dense areas is 47C!









I still have to figure out a way to cool off the back part of the mobo and place a Cougar Vortex fan somewhere.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savvalex*
> 
> Disabling all powersaving did the trick!!! I'm so happy!!!
> 
> I've had no crashes for the last couple of days and I've been able to play all my favorite game.
> 
> I emailed gigabyte informing them for the issue with hopes of getting a better bios sometime in the near future.
> 
> Thank you and the all the other members (especially M3TAl, Chargeit) for their help. You rock


That's good, I'm happy you've got it worked out.

Make sure to mention to GB, that the only thing that allowed you to game without cashing was disabling "ALL" the power saving features.

I'm assuming that CnQ was your culprit, and the V-Drop was causing your system to crash. That's crazy, since CnQ just doesn't have the same affect on mine. I can game with CnQ enabled all day and not have a single issue. I still say that you should be able to game stable out of the box with default bios settings. You might get a better end experience with the proper ones disabled, but, most power saving features are designed to only take affect when you're not using your computer heavily... More or less.

Shoot, I even stress test with CnQ on, since I wanted to simulate what I'd be doing under normal usage. No V-drop, throttling, or crashes.

I could enable all power saving features, and still pass a stress test, or game without issues. Though, I would be multiplier throttling if I left on "APM", since that attempts to maintain the listed power consumption.

Anyway, it's cool that it's working.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well once you get HWiNFO you should see something called PMBus VR with VR T1 & VR T2. Those are your mosfet temps. I'm curious if your board is shutting things down due to heat.










Holy Cow! I'm almost positive it's heat. I just got home after being away for 3 days. I left the heat in my apartment set to 56°. I decided to leave it off until I tested the computer, giving it the best chance to withstand a prime test if heat is actually the problem. Long story short, with the ambient temps at 56° F, The VRM temp peaked at 113°C on test 2. Then dropped to 112°C on test 3. The computer did not shut down like it did the other day and I completed 4 test before stopping Prime. I wonder what the cutoff limit is, but I must be close to it. Idle VRM temp was 40°C with cool and quiet enabled. Edit: After leaving the system on for awhile idle temp seems to hover around 60°C. Funny thing is at idle, the FX-9590 is much more energy efficient than my old 1100T at the wall.



Also, I had nothing to do earlier at the airport so I called up Gigabyte Tech Support. The agent I spoke with confirmed their is a built in protection feature for vrm temperature. Also, he said their is no current limit that would trigger the board to shut itself off or enter a protection mode.

Now I just need to find a way to cool these vrm's! I'm going to try to squeeze a 120mm fan above my gpu blowing up towards the vrm's and exhaust fan but are aftermarket heat sinks any better than the stock one?

Edit:
Hmm I just tried prime again after installing a fan, and the computer shut off within 3 seconds. VRM Temp only hit 57°C, so it appears it's not temps but definitely something I should look out for either way. Perhaps it is RAM related, I noticed the motherboard is only supplying 1.63 volts when it is rated for 1.65


----------



## Caldeio

I went with an ASUS Sabertooth x87 and I'm going 4770k.

This rev 4.0 didn't inspire any confidence in me to get it, even for my replace meant board on my now backup pc.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy Cow! I'm almost positive it's heat. I just got home after being away for 3 days. I left the heat in my apartment set to 56°. I decided to leave it off until I tested the computer, giving it the best chance to withstand a prime test if heat is actually the problem. Long story short, with the ambient temps at 56° F, The VRM temp peaked at 113°C on test 2. Then dropped to 112°C on test 3. The computer did not shut down like it did the other day and I completed 4 test before stopping Prime. I wonder what the cutoff limit is, but I must be close to it. Idle VRM temp was 40°C with cool and quiet enabled. Edit: After leaving the system on for awhile idle temp seems to hover around 60°C. Funny thing is at idle, the FX-9590 is much more energy efficient than my old 1100T at the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I had nothing to do earlier at the airport so I called up Gigabyte Tech Support. The agent I spoke with confirmed their is a built in protection feature for vrm temperature. Also, he said their is no current limit that would trigger the board to shut itself off or enter a protection mode.
> 
> Now I just need to find a way to cool these vrm's! I'm going to try to squeeze a 120mm fan above my gpu blowing up towards the vrm's and exhaust fan but are aftermarket heat sinks any better than the stock one?
> 
> Edit:
> Hmm I just tried prime again after installing a fan, and the computer shut off within 3 seconds. VRM Temp only hit 57°C, so it appears it's not temps but definitely something I should look out for either way. Perhaps it is RAM related, I noticed the motherboard is only supplying 1.63 volts when it is rated for 1.65


Very odd. Typically RAM would cause a BSOD or hard freeze and not a complete shut off, at least that's always been my experience. Only thing that comes to mind is something tripping on the PSU. Do you have any other old PSU's to test?

You could even hook up two PSU's at the same time, Iv'e done this before. Had one PSU on the 8-pin EPS for CPU power, everything else was connected to another PSU. Just need a paper clip shoved into the green wire and any black wire. Yes, it's safe. People have been doing this for at least 10 years.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yeah, the only time I have ever had a complete loss of power was the PSU tripping. I would unplug all unnecessary drives and accessories and try stressing it again. Keep in mind as temps go up resistance goes up as well so you will have less power available which may explain why it was ok in the really cold room. I would just run the bare minimum, CPU/VRM cooling, main hard drive, and gpu. If you are worried about airflow in the case pull the side panel off and have box fan blow into it just while testing the PSU.


----------



## Chargeit

Ok, check it. The first picture is a heaven score before I added this 2nd monitor. Also, I had the power mode set to adaptive.



This 2nd one is current, with a 2nd monitor hooked up, and power set to preformance.



Notice I lost points, however, my min fps is better in the 2nd one, and my max fps is better in the first. I'm assuming this is normal. I just find it odd that the min went up, and max went down. The only difference beyond the 2nd monitor, is the power settings, but, I don't think it's that big of a deal, since it runs as the same speed (1045 MHz) with both settings.


----------



## M3TAl

I've had the minimum go up and down when running the test say 4 times in a row. Just happens sometimes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Yeah, the only time I have ever had a complete loss of power was the PSU tripping. I would unplug all unnecessary drives and accessories and try stressing it again. Keep in mind as temps go up resistance goes up as well so you will have less power available which may explain why it was ok in the really cold room. I would just run the bare minimum, CPU/VRM cooling, main hard drive, and gpu. If you are worried about airflow in the case pull the side panel off and have box fan blow into it just while testing the PSU.


Also you could run Heaven/Valley bench on the GPU and run 4-6 threads P95/IBT on the at the same time. That'll really draw some juice from a PSU.

I'm really impressed with my little 650W Rosewill PSU. Hasn't given any problems with a 1.3V 1200 MHz GPU and 1.53V 4.9-5 GHZ 8350.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I've seen it jump around more or less. So I'm assuming the general fps loss is just due to adding a 2nd monitor? That fps gain/loss has been consistent.

I just had a system crash, which is the reason I'm checking it. I was watching youtube, than my system froze, and there was buzzing from the speakers.

I just did a fresh OS install because of corrupted data on my SSD the other day. I'm kind of assuming that has to do with the crash, something driver wise I haven't settled yet.

I'll be honest, this is the first time I've had it crash like that. Also, the f'in thing has been running great lately, even before the corrupted data issues. That makes it twice as frustrating.

Ever since I had issues with ShadowPlay copying 3tb of data to my SSD, it seems like I've had problems. Yet system performance is great.

I'm currently going though my event log, and clearing up issues, but, before I had my current crash, there were no logs suggesting any problems.

I had a strange reading today, from HWMonitor. My NB had a temperature reading of 87c, which I've never seen before. The most it will usually hit, is maybe 50 - 52c when stress testing. Something like that. I didn't catch it while it hit that temp, and I'm not even sure that was a real reading.

Oh, and I've stressed my system without any issues since the reinstall. Not that the crash had anything to do with stressing, since I was running youtube. I think I'm going to let this sit until tomorrow.

And to top it off, the fact that I kicked a few back tonight doesn't help. The one time in months I decide to get drunk, and my system crashes... Isn't that the way.


----------



## M3TAl

What browser? Chrome was giving me all kinds of problems about a week ago. However they recently updated it and fixed the problems I had.

Side scrolling was broken, and I was getting constant checkered screen when watching Hulu. The entire screen would go into a multi colored checkered pattern. Would have to reset PC completely to get it back. Installed Firefox for first time in AGES and had 0 problems with Hulu.

Whatever the problem was it's fixed now with latest Chrome update.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What browser? Chrome was giving me all kinds of problems about a week ago. However they recently updated it and fixed the problems I had.
> 
> Side scrolling was broken, and I was getting constant checkered screen when watching Hulu. The entire screen would go into a multi colored checkered pattern. Would have to reset PC completely to get it back. Installed Firefox for first time in AGES and had 0 problems with Hulu.
> 
> Whatever the problem was it's fixed now with latest Chrome update.


Yea, Chrome.

OK, when I first got this mobo, I remember I was having crashes when playing this one game. If I remember correctly, I had to update some of the mobo drivers, and it fixed. Those crashes were blue screen though, this was blank screen, and speaker buzzing.

I did update a few of my drivers, though, I'll have to go over them again.

I did do a hour of prime95, and than 2 runs of heaven just to check cpu/gpu real quick. Those both passed fine.

Tomorrow, I'll do a better run through of drivers, and the event logs.

I'll tell you though, nothing like a good crash to stink up that fresh OS feel.

***I'm going to hit the sack for the night.


----------



## simsim44

Epic LOL
"I'll tell you though, nothing like a good crash to stink up that fresh OS feel."
Chargeit.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Epic LOL
> "I'll tell you though, nothing like a good crash to stink up that fresh OS feel."
> Chargeit.



















@Chargeit, me it's explorer.exe that crashes 2-3x per day but I am running a beta version of F-Secure which seems to be the culprit. My beta ends in 3 weeks then this POS is gone!
Another weird one, if I start FF once the system finished a startup it will close by itself after 30 seconds. But, I restart it right away and don't have a single issue after that!


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Very odd. Typically RAM would cause a BSOD or hard freeze and not a complete shut off, at least that's always been my experience. Only thing that comes to mind is something tripping on the PSU. Do you have any other old PSU's to test?
> 
> You could even hook up two PSU's at the same time, Iv'e done this before. Had one PSU on the 8-pin EPS for CPU power, everything else was connected to another PSU. Just need a paper clip shoved into the green wire and any black wire. Yes, it's safe. People have been doing this for at least 10 years.


It is not a complete shutoff, the computer will remain on only in the sense that the fans are still running. There is no display, mouse and keyboard are completely off, and the computer is completely unresponsive to any of the buttons. The only way to shut it off is by flipping the switch on the PSU.

So after a bunch of testing, I have eliminated a few possibilities.
1. It is not the Ram, increasing the voltage as well as lowering the speed has no effect on the problem.
2. It is not a motherboard bios error related to llc at medium, I have now been able to replicate the problem with stock voltage, as well as with llc on low and llc on auto.
3. It is not the vrm temperature

Unfortunately I don't have another Quality PSU to test atm, The OCZ PSU I had poped like a firecracker and I can no longer RMA it. Could this symptom be caused by the PSU not being able to supply enough power to the CPU? I would think the Corsair AX760 would be able to handle it unless it has a defect. I'm not sure how I should go about figuring out if the power supply is the culprit.


----------



## simsim44

How did you determine it is not ram , I mean did you swap it out.?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> It is not a complete shutoff, the computer will remain on only in the sense that the fans are still running. There is no display, mouse and keyboard are completely off, and the computer is completely unresponsive to any of the buttons. The only way to shut it off is by flipping the switch on the PSU.
> 
> So after a bunch of testing, I have eliminated a few possibilities.
> 1. It is not the Ram, increasing the voltage as well as lowering the speed has no effect on the problem.
> 2. It is not a motherboard bios error related to llc at medium, I have now been able to replicate the problem with stock voltage, as well as with llc on low and llc on auto.
> 3. It is not the vrm temperature
> 
> Unfortunately I don't have another Quality PSU to test atm, The OCZ PSU I had poped like a firecracker and I can no longer RMA it. Could this symptom be caused by the PSU not being able to supply enough power to the CPU? I would think the Corsair AX760 would be able to handle it unless it has a defect. I'm not sure how I should go about figuring out if the power supply is the culprit.


As i can see you are running in crossfire right?

If that's the case your PSU is simply not powerful enough to run your system.

With your setup i would highly recommend at least an 850 watt PSU so that you have plenty of head room to spare for overclocks.

If i overclock my CPU and GPU that is an 8350 and one GTX 660Ti i draw more than 400 watts through the wall, the highest i saw was almost 600 watts. I know that because i have plugged my PC cable in a watt meter.

At idle my system draws around 200 watts. So i would highly suggest to get an higher watt PSU from Seasonic or Corsair ( re branded Seasonic basically)


----------



## Mega Man

yea.... ummm no

it is quite possible to run it off of 750w

he probably has to keep a mild oc but it ran my 7970s +8350 without issue ( my x750 )

that said it does sound like his psu is toast


----------



## Papadope

Did some more testing, really doesn't look like it's the PSU.

If I reduce the Ram voltage to 1.5v even though it's supposed to be at 1.65v the computer runs through Prime95 even at 4.9GHZ. However, this is only at the stock voltage of 1.5125v. If I increase the voltage higher to 1.525-1.525 the computer cuts out again. Lowering the ram multiplier to 4.0 (800mhz) will allow me to run prime longer around those voltages and actually peak to 1.55v before the computer cuts out again. I also tried overclocking the NB Core and reducing the NB Frequency as this is the part of the cpu that is tied to the ram. It had no effect what so ever.

Somehow, the cpu voltage limit is tied to the ram speed and ram voltage. I removed all ram and tested 2 at a time and it did not make any difference. Also, during a prime test at 4.9GHZ at 1.5125v I saw a peak of 420watts being used at the wall. Folding on both of my video cards consumes around 500 watts so if I were 2 run both GPU's and the FX-9590 at the same time I could definitely run into some power issues if they are all being used at 100%. With this testing i am only using the cpu in prime and the gpu's are idle. The machine is actually idling at 65watts.

This board just has me confused, It seems as though it just cant handle the voltage even though their are people out there that have cpu's running at higher voltage than 1.5125 on UD3 motherboards. It is definitely related to power draw and the number of cores on the FX-9590 because if I run prime at the desired voltage of 1.5375 with only 4 cores testing it runs fine without any problems but I don't get why the ram speed/voltage has an affect here.

Are there known RAM issues or incompatibilities with these boards?


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like ocp of some kind to me


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like ocp of some kind to me


ocp?


----------



## Caldeio

Ok would this board be good enough for a overclock at 1.3v /3.0ghz on a 1045t and mining with one 270x/280x and later a second?

I'd like to at least get the performance my 50 dollars ECS board gets.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like ocp of some kind to me
> 
> 
> 
> ocp?
Click to expand...

over current protection

basically when it pulls to much amps it either throttles or shuts off.

iirc in their bios giga put into place this for their ud3s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caldeio*
> 
> Ok would this board be good enough for a overclock at 1.3v /3.0ghz on a 1045t and mining with one 270x/280x and later a second?
> 
> I'd like to at least get the performance my 50 dollars ECS board gets.


which board ?


----------



## Caldeio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> which board ?


UD3 Rev 4.0? The Black colored pcb


----------



## Chargeit

I had another crash about 30 min ago.

My computer was sitting there, and suddenly the screens went blank. My computer continued to run, as if still on, but, it was it was unresponsive. I had just used it about 10 min before, so, it wasn't attempting to sleep, or turning off the monitor. I have it set up to run a screen saver after 30 min, shut off the monitor after 1 hour, and sleep after 4 hours.

Now, a few things. First, unlike last night, I wasn't doing anything with it this time, also there was no sounds from the speakers, since I wasn't watching a video this time.

Second, I pretty sure that it happened around the same time. I'll have to go over my event logs better, but, I write down the times I start a stress test, and, I started this one about the same time I did last night.

Today, like last night, I messed around with things before starting my stress test.

Both times it has been without stressing my system (I don't consider youtube stressing), and both times around the same time.

I'm giving it a go on prime95, to see if I can cause it to shut off. So far it's running fine.

I was going to do a lot of this today, but, I wanted to sit on it, and see if it did it again. I've also been using the system all day with no trouble. I played "Civ 5" for about 2 or 3 hours, "7 days to die" for 1 or 2 hours, "Left 4 Dead 2" 30 min, and about 1 hour of "MineCraft"







. So, I've gamed on it a good 5 hours today with no issues.

It has to be something scheduled, since it seems to of happened both times at the same time. I hadn't really noticed this until I went to write down my start time for this stress test, which is doing fine. I'm not not sure *** would cause a crash like that.


----------



## Chargeit

Check it out. This is after over a hour of stress testing, "Small". I'm still running the test.



A few things I've noticed. First, my +12V seems lowish at 11.880, and, my mobo VRM are not shown as a sensor.

What is Vin5?

*I ran using this program to get a VRM reading, but realized it isn't even showing up.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Check it out. This is after over a hour of stress testing, "Small". I'm still running the test.
> 
> 
> 
> A few things I've noticed. First, my +12V seems lowish at 11.880, and, my mobo VRM are not shown as a sensor.
> 
> What is Vin5?
> 
> *I ran using this program to get a VRM reading, but realized it isn't even showing up.


you need to get a multi meter i have seen giga boards say it is 10.xxv in the 12v rail.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you need to get a multi meter i have seen giga boards say it is 10.xxv in the 12v rail.


I'll look into it.

***I ran 45 min of Heaven, just letting run. Nothing.
I went though event logs, nothing worth messing with.
There are no tasks scheduled that should be causing it, everything comes up as ran successful.
All the drivers seem to be in order.
I'm currently running Memetest86, though I doubt that will fail.







I hope it does to be honest... I need a good excuse to buy 16 gb of 1866 ram.

I'm really curious to see if it does it again tomorrow night around the same time (11:30 - 12). Speaking of time, it's freaking 5 am... I JUST WANT MY DAMNED SYSTEM TO FAIL SOMETHING!!!









Damn I hope it's ram. I wants me some new ram.


----------



## simsim44

Good Morning Grargeit,
Just buy it. if it is not the ram you then you have something to build from on your next new rig. then again that's how I get into trouble. lol


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'll look into it.
> 
> ***I ran 45 min of Heaven, just letting run. Nothing.
> I went though event logs, nothing worth messing with.
> There are no tasks scheduled that should be causing it, everything comes up as ran successful.
> All the drivers seem to be in order.
> I'm currently running Memetest86, though I doubt that will fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it does to be honest... I need a good excuse to buy 16 gb of 1866 ram.
> 
> I'm really curious to see if it does it again tomorrow night around the same time (11:30 - 12). Speaking of time, it's freaking 5 am... I JUST WANT MY DAMNED SYSTEM TO FAIL SOMETHING!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn I hope it's ram. I wants me some new ram.


This sucks but if it's ram then I guess it's not expensive! How old is your ram again?
When I bought my ram I thought it was a pretty good one but it's just 1600


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'll look into it.
> 
> ***I ran 45 min of Heaven, just letting run. Nothing.
> I went though event logs, nothing worth messing with.
> There are no tasks scheduled that should be causing it, everything comes up as ran successful.
> All the drivers seem to be in order.
> I'm currently running Memetest86, though I doubt that will fail.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope it does to be honest... I need a good excuse to buy 16 gb of 1866 ram.
> 
> I'm really curious to see if it does it again tomorrow night around the same time (11:30 - 12). Speaking of time, it's freaking 5 am... I JUST WANT MY DAMNED SYSTEM TO FAIL SOMETHING!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn I hope it's ram. I wants me some new ram.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This sucks but if it's ram then I guess it's not expensive! How old is your ram again?
> When I bought my ram I thought it was a pretty good one but it's just 1600
Click to expand...

you have not seen ram prices now a days have you !


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you have not seen ram prices now a days have you !


Seriously, it's restupid how much they are bleeding us for ram nowadays...


----------



## Chargeit

My Ram passed running memetest86 all night with flying colors. 10 tests passed (The program had even stopped running more tests).

Yea, ram prices are freaking crazy right now. Most of the time, 8gb DDR3 @ 1600 is going to run you 70+. I caught the ram I have on sale for 54.99. I think it's 70 - 75 right now.

$77

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313345

*1600's fine. I want 16 gb 1866 just to have it mainly. Had my ram been bad, this would of just make moving to that ram much, much, much easier for me.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> My Ram passed running memetest86 all night with flying colors. 10 tests passed (The program had even stopped running more tests).
> 
> Yea, ram prices are freaking crazy right now. Most of the time, 8gb DDR3 @ 1600 is going to run you 70+. I caught the ram I have on sale for 54.99. I think it's 70 - 75 right now.
> 
> $77
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313345
> 
> *1600's fine. I want 16 gb 1866 just to have it mainly. Had my ram been bad, this would of just make moving to that ram much, much, much easier for me.


gonna be in china gonna try and score some of the multitude of sammies out ! come back and profit !


----------



## Recursion

R.I.P. Gigabyte! My 990FXA UD3 rev.3.0 died in a big bang and white flash. All the electricity in my house came to an end and it was smelling cooked metal and plastic. Never again Gigabyte. Bye Bye this thread!?


----------



## GroovyMotion

I don't know I paid 83 for my 8Gb Ripjaw 1600 it's now 79. Bought it a month and hald ago


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> I don't know I paid 83 for my 8Gb Ripjaw 1600 it's now 79. Bought it a month and hald ago


Prices are slowly coming back down, you also have to consider sales... but I bought my 4x4gb kit of Ripjaws X 1600 in April of '12 for $90, and it's now $165, both prices from the egg. I'd rather see 2012 prices again lol.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> R.I.P. Gigabyte! My 990FXA UD3 rev.3.0 died in a big bang and white flash. All the electricity in my house came to an end and it was smelling cooked metal and plastic. Never again Gigabyte. Bye Bye this thread!?


I'm guessing a VRM blew. Have any images to share the moment?

Either way this scares on getting a UD3 Rev.4.0 if it still suffers from VRM house fires.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpacemanSpliff*
> 
> Prices are slowly coming back down, you also have to consider sales... but I bought my 4x4gb kit of Ripjaws X 1600 in April of '12 for $90, and it's now $165, both prices from the egg. I'd rather see 2012 prices again lol.


Yikes! That sux! But yeah, RAM prices vary a lot it's like gas lol. MAybey they know we all need RAM and it's probably the most part that is upgraded over a pc life


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> R.I.P. Gigabyte! My 990FXA UD3 rev.3.0 died in a big bang and white flash. All the electricity in my house came to an end and it was smelling cooked metal and plastic. Never again Gigabyte. Bye Bye this thread!?


Sorry for your loss, I have had my fill with the UD-7, I ordered an Asus.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> R.I.P. Gigabyte! My 990FXA UD3 rev.3.0 died in a big bang and white flash. All the electricity in my house came to an end and it was smelling cooked metal and plastic. Never again Gigabyte. Bye Bye this thread!?










That sux big time! How old was the board and was it OC by a great margin?


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yikes! That sux! But yeah, RAM prices vary a lot it's like gas lol. MAybey they know we all need RAM and it's probably the most part that is upgraded over a pc life


Indeed, lol. I'm wanting to upgrade to a 2133 or 2400 set in my newly refreshed rig. In fact I feel a little guilty today lurking in here when I just got my i5-4670K and Asus Max VI Hero up and running... Although, I did pass my UD5 and 8120 on to my dad so I'll still peruse through here when he has issues and questions.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> My Ram passed running memetest86 all night with flying colors. 10 tests passed (The program had even stopped running more tests).
> 
> Yea, ram prices are freaking crazy right now. Most of the time, 8gb DDR3 @ 1600 is going to run you 70+. I caught the ram I have on sale for 54.99. I think it's 70 - 75 right now.
> 
> $77
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313345
> 
> *1600's fine. I want 16 gb 1866 just to have it mainly. Had my ram been bad, this would of just make moving to that ram much, much, much easier for me.


I see...was not aware hat ram prices were through the roof, last time I bought RAM before this new rig was 3 years ago lol
So you still don't know what the hell is going on with your system then eh?
Man it's insane having a 6 years old laptop compared to a new rig even if it's a fresh install on the laptop it takes ages to just finish to boot and load ff lol


----------



## Chargeit

I know that my system passes any test I throw at it.

I know that I've been playing this "7 Days to Die" game for the last 5 hours.

I know that both times it crashed, it was more or less idle. The first time I was watching youtube, but, some things would consider that idle.

I know that my SSD was corrupted to hell the other day.

I have my suspicions that it has something to do with even my SSD, or HDD. I disabled both back up, and system restore today, which I normally do anyway. I just hadn't after the install. It hasn't crashed yet today, but, I've been using it. It seems like something that happens at idle.

Maybe it does have to do with backing up, or setting a restore point, or, it could be something to do with trim.

To be honest, I'm just going to have to ride it out, and see if I end up with any other symptoms. For now, it's all guessing, but, since I can't get my system to fail anything, it's hard to pin down.


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> R.I.P. Gigabyte! My 990FXA UD3 rev.3.0 died in a big bang and white flash. All the electricity in my house came to an end and it was smelling cooked metal and plastic. Never again Gigabyte. Bye Bye this thread!?


That's a bummer man, although I'm surprised it's held out as long as it had... but at least it had the decency to go out the same way it lived... a flaming piece of crap. I had enough of my volt dropping UD5 and my slowly becoming antiquated 8120, so I passed them on to my dad and just got a 4670K and a Max VI Hero... I also hit the "Screw Gigabyte!" point but for what my dad does, he'll not need overclocking and he'll get another couple years of life out of them... during which I'll get to be his go between if he ever has issues and still lurk my way around here.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Yeah I never used system restore, I prefer fresh install when something bad happens. I had so many restore point fail on me that I disable it now.
Maybe SSD with windows OS is not that great, *if* this is what caused your issue!
All this talk about Gb mobo's failing and catching fire is scaring me though lol...I can't afford replacing any part at the moment!


----------



## SpacemanSpliff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah I never used system restore, I prefer fresh install when something bad happens. I had so many restore point fail on me that I disable it now.
> Maybe SSD with windows OS is not that great, *if* this is what caused your issue!
> All this talk about Gb mobo's failing and catching fire is scaring me though lol...I can't afford replacing any part at the moment!


UD5s aren't really known for going pop though... that's almost exclusive to the UD3s. I'd run anywhere from 3.6 @ stock VCore to 4.4 @ 1.4575 VCore on my 8120/UD5 with an H80 and never had a problem with the VRMS getting too hot. If I had better cooling and a board with less voltage droop, I could probably have hit 4.7+ easily enough with that 8120. It's a decent chip, and the UD5s are decent boards aside from the occasional finicky streak about AHCI mode and the well known voltage droop, but I needed to move on cause it just wasn't doing it for me anymore, lol. You shouldn't have to worry about your board.


----------



## Chargeit

The damned thing crashed while I was taking a shower... The hell.

It has to have something to do with the SSD.

I think that having ShadowPlay use it like $5 you know what, over a few days might of been too much for it.

I mean, what else would cause it to kill while idle... I have nothing else set to run. It also wasn't long enough to shut anything off.

*If it is the SSD, I'm going for the pro this time, and, I'll be sending it in for a replacement. I could use a spare 120gb ssd.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah I never used system restore, I prefer fresh install when something bad happens. I had so many restore point fail on me that I disable it now.
> Maybe SSD with windows OS is not that great, *if* this is what caused your issue!
> All this talk about Gb mobo's failing and catching fire is scaring me though lol...I can't afford replacing any part at the moment!


Nah, most people use their SSD as a OS drive.

It ran fine for months, but, maybe it was because of the issue I had with ShadowPlay. It might of been too much writing for it in such a short time.

I'm not sure it is the SSD. I mean, I'd think there would be more than just that if it was the problem. Well, I did have the corrupt files, when I attempted to enable page file on it. Still, I hate to go though the trouble of replacing it, just to find out that's not the issue. I mean, since it's OS, I'll have to fully reinstall windows... Again.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Check it out. This is after over a hour of stress testing, "Small". I'm still running the test.
> 
> 
> 
> A few things I've noticed. First, my +12V seems lowish at 11.880, and, my mobo VRM are not shown as a sensor.
> 
> What is Vin5?
> 
> *I ran using this program to get a VRM reading, but realized it isn't even showing up.


I have the latest HWinfo64 how do you get the VRM readings to show ?
My board is a ver 1.1


----------



## GroovyMotion

@SpacemanSpliff ah ok that's cool! Well, my UD5 rev.3 has been remarkable so far but I just OC for about 1-2h per day when I run my game.
My only bummer is the lack of 64-bit linux drivers, this board refuses to work and also the USB2 ports not working with my external drive!









@Chargeit this blows man! If it kills @idle then it's a little bit more worrysome.
I find SSD's a tad pricey but I set an alert on newegg for both the EVO and the Pro 256/250Gb version.
Yeah I know some run SSD's across their whole system but I think I will stick with the WD Black for a while and get the SSD for just FSX.
About your shadowPlay this makes me save my money and buy the dedicated capture board I mentioned a few days ago.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> I have the latest HWinfo64 how do you get the VRM readings to show ?
> My board is a ver 1.1


Only Rev 4.0 has mosfet sensors. The only way for us 1.1 people to get an idea of temps is use a thermal sensor taped to the back of the board where the mosfets sit.

Mine usually hovers around 55-60C, depending on ambient, while gaming at 4.95 GHz. Got a waterblock on them though.


----------



## ebduncan

Did some updating to my rig this past week.

Here's a photo


----------



## Chargeit

Oh, that sucks. I didn't realize it was only 4.0. I thought HWMonitor just didn't show them.

Well, I left it on last night, after that one crash, and it ran fine all night. It did go into sleep mode after 4 hours. I really wish I had remembered to shut that off.

My point being, it is something that is happening once a night when idle.

I just can't tell what it is. I don't see anything that's happening before it's doing what it's doing.

The fact that it didn't kill after the one crash, and that the only times is has crashed are left idle after 11:30, once a day, really points towards something software. I just have no damned clue what it is.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Did some updating to my rig this past week.
> 
> Here's a photo


Damn that is some serious water cooling! Must cost a fortune!
One question, how do you plug the other end of the systems, I see they "stick" to specific areas such as GPU/RAM/mosfet


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Oh, that sucks. I didn't realize it was only 4.0. I thought HWMonitor just didn't show them.
> 
> Well, I left it on last night, after that one crash, and it ran fine all night. It did go into sleep mode after 4 hours. I really wish I had remembered to shut that off.
> 
> My point being, it is something that is happening once a night when idle.
> 
> I just can't tell what it is. I don't see anything that's happening before it's doing what it's doing.
> 
> The fact that it didn't kill after the one crash, and that the only times is has crashed are left idle after 11:30, once a day, really points towards something software. I just have no damned clue what it is.


just the event viewer? might give you a bit more information about the problem.

maybe power surges/brown out?
Quote:


> Damn that is some serious water cooling! Must cost a fortune!
> One question, how do you plug the other end of the systems, I see they "stick" to specific areas such as GPU/RAM/mosfet


all the wiring is routed behind the motherboard, getting to some areas after everything is installed is hard but doable.


----------



## Chargeit

Well, it finally did it while gaming.

I was testing out planet side 2, and it suddenly acted like it reset.

It basically kills, but, all the fans stay on.

It can be reset right away.

Right now, I'm running Prime95 and Heaven at the same time to see if I can get it to crash.

I think if it is the PSU, than this should do it. If something is overheating, than this should do it also. I don't think anything is overheating, since all my readings are fine, and there is no delay in restarting.

I'm not sure about the PSU, since I'd think running Prime95 and heaven at the same time would be a quick way to cause it to crash. It's 10 min into running both Prime95 and heaven. I'm going to let it run for about a hour maybe.

*My CPU is starting to heat up running both prime and heaven. It's already at 59 - 61c. If I were just running Prime95, the CPU would top out at maybe 55c.

*I crashed it running prime95 / heaven.


----------



## M3TAl

Guess it's time to either bump up the voltage or reduce the clock. Is your H100i intake or exhaust? If it's intake then GPU/case temp shouldn't really have an affect on CPU temps. I always run intake with an AIO for the best possible CPU temp.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Guess it's time to either bump up the voltage or reduce the clock. Is your H100i intake or exhaust? If it's intake then GPU/case temp shouldn't really have an affect on CPU temps. I always run intake with an AIO for the best possible CPU temp.


It's exhaust.

It doesn't fail any of the tests alone.

I can run prime95 for hours, or, heaven. But, just now running both my system crashed.

Temps aren't a problem normally. It was just when stress testing with both Prime95, and Heaven.

My issue is my computer has been freezing when idle. (it just did it while gaming for the first time, nothing was stressed though)

Check this out. It is from a hour and 20 min of prime95 "small".



When gaming my CPU rarely gets to 50c. (normally 44 - 48c depending on the game)

*I run the GPU stock, though it does oc itself, up to 1045 from 888, on 0.900V.

*I've been running with my current OC settings for weeks now. I don't see how these issues would suddenly manifest in the last 3 days.

I mean, would I be able to pass prime95 fine multiple times, yet still be unstable like this. Do you think it's dropping to much voltage? I mean, I'm pretty sure with at least one of my idle crashes, I was in high performance mode. I just don't see how it could go from being perfectly stable, to crashing like this. Also, with how well my system has been preforming, I feel like the OC is currently at a sweet spot (gaming is very smooth with the current OC).

I'll bump the voltage up another notch, and see if the problem persists. I just don't get how it can seem stable for weeks, and than start having all these issues.


----------



## Chargeit

It crashed after about 10 min.

Ok, I'm now about 95% that the issue is the PSU, since it crashed when cool, and with increased voltage.

Now I need to figure out which one I'm going to get. I want 850W, gold - plat.

*SeaSonic X-850*

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102

Maybe this one?


----------



## MadGoat

chipset heatsink?

if the northbride trips out it will black screen in a "stuck reset" everytime...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> chipset heatsink?
> 
> if the northbride trips out it will black screen in a "stuck reset" everytime...


My northbridge usually stays 50c or under.

Right now at idle, it's 27c. If it were the heatsink, wouldn't it have a much higher reading?

*My northbridge maxed out at 49c when doing the small prime95 run that I posted above. That should be safe right.


----------



## M3TAl

The actual NB core is good to something like 110-120C.

Now maybe rev 3.0 is different but on 1.1 there is no NB sensor. I've tested this a million times. Adding a block to the NB had no affect on any tmpin sensors. Tmpin1 and 2 are both based off CPU temp for both my 1.1 boards.


----------



## MadGoat

well looking at your voltages, the 12v rail (if being monitored correctly) is too low... and will cause higher amperage if voltage were to drop lower... which would trigger OCP.

The ram voltage is a little low... anything below 1.5v is generally "too low" for AMD I've found... 1.55v is the minimum I will run.

If the system died that quick after bumping the CPU vcore up, It might be TOO much voltage... try going lower... and bring the CPU NB volt up to ~1.3...

see where she's at...


----------



## Chargeit

On HWiNFO64, it auto named it Northbridge, which is why I'm assuming that is the reading.

I'd like to know what this reading is, since it seems to not be a stable voltage.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> well looking at your voltages, the 12v rail (if being monitored correctly) is too low... and will cause higher amperage if voltage were to drop lower... which would trigger OCP.
> 
> The ram voltage is a little low... anything below 1.5v is generally "too low" for AMD I've found... 1.55v is the minimum I will run.
> 
> If the system died that quick after bumping the CPU vcore up, It might be TOO much voltage... try going lower... and bring the CPU NB volt up to ~1.3...
> 
> see where she's at...


I'll check it out. However, I was only at *1.44 this time. I also didn't manually set my ram voltage. I just set that up for profile, and let the system handle it.

*I had been running the CPU at 1.416v

**I just dropped the voltage some, and manually set my ram to 1.5v

***My ram still reads at 1.476v, even after manually setting it to 1.5v.

****Just realized the part about upping NB voltage. I'll have to go back and do that.









*If the system died that quick after bumping the CPU vcore up, It might be TOO much voltage...*

I've gotten it stable before at higher voltage. So, I know the CPU can take more than I've been using.

*****I'm currently stress testing with the suggested adjustments.


----------



## MadGoat

now there will be some vdrop in ram voltage, 1.5v in bios will yield around 1.47v ... you might need to pick the voltage up to ~1.525 to net close to 1.5v true voltage...

Added: now as I'm looking at your ram specs I'm noticing it's rated @ 1.5v stock... I would probably over volt that a bit to ensure proper voltage anyway .015 - .025 v should do it as long as your not pushing tighter timings than it's rated.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> On HWiNFO64, it auto named it Northbridge, which is why I'm assuming that is the reading.
> 
> I'd like to know what this reading is, since it seems to not be a stable voltage.


Mine says that too, though I don't believe it and never will due to all the testing I've done. Even some Gigabyte employees have said it's NB... I don't think they know what they're talking about unless it's the engineers that designed the board.

It's normal for the board to give lower ram voltage than what's set. Both my UD3 do it, pretty much every UD3 I've seen on here does it. Weather it is actually that low or the board/program reports it wrong I don't know. I always give it a little extra voltage. Say for 1.5V I'd set 1.52 or something. DDR3 is good to at least 1.65V even if the stick is rated for 1.3V. Some of the 1.3V sticks are the same IC as 1.5V sticks, they just lower the speed and raise the timings.


----------



## Chargeit

Ok, I'll go back and add a little more voltage to the ram.

Yea, it's rated for 1.5v.

I made the ram voltage adjustments. Now manually set to 1.525v. (The ram reads 1.5v now)

*I've manually set the ram voltage to 1.5 before, but, since it still gave me the same reading of 1.47v, I figured it just read low.

**Lets say it can get stable with some tweaks. How is it that it ran stable for so long without making these adjustments, and than suddenly it starts doing this?

***Oh, there are a few things I've been doing differently. I stopped allowing it to park cores (Though I usually had them unparked though a program), I've been running a lot in high performance mode, and also I've set my GPU up to not lower it's core to reduce power. I started doing this awhile before I started have the issues though.

A core failed, I'm going to go back to the power I had been using, leaving all the other adjustments in place.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Ok, I'll go back and add a little more voltage to the ram.
> 
> A core failed, I'm going to go back to the power I had been using, leaving all the other adjustments in place.


a core failure is good at this point... meaning your stable enough to find a core failure without tripping...

Bump vcore one notch and make sure you have your IMC bumped as well. ~1.225 if running 2200 will help with a CPU OC.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> a core failure is good at this point... meaning your stable enough to find a core failure without tripping...
> 
> Bump vcore one notch and make sure you have your IMC bumped as well. ~1.225 if running 2200 will help with a CPU OC.


OK, I'll check that out.

What I did was just bump my Vcore back up. I added 0.025v.

IMC = HT Link Voltage?


----------



## M3TAl

IMC (Internal Memory Controller) = CPU-NB. Handles communication with memory. Sometimes adding voltage to it can help even with stock 2200 MHz. When you get really high CPU clocks memory bandwidth increases and stresses the IMC more.


----------



## Chargeit

OK, so NB voltage right? Base of 1.100V.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> OK, so NB voltage right? Base of 1.100V.


nono, that is the chipset NB...

your looking for CPU/NB... base voltage of 1.875v



It's called NB core in my bios... (see above) as apposed to the "NB Voltage" that is stock 1.1v


----------



## Chargeit

OK, so, set "NB Core", to 1.225 correct?


----------



## M3TAl

They really don't give any explanation in the manual for these voltages. There's NB Core and NB Voltage... Nice naming scheme there Gigabyte.









I'm going to assume the CPU-NB is NB core because it's directly after the CPU Vcore setting and it gives 1.1V for NB Voltage (the stock voltage for CPU-NB is 1.2 something, don't remember the exact number).

Edit: Does stock CPU-NB voltage vary by chip just like it does for CPU VID? Pretty sure the stock for my chip is like 1.21V or so.


----------



## Chargeit

OK, let me reset this.

I've set my CPU Vcore to +0.075, which is what I was at.

I've set my Dram Voltage to 1.525.

Now, as far as the rest, you're using names which aren't reflected in my Bios.

I've got this...

*CPU Vcore* +0.075

*NB Core* Auto

*DRAM Voltage* 1.525

*DRAM Termination* AUTO (blacked out, can't alter)

*HT Link Voltage* Auto

*NB/PCIe/PLL voltage* Auto

*CPU PLL Voltage* Auto

*NB voltage* Auto

*Vcore LLC* High


----------



## M3TAl

NB Core ^^


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, my NB core won't set that high.

It maxes at +0.775,

He said to set it to 1.225

*Ah, I forgot... I can't manually set the number. My Vcore, and NB core work off of adding or subtracting from the base.. Ok, so, I think I want to add +0.050, since my base NB core is 1.188v

*Nvm... OK, I'm going to go read up on some of this. I hadn't looked into it, since I had oc'ed fine before without the adjustments. My settings work differently than yours, and I'm not just randomly changing things hoping to get it correct.








Time to do some reading.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> They really don't give any explanation in the manual for these voltages. There's NB Core and NB Voltage... Nice naming scheme there Gigabyte.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to assume the CPU-NB is NB core because it's directly after the CPU Vcore setting and it gives 1.1V for NB Voltage (the stock voltage for CPU-NB is 1.2 something, don't remember the exact number).
> 
> Edit: Does stock CPU-NB voltage vary by chip just like it does for CPU VID? Pretty sure the stock for my chip is like 1.21V or so.


I fairly certain 8320 and 8350's are NB CORE VID @ 1.875.

9370 & 9590 I do believe have higher volatges by default as they use a higher NB clock...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> OK, so, set "NB Core", to 1.225 correct?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> OK, so, set "NB Core", to 1.225 correct?


that is correct...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I fairly certain 8320 and 8350's are NB CORE VID @ 1.875.
> 
> 9370 & 9590 I do believe have higher volatges by default as they use a higher NB clock...
> 
> that is correct...


My NB VID reads as 1.188 base. Making any adjustments to my NB core in bios has no affect on this number in HWiNFO. I don't see anything that has a reading of 1.875.

The only thing in my bios that has a reading close to that is "NB/PCIe/PLL" that has a base of 1.800.

NB core in my bios, doesn't give me a base number.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> My NB VID reads as 1.188 base. Making any adjustments to my NB core in bios has no affect on this number in HWiNFO. I don't see anything that has a reading of 1.875.
> 
> The only thing in my bios that has a reading close to that is "NB/PCIe/PLL" that has a base of 1.800.
> 
> NB core in my bios, doesn't give me a base number.


It is NB Core trust me... and changing this will not reflect in the NB VID because that is the built in (default) value... it doesn't change... but the voltage will...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> It is NB Core trust me... and changing this will not reflect in the NB VID because that is the built in (default) value... it doesn't change... but the voltage will...


OK, I've got you. But, the issue is, I don't know what the base value is you see, it doesn't tell me in the bios. I have to add, or subtract from a base that I don't know. If I just randomly add, or subtract from it, I could be going into dangerous levels without realizing it.

So, my main question is, how can I find out what my base NB core is, so that I know what I need to add to it to get to 1.225?

I mean, do you see the difficulty there? You're suggesting that I adjust my "NB core" to 1.225, yet, I can't. I can only add to, or subtract from the base. What am I looking for, in Hwinfo, that would tell me my base NB core?

The way the bios handles this is annoying.


----------



## M3TAl

Wow it doesn't give you any base value? Gigabyte come on...







The old school BIOS for rev 1.1 gives base values and even tells you when you're getting in the "danger zone" adding voltage. The + values turn red instead of the usual white.

HWiNFO says 1.188 VID for mine too, could of swore BIOS said like 1.21V. I'm going to go check in BIOS right now.

Edit: Never mind, just remembered I have pics of my BIOS I sent my friend 1-2 months ago. So the stock is indeed 1.1875V. 1.2625V - 0.075V


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> OK, I've got you. But, the issue is, I don't know what the base value is you see, it doesn't tell me in the bios. I have to add, or subtract from a base that I don't know. If I just randomly add, or subtract from it, I could be going into dangerous levels without realizing it.
> 
> So, my main question is, how can I find out what my base NB core is, so that I know what I need to add to it to get to 1.225?
> 
> I mean, do you see the difficulty there? You're suggesting that I adjust my "NB core" to 1.225, yet, I can't. I can only add to, or subtract from the base. What am I looking for, in Hwinfo, that would tell me my base NB core?
> 
> The way the bios handles this is annoying.


I agree that the way the bios handles this is annoying... But I'll help ya...

Take a look at my setup right now:



Set the NB core option to "normal", this will open up a new option just below .... "Dynamic NB Core"

This is what you use for your offset. The offset starts from 1.1875. So: Goal of 1.225 - 1.1875 = 0.0375v offset.

Does that help? Use my picture of my bios as a guide...


----------



## Chargeit

Setting it to normal doesn't change anything.

Thanks, yea, I just needed to know what the base was. So, if the base is 1.1875, and I can adjust 0.025 at a time, I need +0.050. (Unless it's better for me to only do 0.025?)

Ok, I've made the adjustment. Yea, I just didn't know what the base is, it scares me to just adjust things.

I notice right now, that mine functions like the "Dynamic NB Core" by default. My CPU voltage works the same way.

I noticed you've increased your NB voltage, should I do the same, or try it at default?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Wow it doesn't give you any base value? Gigabyte come on...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old school BIOS for rev 1.1 gives base values and even tells you when you're getting in the "danger zone" adding voltage. The + values turn red instead of the usual white.
> 
> HWiNFO says 1.188 VID for mine too, could of swore BIOS said like 1.21V. I'm going to go check in BIOS right now.
> 
> Edit: Never mind, just remembered I have pics of my BIOS I sent my friend 1-2 months ago. So the stock is indeed 1.1875V. 1.2625V - 0.075V


Yea, it's annoying. I don't understand why they didn't think this information would be useful.


----------



## Chargeit

I'm over a hour and half into prime and looking good. I might cut it here, and see what happens. I'll most likely run this overnight, but for now, I want to use my computer. (I've been cracked out on 7 days to die).

I still don't get how it took so long for it to get all wonky without touching the north bridge.

Oh, my NB VID, still reads 1.188, even though I adjusted the NB core.


----------



## M3TAl

VID will always read 1.188. It's just the default voltage. Unfortunately there's no actual voltage reading for it. Pretty sure it gets Vdroop too, doesn't the Sabertooth have LLC for CPU-NB?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> VID will always read 1.188. It's just the default voltage. Unfortunately there's no actual voltage reading for it. Pretty sure it gets Vdroop too, doesn't the Sabertooth have LLC for CPU-NB?


Ah.

Well for now it's running fine. I"ll have to wait and see if I have further issues. I'd of never thought it was suddenly unstable. I mean, I had been running on those settings for at least a month, maybe more.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> a core failure is good at this point... meaning your stable enough to find a core failure without tripping...
> 
> Bump vcore one notch and make sure you have your IMC bumped as well. ~1.225 if running 2200 will help with a CPU OC.
> 
> 
> 
> OK, I'll check that out.
> 
> What I did was just bump my Vcore back up. I added 0.025v.
> 
> IMC = HT Link Voltage?
Click to expand...

ht link is the communication with .... everything but memory, pcie/ southbridge ect
you really dont need to bump it, unless you are like me @ 3900ht, and it adds way way more heat then cpu/nb which adds the next most heat
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> IMC (Internal Memory Controller) = CPU-NB. Handles communication with memory. Sometimes adding voltage to it can help even with stock 2200 MHz. When you get really high CPU clocks memory bandwidth increases and stresses the IMC more.


it can help with basic stabilization as well


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> OK, so NB voltage right? Base of 1.100V.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> OK, let me reset this.
> 
> I've set my CPU Vcore to +0.075, which is what I was at.
> 
> I've set my Dram Voltage to 1.525.
> 
> Now, as far as the rest, you're using names which aren't reflected in my Bios.
> 
> I've got this...
> 
> *CPU Vcore* +0.075
> 
> *NB Core* Auto
> 
> *DRAM Voltage* 1.525
> 
> *DRAM Termination* AUTO (blacked out, can't alter)
> 
> *HT Link Voltage* Auto
> 
> *NB/PCIe/PLL voltage* Auto
> 
> *CPU PLL Voltage* Auto
> 
> *NB voltage* Auto
> 
> *Vcore LLC* High






basic helpers,

cpu/nb ( nb core ) +0.1
nb + 0.1
cpu pll 2.695 ( also may help temps {only on giga boards}, why..... no one knows )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> They really don't give any explanation in the manual for these voltages. There's NB Core and NB Voltage... Nice naming scheme there Gigabyte.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to assume the CPU-NB is NB core because it's directly after the CPU Vcore setting and it gives 1.1V for NB Voltage (the stock voltage for CPU-NB is 1.2 something, don't remember the exact number).
> 
> Edit: Does stock CPU-NB voltage vary by chip just like it does for CPU VID? Pretty sure the stock for my chip is like 1.21V or so.
> 
> 
> 
> I fairly certain 8320 and 8350's are NB CORE VID @ 1.875.
> 
> 9370 & 9590 I do believe have higher volatges by default as they use a higher NB clock...
Click to expand...

no. the 1.8v is the stabilizer for the fsb it helps when fsb ocing to bump it one or two, any more and it way overshoots ( seriously i have had +50fsb before )


----------



## MadGoat

Wow!

I just realized I typed 1.875, vs. The 1.1875 I meant to type!

I do apologise... But yes, nbcore bump from 1.1875 up to around 1.25v is generally a good measure for an oc on these chips.

And yes, I've heard of PLL voltages helping fsb clocking... I however havnt seen the effect myself and actually run 2.25v cpu PLL with 246ht. It lowers the heat a bit with no loss in stability... (NB / PCIe PLL I run at 1.915v... Thus keeps my sli from stuttering out...)


----------



## M3TAl

Every time I've touched NB/PCIe PLL (just messing around, trying different things) the performance on my CPU drops off drastically. Like half the GFLOPs in IBT, half score in Cinebench, Deneb levels of memory bandwidth in Maxxmem ~8 GB/s instead of my usual 11GB/s+. Nothing else changed just that voltage. Put it back to stock and everything goes back to normal.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> I'm guessing a VRM blew. Have any images to share the moment?
> 
> Either way this scares on getting a UD3 Rev.4.0 if it still suffers from VRM house fires.


It's not my VRM it's my southbridge and my cmos reset pins falls off my mainboard. My oc was quite good. My FX-4170 oc to 46xxMhz @ FSB 257 Mhz @ Ram 1200 Mhz. I solderd 2x wires to my reset pins because it's so hidden and when the mainboard catches fire there is a trace from the reset pin to the southbridge. I can upload some pics later. Thanks for reading!


----------



## Papadope

Does anyone have a 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0? that LLC works at either medium or extreme with a FX-8xxx series chip during a stress test?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> Does anyone have a 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0? that LLC works at either medium or extreme with a FX-8xxx series chip during a stress test?


I do, I use Medium LLC for my OC... its the most stable I've found...


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I do, I use Medium LLC for my OC... its the most stable I've found...


The voltage appears the most stable at Medium but my motherboard stops working. It happens even at stock and when undervolting/underclocking. I just got off the phone with Gigabyte tech support and the rep insist that it is not the motherboard and I should look into my ram timings. It does work longer if i loosen ram timings and lower the speed but it worked properly with my 1100t. What type of ram do you have and are you able to run with xmp specs?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> It's not my VRM it's my southbridge and my cmos reset pins falls off my mainboard. My oc was quite good. My FX-4170 oc to 46xxMhz @ FSB 257 Mhz @ Ram 1200 Mhz. I solderd 2x wires to my reset pins because it's so hidden and when the mainboard catches fire there is a trace from the reset pin to the southbridge. I can upload some pics later. Thanks for reading!


Um, something fell of the board? You should of RMA'ed right then and there. Then you soldered wires to the board? No wonder it caught on fire.


----------



## Recursion

Yes, it falls down. I didn't use force or so. Anyway there is better things for it.


----------



## Papadope

What is the point of setting the dynamic voltage on the Gigabyte motherboards? I understand how to set it, I just don't understand why? What is the benefit over just setting the desired voltage?


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Um, something fell of the board? You should of RMA'ed right then and there. Then you soldered wires to the board? No wonder it caught on fire.


I'm not surprised actually. I put a Geforce GPU in mine to try out Hybrid Physix. I wasn't happy with the results and went to pull the Geforce out and it brought the PCIe slot out with it. These boards are complete and utter trash. In between the warping, throtting, having to rig things together to make it work, their terrible terrible support, Gigabyte won't ever get another dime from me.


----------



## M3TAl

You must of done something very wrong.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Wow!
> 
> I just realized I typed 1.875, vs. The 1.1875 I meant to type!
> 
> I do apologise... But yes, nbcore bump from 1.1875 up to around 1.25v is generally a good measure for an oc on these chips.
> 
> And yes, I've heard of PLL voltages helping fsb clocking... I however havnt seen the effect myself and actually run 2.25v cpu PLL with 246ht. It lowers the heat a bit with no loss in stability... (NB / PCIe PLL I run at 1.915v... Thus keeps my sli from stuttering out...)


Yea, I that was throwing me off a bit.

Man, I ran for months just off of multiplier and voltage, with no problems. I guess as age kicks in, you have to make some adjustments. That's the reason I never really messed with it. Shoot, I was able to take my oc to 4.6, and pass stability tests without touching the NB before. Heat is the reason I don't run it there. Without having my fans set to performance, I wouldn't want to run that 24/7 (I like quiet mode).

It has ran fine since. I mean, all it took was a little extra voltage to the NB core. I did set the ram to 1.525. I had noticed it reading 1.475 before, but, I figured it was just the way it read, since I was running it stock, off of a profile.

Anyway, here's hoping that it keeps. Crashes are real buzz kills. I'm still surprised it took so long to become a issue.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You must of done something very wrong.


I did, I bought a UD3 Rev 3. This board has been nothing but a complete nightmare since it came out of the box. My chronicles with it are documented well in this thread.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> What is the point of setting the dynamic voltage on the Gigabyte motherboards? I understand how to set it, I just don't understand why? What is the benefit over just setting the desired voltage?


The dynamic voltage adds the set voltage to every power state as appossed to running the processor at a fixed voltage all the time, thereby allowing the processor to utilize c1e, c6 and cool and quiet. Without dynamic voltage increases the processor will run full speed at full voltage all the time.

If your looking for best clock use set voltages... If you concearned with heat and noise for a 24/7 clock... Use dynamic voltages and find your system's stability.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Wow!
> 
> I just realized I typed 1.875, vs. The 1.1875 I meant to type!
> 
> I do apologise... But yes, nbcore bump from 1.1875 up to around 1.25v is generally a good measure for an oc on these chips.
> 
> And yes, I've heard of PLL voltages helping fsb clocking... I however havnt seen the effect myself and actually run 2.25v cpu PLL with 246ht. It lowers the heat a bit with no loss in stability... (NB / PCIe PLL I run at 1.915v... Thus keeps my sli from stuttering out...)
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, I that was throwing me off a bit.
> 
> Man, I ran for months just off of multiplier and voltage, with no problems. I guess as age kicks in, you have to make some adjustments. That's the reason I never really messed with it. Shoot, I was able to take my oc to 4.6, and pass stability tests without touching the NB before. Heat is the reason I don't run it there. Without having my fans set to performance, I wouldn't want to run that 24/7 (I like quiet mode).
> 
> It has ran fine since. I mean, all it took was a little extra voltage to the NB core. I did set the ram to 1.525. I had noticed it reading 1.475 before, but, I figured it was just the way it read, since I was running it stock, off of a profile.
> 
> Anyway, here's hoping that it keeps. Crashes are real buzz kills. I'm still surprised it took so long to become a issue.
Click to expand...

i doubt it, i know people running 1.7v 24/7 for well over a year now
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> What is the point of setting the dynamic voltage on the Gigabyte motherboards? I understand how to set it, I just don't understand why? What is the benefit over just setting the desired voltage?
> 
> 
> 
> The dynamic voltage adds the set voltage to every power state as appossed to running the processor at a fixed voltage all the time, thereby allowing the processor to utilize c1e, c6 and cool and quiet. Without dynamic voltage increases the processor will run full speed at full voltage all the time.
> 
> If your looking for best clock use set voltages... If you concearned with heat and noise for a 24/7 clock... Use dynamic voltages and find your system's stability.
Click to expand...

think of it as offset, giga just had to use a special name for it


----------



## roflcopter159

Hey guys, question or two for you. I want to run my bluray drive externally through the esata port. First, are the esata ports on this board (UD3 Rev 1.1) powered, and if they are, will they provide enough power? Second, I have seen other options for this such as this and in the description it says:
Quote:


> If you use it with your 3.5 or 5.5" HDD, then please make sure that your USB devices offer 12V Power


I know that there is the advertised "3X USB Power" for this board. What does that make the supplied power from the USB ports? Will it be enough or should I look into a wall outlet to sata power adapter and a separate sata to esata cable?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> Hey guys, question or two for you. I want to run my bluray drive externally through the esata port. First, are the esata ports on this board (UD3 Rev 1.1) powered, and if they are, will they provide enough power? Second, I have seen other options for this such as this and in the description it says:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> If you use it with your 3.5 or 5.5" HDD, then please make sure that your USB devices offer 12V Power
> 
> 
> 
> I know that there is the advertised "3X USB Power" for this board. What does that make the supplied power from the USB ports? Will it be enough or should I look into a wall outlet to sata power adapter and a separate sata to esata cable?
Click to expand...

i do not know if they are powered sorry.

but yea wall outlet, 3x power is talking about amps, they are just 5v


----------



## roflcopter159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *roflcopter159*
> 
> Hey guys, question or two for you. I want to run my bluray drive externally through the esata port. First, are the esata ports on this board (UD3 Rev 1.1) powered, and if they are, will they provide enough power? Second, I have seen other options for this such as this and in the description it says:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> If you use it with your 3.5 or 5.5" HDD, then please make sure that your USB devices offer 12V Power
> 
> 
> 
> I know that there is the advertised "3X USB Power" for this board. What does that make the supplied power from the USB ports? Will it be enough or should I look into a wall outlet to sata power adapter and a separate sata to esata cable?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i do not know if they are powered sorry.
> 
> but yea wall outlet, 3x power is talking about amps, they are just 5v
Click to expand...

Oh, ok. Thanks for the help!


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/7967347

finally broke 30k at stock gpus, feel like i am finnally getting the feel of this ud7


----------



## Chargeit

Ugh, I had another crash just now.

Man, I'm wondering if it isn't the mobo going bad, considering the rep of rev 3 boards.


----------



## M3TAl

Set everything back to stock and see if you still get these random crashes.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Set everything back to stock and see if you still get these random crashes.


Yea, I'll check it out.

I'm also going to order,

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16899261023

To test the PSU.

Lets see, adjusting my OC seemed to stop the crashes, for a day. Now, before doing that, it had got to the point where it failed a stress test quickly, and crashed. This was at setting that worked fine for at least a month (Since I changed my LLC to high).

Now, I wonder if it was just chance that the system didn't crash after adjusting the bios settings. I'd think if it were the PSU, that wouldn't of affected it.

When it crashes, the screen goes blank, the system continues to run, but, there is nothing on screen and it is unresponsive. If I am playing a game, or watching a movie, the speakers making noises until I reset the computer.

So, it isn't a full power loss, since the system stays on. It comes up as a unexpected power failure, but maybe that's because I have to hold down the power button to make it shut down.

I'm giving it a quick run of prime95, to see if I can get it to crash.

I will set it to factory default, after I'm done with this. I still don't think this is a bad OC, there has to be something wrong hardware wise. The issue is, these problems could be coming from any number of sources I'd think.

***OK, again, it took running both Prime95 and heaven to crash it after about 15 min.


----------



## Chargeit

I crashed running both heaven, and Prime95 at stock Bios settings. Fairly quick, less than 5 min. (Running them at the same time).


----------



## M3TAl

If a new PSU doesn't fix it then I'm kind of out of ideas.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If a new PSU doesn't fix it then I'm kind of out of ideas.


Yea, I mean, I really think it's the PSU... Which sucks, since, lets face it, PSU aren't really that fun.

I ordered that PSU tester, maybe that can help seal the deal.

This blow, since I was just about to get the rest of the parts for my spare rig, which will be my ol'ladys rig. Oh well, that will have to wait a little longer if I have to get a new PSU.

I still have my old CX500M laying around. I mean, it would be enough to run the system, to at least test, but, I really don't want to rewire the thing if I don't have to. Oh, crud, I don't think it has enough cables to power my 780.

Crap, I really do think it's the PSU... I mean, I just ordered that testers, which was 20 bucks. Considering it's going to run me almost 200 for the PSU I'm thinking about getting, it would be nice to not waste that.

Oh well, it will be a nice part to have... I'm just bummed I can't go a long with finishing that computer up just yet.

**Oh, and you can be damned sure, I'm going to send that TX850M in for warranty. I won't be letting that slide. I'll keep it as a back up.


----------



## MadGoat

Still sounds like memory to me, have you ran a boot memtest86+ test yet? If notnot, I would suggest it.

I know I chased stability around my OC forever until I finally excepted it could be memory. And sure enough... I had to loosen timings and pump the voltage to keep my favorite OC.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Still sounds like memory to me, have you ran a boot memtest86+ test yet? If notnot, I would suggest it.
> 
> I know I chased stability around my OC forever until I finally excepted it could be memory. And sure enough... I had to loosen timings and pump the voltage to keep my favorite OC.


It's gotta be the memory or the PSU. I would check the memory first since that would be the easiest to resolve. I've had my UD7 since it was released, and this was a review sample. I've had 0 issues with it at all. Well, other than Easy Tune, but Gigabyte's software has always had issues.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> It's gotta be the memory or the PSU. I would check the memory first since that would be the easiest to resolve. I've had my UD7 since it was released, and this was a review sample. I've had 0 issues with it at all. Well, other than Easy Tune, but Gigabyte's software has always had issues.


Agreed,

I've not only have every rev of the 990fxa-ud3 and have had no problems aside from the throttling issues if the rev 3, but my personal experience continues to point at ram. Either not enough voltage, bad timings, or bad sticks.

Eliminate the variables before you throw money at it.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I passed memtest86, it ran 10 passes, all night the other day.

I really think it has to be the PSU.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I passed memtest86, it ran 10 passes, all night the other day.
> 
> I really think it has to be the PSU.


Are you sure you have enough NB Core Voltage? I had to increase it when increasing LLC, solved my black screen problems during stress testing.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> Are you sure you have enough NB Core Voltage? I had to increase it when increasing LLC, solved my black screen problems during stress testing.


Man, my previous settings, before the adjustments the other day, ran for over a month fully stable. It's not that, it's PSU.

Even at stock settings, I was able to crash the system running both prime95, and Heaven. My +12V rail has low readings (11.68 - 11.98V). I'm not sure this is so low as to be an issue, but, it also could be a misread, and much lower.

If I were able to set my CPU to stock, and pass, or not crash in the same time, maybe. But, for it to crash at stock, or oc'ed I can't help but think it's PSU, and not just settings.

As much as I don't want the PSU to be the issues (I'd of been happy if it were the ram), it's what I've been looking at since these crashes for started. If it did end up not being the PSU, I'd be damned amazed by this point.

Now, I could wait until next week, when I get that tester in to check my PSU, or, I can just order a new PSU tomorrow, and than use the tester when I take it out, to verify that it's bad. That will help avoid wasting time/effort/money sending it in for warranty. Which is what I'll do.

To be honest, I don't want to buy a new PSU, but, I'm most likely going to get a SeaSonic this time, and hopefully not have to worry about the PSU any time soon.

*I could right now, switch out my current PSU, for my old one. I'd have to use my HD 7850, instead of my 780 though (CX500M doesn't have connections for the 780). Now, if that worked, than it would prove further that it was the PSU, though, since I'm using a different GPU...

I thought about the GPU, but, if that were the case, I don't think making adjustments to my OC would of had any affect. Also, I'd think I could cause it to crash just running heaven.

I have to say, that this is one of those nightmare problems. It seems that it's set off by multiple things, isn't very predictable, and could have more than one cause.

*I might do that later, and see what happens, but, damned if I want to do it.


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Man, my previous settings, before the adjustments the other day, ran for over a month fully stable. It's not that, it's PSU.
> 
> Even at stock settings, I was able to crash the system running both prime95, and Heaven. My +12V rail has low readings (11.68 - 11.98V). I'm not sure this is so low as to be an issue, but, it also could be a misread, and much lower.
> 
> If I were able to set my CPU to stock, and pass, or not crash in the same time, maybe. But, for it to crash at stock, or oc'ed I can't help but think it's PSU, and not just settings.
> 
> As much as I don't want the PSU to be the issues (I'd of been happy if it were the ram), it's what I've been looking at since these crashes for started. If it did end up not being the PSU, I'd be damned amazed by this point.
> 
> Now, I could wait until next week, when I get that tester in to check my PSU, or, I can just order a new PSU tomorrow, and than use the tester when I take it out, to verify that it's bad. That will help avoid wasting time/effort/money sending it in for warranty. Which is what I'll do.
> 
> To be honest, I don't want to buy a new PSU, but, I'm most likely going to get a SeaSonic this time, and hopefully not have to worry about the PSU any time soon.
> 
> *I could right now, switch out my current PSU, for my old one. I'd have to use my HD 7850, instead of my 780 though (CX500M doesn't have connections for the 780). Now, if that worked, than it would prove further that it was the PSU, though, since I'm using a different GPU...
> 
> I thought about the GPU, but, if that were the case, I don't think making adjustments to my OC would of had any affect. Also, I'd think I could cause it to crash just running heaven.
> 
> I have to say, that this is one of those nightmare problems. It seems that it's set off by multiple things, isn't very predictable, and could have more than one cause.
> 
> *I might do that later, and see what happens, but, damned if I want to do it.


The reason why I brought it up was I thought I saw you write you increased the LLC to high. At all stock settings if I turn LLC on without adding nb core voltage I get the black screen. As for your PSU like you said it could just be incorrect readings or it could have a problem. The only way to know for sure is to use a multi meter as software readings are not always accurate.

I suggest hooking up your CX500M just to the CPU and motherboard and leave your current PSU hooked up to the GPU by jumping the green and black pins. You could test with the CX500M without having to remove your 780. This will only work if your sure the crash is CPU related though.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> The reason why I brought it up was I thought I saw you write you increased the LLC to high. At all stock settings if I turn LLC on without adding nb core voltage I get the black screen. As for your PSU like you said it could just be incorrect readings or it could have a problem. The only way to know for sure is to use a multi meter as software readings are not always accurate.
> 
> I suggest hooking up your CX500M just to the CPU and motherboard and leave your current PSU hooked up to the GPU by jumping the green and black pins. You could test with the CX500M without having to remove your 780. This will only work if your sure the crash is CPU related though.


Thanks for the advice. Yea, I'm thinking about it, yet, this isn't a great time to do it. I won't be able to get to something like that today, or tomorrow (until later). Ugh, if I wait until tomorrow night, than anything I ordered wouldn't ship until Monday.

I don't know. I mean, I'll see if I can get it in tonight. If not, I think I'll have to take my chances on a new PSU. If I wait until tomorrow night, it wouldn't ship until Monday. If I do order the PSU, and it ends up not being the problem, than I've gained a new high quality PSU, so not a total loss.

***Oh, another thing, I just noticed last night. When running both Prime95, and Heaven, my GPU can't keep 99% usage. It is all over the board. This has to be because of not getting enough power, wouldn't you say. I had done that so late, that I forgot about it until just now.


----------



## Chargeit

OK so, I've decided on a PSU!

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817148048

I might as well say f'it, and just get something like this if I'm going to have to replace my PSU every few months anyway.


----------



## Chargeit

But really, I'm split between.

SeaSonic X Series X-850
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102

Or

SeaSonic Platinum SS-860XP2 860W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151111

I'm also wondering if I should cut down to a 750w PSU, since I doubt I use enough wattage to need a full 850. The main reason I wanted 850w, is in case I ever SLI/crossfire. I'm just not sure it's the best wattage to have at my current needs.

So, what do you think, the gold, or platinum? 750, or 850w?


----------



## M3TAl

Seasonics are usually some of the best PSU's around, they're just too rich for my blood.







There's a reason I run an UD3 and bought much of the system used too







.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Seasonics are usually some of the best PSU's around, they're just too rich for my blood.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a reason I run an UD3 and bought much of the system used too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I hear you on that man. Shoot, there's a reason I went with a TX850M, that ended up costing 80 bucks after mail in.

However, I might as well drop the money this time, and get something that I know will be excellent. I hate spending this kind of money on a PSU, but, I'm thinking go big, or go home on this one.

Also, when I got that other PSU, I wasn't thinking I'd end up with something like a 780 in my system. I guess I need to feed the beast.









Still what do ya'll think. Stick to a 850w, and be lucky to draw 40 - 50% power from it, or drop down to a 750w, and maybe draw 50 - 60%. I mean I really like the idea of having the extra power, in case I add a 2nd GPU, but, I do think that at my current needs, it hinders the performance of the PSU doing that...

Ah, balls. I'm just going to stick with 850w, get the damned Platinum, and be secure in the knowledge that my PSU is basically a supermodel. I'll get my TX850M replaced, and keep as a spare, or use later, or sell, or use as a coaster... Something.

*I'm just happy now that I know the reason. That GPU usage not staying at 99% when running heaven/prime95 clearly points at it not getting enough power when my systems fully at load... Has to be.


----------



## M3TAl

Don't think Heaven, or Valley for that matter, running GPU under 99% is a PSU problem. It's just the way the bench/engine is.

Pretty sure the hardcore benchers, the people with 5 GHz+ 3930K's and such, don't get 99-100% GPU usage the entire time either. In Valley there are spots where GPU usage drops down to 94-97%, that's with a 5 GHz 8350 and measly 7870 XT.

And technically my 7870 XT pulls more power than your 780. I run this thing OC'ed to the max, 1.3V and 1200 MHz. Stock is 925 Mhz 1.188V. The 7870 XT is a Tahiti LE chip, cut down 7970. All this with a 650W Bronze PSU which has given me 0 problems.

I've edited the BIOS to allow power draw anywhere from 200-300W depending on set Power Limit. And I've seen it throttle in something like Furmark at 0% Power Limit so it's definitely capable of hitting 250W.


----------



## Chargeit

Well, just running heaven alone it would stay at 99%, now, it will drop every few scenes, to like 50% (guessing here) for a moment. (I think it used to stay at a steady 99%)

When I set my system to stock, and ran both heaven, and prime95 at the same time, my GPU usage was all over the place, just up and down, not steady at all.

When I run with my OC settings it does the same thing as at stock, GPU usage up and down.

The games I had problems crashing on, now that I think about it, are the games that the GPU overclocks itself to 1045 MHZ. Though since it did it at idle a few times, I don't know. The max voltage it will use, is 0.900v.

Now, there was a time, that it suddenly started crashing running prime95 alone. The OC adjustment seems to of fixed that.

I mean, is it possible that it's a GPU issue? Though, if that were the case, why would Prime95 start failing for awhile. And why is it that I can run prime95, or heaven fine alone.

It just seems like the common issue is power. I mean, like I said, this is a nightmare problem.

***My GPU VRM when running heaven can hit 83c, is this considered high? Can't VRM take over 100c?


----------



## M3TAl

It will definitely jump around if you run P95 at the same time. The CPU won't be able to feed the GPU fast enough because it's busy calculating prime numbers.

GPU VRM is typically good to 110-120C. It should have protection so it will throttle, hopefully.

Really don't know what the problem is... Maybe something weird with the GPU, who knows at this point lol. My GPU does weird things.

It refuses to restore connection to the monitor when PC is asleep or monitor is asleep. Have to hard reset the machine. No idea why. GPU will game, bench, sit idle at desktop all day no problem. Just messes up with monitor sleep. Different drivers and OS'es don't make a difference.


----------



## Chargeit

OK, so, things like this annoy me. I've never had a min fps reading over 22 with this card. The score was higher when I had a single monitor (1347?), but, I've never seen such a high min fps. That was after letting the card run heaven for about 30 min.

Man, I just don't get it. I have no clue.

A few weeks ago



When I first got my H100i (but only used one monitor)


----------



## M3TAl

I know some variability in Min FPS is normal, how much is normal I'm not sure. Can only comment on my experience with Valley, typically I've seen 2-3 FPS variance in Min FPS.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I know some variability in Min FPS is normal, how much is normal I'm not sure. Can only comment on my experience with Valley, typically I've seen 2-3 FPS variance in Min FPS.


It might be because I let it run for 30 min before. Maybe, if you just start it, and benchmark, it suffers from having to load it into memory? Also, since it's than heated up, maybe the max fps suffers from it?

I just know that have a .5 - 1 fps difference is normal from what I've seen, anymore, or less and something has changed.

I don't feel like it was as good of a run though, since it seemed like it was fairly low until the last few scenes. Than it caught up. Sub 50 fps, where normally I want to say it's over 50 by that point.

***I'm running heaven and prime. I'm watching my GPU +12V drop as low as 11.656, and hanging around 11.688, maxing at 11.703. Low of 11.656... My GPU voltage seems to run at 1.150 (the the 0.900v must of been a bad reading)

Now a low of 11.625

*I'm trying this on different drivers, my 3rd set. So far, I'm 30 min into both prime95, and heaven... If this ends up being crappy drivers. I just don't see how drivers would account for the system losing Prime95 stability before the adjustments to the OC.









***It crashed gaming again... It ran heaven and freaking prime95 for a hour and a half, I stopped there, since I figured the drivers sorted the issue out.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But really, I'm split between.
> 
> SeaSonic X Series X-850
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102
> 
> Or
> 
> SeaSonic Platinum SS-860XP2 860W
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151111
> 
> I'm also wondering if I should cut down to a 750w PSU, since I doubt I use enough wattage to need a full 850. The main reason I wanted 850w, is in case I ever SLI/crossfire. I'm just not sure it's the best wattage to have at my current needs.
> 
> So, what do you think, the gold, or platinum? 750, or 850w?


under normal usage the difference per month is like 5 cents


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> under normal usage the difference per month is like 5 cents


I was more worried about the PSU preforming as good as possible.

I don't even think it's the PSU.

I didn't format the SSD when I did that install of windows last time. Something must of funked up. It must be something software.

I'm doing a fresh install, formatting the SSD this time. I'll see if that won't take care of it.

*If this doesn't do it, I'm going to pull the 780, and try running my 7850.


----------



## mus1mus

Strange problem I should say.

But IMHO you don't have to jump into conclusions right away. Just reading your previous posts, I'm kinda set on pointing out your OC is unstable at the moment. But you can argue you tried it on stock and still crash.

And the issue went up to the GPU throttling. (having low minimums)

You passed Memtest for 10 runs. I should say from that point, your memory is almost stable. But not quite that fast.

I guess I can only suggest trying out doing a stress test (Prime?) at bone stock settings. (No CPU OC, No GPU OC, and No Memory OC) And yes, don't ever do Prime and Heaven simultaneously. You can't expect to have an error-free stress test when subjecting your system to multi-load (CPU-prime and Heaven for GPU) you'll never encounter that kind of usage in your life except heavy stress test like you did. Run Prime at stock alone. Wait for the result. And stress test your GPU on a different instance.

The reason for that is to pinpoint what's going wrong. Surely no point on testing your whole system when errors come in in the first place. Run Memtest for the memory. Do Prime for the CPU, Subject your GPU to loading after running all those if you pass them.

If you pass them all, Go back to your desired OC. Memtest again, Prime next, and GPU at load. See which test fails you.

Going back to above, there are instances that you can pass Memtest but fail your memory inside Windows. Memtest just tests your RAM with minimal loading from your CPU. That is to check RAM stability with a little or lesser intervention by the CPU especially when the CPU or RAM were Overclocked. (Again, Pinpointing the error) While inside Windows, they're being subjected to a much heavier load.

GPU-wise, the drop in FPS can be contributed to the fact that you are running multi-monitors. It adds to your GPU load. While results were better on a single monitor. That's common sense. Also, GPU performance depends on a lot of things. Throttling alone can be either due to HEAT, lack of Voltage, or COMBINATION of BOTH. FPS can also be affected by your CPU and RAM performance and settings.

As for your PSU, I have seen worse readings on mine. +12V - 11.88, +3.3V - 3.2, and +5V at 4.77. Not gonna say I am stable as hell since it is a very subjective issue. But on my daily abuse, my system hangs on.

My only hunch is that you have an unstable OC from the start. You might have been stable days ago, but you never knew if your last stable setting were on the verge of the balancing point. (little more heat , a little less Voltage on the CPU and Memory, would hurt your settings' stability).

Anyway, I'm no master but I can only say try eliminating your suspects.

Happy sweet-spot hunting.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I tested prime95, and heaven alone. At first, when this started happening, I was able to get prime95 to fail. Than, some adjustments were made. Now, I can't seem to get prime95 to fail, or heaven if I run them on their own. The last time I ran them both together, they ran for a hour and a half before I stopped them. Than, a game I started crashed my system in about 2 min.

Memtest was ran overnight. That passed. I also tired the built in windows memory test, that passed. Other than prime95, doing blend, I don't know of any memory tests for windows, I bench with maxxMeM2. My results are less than optimal, but normal for the memory.

Yea, the fps loss running heaven has to be because of the 2nd monitor. What I found odd was the increase in min fps. I've never seen it go past 22 min fps (over maybe 10 - 12 tests with current settings), to suddenly have 25 min fps is very odd, considering I'm having issues.

I did a fresh install last night, this time formatting before the installation. So far, it hasn't crashed, but, that really doesn't mean much. I pretty much expect to crash sooner or later.

If it does crash again, I'll try running some stock stress tests.


----------



## M3TAl

IBT (AVX version) can help test memory/CPU-NB too. Just use maximum memory or a custom amount that is near the max. That will stress memory and CPU-NB real nice







. I also get lower temps from IBT than from P95/OCCT too.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> IBT (AVX version) can help test memory/CPU-NB too. Just use maximum memory or a custom amount that is near the max. That will stress memory and CPU-NB real nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I also get lower temps from IBT than from P95/OCCT too.


Yea, I got IntelBurn when you mentioned it, but, I never used it.

I'll check it out.

I'm running prime95 right now, I kept my settings (with the NB adjustments), but, dropped the oc from 4.4, to 4.2. I'm going for 4 - 6 hours.

I had some luck at stock, so, it must be unstable. I still don't understand how it can take such a drastic stability change. How it can seem stable running prime95, or other stress tests, than fail gaming so quickly.

I'm pretty confident now that I can drop clocks and get this stable.

Right now, I'm running at the same voltages as before, but, @ 4.2, not 4.4.

If I can't get it stable like this, I will run stress tests, overnight at stock. I just can't bring myself to do a full day of stress testing at stock. I'll do it at night if I end up needing to.

_On a side note, I bought a monitor, and FX 6300 for my ol'ladys rig. Now, all it needs is a HDD (Hybrid will be prefect for her), Ram, and a case. I'm looking at 200 - 220ish, and it will be done. I'll gank the win7 64 OS off of the office PC for now._









***I'm almost 5 hours into this stability test, I'm thinking I'm going to stop right after I hit 5 hours. If that shouldn't be considered gaming stable, than I don't know what is.

*Well, I feel asleep on the sofa, so, here's 7 hours of prime95. Seems stable enough. (The voltage, and multiplier didn't drop during testing, just after I stopped it.*


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I've had instances where memtest would pass 8+ hours of running with no error ever found, then boot into windows go to watch a flash video and get a BSOD about instantly. Even though memtest never failed it turned out that my memory overclock was unstable. You can't always go by stress test results unfortunately.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> I've had instances where memtest would pass 8+ hours of running with no error ever found, then boot into windows go to watch a flash video and get a BSOD about instantly. Even though memtest never failed it turned out that my memory overclock was unstable. You can't always go by stress test results unfortunately.


The memory is running off of the XMP profile. I'd hope that wasn't the issue.

I'll have to see. If after this, it still gives me issues, I'll try the ram at default.

*Everything was going fine, I leave the room, and as I come back in, the computer crashes... Damn it.*

Ran 10 runs of IntelBurn Test, stressing 6k ram.



I ran Furmark after that. It passed everything fine. I did a 20 min run, and than benched it. After I closed it, and let it sit for a min it crashed again.

I ran SeaTools to see if any obvious issues showed up with my HDD/SSD. Everything passed.

_I'm currently checking out running my Ram at stock speed_. I'll see what happens. I just wish I had a more sure fire way of making it crash. The way it's been doing it, it could crash in 10 min, or it could play a game, and be fine for the next 10 hours.

If the ram doesn't do it, my next guess is video card. I might try more drivers, and than install that HD 7850.

If that doesn't do it, I'll have to wait until that PSU tester comes in, and see what it shows. Assuming the PSU is fine (I don't think the PSU is the issue because of other stress tests), I can't help but look at the motherboard.

Well, Something a long those lines.

*I'm still trying to get it to crash today. I just ran that FurMark again, since I was able to get it to crash last night about 5 min after running it. No go. However, I found this interesting.



My memory speeds are back up, after reducing the ram from the advertised 1600, to 1333. Now, I've seen higher GB/sec, but, I was under 9 for a min there. The write had been 5ish for a while.

If it is the ram, than it's still under warranty. Since I wanted new ram anyway, I'm not against buying some. I'll sit on it for awhile, and see what my stability looks like. If I can go a few days without crashing, than I'll know the ram is the issue, and that it can no longer run at the advertised settings.

****Crashed again while testing a game. I'm going to try single ram sticks, than the GPU.*


----------



## Chargeit

I was about to start pulling ram, when I went to unplug the power, and realize my power strip looks old enough to get "Soviet Russia jokes". I'm going to replace that, and see. I'm not sure how it would go down if it was having issues powering my rig, but, it's worth a shot. At worst, I get a extra power strip.


----------



## Worthless

So I recently built a new rig, and got a Gigabyte GA-FXA990 UD3 rev 4.0 (luckily enough, I honestly didn't do that much research on the motherboard since I somewhat trusted gigabyte and the reviews for quality) along with a fx8350. I'm quite new to overclocking (only prior experience was multiplier overclocking a 2500k, where all I literally did was changing a number), and after reading the big guides out there I still have a few questions.

I'm doing the FSB approach for the first time ever, and I'm so far at 4.5 ghz with a 20x225 Mhz bus speed at 1.42v and I'm not yet completely stable. I can run the small FFTs stress test for about five hours before a core fails, however the blend and big FFTs fails around the hour mark, so I'm thinking it might be the memory/NB? Not to mention the fact that I actually hit 58-60 degrees while running large FFTs on prime, on a mere 4.5 ghz and 1.42v?

The voltage is also dropping a bit under load after a while, it starts out at first at the set 1.42, but after a few hours it's usually down to 1.38-9v on CPUz and HWiNFO, is this normal? At what point will the VRMs throttle the CPU (and what does it throttle? Voltage or Ghz?). since they do run quite hot (90-103 degrees on full load). I'm currently using the Noctua NH-D14, but I was thinking that a Noctua NH-C14 that I've got lying around might help out the VRMs? Do you think it will make a difference?

Also, is there a difference (performance wise) between raising the fsb at a multiplier of 20 (and hit 225 like I have), and lowering the multiplier and raising the fsb through the roof?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worthless*
> 
> So I recently built a new rig, and got a Gigabyte GA-FXA990 UD3 rev 4.0 (luckily enough, I honestly didn't do that much research on the motherboard since I somewhat trusted gigabyte and the reviews for quality) along with a fx8350. I'm quite new to overclocking (only prior experience was multiplier overclocking a 2500k, where all I literally did was changing a number), and after reading the big guides out there I still have a few questions.
> 
> I'm doing the FSB approach for the first time ever, and I'm so far at 4.5 ghz with a 20x225 Mhz bus speed at 1.42v and I'm not yet completely stable. I can run the small FFTs stress test for about five hours before a core fails, however the blend and big FFTs fails around the hour mark, so I'm thinking it might be the memory/NB? Not to mention the fact that I actually hit 58-60 degrees while running large FFTs on prime, on a mere 4.5 ghz and 1.42v?
> 
> The voltage is also dropping a bit under load after a while, it starts out at first at the set 1.42, but after a few hours it's usually down to 1.38-9v on CPUz and HWiNFO, is this normal? At what point will the VRMs throttle the CPU (and what does it throttle? Voltage or Ghz?). since they do run quite hot (90-103 degrees on full load). I'm currently using the Noctua NH-D14, but I was thinking that a Noctua NH-C14 that I've got lying around might help out the VRMs? Do you think it will make a difference?
> 
> Also, is there a difference (performance wise) between raising the fsb at a multiplier of 20 (and hit 225 like I have), and lowering the multiplier and raising the fsb through the roof?


ppl like to claim there is a difference but no there isnt

your temps are quite high esp for that cooler.

fill out a rigbuilder ( upper right hand corner of this page), then put it in your sig ( click on your name, scroll down till you see your sig and edit ) i would be willing to bet you never adj llc?

the main plus about fsb ocing is you can up either ht, cpu/nb ( nb core ), ram.

i bet you need a few voltage bumps ram bump up 2 notches
cpu core + 0.1v
nb +0.1v

llc ~ high - ultra high


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ppl like to claim there is a difference but no there isnt
> 
> your temps are quite high esp for that cooler.
> 
> fill out a rigbuilder ( upper right hand corner of this page), then put it in your sig ( click on your name, scroll down till you see your sig and edit ) i would be willing to bet you never adj llc?
> 
> the main plus about fsb ocing is you can up either ht, cpu/nb ( nb core ), ram.
> 
> i bet you need a few voltage bumps ram bump up 2 notches
> cpu core + 0.1v
> nb +0.1v
> 
> llc ~ high - ultra high


The temps aren't that high. I hit 72c at the beginning of test 2 in prime blend with the FX-9590 at stock on the NH-D14 and then it throttles. Were only talking about a 200mhz and .09v difference. I could only imagine how much more difficult it becomes when your stress testing for multiple hours. With that mother board set your llc to medium. Their is no high on that model like most other Gigabytes, it is either medium or extreme. Extreme basically overvolts it by .1v and usually medium is right on the money.

Also I agree with Mega Man about the cpu nb core voltage. What is your current setting? Don't be afraid to raise it up to around ~1.25-1.3v. If you turn on llc you will definitely need to be around there. Also, I've seen my vrm's hit 113c and they didn't throttle but I would imagine that is very close to the limit. So you definitely have a little headroom when it comes to that.


----------



## Chargeit

We'll since I pulled that power strip, I've yet to have a crash.









I'm still not 100% that I won't end up crashing again, but, I manged to play this one game which would crash bad, about 6 times (30 min - 1 hr sessions), without a hitch. I've left the system sitting there, and nothing.

That's crazy if that was my problem, a damned old power strip.

I'll give it a few days, and assuming I get no more crashes, I'll move my OC back.

Man, I really hope that was the problem. This crap was getting freaking old quick, and driving me crazy. The only reason I thought of it, was my dog likes to hang in that spot, with her bed. I checked the power cord to make sure there were no bites, and started wiggling it around, to see if maybe she was moving it and causing it to loss power. That's when I thought how crummy it looked, and it clicked. Freaking crazy.


----------



## Worthless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ppl like to claim there is a difference but no there isnt
> 
> your temps are quite high esp for that cooler.
> 
> fill out a rigbuilder ( upper right hand corner of this page), then put it in your sig ( click on your name, scroll down till you see your sig and edit ) i would be willing to bet you never adj llc?
> 
> the main plus about fsb ocing is you can up either ht, cpu/nb ( nb core ), ram.
> 
> i bet you need a few voltage bumps ram bump up 2 notches
> cpu core + 0.1v
> nb +0.1v
> 
> llc ~ high - ultra high


Done. Hilariously enough Gigabyte doesn't have High. INSTEAD they have opted with the solution of auto, low, medium, NORMAL (?????) and extreme. No inbetweens. I've currently set it to medium.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> The temps aren't that high. I hit 72c at the beginning of test 2 in prime blend with the FX-9590 at stock on the NH-D14 and then it throttles. Were only talking about a 200mhz and .09v difference. I could only imagine how much more difficult it becomes when your stress testing for multiple hours. With that mother board set your llc to medium. Their is no high on that model like most other Gigabytes, it is either medium or extreme. Extreme basically overvolts it by .1v and usually medium is right on the money.
> 
> Also I agree with Mega Man about the cpu nb core voltage. What is your current setting? Don't be afraid to raise it up to around ~1.25-1.3v. If you turn on llc you will definitely need to be around there. Also, I've seen my vrm's hit 113c and they didn't throttle but I would imagine that is very close to the limit. So you definitely have a little headroom when it comes to that.


My CPU nb core voltage is already at 1.25, do you suggest I should raise it to 1.3?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worthless*
> 
> My CPU nb core voltage is already at 1.25, do you suggest I should raise it to 1.3?


you can but all it does is make more heat

idk much about that board then i know some boards it is recommended to leave llc on auto


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worthless*
> 
> My CPU nb core voltage is already at 1.25, do you suggest I should raise it to 1.3?


Only if you think you need it. It won't hurt, adds a small amount of heat but you have overhead to spare. On air up to 1.45v is safe on the nb core and up to 1.55v on water. I needed 1.3v for 4.8Ghz and 1.32v for 4.9Ghz. Your probably fine at 1.25v for your 4.5Ghz but if it needs more don't worry about increasing it. It's within the safe limits.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worthless*
> 
> Done. Hilariously enough Gigabyte doesn't have High. INSTEAD they have opted with the solution of auto, low, medium, NORMAL (?????) and extreme. No inbetweens. I've currently set it to medium.


Auto and Normal appear to be the same thing from what I have tested.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you can but all it does is make more heat


Yes, but it adds stability if the overclock is not stable.


----------



## Worthless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> Only if you think you need it. It won't hurt, adds a small amount of heat but you have overhead to spare. On air up to 1.45v is safe on the nb core and up to 1.55v on water. I needed 1.3v for 4.8Ghz and 1.32v for 4.9Ghz. Your probably fine at 1.25v for your 4.5Ghz but if it needs more don't worry about increasing it. It's within the safe limits.
> Auto and Normal appear to be the same thing from what I have tested.
> Yes, but it adds stability if the overclock is not stable.


So I juggled around on the fsb and multiplier, lowering it to 19x233 (4.4'ish) at 1.43v and it ran for 7 hours on blend just fine. The temps averaged to a 58 degrees celcius, but peaked at a 68 degrees. Seems a bit much, no?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worthless*
> 
> So I juggled around on the fsb and multiplier, lowering it to 19x233 (4.4'ish) at 1.43v and it ran for 7 hours on blend just fine. The temps averaged to a 58 degrees celcius, but peaked at a 68 degrees. Seems a bit much, no?


I don't let my temps go past 62, but, peaking at 68 isn't going to kill it. I think some commonly allow it to get to temps like that while stress testing. I don't, but, that's just me. I like mine running no more than 62c when stress testing, and sub 50c when gaming. Main reason is, I don't like having tons of heat introduced to my computer room. Also, cooler parts are happy parts if you ask me.

*I'm moving my OC back up. I'm back to 4.4 @ 1.416V. Testing I'm maxing out at 50c, but, I expect this to increase to as much as 58c, from previous tests. =D That might sound kind of low, but, I test with my H100i in performance mode, I normally run it in quiet which is half the RPM. The temps would be much higher in that mode while stress testing.


----------



## M3TAl

You might want to look into better fans for that h100i. You'll have same or better performance at much less RPM/noise.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You might want to look into better fans for that h100i. You'll have same or better performance at much less RPM/noise.


The issue with replacing these fans, are the fact some fans will pulsate if connected to the H100i pump, which some might not notice, but drove me crazy when I tried to replace them. I'll look around some more, but, it's hard to figure out which will, and which wont.

Right now, I'm sitting at 42c, max 52c (avg 45c). I might of been thinking of 58c, when running the stress tests in quiet. Though, I'm only 1 hour 15 min in. It should hit higher temps later on.

*In quiet mode, these fans are fine, but, it would be nice to have the option of setting to performance mode. In performance, I can barely watch a youtube video on my laptop, since the fans drown most videos out. Shoot, I could probably get a good daily 4.5 - 4.6 if I could cut down on some of the noise.


----------



## M3TAl

Corsair uses some non standard pwm for some reason. Another option is picking up a pwm splitter and using the onboard pwm with speedfan.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Corsair uses some non standard pwm for some reason. Another option is picking up a pwm splitter and using the onboard pwm with speedfan.


I don't get how they ended up with the H100i issues. Even their fans don't work properly with them. I mean, come'on.

I'll check some more out later. I'll order though amazon, since they'll take things back with no hassle, and pay for shipping. I do know when I first went to replace these, the new fans sounded great, at first.

=D I'm sitting at 42c right now. Lol, temp wise, that doesn't even sound like a stress test.

One thing I've done, is put my SpotCool back into my system. I have it pulling air from the front of my case, more or less at my NorthBridge. I'm wondering if that isn't helping general temps, by pulling some of that front air into the top of the case. Whatever the deal is, I'm getting really great temps right now. This large 780 basically cuts the inside of my system in half. I wouldn't say I was getting bad temps before, but, right now, well, check it.



Almost 2 hours in.

*SpeedFan was giving me all kinds of issues last time I used it. I want to say I kept crashing when using it. It has been a min, so, I don't remember, but, I just know it wasn't working out well.

**I really do like this HWiNFO64 now. I don't use it for daily monitoring however, just when stress testing. I still like Hwmonitor when just running, since it is very lite. Still, for stress testing, HWiNFO64 is freaking great.


----------



## mus1mus

Have you guys checked on the AOD update?

It now tells you the Temps Distance from Max which is around 70 Degrees Celcius.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> *SpeedFan was giving me all kinds of issues last time I used it. I want to say I kept crashing when using it. It has been a min, so, I don't remember, but, I just know it wasn't working out well.
> 
> **I really do like this HWiNFO64 now. I don't use it for daily monitoring however, just when stress testing. I still like Hwmonitor when just running, since it is very lite. Still, for stress testing, HWiNFO64 is freaking great.


and this is why you should buy a aquaero 6 i just bought my 4th ! need to buy a fifth xt and 2-4 pros !


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Worthless*
> 
> So I juggled around on the fsb and multiplier, lowering it to 19x233 (4.4'ish) at 1.43v and it ran for 7 hours on blend just fine. The temps averaged to a 58 degrees celcius, but peaked at a 68 degrees. Seems a bit much, no?


What's the actual voltage CPU-Z is reporting during the prime blend test? and what level is LLC on?

Welcome to OCN btw! Just realized.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and this is why you should buy a aquaero 6 i just bought my 4th ! need to buy a fifth xt and 2-4 pros !


---> Price: $224.99 <--- Oh hell no.









I'm fine with my $25 fan controller for case fans, and Corsair link for the CPU. If I were going to drop $224, I'd do it on moving to real water cooling, and not to supplement this H100i.


----------



## Mega Man

or you could buy it and then when you go full water you have a great fan controller

either way i wont build a system without it


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or you could buy it and then when you go full water you have a great fan controller
> 
> either way i wont build a system without it


Yea, I could see getting something like that down the line, but, I'm still building up my base.







I still need to put 16gb of ddr3 1866 ram into my system, and get a 3rd monitor. I don't need to find ways to spend money yet.


----------



## Mega Man

yo8u will not regret it so many customizing abilities including using hwmonitor or hwinfo or adia64 for sensors ( up to 8 software temp sensors. ) then you can say increase fan speeds off of a virtual sensor ( average temp, delta, highest, what ever ) so lets say your gpu and cpu is in the loop

and oyu want to be able to cool either if they are above 40c.

you can set the temp curve to do that, and if your pc freezes then the aq will keep running to a value you preset for that sensor from that curve as it has its own CPU built in !

wont even mention this ..... or will i


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I think I'll hold on that one. Shoot, I've still got to get the rest of my ol'ladys rig. Ram, HDD, Case, Fans, Fan Controller (Not that one =), and some filters should do it. Getting that settled up before doing anymore work on mine. Though, this should clear me up for doing more to my rig. I really need 16gb 1866 ram, and, another data drive. I've got a 120gb ssd for OS, and a 1tb HDD for data. My 1tb is filling up (over 700gb used), and I really need to get another to take up some of the slack.

I referred to a mechanical keyboard as a luxury item, but, a $225 fan controller is much more luxury than a $80 keyboard.

Do they come in black btw? That steel look just wouldn't work.


----------



## Worthless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papadope*
> 
> What's the actual voltage CPU-Z is reporting during the prime blend test? and what level is LLC on?
> 
> Welcome to OCN btw! Just realized.


Thanks, I absolutely love this site! The LLC is set on medium, and I have since the last post been working with lowering the voltage. It's currently at 1.41v, and after 5 hours in prime CPU-Z is reporting a voltage of 1.392-1.404v (it's kinda fluctating around that area, and this would happen even when I had the voltage at 1.43-4v as well).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I think I'll hold on that one. Shoot, I've still got to get the rest of my ol'ladys rig. Ram, HDD, Case, Fans, Fan Controller (Not that one =), and some filters should do it. Getting that settled up before doing anymore work on mine. Though, this should clear me up for doing more to my rig. I really need 16gb 1866 ram, and, another data drive. I've got a 120gb ssd for OS, and a 1tb HDD for data. My 1tb is filling up (over 700gb used), and I really need to get another to take up some of the slack.
> 
> I referred to a mechanical keyboard as a luxury item, but, a $225 fan controller is much more luxury than a $80 keyboard.
> 
> Do they come in black btw? That steel look just wouldn't work.


they dont make alot of money on the item, but they make money on the accessories

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=aquaero+faceplate

mine are in the mail


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they dont make alot of money on the item, but they make money on the accessories
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=aquaero+faceplate
> 
> mine are in the mail


Nice. It's just too rich for my blood, until I get more things out of the way. I was going to spend 200 on a PSU, but, I just figured if I was going to need to replace mine, I might as well do it right. I didn't end up needing to get that PSU, but, I did end up buying my ol'lady a FX 6300, Monitor, and Wireless card. Now, I need to get her the rest. This pay day I'll do the Ram, HDD (Hybrid), and case so that I can get her up and running. The week after, I'll pick up the rest, fans (cougar 120mm 4 pack), fan controller, and filters.

I can't wait, I've been really looking forward to getting her system built. I also think I can get her a nice OC on that 6300 with my old 212 evo.

*I thought about getting her a SSD, but, she wouldn't want to run a SSD, and data drive. Because of this, I think a 1tb hybrid is the best option. I also must admit, I really would like to see how one preforms. She'll love.


----------



## Recursion

There are a lot of controller already onboard and also a fan header can feed 3-5 fans, it depends. But you need something to share the fan head. On my Asus M5a990fx I can control up to 12 fans with just 3 controllers with the Antec 920 kuehler and the cpu and case fan. BTW. I hate noisy pc. There is also Speedfan. It works great and it can mix all temps sensors together even from the gpu. My pc is perfectly silent in idle and. under load it's bit like a jet! I have 12 fans!


----------



## bbond007

I was wondering how long it takes to RMA something to Gigabyte.

I know you guys have done some of that here









My motherboard is fine but I bought a r9 290x windforce which ran for about 5 hours before it died.

I called Gigabyte today and got an RMA number, as the RMA website was down.

The first tech I talked to really seemed like she was going out of her way to be deliberately rude.

The RMA was at least not rude like the tech, but still did not instill confidence.

I'm trying to decide if I should RMA it through Superbizz who I'm pretty sure is out of inventory, or RMA it through Gigabyte...

My other alternative is to try to and get a refund through Superbizz and just pick another brand - such is MSI

Thanks!


----------



## Papadope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I was wondering how long it takes to RMA something to Gigabyte.
> 
> I know you guys have done some of that here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My motherboard is fine but I bought a r9 290x windforce which ran for about 5 hours before it died.
> 
> I called Gigabyte today and got an RMA number, as the RMA website was down.
> 
> The first tech I talked to really seemed like she was going out of her way to be deliberately rude.
> 
> The RMA was at least not rude like the tech, but still did not instill confidence.
> 
> I'm trying to decide if I should RMA it through Superbizz who I'm pretty sure is out of inventory, or RMA it through Gigabyte...
> 
> My other alternative is to try to and get a refund through Superbizz and just pick another brand - such is MSI
> 
> Thanks!


That's not the experience I had when calling their tech support. I called them 5 times and spoke to 3 different people. The first 2 were super nice and offered me troubleshooting tips for the problem I was having. The 3 person who I spoke to was not rude, but he was not overly kind like the others. He was more straight to the point and in the end I solved the problems I was experiencing.

I have never been through their RMA process though, so I cannot comment on that end of it.


----------



## M3TAl

Friend of mine has RMA'ed a UD3 and Giga 6850. Don't remember how long the 6850 took but he RMA'ed it twice. The first time it came back with the same problem it was sent in for. Second RMA worked and still works to this day.

YMMV.


----------



## Chargeit

My damned computer crashed again...

OK, you know what, none of this started happening until after I got this Mechanical keyboard. Thinking about it, when I hooked it up, all of a sudden my SD reader stopped working and than I end up with tons of trouble. I'm gong to send this sob back, and get a Corsair or something.

Man it hadn't happened in 3 days.









*I was just looking at posts, and noticed that the day my issues started, I got a remote in. Now, the thing doesn't install drivers, and works off the same drivers as the mouse I guess. Could this be causing a conflict? It's crazy that after I did a few things, my system ran fine for 3 days.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Friend of mine has RMA'ed a UD3 and Giga 6850. Don't remember how long the 6850 took but he RMA'ed it twice. The first time it came back with the same problem it was sent in for. Second RMA worked and still works to this day.
> 
> YMMV.


Yeah, that makes me nervous....

It sounded a lot like these guys where going to attempt and fix it.

It probably needs a major repair the way it was behaving.

I just don't know how I feel about $682 video board that's been reworked









Anyway, its a moot point anyway because I went to the Tiger Direct for fans and ended up buying a MSI R9 290X and I'm just going to return the gigabyte card. I ended up buying the wrong size fans...

I actually liked the heat sink design of the Gigabyte card a little more, but my cards in my FX 8320 computer are MSI twin frozr and I been happy with them so far.


----------



## Chargeit

I'm putting my HD 7850 back in my system. I'll give it a go. It would make sense that it is the most expensive part of my rig.

*The game that just crashed two times in a row in is running fine. I'm still not 100% sure the cause is the GPU, but, I did start the RMA process. Tomorrow I should be getting that PSU tester in. I'll give mine a run, and see if maybe one of the PCI E lines are bad. The 7850 only uses a single one, where this GTX 780 uses 3, if one that I'm not using is the issue, I'm hoping that tester will let me know.

This is balls btw. I think I'm done with Nvidia products after this experience.

**I got that tester in, the PSU is fine. It's the GPU.


----------



## MadGoat

GREAT!

Now my rev. 4 has a fun new game! Everytime I enter the bios and change something then save and exit... the STUPID thing sits there with the power on, doing nothing!

It wont even respond to power / reset buttons. I have to PSU switch it, listen for the leak down... then switch it back on and only then will it boot! ... EVERYTIME!

This is the straw that broke the camels back with this build...


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> GREAT!
> 
> Now my rev. 4 has a fun new game! Everytime I enter the bios and change something then save and exit... the STUPID thing sits there with the power on, doing nothing!
> 
> It wont even respond to power / reset buttons. I have to PSU switch it, listen for the leak down... then switch it back on and only then will it boot! ... EVERYTIME!
> 
> This is the straw that broke the camels back with this build...


Wow! That's horrible. I'm really sorry to hear about this. It's really sad how many issues these boards seem to have and how good the performance is when they're working properly. I hope Gigabyte can help you resolve this.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Wow! That's horrible. I'm really sorry to hear about this. It's really sad how many issues these boards seem to have and how good the performance is when they're working properly. I hope Gigabyte can help you resolve this.


yeah, I'm normally one to see past most things and work through them...

But the blatant disrespect I've felt and seen from Gigabyte with these boards is just too much. I've had every revision on the the UD3 and they have all had faults that Gigabyte should have addressed.

Now with this new random bug (along with the other BIOS bugs that we have all been putting up with) ... I'm just fed up. It was running like a champ for three days after getting the cooling back in, now I cant even reboot... it just sits there with the power on and the screen black... Like CPU hypervisor got lost on it's way.

Not being able to reboot is a deal breaker.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> yeah, I'm normally one to see past most things and work through them...
> 
> But the blatant disrespect I've felt and seen from Gigabyte with these boards is just too much. I've had every revision on the the UD3 and they have all had faults that Gigabyte should have addressed.
> 
> Now with this new random bug (along with the other BIOS bugs that we have all been putting up with) ... I'm just fed up. It was running like a champ for three days after getting the cooling back in, now I cant even reboot... it just sits there with the power on and the screen black... Like CPU hypervisor got lost on it's way.
> 
> Not being able to reboot is a deal breaker.


I totally understand. That would be a deal breaker for me too.

The issue I'm currently having with my UD7 is I recently increased my overclock to 4.2 from 4.0 and now C&Q doesn't work. I think I just have to reset to the default settings in the BIOS and then drop it back down to 4.0. I don't think the higher overclock is supported by C&Q it looks like.

Nevermind. I'll just use K10Stat from now on. I forgot about that little piece of software.


----------



## hagtek

I've had C&Q working with a 4.6GHz overclock, just FYI.


----------



## hagtek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> yeah, I'm normally one to see past most things and work through them...
> 
> But the blatant disrespect I've felt and seen from Gigabyte with these boards is just too much. I've had every revision on the the UD3 and they have all had faults that Gigabyte should have addressed.
> 
> Now with this new random bug (along with the other BIOS bugs that we have all been putting up with) ... I'm just fed up. It was running like a champ for three days after getting the cooling back in, now I cant even reboot... it just sits there with the power on and the screen black... Like CPU hypervisor got lost on it's way.
> 
> Not being able to reboot is a deal breaker.


Same thing happened to the ASRock 990FX Killer I just returned for a refund.

PC was on, just not responding to keyboard/mouse, this would happen when it would go to sleep and 50% of the time from a cold boot.

Maybe a Windows update.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I totally understand. That would be a deal breaker for me too.
> 
> The issue I'm currently having with my UD7 is I recently increased my overclock to 4.2 from 4.0 and now C&Q doesn't work. I think I just have to reset to the default settings in the BIOS and then drop it back down to 4.0. I don't think the higher overclock is supported by C&Q it looks like.
> 
> Nevermind. I'll just use K10Stat from now on. I forgot about that little piece of software.


Is your windows power profile set to High, or, is something using your CPU? I know that EVGA precision for some reason uses 13% CPU, when it was on now that I don't have the 780 in my system. This caused my system to not throttle down until I disabled it. I stopped allowing it to run at start up of course (Until I get my 780 back in).

Also, make sure your set to down throttle. For instance, even if it is working, and it's set to min 100%, max 100%, you'll never throttle.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> GREAT!
> 
> Now my rev. 4 has a fun new game! Everytime I enter the bios and change something then save and exit... the STUPID thing sits there with the power on, doing nothing!
> 
> It wont even respond to power / reset buttons. I have to PSU switch it, listen for the leak down... then switch it back on and only then will it boot! ... EVERYTIME!
> 
> This is the straw that broke the camels back with this build...


Try resetting your bios at the jumper.

I had one time where I was messing with ram timings, set them too low, and nothing would make my board post. I basically had to reset the jumper, and maybe fully cut power to my board for a little while. This was on my 970a-ud3 rev 3.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I totally understand. That would be a deal breaker for me too.
> 
> The issue I'm currently having with my UD7 is I recently increased my overclock to 4.2 from 4.0 and now C&Q doesn't work. I think I just have to reset to the default settings in the BIOS and then drop it back down to 4.0. I don't think the higher overclock is supported by C&Q it looks like.
> 
> Nevermind. I'll just use K10Stat from now on. I forgot about that little piece of software.


From when I had a Deneb 955 on two different Giga boards CnQ would stop working after a certain multiplier. In fact the multiplier was different between both boards. The mATX board quit CnQ after like 3.6-3.7 GHz, the UD3 I believe was also after 4.0.

I bet if you keep a lower multiplier and raise FSB CnQ will still work. K10Stat is a nice program too.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> From when I had a Deneb 955 on two different Giga boards CnQ would stop working after a certain multiplier. In fact the multiplier was different between both boards. The mATX board quit CnQ after like 3.6-3.7 GHz, the UD3 I believe was also after 4.0.
> 
> I bet if you keep a lower multiplier and raise FSB CnQ will still work. K10Stat is a nice program too.


I think I'll just use K10Stat. That way I won't have to worry about it and can set my own parameters.


----------



## M3TAl

Hey Chargeit you said you have an Antec Spotcool fan right? The bendy fan with the Low, Medium, High speed switch?

What's the noise like inside a case? Really thinking about picking one or two up for GPU VRM heatsink and my HDD in the 5.25" bay (gets basically 0 airflow) but the only thing putting me off is the potential for annoying noise. My PC is far from silent but it's definitely quiet and a non-intrusive sound to me. All fans ~800 RPM just low air type noise and a tiny, tiny bit of hum from XSPC X2O 750 pump.

If they have a high pitched tone to them then it would probably be really annoying.


----------



## MadGoat

Well...

After having left the computer alone for me to gather my thoughts on it... I found (fairly quickly I might add) that the problem is Turbo Boost, or Turbo Core or wth ever it is...

I had Turbo core enabled and set to my OC's multi to keep the board from dooing the "double boot" on start up or reboot. (where is powers on for a sec, jumps off then on again).

Welp... Disable Turbo core and all is well! (Except now I'm annoyed once again by the double power boot thing it does).

So my question is... HOW in the .... does this little thing all of a sudden become the end all be all of this system and come between it and booting properly or rebooting at all? ... AND more so after the system has run fine with those settings for .... yeah well long enough.... lol??

I'm beside myself here...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Hey Chargeit you said you have an Antec Spotcool fan right? The bendy fan with the Low, Medium, High speed switch?
> 
> What's the noise like inside a case? Really thinking about picking one or two up for GPU VRM heatsink and my HDD in the 5.25" bay (gets basically 0 airflow) but the only thing putting me off is the potential for annoying noise. My PC is far from silent but it's definitely quiet and a non-intrusive sound to me. All fans ~800 RPM just low air type noise and a tiny, tiny bit of hum from XSPC X2O 750 pump.
> 
> If they have a high pitched tone to them then it would probably be really annoying.


I have it set to low, and hooked to my fan controller. I can't hear it at 100% (on the fan controller). It's quiet. I haven't tried it max, but, at low, you shouldn't notice it, and it moves a fair bit of air. More than enough to get some extra air to dead zones, without totally altering your cases airflow.

I say it's a good buy, just to have around. I didn't really start using mine, until the other day. Now, I'm happy to have it.


----------



## M3TAl

So you can change the speed with the fan controller or it just runs 100% all the time?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> yeah, I'm normally one to see past most things and work through them...
> 
> But the blatant disrespect I've felt and seen from Gigabyte with these boards is just too much. I've had every revision on the the UD3 and they have all had faults that Gigabyte should have addressed.
> 
> Now with this new random bug (along with the other BIOS bugs that we have all been putting up with) ... I'm just fed up. It was running like a champ for three days after getting the cooling back in, now I cant even reboot... it just sits there with the power on and the screen black... Like CPU hypervisor got lost on it's way.
> 
> Not being able to reboot is a deal breaker.
> 
> 
> 
> I totally understand. That would be a deal breaker for me too.
> 
> The issue I'm currently having with my UD7 is I recently increased my overclock to 4.2 from 4.0 and now C&Q doesn't work. I think I just have to reset to the default settings in the BIOS and then drop it back down to 4.0. I don't think the higher overclock is supported by C&Q it looks like.
> 
> Nevermind. I'll just use K10Stat from now on. I forgot about that little piece of software.
Click to expand...

glad you got it fixed but it should not be a problem. i have mine at 4.8 and have had it at 5.1 without issue both with fsb and multi and multi only ocs !


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> So you can change the speed with the fan controller or it just runs 100% all the time?


The fan controller alters the speed. It also dims, or brightens the light. Though, you can't fully turn the light off, without turning off the fan (I really don't like the light).


----------



## M3TAl

If the lights annoy me I'll probably try cutting the wires or something. Worked for a cooler master 120mm fan but this fan might be different, we'll see.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If the lights annoy me I'll probably try cutting the wires or something. Worked for a cooler master 120mm fan but this fan might be different, we'll see.


You should be able to black them out easy enough. I might myself, I just wasn't in the mood to mess with it when I was adding it. The LED though, are really easy to access.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Well...
> 
> After having left the computer alone for me to gather my thoughts on it... I found (fairly quickly I might add) that the problem is Turbo Boost, or Turbo Core or wth ever it is...
> 
> I had Turbo core enabled and set to my OC's multi to keep the board from dooing the "double boot" on start up or reboot. (where is powers on for a sec, jumps off then on again).
> 
> Welp... Disable Turbo core and all is well! (Except now I'm annoyed once again by the double power boot thing it does).
> 
> So my question is... HOW in the .... does this little thing all of a sudden become the end all be all of this system and come between it and booting properly or rebooting at all? ... AND more so after the system has run fine with those settings for .... yeah well long enough.... lol??
> 
> I'm beside myself here...


I have noticed that mine gets into that mode sometimes where it just sits on the gigabyte logo. For me it happens when the computer is not shut down properly. If you turn it off at that point it does not help.

I noticed it first when i enabled turbo core. If you want to re-enable turbo, and it happens again, press F12 and select your default boot drive.

I don't know what that has to do with a can of beans but it works for me.

Once you get past it, it seems to not happen again for a while.

The double-boot thing seems to be a hack to fix other bugs


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I have noticed that mine gets into that mode sometimes where it just sits on the gigabyte logo. For me it happens when the computer is not shut down properly. If you turn it off at that point it does not help.
> 
> I noticed it first when i enabled turbo core. If you want to re-enable turbo, and it happens again, press F12 and select your default boot drive.
> 
> I don't know what that has to do with a can of beans but it works for me.
> 
> Once you get past it, it seems to not happen again for a while.
> 
> The double-boot thing seems to be a hack to fix other bugs


Wow,

Your little trick worked. I went ahead and rebooted... double boot happened... F12 and selected my OS drive. Straight to reboot again... DEL to enter bios, enable turbo core and set the multi to match OC... save and exit.

And she works. Thank you for the info









I really hate to be this person, but Gigabyte has had 4 revisions to get this board straight... (none of which required a hardware change really). But they continue to sell these motherboards with half backed BIOS's and refuse to listen to the customer they do have.

It's sad to say this will also be my last Gigabyte product. I'll go ahead and put them in the category of Abit and PNY. You failed yourselves gigabyte.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Wow,
> 
> Your little trick worked. I went ahead and rebooted... double boot happened... F12 and selected my OS drive. Straight to reboot again... DEL to enter bios, enable turbo core and set the multi to match OC... save and exit.
> 
> And she works. Thank you for the info
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really hate to be this person, but Gigabyte has had 4 revisions to get this board straight... (none of which required a hardware change really). But they continue to sell these motherboards with half backed BIOS's and refuse to listen to the customer they do have.
> 
> It's sad to say this will also be my last Gigabyte product. I'll go ahead and put them in the category of Abit and PNY. You failed yourselves gigabyte.


I'm glad it worked, I know when that type of stuff happens you get it in the back of your mind that the MB has degraded or failed and that a larger failure will be soon to follow.

When mine did the same thing yours did at first, I thought it was dead. Due to a combination of factors:

If you reset the computer when stuck on the BIOS screen, the motherboard can get really stuck until fully powered down. it will appear as if the power supply is not working.

I have a USB powered hub plugged into the computer, so even when unplugging the computer the motherboard was still getting enough power to prevent it from fully powering down. I had even unplugged the power supply from the UPS for several minutes.

I had actually fully swapped out the power supply thinking it died and it still did not work after changing the power supply because the motherboard was still being powered by my hub... very strange.

I have these little tricks to work-around bugs/issues with this motherboard, and for me its very reliable, but there is no denying the fact that the BIOS seems to be totally powered by side-effects









Thanks for the REP!

I recently got a gigabyte r9 290x that went bad after maybe 5 hours of use. I decided to switch to MSI and I can say that I really don't regret the decision.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quick update. My power profile did somehow set itself to High. I know that I didn't do it, but after resetting it everything works as it should now and my CPU throttles again. Thanks for all of the help. K10Stat wouldn't work so I needed try and figure out what was causing the issue in the first place.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> I'm glad it worked, I know when that type of stuff happens you get it in the back of your mind that the MB has degraded or failed and that a larger failure will be soon to follow.
> 
> When mine did the same thing yours did at first, I thought it was dead. Due to a combination of factors:
> 
> If you reset the computer when stuck on the BIOS screen, the motherboard can get really stuck until fully powered down. it will appear as if the power supply is not working.
> 
> I have a USB powered hub plugged into the computer, so even when unplugging the computer the motherboard was still getting enough power to prevent it from fully powering down. I had even unplugged the power supply from the UPS for several minutes.
> 
> I had actually fully swapped out the power supply thinking it died and it still did not work after changing the power supply because the motherboard was still being powered by my hub... very strange.
> 
> I have these little tricks to work-around bugs/issues with this motherboard, and for me its very reliable, but there is no denying the fact that the BIOS seems to be totally powered by side-effects
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the REP!
> 
> I recently got a gigabyte r9 290x that went bad after maybe 5 hours of use. I decided to switch to MSI and I can say that I really don't regret the decision.


Yup, that's exactly what mine was doing. Wouldn't respond to restart or 5sec power button so a hard power reset was required. Now on my system, my speaker pick when the caps fully drain. You can here to "puff" of power leaving. That's my cue to switch the PSU back on, and only then would it start up.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quick update. My power profile did somehow set itself to High. I know that I didn't do it, but after resetting it everything works as it should now and my CPU throttles again. Thanks for all of the help. K10Stat wouldn't work so I needed try and figure out what was causing the issue in the first place.


I've had that happen once... I don't know what did it either.

But TBH I run the HIgh power profile with manual setting of the min pocessor state to 5% and all sleep setting and whatnot enabled... Because the High performance profile disables core parking without some reg hack trickery.


----------



## M3TAl

Long live Rev 1.1? Man these newer boards really have some weird problems. Besides poor VRM cooling, which can be remedied somewhat easily though we really shouldn't have to, and warping Rev 1.1 has been rock solid.


----------



## roflcopter159

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Long live Rev 1.1? Man these newer boards really have some weird problems. Besides poor VRM cooling, which can be remedied somewhat easily though we really shouldn't have to, and warping Rev 1.1 has been rock solid.


Yeah, I haven't had any problems with my 1.1. At least none that I have noticed, everything seems to be in perfect working order.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Long live Rev 1.1? Man these newer boards really have some weird problems. Besides poor VRM cooling, which can be remedied somewhat easily though we really shouldn't have to, and warping Rev 1.1 has been rock solid.


I concur with you man, i don't have any problems whatsoever with this board.

first i had the UD3 and the poor VRM's could not handle my 8350 so i spend some time listen to what people get with the UD5 rev 1.1 and it seemed to be an solid board, that's why i got it and have had zero problems so far.


----------



## M3TAl

I don't think the actual mosfets are any different on the UD5 vs UD3. The UD5 just has a more hefty heatsink. Heatsinks can be upgraded on the UD3 and better thermal pads used. Also direct airflow to the heatsink makes all the difference in the world. But again we shouldn't have to mess with all of that just to make sure the mosfets don't blow up.

I did it because I like tinkering with it and well it was fun improving the VRM cooling.

Now if you'll excuse there's some dog vomit and diaherrea that needs cleaning. This is going to be fun


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I don't think the actual mosfets are any different on the UD5 vs UD3. The UD5 just has a more hefty heatsink. Heatsinks can be upgraded on the UD3 and better thermal pads used. Also direct airflow to the heatsink makes all the difference in the world. But again we shouldn't have to mess with all of that just to make sure the mosfets don't blow up.
> 
> I did it because I like tinkering with it and well it was fun improving the VRM cooling.
> 
> Now if you'll excuse there's some dog vomit and diaherrea that needs cleaning. This is going to be fun


I don't know about the mosfet but the UD5 has more phases so it can handle more power efficiently.

Good luck with your dog puke


----------



## MadGoat

Computer still doing it... Little video I just sent to Gigabyte support through my open ticket.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Computer still doing it... Little video I just sent to Gigabyte support through my open ticket.


That's ridiculous! Great looking build though, just too bad it doesn't work properly. I've dealt with Gigabyte as a reviewer and they were always very prompt to answer my questions and provide assistance. Hopefully they're the same with their customers.


----------



## danilon62

Can I join this refined gentleman club?

Installed my 990FXA-UD5 REV 3.0 a week ago and its just awesome


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Yup, that's exactly what mine was doing. Wouldn't respond to restart or 5sec power button so a hard power reset was required. Now on my system, my speaker pick when the caps fully drain. You can here to "puff" of power leaving. That's my cue to switch the PSU back on, and only then would it start up.
> I've had that happen once... I don't know what did it either.
> 
> But TBH I run the HIgh power profile with manual setting of the min pocessor state to 5% and all sleep setting and whatnot enabled... Because the High performance profile disables core parking without some reg hack trickery.


yep, i know that same sound from the speakers


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I don't know about the mosfet but the UD5 has more phases so it can handle more power efficiently.
> 
> Good luck with your dog puke


They're both 8+2 phase and I think the mosfets are identical unless someone can confirm otherwise. The UD5's heatsink is just more massive and has a heatpipe.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> They're both 8+2 phase and I think the mosfets are identical unless someone can confirm otherwise. The UD5's heatsink is just more massive and has a heatpipe.


Same, the UD3 rev 4 is actually has a much beefier VRM heat sink than the UD5 and UD7.

Funny because I just got done with a side conversation with Gigabyte tech support about why there isn't an option to disable the power limit in the BIOS of the UD3.

This was my response:

"Dear customer,

The reason of the power limit is to prevent damaged to the CPU or other hardwares, we understand that it maybe not enough for Pro-overclockers, unfortunately that's the design of the Bios.

Thank you."

Which I promptly replied:

"That is unfortunate. The Ud5 and UD7 boards have the ability to disable the power limit. I guess I don't understand why at least the UD3 rev 4 would have the same since it has MUCH better cooling."

We'll see where this goes. I doubt far at all and I'm sure I'm wasting my time.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Same, the UD3 rev 4 is actually has a much beefier VRM heat sink than the UD5 and UD7.
> 
> Funny because I just got done with a side conversation with Gigabyte tech support about why there isn't an option to disable the power limit in the BIOS of the UD3.
> 
> This was my response:
> 
> "Dear customer,
> 
> The reason of the power limit is to prevent damaged to the CPU or other hardwares, we understand that it maybe not enough for Pro-overclockers, unfortunately that's the design of the Bios.
> 
> Thank you."
> 
> Which I promptly replied:
> 
> "That is unfortunate. The Ud5 and UD7 boards have the ability to disable the power limit. I guess I don't understand why at least the UD3 rev 4 would have the same since it has MUCH better cooling."
> 
> We'll see where this goes. I doubt far at all and I'm sure I'm wasting my time.


So if this is just a software (BIOS) limitation, couldn't you just load a BIOS from an earlier revision board? If it's not a hardware limitation this should work. That is unless this Gigabyte support rep has no idea or clue what he's talking about.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> So if this is just a software (BIOS) limitation, couldn't you just load a BIOS from an earlier revision board? If it's not a hardware limitation this should work. That is unless this Gigabyte support rep has no idea or clue what he's talking about.


I wish I could... its the introduction of this UEFI graphical bios stuff that made gigabyte flip out and start shoving half whit excesses for BIOS's out the door.

The rev 3 and rev 4 are the new "UEFI Graphical" interfaces... I rather have a BIOS that works... no matter what it looks like.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I wish I could... its the introduction of this UEFI graphical bios stuff that made gigabyte flip out and start shoving half whit excesses for BIOS's out the door.
> 
> The rev 3 and rev 4 are the new "UEFI Graphical" interfaces... I rather have a BIOS that works... no matter what it looks like.


Right, I forgot about that. Hopefully they'll come out with a BIOS revision that will solve this issue. It doesn't sound like they're taking it very seriously though. You'd think a Gigabyte rep would at least come on here and answer questions.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Right, I forgot about that. Hopefully they'll come out with a BIOS revision that will solve this issue. It doesn't sound like they're taking it very seriously though. You'd think a Gigabyte rep would at least come on here and answer questions.


I guess not all of us have the opportunity to deal with an awesome company like swiftech or reps such as yourself.


----------



## BramSLI1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I guess not all of us have the opportunity to deal with an awesome company like swiftech or reps such as yourself.


Thanks for that man. It just doesn't make sense that these companies don't take their customer support more seriously. We're a small company and we even understand how important having a community presence is. The business management classes I took also made this clear. If you ignore your customers it's only a matter time before they ignore you as well.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Thanks for that man. It just doesn't make sense that these companies don't take their customer support more seriously. We're a small company and we even understand how important having a community presence is. The business management classes I took also made this clear. *If you ignore your customers it's only a matter time before they ignore you as well*.


I so wish this was more true for other things... Like with the ISP's. Most people only have the the choice of one ISP or no internet. The things going on right now are borderline insane. I'm really scared for the future of the internet and how we access it.


----------



## MadGoat

well that was the waste of time I was expecting:

"Dear customer,

As I mentioned previosly, we don't seen to have any issue on the board, if you believe it's the motherboard issue, we can offer you repair or replacement service. Please register and submit the "Request repair" form under user support:

http://ggcs.gigabyte.com/service/Login_US.aspx

Make sure to put "snxxxxxxxx" when typing in the serial number.

Thank you."










Annnnnd, that was their last chance. No more gigabyte for me. I will replace all gigabyte motherboards running in this house and my families homes just for this. (5 in total)


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Annnnnd, that was their last chance. No more gigabyte for me. I will replace all gigabyte motherboards running in this house and my families homes just for this. (5 in total)


I don't think you should spend the money to do that









It is discouraging that they won't even take a look at the bug you reported.

When I talked to the Gigabyte tech support (because the RMA website was down), she seemed to take every opportunity to snap at me or be condescending.

For example, she asked me what type of power supply I had, and I responded with Roswell Capstone 750 gold and she snapped back(in the condescending tone) and said "why are you telling me brand, no care about brand... just size"

The entire session went like that until she transferred me to the RMA guy who was nicer.

Anyway, I'm glad I don't have to deal with gigabyte RMA process.

I'm in the process of building secondary computer and I'm waiting on the MB.

Right now I running a Pentium4 with a 290x. I wanted to give Mantle a test


----------



## MadGoat

well come to find out that not only does my proc hate life @ OC... i cant give it the voltage it wants to get to the OC I want it at. I needs ~1.6v to keep 4.8 stable ... and this board shuts off @ anything over 1.584v...









so i have to run ~ 4.65 to keep everything running ok... I wish I could justify springing for a new chip but I just cant bring myself to do it.


----------



## M3TAl

Hey could be worse. My 8320 needed ~1.6V for 4.6 GHz. This 8350 is currently at 4.95 GHz ~1.5V idle ~1.55V max load. Cinebenched it up to 5.4 GHz, low ambient of course.

Board shutting off at 1.6... Just sad. Maybe I'll try MSI in the future.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danilon62*
> 
> Can I join this refined gentleman club?
> 
> Installed my 990FXA-UD5 REV 3.0 a week ago and its just awesome


welcome !


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> They're both 8+2 phase and I think the mosfets are identical unless someone can confirm otherwise. The UD5's heatsink is just more massive and has a heatpipe.
> 
> 
> 
> Same, the UD3 rev 4 is actually has a much beefier VRM heat sink than the UD5 and UD7.
> 
> Funny because I just got done with a side conversation with Gigabyte tech support about why there isn't an option to disable the power limit in the BIOS of the UD3.
> 
> This was my response:
> 
> "Dear customer,
> 
> The reason of the power limit is to prevent damaged to the CPU or other hardwares, we understand that it maybe not enough for Pro-overclockers, unfortunately that's the design of the Bios.
> 
> Thank you."
> 
> Which I promptly replied:
> 
> "That is unfortunate. The Ud5 and UD7 boards have the ability to disable the power limit. I guess I don't understand why at least the UD3 rev 4 would have the same since it has MUCH better cooling."
> 
> We'll see where this goes. I doubt far at all and I'm sure I'm wasting my time.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I wish I could... its the introduction of this UEFI graphical bios stuff that made gigabyte flip out and start shoving half whit excesses for BIOS's out the door.
> 
> The rev 3 and rev 4 are the new "UEFI Graphical" interfaces... I rather have a BIOS that works... no matter what it looks like.
> 
> 
> 
> Right, I forgot about that. Hopefully they'll come out with a BIOS revision that will solve this issue. It doesn't sound like they're taking it very seriously though. You'd think a Gigabyte rep would at least come on here and answer questions.
Click to expand...





nope they did that because the ud3s were having vrm issues, they would blow up
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Hey could be worse. My 8320 needed ~1.6V for 4.6 GHz. This 8350 is currently at 4.95 GHz ~1.5V idle ~1.55V max load. Cinebenched it up to 5.4 GHz, low ambient of course.
> 
> Board shutting off at 1.6... Just sad. Maybe I'll try MSI in the future.


ASUS !!!!!


----------



## Chargeit

Ordered the last few parts of my ol'ladys rig, just missing one part, the ram. Oh, and I'm using the GPU... Damned faulty GPU kind of threw me for a loop.

I'd be much cooler with the whole RMA thing, if it weren't for the $10 processing fee... The hell, you mean I have to pay shipping, go however long without my GPU, and you're going to charge me for damned paper work on a 2 month old GPU. That's just wrong man. I'm willing to bet I could fight and get that fee waved, but, I'm having to deal with customer service while working, and just can't spend the proper time arguing my point.

I hope my old 970a-ud3 works well with the FX6300 I ordered her. It seemed to throttle my fx8320 no matter what. I'm thinking with the lower power demands, it should line up much better with a 6300, which was the CPU I intended to get when I first picked that board out. The FX 8320 just happened to be on sale for $145 the day I went to buy the CPU, too good to pass up.

If the 970a-ud3 does throttle the FX6300, I'm thinking I might order a sabertooth for myself, and just put this 990fxa-ud5 in her system. Though, that would be a massive pain in the butt. Also, I really don't want to spend much more money on anything supporting AM3+ right now, since it isn't fresh you know. Still, if I end up having to replace that 970, I might as well make it count.

Damned if that 780 hadn't whacked out on me, I'd have her system complete this week.


----------



## M3TAl

Paying for postage to their RMA department is standard procedure for basically any RMA for any company, unless it's a special circumstance. They pay to ship it back to you.

You can probably ask for an Advanced/cross ship RMA. You basically put a deposit on a credit card for the value of the GPU and they send you a new GPU while you keep the faulty one. You get the money back once they receive the faulty card.

So it was definitely the 780 causing problems??? What exactly is wrong with it?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Paying for postage to their RMA department is standard procedure for basically any RMA for any company, unless it's a special circumstance. They pay to ship it back to you.
> 
> You can probably ask for an Advanced/cross ship RMA. You basically put a deposit on a credit card for the value of the GPU and they send you a new GPU while you keep the faulty one. You get the money back once they receive the faulty card.
> 
> So it was definitely the 780 causing problems??? What exactly is wrong with it?


Yea, it was more of the $10 processing fee that feels like salt in the wound. I'm willing to bet most do it, still.

My computer would reset/freeze. It happened sometimes gaming, and other times idle. It was random, though, some games brought it out more than others. Some I could play fine though, at least they didn't seem to crash.

Also, my card handled heaven, furmark, and all of the other things I tried. I attempted all kinds of things, from different OC settings, adjusting ram, shoot I even changed out that power strip. In the end, I kept getting the problem. Finally I accepted that it is most likely the GPU, and replaced the 780 with my 7850. Since than I've had no problems.

Also, there were little things, my Directx gave me issues a few times, when the 780 was in my system, my windows gadgets wouldn't load half of the time, I'd have to stop, and restart sidebar.exe. None of this is an issue now that I've removed that GPU. Hell, my system has been up and running (sleeping at night), since removing that GPU.

The sad part is, given half the chance, I'd trade this out for a AMD card in a second (I'm not trading my 780, need warranty). I really have not had a good experience with this card, from drivers, to the issue with shadowplay, now this, this thing has been trouble.

I knew I was going overkill getting this thing, I just couldn't resist with the GPU pricing all wonky now. Next time, I'll stick in the range of the 280x/770. Though for now, I'm kind of stuck with it, since I'm not going down in card, and I don't need more.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, it was more of the $10 processing fee that feels like salt in the wound. I'm willing to bet most do it, still.
> 
> My computer would reset/freeze. It happened sometimes gaming, and other times idle. It was random, though, some games brought it out more than others. Some I could play fine though, at least they didn't seem to crash.
> 
> Also, my card handled heaven, furmark, and all of the other things I tried. I attempted all kinds of things, from different OC settings, adjusting ram, shoot I even changed out that power strip. In the end, I kept getting the problem. Finally I accepted that it is most likely the GPU, and replaced the 780 with my 7850. Since than I've had no problems.
> 
> Also, there were little things, my Directx gave me issues a few times, when the 780 was in my system, my windows gadgets wouldn't load half of the time, I'd have to stop, and restart sidebar.exe. None of this is an issue now that I've removed that GPU. Hell, my system has been up and running (sleeping at night), since removing that GPU.
> 
> The sad part is, given half the chance, I'd trade this out for a AMD card in a second (I'm not trading my 780, need warranty). I really have not had a good experience with this card, from drivers, to the issue with shadowplay, now this, this thing has been trouble.
> 
> I knew I was going overkill getting this thing, I just couldn't resist with the GPU pricing all wonky now. Next time, I'll stick in the range of the 280x/770. Though for now, I'm kind of stuck with it, since I'm not going down in card, and I don't need more.


did you ever "clean" the AMD driver from your old card before installing the 780?

That will almost always cause problems like that.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> did you ever "clean" the AMD driver from your old card before installing the 780?
> 
> That will almost always cause problems like that.


Yea, I did a full OS reinstall. In a matter of fact, I've reinstalled the OS 2 times messing with things in the last 2 weeks or so.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I did a full OS reinstall. In a matter of fact, I've reinstalled the OS 2 times messing with things in the last 2 weeks or so.


yeah, that's a buggy card then... sorry you've had these troubles.

So you are RMA'ing the card now though?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> yeah, that's a buggy card then... sorry you've had these troubles.
> 
> So you are RMA'ing the card now though?


Yea, basically, they're sending me another card, and than I send them this card.

I don't expect the card they're sending me to ship out until Monday though. Weekends really mess these things up.

I'm just lucky I had this 7850 still sitting around. After I put it in my ol'ladys system, I'm thinking about getting something like a 7770, to keep around as a backup/test card.


----------



## M3TAl

I've got a 5770 you could buy







. Think it's voltage unlocked too lol.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've got a 5770 you could buy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Think it's voltage unlocked too lol.


Lol, I'm good.


----------



## istudy92

I still

Have not attempted to mod my VRM on UD 3 rev 3 lol
I got 8320 and have it OC at 4.4 .150 + voltage i find that the sweet spot.
And only reason im able to do this, is because I have azzara 2000 hurricane case which has two 180 or 240 dont know which that blows into those VRMs on the HAF 912 highest I own ould be able to go is 4.2 quite sad.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Hey could be worse. My 8320 needed ~1.6V for 4.6 GHz. This 8350 is currently at 4.95 GHz ~1.5V idle ~1.55V max load. Cinebenched it up to 5.4 GHz, low ambient of course.
> 
> Board shutting off at 1.6... Just sad. Maybe I'll try MSI in the future.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> I still
> 
> Have not attempted to mod my VRM on UD 3 rev 3 lol
> I got 8320 and have it OC at 4.4 .150 + voltage i find that the sweet spot.
> And only reason im able to do this, is because I have azzara 2000 hurricane case which has two 180 or 240 dont know which that blows into those VRMs on the HAF 912 highest I own ould be able to go is 4.2 quite sad.


I've been able to get my 8320 all the way up to 4.6 (freezing outside, open window, 2 hour stress test stable), but, I found that 4.4, for me seems to be the "sweet spot". I generate less heat, and, it just seems to run the best.

To be honest, I had thought my 8320 was a poor overclocker, but, after reading others posts, being able to hit 4.4 @ 1.416V isn't that bad. Going up though, and I have to start adding more, and more voltage. 4.5 would require something like 1.466V, and 4.6, 1.516V (off of memory, something like that).

Ummm. I'm on the UD5 rev 3 w/H100i cooler. Haven't modified my VRM, since I want to keep warranty.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> To be honest, I had thought my 8320 was a poor overclocker, but, after reading others posts, being able to hit 4.4 @ 1.416V isn't that bad.


No, not bad at all... mine needs a lot +v more to do 4400mhz









Also at the higher clockrate it seemed more likely to do the type Issues MadGoat has been been dealing with. Maybe that part is just my imagination.


----------



## Chargeit

OK, follow me here, because I'm sure this will make more sense typing it, than it does reading it.

I recently had issues with system reset/freeze, I tried everything to fix it, it ended up being my GPU. RMA time.

One of the things I did was adjust my "NB core" manually instead of auto.

OK, before, I was able to get stable for 4 hours at 4.5 by adding 0.025v to my current OC. Since adjusting my NB, I failed after 1 hour 15 min when just adding 0.025v, and going to 4.5. I now assume that I require 0.050V for 4.5. I could be wrong, and I simply needed more NB voltage?

Before, I was able to get stable at 4.6, by adding 0.075 to my current OC. I haven't tired with the current "NB" adjustments. But, I do know that I now need +0.050v just to move from 4.4 to 4.5.

So, I'm thinking about going back in, and just setting my NB back to auto, since it seemed to handle the required voltage well enough. I guess I could go and add more NB voltage, but, I'm worried about manually adding too much.

I'm not going to do this today, since I don't want to spend hours stress testing, but, what do you think. Go back in and set "NB auto", since it handled it well, or, go back in, and add more voltage to my NB? I really don't want to deal with frying my mobo though.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> OK, follow me here, because I'm sure this will make more sense typing it, than it does reading it.
> 
> I recently had issues with system reset/freeze, I tried everything to fix it, it ended up being my GPU. RMA time.
> 
> One of the things I did was adjust my "NB core" manually instead of auto.
> 
> OK, before, I was able to get stable for 4 hours at 4.5 by adding 0.025v to my current OC. Since adjusting my NB, I failed after 1 hour 15 min when just adding 0.025v, and going to 4.5. I now assume that I require 0.050V for 4.5. I could be wrong, and I simply needed more NB voltage?
> 
> Before, I was able to get stable at 4.6, by adding 0.075 to my current OC. I haven't tired with the current "NB" adjustments. But, I do know that I now need +0.050v just to move from 4.4 to 4.5.
> 
> So, I'm thinking about going back in, and just setting my NB back to auto, since it seemed to handle the required voltage well enough. I guess I could go and add more NB voltage, but, I'm worried about manually adding too much.
> 
> I'm not going to do this today, since I don't want to spend hours stress testing, but, what do you think. Go back in and set "NB auto", since it handled it well, or, go back in, and add more voltage to my NB? I really don't want to deal with frying my mobo though.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I've been able to get my 8320 all the way up to 4.6 (freezing outside, open window, 2 hour stress test stable), but, I found that 4.4, for me seems to be the "sweet spot". I generate less heat, and, it just seems to run the best.
> 
> To be honest, I had thought my 8320 was a poor overclocker, but, after reading others posts, being able to hit 4.4 @ 1.416V isn't that bad. Going up though, and I have to start adding more, and more voltage. 4.5 would require something like 1.466V, and 4.6, 1.516V (off of memory, something like that).
> 
> Ummm. I'm on the UD5 rev 3 w/H100i cooler. Haven't modified my VRM, since I want to keep warranty.


Well technically you could attempt to fry mobo and there is no way for company to know you were messing with it (someone correct me if I am wrong)
And in turn get yourself a Rev 4, (I think someone on the forum received a rev 4 not sure on that ether? or was it set that someone should test out this hypothesis haha) I have always left mine at auto. I play around with bus clocks and multiplier. So mine is at 220 with 19 or 20 multiplier to get 4.4 at +.150V @.125 it will crash.

I have a h100i as well, I guess we are on same boat except you have the UD5.
After 4.4 I have not attempted to do so BECAUSE I was happy with the results, however when I get a chance I will up it up but..for now my ssd is dead..and need to wait for the RMA to come in sigh.


----------



## Chargeit

I don't think they have rev 4 UD5. Even if they did, I'm not unhappy with the mobo. It handles itself fine from what I can tell.

I just think that I need to go back and set my NB to auto, or, add more to the NB voltage to hit 4.5. I'm thinking that before, the board was auto setting my nb, to the needed levels. That must be the reason I was able to get stable at 4.5 with just a slight increase of voltage before.

I know I'm in the process of RMA'ing my GPU, and never want to have to go through it again. I mean, there are lots of costs, both time, and money which a lot of people seem to forget about when talking about returning a item.

I might give it another go here soon. Once again, my system seemed to be easier to get stable if I just left the NB up to the mobo to control. I'll check it out.


----------



## M3TAl

Messing with CPU-NB is fine. Never once heard of a board's death from messing with it. The only thing that will die/degrade from that is the CPU. Your not even close to the CPU-NB voltage limit yet. I've had +0.15V on 8320 and 8350. They're both still kicking.

Sometimes adding voltage to CPU-NB helps sometimes it doesn't... These chips take a lot of tinkering with. Maybe it needs more vcore maybe it doesn't.

Some people like to be able to pass stress tests for hours on end... I'm not one of those people. Still yet to ever have one crash, freeze, corruption, or anything like that while running OC's that either barely fail quick stress test or fail after 20-30 minutes. These chips do not behave like Deneb at all in the stability department, at least not in my experience. When my Deneb would fail a stress test it would always fail in gaming. Has been the complete opposite experience with Vishera.

I don't do anything more stressful than gaming really. Sometimes on rare occasions some audio encoding that gets CPU to 80-100%. YMMV but still even on an 8320 at 4.6 GHz that would fail IBT in 2-3 passes never had a single problem for months. Push clock higher and yes the thing would start freezing and BSoD'in like crazy.


----------



## Mega Man

more then anything keep temps down, i have pushed scary volts through it and it is fine. i keep mine @ 1.25 24/7 fyi


----------



## M3TAl

I've pushed 1.7V+ but this was with a 4.44C ambient lol... Max temp in Cinebench run was 52C. VRM temps (as per my sensor taped to back of board) were fine too. Think it hit like 65C.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I'll mess with it some more. Mine seemed to work fine off of simply messing with multiplier / voltage.

I've just noticed that if I keep my OC stable (2 - 4 hours seems to work well), than I end up with a much smoother gaming experience. What I'll do, is 2 hours while I'm getting my stability figured out, and than at least 4 once I've settled on settings.

That whole GPU issue just had me 2nd guessing my settings, but, now that I know my OC wasn't the issue, it's time to get back on track I'd say.

**I'm giving it a go at 4.5 @ 1.440V, NB set to auto. This failed last time, when I had my NB manually set, but was stable in the past when NB was set to auto. I'm curious to see what happens. Maybe I got lucky on that one run, or, maybe as age kicks in, it needs more and more to be stable.

I really don't want to stress test, and would move back to 4.4,but, I've got to see how this ends up.









***Yea, there is no way in hell. I've watch one of my cores drop to 0.000V, yet it's still running. Clearly, it will fail sooner or later at this voltage. I'm guessing, it just barely chugged a long at this setting, and I was very lucky to get 2 hours in. Also, when I did the tests before, I wasn't using HWiNFO64, so I wasn't able to see those readings. Now, looking at it, I know it will fail, sooner or later.


----------



## timmeh04

Hello,

I'm new to the boards (as a member - I've lurked around this thread for a year now), and after having my H80i explode in my case while I was out/having to get replacement parts, I'm in a bit of a pickle and am not sure how to resolve it. Naturally, I've come to this thread and hope that someone can shine some light on my issue. So, without further adieu:

I think my new 990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0) isn't getting along with my Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 60GB SSD. I can't be 100% certain because I have no pre-replacement benchmarks, but it seems as though my SSD is crawling slower than my HDD. This is based on my most recent experience with Windows 7 installation versus what I remember on my first Windows 7 SSD install...it took about 10-15x longer than I remember.

I've attached some information for your review. If additional information is required - or I'm insane and it's running fine - let me know and I'll gladly hook it up.

Pre H80i explosion system:

GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 1.1
AMD FX 8350
nVidia GTX 480
8 GB Mushkin Redline RAM (2x4GB)
Mushkin 60 GB Chronos Deluxe MLC SSD
1 TB Seagate HDD
550 Watt Rosewill Platinum Plus PSU

Post (current) system:

GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0
The same AMD FX 8350
nVidia GTX 760
8 GB Ripjaw Sniper Series RAM (2x4GB)
The same Mushkin 60 GB SSD
The same 1 TB Seagate HDD
550 Watt Rosewill Platinum Plus PSU

- I am running Windows 7 64 bit, freshly installed, fully updated
- I have checked everything for updated drivers (and ran IObit Driver Booster as a double check)
- I checked in my BIOS to make sure I'm in ACHI
- My HDD is currently not installed because I didn't want Windows to put the extra partition on it during the install

Pictures:





So there it is. I've been reading this thread for some time and have seen answers to just about every question I've had to date, so I'm hoping I can get lucky one more time. You guys really seem to know your stuff, and so I appreciate any help you can provide.

Thank you in advance!


----------



## Alxz

Is anyone willing to sell a EK-FB GA AMD KIT blocks? i can't seem to find them anywhere ;(


----------



## M3TAl

Nope. Got one of the last ones on the planet for 50% discount from PPCS not too long ago. Might sell them when I get rid of this board but that won't be anytime soon.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timmeh04*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm new to the boards (as a member - I've lurked around this thread for a year now), and after having my H80i explode in my case while I was out/having to get replacement parts, I'm in a bit of a pickle and am not sure how to resolve it. Naturally, I've come to this thread and hope that someone can shine some light on my issue. So, without further adieu:
> 
> I think my new 990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0) isn't getting along with my Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 60GB SSD. I can't be 100% certain because I have no pre-replacement benchmarks, but it seems as though my SSD is crawling slower than my HDD. This is based on my most recent experience with Windows 7 installation versus what I remember on my first Windows 7 SSD install...it took about 10-15x longer than I remember.
> 
> I've attached some information for your review. If additional information is required - or I'm insane and it's running fine - let me know and I'll gladly hook it up.
> 
> Pre H80i explosion system:
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 1.1
> AMD FX 8350
> nVidia GTX 480
> 8 GB Mushkin Redline RAM (2x4GB)
> Mushkin 60 GB Chronos Deluxe MLC SSD
> 1 TB Seagate HDD
> 550 Watt Rosewill Platinum Plus PSU
> 
> Post (current) system:
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0
> The same AMD FX 8350
> nVidia GTX 760
> 8 GB Ripjaw Sniper Series RAM (2x4GB)
> The same Mushkin 60 GB SSD
> The same 1 TB Seagate HDD
> 550 Watt Rosewill Platinum Plus PSU
> 
> - I am running Windows 7 64 bit, freshly installed, fully updated
> - I have checked everything for updated drivers (and ran IObit Driver Booster as a double check)
> - I checked in my BIOS to make sure I'm in ACHI
> - My HDD is currently not installed because I didn't want Windows to put the extra partition on it during the install
> 
> Pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there it is. I've been reading this thread for some time and have seen answers to just about every question I've had to date, so I'm hoping I can get lucky one more time. You guys really seem to know your stuff, and so I appreciate any help you can provide.
> 
> Thank you in advance!


did you erase the drive, I mean secure erase , if you have left over windows or drivers are consuming the drive I have experienced that a near full drive runs really slow, just saying


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Is anyone willing to sell a EK-FB GA AMD KIT blocks? i can't seem to find them anywhere ;(


http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekgaamdkitac.html
is that the one I have looked as well only one I could find was right from EK for my UD-7


----------



## M3TAl

You can't find them because EK stopped making them quite some time ago. They're technically for 700 series boards not 900 series, the NB and Mosfet blocks just happen to fit the 900 series.

If any store does still have them it's old stock. PPCS happened to have them in stock for $90+ ~2 months ago but I contacted the hardware rep here on OCN and got them to put in on clearance for 50% off. They were out of stock soon after that.

All I can recommend is posting a wanted add for them on OCN and other forums and keep looking at eBay. There have to be people out there that used them on 700 series boards.


----------



## Alxz

I know its an EOL product







but yeah, i'll try to hunt those blocks here and probably ebay, i'll place a wanted add here by now :> thanks! (if anyone here is still interested pm me pls)


----------



## Mega Man

idk who started this EOL product stuff but ... it isnt

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel-1.html

they tell you if it is EOL on the site if it is, its not and it is in stock not alotta ppl buy them so not alotta ppl stocked them

** edit i thought he was talking about ud7 meh bad !~


----------



## timmeh04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> did you erase the drive, I mean secure erase , if you have left over windows or drivers are consuming the drive I have experienced that a near full drive runs really slow, just saying


I'm not entirely sure what secure erase is, but I did delete the partition and format the new one before installing Windows again. Is that not adequate?


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timmeh04*
> 
> I'm not entirely sure what secure erase is, but I did delete the partition and format the new one before installing Windows again. Is that not adequate?


SSD's are not reformat friendly from what I gather they can be ruined by deleting or reformatting so I'm told I only use the OCZ drives so I can not be specific on the model you have if you check the section on the forum for this there may already be a thread, that's where I found out about secure erase. which is a tool/software( OCZ toolbox utility), for cleaning the drives I have.


----------



## Chargeit

*Still haven't received so much as a reply to my fax about RMA'ing that GPU though Asus... I've been getting the run around from customer service, and basically dealing with them is a freaking nightmare.

I pulled that hd 7850 out of my rig, and put it in my ol'ladys computer. WHich I'm now done building. But, my gaming rig currently has no GPU. It also doesn't look like this RMA is happening anytime soon, since Asus is like dealing with the mob.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timmeh04*
> 
> I think my new 990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0) isn't getting along with my Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 60GB SSD. I can't be 100% certain because I have no pre-replacement benchmarks, but it seems as though my SSD is crawling slower than my HDD. This is based on my most recent experience with Windows 7 installation versus what I remember on my first Windows 7 SSD install...it took about 10-15x longer than I remember.


I'm not familiar with that disk benchmark. It might be OK, but some don't work right with SSD.

I would suggest this one:

http://www.techpowerup.com/downloads/1749/atto-disk-benchmark-v2-46/

I had a Crucial M4 and it had an bug the firmware that caused it to reboot every 2 hours after the first 5000 of total operation.

Anyway, to make a long story short, after fixing the firmware, as a final step, they recommended that I leave the drive attached to a computer (and powered up) but not mounted for 48 hours because after being idle and unused for 2 hours it would start the garbage collection process.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timmeh04*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm new to the boards (as a member - I've lurked around this thread for a year now), and after having my H80i explode in my case while I was out/having to get replacement parts, I'm in a bit of a pickle and am not sure how to resolve it. Naturally, I've come to this thread and hope that someone can shine some light on my issue. So, without further adieu:
> 
> I think my new 990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0) isn't getting along with my Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 60GB SSD. I can't be 100% certain because I have no pre-replacement benchmarks, but it seems as though my SSD is crawling slower than my HDD. This is based on my most recent experience with Windows 7 installation versus what I remember on my first Windows 7 SSD install...it took about 10-15x longer than I remember.
> 
> I've attached some information for your review. If additional information is required - or I'm insane and it's running fine - let me know and I'll gladly hook it up.
> 
> Pre H80i explosion system:
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 1.1
> AMD FX 8350
> nVidia GTX 480
> 8 GB Mushkin Redline RAM (2x4GB)
> Mushkin 60 GB Chronos Deluxe MLC SSD
> 1 TB Seagate HDD
> 550 Watt Rosewill Platinum Plus PSU
> 
> Post (current) system:
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0
> The same AMD FX 8350
> nVidia GTX 760
> 8 GB Ripjaw Sniper Series RAM (2x4GB)
> The same Mushkin 60 GB SSD
> The same 1 TB Seagate HDD
> 550 Watt Rosewill Platinum Plus PSU
> 
> - I am running Windows 7 64 bit, freshly installed, fully updated
> - I have checked everything for updated drivers (and ran IObit Driver Booster as a double check)
> - I checked in my BIOS to make sure I'm in ACHI
> - My HDD is currently not installed because I didn't want Windows to put the extra partition on it during the install
> 
> Pictures:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there it is. I've been reading this thread for some time and have seen answers to just about every question I've had to date, so I'm hoping I can get lucky one more time. You guys really seem to know your stuff, and so I appreciate any help you can provide.
> 
> Thank you in advance!


Buying SSDs is not an easy task as most think. There are things you should consider before buying one.
1. Controller - Sandforce, or whatever there is, is a major factor in speed / performance of SSDs.
2. Capacity - Unlike Hard Drives that the only thing to consider is the rotational speed, 10000 RPM drives always outperform 7200RPM ones, SSD performance is also dependent on their size. Why?, let's consider 120 vs. 240 GB drives, say for example, a chip on your SSD can be accessed at X1 speed. Multiply that by the number of chips available and you'll get your actual access speeds. In essence, assuming the same chips were used, which most manufacturers / brands do, say 120 GB SSD have X1 number of chips, 240 GB would have X2 right? so the speed would be X2 right? (This is really not an actual explanation since I'm not that expert and would not read about or look for a material to point you out into while explaining this but the essence you will get from browsing the web would be the same)

An example for this is my 120 GB Crucial M500 which has a write speeds slower than my Caviar Blue. 240 GB models, on the contrary, has twice the write speeds I can get even though they are using the same controller and same internals. They just differ in what I call Chips inside.
Another is the fact that the best performing SSDs you could buy right now were the bigger capacity ones. Here.

Since you mentioned, you noticed the Windows installation took longer installing on your SSD than your HDD, that would at least make my 2nd point valid.









I am not sure what's inside of the OCZ drives but I am sure a 120 GB version of yours would always outperform your 60 GB, and the 240 GB version will automatically leave you into dust.

Intel 335 for another example, though belonging on the same series and probably same internals differ in performance with capacity sizes. 120 GB < 240 GB < 480 GB.

That's why I wouldn't recommend buying an SSD lower than 120 GB for a starter.









By the way, Write speeds will always be the ones to suffer on smaller drives. So before making a purchase, check on the benchmarks and reviews per sizes. Not on how a certain Make / Series performs.


----------



## Chargeit

I'm in the process of OC'ing my ol'ladys FX 6300.

I started at 4.2 1.356V. So far, it's holding well. Multiplier's holding, and the voltage is tight enough (1.332 - 1.356V). I'm currently 40 min in. I'm not really expecting it to keep at the current voltage, though, maybe.

I set the LLC to regular, since there are only 3 options on this board, "regular", "Auto", and "Extreme". Regular is holding up fine right now.

This 970-ud3 rev 3 seems to be handling this fx6300 much better than my 8320. Of course, when I got the board, I had planned on getting a fx6300.

I'm going to try to get a 2 hour run in for stability test. If I can get that, I'll call it good for now, and start downloading her game (Dungeons & Dragons online).

So, I've got 2 goals here, get her a quick 2 hour stable OC, and, set her mmo up for download.

Oh, yea, I pulled that 7850 out of my computer, and I also pulled my ram. I hadn't bought ram yet, because I didn't plan on putting the computer together until after I get my 780 back. However, after putting most of the system together, I wasn't comfortable with letting that AS5 sit up for a week or so.

Now, cool thing about the ram, she's cool with just keeping that... 16gb 1866 time for me! I just can't order it until Friday, and, I'm still lost in Asus's RMA process, so, no clue. I might be lucky to have my rig back up in 2 weeks.

***I was stoked about getting 16gb ram, until I just realized that f'ing ram is going up more. These damned prices are insane. I'll do what I have to do, but, this is just crazy. 16gb of what I'm looking for starts at 160ish, and quickly jumps up. These damned vendors are spiking the hell out of the prices.


----------



## hagtek

Samsung 840 Evo - $83 @ amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W15P0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> Samsung 840 Evo - $83 @ amazon:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E3W15P0/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Very good deal for the price!!!

On a side note, here's what I mean with Performance vs. Size.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in the process of OC'ing my ol'ladys FX 6300.
> 
> I started at 4.2 1.356V. So far, it's holding well. Multiplier's holding, and the voltage is tight enough (1.332 - 1.356V). I'm currently 40 min in. I'm not really expecting it to keep at the current voltage, though, maybe.
> 
> I set the LLC to regular, since there are only 3 options on this board, "regular", "Auto", and "Extreme". Regular is holding up fine right now.
> 
> This 970-ud3 rev 3 seems to be handling this fx6300 much better than my 8320. Of course, when I got the board, I had planned on getting a fx6300.
> 
> I'm going to try to get a 2 hour run in for stability test. If I can get that, I'll call it good for now, and start downloading her game (Dungeons & Dragons online).
> 
> So, I've got 2 goals here, get her a quick 2 hour stable OC, and, set her mmo up for download.
> 
> Oh, yea, I pulled that 7850 out of my computer, and I also pulled my ram. I hadn't bought ram yet, because I didn't plan on putting the computer together until after I get my 780 back. However, after putting most of the system together, I wasn't comfortable with letting that AS5 sit up for a week or so.
> 
> Now, cool thing about the ram, she's cool with just keeping that... 16gb 1866 time for me! I just can't order it until Friday, and, I'm still lost in Asus's RMA process, so, no clue. I might be lucky to have my rig back up in 2 weeks.
> 
> ***I was stoked about getting 16gb ram, until I just realized that f'ing ram is going up more. These damned prices are insane. I'll do what I have to do, but, this is just crazy. 16gb of what I'm looking for starts at 160ish, and quickly jumps up. These damned vendors are spiking the hell out of the prices.


Just FYI if you're going 4 sticks it can require more voltage on the CPU-NB for stability. I can run my CPU-NB at 2475 MHz +.075V with 8GB 2 sticks. With 16GB 4 sticks it needs +0.125-0.150V.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Just FYI if you're going 4 sticks it can require more voltage on the CPU-NB for stability. I can run my CPU-NB at 2475 MHz +.075V with 8GB 2 sticks. With 16GB 4 sticks it needs +0.125-0.150V.


I was just going to get 2 x 8 for 1866. I've read that 4 sticks won't hit 1866 with these CPU (or won't always).

Thanks for that info though, could prove useful later.

I"m about 2 hours in on that fx6300. One of the CPU's dropped to 83% usage for a second about 30 min ago. I thought it was about to fail than. Still kicking, though, I take that drop as proving sooner or later it will fail. Honestly, I didn't expect this voltage to go as long as it has. Still, assuming I make it past 2 hours and 10 min, I'm going to call it stable for the night, and start dling that game.

Oh, and temps seem really good. 40c max atm, but, the voltage is really low, so no surprise there.

One thing I noticed, the NB heatsink feels loose. I don't have enough thermal pad to do anything about it right now. However, the NB has maxed at 42c, and likes 40c. Doesn't seem too bad. I think I'm used to more like 47c - 50c on mine (something like that).


----------



## Chargeit

I sent amazon a email about my GPU issue, and the fact it has been 8 days dealing with Asus, without getting much infromation, and this is what they sent me about 1 hour later...

_Hello,

I'm so sorry to hear that the item "ASUS Direct CU II Thermal Design with Direct-GPU Contact 10mm Copper Heat Pipe Graphics Card" has gone defective.

I can completely understand how frustrating and annoying the situation can be when something like this happens but believe us it was never our intention. We try our level best to provide convenient and stress free shopping to our customers but in this case we haven't met the standard. Please accept my sincere apologies for this.

I've forwarded your message to appropriate department and I'll make sure the appropriate people in our company see your message, as I know they'll want to read about your experience, so that this will not happen again in your future orders.

To help you with this, I've created a new replacement order for you at no charge. Here are the details:_

Now that's customer service. Freaking next day delivery. Amazon just won my loyalty.


----------



## hagtek

I've always had great service from amazon.com, always.

Whether lost, stolen, damaged or defective, they always seem to take care of their customers.

If it's inside of their 30 day return/refund period they'll do just about anything to make you happy.

Can't always say the same for other online retailers.

I rarely use others because of this.


----------



## metallives

I have a gigabyte 990fxa-ud7 rev3.0 motherboard with 32 gigs of corsair dominator ram, a amd 9590 processor, with two radeon hd 7970s in crossfire. I just installed a water cooling system and now none of the USB ports work and I get error code 92 when they are plugged in the back and error code 9c when using the front USB plug ins. Someone please help me to understand these errors
Also it will boot to the bios screen but Since none of the usbs work I cannot do anything with the keyboard or mouse
Please help


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> I've always had great service from amazon.com, always.
> 
> Whether lost, stolen, damaged or defective, they always seem to take care of their customers.
> 
> If it's inside of their 30 day return/refund period they'll do just about anything to make you happy.
> 
> Can't always say the same for other online retailers.
> 
> I rarely use others because of this.


Yea same.

It was outside of the 30 day return window. I bought the card on 12/13/2013. I had it for less than 2 months, and it started giving me issues.

I started the RMA process with Asus, and was basically given the run around.

So, being that it's been 8 days of dealing with them, I sent a email about it to Amazon. They responded quickly, and now, the problem is resolved.

I was expecting to get something like, "We're sorry to hear that, but it's outside of the return/refund window". Instead, they're not only sending me a GPU overnight, but paying for the return of this one. That's customer service.

=D Too bad I put my ram in my ol'ladys system last night. I'll most likely pull one stick, and we'll just both go 4gb, until I get more ram. Will order ram Friday, so, until Tuesday or so.

Lesson here, Asus is not fun to deal with, Amazon, is the boss.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metallives*
> 
> I have a gigabyte 990fxa-ud7 rev3.0 motherboard with 32 gigs of corsair dominator ram, a amd 9590 processor, with two radeon hd 7970s in crossfire. I just installed a water cooling system and now none of the USB ports work and I get error code 92 when they are plugged in the back and error code 9c when using the front USB plug ins. Someone please help me to understand these errors
> Also it will boot to the bios screen but Since none of the usbs work I cannot do anything with the keyboard or mouse
> Please help


Read about this

Post code 92 was stated to be an error on detecting the presence of a KEYBOARD. If you plugged in one, make sure it's not on the USB 3.0 ports.
Not sure about your board but USB3.0 ports were usually Blue.

Now, if there are other things plugged into your USB ports, be sure to remove them first. Then reboot Bios. Worse, look for another keyboard you can use.

If that fails as well, request for an RMA as I see no point in continuing unless you can get into Windows to update your BIOS.


----------



## Chargeit

Has anyone had this issue. I'm pretty sure it's something at the bios level.

My ol'ladys system is running great, but, the only issue it's having is, when I attempt to shut it off though windows, it shuts down windows, and than just basically sits there running. When I restart the system, it logs into windows normally, so I know windows is properly shutting down, it's just the mobo isn't turning the computer off I guess? If I do a restart from windows there is no problem, it does that fine.

I'm using my old 970a-ud3. I didn't have this issue before, so, it has to be something that I'm now changing in bios, or, I just don't know. It seems like it should be a easy enough problem to fix however.

The only thing I've tired so far is to disable 'turbo", which I only have running to avoid double booting. This did nothing, and I re-enabled it.

I know this board doesn't fall into this owners forum, but, figured I'd start here.

*Also, the dvd player isn't picking up, though it's powered. I have to go back in to the computer, another time or two, so, I'll make sure the Sata cable is correctly hooked up before I get worried about that.

**As far as function goes, the computer is running great, her game runs extremely smooth on it, and she's loving it. Also, I've noticed where that hybrid starts speeding up over time. I was going to try for a 4.4 OC, but, at 4.2, it's running very cool, and her game runs great. No reason to give it more power. It really makes me wonder what OC I could get out of a 6300 with my H100i.


----------



## metallives

ok i have the error code 92 code fixed now im reading error code A2
what is this about?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Has anyone had this issue. I'm pretty sure it's something at the bios level.
> 
> My ol'ladys system is running great, but, the only issue it's having is, when I attempt to shut it off though windows, it shuts down windows, and than just basically sits there running. When I restart the system, it logs into windows normally, so I know windows is properly shutting down, it's just the mobo isn't turning the computer off I guess? If I do a restart from windows there is no problem, it does that fine.
> 
> I'm using my old 970a-ud3. I didn't have this issue before, so, it has to be something that I'm now changing in bios, or, I just don't know. It seems like it should be a easy enough problem to fix however.
> 
> The only thing I've tired so far is to disable 'turbo", which I only have running to avoid double booting. This did nothing, and I re-enabled it.
> 
> I know this board doesn't fall into this owners forum, but, figured I'd start here.
> 
> *Also, the dvd player isn't picking up, though it's powered. I have to go back in to the computer, another time or two, so, I'll make sure the Sata cable is correctly hooked up before I get worried about that.
> 
> **As far as function goes, the computer is running great, her game runs extremely smooth on it, and she's loving it. Also, I've noticed where that hybrid starts speeding up over time. I was going to try for a 4.4 OC, but, at 4.2, it's running very cool, and her game runs great. No reason to give it more power. It really makes me wonder what OC I could get out of a 6300 with my H100i.


Your saying when you shutdown the fans and things still run? Buddy of mine in New Zealand just had a similar problem. For him it was the PSU. Don't remember what the other symptoms were, I'll have to ask him.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Your saying when you shutdown the fans and things still run? Buddy of mine in New Zealand just had a similar problem. For him it was the PSU. Don't remember what the other symptoms were, I'll have to ask him.


Yea, if you select shutdown from windows, windows fully closes, but the fans/led light keep running.

See what he says. If the PSU is the problem, I guess I'll have to replace it. It's odd that I didn't have this issue with it before though.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, if you select shutdown from windows, windows fully closes, but the fans/led light keep running.
> 
> See what he says. If the PSU is the problem, I guess I'll have to replace it. It's odd that I didn't have this issue with it before though.


this is exactly what my board has developed. To avoid it I have to turn off turbo core. But now it double boots...

Don't know how or what the problem is, and its not windows... it will do it with reboots too... even when saving and exiting the bios. It will just hang there with everything running... just dead to the world.

Oh, and the last time it booted right with turbo core set to my OC and everything was a boot into memtest86+ on a usb stick via the F12 boot menu...

Hit esc to reboot after it ran for a couple hours... and POOF!... post hang. Moody ever since...


----------



## MadGoat

OMG!

I just found something!

I don't know which one did it... but I was thinking to myself... "what else did I do that day"... and It dawned on me that I plugged in a external esata drive and web cam!

I just unplugged them, and booted to bios and re-enabled turbo with My OC multi and no double boot!

I know I'm overly excited... but it's the little things that just EAT at me...

Added:

I.
I..
I...
I....

lolol...


----------



## Chargeit

I'll have to mess with it some more. For now, it isn't a huge problem, though, I don't like just letting issues sit, since everything has a cause.

On another note, So, I'm about to get taken in the rear, without being bought so much as a big mac at McDonald's... I'm about to buy 16gb of ram.

I'm looking around, and Newegg has a good deal on some G.Skill sniper, 16gb 1866 for $145. Now, this isn't too bad, but, that means I'll get the ram Tuesday - Wednesday. Which sucks. I got my replacement 780 in today (thanks to Amazon, not Asus), and don't have ram, since I put it in my ol'ladys rig. SO, I'm looking at spending more, to get the ram one day shipped by Amazon, so that I'll get it Saturday (I'm going to get it prison style on this one).

OK, assuming my cheap factor doesn't kick in, and I order though Amazon + 1 day shipping (will take a free month of prime to make it $10), I'm trying to figure out what to get. I looked around, and the ram that seems to have the least mark up, compared to Newegg is the AMD ram. I'm curious, has anyone heard if this is good ram? I mean, I'm looking at spending like $200 (The cheapskate in me wants to cry) on the crap with the overnight, so, I want it to at least be solid.

Here are the two rams I'm looking at.

G.Skill
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231627

AMD
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FB7QTGQ/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=

I really hate coming out of pocket $200 for ram, but, I really, really, damned really want to get my system back up. I'm fiending here.


----------



## M3TAl

If you can find out what IC the AMD memory uses that will tell you what they're capable of for the most part. There's a lot of memory out there from different manufacturers all using the exact same IC's.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you can find out what IC the AMD memory uses that will tell you what they're capable of for the most part. There's a lot of memory out there from different manufacturers all using the exact same IC's.


I'm looking around, though I've seen it called "rebranded Patriot ram". Patriot is good ram isn't it?

I won't be OC'ing the ram, I'd just use the preset profile. I did OC my old ram to 1866, but the benchmark didn't improve (Very little)


----------



## simsim44

I have the AMD ram " I like it " which doesn't mean much, I sound like a noob but what is "IC" the ram is 1866 I have had it to 2133 ish when I was playing around, I wasn't trying to overclock it, I didn't have any problems with it. I am currently not using it as the OS drive in that rig took a dump. and once I get the drive fixed or replaced I will down load the free ramdisc that came with the ram( some promotional thing I think only at the egg), I have 2 of the 16g kits for a total of 32g, latencies are 11's with a 3T.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I have the AMD ram " I like it " which doesn't mean much, I sound like a noob but what is "IC" the ram is 1866 I have had it to 2133 ish when I was playing around, I wasn't trying to overclock it, I didn't have any problems with it. I am currently not using it as the OS drive in that rig took a dump. and once I get the drive fixed or replaced I will down load the free ramdisc that came with the ram( some promotional thing I think only at the egg), I have 2 of the 16g kits for a total of 32g, latencies are 11's with a 3T.


It's to figure out who makes the ram.

Yea, I'm not that knowledgeable about ram myself.


----------



## hagtek

I just picked up some Crucial Ballistic Tactical 1866MHz 9-9-9-27 from amazon.

This is the first Crucial RAM I've tried. I've got to say out of all the brands I've tried in my AMD rig @ 1866MHz this stuff runs the best with the lowest latency and the fastest read/write/copy times. Much better than the GSkill Sniper RAM it's replacing.

Just for ****s and giggles I ran it at 1600MHz @ 7-7-7-24, don't ask me why! Good latency and benchmarks at those timings but back to 1866.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NFAN94/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Chargeit

How about this?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233281

The heatsink won't be a issue for me, I can get it for 10 bucks cheaper on Amazon, than the AMD ram.

Assuming the price sticks, I think I found my ram. (I'm seeing a lot of complaints about getting bad sticks off of Newegg though... None for the AMD ram)

*I also want to buy through Amazon, for good will, since they took care of me on that GPU. It's nice to have a juicy purchase history when you have issues.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you can find out what IC the AMD memory uses that will tell you what they're capable of for the most part. There's a lot of memory out there from different manufacturers all using the exact same IC's.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you can find out what IC the AMD memory uses that will tell you what they're capable of for the most part. There's a lot of memory out there from different manufacturers all using the exact same IC's.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking around, though I've seen it called "rebranded Patriot ram". Patriot is good ram isn't it?
> 
> I won't be OC'ing the ram, I'd just use the preset profile. I did OC my old ram to 1866, but the benchmark didn't improve (Very little)
Click to expand...

i have heard it used to be but is not now, some OEM only brand ( meaning they dont sell from their own name ) but no confirmation yet, it is hynix chips which is good i just dont like the price, but hey i got 18gb 2400 for 120 so... yea


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have heard it used to be but is not now, some OEM only brand ( meaning they dont sell from their own name ) but no confirmation yet, it is hynix chips which is good i just dont like the price, but hey i got 18gb 2400 for 120 so... yea


Man, the prices are all jacked up right now.

You've got 2400 running with your FX chip? Or did you have to down clock it. I know this 990fxa-ud5 says it can take up to 2000. Though, I'm guessing 1866 is still the accepted speed for running 2 sticks?

**I hate paying these prices, but, I need to have ram, and, if I'm going to get it, I might as well get 16gb now.


----------



## AMEXPAT

I have a new 990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0) (FX8320) being a previous computer shop owner 7 years back I used mostly Gigabyte boards cause they seemed to have a longer life span than others since I put a 3 year warranty on my units and at that time I received great tech support from them. But now? What happened???? Everything I contacted them about this board I receive back very non-technical replies!
First I have these double boot ups, did this on the first boot up I even before I got into the bios, thought at first it was the psu even contacted the company and they were willing to give me a RMA replacement. After others were posting on OC having the same problem saying because of some overclocking feature so I kinda dropped it. Gig should explain that in the manual. So dummies like me don't get excited about it LOL.
Secondly I see people going up on the fsb to 230 even 250 on this board. I've tried all kinds of voltages and settings. It'll boot fine at 230, but as soon as I run Cine on Open GL I get the blue screen memory dump! It'll fail on prime on blend the second it's started. I thought I hit a sweet spot at 210 at 4300 the benches on Cine were very good about the same as 200/4500. But running prime (blend) found my VRM temps went from 50c idle to 82c in seconds monitoring with HWiNFO64! Also my core voltages were going crazy jumping from 1.2v to 1.6v. My ram and cpu is very stable under load in the kids Sabertooth rig I just built, so it's not the ram or cpu with no fsb problems at 230 near 4300 on air that's as far as I went. But not in this board most I get stable is 1600! Gig's reply as to why I couldn't get my ram up to 1866, told me to visit AMD's site to see if AMD's FX8320 processor supported 1866.
The Gig board I can get it up to 4600 on 1.475v and run stable even with prime in-place just so long I don't bump up the fsb, but still have core voltage fluctuations. Even at 201 x 18 the VRM temps jump up into 70s! Cooling is not a problem with the cores, they never ever go over 32c don't matter what I clock it to. I have 720 cfm of air blowing over the mobo. Plus 2 huge rads 300mm x 480mm single and a 220mm x 300mm double. The mobo temps are always around 30c to 32c. The Northbridge will go up to 40c, but I think that's because the VRM/NorthBridge share the same cooler and the heat is being transferred back to the Northbridge via the VRM. Most all the other temps stay around ambient temps, but the VRM even at default settings the VRM is running idle 50c and jumps to 66c under load. The cooler is hot to the touch over the VRM. I think the VRM is bad on this board what do guys feel? Gigabyte replied back saying I should leave the settings at default in this board. Looked all over OC and couldn't find where others were having the same VRM problems on a ver 4. I just don't understand why such a dramatic correlation between the fsb and the VRM on this board.
In my profile pics you'll see I'm using this board. Also the psu is rock solid 12v, 5v and 3.3 never sags under load always a little above. As you can see in the screen shot. I just did this load test at 4400/200fsb using the kids FX8320 and their ram (no seen changes from my stuff) as you see everything is cool, but the VRM is up to 66c I don't think it should get this hot. During this test the core voltages were fluctuating between 1.2v to 1.375v, at idle they went back to 1.375v.
I haven't given up on this board yet cause I might be missing something! I get bored and this board gives me something to play with. If anything this board is definitely entertaining LOL


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> First I have these double boot ups, did this on the first boot up


Leave "Turbo" enabled in bios, just set it for whatever clock speed you're using.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> I just picked up some Crucial Ballistic Tactical 1866MHz 9-9-9-27 from amazon.
> 
> This is the first Crucial RAM I've tried. I've got to say out of all the brands I've tried in my AMD rig @ 1866MHz this stuff runs the best with the lowest latency and the fastest read/write/copy times. Much better than the GSkill Sniper RAM it's replacing.
> 
> Just for ****s and giggles I ran it at 1600MHz @ 7-7-7-24, don't ask me why! Good latency and benchmarks at those timings but back to 1866.
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NFAN94/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


These ballistix are typically pretty good stuff. Mine use Micron D9PFJ IC's and I think my Mushkin do too though I can't 100% confirm without removing the heatsink. These Mushkins score and OC/behave exactly same as my Crucials so I can only assume.

They'll do 1866 8-8-8-24 1T too.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I saw those, but, it's 200 for a 16gb pack before anything else is considered.

Man, I'm really thinking I'll just get the 16gb G.Skill Sniper for $145 from Newegg, I can get that, a 4 pack of Cougar 120mm fans, and the fan filter I need for $20 bucks less than the ram I'm looking at getting on Amazon. It wouldn't get here until Tuesday or so, but, I'd feel like a major tool spending $200 on freaking ram.

Ugh, this sucks. I just wish I had some cheap DDR3 laying around to toss in my system until then. I could plunder a stick out of the rig I built for my ol'lady, but, I really don't want to do that.

These
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231627


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have heard it used to be but is not now, some OEM only brand ( meaning they dont sell from their own name ) but no confirmation yet, it is hynix chips which is good i just dont like the price, but hey i got 18gb 2400 for 120 so... yea
> 
> 
> 
> Man, the prices are all jacked up right now.
> 
> You've got 2400 running with your FX chip? Or did you have to down clock it. I know this 990fxa-ud5 says it can take up to 2000. Though, I'm guessing 1866 is still the accepted speed for running 2 sticks?
> 
> **I hate paying these prices, but, I need to have ram, and, if I'm going to get it, I might as well get 16gb now.
Click to expand...

yes i have it on 2 chips, without issue, it is still overclocking ! max supported is 2x1866 or 4x1600 per amd, but you can oc it

i am going to take this next post apart as i see it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> I have a new 990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0) (FX8320) being a previous computer shop owner 7 years back I used mostly Gigabyte boards cause they seemed to have a longer life span than others since I put a 3 year warranty on my units and at that time I received great tech support from them. But now? What happened???? Everything I contacted them about this board I receive back very non-technical replies!
> First I have these double boot ups, did this on the first boot up I even before I got into the bios, thought at first it was the psu even contacted the company and they were willing to give me a RMA replacement. After others were posting on OC having the same problem saying because of some overclocking feature so I kinda dropped it. Gig should explain that in the manual. So dummies like me don't get excited about it LOL.


pretty easy enable turbo and set it to the same multi as your amin oc, problem d, should we have to .. no but these boards are gigas first attempt at uefi and we getta deal with it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> Secondly I see people going up on the fsb to 230 even 250 on this board. I've tried all kinds of voltages and settings. It'll boot fine at 230, but as soon as I run Cine on Open GL I get the blue screen memory dump! It'll fail on prime on blend the second it's started. I thought I hit a sweet spot at 210 at 4300 the benches on Cine were very good about the same as 200/4500.


i have my UD7 @ 300fsb stable
ALL FX chips have dead spots in FSB and it always differs, and can even differ board to board
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> But running prime (blend) found my VRM temps went from 50c idle to 82c in seconds monitoring with HWiNFO64! Also my core voltages were going crazy jumping from 1.2v to 1.6v. My ram and cpu is very stable under load in the kids Sabertooth rig I just built, so it's not the ram or cpu with no fsb problems at 230 near 4300 on air that's as far as I went. But not in this board most I get stable is 1600! Gig's reply as to why I couldn't get my ram up to 1866, told me to visit AMD's site to see if AMD's FX8320 processor supported 1866.


as to note on your memory are you overvolting it ? giga boards have vdrop on the ram ( i have owned saberkitty, CVFz, and ud7, only one without this problem was the saberkitty ! ) about 2 bumps will take care of it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> The Gig board I can get it up to 4600 on 1.475v and run stable even with prime in-place just so long I don't bump up the fsb, but still have core voltage fluctuations. Even at 201 x 18 the VRM temps jump up into 70s! Cooling is not a problem with the cores, they never ever go over 32c don't matter what I clock it to. I have 720 cfm of air blowing over the mobo. Plus 2 huge rads 300mm x 480mm single and a 220mm x 300mm double. The mobo temps are always around 30c to 32c. The Northbridge will go up to 40c, but I think that's because the VRM/NorthBridge share the same cooler and the heat is being transferred back to the Northbridge via the VRM. Most all the other temps stay around ambient temps, but the VRM even at default settings the VRM is running idle 50c and jumps to 66c under load. The cooler is hot to the touch over the VRM. I think the VRM is bad on this board what do guys feel?


ud3s are known to have vrm issues yes, but you are using a 8core cpu, with that said you still need active cooling, in reality CFM means nothing, size of your case could negate that quickly ( not saying it does just that it can ) static pressure is much more important, and even then other variables matter much more, resistance being one of them.

CFM changes as does static pressure, you really need a pq chart to even start to understand fans, just because they are rated @ 110cfm @ max does not mean that is what you are getting as the CFM changes with the resistance applied to it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> Gigabyte replied back saying I should leave the settings at default in this board. Looked all over OC and couldn't find where others were having the same VRM problems on a ver 4. I just don't understand why such a dramatic correlation between the fsb and the VRM on this board.


i am willing to bet you have some volts settings on atuo for one thing, however again this board does have issues
however that said gigabyte is right you should not try to oc on this board, with the known issues in this thread alone, it is really not worth it !~ i dont know why everyone thinks a entry level mobo can be oced to begin with ! in the newer bios they even implemented throttling just to protect this board
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> In my profile pics you'll see I'm using this board. Also the psu is rock solid 12v, 5v and 3.3 never sags under load always a little above. As you can see in the screen shot. I just did this load test at 4400/200fsb using the kids FX8320 and their ram (no seen changes from my stuff) as you see everything is cool, but the VRM is up to 66c I don't think it should get this hot. During this test the core voltages were fluctuating between 1.2v to 1.375v, at idle they went back to 1.375v.


this is starting to really get to me ( not because of you, but literally every day this week someone has said this please, if you question something about your PSU _*DO NOT trust software voltage readouts*_, use a digital multimeter !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> I haven't given up on this board yet cause I might be missing something! I get bored and this board gives me something to play with. If anything this board is definitely entertaining LOL


i would highly recommend upgrading ot a ud5 at least, if not a Saberkitty or CVFz


----------



## hagtek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> These ballistix are typically pretty good stuff. Mine use Micron D9PFJ IC's and I think my Mushkin do too though I can't 100% confirm without removing the heatsink. These Mushkins score and OC/behave exactly same as my Crucials so I can only assume.
> 
> They'll do 1866 8-8-8-24 1T too.


Funny, I have some Mushkin Stealth 1600 @ 9-9-9-24-1T that I overclocked on the AMD rig to 1866 @ 9-9-9-27-1T until I got the Crucial and it ran great without any problems at stock voltage. Not sure I needed the Crucial, but wanted to try some. In fact the Mushkin overclocked with better timings and bench numbers than the GSkill Sniper had/did with stock XMP settings.

I'll have to try dropping the timings @ 1866.

Oh, ran the Mushkin at stock voltage too. Good stuff!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> Funny, I have some Mushkin Stealth 1600 @ 9-9-9-24-1T that I overclocked on the AMD rig to 1866 @ 9-9-9-27-1T until I got the Crucial and it ran great without any problems at stock voltage. Not sure I needed the Crucial, but wanted to try some. In fact the Mushkin overclocked with better timings and bench numbers than the GSkill Sniper had/did with stock XMP settings.
> 
> I'll have to try dropping the timings @ 1866.


Well Mushkin has used many different IC's from different companies over the years. These Redlines were a short run too. Got 8GB for like ~$55 right when they came out, a month later they were out of stock and I've never seen them come back. The other Redlines were 9-10-9 and not 9-9-9. I also asked MushkinSean and he said the 9-9-9 kit were a newer/better IC. They don't divuldge which IC's they use though. Only way to know is take heatsink off and look.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *metallives*
> 
> ok i have the error code 92 code fixed now im reading error code A2
> what is this about?


From the small amount of googling it seems A2 error code pertains to a problem with IDE/SATA and the drives attached.


----------



## AMEXPAT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Leave "Turbo" enabled in bios, just set it for whatever clock speed you're using.


Tried that, but all I get is the Boot Fail Failure cant do any overclocking at all with Turbo enable since day one. In default performance setting with the Turbo enabled I still get the double boot since day one, just tried it again a few minutes ago to make sure! I'm saying double, but really it's a total of 3 off-on that's how many times my speakers click..


----------



## Chargeit

Hey, what about this?

Crucial Ballistix Sport XT
http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Ballistix-PC3-14900-240-Pin-BLS2C8G3D18ADS3/dp/B00D9QFSUE/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1393560276&sr=1-4&keywords=16gb+1866+ram

It's $161.99 on Amazon, add 9 bucks for Saturday delivery. Still expensive, but, not as bad as I was looking at...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> Funny, I have some Mushkin Stealth 1600 @ 9-9-9-24-1T that I overclocked on the AMD rig to 1866 @ 9-9-9-27-1T until I got the Crucial and it ran great without any problems at stock voltage. Not sure I needed the Crucial, but wanted to try some. In fact the Mushkin overclocked with better timings and bench numbers than the GSkill Sniper had/did with stock XMP settings.
> 
> I'll have to try dropping the timings @ 1866.
> 
> 
> 
> Well Mushkin has used many different IC's from different companies over the years. These Redlines were a short run too. Got 8GB for like ~$55 right when they came out, a month later they were out of stock and I've never seen them come back. The other Redlines were 9-10-9 and not 9-9-9. I also asked MushkinSean and he said the 9-9-9 kit were a newer/better IC. They don't divuldge which IC's they use though. Only way to know is take heatsink off and look.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *metallives*
> 
> ok i have the error code 92 code fixed now im reading error code A2
> what is this about?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> From the small amount of googling it seems A2 error code pertains to a problem with IDE/SATA and the drives attached.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMEXPAT*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Leave "Turbo" enabled in bios, just set it for whatever clock speed you're using.
> 
> 
> 
> Tried that, but all I get is the Boot Fail Failure cant do any overclocking at all with Turbo enable since day one. In default performance setting with the Turbo enabled I still get the double boot since day one, just tried it again a few minutes ago to make sure! I'm saying double, but really it's a total of 3 off-on that's how many times my speakers click..
Click to expand...

sounds like you are trying unstable ocs to me
you can post bios pics we may be able ot help you

also to note i have noticed another bug is that sometimes if i boot with unstable ocs the pc WILL NOT boot even to a known stable profile UNLESS i reload default, save and reboot then load known stable oc. maybe i can later post my bios save, anyone with a ud7 rev3.0 can test it out,
would have to warn, it is not for anything below heavy water cooling though the volts i run through it can toast though any premade kit ( inc aios ) and do not even try it with air


----------



## Chargeit

OK, so, here are my 2 options right now.

First,

Corsair Vengeance Pro Series 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1866 MHZ - Now, the reason I'm looking these, is the fact they are 1866 which should work, and, CL 9. They however are $5 more than the next ones.

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Desktop-Memory-CMY16GX3M2A1866C9/dp/B00D2LGRO2/ref=sr_1_61?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1393566208&sr=1-61&keywords=16gb+ram

Corsair Vengeance Pro 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 2133 MHz - Might seem like the obvious, $5 bucks cheaper, higher clock, but, CL of 11, and I'm not sure they would work with my mobo. Now, are these just OC'ed versions of the above posted? Should I be able to drop them to 1866 CL 9 if they give me issues at 2133?

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-2x8GB-17000-Desktop/dp/B00D6E5KMA/ref=sr_1_54?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1393566208&sr=1-54&keywords=16gb+ram

I'm going to be buying a set in the next hour or so. Damned if I don't hate buying ram.


----------



## Mega Man

i have yet to see a chip that cant do 2133, but no theoretically it would give you 1866 @ ~ cl10, ( each speed up is usually ~ 1 cl up ) but that is not always true as you may be able to oc them more, ..... so it is a craps shoot either way you could get lucky or unlucky

this is very oversimplified so please, i dont want to hear how wrong i am


----------



## M3TAl

I'm not a big RAM guy, I can't recite from memory which sticks have what IC and all that. However it is very likely those two Corsair Vengeance use the exact same IC. All they do is raise the timings and speed. Wouldn't really make much difference which sticks you get. I know for a fact Crucial makes 1.35V 1333 sticks that use the same Micron D9PFJ IC as these Ballisitix 1866 1.5V sticks.

Keep in mind there is binning for memory IC's just like CPU's. One pair of sticks with the same IC might OC much better/worse than an identical one. Luck of the draw just like with CPU's.


----------



## AMEXPAT

Like I said I cant do any oc even lite stuff like 3600 it wont boot with the Tubo enabled! As for the fan stats you stated about I'm using a 18,000 BTU window air-con fan it sucks threw the front rad and blows threw the back rad like a hurricane inside the case. With the back fan cut off the motor is unloaded and gained more rpms so I might be getting more CFM than what the air-con specs are. All I know is when it's on my pant legs blow in the breeze LOL. The back rad I did put 6 cheap 120s don't know what they are rated at, but they are quite and still keep things cool, use them when I just do lite stuff and turn on the big boy up front when I do loads. Did take your advice and read the voltages with a multimeter, just did it on the psu under load 200/4400 Yellow +12v was 12.11v, Red +5v was 5.04v, Orange +3.3v was 3.32v, blue -12v was -12.08, Gray +5v was 5.04v and Purple Standby was 5.16v are these voltages good enough to overclock a new Sabertooth? But enough said about this board going to buy another Sabertooth, but a brand new one this time for the kids rig I bought a used one it does the double boot thing too. Does the new Sabertooth do the double boot it drives me nuts lol? Also I think it's a little hard on the start capacitor for my air-con fan motor? Wasn't going to talk about Asus stuff before since this is a Gig. Forum, but since you brought it up. When I get my new board think I'm going to use this one for a frisbee. That older model Sabertooth works soooooooooooooo much better.


----------



## Mega Man

i never noticed a double boot

ocing cares more about ripple then volts
http://www.overclock.net/t/722251/on-psu-voltages/0_100#post_9200914


----------



## Chargeit

Ok, thanks.

I'm just kicking myself in the head for even thinking about spending this kind of money on ram, just to have it for the weekend. (It isn't the money, it's the principle)

I mean, my damned CPU was $145, and them mobo was $155 after mail in. Crap, my old GPU was only $160. Now, I'm about to spend like $210 on ram, (with tax) just to have it by the weekend.

Though, even my ol'lady wants me to buy it. I end up being busy without my rig for entertainment. Dang, I wish Newegg did Saturday delivery.

It's funny, seems so simple, yet.

If I get the 2133, w/CL 11, and notice that it down clocks to 1866 CL10, than it most likely means I'd of been better off with the 1866.

If I get the 1866 CL 9, and it takes CL 11 for it to handle 2133, than I should of gotten the 2133, since it was cheaper.

Now, if I get the 1866 CL 9, and it does hit 2133 w/CL 10, than, it would of been worth the extra $5 right. I mean, screw it at the price I'm already paying.

I should of done more ram research before this, but, it was going to be a much simpler choice when adding ram to my ol'ladys rig. I mean, you know. Also, with the ram prices how they are, it's hard to judge what will be what at any time.

This is why I hate memory. I mean, I'm not scared of OC'ing it, it's just that my last sticks, had no benefit from OC'ing.

*I'm thinking, the 1866 CL 9 ram, is the better quality of the 2, since like Megaman said, 1866 to 2133 should be CL 10, not CL 11.


----------



## Chargeit

Lol,

I was flirting around with the idea of ordering the 1866 ram, which was going to come out to $215 right, I was about to remove it, and go with something cheaper.

SO, in order to get Amazon prime ($9 next day shipping), I was on my ol'ladys amazon account, which is important to the story. I clicked the buy button, which, in my amazon account would go though this long confirmation process, and instead of asking my address/credit card info, the f'er just said thanks for buying (more or less). It bought the ram, on her card... ugh.

Now, it's cool, and I let her know, but still. I didn't expect it to automatically make the purchase like that. Well, it did.

You're now looking at a fool that paid $215 bucks for ram. Damn, I was about to go with something cheaper. Oh well, f'it. I needed ram, and, my system will be back up and running this weekend.


----------



## Mega Man

you should be able to cancel it , she has 1 click buying on

personally i would buy this and cancel that

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you should be able to cancel it , she has 1 click buying on
> 
> personally i would buy this and cancel that
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231589


Yea, it's already done. They charge quickly.

Also, the reason I wanted to do Amazon, is I can get it for Saturday. If I order though newegg, I'd have to wait until Tuesday (or Wednesday/Thursday depending). So, I'm being impatient, but, I'm missing my rig. I'm used to waiting, but, considering the time I spent having freezes dealing with the GPU, I haven't had my system fully functional in about a month.

*The ram options though Amazon prime are fairly limited.


----------



## Mega Man

better ram > then getting your rig running a few days earlier


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> better ram > then getting your rig running a few days earlier


Yea, the issue being, since they already took the money out of her account, it would be about a week before it would get put back. I'm going to have to pull the money I just spent out of my account, and put in hers.

If I tried to cancel it now, it would be a week before I'd be able to order more, so really, it would be more like 2 weeks before I'd have ram for my system.

I really didn't mean to order the ram, but, now that it has been done, I'm stuck with it, or, I'm going to be waiting another 2 weeks for ram. It sucks, but, it is what it is.

*I sure the heck hope this ram is one hell of a OC'er.

Oh, figured I'd toss in NC is now getting hit by online sales tax. =/

Item(s) Subtotal: $189.99
Shipping & Handling: $8.99

Total before tax: $198.98
Sales Tax: $14.92

Total for This Shipment: $213.90

That just sucks.


----------



## hagtek

online sales tax , jeez, that does suck.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> online sales tax , jeez, that does suck.


I know man. Oh well, least I'll have my computer up and running tomorrow. =D Alpha 7 of "7 days to die" comes out tonight. I can't wait to see how the "smoothed terrain" comes out.

I'm feeling like a total tool over this ram, but, I had to do what I had to do. Damn, and pretty much everything else, I've manged to get good deals for.









*Already shipped.









STATUS: In transit
SHIP CARRIER: FedEx
TRACKING ID:
LATEST EVENT: Package has left seller facility and is in transit to carrier - February 28, 2014 3:34:00 PM


----------



## hagtek

I wouldn't beat on yourself too much, once DDR4 comes out, later this year?, that $200+ DDR3 you just picked up won't matter (much) any more.









http://www.pcworld.com/article/2085880/intel-set-to-bring-ddr4-dram-to-computers-in-third-quarter.html


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> I wouldn't beat on yourself too much, once DDR4 comes out, later this year?, that $200+ DDR3 you just picked up won't matter (much) any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.pcworld.com/article/2085880/intel-set-to-bring-ddr4-dram-to-computers-in-third-quarter.html


Yea, I know.









It's the way things work. Screw it, I paid to get my ram sooner than later. Though, I didn't mean to buy it when I did, I'm fairly excited about getting it. I was about to cancel, and just order through Newegg. Tomorrow, I'll be happy I bought it.


----------



## Chargeit

OK, I've got my system put back together. Now, I have a issue.

My ram, is bench marking basically the same as my previous ram, even though it should be higher.

What am I getting wrong here? Is there something else I need to OC in order to take advantage of high speed ram?


----------



## M3TAl

CPU-NB gets you more bandwidth. Tightening timings more helps too. What are you using to bench memory?

EDIT: Bandwidth also increases with CPU clockspeed. Forgot to mention that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> CPU-NB gets you more bandwidth. Tightening timings more helps too. What are you using to bench memory?
> 
> EDIT: Bandwidth also increases with CPU clockspeed. Forgot to mention that.


more to the point
show us your bench and we can tell you if something is wrong, also last i knew maxxmem is broken on amd


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> CPU-NB gets you more bandwidth. Tightening timings more helps too. What are you using to bench memory?
> 
> EDIT: Bandwidth also increases with CPU clockspeed. Forgot to mention that.


I was on the lube (







), and remembered what you told me, about needing to oc my NB if I got 4 sticks. I guess it applies in other areas.









I'm using MaxxMem2.

I manged a crash already, system freeze, when I went to start EVGA precision. I'll try to uninstall and reinstall it.

I'm running a memtest pass, real quick. I'll do a full run later.

I'm guessing, I'll need to tighten up my OC. Most likely, the reason I had such trouble free oc'ing, was because I was running 1600 ram.

***I didn't uninstall my graphics drivers, until I put in this Nvidia card. I should of done it when I removed the AMD card. I had planned on putting it back in my system though.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> more to the point
> show us your bench and we can tell you if something is wrong, also last i knew maxxmem is broken on amd


OK, I'll run another one. I'm going to let this first pass of memtest86 finish first. Make sure there isn't any obvious memory issues.

*I heard that it reads at half. Though, you'd know better than I. what do you suggest to bench it?

***I got my ol'ladys DVD working. All I did was switch sata ports. I also redid the connections on both ends.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> more to the point
> show us your bench and we can tell you if something is wrong, also last i knew maxxmem is broken on amd
> 
> 
> 
> OK, I'll run another one. I'm going to let this first pass of memtest86 finish first. Make sure there isn't any obvious memory issues.
Click to expand...

i recommend paying for aida 64


----------



## Chargeit

I'll take a look at it.

Benchmark.


----------



## M3TAl

Maxxmem is horrible, incredibly inconsistent and random. Aida is good except that you have to buy it to unlock all the tests. I like to use SiSoftware Sandra Lite. http://www.sisoftware.net//?d=dload&f=sware_dl_3264&l=en&a=

Here's two runs from some time ago at 1800 MHz 8-8-8-24 CPU-NB:2475 MHz and CPU was probably around 4.8-4.95 GHz, don't remember exactly.

Maxxmem I get anywhere from 11-11.8 GB/s. Again maxxmem is horrible, seen it do so many weird inconsistent things.



Some scores when I was trying to push past 12 GB/s, didn't happen.


----------



## Chargeit

I'll check out some of these other benchmarks. I'd have to wait on buying Aida 64.

Oh, and my GPU, it did auto OC itself to 1045, now, 1019. That sucks =/

I never attempted to OC my 780, and let it handle that itself, since I didn't feel like I needed to. However seeing it not oc itself as high, makes me worried it isn't as strong of a chip.


----------



## M3TAl

Well those Nvidia 780's and other variants are known to OC like crazy so you might want to look into that







. The stock boost clocks vary a lot and I have no idea what all that is based on either. You'll need to go ask around in the club threads for the cards.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well those Nvidia 780's and other variants are known to OC like crazy so you might want to look into that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The stock boost clocks vary a lot and I have no idea what all that is based on either. You'll need to go ask around in the club threads for the cards.


Yea, I just treated it like a Prom Queen, considering the price.









I'll check it out more. The card itself, is supposed to boost to 966 (something like that), though it would do over. I know it could hit higher clocks, but, I figured it was basically good enough.

*To be honest, I'd trade this f'er in for 2 270/760's, or, 280x/770's. Though, I'm not, o/c. Just saying, I won't be going so high again.

***I'm now kicking back some brews, and considering I'm now a light weight, I'm going to let this sit until tomorrow.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> *To be honest, I'd trade this f'er in for 2 270/760's, or, 280x/770's. Though, I'm not, o/c. Just saying, I won't be going so high again.


Have to disagree with that. Single strong GPU > 2 weaker GPUs. Typically single card will be quieter, cooler, take less space, and less power etc. Also Xfire/SLI can be a damn nightmare with many titles. Sure it works great for the most part in big AAA titles that get all the profiles and optimizations. Smaller games and older games can be horrible with 2 cards. Weird gltiches/flickering, horrible FPS, or just plain game won't run.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Have to disagree with that. Single strong GPU > 2 weaker GPUs. Typically single card will be quieter, cooler, take less space, and less power etc. Also Xfire/SLI can be a damn nightmare with many titles. Sure it works great for the most part in big AAA titles that get all the profiles and optimizations. Smaller games and older games can be horrible with 2 cards. Weird gltiches/flickering, horrible FPS, or just plain game won't run.


My thought on it, is, if one of your cards goes bad, you won't be stuck without a card. When it works right, you'll get more performance vs one card.

As for the smaller/older games, You won't need to worry about a more powerful GPU on them. Just use one.

The largest issue I see, is the extra heat because of having 2 cards. Power and space of course, but that isn't as large of a issue, if you planned for it.

Also, I still intend to add a 3rd monitor. That should benefit from dual cards.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I'll take a look at it.
> 
> Benchmark.


I just bought 2x4gb team group vulcan orange series cl11 2400 mhz ddr3 ram and an Asus Sabertooth 990fx r2.0. I'm still learning but it's a difficult mainboard because Windows energy and sleep (hibernate) problems. Anyway I want to share my memory benchmark. Maybe someone has a better idea?


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, this is what I was hitting on my "Team" ram 2x4 8gb @ 1600. Now this was ideal, and the results for awhile, before adjusting some mobo settings. It lowered after, and than, wouldn't touch this again.



I'm not convinced it's MaxxMem that is the problem. I had around these results for awhile, than I changed a setting in bios, it lowered, and even when changing back, it wouldn't alter.

*Oh, that was a test at 1333, I had the same at 1600 for awhile.

**I'm going to OC my NB some.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, this is what I was hitting on my "Team" ram 2x4 8gb @ 1600. Now this was ideal, and the results for awhile, before adjusting some mobo settings. It lowered after, and than, wouldn't touch this again.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not convinced it's MaxxMem that is the problem. I had around these results for awhile, than I changed a setting in bios, it lowered, and even when changing back, it wouldn't alter.
> 
> *Oh, that was a test at 1333, I had the same at 1600 for awhile.


My old GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.3 is broken. I don't buy Gigabyte again.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> My old GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.3 is broken. I don't buy Gigabyte again.


I don't think it's the mobo, I think it's settings, and limitations of the hardware.

**After the experience with this GPU, I won't buy Asus anymore. No matter how well they OC.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I don't think it's the mobo, I think it's settings, and limitations of the hardware.
> 
> **After the experience with this GPU, I won't buy Asus anymore. No matter how well they OC.


I hope you are right. My new mainboard should last a bit. Here is a better benchmark but it gives some error (my ht is 2800 and nb 2500)


----------



## hagtek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, this is what I was hitting on my "Team" ram 2x4 8gb @ 1600. Now this was ideal, and the results for awhile, before adjusting some mobo settings. It lowered after, and than, wouldn't touch this again.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not convinced it's MaxxMem that is the problem. I had around these results for awhile, than I changed a setting in bios, it lowered, and even when changing back, it wouldn't alter.
> 
> *Oh, that was a test at 1333, I had the same at 1600 for awhile.
> 
> **I'm going to OC my NB some.


I would agree with the consensus that MaxxMem is _the_ problem, at least from what I've seen of it. I too have Aida 64 and can not recommend it highly enough.

I guess if all things are equal and you're comparing MaxxMem scores to MaxxMem scores to compare two different RAM then ok, but I don't believe the test/test results are indicative of memory performance.

I'm talking as relating to AMD motherboards.

Intel looks alright:



AMD does not:



Much better with Aida64:


----------



## Chargeit

We'll from what I heard, you'd basically want to double your Maxxmem score, using AMD.

My point is, I've had fairly consistence scores running maxxmem. Than, I'd adjust some obscure setting in my bios, and it would change, and not be fixable though bios. That's why I think it's something to do with the system, not Maxxmem, once you take that doubling into consideration.

Also, the windows score is affected by my mentioned changes. So, that means it affects both Maxxmem score, and windows score. That's 2 different spots that the results are altered.


----------



## hagtek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> My point is, I've had fairly consistence scores running maxxmem. Than, I'd adjust some obscure setting in my bios, and it would change, and not be fixable though bios. That's why I think it's something to do with the system, not Maxxmem, once you take that doubling into consideration.


Ok, now I understand. No optimized or default settings to default to or try clearing CMOS?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> Ok, now I understand. No optimized or default settings to default to or try clearing CMOS?


I'm going to have to mess with it more.

It seems like settings in bios affects it, but, not always. I don't get it myself.

I just know, that it changed based off of changes I did, yet wasn't reversible by undoing those same settings.

*I'm buzzed up right now, and not messing with bios settings, though, I might go to war on it tomorrow. It's really unsettling to me that getting faster/better ram had almost no affect.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, this is what I was hitting on my "Team" ram 2x4 8gb @ 1600. Now this was ideal, and the results for awhile, before adjusting some mobo settings. It lowered after, and than, wouldn't touch this again.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not convinced it's MaxxMem that is the problem. I had around these results for awhile, than I changed a setting in bios, it lowered, and even when changing back, it wouldn't alter.
> 
> *Oh, that was a test at 1333, I had the same at 1600 for awhile.
> 
> **I'm going to OC my NB some.


no it is a problem with maxxmem [URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1750583/width/500/height/1000%5B/IMG]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1750583/width/500/height/1000[/IMG[/URL]]
[URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1750582/][IMG alt=""]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1750582/width/500/height/1000/flags/LL[/URL]


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I see that from your aida64 readings.

I'm going to have to admit, I'm not feeling spending $40 bucks on a benchmarking tool.

Maybe for $20, but, $40, I just don't think it's worth it.


----------



## NeonFlak

nm me... apparently you have to set the bios to UEFI first to be able to install to raid in windows 7 and 8?


----------



## Chargeit

I did basic test, to see if bumping my NB up affected my maxxmem score, and it did.

I moved NB from 2200, to 2400. I gained 1gb/sec. Now, I moved back, since I have to get things more worked out.

I'm going to get some of those suggested programs, but, I just can't bring myself to spend $40 bucks on that one. Maybe later, when I haven't just spent so much on ram.


----------



## Sev501

Hey guys! Just moved to the AMD side again, coming from ancient Athlon XP and Pentium 4









Recently built this on Decemeber 15th, 2014 (Ram and GPU were recycled from older rig). Got me self a UD3 (Rev 4.0)/FX-8350 BE made it clock up to 4.5ghz @ 1.325v prime95 no cores dieing, but had to revert back to Turbo Speed seettings it's the summer and still can't decide if I'd get a AIO cooler or the Dh-14 would suffice atm rockin on Xigmatek DK II Night Hawk Ed and temps are quite within the specified range.. Prime Small load gets up to 59c and stuck there, Others make it only around 47c to 55c.

P.s. My g.Skill Jaws the older version ones rated at 1.65v recently died haha (well it was a hand me down from cousin) any recommendations for ram? A good 8/16gb 1600mhz cl9 would do. I'm running on a single stick of 4gb Crucial ram atm









P.P.s I've read from the 1st page up to my post (







started lastweek of December, had to read all of it and boy your adventures were tough, fruitful and some have regrets







)

Thanks for letting me in!









Validation (atm running turbo speeds [thanks to you guys was able to get past the double boot thing])
http://valid.canardpc.com/6gtkfl


----------



## mus1mus

Yo KABAYAN,
If you are looking to improve your current clock, 4.4 + up, you should go at least AIO. However, there's also your board that might not get you past 4.7-4.8.. So I should say your current cooler will suffice at least 4.5..

Don't worry about the TEMPS once you get past the stability testing. Won't see that again in most cases.

HEHEH

There are lots of lovely RAMS available at TPC. G.Skills were good. Look for a low voltage with tight timing kit and your chip will love it.


----------



## Sev501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Yo KABAYAN,
> If you are looking to improve your current clock, 4.4 + up, you should go at least AIO. However, there's also your board that might not get you past 4.7-4.8.. So I should say your current cooler will suffice at least 4.5..
> 
> Don't worry about the TEMPS once you get past the stability testing. Won't see that again in most cases.
> 
> HEHEH
> 
> There are lots of lovely RAMS available at TPC. G.Skills were good. Look for a low voltage with tight timing kit and your chip will love it.


Yeah I've been following your posts on this topic!! That's the reason why I signed up!! All of you guys give info wonderfully as for the vdroop issues I can confirm that my board doesn't suffer as bad as the others!

And reading from page one up to the last isn't quite an easy job hahah.... But yeah thanks to you guys I've managed to make 4.5ghz work (am not really aiming for something very high, a moderate oc like 4.5ghz would do).

Would it make any difference if I replaced my xigmatek's fan to 2 Corsair SP120 high perf pwm ones? I'd doubt that it would do wonders coz the heatsink isn't that thick to boot... Atm it's just 1 fan not on Push/Pull... Really considering things to buy atm cause my 22" AOC died on me and waiting for the Asus 23" to be delivered and now the older ripjaws (black hspreaders @ 1.65v hand me down just died) lolol... What a rocky year for my pc hahah...


----------



## mus1mus

I went inactive for a while though.

4.5 is a very easy clock to achieve on that cooler. Most other guys even recommend a Hyper 212. And yours won't perform less than a 212. I am hesitant to introduce you to an AIO since I know for sure the limitation of the board. What I'd suggest for you is to cool that VRM area first. Then try if you can still get past 4.5 without throttling or Overheating the VRM. If CPU temp is the only limiting factor on your OC, then that's the time to look for a better cooling solution..

But until then, I suggest stick with it while testing. I'd even suggest you test your system on the summer!! You get past the season, you'll be okay the whole year..


----------



## Sev501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I went inactive for a while though.
> 
> 4.5 is a very easy clock to achieve on that cooler. Most other guys even recommend a Hyper 212. And yours won't perform less than a 212. I am hesitant to introduce you to an AIO since I know for sure the limitation of the board. What I'd suggest for you is to cool that VRM area first. Then try if you can still get past 4.5 without throttling or Overheating the VRM. If CPU temp is the only limiting factor on your OC, then that's the time to look for a better cooling solution..
> 
> But until then, I suggest stick with it while testing. I'd even suggest you test your system on the summer!! You get past the season, you'll be okay the whole year..


Alright! Cheers I'll see if it survives the summer haha.. If not it'd be an early new year! Fireworks! LOL (hopefully not x-fingers)

I'll just run this as it is for now and await my funds to come for a good set of new ram...

Thanks for the tips bro!


----------



## mus1mus

LOL..

Here's another tip, 4.5 can sometimes be achieved without adding any offsets on your Vcore. or Stock Voltage so to speak.

At 4.5 right now, CPU Core - +0.000; CPU-NB - +0.100; LLC - High.

250 FSB with 18 Multi. 2000 MHz RAM, 2500 CPU-NB and HT Link.

TEMPS never go past 55 on air now.. No matter what the load in a non-air-conditioned environment.

Technique is to find a thermally feasible clock for your set-up. Go as low on the voltage while keeping it stable..


----------



## Chargeit

Wow, check this out.

I'm messing with the NB some, and, just ran heaven with my NB @ 2400.



I haven't stability tested this, and, windows fails attempting a performance score, but, I've never seen a heaven like that. I mean, that was a 100 point increase.


----------



## M3TAl

I've never tested the affect of CPU-NB on Heaven or Valley scores. Could be that or not having a faulty GPU anymore, or both.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've never tested the affect of CPU-NB on Heaven or Valley scores. Could be that or not having a faulty GPU anymore, or both.


I ran a heaven last night, and scored something like 1317. I had lost points. I mean, it isn't uncommon to jump around a few points, but, over 100. That's just crazy.

I changed 2 things.

I moved my NB from 2200 to 2400

I also manually set my NB voltage to 1.110. So, I gave it just a little more power.

All my temps and the such seem fine. Still, it worries me, since, I'm kind of just poking at it with a stick.

*I'm going to get around to running some of the benchmarks ya'll suggested. I mainly just enjoyed having my computer again today, so I really wasn't wanting to bench/stress test you know.


----------



## M3TAl

Was the min FPS a lot higher?

OC'ing the CPU-NB helped a TON on Deneb/Thuban. Anywhere from an actual 5-10 FPS in games.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Was the min FPS a lot higher?
> 
> OC'ing the CPU-NB helped a TON on Deneb/Thuban. Anywhere from an actual 5-10 FPS in games.


I've seen my min fps float between 20.3 to 25.5 running heaven with this gpu/cpu combo. I'd say that 23.3 on heaven is a good min, I'm thinking the score came from that max fps. 122 vs 110 or so before.

Max fps really isn't worth getting excited about, but, still, the min fps on that run was solid, and the avg fps was higher than usual.

Also, remember, I'm still messing with it. SO, I'm not even sure it's stable.

***A older run



I also have a older run with 25.3 saved on here somewhere. Still none of them came close to that same score/avg fps.



There it is. The first one, was before I added the 2nd monitor.


----------



## mus1mus

CPU-NB will of course affect the graphics scores as it relates to the CPU and the Memory. Though minute on definition, some benchmarks react to it as well since the system communicates faster with the increased CPU-NB frequency.

Multi-GPU set-up on the other hand benefits from an increased HT Link frequency as it directly relates to the PCI-e bus lanes communication.


----------



## Chargeit

Now, my power mode has a huge affect on my heaven benchmark. (before, there was no difference)

With it set to high, I score like I posted, set to balanced (allowing a min state of 10%), I score much lower (1227 / 1311).

That's interesting.

I'm going to have to mess with this some more. I was stable for 2 hours of prime95 at least.

***I've also noticed that now, if allowed to throttle, my processor state jumps all over the place.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Now, my power mode has a huge affect on my heaven benchmark. (before, there was no difference)
> 
> With it set to high, I score like I posted, set to balanced (allowing a min state of 10%), I score much lower (1227 / 1311).
> 
> That's interesting.
> 
> I'm going to have to mess with this some more. I was stable for 2 hours of prime95 at least.
> 
> ***I've also noticed that now, if allowed to throttle, my processor state jumps all over the place.


... when you bench you want to completely disable all powersaving !


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... when you bench you want to completely disable all powersaving !


Yea, the thing is, it wasn't a issue before I adjusted my North Bridge. It didn't do any of that when I left my NB alone. Which must be the reason I never had problems with it, and just started leaving them on.

*NB left at 2200, and the power saving features don't interfere with anything.

*NB bumped to 2400, and suddenly power saving features play havoc with my CPU.


----------



## Chargeit

For some reason, when I set my NB to 2400, windows defaults to a basic visual mode. It disables transparency and the such. It also can't finish a performance check.


----------



## M3TAl

Never done that to me before when messing with CPU-NB OCs. Weird.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> For some reason, when I set my NB to 2400, windows defaults to a basic visual mode. It disables transparency and the such. It also can't finish a performance check.


X12 CPU-NB Multi has looong been proven to be a dead spot..On GIGAs atleast.. But, it is by no means though, that you cannot clock the CPU-NB to 2400 or more..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... when you bench you want to completely disable all powersaving !


May I add that a throttling CPU on Stress Tests is by no means a Stable CPU??


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I don't know man.

Also, my computer is suddenly doing that thing where turning it off, leaves all fans running.

This is a first for this system.

Yea, I really don't know. I have gotten it stable with the NB settings, and, I disabled C&Q, since that seems to give issues when the NB is oc'ed.

This is starting to give me a major headache.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I don't know man.
> 
> Also, my computer is suddenly doing that thing where turning it off, leaves all fans running.
> 
> This is a first for this system.
> 
> Yea, I really don't know. I have gotten it stable with the NB settings, and, I disabled C&Q, since that seems to give issues when the NB is oc'ed.
> 
> This is starting to give me a major headache.


Just be initiated mate. 2400MHz CPU-NB will not give you headaches. You can probably even reach 2600 with ease.
Just remember that X12 or 2400 CPU-NB in the bios is a deadspot for GIGA..
X13 or 2600 works though.. If you are still on Default FSB of 200, try 2600..










EDIT:

Try Wprime at X12 CPU-NB.. or Passmark's CPU Bench.. You'll see wonders..


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> May I add that a throttling CPU on Stress Tests is by no means a Stable CPU??


My CPU doesn't throttle while stress testing.

It was after I stopped the stress test with CnQ enabled that my CPU was going crazy.

Obviously, CnQ doesn't play nice with a NB oc.


----------



## mus1mus

Power saving, CNQ, will throttle down your CPU at low load.. That's a given..


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just be initiated mate. 2400MHz CPU-NB will not give you headaches. You can probably even reach 2600 with ease.
> Just remember that X12 or 2400 CPU-NB in the bios is a deadspot for GIGA..
> X13 or 2600 works though.. If you are still on Default FSB of 200, try 2600..












Getting it stable isn't the issue. I've already passed 2 hours of prime95 with no problems, WITH CnQ enabled.

It's the other things.

Windows not enabling Aero when I set the NB to 2400
My fans not shutting off suddenly when I power down the system (I think turning off CnQ did this?)
Not being able to use CnQ + NB 2400.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Power saving, CNQ, will throttle down your CPU at low load.. That's a given..


No, not like this.

Normally, it would lower my CPU to 1400, and basically stay like that, unless using it. Once the NB is set to 2400, and CnQ is enabled, it doesn't just settle down, my cores jump all over the place while idle.


----------



## Chargeit

OK, I'll write it down, so it's not seeming as random.

1. I passed 2 hours of Prime95 with my NB @ 2400, while still using CnQ. (stable voltage, no throttling)
2. After stopping Prime95, I noticed my cores jumping all over the place while idle. (It does not do this at NB 2200)

3. If I attempt to run windows performance with my NB set to 2400, it stops half way though, because it can't recognize the GPU drivers or something. (It says, Could not measure video playback performance)
4. Windows refuses to allow me to use aero because of #3.

5. Since disabling CnQ, the fans in my computer continue to run when I attempt to shut down.

So, that's what I'm looking at.

I do notice my system running smoother with NB set at 2400, but, setting it to 2400 seems to cause many issues.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Getting it stable isn't the issue. I've already passed 2 hours of prime95 with no problems, WITH CnQ enabled.
> 
> It's the other things.
> 
> Windows not enabling Aero when I set the NB to 2400
> My fans not shutting off suddenly when I power down the system (I think turning off CnQ did this?)
> Not being able to use CnQ + NB 2400.


Hey mate, listen good to steer clear of the issue. While you have just experience this issue on yours, others have been staying away from X12 CPU-NB Multi or 2400 in the Bios. You might wonder why, so here is a synapse:

Windows Aero Off!!
D3D crash!!
CPU Unstable or returns errors!!
And a lot more issues on hiding on the Background.

As an advice, I said try another level. If you are on Multiplier only OC, you could go higher at 2600 or X13. It has no known bugs other than requiring more CPU-NB Voltage. And will limit your FSB OC.

If you are on FSB OC, stay away from getting your CPU-NB at 2400 or X12 in the Bios. Stay within X10 or X11, displayed as 2000 and 2200 respectively and OC your FSB within the range that will not Over OC your CPU-NB.
i.e 237 FSB at 2200 CPU-NB at Bios will get you a correct value of 2607 CPU-NB.
Just keep in mind that FSB OC will also OC your Memory if neglected. So keep an EYE on the RAM Value as well.

As a Material example, I and my friend has identical settings at:

FSB @ 250 X 18 = 4500MHz CPU
FSB @ 250 X 10 = 2500MHz CPU-NB
FSB @ 250 X 8 = 2000MHz RAM
FSB @ 250 X 11 = 2750MHz HT Link

This is pretty easily achievable OC!! Even on Air with a Good to Better Air Coolers, this is a pretty easy thing to achieve.


----------



## Chargeit

Ah, I got you.

Ok, I'll push for 2600.

*I"m going to have to continue this tomorrow.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> May I add that a throttling CPU on Stress Tests is by no means a Stable CPU??
> 
> 
> 
> My CPU doesn't throttle while stress testing.
> 
> It was after I stopped the stress test with CnQ enabled that my CPU was going crazy.
> 
> Obviously, CnQ doesn't play nice with a NB oc.
Click to expand...

yea.... no


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea.... no


Changing my NB to 2400 causes a whole host of issues. Including, CnQ not working as intended.

*I upped the NB to 2600, it didn't give me the issues that 2400, was. However, I wasn't able to get it stable even when adding 0.050v over what 2400 could do. I'll mess with it more.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea.... no
> 
> 
> 
> Changing my NB to 2400 causes a whole host of issues. Including, CnQ not working as intended.
> 
> *I upped the NB to 2600, it didn't give me the issues that 2400, was. However, I wasn't able to get it stable even when adding 0.050v over what 2400 could do. I'll mess with it more.
Click to expand...

first of all, you never added .05v over 2400, as it was not stable then, because as noted x12 is a dead spot, expect to need 1.2-1.3v assuming your using only 2 dimms, 4 dimms are a whole different beast that i wont get into you did add volts to a oc that was unstable.

also expect your heat to start skyrocketing

cnq did not work not because you had a higher CPU/NB ( your "nb" as you call it is "ht" ) but because, it is not stable and there is something screwy across all lines rev3 that i have seen, (although i could be wrong ) which would point to bios issues


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first of all, you never added .05v over 2400, as it was not stable then, because as noted x12 is a dead spot, expect to need 1.2-1.3v assuming your using only 2 dimms, 4 dimms are a whole different beast that i wont get into you did add volts to a oc that was unstable.
> 
> also expect your heat to start skyrocketing
> 
> cnq did not work not because you had a higher CPU/NB ( your "nb" as you call it is "ht" ) but because, it is not stable and there is something screwy across all lines rev3 that i have seen, (although i could be wrong ) which would point to bios issues


OK, I see where I was messing that up.

I was adjusting NB core.

I guess "NB voltage" is CPU/nb voltage? I have that set to 1.110v


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first of all, you never added .05v over 2400, as it was not stable then, because as noted x12 is a dead spot, expect to need 1.2-1.3v assuming your using only 2 dimms, 4 dimms are a whole different beast that i wont get into you did add volts to a oc that was unstable.
> 
> also expect your heat to start skyrocketing
> 
> cnq did not work not because you had a higher CPU/NB ( your "nb" as you call it is "ht" ) but because, it is not stable and there is something screwy across all lines rev3 that i have seen, (although i could be wrong ) which would point to bios issues
> 
> 
> 
> OK, I see where I was messing that up.
> 
> I was adjusting NB core.
> 
> I guess "NB voltage" is CPU/nb voltage? I have that set to 1.110v
Click to expand...

nb core =cpu/nb nb=ht, which uses both nb volts and ht volts
sorry if i seem cross, i really dont mean to, i am just overly blunt


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nb core =cpu/nb nb=ht, which uses both nb volts and ht volts
> sorry if i seem cross, i really dont mean to, i am just overly blunt


OK, so,

CPU/NB = NB core

HT = NB voltage / HT link Voltage

OK, so, if I'm moving my CPU/NB to 2600, I'm going to want to increase NB core. Now, I had done this, while trying +0.050 - +0.100. All of these resulted in a lack of stability. What is the max I can set this, since I'm scared to attempt any higher.

*I set my CPU/NB to 2600 and set NB core to +0.125 and am running a stability test.

Failed after 8 min.

**I moved my NB core to +0.150

I'm about 35 min into prime95 at the above settings. I'm going to let it run for 2 hours, and see what happens. I'm still going to be moving to a i7 4770k later this month, I already got the go ahead from my ol'lady. So, if she's cool with it, I'm on it. Still I want to see what happens if I can OC the CPU/NB.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nb core =cpu/nb nb=ht, which uses both nb volts and ht volts
> sorry if i seem cross, i really dont mean to, i am just overly blunt
> 
> 
> 
> OK, so,
> 
> CPU/NB = NB core
> 
> HT = NB voltage / HT link Voltage
> 
> OK, so, if I'm moving my CPU/NB to 2600, I'm going to want to increase NB core. Now, I had done this, while trying +0.050 - +0.100. All of these resulted in a lack of stability. What is the max I can set this, since I'm scared to attempt any higher.
> 
> *I set my CPU/NB to 2600 and set NB core to +0.125 and am running a stability test.
> 
> Failed after 8 min.
> 
> **I moved my NB core to +0.150
> 
> I'm about 35 min into prime95 at the above settings. I'm going to let it run for 2 hours, and see what happens. I'm still going to be moving to a i7 4770k later this month, I already got the go ahead from my ol'lady. So, if she's cool with it, I'm on it. Still I want to see what happens if I can OC the CPU/NB.
Click to expand...

as always worry about temps not volts i have pushed it to same as vcore


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as always worry about temps not volts i have pushed it to same as vcore


OK, I pulled a hour and a half than stopped. I'm now running intel burn test.

My temps are good, sub 48c on NB, and not passing 50c on CPU. It is cold outside however.

I'll set it up to run when I go to sleep tonight, and see if it can run all night.


----------



## mus1mus

Post some bench if you can..


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Post some bench if you can..


What do you want me to bench?

I haven't really gotten it stable officially yet. I did run a quick heaven, and scored lower than normal by a point or two. I'm assuming that's pointing towards instability.

I'm fairly busted on it. I'm just moving to a *i7 4770k, since I tend to play games that just aren't optimized for a AMD chip. I'm big into zombie/indie games. So, they just don't have the resources to get games running right on Intel and AMD, add in tons of AI + irresponsible use of shadows and lighting = nightmare for my CPU.

My ol'lady is cool with it, so, I'm doing it. I'm not sure what I'm going to do with this CPU / mobo. I was thinking sell, but, I'd like to have a server PC. I really don't know yet.


----------



## mus1mus

AIDA 64 would be good to show improvements brought by the CPU-NB bump... Trial version will do for testing's sake.

IMO, I wouldn't jump for a 4770K from my 8320 yet.

If I do, which I am clearly thinking of as my next rig, I'd go for an 4930K.. That is the only thing I can do to make sure I can beat AMD chips all out.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> AIDA 64 would be good to show improvements brought by the CPU-NB bump... Trial version will do for testing's sake.
> 
> IMO, I wouldn't jump for a 4770K from my 8320 yet.
> 
> If I do, which I am clearly thinking of as my next rig, I'd go for an 4930K.. That is the only thing I can do to make sure I can beat AMD chips all out.


Yea, I wanted the 6 core, but, it's just so dang pricey. The i7 4770k should do fine. Like I said, if you were to look at a list of games I play, you'd realize intel is the way to go for me. It kind of sucks, since I love a underdog, but, it is what it is.

I'll run some bench. I set my computer back to the previous settings, since I'm not 100% I"m stable yet. I'll run at those settings, than load back up my NB oc settings, to see what happens.


----------



## Chargeit

*Before ocing CPU/NB*



*After Ocing CPU/NB*



*Before ocing CPU/NB*



*After ocing CPU/NB*


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> *Before ocing CPU/NB*
> 
> 
> 
> *After Ocing CPU/NB*
> 
> 
> 
> *Before ocing CPU/NB*
> 
> 
> 
> *After ocing CPU/NB*


And yeah, pull that RAM CR to CR1 please.


----------



## Chargeit

I'll check it out. I've never noticed that before. I guess it just defaults to that?


----------



## lagur

Got the 990fxa-ud3 and not sure if 6 gpu mining will work with this board.

Can anyone confirm this?


----------



## M3TAl

I'll post mine for comparisons sake, keep in mind I had bunch of programs and million chrome tabs in the background. And yeah you definitely want 1T command rate.

Had all kinds of weird errors when opening the GPGPU bench. Oh and GPU isn't running 1125 Mhz like it says there, that's just what I've got set in the BIOS for the card. It runs 1200 MHz 24/7.


----------



## Mega Man

save up and get a 3930/4930k from OCN atm there is a RIVE on sale too for cheap

if you go intel, at least do it right and not sidegrade


----------



## Chargeit

*I dropped my CR to 1, I've already noticed one of my CPU dropped to 80% for a second. I'm currently running at my original settings, since I'm not sure what affect changing my ram CR will have.

OK, so, what am I missing here?

You're clocked at 4.8, and I noticed your ram timings are much tighter then mine.

I've also noticed you're OC'ing using FSB.

So is it a combination of FSB oc, and brute force (aka CPU @ 4.8)?

Also, since I'm not used to benching, are my results poor? Or to be expected for the settings?


----------



## Mega Man

the difference really is time

i spent months doing this, extreme ocing, you need to take more time, you are jumping in to the deep end and expecting not to fail, you never learn from success, i will tell you what i tell everyone i need to see your bios. if all you are doing is pushing cpu/nb volts, then yea your doing it wrong, depending on what you are doing it can take more nb, vcore, ram volts ect


----------



## Sev501

Hey guys, I've tried to play with FSB + multi oc'ing and have noticed that it was tad snappier to what my just multiplier oc does (League of Legends loads faster now, and exits a match to the summary screen almost instantly) but there is a concern that I want to ask...

Under load my cpu (8350) remains to what I've specified for the oc to be 4.515Ghz @ 1.38v (thank chip gods it's stable with a manageable heat output even when it's summer here). And to my best tried to match my rams default 1600mhz rating as close as possible.

But when it's IDLE it plays from 1.47 - 4.5ghz just quick bursts to those and back again... Is this normal? Have some of the power saving modes enabled after testing the stability (don't want to eat alot of power every time haha although the chip is power hungry).
APM is turned off and HPC is turned on. As for voltages I have used the dynamic voltage offset so that CnQ would work as well.

I've included some of my settings here:


Spoiler: CPU Frequencies page:









Spoiler: Voltages page:









Spoiler: Advance CPU features:







Also one last thing I've clearly set up to run 4.5 Ghz on bios but whenever I try to use or view the system information via F9 button in bios and logo screen it says am only at 4.3ghz? Is this normal?


Spoiler: This:







Hoping for your enlightening inputs!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## M3TAl

Who me? I'm at 4.95 GHz. It's a combination of everything for memory performance. Clock speed, memory speed, memory timings, and CPU-NB. They all have direct affect on memory bandwidth.

FSB in itself doesn't have much affect in scores, although there are those who argue certain apps/benches run better with high FSB as oppsoed to stock 200 even if the clock speed is the same.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> save up and get a 3930/4930k from OCN atm there is a RIVE on sale too for cheap
> 
> if you go intel, at least do it right and not sidegrade


I'll check it out, but, I'm not going to be able to get away with spending close to that kind of money. I mean, the one I was looking at, would end up $550ish with a good mobo.

But yea, I don't feel like a i7 4770k is a huge step up. I just think that some of the games I like will benefit from it. I could be 100% wrong, and if that's the case, I guess I'll make sure to post videos of it.


----------



## M3TAl

Well if you sell that 8320 and UD5 that'll help with a 3930/4930K. Especially a used one.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the difference really is time
> 
> i spent months doing this, extreme ocing, you need to take more time, you are jumping in to the deep end and expecting not to fail, you never learn from success, i will tell you what i tell everyone i need to see your bios. if all you are doing is pushing cpu/nb volts, then yea your doing it wrong, depending on what you are doing it can take more nb, vcore, ram volts ect


Yea, I definitely hit parts where I'm not sure the next step. I'm also fearful of burning my system up by having something not monitored adjusted.

OK, I'm just going to leave this Prime95 running over night. It's my previous settings, but, I had altered CR from 2 to 1 on my ram. See what happens with that.

I've got to crash out though, have to be up in like 4 hours.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sev501*
> 
> Hey guys, I've tried to play with FSB + multi oc'ing and have noticed that it was tad snappier to what my just multiplier oc does (League of Legends loads faster now, and exits a match to the summary screen almost instantly) but there is a concern that I want to ask...
> 
> Under load my cpu (8350) remains to what I've specified for the oc to be 4.515Ghz @ 1.38v (thank chip gods it's stable with a manageable heat output even when it's summer here). And to my best tried to match my rams default 1600mhz rating as close as possible.
> 
> But when it's IDLE it plays from 1.47 - 4.5ghz just quick bursts to those and back again... Is this normal? Have some of the power saving modes enabled after testing the stability (don't want to eat alot of power every time haha although the chip is power hungry).
> APM is turned off and HPC is turned on. As for voltages I have used the dynamic voltage offset so that CnQ would work as well.
> 
> I've included some of my settings here:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: CPU Frequencies page:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Voltages page:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Advance CPU features:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also one last thing I've clearly set up to run 4.5 Ghz on bios but whenever I try to use or view the system information via F9 button in bios and logo screen it says am only at 4.3ghz? Is this normal?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: This:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping for your enlightening inputs!
> 
> Thanks in advance!


sounds like cnq is working ( fluctuating speed ) i would be willing to bet you can see the vcore fluctuation if you download hwinfo64

one possible thing i have heard works is to shut off hpc, ( you may have to change settings in this stage, i never have had that problem ) save and reboot, then turn it back on and reboot if you do have any stability issues you can always bump nb volts to 1.2

also you can take screens directly from bios using a fat32 formatted usb stick, unless giga skimped on that


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well if you sell that 8320 and UD5 that'll help with a 3930/4930K. Especially a used one.


Yea, I thought about selling it. At the same time, I hate parting with it, considering it makes a good back up, and, would be a kick back up computer.

Anyway, I'll figure that out later, I'm about to pass out.


----------



## M3TAl

Well give it your girl and sell the 6300 and 970A-UD3?


----------



## Sev501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like cnq is working ( fluctuating speed ) i would be willing to bet you can see the vcore fluctuation if you download hwinfo64
> 
> one possible thing i have heard works is to shut off hpc, ( you may have to change settings in this stage, i never have had that problem ) save and reboot, then turn it back on and reboot if you do have any stability issues you can always bump nb volts to 1.2
> 
> also you can take screens directly from bios using a fat32 formatted usb stick, unless giga skimped on that


Ahh there we go, yea I use hwinfo64 and voltages on vcore fluctuates. So I'll try and turn off HPC save and exit and then enable and save and exit , do I need to let windows load inbetween resets? Or a quick del to bios will do?


----------



## M3TAl

Are you just worried about clock fluctuations at idle? If so then either keep your power plan on power saver (~1500 MHz) or high performance (your ~4.5 GHz OC). Balanced plan will let it jump around from 1500 to your max OC unless you change the % in the advanced settings. My balanced plan actually maxes at ~3.8 GHz because its set to 90% or something like that.


----------



## Sev501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are you just worried about clock fluctuations at idle? If so then either keep your power plan on power saver (~1500 MHz) or high performance (your ~4.5 GHz OC). Balanced plan will let it jump around from 1500 to your max OC unless you change the % in the advanced settings. My balanced plan actually maxes at ~3.8 GHz because its set to 90% or something like that.


Actually yeah I'm running on balanced plan, so this fluctuations are normal? (due to the power savers right?) It won't harm my computer as long as I am stable and no crashes and weird stuff going on?


----------



## M3TAl

It's perfectly normal for balanced plan to do that and is the intended effect with Cool and Quiet enabled.


----------



## Sev501

Thanks guys, quite happy with my amd purchase







time to save up on a new ram to replace this temporary 1 stick of 4gb crucials...

Any differences with 4sticks vs. 2 sticks of 8/16gb ram besides stress on the IMC?


----------



## M3TAl

Yes there is a difference. 4 sticks typically requires more voltage on the CPU-NB. How much more depends on various things like the specific CPU (good or bad clocker), the OC on the CPU-NB, maybe the density of the RAM too.


----------



## Sev501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Yes there is a difference. 4 sticks typically requires more voltage on the CPU-NB. How much more depends on various things like the specific CPU (good or bad clocker), the OC on the CPU-NB, maybe the density of the RAM too.


Alright more to consider, might prolly look at a good 16gb 2x8 kit.. Hehe, even now as a non lurker from reading page one to this. I'm still learning a ton of things from you guys,

Thanks a bunch!


----------



## M3TAl

Just for reference my system requires +0.075V on CPU-NB @2475MHz with 2x4GB sticks. If I put 4x4GB sticks in then it requires around +0.125-+0.150V for CPU-NB @2475MHz.

Your mileage (kilometerage? lol) may vary.


----------



## mus1mus

Mine is on 2500 with +0.100 on CPU-NB.

But I gotta say, it also depends on the clocks of the Core. At 4.5, +0.100. Go to 4.75, CPU-NB now requires +0.150..

The trend is dependent on how much you are pushing both the Core and the NB Core.

That is the downside on Combination OC. Even the RAM requires a bit more juice the higher the Core clocks push it...

An even the NorthBridge or the HT Link..


----------



## Chargeit

I ran Prime95 for 9 and a half hours. Passed. This was at my previous settings, with my ram CR changed from 2 to 1.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well give it your girl and sell the 6300 and 970A-UD3?


I asked her about that, and she said she's happy with what she has.

With as cool as that FX 6300 runs, I agree that she should keep it. I wanted to pull the 970a-ud3, and put in my 990FXA-UD5. I might still do that anyway. Though, if for some odd reason, it did develop a issues after that... So, I'll just leave it. Women generally aren't as concerned about performance and numbers.

Her game runs great on it.

*I was going to sell my mobo/CPU here, but, I was told I couldn't post about selling it. Which I didn't even think of. I'm all about giving good deals also, so, very fairly priced. Still, the idea of parting with my CPU/mobo, kind of sucks.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I ran Prime95 for 9 and a half hours. Passed. This was at my previous settings, with my ram CR changed from 2 to 1.


** I just ran intelBurn test, and failed on the 10th pass. I had been able to run without a problem before. So, that CR change has caused some instability. I'm going to push it back, and mess with it more later, since I'm not sure what to do next on this.

I adjusted my CR back to 2, and now I can pass intelburn test.

*I didn't mean to quote that.

*Oh one odd thing I've noticed. Since In reinstalled this GTX 780, my blacks aren't crushed. I said months back that this Nvidia card crushed blacks, and the AMD one doesn't. Nothing I did could fix that. This is the first time I've put in the GPU without fully reinstalling the OS though. It's just something odd I've noticed. I mean, I'm happy about that, but, it was unexpected.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well give it your girl and sell the 6300 and 970A-UD3?
> 
> 
> 
> I asked her about that, and she said she's happy with what she has.
> 
> With as cool as that FX 6300 runs, I agree that she should keep it. I wanted to pull the 970a-ud3, and put in my 990FXA-UD5. I might still do that anyway. Though, if for some odd reason, it did develop a issues after that... So, I'll just leave it. Women generally aren't as concerned about performance and numbers.
> 
> Her game runs great on it.
> 
> *I was going to sell my mobo/CPU here, but, I was told I couldn't post about selling it. Which I didn't even think of. I'm all about giving good deals also, so, very fairly priced. Still, the idea of parting with my CPU/mobo, kind of sucks.
Click to expand...

35 reps protecting the buyers
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I ran Prime95 for 9 and a half hours. Passed. This was at my previous settings, with my ram CR changed from 2 to 1.
> 
> 
> 
> ** I just ran intelBurn test, and failed on the 10th pass. I had been able to run without a problem before. So, that CR change has caused some instability. I'm going to push it back, and mess with it more later, since I'm not sure what to do next on this.
> 
> I adjusted my CR back to 2, and now I can pass intelburn test.
> 
> *I didn't mean to quote that.
> 
> *Oh one odd thing I've noticed. Since In reinstalled this GTX 780, my blacks aren't crushed. I said months back that this Nvidia card crushed blacks, and the AMD one doesn't. Nothing I did could fix that. This is the first time I've put in the GPU without fully reinstalling the OS though. It's just something odd I've noticed. I mean, I'm happy about that, but, it was unexpected.
Click to expand...

you may need more vcore cpu/nb or nb it is normal that ibtavx takes more volts


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, the 35 rep thing kind of sucks in my case. I'm not big on ebay, and craigslist you have to deal with craigslist weirdo's window shopping. But, like I said, it isn't a huge deal, and, I'd be content with just keeping it for possible later use, and hording.

Cool, yea, I'll give it a go. Not tonight though, I can't hear myself think when stress testing (dang H100i fans in performance mode).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 35 reps protecting the buyers
> you may need more vcore cpu/nb or nb it is normal that ibtavx takes more volts


Or moar RAM volts as well.

Pushing the CPU-NB Frequency pushes your RAM as well so gotta back that up with Voltage.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 35 reps protecting the buyers
> you may need more vcore cpu/nb or nb it is normal that ibtavx takes more volts
> 
> 
> 
> Or moar RAM volts as well.
> 
> Pushing the CPU-NB Frequency pushes your RAM as well so gotta back that up with Voltage.
Click to expand...

i personally never had that issue


----------



## Duality92

to be part of the club!









http://valid.canardpc.com/9ai330


----------



## istudy92

Hey guys I need help.

I cannot get windows 7, 8 or any windows to install into any of my HHD, nor brand new SSD, nor a used SSD.

I am convinced this is a BIOS issue from UD3- rev 3.

Every time I format the ssd it says
"setup was unable to create a new system partition or locate an existing system partition see setup log files for more information"

I see this error with ALL my harddrives and ssd.

I have done diskpart clean and NOTHING works.

Someone know how to trouble shot this?

I have taken out battery from BIOS as well to restart it.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Hey guys I need help.
> 
> I cannot get windows 7, 8 or any windows to install into any of my HHD, nor brand new SSD, nor a used SSD.
> 
> I am convinced this is a BIOS issue from UD3- rev 3.
> 
> Every time I format the ssd it says
> "setup was unable to create a new system partition or locate an existing system partition see setup log files for more information"
> 
> I see this error with ALL my harddrives and ssd.
> 
> I have done diskpart clean and NOTHING works.
> 
> Someone know how to trouble shot this?
> 
> I have taken out battery from BIOS as well to restart it.


just thinking out loud,
does the board have adequate power supplied to it, wait can you get into bios before the install? does it recognize the drives? what kinda of USB connections do you have plugged in during this, I know that sounds off but some one just had an issue where they lost key board but when they unplugged something (USB) it resolved itself . try one of the sata connections that is not controlled by the south bridge NVM you don't have one on the UD3


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Hey guys I need help.
> 
> I cannot get windows 7, 8 or any windows to install into any of my HHD, nor brand new SSD, nor a used SSD.
> 
> I am convinced this is a BIOS issue from UD3- rev 3.
> 
> Every time I format the ssd it says
> "setup was unable to create a new system partition or locate an existing system partition see setup log files for more information"
> 
> I see this error with ALL my harddrives and ssd.
> 
> I have done diskpart clean and NOTHING works.
> 
> Someone know how to trouble shot this?
> 
> I have taken out battery from BIOS as well to restart it.


maybe change the OS type setting in the BIOS.I have a rev4 so my BIOS is a little different.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> does the board have adequate power supplied to it, wait can you get into bios before the install? does it recognize the drives? what kinda of USB connections do you have plugged in during this, I know that sounds off but some one just had an issue where they lost key board but when they unplugged something (USB) it resolved itself . try one of the sata connections that is not controlled by the south bridge


I have my keyboard and mouse connected. I can get into BIOS. I have changed ACHI to IDE, IDE to ACHI. I have done alot of bios crap but idk what crap may be affecting it (If at all affecting this installation process.)
And what do you mean sata connections not controlled by south bridge?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> maybe change the OS type setting in the BIOS.I have a rev4 so my BIOS is a little different.


I have done that it does not work.
All it shows is windows 8 or "other" OS both dont work

I still get unable to make new system partition or locate an existing system partition.
My SSD shows up on screen, I format, delete, new, yet it still cant install windows on it.

I regret getting this board its beyond my anger limits.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> And what do you mean sata connections not controlled by south bridge?
> 
> I regret getting this board its beyond my anger limits.


I have a UD7 some of the boards have 8 sata connectors onboard 6 are controlledby the south and 2 are controlled by a stand alone chip on the board.

"I regret getting this board its beyond my anger limits" I had the same thought and picked up a Sabertooth.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> I have my keyboard and mouse connected. I can get into BIOS. I have changed ACHI to IDE, IDE to ACHI. I have done alot of bios crap but idk what crap may be affecting it (If at all affecting this installation process.)
> And what do you mean sata connections not controlled by south bridge?
> I have done that it does not work.
> All it shows is windows 8 or "other" OS both dont work
> 
> I still get unable to make new system partition or locate an existing system partition.
> My SSD shows up on screen, I format, delete, new, yet it still cant install windows on it.
> 
> I regret getting this board its beyond my anger limits.


Back in the days of my Intel Pentium 4 and Socket A AMD, I get those kinds of errors.
Maybe a little different but they all boil down to these;

Memory!
CPU OC!
Power Cables!

Bring the bios to stock setting only changing the boot drive sequence and try..

Check your hardware. Loose cables can cause that as well.

I might also try reinstalling or flashing the MOBO Bios..
But that should be the last one I'd do.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Back in the days of my Intel Pentium 4 and Socket A AMD, I get those kinds of errors.
> Maybe a little different but they all boil down to these;
> 
> Memory!
> CPU OC!
> Power Cables!
> 
> Bring the bios to stock setting only changing the boot drive sequence and try..
> 
> Check your hardware. Loose cables can cause that as well.
> 
> I might also try reinstalling or flashing the MOBO Bios..
> But that should be the last one I'd do.


going straight to flashing mobo (iv reset OC, my memory fine did mem check before SSD failed.) Keep u all posted on this PIECE OF JUNK UD3.
laksjdlkasjdkasjld
I want my gosh dam money back


----------



## istudy92

Flashed BIOS and updated it.

It did not work.


----------



## M3TAl

I've had this problem before where windows setup won't find/create a partition. For me the problem was always having something plugged into USB 3.0.

To make sure that's not the problem disconnect everything from USB. If your mouse and keyboard are USB make sure they're in USB 2.0.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've had this problem before where windows setup won't find/create a partition. For me the problem was always having something plugged into USB 3.0.
> 
> To make sure that's not the problem disconnect everything from USB. If your mouse and keyboard are USB make sure they're in USB 2.0.


Using a 3.0 USB boot would not matter with 2.0 USB right so long its on USB 2.0 port correct? because I have in the past attempted 2.0 boot USB but ALWAYS in 2.0 port.

I will try 2.0 USB though


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've had this problem before where windows setup won't find/create a partition. For me the problem was always having something plugged into USB 3.0.
> 
> To make sure that's not the problem disconnect everything from USB. If your mouse and keyboard are USB make sure they're in USB 2.0.


Hey, when I made my ol'ladys system, I at first tried to use the usb 3.0 to install off of. It gave me issues, something about not finding the drivers. It took me a min to realize that the top ports were USB 3.0 on her system. I moved to the rear USB 2.0 ports, and it worked like a charm.


----------



## M3TAl

Ya I don't have a DVD drive so I use a 4GB flash. Everytime it ends up in a USB 3.0 port it causes nothing but problems. Took 1-2 hours of hair pulling to figure this out the first time.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Hey guys I need help.
> 
> I cannot get windows 7, 8 or any windows to install into any of my HHD, nor brand new SSD, nor a used SSD.
> 
> I am convinced this is a BIOS issue from UD3- rev 3.
> 
> Every time I format the ssd it says
> "setup was unable to create a new system partition or locate an existing system partition see setup log files for more information"
> 
> I see this error with ALL my harddrives and ssd.
> 
> I have done diskpart clean and NOTHING works.
> 
> Someone know how to trouble shot this?
> 
> I have taken out battery from BIOS as well to restart it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> does the board have adequate power supplied to it, wait can you get into bios before the install? does it recognize the drives? what kinda of USB connections do you have plugged in during this, I know that sounds off but some one just had an issue where they lost key board but when they unplugged something (USB) it resolved itself . try one of the sata connections that is not controlled by the south bridge
> 
> 
> 
> I have my keyboard and mouse connected. I can get into BIOS. I have changed ACHI to IDE, IDE to ACHI. I have done alot of bios crap but idk what crap may be affecting it (If at all affecting this installation process.)
> And what do you mean sata connections not controlled by south bridge?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> maybe change the OS type setting in the BIOS.I have a rev4 so my BIOS is a little different.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have done that it does not work.
> All it shows is windows 8 or "other" OS both dont work
> 
> I still get unable to make new system partition or locate an existing system partition.
> My SSD shows up on screen, I format, delete, new, yet it still cant install windows on it.
> 
> I regret getting this board its beyond my anger limits.
Click to expand...

calm down, you only think less when angered ( everyone )

i do not think this has anything to do with your board, it happens to me every board including on my intels.

it sounds to me like you have another HD with a OS on the system.

what i have to do to make it work is to unplug ALL OTHER HARDDRIVES but the one i am trying to install on

if i am wrong let me know and ill try to help further, feel free to pm me


----------



## Duality92

This is my tl;dr version of my last experience when trying to format.

me trying to install windows, 10pm, working at 8am, still good.
11pm, somethings not right with this new system
12am, what the hell is wrong, it just won't boot from the usb key or dvd drive!
1am, SERIOUSLY LET'S GO I'M WORKING TOMORROW
2am, this is just riduculous, I don't understand
3am, room mate is laughing at me, I snap my keyboard on the arm rest of my chair, a key flies behind my tower, I pick it up only to see that there was another USB key that my PC was trying to boot from. QQ (was only a confort curve 3000)


----------



## M3TAl

LOL. I've yet to break anything while raging due to the PC, yet. Sure beat the crap out of the desk a few times but it's thick wood so it can take it


----------



## istudy92

I have done on rear 2.0 i learned the hard way back when I 1st bulit my PC in the summer lol never again..3 hours of noob misery!! ha
Now im in like..unknown misery, where I know im avoiding all the noob things..but something isnt right...just..something..is fishy...>.>


----------



## istudy92

Guess what guys I fixed it.

Guess what was the issue?? WANT TO KNOW WHAT THE ISSUE WAS GUYS?!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



It would not boot using my 3.0 USB...YET when I put the ISO on the 2.0 it WORKS!!!!!!!!!!
WTH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! why would this be!? This is CRAZYYYYYYYYYYYY. sigh...deppressing..


----------



## M3TAl

See. USB 3.0 is a no-no during Windows install. I think it has something to do with the Windows install software not having the proper driver support for USB 3.0.


----------



## The Andoxico

Does the UD3 version perform well with all the DIMM slots being used? I've heard some boards don't and I'm wondering how many sticks of RAM to buy.


----------



## Duality92

I had 4 before I sold 2 sticks, ran fine, good overclock too. (with rev 4)


----------



## M3TAl

I switch between 2 and 4 sticks sometimes because BF4 used to stutter like crazy with 8GB RAM. Ran smooth with 16GB. Only thing is the red Mushkins don't match color of build at all and requires more voltage on CPU-NB.


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Guess what guys I fixed it.
> 
> Guess what was the issue?? WANT TO KNOW WHAT THE ISSUE WAS GUYS?!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It would not boot using my 3.0 USB...YET when I put the ISO on the 2.0 it WORKS!!!!!!!!!!
> WTH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! why would this be!? This is CRAZYYYYYYYYYYYY. sigh...deppressing..


see that, something to do with the USB, ....3.0 I can understand that as the drivers have yet to be installed. Glad you got it going. it would be great if I could just remember these little tid bits of info.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> see that, something to do with the USB, ....3.0 I can understand that as the drivers have yet to be installed. Glad you got it going. it would be great if I could just remember these little tid bits of info.


I am somewhat embarressed by the fact that I posted "I have avoided all *noob* possible problems" yet...3.0 got to me, the actual USB and not port sigh.

Good thing is each day is a learning day!! Thanks to OCN and the community=]


----------



## Duality92

That's how knowledge is acquired


----------



## hagtek

Good to know I'm not the only one who's experienced usb 3.0 issues during OS installs.


----------



## SubFocused

So I have ran the UD3 since October '13 and have not had any issues until yesterday. I was hanging in my room jammin to my favorite drum and bass pandora station and out of nowhere the audio went super distorted and staticky... Thought maybe pandora was screwed up so I closed the app and as soon as I closed the app the OS froze. It wasn't a complete lock up because I was still getting feedback from the SSD and HDD but explorer wouldn't recover so I did a hard shutdown. No BSOD or anything just the windows error saying it didn't shut down properly. Once back in windows I didn't recieve any driver errors or the "windows had just recovers from a serious error".... Nothing. Loaded up pandora again it was fine for hours. Later on I fired up BF4 and about 45 minutes in to a game it happened again. Had to force the shutdown again. After some quick googling, i discovered a few possibilities... The main one I found was HDD/SSD issues... I was confident that wasn't the problem, but I ran some tests anyways. All my storage was legit. Next step was drivers. I uninstalled and reinstalled audio/graphics drivers cleanly. 30 min into my next BF4 session it happened again. So I did some further research and discovered that voltage might be an issue. I'm not majorly overclocked. I'm running an fx6300 at 4.1 which is the "boost" clock for this turd and everything I've read says stock voltage for "forcing" the boost clock is more than enough. But just to test things out I went one step up on the vcore, NB core, and NB voltage. So now I'm at 1.2725 on the vcore, 1.225 on the NB core and 1.125 on the NB voltage. I finished off the night with about 2 hours of BF and about an hour of CS and have had no further issues. The only major changes I've made to the rig in the past few days is completing my WC setup. So I've added a pump/resi and 2 more fans for the 2nd rad. The only thing I can think of is that the power supply/mobo doesn't play nice when adding more load to the psu. I have a cx750 and everything at full load it barely touches 600w. Just wanted to put this out there, and will post again if I run in to more problems in the future. Any insight is appreciated though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SubFocused*
> 
> So I have ran the UD3 since October '13 and have not had any issues until yesterday. I was hanging in my room jammin to my favorite drum and bass pandora station and out of nowhere the audio went super distorted and staticky... Thought maybe pandora was screwed up so I closed the app and as soon as I closed the app the OS froze. It wasn't a complete lock up because I was still getting feedback from the SSD and HDD but explorer wouldn't recover so I did a hard shutdown. No BSOD or anything just the windows error saying it didn't shut down properly. Once back in windows I didn't recieve any driver errors or the "windows had just recovers from a serious error".... Nothing. Loaded up pandora again it was fine for hours. Later on I fired up BF4 and about 45 minutes in to a game it happened again. Had to force the shutdown again. After some quick googling, i discovered a few possibilities... The main one I found was HDD/SSD issues... I was confident that wasn't the problem, but I ran some tests anyways. All my storage was legit. Next step was drivers. I uninstalled and reinstalled audio/graphics drivers cleanly. 30 min into my next BF4 session it happened again. So I did some further research and discovered that voltage might be an issue. I'm not majorly overclocked. I'm running an fx6300 at 4.1 which is the "boost" clock for this turd and everything I've read says stock voltage for "forcing" the boost clock is more than enough. But just to test things out I went one step up on the vcore, NB core, and NB voltage. So now I'm at 1.2725 on the vcore, 1.225 on the NB core and 1.125 on the NB voltage. I finished off the night with about 2 hours of BF and about an hour of CS and have had no further issues. The only major changes I've made to the rig in the past few days is completing my WC setup. So I've added a pump/resi and 2 more fans for the 2nd rad. The only thing I can think of is that the power supply/mobo doesn't play nice when adding more load to the psu. I have a cx750 and everything at full load it barely touches 600w. Just wanted to put this out there, and will post again if I run in to more problems in the future. Any insight is appreciated though.


my advice start at the begining, and you need to test your stability
'
ibt-avx ( see first post of the 83xx club in my sig ) and prime95 @ 90%+ mem useage


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 6
Click to expand...


----------



## SubFocused

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my advice start at the begining, and you need to test your stability
> '
> ibt-avx ( see first post of the 83xx club in my sig ) and prime95 @ 90%+ mem useage


Thanks! Good points there.


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SubFocused*
> 
> So I have ran the UD3 since October '13 and have not had any issues until yesterday. I was hanging in my room jammin to my favorite drum and bass pandora station and out of nowhere the audio went super distorted and staticky... Thought maybe pandora was screwed up so I closed the app and as soon as I closed the app the OS froze. It wasn't a complete lock up because I was still getting feedback from the SSD and HDD but explorer wouldn't recover so I did a hard shutdown. No BSOD or anything just the windows error saying it didn't shut down properly. Once back in windows I didn't recieve any driver errors or the "windows had just recovers from a serious error".... Nothing. Loaded up pandora again it was fine for hours. Later on I fired up BF4 and about 45 minutes in to a game it happened again. Had to force the shutdown again. After some quick googling, i discovered a few possibilities... The main one I found was HDD/SSD issues... I was confident that wasn't the problem, but I ran some tests anyways. All my storage was legit. Next step was drivers. I uninstalled and reinstalled audio/graphics drivers cleanly. 30 min into my next BF4 session it happened again. So I did some further research and discovered that voltage might be an issue. I'm not majorly overclocked. I'm running an fx6300 at 4.1 which is the "boost" clock for this turd and everything I've read says stock voltage for "forcing" the boost clock is more than enough. But just to test things out I went one step up on the vcore, NB core, and NB voltage. So now I'm at 1.2725 on the vcore, 1.225 on the NB core and 1.125 on the NB voltage. I finished off the night with about 2 hours of BF and about an hour of CS and have had no further issues. The only major changes I've made to the rig in the past few days is completing my WC setup. So I've added a pump/resi and 2 more fans for the 2nd rad. The only thing I can think of is that the power supply/mobo doesn't play nice when adding more load to the psu. I have a cx750 and everything at full load it barely touches 600w. Just wanted to put this out there, and will post again if I run in to more problems in the future. Any insight is appreciated though.


Please check your SSD/ HDD it may possibly be an issue as much as you may not want to believe/like it.

My ssd failed and yet it had no signs of failing except stupid hicups. (back up all your important files from SSD)

Mine took around 1 month to fail after I noticed such examples that you stated.
Although not all cases are the same its just a heads up so you dont lose important things like I did=/


----------



## Alxz

Today my UD5 died i think ;-;

I can't even enter to BIOS, its stuck at the splash screen ("GIGABYTE insist on ultradurable"); i tried clearing the CMOS but it didn't made any difference







, tried rams, psu, hdds, vga and still can't pass that screen...

aw


----------



## Duality92

processor?


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> processor?


that was for me?
fx 6300; tested on an other mobo and worked.


----------



## Duality92

Can you get into bios at all, or it literally freezes before post?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Today my UD5 died i think ;-;
> 
> I can't even enter to BIOS, its stuck at the splash screen ("GIGABYTE insist on ultradurable"); i tried clearing the CMOS but it didn't made any difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , tried rams, psu, hdds, vga and still can't pass that screen...
> 
> aw


That's not good. You've pretty much tested everything. Can you see any physical damage to the board itself? Warping around VRM or burn marks?


----------



## SubFocused

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Please check your SSD/ HDD it may possibly be an issue as much as you may not want to believe/like it.
> 
> My ssd failed and yet it had no signs of failing except stupid hicups. (back up all your important files from SSD)
> 
> Mine took around 1 month to fail after I noticed such examples that you stated.
> Although not all cases are the same its just a heads up so you dont lose important things like I did=/


Roger Roger,
I did, all systems go!

"...ran some tests anyways. All my storage is legit."

Meaning, I found no problems with my SSDs/HDD.

Come to find out, i should have done some more reading before I just forced the boost clock. I guess when you disable core boost it lowers the voltage to the boards minimum setting. Which from what I found, with core boost enabled with the 6300, the voltage hangs around 1.36 whereas its 1.25 with core boost disabled. So even stepping up to 1.27 wasn't enough, and in turn surprises me that I've not had issues prior to this.


----------



## M3TAl

So it posts now? Thought you cleared CMOS and it still wouldn't post, which typically means some serious problems.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Today my UD5 died i think ;-;
> 
> I can't even enter to BIOS, its stuck at the splash screen ("GIGABYTE insist on ultradurable"); i tried clearing the CMOS but it didn't made any difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , tried rams, psu, hdds, vga and still can't pass that screen...
> 
> aw


Do you have any Motherboard speaker to attach to the board? One simple instrument but can give you enough knowledge on how to diagnose a system.

If you happen to have a speaker attached, listen for the BEEEP. If it does BEEP, you still have a MOBO.

If there's no BEEP, that's a serious problem. But since you said you are at the Splash Screen, I don't think a damaged board can get you to the Splash Screen.

My hunch, BIOS got corrupted. And DUAL Bios got screwed that it will not post using the back-up.

If your CPU got tested on another mobo and is fine, try your RAMS as well. And your keyboard.

Lastly, hope for an RMA..


----------



## DarkJoney

Hey Guys, I need our help with Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5. I have 8320 CPU and 8GB 1stick of Kingston HyperX Blu 1600. I can't setup full clock for my ram, I set "8.0" 1600 in BIOS but it's still says it's 1333.
What's wrong?


----------



## M3TAl

Make sure the timings are set correctly and the voltage. Seems like the memory is failing at post and reverting back to 1333.


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Make sure the timings are set correctly and the voltage. Seems like the memory is failing at post and reverting back to 1333.


On my prev. ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0 I just needed to set clock, and it's worked in 1600. I can get settings from Kingston's site?


----------



## DarkJoney

Nope, voltage was same as specs, I set timings, still nothing.


----------



## DarkJoney

P.S BIOS ver. - FE, Mobo - rev 3.0


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> Nope, voltage was same as specs, I set timings, still nothing.


If your using one stick, Turn Rank interleave on, and channel interleave off...

You are loosing a whole channel worth of bandwidth with one stick and I'm sure you know that, With that having been said, bee sure your in slot 1 of channel A.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Do you have any Motherboard speaker to attach to the board? One simple instrument but can give you enough knowledge on how to diagnose a system.
> 
> If you happen to have a speaker attached, listen for the BEEEP. If it does BEEP, you still have a MOBO.
> 
> If there's no BEEP, that's a serious problem. But since you said you are at the Splash Screen, I don't think a damaged board can get you to the Splash Screen.
> 
> My hunch, BIOS got corrupted. And DUAL Bios got screwed that it will not post using the back-up.
> 
> If your CPU got tested on another mobo and is fine, try your RAMS as well. And your keyboard.
> 
> Lastly, hope for an RMA..


Thanks for your reply!
But yeah, i attached a speaker on the MOBO and there was a beep before getting stuck at the spalsh screen but nothing more







. How can i fix a corrupted bios with its dual bios dead aswell >:? (cpu, rams and keyboard are working fine)


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> If your using one stick, Turn Rank interleave on, and channel interleave off...
> 
> You are loosing a whole channel worth of bandwidth with one stick and I'm sure you know that, With that having been said, bee sure your in slot 1 of channel A.


Thank you for reply, it's true, I have 1 stick. I will add one later. I will try this now, they will post resuilt.


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> If your using one stick, Turn Rank interleave on, and channel interleave off...
> 
> You are loosing a whole channel worth of bandwidth with one stick and I'm sure you know that, With that having been said, bee sure your in slot 1 of channel A.


Well, dont work. Set timing and this things how you said. Still 1333


Stick in 1st slot at left around CPU, it's channel A, right?
Maybe I should press something, not only F10?


----------



## Chargeit

Hey, $65 bucks for a 128gb SanDisk SSD on newegg.

Not sure how great they are, but, for 65 bucks, sounds like a good deal.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820171646


----------



## M3TAl

A pair of hockey skates comes before any computer related purchases for me. I'll get an SSD one day, the prices are definitely getting more and more attractive.

PS: yes, I'm poor.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hey, $65 bucks for a 128gb SanDisk SSD on newegg.
> 
> Not sure how great they are, but, for 65 bucks, sounds like a good deal.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820171646


I have the 240 GB version of these on our workstations.. Performs less than my 120 GB Crucial M500 on both READ and WRITE. So my hunch is that the 120 GB will perform worse.

But for the price, hmmmm


----------



## Chargeit

Dude, for $65 bucks, I'd get one if I weren't getting that CPU / mobo next week. I'd use it for open world games or something.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Thanks for your reply!
> But yeah, i attached a speaker on the MOBO and there was a beep before getting stuck at the spalsh screen but nothing more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . How can i fix a corrupted bios with its dual bios dead aswell >:? (cpu, rams and keyboard are working fine)


Please give a description of the BEEP you hear.

Is it Bip? Beeeeeeeep _ Beeeeeeeep _ Beeeeeeeep? or Bip-bebeep-bebeep-bep?

Sorry for being too subjective and sounding dumb, but these are important things for you.

A quick Beep - Normal

Other else, be warned.

And yeah, can you try hitting F7 as soon as you hear the Beep? If so, where does that take you?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Dude, for $65 bucks, I'd get one if I weren't getting that CPU / mobo next week. I'd use it for open world games or something.


Just saying don't be too fast on diving into SanDisks unless their Ultra Series.

My Crucial M500 has a *Read of 450 MB/s* and a Write of less than a traditional Hard Drives at 120MB/s. But that 240 GB Sandisk has worse speeds. How much more for the 120 GB? I have no idea but I can say it would be worse than their 240s.

As a reference, Samsung 840 Pros has 520 MB/s Read/Write speeds.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just saying don't be too fast on diving into SanDisks unless their Ultra Series.
> 
> My Crucial M500 has a *Read of 450 MB/s* and a Write of less than a traditional Hard Drives at 120MB/s. But that 240 GB Sandisk has worse speeds. How much more for the 120 GB? I have no idea but I can say it would be worse than their 240s.
> 
> As a reference, Samsung 840 Pros has 520 MB/s Read/Write speeds.


Ah, got you.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Please give a description of the BEEP you hear.
> 
> Is it Bip? Beeeeeeeep _ Beeeeeeeep _ Beeeeeeeep? or Bip-bebeep-bebeep-bep?
> 
> Sorry for being too subjective and sounding dumb, but these are important things for you.
> 
> A quick Beep - Normal
> 
> Other else, be warned.
> 
> And yeah, can you try hitting F7 as soon as you hear the Beep? If so, where does that take you?


thanks! Yeah, its just a quick beep; but i can't really do anything.

I tried with f8, del, esc, f7, etc without any luck (is just a black screen after trying to enter qflash); even after clearing the CMOS, i must choose between "loading default bios and boot" ,"loading default bios and reboot", "enter bios" but i must choose one of those quickly or the keyboard would stop working few seconds after the selection screen (any of those didn't made any change by the way).

When trying to load bios at the splash screen it doesn't do anything ( i tried with my USB keyboard and a PS2 old one, both of them work properly)


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just saying don't be too fast on diving into SanDisks unless their Ultra Series.
> 
> My Crucial M500 has a *Read of 450 MB/s* and a Write of less than a traditional Hard Drives at 120MB/s. But that 240 GB Sandisk has worse speeds. How much more for the 120 GB? I have no idea but I can say it would be worse than their 240s.
> 
> As a reference, Samsung 840 Pros has 520 MB/s Read/Write speeds.


But any SSD should destroy mechanical drive in IOPS.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> thanks! Yeah, its just a quick beep; but i can't really do anything.
> 
> I tried with f8, del, esc, f7, etc without any luck (is just a black screen after trying to enter qflash); even after clearing the CMOS, i must choose between "loading default bios and boot" ,"loading default bios and reboot", "enter bios" but i must choose one of those quickly or the keyboard would stop working few seconds after the selection screen (any of those didn't made any change by the way).
> 
> When trying to load bios at the splash screen it doesn't do anything ( i tried with my USB keyboard and a PS2 old one, both of them work properly)


RMA??


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> But any SSD should destroy mechanical drive in IOPS.


I'd think so.

To be honest, the write speed isn't really that important once you've got things installed. Considering it's a 128gb SSD, you'd have the OS, and main programs on it, with the odd ball game maybe. The main advantage of a SSD is the IOPS.

*I still think the drive would be worth $65 if you didn't already have a SSD. Though, I'd personally drop more, on a better SSD.

this normal Samsung evo has a read up to 510, write up to 410, and IOPS up to 94k. Though it benchmarks lower, 493 read, 400 write, 43k iops, (random write up to 35k, bench 38k).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> But any SSD should destroy mechanical drive in IOPS.


True..

What I'm saying is: That Sandisk was attractively priced. Just so you know they are not that good.

So you don't end up buying the stuff and wonder why it has also half of the performance that you can get from Better SSDs.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> RMA??


I think that is going to be the way to go







, i bought another UD5 by the moment (well, i will, tomorrow). I'll try to sell the one i'll RMA


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> True..
> 
> What I'm saying is: That Sandisk was attractively priced. Just so you know they are not that good.
> 
> So you don't end up buying the stuff and wonder why it has also half of the performance that you can get from Better SSDs.


I wonder if you'd notice the performance loss in day to day usage, assuming you weren't doing a lot of writing to the drive? I mean, the one you have, is it noticeably slower than others you have, or, does it just bench low?


----------



## M3TAl

Not sure it would even be very noticeable for an OS drive. Sure if you read or write ton of data often then the speeds would be noticed but I doubt much difference would be noticed as an OS drive. Sure a bench will tell you it's slower but say "feeling" the difference in an OS drive with 25,000 IOPS vs 50,000 IOPS. After a certain point I would think more IOPS becomes negligible from a "feeling" the difference perspective. I don't know. Would have to try it myself. But I have my doubts.

I'd be worried about reliability and longevity. Game loads in 8 seconds instead of 6? Meh. Not a big deal to me, especially if that extra 2 seconds cost like $50+ more.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I'm going to agree with M3TAI on that one. I'm not sure that outside of installing things, you'd notice enough of a difference to say the drive wasn't worth it. Still, if you're going to do it, do it right, and get a SSD that's more reliable.

I really wish I had gotten a pro, instead of a a normal evo myself. Even though I doubt I'd notice the slight speed difference, the pro can take 3x the amount of writes.

I might get another SSD, when I can get a 256+ for around the price I paid for this evo. $100 bucks for a 256gb SSD = pawnage.


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.sandisk.com/products/ssd/sata/

up to 375mbps


works fine for an os drive on one of my pcs


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Not sure it would even be very noticeable for an OS drive. Sure if you read or write ton of data often then the speeds would be noticed but I doubt much difference would be noticed as an OS drive. Sure a bench will tell you it's slower but say "feeling" the difference in an OS drive with 25,000 IOPS vs 50,000 IOPS. After a certain point I would think more IOPS becomes negligible from a "feeling" the difference perspective. I don't know. Would have to try it myself. But I have my doubts.
> 
> I'd be worried about reliability and longevity. Game loads in 8 seconds instead of 6? Meh. Not a big deal to me, especially if that extra 2 seconds cost like $50+ more.


Well, I guess it all depends on how you see things.

This is OCN. This is where we share thoughts on certain things.

I am just sharing mine. Based on actual experience. Not even talking about benchmarks to back my claims. And never did told you to not purchase the thing. If you found it attractive enough, go for it. Like I said, performance-wise, they're not that good.

Also note that I am not from the US and doesn't know how much an 840 Pro or a 335 or higher Intel SSD cost for the 120GB model. But I got my Crucial locally for about a 100 bucks. That is a already a good price for me. I suppose.

Not arguing over your point. Just telling you the cons. You be the final deciding factor on such purchases anyway.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I wonder if you'd notice the performance loss in day to day usage, assuming you weren't doing a lot of writing to the drive? I mean, the one you have, is it noticeably slower than others you have, or, does it just bench low?


Talking about the speed, the Sandisks were by far inferior in every aspect to Intel 335s and 330s on our workstations. Even with my Crucial, not so much of an SSD per spec. Booting, Logging on and out were slower too. Not to mention occasional glitches even just on browsing.

Game load differences were not as close as 2 seconds either.

If you are concerned about IOPS, you might as well read more about the topic. While SSDs would slaughter every HDDs, I am talking about day to day use of a computer with different SSDs. System drives may not be a saving drive in common knowledge but deep within, everything a computer does will be revolving around the System drive and those READ/WRITE speeds I mentioned will of course, be directly proportional to the IOPS you are saying.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.sandisk.com/products/ssd/sata/
> 
> up to 375mbps
> 
> 
> works fine for an os drive on one of my pcs


Can't even see evidence of a 375 MB/s transfer rate on your result.

But even if 375's your rate, compare that to 520 MB/s..


----------



## mus1mus

Came to think of it, I think for you to get the most out of your purchase, go for a RAID 0 on these Sandisks.


----------



## Chargeit

We'll a samsung pro is something like $130 ($120 on newegg right now) give or take. Not sure about the others. Still $65 sounds like a fair price for a introductory SSD.

I'm not buying one, ^^, but, figured I'd post it, in case anyone was looking for a SSD on the cheap. I'll stick to Samsung for now, since they have fair prices, and good reviews/longevity. Though, next time I'll get the pro.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> We'll a samsung pro is something like $130 ($120 on newegg right now) give or take. Not sure about the others. Still $65 sounds like a fair price for a introductory SSD.
> 
> I'm not buying one, ^^, but, figured I'd post it, in case anyone was looking for a SSD on the cheap. I'll stick to Samsung for now, since they have fair prices, and good reviews/longevity. Though, next time I'll get the pro.


Well, I figured what you meant mate. Not the good ones out there but for the price, I might as well consider RAID 0 and still come out clean. Though my inner thought wouldn't since experiencing them first hand.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.sandisk.com/products/ssd/sata/
> 
> up to 375mbps
> 
> 
> works fine for an os drive on one of my pcs
> 
> 
> 
> Can't even see evidence of a 375 MB/s transfer rate on your result.
> 
> But even if 375's your rate, compare that to 520 MB/s..
Click to expand...

from the manufacture site, either way it was dirt cheap and works fine for another pc i have


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> from the manufacture site, either way it was dirt cheap and works fine for another pc i have


Point taken.

But would you recommend it? Considering it's almost half the price, but also performs by half?

Kingston for example.


----------



## DarkJoney

Heh, so, nobody can help me with this RAM?







I left reply at 933 page.


----------



## hurricane28

wow that is one slow SSD man, that is sata 2 speed instead of sata 3.

I have exchanged my OCZ agility 3 for an Samsung 840 EVO 120gb and i must say that its pretty much faster than i ever had before.

The amount of IOPS determines the speed of the SSD and i have to believe 97.000 and that makes it almost the fastest SSD out there.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> Heh, so, nobody can help me with this RAM?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I left reply at 933 page.


Define your system.

RAM Specified Speed.

OC Parameters.

You can't expect people to tell you anything that they have no idea of.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> wow that is one slow SSD man, that is sata 2 speed instead of sata 3.
> 
> I have exchanged my OCZ agility 3 for an Samsung 840 EVO 120gb and i must say that its pretty much faster than i ever had before.
> 
> The amount of IOPS determines the speed of the SSD and i have to believe 97.000 and that makes it almost the fastest SSD out there.


LOL


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Define your system.
> 
> RAM Specified Speed.
> 
> OC Parameters.
> 
> You can't expect people to tell you anything that they have no idea of.


-.- it's my profile system, I told parameters in the past.
Okay, one more time. I have Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5. My CPU is FX 8320. My ram is Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600 HyperX Blu KHX1600C10D3B1/8G.
Problem: I cant set full speed of ram (1600) in BIOS, with any settings it's works in 1333. I set RAM Multiplier to 8.0x and timings from specs 10-10-10-30, any effect.
It's seems settings are saved, but they are not working. Voltages are also correct. With my prev ASUS Mobo, I just needed to set 1600 in BIOS. But there....
Also I add screeshots:


From specs settings are - clock 1600, voltage is 1.5, timings is 10-10-10-30.
CPU-Z also says it's 1333 with 1600 settings in BIOS.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> -.- it's my profile system, I told parameters in the past.
> Okay, one more time. I have Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5. My CPU is FX 8320. My ram is Kingston 8GB DDR3 1600 HyperX Blu KHX1600C10D3B1/8G.
> Problem: I cant set full speed of ram (1600) in BIOS, with any settings it's works in 1333. I set RAM Multiplier to 8.0x and timings from specs 10-10-10-30, any effect.
> It's seems settings are saved, but they are not working. Voltages are also correct. With my prev ASUS Mobo, I just needed to set 1600 in BIOS. But there....
> Also I add screeshots:
> 
> 
> From specs settings are - clock 1600, voltage is 1.5, timings is 10-10-10-30.
> CPU-Z also says it's 1333 with 1600 settings in BIOS.


Okay, sounds a little like this.

Can you see and enable RAM SPD or whatever it is called in AMD Speak. Select Profile 1.
If you can't, and needs to manually enter every parameter, you can disable that.

That's on the previous page of the BIOS. It's where you can edit your OVERCLOCK.

Let us know how it goes..


----------



## M3TAl

Selecting a DRAM EOCP profile is another option, personally I don't like using it. Prefer to set everything manually. I never trust these auto profiles and such.


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Okay, sounds a little like this.
> 
> Can you see and enable RAM SPD or whatever it is called in AMD Speak. Select Profile 1.
> If you can't, and needs to manually enter every parameter, you can disable that.
> 
> That's on the previous page of the BIOS. It's where you can edit your OVERCLOCK.
> 
> Let us know how it goes..


Okay I will try, but I am not sure where this AMD Speak


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> wow that is one slow SSD man, that is sata 2 speed instead of sata 3.
> 
> I have exchanged my OCZ agility 3 for an Samsung 840 EVO 120gb and i must say that its pretty much faster than i ever had before.
> 
> The amount of IOPS determines the speed of the SSD and i have to believe 97.000 and that makes it almost the fastest SSD out there.


nope pros >evo

and from what i understand m500>evo
vector >evo

evo is just the cheaper brand, i bought the san disk for a spare pc i have, dont need the best of the best in 10 pcs i have around
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Okay, sounds a little like this.
> 
> Can you see and enable RAM SPD or whatever it is called in AMD Speak. Select Profile 1.
> If you can't, and needs to manually enter every parameter, you can disable that.
> 
> That's on the previous page of the BIOS. It's where you can edit your OVERCLOCK.
> 
> Let us know how it goes..
> 
> 
> 
> Okay I will try, but I am not sure where this AMD Speak
Click to expand...

are you sure that cpuz is not reading jedec speeds ?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nope pros >evo
> 
> and from what i understand m500>evo
> vector >evo
> 
> evo is just the cheaper brand, i bought the san disk for a spare pc i have, dont need the best of the best in 10 pcs i have around
> are you sure that cpuz is not reading jedec speeds ?


Yes the Samsung 840 PRO is the fastest SSD out there, but its not by much if you compare it to an 840 EVO sinse the EVO uses the latest software and the newest controller.

and the EVO is not the brand its just the newer SSD serie of Samsung, and the internal parts of an SSD are mainly manufactured by Samsung


----------



## hurricane28

oh and here is my benchmark of my Samsung 840EVO


----------



## hagtek

The Samsung 840 Evo SSDs that I'm using stomp all over the Kingston V300 and Crucials they've replaced.

The Samsung Pro and Evo trade blows on read/write speeds, random 4K etc....

At $85 on amazon or newegg you can't go wrong.


----------



## hurricane28

Yep Ive seen that in all of the benchmarks across the Internet.

the funny thing is, is that i didn't pay anything for this one because my old OCZ SSD almost died and i went to the store and said that it was dead and they did not even ask who or what but instantly said: THIS is the one you need and you are still within warranty so you don't need to pay for it









That after 1 year of heavily usage of that SSD and went to the store and instantaneously got a new one without any questions. That's what i call service


----------



## hagtek

Woah, now that's service. I wouldn't consider another SSD at this point in time, especially with my Kingston V300 experiences. The Samsung 840 Evo have been 100%+ for me.


----------



## Chargeit

That's why it's nice to get things from a physical store. Dealing with return/replacements online can be a nightmare. However, Amazon will take care of you.

My 780 crapped out after 2 months. This was after the Amazon return/replacement window. Asus dragged their feet for 8 days. I sent a email about it to Amazon. I got a reply within a hour, and they overnight me a new 780 + paid for return shipping.

To be honest, I don't want to deal with Asus again, but, they make such good damned mobo that I'm kind of stuck with it. I'm buying their hero for the 4770k I'm ordering this Friday.







I have no resolve.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

I bought 4 of the ud3 for mining and had to send them all back to amazon because they were all defective.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> I bought 4 of the ud3 for mining and had to send them all back to amazon because they were all defective.


I seriously doubt that they were all defective. You might want to reconsider how you handle your motherboards.

*You should of came and asked around here before making all those returns. From what I've seen most problems end up being on the user end. This UD5 I have has been rock solid. The only issue I really have with it, is when I disable CnQ it hangs when trying to shut down windows. The fans just keep spinning. It's annoying, but, not return annoying (windows properly shuts down). My ol'ladys 970a-ud3 does the same thing, but, not because of CnQ. Haven't figured out what does it for that board.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I seriously doubt that they were all defective. You might want to reconsider how you handle your motherboards.


They were all defective, none of them would work with 6 video cards. I think I probably know how to handle hardware considering i'm running a huge mining farm. Thanks for your input though









If you go check out the 750 ti mining thread you will see a lot of people having trouble with the 990FXA-UD3.


----------



## hagtek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> That's why it's nice to get things from a physical store. Dealing with return/replacements online can be a nightmare. However, Amazon will take care of you.
> 
> My 780 crapped out after 2 months. This was after the Amazon return/replacement window. Asus dragged their feet for 8 days. I sent a email about it to Amazon. I got a reply within a hour, and they overnight me a new 780 + paid for return shipping.
> 
> To be honest, I don't want to deal with Asus again, but, they make such good damned mobo that I'm kind of stuck with it. I'm buying their hero for the 4770k I'm ordering this Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no resolve.


I bought a Biostar Z87X-3D to compare to the Hero I was using at the time, with a 4670K, a 4770K and eventually an E3 1230 v3 I preferred the Biostar. I won't say it bettered the Hero but it's at least on par with it and for $75+ less than what I paid.

I've since sold the Hero, it's a decent board but so is the Biostar and I don't notice any difference what so ever.

Some will I suppose, complain about the aesthetics but I can't make sense out of buying a motherboard based on aesthetics.

Just my $.02.


----------



## Chargeit

Thanks for the input man.

Well, considering **I wanted the Formula, lol, the hero doesn't seem all that bad price wise. However, I'm not spending over 300 on a mobo that will be dated in a few months. I really want that armor though, even though it looks like a pain to work with, it would be nice protection from my mishandling. I'm goofy.

I thought about the sabertooth, but, I don't think it offers as many features, and is as OC friendly.

**I was also looking into the 4930k, which makes the 4770k, and it's mobo seem a lot more affordable.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> They were all defective, none of them would work with 6 video cards. I think I probably know how to handle hardware considering i'm running a huge mining farm. Thanks for your input though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you go check out the 750 ti mining thread you will see a lot of people having trouble with the 990FXA-UD3.


I don't know man, I don't mine. I'm not sure the boards were intended to handle 6 cards anyway. Sounds like you were doing something outside of the intended use, wasn't able to get it worked out, and now call the boards defective.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I don't know man, I don't mine. I'm not sure the boards were intended to handle 6 cards anyway. Sounds like you were doing something outside of the intended use, wasn't able to get it worked out, and now call the boards defective.


yeah they just have 6 pci-e slots for no reason yet only four can work at a time. Sounds pretty defective to me ?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> yeah they just have 6 pci-e slots for no reason yet only four can work at a time. Sounds pretty defective to me ?


4 PCI-E 2.0 x16 interfaces with 2-way CrossFire and 2-way SLI Support <--- I don't see them advertising anything about 6 way SLI. You're attempting to use them outside of their intended use.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> 4 PCI-E 2.0 x16 interfaces with 2-way CrossFire and 2-way SLI Support <--- I don't see them advertising anything about 6 way SLI. You're attempting to use them outside of their intended use.


Negative because you don't use xfire or sli for mining. Like you said you don't mine, so you have no idea what you are even talking about. Funny thing is you are likely right though -- the board was never designed to actually run 6 gpus at once be it xfire or not. It just happens to have the slots to do so (on risers). It does not however work... That is why I replaced them with something designed for mining now.

Gigabyte does make some great boards I'm not putting them down. I have a bunch of 970 gigabyte D3P's I believe in my mining farm that run 5 gpus great.


----------



## Chargeit

I get where they didn't work out for you. I just don't think it's fair to call them defective, when most people aren't going to attempt to hook 6 GPU up to them. I mean sure, say they didn't work out for 6 gpu mining. But, saying they're defective, might turn someone off that would of just used them for a single, or dual GPU set up.

Man, you have to admit that 6 gpu is fairly extreme. Outside of mining, I don't think would be a issue.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I get where they didn't work out for you. I just don't think it's fair to call them defective, when most people aren't going to attempt to hook 6 GPU up to them. I mean sure, say they didn't work out for 6 gpu mining. But, saying they're defective, might turn someone off that would of just used them for a single, or dual GPU set up.
> 
> Man, you have to admit that 6 gpu is fairly extreme. Outside of mining, I don't think would be a issue.


it is still a design failure when you have 6 pci-e ports that can't all be used at the same time.

I do get what you are saying though, and maybe defective was the wrong word? still annoyed I wasted my time with them.

Funny thing is they are somewhat hit and miss, because I have one UD3 in my 280x farm that runs 5 gpus just fine. never tried a 6th on it. All 5 of the ones I had including that one were REV 4.0 and the new 4 just refused to work right for my purposes


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I get where they didn't work out for you. I just don't think it's fair to call them defective, when most people aren't going to attempt to hook 6 GPU up to them. I mean sure, say they didn't work out for 6 gpu mining. But, saying they're defective, might turn someone off that would of just used them for a single, or dual GPU set up.
> 
> Man, you have to admit that 6 gpu is fairly extreme. Outside of mining, I don't think would be a issue.


not really when you look at rendering rigs and dedicated folding rigs, 6 gpu's is common.

also keep in mind not being able to run all 6 slots at the same time is a defect.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> not really when you look at rendering rigs and dedicated folding rigs, 6 gpu's is common.
> 
> also keep in mind not being able to run all 6 slots at the same time is a defect.


I guess. That's way out of my realm of operation. I have to wonder how it would work out with 4 GPU, and a sound card / wireless however.

Anyway, extreme users need not apply.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I guess. That's way out of my realm of operation. I have to wonder how it would work out with 4 GPU, and a sound card / wireless however.
> 
> *Anyway, extreme users need not apply*.


This is OCN, where the motto is in the pursuit of performance. Honestly each new post you sound....... lets stop there


----------



## Rayleyne

Mining and rendering is honestly not an extreme use, Nor is folding, Honestly extreme use doesn't even apply anymore.


----------



## PhilWrir

Thread cleaned.

There is no reason to turn this into a fight.
Different users have different experiences and parts.
So lets not find conflict where there shouldn't be any.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> That's why it's nice to get things from a physical store. Dealing with return/replacements online can be a nightmare. However, Amazon will take care of you.
> 
> My 780 crapped out after 2 months. This was after the Amazon return/replacement window. Asus dragged their feet for 8 days. I sent a email about it to Amazon. I got a reply within a hour, and they overnight me a new 780 + paid for return shipping.
> 
> To be honest, I don't want to deal with Asus again, but, they make such good damned mobo that I'm kind of stuck with it. I'm buying their hero for the 4770k I'm ordering this Friday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no resolve.


Yes it is and that is why i mainly buy from shops i actually go yo when i have trouble instead of sending it back and wait for weeks for even an answer.

I once bought an Asus notebook and had nothing but trouble with the customer service of Asus, second time was when i bought an GPU from them witch is advertised to be an TOP card and according to Asus one of their best overclocking GPU's but the truth was the opposite, it didn't overclock at all and i called them and they said ''were sorry but the card is voltage locked and we do not provide information about overclocking''

I was stunned by their answer because YouTube is full of video's of overclocking and reviews by JJ their marketing specialist. Then i opened my eyes and start thinking, IF a product is really that good as they say, is is necessary to spend so much time and money on marketing? I guess not.

than i went with MSI and i have had zero problems with my GPU and its performance is right on the spot like it suppose to be.

I am not bashing on Asus or Asus fan boys but hey that is just my 2 cents


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I find it odd that this 780 is voltage locked myself. I mean, it isn't a huge deal, since I'm on air, but still. I'd like the option to up the voltage if I needed to.

As for customer service, I'd say they are nice, yet ineffective. Though, my issue was, the first guy I talked to said he could set me up for a faster return method, which ended up really being slower than just sending the thing in. That's why after 8 days, I still hadn't so much as shipped the GPU out. I called about it a few times, and kept getting told that the women who handles it is sick... I mean, come'on.

So yea, I really hate to get one of their mobo, but, it's hard to deny that most would suggest it. Assuming I don't have to deal with their returns, I should be good.


----------



## DarkJoney

Guys, I dont have Profile select in my BIOS.
What I should set up manualy?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> Some will I suppose, complain about the aesthetics but I can't make sense out of buying a motherboard based on aesthetics.
> 
> Just my $.02.


once you get out of the entry/ medium level rigs and they start approaching the high end enthusiast section, you care very very much about aesthetics i am not saying it is for everyone, but yea when your rig starts costing 5k+ you start caring
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes the Samsung 840 PRO is the fastest SSD out there, but its not by much if you compare it to an 840 EVO sinse the EVO uses the latest software and the newest controller.
> 
> and the EVO is not the brand its just the newer SSD serie of Samsung, and the internal parts of an SSD are mainly manufactured by Samsung


no that is also not true, PCIEx4 ssds > pro due to the use of raid and the availability of the bandwidth of pciex4
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Thanks for the input man.
> 
> Well, considering **I wanted the Formula, lol, the hero doesn't seem all that bad price wise. However, I'm not spending over 300 on a mobo that will be dated in a few months. I really want that armor though, even though it looks like a pain to work with, it would be nice protection from my mishandling. I'm goofy.
> 
> I thought about the sabertooth, but, I don't think it offers as many features, and is as OC friendly.
> 
> **I was also looking into the 4930k, which makes the 4770k, and it's mobo seem a lot more affordable.


seriously just buy a used 3930k you wont regret it !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> yeah they just have 6 pci-e slots for no reason yet only four can work at a time. Sounds pretty defective to me ?
> 
> 
> 
> 4 PCI-E 2.0 x16 interfaces with 2-way CrossFire and 2-way SLI Support <--- I don't see them advertising anything about 6 way SLI. You're attempting to use them outside of their intended use.
Click to expand...

there is no such thing as 6way sli or cfx, quadfire/sli is max !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I find it odd that this 780 is voltage locked myself. I mean, it isn't a huge deal, since I'm on air, but still. I'd like the option to up the voltage if I needed to.
> 
> As for customer service, I'd say they are nice, yet ineffective. Though, my issue was, the first guy I talked to said he could set me up for a faster return method, which ended up really being slower than just sending the thing in. That's why after 8 days, I still hadn't so much as shipped the GPU out. I called about it a few times, and kept getting told that the women who handles it is sick... I mean, come'on.
> 
> So yea, I really hate to get one of their mobo, but, it's hard to deny that most would suggest it. Assuming I don't have to deal with their returns, I should be good.


pretty sure that is standard across all ref NVIDIA although i could be wrong
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> Guys, I dont have Profile select in my BIOS.
> What I should set up manualy?


are you talkign about ram ? what are the rated specs !~


----------



## Chargeit

You're preaching to the choir about the 3930k/4930k, however, I really can't spend that much money on it. I'd never get away with it. As for buying used, I've had bad experiences with used things. Really, I don't want a CPU that someone has been abusing for the last 3 years anyway. If I bought the CPU, and for some reason it gave me issues, my ol'lady would never let me hear the end of it.

Yea, I know there is no 6 way sli / crossfire.

I'm sure you're right about the Nvidia cards. I do know that some are unlocked, the EVGA 780 is. I mean, it isn't a huge deal, since I'm on air, and wouldn't increase the voltage of my card. Shoot, the VRM hit 84 when stress testing all ready.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> You're preaching to the choir about the 3930k/4930k, however, I really can't spend that much money on it. I'd never get away with it. As for buying used, I've had bad experiences with used things. Really, I don't want a CPU that someone has been abusing for the last 3 years anyway. If I bought the CPU, and for some reason it gave me issues, my ol'lady would never let me hear the end of it.
> 
> Yea, I know there is no 6 way sli / crossfire.
> 
> I'm sure you're right about the Nvidia cards. I do know that some are unlocked, the EVGA 780 is. I mean, it isn't a huge deal, since I'm on air, and wouldn't increase the voltage of my card. Shoot, the VRM hit 84 when stress testing all ready.


OCN market place !

i see RIVE for 300 ish and other RIVE less, i got my cpu ~ ... 380 iirc ! runs 4.7 all day long i think i can tweak it to 4.8 24/7 stable !


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> once you get out of the entry/ medium level rigs and they start approaching the high end enthusiast section, you care very very much about aesthetics i am not saying it is for everyone, but yea when your rig starts costing 5k+ you start caring
> no that is also not true, PCIEx4 ssds > pro due to the use of raid and the availability of the bandwidth of pciex4
> seriously just buy a used 3930k you wont regret it !
> there is no such thing as 6way sli or cfx, quadfire/sli is max !
> pretty sure that is standard across all ref NVIDIA although i could be wrong
> are you talkign about ram ? what are the rated specs !~


Well i was talking about a SINGLE SSD and what you are talking about is standard SSD's in raid 0 like the Kingston predator and the OCZ revodrive.

And if you are revering to the Samsung 840 PRO that is only faster because it has more IOPS and a slightly faster controller but that's it.

Samsung SSD's are that fast because you have the option rapid mode that allows the SSD to use 1gb of your system RAM as a sort of RAM disk.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> OCN market place !
> 
> i see RIVE for 300 ish and other RIVE less, i got my cpu ~ ... 380 iirc ! runs 4.7 all day long i think i can tweak it to 4.8 24/7 stable !


I'm looking for it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> once you get out of the entry/ medium level rigs and they start approaching the high end enthusiast section, you care very very much about aesthetics i am not saying it is for everyone, but yea when your rig starts costing 5k+ you start caring
> no that is also not true, PCIEx4 ssds > pro due to the use of raid and the availability of the bandwidth of pciex4
> seriously just buy a used 3930k you wont regret it !
> there is no such thing as 6way sli or cfx, quadfire/sli is max !
> pretty sure that is standard across all ref NVIDIA although i could be wrong
> are you talkign about ram ? what are the rated specs !~
> 
> 
> 
> Well i was talking about a SINGLE SSD and what you are talking about is standard SSD's in raid 0 like the Kingston predator and the OCZ revodrive.
> 
> And if you are revering to the Samsung 840 PRO that is only faster because it has more IOPS and a slightly faster controller but that's it.
> 
> Samsung SSD's are that fast because you have the option rapid mode that allows the SSD to use 1gb of your system RAM as a sort of RAM disk.
Click to expand...

it is a single ssd that basically has a raid controller but yea still a single ssd ( takes up 1 slot ) ! also the evos use cheaper nand that does not have as long of a life expectancy
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> OCN market place !
> 
> i see RIVE for 300 ish and other RIVE less, i got my cpu ~ ... 380 iirc ! runs 4.7 all day long i think i can tweak it to 4.8 24/7 stable !
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for it.
Click to expand...

ment seen * but you will have to wait and look around ! i troll the market place and will let you know of any good deals i come across !


----------



## hagtek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> once you get out of the entry/ medium level rigs and they start approaching the high end enthusiast section, you care very very much about aesthetics i am not saying it is for everyone, but yea when your rig starts costing 5k+ you start caring


Sorry, must not be for me. I don't care what color the boards are in my Krell FPB-300 or in my Pass Labs X350.5. It makes no difference.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hagtek*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> once you get out of the entry/ medium level rigs and they start approaching the high end enthusiast section, you care very very much about aesthetics i am not saying it is for everyone, but yea when your rig starts costing 5k+ you start caring
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, must not be for me. I don't care what color the boards are in my Krell FPB-300 or in my Pass Labs X350.5. It makes no difference.
Click to expand...

i can respect that but you have to be able to understand builds like this, specifically look for that

http://www.overclock.net/t/1402071/june-2013-mod-of-the-month-closed/0_100


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> OCN market place !
> 
> i see RIVE for 300 ish and other RIVE less, i got my cpu ~ ... 380 iirc ! runs 4.7 all day long i think i can tweak it to 4.8 24/7 stable !
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking for it.
Click to expand...

here is one, you can always make offers, i do if they are reasonable they usually take them

http://www.overclock.net/t/1389656/amd-fx8350-i3-i5-i7-i7-extreme-processors-990fxa-z77-z87-h61-x79-boards-i3-i5-i7-combo-8gb-16gb-32gb-ddr3s/0_100


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> Guys, I dont have Profile select in my BIOS.
> What I should set up manualy?


If you bought a X.M.P enabled RAM, you should have the option for X.M.P. Profile 1 usually defaults to your advertised spec.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> here is one, you can always make offers, i do if they are reasonable they usually take them
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1389656/amd-fx8350-i3-i5-i7-i7-extreme-processors-990fxa-z77-z87-h61-x79-boards-i3-i5-i7-combo-8gb-16gb-32gb-ddr3s/0_100


Cool, I'll check it out. Though, I really don't feel good about buying anything used.

I can't do anything until Friday though.


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> OCN market place !
> 
> i see RIVE for 300 ish and other RIVE less, i got my cpu ~ ... 380 iirc ! runs 4.7 all day long i think i can tweak it to 4.8 24/7 stable !


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> once you get out of the entry/ medium level rigs and they start approaching the high end enthusiast section, you care very very much about aesthetics i am not saying it is for everyone, but yea when your rig starts costing 5k+ you start caring
> no that is also not true, PCIEx4 ssds > pro due to the use of raid and the availability of the bandwidth of pciex4
> seriously just buy a used 3930k you wont regret it !
> there is no such thing as 6way sli or cfx, quadfire/sli is max !
> pretty sure that is standard across all ref NVIDIA although i could be wrong
> are you talkign about ram ? what are the rated specs !~


http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/9350#post_21923064
From the box 1600, but mobo gives only 1333...
With any settings it's keeps 1333.
We are just reasking me about specs a lot of times, but they are already given...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/9350#post_21923064
> From the box 1600, but mobo gives only 1333...
> With any settings it's keeps 1333.
> We are just reasking me about specs a lot of times, but they are already given...


Take screenshots of the BIOS PAGE. I meant ALL Pages concerned with CPU and RAM.


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Take screenshots of the BIOS PAGE. I meant ALL Pages concerned with CPU and RAM.


Should I reset to default? I will do it now for us.


----------



## DarkJoney

Okay, there are screenshots:


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you talkign about ram ? what are the rated specs !~
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/9350#post_21923064
> From the box 1600, but mobo gives only 1333...
> With any settings it's keeps 1333.
> We are just reasking me about specs a lot of times, but they are already given...
Click to expand...

because your ram in your sig is listed as " Kingston HyperX Blue 8GB " which does not tell me rated speed and main timings, and it does not help me, and i am sorry but i do not go around memorizing other peoples rigs, i have far too much irl to deal with hence why we say " use rig builder" but if oyu go through it and only fill it out half way, guess what? it does not help us

now that you have posted bios screens, please download hwinfo 64 and please screen shot the page you see below


it will differ slightly as this is my intel rig, but you get the idea, unfortunately my amd rig is dismantled as i am in the process of a rebuild


----------



## Chargeit

Newegg says that ram should run at, 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V

*Newegg

HYPERX BLU 8GB (2 X 4GB) PC3-12800 (1600MHZ) DUAL-CHANNEL DESKTOP KIT
These high performance modules have been tested to *run at DDR3-1600 at a latency timing of 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V.* All HyperX modules are built from quality components that meet or exceed Kingston's strict engineering requirements of stability, high frequency and low latency.


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Newegg says that ram should run at, 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V
> 
> *Newegg
> 
> HYPERX BLU 8GB (2 X 4GB) PC3-12800 (1600MHZ) DUAL-CHANNEL DESKTOP KIT
> These high performance modules have been tested to *run at DDR3-1600 at a latency timing of 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V.* All HyperX modules are built from quality components that meet or exceed Kingston's strict engineering requirements of stability, high frequency and low latency.


I should try with 1.65?
Okay, I will try with 1.65.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> because your ram in your sig is listed as " Kingston HyperX Blue 8GB " which does not tell me rated speed and main timings, and it does not help me, and i am sorry but i do not go around memorizing other peoples rigs, i have far too much irl to deal with hence why we say " use rig builder" but if oyu go through it and only fill it out half way, guess what? it does not help us
> 
> now that you have posted bios screens, please download hwinfo 64 and please screen shot the page you see below
> 
> LMGFU? There is similar modules, There is no this RAM in RIG Builder.
> it will differ slightly as this is my intel rig, but you get the idea, unfortunately my amd rig is dismantled as i am in the process of a rebuild


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, assuming it's the correct ram, it says a stable setting is, 1600 @ 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V

I'm not sure what all you've done so far, but, you'd want to get your ram stable before oc'ing your CPU.


----------



## DarkJoney

*Mega Man*, I made some edits, to avoid same situations in the future.
*Chargeit*, so, try with 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V @ 1600? Can I set all parameters with 1 UEFI enter?
There is a old CPU-Z Valid from ASUS Mobo. http://valid.canardpc.com/c4mlki
Strainge, it's 9-9-9-24 here.
Hmm, maybe I should try to update bios?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> *Mega Man*, I made some edits, to avoid same situations in the future.
> *Chargeit*, so, try with 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V @ 1600? Can I set all parameters with 1 UEFI enter?
> There is a old CPU-Z Valid from ASUS Mobo. http://valid.canardpc.com/c4mlki
> Strainge, it's 9-9-9-24 here.


Yea, wait on that. I was reading from the 2x4gb kit.

So, you've got 1 stick 8GB?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104301

That's your ram?

The Kingston website says this...

http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX1600C10D3b1_8G.pdf

"_This module has been tested to run at DDR3-1600 at a low latency
timing of 10-10-10 at 1.5V._"

So, I'd assume it should run 1600 @ 10-10-10-30 1.5v (If it's stable 1600 @ 9-9-9-24, than I see no reason to alter it)


----------



## simsim44

Wait you only have one stick of ram ? if so what slot is it in?

edit did not refresh to see Chargeit"s post

yea I just saw that too could this be a concern being in the unapproved slot?


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> So, you've got 1 stick 8GB?[/I]"


Yup, I have 1 stick, single-channel. I was think sticks in 2x8GB are similar.
I have in the 1st slot RAM installed.

For reliability:


----------



## Chargeit

WHich one?

The one closest to, or further from the CPU?

You want to put the ram in slot 1.

CHeck out page 16 of your mobo manual. Make sure you put your ram in the correct slot.


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> WHich one?
> 
> The one closest to, or further from the CPU?
> 
> You want to put the ram in slot 1.
> 
> CHeck out page 16 of your mobo manual. Make sure you put your ram in the correct slot.


Oh, I have stick in number 4, in closest to CPU... Reinstall it in number 1?
Check out my PC rigbuilder page, there is some good shots.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> Oh, I have stick in number 4, in closest to CPU... Reinstall it in number 1?
> Check out my PC rigbuilder page, there is some good shots.


Yea, I'd switch it to #1


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I'd switch it to #1


Okay, but bit later. it's feature of this mobo?
I looked for memory settings in AMD OverDrive, but found just useful turbo core settings


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> Okay, but bit later. it's feature of this mobo?
> I looked for memory settings in AMD OverDrive, but found just useful turbo core settings


Don't quote me on this, but, maybe the reason you're not seeing memory profile and the such in bios, is because you've got your ram in the wrong slot?

I'm not sure what affect that has, if any with one stick. Really, the manual doesn't say to use slot one for a single stick. However, I'd do it to clear space around your cpu heatsink fan, and because it most likely is supposed to be in that slot.

I wouldn't do anything else until you get your memory seated in the correct slot. After that, see if you have a profile option in bios.


----------



## simsim44

I did a little digging the Dimm slots are , better yet here,
1.4 x 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 32 GB of system memory (Note 1)
2.Dual channel memory architecture
3.Support for DDR3 2000(O.C.)/1866/1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules (Note 2)
4.Support for Extreme Memory Profile (XMP) memory modules
(Please refer "Memory Support List" for more information.)

(Note 1) Due to a Windows 32-bit operating system limitation, when more than 4 GB of physical memory is installed, the actual memory size displayed will be less than the size of the physical memory installed.

(Note 2) To support a DDR3 1866 MHz (and above) memory, you must install an AM3+ CPU first.

I am not a RAM expert but I would like to think having a "single channel" RAM module on/in a system with Dual channel architecture would not cause it not to respond, as much as it being in the wrong location, however the combination of the two may pose a bigger concern.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, 2 channel is the way to go. I wouldn't use one Dimm unless I had to. I'm sure this was a oversight by him. A easy enough mistake to make.


----------



## DarkJoney

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, 2 channel is the way to go. I wouldn't use one Dimm unless I had to. I'm sure this was a oversight by him. A easy enough mistake to make.


I will sell old mobo soon, then I will get another 8GB Stick.
Or better to replace with Corsair/G.Skill?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> I will sell old mobo soon, then I will get another 8GB Stick.
> Or better to replace with Corsair/G.Skill?


You're going to want to ask someone with more experience with it.

I know it's better to get kits since you know they'll work together. However, I'm not sure if the ram you're working with would be a issue.

Personally, I went from 8 gb 1600, to 16gb 1866, and gained nothing expect peace of mind. That was working on 2 dimms both ways though.

You have 2 basic options. Getting a 2nd stick of the same ram, and hoping it doesn't give you issues (I doubt it would, but who knows), or, just replacing your ram all together with a proper kit (2x4 or 2x8).

See what others say.

*I'd think you'd be ok with just getting a 2nd stick of the same type of ram. 1600 ram isn't that extreme, so I think you'd have less issues mixing ram of the same type, yet not same kit. What I'd do, is just buy a 2nd stick of the same ram you have from a place you can return it to. It would suck to spend money on a 2x4gb kit and end up with 8gb of ram, when you could of spent the same money on the ram you have, and get 16gb.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> *Mega Man*, I made some edits, to avoid same situations in the future.
> *Chargeit*, so, try with 9-9-9-27 at 1.65V @ 1600? Can I set all parameters with 1 UEFI enter?
> There is a old CPU-Z Valid from ASUS Mobo. http://valid.canardpc.com/c4mlki
> Strainge, it's 9-9-9-24 here.
> Hmm, maybe I should try to update bios?


you will want to run it slightly over volted, gigas have vdrop on ram in my experience.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I did a little digging the Dimm slots are , better yet here,
> 1.4 x 1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets supporting up to 32 GB of system memory (Note 1)
> 2.Dual channel memory architecture
> 3.Support for DDR3 2000(O.C.)/1866/1600/1333/1066 MHz memory modules (Note 2)
> 4.Support for Extreme Memory Profile (XMP) memory modules
> (Please refer "Memory Support List" for more information.)
> 
> (Note 1) Due to a Windows 32-bit operating system limitation, when more than 4 GB of physical memory is installed, the actual memory size displayed will be less than the size of the physical memory installed.
> 
> (Note 2) To support a DDR3 1866 MHz (and above) memory, you must install an AM3+ CPU first.
> 
> I am not a RAM expert but I would like to think having a "single channel" RAM module on/in a system with Dual channel architecture would not cause it not to respond, as much as it being in the wrong location, however the combination of the two may pose a bigger concern.


no they only difference is poorer performance from single channel vs dual channel
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, 2 channel is the way to go. I wouldn't use one Dimm unless I had to. I'm sure this was a oversight by him. A easy enough mistake to make.
> 
> 
> 
> I will sell old mobo soon, then I will get another 8GB Stick.
> Or better to replace with Corsair/G.Skill?
Click to expand...

it is far better to use kits, as they have been tested to work together, however you usually can get different kits to work together, however dont be mad if you can not.


----------



## Duality92

when I had 16gb of vengeance I bought them all stick by stick because it was much cheaper because of a sale, they all work pretty damn good.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> when I had 16gb of vengeance I bought them all stick by stick because it was much cheaper because of a sale, they all work pretty damn good.


Never happens









Kits were always sold cheaper by a few ticks compared to individual sticks.

By cheaper, you might mean, cheaper cause your buying them by piece (X1) rather than in kit form (X2) which is almost twice the price of a stick.


----------



## DarkJoney

So, It's good idea to get kit of 8x2?
Guys, how do we think, what ram looks best at UD5?
I am choosing between Corsair Vengeance Pro or XM3

P.S I will try with that Kingston in another slot, little bit later.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> So, It's good idea to get kit of 8x2?
> Guys, how do we think, what ram looks best at UD5?
> I am choosing between Corsair Vengeance Pro or XM3
> 
> P.S I will try with that Kingston in another slot, little bit later.


2 DIMMS > 4 DIMMS for same size/capacity.

For choosing RAMs, go for the tightest Timings and Lowest Voltage Ratings.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Never happens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kits were always sold cheaper by a few ticks compared to individual sticks.
> 
> By cheaper, you might mean, cheaper cause your buying them by piece (X1) rather than in kit form (X2) which is almost twice the price of a stick.


When I got my vengeance, it was on sale for 26$ a stick, while the 2x4 kits were 62$.....so I was saving 10$ per 8gb kit.....I had bought a total of 4 sticks for 104$ instead of 124$....so yes, it was cheaper.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> When I got my vengeance, it was on sale for 26$ a stick, while the 2x4 kits were 62$.....so I was saving 10$ per 8gb kit.....I had bought a total of 4 sticks for 104$ instead of 124$....so yes, it was cheaper.


No way!!!

Not being a snob but that simply look ridiculous. Not telling you are lying either.

I doubt they are of different Spec from the get-go with the same Vengeance Branding.

If you can find another deal like that, and a deal that's as black and white as BLACK and WHITE, duh!! I don't know what to say anymore.


----------



## Duality92

This was in April 2012 though. I ended up buying 2 black ones and 2 blue ones.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkJoney*
> 
> So, It's good idea to get kit of 8x2?
> Guys, how do we think, what ram looks best at UD5?
> I am choosing between Corsair Vengeance Pro or XM3
> 
> P.S I will try with that Kingston in another slot, little bit later.


yes it is preferred, however usually you are ok mix and matching, but this is more true the higher speed you go. if it were me just buy fast ram as a kit and dont have to worry about messing with it


----------



## Chargeit

Well, my ol'ladys computer is doing the same thing mine had done.

When idle, it shuts down, with fans running.

So, that ram must be bad, since that's the one common thing between our computers. I used my old ram on hers. Maybe that GTX 780 wasn't bad, and it was the ram. I just don't understand why replacing the GPU stopped the issue?

Now, other things. I did use her current GPU with the PSU in my system right now. Maybe my PSU is the cause, and it just took a while to show up?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Well, my ol'ladys computer is doing the same thing mine had done.
> 
> When idle, it shuts down, with fans running.
> 
> So, that ram must be bad, since that's the one common thing between our computers. I used my old ram on hers. Maybe that GTX 780 wasn't bad, and it was the ram. I just don't understand why replacing the GPU stopped the issue?
> 
> Now, other things. I did use her current GPU with the PSU in my system right now. Maybe my PSU is the cause, and it just took a while to show up?


The only thing you can do to determine what the problem is is due to testing several components.

One of the best monitor programs i use is HWINFO64, i can monitor almost anything about my system and what it does under load.

you can for example monitor what your GPU is doing under load and idle and make sure its above 12V or slightly below 12V.

To test your RAM many people use memtest or maybe there are other programs to test RAM.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I've been though it.

That was my previous issue. I was able to pass all of the stress tests, Prime95,intel burn test, Memtest86, and Heaven.

It has to be that ram. Since it's the one common thing between the computers.

Oh well, this kind of screws me on my new CPU / mobo this week.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I've been though it.
> 
> That was my previous issue. I was able to pass all of the stress tests, Prime95,intel burn test, Memtest86, and Heaven.
> 
> It has to be that ram. Since it's the one common thing between the computers.
> 
> Oh well, this kind of screws me on my new CPU / mobo this week.


I never run prime95 because it give an false image of an stable system.

for example, i could run prime for hours on end with great temps but after 30min of gaming it can crash.

IMO its better to do an FPU test which you can do with AIDA64 or some other program that pushes the CPU to its max thermal limit for about 30minutes and if its stable without any errors or overheating you can use your system for a while and run some benchmarks or whatever to see for how long its stable.

I did run prime95 before because some people claim to be stable if they could manage to run prime hours and hours on end but discovered that they had no idea on what they were talking about because i was ''prime stable'' for a very long time but when i reboot my system and try to play a game it crashed after 10 minutes.

I was getting mad because i could not get my system stable in real live applications, so i stopped using prime95 and did what i said in the above and now my system is 100% stable and have had zero blue screens and runs everything i throw at it









So there is not ONE program that determines absolute stability of your system IMO.

This is MY opinion so do with it what you want


----------



## Chargeit

Thanks, however, I don't think stability is the problem. When I previously had the issue, stock settings didn't fix it.

I had this same issue with my rig. I ended up pulling my 780, and putting a hd 7850 in it. That seemed to fix the problem.

I was in the process of building a system for my ol'lady. I was intending to use the 7850 in her system. I got all of her items in before getting my replacement 780 expect the ram.

I pull the HD 7850, and ram out of my system to put in hers. A few days later I got my replacement 780, and some new ram. I haven't had any issues since.

Now, suddenly her system is having the same issue I had. That points towards the ram. How come the ram worked fine for me once I replaced the 780 with the 7850? I don't know, the problem seemed random enough.

It has to be the ram. If it isn't the ram, than my HD 7850 is having the same issue my 780 was having. That's a scary thought, since it makes me think of PSU issues, which means my current 780 might be getting messed up by my PSU.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Thanks, however, I don't think stability is the problem. When I previously had the issue, stock settings didn't fix it.
> 
> I had this same issue with my rig. I ended up pulling my 780, and putting a hd 7850 in it. That seemed to fix the problem.
> 
> I was in the process of building a system for my ol'lady. I was intending to use the 7850 in her system. I got all of her items in before getting my replacement 780 expect the ram.
> 
> I pull the HD 7850, and ram out of my system to put in hers. A few days later I got my replacement 780, and some new ram. I haven't had any issues since.
> 
> Now, suddenly her system is having the same issue I had. That points towards the ram. How come the ram worked fine for me once I replaced the 780 with the 7850? I don't know, the problem seemed random enough.
> 
> It has to be the ram. If it isn't the ram, than my HD 7850 is having the same issue my 780 was having. That's a scary thought, since it makes me think of PSU issues, which means my current 780 might be getting messed up by my PSU.


You're jumping in to a pool of sharks mate!!!

There are computer issues that doesn't contribute to stability and bad components.

Just a few days ago, I replaced a VGA and HDMI cable on one of our workstations ( Developer Computer Actually ) and used a DVI-HDMI and a new HDMI in return.

After a couple of minutes, the system went crazy. And I was like, COME ON!!! I just replaced a couple of monitor cables for crying out loud!!!

Bios reset, CMOS cleared, pullout the GT640s, cleaned it, still the same.

Guess what fixed the issue??

Resetting the GPU into another PCIE slot









What I'm trying to say is that, you can test the system in a systematic way rather than pulling the trigger on suspected components that may cause the issue right away.

For the RAM, memtest is a standalone software that removes the interaction of the whole system during the test. Thus the interface. You may pass memtest 24/4 but once the system boots into windows is another story.

For the GPU, like the one I said above, it maybe because the MOBO has an issue injected into the PCIE slot. Or some dirt on the slot.









Again, pullout everything and test by component rather than eyeing one at once. Get your self dirty mate. OCN may be full of people willing to help but in any event, you should also consider doing things your own way. There's a chance some people never experienced the issue you're having.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, you are very correct about that.

I did already order some new ram. Also, I am still ordering cpu/mobo tomorrow. When the ram, cpu/mobo comes in, I'll replace the "970a-ud3" in her system with my "990fxa-ud5". I'm not going to put the 8320 in there though, since I like the thermal performance of that fx6300.

I'll see what happens from there.

*Oh yea, I'm going to send that ram in for a RMA also. So, I'm killing 2 birds. I've got my ol'ladys system, my system, and I'll have my current mobo/cpu (ol'lady doesn't want the mobo w/e). Now, I'll have a 8gb ram set for my 8320/990fxa-ud5. Shoot, I've even got another case in storage. So, all I need is a PSU, GPU, and HDD to have another system.







What's that, $300 or so depending? Not shabby.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Well, my ol'ladys computer is doing the same thing mine had done.
> 
> When idle, it shuts down, with fans running.
> 
> So, that ram must be bad, since that's the one common thing between our computers. I used my old ram on hers. Maybe that GTX 780 wasn't bad, and it was the ram. I just don't understand why replacing the GPU stopped the issue?
> 
> Now, other things. I did use her current GPU with the PSU in my system right now. Maybe my PSU is the cause, and it just took a while to show up?


OCCT has a free program that has a stress test for power supplies and other things that might be of help, just a thought.
Link to OCCT


----------



## Chargeit

Thanks, yea I'll check it out. None of the usual stress programs are causing it to crash.

I still can't help but notice it is the same problem I had. There is another thing I should mention.

When I went to run heaven, I got a directX error, which refuses to start it in full screen. This doesn't always happen, but, once it does the system requires a restart to be able to run it. My system was doing the same thing when I was having the issues. I'll have to remember to write it down if it happens again. Usually I'd save things like that as a text document on my desktop until I've got things figured out. At least on mine, reinsalling drivers didn't fix the issue. Could bad memory cause directx issues?

Anyway, when I get that replacement ram in, I'm going to reset everything, and make sure all the connections are clean (I already do this, but). I'll than RMA the ram, since the shipping on ram will be so cheap.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Thanks, yea I'll check it out. None of the usual stress programs are causing it to crash.
> 
> I still can't help but notice it is the same problem I had. There is another thing I should mention.
> 
> When I went to run heaven, I got a directX error, which refuses to start it in full screen. This doesn't always happen, but, once it does the system requires a restart to be able to run it. My system was doing the same thing when I was having the issues. I'll have to remember to write it down if it happens again. Usually I'd save things like that as a text document on my desktop until I've got things figured out. At least on mine, reinsalling drivers didn't fix the issue. Could bad memory cause directx issues?
> 
> Anyway, when I get that replacement ram in, I'm going to reset everything, and make sure all the connections are clean (I already do this, but). I'll than RMA the ram, since the shipping on ram will be so cheap.


Don't think so.

Might be an issue caused by OC'ing the GPU. That's a 780 right?

I have frequent issues like that OC'ing my 650TI Boost.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Don't think so.
> 
> Might be an issue caused by OC'ing the GPU. That's a 780 right?
> 
> I have frequent issues like that OC'ing my 650TI Boost.


When I was having the issue, I wasn't Oc'ing my 780. (It doesn't really need it)

I'm also not oc'ing my ol'ladys 7850. (She doesn't need the 7850 oc'ed for Dungeons and Dragons online)

When I was using the 7850, before I bought the 780, I did OC that card.


----------



## thatsme1988

Has anyone had any issues with overclocking the CPU-NB on the UD3, I can't get mine past stock 2200Mhz? I've gone to 1:1 with HT Link, and even went to 1.325 on the voltage to no avail.

CPU is an FX-8320 clocked at 4560Mhz @1.456 volts
CPU frequency is 240Mhz
Board is Revision 1.1 and F9 bios


----------



## M3TAl

Sometimes the CPU itself is a bad OC'er. My 8320 could barely get 2300 on CPU-NB stable. Anything higher was a no-go.

This 8350 is worlds better.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thatsme1988*
> 
> Has anyone had any issues with overclocking the CPU-NB on the UD3, I can't get mine past stock 2200Mhz? I've gone to 1:1 with HT Link, and even went to 1.325 on the voltage to no avail.
> 
> CPU is an FX-8320 clocked at 4560Mhz @1.456 volts
> CPU frequency is 240Mhz
> Board is Revision 1.1 and F9 bios


rev 3/4s can not do x12 multi but x13 works try that


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thatsme1988*
> 
> Has anyone had any issues with overclocking the CPU-NB on the UD3, I can't get mine past stock 2200Mhz? I've gone to 1:1 with HT Link, and even went to 1.325 on the voltage to no avail.
> 
> CPU is an FX-8320 clocked at 4560Mhz @1.456 volts
> CPU frequency is 240Mhz
> Board is Revision 1.1 and F9 bios


Your FSB is already at 240 making it too high for a CPU-NB.

240 X 11 = 2640 !!! That's just as high as most UD3s can do. Turning it to X12 or indicated as 2400;
240 X12 = 2880 !!! Impossible in my experience!!!

So keep it at X11 or 2200 at the Bios or whatever is indicated.


----------



## SubFocused

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thatsme1988*
> 
> Has anyone had any issues with overclocking the CPU-NB on the UD3, I can't get mine past stock 2200Mhz? I've gone to 1:1 with HT Link, and even went to 1.325 on the voltage to no avail.
> 
> CPU is an FX-8320 clocked at 4560Mhz @1.456 volts
> CPU frequency is 240Mhz
> Board is Revision 1.1 and F9 bios


At least you can get 2200, I bump mine up to 2200 and Aero quits, PCI bus freaks out, and windows doesn't recognize cards in SLI.... So mine stays at 2000


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SubFocused*
> 
> At least you can get 2200, I bump mine up to 2200 and Aero quits, PCI bus freaks out, and windows doesn't recognize cards in SLI.... So mine stays at 2000


what board do you have? and what revision?

2200 is stock i believe so its strange that you can't run CPU/NB stock.


----------



## SubFocused

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> what board do you have? and what revision?
> 
> 2200 is stock i believe so its strange that you can't run CPU/NB stock.


UD3 rev 4

Bios (latest) shows 2000 stock, with defaults or overclocking.


----------



## hurricane28

Okay, well i don't know much about rev 4.0 to be honest but its strange that you cant get 2200 on the CPU/NB because the max i could get it was 2600 with 2400Mhz RAM.

But i have the UD5 rev 1.1 so that's a way different board.

What are the rest of your system specs? make an signature in rigbuilder so people can help you better


----------



## thatsme1988

Sounds like 2200Mhz is where I will stay then. Out of curiosity, how much of a performance improvement is involved at the extra 200Mhz?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thatsme1988*
> 
> Sounds like 2200Mhz is where I will stay then. Out of curiosity, how much of a performance improvement is involved at the extra 200Mhz?


not much


----------



## hurricane28

Honestly? not very much, the main reason why people overclock their CPU/NB is because they love benching and it shows nice scores.

But those scores do not translate in real world performance gains, at least not by much tho. Same as for RAM speeds, people think that 2400Mhz RAM is soo much faster than 1866MHz because the benchmark said so but the truth is the opposite, you trade speed over timings and at a certain point its irrelevant what speed you are running because it takes too much time for the RAM to react to a certain task.

I did test it and run my CPU at 5ghz and CPU/NB at 2570, HT at 3000 and my RAM to 2400 11-11-11-30 timings and yes i had great benchmark results and yes it was fast but it also draws more power from the wall and creates a lot more heat because you need to upper the CPU/NB volts to be stable at those speeds.

Later i went to stock 1866 8-9-9-24 timings and CPU at 4.8 and the rest at stock speeds and my system feels a lot more snappy than when i had it overclocked to the max.
In games i did not see ANY difference at all.

I am happy how it runs now and its fast enough to do anything what i want from it with decent temps and its much more quiet now because i can run in quiet mode now instead of the balanced mode i was on before.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Honestly? not very much, the main reason why people overclock their CPU/NB is because they love benching and it shows nice scores.
> 
> But those scores do not translate in real world performance gains, at least not by much tho. Same as for RAM speeds, people think that 2400Mhz RAM is soo much faster than 1866MHz because the benchmark said so but the truth is the opposite, you trade speed over timings and at a certain point its irrelevant what speed you are running because it takes too much time for the RAM to react to a certain task.
> 
> I did test it and run my CPU at 5ghz and CPU/NB at 2570, HT at 3000 and my RAM to 2400 11-11-11-30 timings and yes i had great benchmark results and yes it was fast but it also draws more power from the wall and creates a lot more heat because you need to upper the CPU/NB volts to be stable at those speeds.
> 
> Later i went to stock 1866 8-9-9-24 timings and CPU at 4.8 and the rest at stock speeds and my system feels a lot more snappy than when i had it overclocked to the max.
> In games i did not see ANY difference at all.
> 
> I am happy how it runs now and its fast enough to do anything what i want from it with decent temps and its much more quiet now because i can run in quiet mode now instead of the balanced mode i was on before.


yea no , it does not make as much of a difference because of ram speed, if you are pushing 2400 ram it can help 2133 or less 2400/2600 is plenty

2400 ram does make a difference, stating that it does not, is like saying there is no difference between 85 and 95 ( or what ever octane you have in your country, low/ high ) for your car, there is a difference, most people just dont understand what it is, and when they "dont see it" they tell everyone there is no performance gains in real world, which is false, as it would depend on what you do with your pc, and not a blanket statement


----------



## thatsme1988

Would you agree that for most people between the lower latency and the higher frequencies they "cancel each other out" quoting LinusTechTips? Would this hold true for lower CPU-NB frequencies and higher CPU clocks?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thatsme1988*
> 
> Would you agree that for most people between the lower latency and the higher frequencies they "cancel each other out" quoting LinusTechTips? Would this hold true for lower CPU-NB frequencies and higher CPU clocks?


like everything, it depends on what you are doing, for a normal user, there is no use going high speed ram to surf the interwebz, certain things you do ( again pointing back to the octane example ) yes there are substantial differences


----------



## thatsme1988

Got it, thanks for the help!


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

This should be a very simple audio issue but it is confusing me. Maybe because I am too tired to think anymore.

I plus in headphones to the audio jacks in the back. A prompt appears on the screen. "What did you plug in?"

Headphones.

But yet sound still comes out of the speakers. I just don't know what to do right now.

Headphone jack in the front has defect, so I cannot use that.

Any clues?

GA-990FXA-UD3


----------



## M3TAl

Someone else will have to chime in. I've literally never used the onboard audio on the 970A-UD3 or 990FXA.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RULINGCHAOS*
> 
> This should be a very simple audio issue but it is confusing me. Maybe because I am too tired to think anymore.
> 
> I plus in headphones to the audio jacks in the back. A prompt appears on the screen. "What did you plug in?"
> 
> Headphones.
> 
> But yet sound still comes out of the speakers. I just don't know what to do right now.
> 
> Headphone jack in the front has defect, so I cannot use that.
> 
> Any clues?
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3


I was playing around with it, and while I did find a setting that is supposed to mute the speakers when headphones are plug in, it appears to not function as advertised. What you can do...is turn your speakers down if they have their own volume control and the headphones should work fine if you selected the connected item as "headphones" in the Realtek software.

My speakers have a headphone jack, so I don't usually use the panel in back...sorry I couldn't be more help. I swear I have defeated this problem before., but it was a long time ago with different hardware and OS.


----------



## M3TAl

He might have a different revision with VIA audio too...


----------



## taowulf

I also have the UD3 but Rev 3...no idea what is on the Rev 4 if that is what he has....


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

I have rev 4 .. just dl it yesterday.

I can pull out my speaker line and plug in the headphones and it works. But do I REALLY need to do that?


----------



## M3TAl

So if you're plugging headphones in the back but sound still comes out of the speakers... Where are the speakers connected?


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

I have the speakers plugged into the light green speaker connector in the back.


----------



## M3TAl

Well that's what's confusing... You said you plug the headphone into the same jack so how can the sound come out of the speakers?


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

Sorry for the confusion. The speakers are always plugged into the green port. I plug headphones into any other jack at the same time, and i do not hear sound coming from the headphones.

Maybe what I am getting at is there a way to disable the speakers and enable the headphones via software when both are plugged in?


----------



## M3TAl

I thought the other outputs were for microphone and surround speakers? Can any other output jack even be reassigned to speaker/headphone output?

Again I've never used onboard sound but that's not how it works on my Xonar DG. Green for speaker/headphone, pink for mic, other colors for surround speakers.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RULINGCHAOS*
> 
> Sorry for the confusion. The speakers are always plugged into the green port. I plug headphones into any other jack at the same time, and i do not hear sound coming from the headphones.
> 
> Maybe what I am getting at is there a way to disable the speakers and enable the headphones via software when both are plugged in?


I believe there's a front header headphone jack that will automatically disable the rear speaker jack once plugged in..

It has to be this specific in my experience..


----------



## Mega Man

yes he is right


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

In my original post I stated that my front headphone jack has a defect. Manufacturer defect or something. Headphones will not push in all the way. An issue with the Antec cases of that model.


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

That is what I thought.. until i got a pop up box asking what i plugged in. Sooooo.... I dunno.


----------



## simsim44

I have noticed that in the past when I tried to plug in a set of headphones It would not go in then I noticed that the jack had only one ring on it as opposed to two ...just saying

as one is for stereo and the other for mono or HD audio or surround I'm not sure the difference


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I have noticed that in the past when I tried to plug in a set of headphones It would not go in then I noticed that the jack had only one ring on it as opposed to two ...just saying
> 
> as one is for stereo and the other for mono or HD audio or surround I'm not sure the difference


Yes, the plug in the case seems too small. I push very hard and it won't go in.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea no , it does not make as much of a difference because of ram speed, if you are pushing 2400 ram it can help 2133 or less 2400/2600 is plenty
> 
> 2400 ram does make a difference, stating that it does not, is like saying there is no difference between 85 and 95 ( or what ever octane you have in your country, low/ high ) for your car, there is a difference, most people just dont understand what it is, and when they "dont see it" they tell everyone there is no performance gains in real world, which is false, as it would depend on what you do with your pc, and not a blanket statement


There are no performance gains from using higher octane fuel in 99% of production vehicles, most are tuned to run on the lower octane fuel. Some performance cars require high octane fuel and no less, or they will ping themselves to death. You can get performance gains from higher octane fuel in any cars that is not tuned for it, by re-tuning and reworking the ignition tables for more advanced timing, or increasing the compression ratio etc etc.

Back to the land of computers. Stock NB speed is 2200 for most FX processors. Most people who overclock memory are going after raw read/write/copy speeds This type of overclocking as very small real world gains as to get higher raw speed, the timings become loose. You see better gains by decreasing the latency of the memory (AKA timings).

I don't like to overclock the CPU-NB, first the extra heat created by increasing the voltage to the CPU-NB is crazy. Second, there isn't a performance increase worth the extra heat and power. 3rd in my case anything past 2400 and my Windows Aero is all sorts of messed up.

Currently I sit at 2365 on my cpu-nb with stock voltage. (215x11) my cpu is at 5052mhz (215x23.5)@ 1.525 volts Memory is at 2006mhz (215x9.33) timings are 9-9-9-24, 1T @ 1.65 volts Hyper Transport is at 2795.(215x13) This is actually the sweet spot for me, and I've benched real world things best with these settings. Increasing the memory speed and giving up the timings hurt performance in alot of cases. Higher CPU-NB speeds caused windows aero problems and maybe saw a small gain in performance ( and again increasing the CPU-NB voltage makes the cpu pump out EVEN more heat and use more power). Increasing the hypertransport speed did actually net some gains in games, small but it was there and measurable.

Btw I know people have had problems with the motherboard warping around the VRM area. I made a aluminum back plate for the VRM section. Improved temps and keeps the board from warping. I should be posting a how-to here shortly.


----------



## BuZADAM

Hi megaman

How can ı work my corsair dominator gt ram @2000 mhz on 990fxa ud7 rev1.0

My current speed 9 10 9 27 @1600 mhz 4 dimm slot

My cpu fx9590


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> Hi megaman
> 
> How can ı work my corsair dominator gt ram @2000 mhz on 990fxa ud7 rev1.0
> 
> My current speed 9 10 9 27 @1600 mhz 4 dimm slot
> 
> My cpu fx9590


Note the FX processors only support up to 1866 and that's in 2 dim slots not 4. That being said its harder to overclock 4 dims on the FX processors than it is 2 dims.

if your a rev 1.0 board. Disable C1E and try your rated timings/speed. What is your memory's rated speed? timing and voltage?


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Note the FX processors only support up to 1866 and that's in 2 dim slots not 4. That being said its harder to overclock 4 dims on the FX processors than it is 2 dims.
> 
> if your a rev 1.0 board. Disable C1E and try your rated timings/speed. What is your memory's rated speed? timing and voltage?


Thanks for interest..

My ram xmp timing 9 10 9 27 51 @ 2000 mhz @1.65v

But ı using @1600 @1.65 4dims

All cpu power saving features disabled. Only enable apm and turbo core bost


----------



## Chargeit

We'll I've got my 4770k installed, and windows updating. Can't wait to see how this thing works out.

I'm going to use my FX8320 for a server PC most likely. I've got it, that 990FXA-UD5, and 8 gb ram sitting around now. Not sure how power efficient it will be, but, I'm not worried about that.

I have to mention, the 990FXA-UD5 feels much beefier than the Maximus VI Hero. Also, I'm 1 internal USB connector short. So, no front panel SD card reader, since the H100i takes one up, and the case usb connections take up the other.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RULINGCHAOS*
> 
> Yes, the plug in the case seems too small. I push very hard and it won't go in.


Standard 3.5mm Jacks will accommodate 3.5mm Plugs without issues.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> I have noticed that in the past when I tried to plug in a set of headphones It would not go in then I noticed that the jack had only one ring on it as opposed to two ...just saying
> 
> as one is for stereo and the other for mono or HD audio or surround I'm not sure the difference


The picture depicts a standard 3.5mm headphone plug. (Stereo Headphones)
Those with 2 rings were used for mobile phones where, one of the rings is for a microphone.

When using it to your audio headers, you really need to use the standard ones.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> There are no performance gains from using higher octane fuel in 99% of production vehicles, most are tuned to run on the lower octane fuel. Some performance cars require high octane fuel and no less, or they will ping themselves to death. You can get performance gains from higher octane fuel in any cars that is not tuned for it, by re-tuning and reworking the ignition tables for more advanced timing, or increasing the compression ratio etc etc.
> 
> Back to the land of computers. Stock NB speed is 2200 for most FX processors. Most people who overclock memory are going after raw read/write/copy speeds This type of overclocking as very small real world gains as to get higher raw speed, the timings become loose. You see better gains by decreasing the latency of the memory (AKA timings).
> 
> I don't like to overclock the CPU-NB, first the extra heat created by increasing the voltage to the CPU-NB is crazy. Second, there isn't a performance increase worth the extra heat and power. 3rd in my case anything past 2400 and my Windows Aero is all sorts of messed up.
> 
> Currently I sit at 2365 on my cpu-nb with stock voltage. (215x11) my cpu is at 5052mhz (215x23.5)@ 1.525 volts Memory is at 2006mhz (215x9.33) timings are 9-9-9-24, 1T @ 1.65 volts Hyper Transport is at 2795.(215x13) This is actually the sweet spot for me, and I've benched real world things best with these settings. Increasing the memory speed and giving up the timings hurt performance in alot of cases. Higher CPU-NB speeds caused windows aero problems and maybe saw a small gain in performance ( and again increasing the CPU-NB voltage makes the cpu pump out EVEN more heat and use more power). Increasing the hypertransport speed did actually net some gains in games, small but it was there and measurable.
> 
> Btw I know people have had problems with the motherboard warping around the VRM area. I made a aluminum back plate for the VRM section. Improved temps and keeps the board from warping. I should be posting a how-to here shortly.


CPU-NB can be raised beyond 2400 MHz on GIGA boards. It has been discussed and proven already. Just avoid the CPU-NB Multi X12, Add some FSB while keeping it at x11 or go straight to x13.

Also, RAM can be overclocked in many ways.

1. You can get lucky and be able to extract an extra 266 MHz without loosening the Timings just by adding a few mV on RAM Voltage.

2. Or you can tighten the timings a couple of notches down while keeping the Frequency.

3. Factory Overclocking for the RAMs on the other hand follows a simple rule:

Get a standard 1600 9-9-9-24-1T-1.3V, OC it to 1866 9-10-9-27-1T-1.5V or 2133 10-11-10-1T-1.5V and other stuff. Upping the Frequency and Loosening the timings and some Voltage Bumps.

For the gains, there are so many things we cannot see a computer is doing. But to claim there is no gain on OC'ing the RAMs or CPU-NB is pure ignorance.

Try to OC like number 1 and 2 so you'll see wonders on the gains.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> CPU-NB can be raised beyond 2400 MHz on GIGA boards. It has been discussed and proven already. Just avoid the CPU-NB Multi X12, Add some FSB while keeping it at x11 or go straight to x13.
> 
> Also, RAM can be overclocked in many ways.
> 
> 1. You can get lucky and be able to extract an extra 266 MHz without loosening the Timings just by adding a few mV on RAM Voltage.
> 
> 2. Or you can tighten the timings a couple of notches down while keeping the Frequency.
> 
> 3. Factory Overclocking for the RAMs on the other hand follows a simple rule:
> 
> Get a standard 1600 9-9-9-24-1T-1.3V, OC it to 1866 9-10-9-27-1T-1.5V or 2133 10-11-10-1T-1.5V and other stuff. Upping the Frequency and Loosening the timings and some Voltage Bumps.
> 
> For the gains, there are so many things we cannot see a computer is doing. But to claim there is no gain on OC'ing the RAMs or CPU-NB is pure ignorance.
> 
> Try to OC like number 1 and 2 so you'll see wonders on the gains.


did you even read what i said? I did say there was small gains from increasing the Cpu-NB, truth is its NOT WORTH the extra heat and the additional power consumption.

In Almost all benchmarks I have run, tighter timings beat out frequency.

In my benchmarks, Not many have come close to my scores..... Besides the point if you bothered to notice you will see my memory is running at 2006mhz with 9-9-9-24 -1T timings. In other words go bark at someone else.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ebd...13/516ghzcinebenchresize_zps0cf23443.png.html


----------



## GroovyMotion

Hey guys, haven't been here for a while but something weird happened a few days ago! All my fans and PSU are running 100% even with very little RAM/CPU usage! I am running bone stock, haven't played any games for a long while, just doing some web dev. I haven't touched anything in the BIOS, everything stock but fans run as if it was under OC! Even as I type my cpu is very quiet and RAM usage is @24%! I even opened the doors of the casing and open the window but the freakin thing is just eating fan juice! I have filters and they are all clean so I really don't know what is going on! The cpu temp is as high as when I was under OC even worst sometimes! Yesterday it peaked at 69C, I found the culprit it was mailbird that thing is juice sucker but even if it's not running I can see 65C!
Could it be the mobo?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> did you even read what i said? I did say there was small gains from increasing the Cpu-NB, truth is its NOT WORTH the extra heat and the additional power consumption.
> 
> In Almost all benchmarks I have run, tighter timings beat out frequency.
> 
> In my benchmarks, Not many have come close to my scores..... Besides the point if you bothered to notice you will see my memory is running at 2006mhz with 9-9-9-24 -1T timings. In other words go bark at someone else.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ebd...13/516ghzcinebenchresize_zps0cf23443.png.html


WoW!!

Kind words there.

Would you mind going down to 4.5 so we can compare scores? Not so many can match that, CORRECT. Since not so many in here belongs to the

FIIIIVVVE GIGAHURTZ CLUB

Not worth the extra heat? On WATER?

You must be joking.

Just because you are doing good on your venture, you shouldn't listen to other people.

Or is it because you never found a way to get past 2400 on CPU-NB without issues on Windows Aero?

Not barking here. Nor starting a flame. Just saying the facts.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Hey guys, haven't been here for a while but something weird happened a few days ago! All my fans and PSU are running 100% even with very little RAM/CPU usage! I am running bone stock, haven't played any games for a long while, just doing some web dev. I haven't touched anything in the BIOS, everything stock but fans run as if it was under OC! Even as I type my cpu is very quiet and RAM usage is @24%! I even opened the doors of the casing and open the window but the freakin thing is just eating fan juice! I have filters and they are all clean so I really don't know what is going on! The cpu temp is as high as when I was under OC even worst sometimes! Yesterday it peaked at 69C, I found the culprit it was mailbird that thing is juice sucker but even if it's not running I can see 65C!
> Could it be the mobo?


Windows infections I should say.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> WoW!!
> 
> Kind words there.
> 
> Would you mind going down to 4.5 so we can compare scores? Not so many can match that, CORRECT. Since not so many in here belongs to the
> 
> FIIIIVVVE GIGAHURTZ CLUB
> 
> Not worth the extra heat? On WATER?
> 
> You must be joking.
> 
> Just because you are doing good on your venture, you shouldn't listen to other people.
> 
> Or is it because you never found a way to get past 2400 on CPU-NB without issues on Windows Aero?
> 
> Not barking here. Nor starting a flame. Just saying the facts.


All i am going to say now is wolf wolf.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> All i am going to say now is wolf wolf.


The attitude!! Nice try


----------



## ebduncan

your welcome to try and match my scores. Oh wait you cannot.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> your welcome to try and match my scores. Oh wait you cannot.


HAHA.

You're a funny little man..


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Standard 3.5mm Jacks will accommodate 3.5mm Plugs without issues.
> 
> Unless the Jacks have defects in the case. Like I stated.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea no , it does not make as much of a difference because of ram speed, if you are pushing 2400 ram it can help 2133 or less 2400/2600 is plenty
> 
> 2400 ram does make a difference, stating that it does not, is like saying there is no difference between 85 and 95 ( or what ever octane you have in your country, low/ high ) for your car, there is a difference, most people just dont understand what it is, and when they "dont see it" they tell everyone there is no performance gains in real world, which is false, as it would depend on what you do with your pc, and not a blanket statement
> 
> 
> 
> There are no performance gains from using higher octane fuel in 99% of production vehicles, most are tuned to run on the lower octane fuel. Some performance cars require high octane fuel and no less, or they will ping themselves to death. You can get performance gains from higher octane fuel in any cars that is not tuned for it, by re-tuning and reworking the ignition tables for more advanced timing, or increasing the compression ratio etc etc.
> 
> Back to the land of computers. Stock NB speed is 2200 for most FX processors. Most people who overclock memory are going after raw read/write/copy speeds This type of overclocking as very small real world gains as to get higher raw speed, the timings become loose. You see better gains by decreasing the latency of the memory (AKA timings).
> 
> I don't like to overclock the CPU-NB, first the extra heat created by increasing the voltage to the CPU-NB is crazy. Second, there isn't a performance increase worth the extra heat and power. 3rd in my case anything past 2400 and my Windows Aero is all sorts of messed up.
> 
> Currently I sit at 2365 on my cpu-nb with stock voltage. (215x11) my cpu is at 5052mhz (215x23.5)@ 1.525 volts Memory is at 2006mhz (215x9.33) timings are 9-9-9-24, 1T @ 1.65 volts Hyper Transport is at 2795.(215x13) This is actually the sweet spot for me, and I've benched real world things best with these settings. Increasing the memory speed and giving up the timings hurt performance in alot of cases. Higher CPU-NB speeds caused windows aero problems and maybe saw a small gain in performance ( and again increasing the CPU-NB voltage makes the cpu pump out EVEN more heat and use more power). Increasing the hypertransport speed did actually net some gains in games, small but it was there and measurable.
> 
> Btw I know people have had problems with the motherboard warping around the VRM area. I made a aluminum back plate for the VRM section. Improved temps and keeps the board from warping. I should be posting a how-to here shortly.
Click to expand...

some of my response is below, but first lets run a top of the line engine ( assuming you are not at high altitude ) ie top end Corvette, viper or any highly tuned engine ( hemis ) there is a huge difference, however like all things it has to be used correctly, and TUNED properly. where i normally agree with you, i will have to agree to disagree on this point,

back to pcs, jsut because you dont like to oc cpu/nb thats great! but i do just for the challenge, you bring out cinebench i would love to you beat my 3dm11 physics score, people have but not many and i can count them on one hand ( on water NOT phase or above ! and not on home made chillers )
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6664211

as for ht you dont run quadfire last i knew, where i do not need 3900ht for it, i like it just because i can, yes it adds heat and minimizes max oc, but that is what i am ok with, because i can although i dont claim it has magical gains, ocing ht has been proven to be very very beneficial to quadfire setups

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> Hi megaman
> 
> How can ı work my corsair dominator gt ram @2000 mhz on 990fxa ud7 rev1.0
> 
> My current speed 9 10 9 27 @1600 mhz 4 dimm slot
> 
> My cpu fx9590


you should be able to get that however you will be ocing the imc and there is a chance you can not, one thing you will need to do is overvolt the ram by 1 or 2 bumps ( ~ .005-.01 ) set speed and timings, and may need to increase cpu/nb by .1v, and the northbridge as well ( FROM STOCK VALUES ) let me know if this does not work
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> We'll I've got my 4770k installed, and windows updating. Can't wait to see how this thing works out.
> 
> I'm going to use my FX8320 for a server PC most likely. I've got it, that 990FXA-UD5, and 8 gb ram sitting around now. Not sure how power efficient it will be, but, I'm not worried about that.
> 
> I have to mention, the 990FXA-UD5 feels much beefier than the Maximus VI Hero. Also, I'm 1 internal USB connector short. So, no front panel SD card reader, since the H100i takes one up, and the case usb connections take up the other.


one idea for you if you need that
http://www.nzxt.com/product/detail/99-iu01-usb-expansion-case-accessory

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> CPU-NB can be raised beyond 2400 MHz on GIGA boards. It has been discussed and proven already. Just avoid the CPU-NB Multi X12, Add some FSB while keeping it at x11 or go straight to x13.
> 
> Also, RAM can be overclocked in many ways.
> 
> 1. You can get lucky and be able to extract an extra 266 MHz without loosening the Timings just by adding a few mV on RAM Voltage.
> 
> 2. Or you can tighten the timings a couple of notches down while keeping the Frequency.
> 
> 3. Factory Overclocking for the RAMs on the other hand follows a simple rule:
> 
> Get a standard 1600 9-9-9-24-1T-1.3V, OC it to 1866 9-10-9-27-1T-1.5V or 2133 10-11-10-1T-1.5V and other stuff. Upping the Frequency and Loosening the timings and some Voltage Bumps.
> 
> For the gains, there are so many things we cannot see a computer is doing. But to claim there is no gain on OC'ing the RAMs or CPU-NB is pure ignorance.
> 
> Try to OC like number 1 and 2 so you'll see wonders on the gains.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> did you even read what i said? I did say there was small gains from increasing the Cpu-NB, truth is its NOT WORTH the extra heat and the additional power consumption.
> 
> In Almost all benchmarks I have run, tighter timings beat out frequency.
> 
> In my benchmarks, Not many have come close to my scores..... Besides the point if you bothered to notice you will see my memory is running at 2006mhz with 9-9-9-24 -1T timings. In other words go bark at someone else.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ebd...13/516ghzcinebenchresize_zps0cf23443.png.html
Click to expand...

i would love to test mine, but atm it is impossible as it is in multi pieces as i am modding the case and system in a few months when i am done i will be glad to see.

one simple case where you are completely incorrect is for example ram disk, which although you may not use, does not mean everyone is just like you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Hey guys, haven't been here for a while but something weird happened a few days ago! All my fans and PSU are running 100% even with very little RAM/CPU usage! I am running bone stock, haven't played any games for a long while, just doing some web dev. I haven't touched anything in the BIOS, everything stock but fans run as if it was under OC! Even as I type my cpu is very quiet and RAM usage is @24%! I even opened the doors of the casing and open the window but the freakin thing is just eating fan juice! I have filters and they are all clean so I really don't know what is going on! The cpu temp is as high as when I was under OC even worst sometimes! Yesterday it peaked at 69C, I found the culprit it was mailbird that thing is juice sucker but even if it's not running I can see 65C!
> Could it be the mobo?


yea i really dont understand what you said what is mailbird?
pics of things like task manager to show cpu useage ? is it possible you have a virus ? i have seen some where you for example mine for others
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> WoW!!
> 
> Kind words there.


@ebduncan is a very knowledgeable user who is normally correct, however he does not sugar coat much and is blunt, he means no disrespect mostly


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Btw I know people have had problems with the motherboard warping around the VRM area. I made a aluminum back plate for the VRM section. Improved temps and keeps the board from warping. I should be posting a how-to here shortly.


Very interested in this! My board is warped. Didn't know it was until I completely removed it to add waterblocks to NB and mosfets. Will the back plate help straighten it if it's already warped? Or only good for preventing warping?

You can see the warping here in the bottom right where the blue and red USB connectors are.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> did you even read what i said? I did say there was small gains from increasing the Cpu-NB, truth is its NOT WORTH the extra heat and the additional power consumption.
> 
> In Almost all benchmarks I have run, tighter timings beat out frequency.
> 
> In my benchmarks, Not many have come close to my scores..... Besides the point if you bothered to notice you will see my memory is running at 2006mhz with 9-9-9-24 -1T timings. In other words go bark at someone else.
> 
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ebd...13/516ghzcinebenchresize_zps0cf23443.png.html


Be interested in your Cinebench R15 scores. No one has beat mine on air/water yet. Don't think anyone has gotten the efficiency as high either but there's not that many people on there, not as much competition. Typically getting same or higher scores at lower CPU clocks then others on there.


----------



## ebduncan

I might try and bench my system again, before the summer. I removed my crossfire 7950's in favor of a single R9-290, and put it under water. Ever since I added the GPU to the cooling loop its hard to achieve the super great cpu temps I had before though. I'm sure I can still reach 5160mhz or higher though , granted stability is questionable. I haven't tried since I added the VRM back plate on the motherboard either, that could help. My board is rev 1.0 so I don't get the luxury of LLC.

MegaMan is correct, I am blunt. Sorry if you think I insult you in anyway, I am not trying to get at you.

Speaking of Megaman, that is certainly a good physic's score I'm right at 9k with my daily clocks (5ghz). Using windows 7 -64bit, apparently windows 8 hurts the physic's scores so i have read anyways. Also on the Ram disk thing Bandwidth is all that matters there so frequency trumps timings. Not many folks use a Ram Disk though.
Quote:


> Very interested in this! My board is warped. Didn't know it was until I completely removed it to add waterblocks to NB and mosfets. Will the back plate help straighten it if it's already warped? Or only good for preventing warping?
> 
> You can see the warping here in the bottom right where the blue and red USB connectors are


Adding the back plate fixed the problem for me where some of the vrm mosfets wouldn't make good contact with the thermal pad/VRM heatsink. If your board is currently warped and your VRM do not make good contact, the back plate will fix it. It should prevent warping all together, per the increased cooling capacity and rigidity it adds. Its only for the VRM section. Its possible to make a larger back plate, I just didn't think it was needed. I make experiment more to add behind the cpu socket as well.

I plan on cleaning out the computer sometime this week and I will take pictures of how its done. I know a lot of you guys like ozzy, have had problems with the VRM section on the board.


----------



## Chargeit

@Mega Man

Cool thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Speaking of Megaman, that is certainly a good physic's score I'm right at 9k with my daily clocks (5ghz). Using windows 7 -64bit, apparently windows 8 hurts the physic's scores so i have read anyways. Also on the Ram disk thing Bandwidth is all that matters there so frequency trumps timings. Not many folks use a Ram Disk though.


anywhere from 500-1500 i have seen and can verify by booting to win 7 ( both me and my friends and both intel and amd is in this )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> @Mega Man
> 
> Cool thanks.


np i have one and love it !~ wish more people made it !~ in the internal usbs ( not headers ) i have the logitech wireless and i am going to get a bluetooth module so it does not take up a back port


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Adding the back plate fixed the problem for me where some of the vrm mosfets wouldn't make good contact with the thermal pad/VRM heatsink. If your board is currently warped and your VRM do not make good contact, the back plate will fix it. It should prevent warping all together, per the increased cooling capacity and rigidity it adds. Its only for the VRM section. Its possible to make a larger back plate, I just didn't think it was needed. I make experiment more to add behind the cpu socket as well.
> 
> I plan on cleaning out the computer sometime this week and I will take pictures of how its done. I know a lot of you guys like ozzy, have had problems with the VRM section on the board.


Ya the middle mosfets weren't making good contact at all. I was using Fujipoly Extreme and added screws instead of plastic pushpins too. To try and counteract this with the waterblock I added extra Fujipoly in the middle to try and make up for the warp in the middle.

Any way you'll make a backplate or two for like $10 for us lazy people?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ya the middle mosfets weren't making good contact at all. I was using Fujipoly Extreme and added screws instead of plastic pushpins too. To try and counteract this with the waterblock I added extra Fujipoly in the middle to try and make up for the warp in the middle.
> 
> Any way you'll make a backplate or two for like $10 for us lazy people?


I do have left over aluminum bar. I could probably make 4-5 more. I don't have any extra thermal pads laying around though. If you interested after I post pictures up, I wouldn't have a problem of making another.


----------



## M3TAl

Now that I think about it more not sure it would even work with this waterblock. Would probably have to get longer screws to compensate for the aluminium thickness. Maybe add some washers if the length of the screw is too much.









The screws for the waterblock go on the backside where the aluminium plate would be and screw into the copper block.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RULINGCHAOS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Standard 3.5mm Jacks will accommodate 3.5mm Plugs without issues.
> 
> Unless the Jacks have defects in the case. Like I stated.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the Black Jack can be configured via Realtek's utility. But auto muting of the rear audio ports can only be triggered by the front headers.
Click to expand...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> MegaMan is correct, I am blunt. Sorry if you think I insult you in anyway, I am not trying to get at you.


no worries. Apologies as well


----------



## RULINGCHAOS

Ahh nice .. the broken front headers would have fixed it. I suppose I can put a front audio panel in one of the bays if I really wanted to. Thank you for your help.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yea i really dont understand what you said what is mailbird?
> pics of things like task manager to show cpu useage ? is it possible you have a virus ? i have seen some where you for example mine for others


MailBird is a great email app, very tiny but there is an issue with extreme use of RAM/CPU at the moment.

Here is a capture as of right now without MailBird, check out the temps it's insane!


----------



## Mega Man

whats your vcore at ?


----------



## GroovyMotion

vcore is set at default, everything is in the bios

*edit* if I leave my pc and it gets in idle everything is fine and fans are at the min. and psu fan is sleeping


----------



## Alxz

Hi guys, have you ever had problems with the PCIE x16 ports?
I'm using an evga 660ti and i cant just use it in any of the pcie x16 of my UD5; it only works on the PCIE x8 Port dunno why... is there a reason for that?

I tried using an old 6670 on both slots and they work just fine,...

FX6300
CX750M
EVGA 660TI

(just in case, i have two UD5s







)


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Hi guys, have you ever had problems with the PCIE x16 ports?


I just have a UD3 but I'm getting 16x PCIe 2.0 * 2 GTX 760 SLI according to GPUz

I think you should double check all connections like PCIe power, reset the BIOS to default, and and if that's not it, contact gigabyte for RMA.

660ti is a nice video board and you should get 16x.


----------



## SubFocused

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Hi guys, have you ever had problems with the PCIE x16 ports?
> I'm using an evga 660ti and i cant just use it in any of the pcie x16 of my UD5; it only works on the PCIE x8 Port dunno why... is there a reason for that?
> 
> I tried using an old 6670 on both slots and they work just fine,...
> 
> FX6300
> CX750M
> EVGA 660TI
> 
> (just in case, i have two UD5s
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


First, what do you mean it doesn't work? No POST? You get video but windows doesn't recognize the card? Black screen telling you to connect the power connectors?

Second, what power supply are you using? Does it have pcie connectors? Or are you using adapters?

If I'm not mistaken the 6670 doesn't require extra power from the psu but the 660ti does. I ran in to this issue using an old 585 psu with a 760 that I had that didn't have pcie connectors so I used the adapters, and they failed. If you have a psu with pcie connectors, find a voltmeter and make sure you are getting power to the card. I'd hate for you to RMA the board, if the board isn't the issue, especially since your 6670 works fine in the x16 slots...


----------



## GroovyMotion

vcore is set at 1.296 (default)
Right now I am greaking out, the cpu jumps to 80C within 20sec after startup and shuts down. I checked everything, all mobo sensors are cool, all fans are working and voltage is good on all counts. Just the TMPIN1 and cpu package that goes through the roof!









What is the difference between TMPIN1 and temperatures package?


*edit* TMPIN1 went to 100C!









NB HS is warm but I can leave my hand on it, everything else is cool.

*edit* I put up a window fan at high directly on the side of the open case and TMPIN1 max at 50C with a few apps opened...I guess my H60 is not enough for my cpu but it's weird I am not even OC

*edit* even with that big fan the TMPIN1 went to 84C under load and TMPIN2 @75C!
I really don't know what to do now. Any ideas? Is the CPU dying after 3 months?









Here is another graph at idle:

You can clearly see the hude differences with TMPIN1 and 2!


----------



## Chargeit

I remember you had issues with getting stable off of a simple multiplier/voltage. Maybe the root of that problem is surfacing?

*I was able to get a quick and stable OC off of multiplier / voltage on my ol'ladys fx 6300 / 970a-ud3 in no time. It think your board is the issue. Time to RMA that sucker?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> TMPIN0 is the mobo ambient temp
> TMPIN1 is NB temp (Debated)
> TMPIN2 is debated, but seems to be the Socket temp on later revisions boards, since it's closely related to the cpu temp. (I think for rev 3+ boards this is socket)


no

TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
TMPIN1 = CPU Temp/Socket
TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp/VRM

its been debated numerous of times in this thread. This is the general understanding.

Groovy those temps are high, your cpu temp is to high. Are you sure you installed your cooler properly? or have you verified that its making good contact with the CPU? Also If your using HW monitor its known to glitch. I personally use Open Hardware Monitor and get better results. Also the H60 is enough of a cooler for a CPU at stock.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> no
> 
> TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
> TMPIN1 = CPU Temp/Socket
> TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp/VRM
> 
> its been debated numerous of times in this thread. This is the general understanding.
> 
> Groovy those temps are high, your cpu temp is to high. Are you sure you installed your cooler properly? or have you verified that its making good contact with the CPU? Also If your using HW monitor its known to glitch. I personally use Open Hardware Monitor and get better results. Also the H60 is enough of a cooler for a CPU at stock.


I've never seen it listed like that, as in the TMPIN1 and 2 being reversed. It would make sense both ways from the temps.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I remember you had issues with getting stable off of a simple multiplier/voltage. Maybe the root of that problem is surfacing?
> 
> *I was able to get a quick and stable OC off of multiplier / voltage on my ol'ladys fx 6300 / 970a-ud3 in no time. It think your board is the issue. Time to RMA that sucker?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> no
> 
> TMPIN0 = Sytem (Motherboard) Temp
> TMPIN1 = CPU Temp/Socket
> TMPIN2 = Northbridge Temp/VRM
> 
> its been debated numerous of times in this thread. This is the general understanding.
> 
> Groovy those temps are high, your cpu temp is to high. Are you sure you installed your cooler properly? or have you verified that its making good contact with the CPU? Also If your using HW monitor its known to glitch. I personally use Open Hardware Monitor and get better results. Also the H60 is enough of a cooler for a CPU at stock.


Yeah the H60 is properly fixed because 2 months ago I would run at 4.4-4.5 OC every night with no issues and temps were at 53C max!









My NB is not that hot but the issue might be the VRM then.
So it's either the cpu or the mobo. I will install Open Hardware Mon and report.

Thanks

*edit* Open HW Mon reports the same temps!

If the VRM are defective could it increase the cpu temp like crazy?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah the H60 is properly fixed because 2 months ago I would run at 4.4-4.5 OC every night with no issues and temps were at 53C max!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My NB is not that hot but the issue might be the VRM then.
> So it's either the cpu or the mobo. I will install Open Hardware Mon and report.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> *edit* Open HW Mon reports the same temps!
> 
> If the VRM are defective could it increase the cpu temp like crazy?


It could, but usually in the case of VRM problems it will just stop working all together. Honestly I would remove the cooler and remount. Just because it was fine 2 months ago doesn't mean it is now. A screw could have backed out or something, or the thermal paste could have dried out etc... I'd also check the VRM heatsink to make sure its secured properly. If you still having issues, I would contact Gigabyte for tech support/RMA if its still under warranty, they will check the board and verify its either the problem or not.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> It could, but usually in the case of VRM problems it will just stop working all together. Honestly I would remove the cooler and remount. Just because it was fine 2 months ago doesn't mean it is now. A screw could have backed out or something, or the thermal paste could have dried out etc... I'd also check the VRM heatsink to make sure its secured properly. If you still having issues, I would contact Gigabyte for tech support/RMA if its still under warranty, they will check the board and verify its either the problem or not.


Ok will check the cooler and also the front stock corsair fan might not be enough to send cool air so I might order the Cougar Vortex


----------



## GroovyMotion

@ebduncan You were right on with the cooler! I unplugged it, cleaned all the old paste, put in new one and replugged it. Temp went from almost 90C to 51C under load!









Btw, I noticed something was wrong with the cooling because one of the hose was cool and the other one very hot!

*edit* the heat is on again...up to 84C with just UMplayer running even paused. One of the cooler's hoses is still much much hotter than the other so I guess it's craping out!








When at idle I get the same temp as earlier which is pretty darn cool! I think that the casing doesn't have enough cool air coming in and the heat gets trapped in and probably a faulty H60


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> @ebduncan You were right on with the cooler! I unplugged it, cleaned all the old paste, put in new one and replugged it. Temp went from almost 90C to 51C under load!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I noticed something was wrong with the cooling because one of the hose was cool and the other one very hot!
> 
> *edit* the heat is on again...up to 84C with just UMplayer running even paused. One of the cooler's hoses is still much much hotter than the other so I guess it's craping out!


One is cool because it comes out from the radiator. The other is hot because it comes from the hot CPU.

On another note, leaving everything to auto seemed to be the issue. Try manually setting your Vcore and others..

EDIT:

Cougar Vortex - is a bad idea if you are looking for a fan to give you air.. I have a total of 7 just for the bling..


----------



## simsim44

one hose being noticeably greater in temp, could also indicate there is a flow issue, or the lack thereof, or slow flow, which points to a restriction, air pocket or pump concern. just saying


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> One is cool because it comes out from the radiator. The other is hot because it comes from the hot CPU.
> 
> On another note, leaving everything to auto seemed to be the issue. Try manually setting your Vcore and others..
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Cougar Vortex - is a bad idea if you are looking for a fan to give you air.. I have a total of 7 just for the bling..


Thanks for the advice on the fan...and I decided to run the same test but with Open Hardware Mon and it's max temp is 57C with FF and divx full size! So there is definitely something wrong with HWMon.

As for the vcore and other you mean set them to the same vaules but manually? disable the green stuff?


----------



## Chargeit

I love these myself.

Black
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553009

Orange
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553008

I use them as front intakes on my ol'lady and I systems. They work great, tons of air pressure. Shoot, and priced to sell. I bought them thinking I'd move to better 120's later, and have never felt the need to replace.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> @ebduncan You were right on with the cooler! I unplugged it, cleaned all the old paste, put in new one and replugged it. Temp went from almost 90C to 51C under load!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I noticed something was wrong with the cooling because one of the hose was cool and the other one very hot!
> 
> *edit* the heat is on again...up to 84C with just UMplayer running even paused. One of the cooler's hoses is still much much hotter than the other so I guess it's craping out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One is cool because it comes out from the radiator. The other is hot because it comes from the hot CPU.
> 
> On another note, leaving everything to auto seemed to be the issue. Try manually setting your Vcore and others..
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Cougar Vortex - is a bad idea if you are looking for a fan to give you air.. I have a total of 7 just for the bling..
Click to expand...




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*


really ? dont tell that to wermad...

they are fine fans, they are very quiet, they are not the best for pure perf, but they work great for rads and wanting silence
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> One is cool because it comes out from the radiator. The other is hot because it comes from the hot CPU.
> 
> On another note, leaving everything to auto seemed to be the issue. Try manually setting your Vcore and others..
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Cougar Vortex - is a bad idea if you are looking for a fan to give you air.. I have a total of 7 just for the bling..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice on the fan...and I decided to run the same test but with Open Hardware Mon and it's max temp is 57C with FF and divx full size! So there is definitely something wrong with HWMon.
> 
> As for the vcore and other you mean set them to the same vaules but manually? disable the green stuff?
Click to expand...

just use hwinfo and forget about the rest !


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really ? dont tell that to wermad...
> 
> they are fine fans, they are very quiet, they are not the best for pure perf, but they work great for rads and wanting silence
> just use hwinfo and forget about the rest !


I love when a system doesn't even look like a computer any longer. Does that beast dispense Mountain dew or something?


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really ? dont tell that to wermad...
> 
> they are fine fans, they are very quiet, they are not the best for pure perf, but they work great for rads and wanting silence
> just use hwinfo and forget about the rest !


This is some serious hardware!









But HWInfo was giving me high temps and according to those my pc should have shutdown and with Open HW Mon all is fine with several apps open


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really ? dont tell that to wermad...
> 
> they are fine fans, they are very quiet, they are not the best for pure perf, but they work great for rads and wanting silence
> just use hwinfo and forget about the rest !


And I said it's a bad fan if you need air. Lots of air in that aspect.

That build is filled with humongous rads and can sacrifice fan performance and rather opt for a silent rig.. Not a H60 that needs a better fan in the case of this user.

That's the difference I consider.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really ? dont tell that to wermad...
> 
> they are fine fans, they are very quiet, they are not the best for pure perf, but they work great for rads and wanting silence
> just use hwinfo and forget about the rest !
> 
> 
> 
> This is some serious hardware!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But HWInfo was giving me high temps and according to those my pc should have shutdown and with Open HW Mon all is fine with several apps open
Click to expand...

have you talked to then via their forums ? he is very quick to respond !


----------



## M3TAl

I've got 10 Cougar Vortex fans, all the 1500-1600 RPM PWM version and 8 of them painted white. They are decent fans that move a decent amount of air and have decent pressure. Certainly there are better fans out there, Vortexes are no holy grail and I didn't pay full price for any of them. Every fan was bought on sale and two were used/BNIB from OCN Marketplace. They performed better than my Swiftech Helix fans on a Kuhler 920 & 620 rad.

Out of the 10 Vortexes 3 of them have serious problems with PWM; clicking, ticking, refusing to run same RPM as the other fans, or just not turning at all at low RPM's. So I just run those 3 off voltage on a fan controller with 0 issues. I run all 12 of my fans at ~800 RPM unless the temperature alarm I set in SpeedFan goes off.

This system isn't silent but it's damn quiet and I love it


----------



## GroovyMotion

ok but what about me that is struggling what is the solution. I don't focus on OC right now I just need this pc to be stable so I can pump up some websites and afford a roof lol.
Is a vortex going to help me? I have stock corsair fans that came with the Carbide 330R and the H60, I can handle some noise if it can solve my issue without costing me more than my car payment lol


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have you talked to then via their forums ? he is very quick to respond !


No I haven't since the issue happened yesterday and I wanted to throw my pc out the window lol.
I will check it out thanks


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> No I haven't since the issue happened yesterday and I wanted to throw my pc out the window lol.
> I will check it out thanks


Did you keep your stock heatsink around? Might be a good idea to try it out.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> ok but what about me that is struggling what is the solution. I don't focus on OC right now I just need this pc to be stable so I can pump up some websites and afford a roof lol.
> Is a vortex going to help me? I have stock corsair fans that came with the Carbide 330R and the H60, I can handle some noise if it can solve my issue without costing me more than my car payment lol


I'd suggest try out manual Voltages.

Auto ramps up too much voltage in my opinion..

In my opinion, NO. Your cooler is too small and needs better fan than the Vortexes.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Did you keep your stock heatsink around? Might be a good idea to try it out.


That's a good question lol...since I bought 2 cpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'd suggest try out manual Voltages.
> 
> Auto ramps up too much voltage in my opinion..
> 
> In my opinion, NO. Your cooler is too small and needs better fan than the Vortexes.


so I will try to down-vault, was about to lower the cpu stock speeds but will try the voltage
So what should I get then in order to keep the heat off without having to wear ear muffs!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> That's a good question lol...since I bought 2 cpu.
> so I will try to down-vault, was about to lower the cpu stock speeds but will try the voltage
> So what should I get then in order to keep the heat off without having to wear ear muffs!


I should say, you first try to diagnose your system's heating up problem rather than opting right away for the fans.

You shouldn't be getting those temps at stock CPU Frequency in the first place. So you must get rid of the issue.

Keep your voltage first to +0000 if on offset.


----------



## vonss

I finally replaced the plastic push-pins on my NB with nuts, bolts and washers (and re did the MX-2); to be honest it did less of a temperature diference then I was hoping for; at stock "idle" is -10c aprox. It sits at around 35c when before it started at around 50c right off the bat that I hoping for, though when OC'ed and on load, it keeps the temperature more under control. As long as it does not get over 60C I'm okay with it but once I get a replacement for the HS I seriosuly hope it makes a proper difference in temperature, more so then just adding a fan to the stock HS.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I should say, you first try to diagnose your system's heating up problem rather than opting right away for the fans.
> 
> You shouldn't be getting those temps at stock CPU Frequency in the first place. So you must get rid of the issue.
> 
> Keep your voltage first to +0000 if on offset.


Ok that's what I thought...it only offers me to set it to +0000
As for the heat issue it's much "warmer" here now so I'd say the room temp went up by about 7C.
The corsair stock fans really don't blow much of fresh air in or out that's why I am contemplating on ditching them.

You see, just by putting my case on top of my desk and beside the window the cpu temp drops by almost 20C

*edit* my issue is definitely airflow because my temp never exceeded 53C and I am running several apps.


----------



## ebduncan

Interesting. I told you about HW monitor. I don't think there is anything wrong with the program, it just doesn't work well with the AMD Gigabyte boards. I think the polling rate is to high and can cause malfunctions in temperature reporting. Open Hardware Monitor doesn't have this issue for me.

Quickest way to test if airflow is causing heat build up, is to simply remove the side panel.

Also for those waiting for my how-to on the motherboard back plate. I should have it posted by Saturday night.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Interesting. I told you about HW monitor. I don't think there is anything wrong with the program, it just doesn't work well with the AMD Gigabyte boards. I think the polling rate is to high and can cause malfunctions in temperature reporting. Open Hardware Monitor doesn't have this issue for me.
> 
> Quickest way to test if airflow is causing heat build up, is to simply remove the side panel.
> 
> Also for those waiting for my how-to on the motherboard back plate. I should have it posted by Saturday night.


It's a crazy difference in temp reading.
Actually I leave the side casing door removed in order to get the most fresh air in. If I close the side and front doors the temp rises considerably.
I really need better cooling...the top fan is not that bad, it's drawing air out but it's not that warm so it means it's not sucking enough heat out?!

And the issue with the front large fan is that it sends air but too low in the middle of the casing. You can barely feel it's air passing beyond the RAM so there is little to none cool air at the NB point


----------



## ginger_nuts

I am redoing my OC for my 690 III build.

I am wondering if the following is OK. Mind you I do have all energy saving features on. I believe, if it is what I want to run every day, I should test with them on as well.


----------



## ebduncan

Ok. Well as promised I was cleaning my computer out today and decided to repeat the process I did to make a back plate for the VRM section of the board.

Note: If you use Aluminum bar that is only 1/2" wide you will not have to grind anything, I had 3/4" wide bar laying around so that is what I used.

Materials used

-Aluminum bar 1/8" thick, 3/4" wide, roughly 95mm Long
-0.5mm thermal pad 95mm long x 2
-Two Nuts and Bolts (forget the exact size)
-Thermal Paste (NON CONDUCTIVE!)
-Electrical Tape
-Permanent marker ( I used blue)

Step one. You will have to cut the Aluminum bar It needs to be at least 95mm long, and no longer than 100mm.

Step two. Place the Stock VRM heatsink on top of the Aluminum plate and mark the holes for drlling. Drill the holes. Test fit the screws to make sure you have proper fitment.


Step 3. Place the Plate on the back of the motherboard. You will see solder points that you don't want this aluminum plate to touch. Mark your plate in the areas where there is contact or where the plate gets a little to close for comfort.


Step 4. Use a file or grinder or sorts to grind the spots you marked. I used a dremel with a (9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter)

Step 5. Test fit, if everything looks ok then proceed to wrap the plate in electrical tape (I recommend this, though it may not be needed) I certainly didn't want to take any chances when it comes to having this short the motherboard out. (I used one layer)

Step 6. Clean your VRMs, I used a old toothbrush to remove any dust. Then some q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol to get anything left over. Apply small drop of thermal paste on each VRM mosfet. NOTE YOU MUST USE NON CONDUCTIVE Thermal Paste. You don't need to use the thermal paste if you don't want to, but this helps the thermal transfer.

Step 7. Put a thermal pad on both the aluminum plate and on the vrm heatsink. Put back together. Make sure you tighten the nuts and bolts well. If your motherboard is warped this is critical.

Step 8. Your done. Enjoy the better passive cooling on the VRM, also say goodbye to the motherboard being warped in this area.


----------



## M3TAl

Good deal







Do they have sticks of aluminum at the hardware store for this, I don't have any. Got a dremel and drill though so that's no problem.

This will only work for my waterblock if I can find screws long enough... Not sure what size they were either but they were really small. Maybe M1 or M2? I'll have to take it out of the block and see.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Good deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do they have sticks of aluminum at the hardware store for this, I don't have any. Got a dremel and drill though so that's no problem.
> 
> This will only work for my waterblock if I can find screws long enough... Not sure what size they were either but they were really small. Maybe M1 or M2? I'll have to take it out of the block and see.


I am pretty sure I used M2 screws. I know Lowes sells aluminum bar in the hardware section.


----------



## M3TAl

Since I'm using a waterblock the screw size has to be just right. Same for the length. The screws goes right into the waterblock from the backside, where the aluminum bar will be.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Since I'm using a waterblock the screw size has to be just right. Same for the length. The screws goes right into the waterblock from the backside, where the aluminum bar will be.


Im sure you could use some washers to take up some slack if you got a longer screw and it was to long.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Ok. Well as promised I was cleaning my computer out today and decided to repeat the process I did to make a back plate for the VRM section of the board.
> 
> Note: If you use Aluminum bar that is only 1/2" wide you will not have to grind anything, I had 3/4" wide bar laying around so that is what I used.
> 
> Materials used
> 
> -Aluminum bar 1/8" thick, 3/4" wide, roughly 95mm Long
> -0.5mm thermal pad 95mm long x 2
> -Two Nuts and Bolts (forget the exact size)
> -Thermal Paste (NON CONDUCTIVE!)
> -Electrical Tape
> -Permanent marker ( I used blue)
> 
> Step one. You will have to cut the Aluminum bar It needs to be at least 95mm long, and no longer than 100mm.
> 
> Step two. Place the Stock VRM heatsink on top of the Aluminum plate and mark the holes for drlling. Drill the holes. Test fit the screws to make sure you have proper fitment.
> 
> 
> Step 3. Place the Plate on the back of the motherboard. You will see solder points that you don't want this aluminum plate to touch. Mark your plate in the areas where there is contact or where the plate gets a little to close for comfort.
> 
> 
> Step 4. Use a file or grinder or sorts to grind the spots you marked. I used a dremel with a (9901 Tungsten Carbide Cutter)
> 
> Step 5. Test fit, if everything looks ok then proceed to wrap the plate in electrical tape (I recommend this, though it may not be needed) I certainly didn't want to take any chances when it comes to having this short the motherboard out. (I used one layer)
> 
> Step 6. Clean your VRMs, I used a old toothbrush to remove any dust. Then some q-tips dipped in rubbing alcohol to get anything left over. Apply small drop of thermal paste on each VRM mosfet. NOTE YOU MUST USE NON CONDUCTIVE Thermal Paste. You don't need to use the thermal paste if you don't want to, but this helps the thermal transfer.
> 
> Step 7. Put a thermal pad on both the aluminum plate and on the vrm heatsink. Put back together. Make sure you tighten the nuts and bolts well. If your motherboard is warped this is critical.
> 
> Step 8. Your done. Enjoy the better passive cooling on the VRM, also say goodbye to the motherboard being warped in this area.


Great job..

Just wanna ask what Thermal Pad would you recommend?

I can only source out 3Ms and Shin-Etsus.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Phobya do a line, 0.5mm, 1.0mm and 1.5mm thickness.

If you can't find any locally or on eBay, *PCCG* might ship to you.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Phobya do a line, 0.5mm, 1.0mm and 1.5mm thickness.
> 
> If you can't find any locally or on eBay, *PCCG* might ship to you.


This is for the Shin Etsu.

Shipping would probably cost more than the item itself noting that I only need a small quantity to cover my needs.


----------



## ebduncan

^ that type of thermal pad will not work. Needs to be 0.5mm thick.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g8/c487/s1288/list/p1/Thermal_Interface-Thermal_Pads_Tape-Thermal_Pad_-_05mm_-Page1.html

many different types. If your doing the back plate thing, then you need one that is at least 95mm long and 16mm wide.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> ^ that type of thermal pad will not work. Needs to be 0.5mm thick.
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g8/c487/s1288/list/p1/Thermal_Interface-Thermal_Pads_Tape-Thermal_Pad_-_05mm_-Page1.html
> 
> many different types. If your doing the back plate thing, then you need one that is at least 95mm long and 16mm wide.


Yeah, I thought of that as well. But I'm also thinking about layers of them to form an acceptable thickness. I don't know if layering them would affect the temp conductivity though. Currently using PK-1 on my VRMs and a custom made HSF soldered into a copper bar. But I think a backplate will really help in my situation. Since my board tend to shut down at high clocks randomly without errors. Might be some of the VRM doesnt have enough contact with the Heatsink.

I also got some aluminum bars laying around and a dremel to make the backplate.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Yeah, I thought of that as well. But I'm also thinking about layers of them to form an acceptable thickness. I don't know if layering them would affect the temp conductivity though. Currently using PK-1 on my VRMs and a custom made HSF soldered into a copper bar. But I think a backplate will really help in my situation. Since my board tend to shut down at high clocks randomly without errors. Might be some of the VRM doesnt have enough contact with the Heatsink.
> 
> I also got some aluminum bars laying around and a dremel to make the backplate.


I had the same problem before I made my back plate. The Middle vrms were not making contact with the heatsink and they would cause the board to go into thermal shut down. It only happpened at the higher clocks, but simple fix.

You don't really need to use a thermal pad, You can use the 3m double sided foam tape as well ( at least i'm pretty sure it would hold up to the heat )

The backplate isn't really used for cooling, its there to prevent the board from warping so all your VRM's can make contact witth a Heatsink/water block. The reason you need the thermal pad on the backside is to isolate the plate from the board. Might as well use a thermal pad to transfer heat to the plate for a bit of passive cooling as well. You can use what ever you can think of there as long as it can tolerate the heat, and isolates the back plate from the motherboard ( you wouldn't want to short your board out)


----------



## SimpleJack

So I searched over and over and couldn't find anything on this. I installed this mobo bc the old asus m5a99fx pro couldn't handle the amd 9 series well. I have 2 gigabyte 760 ' I was really excited about sli. Hooked them up and plugged them in and voila.....nadda. In the geocentric control panel they are both recognized, but even with the sli sleeve on, there is no option to sli?

-removed one card reinstalled drivers
-added back card 2, reinstalled drivers.
-obviously reinstalled windows before
-spazzed out
-gave up

Help please! Oh this is on a fx9370, gigabyte ga990fxaud5 rev.3, 2 sticks patriot 4GB 1600 ram, 1tb drive, corsair hx850 psu.


----------



## M3TAl

Make sure you have the latest BIOS. Also maybe SLI only works on certain PCIEX slots? I believe for the UD3 (total of 4 PCIEX slots) SLI only worked on PCIEX4_1 & PCIEX4_2 slots. PCIEX16_1 & PCIEX16_2 were only for crossfire I think? Maybe it's the same for the UD5?


----------



## SimpleJack

So I updated bios and nothing at all. I put the cards in different spots and nothing. When i pull up nvidia control panel it pops open with no SLI option at all, although it recognizes both cards.I changed the PCI-e settings to Legacy, and nada. I have the 2 cards in the slots marked for PCIE_16 1 and 2. Updated windows, new driver, nothing....i'm not into that UltraSLI or whatever that alters bios to recognize it. Is it possible that the bridge is broken?


----------



## MadGoat

have you updated the driver with both card installed?

If you have, use driver cleaner and clear out the nvidia components in safe mode and try again.


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> have you updated the driver with both card installed?
> 
> If you have, use driver cleaner and clear out the nvidia components in safe mode and try again.


So literally remove the 2 cards?

I've installed the drivers with both cards in, several times in fact. I'll try this as soon as i get home!


----------



## mus1mus

Got the same issue...

But I haven't tried installing without the bridge, or plugging each card one after the other...

Might as well try..


----------



## SimpleJack

I tried with the giant bridge that was provided.ill try without it and report back asap!!


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> have you updated the driver with both card installed?
> 
> If you have, use driver cleaner and clear out the nvidia components in safe mode and try again.


So, i reset my bios to "optimized defaults", and then *shock & awe* my SSD came in and i reinstalled windows on it. Thus reinstalling all the drivers, both cards were in, without the SLI bridge when i installed the drivers. CLEAN!
Wait for it.......
NO ******* SLI

Any ideas? any kind of BIOS settings i might switch around? I'm more new than anythying (still figuring out how to get my HDD to show up in windows) and can use the help. Thanks in advance!


----------



## simsim44

for the drive, it needs to be allocated, as it is raw. if it is the new one you are referring to
for the SLI I would check the device manager to make sure they are both /all are showing . the info entered to obtain the necessary drivers is correct as well I assume. at that point I would do the trail and error run a 3d mark or something and get a numbered result, then remove or add a card and rerun the test is the numbers jiving, I am not that familiar with Nvidia, so waiting on a better reply maybe your best solution


----------



## MadGoat

Just some elimination I would go through in your situation:

try one card at a time, ensure both are recognized by windows and are fully able to install drivers and run a 3d test on.

Next, (assuming both cards pass the last test) I would test both PCI slots. Looking for the same thing as before.

Next, (assuming the motherboard passes the last test) I would ensure that they are the same card. Sometimes people get a 2gb & a 4gb and don't know it and this sort of thing happens.

The cards have to be Identical architecturally to run sli... make sure they are.

other than that, I would start looking at playing "swap the video cards" with a friends rig if possible to see if it's the cards or the motherboard.

Added: If you cant tell if the cards are different or not and the are recognized by windows correctly, use GPUz to see if any differences exist. Open it twice like i've done here and select different cards in each window... and compare.



GL

~MG~


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> for the drive, it needs to be allocated, as it is raw. if it is the new one you are referring to
> for the SLI I would check the device manager to make sure they are both /all are showing . the info entered to obtain the necessary drivers is correct as well I assume. at that point I would do the trail and error run a 3d mark or something and get a numbered result, then remove or add a card and rerun the test is the numbers jiving, I am not that familiar with Nvidia, so waiting on a better reply maybe your best solution


Allocated? ***, i'll figure that out. In the devices manager, both the driver and 2 cards are shown. I jump on Payday 2 and get 135 fps (maxed settings) and am still trying to install BF4. I'm at work so i'll ahve to try stuff in like 8 hours when i get back home. But i have no clue how to get this thing working. It was fine on my Asus MOBO. but this gigabyte is causing hell with this SLI issue!!


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> Allocated? ***, i'll figure that out. In the devices manager, both the driver and 2 cards are shown. I jump on Payday 2 and get 135 fps (maxed settings) and am still trying to install BF4. I'm at work so i'll ahve to try stuff in like 8 hours when i get back home. But i have no clue how to get this thing working. It was fine on my Asus MOBO. but this gigabyte is causing hell with this SLI issue!!


Just from what you said (assuming you have used the current cards you are trying to sli on another motherboard and they worked) I would be RMA'ing the motherboard.


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Just from what you said (assuming you have used the current cards you are trying to sli on another motherboard and they worked) I would be RMA'ing the motherboard.


Just sent an inquirey to tech support. This is upsetting. I like Gigabyte. I LOVED asus, until my chip wouldn't work. Power supply considered i can use either the corsair HX850 or a 1000W Rosewil bronze psu. both should be more than sufficient.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> have you updated the driver with both card installed?
> 
> If you have, use driver cleaner and clear out the nvidia components in safe mode and try again.
> 
> 
> 
> So, i reset my bios to "optimized defaults", and then *shock & awe* my SSD came in and i reinstalled windows on it. Thus reinstalling all the drivers, both cards were in, without the SLI bridge when i installed the drivers. CLEAN!
> Wait for it.......
> NO ******* SLI
> 
> Any ideas? any kind of BIOS settings i might switch around? I'm more new than anythying (still figuring out how to get my HDD to show up in windows) and can use the help. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

please put your rig in rigbuilder, i had to do alotta digging to remember your rig ( SEE MY SIG )

there was a setting i have had to disable and re enable to make it work ( CFX ) on my ud7 but tbh idr what it is some weird one that shouldnt mess with it, one of the last pages on the right, if i could see a screen i could tell you what it was, ill look it up later

one EASY fix you have not tried ( that i remember ) is a new sli bridge

have you used a second one ( meaning a different one )


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please put your rig in rigbuilder, i had to do alotta digging to remember your rig ( SEE MY SIG )
> 
> there was a setting i have had to disable and re enable to make it work ( CFX ) on my ud7 but tbh idr what it is some weird one that shouldnt mess with it, one of the last pages on the right, if i could see a screen i could tell you what it was, ill look it up later
> 
> one EASY fix you have not tried ( that i remember ) is a new sli bridge
> 
> have you used a second one ( meaning a different one )


Ok, Upon further review, i took eveything out, and reconnected. I put the HDD and SDD in SATA's next to eachother, renamed them finally so they both are recognized. I put the GPU's in the proper slots, so now my SLI is working. Added 1 turbulance fan and now everything is fine. Thanks for the help. I also put my rig in, for future fun. lol, so noob and so much help thank you so much. I'll pay it forward when i get the opportunity!


----------



## M3TAl

So what actually got it working? What do you mean by proper slots?


----------



## SimpleJack

The 2nd card was in PCIX_4 as opposed to PCI16_2. Old mobo SLI link, Asus actually.


----------



## mus1mus

so that means one card should be at X16 and the other at X4?


----------



## simsim44

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> So what actually got it working? What do you mean by proper slots?


Right....

Glad you got it fingered out SimpleJack.


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> so that means one card should be at X16 and the other at X4?


that's the entire issues. I was working off of a visual burned in my brain from my ASUS mobo. I mistakenly put one card in X16_1 and X4_1. I now have them properly seated in X16_! & X16_2. Got the CPU stable and beautiful at 4.997GHz can't push it any further lol depressing, but oh well. I don't know enough about OC to go more than BUS (204) Multi (24.5) and NB (2400).

The cards are practically touching eachother, but i added a fan to help move air over the cards and it seems to keep temps nice and low around 62c max while playing bf4 on ultra while getting 60-80fps depending on map etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> Right....
> 
> Glad you got it fingered out SimpleJack.


haha, yeah practically took the finger off of my glove when i was pulling the cards lol thank you for your help though, seriously so much appreciation!


----------



## gringott

I have a GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 3 and I am wondering what the "debug led" should be displaying after boot in normal operation?

Thanks


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gringott*
> 
> I have a GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 3 and I am wondering what the "debug led" should be displaying after boot in normal operation?
> 
> Thanks


"AA"


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> that's the entire issues. I was working off of a visual burned in my brain from my ASUS mobo. I mistakenly put one card in X16_1 and X4_1. I now have them properly seated in X16_! & X16_2. Got the CPU stable and beautiful at 4.997GHz can't push it any further lol depressing, but oh well. I don't know enough about OC to go more than BUS (204) Multi (24.5) and NB (2400).
> 
> The cards are practically touching eachother, but i added a fan to help move air over the cards and it seems to keep temps nice and low around 62c max while playing bf4 on ultra while getting 60-80fps depending on map etc.
> haha, yeah practically took the finger off of my glove when i was pulling the cards lol thank you for your help though, seriously so much appreciation!


Can you verify if SLI will work if the monitor is plugged into the card installed at PCIe X16_1 ?

For some reason, I can't enable SLI if I use the card installed as mentioned for my monitor.

Have to use the one on PCIe X16_2..

nuts!!!


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Can you verify if SLI will work if the monitor is plugged into the card installed at PCIe X16_1 ?
> 
> For some reason, I can't enable SLI if I use the card installed as mentioned for my monitor.
> 
> Have to use the one on PCIe X16_2..
> 
> nuts!!!


So once installed properly, i have everything plugged into the card in PCIE16_1

are both cards same manufacturer and same bios etc?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> So once installed properly, i have everything plugged into the card in PCIE16_1
> 
> are both cards same manufacturer and same bios etc?


Nope.

Thing is, I got them working at SLI..









BTW,

Decided to lap my 8320 and my Silver Arrow.

And was greeted by these.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




High edges for the CPU

And higher edges + center contour along the heatpipes.



Can only hope for better it seems.


----------



## simsim44

How many ten thousands do you think it was off?


----------



## ebduncan

Not sure of the actual measurements, but my 8320 was the same. High edges and slightly concave everywhere besides the where the core is.

I kept lapping till the cpu was a solid copper though. Took it to 2500 grit, and then used some polishing compound to buff it to a perfect mirror.

Dropped my full load temps by 5-7c


----------



## mus1mus

Lets just say
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simsim44*
> 
> How many ten thousands do you think it was off?


Huge enough to be ignored.

Thing is, the CPU and the cooler were mounted off due to those high edges and lumps.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Not sure of the actual measurements, but my 8320 was the same. High edges and slightly concave everywhere besides the where the core is.
> 
> I kept lapping till the cpu was a solid copper though. Took it to 2500 grit, and then used some polishing compound to buff it to a perfect mirror.
> 
> Dropped my full load temps by 5-7c


5-7C with what cooler? Or waterblock? Was the cooler or block lapped too? 5-7C is pretty tempting. Most of the lap jobs I've seen in the last 2 years people say around a 2-3C improvement.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 5-7C with what cooler? Or waterblock? Was the cooler or block lapped too? 5-7C is pretty tempting. Most of the lap jobs I've seen in the last 2 years people say around a 2-3C improvement.


Yes if not more

Before
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ebduncan/media/computer 2013/BeforeCPULap_zps7fdf4274.png.html

After


this was awhile back, but temp 2 is cpu. Take note of the ambient temp in temp 1, 2c difference. Its a water block, I lapped both the cpu and the water block. I would retest with the new setup, but would need a different cpu to show the results.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 5-7C with what cooler? Or waterblock? Was the cooler or block lapped too? 5-7C is pretty tempting. Most of the lap jobs I've seen in the last 2 years people say around a 2-3C improvement.


That is dependent on each set-up.

On mine for example, pre-lap, I can't go further than 1. 488 Volts as I'm already hitting the 70 degrees core wall.
After lap, I have shoot up to 1.520 Volts on my core without hitting 70 on the cores.

That is due to my CPU being concave. And my cooler being with high edges and slightly elevated center contour.

If you have a flat cooler, and a concave CPU, the issue will be less and the temp savings will be less.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Yes if not more
> 
> Before
> http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ebduncan/media/computer 2013/BeforeCPULap_zps7fdf4274.png.html
> 
> After
> 
> 
> this was awhile back, but temp 2 is cpu.


Good temps!!!


----------



## hurricane28

Nice result









So if i come correct its worthy to lap my CPU, 5-7c drop in temps under load is huge if you ask me.

Sadly we cannot remove the IHS since its soldered


----------



## mus1mus

There's really no need to remove the IHS. Soldered IHS were very closed to being bare-die compared to Intel's IHS piece of snot TIM.









Also note that the gains seems very negligible if you already have a cool system. So comparing the temps clock to clock and voltage to voltage might not indicate the real headroom gains.

One example is the temp i got at 4.5 GHz 1.38+ Core V.

Before lapping, I was bordering at high 40s but under 50. (Being my fail-safe profile)
After lap, I didn't get lower than 45 at same settings. (Again, being my fail-safe....







)

But the real gain was hiding somewhere.


----------



## M3TAl

Maybe one day I'll lap a CPU, been in the back of my mind past 2+ years. Maybe my old x4 955 just for the heck of it. Not sure it's worth it on this 8350 and EK Supremacy block.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> There's really no need to remove the IHS. Soldered IHS were very closed to being bare-die compared to Intel's IHS piece of snot TIM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also note that the gains seems very negligible if you already have a cool system. So comparing the temps clock to clock and voltage to voltage might not indicate the real headroom gains.
> 
> One example is the temp i got at 4.5 GHz 1.38+ Core V.
> 
> Before lapping, I was bordering at high 40s but under 50. (Being my fail-safe profile)
> After lap, I didn't get lower than 45 at same settings. (Again, being my fail-safe....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> But the real gain was hiding somewhere.


Okay, i was curious because like you said Intel has some very cheap applied IHS i seen on the net and there are some vids of it too.

But honestly, i am curious about my temps, i will look at it tomorrow and see how my IHS on the CPU is, if its bad i going to lap it.

Also the CPU block of my h100i looks like it could use a little touch up so if i can get some good sanding paper i will lap it.


----------



## mus1mus

One quick way to check if the mating for the CPU and cooler is by pressing while twisting the cooler into the CPU and see if you have some scratches on either of them..

Scratches will indicate those high edges if they are apparent.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> One quick way to check if the mating for the CPU and cooler is by pressing while twisting the cooler into the CPU and see if you have some scratches on either of them..
> 
> Scratches will indicate those high edges if they are apparent.


or... use a razor and your eye ..... not scratch everything...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or... use a razor and your eye ..... not scratch everything...


Okay that was a bit off actually..

But marks on the cooler is an indication..


----------



## hurricane28

Yep, thnx for the input









I know how to look if something is flat, I am going to use an straightedge because a razor is in my opinion not very accurate to determine if is something flat or not.

You could use an razor and shine a lite on the other side to see where its not flat but i feel an straightedge is more accurate.


----------



## just_ilano

hi all,
anybody know, how to set pci-e bus manually on 990fxa-ud3 rev.4? i find in bios, but no option related with pcie
i want to set my pci-e bus because my system read my vga run at 1.1

thanks


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_ilano*
> 
> hi all,
> anybody know, how to set pci-e bus manually on 990fxa-ud3 rev.4? i find in bios, but no option related with pcie
> i want to set my pci-e bus because my system read my vga run at 1.1
> 
> thanks


Try to run a game or the ? mark on GPU-Z to test wether it will run at PCIe2.0 X16.


----------



## just_ilano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Try to run a game or the ? mark on GPU-Z to test wether it will run at PCIe2.0 X16.


i try gaming and mining,
when mining i got low hash rate, and when gaming i'm facing lag.
and GPUZ still read my vga at PCIe2.0 x16 1.1


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_ilano*
> 
> i try gaming and mining,
> when mining i got low hash rate, and when gaming i'm facing lag.
> and GPUZ still read my vga at PCIe2.0 x16 1.1


how many cards do you run?

Placing it to the right slot will help.

or try another slot.. Make sure it's on X16 slots.

or update your driver.


----------



## just_ilano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> how many cards do you run?
> 
> Placing it to the right slot will help.
> 
> or try another slot.. Make sure it's on X16 slots.
> 
> or update your driver.


i ran 3 cards
i was try all slot (x16 and x4 also) and same result
which driver? vga driver? i use latest driver


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_ilano*
> 
> i ran 3 cards
> i was try all slot (x16 and x4 also) and same result
> which driver? vga driver? i use latest driver


Okay got what you are trying.

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#ov

staes that it supports up to 2-way crossfire/sli.

that means only 2 cards can run at X16.

im not sure if that really is the case though since you are mining and doesn't really need to use SLI or Crossfire at all to do so.

But it did happen to me. My solution is to install one card at a time.

Just one card at each slot at once. Reboot to windows to make sure the drivers get installed properly and working at PCIe 2.0.

That is to direct the drivers to each slot being used.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_ilano*
> 
> i try gaming and mining,
> when mining i got low hash rate, and when gaming i'm facing lag.
> and GPUZ still read my vga at PCIe2.0 x16 1.1


what you expect it to read? the amd gigabyte boards only support up to x16 pci 2.0

pci-e bandwidth doesn't effect mining AT ALL you will still get the same hash rates in a 1x slot.


----------



## just_ilano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Okay got what you are trying.
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#ov
> 
> staes that it supports up to 2-way crossfire/sli.
> 
> that means only 2 cards can run at X16.
> 
> im not sure if that really is the case though since you are mining and doesn't really need to use SLI or Crossfire at all to do so.
> 
> But it did happen to me. My solution is to install one card at a time.
> 
> Just one card at each slot at once. Reboot to windows to make sure the drivers get installed properly and working at PCIe 2.0.
> 
> That is to direct the drivers to each slot being used.


okay, i'll try this one
thanks mus1mus









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> what you expect it to read? the amd gigabyte boards only support up to x16 pci 2.0
> 
> pci-e bandwidth doesn't effect mining AT ALL you will still get the same hash rates in a 1x slot.


i'm expect gpuz read pcie 2.0 x16 2.0 / pcie2.0 x4 2.0 not 1.1 at the end.


----------



## reeven

eroare3a.jpg 306k .jpg file


eroare3b.jpg 368k .jpg file


eroare4a.jpg 295k .jpg file


I have problems with USB3.0 ( VIA VL805) on UD3 rev4. Sometimes ALL usb3.0 dissapear from device manager.
Fix for me is to shutdown PC and start it again, now usb3.0 appear. If i restart the PC usb3.0 will not appear.
If i plug my WD passport slim 1tb/2tb into usb3.0, i get bluescreens.
If i plug in usb 3.0 my few dvb-c sticks tuners into it, after 1-2 days will dissapear .

If i use usb2.0( from amd southbridge) all are ok.
I talk to Gigibyte, WD,VIA...in vain.All three does not know anything. It give me generic fix, like pls update your bios( but in my mail i tell them i have latest bios). etc... incompetence.

I have win7 64, latest bios motherboard update, latest wd hdd update, latest win7 updates, latest drivers update( including VIA VL805 driver from VIA), still problems are there.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_ilano*
> 
> okay, i'll try this one
> thanks mus1mus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm expect gpuz read pcie 2.0 x16 2.0 / pcie2.0 x4 2.0 not 1.1 at the end.


Amd scales the pci-e bus when not under load. It changes, try running a benchmark and look it then..

for example my system runs at x1 1.1 until its under load.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_ilano*
> 
> okay, i'll try this one
> thanks mus1mus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i'm expect gpuz read pcie 2.0 x16 2.0 / pcie2.0 x4 2.0 not 1.1 at the end.


----------



## Red1776

GPUZ @ idle lowers them to 1.1 until under load. it has a built in render test that will show you what the actual PCIe version is when under load.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GPUZ @ idle lowers them to 1.1 until under load. it has a built in render test that will show you what the actual PCIe version is when under load.


Actually experienced this one guys. Just like SLI to work, cards should be installed one by one to the specific slots, booted to windows for the driver installation. Shutting down, remove the card installed and install another one to another slot, boot into Windows again.







Not one after the other..

On one occasion, I even got my card running at PCIEe 2.0 X8 though installed on the X16 slot. That could be a Windows or Driver issue as well.









He also said, his framerates were choppy when gaming.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Actually experienced this one guys. Just like SLI to work, cards should be installed one by one to the specific slots, booted to windows for the driver installation. Shutting down, remove the card installed and install another one to another slot, boot into Windows again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not one after the other..
> 
> On one occasion, I even got my card running at PCIEe 2.0 X8 though installed on the X16 slot. That could be a Windows or Driver issue as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He also said, his framerates were choppy when gaming.


I've never come across that on rev 1.0, rev 1.1, rev 3.0, or my rev 4.0.

Have used sli 275's, 285's my 660's and 7950's in X.

All of them however have jumped PCI-e speed and Ver. to limit power...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I've never come across that on rev 1.0, rev 1.1, rev 3.0, or my rev 4.0.
> 
> Have used sli 275's, 285's my 660's and 7950's in X.
> 
> All of them however have jumped PCI-e speed and Ver. to limit power...


My scenario actually lowered my framerates by significantly more than half.

So issues like these need more heads. Though occurs just like a blue moon, should be helpful for some when happens









Edit:

IIRC, the issue on mine happened when I add in another card with an old existing OS. And drivers.


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Actually experienced this one guys. Just like SLI to work, cards should be installed one by one to the specific slots, booted to windows for the driver installation. Shutting down, remove the card installed and install another one to another slot, boot into Windows again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not one after the other..
> 
> On one occasion, I even got my card running at PCIEe 2.0 X8 though installed on the X16 slot. That could be a Windows or Driver issue as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He also said, his framerates were choppy when gaming.


I came across this thread from another one in the AMD CPU section,and can't help but notice I've been having the same issue,except I'm only using a single card.
Is this a problem with GPU compatibility,or a Windows driver error,defective chipset on the motherboard?
The most I'm getting out of my GTX 770 is PCI-E X16 @ PCI-E X8 1.1. I've been getting the occasional stuttering in BF4,and now I know why.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavy MG*
> 
> I came across this thread from another one in the AMD CPU section,and can't help but notice I've been having the same issue,except I'm only using a single card.
> Is this a problem with GPU compatibility,or a Windows driver error,defective chipset on the motherboard?
> The most I'm getting out of my GTX 770 is PCI-E X16 @ PCI-E X8 1.1. I've been getting the occasional stuttering in BF4,and now I know why.


You can first try to validate if your card runs at PCIe 2.0 X 16 by clucking the question (?) Mark sign on GPUZ. Or open you game, pause and look at GPUZ.

The way I found my solutions vary. But the suspects were written above.

Drivers (someone mentioned driver cleaners and updating them to the latest a few posts back)
OS corruption on GPU driver ??
PCIe slot

And yeah, nvidia control panel tweaks does that as well if misconfigured.


----------



## just_ilano

finally all issue clear








i try mus1mus way








i clean install my windows and install nvidia driver one by one each card
and finally, with same setting all game no lagging and mining get max hash









thanks for this solution


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just_ilano*
> 
> finally all issue clear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i try mus1mus way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i clean install my windows and install nvidia driver one by one each card
> and finally, with same setting all game no lagging and mining get max hash
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for this solution


Happy for ya fella!

On a side note, I'm thinking my mobo or my chip died ??


----------



## M3TAl

Pop? Smoke? Burn? Or just won't turn on?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Pop? Smoke? Burn? Or just won't turn on?


nothing..

Actually ripping my rig apart to check..

Did some cleaning yesterday and pull it out apart. Put them back together and booted fine..

Stress with Aida to see everything's OK.

Aida froze, not booting back no more..


----------



## M3TAl

First thing to check would be VRM/mosfets and try another power supply. A CPU doesn't just die like that... Unless the board went out and took the CPU with it (happened to my buddy and his 970A-UD3).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> First thing to check would be VRM/mosfets and try another power supply. A CPU doesn't just die like that... Unless the board went out and took the CPU with it (happened to my buddy and his 970A-UD3).


Nothing unusual on the VRMs.. I actually drop my oc from 4.7 to 4.5 on stock voltages when it happen..

I haven't tried powering it back as I did some more cleaning and drying the alcohol ATM..


----------



## Heavy MG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You can first try to validate if your card runs at PCIe 2.0 X 16 by clucking the question (?) Mark sign on GPUZ. Or open you game, pause and look at GPUZ.
> 
> The way I found my solutions vary. But the suspects were written above.
> 
> Drivers (someone mentioned driver cleaners and updating them to the latest a few posts back)
> OS corruption on GPU driver ??
> PCIe slot
> 
> And yeah, nvidia control panel tweaks does that as well if misconfigured.


I didn't know about the (?) sign for the render test window,thanks.








I reseated the card,and it's back to PCI-E 2.0,my UD3 must have a really tight X16 slot. I used the (?) render test,and opened a game to confirm. My FPS did go up a bit in BF4,however it's much more smooth.


----------



## mus1mus

Hey guys, can someone tell me what are the symptoms of a dead CPU or mobo?

The thing just went out of me after putting the pieces together off some cleaning.

Booted just fine, lowered my clocks for a warm up run. Screen froze, not booting back..

Any thoughts?

I tried putting the components back again.

Powered it up, no boot, no beeps, fans spinning, cooler is warming up..

Is it the mobo or the CPU? Hopefully not both


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hey guys, can someone tell me what are the symptoms of a dead CPU or mobo?
> 
> The thing just went out of me after putting the pieces together off some cleaning.
> 
> Booted just fine, lowered my clocks for a warm up run. Screen froze, not booting back..
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> I tried putting the components back again.
> 
> Powered it up, no boot, no beeps, fans spinning, cooler is warming up..
> 
> Is it the mobo or the CPU? Hopefully not both


Sorry to hear that man,

It sounds like an PSU issue there, what did you do more than just pull it all out?

Maybe some settings were not correct when you set everything back? OR it can be your GPU.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hey guys, can someone tell me what are the symptoms of a dead CPU or mobo?
> 
> The thing just went out of me after putting the pieces together off some cleaning.
> 
> Booted just fine, lowered my clocks for a warm up run. Screen froze, not booting back..
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> I tried putting the components back again.
> 
> Powered it up, no boot, no beeps, fans spinning, cooler is warming up..
> 
> Is it the mobo or the CPU? Hopefully not both


Gpu or Memory.

If the fans and the cooler is warming up, your board is probably fine. You will only have beeps if you have a case speaker connected to the motherboard. I would remove all sticks of ram and test one by one. If you have a old gpu laying around throw that in there to see if it posts then.

It could be the cpu, but the only time i had a dead cpu it didn't heat up at all. It wouldn't post, but the fans would spin.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Sorry to hear that man,
> 
> It sounds like an PSU issue there, what did you do more than just pull it all out?
> 
> Maybe some settings were not correct when you set everything back? OR it can be your GPU.


Tried another GPU, still nothing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Gpu or Memory.
> 
> If the fans and the cooler is warming up, your board is probably fine. You will only have beeps if you have a case speaker connected to the motherboard. I would remove all sticks of ram and test one by one. If you have a old gpu laying around throw that in there to see if it posts then.
> 
> It could be the cpu, but the only time i had a dead cpu it didn't heat up at all. It wouldn't post, but the fans would spin.


No beeps.

I'm really thinking it could be the mobo. Ram sticks were already tried one by one.

Hoping it's only the mobo.

Weird coz there's nothing unusual if you look at it. Was thinking some metallic dirt caused the issue but there's no signs of burning nor arcing on the traces.


----------



## ebduncan

did you try putting the gpu in a different pci-e slot?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> did you try putting the gpu in a different pci-e slot?


Yup did that as well..

Pretty much the only things I haven't done yet were installing the CPU to another mobo, and testing another PSU.. All else that i have have already been tried.

On a side note, I'll go pick one of the Kittys.









And yeah, how hot does your backplate go. I have installed the backplate before it died on me and the thing just absorbs a lot of the VRM heat.

Used some blu-tack as electrical insulator and the heat transfer was superb! Actually made me think to put a proper heatsink at the back of the VRMs before it died.


----------



## ebduncan

that sucker just about burns your hand haha. I used a thermal pad 0.5mm thick so heat transfer is pretty good. It certain could benefit from a heatsink attached to the back plate.

I've thought about watercooling the VRM's a lot lately. I kinda wanted AMD to release a steamroller core FX and new motherboard chipset, but seems that is not going to happen. Since those plans were scraped I may just purchase the vrm block and hang on to this system for the forseeable future.

I could see myself switching to haswell-e though.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> that sucker just about burns your hand haha. I used a thermal pad 0.5mm thick so heat transfer is pretty good. It certain could benefit from a heatsink attached to the back plate.
> 
> I've thought about watercooling the VRM's a lot lately. I kinda wanted AMD to release a steamroller core FX and new motherboard chipset, but seems that is not going to happen. Since those plans were scraped I may just purchase the vrm block and hang on to this system for the forseeable future.
> 
> I could see myself switching to haswell-e though.


Intel Extremes is the only way to go to coming from an eight core AMD IMO. Just too pricey for me.









But I'm still hesitant with Haswell's OC'ing capabilities. Pretty much more of a lottery than AMD FX from what I have heard.

I remember before all this trouble came to my set-up that my heatpiped heatsink barely heats up my VRMs on the PCB side. I could still stand touching it for a couple of minutes running at 1.512 volts. But since this happened, urrgh.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Intel Extremes is the only way to go to coming from an eight core AMD IMO. Just too pricey for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I'm still hesitant with Haswell's OC'ing capabilities. Pretty much more of a lottery than AMD FX from what I have heard.
> 
> I remember before all this trouble came to my set-up that my heatpiped heatsink barely heats up my VRMs on the PCB side. I could still stand touching it for a couple of minutes running at 1.512 volts. But since this happened, urrgh.


its likely because your motherboard was warped and the vrm heatsink was no longer making good contact with the Vrms.

This is why I made a back plate for mine, it fixes the board warp-age problem.

a 4770k is a solid upgrade from a 8350. But yes the only true upgrade are the extremes, from a muticore perspective anyways. Single core speed is vastly better on the Intel platforms. I will likely be getting a Haswell-E when they come out. 8 cores 16 threads, great single core, soldered instead of Tim. I might have to drop over 1000$ usd but it will be fast.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> its likely because your motherboard was warped and the vrm heatsink was no longer making good contact with the Vrms.
> 
> This is why I made a back plate for mine, it fixes the board warp-age problem.


I was still damn flat up to now.. T'was due to these issues you guys reported that I was able to do some preemptive jobs to care for that heating VRM.

Some Heating marks on the PCB but nowhere brown. More of TIM stains. I'll take some pics when I get home later.

Still couldn't think what could have caused it. And still wondering if the chip was alright!!!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I was still damn flat up to now.. T'was due to these issues you guys reported that I was able to do some preemptive jobs to care for that heating VRM.
> 
> Some Heating marks on the PCB but nowhere brown. More of TIM stains. I'll take some pics when I get home later.
> 
> Still couldn't think what could have caused it. And still wondering if the chip was alright!!!


Almost all of the ud3 motherboards are warped in the vrm area. On rev 4.0 I think they added a back plate to address these issues. I personally think your cpu is fine. If anything your motherboard may have died. Although it is possible if the motherboard died, it took the cpu with it.

The Amd processors are stout, unlike their intel counter parts which have problems with degradation and such. As long as they receive proper cooling they are darn near indestructible.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Almost all of the ud3 motherboards are warped in the vrm area. On rev 4.0 I think they added a back plate to address these issues. I personally think your cpu is fine. If anything your motherboard may have died. Although it is possible if the motherboard died, it took the cpu with it.
> 
> The Amd processors are stout, unlike their intel counter parts which have problems with degradation and such. As long as they receive proper cooling they are darn near indestructible.


You bet. I was running mad with it and play continuous CineBench testing it that skyrockets my temp up to 90 a handful of time and the CPU never went down on it's previous scores. That's resilience!!

The board is still flat overall with slightly concave IO area. Yes, it's near the VRM but it's also due to the wait these IO ports have. That could only be visible if take a look at it straight along the edge though.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> that sucker just about burns your hand haha. I used a thermal pad 0.5mm thick so heat transfer is pretty good. It certain could benefit from a heatsink attached to the back plate.
> 
> I've thought about watercooling the VRM's a lot lately. I kinda wanted AMD to release a steamroller core FX and new motherboard chipset, but seems that is not going to happen. Since those plans were scraped I may just purchase the vrm block and hang on to this system for the forseeable future.
> 
> I could see myself switching to haswell-e though.


Which mosfet blocks are you looking at? Only two that are still made that I know of which fit the 1.0/1.1/1.2/3.0 boards is the Enzotech WMST-88 and one of the universal Koolance blocks. I almost got the Enzotech but happened to get one of the very last EK AMD kits on massive clearance. Clear plexi too, goes perfect with this clean plexi Supremacy block


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Which mosfet blocks are you looking at? Only two that are still made that I know of which fit the 1.0/1.1/1.2/3.0 boards is the Enzotech WMST-88 and one of the universal Koolance blocks. I almost got the Enzotech but happened to get one of the very last EK AMD kits on massive clearance. Clear plexi too, goes perfect with this clean plexi Supremacy block


Koolance block, or a used AMD Ek product.


----------



## M3TAl

I'll be interested how it performs if you get it. Though we have no sensor for it. I use a thermal probe on the back of the board.

Using Fujipoly on stock heatsink with a blower fan was actually better temps than the EK block but ton of noise... I run all my fans at 800 RPM and the VRM temps are only ~5C worse than blasting that fan right at the heatsink.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'll be interested how it performs if you get it. Though we have no sensor for it. I use a thermal probe on the back of the board.
> 
> Using Fujipoly on stock heatsink with a blower fan was actually better temps than the EK block but ton of noise... I run all my fans at 800 RPM and the VRM temps are only ~5C worse than blasting that fan right at the heatsink.


I will let you know If I do decide to water block them. I have a thermal probe i can monitor the PCB temp by the VRM's.

Currently I made a nice thick aluminum back plate for the vrms and have a Vantec 80mm silent fan blowing on them.

I haven't decided if i am going to spend anymore money on this computer though, If i spend money it will likely be in the form of upgrading the cpu/mobo. Waterblocking the vrms isn't going to give me any speed bonuses, and will not allow me to overclock further, so kinda seems like wasted money. Right now the Vrm's get hot but the temperatures are acceptable.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I will let you know If I do decide to water block them. I have a thermal probe i can monitor the PCB temp by the VRM's.
> 
> Currently I made a nice thick aluminum back plate for the vrms and have a Vantec 80mm silent fan blowing on them.
> 
> I haven't decided if i am going to spend anymore money on this computer though, If i spend money it will likely be in the form of upgrading the cpu/mobo. Waterblocking the vrms isn't going to give me any speed bonuses, and will not allow me to overclock further, so kinda seems like wasted money. Right now the Vrm's get hot but the temperatures are acceptable.


The most economical way to improve the VRM temp would be slapping in a piece of a junk aluminum heatsink from an old computer bolted into the backplate you have. Will add rigidness on the backplate as well. That is if you can fit it in the back of your motherboard tray and the case cover.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'll be interested how it performs if you get it. Though we have no sensor for it. I use a thermal probe on the back of the board.
> 
> Using Fujipoly on stock heatsink with a blower fan was actually better temps than the EK block but ton of noise... I run all my fans at 800 RPM and the VRM temps are only ~5C worse than blasting that fan right at the heatsink.


Just confirmed what I thought about the VRM sensors. It seems there's really none.. My hands were not temp probes but I can tell which temp will be acceptable in my point of view.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> The most economical way to improve the VRM temp would be slapping in a piece of a junk aluminum heatsink from an old computer bolted into the backplate you have. Will add rigidness on the backplate as well. That is if you can fit it in the back of your motherboard tray and the case cover.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just confirmed what I thought about the VRM sensors. It seems there's really none.. My hands were not temp probes but I can tell which temp will be acceptable in my point of view.


the VRMs have a temperature sensor. It will shut down your computer automatically if it reaches critical levels. It is not monitored by most if not all temperature monitoring software. I'm sure someone could add it if they really wanted to.

The black plate I made is rigid. It's 1/4" thick aluminum. Adding a heatsink to the back plate would improve cooling of the vrms, but its not really needed even in my setuyp. (5ghz 8320 with 1.55 volts) Sure they could run cooler, but as long as it doesn't go into thermal shut down is fine by me.


----------



## M3TAl

The Rev. 4.0 UD3 has two sensors. I'm not sure about VRM protection on 1.0/1.1/1.2 however.. I have a 1.1 970A-UD3 too, identical in VRM design to the 990FXA. My friend also had the 1.1 970A-UD3. He blew the VRM on it running OCCT at a high OC. There was no shutdown or throttling at all.

There have been other cases around the web of blown VRM on UD3's like this one http://www.overclock.net/t/1376059/gigabyte-990fx-vrm-fried-warranty-need-advice or this one http://www.brightsideofnews.com/news/2012/12/31/gigabyte-ends-the-year-with-a-bang-kills-amd-fx-8350-cpu.aspx.

Don't think they added protection until rev. 3.0 and 4.0.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The Rev. 4.0 UD3 has two sensors. I'm not sure about VRM protection on 1.0/1.1/1.2 however.. I have a 1.1 970A-UD3 too, identical in VRM design to the 990FXA. My friend also had the 1.1 970A-UD3. He blew the VRM on it running OCCT at a high OC. There was no shutdown or throttling at all.
> 
> There have been other cases around the web of blown VRM on UD3's like this one http://www.overclock.net/t/1376059/gigabyte-990fx-vrm-fried-warranty-need-advice or this one http://www.brightsideofnews.com/news/2012/12/31/gigabyte-ends-the-year-with-a-bang-kills-amd-fx-8350-cpu.aspx.
> 
> Don't think they added protection until rev. 3.0 and 4.0.


My 1.0 rev will automatically reboot if the VRM temp goes over 100c. It might be a bios revision thing. I could pass stress tests and such but once i played a game such as bf4, or crysis 3 it would be a problem. I added a back plate to the VRM's and well no longer reboots under my overclock settings.

So I believe its a bios revision they added VRM protection. I could be wrong though.


----------



## M3TAl

I know I've had the thermal probe on the back of the board where the mosfets are hit 98C before (doing some high OC/voltage bench/stress) so who knows what the actual mosfet temps were. Never had a shutdown or throttle either. Mine's a 1.1 on F9 BIOS.

Weird that your gaming temps are higher. Something like IBT/P95/OCCT always runs significantly hotter than games for me. Like BF4 it will be around 45C with 28C ambient at 4.95GHz The only time it gets significantly higher is loading maps, it will jump to 55-60C for about 1 second during map loads. A stress test will be anywhere from 55-60C+ depending on which test it is.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I know I've had the thermal probe on the back of the board where the mosfets are hit 98C before (doing some high OC/voltage bench/stress) so who knows what the actual mosfet temps were. Never had a shutdown or throttle either. Mine's a 1.1 on F9 BIOS.
> 
> Weird that your gaming temps are higher. Something like IBT/P95/OCCT always runs significantly hotter than games for me. Like BF4 it will be around 45C with 28C ambient at 4.95GHz The only time it gets significantly higher is loading maps, it will jump to 55-60C for about 1 second during map loads. A stress test will be anywhere from 55-60C+ depending on which test it is.


Well its worth noting the rev 1.0 has different VRM structure than the 1.1+ boards have. IBT and P95 are mostly cpu stress tests. In those cases my CPU temps are higher, but not VRM temps. In gaming there is a larger load on the VRM due to the board having to provide power to the PCI-E slot, memory, and the CPU. In stressful games like I mentioned caused the VRM temps to be the highest.


----------



## reeven

in games vrm hit 90-95C on castlevania2, and 80C or so in gta. My board will not restart when vrm hit 100C, it keeps going strong. UD3 rev4. It's working at 100C on vrm for hours. When my nephew came at my house he play 5 hours and no problems. I saw 106C maximum temp.
And donk know why but when Norton NIS start scaning vrm temp goes to the moon, hitting 96C easy, in 2-3 minutes.

All these are with my passive Tuniq Tower, , with it started on low( 1000 rotation) vrm temp dropped 30 C at least.


----------



## Mega Man

I really would not push vrms that close to max Temp.

They only supply voltage to cpu and ram . And can cause other issues as well


----------



## DarkJoney

Hey, guys, I think we remember me, I am a guy with RAM trouble.
I came again to say big THANKS to us








I have installed RAM stick in 1st slot, how *Chargeit* told me, and after boot it's became as 1600 with out any BIOS configuration.








So, we are epic, I didn't know about this Gigabyte's feature.


----------



## danilon62

Hi there folks!

Can someone comfirm me if the VRM cooling issues in the 990FXA-UD3 mobo were corrected in the Rev 4.0?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danilon62*
> 
> Hi there folks!
> 
> Can someone comfirm me if the VRM cooling issues in the 990FXA-UD3 mobo were corrected in the Rev 4.0?


I believe they have been addressed but not by a huge amount.

And yes, even if they did, you'll still need active cooling for those components. FANS


----------



## danilon62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I believe they have been addressed but not by a huge amount.
> 
> And yes, even if they did, you'll still need active cooling for those components. FANS


lol really? thats so weird, how can they release a board like that? Gigabyte has always done a great job with its boards, I myself own the UD5 and it rocks

Btw you avatar is funny lol, inut(i)l means unusable in spanish.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danilon62*
> 
> lol really? thats so weird, how can they release a board like that? Gigabyte has always done a great job with its boards, I myself own the UD5 and it rocks


Well, take it this way, the crosshair, the saberkitty, the ud7, etc., they all need extra cooling to sustain these octacores running at high clocks. It won't be a problem if you run these chips stock.

Quote:


> Btw you avatar is funny lol, inut(i)l means unusable in spanish.


So does here.





















 LOL.

Quite a usual sight on

Shirts:





But yeah, refers to them fanboys as well..


----------



## SimpleJack

So anyone see anything that is worth helping boost these outrageous power hungry fx-9xxx chips? I've got mine up to 4.741 Ghz on my UD5 Rev. 4. (FX-9370, liquid cooled, 2 4gb sticks of patriot extreme 1600, SSD, 2x Gigabyte 760 rev 2.slow) Running Win 7 pro of course. Can't get it up to 5.0 stable and it's pissing me off. Asus boards are all i've ever used and i thought this was supposed to be more user friendly.....totally screwed that up lol


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> So anyone see anything that is worth helping boost these outrageous power hungry fx-9xxx chips? I've got mine up to 4.741 Ghz on my UD5 Rev. 4. (FX-9370, liquid cooled, 2 4gb sticks of patriot extreme 1600, SSD, 2x Gigabyte 760 rev 2.slow) Running Win 7 pro of course. Can't get it up to 5.0 stable and it's pissing me off. Asus boards are all i've ever used and i thought this was supposed to be more user friendly.....totally screwed that up lol


It's good to post the settings you use for your overclock.

1. Bios Screenies would be perfect so everyone can see your settings and comment on them.

2. Remember that there are dud chips. Not every single FX can overclock as high as others. But seeing you got a 9370, something must be not right on your tweakings.

3. There are also instance that a chip on a certain board won't OC further using just the multiplier. You need to experiment on that.

4. What specifically is the issue stopping your OC? Heat? No Boot? Freeze? Which could be better explained if you post your Bios screens here.


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It's good to post the settings you use for your overclock.
> 
> 1. Bios Screenies would be perfect so everyone can see your settings and comment on them.
> 
> 2. Remember that there are dud chips. Not every single FX can overclock as high as others. But seeing you got a 9370, something must be not right on your tweakings.
> 
> 3. There are also instance that a chip on a certain board won't OC further using just the multiplier. You need to experiment on that.
> 
> 4. What specifically is the issue stopping your OC? Heat? No Boot? Freeze? Which could be better explained if you post your Bios screens here.


Such a noob, sorry, I'll post BIOS screens when i get back home today.....how do i take multiple screenshots in 1 go, or should i just use my phone?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> Such a noob, sorry, I'll post BIOS screens when i get back home today.....how do i take multiple screenshots in 1 go, or should i just use my phone?


Inside the Bios, there's an option to do screenshot. That will automatically save the screenshot into your usb stick

Just make sure you format your USB stick to FAT32.
Insert your stick and capture screenshots.


----------



## danilon62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well, take it this way, the crosshair, the saberkitty, the ud7, etc., they all need extra cooling to sustain these octacores running at high clocks. It won't be a problem if you run these chips stock.
> So does here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL.
> 
> Quite a usual sight on
> 
> Shirts:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah, refers to them fanboys as well..


I know some people who should wear that T-shirt hahahaha

Your post killed me xDDDD


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *danilon62*
> 
> I know some people who should wear that T-shirt hahahaha
> 
> Your post killed me xDDDD


Lol..

???


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Inside the Bios, there's an option to do screenshot. That will automatically save the screenshot into your usb stick
> 
> Just make sure you format your USB stick to FAT32.
> Insert your stick and capture screenshots.


and this is what i see

140419055805.BMP 2304k .BMP file


140419055821.BMP 2304k .BMP file


140419055829.BMP 2304k .BMP file


140419055833.BMP 2304k .BMP file


140419055837.BMP 2304k .BMP file


140419055845.BMP 2304k .BMP file


140419055902.BMP 2304k .BMP file


140419055926.BMP 2304k .BMP file


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> and this is what i see


So your dead set on to 5GHz right?

First up, on your BIOS, Press F7 to go back to Optimized Defaults

M.I.T.\Advanced Frequency Settings
Leave all these at stock

M.I.T.\Advanced Frequency Settings\Advanced CPU Core Features
Disable;
C1E
Cool n Quiet
SVM
APM

HPC Enabled.

Reboot to BIOS

2. Go To MIT\Advanced Voltage Settings
CPU Vcore - +0.000
NB Core - +0.000
Vcore Loadline Calibration - set to HIGH or Ultra.
Set the others to match their Values indicated.

Reboot to BIOS

You will now be greeted by your stock VCORE. Which is dependent to your CPU.

Reboot to BIOS

Go to M.I.T.\Advanced Frequency Settings

Set your CPU CLOCK RATIO to 24 for 4.8 ( do it nice and slow )

Go To MIT\Advanced Voltage Settings

Set your CPU Vcore to +0.100 (Depending on how much it takes, you could PROBABLY boot into Windows.
Reboot.

****_Stress test with IBT AVX, observe your temps, and if you fail, Go To MIT\Advanced Voltage Settings again and add a couple clicks on the OFFSET for the VCore.
You Pass, Up the Clock Ratio a Click._

That's your starting point. Repeat the last _PART_ to establish your stability.

Remember, Do it Carefully

Note: A hint of NB Core will add Stability for higher clocks.
Leave the MEMORY option at Stock or XMP Values if present.


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So your dead set on to 5GHz right?
> 
> First up, on your BIOS, Press F7 to go back to Optimized Defaults
> 
> M.I.T.\Advanced Frequency Settings
> Leave all these at stock
> 
> M.I.T.\Advanced Frequency Settings\Advanced CPU Core Features
> Disable;
> C1E
> Cool n Quiet
> SVM
> APM
> 
> HPC Enabled.
> 
> Reboot to BIOS
> 
> 2. Go To MIT\Advanced Voltage Settings
> CPU Vcore - +0.000
> NB Core - +0.000
> Vcore Loadline Calibration - set to HIGH or Ultra.
> Set the others to match their Values indicated.
> 
> Reboot to BIOS
> 
> You will now be greeted by your stock VCORE. Which is dependent to your CPU.
> 
> Reboot to BIOS
> 
> Go to M.I.T.\Advanced Frequency Settings
> 
> Set your CPU CLOCK RATIO to 24 for 4.8 ( do it nice and slow )
> 
> Go To MIT\Advanced Voltage Settings
> 
> Set your CPU Vcore to +0.100 (Depending on how much it takes, you could PROBABLY boot into Windows.
> Reboot.
> 
> ****_Stress test with IBT AVX, observe your temps, and if you fail, Go To MIT\Advanced Voltage Settings again and add a couple clicks on the OFFSET for the VCore.
> You Pass, Up the Clock Ratio a Click._
> 
> That's your starting point. Repeat the last _PART_ to establish your stability.
> 
> Remember, Do it Carefully


Super helpful!! Will post again once stable with high resource eating games haha! thanks so much you're amazingly helpful!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> and this is what i see
> 
> 
> 
> So your dead set on to 5GHz right?
> 
> First up, on your BIOS, Press F7 to go back to Optimized Defaults
> 
> M.I.T.\Advanced Frequency Settings
> Leave all these at stock
> 
> M.I.T.\Advanced Frequency Settings\Advanced CPU Core Features
> Disable;
> C1E
> Cool n Quiet
> SVM
> APM
> 
> HPC Enabled.
> 
> Reboot to BIOS
> 
> 2. Go To MIT\Advanced Voltage Settings
> CPU Vcore - +0.000
> NB Core - +0.000
> Vcore Loadline Calibration - set to HIGH or Ultra.
> Set the others to match their Values indicated.
> 
> Reboot to BIOS
> 
> You will now be greeted by your stock VCORE. Which is dependent to your CPU.
> 
> Reboot to BIOS
> 
> Go to M.I.T.\Advanced Frequency Settings
> 
> Set your CPU CLOCK RATIO to 24 for 4.8 ( do it nice and slow )
> 
> Go To MIT\Advanced Voltage Settings
> 
> Set your CPU Vcore to +0.100 (Depending on how much it takes, you could PROBABLY boot into Windows.
> Reboot.
> 
> ****_Stress test with IBT AVX, observe your temps, and if you fail, Go To MIT\Advanced Voltage Settings again and add a couple clicks on the OFFSET for the VCore.
> You Pass, Up the Clock Ratio a Click._
> 
> That's your starting point. Repeat the last _PART_ to establish your stability.
> 
> Remember, Do it Carefully
> 
> Note: A hint of NB Core will add Stability for higher clocks.
> 
> 
> Leave the MEMORY option at Stock or XMP Values if present.
Click to expand...

med llc seems to work best on these boards imo


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> med llc seems to work best on these boards imo


If I am correct, and the board acts the way my dead board acts, High will be better to start with. Only because it adds a few more millivolts overshoot. Which will compensate for the Vcore in case my recommendation is too low for a 100MHz jump.

But yes, I preferred Medium and Regular for fine tuning as they have the least Offset. Overshoot. Thus will run a little bit cooler.









That's for him to discover REALLY..


----------



## SimpleJack

So I did as prescribed. The vcore was up to +.175 and ratio was at 24.5 and then while testing the rig shut down.

Every time I try to restart it fires up but doesn't get to the BIOS screen before it shuts off.

I've removed the power cord and reattached, I've hit reset which doesn't do anything after it shuts down. I Un hooked one of the GTX 760s so that there's plenty of power. Same result.


----------



## SimpleJack

Oh wow!! Rebooted into BIOS!! Set everything to optimized defaults. Please advise!


----------



## Mega Man

sounds to me like you need more vcore


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> So I did as prescribed. The vcore was up to +.175 and ratio was at 24.5 and then while testing the rig shut down.
> 
> Every time I try to restart it fires up but doesn't get to the BIOS screen before it shuts off.
> 
> I've removed the power cord and reattached, I've hit reset which doesn't do anything after it shuts down. I Un hooked one of the GTX 760s so that there's plenty of power. Same result.


Have you passed the 4.8?
If yes, and 4.9 didn't. You must have reach the Voltage wall. But don't worry.

A voltage wall, is a characteristic that happens to these chips a lot. i.e. you passed 4.8 with a +0.100 on the core. Jumped into 4.9 with +0.200 but the chip just shut down. It is Voltage wall. Simply requires more Voltage with the same frequency increase. Try feeding it a higher voltage as long as your cooler can handle it.

Most can clear 4.8 with less than 1.488 Volts but requires more than 1.55 to clear 4.9. Get what I'm up to?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> Oh wow!! Rebooted into BIOS!! Set everything to optimized defaults. Please advise!


So I'm gonna ask you. What are the temps you have seen at 4.8? How far was it from Max?


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds to me like you need more vcore


If I go to +.200 it shuts down, +.225 i gwt the same result


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Have you passed the 4.8?
> If yes, and 4.9 didn't. You must have reach the Voltage wall. But don't worry.
> 
> A voltage wall, is a characteristic that happens to these chips a lot. i.e. you passed 4.8 with a +0.100 on the core. Jumped into 4.9 with +0.200 but the chip just shut down. It is Voltage wall. Simply requires more Voltage with the same frequency increase. Try feeding it a higher voltage as long as your cooler can handle it.
> 
> Most can clear 4.8 with less than 1.488 Volts but requires more than 1.55 to clear 4.9. Get what I'm up to?
> So I'm gonna ask you. What are the temps you have seen at 4.8? How far was it from Max?


I see what you're getting at. Passed at 4.8 with a +.100. Temps were at 76. Should i hit +.250?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> I see what you're getting at. Passed at 4.8 with a +.100. Temps were at 76. Should i hit +.250?


76 Core? Stop right there.









If it's on core, you need to back down the voltages. or Get a better cooler. 72 is the MAX Core Temp allowed for these chips.

If that's on the Package, you'll be throttling.

Show a screeny of HWInfo if you can at 4.8 under load


----------



## SimpleJack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 76 Core? Stop right there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it's on core, you need to back down the voltages. or Get a better cooler. 72 is the MAX Core Temp allowed for these chips.
> 
> If that's on the Package, you'll be throttling.
> 
> Show a screeny of HWInfo if you can at 4.8


 49plus250.PNG 36k .PNG file


so i haven't run a burn on this one bc of the temp, but the CPU is up and runnin so before i do antyhing i figured i'd shoot the screeny and see what you think? i was topping 76 at 4.8 while passing 15 tests on IBT.

I have a corsair H100 cooling, but i'm open to upgrading of course.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> 49plus250.PNG 36k .PNG file
> 
> 
> so i haven't run a burn on this one bc of the temp, but the CPU is up and runnin so before i do antyhing i figured i'd shoot the screeny and see what you think? i was topping 76 at 4.8 while passing 15 tests on IBT.
> 
> I have a corsair H100 cooling, but i'm open to upgrading of course.


Use HWInfo64
The one you are using was proven to be buggy for FX.

But even if it is, you really need to get a better cooler or improve the fans on what you have right now.

Try lowering your Vcore a click if you can still lower those temps and pass IBT AVX..

By the way, try backing off on your LLC. If you are using HIgh or Ultra, try using Medium or Regular.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Use HWInfo64
> The one you are using was proven to be buggy for FX.


Yep.


----------



## M3TAl

98% sure I killed my 990FXA-UD3. If anyone has any ideas check my thread please. If it doesn't magically revive itself I'll be switching back to the 970A-UD3 later today, need to give one of the dogs a bath and mow the lawn







. Already drained the loop too







.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1483293/dead-990fxa-ud3


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimpleJack*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 76 Core? Stop right there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If it's on core, you need to back down the voltages. or Get a better cooler. 72 is the MAX Core Temp allowed for these chips.
> 
> If that's on the Package, you'll be throttling.
> 
> Show a screeny of HWInfo if you can at 4.8
> 
> 
> 
> 49plus250.PNG 36k .PNG file
> 
> 
> so i haven't run a burn on this one bc of the temp, but the CPU is up and runnin so before i do antyhing i figured i'd shoot the screeny and see what you think? i was topping 76 at 4.8 while passing 15 tests on IBT.
> 
> I have a corsair H100 cooling, but i'm open to upgrading of course.
Click to expand...

You may need to. You can load pics directly to ocn. Click the pic of the pic. It is easier for people on mobile I don't remember your settings either
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 98% sure I killed my 990FXA-UD3. If anyone has any ideas check my thread please. If it doesn't magically revive itself I'll be switching back to the 970A-UD3 later today, need to give one of the dogs a bath and mow the lawn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Already drained the loop too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1483293/dead-990fxa-ud3


I will but I'll be s while. In China and about to go to a funeral. Won't be able to reply till I get home sorry as I don't have data outside of the us


----------



## M3TAl

No rush, actually dismantling it right now... Will probably still try to setup the board on top of the mobo box and run external rig to see if it will run somehow... I honestly think once the NB block is removed I'm going to see crack(s) or worse lol.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> No rush, actually dismantling it right now... Will probably still try to setup the board on top of the mobo box and run external rig to see if it will run somehow... I honestly think once the NB block is removed I'm going to see crack(s) or worse lol.


So you got your board running again right? Mine never fired back up to now.

Might as well try to put it atop the box to see if there's just something messing with it.

But on a note, mine died on AIDA Stress run.. So different situation!!


----------



## Alxz

Hi guys, i'm just a total noob when it comes to overclocking; i'm using a UD5 and want to push a 6300 to 4.5 but i have my own concerns about NB/VRM temperatures, i'm runing watercooling but not cooling those; its safe to overclock the CPU (considering that radiators and its fans could be blocking the airfow on the case)??


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Hi guys, i'm just a total noob when it comes to overclocking; i'm using a UD5 and wants tu push a 6300 to 4.5 but i have my own concerns about NB/VRM temperatures, i'm runing watercooling but not cooling those; its safe to overclock the CPU (considering that radiators and its fans could be blocking the airfow on the case)??


Your 6300 at 4.5 won't hurt much the VRMs nor the NB on the UD5. But an 80mm fan could really help if that's what you're asking.

I'd assume your case could also house an exhaust fan right?


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Your 6300 at 4.5 won't hurt much the VRMs nor the NB on the UD5. But an 80mm fan could really help if that's what you're asking.
> 
> I'd assume your case could also house an exhaust fan right?


Its a Corsair 600T and i have a 200mm as intake in front then three 120mm as exhaust (i probably have to fix this, maybe the rear as intake too?...) i'm using static pressure fans (1xSP120 for the 120mm rad at rear and 2xAP15 for the 240mm at top) but since they are all "blocked" by radiators i'm wondering if airflow is that effective for the vrms and nb >:


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> So you got your board running again right? Mine never fired back up to now.
> 
> Might as well try to put it atop the box to see if there's just something messing with it.
> 
> But on a note, mine died on AIDA Stress run.. So different situation!!


Just got it up and running right now, once again. Had to drain loop for the 100th time to fix a major kink in a tube. So yes shes alive and kicking. My theory is somehow the board was shorting out. Maybe touching the mobo tray somewhere. I added tons of electrical tape to the mobo tray and she fires right up







But who knows what the problem really was.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Hi guys, i'm just a total noob when it comes to overclocking; i'm using a UD5 and want to push a 6300 to 4.5 but i have my own concerns about NB/VRM temperatures, i'm runing watercooling but not cooling those; its safe to overclock the CPU (considering that radiators and its fans could be blocking the airfow on the case)??


Watercooling with that chip you should be able to get 4.8+ easy. Your VRM and NB will be absolutely fine as long as you have some decent amount of airflow at the heatsink. Personally the NB has never given me any problems, I would worry about VRM's.

Having even a little direct airflow at the heatsink can make more than a 10C difference. Tons of airflow were talking 20C+ difference.


----------



## ebduncan

glad you got it fixed.

Mine has been going strong ever since i had to send it in to RMA (Lan stopped working) they repaired my board and sent it back, same one.

I've had it since 10/21/2011. Still going strong.


----------



## M3TAl

Got mine used from KyadCK. Really didn't need the board, honestly it's not much different from my 970A-UD3. Seems to OC the same, BIOS is little less finnicky. Only reason I got it was due to the 8320 I had. Wouldn't OC for craaaaap. Wanted to see if a different board would help, it didn't lol.

One of the worst 8320's ever. Still have it, never got around to selling it.


----------



## ebduncan

I had a 8120 first which was mediocre. Max I got out of it was 4.8ghz in benches 4.6ghz daily clocks.

Swapped it out with my current 8320 and seems I got a decent chip, can Bench at 5.26ghz daily clocks at 5ghz. Probably could bench higher if I had LLC. So must be a pretty golden chip.


----------



## M3TAl

This 8320... Anything over 2350-2400 on CPU-NB was totally unstable no matter the voltage. It would do 4.6 GHz "game" stable but even with 1.6V+ it would fail stress tests almost immediately. This was on a Kuhler 920, it never experienced this custom loop. Maybe I should pop it in for giggles and see if somehow it will magically go over 4.6 GHz.

I know it's easy to blame the user, I don't know how to OC etc. But I do. I spent many frustrating hours trying to get that thing to get past 4.6 GHz. Just wouldn't happen on the 970A or 990FXA.

This 8350 seems average. Will game stable at around 1.52V at 5GHz but doesn't pass stress tests at that. FSB sweet spot seems to be around 220-230. Cinebenched it all the way up to 5.414 GHz but that was with like 5C ambient and like 1.7V+







Think the max temp on that run was 55C on the core. It fails Cinebench at these clocks/voltages with higher ambients.


----------



## ebduncan

i run 5ghz @ 1.45 volts 

5.2ghz @ 1.55volts, but the voltage is kinda wonky at that speed so its not stable entirely. I can post with higher speeds just no where near stable, and the voltage is so wacky at 1.55+ volts (dips down to 1.5volts) so pushing higher is out of the question.

Its been tempting to get another motherboard with LLC and try my luck, but figure its only small gains.


----------



## M3TAl

5 GHz at 1.45







Damn. That an FSB OC or pure multi?


----------



## ebduncan

23.5 muti and 215mhz FSB so 5052mhz, but I just say 5ghz

2365 northbridge

2795 hyper transport

memory at 2005mhz 9-9-9-24 @ 1.65volts

doesn't get above 50c full load with custom water loop.


----------



## M3TAl

That's mighty impressive. Good to see some more Mushkins around. Like my Mushkin Redlines except for the color completely ruins my color scheme, so they sit on a shelf







. I swear they use the same IC as these Crucial Ballistix but I'm not willing to take heatspreader off and void that lifetime warranty.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's mighty impressive. Good to see some more Mushkins around. Like my Mushkin Redlines except for the color completely ruins my color scheme, so they sit on a shelf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I swear they use the same IC as these Crucial Ballistix but I'm not willing to take heatspreader off and void that lifetime warranty.


I live by mushkin memory. They have always made a high quality product which has stood out from the crowd, with great pricing and attractive speeds.

I'm good friends with the folks over at Mushkin. Great people.


----------



## Jackson604

Need some help. I need to replace the heatsink for the northbridge/power regulator module on my GA-990FXA-UD7 and Im having trouble finding one. Does anyone know if the heatsink for the UD5 or UD3 will fit? I feel like it wont but I don't know for sure, hoping someone can help me out.

Thanks


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> I need to replace the heatsink for the northbridge/power regulator module on my GA-990FXA-UD7 and Im having trouble finding one.


Its got that heatpipe that goes to the south bridge. Have you tried Gigabyte ? It should still be under the 3 year warranty.


----------



## Jackson604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Its got that heatpipe that goes to the south bridge. Have you tried Gigabyte ? It should still be under the 3 year warranty.


I actually haven't really been able to get anyone to respond to me from gigabyte, been waiting a while. I just emailed them again today. If I cant, I was hoping as a last resort I could buy a UD5 or UD3 and use the heatsink because they are cheaper.

The southbridge chipset heatsink works just fine on its own without the heatpipe so im not too concerned about that part but I just was wondering if the heatsink will actually fit


----------



## Mega Man

Ek makes a water block for it. I use it (but I won't sell oem heatsink sorry, incase I ever sell the board ) why exactly do you need a new one?


----------



## Jackson604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ek makes a water block for it. I use it (but I won't sell oem heatsink sorry, incase I ever sell the board ) why exactly do you need a new one?


Because I am converting back from liquid cooling lol. I have the EK block in there now. My pumps failed (for the second time) and it was causing me nothing but trouble. already done half the conversion, its cheaper than replacing my pumps again.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jackson604*
> 
> Because I am converting back from liquid cooling lol. I have the EK block in there now. My pumps failed (for the second time) and it was causing me nothing but trouble. already done half the conversion, its cheaper than replacing my pumps again.


If you are looking for air coolers to replace your stock VRM and NB heatsinks, Thermalright is my bet. But not that sure if these will fit with little or less modifications.

http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/chipset_heatsink/hr-05_ifx.html

http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/mosfet_sink/hr-09%20type4.html


----------



## Jackson604

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> If you are looking for air coolers to replace your stock VRM and NB heatsinks, Thermalright is my bet. But not that sure if these will fit with little or less modifications.
> 
> http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/chipset_heatsink/hr-05_ifx.html
> 
> http://www.thermalright.com/html/products/mosfet_sink/hr-09%20type4.html


I will look into those in the meantime thanks.


----------



## M3TAl

Pumps failed twice? That's odd. Loving water over here. Never going back, even with all the hassle involved, most of it my fault too haha.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jackson604*
> 
> I will look into those in the meantime thanks.


That is really odd TBH. From Water, to Air.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Pumps failed twice? That's odd. Loving water over here. Never going back, even with all the hassle involved, most of it my fault too haha.










LOL


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Would you believe it if I told you my UD3 Rev 3 is still kicking with my 8350 at 4.7ghz? I'm kinda amazed actually lol. I guess my cooling mods work.


----------



## M3TAl

I totally believe it. My Rev 1.1 still benches at over 1.7V on vcore just fine


----------



## mus1mus

What does it take to cool the chip at 1.7? 480 rads?


----------



## Mega Man

for benching? not much, for 24/7 alot


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> for benching? not much, for 24/7 alot


I'd assume 1.7Volts for more than 5GHz right?

how high could you bench on your USS CLM8-1701 with a total of 480mm combined rads?


----------



## Mega Man

idr when i had that many rads, but i have done 5.5ghz
back then they capped the sabertooths bios @ 1.7v ( including llc )


----------



## mus1mus

hmm but can you confirm that 1.7 can still be cooled by water on an ordinary day ambient. Not talking winter cold ambient.









My chip is a big dud that needs huge voltage bumps past 4.8!!! I'm thinking if a water cooling loop would be able to keep up since even with half of the totals cores disabled, (just to try out how much of a voltage bump I am looking for) heats up pretty badly!!! socket at 45, cores 75 with a minor load at 1.6Volts!!! HMMM

Anxious, maybe..


----------



## Mega Man

when i was benching that high basically you just dont look at temps but to make sure you dont max out ( @ 92) for 24/7 purposes. see the cooling my main rig has, it will need that or more


----------



## ginger_nuts

I need some help to understand this UD3 rev 4.0









I have restarted my OC ventures, at 4.6Ghz with my 8350 vCore in BIOS @ 1.475v, NB @ 1.165v.

I have noticed that whilst using OCCT that my CPU freq. drops to 1.4Ghz @ the same time my TMPIN2 ( I believe NB temp) drops









I have disabled *ALL* power saving etc features as well.

Here are the lovely OCCT charts;





Spoiler: More Charts if you like <3











Have I missed something







please help


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I need some help to understand this UD3 rev 4.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have restarted my OC ventures, at 4.6Ghz with my 8350 vCore in BIOS @ 1.475v, NB @ 1.165v.
> 
> I have noticed that whilst using OCCT that my CPU freq. drops to 1.4Ghz @ the same time my TMPIN2 ( I believe NB temp) drops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have disabled *ALL* power saving etc features as well.
> 
> Here are the lovely OCCT charts;
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: More Charts if you like <3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have I missed something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please help


Since your temps are in check, I could only point out voltage throttle or VRM temps.

Could be wrong though.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> when i was benching that high basically you just dont look at temps but to make sure you dont max out ( @ 92) for 24/7 purposes. see the cooling my main rig has, it will need that or more


Dual 360mm rads are on the plan..(sound repetitive right?,can't help it when the money you intend to use isn't in your hands yet..lol) but will get there halfway may..

Money and space (if all goes well) 45mm alphacools minimum..


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Since your temps are in check, I could only point out voltage throttle or VRM temps.
> 
> Could be wrong though.


I hope you are. No offense intended









Using a laser thermometer, I was only reading 40 Celsius ( 104 F ) at the base of them. Give or take a little.

Plus I would hope like hell they could take at least 1.5v on all eight cores before worrying, hell my UD3 rev 1.0 can do 1.6v on six cores all day long









Since it is stable, should I worry about it anyway


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Looks to me like VRM throttling. You honestly can't tell if its stable because it is literally spending half its time at 1.4ghz and not at max.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I hope you are. No offense intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a laser thermometer, I was only reading 40 Celsius ( 104 F ) at the base of them. Give or take a little.
> 
> Plus I would hope like hell they could take at least 1.5v on all eight cores before worrying, hell my UD3 rev 1.0 can do 1.6v on six cores all day long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since it is stable, should I worry about it anyway


Lol.. No pun intended as well.

But reading 40 with an IR therm will not give you the complete picture. And NO a throttling CPU is no way STABLE. If it is, it won't!!!

There is also a chance that's voltage throttle. Something a stability test can't detect. Up your VCore a click to find out.

Also note the voltage swing on your Vcore. That's 0.040 volts from minimum to max. Pretty normal for a ud3 but my experience says, you need to have it a bit higher to counter the minimums.

1.5 and a lot of guys with experience to the board will tell you, it's toasting. PCB Browning happens at 1.45 up in my experience if not taken care of.

No BS here, but if you're happy with it, call it your way and do as you please. But it's not stable. IMO

Edit: another thing I found tricky on the board,
For example I have my Vcore at +0.100, cpu-nb at +0.100, which on windows,register my system as 4800MHz on all cores.
Go back to the bios, bump cpu-nb to +0.125, boot to windows, and 6 of my cores are running at 1600MHz. Lol

So something I should mention is the trickiness of the CPU and cpu-nb voltage combinations.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I hope you are. No offense intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Using a laser thermometer, I was only reading 40 Celsius ( 104 F ) at the base of them. Give or take a little.
> 
> Plus I would hope like hell they could take at least 1.5v on all eight cores before worrying, hell my UD3 rev 1.0 can do 1.6v on six cores all day long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since it is stable, should I worry about it anyway


I don't care what anyone(including Gigabyte reps who are probably just non-informed and only an actual engineer would know) says anymore about TMPIN1 & TMPIN2 lol. I've tested and tested and tested this. These have absolutely nothing to do with the NB and/or VRM, at least on the Rev 1.1 UD3. They are tied directly to the CPU core temp that is all I know. Added water blocks to VRM and NB made absolutely ZERO difference in TMPIN1 & 2. Only dropping CPU temp did.

Also Rev 4.0 has actual true VRM/mosfet sensors doesn't it? I've seen people post scrteenshots of them. PMBus VR or something like that? Grab HWiNFO64 and look for that PMBus.

Could be readong 40 because the heatsink is making poor contact? So the actual mosfets are scorching hot?


----------



## ginger_nuts

After more testing and cooling both the VRM's and NB heat sink, this board official seems to suck big time.

Has anyone ever used a 8350 on a UD3 rev 1.0?

I'm thinking I may just jump ship and go Intel. Or should I buy a Sabertooth?


----------



## M3TAl

There's people with 1.0's around. They don't have any LLC. 1.1's are good too. The LLC behaves different from 3.0 though.

Don't have any experience with Asus. Mega does. The board shouldn't give you problems as long as vrm temps are kept in check.


----------



## ginger_nuts

My rev 1.0 was a dream with the 1055t, happily keeps 4.2ghz at 1.6vCore.

Keep the VRM's cool you say, is there any after market coolers for them ?

I can't seem to find any of those EK blocks.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> My rev 1.0 was a dream with the 1055t, happily keeps 4.2ghz at 1.6vCore.
> 
> Keep the VRM's cool you say, is there any after market coolers for them ?
> 
> I can't seem to find any of those EK blocks.


1055ts were not 8-cores. No point for comparison on the FX 83XX especially you are on 4.6GHz on the FX.

Rev 4.0 users also reported the issue with the BIOS. There are turnarounds though. Just like on the Rev 3.0

You might wanna consider @ebduncan's VRM backplate MOD. Very simple but has it's benefits on the VRMs.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> My rev 1.0 was a dream with the 1055t, happily keeps 4.2ghz at 1.6vCore.
> 
> Keep the VRM's cool you say, is there any after market coolers for them ?
> 
> I can't seem to find any of those EK blocks.


Those EK blocks are discontinued. I got literally one of the last around. Only way you'll find one is used. Oh and it will only fit 1.0/1/1/1.2 boards. Maybe 3.0 also? On the 4.0 they spread the mosfets further apart. The hole spacing is much larger too for the heatsink. Previous revisions is 88mm hole spacing but the 4.0 I'm pretty sure is much more than that.

As long as the heatsink is making proper contact and there is some amount of airflow on it the temps should be fine. I'm still curous what temps you're getting for PMBus VR in HWiNFO64. That's the actual sensor for the mosfets that only Rev 4.0 has.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Those EK blocks are discontinued. I got literally one of the last around. Only way you'll find one is used. Oh and it will only fit 1.0/1/1/1.2 boards. Maybe 3.0 also? On the 4.0 they spread the mosfets further apart. The hole spacing is much larger too for the heatsink. Previous revisions is 88mm hole spacing but the 4.0 I'm pretty sure is much more than that.
> 
> *As long as the heatsink is making proper contact and there is some amount of airflow on it the temps should be fine. I'm still curous what temps you're getting for PMBus VR in HWiNFO64. That's the actual sensor for the mosfets that only Rev 4.0 has.*


OMG that HWiNFO64 is AWESOME









At idle with 1.475v Core they are sitting at 56 Celsius ( 133 F )

I wonder how hard it is to make a water block for them **headscratch* OR Is it even worth it







OR Do I go ASUS or INTEL or both.

I truly would love to stick with Gigabyte


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> OMG that HWiNFO64 is AWESOME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At idle with 1.475v Core they are sitting at 56 Celsius ( 133 F )
> 
> I wonder how hard it is to make a water block for them **headscratch* OR Is it even worth it


Grab a Copper bar thick enough to clear the height of the Capacitors and the Chokes while fitting to VRM space. Place any available VRM waterblock up top that copper bar.


----------



## Mega Man

really it is your choice, if you think you will feel better by having an over priced cpu, go for it.

i like my sabertooth.

some people like the intel switch others dont. personally i prefer my 8350 to my 3930k


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really it is your choice, if you think you will feel better by having an over priced cpu, go for it.
> 
> i like my sabertooth.
> 
> some people like the intel switch others dont. personally i prefer my 8350 to my 3930k


why's that man?

also, why didn't you went for an IB-E??


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Grab a Copper bar thick enough to clear the height of the Capacitors and the Chokes while fitting to VRM space. Place any available VRM waterblock up top that copper bar.


So something like a copper buzz bar, machined down to flat etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really it is your choice, if you think you will feel better by having an over priced cpu, go for it.
> 
> i like my sabertooth.
> 
> some people like the intel switch others dont. personally i prefer my 8350 to my 3930k


I have always thought Intel is over priced for what the difference would be for me, since games are the most demanding thing I do, I have always thought that I would be better served by a better GPU.

It's just the hype that surrounds Intel that makes me curious.

So it is a matter if I can possibly fix this with a home made fix, which is simple and cheap, ALL is good, other wise I would have to try to flog this off and get a Sabertooth, since the Crosshair V Formula is $300AUD


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So something like a copper buzz bar, machined down to flat etc.


That is if you can't find a waterblock for the board.

Just enough thickness to clear out the height of the mentioned components. As the Waterblock will sit over it, no component issues will be there.
Holes to match the mobo locking holes and maybe tapped / threaded so you're using it to lock itself rather than a nut.







and the WB locks with it as well.

It will also be cheaper and cleaner than modifying an existing waterblock since this mod will not void the WB's warranty (are there any?







)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> really it is your choice, if you think you will feel better by having an over priced cpu, go for it.
> 
> i like my sabertooth.
> 
> some people like the intel switch others dont. personally i prefer my 8350 to my 3930k
> 
> 
> 
> why's that man?
> 
> also, why didn't you went for an IB-E??
Click to expand...

i am going to get a chip but 39xx tend to clock farther then 49xx ( waiting for the intel promo, i have hooks up )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> So something like a copper buzz bar, machined down to flat etc.
> 
> 
> 
> That is if you can't find a waterblock for the board.
> 
> Just enough thickness to clear out the height of the mentioned components. As the Waterblock will sit over it, no component issues will be there.
> Holes to match the mobo locking holes and maybe tapped / threaded so you're using it to lock itself rather than a nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and the WB locks with it as well.
> 
> It will also be cheaper and cleaner than modifying an existing waterblock since this mod will not void the WB's warranty (are there any?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
Click to expand...

wbs come with usually a year iirc i never have had an issue


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am going to get a chip but 39xx tend to clock farther then 49xx ( waiting for the intel promo, i have hooks up )


Really a plus when you are in the know (promos and stuff) when buying these expensive chips.








Quote:


> wbs come with usually a year iirc i never have had an issue


Yeah, not really that you need a warranty for a water block anyway. Unless you get a bad one right on. Which is still very rare occurrence


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> OMG that HWiNFO64 is AWESOME
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At idle with 1.475v Core they are sitting at 56 Celsius ( 133 F )
> 
> I wonder how hard it is to make a water block for them **headscratch* OR Is it even worth it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> OR Do I go ASUS or INTEL or both.
> 
> I truly would love to stick with Gigabyte


You could try one of the Koolance MVR blocks. I don't know too much about them but they're sort of universal and can accommodate different sizes. Needs a heat plate too, or maybe just sometimes if the block itself doesn't fit? http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=66 and
http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=29_148_108

What temps is that PMBus hitting at load?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You could try one of the Koolance MVR blocks. I don't know too much about them but they're sort of universal and can accommodate different sizes. Needs a heat plate too, or maybe just sometimes if the block itself doesn't fit? http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=66 and
> http://koolance.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=29_148_108
> 
> What temps is that PMBus hitting at load?


Those Koolance blocks look interesting, I might just do some measuring.

I will test the load this evening after work, say in another 14hrs or so


----------



## ginger_nuts

OK so I have only ran IBT for ten runs on standard, I know it is no means a stability test, but it does load 100%.


Spoiler: BIOS settings










As you can see below my MAX. temp on the MOSFET's reached 93 Celsius











My max CPU temp was 46 celsius which IMO is









Edit: Using CPUz I never witnessed it drop off from 4.6Ghz. And HWiNFO64 didn't report a drop either.


----------



## xXUNLUCKYXx

I have a rev 3 UD3, do you not find you get random multiplier drops with HPC mode disabled?

You don't get the option for AMP mode in my BIOS either which sucks.


----------



## ginger_nuts

That could explain some things









I will try


----------



## xXUNLUCKYXx

Careful with temps with HPC mode on they will increase a good bit try lowering volts if you can.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> OK so I have only ran IBT for ten runs on standard, I know it is no means a stability test, but it does load 100%.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: BIOS settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see below my MAX. temp on the MOSFET's reached 93 Celsius
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My max CPU temp was 46 celsius which IMO is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Using CPUz I never witnessed it drop off from 4.6Ghz. And HWiNFO64 didn't report a drop either.


well.. hate to tell you that version of ibt is NOT worth its weight you can tell from the low gflops

you should try ibt avx download from the 83xx thread opening post ( check the clubs section of my sig )


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> OK so I have only ran IBT for ten runs on standard, I know it is no means a stability test, but it does load 100%.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: BIOS settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see below my MAX. temp on the MOSFET's reached 93 Celsius
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My max CPU temp was 46 celsius which IMO is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Using CPUz I never witnessed it drop off from 4.6Ghz. And HWiNFO64 didn't report a drop either.


93C for only ~1.46V is pretty high IMO. Not sure what temp it throttles at, maybe around 100-115C. Now I don't have mosfet sensors but I do have a thermal probe on the back of the board right in the middle of the mosfets. Running 1.44-1.48V (depends on load with LLC) that sensor hits around 45-50C with a 26C ambient during CPU inensive benchmarks. That is with a waterbock though.

Having proper heatsink contact and some amount of airflow right at the heatsink can make a big difference. Using a blower fan when I had a heatsink would drop load temps of that sensor around 20C. Even a small amount of air can make 10C difference.


----------



## xXUNLUCKYXx

This was a game changer for me keeping VRM temps down and getting a solid OC


----------



## M3TAl

Bet that fan made a 10-20C difference.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I'm starting to think that I may have to reseat my mosfet heat sink, my temps above where with a 120mm fan running at 1200rpm.


----------



## M3TAl

If you can find/get Fujipoly Extreme in Australia I highly recommend it. Top notch thermal pads. Much better than the junk that came with my 1.1 UD3. Think the stock one is either 0.5mm or 1mm thick.

Only place I know of to get it in USA: http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g8/c487/s1730/list/p1/Thermal_Interface-Thermal_Pads_Tape-Extreme_Thermal_Pads-Page1.html

The industrial name and specs: http://www.fujipoly.com/usa/products/sarcon-thermal-management-components/thermal-gap-filler-pads/high-performance-gap-filler/xr-e.html


----------



## Mega Man

really it is just excessive overkill esp for vrms 6mk/w is more then enough


----------



## M3TAl

$3.99 vs $7.49 for 100x15x1.0. Why not go overkill for $3.50?


----------



## Mega Man

you are assuming 1 no shipping ( fcpu will always charge a min of 10 for shipping), 2 the person does not already have enough, 3 that there are not other places to buy thermal pads with different prices


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you can find/get Fujipoly Extreme in Australia I highly recommend it. Top notch thermal pads. Much better than the junk that came with my 1.1 UD3. Think the stock one is either 0.5mm or 1mm thick.
> 
> Only place I know of to get it in USA: http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g8/c487/s1730/list/p1/Thermal_Interface-Thermal_Pads_Tape-Extreme_Thermal_Pads-Page1.html
> 
> The industrial name and specs: http://www.fujipoly.com/usa/products/sarcon-thermal-management-components/thermal-gap-filler-pads/high-performance-gap-filler/xr-e.html


Very impressive looking stuff, if I can find another reason to buy from Frozen CPU I will get some, but the cost and time taken for shipping









The best in Australia seems to be Phobya pads http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_335 which is only rated at 5W/mK.

Would that be OK ?


----------



## ebduncan

in most cases its not because the bad vrm pad, but because the vrm's don't actually make contact with the vrm heatsink/pad.

The boards get warped in this area causing poor contact.

That being said I posted a how-to here in this thread a number of pages back, of how to make a metal back plate for the vrms on the UD3 which cures the warping issues, provides additional cooling, and resolves the poor mounting pressure problem.


----------



## M3TAl

ginger_nuts is rockin a Rev 4.0 though. VRM's are spread apart further and the heatsink is much larger. Don't know if it still warps though.


----------



## ebduncan

oh, didn't notice he had rev 4.0.


----------



## Borellie

I did used the rev. 1.2 for about 4 years, but a few days ago ive got an Sata controller conflict, all of the installed hdd's didn't listen anymore so i did send the board nearly straight to the shop.

After a few days the shop did let me know about the broken board so they send me an new 3.0. So i rebuild the system and wanted to know about the oc potential. So i put in the mem, an fx4300 and did go in the uefi and play arround whitin the mem.

G.Skill 8 GB DDR3-1600 F3-12800CL8D-8GBRM

When i did set the mem at 1600 and raidsed the htt whtin crementiials about 3 a time, i dont get the mem stable @1650Mhz @1.65Vdimm.

When i used custom latencies 9-9-9-24-34 they dont want straight forward and even at its1.7Vdimm 10-10-10-24-34 the dont want any further.

mem is compatble as they are listed at the mem qvl. So any suggestion about what mem i should get appreciated..

here waas earlier an conflict whitin the Sata-controller


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borellie*
> 
> I did used the rev. 1.2 for about 4 years, but a few days ago ive got an Sata controller conflict, all of the installed hdd's didn't listen anymore so i did send the board nearly straight to the shop.
> 
> After a few days the shop did let me know about the broken board so they send me an new 3.0. So i rebuild the system and wanted to know about the oc potential. So i put in the mem, an fx4300 and did go in the uefi and play arround whitin the mem.
> 
> G.Skill 8 GB DDR3-1600 F3-12800CL8D-8GBRM
> 
> When i did set the mem at 1600 and raidsed the htt whtin crementiials about 3 a time, i dont get the mem stable @1650Mhz @1.65Vdimm.
> 
> When i used custom latencies 9-9-9-24-34 they dont want straight forward and even at its1.7Vdimm 10-10-10-24-34 the dont want any further.
> 
> mem is compatble as they are listed at the mem qvl. So any suggestion about what mem i should get appreciated..
> 
> here waas earlier an conflict whitin the Sata-controller


Bios Screens.


----------



## Alxz

Hey people which block is this one for the UD5 ?? (it seems that he only WC the north bridge without removing the vrm heatsink isnt it?)


----------



## M3TAl

The hole spacing seems larger than on the 1.0/1.1/1/2/3.0 UD3 so the only block that I know of that could possibly fit is the Koolance MVR with the different size heatplates.


----------



## Alxz

Oh woah i forgott to add the picture, http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx321/vop1234/computer/IMG_20111014_141906.jpg


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Oh woah i forgott to add the picture, http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx321/vop1234/computer/IMG_20111014_141906.jpg


Not too sure..

But seems similar. http://www.ekwb.com/uploads/images/EK-NB-SB-5-Acetal.jpg


----------



## necrox123

I need help guys.. i dont know what's going on my PC here are my specs

AMD FX 6300 running in stock
990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0
2x4gb G.Skill RipjawsX 1600mhz XMP [XMP: Disabled][ALL: Auto]
Sapphire 6950 1gb GDDR5 256bit [in 6950 switch][not OC'ed]
1tb seagate barracuda 64mb cache 7200rpm
Seasonic M12II 620w

1st setup
Fresh Install windows 7 ultimate integrated
installed drivers
13.12 for both chipset and graphics
in IDE not AHCI

2nd setup
Fresh Install windows 7 ultimate integrated
installed drivers
13.12 for chipset 13.4 for graphics
in IDE not AHCI

rarely i'm experiencing after the "Welcome" blue screen.. my windows aero are disabled then after i think 10secs it will back to Aero.. then while i'm using it the windows explorer will not respond.. but i can hover my mouse.. but i cant click it, even ctrl alt delete not working then after 30secs it will back to normal again.. no message or pop-up "windows explorer is not responding blah blah" even in event viewer there are no logs.. has anyone had experience it? what can i do about it? the two setups problem exists..

Thanks in advance


----------



## ginger_nuts

It sounds like something is using the hard drive enough to stall windows.

I have this sometimes on my HTPC, but that is running a Phenom II and 970-UD3. But like you mentioned it goes back to normal, with no msg or anything.


----------



## necrox123

Quote:


> It sounds like something is using the hard drive enough to stall windows.


i'm also suspecting my Hard Disk.. because it is somewhat old.. but in HD sentinel and HD Tune 100% in health and performance.. now im using 14.4 in chipset and 13.12 for graphics i will check if the problem persists


----------



## gunfire232

my computer FX9370 + 990FXA ud3 rev 4.0
why my Cpu run only 4.4Ghz not turbo 4.7 ?

thanks

How setting main run 4.7?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necrox123*
> 
> i'm also suspecting my Hard Disk.. because it is somewhat old.. but in HD sentinel and HD Tune 100% in health and performance.. now im using 14.4 in chipset and 13.12 for graphics i will check if the problem persists


Not to sure how these programs check health, but if the HDD is getting old it will slow, I think it has to do with getting old sectors becoming corrupt then having to use spare sectors, which means the drives head needs to keep moving to find the info you are after.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunfire232*
> 
> my computer FX9370 + 990FXA ud3 rev 4.0
> why my Cpu run only 4.4Ghz not turbo 4.7 ?
> 
> thanks
> 
> How setting main run 4.7?


If everything in your BIOS is set for "Optimal Performance" and this is still happening, I would say it is the MOSFET's throttling the power to the CPU, which in turn, limits the speed of it.

It maybe worth contacting Gigabyte


----------



## necrox123

Quote:


> Not to sure how these programs check health, but if the HDD is getting old it will slow, I think it has to do with getting old sectors becoming corrupt then having to use spare sectors, which means the drives head needs to keep moving to find the info you are after.


did you change your hard disk? are you still experiencing this kind of problem?


----------



## gunfire232

Main setting default. turbo enable. i see cpu run only boot 4.4Mhz
although run multiple applications T_T

i speak english is not good. thanks :3


----------



## gunfire232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Not to sure how these programs check health, but if the HDD is getting old it will slow, I think it has to do with getting old sectors becoming corrupt then having to use spare sectors, which means the drives head needs to keep moving to find the info you are after.
> If everything in your BIOS is set for "Optimal Performance" and this is still happening, I would say it is the MOSFET's throttling the power to the CPU, which in turn, limits the speed of it.
> 
> It maybe worth contacting Gigabyte


Main setting default. turbo enable. i see cpu run only boot 4.4Mhz
although run multiple applications T_T

i speak english is not good. thanks :3


----------



## necrox123

Quote:


> Main setting default. turbo enable. i see cpu run only boot 4.4Mhz
> although run multiple applications T_T
> 
> i speak english is not good. thanks :3


you can set the boost by using your keyboard from auto to your desired clock speed


----------



## gunfire232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necrox123*
> 
> you can set the boost by using your keyboard from auto to your desired clock speed


How can i set the boost by using your keyboard from auto to your desired clock speed?


----------



## necrox123

Quote:


> How can i set the boost by using your keyboard from auto to your desired clock speed? biggrin.gif


the "+" and "-" in your keyboard


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunfire232*
> 
> my computer FX9370 + 990FXA ud3 rev 4.0
> why my Cpu run only 4.4Ghz not turbo 4.7 ?
> 
> thanks
> 
> How setting main run 4.7?


Heat???

Remember turbo will only kick in if the requirements such as temps are within range (ideal)

And, turbo speeds are not guaranteed.

You want it to run at 4.7, over clocking involved..


----------



## gunfire232

I setting bios main 990FXA ud3 rev 4 with FX 9370

Turn off AMD Turbo Core Technology
Turn off APM (Application Power Management)
Turn off "Cool 'n' Quiet"
Turn off "C1E"
Turn off "CPU Fan Control"

Increase the multiplier : 22.5 = 4500 MHz
CPU core power : 1.5125v = auto

save and exit not run T_T not start

Do you know why ?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunfire232*
> 
> I setting bios main 990FXA ud3 rev 4 with FX 9370
> 
> Turn off AMD Turbo Core Technology
> Turn off APM (Application Power Management)
> Turn off "Cool 'n' Quiet"
> Turn off "C1E"
> Turn off "CPU Fan Control"
> 
> Increase the multiplier : 22.5 = 4500 MHz
> CPU core power : 1.5125v = auto
> 
> save and exit not run T_T not start
> 
> Do you know why ?


Decrease de multiplier and if you can boot now then you must adjust the voltages manually. Also check that memory frecuency is set correctly to the RAM modules specs. Once you oc your cpu then you can proceed to oc the RAM.


----------



## ginger_nuts

1.5v on 8 cores is a lot as I have learnt.

That is a lot of heat


----------



## gunfire232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 1.5v on 8 cores is a lot as I have learnt.
> 
> That is a lot of heat


Default FX9370 run 4.4Mhz is 1.5125v => i set 1.5125v but it dont run T_T

This is default


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunfire232*
> 
> Default FX9370 run 4.4Mhz is 1.5125v => i set 1.5125v but it dont run T_T
> 
> This is default


Even at default your system is throttling.. According to core temp..

But don't worry, use HW Info64 and scrap that core temp and he monitor craps. They don't work well with amd FX.

Also consider LLC stuff when setting the voltages. I have no idea about r4 but r3 only uses offsets. (1.5 by default is on auto llc. Might kick the v either up or down so setting it manually requires some time to get to know how the board behaves especially on the voltages)

I wonder if @KYADCK visits here from time to time but if you'd like, you can visit the main vishera thread to consult. He'd be more than willing to help you with the board.


----------



## ginger_nuts

The link for for

*HW Info64*

It works a treat









Also how warm is it locally ? Even your HDD are showing temps near 40 Celsius, this tells me your case is pretty warm


----------



## M3TAl

1.5V for 4.4 GHz? That seems a little insane. Insanely high for 4.4 GHz.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 1.5V for 4.4 GHz? That seems a little insane. Insanely high for 4.4 GHz.


It's a 9370. VID is quite high but that could be due to how the chip was binned.

Turbo Clock of 4.7 GHz will need that high Vcore.


----------



## necrox123

Quote:


> Not to sure how these programs check health, but if the HDD is getting old it will slow, I think it has to do with getting old sectors becoming corrupt then having to use spare sectors, which means the drives head needs to keep moving to find the info you are after.


did you change your hard disk? are you still experiencing this kind of problem?


----------



## davwman

So I've got a rev.4 coming and plan on over clocking an fx8350 on water. Will I have issues like the older revision 990fxa boards?


----------



## M3TAl

You never know until you try. As long as VRM temps are kept in check it should be fine. Should is the keyword here lol.


----------



## MoStyles

I have a rev.4 and I could clock a 8320 to 4.7ghz with on a hyper plus HSF. never tried over 1.4volts. It throttled a little bit, but for a $30 HSF I couldn't complain. Run at 4.5 for 24/7 just to stay safe, cool and steady. If you have decent cooling in your case to keep some breeze on the VRMs, you should be fine.


----------



## ginger_nuts

But me on the other hand with a 8350 at 1.4ish V finds it throttles after about 30-40 min of game play









The chip is at 4.7Ghz.

It is a matter of luck of the draw


----------



## LinusBE

Hello, I am looking for a higher end motherboard than my current one for better overclocking capabilities and I found a nearly new Sabertooth R2.0 for 110 euro. Today I found a 990FXA-UD5 new for 99 euro (while the UD3 costs 113 euro in that same store). Which one is the better deal? Thanks in advance


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> But me on the other hand with a 8350 at 1.4ish V finds it throttles after about 30-40 min of game play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chip is at 4.7Ghz.
> 
> It is a matter of luck of the draw


Have you found out if your throttling is caused directly by VRM temps? I think once those PMBus VR things hit maybe100-115C throttling kicks in?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Hello, I am looking for a higher end motherboard than my current one for better overclocking capabilities and I found a nearly new Sabertooth R2.0 for 110 euro. Today I found a 990FXA-UD5 new for 99 euro (while the UD3 costs 113 euro in that same store). Which one is the better deal? Thanks in advance


Both were pretty good..

But not both of them are pretty.









Performance should be very close. Just make sure to pick the right revision. R2 for the kitty. I have no idea for the ud5.

How much does a UD7 cost? It's still cheaper than a Kitty from where I am..

But all in all, either way you'll go, you'll be happy..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> But me on the other hand with a 8350 at 1.4ish V finds it throttles after about 30-40 min of game play
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The chip is at 4.7Ghz.
> 
> It is a matter of luck of the draw


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Have you found out if your throttling is caused directly by VRM temps? I think once those PMBus VR things hit maybe100-115C throttling kicks in?


Sh(C)ould be the VRM..

I heard they go hotter than Prime when Playing some heavy games.. But never had any experience about it..


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Both were pretty good..
> 
> But not both of them are pretty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Performance should be very close. Just make sure to pick the right revision. R2 for the kitty. I have no idea for the ud5.
> 
> How much does a UD7 cost? It's still cheaper than a Kitty from where I am..
> 
> But all in all, either way you'll go, you'll be happy..


Thank you. I asked the store what revision they have. A UD7 costs 200 euros here and does not fit in my case.

I read something about the UD5 and it seems that this board doesn't have llc? Or am I missing something?


----------



## zila

Rev. 1 Does not have LLC. Rev. 3 is the desired board to have. I have Rev. 3. It's a beautiful board.









Edit: Rev. 3 has CPU LLC and with bios FCb also has APM control in bios. The board is well built with strong vrms.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Thank you. I asked the store what revision they have. A UD7 costs 200 euros here and does not fit in my case.
> 
> I read something about the UD5 and it seems that this board doesn't have llc? Or am I missing something?


What case do you have? Pretty sure they are just a tad of the same sizes.









I'm not really in the know about which revision has LLC. And if they are good.









But according to @Madgoat,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> No performance advamtage, Same board different BIOS essentially... as long as you have LLC you good. Im on a 1.0 that doesnt have LLC...
> 
> 1.1 is probably the most solid rev out of the UD3 boards.


So that's the model to look for..

Rev. 1 doesn't have LLC which is useful for OC'ing but really, people have been able to OC up to 5GHz even without LLC..

Edit, apologies, he meant the UD3. But UD5s with LLC are pretty common..

2nd Edit, I saw you mentioned UD3 as well. Experience says, pfft.. Unless it's a rev 1.1 as others mentioned to be good OC'ing board, stay out of it. You're better off with a UD5 at least. Or if money is not an issue, pick a UD7 or the Asus.

One thing to note,

UD3 and UD5 can support 3 PCIe Video cards with ease. See PCIe spacing.
UD7 can support Quadfire or Quad SLI natively with right PCIe spacing (the only 990FX board able to). See @RED1176's http://www.overclock.net/t/1473361/amd-high-performance-project-by-red1776/240#post_22303868

Saberkitty and CHV-FZ can only support up to 3 cards.

You might need to consider these in case you have a plan for Multi Video Card rig.


----------



## LinusBE

I have a Carbide 300r. But the UD7 is too expensive. If the store has a good revision I will buy the UD5. It looks beautiful


----------



## zila

Oh it is quite beautiful. And like I said, it is built very well. They did not skimp on the quality when they built these. I think you'll like it.









Edit: I have the Rev. 1 and the Rev. 3 of these boards. And even though the Rev. 1 does not have cpu llc, it is still a very nice board. I do prefer one with the cpu llc control which is why I also purchased the Rev. 3. They are both solid.

The only complaint I would have is that the bios is a little funky but once you get used to it and learn the little tweaks and tips you'll like it just fine.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> I have a Carbide 300r. But the UD7 is too expensive. If the store has a good revision I will buy the UD5. It looks beautiful


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Oh it is quite beautiful. And like I said, it is built very well. They did not skimp on the quality when they built these. I think you'll like it.


Agreed.


----------



## LinusBE

According to the Ean code on the store page, the motherboard is a UD5 Rev 1.1. I would have preferred the Rev 3 because of llc, but I'm waiting for a response from the store before I buy this or the Sabertooth.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> According to the Ean code on the store page, the motherboard is a UD5 Rev 1.1. I would have preferred the Rev 3 because of llc, but I'm waiting for a response from the store before I buy this or the Sabertooth.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


I think it has LLC but I could be wrong.

Make sure you pick the R 2.0 if you chose the Kitty. Just plain Asus Sabertooth 990 FX R 2.0. Someone told me not to pick the one with a Gen 3 for a number of reasons. So there ya go..


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I think it has LLC but I could be wrong.
> 
> Make sure you pick the R 2.0 if you chose the Kitty. Just plain Asus Sabertooth 990 FX R 2.0. Someone told me not to pick the one with a Gen 3 for a number of reasons. So there ya go..


The store responded and it was the r1.0. I will buy the Sabertooth R2.0 then. It's a shame, because the UD5 is beautiful.

Thank you for the help


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> The store responded and it was the r1.0. I will buy the Sabertooth R2.0 then. It's a shame, because the UD5 is beautiful.
> 
> Thank you for the help


I'm on a Kitty at the moment.. You will enjoy it.


----------



## necrox123

Replaced my hard disk with a brand new one :| still the windows explorer will not respond in a matter of seconds without getting any error of "explorer.exe is not responding blah blah.." this is my 10th time reformatting my unit.. whew :|


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necrox123*
> 
> Replaced my hard disk with a brand new one :| still the windows explorer will not respond in a matter of seconds without getting any error of "explorer.exe is not responding blah blah.." this is my 10th time reformatting my unit.. whew :|


Is the machine overclocked?

Instability if it is. Or faulty ram.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'm on a Kitty at the moment.. You will enjoy it.


I got another response from the store and that person said they have rev 3.0 and not rev 1.0. So I guess I'll buy it and see what rev I get


----------



## zila

Ask them to to send you a Rev. 3 board. It's on the sticker on the outside of the box.









If these are open packages, it's on the corner of the board.

Oops, never mind, I misread the post..................









They said they have Rev. 3 boards so that sounds good.


----------



## Roaches

Has anyone here got their hands an a 990FXA-UD7 Rev 3.0? I've notice they've fixed the PCIe slots appearance and UEFI. Has the VRMs improved?


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Ask them to to send you a Rev. 3 board. It's on the sticker on the outside of the box.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If these are open packages, it's on the corner of the board.
> 
> Oops, never mind, I misread the post..................
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They said they have Rev. 3 boards so that sounds good.


Yes and I will mention it again that I want a rev 3.0 when I transfer the money







I will be very happy when a rev 3.0 lands on my doorstep and even more happy when I actually like the board







I find it a lot more beautiful than the Sabertooth because of the color scheme Asus uses and hopefully it performs the same.


----------



## necrox123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Is the machine overclocked?
> 
> Instability if it is. Or faulty ram.


No i'm running on stock. Faulty ram? I dont think so. Because i ran memtest 5x last week without an error.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Has anyone here got their hands an a 990FXA-UD7 Rev 3.0? I've notice they've fixed the PCIe slots appearance and UEFI. Has the VRMs improved?


I've seen them in mircocenter. I haven't personally used one yet though.

There is nothing wrong with the VRM on the gigabyte boards. The problem lies with how they are cooled on some boards. The UD7 has the best factory vrm cooling so most haven't experienced issues.

The rev 3.0 UD7 has the same improved VRM that the UD3 Rev 4.0 has.

Bios, not sure about, it is UEFI bios. Not sure if anyone here owns the newest revision UD7, (3.0) because it quite literally just came available just recently.

I've thought about buying one. To move up from my ud3 rev 1.0.


----------



## MadGoat

REV 4.0 is the board to have BTW... out of all the rev's (which I have owned and used a them all in the 990fxa-ud3) the rev 4.0 is the best...


----------



## Roaches

I'd prefer visual confirmation of the VRMs, I can't seem to find any on the net, gonna keep searching google images.

EDIT: I found VRM data of the old revision



http://www.vishay.com/docs/64981/sic769cd.pdf

also noticed the latest revision has newer chokes.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> I'd prefer visual confirmation of the VRMs, I can't seem to find any on the net, gonna keep searching google images.
> 
> EDIT: I found VRM data of the old revision
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.vishay.com/docs/64981/sic769cd.pdf
> 
> also noticed the latest revision has newer chokes.


lovely board


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> lovely board


I concur mate, i really like the aesthetics of gigabyte boards.

that is one of the reasons why i bought an UD5 rev 1.1 its nice and clean and performs almost or just as good as the more expensive Asus Sabretooth









I never had VRM issues or burned my hands on them, i tested several times when i was doing benchmarks or stability tests but they never went hot, warm yes but not hot.


----------



## Red1776

I own three UD7's and have really put the screws to all of them. The Split Power Plane, 8+2 phase VRM/driver MOSFET has been flawless with high voltage OC's and quadfire loaded boards. The high socket temps I am constantly reading about in the forums are a bit perplexing. Mine don't get that high even without the 80mm fan I always put on the VRM heatsink by default.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I concur mate, i really like the aesthetics of gigabyte boards.
> 
> that is one of the reasons why i bought an UD5 rev 1.1 its nice and clean and performs almost or just as good as the more expensive Asus Sabretooth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never had VRM issues or burned my hands on them, i tested several times when i was doing benchmarks or stability tests but they never went hot, warm yes but not hot.


For the price I paid for the kitty, I could have gotten the ud7. Unfortunately the revision available locally is, I think r1. And they said it doesn't have llc..

Anyway, ud7s are great, I know.. And nice lookers.. But I don't have regrets for getting the kitty..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> I own three UD7's and have really put the screws to all of them. The Split Power Plane, 8+2 phase VRM/driver MOSFET has been flawless with high voltage OC's and quadfire loaded boards. The high socket temps I am constantly reading about in the forums are a bit perplexing. Mine don't get that high even without the 80mm fan I always put on the VRM heatsink by default.


Noticed my socket temp is frequency dependent. At mild OCs, 4.7 for example, socket is higher than core.. But at 4.8 up, core is higher than socket.. Some people might have missed that.

Also, VRM temp affects the socket as well.. I can see a drop of at least 10 degrees with a fan on the VRMs.. Without a fan on the VRM, I can see about 70+ degrees stressing on a high ambient summer. That goes down lower than 60s with a fan on the heatsink.

But yeah, a fan at the backside of the mobo helps by about 5 degrees depending on how good it catches air..

My hunch, VRM temp and socket have dependencies..


----------



## GroovyMotion

So I am back with my CPU heat issues, an interesting thing happened. I decided to open the case, lie it flat and do a last test before removing some parts to rebuild the old PC temporarely.
I restart the PC, then I notice that the cpu cooler rund on idle (which is never the case as it runs 100% even on idle), I open several apps and check the temp sensors. On full load the cpu never goes above 54C...usually it jumps to 80C within minutes?!

So, I am back to square one once again...I know the CPU is not cooled enough and dissipate more heat than it should but by just having the PC horizontally and case open it's interesting to see that the cpu is quite cool. My casing is a Corsair Carbide which has insulated panels so it could actually be the problem?









*edit* I closed the case but leaved it horizontally and still no temp issues lol system is silent and cool! Maybe it's the way the H60 is positionned but it seems fine.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> So I am back with my CPU heat issues, an interesting thing happened. I decided to open the case, lie it flat and do a last test before removing some parts to rebuild the old PC temporarely.
> I restart the PC, then I notice that the cpu cooler rund on idle (which is never the case as it runs 100% even on idle), I open several apps and check the temp sensors. On full load the cpu never goes above 54C...usually it jumps to 80C within minutes?!
> 
> So, I am back to square one once again...I know the CPU is not cooled enough and dissipate more heat than it should but by just having the PC horizontally and case open it's interesting to see that the cpu is quite cool. My casing is a Corsair Carbide which has insulated panels so it could actually be the problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* I closed the case but leaved it horizontally and still no temp issues lol system is silent and cool! Maybe it's the way the H60 is positionned but it seems fine.


perhaps you had a air bubble in in h60?


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> perhaps you had a air bubble in in h60?


I dunno, maybe...that's interesting!








Here is a pic showing it


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> So I am back with my CPU heat issues, an interesting thing happened. I decided to open the case, lie it flat and do a last test before removing some parts to rebuild the old PC temporarely.
> I restart the PC, then I notice that the cpu cooler rund on idle (which is never the case as it runs 100% even on idle), I open several apps and check the temp sensors. On full load the cpu never goes above 54C...usually it jumps to 80C within minutes?!
> 
> So, I am back to square one once again...I know the CPU is not cooled enough and dissipate more heat than it should but by just having the PC horizontally and case open it's interesting to see that the cpu is quite cool. My casing is a Corsair Carbide which has insulated panels so it could actually be the problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *edit* I closed the case but leaved it horizontally and still no temp issues lol system is silent and cool! Maybe it's the way the H60 is positionned but it seems fine.


Yes, sounds like air pocket in the H60. You should be able to easily hear it though. When there's a bubble in the pump it should make tons of noise.

My Kuhler 620 had a lot of evaporation and would actually run dry when the case was put flat on a table. GPU (it was on the GPU) would hit 80-90C in seconds. My friend's 620 did same on his CPU.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Yes, sounds like air pocket in the H60. You should be able to easily hear it though. When there's a bubble in the pump it should make tons of noise.
> 
> My Kuhler 620 had a lot of evaporation and would actually run dry when the case was put flat on a table. GPU (it was on the GPU) would hit 80-90C in seconds. My friend's 620 did same on his CPU.


Actually I wasn't hearing some special noise other than the fan working at full throttle.

So I shouldn't leave the case flat for too long then.
But I am happy to see that it's not the cpu or mobo that has issues.


----------



## M3TAl

Well maybe putting your case flat moved the bubble. For me it was the other way around. Putting flat would put the bubble right in the pump. The only way I could get it out was turning the PC on, picking it up, and tilting it just the right way to dislodge the bubble.

Typically when there's a bubble in the pump it makes a grinding type noise.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well maybe putting your case flat moved the bubble. For me it was the other way around. Putting flat would put the bubble right in the pump. The only way I could get it out was turning the PC on, picking it up, and tilting it just the right way to dislodge the bubble.
> 
> Typically when there's a bubble in the pump it makes a grinding type noise.


Yeah...seems to have dislodged it because temps are very low. But it's weird regarding the noise, there was no grinding.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah...seems to have dislodged it because temps are very low. But it's weird regarding the noise, there was no grinding.


Air could have settled on the highest point of the rad (on the position it is right now) and stayed there.. So it doesn't matter to your flow..

I'm having a feeling air (a small amount) was somewhat staying just above a rad port. If it gives you better results, and doesn't hurt you to see it lying that way, stick with it..









The last thing you'd want is temp skyrocketing..


----------



## M3TAl

Does anyone bench on HWBOT? Just made an account and have a noob question: can you disable cores/modules for CPU Frequency submissions? Didn't see any mention about it in the rules.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Has anyone here got their hands an a 990FXA-UD7 Rev 3.0? I've notice they've fixed the PCIe slots appearance and UEFI. Has the VRMs improved?


idk, i will say they are solid, imo weaker in the memory and cpu/nb dept then the sabertooth for ocing but all around a decent board. i will say if asus made a native quad fire board. i would jump ship immediately, i have mine blocked, never looked back
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Has anyone here got their hands an a 990FXA-UD7 Rev 3.0? I've notice they've fixed the PCIe slots appearance and UEFI. Has the VRMs improved?
> 
> 
> 
> I've seen them in mircocenter. I haven't personally used one yet though.
> 
> There is nothing wrong with the VRM on the gigabyte boards. The problem lies with how they are cooled on some boards. The UD7 has the best factory vrm cooling so most haven't experienced issues.
> 
> The rev 3.0 UD7 has the same improved VRM that the UD3 Rev 4.0 has.
> 
> Bios, not sure about, it is UEFI bios. Not sure if anyone here owns the newest revision UD7, (3.0) because it quite literally just came available just recently.
> 
> I've thought about buying one. To move up from my ud3 rev 1.0.
Click to expand...

no it didnt, been out for a year or two at min, i have one
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> REV 4.0 is the board to have BTW... out of all the rev's (which I have owned and used a them all in the 990fxa-ud3) the rev 4.0 is the best...


no such rev on ud7


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Air could have settled on the highest point of the rad (on the position it is right now) and stayed there.. So it doesn't matter to your flow..
> 
> I'm having a feeling air (a small amount) was somewhat staying just above a rad port. If it gives you better results, and doesn't hurt you to see it lying that way, stick with it..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The last thing you'd want is temp skyrocketing..


Yeah...I've seen temp go to 80C even within the bios in less than a minute! I was ready to order a new cpu but now it clearly is the H60's fault and could have been for months!


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> idk, i will say they are solid, imo weaker in the memory and cpu/nb dept then the sabertooth for ocing but all around a decent board. i will say if asus made a native quad fire board. i would jump ship immediately, i have mine blocked, never looked back


So are all Gigabyte 990FX-UD# Boards have split powerphase designs? I was hoping it would be full 8 digital phase for the UD7 at least. I'm not so fond of ASUS gimmicky and riced offerings since they tend to hide their VRM oem info through rebranding them...Though wouldn't mind if their boards are actually full nonsplit phases.

I have an FX-8350 thats been boxed almost a year, thought of selling it, though decided I might give it a second life, thus my curiosity about the UD7 and other boards.


----------



## partyboy75

Hi! Have following problem with my neighbor's GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev.4.0 running FX-8320 and Sapphire R9 280x

When I press Delete to enter UEFI there is no picture on screen. Monitor receives signal but it is black. Other than that the computer boots fine from Win7 setup DVD and hard drive. The only problem is that I cannot get picture when entering into UEFI. I tried both positions of switch on 280x videocard and it makes no difference.

As I see from Google search this is common problem with this motherboard but no solution is found that could apply to me.


----------



## GroovyMotion

I just ordered a Cougar Vortex that I will put on top of the case as an intake fan, hopefully it remove some heat from the mobo/cpu. I have the stock corsair on top, I will move it behind the vortex.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> idk, i will say they are solid, imo weaker in the memory and cpu/nb dept then the sabertooth for ocing but all around a decent board. i will say if asus made a native quad fire board. i would jump ship immediately, i have mine blocked, never looked back
> no it didnt, been out for a year or two at min, i have one
> no such rev on ud7


The asus boards support quad fire If you use the 295x2
The ud7 Rev 3.0 was announced back in July 2013. It didn't become available on New Egg until Feb, 2014. Not sure about other retailers. So not many people have the rev 3.0 board because of availability and release time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *partyboy75*
> 
> Hi! Have following problem with my neighbor's GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev.4.0 running FX-8320 and Sapphire R9 280x
> 
> When I press Delete to enter UEFI there is no picture on screen. Monitor receives signal but it is black. Other than that the computer boots fine from Win7 setup DVD and hard drive. The only problem is that I cannot get picture when entering into UEFI. I tried both positions of switch on 280x videocard and it makes no difference.
> 
> As I see from Google search this is common problem with this motherboard but no solution is found that could apply to me.


try a different monitor?

I would also flash the bios with the latest one.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> idk, i will say they are solid, imo weaker in the memory and cpu/nb dept then the sabertooth for ocing but all around a decent board. i will say if asus made a native quad fire board. i would jump ship immediately, i have mine blocked, never looked back
> no it didnt, been out for a year or two at min, i have one
> no such rev on ud7
> 
> 
> 
> The asus boards support quad fire If you use the 295x2
> The ud7 Rev 3.0 was announced back in July 2013. It didn't become available on New Egg until Feb, 2014. Not sure about other retailers. So not many people have the rev 3.0 board because of availability and release time.
Click to expand...

first

gigabyte ud7

idk/idc when it was announced but



i removed my invoice number. but yea. from the egg, and again I GOT A UD7 rev 3 ~!

second. quad gpu CFX is not quadfire



CVFz
does not say they do nor does the saberkitty. ( again it talks about quad GPU )


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Does anyone bench on HWBOT? Just made an account and have a noob question: can you disable cores/modules for CPU Frequency submissions? Didn't see any mention about it in the rules.


Yes, and yes you can *HERE* is proof, also on the OCAU forum to maximize your score they recommend to disable cores for a few of the benchies


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Yes, and yes you can *HERE* is proof, also on the OCAU forum to maximize your score they recommend to disable cores for a few of the benchies


I understand that it is for the world record/anything goes but what about Rookie Rumble AMD #2? Looking at a few submissions doesn't seem anyone has cores/modules disabled.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first
> 
> gigabyte ud7
> 
> idk/idc when it was announced but
> 
> 
> 
> i removed my invoice number. but yea. from the egg, and again I GOT A UD7 rev 3 ~!
> 
> second. quad gpu CFX is not quadfire
> 
> 
> 
> CVFz
> does not say they do nor does the saberkitty. ( again it talks about quad GPU )


They were available for a short period of time on the Egg at least when the rev 3.0 was announced anyways. I was going to order one but decided to wait because i wanted to ensure I would get a rev 3.0 board. Then Amd announced that Vishera would be the last cpu for AM3+. I lost all interest in upgrading my motherboard from the ud3 rev 1.0. I was really looking forward to getting my hands on a Steamroller core FX. Perhaps they will release one yet, but its pretty much not happening based on the info available on the web.

As far as quadfire is concerned. It doesn't matter how it is achieved. You can have four separate cards and that is quad fire. You can also have two dual gpu cards and that is also quadfire. X-Fire is determined by the number of GPUs, not the number of physical cards. It is said this way because the Dual gpu's cards operate as 2 cards effectively and only way to get performance improvement is if the game supports Crossfire. It is also why the 295x2 for example has 8 gb of vram, but each gpu only has access to 4gb. Instead of each gpu getting access to the full 8gb on board.

For the Asus Boards both the sabertooth, and the cross hair V support QuadFire. They also support 4 gpus.

From the sabertooth page "Quad-GPU SLI and Quad-GPU CrossFireX Support!

Flexible Multi-GPU solutions, Your Weapon of Choice!"

From the Crosshair page "he board features SLI™/CrossFire™ on Demand technology, supporting up to four graphics cards in a Quad-GPU SLI or 3-Way SLI™ "


----------



## Mega Man

no, it never has been the same, very unusual to have dual gpu cards, oc as much as single gpu, also again, ( fine, if you want to play word games ) i want native four way quadfire not no poor dual gpu quadfire


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> They were available for a short period of time on the Egg at least when the rev 3.0 was announced anyways. I was going to order one but decided to wait because i wanted to ensure I would get a rev 3.0 board. Then Amd announced that Vishera would be the last cpu for AM3+. I lost all interest in upgrading my motherboard from the ud3 rev 1.0. I was really looking forward to getting my hands on a Steamroller core FX. Perhaps they will release one yet, but its pretty much not happening based on the info available on the web.
> 
> As far as quadfire is concerned. It doesn't matter how it is achieved. You can have four separate cards and that is quad fire. You can also have two dual gpu cards and that is also quadfire. X-Fire is determined by the number of GPUs, not the number of physical cards. It is said this way because the Dual gpu's cards operate as 2 cards effectively and only way to get performance improvement is if the game supports Crossfire. It is also why the 295x2 for example has 8 gb of vram, but each gpu only has access to 4gb. Instead of each gpu getting access to the full 8gb on board.
> 
> For the Asus Boards both the sabertooth, and the cross hair V support QuadFire. They also support 4 gpus.
> 
> From the sabertooth page "Quad-GPU SLI and Quad-GPU CrossFireX Support!
> 
> Flexible Multi-GPU solutions, Your Weapon of Choice!"
> 
> From the Crosshair page "he board features SLI™/CrossFire™ on Demand technology, supporting up to four graphics cards in a Quad-GPU SLI or 3-Way SLI™ "


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no, it never has been the same, very unusual to have dual gpu cards, oc as much as single gpu, also again, ( fine, if you want to play word games ) i want native four way quadfire not no poor dual gpu quadfire


I bet, when you said "native four way quadfire' you meant, four PCIe ports with the right spacing for 4 dual slot cards more than anything.









Also, judging by the chipset (990FX), quad fire can easily be supported by any motherboard using the chipset due to the availability of PCIe lanes at hand. Thus the manufacturers claims. Sadly, only the UD7 was done right on the bill to support Quad GPUs by design because of the PCIe spacing.

Still, using 2 Dual GPU cards can be meant running Quad Fire. Overclock-ability is an issue of the design (PCB, Power Delivery, Cooling etc.)


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I understand that it is for the world record/anything goes but what about Rookie Rumble AMD #2? Looking at a few submissions doesn't seem anyone has cores/modules disabled.


If it makes for a better score do it.

It is allowed.

When I get home I will post my validations that had cores disabled and I still got points.


----------



## M3TAl

Ya I went ahead and did 1 core per module. Tried just module 1 but it wouldn't clock well at all. Not nice that we can't disable the first module, only 2nd, 3rd, and 4th.

Ended up with 5.61749 GHz. Only good for 7th place. It's based on %OC from stock so it would be much easier to get higher %OC with an 8320. I would throw my fail of an 8320 in but it's not possible without draining the loop, not worth it IMO.


----------



## GroovyMotion

I got my Vortex fan, put it in...no difference, cpu still going to 80C and shutdown. I removed the H60, cleaned the cpu and put in new paste, same thing overheat! I remove the H60, put in the crappy stock AMD heatsink/fan and now cpu is as cool as ever lol.
I will have to check the warranty of the H60 I believe it's 1 year. Bummer, I thought this was great, I guess I got a premature one that got it's cord up it's throat and it's not "breathing" properly!


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like your pump is dead , i would recommend replacing it with a 240 rad personally i would steer clear of the aios and go for a h220 / 220x


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like your pump is dead , i would recommend replacing it with a 240 rad personally i would steer clear of the aios and go for a h220 / 220x


Yeah it sux it's been only 5 months since I got it! Geez at the begining I could run 4.5 no problem and now even bone stock it was dying on me!
I'll have a look at the swiftech, they are all out of stock on newegg.ca they must be popular!


----------



## Mega Man

ncix would be best bet


----------



## LinusBE

GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 3 has arrived and is installed







Had to reinstall windows because the mouse and keyboard didn't work and I don't have a ps/2 keyboard. Now let's see what this board can do.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 3 has arrived and is installed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to reinstall windows because the mouse and keyboard didn't work and I don't have a ps/2 keyboard. Now let's see what this board can do.


Same board as mine and I love it








You had issues with USB? I had the same with both windows and Ubuntu...some ports were not recognized and under windows I saw a trick, remove the USB driver and let windows re-detect it and then my USB2 external drive was working.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ncix would be best bet


Cool haven't bought anything from NCIX in years, NewEgg is much closer and ships within a day.
Not too sure about buying another water cooler, maybe I'll get the Hyper 212 EVO it's the highest rated on newegg but it seems thick and might block one RAM slot


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Same board as mine and I love it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You had issues with USB? I had the same with both windows and Ubuntu...some ports were not recognized and under windows I saw a trick, remove the USB driver and let windows re-detect it and then my USB2 external drive was working.


I could't use my mouse or keyboard, so I had to reinstall Windows







Everything works fine now







The only downside is that only 2 fan headers are controllable.


----------



## Grungle

Greetings,

Firstly, many thanks to all those who have put so much time and effort into delving into all the problems with these boards and sharing suck knowledge. I've learnt a hell of a lot from these fora.

I assembled my current PC about 12 months ago and have finally gotten around to overclocking it, so started doing some research and found this thread.
DAMN. (the thread itself is great but my OCing prospects are seeming poor at the very least).

My situation (all adjustments made manually via BIOS, monitored with CPU-Z, HWINFO64, and Core Temp) is this:

First step was all frequency and voltage parameters set to "normal" and all power management parameters disabled.
Then began by bumping Vcore to 1.45V, multiplier to achieve 4.1MHz (200.88 x 20.5), and DRAM Voltage to 1.5V (assuming these settings to be a fair starting-point for an OC).
At idle this achieves 1.464V, 4.118MHz, and 1.476V respectively.

Under load (IBT) Vcore ranged from 1.392V - 1.500V, frequencies fluctuated to 3013.7MHz, and VRAM from 1.476V - 1.488V.

All further adjustments failed to stop the core frequencies from similar or worse throttling. These fluctuations
*appear* to correspond directly to core VID drops (1.238V - 1.150V as if switched, not rising and falling gradually). My understanding was that Core VID was a constant when CPU auto-optimising was disabled?

I'm an Instrumant Engineer by trade, so am conversant more with industrial computers than PCs, but am well used to component level fault-finding/repair. Before looking into board modifications I thought I'd ask those with far more knowledge of this board than I, as I suspect the time taken doing so would far exceed the cost of a replacement.

Is my above thinking/approach wrong? Am I overlooking something?

Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Edited for spelling/syntax errors


----------



## Mega Man

rev 3s have a bios that will throttle if vrms get too hot, have you checked into that? it may be based on watts too because idk


----------



## Grungle

I've read many pages in this thread (not all, 'cause way too many) but am aware of the mosfet temp throttling issue but had thought that this was inherent to the rev 3 board.
Would another BIOS (Fa, Fb - or the Fd which I've only read of and cannot find) alleviate this issue?

Ta for the reply


----------



## mus1mus

If this computer has been installed a year ago, or at least a year old, I would of dismantle it for cleaning and usual stuff, but more importantly, I'd be looking at the VRMs for any anomalies before overclocking the chip.

There have been numerous accounts for a Warped VRM area on the PCB that will loosen the contact of the VRMs to the Heatsink. (You might wanna look at that) You could be throttling due to VRM heat.

2nd, What' BIOS revision are you into? FC was the latest as far as I am aware. In that UEFI Bios, you can't dial in Voltages for the Vcore and CPUNB except using Offsets.

RAM Voltage also is down by about 0.035 on Windows from what you set in the BIOS.. i.e, 1.65 on the Bios is 1.615 on Windows or if you need it to be at 1.5Volts, you need to give it 1.535 on the Bios.

Never experienced VID moving on my foray with the board.


----------



## Grungle

Am expecting a new graphics card and SSD in the next few days so maintenance will occur then. It's pre-maintenance checking that lead to this post (Ilive in a *very* dusty part of rural Australia, so regular clean-ups are mandatory).

Am using Fc BIOS and have no problem with 'off-setting' parameters.

Do I understand you correctly in that CPU-Z etc will read low in Windows 7? Thanks for the heads-up.

The core VID "switching" was the main question, as I'd not come across such behavior in my research (even in searching this thread). I *strongly* doubt that I've spotted something that you fellows have missed, so wondered if I'd failed to come across it in my searching or if it was dependent upon my particular configuration.

Ta for the reply


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> First step was all frequency and voltage parameters set to "normal" and all power management parameters disabled.
> Then began by bumping Vcore to 1.45V, multiplier to achieve 4.1MHz (200.88 x 20.5), and DRAM Voltage to 1.5V (assuming these settings to be a fair starting-point for an OC).
> At idle this achieves 1.464V, 4.118MHz, and 1.476V respectively.
> 
> Under load (IBT) Vcore ranged from 1.392V - 1.500V, frequencies fluctuated to 3013.7MHz, and VRAM from 1.476V - 1.488V.
> 
> All further adjustments failed to stop the core frequencies from similar or worse throttling. These fluctuations
> *appear* to correspond directly to core VID drops (1.238V - 1.150V as if switched, not rising and falling gradually). My understanding was that Core VID was a constant when CPU auto-optimising was disabled?


I think your getting your terms mixed up.

CPU VID never changes, its set from the factory. Its the stock voltage for the chip.

Vcore can change based on load, and LLC settings, and power saving features. When running IBT monitor your vcore, I personally use OCCT because it allows to to monitor just about everything in graphic form over time. Make sure your voltage on the Vcore is nice and steady under load, if it is not change your LLC setting until it is. This will allow you to rule out voltage regulation as the cause of instability. Then starting from stock settings increase your Cpu Muti a notch at a time until your computer is unstable. Once it become unstable at that speed increase your vcore, is it now stable? If it is then go back to increasing your cpu muti. Repeat this process until you reach 1.55volts. I wouldn't suggest venturing over 1.55 volts. You may be stopped first by other factors first such as temperatures. You will need to keep your core temp below 90c (for benchmark runs as 90c is thermal shut down) and under 62c for everyday use.

Also its not smart to disable the power saving features of the chip. They don't normally cause a problem with stability while overclocking. Your just creating more heat and using more power by turning them off. (cool and quiet, c1e, c6)

1.45 volts for vcore is way to high for only 4.1ghz, with that voltage you should be able to hit higher speeds. My 8320 will do 4.9ghz with 1.45 volts for example.

On your ram, the ram voltage on these boards has a small voltage drop, as your can see. You can bump the voltage up a tad to get it to the 1.5 volts your ram is rated for, but only if its needed to give it stability or if you wish to overclock it further.

Good luck.

This may help you with the rest
http://prohardver.hu/dl/cnt/2011-10/78307/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf


----------



## Grungle

Quote:


> I think your getting your terms mixed up.
> 
> CPU VID never changes, its set from the factory. Its the stock voltage for the chip.


No, I am not "getting my terms nixed up".
The first two-thirds of my original post were to indicate that I had a fair understanding of such, and to avoid these questions and the need for captures of monitoring programmes.
That obviously didn't work so here you go:



(These values reflected in Core Temp)

I am well versed in low-level OCing
May I redirect you to my original question:
Quote:


> The core VID "switching" was the main question, as I'd not come across such behavior in my research (even in searching this thread). I *strongly* doubt that I've spotted something that you fellows have missed, so wondered if I'd failed to come across it in my searching or if it was dependent upon my particular configuration.


Ta for your reply

Edited: syntax (again)


----------



## M3TAl

My VID switches because I have CnQ enabled, often switching between High Performance and Power Saver profiles. At x7 multi the VID is 0.9V and at max it's 1.35V. It hits other values at the clock states between the two as well when on Balanced.

The VID probably changes if the CPU is throttling as well, looks like your's is considering that minimum speed of 3013 MHz.


----------



## GroovyMotion

I got a reply from Corsair regarding my H60 and they will replace my unit!








Hopefully this one will last longer than 4-5 months lol


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grungle*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I think your getting your terms mixed up.
> 
> CPU VID never changes, its set from the factory. Its the stock voltage for the chip.
> 
> 
> 
> No, I am not "getting my terms nixed up".
> The first two-thirds of my original post were to indicate that I had a fair understanding of such, and to avoid these questions and the need for captures of monitoring programmes.
> That obviously didn't work so here you go:
> 
> 
> 
> (These values reflected in Core Temp)
> 
> I am well versed in low-level OCing
> May I redirect you to my original question:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> The core VID "switching" was the main question, as I'd not come across such behavior in my research (even in searching this thread). I *strongly* doubt that I've spotted something that you fellows have missed, so wondered if I'd failed to come across it in my searching or if it was dependent upon my particular configuration.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ta for your reply
> 
> Edited: syntax (again)
Click to expand...

i stand by my statement that your board is probably throttling due to the bios ( it is now built in to prevent damage to the board )


----------



## reeven

I play with some memories on FXA UD3 rev4. If i put 8gb, then put some more memory and then remove it, first kit became single channel.
If i put 2 dimms in mainboard, sometimes i must switch them, because on some position i have single not dual channel( and i put them in DUAL channel slots)
If i play with timings and errors appear in memtest i must reset bios, if not i receive errors on ANY memory i put( even on stock settings)

Example, i put 2 dimms ddr 1600, put them to 2133, tight timings, error appear, now even if i back timings to stock, i receive errors in memtest. I must reset bios.
Sometimes at boot i receive an black screen, or it take whole minutes to boot or to show bios screen.

An observation, i think that uefi stupid bios for 990fxa ud3 rev 4 is some kind of beta.....full of errors. And it has huge lag on mouse and everything.
This mainboard/bios hate PSC, Hynix bfr cfr mfr, Sammy dho cho, the only chip that does 6-6-6, 7-7-7, 8-8-8 at 1600 is Micron chip, old one, 1.8v. Even 9-9-9 is almost imposible at 1866,lol at ANY voltage.
I have Hynix BFR gold ones, they are stock at ddr 1600, not 1333 chips, on intel does 2133 at 24-8-9-8, or 24-8-8-7 at 1.7v , Memtest at least 10 hours( 5 full tests) but on this amd board it does 2133 12-13-12, lol.
Even Corsair Dominator v5.12 Hynix is crap on this board, cant do 8-8-8 1600, 9-10-9 1866.

700_700.jpg 105k .jpg file

corsair v3.20 micron is awsome.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grungle*
> 
> No, I am not "getting my terms nixed up".
> The first two-thirds of my original post were to indicate that I had a fair understanding of such, and to avoid these questions and the need for captures of monitoring programmes.
> That obviously didn't work so here you go:
> 
> 
> 
> (These values reflected in Core Temp)
> 
> I am well versed in low-level OCing
> May I redirect you to my original question:
> Ta for your reply
> 
> Edited: syntax (again)


if you want to play that card. Then my response to that is read the 1000 pages of this thread and good luck.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> I play with some memories on FXA UD3 rev4. If i put 8gb, then put some more memory and then remove it, first kit became single channel.
> If i put 2 dimms in mainboard, sometimes i must switch them, because on some position i have single not dual channel( and i put them in DUAL channel slots)
> If i play with timings and errors appear in memtest i must reset bios, if not i receive errors on ANY memory i put( even on stock settings)
> 
> Example, i put 2 dimms ddr 1600, put them to 2133, tight timings, error appear, now even if i back timings to stock, i receive errors in memtest. I must reset bios.
> Sometimes at boot i receive an black screen, or it take whole minutes to boot or to show bios screen.
> 
> An observation, i think that uefi stupid bios for 990fxa ud3 rev 4 is some kind of beta.....full of errors. And it has huge lag on mouse and everything.
> This mainboard/bios hate PSC, Hynix bfr cfr mfr, Sammy dho cho, the only chip that does 6-6-6, 7-7-7, 8-8-8 at 1600 is Micron chip, old one, 1.8v. Even 9-9-9 is almost imposible at 1866,lol at ANY voltage.
> I have Hynix BFR gold ones, they are stock at ddr 1600, not 1333 chips, on intel does 2133 at 24-8-9-8, or 24-8-8-7 at 1.7v , Memtest at least 10 hours( 5 full tests) but on this amd board it does 2133 12-13-12, lol.
> Even Corsair Dominator v5.12 Hynix is crap on this board, cant do 8-8-8 1600, 9-10-9 1866.
> 
> 700_700.jpg 105k .jpg file
> 
> corsair v3.20 micron is awsome.


Lol.. Are you even knowledgeable that people here run Over clocked memory on the board?

Lol again, do you even know what you are doing?

2400MHz ram is nothing uncommon for the board if you can take a look back at how much people here achieved..


----------



## Grungle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My VID switches because I have CnQ enabled, often switching between High Performance and Power Saver profiles. At x7 multi the VID is 0.9V and at max it's 1.35V. It hits other values at the clock states between the two as well when on Balanced.
> 
> The VID probably changes if the CPU is throttling as well, looks like your's is considering that minimum speed of 3013 MHz.


Shouldn't the core VID remain constant with power-management disabled?

Is it the BIOS throttling the cpu that is causing the core VID dropping, or is this hard-coded into the board?

Ta for the reply

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i stand by my statement that your board is probably throttling due to the bios ( it is now built in to prevent damage to the board )


Is there an alternative (that will alleviate the problem) to the Fc BIOS?
Would editing the BIOS be practical and, if so, would you know the relevent parameters to alter?

What are your thoughts on the core VID fluctuations?

Thanks for the reply

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> if you want to play that card. Then my response to that is read the 1000 pages of this thread and good luck.


I apologise if I have offended you, as that was not my intention.

You told me I was "getting my terms mixed up" re core VID fluctuation and told me that "CPU VID never changes, its set from the factory. Its the stock voltage for the chip"
I pointed out that this was not the case for me, provided proof, and redirected you to my initial query.
I then thanked you for replying.

Again, I am sorry if I have offended you.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grungle*
> 
> Shouldn't the core VID remain constant with power-management disabled?
> 
> Is it the BIOS throttling the cpu that is causing the core VID dropping


Not if it's throttling. If you have a Rev 4.0 there should be a VRM temp sensor in HWiNFO64 as well. My bet is on throttling due to VRM temps.


----------



## ebduncan

Cpu vid doesn't change.

Cpu Vcore does.

yes there is a difference.

Which is why I told you that you were mixing up your terms. CPU VID cannot change, any adjustment you do to the voltage of the CPU is referred to as Vcore.


----------



## M3TAl

But there are different VID's at different clock states... When throttling he's getting put in a different clock state so VID changes.


----------



## mus1mus

Please post BIOS screenies..

His VID changes with frequency..I'm thinking what @Metai thinks.. C-States, P-States, Windows Power Option..


----------



## Grungle

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Not if it's throttling. If you have a Rev 4.0 there should be a VRM temp sensor in HWiNFO64 as well. My bet is on throttling due to VRM temps.


Ahh, thank-you sir, that makes things a lot clearer.
So most-likely-scenario is that too great a VRM temperature is calling a lower VID, which in turn throttles the CPU.
Is this call initiated in software or hardware?
I only have the rev. 3 version, so no vrm temp monitoring for me.
A visual shows easy access to the VRMs whilst PC running so I'll have a search for my surface temp probe and take some measurements.
Do you know if this is poor design or sub-standard trannys/caps?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Cpu vid doesn't change.
> 
> Cpu Vcore does.
> 
> yes there is a difference.
> 
> Which is why I told you that you were mixing up your terms. CPU VID cannot change, any adjustment you do to the voltage of the CPU is referred to as Vcore.


Are you deliberately being abstruse?
The capture I posted (and you quoted) clearly shows cores 0 - 4 have VID's fluctuating from 1.238V - 1.150V, as I stated in my original post.

If your only input is to repetitively tell me that I'm confusing Vcore with coreVID please desist, as I've heard you twice already.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grungle*
> 
> false
> Ahh, thank-you sir, that makes things a lot clearer.
> So most-likely-scenario is that too great a VRM temperature is calling a lower VID, which in turn throttles the CPU.
> Is this call initiated in software or hardware?
> I only have the rev. 3 version, so no vrm temp monitoring for me.
> A visual shows easy access to the VRMs whilst PC running so I'll have a search for my surface temp probe and take some measurements.
> Do you know if this is poor design or sub-standard trannys/caps?


I don't know if it's hardware or software, just that the new Rev 3.0 and 4.0 now have throttling based on what we assume is VRM temps. These boards also have a UEFI BIOS from a different make.


----------



## mus1mus

I'd still recommend to check his board for any warping on the board..we have seen too many reports from users on UD3 rev 3 of warped VRM area evev when they are running stock speeds..

Or at least remove the push pin locks on the VRM sink and change them to screws..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Yupp I'd start with checking for warping. That seems to be the main cause of all the problems. Fix the warping and then secure the heatsink with a fan. Mine is still going strong with the 8350 after the work I put into it over a year ago.


----------



## reeven

Gigabyte 990fxa ud3 rev 4, and 990fxa ud5 rev3.

2 days ago i bought an WD my passport ultra 2 tb 2.5". Today when PC start, bluescreen appear with via usb3.0( this hdd is plug into via usb3.0).
Back in january i bought an wd my passport slim 1tb 2.5", same bluescreens.

If i plug/unplug these WD hdd in/from usb3.0 via, bluescreen appear every time. If i transfer 10-20gb on it, bluescreen appear.

Sometimes bluescreen is with via usb3.0( today bluescreen)

This was probably caused by the following module: viahub3.sys (ViaHub3+0x288EE)
Bugcheck code: 0xF7 (0x77FFC69752F, 0xF894C3DF5DE6, 0xFFFF076B3C20A219, 0x0)
Error: DRIVER_OVERRAN_STACK_BUFFER
file path: C:\Windows\system32\drivers\viahub3.sys
product: VIA eXtensible Host Controller driver
company: VIA Technologies, Inc.

Sometimes bluescsreens is with WD SES DRIVER on USB3.0. This driver is installed when wd slim/ultra is installed. If i disable this driver from device manager, bluescreens with WD SES driver stopped. Or if i let driver enabled but move hdd to usb2.0.
I also have some Toshiba Basic Canvio 2tb,1tb portable 2.5, those will not cause bluescreens.
I tried few via usb3.0 drivers from via site, gigabyte driver, problem is there. I talk to via, wd and gigabyte. And receive generic info like update bios, but no fix, maybe wd firmware update, maybe mainboard bios update, via firmware, driver update.
So, if you have WD .....sell them and move to Toshiba. Or move it to usb2.0... I have one plug into usb2.0..
On wd slim 1tb i receive over 40 bluescreens in two weeks, thank god we still work...

ecranalbastruvia.jpg 326k .jpg file


----------



## LinusBE

Is it normal that when I press the power button my pc starts for 1 second, turns off and then starts completely without any issues? It happens every single time.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Is it normal that when I press the power button my pc starts for 1 second, turns off and then starts completely without any issues? It happens every single time.


No, sounds like you might have a problem with your first bios, and giga's dual bios is kicking in.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Is it normal that when I press the power button my pc starts for 1 second, turns off and then starts completely without any issues? It happens every single time.


You have turned off turbo core. The board will double boot when Turbo core is switched off. Depending on your chip and FSB / MULTI hole, you can instead set the turbo core multi to match the OC your working with. This will keep the board from dual booting.

But be ware, this can and will caause problems... Like mine now will hang on restarts with this setting.


----------



## LinusBE

The settings I apply in the bios do stick after the shutdown and restart happen. I'll try and see what setting causes this.

Edit: thanks madgoat I'll try that out.

Edit2: it worked, but that caused my vcore to jump suddenly to 1.6V. I set it to 1.47 in the BIOS. Luckily I noticed it quick enough.


----------



## zila

I had that problem too. I don't remember off hand exactly which one of the settings it is but it's one of your settings in the bios that is causing that.

Make sure "Core Performance Boost" is set to auto.
Core C6 State = Disabled
HPC Mode = Disabled
APM = Disabled
Full Screen Logo Show = Enabled

Reboot and see if this doesn't straighten it out.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I had that problem too. I don't remember off hand exactly which one of the settings it is but it's one of your settings in the bios that is causing that.
> 
> Make sure "Core Performance Boost" is set to auto.
> Core C6 State = Disabled
> HPC Mode = Disabled
> APM = Disabled
> Full Screen Logo Show = Enabled
> 
> Reboot and see if this doesn't straighten it out.


When I set CPB to auto and the frequency to the same frequency as my OC the problem is fixed, but the voltage suddenly changed to 1.47V to 1.6V while in Windows. I'd rather have my pc start in 2 times than to have my voltage fluctuate that much.


----------



## zila

Set your cpu llc to high. Then adjust your voltage according. That's vdroop that's driving you crazy. You'll definitely get some vboost when it is set to high but it should not be that high.


----------



## LinusBE

It is already on high. It was not vdroop but a vboost from 1.47V to 1.6V. That's not what I want


----------



## M3TAl

Pretty ridiculous how Giga can't seem to make a half decent UEFI BIOS on AM3+. Is it this bad on FM2+? I know people say their most recent Intel stuff is good.

Still thinking about ditching Giga for my next upgrade.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I'd still recommend to check his board for any warping on the board..we have seen too many reports from users on UD3 rev 3 of
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Pretty ridiculous how Giga can't seem to make a half decent UEFI BIOS on AM3+. Is it this bad on FM2+? I know people say their most recent Intel stuff is good.
> 
> Still thinking about ditching Giga for my next upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> Buy an UD5 rev 1.1 and your problems are over
Click to expand...


----------



## zila

I understand how you feel. I have complained to Gigabyte about this and they just don't seem to be concerned about it at all just giving excuses and trying to justify their errors all the time. But the board itself is a very good piece of hardware, it's the programming of the board that sucks.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Buy an UD5 rev 1.1 and your problems are over


I don't have any problems and have a 1.1. The point still remains their UEFI is crap... And it's pretty sad.


----------



## GroovyMotion

My system does the same, I thought it was "normal". I first thought it was my PSU. Mine is no longer OC'ed since the H60 started to show issues almost 3 months ago.


----------



## MadGoat

auto on CPB with ulti set to OC and Medium LLC is the magic voltage sauce for my rev 4.0


----------



## zila

No, it's a bios setting that causes that on this board. Just tune it and with the proper chip and good cooling just take it up.


----------



## mus1mus

Try setting to a lower LLC option..

The least VBoost I have seen happens when I set LLC to Regular or Medium.. That is for the UD3 rev 3.. That is about 0.06 Volts

Extreme causes a VBoost of about 0.12 Volts.

But I'd personally take a little time knowing how the board reacts if it were me working on Giga again.. Observe how much boost was applied and try lowering the Vcore as to counter it..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

With the issues I've had with this board and their spectacularly terrible support I'll never buy another one of their products again. Really the whole experience has been awful.


----------



## Obsidience

Hey guys,

Recently purchased a UD3 Rev 4.0 and set it up on the bench with a lapped 8350 and NH-D14 for overclocking to eventually replace my M5A97 Evo & 1090T @ 4ghz. Finally got the sucker stable enough to run 10 minutes into Prime95 at 4.8Ghz when I noticed the voltage drop and clock drop to 1.4Ghz (periodically). Researched it and see that this is VRM throttling... I have a fan on the VRM module and also pulled the heatsink and applied Ceramique to make sure the heatsink was doing its job. It's definitely contacting and even with the fan it's not keeping it cool enough to prevent the throttling.

I have not read all 1000 pages in this thread but from my research I see no fixes to this problem other than trying to liquid cool the VRM modules which I'm not interested in doing.

So I'm looking at alternative boards as I expect this new build to last me many years like my existing build did and I want it rock stable for things like video encodes... Does anyone know if the UD7 exhibits the same throttling problem as the UD3? I haven't seen many complaints with the UD7 but since it's more expensive it may be that there just isn't enough people using that board. Alternatively what other motherboard would you guys recommend? I'm a big Gigabyte fan so this is a disappointment...

Thanks for your help!

Obsidience

edit: I forgot to mention that I'm not interested in SLI/Crossfire, I'm looking for a board that overclock this CPU to it's potential.


----------



## mus1mus

If you just need a solid board, UD5s.

Almost have the same features as the UD7 minus 4-way card support..

VRM on those mobos were also running cooler UD3../

And yeah, if you could live on Blue.


----------



## Obsidience

Hey mus1mus, thanks for your help!

UD5 huh? I'm seeing some posts that the VRM chips between these boards are the same but the BIOS, heatsinks and layout are definitely different.

This post here indicates that he was getting throttled to 3.4ghz: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1998037/8350-throttling-gigabyte-990fxa-ud5.html

Much better than 1.4ghz that I'm seeing now but I'd like to avoid throttling all together. Assuming the cooling on the UD5 is better, I can probably try to do what I did with my UD5 and clean and reapply ceramique and then hook up a Antec Spotcool and hope for the best but I'm worried about having another motherboard that purposely downclocks my CPU due to inferior voltage regulation.

Decisions decisions...

I notice you have an Asus Sabertooth 990 - why did you end up with that vs the Gigabyte?

Thanks,

Obs


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obsidience*
> 
> Hey mus1mus, thanks for your help!
> 
> UD5 huh? I'm seeing some posts that the VRM chips between these boards are the same but the BIOS, heatsinks and layout are definitely different.
> 
> This post here indicates that he was getting throttled to 3.4ghz: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1998037/8350-throttling-gigabyte-990fxa-ud5.html


Throttling can be due to a lot of factors other than the board. Most of them are user-related.
1. Power Saving Features, if enabled, will allow the chip to throttle to keep Power Consumption, Heat, VRM Duty Cycle, etc. to go down.. Thus downclocking.

When OC'ing, it is advised to turn off all Power Saving Features, Enable High Performance Mode, and the like to enable the chip to go Full Blast at all times albeit when the chip reaches around 85 (could be around 80. I forgot exactly) Degress Celcius on the cores where it would throttle down. Above that temp will be Thermal Shutdown. Thus lead to number 2.

2. Cooling - It has been a common approach for AMD FX Overclocking that, "If you can Cool IT, You can Clock It"
Most of the times, people people new to the chip expects more of their cooling to be adequate for the chip (specifically AIR and CLCs). Did all the research for the right cooler and stuff and end up cost-cutting somewhere. And end up short of their expectations. A Hyper 212 for example can only get you to 4.5 max on these chips. People thought and believe they could go higher with that cooler after seeing most people recommend them. But no, you need at least a Dual Tower for Air and at least 120mm CLC with good fans in push-pull to get enough headroom for a decent OC. By Decent I meant around 4.7 upwards for that's where the chip starts to be more performance worthy.

3. OC Skills, Chip Quality (Silicon Lottery), Time, and Patience are required to play with these chips. These chips need a touch more LOVE for them to give users the performance they deserve.









4. For the Board, you gotta know which components are working hard. Which means heating up and needs to be cooled down. VRM will need airflow.

BIOS needs a little time to be familiar with.

Voltages needs to be observed. How they react, and act.

And yes, you gotta know which revision is proven to be Good.
Quote:


> Much better than 1.4ghz that I'm seeing now but I'd like to avoid throttling all together. Assuming the cooling on the UD5 is better, I can probably try to do what I did with my UD5 and clean and reapply ceramique and then hook up a Antec Spotcool and hope for the best but I'm worried about having another motherboard that purposely downclocks my CPU due to inferior voltage regulation.
> 
> Decisions decisions...


UD5s have one of best VRM Coolers for the 990FX Mobos, as I heard. You can put an 80mm fan on the heatsink just to give it some airflow. That being said, I heard from the other guys that UD5s don't need them at all. So take it as a grain of salt from me since I don't have the actual experience on the board.

Quote:


> I notice you have an Asus Sabertooth 990 - why did you end up with that vs the Gigabyte?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Obs


I started with a UD3 Rev 3 (the most problematic of the Gigas) which ended up dead for some reason I have no idea of. No burns or anything spectacular when that happened.

I ended up buying a Saberkitty after consulting most of the guys on the Vishera Thread. The build is good, Vdroop is the least according to, one of the most respected users here, @MegaMan. And @Red1776 has reviewed it along with the UD7, and the CHVF with the same chip and it gave him the highest stable OC.

Honestly though, I could have picked the UD7 for the Quad card support. But it was not of my priority when I bought the board. It is now.. lol

This is quite long now.. Anyway, the usual recommendations would be the UD5s, UD7s, CHVFZ, and the SaberKitty. Pick either one of them for the peace of mind. UD5 is the cheapest.
















Just hit up the guys here if you have any issues. A lot of people would be willing to help you.









EDIT: BY THE WAY

For your current issues, I'd like to ask for some screenshots while doing stress testing and having HWInfo64 Monitoring your temps.

Also might need some Bios Screenies of your settings.

I'm having a hunch something must be happening there aside from VRM throttling..


----------



## Obsidience

Thanks again Mus, I've been overclocking since my first Cyrix 586 so I'm not a newbie but I don't really keep up with the latest and greatest until I actually upgrade which is once every few years or so. Your recommendations are spot on, I'm pretty sure I'm set with the overclocking bit and the wealth of knowledge on this thread - the problem is the VRM. 8350 @ 4.8ghz on air appears to be pretty aggressive from the stats I'm seeing but I expected to get to the point where I saw the max temp of the CPU before a fault and I'm not able to get there because of this stupid VRM issue. . Clocks are steady at 4.8 - about 8-10 minutes into P95 when the temps start to really rise the CPU will downclock to 1.4ghz for about 5 seconds while the temps drop dramatically. NB/RM heatsink too hot to touch. My usual practice is to green light a build after it runs prime overnight and then run memtest afterwards, since I have 32GB now I give it a few nights to get a thorough test of the memory.

Thanks for the board suggestions and the info on the reviews, I think I need to just return this motherboard and pay the 15% restocking fee and get one of your recommendations. Will update this thread with the outcome ;-)

Obs


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obsidience*
> 
> Thanks again Mus, I've been overclocking since my first Cyrix 586 so I'm not a newbie but I don't really keep up with the latest and greatest until I actually upgrade which is once every few years or so. Your recommendations are spot on, I'm pretty sure I'm set with the overclocking bit and the wealth of knowledge on this thread - the problem is the VRM. 8350 @ 4.8ghz on air appears to be pretty aggressive from the stats I'm seeing but I expected to get to the point where I saw the max temp of the CPU before a fault and I'm not able to get there because of this stupid VRM issue. . Clocks are steady at 4.8 - about 8-10 minutes into P95 when the temps start to really rise the CPU will downclock to 1.4ghz for about 5 seconds while the temps drop dramatically. NB/RM heatsink too hot to touch. My usual practice is to green light a build after it runs prime overnight and then run memtest afterwards, since I have 32GB now I give it a few nights to get a thorough test of the memory.
> 
> Thanks for the board suggestions and the info on the reviews, I think I need to just return this motherboard and pay the 15% restocking fee and get one of your recommendations. Will update this thread with the outcome ;-)
> 
> Obs


By the way, I haven't mentioned, you can try slapping a fan focusing airflow into the backside of the mobo near the socket area and the VRMs.. 90mm fans would do.. pick a high static pressure ones.. You could easily drop 10 degrees or so on the socket and the VRMs from what I am seing on mine.

Another worthy mod for the VRM is a backplate.. As what is done by @ebduncan's Backplate Mod.. http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/9530#post_21990671


----------



## Obsidience

I'll give that a shot tomorrow. I was testing on my desk with a 12" high velocity fan (on low setting because it's loud) pointed at that general vicinity. Putting a fan directly on that heatsink might make a big difference - will let you know.

Once I have the new build overclocked and stable I'll be putting it in a Rosewill Thor, it has pretty good airflow.

Obs


----------



## LinusBE

Already asked my question in the Vishera owners club, but maybe someone here can also help me.

When I raise my clock speed to 4.4 Ghz and above (200x22), the FSB speed changes under load from 200 Mhz to 205 Mhz, causing my cpu clock speed to raise by 0.1 Ghz. I tried raising NB core, NB voltage, NB/PCIe/PLL voltage, HT Link voltage, CPU PLL voltage, but nothing helps. This is making it hard to stabilize my overclock because the clock speed changes a lot under load.


----------



## Chargeit

Yo, what's the word on using the 990FXA-UD5 rev3 with linux? I have it, a fx8320, 8gb ram, and a case sitting around. I'm thinking of using them for a htpc/steam streaming system. I never really looked into linux, so I'm hoping I won't have any compatibility issues. I looked into it, and for under $200 I can easily put one together if using linux.


----------



## M3TAl

Someone else will have to answer that. I've got 0 experience with Linux.

How's that 4770k btw?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Someone else will have to answer that. I've got 0 experience with Linux.
> 
> How's that 4770k btw?


Yea, me too. I can go the windows/750 ti route, though that would cost more. The benefit of that would be that it would be a good little gaming system even without steam streaming.

The 4770k was worth the money, at least for the games I play. I'm not going to say that everything is a huge difference, but, everything I have plays perfectly now.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yo, what's the word on using the 990FXA-UD5 rev3 with linux? I have it, a fx8320, 8gb ram, and a case sitting around. I'm thinking of using them for a htpc/steam streaming system. I never really looked into linux, so I'm hoping I won't have any compatibility issues. I looked into it, and for under $200 I can easily put one together if using linux.


I dual boot win7 and Ubuntu and now I rarely boot windows. It works great if you run a distro that is recent, in my case it's Ubuntu 14.04 and everything works like a charm. I had issues with the USB2 devices not working on USB3 ports but I turned USB legacy (or something like that) in the BIOS and it now works.

I don't know if you have Linux experience but more and more games run on Linux and the list is growing by the day!


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, no linux experience.

I could go windows / cheap gpu, since the gpu won't matter when streaming. It would just be nice to have the option to use the system as a proper gaming rig if needed, which is why I was thinking windows / 750 ti if I did go windows.

I don't know. I'm just trying to figure out some way to put these parts I have laying around to use, and a steam streaming / htpc sounds like the way to go. Even though a fx 8320 would be overkill for that purpose.

***FYI, "Sniper Elite V2" is free today on steam.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, no linux experience.
> 
> I could go windows / cheap gpu, since the gpu won't matter when streaming. It would just be nice to have the option to use the system as a proper gaming rig if needed, which is why I was thinking windows / 750 ti if I did go windows.
> 
> I don't know. I'm just trying to figure out some way to put these parts I have laying around to use, and a steam streaming / htpc sounds like the way to go. Even though a fx 8320 would be overkill for that purpose.
> 
> ***FYI, "Sniper Elite V2" is free today on steam.


Linux uses a lot less resources than windows so you don't need an overkill setup.

Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Chargeit

NP.


----------



## Obsidience

Hey Mus1,

I had a 70mm AMD fan that fit above the VRM heatsink and below the Noctua. I just ran a Prime95 and the VRM throttling issue did not occur. I'm not prime stable (a core conked out at around 68deg) yet but it looks like a fan directly on the VRM portion of the heatsink resolved the trottling issue. At least for now. I' have to ramp up the voltage a bit or drop the clock down. May be into next week before I get it stable as I'm on vacation soon.

Thanks again,

Obs


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obsidience*
> 
> Hey Mus1,
> 
> I had a 70mm AMD fan that fit above the VRM heatsink and below the Noctua. I just ran a Prime95 and the VRM throttling issue did not occur. I'm not prime stable (a core conked out at around 68deg) yet but it looks like a fan directly on the VRM portion of the heatsink resolved the trottling issue. At least for now. I' have to ramp up the voltage a bit or drop the clock down. May be into next week before I get it stable as I'm on vacation soon.
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Obs


Glad to hear that bro..

That really points you to VRM Throttling I suppose.. Add a fan at the back to further cool things down if you plan on keeping the board..


----------



## Obsidience

Yeah, I think I'm going to keep it. I upped the voltage to 1.55 at 4.8ghz and got like 30 minutes maxing at 77c but hit the threshold so right now I'm at 4.7ghz, been running for about an hour and a half maxing out at 70c. Gonna let it prime over night and call it a stable overclock.

The only problem is the little AMD fan gets pretty pretty loud when it heats up. Hopefully the spotcool will work just as good and quieter









Thanks again for your help.

Obs


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Obsidience*
> 
> Yeah, I think I'm going to keep it. I upped the voltage to 1.55 at 4.8ghz and got like 30 minutes maxing at 77c but hit the threshold so right now I'm at 4.7ghz, been running for about an hour and a half maxing out at 70c. Gonna let it prime over night and call it a stable overclock.
> 
> The only problem is the little AMD fan gets pretty pretty loud when it heats up. Hopefully the spotcool will work just as good and quieter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for your help.
> 
> Obs


I hear you there on the Stock fan







.. You can add some profiles for it in the Bios though..









If your case can accommodate another fan at the back of the mobo, you can still improve on your socket temps..


----------



## Obsidience

So I got my spotcool yesterday and tried that and a few other fans. What I found out was that if the fan is not directly on top of the VRM heatsink then throttling would occur after it warms up. The spotcool was too wide. I had two 70mm fans that would sort-of fit under my Noctua NH-D14, any size bigger would overlap beyond the size of the board. The two 70mm fans were stock AMD fans, one was wider than the other and the thinner one is the one that was able to keep the VRM chipset cooler though it was louder. The problem is that there's no room there and the larger fan is right near the bottom fins of the Noctua causing a wind-tunnel sound effect and not cooling as well because of less airflow.

At this point I'm debating:

Get another board
Perhaps get a closed loop water system which would allow more room near the VRM section. I'm paranoid about a potential leaks and always had good luck with high quality heat-pipes getting decent overclocks. This machine is a workstation for software development as well as gaming so I need it to function 24/7.
Sticking with the small stock fan and hoping that it isn't too loud or rattle due to the inability to secure it to anything.

*LinusBE*

I noticed last night my frequency ranging from 4.69 and 4.71ghz (0.02ghz deviation). This was not affecting stability. I have HPC on, if you have it off try turning that on, I've read that it helps stabilize the clocks but take that with a grain of salt as I'm new with this board.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yo, what's the word on using the 990FXA-UD5 rev3 with linux? I have it, a fx8320, 8gb ram, and a case sitting around. I'm thinking of using them for a htpc/steam streaming system. I never really looked into linux, so I'm hoping I won't have any compatibility issues. I looked into it, and for under $200 I can easily put one together if using linux.


I've been using Linux for the past 1 1/2 years with my 990fxa-ud5 rev.3.0. Not a single problem I can think of. Um.... let me think. Crossfire under Linux was interesting. I had to turn off IOMMU support in the bios but then my usb keyboard and mouse wouldn't respond. Fixed that with a simple iommu=soft in grub. That's all I can think of.


----------



## rakesh27

Guys...

On a different subject i really need your help...

Ok here i start, ive got a 990FXA-UD7 rev 1.0, perfect board, had it from day one not one problem.

At present i have 2 x Startech PEXSATA34 connected to the pci-e x8 slots, these cards are sata3/esata raid card which im running in JBOD,,,

1st card has 4 internal drives connected and the 2nd card has only 2 internal drives connected, my problem is i cannot boot into windows 7 or Windows 8.1

I have bios F10, the cards do work independtly of each other, ive even set the primary and secondary slots to x16 and x8 x8, both cards get detected and drives in bios but once it goes through its post the cursor just sits there flashing and windows doesnt load.

Ive emailed Startech and they are looking into, any ideas guys, why PC doesnt post,,, and before you say spec, its not that i have a awesome system....

Pleas help !

Thanks


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *z3r0_k00l75*
> 
> I've been using Linux for the past 1 1/2 years with my 990fxa-ud5 rev.3.0. Not a single problem I can think of. Um.... let me think. Crossfire under Linux was interesting. I had to turn off IOMMU support in the bios but then my usb keyboard and mouse wouldn't respond. Fixed that with a simple iommu=soft in grub. That's all I can think of.


Nice point, I will add it to grub thx for the tip!


----------



## Chargeit

Well, fate would have it that my laptop crapped out again today. This time it won't even attempt to post, nothing.

Long story short, I'm making the system I was talking about. Will try Linux, if that doesn't work out will get windows. Went with a cheap as dirt HD5450, since I wont' be gaming on it. Might move to a 750 ti or something later.

I went with a Kingston 120gb SSD, since I won't be using it for storage, and I'll likely toss in my laptop HDD for extra storage.

I'm going to use my old dell monitor for now, but, I'm getting a 50" LED TV to hang over my computer desk, for console like gaming later. If the steam streaming works well, I'll use that as the monitor. If not, I'll use one of two monitors I have hooked up to my gaming rig. See how that works out.

Looking at,

FX 8320
990FXA-UD5
CX500
212 evo
HD5450
8gb 1600 ram
120GB SSD
Linux OS for now

This will be a general usage / steam streaming system. Over kill in the CPU/mobo, but lol, that's what I already have. =D I'll most likely toss in a 750 ti, and install windows 7 later. Wanted to keep it cheap for now, and I got the parts needed to complete it for $190, $150 after "MIR".


----------



## GroovyMotion

That's going to be a decent setup for streaming.
I'd like to try the 212 EVO but since Corsair is sending me a replacement unit for my H60 I'll stick with that for now.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> That's going to be a decent setup for streaming.
> I'd like to try the 212 EVO but since Corsair is sending me a replacement unit for my H60 I'll stick with that for now.


Yea, I can't bring myself to use the stock cooler, even for such a system. A aftermarket cooler was a must.







Won't be overclocking, but it is what it is.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I can't bring myself to use the stock cooler, even for such a system. A aftermarket cooler was a must.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Won't be overclocking, but it is what it is.


Funny thing about mine is that it is very cool even with the stock cooler, shows how much the H60 was suffering but of course I am runing stock.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Funny thing about mine is that it is very cool even with the stock cooler, shows how much the H60 was suffering but of course I am runing stock.


The FX 6300 even oc'ed runs cool in my ol'ladys system. I have it set up at 4.2 (I didn't push it at all), and it stays sub 40c (35c normal) in her games. This damned 8320 just runs hot as hell compared to it. After messing with them both, I'd take a 6300 over a 8320 because of lower power usage/heat gen.

I run this 4770k at stock now. I did have it @ 4.2 for over a week before it suddenly became unstable. I set it to stock, and never looked back since I don't need extra performance. I will say that I got the crap draw on this CPU, since it is a horrible OC'er. Even assumed oc settings, like this has to work settings proved unstable. I was tempted to return it, but everything runs so well I don't see the need. I'll likely have moved to a new CPU/mobo long before I'd really need a oc on it.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Well, fate would have it that my laptop crapped out again today. This time it won't even attempt to post, nothing.
> 
> Long story short, I'm making the system I was talking about. Will try Linux, if that doesn't work out will get windows. Went with a cheap as dirt HD5450, since I wont' be gaming on it. Might move to a 750 ti or something later.
> 
> I went with a Kingston 120gb SSD, since I won't be using it for storage, and I'll likely toss in my laptop HDD for extra storage.
> 
> I'm going to use my old dell monitor for now, but, I'm getting a 50" LED TV to hang over my computer desk, for console like gaming later. If the steam streaming works well, I'll use that as the monitor. If not, I'll use one of two monitors I have hooked up to my gaming rig. See how that works out.
> 
> Looking at,
> 
> FX 8320
> 990FXA-UD5
> CX500
> 212 evo
> HD5450
> 8gb 1600 ram
> 120GB SSD
> Linux OS for now
> 
> This will be a general usage / steam streaming system. Over kill in the CPU/mobo, but lol, that's what I already have. =D I'll most likely toss in a 750 ti, and install windows 7 later. Wanted to keep it cheap for now, and I got the parts needed to complete it for $190, $150 after "MIR".


Using the 8320 system as the client or host stream system?

I tried that steam home streaming out last week just for fun. Ran fine with client pc (x4 955 with 5770). Only problem was input lag. Think it's either the crappy wireless keyboard or the TV itself just has some serious input lag. It's even noticeable moving the mouse around on the desktop.

Besides the input lag, probably something specific to my setup, it worked really well.


----------



## Chargeit

The 8320 would be the client. I'd stream from my i7/780.

I tried it out on two systems, the host system (gaming rig) is wired, and the two client systems were wireless. It seemed to work flawless when using my laptop in the same room as the wireless router, but on the office PC down the hall, it keep refreshing.

I'll have both systems wired when I have the final set up.

Since my laptop is now down, I'll have both computers in this room. Like I had mentioned, I'm getting a 50" LED to hang above my computer desk, and will put a sofa on the other side of the room. If the streaming works well, then I'll use the 50" for my 8320 system, and just stream to it. Otherwise I'll use one of my current gaming rig monitors for the 8320, and just hook the 50" directly to my gaming rig.

having that laptop die on me today altered my plans. I had planed on setting up this system in my living room, and streaming to it. Now that my laptop is out of action (like done, I pulled hdd/ram, and trashed it) I'll have this system in the same room as my gaming rig.

I'll see how it all works out. If the streaming works flawless wired, then I'll go with that. Otherwise steam steaming won't be a factor.


----------



## Chargeit

Oh, I really hope that in the future they put out some really cheap part that can used as a client for steam streaming. I see no reason other then greed that such a device couldn't be sold for $100 or less. If steam really wants to get into the living room, they have to seriously consider such a device. I don't picture my console friends making a $800+ gaming rig, and a 400 - $500 client system... Just isn't happening. Unless such a device is made, steam streaming is only exciting to us PC junkies that already have the hardware laying around.


----------



## M3TAl

Wifi streaming requires a very good signal and high data rate. Probably bare minimum 300mbps, 600mbps+ preferred. Wifi drives me crazy, if it were up to me I would just run 100ft+ ethernet cable everywhere but unfortunately some others like to complain about that


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Wifi streaming requires a very good signal and high data rate. Probably bare minimum 300mbps, 600mbps+ preferred. Wifi drives me crazy, if it were up to me I would just run 100ft+ ethernet cable everywhere but unfortunately some others like to complain about that


Yea, it's suggested to at least use "AC". I did it off of wireless N, 150mbps. I was able to play borderlands 2 fine in the same room as the router on my laptop.

Lol, I cut a small hole in the bottom corner of my computer rooms wall, and ran a 50' cat 6 Ethernet cord from here, to my living room for my PS3... How I was able to get my ol'lady to go a long with that one is beyond me. She's very understanding, and I'm very good at "BS'ing" my way into things... It was that, or me ripping out some dry wall to properly run some lines.

The cord was fairly neat, until my cats ripped all of my cord clips from the walls. Now it's all hanging there, with cat teeth marks imprinted along it.


----------



## rakesh27

Guys,

No offence to anyone here I posted a problem I have and not one person would suggest how to fix the problem or why it's happening.

It's like you all wrapped up in your own conversation ignoring anyone that ask for help...

I thought this forum was setup for people who need help, I guess not.

I'm a geniune gigabyte owner the UD7, but you people rather not help anyone, just talk about overclocking and performance...

Again no offense to anyone, pointless setting up these official forums when you don't help people....


----------



## lepidus

Hi guys,

I read a lot of pages of this thread, cause I am one of the unfortunate owners of 990fxa-ud3 rev 3.0.
At this point I pretty much gave up on overclocking it, as mine vdroops even on stock clock. Now I am looking to buy a replacement mobo, but I am not sure which one to buy.

My option are not many, as am3+ mobo offers on my country are very limited. Thinking about 990FXA-UD5 (Rev 3.0), ASRock 990FX Extreme 9 or ASRock 990FX Killer, all of them about the same price. Never liked Asrock very much, but well, brand loyalty left me here. Any help?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lepidus*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I read a lot of pages of this thread, cause I am one of the unfortunate owners of 990fxa-ud3 rev 3.0.
> At this point I pretty much gave up on overclocking it, as mine vdroops even on stock clock. Now I am looking to buy a replacement mobo, but I am not sure which one to buy.
> 
> My option are not many, as am3+ mobo offers on my country are very limited. Thinking about 990FXA-UD5 (Rev 3.0), ASRock 990FX Extreme 9 or ASRock 990FX Killer, all of them about the same price. Never liked Asrock very much, but well, brand loyalty left me here. Any help?


When setting up your OC, are you using LLC properly?

I haven't messed with OC'ing on these boards in some months, but, I remember it worked out much better to set a higher llc (not max), and lower base voltage.

What LLC does is attempt to keep your CPU on enough voltage. It cuts out a lot of the Vdrop in my experience when used properly.


----------



## SpykeZ

How does the UEFI bios calculate the voltages when overclocking? I go into the section and change the values of the voltages but when I go back to the screen to see where it's set at, it's still showing the default. Do I have to save the changes first or what?


----------



## lepidus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> When setting up your OC, are you using LLC properly?
> 
> I haven't messed with OC'ing on these boards in some months, but, I remember it worked out much better to set a higher llc (not max), and lower base voltage.
> 
> What LLC does is attempt to keep your CPU on enough voltage. It cuts out a lot of the Vdrop in my experience when used properly.


Ye, I actually managed to get a "stable" 4.2 putting LLC to extreme, lowering vcore and activating that HPC (or something liek this), still, not that stable as sometimes it would drop voltages to .9 and multiplier to x7. Way better then stock, where it would vdrop after 5 minutes and continue to do so every 3 seconds.
Also, to achieve that """stable""" 4.2, I had to reverse my top fans to blow air directly on the VRM, which gave me ok results, but affected my 7970 crossfire temps.
That mobo revison is probably the most ******ed piece of hardware I ever seen, VRM would get so hot that I could barely touch it, despite it having that heatsink and 8 phases.

I cant fight this anymore, need a new one. Is rev 3.0 of UD5 as bad as UD3 was? I saw some good reviews of that assrock extreme9, it looks ok to me (12+2 phases, that heatpipe between heatsinks), but I have no knowlegde about how to judge the VRM specs.

BTW, my UD3 is warped as some pics I saw on this thread. Is the heat that makes it warp? Or is it been warped that causes the heat problem on VRM?


----------



## Chargeit

I wouldn't go "LLC Extreme", maybe high. I don't remember the exact setting I used off hand, it wasn't Extreme though. I had what I'd consider a bad experience with "HPC", I'd be careful with it, especially when using "LLC Extreme".

I have a 990FXA-UD5 rev 3. Out of the box it throttled even at stock settings. It took a bios update for me to fix that issue. After updating to the most recent bios at the time (and disabling "APM"), I had no throttling issues with the board.

I say if you're going to spend the money, go with the "ASUS Sabertooth". They're considered one of the best AM3+ boards last I checked. Now, in my honest opinion, it would be a better idea to just save up some cash, and see what the CPU/mobo landscape looks like in a few months. AM3+ is fairly long in the tooth, and it kind of sucks to buy a expensive mobo in its twilight if you ask me.

I moved from a 970a-ud3 that throttled my CPU to hell, to that 990FXA-UD5 which didn't throttle my cpu, and to be honest I don't remember any type of noticeable performance increase. Least nothing worth mentioning.

I'm not sure about warping, but if your heatsinks aren't making proper VRM contact, it would make sense that you'd be throttled.

*BTW, did you update your bios to whatever is the latest version?


----------



## lepidus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I wouldn't go "LLC Extreme", maybe high. I don't remember the exact setting I used off hand, it wasn't Extreme though. I had what I'd consider a bad experience with "HPC", I'd be careful with it, especially when using "LLC Extreme".
> 
> I have a 990FXA-UD5 rev 3. Out of the box it throttled even at stock settings. It took a bios update for me to fix that issue. After updating to the most recent bios at the time (and disabling "APM"), I had no throttling issues with the board.
> 
> I say if you're going to spend the money, go with the "ASUS Sabertooth". They're considered one of the best AM3+ boards last I checked. Now, in my honest opinion, it would be a better idea to just save up some cash, and see what the CPU/mobo landscape looks like in a few months. AM3+ is fairly long in the tooth, and it kind of sucks to buy a expensive mobo in its twilight if you ask me.
> 
> I moved from a 970a-ud3 that throttled my CPU to hell, to that 990FXA-UD5 which didn't throttle my cpu, and to be honest I don't remember any type of noticeable performance increase. Least nothing worth mentioning.
> 
> I'm not sure about warping, but if your heatsinks aren't making proper VRM contact, it would make sense that you'd be throttled.
> 
> *BTW, did you update your bios to whatever is the latest version?


Well, good to know at least there is an APM setting on 990FX-ud5, bacause UD3 doesnt. Is UD5 bios like ud3, where you can only set +0.025 -0.025?

About sabertooth or formula, I wish i could. Here on my country, its like $200 more expensive then UD5/Extreme9.


----------



## Chargeit

The stock bios that came with mine didn't have the option to disable "APM". I had to update the bios to get that option.

Yea, you set voltage the same way.

*200 damn, it's maybe a $10 - $20 difference here for the sabertooth compared to the UD5, least when I was looking at them.

**With a bios update, the UD5 I have ended up being a good board, that gave me no troubles. Without that update, the board sucks because of the bios.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> The FX 6300 even oc'ed runs cool in my ol'ladys system. I have it set up at 4.2 (I didn't push it at all), and it stays sub 40c (35c normal) in her games. This damned 8320 just runs hot as hell compared to it. After messing with them both, I'd take a 6300 over a 8320 because of lower power usage/heat gen.
> 
> I run this 4770k at stock now. I did have it @ 4.2 for over a week before it suddenly became unstable. I set it to stock, and never looked back since I don't need extra performance. I will say that I got the crap draw on this CPU, since it is a horrible OC'er. Even assumed oc settings, like this has to work settings proved unstable. I was tempted to return it, but everything runs so well I don't see the need. I'll likely have moved to a new CPU/mobo long before I'd really need a oc on it.


Yeah I was going to suggest you the 6300 vs the 8320 for the steam box. Right now it runs at 20C with the stock cooler lol. I remember when the H60 was new I was running 4.5 and it wasnot going above 51 if I recall correctly


----------



## Chargeit

Well, I already have the 8320, which is why I'm using it. Otherwise I'd go with a APU or a i3, though I still don't like the idea of a dual core in a modern system, even if it's more then enough to meet my needs.

The GPU I got was $30, $10 after "MIR". I'll replace it sooner or later, but for now, it was a no brainer. Once I replace it, it will be good to have as a back up GPU.










I just can't wait to get everything fully set up, with a 50" hanging on the wall, and a nice sofa to chill on. I was going to try and bring my computer to the living room through steam streaming, but now I'll bring my living room to my computer room. Told my ol'lady I'd buy us a new sofa, and move our current one into here.







That's called diplomacy.


----------



## GroovyMotion

Yeah since you already have the cpu it's great and it's a steal for the video card








That setup would be nice to have!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Yeah since you already have the cpu it's great and it's a steal for the video card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That setup would be nice to have!


Yep, no need to buy a whole new CPU/mobo if I already have them laying around. It's good knowing that I'll be putting them to use, since sitting here staring at my old components kicks me in the frugal

The HD 5450 isn't going to win any prizes for performance, but, for my intended purpose it should be more then enough. At $10 with the "MIR", it might as well be free.

Sure will be! Hell, I'll never want to leave my computer room again... Now about that fridge and piss pot.


----------



## Xamyr

Hey everyone!

I'm an owner of the GA-990FXA-UD5 for nearly 2 years now, and since the start i ahd some troubles with it. The first problem was at the very first day i put my computer together and i leave the computer running when i left my house, when i came back the computer was off, and obviously the first thing i tought of was that it hybernated or went into sleep mode, i try pressing the power button, but nothing happends, so i disconnected the plug from the power supply and put it back in after 4-5 seconds(there is still some electricity after you plug it out), and then the computer turned on no problem, except it gave me a the message the windows didn't shut down properly. i then edned up turning off all the hybernation and sleep modes, so the problem was solved.

After few months i decided that i want to install linux on my system, but everytime i tried, it gave me things like this ( http://screenshooter.net/100006948/vdjptbc and http://screenshooter.net/100006948/awxpeeq ), i tried every single linux operating system and was unable to install them.
Now i'm trying to install it again after updating to the newest bios that is available and there is another problem......
I can go to further installation, but linux won't detect my hard discs nor my SSD, i looked up the issue, tried changing from AHCI to IDE, but no success, then digged in a bit more and found another solution that didn't work, which was to.

1. Boot Ubuntu from a Live CD or Live USB
2. Open a Terminal (Applications > Accessories > Terminal) and type sudo su
3. Type fdisk -l (note which device is your SATA drive)
4. Type dmraid -E -r /dev/sdX
5. (Replacing X with your actual device found in step 3)
6. Confirm that yes, you wish to remove the dmraid information
7. Return to the desktop and proceed to run the Ubuntu Installer

So i'd like to ask the owners of the GA-990FXA if they hadd any similar problems, and if the fixed them somehow.

Thank you for reading this


----------



## Chargeit

Odd...

Check out these results. I finally got around to benching my two HDD, and the seagate blows my "WD black" out of the water... The WD black has more on it, but it's less then half full.

I noticed when playing "Borderlands 2" the other day that textures were loading slower then when I was just using a SSD/seagate.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Odd...
> 
> Check out these results. I finally got around to benching my two HDD, and the seagate blows my "WD black" out of the water... The WD black has more on it, but it's less then half full.
> 
> I noticed when playing "Borderlands 2" the other day that textures were loading slower then when I was just using a SSD/seagate.


Is that the hybrid seagates?


----------



## Chargeit

No, just a $65 one.

*I did use a hybrid seagate in my ol'ladys system... Works great, very fast once it learns your usage.


----------



## M3TAl

That's slower then my WD black from 5+ years ago, and my current WD Blues.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's slower then my WD black from 5+ years ago, and my current WD Blues.


Just did my test on my blue as well. 160MBps+ on Passmark.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's slower then my WD black from 5+ years ago, and my current WD Blues.


Yea, I put in a tick with Western Digital. Somethings up with Neweggs "WD blacks". The first one I got was "DOA".


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

What program is that you are benching the drives with?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> What program is that you are benching the drives with?


Samsung Magic.

The reason I benched it, was because I noticed decreased performance compared to using my seagate for games. I had thought I was just being paranoid, but borderlands 2 textures loading slow called it out.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I have 2 WD Black 640's in RAID0 I'll run this and see what it comes up with and share my results


----------



## mus1mus

you could confirm if the Black was actually connected properly and was indeed connected to a SATA 3 (6Gbps) port. Getting half of the Seagates seems weird. They should be pretty close..

Fact is, my blue has better Sequential Writes than my Crucial M500.







160s vs 120s..


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well my Black 640's seem to have about 4x the performance of your single. I'd expect double but not 4x so something is definitely amiss. I should add that my 640's are SATA II not SATA 3.



However it seems my SSD has half the IOPS it should. I wonder what is going on there. Though read/write speed is satisfactory.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> you could confirm if the Black was actually connected properly and was indeed connected to a SATA 3 (6Gbps) port. Getting half of the Seagates seems weird. They should be pretty close..
> 
> Fact is, my blue has better Sequential Writes than my Crucial M500.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 160s vs 120s..


Yea, it's connected correctly, and to sata 3 (6Gbps).

I can try a different sata cable, but I seriously doubt that's the issue.

I think it's defective. Considering the first one I got was "DOA", and similar complaints in the reviews, it wouldn't surprise me.

I've already contacted WD about it, and will see what they say. I'm hoping I can just switch it out.


----------



## mus1mus

seems like Seagate's has higher IOPS.. with low sequentials

Seagate



WD RED



As a comparison, Intel Raid 0;



This is work PC by the way..


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> seems like Seagate's has higher IOPS.. with low sequentials


Seagate has many higher things







(Yes, i know now there will be the usual flood of people who will say "mine runs perfectly fine")





http://blog.backblaze.com/2014/01/21/what-hard-drive-should-i-buy/


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Seagate has many higher things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Yes, i know now there will be the usual flood of people who will say "mine runs perfectly fine")
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://blog.backblaze.com/2014/01/21/what-hard-drive-should-i-buy/


You got me laughing there mate


----------



## hurricane28

Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 53,3GB used so lots of space left.



WD black 1TB almost full.



WD black 320GB only 70GB used for music.



My WD blacks scores are nothing to write home about lol maybe i need to defrag them again.


----------



## Xamyr

Can someone please help me with this issue?


----------



## Xamyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xamyr*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> I'm an owner of the GA-990FXA-UD5 for nearly 2 years now, and since the start i ahd some troubles with it. The first problem was at the very first day i put my computer together and i leave the computer running when i left my house, when i came back the computer was off, and obviously the first thing i tought of was that it hybernated or went into sleep mode, i try pressing the power button, but nothing happends, so i disconnected the plug from the power supply and put it back in after 4-5 seconds(there is still some electricity after you plug it out), and then the computer turned on no problem, except it gave me a the message the windows didn't shut down properly. i then edned up turning off all the hybernation and sleep modes, so the problem was solved.
> 
> After few months i decided that i want to install linux on my system, but everytime i tried, it gave me things like this ( http://screenshooter.net/100006948/vdjptbc and http://screenshooter.net/100006948/awxpeeq ), i tried every single linux operating system and was unable to install them.
> Now i'm trying to install it again after updating to the newest bios that is available and there is another problem......
> I can go to further installation, but linux won't detect my hard discs nor my SSD, i looked up the issue, tried changing from AHCI to IDE, but no success, then digged in a bit more and found another solution that didn't work, which was to.
> 
> 1. Boot Ubuntu from a Live CD or Live USB
> 2. Open a Terminal (Applications > Accessories > Terminal) and type sudo su
> 3. Type fdisk -l (note which device is your SATA drive)
> 4. Type dmraid -E -r /dev/sdX
> 5. (Replacing X with your actual device found in step 3)
> 6. Confirm that yes, you wish to remove the dmraid information
> 7. Return to the desktop and proceed to run the Ubuntu Installer
> 
> So i'd like to ask the owners of the GA-990FXA if they hadd any similar problems, and if the fixed them somehow.
> 
> Thank you for reading this


Can someone please help me with this issue?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Seagate has many higher things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Yes, i know now there will be the usual flood of people who will say "mine runs perfectly fine")


Seagate 500gb in my PS3... no issues

Seagate 1 TB hybrid in my ol'ladys gaming rig... No issues (great drive btw)

Seagate 1 TB in my gaming system since being built... No issues

Western Digital "Black" 1 TB... First one "DOA"

Western Digital "Black" 1 TB... second one seriously under performing

*Score in my home...

Seagate 3

Western Digital 0*

I don't know man, and I've used seagates in the past without complaint. Was funny though.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xamyr*
> 
> Can someone please help me with this issue?


Wish I knew man. Not many of us have Linux experience. I was going to use linux on the "General use / Steam streaming rig" in my sig, but I chickened out last night and ordered "windows 7 / dvd drive".

There are two people that I know of in this thread that use linux. From what I gathered, they didn't have any issues with it.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Seagate has many higher things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Yes, i know now there will be the usual flood of people who will say "mine runs perfectly fine")
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://blog.backblaze.com/2014/01/21/what-hard-drive-should-i-buy/


This is funny actually. Hitachi must have really stepped up their game after their whole "deathstar" thing. Those drives crapped out by the dozens lol

I used to use Maxtor exclusively. Still have 2 in service from like 8 years ago that work just as well as the day I bought them. Tough little buggers! Since Maxtor no longer exists I've been using WD with good results.


----------



## Chargeit

Honestly, I never heard of "BackBlaze" until seeing that chart.

I'm going to assume the results are from "industrial" usage, and not typical of the average user experience, therefore, useless to anyone not using their drives as a workhorse.

I call "BS".









*I'm willing to bet 3 years of their usage equals 300 years of my usage.


----------



## zila

I wish I had better luck with my Seagate purchases. 3 out of 3 of my 1TB Seagate drives all died. I just tossed em out and went back to WDs for now. Some of us just have better luck than others with those.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I wish I had better luck with my Seagate purchases. 3 out of 3 of my 1TB Seagate drives all died. I just tossed em out and went back to WDs for now. Some of us just have better luck than others with those.


I had bad luck with Hitachi and like Ozzy said, they crapped out by the dozen and i had to send my notebook 4 times back to Asus to get an replacement.

Since than i never used anything else but WD black series and they never went wrong on me. But if some people have trouble with WD, Seagate or Hitachi that would not say that the brand is worthless per se.


----------



## mus1mus

I just can't justify me self saying something good about the brand I use when other people went through hell on them..









Not loyal to any brand me self.. So I don't care if some of us say something very good about some brands. As a consumer I think we need to just be open on these bad reports. It happened to them, it could happen to us.. Being informed is better than being a brand fan boy..









No disrespect to anyone..


----------



## Chargeit

It's funny how random it can be. Me, Seagate has bee flawless, where this WD black is proving to be trouble. Some it's Seagate that's crap, some others.

Every brand has lemons, and sometimes them suckers come in groups.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I just can't justify me self saying something good about the brand I use when other people went through hell on them..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not loyal to any brand me self.. So I don't care if some of us say something very good about some brands. As a consumer I think we need to just be open on these bad reports. It happened to them, it could happen to us.. Being informed is better than being a brand fan boy..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No disrespect to anyone..


I know I don't "Fan boy". The only one who wins there are the manufacturers who then can slack, and put out lackluster products, with little to no improvements over earlier models *cough, cough, intel.

Heck, I've got...

Intel / AMD cpu
Nvidia / AMD gpu
Corsair / G.skill / Team Vulcan ram (Team Vulcan died, but was quickly replaced)
Samsung / Kingston / Seagate / WD hdd/sdd

I'm all over the board. Though I do favor Corsair for some things, it's because I've had luck with them (and their crap looks good)... However, I'd be more then happy to call out the BS with their products to anyone willing to listen.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> seems like Seagate's has higher IOPS.. with low sequentials
> 
> Seagate
> 
> 
> 
> WD RED
> 
> 
> 
> As a comparison, Intel Raid 0;
> 
> 
> 
> This is work PC by the way..


I wonder why your scores are higher on your red drive than on my black drive, how full is that drive if i may ask?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I wonder why your scores are higher on your red drive than on my black drive, how full is that drive if i may ask?


I believe that is a 3TB red.. With may be around 30% space utilized. It's not often used as that is a file storage drive for important files.

I also suspect the software mate..









And yeah, that doesnt have file stored and deleted randomly I suppose.. From new, got a quick format, saved with some files, and that's where it stayed most of the time..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I believe that is a 3TB red.. With may be around 30% space utilized. It's not often used as that is a file storage drive for important files.
> 
> I also suspect the software mate..


Ah i see, and yes the software is not very accurate because sometimes i only get 400Mb/s and the next i get 1700MB/sec writes with my Samsung 840 EVO 250GB lol


----------



## Chargeit

Well, I ran this "WD black" many times, and always come up with the same general results.

I also noticed the lack of performance, which is why I tested it.

Same with the seagate, same general results.

You can blame the software, I'm calling foul on the product.


----------



## M3TAl

That backblaze "study" is pretty ridiculous IMO. So many things wrong with it. http://www.tweaktown.com/articles/6028/dispelling-backblaze-s-hdd-reliability-myth-the-real-story-covered/index.html
Quote:


> The data from Backblaze should not influence a purchasing decision by any consumer, regardless of what type of drive they are purchasing. The innumerable variables, and lack of documentation, ensures the results are unreliable. Even for the winners, the results aren't good; the failure rates are exponentially higher than those observed in the real-world. One should question whether these companies could survive financially with the massive warranty return rates in real-world scenarios.
> 
> We covered some of the most obvious holes in the methodology behind the Backblaze comparisons, but there are many more, such as sample size. With varying numbers of drives for each model, it is possible that some bad batches may have made their way into the sample pool, thus further skewing the numbers.
> 
> Read more at http://www.tweaktown.com/articles/6028/dispelling-backblaze-s-hdd-reliability-myth-the-real-story-covered/index5.html


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That backblaze "study" is pretty ridiculous IMO. So many things wrong with it. http://www.tweaktown.com/articles/6028/dispelling-backblaze-s-hdd-reliability-myth-the-real-story-covered/index.html


I don't trust it.

People take studies/surveys too serious. Usually there is a agenda behind them, and they are formed to find the results they want.

I mean hell, the cable company did a "survey" that concluded people didn't want "faster internet access"... Yea, right, cause we like slow ass net... I bet the survey asked if people wanted to pay some insane price for faster net access... They're bull.

*I still believe the "WD Black" are good hdd, it's just that I've had two lemons so far. Bad luck, and I hope Western Digital makes it right.


----------



## M3TAl

We want prioritized network traffic too. Yeah, okay Verizon, Comcast, and AT&T


----------



## GroovyMotion

I have a WD Blue (3 years old) and a WD Black (6 months old) no issues.
Seagate 1Tb USB drive (5 years old) no issues still performs flawlessly, only thing is it's got low transfer rates.
I too had maxtors a lot in the past and no issues.
I did have a major HD failure some 15 years ago, don't remember the brand/model but it was a low-end one.

I guess these stats can vary a lot.
But my next HD is definitely a Samsung SSD EVO or Pro


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xamyr*
> 
> Can someone please help me with this issue?


You seem to have a lot of issues with your setup!
Did you try a LiveCD of Ubuntu 14.04?
But if you had issues with windows as well it might be difficult to see what is the problem.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> We want prioritized network traffic too. Yeah, okay Verizon, Comcast, and AT&T


Yea, get traffic tossed to the slow/overloaded server. It's all crap.

Yea, and "Time Warner Cable" merged with comcast... The future of net access in my area's looking down. Good thing we just live here because of work. Having no family ties here means that sooner or later I'll be somewhere else... Preferably somewhere with generous "Medical Marijuana" laws... For depression, honest!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Well, I ran this "WD black" many times, and always come up with the same general results.
> 
> I also noticed the lack of performance, which is why I tested it.
> 
> Same with the seagate, same general results.
> 
> You can blame the software, I'm calling foul on the product.


Can you show the score you can get from your 840?


----------



## Xamyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> You seem to have a lot of issues with your setup!
> Did you try a LiveCD of Ubuntu 14.04?
> But if you had issues with windows as well it might be difficult to see what is the problem.


I did try the livecd of ubuntu, i also tried other linux systems and no results. The windows problem is gone now after bios updates.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, it's at the top. I posted all 3 of my drives in the pic I put up.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Samsung 840 EVO 250GB 53,3GB used so lots of space left.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> WD black 1TB almost full.
> 
> 
> 
> WD black 320GB only 70GB used for music.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My WD blacks scores are nothing to write home about lol maybe i need to defrag them again.


Insanely fast SSD that EVO 250GB of yours. But I suspect that score mate.. A little as fast as my score on RAID 0 Intels is devious.

You put it to perspective, it's almost saturating the 6GBPs port bandwith.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, it's at the top. I posted all 3 of my drives in the pic I put up.


That 120GB EVO seems to pull off a fair score.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, no complaints about the SSD results. They aren't super charged like ol'boy, but where they are supposed to be.

I'm still waiting on a reply from "WD" about the lackluster test results. I really want to see what they say or suggest. Right now, I'm kind of feeling like I got the bone on that hdd. Hope they just replace it, and 3rd time really is the charm.

*Oh, and I've got that "Kingston V300" coming in tomorrow... That I didn't realize had 2 types floating around, one that performs like the review copies (bait and switch), and another one that is crap, and has near hdd performance... One of those little facts I didn't find out until after I ordered it, and it was shipped. I did find out that made in "Taiwan" is good, "China" is bad with the "Kingston V300" SSD... I already know which I'm going to get.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, no complaints about the SSD results. They aren't super charged like ol'boy, but where they are supposed to be.
> 
> I'm still waiting on a reply from "WD" about the lackluster test results. I really want to see what they say or suggest. Right now, I'm kind of feeling like I got the bone on that hdd. Hope they just replace it, and 3rd time really is the charm.


lightning just strikes twice..

3rd would be fine







hoping..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Insanely fast SSD that EVO 250GB of yours. But I suspect that score mate.. A little as fast as my score on RAID 0 Intels is devious.
> 
> You put it to perspective, it's almost saturating the 6GBPs port bandwith.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That 120GB EVO seems to pull off a fair score.


Yes impressive scores indeed, it has rapid mode so it uses 1GB of my system memory because the tlc nand is not fast enough they claim.

I like this SSD and i feel its a tad faster than my old 120GB version because of the more IOPS and higher transfer rates. I do doubt that these scores will be noticeable in everyday usage because no matter what i do i am always bottlenecked by the 6GBPs port bandwidth witch it connected to.


----------



## hurricane28

My Samsung EVO



WD black 1TB



WD black 320GB


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes impressive scores indeed, it has rapid mode so it uses 1GB of my system memory because the tlc nand is not fast enough they claim.
> 
> I like this SSD and i feel its a tad faster than my old 120GB version because of the more IOPS and higher transfer rates. I do doubt that these scores will be noticeable in everyday usage because no matter what i do i am always bottlenecked by the 6GBPs port bandwidth witch it connected to.


I see..

I just thought that the software was doing some magic on the scores..







But indeed it was a fast SSD..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I see..
> 
> I just thought that the software was doing some magic on the scores..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But indeed it was a fast SSD..


Well its called magician software but it certainly does not do magic on my WB black's









This is just an benchmark score and benchmarks scores do not always translate in to real time performance. Also the scores are fluctuating a lot for example, if i would run the test again i would get much different results with my EVO compare to my OCZ agility 3, they were most of the time always the same.

This feels a bit faster but if i could get my hands on an OCZ drive i would sell this one and get the OCZ vector witch is faster overall and more reliable.


----------



## M3TAl

I thought OCZ drives are/were plagued with reliability issues?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I thought OCZ drives are/were plagued with reliability issues?


The first sandforce controllers were faulty yes and it took me 2 drive within one year to figure that one out myself









Now with the newer controllers witch they actually make themselves the problems seems to be gone according in several reviews.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6363/ocz-vector-review-256gb


----------



## Chargeit

Ah, so it isn't "Voodoo". I forgot about the mode that uses ram to boost the speed of the SSD. When I got mine, I had 8gb and saw no point in using it. Now that I have 16gb, I might have to give it a try. Though like you mentioned, I doubt I'd notice much difference in day to day use.


----------



## hurricane28

Lol no its not voodoo









Its called rapid mode in software magician. I don't know if you see an huge difference but it depends on what you are doing obviously.

I have 8Gb of RAM and i never run out of it accept when i use Adobe programs than you never seems to have enough RAM


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I saw the feature, and forgot out about it. I'll try it later.

On other news,

I got the stuff in to make my "Steam steaming / General usage PC"... And the Kingston SSD I got is made in "Taiwan". From what I read, that means it should be one of the ones that performs as advertised and reviewed. Seems like I got lucky there.

Tomorrow the Dvd drive, and copy of windows 7 comes in, but I can put it together today... My cat 6 line got shipped "DHL", so I expect that some time next year







I'll just use a cat 5 until that comes in, no big deal.

*I love the little box this "HD5450" came in. Will most likely replace that. Was going to go with a 750 ti, since it's so low power, but now thinking I'll get a "R9 270", put it in my ol'ladys system, and use the "HD 7850" in hers for this system. Something like that. The GPU upgrade is for later, and not critical for my main intended functions.

**I think I was the happiest anyone has ever been to see "Made in Taiwan" on a product.


----------



## Chargeit

System is built, still waiting on my copy of windows 7, dvd drive, and cat 6 line. I still have windows 7 on a usb, so I could install it off that, but I don't have a free Ethernet cord long enough to reach where my system is. Think I'm just going to wait, though it's killing me not knowing if everything will work out.

Was nice how quick it was building this rig. I didn't get fancy with wire management, and was done in 2 hours.

Hell, worst one so far was when I switched cases... That took all damned day since I don't have that great of working space for building computers. I had crap all over my living room / kitchen, fending off my cats and dog the whole time.


----------



## Obsidience

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xamyr*
> 
> Can someone please help me with this issue?


The power-on issues sounds like an old-style "cold boot" problem I've had before with other AMD motherboards. The issue was due to faulty RAM. You can try loosening the timings are swapping out the sticks of memory.

Also I recommend running memtest x86 for a while depending on the amount of memory of you have.

Obs


----------



## GroovyMotion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I saw the feature, and forgot out about it. I'll try it later.
> 
> On other news,
> 
> I got the stuff in to make my "Steam steaming / General usage PC"... And the Kingston SSD I got is made in "Taiwan". From what I read, that means it should be one of the ones that performs as advertised and reviewed. Seems like I got lucky there.
> 
> Tomorrow the Dvd drive, and copy of windows 7 comes in, but I can put it together today... My cat 6 line got shipped "DHL", so I expect that some time next year
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll just use a cat 5 until that comes in, no big deal.
> 
> *I love the little box this "HD5450" came in. Will most likely replace that. Was going to go with a 750 ti, since it's so low power, but now thinking I'll get a "R9 270", put it in my ol'ladys system, and use the "HD 7850" in hers for this system. Something like that. The GPU upgrade is for later, and not critical for my main intended functions.
> 
> **I think I was the happiest anyone has ever been to see "Made in Taiwan" on a product.


Nice!
I am actually getting an R9 270X can't wait to see how it performs...should kick some serious butt compared to my GT640!















Btw, what software do you use for HD benchmarking?

Oh I just got Civ V and The Americas for a big 8.23$ on steam


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GroovyMotion*
> 
> Nice!
> I am actually getting an R9 270X can't wait to see how it performs...should kick some serious butt compared to my GT640!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, what software do you use for HD benchmarking?
> 
> Oh I just got Civ V and The Americas for a big 8.23$ on steam


Yea, that GPU will be a massive improvement.









Civ V kicks butt man. I never played the other one.

I used "Samsung Magic".

*This HD 5450 idles at 52c.... Needless to say, it's passively cooled. Might add back in one of them side fans.









**I have no resolve... I ran wires across my room, and have things all rigged up... Installed windows off the USB. Guess I'm not waiting until the rest of my stuff comes in tomorrow. ^^


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> **I have no resolve... I ran wires across my room, and have things all rigged up... Installed windows off the USB. Guess I'm not waiting until the rest of my stuff comes in tomorrow. ^^


Like a true enthusiast


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Like a true enthusiast


lmao.

*I didn't screen shot it, but my 4 year old laptop 5400 RPM hdd out scores my WD Black... Still waiting for response from their tech support.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> seems like Seagate's has higher IOPS.. with low sequentials
> 
> 
> 
> Seagate has many higher things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Yes, i know now there will be the usual flood of people who will say "mine runs perfectly fine")
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://blog.backblaze.com/2014/01/21/what-hard-drive-should-i-buy/
Click to expand...

not that i am going to spend the time to try and find it, but i saw that review and then shortly after saw several others that not only proved it to be bogus but also showed proof.

besides the fact they would not be # 1 hdd manufacture if that was the case !


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not that i am going to spend the time to try and find it, but i saw that review and then shortly after saw several others that not only proved it to be bogus but also showed proof.
> 
> besides the fact they would not be # 1 hdd manufacture if that was the case !


Well, it's easier to find fault reports in the product than satisfaction approvals..

And it could also be that the more production output means greater number of faults found but does not really mean their percentage to be that high..


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Well, it's easier to find fault reports in the product than satisfaction approvals..
> 
> And it could also be that the more production output means greater number of faults found but does not really mean their percentage to be that high..


It's bogus man... Especially for consumer grade usage...

"It's also important to note that Backblaze is *using the drives* in an *environment* that sees *far more input and output activity than the average desktop or laptop computer* would produce; the drives are *continuously in use* in what is an *enterprise-class environment.*"

"*Topping the list* for reliability was Hitachi's 3TB Deskstar 7K3000 (HDS723030ALA640) with a 0.9 percent failure rate and an *average lifetime of about 2.1 years*."

There's no telling how much else stinks about it... The use they are putting on them, most likely represents decades of our use.


----------



## Chargeit

Hey, I got around to try out "Rapid" with my evo. Results...



Things on speed.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hey, I got around to try out "Rapid" with my evo. Results...
> 
> 
> 
> Things on speed.


Nice score bud







i had higher read and write speeds but your IOPS are higher.

I noticed that the Samsung magician software is not very accurate because when i did the ATTO test i get very different results.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Nice score bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had higher read and write speeds but your IOPS are higher.
> 
> I noticed that the Samsung magician software is not very accurate because when i did the ATTO test i get very different results.


Yea, I seriously doubt that "200503' result. Still, I do notice a difference in system response. Feels just like the system I just made, with a fresh install of windows.

Kind of wishing I'd of forked up the extra cash on this new system for a Samsung SSD now (even though this kingston is doing great). Though to be honest, this system is kicking butt also. I can't wait until I can get a proper GPU in it.

Got to love them SSD man. I would love to get a nice fat 500gb + one, but I can't bring myself to spend that kind of money, knowing the prices are falling so quickly.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I seriously doubt that "200503' result. Still, I do notice a difference in system response. Feels just like the system I just made, with a fresh install of windows.
> 
> Kind of wishing I'd of forked up the extra cash on this new system for a Samsung SSD now (even though this kingston is doing great). Though to be honest, this system is kicking butt also. I can't wait until I can get a proper GPU in it.
> 
> Got to love them SSD man. I would love to get a nice fat 500gb + one, but I can't bring myself to spend that kind of money, knowing the prices are falling so quickly.


Yeah well, we never know for sure i guess and to be honest who cares? I mean, it does what i want from it and its blazing fast so who cares about benchmark scores anyway.

Its nice to have high benchmark scores because you can have some bragging rights but in normal usage you never notice. I do notice an little improvement over my 120GB version witch i sold to my parents and that is that windows feels a little snappier than before it maybe sounds crazy but i have the feel for those kind of things.

500GB would be too much for me, i am happy with my 250GB version and certainly for the price i bought it for


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, still nice to have the massive numbers for some extra e-peen.









I'd like to have a larger ssd to install all my games on (2tb+). ATM, I use my SSD for OS/programs, that WD black (Still waiting on a wd response about it) for games, and the Seagate for data. It would be nice to have anything that I like loading quicker on a SSD. The data can stay on the hdd, unless SSD become so cheap that hdd are pointless... Even then, it's good to have data backed up on a hdd if you ask me.

I thought about getting a 250gb SSD (for my gaming rig), but since I've already got this 120gb I don't think it's worth the trouble of reinstalling the OS and everything.

I'm surprised you sold your 120gb SSD, I'm sure you could of figured out some interesting stuff to do with it. I'd like to see how one would work out being dedicated to temp files / indexing / virtual ram. Things like that. I wouldn't buy a SSD for it, but a older one would be perfect for it.


----------



## DeadlyDNA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakesh27*
> 
> Guys...
> 
> On a different subject i really need your help...
> 
> Ok here i start, ive got a 990FXA-UD7 rev 1.0, perfect board, had it from day one not one problem.
> 
> At present i have 2 x Startech PEXSATA34 connected to the pci-e x8 slots, these cards are sata3/esata raid card which im running in JBOD,,,
> 
> 1st card has 4 internal drives connected and the 2nd card has only 2 internal drives connected, my problem is i cannot boot into windows 7 or Windows 8.1
> 
> I have bios F10, the cards do work independtly of each other, ive even set the primary and secondary slots to x16 and x8 x8, both cards get detected and drives in bios but once it goes through its post the cursor just sits there flashing and windows doesnt load.
> 
> Ive emailed Startech and they are looking into, any ideas guys, why PC doesnt post,,, and before you say spec, its not that i have a awesome system....
> 
> Pleas help !
> 
> Thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakesh27*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> No offence to anyone here I posted a problem I have and not one person would suggest how to fix the problem or why it's happening.
> 
> It's like you all wrapped up in your own conversation ignoring anyone that ask for help...
> 
> I thought this forum was setup for people who need help, I guess not.
> 
> I'm a geniune gigabyte owner the UD7, but you people rather not help anyone, just talk about overclocking and performance...
> 
> Again no offense to anyone, pointless setting up these official forums when you don't help people....


I wish i could help you but this looks like an unusual setup. I've found if you have a hardware config that's way out of the ordinary it's hard to get help on it. Most people are running somewhat standard setups so they cannot help really.

I believe a flashing cursor is something i've seen when having boot issues. Can you give more details about your setup. Maybe Check the boot mode in BIOS - UEFI only / Legacy and UEFI / Legacy Only. ??
Wish i knew more to help


----------



## M3TAl

Ya... no idea on that one.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, still nice to have the massive numbers for some extra e-peen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd like to have a larger ssd to install all my games on (2tb+). ATM, I use my SSD for OS/programs, that WD black (Still waiting on a wd response about it) for games, and the Seagate for data. It would be nice to have anything that I like loading quicker on a SSD. The data can stay on the hdd, unless SSD become so cheap that hdd are pointless... Even then, it's good to have data backed up on a hdd if you ask me.
> 
> I thought about getting a 250gb SSD (for my gaming rig), but since I've already got this 120gb I don't think it's worth the trouble of reinstalling the OS and everything.
> 
> I'm surprised you sold your 120gb SSD, I'm sure you could of figured out some interesting stuff to do with it. I'd like to see how one would work out being dedicated to temp files / indexing / virtual ram. Things like that. I wouldn't buy a SSD for it, but a older one would be perfect for it.


lol yeah i totally agree









Well i sold it because my parents have an very slow notebook and it took ages to start so i said i have an solution and so sold the thing to them and installed it, it has a nice place now









Also a reason for me is that i always had my 120GB version almost at 80% full so the performance degrades rapidly and the lifetime of the SSD degrades as well if you almost have no spare room left.

Maybe i get another SSD when they get much cheaper to do some testing but for now my WD blacks suit me well enough for my needs


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> lol yeah i totally agree
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well i sold it because my parents have an very slow notebook and it took ages to start so i said i have an solution and so sold the thing to them and installed it, it has a nice place now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also a reason for me is that i always had my 120GB version almost at 80% full so the performance degrades rapidly and the lifetime of the SSD degrades as well if you almost have no spare room left.
> 
> Maybe i get another SSD when they get much cheaper to do some testing but for now my WD blacks suit me well enough for my needs


Yea, I bet they love it.

Ah, I don't have much installed on mine. OS / programs. I still have 78gb free, and that's with "Over provisioning" activated.

Same. I did put a 120gb kingston in this rig I just made. Works out great, but doesn't have access to the goodies that the Samsung does. Also tossed in my laptops old 300gb hdd for extra space.

Oh, I just realized how affordable the R9 270x have become. I'm going to order one later tonight for my "General use / Steam streaming" rig.







Should be a nice gaming rig in its own right now. I'm stoked about that. Have my Intel/Nvidia gaming system, and a AMD/AMD system. Was going to put it in my ol'ladys system, and switch out for the HD 7850, but she said she's cool with using it. If she needs more gpu later, I'll do it.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I bet they love it.
> 
> Ah, I don't have much installed on mine. OS / programs. I still have 78gb free, and that's with "Over provisioning" activated.
> 
> Same. I did put a 120gb kingston in this rig I just made. Works out great, but doesn't have access to the goodies that the Samsung does. Also tossed in my laptops old 300gb hdd for extra space.
> 
> Oh, I just realized how affordable the R9 270x have become. I'm going to order one later tonight for my "General use / Steam streaming" rig.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should be a nice gaming rig in its own right now. I'm stoked about that. Have my Intel/Nvidia gaming system, and a AMD/AMD system. Was going to put it in my ol'ladys system, and switch out for the HD 7850, but she said she's cool with using it. If she needs more gpu later, I'll do it.


Well yeah, first they could drink a cup of coffee before it was done starting and now they can't even reach the kitchen and its done so quite a change there









some games are pretty big so if i installed 2 or more there is simply not enough room to spare for me, i just like some overkill as well and if i want to do something on my SSD like premiere pro or music programs or whatever i want to do it without uninstalling games etc before i can do it.

I have 320GB WD black, 1TB WD black and my 250GB SSD so i have plenty of space to work with, only with Windows i did need a bigger one.

Yeah i was looking at a new GPU as well and Ive seen the prices dropped for AMD as for Nvidia as well but still a little pricey for me because i would like to have the GTX 780 or the 780 ti and those are not yet in my reach. I favor Nvidia over AMD in graphics don't know why but i just like Nvidia cards.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, systems with SSD start quick. No more waiting around. Worth the money without a doubt. Even the hybrid I put in my ol'ladys system boots fast. It isn't as fast as a pure SSD, but it works perfect for how she uses her system.

I've got a ton of games, so I don't even bother installing any of them on the SSD. I also play them so randomly that I don't have one or another that I favor.

All those hdd start stacking up. I think our total in house space is a little over 8tb. It seems like a lot, but that's across 6 computers and my PS3. ^^

I love my GTX 780. Of course you can do better, but I have no complaints. Yea, Nvidia seems to get the best range of support, but, I tend not to buy games when they first come out. By the time I get to them, both Nvidia and AMD should have good driver support. It also makes sense to do AMD/AMD, since like I mentioned, my main rig is now Intel/Nvidia. Lets not forget that the R9 270x's are starting at something like $170 right now. Hard deal to beat if you ask me.


----------



## Chargeit

OK, I'm kind of split between two R9 270x.

I'm looking that Asus DCUii. It comes in at $180 with a code. I'm not overly impressed with the fact that the cooler doesn't fully cover the bottom of the card. It makes it look like it wasn't designed for the task. Still, I've got a Asus DCUii OC 780, and it's been a good card, not counting my first one being defective.

The other one is the PowerColor PCS+. It's $189, comes with two free games, has a back plate, and from what I've seen has good professional reviews. It also is capable of keeping its boost clock, has memory which is factory overclocked, and rated for higher then the factory OC. I also think the card looks good. My HD 7850 is a PowerColor, no issues with it.

Any suggestions? I'd like to keep it in that price range, $180 - $200. This isn't going to be my main system, and might not see that much gaming use. I thought about one of the R9 270's, but they are the same price as the lower priced R9 270x. Might as well spend a few more for the better card. I know the MSI are supposed to be good, but once again, it isn't going to be my main system, and would see most of its use when friends are over and I want to let them get in some PC action.


----------



## M3TAl

I know you don't like used but personally I would go for a 7870 XT used (Tahiti LE, 1536 shaders). Most will do 1100-1150 on stock voltage, 1200 or more with some more voltage.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I know you don't like used but personally I would go for a 7870 XT used (Tahiti LE, 1536 shaders). Most will do 1100-1150 on stock voltage, 1200 or more with some more voltage.


Yea, it just isn't worth the chance. I've never bought used and had it work out. Also, you never know what the person before you was doing with it. Get the damned thing and the sob had it mining 24/7, before deciding to submerge it in oil or some crap.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, systems with SSD start quick. No more waiting around. Worth the money without a doubt. Even the hybrid I put in my ol'ladys system boots fast. It isn't as fast as a pure SSD, but it works perfect for how she uses her system.
> 
> I've got a ton of games, so I don't even bother installing any of them on the SSD. I also play them so randomly that I don't have one or another that I favor.
> 
> All those hdd start stacking up. I think our total in house space is a little over 8tb. It seems like a lot, but that's across 6 computers and my PS3. ^^
> 
> I love my GTX 780. Of course you can do better, but I have no complaints. Yea, Nvidia seems to get the best range of support, but, I tend not to buy games when they first come out. By the time I get to them, both Nvidia and AMD should have good driver support. It also makes sense to do AMD/AMD, since like I mentioned, my main rig is now Intel/Nvidia. Lets not forget that the R9 270x's are starting at something like $170 right now. Hard deal to beat if you ask me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> OK, I'm kind of split between two R9 270x.
> 
> I'm looking that Asus DCUii. It comes in at $180 with a code. I'm not overly impressed with the fact that the cooler doesn't fully cover the bottom of the card. It makes it look like it wasn't designed for the task. Still, I've got a Asus DCUii OC 780, and it's been a good card, not counting my first one being defective.
> 
> The other one is the PowerColor PCS+. It's $189, comes with two free games, has a back plate, and from what I've seen has good professional reviews. It also is capable of keeping its boost clock, has memory which is factory overclocked, and rated for higher then the factory OC. I also think the card looks good. My HD 7850 is a PowerColor, no issues with it.
> 
> Any suggestions? I'd like to keep it in that price range, $180 - $200. This isn't going to be my main system, and might not see that much gaming use. I thought about one of the R9 270's, but they are the same price as the lower priced R9 270x. Might as well spend a few more for the better card. I know the MSI are supposed to be good, but once again, it isn't going to be my main system, and would see most of its use when friends are over and I want to let them get in some PC action.


Yeah that is my main thing i like about them, you don't have to wait anymore.

I like to install my games on a SSD because they load much quicker and is some cases it can give some FPS extra. i only game at 1080P so if i want to play all games at max i minimum need an 770 or even an 780. I read nothing about trouble on the Nvidia site about their drivers, i have no problems at all and the new driver works like a charm for me and i gained some frames in COD ghosts and BF4.

Mainly i thing they got problems because they game at an higher resolution and they simply run out of memory, even with 1080P you notice difference between an 2 or a 4GB card. I like AMD CPU's because they are cheap and run quite fast but i do not like their GPU's for some odd reason because its like comparing Intel with AMD, Intel is walking in the park and AMD is running behind because it cannot keep up. For example, the new R9 290X is an amazingly fast card and can keep up with the 780ti but its the same story with AMD/Intel because you need to set it to uber mode to keep up with the 780 ti and the Nvidia card is just walking and not even overclocked. That and the AMD card has 512 bit and the 780 ti has 384 i am not bashing on AMD but i am only saying


----------



## Chargeit

I wouldn't say my Nvidia experience has been flawless, but after having a Intel/Nvidia rig, I will say that I'm going to stick to that format for my main system unless things change.

My first 780 was defective, not Nvidia's fault, but still worth note for something so costly. Nvidia ShadowPlay basically molested my SSD despite being pointed towards my hdd for everything including temp files. It wrote almost 8TB of data to my Samsung quick across two test runs. Redirecting your windows temp files is supposed to stop that, but, there wasn't warning of this and the in app settings lead you to believe you're able to control where they write in program.

At first I wasn't overly impressed with the 780, and to be honest it took moving to the i7-4770k to take proper advantage of it. With my FX 8320, I was basically running games at the same settings as my HD 7850 for smooth game play. Going with the i7 fixed this, and now I can play all of my games smoothly at settings I consider proper for the level of GPU I have.

I do have a soft spot for AMD though, and really like the idea of having a Intel/Nvidia, and AMD/AMD rig.

FYI, there are games which are supposed to be CPU intensive that run equally well on both AMD and Intel/Nvidia rigs. Guild Wars 2 is a good example. It plays the about same on both my expensive Intel/Nvidia rig, and my ol'ladys budget AMD rig. My rigs settings are a little higher, but not that much if I want to keep it the same level of smoothness on both rigs. I went in and lowered some settings after seeing just how well it played on her system.

Hell, MineCraft is another one that I expected to blow up with Intel yet it runs about as well using Intel or AMD cpu. I haven't modded it, and to be honest don't play it much. I know the game catches slack about running on a toaster, but you go set the settings to max and run around the world. You will hit spots that majorly drop your FPS because of the world loading and things... It will p'you off if you're a smooth freak. **I dont' play the game much, bought it because I had to see what the fuss was about. It's a great game, I put about 40 hours into it. I wish I had it when I was young and could of gotten into it. **

Some games though, just never felt like they played right. "Rage" is a good example. Before moving fully to Intel/Nvidia I considered the game unplayable, and the frame timings were horrible. Now, the game is buttery smooth even at max settings. There are other games that gave me results like this, though I'm not going to name them all here.

Anyway, I'm really happy I'm able to run both type of systems now and I can't wait to get the R9 270x in.









*I went with the HIS R9 270X btw. It was only $180, and came with 2 free games. Still waiting on the code for them though. Not sure what's up with that.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yeah that is my main thing i like about them, you don't have to wait anymore.
> 
> I like to install my games on a SSD because they load much quicker and is some cases it can give some FPS extra. i only game at 1080P so if i want to play all games at max i minimum need an 770 or even an 780. I read nothing about trouble on the Nvidia site about their drivers, i have no problems at all and the new driver works like a charm for me and i gained some frames in COD ghosts and BF4.
> 
> Mainly i thing they got problems because they game at an higher resolution and they simply run out of memory, even with 1080P you notice difference between an 2 or a 4GB card. I like AMD CPU's because they are cheap and run quite fast but i do not like their GPU's for some odd reason because its like comparing Intel with AMD, Intel is walking in the park and AMD is running behind because it cannot keep up. For example, the new R9 290X is an amazingly fast card and can keep up with the 780ti but its the same story with AMD/Intel because you need to set it to uber mode to keep up with the 780 ti and the Nvidia card is just walking and not even overclocked. That and the AMD card has 512 bit and the 780 ti has 384 i am not bashing on AMD but i am only saying


In some benches, true.. But don't forget another thing. And perhaps where the 290 and 290x shine.. pRICe!!!

I'd be laughing at your 780ti TBH if I can get even at most, 10 fps down your max and yet costs 100-200 $ less.

Lol


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> In some benches, true.. But don't forget another thing. And perhaps where the 290 and 290x shine.. pRICe!!!
> 
> I'd be laughing at your 780ti TBH if I can get even at most, 10 fps down your max and yet costs 100-200 $ less.
> 
> Lol


LOL yeah but it was suppose to be the ''titan killer'' witch is clearly not, it is more comparable to the 780 than towards the titan. And when AMD is working hard to get a nice card Nvidia is picking their nose because they already have their card so when AMD came with the R9 290X they get presented by the 780 ti from Nvidia. Like it or not Nvidia is a head of the game, they have bulks and bulks of money.

Its like AMD vs Intel, Intel CPU's have a much better performance per core than AMD and literately Intel does not have to do a thing because they are a head of AMD for ages now and also have bulks and bulks of money so they can afford proper engineers compare to AMD engineers.

for example, they have the FX 9590 witch is an hand picked 8350 but selling it as a new CPU and its waaaayy overpriced. They knew its not going to sell so they dropped the prices, but still 100 euro's more for the same CPU with is handpicked?! you must be bonkers to buy that thing (no offense to the people who did) but i am only saying


----------



## DeadlyDNA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> LOL yeah but it was suppose to be the ''titan killer'' witch is clearly not, it is more comparable to the 780 than towards the titan. And when AMD is working hard to get a nice card Nvidia is picking their nose because they already have their card so when AMD came with the R9 290X they get presented by the 780 ti from Nvidia. Like it or not Nvidia is a head of the game, they have bulks and bulks of money.
> 
> Its like AMD vs Intel, Intel CPU's have a much better performance per core than AMD and literately Intel does not have to do a thing because they are a head of AMD for ages now and also have bulks and bulks of money so they can afford proper engineers compare to AMD engineers.
> 
> for example, they have the FX 9590 witch is an hand picked 8350 but selling it as a new CPU and its waaaayy overpriced. They knew its not going to sell so they dropped the prices, but still 100 euro's more for the same CPU with is handpicked?! you must be bonkers to buy that thing (no offense to the people who did) but i am only saying


I am quite happy with my 9590, and it's been on sale a few times. I am also happy with my 290s, and 290x gpu's which can be found dirt cheap. I game is really high resolutions so after i just moved from an intel platform the FX seems to be doing well. I paid less for my 9590 with mobo than i would have for a used intel 6core. I also bought my 4 290x's off ebay from an ex miner and paid just a little over MSRP for a titan black. I came from an Nvidia/intel setup and personally this FX/290x setup is really doing well. Each to their own i guess, but i always look for price-performance instead of performance.


----------



## Chargeit

I'll tell you that Nvidia prices suck, but from my experience every game just runs right on them even if they have the AMD logo before them. I did hear other people with 780's complaining about "Battlefield 4" when it first came out, but since I haven't played it I can't comment from first hand experience. I did pick up "Battlefield 3" a few weeks back when they were giving it out free. Set everything to max and the game ran without a hitch. This was single player. I'm not sure how online changes its performance.

Same with Intel. It's costly, but everything just runs right.

Would I buy a 780 ti over a R9 290X? If I were in the market for a card for my main gaming rig, I wouldn't think twice about picking up the Nvidia GPU because I know it will run everything I throw at it flawless without 1000 excuses about why it's running like crap.

I guess some of it has to do with the games you play. Many games do run fine on both types of set ups, but, I play a large selection of games and can say that if you want the best general performance, then Intel/Nvidia is the way to go.

My issue with "price-performance " is the fact that there are so many games which will perform at levels that I consider poor, that the saved bucks just doesn't make up for it "IMO". I like the idea of what I've got going on now. A higher end "Nvidia/Intel" setup for my main gaming rig, and a more budget minded "AMD" setup for back up and general use.

Personally, I really want to see AMD put out some smash CPU/GPU that catches Intel and Nvidia off guard.

I don't want to seem like a fan boy here. If I didn't think the i7-4770k / GTX 780 I have was worth the money, I'd be typing it all over the place. However, it's well worth the money and my future main system CPU/GPU will be Intel/Nvidia unless things change drastically.

This is mainly my view from gaming. Using the system for day to day tasks, lite video encoding, photo editing, and things like that I don't think most of use would benefit from the increased price of a Intel CPU.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyDNA*
> 
> I am quite happy with my 9590, and it's been on sale a few times. I am also happy with my 290s, and 290x gpu's which can be found dirt cheap. I game is really high resolutions so after i just moved from an intel platform the FX seems to be doing well. I paid less for my 9590 with mobo than i would have for a used intel 6core. I also bought my 4 290x's off ebay from an ex miner and paid just a little over MSRP for a titan black. I came from an Nvidia/intel setup and personally this FX/290x setup is really doing well. Each to their own i guess, but i always look for price-performance instead of performance.


Of course, why wouldn't you be happy? I mean, you basically have an FX 8350 that can run 5ghz with decent voltage because its cherry picked, but IMO its way overpriced because i seen 8350's witch can do 5ghz as well with decent volts so it all becomes how you look at it i guess.

Mine is impossible to keep cool at 5ghz and higher CPU/NB frequency because it needs way to much voltage that my cooler can handle. IMO i do like more CPU/NB speed because when i run my chip at 5ghz i would like to overclock my RAM to 2400 as well so i need that extra bandwidth.

As for GPU's, the AMD's performing excellent for their price but simply cannot keep up with Nvidia especially with physics, Nvidia has an special engine that takes care of the physics instead of the CPU, well you can choose between the CPU or GPU but i always use the GPU.

What i do absolutely avoid is Asus GPU's, i absolute hate them because the build quality is poor and most of the time they clock lower than the rest. Also the RMA department is a nightmare with Asus. If they would put their money in the actual product instead of marketing they would have an better product.


----------



## M3TAl

Increasing CPU-NB speed doesn't really do much for BD/Vishera CPU's. Not much point in adding all the extra voltage for it unless you're running 2200MHz+ on your memory.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Increasing CPU-NB speed doesn't really do much for BD/Vishera CPU's. Not much point in adding all the extra voltage for it unless you're running 2200MHz+ on your memory.


Yeah well, it does add some points in benchmarks but indeed if you running 1866 you do not need it. But like i said if i overclock my CPU that high, i would like to have my RAM at 2400 and CPU/NB at at least 2500.


----------



## DeadlyDNA

So is it normal for Voltage monitoring to be screwed up for HWinfo on the 990fx giga boards?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyDNA*
> 
> So is it normal for Voltage monitoring to be screwed up for HWinfo on the 990fx giga boards?


What do you mean? I get very accurate voltage readings in HWINFO64 with my giga board.


----------



## istudy92

Hey guys what would your appraisal be for my UD3, and 8320 CPU individually and bundled price be?
I am selling my painfully great 1t learning experience board =[ my baby, my lil baby must go! Going to go try intel since I am still a newbiee with all the brands=p


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Hey guys what would your appraisal be for my UD3, and 8320 CPU individually and bundled price be?
> I am selling my painfully great 1t learning experience board =[ my baby, my lil baby must go! Going to go try intel since I am still a newbiee with all the brands=p


Maybe $120 - $130 for the CPU, and $100 for the board. $210 - $240 for the bundle. I think you can get those new from Newegg for a total of $285 right now.

The 8320 is high on Newegg atm, $160, and it isn't uncommon for it to be more like $145. The Board is $125, I think this is around the normal price.

It really depends. I'd sell them off for $200 and be done with it, but I'm just like that.

People seem willing to buy used to save $20 bucks or so.


----------



## DeadlyDNA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> What do you mean? I get very accurate voltage readings in HWINFO64 with my giga board.


Sorry i meant CPUID HWmonitor


----------



## DeadlyDNA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Hey guys what would your appraisal be for my UD3, and 8320 CPU individually and bundled price be?
> I am selling my painfully great 1t learning experience board =[ my baby, my lil baby must go! Going to go try intel since I am still a newbiee with all the brands=p


Curious what your going to nab on the intel side cpu wise?


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Maybe $120 - $130 for the CPU, and $100 for the board. $210 - $240 for the bundle. I think you can get those new from Newegg for a total of $285 right now.
> 
> The 8320 is high on Newegg atm, $160, and it isn't uncommon for it to be more like $145. The Board is $125, I think this is around the normal price.
> 
> It really depends. I'd sell them off for $200 and be done with it, but I'm just like that.
> 
> People seem willing to buy used to save $20 bucks or so.


Yeah im thinking of selling bundle at 220 100 board and 120 cpu, so you got the same idea i had lol, ill think about the 200 price point, although to me I am not THAT quick to sell 20 bucks serves me good big lunch=]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyDNA*
> 
> Curious what your going to nab on the intel side cpu wise?


I want to try it out, I used to have CF 7950s then went 780 and liked it and now trying the intel chip and mobo and fairing how it is.
Also 83xx are 18 months old resale value will go down eventually its best to rid of it while price is still at a point that I bought it at. Not that it will be significant because hell my 1090t sold for more on ebay than 8350!

Plus I have money to burn during summer so mine as well.
I plan on upgrading to i5 devil canyon, then to i7 Broadwell, once broadwell becomes old in maybe 18-24 months from now, I hope to switch back to AMD exavator FX chip, AMD announced as you saw they wont have anything up the sleeves for another 2 years, which is perfect timing for me to switch back to AMD/Mantle. I have big hopes for it.

So I essentially have a 2 year cycle planned out and switching back and fourth when one beats the other. (at least thats my plan)


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, $220 isn't bad.

For $120 you can get a FX 6300. So, it makes it attractive to pick up the FX 8320 for the same price even if used.

$100 for the board is also reasonable, since just like the above it jumps you up in board level.

With the money the person saves buying used, it could move them up another level of GPU.

$220 return on that CPU and mobo isn't bad on your part, and will easily net you a really nice Z97 board, with money left over.


----------



## istudy92

Just trying it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, $220 isn't bad.
> 
> For $120 you can get a FX 6300. So, it makes it attractive to pick up the FX 8320 for the same price even if used.
> 
> $100 for the board is also reasonable, since just like the above it jumps you up in board level.
> 
> With the money the person saves buying used, it could move them up another level of GPU.
> 
> $220 return on that CPU and mobo isn't bad on your part, and will easily net you a really nice Z97 board, with money left over.


Exactly, its a mutual win win, Id like 220 to break even with the z97 ROG hero board I bought for ~225

This board and 8320 are like value PC parts they are such a BANG FOR THE BUCK in every aspect possible.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Just trying it
> Exactly, its a mutual win win, Id like 220 to break even with the z97 ROG hero board I bought for ~225
> 
> This board and 8320 are like value PC parts they are such a BANG FOR THE BUCK in every aspect possible.


Yea, the LG 1150 MOBO can be costly if you want a higher end one. I've got the Z87 version of the board you ordered. It has some really useful features/programs such as direct to bios, Ram disk, buttons on the board for power/reset. Hell, even has some nice lighting effects and a LED display for bios codes.

^^ Sonic radar might be a useful tool too.

I'm assuming the Z97 has the same general features/software included.

My only complaint is that it has one less USB connection on the board then my 990FXA-UD5, and it feels less beefy.

*Caught mine 3 months ago when they were fading out. Got a good price on it, $180 (was $220). The 4770k wasn't that bad, well, for that CPU $310 on sale... Though I missed out on the free game.


----------



## amateurbuilder

Probably dumb question. I just bought the UD3 version. How do I update the bios before using my cpu? I am building a new system with an fx 8350. I saw on the site that the board needs updating to use this?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amateurbuilder*
> 
> Probably dumb question. I just bought the UD3 version. How do I update the bios before using my cpu? I am building a new system with an fx 8350. I saw on the site that the board needs updating to use this?


The FX 8350 has been out for a few years. I doubt you need the bios update.









*I had this same worry when I first built my AM3+ system. Any AM3+ mobo built since that CPU came out will fully support it. Unless you're picking one up off of ebay, that some guy had sitting in his closet for 2+ years you don't have to worry about it.


----------



## amateurbuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> The FX 8350 has been out for a few years. I doubt you need the bios update.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I had this same worry when I first built my AM3+ system. Any AM3+ mobo built since that CPU came out will fully support it. Unless you're picking one up off of ebay, that some guy had sitting in his closet for 2+ years you don't have to worry about it.


Thanks!


----------



## crashovride02

I tried to search the thread for this but no luck, although that may just be me. When I press the power button on my machine it will start up for only about 1 sec. The fans will come on, the power and HDD lights will come on then go right off. Then after about 4-5 seconds it will start up again and boot normally on it's own. Any idea why this would happen? It did not do this with my Phenom II X3 720BE installed before I got the FX6300.


----------



## CravinR1

My ud3 from last august came with newest f2 bios which supports my fx 6300 and 8350 and sempron 145


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crashovride02*
> 
> I tried to search the thread for this but no luck, although that may just be me. When I press the power button on my machine it will start up for only about 1 sec. The fans will come on, the power and HDD lights will come on then go right off. Then after about 4-5 seconds it will start up again and boot normally on it's own. Any idea why this would happen? It did not do this with my Phenom II X3 720BE installed before I got the FX6300.


Yea, it has something to do with one of the power settings you altered. Your system is fine. I haven't messed with the bios in months, and can't remember off hand the setting that causes that... Think it might be "Cool & Quiet".

*What's happening is your board is going to post, it then gets told the settings in the bois, and restarts using those settings. Basically. ^^


----------



## M3TAl

This problem has been discussed multiple times over the past few months, it should be added to the OP.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> This problem has been discussed multiple times over the past few months, it should be added to the OP.


^ This.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, it has something to do with one of the power settings you altered. Your system is fine. I haven't messed with the bios in months, and can't remember off hand the setting that causes that... Think it might be "Cool & Quiet".
> 
> *What's happening is your board is going to post, it then gets told the settings in the bois, and restarts using those settings. Basically. ^^


Oh! since i always got that problem every time i tried to overclock i just though that my power supply couldn't handle the boost hahaha. How should i manage the core functions if i want to overclock then? To avoid that thing of delayed startup.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Oh! since i always got that problem every time i tried to overclock i just though that my power supply couldn't handle the boost hahaha. How should i manage the core functions if i want to overclock then? To avoid that thing of delayed startup.


I don't remember. I haven't messed with the AM3+ board bios since I got my 4770k, other then to install it in this new system, and set the ram to 1600. ^^ I have crap long term memory, too much partying back in the day.

If I remember correct though, it's disabling "Cool & Quiet" that causes it. I'm not sure there is a way around that issue. I'd suggest going in, enabling cool and quiet to see if that stops it from double posting.

It's annoying that it happens, but really doesn't harm anything. *I just turn my computers on when I wake up, and leave it on until I go to sleep.

*I used to just sleep my systems, but my Z87 board has a issue with sleep, where my OC wouldn't act correctly when coming out of it. Though, I guess I did disable my Z87 oc for now, I just stopped sleeping all together. All mobo have something that's a pain in the butt.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crashovride02*
> 
> I tried to search the thread for this but no luck, although that may just be me. When I press the power button on my machine it will start up for only about 1 sec. The fans will come on, the power and HDD lights will come on then go right off. Then after about 4-5 seconds it will start up again and boot normally on it's own. Any idea why this would happen? It did not do this with my Phenom II X3 720BE installed before I got the FX6300.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, it has something to do with one of the power settings you altered. Your system is fine. I haven't messed with the bios in months, and can't remember off hand the setting that causes that... Think it might be "Cool & Quiet".
> 
> *What's happening is your board is going to post, it then gets told the settings in the bois, and restarts using those settings. Basically. ^^
Click to expand...

turbo !


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> turbo !


=D

I did mention that my memory is terrible.









Mega Man is right, it's "Turbo". He's the one that told me about that.


----------



## Regnitto

Hi everyone. I guess I've joined the club. Installed a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 about a week and a half ago. Love it so far. Nice fit for my FX-6100


----------



## Mega Man

welcome


----------



## Regnitto

thanks







nice to finally be part of a club, lol.


----------



## Alxz

Hey guys i'm about to buy an UD7 (dont ask why) but it has to be an UD7; the problem is that i can't find it almost anywhere at decent price (stores with international shipping since i'm from México). All i can find is the Rev 1.x instead of the 3.0... afaik the 1.x doesn't have UEFI Bios but is there any other disadvantage when compared to Rev 3??.

Anyways, Do you know where i can buy an UD7 Rev 3 (i can't in newegg since they doesn't ship internationally..)??


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=2222113320&vpn=GA-990FXA-UD7&manufacture=Gigabyte&catid=10

idk if they ship though sorry


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=2222113320&vpn=GA-990FXA-UD7&manufacture=Gigabyte&catid=10
> 
> idk if they ship though sorry


Oh they dont







but since the description says Ultra Durable 3 i think it would be a 1.x version (as i can remember, the rev 3 has Ultra 4)
Would be any difference in performance or any other "important" feature i will miss if i buy an 1.x?


----------



## Mega Man

better bios on 1.1


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> better bios on 1.1


So if i get a 1.1 i'll be fine? (probably even 1.0, what i've hear is that 1.1 has LLC and neither 1.0 and 3.0 have). But when it comes to performance (power phase, overclocking, etc) i'll be fine?


----------



## M3TAl

If it's anything like the UD3 then 1.1 is where it's at. The BIOS is just much less of a headache, no throttling problems or anything. Sure it's old school non-UEFI but it just plain works.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> better bios on 1.1
> 
> 
> 
> So if i get a 1.1 i'll be fine? (probably even 1.0, what i've hear is that 1.1 has LLC and neither 1.0 and 3.0 have). But when it comes to performance (power phase, overclocking, etc) i'll be fine?
Click to expand...

rev 3 has llc, the bios are just.... a issue that you can easily overcome
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If it's anything like the UD3 then 1.1 is where it's at. The BIOS is just much less of a headache, no throttling problems or anything. Sure it's old school non-UEFI but it just plain works.


hate to tell you this there is no throttling problems on the ud7,nor the ud5, just the ud3 rev 3


----------



## Chargeit

After I updated my rev 3 ud5 bios APM was added and throttling wasn't a problem.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> rev 3 has llc, the bios are just.... a issue that you can easily overcome
> hate to tell you this there is no throttling problems on the ud7,nor the ud5, just the ud3 rev 3


Thanks!!

But anyone knows why there are almost zero UD7 REV3 out there? They are just 1 year old!


----------



## Mega Man

not alot of people buy them not alot of people want quad fire on amd , and more then you think are out there


----------



## aaroc

I read on the manual that the UD7 uses up to 1.5V 2000 DDR3, what brand/model do you recommend for that type of mobo? Thanks!


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I read on the manual that the UD7 uses up to 1.5V 2000 DDR3, what brand/model do you recommend for that type of mobo? Thanks!


Hey aaroc 

I am loving my Corsair Dom Platinum with my UD7's. I highly recommend it.

For OC'ing ability, heatsinks, and stability.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I read on the manual that the UD7 uses up to 1.5V 2000 DDR3, what brand/model do you recommend for that type of mobo? Thanks!


i use 1.65 without issue !


----------



## DeadlyDNA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hey aaroc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am loving my Corsair Dom Platinum with my UD7's. I highly recommend it.
> For OC'ing ability, heatsinks, and stability.


Hey send 2 of those sticks my way please


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadlyDNA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Hey aaroc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am loving my Corsair Dom Platinum with my UD7's. I highly recommend it.
> For OC'ing ability, heatsinks, and stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey send 2 of those sticks my way please
Click to expand...

Why? so you can OC them higher than me and make me look a fool??!....well I think not


----------



## aaroc

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=667672&csid=_61&rrpl=search_page.content1&rrstr=SolrSearchToView&rrindex=3
That is the 1.1 or 3.0 version of this board? Its possible to get 2400 ram to work at 2400, like the CHVFZ? I found a EK waterblock for the mobo


----------



## Mega Man

yes i have it at 2400 in it ! ( rev 3 )

but it does not have the multi for some stupid reason, so you have to use FSB !


----------



## M3TAl

CPU-NB has to be raised to 2400 MHz or higher as well correct? Makes it more difficult if you have a really bad chip (my 8320 for example).

And for anyone with a custom looped 8 core: Calling all custom looped 83X0's - Temps???

+REPs for anyone who can provide results.


----------



## Mega Man

idr temps atm

but yes cpu/nb does,

very few cant make it ( 2400 cpu/nb ) , however the imc may not be able to handle any/ 4 dimms ( some can only take 2 dimms ) and larger sticks matter ( IE 8gb sticks vs 4gb )


----------



## aaroc

If I plan to use 32GB (4x8GB), what frequency do you recommend? I have G.Skill X-Trident 2400 CL10 will I have problems, even running at less frequency? Thanks!


----------



## M3TAl

Nothing wrong with going for 1866 with say CL8 or CL7 if those sticks can handle that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> If I plan to use 32GB (4x8GB), what frequency do you recommend? I have G.Skill X-Trident 2400 CL10 will I have problems, even running at less frequency? Thanks!


probably but you wont know unless you try !

2133 should be doable cl9

idk if you can pul cl8/7 on 1866 with 32gb


----------



## mus1mus

you can try with some FSB. Else, like @@M3TAl you can always downclock and tightem them.









Just a note; 4 sticks will be harder to tame as I've heard.


----------



## ebduncan

my custom loop cooling results on my 8320. I have two rads RX 240 in push only, and a Alphcool XT45 280mm in push pull. I am water cooling my gpu as well (R9-290) This picture is a bit old sorry for that. I'd take a new one but my computer is broken atm. Which leads me to my next question.

I am pretty sure my motherboard has bit the dust. 3 years of running a either a 8120 or a 8320 overclocked. Bad timing if you ask me. Cause I really don't want to buy another AM3+ motherboard right now. I don't have the money to switch over to a Haswell board and cpu either.

Figure would be around 450$ for a 4690k and motherboard. little over 500$ for a 4790k and motherboard. I could also just get another motherboard the ud3 costs 130$, and the crossshair formula z is 220$, the ud7 is 200$. Not sure if I want to deal with another ud3. BLAH!!!!!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> 
> 
> my custom loop cooling results on my 8320. I have two rads RX 240 in push only, and a Alphcool XT45 280mm in push pull. I am water cooling my gpu as well (R9-290) This picture is a bit old sorry for that. I'd take a new one but my computer is broken atm. Which leads me to my next question.
> 
> I am pretty sure my motherboard has bit the dust. 3 years of running a either a 8120 or a 8320 overclocked. Bad timing if you ask me. Cause I really don't want to buy another AM3+ motherboard right now. I don't have the money to switch over to a Haswell board and cpu either.
> 
> Figure would be around 450$ for a 4690k and motherboard. little over 500$ for a 4790k and motherboard. I could also just get another motherboard the ud3 costs 130$, and the crossshair formula z is 220$, the ud7 is 200$. Not sure if I want to deal with another ud3. BLAH!!!!!


What about them kitties?

You could go Intel with some cash but I don't think it will even be more of an upgrade.

Intel hexas would be good though. Demn they are just over priced..


----------



## ebduncan

Well after spending a an hour or so troubleshooting. I found 2 problems.

First problem was my PCI-E cable shorted out at the power supply end and melted. I bypassed this problem by replacing the cable and using a different pci-e rail on the power supply. Computer works again yay..

Second problem was discovered after I fixed the first problem. Network Lan no longer works. Doh I had already RMAed this motherboard for network lan failure and now you mean to tell me it happened again?!? granted its plausible the power supply caused it this time around.

So it works kinda, Need a replacement board still.

Question is do I just want to ditch this AM3+ platform now or later. Probably end up just getting another ud3. Will get rev 4.0 and will get to play with LLC for once. That 4790k with a MSI Z97 Gaming board deal on the egg is looking rather tempting though, just sayin.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> 
> 
> my custom loop cooling results on my 8320. I have two rads RX 240 in push only, and a Alphcool XT45 280mm in push pull. I am water cooling my gpu as well (R9-290) This picture is a bit old sorry for that. I'd take a new one but my computer is broken atm. Which leads me to my next question.
> 
> I am pretty sure my motherboard has bit the dust. 3 years of running a either a 8120 or a 8320 overclocked. Bad timing if you ask me. Cause I really don't want to buy another AM3+ motherboard right now. I don't have the money to switch over to a Haswell board and cpu either.
> 
> Figure would be around 450$ for a 4690k and motherboard. little over 500$ for a 4790k and motherboard. I could also just get another motherboard the ud3 costs 130$, and the crossshair formula z is 220$, the ud7 is 200$. Not sure if I want to deal with another ud3. BLAH!!!!!


Was there any extra voltage on the CPU-NB and any idea on the ambient temp?

What is your mobo doing? Or not doing? I thought mine was dead too but apparently it was just shorting out somehow. Might of been touching part of the case mobo tray. Adding electrical tape all over the mobo tray fixed it for whatever reason.

Did your board have a catastrophic failure? Pop, smoke, and burn?

Didn't see your second post. The 4790K is definitely tempting. If I was still on the x4 955 and had the money I would be all over that 4790K.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Was there any extra voltage on the CPU-NB and any idea on the ambient temp?
> 
> What is your mobo doing? Or not doing? I thought mine was dead too but apparently it was just shorting out somehow. Might of been touching part of the case mobo tray. Adding electrical tape all over the mobo tray fixed it for whatever reason.
> 
> Did your board have a catastrophic failure? Pop, smoke, and burn?
> 
> Didn't see your second post. The 4790K is definitely tempting. If I was still on the x4 955 and had the money I would be all over that 4790K.


replied in your other thread as well. Cpu-NB volts is 1.3, and ambient temp is 24c. As tempting as a 4790k is, I don't think my wallet can swing that right now. I'll probably end up getting another am3+ board, probably another UD3.


----------



## Chargeit

I can tell you one thing, I made the move 3 or so months ago to a Z87 / 4770k, and it was worth it for gaming. Cases of games running poorly for no reason basically went out the window. For a gaming PC, I don't think you can go wrong with the 4790k. Even at stock it will out perform your current CPU in many games. They're expensive, but you kind of get what you pay for there.

I still love my 8320 for how I use it, but I'd be lying if I said my 4770k wasn't worth the price when it comes to gaming.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> replied in your other thread as well. Cpu-NB volts is 1.3, and ambient temp is 24c. As tempting as a 4790k is, I don't think my wallet can swing that right now. I'll probably end up getting another am3+ board, probably another UD3.


I've still got a 970A-UD3 Rev 1.1 if you want it. They're 8+2 phase same as the 990FXA, just less PCI-e lanes. Oh and the stock HT-Link is 2400 MHz instead of 2600 MHz. One more thing there is only "3" LLC options: Auto, Extreme, and Regular. Auto/Extreme seem the same to me (more vcore at load) and if I'm remembering correctly Regular might of been no LLC? I haven't messed with Regular LLC on the board in ages but I think it allows vdroop.

I'm actually putting the x4 955 in it right now for a steam streaming client but it can also go in my old mATX AM3/AM2+ board.


----------



## Alxz

UD7 for VRM/NB watercooling!

Just kidding i'm just kinda excited (?)


----------



## aaroc

Gigabyte sell UD7 v1 at tis moment or only v3? I want to buy one and want the higher version.


----------



## ebduncan

Well I just ordered a new AM3+ board.

Going with theASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Killer. I will post feed back of it once I get it. If i'm unhappy with it I will return it and get another UD3 instead. Wanted to try something new.

Ordered a m2 ssd as well :-D


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Well I just ordered a new AM3+ board.
> 
> Going with theASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Killer. I will post feed back of it once I get it. If i'm unhappy with it I will return it and get another UD3 instead. Wanted to try something new.
> 
> Ordered a m2 ssd as well :-D


ohh boy, in the main Vishera thread, people found the limitations of the Killer. It is worse than the UD3 as I've heard.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ohh boy, in the main Vishera thread, people found the limitations of the Killer. It is worse than the UD3 as I've heard.


People found limits of the ud3 rev 1.0 as well. Then I come along like a boss and prove the board clocks just fine even with out llc. I don't usually judge other peoples overclocking results, as i've always obtained different results. Its all in the setup. That and most people don't have a really good cooling Like I have.

If it turns out to be a dud, I will be sending it back .

I have a rather good 8320 sample, should overclock well on just about anything.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> People found limits of the ud3 rev 1.0 as well. Then I come along like a boss and prove the board clocks just fine even with out llc. I don't usually judge other peoples overclocking results, as i've always obtained different results. Its all in the setup. That and most people don't have a really good cooling Like I have.
> 
> If it turns out to be a dud, I will be sending it back .
> 
> I have a rather good 8320 sample, should overclock well on just about anything.


I believe you in that aspect.







I just feel the need to inform in case you haven't heard. yet


----------



## hurricane28

Hi guys, I have a question.

How good is the on board sound card of the UD5? I have plans for getting another sound card for my music and could not find anything about the on board sound card so i ask here.

Idk yet what card i am going for but i would like to know if it would be a good upgrade.

thnx in advanced


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hi guys, I have a question.
> 
> How good is the on board sound card of the UD5? I have plans for getting another sound card for my music and could not find anything about the on board sound card so i ask here.
> 
> Idk yet what card i am going for but i would like to know if it would be a good upgrade.
> 
> thnx in advanced


You want to add a sound card but you're not sure if you like the on board sound? Come'on dude, find something better to spend your money on.

I think the on board sound of my UD5 is great, but I'm no Audiophile.

From what I understand if you really want improved sound you want to look into a sound device that is outside of your system, since the inside of a computer is a noisy place and can add in tons of interference, especially if you're using your front audio jacks. Those front jacks have to travel all the way though your system before getting to your headset taking on any interference.

I'd suggest plugging straight into the back of your mobo and seeing if that helps... Also, remember USB speakers or headsets use their own built in sound device.

Like I mentioned, sound isn't really my thing that's some basic info I gathered.

You want a great upgrade? Add a Fan controller if you don't already have one, and/or get all high end fans like Noctua. I never used Noctua fans myself because I can't get over the look of them, but everyone says they're well worth the money.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> You want to add a sound card but you're not sure if you like the on board sound? Come'on dude, find something better to spend your money on.
> 
> I think the on board sound of my UD5 is great, but I'm no Audiophile.
> 
> From what I understand if you really want improved sound you want to look into a sound device that is outside of your system, since the inside of a computer is a noisy place and can add in tons of interference, especially if you're using your front audio jacks. Those front jacks have to travel all the way though your system before getting to your headset taking on any interference.
> 
> I'd suggest plugging straight into the back of your mobo and seeing if that helps... Also, remember USB speakers or headsets use their own built in sound device.
> 
> Like I mentioned, sound isn't really my thing that's some basic info I gathered.
> 
> You want a great upgrade? Add a Fan controller if you don't already have one, and/or get all high end fans like Noctua. I never used Noctua fans myself because I can't get over the look of them, but everyone says they're well worth the money.


No actually i like the sound of my board and as a matter a fact it surprised me because most of the on board sound cards suck.

Well, i have some money to spend and i would like to upgrade something and since the performance is good enough and my GPU is more than capable to play any game at decent FPS i would like to have some better sound.

I would like something with a bit more push and 192KHz because thats the best you can get from a sound card.

So my question was more like if its worth it to pay over 100 Euro for a better sound card. I know about the cables so i have plans on getting something like this: http://www.asus.com/nl/Sound_Cards_and_DigitaltoAnalog_Converters/Xonar_U7/

as you can see i already have an fan controller so i don't need one











I also considered some better fans but where i am from i can't really get better ones than my standard Corsair SP120L's

Perhaps i trade my H100i in for an H105 since the performance is better and the rad is more less dense. I just upgrade my SSD from a 120GB Samsung EVO to an 250GB version and i must say that the 250GB versions feel a lot more snappy in windows 7 and things load a tad faster too, so next to more space i gained some speed too, so good upgrade


----------



## Chargeit

I wasn't convinced that sound cards are required now a days, though some live by them. Your speakers are a good set if I remember correctly, you might see some benefit... Or you might placebo.

I'm looking at the boards on board Ouput, and it maxes at "24 Bits, 192000 HZ (Studio Quality)". Not sure *** that means, but it sounds fairly high. I guess if whatever form of music you're listening to is out put higher then that, you'll want a better sound card?

_The UD5 on board audio control panel_


Here are some sound card reviews...
http://sound-cards-review.toptenreviews.com/

I say if you're going to buy one, then get a expensive one that should at least equal the on board. When I was looking into them, I found that a lot of the cheaper options are no better, if not worse then the on board. The largest benefit was they were louder, which helps with headphones.

I'd move to a 16gb ram kit. Shouldn't net you much performance, but, it does cut down on writes to your SSD. A good DDR3 16gb kit would be the last DDR3 ram kit you'd need.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I wasn't convinced that sound cards are required now a days, though some live by them. Your speakers are a good set if I remember correctly, you might see some benefit... Or you might placebo.
> 
> I'm looking at the boards on board Ouput, and it maxes at "24 Bits, 192000 HZ (Studio Quality)". Not sure *** that means, but it sounds fairly high. I guess if whatever form of music you're listening to is out put higher then that, you'll want a better sound card?
> 
> _The UD5 on board audio control panel_
> 
> 
> Here are some sound card reviews...
> http://sound-cards-review.toptenreviews.com/
> 
> I say if you're going to buy one, then get a expensive one that should at least equal the on board. When I was looking into them, I found that a lot of the cheaper options are no better, if not worse then the on board. The largest benefit was they were louder, which helps with headphones.
> 
> I'd move to a 16gb ram kit. Shouldn't net you much performance, but, it does cut down on writes to your SSD. A good DDR3 16gb kit would be the last DDR3 ram kit you'd need.


They are not required but since i am listening to different kinds of music and most of them are FLAC, i would like some more clarity in my sound. Also i have an quite good head phone from Sennheiser and now and than i like to listen to music though my head phone. When you have an higher-end head phone and some decent speakers its advised to get a better sound card to get the best out of them.
I did notice too that in the UD5 sound panel there is an option for 192KHz but that's no were near the 192KHz of an dedicated sound card that is specially made for it. They do not make sound cards for no reason.

My speakers are the Logitech Z2300 THX and with a better sound card they will sound a lot better and my head phone too because in most sound cards there is an head phone amp.

As for RAM, i have 8GB of it and in my opinion its not necessarily to add another 8GB. Only when i am working in Adobe i notice that i could use A LOT more of it but even 16GB is not that much so i would be better off with 32GB but that is too expensive so i am good at RAM.

Thnx for your input man, appreciate it


----------



## Chargeit

Then I say drop money on it and get the best sound card you can afford. However, don't waste your money on a sub-par sound card that isn't even the quality of on board with a slightly better amp. Do it right.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Then I say drop money on it and get the best sound card you can afford. However, don't waste your money on a sub-par sound card that isn't even the quality of on board with a slightly better amp. Do it right.


Yeah, i am still looking for the best one, its not that easy to choose from all those sound cards. I heard a lot of good thing about Asus but Creative have pretty good ones too so it all depends on witch i like the most i guess.

I think i will go with the Asus one i posted before an try it, keep you updated


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yeah, i am still looking for the best one, its not that easy to choose from all those sound cards. I heard a lot of good thing about Asus but Creative have pretty good ones too so it all depends on witch i like the most i guess.
> 
> I think i will go with the Asus one i posted before an try it, keep you updated


Here's a interesting article you might want to read.

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/high-end-pc-audio,3733.html


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Here's a interesting article you might want to read.
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/high-end-pc-audio,3733.html


Awesome, i will take a read at it tomorrow, its kinda late here and i want some beer lol


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Awesome, i will take a read at it tomorrow, its kinda late here and i want some beer lol


Yea, that sounds like a idea. ^^


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, that sounds like a idea. ^^


cheers mate


----------



## M3TAl

I want some beer too, it's my bday... But I'm broke


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I want some beer too, it's my bday... But I'm broke


congratulations dude!









what age did you reach if i may ask?

I have my last one, if i had some more i would send you some by Fedex


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I want some beer too, it's my bday... But I'm broke


Happy birthday man.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> congratulations dude!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what age did you reach if i may ask?
> 
> I have my last one, if i had some more i would send you some by Fedex


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Happy birthday man.


Hahaha. Thanks. Turned 25, tired of getting older. Can I just stay perpetually 25?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Can I just stay perpetually 25?


Nope, it only gets worse.


----------



## hurricane28

Yeah, i guess chargeit is right. I turn 30 in about 4 months but i am haply with it because its whatever you make of it and age is just a number its not like you are that number


----------



## Chargeit

The problem with getting older is you watch things like this to pass your time instead of, "Getting jiggy with it".


----------



## aaroc

I had the same sound card question, but for the Asus Crosshair V Formula Z. I searched the internerd and found a review which conclusion was that you had to spend more than 150USD on a sound card to match the onboard one. Finally I bought the Creative Soundblaster X-FI MB3, because my previous mobo came with the mb2 version and I really loved it. Its a software for HDaudio soundcards. It has 3d positional audio, crystalizer, alchemy, etc... the same that came with the hardware soundblaster soundcards. It enhance audio in different ways. Check it here and here. If the SW only version was not available, I would bought a SB card to have crystaizer, alchemy and 3d positioning audio. I dont have a gigabyte mobo yet, so I cant tell you if the CHVFZ has better audio or not.


----------



## Chargeit

On board sound is as good as it gets sound wise. It's features and sound amp that makes the difference. Even the tomshardware review that I posted said people with $70,000 systems couldn't tell the difference between the 2k sound card, and the on board... It's a placebo effect thinking it sounds better.

I want to save the guy money and have him do a upgrade that matters. A sound card isn't that upgrade. Speaker quality matters much more then the source for PC... He has good speakers.

Sound cards are antiquated tech if you look at any information outside of the providers, and people who already spent money on it.

Sorry to say, but if you think it sounds better, it's because it's louder or "Placebo effect".

I'll leave it alone from now on.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I want some beer too, it's my bday... But I'm broke


Happy bday M3TAl!

as far as the sound. I had my UD3 rev4 on board sound hooked up to my 5.1 Dolby Digital home surround via a stereo 1/8" to RCA cable and it sounded beautiful. was also gaming Wolfenstein the New Order on my 42" led


----------



## ebduncan

sound cards are rather pointless these days I feel.

If you buy something its usually because you need different input/ outputs. Some of the software controls are nice. Actual sound quality though is not going to be even a small difference.

First you need a high quality source,
Second you need good speaker/ head phones
Third you need proper dac or receiver to power said speakers/ head phones

The standard codecs bundled with most boards these days are more than capable of producing high fidelity sound.


----------



## hurricane28

thnx guys for the input, much obliged.

I am happy with the on board sound card its simply one of the best on the 990FX motherboards but i would like something more better quality if thats possible. To be perfectly honest, i am surprised how good this on board sound card sounds.

I do have a good speaker setup, Logitech Z2300 a while ago considered the best 2.1 set for the money.

As for head phones, i have the Sennheiser HD335s for 100 euro but i am going to trade it because i am not happy with the build quality, the sound is pretty good but they do not fit snugly on my rather big ears so over time its irritating.

I am considering getting this one: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50xBL-Professional-Headphones-Blue/dp/B00HVLUSGM

Considered the best head phone for audiophiles and people that want the best sound possible for a head phone.


----------



## M3TAl

I've got the ATH-M50s. Got them for around $100 3-4 years ago. I assume the internals are the same as the xBL? Nice headphone but man do my ears sweat with them but that can probably be said for any closed back headphone. Little bit of a dip in the high mids/low highs and some good bass. Personally I like the sound of the Sennheiser HD-280 PRO just a little more.

The headband leather or whatever material it's made from is wearing away. But remember I wear these basically every single day for the past 3-4 years.


----------



## mus1mus

I'd say if you are just like a listener of mp3 sources, stick with on board. If you are on audio production or broadcast, things are getting interesting.

Most inherent issue with on board audio is actually not the quality. Its noise. Discrete sound cards eliminate the noise inherent to onboard devices by having its on processing.

Note I'm basing this with old mobos. Whenever a CPU is loaded for example, audio is also affected. New ones might already taken care of that.

To top this, I'll leave what audiophiles always follow as a rule.

"Source dictates output quality".

You can't produce a good sound from a bad source. This source is your music files. You can't make a 128kbps source sound like a proper production CD. 320kbps or better might be interesting but they're not yet there if you have an audiophile ear.

Now, if you have a properly ripped repertoire of audio files, and is using them into production or broadcast, pick the best one with the highest signal to noise response, most bit depth and so on.

On brands, I'm hearing good reps for creatives. But I haven't been in touch with audio for a little while now so my insights might be already outdated and may have already lost my touch in audio.

Edit, m50s,are good.,they are actually a product cross between studio and consumer headphones. Best headphone available for consumer grade. But not yet in the league of studio headphones I should say. AKGs were also good.


----------



## hurricane28

Thnx guys for the input, much obliged









I went to an audio professional store here and they said it was not worth the money or i have to buy an external sound card for at least 350-400 dollar range to notice any difference.

Its not about the 192Khz but how strong the outlet ports are and mostly with cheaper sound cards they are not very strong and the shielding of the components are very poor so there is a lot of static noise.

Long story short, there is no reason to upgrade to an cheap external sound card only if you are going for an more expensive one you notice a difference


----------



## hurricane28

Also i tried several head phones and non of them sounded better than my Sennheiser HD335s, i tried some KRK KNS-8400 and to be honest they sounded awful.

I tried some beringher too and they did not sound better and the looks of it was terrible IMO. the only downside of my Sennheiser is that the earpieces could have been bigger because over time its getting annoying so maybe if i can find something better i am going to trade them again.


----------



## aaroc

Maybe you can check this DAC and AMPS: http://schiit.com/


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Maybe you can check this DAC and AMPS: http://schiit.com/


Looks interesting but as far as i can see its only an head phone amp and i need more, i want to connect my speakers as well.

My best guess is to try this: http://www.asus.com/nl/Sound_Cards_and_DigitaltoAnalog_Converters/Xonar_U7/

I heard some good things about them but have to order it and listen for myself to judge.


----------



## M3TAl

Behringer... They mostly make (in China) knock off's of other companies solid products while having a very few good products themselves (FCB1010 midi controller and maybe a few mixers). Their "high" end line Bugera is pretty impressive for the price though, all knock offs of Marshall, Peavey, and Mesa tube amps.

You might of thought nothing sounded better than your 335's because that's what you're used to hearing... Just a thought.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Behringer... They mostly make (in China) knock off's of other companies solid products while having a very few good products themselves (FCB1010 midi controller and maybe a few mixers). Their "high" end line Bugera is pretty impressive for the price though, all knock offs of Marshall, Peavey, and Mesa tube amps.
> 
> You might of thought nothing sounded better than your 335's because that's what you're used to hearing... Just a thought.


I hear you on that one but that's not the case here, i own my HD335s only for a week now and listen to different other head phones but no one i could find comes even close to the clarity of this one. The bass is certainly there but its not overruling the other tones.

I would like to try the Asus USB sound card i posted in the former page and see if i can get some interference gone because i can clearly hear there is a lot of distortion in it.

The KRK KNS-8400 are much more comfortable but the sound is not that impressive so i was little disappointed in them sins they make great monitor speakers, i expected more from them to be honest.

Maybe they sound better in my home environment. Then again, my Sennheiser sounds fine but its not very comfortable to wear long periods of time and the cable is kinda short too.

So maybe i am going to try these: http://www.amazon.com/KRK-KNS8400-Studio-Headphones/dp/B004ARUO2S

and if they are not better than i am going to try these: http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50xBL-Professional-Headphones-Blue/dp/B00HVLUSGM


----------



## Ackaite

Will the 990fxa-ud7 rev1.1 take the new amd fx9590 I know on the gigabyte website it says Rev 3 supports it but not Rev 1 will it accept it with a bios update I'm sure it's been asked before but so many pages I've read thou about 30-40 pages pages and haven't found it anyone try it and have luck


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ackaite*
> 
> Will the 990fxa-ud7 rev1.1 take the new amd fx9590 I know on the gigabyte website it says Rev 3 supports it but not Rev 1 will it accept it with a bios update I'm sure it's been asked before but so many pages I've read thou about 30-40 pages pages and haven't found it anyone try it and have luck


Yes it will handle it, the rev 1.1 has LLC and the rev 3.0 as well. There should be no problem.


----------



## aaronsta1

i just built a pc with this board and a FX 8350 CPU.

im just getting into overclocking it.

i set the vid to 1.4 and i set the muli to 23 to see how it work and it loaded up..
i ran prim95 for aobut an hour. the temps were low 40s at full load. it peaked at 43c

but when i ran 3dmark but the score went down from when i ran it stock.

the graphics tests were the same as stock clocks.. physics went up but the combined dropped a bunch..

does this cpu not scale with OC?

i did notice when i was running prime95 the clocks were jumping around a lot.. at stock speeds they seem pretty steady at 4200..
is there a way to combat that? the cpu was not over heating.. like i said the core peaked at 43 and the socket was like 46.

i do want to keep cool n quiet on.

i looked around for some OC guides for this board.. not much around.. my board is v4.0


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> i just built a pc with this board and a FX 8350 CPU.
> 
> im just getting into overclocking it.
> 
> i set the vid to 1.4 and i set the muli to 23 to see how it work and it loaded up..
> i ran prim95 for aobut an hour. the temps were low 40s at full load. it peaked at 43c
> 
> but when i ran 3dmark but the score went down from when i ran it stock.
> 
> the graphics tests were the same as stock clocks.. physics went up but the combined dropped a bunch..
> 
> does this cpu not scale with OC?
> 
> i did notice when i was running prime95 the clocks were jumping around a lot.. at stock speeds they seem pretty steady at 4200..
> is there a way to combat that? the cpu was not over heating.. like i said the core peaked at 43 and the socket was like 46.
> 
> i do want to keep cool n quiet on.
> 
> i looked around for some OC guides for this board.. not much around.. my board is v4.0


When you are benching turn off all of the power saving features including APM, C&Q, C6, etc and re-run 3DMark.

If you get the same thing happening, DL OCCT and run the small data set test and post the charts.

http://www.ocbase.com/

also list the specs of this system please.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> When you are benching turn off all of the power saving features including APM, C&Q, C6, etc and re-run 3DMark.
> If you get the same thing happening, DL OCCT and run the small data set test and post the charts.
> 
> http://www.ocbase.com/
> 
> also list the specs of this system please.


gaming rig 2 in my profile.

even tho the computer seems faster, i cant get the same score in firestrike i got with my i7 920..


----------



## M3TAl

What about your 7870 XT's? These cards are notorious for jumping around from 975MHz (boost) to 925MHz. The default VDDC for 975 MHz is also way too high, 1.256V. With that voltage you can hit clocks like 1100-1200MHz. Oh and the VRM temps on these cards are also notorious for going over 100C sometimes.

I couldn't stand the crazy clock jumping so I edited the BIOS to remove boost and the clock switching all together. Card boots at 1125 MHz 1.2V and when it needs to be higher I just use MSI Afterburner to raise it some more.

BIOS editor if you're interested: http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/vbe7-vbios-editor-for-radeon-hd-7000-series-cards.189089/


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What about your 7870 XT's? These cards are notorious for jumping around from 975MHz (boost) to 925MHz. The default VDDC for 975 MHz is also way too high, 1.256V. With that voltage you can hit clocks like 1100-1200MHz. Oh and the VRM temps on these cards are also notorious for going over 100C sometimes.
> 
> I couldn't stand the crazy clock jumping so I edited the BIOS to remove boost and the clock switching all together. Card boots at 1125 MHz 1.2V and when it needs to be higher I just use MSI Afterburner to raise it some more.
> 
> BIOS editor if you're interested: http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/vbe7-vbios-editor-for-radeon-hd-7000-series-cards.189089/


im running the video cards at 1150/1500 @ 1.188v

they are rock solid.. temps in the mid to upper 60s


----------



## M3TAl

Are you sure they aren't dropping clocks during the bench? They throttle based on power draw and not temps. Or well hopefully they will throttle if your VRM is hitting like 115C+


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are you sure they aren't dropping clocks during the bench? They throttle based on power draw and not temps. Or well hopefully they will throttle if your VRM is hitting like 115C+


yeah im sure its not the cards, i ran unigine heaven for 2 hours with gpu-z logging and they were solid 1150 the whole time.

they are the same cards ive had in my old i7 gaming computer for 6 months or so. it benched 9800 in firestrike.
its not the graphics test tho that is slower, its the physics test. its almost 1000 lower.

it seems that the amd cpu isnt quite as fast as the i7 was..

i was hoping it would be a better upgrade.

i do have 2 diff size and brand ram on this board.. 2 corsair 4gbs and 2 patriot 8gbs.
the 4s are rated at 1600 and the 8s are 1866.
both are running at 1600 9-9-9-24, which all 4 have a profile for.. so its the rated speed. the 1866 is XMP OC

maybe ill try to take the 4s out and try at 1866


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Just something small to add. Awhile ago someone asked if there were any problems running Linux on the 990fxa-ud5. I replied no that the only problem I had run into was setting up crossfire which in Linux can be quite nerve-wracking. Well I got to thinking when was the last time I tried installing linux on this motherboard? The answer was never. Between Linux having a monolithic kernel and the fact that there was very little difference between this board and the last one I was using (970a-ud3) all I basically had to do was move the hard drive to the new machine. Recompile some software for the newer architecture since I was using a 955 on the old board. It had been a good 3 years since I felt the need to reinstall from scratch. Boy I love Arch and the rolling release model







But I digress from the point of this post. I started playing around to make sure I hadn't given bad advice and wouldn't you know it? No x64 Linux OS would boot on this stupid machine. Most 32 bit would but no x64 at all. So I started thinking, what could possibly be so different from this board and my last as to make booting an OS so difficult if not impossible. It is the stupid Marvell controller for the extra sata ports. You know the ones, we have 0-5 running native off the south bridge, and an extra 2 running off a completely different controller. And Linux got confused. Boot loop. Hang up. Long story short, if you want to boot Linux, and you want to do it with x64, you need to go into the bios and turn off that stupid Marvell controller. Esata, gsata, whatever. Might as well turn off the other stuff not being used as well, like firewire, whatever. But anyways I really hate giving bad advice anywhere, especially to my fellow enthusiasts here at OCN. So, yes there is a tiny problem getting Linux to run on the Gigabyte 990fxa-ud5 rev.3.0. But it is easy to fix. I hope this helps someone somewhere. Have a nice day


----------



## ginger_nuts

I recently was trying to see if I could get my OC on a lower voltage, it crashed and I reset.

But a couple of days later after resetting, I started stressing again with OCCT, forgetting that I had reset to my "Optimal Defaults".

Well, it seem to have clocked to 4.7Ghz whilst everything else is stock













Has anyone experienced similar ? Or can someone explain this ?


----------



## paraddox

Hello there.

I have a noob question that I didn't manage to find an answer to with my poor search skills.

I got this system that I want to use for some OC, not much but maybe take it 10% up.

My setup(acquired 1 month ago):

CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0ghz
MB: GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 3.0 bios FCb
RAM: 8GB(2x4GB) Kingston HyperX Predator 1866Mhz with these timings
• JEDEC: DDR3-1333 CL9-9-9 @1.5V
• XMP Profile #1: DDR3-1866 CL9-11-9 @1.65V
• XMP Profile #2: DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9 @1.65V
they are installed in slots 3 and 4, as I read is necessary to run at 1866Mhz
PSU: Seasonic G Series 550W (just bought to remove any uncertainty about my 4.5 yo PSU that I had)
Cooling: Scythe Samurai ZZ with a replaced 2500rpm fan that is supposed very good.

The UD5 has the option to select which XMP profiles to use and I select the Profile 1 and all looks good.

My problem is that from time to time my computer freezes. It doesn't care if it's idle or under load.

I have managed to reproduce this by running Furmark with its built in CPU Burner. I start 8 threads in CPU Burner and then run the 1080p BurnIn test from Furmark and my system either reboots instantly or everything freezes after an arbitrary interval.

I changed my PSU thinking that age got the better of it just to find that with the new very highly reviewed Seasonic I have the same problem.

I must mention all CPU related temp hang around 54-56C and GPU when under 100%load stays at 67C with fans at 37% with stock voltages

I have loaded Bios defaults and then I have raised my VCore by 0.050 offset as some forum thread said and it seems that now I don't get the reboot in Furmark anymore just the random freezes and sometimes freezes in the above mentioned Furmark. Temps went up 1-3C.

I have attempted to toy with LLC on UltraHigh (as another forum said) but my temps spiked to 75C and I got scared and put it back on auto.

The only remaining issue that I read about is that it might be something wrong with the RAM. I have run the windows memory test and all went ok.

I noticed that the UD5 says that it has 4 X1.5V RAM slots and my memory takes 1.65V, and I also read that if I don't select any of the XMP profiles the mobo might not get any good timing values and not boot up.

So finally to my question: What should my next steps be to debug this issue?

I am out of funds to buy any other hardware for the foreseeable future so I really, really need to get this setup to work. So I'm not really eager to try anymore of that LLC stuff that almost melted my CPU.









I'm sure I'm probably doing something stupid that messed stuff up but I can't figure it out. Been at it for a week now and still computer freezes out of the blue.

Thanks for the time you took to read this.


----------



## mus1mus

Spoiler: Spoiler too long, but I did read



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> Hello there.
> 
> I have a noob question that I didn't manage to find an answer to with my poor search skills.
> 
> I got this system that I want to use for some OC, not much but maybe take it 10% up.
> 
> My setup(acquired 1 month ago):
> 
> CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0ghz
> MB: GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 3.0 bios FCb
> RAM: 8GB(2x4GB) Kingston HyperX Predator 1866Mhz with these timings
> • JEDEC: DDR3-1333 CL9-9-9 @1.5V
> • XMP Profile #1: DDR3-1866 CL9-11-9 @1.65V
> • XMP Profile #2: DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9 @1.65V
> they are installed in slots 3 and 4, as I read is necessary to run at 1866Mhz
> PSU: Seasonic G Series 550W (just bought to remove any uncertainty about my 4.5 yo PSU that I had)
> Cooling: Scythe Samurai ZZ with a replaced 2500rpm fan that is supposed very good.
> 
> The UD5 has the option to select which XMP profiles to use and I select the Profile 1 and all looks good.
> 
> My problem is that from time to time my computer freezes. It doesn't care if it's idle or under load.
> 
> I have managed to reproduce this by running Furmark with its built in CPU Burner. I start 8 threads in CPU Burner and then run the 1080p BurnIn test from Furmark and my system either reboots instantly or everything freezes after an arbitrary interval.
> 
> I changed my PSU thinking that age got the better of it just to find that with the new very highly reviewed Seasonic I have the same problem.
> 
> I must mention all CPU related temp hang around 54-56C and GPU when under 100%load stays at 67C with fans at 37% with stock voltages
> 
> I have loaded Bios defaults and then I have raised my VCore by 0.050 offset as some forum thread said and it seems that now I don't get the reboot in Furmark anymore just the random freezes and sometimes freezes in the above mentioned Furmark. Temps went up 1-3C.
> 
> I have attempted to toy with LLC on UltraHigh (as another forum said) but my temps spiked to 75C and I got scared and put it back on auto.
> 
> The only remaining issue that I read about is that it might be something wrong with the RAM. I have run the windows memory test and all went ok.
> 
> I noticed that the UD5 says that it has 4 X1.5V RAM slots and my memory takes 1.65V, and I also read that if I don't select any of the XMP profiles the mobo might not get any good timing values and not boot up.
> 
> So finally to my question: What should my next steps be to debug this issue?
> 
> I am out of funds to buy any other hardware for the foreseeable future so I really, really need to get this setup to work. So I'm not really eager to try anymore of that LLC stuff that almost melted my CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure I'm probably doing something stupid that messed stuff up but I can't figure it out. Been at it for a week now and still computer freezes out of the blue.
> 
> Thanks for the time you took to read this.






First up, is it over clocked? No?,

Temps are a little high; try Regular or medium LLC. Manually set up the Voltages. If at stock, +0.000.

Next, RAM Voltage. Set it at 1.685. It will give the rams 1.65 IIRC.

Next, ram sticks, one slot apart. If it gives you blue screens or reboots, try the unused slots. Same, one slot apart.

Lastly, GPU. What is it? Furmark won't stress your CPU so it could be the GPU. But could also be PSU.

Post screenshots of your bios please.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> Hello there.
> 
> I have a noob question that I didn't manage to find an answer to with my poor search skills.
> 
> I got this system that I want to use for some OC, not much but maybe take it 10% up.
> 
> My setup(acquired 1 month ago):
> 
> CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0ghz
> MB: GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 3.0 bios FCb
> RAM: 8GB(2x4GB) Kingston HyperX Predator 1866Mhz with these timings
> • JEDEC: DDR3-1333 CL9-9-9 @1.5V
> • XMP Profile #1: DDR3-1866 CL9-11-9 @1.65V
> • XMP Profile #2: DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9 @1.65V
> they are installed in slots 3 and 4, as I read is necessary to run at 1866Mhz
> PSU: Seasonic G Series 550W (just bought to remove any uncertainty about my 4.5 yo PSU that I had)
> Cooling: Scythe Samurai ZZ with a replaced 2500rpm fan that is supposed very good.
> 
> The UD5 has the option to select which XMP profiles to use and I select the Profile 1 and all looks good.
> 
> My problem is that from time to time my computer freezes. It doesn't care if it's idle or under load.
> 
> I have managed to reproduce this by running Furmark with its built in CPU Burner. I start 8 threads in CPU Burner and then run the 1080p BurnIn test from Furmark and my system either reboots instantly or everything freezes after an arbitrary interval.
> 
> I changed my PSU thinking that age got the better of it just to find that with the new very highly reviewed Seasonic I have the same problem.
> 
> I must mention all CPU related temp hang around 54-56C and GPU when under 100%load stays at 67C with fans at 37% with stock voltages
> 
> I have loaded Bios defaults and then I have raised my VCore by 0.050 offset as some forum thread said and it seems that now I don't get the reboot in Furmark anymore just the random freezes and sometimes freezes in the above mentioned Furmark. Temps went up 1-3C.
> 
> I have attempted to toy with LLC on UltraHigh (as another forum said) but my temps spiked to 75C and I got scared and put it back on auto.
> 
> The only remaining issue that I read about is that it might be something wrong with the RAM. I have run the windows memory test and all went ok.
> 
> I noticed that the UD5 says that it has 4 X1.5V RAM slots and my memory takes 1.65V, and I also read that if I don't select any of the XMP profiles the mobo might not get any good timing values and not boot up.
> 
> So finally to my question: What should my next steps be to debug this issue?
> 
> I am out of funds to buy any other hardware for the foreseeable future so I really, really need to get this setup to work. So I'm not really eager to try anymore of that LLC stuff that almost melted my CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure I'm probably doing something stupid that messed stuff up but I can't figure it out. Been at it for a week now and still computer freezes out of the blue.
> 
> Thanks for the time you took to read this.


You have installed the RAM in wrong slots, you should use slot 2 and 4 slot 2 is the second slot away from your cooler.

Try reset the bios and disable all power saving features like, APM, cool n quiet, C6 state, virtualization, AMD C1E support.

then disable hardware thermal control, its in the pc health stats in your bios. set the CPU PLL voltage control to 2.695v, that will give you cleaner power to your CPU and maybe you can drop the vcore a bit. Also you need to set the NB/PCI-e/PLL voltage control to 1.895, for the same reason as for the CPU.
Also disable one core per compute unit that allows you to use all 8 cores.

If you set these tings in the bios you should not have any problems, if so, post screens shots of your bios and temps under load plz


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I recently was trying to see if I could get my OC on a lower voltage, it crashed and I reset.
> 
> But a couple of days later after resetting, I started stressing again with OCCT, forgetting that I had reset to my "Optimal Defaults".
> 
> Well, it seem to have clocked to 4.7Ghz whilst everything else is stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone experienced similar ? Or can someone explain this ?


4.7GHz on ~1.38-1.4V? What sorcery is this







. I don't know what you did but I want it lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I recently was trying to see if I could get my OC on a lower voltage, it crashed and I reset.
> 
> But a couple of days later after resetting, I started stressing again with OCCT, forgetting that I had reset to my "Optimal Defaults".
> 
> Well, it seem to have clocked to 4.7Ghz whilst everything else is stock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone experienced similar ? Or can someone explain this ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> Hello there.
> 
> I have a noob question that I didn't manage to find an answer to with my poor search skills.
> 
> I got this system that I want to use for some OC, not much but maybe take it 10% up.
> 
> My setup(acquired 1 month ago):
> 
> CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0ghz
> MB: GA-990FXA-UD5 rev 3.0 bios FCb
> RAM: 8GB(2x4GB) Kingston HyperX Predator 1866Mhz with these timings
> • JEDEC: DDR3-1333 CL9-9-9 @1.5V
> • XMP Profile #1: DDR3-1866 CL9-11-9 @1.65V
> • XMP Profile #2: DDR3-1600 CL9-9-9 @1.65V
> they are installed in slots 3 and 4, as I read is necessary to run at 1866Mhz
> PSU: Seasonic G Series 550W (just bought to remove any uncertainty about my 4.5 yo PSU that I had)
> Cooling: Scythe Samurai ZZ with a replaced 2500rpm fan that is supposed very good.
> 
> The UD5 has the option to select which XMP profiles to use and I select the Profile 1 and all looks good.
> 
> My problem is that from time to time my computer freezes. It doesn't care if it's idle or under load.
> 
> I have managed to reproduce this by running Furmark with its built in CPU Burner. I start 8 threads in CPU Burner and then run the 1080p BurnIn test from Furmark and my system either reboots instantly or everything freezes after an arbitrary interval.
> 
> I changed my PSU thinking that age got the better of it just to find that with the new very highly reviewed Seasonic I have the same problem.
> 
> I must mention all CPU related temp hang around 54-56C and GPU when under 100%load stays at 67C with fans at 37% with stock voltages
> 
> I have loaded Bios defaults and then I have raised my VCore by 0.050 offset as some forum thread said and it seems that now I don't get the reboot in Furmark anymore just the random freezes and sometimes freezes in the above mentioned Furmark. Temps went up 1-3C.
> 
> I have attempted to toy with LLC on UltraHigh (as another forum said) but my temps spiked to 75C and I got scared and put it back on auto.
> 
> The only remaining issue that I read about is that it might be something wrong with the RAM. I have run the windows memory test and all went ok.
> 
> I noticed that the UD5 says that it has 4 X1.5V RAM slots and my memory takes 1.65V, and I also read that if I don't select any of the XMP profiles the mobo might not get any good timing values and not boot up.
> 
> So finally to my question: What should my next steps be to debug this issue?
> 
> I am out of funds to buy any other hardware for the foreseeable future so I really, really need to get this setup to work. So I'm not really eager to try anymore of that LLC stuff that almost melted my CPU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure I'm probably doing something stupid that messed stuff up but I can't figure it out. Been at it for a week now and still computer freezes out of the blue.
> 
> Thanks for the time you took to read this.


On mobile can't use spoilers.

First put ram in 2nd and 4th slot from the left.

Second don't use xmp manually set first four timings and voltage. And is not intel and usually won't run intel timings.

Last don't be scared of llc. Use med or the next one up. Let me know if anything else needs help ( you do need to shut off power saving too )


----------



## Recursion

My mainboard died please see my picture. My cmos-reset pins falls off my mainboard and it looks burned. But I uses a multimeter to check the thing and I think it was the case intrusion system where the short-circuit is happen? Is this possible? Can it burn the southbridge or the low-voltage regulator (F1117)? I think the power on button works but I'm not sure!? Is this possible that the cmos-reset pins is connected to the southbridge? Thank you!


----------



## paraddox

Thanks a lost for the fast answers.

I have done all you and @mus1mus suggested.

Default settings and then:

Bios shows me that my RAM are in slot 2 and 4 and are on 2 separate channels.(the manual says the channel I have them set at should be 2 and 1 not 2 and 4 as bios says...oh well)
LLC medium
Vcore +0.000(stays at 1.248 under load)
Ram voltage 1.685V
CPU PLL 2.695V
NB/PCI-e/PLL 1.895
RAM set to 1866mhz
also disabled all optimizations features from BIOS.

After settings these I went to Windows and ran P95 with Furmark for about 40mins and except a little highish temp it all worked fine and before it would have restarted. So 1-0 for me.

After this I did another thing that makes my machine freeze. I started a game called Starforge(by himself it keeps CPU at 35C and GPU at 54C) and then started screen recording software OBS that does on the fly encoding from the screen to mp4.

And this combination almost everytime makes my computer freeze, probably because of the encoding that is VERY cpu intensive.

After it froze and I rebooted I went and set that CPU option to : "one core per CU" so that now I only have 4 cores.(I hope I got that right







)
And also disabled HPET .

Now with these 4cores and no HPET I ran P95 and the Startforge game with the recording app.

How can I take screenshots in the UEFI bios? i see that F12 is the key, but do I need to reboot to windows to paste the ss in notepad like a normal printscreen?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> Thanks a lost for the fast answers.
> 
> I have done all you and @mus1mus suggested.
> 
> Default settings and then:
> 
> *Bios shows me that my RAM are in slot 2 and 4 and are on 2 separate channels.(the manual says the channel I have them set at should be 2 and 1 not 2 and 4 as bios says...oh well)*


Your CPU is capable of dual-chanel memory bus. That's why you need to install the dimms at different channel slots. You will lose speed when you are running them at single channel.
Quote:


> LLC medium
> Vcore +0.000(stays at 1.248 under load)
> Ram voltage 1.685V
> CPU PLL 2.695V
> NB/PCI-e/PLL 1.895
> RAM set to 1866mhz
> also disabled all optimizations features from BIOS.
> 
> After settings these I went to Windows and ran P95 with Furmark for about 40mins and except a little highish temp it all worked fine and before it would have restarted. So 1-0 for me.


This will be the start.









Quote:


> After this I did another thing that makes my machine freeze. I started a game called Starforge(by himself it keeps CPU at 35C and GPU at 54C) and then started screen recording software OBS that does on the fly encoding from the screen to mp4.
> 
> And this combination almost everytime makes my computer freeze, probably because of the encoding that is VERY cpu intensive.


Sounds like instability. Bios screenies will really help..
Quote:


> After it froze and I rebooted I went and set that CPU option to : "one core per CU" so that now I only have 4 cores.(I hope I got that right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> And also disabled HPET .
> 
> Now with these 4cores and no HPET I ran P95 and the Startforge game with the recording app.


Did enabling 1 core per CU solve the issue?

Quote:


> How can I take screenshots in the UEFI bios? i see that F12 is the key, but do I need to reboot to windows to paste the ss in notepad like a normal printscreen?


Grab a USB Stick.
Format it as FAT32
Go into the Bios with it still connected.
On the BIOS, press F12.
wait for a second...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> _*First put ram in 2nd and 4th slot from the left.*_
> 
> Second don't use xmp manually set first four timings and voltage. And is not intel and usually won't run intel timings.
> 
> Last don't be scared of llc. Use med or the next one up. Let me know if anything else needs help ( you do need to shut off power saving too )


as to screenshots, you just need to insert a usb and press f12


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as to screenshots, you just need to insert a usb and press f12


lol nooo

make him get a camera and take pictures of his monitor 

J/K


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

Lo guys, been away for a while. Busy mining and learning about it, takes time but its fun. Now to my question: I have the gigabyte ga-990fx ud5 REV 3.0. Does it really support 3 way crossfire? And i dont use crossfire since im mining anyway. And now i want to use both my r280x cards for 24/7 mining and im thinking of getting a 3rd amd gpu for everyday use, does my mobo support that? And if it does it, wich amd gpu u think i should get? It will only be used for everyday use and the most demanding thing i want it to handle is 2 games, eve online on medium settings and dota 2 medium settings. In other words the cheapest budget amd card that doesnt take alot of watt, cause i dont wanna upgrade my power supply (see sig for my rig details). So wich amd card should i get and will my mobo support a 3rd amd gpu? Must be cheap and dont draw much wattage, must only handle dota 2 medium settings and eve online medium settings with normal fps. And pls from this site (sorry its in swedish) but its my local hardware dealer: http://www.inet.se/kategori/168/amd-radeon . Thanks in advance guys! Ohh and one other thing do you know if there is a upgrade for the gigabyte ud5 rev 3 bios yet? Its been beta bios for over a year now! Ahhh and one more question, can it help to run cpu at stock to save watt for gpu cards, or wont it make a big difference from running my cpu at 5ghz?


----------



## hyp3rtraxx

http://www.inet.se/produkt/5409178/msi-radeon-hd5450-1024mb , found this its the cheapest but its passivbe cooling and i got to much hardware in case i think to keep this card cool, and then i would have to buy a active cooler and then it will cost much more so i dont think it will suite me. I trust you guys oppionions more then my own!


----------



## Chargeit

^^

I'm finally dropping some and messing with overclocking my 780. Was finally able to break 60 fps on Heaven 4.0.



I haven't taken the card to its limits yet or crashed it. Lol, I've babied it, but considering I want to get a 880 when they come out and I've got this R9 270X in my back up rig I figured I can handle a mishap if it happens.

I'm at...

1189 MHz on the boost clock
6400 MHZ Vram

It isn't anything crazy. I should have more headroom on the boost clock, and am fairly sure I can get the Vram up to 7000 MHz.

It's late, and I'm going to save the rest for another day. I don't plan on running at the current OC, but I really need to figure out what this card can take.


----------



## paraddox

With only 4 cores, that "One core per CU" option, I managed to run the game and the recording software for almost half an hour without any freezes.

The last 2 steps I did was disable HPET and set the "One core per CU". So one of them did something.









I didn't manage to take screenshots or test more last night because the baby woke up and everything became a battlefield pretty fast







)

I will post screenshots as soon as I get home tonight.

So if that "One core per CU" fixed my issue, what other settings should I change to make the system stable with 8 cores on?

And about the Dual Channel memory: when it runs in dual channel the system doesn't boot up at 1866Mhz. I need to have them o separate channels to run 1866mhz.

Do you think it would give better performance to put the RAM at 1600Mhz in dual channel?

Also if I'm having this much trouble with my system at stock, do you think this will be capable to overclock to 4.4ghz?

I plan in a few months to get
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Noctua/NH-D15/
for cooling.

I have a dog and 3 cats so I don't want a water cooler anywhere in the mix, because they will manage to get water in my PC for sure....because they are evil







)

Thanks again for all the great info you have supplied me with.

@ebduncan very funny







)).... and I actually thought of that one for a minute there







))


----------



## M3TAl

It might not like the 9.33x memory multiplier. Try it with FSB. 233-234 FSB and 8x memory multi for ~1866 MHz. Remember changing FSB also changesCPU, HT-Link, and CPU-NB.


----------



## paraddox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It might not like the 9.33x memory multiplier. Try it with FSB. 233-234 FSB and 8x memory multi for ~1866 MHz. Remember changing FSB also changesCPU, HT-Link, and CPU-NB.


Than basically my best option would be to put the memory on 1600Mhz with Dual Channel and then overclock the FSB to 1866Mhz?

I didn't want to get into overclocking until I managed to get a stable stock experience first. And then use my unlocked multiplier to OC a little.

But I guess it is worth a try. Should I reload default optimized settings first? Or keep the modified voltages people suggested to me before.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> On mobile can't use spoilers.
> 
> First put ram in 2nd and 4th slot from the left.
> 
> Second don't use xmp manually set first four timings and voltage. And is not intel and usually won't run intel timings.
> 
> Last don't be scared of llc. Use med or the next one up. Let me know if anything else needs help ( you do need to shut off power saving too )


I wanted to do that but then I realized that I don't really know what the values should be for my RAM just copying the ones that XMP set didn't make any sense to me.

http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX18C9T2K2_8X.pdf

this is my exact RAM. could you suggest some values to set?

PS: I'm so buying a laptop next time







))


----------



## mus1mus

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It might not like the 9.33x memory multiplier. Try it with FSB. 233-234 FSB and 8x memory multi for ~1866 MHz. Remember changing FSB also changesCPU, HT-Link, and CPU-NB.






I don't mind the advice but for sure, I'd like the person to have a little taste of stable stock settings first. You may be right. But for sure, it'll make things harder for him.

I'd say try at least the default settings to eliminate what's causing instability. If you are pointing to the RAM, his best bet is to use a much lower Multi for the RAM.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> Than basically my best option would be to put the memory on 1600Mhz with Dual Channel and then overclock the FSB to 1866Mhz?
> 
> I didn't want to get into overclocking until I managed to get a stable stock experience first. And then use my unlocked multiplier to OC a little.
> 
> But I guess it is worth a try. Should I reload default optimized settings first? Or keep the modified voltages people suggested to me before.
> I wanted to do that but then I realized that I don't really know what the values should be for my RAM just copying the ones that XMP set didn't make any sense to me.
> 
> http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX18C9T2K2_8X.pdf
> 
> this is my exact RAM. could you suggest some values to set?
> 
> PS: I'm so buying a laptop next time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ))






It would be better to go into the Bios, Load Default Settings, > Reboot to the Bios, > Disable Power Savings and Turbo, > Adjust the Core Voltage to +0.00 or stock if not on Offset, > Do the same with CPU-NB

Test.

I also think you need a messing with the Memory as dropping to One Core per CU will not give the Cores Stability on the same Voltage. It only consumes about half of the Current (Amps).

But could also be something else.

Try out the RAM at default settings. It will be either 1333 or 1600 as fail safe.

Edit: If you can share screenshots, we can point out the things you need to change on the RAMs..









I'm a year older since I last messed on the timings with my Giga.


----------



## paraddox

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> I don't mind the advice but for sure, I'd like the person to have a little taste of stable stock settings first. You may be right. But for sure, it'll make things harder for him.
> 
> I'd say try at least the default settings to eliminate what's causing instability. If you are pointing to the RAM, his best bet is to use a much lower Multi for the RAM.
> 
> It would be better to go into the Bios, Load Default Settings, > Reboot to the Bios, > Disable Power Savings and Turbo, > Adjust the Core Voltage to +0.00 or stock if not on Offset, > Do the same with CPU-NB
> 
> Test.
> 
> I also think you need a messing with the Memory as dropping to One Core per CU will not give the Cores Stability on the same Voltage. It only consumes about half of the Current (Amps).
> 
> But could also be something else.
> 
> Try out the RAM at default settings. It will be either 1333 or 1600 as fail safe.
> 
> Edit: If you can share screenshots, we can point out the things you need to change on the RAMs..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a year older since I last messed on the timings with my Giga.






Ok.

Once I get home I will:
-reload default optimized settings
-turn off all optimization
-check voltages are default
-set RAM to 1333Mhz; lowest it can go and this speed also uses 1.5V not 1.65V
-look for a USB stick, we just changed houses and everything is in boxes, and take screenshots of the settings in the BIOS.

Also I think can manage to get a better cooler if you think 54-58C is too hot for stock on this cpu
http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-212-evo/ this has good reviews and is cheap.

Thanks.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> 
> Ok.
> 
> Once I get home I will:
> -reload default optimized settings
> -turn off all optimization
> -check voltages are default
> -set RAM to 1333Mhz; lowest it can go and this speed also uses 1.5V not 1.65V
> -look for a USB stick, we just changed houses and everything is in boxes, and take screenshots of the settings in the BIOS.
> 
> Also I think can manage to get a better cooler if you think 54-58C is too hot for stock on this cpu
> http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-air-cooler/hyper-212-evo/ this has good reviews and is cheap.
> 
> Thanks.


There is no need to set the RAM to 1333 because its rated for 1866 native so it should run at that speed, why lowering it?
I have the same board but the rev 1.1 and i have a memory option that let me to select what RAM profile i want to load, when i load profile1 it loads the default settings of my ram, that set the timings and voltages to its stock speed.

If i were you and you have plans to get an Noctua NH-D15 like you said on he previous page i would not waste my money on a CM hyper 212EVO because for the FX chips its not a good cooler and overclocking goes out the window with it.

just reset the bios and disable all the power saving features like i said in the previous post and the PLL and you are ready to run without any problems. If yo have problems take a picture with your phone (if you have an camera on it) and post it here if not, do the USB thing


----------



## hurricane28

BTW @ METAL,

I have exchanged my Sennheiser for the ATH-M50x and its a world of difference i hear tones i never heard before man, they are awesome!

As i come correct you have the previous ones the M50's right? there is a difference between them and not only the removable cable.

The ear cushions are softer and the head band is slightly more comfortable. Also the sound is different because it has the newer drivers.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It might not like the 9.33x memory multiplier. Try it with FSB. 233-234 FSB and 8x memory multi for ~1866 MHz. Remember changing FSB also changesCPU, HT-Link, and CPU-NB.
> 
> 
> 
> Than basically my best option would be to put the memory on 1600Mhz with Dual Channel and then overclock the FSB to 1866Mhz?
> 
> I didn't want to get into overclocking until I managed to get a stable stock experience first. And then use my unlocked multiplier to OC a little.
> 
> But I guess it is worth a try. Should I reload default optimized settings first? Or keep the modified voltages people suggested to me before.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> On mobile can't use spoilers.
> 
> First put ram in 2nd and 4th slot from the left.
> 
> Second don't use xmp manually set first four timings and voltage. And is not intel and usually won't run intel timings.
> 
> Last don't be scared of llc. Use med or the next one up. Let me know if anything else needs help ( you do need to shut off power saving too )
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wanted to do that but then I realized that I don't really know what the values should be for my RAM just copying the ones that XMP set didn't make any sense to me.
> 
> http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX18C9T2K2_8X.pdf
> 
> this is my exact RAM. could you suggest some values to set?
> 
> PS: I'm so buying a laptop next time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ))
Click to expand...

9-11-9 at 1.65V.

Programmable Additive Latency: 0, CL - 2, or CL - 1 clock
Row Active Time (tRASmin) 36ns (min.)
Refresh to Active/Refresh Command Time (tRFCmin)260ns(min.)
Row Cycle Time (tRCmin) 49.5ns (min.)


----------



## paraddox

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> There is no need to set the RAM to 1333 because its rated for 1866 native so it should run at that speed, why lowering it?
> I have the same board but the rev 1.1 and i have a memory option that let me to select what RAM profile i want to load, when i load profile1 it loads the default settings of my ram, that set the timings and voltages to its stock speed.
> 
> If i were you and you have plans to get an Noctua NH-D15 like you said on he previous page i would not waste my money on a CM hyper 212EVO because for the FX chips its not a good cooler and overclocking goes out the window with it.
> 
> just reset the bios and disable all the power saving features like i said in the previous post and the PLL and you are ready to run without any problems. If yo have problems take a picture with your phone (if you have an camera on it) and post it here if not, do the USB thing


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 9-11-9 at 1.65V.
> 
> Programmable Additive Latency: 0, CL - 2, or CL - 1 clock
> Row Active Time (tRASmin) 36ns (min.)
> Refresh to Active/Refresh Command Time (tRFCmin)260ns(min.)
> Row Cycle Time (tRCmin) 49.5ns (min.)






Thanks. I will give this a try also.

@hurricane28 I went from Senheiser to AT also but to ATH-T500 which are lower end but still sounds amazing.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> 
> Thanks. I will give this a try also.
> 
> @hurricane28 I went from Senheiser to AT also but to ATH-T500 which are lower end but still sounds amazing.


Good luck man.

I tried several Sennheiser in the same price range and IMO they sound not that great at all compare to my ATH-M50x, yes they are expensive but you get what you pay for and that is outstanding sound and the build quality overall is also better.

It does not matter if they are lower-end because it all depends on what you like so if you are happy with them thats great because that's the thing isn't it


----------



## mus1mus

Spoiler: spoilers on mobile



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> There is no need to set the RAM to 1333 because its rated for 1866 native so it should run at that speed, why lowering it?
> I have the same board but the rev 1.1 and i have a memory option that let me to select what RAM profile i want to load, when i load profile1 it loads the default settings of my ram, that set the timings and voltages to its stock speed.
> 
> If i were you and you have plans to get an Noctua NH-D15 like you said on he previous page i would not waste my money on a CM hyper 212EVO because for the FX chips its not a good cooler and overclocking goes out the window with it.
> 
> just reset the bios and disable all the power saving features like i said in the previous post and the PLL and you are ready to run without any problems. If yo have problems take a picture with your phone (if you have an camera on it) and post it here if not, do the USB thing






He's having some issue running at stock. Needs to pinpoint what's causing the rebbots and black screens.

Also D15 might be good, but there's still supply issues. They're not yet available last time I heard. I'd say pick the silver arrow extremes. High speed/cfm fans. Can hangout with the aios at full tilt. Just noisy, and needs a helluva big case.

I would gladly sell my SA for a little more than the 212 if I'm just in the US.

Save your money, grab some used custom loop when you get a chance, or an aio. Just cage the pets.









On that note, our cat doesn't and haven't even tried touching my computer laid down the floor with the panels open.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Headphones
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck man.
> 
> I tried several Sennheiser in the same price range and IMO they sound not that great at all compare to my ATH-M50x, yes they are expensive but you get what you pay for and that is outstanding sound and the build quality overall is also better.
> 
> 
> 
> It does not matter if they are lower-end because it all depends on what you like so if you are happy with them thats great because that's the thing isn't it


Well, man, you hit this right. Sound quality is subjective.
As long as you enjoy your purchase, you won't regret it.
For you to differentiate it from a better one will require some good ears. And side by side testing.


----------



## paraddox

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> He's having some issue running at stock. Needs to pinpoint what's causing the rebbots and black screens.
> 
> Also D15 might be good, but there's still supply issues. They're not yet available last time I heard. I'd say pick the silver arrow extremes. High speed/cfm fans. Can hangout with the aios at full tilt. Just noisy, and needs a helluva big case.
> 
> I would gladly sell my SA for a little more than the 212 if I'm just in the US.
> 
> Save your money, grab some used custom loop when you get a chance, or an aio. Just cage the pets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On that note, our cat doesn't and haven't even tried touching my computer laid down the floor with the panels open.
> Well, man, you hit this right. Sound quality is subjective.
> As long as you enjoy your purchase, you won't regret it.
> For you to differentiate it from a better one will require some good ears. And side by side testing.






One of my cats(we have 3) used to sleep on my tower, until I got a tower with upward blowing fans







))
And the cables in the back of the tower make for some nice toys in their eyes.







)

I have spent the last few hours reading about cooling systems and it seems that the D15 might not be worth the money. In the same money I can get a Corsair H110 that beats the hell out of all aircoolers and also doesn't block my first PCIE slot or any RAM slots.

There is this website with reviews that has some very professionals tests, but it's only in Romanian, lab501.ro and the guys there were saying that Noctua's latest products don't fare very well on high TDPs compared to SA or aio's. And from experience with other products they review and I bought I kind of trust them.

I just need to cut a nice spot for a H110 in my case because I can place 2x120mm fans and this guy is 2x140mm







) but with a little modding it will fit and I can also hide the liquid tubes inside the tower to keep them safe from the cats....muhaha









I wanted to get a CM 212 Evo as a temp solution for the next 5-6months since it costs less that 1/3 of the H110 or D15 but I guess I'll just wait it out.

I just read that my current cooler supports AM3 not AM3+ slots. Could that create any problems? I don't think there are structural differences between these two.

Since I have a really bad ear for music, the ATH-T500 is an awesome product for me, because I can wear them 4-5hours straight without any discomfort (I have a large head) and compared to all consumer headphones in the price range they sound amazing.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> He's having some issue running at stock. Needs to pinpoint what's causing the rebbots and black screens.
> 
> Also D15 might be good, but there's still supply issues. They're not yet available last time I heard. I'd say pick the silver arrow extremes. High speed/cfm fans. Can hangout with the aios at full tilt. Just noisy, and needs a helluva big case.
> 
> I would gladly sell my SA for a little more than the 212 if I'm just in the US.
> 
> Save your money, grab some used custom loop when you get a chance, or an aio. Just cage the pets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On that note, our cat doesn't and haven't even tried touching my computer laid down the floor with the panels open.
> Well, man, you hit this right. Sound quality is subjective.
> As long as you enjoy your purchase, you won't regret it.
> For you to differentiate it from a better one will require some good ears. And side by side testing.


Thnx man, well yes that's the thing isn't it, i man, before i purchase something high tech i would like to do some research before i actually but it to prevent disappointment later.

with the Sennheiser i did not read reviews and only listen to it in the store witch is always set to the optimal conditions and in most cases you never experience the same when you are at home.
For the ATH i did and it really pays of now because i am happy with my purchase, I payed like 55 euro's more but IMO that is cheaper than the 99 euro costing Sennheiser because i was not happy with its overall performance and now i am







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> He's having some issue running at stock. Needs to pinpoint what's causing the rebbots and black screens.
> 
> Also D15 might be good, but there's still supply issues. They're not yet available last time I heard. I'd say pick the silver arrow extremes. High speed/cfm fans. Can hangout with the aios at full tilt. Just noisy, and needs a helluva big case.
> 
> I would gladly sell my SA for a little more than the 212 if I'm just in the US.
> 
> Save your money, grab some used custom loop when you get a chance, or an aio. Just cage the pets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On that note, our cat doesn't and haven't even tried touching my computer laid down the floor with the panels open.
> Well, man, you hit this right. Sound quality is subjective.
> As long as you enjoy your purchase, you won't regret it.
> For you to differentiate it from a better one will require some good ears. And side by side testing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> 
> One of my cats(we have 3) used to sleep on my tower, until I got a tower with upward blowing fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ))
> And the cables in the back of the tower make for some nice toys in their eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> I have spent the last few hours reading about cooling systems and it seems that the D15 might not be worth the money. In the same money I can get a Corsair H110 that beats the hell out of all aircoolers and also doesn't block my first PCIE slot or any RAM slots.
> 
> There is this website with reviews that has some very professionals tests, but it's only in Romanian, lab501.ro and the guys there were saying that Noctua's latest products don't fare very well on high TDPs compared to SA or aio's. And from experience with other products they review and I bought I kind of trust them.
> 
> I just need to cut a nice spot for a H110 in my case because I can place 2x120mm fans and this guy is 2x140mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but with a little modding it will fit and I can also hide the liquid tubes inside the tower to keep them safe from the cats....muhaha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to get a CM 212 Evo as a temp solution for the next 5-6months since it costs less that 1/3 of the H110 or D15 but I guess I'll just wait it out.
> 
> I just read that my current cooler supports AM3 not AM3+ slots. Could that create any problems? I don't think there are structural differences between these two.
> 
> Since I have a really bad ear for music, the ATH-T500 is an awesome product for me, because I can wear them 4-5hours straight without any discomfort (I have a large head) and compared to all consumer headphones in the price range they sound amazing.


you can run H100i or a slim 240mm rad in push/pull also if you have the space, I have the H100i in push/pull with the standard fans that comes with it and the performance is actually very good.
I did push/pull because i can set it to quiet mode in the Corsair link and still have good temps under load, if i have only 2 fans i needed balanced mode and man, those fans are loud at full blast.
You can get an H105 as well, the performance of that is on par with the H110 because of its thicker rad and less fin density. Also its cheaper over here.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> *Thnx man, well yes that's the thing isn't it, i man, before i purchase something high tech i would like to do some research before i actually but it to prevent disappointment later.
> 
> with the Sennheiser i did not read reviews and only listen to it in the store witch is always set to the optimal conditions and in most cases you never experience the same when you are at home.
> For the ATH i did and it really pays of now because i am happy with my purchase, I payed like 55 euro's more but IMO that is cheaper than the 99 euro costing Sennheiser because i was not happy with its overall performance and now i am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 
> you can run H100i or a slim 240mm rad in push/pull also if you have the space, I have the H100i in push/pull with the standard fans that comes with it and the performance is actually very good.
> I did push/pull because i can set it to quiet mode in the Corsair link and still have good temps under load, if i have only 2 fans i needed balanced mode and man, those fans are loud at full blast.
> You can get an H105 as well, the performance of that is on par with the H110 because of its thicker rad and less fin density. Also its cheaper over here.


After spending most of my 30 years of existence in Audio, I'd say I somewhat came to a level where I can discern what's a good sound and what's not sounding Natural and flat. But it's never of a pro level. I can tune a system to sound good for me but people might hear em differently.

You can work out to make a cheap system sound as natural as they can but you'll have to understand there are lot of factors limiting you to do so. Equipment, environment and stuff. I've learned from a tech once that for you to tune your sound quality, pick a properly tuned instrument and imitate that in to your system.

Anyway, here's my daily "CAN" . It's a neat sounding headphone that produces loud enough output from my N7 2013's built-in player. (No mods nor equalization here) but it's weak points were Punch and Attack. The Bass is missing some of the lo-mids (around 250 Hz) and the suddenness on the mid-highs (3KHz) that I am gasping for for the Rock and Metals. But it's very well relaxing to my ears on Alternatives and the Vocals were crisp and pure.

For the Price, I can't and have nothing to clamor about it. Maybe a little punch on the Bass and a little muted hardware noise could make this better but that's just about it. The Pads were comfortable on my big head, the sound is not harsh, the volume is just enough. I mean, I could not ask for more.









I just need some isolation when using the public transport (I don't care, can't hear you say) and enjoy some refreshing tunes each morning.

And yes, the cables were very long! But I braided 'em.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> After spending most of my 30 years of existence in Audio, I'd say I somewhat came to a level where I can discern what's a good sound and what's not sounding Natural and flat. But it's never of a pro level. I can tune a system to sound good for me but people might hear em differently.
> 
> You can work out to make a cheap system sound as natural as they can but you'll have to understand there are lot of factors limiting you to do so. Equipment, environment and stuff. I've learned from a tech once that for you to tune your sound quality, pick a properly tuned instrument and imitate that in to your system.
> 
> Anyway, here's my daily "CAN" . It's a neat sounding headphone that produces loud enough output from my N7 2013's built-in player. (No mods nor equalization here) but it's weak points were Punch and Attack. The Bass is missing some of the lo-mids (around 250 Hz) and the suddenness on the mid-highs (3KHz) that I am gasping for for the Rock and Metals. But it's very well relaxing to my ears on Alternatives and the Vocals were crisp and pure.
> 
> For the Price, I can't and have nothing to clamor about it. Maybe a little punch on the Bass and a little muted hardware noise could make this better but that's just about it. The Pads were comfortable on my big head, the sound is not harsh, the volume is just enough. I mean, I could not ask for more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just need some isolation when using the public transport (I don't care, can't hear you say) and enjoy some refreshing tunes each morning.
> 
> And yes, the cables were very long! But I braided 'em.


I agree man, nothing to add more









I did a benchmark with my 250Gb EVO ssd with the new samsung magician and this is what i got.


Pretty awesome if you ask me








Also i think i will buy better cooling or some more RAM but cannot decide yet because i can only spend the money once lol


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> BTW @ METAL,
> 
> I have exchanged my Sennheiser for the ATH-M50x and its a world of difference i hear tones i never heard before man, they are awesome!
> 
> As i come correct you have the previous ones the M50's right? there is a difference between them and not only the removable cable.
> 
> The ear cushions are softer and the head band is slightly more comfortable. Also the sound is different because it has the newer drivers.


New drivers? Wish I had a pair to compare. Maybe I'll check them out once I'm ready to upgrade. My headband is really deteriorating.


----------



## paraddox

@mus1mus @hurricane28@Mega Man

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BygZaJ9MKtZ-MWI5N3h0c2ZvQjQ&usp=sharing

I have taken BIOS screenshots and an actual photo with my phone of the voltages and temps I had when my computer froze with the BIOS settings in the other photos.
I usually keep some of these monitoring apps open on my second screen to see if my temps go berserk or such.

hope the sharing works fine from my Google Drive.

If I missed some screen from BIOS that has useful info please let me know.









At the moment I have in Bios all the settings that all of you have recommended but I still get the computer freezing.

I have run IBT AVX for about 10minutes for maximum stress and except some 60C on my CPU all else worked fine, but in games with the recording tool on I get freezes every time after 0-300seconds

Please help









Edit: you'll see I have tried to OC it a little thinking maybe it I have more power my CPU won't get to 100% and freeze, but it didn't really matter.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> New drivers? Wish I had a pair to compare. Maybe I'll check them out once I'm ready to upgrade. My headband is really deteriorating.


Yeah the guy from the music store i bought them from said so and on the Internet they say it too so i suppose they are right









I always listen to a head phone before i buy them simply because i do not want to get tangled in sending it back and order new ones.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> New drivers? Wish I had a pair to compare. Maybe I'll check them out once I'm ready to upgrade. My headband is really deteriorating.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> @mus1mus @hurricane28@Mega Man
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BygZaJ9MKtZ-MWI5N3h0c2ZvQjQ&usp=sharing
> 
> I have taken BIOS screenshots and an actual photo with my phone of the voltages and temps I had when my computer froze with the BIOS settings in the other photos.
> I usually keep some of these monitoring apps open on my second screen to see if my temps go berserk or such.
> 
> hope the sharing works fine from my Google Drive.
> 
> If I missed some screen from BIOS that has useful info please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment I have in Bios all the settings that all of you have recommended but I still get the computer freezing.
> 
> I have run IBT AVX for about 10minutes for maximum stress and except some 60C on my CPU all else worked fine, but in games with the recording tool on I get freezes every time after 0-300seconds
> 
> Please help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: you'll see I have tried to OC it a little thinking maybe it I have more power my CPU won't get to 100% and freeze, but it didn't really matter.


I think i spotted your problem, you are running 4.3 at very low volts and also your RAM is not set correctly. Try to load the stock XMP profile that set the RAM to its rated speed and set the CPU to 4.0Ghz and start from there.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> @mus1mus @hurricane28@Mega Man
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BygZaJ9MKtZ-MWI5N3h0c2ZvQjQ&usp=sharing
> 
> I have taken BIOS screenshots and an actual photo with my phone of the voltages and temps I had when my computer froze with the BIOS settings in the other photos.
> I usually keep some of these monitoring apps open on my second screen to see if my temps go berserk or such.
> 
> hope the sharing works fine from my Google Drive.
> 
> If I missed some screen from BIOS that has useful info please let me know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment I have in Bios all the settings that all of you have recommended but I still get the computer freezing.
> 
> I have run IBT AVX for about 10minutes for maximum stress and except some 60C on my CPU all else worked fine, but in games with the recording tool on I get freezes every time after 0-300seconds
> 
> Please help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: you'll see I have tried to OC it a little thinking maybe it I have more power my CPU won't get to 100% and freeze, but it didn't really matter.


NB/PCIE/PLL volts are way too high.

at most you want 1.805-1.81v this controls your fsb and having it at almost 1.9v will push your fsb way high ! which can cause issues.

Set NB volts to 1.2

your dram volts are low in hwinfo . bump it one more time ( "+" once ) when mine hits below 1.65 it insta freezes under load
set dram trc to 49.5 ( to 50 )
tras to 36

i dont see it, try to find tRFC 260ns


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> NB/PCIE/PLL volts are way too high.
> 
> at most you want 1.805-1.81v this controls your fsb and having it at almost 1.9v will push your fsb way high ! which can cause issues.
> 
> Set NB volts to 1.2
> 
> your dram volts are low in hwinfo . bump it one more time ( "+" once ) when mine hits below 1.65 it insta freezes under load
> set dram trc to 49.5 ( to 50 )
> tras to 36
> 
> i dont see it, try to find tRFC 260ns


I have those PLL voltages and haven't had any problems with it.. if i come correct someone in this thread told me to raise it that high because it provides better power delivery to the VRMs etc.

His dram is standard 1.5V and in HWmonitor i see 1.644 so that would be no problem. You have G.Skill dram that is standard 1.65V thats quite different..


----------



## paraddox

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I think i spotted your problem, you are running 4.3 at very low volts and also your RAM is not set correctly. Try to load the stock XMP profile that set the RAM to its rated speed and set the CPU to 4.0Ghz and start from there.






I got back to 4.0GHz and put the 1866Mhz XMP profile, and then upped VCore by 0.050 and set LLC to High.

This gave a computer that was stable through 10 runs of IBT AVX at Very High and 2 hours of OCCT load test at 59C.

But then I started Minecraft and loaded a world and left it to idle until I went to take a shower and it was frozen when I came back.

I can only assume that I didn't give enough voltage yet. I saw around the net that people have 1.375VID for this CPU and for some reason I have 1.300v that drops to 1.248v at 0.000offset.

But that doesn't make sense because it froze when only had like 40% max load on 1 core and the rest were at 10-15% , after it ran 2.5 hours at full load without problems.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> NB/PCIE/PLL volts are way too high.
> 
> at most you want 1.805-1.81v this controls your fsb and having it at almost 1.9v will push your fsb way high ! which can cause issues.
> 
> Set NB volts to 1.2
> 
> your dram volts are low in hwinfo . bump it one more time ( "+" once ) when mine hits below 1.65 it insta freezes under load
> set dram trc to 49.5 ( to 50 )
> tras to 36
> 
> i dont see it, try to find tRFC 260ns






I will try today:

NB/PCIE/PLL volts - 1.81 V

Is it NBcore or NB voltage that should be set to 1.2V ? and what should the other one be set to?

I will set the DRAM voltage to 1.7V so as to get 1.65+ after vdrop. now I have it at 1.685.

I will leave the RAM on the XMP profile at first and if that does not work, I will set the suggested values for the RAM also.

Is it possible that my machine needs higher voltages for stock that I can't provide because of my poor cooling? If so, would it help to lower my multiplier to 15 (3.0ghz) and increase the Vcore offset?

these are the results of one of my OCCT runs, if you think there is some info there.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BygZaJ9MKtZ-TExrcUg5OE1HOFU&usp=sharing

I am really trying to figure out how to get the money for a H105, cause it seems that is the best option for this CPU. with a 5years warranty on top.

Thanks again for all the help.


----------



## M3TAl

I messed with NB/PCIE/PLL voltage once... just for fun. It did some really weird things to my system. The GFLOPS in IBT dropped MASSIVELY just from the voltage increase. It was really weird.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> 
> I got back to 4.0GHz and put the 1866Mhz XMP profile, and then upped VCore by 0.050 and set LLC to High.
> 
> This gave a computer that was stable through 10 runs of IBT AVX at Very High and 2 hours of OCCT load test at 59C.
> 
> But then I started Minecraft and loaded a world and left it to idle until I went to take a shower and it was frozen when I came back.
> 
> I can only assume that I didn't give enough voltage yet. I saw around the net that people have 1.375VID for this CPU and for some reason I have 1.300v that drops to 1.248v at 0.000offset.
> 
> But that doesn't make sense because it froze when only had like 40% max load on 1 core and the rest were at 10-15% , after it ran 2.5 hours at full load without problems.
> 
> 
> I will try today:
> 
> NB/PCIE/PLL volts - 1.81 V
> 
> Is it NBcore or NB voltage that should be set to 1.2V ? and what should the other one be set to?
> 
> I will set the DRAM voltage to 1.7V so as to get 1.65+ after vdrop. now I have it at 1.685.
> 
> I will leave the RAM on the XMP profile at first and if that does not work, I will set the suggested values for the RAM also.
> 
> Is it possible that my machine needs higher voltages for stock that I can't provide because of my poor cooling? If so, would it help to lower my multiplier to 15 (3.0ghz) and increase the Vcore offset?
> 
> these are the results of one of my OCCT runs, if you think there is some info there.
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BygZaJ9MKtZ-TExrcUg5OE1HOFU&usp=sharing
> 
> I am really trying to figure out how to get the money for a H105, cause it seems that is the best option for this CPU. with a 5years warranty on top.
> 
> Thanks again for all the help.


Have tried refitting your cooler? Apply just the right amount of TIM. Sorry, but I think you won't be getting that temp unless you have a bad mount.

Also, what LLC are you using right now? If you can, try upping the Vcore offset a step then back down the LLC (if at high, try medium) or the other way, up the LLC (if at medium, try high without any addition to the Vcore)

What I am asking is for you to observe the Vcore tendencies. As you can see, Vcore offsets are at 0.025. My UD3's VCore reacts with LLC in a way that I can get finer voltage steps. 0.0125 to be exact.

Look at how Vcore reacts from changing the LLC settings.











The image above came from your screenshots. That is under the memory settings.

Just a note, I am setting the Driver Compensation Control to Max values. And the one on the bottom Address Command Control, I set them all to minimum. I can't get stability without those on my ud3. You can try or not. Your call









I am running almost the same sticks as yours by the way.


----------



## paraddox

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Have tried refitting your cooler? Apply just the right amount of TIM. Sorry, but I think you won't be getting that temp unless you have a bad mount.
> 
> Also, what LLC are you using right now? If you can, try upping the Vcore offset a step then back down the LLC (if at high, try medium) or the other way, up the LLC (if at medium, try high without any addition to the Vcore)
> 
> What I am asking is for you to observe the Vcore tendencies. As you can see, Vcore offsets are at 0.025. My UD3's VCore reacts with LLC in a way that I can get finer voltage steps. 0.0125 to be exact.
> 
> Look at how Vcore reacts from changing the LLC settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The image above came from your screenshots. That is under the memory settings.
> 
> Just a note, I am setting the Driver Compensation Control to Max values. And the one on the bottom Address Command Control, I set them all to minimum. I can't get stability without those on my ud3. You can try or not. Your call
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am running almost the same sticks as yours by the way.






I set out to check if all hardware is placed correctly and I did. All good.

Tried to remove cooler from CPU: it seems Arctic Silver 5 is a very nice glue and it ripped my CPU out of its socket. I managed to fit it back in, put the amount of TIM suggested by Arctic and start the whole thing. Seems to work ok.

I reloaded default BIOS and turned off all cool stuff. Now my CPU on stock voltages stays at max 50 when running Prim95.
I tried to run my problem game and the recording software and it froze after 10 seconds with both on. All temps where very low.

I then started to tinker with LLC and VCore and for offset 0.025 and LLC - medium temps go up to 56C with Prime95. My VCore goes between 1.260-1.272V.

Arctic Silver 5 needs 200hours to take effect fully and they say there can be 5-8 degrees of difference from the time you put it on and when is fully operational.

I can probably go one offset higher and still be in safe temp margins at the moment and in 1-2 days I can go another one.

This is how my system looks like. I have a 140mm Cougar something fan on the side panel also.

I have noticed the back fan is useless. Can't feel no flow on either side.

If I don't get a H105 soon, I'll probably get 2 Noctua fans: a 92mm one for the cpu cooler and a 120mm one for the back. Those should get my temps down by a few degrees.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I think i spotted your problem, you are running 4.3 at very low volts and also your RAM is not set correctly. Try to load the stock XMP profile that set the RAM to its rated speed and set the CPU to 4.0Ghz and start from there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got back to 4.0GHz and put the 1866Mhz XMP profile, and then upped VCore by 0.050 and set LLC to High.
> 
> This gave a computer that was stable through 10 runs of IBT AVX at Very High and 2 hours of OCCT load test at 59C.
> 
> But then I started Minecraft and loaded a world and left it to idle until I went to take a shower and it was frozen when I came back.
> 
> I can only assume that I didn't give enough voltage yet. I saw around the net that people have 1.375VID for this CPU and for some reason I have 1.300v that drops to 1.248v at 0.000offset.
> 
> But that doesn't make sense because it froze when only had like 40% max load on 1 core and the rest were at 10-15% , after it ran 2.5 hours at full load without problems.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> NB/PCIE/PLL volts are way too high.
> 
> at most you want 1.805-1.81v this controls your fsb and having it at almost 1.9v will push your fsb way high ! which can cause issues.
> 
> Set NB volts to 1.2
> 
> your dram volts are low in hwinfo . bump it one more time ( "+" once ) when mine hits below 1.65 it insta freezes under load
> set dram trc to 49.5 ( to 50 )
> tras to 36
> 
> i dont see it, try to find tRFC 260ns
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try today:
> 
> NB/PCIE/PLL volts - 1.81 V
> 
> Is it NBcore or NB voltage that should be set to 1.2V ? and what should the other one be set to?
> 
> I will set the DRAM voltage to 1.7V so as to get 1.65+ after vdrop. now I have it at 1.685.
> 
> I will leave the RAM on the XMP profile at first and if that does not work, I will set the suggested values for the RAM also.
> 
> Is it possible that my machine needs higher voltages for stock that I can't provide because of my poor cooling? If so, would it help to lower my multiplier to 15 (3.0ghz) and increase the Vcore offset?
> 
> these are the results of one of my OCCT runs, if you think there is some info there.
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BygZaJ9MKtZ-TExrcUg5OE1HOFU&usp=sharing
> 
> I am really trying to figure out how to get the money for a H105, cause it seems that is the best option for this CPU. with a 5years warranty on top.
> 
> Thanks again for all the help.
Click to expand...

any time !~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> NB/PCIE/PLL volts are way too high.
> 
> at most you want 1.805-1.81v this controls your fsb and having it at almost 1.9v will push your fsb way high ! which can cause issues.
> 
> Set NB volts to 1.2
> 
> your dram volts are low in hwinfo . bump it one more time ( "+" once ) when mine hits below 1.65 it insta freezes under load
> set dram trc to 49.5 ( to 50 )
> tras to 36
> 
> i dont see it, try to find tRFC 260ns
> 
> 
> 
> I have those PLL voltages and haven't had any problems with it.. if i come correct someone in this thread told me to raise it that high because it provides better power delivery to the VRMs etc.
> 
> His dram is standard 1.5V and in HWmonitor i see 1.644 so that would be no problem. You have G.Skill dram that is standard 1.65V thats quite different..
Click to expand...

you are correct i assumed that it was 1.65 due to how high his voltage was,

however with that said ram can also act weird with too much volts, so he should try putting back at stock, i know most miracle sammies ram hat too much voltage and many users can not get stable over a certain voltage ( that idr off the top of my head )

with that said, and the extensive testing i have done with the 1.8v my recommendation stands ~!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It might not like the 9.33x memory multiplier. Try it with FSB. 233-234 FSB and 8x memory multi for ~1866 MHz. Remember changing FSB also changesCPU, HT-Link, and CPU-NB.
> 
> 
> 
> Than basically my best option would be to put the memory on 1600Mhz with Dual Channel and then overclock the FSB to 1866Mhz?
> 
> I didn't want to get into overclocking until I managed to get a stable stock experience first. And then use my unlocked multiplier to OC a little.
> 
> But I guess it is worth a try. Should I reload default optimized settings first? Or keep the modified voltages people suggested to me before.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> On mobile can't use spoilers.
> 
> First put ram in 2nd and 4th slot from the left.
> 
> Second don't use xmp manually set first four timings and voltage. And is not intel and usually won't run intel timings.
> 
> Last don't be scared of llc. Use med or the next one up. Let me know if anything else needs help ( you do need to shut off power saving too )
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I wanted to do that but then I realized that I don't really know what the values should be for my RAM just copying the ones that XMP set didn't make any sense to me.
> 
> http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/KHX18C9T2K2_8X.pdf
> 
> this is my exact RAM. could you suggest some values to set?
> 
> PS: I'm so buying a laptop next time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ))
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 9-11-9 at 1.65V.
> 
> Programmable Additive Latency: 0, CL - 2, or CL - 1 clock
> Row Active Time (tRASmin) 36ns (min.)
> Refresh to Active/Refresh Command Time (tRFCmin)260ns(min.)
> Row Cycle Time (tRCmin) 49.5ns (min.)
Click to expand...

ps you should stress your system for ~ 5 min, before removing cooler or use a hair dryer on it, it heats up the tim and keeps your cpu a little more safe. when you pull out your cpu like that some have bent/broke pins on them heating it up causes the tim to be more fluid rather then solid ( state not actual liquid ) but yea it does help


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> ps you should stress your system for ~ 5 min, before removing cooler or use a hair dryer on it, it heats up the tim and keeps your cpu a little more safe. when you pull out your cpu like that some have bent/broke pins on them heating it up causes the tim to be more fluid rather then solid ( state not actual liquid ) but yea it does help


no need for that.

all you have to do is twist the cooler back and forth once or twice instead of pulling straight up. I suppose if you have a strange mounting system where this isn't possible you can do your method.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ps you should stress your system for ~ 5 min, before removing cooler or use a hair dryer on it, it heats up the tim and keeps your cpu a little more safe. when you pull out your cpu like that some have bent/broke pins on them heating it up causes the tim to be more fluid rather then solid ( state not actual liquid ) but yea it does help
> 
> 
> 
> no need for that.
> 
> all you have to do is twist the cooler back and forth once or twice instead of pulling straight up. I suppose if you have a strange mounting system where this isn't possible you can do your method.
Click to expand...

it does not work with all tims at least for me, heating them up however does


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> any time !~
> you are correct i assumed that it was 1.65 due to how high his voltage was,
> 
> 
> however with that said ram can also act weird with too much volts, so he should try putting back at stock, i know most miracle sammies ram hat too much voltage and many users can not get stable over a certain voltage ( that idr off the top of my head )
> 
> with that said, and the extensive testing i have done with the 1.8v my recommendation stands ~!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ps you should stress your system for ~ 5 min, before removing cooler or use a hair dryer on it, it heats up the tim and keeps your cpu a little more safe. when you pull out your cpu like that some have bent/broke pins on them heating it up causes the tim to be more fluid rather then solid ( state not actual liquid ) but yea it does help


Indeed. I backed down my RAM Voltage to 1.65 (rated) and loosened my timings because of one simple thing;

Running it at 1.75 produces temp spikes on my core. Weird acting temps to be exact. I can only assume it's also instability.

Also, on the NB/PCIE/ PLL, at 1.8100 at the moment on my Kitty. Even tried it up to 2.1 but yeah. It did actually limits the FSB swings. But not completely out. Stable enough though.
















I might also add; maybe it's just my board and GPU combo but, PCIe Voltage raised my GPU scores







Currently at 1.35.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it does not work with all tims at least for me, heating them up however does


low viscosity TIMs make it hard to pull the Heatsink from an AMD CPU.

Deepcool
PK-1
both makes a tight seal between the lid and the hs. hard not pull the cpu out of the socket.









Chill Factor
GC-Extreme
thicker and appear to be more powdery. Doesn't need a twisting in my experience.


----------



## hurricane28

I only use non curing, non conductive TIM like the MX-4 i use for quite some time now and very happy with.

NEVER just pull on the heat sink if you want to do maintenance on your PC, you might as well pull the socket right of the motherboard. I first push the heat sink to the side to make sure there can get some air between the heat sink and the CPU than i make an twist/pull motion, if you do it like that there is not much force needed and you spare the socket/CPU.

You can get away with some force for one maybe 2 times but maybe the 3rd time you damage you components. Better save than sorry right?


----------



## paraddox

I was at fault for it sticking. I applied Arctic Silver 5 the same way I used to apply my old TIM a few years ago: 5 points, center and corners, instead of 1 in the center as Arctic recommends.

And that actually made it really sticky. And then I tried to remove with the CPU being cold. Another stupid move.

I pulled hard on it because it has a stupid mounting system that sometimes gets stuck and I thought that was the case.

I need to take my PC apart more often than when something breaks or needs to be upgraded







)

I did apply the TIM properly now







and I did get better temps from the start.

What I did that actually got me stable load tests and actually managed to run game+recording for 5 minutes straight until it froze( this is the longest so far).
-DRAM voltage to 1.700V
-VCore - +0.050
-LLC- medium
-NB voltage - 1.2V
-CPU PLL - 2.695V
-NB\PCI\PLL - 1.810V

( After my previous post the VCore for that setup was between 1.260-1.308V)

All is stable in P95, OCCT, IBT AVX. and my actual Vcore was kept between 1.272-1.308V and DRAM voltage 1.656V .

Not sure how to check how the other voltages because those that I see in my tools are different from what I set in BIOS. They either seem to have a huge Vdrop or VBoost.

I think maybe I need to up the VCore a little more, but that would get me to around 60-62C when running load tests.

I think that would be better because VCore 0.050 and LLC medium got my voltage variations smaller than Vcore 0.025 and LLC medium, so I guess more VCore is needed , no?

I left my computer running MemTest86 overnight. I wonder what will the results be. I read that this tool usually finds faulty RAM modules.

PS: I am not insisting on my game+recording tool because I MUST play that game or use that tool but because it is a way for me to reproduce instability







.


----------



## hurricane28

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hNgFNH7zhQ

That is IMO the best way to explain how apply thermal paste and how it spreads









Please make an signature in rigbuilder so we know what components you are using http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

I think your dram voltage is a little high, try to set it at 1.5 volts that is the stock volts.

You are also on the stock cooler so i an highly recommend to get a good after market heat sink to keep it cooler and maybe some good overclocks if you have adequate cooling.


----------



## paraddox

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hNgFNH7zhQ
> 
> That is IMO the best way to explain how apply thermal paste and how it spreads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please make an signature in rigbuilder so we know what components you are using http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
> 
> I think your dram voltage is a little high, try to set it at 1.5 volts that is the stock volts.
> 
> You are also on the stock cooler so i an highly recommend to get a good after market heat sink to keep it cooler and maybe some good overclocks if you have adequate cooling.






My RAM needs 1.65V to run at 1866Mhz, or that is written on the producers website.

Also I'm not on the stock cooler but I have a very poor fan on my cooler, that I am thinking of changing with a Noctua one if I don't get a H105 liquid cooling next week.

I will add a Rig once I get home, cause I don't know all details by heart.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-hNgFNH7zhQ
> 
> That is IMO the best way to explain how apply thermal paste and how it spreads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please make an signature in rigbuilder so we know what components you are using http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
> 
> I think your dram voltage is a little high, try to set it at 1.5 volts that is the stock volts.
> 
> You are also on the stock cooler so i an highly recommend to get a good after market heat sink to keep it cooler and maybe some good overclocks if you have adequate cooling.


no no no... it is this video !!!


----------



## paraddox

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no no no... it is this video !!!






OMG!!! it's exactly how I did it.







))


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no no no... it is this video !!!


whaha yeah, thats how you get things done the Kentucky way


----------



## Chargeit

I'm going to be oc'ing both my CPU again (well at least find out stable settings) and decided to bench them both stock using "Real Bench 1.1" before starting. I already had this version and decided against dling the newer one since I'm mainly worried about seeing the affects of the overclocks...

Here are the results...

Both ran off of SSD
FX 8320 8gb 1600 ram
i7-4770k 16gb 1866 ram (advantage here)

FX 8320 results



i7-4770k results



I'll post later when I have my OC tests in. I'm not sure how much luck I'll have the the 4770k since that sucker seems to be a cruddy OC'er. The 8320 shouldn't be bad since I already know what to expect from it.










Here are the results after some quick OC'ing... Of course they aren't fully stability tested.

FX 8320 @ 4.4



i7-4770k @ 4.2



Sorry I didn't have them the same clock, but I just used some "MUST WORK" settings for the 4770k. The issue is, if I want it to lower it's Vcore while idle I have to switch to adaptive which then causes things to become unstable.

Also, the ram in my 4770k rig is faster, so that has to have some impact. Still, I'm more worried about seeing how much the OC improves it, over comparing a CPU i paid $145 for to one I paid $310 for.

**The OC seems to really benefit the FX 8320, especially in "Image Editing" which knocks something like 50 seconds off the time. I'm fairly sure that test is based on single core performance.

***The 4770k Crashed after about 15 min of stress testing at the settings I benched. Damned thing doesn't like to be overclocked.


----------



## Regnitto

Hey, that's a nice compro test you got going on there. I'd definitely be interested in seeing the final outcome. I've been looking into the 4770k for an intel gaming build. Never worked with intel chips before, always gone with AMD cuz i'm a broke hoe, lol. Anyway, I'd really like to see how well (or not) you can get that 4770k overclocked. As a broke hoe, i'm not going to spend $300+ on a proc I can't oc

also, thanks for the suggestion on benchmark program......I'm new to overclocking...lol


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Hey, that's a nice compro test you got going on there. I'd definitely be interested in seeing the final outcome. I've been looking into the 4770k for an intel gaming build. Never worked with intel chips before, always gone with AMD cuz i'm a broke hoe, lol. Anyway, I'd really like to see how well (or not) you can get that 4770k overclocked. As a broke hoe, i'm not going to spend $300+ on a proc I can't oc
> 
> also, thanks for the suggestion on benchmark program......I'm new to overclocking...lol


Thanks man.

Yea, me too. I'm still messing around with the OC on the 4770k. Once I can get it to pass 2 hours of stress testing without doing crazy voltage I'll post the results.

I also have to stress test the 8320 better, but I pretty much know what it requires to be stable since it used to be my main cpu/mobo/ram.

I'd look at the 4790k now over the 4770k unless you can save like 20 or 30 bucks on the 4770k.

I splurged on the i7. It's a good CPU, but man if I don't have poor luck oc'ing it.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to be oc'ing both my CPU again (well at least find out stable settings) and decided to bench them both stock using "Real Bench 1.1" before starting. I already had this version and decided against dling the newer one since I'm mainly worried about seeing the affects of the overclocks...
> 
> Here are the results...
> 
> Both ran off of SSD
> FX 8320 8gb 1600 ram
> i7-4770k 16gb 1866 ram (advantage here)
> 
> FX 8320 results
> 
> 
> 
> i7-4770k results
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post later when I have my OC tests in. I'm not sure how much luck I'll have the the 4770k since that sucker seems to be a cruddy OC'er. The 8320 shouldn't be bad since I already know what to expect from it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the results after some quick OC'ing... Of course they aren't fully stability tested.
> 
> FX 8320 @ 4.4
> 
> 
> 
> i7-4770k @ 4.2
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I didn't have them the same clock, but I just used some "MUST WORK" settings for the 4770k. The issue is, if I want it to lower it's Vcore while idle I have to switch to adaptive which then causes things to become unstable.
> 
> Also, the ram in my 4770k rig is faster, so that has to have some impact. Still, I'm more worried about seeing how much the OC improves it, over comparing a CPU i paid $145 for to one I paid $310 for.
> 
> **The OC seems to really benefit the FX 8320, especially in "Image Editing" which knocks something like 50 seconds off the time. I'm fairly sure that test is based on single core performance.
> 
> ***The 4770k Crashed after about 15 min of stress testing at the settings I benched. Damned thing doesn't like to be overclocked.


I guess that old version isn't comparable to the newer one, the scores are way different. I got this around a week ago for HWBOT Team competition.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, the scoring is way off from the two versions.

I should of updated to the newer one but didn't want to wait for it to dl.









*I did get my 4770k to pass 2 hours of stress testing. I'm now trying it out in some real world gaming to see how it works out.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> *I did get my 4770k to pass 2 hours of stress testing. I'm now trying it out in some real world gaming to see how it works out.


what clock you at with it?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> what clock you at with it?


4.2... I hit that on my ol'ladys FX6300 without thinking about it.

Ended up crashing while playing a game with some friends. Just set back to my stock settings. Will try again later.

I got unlucky on the ol'silicon lottery with that cpu. Damned thing just doesn't want to overclock. It's still a good cpu at stock, however it would be nice to get some type of oc out of it.

I guess I was spoiled by my FX chips that oc'ed fairly easy.


----------



## paraddox

It is working!

I finally found out why my computer was freezing









Memtest86 told me RAM was all OK.

So I started taking out components and replacing them with older stuff that fit. (I really wanted to avoid doing this because I am lazy and the old components were all packed).

I decided to start from the newest component I bought and work my way to the oldest.

But I ended up just removing the first one.

Anyone care to guess what?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.tp-link.com/lk/products/details/?model=TL-WN851ND



I then googled the name of the component and "freezes" and I got like 2 pages of results with my exact problem.

It seems the drivers Windows installs for it and those that are on the manufacturer website are not actually compatible with Win 8.1

I tried some drivers from its chipset maker but they didn't work either. It took 1.5 hours before it froze, but it froze nonetheless.

So i just kept it out of the machine and will use it for my Linux media center machine (old computer) because it seems that in Linux it has out of the box support.









I should have thought of this sooner but what got me was that I also had an issue with my PSU, that I replaced the day before my 1st post here. Every time I upped my CPU and GPU load to 100% at the same time, the computer flat out rebooted. It was a 4yo PSU with 2 19A rails and with time degradation. And this all happened right when we were moving houses and I needed to connect on wifi from my computer, that had been wired so far. And that's when I got the wifi card, Windows installed drivers and I totally forgot about it.

Thank you very much for all the support in this little quest of mine.

Now I will go and try to fry my CPU by overclocking it a little







and I will overclock it a lot more after I get a new cooler









For those on mobile that can't se spoilers: it was my tp-link tl-wn851ND wifi card.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> It is working!
> 
> I finally found out why my computer was freezing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Memtest86 told me RAM was all OK.
> 
> So I started taking out components and replacing them with older stuff that fit. (I really wanted to avoid doing this because I am lazy and the old components were all packed).
> 
> I decided to start from the newest component I bought and work my way to the oldest.
> 
> But I ended up just removing the first one.
> 
> Anyone care to guess what?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tp-link.com/lk/products/details/?model=TL-WN851ND
> 
> 
> 
> I then googled the name of the component and "freezes" and I got like 2 pages of results with my exact problem.
> 
> It seems the drivers Windows installs for it and those that are on the manufacturer website are not actually compatible with Win 8.1
> 
> I tried some drivers from its chipset maker but they didn't work either. It took 1.5 hours before it froze, but it froze nonetheless.
> 
> So i just kept it out of the machine and will use it for my Linux media center machine (old computer) because it seems that in Linux it has out of the box support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have thought of this sooner but what got me was that I also had an issue with my PSU, that I replaced the day before my 1st post here. Every time I upped my CPU and GPU load to 100% at the same time, the computer flat out rebooted. It was a 4yo PSU with 2 19A rails and with time degradation. And this all happened right when we were moving houses and I needed to connect on wifi from my computer, that had been wired so far. And that's when I got the wifi card, Windows installed drivers and I totally forgot about it.
> 
> Thank you very much for all the support in this little quest of mine.
> 
> Now I will go and try to fry my CPU by overclocking it a little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I will overclock it a lot more after I get a new cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those on mobile that can't se spoilers: it was my tp-link tl-wn851ND wifi card.


finally you found yourt bottleneck, now keep that sucker away from your PC and overclock the heck out of your CPU


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> It is working!
> 
> I finally found out why my computer was freezing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Memtest86 told me RAM was all OK.
> 
> So I started taking out components and replacing them with older stuff that fit. (I really wanted to avoid doing this because I am lazy and the old components were all packed).
> 
> I decided to start from the newest component I bought and work my way to the oldest.
> 
> But I ended up just removing the first one.
> 
> Anyone care to guess what?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.tp-link.com/lk/products/details/?model=TL-WN851ND
> 
> 
> 
> I then googled the name of the component and "freezes" and I got like 2 pages of results with my exact problem.
> 
> It seems the drivers Windows installs for it and those that are on the manufacturer website are not actually compatible with Win 8.1
> 
> I tried some drivers from its chipset maker but they didn't work either. It took 1.5 hours before it froze, but it froze nonetheless.
> 
> So i just kept it out of the machine and will use it for my Linux media center machine (old computer) because it seems that in Linux it has out of the box support.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should have thought of this sooner but what got me was that I also had an issue with my PSU, that I replaced the day before my 1st post here. Every time I upped my CPU and GPU load to 100% at the same time, the computer flat out rebooted. It was a 4yo PSU with 2 19A rails and with time degradation. And this all happened right when we were moving houses and I needed to connect on wifi from my computer, that had been wired so far. And that's when I got the wifi card, Windows installed drivers and I totally forgot about it.
> 
> Thank you very much for all the support in this little quest of mine.
> 
> Now I will go and try to fry my CPU by overclocking it a little
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I will overclock it a lot more after I get a new cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For those on mobile that can't se spoilers: it was my tp-link tl-wn851ND wifi card.


Congratz mate!

You might have not noticed it, but you also have given some info for the others who might run into the same issue.
















Edit: I can see spoilers on mobile








I can also make one.


----------



## paraddox

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> finally you found yourt bottleneck, now keep that sucker away from your PC and overclock the heck out of your CPU






After all you guys told me, I actually know now how to do some basic OC







But first I need a couple of Noctua fans and/or a H105










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Congratz mate!
> 
> You might have not noticed it, but you also have given some info for the others who might run into the same issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I can see spoilers on mobile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can also make one.






I hope others who run into this issue find these posts and don't bash their heads on the desk for 2 weeks like I did.









I use tapatalk app on android and it doesn't show me spoilers. I can create them, but not see them for some reason


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> 
> After all you guys told me, I actually know now how to do some basic OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But first I need a couple of Noctua fans and/or a H105
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope others who run into this issue find these posts and don't bash their heads on the desk for 2 weeks like I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use tapatalk app on android and it doesn't show me spoilers. I can create them, but not see them for some reason


Glad to hear we could help you out mate









If i were you and have the money for it, i would go with an H105 that outperforms my h100i and is at the same price from where i am at.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paraddox*
> 
> 
> After all you guys told me, I actually know now how to do some basic OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But first I need a couple of Noctua fans and/or a H105
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope others who run into this issue find these posts and don't bash their heads on the desk for 2 weeks like I did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I use tapatalk app on android and it doesn't show me spoilers. I can create them, but not see them for some reason


I just use the browser on my N7 to view and post here..


----------



## Chargeit

=D

I made some more adjustments and have manged to bench and game at a 42 multiplier on my main rig. The crap part is everything I adjusted is running balls to the wall max voltage. I like my systems to cut down voltage when I set them to balanced power mode.

I'll see how this works out for awhile. Intel / Asus suggests against using most of my normal stress tests, and Asus stress test is ineffective. I'm going to do it through use and see how it hangs. If I can go a week with current settings I'll start working on getting it so that the system doesn't have to run at max volts since I like leaving it on about 16 hours a day. I'll take 4.2 if that's what I can get.

The system feels good with the current OC settings. I've noticed that you can tell when a OC is totally unstable just using the thing.


----------



## Mega Man

have you delided it ?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> have you delided it ?


No I haven't.

I'm not really having thermal issues, since I've tired fairly high voltages that didn't work on their own. Any more and it would of been way past the suggested max voltage.

I just don't have one that can be oc'ed purely off of Vcore, even a little.

I had to adjust the cache ratio also to get it to work. I had done that in the past, but I must of started in a odd spot.

Right now I'm at...

42 CPU multliper @ 1.2V

39 CPU cache Multiplier @ 1.2V (I might be slightly lower voltage. I'd have to check)

I also adjusted the CPU Input voltage to 1.9V

I set LLC to 4 out of 10

*I've been using the computer all day at those settings and it has been stable. I even gamed, played mount and blade, Arma 3, and 7 days to die. Still sucks the voltage doesn't drop, but will work on that later.


----------



## DividebyZERO

Hello, I have a UD7 990Fx and i have a question about the BIOS. I noticed there are 2 revisions of this mobo. 1.0 has an old legacy BIOS and rev 3.0 has a UEFI deal. The issue i have with my REV 3.0 is the bios is way to basic. Its missing many settings i would expect on a good board. So my question is...

Can i flash rev 1.0 bios onto my 3.0? If is there a hidden advanced menu i am unaware of? I used to have an old EP45 DS3 that i had to hit like Ctrl-F1 for MIT menu advanced.
I cannot believe this 990fx UD7 is so lacking in fine tuning and overclocking.

Any help would be appreciated


----------



## M3TAl

What kind of extra settings are you looking for exactly?

The BIOS of 3.0 and 1.0 are not compatible what so ever, two completely different BIOS'es.


----------



## DividebyZERO

Things like Individual core enable/disable, PCIE clocks, VRM frequency, PCIE slot enable/disable, Voltage readings next to actual adjustment menu. etc.. I see screenshots of rev 1.0 bios and ASUS boards they have way more features for this type of thing.


----------



## M3TAl

Both 1.0 and 3.0 allow you to disable CPU cores. PCIe Clock can be raised on 1.0 though it does pretty much nothing.

There's no options for VRM or disabling PCIe slots on either.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DividebyZERO*
> 
> Hello, I have a UD7 990Fx and i have a question about the BIOS. I noticed there are 2 revisions of this mobo. 1.0 has an old legacy BIOS and rev 3.0 has a UEFI deal. The issue i have with my REV 3.0 is the bios is way to basic. Its missing many settings i would expect on a good board. So my question is...
> 
> Can i flash rev 1.0 bios onto my 3.0? If is there a hidden advanced menu i am unaware of? I used to have an old EP45 DS3 that i had to hit like Ctrl-F1 for MIT menu advanced.
> I cannot believe this 990fx UD7 is so lacking in fine tuning and overclocking.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated


I did a review comparing the UD7 rev 1.0 vs Rev 1.1

The big difference is LLC with the rev 1.1. There is a BIOS screen capture page in the review that should afford the options you need for a healthy OC.

I use the UD7 in my last two builds with OC's of 5.2Ghz and 5.340Ghz

If you would like help feel to look me up 

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/gigabyte_990fxaud7/


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DividebyZERO*
> 
> Hello, I have a UD7 990Fx and i have a question about the BIOS. I noticed there are 2 revisions of this mobo. 1.0 has an old legacy BIOS and rev 3.0 has a UEFI deal. The issue i have with my REV 3.0 is the bios is way to basic. Its missing many settings i would expect on a good board. So my question is...
> 
> Can i flash rev 1.0 bios onto my 3.0? If is there a hidden advanced menu i am unaware of? I used to have an old EP45 DS3 that i had to hit like Ctrl-F1 for MIT menu advanced.
> I cannot believe this 990fx UD7 is so lacking in fine tuning and overclocking.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated


there is also a 1.1

but no you cant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Both 1.0 and 3.0 allow you to disable CPU cores. PCIe Clock can be raised on 1.0 though it does pretty much nothing.
> 
> There's no options for VRM or disabling PCIe slots on either.


it does stuff, you may not understand what it does though


----------



## Regnitto

Found a nice little sweet spot in my 6100:

http://valid.canardpc.com/m3gvy8


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Found a nice little sweet spot in my 6100:
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/m3gvy8


Nice man.


----------



## Chargeit

Hey, the 4 packs of Cougar 120mm fans are on sale right now on Newegg. You can get the orange ones for $20 shipped with the code below. Not a bad deal for them, really great fans to have around. Hell, just the four 3 to 4 pin converters they come with are nice to have around.

Code - EMCYTZG672

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553008

The all black ones are on sale also, but they're 5 bucks more. $25 isn't a bad price, but nothing to get worked up over.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hey, the 4 packs of Cougar 120mm fans are on sale right now on Newegg. You can get the orange ones for $20 shipped with the code below. Not a bad deal for them, really great fans to have around. Hell, just the four 3 to 4 pin converters they come with are nice to have around.
> 
> Code - EMCYTZG672
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553008
> 
> The all black ones are on sale also, but they're 5 bucks more. *$25 isn't a bad price, but nothing to get worked up over.*


Yes.

Especially when a little stroll on a local market place opened up some pretty good deals on really good surplus fans for me yesterday. Delta Triblades for about 2.50 US$







or 100 Philippine Pesos to be exact. YUM YUM







These are really serious fans.


----------



## ginger_nuts

I would hope they either under volt nicely or they are in a rack hidden in a room far away.

45dBa is some serious sound


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Yes.
> 
> Especially when a little stroll on a local market place opened up some pretty good deals on really good surplus fans for me yesterday. Delta Triblades for about 2.50 US$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or 100 Philippine Pesos to be exact. YUM YUM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are really serious fans.


Well, new vs used. I myself don't buy anything used. At least not online. I'd buy something from a friend or what not.

For new fans, that 4 pack of cougars is hard to beat for $20. I have one of the black packs and can say that they are really nice fans to have around. I use them in both of my AMD rigs as front intakes. All of my systems have some type of fan controller, so they sound really good and push a fair amount of air.







Without a doubt they put any stock fans a system comes with to shame and push more then enough air to be used as main system fans.

*I'm ordering some now. I was resisting the urge since I don't need fans right now, but hell, you never know. They're great fans to have on hand.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I would hope they either under volt nicely or they are in a rack hidden in a room far away.
> 
> 45dBa is some serious sound


They do undervolt effectively.

I picked up 2 sets of them by the way. 6 130 mm with 120mm mounting holes. and 6 of the one I posted.

Both could run down to 5 Volts.







Didn't tried lower. As I only used the +5 Volts rails of a cheapo PSU.

You could not find a fault on the 25mm I linked. It's loud yes. But it's PWM (notice the 4 wires?) and at 60% it is still more silent than a cougar (mechanically), air gush is another story because of their airflow.

Specifications

Here they are:



Downside, you don't want a finger near it when it's spinning full tilt.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Well, new vs used. I myself don't buy anything used. At least not online. I'd buy something from a friend or what not.
> 
> For new fans, that 4 pack of cougars is hard to beat for $20. I have one of the black packs and can say that they are really nice fans to have around. I use them in both of my AMD rigs as front intakes. All of my systems have some type of fan controller, so they sound really good and push a fair amount of air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without a doubt they put any stock fans a system comes with to shame and push more then enough air to be used as main system fans.
> 
> *I'm ordering some now. I was resisting the urge since I don't need fans right now, but hell, you never know. They're great fans to have on hand.


Preference is respected.









They are used. but clearly from what I could see, not abused.









These are some of the toughest you can get by the way. Just ignore the "made in China"


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Well, new vs used. I myself don't buy anything used. At least not online. I'd buy something from a friend or what not.
> 
> For new fans, that 4 pack of cougars is hard to beat for $20. I have one of the black packs and can say that they are really nice fans to have around. I use them in both of my AMD rigs as front intakes. All of my systems have some type of fan controller, so they sound really good and push a fair amount of air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Without a doubt they put any stock fans a system comes with to shame and push more then enough air to be used as main system fans.
> 
> *I'm ordering some now. I was resisting the urge since I don't need fans right now, but hell, you never know. They're great fans to have on hand.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> They do undervolt effectively.
> 
> I picked up 2 sets of them by the way. 6 130 mm with 120mm mounting holes. and 6 of the one I posted.
> 
> Both could run down to 5 Volts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't tried lower. As I only used the +5 Volts rails of a cheapo PSU.
> 
> You could not find a fault on the 25mm I linked. It's loud yes. But it's PWM (notice the 4 wires?) and at 60% it is still more silent than a cougar (mechanically), air gush is another story because of their airflow.
> 
> Specifications
> 
> Here they are:
> 
> 
> 
> Downside, you don't want a finger near it when it's spinning full tilt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Preference is respected.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are used. but clearly from what I could see, not abused.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are some of the toughest you can get by the way. Just ignore the "made in China"


By the way, the place is a haven for industrial electronics here in the country. The fans are being sold in the streets by people in carts. You can pick brands like Delta, Nidec, SanAce and stuff. Test them before hand and don't forget to bargain volume for prices.







Looking for the models to pick next week at the moment.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, delta are supposed to be the most powerful fans you can get if I remember correctly. I wouldn't be against the idea of buying used fans to tell you the truth. Main computer components are another story since they cost so damned much.

$2.50 for those fans are a steal even if used.

I just happen to have a soft spot for cougar fans. I have 9 of them and have been very happy with them. You can get better, but lol, you can get much, much, much worse... I have more then one fan sitting on my shelves that's a testament to that.



*Sad part about that photo is I have other stashes of crappy fans around the room.









**That coolspot (or spotcool, w/e) in the picture isn't a crappy fan. It just got caught up with the wrong crowd there.


----------



## mus1mus

Oh boy.

I love Cougars. I have 12 on 2 360s.









I know where you at at picking components. It so happened I am starting to build a cheapo monster in the coming months that will embody CHEAPNESS and POWER.

I'll make a build log of that. But I only have started to make the frame of the case out of Aluminum Angulars. It will house a couple PSUs, 4 360mms minimum. And will take half a year or so to be complete.









That's the reason there.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quick couple of questions; (referencing a FX8350)

Should I take notice of my vCore whilst under load or what I set in the BIOS ?

What vCore is generally needed at 4.6Ghz ? What is generally needed up to 5Ghz ?

Am I better of using vCore or CPU Dvid to get the CoreV's I need ?

As I increase using just the CPU multi, do I need to worry about any other clock settings ?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Quick couple of questions; (referencing a FX8350)
> 
> Should I take notice of my vCore whilst under load or what I set in the BIOS ?


Under Load (stress) What you see in Windows is also good. ( It really depends on how your Vcore reacts. Load usually drops Vcore from what you see in Windows. _Vdroop_ ; or Boosts More under Load. _OverShoot_

Just note it.. To fine tune on temps.
Quote:


> What vCore is generally needed at 4.6Ghz ? What is generally needed up to 5Ghz ?


Depends on your chip. Usually more than 1.5 for 5GHz if you're not too lucky. If you are, 1.5 5GHz is a pretty good one.








But really, it all boils to what Vcore would your Cooling allow








Quote:


> Am I better of using vCore or CPU Dvid to get the CoreV's I need ?


DVID? Vcore is important.
Quote:


> As I increase using just the CPU multi, do I need to worry about any other clock settings ?


Usually, you don't have to.. Unless you want to OC them as well.


----------



## shinku443

So I just bought this board, and I love it , but I'm having some issues with the Realtek drivers, and Dolby functionality.... My Realtek HD Audio Manager starts up on boot, but my Dolby Digital Plus doesn't. I made a shortcut on the desktop and then have to open it manually each time. Anyone else have this problem/know a solution?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinku443*
> 
> So I just bought this board, and I love it , but I'm having some issues with the Realtek drivers, and Dolby functionality.... My Realtek HD Audio Manager starts up on boot, but my Dolby Digital Plus doesn't. I made a shortcut on the desktop and then have to open it manually each time. Anyone else have this problem/know a solution?


What board doe you have? I have the UD5 rev 1.1 and have no problems with it. Maybe reinstall the drivers help?


----------



## Chargeit

My UD5 rev 3 doesn't have the issue.

I'd reinstall drivers.


----------



## istudy92

Question,

So I have a 8320, and UD3 for sale, however I can not seem to be able to find "post" button on the OCN forum, Trying to sell the bundle for 200+shipping anyone here assist on my delema?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *istudy92*
> 
> Question,
> 
> So I have a 8320, and UD3 for sale, however I can not seem to be able to find "post" button on the OCN forum, Trying to sell the bundle for 200+shipping anyone here assist on my delema?


http://www.overclock.net/f/14303/for-sale-wanted


----------



## istudy92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/f/14303/for-sale-wanted


no button =[ thats my issue0.0


----------



## Mega Man

you dont have enough rep, 35+ needed


----------



## Chargeit

I had the same problem when I planned on selling my 8320/UD5. Now looking back I'm happy I didn't since I ended up using it for another build.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you dont have enough rep, 35+ needed










I would never be allowed to use that subforum. Im lucky to not have negative reputation for my newbie questions


----------



## M3TAl

You can use it all you want: posting in already made threads and PM'ing for purchases. You just need 35 rep to sell.


----------



## aaroc

I just got a new shiny UD7 990FX!








What drivers/utils do you recommend for a clean W8 x64 and upgrade to 8.1 update 1?
The UD7 came with latest BIOS already and I downloaded all from Gigabyte web.
Latest WHQL SB drivers from AMD instead of the one from gigabyte web?
Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

if you can download bios from giga, i know you can DL drivers...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I just got a new shiny UD7 990FX!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What drivers/utils do you recommend for a clean W8 x64 and upgrade to 8.1 update 1?
> The UD7 came with latest BIOS already and I downloaded all from Gigabyte web.
> Latest WHQL SB drivers from AMD instead of the one from gigabyte web?
> Thanks


Careful using RAID sata mode with some SSD's. Apparently some SSD's just will not show up in Windows no matter what in RAID mode on AMD SB950 (seems to be board independent and possibly SSD dependent). I suffered through this just the other day. Had to settle for AHCI, lose my win7 partition on the RAID (among some other things), and make a new software RAID.


----------



## Chargeit

^^

I'm tweaking my OC on my 4770k. Going for 43 multiplier now. Want to slowly work my way to 44. 45 would be nice, but I'd have to delid it without a doubt. Not sure I'm willing to go that route.

I installed Arma 3 on my AMD rig to see how it worked out. The funny thing is though the settings aren't as high, and it doesn't look as good, it runs better right now on my AMD rig since the settings are more conservative. Damned game defaulted my main rig to such high settings that look so freaking good that I just can't bring myself to back off them. Still, it looks good and runs well on fairly high settings on my AMD rig. I'm tweaking the graphical settings seeing what I can get. Have manged to get it looking pretty good with smooth performance so far.

My AMD rig is all stock right now. I don't see much reason to keep a OC on it when I mainly use it for surfing the web. Only think I really changed was my GPU fan curve/power limit. Got to say that this "HIS R9-270x" is a strong card, especially considering I got it for $180.









Man, I should be in bed. For some reason I tend to get a wild hair up my butt to mess with OC settings late at night.


----------



## M3TAl

I'm still trying to get Win8 back to where it once was. Could'nt clone the OS to the SSD because of this stupid AMD RAID garbage. Getting really sick of you and your random bugs AMD.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'm still trying to get Win8 back to where it once was. Could'nt clone the OS to the SSD because of this stupid AMD RAID garbage. Getting really sick of you and your random bugs AMD.


Oh, you got a SSD now?









A SSD is life changing for general system use.


----------



## M3TAl

Yes it is very nice. Win8 loads in about 5 seconds. I waited this long because there was no way I was settling for a measly 256 GB or less and no way I was paying over 45 cents per GB







. Got this delicious Crucial MX100 512 GB for $197 after shipping and it even came in two days







It even has those extra capacitors for power outages.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Yes it is very nice. Win8 loads in about 5 seconds. I waited this long because there was no way I was settling for a measly 256 GB or less and no way I was paying over 45 cents per GB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Got this delicious Crucial MX100 512 GB for $197 after shipping and it even came in two days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It even has those extra capacitors for power outages.


That's the best upgrade you possibly could do there mate, i am sure you will be happy with it


----------



## M3TAl

Very happy with it so far







. The 4K-64thrd (queue depth 64 for 4K) is a bit lower than review samples likely due to the AMD storage controller vs Intel but the thing still feels amazing so oh well.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, the cost of SSD have come down majorly lately. Even compared to when I first got the SSD in my main system. I kind of thought about moving to a larger one, but I don't feel like going through the hassle of fully reinstalling my OS and all. I'm just going to sit on my current ones for a while longer.

*Oh, what I did order the other day is a "DataVac". It's a electronic duster. I can't wait for that f'er to come in. Going to give all of my systems a good cleaning. Will make my life much easier, and pay for itself quickly. I go through a lot of compressed air with all these damned computers I clean monthly.


----------



## M3TAl

Well all you have to do is clone the OS, very simple to do and probably pretty fast going from SSD to SSD. Simple as that. However this was not an option for me due to this RAID debacle. I even took the SSD and OS HDD down to my other system (970A-UD3) which is running IDE and cloned the OS there. The SSD shows up fine in IDE and AHCI for whatever reason RAID on AMD SB950 is broke with some SSD's.

Nothing but BSoD's when trying to boot off the cloned OS on the SSD because well Windows just won't see the SSD in RAID mode no matter what.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, that's a option. For some reason I feel better about just doing a fresh install of windows if moving OS drives.

It isn't a issue now. Though it's nice to know they're getting to the point that a 512gb drive can be gotten for under $200. that's pretty amazing.


----------



## M3TAl

The regular price is around $215-225. It will most likely go on sale again during the madness that is November/December.


----------



## shinku443

idk i reinstalled the drivers several times...


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The regular price is around $215-225. It will most likely go on sale again during the madness that is November/December.


Still not bad considering 512gb SSD were like $400 or $500 not long ago if I remember correctly.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shinku443*
> 
> idk i reinstalled the drivers several times...


http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/run-program-automatically-windows-starts#1TC=windows-7

Just set it up to start up with windows. Not sure why it doesn't do it by default.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'm still trying to get Win8 back to where it once was. Could'nt clone the OS to the SSD because of this stupid AMD RAID garbage. Getting really sick of you and your random bugs AMD.


still you are the only one i have ever heard of this issue from. either way another reason to never use on board raid..... it is like complaining about on board sound but still using it.... buy a raid card or expect issues on a non main function


----------



## M3TAl

Nothing wrong with onboard raid for simple 2 drive raid-0. There is definitely more people out there with this problem.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/325308-30-crosshair-formula-raid-mode-singl-detected-install

http://windowssecrets.com/forums/showthread.php/160379-SSDs-incompatible-with-AMD-990FX-chipset-RAID

Various people with Samsing 840's having the same problem all on SB950.

http://forum.crucial.com/t5/Solid-State-Drives-SSD/Two-M500-drives-in-RAID-are-not-visible-to-Win7-amp-8-installers/td-p/141535

http://forum.crucial.com/t5/Solid-State-Drives-SSD/M500-and-AMD-SB950-bug/td-p/148470

Bunch of people with various Crucial drives on SB950 in RAID not recognized by Windows.

It's just sad that AMD always has all these weird bugs. Feel like I'm back in 2012 when they broke Xfire on 970 chipsets for almost an entire year.

Edit: also forgot to mention that you have to enable RAID 5 even on AHCI to get the proper speed out of an SSD. If you leave RAID 5 disabled you're stuck at SATA 2 speeds. It also hurts 4K speeds at QD64.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Nothing wrong with onboard raid for simple 2 drive raid-0. There is definitely more people out there with this problem.
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/325308-30-crosshair-formula-raid-mode-singl-detected-install
> 
> http://windowssecrets.com/forums/showthread.php/160379-SSDs-incompatible-with-AMD-990FX-chipset-RAID
> 
> Various people with Samsing 840's having the same problem all on SB950.
> 
> http://forum.crucial.com/t5/Solid-State-Drives-SSD/Two-M500-drives-in-RAID-are-not-visible-to-Win7-amp-8-installers/td-p/141535
> 
> http://forum.crucial.com/t5/Solid-State-Drives-SSD/M500-and-AMD-SB950-bug/td-p/148470
> 
> Bunch of people with various Crucial drives on SB950 in RAID not recognized by Windows.
> 
> It's just sad that AMD always has all these weird bugs. Feel like I'm back in 2012 when they broke Xfire on 970 chipsets for almost an entire year.
> 
> Edit: also forgot to mention that you have to enable RAID 5 even on AHCI to get the proper speed out of an SSD. If you leave RAID 5 disabled you're stuck at SATA 2 speeds. It also hurts 4K speeds at QD64.


really, i never did, AHCI works as intended.

NOR WAS CFX broke on 970,

again we will bring this up 970, CFX was Never supported, the fact that they made it work should be something you thank them for. not criticize when when it didnt work


and if you want to alk about raid, feel free to mention on board raid to @kyadck


----------



## M3TAl

I guess the board makers put multiple PCIe slots on there for fun?


----------



## Mega Man

just because you have "PCIE slots" ( available pcie lanes )

DOES NOT mean the chipset SUPPORTS CFX


----------



## GuPadilla

Hi, i posted this over at AMD Motherboards but nobody seemed to have noticed my thread, so I came here to ask you guys about it...

Whenever I try to watch a youtube video, the sound is played normally but the video/images just don't, they freeze and then return to play and this keeps over and over. I did realize that this happened after I OC my North Bridge Multiplier from auto(11x) to 12x (setting the voltages to keep it stable). Returning to auto, it turned youtube normal again, but I noticed a pretty decent decrease in my CPU Speed.

My setup:
990FXA-UD3 Rev 4.0
FX-8350 4,5GHz (21,5x214)
CM Hyper 212 EVO W/ Stock fan pull and CM Excalibur push
16 GB RAM Corsair Vengeance (2x8GB) 1996MHz 9-9-9-24
EVGA GTX 760 4GB FTW
Aerocool Strike-X 800W

CPU-Z validator link

Can this issue with NB multiplier and flash be fixed?

Thanks in advance

PS: I ran 20 runs on IBT and i'm stable in both NB 11x and 12x

Am I the only one having this ? Because I was reading the posts on this topic and people seemed to OC the NB as well. But I don't see any complaining about this flash issue


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> Hi, i posted this over at AMD Motherboards but nobody seemed to have noticed my thread, so I came here to ask you guys about it...
> 
> Whenever I try to watch a youtube video, the sound is played normally but the video/images just don't, they freeze and then return to play and this keeps over and over. I did realize that this happened after I OC my North Bridge Multiplier from auto(11x) to 12x (setting the voltages to keep it stable). Returning to auto, it turned youtube normal again, but I noticed a pretty decent decrease in my CPU Speed.
> 
> My setup:
> 990FXA-UD3 Rev 4.0
> FX-8350 4,5GHz (21,5x214)
> CM Hyper 212 EVO W/ Stock fan pull and CM Excalibur push
> 16 GB RAM Corsair Vengeance (2x8GB) 1996MHz 9-9-9-24
> EVGA GTX 760 4GB FTW
> Aerocool Strike-X 800W
> 
> CPU-Z validator link
> 
> Can this issue with NB multiplier and flash be fixed?
> 
> Thanks in advance
> 
> PS: I ran 20 runs on IBT and i'm stable in both NB 11x and 12x
> 
> Am I the only one having this ? Because I was reading the posts on this topic and people seemed to OC the NB as well. But I don't see any complaining about this flash issue


I have discussed this issue way back and it is now considered a fact.

CPU-NB at X12 or 2400 at the BIOS is a BIG NO for GIGAs with these chips (Vishera).

Stutterring, 3D Issues, Windows Aero not working are just a few example of that.

Stay with X11 or 2200 for the CPU-NB or Go to 2600 or X13.









If you have the urge to OC the CPU-NB, use FSB.


----------



## aaroc

About Raid on 990FX It works and it does a descent job for a BIOS/Firmware Raid Controller. Tested with WD Red, Blue, Black from 500GB to 4TB, Seagates from 500GB to 2TB all 3.5" and some 2.5" from sizes 160GB to 500GB (Seagate XT Hybrid) not a single problem. Like 2 years and no problem with Raid 0/1/5. The only problem I got was when I bought three Samsung 830 SSD to use in Raid. They disconnected when stressed every single time (event viewer logs). Bought a lot of brands and types of sata cables same results, even a new CHVFZ to test. Then asked here ( overclock.net CHVF and 8350 forums) who had a working ssd in raid with AMD and they even repeated my 100% accuracy killing test (atto, crystalMark, copying a huge file) without problems. Sold the Samsungs 830 and bought two Corsairs Neutron GTX twice the size, twice the performance, no problems in Raid







. At the moment of my problems the internerd didnt had info of the problems with samsungs.


----------



## ginger_nuts

This is whilst OC my 8350 on my UD3 rev 4.0, BIOS F2.

Has anyone experienced a massive delay between when you log into windows (I have to enter a password), and when you actually get a desktop ?

Is there a known workaround ?

Also in my BIOS I am unable to take screen shots, I was able to previously but not now ?

Does anyone know the safe temp limit of the MOSFETS ?


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I have discussed this issue way back and it is now considered a fact.
> 
> CPU-NB at X12 or 2400 at the BIOS is a BIG NO for GIGAs with these chips (Vishera).
> 
> Stutterring, 3D Issues, Windows Aero not working are just a few example of that.
> 
> Stay with X11 or 2200 for the CPU-NB or Go to 2600 or X13.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the urge to OC the CPU-NB, use FSB.


Thank you, mus1mus !
But I did already tried to go for x13 causing the system not to boot and me having to clear the CMOS... To avoid this, shoud I raise the NB voltage (not CPU/NB) ?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> Thank you, mus1mus !
> But I did already tried to go for x13 causing the system not to boot and me having to clear the CMOS... To avoid this, shoud I raise the NB voltage (not CPU/NB) ?


It should be CPU-NB. But I can't figure why you can't boot at 2600 unless you also OC the FSB.









You can post your BIOS Screens here for everyone to get an idea of your settings.









Format a Flash Drive to FAT32
Boot into the BIOS, Press F12 to capture the screen.
Screenshots will be saved into the Flash Drive Directly.


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It should be CPU-NB. But I can't figure why you can't boot at 2600 unless you also OC the FSB.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can post your BIOS Screens here for everyone to get an idea of your settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Format a Flash Drive to FAT32
> Boot into the BIOS, Press F12 to capture the screen.
> Screenshots will be saved into the Flash Drive Directly.


My BIOS Screenshots for the profile without NB multiplier OC





The other profile that I used for OCing the multiplier, is this exact same frequencies and voltages except for NB frequency: 2400MHz , NB Core Voltage 1,3V and NB Voltage 1.2V

Yesterday, I tried to up the nb core voltage a bit more (1.325 V), looking for the 2600 NB, and made it to boot into windows. Didn't had any of the problems I posted here (flash issues) when using the x12 multiplier, but I crashed into BSOD









well... here are my minidump, if it helps

minidump.zip 110k .zip file


As you can see, I got 4 different BSOD for the exact same situation... this looks a little messed up for me...

I'm heading college right now, but later I may work on this... searching all arround google and stuff... anyway, thank you and see ya


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> My BIOS Screenshots for the profile without NB multiplier OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The other profile that I used for OCing the multiplier, is this exact same frequencies and voltages except for NB frequency: 2400MHz , NB Core Voltage 1,3V and NB Voltage 1.2V
> 
> Yesterday, I tried to up the nb core voltage a bit more (1.325 V), looking for the 2600 NB, and made it to boot into windows. Didn't had any of the problems I posted here (flash issues) when using the x12 multiplier, but I crashed into BSOD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> well... here are my minidump, if it helps
> 
> minidump.zip 110k .zip file
> 
> 
> As you can see, I got 4 different BSOD for the exact same situation... this looks a little messed up for me...
> 
> I'm heading college right now, but later I may work on this... searching all arround google and stuff... anyway, thank you and see ya


I did run my CPU/NB high as well and things seems to respond quicker and windows 7 seems snappier but it can cause a lot of problems too.

for example i got a lot of browser freezes and ddl problems so i had to scan for problems again.

I returned to stock and now no problems anymore, as a matter a fact, at 1866Mhz RAM you do not need higher CPU/NB because it can cope with that speed just fine.

Only at higher 2000+MHz it would be beneficial otherwise it causes more problems than it solves IMO.


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I did run my CPU/NB high as well and things seems to respond quicker and windows 7 seems snappier but it can cause a lot of problems too.
> 
> for example i got a lot of browser freezes and ddl problems so i had to scan for problems again.
> 
> I returned to stock and now no problems anymore, as a matter a fact, at 1866Mhz RAM you do not need higher CPU/NB because it can cope with that speed just fine.
> 
> Only at higher 2000+MHz it would be beneficial otherwise it causes more problems than it solves IMO.


Actually, I noticed a notorious improvement when changing the NB multiplier from x11 to x12, but x12 seems just wrong on Gigabyte's boards with all this problems, so I tried to go for x13 to keep with this improvement, but I just can't... When I try to start a stability test, IBT for exemple, BANG ! BSOD on your face!

I don't know whether it is safe or not to set the NB Core Voltage any more than 1,3 V. And if I do set it to 1,4V, for exemple, would it be stable ?


----------



## hurricane28

It depends, what board do you have fella?

Also did you bump up the voltage PLL a little? That can give some more stability.

Look in my signature at my bios pictures and maybe it can help you out, if not don't hesitate to ask again









I could boot at 2600 at 1.412 volts but i don't feel comfortable putting those volts though my CPU/NB, as a matter a fact my CPU get too hot for my cooler to handle so i am back at stock and at a later day/time i will maybe try again.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> Actually, I noticed a notorious improvement when changing the NB multiplier from x11 to x12, but x12 seems just wrong on Gigabyte's boards with all this problems, so I tried to go for x13 to keep with this improvement, but I just can't... When I try to start a stability test, IBT for exemple, BANG ! BSOD on your face!
> 
> I don't know whether it is safe or not to set the NB Core Voltage any more than 1,3 V. And if I do set it to 1,4V, for exemple, would it be stable ?


Had to ask.

What are you using to cool your monster?

I would be hesitant to introduce voltages that might cause your rig to overheat like @hurricane28 said. Be sure to have enough cooling before you delve deeper into overclocking these chips.


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> It depends, what board do you have fella?
> 
> Also did you bump up the voltage PLL a little? That can give some more stability.
> 
> Look in my signature at my bios pictures and maybe it can help you out, if not don't hesitate to ask again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could boot at 2600 at 1.412 volts but i don't feel comfortable putting those volts though my CPU/NB, as a matter a fact my CPU get too hot for my cooler to handle so i am back at stock and at a later day/time i will maybe try again.


I used PLL on extreme... :/
good luck with your OC, and your cooler is really good, I thought these were able to achieve any voltage hehe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Had to ask.
> 
> What are you using to cool your monster?
> 
> I would be hesitant to introduce voltages that might cause your rig to overheat like @hurricane28 said. Be sure to have enough cooling before you delve deeper into overclocking these chips.


I am currently using a CM Hyper 212 EVO with a CM Excalibur push and the stock fan of the hyper in pull

my temps (with the processor currently in 214*21) get near 55º when under extreme load


----------



## GuPadilla

Excalibur is on pull and the stock is pushing the air*****


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> It depends, what board do you have fella?
> 
> Also did you bump up the voltage PLL a little? That can give some more stability.
> 
> Look in my signature at my bios pictures and maybe it can help you out, if not don't hesitate to ask again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could boot at 2600 at 1.412 volts but i don't feel comfortable putting those volts though my CPU/NB, as a matter a fact my CPU get too hot for my cooler to handle so i am back at stock and at a later day/time i will maybe try again.


forgot to answer you. I'm using GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 4


----------



## mus1mus

Saw the issue. Correct me if I am wrong here:

FSB at 214
CPU NB at 2600 or X13
Crash?

Issue is that your CPU-NB is at 2782MHz on that setting.

Remember, Changing the FSB Value will change every other Values attached to it. CPU, CPU-NB, HT, Memory.

Stay at 200 FSB first and try to OC using just the multiplier.

Sad to say but your cooler is not up to the task of FSB OC'ing.


----------



## Mega Man

I saw so many problems.

There is no extreme setting for pll it is a voltage.

If you are running extreme llc there is another.

Your cooler is another problem

I can easily keep going


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Saw the issue. Correct me if I am wrong here:
> 
> FSB at 214
> CPU NB at 2600 or X13
> Crash?
> 
> Issue is that your CPU-NB is at 2782MHz on that setting.
> 
> Remember, Changing the FSB Value will change every other Values attached to it. CPU, CPU-NB, HT, Memory.
> 
> Stay at 200 FSB first and try to OC using just the multiplier.
> 
> Sad to say but your cooler is not up to the task of FSB OC'ing.


ok, thank you, I'll try that








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I saw so many problems.
> 
> There is no extreme setting for pll it is a voltage.
> 
> If you are running extreme llc there is another.
> 
> Your cooler is another problem
> 
> I can easily keep going


I'm sorry, I mixed things up, LLC is on extreme, PLL is on auto


----------



## GuPadilla

I did it !!









But I've just realized that setting NB at 13x does't really give me any improvement other than heat.









I'll downclock it and stay this way until I buy a new cooler


----------



## mus1mus

CPU Frequency is the most important.









I'd suggest you back down on the LLC.

Download HWInfo For monitoring.

IBT AVX For Stressing the CPU. (Stability Test)









1. Set your LLC to Medium. Observe the Vcore on HWInfo. Record your Values.

2. Set your LLC to High. Observe the Vcore on HWInfo. Record your Values.

3. Try the other settings if you can.

Vcore under LOAD (IBT AVX) should match or less than what you set on the BIOS.

A little Vdroop is fine.

Overshoot will heat up your CPU a lot.

CPU-NB Generates extra heat.

Extras:

Put the stock AMD Fan on to your VRM Heatsink.
4.4 should be your limit or Vcore in the range of 1.35s
You can't expect much from your cooler, and please don't, seek further than that.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Saw the issue. Correct me if I am wrong here:
> 
> FSB at 214
> CPU NB at 2600 or X13
> Crash?
> 
> Issue is that your CPU-NB is at 2782MHz on that setting.
> 
> Remember, Changing the FSB Value will change every other Values attached to it. CPU, CPU-NB, HT, Memory.
> 
> Stay at 200 FSB first and try to OC using just the multiplier.
> 
> Sad to say but your cooler is not up to the task of FSB OC'ing.
> 
> 
> 
> ok, thank you, I'll try that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I saw so many problems.
> 
> There is no extreme setting for pll it is a voltage.
> 
> If you are running extreme llc there is another.
> 
> Your cooler is another problem
> 
> I can easily keep going
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm sorry, I mixed things up, LLC is on extreme, PLL is on auto
Click to expand...

now that i am not on mobile ill be more helpful sorry about that

follow mus direction and also cpu pll raise to 2.695


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> now that i am not on mobile ill be more helpful sorry about that
> 
> follow mus direction and also cpu pll raise to 2.695


Sorry about taking so much time to reply. But i raised pll to 2,695 and this, somehow made my voltages to become a little unstable, but the computer itself is fully stable. Sorry to ask, but what exacly are we looking for here ?


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> CPU Frequency is the most important.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd suggest you back down on the LLC.
> 
> Download HWInfo For monitoring.
> 
> IBT AVX For Stressing the CPU. (Stability Test)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Set your LLC to Medium. Observe the Vcore on HWInfo. Record your Values.
> 
> 2. Set your LLC to High. Observe the Vcore on HWInfo. Record your Values.
> 
> 3. Try the other settings if you can.
> 
> Vcore under LOAD (IBT AVX) should match or less than what you set on the BIOS.
> 
> A little Vdroop is fine.
> 
> Overshoot will heat up your CPU a lot.
> 
> CPU-NB Generates extra heat.
> 
> Extras:
> 
> Put the stock AMD Fan on to your VRM Heatsink.
> 4.4 should be your limit or Vcore in the range of 1.35s
> You can't expect much from your cooler, and please don't, seek further than that.


When you say high LLC, what you mean ? My LLC options are only auto, normal, extreme, medium, low and standard... :/
Aside the fact that normal, medium and standard look the same in the name, i'll have to test each one of them to see wich is best... People at Gigabyte should read this forum in order to improve their boards...


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> When you say high LLC, what you mean ? My LLC options are only auto, normal, extreme, medium, low and standard... :/
> Aside the fact that normal, medium and standard look the same in the name, i'll have to test each one of them to see wich is best... *People at Gigabyte should read this forum in order to improve their boards.*..


It would be handy if they had at least one engineer on here to listen to us, if there isn't already


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> CPU Frequency is the most important.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd suggest you back down on the LLC.
> 
> Download HWInfo For monitoring.
> 
> IBT AVX For Stressing the CPU. (Stability Test)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Set your LLC to Medium. Observe the Vcore on HWInfo. Record your Values.
> 
> 2. Set your LLC to High. Observe the Vcore on HWInfo. Record your Values.
> 
> 3. Try the other settings if you can.
> 
> Vcore under LOAD (IBT AVX) should match or less than what you set on the BIOS.
> 
> A little Vdroop is fine.
> 
> Overshoot will heat up your CPU a lot.
> 
> CPU-NB Generates extra heat.
> 
> Extras:
> 
> Put the stock AMD Fan on to your VRM Heatsink.
> 4.4 should be your limit or Vcore in the range of 1.35s
> You can't expect much from your cooler, and please don't, seek further than that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> When you say high LLC, what you mean ? My LLC options are only auto, normal, extreme, medium, low and standard... :/
> Aside the fact that normal, medium and standard look the same in the name, i'll have to test each one of them to see wich is best... People at Gigabyte should read this forum in order to improve their boards...
Click to expand...

Apologies, my previous board is a UD3 Rev 3. Anyway, the idea is that: LLC settings would either provide a Boost (Voltage Overshoot from what you set in the Bios during Load) or Maintain and/or allow Vdroop (Voltage at Load is lower that the voltage you can see on Idle)

I have no idea how the rev 4 voltages react to LLC but my previous board produce erratic Voltages at Extreme. For example, 1.500 at the Bios will produce 1.575 Volts Maximum and 1.400 Minimum. That's a Delta of more than 0.100 Volts. Medium produces 1.525 and 1.488 Volts maximum to minimum. Which is a much lower delta. (Note just example and figures are not real. But Voltage swings are close to the values I expressed.)

So Medium produces a much lower Temperature than Extreme. And still more stable as the minimum is also higher than what I can get from Extreme.

Different boards model = different results. That's why I asked you to record and observe which LLC Setting provide the least Voltage Swings.









As for Mega's recommendation on CPU PLL, yes, it helps with stability. And very little, if there is, in your Vcore. Not sure why you have seen your Vcore unstable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> now that i am not on mobile ill be more helpful sorry about that
> 
> follow mus direction and also cpu pll raise to 2.695
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about taking so much time to reply. But i raised pll to 2,695 and this, somehow made my voltages to become a little unstable, but the computer itself is fully stable. Sorry to ask, but what exacly are we looking for here ?
Click to expand...

pll helps on giga boards ( and no others ironically )

lower temps and stabilize the chip
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> When you say high LLC, what you mean ? My LLC options are only auto, normal, extreme, medium, low and standard... :/
> Aside the fact that normal, medium and standard look the same in the name, i'll have to test each one of them to see wich is best... People at Gigabyte should read this forum in order to improve their boards...


try med


----------



## ginger_nuts

Hang on, so PLL will help with stability ?

So what would be a safe level on my UD3 rev 4.0 ?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Hang on, so PLL will help with stability ?
> 
> So what would be a safe level on my UD3 rev 4.0 ?


Somewhere around 2.795

Or before it reds.


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pll helps on giga boards ( and no others ironically )
> 
> lower temps and stabilize the chip
> try med


Med is fine, been able to set vcore in bios to 1,33125. As it keeps it above 1,3 when under load, it is as stable as before with vcore set to 1,39375. The temp when under load is the same as before, but the idle temp is 3ºC lower then before.


----------



## aaroc

Yesterday I finished installing EK Supremacy WB for cpu and EK Monarch for ram on my ud7 990fx rev 3. Dry tested first. Will post pictures on my build log during the weekend. I will leak test this evening and night and if it doesnt leak I will power it up tomorrow morning.

Can you please give me BIOS starting points for cpu and ram oc? Or a link to a post in this thread with recommendation. This will be my first try at oc.
FX 9370 + Gskill Trident X 2400 CL10 water cooled. This PC is F2004 on my signature. thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Hang on, so PLL will help with stability ?
> 
> So what would be a safe level on my UD3 rev 4.0 ?
> 
> 
> 
> Somewhere around 2.795
> 
> Or before it reds.
Click to expand...

no 2.695 ( this is what most say. but no one knows for sure, some people report to use 2.89 )

and again this is only on giga boards, but yrmv
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pll helps on giga boards ( and no others ironically )
> 
> lower temps and stabilize the chip
> try med
> 
> 
> 
> Med is fine, been able to set vcore in bios to 1,33125. As it keeps it above 1,3 when under load, it is as stable as before with vcore set to 1,39375. The temp when under load is the same as before, but the idle temp is 3ºC lower then before.
Click to expand...

dont trust idle temps


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> It would be handy if they had at least one engineer on here to listen to us, if there isn't already


Their engineers really don't care what we have to say. lol when you get right down to it Gigabyte does not care one bit what we have to say. I have gone ROUNDS with them about this UD3 warping/over heating VRM deal.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Their engineers really don't care what we have to say. lol when you get right down to it Gigabyte does not care one bit what we have to say. I have gone ROUNDS with them about this UD3 warping/over heating VRM deal.


I noticed a while back that my "970a-ud3 rev 3" has a tendency to warp. It doesn't seem to be a problem with my "990FXA-UD5 rev 3", thing's built like a tank. Only issue it had was the bios it came with was crap, and required updating to include options to stop it from throttling such as "APM".

My "990FXA-UD5" is even better built then my "Asus Maximus VI Hero Z87", which was very noticeable since I pulled my 990 out, and put the Z87 right in.


----------



## hajnalka

990fxa ud3 rev 3 restarting pc 8350 4.7Ghz

0% use cpu restart
100% use cpu restart

I clean install windows same problem

Watercooling mosfet vrm and northbridge in motherboard.
Windows no error find clean start system.
2 days ok not restart
next days 6times restart pc.
OCCT benchamark past no errors memtest no errors.

Maybe PSU 1yers Lepa G850Mas GOLD
or mainboard fault vrm mosfet and unstable.
Playing WOT 3hours and restart pc no errors message.

What is it?


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> 990fxa ud3 rev 3 restarting pc 8350 4.7Ghz
> 
> 0% use cpu restart
> 100% use cpu restart
> 
> I clean install windows same problem
> 
> Watercooling mosfet vrm and northbridge in motherboard.
> Windows no error find clean start system.
> 2 days ok not restart
> next days 6times restart pc.
> OCCT benchamark past no errors memtest no errors.
> 
> Maybe PSU 1yers Lepa G850Mas GOLD
> or mainboard fault vrm mosfet and unstable.
> Playing WOT 3hours and restart pc no errors message.
> 
> What is it?


What are your temps ?
Bios could be turning off your pc, or even windows, it's just a hunch...


----------



## hajnalka

motherboard cca 60C-80C thermal sensor is too close ferrites.Not the VRM.
GPU 60-80 Water temp 35,4C to 45C max CPU temp is lower of the maximum tdp.


----------



## hajnalka

Room temp 32C


----------



## mus1mus

Can't understand a bit.









Post Screenshots

Post your Rig's Specs.


----------



## xXUNLUCKYXx

Are you pushing the power button it sounds like its turning on then looses power and then actually starts to boot normally?

That's the issue I have with my UD3 rev3 running overclocks, issues goes away with cool and quiet turned but who wants that.

Ive read a couple of places its an issue with the board but its not causing any damage


----------



## aaronsta1

i have a question, i just picked up a 990fxa-ud3 rev4 2nd hand..
everything is working good.. except i noticed in the bios under boot devices, when i push F12. i have an entry called ubuntu
choosing ubuntu doesn't do anything, it still boots to windows.

the drives were new when i installed windows and ive reset the bios.

anyone know what this option is for?


----------



## acheleg

does it specify the device, under the boot options menu? it could be a flash drive- perhaps a network boot.


----------



## mus1mus

It is indeed a network boot. F12 will show you that option if you have PXE and Network boot options enabled.

Unless you intend to do so, I'd sat its not an issue.


----------



## acheleg

that being said- you can just disable pxe boot in bios


----------



## Chargeit

Nice,

My 780 just crapped out. That makes the 2nd one in 8 months.

Thing can't even hold stock 888MHz clock atm.

I'd be much more concerned about it if I didn't have my back up gaming system to use until I get this one replaced.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Nice,
> 
> My 780 just crapped out. That makes the 2nd one in 8 months.
> 
> Thing can't even hold stock 888MHz clock atm.
> 
> I'd be much more concerned about it if I didn't have my back up gaming system to use until I get this one replaced.


Let me guess, was it an Asus card?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Let me guess, was it an Asus card?


You guessed right.

Yea, there's a reason when i got my R9 270x, I had the option between a his or a Asus at the same price point of a $180 I picked the His.

Never again man.


----------



## Manganez72

Hello there, this is my first post here









Running actually a 965BE on a DFI LanParty DK 790FXB M3H5, I'm upgrading to a FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 to get USB 3.0, Sata 3 etc ...

I didnt read the entire thread (1026 pages!) but got some interesting infos btw

Still some questions :

1° my ram is a 2x2Gb OCZ Platinum kit 1600 7-6-6-24-1T @ 1.9v, will it be ok to run such old chips @ 1.9v ?
I can get them run @ 17xx with these timings, I wish to keep them

2° as I read a lot of messages about vrm and chipsets temperatures issues, I'm wondering if is worth to pull out that ugly and tick pad under heatsink vrm and put some Arctic Ceramique in place ? already done on the SB ...



3° Do you think average temp (chipsets and vrm) will be slightly less with a 965 compared to a FX ? Actually it runs @ 4.0 Ghz (1.43v) - NB 2600
Temp are good under a NH-D14 and a very good air flow into a big lian li case

Waiting for a new psu to install and will be back to give you my feedback









Thanks a lot and greetings from Belgium !


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> You guessed right.
> 
> Yea, there's a reason when i got my R9 270x, I had the option between a his or a Asus at the same price point of a $180 I picked the His.
> 
> Never again man.


In all honesty, Asus would be the last fender i go with when i am shopping for an GPU.

Its all about marketing and marketing with those guys. I mean, their so called MATRIX cards are even worse than the reverence for crying out loud.
Ive seen several people that have problems with them and mostly they are MATRIX cards.

I have more than enough with Asus so they will never see a dime from this guy again. Also their RMA department is a joke and JJ their marketing guy is a big time lier.
If they were just as good in making products as they are at marketing they would have the best product no doubt.
the onlt brand i trust for now and have experience with is MSI, there is also a reason why people mostly get higher overclocks on MSI platforms than on Asus and thats because MSI put their money in the product itself instead of endless marketing.

doesn't matter if its Nvidia or AMD GPU NEVER GO WITH ASUS.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, this was my first and last Asus card. Two dead cards so far, and I wouldn't be surprised if I had to return another one before all is said and done.

Asus = hype if you ask me. My Asus GPU has died two times, and my Hero 6 Z87 mobo feels like thin cardboard. I'm still not even sure it isn't the fault of my board that my 4770k is impossible to get stable at any oc (Only tried 42+, not worth less).

Their DvD drives seem to do OK... Of course I never use them.

Luckily they are paying for shipping.

I told the guy that this was a bad time for me to pay for shipping (which is true). I have my 4770k up on ebay right now, I'll be picking up a 4790k on Friday, and I'll have to pay to ship out my 4770k on Monday. I just can't afford to waste more money right now on shipping a massive GPU. Things always pick the perfect time to go bonk.

Man, I'm just happy I have my back up AMD gaming rig. Would suck to go weeks again without a proper rig.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, this was my first and last Asus card. Two dead cards so far, and I wouldn't be surprised if I had to return another one before all is said and done.
> 
> Asus = hype if you ask me. My Asus GPU has died two times, and my Hero 6 Z87 mobo feels like thin cardboard. I'm still not even sure it isn't the fault of my board that my 4770k is impossible to get stable at any oc (Only tried 42+, not worth less).
> 
> Their DvD drives seem to do OK... Of course I never use them.
> 
> Luckily they are paying for shipping.
> 
> I told the guy that this was a bad time for me to pay for shipping (which is true). I have my 4770k up on ebay right now, I'll be picking up a 4790k on Friday, and I'll have to pay to ship out my 4770k on Monday. I just can't afford to waste more money right now on shipping a massive GPU. Things always pick the perfect time to go bonk.
> 
> Man, I'm just happy I have my back up AMD gaming rig. Would suck to go weeks again without a proper rig.


I hear you man, i am not saying that Asus is a bad brand in particular but GPU's are really bad i hear nothing but problems from them and on YouTube there is a lot of things that backup my claim.
If you have plans to get a new GPU, i can highly suggest MSI, you can't go wrong with them


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, when the 880 non-reference come out I will most likely get one of them since I'm ready to be done with this card. It has been nothing but trouble since I got it back in December.

Not sure what I'll do with my 780 after. I hate to sell it knowing the person getting could end up having it crap out in a few months time if they so much as attempt to use it as intended. If I put it in one of my other systems then it's still a problem I have to deal with. Kind of sucks.

I think the issue is with the VRM myself. For whatever reason they seem to get hot as hell even at stock. The rep told me they were safe up to 125c, which is 20c over what I read everywhere else. When I did my stress testing the VRM never went past 80c. The game I was playing when it crapped out was putting strain on it since the in game Vsync sucks... I have a custom fan curve set up, and the card even wide open never went past 70c on the core. Even then, most of the time it was more like 60c... I mean, how much do I have to baby this thing. I have it set up to use 80% fan speed at 70c, and 100% at 80c.

*Shipped that sucker out to get repaired or replaced... This is why I don't buy used main components. As is I can play back and forth with this GPU for 2 years, used and you're basically stuck with what you've got.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> Hello there, this is my first post here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running actually a 965BE on a DFI LanParty DK 790FXB M3H5, I'm upgrading to a FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 to get USB 3.0, Sata 3 etc ...
> 
> I didnt read the entire thread (1026 pages!) but got some interesting infos btw
> 
> Still some questions :
> 
> 1° my ram is a 2x2Gb OCZ Platinum kit 1600 7-6-6-24-1T @ 1.9v, will it be ok to run such old chips @ 1.9v ?
> I can get them run @ 17xx with these timings, I wish to keep them
> 
> 2° as I read a lot of messages about vrm and chipsets temperatures issues, I'm wondering if is worth to pull out that ugly and tick pad under heatsink vrm and put some Arctic Ceramique in place ? already done on the SB ...
> 
> 
> 
> 3° Do you think average temp (chipsets and vrm) will be slightly less with a 965 compared to a FX ? Actually it runs @ 4.0 Ghz (1.43v) - NB 2600
> Temp are good under a NH-D14 and a very good air flow into a big lian li case
> 
> Waiting for a new psu to install and will be back to give you my feedback
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot and greetings from Belgium !


1.The motherboard will support that high of a voltage for the memory. 1.9 volts is a lot of voltage for ram though. Run it at its stock voltage perhaps? If that is their stock voltage, then perhaps get a newer set of ram.

2.VRM temps should not be an issue with the 965 I wouldn't bother with replacing the vrm pad, but it wouldn't hurt to do so.

3. The 965 uses less power than the FX family cpus with the exception being the quad core FX. The problems with the VRM cooling are with the Octocore FX chips when overclocked. Since the FX power consumption goes though the roof at higher voltages and speeds active cooling is needed to keep the VRM section cool. I have not seen anyone complain about VRM temps using any of the Phenom/Thuban Cpus.


----------



## Manganez72

Thanks for the infos ebduncan









Yes the kit is rated 1.9v (bought in 2009 I guess) maybe time indeed to replace it by a 16gb kit but I like these low timings !

Another question : is the NB frequency limited (~2600max) by the board istelf or by the FX cpu's ? I know its not an issue to run it @ 2800/2900 on my setup (@1.3v), with a good phenom that supports it, it improves nicely the bandwidth ! of course it gets hotter ...


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> Thanks for the infos ebduncan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes the kit is rated 1.9v (bought in 2009 I guess) maybe time indeed to replace it by a 16gb kit but I like these low timings !
> 
> Another question : is the NB frequency limited (~2600max) by the board istelf or by the FX cpu's ? I know its not an issue to run it @ 2800/2900 on my setup (@1.3v), with a good phenom that supports it, it improves nicely the bandwidth ! of course it gets hotter ...


CPU NB is entirely up to the CPU. Its not a board thing. The phenom core chips do much better in the NB department than the FX chips do .


----------



## Manganez72

Rather good new ! Even if fx's are really cheap I will keep my old phenom for now ... until









Thanks again, appreciated


----------



## mus1mus

1.9 volts for the ram would be painful for the fx. But if your phenom supports it, I think you're fine.


----------



## Mega Man

isnt that ram ddr2? if so isnt 2.1 normal volts for them ???


----------



## mus1mus

No.

Speed alone says that.

But I'm a bit skeptic on the Voltage Rating.


----------



## Mega Man

i didnt see he said they were rated, sorry just that he was running them there

early ddr3 was high volts though ( iirc 1.7-1.8 ) a 1.9v kit would not surprise me that much


----------



## mus1mus

All good man.

I have tried 1.8 on the RAM and it was wonky on the temps and all.


----------



## hurricane28

Mine G.Skills are standard 1.5 volts.

I noticed that they do not like high voltages since they get unstable because of that. when i run them at 2400MHz i set the voltage to 1.720 in bios and get 1.664 in Windows. So with my ram less voltage works best.


----------



## Manganez72

When I said _old chips_ ... but I remember other brands ( gskill, kingston, adata, ... ) also made high voltage ddr3 at that time ~2008/2009


Spoiler: This is the kit







But thats nothing compared to old good BH-5 wich got crazy with almost 4.0v to get [email protected]+fsb ...old good time









JEDEC : PC133 3.3v - DDR 2.5v - DDR2 1.8v - DDR3 1.5v - if I'm not wrong !?


----------



## slick2500

I had some bh5 ram back in the 939 days, had it running at 2-2-2-5 at 500 MHz at like 3.6 volts the my fan died that was cooling my ram then my ram fried was a sad day =(

Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away........


----------



## DarkJoney

Guys, I need our opinion. I have now HyperX Blue which was choosen for ASUS mobo, but I dont like solid blue on this mobo. How do we think, what RAM looks amazing at 990FXA-UD5?
I want to get Mushkin BlackLine or Corsair Vengeance Pro.


----------



## mus1mus

Looks, that's subjective really. Performance, Gskills..


----------



## woosh87

G.SKILL ARES have a nice blue colour. might be bit to rich though. or crucial ballistix tracer do a nice blue too.


----------



## woosh87

sorry forgot to add these bad boys. im in love with them lol, Avexir Core Series (Blue LED). check out the looks on youtube.


----------



## Regnitto

Sorry to leave the RAM topic, but does anyone know of a good waterblock for the vrm and chipsets for the UD3 rev4.0?


----------



## mus1mus

Has to be custom for the VRM. Or generic VRM block with a custom cut copper plate.

Chipset should require some mod last time someone did it.


----------



## Uclid

hay i'd love to know if u come across any UD3 mobo water blocks. Its funny tho i love the board as is so i dont know if i realy wont to pull of the heat sinks


----------



## hurricane28

I have the same mb and i have the G.skill RipjawsX blue and they look amazing IMO the looks and performance is unmatched.

http://www.overclock.net/products/g-skill-8gb-2-x-4gb-ripjaws-x-series-ddr3-1600mhz-pc3-12800-240-pin-desktop-memory-model-f3-12800cl8d-8gbxm

Or you can go with the Ares series thats the low profile form G.Skill.

http://www.gskill.com/en/press/view/g-skill-launches-its-new-ares--low-profile-extreme-performance-ddr3-memory-kits


----------



## ginger_nuts

Gee's I feel boring with black Corsair Vengeance


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Has to be custom for the VRM. Or generic VRM block with a custom cut copper plate.
> 
> Chipset should require some mod last time someone did it.


After going through all the MOSFET and Chipset water blocks on frozencpu.com, that's what I was thinking, just thought I'd see if I missed one. I saw several for Gigabyte Intel boards, but none for 990fxa








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Uclid*
> 
> hay i'd love to know if u come across any UD3 mobo water blocks. *Its funny tho i love the board as is so i dont know if i realy wont to pull of the heat sinks*


I feel the same way, I love the look of the heat syncs on this board, but I've heard about warping around the VRM on he rev 3.0 and although I don't know if they fixed that or not for the rev 4.0 I'd hate to find out the hard way. I'm already running my vcore up to 1.512 on an air cooled fx-6100 to get 4.5ghz. I don't remember my VRM temps under load but i'm sure it's getting pretty warm.


----------



## Mega Man

they make them for the ud7 but no others


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Gee's I feel boring with black Corsair Vengeance


same over here
very reliable tough


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> After going through all the MOSFET and Chipset water blocks on frozencpu.com, that's what I was thinking, just thought I'd see if I missed one. I saw several for Gigabyte Intel boards, but none for 990fxa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel the same way, I love the look of the heat syncs on this board, but I've heard about warping around the VRM on he rev 3.0 and although I don't know if they fixed that or not for the rev 4.0 I'd hate to find out the hard way. I'm already running my vcore up to 1.512 on an air cooled fx-6100 to get 4.5ghz. I don't remember my VRM temps under load but i'm sure it's getting pretty warm.


UD3/970 ek waterblocks are discontinued and quite impossible to find nowadays.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> UD3/970 ek waterblocks are discontinued and quite impossible to find nowadays.


That sucks....any suggestions on how to mount a fan to blow on the VRM?


----------



## mus1mus

I've made a fan mounting bracket for a couple of 80mm fans using an angular aluminum attached to the rear exhaust fan.

Fans sit just atop the rear IO and covers up to the VRM sinks.
















Caution: Drill Needed









But things is, you'll not gonna leave any marks on the stock VRM heatsink by doing that.

Zipties will do for a much easier mounting.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I've made a fan mounting bracket for a couple of 80mm fans using an angular aluminum attached to the rear exhaust fan.
> 
> Fans sit just atop the rear IO and covers up to the VRM sinks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Caution: Drill Needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But things is, you'll not gonna leave any marks on the stock VRM heatsink by doing that.
> 
> Zipties will do for a much easier mounting.


I think I'll try making the mounting bracket once i build my loop. fitting will be a bit too tight with my current air cooler. not pushing enough heat out of the VRM yet anyway. Once I get my loop built tho.......


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> After going through all the MOSFET and Chipset water blocks on frozencpu.com, that's what I was thinking, just thought I'd see if I missed one. I saw several for Gigabyte Intel boards, but none for 990fxa
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel the same way, I love the look of the heat syncs on this board, *but I've heard about warping around the VRM on he rev 3.0 and although I don't know if they fixed that or not for the rev 4.0 I'd hate to find out the hard way*. I'm already running my vcore up to 1.512 on an air cooled fx-6100 to get 4.5ghz. I don't remember my VRM temps under load but i'm sure it's getting pretty warm.


No I don't think they fixed it, my entire motherboard is warped all the way across.......


----------



## Regnitto

That sucks


----------



## mus1mus

Well, simple reason is that the voltages and clocks pushed on the UD3 rev3 toast the VRMs. Not sure how you guys pushed it to create issues like warping but my dead board is still pretty flat on the VRM area by about 1.512 Volts on all eight Cores.

But I used a fan on mine ever since I started pushing the chip.


----------



## slick2500

Even the back plate for my cpu cooler got warped.


----------



## mus1mus

BS

That is user error if that's your point.









Pics or it never happened!


----------



## slick2500

I had the same cpu cooler on another board for the past 2 years and that board never warped.
Here is a pic of the heatsink off my VRMs to show how much the board warped.


----------



## mus1mus

did not show your cooler's backplate being warped.


----------



## Chargeit

Man, My Asus GTX 780 DCUii OC has once again seemed to disappear into their RMA system.

I mailed that SOB out 7/22/2014. They received it 7/24/2014... And still it doesn't show up in their systems...

I'm telling you guys, the largest computer mistake I've made is messing with Asus. When it comes to returns, they just don't give a crap. They'll lose your items, leave you in the dark, and not attempt to keep you informed about your products return process...

Last time I had to contact amazon about it to get anything done. I kind of assumed that was a fluke, but here I am, a 2nd time with the same lack of concern about making sure I know *** is going on.

Never freaking again man.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Man, My Asus GTX 780 DCUii OC has once again seemed to disappear into their RMA system.
> 
> I mailed that SOB out 7/22/2014. They received it 7/24/2014... And still it doesn't show up in their systems...
> 
> I'm telling you guys, the largest computer mistake I've made is messing with Asus. When it comes to returns, they just don't give a crap. They'll lose your items, leave you in the dark, and not attempt to keep you informed about your products return process...
> 
> Last time I had to contact amazon about it to get anything done. I kind of assumed that was a fluke, but here I am, a 2nd time with the same lack of concern about making sure I know *** is going on.
> 
> Never freaking again man.


I am sorry to hear that man.

I have had it with Asus as well, their products suck and as a company they are no better.

You need to call them and confront them with it man, they HAVE to send you a new one. If you still have the ticket or the invoice you have to show them and you will get a new one.

Good luck man


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I am sorry to hear that man.
> 
> I have had it with Asus as well, their products suck and as a company they are no better.
> 
> You need to call them and confront them with it man, they HAVE to send you a new one. If you still have the ticket or the invoice you have to show them and you will get a new one.
> 
> Good luck man


Yea, I'm going to wait until tomorrow. It's easier to get in touch with them early I noticed. The issue being they'll just butter me up and basically do nothing. It's cool though, in the end I'll write another email to Amazon about it. The last time I did that Amazon overnighted me a new replacement. I'd really like to avoid that though. I try and keep a strong history with the company I do online business with so that when I do have real problems, such as with Asus they take it serious. I figure if after 14 days they haven't gotten it figured out, I'll write Amazon.

Never again with Asus.

It has been cool using my AMD system though, and proves that me putting together a 2nd system with gaming in mind wasn't a total waste of money. Without it, I'd be without a gaming system which would. This FX8320 does great with my R9-270x. Feels like a very proper match for settings and performance I expect and get.

Main thing I'm missing are the comfort of having the system set up with my main components (keyboard/mouse/monitors/speakers). I could switch my systems around, but I don't feel like reworking everything... Though with as slow as Asus is, I might end up doing it.


----------



## slick2500

Sent off my board for rma, hopefully I get a working board back. I should have just gotten the Sabertooth board like I wanted to in the first place.

Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away........


----------



## Chargeit

Well, my GPU is supposed to be here by Monday.

It had finally showed up in the system, then yesterday I realized it was missing again. I had to call Asus about it today to find out that it was shipped out yesterday I guess.

Them SOB really don't like keeping you in the loop.

*I just replaced my 4770k with a 4790k (4770k was a bad oc'er) and haven't really gotten a chance to put it to use since I don't have a GPU in the system... The igp is better then nothing. Least I was able to use it to make sure everything was up and running... Oh, and this 4790k looks like it's going to be a really good OC'er... At stock it maxes out at 1.168V doing 44, where my 4770k maxed out at 1.268 or so at 39 stock. I likely won't be oc'ing it yet though, since 44 is way more then enough for gaming.


----------



## mus1mus

More than enough CPU is not accepted here on OCN.









Let us know how much you can push it. Might grab one!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> More than enough CPU is not accepted here on OCN.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let us know how much you can push it. Might grab one!


Lol.

I'll give it a go. From everything I can see, if this one scales it will be a very good oc'er.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Oh they dont
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but since the description says Ultra Durable 3 i think it would be a 1.x version (as i can remember, the rev 3 has Ultra 4)
> Would be any difference in performance or any other "important" feature i will miss if i buy an 1.x?


Have you checked to see if Newegg's ebay will ship internationally? You could try Tiger Direct (they do ship international, but I don't know the costs) as well.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Sent off my board for rma, hopefully I get a working board back. I should have just gotten the Sabertooth board like I wanted to in the first place.
> 
> Sent from A Galaxy Far Far Away........


From my experience Gigabyte has an excellent rma department. They are fast and actually fix the hardware before sending it back to you (free of charge). I'd much rather rma a Gigabyte board than even think about going through the hell that is Asus customer (dis)service. Before wishing you had purchased the Sabertooth just look around OCN at the horror stories of trying to get anything fixed by them under warranty.
My 970a-ud3 rev.1.1 was sent in for repair twice. I had a g550 power supply melt itself to the motherboard. The warranty doesn't cover electrical damage. Gigabyte still fixed it. Free of charge. The LAN port went out. They fixed it again. The board is still going strong. Asus looks better on paper. The claim a 5 year warranty. But what good is a 5 year warranty from a company that won't honor it? I'll stick with Gigabyte.


----------



## Blaise170

To add to above - just look at my thread about Asus.


----------



## Regnitto

Listening to you guys made me decide to go with a Gigabyte R9 280 vs an ASUS R9 280. Now to get money.........lol I did finally purchase an ssd tho


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Listening to you guys made me decide to go with a Gigabyte R9 280 vs an ASUS R9 280. Now to get money.........lol I did finally purchase an ssd tho


I haven't been impressed with my Asus DCUii 780. It runs hot and can't hold its boost clock. I've manged to kill two of them, the first was at stock, the 2nd was OC'ed... My little PowerColor HD 7850 can be OC'ed to the breaking point and keep on kicking. Something is up with Asus GPU if you ask me.

Dealing with Asus RMA is a nightmare. They are slow, and have no level of communication. They don't even bother to send you a email about the status of your stuff.

I'll be avoiding Asus like the plague from here on out. When I had the option between a HIS or Asus 270x, I picked the HIS and have not been disappointed. The thing is a beast, and holds its stock OC without breaking a sweat. Runs cool, and is quiet.

*Nice about the SSD... The things are life changing.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> *Nice about the SSD... The things are life changing.


That's what I've heard. just waiting on shipping, lol.


----------



## Regnitto

Just had a friend come over for the first time since i put my computer up on top of my desk. His first words when coming in the door: "Whoa! That's awesome! Now that I can see it, it's really bad ass!" - Just the reaction I was hoping for!










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






*I know my cable management is horrible.
*thanks to everyone on this thread and the OCN community for helping me along the way


----------



## Chargeit

We all have our dirty secrets...

Front,



Back,












I did have that back managed much better, but I had issues with the hot swap bays that forced me to pull it all out... I never tightened it back up.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> We all have our dirty secrets...
> 
> Front,
> 
> 
> 
> Back,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have that back managed much better, but I had issues with the hot swap bays that forced me to pull it all out... I never tightened it back up.


makes me feel a little better, lol


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Listening to you guys made me decide to go with a Gigabyte R9 280 vs an ASUS R9 280. Now to get money.........lol I did finally purchase an ssd tho


Since i think you are interested in water cooling i'd avoid gigabyte GPUs, as far as i know, GB gpus are often not compatible with most of waterblocks ;-;. There are some 7970s/280 GB boards i liked (and caught at decent price) but there aren't waterblocks for most of them


----------



## mus1mus

Yep. Local trade forum here is flooded by sellers trying to get rid of their toxic 280Xs for cheap but after knowing about em blocks, I lost the interest. But might consider them using generic blocks. But the VRM layout is a PITA to cool using waterblocks!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Yep. Local trade forum here is flooded by sellers trying to get rid of their toxic 280Xs for cheap but after knowing about em blocks, I lost the interest. But might consider them using generic blocks. But the VRM layout is a PITA to cool using waterblocks!


I read that and decided to take a look at the sales.

I'm going to pick up one of those MSI 750 TI to use as a PhysX card. From what I've read, a dedicated PhysX card goes a long way, and the 750 ti's are the best bang for buck option.



You can see how big of a advantage it is paired with a 780 in titles like Borderlands 2 which I play often online with my friends.

The only crap part is I just transferred the money I made from my 4770k to my bank account so I now have to send money to my paypal. Hope that happens quick because I've been avoiding some of the game I have because it annoys me that I can't max out PhysX without taking a performance hit.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Since i think you are interested in water cooling i'd avoid gigabyte GPUs, as far as i know, GB gpus are often not compatible with most of waterblocks ;-;. There are some 7970s/280 GB boards i liked (and caught at decent price) but there aren't waterblocks for most of them


what gpu would you recommend? I'm not really looking into adding gpu into my loop when i build it initially this christmas, but I would hate to go to upgrade my loop or add a second loop only to find I need to replace my gpu to add a waterblock. I've got a very tight budget for my build and have to pretty much do it one thing at a time, and I would be pissed if I had to replace a $230 gpu just cuz it won't work in a loop.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Since i think you are interested in water cooling i'd avoid gigabyte GPUs, as far as i know, GB gpus are often not compatible with most of waterblocks ;-;. There are some 7970s/280 GB boards i liked (and caught at decent price) but there aren't waterblocks for most of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> what gpu would you recommend? I'm not really looking into adding gpu into my loop when i build it initially this christmas, but I would hate to go to upgrade my loop or add a second loop only to find I need to replace my gpu to add a waterblock. I've got a very tight budget for my build and have to pretty much do it one thing at a time, and I would be pissed if I had to replace a $230 gpu just cuz it won't work in a loop.
Click to expand...

Most Custom 280Xs have revised 7970 PCBs.

PowerColors, VTX3Ds, and HIS are your best bet if you go for 280Xs

Most 7970s though are supported.

Check EK's Cooling Configurator


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Yep. Local trade forum here is flooded by sellers trying to get rid of their toxic 280Xs for cheap but after knowing about em blocks, I lost the interest. But might consider them using generic blocks. But the VRM layout is a PITA to cool using waterblocks!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I read that and decided to take a look at the sales.
> 
> I'm going to pick up one of those MSI 750 TI to use as a PhysX card. From what I've read, a dedicated PhysX card goes a long way, and the 750 ti's are the best bang for buck option.
> 
> 
> 
> You can see how big of a advantage it is paired with a 780 in titles like Borderlands 2 which I play often online with my friends.
> 
> The only crap part is I just transferred the money I made from my 4770k to my bank account so I now have to send money to my paypal. Hope that happens quick because I've been avoiding some of the game I have because it annoys me that I can't max out PhysX without taking a performance hit.
Click to expand...

Can you show the complete link for that review?

There is actually a break-even point using a dedicated PhysX card to Performance.

Performance gain Vs. Cost that is.




But yeah, that 750Tis are cheap, gonna make a lot of gain over cost.


----------



## Chargeit

http://alienbabeltech.com/main/using-maxwells-gtx-750-ti-dedicated-physx-card/

I first found that chart on another site I think. I'm not sure who really did the bench.

One thing they mentioned is it helps a lot to avoid the fps tanking hard when using a dedicated physx card.

I'll tell you max PhysX in borderlands 2 online with 3 - 4 people kills it some times. I think the main issue is my card down throttles playing the game to 888MHZ, and when it needs the extra speed it has to kick back up to my boost which causes fps drop.

Yea, $100 for it isn't bad at all. It will make a nice back up card if I have troubles with my Asus again, and keep Physx from tanking fps when maxed out.

I usually don't like buying used, but for something like this I'm willing to gamble.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Most Custom 280Xs have revised 7970 PCBs.
> 
> PowerColors, VTX3Ds, and HIS are your best bet if you go for 280Xs
> 
> Most 7970s though are supported.
> 
> Check EK's Cooling Configurator


Well, I'm going for a plain 280 vs the 280x because of price, and the powercolors 280 looks like it would need an overclock just to match the gigabyte windforce 280 out of the box based on specs i'm reading......I may just go stick with the gb for price and can crossfire later if i need more rather that go for extreme oc on the card........


----------



## shaju

Hello sorry if i post in wrong section. My gigabyte 990fxa ud3 bios got corrupted .its not recovering fron backup bios. can someone dump their working bios rom using flashrom in ubuntu please.. I tried using fc bios file from giagabyte website still no goog i think i am doing someting wrong with file offset. so i need to compare the working one with fc file.


----------



## luis vasquez

good'm new to the forum and I need help I have a gigabyte 990FXA-ud3 motherboard and 16 gb corsair vengeance 2400 and fx 8150 processor oc 4.2 ghz stable. the issues is that I could not make it work stable memory to 2400MHz stable not my machine it starts but does not work well it is currently run 2133MHz stable normal ...... would like to know what are the steps in the bios to place those memories stable at 2400 .... I would like to know as I do that things do I place...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luis vasquez*
> 
> good'm new to the forum and I need help I have a gigabyte 990FXA-ud3 motherboard and 16 gb corsair vengeance 2400 and fx 8150 processor oc 4.2 ghz stable. the issues is that I could not make it work stable memory to 2400MHz stable not my machine it starts but does not work well it is currently run 2133MHz stable normal ...... would like to know what are the steps in the bios to place those memories stable at 2400 .... I would like to know as I do that things do I place...


Capture bios screen shots, and further details on your rig.


----------



## Mega Man

dont even bother, 8150s will not run 2400s, someone is welcome to post a screen saying i am wrong, but i have yet to see a x1xx run them ! ( Bulldozer )


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dont even bother, 8150s will not run 2400s, someone is welcome to post a screen saying i am wrong, but i have yet to see a x1xx run them ! ( Bulldozer )


I was confused at first since I ran 2400 on my FX-6300 but then I noticed the 1.


----------



## Maticb

I'm sorry if this has been anwsered already but is there any WC block for the VRMs on the GA-990FXA-UD3? Would this fit?

http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel-1.html

(I seriously doubt it but hey still gonna ask)

I know the EK-AMD or whatever it's named fits on it, but its EOL and I can't seem to find any used ones... Actually I can't even find the UD7 board for sale anywhere they only sell the UD5 and UD3. I really want to push my CPU to 5GHz and I cant do it with the VRMs throttling and overheating


----------



## mus1mus

None. Should be generic ones that come with a copper plate that you need to shape to fit the VRMs.

And before you do so, makes sure its not a rev3


----------



## Duality92

We should start a spreadsheet with the following columns:

board
board rev
cpu
frenquency (mhz)
bclkxmulti
bios voltage
load voltage
validation link
type of stability (benching, 24/7, etc.)

It could give us an idea of what others are acheiving with these boards, I don't mind starting









GA-990FXA-UD3
rev:4
FX-6350
5175
225x23
1.45v
1.52v
http://valid.canardpc.com/9ai330
24/7 stable


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> None. Should be generic ones that come with a copper plate that you need to shape to fit the VRMs.
> 
> And before you do so, makes sure its not a rev3


What is wrong with the Rev 3? It is rev 3.


----------



## luis vasquez

This are some pictures of my system I'll be up the bios of my cell


----------



## ebduncan

Been awhile since I posted here.

I retired my UD3 rev 1.0 Up until today. I took it back out slapped in a 6350. Turned it into a budget webserver for my gaming clan website. My main computer now has the Asrock Extreme 9 motherboard in it. I must say its far superior to the UD3.

little back ground, i retired the ud3 originally because the lan went out on it, as well as several usb ports. I couldn't put a lan card in the machine due to the slots on the board being filled by other things. So I just opted to get a new board. Figured I would use the ud3 as a server rig as I could put a lan card in it and well its not like i need lots of usb ports for that function. So its back to humming along.

I must say the VRM section on the Extreme 9 is far better than the UD3. No warping, no over heating problems, I don't even have a fan on them. I removed the cosmetic piece on the heatsinks to expose the entire heatsink and well that's all i've done. I'm humming along at 5ghz with the voltage being 1.475 volts. Prime stable. Nothing new here the UD3 actually was a tad better in this regard as I could run 5ghz with 1.45 volts.

However I am able to run at 5.2ghz now @ 1.55 volts prime stable, something the UD3 would not do. Granted I don't run this speed everyday esp now that it is summer time. In all I'm glad I changed the board out for my main rig.


----------



## luis vasquez

ok this is the bios of my pc will see that the reports are working on 2133 mhz stable and porcesador in 4.23 ghz stable voltages without moving or anything now that I would do for them in 2400 and I work pc stable without errors


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> What is wrong with the Rev 3? It is rev 3.


With 8 core FX's the Rev 3 boards overheat the VRM's to the point the board warps. You'll get voltage and frequency throttling. Best thing to do is fix it before it happens. Reinforce the VRM area, there have been a few guys who posted up ways to do it. Invest in a fan for the VRM's. I used a 80mm fan off a stock AMD heatsink. I even went so far as to add a copper cooler to my VRM's.


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> With 8 core FX's the Rev 3 boards overheat the VRM's to the point the board warps. You'll get voltage and frequency throttling. Best thing to do is fix it before it happens. Reinforce the VRM area, there have been a few guys who posted up ways to do it. Invest in a fan for the VRM's. I used a 80mm fan off a stock AMD heatsink. I even went so far as to add a copper cooler to my VRM's.


Ok, thanks for the explanation. Well mine works fine until like 1.4V but I need 1.5V to reach 5GHz, which starts to throttle down on cores because of VRMs (CPU maxes out at 66C on my poor WC loop)

Thing is I know I should add a fan to them if I want to OC it more, but I'd much preffer a waterblock, but seems like i wont get one on this board, and I probably wont get money to change it until I change the entire CPU+MOBO combo.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> Been awhile since I posted here.
> 
> I retired my UD3 rev 1.0 Up until today. I took it back out slapped in a 6350. Turned it into a budget webserver for my gaming clan website. My main computer now has the Asrock Extreme 9 motherboard in it. I must say its far superior to the UD3.
> 
> little back ground, i retired the ud3 originally because the lan went out on it, as well as several usb ports. I couldn't put a lan card in the machine due to the slots on the board being filled by other things. So I just opted to get a new board. Figured I would use the ud3 as a server rig as I could put a lan card in it and well its not like i need lots of usb ports for that function. So its back to humming along.
> 
> I must say the VRM section on the Extreme 9 is far better than the UD3. No warping, no over heating problems, I don't even have a fan on them. I removed the cosmetic piece on the heatsinks to expose the entire heatsink and well that's all i've done. I'm humming along at 5ghz with the voltage being 1.475 volts. Prime stable. Nothing new here the UD3 actually was a tad better in this regard as I could run 5ghz with 1.45 volts.
> 
> However I am able to run at 5.2ghz now @ 1.55 volts prime stable, something the UD3 would not do. Granted I don't run this speed everyday esp now that it is summer time. In all I'm glad I changed the board out for my main rig.


My UD5 is far superior to my old Extreme 4.


----------



## Alxz

Hi guys, i guess today i have bad luck









Today my UD5 blew out a VRM chip, i'm using the stock heatsink and something cracked and started to smell like burning sillicon when testing the board. The smell comes near of the vrm heatsink so its probably there. Do i have any warranty against this? is not even 1 year old.

AND

Today i bought an UD7 from ebay and i can't make it to POST (i dont know if its my video card or psu or the mobo) but i can't get any single debug LED, it only blinks a bit at starting but thats all.

Ah this sucks


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Hi guys, i guess today i have bad luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Today my UD5 blew out a VRM chip, i'm using the stock heatsink and something cracked and started to smell like burning sillicon when testing the board. The smell comes near of the vrm heatsink so its probably there. Do i have any warranty against this? is not even 1 year old.
> 
> AND
> 
> Today i bought an UD7 from ebay and i can't make it to POST (i dont know if its my video card or psu or the mobo) but i can't get any single debug LED, it only blinks a bit at starting but thats all.
> 
> Ah this sucks


Maybe you fried the CPU?


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Maybe you fried the CPU?


You think so??

i think i wrote the things kind of backwards, i tested the UD7 first then burned the Ud5 after


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> You think so??
> 
> i think i wrote the things kind of backwards, i tested the UD7 first then burned the Ud5 after


Ah, got you. So the UD7 didn't work before you had the UD5 issue?

You might want to look into getting a PSU tester, or, use a multimeter if you're worried about the PSU.

I'd RMA the UD5. Don't say anything about OC'ing, and if they ask act like you don't know what they're talking about.

While you're RMA'ing the UD5, might as well send out the CPU just in case.

Not sure about the UD7, maybe complain to Ebay that it was "DOA".


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Ah, got you. So the UD7 didn't work before you had the UD5 issue?
> 
> You might want to look into getting a PSU tester, or, use a multimeter if you're worried about the PSU.
> 
> I'd RMA the UD5. Don't say anything about OC'ing, and if they ask act like you don't know what they're talking about.
> 
> While you're RMA'ing the UD5, might as well send out the CPU just in case.
> 
> Not sure about the UD7, maybe complain to Ebay that it was "DOA".


Yeah thanks, i'll try to RMA the UD5. i'm living in México and bought the UD7 from US, i'll try to RMA it aswell if i can. Damn how long would take all this process haha?


----------



## Chargeit

Oh, yea that's another thing. You may be able to RMA that UD7, as long as you don't say you bought it used. Assuming it isn't registered or something. I know when I RMA'ed my 780, Asus just took it. The thing could of been 2nd hand twice over for all they knew.

It's likely to take awhile if you have to send it out of country, and cost a bit... Maybe you can get them to pay for shipping, though I'd be surprised if it took less then a 3 weeks - 1 month.

*You could try for a advanced RMA, where they send you a board, and they take yours. Might end up causing you problems though, if for some reason they have issues with the fact that the board looks like it was damaged through OC'ing.


----------



## Regnitto

got my ssd today. But realized when I opened the box that I forgot to get a 3.5-2.5 adapter







oh, well. I'll make it work for now. Alzx, good luck with the RMA.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> We should start a spreadsheet with the following columns:
> 
> board
> board rev
> cpu
> frenquency (mhz)
> bclkxmulti
> bios voltage
> load voltage
> validation link
> type of stability (benching, 24/7, etc.)
> 
> It could give us an idea of what others are acheiving with these boards, I don't mind starting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3
> rev:4
> FX-6350
> 5175
> 225x23
> 1.45v
> 1.52v
> http://valid.canardpc.com/9ai330
> 24/7 stable


Here's mine:

GA-990FXA-UD3
rev: 4
FX-6100
4504mhz
231x19.5
don't remember bios volt setting but will check and update








1.452v idle 1.512v load
CPU-Z Validation


----------



## Chargeit

3.5" to 2.5" adaptor












I really wouldn't use duct tape on my SSD btw. You should be able to find something to place it on easily enough. Hell, I've seen people use double sided tape to stick it to the inside of the case or base.


----------



## mus1mus

Ive screwd them on to the drive bays on just one side. 2 screws on one side is enough to keep them locked and secured.

They're light with no moving parts so no issues.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> My UD5 is far superior to my old Extreme 4.


I have the Extreme 9. Which is a better board than the extreme 4 by far. I'd compare the Extreme 9 to the UD7 but i don't have a UD7 sitting around. I'd be willing to bet I'd like the Extreme 9 better.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I have the Extreme 9. Which is a better board than the extreme 4 by far. I'd compare the Extreme 9 to the UD7 but i don't have a UD7 sitting around. I'd be willing to bet I'd like the Extreme 9 better.


Heh, Extreme4 is a 970 chipset anyways.







But in any case, it seems like the UD3 is hit or miss. One of the reasons I went with UD5 over it.


----------



## Roaches

I just bought a GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev 3 several minutes ago from Ebay in a last attempt to revive my FX-8350 which has been sitting mint in box for over a year now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231301661009?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Mosfets for the UD5 Rev 3 are SiC769CD http://www.vishay.com/docs/64981/sic769cd.pdf
Which are rated 35A, hopefully enough to run an overclocked 8 core FX...

I don't know much of the details of its VRM controller whether its analog or digital, but according to Gigabyte they're saying its a slit powerphase design, likely 4+1 * 2.

Images : http://www.gdm.or.jp/review/2013/0324/24007/2





http://www.gdm.or.jp/review/2013/0324/24007/6

They've manage to clock it to 5Ghz according to the review, so I'm hoping its a good board when I test it with my 8 core FX when it arrives.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Here's mine:
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3
> rev: 4
> FX-6100
> 4504mhz
> 231x19.5
> *don't remember bios volt setting but will check and update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> 1.452v idle 1.512v load
> CPU-Z Validation


1.4375v extreme llc bios

Also, my new monitor came today! ASUS 22" 1080p hdmi







so good to finally have a nice monitor. And yay to Amazon for having good, fast shipping


----------



## luis vasquez

hi i am new in the group and this is my pc configuration of pictures ....... my problem is this I have a kit of memory 16 gb corsair 2400 mhz but I could only get them to work at 2133 mhz stable voltages without moving or anything I wish I could know how to do to sibirlas 2400 and work stable if anyone can help there to see pictures of my settings and my pc bios motherboard is a gigabyte 990FXA-UD3


----------



## luis vasquez

hi i am new in the group and this is my pc configuration of pictures ....... my problem is this I have a kit of memory 16 gb corsair 2400 mhz but I could only get them to work at 2133 mhz stable voltages without moving or anything I wish I could know how to do to upload to 2400 and stable working
here if anyone can help me see the images of my settings and my pc bios motherboard is a gigabyte 990FXA-UD3


----------



## luis vasquez

hi i am new in the group and this is my pc configuration of pictures ....... my problem is this I have a kit of memory 16 gb corsair 2400 mhz but I could only get them to work at 2133 mhz stable voltages without moving or anything I wish I could know how to do to upload to 2400 and stable working there if anyone can help me see the images of my settings and my pc bios motherboard is a gigabyte 990FXA-UD3


----------



## Duality92

did you set it at 1.65v? Also, have you tried using it as profile1?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luis vasquez*
> 
> hi i am new in the group and this is my pc configuration of pictures ....... my problem is this I have a kit of memory 16 gb corsair 2400 mhz but I could only get them to work at 2133 mhz stable voltages without moving or anything I wish I could know how to do to upload to 2400 and stable working there if anyone can help me see the images of my settings and my pc bios motherboard is a gigabyte 990FXA-UD3


hi and welcome,

Set the DRAM E.O.C.P to profile1 and it loads automatically the optimized speeds and voltage that is required for that set of RAM.

Also need to set the CPU/NB to at least 2600 otherwise it cannot keep up with ram speed. Maybe its in the profile too but if not set it to 2600 manually. You do need some extra CPU/NB volts to get it stable tho so be aware of the temps.

Good luck


----------



## luis vasquez

use that profile 1 and did not work and that's why I ask for help to know what I have to do because if I put the profile and restart EOCP 1 pc errors strip


----------



## luis vasquez

use that profile 1 and did not work and that's why I ask for help to know what I have to do because if I put the profile and restart EOCP 1 pc errors strip


----------



## hurricane28

Alright fair enough, you must know that most FX chips can't run 2400MHz ram and to be honest you don't see an huge improvement.

You can select the 2400MHz option too and set the voltage to 1.725 in bios that will show slightly higher than 1.65 in windows. You can look your ram up on the Corsair page and see what timings you need for that ram to work. If all of that does not work your chip cannot handle 2400Mhz ram and you should get some nice 1866Mhz ram.

Good luck


----------



## mus1mus

Use FSB. But that will make things fussy


----------



## Alxz

woah
i guess i had better luck than yesterday (well today is my birthday haha!)

I was almost sure that my ud7 was dead then a friend of mine gave me a sempron and amd low profile card to test it. Then woah, it booted! BIOS version was FC so probably my processor was the dead instead. Not a great deal since i was going to buy an 8320 this week


----------



## mus1mus

Good luck on picking a good chip









How do you know your chip is dead? What happened before that?


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Good luck on picking a good chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you know your chip is dead? What happened before that?


i don't know, i'm assuming my chip was dead because the ud7 worked with a sempron 145 cpu with an FC bios (which can take even the 9xxx processors).

the 6300 was always on my old ud5 so i dont think there is any pin damage.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Good luck on picking a good chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you know your chip is dead? What happened before that?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> i don't know, i'm assuming my chip was dead because the ud7 worked with a sempron 145 cpu with an FC bios (which can take even the 9xxx processors).
> 
> the 6300 was always on my old ud5 so i dont think there is any pin damage.
Click to expand...

hmm. anyways, be prepared to cool an 8-core FX if you do switch. That extra module can affect your temps massively.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> hmm. anyways, be prepared to cool an 8-core FX if you do switch. That extra module can affect your temps massively.


thanks! i'm already running a custom loop







, even bought the vrm waterblock for the ud7 haha honestly i'm excited


----------



## mus1mus

the UD7 has one of the coolest running VRMs on the 990FX line-up mobos. But it wouldn't hurt right?









Good luck with that!


----------



## Roaches

Actually the UD7 has the same driver mosfets and Phases as the UD5, they both should run equally cool unless the Rev 3 has updated VRMs, which I'm still trying to confirm through searches and reviews.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Actually the UD7 has the same driver mosfets and Phases as the UD5, they both should run equally cool unless the Rev 3 has updated VRMs, which I'm still trying to confirm through searches and reviews.


I know when I got my UD5, from what I could tell the differences between it, and the UD7 were one supported 3 gpu, the other 4, and a few other minor things. The UD7 wouldn't of worked in my case, so I got the UD5 (it would fit in my case, but the bottom Sata ports would of been blocked). With a Bios update, it has been a great board. I don't OC it anymore though, since my 8320 is in my back up computer. no reason to OC a system mainly used for checking email, and trolling forums.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> I just bought a GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev 3 several minutes ago from Ebay in a last attempt to revive my FX-8350 which has been sitting mint in box for over a year now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231301661009?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> 
> Mosfets for the UD5 Rev 3 are SiC769CD http://www.vishay.com/docs/64981/sic769cd.pdf
> Which are rated 35A, hopefully enough to run an overclocked 8 core FX...
> 
> I don't know much of the details of its VRM controller whether its analog or digital, but according to Gigabyte they're saying its a slit powerphase design, likely 4+1 * 2.
> 
> Images : http://www.gdm.or.jp/review/2013/0324/24007/2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.gdm.or.jp/review/2013/0324/24007/6
> 
> They've manage to clock it to 5Ghz according to the review, so I'm hoping its a good board when I test it with my 8 core FX when it arrives.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I know when I got my UD5, from what I could tell the differences between it, and the UD7 were one supported 3 gpu, the other 4, and a few other minor things. The UD7 wouldn't of worked in my case, so I got the UD5 (it would fit in my case, but the bottom Sata ports would of been blocked). With a Bios update, it has been a great board. I don't OC it anymore though, since my 8320 is in my back up computer. no reason to OC a system mainly used for checking email, and trolling forums.


I know the UD5 Rev 3 has the same as the UD7 Rev 1.X ; right now theres no review of the Rev 3 UD7










http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?273998-GIGABYTE-990FXA-UD7-Review-%28Analysis-Voltage-Ripple-Testing-Vdroop-Mod-Testing%29

Only visual difference is the chokes has changed and PCI-E slots have latches, also UEFI BIOS on both models.

And yeah UD7 is just for 4 way CFX/SLI support, where as the UD5 is up to 3 way. The price difference between the two is too high for something minor such as 1 extra PCI-E x16 slot :/

The Crosshair V Formula-Z is probably the best out of the rest in VRM quality and current capacity....

http://vr-zone.com/articles/asus-rog-crosshair-v-formula-z-990fx-review-ft-vishera-fx-8350-on-phase-change/17574.html/2


----------



## mus1mus

Crosshair for the extra ommpphhh.

But daily users wouldnt need them. Just reassurance that you can run them to the limits of your set-up.

UD7 hits a few enthusiasts that would or are opting for quad GPUs.

Correct me if I am wrong but the earlier rev UD3s (except rev 3 and 4) share the UD5s and the UD7s VRM chips.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Crosshair for the extra ommpphhh.
> 
> But daily users wouldnt need them. Just reassurance that you can run them to the limits of your set-up.
> 
> UD7 hits a few enthusiasts that would or are opting for quad GPUs.
> 
> Correct me if I am wrong but the earlier rev UD3s (except rev 3 and 4) share the UD5s and the UD7s VRM chips.


Nope, older versions of the UD3 had high side and low side mosfets where as the UD5 and 7 had integrated high and low side driver mosfets in a single solder package:

GA-990XA-UD3

GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 1.2


Also


Just found the Asrock Extreme 9 mosfets, these are 87350D NexFETs!! and the controller is Digital!! The UD5 and 7 uses an analog Intersil controller.
This probably the second best close to the Crosshair V Formula-Z and Sabertooth, I've yet to confirm the Sabertooth VRMs though...

Damn, dunno if I regret getting the UD5 now, oh well at least it was a steal at 90 dollars...


----------



## mus1mus

So the split chip per phase started on rev 1.2.

990XAs are not gonna be counted:







they just made an obvious stupid mistake not giving those VRMs heatsinks and give them support for 8-core FXs.

Anyway, UD5s are good as well.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Nope, older versions of the UD3 had high side and low side mosfets where as the UD5 and 7 had integrated high and low side driver mosfets in a single solder package:
> 
> GA-990XA-UD3
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 1.2
> 
> 
> Also
> 
> 
> Just found the Asrock Extreme 9 mosfets, these are 87350D NexFETs!! and the controller is Digital!! The UD5 and 7 uses an analog Intersil controller.
> This probably the second best close to the Crosshair V Formula-Z and Sabertooth, I've yet to confirm the Sabertooth VRMs though...
> 
> Damn, dunno if I regret getting the UD5 now, oh well at least it was a steal at 90 dollars...


Gigabyte are known of making one of the best boards out there, Asrock doesn't even come close to Asus and Gigabyte boards.

I don't know if digi vrm is so much better than analog vrm's, i clocked my chip to 5.2Ghz and for a little while it was stable but due to my very power hungry chip i cannot cool it with my current heat sink.

gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 is digital as well and hopefully they make an rev 4.0 for the UD5 as well and if they do, i buy it immediately.


----------



## Mega Man

They are. By far. I could bench at 5.5 before they upped the bios voltage limit on the kitty


----------



## hurricane28

I envy your chip man









The best i can get is 4.8 at 1.488 but to 5Ghz i need at least 1.58 or even 1.6 for it to be stable so high CPU/NB frequencies are out of the window because the temps will skyrocketing due to the high voltage...so 4.8Ghz with 2600 CPU/NB it is for now until i get some better cooling or i figure out something else.


----------



## Duality92

For example on the UD3 (rev4), mine runs my fx-6350 easily 24/7 @ 5175. I could do more, but I'm limited by heat.


----------



## ginger_nuts

My UD3 rev 4.0 & 8350 can only reach 4.7Ghz @ 1.45v rock stable.

@ 4.8Ghz I am pushing 1.5v and the mosfet's start throttling after about 20min. But in the future I will be watercooling them with the Koolance universal blocks hoping for a little more. But worse case is it will look nice


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> My UD3 rev 4.0 & 8350 can only reach 4.7Ghz @ 1.45v rock stable.
> 
> @ 4.8Ghz I am pushing 1.5v and the mosfet's start throttling after about 20min. But in the future I will be watercooling them with the Koolance universal blocks hoping for a little more. But worse case is it will look nice


Just with a 80mm fans, my temps drop from low 100's to low 80's, I imagine a waterblock will help a ton in keeping them much, much cooler.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Gigabyte are known of making one of the best boards out there, Asrock doesn't even come close to Asus and Gigabyte boards.
> 
> I don't know if digi vrm is so much better than analog vrm's, i clocked my chip to 5.2Ghz and for a little while it was stable but due to my very power hungry chip i cannot cool it with my current heat sink.
> 
> gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 is digital as well and hopefully they make an rev 4.0 for the UD5 as well and if they do, i buy it immediately.


GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev 3.0 has an Intersil controller, likely its analog on the UD3 Rev 4.0 as its a lower cost board and tier below it, otherwise photo evidence is needed to prove it has a digital controller...
I'll take photos of the UD5 controller when the board arrives.


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev 3.0 has an Intersil controller, likely its analog on the UD3 Rev 4.0 as its a lower cost board and tier below it, otherwise photo evidence is needed to prove it has a digital controller...
> I'll take photos of the UD5 controller when the board arrives.


Still, I'd much rather have a GB board over Asus.


----------



## luis vasquez

hello if you've seen my pictures vera that memories pc working normal and stable 2133 mhz without moving anything .... the problem is that 2400 mhz are not stable is not working well what I need is to put them in stable 2400MHz but I need exact steps I should do in the bios


----------



## Alxz

Haha don't hate me for what i'm going to say but i really like gigabyte boards over ASUS, even in Mexico, gigabyte customer service is pretty good! (ASUS RMA service is something i would not like to experiment); actually, i bought my UD7 (and had an UD5 before) just for this...



I know Crosshair boards have even better waterblocks but i can't really stand asus and their red themed boards...


----------



## vinton13

Hi all. Would I be able to use both SPDIF and analog audio outputs simultaneously? I'm thinking about going digital on this motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev 3.0 has an Intersil controller, likely its analog on the UD3 Rev 4.0 as its a lower cost board and tier below it, otherwise photo evidence is needed to prove it has a digital controller...
> I'll take photos of the UD5 controller when the board arrives.
> 
> 
> 
> Still, I'd much rather have a GB board over Asus.
Click to expand...

i wouldnt if asus made a quadfire board *(native ) i would be selling my ud7 so quick
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luis vasquez*
> 
> hello if you've seen my pictures vera that memories pc working normal and stable 2133 mhz without moving anything .... the problem is that 2400 mhz are not stable is not working well what I need is to put them in stable 2400MHz but I need exact steps I should do in the bios


not all CPUs can do 2400 ( the IMC is too weak )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vinton13*
> 
> Hi all. Would I be able to use both SPDIF and analog audio outputs simultaneously? I'm thinking about going digital on this motherboard.


no reason why not, but i dont know how to do that with windows


----------



## Chargeit

Damn, I got that replacement 780 in and look at what it's doing in heaven 4.0.



What do you think of that? Is it the card, PSU? This is now driving me crazy. What's the chance of getting a replacement card doing the same thing?


----------



## Blaise170

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i wouldnt if asus made a quadfire board *(native ) i would be selling my ud7 so quick
> not all CPUs can do 2400 ( the IMC is too weak )
> no reason why not, but i dont know how to do that with windows


Asus customer service is among the worst, I'd rather have a slightly weaker motherboard with a warranty that actually works.


----------



## Mega Man

meh ill take asus they update their bios and fix their bugs, if that isnt customer service, idk what is .... see the rma comment in my sig


----------



## Blaise170

I've RMA'ed many times and Asus is the only company I've had considerable trouble with. It took them over a month to tell me they were refusing repairs.


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4658#bios

only 2 bios updates, and how much is broke ? been over 1 year......

my CVFz works FLAWLESSLY my sabberkitty as well....

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4658#bios

17, updated as much as 3 months ago...

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_990FX_R20/HelpDesk_Download/

also 17, also updated 3 months ago


----------



## Blaise170

Yes of course, I'm not debating firmware updates, just strictly speaking of RMA. My Formula Z caught on fire due to a faulty VRM, and Asus refused to repair it since there was a scratched trace on the back side of it.


----------



## Mega Man

sounds reasonable to me


----------



## Blaise170

Mind you, a scratch that wasn't there when I shipped it to the Pegatron repair center.


----------



## Mega Man

did you document that?


----------



## Blaise170

No and that's exactly the problem. If you don't take pictures before the RMA, you are pretty much screwed if something happens to it. If you want more details the link is in my sig.


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like you know what to do? and didnt ?

CYA always, not to sound cold, but businesses have to cover their bums maximize profits


----------



## Blaise170

I know what to do now, but I didn't back then. Now whenever I RMA, I always take pictures before shipping.


----------



## hurricane28

I concur about the Asus RMA department, I had an notebook that was utter crap because it broke down 4 times on me and the ram department is a joke because it took them over 8 weeks to figure out that the HDD was broken *****.

the second time they had screwed though the top case of my notebook so i had to return it again, the third time i had an hard time on getting it back... etc. etc. i am talking about an notebook of 1300 euro back than in 2004.

I do have an Asus monitor and i like it very much because it fits my needs and works flawlessly. Its probably the only thing i ever buy from Asus tho, i love my UD5 and i would NEVER buy an sabertooth over my UD5 unlike the fact that they suck at firmware updates. I would never buy an GPu either of them.


----------



## Mega Man

the worst lessens in life are those you learn from your own mistakes, but those lessens also are the ones you remember for a lifetime


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I concur about the Asus RMA department, I had an notebook that was utter crap because it broke down 4 times on me and the ram department is a joke because it took them over 8 weeks to figure out that the HDD was broken *****.
> 
> the second time they had screwed though the top case of my notebook so i had to return it again, the third time i had an hard time on getting it back... etc. etc. i am talking about an notebook of 1300 euro back than in 2004.
> 
> I do have an Asus monitor and i like it very much because it fits my needs and works flawlessly. Its probably the only thing i ever buy from Asus tho, i love my UD5 and i would NEVER buy an sabertooth over my UD5 unlike the fact that they suck at firmware updates. I would never buy an GPu either of them.


From now on I avoid Asus like the plague. They don't attempt to keep the customer informed during a RMA, and are slow.

I'm also fairly sure the GPU they just sent me has the same problem the other one did... Sounds crazy, unless of course the issue is common enough that they have other cards with the same problem. All I know is every other part in my system checks out, I tried many different drives, and the card is doing the same damned thing.

I'm telling you, when the 880's come out, unless there is a major reason not to get one, I'm getting one... And in the case that there's a reason not to get them, I'll get a 780 ti or something... Not a Asus of course.

*I set up another RMA for that sucker. Damned, I can't wait until the newer cards come out and I can ditch this one... I want to wait until then though. No reason in buying this gen of cards with the new ones around the corner...

Lesson learned here, avoid cards that don't use the reference PCB... Asus redesigned theirs for the 780's and it looks like they f'ed something up.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Lesson learned here, avoid cards that don't use the reference PCB... Asus redesigned theirs for the 780's and it looks like they f'ed something up.


waterblocks for the win!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> meh ill take asus they update their bios and fix their bugs, if that isnt customer service, idk what is .... see the rma comment in my sig


i think i have the worst luck ever since i'm leaving my UD5 to RMA and also got a teeth removed today


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> waterblocks for the win!


Yea, that's a issue with that also. They don't have blocks that fit my card. Sucks. ^^ Next go I'll be avoiding Asus and custom PCB... Just waiting for them new cards.









I was going to sell this 780, but I don't want to sell it thinking there's a good chance something will end up messing up with it... Guess I'll use it as PhysX, or a coffee cup coaster... Sure as hell not putting it in another rig to have it all stank up.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, that's a issue with that also. They don't have blocks that fit my card. Sucks. ^^ Next go I'll be avoiding Asus and custom PCB... Just waiting for them new cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to sell this 780, but I don't want to sell it thinking there's a good chance something will end up messing up with it... Guess I'll use it as PhysX, or a coffee cup coaster... Sure as hell not putting it in another rig to have it all stank up.


gift it to me and i'll carry the burden of having it in my rig ! hahaha


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> gift it to me and i'll carry the burden of having it in my rig ! hahaha












Oh, I'll get one that works right... Even if I have to send that sob back 20 times. Later, I will enjoy looking at my 780 sitting on a desk, or hanging on the wall.









Also, I asked the Asus guy what it said about the repairs of my other one. The problem was marked down as, "not booting / hanging up"... That was not the issue my card had it ran windows fine, and I packaged it well... Better then the one they sent me.

What I think, is they don't know *** is wrong with it, and just put down some generic problem.


----------



## ebduncan

you can waterblock anything.

what you mean they don't make water blocks for your card? you mean they don't make full cover water blocks for your card. You can always go universal block for the graphics core.

Heck I've made my own water blocks for chipsets and vrms before using some copper tube and copper sheet.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> you can waterblock anything.
> 
> what you mean they don't make water blocks for your card? you mean they don't make full cover water blocks for your card. You can always go universal block for the graphics core.
> 
> Heck I've made my own water blocks for chipsets and vrms before using some copper tube and copper sheet.


Yea, full water blocks. I'm as worried about putting the VRM under water, as the core.

Seems slack not doing a full block. My core never goes past 70c (normal <60c, w/Vsync) with a custom fan curve. That's running a game wide open.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Haha don't hate me for what i'm going to say but i really like gigabyte boards over ASUS, even in Mexico, gigabyte customer service is pretty good! (ASUS RMA service is something i would not like to experiment); actually, i bought my UD7 (and had an UD5 before) just for this...
> 
> 
> 
> I know Crosshair boards have even better waterblocks but i can't really stand asus and their red themed boards...


Where did you buy one? I want to buy one too.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Where did you buy one? I want to buy one too.


i happened to won an ebay auction for the UD7 for 130USD

i bought my waterbock directly from ekwb shop, they are almost sold out! http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel-1.html


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> i happened to won an ebay auction for the UD7 for 130USD
> 
> i bought my waterbock directly from ekwb shop, they are almost sold out! http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/motherboard-blocks/full-board-blocks/amd-990fx-chipset/ek-fb-ga-990fxa-ud7-acetal-en-nickel-1.html


any chance that block would fit a UD3 rev 4?


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> any chance that block would fit a UD3 rev 4?


Nope, neither UD5


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Nope, neither UD5


oh, well. Would be nice tho....


----------



## Eagle1kenobi

I think I'm more concerned with the max safe temp for the NB, than what temp sensor is what. Under the load of folding, in my current setup until a new case is obtained, it his 72c...a temp that I would not allow the cpu to hit.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1kenobi*
> 
> I think I'm more concerned with the max safe temp for the NB, than what temp sensor is what. Under the load of folding, in my current setup until a new case is obtained, it his 72c...a temp that I would not allow the cpu to hit.


Honestly, I haven't noticed any temp issues with my VRM or my NB so far. Got a 6100 in my UD3 rev 4.0 running 4505 231x19.5 on air. Any thoughts on new case? I just ordered a Thermaltake Chaser MK-I off Amazon so I can have room to build a custom loop.


----------



## Eagle1kenobi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Honestly, I haven't noticed any temp issues with my VRM or my NB so far. Got a 6100 in my UD3 rev 4.0 running 4505 231x19.5 on air. Any thoughts on new case? I just ordered a Thermaltake Chaser MK-I off Amazon so I can have room to build a custom loop.


I was choosing between 2 large cases. I do not like mid tower or smaller. I have had mixed results with TT cases, so I chose to go a different brand this time once the finances are there for it. I chose to go with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129100
.... obviously, the whole issue with airflow becomes a non issue with this case.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1kenobi*
> 
> I was choosing between 2 large cases. I do not like mid tower or smaller. I have had mixed results with TT cases, so I chose to go a different brand this time once the finances are there for it. I chose to go with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129100
> .... obviously, the whole issue with airflow becomes a non issue with this case.


That's a nice one. I like the window design on the TT Chaser a bit better for showing off my custom loop whenever I get some extra cash to build it (prolly around thanksgiving/christmas).


----------



## Eagle1kenobi

I'm running an 8150 8 core, with a 660 gtx atm. Budget constraints prevent me from upgrading where I might. That said, even keeping an amd system, I would be hard pressed after months of research, not wanting to go I7 and 2x660 gtx. You get far more of a boost with 660s in sli than you do with a 760.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> gift it to me and i'll carry the burden of having it in my rig ! hahaha


Send it me as well, for a box full of thank you ssssss.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, I'll get one that works right... Even if I have to send that sob back 20 times. Later, I will enjoy looking at my 780 sitting on a desk, or hanging on the wall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I asked the Asus guy what it said about the repairs of my other one. The problem was marked down as, "not booting / hanging up"... That was not the issue my card had it ran windows fine, and I packaged it well... Better then the one they sent me.
> 
> What I think, is they don't know *** is wrong with it, and just put down some generic problem.


Hey, don't mean to sound rude but, upping my PCIe voltage helped on my stuttering. Kinda long shot but I think something is messing within your system.

I'd also wish you stop by this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1289489/gtx-600-series-unlocked-voltage-bios-downloads-and-tools/7680#post_22686870

Hit DJ a pm, and see if a custom bios will take care of the card.

I have done mine, and a 650ti boost can hang out with basic 660s.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Honestly, I haven't noticed any temp issues with my VRM or my NB so far. Got a 6100 in my UD3 rev 4.0 running 4505 231x19.5 on air. Any thoughts on new case? I just ordered a Thermaltake Chaser MK-I off Amazon so I can have room to build a custom loop.


Enthoos are cool! And cheap! Well, cheaper that is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1kenobi*
> 
> I was choosing between 2 large cases. I do not like mid tower or smaller. I have had mixed results with TT cases, so I chose to go a different brand this time once the finances are there for it. I chose to go with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129100
> .... obviously, the whole issue with airflow becomes a non issue with this case.


Look at those enthoo pros and etc. They are well built. I'd sure pick them over a lot of cases for their enthusiast level attention to details.

Also, I've linked a thread were you can get info on OCing your 660 further. Let's talk getting more from what weve paid!


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Send it me as well, for a box full of thank you ssssss.
> Hey, don't mean to sound rude but, upping my PCIe voltage helped on my stuttering. Kinda long shot but I think something is messing within your system.
> 
> I'd also wish you stop by this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1289489/gtx-600-series-unlocked-voltage-bios-downloads-and-tools/7680#post_22686870
> 
> Hit DJ a pm, and see if a custom bios will take care of the card.
> 
> I have done mine, and a 650ti boost can hang out with basic 660s.
> Enthoos are cool! And cheap! Well, cheaper that is.
> Look at those enthoo pros and etc. They are well built. I'd sure pick them over a lot of cases for their enthusiast level attention to details.
> 
> Also, I've linked a thread were you can get info on OCing your 660 further. Let's talk getting more from what weve paid!


I did look at the Enthoos before picking the Chaser. I picked it for the extra 5.25 bay and the looks


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1kenobi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Honestly, I haven't noticed any temp issues with my VRM or my NB so far. Got a 6100 in my UD3 rev 4.0 running 4505 231x19.5 on air. Any thoughts on new case? I just ordered a Thermaltake Chaser MK-I off Amazon so I can have room to build a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> I was choosing between 2 large cases. I do not like mid tower or smaller. I have had mixed results with TT cases, so I chose to go a different brand this time once the finances are there for it. I chose to go with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129100
> .... obviously, the whole issue with airflow becomes a non issue with this case.
Click to expand...

C a s e l a b s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1kenobi*
> 
> I'm running an 8150 8 core, with a 660 gtx atm. Budget constraints prevent me from upgrading where I might. That said, even keeping an amd system, I would be hard pressed after months of research, not wanting to go I7 and 2x660 gtx. You get far more of a boost with 660s in sli than you do with a 760.


Meh i have a 3930k and I still prefer my 83xxs can't wait till winter so I can have time to finish rebuilding it


----------



## aaronsta1

well after a couple weeks i decided to have a go at overclocking my FX-8350 and see what i can get out of it.
it has been a rocky start..

i figured id start small and set the multiplier to 22 and boot up and see what happens..
about 2 seconds blue screen..









i go into the bios and i noticed that when i turned off turbo the bios set the voltage to 1.2v
i brought it up to 1.4 and reboot.. (i noticed the stock voltage on auto was 1.375)

a few seconds, blue screen.. i was like ugh..

i go into bios and try 1.45..

a few seconds, blue screen









at this point it seems like my FX-8350 cant even hit 4400 with 1.45v.









i give up..

put everything back to auto and reboot.

then i noticed in the CPU-Z that at auto the cpu is running at 200x20 with turbo turned on..
it never goes above 20 and thats even at 100% load.

everywhere i read this cpu is supposed to be 4.2ghz turbo.

my board only is letting it run at 4.0

i go into the bios..

set the multiplier to 21, set voltage to manual and gave it 1.375 which is stock volts i believe?

reboot, and bam blue screen..

so im like what, this cpu cant even run at its rated speed.









i was reading up on this forum about my board.. the 990FXA-UD3 Rev4 and the vrms.

i open the side of the case and i put my finger on the heatsink and its so hot it burns my finger









i dug through my box of stuff and i found a fan, its from an old amd heatsink.. think its 70mm not sure tho.
i strapped it on the vrm heatsink with a couple wire ties and boot up the computer..

so far its been running strong at 200x22 with 1.4v
no more blue screens and the vrm heatsink is cold to the touch.

im guessing this whole time the cpu has been throttled down.. because its a lot faster..

im going to let it run at 4400 for a few hours and give 4600 a try.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> well after a couple weeks i decided to have a go at overclocking my FX-8350 and see what i can get out of it.
> it has been a rocky start..
> 
> i figured id start small and set the multiplier to 22 and boot up and see what happens..
> about 2 seconds blue screen..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i go into the bios and i noticed that when i turned off turbo the bios set the voltage to 1.2v
> i brought it up to 1.4 and reboot.. (i noticed the stock voltage on auto was 1.375)
> 
> a few seconds, blue screen.. i was like ugh..
> 
> i go into bios and try 1.45..
> 
> a few seconds, blue screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at this point it seems like my FX-8350 cant even hit 4400 with 1.45v.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i give up..
> 
> put everything back to auto and reboot.
> 
> then i noticed in the CPU-Z that at auto the cpu is running at 200x20 with turbo turned on..
> it never goes above 20 and thats even at 100% load.
> 
> everywhere i read this cpu is supposed to be 4.2ghz turbo.
> 
> my board only is letting it run at 4.0
> 
> i go into the bios..
> 
> set the multiplier to 21, set voltage to manual and gave it 1.375 which is stock volts i believe?
> 
> reboot, and bam blue screen..
> 
> so im like what, this cpu cant even run at its rated speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i was reading up on this forum about my board.. the 990FXA-UD3 Rev4 and the vrms.
> 
> i open the side of the case and i put my finger on the heatsink and its so hot it burns my finger
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i dug through my box of stuff and i found a fan, its from an old amd heatsink.. think its 70mm not sure tho.
> i strapped it on the vrm heatsink with a couple wire ties and boot up the computer..
> 
> so far its been running strong at 200x22 with 1.4v
> no more blue screens and the vrm heatsink is cold to the touch.
> 
> im guessing this whole time the cpu has been throttled down.. because its a lot faster..
> 
> im going to let it run at 4400 for a few hours and give 4600 a try.


You can actually get the Blue Screen information next time it happens. (rather when it does happen)

There are codes that are displayed in the event of a bluescreen. Also, Windows can have it in the event logs. http://windows.microsoft.com/en-ph/windows/what-information-event-logs-event-viewer#1TC=windows-7

The code can then be searched for their corresponding issue equivalent.

Though it seemed that you have fixed that by adding a fan unto the VRMs. My hunch is that you have encountered thermal protection. You can check your VRMs and Heatsink contact. I used screws instead of push pins and it improved the contact. Adding a backplate to your VRM heatsink will also do you good.









Good luck.


----------



## aaronsta1

so im trying to keep the dynamic voltage turned on, normal + offset in the bios.
but it seems to just randomly change.

i set it to what should be 1.425v and in windows i get 1.38
if i set to offset 1.38 then i get 1.5+ hah..

is there any downside to just setting the voltage manually?


----------



## Mega Man

no voltage downclocking if cnq is disabled


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no voltage downclocking if cnq is disabled


no i want to leave that on..

ok so here is what i gathered from testing..

with turbo on, the board gives the cpu more power. raises tdp or something. but with it on i cant get the cpu to run faster then 4100
with turbo on, the cpu likes to run at 20.5 pretty much no matter what multiplier i give the cpu or turbo clock..

if i set the voltage to normal with turbo on its 1.375 and with turbo off its 1.3

if i set the voltage to normal and offset to say .05 which should be 1.425, in the cpu-z the cpu is at 1.28 or something..

now there is an option for load line calibration.. im guessing that boost the core volt..
it is rather confusing tho..
we have auto, which is +100% dunno how much that is in voltage..
then we have standard, normal, medium, and extreme..

ok so.. um, in what order is the voltage increased?

is normal none? is standard what auto picks? i kinda guess extreme is a lot?

what i kind of wanted to do is..
keep the cpu at 4.0 and raise the turbo to 4.5.
but its not working because the turbo never goes above 4.1









any ideas?


----------



## aaronsta1

ok so i think i got it.
i turned off turbo.. no matter what it seems if turbo is on, the multiplier is 20.5

i put the multiplier at 22
set the voltage to normal which is 1.300
set the offset to .125
set the llc to medium

this gives me a windows voltage of 1.38 to 1.404 in cpu-z

it passed 2 prime95 tests with a temp of 48c CPU and 51c Socket

i think ill leave it here and test some more for stability.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hey, don't mean to sound rude but, upping my PCIe voltage helped on my stuttering. Kinda long shot but I think something is messing within your system.


Tomorrow I'm going to pull the 780 out of the system, stick it in this AMD system to see what it does.

*You're right. I put the 780 in my AMD rig and it seems to run fine. So, I guess it's even PSU, or something wrong with the mobo.

I'm going to put my systems back together and order a new PSU.

I've been eyeballing this SOB...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102

**I hate the look of the full modular cords.

If that fixes it, I'll RMA my current one. If it doesn't then I'll pull the mobo.

***I took the opportunity to take pictures of my 780 and 270x. I really love the look/sleekness of the 270x, just wish it had a back plate.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Tomorrow I'm going to pull the 780 out of the system, stick it in this AMD system to see what it does.
> 
> *You're right. I put the 780 in my AMD rig and it seems to run fine. So, I guess it's even PSU, or something wrong with the mobo.
> 
> I'm going to put my systems back together and order a new PSU.
> 
> I've been eyeballing this SOB...
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102
> 
> **I hate the look of the full modular cords.
> 
> If that fixes it, I'll RMA my current one. If it doesn't then I'll pull the mobo.
> 
> ***I took the opportunity to take pictures of my 780 and 270x. I really love the look/sleekness of the 270x, just wish it had a back plate.


both those cards look nice.......better than my MSI HD7770 ghz anyway also...nice tats like the red/black yin-yang:thumb:


----------



## Chargeit

Thanks, they are nice looking cards and it's always enjoyable to get a chance to mess with them. We get these nice parts, and then they vanish into our systems.

Thanks, yea I kept my ink to black and red. The eyes of the one you can see the base of are red.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Tomorrow I'm going to pull the 780 out of the system, stick it in this AMD system to see what it does.
> 
> *You're right. I put the 780 in my AMD rig and it seems to run fine. So, I guess it's even PSU, or something wrong with the mobo.
> 
> I'm going to put my systems back together and order a new PSU.
> 
> I've been eyeballing this SOB...
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151102
> 
> **I hate the look of the full modular cords.
> 
> If that fixes it, I'll RMA my current one. If it doesn't then I'll pull the mobo.
> 
> ***I took the opportunity to take pictures of my 780 and 270x. I really love the look/sleekness of the 270x, just wish it had a back plate.


seasonic x850 is a goddammned good PSU. I'll go for it definetly if money isn't a issue hahaha.
I just got a tx850 v2 because of the price, isn't modular but i don't really need modularity for my 540; is also seasonic OEM haha


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> seasonic x850 is a goddammned good PSU. I'll go for it definetly if money isn't a issue hahaha.
> I just got a tx850 v2 because of the price, isn't modular but i don't really need modularity for my 540; is also seasonic OEM haha


Hell man, money's always a concern.









I figured I might as well drop some on it this time around. I did consider the Platinum, but I'm not sure it was worth the $30 extra bucks. I could of gone with a smaller PSU also, but I like leaving my options open. 850W is the perfect mix of not being too large, but also allowing for 2 higher ranged GPU if needed.

My current PSU is the TX850M. I got it at such a great price I couldn't pass it up.

I'm going to RMA the TX850M. I think the problem has to do with the fact it's on its side in the case I have. I think that messed its airflow up.

I almost bought a new case last night, though I'm going to wait and see how this PSU does on its side. The side view of my case is so nice that's hard to get rid of it.

I don't know, I saw this case on sale for a good deal. It fits my H100i, and is a nice beefy sized case. It also isnt' as wide as my current one, so more desk space.

Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced ($140 / $120 after MIR)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160

I am kind of worried that any PSU I put in my current case will have issues sooner or later because of being on its side.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hell man, money's always a concern.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figured I might as well drop some on it this time around. I did consider the Platinum, but I'm not sure it was worth the $30 extra bucks. I could of gone with a smaller PSU also, but I like leaving my options open. 850W is the perfect mix of not being too large, but also allowing for 2 higher ranged GPU if needed.
> 
> My current PSU is the TX850M. I got it at such a great price I couldn't pass it up.
> 
> I'm going to RMA the TX850M. I think the problem has to do with the fact it's on its side in the case I have. I think that messed its airflow up.
> 
> I almost bought a new case last night, though I'm going to wait and see how this PSU does on its side. The side view of my case is so nice that's hard to get rid of it.
> 
> I don't know, I saw this case on sale for a good deal. It fits my H100i, and is a nice beefy sized case. It also isnt' as wide as my current one, so more desk space.
> 
> Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced ($140 / $120 after MIR)
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119160
> 
> I am kind of worried that any PSU I put in my current case will have issues sooner or later because of being on its side.


don't you have an air 540? i wouldn't replace it for a HAF series to be honest D:


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, the issue with my air 540 is that the PSU is on its side. I think that's what caused whatever issues my current PSU has.

It's a nice looking case from the side, but the thing's 13" wide, kind of ugly from other angles, and I think it helped kill my PSU.

But yea, I was looking at the HAF again. I'd need to drop another $60 to get proper filters for it, and easily spend as much on fans if I wanted to replace the stock ones. Too much to put into that case.

I'm mainly worried that I put this new PSU in my Air 540, and 8 months down the line I'm dealing with the same issues.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> don't you have an air 540? i wouldn't replace it for a HAF series to be honest D:


Same here.

One helluva case that 540!

Also, look at seasonic Rebrand V850 by cooler master. Way cheaper than anything on its class. Eyeing the 1000 myself. Hoping sooner


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Same here.
> 
> One helluva case that 540!
> 
> Also, look at seasonic Rebrand V850 by cooler master. Way cheaper than anything on its class. Eyeing the 1000 myself. Hoping sooner


Yea, the Air 540 is great looking from the side, but it has issues. I don't like the way the PSU sits on its side, from the day I put my PSU in the case it started making odd sounds. I had to set my case fans to 80% to help mask the noise the PSU fan makes on its side.

I already ordered that SeaSonic X-850.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, the issue with my air 540 is that the PSU is on its side. I think that's what caused whatever issues my current PSU has.
> 
> It's a nice looking case from the side, but the thing's 13" wide, kind of ugly from other angles, and I think it helped kill my PSU.
> 
> But yea, I was looking at the HAF again. I'd need to drop another $60 to get proper filters for it, and easily spend as much on fans if I wanted to replace the stock ones. Too much to put into that case.
> 
> I'm mainly worried that I put this new PSU in my Air 540, and 8 months down the line I'm dealing with the same issues.


as far as i know, the TX850m is made by CWT and the TX850 v2 is made from seasonic. I'd choose seasonic over cwt any day, jonnyguru scored the nonmodular better thant the modular one.

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&file=print&reid=254
http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story5&reid=230

the t850m power regulation and vg stability from cwt isn't as good as seasonic and well, the seasonic x850 its made by seasonic haha. Probably is not about the temperature from the PSU side, it could be just brute stability that made your 780 throttle (the 750m review got results for a borderline bronze certification so its quite troublesome)

And yeah, the coolermaster v series are also top tier units!


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, probably the issue.

Oh well, I'll have a superior PSU for it now.

Man, this case here would be prefect if only it had a 3rd 5" bay. Maybe get rid of the blue highlights and make it full black with a side mounted fan.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133244

I like the simple design.

I'll just hold onto my current case for the moment. I just would like to avoid future issues, since I'm sick of messing with this computer. The only tweaking I want to do any time soon is putting in one of the next generation of GPU. Fun stuff. I'd also like to have it as a functional rig when that Dead Rising 3 game comes out.


----------



## Alxz

woah, it has nice radiator capabilities!! definitely better than the 932 hahah


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> woah, it has nice radiator capabilities!! definitely better than the 932 hahah


And it's on sale for a good price.

$100 with a $30 MIR.

It's tempting, but there are a few things that turn me off. I do like that it's fully filtered. My Air 540 is basically a dust nightmare. Granted, it isn't as bad as I thought, but you don't realize how much dust is blocked by the HDD drive area until you remove that and have 3 120mm fans blowing directly over your GPU/mobo/wires.

I don't have a water cooling system, so that isn't a major concern. As much as I'd like one, I think I flip parts way too much to get things that require me to invest extra money on parts I do put in my system.







Hell, I don't even OC my CPU anymore. I'd like full block water cooling for the GPU mainly.


----------



## Blaise170

I'd look at the EVGA G2 or P2 for your next PSU. It is Superflower Leadex which is as good as Seasonic, plus it doesn't have the coil whine a lot of Seasonics do. Not to mention the TEN year warranty.


----------



## aaroc

I want a recommendation for a case. I will use a Gygabyte UD7 990FX, 4 GPUs R9 290X what other towers appart from Corsiar 540 can handle this configuration and is not super big? thanks!


----------



## Eagle1kenobi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> both those cards look nice.......better than my MSI HD7770 ghz anyway also...nice tats like the red/black yin-yang:thumb:


Actually, most of the time, I prefer to stick with MSI when it comes to geforce cards. Their cooling system just seems to outperform a lot of the other ones out there.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I want a recommendation for a case. I will use a Gygabyte UD7 990FX, 4 GPUs R9 290X what other towers appart from Corsiar 540 can handle this configuration and is not super big? thanks!


CORSAIR 540 oops

600T, 750D, some haf series (which i dont like).


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I want a recommendation for a case. I will use a Gygabyte UD7 990FX, 4 GPUs R9 290X what other towers appart from Corsiar 540 can handle this configuration and is not super big? thanks!


No,

Go straight to 800d and 900d, some phanteks, TJ11 and TJ07.

There's a big reason why they're big. Most towers should have no issues with 8 expansion slots for quad GPU, but cooling support will be limited. You are looking at water cooling with at least 3 360mm rads. So you shouldnt be wondering about their girth


----------



## aaroc

I need the case mainly for transportation. I will ship the assembled pc with this case and then on destiny use the final case a dimastech easy xl. No custom loop wc inside the case.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I want a recommendation for a case. I will use a Gygabyte UD7 990FX, 4 GPUs R9 290X what other towers appart from Corsiar 540 can handle this configuration and is not super big? thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> I need the case mainly for transportation. I will ship the assembled pc with this case and then on destiny use the final case a dimastech easy xl. No custom loop wc inside the case.


Def case labs SM8 or s8

al is light ! my th10 weighs at least 80-100lbs if it were steel it would be more in the 130-150 range


----------



## aaronsta1

well i tried for 4.8 but i dont think this board has enough power to sustain it.

at 4.8 it boots up but in prime95 after a couple minutes i get a hard lock.. no blue screen or anything.

i noticed while running prime95 with cpu-z running the vcore jumps around a lot.. it goes as low as 1.28.. which is usually when the pc locks up..

currently running at 4.6 @ 1.4125

its stable in prime95 (ran it for about 2 hours) but it throttles down to 3.4 a lot..









im guessing its the vrms..

i dont think ill have any problems in games tho.. as they dont usually tax the system 100%

im guessing ill need a better board to get this 125w cpu to 4.8+
i think the cpu will do it tho, as it boots windows at 5.0 @ 1.45 it just locks up after a short time.

i have a different psu, i was going to throw in there and check it out.

currently running a thermaltake smart 850 but i have a seasonic x-850
they have the same power output, just one is better.


----------



## Alxz

thats probably your limit with that processor chip


----------



## Mega Man

with that board maybe but i doubt it is the chip, possibly even cooling, do you have a fan on the vrms?

the later model ( rev 3 and above ) have issues with blowing vrms, they are designed to throttle as for protection ( hardcoded in the bios )


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> with that board maybe but i doubt it is the chip, possibly even cooling, do you have a fan on the vrms?
> 
> the later model ( rev 3 and above ) have issues with blowing vrms, they are designed to throttle as for protection ( hardcoded in the bios )


yeah its rev 4.0



i was playing sniper elite 3 and got a blue screen, so i bumped up the volts to 1.425
played for about 3 hours no issues..

might need to look into a better board.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> with that board maybe but i doubt it is the chip, possibly even cooling, do you have a fan on the vrms?
> 
> the later model ( rev 3 and above ) have issues with blowing vrms, they are designed to throttle as for protection ( hardcoded in the bios )


^









What Voltage are you playing at? I'd say that board will likely to handle up to 1.45. Higher than that is an issue.

Also play around the LLC Setting that can give you the least voltage swing. And stick there. Voltage swing is normal on these boards but get the lowest minimum to maximum delta.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What Voltage are you playing at? I'd say that board will likely to handle up to 1.45. Higher than that is an issue.
> 
> Also play around the LLC Setting that can give you the least voltage swing. And stick there. Voltage swing is normal on these boards but get the lowest minimum to maximum delta.


i think you meant that for me?

right now im at 1.425 the setting is normal (1.3) + .125 offset
running at 200x23 @ 4.6ghz

the LLC is on medium.
i have not tried extreme yet.

the board is throttling tho.. in prime95 the cpu goes down to 200x17 @ 3.4ghz for seconds at a time..
not sure how to fix that.

in games tho it seems ok.
i was running at at 1.4125 but it blue screened so i put it up to 1.425 and no issues so far.

i want to keep CNQ on as well as the dynamic voltage..
i know its not the best for OC but on idle i like the cooler temps.

speaking about temps, in prim95 the temp tops out to about 49c


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> i think you meant that for me?
> 
> right now im at 1.425 the setting is normal (1.3) + .125 offset
> running at 200x23 @ 4.6ghz
> 
> the LLC is on medium.
> i have not tried extreme yet.
> 
> the board is throttling tho.. in prime95 the cpu goes down to 200x17 @ 3.4ghz for seconds at a time..
> not sure how to fix that.
> 
> in games tho it seems ok.
> i was running at at 1.4125 but it blue screened so i put it up to 1.425 and no issues so far.
> 
> i want to keep CNQ on as well as the dynamic voltage..
> i know its not the best for OC but on idle i like the cooler temps.
> 
> speaking about temps, in prim95 the temp tops out to about 49c


Word of advice, turn off CNQ while checking for the highest OC you can get.

Turn it off later once stability has been found.

CNQ Off will give you more temps at stability testing but will also guarantee you that your OC is within bounds in terms of temps.


----------



## Chargeit

Nice, I got my 750 TI (PhysX) card in today... Now just waiting until I get that replacement PSU in.









I'm going to have to give this 750 ti a go as my main GPU also. I'm really interested in seeing what performance I can get out of it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What Voltage are you playing at? I'd say that board will likely to handle up to 1.45. Higher than that is an issue.
> 
> Also play around the LLC Setting that can give you the least voltage swing. And stick there. Voltage swing is normal on these boards but get the lowest minimum to maximum delta.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think you meant that for me?
> 
> right now im at 1.425 the setting is normal (1.3) + .125 offset
> running at 200x23 @ 4.6ghz
> 
> the LLC is on medium.
> i have not tried extreme yet.
> 
> the board is throttling tho.. in prime95 the cpu goes down to 200x17 @ 3.4ghz for seconds at a time..
> not sure how to fix that.
> 
> in games tho it seems ok.
> i was running at at 1.4125 but it blue screened so i put it up to 1.425 and no issues so far.
> 
> i want to keep CNQ on as well as the dynamic voltage..
> i know its not the best for OC but on idle i like the cooler temps.
> 
> speaking about temps, in prim95 the temp tops out to about 49c
Click to expand...

Again at certain wattage in the bios it is hard coded (you can not change it) to throttle


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Again at certain wattage in the bios it is hard coded (you can not change it) to throttle


yeah this board is only good for about 4400
it doesnt throttle with 4400 and the volts are rock stable..

4500 seems stable and prim95 runs for hours but its mostly at 3400 due to throttling.. so its not really worth it.


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blaise170*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev 3.0 has an Intersil controller, likely its analog on the UD3 Rev 4.0 as its a lower cost board and tier below it, otherwise photo evidence is needed to prove it has a digital controller...
> I'll take photos of the UD5 controller when the board arrives.
> 
> 
> 
> Still, I'd much rather have a GB board over Asus.
Click to expand...

Implying ASUS is the only manufacturer that puts digital controllers on their boards...Gigabyte, AsRock and anyone else can too if they want to.

Anywho as promised, the board arrived in pristine condition, apart from the distressed external packaging on arrival.
Impressive board at first glance out of the box, really liked the matte black PCB and heatsinks look beefy. Black , blue, and gray scheme really gives off that minimalist look, nothing appears riced out of the box.










Uses the Same controller as the UD7, ISL6330 Split phase controller. So likely a 4+1 doubled phase as guessed
http://www.intersil.com/content/dam/Intersil/documents/isl6/isl6330g.pdf


Gonna try to boot test my 8 core FX tonight just to look around the BIOS. CPU has been unused and boxed for over a year on display...




Hopefully this board will breath some new life into it once I start pushing the clocks...

Not sure if I want to keep the Sempron that came with the board...


----------



## Roaches

Yep board isn't a dud.









Powers up flawlessly in my awfully ghetto setup, and it does have UEFI. One problem is the VRM heatsinks get quite warm to touch on startup. Not sure if thats normal.









I need to get an Lian Li PC-T60 open bench table lol...Until then the fun begins. I'll be sure to do a comparison test against my 3570K setup, clock for clock of course.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Yep board isn't a dud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Powers up flawlessly in my awfully ghetto setup, and it does have UEFI. One problem is the VRM heatsinks get quite warm to touch on startup. Not sure if thats normal.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get an Lian Li PC-T60 open bench table lol...Until then the fun begins. I'll be sure to do a comparison test against my 3570K setup, clock for clock of course.


Nice man!









Anyway, how warm was the VRM heatsink? Burning Hot, Boiling Hot, Unpleasantly Warm, Bearable Warm (very subjective huh?







)

The board has one of the coolest VRMs as I've heard.

Clock for clock, Single threaded, the i5 will slaughter the FX. MultiThreaded (I mean beyond i5 thread capability), the FX will eat i5s for lunch!

I miss Giga's UEFI Bios!!! The Kitty's Bios is too







for me!


----------



## Roaches

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nice man!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, how warm was the VRM heatsink? Burning Hot, Boiling Hot, Unpleasantly Warm, Bearable Warm (very subjective huh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> The board has one of the coolest VRMs as I've heard.
> 
> Clock for clock, Single threaded, the i5 will slaughter the FX. MultiThreaded (I mean beyond i5 thread capability), the FX will eat i5s for lunch!
> 
> I miss Giga's UEFI Bios!!! The Kitty's Bios is too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> for me!


It was noticeably warm, warmer than the human body for sure. Though If I was to make a guess, I'd say around 40+ degrees Celsius. Though it could be from NorthBridge since there's a heatpipe that connects to main VRM heatsink.

Well that's it for tonight, gotta hit bed for work. Until next time I'll do a full single GPU and CFX setup and test.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roaches*
> 
> Yep board isn't a dud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Powers up flawlessly in my awfully ghetto setup, and it does have UEFI. One problem is the VRM heatsinks get quite warm to touch on startup. Not sure if thats normal.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to get an Lian Li PC-T60 open bench table lol...Until then the fun begins. I'll be sure to do a comparison test against my 3570K setup, clock for clock of course.


Nice setup you got there mate









As far as i can see you have almost the same parts like me,CPU, MB, RAM.

My vrm or NB never get hot even under heavy load or stress testing i touched them in the process and did not get burned, its a little bit warm but thats it. A while back i replaced the TIM on the NB for MX-4 and tighten the screws a bit more and it seems that it helped a bit.

Good luck with overclocking


----------



## Kittencake

anyone has any of these bad boys for sale let me know lol ...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> anyone has any of these bad boys for sale let me know lol ...


I thought you already have bought another board









Sorry, i am not going to sell my board its too awesome


----------



## Kittencake




----------



## hurricane28

I don't see any text


----------



## Kittencake

supposed to get a gigbyte 970 board just had to pay shipping but he hasn't responded and its been over a week >.<

is what i posted i go to edit it .still nothing .. -_-


----------



## hurricane28

Oh, sorry to hear that. I could never let a cute girl like you down









It can be risky if you buy stuff from people sometimes, where did you buy it from? from here or somewhere else?

i only sell or buy stuff locally and ask for their address before shipping or paying anything, so if it goes bad i can pay them a visit hehe


----------



## Kittencake

well i bought my m5a97 board locally .. now that i had a random restart i dunno how much longer that its gonna last


----------



## hurricane28

It seems the MB gods are not in your favor









But did you buy that board from an actual retailer or second hand? Are you absolute sure its the board that is faulty?


----------



## Kittencake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> It seems the MB gods are not in your favor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But did you buy that board from an actual retailer or second hand? Are you absolute sure its the board that is faulty?


quite sure ..i changed the psu , and i bought it from a retailer ,


----------



## hurricane28

Hmm, can you tell what is going on than? what is happening.


----------



## Kittencake

usb has been killing devices , I just had my first random reboot , getting constant error's in .net framework programs, flash constantly crashes


----------



## hurricane28

That sounds like an corrupted Windows installation to me. Could be an unstable overclock as well. I had the same problems when my overclock was not stable and after a while windows gets corrupted.
You can also do the following if you haven't done that already: http://www.techsupportalert.com/content/how-repair-corrupt-or-damaged-windows-system-files-system-file-checker.htm

What do you mean by USB killing devises? Ive knocked off a pin on my onboard USB 3.0 header while i was inserting the connector. Later on i saw that the connector holes that the pins should insert was not open so i bend a pin and when i tried to bend it strait again it broke off


----------



## Kittencake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> That sounds like an corrupted Windows installation to me. Could be an unstable overclock as well. I had the same problems when my overclock was not stable and after a while windows gets corrupted.
> You can also do the following if you haven't done that already: http://www.techsupportalert.com/content/how-repair-corrupt-or-damaged-windows-system-files-system-file-checker.htm
> 
> What do you mean by USB killing devises? Ive knocked off a pin on my onboard USB 3.0 header while i was inserting the connector. Later on i saw that the connector holes that the pins should insert was not open so i bend a pin and when i tried to bend it strait again it broke off


nothings oc'd .. even the ram thats supposed to be at 1.65 v is at 1.5v and as for my usb devices I had 1 webcam 2 mice and a usb external hdd die from being plugged into my board

as for the damaged system , I had win 7 was getting crashes and errors , ubuntu firefox crashed constantly , and win 8 serveral bsod's and one random reboot


----------



## hurricane28

Alright, why did you set the ram at 1.5v while its actually rated for 1.65? When i undervolt my ram i get similar problems.

Also, what USB port do you use? I mean, is it only one port or are there more ports that gone wrong? I had the same issue with my hot swap bay of my Corsair obsidian 650D my HDD died because the connector has gone bad. So maybe it can be your connector too?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> nothings oc'd .. even the ram thats supposed to be at 1.65 v is at 1.5v and as for my usb devices I had 1 webcam 2 mice and a usb external hdd die from being plugged into my board
> 
> as for the damaged system , I had win 7 was getting crashes and errors , ubuntu firefox crashed constantly , and win 8 serveral bsod's and one random reboot


Don't tell me the RAM is also a tad lower on your system than what the spec say.

Anyway, that is unfortunate. Does RMA exist in your locale?

I'd give the store a try tbh. They carry store in warranty, that's for sure.


----------



## Kittencake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Alright, why did you set the ram at 1.5v while its actually rated for 1.65? When i undervolt my ram i get similar problems.
> 
> Also, what USB port do you use? I mean, is it only one port or are there more ports that gone wrong? I had the same issue with my hot swap bay of my Corsair obsidian 650D my HDD died because the connector has gone bad. So maybe it can be your connector too?


the thing is the system automatically undervolted it


----------



## Maticb

I have a perhaps noob question, it puzzles me, I do not know what is happening, so I don't know how to fix it:
When I put my 8320 on 5GHz @1.5V it stays there, temperatures max out at 66C, but when I run say 3DMark it throttles like 2-3 cores at a time to 3500MHz, I was watching it with live update on my other screen and it never throttled all cores.

is it:
VRMs? Overheating or stability?
CPU temperature overheating on spcific cores?
something else?

I have an EK Supreme on it and basically I didn't see the temperatures get to high for it's margin.

I have a 140mm blowing to the VRMs, and actualy at that time I also had this portable AC unit blowing directly into my open case so VRMs shouldn't overheat, unless if I should cool the other side of the motherboard too?

Ohe yes, I forgot, as I said before my MOBO is unfortunatelly the UD3 rev 3.0.

This was more of an experiment to put it throught some benchs, in no way will I run it at 5GHz 24/7


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> the thing is the system automatically undervolted it


Set the voltage higher until you see 1.65v in windows. In bios my board needs to set to 1.720v to see 1.65 in windows. When i have them any lower than 1.5v advertised voltage i get same issues like you unlike the USB.

The USB can be a bad connector or the board is indeed defective and in that case you should RMA it if possible.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> I have a perhaps noob question, it puzzles me, I do not know what is happening, so I don't know how to fix it:
> When I put my 8320 on 5GHz @1.5V it stays there, temperatures max out at 66C, but when I run say 3DMark it throttles like 2-3 cores at a time to 3500MHz, I was watching it with live update on my other screen and it never throttled all cores.
> 
> is it:
> VRMs? Overheating or stability?
> CPU temperature overheating on spcific cores?
> something else?
> 
> I have an EK Supreme on it and basically I didn't see the temperatures get to high for it's margin.
> 
> I have a 140mm blowing to the VRMs, and actualy at that time I also had this portable AC unit blowing directly into my open case so VRMs shouldn't overheat, unless if I should cool the other side of the motherboard too?
> 
> Ohe yes, I forgot, as I said before my MOBO is unfortunatelly the UD3 rev 3.0.
> 
> This was more of an experiment to put it throught some benchs, in no way will I run it at 5GHz 24/7


CNQ?

Might need moar Vcore


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Alright, why did you set the ram at 1.5v while its actually rated for 1.65? When i undervolt my ram i get similar problems.
> 
> Also, what USB port do you use? I mean, is it only one port or are there more ports that gone wrong? I had the same issue with my hot swap bay of my Corsair obsidian 650D my HDD died because the connector has gone bad. So maybe it can be your connector too?
> 
> 
> 
> the thing is the system automatically undervolted it
Click to expand...

you may have to manually set the voltage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> I have a perhaps noob question, it puzzles me, I do not know what is happening, so I don't know how to fix it:
> When I put my 8320 on 5GHz @1.5V it stays there, temperatures max out at 66C, but when I run say 3DMark it throttles like 2-3 cores at a time to 3500MHz, I was watching it with live update on my other screen and it never throttled all cores.
> 
> is it:
> VRMs? Overheating or stability?
> CPU temperature overheating on spcific cores?
> something else?
> 
> I have an EK Supreme on it and basically I didn't see the temperatures get to high for it's margin.
> 
> I have a 140mm blowing to the VRMs, and actualy at that time I also had this portable AC unit blowing directly into my open case so VRMs shouldn't overheat, unless if I should cool the other side of the motherboard too?
> 
> Ohe yes, I forgot, as I said before my MOBO is unfortunatelly the UD3 rev 3.0.
> 
> This was more of an experiment to put it throught some benchs, in no way will I run it at 5GHz 24/7


see this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What Voltage are you playing at? I'd say that board will likely to handle up to 1.45. Higher than that is an issue.
> 
> Also play around the LLC Setting that can give you the least voltage swing. And stick there. Voltage swing is normal on these boards but get the lowest minimum to maximum delta.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i think you meant that for me?
> 
> right now im at 1.425 the setting is normal (1.3) + .125 offset
> running at 200x23 @ 4.6ghz
> 
> the LLC is on medium.
> i have not tried extreme yet.
> 
> the board is throttling tho.. in prime95 the cpu goes down to 200x17 @ 3.4ghz for seconds at a time..
> not sure how to fix that.
> 
> in games tho it seems ok.
> i was running at at 1.4125 but it blue screened so i put it up to 1.425 and no issues so far.
> 
> i want to keep CNQ on as well as the dynamic voltage..
> i know its not the best for OC but on idle i like the cooler temps.
> 
> speaking about temps, in prim95 the temp tops out to about 49c
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again at certain wattage in the bios it is hard coded (you can not change it) to throttle
Click to expand...


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you may have to manually set the voltage
> see this


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maticb*
> 
> I have a perhaps noob question, it puzzles me, I do not know what is happening, so I don't know how to fix it:
> When I put my 8320 on 5GHz @1.5V it stays there, temperatures max out at 66C, but when I run say 3DMark it throttles like 2-3 cores at a time to 3500MHz, I was watching it with live update on my other screen and it never throttled all cores.
> 
> is it:
> VRMs? Overheating or stability?
> CPU temperature overheating on spcific cores?
> something else?
> 
> I have an EK Supreme on it and basically I didn't see the temperatures get to high for it's margin.
> 
> I have a 140mm blowing to the VRMs, and actualy at that time I also had this portable AC unit blowing directly into my open case so VRMs shouldn't overheat, unless if I should cool the other side of the motherboard too?
> 
> Ohe yes, I forgot, as I said before my MOBO is unfortunately the UD3 rev 3.0.
> 
> This was more of an experiment to put it through some benches, in no way will I run it at 5GHz 24/7


i am having the same problems..
it seems these boards are only good for about 4400 without throttling.
i dont think its a heat issue, i think the board is capped at a certain wattage and at 4400 its being hit.

so far im running 4400 @ 1.375 with extreme LLC.
that puts me at 1.4 to 1.425v in windows..

be careful with extreme LLC, it seems to REALLY boost the volts..


----------



## Maticb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> i am having the same problems..
> it seems these boards are only good for about 4400 without throttling.
> i dont think its a heat issue, i think the board is capped at a certain wattage and at 4400 its being hit.
> 
> so far im running 4400 @ 1.375 with extreme LLC.
> that puts me at 1.4 to 1.425v in windows..
> 
> be careful with extreme LLC, it seems to REALLY boost the volts..


Honestly I don't know what extreme LLC is, I simply go into BIOS and put +0.0xx volts lol.

I am running 24/7 @4.5GHz with CPU-Z showing 1.38-1.39Volts, that is +0.050 in BIOS.

The maximum for it to still boot is 0.150, if I put it to +0.175 it wont boot anymore, no matter the frequency.


----------



## mus1mus

Weird!

Try adding offset to CPU-NB.

Remembered mine wants a balances CPU and CPUNB voltages.


----------



## Maticb

i could try that next time I try to do some benchmarks. I never overclocked RAM or NB, I only dare to change the multiplier and CPU voltage so far. This FX-8320 is actualy my first unlocked chip.


----------



## Regnitto

Alright, my case came in yesterday. I went with the Thermaltake Chaser MK-I. My thoughts on the case: It's big, it looks awesome, comes with 2x200mm and 1x140mm fans with room for 2 more 200mm (I have added 1 so far), great cable management.

I upgraded from a mid tower so that I can have room for a 240mm rad (upgrade likely coming this christmas)

top panel I/O





compared to my old mid tower.


Cable management is much nicer in this case.




Ready to game. added a cooler master 200mm intake on the side panel. 110cfm @ 700rpm.


----------



## slick2500

Gigabyte has had my motherboard for over a week now and I have not received any info as to what the status is or what is even going on? So much for them being fast and communicating with people...........


----------



## jdc122

Can anyone tell me why my rev 4 ud3 won't boot with an 8350 but will with a sempron 145 on the latest BIOS? Rev 4supposed to support vishera out of the box...


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdc122*
> 
> Can anyone tell me why my rev 4 ud3 won't boot with an 8350 but will with a sempron 145 on the latest BIOS? Rev 4supposed to support vishera out of the box...


If you have 4 sticks of ram, try just with 2 sticks. If it works make sure to erase all cmos data and also unplug all ram sticks at least once.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Alright, my case came in yesterday. I went with the Thermaltake Chaser MK-I. My thoughts on the case: It's big, it looks awesome, comes with 2x200mm and 1x140mm fans with room for 2 more 200mm (I have added 1 so far), great cable management.
> 
> I upgraded from a mid tower so that I can have room for a 240mm rad (upgrade likely coming this christmas)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> top panel I/O
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> compared to my old mid tower.
> 
> 
> Cable management is much nicer in this case.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ready to game. added a cooler master 200mm intake on the side panel. 110cfm @ 700rpm


It would feel big at the moment.









Picked a Lian Li PC70 and it still feels small for my taste now. ( back then, I disregard the need for good looking case. They don't make your PC run faster. Now,







)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdc122*
> 
> Can anyone tell me why my rev 4 ud3 won't boot with an 8350 but will with a sempron 145 on the latest BIOS? Rev 4supposed to support vishera out of the box...


Is the 8350 working good on another mobo?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdc122*
> 
> Can anyone tell me why my rev 4 ud3 won't boot with an 8350 but will with a sempron 145 on the latest BIOS? Rev 4supposed to support vishera out of the box...


A little more info is needed ? Like do you get anything at all ? Can you enter BIOS ? Do you get POST screen or beeps ? Have you cleared CMOS ? etc etc.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It would feel big at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picked a Lian Li PC70 and it still feels small for my taste now. ( back then, I disregard the need for good looking case. They don't make your PC run faster. Now,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I know it don't make it run faster, but I gotta look at it every day and I like my rig to look good.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> I know it don't make it run faster, but I gotta look at it every day and I like my rig to look good.


I hear you bro.

That's exactly taunts me right now. Why didn't I thought of that before?.

Demn me!


----------



## Rick Arter

Finally getting around to OCing my 8320 on my UD5. Haven't looked up anything on this combo, nor am I familiar with some of the settings in BIOS. Is there another post or link to threads that have detailed voltage/speed settings? Had this rig for sometime just got a 8320 few months ago from MC. Only limiting factor I see is my slow 1333 RAM and limited knowledge.

Thanks in advance to anyone who helps!


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rick Arter*
> 
> Finally getting around to OCing my 8320 on my UD5. Haven't looked up anything on this combo, nor am I familiar with some of the settings in BIOS. Is there another post or link to threads that have detailed voltage/speed settings? Had this rig for sometime just got a 8320 few months ago from MC. Only limiting factor I see is my slow 1333 RAM and limited knowledge.
> 
> Thanks in advance to anyone who helps!


try this guide: Bulldozer Overclocking Guide

it's an 8120 in a ud7, but I found it helpful for me. The guide is very detailed.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Gigabyte has had my motherboard for over a week now and I have not received any info as to what the status is or what is even going on? So much for them being fast and communicating with people...........


hahaha see the RMA comment in my sig


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rick Arter*
> 
> Finally getting around to OCing my 8320 on my UD5. Haven't looked up anything on this combo, nor am I familiar with some of the settings in BIOS. Is there another post or link to threads that have detailed voltage/speed settings? Had this rig for sometime just got a 8320 few months ago from MC. Only limiting factor I see is my slow 1333 RAM and limited knowledge.
> 
> Thanks in advance to anyone who helps!


It is easy, turn everything that saves power off, increase the multi, reboot, if good increase multi again.

If bad increase vcore. Do this until you reach something nice. Then run some things for stability testing. You might need to restart a lot of times in between.

Also the ram should have minimal impact on OC as they are unlocked.


----------



## jdc122

Is your ram actually rated 1333? Amd clocks with fsb too. Set your ram as low as possible when doing multi, then when doing fsb set multi as low as possible.multi gives you a 200mhz gap of what's stable, so with fsb you Kay be able to push a little bit. Say multi won't hit 48, but fsb hits 250, you can lower multi and use fsb to compensate and possible hit 4750 instead of multi only allowing you 46


----------



## Axel_74

I have a question my 990fxa ud3 does a weird double boot it powers up and shuts down powers up and shuts down again on the third power up it finally boots into win7 is there a way to stop it from doing this without turning Core Boost on?


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axel_74*
> 
> I have a question my 990fxa ud3 does a weird double boot it powers up and shuts down powers up and shuts down again on the third power up it finally boots into win7 is there a way to stop it from doing this without turning Core Boost on?


if you turn off turbo it does the power on and off once.

but if it turns off and on a few times it means it cant post.. possible things to look into, lower clock, more vcore or less ram speed.


----------



## Axel_74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> if you turn off turbo it does the power on and off once.
> 
> but if it turns off and on a few times it means it cant post.. possible things to look into, lower clock, more vcore or less ram speed.


I've tried quite a few different configurations old BIOS new bios OC stock umm just multiplier still it does it. I'm a gigabyte guy this is the first time a gigabyte mobo that I've ran personally has left me stumped and frustrated. It sounds bad starting and stopping like that plus my boot time is pretty slow . Besides the slow boot and the crazy start stop boot thing it does it is an excellent board FX6300 @ 4.3GHz stable gigabyte R9 270x all run great but the boot really bothers me.


----------



## taowulf

The fix for the double boot thing is in here somewhere, I think I was maybe set the turbo to to be the same as your OC, but it has been so long since I did it, I am not sure.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> The fix for the double boot thing is in here somewhere, I think I was maybe set the turbo to to be the same as your OC, but it has been so long since I did it, I am not sure.


in order to OC you have to turn off turbo. if you dont the chip decides how fast it can go based on TDP. which is around 20.5 (4100)

turning the turbo off causes the board to do the cold boot thing.. but it should only power off one time..
if it is doing it more then once its because it is hanging up..

im betting his board is turning off then on then off and back on and its reset to factory settings from then on.. that would be the OC protection thing.


----------



## Axel_74

I would have agreed with you that the oc protection deal was taking it back down to stock settings but win7 system is telling me im at 4.3GHz also AMD ccc reads 4.3 when I restart into the bios it's still the way I have it set. For the oc . Please explain what you mean when you say hanging up...I've never heard that term before. Vcore 1.45v I didn't mess with the FSB just the voltage and multiplier. Disabled the obvious stuff. Prime95 for 2h without a problem . I'm stumped.


----------



## musicman1953

Hi,
I have built many systems over the years and always use Gigabyte boards and only about a year ago"upgraded"to 990FXA boards.
I upgraded not long ago to my first 990FXA board with a UEFI bios and an AMD FX-4300 CPU(upgraded from a Phenom).
The board is a GA-990FXA-UD5.
I always overclock and never really run at stock.
I have turbo and all energy saving settings disabled.
The FX-4300 stock speed is 3.8GHz and I have only bumped it up to 4.1GHz by upping the multiplier and nothing else.
It runs stable at all times.
When I turn the PC on first thing each day, it too does the power up, stop, power up thing as well.
Fans spin up, stop, spin up.
If I set everything back to stock and turbo is on then it powers up in the normal way.
Thought I would let you know that this start, stop, start is normal when turbo is off.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> in order to OC you have to turn off turbo. if you dont the chip decides how fast it can go based on TDP. which is around 20.5 (4100)
> 
> turning the turbo off causes the board to do the cold boot thing.. but it should only power off one time..
> if it is doing it more then once its because it is hanging up..
> 
> im betting his board is turning off then on then off and back on and its reset to factory settings from then on.. that would be the OC protection thing.


Double Boot is normal on Giga Boards on these chips.

If you haven't seen the previous posts about it, please refrain from making conclusive guesses. That is with all due respect.









If double boot annoys you, look for the solution hundreds of pages back..

Also, Turbo can be manually set much like it is ON but is not making any boosts.

Boost Multi baby! In Advanced CPU Settings.

Lastly, Turbo won't kick in if you OC. Prove me wrong by posting a Turbo Frequency on an Overclocked FX. Even with Single Thread apps on a Custom Loop, my chip will not kick in to Turbo Boost! But that's just might be me..


----------



## taowulf

http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/7450#post_20985413

This is what I was talking about.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/7450#post_20985413
> 
> This is what I was talking about.


Bump ^^^









+REP


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Double Boot is normal on Giga Boards on these chips.
> 
> If you haven't seen the previous posts about it, please refrain from making conclusive guesses. That is with all due respect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If double boot annoys you, look for the solution hundreds of pages back..
> 
> Also, Turbo can be manually set much like it is ON but is not making any boosts.
> 
> Boost Multi baby! In Advanced CPU Settings.
> 
> Lastly, Turbo won't kick in if you OC. Prove me wrong by posting a Turbo Frequency on an Overclocked FX. Even with Single Thread apps on a Custom Loop, my chip will not kick in to Turbo Boost! But that's just might be me..


you quoted the wrong guy it was Axel_74 that is having the dual power off issue.


----------



## Mega Man

sigh. turn off apm and CNQ set turbo freq to w.e. freq your main is ....

it really is not that hard, apm = what makes turbo happen ( meaning keeping in the TDP )

on my ud7 apm is also what causes bsod, as there is no socket temp sensor ....


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Alright, my case came in yesterday. I went with the Thermaltake Chaser MK-I. My thoughts on the case: It's big, it looks awesome, comes with 2x200mm and 1x140mm fans with room for 2 more 200mm (I have added 1 so far), great cable management.
> 
> I upgraded from a mid tower so that I can have room for a 240mm rad (upgrade likely coming this christmas)
> 
> Ready to game. added a cooler master 200mm intake on the side panel. 110cfm @ 700rpm.


Hey, nice looking case.

I agree that a case doesn't make it run faster, but a well designed case helps keep components cool, looks good, and allows for more options later on.



Yea, that old case had to go.

I got all my stuff in and working right again... With the new PSU I don't have the throttling issues with my card, though the full modular wires look funky.

I added my PhysX 750 ti also. That does help in PhysX games. In some I went from dropping to the 40's in some spots to keeping 60 most of the time. I did have to set it to use only the 750 ti under 3d games options for the best results.



I'd prefer to run the wires through the top right opening, but the way the case works that means I have to remove the drive bay, which made it a pain to do this switch out... So, I'll not use them this time to make my life easier if I have to pull the PSU again, at the expense of cosmetics. Not that you can really see it without the flash of a camera anyway.


----------



## taowulf

Thanks mus1mus
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Bump ^^^
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +REP


Thanks!


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> you quoted the wrong guy it was Axel_74 that is having the dual power off issue.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> in order to OC you have to turn off turbo. if you dont the chip decides how fast it can go based on TDP. which is around 20.5 (4100)
> 
> turning the turbo off causes the board to do the cold boot thing.. but it should only power off one time..
> if it is doing it more then once its because it is hanging up..
> 
> im betting his board is turning off then on then off and back on and its reset to factory settings from then on.. that would be the OC protection thing.


Yes, you are not the one having the issue, but your assertion that you HAVE to disable turbo is incorrect. IIRC, I originally had Turbo disabled and this board will still do the multiple boot up before it finally boots for good. So to stop that from happening, the fix is NOT to disable Turbo, but to enable it and have it match the OC. A solution that works on UD3 boards like mine as well as UD5 and, as far as I can remember, UD7 boards as well.

That is why mus1mus corrected you.


----------



## Particle

My GA-990FXA-UD3 failed last night while installing a new GPU. I have a revision 1.0 board from back before they changed the heatsinks. Unfortunately, one of the plastic clips had become brittle over time and it snapped when lightly bumped. I'll have to get some thermal epoxy or something I guess.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> My GA-990FXA-UD3 failed last night while installing a new GPU. I have a revision 1.0 board from back before they changed the heatsinks. Unfortunately, one of the plastic clips had become brittle over time and it snapped when lightly bumped. I'll have to get some thermal epoxy or something I guess.


Get rid of both and just use small nuts, bolts and nylon washes.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Double Boot is normal on Giga Boards on these chips.
> 
> If you haven't seen the previous posts about it, please refrain from making conclusive guesses. That is with all due respect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If double boot annoys you, look for the solution hundreds of pages back..
> 
> Also, Turbo can be manually set much like it is ON but is not making any boosts.
> 
> Boost Multi baby! In Advanced CPU Settings.
> 
> Lastly, Turbo won't kick in if you OC. Prove me wrong by posting a Turbo Frequency on an Overclocked FX. Even with Single Thread apps on a Custom Loop, my chip will not kick in to Turbo Boost! But that's just might be me..


you quoted the wrong guy..
it was
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Yes, you are not the one having the issue, but your assertion that you HAVE to disable turbo is incorrect. IIRC, I originally had Turbo disabled and this board will still do the multiple boot up before it finally boots for good. So to stop that from happening, the fix is NOT to disable Turbo, but to enable it and have it match the OC. A solution that works on UD3 boards like mine as well as UD5 and, as far as I can remember, UD7 boards as well.
> 
> That is why mus1mus corrected you.


then i guess my board is bad, because when i have turbo on and set to 23 and the multiplier is 23 when you boot in windows the highest the chip will go is 20.5

as soon as you turn tubo off, then you get 23 in windows..

so in order to OC my board, i HAD to turn tubro off..


----------



## Chargeit

Man, seeing a lot of failed boards lately... Lesson learned, don't push your OC to the limits. Cut it down a notch or two.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Hey, nice looking case.
> 
> I agree that a case doesn't make it run faster, but a well designed case helps keep components cool, looks good, and allows for more options later on.
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, that old case had to go.
> 
> I got all my stuff in and working right again... With the new PSU I don't have the throttling issues with my card, though the full modular wires look funky.
> 
> I added my PhysX 750 ti also. That does help in PhysX games. In some I went from dropping to the 40's in some spots to keeping 60 most of the time. I did have to set it to use only the 750 ti under 3d games options for the best results.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd prefer to run the wires through the top right opening, but the way the case works that means I have to remove the drive bay, which made it a pain to do this switch out... So, I'll not use them this time to make my life easier if I have to pull the PSU again, at the expense of cosmetics. Not that you can really see it without the flash of a camera anyway.


Thanks. I thought it looked pretty cool. It also has all the features I was looking for in a case. good cable management solution, 4 5.25 bays, 240 rad mount, and enough space to fit a massive gpu or 2.

also, glad u got ur stuff squared away. this is gonna sound noobish.....but i wonder if u can do a physx card like that with an AMD card as the primary graphics adapter.....lol i doubt it but thought i'd throw it out there


----------



## Particle

Don't mind the deep discoloration of all the components around the VRM. This board was coated in polyurethane for extra protection during dry ice sessions back in 2011/2012. The discoloration is a normal reaction of PU to heat or UV exposure. The heatsinks and plastic were not coated, however. The discoloration in the retainer pin was the plastic itself breaking down over time in response to heat without any sort of modification or coating. The pin at the top where it doesn't get so warm also doesn't appear to have broken down so much over time. The heatsink was bumped at the top next to the pin that is intact--the bottom one exploded.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, I'm stoked to have my system back.

It looks good man. I don't think it was a bad buy if it does what you need, and allows for future upgrades.

It was possible, until Nvidia messed it up.

However, they may still be ways.

I wouldn't suggest it. The reason I got that 750 ti was to use as PhysX was I wanted a backup gaming card. Also, I'm kind of stuck performance wise until the 880's come out.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, I'm stoked to have my system back.
> 
> It looks good man. I don't think it was a bad buy if it does what you need, and allows for future upgrades.
> 
> It was possible, until Nvidia messed it up.
> 
> However, they may still be ways.
> 
> I wouldn't suggest it. The reason I got that 750 ti was to use as PhysX was I wanted a backup gaming card. Also, I'm kind of stuck performance wise until the 880's come out.


for 139.99usd can't complain at all









As far as the physx card, I thought i'd be greedy and get Mantle and PhysX together, lol


----------



## Chargeit

That's a good price range to get a nice quality case. Though, the easiest case I've built with is the one I used for my ol'ladys system. It was also the cheapest. The only issue I had was with the pop out PCIE covers. I don't remember what it was, but it caused me some headache. Everything else was a breeze working with the case.

It sucks that you can't use a AMD/Nvidia card for PhysX. Nvidia says it's because they can't insure the quality of the experience, but the truth is they want you to buy only Nvidia.

Having a dedicated PhysX card helps, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you wanted to have a back up gaming GPU like me.

One thing that a friend and I that moved from AMD to Nvidia both agree on is that the colors of the AMD cards are much better. Nvidia colors just look washed out compared to AMD, and I have never found a way to fix it. It's one of those things you might not notice if you just used Nvidia GPU, but having both it's very clear that things just look better on AMD gpu because of the color.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Man, seeing a lot of failed boards lately... Lesson learned, don't push your OC to the limits. Cut it down a notch or two.


or dont buy budget boards and expect to push to the limits ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> That's a good price range to get a nice quality case. Though, the easiest case I've built with is the one I used for my ol'ladys system. It was also the cheapest. The only issue I had was with the pop out PCIE covers. I don't remember what it was, but it caused me some headache. Everything else was a breeze working with the case.
> 
> It sucks that you can't use a AMD/Nvidia card for PhysX. Nvidia says it's because they can't insure the quality of the experience, but the truth is they want you to buy only Nvidia.
> 
> Having a dedicated PhysX card helps, but I wouldn't recommend it unless you wanted to have a back up gaming GPU like me.
> 
> One thing that a friend and I that moved from AMD to Nvidia both agree on is that the colors of the AMD cards are much better. Nvidia colors just look washed out compared to AMD, and I have never found a way to fix it. It's one of those things you might not notice if you just used Nvidia GPU, but having both it's very clear that things just look better on AMD gpu because of the color.


you can use a nvidia for physx
even with amd .... been there done that.

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/how-to-use-a-nvidia-card-as-physx-w-ati.119217/

i would if i could get a block that didnt interfere with my others, still looking into it may get a 760 or 770 ( or a 660 670 ) will depend on water blocks


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> or dont buy budget boards and expect to push to the limits ?
> you can use a nvidia for physx
> even with amd .... been there done that.
> 
> http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/how-to-use-a-nvidia-card-as-physx-w-ati.119217/
> 
> i would if i could get a block that didnt interfere with my others, still looking into it may get a 760 or 770 ( or a 660 670 ) will depend on water blocks


Yea, max OC and budget board = bad idea.

You're right, there are work arounds to use Nvidia cards with AMD as Physx. I mean without a work around, it doesn't work. Considering you'll have to use outside methods to get it working, I'm not sure how much you can rely on it working well.

The 750 ti I picked up for $100 here on OCN works great as Physx card. If I remember correctly you do 3 monitor gaming so would likely need more. It would be interesting to see the impact of a 750 ti vs 760/770 in your set up.


----------



## Regnitto

Made a video of case lighting............sorry the quality ain't that great, cheap camera.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Made a video of case lighting............sorry the quality ain't that great, cheap camera.


Great job  liked the camera movement and trip around the case with the Apocalyptica music. in that lighting it looks kind of like a V8 in there (the engine not the cooler)








+1


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Great job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> liked the camera movement and trip around the case with the Apocalyptica music. in that lighting it looks kind of like a V8 in there (the engine not the cooler)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +1


nah, just a V6, if i upgraded the 6100 to an 8xxx it'd be a v8, lol


----------



## Regnitto

so.....what is the max safe temp for the VRM on the ud3 rev 4? I'm noticing near 90c on a stress test.........


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> so.....what is the max safe temp for the VRM on the ud3 rev 4? I'm noticing near 90c on a stress test.........


Whoa.. ! stop there mate.

They could go up to 100s (from other people) but wouldn't call it safe. Max I should go honestly is 80. And that is being not too comfortable.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Whoa.. ! stop there mate.
> 
> They could go up to 100s (from other people) but wouldn't call it safe. Max I should go honestly is 80. And that is being not too comfortable.


that's about what I was thinking. which is why i'm turning down my clock and digging thru my desk for an extra 3 pin to molex adapter, lol


----------



## Regnitto

ok, so i did this:



but didn't see much difference (took 20 min to hit 88c vs 15 min). Could the distance between the VRM and the fan be a factor? I don't have any smaller fans at the moment and that's as close as I can get that one with my current CPU cooler........


----------



## Duality92

This is what I have on mine, 140mm XSPC Xinruilian fan. Keeps my VRM at 88-89 with a 5+ Ghz OC. As opposed to the 115C I see without it.


----------



## aaronsta1

this what i have on mine, an old 70mm (i think) cpu fan from an amd heatsink


----------



## Regnitto

you both have water blocks and can get ur fans closer to the VRM......I guess that must really be the variable i'm missing here........i need money for my loop!!!!!!!!!! lol


----------



## mus1mus

stock cooler fan can fit between the lowest point of your cooler and the rear IO..

Ive done it. You need it close to the heatsink..

Also try a fan at the backside of the VRM area..


----------



## Mega Man

except the first person fan is not any where near his vrm sink, when you get it close you should see ~ 60 max, even when i was @ 5.5 on my sabertooth ( only board i ever owned with a VRM sensor ) i never saw near 60 only ~ 55


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> stock cooler fan can fit between the lowest point of your cooler and the rear IO..
> 
> Ive done it. You need it close to the heatsink..
> 
> *Also try a fan at the backside of the VRM area*..


did that in my old case. cut a hole in the side panel and mounted an 80 on it. my vrms ran around 75 @ 4515 on my 6100. don't want to cut this case and don't have a slim enough fan to fit in there.....well actually i do have 1, but it is also the only one that I have that may fit right on top of the heat sink.....i just forgot i had it until now. it's in another computer at the moment


----------



## Regnitto

So this morning I decided to redo my VRM fan. I pulled a slim 60mm fan out of my HTPC and zip tied it to the back fan shroud and cpu cooler:



max VRM temp 80c @ 4465. 8c drop.


----------



## slick2500

So after having my motherboard out for RMA for the past 3 weeks, I get it back and I have the exact same issue with the motherboard I had before sending it in, I am beyond pissed off at this. The northbridge heatsink so hot I can't even touch it. My usb devices keep connecting and disconnecting themselves.


----------



## Mega Man

so fix it, either buy some thermal pad, and a fan or DIY something else.

the ud3s have self throttling in the bios (* rev3+) for a reason


----------



## Argorn5757

this is a silly question, but does anyone know which 3 temperatures these are and what they should be running around? thanks!







(this is in hwmonitor)


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Argorn5757*
> 
> this is a silly question, but does anyone know which 3 temperatures these are and what they should be running around? thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (this is in hwmonitor)


Just Use HWINFO64..


----------



## slick2500

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so fix it, either buy some thermal pad, and a fan or DIY something else.
> 
> the ud3s have self throttling in the bios (* rev3+) for a reason


I shouldn't have to fix a defective board. It has a 3 year warranty for a reason. I sent Gigabyte tech support an email requesting a shipping label to send this board back and that I wanted a new board overnighted to me.


----------



## Argorn5757

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just Use HWINFO64..


thanks mate


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just Use HWINFO64..


That's what I use!


----------



## slick2500

So after doing some reading through reviews on this board, I have noticed that I am not the only one who received a board back from Gigabyte RMA that was still nonfunctional, and I am not the only person who has issues with this board throttling the cpu at stock bios settings. That being said, if Gigabyte keeps giving me the runaround on things and won't make this right expect a video of this board really burning up.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> so fix it, either buy some thermal pad, and a fan or DIY something else.
> 
> the ud3s have self throttling in the bios (* rev3+) for a reason
> 
> 
> 
> I shouldn't have to fix a defective board. It has a 3 year warranty for a reason. I sent Gigabyte tech support an email requesting a shipping label to send this board back and that I wanted a new board overnighted to me.
Click to expand...

GL !


----------



## slick2500

Their "fix" was to put plastic washers between the pcb and the screws holding down the NB and Vrm heatsink......


----------



## Rick Arter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> It is easy, turn everything that saves power off, increase the multi, reboot, if good increase multi again.
> 
> If bad increase vcore. Do this until you reach something nice. Then run some things for stability testing. You might need to restart a lot of times in between.
> 
> Also the ram should have minimal impact on OC as they are unlocked.


Thx for response I have disabled all power saving features, and vcore/RAM settings are manual to stock specs. My problem is getting things not to declock/overclock when set to stock.

The guide you sent me is great its actually what I have been using so far. I haven't OC anything yet but understand what to do on that part. I am gonna try and pick up better RAM, and flash BIOS to F12 as suggested in the Vishera members thread.

Really baffles me at how it clocks everything up before or after declocking it. Runs 4.2ghz/~220-230 bus/2600-3000 fsb and then vcore drops and its running ~2.6-3.1ghz/~180 bus/~2000fsb.









I increased vcore in BIOS to 1.4+ and under load fluctuates from 1.296 down to 1.216 iirc. Lower the vcore lower the clocks and vice versa. Another person in Viscera thread mentioned my 1333mhz RAM, since I am not OCing it not sure how much that matters.

I will take a bit more time and mess with few more things to see what happens. I wonder if I lower clocks manually and run OCCT if it will underclock as much


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rick Arter*
> 
> Thx for response I have disabled all power saving features, and vcore/RAM settings are manual to stock specs. My problem is getting things not to declock/overclock when set to stock.
> 
> The guide you sent me is great its actually what I have been using so far. I haven't OC anything yet but understand what to do on that part. I am gonna try and pick up better RAM, and flash BIOS to F12 as suggested in the Vishera members thread.
> 
> Really baffles me at how it clocks everything up before or after declocking it. Runs 4.2ghz/~220-230 bus/2600-3000 fsb and then vcore drops and its running ~2.6-3.1ghz/~180 bus/~2000fsb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I increased vcore in BIOS to 1.4+ and under load fluctuates from 1.296 down to 1.216 iirc. Lower the vcore lower the clocks and vice versa. Another person in Viscera thread mentioned my 1333mhz RAM, since I am not OCing it not sure how much that matters.
> 
> I will take a bit more time and mess with few more things to see what happens. I wonder if I lower clocks manually and run OCCT if it will underclock as much


bois screenshot? what's your LLC set on?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rick Arter*
> 
> Thx for response I have disabled all power saving features, and vcore/RAM settings are manual to stock specs. My problem is getting things not to declock/overclock when set to stock.
> 
> The guide you sent me is great its actually what I have been using so far. I haven't OC anything yet but understand what to do on that part. I am gonna try and pick up better RAM, and flash BIOS to F12 as suggested in the Vishera members thread.
> 
> Really baffles me at how it clocks everything up before or after declocking it. Runs 4.2ghz/~220-230 bus/2600-3000 fsb and then vcore drops and its running ~2.6-3.1ghz/~180 bus/~2000fsb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I increased vcore in BIOS to 1.4+ and under load fluctuates from 1.296 down to 1.216 iirc. Lower the vcore lower the clocks and vice versa. Another person in Viscera thread mentioned my 1333mhz RAM, since I am not OCing it not sure how much that matters.
> 
> I will take a bit more time and mess with few more things to see what happens. I wonder if I lower clocks manually and run OCCT if it will underclock as much


Turn off Turbo, APM, Reboot.

Turn off Cool and Quiet, etc in Power Feature except High Performance if that exist.

Set Vcore to stock if you want to run it at stock. Nice if you know your VID. If not +0.00 will do. Set Ram voltage and the like.

Also, if you can post screenshots of your bios, more guys can help you.


----------



## Rick Arter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> bois screenshot? what's your LLC set on?


Seems I am the only one without a LLC setting avalable in BIOS.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rick Arter*
> 
> Seems I am the only one without a LLC setting avalable in BIOS.


what board you using?


----------



## Kittencake

Kitty got her board ... gonna install it soon once the munchkin goes to bed


----------



## Regnitto

Nice Kitty! what board did you get?


----------



## Alxz

my 540 finally arrived









now i'll try to push this 8320 as high as i can with my ud7 WHICH FINALLY MANAGED TO WORK


----------



## Regnitto

very nice


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> my 540 finally arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i'll try to push this 8320 as high as i can with my ud7 WHICH FINALLY MANAGED TO WORK


Nice one dude!

By the way, since your GPUs are also on water, intake that top rad! Works better than exhaust!


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nice one dude!
> 
> By the way, since your GPUs are also on water, intake that top rad! Works better than exhaust!


really?







what do you recommend, intake as push or intake as pull??


----------



## Kittencake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Nice Kitty! what board did you get?


the ud3 Rev 4.0 I'm not sure if thats a good thing or not for rev 4 i'm hopging so it was in a test unit so the board has maybe an hour use in it in a computer store and it only cost me 80 CAD


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what do you recommend, intake as push or intake as pull??


Men, push-pull for the win baby!

Intake actually gets air outside the case that is always cooler than case temp.

Push vs pull will net you little difference. Push-pull will let you run fans slower. Thus more silent. just a limit of the space.

IIRC, Linus (ncix) said intake+pull is better since its easier to clean. (Fans below the rad) so yeah!

Edit: why is there only one stick of RAM? I quoted you with GPU when also, there's one. But good build mate!


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Men, push-pull for the win baby!
> 
> Intake actually gets air outside the case that is always cooler than case temp.
> 
> Push vs pull will net you little difference. Push-pull will let you run fans slower. Thus more silent. just a limit of the space.
> 
> IIRC, Linus (ncix) said intake+pull is better since its easier to clean. (Fans below the rad) so yeah!
> 
> Edit: why is there only one stick of RAM? I quoted you with GPU when also, there's one. But good build mate!


thanks! i'll do it tomorrow haha its kind of late in here :>.

the only rad i'm doing push pull is the 360 one, my top 240 can't be at p/p because of the mobo ;-; its a very tight fit with p/p.
that photo was before i finished but it has 2x8gb in there







, second 670 will be added soon.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> the ud3 Rev 4.0 I'm not sure if thats a good thing or not for rev 4 i'm hopging so it was in a test unit so the board has maybe an hour use in it in a computer store and it only cost me 80 CAD


That's the same board I got, keep an eye on your VRM temps.

I had a problem with mine last night. I had reset to stock because I wanted to see what clock i could get while keeping my VRM around 70-75c while running OCCT. While testing @ 3900 (stock CPB for my 6100) running rock stable (or so i thought) cpu @ 48c vrm @ 53c, I noticed my VRM temp sensors and all vrm sensor data in hwinfo64 go to "0". I stopped OCCT, rebooted hwinfo64, and the vrm sensor data was no longer being displayed at all. So I restart, the fans come on and.............nothing.............no post, no beep, nothing. jumper cmos, all is well. have been running stock since. sorry I did not take a bios screen of the settings when this happened. Any ideas? I know i forgot to enable HPC while disabling C&Q, APM, and all the rest of the power saving stuff core clock and cpb clock were both set 19.5, llc medium don't remember vcore setting...could it have just been the HPC setting? or is this a sign of failing VRM? Or my cheap coolmax psu?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> my 540 finally arrived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now i'll try to push this 8320 as high as i can with my ud7 WHICH FINALLY MANAGED TO WORK


You know, for some reason I was thinking a extended board wouldn't fit inside of the air 540.







Good to know I was wrong.

Oh, check this out. I didn't realize I had a picture of my AMD/AMD rig. =D Who needs wire full management? Haven't seen the GPU go past 56, and the CPU sub 40c. Though nothing is OC'ed.











I guess I did tie some down, but that Rosewill R5 is terrible to mange wires with. The rear panel is half impossible to get on correctly with wires back there. I'm likely to put that TX850M in there when I get it back from RMA. Maybe I make it clean looking this time around... Maybe not.


----------



## slick2500

Called up Gigabyte on Monday at ~4:15 PST and talked to a tech support guy, told him what it is doing and what I have tried to get to get it to work, after about 10 min he told me that he would talk to the RMA department and have them send me an RMA number and that it should only take like 15-20 min then they will e-mail it to me. Well it is now 8:20 PST on Wednesday and I am yet to receive and RMA number. I got tired of waiting and just went ahead and ordered an Asus Sabertooth board, it should be here either Friday or Saturday.

I don't remember who said Gigabytes RMA service and tech support was good and fast, but in the past month that I have been dealing with this issue I am yet to see anything good or fast about it. This is by far the worst experience I have ever had with tech support from any company ever. This will also be the last time I buy a Gigabyte product.


----------



## Mega Man

please see the quote about RMA in the sig


----------



## mus1mus

A co-worker of mine used to work at a call center taking care of support for WD products. He said, there are times where they have these people inquiring for RMAs that talk to them about consumer rights and all, yell at them, talk smack at them that in the end, the agents will just give up and give the client what they want just to stop further punishments they have nothing to do with.

Not that I agree with the kind of aggression and arrogance to get something you need from those unknowing people giving front-end client support, but it works 6/10 times according to my co worker.

Personally, wouldn't bother.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> A co-worker of mine used to work at a call center taking care of support for WD products. He said, there are times where they have these people inquiring for RMAs that talk to them about consumer rights and all, yell at them, talk smack at them that in the end, the agents will just give up and give the client what they want just to stop further punishments they have nothing to do with.
> 
> Not that I agree with the kind of aggression and arrogance to get something you need from those unknowing people giving front-end client support, but it works 6/10 times according to my co worker.
> 
> Personally, wouldn't bother.


I hear you on that one, i had several problems with my Corsair products and was pretty steamed about it. So i called them about my issues i have with their products, the first guy apologized for this and said he would send me an RMA ticket, i said thank you very much and i hang up.

It took 2 weeks i heard nothing, no RMA ticket nor an Email about this. I called again and Emailed them still no answer. I placed an topic on the Corsair forum and suddenly there were 2 coworkers that could help me out.

I explained my defects that were, my front i/o and my hot swap bay on the top of my case did not work anymore and in the mean time it went bad it took my WD 1TB black with it...
They said that they will take this seriously and wanted me to send the defective parts over to them so that they can examine about the cause.

I contacted my retail store and i had still warranty and i got a new one from them because WD has an excellent warranty policy. Next day i get an RMA number and the fella said he will ship me 2 front i/o panels for my Obsidian 650D so i was very happy.

When i got the packages from UPS i saw that i had a lot more than 2 front panels, i opened the packages and what i got was 3 front i/o panels from the 650D and the other 2 are front i/o panels from the air 540 case...
I saw that it has front panel USB 3.0 header that i can connect to my MB since my case does not have such a feature i was glad this one did. I took both panels apart and swapped the USB 2.0 for the 3.0 and assembled it in my case. I discovered that the cables of the other i/o panel were too short and so could not use it so it was wasted on me....

I called again and asked why did i get the front i/o panel from the air 540 instead of my hot swap cables i asked for, the fella said that they made an mistake and he was very sorry about this and they will send me the cables if they were in stock.

I told him about my USB 3.0 issue and that IMO it was pretty inconvenient that i could not use my USB 3.0 on my motherboard and that the cables are too short from the other panel, i said that the front i/o panel from the obsidian 350D would fit and i would be very happy if they could send it to me so i can use my USB 3.0 on my MB. He said that it was appropriated that they send me that part because i had several products of them that were not functioning like they should.

In about 2 days i got my connectors and swapped them for my other 3.0 sockets and now i can actually use my USB 3.0 on my motherboard








In the next few days they send me the hot swap connectors but not one but 6 of them :O so i am very happy with the Corsair RMA department









Long story short, be nice and friendly at times and sometimes be angry, but always stay polite because YOU need something from THEM. I did the same with my retail shop i got my UD5 from and they compensate for my RMA shipment because i said it was ridiculous that i have to pay for an defective part and if i don't get my money back i will never buy something from them, an hour later i got an email with the announcement that they will pay for my shipping


----------



## SNiiPE_DoGG

thoughts on this ram in the UD3 1.1 F9?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231536

Looking to go low latency over big bandwidth, as in the past that was the way to go but I would like to hear it if I should go for this kit.


----------



## slick2500

I when I was on the phone with them I was nice, wasn't demanding or anything explained to them that even with the stock settings in the bios the cpu would throttle down to 3.0Ghz and it ran almost twice as hot as it did before this issue started. Before I had this issue the cpu at idle would run at about 19* C after this issue at idle the lowest temp I would see is 36* C, I tried 2 other cpus in the board with the same results, both would throttle down and run at about 36* C at idle. The guy I talked to said "well since the board is still not working we will get you an RMA and get you a new board as a replacement, I will talk to the RMA department and they will send you an RMA number in about 15-20 min." I emailed them last night and asked them where the RMA number is and that I did not have any more time to be waiting on this issue, so I already ordered a new motherboard.


----------



## Kittencake

The new board is in







bye bye ****ty asus


----------



## slick2500

That looks like a Thermaltake Armor case.


----------



## Kittencake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> That looks like a Thermaltake Armor case.


it is its the VA8003b with the 250 mm fan on the side


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> The new board is in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bye bye ****ty asus


Hoping you won't have heat issue and the like on your new one. That Asus is a fine board. But an ugly one so you say.
















My







:

Prepare for a hot VRM. There not much you can do to it considering your current cooler.


----------



## Mega Man

her problem was the ma970/990 idr not the kitty


----------



## Kittencake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hoping you won't have heat issue and the like on your new one. That Asus is a fine board. But an ugly one so you say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> Prepare for a hot VRM. There not much you can do to it considering your current cooler.


better than having a board that won't allow me to oc or kill usb devices lol


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> better than having a board that won't allow me to oc or kill usb devices lol


If you can relocate that cooler and snap a fan on the VRM, replace them plastic pins with proper screws, you'll be fine..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> her problem was the ma970/990 idr not the kitty


I didn't know. I assumed that "tty" for the kitty.









apologies to the lady.


----------



## Kittencake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> If you can relocate that cooler and snap a fan on the VRM, replace them plastic pins with proper screws, you'll be fine..
> I didn't know. I assumed that "tty" for the kitty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> apologies to the lady.


unfortunately my case doesn't have anywhere else to put the cooler .. I'll have to suffer till i get a new case I suppose no need to apologize, its quite alright lol


----------



## slick2500

If you want something a little different check out the Enermax Ceonus, the case is Gunmetal Grey.


----------



## aaroc

When you have a GPU on the last PCIe of a UD7, how do you manage to not bend the connectors for USB, Firewire, Audio, power, reset, lights, etc...? Do you use some kind of 90 degrees connectors or something like that?


----------



## Kittencake

vrm heat problem solved


----------



## mus1mus

WOW!









Where can I buy one?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> When you have a GPU on the last PCIe of a UD7, how do you manage to not bend the connectors for USB, Firewire, Audio, power, reset, lights, etc...? Do you use some kind of 90 degrees connectors or something like that?


honestly.,... you dont

it is one of the fails of the mobo


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> 
> 
> vrm heat problem solved


What board do you have? I remember you had some problems with previous board.

My UD5 died on me and i have to send it to my retail shop and they will repair it like the guy said, when its getting back i am going to sell it.


----------



## Kittencake

Gigabyte 990fxa -ud3 rev 4


----------



## hurricane28

Okay, seems a nice board. Is it a good overclock board or do you have to figure out still?


----------



## Kittencake

haven't figured it out but im gonna mount the fan between the rad and the heatsink then try an oc


----------



## hurricane28

Alright, good luck and let us know how it clocks


----------



## Duality92

I'll post a new pictures of how I've put my fan yesterday night. Basically I have a 140mm Corsair SP140 over the whole VRM heatsink. Yesterday night I tried it folding all night at 5Ghz (200x20, 1,4v BIOS, 1.46v under load) and it didn't go over 75°C (around 15°C ambient, I left the window open). When I had it about 2 inches above the heatsink, it was about 85°C max, so having it closer helps if it's an option for you. Usually the UD3 VRMs throttle at 115°C, which used to happen for me at 25°C ambient and 5175 Mhz Clock.

Basically my setup is like this (I had an XSPC 140mm Xinruilian fan before), but I mounted it under the wooden fan bracket instead of on top and used an SP140.
http://cdn.overclock.net/3/35/359710ad_IMAG18381.jpeg (only going to link img, it's too huge)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kittencake*
> 
> the ud3 Rev 4.0 I'm not sure if thats a good thing or not for rev 4 i'm hopging so it was in a test unit so the board has maybe an hour use in it in a computer store and it only cost me 80 CAD


I have a rev 4, just keep VRM temps in check. I'm getting great clocks with it though, I brought my FX-6350 to 5405 Mhz (23x235), benching stable under water.


----------



## bloodr0se

Would people generally recommend this board (UD3 or UD5) vs the Asus Sabretooth 990FX?

The GA board is a bit cheaper at the moment but the stories about CPU throttling concern me tbh.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Would people generally recommend this board (UD3 or UD5) vs the Asus Sabretooth 990FX?
> 
> The GA board is a bit cheaper at the moment but the stories about CPU throttling concern me tbh.


It's the VRMs that throttle not the CPU.


----------



## zila

I own both the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev3 and the ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0.

If going for a Giga go for UD5. It runs cool and hasn't throttled on me ever. That's with a 8350 in it.

The Sabertooth is just outstanding. I love that board.

I also own the Formula-Z and that IS the king of the hill. You can't go wrong with any of these boards.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> I own both the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev3 and the ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0.
> 
> If going for a Giga go for UD5. It runs cool and hasn't throttled on me ever. That's with a 8350 in it.
> 
> The Sabertooth is just outstanding. I love that board.
> 
> I also own the Formula-Z and that IS the king of the hill. You can't go wrong with any of these boards.


Thanks, would you say that the ud5 is a decent board for overclocking?


----------



## zila

Most definitely a good board for overclocking and it is built well. VRM cooling is excellent on the UD5. I would recommend putting a small fan on the vrm heat sink just to help it along. The board can take it.
















A lot of fellas here that have them will chime in I'm sure with positive notes on the board. The board is money well spent and it looks awesome too.

Edit: I ran an 8350 @ 4800MHz ~1.52 vcore, NB 2600 1.35v HT 2600 Ram @ 1866 cas 9 1.5v and the board ran nice and cool during prime and IBT. Gaming with it was a breeze.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Most definitely a good board for overclocking and it is built well. VRM cooling is excellent on the UD5. I would recommend putting a small fan on the vrm heat sink just to help it along. The board can take it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A lot of fellas here that have them will chime in I'm sure with positive notes on the board. The board is money well spent and it looks awesome too.
> 
> Edit: I ran an 8350 @ 4800MHz ~1.52 vcore, NB 2600 1.35v HT 2600 Ram @ 1866 cas 9 1.5v and the board ran nice and cool during prime and IBT. Gaming with it was a breeze.


I actually opted for the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z in the end because after reading your post I looked around and couldn't find anything negative about it. It was ~£20 ($33) more than the UD5. Does that seem like a good choice as it's still early enough to change my mind at the moment I think or would the Formula-Z be worth the extra money?


----------



## zila

Oh my God..............you just ordered yourself the best mother board ever made for that chip set. It is the KING OF THE HILL. For these chips. Good decision. Nothing else can touch it.


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Oh my God..............you just ordered yourself the best mother board ever made for that chip set. It is the KING OF THE HILL. For these chips. Good decision. Nothing else can touch it.


I guess I'll just leave the order as it is then. Hopefully the board should be here next week.







I'm planning to play around with OC'ing my old FX6100 to as far as it will go on it for a little while until a good deal arrives on an FX8350.


----------



## zila

Oh yeah, you're gonna love that board.


----------



## z3r0_k00l75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slick2500*
> 
> Called up Gigabyte on Monday at ~4:15 PST and talked to a tech support guy, told him what it is doing and what I have tried to get to get it to work, after about 10 min he told me that he would talk to the RMA department and have them send me an RMA number and that it should only take like 15-20 min then they will e-mail it to me. Well it is now 8:20 PST on Wednesday and I am yet to receive and RMA number. I got tired of waiting and just went ahead and ordered an Asus Sabertooth board, it should be here either Friday or Saturday.
> 
> I don't remember who said Gigabytes RMA service and tech support was good and fast, but in the past month that I have been dealing with this issue I am yet to see anything good or fast about it. This is by far the worst experience I have ever had with tech support from any company ever. This will also be the last time I buy a Gigabyte product.


I've never had a problem with Gigabyte rma. I go online and submit my ticket and within an hour or two I have an rma number. I send it in and after they receive it about a week later it's back in the mail headed my way. I don't understand why they are giving you the run-around but if you think Asus is going to be better to you.... well let's just say I think you are in for some surprises.


----------



## hajnalka

DDC 3.25 18W

WRM water block in motherboard
+
Nortbridge water block in motherboard
+
CPU block FX8350 overclocked to 4.8Ghz
+
GPU block AMD 7950
+
one radiator 3x120mm

need update to two radiator 3x120mm need update to two pump?
or not?


----------



## Duality92

adding a pump won't change anything, adding another res is only if you need more cooling because you're reaching limits. What fans do you have on that rad?


----------



## mus1mus

You can check for the characteristics of your component on this. Read reviews about them.

Most VRM and Chipset waterblocks are restrictive. Keep that in check so you are sure to have enough flow on the loop. Most say 1 GPM is enough to keep your loop healthy. More for bleeding out those air packets though. So if bleeding out air is not a problem on your current set-up, you dont need another pump. But you should also consider, DDCs are known to have heat issues especially when run at full tilt. Adding another pump is recommended for redundancy in case a pump dies. Also, having a couple of pumps in series will mean more head pressure. That might sound unnecessarry but will give you an option of running them at lower speed thus prolonging their life.

Another rad if your current set up is not enough to cool your components. In a CPU only loop, a 360 is enough. If you plan to add gpus later, its always good to have that extra. It will lower your Delta T that will allow you to run your fans slower. Thus more quiet.

It all comes down to your needs and preferences.

Good luck..


----------



## hajnalka

I use Alphacool 360 XT45 fans Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1150rpm

and new rad is Phobya G-Changer 360 V.2

and I have next pump DDC-1t not used maybe two system loop.


----------



## hajnalka

This time my flow is 0.9-1GPM water temp 30C idle pc when in summer room temp 32C water temp 50C
mayby two loop two ddc two rads.

DDC 3.25 is 18W
old ddc 1T 11W

is normal dual ddc in one loop another RPM?


----------



## mus1mus

Preference. Dual loop if you feel like it.

I would go for redundancy to keep things safer. But its my preference.


----------



## hajnalka

http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1936077/a/1146758/0-6gpm-flow-is-low-or-not/sort/display_order/

http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1933207/a/1146758/0-6gpm-flow-is-low-or-not/sort/display_order/


----------



## mus1mus

Link that to the Watercooling thread to get more opinions.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> DDC 3.25 18W
> 
> WRM water block in motherboard
> +
> Nortbridge water block in motherboard
> +
> CPU block FX8350 overclocked to 4.8Ghz
> +
> GPU block AMD 7950
> +
> one radiator 3x120mm
> 
> need update to two radiator 3x120mm need update to two pump?
> or not?


one should be ok. if you goto 3-4 gpus then you need 2 pumps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> adding a pump won't change anything, adding another res is only if you need more cooling because you're reaching limits. What fans do you have on that rad?


this is false, adding a res will only _slightly_ increase the time it takes for the water to become saturated ( at stable temp ) and will not assist in anyway to keep you cooler.

also adding a pump will add several things if done right


----------



## mus1mus

Meh! (gotta borrow this from ya @Mega Man )

I have drooped 2-5C doing a 750 pump + DCP 4.0 in series. Before the DCP died!


----------



## Mega Man

most vrm blocks are not very restrictive at all.

also there is big difference between if you put the pumps in parallel or series ( and installed right )


----------



## mus1mus

Naah on Parallel pumps. I think you also said the same some time ago..


----------



## Chargeit

Damn, these AMD cards just keep getting cheaper and cheaper...

R9 270x $169 w/2 free games... $159 after "MIR".

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161442&cm_re=R9_270-_-14-161-442-_-Product

That's a win right there. The HiS R9 270x I have in my AMD/AMD rig never gets past 56c with a custom fan curve, and is a great performer in games.

*I'm tempted to buy one right now to put in my ol'ladys system... But, I'm holding out for a 880 or 2nd 780. However, that price is so freaking hard to resist for such a card.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Damn, these AMD cards just keep getting cheaper and cheaper...
> 
> R9 270x $169 w/2 free games... $159 after "MIR".
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161442&cm_re=R9_270-_-14-161-442-_-Product
> 
> That's a win right there. The HiS R9 270x I have in my AMD/AMD rig never gets past 56c with a custom fan curve, and is a great performer in games.
> 
> *I'm tempted to buy one right now to put in my ol'ladys system... *But, I'm holding out for a 880* or 2nd 780. However, that price is so freaking hard to resist for such a card.


don't hold your breath on the 880, they skipped it and are releasing the 980


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> don't hold your breath on the 880, they skipped it and are releasing the 980


Same difference. They're just skipping the 800 name.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Same difference. They're just skipping the 800 name.


true


----------



## Regnitto

I've got a problem with my UD3 rev. 4.0. I recently set up a VRM fan after noticing VRM temps hitting 90c @ 4463 on my FX-6100. since then, when I'm overclocked, I notice after a while all the VRM sensor data drops to "0" in hwinfo 64, then when I restart it won't boot at all unless I reset the cmos. It ran fine on optimized default settings for a week, then I decided to try 4000 today and after about 2 hrs, the vrm sensors were on "0" and on restart i had to reset cmos. First time it did this I was running 3900 and it did it during an OCCT Test. This time it made it through the test, and did some light gaming (runescape) while watching a movie on second monitor for about an hour before having any problems.


----------



## MadGoat

sounds like it needs more voltage


----------



## hajnalka

12.9.2014 come radiator Phobya G-Changer 360 V.2

I use one loop with ddc 3.25 4620rpm 0.9Gpm
upgrading the pump to dual ddc 3.25

XSPC Dual Acrylic Top for Laing DDC V2
+
Laing DDC pump 12V DDC 3.25 18W
+
EK Water Blocks EK-DDC Heatsink Housing

more flow to rads an all block is restriction water flow need more power


----------



## Mega Man

is anyone else lost ?

i would claim bot, but 2013 is a long time for a bot


----------



## Smally268

Hi guys, im new to the forums and want to start overclocking my FX8350 to around the 4.6ghz mark. Im thinking of just going with multiplier to begin with.
Basically what im after is some info before i get started regarding temps, monitoring and bios settings so i know what i am changing and why.
I have included screenshots of both my BIOS and HWinfo just so i dont get confused lol

I am currently using HWinfo64 and am unsure which values to be looking at regarding CPU/VRM temps and what the maximum values would be for both of them.
I would assume that CPU 0 would be my actual processor temp, but what is CPU 0 Package and do i need to look out for it, and i guess the VRM temps ar monitored by VRT1 + VRT2.

I'm also unsure of exactly what to switch off in the bios for OC'ing the cpu. I know to turn off Turbo Boost and CnQ but im not sure on the rest.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Mr Small

Hwinfo Screens



Bios Screens


----------



## aaroc

Do you think possible to use 4 PCIe risers to rise 4 R9 290x with EK full blocks and terminal bridge to be able to access all connectors on the lower part of a UD7 990FX (USB2, USB3, HD Audio, buttons and lights)? finnaly I have all parts and another problems appears


----------



## Mega Man

absolutely

advice given to me at the time was to NOT cheap out on one, mining is one thing gaming is another, your choice i got mine from

http://www.adexelec.com/

very customer oriented the ones i got were 60 shipped and extremely quality ! they have a large assortment and most are made to order, they hand test all before they go out the door too !

they can tell you the max length you can go

idr all the details though ( max length ect )


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smally268*
> 
> Hi guys, im new to the forums and want to start overclocking my FX8350 to around the 4.6ghz mark. Im thinking of just going with multiplier to begin with.
> Basically what im after is some info before i get started regarding temps, monitoring and bios settings so i know what i am changing and why.
> I have included screenshots of both my BIOS and HWinfo just so i dont get confused lol
> 
> I am currently using HWinfo64 and am unsure which values to be looking at regarding CPU/VRM temps and what the maximum values would be for both of them.
> I would assume that CPU 0 would be my actual processor temp, but what is CPU 0 Package and do i need to look out for it, and i guess the VRM temps ar monitored by VRT1 + VRT2.
> 
> I'm also unsure of exactly what to switch off in the bios for OC'ing the cpu. I know to turn off Turbo Boost and CnQ but im not sure on the rest.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated
> 
> Thanks
> Mr Small


Hi man, have you tried to run a stability test ? I see your voltage is on "auto" setting this should not be stable. Lucky of you that you managed to boot at 4,6GHz with this voltage.


----------



## Smally268

Hi guys I'm running an fx8350/UD3 rev 4.0 combo and I'm trying to raise the CPU/NB voltage but I don't have a setting for it.

I do have NB core @ 1.175v and NB voltage @ 1.100v. I'm just wondering what is the correct one to adjust.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Smally268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> Hi man, have you tried to run a stability test ? I see your voltage is on "auto" setting this should not be stable. Lucky of you that you managed to boot at 4,6GHz with this voltage.


Thanks for the reply

I haven't ran anything yet just want to make sure i understand all the settings before I start any overclocking


----------



## GuPadilla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smally268*
> 
> Thanks for the reply
> 
> I haven't ran anything yet just want to make sure i understand all the settings before I start any overclocking


Here: Bulldozer overclocking guide
And for CPU/NB you mean NB Core


----------



## Smally268

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GuPadilla*
> 
> Here: Bulldozer overclocking guide
> And for CPU/NB you mean NB Core


Yeah the NB core was the one I was after. Just didn't wanna set the wrong one

That guide looks extremely useful. Gonna run through it tomorrow after work.

Appreciate the help, thank you


----------



## aaroc

Mega and Red, I need your help to configure the UD7 990FX Ver3, F2004 in my Signature. These are my problems:

1) Cant make ram work faster than 1333. Its a G.Skill Trident-X (F3-2400C10Q-32GTX DDR3-2400 PC3-19200 8192MBx4 CL10-12-12-31 1.65V). I changed the oem heat sink with EK Monarch and the RAM passed one night of memtest86+ at 2400 on a CHVFZ with the OEM and EK heat sink. On my CHVFZ I set the speed to 2400 and changed the specs CL10 and the others and worked fine. I tried to change on the UD7 and when booting tells me that the BIOS settings had problems and to load defaults.

2) I used the UD7 with a FX 8350 and FX 9730 and with the ram running at 1333 IBT AVX finnished without problems. Now I got a FX 9590 and swapped the 9370 for the 9590 and I started to get IVT AVX error with the ram at 1333. Maybe I got a bad CPU, so I changed to another new FX 9590 and the same error on IBT AVX. One hour before with the 9370 no problems on IBT AVX.I tried changin the Dram voltage to 1.65V that the Kit uses, but the problem remains.

Thanks!


Spoiler: Warning:BIOS Screenshots






























Spoiler: Warning: CPUZ screenshot

















Spoiler: Warning: IBT AVX Screenshots










Spoiler: Warning: HWInfo64 Screenshot!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Mega and Red, I need your help to configure the UD7 990FX Ver3, F2004 in my Signature. These are my problems:
> 
> 1) Cant make ram work faster than 1333. Its a G.Skill Trident-X (F3-2400C10Q-32GTX DDR3-2400 PC3-19200 8192MBx4 CL10-12-12-31 1.65V). I changed the oem heat sink with EK Monarch and the RAM passed one night of memtest86+ at 2400 on a CHVFZ with the OEM and EK heat sink. On my CHVFZ I set the speed to 2400 and changed the specs CL10 and the others and worked fine. I tried to change on the UD7 and when booting tells me that the BIOS settings had problems and to load defaults.
> 
> 2) I used the UD7 with a FX 8350 and FX 9730 and with the ram running at 1333 IBT AVX finnished without problems. Now I got a FX 9590 and swapped the 9370 for the 9590 and I started to get IVT AVX error with the ram at 1333. Maybe I got a bad CPU, so I changed to another new FX 9590 and the same error on IBT AVX. One hour before with the 9370 no problems on IBT AVX.I tried changin the Dram voltage to 1.65V that the Kit uses, but the problem remains.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning:BIOS Screenshots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: CPUZ screenshot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: IBT AVX Screenshots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: HWInfo64 Screenshot!






You need to make sure they are at 10.66 for 2133.

If you can see a higher Multi, go for it..

Or start with X.M.P Profile 1.


----------



## Mega Man

you need to up fsb for 2400

set timings and make sure not to use the x12 cpu/nb multi as it tends not to work,

normal from there

up vcore, cpu/nb and nb volts and ram volts ( and llc and all other normal things )
once you change those settings let me know with new bios screens and ill try to help

remember this board does not have cpu/nb llc nb volts may need to be more then on the CVFz

also you may not be able to get all 32 gb to work, you may though as well.

boards play a role in memory stability too so just because it worked on the CVFz does not mean it will on the ud7, though you have a high probability of it working


----------



## Xamyr

Hey everyone!

I'm an owner of the GA-990FXA-UD5 for nearly 2 years now, and since the start i ahd some troubles with it. The first problem was at the very first day i put my computer together and i leave the computer running when i left my house, when i came back the computer was off, and obviously the first thing i tought of was that it hybernated or went into sleep mode, i try pressing the power button, but nothing happends, so i disconnected the plug from the power supply and put it back in after 4-5 seconds(there is still some electricity after you plug it out), and then the computer turned on no problem, except it gave me a the message the windows didn't shut down properly. i then edned up turning off all the hybernation and sleep modes, so the problem was solved.

After few months i decided that i want to install linux on my system, but everytime i tried, it gave me things like this ( http://screenshooter.net/100006948/vdjptbc and http://screenshooter.net/100006948/awxpeeq ), i tried every single linux operating system and was unable to install them.
Now i'm trying to install it again after updating to the newest bios that is available and there is another problem......
I can go to further installation, but linux won't detect my hard discs nor my SSD, i looked up the issue, tried changing from AHCI to IDE, but no success, then digged in a bit more and found another solution that didn't work, which was to.

1. Boot Ubuntu from a Live CD or Live USB
2. Open a Terminal (Applications > Accessories > Terminal) and type sudo su
3. Type fdisk -l (note which device is your SATA drive)
4. Type dmraid -E -r /dev/sdX
5. (Replacing X with your actual device found in step 3)
6. Confirm that yes, you wish to remove the dmraid information
7. Return to the desktop and proceed to run the Ubuntu Installer

So i'd like to ask the owners of the GA-990FXA if they hadd any similar problems, and if the fixed them somehow.

Thank you for reading this


----------



## Chargeit

I redid my computer room, and can finally take a proper pic of my rig... I know I've posted it a few times and said how it looks better in person.


----------



## mus1mus

NICE!!!

Beautifully done.. Need some sleeving to put the icing.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> NICE!!!
> 
> Beautifully done.. Need some sleeving to put the icing.


Thanks.

Yea, sooner or later I'm going to get around to something like that.









I'm really stoked. Now it's well displayed. It's amazing the difference it makes having the side of the case facing the center of the room, instead of the front.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I redid my computer room, and can finally take a proper pic of my rig... I know I've posted it a few times and said how it looks better in person.


Smexy!!! Nice to see some 540 love (?)

But i'm pretty sure that your second gpu is burning your first one with all that hot air, i'll glad to take that monster away from you.


----------



## Chargeit

Thanks.









It's just a 750 ti under it. Not much hot air coming from that thing.


----------



## Jethrodood

Hey guys. Just went from Asrock 970 extreme 3 to an 990FXA UD3. Seems like good solid hardware. Was hoping to stretch clocks out with 8+2 pwm. No such luck yet. I must say i do prefer the Asrock bios. Gigabyte has better SATA speeds however which is nice. Fan controls are confusing!

Anyway Easytune seems to be junk. Doesnt even detect my current cpu speed correctly! So software clocking is not happening with this board then eh? I like to fine tune with software and test before i commit changes via bios is all...


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> Hey guys. Just went from Asrock 970 extreme 3 to an 990FXA UD3. Seems like good solid hardware. Was hoping to stretch clocks out with 8+2 pwm. No such luck yet. I must say i do prefer the Asrock bios. Gigabyte has better SATA speeds however which is nice. Fan controls are confusing!
> 
> Anyway Easytune seems to be junk. Doesnt even detect my current cpu speed correctly! So software clocking is not happening with this board then eh? I like to fine tune with software and test before i commit changes via bios is all...


i made the same upgrade hoping the same thing..
my 8350 topped out at 4400 @ 1.4 with medium llc.

i can push it all the way to 4600 with 1.5v but if you look in hwmon the cpu throttles bad at 100% load.. its not even worth the 200mhz when its only one core running at full speed.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> Hey guys. Just went from Asrock 970 extreme 3 to an 990FXA UD3. Seems like good solid hardware. Was hoping to stretch clocks out with 8+2 pwm. No such luck yet. I must say i do prefer the Asrock bios. Gigabyte has better SATA speeds however which is nice. Fan controls are confusing!
> 
> Anyway Easytune seems to be junk. Doesnt even detect my current cpu speed correctly! So software clocking is not happening with this board then eh? I like to fine tune with software and test before i commit changes via bios is all...


Bios is the way to go.

Few quick tips, Don't use Auto on the Voltages as well as with RAM timings.

We have people having issues on that board (check your revision. rev3 and 4 are troublesome) with Octa cores.

LLC works well below Ultra.

Secure your VRM heatsink with proper screws or put them under water if you can.

Post your screen shots if you'd like. A lot of helpful people round here.


----------



## Jethrodood

Well im torn because on one hand the board is definitely faster but on the other hand even with more stable Volts offers LESS clockablity.... CPU and NB speeds both...

Probably gonna roll with it now since i already gave my other board to my daughter









Im running a 6200 cpu that did 4.65 on the asrock and now wont hold 4.55+ on the gigabyte... Im custom watercooled <48c load. Oh and yes Rev 4.0

OMG easytune sucks..... Hmmm Is it bad if i smell something burning? LOL

EDIT found it!


----------



## karakarga07

Hi to all,









The voltage regulation area have an empty capacitor place. It is possible to add a 16V 100uF, 4V 560uF or 6,3V 470~560uF solid capacitor from Sanyo SEPC, Nichicon PSA (or from other similar brands!)

This mod is surely more logical and un-dangerous!









All other mainboards, starting from nVidia 570, 590 chipset including AMD's own 890 and later series and many other gx or nVidia built in graphics series mainboards , have such a capacitor at that place!


----------



## karakarga07

I made a litte mistake in capacitor brand series:

PSA, PSE and PSF series are manufacturing by nippon chemi-con not by nichicon!

Nichicon meanwhile makes LE and LF series, at 6,3mm diameter that can fit there!

Sorry for confusing!

By the way, I don't think, that are uses more than 4 Volts. But from the other build-up maninboars, there usually stays a 16Volt capacitor, with 100uF capacitance.

If this capacitor, welcomes power from 12Volt area, it is a must than putting a 16Volt capacitor!









I am not exactly sure of voltage for that place for now. I will soon test....


----------



## karakarga07

Grammer correction:

By the way, I don't think, that "area"

"a" is not present by typing mistake, sorry again!


----------



## Chargeit

Hey, if you remember about a month ago I had PSU issues. I replaced my "Corsair TX850M" with a "Seasonic X-850 gold", I then RMA'ed the TX850M.

A few days ago I received my replacement for the TX850M, a "RM850". I'm not using it in my rig since I already have a superior PSU. The X-850 is considered a tier 1 PSU, vs the RM850 tier 3 (Thanks Corsair).

I'm now trying to figure out what I'm going to do with the RM850. I'm thinking about tossing it into my ol'ladys rig, which currently has my old CX500M in it. However, she is a heavy mmo'er, and uses the system easily 12 hours a day (yea, really). I'm wondering if I should sell the RM850 on craigslist or something and buy her a Seasonic X-650 instead of putting the RM850 into her system. First, she is such a heavy gamer that she could really use a PSU designed for heavy use, and second, 850W is a lot for her system, even OC'ed.

I really don't want to be bothered by selling it, but, dealing with that TX850M has put a very bad taste in my mouth for Corsair PSU.

So,

Quality/inconvenience (sell RM850, buy X-650)

Or

Good enough/easy (Just stick the RM850 in it)

What do you guys think?


----------



## Jethrodood

Good enough keep the 850. Im sure you just got a bad apple. Most corsair stuff is decent once you get a good one, IE water cooling solutions etc. Good company that means well but sometimes when they slap thier name on something that hasnt been time tested even tho it looks good they can still get burned just like we do.

Back to the gigabyte board. Its official this board will not clock as high as the Asrock. That said there is alot to like about it. Beta bios is really good n snappy. Tighter ram timings, sleep actually works, sata speeds are much better, tons of usb ports, voltage is much more stable and at some point I can get an 8 core cpu.

All in all not bad


----------



## Tasm

Got a GA UD7 Rev 2.0 + FX8350 today, this board is a total beast.

Coming from UD3p + FX8320.


----------



## Mega Man

welcome !


----------



## Regnitto

just updated to the new beta bios for my ud3 rev 4 (f3h) testing @ 4000(20x200)/4.5vcore/medium llc to see if the bios update fixes the problems I've been having w the VRM when overclocked.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> just updated to the new beta bios for my ud3 rev 4 (f3h) testing @ 4000(20x200)/4.5vcore/medium llc to see if the bios update fixes the problems I've been having w the VRM when overclocked.


Oh dear god, I can't wait to get home from work xD


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> just updated to the new beta bios for my ud3 rev 4 (f3h) testing @ 4000(20x200)/4.5vcore/medium llc to see if the bios update fixes the problems I've been having w the VRM when overclocked.


Although I'm excited to finally see a new bios released for our boards... I doubt that it will contain anything usefull other than the correct support for the new 8370 and what not.

I'll be installing when I get a chance today. Let's post up any results!


----------



## Regnitto

ok, i ran for a few hours doing the same thing i was doing last time i had my VRM problem (played Runescape for a few hours), all is well. seems to have fixed the problem for now. VRM sensors never quit reading, and I was able to restart without jumping my cmos. Looks like i'm back in the Overclocking game! Also, I just installed an extra 250gb hdd. This brings my total drives to 3 (128gb ssd for windows, 250gb & 1.5tb hdds for storage)


----------



## 1EvilMan

Just upgraded from my old MSi 890GXM-G65 to the UD3 rev. 4 and added a second R7870 Hawk. The pci-e spacing is perfect for these cards.

http://valid.canardpc.com/gmldnv

A couple of questions:

It came with bios F2, has the latest beta bios been working well for everyone?

I've started doing some light overclocking following the Bulldozer link located in this thread to get the feel of the bios and board. Of course I get the double boot now and after searching this thread I found something about enabling turbo core after matching cpu core. The terminology was not the same as in the bios so what I tried didn't work.
Could someone go over it again? (I know, "AGAIN, Dan"??) Thanks in advance for the help!


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1EvilMan*
> 
> Just upgraded from my old MSi 890GXM-G65 to the UD3 rev. 4 and added a second R7870 Hawk. The pci-e spacing is perfect for these cards.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/gmldnv
> 
> A couple of questions:
> 
> It came with bios F2, has the latest beta bios been working well for everyone?
> 
> I've started doing some light overclocking following the Bulldozer link located in this thread to get the feel of the bios and board. Of course I get the double boot now and after searching this thread I found something about enabling turbo core after matching cpu core. The terminology was not the same as in the bios so what I tried didn't work.
> Could someone go over it again? (I know, "AGAIN, Dan"??) Thanks in advance for the help!


Bios F3h has been working fine for me so far. It actually fixed a problem i recently started having with my VRM sensors dropping out when overclocked causing me to reset cmos on restart. Also, I haven't noticed the double boot at all on Bios F3h so far with CPB enabled and set to match cpu core clock. On F2 i was getting double boot with CPB enabled and set to match cpu core clock, and TRIPLE boot with CPB disabled......


----------



## 1EvilMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Bios F3h has been working fine for me so far. It actually fixed a problem i recently started having with my VRM sensors dropping out when overclocked causing me to reset cmos on restart. Also, I haven't noticed the double boot at all on Bios F3h so far with CPB enabled and set to match cpu core clock. On F2 i was getting double boot with CPB enabled and set to match cpu core clock, and TRIPLE boot with CPB disabled......


Ok thanks! When you match cpu core clock, you match it to what you set the overclock to right?


----------



## Jethrodood

Beta bios works flawlessly. Believe me finding my old overclock on this board has stressed it plenty.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1EvilMan*
> 
> Just upgraded from my old MSi 890GXM-G65 to the UD3 rev. 4 and added a second R7870 Hawk. The pci-e spacing is perfect for these cards.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/gmldnv
> 
> A couple of questions:
> 
> It came with bios F2, has the latest beta bios been working well for everyone?
> 
> I've started doing some light overclocking following the Bulldozer link located in this thread to get the feel of the bios and board. Of course I get the double boot now and after searching this thread I found something about enabling turbo core after matching cpu core. The terminology was not the same as in the bios so what I tried didn't work.
> Could someone go over it again? (I know, "AGAIN, Dan"??) Thanks in advance for the help!


basically what people say to do is set the clock multi to whatever you want to OC to, then go into the advanced part and set the turbo multi to the same speed..
but this did not work for me as when the turbo is on, no matter what speed i give the multi its only 20.5. i think it has something to do with the tdp of the vrms.

cpu-z will say 7-22 but the cpu will only ever clock to 20.5

so i just turned the turbo off, set the multi to 22 and set the volts to normal (1.3 with turbo off, its 1.375 with it on) + .100 offset for a total of 1.400 with medium LLC and called it good to go. (hwinfo64 says the vid of my chip is 1.375 but i needed 1.400 to run, yours may vary)
it does do the double boot, but that is actually normal for OC boards.. my x58 does it as well.


----------



## 1EvilMan

Ok cool. I flashed to F3h last night so tonight I'll work on the overclock. Thanks for the help everyone.


----------



## Tec Savy

I must admit it one awesome motherboards I saw lately. I hope you will have best results with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Bios F3h has been working fine for me so far. It actually fixed a problem i recently started having with my VRM sensors dropping out when overclocked causing me to reset cmos on restart. Also, I haven't noticed the double boot at all on Bios F3h so far with CPB enabled and set to match cpu core clock. On F2 i was getting double boot with CPB enabled and set to match cpu core clock, and TRIPLE boot with CPB disabled......


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1EvilMan*
> 
> Ok thanks! When you match cpu core clock, you match it to what you set the overclock to right?


yes


----------



## Chargeit

Finally setup for surround gaming. =D



My camera sucks at taking pictures involving light, as you can see.

Oh, and yea, that is a custom laptop cooler/CD stand under the left monitor. Can't find that in stores buddy. lol.

I'll mount them here soon. The issues is, since they are all different monitors with different mounting heights on the back, I can't just buy a cheap mount. The ones that are fully adjustable cost in the $200+ range.

That BenQ XL2420Z is amazing btw. I'm seeing colors and details I didn't realize where in the games I played. Great PQ for a TN without a doubt.


----------



## aaronsta1

i just tried the new bios..
its not working for me.

as soon as i change the multi it says boot error and has me load default..

i cant even change the ram to the speed that i was using without getting a blue screen boot error..

looks like its back to f2


----------



## Jethrodood

Did you reset the bios after you flashed? Might help.


----------



## Obfuscator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I redid my computer room, and can finally take a proper pic of my rig... I know I've posted it a few times and said how it looks better in person.


I just logged in to catch up on a few things, and I noticed your setup. I think it looks pretty good, thanks for sharing.


----------



## Chargeit

Thanks man.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1EvilMan*
> 
> Just upgraded from my old MSi 890GXM-G65 to the UD3 rev. 4 and added a second R7870 Hawk. The pci-e spacing is perfect for these cards.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/gmldnv
> 
> A couple of questions:
> 
> It came with bios F2, has the latest beta bios been working well for everyone?
> 
> I've started doing some light overclocking following the Bulldozer link located in this thread to get the feel of the bios and board. Of course I get the double boot now and after searching this thread I found something about enabling turbo core after matching cpu core. The terminology was not the same as in the bios so what I tried didn't work.
> Could someone go over it again? (I know, "AGAIN, Dan"??) Thanks in advance for the help!


That's a pretty sweet looking setup.


----------



## 1EvilMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> That's a pretty sweet looking setup.


Thanks man!!







That 3 monitor setup you've got is sick!!


----------



## vonss

Anyone has any news regarding new BIOS's for the UD3's?


----------



## mrzoo

Anyone ever have any clearance issues with the ud3 board in a Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 case when mounting a rad. I'm thinking of getting this case since I can't mount a rad a top in my current case nzxt source 210.


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Anyone ever have any clearance issues with the ud3 board in a Corsair Carbide Series Air 540 case when mounting a rad. I'm thinking of getting this case since I can't mount a rad a top in my current case nzxt source 210.


I don't think you will have issues. I will get my brother to take some pics of his. He has a h100i mounted in the top. Which he could have mounted in the front if he had wanted.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Anyone has any news regarding new BIOS's for the UD3's?


works fine for me. it fixed a VRM issue i was having, but i think I had corrupted my F2 bios.


----------



## Duality92

Fine for me....


----------



## Jethrodood

Great here.

I think my vrms are running to hot even with 80mm fan on them because 1.46+ will not run reliably as it would on asrock







.

Is it common to have to check the heatsink on these boards?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Yes. It seems that way.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Although I'm excited to finally see a new bios released for our boards... I doubt that it will contain anything usefull other than the correct support for the new 8370 and what not.
> 
> I'll be installing when I get a chance today. Let's post up any results!


Are you flashing the rev 4.0 bios to your rev 1.0?


----------



## Chargeit

I pulled that "HiS R9 270x" out of my back up rig, and put it into my ol'ladys rig...

I might of been lying about the thing being quiet. In my case (Rosewill R5) you could barely hear it, and it never got past 56c. In her case, (Antec Gx500) the thing sounds like a jet engine at anything above 50% fan speed.

Luckily, I was able to set a custom fan curve, and running maxed heaven 4.0 it maxed out at 61c at 40 - 45% fan speed.

When I first heard that sucker kick in, it had me worried. There is no way she, or hell I'd want to deal with the noise that thing was making.

I don't blame that on the GPU. I think it's the front side vents, and the fact that the card really fills the case out that did the damage. To be honest, even though the card fits in the case fine, I don't think the case was really meant for a card like that.

Maybe moar isn't always better.


----------



## Chargeit

Excess has been reached!



I think it's now time to look into water cooling.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Excess has been reached!
> 
> 
> 
> I think it's now time to look into water cooling.


I dare ya


----------



## Tec Savy

Awesome I must say







Yes, you are right now after all this you should look for water cooling.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Excess has been reached!
> 
> 
> 
> *I think it's now time to look into water cooling.*


.


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, water cooling time. Pumping all that heat out, even into a case that has really good airflow kills it. My top card is hitting 75c or so stress testing Heaven 4.0, that really isn't as bad as something like furmark, which I wouldn't dare right now.

Looks pretty cool though.

*Oh, and trust me, it is loud.


----------



## Tec Savy

I am Convinced it is Loud







It looks amazingly Awesome and I bet it works as well.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, water cooling time. Pumping all that heat out, even into a case that has really good airflow kills it. My top card is hitting 75c or so stress testing Heaven 4.0, that really isn't as bad as something like furmark, which I wouldn't dare right now.
> 
> Looks pretty cool though.
> 
> **Oh, and trust me, it is loud*.


.


----------



## Chargeit

Nice. I was looking at the pic, and I thought... Damn, that thing looks shiner then it should. I forgot to remove the protective plastic off the top plate.









I did that on my first one also. I forgot about that. Oh well, off now.


----------



## Obfuscator

I just noticed that the F12 BIOS for my GA-990FXA-UD5 revision 1.1 now lists support for the FX-8370 and FX-8370E processors.
http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=3891

I had been thinking about upgrading my brother's computer which I built based upon the GA-*890*FXA-UD5 revision 3.1 motherboard for a number of months now. It looks like my procrastination has paid off, because instead of buying another FX-8350, I can just give him mine and "upgrade" my PC with a FX-8370. My brother currently is running with a Phenom II X4 955 in his motherboard.

I of course realize that the FX-8370 is just a "binned" FX-8350, but since I am buying another processor, I might as well get the best one I can for my motherboard.


----------



## aaroc

After a lot of testing,I fixed my first problem, IBT AVX always gave errors. The UD7 990FX Rev 3 (F2004 on the sig) needs LLC changed on the BIOS to work with an FX 9590. When you use IBT AVX the voltage drops like there is no tomorrow (1.4V on idle to 1.3 on load reading on CPUZ), thats why IBT failed. Changing LLC to something like high the voltage stays on the 1.4. Using LLC extreme uses 1.5 voltage and the CPU temperatures raises a lot. When using FX 9370/8350 I had all on default and it completed IBT AVX without problems.

My second problem was that I can only run my 4 dimms (8GB 2400 G.Skill Trident-X) 32 GB total at 1333. I selected XMP profile, changed values manually. Always BIOS boot error and 1333. So I disassembled the RAM waterblock and tested one by one the dimms. Making it short, the dimm slot number 4 only works at 1333. Any combination of Dimms on the first 3 slots run without problems at 2133 selecting XMP profile. But using only one dimm or any other combination with the fourth dimm slot with ram and it only works at 1333.
I thought that the mobo was bad, but I have another UD7 990FX and it gave the same problem with the dimm slot number 4.
Tried with FX 8350, 9370 and two 9590 the same issue. Used Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1866, 32GB total and the same problem. I dont have smaller dimms









Red, I saw your pictures of the old and new Quadfire PC and they have 4 dimms on the UD7 990FX, what specs are those Dominators? Do you run them at more than 1333?


----------



## mus1mus

2400 RAM will always be a pain even with 2 sticks on.

Try out 2133. or 1866 with tighter timings.

Also note, Gigas won't work with X12 CPU-NB (Windows Aero and some other issues). You will be forced to use X13 or 2600 MHz at stock FSB. I maybe wrong though as UD7 users haven't confirmed this. UD5 down, confirmed to have a blocked out 2400 or X12 Multi on CPU-NB.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> After a lot of testing,I fixed my first problem, IBT AVX always gave errors. The UD7 990FX Rev 3 (F2004 on the sig) needs LLC changed on the BIOS to work with an FX 9590. When you use IBT AVX the voltage drops like there is no tomorrow (1.4V on idle to 1.3 on load reading on CPUZ), thats why IBT failed. Changing LLC to something like high the voltage stays on the 1.4. Using LLC extreme uses 1.5 voltage and the CPU temperatures raises a lot. When using FX 9370/8350 I had all on default and it completed IBT AVX without problems.
> 
> My second problem was that I can only run my 4 dimms (8GB 2400 G.Skill Trident-X) 32 GB total at 1333. I selected XMP profile, changed values manually. Always BIOS boot error and 1333. So I disassembled the RAM waterblock and tested one by one the dimms. Making it short, the dimm slot number 4 only works at 1333. Any combination of Dimms on the first 3 slots run without problems at 2133 selecting XMP profile. But using only one dimm or any other combination with the fourth dimm slot with ram and it only works at 1333.
> I thought that the mobo was bad, but I have another UD7 990FX and it gave the same problem with the dimm slot number 4.
> Tried with FX 8350, 9370 and two 9590 the same issue. Used Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1866, 32GB total and the same problem. I dont have smaller dimms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red, I saw your pictures of the old and new Quadfire PC and they have 4 dimms on the UD7 990FX, what specs are those Dominators? Do you run them at more than 1333?


hey look ANOTHER bios issue that giga wont fix, i thought asus was bad and giga had no issues ( inside joke guys )
as to your issue in my experience none of my chips can run 8gb sticks at 2400 @ all four dimms . none ( to be fair i stopped testing after the second chip ) are you increasing CPU/nb and NB volts to compensate ? ( also may need more vcore )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 2400 RAM will always be a pain even with 2 sticks on.
> 
> Try out 2133. or 1866 with tighter timings.
> 
> Also note, Gigas won't work with X12 CPU-NB (Windows Aero and some other issues). You will be forced to use X13 or 2600 MHz at stock FSB. I maybe wrong though as UD7 users haven't confirmed this. UD5 down, confirmed to have a blocked out 2400 or X12 Multi on CPU-NB.


yes i have several times, another ( so +2 in this post alone ) gigabyte bios issue


----------



## jacqlittle

Extracted from QVL:

_Note: Only one DIMM per channel is supported for DDR3-1866MHz and higher speed as using an AM3+ CPU._

http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Memory/memory_ga-990fxa-ud7.pdf

I read in some places that some people is lucky and could have simultaneously 4 DIMMs at 1866MHz or more, but it isn´t guaranteed with those processors...


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> After a lot of testing,I fixed my first problem, IBT AVX always gave errors. The UD7 990FX Rev 3 (F2004 on the sig) needs LLC changed on the BIOS to work with an FX 9590. When you use IBT AVX the voltage drops like there is no tomorrow (1.4V on idle to 1.3 on load reading on CPUZ), thats why IBT failed. Changing LLC to something like high the voltage stays on the 1.4. Using LLC extreme uses 1.5 voltage and the CPU temperatures raises a lot. When using FX 9370/8350 I had all on default and it completed IBT AVX without problems.
> 
> My second problem was that I can only run my 4 dimms (8GB 2400 G.Skill Trident-X) 32 GB total at 1333. I selected XMP profile, changed values manually. Always BIOS boot error and 1333. So I disassembled the RAM waterblock and tested one by one the dimms. Making it short, the dimm slot number 4 only works at 1333. Any combination of Dimms on the first 3 slots run without problems at 2133 selecting XMP profile. But using only one dimm or any other combination with the fourth dimm slot with ram and it only works at 1333.
> I thought that the mobo was bad, but I have another UD7 990FX and it gave the same problem with the dimm slot number 4.
> Tried with FX 8350, 9370 and two 9590 the same issue. Used Corsair Vengeance 8GB 1866, 32GB total and the same problem. I dont have smaller dimms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Red, I saw your pictures of the old and new Quadfire PC and they have 4 dimms on the UD7 990FX, what specs are those Dominators? Do you run them at more than 1333?


Hey aaroc,

I run the Plat Doms at 2133Mhz @ 10-10-10-28. I can run them @ 2400Mhz but they prefer the tighter

timings.

I am running BIOS 10E+ though

No reason for the pic...I just like this shot


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jacqlittle*
> 
> Extracted from QVL:
> 
> _Note: Only one DIMM per channel is supported for DDR3-1866MHz and higher speed as using an AM3+ CPU._
> 
> http://download.gigabyte.eu/FileList/Memory/memory_ga-990fxa-ud7.pdf
> 
> I read in some places that some people is lucky and could have simultaneously 4 DIMMs at 1866MHz or more, but it isn´t guaranteed with those processors...


we know the ratings 2 sticks @ 1866 ( one per chan ) or 4 @ 1600.

i was telling him my experience with 2400 which is obviously above this


----------



## vonss

New beta BIOS for the 1.0/1.1 owners


----------



## Manganez72

Hi guys !
Big disapointment since I replaced my DFI LP by a UD3 rev4.0 .. 2 days I'm getting crazy to at least equal the setup I had on the DFI

The old setup was 3.8Ghz [email protected] [email protected] 7-6-6 Rockstable H24

Now I'm looking for a bit stability @ 3.8Ghz [email protected] [email protected] (







) ... Either bsod, reboot, or prime fatal error (always the same core, worker #2)

Last night I booted fine with the settings I had before on the DFI but was not stable, I decided to go sleep with a memtest session started, 20 passes, 8h later : no errors

After a good coffee I was ready to continue and try again some settings ( except a few expert timings, I think I tried all the possible bios settings/voltages ) and WOW , no more possible to get dual channel above 1333
Seems the memtest night session hurted...!?!

So it boot @1600 but In single channel and windows says 4Go but only 2 available, same in cpu-z

I cant find it, want to isolate the weak part but I'm starting to doubt about all : cpu ram mb... and the compatibility between them

What do you think I have to do with ? I think its the mobo but how to be sure? I will upgrade soon with a vishera et new ram but I need to be sure my mobo is not suspect

Thanks for any suggestions









cheers

edit : all max temperatures under load are very good (better then with the DFI) cpu 43°C NB 45°C VRM 57°C Tower ~ 30°C


----------



## mus1mus

Bios screenshots..


----------



## Jethrodood

I had the same issue when I got the ud3 rev 4.0. Nerfed overclock. In my case it was disable all the "cpu settings", and manually setting ram timings just to be on par with my old clocks.

Im at 4.4 with 2.5nb atm so not awful but still cant throw any juice at my chip even watercooled. Its not cpu temps either it has to be VRM temps. I do have an 80mm fan on them as well..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> I had the same issue when I got the ud3 rev 4.0. Nerfed overclock. In my case it was disable all the "cpu settings", and manually setting ram timings just to be on par with my old clocks.
> 
> Im at 4.4 with 2.5nb atm so not awful but still cant throw any juice at my chip even watercooled. Its not cpu temps either it has to be VRM temps. I do have an 80mm fan on em to.


Try to find a generic VRM block.

Or experiment with the LLC Settings.

My older UD3 Rev 3 has no problems up to 1.488ish. That was when I am still on AIR. So can't relly tell if that the VRM or my CPU Cooler.


----------



## Jethrodood

Ive looked for VRM blocks but they dont work well with my 1/2 ID setup.

I've tried different LLC settings but medium works best. I'll give it another go.

Ultimately i think ill have topull the darned heatsink off and see whats up...


----------



## vonss

At least on the non-UEFI BIOS, "High" and "Ultra High" are THE best options.


----------



## Jethrodood

Can someone verify what would be my VRM temps here before I start tinkering again?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> Ive looked for VRM blocks but they dont work well with my 1/2 ID setup.
> 
> I've tried different LLC settings but medium works best. I'll give it another go.
> 
> Ultimately i think ill have topull the darned heatsink off and see whats up...


Just make sure you are willing to lose your Warranty.

I'd suggest you pull the heatsink out, and replace those push-pins with proper screws. And if you can make a backplate for the VRM, better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> At least on the non-UEFI BIOS, "High" and "Ultra High" are THE best options.


I do believe older revs are still better. If I am correct, rev 1.1 has the same VRMs as the UD5s.


----------



## Manganez72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Bios screenshots..


Well I even had a bsod while torture test in single channel









What kind of screens would help you to help me







?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone verify what would be my VRM temps here before I start tinkering again?


At what clock is this?

I think VRs. Not sure.

I don't think the board will limit your OC with the Hexa.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> Well I even had a bsod while torture test in single channel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of screens would help you to help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


First, *Push everything back to defaults.* Reboot to BIOS

Set CPU-NB or CPU NorthBridge to 2200 (stock)
And, the HT LINK Frequency to 2600 (stock)








Don't be confused with the terms buddy. Reboot to BIOS
Quote:


>


Just disable C1E. Not sure if it will help but we'll turn off everything atm.

Reboot to BIOS

Set your RAM Profile to Profile 1 if it supports XMP. Otherwise, Try if you can get it to 1600
Quote:


>


----------



## Manganez72

I also think its VRs
With my deneb cpu I can hold my fingers on under load, it seems correct with HWinfo readings : ~ 55°C


----------



## Jethrodood

Ok it does appear VR is the one. 68c loaded with prime at 1.41v. That seem high already?


----------



## Manganez72

I really dont know, I would say yes, a bit high with a hexa
You guys are talking about FXs ( mus1mus I dont think ht [email protected] with a phenom is a good idea, am I wrong? )


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> I really dont know, I would say yes, a bit high with a hexa
> You guys are talking about FXs ( mus1mus I dont think ht [email protected] with a phenom is a good idea, am I wrong? )


ohh.. Sorries..









Matching them at 2200 isn't too bad I guess


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> 
> 
> Ok it does appear VR is the one. 68c loaded with prime at 1.41v. That seem high already?


Think of these simple way to check..

VRM temps reading and your feel of things.

Try to touch the heatsink. 68 is hot to the touch. Sometimes, most of the times in fact, poor contact can give you high temps. And are always the case for these boards.


----------



## Manganez72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> First, *Push everything back to defaults.* Reboot to BIOS
> 
> Set CPU-NB or CPU NorthBridge to 2200 (stock)
> And, the HT LINK Frequency to 2600 (stock)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't be confused with the terms buddy. Reboot to BIOS
> Just disable C1E. Not sure if it will help but we'll turn off everything atm.
> 
> Reboot to BIOS
> 
> Set your RAM Profile to Profile 1 if it supports XMP. Otherwise, Try if you can get it to 1600


I already tried a clear cmos / reset to defaults (trying to get ddr1600 back)

Now I didnt disable C1E and didnt try DDR profile but my kit is1033 7-7-7 1.5v default , rated @1600 7-6-6 1.9v manually (old 2009 OCZ) ->> So I will check that








Other thing I can try is use other slots then DDR1 and 3, what do you think? giga's manual says dual channel with 2 sticks is 1 & 3 for better performance ...


----------



## Manganez72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ohh.. Sorries..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matching them at 2200 isn't too bad I guess


No problem







my rig is quite hybrid lol


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Just make sure you are willing to lose your Warranty.
> 
> I'd suggest you pull the heatsink out, and replace those push-pins with proper screws. And if you can make a backplate for the VRM, better.
> I do believe older revs are still better. If I am correct, rev 1.1 has the same VRMs as the UD5s.


Yeah, it seems to be that rev 1.1 is the "less dodgy" of all the revs, thought I have no idea about the VMR's difference between but "technically" the rev 4 should have the best one.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vonss*
> 
> Yeah, it seems to be that rev 1.1 is the "less dodgy" of all the revs, thought I have no idea about the *VRM's* difference between but "technically" the rev 4 should have the best one.


Corrected for you









I have no idea about them either. What's apparent is that, rev 4 share the same fate as the rev 3.

That split-phase design was poorly applied. They are less powerful chips that were meant to divide the loading per phase which should of offered higher headroom than a single more powerful chip. Their ratings are somewhat a tad higher when combined. But what came out was a less functioning combo. Produced more heat, and function well below expectations.


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Corrected for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea about them either. What's apparent is that, rev 4 share the same fate as the rev 3.
> 
> That split-phase design was poorly applied. They are less powerful chips that were meant to divide the loading per phase which should of offered higher headroom than a single more powerful chip. Their ratings are somewhat a tad higher when combined. But what came out was a less functioning combo. Produced more heat, and function well below expectations.


That is some very interesting information. Hopefully, when I upgrade to a 6300, I won't have that much issues overclocking it. Time will tell.


----------



## vlaint

does the fx 6300 throttle on a ga 990fxa ud3 rev 3 as well? or only or octa cores


----------



## Jethrodood

Man i wish i would have done my homework on this board instead of assuming 8+2 was good....


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlaint*
> 
> does the fx 6300 throttle on a ga 990fxa ud3 rev 3 as well? or only or octa cores


I've said this many, many times, but a processor will not throttle unless it is improperly cooled, they don't just throttle randomly. What actually throttles is the VRMs because they heat up so much (they throttle at 115°C to give you an idea). Before adding a fan, my FX-6350 would do 5175 MHz, but after a while of stressing, it would throttle because VRMs couldn't take it. Adding a fan above the VRMs remidied this (I had a 140mm fan on top) made max tempatures drop from a throttling 115°C to high 80s, low 90s. Although I'm still looking for a waterblock for them.


----------



## vlaint

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I've said this many, many times, but a processor will not throttle unless it is improperly cooled, they don't just throttle randomly. What actually throttles is the VRMs because they heat up so much (they throttle at 115°C to give you an idea). Before adding a fan, my FX-6350 would do 5175 MHz, but after a while of stressing, it would throttle because VRMs couldn't take it. Adding a fan above the VRMs remidied this (I had a 140mm fan on top) made max tempatures drop from a throttling 115°C to high 80s, low 90s. Although I'm still looking for a waterblock for them.


The vrms i mean. Yes i added a stock hsf from the cpu on top of the heatsink hope its enough. thanks


----------



## Jethrodood

Update! So i revisited the fan situation on my VRMs and come to find out my heat sink is bolted to the board and appears to be transfering heat well. In my case placement of the fan was not ideal and now im getting 57c max with 1.46v and seems to be stable at 4.62 again. Currently testing at Extreme LLC.

So it appears rev 4.0 have addressed the VRM cooling but a well placed fan is still a must for clocking.

Also I notice that the RAM voltages on this board undervolt quite a bit for those of you with RAM issues.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> Update! So i revisited the fan situation on my VRMs and come to find out my heat sink is bolted to the board and appears to be transfering heat well. In my case placement of the fan was not ideal and now im getting 57c max with 1.46v and seems to be stable at 4.62 again. Currently testing at Extreme LLC.
> 
> So it appears rev 4.0 have addressed the VRM cooling but a well placed fan is still a must for clocking.
> 
> Also I notice that the RAM voltages on this board undervolt quite a bit for those of you with RAM issues.


Tell me.. Im now on a sabertooth.. And still need a couple of fans for the VRMs..








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I've said this many, many times, but a processor will not throttle unless it is improperly cooled, they don't just throttle randomly. What actually throttles is the VRMs because they heat up so much (they throttle at 115°C to give you an idea). Before adding a fan, my FX-6350 would do 5175 MHz, but after a while of stressing, it would throttle because VRMs couldn't take it. Adding a fan above the VRMs remidied this (I had a 140mm fan on top) made max tempatures drop from a throttling 115°C to high 80s, low 90s. Although I'm still looking for a waterblock for them.


Your experience is helpful and limited to 6-core chips..

Octas are different stories.


----------



## Manganez72

So I'm back with this screen... never saw that before, can someone explain it ? DDR kit is 2x2Gb


Impossible to get ddr1600 back, memtest see only 2Gb, windows shows 4Gb but says only 2 available

I would like to test the max oc of the cpu but cant do it because of unstability everywhere (@ddr1033, 1333, single channel etc ...)


----------



## aaroc

As I can run at least 2x 8GB dimms at 2133 (16GB total) I ordered the EK WB for the ud7 990fx! It finally appeared on PPCS, i was going to order from EK directly








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> So I'm back with this screen... never saw that before, can someone explain it ? DDR kit is 2x2Gb
> 
> 
> Impossible to get ddr1600 back, memtest see only 2Gb, windows shows 4Gb but says only 2 available
> 
> I would like to test the max oc of the cpu but cant do it because of unstability everywhere (@ddr1033, 1333, single channel etc ...)


Power off your computer, take the dimms out and clean contacts on the dimms and dimms slot. One of your dimms is not making good contact or is simply bad. this happened once to me, cleaned and reseated the dimms and Windows/Memtest86+ recognized all dimms.


----------



## Manganez72

Thanks for your input aaroc, I will try it
But DC is on @1033 & 1333 so dimm contacts looks ok ?

So at the beginning I managed to get ddr1600 but wasnt stable under prime, thats why I started a memtest session (8h errors free) : I rebooted but memtest and windows will then recognize only 2Gb while bios is showing 4Gb...

I'm wondering if memtest session killed something ?? a stick ? cpu ?


----------



## vonss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> Update! So i revisited the fan situation on my VRMs and come to find out my heat sink is bolted to the board and appears to be transfering heat well. In my case placement of the fan was not ideal and now im getting 57c max with 1.46v and seems to be stable at 4.62 again. Currently testing at Extreme LLC.
> 
> So it appears rev 4.0 have addressed the VRM cooling but a well placed fan is still a must for clocking.
> 
> Also I notice that the RAM voltages on this board undervolt quite a bit for those of you with RAM issues.


In my experience "High/Ultra High" are the only good LLC parameters.
RAM voltage dropping on this boards is common, I have to give mine 0.15v extra to be at 1.500v. No big deal though.


----------



## mus1mus

0.035 on mine.

LLC is dependent. Goal is not to have too much swing.


----------



## vonss

At least for me High/Ultra High gives the least variation in the voltage I manually set in the BIOS. Extreme overvolt a lot.


----------



## aaroc

Why Why!!!!








Just got an email from PPCS that they are out of stock of the EKWB for the ud7 990FX. Why did they had 1 in stock in their new webpage......
Ordered directly from EKWB.


----------



## Jethrodood

Extreme setting is overvolting a bit and pushing the VRM's to 78c so far... But more stable overclocked ! Glad the board is not a wash...


----------



## hurricane28

Hi Gigabyte friends,

I have the UD5 rev 3.0 and i wonder if there is anyone who can point me in the right direction in the bios.

any help would be appreciate


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hi Gigabyte friends,
> 
> I have the UD5 rev 3.0 and i wonder if there is anyone who can point me in the right direction in the bios.
> 
> any help would be appreciate


You've got a new one?

Very cool. Is that the one with UEFI?


----------



## hurricane28

Yep the retail store send me a new one and this one is with the UEFI.

I am not that happy with it because its a pain to overclock and it keeps saying boot failure and i have to go to the bios again to set everything and than it boots properly.
Also the bios is not that great because its not clear how many volts you apply to the CPU so its always a guess..

This morning it didn't boot at all and i had to do an reset cmos and enter bios in order to boot again.


----------



## hurricane28

I figured that the new beta bios is crap on the rev 3.0

I got weird thing like, system doesn't boot, 3dmark firestrike freezes etc. etc. i backed down to the previous one and my problems seems gone for now luckily.

I still find the UEFI bios not that great because it lacks a lot of options. for example, you can't set the CPU/NB voltage and if so you never know how much you put to it.


----------



## Jethrodood

So yeah after playing around with "extreme" LLC ive been having good results.... Come to find out its overvolting 1.43v to 1.51 hahah There is no High setting. Is medium the next one lower in the UD3's case?

Low, standard?, Medium, Xtreme..... wierd...


----------



## vonss

I guess they changed that on the UEFI BIOS. On the Award BIOS it has; Auto, Regular, Medium, High, Ultra High and Extreme.


----------



## Jethrodood

I was wrong the options are Standard, Normal, Low, Medium and Extreme Makes no sense at all. That said extreme is the most stable BUT it overvolts by .05~.06v. If you take that into consideration its a good setting.

Currently im at 4.44ghz
1.4v bios = 1.45 under load
2540NB 1.32v
1691 cas 8 cmd 1 ram

Wouldnt mind a bit more cpu speed but the system is chuggin along pretty good. Probably keep this until more regular 5ghz + PD chips show up.

In my case with active VRM cooling voltage limit is 1.5v actual. Which reallly isnt bad. Didnt realize how bad the vdroop was initially on anything but xtreme is all. So all in all good board just has a bit of a learning curve.


----------



## Chita Gonza

the GA-990FXA-UD5 is mine!!

I hope all bulldozer stuff gets released at E3 like they said originally so I can get this board!


----------



## Alecx

Does the VRM on a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 overheats with a FX8320/8350? (with moderate overclock)


----------



## mus1mus

Guys, it has been believed that CPU-NB Voltage is unknown in Windows right?

Look at this:



To show: Run Stability Test > Preferences > Voltages > Select one of the drop down > Normalize the Graph to 3V to view clearly


----------



## CravinR1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alecx*
> 
> Does the VRM on a Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 overheats with a FX8320/8350? (with moderate overclock)


I've been running my 8350 @ 4.5ghz with 1.45volts since I bought it with no issues


----------



## Alecx

Thanks for the answer. Is the motherboard water-cooled by any chance?


----------



## CravinR1

No additional cooling on the mb (its a v4 though which is the best revision). Just a h80i on the 8350


----------



## Alecx

I see. Thank you. The one I am getting is also a Rev. 4 (as far as I know







)


----------



## CravinR1

Just playing around (not tested prime 95 stable yet)


----------



## hurricane28

hi guys,

I have an weird problem with my Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5 rev 3.0

It seems that it doesn't want to overclock because at any setting in bios i get boot issues and it says boot failure.

When i want to turn my system off it doesn't shut off completely but windows shuts down and the screen too but my components keep running and doesn't shut off completely when overclocked.

If i set everything to stock i don't have these issues.

Very strange, someone has an idea on whats going on?


----------



## KnownDragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> I have an weird problem with my Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5 rev 3.0
> 
> It seems that it doesn't want to overclock because at any setting in bios i get boot issues and it says boot failure.
> 
> When i want to turn my system off it doesn't shut off completely but windows shuts down and the screen too but my components keep running and doesn't shut off completely when overclocked.
> 
> If i set everything to stock i don't have these issues.
> 
> Very strange, someone has an idea on whats going on?


I would say start with a cmos reset. Then if that doesn't work maybe what version of bios are you running. If running the latest maybe something happened during flash. I would try flashing to previous bios then flash the latest if that is the case.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnownDragon*
> 
> I would say start with a cmos reset. Then if that doesn't work maybe what version of bios are you running. If running the latest maybe something happened during flash. I would try flashing to previous bios then flash the latest if that is the case.


thanks for your reply but i already did that.

When i turn the system off in Windows it doesn't shut down my hole system, windows is logging off and my screen is turning off as well but the rest keeps running for some weird reason.

I already flashed the bios to the previous one and it didn't help at all, now i am on the newest bios version and have the same problems.

I will try it again i guess, if that doesn't help i sell this board and buy something else..


----------



## MagusG

Would anyone be able to share the recently pulled F3h beta bios for the v4.0 board? Thanks.
-Mag


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MagusG*
> 
> Would anyone be able to share the recently pulled F3h beta bios for the v4.0 board? Thanks.
> -Mag


I installed it on mine, but haven't really had the chance to compare, it is running flawlessly though for the short amount of time I ran it.


----------



## mrzoo

I Have Same Bios With 990fxa ud3 Rev 4.0 board but I'm having trouble trying to oc my fx8320. I raise multiplier to 22.5 and I fail to boot.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I Have Same Bios With 990fxa ud3 Rev 4.0 board but I'm having trouble trying to oc my fx8320. I raise multiplier to 22.5 and I fail to boot.


I brought my FX-6350 to 5405 MHz in windows, absolutely unstable though, which is what I had before the new bios, though it doesn't crash within 3-5 minutes like it used to before.


----------



## mrzoo

I fail to boot and all I did was turn boost off and changed multiplier


----------



## MagusG

Ok, but can anyone send me the zip of the Bios? It was removed from Gigabytes site last I checked, anyone that can accommodate, please PM me, or post a link or something. Thanks.
-Mag


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I fail to boot and all I did was turn boost off and changed multiplier


Not enough voltage maybe?


----------



## mrzoo

I also tried that I raised to 1.45v and still didn't boot so I put it back down to 1.31


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> I fail to boot and all I did was turn boost off and changed multiplier


Reset CMOS > Reboot to BIOS

Turn OFF Turbo, APM, CNQ, etc in Power Options, Enable High Performance Mode > Reboot to BIOS

Turn LLC Settings to High for a Start > Reboot to BIOS

By Now, Vcore should be equal to your Chip's VID. Set it to a safe Value your Cooling can Handle. Say 1.4V

Set RAM to XMP1 or Profile 1 if available. Set Voltage to rated according to your RAMs. + 0.025 or 1.5V=1.525 ; 1.65V=1.675

Set Multi to 22.5

Reboot to Windows. Try if you can.


----------



## mrzoo

My ram is 1333 what should voltage be


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> My ram is 1333 what should voltage be


Should say on the ram stick themselves. But it's most likely 1.5v.


----------



## Jethrodood

Board looks completely different then the original


----------



## mrzoo

How do I reset cmos


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> How do I reset cmos


You either have pins to reset (findable in the manual) or you can remove the battery and unplug all power going to the motherboard (24-pin and 8/4-pin)


----------



## Manganez72

Hello there, I'm looking for any suggestions/feedbacks about a 2x4GB ddr kit to couple with a 6350
Using a Noctua NHD14 I have to avoid a lot of kits having high heatspreaders ... So I hesitate with these 3 kits :

G.Skill Ares DIMM Kit 8GB, DDR3-1866, CL9-10-9-28 (F3-1866C9D-8GAB) 1.5V (hynix?)

G.Skill Ares DIMM Kit 8GB, DDR3-2133, CL9-11-10-28 (F3-2133C9D-8GAB) 1.65V

Crucial Ballistix Smart Tracer LED DIMM Kit 8GB, DDR3-1866, CL9-9-9-27 (BLT2CP4G3D1869DT2TXRGCEU) 1.5V (micron D9PFJ ?)

Looking for ~2000 CL9

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

No you don't needed to remove
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> How do I reset cmos
> 
> 
> 
> You either have pins to reset (findable in the manual) or you can remove the battery and unplug all power going to the motherboard (24-pin and 8/4-pin)
Click to expand...

anything.

Unplug it from the wall for a few min to give the caps time to drain. But honestly I never needed to either the reset switch or the battery works 100% of the time for me


----------



## Jethrodood

I was just considering some faster ram myself. Did some research and there are no real tangible benefits. So I would recommend 1.5v, low latency over speedy, higher latency 1.65v ram.

I myself run 1600 @1670 cas 8, cmd 1


----------



## Manganez72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> I was just considering some faster ram myself. Did some research and there are no real tangible benefits. So I would recommend 1.5v, low latency over speedy, higher latency 1.65v ram.
> 
> I myself run 1600 @1670 cas 8, cmd 1


Thanks for your input Jethrodood !
After some research it seems both gskill ares kits are fitted with Hynix CFR and as the 2133 is guaranteed CL9 I choosed it depsite 1.65v
Targeting ~2000 @ 1.6v imo


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> Thanks for your input Jethrodood !
> After some research it seems both gskill ares kits are fitted with Hynix CFR and as the 2133 is guaranteed CL9 I choosed it depsite 1.65v
> Targeting ~2000 @ 1.6v imo


Try getting 1600 @ 1.65v with CAS 6


----------



## Manganez72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Try getting 1600 @ 1.65v with CAS 6












Shame my old OCZ can do 17xx CL7-6-6-1T but with 1.92v. It's ok for a deneb chip but wil damage a FX @24/7...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> I was just considering some faster ram myself. Did some research and there are no real tangible benefits. So I would recommend 1.5v, low latency over speedy, higher latency 1.65v ram.
> 
> I myself run 1600 @1670 cas 8, cmd 1


this is a blanket statement that should never be said,

one easy example of "your wrong" is ramdisk, if you use ramdisk, the above statement is easily shown to be wrong.

in most people, yes not very useful, however there are several specific things that high speed ram are quite useful for
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jethrodood*
> 
> I was just considering some faster ram myself. Did some research and there are no real tangible benefits. So I would recommend 1.5v, low latency over speedy, higher latency 1.65v ram.
> 
> I myself run 1600 @1670 cas 8, cmd 1
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input Jethrodood !
> After some research it seems both gskill ares kits are fitted with Hynix CFR and as the 2133 is guaranteed CL9 I choosed it depsite 1.65v
> Targeting ~2000 @ 1.6v imo
Click to expand...

nothing is guaranteed if it is not rated for it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Try getting 1600 @ 1.65v with CAS 6
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shame my old OCZ can do 17xx CL7-6-6-1T but with 1.92v. It's ok for a deneb chip but wil damage a FX @24/7...
Click to expand...

can you please show me some proof of these claims ( the damaging the 8xxx )


----------



## Jethrodood

2133 cas9 is a good choice! If it wouldve helped me to get faster ram thats what i was looking at.

Just as my low latency slow ram clocks much higher at higher latency that should allow you to dabble at slower speeds lower latency if your some reason you can hit the high mark.


----------



## Manganez72

@ Mega Man : I read that on xtremesystems forums and then after some research I found that interesting AMD document AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf


----------



## MagusG

What about 4 sticks of CAS9 2133?, I just got a FXA-UD3 r4.0 and figured I was good to go with 4x4gb of 2133, but apparently didn't do enough research. 4 sticks = 1600, is there something I can do to at least get to 1866 with 4 sticks? I'm sure there it, but I'm new to these monsters. Any feed back? Also, does anyone have a copy of the F3h beta bios for the UD3 r4.0?


----------



## Regnitto

i do........how do i post it on here, or share it another way...........
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MagusG*
> 
> What about 4 sticks of CAS9 2133?, I just got a FXA-UD3 r4.0 and figured I was good to go with 4x4gb of 2133, but apparently didn't do enough research. 4 sticks = 1600, is there something I can do to at least get to 1866 with 4 sticks? I'm sure there it, but I'm new to these monsters. Any feed back? *Also, does anyone have a copy of the F3h beta bios for the UD3 r4.0?*


----------



## Regnitto

Also, if anyone else wants the f3h bios file for the UD3 rev 4.0 pm me your email and I will send you a copy.


----------



## MagusG

I haven't received it quite yet, but I'll throw it on a public gdrive folder when I do.


----------



## Jethrodood

I ran 4 sticks of ram no problems but enjoy the better clocking that comes with 2x4gb sticks. Plus you can do cmd1 easy with 2 sticks.


----------



## MagusG

4 sticks @ what speed and timings? I have 4 stick of G-Skill Sniper Cas 9-11-10-1T DDR3 2133 1.65v. Best I've been able to do with any semblance of stability is 1680 @ 7-8-8-23-1T. 210 bus. And over all cpu speeds of 4.3-4.4. I just want at least tightly timed 1866 and 4.3ghz+. I'm on air, but a LOT of air, the VRM's are not an issue, it's just the delicate balance of the plethora of settings to dial in the right numbers for you and your rig. It's been frustrating, but I'm beginning to get discouraged on the memory thing, if I'd've done my research, I'd have 16gb in a 2x8 w/ plenty of speed. It'll all come together, any advice on getting clocks timings 1866+ with 4 sticks would be awesome.

-MagusG


----------



## MagusG

mb_bios_ga-990fxa-ud3_v.4.x_f3h.zip 2940k .zip file


For anyone else who needed it, here's the beta bios F3h for the UD3 4.0 that was pulled from Gigabytes site earlier this week.

-MagusG


----------



## Jethrodood

1666 cas 8 , 1840 cas 9 . Force CMD rate 2 for 4 sticks. You have to look at your ram volts carefully this board undervolts them alot. Even so usually 4 sticks take more voltage then stock on any board ive messed with. Also the default timings are pretty aggressive on the UD3 so i would recommend setting them manually. I HAD to in order to achieve decent speeds with even just 2 sticks yet alone 4.

Dont forget to find RAM/CPU/NB/FSB limits independently and even then dont assume they will play nice maxed









If it helps im at 1.41v bios xtreme LLC= 1.44v to get 4.5 rock solid
1.31NB to get 2500nb
1.2 or so chipset for 250+ FSB
1.23 for HT
all cpu power functions disabled

these ranges have been similar on other boards as well


----------



## aDyerSituation

So was there ever any magic bios fix for the overheating VRMS on the rev3 of the UD3? Or am I stuck strapping a fan on to my motherboard if I want to OC higher


----------



## Jethrodood

FAN if your gonna overclock! Goes for any board really if you want it to last. FX 6/8core just happen to stress them even more then most! Strategically placed 80mm does wonders.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> @ Mega Man : I read that on xtremesystems forums and then after some research I found that interesting AMD document AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf


that is very old doc FYI

myself and others have pushed more then 1.6-1.7v vcore 24/7 without issue for well over a year


----------



## MagusG

Seriously, what Jethrodood said, strap a fan to your VRM sink. I rigged up the one that comes with the AMD stock cooler and what a difference. I haven't had a chance to see just how much futher I can go, but the temperature difference for the VRM is quite significant.


----------



## taowulf

I manged to get a Thermalright heatsink on mine, no extra fan needed, stays plenty cool now. I should take a pic of it next time I tear stuff down for cleaning.


----------



## MagusG

Since this will be my main machine for while, I wanna get an Enzotech MST-88 for the VRMs, as well as some matching solid copper ones for the NB/SB(low profile for the SB). From reading through this thread(I'm not even close to closed to being finished) the UD3 was lacking in board cooling, but it seems as though while the 4.0 made a big leap, it still wasn't enough, either that or nothing will ever be enough because MOAR HERTZ!


----------



## reeven

Why that bios was pull from site? Any critical bug?


----------



## aDyerSituation

So what are you all using to keep the fan in place? Zip ties? IF you all would post pictures or direct me to where you did that'd be cool


----------



## Manganez72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is very old doc FYI
> 
> myself and others have pushed more then 1.6-1.7v vcore 24/7 without issue for well over a year


Mega, I'm not talking about vcore but vddr, that is strongly recommended to not exceed 1.8v for a 24/7 setup
That doc. is 2 years old


----------



## Duality92

Could someone measure the UD3 rev4s mosfet heatsink lenght (from bolt to bolt)


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Could someone measure the UD3 rev4s mosfet heatsink lenght (from bolt to bolt)


I took the board picture, made 1mm = 1 pixel, measured that way and got 130mm, I'd just like someone to confirm this for me


----------



## Duality92

I know this is a tripple post, but with what I'm seeing, on a UD3, rev 4, you could use *this block* with *this plate* with a little modification to cool the mosfets.


----------



## Jethrodood

Zip ties! I'd measure but one of my rad fans covers the top of it up. The feser 240 is double thick and as such has the fans barely fitting even in a corsair 650D. I am going to order some 20mm and 12mm fans from performancepc soon. I can measure then if no one else does!

Since placing the fan my VRM's never break 70C even on warm days. So i'd say Rev 4 solves the issue.

Hwinfo says mine maxed out at 57C gaming last night for example.


----------



## Slinkey123

Hi guys

I have just got my 990FXA UD3 rev 4 with a 8350 and im having issues ocing past 4.6ghz see below for settings:

Current stable settings:
- 4.6ghz at 1.45v
- 23 x 200 FSB
- LLC set to MEDIUM (seems most consistent?)
- All power save features off
- CPU PLL @ 2.695v
- Load temps around 50c

If I bump up to 4.7ghz i just cant get it stable even at 1.5v+. I'm just wondering do I now need to start fiddling with some other voltages/settings to get this stable? Would you guys recommend upping the NB voltage even though I haven't touched the FSB? If so by how much?

Thanks!


----------



## Regnitto

You will likely start having throttling issues due to VRM temps going higher. What are your VRM temps? consider putting a fan on your VRM area.


----------



## Slinkey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> You will likely start having throttling issues due to VRM temps going higher. What are your VRM temps? consider putting a fan on your VRM area.


Haven't properly checked the temps but it feels dam hot! Almost can't touch it. I'll try my stock AMD fan and botch it on.

I thought the rev 4 solved the VRM heat issues? Maybe not


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I know this is a tripple post, but with what I'm seeing, on a UD3, rev 4, you could use *this block* with *this plate* with a little modification to cool the mosfets.


This is from Gigabyte directly.



Someone else has used that block and plate, all you have to do is file out some parts to fit around the capacitors. I have one sitting in my draw next to me for my very soon copper rebuild.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> You will likely start having throttling issues due to VRM temps going higher. What are your VRM temps? consider putting a fan on your VRM area.


If this is for me, well then,




I just want to lower them more so i don't have to put a fan


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> If this is for me, well then,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just want to lower them more so i don't have to put a fan


yeah, i would put that fan under the wood block instead of over, that should make it more effective, nice setup tho. u make that wood bench case urself?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> yeah, i would put that fan under the wood block instead of over, that should make it more effective, nice setup tho. u make that wood bench case urself?


I did indeed, I'm not even using it anymore lol

edit: oh and I did put that fan under the wood bracket after.


----------



## mrzoo

Damn I still continue to fail boot not sure what's up here are my settings.and volts are set to 1.4







[/URL]


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> Damn I still continue to fail boot not sure what's up here are my settings.and volts are set to 1.4
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


Dude, you can capture BIOS Screenshots by doing these:

1. USB Drive formatted to FAT32
2. Got to BIOS with the Drive inserted to a USB Port.
3. Press F12 on the Screen you want to capture
4. The rest is as easy..

And post them here.
We have a lot of helpful guys who will guide you..


----------



## mrzoo

I view this site and reply via my phone. I so need help tryna figure out what's wrong not sure if it has to do with my board or settings I'm using. My current bios is f3h


----------



## Slinkey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinkey123*
> 
> Haven't properly checked the temps but it feels dam hot! Almost can't touch it. I'll try my stock AMD fan and botch it on.
> 
> I thought the rev 4 solved the VRM heat issues? Maybe not


Well I put my AMD stock cooler on the VRM heat sink and now it doesn't even feel warm to touch! Where as before I couldn't even keep my finger on it.

Still can't get 4.8 stable running around 1.55v bios / 1.53v windows. I haven't touched the FSB clock but do you guys think I need to up the NB core voltage? If so whats the safe limit on these boards? I dont think theres much else I can do to be honest, all my temps are well under the limits. Guess I just got a sucky chip.

Oh and one other question - I notice when I crash in Prime 95 i'll just get a complete system freeze i.e my mouse stops. With my old intel if I got an unstable OC it would usually BSOD or hard reset. Is a system freeze normal for these chips when unstable, or is it my mobo thats crashing out?

Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aDyerSituation*
> 
> So what are you all using to keep the fan in place? Zip ties? IF you all would post pictures or direct me to where you did that'd be cool


make it happen lol

i have used zip ties, set the fan on the GPU wedged it in between my water cooling tubes
other known methods is to screw them in to the HS, sticky tape, velcro
also i know people with 2x40mm fans and it works great, you dont need much, just some airflow
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manganez72*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> that is very old doc FYI
> 
> myself and others have pushed more then 1.6-1.7v vcore 24/7 without issue for well over a year
> 
> 
> 
> Mega, I'm not talking about vcore but vddr, that is strongly recommended to not exceed 1.8v for a 24/7 setup
> That doc. is 2 years old
Click to expand...

so again any real proof ?


----------



## mrzoo

I think it was my bios I re flashed back to f2 from f3h and I was able to boot into windows let's run some test and see I volts at 1.42 multipliers at 22×200 llc at medium all power option disabled except high performance


----------



## mrzoo

Look at these temp I'm running prime 95 small ffts doesn't seem right or safe or is that normal when running this program


----------



## Jethrodood

Id be checking out my heatsink bud!


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> 
> 
> Look at these temp I'm running prime 95 small ffts doesn't seem right or safe or is that normal when running this program


You're going to kill your chip with temps like that.


----------



## aaroc

Im installing ekwb water block for ud7 990fx. I took off the OEM heatsink and some thermal pink gum is left on the borders of both chips. Some pink gum is left over both chips but you only can see it when looking at an angle to see the mirror these chips make.
I cleaned what is possible to remove with isophropil alcohol and cotton sticks for ears.
What is your recommendation? Apply some heat with a heat gun and try with the cotton sticks while hot?
Or just leave what's left there and apply mx4. Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

either or, another way is a tooth brush fyi


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrzoo*
> 
> 
> 
> Look at these temp I'm running prime 95 small ffts doesn't seem right or safe or is that normal when running this program


That may be the reason why you can't boot at your OC. Chip runs hot.

Fill out the rig builder since IIRC, you haven't mentioned a thing about the cooling you are using.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

F12 Key an the BIOS will Save you a screenshot to a USB stick as mentioned before.
Print Screen + Paint App will also be helpful. Or Windows Snipping Tool for taking screenshots within Windows.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Im installing ekwb water block for ud7 990fx. I took off the OEM heatsink and some thermal pink gum is left on the borders of both chips. Some pink gum is left over both chips but you only can see it when looking at an angle to see the mirror these chips make.
> I cleaned what is possible to remove with isophropil alcohol and cotton sticks for ears.
> What is your recommendation? Apply some heat with a heat gun and try with the cotton sticks while hot?
> Or just leave what's left there and apply mx4. Thanks


You would want proper contact with the VRMs. So take all that might create a GAP between the chips and the HS. IIRC, Thermal Pads are better than TIM because of the contact they make for both components.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> either or, another way is a tooth brush fyi


I found a solution: super soft double sheet toilet paper with isophropil alcohol. Move in circles above the chips for 30 seconds and shiny as a mirror. The sides using the same method with the finger nail. The next thing to try on my list was a toothbrush.

Now I'm going to cut the thermal sheet and install the water block


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Im installing ekwb water block for ud7 990fx. I took off the OEM heatsink and some thermal pink gum is left on the borders of both chips. Some pink gum is left over both chips but you only can see it when looking at an angle to see the mirror these chips make.
> I cleaned what is possible to remove with isophropil alcohol and cotton sticks for ears.
> What is your recommendation? Apply some heat with a heat gun and try with the cotton sticks while hot?
> Or just leave what's left there and apply mx4. Thanks


i just used toilet paper then applied pk-2


----------



## aaroc

Did you cut the thermal pad or installed as it came over the vrm?


----------



## Slinkey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinkey123*
> 
> Well I put my AMD stock cooler on the VRM heat sink and now it doesn't even feel warm to touch! Where as before I couldn't even keep my finger on it.
> 
> Still can't get 4.8 stable running around 1.55v bios / 1.53v windows. I haven't touched the FSB clock but do you guys think I need to up the NB core voltage? If so whats the safe limit on these boards? I dont think theres much else I can do to be honest, all my temps are well under the limits. Guess I just got a sucky chip.
> 
> Oh and one other question - I notice when I crash in Prime 95 i'll just get a complete system freeze i.e my mouse stops. With my old intel if I got an unstable OC it would usually BSOD or hard reset. Is a system freeze normal for these chips when unstable, or is it my mobo thats crashing out?
> 
> Thanks!


Any body able to help with my question about NB voltage?

Thanks


----------



## CaelThunderwing

Besides teh obvious gain to comming from the 4100 ($$'s been an issue over the years) any diff on the recent 8370 & 8320E ? the pricepoinst are looking nice atleast and saw back in march Gigabyte released a Bios update for the rev 1.1 990FXA-UD3 to support the 8370 and 8320E


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinkey123*
> 
> Any body able to help with my question about NB voltage?
> 
> Thanks


There's no such thing as Safe Voltage on AMD FX chips.

Just follow the simple rule:

*If You Can Cool It, You Can Clock It.*

I have pushed as much as 1.6V on to the CPU-NB. It will add to your temps so better have the right cooling.

As for your issue of a crash, It might be worth trying to pump up the CPU-NB Voltage to about 1.3ish and your RAM to about +0.025V of the rated value.

Verify your Voltages here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Guys, it has been believed that CPU-NB Voltage is unknown in Windows right?
> 
> Look at this:
> 
> 
> 
> To show: Run Stability Test > Preferences > Voltages > Select one of the drop down > Normalize the Graph to 3V to view clearly


----------



## Mega Man

NB core = CPU/NB you can run it almost the same as vcore, but temps increase quickly

use what you need i have pushed 1.6v fine it was 1.7+ that killed one of my chips on CPU/NB


----------



## aaroc

Leak testing finished. Before pain and burn possibility when touching OEM Mobo heatsink of the UD7 990FX, now with the EKWB super cool even running IBT AVX, not even warm to the touch. Nice







It seams that I bought the last EKWB for the ud7 on EKWB website


----------



## Slinkey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> There's no such thing as Safe Voltage on AMD FX chips.
> 
> Just follow the simple rule:
> 
> *If You Can Cool It, You Can Clock It.*
> 
> I have pushed as much as 1.6V on to the CPU-NB. It will add to your temps so better have the right cooling.
> 
> As for your issue of a crash, It might be worth trying to pump up the CPU-NB Voltage to about 1.3ish and your RAM to about +0.025V of the rated value.
> 
> Verify your Voltages here:


Thanks i'll have a fiddle with NB-core and RAM voltages.


----------



## hurricane28

Hi guys, i still have problems with my Ud5 rev 3.0 i posted earlier.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/10730

Can some one tell me what the heck is going on or is the rev 3.0 crappy like the UD3 rev 3.0?


----------



## hajnalka

Update water cooling 990fxa-ud3 rev3

Not time oc more of 4.7Ghz fx8350

new two ddc pump ver.3.25 dual pump 18W 900liter/hour x2

Old radiator Alphacool xt45 3x120mm fun thickness 46mm
+new Phobya G-Changer 360 V.2 3x120mm fun thickness 60mm

new res Ekwb 5,25 bay

bad connection head to tube this pressure disconnect tube nice water fountain.

What best voltage to cpu and mobo to overclock more at 4.8Ghz and safe not burn motherboard.
VRm temp max 60C this time


----------



## Duality92

I wish I could do that with my rev 4. QQ


----------



## Alxz

work with these cables please !!! I love these EK waterblocks for the UD3, if they weren't utterly sold out i've had an UD3 instead of an UD7


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> work with these cables please !!! I love these EK waterblocks for the UD3, if they weren't utterly sold out i've had an UD3 instead of an UD7


The EKWB for the UD7 is sold out. Not available in all USA stores I searched and I bought the last one from EKWB webstore.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> The EKWB for the UD7 is sold out. Not available in all USA stores I searched and I bought the last one from EKWB webstore.


Probably last one available! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gigabyte-EK-FB-GA-990FXA-UD7-Acetal-EN-Nickel-Motherboard-Water-Block-/261613468246?pt=AU_Components&hash=item3ce960ba56
If anyone interested (?)

I bought mine months ago and it keeps my temps abnormaly low







. But i think my motherboard is going to die soon since it whines when i'm torturing the system with prime95; is this normal?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> Update water cooling 990fxa-ud3 rev3
> 
> Not time oc more of 4.7Ghz fx8350
> 
> new two ddc pump ver.3.25 dual pump 18W 900liter/hour x2
> 
> Old radiator Alphacool xt45 3x120mm fun thickness 46mm
> +new Phobya G-Changer 360 V.2 3x120mm fun thickness 60mm
> 
> new res Ekwb 5,25 bay
> 
> bad connection head to tube this pressure disconnect tube nice water fountain.
> 
> What best voltage to cpu and mobo to overclock more at 4.8Ghz and safe not burn motherboard.
> VRm temp max 60C this time
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why not use the other rad? I mean both rads

You'll get better temps I guess.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alxz*
> 
> Probably last one available! http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gigabyte-EK-FB-GA-990FXA-UD7-Acetal-EN-Nickel-Motherboard-Water-Block-/261613468246?pt=AU_Components&hash=item3ce960ba56
> If anyone interested (?)
> 
> I bought mine months ago and it keeps my temps abnormaly low
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . But i think my motherboard is going to die soon since it whines when i'm torturing the system with prime95; is this normal?


COIL WHINE.

Reading through it, I can get divided opinions.

Worth looking at the chokes though. They are usually hard-coated to prevent that. Worth looking if anything got some cracks or anything.


----------



## Regnitto

just wanted to pop in and show off my setup tonight. what do you guys think?


----------



## Myst-san

Hey, can you help me decide if buying UD5 is worth?

I read that there are some problems with the bios and it is not like I'm going to use all the PCI-EX, it is just I want to have it. I don't think is a good time to buy a FX setup, but is what I can have at the moment.
I'm giving my old PC to my father, because he really needs it and he is making me hurry.


----------



## puts

Hello, what temp is named motherboard temp what is from aida64? what excatly is motherboard temp? is it somekind vrm temp on northbridge or something else? Same temp is hwmonitor too but there its named tmpin0.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Hello, what temp is named motherboard temp what is from aida64? what excatly is motherboard temp? is it somekind vrm temp on northbridge or something else? Same temp is hwmonitor too but there its named tmpin0.


its the IT8 sensor down the south bridge


----------



## Sev501

Just a quick question guys, owning GA-990FX-UD3 Rev 4 here... I can't find any answers in google.

At the backside of the machine in the I/O panel/ports, the optical/SPDF port has a red light on it. Haven't really noticed it before, just now. I don't have a digital sound system, only a pair of headset.
Is that light OK or my motherboard is shot? Just wondering.. I just recently upgraded PSU to a Corsair HX750i.



Thanks!

DSC_0848.jpg 975k .jpg file


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sev501*
> 
> Just a quick question guys, owning GA-990FX-UD3 Rev 4 here... I can't find any answers in google.
> 
> At the backside of the machine in the I/O panel/ports, the optical/SPDF port has a red light on it. Haven't really noticed it before, just now. I don't have a digital sound system, only a pair of headset.
> Is that light OK or my motherboard is shot? Just wondering.. I just recently upgraded PSU to a Corsair HX750i.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> DSC_0848.jpg 975k .jpg file


Optical Output.







Self explanatory.


----------



## Sev501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Optical Output.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Self explanatory.


Err I know, but before I haven't noticed the red glow, is it a warning or something? There's nothing plugged in to it...


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sev501*
> 
> Err I know, but before I haven't noticed the red glow, is it a warning or something? There's nothing plugged in to it...


The light is always on.

If it was off, that would mean the optical port was broken.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> The light is always on.
> 
> If it was off, that would mean the optical port was broken.


This.. ^^^^^


----------



## Sev501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> The light is always on.
> 
> If it was off, that would mean the optical port was broken.


Thank you, hah! Prolly haven't noticed it, but this has been beside me for almost a year now







lolol Thank you for the clarification


----------



## puts

What is tmpin2 in hwmonitor? Northbridge temperatura?


----------



## ultrasparc

What program can be utilized to check the current CPU/NB voltage?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ultrasparc*
> 
> What program can be utilized to check the current CPU/NB voltage?


 You mean besides the BIOS?

http://www.aida64.com/downloads/aida64extreme470exe


----------



## ultrasparc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> You mean besides the BIOS?
> http://www.aida64.com/downloads/aida64extreme470exe


Correct. I set to the NB Core in BIOS to the desired value. I just wanted to double-check it using software in the OS. I actually tried AIDA64. I may have not been looking in the correct spot.. Where can it be located within AIDA64?


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ultrasparc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> You mean besides the BIOS?
> http://www.aida64.com/downloads/aida64extreme470exe
> 
> 
> 
> Correct. I set to the NB Core in BIOS to the desired value. I just wanted to double-check it using software in the OS. I actually tried AIDA64. I may have not been looking in the correct spot.. Where can it be located within AIDA64?
Click to expand...

If you hit the preferences tab and assign one of the monitored voltages to be what you are looking for. it defaults to only your PSU voltage rails and CPU to start with. select CPU/NB in one of the drop downs


----------



## ultrasparc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> If you hit the preferences tab and assign one of the monitored voltages to be what you are looking for. it defaults to only your PSU voltage rails and CPU to start with. select CPU/NB in one of the drop downs


Cool, thanks. I am at work, but I will try it when I get home. Appreciated.


----------



## ultrasparc

Additional question regarding this motherboard.. Is there a walk-through anyone has done or any particular heatsink solution people have recommended for cooling the NB? I have read that the stock heatsink/thermal paste leaves a little to be desired on this board.


----------



## Duality92

never heard of anyone having trouble with the NB temperatures?


----------



## puts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> never heard of anyone having trouble with the NB temperatures?


tmpin2 in hwmonitor is NB temp?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> tmpin2 in hwmonitor is NB temp?


The search function would've proven useful.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1013987/gigabyte-owners-whats-tmpin2-sensor


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ultrasparc*
> 
> Additional question regarding this motherboard.. Is there a walk-through anyone has done or any particular heatsink solution people have recommended for cooling the NB? I have read that the stock heatsink/thermal paste leaves a little to be desired on this board.


Yes, I replace the stock NB HS TIM on every board I use.

secondly I am not a fan of MB Blocks (I water cool) I always spot fan my boards and the VRM/NB area never goes above 40-42C

This was on my previous build, but i am doing the same on the 4 x R290X now being worked on

An 80mm 19dB fan will cool the NB/VRM area very nicely.


----------



## ultrasparc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yes, I replace the stock NB HS TIM on every board I use.
> secondly I am not a fan of MB Blocks (I water cool) I always spot fan my boards and the VRM/NB area never goes above 40-42C
> 
> This was on my previous build, but i am doing the same on the 4 x R290X now being worked on
> An 80mm 19dB fan will cool the NB/VRM area very nicely.


Cool, how did you mount that? Using the motherboard mounts? Any elaboration is appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ultrasparc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Yes, I replace the stock NB HS TIM on every board I use.
> secondly I am not a fan of MB Blocks (I water cool) I always spot fan my boards and the VRM/NB area never goes above 40-42C
> 
> This was on my previous build, but i am doing the same on the 4 x R290X now being worked on
> An 80mm 19dB fan will cool the NB/VRM area very nicely.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cool, how did you mount that? Using the motherboard mounts? Any elaboration is appreciated. Thanks.
Click to expand...

all you have to do is find the right machine screws that fit between the HS fins and screw them in.


----------



## ultrasparc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> all you have to do is find the right machine screws that fit between the HS fins and screw them in.


Ok, thanks.


----------



## reeven

When i bought my fxa ud3 then ud5 both latest revision i notice that from the time i hit power button till bios screen( or LOGO) appear it goes about 15-20seconds. And from there another 15sec till i am in windows.
Double reboot i fixed, i disable XMP memory profile. But cant fix slow boot time till bios screen appear.
Anyone know an fix? I know its gigabyte fault, it does this from first day. My old x58, p45, p35 or old pc with duron,thunder,athlon,venice,etc boot in 3 sec till logo appear, not 15-20 sec.


----------



## puts

I have weird thing aida64 shows vishera full load socket temp 58C but core temps shows 63c but i have heard thats not possible to be core temps bigger than socket temps. So witch one i must belive?


----------



## ultrasparc

Hmm, so I tried adding the NorthBridge VID sensor in AIDA64 with the instructions provided & checking the Sensors.. it doesn't show up.

Would anyone mind posting a screenshot of how to find the current CPU/NB voltage using any program?

Can the current CPU/NB voltage be located in BIOS? When I set NB Core, it's just setting the offset.. +0.05V, etc.


----------



## buttface420

just bought a 990fxa-ud3 , how good of a overclocker is this board? i also bought a 8350 for it and wondering about what i can expect oc wise. i actually dont intend to run it too much more than stock cause all im using it for is gaming


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttface420*
> 
> just bought a 990fxa-ud3 , how good of a overclocker is this board? i also bought a 8350 for it and wondering about what i can expect oc wise. i actually dont intend to run it too much more than stock cause all im using it for is gaming


The revision of the board will matter. I think I had a rev.1 and it could play stable all day with my 8350 at 5ghz. I had to put a small 80mm fan over the VRM heatsink though, those suckers got HOT


----------



## ginger_nuts

Many people claim that they can get a stable 5ghz, not that I don't believe them, but they have never shown proof either when asked.

I believe a more realistic figure is 4.4-4.7ghz.

But I am no OC'n wizard.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Many people claim that they can get a stable 5ghz, not that I don't believe them, but they have never shown proof either when asked.
> 
> I believe a more realistic figure is 4.4-4.7ghz.
> 
> But I am no OC'n wizard.


Best evidence i can provide:


----------



## puts

you didnt made AVX and high or very high test stabilty test.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> you didnt made AVX and high or very high test stabilty test.


Sure, but no game is ever going to come remotely close to what just a standard IBT bench will do. I guess i should say it was "stable enough"


----------



## puts

yes maybe my experiense was with 4ghz overclock without avx high i made stable @ 1.168v but with avx high i got my overclock stable @ 1.2v


----------



## ginger_nuts

Nice work DampMonkey









Like I said, not many are willing to show proof. But you obvisiouly are happy enough, and you sure should be, to show off your great work.

This does get me wondering if my rev1.0 would be better for putting my 8350 on or just keep it on my rev4.0


----------



## buttface420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DampMonkey*
> 
> The revision of the board will matter. I think I had a rev.1 and it could play stable all day with my 8350 at 5ghz. I had to put a small 80mm fan over the VRM heatsink though, those suckers got HOT


the one i ordered is a rev 4 . it has the heatsink pipe added..is that version bad for 8350?


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttface420*
> 
> the one i ordered is a rev 4 . it has the heatsink pipe added..is that version bad for 8350?


I would not say "Bad", it is as good as any other board around for a similar price.

It is just that it seems when Gigabyte done their first release, rev1.0, it was a great board for the price. Now it is not such a stand out product, maybe it was to push more sales for the UD5 and UD7.


----------



## aaronsta1

i can only get 4.4 stable.

if i put it 4.5+ it will boot and everything looks fine.. even can run prime95 for hours with no issues..

but if you run hwinfo64 you will notice that instead of 4.5+ you are only at 3.7 because the board is throttling the cpu, due to over TDP.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> i can only get 4.4 stable.
> 
> if i put it 4.5+ it will boot and everything looks fine.. even can run prime95 for hours with no issues..
> 
> but if you run hwinfo64 you will notice that instead of 4.5+ you are only at 3.7 because the board is throttling the cpu, due to over TDP.


It may be your VRM temps causing the throttling rather than exceeding TDP. I'm assuming this is on your gaming rig with the 8350 and the UD3. Check your VRM temps, and post bios pics please


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> It may be your VRM temps causing the throttling rather than exceeding TDP. I'm assuming this is on your gaming rig with the 8350 and the UD3. Check your VRM temps, and post bios pics please


the vrms are usually in mid 40s, not exceeding upper 50s in full load.
i put a fan on the heatsink.

the cpu is water cooled and at full load never gets above upper 30s.

i did buy some new silicone pads and i was going to redo the vrm sinks, but i dont really think it will do much good.. like i said i think its tdp and not heat.

right now im running at 4.5 @ 1.4v
in prime it throttles a couple cores at 3.4 but i dont think games run the cpu as hard so i dont have any issues.


----------



## DampMonkey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Nice work DampMonkey
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like I said, not many are willing to show proof. But you obvisiouly are happy enough, and you sure should be, to show off your great work.
> 
> This does get me wondering if my rev1.0 would be better for putting my 8350 on or just keep it on my rev4.0


Thanks!







Yea, not everyone will have the same experience as I had; I'm just an example of the possibilities. It took a LOT of time tinkering and testing to get everything settled and happy. And on second glance, it looks like my board was revision 2. Not sure what the differences are there, but it still definitely needed that extra cooling on the VRMs.


----------



## puts

So guys how much cpu-np voltages you need for northbridge 3000mhz? My computer wont boot 3000mhz with cpu-np 1.365v but its stable with 2750mhz NB


----------



## Mega Man

to be honest i dont think i have ever seen one stable at that speed


----------



## reeven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> i can only get 4.4 stable.
> 
> if i put it 4.5+ it will boot and everything looks fine.. even can run prime95 for hours with no issues..
> 
> but if you run hwinfo64 you will notice that instead of 4.5+ you are only at 3.7 because the board is throttling the cpu, due to over TDP.


Its been discussed million of times here.

Enter bios, find HPC mode( high performance mode) set it to ON.
Find APM, set it to off.( if you need TURBO you need to set APM to ON,)

Now your cpu will not throttle at 3.4-3.7 ghz or 1.4ghz based on tdp, throttle, etc

When i bought this mainboard i imediatly notice that on PRIME95 cpu wont stay at STOCK clocks, 4ghz, but at 3.4-3.7ghz.
Solution HPC and APM. With these two, my cpu power raise at about 10-20%


----------



## ultrasparc

When I change the NB Frequency to 2200, 2400, 2600, etc in BIOS.. and boot up to Windows & check the NB Frequency in Windows using CPU-Z or AIDA64.. always says it is around 2000 MHz. Is there some basic fundamental I am missing here or a setting that got reverted in BIOS? I swear I was able to adjust it before.


----------



## Duality92

Why are you changing the NB frenquency anyways?


----------



## ultrasparc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Why are you changing the NB frenquency anyways?


Because I can? One thing I've learned in life is if you don't break stuff & fix it.. you'll never know anything about it.


----------



## Duality92

Oh I know that part, but I'm more leaning towards asking myself if you expect performance gains or something like that? If you're running a thuban, sure, but bulldozers/piledrivers don't benefit from higher NB clocks.


----------



## ultrasparc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Oh I know that part, but I'm more leaning towards asking myself if you expect performance gains or something like that? If you're running a thuban, sure, but bulldozers/piledrivers don't benefit from higher NB clocks.


Bulldozer. Why are people all over the Internet trying to put their CPU/NB on FX chips to 2400-2600.. are they all misinformed (could very well be so)?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ultrasparc*
> 
> Bulldozer. Why are people all over the Internet trying to put their CPU/NB on FX chips to 2400-2600.. are they all misinformed (could very well be so)?


I never did see anyone do this.... My board puts mine at 2600 stock? It's been proven (I should find the source, but I don't have the time to do so, this is just the first thread I found with people saying the same things http://www.overclock.net/t/1418241/overclocking-my-nb-frequency and I just searched for NB frequency bulldozer), that raising NB on bulldozer/piledriver results in a pretty negligible performance increase. Now if you take a Thuban processor, that's another story, Thubans actually benefit from a higher NB frequency.


----------



## puts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Oh I know that part, but I'm more leaning towards asking myself if you expect performance gains or something like that? If you're running a thuban, sure, but bulldozers/piledrivers don't benefit from higher NB clocks.


You get better scores on aida64 memory test write/read/latency and you gain winrar benchmark too. So it gives something but not very much.


----------



## ultrasparc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I never did see anyone do this.... My board puts mine at 2600 stock? It's been proven (I should find the source, but I don't have the time to do so, this is just the first thread I found with people saying the same things http://www.overclock.net/t/1418241/overclocking-my-nb-frequency and I just searched for NB frequency bulldozer), that raising NB on bulldozer/piledriver results in a pretty negligible performance increase. Now if you take a Thuban processor, that's another story, Thubans actually benefit from a higher NB frequency.


Mine puts me at 2000 stock, only reason I want to know why .. when I change it to 2200/2400/2600 & boot to the OS.. always says 2000. A user here has suggested I need to keep cranking up the NB Core voltage until it sticks.. he has suggested that the MB is reverting due to the instability and just booting with the known good frequency.

I swear I'd got it to stick at 2200 & ran SuperPi.. the results were indeed somewhat positive but negligible.. but positive gains were there.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> You get better scores on aida64 memory test write/read/latency and you gain winrar benchmark too. So it gives something but not very much.


If benchmarks is what you're after, sure. I'm just saying that for everyday use the increase in performance is insignificant.

What exactly does the scores of aida64 and winrar translate to in actual computer usage? Is this tiny increase worth the increase stress on your NB (if it dies, you'll need a new board), if so, then by all means, overclock the crap out of your NB.


----------



## puts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> If benchmarks is what you're after, sure. I'm just saying that for everyday use the increase in performance is insignificant.
> 
> What exactly does the scores of aida64 and winrar translate to in actual computer usage? Is this tiny increase worth the increase stress on your NB (if it dies, you'll need a new board), if so, then by all means, overclock the crap out of your NB.


'
-.-
You are so negative


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ultrasparc*
> 
> Mine puts me at 2000 stock, only reason I want to know why .. when I change it to 2200/2400/2600 & boot to the OS.. always says 2000. A user here has suggested I need to keep cranking up the NB Core voltage until it sticks.. he has suggested that the MB is reverting due to the instability and just booting with the known good frequency.
> 
> I swear I'd got it to stick at 2200 & ran SuperPi.. the results were indeed somewhat positive but negligible.. but positive gains were there.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> '
> -.-
> You are so negative


Not really, I overclock my NB a crap load for benchmarks, but you still haven't told me what you're overclocking your NB for. If it's for benchmarks like I already said, do it. If it's for everyday usage, I wouldn't and don't.

For overclocking your NB you can follow the same method as you would do with a processor. Raise voltage, raise frequency, check temps, rinse and repeat. If you check what kind of NB your board has and what temps it can handle, you can run it at that temperature for benchmarks easily, they always put a kind of safety factors on temps, you can sometimes go a bit above (although I'm not suggesting it) for short periods, not extended usage or really long benchmarks.

A reason your NB might be downclocking to 2000 again, might just be something you didn't/did enable/disable in your BIOS. Save your current bios profile to a slot, then revert to stock and try again, if it doesn't work you can always load your other profile again. Also, if you want to see your NB frequency capacity, you can lower you multiplier to about 20x and put 1.3v in it to make sure it's stable and won't be a limiting factor in your NB overclock. Same with RAM, put it to a low multiplier so it isn't a limiting factor either. On top of that, only use 1 stick of ram when trying to find stable clocks/voltages for you NB. You can also raise your FSB above 200 if you're trying for a higher clock.

That better for an answer?


----------



## ultrasparc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Not really, I overclock my NB a crap load for benchmarks, but you still haven't told me what you're overclocking your NB for. If it's for benchmarks like I already said, do it. If it's for everyday usage, I wouldn't and don't.
> 
> For overclocking your NB you can follow the same method as you would do with a processor. Raise voltage, raise frequency, check temps, rinse and repeat. If you check what kind of NB your board has and what temps it can handle, you can run it at that temperature for benchmarks easily, they always put a kind of safety factors on temps, you can sometimes go a bit above (although I'm not suggesting it) for short periods, not extended usage or really long benchmarks.
> 
> A reason your NB might be downclocking to 2000 again, might just be something you didn't/did enable/disable in your BIOS. Save your current bios profile to a slot, then revert to stock and try again, if it doesn't work you can always load your other profile again. Also, if you want to see your NB frequency capacity, you can lower you multiplier to about 20x and put 1.3v in it to make sure it's stable and won't be a limiting factor in your NB overclock. Same with RAM, put it to a low multiplier so it isn't a limiting factor either. On top of that, only use 1 stick of ram when trying to find stable clocks/voltages for you NB. You can also raise your FSB above 200 if you're trying for a higher clock.
> 
> That better for an answer?


Yes, thank you. I have asked for this other tidbit previously with no luck as well.. Where can I find the current CPU/NB voltage either in the BIOS or OS (3rd party software) -- When I set the NB Core voltage offset (+/-) in BIOS, I have no way of confirming what its set voltage is.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Oh I know that part, but I'm more leaning towards asking myself if you expect performance gains or something like that? If you're running a thuban, sure, but bulldozers/piledrivers don't benefit from higher NB clocks.


Why. Why do people keep saying this

Do you see thuban level of increase? No, do you see increase? And for someone nagging performed out just it worth it? yes

One of many things that do benifit. Ram disk.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> If benchmarks is what you're after, sure. I'm just saying that for everyday use the increase in performance is insignificant.
> 
> What exactly does the scores of aida64 and winrar translate to in actual computer usage? Is this tiny increase worth the increase stress on your NB (if it dies, you'll need a new board), if so, then by all means, overclock the crap out of your NB.
> 
> 
> 
> '
> -.-
> You are so negative
Click to expand...

Wow. The nb you can oc is not on your board first of all nb core aka cpu/nb (named so on almost all other board manufactures) and has not been on the board for quite a while. NB is on the board cpu/nb is on your cpu as it is the memory controller.

When running higher speed mem you have to oc it I and many others run 2400+ ram and most of those run 2600 cpu/nb I run 2700 on one rig and 2600 on the other.

All 24/7 and have been for almost since the 83xxs came out so please tell me how it kills anything


----------



## puts

Can i use 4 120mm fan in cpu_fan socket? i now use 2 fans cpu socket one is for exhaust and one for cpu cooler but i want put my two top case fans too because they are pretty loud and i cant get work speedfan or easytune6 with sys_fan1 socket and my fans are PWN 4pin and i enebled in bios sys_fan1 settings and tried with disabled settings too and wont work








And i dont want use hardware fan controllers i like how cpu_fan socket regulate automaitcaly settings


----------



## Duality92

I wouldn't put more than 2 fans on a fan header.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Can i use 4 120mm fan in cpu_fan socket? i now use 2 fans cpu socket one is for exhaust and one for cpu cooler but i want put my two top case fans too because they are pretty loud and i cant get work speedfan or easytune6 with sys_fan1 socket and my fans are PWN 4pin and i enebled in bios sys_fan1 settings and tried with disabled settings too and wont work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i dont want use hardware fan controllers i like how cpu_fan socket regulate automaitcaly settings


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I wouldn't put more than 2 fans on a fan header.


really depends on the fan...

MOST fan headers are rated to 1a,

size does not matter power draw does

please know that most fans will pull ~ double the rated amps at start up and plan accordingly !!!

@Duality92

as to proof

lets see your memory benches,

and if you use maxxmem i will laugh


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



these minor differences were just by adj voltage to give you an idea of the range, feel free to post yours @ stock cpu/nb

all done iirc @ 2750 cpu/nb 4.8ghz @ 2400 cl10


----------



## Duality92

my rams 1600.... I don't bench my memory.... I just overclock it for fun.


----------



## mus1mus

I should just say,

FSB, Memory and CPU-NB OC are beneficial than not touching them at all. Aida64 aside, Winrar proves that. I mean, aren't you guys do Unrar-ing, Unzipping large compressed files or creating compressed file format files on a given day to show how it could save you a bit less time?.









Windows responsiveness can just be psychological but, they help nonetheless.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I should just say,
> 
> FSB, Memory and CPU-NB OC are beneficial than not touching them at all. Aida64 aside, Winrar proves that. I mean, aren't you guys do Unrar-ing, Unzipping large compressed files or creating compressed file format files on a given day to show how it could save you a bit less time?.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Windows responsiveness can just be psychological but, they help nonetheless.


This is what I'm saying, people are getting so defensive. I'm just saying actual increase in performance is very small. I never said it does NOT increase anything and is absolutely worthless.


----------



## puts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I should just say,
> 
> FSB, Memory and CPU-NB OC are beneficial than not touching them at all. Aida64 aside, Winrar proves that. I mean, aren't you guys do Unrar-ing, Unzipping large compressed files or creating compressed file format files on a given day to show how it could save you a bit less time?.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Windows responsiveness can just be psychological but, they help nonetheless.


Memory overclocking helps gaming to raise minimal fps that makes gameplay smoother
http://www.overclock.net/t/1366657/ddr3-1600-vs-2133-is-there-a-difference-in-game


----------



## mus1mus

I must add though, my system craps out at X23 multi for the CPU no matter what Voltage. (dog chip)

FSB helps me to gain up to 4.8 instead of 4.6 by multi.

So yeah


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I must add though, my system craps out at X23 multi for the CPU no matter what Voltage. (dog chip)
> 
> FSB helps me to gain up to 4.8 instead of 4.6 by multi.
> 
> So yeah


Why which? So far I've brought mine to 26, but I never tried higher. After this foldathon, I'm planning to try it though, see how far I can get my multiplier to. I can push a ton of voltage through my chip too, it's cooled by 560mm worth of radiators in push/pull when I let my video card idle.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Why which? So far I've brought mine to 26, but I never tried higher. After this foldathon, I'm planning to try it though, see how far I can get my multiplier to. I can push a ton of voltage through my chip too, it's cooled by 560mm worth of radiators in push/pull when I let my video card idle.










720mm here.. the chip requires 1.625 Vcore at 4.8.. I can get it to 65s at 26 ambient with my set-up.

My brother is rebuilding the rig now in a bigger case. And much better cooling. 480 + 360 at least of 45mm rads.

No, there's no such thing as overkill cooling for these chips..


----------



## Duality92

What chip exactly? 8350?

I'm on a 6350, but I can get 5.2 on 1.52-1.54v depending on what I plan running. I've brought it to 5.4 GHz (235x23) for validation only, I was only pushing 1.56v in BIOS. At 1.6+ I'm sure I can get it stable at 5.4.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> What chip exactly? 8350?
> 
> I'm on a 6350, but I can get 5.2 on 1.52-1.54v depending on what I plan running. I've brought it to 5.4 GHz (235x23) for validation only, I was only pushing 1.56v in BIOS. At 1.6+ I'm sure I can get it stable at 5.4.


An 8320.

Im actually thinking about getting a new chip.

Might get lucky. But Im saving for a 5930K lol


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 720mm here.. the chip requires 1.625 Vcore at 4.8.. I can get it to 65s at 26 ambient with my set-up.
> 
> My brother is rebuilding the rig now in a bigger case. And much better cooling. 480 + 360 at least of 45mm rads.
> 
> No, there's no such thing as overkill cooling for these chips..


WOW 1.625 for only 4.8Ghz? That's one dud of a chip than..

Mine does 5Ghz at 1.488 vcore. I must say that it depends on motherboard because on my older UD5 i needed 1.55 to be 4.8Ghz stable and now with the Sabertooth i need 1.475 vcore to be 4.8Ghz 24/7 stable.

Actually i do not belong in this thread anymore since i no longer own an Gigabyte board anymore


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> WOW 1.625 for only 4.8Ghz? That's one dud of a chip than..
> 
> Mine does 5Ghz at 1.488 vcore. I must say that it depends on motherboard because on my older UD5 i needed 1.55 to be 4.8Ghz stable and now with the Sabertooth i need 1.475 vcore to be 4.8Ghz 24/7 stable.
> 
> Actually i do not belong in this thread anymore since i no longer own an Gigabyte board anymore


I know. I know.

Heck, boost in performance was biggest at this point though. No shame on that.

Besides, I enjoyed pushing this baby. Might grab another and hope to be lucky though. For the epeeen!


----------



## Slinkey123

Yup I think mine would probably require close to 1.6v to get 4.8ghz. I got to 1.55v at 4.8ghz but it still wasn't stable and my H100i couldn't handle the heat. Still though I'm happy with 4.6ghz at 1.475v.

I think the newer 8350 aren't as good as the older ones. Guessing AMD are taking the good chips and binning them for the 9590 chips? Who knows.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinkey123*
> 
> Yup I think mine would probably require close to 1.6v to get 4.8ghz. I got to 1.55v at 4.8ghz but it still wasn't stable and my H100i couldn't handle the heat. Still though I'm happy with 4.6ghz at 1.475v.
> 
> I think the newer 8350 aren't as good as the older ones. Guessing AMD are taking the good chips and binning them for the 9590 chips? Who knows.


wow that's a lot of volts for 4.8ghz.

My previous chip was dead so i returned it and when i put the new one in my PC booted and was running smooth like it should. Mine has a new batch and its a good clocker, i can boot and bench it at 5.4ghz.

I think you're right at the binning because they can sell the same exact chip that clocks better for an higher price, that sounds like they screw the customer i mean, its not fair that one have an 8350 that can clock at 5.1ghz and be stable and the other one cannot even get 4.8ghz stable..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinkey123*
> 
> Yup I think mine would probably require close to 1.6v to get 4.8ghz. I got to 1.55v at 4.8ghz but it still wasn't stable and my H100i couldn't handle the heat. Still though I'm happy with 4.6ghz at 1.475v.
> 
> I think the newer 8350 aren't as good as the older ones. Guessing AMD are taking the good chips and binning them for the 9590 chips? Who knows.


I can relate to that mate. My 720mm total rad space can't cope either at 1.625








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> wow that's a lot of volts for 4.8ghz.
> 
> My previous chip was dead so i returned it and when i put the new one in my PC booted and was running smooth like it should. Mine has a new batch and its a good clocker, i can boot and bench it at 5.4ghz.
> 
> I think you're right at the binning because they can sell the same exact chip that clocks better for an higher price, that sounds like they screw the customer i mean, its not fair that one have an 8350 that can clock at 5.1ghz and be stable and the other one cannot even get 4.8ghz stable..


naah, all part of the game.

Output sometimes matter less. What comes in between, defines the fun.


----------



## Slinkey123

To be honest I haven't really tried using the FSB to OC yet so that could be my issue. I know some people have managed to push past the 4.6ghz wall using fsb. I've had a quick play around but didn't really get any where at all - couldn't even post at all at 4.5ghz

Has any one had much luck here OCing with the FSB on the UD3? If so what settings did you guys use?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinkey123*
> 
> To be honest I haven't really tried using the FSB to OC yet so that could be my issue. I know some people have managed to push past the 4.6ghz wall using fsb. I've had a quick play around but didn't really get any where at all - couldn't even post at all at 4.5ghz
> 
> Has any one had much luck here OCing with the FSB on the UD3? If so what settings did you guys use?


I used to run 225*23 (on FX-6350) daily for 5175 MHz and I've benched at 235*23 or 5405 MHz. I haven't tried yet with this new F3H BIOS yet though. I can easily boot up to 26x multiplier so theoretically I could run at least 6110 MHz, but of course I don't have the cooling needed for that clock xD


----------



## buttface420

so i just got my 990fxa-ud3 rev.4 and while gaming battlefield 4 the north bridge temps are at around 60-62c , while my cpu is only around at 52-54c. (stock heatsink 8350). i tried adding an additional 70mm 9 blade fan on top the northbridge and it made it hotter 65c (back down to 60-62 when removed). how do you guys cool this thing and is that temp even bad?


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttface420*
> 
> so i just got my 990fxa-ud3 rev.4 and while gaming battlefield 4 the north bridge temps are at around 60-62c , while my cpu is only around at 52-54c. (stock heatsink 8350). i tried adding an additional 70mm 9 blade fan on top the northbridge and it made it hotter 65c (back down to 60-62 when removed). how do you guys cool this thing and is that temp even bad?


im wondering if your northbridge isnt heating up due to your vrms..

i put a fan on my vrm sink, but they are connected..

altho 60c while playing games doesnt sound too hot for me.. i think mine is mid 50s.. i can run some tests.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttface420*
> 
> so i just got my 990fxa-ud3 rev.4 and while gaming battlefield 4 the north bridge temps are at around 60-62c , while my cpu is only around at 52-54c. (stock heatsink 8350). i tried adding an additional 70mm 9 blade fan on top the northbridge and it made it hotter 65c (back down to 60-62 when removed). how do you guys cool this thing and is that temp even bad?


That temps is perfectly fine, don't worry about it.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttface420*
> 
> so i just got my 990fxa-ud3 rev.4 and while gaming battlefield 4 the north bridge temps are at around 60-62c , while my cpu is only around at 52-54c. (stock heatsink 8350). i tried adding an additional 70mm 9 blade fan on top the northbridge and it made it hotter 65c (back down to 60-62 when removed). how do you guys cool this thing and is that temp even bad?


after about 20 min of sinper elite 3.


----------



## buttface420

yeah your temps are wayyyy lower than mine.....


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttface420*
> 
> yeah your temps are wayyyy lower than mine.....


yeah id look at replacing that stock cooler asap.


----------



## Slinkey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *buttface420*
> 
> yeah your temps are wayyyy lower than mine.....


Mine was hitting the same temps as yours, I put the stock AMD heatsink fan on my VRM's and the max temp im now getting is around 50c.


----------



## Slinkey123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I used to run 225*23 (on FX-6350) daily for 5175 MHz and I've benched at 235*23 or 5405 MHz. I haven't tried yet with this new F3H BIOS yet though. I can easily boot up to 26x multiplier so theoretically I could run at least 6110 MHz, but of course I don't have the cooling needed for that clock xD


Cool ok so do you keep the NB and HT clocks at stock? Or do you have them set to auto so that they change with the FSB clock?

p.s sorry for double post.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinkey123*
> 
> Cool ok so do you keep the NB and HT clocks at stock? Or do you have them set to auto so that they change with the FSB clock?
> 
> p.s sorry for double post.


Yup. You keep adjusting them to make sure they run closest to their rated speed while having an FSB overclock.


----------



## SpykeZ

When overclocking in our UEFI Bios, the change to the voltage you make don't show up on the home page of the bios as changed.

So what I need to know, is how the voltage calculations work.

Lets say the stock is like 1.368.

When changing the voltage it starts out at -.### do I subtract that number from my voltage meaning it's going lower? Cause if you go far enough then it goes to +.###

Dunno why it was so hard to show the changed voltage value IN the bios -.-

The quicker the reply, the better, thanks guys


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> When overclocking in our UEFI Bios, the change to the voltage you make don't show up on the home page of the bios as changed.
> 
> So what I need to know, is how the voltage calculations work.
> 
> Lets say the stock is like 1.368.
> 
> When changing the voltage it starts out at -.### do I subtract that number from my voltage meaning it's going lower? Cause if you go far enough then it goes to +.###
> 
> Dunno why it was so hard to show the changed voltage value IN the bios -.-
> 
> The quicker the reply, the better, thanks guys


It all depends what you LLC is set to.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> When overclocking in our UEFI Bios, the change to the voltage you make don't show up on the home page of the bios as changed.
> 
> So what I need to know, is how the voltage calculations work.
> 
> Lets say the stock is like 1.368.
> 
> When changing the voltage it starts out at -.### do I subtract that number from my voltage meaning it's going lower? Cause if you go far enough then it goes to +.###
> 
> Dunno why it was so hard to show the changed voltage value IN the bios -.-
> 
> The quicker the reply, the better, thanks guys


its pretty easy..
you have a normal voltage.. on my board with turbo disabled its 1.3000
then you add the offset +0.1 or whatever you need to run your OC..
this will make 1.4 in windows..

LLC adds to this if you have it set to extreme.. i set mine to medium.. it only adds a little.

one thing to note you can type in the number.. dont have to go all the way around


----------



## SpykeZ

Ya I figured it out. I had to scroll through all the -.###s to get to the +.### to add to voltage lol. It's still stupid that it doesn't update the voltage in the bios in real time without having to choose the only option of saving which exits you from the bios.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Ya I figured it out. I had to scroll through all the -.###s to get to the +.### to add to voltage lol. It's still stupid that it doesn't update the voltage in the bios in real time without having to choose the only option of saving which exits you from the bios.


you can just type in the number.. you dont have to use the + and - to scroll through.

the reason it doesnt update in real time is the voltage doesnt actually change until you save and restart.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> When overclocking in our UEFI Bios, the change to the voltage you make don't show up on the home page of the bios as changed.
> 
> So what I need to know, is how the voltage calculations work.
> 
> Lets say the stock is like 1.368.
> 
> When changing the voltage it starts out at -.### do I subtract that number from my voltage meaning it's going lower? Cause if you go far enough then it goes to +.###
> 
> Dunno why it was so hard to show the changed voltage value IN the bios -.-
> 
> The quicker the reply, the better, thanks guys


First up, every chip has unique VID. (turn off turbo and power saving options or simply use a software to detect the VID)

Add the Offset, (I said ADD as adding a NEGATIVE Offset will of course subtract that







) Add in the effect of LLC.

Seeing you are on a UD3, you cannot just calculate the final value of the Vcore, for example, without observing hopw it reacts to certain changes with the LLC.

You need to spend a little more time figuring out how LLC affects the voltages.

Now depends on your revision, UD3 rev3 for example, (my only giga experience btw) even with the lowest LLC Setting always add a few more volts that what is calculated.

i.e Offset at 0.100 from a VID of 1.337V produces 1.475V at load at Regular LLC.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> you can just type in the number.. you dont have to use the + and - to scroll through.
> 
> the reason it doesnt update in real time is the voltage doesnt actually change until you save and restart.


Depends on the board. rev 3 are purely offset.


----------



## SpykeZ

Uhhhh...lol..where do you see UD3 at? I got the UD5, none the less, I'm back to 4.8 GHz

Not really sure it's worth hitting 5 again.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Uhhhh...lol..where do you see UD3 at? I got the UD5, none the less, I'm back to 4.8 GHz
> 
> Not really sure it's worth hitting 5 again.


Mistaken it on one of your projects then..

Haha


----------



## SpykeZ

Oh ya I almost caught that board on fire from pulling in too many volts lol


----------



## hazard99

A lot of this is good information. Actually very helpful. I have a post in another thread regarding the oc on the ud3. So ill be going over this trying to make heads or tails of it.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hazard99*
> 
> A lot of this is good information. Actually very helpful. I have a post in another thread regarding the oc on the ud3. So ill be going over this trying to make heads or tails of it.


Don't go above 1.55V on that board lol


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Don't go above 1.55V on that board lol


I do 1.6v on my rev 4 ud3?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I do 1.6v on my rev 4 ud3?


Than its an disaster waiting to happen, i should know because i had the UD3 and i blew up the vrm's due to too much voltage.

Later i bought the UD5 and it sees it could hold up against the Asus sabertooth but the glory was short because it decided to die on me after one year.. got another one rev 3.0 its was such a horrible board and bios that i decided to go with the Sabertooth and for now its being a much better choice for high overclocks.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I do 1.6v on my rev 4 ud3?


well, you're also running a 6350. 8xxx are power hogs


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Than its an disaster waiting to happen, i should know because i had the UD3 and i blew up the vrm's due to too much voltage.
> 
> Later i bought the UD5 and it sees it could hold up against the Asus sabertooth but the glory was short because it decided to die on me after one year.. got another one rev 3.0 its was such a horrible board and bios that i decided to go with the Sabertooth and for now its being a much better choice for high overclocks.


Hmmmm, QQ then. I might just have to invest in a new motherboard then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> well, you're also running a 6350. 8xxx are power hogs


Well HWinfo64 shows VRMs are putting out around 220W, I also run it at around 5500 for benching lol


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Hmmmm, QQ then. I might just have to invest in a new motherboard then.
> Well HWinfo64 shows VRMs are putting out around 220W, I also run it at around 5500 for benching lol


Well that depends on what you want to be honest, and your needs.

the draw back from the Sabertooth is that the onboard audio is rubbish compared to the UD5 and music is a big thing for me so that's a big bummer for me.

for purer overclocking and good scores and stability it begins with the Sabertooth and if you want to push any further the crosshair formula z is the best choice.

I got a refund of the retail shop i got the UD5 from because its utter crap and it died on me in the first week.. from that money i bought the Sabertooth and as a matter a fact the Sabertooth was even cheaper than the UD5 here so its a win win situation for me.

I still need an better sound card tho but for the rest i am very impressed by what this board can do.


----------



## hazard99

I don't even think I got the cooling for that. I am already hitting 60c while running Ibt avx on very high setting. I just can't oc very much using the multiplier. I'm actually running prime95 test to verify stability at 4.4 temps look about 54c


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Hmmmm, QQ then. I might just have to invest in a new motherboard then.
> Well HWinfo64 shows VRMs are putting out around 220W, I also run it at around 5500 for benching lol


where's it show VRM power in that?


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> where's it show VRM power in that?


I (poorly) circled the VRM sensor readings in HWinfo64 for ya!


----------



## SpykeZ

that's gay, doesn't show up on mine.


----------



## hurricane28

I never seen readings on Gigabyte board like that before and i owned 2 of them..


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> that's gay, doesn't show up on mine.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I never seen readings on Gigabyte board like that before and i owned 2 of them..


i just got a new update for hwinfo....but i've always had those vrm sensors on my ud3 rev4.0. I like that it shows the VRTemp sensors there too


----------



## Regnitto

Well, I just cut a hole in my case.









I made a mounting location for a 140mm fan behind my CPU backplate/VRM. So far testing with IBT CPU is 4c cooler, VRM is 12c cooler than without the fan


----------



## SpykeZ

Ugh, I gotta go through my settings again and see what messed up.

Computer doesn't shut down properly anymore, (main system goes down but fans keep going) and starts up weird.

Why the hell does AMD need all these damn power saving modes. There's like freaking 6 of them now.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Ugh, I gotta go through my settings again and see what messed up.
> 
> Computer doesn't shut down properly anymore, (main system goes down but fans keep going) and starts up weird.
> 
> Why the hell does AMD need all these damn power saving modes. There's like freaking 6 of them now.


I had the same thing, turned out to be the PSU that was burned out.

I had this with the UD5, if i were you i would check your CPU 2x 4-pin connection cable. The vrm's tin to get so hot that it can actually melt the connector to the motherboard socket...


----------



## hazard99

When over clocked and you still use any of the down clocking features or will it throttle the cpu into the ground?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hazard99*
> 
> When over clocked and you still use any of the down clocking features or will it throttle the cpu into the ground?


You can actually.. just make sure you have actually verified your OC settings before doing so.

Run IBT AVX so your OC is assured to be stable. After the OC has been stabilised and tried, tested, you can enable all power saving options.


----------



## hazard99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You can actually.. just make sure you have actually verified your OC settings before doing so.
> 
> Run IBT AVX so your OC is assured to be stable. After the OC has been stabilised and tried, tested, you can enable all power saving options.


IBT has been seeming inconsistant for me. Ive had it pass and fail at various times. I was shooting for 4.5 but 4.4 seems more comfortable.

And It seems I can run prime95 for a reasonable amount of time though during the day the heat of prime is just way to hot for my hyper 212evo.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hazard99*
> 
> IBT has been seeming inconsistant for me. Ive had it pass and fail at various times. I was shooting for 4.5 but 4.4 seems more comfortable.
> 
> And It seems I can run prime95 for a reasonable amount of time though during the day the heat of prime is just way to hot for my hyper 212evo.


Ohh man, lucky you. That evo can just give you that much headroom for an OC.

Prime Blend proves to be less demanding. But yeah. I'll stick to what I said.

Be sure you are stable and throttle-free before enabling Power Saving Features.


----------



## gringott

Has anybody tried the new beta bios for the UD7 yet? If so, impressions please.


----------



## aaroc

Where do you recommend to put some temperature probes on the UD7? I have an AquaComputer Aquaero 6XT that has 8 connector for temp probes. Thanks!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gringott*
> 
> Has anybody tried the new beta bios for the UD7 yet? If so, impressions please.


For me it had the same behavior that the last stable BIOS. Need to use High LLC to finish IBT AVX correctly on the FX 9590, C state must be disabled to avoid freezes, didnt start 32GB faster than 1333. Tested during two days period on secondary UD7.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Where do you recommend to put some temperature probes on the UD7? I have an AquaComputer Aquaero 6XT that has 8 connector for temp probes. Thanks!
> For me it had the same behavior that the last stable BIOS. Need to use High LLC to finish IBT AVX correctly on the FX 9590, C state must be disabled to avoid freezes, didnt start 32GB faster than 1333. Tested during two days period on secondary UD7.


you had it all blocked right?

If you do, you're better off getting the probes to detect Air Out the rads, Water-In and Out your Rads.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Where do you recommend to put some temperature probes on the UD7? I have an AquaComputer Aquaero 6XT that has 8 connector for temp probes. Thanks!
> For me it had the same behavior that the last stable BIOS. Need to use High LLC to finish IBT AVX correctly on the FX 9590, C state must be disabled to avoid freezes, didnt start 32GB faster than 1333. Tested during two days period on secondary UD7.


1 Behind CPU
2 South Bridge
3 Near VRM waterblock
4 GPU
5 HDD
6 IT8 sensor chip!


----------



## ~kRon1k~

the ud5 is supposed to run 3 7970s at x16/x16/x8 pcie speeds, correct? because mine run at x16/x8/x8 and I dont know why









edit: i see now that with three cards it is 16/8/8. oh well lol


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *~kRon1k~*
> 
> the ud5 is supposed to run 3 7970s at x16/x16/x8 pcie speeds, correct? because mine run at x16/x8/x8 and I dont know why
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: i see now that with three cards it is 16/8/8. oh well lol


i dont think modern cards are fast enough to benefit from 16 vs 8


----------



## gringott

aaroc, just wanted to let you know I added some memory to my UD7; it starts at 1600MHz in the FC bios, and I just flashed to FDe; same 1600MHz.


----------



## fidof650

HELP!!!
Came home today to find my fans spinning (gpu fan and h100 cpu cooler circulating and fans spinning as well as all case fans and leds on) but all three monitors dark and post code 88. I rebooted by turning the psu off then on again and instantly got the same result. No post attempt, no power cycling, post code 88 (it seems like the post code LEDa are just on because they have power rather than actually indicating anything) just everything lit up instantly without any attempt to actually post. Have tried to hold the power button with the power disconnected to fully drain the board before retrying but not much else.
Figured I'd ask the question before I really dig in and create potentially unnecessary work for myself.
Specs are in my sig under Chupacabra.

You would think that as the OP of this thread I would be able to resolve this on my own but, this rig had been a rock solid 24/7 build for over 3 years now and I've been spoiled with no need for maintenance and have been focused on other stuff so, despite having once known this board inside and out, I've forgotten everything I once knew and have returned home for help (in short, I got dumb!).

BTW: The GA-890fxa-ud5 build is also a 24/7 rig and still running strong. In fact, I'm posting this entry on it now so, I'm surprised my newer rig that has gotten more tlc (cleaned periodically with the air compressor) is the one causing me grief.

Where do I start?

~fidof650


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650*
> 
> HELP!!!
> Came home today to find my fans spinning (gpu fan and h100 cpu cooler circulating and fans spinning as well as all case fans and leds on) but all three monitors dark and post code 88. I rebooted by turning the psu off then on again and instantly got the same result. No post attempt, no power cycling, post code 88 (it seems like the post code LEDa are just on because they have power rather than actually indicating anything) just everything lit up instantly without any attempt to actually post. Have tried to hold the power button with the power disconnected to fully drain the board before retrying but not much else.
> Figured I'd ask the question before I really dig in and create potentially unnecessary work for myself.
> Specs are in my sig under Chupacabra.
> 
> You would think that as the OP of this thread I would be able to resolve this on my own but, this rig had been a rock solid 24/7 build for over 3 years now and I've been spoiled with no need for maintenance and have been focused on other stuff so, despite having once known this board inside and out, I've forgotten everything I once knew and have returned home for help (in short, I got dumb!).
> 
> BTW: The GA-890fxa-ud5 build is also a 24/7 rig and still running strong. In fact, I'm posting this entry on it now so, I'm surprised my newer rig that has gotten more tlc (cleaned periodically with the air compressor) is the one causing me grief.
> 
> Where do I start?
> 
> ~fidof650


id start by taking the ram out one at a time.

the one time i had a bad ram module something similar happened to me.. taking the bad one out let the computer boot up.


----------



## jimdotdev

I just repaired a laptop that needed a new CMOS battery with the same discription. Just a thought because that has never happened to me before, and it sent me for a loop.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> id start by taking the ram out one at a time.
> 
> the one time i had a bad ram module something similar happened to me.. taking the bad one out let the computer boot up.


No dice.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimdotdev*
> 
> I just repaired a laptop that needed a new CMOS battery with the same discription. Just a thought because that has never happened to me before, and it sent me for a loop.


Craps... but we can now rule out resetting the CMOS as well.

Who's the next shooter?

~fidof650


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gringott*
> 
> aaroc, just wanted to let you know I added some memory to my UD7; it starts at 1600MHz in the FC bios, and I just flashed to FDe; same 1600MHz.


Thanks a lot for letting me know. Can you share the brand, model and size of your ram modules?


----------



## gringott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Thanks a lot for letting me know. Can you share the brand, model and size of your ram modules?


Mushkin Enhanced Blackline 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model 997124R

I started the board back in December with one kit, I just added another. So 32GB. It has always started at 1600.


----------



## gringott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650*
> 
> No dice.
> Craps... but we can now rule out resetting the CMOS as well.
> 
> Who's the next shooter?
> 
> ~fidof650


I had a situation like yours on a different mother board a couple of years ago, power was on, etc, but wouldn't do squat. I went through all the troubleshooting steps, including using a known good power supply, removing all the cards, known good minimal memory, even putting in a very low end known good video card.
Nothing worked. Turned out to be a bad capacitor. Replaced it and ran the board to this day.

The first UD7 board I got last December did the exact same thing yours is doing, from the start. I don't know what was wrong with it because I returned it and Newegg sent a new one at no cost.


----------



## Red1776

just an Holodeck XI update for the AMD HPP project FX- 8350 build portion

4 x R290X MSI Game edition EK watercoled

All four cards have easily gone over 1200 core.


----------



## puts

Anybody knows how much A gives cpu_fan connector ud7 board? Its so sick why they didnt add that thing on their motherboard manual








I want to use two 0.48A 120mm fans in cpu_fan


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Anybody knows how much A gives cpu_fan connector ud7 board? Its so sick why they didnt add that thing on their motherboard manual
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to use two 0.48A 120mm fans in cpu_fan


you should be ok. im running the 2 jetflo 140s from the 140XL with the included Y splitter on my cpu_fan header.


----------



## RingSteel

I just finished a new build using a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.4 board, and I'm getting an alarm sound (constant uninterrupted beep 10-15 seconds long) anytime I load the system.

All new parts:
AMD FX-8350 8 core 4.0 GHz Black Edition (cooled by Cooler Master Seidon 240M)
Sapphire Radeon R9 270X 4GB video card
Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 850W power supply
Crucial MX100 256GB SSD
PNY 8GB DDR3 1866MHz

Running Win 7 Pro, fully updated.

All the temps have remained below 42C, so the alarm doesn't seem to be heat related.

Even a mild load test like the Windows Experience Score test will sound the alarm within a minute.
Prime95 or Valley benchmark trigger the alarm in less than a minute.

I've tried exchanging the RAM, with the same result.
How should I diagnose from here?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingSteel*
> 
> I just finished a new build using a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.4 board, and I'm getting an alarm sound (constant uninterrupted beep 10-15 seconds long) anytime I load the system.
> 
> All new parts:
> AMD FX-8350 8 core 4.0 GHz Black Edition (cooled by Cooler Master Seidon 240M)
> Sapphire Radeon R9 270X 4GB video card
> Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 850W power supply
> Crucial MX100 256GB SSD
> PNY 8GB DDR3 1866MHz
> 
> Running Win 7 Pro, fully updated.
> 
> All the temps have remained below 42C, so the alarm doesn't seem to be heat related.
> 
> Even a mild load test like the Windows Experience Score test will sound the alarm within a minute.
> Prime95 or Valley benchmark trigger the alarm in less than a minute.
> 
> I've tried exchanging the RAM, with the same result.
> How should I diagnose from here?


http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-990fxa-ud3_e.pdf

Beep codes are on page 102. Continuous long beeps is to let you know the graphics card is not seated properly.


----------



## SpykeZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingSteel*
> 
> I just finished a new build using a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev.4 board, and I'm getting an alarm sound (constant uninterrupted beep 10-15 seconds long) anytime I load the system.
> 
> All new parts:
> AMD FX-8350 8 core 4.0 GHz Black Edition (cooled by Cooler Master Seidon 240M)
> Sapphire Radeon R9 270X 4GB video card
> Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 850W power supply
> Crucial MX100 256GB SSD
> PNY 8GB DDR3 1866MHz
> 
> Running Win 7 Pro, fully updated.
> 
> All the temps have remained below 42C, so the alarm doesn't seem to be heat related.
> 
> Even a mild load test like the Windows Experience Score test will sound the alarm within a minute.
> Prime95 or Valley benchmark trigger the alarm in less than a minute.
> 
> I've tried exchanging the RAM, with the same result.
> How should I diagnose from here?


Any reason you got such a big PSU in that thing? Your system could be powered by like 550-600watts


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> just an Holodeck XI update for the AMD HPP project FX- 8350 build portion
> 4 x R290X MSI Game edition EK watercoled
> All four cards have easily gone over 1200 core.


those vrm are screaming for a waterblock!!1! (although i remember reading that you didn't like vrm blocks)


----------



## RingSteel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_ga-990fxa-ud3_e.pdf
> 
> Beep codes are on page 102. Continuous long beeps is to let you know the graphics card is not seated properly.


Thanks for pointing that out. I had looked for those codes, and overlooked them.

I removed the video card, cleaned the contacts on the card, blew out the connector on the board with compressed air, then re-seated the card. Same problem persists.

I'm scrounging for a dvi-vga converter, so I can remove the GPU and run the test while using the MB VGA. Will update tomorrow.


----------



## RingSteel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SpykeZ*
> 
> Any reason you got such a big PSU in that thing? Your system could be powered by like 550-600watts


Yep, it's overkill. Just using the parts that I had been saving for a bigger build.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gringott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fidof650*
> 
> No dice.
> Craps... but we can now rule out resetting the CMOS as well.
> 
> Who's the next shooter?
> 
> ~fidof650
> 
> 
> 
> I had a situation like yours on a different mother board a couple of years ago, power was on, etc, but wouldn't do squat. I went through all the troubleshooting steps, including using a known good power supply, removing all the cards, known good minimal memory, even putting in a very low end known good video card.
> Nothing worked. Turned out to be a bad capacitor. Replaced it and ran the board to this day.
> 
> The first UD7 board I got last December did the exact same thing yours is doing, from the start. I don't know what was wrong with it because I returned it and Newegg sent a new one at no cost.
Click to expand...

Checked last night and couldn't find any blown caps.
Disappointing because I thought I'd finally have an answer.









Still looking for thoughts on what might be causing this.

~fidof650


----------



## gringott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650*
> 
> Checked last night and couldn't find any blown caps.
> Disappointing because I thought I'd finally have an answer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still looking for thoughts on what might be causing this.
> 
> ~fidof650


Have you put in a ticket at Gigabyte? What code did the motherboard diagnostic show?


----------



## zila

Hmmm, I wonder if maybe you had a power surge at your house while you were out and that blew the bios. I had that happen to me once. It took me the longest time to figure it out. On that particular board the bios was removable so all I had to do was purchase a pre-flashed bios chip and install it.

Is your rig on a good surge protector?

If I were you I would put in for an rma.


----------



## fidof650

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gringott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fidof650*
> 
> Checked last night and couldn't find any blown caps.
> Disappointing because I thought I'd finally have an answer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still looking for thoughts on what might be causing this.
> 
> ~fidof650
> 
> 
> 
> Have you put in a ticket at Gigabyte? What code did the motherboard diagnostic show?
Click to expand...

Only Code: 88
From the moment the power comes on.

~fiod650


----------



## gringott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650*
> 
> Only Code: 88
> From the moment the power comes on.
> 
> ~fiod650


At this point, if I was you, I would do these two steps:
1. Switch power supplies with the known good one from your UD5 if you don't have another one. If you have not done this already. This is only a test, so just hook up what you have to, this is just to see if that is the problem.
2. If you already did that, or it made no difference, switch in a known good CPU. Again, this is only a test, anything that is rated to run on this board is fine, just to see if the CPU is the problem.

I would do them in the order I wrote them. Of course if you have already done those two steps, and nothing changed, then I would take out and unplug everything not needed for a boot. Eliminate all possibilities, minimum ram, minimum cards, just a boot drive and nothing else.If that works, add things back one at a time.

Hope I am helping.


----------



## gringott

Gigabyte has a motherboard survey up if you don't know, I filled it out today. Seems like a great way to give them feedback.

http://event.gigabyte.com/2014-Questionary/


----------



## zila

Thanks for that link Gringott. I filled it out.


----------



## puts

Hello have anybody same problem like mine with easytune6 cpu voltage tab wont do nothing when press it? Frequency tab work for me but not voltages. I hope somebody know how to get that work because it makes overclock stabilty testing much faster and not need to go bios for every little voltage bump for test stabilty.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Hello have anybody same problem like mine with easytune6 cpu voltage tab wont do nothing when press it? Frequency tab work for me but not voltages. I hope somebody know how to get that work because it makes overclock stabilty testing much faster and not need to go bios for every little voltage bump for test stabilty.


Don't trust software overclocking.. Pretty simple..

Go use the Bios.

Put up a SIG rig. here http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

Ask, Listen, everybody will try to help you..


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fidof650*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gringott*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fidof650*
> 
> Checked last night and couldn't find any blown caps.
> Disappointing because I thought I'd finally have an answer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still looking for thoughts on what might be causing this.
> 
> ~fidof650
> 
> 
> 
> Have you put in a ticket at Gigabyte? What code did the motherboard diagnostic show?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Only Code: 88
> From the moment the power comes on.
> 
> ~fiod650
Click to expand...

 Look for electrical suspects. 8 pin MB power not plugged in completely, screw/metal in between MB and MB tray, bents pins (wires or CPU) 24 pin ATX / a loose MB standoff etc, etc.

Good luck


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Hello have anybody same problem like mine with easytune6 cpu voltage tab wont do nothing when press it? Frequency tab work for me but not voltages. I hope somebody know how to get that work because it makes overclock stabilty testing much faster and not need to go bios for every little voltage bump for test stabilty.


Like mus1mus said, use the Bios, not software oc tool. I tried to adjust voltage with easytune once and it completely froze my pc turning it up 1 click. never using it again


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Hello have anybody same problem like mine with easytune6 cpu voltage tab wont do nothing when press it? Frequency tab work for me but not voltages. I hope somebody know how to get that work because it makes overclock stabilty testing much faster and not need to go bios for every little voltage bump for test stabilty.


Like other users told you, its recommended to use BIOS. But if you want to have access to that part of the application you must press on the advanced button somewhere. I dont have it installed right now.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Just thought I would swing by and see how my UD3 Rev 3 friends are doing. Mine is surprisingly still alive lol. I'm very shocked by this.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Just thought I would swing by and see how my UD3 Rev 3 friends are doing. Mine is surprisingly still alive lol. I'm very shocked by this.


Good for ya mate..

Mine has been dead for about 8 months. Now on a Kitty.. And, Watercooling..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> Just thought I would swing by and see how my UD3 Rev 3 friends are doing. Mine is surprisingly still alive lol. I'm very shocked by this.


LOL

My UD5 rev 1.1 some time ago now. Under warranty they send me an UD5 rev 3.0 but the bios is a nightmare and the options for overclocking are minimal.

And like you said before, their customer care is a joke and they will not see any dime from this guy again









I am on Asus sabertooth R2.0 now and its a much better more capable board for the FX 8350 because even the UD5 cannot cope with the FX 8350 so it seems.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

You know I imagine if I tried to push my chip any harder it would likely kill the board. I've been debating on if it's time for an Intel build we'll see if this thing survives another year and what AMD has at the time.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OzzyRuleZ*
> 
> You know I imagine if I tried to push my chip any harder it would likely kill the board. I've been debating on if it's time for an Intel build we'll see if this thing survives another year and what AMD has at the time.


Yep, but there are other manufacturers than gigabyte you know









I don't went to Asus for no reason. The sabertooth is one of the best boards that can handle these insane chips. It has its flaws tho, like the EC sensor that doesn't like to be read... and some other stuff.

But hey, it keeps my 8350 cool and stable as a rock and it can take almost anything i throw at it while its cheaper than the Gigabyte UD5, go figure.


----------



## zila

Yup, I've got a hard modded UD5 Rev. 1, UD5 Rev. 3, Sabertooth 990FXA R2.0 and a CHVF-Z. The Asus boards are the best of the best.









That being said, the UD5's are absolutely beautiful boards. I do love them as well.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Yup, I've got a hard modded UD5 Rev. 1, UD5 Rev. 3, Sabertooth 990FXA R2.0 and a CHVF-Z. The Asus boards are the best of the best.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That being said, the UD5's are absolutely beautiful boards. I do love them as well.


I give them that the gigabyte board have much better aesthetics and the sound card is much better on the Gigabyte than on the Asus but there is where the comparison ends.

they simply cannot handle the FX 8350 known aka 'volcano' lol


----------



## zila

Yup, you hit the nail right on the head Hurricane28. I'm running Phenoms on my Giga boards and they like that a lot.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Yup, you hit the nail right on the head Hurricane28. I'm running Phenoms on my Giga boards and they like that a lot.


Well yeah, i suppose they like phenom chips because they do not run nearly as hot as the FX chips do.


----------



## Mega Man

funny my 8350 runs fine on my ud7


----------



## puts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> funny my 8350 runs fine on my ud7


What overclock and voltages you use and what tmpin2 temps hwmonitor you get when on prime95 or intel burn test? Because my UD7 with 8320e trying run 1.31v 4.5ghz intel burn test after minute my vrm temps are over 80c and then i stop because i scare to damage my board. I tried puttin fan on northebirdge too and it didnt help


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> funny my 8350 runs fine on my ud7


Great i'm happy for you but an UD7 is not an UD5..


----------



## puts

Hello do you guys think if i change northsink headsink and southbridge termal paste then i can use same tthermal pads what they factory used on vrm or i must buy new for vrm heatsink my board is 990fxa-ud7


----------



## Red1776

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Hello do you guys think if i change northsink headsink and southbridge termal paste then i can use same tthermal pads what they factory used on vrm or i must buy new for vrm heatsink my board is 990fxa-ud7


Get new thermal pads, they compress and stay that way. Re-using pads is just asking for higher temps.


----------



## puts

I still dont get it is tmpin0 southbridge or northbridge temp? Some says north some south but whos right?


----------



## RingSteel

Is there any reason to remove and replace the factory pads? Does careful re-installing help lower temps?


----------



## hazard99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RingSteel*
> 
> Is there any reason to remove and replace the factory pads? Does careful re-installing help lower temps?


I Removed the pads and replaced it with ceramic themral paste. It helped a bit but getting fans on the NB and VRM helped a lot more.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> funny my 8350 runs fine on my ud7
> 
> 
> 
> What overclock and voltages you use and what tmpin2 temps hwmonitor you get when on prime95 or intel burn test? Because my UD7 with 8320e trying run 1.31v 4.5ghz intel burn test after minute my vrm temps are over 80c and then i stop because i scare to damage my board. I tried puttin fan on northebirdge too and it didnt help
Click to expand...

i am pushing 1.572v ( atm it is getting rebuilt long term rebuild) and it stays less them 63.3c core, but i have massive cooling i can go higher but i oc my nb and ht too much for it

4.8 3800ht 2750cpu/nb ( nb core ) 16gb ( 2x8gb) 2400 cl10


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



















have not tested the 9590yet


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> funny my 8350 runs fine on my ud7
> 
> 
> 
> Great i'm happy for you but an UD7 is not an UD5..
Click to expand...

if not the same iirc similar vrms actually and mine is a rev3


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am pushing 1.572v ( atm it is getting rebuilt long term rebuild) and it stays less them 63.3c core, but i have massive cooling i can go higher but i oc my nb and ht too much for it
> 
> 4.8 3800ht 2750cpu/nb ( nb core ) 16gb ( 2x8gb) 2400 cl10
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have not tested the 9590yet
> 
> if not the same iirc similar vrms actually and mine is a rev3


No they are not the same. vrm design perhaps but the heat sinks are different and it has more PCI-e lanes but you figured that out yourself.

I had the rev 3.0 UD5 and it has the worst bios i ever seen. I stick with the Asus sabertooth for now. Yes it has some down sides and the audio is really bad but at least it can handle the 8350 at high overclocks. I could get nice scores with the UD5 rev 1.1 but but it was hard to get it stable at high overclocks.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Just wondering what peoples choice would be between using an 8350 on a UD3, on either Rev1.0 or Rev4.0 ?

I have waterblocks for the MOSFET's and NB chipset. so temp is no issue.

Is there any difference ?


----------



## hurricane28

There is a difference.

rev 1.0 has no LLC (load line calibration) which can help with overclocking and gain stability. rev 4.0 has better power phases as well and is a better board over all.


----------



## ginger_nuts

That's cool. It is that I just have the rev 1.0 out of a machine ATM.

So I guess pulling the other out is next weekends mission.


----------



## Mega Man

IMO leave the rev 1. stronger vrms

you will need higher vcore at idle but LLC is easily overcome


----------



## hurricane28

Yeah, the newer revisions have stronger vrms and LLC.

you can overcome LLC but only at low overclocks, it becomes harder the higher you get. Since you have water blocks for the vrm and nb i assume you want a decent overclock so forget the rev 1. and go for the rev 4.0.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> Just wondering what peoples choice would be between using an 8350 on a UD3, on either Rev1.0 or Rev4.0 ?
> 
> I have waterblocks for the MOSFET's and NB chipset. so temp is no issue.
> 
> Is there any difference ?


How do you have blocks for both revisions considering the vrm spacing is different?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> IMO leave the rev 1. stronger vrms
> 
> you will need higher vcore at idle but LLC is easily overcome


This,^
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yeah, the newer revisions have stronger vrms and LLC.
> 
> you can overcome LLC but only at low overclocks, it becomes harder the higher you get. Since you have water blocks for the vrm and nb i assume you want a decent overclock so forget the rev 1. and go for the rev 4.0.


NO.

Rev. 1 fir the UD3. If you can still pick one.

Has been proven over and over. Ask Kyad, Ebduncan etc.

The split phase design was poorly implemented on the newer revisions.

Not to mention BIOS PITA.

Rev. 1 also has VRM blocks IIRC.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> This,^
> NO.
> 
> *Rev. 1 fir the UD3. If you can still pick one.*
> 
> Has been proven over and over. Ask Kyad, Ebduncan etc.
> 
> The split phase design was poorly implemented on the newer revisions.
> 
> Not to mention BIOS PITA.
> 
> Rev. 1 also has VRM blocks IIRC.


I had the rev 1.0 UD3 and it was crap and didn't overclock because of lack of LLC... i went to the store and they told me that the rev 1. was complete rubbish and they replaced it with the rev 1.1 which was working fine only due to the poorly vrm heat sinks and the poorly mounting mechanism i burned my board. Later i got the UD5 rev 1.1 and was working great only id died on me because of the PSU failure.

So i tried a board with and without LLC and the one with LLC was more stable and higher clocks were achievable, why do you think they embedded LLC with all the newer boards and revisions in the first place?


----------



## Mega Man

because you did not set the vcore high enough,

llc raises vcore under load

so if you have no llc, you just run vcore high at idle


----------



## zila

That formula back-fired on me with my UD3 Rev. 1. I wound up sitting at 1.6v at idle just to try and counter act the massive vdroop that board has. And then I had to fight off the heat generated at 1.6v. And still there was some instability because the voltages were fluctuating all the time. That was a very poorly designed mother board. The vrm cooling sucked too.

I had that UD3 Rev. 1 board for exactly one week before I sent that thing back. It was awful.

You just can't get those finite adjustments in their when you need them when those voltages are flying around like that.

So with my UD5 Rev. 1 I did the hard mod which just cancelled out the vdroop and replaced it with a tad of boost. Much better now. I really do prefer having llc on a board now but that mod went a long way towards stabilizing my clocks. Crap, I couldn't even get a Phenom II to run well on that board without the mod.

Maybe some guys just do better than others with those boards but I just can't stand them.









Good luck with that thing.


----------



## Mega Man

and yet someone in the 83xx club swears by the msi 990fx board


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> because you did not set the vcore high enough,
> 
> llc raises vcore under load
> 
> so if you have no llc, you just run vcore high at idle


Yes i know that but it took so much voltage to stabilize even at 4.6Ghz that i decided to stop the madness and return the board and got myself an rev 1.1 with LLC and better heat sinks and all problems were gone except it couldn't handle high overclocks due to poor vrm design.

LLC does more than simply correcting vcore. It also takes care of the efficiency of the power delivery. That is why my Sabertooth is such an better overclocker than any Gigabyte board i had.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> because you did not set the vcore high enough,
> 
> llc raises vcore under load
> 
> so if you have no llc, you just run vcore high at idle


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> That formula back-fired on me with my UD3 Rev. 1. I wound up sitting at 1.6v at idle just to try and counter act the massive vdroop that board has. And then I had to fight off the heat generated at 1.6v. And still there was some instability because the voltages were fluctuating all the time. That was a very poorly designed mother board. The vrm cooling sucked too.
> 
> I had that UD3 Rev. 1 board for exactly one week before I sent that thing back. It was awful.
> 
> You just can't get those finite adjustments in their when you need them when those voltages are flying around like that.
> 
> So with my UD5 Rev. 1 I did the hard mod which just cancelled out the vdroop and replaced it with a tad of boost. Much better now. I really do prefer having llc on a board now but that mod went a long way towards stabilizing my clocks. Crap, I couldn't even get a Phenom II to run well on that board without the mod.
> 
> Maybe some guys just do better than others with those boards but I just can't stand them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck with that thing.


I could not more agree with you on that. Its just an ridiculously stupid board that cannot handle even a decent overclock due to poor vrm design and lack of LLC.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and yet someone in the 83xx club swears by the msi 990fx board


Yes I've heard but MSI and Gigabyte are way different, its not only the lack of LLC but the entire bios is way different as well.

Its the same with UD5 rev 1. vs UD5 rev 3.0 MSI has a way better UEFI bios while the UD5/UD3 has a normal bios.

I must say that when i needed another board i was thinking of getting the MSI GD80 or the Sabertooth and since i could not get the MSI GD80 from a good retails hop i went with the Sabertooth.

I heard a lot of good things about the GD80 but still i prefer my Sabertooth.


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> How do you have blocks for both revisions considering the vrm spacing is different?


I have Koolance blocks that need a little adjustment but will fit.

MOSFET = MVR-100 Water Block + MVR Heat Transfer Plate, 140mm

NB Chip = CHC-122 Water Block

Since my rev1.0 runs nicely with the 1055t, doesn't suffer vdroop up to 1.6v, and I am happy with it's BIOS I might just try it first.

Plus what is the worst that happens, I kill a board that I do not need


----------



## Mega Man

the ud5s were rev 1.1 and rev3


----------



## hurricane28

Correct.

I had the UD3 rev 1. UD3 rev 1.1, UD5 rev 1.1 and the UD5 rev 3.0.

The UD5 rev 1.1 was the best board out of that bunch. Rev 3.0 is a nightmare and the UEFI is simply rubbish.

Each board has it cons and good things. As for now the only reason i went with the Sabertooth is that it can handle my 8350 just fine and it allows me lower voltages on CPU and CPU/NB.

The rest i do not like so much, the aesthetics is not as nice as the UD5 and the audio is far worse than on the UD5.

The 8-pin CPU connector is in the wrong place IMO and the USB 3.0 connector is in the wrong place as well IMO.

The MSI 990FX GD80 has by far the best board layout, it has the 8-pin CPU connector on the right place and the USB 3.0 has the best place possible.


----------



## Slinkey123

A lot of talk about different rev versions. I have the rev 4.. Does the rev 4 have any issues?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinkey123*
> 
> A lot of talk about different rev versions. I have the rev 4.. Does the rev 4 have any issues?


I have no idea man.

If it works for you i think there are no issues


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slinkey123*
> 
> A lot of talk about different rev versions. I have the rev 4.. Does the rev 4 have any issues?


It brought my fx-6350 to 5.5 ghz on water. Seems alright to me lol


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I have Koolance blocks that need a little adjustment but will fit.
> 
> MOSFET = MVR-100 Water Block + MVR Heat Transfer Plate, 140mm
> 
> NB Chip = CHC-122 Water Block
> 
> Since my rev1.0 runs nicely with the 1055t, doesn't suffer vdroop up to 1.6v, and I am happy with it's BIOS I might just try it first.
> 
> Plus what is the worst that happens, I kill a board that I do not need


Ah you did end up with one of those blocks. I'll be curious how well it cools the vrm.

Edit: Are my mosfets almost done (blown up)? Completely rebuilding my loop right now and while taking a close look at the mosfets they looked a little off color or even burnt... Never had a single problem with them and have never had a burnt smell coming from the board. They've been water blocked since January with a temp probe on the back to keep an eye on temps.

Contact wasn't a problem as the thermal pad had indentions from every mosfet on it. The grey stuff in the pics is left over thermal pad.


----------



## Alxz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I have Koolance blocks that need a little adjustment but will fit.
> 
> MOSFET = MVR-100 Water Block + MVR Heat Transfer Plate, 140mm
> 
> NB Chip = CHC-122 Water Block
> 
> Since my rev1.0 runs nicely with the 1055t, doesn't suffer vdroop up to 1.6v, and I am happy with it's BIOS I might just try it first.
> 
> Plus what is the worst that happens, I kill a board that I do not need


i'll be dying to see photos of that system oAo


----------



## puts

Hello guys, can vrm overheat when cpu cooler is not sufficense to cool cpu and then cpu temp raises vrm too even if you have very powerful fans on vrm?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Hello guys, can vrm overheat when cpu cooler is not sufficense to cool cpu and then cpu temp raises vrm too even if you have very powerful fans on vrm?


Yes, at first you need good CPU cooling in order to keep the vrms and CPU cool. If your CPU cooler is not sufficient the vrms heat up as well.

I noticed that when i bought better cooling for my CPU the vrms get cooler as well.

If you have insufficient CPU cooler the vrm fan doesn't do much to be honest.


----------



## M3TAl

Been way too busy at work all week but think I may have broken my UD3 while completely rebuilding my water loop. Or maybe the BIOS (and backup) are corrupt beyond repair.

The USB ports don't work at all and neither do the SATA when in SATA mode but a CD Rom works in IDE (ssd does not in IDE). So I've been trying to figure out a way to flash a BIOS from bootable dos CD but so far it isn't working.

I'm thinking either the BIOS (both of them) are corrupt or I actually damaged the NB while doing the tubing for the NB and VRM. I've flashed the backup BIOS to the main one twice now and it says there is a checksum error on the main BIOS. After flashing the backup to main the problem still exists and flashing the backup to main a 2nd time still gives checksum error.

Anyone got ideas? Sorry for lack of details (at work atm).

Edit: I give up. The board is done. Made an Ultimate Boot CD with the BIOS files on it. When executing the efiflash.exe in DOS it just says spi flash initiate failure. There's no way to flash the bios since the USB's don't work and flashing from CD-Rom doesn't seem to work either. Can't get in windows to flash either as the POST hangs with a HDD attached.

Edit 2: Okay Gigabyte WTH?!?! Rev 1.1 bios F10D comes with Efiflash.exe (this board is non-uefi) and F9 comes with FlashSPI.exe.... Time to make one last ditch effort CD with FlashSPI.exe instead.

Edit 3: It actually flashed F9 in DOS off CD-Rom. USB/SATA still doesn't work so the board is toast. No idea how/why.


----------



## LeilaHy

Hey guys, I've just gotten a GA-990FXA-UD7 and was wondering the best set up for a closed-loop liquid cooler (which I've yet to decide upon). Because the board doesn't have many SYS_FAN headers, I was wondering where I should connect the radiator fan and where I should connect the pump. I'm thinking perhaps I should plug the radiator fan into the CPU_FAN header, and the pump into the PWR_FAN header, but Gigabyte are terrible when it comes to explaining what their PWR_FAN headers are used for or consist of (voltage-wise though I believe it consists of Pin 1: GND, Pin 2: +12v and Pin 3: Sense).

Edit: Revision is 3.0.


----------



## vlaint

anyone tried the beta bios of ga 990fxa ud3 rev 3.0? bios fdk


----------



## buttface420

when overclocking a fx 8350 on 990fxa-ud3 (rev.4) is it better to just raise multiplier, raise fsb, or both?


----------



## ginger_nuts

The multi is the easiest way.

If you want the absolute highest clock speed then use a combination of the two.


----------



## ginger_nuts

There seems to be a significant difference between UD3 rev1.0 and rev4.0 when it comes to their MOSFET's

This is the rev1.0


This is the rev4.0


So I guess I will be using the rev4.0 to water cool everything.


----------



## M3TAl

For anyone in US50 that's interested in VRM + NB blocks I will be selling mine in the coming weeks here on OCN. Saying good riddance to AMD and going Z97









They will be the EK blocks that fit any VRM with 88mm spacing (UD3's rev 1.0, 1.1, 1.2).


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> For anyone in US50 that's interested in VRM + NB blocks I will be selling mine in the coming weeks here on OCN. Saying good riddance to AMD and going Z97
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They will be the EK blocks that fit any VRM with 88mm spacing (UD3's rev 1.0, 1.1, 1.2).


I just put the AM3+ on the shelf and using Z97 now







I will build a benching rig out of the AM3+ rig though


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> For anyone in US50 that's interested in VRM + NB blocks I will be selling mine in the coming weeks here on OCN. Saying good riddance to AMD and going Z97
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They will be the EK blocks that fit any VRM with 88mm spacing (UD3's rev 1.0, 1.1, 1.2).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> For anyone in US50 that's interested in VRM + NB blocks I will be selling mine in the coming weeks here on OCN. Saying good riddance to AMD and going Z97
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They will be the EK blocks that fit any VRM with 88mm spacing (UD3's rev 1.0, 1.1, 1.2).
> 
> 
> 
> I just put the AM3+ on the shelf and using Z97 now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will build a benching rig out of the AM3+ rig though
Click to expand...









x2


----------



## M3TAl

Can't wait to go to the blue side. I'm pumped.


----------



## ginger_nuts

All I can say is that the difference is not a massive WOW. BUT there is a difference.

I went from a 8350 @ 4.7 Ghz Win7 to a i5 4690K (stock 3.5 - 3.9 Ghz, ) Win 8.1.

I am yet to OC the i5 simply due to not having a spare block.


----------



## Regnitto

Got myself an h100i last night. load temps on my FX-6100 @ 4520 down from 70c to 50c


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> All I can say is that the difference is not a massive WOW. BUT there is a difference.
> 
> I went from a 8350 @ 4.7 Ghz Win7 to a i5 4690K (stock 3.5 - 3.9 Ghz, ) Win 8.1.
> 
> I am yet to OC the i5 simply due to not having a spare block.


My reasons for switching are less to do with with seeing a difference in real world performance. It's more to do with me being fed up with this old platform, AMD, think I ruined my UD3 somehow (tired of dealing with it), and I desperately need something new and exciting to play with. Just a Z97 board in itself will be a major upgrade from this old outdated AMD platform.


----------



## clasificado

Hi everyone!

i'm trying to solve this problem that is driving me nuts configuring a raid 5, maybe someone have a clue for me









i want to make a raid 5 in a gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5. i have a single drive for a windows 8.1 and i want to use 3 wd blue 1tb for a raid 5 configuration to store my data.

the thing is
- i set the bios to allow raid in the south bridge
- i get to the raid config (ctrl + f) and configure a raid 5 using all spare 3 drives
- windows don't detect the raid, and i get all 3 drives as individual drives (checked in computer management -> disk management)
if i do the same thing with raid 0 it works fine, windows detects correctly a single unit with all features combined.

if i set two raid settings on the same drives (half for raid0 and half for raid5), windows detects my raid 0 and it's like my raid 5 doesn't exists.

it's still a mystery to me

anyone have any idea what test i could do to solve the mistery?

thanks!


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

I'm thinking about picking up another 7970ghz or a 280x and doing crossfire but I'm also considering doing an Intel build. That is a substantial statement because I haven't done an Intel build since 2001....


----------



## M3TAl

That's more of a financial question and how badly you want something new to play with... Obviously a whole new build will cost you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clasificado*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> i'm trying to solve this problem that is driving me nuts configuring a raid 5, maybe someone have a clue for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i want to make a raid 5 in a gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5. i have a single drive for a windows 8.1 and i want to use 3 wd blue 1tb for a raid 5 configuration to store my data.
> 
> the thing is
> - i set the bios to allow raid in the south bridge
> - i get to the raid config (ctrl + f) and configure a raid 5 using all spare 3 drives
> - windows don't detect the raid, and i get all 3 drives as individual drives (checked in computer management -> disk management)
> if i do the same thing with raid 0 it works fine, windows detects correctly a single unit with all features combined.
> 
> if i set two raid settings on the same drives (half for raid0 and half for raid5), windows detects my raid 0 and it's like my raid 5 doesn't exists.
> 
> it's still a mystery to me
> 
> anyone have any idea what test i could do to solve the mistery?
> 
> thanks!


Sorry I've only used RAID-0 on these boards and have no experience with RAID-5. Never seen/heard anyone else with this problem but I doubt many people run RAID-5's on these.


----------



## clasificado

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clasificado*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> i'm trying to solve this problem that is driving me nuts configuring a raid 5, maybe someone have a clue for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i want to make a raid 5 in a gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD5. i have a single drive for a windows 8.1 and i want to use 3 wd blue 1tb for a raid 5 configuration to store my data.
> 
> the thing is
> - i set the bios to allow raid in the south bridge
> - i get to the raid config (ctrl + f) and configure a raid 5 using all spare 3 drives
> - windows don't detect the raid, and i get all 3 drives as individual drives (checked in computer management -> disk management)
> if i do the same thing with raid 0 it works fine, windows detects correctly a single unit with all features combined.
> 
> if i set two raid settings on the same drives (half for raid0 and half for raid5), windows detects my raid 0 and it's like my raid 5 doesn't exists.
> 
> it's still a mystery to me
> 
> anyone have any idea what test i could do to solve the mistery?
> 
> thanks!


FIXED!

i had to use the raid driver from AMD directly and not the one from gigabyte

http://support.amd.com/en-us/download/desktop?os=Windows+7+-+64

somehow that did the trick.


----------



## aaronsta1

so i have decided to try to clock my 8350 to its max.. im sure its been stated here somewhere but i tried to search and didnt find anything..

how hot is the hottest you can run the vrm temps??

im currently at 4.7 @ 1.45v and on IBT my vrm temps hit 85c..

i dont think they will get that hot in standard use tho.. just want to know..

i noticed they take a really long time to cool off.. i have a fan on them, but would it be worth it to replace the pads with new pads or even paste?


----------



## Mega Man

Don't use paste. Pads are used on vrms to maintain distance between the metal of the hs and the power.

Yes you can put new pads (AND paste if you want) however nothing will help as much as a fan


----------



## ginger_nuts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> so i have decided to try to clock my 8350 to its max.. im sure its been stated here somewhere but i tried to search and didnt find anything..
> 
> how hot is the hottest you can run the vrm temps??
> 
> im currently at 4.7 @ 1.45v and on IBT my vrm temps hit 85c..
> 
> i dont think they will get that hot in standard use tho.. just want to know..
> 
> i noticed they take a really long time to cool off.. i have a fan on them, but would it be worth it to replace the pads with new pads or even paste?


I did find in my CM 690 III that having the rear fan as supply, some what onto a 120mm fan I had resting on top of my video card, blowing onto the VRM and NB block, dropped the temps by about 10 degrees Celsius


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginger_nuts*
> 
> I did find in my CM 690 III that having the rear fan as supply, some what onto a 120mm fan I had resting on top of my video card, blowing onto the VRM and NB block, dropped the temps by about 10 degrees Celsius


yeah it doesnt look like its going to be worth going from 4.6 to 4.7.. 1.45 isnt enough volts, i had a crash while playing games.


----------



## puts

Hello if i put my gpu in second slot what is X4 pcie so that means i only get x4 power even if i use only single gpu in that x4 pcie socket?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Hello if i put my gpu in second slot what is X4 pcie so that means i only get x4 power even if i use only single gpu in that x4 pcie socket?


X4 refers to the bandwidth available between the gpu and CPU. You may lose 0-4 fps, depends on the gpu used (very high end or not) and other circumstances.


----------



## puts

Yes i know but i tought its only make bandwich smaller if you use multiple gpus and if i use single card then it works x16 because in psyhicsy its x16 slot but writed on it that its x4. They are all on my board x16 slots because i have ud7
http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2011/07/gigabyte-990fxa-ud7-review/gigabyte-990FX-l-8.jpg i want use that second slot what have ati crossfire logo on and writed x4


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Yes i know but i tought its only make bandwich smaller if you use multiple gpus and if i use single card then it works x16 because in psyhicsy its x16 slot but writed on it that its x4. They are all on my board x16 slots because i have ud7
> http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2011/07/gigabyte-990fxa-ud7-review/gigabyte-990FX-l-8.jpg i want use that second slot what have ati crossfire logo on and writed x4


um not exactly.. the only ports that have all the pins to make it 16x is the 2 specified..

if you look at the other ones you will notice only a small amount of pins are actually in the socket..

the 4x sockets are for the short cards, like sound cards.

it wouldn't hurt to put the gpu i the 8x socket tho..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Hello if i put my gpu in second slot what is X4 pcie so that means i only get x4 power even if i use only single gpu in that x4 pcie socket?


there are 2 things to consider, you are putting it into a physical x16 slot, however electrically it is only x4, which means it will only get 1/4 of the lanes avail.

will it matter depends on what you want to do with it, windows, not a prob gaming on the other hand may be an issue ( with several depends on )

there are x8/x16 slots which will if another specified slot is populated will run @x8.

when nothing else is populating the specified slot then it will run in x16


----------



## puts

So if i put my card in x8 slot then its working x16 speed if card is single?


----------



## Mega Man

It depends on the mobo and the slot used.

In what you asked. You would get x4. Not x8 or x16


----------



## puts

Its that thing i can put it in x8 slot too but i cant put it second x16 slot because i use pci sound card so my possible is use X4 or X8 slot and my board is UD7 I cant use it first x16 because cooler i want is so big it takes that slot.


----------



## SavageBrat

Just out of curiosity why not put your gpu in the 2nd 16x slot and move your sound card?


----------



## puts

Its pci soundcard and motherboard only have one pci socket


----------



## SavageBrat

Had to open my case and have a look at my board..lol but i see, your running a tower cooler i take it..


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> So if i put my card in x8 slot then its working x16 speed if card is single?


no, like i said before, the only slots that are 16x are the ones specified..


----------



## puts

Wow gigabyte company is moron. They put on motherboard six x16 pcie socket but only two are real x16. And thats their top of the line AMD motherboard.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Wow gigabyte company is moron. They put on motherboard six x16 pcie socket but only two are real x16. And thats their top of the line AMD motherboard.


i dont think its gigabytes fault, i dont think the chipset can handle more then 2x 16x slots.. its really not needed.. pcie 2.0 hasnt maxed out the 8x slot yet.

the only chipset that i think had an option for more was the x58 ud9 board. they had all 7 pcie slots 16x. altho im not sure if you could have used all 7 at the same time.

edit, wrote 3.0 and meant 2.0.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Wow gigabyte company is moron. They put on motherboard six x16 pcie socket but only two are real x16. And thats their top of the line AMD motherboard.
> 
> 
> 
> i dont think its gigabytes fault, i dont think the chipset can handle more then 2x 16x slots.. its really not needed.. pcie 2.0 hasnt maxed out the 8x slot yet.
> 
> the only chipset that i think had an option for more was the x58 ud9 board. they had all 7 pcie slots 16x. altho im not sure if you could have used all 7 at the same time.
> 
> edit, wrote 3.0 and meant 2.0.
Click to expand...

correct ONLY 32 lanes from the chip for VGA

@puts based on your previous comments i think you need to research cpus before stating mobo manufactures are morons . also i dont know what "x4" you are using, considering there are 2 x8/x16 slots and 2x8 slots

giga has done sever moronic things, but pcie slots are not one of them
this is NOT including the x4 slots, so why are you so hell bent on using the x4 slots?

also PCI is dead, time to get a new soundcard.


----------



## puts

Why i want spend new 200€ soundcard if my pci soundcard use exaclty same audio chip what today ''new 200€ pcie sound cards''? Please dont give false information.
And you are wrong with saying there isnt x4 pcie slots on that board.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Why i want spend new 200€ soundcard if my pci soundcard use exaclty same audio chip what today ''new 200€ pcie sound cards''? Please dont give false information.
> And you are wrong with saying there isnt x4 pcie slots on that board.


zoom in really far on that pic and look at those slots.. notice that only 1/4 of them have pins in them?

yes they may be full size but im not even sure a video card in them would be detected by the bios..

why dont you use the 8x slot?

im still confused as to what you are trying to do.


----------



## puts

That picture was for Mega Man who said that board dont have 4x pcie slots so i made picture for him. Yeah i plan use that x8 socket.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *puts*
> 
> Why i want spend new 200€ soundcard if my pci soundcard use exaclty same audio chip what today ''new 200€ pcie sound cards''? Please dont give false information.
> And you are wrong with saying there isnt x4 pcie slots on that board.


You really need to learn to read my full answer. I stated I don't know what x4 you are using.

(There are 2 on the board. Which leaves 2 options. In the same post I acknowledged the x4. I NEVER said there was none)

I then stated considering there are 2 x8/x16 slots and 2x8 slots

giga has done sever ( spelling error ment several ) moronic things, but pcie slots are not one of them

Then ( was a editing error. This was supposed to be up where I as talking about the x8/x16 slots )

this is NOT including the x4 slots, so why are you so hell bent on using the x4 slots?

I would multi quote but I am on my phone.

So you have 4 other slots for your gpu that are either x8 or x16.

Pci is dead. Look at several boards that were released this year. You will see pci is appearing on less and less.

It is being phased out.


----------



## M3TAl

Just removed my UD3 to install the Z97. Might have found out part of why my UD3 SATA and USB ports no longer work.

Check this out. Used a sewing needle, the only thing that would fit. No idea how this happened, my case's connector might be messed up.





After bending it back:


----------



## Mega Man

probably
according to the pinout it seems you shorted a data line to ground

it may work again now that that is no longer shorted


----------



## M3TAl

Definitely going to try the board out once I'm done installing the new Z97. Might sell it if it works, the board is pretty badly warped around the rear connectors/VRM section though. Maybe I'll keep the 990FXA and sell the 970A-UD3 if the 990FXA still works.


----------



## Mega Man

GL


----------



## aaroc

@Mega Man What low profile USB 3 connector/extender did you buy from diymod.com? I want to buy the same one to use on my ud7.

Someone knows where to buy a UD7? I didn find on ebay, tigerdirect, newegg,amazon.
Someone wants to sell their ud7 and 32 GB Ram kit that works faster than 1866


----------



## Mega Man

i am making my own

dumbest place they could of put the usb3.0 header huh ?

basically going to make this

http://www.moddiy.com/products/USB-3.0-20%252dPin-Internal-Header-Adapter-Cable-%28Low-Profile-Connector%29.html

they also sell them by the 500 pack if your interested


----------



## reeven

From time to time i see usb problems on ud5 and ud3 rev4 board.
Bought an logi keyboard wireless, k350 curved, if i plug it into back usb, i get lag when write. I need to plug it into case usb.
Yesterday bought an Redragon Perdition Mouse( non wired), plug it into back usb, today when pc start cant see the cursor, it was near lcd right panel hided and something was keeping it there.
Unplug mouse and it start working.

Videos here:

https://vid.me/jY7L

https://vid.me/Z7qU

If i plug this Redragon mouse into case usb, or usb hub, cursor is ok.
Third, usb dvbc tuner, i have 8 of them, msi, hauupauge, terratec, etc, if i plug it into back usb 2.0, 3.0, i get artifacts on image.
Four, external WD hdd that get bluscreens when ;plug into back usb3.0 .Via says that they dont have those hdd, Gigabyte says stupid things like update drivers and WD says its not their fault.
I have 10 external hdd, only WD has bluscreens on this. Toshiba, Verbatim, Adata are ok on usb 3.0 via vl805.
Five, my Logitech mx revolution mouse, plug in the back i get lag, i keep it into usb hub.

Before these amd board i have only Intel from 2005, but i used laptops amds and there all was ok with usb periphals

Any of this devices if i plug them into usb hub or usb case all are good. Gigabyte support is zero.

Regarding board stability, i see an awfull bug from time to time, i start PC in the morning, no info appear at bios screen, nothing, it stay with black screen all day. If i reset the bios all are ok. It does that every 1-2 months at cold boot. No image appear, no info about processor speed, nothing.
I reported this bug second day when i bought ud3 rev4. I receive this bug in the first day caming from shop


----------



## FiatluX

My rear board USB ports are starting to freak out too, mouse attached is slowly becoming more and more erratic..
If I move it to the case ports, there´s no problems at all!


----------



## OverclockerFox

I recently bought 2 kits of 2x8 GB G. Skill 2400 Mhz TridentX ram in the past month, and yesterday I finally bothered to pull my PC out of storage (no desk space at current place), and I finally bothered to try installing it to test, but it wouldn't boot with it no matter if I tried one kit, two, the other kit, or all 4 dimms individually, in the socket nearest the socket. I even tried changing the timings to the recommended speed for the G. Skill ram, but that still wouldn't work. And ram voltage was still set at 1.65 V, like it was with the Corsair ram. The PC would only boot or even show the BIOS flash screen with the Corsair ram. I don't know what's wrong; I was very careful and gentle with the TridentX's. This is really bothering me because if I can't fix the problem; I'd hate to have bought 4 $125 lemons that I can't use for a RAMdisk at all. Not to mention that I wanted to move onto DDR4, and this was supposed to be the last DDR3 I was going to buy, to squeeze a bit more performance out of my 990FXA-UD7 and FX-8350.


----------



## ~kRon1k~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> My rear board USB ports are starting to freak out too, mouse attached is slowly becoming more and more erratic..
> If I move it to the case ports, there´s no problems at all!


had to rma my ud5 rev 1 for that and was sent a new rev 3.0. no problems since, and I can overclock my ram higher on this board


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverclockerFox*
> 
> I recently bought 2 kits of 2x8 GB G. Skill 2400 Mhz TridentX ram in the past month, and yesterday I finally bothered to pull my PC out of storage (no desk space at current place), and I finally bothered to try installing it to test, but it wouldn't boot with it no matter if I tried one kit, two, the other kit, or all 4 dimms individually, in the socket nearest the socket. I even tried changing the timings to the recommended speed for the G. Skill ram, but that still wouldn't work. And ram voltage was still set at 1.65 V, like it was with the Corsair ram. The PC would only boot or even show the BIOS flash screen with the Corsair ram. I don't know what's wrong; I was very careful and gentle with the TridentX's. This is really bothering me because if I can't fix the problem; I'd hate to have bought 4 $125 lemons that I can't use for a RAMdisk at all. Not to mention that I wanted to move onto DDR4, and this was supposed to be the last DDR3 I was going to buy, to squeeze a bit more performance out of my 990FXA-UD7 and FX-8350.


1
4 dimms are hard to run @ 2400,

2
even if they are bad gskill have a lifetime warranty

3
need bios settings, you mention voltage which is actually low ( you need to run it a few bumps more due to voltage drop ) but nothing like.... idk timings ?


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> 4 dimms are hard to run @ 2400,
> 
> 2
> even if they are bad gskill have a lifetime warranty
> 
> 3
> need bios settings, you mention voltage which is actually low ( you need to run it a few bumps more due to voltage drop ) but nothing like.... idk timings ?


@Mega Man can you please elaborate about needing more voltage for using 4 dimms? I have this G.SKill 4x8GB 2400 (1.65V). If I use only two it starts at 2133 without problems after loading the XMP profile. If I use four it start only at 1333, anything higher and the BIOS disagrees to start and reverts changes. With a Corsair Vengeance 4x8GB 1866 (1.5V) is the same history, to dimms fine at 1866, four only at 1333. Im using a FX 9590 with LLC on high. Can you please tell me how much Volts I have to rise without burning the ram?


----------



## M3TAl

Using 4 dimms will require more voltage on the memory controller/CPU-NB, at least for higher memory speeds. A high memory multiplier probably wont work either. Might have to go with 1600 and OC with FSB to get close to 2400.


----------



## Mega Man

While he is accurate about cpu/nb I was referring to actual ram volts 1.675 trends to be better (rather then 1.65 ) due to vdrop

but again your imc may not be able to do 4 dimms @2400


----------



## OverclockerFox

I tried changing the BIOS ram timings from the recommended timings for the Corsair ram, 9-9-9-27, to 10-12-12-31, the recommended timings for the G.Skill TridentX's. Voltage was set to account for Vdroop @1.675V.

And what do I do about the fact that it doesn't even show the BIOS screen with the G. Skill ram in? Am I stuck with adjusting the BIOS settings with the Corsair ram, then swapping them out for the G.Skill ram before I can boot, in case I can't use those voltage/timing settings for both?


----------



## M3TAl

It never POSTS with the G SKill in? Or only when trying for tighter timings/more MHz?


----------



## OverclockerFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It never POSTS with the G SKill in? Or only when trying for tighter timings/more MHz?


Does not post with the G. Skill ram in;
does not show BIOS flash screen with G. Skill ram in;
does not show any monitor input response with G. Skill ram in;
does not pass GO;
does not collect $200.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OverclockerFox*
> 
> I tried changing the BIOS ram timings from the recommended timings for the Corsair ram, 9-9-9-27, to 10-12-12-31, the recommended timings for the G.Skill TridentX's. Voltage was set to account for Vdroop @1.675V.
> 
> And what do I do about the fact that it doesn't even show the BIOS screen with the G. Skill ram in? Am I stuck with adjusting the BIOS settings with the Corsair ram, then swapping them out for the G.Skill ram before I can boot, in case I can't use those voltage/timing settings for both?


i need your cpu/nb ( NB core ) speed and volts? also nb volts


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Using 4 dimms will require more voltage on the memory controller/CPU-NB, at least for higher memory speeds. A high memory multiplier probably wont work either. Might have to go with 1600 and OC with FSB to get close to 2400.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> While he is accurate about cpu/nb I was referring to actual ram volts 1.675 trends to be better (rather then 1.65 ) due to vdrop
> 
> but again your imc may not be able to do 4 dimms @2400


I would be super happy if i can run the 32GB at 1866 (4x8GB) and I party all night long if I can get 32GB at 2133.
I have Corsair 1.5V and Gskill 1.65V kits, its save to use 1.675V on the Corsairs?
How much volts on the memorya controller/CPU-NB?
I have my PC dismantled cleaning the mess that the koolance Black QDC4 dog poop edition left inside my loop. Already cleaned all blocks, rads. But the hose is tainted, the hose that was not in contact with the QDC is cristal clear. Maybe I will buy more and chang the tainted ones.


----------



## Mega Man

NB +0.1

CPU/NB +0.1-0.?


----------



## OverclockerFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i need your cpu/nb ( NB core ) speed and volts? also nb volts


CPU speed is 4.6 Ghz, Can't remember the voltage setting; it's been ages since I've tried tweaking it. Somewhere around 1.45 V, I think. NB voltage is stock. But I'm a bit confused; is the NB speed the bus speed? Because the BIOS doesn't describe it the same way you do; it lists the hypertransport speed, bus speed, NB voltage, PCI-E speed, etc.









By the way, I wanted to say thank you for being so helpful, Mega Man. It hasn't been the first time, either.


----------



## Mega Man

any time




NB core =CPU/NB= IMC ( integrated memory controller ) Volts

NB Voltage is actual northbridge on mobo ( volts )

cpu northbridge = cpu/NB = IMC speed

also CPU VDDA on gigabytes it tends to help to raise this to 2.695


----------



## ROKO__

Hello.
Yesterday i read this forum and see about F3H bios for my mobo. I installed this bios and there is noticeable improvement. For example 4.5GHz on FX 8320 on 1.412V
But doesnt see so large difference between 4.2GHz (maybe throtling i dont know). CPU Cooling Arctic Cooling Freezer A30

Temperatures at full load 62 - 65 degrees.

I wanna ask too for turbo overclock. if i want stock speed to be 4000MHz Turbo 1 state 4200 or something and 2 state 4500-4800 ?


----------



## ROKO__

With this settings and beta bios North Bridge and VRM's are noticeable cold than with F2, with F2 i was not able to touch it because of high temps.


----------



## OverclockerFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> any time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NB core =CPU/NB= IMC ( integrated memory controller ) Volts
> 
> NB Voltage is actual northbridge on mobo ( volts )
> 
> cpu northbridge = cpu/NB = IMC speed
> 
> also CPU VDDA on gigabytes it tends to help to raise this to 2.695


What sorcery is this? Do you have revision 3 or something? Or did the latest BIOS for the UD7 rev. 1.1 modify the BIOS into having a UEFI UI?


----------



## Mega Man

-i thought you had rev 3 >.>
sorry

names are roughly the same
NB vid Control =cpu/nb

NB voltage control NB

cpu NB freq = CPU/NB


----------



## OverclockerFox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> -i thought you had rev 3 >.>
> sorry
> 
> names are roughly the same
> NB vid Control =cpu/nb
> 
> NB voltage control NB
> 
> cpu NB freq = CPU/NB


Good to know, thanks!









I've been thinking it over, and maybe the board won't boot because the power demands from the IMC/NB being stressed by more memory mean that it won't show the boot screen.
I'll have to check that theory when I'm at my storage locker again. It's just sort of unsettling seeing that it won't even show the BIOS screen when the bigger dimms are put in... It's a strange problem that I haven't run into before. But then, I haven't bought very much DDR3; just a low-end 1333 mhz dimm, 4 corsair dimms, and now 4 G. Skill ones. So I don't have a ton of experience with memory troubleshooting.

EDIT:

Good news, everyone!
I have located a source for the rev. 3.0 990FXA-UD7!

Now... is it possible that if I email gigabyte and ask very nicely they'll give me a new board, since I already have a rev. 1.1? And also; would it be worth it for the improved feature set of the rev. 3.0 board over the rev. 1.1 that I have? If there's a chance that I'd have an easier time getting the new ram to work instead of using the corsair ram to adjust settings, swapping them out, and then staring at the monitor saying "NO INPUT" like it's had a stroke, maybe it would be worth it. Besides, if I wanted to buy a new high-end mainstream Intel mobo and CPU, that would be about $750, which is about 3 times as much as the new UD7 board would cost.


----------



## aaronsta1

on the UD3.. can you only control 2 fans from speedfan?

i cant seem to see what pwm3 does.. pwm1 is the CPU, and pwm2 is the SYS_FAN1 but pwm3 doesnt do anything to the fans i have connected to the other fan headers..

any idea?


----------



## M3TAl

There is only 1 true PWM header, the CPU header. The 4th pin on the others is a lie







.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> There is only 1 true PWM header, the CPU header. The 4th pin on the others is a lie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


no the other one works just fine on my board.. the trick is to set speedfan to "software controlled"

its the 3rd one that doesnt control any fans.. i know the other 2 are 3 pin, but they should do something..


----------



## M3TAl

Then they changed it from Rev 1.0, 1.1, and 1.2. On those there's only 1 true PWM.


----------



## madmat

I bought the GA990FXA-UD5 rev3.0 and set it up with 8 gigs of cl8 ddr3 1866 and my Phenom II 955 B.E.. With the stock bios it worked fine, I could adjust the multiplier to a leisurely 17.5 on stock voltages and get a stable 3.5Ghz. This morning I updated to the latest bios in anticipation of moving to one of the Vishera 8 core CPU's and now the board won't allow me to adjust the multiplier. I can set it to 17.5 but when the board posts it's at 16. Also when it gets into Windows, still at 16. If I change it with Easy Tune 6 it acts like it only changes the multiplier on the first core. Running in prime 95 cores 2-4 take far longer to complete work than core 1.

Any thoughts would be welcome because I'm seriously tempted to return the board and go with an ASUS M5A99FX Pro.


----------



## zila

Anybody try the new FCh bios for the GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev. 3 board yet?


----------



## madmat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Anybody try the new FCh bios for the GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev. 3 board yet?


That's the bios I installed this morning.


----------



## aaronsta1

i see a new F3i bios for the ud3.. anyone test it?


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmat*
> 
> That's the bios I installed this morning.


Okay, I might have to try that new bios myself then. That bios might not work as well with an old chip like a 965. You might have to revert back to an older bios and see what happens.

I'm gonna flash that new bios in tonight and see how it works with my FX-8320.

So far all the bios files created by Gigabyte for this board have sucked big time making an other wise nice board perform poorly.


----------



## madmat

Let me know how it goes. I'm going to be getting the 8320e which requires the bios I flashed to. If it plays nicely with your 8320 then I'll revert for the time being and go back to the FCh bios when the time comes. If you encounter the same issue I'm having then I guess it's back to the store it goes.


----------



## zila

Did you try using the +/- keys to change the multiplier settings in the bios?

Edit: I have it all flashed in and all is well, in fact I like this bios. I may bring this board back out of moth balls now.


----------



## aaronsta1

I put the new bios on the ud3 rev4.
You have to disable cpb and apm to get the board to boot up at the multiplier you choose.. Also setting the llc to medium causes the board not to post.

They took out the double boot thing.


----------



## madmat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Did you try using the +/- keys to change the multiplier settings in the bios?
> 
> Edit: I have it all flashed in and all is well, in fact I like this bios. I may bring this board back out of moth balls now.


Oh, it lets me set the multiplier to whatever setting I want but then when it posts the mutiplier is still at 16. Look in the bios and in the setting field it shows 17.5 but looking in the system display in the performance tab it is definitely sitting at 16. It's just completely bizarre. I'm at work now or I'd try taking a pic of it to show what I'm seeing but when I get back home I'll get a shot of it and post up. After that I'm going to try clearing the cmos and start with a clean slate. The @bios utility cleared the cmos after the flash but maybe a hard reset will be better. I'm new to Givabyte boards, I've been using ASUS boards since 2001. If they hadn't burned me on an RMA a few years ago I would've just went with one of theirs this time.


----------



## zila

Yeah, I just noticed that disabling CPB no longer causes the boot loop. That's nice. And disabling APM works well.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Yeah, I just noticed that disabling CPB no longer causes the boot loop. That's nice. And disabling APM works well.


yeah but for some reason when i set LLC to medium and hit f10 to save and exit the board doesnt post and i have to reset bios.

without LLC i have to set the volt hella high.. i dunno if thats good or not.


----------



## aaronsta1

Well I'm back to f2. I can't get my computer to boot up at 4.7 on this bios.


----------



## aaronsta1

what do you guys think a good safe VRM temp is for the ud3 rev4?

on a stress test with IBT they get hot at 4.7.. around 85c

id hate to see how hot they get with a real cpu, like the fx 9590


----------



## Regnitto

I try not to go over 80c on mine, but I've seen it go over 100c once. My opinion 85c max, at least that's what I'm comfortable with.


----------



## madmat

I flashed my bios back to the same version as what it came with (I stupidly did not back it up) and the overclocking issue is now fixed but my CPU core temperature reporting via software is FUBAR. I mean everything from Corsair LINK to Speedfan to Easy Tune show my core as running at 0*c. How does a company as inept at writing firmware for their products stay in business? I honestly can't even fathom that.


----------



## reeven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> From time to time i see usb problems on ud5 and ud3 rev4 board.
> Bought an logi keyboard wireless, k350 curved, if i plug it into back usb, i get lag when write. I need to plug it into case usb.
> Yesterday bought an Redragon Perdition Mouse( non wired), plug it into back usb, today when pc start cant see the cursor, it was near lcd right panel hided and something was keeping it there.
> Unplug mouse and it start working.
> 
> Videos here:
> 
> https://vid.me/jY7L
> 
> https://vid.me/Z7qU
> 
> If i plug this Redragon mouse into case usb, or usb hub, cursor is ok.
> Third, usb dvbc tuner, i have 8 of them, msi, hauupauge, terratec, etc, if i plug it into back usb 2.0, 3.0, i get artifacts on image.
> Four, external WD hdd that get bluscreens when ;plug into back usb3.0 .Via says that they dont have those hdd, Gigabyte says stupid things like update drivers and WD says its not their fault.
> I have 10 external hdd, only WD has bluscreens on this. Toshiba, Verbatim, Adata are ok on usb 3.0 via vl805.
> Five, my Logitech mx revolution mouse, plug in the back i get lag, i keep it into usb hub.
> 
> Before these amd board i have only Intel from 2005, but i used laptops amds and there all was ok with usb periphals
> 
> Any of this devices if i plug them into usb hub or usb case all are good. Gigabyte support is zero.
> 
> Regarding board stability, i see an awfull bug from time to time, i start PC in the morning, no info appear at bios screen, nothing, it stay with black screen all day. If i reset the bios all are ok. It does that every 1-2 months at cold boot. No image appear, no info about processor speed, nothing.
> I reported this bug second day when i bought ud3 rev4. I receive this bug in the first day caming from shop


Finally "fix" this bug somehow. Driver verifier was on, set by me long time ago when i bought bunch of external WD my passport slim or ultra 2.5 drivers and get bluscreens with them on usb 3.0.. With it ON, i get bluscreens when plug something into usb3, dvbc tuners get discontinuties, wireless devices get lag ,webcam cannot stream 1080 etc.
So its gigabyte via vl805 and drivers problem. Till they fix it, VIA engineers tell me to disable driver verifier.
They say they found something to test from my minidumps.

Regarding gigabyte amd usb 2.0, maybe its their 3x power implementation problem, when wireless get lags.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> what do you guys think a good safe VRM temp is for the ud3 rev4?
> 
> on a stress test with IBT they get hot at 4.7.. around 85c
> 
> id hate to see how hot they get with a real cpu, like the fx 9590


A typical mosfet usually blows up somewhere around 120C. The 3.0 and 4.0 have vrm protection anyway right? Shouldn't be much of a concern.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> A typical mosfet usually blows up somewhere around 120C. The 3.0 and 4.0 have vrm protection anyway right? Shouldn't be much of a concern.


From my experience the VRM protection you speak of is hard coded throttling of the CPU when VRM temps get near/above 90c. When I keep my VRM temp under 80-85c I don't throttle.

I am using the UD3 rev 4.0


----------



## madmat

The past couple of days have been an adventure. Sunday, in anticipation of getting a new CPU (something else is in the works) that requires the latest bios I updated to what I thought was the latest beta bios. It wasn't, it was something they'd put out that was buggy. (FCg) I no longer had core temp reporting and my multiplier would no longer change. I could adjust it but it wouldn't take.

I flashed back to the original bios and the core temp reporting was still gone. Everything else worked as it should though but without the core temp I wasn't too happy since I set a custom fan profile on my H100i and use the core temp as the basis of my fan speeds.

I downloaded the latest beta bios (made sure it wasn't what I'd already tried) and flashed to it. I went into reboot loop hell. The board would power on, off, on, off, etc and after a few minutes would occasionally boot into windows. Other times it would say that the bios failed and prompt me to load defaults and try again upon which it would fail and fail again. At least core temp reporting was back.

I finally got it flashed back to the original bios and now it's stable, my core temp is back and everything is fine but here's the problem, I HAVE to use the latest bios for the CPU that's going into it. I called Gigabyte and told the tech support guy what I'd gone through and asked "So, am I going to be going through the same thing with the new FX-xxxx on that bios or is it a case of it not playing nice with my 955 B.E.?" His answer? And I quote "You bought your board where? Okay, what's the return period?" That does not bode well.


----------



## Mega Man

better question what board do you have and what CPU are you getting ?


----------



## madmat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> better question what board do you have and what CPU are you getting ?


I have the GA990FXA-UD5 Rev 3.0 and I'm getting an 8320e which requires the FCh bios.

(just in case that was aimed at me)


----------



## bobarune

I've had my 990FXA-UD5 rev 1.1 (Bios is F12 which is the latest) with my FX-8350 in my system for about a year now. Just in the past couple months, I have thought about trying to overclock it. I had a Cooler Master Hyper Evo 212 on it when I first tried to overclock but none of the speeds I was trying to get to were stable and/or had temperature issues. Thinking the cooler wasn't good enough for overclocking, somewhere down the line, I got a Corsair H100i for it. Tried overclocking and still couldn't get a modest overclock of 4.3 GHz. I gave up and just set the bios to set the "Optimized Defaults"/Stock values.

About a week ago, I was trying to transcode a video with vlc and I got a BSOD 5 minutes in with a WHEA_UNCORECTABLE_ERROR which I know can happen when things overheat because it was happening when I was overclocking before. I was disappointed that on stock values it could still BSOD like that. I was thinking that the mosfets, vrm, and northbrigde are overheating because the heatsinks were hot to the touch. I also know that water coolers can make these hotter since there is possible less air movement around the cpu area.

These past few days, I was trying to overclock again with no success so I returned to stock values and tried to run prime95 on Small FFTs and Intel Burn Test on Standard. Both froze my computer within ten seconds. This makes it seem that my system is unstable on stock values. It doesn't crash when gaming which is why I've been in the dark on how unstable it is.

Since I'm still a noob at overclocking, I've tried following these guides:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MckeAmnDeTk&index=6&list=FLQ-_oVzHhK7eth9-_r2Ladg

My questions are:
Is this motherboard not really capable of powering the FX-8350? Did I get the crappy end of the quality stick when buying this CPU? Is there something wrong with the motherboard?

If the motherboard isn't capable of powering the chip or something is wrong, my option is to get a new motherboard. Another option is switching teams but that is much more expensive.

TL;DR My 8350 can't overclock at all and is unstable at stock; Motherboard, CPU issues? Switch teams?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> better question what board do you have and what CPU are you getting ?
> 
> 
> 
> I have the GA990FXA-UD5 Rev 3.0 and I'm getting an 8320e which requires the FCh bios.
> 
> (just in case that was aimed at me)
Click to expand...

you shouldnt really need a bios update
it is just a 83xx binned differently

i would say just try it without the update
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobarune*
> 
> I've had my 990FXA-UD5 rev 1.1 (Bios is F12 which is the latest) with my FX-8350 in my system for about a year now. Just in the past couple months, I have thought about trying to overclock it. I had a Cooler Master Hyper Evo 212 on it when I first tried to overclock but none of the speeds I was trying to get to were stable and/or had temperature issues. Thinking the cooler wasn't good enough for overclocking, somewhere down the line, I got a Corsair H100i for it. Tried overclocking and still couldn't get a modest overclock of 4.3 GHz. I gave up and just set the bios to set the "Optimized Defaults"/Stock values.
> 
> About a week ago, I was trying to transcode a video with vlc and I got a BSOD 5 minutes in with a WHEA_UNCORECTABLE_ERROR which I know can happen when things overheat because it was happening when I was overclocking before. I was disappointed that on stock values it could still BSOD like that. I was thinking that the mosfets, vrm, and northbrigde are overheating because the heatsinks were hot to the touch. I also know that water coolers can make these hotter since there is possible less air movement around the cpu area.
> 
> These past few days, I was trying to overclock again with no success so I returned to stock values and tried to run prime95 on Small FFTs and Intel Burn Test on Standard. Both froze my computer within ten seconds. This makes it seem that my system is unstable on stock values. It doesn't crash when gaming which is why I've been in the dark on how unstable it is.
> 
> Since I'm still a noob at overclocking, I've tried following these guides:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MckeAmnDeTk&index=6&list=FLQ-_oVzHhK7eth9-_r2Ladg
> 
> My questions are:
> Is this motherboard not really capable of powering the FX-8350? Did I get the crappy end of the quality stick when buying this CPU? Is there something wrong with the motherboard?
> 
> If the motherboard isn't capable of powering the chip or something is wrong, my option is to get a new motherboard. Another option is switching teams but that is much more expensive.
> 
> TL;DR My 8350 can't overclock at all and is unstable at stock; Motherboard, CPU issues? Switch teams?


please fill out rig builder ( see my sig ) could be several things from ram to cooling


----------



## bobarune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you shouldnt really need a bios update
> it is just a 83xx binned differently
> 
> i would say just try it without the update
> please fill out rig builder ( see my sig ) could be several things from ram to cooling


I already did that before I posted. I was lurking as Guest before yesterday. I'll run Memtest86 tonight. I feel like this is probably a cooling issue.


----------



## madmat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you shouldnt really need a bios update
> it is just a 83xx binned differently
> 
> i would say just try it without the update


The thing is I'm reviewing the 8320e for a site I write for and I really need to be able to push it fairly hard and more importantly, be assured that it will indeed work. I've got about 3 weeks remaining on the 30 day return period on this board and what with the holidays and CES there's no telling if the CPU is going to make it here for me to experiment on with this board on time. This was also explained to the tech support rep at Gigabyte and that's when he told me to return the board since he could not say with any certainty the CPU/board/bios would function properly.

I've had generally good luck with ASUS boards but a few years back I had one fail on me out of the blue (turned it off one night, went to boot it the next day and nothing, no post, no beep not even a fan twitch) and since it was under warranty I RMA'd it. The replacement board was one that they'd repaired, poorly. It had a mismatched ram slot which couldn't recognize when a stick of ram was put into it and one of the USB headers was completely dead. The USB header wouldn't have been a huge issue if it weren't for the fact that it was the header that the wireless NIC docked on (The board was an M2N32 SLI Deluxe Wireless) which rendered the point of buying a board with "onboard" wireless moot. When I tried to get them to do something about it I was basically told that the board worked and I was stuck with it.

Yes, that's a non-sequitur but it's why I had decided to forgo the ASUS offerings (Sabertooth or M5A99FX Pro) and settled on the board I've got now simply to try going with a company that might offer me better service after the sale. Now that I've basically been told to cut my losses directly by a Gigabyte rep I'm reconsidering my position on the ASUS offerings.


----------



## bobarune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobarune*
> 
> I already did that before I posted. I was lurking as Guest before yesterday. I'll run Memtest86 tonight. I feel like this is probably a cooling issue.


Memtest86 said pass complete, no errors. Maybe my revision of this motherboard is just not as capable.


----------



## Devil Inc

Hello All, I have a quick question, Google has failed me. I currently have a UD3 mobo, running SLI 780s and am thinking about adding a 750Ti to the mix to handle Physx. Anything I should be looking at or for? Will the overall PCIE bus speeds drop? Thanks

Pic of current build.


----------



## max3232

Hello everybody,

I have a bunch of basic, beginner questions.. I hope they aren't dumb ones.

I have a GA990FXA-UD5 Rev 4.0 / FX 6300 / HD7870 setup. I am basically doing a scientific visualization and remote sensing project and its cpu intensive and I'm finding that even incremental improvements in performance help.

I currently have 16 GB of 1600 MHz GSkill DDR3 bought in a bundle with the MB, last year on Black Friday, and it was highly rated. (I think it is "G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600" type. When i select Profile 1 it sets the memory speed to 1600 Mhz.)

I think it is specified as CAS 10

I need to increase it to the full 32 GB and will do that pretty soon. I'd like to get some suggestions as to that with an eye to a good balance between value and overclock-ability.

Another important thing that I am wondering, is it possible to put more than just another 16 GB into the machine? Ive exceeded the manufacturers memory limit with my Apple laptop and it works fine. _Is it possible to do that with the Gigabyte - run these MBs with more than 32 GB or RAM, maintaining stability?_

??

Assuming no, I need to know if buying anything other than what I have in there now makes sense, as I see that "faster" RAM is now selling for less than it was last year. memory interleaving goes by pairs, right? So does that mean that if I get faster RAM, the MB will use it to its best advantage? Or not?

Should I first (before installing the second 16 GB) try to do what i can to improve memory performance with my current memory?

Or should I just wait and do both at the same time.

Also, reading this thread- improving memory timings is harder when you have 32 GB than 16, right? How big of a problem is that? If so, should I just buy solid performing 1600 Mhz memory for the second 16 GB?

My second question is what's a reliable, worry free way to eke a bit more performance out of the FX6300 without running into thermal issues?

*I don't have a huge cooler on the machine, i have a low profile Noctua*.

Which is super quiet and I like that _a lot_ as my previous Linux desktop (an Athlon 64 which i used for a very long time) was really noisy. Am i asking for too much to be able to have a major surge capacity on this machine which can kick in from time to time?

I have a 630 watt "green" power supply so all is fine there, I think. I dont know how much this will help but the case has spots for as many as four more case fans, should I want them. When i bought the machine I got four matching low noise case fans and currently I am only using one.. I could add them. two on the side and one in front.They are already quiet and the MB also can adjust the speed.

Even running on 12volts, with no adjustment, they are almost silent.

So i need to know what can be done to give the CPU a performance boost while maintaining it's stability and quietness, with the low profile cooler.

So







I guess my needs are basically the same as any of yours, except that you folks are old hands at this and I know next to nothing about it.

I'm probably one of the older folks here. My last overclock was probably more than a decade ago it was done with a graphite pencil and an old Athlon. (that worked great!) Showing my age here.

I'm running Linux, I dont even have Windows on the machine. I do have memtest86 on there. I can boot into it and can and will run memtest86 all night just to verify that whatever I set it to is going to be stable for me running under load.

Quiet is important. I would be extremely happy if I could get a stable and worry-free 20-25% increase in performance, with the extra case fans automatically kicking in as needed. That would be just a fabulous Christmas gift, actually. Like getting an 8 core machine, except on non-multithreaded apps, perhaps even better, if it can remain stable to a higher clock speed.

So, thats it.

**THANK YOU** This site has some great resources. Just scanning this thread has been really useful already.

. Sorry to ask so much in one post.










Chris.


----------



## dice65

i guys , i have a problem , i have the gigabyte 990 fxa ud3 version 4 with a amd 8320 , for the life of me i cannot get this board to overclock the 8320 at all , it will not go past the bios , i have aftermarket cooling to ,, i just got this combo about 3 mo ago , runs stock just fine , now i had the same board version 1.1 with a 8120 and could clock it to 4 gig all day long , anyone else have this problem with version 4 ? thanks

steve


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> i guys , i have a problem , i have the gigabyte 990 fxa ud3 version 4 with a amd 8320 , for the life of me i cannot get this board to overclock the 8320 at all , it will not go past the bios , i have aftermarket cooling to ,, i just got this combo about 3 mo ago , runs stock just fine , now i had the same board version 1.1 with a 8120 and could clock it to 4 gig all day long , anyone else have this problem with version 4 ? thanks
> 
> steve


Could be any number of things. It would probably be easiest if you show everyone some screenshots of your BIOS settings used when trying to OC.


----------



## dice65

let me know if you need anything else ,thanks

steve


----------



## dice65

id like to get the cpu to run at 4 g all the time or even bump up the turbo a little but when i try it just crashes ,, even the memory is set to run at 2133z but cpu-z is showing 1600


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> i guys , i have a problem , i have the gigabyte 990 fxa ud3 version 4 with a amd 8320 , for the life of me i cannot get this board to overclock the 8320 at all , it will not go past the bios , i have aftermarket cooling to ,, i just got this combo about 3 mo ago , runs stock just fine , now i had the same board version 1.1 with a 8120 and could clock it to 4 gig all day long , anyone else have this problem with version 4 ? thanks
> 
> steve


do you have the newest bios??
i tried the newest one, and had the same problem as you..

i went back to the F2 bios and its working now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> id like to get the cpu to run at 4 g all the time or even bump up the turbo a little but when i try it just crashes ,, even the memory is set to run at 2133z but cpu-z is showing 1600


please fill out rig builder ! ( see my sig )

also the first things that jump out at me is 100% llc ( extreme ?, will need some help from people with this board ) take to ~ 50% ( high )

also bump your ram volts a few bumps ~ 1.610 to compensate for vdroop

lastly shut off apm


----------



## AdmiralAwesome

So I'm not sure if I should make a new thread for this or where exactly to make it, but I had my GA 990FXX UD3 burn a capacitor and I'm determined on trying to fix it. I just wanted to know if anyone had any tips, or precautions. It's just a single capacitor by the VRM and so I'm guessing I simply take it out with a soldering iron and just put another one of the same rating back.


----------



## zila

Is it a thru hole cap or surface mounted cap?


----------



## AdmiralAwesome

through hole. Here's a picture of the particular cap, I tilted it compared to the other ones so you can see it's only attached with one leg.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> i guys , i have a problem , i have the gigabyte 990 fxa ud3 version 4 with a amd 8320 , for the life of me i cannot get this board to overclock the 8320 at all , it will not go past the bios , i have aftermarket cooling to ,, i just got this combo about 3 mo ago , runs stock just fine , now i had the same board version 1.1 with a 8120 and could clock it to 4 gig all day long , anyone else have this problem with version 4 ? thanks
> 
> steve


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> do you have the newest bios??
> i tried the newest one, and had the same problem as you..
> 
> i went back to the F2 bios and its working now.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> please fill out rig builder ! ( see my sig )
> 
> also the first things that jump out at me is 100% llc ( extreme ?, will need some help from people with this board ) take to ~ 50% ( high )
> 
> also bump your ram volts a few bumps ~ 1.610 to compensate for vdroop
> 
> lastly shut off apm


I am running a UD3 Rev. 4 with an FX-6100. Here are a few suggestions based on my experience with overclocking on this board:

1. like @Mega Man said, turn off apm. It prevents the cpu from going beyond it's max TDP, which will prevent you from getting stability when overclocking.
2. I find I have better results with HPC turned on while overclocking (High Performance Computing Mode).
3. Set your LLC to medium or extreme. Be careful if you use extreme though. Instead of a vdroop, you will get vboost on load, and will thus have to dial back your base vcore setting to avoid overshooting your voltage when under load creating excess heat and potential damage. I get approximately .07v vboost when running extreme LLC. (1.53v idle/1.598v load). Medium LLC gives a slight vdroop and will require a slightly higher vcore setting to achieve the same voltage. Leaving it on auto will create a huge vdroop that will make stability near to impossible (same with the other LLC settings I didn't mention)
4. Leave Core Performance Boost on Auto, and set the CPB Multi = CPU Multi
5. Set your DRAM Voltage slightly higher than what you want to compensate vdroop as @Mega Man said. I set mine at 1.520v to achieve 1.500v after vdroop.

Using this outline as a basis for my overclocking, I am running 4.8ghz on my FX-6100 19.5x247. Here's some screens of my bios. Hope this helps and happy overclocking!


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> 4. Leave Core Performance Boost on Auto, and set the CPB Multi = CPU Multi
> ]


this causes my board, ud3 rev4 to not go above 20.5 multi even with APM turned off..

i had to disable it and just use the core multi.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> this causes my board, ud3 rev4 to not go above 20.5 multi even with APM turned off..
> 
> i had to disable it and just use the core multi.


I've not run into that issue. I get a double post if I disable cpb


----------



## zila

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdmiralAwesome*
> 
> through hole. Here's a picture of the particular cap, I tilted it compared to the other ones so you can see it's only attached with one leg.
> 
> Those are easier to do in my opinion. Just make sure you have the right type of replacement cap, don't reverse the positive and negative and take your time with it.


----------



## rinkol

Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronsta1 View Post

do you have the newest bios??
i tried the newest one, and had the same problem as you..

i went back to the F2 bios and its working now.

I found that the new F3i bios for the Ga-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 is seriously flawed. After booting Windows 8.1, I suspect there was a cooling issue resulting from insufficient fan speed as I observed throttling under fairly benign conditions. Worse still, after waking from sleep, the CPU fan ran slowly or even stopped and rapid overheating resulted. Reverting to the F2 bios seemed to fix these problems.

If you were trying to overclock, i could easily imagine that your CPU would rapidly overheat and the computer shut down.


----------



## hajnalka

AdmiralAwesome you problem in this Picture is overheating mybe capacitator is dead leaking cap.This white background colour go to yellow color close to mosfet vrm heatsink.
When start trottling vrm temperature is close 100Celsius or more.
This Picture is my watercooled ud3 rev3 fx8350 overclock 4850Mhz


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> AdmiralAwesome you problem in this Picture is overheating mybe capacitator is dead leaking cap.This white background colour go to yellow color close to mosfet vrm heatsink.
> When start trottling vrm temperature is close 100Celsius or more.
> This Picture is my watercooled ud3 rev3 fx8350 overclock 4850Mhz


Unrelated but I hope you have the nylon washer on the backside too which is where it is really needed. Don't really need one on the topside of the board.

Still haven't got around to testing to see if this board still works, just haven't had the time. It's just been sitting on a table.


----------



## dice65

i think i got a bad board , i have tried everything you guys said to , i had version F2 , now i have tried the new F3 with same problems ,, i have not overclocked anything at all , just have the stuff turned off as per everyone and no boot ,, i click on enter bios ,, i can then click on exit without saving and it will boot ,, i will never buy this board again !! here is a pic of the no boot ,, and this is on a cold start or even if its been on for a hour


----------



## dice65

cpu z has my core speed at 3516mhz , also , i did the rig builder thing , can you guys see it ?? , think ill try to reload version F2 back in and see what happenes , thanks for all your help !! time to buy a better board or go the intell root , ive always been amd but might be time for a change


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> cpu z has my core speed at 3516mhz , also , i did the rig builder thing , can you guys see it ?? , think ill try to reload version F2 back in and see what happenes , thanks for all your help !! time to buy a better board or go the intell root , ive always been amd but might be time for a change


Can't see your rig. You need to edit signature and select your rig in the drop down menu in the bottom right.


----------



## AdmiralAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> cpu z has my core speed at 3516mhz , also , i did the rig builder thing , can you guys see it ?? , think ill try to reload version F2 back in and see what happenes , thanks for all your help !! time to buy a better board or go the intell root , ive always been amd but might be time for a change


I saw you were also trying to crank ram up to 2133. I'm not so sure if revision 4 is any different but I swore the UD3 could only handle ram speeds of up to 2000. If you've been trying to increase ram this whole time, I'd suggest to keep it at 1600 while you're messing with the cpu. If you try to go over 2000 (and if it indeed doesn't support it) then you're going to be unable to boot every time. I would know, I made the mistake of buying 2133 RAM as well with this board.

Also not to sound rude or anything, but overclocking is a meticulous hobby. My very first time overclocking the FX 6100 was spent by about 2 weeks in a room, continuously tweaking a cpu and running stress test programs over and over. Being scared of having a burnt CPU -- twice, and lots of restarting. I'm no expert, far from it, as even after my first overclock I still feel that I know nothing; However I do understand the patience and dedication something like this requires. If you're gonna hit your first snag, blame the mobo and give up, I'd rethinking your desire for overclocking, and possibly paying someone to build you a gaming rig.

If you haven't noticed, this whole thread is consisted of people who have the same board you have (or UD5/7) and very much are happy to own it. So unless it's an accidental issue with your particular motherboard (which is very much possible, no factory is perfect) then you have much proof of how viable this board is.


----------



## dice65

admiral i agree , i buy the higher ram so when i run it at 1866 i can lower the timings lol ,, even with the ram at 1600 it still wont boot right up ,i had version 1.1 an sold the hole system , i had the 8120 running over 4 gig easy ,never had a problem with that one , its gotta be something stupid im missing i hope ,ill keep trying ,,thank you guys for the help !!

steve


----------



## AdmiralAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> AdmiralAwesome you problem in this Picture is overheating mybe capacitator is dead leaking cap.This white background colour go to yellow color close to mosfet vrm heatsink.
> When start trottling vrm temperature is close 100 Celsius or more.


I'm not quite sure if you're trying to give me a suggestion or what... I know it was due to overheating, as I originally posted. I was using the FX 9590 which wasn't compatible, especially with the stock heat sink. It doesn't seem like anything leaked though, and the capacitor itself is intact. The yellowing probably is the heat but also the fact that the board is over 4 years old. I ordered a new board for my FX 9590 and when/if I get this fixed, I'll just put my FX 6100 which worked fine in it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rinkol*
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by aaronsta1 View Post
> 
> do you have the newest bios??
> i tried the newest one, and had the same problem as you..
> 
> i went back to the F2 bios and its working now.
> 
> I found that the new F3i bios for the Ga-990FXA-UD3 rev 4.0 is seriously flawed. After booting Windows 8.1, I suspect there was a cooling issue resulting from insufficient fan speed as I observed throttling under fairly benign conditions. Worse still, after waking from sleep, the CPU fan ran slowly or even stopped and rapid overheating resulted. Reverting to the F2 bios seemed to fix these problems.
> 
> If you were trying to overclock, i could easily imagine that your CPU would rapidly overheat and the computer shut down.


aquaero ... no more overheating








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> i think i got a bad board , i have tried everything you guys said to , i had version F2 , now i have tried the new F3 with same problems ,, i have not overclocked anything at all , just have the stuff turned off as per everyone and no boot ,, i click on enter bios ,, i can then click on exit without saving and it will boot ,, i will never buy this board again !! here is a pic of the no boot ,, and this is on a cold start or even if its been on for a hour


sounds to me like
1 the board is doing what it needs to and is functioning perfectly
2 you are changing something you shouldnt and overclocking
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> cpu z has my core speed at 3516mhz , also , i did the rig builder thing , can you guys see it ?? , think ill try to reload version F2 back in and see what happenes , thanks for all your help !! time to buy a better board or go the intell root , ive always been amd but might be time for a change


yes i can see it works well tyvm
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdmiralAwesome*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> cpu z has my core speed at 3516mhz , also , i did the rig builder thing , can you guys see it ?? , think ill try to reload version F2 back in and see what happenes , thanks for all your help !! time to buy a better board or go the intell root , ive always been amd but might be time for a change
> 
> 
> 
> I saw you were also trying to crank ram up to 2133. I'm not so sure if revision 4 is any different but I swore the UD3 could only handle ram speeds of up to 2000. If you've been trying to increase ram this whole time, I'd suggest to keep it at 1600 while you're messing with the cpu. If you try to go over 2000 (and if it indeed doesn't support it) then you're going to be unable to boot every time. I would know, I made the mistake of buying 2133 RAM as well with this board.
> 
> Also not to sound rude or anything, but overclocking is a meticulous hobby. My very first time overclocking the FX 6100 was spent by about 2 weeks in a room, continuously tweaking a cpu and running stress test programs over and over. Being scared of having a burnt CPU -- twice, and lots of restarting. I'm no expert, far from it, as even after my first overclock I still feel that I know nothing; However I do understand the patience and dedication something like this requires. If you're gonna hit your first snag, blame the mobo and give up, I'd rethinking your desire for overclocking, and possibly paying someone to build you a gaming rig.
> 
> If you haven't noticed, this whole thread is consisted of people who have the same board you have (or UD5/7) and very much are happy to own it. So unless it's an accidental issue with your particular motherboard (which is very much possible, no factory is perfect) then you have much proof of how viable this board is.
Click to expand...

i have yet to have a problem on ANY board with 2400 ram but ram is the last thing you should ever oc !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> admiral i agree , i buy the higher ram so when i run it at 1866 i can lower the timings lol ,, even with the ram at 1600 it still wont boot right up ,i had version 1.1 an sold the hole system , i had the 8120 running over 4 gig easy ,never had a problem with that one , its gotta be something stupid im missing i hope ,ill keep trying ,,thank you guys for the help !!
> 
> steve


ram is the last thing you should oc, just because one cpu used your ram at "x" speeds/timings does not mean another can/will.

if the ram compatible ?

are you trying your old settings right away ? ( big mistake ) ram is the most frustrating thing to oc and takes lots of time


----------



## dice65

i just spent a hour on the phone with gigabyte ,, the only way this board works is with the defaults loaded ,, if i even try one little change like turning off cool an quiet it will not load !! they want me to rma it ,,just my luck to get stuck with a lemon ,, whats a better board to try ? ill order one tonight off newegg , thanks for all your help guys !!

steve


----------



## zila

If I was looking for FX board I would go with the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 or the Crosshair V Formula-Z.


----------



## dice65

ok i got it down to the LLC , if i type in 0 , it says extrrme , 50 it says medium and 100 is low , now ,i have tried 0,50, 100 , and it will not boot ,, only if i type in AUTO will it boot ,, i have also noticed that when i try anything other than auto my vcore volts drops to 1.333 or close to that , i tried to manually type in the volts at 1.4100 and still no boot ,, so its gotta be something with the electric phasing maybe ? my HX750 not strong enough ?


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> ok i got it down to the LLC , if i type in 0 , it says extrrme , 50 it says medium and 100 is low , now ,i have tried 0,50, 100 , and it will not boot ,, only if i type in AUTO will it boot ,, i have also noticed that when i try anything other than auto my vcore volts drops to 1.333 or close to that , i tried to manually type in the volts at 1.4100 and still no boot ,, so its gotta be something with the electric phasing maybe ? my HX750 not strong enough ?


i had t hat same problem, it was the new bios.. go back to f2.. reset it by jumper the pins on the board and you should be good to go.


----------



## dice65

aaronsta1 , thanks !! worked for about 10minutes ,, turned off turbo an set the clock to 20 ,booted right into windows at 4gig ,, turned it off for about 2 hours and when i turned it back on i got the error again as in the one pic ,, so i went into bios ,changed nothing ,, clicked on exit without saving to get back into windows ,, now right at this minute my cpu vcore is showing 1.416 v ,it was at 1.3 on 1st reboot ,, windows an cpu z showing it at 4gig now , i dont understand why it wont just go into windows ,, ill bet i got a used board from newegg ,, thanks again for your help !!

steve


----------



## dice65

this is what cpu z is showing right now , i have all power saving settings turned off also


----------



## dice65

also the first things that jump out at me is 100% llc ( extreme ?, will need some help from people with this board ) take to ~ 50% ( high )

also bump your ram volts a few bumps ~ 1.610 to compensate for vdroop

lastly shut off apm[/quote]

why no matter what i type in for LLC it always shows 100% after reboot ? i tried bumping up the ram like you said to 1.6 ,, that was a no go at the stock 1600 mhz , was able to go to 1.55 before it locked up the hole system an would not boot at all


----------



## Mega Man

please, you use a pc, dont use your cell phone.....
snipping tool use search bar in windows ~!

second

use hwinfo64 not hardware monitor

third, you care changing large amounts of things ( IE MORE THEN ONE ) without knowing what they do/ or what they effect which is a no go


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> also the first things that jump out at me is 100% llc ( extreme ?, will need some help from people with this board ) take to ~ 50% ( high )
> 
> also bump your ram volts a few bumps ~ 1.610 to compensate for vdroop
> 
> lastly shut off apm
> 
> why no matter what i type in for LLC it always shows 100% after reboot ? i tried bumping up the ram like you said to 1.6 ,, that was a no go at the stock 1600 mhz , was able to go to 1.55 before it locked up the hole system an would not boot at all


the 100% LLC reading in the bios is showing you the default setting, what you input (extreme, medium etc...) is what it will actually run.


----------



## AdmiralAwesome

just got around to trying to fix this motherboard that blew. I wanted to see if anyone with more experience with capacitors could double check the specs of this capacitor I'm trying to replace.



Here's the picture again. I'm not sure if that's 270 Farads at 16V or what that 15G stands for. Any help is appreciated


----------



## hajnalka

PCB is a multilayer hard change capacitator what is connection of layer.15G is maybe manufacturer code Tayo yuden Nichicon atd...

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/16V-270F-8x8-Conductive-Polymer-Solid-Aluminum-Capacitors/680910384.html

RL101 is manufacturer code.

When you try change cap need voltage 16V capacity 270F more 280-290F no problem dimension cap must is same of original.


----------



## AdmiralAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hajnalka*
> 
> PCB is a multilayer hard change capacitator what is connection of layer.15G is maybe manufacturer code Tayo yuden Nichicon atd...
> 
> http://www.aliexpress.com/item/16V-270F-8x8-Conductive-Polymer-Solid-Aluminum-Capacitors/680910384.html
> 
> RL101 is manufacturer code.
> 
> When you try change cap need voltage 16V capacity 270F more 280-290F no problem dimension cap must is same of original.


Thanks for the quick reply. I hope radio shack has them since It's so close to my house.

oh I was having trouble because I thought it was 270 Farads, not micro Farads. We would use Micro Farads in my circuits class, but I wasn't sure if that was the same specs that was used in real life systems.

bleh, and now that I look, there's a lot of different model numbers, I finally found this page which seems to have a lot. How do I know which is best? Does it matter all that much?

http://www.mouser.com/United-Chemi-Con-UCC/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Polymer-Capacitors/Aluminum-Organic-Polymer-Capacitors/_/N-bjufe?P=1z0x6edZ1z0zl7sZ1yx7pkcZ1z0wriy&Ns=Capacitance%7c1


----------



## Chargeit

I moved my Back up rig with a 990FXA-UD5 rev 3 into my living room to use as a steam streaming rig. I was looking into setting it up to turn on by mouse and keyboard. I set it up to do so and it isn't working. I'm assuming this has sometime to do with the USB not being powered on when off. Is there any way to set the usb to powered on while turned off? I searched through the bios but couldn't find anything for USB always on.

I guess I could just set the system to sleep, but, I'd prefer not to.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I moved my Back up rig with a 990FXA-UD5 rev 3 into my living room to use as a steam streaming rig. I was looking into setting it up to turn on by mouse and keyboard. I set it up to do so and it isn't working. I'm assuming this has sometime to do with the USB not being powered on when off. Is there any way to set the usb to powered on while turned off? I searched through the bios but couldn't find anything for USB always on.
> 
> I guess I could just set the system to sleep, but, I'd prefer not to.


Don't really know but maybe this will do something?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdmiralAwesome*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. I hope radio shack has them since It's so close to my house.
> 
> oh I was having trouble because I thought it was 270 Farads, not micro Farads. We would use Micro Farads in my circuits class, but I wasn't sure if that was the same specs that was used in real life systems.
> 
> bleh, and now that I look, there's a lot of different model numbers, I finally found this page which seems to have a lot. How do I know which is best? Does it matter all that much?
> 
> http://www.mouser.com/United-Chemi-Con-UCC/Passive-Components/Capacitors/Polymer-Capacitors/Aluminum-Organic-Polymer-Capacitors/_/N-bjufe?P=1z0x6edZ1z0zl7sZ1yx7pkcZ1z0wriy&Ns=Capacitance%7c1


Should be MicroFarads. 270 Farads would outsize the Board methinks.









Considering this 1.5 Farad Cap used by Car Audio Enthusiasts.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Don't really know but maybe this will do something?


Yea, I took a look at that also. I don't think that has anything to do with powered off. I'm assuming it means if something isn't plugged into a usb port it disables it, or disables the port when what's plugged in isn't in use.

*I'm thinking I might just have to go the sleep route. Really, I don't use the system that much, but, it would just be nice to easily be able to power it on. I think I'd use it more like that you know.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I moved my Back up rig with a 990FXA-UD5 rev 3 into my living room to use as a steam streaming rig. I was looking into setting it up to turn on by mouse and keyboard. I set it up to do so and it isn't working. I'm assuming this has sometime to do with the USB not being powered on when off. Is there any way to set the usb to powered on while turned off? I searched through the bios but couldn't find anything for USB always on.
> 
> I guess I could just set the system to sleep, but, I'd prefer not to.


im not 100% sure as i havent checked it out for these boards, but in the past the turn on by mouse/keyboard only worked with ps/2 devices.. not usb.


----------



## M3TAl

Ya, I still use a super old PS2 keyboard


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> im not 100% sure as i havent checked it out for these boards, but in the past the turn on by mouse/keyboard only worked with ps/2 devices.. not usb.


That's what it's looking like for this board at least.

I want to say that if you are able to set the usb to always on it can work. I think my main rigs mobo has that option in bios. I've seen it before I think.

If having the USB always powered on would allow for this to work over USB also, then I guess that's a option you'd want on.









*I have a PS2 mouse around here somewhere. I just don't think it would work out so well having its cord strung across the living room all the time.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> That's what it's looking like for this board at least.
> 
> I want to say that if you are able to set the usb to always on it can work. I think my main rigs mobo has that option in bios. I've seen it before I think.
> 
> If having the USB always powered on would allow for this to work over USB also, then I guess that's a option you'd want on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I have a PS2 mouse around here somewhere. I just don't think it would work out so well having its cord strung across the living room all the time.


Might try looking into Wake on LAN if your PC is connected by Ethernet and not WIFI. There's probably some smartphone apps that will send Wake on LAN messages.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Might try looking into Wake on LAN if your PC is connected by Ethernet and not WIFI. There's probably some smartphone apps that will send Wake on LAN messages.


It's ran over Ethernet. Pulled the plug from my PS3 that has wifi and hooked it up to the rig.

Nice, moved to the 4790k also I see... How do you like it?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> It's ran over Ethernet. Pulled the plug from my PS3 that has wifi and hooked it up to the rig.
> 
> Nice, moved to the 4790k also I see... How do you like it?


Love this chip







. Finally got an above average chip in this thing we call silicon lottery. Games all day at 4.7 GHz 1.2-1.208 vcore. Minimum fps and frame drop seems improved but who knows that could be placebo, I didn't do any actual testing.

Got it to bench at 5 GHz 1.4-1.408 vcore. Haven't been able to get past 5 GHz benching yet.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Love this chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Finally got an above average chip in this thing we call silicon lottery. Games all day at 4.7 GHz 1.2-1.208 vcore. Minimum fps and frame drop seems improved but who knows that could be placebo, I didn't do any actual testing.
> 
> Got it to bench at 5 GHz 1.4-1.408 vcore. Haven't been able to get past 5 GHz benching yet.


It isn't placebo.

Nice. I still haven't tested OC'ing my chip. I mainly OC GPU and Ram. 1320 on the GPU and 2133 on the ram. My base voltage on the cpu is pretty low "1.180V" rare 1.168V normal/bios. I think I could get a pretty damned good OC out of it.

I haven't oc'ed it partially because I don't feel I need the performance, and part because I want to baby the chip.


----------



## M3TAl

I think in the BIOS mine says 1.048V and 4.4 boost was 1.18V maybe? My GPU is clocked to the max, from 925 to 1200 on 1.3 V lol. The memory doesn't clock at all though, Raising it actually lowers performance. Maybe I'll test that again.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I think in the BIOS mine says 1.048V and 4.4 boost was 1.18V maybe? My GPU is clocked to the max, from 925 to 1200 on 1.3 V lol. The memory doesn't clock at all though, Raising it actually lowers performance. Maybe I'll test that again.


1.048V... Damn, yea, I think you scored.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> 1.048V... Damn, yea, I think you scored.


There's people in the Devil's Canyon club with much better than mine. Some do 5 GHz and further below 1.4V. I couldn't even get mine to load Windows on single core at 5.3 Ghz with 1.47V.


----------



## madmat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I moved my Back up rig with a 990FXA-UD5 rev 3 into my living room to use as a steam streaming rig. I was looking into setting it up to turn on by mouse and keyboard. I set it up to do so and it isn't working. I'm assuming this has sometime to do with the USB not being powered on when off. Is there any way to set the usb to powered on while turned off? I searched through the bios but couldn't find anything for USB always on.
> 
> I guess I could just set the system to sleep, but, I'd prefer not to.


Go into the power subsection in the bios and it gives you the options to turn on via keyboard or mouse. It's disabled by default. If you've got the manual handy go to page 54 or if you've no idea where the manual is you can get the PDF version here and it outlines what you need to do. The mouse will probably need to be hooked to one of the red USB 2.0 ports since they provide power at all times for charging but that's just a guess since I got rid of my UD5 due to it being too weird for my liking.

Good luck!


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmat*
> 
> Go into the power subsection in the bios and it gives you the options to turn on via keyboard or mouse. It's disabled by default. If you've got the manual handy go to page 54 or if you've no idea where the manual is you can get the PDF version here and it outlines what you need to do. The mouse will probably need to be hooked to one of the red USB 2.0 ports since they provide power at all times for charging but that's just a guess since I got rid of my UD5 due to it being too weird for my liking.
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks man.

Yea, I know that. I already enabled it but my USB wireless keyboard and mouse doesn't turn it on.

I'll have to see what port I'm hooked to.


----------



## Chargeit

Bah, it didn't work, but, I think you're on the right track. Maybe it's being wireless also.

However, you're right and I didn't think of it... I was hooked up to the front port and not one of the back powered ports.


----------



## MadGoat

Wow,

I tried that F3i bios... what a joke that thing is eh? No consistency with what it doesn't do! lol

I couldn't get any settings to work! Let alone a overclock. Back on F2, it might not be perfect..... But at least I can OC with it. I hope they actually put these new Bios's through the ringer before calling them Final.


----------



## Chargeit

I did some more testing with powering on my rig off of the USB.

The only way I could get it to work was through sleep. I can't do it from a powered off state.

Sleep works well enough. I can leave the system in sleep and then turn it on... However,

At normal settings the Xbox 360 controller does not work coming out of a sleep state without returning to desktop from big picture mode...

I was able to get around that by disabling USB selective suspend through windows.

After changing that setting I was able to set put my system to sleep while still in big picture mode. Move my mouse to wake it, and control steam with my controller without issues...

However, I then tested to see what happens if I unplug the controller while in sleep since I don't leave it plugged in while not in use... I pretty much knew what was going to happen. Unplugging it makes it so that it does not work right coming out of sleep.

I'm thinking about picking up a wireless controller to see how that works. I can't leave my wired controller plugged in at all times because my cats would end up chewing through the wire sooner or later.

I guess I should make my end goal clear... I want to sit down on my sofa and be able to easily wake up or turn on my system. I want to be able to quickly and easily get into steam and playing games.

I kind of want to set this thing up to be a nice example of the possible convenience of PC gaming. I'd like for a friend to come over and not see me shifting through tons of BS just to play a game.

My first option is to turn the system on and off physically and have steam open at launch. Fairly simple, but, anyone used to a console isn't going to want to go mess around with power buttons and crap. You want to already be sitting down and have easy access to turning a system on.

My other option is to sleep the computer, turn it on by mouse/keyboard, but then have to kind of fidget with backing in and out of steam to get the xbox controller to work.

So yea, looking to turn the process into something that looks/is as quick and easy as powering on a console. It can be done, but, it's looking like having to unplug that xbox controller when not in use is getting in the way of it.


----------



## madmat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> I did some more testing with powering on my rig off of the USB.
> 
> The only way I could get it to work was through sleep. I can't do it from a powered off state.
> 
> Sleep works well enough. I can leave the system in sleep and then turn it on... However,
> 
> At normal settings the Xbox 360 controller does not work coming out of a sleep state without returning to desktop from big picture mode...
> 
> I was able to get around that by disabling USB selective suspend through windows.
> 
> After changing that setting I was able to set put my system to sleep while still in big picture mode. Move my mouse to wake it, and control steam with my controller without issues...
> 
> However, I then tested to see what happens if I unplug the controller while in sleep since I don't leave it plugged in while not in use... I pretty much knew what was going to happen. Unplugging it makes it so that it does not work right coming out of sleep.
> 
> I'm thinking about picking up a wireless controller to see how that works. I can't leave my wired controller plugged in at all times because my cats would end up chewing through the wire sooner or later.
> 
> I guess I should make my end goal clear... I want to sit down on my sofa and be able to easily wake up or turn on my system. I want to be able to quickly and easily get into steam and playing games.
> 
> I kind of want to set this thing up to be a nice example of the possible convenience of PC gaming. I'd like for a friend to come over and not see me shifting through tons of BS just to play a game.
> 
> My first option is to turn the system on and off physically and have steam open at launch. Fairly simple, but, anyone used to a console isn't going to want to go mess around with power buttons and crap. You want to already be sitting down and have easy access to turning a system on.
> 
> My other option is to sleep the computer, turn it on by mouse/keyboard, but then have to kind of fidget with backing in and out of steam to get the xbox controller to work.
> 
> So yea, looking to turn the process into something that looks/is as quick and easy as powering on a console. It can be done, but, it's looking like having to unplug that xbox controller when not in use is getting in the way of it.


This is a bit more involved but you could try this:


----------



## reeven

i tested for small time new f3i bios. Seems ok, OC work just as on F2, im 8350 at 4.2/4.4 turbo, voltage on NORMAL( yes, Normal exist in settings, just like Auto when playing with + -). Normal voltage is like 1.41 in bios.
LLC medium seem better then extreme). Its to little time but bios is not scary at all. Updated bios with their app, abios app.
Boot ok, faster then F2, and they change Fonts in UEFI if im not mistaken?!
coolers rpm works, all is working.
Need to test more but its time for Gigabyte to release an oficial version when all testing is finish. Maybe they fix usb 3.0 dissapear after restart problem, or bluscreens with it.....


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmat*
> 
> This is a bit more involved but you could try this:


Yes, Wake on LAN is an option like I was saying yesterday. Everyone has a smartphone these days and typically on them at all times so it is an option to consider. Make sure you enable WoL in the BIOS. I played with sending the "magic packet" to my PC once just for fun


----------



## Chargeit

Yea, waking through your cell is pretty cool.

I don't keep my cell on me all the time since I don't like having things in my pockets. When I'm at home, I place it in the kitchen. Kind of defeats the point if I'm jumping up to get my cell since it would quicker and easier to just turn on the computers power.


----------



## madmat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Yea, waking through your cell is pretty cool.
> 
> I don't keep my cell on me all the time since I don't like having things in my pockets. When I'm at home, I place it in the kitchen. Kind of defeats the point if I'm jumping up to get my cell since it would quicker and easier to just turn on the computers power.


Start putting your cell on the coffee table.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmat*
> 
> Start putting your cell on the coffee table.


I thought about that also, but, I charge it while it's in the kitchen. If I start tossing it onto my coffee table it would never get charged. Anyway, I'm attempting to emulate the ease of use of a gaming console which is just the push of a button, not fidgeting through apps and stuff on my cellphone.

I'm just going to order one of those wireless controllers so that I don't have to unplug it. I'll then put the computer into sleep mode so that it can be woken up quickly... If for some reason it doesn't like that, then I guess it isn't meant to be.


----------



## AdmiralAwesome

How viable is it to take a capacitor from one motherboard and use it in another?... Is it a bad thing to solder off a component for it to be reused? At my job, there's some desktops that are waiting in surplus to be recycles, and I found that some have the solid state capacitors... it would be much easier than ordering one at least.


----------



## bbond007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdmiralAwesome*
> 
> How viable is it to take a capacitor from one motherboard and use it in another?... Is it a bad thing to solder off a component for it to be reused? At my job, there's some desktops that are waiting in surplus to be recycles, and I found that some have the solid state capacitors... it would be much easier than ordering one at least.


its fine as long as the specs match.

anyway the bigger issue may be why the cap blew in the first place.


----------



## dice65

Guys i cant thank you enough for trying to help me , and im sorry about the phone pictures ,,, with all settings on default ,, if i even type in 200 for the FSB instead of auto it will not boot with version F2 bios ,, and the default is 200 !! but it wants auto in that box ,, ill be ordering a new board soon ,,, or if i wait till taxes come in i might try a intel build ,, my wife has a 6 core FX 6300 i might try to swap with just to try to see if it will oc then


----------



## AdmiralAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bbond007*
> 
> its fine as long as the specs match.
> 
> anyway the bigger issue may be why the cap blew in the first place.


It was trying to run a FX9590 on my 990FXA UD3. I already am getting a crosshair formula V for that, and once I fix this board, going back to my old FX 6100 which worked just fine before. I notice there are somewhat different brands, which look the exact same but are different color. Does that play any part, and matter at all? The value is also slightly different... and by slightly, I mean .001 of a uF. My board has 270uF, 16V and is blue, which is united chemi-con, while the other one is purple, and is 271uF, 16V


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdmiralAwesome*
> 
> How viable is it to take a capacitor from one motherboard and use it in another?... Is it a bad thing to solder off a component for it to be reused? At my job, there's some desktops that are waiting in surplus to be recycles, and I found that some have the solid state capacitors... it would be much easier than ordering one at least.


just dont burn it with the iron taking it out, should be ok..

its also ok to go bigger, but not smaller.. so if you cant find one with exact numbers, just make sure they are larger.


----------



## SavageBrat

The UD7 get's no respect,,lol


----------



## Mega Man

Why do you say that


----------



## SavageBrat

Well I'll say based off being a member of a few boards,

1) Their are very few members that actually own the board and don't really post about it (for which I'm guilty of)
2) the most recommend boards are the saberkity or crosshair series boards.. including this thread
3) yet the most complaints run with the UD3 rev, 3 boards which may have soured folks on the latter boards ( UD5 and 7)
but you see very few comments on the UD7, is it due to the price of the board, I would say no as it's with in the price range of the crosshair, is it due to to lack of interest in it..possibly or the fact that at the present time it's hard to find?

These are just my opinion, but have a look and see what boards are generally recommend and why the UD7 gets over looked? (as I liked to know)


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Well I'll say based off being a member of a few boards,
> 
> 1) Their are very few members that actually own the board and don't really post about it (for which I'm guilty of)
> 2) the most recommend boards are the saberkity or crosshair series boards.. including this thread
> 3) yet the most complaints run with the UD3 rev, 3 boards which may have soured folks on the latter boards ( UD5 and 7)
> but you see very few comments on the UD7, is it due to the price of the board, I would say no as it's with in the price range of the crosshair, is it due to to lack of interest in it..possibly or the fact that at the present time it's hard to find?
> 
> These are just my opinion, but have a look and see what boards are generally recommend and why the UD7 gets over looked? (as I liked to know)


Asus has an almost blind fan boy following, might have something to do with it. I'm done with Gigabyte for awhile though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Well I'll say based off being a member of a few boards,
> 
> 1) Their are very few members that actually own the board and don't really post about it (for which I'm guilty of)
> 2) the most recommend boards are the saberkity or crosshair series boards.. including this thread
> 3) yet the most complaints run with the UD3 rev, 3 boards which may have soured folks on the latter boards ( UD5 and 7)
> but you see very few comments on the UD7, is it due to the price of the board, I would say no as it's with in the price range of the crosshair, is it due to to lack of interest in it..possibly or the fact that at the present time it's hard to find?
> 
> These are just my opinion, but have a look and see what boards are generally recommend and why the UD7 gets over looked? (as I liked to know)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Well I'll say based off being a member of a few boards,
> 
> 1) Their are very few members that actually own the board and don't really post about it (for which I'm guilty of)
> 2) the most recommend boards are the saberkity or crosshair series boards.. including this thread
> 3) yet the most complaints run with the UD3 rev, 3 boards which may have soured folks on the latter boards ( UD5 and 7)
> but you see very few comments on the UD7, is it due to the price of the board, I would say no as it's with in the price range of the crosshair, is it due to to lack of interest in it..possibly or the fact that at the present time it's hard to find?
> 
> These are just my opinion, but have a look and see what boards are generally recommend and why the UD7 gets over looked? (as I liked to know)
> 
> 
> 
> Asus has an almost blind fan boy following, might have something to do with it. I'm done with Gigabyte for awhile though.
Click to expand...

no asus makes the best boards, although my ud7 can keep up it is not nor was it as easy to oc, esp on the amd side with the first uefi bios ( this is the first amd uefi board from giga ) and they suck ... lack of options on the rev 3 no socket thermistor giga just skimped, that said they are the only board that natively supports quadfire which is the only plus, i would much prefer to use my CVFz or saberkitty !


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no asus makes the best boards, although my ud7 can keep up it is not nor was it as easy to oc, esp on the amd side with the first uefi bios ( this is the first amd uefi board from giga ) and they suck ... lack of options on the rev 3 no socket thermistor giga just skimped, that said they are the only board that natively supports quadfire which is the only plus, i would much prefer to use my CVFz or saberkitty !


Not saying they're not better boards. Asus has an almost army of people who go around touting Asus is the best when they don't even consider other options.


----------



## Mega Man

2011 best board ? RIVE/RIVBE ( not 2011v3)

1150 best board ?? - most used that i have seen asus maximus VI /VII extreme/formula/gene/impact vs most all others

am3+ CVFz/CVF/Sabertooth

should we keep going ?

consider what you want, but for ocing, asus really puts in the time to be the best


----------



## M3TAl

You're not understanding my point. I never said they weren't good boards.


----------



## Mega Man

i am though, you said why not, it is simple, giga dropped the ball on the UEFI bios .... and never cared to fix. if they came out with a rev 4 with just the bios and lack of sensors..... fixed, i would buy it NOW


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am though, you said why not, it is simple, giga dropped the ball on the UEFI bios .... and never cared to fix. if they came out with a rev 4 with just the bios and lack of sensors..... fixed, i would buy it NOW


Unfortunately, I doubt they'll put any more time/effort/money into this platform.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am though, you said why not, it is simple, giga dropped the ball on the UEFI bios .... and never cared to fix. if they came out with a rev 4 with just the bios and lack of sensors..... fixed, i would buy it NOW


Own rev 1.0, 1.1, 3.0 and 4.0... I have to agree.

BIOS fix, this board = Win ... ASUS otherwise has people in the right department that know and care about what they are doing.


----------



## zila

I have to agree, Gigabyte stumbled badly on the 990 boards. The bios is just awful. My Asus boards are much nicer, smoother products. They function as you would expect them to.


----------



## Regnitto

I like my UD3, but I have never tried any of the ASUS boards.


----------



## FiatluX

They dropped the ball on both bios and component quality!

My UD3 rev.3 is now getting worse ´n worse, it´s warped as in melting and the usb ports are erratic as a consequence, this without any oc at all..

I´ll never buy another Gigabyte mb for sure!


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FiatluX*
> 
> They dropped the ball on both bios and component quality!
> 
> My UD3 rev.3 is now getting worse ´n worse, it´s warped as in melting and the usb ports are erratic as a consequence, this without any oc at all..
> 
> I´ll never buy another Gigabyte mb for sure!


I've not had any problems like that with my rev. 4


----------



## reeven

I must agree that on my ud5 and ud 3 rev 4 bios has problems. if they fix it these boards are quite stable.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> I must agree that on my ud5 and ud 3 rev 4 bios has problems. if they fix it these boards are quite stable.


what kind of problems? cause my ud3 rev4 seems to be working good.


----------



## mus1mus

Problems with the UD3?

From rev 3 - rev 4, VRM design, cooling and hardcoded protection scheme that limits users' OC capability.

Why pick Asus?

They did their job well. Lotsa features you can't find on Gigas. Esp on the 990FX platform. Though most of those are not really for the common users.

ROG boards carry the name of the ROG Team. And says it all.

Pricing-wise, they're not too far from Giga's top end anyway. And when you consider this 990FX platform, you need to invest to get the most out of it. Board, Cooling, Power.

That extra 100-200 MHz mean so much performance-wise IMO untilnyou get limited by the chip.

2011 V3 on the other hand, mostly depends on chip's capability as almost every make can pull out similar juice from the new i7s


----------



## zila

The difference between Gigabyte and Asus is this in IMHO: Gigabyte UD5's and UD7's are "Good" boards. Asus Sabertooth and Formula-Z are "Great" boards. Asus boards have the moxxy to deal with the 8 core chips. My UD5's I wouldn't want to push them too hard because of the heat generated off of the vrm heat sinks. When overclocking, even a little bit I can fry eggs on those heat sinks. A fan does help but it just looks like crap. That being said, I wouldn't even bother purchasing a UD3.

The UD5's and UD7's are aesthetically pleasing. They are beautiful boards. That honestly is the reason that I bought them. Gorgeous looking. But the bios on the Gigabyte boards just suck plain and simple.

If you're seriously wanting to overclock a Vishera than as far as I'm concerned there are only two boards to choose from................Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 or the Asus Crosshair V Formula-Z.

I own AsRock, Gigabyte and Asus boards. The best of the best are the Asus boards.


----------



## dice65

zila you are prob right !!! i had a chance today to swipe the memory with my sons asrock's board ,, he had gskill 1600 2 4gig sticks where i had the sniper 2133 hz ,, and what do ya know it worked !! my gigabyte v4 with F2 bios likes the cheep stuff lol ,, left my ram in his as it works fine there ,, still thinking about getting a asus board an a cheep FX 6300 ,, now to push it to the max an see how far it will go

steve


----------



## saxonorm

I need to join this club but i have a quick question. Can I get to old bios and not the uefi? One?? Silly question
I'm running 990fxa-ud3 with fx6300


----------



## Mega Man

if you own a rev 1.0/1.1 ... yes as they are old bios not uefi, as to rev3 and 4 boards.... no


----------



## saxonorm

Thank you megaman


----------



## dice65

Hi guys ,, i found the magic with my ud3 v4 board , my hole boot problem was not the memory like i thought but what i had to do was disable all other boot options other than my main ssd drive !! even had to disable the second boot option which was the dvd rom ,, now , i have her overclocked to 4.4gig , my temps are around 50c on the NB and CPU , what scares me is the IRF IR3564B VR T1 AN T2 temps , is that the VRMs ? and how high can i push em ? had them up to 110c for a bit today ,, i have been backing down the vcore so they stay around 90c ,, whats a safe number for them ? thanks again for all the help !!

steve


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> Hi guys ,, i found the magic with my ud3 v4 board , my hole boot problem was not the memory like i thought but what i had to do was disable all other boot options other than my main ssd drive !! even had to disable the second boot option which was the dvd rom ,, now , i have her overclocked to 4.4gig , my temps are around 50c on the NB and CPU , what scares me is the IRF IR3564B VR T1 AN T2 temps , is that the VRMs ? and how high can i push em ? had them up to 110c for a bit today ,, i have been backing down the vcore so they stay around 90c ,, whats a safe number for them ? thanks again for all the help !!
> 
> steve


you need to put a fan on the vrm heat sinks.


----------



## Regnitto

@dice65
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> you need to put a fan on the vrm heat sinks.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


or behind the VRM. I'm running an FX-6100 @ 4.8ghz 1.596vcore, and never see over 75c on the VRMs with this fan. If I disconnect it, temps go over 100c:




As far as temps, a good VRM shouldn't fail until around 120c...........but IMO keep it under 80c for longevity.


----------



## dice65

that is slick !! ordering some fans now ,thankyou !!!


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dice65*
> 
> *that is slick !!* ordering some fans now ,thankyou !!!


not sure if that was directed at me or @aaronsta1, but if it was to me, thanks!


----------



## Mahdniss

Hello, this is my first time signing up to a forum. I have some questions regarding overclocking my Gigabyte 990fxa ud3 motherboard. I've run into some issues and cannot revert them through conventional means.

Is this where I post such questions, or is there a particular thread? Any help is appreciated.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mahdniss*
> 
> Hello, this is my first time signing up to a forum. I have some questions regarding overclocking my Gigabyte 990fxa ud3 motherboard. I've run into some issues and cannot revert them through conventional means.
> 
> Is this where I post such questions, or is there a particular thread? Any help is appreciated.


ok i think i got this..
you set the OC too high and the computer no longer posts..

you have to reset the bios.

on the right bottom corner by the plugs you will see 2 pins.. short those for a few seconds and you will be good to go.


----------



## Mahdniss

ok i think i got this..
you set the OC too high and the computer no longer posts..

you have to reset the bios.

on the right bottom corner by the plugs you will see 2 pins.. short those for a few seconds and you will be good to go.[/quote]

No. I downloaded an overclocking utility from the mobo's utility disk and increased the clock by 1 MHz as a test. It has caused mass hysteria as far as hardware is concerned. Video is very choppy, perhaps from a latency issue. I can post, boot, etc. I have reset the camps settings from both the bios and the pins in the bottom corner, but to no avail. I did undo the change in the software before resetting the bios.

I cannot alter the clock myself. I unable to tweak many of the features. I belive this is common?


----------



## Mahdniss

Camps = cmos


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mahdniss*
> 
> No. I downloaded an overclocking utility from the mobo's utility disk and increased the clock by 1 MHz as a test. It has caused mass hysteria as far as hardware is concerned. Video is very choppy, perhaps from a latency issue. I can post, boot, etc. I have reset the camps settings from both the bios and the pins in the bottom corner, but to no avail. I did undo the change in the software before resetting the bios.
> 
> I cannot alter the clock myself. I unable to tweak many of the features. I belive this is common?


did you try to uninstall the program?

id reset everything just to be safe.


----------



## Mahdniss

Yes I did. I Even restored windows. My brother just sent me a link to AMD overdrive. I will try their software later today. It's really odd that I can't manually set the clock.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mahdniss*
> 
> Yes I did. I Even restored windows. My brother just sent me a link to AMD overdrive. I will try their software later today. It's really odd that I can't manually set the clock.


its best not to use software to overclock.. its less stable that way..


----------



## Mahdniss

I want to use it to reset my clock to normal. Right now my clock is at 201 MHz. It is supposed to be 200 MHz. The bios won't allow me any other choice, that I am aware of.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mahdniss*
> 
> I want to use it to reset my clock to normal. Right now my clock is at 201 MHz. It is supposed to be 200 MHz. The bios won't allow me any other choice, that I am aware of.


i dont know what you are looking at, but if you reset the bios how i said everything should get put back on automatic.


----------



## Mahdniss

You would think. It doesn't work, though. That's why I am here.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mahdniss*
> 
> I want to use it to reset my clock to normal. Right now my clock is at 201 MHz. It is supposed to be 200 MHz. The bios won't allow me any other choice, that I am aware of.


your fsb will fluctuate some it is normal !


----------



## dracconus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DividebyZERO*
> 
> Hello, I have a UD7 990Fx and i have a question about the BIOS. I noticed there are 2 revisions of this mobo. 1.0 has an old legacy BIOS and rev 3.0 has a UEFI deal. The issue i have with my REV 3.0 is the bios is way to basic. Its missing many settings i would expect on a good board. So my question is...
> 
> Can i flash rev 1.0 bios onto my 3.0? If is there a hidden advanced menu i am unaware of? I used to have an old EP45 DS3 that i had to hit like Ctrl-F1 for MIT menu advanced.
> I cannot believe this 990fx UD7 is so lacking in fine tuning and overclocking.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated


In order to successfully do what you're wanting you'd have to replace the BIOS Chip, and quite possibly run into a LOT of complications as I'm sure that there were changes via revision aside from something as simple as cooling solutions.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> In order to successfully do what you're wanting you'd have to replace the BIOS Chip, and quite possibly run into a LOT of complications as I'm sure that there were changes via revision aside from something as simple as cooling solutions.


Not as simple as changing the BIOS chip IMO.

Bios Chip are all the same. Store hardware settings.

Communicating with the hardware is another story.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dracconus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DividebyZERO*
> 
> Hello, I have a UD7 990Fx and i have a question about the BIOS. I noticed there are 2 revisions of this mobo. 1.0 has an old legacy BIOS and rev 3.0 has a UEFI deal. The issue i have with my REV 3.0 is the bios is way to basic. Its missing many settings i would expect on a good board. So my question is...
> 
> Can i flash rev 1.0 bios onto my 3.0? If is there a hidden advanced menu i am unaware of? I used to have an old EP45 DS3 that i had to hit like Ctrl-F1 for MIT menu advanced.
> I cannot believe this 990fx UD7 is so lacking in fine tuning and overclocking.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> In order to successfully do what you're wanting you'd have to replace the BIOS Chip, and quite possibly run into a LOT of complications as I'm sure that there were changes via revision aside from something as simple as cooling solutions.
Click to expand...

no it isnt,

bios controls everything, and unless everything is the same, it can ( if it flashes ) destroy your mobo it isnt the same as a gpu although giga has dual bios it isnt the same


----------



## AdmiralAwesome

Well I tried replacing the capacitor finally, it's still doing the same thing. Either I screwed it up (did I mention that was my first ever soldering job?) or that capacitor wasn't the only problem

Anyone know how to take off the heatsink from the VRM on these boards? I saw videos where boards usually have screws, but this has like some plastic tab that you can't screw off.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AdmiralAwesome*
> 
> Well I tried replacing the capacitor finally, it's still doing the same thing. Either I screwed it up (did I mention that was my first ever soldering job?) or that capacitor wasn't the only problem
> 
> Anyone know how to take off the heatsink from the VRM on these boards? I saw videos where boards usually have screws, but this has like some plastic tab that you can't screw off.


Lock pins.



You need to squeeze the tip to undo the expansion locking mechanism.


----------



## Esperante

So I was thinking about getting the UD3 version but I read random comments around about how it can't handle the mainline FX-83## series? Any truth to this?

I need to replace my current mobo because it has unsolvable issues with the GPU, I don't need more unexpected issues.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Esperante*
> 
> So I was thinking about getting the UD3 version but I read random comments around about how it can't handle the mainline FX-83## series? Any truth to this?
> 
> I need to replace my current mobo because it has unsolvable issues with the GPU, I don't need more unexpected issues.


i have no problems with mine, its running at 4700.. make sure you get the rev 4.


----------



## Esperante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> i have no problems with mine, its running at 4700.. make sure you get the rev 4.


Is there any way to tell on vendor's websites through serial numbers and the like? I would hope buying from newegg or amazon they would have the latest version, naturally.


----------



## reeven

rev4 its from last year or so, so now in 2015 you will get latest revision.


----------



## Esperante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> rev4 its from last year or so, so now in 2015 you will get latest revision.


If newegg pictures are to be believed, you can zoom in currently on them and find actual print on the mobo that says "rev: 4.0".


----------



## Audiophile1178

Does anybody know if the GA-990FXA-UD5 version 3.0 has a powered eSATA port?

It looks like the version 1.x has it but maybe they took it away in version 3.0? I ask because I have version 3.0. In this review, it states that version 1.x has it and it's the blue eSATA port but version 3.0 doesn't have a blue eSATA port. Is it the same powered port but they just changed the color in version 3.0?









http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mainboards/display/gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud5_2.html

Here's a comparison of the ports from Gigabytes site:

Version 1.x:


Version 3.0:


----------



## ~kRon1k~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178*
> 
> Does anybody know if the GA-990FXA-UD5 version 3.0 has a powered eSATA port?
> 
> It looks like the version 1.x has it but maybe they took it away in version 3.0? I ask because I have version 3.0. In this review, it states that version 1.x has it and it's the blue eSATA port but version 3.0 doesn't have a blue eSATA port. Is it the same powered port but they just changed the color in version 3.0?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mainboards/display/gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud5_2.html
> 
> Here's a comparison of the ports from Gigabytes site:
> 
> Version 1.x:
> 
> 
> Version 3.0:


I use an external eSata drive that gets its power from the port, so I would say yes it is powered.


----------



## Audiophile1178

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *~kRon1k~*
> 
> I use an external eSata drive that gets its power from the port, so I would say yes it is powered.


Is that a revision 3.0 board? If so, is it the eSATA port that's directly next to the USB 3.0 ports?

Is it possible to use this port as your main boot drive as I never used an eSATA port before? I was thinking about plugging an SSD into it as I have 7 HDD's in my PC and 1 Blu-ray drive so I currently have all the SATA ports in use.









*Edit:* I just read that eSATAp (powered eSATA) also supplies 12v power to the eSATA port so I think the first solution would be best to get since it could also power a standard 5.25 HDD.

I was thinking about using something like this:



OR maybe an adapter that uses USB for it's power such as this:


----------



## ~kRon1k~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Audiophile1178*
> 
> Is that a revision 3.0 board? If so, is it the eSATA port that's directly next to the USB 3.0 ports?
> 
> Is it possible to use this port as your main boot drive as I never used an eSATA port before? I was thinking about plugging an SSD into it as I have 7 HDD's in my PC and 1 Blu-ray drive so I currently have all the SATA ports in use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* I just read that eSATAp (powered eSATA) also supplies 12v power to the eSATA port so I think the first solution would be best to get since it could also power a standard 5.25 HDD.
> 
> I was thinking about using something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> OR maybe an adapter that uses USB for it's power such as this:


yes rev 3.0







and I have never used it as a boot drive so I can't personally give a definite answer.


----------



## Mega Man

i cant tell you if it is or not, but the shape looks like a powered port

( it looks like a usb port built in )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Esperante*
> 
> So I was thinking about getting the UD3 version but I read random comments around about how it can't handle the mainline FX-83## series? Any truth to this?
> 
> I need to replace my current mobo because it has unsolvable issues with the GPU, I don't need more unexpected issues.


this is due to having hard coded throttling in the bios ( meaning you can not shut it off )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Esperante*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> i have no problems with mine, its running at 4700.. make sure you get the rev 4.
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any way to tell on vendor's websites through serial numbers and the like? I would hope buying from newegg or amazon they would have the latest version, naturally.
Click to expand...

all the stock now should be rev4 ! no worries about it being rev3

either way

you shouldnt buy the ud3 if you are going for MAX oc, ~ 4.7+ however these newer chips are much lighter on energy so it may be possible to go higher.

if you do want max oc either ud5/7/CHVz/ Saberkitty !


----------



## Esperante

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i cant tell you if it is or not, but the shape looks like a powered port
> 
> ( it looks like a usb port built in )
> this is due to having hard coded throttling in the bios ( meaning you can not shut it off )
> all the stock now should be rev4 ! no worries about it being rev3
> 
> either way
> 
> you shouldnt buy the ud3 if you are going for MAX oc, ~ 4.7+ however these newer chips are much lighter on energy so it may be possible to go higher.
> 
> if you do want max oc either ud5/7/CHVz/ Saberkitty !


Ok, that sounds good to me. I'm a mild OC'er at best, I probably wouldn't even bother OC'ing that CPU as long as it can push a R9 290 fully.


----------



## aqe040466

I need help on how to properly overclock my cpu (FX 8350) on Gigabyte GA 990FXA UD3 REV 4.0. I want a step by step procedure on how to do it properly.
Thanks...!


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqe040466*
> 
> I need help on how to properly overclock my cpu (FX 8350) on Gigabyte GA 990FXA UD3 REV 4.0. I want a step by step procedure on how to do it properly.
> Thanks...!


step 1, make sure you have the F2 bios.
step 2, make sure you have a fan on your vrms.
step 3, make sure you have a water cooler, like a H100i or something equivalent.. i use the 140XL
step 4, go into bios, go into the advanced cpu part and turn off turbo. push F10 and reboot back into bios.
step 5, go into voltage, set LLC to medium, volts to normal, and set offset to add voltage to what you need. stock volts is usually around 1.375.. the board should default to 1.3 with turbo off.
step 6, adjust your multiplier to whatever you want to OC to.

i have mine running at 4.7 with 1.45v. thats probably the max this board can go.. on my chip to get to 4.8 i had to go up to 1.55v and that got the vrms way too hot.

oh and dont go straight to 4.7 lol.. its best to find the max the cpu will go with stock volts, then go up from there.


----------



## aqe040466

I did everything you wrote on the thread, actually my goal is to reach 5 GHZ CPU clock frequency, I think I might need to buy a water cooling kit(closed loop) to attain this goal. Right now I am using this air cpu cooler (http://www.microcenter.com/product/411580/HYPER_T4_CPU_COOLER). I want to buy this closed loop water cooling kit (http://www.microcenter.com/product/440025/Nepton_240M_Liquid_CPU_Water_Cooling_System).


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aqe040466*
> 
> I did everything you wrote on the thread, actually my goal is to reach 5 GHZ CPU clock frequency, I think I might need to buy a water cooling kit(closed loop) to attain this goal. Right now I am using this air cpu cooler (http://www.microcenter.com/product/411580/HYPER_T4_CPU_COOLER). I want to buy this closed loop water cooling kit (http://www.microcenter.com/product/440025/Nepton_240M_Liquid_CPU_Water_Cooling_System).


im not certain the ud3 can get to 5ghz. maybe if you have an excellent cpu, but even then its pushing the vrms on this board.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aqe040466*
> 
> I did everything you wrote on the thread, actually my goal is to reach 5 GHZ CPU clock frequency, I think I might need to buy a water cooling kit(closed loop) to attain this goal. Right now I am using this air cpu cooler (http://www.microcenter.com/product/411580/HYPER_T4_CPU_COOLER). I want to buy this closed loop water cooling kit (http://www.microcenter.com/product/440025/Nepton_240M_Liquid_CPU_Water_Cooling_System).
> 
> 
> 
> im not certain the ud3 can get to 5ghz. maybe if you have an excellent cpu, but even then its pushing the vrms on this board.
Click to expand...

nor will most CLCs do a stable 5ghz, it is possible, but not likely


----------



## Game0n79

So, I just picked up a UD3 rev. 4 board (with an FX-8310) and plan on overclocking. Is it still recommended to add a fan to the VRM on rev. 4 boards?


----------



## Mega Man

as with any boards it really depends 4.7+ yes 4.6 maybe

4.5 should be fine without


----------



## taowulf

Hmm. Just discovered I have been running my voltage in the auto setting for months with a 900mhz overclock. Other than the USB ports acting all weird on me, everything was running fine.

It is really annoying when you are playing a game online and the mouse craps out...or the keyboard.


----------



## Mega Man

let us know if you need any help !!


----------



## demitrisln

Hey all
I have a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 REV 4. I have a custom loop and i've noticed lately on my temp software (use Speedfan, HWmonitor, RealTemp) and they all say the CPU is -165C but the cores run at like 20C. When I was playing a game I relized that the CPU load was 30% and the cores were up to 55C. The pump isn't running any faster and I think it is because of the faulty reading on the main CPU. Is there a way that I can manually control the pump (goes through a pwm 4 pin hooked to cpu fan header) when this happens? Does anything in the bios need to be changed?

I appreciate your help.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all
> I have a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 REV 4. I have a custom loop and i've noticed lately on my temp software (use Speedfan, HWmonitor, RealTemp) and they all say the CPU is -165C but the cores run at like 20C. When I was playing a game I relized that the CPU load was 30% and the cores were up to 55C. The pump isn't running any faster and I think it is because of the faulty reading on the main CPU. Is there a way that I can manually control the pump (goes through a pwm 4 pin hooked to cpu fan header) when this happens? Does anything in the bios need to be changed?
> 
> I appreciate your help.


there are 2 fan headers on this board that you can set speed with speedfan.
the CPU one and the SYS1

in bios, set the fans to full speed.. then in speed fan, under configure, advanced, IT8728F turn PWM1 and 2 to software controlled.

then you can alter their speed in speedfan.

unfortunately, PWM3 doesnt seem to be adjustable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Hey all
> I have a Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 REV 4. I have a custom loop and i've noticed lately on my temp software (use Speedfan, HWmonitor, RealTemp) and they all say the CPU is -165C but the cores run at like 20C. When I was playing a game I relized that the CPU load was 30% and the cores were up to 55C. The pump isn't running any faster and I think it is because of the faulty reading on the main CPU. Is there a way that I can manually control the pump (goes through a pwm 4 pin hooked to cpu fan header) when this happens? Does anything in the bios need to be changed?
> 
> I appreciate your help.


well. i never heard of the 3rd you mention but that in and of itself says something

hwmonitor is known buggy on amd.

i would recommend trying hwinfo


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> there are 2 fan headers on this board that you can set speed with speedfan.
> the CPU one and the SYS1
> 
> in bios, set the fans to full speed.. then in speed fan, under configure, advanced, IT8728F turn PWM1 and 2 to software controlled.
> 
> then you can alter their speed in speedfan.
> 
> unfortunately, PWM3 doesnt seem to be adjustable.


This worked perfectly... but for some reason my CPU fan was under the 3rd one not the first two. Once I set the 3rd one to Software it bumped to 100% and my fans were going great! I really appreciate the help on this.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> This worked perfectly... but for some reason my CPU fan was under the 3rd one not the first two. Once I set the 3rd one to Software it bumped to 100% and my fans were going great! I really appreciate the help on this.


forgot to say dont forget to check the remember box so it stays like that if you reboot.


----------



## demitrisln

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> forgot to say dont forget to check the remember box so it stays like that if you reboot.


Is it normal that when the computer boots it goes to 100% and then when i open up speedfan it goes to 0%? Not a big deal but would be nice if i could set it to something.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *demitrisln*
> 
> Is it normal that when the computer boots it goes to 100% and then when i open up speedfan it goes to 0%? Not a big deal but would be nice if i could set it to something.


kind of confused.. you asking if its normal for the fan to be at 100% while loading, or is it normal for it to drop to 0% after it loads??

because the fan speed while the pc is loading is set by the bios.. you can set the speed to disabled, which would be 100% or set it to normal which is controlled by the temperature.
altho, i think if you set to normal or silent, speedfan will use whatever it sees as 100% so you wont actually get full speed from the fans..

now for speedfan.. i dont think its normal for it to set the speed at 0% on loading.. mine leaves it where i left it..

you can also set up a fan curve based on temp in configure/fan control/advanced.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Just doing my periodic check in. Good to see some familiar faces still here. As well as a bunch of new folks.


----------



## mus1mus

How's your UD3?


----------



## hurricane28

Hey Ozzy, how you doing man?

As you know i returned my UD5 and got myself an Sabertooth.

Its much better than any Gigabyte board i owned, i had 3 of them and all 3 were good boards but non of them can compete with the Sabertooth.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> How's your UD3?


Believe it or not the thing is still going. Minus that PCIE slot I pulled off of course lol.


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Hey Ozzy, how you doing man?
> 
> As you know i returned my UD5 and got myself an Sabertooth.
> 
> Its much better than any Gigabyte board i owned, i had 3 of them and all 3 were good boards but non of them can compete with the Sabertooth.


It's going been keeping busy with work and getting this car of mine going.

I still kick around the idea of picking up the Sabertooth. I got a Crosshair IV for my dad and put a FX 6300 in it. That old board is nicer than the UD3 by a long shot!


----------



## nidzakv

I owerclocked mine fx 6300 to 4.7 ghz @ 1.440v.. I think it's enought..

Can someone hel me how to overclock ht link (def 2600mhz), and NB fre (def 2000mhz)?
When i set NB to 2200 and 2400, pc go crazy, gpu is acting weird etc.. Any help? I see people use 2600 2600 with no problems?

Ram is kingston 4gb 1600, overclocked to 1866mhz.

Thanks in advance !


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> I owerclocked mine fx 6300 to 4.7 ghz @ 1.440v.. I think it's enought..
> 
> Can someone hel me how to overclock ht link (def 2600mhz), and NB fre (def 2000mhz)?
> When i set NB to 2200 and 2400, pc go crazy, gpu is acting weird etc.. Any help? I see people use 2600 2600 with no problems?
> 
> Ram is kingston 4gb 1600, overclocked to 1866mhz.
> 
> Thanks in advance !


Why do you want to OC your HT link?

There is no benefit from it and it only causes problems so i would leave it at stock.

CPU/NB however can give some significant performance boosts if done correctly.

You need to set the CPU/NB voltage higher in bios but its not necessary if you running 1866mhz ram. 2400mhz or more you need to OC your CPU/NB.

Are you also sure that your RAM is stable?


----------



## SavageBrat

@ nidzakv may I ask what mb you're using?


----------



## nidzakv

Yes i think its stable. Running a year like this overclocked..

Overclocking for overall system performance.. You think bugs will be gone ih i overclock NB to 2400mhz and increase voltage?

For how much? Def is 1.20000 i think..


----------



## nidzakv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> @ nidzakv may I ask what mb you're using?


Sorry bro, 990fxa ud3 rev 4.0.


----------



## SavageBrat

Ok thanks.... I was just wondering as I saw your oc, just made me wonder what it was..


----------



## nidzakv

Can this chip go to 5ghz on air?

I have CM hyper 212 evo push-pull ?

Somebody tried?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> Can this chip go to 5ghz on air?
> 
> I have CM hyper 212 evo push-pull ?
> 
> Somebody tried?


Absolutely NOT. That cooler would only net you around 4.5ghz if you are lucky not more.


----------



## nidzakv

It was running on 4.7ghz no problems for weeks.. Passed linx for 20 minutes, max temp round 65c as i remember.. I reached 5ghz, but it freezes in linx after 5 sec







1.5v..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> It was running on 4.7ghz no problems for weeks.. Passed linx for 20 minutes, max temp round 65c as i remember.. I reached 5ghz, but it freezes in linx after 5 sec
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1.5v..


i am sorry but i don't believe that.. do you have proof of that? What program did you monitor your temps?

It froze at 5Ghz due to temps... Do you really think that cooler can do 5ghz? I have an h100i and even in push/pull i have great difficulty to cool this chip at 5ghz..

Trust me, continue like this you will burn your motherboard or something else in short order..

I suggest you to download HWINFO64 for monitoring your system because that seems to be the only program that can read the FX chips best.

If you are stress testing i would use IBT AVX at very high, if you pass 10 runs you are "stable"


----------



## HelpMePlease

Can anybody show me a screenshot with all options i need to have toggled on or off in order to overclock on this motherboard?
I have a AMD FX8350, and i just cant find the right settings in order to get a stable OC..

PleaseHelpMe


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> I owerclocked mine fx 6300 to 4.7 ghz @ 1.440v.. I think it's enought..
> 
> Can someone hel me how to overclock ht link (def 2600mhz), and NB fre (def 2000mhz)?
> When i set NB to 2200 and 2400, pc go crazy, gpu is acting weird etc.. Any help? I see people use 2600 2600 with no problems?
> 
> Ram is kingston 4gb 1600, overclocked to 1866mhz.
> 
> Thanks in advance !


First unless using a 970 chipset default cpu/NB (NB core) is 2400.

Second you don't need to oc HT on a ud3. Only reason to oc HT is multiple gpus (3+) and as sata uses HT it is very easy to corrupt Data And very hard to determine stability.

When I oced my ht ( settled at 3900) I learned all this.

Again though this is not phenom no need to occur it on ud3 will only cause more problems

@pleasehelpme which board/rev/bios
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> Can this chip go to 5ghz on air?
> 
> I have CM hyper 212 evo push-pull ?
> 
> Somebody tried?


Tried yes. No one has been successful.

Although with the new chip yields there have been people with high end air able to do it. 212 is not high ends air though


----------



## 99lool

Hello, I have a UD3 rev.3 and I was wondering about the dolby digital plus home theater software, I remember using this once when I first installed the motherboard into my computer but after awhile of formatting my harddrive and installing new OS I have lost it, recently i formatted my harddrive and reinstalled windows 10 preview and updated all my driver, and now I see Dolby Digital Plus Home Theater in my control panel but when I click to enter it, it says "Your current dolby didigtal audio diver is 7.6.4.9 and the software application expects driver version 7.5.1.1. Please install a valid driver and software application combination, I looked on the download page and there is only one audio driver download in the whole for all os and such is there some other way I can fix this? Did anyone else have this problem?


----------



## aaroc

Hello Friends! Im back from vacation and working abroad.
What software do you use to control the fans in the UD7 V3.0? ET6 (easy tune 6) from Gigabyte or SpeedFan, Any recommendation?
How much energy do the fan connectors on the motherboard provide? I search the manual but found no information. This is not may main build, so no AQ6XT available. Thanks!


----------



## Mega Man

aq5 lt then ?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> Hello Friends! Im back from vacation and working abroad.
> What software do you use to control the fans in the UD7 V3.0? ET6 (easy tune 6) from Gigabyte or SpeedFan, Any recommendation?
> How much energy do the fan connectors on the motherboard provide? I search the manual but found no information. This is not may main build, so no AQ6XT available. Thanks!


What fans are these?

PWM fans can easily be controlled within the BIOS, as well as apps that can be set with FAN Curves. I hooked 8 PWM fans on a single fan header using their PWM control wires on my Kitty. Set minimum and maximum speeds with Temps and ignore them.

I will just use a toggle switch on my High Speed 4000 RPM Deltas. 5V for Stealth and 12V for Turbo Benching Profiles


----------



## rakesh27

Heres a little Tip.

For the person that needs the correct driver for the onboard sound, do a search on google and youll find it.

Also for you and anyone else, you should always keep a backup of any driver you install for your rig, as sometimes it can be very hard to find those hard to find drivers

Doh


----------



## gijoe50000

Hello..
Anybody know of a way to get my second GPU to work in the 3rd slot for sli?

By the 3rd slot I mean the lower one so that I have a gap between the two cards. 970's..

I had them close together and the top card temp was very high. I'd like to have a bit of space between them but when I move the second card to the bottom slot (8x) it's not detected by windows or NCP. Fans are spinning so it's getting power ok.

I've seen people talking about it and there seems to be no problem for some. Is it a Gigabyte thing? an AMD thing? BIOS?

Anybody?


----------



## revro

i am interested in gb 990 ud5, but i read that for 8370 i need to update bios?
how do i update bios if i dont have other amd cpu at hand?

thank you


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gijoe50000*
> 
> Hello..
> Anybody know of a way to get my second GPU to work in the 3rd slot for sli?
> 
> By the 3rd slot I mean the lower one so that I have a gap between the two cards. 970's..
> 
> I had them close together and the top card temp was very high. I'd like to have a bit of space between them but when I move the second card to the bottom slot (8x) it's not detected by windows or NCP. Fans are spinning so it's getting power ok.
> 
> I've seen people talking about it and there seems to be no problem for some. Is it a Gigabyte thing? an AMD thing? BIOS?
> 
> Anybody?


Probably a Giga thing. But that is easy actually.

1. Remove all your GPUs.
2. Install one card at a time. By this I meant, install the first card in the first PCIe X16 slot.
3.Boot to Windows and install the driver.
4. Do a reboot to make sure things are working fine. GPU-z at X16 verified.
5. Shut down PC and uninstall the card.
6. Install 2nd card at the 2nd X16 slot.
7. Boot to Windows and install the drivers.
8. Reboot and verify card is running at X16 via GPU-z.
9. Shut down and reinstall the first card. Try.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revro*
> 
> i am interested in gb 990 ud5, but i read that for 8370 i need to update bios?
> how do i update bios if i dont have other amd cpu at hand?
> 
> thank you


Is the board new? Or do you have the system at hand?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gijoe50000*
> 
> Hello..
> Anybody know of a way to get my second GPU to work in the 3rd slot for sli?
> 
> By the 3rd slot I mean the lower one so that I have a gap between the two cards. 970's..
> 
> I had them close together and the top card temp was very high. I'd like to have a bit of space between them but when I move the second card to the bottom slot (8x) it's not detected by windows or NCP. Fans are spinning so it's getting power ok.
> 
> I've seen people talking about it and there seems to be no problem for some. Is it a Gigabyte thing? an AMD thing? BIOS?
> 
> Anybody?
> 
> 
> 
> Probably a Giga thing. But that is easy actually.
> 
> 1. Remove all your GPUs.
> 2. Install one card at a time. By this I meant, install the first card in the first PCIe X16 slot.
> 3.Boot to Windows and install the driver.
> 4. Do a reboot to make sure things are working fine. GPU-z at X16 verified.
> 5. Shut down PC and uninstall the card.
> 6. Install 2nd card at the 2nd X16 slot.
> 7. Boot to Windows and install the drivers.
> 8. Reboot and verify card is running at X16 via GPU-z.
> 9. Shut down and reinstall the first card. Try.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *revro*
> 
> i am interested in gb 990 ud5, but i read that for 8370 i need to update bios?
> how do i update bios if i dont have other amd cpu at hand?
> 
> thank you
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is the board new? Or do you have the system at hand?
Click to expand...

well no it SHOULDNT happen

check the slot for debris ( dust ect )

blow it out ( usually recommend can of air ) and verify proper electrical plugs


----------



## gijoe50000

Thanks,
Found the solution..
It was the PCIE configuration in advanced options in the bios (CTRL+F1). Changed it from 16x to 8x+8x. I guess the fact that it was set to 16x meant that the bus lanes for the 5th slot were being used by the 3rd slot.


----------



## necrox123

Hi. I'm having a problem when i restart my pc then i press f12 for boot setup then enter setup it's not directing to the BIOS it is only black screen but after i restart the system from the black screen it will continue to BIOS once i do the same procedure

The black screen is totally black. Because my monitor is not entering in sleep mode/standby mode

Here is the spec of my PC
FX 6300 (Stock clock)
Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 4.0 F2 Bios (Stock settings)
2x8gb Kingston HyperX Black 1600mhz CL10 (Not running on XMP)
Gainward Phantom GTX 660ti 2gb 192bit

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Regnitto

I just had something really weird and probably bad happen with my rig (see dream chaser in my sig for rig details). I turned it on, and just after it got to the windows login screen there was a loud POP (like a balloon popping or a cap gun going off) followed by the pc restarting and a weird smell. I did not see any smoke and all seems to be ok right now, but I am afraid it might have been a VRM or something like that......I can see nothing visually to confirm that though.

any ideas?


----------



## gijoe50000

I'd guess it's the power supply, but it's strange that the PC is still working.. Had a PSU do this to me before but it didn't work afterwards.. I'd say have a good sniff off the PSU, and maybe a look inside if possible.


----------



## gijoe50000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necrox123*
> 
> Hi. I'm having a problem when i restart my pc then i press f12 for boot setup then enter setup it's not directing to the BIOS it is only black screen but after i restart the system from the black screen it will continue to BIOS once i do the same procedure
> 
> The black screen is totally black. Because my monitor is not entering in sleep mode/standby mode
> 
> Here is the spec of my PC
> FX 6300 (Stock clock)
> Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 4.0 F2 Bios (Stock settings)
> 2x8gb Kingston HyperX Black 1600mhz CL10 (Not running on XMP)
> Gainward Phantom GTX 660ti 2gb 192bit
> 
> Thanks in advance!


If you're using a wireless mouse and keyboard it could be to do with those and/or the usb port they're connected to. maybe update or reinstall drivers. Otherwise check your startup items, might be antivirus running a boot scan or something similar. Or possibly a windows update that's not finished or completed? Have a look at event viewers startup log and see if anything is amiss..


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gijoe50000*
> 
> I'd guess it's the power supply, but it's strange that the PC is still working.. Had a PSU do this to me before but it didn't work afterwards.. I'd say have a good sniff off the PSU, and maybe a look inside if possible.


better not be, I just got this psu in november.


----------



## zila

@Regnitto: Did you remove the vrm heat sink and look under it to see if there is any damage under it? I had an Extreme9 pop the vrms and that sound that you described is exactly what it did plus the smell. A metal like smell. When I removed that heat sink that's where I found the damage.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> @Regnitto: Did you remove the vrm heat sink and look under it to see if there is any damage under it? I had an Extreme9 pop the vrms and that sound that you described is exactly what it did plus the smell. A metal like smell. When I removed that heat sink that's where I found the damage.


I have not taken anything apart......and if it is not the vrm, I have no thermal pads nor any cash to go get any at the moment to put on with the heat sink on re-installation. Everything seems to be running fine right now. been running 4 1/2 hrs and played Inquisition for a couple hours with no problems. I did find a dead spider on the motherboard near the usb headers.......any possibility it shorted something crawling around in there?


----------



## necrox123

Quote:


> If you're using a wireless mouse and keyboard it could be to do with those and/or the usb port they're connected to. maybe update or reinstall drivers. Otherwise check your startup items, might be antivirus running a boot scan or something similar. Or possibly a windows update that's not finished or completed? Have a look at event viewers startup log and see if anything is amiss..


No. I'm only using the logitech basic mouse and keyboard (all usb) Not a virus i think because it is newly formatted hard disk. It may not be software issue for me. I will just check my other parts. Feel free to help me especially to those experienced my issue. Thank you!


----------



## reeven

i am right that if TURBO is ON you cant set cpu voltage? In fact you can set to 1.2 for example but its at 1.4 in reality.


----------



## gijoe50000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> i am right that if TURBO is ON you cant set cpu voltage? In fact you can set to 1.2 for example but its at 1.4 in reality.


Turbo has an automatic voltage that's a bit over the top to ensure the cpu doesn't crash. So it's kind of generic I think. Turbo is a terrible idea if your thinking of overclocking as you could do some serious damage in my opinion. With turbo at stock my voltage was around 1.4 and way hotter than my 4.6 overclock.

I'd say turn it off and just overclock instead.


----------



## revro

so does the standard ga 990fx ud5 bios support 8350 out of the box? i think 8350 needs F10 bios and 8370 needs F12 bios, which isnt preinstalled.

thank you


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revro*
> 
> so does the standard ga 990fx ud5 bios support 8350 out of the box? i think 8350 needs F10 bios and 8370 needs F12 bios, which isnt preinstalled.
> 
> thank you


Unless it's been sitting on the shelf at the retailer for two or more years you shouldn't have a problem. Gigabyte is pretty good about sending boards out with semi up to date firmware. Also in the rare event it doesn't work Gigabyte will likely send you a new ROM. Or someone can send you an older chip to use to boot and flash. I have an AM3 Athlon II that would fill the role, worst case scenario.

Oh yeah, there's a guy on eBay that sells up to date BIOS ROMs for a reasonable price. Under $10 last time I did it.


----------



## ~kRon1k~

anyone know about the 990fxa-ud5 rev 3.1? what changes have been made?


----------



## necrox123

I have a BIOS issue when i press F7/Load optimized default in BIOS the option will pop up after 5 seconds. Does anyone experience this issue? Or do i need to rma my board?


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> I just had something really weird and probably bad happen with my rig (see dream chaser in my sig for rig details). I turned it on, and just after it got to the windows login screen there was a loud POP (like a balloon popping or a cap gun going off) followed by the pc restarting and a weird smell. I did not see any smoke and all seems to be ok right now, but I am afraid it might have been a VRM or something like that......I can see nothing visually to confirm that though.
> 
> any ideas?


Well.........it popped again last night, only this time it stayed dead........I saw a flash of light out of the corner of my eye when it popped this time, but it happened so fast I didn't see where it came from.

I've completely taken apart the motherboard (removed all heat sinks), but i'm not seeing any obvious signs of anything fried........all my cameras are down at the moment too, so once I get over to my friend's house I'll take some pics with his phone so that perhaps you guys can see something in those pics that I've missed......also I'm moving components to other computers to verify what is still good (damn that ud3 being the only board I own that supports am3+)

I may end up dusting off an Abit Fatal1ty AN9 32x with an athlon 64x2 4200+ for a while so I can have 2 computers (one for me and one for my girl)


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Well.........it popped again last night, only this time it stayed dead........I saw a flash of light out of the corner of my eye when it popped this time, but it happened so fast I didn't see where it came from.
> 
> I've completely taken apart the motherboard (removed all heat sinks), but i'm not seeing any obvious signs of anything fried........all my cameras are down at the moment too, so once I get over to my friend's house I'll take some pics with his phone so that perhaps you guys can see something in those pics that I've missed......also I'm moving components to other computers to verify what is still good (damn that ud3 being the only board I own that supports am3+)
> 
> I may end up dusting off an Abit Fatal1ty AN9 32x with an athlon 64x2 4200+ for a while so I can have 2 computers (one for me and one for my girl)


looks like i jumped to conclusions with what popped. It would seem the culprit was my 3 month old EVGA Supernova 750 B2 went out with a blast...........RMA time

edit: I think it's kinda sad that I've had better luck out of Coolmax PSUs than I have out of my first "good" psu....1/4 died after 5 years of use, other 3 still kicking.


----------



## AndreasDay

I'm new here, but I've made an account to clear something up
Quote:


> Q: In CPUID HWMonitor, which temp is what?
> A: TMPIN0 = system temp; TMPIN1 = CPU temp; TMPIN2 = NB temp


The above information is INCORRECT!

I noticed the temperatures here did not match up with temperature readings so began to look into it, and found that on all other sites this was what everyone believed to be correct.
I knew that this couldnt be right as the readings were off, so I contacted someone from Gigabyte and they explained the correct values of the TMPINS.
Quote:


> We've checked with our H/W team, this MB has only two sensors, one is for system sensor, and another is for CPU sensor. This MB doesn't have NB temperature sensor.
> 
> The TMPIN1 and TMPIN2 (from OpenHWMonitor) both show CPU temperature, the only difference is related to different CPU.
> 
> 1. If using the older CPU, the CPU temperature shows as Temperature#2 (eg: Athlon II X2 260, see the image-1 below)
> 
> 
> 
> 2. If using the newer CPU, the CPU temperature shows on Temperature#3 (eg: FX-6300, see the image-2 below)


So as you can see above, there is no northbridge sensor on these boards!
The sensors are for system temp, cpu core temp, and I believe the final one is the CPU socket temp.

I just wanted to clear up this misinformation and let everyone know that Gigabyte have confirmed there is no Northbridge sensor


----------



## Old Smoke

Hi All,
So i have been following you guys and this forum for a few years and finally have something to contribute.
I was an early adopter buying an ud3 when it first came out 3 years ago. I have a version 1.
A few cpu and video card changes over the years. Before this upgrade i was running a x4 970 at 3.8 for a year with a 560ti.
I just got a fx8350, new bios and it runs great at 4.5gig.
To complete the upgrade I also bought 8gigs of memory and a evga gtx960.

All went well until i put the video card in. It was only recognized as a generic vga adapter. i did the reinsert and reconnect cables several times, still a no-go. When i tried to install video drivers, nVidia said it found no compatible card.
I called newegg and they issued a rma, ordered another one and same result.
Called evga, they were great even though neither card was registered btw, they thought it was a possibly incompatible with my version 1 mobo. So I put the 560ti back in and all is back to normal.
I have searched online and have found no other people reporting this problem, so a asus sabertooth is being delivered tomorrow and i'll try that.

I have been extremely happy with this motherboard, it has been stable and overclocks really well and don't need to replace it if i could get the gtx960 to work.

Since you guys are the experts on this motherboard do you have any suggestions before i replace it.

System is:
ud3 ver:1
[email protected]
560ti
12gigs ddr3/1600
2-ssd
2-hhd
700watt coolermaster psu
dual boot: win7-32bit and win10 64bit


----------



## Mega Man

really sounds weird and not possible

me thinks doa card

do you have someones pc you can test the card in ( or another pc )

i bet its dead,

very rarely are pcie devices " not compatible "

and although evga is amazing ( wish they made red team stuff, then they would be the best )

sounds like a low level tech telling me " please power everything off and reboot " ( aka scripted/copout )


----------



## Old Smoke

i have 2 new evga gtx960s sitting here with same problem.
i don't think i'd get 2 bad ones.
there isn't anything online about these video cards having a problem.
thank anyways


----------



## gijoe50000

Have you uninstalled the previous drivers with DDU? might be worth a shot..


----------



## stickg1

@Old Smoke

Update the BIOS for your motherboard!! This has happened to me many times using older boards and brand new GPUs. Make sure your BIOS is up to date!


----------



## Old Smoke

yes i uninstalled the drivers but i had a nvidia card previously and the newest drivers, so it should find and have liked them.
the bios was updated to the latest before i installed the fx8350 last week.


----------



## ebduncan

call gigabyte.

You can change different pci-e settings in the bios. the 960 may have an issue with what yours is set to right now. You may need to press ctrl+F1 to access the advanced menu,

Seems odd though that you are having an issue. Should be plug and play. Did you reset the bios completely?


----------



## Old Smoke

yes i did reset bios and made sure right slot was selected for primary video.
tried other slots also.
thanks for the help


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Old Smoke*
> 
> yes i did reset bios and made sure right slot was selected for primary video.
> tried other slots also.
> thanks for the help


no there is another setting forget what its called off the top my head. It is default like 4:2:2 or something like that. I would go into the bios and look, but my ud3 is sitting in the box it came it, as its been retired in favor of my new board (asrock extreme 9)

You can only see this setting when you enter advanced setup (ctrl+ f1)


----------



## stickg1

Maybe it needs a BIOS released from Gigabyte. Chances of finding forum literate folk with the same board and cards is a needle in a haystack for sure. Submit a ticket to Gigabyte and see what they say.


----------



## Old Smoke

Saberkitty is up and running and guess what?
Neither of the 2 new evga gtx960s are recognized.
So i guess i got 2 bad ones.
The only thing i could do to test the video cards is drive 20 miles to a computer shop and ask them to test them.
I don't even know anyone with a modern pc, with pci-express slot, desktop up here in northern Michigan.
Lately i have been wearing out the credit card and the ups/fedex guys trying to resolve this.
The saberkitty is more advance and has higher potential than my ud3 with more usb and sata ports, higher clocked ram, and support for the 9000 series CPUs.
So i view this as an upgrade with the fx8350.
Thanks for the ideas guys, i'll let you know how it gets resolved.
Anyone want to buy a UD3, 970cpu, 560Ti, and 4gig ddr3?....lol


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## York

suggest reinstall your O.S. first, then install latest drivers and check again.


----------



## stickg1

That's so weird, the chances of getting two DOA cards is pretty slim. Are there any other 990FX and GTX 960 owners on this forum? See if there is a GTX 960 thread, maybe someone is having a similar issue?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's so weird, the chances of getting two DOA cards is pretty slim. Are there any other 990FX and GTX 960 owners on this forum? See if there is a GTX 960 thread, maybe someone is having a similar issue?


I had that card on my old UD3 and worked fine even with F5 bios.

I have the same GTX 960 card on my Sabertooth 990FX R2 and is working flawlessly.


----------



## Mega Man

I told him his cards are doa


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

yeah probably some electrostatic discharge fried them. Damn dry weather!


----------



## Old Smoke

They aren't dead, just not recognized.
Thought about maybe a video bios update, but i will just return them and get a asus strix 960.


----------



## Mega Man

>.>

they dont work in 2 computers? but they are not doa ?


----------



## Old Smoke

2 different motherboards, so i guess, yes 2 computers.
not much left of my original system.


----------



## Mega Man

but they dont work, yet are not doa ?


----------



## Old Smoke

yes, they work as generic vga adapter.


----------



## Mega Man

do they display anything when used as a main card ??


----------



## Old Smoke

yes they work as normal low resolution slow vga cards.


----------



## Mega Man

my apologies

that sounds as if a driver issue weather nvidia or another i dont know

** edit **

please note anything after this point is NOT to be taken Seriously

Or maybe you used more then 3.5gb +++ i know it is 970, but come on you didnt think i would leave it alone did you


----------



## Old Smoke

yes i know, as the cards are packed to ship back to newegg Monday. i have tried forcing nvidia drivers thru windows and they still are not recognized. i think it was prob a video bios problem.

it is a phenom2 970 that i settled at 3.8gig with good ram timings. my ud3 ran for 3 years rock solid and i wasn't even thinking about replacing it until evga suggested it to make their video cards work and i have gotten into a total upgrade, for want of a better video card. The msi 560ti hawk has been great too, it is just too far behind for new games. if the evga cards would have worked with this saberkitty i would have kept them both and sli'd them. Instead i have a asus strx 960 coming in Tuesday.

Really off topic, do you think the 560ti would be of any use as a physX card?


----------



## Mega Man

<< doesn't do nvidia sorry


----------



## ebduncan

sounds like you need to try to fresh install os. Or perhaps do a driver cleaner such as DDU, and then try to install drivers.


----------



## rakesh27

Guys,

Sorry to go off topic, is this normal.

Ever since ive had my PC, which ive built myself or upgraded along the years, when i want use my machine i power it on.

I use the beast for a few hours then shut her down, maybe power on every other day as i love PC gaming and stuff.

Ive done this for many years, is this normal, or should the beastie PC just stay on all the time.

What do you all do or think ?

Thanks all.....


----------



## CravinR1

8350 + 990fxa-ud3 4.5 ghz for over a year now 24/7


----------



## Old Smoke

it fixed itself late lastnight. i got an asus strix gtx960 yesterday, and had the same problem, standard vga.
The only old parts left was the case and the power supply. i have seen some off kilter readings before so wth, run to local pc shop and get largest ps they had, 700watt.
take time to install that and put the 2nd evga card in and same problem. a few hours fighting with it and nothing. then installed the asus stix, same problem. i was really baffled then.
one of the previous posters said reinstall windows, which i though wasn't needed, but with it dual booting win7 32bit and win10 64bit, i decided to install win10 over the win7.
that really messed them both up. after another few hours of getting the original win10 64bit back' i tried to install the nvidia drivers again and it took.
so it is running great and stable as hell.
And the Sabertooth has my fx8350 at 4.7 on default volts so far.
I have ended up with everything but a case and some better memory for the kitty, she'll take 1866mhz ddr3 and faster.
So my ud3 will live on as it was with the 560ti, but with win10 64bit and more memory.
thanks for all the help


----------



## Mega Man

next time i would highly recommend only buying quality psus ( not saying you didnt but your words are "i bought the biggest " which sounds like you selected on size VS quality )

it is the ONE thing in your system connected to everything that can take out everything

not to mention poor power quality affect the life of the equipment it is connected to

unfortunately alot of the relevant info is not easy to fine, nor is it easy to understand


----------



## Old Smoke

i have one pc shop in 20 miles. i wanted another quality 750 like the coolermaster one i had for 4 years.
they had 3 PSUs for sale this was the best i could get...lol
if it fails i will prob buy a modular one from newegg, but i wanted to eliminate it from the problem.
i don't know what caused windows to identify the video card, and i was just removing the last possible hardware problem.


----------



## stickg1

Might have needed a Windows update or something. Do you have it set to manual updates or auto?


----------



## Old Smoke

windows 10 demo is only automatic updates, and windows 7 was updated and it wouldn't recognize the video card either.


----------



## hatchet_warrior

Hi all, I'm looking for a little help.

I was having some issues with my computer not booting after the the post screen. I reverted my OC and things were better. I had a feeling my 955 was on its way out after years of being OC'd on air. I picked up an 8320E from Microcenter today expecting to plug it in and go tonight. Well I checked online and saw I needed a Bios update, basically using the beta version. No matter what method I try, I can not get my PC to boot with the new Bios. It will just power up for 5-8 seconds then shut off, and start again. I have to clear the cmos, then hold the power and reset buttons for 10 seconds to force the backup bios to kick in.

So I guess I need to know if I really need the newest bios, or if there is something better like an older FC beta version that actually works. I am currently on FB and planning on just swapping cpus to see what happens.

Thanks.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatchet_warrior*
> 
> Hi all, I'm looking for a little help.
> 
> I was having some issues with my computer not booting after the the post screen. I reverted my OC and things were better. I had a feeling my 955 was on its way out after years of being OC'd on air. I picked up an 8320E from Microcenter today expecting to plug it in and go tonight. Well I checked online and saw I needed a Bios update, basically using the beta version. No matter what method I try, I can not get my PC to boot with the new Bios. It will just power up for 5-8 seconds then shut off, and start again. I have to clear the cmos, then hold the power and reset buttons for 10 seconds to force the backup bios to kick in.
> 
> So I guess I need to know if I really need the newest bios, or if there is something better like an older FC beta version that actually works. I am currently on FB and planning on just swapping cpus to see what happens.
> 
> Thanks.


Are you using a closed loop liquid cooler by chance? If you are its quite possible you have a air bubble in the loop causing the pump to not get primed. Try wiggling the case when you turn it on etc. Also make sure its actually pluged in ;-)

If you don't have a closed loop cooler, make sure your cpu heatsink is making good contact with the cpu. If you power on for a short period of time and it shuts off and turns on its hitting the thermal shut down.


----------



## hatchet_warrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> If you don't have a closed loop cooler, make sure your cpu heatsink is making good contact with the cpu. If you power on for a short period of time and it shuts off and turns on its hitting the thermal shut down.


Everything is working fine right now, on the old bios. I can run any benchmark utility and my temps stay low. But the second I update the bios it starts the power on/off cycle and I have to restore the old bios again.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatchet_warrior*
> 
> Everything is working fine right now, on the old bios. I can run any benchmark utility and my temps stay low. But the second I update the bios it starts the power on/off cycle and I have to restore the old bios again.


is your cpu fan plugged into the cpu fan header? The new bios could be shutting the computer down because it doesn't detect the cpu fan spinning. (you can disable this in the bios as well)


----------



## hatchet_warrior

Yeah it is all hooked up properly. At this point I'm looking for an older version of the beta bios because there is nothing I can do with this newest version.


----------



## stickg1

On the Gigabyte website there are several revisions of the board. Make sure you are on the downloads page for the proper revision of your board. The choices are 1.0, 1.1, 3.0, and 4.0. Choosing the wrong one may (or may not) be the problem. But I'd look into to it to be sure. Should be on your motherboard's box and on the board itself.


----------



## hatchet_warrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> On the Gigabyte website there are several revisions of the board. Make sure you are on the downloads page for the proper revision of your board. The choices are 1.0, 1.1, 3.0, and 4.0. Choosing the wrong one may (or may not) be the problem. But I'd look into to it to be sure. Should be on your motherboard's box and on the board itself.


Yeah I double checked and I am getting the bios update for the rev3.0. The part that is a little confusing is that there is a rev3.1 that is able to use the FB bios that I have. There area also other gigabyte boards that are able to use older bios versions with this new chip.


----------



## hatchet_warrior

Ok so I sorted it all out. I needed to go to the FCb version first then update to FCh from there. Not that it makes any sense but it was the only way that it wanted to work. Once on FCh it did the reboot cycle 3 times then I was able to get into bios. I set everything up right and restarted. Same thing, reboots 3 times then boots normally. Now I have my 8320E in and working. Bumped it up to 4.0 on stock voltages. This one feels like a winner. Now I'm definitely getting a better cooler.


----------



## Tsine

Is this legit ? any suggestion ?


----------



## aaronsta1

Nope mine says it all the time. its a software glitch


----------



## ~kRon1k~

anyone get the UD5 R5 refresh? looks like just gold audio caps and a slightly higher snr audio codec.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *~kRon1k~*
> 
> anyone get the UD5 R5 refresh? looks like just gold audio caps and a slightly higher snr audio codec.


small improvements to the heatsink over the vrm as well.

I haven't seen them forsale anywhere. Not that it would matter I'd hate to say it but I won't be buying anymore AM3+ stuff. Not just because its a dead platform, but because there is literally no case anymore where I would build based around the FX cpu's. Skylake is around the corner, Zen is due first half of 2016, various other intel options are available which offer better performance and use less power.

I can still recommend some of the fm2+ stuff though. I'm getting ready to assemble a new media center computer for the family room based on the ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+ and the AMD A8-7600 APU.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> small improvements to the heatsink over the vrm as well.
> 
> I haven't seen them forsale anywhere. Not that it would matter I'd hate to say it but I won't be buying anymore AM3+ stuff. Not just because its a dead platform, but because there is literally no case anymore where I would build based around the FX cpu's. Skylake is around the corner, Zen is due first half of 2016, various other intel options are available which offer better performance and use less power.
> 
> I can still recommend some of the fm2+ stuff though. I'm getting ready to assemble a new media center computer for the family room based on the ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+ and the AMD A8-7600 APU.


I kind of have to agree. My "old" i7 920 still out performs my new 8350 in every game I play.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> I kind of have to agree. My "old" i7 920 still out performs my new 8350 in every game I play.


must be overclocked @ stock for both the 8350 is faster in 95% of benches vs the 920. Now the the 920 runs at 2.6 ghz stock though... mild overclock to mild overclock they are actually pretty similar.

http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/697?vs=47


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> must be overclocked @ stock for both the 8350 is faster in 95% of benches vs the 920. Now the the 920 runs at 2.6 ghz stock though... mild overclock to mild overclock they are actually pretty similar.
> 
> http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/697?vs=47


\

both are OC.. the 920 is running at 3.8 and the 8350 is 4.7


----------



## Mr Brothers

HI
First of im sorry if what im about to ask is already in the forum but its like almost 12000 post long.

Now.
SO im looking for a waterblock for "GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0)" Motherboard.

Preferable EK, but any manufacturer is fine.
Im looking for blocks for the hole motherboard but at least i need one for the NB as its getting hotter then hell.

So if there is anybody that know of a block or blocks i can use i do really appreciate it.

Thanks
Mr Brothers


----------



## Mega Man

Would need to get a custom block


----------



## Mr Brothers

.x¤%63%¤x.. ok so where do i get one of those. im guessing its cheaper to get a new MB...


----------



## Mega Man

Not really. Either a vrm block and a nb block I an on mobile and can't post links. By custom I mean generic as they don't make full board blocks


----------



## janice

i just got some new parts in the mail to tinker with, fx 8310 990fx ud5 v3

i started overclocking this weekend and its seems the cpu throttles a lot when running prime. im at 1.35v

1st ? i'm get to a 26c max TM on AOD after running prime for an hour or so, what is a safe number on AOD for temps with this 95watt guy

i started losing stability at 223mhz on the bus, i tried upping voltage but couldn't get it stable. i then started upping the multiplier, i got up to 4.6 on 1.35v but it is throttling pretty bad what would you do next, do i have room to up the voltage?

its been like 4 years since iv'e overclocked anything

also when i first set up the computer (all stock) windows 8.1 would freeze after living it alone for an hour or so. and it still does, any one had that problem?


----------



## mus1mus

Fill out the rigbuilder or list down your components.

People should be able to help you better.


----------



## Mega Man

i was able to look and it seems the new "ud3/5 r5" is just the newest mobo out, i think giga just wanted to get rid of crappy uefi bios ( ONLY TIME WILL TELL, i am guessing ) and as a "new" product they can


----------



## janice

just did did my rig


----------



## faizreds

What software can I use to control fan speed for GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0)? I'm using a PWM fan.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faizreds*
> 
> What software can I use to control fan speed for GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0)? I'm using a PWM fan.


SpeedFan is your best shot, however make it function correctly can be a little challenging the first time you use it.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faizreds*
> 
> What software can I use to control fan speed for GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev 4.0)? I'm using a PWM fan.


your best bet is speed fan..

the UD3 REV4 has 2 fan headers that has speed controls.. PWM1 and PWM2

to make speedfan work you have to go into the bios, set the fans to fullspeed, then go into settings, under advanced and set them to software controlled on the IT8728F controller.


----------



## faizreds

T
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronsta1*
> 
> your best bet is speed fan..
> 
> the UD3 REV4 has 2 fan headers that has speed controls.. PWM1 and PWM2
> 
> to make speedfan work you have to go into the bios, set the fans to fullspeed, then go into settings, under advanced and set them to software controlled on the IT8728F controller.


Thanks. What about gigabyte software? Do they have a software to control fan?


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faizreds*
> 
> T
> Thanks. What about gigabyte software? Do they have a software to control fan?


yes but it crashes on my computer at random times when idle.

it also doesnt have much of a fan curve like speedfan has. only 2 points.. cold and hot.


----------



## Mega Man

or you can get a aquaero and forget all your problems worth every penny, i even bought 6


----------



## faizreds

Can't find any shop selling Aquaero in my country( malaysia).


----------



## Mega Man

Aquatuning or aquacomputer directly


----------



## nidzakv

I brought Samsung 850 evo 250GB, and i got these speeds



It's should be 540/520 as advertised, and 4K speed are very low. i tried a lot tweaks, tutorials, disabled power savings of cpu in bios. Is there anything else i
can do or face that amd sata driver i just slow, or nor good enought? This platform is slow for maxing out ssd speeds?

Samsung magician says everything is connected well..

My pc

win 8.1 pro
fx6300 4100mhz
4gb 1866
ga990fxaud3 rev 4.0

F2 bios..


----------



## iwalkwithedead

I believe that I have a bad UD3 Rev. 4.0 or it really just can't handle my FX-9590. VRM's get up to 113c when playing BF4 or stress testing. Once I figured it out, I believe that I tried everything! and I stopped letting it go over 99c when trying to figure it out.

EDIT:
Also, the Refresh boards should be coming soon.
UD3-990FX and UD5-990FX R5 and I a UD3-990 R5 from what I seen.

Someone already mentioned this.


----------



## The Stilt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwalkwithedead*
> 
> I believe that I have a bad UD3 Rev. 4.0 or it really just can't handle my FX-9590. VRM's get up to 113c when playing BF4 or stress testing. Once I figured it out, I believe that I tried everything! and I stopped letting it go over 99c when trying to figure it out.
> 
> EDIT:
> Also, the Refresh boards should be coming soon.
> UD3-990FX and UD5-990FX R5 and I a UD3-990 R5 from what I seen.
> 
> Someone already mentioned this.


990FXA-UD3 is a low-end motherboard, not really intended for FX-9K series.
These budget board advertised as 220W compatible rely on thermal throttling.
Basically with throttling disabled the VRM would turn into smoke.

Do yourself a favor and get a proper board with a proper VRM (instead of that 4+1 phase); Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and Crosshair V Formula / -Z are the only boards really capable
to support FX-9K series reliably.


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Stilt*
> 
> 990FXA-UD3 is a low-end motherboard, not really intended for FX-9K series.
> These budget board advertised as 220W compatible rely on thermal throttling.
> Basically with throttling disabled the VRM would turn into smoke.
> 
> Do yourself a favor and get a proper board with a proper VRM (instead of that 4+1 phase); Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 and Crosshair V Formula / -Z are the only boards really capable
> to support FX-9K series reliably.


I love Asus but I cannot do that. I don't really like the ROG AMD Boards and the Sabertooth is very nice but I'm the color scheme weirdo and it would throw off everything, if they would love AMD a tad more and throw in the armor I would consider it.

The GA boards are 8+2. The UD3 can handle the 9K Series with the newer revisions and bios. Rev. 3 was horrible and the VRM issue is fixed in Rev 4.0 and 4.1. I have 3 friends with UD3, 1 with even Rev 1.0 and it handles their 9K Series.

I do agree that it's a low-end budget board but it's a monster motherboard, I just think I found a bad one that's all.









I will RMA it eventually and if needed try a UD5 (even though there is blue in it) or the refreshed models coming out.


----------



## SavageBrat

Please as the Gigabyte 990 FXA-UD7 can also handle the 9 series..


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Please as the Gigabyte 990 FXA-UD7 can also handle the 9 series..


Yes and rare to find, even used at or under retail pricing.

I think they only made 10, lol.

300$ for the mb is cheapest I found for used in US at least.


----------



## SavageBrat

I think I have the only one in Jordan..possibly the whole middle east..lol


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> I think I have the only one in Jordan..possibly the whole middle east..lol


lol I believe it.


----------



## aaroc

If you wait and look e stores like newegg, amazon, tigerdirect and ebay you can buy a UD7. I bought 2 new and one used in the last 12 month. They support the FX 9590 just fine. I bought the last two hopping that one of them will support 4dimm 32 GB RAM faster than 1333. Only 2 dimm 16GB running at 2133.

*For the people using 4 GPUs on the UD7*, how do you connect the USB 2.0 headers bellow the fourth GPU? I had to disconnect them so that the EK terminal stopped leaking. they make the last GPU be in a different angle and not parallel to the other three GPUs.

I just ordered a low profile usb3 connector from moddiy, but didn find low profile usb 2.0. Can I just cut the usb connectora few mm?


----------



## Mega Man

It is really hard just gotta smash it.

I hate quadfire boards with headers on the bottom. ... but they all are


----------



## ~kRon1k~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> I think I have the only one in Jordan..possibly the whole middle east..lol


I wonder if I have the only one in NY lol


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nidzakv*
> 
> I brought Samsung 850 evo 250GB, and i got these speeds
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's should be 540/520 as advertised, and 4K speed are very low. i tried a lot tweaks, tutorials, disabled power savings of cpu in bios. Is there anything else i
> can do or face that amd sata driver i just slow, or nor good enought? This platform is slow for maxing out ssd speeds?
> 
> Samsung magician says everything is connected well..
> 
> My pc
> 
> win 8.1 pro
> fx6300 4100mhz
> 4gb 1866
> ga990fxaud3 rev 4.0
> 
> F2 bios..


Yeah, something isn't right. These are the results I get with my 840 EVO 120GB



Oops, forgot a question. Have you tried using the Magician software, running all the performance test and tweaks it offers?


----------



## BuZADAM

@ Mega Man

I am using h100i 4x noctua nf-f12 pwm fans for cooling fx9590. There is no overclock. After I Play bf4 2 or 3 hours my cpu package temp 58C and run cinebench over 3 hours played bf4 my temp goes 65C.

Is that normal ?

my mb 990fxa-ud7 rev1.0 bios f11d


----------



## BuZADAM

Room temp 22-24C

safe temp for core 61c socket temp 72 fx9590 ?


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> @ Mega Man
> 
> I am using h100i 4x noctua nf-f12 pwm fans for cooling fx9590. There is no overclock. After I Play bf4 2 or 3 hours my cpu package temp 58C and run cinebench over 3 hours played bf4 my temp goes 65C.
> 
> Is that normal ?
> 
> my mb 990fxa-ud7 rev1.0 bios f11d


The FX9590 runs hot, even worse, the temp reporting can be inaccurate. Check to see that the cooler is mounted properly with the right amount of TIM. It could be an incorrect reading. Is your cooler hot to the touch when it says it is at 65C?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> @ Mega Man
> 
> I am using h100i 4x noctua nf-f12 pwm fans for cooling fx9590. There is no overclock. After I Play bf4 2 or 3 hours my cpu package temp 58C and run cinebench over 3 hours played bf4 my temp goes 65C.
> 
> Is that normal ?
> 
> my mb 990fxa-ud7 rev1.0 bios f11d


Yes that sounds right. Your dealing with a aio.

H100 is generally good for 4.8ish


----------



## BuZADAM

@ tauwulf

first, thanks for your interest.

when temp says 65c ı touch radiator and hose hot but not much

@ mega man

what is top limit core temp for 9590 ? do you know? some one say 61 some one 72 c


----------



## Mega Man

according to aod ( amd over driver ) 72,

you will notice if you download it it shows thermal margin

basically @ 0 it is 72,

and just to be clear, that is the min cooler recommended ( aio/240 )


----------



## kronickiller

hey i got this motherboard a while ago
990fxa-ud3 rev 4 and a 9590
i know its a new mofset
but are they gonna blow up running folding at home lol
its freaking hot acording to hwinfo
t1 and t2


----------



## kronickiller

i cant seem to find anythign what max temp is for the vrms for rev 4


----------



## reeven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Yeah, something isn't right. These are the results I get with my 840 EVO 120GB
> 
> 
> 
> Oops, forgot a question. Have you tried using the Magician software, running all the performance test and tweaks it offers?


you have RAPID MODE ON. With it of speed are 500mb or so, not 2500mb.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> you have RAPID MODE ON. With it of speed are 500mb or so, not 2500mb.


z

At the time, I thought it was off and apparently smoking something.

Insomnia is a PITA.

These are the non-rapid numbers


----------



## bloodr0se

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kronickiller*
> 
> hey i got this motherboard a while ago
> 990fxa-ud3 rev 4 and a 9590
> i know its a new mofset
> but are they gonna blow up running folding at home lol
> its freaking hot acording to hwinfo
> t1 and t2


Why would you even try to run a chip like that on this board? That's a recipe for disaster.

The board is good for the older chips but it isn't even capable of running the fx-8350 safely. I had to change to a Crosshair Formula Z for that reason although I am now considering ditching AMD altogether.


----------



## kronickiller

got the 9590 volted down to 1.48
better than the stock voltage of 1.52 from gigabytes stupid settings or the chips
instead of the 110c boinc temps
down to 90c on the vrm's


----------



## bloodr0se

Seriously, stop running that processor on that board, you are going to kill either one of them or both eventually.


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodr0se*
> 
> Why would you even try to run a chip like that on this board? That's a recipe for disaster.
> 
> The board is good for the older chips but it isn't even capable of running the fx-8350 safely. I had to change to a Crosshair Formula Z for that reason although I am now considering ditching AMD altogether.


I have to disagree with you.
It can handle the 8350 like a champ and the 9590. The Crosshair, of course, would be the best option for the 9590. A 8350 has been on many lower or budget boards and people love it. A lot have even overclocked theirs without any temp issues.
I have a few friends that even have the older revisions that run 9590 without a single issue. Mine, Rev4.0 even ran it with ease for a few months, it is a budget board but man it's a monster!
Revision 4 supposed to have fixed any VRM issues and it probably has. Just bad luck I guess.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kronickiller*
> 
> got the 9590 volted down to 1.48
> better than the stock voltage of 1.52 from gigabytes stupid settings or the chips
> instead of the 110c boinc temps
> down to 90c on the vrm's


The safe temp for VRM on that board is 80c
Make sure you are and have been using the latest bios. F3i
You will have to RMA and try again, if not fixed then get a better MB.

I am in the same situation. I have a video of it as well, with 9590 and 8350 both, my VRM would still hit 100+c. 114c with 9590 and I stopped at 99c with 8350. I have tried everything even using a fan to cool vrm and GA gave me a unreleased beta still no go. I replicated their results for me and sent me this.


Spoiler: My infromation!



Their Testing (although now looking at it, was only taken a few seconds in :/)


My testing



Video







One my RMA is over with and it's not fixed or even if it is I will most likely be going for the Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0, because for some reason I think the Crosshair is ugly. I can't explain it either, I just do.


----------



## kronickiller

under normal use it wont hit above or near 90
it was only running things like boinc and [email protected] it hits 90 after a hour
otherwise the rev 4 runs good
guess i will just keep away from running those lol or put a fan on it if i do


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kronickiller*
> 
> under normal use it wont hit above or near 90
> it was only running things like boinc and [email protected] it hits 90 after a hour
> otherwise the rev 4 runs good
> guess i will just keep away from running those lol or put a fan on it if i do


Anything light for me is normal temps, even play games like BF4 it hits them highs. That's when I noticed something was wrong with mine.


----------



## kronickiller

just tested grand theft auto 5 maxed out msaa 2
maxed out arround 68C for the vrms
the .04 off the vcore loses soo much heat lol
used to hit up to 96c on gta5


----------



## kronickiller

topped out at 69c on battlefield 4
looks like its fixed till i get to c what the summer heat brings lol


----------



## BuZADAM

HI ALL

I have some question about 990fxa ud7 and fx 9590 cpu

ı am using gigabyte 990fxa ud7 rev1.0 f11d and fx9590 stock.

in bios settings should ı use cpu host clock control auto or manual ?


----------



## BuZADAM

when ı set cpu host clock control auto , cpu voltage 1.55 idle , 1.44 under load

when ı set manual cpu voltage 1.45 idle , 1.36 under load.

so am ı use auto or manual for 9590 fx


----------



## Mega Man

sorry i dont have that option, so no idea


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry i dont have that option, so no idea


You can see option under m.i.t menu


----------



## Mega Man

no i cant as rev 3.0 does not have it


----------



## iwalkwithedead

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> HI ALL
> 
> I have some question about 990fxa ud7 and fx 9590 cpu
> 
> ı am using gigabyte 990fxa ud7 rev1.0 f11d and fx9590 stock.
> 
> in bios settings should ı use cpu host clock control auto or manual ?


The less volts you need the better for stock. If you are stable with no blue screens and issues at manual 1.45v then the better.


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no i cant as rev 3.0 does not have it


Hi mega man ,

you didnt read my post carefully . ı did say ı am using ud7 rev1.0









you can see this option

advanced frequency settings , BCLK Clock Control. For rev 3.0 : D

are you using auto or manual


----------



## BuZADAM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwalkwithedead*
> 
> The less volts you need the better for stock. If you are stable with no blue screens and issues at manual 1.45v then the better.


hi iwalkwithedead , thanks your interest.

ı am going to some test manual settings. like you say , if ı am not get blue screen or etc, ı will use manual.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no i cant as rev 3.0 does not have it
> 
> 
> 
> Hi mega man ,
> 
> you didnt read my post carefully . ı did say ı am using ud7 rev1.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you can see this option
> 
> advanced frequency settings , BCLK Clock Control. For rev 3.0 : D
> 
> are you using auto or manual
Click to expand...

No I read it just fine.

This is the first and last time I will say this.

My FSB is 300. There is no auto or manual. Normally it is 200. You can set it to what ever you want.


----------



## Wonderbread24

Just picked up a second hand 990FXA-UD3 Rev 4.0. Upgraded from a 970A-D3 Rev 1.0. I also put an FX-6300 in it.

Everything was going fine until my External HDD no longer shows up in the OS. I took a look at the device manager and the VIA USB3 controller is no longer shown in the list. I checked my BIOS to make sure it wasn't disabled everything seemed normal.

I've gone back into the OS, removed the drivers and tired to reinstall them but no luck, I get an error saying that it can't find the device... Not sure what to do now... I'm thinking I'm going to have to scrap this board and go back to my 970







.

I've tried disabling the XHCI option in the BIOS and it worked to get the OS to see the controller to reinstall the drivers but after a restart of the OS it was gone again...Enabling it again has no effect. Not sure what to do. Reinstalling the OS doesn't fix it either.

*Screens*

Edit: words


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wonderbread24*
> 
> Just picked up a second hand 990FXA-UD3 Rev 4.0. Upgraded from a 970A-D3 Rev 1.0. I also put an FX-6300 in it.
> 
> Everything was going fine until my External HDD no longer shows up in the OS. I took a look at the device manager and the VIA USB3 controller is no longer shown in the list. I checked my BIOS to make sure it wasn't disabled everything seemed normal.
> 
> I've gone back into the OS, removed the drivers and tired to reinstall them but no luck, I get an error saying that it can't find the device... Not sure what to do now... I'm thinking I'm going to have to scrap this board and go back to my 970
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I've tried disabling the XHCI option in the BIOS and it worked to get the OS to see the controller to reinstall the drivers but after a restart of the OS it was gone again...Enabling it again has no effect. Not sure what to do. Reinstalling the OS doesn't fix it either.
> 
> *Screens*
> 
> Edit: words


External. hmm you mean a USB Hard Drive?

Make sure of the USB Cable.
Make sure of the Port it is plugged in to.

Also check if you can get in the Disk Management.
*Windows Key > (type) Administrative Tools > Computer Management > Storage > Disk Management*
You might need to assign a Drive Letter for the device if it's there.


----------



## Wonderbread24

Yes, external HDD. The HDD is fine, I have 2/3 of it full already. I was able to get it to work again by enabling and the disabling the XHCI setting in the BIOS.

But I'm having another issue and I can't see to figure out what's causing it. I get random reboots. All drivers are current, and I'm running the F3i BIOS.

Full Specs:
FX-6300
990FXA-UD3 Rev4.0
Corsair Vengence DDR3-1600
XFX HD6950
SeaSonic 750w PSU

These reboots can happen at any time. Usually when playing BF4 or GTA5 but sometimes I'll get up in the morning and find that it has rebooted. I've scoured the eventlog each time the reboots happen and Nothing except that windows was shutdown improperly.

CPU is not Overclocked, running stock with boost turned off. Memory is good, carried over from my old build, 970A-D3/955 BE. Not sure what to do at this point. I'm about ready to put my 970 board back in to see if its the board or the FX-6300.


----------



## reeven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wonderbread24*
> 
> Just picked up a second hand 990FXA-UD3 Rev 4.0. Upgraded from a 970A-D3 Rev 1.0. I also put an FX-6300 in it.
> 
> Everything was going fine until my External HDD no longer shows up in the OS. I took a look at the device manager and the VIA USB3 controller is no longer shown in the list. I checked my BIOS to make sure it wasn't disabled everything seemed normal.
> 
> I've gone back into the OS, removed the drivers and tired to reinstall them but no luck, I get an error saying that it can't find the device... Not sure what to do now... I'm thinking I'm going to have to scrap this board and go back to my 970
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I've tried disabling the XHCI option in the BIOS and it worked to get the OS to see the controller to reinstall the drivers but after a restart of the OS it was gone again...Enabling it again has no effect. Not sure what to do. Reinstalling the OS doesn't fix it either.
> 
> *Screens*
> 
> Edit: words


because of usb 3.0. all does that with any device, usb tuner, external drives, flashes, etc. After restart usb 3.0 controller is gone.
Fix- use only shutdown, no restart.
Also sometimes after restart usb 3.0 is there, but quite rare.
Via, Etron, Asmedia does that, dont know about Nec controller.
For me this usb 3.0 is an failure by design.
Via says that this bug is fixed ( yeah right) , Gigabyte says nothing and if you talk with any device producer( like western digital, terratec, etc) they says its not their fault.

Edit : on google problem is quite known:

https://www.google.ro/search?q=usb+3.0+dissapear+after+restart&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=ImZQVfP0B8azUf7agMAM


----------



## reeven

As an fix for usb 3.0 dissapearing is this :
http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_vista-hardware/what-does-usb-selective-suspend-mean/71fa747b-914f-4d17-b476-cf4bb1bb783c

Disable usb selective suspend, but for me is not working.
Second, with this one disabled my external hard drives( all 2.5 and 1.8' wd passport slim, passport ultra, a-data( seagate inside), 1-2tb, toshiba canvio all series 2.5) are always powered on, even if my PC is shutdown.
That mean huge hours for an hdd drive, like almost 9000 hours/year.


----------



## MTup

While stressing 4.7 GHz on my UD5 R5 with IBT I noticed hwinfo64 did not show pmbus with the VR T1and T2 temps. I went to the setup and the option was not there. Is this indicative for the UD5?


----------



## itgl72

I have one of these. I dont know what the issue is right now with me and it or something else connected to it but the system is just shutting down on me. This is something I built for my kids. I had a heart issue so I swapped out some parts like a cpu cooler and new case. Set it up again and I get that dreaded completed shutdown.

I am so disheartened right now.

I swapped out the parts into a new case and added the cpu cooler. Here is what I changed into:

Rosewill CHALLENGER-U3
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147060

Cooler Master Hyper T4
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103182

At desktop, it seems very cool. 20C or less. When I load a game or run 3dmark demo its about 30, under 40C so cooling temperature no longer seems like an issue.

But it still SHUTS DOWN. I have to pull the power cable for a moment out of the Power Supply, and then put it back in for the power button on the case to let me start it up again.

So now I'm like, what do I do with this thing? All new parts, something is making it shut down under game load (or 3dmark load) and the temperature is fine.

Rest of my setup in this PC:

AMD FX-8320 Vishera 8-Core 3.5GHz
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128509

Corsair CX750
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139040

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233218

GIGABYTE GA-990FXA-UD5 AM3+
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128509

AMD XFX Radeon HD 6950

Well, any suggestions for a next step? i wish I could look at a log that would tell me, this is why this is shutting down.... ugh....

http://speccy.piriform.com/results/2iLGcAEBxsbCXuJ8VA2d1ZA


----------



## iwalkwithedead

If the PC doesn't freeze, bsod and just shuts completely down, my guess would be PSU, I assume you haven't overclocked anything.

Are you using Speccy to monitor temps while doing your tests?

Try using HWMonitor or HWiNFO64 this way you can monitor voltages and other temp sensors. I prefer HWiNFO64 myself because it has a little more things that I like but it's up to you.


----------



## The Stilt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> While stressing 4.7 GHz on my UD5 R5 with IBT I noticed hwinfo64 did not show pmbus with the VR T1and T2 temps. I went to the setup and the option was not there. Is this indicative for the UD5?


990FXA-UD5 R5 has analog VRM which doesn´t support temperature or any other telemetry through I2C.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Stilt*
> 
> 990FXA-UD5 R5 has analog VRM which doesn´t support temperature or any other telemetry through I2C.


Do you know why the VRM's are analog and not digital? I have a fan controller and temp probes. The one for the VRM HS is located at the bottom of the HS and the temp is almost 20 deg C cooler than my UD3P rev 1.0. In hwinfo64 I do show temperature's 1-6 though.


----------



## itgl72

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iwalkwithedead*
> 
> If the PC doesn't freeze, bsod and just shuts completely down, my guess would be PSU, I assume you haven't overclocked anything.
> 
> Are you using Speccy to monitor temps while doing your tests?
> 
> Try using HWMonitor or HWiNFO64 this way you can monitor voltages and other temp sensors. I prefer HWiNFO64 myself because it has a little more things that I like but it's up to you.


Thats exactly whats happening, it doesnt freeze or any of that it just straight up shuts down when I load up a (for testing I used RUST, and as soon as the map comes on and you're playing, soon after it shuts down) a game, or run the 3dmark benchmark software. I have not overclocked. I used coretemp just to monitor CPU and it never got to 40C once the game was running and right before it shut down. Originally I thought that was the issue, hence why I swapped everything into a case that had 3 additional bigger fans and a T4 heatsink on that CPU.

I have access to a ZU-1000B power supply. I'm planning on swapping that out tonight.


----------



## The Stilt

20°C lower than on UD3P measured with the same method (external probe)?
If the UD3P temperatures come from HWInfo then they are not comparable.

The efficiency is probably slightly higher on UD5 and probably the PCB is slighly thicker too.
You can check the number of PCB layers from the "window" found in the lower left corner.
Make sure you measure the VRM temperature from the CPU phases (center of the VRM) and not the NB phases.
On most designs the VRM temperature sensor is placed next to the inductors so you might measure the temperature from there.

Reason not to use digital controller and their pretty much bundled drivers?
Cost.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Stilt*
> 
> 20°C lower than on UD3P measured with the same method (external probe)?
> If the UD3P temperatures come from HWInfo then they are not comparable.
> 
> The efficiency is probably slightly higher on UD5 and probably the PCB is slighly thicker too.
> You can check the number of PCB layers from the "window" found in the lower left corner.
> Make sure you measure the VRM temperature from the CPU phases (center of the VRM) and not the NB phases.
> On most designs the VRM temperature sensor is placed next to the inductors so you might measure the temperature from there.
> 
> Reason not to use digital controller and their pretty much bundled drivers?
> Cost.


Yes it's measured with the same method. You can see on my sig rig where it's located and have one on the NB also. I'm mobile now so can't check PCB but I can say that it is much thicker than the UD3P.


----------



## kronickiller

new bios is out for the rev 4
f3 is no longer beta f3i
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#bios
installed it and works
seems more stable so far


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kronickiller*
> 
> new bios is out for the rev 4
> f3 is no longer beta f3i
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4672#bios
> installed it and works
> seems more stable so far


wonder if they fixed all the issues.. f3i woudnt even boot on my system, it kept saying no bootable device found if i had the sata in acpi mode.


----------



## aaroc

If you are using Raid0 for windows, what do you use? The AMD embedded Raid BIOS controller or Windows Stripped Volume or other solutions?


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> If you are using Raid0 for windows, what do you use? The AMD embedded Raid BIOS controller or Windows Stripped Volume or other solutions?


when i set mine up i used the built in raid. windows saw it as a huge drive.


----------



## Regnitto

Retired my ud3 rev 4 and 6100 after popping 2 psus. Now running msi h97 PC mate and i5 4690


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Retired my ud3 rev 4 and 6100 after popping 2 psus. Now running msi h97 PC mate and i5 4690


Why u no unlocked multi?

Anyways, good luck buddy


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Why u no unlocked multi?
> 
> Anyways, good luck buddy


Honestly don't need unlocked multi since the i5 at stock out performs 6100 @ 4.8, lol


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Why u no unlocked multi?
> 
> Anyways, good luck buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly don't need unlocked multi since the i5 at stock out performs 6100 @ 4.8, lol
Click to expand...

That's not what I am into. a 4690K Overclocked will always be better than a non-k model. All I'm saying.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That's not what I am into. a 4690K Overclocked will always be better than a non-k model. All I'm saying.


I'm not arguing that point at all, all I'm saying is the non-k is enough for my needs. Plus, it keeps me from countless hours of tweaking and accidentally frying my rig again trying to push the limits too far.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> I'm not arguing that point at all, all I'm saying is the non-k is enough for my needs. Plus, it keeps me from countless hours of tweaking and accidentally frying my rig again trying to push the limits too far.


Not here too.









Big point on tweaking. Rep following!


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not here too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big point on tweaking. Rep following!


Thanks for the rep ?
One question, does it still count as devils canyon without the k? ?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Regnitto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Not here too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Big point on tweaking. Rep following!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the rep ?
> One question, does it still count as devils canyon without the k? ?
Click to expand...

Only the unlocked count.

http://ark.intel.com/products/codename/81246/Devils-Canyon


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Only the unlocked count.
> 
> http://ark.intel.com/products/codename/81246/Devils-Canyon


Oh, well. Still a good performing chip. On a side note, upgraded my wifey to Kavari with the A10-7850k for mother's day. Left it at stock tho...


----------



## mus1mus

^ True. With the improvement on their TIM over Haswell, cooling them will be easier. Not that they heat up a lot but because the cores are heating up with dissipating to the Heatsink.


----------



## Regnitto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ^ True. With the improvement on their TIM over Haswell, cooling them will be easier. Not that they heat up a lot but because the cores are heating up with dissipating to the Heatsink.


Reused my h100i anyway ?


----------



## reeven

latest oficial f3 bios seems ok, except an forever bug on my sistem:

Only one bug i have with any bios version. If i disable turbo mode on my 8350 and then set multiplier to 21, it wont boot.
I need to set 21.5 or 22 multiplier, then try again with 21 multi.
If i enter now in bios, set 21x multi turbo off my PC wont boot.

Anyone notice this?


----------



## aaronsta1

i couldnt get F3 to boot up.. if i over clock the cpu just a little bit it woudlnt post.

on F2 bios i run my cpu at 23 multi with turbo off and 1.3+0.1125v with LLC on medium

it gives me a stable 4.6

1.425 just happens to be the vid for my chip so its below "stock" voltage.


----------



## reeven

1.425 is 4.2ghz voltage, 1.41v is for 4.1ghz.
mine is 1.3625 at 4ghz turbo off stock voltage , he need 1.344 real load voltage for 4.2ghz, 1.36 real load voltage for 4.4ghz to be stable in Prime95 BLEND.
With any software i could undervolt -50mv then with Blend.
And its stable at 1.50v real load voltage in Blend at 5ghz. Here i have 400w usage in gtaV with r9 290.


----------



## ban25

Any impressions on the R5? My CVFZ has been flaky as of late and the UD7 is practically impossible to find, so I've been thinking about trying this board as a replacement.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ban25*
> 
> Any impressions on the R5? My CVFZ has been flaky as of late and the UD7 is practically impossible to find, so I've been thinking about trying this board as a replacement.


Going from a top flight ASUS AM3+ board to any Gigabyte AM3+ board would be crazy. Gigabyte makes revision after revision of their AMD boards for one reason. They can't get them right. Terrible BIOS, thermal throttling.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Going from a top flight ASUS AM3+ board to any Gigabyte AM3+ board would be crazy. Gigabyte makes revision after revision of their AMD boards for one reason. They can't get them right. Terrible BIOS, thermal throttling.


Is only true for budget AM3+ giga boards.

Once you step unto a UD5 and a UD7,the mentioned issues are non existent.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Is only true for budget AM3+ giga boards.
> 
> Once you step unto a UD5 and a UD7,the mentioned issues are non existent.


Many people posted problems with throttling with earlier UD5's. The UD5 R5 is too new and not many forum members have posted anything about them. UD7? Probably a fine board for the twelve people on this earth who actually own one.


----------



## Mega Man

hey i own 2 ! and both have quadfire how do you kwno what he wants? maybe 4 revo drives ? 8 ?

add in there is not a giga board made that solid now, imo

i also own saberkitty and CVFz and a ga-970a-ud3 ( 2 )


----------



## MTup

I never had thermal throttle with my UD3P and not with my UD5 R5 either. I'm fairly new at overclocking and had my R5 boot at 5.0GHz (FX-8350) just didn't have time to get it stable enough. That and the fact that I'm still learning tweeks. I like my R5 and have noticed the VRM's are cooler on this board than the UD3P. I use a fan controller and temp probes so that's where I get that info from. 4.7GHz was easy with multi and vcore. 1 bump up to 2400 NB freq and that's it.


----------



## ban25

I'm running the 9590 and it's taken some months, but I have managed to stabilize it on the CVFZ by disabling turbo core and bumping up VCore. That said, I haven't had any luck going past 4.7 GHz, and I'm periodically running into the AA-code boot failure ("Overclocking failed"), even when I'm just at 4.7.

So at this point, I've got a few options left to try:

- More Cooling
- New Motherboard

I have a set of Delta AFB1212GHE-CF00 fans on order. I'm going to swap those in on Monday and see if there's any improvement. Otherwise, I might look into a UD5 R5.


----------



## Mega Man

sorry i cant help but the 8xxx club might


----------



## ban25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry i cant help but the 8xxx club might


Thanks, man. I was mostly hoping to hear impressions from any UD5 R5 owners. A guy on the ROG forums who had the same issue reported that the UD7 had better stability, but it's so hard to find that board.


----------



## mus1mus

Visit the Vishera thread. The folks are welcoming and helpful enough to get you through those issues.


----------



## SavageBrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Many people posted problems with throttling with earlier UD5's. The UD5 R5 is too new and not many forum members have posted anything about them. UD7? Probably a fine board for the twelve people on this earth who actually own one.


darn I'm one of the 12 folks that have one..lol


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> darn I'm one of the 12 folks that have one..lol


Rev 1 UD7 reporting for duty


----------



## SavageBrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Rev 1 UD7 reporting for duty


oh a rev 1.. i have the rev 3..


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> oh a rev 1.. i have the rev 3..


Rev 1 is a good board. Well apart from the non uefi bios and the horrid horrid vdroop, plus GB not having LLC on their top tier AMD board then turning their backs and fixing it all in later revisions and leaving the R1 owners high and dry


----------



## SavageBrat

I have to say I really like mine, but i haven't really stress it with the 6 core in it but I going to put an 8370 in it at the end of the month so we'll see how it does.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Yeah it was just the R1 that were awful, barely got my 1090T to 4.0 without hideous amounts of vcore to compensate for the vdroop.


----------



## SavageBrat

I run my 6300 @4,5 with 1.308 volts with llc on high, 4.7 I need 1.400 and then it takes a big jump @ 4,8 to 1.450 but it's stable..that's why I really haven't jump to an 8 core yet because for what i do with my computer it works fine..


----------



## p5ych00n5

I got early adopter curse I suppose


----------



## fidof650

OP reporting in and still rockin a UD7 Rev. 1

Incidentally, I'm also still rockin the 890FXA-UD5 R1 from when I started that club over 5 years ago. Both run 24/7/365 aside from restarts and tinkering. God I love thes boards.

~fidof650


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> I have to say I really like mine, but i haven't really stress it with the 6 core in it but I going to put an 8370 in it at the end of the month so we'll see how it does.


If you are planning on an 8370, do some hunting to get the known good batches.

1429 - Low leakage - Low Voltage
1433PGS or PGY - Prolly not as good as 1429s but still, can do 5.0 with less than 1.5 Vcore
1432PGY (Got 2 samples ) - not as good as the 2 up top but can also do 5GHz with less than 1.5 Vcore.

Heat Production is a known downside for the newer chips. But if you get lucky ( like me







) 5.2 with just a hair under 1.6Vcore but runs cool. On water













By the way, I also have an 8320E before this one. Of the same Batch 1432PGY. But that is a little harder to tame temp-wise. Vcore at 1.5 runs in the 70s. Lapping helped it but not of the level of this 8370E.
Prolly why they binned it lower.

Good luck


----------



## SavageBrat

Thank you for the info but unfortunately being in Jordan we really don't have a lot of choices here where we can buy our cpu as we only have 2 shops here that may carry a few AMD chip and one is usually out..lol


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Thank you for the info but unfortunately be in Jordan we really don't have a lot of choices here where we can buy our cpu as we only have 2 shops here that may carry a few AMD chip and one is usually out..lol


I understand. I even have a chance for a 1433 which is a known clocker but demn store! Only sells CPUs with a Mobo Bundle!

Ugh! But I'm happy with my pick!


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Rev 1 is a good board. Well apart from the non uefi bios and the horrid horrid vdroop, plus GB not having LLC on their top tier AMD board then turning their backs and fixing it all in later revisions and leaving the R1 owners high and dry


That is Gigabyte AM3+ boards in a nutshell. Nothing but screwjobs for their customers. Revision after revision because they never seem to get it right.


----------



## reeven

Yes i used MSI intel board ( lots of them), Intel, Asus, even Asrock, Epox, DFI etc but my 990 board from Gigacrap are not so good. hardware is build to last, but software( bios), slow boot.
My PC is in win7 in 45sec or more with Samsuck latest ssd .My bios info screen came at about 20sconds or more, and on any other board this screen with cpu info, memory info etc came at about 2 seconds after i click start my pc.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> Yes i used MSI intel board ( lots of them), Intel, Asus, even Asrock, Epox, DFI etc but my 990 board from Gigacrap are not so good. hardware is build to last, but software( bios), slow boot.
> My PC is in win7 in 45sec or more with Samsuck latest ssd .My bios info screen came at about 20sconds or more, and on any other board this screen with cpu info, memory info etc came at about 2 seconds after i click start my pc.


Ha! It's problably doing the dual boot thing. Have you tried to go to BIOS and set Turbo to enabled? This is what solves the matter on the 970 UD3P.

My opinion on Gigabyte is the same. The motherboard itself feels like a tank. Very sturdy. But the UEFI is user-unfriendly. Even the colours they used are just wrong. When you select something, you 're not sure whether you are actually selecting or unselecting it. You have to try and see. And the big thing is what ChrisJames says. If they have a BIOS glitch, they don't seem to worry about fixing it. Instead they just release a new board revision!


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Ha! It's problably doing the dual boot thing. Have you tried to go to BIOS and set Turbo to enabled? This is what solves the matter on the 970 UD3P.
> 
> My opinion on Gigabyte is the same. The motherboard itself feels like a tank. Very sturdy. But the UEFI is user-unfriendly. Even the colours they used are just wrong. When you select something, you 're not sure whether you are actually selecting or unselecting it. You have to try and see. And the big thing is what ChrisJames says. If they have a BIOS glitch, they don't seem to worry about fixing it. Instead they just release a new board revision!


Can't figure it out with Gigabyte. They had boards like the UD3 R3 that had untold problems. They didn't seem to care about unhappy users. But then they release revision after revision of the boards so it seems like they do care about the AM3+ market...... I would take all that time, effort and engineering resources and make a rock solid board first time out. I surely think the bios is weak as far as being intuitive. The overclocking settings are pretty low brow compared to my ASUS boards. The fan speed settings are weak. That being said I think my UD3 R4 is a pretty good board and a good value.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Can't figure it out with Gigabyte. They had boards like the UD3 R3 that had untold problems. They didn't seem to care about unhappy users. But then they release revision after revision of the boards so it seems like they do care about the AM3+ market...... I would take all that time, effort and engineering resources and make a rock solid board first time out. I surely think the bios is weak as far as being intuitive. The overclocking settings are pretty low brow compared to my ASUS boards. The fan speed settings are weak. That being said I think my UD3 R4 is a pretty good board and a good value.


Yeah, for me it's mindbloggling. It's like as if the CEO is blind or something... It's like they are afraid of becoming no.1 and so they do their best to shoot their own feet and stay no.2. I 've been waiting for a stable BIOS for the UD3P since last summer. It's still in beta and i don't want to flash beta BIOS. But this is the only BIOS that supports the newer, more power efficient Visheras. So if i decide to grab one when they go EOL, i will be forced to run them on beta BIOS? And instead they release a rev. 2 ? ***!?

The BIOS isn't just weak for the settings. It's a mess in the way it's organized, the columns, the colours, you need to use numpad to change values (i was searching for 10 minutes hitting all keyboard buttons to find that). I 've seen UEFI from Asrock and Biostar and they are all better. The Biostar being the best of the 3 actually.

What is even bigger mystery, is that they do this even with models that sell a LOT! They must have sold a ton of UD3Ps. The GA-78LMT-USB3, arguably the best mATX quality wise, is on its... 6th revision!!! 6 revisions of the same motherboard for crying out loud!!! How come the other manufacturers update the BIOSes and limit themselves to max 2 revisions and only Gigabyte can't do the same???

Unbelievable... This kind of attitude, eventually scares off/ tires customers . I don't know how many times myself have recommended the UD3P. Every AMD forum member in the forum has done so at some point or another. I have bought 2 (or is it 3?) of them. Still, when i decided to buy yet another spare, i bought a Biostar TA970 Plus without knowing anything about it. Not for other reason, but because i wanted a break from this Gigabyte horrible UEFI and BIOS support (or lack of) policy, the dual boot glitch, etc. And believe me, i am someone who STRIVES for standardization. I always SEEK to have as same components active and in storage as possible, because i don't want to remember multiple settings or learning a component's quirks from scratch or searching for new drivers. I even have 10 spare mice and 5 spare keyboards, so that i don't have to get used to new mouse/keyboard when they break. But i couldn't stand the idea of another UD3P. It was like psychological oppression. I don't think they will EVER release a stable BIOS for the UD3P.

I mean, you go to the BIOS and go to LLC settings. And you press and see "Normal, Standard, other". For God's sake, how is someone supposed to know what's the difference betweem "Normal" and "standard"? I don't even remember which of the 2 i 've put on mine, because for me it's the same. So my brain refuses to store an information that regards completely irrational. You go to the BIOS. The colours are: black, dark blue, light blue. Somehow, the light blue, is the intuitive colour for them to select something. I don't know why, but i always get confused. Access the APM setting? It's almost hidden inside another menu. This is the only motherboard, that before saving and exiting the BIOS, i have to double and triple check everything, because i am afraid that i forgot something.

I don't know, is their BIOS programming department drunk all day or something?

EDIT: Look at this. This is the Asrock 970 Extreme3 R1.0. I don't remember when it was launched, but i bought the 1st one during Bulldozer's launch (it was September) and i think it shipped with BIOS 1.20.

http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/970%20Extreme3/?cat=CPU

BIOS 1.80 adds support for the newer Visheras. That's 6 new BIOS updates released since i first bought it. And Gigabyte for the UD3P, which is a MUCH more recent model, is in beta for 1 year now...


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Yeah, for me it's mindbloggling. It's like as if the CEO is blind or something... It's like they are afraid of becoming no.1 and so they do their best to shoot their own feet and stay no.2. I 've been waiting for a stable BIOS for the UD3P since last summer. It's still in beta and i don't want to flash beta BIOS. But this is the only BIOS that supports the newer, more power efficient Visheras. So if i decide to grab one when they go EOL, i will be forced to run them on beta BIOS? And instead they release a rev. 2 ? ***!?
> 
> The BIOS isn't just weak for the settings. It's a mess in the way it's organized, the columns, the colours, you need to use numpad to change values (i was searching for 10 minutes hitting all keyboard buttons to find that). I 've seen UEFI from Asrock and Biostar and they are all better. The Biostar being the best of the 3 actually.
> 
> What is even bigger mystery, is that they do this even with models that sell a LOT! They must have sold a ton of UD3Ps. The GA-78LMT-USB3, arguably the best mATX quality wise, is on its... 6th revision!!! 6 revisions of the same motherboard for crying out loud!!! How come the other manufacturers update the BIOSes and limit themselves to max 2 revisions and only Gigabyte can't do the same???
> 
> Unbelievable... This kind of attitude, eventually scares off/ tires customers . I don't know how many times myself have recommended the UD3P. Every AMD forum member in the forum has done so at some point or another. I have bought 2 (or is it 3?) of them. Still, when i decided to buy yet another spare, i bought a Biostar TA970 Plus without knowing anything about it. Not for other reason, but because i wanted a break from this Gigabyte horrible UEFI and BIOS support (or lack of) policy, the dual boot glitch, etc. And believe me, i am someone who STRIVES for standardization. I always SEEK to have as same components active and in storage as possible, because i don't want to remember multiple settings or learning a component's quirks from scratch or searching for new drivers. I even have 10 spare mice and 5 spare keyboards, so that i don't have to get used to new mouse/keyboard when they break. But i couldn't stand the idea of another UD3P. It was like psychological oppression. I don't think they will EVER release a stable BIOS for the UD3P.
> 
> I mean, you go to the BIOS and go to LLC settings. And you press and see "Normal, Standard, other". For God's sake, how is someone supposed to know what's the difference betweem "Normal" and "standard"? I don't even remember which of the 2 i 've put on mine, because for me it's the same. So my brain refuses to store an information that regards completely irrational. You go to the BIOS. The colours are: black, dark blue, light blue. Somehow, the light blue, is the intuitive colour for them to select something. I don't know why, but i always get confused. Access the APM setting? It's almost hidden inside another menu. This is the only motherboard, that before saving and exiting the BIOS, i have to double and triple check everything, because i am afraid that i forgot something.
> 
> I don't know, is their BIOS programming department drunk all day or something?
> 
> EDIT: Look at this. This is the Asrock 970 Extreme3 R1.0. I don't remember when it was launched, but i bought the 1st one during Bulldozer's launch (it was September) and i think it shipped with BIOS 1.20.
> 
> http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/970%20Extreme3/?cat=CPU
> 
> BIOS 1.80 adds support for the newer Visheras. That's 6 new BIOS updates released since i first bought it. And Gigabyte for the UD3P, which is a MUCH more recent model, is in beta for 1 year now...


This is an awesome post. The GA-78LMT-USB3 is on the sixth revision. That is crazy? What the heck are the differences between all the revisions? Maybe The Stilt would know. The LLC settings are nuts. I always thought "Normal" and "Standard" meant pretty much the same thing. Surprised they didn't throw "Average" in there for good measure lol!


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> This is an awesome post. The GA-78LMT-USB3 is on the sixth revision. That is crazy? What the heck are the differences between all the revisions? Maybe The Stilt would know.


They make small additions or change PCB colour of all i know (the last 2 revisions have black PCB and the latest has electrolytic audio capacitors).

Quote:


> The LLC settings are nuts. I always thought "Normal" and "Standard" meant pretty much the same thing. Surprised they didn't throw "Average" in there for good measure lol!










Good one! In Gigabyte it's like there is the following situation:
- A braindead BIOS division, where there is a one-eyed software engineer leading a team of blind.
- A brainstorming hardware division, where a bunch of enthusiast mad scientists are pushing out new motherboards for their fun:

- "Guys, guys! Scrap what we designed yesterday! Got new idea this morning while shaving! We make a new revision to add audio caps!"
- "Yay! Wow! Cool!"

The next morning.

- "Guys, guys! Listen to this! I had a dream last night! We got to make a new revision to add glass fabric PCB for anti-humidity feature"
- "Cool!"


----------



## reeven

ON my UD3 rev4 and UD7 rev1 with Samsung 850PRO SSD and/or 840EVO i am in windows 7 64 in about 1 minute and half or more.
With same setup but with 7200 hdd driver i am in windows in about 7 minutes.( yes, seven minutes).
If i exchange the board with MSI ud65 i get 25 seconds boot with ssd, and 40 seconds with hdd drive. So its Gigabyte fault.

If i enable AMD EMP memory profile in bios i get another double boot, like third boot or something.
I work years on retail sales, but my boss was an coder and manage an coder company.
When they detect an BUG, they write all about it in an online interface then test it to see if it appear.

We have urgent problems here with gigy boards:

amd emp memory profile enabled - double boot or worse.
usb 3.0 dissapear after restart( via, etron)
raising cpu multiplier on 8350 to 21( 200x21) no boot. But 21.5 , 22 multi work. They need to test this on all multipliers.
sometimes pc wont boot, it remain at bios info screen, with an blank screen( black). It done that on me on first day i mount this PC. Never seen this on any other computer. So i build an PC, make all settings all are ok but sometimes it wont boot, zero overclock, all auto or not, doesnt matter.
a lot of memory thats in their "ok" list wont boot on AUTO 1600mhz, need manual settings.
some usb plug have problems, maybe because 3xpower or something, example my dvbc stick tuners wont work in some plugs. Never seen this on any other PC.
Im too lazy to sell this crap and buy an Asus/MSI one, but Gigacrap is crap.


----------



## MTup

I would also add that when you oc with FSB, the HT and NB frequencies stay the same in the bios. Unless someone knows a trick I have to boot to see what I ended up with. I'm use to it now after learning to do the math on it.


----------



## Mega Man

i know the trick, basic math,

ok there are issues,

do the boards work, yes, do they keep up with the CHZ yes..... ( at least my ud7 does )

i dont have power delivery issues, nor heat issues

they just work, and i dump volts, most people dont even change the volts i do, HT 1.8v never struggled,

dont have a lot of voltage drop

i mean lets see you run your chip at 4.8ghz/4.7ghz 2700cpu/nb 3900 ht 2400 cl10 ram ( 8 gb sticks )

i can not get the ht nor the cpu/nb stable on either my sabertooth or my chz and neither can do native quadfire


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i know the trick, basic math,
> 
> ok there are issues,
> 
> do the boards work, yes, do they keep up with the CHZ yes..... ( at least my ud7 does )
> 
> i dont have power delivery issues, nor heat issues
> 
> they just work, and i dump volts, most people dont even change the volts i do, HT 1.8v never struggled,
> 
> dont have a lot of voltage drop
> 
> i mean lets see you run your chip at 4.8ghz/4.7ghz 2700cpu/nb 3900 ht 2400 cl10 ram ( 8 gb sticks )
> 
> i can not get the ht nor the cpu/nb stable on either my sabertooth or my chz and neither can do native quadfire


I hear you Mega. I am very happy with my board (UD5 R5). As a new overclocker I was frustrated for the longest time trying to find NB and ht multipliers. I have it figured out now after many showers. So far now I can get 4.9 easier with CPU multi and haven't been able to with FSB but I'm still working at it.

CPU/NB 2700 and ht 3900??? How in the world do you do that? Way to go. Now you have me thinking.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> ON my UD3 rev4 and UD7 rev1 with Samsung 850PRO SSD and/or 840EVO i am in windows 7 64 in about 1 minute and half or more.
> With same setup but with 7200 hdd driver i am in windows in about 7 minutes.( yes, seven minutes).
> If i exchange the board with MSI ud65 i get 25 seconds boot with ssd, and 40 seconds with hdd drive. So its Gigabyte fault.
> 
> If i enable AMD EMP memory profile in bios i get another double boot, like third boot or something.
> I work years on retail sales, but my boss was an coder and manage an coder company.
> When they detect an BUG, they write all about it in an online interface then test it to see if it appear.
> 
> We have urgent problems here with gigy boards:
> 
> amd emp memory profile enabled - double boot or worse.
> usb 3.0 dissapear after restart( via, etron)
> raising cpu multiplier on 8350 to 21( 200x21) no boot. But 21.5 , 22 multi work. They need to test this on all multipliers.
> sometimes pc wont boot, it remain at bios info screen, with an blank screen( black). It done that on me on first day i mount this PC. Never seen this on any other computer. So i build an PC, make all settings all are ok but sometimes it wont boot, zero overclock, all auto or not, doesnt matter.
> a lot of memory thats in their "ok" list wont boot on AUTO 1600mhz, need manual settings.
> some usb plug have problems, maybe because 3xpower or something, example my dvbc stick tuners wont work in some plugs. Never seen this on any other PC.
> Im too lazy to sell this crap and buy an Asus/MSI one, but Gigacrap is crap.


hmm my ud3 rev4 board has no issues..
it does have the "double boot" thing because i have turbo off..
i am not bothered by this, because if i leave turbo on, i never get the full speed of my cpu. with turbo on no matter what i set the multi at, it only goes 4.1ghz

my cpu is OC to 4.6 @ 23x200 with 1.4v and medium llc.. im also using 1866 ram.

i am using the F2 bios, the new F3 one has a lot of issues. i dont even know how it went out of beta..


----------



## SonicDust187

I have the Rev 1 UD5 board and I connected 2 Noctua NF-F12 fans via the swiftech 8 way switch. However, the fans always fun at full speed and are not slowing down after boot. What can be the issue?


----------



## QB the Slayer

Wow... I was surprised to see so many UD7 rev 1.0 users still active on this last page! I'm still rocking mine with an 8350. And yes, the vdroop is horrible with nothing to do about it except crank the v-core and keep it cool at idle. I do 1.5 v and it drops all the way down to 1.31 under load. Nothing my H80i and HAF932 can't handle of course, but I feel the pain of users with inadequate cooling

QB


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QB the Slayer*
> 
> Wow... I was surprised to see so many UD7 rev 1.0 users still active on this last page! I'm still rocking mine with an 8350. And yes, the vdroop is horrible with nothing to do about it except crank the v-core and keep it cool at idle. I do 1.5 v and it drops all the way down to 1.31 under load. Nothing my H80i and HAF932 can't handle of course, but I feel the pain of users with inadequate cooling
> 
> QB


I'm afraid I folded, the vdroop was too much. Went to an ASUS board. In saying that I'm gonna resurrect the UD7 as a Linux PC


----------



## hyperlogos

only getting 4.4 GHz out of my 8350 with this board, Hyper 212 Evo. So far. Will add another fan.

http://valid.x86.fr/7u2jv0

used IBT AVX for load testing, passed 10xnormal OK


----------



## Mega Man

That's about right for That combo


----------



## SavageBrat

Hi folks, I finally got around to picking up an 8370 for my UD7 rev3 mb, but I have a few questions, I'm currently on the FC bios and everything is working fine do I need to flash the beta bios FDe? Plus I'm having a brain lock at the moment I have all the cool and quiet stuff turned off but what about HPC and APM on or off ? Thanks


----------



## MTup

HPC and APM on with Gigabyte mb. It works for my 8350.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Hi folks, I finally got around to picking up an 8370 for my UD7 rev3 mb, but I have a few questions, I'm currently on the FC bios and everything is working fine do I need to flash the beta bios FDe? Plus I'm having a brain lock at the moment I have all the cool and quiet stuff turned off but what about HPC and APM on or off ? Thanks


Hey Brat, let us know how you come out overclocking your 8370. I'm still trying to run 5.0GHz on my UD5 R5. I can boot and surf but cannot pass IBT AVX.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> HPC and APM on with Gigabyte mb. It works for my 8350.


i can not keep apm on ( just a fyi )

i think it is due to the rev 3 lacking a socket sensor and it causes BSOD

but i do keep all other power saving on


----------



## SavageBrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Hey Brat, let us know how you come out overclocking your 8370. I'm still trying to run 5.0GHz on my UD5 R5. I can boot and surf but cannot pass IBT AVX.


I've gotten it up to 4.8 so far though the temp did pop up to 63c for a second but running IBT with full load the temps stays right at 60c but it's currently on the warm side here weather wise.


haven't done anything but raised the multiplier and played with the vcore. I"ve kept the HPC on but disable the APM as I don't fully understand it's purpose..

Here's all the cool and quiet things ,did I miss anything ? I left the Core Performance Boost on as I get a double boot when I disable it.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can not keep apm on ( just a fyi )
> 
> i think it is due to the rev 3 lacking a socket sensor and it causes BSOD
> 
> but i do keep all other power saving on


I always disabled it until someone told me to enable for Gigabyte boards and I tried that. It might have been a fluke but when I stressed, my temps were lower by around 3ºC.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> I've gotten it up to 4.8 so far though the temp did pop up to 63c for a second but running IBT with full load the temps stays right at 60c but it's currently on the warm side here weather wise.
> 
> 
> haven't done anything but raised the multiplier and played with the vcore. I"ve kept the HPC on but disable the APM as I don't fully understand it's purpose..
> 
> Here's all the cool and quiet things ,did I miss anything ? I left the Core Performance Boost on as I get a double boot when I disable it.


I don't get it. I don't get the double boot with CNQ disabled or enabled. To be honest I think when I disabled the HPC I got a double boot. This is the same with my UD3P. That is everything I do in bios except APM and CNQ.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> I don't get it. I don't get the double boot with CNQ disabled or enabled. To be honest I think when I disabled the HPC I got a double boot. This is the same with my UD3P. That is everything I do in bios except APM and CNQ.


In the UD3P the dual boot goes away with enabling turbo in BIOS. Even if you overclock and don't use turbo and you have APM off, so turbo is inactive, if you keep turbo ON, the double boot goes away.


----------



## Shadow Death

Is it just me or do these gigabyte boards seem to have issues with their onboard lan?

Mine but the dust twice. The first time it registered as a 10/100 nic until I shut off the power to the psu then it worked properly again. This ast time it wasn't so lucky. A power outage fried it. Now I don't get lights or anything.

Sucks too because it was a great budget OC board.

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadow Death*
> 
> Is it just me or do these gigabyte boards seem to have issues with their onboard lan?
> 
> Mine but the dust twice. The first time it registered as a 10/100 nic until I shut off the power to the psu then it worked properly again. This ast time it wasn't so lucky. A power outage fried it. Now I don't get lights or anything.
> 
> Sucks too because it was a great budget OC board.
> 
> Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk


The cable quality is very important to get giga speeds even on short runs. The other end detection is very important too, if it sees something that does not like it will lower the speed. Sorry to hear that the power failure fried your on board nic. If the power failure was your electric company's responsibility, should you ask for compensation for your fried electronics?


----------



## Dohko702

Please Somebody can help me ??

I recently bought the FX-8320 and Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R5 nice looking motherboard by the way, my system random black screen







i can't do nothing i have to unplug the power cable or power off the psu









The bios is F1 which is only one for now...

My rig: FX-8320 Stock clocks, corsair H60 push/pull, XFX 290X DD, 16GB Corsair Ram 1600MHz, SSD Silicon power 256GB, 3TB Seagate, Corsair AX1200 PSU, Case Fractal design Arc XL, also i tried with another components so i think go to waranty









If someone can help I will be grateful


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dohko702*
> 
> Please Somebody can help me ??
> 
> I recently bought the FX-8320 and Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R5 nice looking motherboard by the way, my system random black screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can't do nothing i have to unplug the power cable or power off the psu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bios is F1 which is only one for now...
> 
> My rig: FX-8320 Stock clocks, corsair H60 push/pull, XFX 290X DD, 16GB Corsair Ram 1600MHz, SSD Silicon power 256GB, 3TB Seagate, Corsair AX1200 PSU, Case Fractal design Arc XL, also i tried with another components so i think go to waranty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If someone can help I will be grateful


You should disable the CPU C6 State energy saving on the BIOS. I disabled on my Asus CHFZ and Gigabyte UD7. after that no a single freeze while watching Utube or other internet videos. You should try uninstalling the video driver and re installing.
If your PC freezes with a black screen every time you run a 3d App it can be the black screen problem and you should RMA the GPU.


----------



## XCalinX

Hey guys, I have a throttling problem on my UD5 (read here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1566558/8350-throttling-to-3-4-at-stock-speeds-3-motherboards-tested#post_24218903) and there's no option in the bios to disable APM. What should I do? Thanks


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCalinX*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a throttling problem on my UD5 (read here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1566558/8350-throttling-to-3-4-at-stock-speeds-3-motherboards-tested#post_24218903) and there's no option in the bios to disable APM. What should I do? Thanks


First off, post some BIOS screens.


----------



## ~kRon1k~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCalinX*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a throttling problem on my UD5 (read here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1566558/8350-throttling-to-3-4-at-stock-speeds-3-motherboards-tested#post_24218903) and there's no option in the bios to disable APM. What should I do? Thanks


I believe only the beta bios versions have the APM option available in the BIOS. I'm using version FCh


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> First off, post some BIOS screens.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XCalinX*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a throttling problem on my UD5 (read here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1566558/8350-throttling-to-3-4-at-stock-speeds-3-motherboards-tested#post_24218903) and there's no option in the bios to disable APM. What should I do? Thanks


Enable APM on Gigabyte boards.


----------



## Dohko702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> You should disable the CPU C6 State energy saving on the BIOS. I disabled on my Asus CHFZ and Gigabyte UD7. after that no a single freeze while watching Utube or other internet videos. You should try uninstalling the video driver and re installing.
> If your PC freezes with a black screen every time you run a 3d App it can be the black screen problem and you should RMA the GPU.


Thx for your reply i found the issue, is the PCI, Xpress_1 when i put the video card en second pci xpress slot works fine, but i will go for RMA maybe near future i put 2 R9 290x jejeje.


----------



## raizing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reeven*
> 
> We have urgent problems here with gigy boards:
> 
> usb 3.0 dissapear after restart( via, etron)


I think this issue was mostly seen my ppl utilizing 3.0 ports on the front of their cases; i had the same problem with my ud3 rev 4 (via vl805) & fractal case.
the solution (interestingly) was to install the drivers with a 2.0 stick plugged in, which was the recommended solution on the rev 1 (Etron EJ168).
worth noting that when i installed the latest drivers (4.90A) the usb 3 hub would randomly start failing at bootup again. went back to drivers 4.20B and it
worked perfectly again.

F3 fixed the doublebooting for me, regardless of turbo setting. In F2, it was as described: turbo disabled caused doubleboot.


----------



## Dagamus NM

Hoping somebody can point me in the right direction.

I have a rev3.0 UD7 990FXA and am having quite the frustrating time with it. I setup a six SSD raid 0 for boot and can install windows. When windows starts for the first time everything seems mostly ok. I install all of the drivers on the disk minus norton and the google toolbar for IE. Then it asks if I want to install the utilities and that is where it seems to bug out. Slow responses until I kill the processes. Then I shut down and try to boot back up but get into this endless loop of system recovery.

If I choose the boot override to the drive in the bios I get the windows is loading files grey screen and a very brief windows splash screen and then back into recovery options.

What the heck? Are the drivers with the disk bad? Is there some trick to the SSD's in raid 0 I am missing here?

The SSD's are Intel 730 series 480GB.

Edit: so I tried deleting the raid volume and installing win7 again. Failed again. In frustration I made a bootable USB win10 install disk and tried that. I deleted the raid0 volume again, recreated it. Set the boot path to the usb and win10 asks for the raid driver immediately. I tried both the win8 and win7 raid drivers on the disk that came with the motherboard and neither worked. I went to the Gigabyte site and downloaded the newest raid drivers from the website and put them onto the thumb drive. Selected the win7 driver from there and it worked. The rest of the win10 install went fine and I am up and running with 6 way raid 0 with 2.8TB of useable space.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Enable APM on Gigabyte boards.


I have it disabled on mine ... should I enable it ?
I also have LLC on High
I have been experienciing shot downs every once in a while playing GTA5 and BF4.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> I have it disabled on mine ... should I enable it ?
> I also have LLC on High
> I have been experienciing shot downs every once in a while playing GTA5 and BF4.


I don't know about games but when stressing I ended up with better results when someone here suggested this to me. Give it a shot. You can always go back.


----------



## SeriousTom

I was wondering if in the BIOS for Hardware Thermal Control I have it enabled.
Should it be so ?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Hoping somebody can point me in the right direction.
> 
> I have a rev3.0 UD7 990FXA and am having quite the frustrating time with it. I setup a six SSD raid 0 for boot and can install windows. When windows starts for the first time everything seems mostly ok. I install all of the drivers on the disk minus norton and the google toolbar for IE. Then it asks if I want to install the utilities and that is where it seems to bug out. Slow responses until I kill the processes. Then I shut down and try to boot back up but get into this endless loop of system recovery.
> 
> If I choose the boot override to the drive in the bios I get the windows is loading files grey screen and a very brief windows splash screen and then back into recovery options.
> 
> What the heck? Are the drivers with the disk bad? Is there some trick to the SSD's in raid 0 I am missing here?
> 
> The SSD's are Intel 730 series 480GB.
> 
> Edit: so I tried deleting the raid volume and installing win7 again. Failed again. In frustration I made a bootable USB win10 install disk and tried that. I deleted the raid0 volume again, recreated it. Set the boot path to the usb and win10 asks for the raid driver immediately. I tried both the win8 and win7 raid drivers on the disk that came with the motherboard and neither worked. I went to the Gigabyte site and downloaded the newest raid drivers from the website and put them onto the thumb drive. Selected the win7 driver from there and it worked. The rest of the win10 install went fine and I am up and running with 6 way raid 0 with 2.8TB of useable space.


You won't like my answer. But my answer is don't use razor without a good dedicated controller

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Enable APM on Gigabyte boards.
> 
> 
> 
> I have it disabled on mine ... should I enable it ?
> I also have LLC on High
> I have been experienciing shot downs every once in a while playing GTA5 and BF4.
Click to expand...

No. Just because he said to does not mean you should. On some boards (iirc) you need to. But not all. I am on mobile and i can't see which board AND which Rev do you have
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> HPC and APM on with Gigabyte mb. It works for my 8350.
> 
> 
> 
> i can not keep apm on ( just a fyi )
> 
> i think it is due to the rev 3 lacking a socket sensor and it causes BSOD
> 
> but i do keep all other power saving on
Click to expand...


----------



## MTup

I sure apologize for saying APM enable on gigas. It was recommended to me and it worked on both of mine. Could it be that it works on just the uefi bios?


----------



## SavageBrat

this APM thing makes me wonder as I've read about but not sure what it does exactly but on my UD7 I keep it off but I keep on the HPC .. should it be on?


----------



## MTup

All I can say with my UD5 R5 and UD3P I use it enabled with no problems. I swear my temps went down a tad or maybe it was just a fluke. I have always had HPC enabled.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> I sure apologize for saying APM enable on gigas. It was recommended to me and it worked on both of mine. Could it be that it works on just the uefi bios?


the ud3 on certain revs and with certain bios it needs to be on but iirc that makes it to run at oc settings and not at stock.

but there is no need to apologize i am just helping with the information i have , when we pool our knowledge we are far stronger and smarter then separate
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> this APM thing makes me wonder as I've read about but not sure what it does exactly but on my UD7 I keep it off but I keep on the HPC .. should it be on?


apm is not on a per mobo design it is form amd, -

1 it makes the cpu throttle @ 42c socket ( IIRC been a while for me ) - if i am wrong then it is 42c core to keep within TDP design- this effect can be shut off via HPC
2 one or two mobos ( again i dont have them ) it can throttle via amp draw to again keep in tdp- again iirc this is shut off via hpc
3 unit WILL throttle at 72c socket temp- this can not be shut off via HPC

- hpc on = will shut off these effects

i have no socket tmep sensor that i have seen - ( ud7 rev 3 ) so it causes BSOD


----------



## SavageBrat

So is it better to be left on? I was wondering because say if I reset my mb to it's optimized settings it is enable and HPC is off but I turn off the APM when I'm testing overclocks.


----------



## Mega Man

again personal pref.

fyi "optimized settings" = defaults- not optimized at all


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You won't like my answer. But my answer is don't use raid without a good dedicated controller


Well you are correct in my not liking the answer. I went with the UD7 because it could run 4-way xfire/sli. In this configuration I have no space for a raid controller. I only went with this raid setup because I could, it is not practical in any way. After four drives it doesn't scale out from what I have read, but I had the drives. Double ordered and didn't feel like returning them.

That said, if I were to get a raid card which would you recommend?

Is it something specific to the chipset that you suggest the raid controller? Raid is just fine on both of my x79s with two drives and my first x99 to come online is doing great with 4 drives.

It seems a bit much for the 990FX/9590 to run six of these.


----------



## Mega Man

imo you shouldnt run raid without a raid card, x79, x99, x......

imo it is not worth it,

this is speaking from how the raid uses your ram to how a raid card does this

and from my opinion.

as to raid- idk i refuse to use it in home builds

only "raid" i do is ZFS and it isnt really raid it is RaidZ3- this is on my nas ( AKA a Server ) and it is to avoid bitrot and HD failures


----------



## Dagamus NM

It could be something I do for my nas. Not really much choice for the others. Once content is created it is dumped to spinning disk so it still ends up being meh. Perhaps experience will change my mind on this.


----------



## Truedeal

I just ordered a *UD3*, what do you guys recommend while its in transit?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> I just ordered a *UD3*, what do you guys recommend while its in transit?


Grab an 8370E of a known batch. 1433, 1432, 1429, 1431 to go along with the board.

And don't hope for a very good OC. If you can be lucky with the chip, 4.8 at 1.4Vcore, the board may suffice.


----------



## SeriousTom

I having a issue with CPU/NB VID voltage.
I have 4 sticks of Crucial DDR3 1866 but it will only boot at 1600.
For the past year or so I have run my cpu multiplier at 18.5 and had the FSB at 238, the HyperTransport at x11 and the Northbridge at x9.
This all gave me ;
CPU = 4403 MHz
Memory = 1904
Hypertransport = 2618
Northbridge = 2142
It has run this way for about a year but BF4 and GTA5 games would crash sometimes out of the blue with no errors and the PC would just restart.
I figured it could be my power supply but I thought I would load Optimizied Defaults and try it out but not OC the FSB and try and get the memory running at 1866
No crashes yet running optimized but looking at Aida 64 and HWinfo my ram voltage was showing 1.472v so I have raised that to 1.504v and I was reading in the Aida memory extreme profile for 1866 it says memory controller : 1.3v
Long story, so I set the CPU/NB VID to +0.125 in the BIOS and it shows 1.3v to the right of the input but when I load Windows AIDA64 and HWiNFO64 both show CPU/NB VID still at 1.175v
What am I doing wrong there, am I adjust the wrong setting ?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> I having a issue with CPU/NB VID voltage.
> I have 4 sticks of Crucial DDR3 1866 but it will only boot at 1600.
> For the past year or so I have run my cpu multiplier at 18.5 and had the FSB at 238, the HyperTransport at x11 and the Northbridge at x9.
> This all gave me ;
> CPU = 4403 MHz
> Memory = 1904
> Hypertransport = 2618
> Northbridge = 2142
> It has run this way for about a year but BF4 and GTA5 games would crash sometimes out of the blue with no errors and the PC would just restart.
> I figured it could be my power supply but I thought I would load Optimizied Defaults and try it out but not OC the FSB and try and get the memory running at 1866
> No crashes yet running optimized but looking at Aida 64 and HWinfo my ram voltage was showing 1.472v so I have raised that to 1.504v and I was reading in the Aida memory extreme profile for 1866 it says memory controller : 1.3v
> Long story, so I set the CPU/NB VID to +0.125 in the BIOS and it shows 1.3v to the right of the input but when I load Windows AIDA64 and HWiNFO64 both show CPU/NB VID still at 1.175v
> What am I doing wrong there, am I adjust the wrong setting ?


CPU-NB Voltage is always hidden. Only Aida can show it on some boards.

On the Aida stability test - preferences - voltages - add a monitor for CPU-NB Voltage if it's there. Not NB VID or anything with a VID.


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> CPU-NB Voltage is always hidden. Only Aida can show it on some boards.
> 
> On the Aida stability test - preferences - voltages - add a monitor for CPU-NB Voltage if it's there. Not NB VID or anything with a VID.


Thanks, I don't seem to have that but that's Okay, since I set the CPU/NB at 1.3v in the BIOS I'll just assume that what it is regardless of what the software is telling me.
Back to my tinkering


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Thanks, I don't seem to have that but that's Okay, since I set the CPU/NB at 1.3v in the BIOS I'll just assume that what it is regardless of what the software is telling me.
> Back to my tinkering


Where you at ATM?

Cpu-nb can be a little trick if set to a high value. So as long as you are stable, ent worry about that. Just keep it where it's stable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> I having a issue with CPU/NB VID voltage.
> I have 4 sticks of Crucial DDR3 1866 but it will only boot at 1600.
> For the past year or so I have run my cpu multiplier at 18.5 and had the FSB at 238, the HyperTransport at x11 and the Northbridge at x9.
> This all gave me ;
> CPU = 4403 MHz
> Memory = 1904
> Hypertransport = 2618
> Northbridge = 2142
> It has run this way for about a year but BF4 and GTA5 games would crash sometimes out of the blue with no errors and the PC would just restart.
> I figured it could be my power supply but I thought I would load Optimizied Defaults and try it out but not OC the FSB and try and get the memory running at 1866
> No crashes yet running optimized but looking at Aida 64 and HWinfo my ram voltage was showing 1.472v so I have raised that to 1.504v and I was reading in the Aida memory extreme profile for 1866 it says memory controller : 1.3v
> Long story, so I set the CPU/NB VID to +0.125 in the BIOS and it shows 1.3v to the right of the input but when I load Windows AIDA64 and HWiNFO64 both show CPU/NB VID still at 1.175v
> What am I doing wrong there, am I adjust the wrong setting ?


vid does not change !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Thanks, I don't seem to have that but that's Okay, since I set the CPU/NB at 1.3v in the BIOS I'll just assume that what it is regardless of what the software is telling me.
> Back to my tinkering
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where you at ATM?
> 
> Cpu-nb can be a little trick if set to a high value. So as long as you are stable, ent worry about that. Just keep it where it's stable.
Click to expand...

correct


----------



## SeriousTom

1T/2T Command Timing = 2T
CAS# latency = 9
RAS to CAS R/W Delay = 9
Row Precharge Time = 9
Minimum RAS Active Time = 27
TwTr Command Delay = 7
Trfc0 for DIMM1, DIMM3 =150
Trfc2 for DIMM2, DIMM4 = 150
Write Recovery Time =14
Precharge Time = 5
Row Cycle Time =47
RAS to RAS Delay = 6
I got these numbers from Aida64
Extreme Memory Profile v1.3
Profile Name Enthusiast (Certified)
Memory Speed DDR3-1866 (933 MHz)
Voltage 1.50 V (Memory Controller: 1.30 V)
Refresh Period (tREF) 7.8 us
@ 933 MHz 10-9-9-27 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 47-150-2-6-14-7-7-28-9 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW-WCL)
So I tryed DRAM E.O.C.P. @ 1866 and it set the Dram voltage at 1.66v and I manualually put in the timing and raised the CPU/NB to 1.3v saved and rebooted but it sent me back as a failure.
Tried it again with DRAM E.O.C.P Disabled and Memory Multiplier at X9.33 with all the other settings and voltages ... same result.
And that's the reason I have been running memory at X8 and FSB at 238 for the last year.


----------



## mus1mus

Hmm.

Take it easy man. From those texts, it's a bit hard to get a gasp of what you are up to.

Make your intentions known clearly so people can help you easily.

But from the looks of it, you are trying to run your kit to 1866 9-9-9-CR1.

I dont know how your board displays your RAM info and other clocks but you may be looking at the values intended for the multiplier. 1866 is 9.33 x 200 (fab at default)

Once you move the FSB, YOU SHOULD NOW LOOK FOR THE MULTI THAT CAN GIVE YOU YOUR TARGET RAM speed. 1866 happens at 233 X 8 (multi for 1600)

DOCP or manual will not change those things.


----------



## SeriousTom

When you asked about
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Where you at ATM?


I thought you meant the memory timimings.
What is ATM ?
I just am trying to run at 1866 on my 1866 memory without OC'ing the FSB
Everything is now at Optimized Defaults except the memory which is now @ the 8x multiplier for DDR3 1600 (the default was 1300 or something)
The command rate is at 2
I have tried all the different timings the BIOS for speed and Auto.
It's no big deal, just thought I would give it another go and see if I'm doing something wrong.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> When you asked about
> I thought you meant the memory timimings.
> *What is ATM* ?
> I just am trying to run at 1866 on my 1866 memory without OC'ing the FSB
> Everything is now at Optimized Defaults except the memory which is now @ the 8x multiplier for DDR3 1600 (the default was 1300 or something)
> The command rate is at 2
> I have tried all the different timings the BIOS for speed and Auto.
> It's no big deal, just thought I would give it another go and see if I'm doing something wrong.


Ohh. Was asking you where you at at the moment with your OC.

DOCP doesn't work? IIRC, once selecting DOCP, you need to select the right Profile on RAM settings too. Or you can shoot some screenshots of the intended settings.

Timings will be applied as well as the Voltages. 1866 shouldn't be an issue with most chips.


----------



## SeriousTom

Sounds like a job for tommorow, had to look up IIRC
I'm an old geezer


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Sounds like a job for tommorow, had to look up IIRC
> I'm an old geezer


Welcome to internet slangs.








Had to make some shortcuts while on mobile.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Hoping somebody can point me in the right direction.
> 
> I have a rev3.0 UD7 990FXA and am having quite the frustrating time with it. I setup a six SSD raid 0 for boot and can install windows. When windows starts for the first time everything seems mostly ok. I install all of the drivers on the disk minus norton and the google toolbar for IE. Then it asks if I want to install the utilities and that is where it seems to bug out. Slow responses until I kill the processes. Then I shut down and try to boot back up but get into this endless loop of system recovery.
> 
> If I choose the boot override to the drive in the bios I get the windows is loading files grey screen and a very brief windows splash screen and then back into recovery options.
> 
> What the heck? Are the drivers with the disk bad? Is there some trick to the SSD's in raid 0 I am missing here?
> 
> The SSD's are Intel 730 series 480GB.
> 
> Edit: so I tried deleting the raid volume and installing win7 again. Failed again. In frustration I made a bootable USB win10 install disk and tried that. I deleted the raid0 volume again, recreated it. Set the boot path to the usb and win10 asks for the raid driver immediately. I tried both the win8 and win7 raid drivers on the disk that came with the motherboard and neither worked. I went to the Gigabyte site and downloaded the newest raid drivers from the website and put them onto the thumb drive. Selected the win7 driver from there and it worked. The rest of the win10 install went fine and I am up and running with 6 way raid 0 with 2.8TB of useable space.


990FX is super peaky when raid and SSD. Raid with spinning disk is no problem at all, works great. I had a Asus CHVFZ and tried to raid 0 two Samsung 830 128GB, i was able to install windows, but everything was corrupted in the background and I got BSOD everytime I tried to move a lot of data even between spinning disk. After using a spinning disk for Windows, the event viewer showed that the Sata bus was resetting and losing the disks. Taking out the samsungs and all perfect when BIOS Raid was enabled. When Raid was not enabled the Samsungs ssd worked great. You can search for horror stories with Raid 990FX and samsungs ssd. I even bought a new mobo to test if it was the mobo. Now I have a 990FX UD7 and if using BIOS Raid it would not detect a Crucial MX100 512GB, no problem detecting or using two Corsair Neutron GTX 240GB. Just trying to see if it worked. So finally I decided to not use BIOS raid and install windows on the Crucial and do a stripped volume in windows with the two Corsairs. I run games and VMs on the Corsairs. Not a single problem and super stable. Maybe you could install OS on one drive and do a stripped volume with the rest of the disk if you want to have crazy speeds. As usual it is risky to use Raid0 or stripped volume, do not use for unrecoverable things, have a backup with MD5/SHA1 check sum to check if its corrupted on the road or better with parchive. But if you are paranoid enough to worry about bit rot and galactic rays that alters your data you should be using ECC RAM on all your data path (PC-NAS-Backup system).


----------



## Mega Man

try dram v = 1.675

cpu/nb 1.25

nb 1.2

and let us know


----------



## SeriousTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> try dram v = 1.675
> 
> cpu/nb 1.25
> 
> nb 1.2
> 
> and let us know


Set the Memory multiplier to x9.33 for 1866
Set Memory Timings to Auto
set dram voltage from 1.5 to 1.675 volts
set cpu/nb from 1.175 to 1.25
set nb from 1.1 to max of 1.2
Rebooted and got Boot Failure from OC
Everything else was on Optimized Defaults.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Set the Memory multiplier to x9.33 for 1866
> Set Memory Timings to Auto
> set dram voltage from 1.5 to 1.675 volts
> set cpu/nb from 1.175 to 1.25
> set nb from 1.1 to max of 1.2
> Rebooted and got Boot Failure from OC
> Everything else was on Optimized Defaults.


Try manually adding the Primary timings based on your kit's specs.

You should also enable XMP or DOCP. Look for an option to set Profile 1 or Profile 0.

Your BIOS may be different but if I remember right, XMP should be on the main tweaking page. And profile selection should be on the RAM settings page.

If that still fails,

Set FSB to 233, set RAM multi to 8 or 1600 (233 * 8 = 1866), keep CPU NB to within 2600 (might need you to do the math), CPU Core speed to within your previous clocks, manually set the Primary timings.

Easier way is to insert images into this thread so we can have a look. Grab a USB stick formatted as FAT32, plug that in, go to the BIOS, press F12 on the pages demned for Overclocking.


----------



## Mega Man

correct,

also i made an assumption htat your kit was 1.65v kit if it is only a 1.5v kit then you dont need 1.675, try 1.55v


----------



## Hits9Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeriousTom*
> 
> Set the Memory multiplier to x9.33 for 1866
> Set Memory Timings to Auto
> set dram voltage from 1.5 to 1.675 volts
> set cpu/nb from 1.175 to 1.25
> set nb from 1.1 to max of 1.2
> Rebooted and got Boot Failure from OC
> Everything else was on Optimized Defaults.


Only way my UD7 gets to 1866 is to set the ram to 1600 and oc the cpu so the ram hits around the 1866 mark, its always an OC failure if I set the ram to 1866


----------



## SeriousTom

Had to quit for awhile ... the wife insisted I mow the lawn.
I tried EOCP for 1866, tried Profile1, the rest are just lower or higher than 1866
tried the multiplier x9.33
added voltage to ram, nb, cpu/nb
Nothing goes. OC failure.
I decided to run the stupid memory at 1600 with 8-8-8-24 timings instead of 9-9-9-27
My previous wat was to OC the FSB but I was getting some restarts on the computer during games.
Running with Optimized Defaults and the ram at 1600 no restarts.
Guess I just play with the cpu multiplier for a bit.
Disabling Turbo core, what can I safely get to without adding more voltage ?
I have a nzxt kraken X60 for cooling, a nice heatpipe cooler on the mosfets and mx4 on the Northbridge with a small fan directly attached to it


----------



## Truedeal

Got my UD3 two days ago, Looks like I'm not going to be able to squeeze more than 4.7 GHz out of my fx 6300. I want 5 ghz


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> 990FX is super peaky when raid and SSD. But if you are paranoid enough to worry about bit rot and galactic rays that alters your data you should be using ECC RAM on all your data path (PC-NAS-Backup system).


It does seem to be picky, but a clean install of Windows 10 fixed the issue of it not working. If there is any other option where it could try and boot from it will and then of course complain about there being no OS. I have a 1TB spinning disk that I have just left disconnected and will be removing soon. I got my NAS working today. ZFS with 10.6TB usable storage. Three 6TB WD Reds with 32GB system memory. Still on freenas 9.2.1.7, went to update to 9.3 but needed two 8GB thumb drives to do that and mine are all secured which won't work.

I am not too worried cosmic rays, there is an interventional radiology suite in the next room and it won't have any effect. Yes, I know you were joking around but it is my reality.


----------



## novac

Hi
I have 990-fxa-ud3 rev. 4.0
The problem is my usb powered x1 risers doesn't work.
I'm struggling 3th day with this problem finally decided write here.

PCI-E x16 to x1 riser doesn't work
PCI-E x4 to x1 riser doesn't work

But when I use x16 riser to x16 PCI-E or x4 riser to x4PCI-E evrything works

What can be a reason ? (Bios settings ?)


----------



## Deepsouth1987

UD3 still going strong.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *novac*
> 
> Hi
> I have 990-fxa-ud3 rev. 4.0
> The problem is my usb powered x1 risers doesn't work.
> I'm struggling 3th day with this problem finally decided write here.
> 
> PCI-E x16 to x1 riser doesn't work
> PCI-E x4 to x1 riser doesn't work
> 
> But when I use x16 riser to x16 PCI-E or x4 riser to x4PCI-E evrything works
> 
> What can be a reason ? (Bios settings ?)


you probably bought cheap risers and it probably isnt a mobo problem


----------



## gringott

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Many people posted problems with throttling with earlier UD5's. The UD5 R5 is too new and not many forum members have posted anything about them. UD7? Probably a fine board for the twelve people on this earth who actually own one.


Nice to know I'm one of 12 unique people on Earth.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gringott*
> 
> Nice to know I'm one of 12 unique people on Earth.


Here's one UD5 R5 that's rocking w/H100I for cooling. I hope to put my custom cooling in during Labor Day.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



[/
SPOILER]


----------



## MTup

I will say that my VRM's and NB run at least 10ºC cooler than my UD3P and it ran at 4.7GHz easily with the same AIO cooling. I wasn't experienced enough to go higher with that board but I'm sure it would have done well.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *gringott*
> 
> Nice to know I'm one of 12 unique people on Earth.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's one UD5 R5 that's rocking w/H100I for cooling. I hope to put my custom cooling in during Labor Day.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/
> SPOILER]
Click to expand...

not only that but i have 2 both with quadfire !~


----------



## Tacoboy

I just bought today a 990FXA UD3 (Version 4.1) motherboard, because my second MSI 970 Gaming motherboard had just failed and it was only used for 34 days (4 days beyond the 30 days return window), as it had replaced my first MSI 970 Gaming motherboard.

Anyway, I'm finding the gigabyte BIOS a little on the basic side or maybe my old MSI 970 had a more "graphic or themed" BIOS.
So part of me is thinking of returning my 990FXA UD3 and getting an Asus M5A99FX Pro 2.0, for a few dollars more.
Just wondering if any has used both the 990FXA motherboards and say which they liked better and why?


----------



## Mega Man

once you get over the bios it isnt bad, but i prefer the asus ones, i own 2x990fxa-ud7 a saberkitty and 2xCVFz


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tacoboy*
> 
> I just bought today a 990FXA UD3 (Version 4.1) motherboard, because my second MSI 970 Gaming motherboard had just failed and it was only used for 34 days (4 days beyond the 30 days return window), as it had replaced my first MSI 970 Gaming motherboard.
> 
> Anyway, I'm finding the gigabyte BIOS a little on the basic side or maybe my old MSI 970 had a more "graphic or themed" BIOS.
> So part of me is thinking of returning my 990FXA UD3 and getting an Asus M5A99FX Pro 2.0, for a few dollars more.
> Just wondering if any has used both the 990FXA motherboards and say which they liked better and why?


Pro R2.0 is better than new revision UD3.

Asus' Bios is also more streamlined.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Here's one UD5 R5 that's rocking w/H100I for cooling. I hope to put my custom cooling in during Labor Day.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [/[URL=http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2559866/width/350/height/700%5B/IMG]http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2559866/width/350/height/700[/IMG[/URL] SPOILER][/SPOILER]
> [/QUOTE]
> 
> Whats with the low voltage readings? If i were you i would use HWINFO64 because its more acurate in reading the vishera chips.


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Whats with the low voltage readings? If i were you i would use HWINFO64 because its more acurate in reading the vishera chips.


This is the lowest I can go with the voltage and pass. This actually runs mostly 1.572V during IBT. I have lessened voltage and upped the LLC and upped the voltage and lessened the LLC to try to get it to stay at 1.572 under load. I'll have to get another version or copy of HWINFO64 because when I run it my package temps have jumped to a high of 160ºC to a low of -4ºC.


----------



## Mugen87

Hi everyone, I am looking at the UD3 for my platform upgrade in the near future. I have been using Windows 10 for a few weeks and I'm not impressed. I would go back to 7, but the few things I like in 10 is available in Linux. So I will be making my main OS Linux soon. How is this board with Debian Linux 64 driver wise. (I only run stable no testing)?

Does the board come with a gui uefi bios, or a classic bios? I know there was a new revision.

If I wanted to use both PCIe x1 lanes will my gpu card run at full in the second PCIe x16? If that makes sens

Any other things I should know?


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87*
> 
> Hi everyone, I am looking at the UD3 for my platform upgrade in the near future. I have been using Windows 10 for a few weeks and I'm not impressed. I would go back to 7, but the few things I like in 10 is available in Linux. So I will be making my main OS Linux soon. How is this board with Debian Linux 64 driver wise. (I only run stable no testing)?
> Does the board come with a gui uefi bios, or a classic bios? I know there was a new revision.
> If I wanted to use both PCIe x1 lanes will my gpu card run at full in the second PCIe x16? If that makes sens
> Any other things I should know?


Last night I bought the 990FXA UD3 (version 4.1) to replace my MSI 970 Gaming motherboard (second MSI 970 Gaming that stopped working this year).

I do not really like the Gigabyte BIOS design, thinking of replacing it with the Asus M5A99FX Pro 2.0.


----------



## Mugen87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tacoboy*
> 
> Last night I bought the 990FXA UD3 (version 4.1) to replace my MSI 970 Gaming motherboard (second MSI 970 Gaming that stopped working this year).
> 
> I do not really like the Gigabyte BIOS design, thinking of replacing it with the Asus M5A99FX Pro 2.0.


Was the bios uefi with graphics or classic bios text based?


----------



## Quail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87*
> 
> Hi everyone, I am looking at the UD3 for my platform upgrade in the near future. I have been using Windows 10 for a few weeks and I'm not impressed. I would go back to 7, but the few things I like in 10 is available in Linux. So I will be making my main OS Linux soon. How is this board with Debian Linux 64 driver wise. (I only run stable no testing)?
> 
> Does the board come with a gui uefi bios, or a classic bios? I know there was a new revision.
> 
> If I wanted to use both PCIe x1 lanes will my gpu card run at full in the second PCIe x16? If that makes sens
> 
> Any other things I should know?


All GNU/Linux kernel drivers you need for this board are free and pretty standard, so they come bundled with the Debian LiveCD by default. AMD chipset RAID controllers however are not supported in GNU/Linux, so you'll need to use LVM or BTFRS for RAID/JBOD.

Using your graphics card in the second x16 PCIe slot (note that this is the third physical x16 slot on the board) is possible, but not widely practised. You can just as well put the graphics card into the first x16 slot and stick the x1 cards into the rest of the slots, even if these slots are physically the size of x16 slots. But yes, if you do this, the card will run at x16 speeds.

The BIOS is UEFI compatible, but doesn't have a fancy layout with mouse support.


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tacoboy*
> 
> Last night I bought the 990FXA UD3 (version 4.1) to replace my MSI 970 Gaming motherboard (second MSI 970 Gaming that stopped working this year).
> 
> I do not really like the Gigabyte BIOS design, thinking of replacing it with the Asus M5A99FX Pro 2.0.
> 
> 
> 
> Was the bios uefi with graphics or classic bios text based?
Click to expand...

It's a UEFI BIOS, I doubt there are none or almost none of the older style motherboards with the classic BIOS made anymore


----------



## Mugen87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quail*
> 
> All GNU/Linux kernel drivers you need for this board are free and pretty standard, so they come bundled with the Debian LiveCD by default. AMD chipset RAID controllers however are not supported in GNU/Linux, so you'll need to use LVM or BTFRS for RAID/JBOD.
> 
> Using your graphics card in the second x16 PCIe slot (note that this is the third physical x16 slot on the board) is possible, but not widely practised. You can just as well put the graphics card into the first x16 slot and stick the x1 cards into the rest of the slots, even if these slots are physically the size of x16 slots. But yes, if you do this, the card will run at x16 speeds.
> 
> The BIOS is UEFI compatible, but doesn't have a fancy layout with mouse support.


Thanks.
I won't need raid support from this board, so perfect.

On the PCIe question. So if I want to use a PCIe x1 card in a x16 slot. All will be good to go?

I can live with out a gui


----------



## Mugen87

Another question. I will get a fx6300 with this ram kit Klevv Neo 8GB

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://m.newegg.com/Product/index%3Fitemnumber%3DN82E16820101004&ved=0CCcQFjAAahUKEwjE-IPxsr7HAhXJ2R4KHT2BDuY&usg=AFQjCNGGf6as8cgH9sJRCb-SQei_EY59gQ&sig2=CX15fpuhIXbbppIywuY1fg

Any thoughts on that ram?


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mugen87*
> 
> Another question. I will get a fx6300 with this ram kit Klevv Neo 8GB
> 
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://m.newegg.com/Product/index%3Fitemnumber%3DN82E16820101004&ved=0CCcQFjAAahUKEwjE-IPxsr7HAhXJ2R4KHT2BDuY&usg=AFQjCNGGf6as8cgH9sJRCb-SQei_EY59gQ&sig2=CX15fpuhIXbbppIywuY1fg
> 
> Any thoughts on that ram?


So you going to buy memory, that is out of stock, to go with your FX-6300?


----------



## Mugen87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tacoboy*
> 
> So you going to buy memory, that is out of stock, to go with your FX-6300?


I'm not purchasing right now, but wanted any feed back on that ram. Made sure to mention the cpu that would go with that ram.


----------



## mus1mus

I have read somewhere that Klevv is a a very close Hynix Affiliate.

But that same article showed that they get bested off by Kingston and of course, GSkill.

Last time I checked, they are also expensive.


----------



## Mugen87

The parent company of klevv has a great rep. It's looks to be very new company.
I really like the look and wanted to give them a go. Thanks for the info


----------



## mus1mus

Well, tbh, most of the time I tell people to just base their component (RAM) purchases on looks. Esp if they are not up to great clocks and topmost performance.

So go ahead and try it out.









For me though, being priced a bit on the high side should mean highly binned chips and performance should compete with known good brands. But who knows, I only have read a single review on Klevv, so yeah.


----------



## Truedeal

I just bought some Panram? 2133Mhz 8GB Kit mainly because of the price. Hopefully it is decent.


----------



## Truedeal

The 2133 Panram kit is pretty decent, found out after the fact that this board doesn't support 2133, thanks guys but its running good at 2007MHz 10-10-10-28 35 . 1.6V


----------



## SavageBrat

hmm...i see the small print ...lol but one should know the specs of his own mb...







-


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You won't like my answer. But my answer is don't use raid without a good dedicated controller


So you were right. My UD7 build flipped out after downloading matlab and no matter what I couldn't fix it. I gave up, killed the raid and just installed everything on a single drive.

I killed my x99 raid this weekend when I pushed my OC too far, when rebooting it tried to load from the incredibles DVD my son was watching then gave an error saying parts of the boot sequence was corrupted and after trying to repair it I got errors about the kernel. So windows 10 had to be reinstalled.

Pain in my buttocks. I wish there were a raid controller that didn't need PCIe space I don't have. Maybe there will be some new dual GPU cards that will give me space for a raid card.

X79 has been flawless with raid, other than the pain in the butt setting it up.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Truedeal*
> 
> The 2133 Panram kit is pretty decent, found out after the fact that this board doesn't support 2133, thanks guys but its running good at 2007MHz 10-10-10-28 35 . 1.6V


Grats. Have you tried 2133 using FSB of 229 or 267? Both should be able to hit fairly easy CPU-NB speeds that will not pose major issues.









But there kits that might do better. Might be cheaper as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> hmm...i see the small print ...lol but one should know the specs of his own mb...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -


That's why we're here. Overclocking is forcing out-of-specs clocks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You won't like my answer. But my answer is don't use raid without a good dedicated controller
> 
> 
> 
> So you were right. My UD7 build flipped out after downloading matlab and no matter what I couldn't fix it. I gave up, killed the raid and just installed everything on a single drive.
> 
> I killed my x99 raid this weekend when I pushed my OC too far, when rebooting it tried to load from the incredibles DVD my son was watching then gave an error saying parts of the boot sequence was corrupted and after trying to repair it I got errors about the kernel. So windows 10 had to be reinstalled.
> 
> Pain in my buttocks. I wish there were a raid controller that didn't need PCIe space I don't have. Maybe there will be some new dual GPU cards that will give me space for a raid card.
> 
> X79 has been flawless with raid, other than the pain in the butt setting it up.
Click to expand...

:/
sorry to hear

best solution - SSD + ZFS zraid for rest >:O


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> :/
> sorry to hear
> 
> best solution - SSD + ZFS zraid for rest >:O


Not like you didn't say it. I was more screwing around with the ud7 to see what it would do. I must say that mostly I want to smash this thing, maybe it is the bum CPU (9590) that won't even run at advertised speeds or it is the GPUs that are slow and struggle but it will be good in the winter when my office gets cold.

I will look into ZFS for this build, it is what I use on my NAS.


----------



## Mega Man

that is what i am talking about XD

just use a sdd it will be fine

i can help you with the mobo though if you want need some bios screens


----------



## Dagamus NM

Yeah, I got that. I went looking for software and realized quickly it pertains to NAS setups which I am familiar with through Freenas.

What key takes screen shots in the bios and where do they save to? USB?


----------



## Truedeal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Grats. Grats. Have you tried 2133 using FSB of 229 or 267? Both should be able to hit fairly easy CPU-NB speeds that will not pose major issues.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But there kits that might do better. Might be cheaper as well.


Okay, ill try increasing the FSB for 2133 tomorrow.

$49 is pretty cheap for a 2133 8gb kit right?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dagamus NM*
> 
> Yeah, I got that. I went looking for software and realized quickly it pertains to NAS setups which I am familiar with through Freenas.
> 
> What key takes screen shots in the bios and where do they save to? USB?


F12

Fat32 usb


----------



## cssorkinman

So I finally got around to firing up the 990fx UD5 I've had sitting here for over a year. Hardware wise, impressive board, very sturdy and looks to be well made in every respect.
It's my first go around with Gigabyte motherboards and I'm having a couple of issues and was looking for some advice.

I set the multiplier to 20 in bios ( 965 BE) , booted it up and see that only the #0 core is running 4.0, the rest are at 3.4, what is up with that?

Messed around with Easy Tune 6, but it seems to introduce a lot of instability, is this normal?

On the positive side of things, the board seems to do well with NB speed , I see some potential, especially with my older chips.

Any and all replies appreciated , thank you







.


----------



## Hits9Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> So I finally got around to firing up the 990fx UD5 I've had sitting here for over a year. Hardware wise, impressive board, very sturdy and looks to be well made in every respect.
> It's my first go around with Gigabyte motherboards and I'm having a couple of issues and was looking for some advice.
> 
> I set the multiplier to 20 in bios ( 965 BE) , booted it up and see that only the #0 core is running 4.0, the rest are at 3.4, what is up with that?
> 
> Messed around with Easy Tune 6, but it seems to introduce a lot of instability, is this normal?
> 
> On the positive side of things, the board seems to do well with NB speed , I see some potential, especially with my older chips.
> 
> Any and all replies appreciated , thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I have never had anything good to say about easy tune.

What if you take the
CPU FREQ to 230
Multiplier to 17
NB 2200-2400
HT 2000


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> So I finally got around to firing up the 990fx UD5 I've had sitting here for over a year. Hardware wise, impressive board, very sturdy and looks to be well made in every respect.
> It's my first go around with Gigabyte motherboards and I'm having a couple of issues and was looking for some advice.
> 
> I set the multiplier to 20 in bios ( 965 BE) , booted it up and see that only the #0 core is running 4.0, the rest are at 3.4, what is up with that?
> 
> Messed around with Easy Tune 6, but it seems to introduce a lot of instability, is this normal?
> 
> On the positive side of things, the board seems to do well with NB speed , I see some potential, especially with my older chips.
> 
> Any and all replies appreciated , thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> I have never had anything good to say about easy tune.
> 
> What if you take the
> CPU FREQ to 230
> Multiplier to 17
> NB 2200-2400
> HT 2000
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply,
Bus clocking using ET6 is sketchy from what I see, so I just need to take my time and play around in bios to see what I can do.
Never had a board that only overclocked 1 core when upping the multi in bios.... that's weird, what am I missing?
I hit 3000 on the NB fairly easily which is very encouraging, thinking I might plop my 1045T on here and see if I can top 4613mhz , which is what my old FX790 GD 70 was able to get out of it.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Thanks for the reply,
> Bus clocking using ET6 is sketchy from what I see, so I just need to take my time and play around in bios to see what I can do.
> *Never had a board that only overclocked 1 core when upping the multi in bios.... that's weird, what am I missing?*
> I hit 3000 on the NB fairly easily which is very encouraging, thinking I might plop my 1045T on here and see if I can top 4613mhz , which is what my old FX790 GD 70 was able to get out of it.


Really weird.

Power savings? Or anything on the advanced CPU section?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Thanks for the reply,
> Bus clocking using ET6 is sketchy from what I see, so I just need to take my time and play around in bios to see what I can do.
> *Never had a board that only overclocked 1 core when upping the multi in bios.... that's weird, what am I missing?*
> I hit 3000 on the NB fairly easily which is very encouraging, thinking I might plop my 1045T on here and see if I can top 4613mhz , which is what my old FX790 GD 70 was able to get out of it.
> 
> 
> 
> Really weird.
> 
> Power savings? Or anything on the advanced CPU section?
Click to expand...

I was pretty sure I had all the power savings stuff turned off, I remember going back in and checking things over to be sure then rebooting only to find one core @4000 the others at 3400.

Thanks for the reply









I'm going to set it up with a different chip and try again. I'll check the bios version too, it may need an update.

Do you guys have pretty good luck unlocking cores with these boards? I have a 960T is looking for work .


----------



## mus1mus

Hmm. I want that 1045 at 4.6 for your results.









Pretty good chip huh?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Hmm. I want that 1045 at 4.6 for your results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty good chip huh?


It's a good one, I had it on the CHV-Z for a bout a month and it did pretty well. Cool runner too









http://www.3dmark.com/fs/4031034


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quick question guys: I have a few GA-990FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.0) boards I'm testing out. All of them have the same choke numbers, except for one.

Is there a quality difference between these?

*Board #1*, 1R2 L1318

L1318, the rest are L1321


*Board #2*, 1R2 L1310, L1316

L1316, L1313, the rest are L1317


----------



## mus1mus

Probably just batch numbers.

It would be critical if both boards use identical numbered chokes on identical positions in the boards. And really keeping with that rule.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Probably just batch numbers.
> 
> It would be critical if both boards use identical numbered chokes on identical positions in the boards. And really keeping with that rule.


Thanks mus, my fingers fell off from trying to Google those choke numbers. Couldn't find anything.

On a random note: The pink, hard thermal paste under the north and south bridge is awful. If any of you guys still use these boards, since they're a few years old by now replacing the tim in those spots would be a good idea. I'm selling a few of these boards for a client, so I ended up replacing that with MX-4. The heatsinks are much cooler now.


----------



## Mega Man

Water block onry


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> So I finally got around to firing up the 990fx UD5 I've had sitting here for over a year. Hardware wise, impressive board, very sturdy and looks to be well made in every respect.
> It's my first go around with Gigabyte motherboards and I'm having a couple of issues and was looking for some advice.
> 
> I set the multiplier to 20 in bios ( 965 BE) , booted it up and see that only the #0 core is running 4.0, the rest are at 3.4, what is up with that?
> 
> Messed around with Easy Tune 6, but it seems to introduce a lot of instability, is this normal?
> 
> On the positive side of things, the board seems to do well with NB speed , I see some potential, especially with my older chips.
> 
> Any and all replies appreciated , thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Hi orkinman. I know this is a late post but I've been busy with my custom loop to try for 5GHz 24/7. I do own a UD5 R5 and can say that the board is much thicker than my UD3P. I did have to go to Task Manager then the Resource monitor to enable all cores (not sure if that's what it will take for yours). I have never tried Easy Tune 6 since I've learned here to do my overclocking in the bios only. I can tell you that I can run 4.9 24/7 with my H100i but package temps are at 65ºC max (IBT AVX VH) so I dropped to 4.83 for the time being. My 8350 wants 1.56v for 4.9. NB at 2600 and HT at 2800 with added voltage for all my higher overclocks. FSB is great so far. I've run up to 280 before and have overclocked my 1866 ram to 2006 with no problems. The VRM's run 10ºC cooler than the UD3P at 38ºC under load with a case side fan. I have temperature probes w/fan controller and checked that with infrared thermometer. The fan is one that came with my H100i. You are more experienced at this than I am so you probably can get a lot out of this board. I think it's a fantastic MB.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> So I finally got around to firing up the 990fx UD5 I've had sitting here for over a year. Hardware wise, impressive board, very sturdy and looks to be well made in every respect.
> It's my first go around with Gigabyte motherboards and I'm having a couple of issues and was looking for some advice.
> 
> I set the multiplier to 20 in bios ( 965 BE) , booted it up and see that only the #0 core is running 4.0, the rest are at 3.4, what is up with that?
> 
> Messed around with Easy Tune 6, but it seems to introduce a lot of instability, is this normal?
> 
> On the positive side of things, the board seems to do well with NB speed , I see some potential, especially with my older chips.
> 
> Any and all replies appreciated , thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> Hi orkinman. I know this is a late post but I've been busy with my custom loop to try for 5GHz 24/7. I do own a UD5 R5 and can say that the board is much thicker than my UD3P. I did have to go to Task Manager then the Resource monitor to enable all cores (not sure if that's what it will take for yours). I have never tried Easy Tune 6 since I've learned here to do my overclocking in the bios only. I can tell you that I can run 4.9 24/7 with my H100i but package temps are at 65ºC max (IBT AVX VH) so I dropped to 4.83 for the time being. My 8350 wants 1.56v for 4.9. NB at 2600 and HT at 2800 with added voltage for all my higher overclocks. FSB is great so far. I've run up to 280 before and have overclocked my 1866 ram to 2006 with no problems. The VRM's run 10ºC cooler than the UD3P at 38ºC under load with a case side fan. I have temperature probes w/fan controller and checked that with infrared thermometer. The fan is one that came with my H100i. You are more experienced at this than I am so you probably can get a lot out of this board. I think it's a fantastic MB.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks for the update.








I'll give it a go when I get a chance.


----------



## JerDerv

I have a UD3 v.4 and the VRMs hit 109c durring stress testing with an 8370E at 4.7ghz 1.416v. The heatsink doesnt get hot at all but the back of the board very hot. It throttles the cpu to 1400mhz when it gets hot.

Im ordering thermal pad material to replace whats on the board. Does anyone know how thick the oem thermal pad is on the vrm heatsink? Im thinking 1mm


----------



## MTup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> I have a UD3 v.4 and the VRMs hit 109c durring stress testing with an 8370E at 4.7ghz 1.416v. The heatsink doesnt get hot at all but the back of the board very hot. It throttles the cpu to 1400mhz when it gets hot.
> 
> Im ordering thermal pad material to replace whats on the board. Does anyone know how thick the oem thermal pad is on the vrm heatsink? Im thinking 1mm


Do you have a fan blowing on the backside of your MB? If not there are ways to implement one back there. There are many suggestions here to do this. It will help a great deal. No info on the thickness for the thermal pad. Look for a kit with variety thickness, seems I've seen them before.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTup*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> I have a UD3 v.4 and the VRMs hit 109c durring stress testing with an 8370E at 4.7ghz 1.416v. The heatsink doesnt get hot at all but the back of the board very hot. It throttles the cpu to 1400mhz when it gets hot.
> 
> Im ordering thermal pad material to replace whats on the board. Does anyone know how thick the oem thermal pad is on the vrm heatsink? Im thinking 1mm
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a fan blowing on the backside of your MB? If not there are ways to implement one back there. There are many suggestions here to do this. It will help a great deal. No info on the thickness for the thermal pad. Look for a kit with variety thickness, seems I've seen them before.
Click to expand...

^this. and,

Try to replace the push-pins locking the VRM Heatsink with a proper screw when you do the thermal pad swap. Might be worth noting if you use a 1mm pad, to keenly check for the contact between the Heatsink and the VRM by checking the marks on the pad. IIRC, the stock pad is about 2mm.

Also, you can try this mod by @ebduncan to aid the contact as well as cooling the backside.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> I have a UD3 v.4 and the VRMs hit 109c during stress testing with an 8370E at 4.7ghz 1.416v. The heatsink doesn't get hot at all but the back of the board very hot. It throttles the cpu to 1400mhz when it gets hot.
> 
> Im ordering thermal pad material to replace whats on the board. Does anyone know how thick the oem thermal pad is on the vrm heatsink? Im thinking 1mm


The VRM section of the UD3 can tolerate up to 120c. It will throttle back the cpu if they approach that temperature at least on the newer 1.1+ rev boards. The biggest problem with the Ud3 boards is the lack of a motherboard support in the VRM area. These things get hot, and go through plenty of hot and cold cycles. This results in the VRM section of the board actually warping the PCB, and causing poor contact between the VRM heatsink and the actual mosfets. This only compounds the problem as now the VRM run even hotter.

Solution 1: replace thermal pad and push pins on the board with nylon nuts/bolts. This will hopefully allow for better contact and prevent board warping if done early.

Solution 2: Do solution 1, and create a motherboard back plate to help fix a already warped board. Mus1mus pointed to my little guide on that.

The stock pad is 2mm. However it doesn't need to be that thick if you're using nuts and bolts. I found that .5mm worked just fine given your board isn't warped. Heck my board was warped until I made my backplate and fixed that issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ^this. and,
> 
> Try to replace the push-pins locking the VRM Heatsink with a proper screw when you do the thermal pad swap. Might be worth noting if you use a 1mm pad, to keenly check for the contact between the Heatsink and the VRM by checking the marks on the pad. IIRC, the stock pad is about 2mm.
> 
> Also, you can try this mod by @ebduncan to aid the contact as well as cooling the backside.


Thanks for the mention.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> The VRM section of the UD3 can tolerate up to 120c. It will throttle back the cpu if they approach that temperature at least on the newer 1.1+ rev boards. The biggest problem with the Ud3 boards is the lack of a motherboard support in the VRM area. These things get hot, and go through plenty of hot and cold cycles. This results in the VRM section of the board actually warping the PCB, and causing poor contact between the VRM heatsink and the actual mosfets. This only compounds the problem as now the VRM run even hotter.
> 
> Solution 1: replace thermal pad and push pins on the board with nylon nuts/bolts. This will hopefully allow for better contact and prevent board warping if done early.
> 
> Solution 2: Do solution 1, and create a motherboard back plate to help fix a already warped board. Mus1mus pointed to my little guide on that.
> 
> The stock pad is 2mm. However it doesn't need to be that thick if you're using nuts and bolts. I found that .5mm worked just fine given your board isn't warped. Heck my board was warped until I made my backplate and fixed that issue.
> *Thanks for the mention.*


It helped me when I was still using the UD3 and will continue to preach about your ingenious solution for the issue.


----------



## JerDerv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> The VRM section of the UD3 can tolerate up to 120c. It will throttle back the cpu if they approach that temperature at least on the newer 1.1+ rev boards. The biggest problem with the Ud3 boards is the lack of a motherboard support in the VRM area. These things get hot, and go through plenty of hot and cold cycles. This results in the VRM section of the board actually warping the PCB, and causing poor contact between the VRM heatsink and the actual mosfets. This only compounds the problem as now the VRM run even hotter.
> 
> Solution 1: replace thermal pad and push pins on the board with nylon nuts/bolts. This will hopefully allow for better contact and prevent board warping if done early.
> 
> Solution 2: Do solution 1, and create a motherboard back plate to help fix a already warped board. Mus1mus pointed to my little guide on that.
> 
> The stock pad is 2mm. However it doesn't need to be that thick if you're using nuts and bolts. I found that .5mm worked just fine given your board isn't warped. Heck my board was warped until I made my backplate and fixed that issue.
> Thanks for the mention.


Cool, im going for broke here so ill be fabricating a back plate. Do you know if the factory used thermal pad is electrically conductive? Id like to use it on the back between the aluminum plate and the mobo to work as another way to dissipate heat. I may even stick a heat sinks on the aluminum back plate to just be redundant.

Good news is the Rev. 4.0 board has screws from the backside into steel threaded inserts in the heat sinks so i can just use longer screws.

I plan on using artic silver 5 on the north bridge do you have any other recommendations?

It already has active cooling.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> Cool, im going for broke here so ill be fabricating a back plate. Do you know if the factory used thermal pad is electrically conductive? Id like to use it on the back between the aluminum plate and the mobo to work as another way to dissipate heat. I may even stick a heat sinks on the aluminum back plate to just be redundant.
> 
> Good news is the Rev. 4.0 board has screws from the backside into steel threaded inserts in the heat sinks so i can just use longer screws.
> 
> I plan on using artic silver 5 on the north bridge do you have any other recommendations?
> 
> It already has active cooling.


the factory pad is non conductive so you can reuse that without issue. The northbridge is fine with thermal compound, I personally used a thermal pad there as well and used nuts and bolts to secure the heatsink.


----------



## SavageBrat

Hi Folks, I have a question I'm running 1866 ram on my mb (UD7) though it will go up to 2133 would running 2400 ram hurt anything as I have a friend with some that I can test out and would I see any difference?


----------



## Mega Man

Shouldn't I run 2400 without issue


----------



## Strudel

I'm Looking at the GA-990FXA-UD5 with FX-4350 and have some questions.

http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4455
says that the FX-4350 requires firmware FCh.
If I receive a board with older firmware, (which seems highly likely)
is there a way to update the firmware without having an older AMD3/AMD3+ cpu?
Asus claims that their boards can update the firmware without a cpu or memory,
but I don't see a similar feature with Gigabyte.

The Gigabyte recommended memory pdf says:
"Note: Only one DIMM per channel is supported for DDR3-1866MHz
and higher speed as using an AM3+ CPU."

The 1866 section only has 4 small choices, I assume it is out of date?
I'd like to use 4 pieces of 8GB ECC, such as

Crucial 8GB DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) ECC Unbuffered Memory
For Mac Pro Systems Model CT8G3W186DM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148778
(Not sure why it says mac pro, is there something apple specific
about this memory that I'm missing?)

Stock speed, no overclock.
Would this work and be reliable, or should I look for 2 pieces of 16GB?

I've seen complaints about the firmware, and about vdroop, and
the x1 slot being crowded, but I haven't seen any complaints
about memory. Is there something marginal about memory on the UD5?
I'm wondering why the recommendation for only one per channel?
Does the board have something beside traces from the cpu to the memory?
There must be some problem, or they wouldn't put that warning in the pdf.
My only theory is that the extra dimm adds more load and more capacitance,
which prevents the signals from changing fast enough.
I'm also looking at the Asus Sabertooth, but can't find the lists
of recommended cpus or memory on their website, or an email address
to send questions to. Tried the live chat thing, but it wouldn't stay
up for more than a few seconds at a time. So I have no idea if
the sabertooth has a similar problem.

Is vdroop something to be concerned with the UD5 & FX-4350 at stock speed?

Are there any other issues with the UD5 (or FX-4350) I should know about?


----------



## ~kRon1k~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> not only that but i have 2 both with quadfire !~


I have a UD7 too lol it is in my daughters rig with 4 7950s


----------



## Mega Man

(Jokingly) Surely not!

Pretty sure we already have the 12 ud7s in the world!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strudel*
> 
> I'm Looking at the GA-990FXA-UD5 with FX-4350 and have some questions.
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4455
> says that the FX-4350 requires firmware FCh.
> If I receive a board with older firmware, (which seems highly likely)
> is there a way to update the firmware without having an older AMD3/AMD3+ cpu?
> Asus claims that their boards can update the firmware without a cpu or memory,
> but I don't see a similar feature with Gigabyte.
> 
> The Gigabyte recommended memory pdf says:
> "Note: Only one DIMM per channel is supported for DDR3-1866MHz
> and higher speed as using an AM3+ CPU."
> 
> The 1866 section only has 4 small choices, I assume it is out of date?
> I'd like to use 4 pieces of 8GB ECC, such as
> 
> Crucial 8GB DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900) ECC Unbuffered Memory
> For Mac Pro Systems Model CT8G3W186DM
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148778
> (Not sure why it says mac pro, is there something apple specific
> about this memory that I'm missing?)
> 
> Stock speed, no overclock.
> Would this work and be reliable, or should I look for 2 pieces of 16GB?
> 
> I've seen complaints about the firmware, and about vdroop, and
> the x1 slot being crowded, but I haven't seen any complaints
> about memory. Is there something marginal about memory on the UD5?
> I'm wondering why the recommendation for only one per channel?
> Does the board have something beside traces from the cpu to the memory?
> There must be some problem, or they wouldn't put that warning in the pdf.
> My only theory is that the extra dimm adds more load and more capacitance,
> which prevents the signals from changing fast enough.
> I'm also looking at the Asus Sabertooth, but can't find the lists
> of recommended cpus or memory on their website, or an email address
> to send questions to. Tried the live chat thing, but it wouldn't stay
> up for more than a few seconds at a time. So I have no idea if
> the sabertooth has a similar problem.
> 
> Is vdroop something to be concerned with the UD5 & FX-4350 at stock speed?
> 
> Are there any other issues with the UD5 (or FX-4350) I should know about?


both mother boards are good choices. Asus does not claim they CAN update bios without anything but flash drive, psu, and mobo. Giga can not.

Giga has some hiccups in bios but really they are not a big deal and honestly it is not likely that you would get a ud5 that can't boot due to this cpu. As it is very old.

Try the memory I am sure it would be fine. Amd only supports (stock) 1600 4 simms and 1866 2 simms (1 per channel) but I run 2400 without issue.

Pretty sure that is everything you wanted to know


----------



## SonicDust187

I have Rev 1 UD5 board and get about 5xx on the read and 1xx on the write with my Intel 520 using crystaldiskmark. Does that seam low to you guys?


----------



## Mega Man

Did you change the bios to ahci?


----------



## SonicDust187

Yes, everything is in AHCI mode.


----------



## Mega Man

Some connections (going from memory) run through the chip set ate you on the correct sata port?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonicDust187*
> 
> I have Rev 1 UD5 board and get about 5xx on the read and 1xx on the write with my Intel 520 using crystaldiskmark. Does that seam low to you guys?


What drive size capacity?

Check the reviews for your specific unit.


----------



## SonicDust187

The drive is 120GB and it is plugged into the SB chipset and not the Marvell chipset.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonicDust187*
> 
> The drive is 120GB and it is plugged into the SB chipset and not the Marvell chipset.


Looks inline?
http://www.techradar.com/reviews/pc-mac/pc-components/storage/disk-drives-hdd-ssd/intel-ssd-520-series-120gb-1060876/review/2

Windows Drivers might affect your perceived performance as well.


----------



## JerDerv

Modified my 990FXA-UD3 V4 today. My VRM temp use to ramp up to 109c then throttle the CPU. Now i its only hitting 70c.

Ill post pictures in a bit.


----------



## JerDerv

Stock VRM heatsink only applying pressure to the end most modules due to PCB warp as mentioned earlier.


Made a backplate with a heatsink to flatten out the pcb and apply even pressure to the modules. But the heatsink does an amazing job at pulling heat form the back of the pcb and dissipating it.



Tomorrow ill be modifying the panel for a filtered 92x14mm noctua fan. This is what blows on the rear heatsink and really dropped the VRM temps.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JerDerv*
> 
> Stock VRM heatsink only applying pressure to the end most modules due to PCB warp as mentioned earlier.
> 
> 
> Made a backplate with a heatsink to flatten out the pcb and apply even pressure to the modules. But the heatsink does an amazing job at pulling heat form the back of the pcb and dissipating it.
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow ill be modifying the panel for a filtered 92x14mm noctua fan. This is what blows on the rear heatsink and really dropped the VRM temps.


looks good, what you make the heatsink out of?

You must have more room in your case to run all that back there :-D. I retired my UD3 to my living room to be a steam streaming device/movie server ([email protected] 1.5ghz and 0.8 volts). Yes I underclocked it and undervolted the cpu, as I don't need performance. It barely sips power from the wall now, which is a good thing because it runs 24/7.


----------



## JerDerv

I made it out of an old Xbox 360 heatsink lol. Yeah I have an next s340 and it has a nice amount of room.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

The pwm fan controls are VERY disappointing for my board. I was so use to Asus and how entensive the controls were.

Also, I'm kinda having a bit of a hard time oc'ing my 8320E and I've read several guides and what not. Again, the oc'ing on Asus boards was a lot easier.


----------



## Mega Man

Eh. Get a aquaero 6 and don't use mobo headers


----------



## hatchet_warrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*
> 
> The pwm fan controls are VERY disappointing for my board. I was so use to Asus and how entensive the controls were.
> 
> Also, I'm kinda having a bit of a hard time oc'ing my 8320E and I've read several guides and what not. Again, the oc'ing on Asus boards was a lot easier.


You can just pop the multiplier up, no need for anything else. Do it one at a time until it doesn't boot, then add a little voltage. Takes maybe 10 min. I jumped straight to 4.0ghz considering that is the advertised turbo speed.


----------



## mus1mus

Note that there is a big difference between a STABLE OC and a booting OC. The reason you have had an easy time OC'ing to 4.0GHz is that most chips are programmed to be highly stable on their Turbo Speeds without adding Voltages like Vcore. Add the fact that Auto Voltages (since you havent touched anything 'cept the Multiplier) defaults to considerably high values when left as is.

You might be surprised that if you touch more settings in there, other than the clock multiplier, you can achieve higher OCs than 4.0 even without adding or relying to Auto Voltages. Your chip's VID for example, might even guarantee an extra 200-300MHz above turbo speeds. And will be in fact stay cooler than Auto Voltages producing excessive values.

Just to quote someone from another thread,

" AUTO and VOLTAGE are two words that must be banned when used together here in OCN "

Yes, they are that bad!


----------



## Mega Man

Esp with amd and asus. I am sure it is the same with other manufactures

Auto is just a setting. Predetermined. IE (just an example. I don't know what it defaults to) auto llc is just high llc. But that may change in different bios

Auto vcore is either your vid or 1.4 if turbo is enabled.

If you have. Vcore at auto and set it to 5GHz your vcore Does not increase


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Cpu-z is showing fluctuating voltages from 1.188v-2.00v @ its base 3.20Ghz frequency. I'll mess around with it later and post my findings.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*
> 
> Cpu-z is showing fluctuating voltages from 1.188v-*2.00v* @ its base 3.20Ghz frequency. I'll mess around with it later and post my findings.


??


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> ??


1.200v should have been the reading. Obviously a typo.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*
> 
> 1.200v should have been the reading. Obviously a typo.










Just need confirmation.

Seems like a good chip. Are you trying to overclock?

BTW, Voltage Droops or even fluctuations are Normal at those levels.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Offender_Mullet*
> 
> Quick question guys: I have a few GA-990FXA-UD5 (rev. 3.0) boards I'm testing out. All of them have the same choke numbers, except for one.
> 
> Is there a quality difference between these?
> 
> *Board #1*, 1R2 L1318
> 
> L1318, the rest are L1321
> 
> 
> *Board #2*, 1R2 L1310, L1316
> 
> L1316, L1313, the rest are L1317


Sorry for the late reply, but i normally don't read this thread. The choke numbers are just inductance ratings. Just like on the capacitors there are indicators on their capacitance or on the mosfets about the amperage, in the chokes (when they 're not painted), it indicates the inductance. For example:

1R2 means it's a choke rated for 1.2 μΗ.
R80 means it's rated for 0.8 μΗ.

The smaller number below, is the manufacturers' model.

That's all. Typically the 1R2 are the chokes used for the CPU phases. In this case, the inclusion of R80 may be for the RAM phase. So they 've put a lower inductance piece there,because RAM doesn't require much.


----------



## Offender_Mullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just need confirmation.
> 
> Seems like a good chip. Are you trying to overclock?
> 
> BTW, Voltage Droops or even fluctuations are Normal at those levels.


Haha no worries. I looked at my notification email thinking "why is he confused at my post?" Then I saw the volt number i wrote.









Yeah I was just dabbling in oc'ing. Honestly, I usually stay away from manual oc'ing mainly due to the fact that I'm lazy lol. I turned off all the obligatory power-saving features and what not. However, I'm working on 3 laptops and 2 builds for clients so I wasn't really paying attention to what I was doing with my rig







I think I tried 1.35v @ 4GHz but it wasn't taking it. It would boot to the desktop fine but got blue screens when opening up any programs.

*EDIT:* Started to slighty oc today. Stopped at this. Doing some testing now, gaming and what not.


----------



## MechanimaL

i've read about a F4a bios for the UD3 rev4 board. can someone tell me where to download it? i have 2 problems:

1.) dvid (dynamic vcore) does not work (crashes in bios, works when setup in ET6 but ET6 makes games not work/have horrible fps, 2games tested rocket league crashes at start, csgo has non playable fps instead of normal 160+).

2.) NB freqency (changes in bios dont result in real changes)

i hoped the new bios might help me anyhow


----------



## Mega Man

rev 3 and 4 does not show changes, you have to get ouit a calc and figure it out for yourself


----------



## JaviHache

Ok guys, I have searched everywhere, but the internet is too big, so maybe I overlooked something.

I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 with an FX8350 Black Edition. First of all I am really amazed at how people overclock the base clock directly to 245MHz since I cannot go over 229MHz without finding lots of instabily or plainly not booting at all.

But after a lot of research I have realized that the problem may be the NB Clock being to high for it to be stable. The STRANGEST thing actually happen and I can prove it to you all with a video if it is necessary. When I change the NB Frequency in BIOS, to let's say 2000MHz (which is 10x instead of the original 11x), this change DOESN'T take place when I boot. I boot, check HWInfo64 and see "NB Ratio = 11.0x".

And here comes the bomb (or at least I think it's pretty crazy). When I sleep windows and start it again, I check HWInfo64 and BOOM... NB Ratio is correct showing 10x. NB Clock is also correct being the result of Bus Clock*NB Ratio.

Why could this happen??? Does it happen to you guys too?


----------



## JaviHache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MechanimaL*
> 
> i've read about a F4a bios for the UD3 rev4 board. can someone tell me where to download it? i have 2 problems:
> 
> 1.) dvid (dynamic vcore) does not work (crashes in bios, works when setup in ET6 but ET6 makes games not work/have horrible fps, 2games tested rocket league crashes at start, csgo has non playable fps instead of normal 160+).
> 
> 2.) NB freqency (changes in bios dont result in real changes)
> 
> i hoped the new bios might help me anyhow


Ok, great, so I just see your post and realize that this is a known issue... but did you know that sleeping windows and waking it up makes the NB Frequency effective?


----------



## gringott

I installed a LSI SAS 9211-8i on my UD7 and all the speed and hiccup issues I had on-board controllers and SSDs & HDDs went away. Rock solid stable and fast. I was having problems before with speed and large file transfers, 8 to 20GB would choke and sometimes blue screen. Internal SSDs [including boot] and HDDs are now all on the LSI, I have 8 drives in 2 external cases connected using the two external eSATA ports from the motherboard. The only thing still connected to the main 6 MB SATA ports is an optical drive. Best move I have made with this board. Previously I tried a couple of other PCIe boards that were using Marvell chipsets, there was some improvement, but the LSI was like night and day. I was considering moving on from the UD7 before, but I am quite happy now.


----------



## aaronsta1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaviHache*
> 
> Ok guys, I have searched everywhere, but the internet is too big, so maybe I overlooked something.
> 
> I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 with an FX8350 Black Edition. First of all I am really amazed at how people overclock the base clock directly to 245MHz since I cannot go over 229MHz without finding lots of instabily or plainly not booting at all.
> 
> But after a lot of research I have realized that the problem may be the NB Clock being to high for it to be stable. The STRANGEST thing actually happen and I can prove it to you all with a video if it is necessary. When I change the NB Frequency in BIOS, to let's say 2000MHz (which is 10x instead of the original 11x), this change DOESN'T take place when I boot. I boot, check HWInfo64 and see "NB Ratio = 11.0x".
> 
> And here comes the bomb (or at least I think it's pretty crazy). When I sleep windows and start it again, I check HWInfo64 and BOOM... NB Ratio is correct showing 10x. NB Clock is also correct being the result of Bus Clock*NB Ratio.
> 
> Why could this happen??? Does it happen to you guys too?


i have this setup and im not sure why you cranked up the base clock?

these possessors come unlocked.. you can crank them up to 4.6/4.7 with just multiplier. this is about the MAX this poor board can go









i am currently running my 8350 @ 4.6 with 1.4v medium LLC.


----------



## Alex54

Sorry guys, I'm new here, and I have a question to ask:
I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev. 4 (Bios F3)
CPU: FX-8370
RAM: 16GB DDR3 2400MHz Tridentx c10 - 2x8GB
Cooler: NH-D14

My concern is that I'm working stable from one week to 2400MHz with the memory and the processor 226x21 = 4746 @ 1,4375v (max temp in full load 59 C° - idle 31 C°)



This configuration with fast memory, can damage my system or CPU?

Thank you all in advance.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JaviHache*
> 
> Ok guys, I have searched everywhere, but the internet is too big, so maybe I overlooked something.
> 
> I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 with an FX8350 Black Edition. First of all I am really amazed at how people overclock the base clock directly to 245MHz since I cannot go over 229MHz without finding lots of instabily or plainly not booting at all.
> 
> But after a lot of research I have realized that the problem may be the NB Clock being to high for it to be stable. The STRANGEST thing actually happen and I can prove it to you all with a video if it is necessary. When I change the NB Frequency in BIOS, to let's say 2000MHz (which is 10x instead of the original 11x), this change DOESN'T take place when I boot. I boot, check HWInfo64 and see "NB Ratio = 11.0x".
> 
> And here comes the bomb (or at least I think it's pretty crazy). When I sleep windows and start it again, I check HWInfo64 and BOOM... NB Ratio is correct showing 10x. NB Clock is also correct being the result of Bus Clock*NB Ratio.
> 
> Why could this happen??? Does it happen to you guys too?


Things you will need to know.

1. AMD FX CPU's have known dead spots in terms of FSB overclocking.
2. Keep in mind when overclocking via FSB, it will also change the speed of the NB, the hypertransport bus, and the memory.
3. For best results I found it to keep both the ratio for the NB and the Hypertransport bus the same, I think some bios actually force this. The memory can have a separate multiplier.

Default clock of the NB should be 2200mhz, people tend to overclock them to 2400-2600mhz. You can increase the CPU NB voltage to help with stabilizing this.

Honestly the easiest way to overclock would be by the multiplier instead of by FSB.


----------



## lsdmax

Gigabyte ga990fxa-ud3 v3.0

Successfully added AGESA OrochiPI v1.5.0.6 microcode 6000832
This file is added by AmdAgesaDxeDriver MMTool: http://zalil.su/838314


----------



## lsdmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex54*
> 
> Sorry guys, I'm new here, and I have a question to ask:
> I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 rev. 4 (Bios F3)
> 
> My concern is that I'm working stable from one week to 2400MHz with the memory and the processor 226x21 = 4746 @ 1,4375v (max temp in full load 59 C° - idle 31 C°)
> 
> This configuration with fast memory, can damage my system or CPU?
> 
> Thank you all in advance.




ga-990fxa-ud3 rev.3.0 bios: Fdc
No! All ok!


----------



## Alex54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsdmax*
> 
> 
> 
> ga-990fxa-ud3 rev.3.0 bios: Fdc
> No! All ok!


Thank you Isdmax, but I was talking about my DRAM Frequency and not of NB Frequency....


----------



## lsdmax

Why you are overclocking the FSB? You have a good memory. When overclocked FSB can lose (errors) SSD,HDD....


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsdmax*
> 
> 
> 
> ga-990fxa-ud3 rev.3.0 bios: Fdc
> No! All ok!


Strange that you have a 2400 CPU-NB On a UD3 R3.









It's a buggy CPU-NB multi. How's Windows Aero?


----------



## refirendum

okay i'm wanting to get started on OC-ing with my GA-990FXA-UD3, and after i borked/bricked my first board, i want to consult to see how i can take precautions about it. SO ANYWAYS, how do i save the stock stable bios to the backup bios? also if i'm using a FX8320 black edition, what are the recommended starting settings i should use? I'm running a custom loop watercooled setup, cooling CPU, GPU, NB, and VRM's w one 120x240 rad, two 120x120 rads, two pumps and two reservoirs.


----------



## lsdmax

Cpu 4700mhz
NB 2400

CPU Vcore +0.100V
NB core + 0.125V
Vcore Loadline Calibration: Ultra Hight

The ga-990fxa-Ud3 ver.3.0 + 0.125V Cpu Vcore it included protection.


----------



## Alex54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsdmax*
> 
> Why you are overclocking the FSB? You have a good memory. When overclocked FSB can lose (errors) SSD,HDD....


The best way to go Overclocking with these CPU was to find a balance between the FSB OC and CPU multipler.

Read this carefully:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming


----------



## Mega Man

again ill ask why, check out the 83xx club, the stilt just even asked why ? there are very valid reasons to oc with fsb, but it is NOT needed for most, and it is excessively harder. until you know your chip stick to multi only


----------



## lsdmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex54*
> 
> The best way to go Overclocking with these CPU was to find a balance between the FSB OC and CPU multipler.
> 
> Read this carefully:


I do not need to read these stories. All these dispersals not work and half an hour in prime95


----------



## Alex54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsdmax*
> 
> I do not need to read these stories. All these dispersals not work and half an hour in prime95


You are free to do as you please!

I'm interested in efficiency and stability...


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refirendum*
> 
> okay i'm wanting to get started on OC-ing with my GA-990FXA-UD3, and after i borked/bricked my first board, i want to consult to see how i can take precautions about it. SO ANYWAYS, how do i save the stock stable bios to the backup bios? also if i'm using a FX8320 black edition, what are the recommended starting settings i should use? I'm running a custom loop watercooled setup, cooling CPU, GPU, NB, and VRM's w one 120x240 rad, two 120x120 rads, two pumps and two reservoirs.


2 pumps and 2 reservoir? I think your loop is rather small for those.

Scrap one of the res. Do a dual pump. Will be able to produce better flow, and/or less stressing pump speed. Also is safer due to redundancy.

For overclocking, you might wanna take the chip for a spin at, say, 4.8GHz at 1.4 if it can. (you have to find this out yourself). Do a multiplier OC first at that speed. Test for stability and monitor temps.

I would not go past 1.5Vcore on that board. Though you can try given all things monitored. Clocks, Performance, Cooling.

The board is known to throttle at certain level, IIRC past 1.5 Vcore. But since you are one of the very few who put blocks on the mobo, maybe, again maybe you can have better results.

Observe how the board treats you and always be aware and do some precautionary measures when pushing the board.

4.8 might be a good target for you.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refirendum*
> 
> okay i'm wanting to get started on OC-ing with my GA-990FXA-UD3, and after i borked/bricked my first board, i want to consult to see how i can take precautions about it. SO ANYWAYS, how do i save the stock stable bios to the backup bios? also if i'm using a FX8320 black edition, what are the recommended starting settings i should use? I'm running a custom loop watercooled setup, cooling CPU, GPU, NB, and VRM's w one 120x240 rad, two 120x120 rads, two pumps and two reservoirs.


Alt+F12 on boot up should save the bios to the backup bios. You will need a ps2 keyboard probably. However it only transfers the bios version, not all your settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex54*
> 
> The best way to go Overclocking with these CPU was to find a balance between the FSB OC and CPU multipler.
> 
> Read this carefully:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming


That is old as crap. For noobs overclocking via multiplier will give them the best results. AMD FX chips have known FSB dead spots, nb multiplier quirks etc. It's not recommended unless well versed in overclocking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again ill ask why, check out the 83xx club, the stilt just even asked why ? there are very valid reasons to oc with fsb, but it is NOT needed for most, and it is excessively harder. until you know your chip stick to multi only


Good info as always :-D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsdmax*
> 
> I do not need to read these stories. All these dispersals not work and half an hour in prime95


Forget about using prime 95. It's generally accepted that it is no longer the stress test to use. Intel burn in test with AVX is a better way to go these days.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 2 pumps and 2 reservoir? I think your loop is rather small for those.
> 
> Scrap one of the res. Do a dual pump. Will be able to produce better flow, and/or less stressing pump speed. Also is safer due to redundancy.
> 
> For overclocking, you might wanna take the chip for a spin at, say, 4.8GHz at 1.4 if it can. (you have to find this out yourself). Do a multiplier OC first at that speed. Test for stability and monitor temps.
> 
> I would not go past 1.5Vcore on that board. Though you can try given all things monitored. Clocks, Performance, Cooling.
> 
> The board is known to throttle at certain level, IIRC past 1.5 Vcore. But since you are one of the very few who put blocks on the mobo, maybe, again maybe you can have better results.
> 
> Observe how the board treats you and always be aware and do some precautionary measures when pushing the board.
> 
> 4.8 might be a good target for you.


With him having a custom water loop stopping at 1.5 volts seems silly. Granted most good chips will get to 5ghz with less than 1.5 volts. Mine for example takes 1.475 volts to be rock stable at 5ghz. His cooling should be enough for higher voltages, but as always monitor temps and happy overclocking.


----------



## mus1mus

If that was a UD5, I am willing to tell him to shoot for 1.6 VCore. But the keyword there is UD3.









My assumption was that, it's rev. 3 and higher. Not a rev 1.X like your previous UD3. Thus, the conservative and silly recommendation on the VCore limit.









In a note, we have another user here that switched from a UD3 to a kitty and was able to OC his chip further on same Vcore.


----------



## refirendum

thanks for the advice, one of the reservoirs is a bay res (rather small) so i supplemented it with the thermaltake pacific res/pump combo. i am a little paranoid.


----------



## lsdmax




----------



## mus1mus

Do not answer a question with postings from the web.

1. It has already been determined that 2400 CPU-NB is BUGGY on a GIGABYTE. Hence I was asking if you have those issues.
2. We are not named with "OV" nor "OC" on our names. So stop posting pics from a Russian propaganda.








3. We do OV and OC but not naming our children with them.









Kidding aside, if you are having a good time with 2400 CPU-NB at 200 FSB on your board, good job.


----------



## SonicDust187

I have one of the original GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev 1.x. Does anyone know if it will support a PCIe boot device like an Intel 750 or SM950?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonicDust187*
> 
> I have one of the original GA-990FXA-UD5 Rev 1.x. Does anyone know if it will support a PCIe boot device like an Intel 750 or SM950?


"Intel says that they have only qualified the Intel SSD 750 for booting on the Z97, and X99 chipsets, and those are indeed the only Intel-based boards we could get to boot from this drive. ASUS, MSI, and Gigabyte have all announced their compatible boards and corresponding UEFI updates.

However not all motherboard makers seem to be prepared for this compatibility at launch. The EVGA X99-Micro that we tested did not yet have a UEFI update that enabled booting. Seeing as you can't yet buy an SSD 750 though, I imagine this will be remedied before they start shipping to consumers at the beginning of May.

As an interesting aside, we were also able to get an ASUS A88X-Pro system with an AMD A10-7850K to boot from the Intel 750. While it doesn't make much sense to put a $400 or $1050 SSD (for the 400GB and 1.2TB capacities respectively) in a system that is most likely sub-$500 , it's a good sign to see that AMD chipsets haven't fallen behind. If we ever see a new AM3+ chipset it should provide the same feature-set."

http://www.pcper.com/news/General-Tech/Intel-SSD-750-Series-PCIe-Compatibility-Tested

should work, but keep in mind of the pci-e 2.,0 limits.


----------



## refirendum

Currently running Prime95 on Yuki.
it's been about 5 minutes, no black screen as of yet (though that was a common issue for me)
My bios LLC was set at extreme previously, and i have it set at medium now. voltage is up at 1.475 and multiplier OC is set at 4.5 (4.8 seemed to make my chip unhappy, so I decided 4.5 would be fine although something higher would be a little nicer)

Just wanted to quickly ask, what causes a P95 test to give be a black screen? (no video signal) is it that the CPU needs more voltage, has too much voltage, or is OC'd too high? which one should i mess with first?

actually nevermind. i'll leave it at 4.5 GHz at 1.468v and be done with it.runnin IBT right now, it's passed 1 run, so far 24 more to go, and then i'll work on my gpu OC a little bit

i <3 my little yuki


----------



## Mega Man

p95 shouldnt give black screens


----------



## refirendum

it's not doing it anymore


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refirendum*
> 
> it's not doing it anymore


Why don't you fill in rigbuilder and put it in your sig, than people can help you better because they know what kind of hardware you are using.

Mega Man has the link in his sig so you can see how that works.


----------



## Alex54

I found my Sweet point for the stable daily OC:
Vcore 1.428
[email protected]
DDR3 @ 2200
HT LINK and CPU/NB @ 2600MHz
Idle temp 30 C
Full load 56 C
CPU Mark @ 10400 (above regular FX-9590)
Case Latency 52.9
SuperPi 19










This screen shows the results a little more low because the tests were done after a series of programs with intensive use of the system, so the configuration was dirty, but still seem attractive:


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex54*
> 
> I found my Sweet point for the stable daily OC:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Vcore 1.428
> [email protected]
> DDR3 @ 2200
> HT LINK and CPU/NB @ 2600MHz
> Idle temp 30 C
> Full load 56 C
> CPU Mark @ 10400 (above regular FX-9590)
> Case Latency 52.9
> SuperPi 19
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This screen shows the results a little more low because the tests were done after a series of programs with intensive use of the system, so the configuration was dirty, but still seem attractive:


Looking good. But there are a few points I should note:

1. Try shooting for 4.7 up if you still can. One good way to do this is by rounding off your FSB to produce a standard Memory clock. i.e. 1866, 2133, etc. Try staying low on the CPU-NB too. 2600 might be impressive in Benchmarks but limits and/or greatly affects your stability with IBT. A stable baseline settings is recommended before shooting the CPU-NB higher.

2. IBT Very HIGH folks. Less is bad as it doesn't load enough stress to the Cache and Memory.

3. MAXXMEM sucks for AMD. Use Aida64.


----------



## Alex54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Looking good. But there are a few points I should note:
> 
> 1. Try shooting for 4.7 up if you still can. One good way to do this is by rounding off your FSB to produce a standard Memory clock. i.e. 1866, 2133, etc. Try staying low on the CPU-NB too. 2600 might be impressive in Benchmarks but limits and/or greatly affects your stability with IBT. A stable baseline settings is recommended before shooting the CPU-NB higher.
> 
> 2. IBT Very HIGH folks. Less is bad as it doesn't load enough stress to the Cache and Memory.
> 
> 3. MAXXMEM sucks for AMD. Use Aida64.


Thank you very much for your suggestions Musimus, but I must inform you that I am an old overclocker (I started working with the Commodore Amiga, and after many years I started to overclock an AMD XP 2500 Burton







) I already checked the stability of the current system with IBT AVX very high, while watching a movie streaming.
Even with the configuration 226x21 @ 4746 and 2400MHz DDR HT LINK and CPU/NB at 2486mhz (1 hour OCCT stable) full load 60 C.
The current approach was the one with the values and temperatures altogether more relaxed, for a 24/7 use.
Useful to consider that the benchmark overall system configuration to 4746mhz are equivalent to those obtained in the recent configuration @ 4600mhz, with highest FSB and lowest Vcore.
MAXXMEM regard, considers that I measure always the CAS latency memory, even with PassMark Performace test and AIDA64 engineer version, and the results are aligned or with a minimum waste.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alex54*
> 
> Thank you very much for your suggestions Musimus, but I must inform you that I am an old overclocker (I started working with the Commodore Amiga, and after many years I started to overclock an AMD XP 2500 Burton
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) I already checked the stability of the current system with IBT AVX very high, while watching a movie streaming.
> Even with the configuration 226x21 @ 4746 and 2400MHz DDR HT LINK and CPU/NB at 2486mhz (1 hour OCCT stable) full load 60 C.
> The current approach was the one with the values and temperatures altogether more relaxed, for a 24/7 use.
> Useful to consider that the benchmark overall system configuration to 4746mhz are equivalent to those obtained in the recent configuration @ 4600mhz, with highest FSB and lowest Vcore.
> MAXXMEM regard, considers that I measure always the CAS latency memory, even with PassMark Performace test and AIDA64 engineer version, and the results are aligned or with a minimum waste.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming

read this.

Then revisit your attempts


----------



## Alex54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1140459/bulldozer-overclocking-guide-performance-scaling-charts-max-ocs-ln2-results-coming
> 
> read this.
> 
> Then revisit your attempts


Many thanks Ebduncan, this was a guide I know, and I really appreciate.
(Ironically, when I suggested the same guide, in the post # 11610 of this thread, I was almost attacked







)
I'm still doing some tests to find my ideal setup, but I need time. During this period the work and the family, are my priority commitment..
When I have successfully tested a new configuration, I inform you in this beautiful thread.


----------



## Mega Man

No. You were not attacked I asked a question that was never answered.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> again ill ask why, check out the 83xx club, the stilt just even asked why ? there are very valid reasons to oc with fsb, but it is NOT needed for most, and it is excessively harder. until you know your chip stick to multi only


----------



## Alex54

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No. You were not attacked I asked a question that was never answered.


OK, I apologize for the misunderstanding.

This will be a reason to do more extensive research, and have fun together in this forum.


----------



## Borellie

I want to know if someone is familiar with a nb frequency lock. I'm working on a FX6300 on a 990fxaud3 to bring it up, but I can no longer see the nb frequency greater than 2280Mhz. I am with several MP's along with higher htt's being bussy but i cant bring up the nb frequency further As an example, 225 htt * 20 mp = 4500Mhz - 2280Mhz frequency NB 230 htt * 19.5 mp = 4485Mhz - 2280Mhz frequency NB. The UEFI I can do the NB set up completely, but does not influence in the os. Is this a lock where I sit with?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Borellie*
> 
> I want to know if someone is familiar with a nb frequency lock. I'm working on a FX6300 on a 990fxaud3 to bring it up, but I can no longer see the nb frequency greater than 2280Mhz. I am with several MP's along with higher htt's being bussy but i cant bring up the nb frequency further As an example, 225 htt * 20 mp = 4500Mhz - 2280Mhz frequency NB 230 htt * 19.5 mp = 4485Mhz - 2280Mhz frequency NB. The UEFI I can do the NB set up completely, but does not influence in the os. Is this a lock where I sit with?


what revision board do you have and what bios version?


----------



## professorjonny

I just contacted the gigabyte support portal and asked if they could link the cpu temp setting to the system fan output so I could control the speed of the water cooling radiator fan and cpu pump from the thermal load of the cpu.

after a few emails back and forward none of the amd motherboard contain this feature and several of their intel boards do, so it looks like they will implement it in the bios in future versions of amd chipset motherboard and possibility release of bios updates tto the 990 chipset motherboards.

my 10 year old striker extreme had this option and it was really handy.

I also made a custom bios with updated option rom modules it is available here for my 990fxa ud3 rev 3 motherboard:

http://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=16626.0


----------



## Borellie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> what revision board do you have and what bios version?


4.0 Solved, an good oc'er gave me a great sollution instead of an uefi file.


----------



## refirendum

Fx8320 Bl-Ed. Have mine up to 4.5GHz. How much higher could i likely go? It is set at 1.475v right now i believe. Not stable enough on the lower voltages it seems. I have WC on my vrms and NB and cpu.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refirendum*
> 
> Fx8320 Bl-Ed. Have mine up to 4.5GHz. How much higher could i likely go? It is set at 1.475v right now i believe. Not stable enough on the lower voltages it seems. I have WC on my vrms and NB and cpu.


depending on the chip, you could go to 5.2-5.3ghz if you have a really good one. 5.0ghz if medicore, and sub 4.8 for bad cooling, board, and experience.


----------



## mus1mus

5.0 being a mediocre is a over ambitious.

1.475 at 4.5 then he'll likely not hit 5.0 sooner than 1.6V


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 5.0 being a mediocre is a over ambitious.
> 
> 1.475 at 4.5 then he'll likely not hit 5.0 sooner than 1.6V


Pssst....hey mus.... take a look at "his" picture again......


----------



## refirendum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 5.0 being a mediocre is a over ambitious.
> 
> 1.475 at 4.5 then he'll likely not hit 5.0 sooner than 1.6V
> 
> 
> 
> Pssst....hey mus.... take a look at "his" picture again......
Click to expand...

lol it's the internet. fair assumption.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refirendum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 5.0 being a mediocre is a over ambitious.
> 
> 1.475 at 4.5 then he'll likely not hit 5.0 sooner than 1.6V
> 
> 
> 
> Pssst....hey mus.... take a look at "his" picture again......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> lol it's the internet. fair assumption.
Click to expand...

I was teasing Mus, glad to see that you have a sense of humor about it









Good luck with your quest for speed


----------



## mus1mus

eb's picture?

It's from a RATM's album is it?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> eb's picture?
> 
> It's from a RATM's album is it?


lol , I think so, but eb was talking about refirendum's chip and that "dude" looks like a lady









(A very fetching young lady at that.







)


----------



## Mega Man

rule 1 of the internet. everyone is a guy,
rule 2 of the internet, if someone is a girl, please see rule 1


----------



## refirendum

there you have it. the internet. (what is the internet for?) ;D
anyways, i'll go for a 1.55 at 5.0 or 4.8 (it's going to be wintertime, so i need the extra heater anyways haha)


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> rule 1 of the internet. everyone is a guy,
> rule 2 of the internet, if someone is a girl, please see rule 1


As far as I am concerned, everyone on the internet is a genderless neutral.


----------



## mus1mus

Wrong!

Internet rule:

Never feel horny over someone's ava!


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 5.0 being a mediocre is a over ambitious.
> 
> 1.475 at 4.5 then he'll likely not hit 5.0 sooner than 1.6V


never know he/she could be pumping to much voltage to it now for that overclock. Also some chips like the cpu-nb voltage to be raised to maintain stability as well not just core voltage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> eb's picture?
> 
> It's from a RATM's album is it?


it is from rage against the machine  seems fitting enough for these boards haha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> rule 1 of the internet. everyone is a guy,
> rule 2 of the internet, if someone is a girl, please see rule 1


lol. I generally don't assign sexs to people on the internet. I just consider everyone It's until i see them in person or live cam.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Wrong!
> 
> Internet rule:
> 
> Never feel horny over someone's ava!


----------



## refirendum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Wrong!
> 
> Internet rule:
> 
> Never feel horny over someone's ava!


good rule.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *refirendum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Wrong!
> 
> Internet rule:
> 
> Never feel horny over someone's ava!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good rule.
Click to expand...

But my avatar is soooo purty!


----------



## qwerty drive

My CPU temp in the bios seems to jump all over the place with AMD Turbo Core enabled. With it off the CPU bios Temps hardly ever change. I will probably leave it off anyway and manually overclock but Would Turbo Core cause that much voltage fluctuation in the bios.?

The board is a GA-990fxa-ud3 r5


----------



## refirendum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> My CPU temp in the bios seems to jump all over the place with AMD Turbo Core enabled. With it off the CPU bios Temps hardly ever change. I will probably leave it off anyway and manually overclock but Would Turbo Core cause that much voltage fluctuation in the bios.?
> 
> The board is a GA-990fxa-ud3 r5


wait, they released an revision 5? what the what?

well that's all i had to contribute. kind of new to the whole voltages and LLC and overclocking thing, but i will guess that yes the temp will jump when the turbo is enabled as it will pop some cores up into their higher multiplier for a little bit and then let them back down really soon after, generating heat with the extra .5GHz on the cores that are in turbo. the voltage probably ramps up with the load line calibration but i don't know if that's spiking or anything. i have't seen spikes in my CPU temps since i started using it, but i do have turbo disabled.


----------



## kwaidonjin

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
this is the new memory i bought. I have a rev 3 board

this is what was in it:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233170

They don't seem to want to work together at 1866, each set works fine by itself at 1866 with xmp enabled. What am I doing wrong, they have the same settings
The only difference I can find is CPU z shows the bank cycle times different 48 for the 4096 corsair and 36 for the 8192 corsair, could that be it??? and how do i get them to work together??? Thanks in advance


----------



## qwerty drive

Anybody here have a Fractal define r5 with a 990fxa board, i cant seem to get the hdd activity led to work, Do the cables look connected right.? the power/hdd led just stays solid blue


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwaidonjin*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
> this is the new memory i bought. I have a rev 3 board
> 
> this is what was in it:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233170
> 
> They don't seem to want to work together at 1866, each set works fine by itself at 1866 with xmp enabled. What am I doing wrong, they have the same settings
> The only difference I can find is CPU z shows the bank cycle times different 48 for the 4096 corsair and 36 for the 8192 corsair, could that be it??? and how do i get them to work together??? Thanks in advance


Mixing ram = recipe for troubles.

Make sure to populate the board properly by having matching dimms on the same channel. Try manually setting the cycle time to 48 . Bump ram and cpu/nb voltages a bit , that will help.

Good luck,

Personally I don't think it's worth putting the smaller set back in for the problems it causes. do you actually do anything that uses more than 16 gb's of ram?


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> Anybody here have a Fractal define r5 with a 990fxa board, i cant seem to get the hdd activity led to work, Do the cables look connected right.? the power/hdd led just stays solid blue


shouldn't the HDD led writing face downwards and not upwards?


----------



## kwaidonjin

Just gaming. I didn't know if I would be better off with 24gb at a lower speed or 16 gb at 1866???


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwaidonjin*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233536
> this is the new memory i bought. I have a rev 3 board
> 
> this is what was in it:
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233170
> 
> They don't seem to want to work together at 1866, each set works fine by itself at 1866 with xmp enabled. What am I doing wrong, they have the same settings
> The only difference I can find is CPU z shows the bank cycle times different 48 for the 4096 corsair and 36 for the 8192 corsair, could that be it??? and how do i get them to work together??? Thanks in advance


what do you mean they don't want to work? do they not post? or do they not detect all the memory? maybe they are not stable?

First off they are mismatched size of dimm. One set of your dimms is 8gb Sticks, while the other set of dimms are 4gb Sticks. So first things you will need to make sure both 8gb sticks are on the same channel and both the 4gb sticks are on the other channel. Second Good luck trying to get them to work at 1866, you will likely need to back down to 1600.

I'd recommend just taking the 4gb sticks out, and just keeping the 8gb sticks in.


----------



## kwaidonjin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> what do you mean they don't want to work? do they not post? or do they not detect all the memory? maybe they are not stable?
> 
> First off they are mismatched size of dimm. One set of your dimms is 8gb Sticks, while the other set of dimms are 4gb Sticks. So first things you will need to make sure both 8gb sticks are on the same channel and both the 4gb sticks are on the other channel. Second Good luck trying to get them to work at 1866, you will likely need to back down to 1600.
> 
> I'd recommend just taking the 4gb sticks out, and just keeping the 8gb sticks in.


They post at the speed 1333 but 1600 and 1866 the computer won't boot. all 24 gb is recognized and stable at the slower speed, I just didn't know if 24 gb was better at 1333 or 16 gb better at 1866???? Thanks for the response.


----------



## kwaidonjin

I have the 8gb sticks in slot 0 and slot 1 and the 4 gb sticks in slot 2 and 3. so it goes 8-4-8-4


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwaidonjin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> what do you mean they don't want to work? do they not post? or do they not detect all the memory? maybe they are not stable?
> 
> First off they are mismatched size of dimm. One set of your dimms is 8gb Sticks, while the other set of dimms are 4gb Sticks. So first things you will need to make sure both 8gb sticks are on the same channel and both the 4gb sticks are on the other channel. Second Good luck trying to get them to work at 1866, you will likely need to back down to 1600.
> 
> I'd recommend just taking the 4gb sticks out, and just keeping the 8gb sticks in.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know of any game that will actually use 16 gbs of ram, 16 @1866 ftw
Click to expand...


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwaidonjin*
> 
> I have the 8gb sticks in slot 0 and slot 1 and the 4 gb sticks in slot 2 and 3. so it goes 8-4-8-4


there is your problem.

first its slot 1-4, second the 8gb sticks should be in either slot 1 and 3, or 2 and 4. Both 8gb sticks should be on the same channel, and both 4gb should be on the same channel.

channel 1 is slot 1 and 3, channel 0 is slots 2 and 4

Slot 1 is the furthest away from the cpu, and slot 4 is the closest.


----------



## kwaidonjin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> there is your problem.
> 
> first its slot 1-4, second the 8gb sticks should be in either slot 1 and 3, or 2 and 4. Both 8gb sticks should be on the same channel, and both 4gb should be on the same channel.
> 
> channel 1 is slot 1 and 3, channel 0 is slots 2 and 4
> 
> Slot 1 is the furthest away from the cpu, and slot 4 is the closest.


have the8 gbb seperated by the 4 gb, thats correct right?


----------



## qwerty drive

Does manually changing the voltage automatically disable Cool 'n Quiet on these new 990fxa ud3 r5 boards.? i don't recall this happening on my old 990fxa ud5 rev 1.0.
The voltage will never down clock after setting Vcore manually but on auto it will.


----------



## kwaidonjin

My mother board says on it that nest to the cpu is slot 4-2-3-1 in that order, can that be right? I always thought the 1 and 3 spot were separated.


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwaidonjin*
> 
> My mother board says on it that nest to the cpu is slot 4-2-3-1 in that order, can that be right? I always thought the 1 and 3 spot were separated.


Im my mobo i have my 2 sticks of ram installed in the light gray slots

http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5294#ov


----------



## kwaidonjin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> Im my mobo i have my 2 sticks of ram installed in the light gray slots
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5294#ov


Mine is all black and on 1 side of the dimm slots it says ddr3-1 ddr3-3 and on the other side closest to the cpu it says ddr3-4 ddr3-2. doesn't make any sense.


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kwaidonjin*
> 
> Mine is all black and on 1 side of the dimm slots it says ddr3-1 ddr3-3 and on the other side closest to the cpu it says ddr3-4 ddr3-2. doesn't make any sense.


Make sure there in the same slots as mine and Enable XMP in the memory settings / profile or manually set the ram timings and DRAM Voltage if your ud3 does not have xmp. Also make sure your just using 2 sticks of ram and not 4

DDR3 1866 (PC3 15000)
Timing 9-10-9-27
Cas Latency 9
Voltage 1.5V

If it still fails when running at 1600/1866 up the voltage to 1.6


----------



## drtweak

Hello guys.

New here. Long time overclocker though. Even since the Pentium one days. A year ago I built my first AMD build. Always had Intel until now. Well had no issues getting my first OC up and going. Specs are below. Haven't done a benchmark in a long time so don't know any of my scores. My question though isn't quite for overclocking but since this seems to be the place to ask about the GA-99-FXA boards. A few weeks ago I noticed my PC was taking a LOT longer to post. I know the GTX 480 does bog it down an extra 10 seconds or so but you are talking 30-40 Seconds from turn on until i get the post beep. I have tried different RAM, Different Video card. Only KB and Mouse plugged in, Removed all hard drives, updated BIOS to F3 (Was on F2), set BIOS to defaults and only had mini hardware installed. Nothing it all takes forever to get the POST Beep. The only thing I haven't done yet is swap CPU. Build my dad a FX-8320 build as well before mine and I have access to this PC so I can try swapping CPU as well.

Just wanted to know if anyone else has had or heard of an issue like this? I'm not sure exactly when it started to do this (There was no hardware changed until today. I upgraded from 8GB of RAM to 16GB of ram. Was shooting for 24GB but the 8GB and 4GB sticks didn't like each other). BIOS wasn't upgraded till today as well. It does this on restart as well. Takes for ever to POST.

Thanks for any suggestions/info.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drtweak*
> 
> Hello guys.
> 
> New here. Long time overclocker though. Even since the Pentium one days. A year ago I built my first AMD build. Always had Intel until now. Well had no issues getting my first OC up and going. Specs are below. Haven't done a benchmark in a long time so don't know any of my scores. My question though isn't quite for overclocking but since this seems to be the place to ask about the GA-99-FXA boards. A few weeks ago I noticed my PC was taking a LOT longer to post. I know the GTX 480 does bog it down an extra 10 seconds or so but you are talking 30-40 Seconds from turn on until i get the post beep. I have tried different RAM, Different Video card. Only KB and Mouse plugged in, Removed all hard drives, updated BIOS to F3 (Was on F2), set BIOS to defaults and only had mini hardware installed. Nothing it all takes forever to get the POST Beep. The only thing I haven't done yet is swap CPU. Build my dad a FX-8320 build as well before mine and I have access to this PC so I can try swapping CPU as well.
> 
> Just wanted to know if anyone else has had or heard of an issue like this? I'm not sure exactly when it started to do this (There was no hardware changed until today. I upgraded from 8GB of RAM to 16GB of ram. Was shooting for 24GB but the 8GB and 4GB sticks didn't like each other). BIOS wasn't upgraded till today as well. It does this on restart as well. Takes for ever to POST.
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions/info.


Did you buy a complete , match 16 gb set or just add a random 8 gigabyte kit to the one you had?


----------



## drtweak

Again 1) This issues was BEFORE RAM/BIOS upgrade. Had this before.

Previous RAM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231667

New Ram
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231673

For those guys. Had them in right slots for each channel etc just doesn't like it. I can run one or the other @2400 but once I add one of the other sets in it fails, but that is fine. I can just sell the old ram. 16 is all I really needed anyways and going to sell the old RAM.

The issues with the long POST. Again. happened out of no where/Don't remember when it happened (A few weeks ago). Uses AMD/Nvidia graphics cards, different RAM (1x4GB 1333MHZ GSkill I had borrowed from work for testing) etc. Only thing I have now swapped out is CPU. I fix PC's for a living (10 years as a job and around 20 as a hobby) and hardware is what I have always been good at. I'm going to try swapping out the CPU tomorrow and seeing if that makes a difference and if it doesn't make a difference try getting with Tech Support and maybe get an RMA or something else I'm missing but I have pretty much tired everything but CPU.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drtweak*
> 
> Again 1) This issues was BEFORE RAM/BIOS upgrade. Had this before.
> 
> Previous RAM
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231667
> 
> New Ram
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231673
> 
> For those guys. Had them in right slots for each channel etc just doesn't like it. I can run one or the other @2400 but once I add one of the other sets in it fails, but that is fine. I can just sell the old ram. 16 is all I really needed anyways and going to sell the old RAM.
> 
> The issues with the long POST. Again. happened out of no where/Don't remember when it happened (A few weeks ago). Uses AMD/Nvidia graphics cards, different RAM (1x4GB 1333MHZ GSkill I had borrowed from work for testing) etc. Only thing I have now swapped out is CPU. I fix PC's for a living (10 years as a job and around 20 as a hobby) and hardware is what I have always been good at. I'm going to try swapping out the CPU tomorrow and seeing if that makes a difference and if it doesn't make a difference try getting with Tech Support and maybe get an RMA or something else I'm missing but I have pretty much tired everything but CPU.


Not sure if it would help, as you say the delay is in the post part of the start up, but you could try to disable startup items in windows and see if that improves your strart up time.
I'd also try eliminating any USB peripherals - they can stall the crap out of a machine.
This is my boot time with an FX 8370 on a CHV-Z with most windows startup programs disabled and a few bios tweaks ( fast boot etc)


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Not sure if it would help, as you say the delay is in the post part of the start up, but you could try to disable startup items in windows and see if that improves your strart up time.
> I'd also try eliminating any USB peripherals - they can stall the crap out of a machine.
> This is my boot time with an FX 8370 on a CHV-Z with most windows startup programs disabled and a few bios tweaks ( fast boot etc)


what kind of Turbo SSD do you have that allows you to boot in only 7.7 sec. in Windows..? Is this a full reboot or just out of hibernation? I would like to know what settings you did in bios to make it boot this fast man. My fastest time was over 30 seconds lol


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Not sure if it would help, as you say the delay is in the post part of the start up, but you could try to disable startup items in windows and see if that improves your strart up time.
> I'd also try eliminating any USB peripherals - they can stall the crap out of a machine.
> This is my boot time with an FX 8370 on a CHV-Z with most windows startup programs disabled and a few bios tweaks ( fast boot etc)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> what kind of Turbo SSD do you have that allows you to boot in only 7.7 sec. in Windows..? Is this a full reboot or just out of hibernation? I would like to know what settings you did in bios to make it boot this fast man. My fastest time was over 30 seconds lol
Click to expand...

Cold boot. Kingston Hyper X 128 SSD.
I could get some more out of it by unplugging drives, eliminating usb peripherals, and disabling more things in bios, but there honestly isn't a lot of room for improvement time wise.
Enable fast boot and disable all unnecessary items in windows startup.

About the best " normal" boot time I can get is around twice that amount of time with windows 7 64 bit.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Cold boot. Kingston Hyper X 128 SSD.
> I could get some more out of it by unplugging drives, eliminating usb peripherals, and disabling more things in bios, but there honestly isn't a lot of room for improvement time wise.
> Enable fast boot and disable all unnecessary items in windows startup.
> 
> About the best " normal" boot time I can get is around twice that amount of time with windows 7 64 bit.


Hmm interesting, i have Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB and it boots very slow, perhaps if i enable rapid mode i see some gain. I really couldn't care less if it boots in 15 or 30 seconds to be honest but it could be an indication something is wrong tho.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Cold boot. Kingston Hyper X 128 SSD.
> I could get some more out of it by unplugging drives, eliminating usb peripherals, and disabling more things in bios, but there honestly isn't a lot of room for improvement time wise.
> Enable fast boot and disable all unnecessary items in windows startup.
> 
> About the best " normal" boot time I can get is around twice that amount of time with windows 7 64 bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm interesting, i have Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB and it boots very slow, perhaps if i enable rapid mode i see some gain. I really couldn't care less if it boots in 15 or 30 seconds to be honest but it could be an indication something is wrong tho.
Click to expand...

Delays make me crazy, boot , application switches, etc..... It's why I can't stand using my Ivy and Sandy i7 Intel rigs on a daily basis.


----------



## drtweak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Not sure if it would help, as you say the delay is in the post part of the start up, but you could try to disable startup items in windows and see if that improves your strart up time.
> I'd also try eliminating any USB peripherals - they can stall the crap out of a machine.
> This is my boot time with an FX 8370 on a CHV-Z with most windows startup programs disabled and a few bios tweaks ( fast boot etc)


Yea done that. In my orginal post above that i removed everything. Againt this started to hapoen out of the blue. No hardware software or firmware changes happened when this started a few weeks ago. Even a low end video card since i jnow the gtx480 i got adds like 5-8 seconds before post beep and id usually see the nvidia gx480 etc into real quick befire post beep and on other video cards as well but i dont even see tat anymore. Im gonna try swapping cpus tonight see if that makes a difference. I have noticed that the motherboard is having some issues reading mouse and keyboard at times no matter what usb i use. Those are only two usb devices i have


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Delays make me crazy, boot , application switches, etc..... It's why I can't stand using my Ivy and Sandy i7 Intel rigs on a daily basis.


I prefer faster starting as well but i kinda gave up the day i noticed that my Samsung SSD is rather slow at boot lol
I just did a reboot and the time was 26.2 seconds. Its not dead slow but still, could be better tho.

I also have a few programs that i like to start with Windows like, Logitech gaming software, HWINFO64, Corsair link etc. I guess i could start them up after i enter Windows but that doesn't make any sense imo and doesn't really speed up the boot process.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Delays make me crazy, boot , application switches, etc..... It's why I can't stand using my Ivy and Sandy i7 Intel rigs on a daily basis.
> 
> 
> 
> I prefer faster starting as well but i kinda gave up the day i noticed that my Samsung SSD is rather slow at boot lol
> I just did a reboot and the time was 26.2 seconds. Its not dead slow but still, could be better tho.
> 
> I also have a few programs that i like to start with Windows like, Logitech gaming software, HWINFO64, Corsair link etc. I guess i could start them up after i enter Windows but that doesn't make any sense imo and doesn't really speed up the boot process.
Click to expand...

Corsair link is horrible....lol , the logitech stuff uses a surprising amount of resources


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Corsair link is horrible....lol , the logitech stuff uses a surprising amount of resources


Why is it horrible? I don't have any problems with it to be honest so far. I had problems yes, bet these are all resolved in firmware updates.

I agree on the Logitech part tho, i discovered that the hard way when i was playing metro 2033 redux. I would only get 25-35 FPS when i enabled HWINFO64 to report to my Logitech G19 LCD screen.. after many hours of research i discovered that when i disabled "unicore" in task manager i get in the upper 70 s.
I only seen this with Metro 2033 redux tho, Metro last light didn't have this problem so its kinda weird.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Corsair link is horrible....lol , the logitech stuff uses a surprising amount of resources
> 
> 
> 
> Why is it horrible? I don't have any problems with it to be honest so far. I had problems yes, bet these are all resolved in firmware updates.
> 
> I agree on the Logitech part tho, i discovered that the hard way when i was playing metro 2033 redux. I would only get 25-35 FPS when i enabled HWINFO64 to report to my Logitech G19 LCD screen.. after many hours of research i discovered that when i disabled "unicore" in task manager i get in the upper 70 s.
> I only seen this with Metro 2033 redux tho, Metro last light didn't have this problem so its kinda weird.
Click to expand...

It takes for ever to initialize on the system I have it on


----------



## hurricane28

hmm funny, i don't have that problem to be honest.

It works like a charm, it starts with Windows and never had a problem with it.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> hmm funny, i don't have that problem to be honest.
> 
> It works like a charm, it starts with Windows and never had a problem with it.


It's on my Z87 / 4790k rig , love the h100i gtx though, will keep it cool up to 4.9ghz on most anything except AVX2 enabled stuff.


----------



## hurricane28

Okay cool, is the GTX better than the H100i? I am not complaining with my new Noctua NF-F12 Industrial 3000 rpm fans tho


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Okay cool, is the GTX better than the H100i? I am not complaining with my new Noctua NF-F12 Industrial 3000 rpm fans tho


Really don't know , but it's quiet and I went from hitting 100C on the stock cooler to barely hitting the 80's at 900mhz higher clocks.


----------



## qwerty drive

I just changed my PSU over to a Silverstone Strider and HWMonitor is reporting 8v on the 12v rail, i don't think it is meant to do that..lol

Lucky the bios and HWiNFO64 are reporting 12v. I guess HWMonitor don't like my ud3 r5


----------



## Mega Man

Don't trust software readouts.

There is a bios (or several)/rev that read wrong


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> I just changed my PSU over to a Silverstone Strider and HWMonitor is reporting 8v on the 12v rail, i don't think it is meant to do that..lol
> 
> Lucky the bios and HWiNFO64 are reporting 12v. I guess HWMonitor don't like my ud3 r5


quite common, don't trust software, just pull out the multimeter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Don't trust software readouts.
> 
> There is a bios (or several)/rev that read wrong


yes!


----------



## Staragox

I started a thread to ask the question if anyone is using this motherboard with a GTX 970 graphics card. Since I'm planning to buy both, and want to make sure there is no problems. If someone owns both the GTX 970 graphics card and the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5 motherboard and are running them together (or you use to own and run them together in the past), could you post a reply in this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1582576/anyone-using-a-gtx-970-graphics-card-with-a-gigabyte-990fxa-ud5-motherboard

Thanks


----------



## BuZADAM

new motherboard has arrived . what do you think it ? ( ı think gigabyte too late this type mb for amd side )

http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5655#ov


----------



## refirendum

if i was going to build a red/black build i'd be more inclined to want it...


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> new motherboard has arrived . what do you think it ? ( ı think gigabyte too late this type mb for amd side )
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5655#ov


Could be a nice board, hope they put some effort into improving the bios.


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> new motherboard has arrived . what do you think it ? ( ı think gigabyte too late this type mb for amd side )
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5655#ov


Dammit i just got a ud3 r5 last month.. to replace my old ud5 rev 1. This Board would have been a much better upgrade. Why didn't they stick usb 3.1 on all there new boards


----------



## The Stilt

The 990FX-Gaming looks like it´s the 990FX-UD3 with some lipstick on it basically. Props for the M2 slot, however the first bios looks just as messed up as the other ones


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuZADAM*
> 
> new motherboard has arrived . what do you think it ? ( ı think gigabyte too late this type mb for amd side )
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5655#ov


wow, never expected to see a new AM3+ motherboard out. Looks like all the other ud3's except this one has a m2 slot, nice added touch. Who's gonna buy this board though? Am3+ cpu's are no longer competitive in anything really. Used to be able to make a case to people looking for an I3, to go with a 8 core FX to get better productivity. Now though since the skylake i3's are available now, I'd rather have one of those thanks to its much better platform and upgrade paths.

only feasible market I see for this board is current FX owners who are looking for a replacement board.


----------



## mthlay92

I recently installed a phenom II 555 into this mobo and was able to unlock all four cores. I followed some recommendations on trying to get it stable. However, when I have three or all four cores unlocked my computer screen freezes. On three cores I was able to get an hour and a half of a 95prime blend test. On four cores I can only get about 5 minutes of time at the desktop before it freezes. No BSOD, no flashing.
I did notice that while the extra cores are unlocked whenever I go to turn on the computer it turns on, fans spin up, shuts off, and then it continues on in a typical boot.
Edit:
3 cores with a small bump in voltage lets me do all my typical "computering" I have yet to run prime95 for longer than an hour so I don't know how truly stable it is. SC2, MW3, and Civ V all work smoothly. I continue to get the double boot thing.


----------



## reeven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> Dammit i just got a ud3 r5 last month.. to replace my old ud5 rev 1. This Board would have been a much better upgrade. Why didn't they stick usb 3.1 on all there new boards


In an year will all get am4 and zen. It doeasnt matter what they'll release. They are unable to fix bioses on their boards. Msi is way better at this. Gigicrap stupid as hell.
Till this day they wont fix usb 3.0 devices dissapear after restart, so why another gigicrap?
I have an huge external hdd 2.5 3.5 collection, verbatim, hp, adata, wd, seagate, all have this problem. Including usb sticks and so on.
So they can go bankrupcy from my part.

My stupid ud3 and ud5 till bios info appear it take about 12-15seconds......with an ssd 850 PRO.
MSI 970 till bios info appear-1 sec.


----------



## hurricane28

I had problems too with my UD5 rev 3.0..

UD5 rev 1.1 runs smooth tho but anything after that is a nightmare..


----------



## Nightz2k

Guessing I got the luck of the draw then. Haven't had any real issue with the *UD5 (Rev 3.0)*. I've OC'd pretty well with it too. Was around 4.8 to 5.4GHz. The 5GHz+ were just for certain benchmarks and/or Validations, not Prime/IBT-AVX stable. I did put a fan behind the mobo, cpu socket area, which does help a bit.

The only issue I had was the double booting thing, minor annoyance, but IMO, not that big of a deal _(to me anyhow)_. Of the other issues I read about, I'm really hoping I don't run into them. So far, it's been OK.








_(Had it for about 3 months now)_


----------



## Mega Man

One you get over the bios quarks they are fine they are making a mountain from a mole hill imo


----------



## reeven

i forget to tell you guys about an bug i find regarding wake up freeze on amd:

on windows 10, when PC enter standby will not wake up. Its not amd GPU driver fault, its chipset driver fault.

And i find the fix: the fix is amd new sata driver: http://www85.zippyshare.com/v/uk6XfGeM/file.html
The sata driver inside latest driver is at this location:

Radeon-Crimson-15.11-SB-SATA-AHCI-Win10-Win8.1-Win7-64Bit-Packages-Drivers-SBDrv-hseries-AHCI

install it manually with device manager help. For some reason this driver will not install automatically on 990fx chipset.
Go in device manager( right click win10 start menu then device manager), click on IDE ATA ATAPI, then on AMD SATA controller, click on DRIVER-UPDATE DRIVER-BROWSE my COMP-choose driver location, click NEXT.

In OLDER soutbridge amd drivers, this driver is found also in :

Packages-Drivers-SBDrv-sb7xx-AHCI ( SB7XX instead of Hseries).
On latest amd drivers you will find AMD SATA DRIVER only in HSERIES folder.

For gigicrap amd latest amd package, i found it on amd GA-990FX-Gaming

http://download.gigabyte.cn/FileList/Driver/mb_driver_chipset_amd-gaming.zip ( its huge, 1.13gb) package from 2015/12/02.
Our UD3 UD5 UD7 have drivers from 2014.
Gigicrap only update drivers on latest crap.

I test it on 30 times, every time my PC wake up ok from standby or monitor wake.
Before this driver, even my monitor will not wake up.


----------



## Pestilaence

Hey guys,
Since non-APU Zen CPU's won't be coming out until late next year, I was thinking about upgrading from an A10-6800k to an FX-8350, and the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 board. However, I can't seem to find any places online that actually have that board in stock. Does anyone know if it has been discontinued? Is it just so popular that everyone is buying them all out? I could go with the UD5 board instead, but would like to have 4-way SLI capabilities.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pestilaence*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Since non-APU Zen CPU's won't be coming out until late next year, I was thinking about upgrading from an A10-6800k to an FX-8350, and the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 board. However, I can't seem to find any places online that actually have that board in stock. Does anyone know if it has been discontinued? Is it just so popular that everyone is buying them all out? I could go with the UD5 board instead, but would like to have 4-way SLI capabilities.


It seems nobody is selling it, for whatever reason. I even checked the german amazon and they don't have a single sample. And i don't think because people buy them like hotcakes.


----------



## Pestilaence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> It seems nobody is selling it, for whatever reason. I even checked the german amazon and they don't have a single sample. And i don't think because people buy them like hotcakes.


Yeah! I've looked all over, and can't seem to find one that isn't marked way up; There are apparently two on the regular Amazon, but the sellers want almost 500 bucks for them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pestilaence*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Since non-APU Zen CPU's won't be coming out until late next year, I was thinking about upgrading from an A10-6800k to an FX-8350, and the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 board. However, I can't seem to find any places online that actually have that board in stock. Does anyone know if it has been discontinued? Is it just so popular that everyone is buying them all out? I could go with the UD5 board instead, but would like to have 4-way SLI capabilities.


they seem to be eol, you can still find them reasonably on ebay, i picked up a second that is doing well !


----------



## Dagamus NM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they seem to be eol, you can still find them reasonably on ebay, i picked up a second that is doing well !


Yup, I bought mine on Amazon last year, just keep a look out. That or get one of the Asus boards.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pestilaence*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Since non-APU Zen CPU's won't be coming out until late next year, I was thinking about upgrading from an A10-6800k to an FX-8350, and the Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD7 board. However, I can't seem to find any places online that actually have that board in stock. Does anyone know if it has been discontinued? Is it just so popular that everyone is buying them all out? I could go with the UD5 board instead, but would like to have 4-way SLI capabilities.


any particular reason you want the 8350? a 6600k build or a 5830k build comes to mind if your wanting more right now. Not to discredit the FX chips, i own one, but i've had this platform for years already. In today's market it makes little sense to go with a 2 year old cpu and dead platform. Your call though.


----------



## Pestilaence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> any particular reason you want the 8350? a 6600k build or a 5830k build comes to mind if your wanting more right now. Not to discredit the FX chips, i own one, but i've had this platform for years already. In today's market it makes little sense to go with a 2 year old cpu and dead platform. Your call though.


Well, I much prefer AMD over Intel, mainly because of the price to performance ration, but I really want an octo-core CPU. I plan on upgrading again in the semi-near future, perhaps once Zen has been out for a little bit and has been tested and reviewed, so I didn't want to spend a whole lot of money right now. I just want something that can handle the games I play better, and have the capacity to overclock a bit more, without breaking the bank. I can get an 8350, or even an 8320 plus a good ATX board for about $300 shipped. Getting a 6600k alone would be almost that price.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pestilaence*
> 
> Well, I much prefer AMD over Intel, mainly because of the price to performance ration, but I really want an octo-core CPU. I plan on upgrading again in the semi-near future, perhaps once Zen has been out for a little bit and has been tested and reviewed, so I didn't want to spend a whole lot of money right now. I just want something that can handle the games I play better, and have the capacity to overclock a bit more, without breaking the bank. I can get an 8350, or even an 8320 plus a good ATX board for about $300 shipped. Getting a 6600k alone would be almost that price.


whatever floats your boat. I just think that wasting 300$ on old hardware is a waste of time and effort. You say you will want to upgrade in the future, so you pick a dead platform? pick up a i3 skylake man, when you get some more funds upgrade the cpu. You have the platform which is modern, upgradable. Might spend a bit more now, but you won't have to when you upgrade again since you won't need a motherboard, ram.

You may like AMD, so like them, doesn't mean they need to take all your money. Zen might be worth buying, but none of the FX class chips are anymore.


----------



## marked427

Hello active members,

I am hoping for a little help with an issue I am experiencing.

First my system:
fx 8350
990fxa ud3 rev.4 bios f3
win 10 pro 64bit
290x
2x4gb
750w bronze plus

Issue is with the north bridge multiplier. The bios allows me to change the frequency but, when loaded it is running at the default frequency of 2200mhz. Now I can change the frequency by changing the FSB but, I have never been a fan of this method because it affects all components. This seems to be a glitch in the bios and which I have tried to resolve by reflashing the bios back to f1 and back to f3.

In addition, there was a time that the bios allowed to to change the CPU/NB multiplier but, at some point it whacked out. All other system multipliers are un affected and working properly...just the CPU/NB.

Does anyone have insight or advise?


----------



## reeven

happy new year.
I have some problem with my ud3 and ud5 :

On win 10, amd sata is v1.2xx from 2015, microsoft driver ( came with windows 10, or with win7 then upgrade win10)
with this one pc enter standby but never wake up, black screen remain.

On google i find that amd sata driver v1.2xxx is from win7. Win8/10 use v1.3.xx driver.
Grab catalyst 14.12, extract amd sata 1.3.1.0245( location: AMD-Catalyst-Omega-14.12-SB-SATA-AHCI-Win8.1-Win7 - package -Drivers-SBDrv-SB7xx-AHCI)

With this one, pc enter standby, wake up ok( after few minutes) but if i let pc in standby for about an hours after wake up, cant use any windows installer, my tuners not work, one of my hdd 100% utilisation.
In event manager- amd sata: Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued.

this error cause this hundreds of error like: kernel PNP :

The application \Device\HarddiskVolume2\Windows\System32\csrss.exe with process id 652 stopped the removal or ejection for the device PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4391&SUBSYS_B0021458&REV_40\3&11583659&0&88.

The application \Device\HarddiskVolume2\Windows\System32\svchost.exe with process id 532 stopped the removal or ejection for the device PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4391&SUBSYS_B0021458&REV_40\3&11583659&0&88.

The application System with process id 4 stopped the removal or ejection for the device PCI\VEN_1002&DEV_4391&SUBSYS_B0021458&REV_40\3&11583659&0&88.

Ok. So microsoft amd sata win 10 1.2.1 - freeze standby wake up.
amd sata 1.3.1. 245- Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued.
amd sata original gigabyte from chipset_win 13.125 , v1.3.1.0154 -Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued.
amd sata 1.3.1.270- Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued.
amd sata v1.3.1.276( latest in crimson 15.12 edition): Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued.

I get this on ud 5 and ud3 rev4.

in power options:
Fast shutdown on -off- the same problem
pci express link state power management: set to moderate or OFF- the same problem

And i go again in device manager, amd sata update drivers, and beneath amd sata few drivers versions i see
Standard SATA ACHI Controller, 2006 driver.
This one fix this crap.
this stupid crap appear on 31 dec (







) and i finally fix it( hope....) last night, after one week.


----------



## demitrisln

Quick question I have a custom water cooled loop and when my pc goes to sleep and wakes up my NB on speedfan is at like 70C then it will automatically jump to 40C. Is something wrong while the computer is asleep?


----------



## hajnalka

Incoming update old 990fxa -ud3 rev3 to new GA-990FX-Gaming + custom waterblock VRM + northbridge
https://www.facebook.com/ZoranICS
This board tested in web?


----------



## taowulf

A long time ago, i think i mentioned putting a heatsink on my UD3 and promised a picture.

Better late than never.

Had to use some of my spare fasteners a little creatively to get it to stay put.


----------



## Irked

Just picked up a 990fxa-ud3 r5 (rev 1) is there a issue where temp and vcore are displayed in Hardware monitor wrong. My cpu (8350) is acting like its thermal throttling but my temps haven't been above 48*c on any program Ive used (redone thermal paste twice)
20* or lower idle both times


----------



## Mega Man

Sounds to me like apm may be enabled?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Irked*
> 
> Just picked up a 990fxa-ud3 r5 (rev 1) is there a issue where temp and vcore are displayed in Hardware monitor wrong. My cpu (8350) is acting like its thermal throttling but my temps haven't been above 48*c on any program Ive used (redone thermal paste twice)
> 20* or lower idle both times


When I had my 990fxa-ud3 rev 1, a couple of BIOS updates made the same symptom. I remember that I fixed the issue by flashing the BIOS again but also clearing the nvram.

Just in case try other programs like Open Hardware Monitor to compare. As Mega Man says could be also that some APM or Thermal protection is not configured properly. Paste some screenshots maybe so we can see something else that is beyond the evident.









Dont forget to complete the rig builder so we can admire your pc parts.


----------



## Irked

Here are some screen shots

This is Power saver all disabled

Idle Temps 20*

Load Temps 48-50*
Cleared Cmos, re-flashed bios for it didn't seam to help


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Irked*
> 
> Here are some screen shots
> 
> This is Power saver all disabled


Please enable "HPC Mode", it prevents throttle down of the cores.


----------



## Irked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Please enable "HPC Mode", it prevents throttle down of the cores.


Enabled "HPC Mode" same issue. Ill just back it back down to 4.5 @ 1.40v as it doesn't do it at that speed.


----------



## Mega Man

there is 1 board that you can not turn off apm from giga. that is the board you need to enable hpc to " turn off" apm

otherwise it works like this ( lightweight not full explanation )

CNQ will lower freq ( multi ) and voltage of cpu if enabled and enabled in windows * ( voltage ONLY works if set to offset in bios ! ) *

APM - certain mobos can throttle baised off of amp draw, ~ 40c core or 72c socket !

hpc - removes apms throttling besides the socket !

to fix your issue i would need alot more info, bios screes/ mobo and rev ect

i know rev3/4 has hardcodded throttling in bios you can not shut off, we dont know if rev5 does :/


----------



## bigdayve

Hi I searched the tread for DVID and found very little. I'm wondering if it can be used to overclock turbo mode and if it alters P-states. If I understand DVID correctly, it allows to set the vcore at a standard level and an as needed higher level. I don't understand how it's much different than other power saving features.

I read a bit here, but it's an old thread and about Intel Gigabyte mobos. The most relevant part of the link says:

2) Advanced Voltage Settings Tab

*Added Dynamic Vcore (DVID) setting = this allows dynamic voltage reduction of VCore between idle and overclocked modes. To activate, please follow these steps:

CPU VCore = set to Normal (from Auto or actual stable overclocked voltage, 1.3000V for me)
Dynamic VCore = select the additional extra voltage which is required to reach stability from stock voltage (1.19375V for me) to required overclocked voltage at specified overclocked frequency. In practice:

F3f BIOS:

CPU VCore = 1.3000V (unable to lower voltages in idle mode, therefore results in 1.280V in idle and 1.3000V at load)

F3n BIOS:

CPU Vcore = Normal (nominal voltage of 1.19375V)
Dynamic VCore (DVID) = +0.10625
Effective CPU Vcore at Load = still 1.3000V (now able to lower voltages in idle mode to 0.9600V)

*** Dynamic VCore does not work if CPU VCore is set to Auto or to an actual voltage number. Therefore, to get Dynamic VCore to work in idle mode when CPU is manually overclocked, the CPU Vcore MUST be set to Normal first *** (thanks vshin) Don't forget to set all Voltage Power Saving technologies (i.e., C3-C7 states, EIST, etc. ) to Enabled.


----------



## Grompf

Kitguru published an Gigabyte 990FX-Gaming review:

http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/gigabyte-990fx-gaming-am3-motherboard-review/


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grompf*
> 
> Kitguru published an Gigabyte 990FX-Gaming review:
> 
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/motherboard/luke-hill/gigabyte-990fx-gaming-am3-motherboard-review/


Nice, good to know.

I already have the board and i am happy with it so far.


----------



## Grompf

I know I stalked your posts









I try to compare the 970 Pro/Aura and the new GB FX Gaming......cause one of them is on my wishlist in the end.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grompf*
> 
> I know I stalked your posts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I try to compare the 970 Pro/Aura and the new GB FX Gaming......cause one of them is on my wishlist in the end.


Haha. that's quite alright.

I do have some problems though, i get to my retail store tomorrow in order to exchange my board. It seems that my M.2 connector on the board is faulty according to Gigabyte themselves. I am getting very low IOPS which are not correct.

I do understand that i get lower random read and write speeds because of the Gen2 bottleneck but not more than 30K lower. I also get "Event ID 129 Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued" which is an indication that or the driver is faulty, the SSD is bad or an bad connection. After some research and calling to Gigabyte i discovered that its the M.2 on the motherboard must be bad. Hopefully this will solve my problem. Otherwise i will end up with an CPU RMA i guess.


----------



## Grompf

Well I hope you get your replacement easily. I am still undecided about the 8+2 VRM on the GB or the 7+1 on the 970 Pro/Aura.


----------



## rockandrollpt3

Forgive my noobness been out of the overclocking game for awhile! I've got a 990fxa-ud3 rev 4 paired with an fx6300. I bumped the multi up and threw a tidbit of voltage to hit 4.4ghz and all is well, but I'm interested to seeing how far I can push it as a certain game is giving me performance problems (new game, old engine, only uses 2 cores but most of the load is on one lol). I looked through the bios a few times and unless I'm blind there appears to be no option to lock pci-e frequency?! Is pci-e freq a function of something like HT/NB speeds? Is it permalocked to 100? I tried a few different programs and seems there's nothing out there to report the pci-e speed with this board. I don't wanna start ramping up things and risk damaging my precious 290x. I searched google/forums a fair bit and failed to find much info on this which was rather surprising

Thanks for the help!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grompf*
> 
> Well I hope you get your replacement easily. I am still undecided about the 8+2 VRM on the GB or the 7+1 on the 970 Pro/Aura.


What other board do you mean? Pro/Aura? never heard from it.

The Gigabyte 990 FX Gaming G1 is an very good motherboard and it has many nice features you would like. audio chip is very very good, VRM's are good enough, M.2 is an breeze coming from an SATA SSD etc. for the price you can't get an better more complete board than this.


----------



## rizo2525

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Irked*
> 
> Just picked up a 990fxa-ud3 r5 (rev 1) is there a issue where temp and vcore are displayed in Hardware monitor wrong. My cpu (8350) is acting like its thermal throttling but my temps haven't been above 48*c on any program Ive used (redone thermal paste twice)
> 20* or lower idle both times


Look in HWiNFO for the "VR T1" sensor. That will be your voltage regulator temp and on these boards it tends to run high. If you board is like mine the CPU temp is fine (mine peaks at 52C), but it will thermal throttle if the VR T1 goes over 110C. My heat sink on the VRMs was cool to the touch, but the VR T1 temp was hitting 110C regularly under CPU stress. I pulled the heat sink from the VRMs and found that it was not even touching in the middle. I shortened the standoffs and re-seated the heat sink and it is working a little better. I also got a couple of screws and screwed down a 60mm fan to the heat sink to force air over it.


----------



## mus1mus

This is what? Your fifth board to be faulty? On a single purchase?

You need help hurr.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> This is what? Your fifth board to be faulty? On a single purchase?
> 
> You need help hurr.


Fifth board..?! what are you talking about dude.. Again, i do not appreciate you to come in this thread and making stupid claims which are not only false but also is an indication you have no idea what problems i have with my system. So i would advice you to or make an comment that can actually help people and me with me error or just ignore the post and move on.. What you structurally are doing is immature and uncalled for.

So stop making a fool out of yourself.

Its not only me that has complaints about people like you, i actually got an anonymous inbox of certain people that complained to me about people like you like to gang up and bash people simply because they do not do what you are saying. I will make an report to the highest moderator about this because people are fed up with this kind of childish behavior and offers no contribution to an better community on this forum.


----------



## Irked

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rizo2525*
> 
> Look in HWiNFO for the "VR T1" sensor. That will be your voltage regulator temp and on these boards it tends to run high. If you board is like mine the CPU temp is fine (mine peaks at 52C), but it will thermal throttle if the VR T1 goes over 110C. My heat sink on the VRMs was cool to the touch, but the VR T1 temp was hitting 110C regularly under CPU stress. I pulled the heat sink from the VRMs and found that it was not even touching in the middle. I shortened the standoffs and re-seated the heat sink and it is working a little better. I also got a couple of screws and screwed down a 60mm fan to the heat sink to force air over it.


Megaman got me sorted out. VRM wasn't the issue have fans on vrm and back of Motherboard. I turned up NB core not NB. Got a 8 hr run on prime blend with no issues other than heat 60c . So Im going to have to replace my CLC for a custom loop to keep temps in check


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Fifth board..?! what are you talking about dude.. Again, i do not appreciate you to come in this thread and making stupid claims which are not only false but also is an indication you have no idea what problems i have with my system. So i would advice you to or make an comment that can actually help people and me with me error or just ignore the post and move on.. What you structurally are doing is immature and uncalled for.
> 
> So stop making a fool out of yourself.
> 
> Its not only me that has complaints about people like you, i actually got an anonymous inbox of certain people that complained to me about people like you like to gang up and bash people simply because they do not do what you are saying. I will make an report to the highest moderator about this because people are fed up with this kind of childish behavior and offers no contribution to an better community on this forum.


UD3?, 2-UD5s?, KITTY, Gaming.... refresh me before saying I claim BS.

Should I also count in the PSU? Seasonic that burnt your EPS-15.

850 PRO?

Ahem. Yeah, let's move on.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> UD3?, 2-UD5s?, KITTY, Gaming.... refresh me before saying I claim BS.
> 
> Should I also count in the PSU? Seasonic that burnt your EPS-15.
> 
> 850 PRO?
> 
> Ahem. Yeah, let's move on.


Your statements are completely blown out of proportion and out of context. I have had some bad luck yes, this is not coming from me alone but my products are actually tested by my retail store and under their advice i RMA my stuff. So making an completely out of context mockery about my misfortune is very immature and irrational.. If you don't understand what i am talking about or completely ignore that fact and continue, you are the one who needs help buddy, not me.
You also answer only half my post and only the things you can bash on, says a lot about your focus to be honest.
That's all i have to say about this.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> This is what? Your fifth board to be faulty? On a single purchase?
> 
> You need help hurr.
> 
> 
> 
> Fifth board..?! what are you talking about dude.. Again, i do not appreciate you to come in this thread and making stupid claims which are not only false but also is an indication you have no idea what problems i have with my system. So i would advice you to or make an comment that can actually help people and me with me error or just ignore the post and move on.. What you structurally are doing is immature and uncalled for.
> 
> So stop making a fool out of yourself.
> 
> Its not only me that has complaints about people like you, i actually got an anonymous inbox of certain people that complained to me about people like you like to gang up and bash people simply because they do not do what you are saying. I will make an report to the highest moderator about this because people are fed up with this kind of childish behavior and offers no contribution to an better community on this forum.
Click to expand...

here i will help you

like usual there is NOTHING wrong with your board.

wait for it, wait for it...
your reply will be " but even gigabyte says it is "

no, sorry iops does not have a special pin in the m.2 socket if you had a poor connection to your hd many many many more bad things would happen,
this is not the first time we have said something similar about multiple boards and no, unfortunately you dont listen


----------



## hurricane28

I understand that there is no such as an IOPS pin on the M.2 socket...









You don't have to put words in my mouth by saying: "wait for it, wait for it...
your reply will be " but even gigabyte says it is "

I am here to solve a problem and the messenger is not important. If it is correct what you are saying, than why am i having the following error?: Log Name: System
Source: nvme
Date: 2/20/2016 8:07:39 AM
Event ID: 129
Description:
Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort0, was issued.

And what is the explanation of the low IOPS. Don't tell me that its normal to have these low IOPS because i proofed you wrong about this already.

But as for reference i post it again: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-2894783/samsung-950-pro-reaching-full-speeds.html



I know this was with Rapid mode enabled but even when i turned off this feature i got much higher IOPS than what i am getting now.

And if you have a good answer, can you post some proof of this so i can actually learn something instead of being attacked all the time? Thank you.


----------



## mus1mus

Since you like to say, you know your thing, and we are wrong, did you even check your 950 Pro's temps?


----------



## Mega Man

OT
to the above, i also tried to tell him NOT to get the samsung drive,but to get the intel 750 due to the above

/ot

Ok, I will show you proof,

first this MAGIC end all you keep trying to post, without reading

ill quote the last post before you post
Quote:


> alexr123456
> 13 January 2016 01:07:42
> rcald2000 said:
> Fascinating! I did not know that about the FX-8350. Thank you for sharing that information. What led you to that conclusion? I'm always interesting in not just learning the answer, but how people reach those conclusions.
> I figured out the FX-8350 was the problem using the Samsung Magician software. In the screenshot below, it is indicating that the SSD is only capable of 5gbps out of a possible 10gbps even though it was utilizing 4 PCI lanes.
> 
> I did some quick googling about PCIE 2.0 vs 3.0 bandwidth and figured that was my problem because there wasn't any other reason it would only be running at 5gbps rather than 10gbps. After buying a new cpu and mobo that support PICE 3.0 I took this screenshot.
> 
> You can see that it is still using 4 PCI lanes but is getting the full 10gbps bandwidth that it needs.


do you remember me trying to tell you NOT to go to a PCIE SSD your sata SSD was fine iirc for the same reason as you are now trashing THIS motherboard? or should i find the quote for you, or did you even read my reply

do you remember trying to tell me you need to buy a x16 to m.2 adapter so the m.2 ssd will utilize the FULL x16 pcie speeds, and yet again I told you not to and why, you AGAIN insisted i was wrong because of, and again i quote "simple math" so i also had to show you proof why you were wrong. you never did reply to that one too, would you like me to go quote it?

this is as far as i will go, with my proof, i tried long ago to stop you from going down the m.2 road, telling IT WOULDNT HELP

but as usually " you were correct, and and everything was all better-"and yet here we are again, i have NO PROBLEM helping people, and showing proof, never have and my track record shows that, but why should i waste my time doing it, if you dont bother to EVER listen or read what i say.

so i will end this here, if you want to waste, more time, resources and money then do it, you will waste your time, and the poor shop who has had to go farther then they ever should of for you, and the companies money ( gigbytes ) one of the reason the costs are so high on tech, is the HIGH rma rate of PERFECTLY fine products,

/end rant


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> OT
> to the above, i also tried to tell him NOT to get the samsung drive,but to get the intel 750 due to the above
> 
> /ot
> 
> Ok, I will show you proof,
> 
> first this MAGIC end all you keep trying to post, without reading
> 
> ill quote the last post before you post
> do you remember me trying to tell you NOT to go to a PCIE SSD your sata SSD was fine iirc for the same reason as you are now trashing THIS motherboard? or should i find the quote for you, or did you even read my reply


There is no problem with overheating... look in the Samsung 950 Pro thread and you will see very few people have that problem, besides, the drive will only throttle down at a certain temp which you will never see.. perhaps they fixed this with the latest software? I don't know.

My temps of the SSD are now 36c and the max i seen was 57c which is way below trotting point. I do appreciate your time to make me understand but still you haven't provide me an answer about the error message i have in windows log file and why i was able to have 100K IOPS with the 840 EVO and not with the 850 Pro and 950 Pro..

I am just asking for some explanation because Gigabyte and my retail store say that its not normal and that my system should get around 100K IOPS..

I know that PCIe Gen3 is faster but that still doesn't explain my low IOPs, sequential read and write MB/s are fine and up to spec it seems with this chipset only the IOPS are low.

Do you understand what i am asking? I want to learn as to why my IOPS are low compared to the read and writes i get. As you could see the fella on TomsHardware thread i posted earlier, he could get the 100K IOPS. Only when he went to an Intel system he would be able to achieve the advertised speeds.


----------



## mus1mus

Who from Gigabyte confirmed that the board is at fault on your issues?

And how come it can not be blamed on to the 950 Pro? Or how come you have not said anything negative about the SSD............

yet?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Who from Gigabyte confirmed that the board is at fault on your issues?
> 
> And how come it can not be blamed on to the 950 Pro? Or how come you have not said anything negative about the SSD............
> 
> yet?


I have an phone number of an Gigabyte Rep that said that it was an hardware issue, his name is Yannick.

Maybe it is the SSD instead of the Mobo, i looked in to the SMART data and couldn't find anything that states that there is something wrong with it. Or do you mean something else, like compatibility?
The error i get in windows log means that there is an connection problem between my SSD and connector, so it must be that its the SSD or its the M.2 connector.
I am not sure its the motherboard and since i have no other components to test this, i go with the Gigabyte fella said right? What would your suggestion be smartypants?
If you need more information i will give it to yo in order to give better advice.

The SSD is working very well to be honest and its a lot faster than my previous 850 Pro especially when i load a game.


----------



## Mega Man

well you keep throwing rocks and hoping something sticks, that error DOES NOT *mean* you have a connector problem, it says YOU MAY and it isnt a common issue nor is it the first issue on the list ...

you dont think a driver issue is likely at all? or a windows issue ? or possibly 2 drivers clashing ?.....


----------



## hurricane28

Okay, sooo what would you suggest me to do now? I get this warning error every time when i start my PC.

I tried different Sata drivers, installed the Samsung Nvme driver several times with succes, Windows is not corrupt and up to date, i disconnected my other drives all with the same results.
If it was an Windows 10 issue, wouldn't be more people with this problem?
There is no malware or virus on my system either.

I asked several people and they all claim that its the SSD or the Motherboard, are they all wrong and you are right? I want to ask you how do you know if its not an hardware issue trough the forum without actually see or know my system?


----------



## Mega Man

Your right, I am wrong. You just happen to get what 5 mobos, 1 psu at least 2 ssds that all have damage. Must be the unluckiest person ever, even though a whole lot of people HAVE said your wrong (not just me) and Tbh most have given up and don't even try anymore, (so you think you are the only person with an in box? And I would be willing to bet I have more in mine )


----------



## hurricane28

I am not saying that i am right lol you totally misread my post.
I just say what makes you think its driver instead of hardware?

I do understand you when it comes to my RMA's but it is what it is, can't change that nor its my fault if things break down. And yes, i do happen to be a guy with very very bad luck at times lol

The problem is just that i have a problem with authority and i rarely believe people on their word because lots of people are full of themselves or just fruitcakes.


----------



## bigdayve

For those who follow the FX-8320/50 club this is basically a repost.

I found my system would crash when the vrm sensor hit the upper 90's while running IBT AVX. Then, I coat hangered my stock cpu fan to the VRMs and I have when the fan is running at full blast I'm maxing out in the the lower 80's under full load on my fastest OC. I can probably pull an 115 mhz out of my CPU to boot. I'm happy with my coat hanger I wouldn't recommend it though because you can scratch things up with such heavy wire and maybe damage vrms. Especially if you're lazy like me and didn't take off the cpu cooler. I'm lucky I didn't break anything







Heat resistant zip ties would have been ideal.


----------



## Irked

I have the same fan hanging on my mobo and just used a zip tie that came with my case for hanging it. Hasn't melted yet going on 3 weeks


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Irked*
> 
> I have the same fan hanging on my mobo and just used a zip tie that came with my case for hanging it. Hasn't melted yet going on 3 weeks


I hope it hangs on for you, glad it has worked so far.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marked427*
> 
> Hello active members,
> 
> I am hoping for a little help with an issue I am experiencing.
> 
> First my system:
> fx 8350
> 990fxa ud3 rev.4 bios f3
> win 10 pro 64bit
> 290x
> 2x4gb
> 750w bronze plus
> 
> Issue is with the north bridge multiplier. The bios allows me to change the frequency but, when loaded it is running at the default frequency of 2200mhz. Now I can change the frequency by changing the FSB but, I have never been a fan of this method because it affects all components. This seems to be a glitch in the bios and which I have tried to resolve by reflashing the bios back to f1 and back to f3.
> 
> In addition, there was a time that the bios allowed to to change the CPU/NB multiplier but, at some point it whacked out. All other system multipliers are un affected and working properly...just the CPU/NB.
> 
> Does anyone have insight or advise?


Bump

I read a few pages following this post and didn't see an answer. I have the same board, revision 4, bios F3, and I'm having the same problem where I change the NB frequency in the bios, but CPU-Z reveals no change.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marked427*
> 
> Hello active members,
> 
> I am hoping for a little help with an issue I am experiencing.
> 
> First my system:
> fx 8350
> 990fxa ud3 rev.4 bios f3
> win 10 pro 64bit
> 290x
> 2x4gb
> 750w bronze plus
> 
> Issue is with the north bridge multiplier. The bios allows me to change the frequency but, when loaded it is running at the default frequency of 2200mhz. Now I can change the frequency by changing the FSB but, I have never been a fan of this method because it affects all components. This seems to be a glitch in the bios and which I have tried to resolve by reflashing the bios back to f1 and back to f3.
> 
> In addition, there was a time that the bios allowed to to change the CPU/NB multiplier but, at some point it whacked out. All other system multipliers are un affected and working properly...just the CPU/NB.
> 
> Does anyone have insight or advise?


Are you trying the 2400 CPU-NB? It is whacky.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Are you trying the 2400 CPU-NB? It is whacky.


I have my ref clock set at 234. Flailschlamp mentioned that the resulting NB overclock would not add any performance b/c my ram only runs at 15**. I don't know if the NB is hurting anything, but I tried to change the NB frequency down from 2200 to 1800 and 2000 in the bios. After those changes, it always reported as 2574 in CPU-Z which was identical to the the 2200 frequency (11x234). I was able to turn the HT clock down, it was originally 234 x 13 = 3042 (if I remember right) down to 2574. The NB is reading (234 x 11) the same as the HT clock in CPU-Z no matter what I change in NB frequency.

Off topic, but any idea why Gigabyte doesn't just use a multiplier for HT and NB? It seems a little over-complicated to me that it's always displayed as a frequency.


----------



## mus1mus

Post some screenshots CPU-Z and HWinfo.

He is right actually. Unless you are actually OC'ing the RAM or wanting 2400, you shouldn't touch CPU-NB. It does little in daily use. Benchmarking, yes-you can.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Post some screenshots CPU-Z and HWinfo.
> 
> He is right actually. Unless you are actually OC'ing the RAM or wanting 2400, you shouldn't touch CPU-NB. It does little in daily use. Benchmarking, yes-you can.


I do want to overclock my ram, but I thought I ought to be able to turn down my NB too.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I do want to overclock my ram, but I thought I ought to be able to turn down my NB too.


hmm. What kit is the RAM?

Please follow up with BIOS SS.

FAT32 USB Drive. F12 in BIOS.


----------



## bigdayve

Never taken a Bios SS. Perfect instructions.

Ram is listed in the rig Kingston HyperX Blu


----------



## mus1mus

Okay, That is indeed weird.

Can we go and try restarting the OC?

First off, Power Off the System. Pull the CMOS Battery if you can. Or Reset the bios by shorting the CLRCMOS pins on the mobo. Leaveit off for about 20 secs before putting it back on. While you are doing that, please check the RAM sticks are installed one slot after the other.

Once in the BIOS, check for the date,time, etc. (Windows and some apps get borked by unset time.

Disable Turbo Boost, CoolnQuiet, SVM, and the rest as in your SS. and reboot back to the BIOS.

Capture all the SS for OC oriented settings in there.


----------



## bigdayve

Ughhh, what a pain. I have a lot of profiles saved in my bios. I'll need to back them up before I clear the cmos. I'll get back to you.


----------



## bigdayve

Is there an important reason to turn down the NB clock? It doesn't seem to be hurting my stability.


----------



## mus1mus

Don't worry, those Profiles will stay.

We'll try OCing anew though.


----------



## reaver83

So, is it okay for me to join your group and maybe ask a few questions on the 9-series Chipsets?


----------



## Mega Man

Of course, why wouldn't it be!


----------



## reaver83

cause mine is a 970 chipset, and a little different, and has the severe heat issues that come with having the lesser NB heatsink. Mine is the GA-970A-D3 board, which seems like a great board, til it shuts down from the NB getting so hot. When running though, performance is great! only thing I was thinking is if I can get my hands on a 990FXA Heatpipe setup, this would be the perfect board. I am the 2nd owner, my brother upgraded from this when it wouldn't stay running in his. I've managed to get the shutdown times to a minimum, but still having issues. At times, the NB (according to the newest version of HWMonitor) on TMPIN2 spikes to 72C!!!


----------



## bigdayve

I'm sure you can find help here, but there is this club too: http://www.overclock.net/t/1048912/official-gigabyte-ga-990xa-970a-series-owners-club-help-thread-fx-8350-support-added


----------



## reaver83

actually, other than someone selling me the 990FXA heatsink, thats the best help I could get. just hope it's not people complaining and not actually getting stuff done over there. Thanks man, pointed in the right direction is the best way to start.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> actually, other than someone selling me the 990FXA heatsink, thats the best help I could get. just hope it's not people complaining and not actually getting stuff done over there. Thanks man, pointed in the right direction is the best way to start.


No reason not to join both


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Okay, That is indeed weird.
> 
> Can we go and try restarting the OC?
> 
> First off, Power Off the System. Pull the CMOS Battery if you can. Or Reset the bios by shorting the CLRCMOS pins on the mobo. Leaveit off for about 20 secs before putting it back on. While you are doing that, please check the RAM sticks are installed one slot after the other.
> 
> Once in the BIOS, check for the date,time, etc. (Windows and some apps get borked by unset time.
> 
> Disable Turbo Boost, CoolnQuiet, SVM, and the rest as in your SS. and reboot back to the BIOS.
> 
> Capture all the SS for OC oriented settings in there.


No change, I can't change the NB frequency/multiplier after resetting the CMOS. I know pulling the battery worked b/c the bios displayed a message saying it was reset.

Thanks for your help figuring this out.

Here are the screens:

Note: HT actually set to 2200 in Bios not "2400" as pictured.


----------



## mus1mus

Try FSB at 229
Memory at 2133
CPU-NB should be 2500is
HT Link as well
Memory Voltage at 1.65V
CPU-NB Voltage at 1.25

Set the core to whatever you like. Verify that it accepts the memory clock.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Try FSB at 229
> Memory at 2133
> CPU-NB should be 2500is
> HT Link as well
> Memory Voltage at 1.65V
> CPU-NB Voltage at 1.25
> 
> Set the core to whatever you like. Verify that it accepts the memory clock.


My lowly ddr 1333 won't be stable at 2133. Maybe if I reset the timings, but that speed sounds extreme.

I can't get the NB multi to budge. I could still try resetting the cmos via jumper, but I don't think it would any different than changing the battery. Maybe the mobo is defective or I damaged it in an overclock. No idea.

It seems you're saying that 2500ish NB is preferred over 2574. That right?


----------



## mus1mus

Nope. Just trying it out on the memory first. If that kit can go 2133. Did it even boot up at 2133-9-11-10 1.684? If it can boot,

Try 267 and lower the multis


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Nope. Just trying it out on the memory first. If that kit can go 2133. Did it even boot up at 2133-9-11-10 1.684? If it can boot,
> 
> Try 267 and lower the multis


I was able to tease this out; it's unstable b/c display driver is crashing and errors are popping up. 2133-9-11-29 @ 1.67volts did not come close to booting. I know my sweet spot for auto latency settings (and a tiny bit better) is right around 234. 235 is unstable no matter what I've done to voltages, although I've never pushed it past 1.65 before now.

I can't go to 267 FSB because I can't lower the NB multi.


----------



## mus1mus

235 for 1866 then?


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 235 for 1866 then?


1866 seems plausible, I'll have to do some benchmarks to see if it's worth fine tuning. I have a lot of voltages way higher than I'm used to and up the timings /:

Running a quick burn test to check preliminary stability.

Any thoughts on that NB multi that is stuck?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> cause mine is a 970 chipset, and a little different, and has the severe heat issues that come with having the lesser NB heatsink. Mine is the GA-970A-D3 board, which seems like a great board, til it shuts down from the NB getting so hot. When running though, performance is great! only thing I was thinking is if I can get my hands on a 990FXA Heatpipe setup, this would be the perfect board. I am the 2nd owner, my brother upgraded from this when it wouldn't stay running in his. I've managed to get the shutdown times to a minimum, but still having issues. At times, the NB (according to the newest version of HWMonitor) on TMPIN2 spikes to 72C!!!


i would try changing tim and adding a fan


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> 1866 seems plausible, I'll have to do some benchmarks to see if it's worth fine tuning. I have a lot of voltages way higher than I'm used to and up the timings /:
> 
> Running a quick burn test to check preliminary stability.
> 
> Any thoughts on that NB multi that is stuck?


That is very weird actually. Maybe flash a BIOS?


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That is very weird actually. Maybe flash a BIOS?


I did use @bios to flash to the newest bios version. I've heard that program is buggy. Maybe I'll try flashing it the old fashioned way if I find I have instability because of the NB frequency.

Increasing the memory speed to 1866 should improve NB stability, right?

Edit: scratch that, 1333 and 1866 should be equally stable with a NB clock of 25**. 1866 is likely to perform better than 1333 depending on latency timing. The benefit of turning down my stuck NB multi would be decreased heat on the CPU die, VRM, etc. with minimal loss of performance. Does that sound right anyone?


----------



## mcmilk11

hi guys i have a problem and i don't know how to solve it, i try all!

my mobo it's Gigabyte 990FXA UD3, so i always have problem with memory ram, i have 4x4GB, 2 Corsairs and 2 Crucial in dual channel, so the system only detect of my 16 GB but i can use only 7.9.

So i try doing this:

- flas the CMOS
-Default settings in bios
- updated to the latest bios
-clean with contact cleaner the ram slots and de cpu slots,
-none of the pins of the processor are bad

So then of that i bougth 16GB 2x8GB Corsair CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10 but i still having the same proble, i think that is because its from diffrent brand, but no.

So can you help me please with 4 sticks or the 2 news i have the same amount of usable ram, 7.9 GB.

I'm using Windows 10 64 bits.

Sorry for my bad english and thanks for your help.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcmilk11*
> 
> hi guys i have a problem and i don't know how to solve it, i try all!
> 
> my mobo it's Gigabyte 990FXA UD3, so i always have problem with memory ram, i have 4x4GB, 2 Corsairs and 2 Crucial in dual channel, so the system only detect of my 16 GB but i can use only 7.9.
> 
> So i try doing this:
> 
> - flas the CMOS
> -Default settings in bios
> - updated to the latest bios
> -clean with contact cleaner the ram slots and de cpu slots,
> -none of the pins of the processor are bad
> 
> So then of that i bougth 16GB 2x8GB Corsair CMZ16GX3M2A1600C10 but i still having the same proble, i think that is because its from diffrent brand, but no.
> 
> So can you help me please with 4 sticks or the 2 news i have the same amount of usable ram, 7.9 GB.
> 
> I'm using Windows 10 64 bits.
> 
> Sorry for my bad english and thanks for your help.


I had the same issue. Its quite simple to solve actually, go to run and type msconfig. Than go to boot and advanced options, than you should be able to select the number of processors and maximum memory. Set the maximum for processors and check off the maximum memory so it looks like this:


----------



## Mega Man

i would start with reseating the ram ( remove them, check for hairs, dust. ect )


----------



## hurricane28

This problem can have numerous causes but i would check the Windows setting first, 9 times out of 10 its that Windows setting.


----------



## noobdown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> That is very weird actually. Maybe flash a BIOS?
> 
> 
> 
> I did use @bios to flash to the newest bios version. I've heard that program is buggy. Maybe I'll try flashing it the old fashioned way if I find I have instability because of the NB frequency. Why is core unlock and cpu core control enabled?
> 
> Increasing the memory speed to 1866 should improve NB stability, right?
> 
> Edit: scratch that, 1333 and 1866 should be equally stable with a NB clock of 25**. 1866 is likely to perform better than 1333 depending on latency timing. The benefit of turning down my stuck NB multi would be decreased heat on the CPU die, VRM, etc. with minimal loss of performance. Does that sound right anyone?
Click to expand...

i cant remeber havent seen my bios in a while.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Never taken a Bios SS. Perfect instructions.
> 
> Ram is listed in the rig Kingston HyperX Blu


----------



## noobdown

Why is core control and cpu unlocked enabled?


----------



## Mega Man

That may cause issues it messed with mine when I tried it


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That may cause issues it messed with mine when I tried it


I'm not sure what you mean.


----------



## Mega Man

Leaving cpu unlock enabled causes issues with *fx* cpu I me core control can be OK some mobos it defaults to auto others enabled, some people like to limit the cores enabled


----------



## bigdayve

So I should probably disable "CPU Unlock". It's not going to disable cores if I disable it, and it's not going to do any good enabled because all cores are enabled by default on my 8320e.

If I remember correctly, I kept "CPU Core Control" on automatic because the other options would have disabled some of my cores.


----------



## Mega Man

1)Correct, and 2)iirc


----------



## qwerty drive

What is a good setting for LLC for overclocking, my bios has the option for AUTO, NORMAL, MEDIUM, LOW, EXTREME.
I currently have it set to Medium


----------



## nomador22

Greetings club!

I just upgraded to an FX8350 from a Phenom II x4 955BE, but after installing I get no boot, no bios, no image, no beep.
Mobo is UD3 v1 with the F14e bios. I tried hard resetting the bios (power off, remove battery) but the problem persists..
How screwed am I?


----------



## mus1mus

Look for the BIOS that added support for FX chips.


----------



## nomador22

I have a later bios than the one enabling FX chips, should I downgrade to that specific one ? IIRC the F9 bios enables the AM3+ on my mobo, I have it flashed it to F14e.


----------



## mus1mus

AM3+ is the socket. Try the latest that you can find. Flash the board with the Phenom on it.

If that doesn't work, then we will go the way that goes, "is the CPU new?"


----------



## nomador22

As I said, the bios is the latest one available, It does support FX chips...
Yes, the FX chip is brand new, just out of the box, and I installed it correctly 100%.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nomador22*
> 
> As I said, the bios is the latest one available, It does support FX chips...
> Yes, the FX chip is brand new, just out of the box, and I installed it correctly 100%.


There you have it. Try the board with the Phenom. If that CPU works on that board, RMA the CPU. There should not be a reason not to. It may be a dead one.


----------



## nomador22

Aw crap... Looks like I'll have to wait until tomorrow to RMA it then.. Thanks for your help, I'll keep monitoring the thread in case any fellow clubmen have any other ideas until then.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nomador22*
> 
> Aw crap... Looks like I'll have to wait until tomorrow to RMA it then.. Thanks for your help, I'll keep monitoring the thread in case any fellow clubmen have any other ideas until then.


No worries man. While waiting, you can also try flashing some other BIOS and see if you can get it to work.







just make sure the mobo is safe


----------



## nomador22

OK, when I took out the phenom and hard resetted the bios , the phenom's overclocked settings were saved (strangely enough). I reinstalled the phenom reverted the bios settings to "fail safe defaults" and installed the FX, everything works now... phew

EDIT : Aaaand It crashes on windows boot... the adventure continues..


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nomador22*
> 
> OK, when I took out the phenom and hard resetted the bios , the phenom's overclocked settings were saved (strangely enough). I reinstalled the phenom reverted the bios settings to "fail safe defaults" and installed the FX, everything works now... phew


Wheeew! That's a life saver!

Congrats and good job!


----------



## Mega Man

If you have a rev 1 over volt the cpu vcore. Rev1 had no llc so you need to compensate I would start with 1.45v (turbo on? ) at stock otherwise .5v above stock vid, may need more...


----------



## Psyonicar

Hey guys, I need your help.

990FXA UD3 Version 4
AMD FX8350 with a Bequiet 120mm Cooler Black Rock
16GB DDR3 Corsair (i think, but no problems with the RAM)
Palit 980GTX 4GB
500GB Samsung SSD
3x 128GB Radeon R7 SSD
4TB WD HDD
Thermaltake Paris 650W
Win 10

System running fine so far since one year.

But i cant get my FX8350 overcklocked to more than 4,3Ghz.
I have overclocked other systems in the past, with good results, also my 980 is overclocked quiet heavily and its working perfectly.

So, i tried to raise the voltage slightly and also raise the multiplier with no good results, i get bluescreens on win start up.

My max temp at normal clock speed idles out at around 55-58 °C so i think there is some muscle left in that cpu.

Thank you already.


----------



## LazarusIV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyonicar*
> 
> Hey guys, I need your help.
> 
> 990FXA UD3 Version 4
> AMD FX8350 with a Bequiet 120mm Cooler Black Rock
> 16GB DDR3 Corsair (i think, but no problems with the RAM)
> Palit 980GTX 4GB
> 500GB Samsung SSD
> 3x 128GB Radeon R7 SSD
> 4TB WD HDD
> Thermaltake Paris 650W
> Win 10
> 
> System running fine so far since one year.
> 
> But i cant get my FX8350 overcklocked to more than 4,3Ghz.
> I have overclocked other systems in the past, with good results, also my 980 is overclocked quiet heavily and its working perfectly.
> 
> So, i tried to raise the voltage slightly and also raise the multiplier with no good results, i get bluescreens on win start up.
> 
> My max temp at normal clock speed idles out at around 55-58 °C so i think there is some muscle left in that cpu.
> 
> Thank you already.


Could be the VRMs on that board need more cooling? That board is known to have sub par cooling on the VRMs... If you've got an extra fan, point it at the VRM heatsink (to the left of the socket I believe) and see if that buys you any more MHz.


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Psyonicar*
> 
> Hey guys, I need your help.
> 
> 990FXA UD3 Version 4
> AMD FX8350 with a Bequiet 120mm Cooler Black Rock
> 16GB DDR3 Corsair (i think, but no problems with the RAM)
> Palit 980GTX 4GB
> 500GB Samsung SSD
> 3x 128GB Radeon R7 SSD
> 4TB WD HDD
> Thermaltake Paris 650W
> Win 10
> 
> System running fine so far since one year.
> 
> But i cant get my FX8350 overcklocked to more than 4,3Ghz.
> I have overclocked other systems in the past, with good results, also my 980 is overclocked quiet heavily and its working perfectly.
> 
> So, i tried to raise the voltage slightly and also raise the multiplier with no good results, i get bluescreens on win start up.
> 
> My max temp at normal clock speed idles out at around 55-58 °C so i think there is some muscle left in that cpu.
> 
> Thank you already.


I believe 990FXA UD3 Version 4 has LLC, What are your BIOS settings on LLC?


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Psyonicar*
> 
> Hey guys, I need your help.
> 
> 990FXA UD3 Version 4
> AMD FX8350 with a Bequiet 120mm Cooler Black Rock
> 16GB DDR3 Corsair (i think, but no problems with the RAM)
> Palit 980GTX 4GB
> 500GB Samsung SSD
> 3x 128GB Radeon R7 SSD
> 4TB WD HDD
> Thermaltake Paris 650W
> Win 10
> 
> System running fine so far since one year.
> 
> But i cant get my FX8350 overcklocked to more than 4,3Ghz.
> I have overclocked other systems in the past, with good results, also my 980 is overclocked quiet heavily and its working perfectly.
> 
> So, i tried to raise the voltage slightly and also raise the multiplier with no good results, i get bluescreens on win start up.
> 
> My max temp at normal clock speed idles out at around 55-58 °C so i think there is some muscle left in that cpu.
> 
> Thank you already.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe 990FXA UD3 Version 4 has LLC, What are your BIOS settings on LLC?
Click to expand...

Question is, What Voltage are we talking about when he tries to OC more?


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Psyonicar*
> 
> Hey guys, I need your help.
> 
> 990FXA UD3 Version 4
> AMD FX8350 with a Bequiet 120mm Cooler Black Rock
> 16GB DDR3 Corsair (i think, but no problems with the RAM)
> Palit 980GTX 4GB
> 500GB Samsung SSD
> 3x 128GB Radeon R7 SSD
> 4TB WD HDD
> Thermaltake Paris 650W
> Win 10
> 
> System running fine so far since one year.
> 
> But i cant get my FX8350 overcklocked to more than 4,3Ghz.
> I have overclocked other systems in the past, with good results, also my 980 is overclocked quiet heavily and its working perfectly.
> 
> So, i tried to raise the voltage slightly and also raise the multiplier with no good results, i get bluescreens on win start up.
> 
> My max temp at normal clock speed idles out at around 55-58 °C so i think there is some muscle left in that cpu.
> 
> Thank you already.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe 990FXA UD3 Version 4 has LLC, What are your BIOS settings on LLC?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Question is, What Voltage are we talking about when he tries to OC more?
Click to expand...

If it's the cooler I'm thinking of, he will have a hard time going much further due to heat. I think its only rated at 130 watts, please correct me if I am mistaken however.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Psyonicar*
> 
> Hey guys, I need your help.
> 
> 990FXA UD3 Version 4
> AMD FX8350 with a Bequiet 120mm Cooler Black Rock
> 16GB DDR3 Corsair (i think, but no problems with the RAM)
> Palit 980GTX 4GB
> 500GB Samsung SSD
> 3x 128GB Radeon R7 SSD
> 4TB WD HDD
> Thermaltake Paris 650W
> Win 10
> 
> System running fine so far since one year.
> 
> But i cant get my FX8350 overcklocked to more than 4,3Ghz.
> I have overclocked other systems in the past, with good results, also my 980 is overclocked quiet heavily and its working perfectly.
> 
> So, i tried to raise the voltage slightly and also raise the multiplier with no good results, i get bluescreens on win start up.
> 
> My max temp at normal clock speed idles out at around 55-58 °C so i think there is some muscle left in that cpu.
> 
> Thank you already.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe 990FXA UD3 Version 4 has LLC, What are your BIOS settings on LLC?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Question is, What Voltage are we talking about when he tries to OC more?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If it's the cooler I'm thinking of, he will have a hard time going much further due to heat. I think its only rated at 130 watts, please correct me if I am mistaken however.
Click to expand...

They quote the line capable of 250W!

http://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler

How's that for an Air Cooler?









And his temps show.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Psyonicar*
> 
> Hey guys, I need your help.
> 
> 990FXA UD3 Version 4
> AMD FX8350 with a Bequiet 120mm Cooler Black Rock
> 16GB DDR3 Corsair (i think, but no problems with the RAM)
> Palit 980GTX 4GB
> 500GB Samsung SSD
> 3x 128GB Radeon R7 SSD
> 4TB WD HDD
> Thermaltake Paris 650W
> Win 10
> 
> System running fine so far since one year.
> 
> But i cant get my FX8350 overcklocked to more than 4,3Ghz.
> I have overclocked other systems in the past, with good results, also my 980 is overclocked quiet heavily and its working perfectly.
> 
> So, i tried to raise the voltage slightly and also raise the multiplier with no good results, i get bluescreens on win start up.
> 
> My max temp at normal clock speed idles out at around 55-58 °C so i think there is some muscle left in that cpu.
> 
> Thank you already.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe 990FXA UD3 Version 4 has LLC, What are your BIOS settings on LLC?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Question is, What Voltage are we talking about when he tries to OC more?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If it's the cooler I'm thinking of, he will have a hard time going much further due to heat. I think its only rated at 130 watts, please correct me if I am mistaken however.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They quote the line capable of 250W!
> 
> http://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler
> 
> How's that for an Air Cooler?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And his temps show.
Click to expand...

AH ok I was mistakenly thinking of this one http://www.eteknix.com/quiet-pure-rock-120mm-cpu-cooler-review/


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Psyonicar*
> 
> Hey guys, I need your help.
> 
> 990FXA UD3 Version 4
> AMD FX8350 with a Bequiet 120mm Cooler Black Rock
> 16GB DDR3 Corsair (i think, but no problems with the RAM)
> Palit 980GTX 4GB
> 500GB Samsung SSD
> 3x 128GB Radeon R7 SSD
> 4TB WD HDD
> Thermaltake Paris 650W
> Win 10
> 
> System running fine so far since one year.
> 
> But i cant get my FX8350 overcklocked to more than 4,3Ghz.
> I have overclocked other systems in the past, with good results, also my 980 is overclocked quiet heavily and its working perfectly.
> 
> So, i tried to raise the voltage slightly and also raise the multiplier with no good results, i get bluescreens on win start up.
> 
> My max temp at normal clock speed idles out at around 55-58 °C so i think there is some muscle left in that cpu.
> 
> Thank you already.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe 990FXA UD3 Version 4 has LLC, What are your BIOS settings on LLC?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Question is, What Voltage are we talking about when he tries to OC more?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If it's the cooler I'm thinking of, he will have a hard time going much further due to heat. I think its only rated at 130 watts, please correct me if I am mistaken however.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They quote the line capable of 250W!
> 
> http://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler
> 
> How's that for an Air Cooler?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And his temps show.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> AH ok I was mistakenly thinking of this one http://www.eteknix.com/quiet-pure-rock-120mm-cpu-cooler-review/
Click to expand...

Still, we know where Aircoolers stack up with these chips.

His board too, is the limiting factor.

We are still not talking about ambient temps as well.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nomador22*
> 
> OK, when I took out the phenom and hard resetted the bios , the phenom's overclocked settings were saved (strangely enough). I reinstalled the phenom reverted the bios settings to "fail safe defaults" and installed the FX, everything works now... phew
> 
> EDIT : Aaaand It crashes on windows boot... the adventure continues..


If that ever happens again pull the cmos battery and do a real, hard bios reset. The thing just went a little wonky on you. On a Mac back in the day you did something called "zapping the PRAM".


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you have a rev 1 over volt the cpu vcore. Rev1 had no llc so you need to compensate I would start with 1.45v (turbo on? ) at stock otherwise .5v above stock vid, may need more...


You mean .05 and not .5 correct? A half a volt and his cpu would basically melt.


----------



## Mega Man

No I don't I mean 0.5v the rev1 has a large voltage drop


----------



## jacqlittle

I think like @chrisjames61 that you mean 0.05V not 0.5V

Does your VCore goes down from 1.45V to 0.95V? I don't trust it... (unless it's throttling)

From 1.45V to 1.4V (-0.05V) is more credible...


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No I don't I mean 0.5v the rev1 has a large voltage drop


A full half volt? That would be over a third of your vcore. If you set your vcore to 1.3 and added .5 that would give you 1.8. That is crazy high.


----------



## Mega Man

Again the Rev 1s HAVE NO LLC and EXCESSIVELY HIGH v droop.

That said I said I would START THERE not FINNISH which seems to be the Part you are not understanding you need to be able to boot into Windows and find your vdroop, I don't know what that is but I know 1.8v will cover it and it won't kill your chip. Iirc v droop is around .3 or .4v, now that said I could be WRONG

But all I remember is everyone with a rev 1 complaining about no llc and HEAVY v droop

Not only do you have to compensate for no llc (0.1v or so) but also vdroop from your normal idle vcore (again, from memory 0.3v )

(Total of approx.0.4v)


----------



## Psyonicar

Hey guys, the problem is solved, i was just to scared to raise the vcore a bit more. So now iam stable at 4,5Ghz @ 1,488V


----------



## qwerty drive

Anybody had any Delay issue with there Gigabyte boards After Pressing Power Button.?

After I press it, it turns on very briefly for about a second, then goes silent for around 5 secs before turning on normally, it's been happening only the past few days..Usually the PC will boot straight away after turning on but now i get this weird 5 second Delay

Already tried disconnecting the HDD's and booting also tried using a different PSU but still have the 5 second Delay


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> Anybody had any Delay issue with there Gigabyte boards After Pressing Power Button.?
> 
> After I press it, it turns on very briefly for about a second, then goes silent for around 5 secs before turning on normally, it's been happening only the past few days..Usually the PC will boot straight away after turning on but now i get this weird 5 second Delay
> 
> Already tried disconnecting the HDD's and booting also tried using a different PSU but still have the 5 second Delay


Did you change your overclock and turn turbo off?

If so, turn turbo back on and set it to the same as your overclock.

Old problem. It was pages and pages ago.

Core Performance Boost, set to Auto. I call it Turbo because I am old enough to remember Turbo buttons on PCs.


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Did you change your overclock and turn turbo off?
> 
> If so, turn turbo back on and set it to the same as your overclock.
> 
> Old problem. It was pages and pages ago.
> 
> Core Performance Boost, set to Auto. I call it Turbo because I am old enough to remember Turbo buttons on PCs.


I had Turbo Disabled before and the CPU manually overclocked and it seemed to work without this issue. But i did a good old bios reset and it seems to be booting normally now.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> I had Turbo Disabled before and the CPU manually overclocked and it seemed to work without this issue. But i did a good old bios reset and it seems to be booting normally now.


Just for reference - http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/7440_30#post_20985413


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Just for reference - http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/7440_30#post_20985413


It's all good now just did a bios reset then disabled core turbo again and manually changed the multiplier, CPU vcore and LLC and no more cold boot delay.


----------



## UncleManuel

Hi there!

Is the BIOS update to version FC recommended or is FB just fine? FB indicates that I have the revision 3 of this MB...


----------



## UncleManuel

Ok, found it! FC is needed for the Centurion CPUs (FX-9XXX)...








http://www.overclock.net/t/1599043/does-the-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-ud5-rev-3-support-the-fx-9590/0_20#post_25123128


----------



## UncleManuel

pah, triple post!
















My new discovery: It's the feature "CPU Unlock" (Advanced CPU Core Settings) which caused the BIOS double & cold starts. I've ramped my FX-8320 up to 4,4 GHz (22x200) for starters and CPU Turbo is disabled. It was definitely the "CPU Unlock" feature wich caused the problems with my MB...


----------



## Gringo007

Kuddos to UncleManuel. Disabling the "CPU Unlock" fixed my dual boot on cold start and off-and-on restart.
Yesterday I bought the Noctua NH-D15 and overclocked my FX-6300 to stable 4.51 GHz on GB 990-FXA UD-5 Rev.3. I am really happy with the result and the temps but that dual boot was killing my joy. Now everything is working as it should. I bet that dual boot is not only bad for the mechanical HDD or SSD, but for the whole system as a whole, mainly the mobo, since it was happening in a short period of time.

Some other things that I've done, since I don't know if this only may fix the issue for some:

1. All power-saving stuff is switched off. Only HPM, virtualisation and the thing about logical cores per unit is left untouched.
2. Turned the Turbo Boos back to Auto and set it to the same CPB Ratio multiplier as the one of the main frequency. 21.5 in my case, since I clocked the BCLK to 210.
3. Switched Boot BIOS to Legacy only and not UEFI and Legacy (I am on Windows 10 64bit Pro).
4. Made sure that the boot is initialized from my main OS hard disk, that's the SSD in my case.

5. That is optional as I am not sure where I saw it. I wasn't able to locate it. But it was a setting about CPU clock on start. In my case it was set to 3.5 Ghz on start, and when Windows loads it would apply the clock setting to 4.5 in my case. I take it as a last resort to people who have pushed the system too far and need last chance to make it into BIOS, which I think is better than playing with the BIOS battery. So yeah, that may too add to dual BIOS boot, I think.

I've went through a number of posts since yesterday. I didn't see anyone else saying a thing about the CPU unlock. Neither Gigabyte. For my future builds I will have one thing in mind about them. Maybe I'll go with Asus or ASRock, since people say they release new BIOS versions like mad. And the last one for the UD-5 rev3 is from 2013, and it's one of the big AM3+ Mobos of Gigabyte...


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gringo007*
> 
> Kuddos to UncleManuel. Disabling the "CPU Unlock" fixed my dual boot on cold start and off-and-on restart.
> Yesterday I bought the Noctua NH-D15 and overclocked my FX-6300 to stable 4.51 GHz on GB 990-FXA UD-5 Rev.3. I am really happy with the result and the temps but that dual boot was killing my joy. Now everything is working as it should. I bet that dual boot is not only bad for the mechanical HDD or SSD, but for the whole system as a whole, mainly the mobo, since it was happening in a short period of time.


What Vcore are you using for 4.5.? I have been able to get away with 1.350v, so far it seems stable


----------



## Gringo007

Well, the first thing is I have the bios with the "offset" (if I got the name right) voltage settings. So I cannot determine my own voltage. With that in mind I have set it to +0.075 volts and the fluctuation limit to Extreme. Under max load in Prime95 the vcore isn't getting over 1.456, but the temps go at 41 C max. So I think this is good, if someone else things the opposite pls share. Tested for 1 hour max in Prime95. I don't know if that is considered as good clock setting for this processor. I've also clocked the BCLK slightly to 210 from 200.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gringo007*
> 
> Well, the first thing is I have the bios with the "offset" (if I got the name right) voltage settings. So I cannot determine my own voltage. With that in mind I have set it to +0.075 volts and the fluctuation limit to Extreme. Under max load in Prime95 the vcore isn't getting over 1.456, but the temps go at 41 C max. So I think this is good, if someone else things the opposite pls share. Tested for 1 hour max in Prime95. I don't know if that is considered as good clock setting for this processor. I've also clocked the BCLK slightly to 210 from 200.


The Vcore when setup using OffSet Voltage is easily calculated.
DL HWInfo64 (free)
Near the top you should find *your* chips factory stock Vcore value listed as "Core #0 VID"
Here's what mine looks like (1.475v)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Make sure you read the "Maximum" header if C&Q is enabled.

Simply add this CPU VID value to your OffSet used in Bios and this is what Vcore is set to in Bios.
VDroop and LLC settings can/will affect what you see for a Vcore in Windows.

As far as testing goes, one hour of Prime95 is hardly even a warm up IMHO.
24 hour Prime95+ stable is all I go run!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gringo007*
> 
> Kuddos to UncleManuel. Disabling the "CPU Unlock" fixed my dual boot on cold start and off-and-on restart.
> Yesterday I bought the Noctua NH-D15 and overclocked my FX-6300 to stable 4.51 GHz on GB 990-FXA UD-5 Rev.3. I am really happy with the result and the temps but that dual boot was killing my joy. Now everything is working as it should. I bet that dual boot is not only bad for the mechanical HDD or SSD, but for the whole system as a whole, mainly the mobo, since it was happening in a short period of time.
> 
> Some other things that I've done, since I don't know if this only may fix the issue for some:
> 
> 1. All power-saving stuff is switched off. Only HPM, virtualisation and the thing about logical cores per unit is left untouched.
> 2. Turned the Turbo Boos back to Auto and set it to the same CPB Ratio multiplier as the one of the main frequency. 21.5 in my case, since I clocked the BCLK to 210.
> 3. Switched Boot BIOS to Legacy only and not UEFI and Legacy (I am on Windows 10 64bit Pro).
> 4. Made sure that the boot is initialized from my main OS hard disk, that's the SSD in my case.
> 
> 5. That is optional as I am not sure where I saw it. I wasn't able to locate it. But it was a setting about CPU clock on start. In my case it was set to 3.5 Ghz on start, and when Windows loads it would apply the clock setting to 4.5 in my case. I take it as a last resort to people who have pushed the system too far and need last chance to make it into BIOS, which I think is better than playing with the BIOS battery. So yeah, that may too add to dual BIOS boot, I think.
> 
> I've went through a number of posts since yesterday. I didn't see anyone else saying a thing about the CPU unlock. Neither Gigabyte. For my future builds I will have one thing in mind about them. Maybe I'll go with Asus or ASRock, since people say they release new BIOS versions like mad. And the last one for the UD-5 rev3 is from 2013, and it's one of the big AM3+ Mobos of Gigabyte...


1.

Turn off virtualization unless you use it. It hurts perf.

2

Why would you not want uefi?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UncleManuel*
> 
> pah, triple post!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My new discovery: It's the feature "CPU Unlock" (Advanced CPU Core Settings) which caused the BIOS double & cold starts. I've ramped my FX-8320 up to 4,4 GHz (22x200) for starters and CPU Turbo is disabled. It was definitely the "CPU Unlock" feature wich caused the problems with my MB...


The incompetence of gigabyte making a good working bios is well established by now...

I really really dislike their bios when overclocking. When i want to set an overclock i can't even read my overclock properly and i have calculate how fast my CPU and NB speed is.. RAM speeds seems fine though..

As for overclocking capability's its okay but my Sabertooth is a much more stable board overall. I guess every board has its pros and cons. But still considering all the cons of the Sabertooth and Gigabyte G1 gaming motherboard i still prefer my G1 over the Sabertooth because of its better aesthetics, much much better audio and better layout of the board. But if you are an overclocker you would be better of with the Sabertooth as its an better overclocking board and can handle almost anything you throw at it, at least that is my experience with it. I use my machine more for video editing and gaming and no longer for high overclocks anymore so i am better off with the 1 gaming. I guess it all depends on your preferences and how you want to use your system.


----------



## hurricane28

I found this nice article on anandtech which makes it even harder to determine if i rather would go water or air lol

http://www.anandtech.com/show/9415/top-tier-cpu-air-coolers-9way-roundup-review

Seems like Noctua NH-D15 and the Reeven okeanos are the best choices considering the noise and thermal. I highly doubt that any water cooler can even come close to this kind of performance/noise ratio.


----------



## Mega Man

sure mine can i bet the h220x2 is beating that as well


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sure mine can i bet the h220x2 is beating that as well


I meant AIO's and you also have to take the price in to consideration as well.. you obviously cannot compare an around the 100 euro/dollar cooler to an full custom water loop which costs 5 times that amount..

I don't know much about the h220x2 and its relatively new and couldn't find any review of it yet. Its the most expensive AIO cooler i can find so it better perform up to its price. Cooler Master is also releasing a new cooler but that can take a while because they have had some difficulty.
I would like to see some reviews on them and than i maybe decide which is best for me.


----------



## Mega Man

H22x2 is not a clc.


----------



## hurricane28

It comes pre-filled so its an clc but its not an ordinary cld because you can expand it.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> It comes pre-filled so its an clc but its not an ordinary cld because you can expand it.


Its an upgradable AIO that looks and performs like a custom kits apparently (yerah right








)









"Compared to previous generations, the new "X2" series of CPU coolers represents the culmination of Swiftech's efforts to offer upgradable AIO's that look and perform like custom kits, while preserving and improving upon the characteristics that have made AIO's so popular today: reasonable cost, superior performance to air cooling, plug-and-play functionalities, and no maintenance. As in previous Swiftech® offerings, this product line remains entirely focused on low to inaudible operating noise with extreme thermal performance"


----------



## Mega Man

Actually it does. Same as the EK predator.


----------



## hurricane28

I am using SIV from Gigabyte and boy what an completely and utterly useless software that is... i connect my CPU fan and one system fan to the motherboard and set an fan profile, every time when i restart windows its gone and i have to set it again... this not only occurs when i did restart but also completely ramdomly, i just set an fan profile to be silent and deliver good cooling but even then the fans start ramp up and down like mad at random times without my CPU is getting hot... very very annoying because the stock cooler is very very loud and the fan makes an very annoying sound..


----------



## MishelLngelo

Does anybody know for sure what TMPIN1, 2 and 3 in AOD stand for on this MB ?


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Does anybody know for sure what TMPIN1, 2 and 3 in AOD stand for on this MB ?


Probably CPU, NB and System temperature


----------



## LAKEINTEL

is it a good idea to update my BIOS?

I have a rev 4 and a OC'd 8320
and windows gave me this BIOS: ver 04.06.05 7/15/13 (F2)

or does it not matter?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LAKEINTEL*
> 
> is it a good idea to update my BIOS?
> 
> I have a rev 4 and a OC'd 8320
> and windows gave me this BIOS: ver 04.06.05 7/15/13 (F2)
> 
> or does it not matter?


Yes, always upgrade to the newest BIOS since there can be fixes.


----------



## Mega Man

That isn't always true.

I always update.

But some don't. Newer bios can affect your oc.

Some believe always update bios,others live by the motto if it ain't broke don't update it.


----------



## hurricane28

Agree but since were on Gigabyte boards which is known for their BIOS issues so its wise to update BOIS in the hope they fixed something.

But agreed, if its working properly there is indeed nor reason for upgrade.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes, always upgrade to the newest BIOS since there can be fixes.


Updating the bios isn't always strictly necessary and it comes with some risk. I would recommend researching what features are available in versions newer than yours. If there is nothing desirable, I wonder how much it would help to update to the newest version. I think it's a best practice to have your files backed up before updating the bios. However, this series of MOBO has many bios features that reduce bios update risks and It was easy for me to flash my bios.


----------



## Mega Man

99% of risk is gone and has been for a long time


----------



## hurricane28

My board seems to be voltage locked.. everything above 1.55 vcore results in no boot at all.. i tried extreme LLC which also results in no boot..

Is there a work around or something? Its not the temps but the voltage that is holding me back now.. vrm's and CPU are well below the max save temp. Never had this before though..

Anyone who knows how to get rid of this?


----------



## Mega Man

yep.

dont buy gigabyte


----------



## hurricane28

haha oh come on man, i am sure you know a way around this.

For the rest i have no complaints to be honest. Its a bit different than an Asus board indeed but its working very well for now.


----------



## Mega Man

Grab some potentiometers and wire and w.e else and volt mod it?


----------



## hurricane28

Yeah, but that's not what i meant.

I mean, is it really a Gigabyte thing? I never heard from it and never had this before on my previous Gigabyte board.

I don't believe the board is broken so..


----------



## LAKEINTEL

I updated the BIOS using qflash but now it freezes whenever I press delete (to reput in my OC settings). Pressing END for qflash does nothing either. Windows works fine, but my OC is gone :/

edit: finally. apparently I have forgotten that you must hold it down forever, or else entering BIOS only partially loads leading to it getting stuck apparently. still, gonna have to look up some stuff but at least cpu Ghz is decent now.


----------



## bigdayve

Any opinions or experience on good ways to cool the UD3 Rev 4.0 VRMs? I currently have my stock AMD CPU cooling fan seated on the VRMs. It works well, but could be better.

I'm considering throwing a 14cm fan to pull on my evo and push on the VRMs. If I do that, should I still keep the AMD fan on the VRMs?

I'm not interested in replacing the heat sink.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Any opinions or experience on good ways to cool the UD3 Rev 4.0 VRMs? I currently have my stock AMD CPU cooling fan seated on the VRMs. It works well, but could be better.
> 
> I'm considering throwing a 14cm fan to pull on my evo and push on the VRMs. If I do that, should I still keep the AMD fan on the VRMs?
> 
> I'm not interested in replacing the heat sink.


If you are not interested in replacing the heat sink, mount a fan over the area.

I replaced the heat sink on my UD3.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Any opinions or experience on good ways to cool the UD3 Rev 4.0 VRMs? I currently have my stock AMD CPU cooling fan seated on the VRMs. It works well, but could be better.
> 
> I'm considering throwing a 14cm fan to pull on my evo and push on the VRMs. If I do that, should I still keep the AMD fan on the VRMs?
> 
> I'm not interested in replacing the heat sink.


I have a 120mm fan blowing on the back side of the motherboard on the vrm's and the CPU socket, temps lowered by 10C! I also have 2 80mm fans blowing on vrm heat sink.


----------



## bigdayve

:thumb:I do have a fan mounted over the VRM heatsink.

How much did the VRM replacement help you out? How much effort and cash to replace?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> If you are not interested in replacing the heat sink, mount a fan over the area.
> 
> I replaced the heat sink on my UD3.


Hur, post pics? I don't know that my old case would accommodate all of that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I have a 120mm fan blowing on the back side of the motherboard on the vrm's and the CPU socket, temps lowered by 10C! I also have 2 80mm fans blowing on vrm heat sink.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> :thumb:I do have a fan mounted over the VRM heatsink.
> 
> How much did the VRM replacement help you out? How much effort and cash to replace?


The heatsink itself wasn't too expensive, had to jury rig some spare fasteners I had laying around to mount it though. As far as the VRM temps, they were so much improved even with whatever overclocks I am running that I don't even bother watching them at all anymore.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> The heatsink itself wasn't too expensive, had to jury rig some spare fasteners I had laying around to mount it though. As far as the VRM temps, they were so much improved even with whatever overclocks I am running that I don't even bother watching them at all anymore.


You're cooling setup looks impressive. What kind of volts and clocks do you have on your 6350? I'm currently at 1.48v and 4.6 ghz on my 8320e. If I could cool the VRM's better I think I could get 4.7 maybe 4.8 without water cooling and energy efficiency features activated.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> You're cooling setup looks impressive. What kind of volts and clocks do you have on your 6350? I'm currently at 1.48v and 4.6 ghz on my 8320e. If I could cool the VRM's better I think I could get 4.7 maybe 4.8 without water cooling and energy efficiency features activated.


For Summer I am at 4.2Ghz and 1.375v.

I think my winter clocks are closer to the voltages and speed you are running. Can't remember off of the top of my head.


----------



## bigdayve

You're running a custom water cooling loop? It seems like you'd be running faster.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> You're running a custom water cooling loop? It seems like you'd be running faster.


Water cooling yes, but I live in a desert and it gets very hot. I only use AC on rare occassions. Like today. It was 85 at 9:30AM this morning...so you can imagine it has only gotten worse.

I've had it at 4.8, 5Ghz stable, but didn't like the temps for 24/7 use. At it is on 24/7. I also run [email protected] when I sleep.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Water cooling yes, but I live in a desert and it gets very hot. I only use AC on rare occassions. Like today. It was 85 at 9:30AM this morning...so you can imagine it has only gotten worse.
> 
> I've had it at 4.8, 5Ghz stable, but didn't like the temps for 24/7 use. At it is on 24/7. I also run [email protected] when I sleep.


Makes sense, I feel bad for your 85 degree temps in the morning! I don't have central air and the area by my PC can get hot. I need to run a stress test on a hot day to see how robust my OC is. I did have quite a bit of headroom (5-10 degrees C on VRM and CPU if I remember right) at my setting I mentioned before when it was 68F... I wonder how it would respond to 85F.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> :thumb:I do have a fan mounted over the VRM heatsink.
> 
> How much did the VRM replacement help you out? How much effort and cash to replace?
> Hur, post pics? I don't know that my old case would accommodate all of that.




sorry dude, for some reason i can't upload pictures anymore so i can't show you the back side of my case..

I have this multiple times now, i am going to report this because its very annoying when i can't upload any pictures.

But its nothing special, its just a 120mm fan blowing on the back side of my socket.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> 
> 
> sorry dude, for some reason i can't upload pictures anymore so i can't show you the back side of my case..
> 
> I have this multiple times now, i am going to report this because its very annoying when i can't upload any pictures.
> 
> But its nothing special, its just a 120mm fan blowing on the back side of my socket.


Nice Pic. How did you seat those 80mm fans? it looks like one of them is not running/running much slower than the other in the pic


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Nice Pic. How did you seat those 80mm fans? it looks like one of them is not running/running much slower than the other in the pic


Thnx, i just set them between the io panel and cool block and they don't move. Yes the one is spinning faster because i normally don't need them so i turn them down, only when i do heavy tasks i turn them on or set them to high via gigabyte SIV.


----------



## bigdayve

I have two odd problems with my rig. I wonder if they may be MOBO related. Any tips or experience? Thanks!

1: Whenever I press the power button, the machine turns on and then powers off and immediately powers on again. I thought this was a PSU issue, but after replacing the PSU I have the same problem. I can't remember for sure, but I think it only happens when the machine is overclocked.

2: The computer doesn't wake up from sleep. Instead, it beeps about 40-50 times and restarts. Sometimes it will go in a loop with the beeping, restarting, beeping, restarting, etc. Sometimes it wakes up eventually. Sometimes it doesn't. The sleep function is important to me b/c I have a slow HDD.

I haven't tried it yet, but I wonder if slowing down my ram to stock speeds would fix the restart problem.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I have two odd problems with my rig. I wonder if they may be MOBO related. Any tips or experience? Thanks!
> 
> 1: Whenever I press the power button, the machine turns on and then powers off and immediately powers on again. I thought this was a PSU issue, but after replacing the PSU I have the same problem. I can't remember for sure, but I think it only happens when the machine is overclocked.
> 
> 2: The computer doesn't wake up from sleep. Instead, it beeps about 40-50 times and restarts. Sometimes it will go in a loop with the beeping, restarting, beeping, restarting, etc. Sometimes it wakes up eventually. Sometimes it doesn't. The sleep function is important to me b/c I have a slow HDD.
> 
> I haven't tried it yet, but I wonder if slowing down my ram to stock speeds would fix the restart problem.


One of the many posts about the dual boot issue in this thread.


----------



## Alien Head

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I have two odd problems with my rig. I wonder if they may be MOBO related. Any tips or experience? Thanks!
> 
> 1: Whenever I press the power button, the machine turns on and then powers off and immediately powers on again. I thought this was a PSU issue, but after replacing the PSU I have the same problem. I can't remember for sure, but I think it only happens when the machine is overclocked.
> 
> 2: The computer doesn't wake up from sleep. Instead, it beeps about 40-50 times and restarts. Sometimes it will go in a loop with the beeping, restarting, beeping, restarting, etc. Sometimes it wakes up eventually. Sometimes it doesn't. The sleep function is important to me b/c I have a slow HDD.
> 
> I haven't tried it yet, but I wonder if slowing down my ram to stock speeds would fix the restart problem.


1. My Machine does that also, think BIOS is configuring the chipset before boot, Does it boot ok after that? Seems to be the case with non stock settings.
2. I also had weird sleep problem GA-990FXA-UD3 R4 board and Windows 10. The Temperature sensors would be messed up and PWM fans would not spin. I ended up downgrading to the F2 version of the BIOS. Version F3 seems to have issue coming out of sleep.


----------



## bigdayve

Thanks, I'll try that...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> One of the many posts about the dual boot issue in this thread.


I'm a little confused on your advice here Undervolter. Currently, I have an OC, APM is on, and Turbo is off. Should I turn the turbo on and match it to my OC speed?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> In the UD3P the dual boot goes away with enabling turbo in BIOS. Even if you overclock and don't use turbo and you have APM off, so turbo is inactive, if you keep turbo ON, the double boot goes away.


1. It does boot fine from being powered off. It just does what I described before that. It does struggle to wake from sleep.
2. I have the most recent version of the Bios as of February 2016. I think it's F3. I'm not having the PWM fan issues you describe or T sensor problems. In your experience the F2 w/ Win 10 doesn't have sleeping problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alien Head*
> 
> 1. My Machine does that also, think BIOS is configuring the chipset before boot, Does it boot ok after that? Seems to be the case with non stock settings.
> 2. I also had weird sleep problem GA-990FXA-UD3 R4 board and Windows 10. The Temperature sensors would be messed up and PWM fans would not spin. I ended up downgrading to the F2 version of the BIOS. Version F3 seems to have issue coming out of sleep.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Thanks, I'll try that...
> I'm a little confused on your advice here Undervolter. Currently, I have an OC, APM is on, and Turbo is off. Should I turn the turbo on and match it to my OC speed?
> 1. It does boot fine from being powered off. It just does what I described before that. It does struggle to wake from sleep.
> 2. I have the most recent version of the Bios as of February 2016. I think it's F3. I'm not having the PWM fan issues you describe or T sensor problems. In your experience the F2 w/ Win 10 doesn't have sleeping problems.


APM On with overclock, doesn't make sense. The APM ensures that your CPU will not exceed the factory TDP. So on paper, when you load your CPU heavily, it will cause throttling every few seconds and your clock will be going up and down all the time.

You should try various combinations, but always with APM off, since you overclock. Try

- Turbo off and normal overclock.
- Turbo on (without further tweaking) and normal overclock.
- Turbo on with matched speed and overclock.

I have a different model than yours (the UD3P isn't the same as UD3 and mine has only 2 BIOSes, one which is beta, go figure). I also don't run Win10, i have WIn7 and no wake up problems. But, here's an interesting bug i have. My USB3 front header, wont' recognize a USB flash drive, although it powers it. If you install USB3 drivers, it recognizes the drive. As soon as you reboot, it no longer does. So i run my front USB3 ports connected to USB2 headers.

Welcome to Gigabyte BIOS hell. I won't be buying Gigabyte again, unless i read that they 've decided to hire proper software programmers. Good luck!

EDIT: I think there is some confusion with quoting. My post, wherever you found it, is about the double boot issue, not related to waking up...


----------



## Alien Head

Quote:


> 2. I have the most recent version of the Bios as of February 2016. I think it's F3. I'm not having the PWM fan issues you describe or T sensor problems. In your experience the F2 w/ Win 10 doesn't have sleeping problems.


Quote:


> S3 (traditional Standby, with the CPU off and RAM in slow refresh)


Sounds like your sleep settings are being corrupted. Will your machine pass a 1 hour test of prime95? I would backup my profile and set the board to stock see if you don't have same problem. I always backup to a memory stick.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Thanks, I'll try that...
> I'm a little confused on your advice here Undervolter. Currently, I have an OC, APM is on, and Turbo is off. Should I turn the turbo on and match it to my OC speed?
> 1. It does boot fine from being powered off. It just does what I described before that. It does struggle to wake from sleep.
> 2. I have the most recent version of the Bios as of February 2016. I think it's F3. I'm not having the PWM fan issues you describe or T sensor problems. In your experience the F2 w/ Win 10 doesn't have sleeping problems.


Turn turbo on, APM off and match the turbo max clock with your OC. As for your sleep issues, no idea, I never use it plus I boot off of a SSD, so speed isn't an issue. I was simply linking that for the dual boot problem.


----------



## onurbulbul

Hello Everyone, Please help me to choose one of this setups:

1) Gigabyte 990FXA UD3 with FX 8320 or
2) Gigabyte 990FXA UD5 with FX 9590

I've two Gigabyte GTX 970 G1 for SLI, Corsair 760i power and Corsair H110 cooler.

Thank you so much in advance


----------



## MishelLngelo

I don't see FX 9xxx supported at all but if you want SLI UD5 and FX 8370 is the way to go. Actally I don't even know if 9570 exist at all. 9370 yes.
http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=3891


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> I don't see FX 9xxx supported at all but if you want SLI UD5 and FX 8370 is the way to go. Actally I don't even know if 9570 exist at all. 9370 yes.
> http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=3891


I meant 9590


----------



## MishelLngelo

It's not supported, it needs 220W and MB is good for 140W.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> It's not supported, it needs 220W and MB is good for 140W.


Do you think is it gonna be better if I would go with 8320 cpu and UD3 mb. Is this Cpu would be enough for my sli setup?


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> It's not supported, it needs 220W and MB is good for 140W.


You meant this UD5 MB cannot handle with 9590 cpu?


----------



## MishelLngelo

I may be mistaken but it's not only power that matters but BIOS doesn't support it either. UD5 has no stronger VRM than UD3.
UD5 has better SLI capabilities, it's just about only difference from UD3. I don't think that 8320 at stock speed is enough to feed 2x 970 SLI properly.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> I may be mistaken but it's not only power that matters but BIOS doesn't support it either. UD5 has no stronger VRM than UD3.
> UD5 has better SLI capabilities, it's just about only difference from UD3. I don't think that 8320 at stock speed is enough to feed 2x 970 SLI properly.


Well I'd only SLI setup. So I don't need UD5. If I would OC 8320 is it gonna be enough?


----------



## MishelLngelo

Can't tell you exactly if it will be enough, that mostly depends on a game. SLI is not recognized by all the games either.


----------



## onurbulbul

Which rev. Version should I choose for UD3


----------



## MishelLngelo

My is 1.1 and works good but if you have a choice, I guess last one is better, UEFI works better on it, mine, I don't use UEFI, it's pretty basic.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> My is 1.1 and works good but if you have a choice, I guess last one is better, UEFI works better on it, mine, I don't use UEFI, it's pretty basic.


Thanks


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Which rev. Version should I choose for UD3


Avoid the 3.0. I hear bad things about the UD3 3.0 overheating. I would go for revision 4.1 or newer. More recent versions are more widely available so it shouldn't be any trouble to get a newer revision. No matter which version you get, expect a crappy bios


----------



## ~kRon1k~

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> I may be mistaken but it's not only power that matters but BIOS doesn't support it either. UD5 has no stronger VRM than UD3.
> UD5 has better SLI capabilities, it's just about only difference from UD3. I don't think that 8320 at stock speed is enough to feed 2x 970 SLI properly.


running a 9590 and 3 r9 280x on my ud5 for almost two years with no issues at all. just keep the everything cool and have a decent power supply.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Avoid the 3.0. I hear bad things about the UD3 3.0 overheating. I would go for revision 4.1 or newer. More recent versions are more widely available so it shouldn't be any trouble to get a newer revision. No matter which version you get, expect a crappy bios


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Avoid the 3.0. I hear bad things about the UD3 3.0 overheating. I would go for revision 4.1 or newer. More recent versions are more widely available so it shouldn't be any trouble to get a newer revision. No matter which version you get, expect a crappy bios


What is the matter with bios??


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> What is the matter with bios??


It's just buggy. For instance, on mine I can't set the NB Frequency to anything, but default. I'll mark the setting in the bios, but the change doesn't take effect. I even tried flashing the bios, no good. Monitoring programs like HWinfo64 just mark it at the default frequency. It puts some limitation on my OC, luckily I have an unlocked multiplier on my CPU. My feeling from reading on forums is that Gigabyte builds quality products, but does not support them well in the way of software including MOBO bios. This gets problematic especially on old architecture like AM3+.

You get what you pay for. You get a Sabertooth and you will get a relatively new bios with all the bells and whistles.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> It's just buggy. For instance, on mine I can't set the NB Frequency to anything, but default. I'll mark the setting in the bios, but the change doesn't take effect. I even tried flashing the bios, no good. Monitoring programs like HWinfo64 just mark it at the default frequency. It puts some limitation on my OC, luckily I have an unlocked multiplier on my CPU. My feeling from reading on forums is that Gigabyte builds quality products, but does not support them well in the way of software including MOBO bios. This gets problematic especially on old architecture like AM3+.
> 
> You get what you pay for. You get a Sabertooth and you will get a relatively new bios with all the bells and whistles.


Which rev. do you have?


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Which rev. do you have?


I believe it's 4.1.


----------



## onurbulbul

I bought Rev.4.0


----------



## rlopes

Hey guys, I need some help with my GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev.3.0, BIOS FDk. I have an issue with NB multiplier, I can't set anything but stock 2000MHz, I change the value but simply doesn't change in fact, every value I set is completely ignored by the motherboard and the 2000MHz persist.

My rig:

GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev.3.0
FX 6300
2x8GB 1866MHz HyperX Fury Blue
Corsair CX600

Can anybody help? Thanks, and apologize my English


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlopes*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some help with my GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev.3.0, BIOS FDk. I have an issue with NB multiplier, I can't set anything but stock 2000MHz, I change the value but simply doesn't change in fact, every value I set is completely ignored by the motherboard and the 2000MHz persist.
> 
> My rig:
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev.3.0
> FX 6300
> 2x8GB 1866MHz HyperX Fury Blue
> Corsair CX600
> 
> Can anybody help? Thanks, and apologize my English


Bump, I have the same problem. Mine is stuck at 2200Mhz which is stock for my 8320e.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlopes*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some help with my GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev.3.0, BIOS FDk. I have an issue with NB multiplier, I can't set anything but stock 2000MHz, I change the value but simply doesn't change in fact, every value I set is completely ignored by the motherboard and the 2000MHz persist.
> 
> My rig:
> 
> GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev.3.0
> FX 6300
> 2x8GB 1866MHz HyperX Fury Blue
> Corsair CX600
> 
> Can anybody help? Thanks, and apologize my English


what do you mean "stuck" ? You mean that you cannot see like 24 or 2600 MHz or it just won't boot?

Giga EUFI BIOS is tricky and it takes some time to understand it. You cannot see the actual value of the offset you dialed in but you have to do some math instead.

My BIOS reports 2200 MHz CPU/NB which is incorrect because when i go to Windows 10 and open CPU-Z i see 2600 MHz.

I am running 260 FSB with multiplier of 10 for both CPU/NB and HT link which translates in 2600MHz CPU/NB and HT link.

NB volts are at 1.3v and CPU/NB volts at 1.35v in order to stabilize 2600MHz CPU/NB.

CPU/CPU/NB PLL voltage is set to 2.795v and can help with high overclocks, its the same as VDDA voltage on Asus boards.


----------



## rlopes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> what do you mean "stuck" ? You mean that you cannot see like 24 or 2600 MHz or it just won't boot?
> 
> Giga EUFI BIOS is tricky and it takes some time to understand it. You cannot see the actual value of the offset you dialed in but you have to do some math instead.
> 
> My BIOS reports 2200 MHz CPU/NB which is incorrect because when i go to Windows 10 and open CPU-Z i see 2600 MHz.
> 
> I am running 260 FSB with multiplier of 10 for both CPU/NB and HT link which translates in 2600MHz CPU/NB and HT link.
> 
> NB volts are at 1.3v and CPU/NB volts at 1.35v in order to stabilize 2600MHz CPU/NB.
> 
> CPU/CPU/NB PLL voltage is set to 2.795v and can help with high overclocks, its the same as VDDA voltage on Asus boards.


By stuck I mean I can select any disponible value but nothing happens. I will use this random internet image for explanation:



Right there on "NorthBridge Frequency", I can set any value I want, and PC boot normally, but it never apply in fact, the board just ignore my settings and boot at 2000MHz, no message error or something like that. Is exactly the same thing that happens at 760G boards, but 990 is fully supported, so I can't figure out what is happening here.


----------



## Mega Man

As hurr said you can not listen to the bios. You would need to boot to windows and use hwinfo to see the actual value.


----------



## rlopes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> As hurr said you can not listen to the bios. You would need to boot to windows and use hwinfo to see the actual value.


----------



## hurricane28

Do you actually save the settings you applied?

I have the same BIOS and nothing like this happened.


----------



## rlopes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Do you actually save the settings you applied?
> 
> I have the same BIOS and nothing like this happened.


Yes I'm sure, I'm not an expert but I'm not a beginner too, by the way this is my third GA-990FXA-UD3 (I usually change my rigs quite fast) and it never happened to me too. But I must say two things, this is the first time I use the FX 6300 with this board. The other rigs was a FX 8120 / FX 8350. And this is the first Rev.3.0, the others was 1.0 and 1.2, both legacy BIOS, not UEFI.

The user *bigdayve* said he have the same issue too, so I'm not alone. This is very strange, I hope someone can figure this out


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rlopes*


This is what I mean by stuck. Changes to NB frequency in the bios have no effect on the actual NB frequency as seen in programs such as HWinfo. I can set it to 2400 (x12), 2600 (x13), 2200 (x11), 2000 (x10), but it will always be set to default in the bios (2200). Only BLCK changes effect my NB frequency. You can imagine high BLCK overclocks are impossible on my rig (and rlopes) becasue the multiplier can't be turned down.

I think this has been reported before rlopes or me have reported it.

I did buy a refurbished board. I wonder if that may have something to do with it.


----------



## hurricane28

I have a problem with my motherboard and i think i will ask here if any of you encountered the same as me.

Yesterday when i start listening to music i could only hear the left speaker and the right sounded muffled and very low..

When i connect it to the front panel it works perfectly.. sounds like something like a malfunctioning audio chip on the board? I read some on the internet about Realtec ALC 1150 and it seems that some drivers can cause this but they also don't work on the front panel.. i uninstalled audio drivers twice and installed the newest from Realtec site and the problem is still there..


----------



## MishelLngelo

Sound is coming fro same source, the Realtek CODEC chip, back or forward connectors. It's more likely that your jack at the back is malfunctioning. You can re-purpose another jack for output thru Raltek control.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Sound is coming fro same source, the Realtek CODEC chip, back or forward connectors. It's more likely that your jack at the back is malfunctioning. You can re-purpose another jack for output thru Raltek control.


Sometimes the sound from the right speaker is very soft and other time its very soft and not clear..

I will try another jack, hopefully that can solve it otherwise its RMA time i am afraid.. Thnx for the input.


----------



## hurricane28

I tried another jack but the sound is much softer than on the original one, on the front is also much softer..

I contacted Gigabyte about this because its the second board that went bad on me within half a year.. some crappy build quality there..

Hopefully i can get my money back from the retail store because this is unacceptable for me... IF i get my money back i buy the much better Asus Sabertooth R3.0 which is actually the only option for now..

Last time i will ever buy Gigacrap again, BIOS is utterly bad and i have nothing but trouble with this board since the day i have it in my system..


----------



## mus1mus

Did you try the headset if it is working properly?

The sabertooth has worse audio you know.









That being said, I have heard this before.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Did you try the headset if it is working properly?
> 
> The sabertooth has worse audio you know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That being said, I have heard this before.


Yes i tried that and i am sure its the audio port on the motherboard.. when i tinkle with the jack its getting better so its the 3.5inch jack.. I also bought a new speaker set because i thought it was my Logitech z-2300 that went bad because its a problem with that set.

The positive side is that i have a much better speaker set, i bought this one: https://www.bose.nl/nl_nl/products/speakers/stereo_speakers/companion-2-series-iii-multimedia-speaker-system.html

Seriously, its like an angel is singing in your ear! The Sabertooth R3.0 has Realtec ALC 1150, the same chip as i have now. The R2.0 has terrible audio chip.

This is the second or third board that went bad on me in such a short time and i am fed up with this as you can imagine.. The BIOS on this Gigacrap is also terrible and its an terrible overclocker.. I am done, i want the Sabertoot R3.0.


----------



## mus1mus

No need for name-calling. We've seen all that before.

Go grab the kitty.

I hope you'll find inner Zen.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> No need for name-calling. We've seen all that before.
> 
> Go grab the kitty.
> 
> I hope you'll find inner Zen.


Huh? What are you talking about? Name-calling? You mean gigacrap? I am being factual actually.. the latest gigabyte boards are nightmares to overclock and the bios is utter crap as many other gigabyte owners can confirm.. the reason i went with gigabyte is due to its m.2 socket and better/more features than the sabertooth R2.0 to be honest.. i always said that the sabertooth was a better board and i was pretty mad when the audio and LAN went bad on me other than that, it was a much more stable board and i never claimed otherwise.. but thank you for your best wishes.


----------



## bigdayve

I don't have the problem with the audio jack you have described. Could it be your cable?

I can however attest to the crappiness of the realtek audio program. It's not user friendly. When a plug is changed it tends to throw everything off. For example, I unplugged my audio cable for a second to play my phone over my stereo system. Now that I have plugged my speakers back in, I have to play with the settings in Realtek order to get my PC audio output sound correctly.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I don't have the problem with the audio jack you have described. Could it be your cable?
> 
> I can however attest to the crappiness of the realtek audio program. It's not user friendly. When a plug is changed it tends to throw everything off. For example, I unplugged my audio cable for a second to play my phone over my stereo system. Now that I have plugged my speakers back in, I have to play with the settings in Realtek order to get my PC audio output sound correctly.


Its not an common problem of this board because the connector is simply loose and i can wiggle the 3.5inch jack plug when its inserted in to the motherboard..

Its not the cable because i have 2 different speaker sets and its the same with both of them. The thing that gets me off is that this is the second motherboard in not even half a year that breaks down on me... That shows me that the quality of these boards is rather poor IMO..

Yeah you have to tinker with the audio settings in order to get the best out of the Realtec audio chip. I always set the equalizer to powerful and that's it, anything else doesn't sound pleasant IMO and if you tinker with it some more it only makes it worse.

I have Logitech Z-2300 2.1 speaker system and it sounds pretty good. When i thought it was the speaker system i bought a new 2.0 set Bose companion 2 series 3. When you open the package it doesn't look much but if you turn them on and listen to some good quality music it simply blows you away! Incredible sound is coming from these little speakers, everything is crisp and clear and i can hear notes i never heard with my Logitech set, there is no comparison between the 2.


----------



## onurbulbul

After I've played with some settings for overclocking under advanced cpu core features when I restart it, it's complete closed and opened by itself???


----------



## onurbulbul

Which temps should I trust? Amd Overdrive is showing high others low.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> Which temps should I trust? Amd Overdrive is showing high others low.


Both lol.









I believe overdrive is reporting distance to thermal maximum. The others are trying to interpret AMD's algorithm for reporting actual temp and displaying it as such.


----------



## onurbulbul

If you can see above in the picture, it's working 100% load but core multiplier isn't reach the 20. I don't understand why


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> If you can see above in the picture, it's working 100% load but core multiplier isn't reach the 20. I don't understand why


It looks like you have power saving features enabled in BIOS. Disable those and set the multiplier to 20x manually with stock volts. I never use the power saving features and i don't like them.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> If you can see above in the picture, it's working 100% load but core multiplier isn't reach the 20. I don't understand why


FX's Turbo won't allow it to use the 20 multiplier under 100% load on all cores.

It may however hit the 20 multi under a single threaded load such as superpi.


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

Hi
So I've got this mb (GA 990FX GAMING) for a month or so and decided to oc. Im not new to oc. I've disabled all power savings, set manual voltage and crank up the multi. No matter what setting above 20 multi the cpu cores 2 to 6 are stuck to 1.4 and the only way to change that is by enabling cool n quiet . My specs 8320, 8gb Gskill, rx 480, hiper 680w
Any thoughts?


----------



## Mega Man

Like always we need bios screens


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS




----------



## onurbulbul

Some people in forum says, you should disable whole cpu power saving options some says, you do not need to. Is there someone who can explane this to me? Thank you in advance


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


1 you need to raise dram volts tom compensate for vdroop generally 1.67 is enough for it but you may need as much as 1.7- side note in your screen shots ( 1st one ) it looks like you set up ram volts as 1.65- however in your screenshot it shows 1.5 ? - what is the rated voltage for your ram ?
2 cpu/nb ( NB core ) needs to be increased by around 0.1v ( for ~1.2-1.3v)
3 nb voltage also need to be increased by ~ 0.1v ( again 1.2 ish )
4 on all other gigabyte boards i have seen it is recommended you raise cpu pll to 2.695v- please note that board is relatively new, although it may help very little experience with that board in these forums ! you will probably have to test this for your self
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Some people in forum says, you should disable whole cpu power saving options some says, you do not need to. Is there someone who can explane this to me? Thank you in advance


different strokes / different folks - also most guides were written early in fxs lifespan, we now know far more.

generally it is easier to oc with all power saving off


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

Mega Man so you think the CnQ problem i have is caused by the voltages? I dont have any stability issues so far (occt stable for 2 hours). Also im using xmp profile for my Gskill set so it sets automatically the voltage and as you can see in the first pic its at 1.632. Its really weird that i have to enable a power saving feature so i can get the desired clocks. Maybe its a bug?


----------



## Mega Man

According to you (the way I understood it ) your cpu is stuck at low freq.

Ie your not stable as you never Reach the desired freq.

You also stated above a 20x cpu multi your pc won't boot.

The above settings I stated should help with that

Correct me if I am wrong?

If you disable cnq your cpu should be at max freq all the time.

Also
1 certain programs like amd over drive will Ebanks things like a pm. Do you have any installed?

2 i always recommend using offset either once you learn the specified vcore needed or from the beginning IF you want to use cnq.


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

I dont have stability issues with my current settings. The only weird thing is that CnQ needs to be ENABLED so i can have the same freq on all cores. If i disable it, six of the cores stay at 1.4. Also how do i use offset, if for example i need 1.38 voltage?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> I dont have stability issues with my current settings. The only weird thing is that CnQ needs to be ENABLED so i can have the same freq on all cores. If i disable it, six of the cores stay at 1.4. Also how do i use offset, if for example i need 1.38 voltage?


Reset your BIOS and set the overclock again, i have the same board and sometimes the BIOS has a mind of its own it seems.. a BIOS reset mostly solves some problems.

When you dial in a new OC, leave all voltages at stock but disable all power saving features and look whats happening. If it works try to set all voltages little higher like: NB/PCIe/PLL voltage to 1.895, CPU PLL voltage to 2.695, NB voltage to 1.200 and set your RAM at correct voltage manually.

Here are my BIOS screenshots:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

Ok hurricane28, i'll do a clear cmos and try again. It sucks that a great board like this suffers from buggy firmware...They really need to update their bios.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> Ok hurricane28, i'll do a clear cmos and try again. It sucks that a great board like this suffers from buggy firmware...They really need to update their bios.


Yep, good idea.

I think Megaman had some good suggestions about voltages you might want to try. I think I might try some of those myself sometime.

I don't have any trouble with my OC on C&Q. I overclocked and found stability with all energy saving settings disabled. Then I enabled some energy saving features and it became unstable. Then I increased my vcore one or two notches and stability testing showed it to be stable.


----------



## onurbulbul

Is there any program for reading the each CPU temp?


----------



## MishelLngelo

Yes, AMD Overdrive.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> Ok hurricane28, i'll do a clear cmos and try again. It sucks that a great board like this suffers from buggy firmware...They really need to update their bios.


I think you are very close to the solution if you do an cmos reset, it solved a lot of problems i had with this board.

Yes they do need to update their BIOS but unfortunately Gigabyte doesn't love their customers as much as Asus does and the BIOS of Gigabyte boards is a joke to be honest and that is one of the reasons i am switching back to Asus.. The Sabertooth is far from perfect but at least its a very good if not the best overclocking board money can buy with 990FX chipset..

Yep, Mega has some good points and you should consider them too. These boards do have a vdroop to them and to compensate you need to set values little higher in BIOS.

Good luck and let us know how it goes


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Is there any program for reading the each CPU temp?


no, unlike intel there is not a temp per core, there is just "the" coretemp
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> I dont have stability issues with my current settings. The only weird thing is that CnQ needs to be ENABLED so i can have the same freq on all cores. If i disable it, six of the cores stay at 1.4. Also how do i use offset, if for example i need 1.38 voltage?


i addressed most of this.

to the part i didnt. to use offset you need to find your vid.

to do this reset bios to default - disable all powersaving features and turbo. then restart- the voltage your pc is at ( vcore ) is your vid vid differs fromn chip to chip, generally 1.1 - 1.35 v from there you subtract your vid from your desired voltage and you get the amount your offset should be.

FOR EXAMPLE ONLY

my vid is 1.337 you want 1.45 1.45-1.337 =offset of 0.113v


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

Ok so after clearing cmos CnQ seems to be working fine....I'll continue overclocking the cpu now








Also the dynamic vcore option is greyed , how can i access it?


----------



## onurbulbul

Core 1.55 v but still not stable.


----------



## Mega Man

See below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 you need to raise dram volts tom compensate for vdroop generally 1.67 is enough for it but you may need as much as 1.7- side note in your screen shots ( 1st one ) it looks like you set up ram volts as 1.65- however in your screenshot it shows 1.5 ? - what is the rated voltage for your ram ?
> 2 cpu/nb ( NB core ) needs to be increased by around 0.1v ( for ~1.2-1.3v)
> 3 nb voltage also need to be increased by ~ 0.1v ( again 1.2 ish )
> 4 on all other gigabyte boards i have seen it is recommended you raise cpu pll to 2.695v- please note that board is relatively new, although it may help very little experience with that board in these forums ! you will probably have to test this for your self
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Some people in forum says, you should disable whole cpu power saving options some says, you do not need to. Is there someone who can explane this to me? Thank you in advance
> 
> 
> 
> different strokes / different folks - also most guides were written early in fxs lifespan, we now know far more.
> 
> generally it is easier to oc with all power saving off
Click to expand...


----------



## mus1mus

I think it's optimistic to aim for 4.8 at 1.55 with the board.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> I think it's optimistic to aim for 4.8 at 1.55 with the board.


Why?


----------



## mus1mus

Board taps before 1.5 in my experience with the UD3 R3. I don't think much difference can be expected from the new ones.

Board limit


----------



## Mega Man

side note guys

please if you take bios screenshots, dont use your phone.

insert a fat32 formatted usb and press the screenshot button ( iirc f12 )


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Board taps before 1.5 in my experience with the UD3 R3. I don't think much difference can be expected from the new ones.
> 
> Board limit


I see


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> side note guys
> 
> please if you take bios screenshots, dont use your phone.
> 
> insert a fat32 formatted usb and press the screenshot button ( iirc f12 )








I've dont the picture your ways








So could you possible tell me if you could give any advice about my mobo setting


----------



## mus1mus

What Revision is that?

3rd pic: Enable HPC

4th pic:
VCore to 1.4
NB Core to 1.25
DRAM Voltage to 1.675
NB/PCIe/.. PLL to 1.85
CPU PLL to 2.7
NB Voltage to 1.25
LLC is the tricky part. Set it to Normal for now.

Set your CPU Multiplier to 22 for a 4.4GHz Core Clock.
Set your RAM to Default Clock and Timings - aka DOCP Profile 1.
Run HWInfo64 and double click the VCore Voltage to open a Graph (we'd like to see how LLC affects the VCore level at load)
Run IBT AVX and observe the VCore graph as well as the Temps.

Post your results here.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> side note guys
> 
> please if you take bios screenshots, dont use your phone.
> 
> insert a fat32 formatted usb and press the screenshot button ( iirc f12 )
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've dont the picture your ways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So could you possible tell me if you could give any advice about my mobo setting
Click to expand...

see below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> See below
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 you need to raise dram volts tom compensate for vdroop generally 1.67 is enough for it but you may need as much as 1.7- side note in your screen shots ( 1st one ) it looks like you set up ram volts as 1.65- however in your screenshot it shows 1.5 ? - what is the rated voltage for your ram ?
> 2 cpu/nb ( NB core ) needs to be increased by around 0.1v ( for ~1.2-1.3v)
> 3 nb voltage also need to be increased by ~ 0.1v ( again 1.2 ish )
> 4 on all other gigabyte boards i have seen it is recommended you raise cpu pll to 2.695v- please note that board is relatively new, although it may help very little experience with that board in these forums ! you will probably have to test this for your self
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Some people in forum says, you should disable whole cpu power saving options some says, you do not need to. Is there someone who can explane this to me? Thank you in advance
> 
> 
> 
> different strokes / different folks - also most guides were written early in fxs lifespan, we now know far more.
> 
> generally it is easier to oc with all power saving off
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## LazarusIV

Quick question, folks:

I saw somewhere (don't remember where of course) that someone found you could screw a small fan right into the NB heatsink fins. I've moved from a custom wc loop to air cooling (Thermalright Le Grande Macho RT, fantastic cooler, loving it) and I wanted to try to boost my OC slightly by actively cooling the VRMs. Anyone recall this at all? I might just take a measurement of the space and grab a fan or two that would probably fit and try it out.

IIRC, the individual used a small fan (40mm, 52mm, something like that) and was able to screw two fan screws through the fan and the screws actually threaded between the NB heat sink fins securely. Ring anyone's bell? Thanks!


----------



## onurbulbul

Is it good for starting? I'll continue... My target is 4800Mhz.


----------



## mus1mus

We need to see the VCore value or swings. Since you have AIDA 64, we can use that as well.

Open the Stability applet without running the test while testing Prime. Look at the Voltages Tab so you can monitor the VCore swings.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> Is it good for starting? I'll continue... My target is 4800Mhz.


Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the board limit is closely tied to VRM temps. I think once the board starts getting up to the 4800 range, the VRM's get too hot without modifying the stock cooling. I recommend putting two cheap CPU cooling fans on the VRM. I used my 8320e fan and I purchased a second stock CPU fan on Ebay for <$10.

On this board, I have moved my GPU to the lower PCIE slot and it reduced my CPU temps 2-3C without hurting graphics performance.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazarusIV*
> 
> Quick question, folks:
> 
> I saw somewhere (don't remember where of course) that someone found you could screw a small fan right into the NB heatsink fins. I've moved from a custom wc loop to air cooling (Thermalright Le Grande Macho RT, fantastic cooler, loving it) and I wanted to try to boost my OC slightly by actively cooling the VRMs. Anyone recall this at all? I might just take a measurement of the space and grab a fan or two that would probably fit and try it out.
> 
> IIRC, the individual used a small fan (40mm, 52mm, something like that) and was able to screw two fan screws through the fan and the screws actually threaded between the NB heat sink fins securely. Ring anyone's bell? Thanks!


I used zip ties on a 40mm fan (40mm IIRC). Not the prettiest solution, but it's effective. However, the performance difference is minimal. In fact, my rudimentary testing indicated that actively cooling the NB somehow made it worse than leaving it stock







I'm not sure why and I think it's probably particular to my setup.


----------



## MishelLngelo

I'm sure it's pushing over 140W with 4.8GHz on my FX 6350 @1.43v and VRM is as cool as it can be.


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

Today the problem i had with CnQ came back... I had it re enabled for testing and now again the clock speeds stay at 1.4 unless CnQ is on. *** is goin on?









I upped all the voltages as Mega Man suggested but nothing. Is there a problem with the board ?


----------



## onurbulbul

4.4Ghz, 30 min. prime, 1.4 v core


----------



## onurbulbul

Apparently I have catched the stability at 4.4ghz. Core temps are around 54 degrees


----------



## Mega Man

You are not staying at 1,4.

However giga is know to make you throttle at certain loads on other boards.

Possible they have hard coded throttling on yours as well


----------



## mus1mus

I wouldn't be too inclined to say it's throttling yet. But it can be seen better if one can only listen and follow some recommendations.


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

It is stayin
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You are not staying at 1,4.
> 
> However giga is know to make you throttle at certain loads on other boards.
> 
> Possible they have hard coded throttling on yours as well


It is staying at 1.4 even under load/stress tests. I also notice general performance decrease. In bios the reported speeds look normal, but all software reports 1.4. Will they accept to rma?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> It is stayin
> It is staying at 1.4 even under load/stress tests. I also notice general performance decrease. In bios the reported speeds look normal, but all software reports 1.4. Will they accept to rma?


There is little more to it than just your cores.. voltages are also not accurate. How is your PSU?

Install HWINFO64, its the best program for these chips.


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> There is little more to it than just your cores.. voltages are also not accurate. How is your PSU?
> 
> Install HWINFO64, its the best program for these chips.


I have the Hiper 680w mk2. I know they seem a little off but bios shows correct values, i never trust software for psu voltages. The pc wouldn't even boot with those values, let alone gaming and stressing. As i said before all is stable with overclocked settings but why does CnQ needs to be enabled? And why sometimes, after clearing cmos works as it should?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> I have the Hiper 680w mk2. I know they seem a little off but bios shows correct values, i never trust software for psu voltages. The pc wouldn't even boot with those values, let alone gaming and stressing. As i said before all is stable with overclocked settings but why does CnQ needs to be enabled? And why sometimes, after clearing cmos works as it should?


HWINFO64 is the best software for system monitoring out there to be honest and i had some difficulties with my board as well regarding the readings but all is well now.

sometimes a reset cmos doesn't work properly, what i mostly do is unplug the power cable and turn the power switch off. Than i hold the power button for about 10 seconds and start the machine up. I do this to be sure there is no power left in the components so when i start up i get "clean" power if you know what i mean.

I called and emailed Gigabyte and they send me a new BIOS, i couldn't see any difference but it made a small improvement in stability. I will go look if i can send it to you.

Try this BIOS:

990FXGAMING.zip 2768k .zip file


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> HWINFO64 is the best software for system monitoring out there to be honest and i had some difficulties with my board as well regarding the readings but all is well now.
> 
> sometimes a reset cmos doesn't work properly, what i mostly do is unplug the power cable and turn the power switch off. Than i hold the power button for about 10 seconds and start the machine up. I do this to be sure there is no power left in the components so when i start up i get "clean" power if you know what i mean.
> 
> I called and emailed Gigabyte and they send me a new BIOS, i couldn't see any difference but it made a small improvement in stability. I will go look if i can send it to you.
> 
> Try this BIOS:
> 
> 990FXGAMING.zip 2768k .zip file


Thanks hurricane. Is this for the 1.0 revision?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> Thanks hurricane. Is this for the 1.0 revision?


Yes it is, there is only one revision. If i remember correctly you have the same board as i do. Gaming G1, correct?


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes it is, there is only one revision. If i remember correctly you have the same board as i do. Gaming G1, correct?


No. There is also 1.1 with killer 2400 instead of 2200
http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5825#ov


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> No. There is also 1.1 with killer 2400 instead of 2200
> http://www.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5825#ov


Oh wauw, never knew. It seems to be new because it wasn't there last time i looked. Maybe the NV1 BIOS is from the revision 1.1?

the only difference i can tell is the Killer 2400 instead of the Killer 2200... i don't know if that is any better but i am not that pleased with the Killer 2200 to be honest.


----------



## AKERSEKOMIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes it is, there is only one revision. If i remember correctly you have the same board as i do. Gaming G1, correct?


No. There is also 1.1 with killer 2400 instead of 2200
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Oh wauw, never knew. It seems to be new because it wasn't there last time i looked. Maybe the NV1 BIOS is from the revision 1.1?


Maybe. I'll give it a try this weekend


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AKERSEKOMIS*
> 
> No. There is also 1.1 with killer 2400 instead of 2200
> Maybe. I'll give it a try this weekend


Good luck, let us know if it works


----------



## neojack

Hello,

I search a GA-990FXA-UD7
would pay 150USD + shipping to canada

My goal is to build a 4-way crossfire with 4x AMD 480


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neojack*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I search a GA-990FXA-UD7
> would pay 150USD + shipping to canada
> 
> My goal is to build a 4-way crossfire with 4x AMD 480


It was a low production model I believe. I've rarely seen it listed on eBay, let alone on OCN Marketplace. Gotta search around often and catch one FS sometime.

I think I lucked out on the UD5 (Rev 3.0) I got, it's not flawless, I do get the dual boot issue, but I rarely reboot anyway. Had no problems overclocking to my limits of what I have in cooling and no other issues like others have posted about with Giga's boards. There are good ones out there, probably just uncommon.


----------



## neojack

I owned an UD7 before. Sold it, regret it now







still have the waterblock for the Mobo also.

I moved to intel but 3-4 GPUs are only available on X chipsets (x79,X98,X99) due to PCI lanes limitations from intel.


----------



## Mega Man

I have 2


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neojack*
> 
> I owned an UD7 before. Sold it, regret it now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> still have the waterblock for the Mobo also.
> 
> I moved to intel but 3-4 GPUs are only available on X chipsets (x79,X98,X99) due to PCI lanes limitations from intel.


Yeah, I'd still actually want one too, never had it myself, but it's also not in my budget at this time.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I have 2


Nice!


----------



## onurbulbul

Here's my rig


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> Here's my rig


very nice and clean build! i see that you also use noctua nf f12 indusyrial fans? i have the 3000rpm ones, which one do you have?


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> very nice and clean build! i see that you also use noctua nf f12 indusyrial fans? i have the 3000rpm ones, which one do you have?


Thanks. I've nf-14 2000rpm.


----------



## onurbulbul

Every 10 sec. cpu is throttling itself. Any help would be perfect.


----------



## neojack

not a specialist, but maybe 57C is a bit high for an AMD CPU
I know they like cooler temps than Intel's.


----------



## Nightz2k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> Every 10 sec. cpu is throttling itself. Any help would be perfect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neojack*
> 
> not a specialist, but maybe 57C is a bit high for an AMD CPU
> I know they like cooler temps than Intel's.


57C isn't bad at all really for that overclock. I've gotten up to 63C without any throttling issues and I'm on a budget cpu cooler _(in push/pull)_, but I also like to think I have decent airflow in my case and a fan blowing on the back of the motherboard over the cpu socket area helps too.

It could be the VRM's that are running too hot, I don't see any really high temps from the screenshot, but that's not always accurate either from what others have said. I've also read _(here on OCN)_ that you have to be careful on them, you can burn the VRM's out or something like that. It really depends on your case airflow, where your fans are and what they're cooling, etc. I'm sure there's other UD3 owners that have gotten high OC's that can help you out a bit more.


----------



## Mega Man

I have pushed 80c with my cpu. Imo that is just weird as usual bios screens would help


----------



## hurricane28

I assume 80c on the cores? Mine shut off when i hit 80c, motherboard dependent maybe? I was on the Sabertooth btw.


----------



## neojack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> Every 10 sec. cpu is throttling itself. Any help would be perfect.


I have found this post, it should be helpfull to you
http://www.overclock.net/t/1202751/amd-fx-cpu-throttling-fixes-please-sticky
apparently, 8120 CPU throttles at 61C. your screenshot shows 56 wich is close

also on this post the guy had throttling problems but CPU core at 50C. finally he resolved the problem by adding case cooling (VRM temps were too high it seems)

https://hardforum.com/threads/sempron-3850-clocks-down-at-safe-temperatures.1855432/


----------



## neojack

I found a UD7 !

it was badly spelled on ebay. i did not found it with the full name "GA-990FXA-UD7", but simply "gigabyte UD7"
cheap too, and shipped with a CPU as bonus









http://www.ebay.ca/itm/322248409538


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neojack*
> 
> I found a UD7 !
> 
> it was badly spelled on ebay. i did not found it with the full name "GA-990FXA-UD7", but simply "gigabyte UD7"
> cheap too, and shipped with a CPU as bonus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/322248409538


I would be worried about this part "WYSIWYG NO WARRANTY - NO RETURNS" but price is right.


----------



## onurbulbul

Today I've tired with AIDA 64 and It wasn't throttling. Coud it be possible from Prime 95 ???


----------



## neojack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> I would be worried about this part "WYSIWYG NO WARRANTY - NO RETURNS" but price is right.


Well a lot of motherboard sellers do not offer returns nowadays, because people scam them :
they buy a motherboard, then says it's DOA and ask for a refund. they send back ANOTHER dead motherboard, keep the good motherboard they just bought and get a refund

I asked the seller. he says it was pulled from a working PC, and worked last time it was used. And if it's a scam, why send a CPU with it ?
Everytime a guy buy a computer part on ebay, it's a lottery anyway. that's why I prefer to use forums like OCN when it's possible


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neojack*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> Every 10 sec. cpu is throttling itself. Any help would be perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> I have found this post, it should be helpfull to you
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1202751/amd-fx-cpu-throttling-fixes-please-sticky
> apparently, 8120 CPU throttles at 61C. your screenshot shows 56 wich is close
> 
> also on this post the guy had throttling problems but CPU core at 50C. finally he resolved the problem by adding case cooling (VRM temps were too high it seems)
> 
> https://hardforum.com/threads/sempron-3850-clocks-down-at-safe-temperatures.1855432/
Click to expand...

Only if power savings is on (specifically apm)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Today I've tired with AIDA 64 and It wasn't throttling. Coud it be possible from Prime 95 ???


It could be hard coded throttling from too much draw. Giga has done it in the past


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Only if power savings is on (specifically apm)
> *It could be hard coded throttling from too much draw. Giga has done it in the past*


If that is the case, should i not see similar results? I mean, i have the newest Gigabyte 990FX board with the newest BIOS and i am not throtting.

I am only too scared to push this chip beyond 4.8GHz because it needs a ton of voltage which this board cannot handle i think..

As soon as i have the Sabertooth in my hands i will try to clock it higher and tweak my ram a little, this board really isn't an overclocking board and the Sabertooth is in a different league when it comes to overclocking... i never expect this board to be this bad to be honest, luckily i will get the Sabertooth and forget this Gigacrap thing


----------



## onurbulbul

Well, I think prime95 was the problem. Aida64 works well like it shoud be. Now I'm at 4.7 Ghz.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Well, I think prime95 was the problem. Aida64 works well like it shoud be. Now I'm at 4.7 Ghz.


]

I had some problems with Prime95 too.

I use IBT AVX and OCCT from now on, since i do stability test with both programs my system is stable as a rock at 4.8GHz CPU, 2400MHz 2x8 16GB RAM and 2600MHz CPU/NB.


----------



## onurbulbul

4.7 Ghz is stable at aida 64. Temp is 63. It's not throttling. Until which temps is gonna be safe.


----------



## mus1mus

Aida is pretty weak for these chips. But since you have that, try the FPU isolated test.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Aida is pretty weak for these chips. But since you have that, try the FPU isolated test.


You meant without FPU or only FPU? Which other stability test are you recommand?


----------



## mus1mus

FPU only. Check if it throttles.


----------



## onurbulbul

What is the max temps for oc?


----------



## Mega Man

When I am stressing I personally don't have a problem with 70-80c. But all my boards can handle it as can my cooling and other components.

You will need to see about how you feel you (at 4.8 I usually stay around 67-72)


----------



## mus1mus

It all comes down to preference really. I don't want to see 70C temps when stressing in cold as I know the PC will be subjected to 30+C ambient inside a case. But that's just me.

I won't shoot that far on that board. That's for sure.


----------



## hurricane28

Yeah, on my Sabertooth i am comfortable to push my CPU to 72c but on this Giga... i am scared to push even more than 1.5vcore through it let alone pushing temps as high as 80c lol


----------



## bigdayve

I run 1.5 volts daily. So far so good. I do have 3 fans dedicated to vrm and nb. My VRMs stay below 85C in stress testing. If you search the thread there are vrm mods that help keep VRMs cool such as removing the heatsink, replacing thermal pads with thermal paste, and then reassembling the board with custom nuts and bolts. I hope to try that some time?.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I run 1.5 volts daily. So far so good. I do have 3 fans dedicated to vrm and nb. My VRMs stay below 85C in stress testing. If you search the thread there are vrm mods that help keep VRMs cool such as removing the heatsink, replacing thermal pads with thermal paste, and then reassembling the board with custom nuts and bolts. I hope to try that some time?.


Yes me too. I run 1.55vcore in order to maintain a healthy 4.8GHz stable.. this board likes volts it seems, i was stable at the same setting at 1.488vcore on the Sabertooth.. I have one 120mm Corsair fan blowing on the back side of the socket which results in significant lower temps, its even better in combination with 2 60mm fans blowing on the vrm heat sinks. Temps dropped significantly.

I can actually monitor my vrm temps on this board but couldn't on the Sabertooth for some reason, hopefully they fixed this with the R3.0 in order to compare to this board.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yes me too. I run 1.55vcore in order to maintain a healthy 4.8GHz stable.. this board likes volts it seems, i was stable at the same setting at 1.488vcore on the Sabertooth.. I have one 120mm Corsair fan blowing on the back side of the socket which results in significant lower temps, its even better in combination with 2 60mm fans blowing on the vrm heat sinks. Temps dropped significantly.
> 
> I can actually monitor my vrm temps on this board but couldn't on the Sabertooth for some reason, hopefully they fixed this with the R3.0 in order to compare to this board.


I wonder why exactly the sabertooth can run it on lower voltage. I wonder how much of the advantage can be attributed to superior vrm cooling.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I wonder why exactly the sabertooth can run it on lower voltage. I wonder how much of the advantage can be attributed to superior vrm cooling.


There is a little more to it than just vrm cooling..

BIOS is much much better, vrm cooling is better, vrm's itself are superior to Gigabyte ones etc.

I had the Gigabyte UD5 R1.1 which was an very solid board with simple BIOS and it worked very well to be honest. When it died i went for the Sabertooth because everyones was claiming that its an superior board and it turned out they were right. I later discovered that i had problems with the EC sensor which resulted in weird readings and behavior of the board and it slowed down my system.

Later my LAN and audio went bad so i went back to the store and got myself this Gigabyte gaming board because of the fact it had M.2 and some other features i liked but it turns out that they still didn't fix the utterly useless UEFI BIOS... I mean, i can't even see how high i set my OC for crying out loud lol

It is also not a very stable board, i think it has problems with my 2400MHz G.Skill tridentX but i am not sure. I tried many many settings and in OCCT and IBT AVX i am stable for hours on end but sometimes its very laggy and when i change something in BIOS it simply won't boot... i flashed my BIOS several times but the problem remains...When i contact Gigabyte about this they keep saying that they will contact Gigabyte testing facility in Taiwan but until today still no answer.. i am fed up with this kind of behavior and treatment from company's so i go to Asus again.

I had some trouble with Asus in the past but i heard that they stepped up their customer support in this region because there were many many complaints about it. Components went lost, it took forever to get your product back etc. etc. they took it as positive feedback and did something about it, so now i am confident to go back to Asus again.


----------



## onurbulbul

I was stable at 4.7Ghz with 1.476v. Now I'm at 4.8Ghz with 1.5250 v. But still not stable. Only for 100Mhz that much voltage. I don't understand this.


----------



## jeanns

Fellows.

i'm currently trying to overclock my *8350* on *990fxa UD3*. But i'm getting some fails on my attempts.

I got 4.4Ghz stable on 1.4000v and i'm using *Medium LLC* and with all CPU CORE FEATURES DISABLED:

_Core Performance Boost
_
Cpu Unlock
Cool & Quiet
C1E Support
SVM
CPU C6 State
HPC Mode
APM

But when i try to go 4.5, i need to rise so much my CPU Voltage, like now with 1,47500v and not stable at all









I took some pictures during the IBT Very High Test and some indicators not show so good;
*Orange* = Idle
*Red* = Load



My CPU temp i think it's very good (*Seidon 120v Push 'n Pull*) , but my VRM temps OMG









And i decided to turn on the OCCT just to monitoring the stress test because i heard my fan cooler rising and down the RPM... And i could realise this:

Note: 2min just to solve my doubts and show what was happening







So... My PSU is the CX750M.

Could someone help me?
To be honest i'm very disappointed with this CPU


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanns*
> 
> Fellows.
> 
> i'm currently trying to overclock my *8350* on *990fxa UD3*. But i'm getting some fails on my attempts.
> 
> I got 4.4Ghz stable on 1.4000v and i'm using *Medium LLC* and with all CPU CORE FEATURES DISABLED:
> 
> _Core Performance Boost
> _
> Cpu Unlock
> Cool & Quiet
> C1E Support
> SVM
> CPU C6 State
> HPC Mode
> APM
> 
> But when i try to go 4.5, i need to rise so much my CPU Voltage, like now with 1,47500v and not stable at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I took some pictures during the IBT Very High Test and some indicators not show so good;
> *Orange* = Idle
> *Red* = Load
> 
> 
> 
> My CPU temp i think it's very good (*Seidon 120v Push 'n Pull*) , but my VRM temps OMG
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And i decided to turn on the OCCT just to monitoring the stress test because i heard my fan cooler rising and down the RPM... And i could realise this:
> 
> Note: 2min just to solve my doubts and show what was happening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So... My PSU is the CX750M.
> 
> Could someone help me?
> To be honest i'm very disappointed with this CPU


If i were you i would stop running stress test programs... your vrm's are overheating and if you continue like this you will probably blow up your board in short order..

Make sure you have some airflow over them like a spot fan or anything that you can fig in your case. These chips draw an enormous amount of power which translate in very hot vrm's. That is why you are not getting stable because of vrm throtting..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I was stable at 4.7Ghz with 1.476v. Now I'm at 4.8Ghz with 1.5250 v. But still not stable. Only for 100Mhz that much voltage. I don't understand this.


some chips have an enormous voltage wall at 4.8GHz. I have an pretty big voltage wall after 4.8GHz which is why i stay at 4.8GHz for now. I did not see such an high voltage wall on my Sabertooth to be honest, but than again, that is an pure overclocking board which the Gigabyte boards aren't.

Make sure you have adequate cooling because these chips tin to run unstable at high temps.


----------



## jeanns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> If i were you i would stop running stress test programs... your vrm's are overheating and if you continue like this you will probably blow up your board in short order..
> 
> Make sure you have some airflow over them like a spot fan or anything that you can fig in your case. These chips draw an enormous amount of power which translate in very hot vrm's. That is why you are not getting stable because of vrm throtting..


Hi man,

Sure.... i stopped for while...

My case is the corsair carbide air 540 and this is my currently air flow

I changed to this flow just to put a fan on top to blow air on the VRM heatsink... And by the way, it's not working as i wanted


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> If i were you i would stop running stress test programs... your vrm's are overheating and if you continue like this you will probably blow up your board in short order..
> 
> Make sure you have some airflow over them like a spot fan or anything that you can fig in your case. These chips draw an enormous amount of power which translate in very hot vrm's. That is why you are not getting stable because of vrm throtting..


Can you trust that program which is showing VRM temps?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Can you trust that program which is showing VRM temps?


In most cases yes. HWINFO64 is one of the few programs that actually shows correct readings. I use it for years now and it works great so far.


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> In most cases yes. HWINFO64 is one of the few programs that actually shows correct readings. I use it for years now and it works great so far.


"Motherboard" readings in HWInfo ?


----------



## bigdayve

Yeah try HWinfo64, you won't go back to hwmonitor. My volt wall seems to be between 4.6ghz and 4.7ghz. I need at would need at least a .05 vcore increase to get to 4.7ghz from 4.6ghz. I can run 3.7ghz at 1.2 vcore and then I go up to 1.5vc at 4.6ghz.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Can you trust that program which is showing VRM temps?
> 
> 
> 
> In most cases yes. HWINFO64 is one of the few programs that actually shows correct readings. I use it for years now and it works great so far.
Click to expand...

thermistors ate very accurate. And the program just read the thermistor. It is not the same as voltage....


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thermistors ate very accurate. And the program just read the thermistor. It is not the same as voltage....


I wouldn't be so sure about it's accuracy, most programs show up to 40c when loaded but by the touch it feels much higher. 60c at least. If heat sink is that hot, chips themselves must be at least 20c higher.


----------



## onurbulbul

It's writting Total Errors bottom of the hwinfo64. Should i be worry?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> It's writting Total Errors bottom of the hwinfo64. Should i be worry?


I think its an indication that you are not stable. It can also be that your windows is corrupt.

you can easily check this. Go to the window logo on bottom left side of your taskbar. Right click on it and you should see Command prompt (admin) click on that and type: sfc /scannow your system is now checking for errors and let it finish. Follow the instructions on the screen if there are any errors found, if no errors you are good to go.

If its not your OS try to work on your overclock. Run OCCT and IBT AVX. IBT at maximum or very high setting and OCCT select test type: infinite and check 64 bits, AVX capable linpack and use all logic cores.

To find instability fast, run IBT AVX for 10 or 20 runs on maximum or very high and if that is stable with similar numbers over all the 10 runs try to run OCCT, that program really hammers your system and you actually see 2 hammers pounding when you open the program. If its stable at both programs you are pretty much good to go, don't even bother running Prime95 because OCCT is much better and as i said before, it really hammers your system to the max. It also uses much more memory compared to Prime95 and IBT which can also be a problem because it can be that your CPU is stable but your memory isn't so you pass that program but crash in an actual application like Adobe Premier pro or some games that uses lots of RAM. I know this because i tried it before and it failed, that's why i use the testing methodology like i mentioned before and it has never failed me so far.

Good luck and if you have any questions, feel free to ask









p.s. keep an eye on your temps at all time, these programs are dangerous if you don't have adequate cooling.


----------



## mus1mus

Which clearly shows, he doesn't.

HWInfo Errors can be ignored as the app does show the detected errors but does not ignore ECC Corrected errors. Unless you are looking at thousands of them.


----------



## hurricane28

What do you mean? His temps are fine.. I don't see any errors in my HWINFO64 to be honest.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I was stable at 4.7Ghz with 1.476v. Now I'm at 4.8Ghz with 1.5250 v. But still not stable. Only for 100Mhz that much voltage. I don't understand this.


After I've tried with OCCT 2 min. it crashed. I tought it's stable after 1 hour Aida64


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> After I've tried with OCCT 2 min. it crashed. I tought it's stable after 1 hour Aida64


People told you before that AIDA64 isn't a very good stress testing program...

OCCT and IBT AVX stresses the system way differently and after passing those 2 you are pretty stable.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> What do you mean? His temps are fine.. I don't see any errors in my HWINFO64 to be honest.


VR Temps at 100C is fine?


----------



## jeanns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> VR Temps at 100C is fine?


It's supposed to be


----------



## mus1mus

wot?

The fact that the op has issues with throttling, don't you think it's quite fair to look into the VRM's actual temps?

Your ava tells it better.


----------



## bigdayve

Vrm temps are supposed to be rated really high, but I've read other places that 90C is the actual upper threshold for reliable performance of VRMs. Also ive read that that anything over 90 may cause damage to components. Sorry for no source for my opinion?


----------



## mus1mus

No need to be sorry.

It'd be fair to say that these low-end GIGA board still suffer the same flaws from early revisions such as the UD3 R3.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thermistors ate very accurate. And the program just read the thermistor. It is not the same as voltage....
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't be so sure about it's accuracy, most programs show up to 40c when loaded but by the touch it feels much higher. 60c at least. If heat sink is that hot, chips themselves must be at least 20c higher.
Click to expand...

i do hvac, - basic rules you learn

1 your finger/hand is not accurate
2 your not a thermometer
3 you can not tell the temp by touching it ( see a trend here ?, trust me it is true, hacks will use " beer can cold" in my trade )

also to note, they DO NOT read VRM temps, they read temps of the PCB NEAR the vrms
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> It's writting Total Errors bottom of the hwinfo64. Should i be worry?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Vrm temps are supposed to be rated really high, but I've read other places that 90C is the actual upper threshold for reliable performance of VRMs. Also ive read that that anything over 90 may cause damage to components. Sorry for no source for my opinion?


each vrm is rated differently, on average 90c is reasonable, but most asus boards ( that i know of ) are 110c ish area afaik

that is the MAX temp. the higher temps they are run at, over time , the lower life you get ( again on average )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> No need to be sorry.
> 
> It'd be fair to say that these low-end GIGA board still suffer the same flaws from early revisions such as the UD3 R3.


agreed


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> VR Temps at 100C is fine?


No, its pretty frecking far from fine lol

I didn't see this because i was focused on the errors and to be honest i didn't expect that his vrm's were getting that hot, thnx for pointing that out


----------



## MishelLngelo

I ordered a cooler for my VRM anyway. I already blew one on GA 790 xt-USB3 MB and with Ph II 965BE (4.2GHz) and it didn't feel hot at all. Finger method may not be accurate when comparing between two persons but I know when something is hot ! Anyway, took a temp probe to it and it was 62c.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> People told you before that AIDA64 isn't a very good stress testing program...
> 
> OCCT and IBT AVX stresses the system way differently and after passing those 2 you are pretty stable.


Could you possible give me a IBT AVX link for downloading?


----------



## hurricane28

Yeah sure, its on this page: http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club

Look under additional software and you see a link for IBT AVX.


----------



## onurbulbul

It is throttling again


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> It is throttling again


Did you add a fan ont he vrms in order to cool them? As we told you before, its your vrm temps that is holding you back...


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Did you add a fan ont he vrms in order to cool them? As we told you before, its your vrm temps that is holding you back...


I didn't do it yet. But I decided to start again from the beginning. I will see with min volt what I can get. Of course with occt and ibt avx.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I think its an indication that you are not stable. It can also be that your windows is corrupt.
> 
> you can easily check this. Go to the window logo on bottom left side of your taskbar. Right click on it and you should see Command prompt (admin) click on that and type: sfc /scannow your system is now checking for errors and let it finish. Follow the instructions on the screen if there are any errors found, if no errors you are good to go.
> 
> If its not your OS try to work on your overclock. Run OCCT and IBT AVX. IBT at maximum or very high setting and OCCT select test type: infinite and check 64 bits, AVX capable linpack and use all logic cores.
> 
> To find instability fast, run IBT AVX for 10 or 20 runs on maximum or very high and if that is stable with similar numbers over all the 10 runs try to run OCCT, that program really hammers your system and you actually see 2 hammers pounding when you open the program. If its stable at both programs you are pretty much good to go, don't even bother running Prime95 because OCCT is much better and as i said before, it really hammers your system to the max. It also uses much more memory compared to Prime95 and IBT which can also be a problem because it can be that your CPU is stable but your memory isn't so you pass that program but crash in an actual application like Adobe Premier pro or some games that uses lots of RAM. I know this because i tried it before and it failed, that's why i use the testing methodology like i mentioned before and it has never failed me so far.
> 
> Good luck and if you have any questions, feel free to ask
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. keep an eye on your temps at all time, these programs are dangerous if you don't have adequate cooling.


Do I understand correct I have to run 10 times IBT AVX Very High setting? When It is successful one time it doesn't mean it's stable for this program?


----------



## Newwt

I have a 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0

I just got a PWM water pump and was wondering if there's a way to set the speed in BIOS? I know if you disable smart fan it runs at max but I was looking to set it at like 30% and see how it goes. In bios as far as the options go I could only find the enable/disable smart fan, and then the settings were xxx/voltage/pwm.

I have it on pwm as of now and its fluctuating around 2900rpm I believe depend on cpu temp.

Is there something I'm missing to be able to set it at a set integer or am I forced to use the gigabyte easytune software?


----------



## jeanns

After my post which i found this VRM problems during my attempts to OC, i started to looking for a solution to this overheating

The main problems with VRM are in REV.3 (like my mobo)

I found many posts that the users bought a new heatsink ( many out of line nowadays) and other users are using a spot fan.

But...Is this really effective?

Because in my case my VRM rose to 115º during IBT test...

On my situation i think a simply spot fan won't hold the temperature kkk


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jeanns*
> 
> After my post which i found this VRM problems during my attempts to OC, i started to looking for a solution to this overheating
> 
> The main problems with VRM are in REV.3 (like my mobo)
> 
> I found many posts that the users bought a new heatsink ( many out of line nowadays) and other users are using a spot fan.
> 
> But...Is this really effective?
> 
> Because in my case my VRM rose to 115º during IBT test...
> 
> On my situation i think a simply spot fan won't hold the temperature kkk


It makes a big difference. It might knock you down by 10 degrees C. You can get a cpu fan from a stock cooler for under $10, if you don't already have one lying around. You can attach it with zip ties and see if it's worth it to use.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Newwt*
> 
> I have a 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0
> 
> I just got a PWM water pump and was wondering if there's a way to set the speed in BIOS? I know if you disable smart fan it runs at max but I was looking to set it at like 30% and see how it goes. In bios as far as the options go I could only find the enable/disable smart fan, and then the settings were xxx/voltage/pwm.
> 
> I have it on pwm as of now and its fluctuating around 2900rpm I believe depend on cpu temp.
> 
> Is there something I'm missing to be able to set it at a set integer or am I forced to use the gigabyte easytune software?


What other option do you have on the CPU fan header in the BIOS?

If in PWM, some boards can allow you to change the minimum and maximum duty cycles. That'll be your guide.


----------



## onurbulbul

I've starded from the beginning to my oc journey with this board. Now I'm trying with stock volt llc medium how much further i can go. I'm using OCCT 20 min. and then IBT AVX. Actually Vrm's already reaching 100C with stock volt, it is not going to be possible to be succesfull without fan on it.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I've starded from the beginning to my oc journey with this board. Now I'm trying with stock volt llc medium how much further i can go. I'm using OCCT 20 min. and then IBT AVX. Actually Vrm's already reaching 100C with stock volt, it is not going to be possible to be succesfull without fan on it.


We told you before, its your vrm temp that is holding you back...


----------



## bigdayve

VRM cooling. It's ugly; It's noisy. As soon as I close my case the ugliness goes away. With my manual fan controllers I keep everything quiet enough for my taste. On a stress test it sounds like a propeller plane. I run 1.5 vcore stable on air. I have no fan behind the motherboard as my case is not well suited for that setup.

I have a new case coming in this week. I'll have to update the pics after I get everything installed on the Enthoo Pro.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> VRM cooling. It's ugly; It's noisy. As soon as I close my case the ugliness goes away. With my manual fan controllers I keep everything quiet enough for my taste. On a stress test it sounds like a propeller plane. I run 1.5 vcore stable on air. I have no fan behind the motherboard as my case is not well suited for that setup.
> 
> I have a new case coming in this week. I'll have to update the pics after I get everything installed on the Enthoo Pro.


I'm sorry to say that but It looks really ugly







But good job bro


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> VRM cooling. It's ugly; It's noisy. As soon as I close my case the ugliness goes away. With my manual fan controllers I keep everything quiet enough for my taste. On a stress test it sounds like a propeller plane. I run 1.5 vcore stable on air. I have no fan behind the motherboard as my case is not well suited for that setup.
> 
> I have a new case coming in this week. I'll have to update the pics after I get everything installed on the Enthoo Pro.


Are you saying that you are running 1.5vcore stable on an Hyper 212EVO..? IF that is true, can you provide some proof of that? I mean, there is no way your cooler can handle that kind of punishment..


----------



## bigdayve

Thanks and I've posted my proof before in the 8320 8350 thread/club. Twice this year I think. If I find time I can post again. At the moment my PC is dismantled and awaiting the new case.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I'm sorry to say that but It looks really ugly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But good job bro


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Are you saying that you are running 1.5vcore stable on an Hyper 212EVO..? IF that is true, can you provide some proof of that? I mean, there is no way your cooler can handle that kind of punishment..


----------



## bigdayve

Does anyone know how to load up. Bios defaults without turning on the PC? I think popping the battery will work, but I need a definitive answer. Thanks!

I removed my MOSFET and nb heatsink. Then I removed the heat spreading pad from the vrm heatsink and replaced it with thermal paste. I hope I did a good job, but I don't know yet. I wish I would have underclocked and undervolted first because I don't want to fire up (pun intended) my PC with these changes at 1.5 vcore. That is the current setting.


----------



## qwerty drive

I installed a Samsung 850 evo a few weeks ago into my gigabyte ud3 r5 and noticed i am getting quite bad benchmark results, AHCI is enabled and SATA 3 but not sure if the drive is using the AMD or Microsoft AHCI controller


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> I installed a Samsung 850 evo a few weeks ago into my gigabyte ud3 r5 and noticed i am getting quite bad benchmark results, AHCI is enabled and SATA 3 but not sure if the drive is using the AMD or Microsoft AHCI controller


what Windows are you using and what are your system specs?


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> what Windows are you using and what are your system specs?


W10 64bit
AMD FX-6300 @ 4.4
990FXA-UD3 R5
8gig ram
Radeon R9 380
Samsung 850 EVO 250G
WD black 500gig


----------



## Mega Man

Not saying that is happening. But don't these ssds overheat


----------



## qwerty drive

Not if you have it installed in front of a fan


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not saying that is happening. But don't these ssds overheat


Overheat? Never had this problem with both 840 and 850 EVO/Pro SSD.s Temps never exceed 30c even under full load or working in Premier pro...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not saying that is happening. But don't these ssds overheat


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> Not if you have it installed in front of a fan


I am afraid its your CPU man, i have very low IOPS as well but read and write speeds are okay. For some reason these chips give very low scores in benchmarks but in real live performance they perform really well... so its nothing to worry about IMO because i did all the research as to why i am getting these low IOPS and spend literally weeks in order to determen what is causing this but the only thing i can find is that Samsung magician is using only 1 thread which is in favor of Intel of course but is bad for AMD unfortunately because of their weak single thread performance.

what you can do is run an different benchmark like AS SSD which test these drives properly. You can also see much higher IOPS than magician shows you, Samsung claimed to fix this with an future update of the software which they never do...


----------



## qwerty drive

Think i may have found the issue, My event viewer under system tab is flooded with this weird error "The Microsoft .NET Framework NGEN v3.0.40314_X64 service has reported an invalid current state 120." thousands of times over.. not sure what the heck is going on? need to boot into safe mode to stop it.


----------



## jeanns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> VRM cooling. It's ugly; It's noisy. As soon as I close my case the ugliness goes away. With my manual fan controllers I keep everything quiet enough for my taste. On a stress test it sounds like a propeller plane. I run 1.5 vcore stable on air. I have no fan behind the motherboard as my case is not well suited for that setup.
> 
> I have a new case coming in this week. I'll have to update the pics after I get everything installed on the Enthoo Pro.


Man.... Quite ugly xD

What's your new temps?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> I installed a Samsung 850 evo a few weeks ago into my gigabyte ud3 r5 and noticed i am getting quite bad benchmark results, AHCI is enabled and SATA 3 but not sure if the drive is using the AMD or Microsoft AHCI controller


Dont forget this, you have 2 sotrage interfaces:

- "AMD SATA Controller"
6 x SATA 6Gb/s connectors (SATA3 0~5) - AMD southbridge chipset SATA controller - In you case using AMD SATA drivers

- "Standard SATA AHCI Controller"
Marvell® 88SE9172 chip: eSATA controller.
2 x eSATA 6Gb/s connectors on the back panel - In you case using Microsoft default SATA drivers


----------



## qwerty drive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Dont forget this, you have 2 sotrage interfaces:
> 
> - "AMD SATA Controller"
> 6 x SATA 6Gb/s connectors (SATA3 0~5) - AMD southbridge chipset SATA controller - In you case using AMD SATA drivers
> 
> - "Standard SATA AHCI Controller"
> Marvell® 88SE9172 chip: eSATA controller.
> 2 x eSATA 6Gb/s connectors on the back panel - In you case using Microsoft default SATA drivers


Pretty sure this port is the correct one but benchmark speeds are still a little off, Probably need to switch to the Microsoft AHCI driver if it's not using that already. The ssd partition is aligned correctly

http://i65.tinypic.com/2hzo7c2.jpg


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> *Does anyone know how to load up. Bios defaults without turning on the PC*? I think popping the battery will work, but I need a definitive answer. Thanks!
> 
> I removed my MOSFET and nb heatsink. Then I removed the heat spreading pad from the vrm heatsink and replaced it with thermal paste. I hope I did a good job, but I don't know yet. I wish I would have underclocked and undervolted first because I don't want to fire up (pun intended) my PC with these changes at 1.5 vcore. That is the current setting.


Try the Power On, then Long Press the Power Button before the Bios loads up. Most of the time, it reverts to safe mode (at least on Asus boards).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> *Does anyone know how to load up. Bios defaults without turning on the PC*? I think popping the battery will work, but I need a definitive answer. Thanks!
> 
> I removed my MOSFET and nb heatsink. Then I removed the heat spreading pad from the vrm heatsink and replaced it with thermal paste. I hope I did a good job, but I don't know yet. I wish I would have underclocked and undervolted first because I don't want to fire up (pun intended) my PC with these changes at 1.5 vcore. That is the current setting.
> 
> 
> 
> Try the Power On, then Long Press the Power Button before the Bios loads up. Most of the time, it reverts to safe mode (at least on Asus boards).
Click to expand...

does not work on gigabyte


----------



## qwerty drive

Yet another UD3 Board is out...

http://www.gigabyte.no/products/page/mb/ga-990fxa-ud3_ultrarev_10/overview/

My ud3 r5 feels outdated already


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *qwerty drive*
> 
> Yet another UD3 Board is out...
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.no/products/page/mb/ga-990fxa-ud3_ultrarev_10/overview/
> 
> My ud3 r5 feels outdated already


If they could make only 1 good board... My last board was the Gigabyte Gaming G1 and i NEVER and i repeat NEVER buy gigabyte again.. they all failed me within a year... I owned 4 Gigabyte boards and non of them was able to handle even the modest overclock 24/7 stable not even speaking about what hassles i had to go through with their ******ed BIOS...


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> If they could make only 1 good board... My last board was the Gigabyte Gaming G1 and i NEVER and i repeat NEVER buy gigabyte again.. they all failed me within a year... I owned 4 Gigabyte boards and non of them was able to handle even the modest overclock 24/7 stable not even speaking about what hassles i had to go through with their ******ed BIOS...


Wait, the Gaming died???I missed that one! Wow...Talk about adding insult to injury... I had warned you about the BIOS though and that you would end up hating it. Happens to everyone.







I swear, there are days, that i feel an impulse to rip the UD3P off the case, smash it with a hammer and even put the Asrock extreme3 back. Poor motherboard, maybe has half the phases, but it's very docile and everything you do in BIOS actually works!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Wait, the Gaming died???I missed that one! Wow...Talk about adding insult to injury... I had warned you about the BIOS though and that you would end up hating it. Happens to everyone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I swear, there are days, that i feel an impulse to rip the UD3P off the case, smash it with a hammer and even put the Asrock extreme3 back. Poor motherboard, maybe has half the phases, but it's very docile and everything you do in BIOS actually works!


Yeah it died.. and yes you told me so so i guess you have the right to say: "i told you so" LOL

Seriously, its the worst board i had in years.. i am not kidding, the BIOS is that crippled that its almost impossible to overclock at all... when ever i tried to change something in BIOS and reboot it sometimes doesn't even boot and i have to press the reset button even with minor changes but it doesn't stop there. Buildquality is also rather poor because the audio jack on the back side died on me and the board is not even half a year old... this is also the second board that went bad on me because the first one had even worse problems and wouldn't even boot properly anymore and i got frequent shut downs...

These things can really infuriate me and makes me wanna put this board up their where the sun doesn't shine...

I am not kidding, i installed the Sabertooth R3.0 and set an quick OC and it works right of the bat... i booted in Windows and everything feels so much faster and snappier. It appeared that the Gigabyte also had problems with my 2400MHz Trident kit which the Sabertooth loves it.. Probably i can tweak a lot more but as for now i am happy as it is.
Tomorrow i am going to send the Gigacrap board back to the retail store and they told me that i can get an credit or i can choose something from their store for the same price as the motherboard.

Great service from them and that's why i always buy important stuff from them. I also wrote a nice review about them on Tweakers.net as an thank you for their excellent support.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Yeah it died.. and yes you told me so so i guess you have the right to say: "i told you so" LOL
> 
> Seriously, its the worst board i had in years.. i am not kidding, the BIOS is that crippled that its almost impossible to overclock at all... when ever i tried to change something in BIOS and reboot it sometimes doesn't even boot and i have to press the reset button even with minor changes but it doesn't stop there. Buildquality is also rather poor because the audio jack on the back side died on me and the board is not even half a year old... this is also the second board that went bad on me because the first one had even worse problems and wouldn't even boot properly anymore and i got frequent shut downs...
> 
> These things can really infuriate me and makes me wanna put this board up their where the sun doesn't shine...
> 
> I am not kidding, i installed the Sabertooth R3.0 and set an quick OC and it works right of the bat... i booted in Windows and everything feels so much faster and snappier. It appeared that the Gigabyte also had problems with my 2400MHz Trident kit which the Sabertooth loves it.. Probably i can tweak a lot more but as for now i am happy as it is.
> Tomorrow i am going to send the Gigacrap board back to the retail store and they told me that i can get an credit or i can choose something from their store for the same price as the motherboard.
> 
> Great service from them and that's why i always buy important stuff from them. I also wrote a nice review about them on Tweakers.net as an thank you for their excellent support.


Wow, it didn't even last a year... I know about the overclock problems. My case doesn't even have a reset button and i had to use the PSU power switch, because it said that for 4Ghz, the settings that i 've been using for ages, suddenly weren't good. And i had to use the PSU switch... Talk about hard freeze... The problem is, i even have a 2nd one (spare). Now i facepalm myself.

Mine had trouble seeing the RAM size. WHen i installed all 4 modules, it was saying that i had 12GB installed instead of 16. At the end it saw 16 after i...changed order in the RAM sticks.







Mine doesn't want to die, but i also can't get the front USB3 to see my flash sticks, so i run them as USB 2. Typical Gigabyte buggy BIOS.

You have a VERY nice store there. Here there is no way they 'd do that. Best case, they 'd say "initiate the RMA procedure and we will send you the same mobo when we can".

It's unbelievable, but it seems that if you want a troublefree motherboard that is also capable to hold volts, the only choice is Asus. It's amazing, how Gigabyte ignores the fact that their BIOSes seem written by a drunk monkey.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Wow, it didn't even last a year... I know about the overclock problems. My case doesn't even have a reset button and i had to use the PSU power switch, because it said that for 4Ghz, the settings that i 've been using for ages, suddenly weren't good. And i had to use the PSU switch... Talk about hard freeze... The problem is, i even have a 2nd one (spare). Now i facepalm myself.
> 
> Mine had trouble seeing the RAM size. WHen i installed all 4 modules, it was saying that i had 12GB installed instead of 16. At the end it saw 16 after i...changed order in the RAM sticks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine doesn't want to die, but i also can't get the front USB3 to see my flash sticks, so i run them as USB 2. Typical Gigabyte buggy BIOS.
> 
> You have a VERY nice store there. Here there is no way they 'd do that. Best case, they 'd say "initiate the RMA procedure and we will send you the same mobo when we can".
> 
> It's unbelievable, but it seems that if you want a troublefree motherboard that is also capable to hold volts, the only choice is Asus. It's amazing, how Gigabyte ignores the fact that their BIOSes seem written by a drunk monkey.


No not even a year.. how incompetent can you be as an motherboard manufacturer.. lol

Now i had the same thing as you to be honest, i know where the limitations of my chip is and all of a sudden it was unstable for no reason at all... and after that i got all kinds of weird issues and freezes etc. etc. you name it and it happened.. a real nightmare. Haha i feel sorry for you that you have the same as an spare...
Strange thing is is that the UD5 rev 1.1 was actually quite solid, all hell breaks loose when they inter graded their pathetic excuse of an BIOS/UEFI...

Yes i am very very happy with this kind of service and that is why i choose my retail stores so carefully. But if they do not provide the kind of service which is suitable in my situation they are going to have a very bad day i tell you.. because i will fill in a complaint against them to a bureau that monitors service and if they do not meet those standards the bureau will make sure they WILL oblige me lol

Yes Asus makes very good boards. I had some troubles with the Sabertooth R2.0 too but i am not sure what was causing this and i think it was the bad PSU that was the cause because after a new one i didn't have these problems anymore but unfortunately i exchanged it for Giganightmare... lol

Asus actually listens to their customers and you can see that through the boards layout. I have now 2 USB 3.0 headers on the motherboard, one is slightly inconvenient in some cases and the other is just perfect... they also add an possibility to ad an additional 40mm fan to cool the vrm's.. I mean, its just the little things that makes it great.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> No not even a year.. how incompetent can you be as an motherboard manufacturer.. lol
> 
> Now i had the same thing as you to be honest, i know where the limitations of my chip is and all of a sudden it was unstable for no reason at all... and after that i got all kinds of weird issues and freezes etc.


It didn't live up to the name of "ultradurable", did it...








How odd that different motherboards show the same bugs, eh... Or maybe not so odd. I think i remember Stilt saying that their AMD BIOSes, are modified Intel BIOSes. I am not 100% sure he said exactly that, but it would explain the blunder they 're doing.

Quote:


> Haha i feel sorry for you that you have the same as an spare...


Yeah, i feel sorry for me too. This is why at the end i bought also 1 Biostar TA970 Plus. This will be my first replacement, when hopefully this Gigabyte burns.







It's 6+1 phase only, but for 4Ghz it should be plenty. And has even undervolting options in BIOS for all P-States (no need for AMD Msr Tweaker!)
Quote:


> Yes i am very very happy with this kind of service and that is why i choose my retail stores so carefully. But if they do not provide the kind of service which is suitable in my situation they are going to have a very bad day i tell you.. because i will fill in a complaint against them to a bureau that monitors service and if they do not meet those standards the bureau will make sure they WILL oblige me lol


Here there is no bureau and the only kind of service they are expected by law to do, is RMA... Nice bureaus you have there!
Quote:


> Asus actually listens to their customers and you can see that through the boards layout. I have now 2 USB 3.0 headers on the motherboard, one is slightly inconvenient in some cases and the other is just perfect... they also add an possibility to ad an additional 40mm fan to cool the vrm's.. I mean, its just the little things that makes it great.


Well, you did get the best AM3+ of their current lineup... I am glad you 're happy.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> It didn't live up to the name of "ultradurable", did it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How odd that different motherboards show the same bugs, eh... Or maybe not so odd. I think i remember Stilt saying that their AMD BIOSes, are modified Intel BIOSes. I am not 100% sure he said exactly that, but it would explain the blunder they 're doing.
> Yeah, i feel sorry for me too. This is why at the end i bought also 1 Biostar TA970 Plus. This will be my first replacement, when hopefully this Gigabyte burns.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's 6+1 phase only, but for 4Ghz it should be plenty. And has even undervolting options in BIOS for all P-States (no need for AMD Msr Tweaker!)
> Here there is no bureau and the only kind of service they are expected by law to do, is RMA... Nice bureaus you have there!
> Well, you did get the best AM3+ of their current lineup... I am glad you 're happy.


LMAO, no it sure didn't lives up to the standard of "ultra durable" by a long shot.. well, ultra durable is only an perception, for them ultra durable means only 1 year, their other boards die in pretty short order lol

Burn that evil Gigacrap board..at least you have some pleasure with it lol

Well i don't know where you are from but here its common law if i am correct. It means that there is one common UCC law (uniform commercial code) that means that everywhere in europe they have to obey that law. The service i get from my retail store is actually an extra service but after 2 motherboards went bad on me in pretty short order i have the right to get my money back or another product for the same price.

Thnx man,Yes this the best board out there, its a bit pricey tho but its worth every penny if you ask me. I mean, look at the BIOS for instance, it just screams quality and than the build quality of the board itself, its really heavy, much heavier than the Gigacrap G1... it screams for good benchmark scores and high clock speeds which i will try when it cools down a bit..


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> LMAO, no it sure didn't lives up to the standard of "ultra durable" by a long shot.. well, ultra durable is only an perception, for them ultra durable means only 1 year, their other boards die in pretty short order lol
> 
> Burn that evil Gigacrap board..at least you have some pleasure with it lol
> 
> Well i don't know where you are from but here its common law if i am correct. It means that there is one common UCC law (uniform commercial code) that means that everywhere in europe they have to obey that law. The service i get from my retail store is actually an extra service but after 2 motherboards went bad on me in pretty short order i have the right to get my money back or another product for the same price.
> 
> Thnx man,Yes this the best board out there, its a bit pricey tho but its worth every penny if you ask me. I mean, look at the BIOS for instance, it just screams quality and than the build quality of the board itself, its really heavy, much heavier than the Gigacrap G1... it screams for good benchmark scores and high clock speeds which i will try when it cools down a bit..


LOL! I think you were particularly unlucky, Gigabyte boards do have the lowest RMA rates, according to hardware.fr data, but some models have worse than others. I noticed that in the UD3P 2.0, there is also a wave of DOA in Newegg. So it must be a batch issue too. But it's certainly a disappointment when a board can't even last a year. Here in Italy, the only EU directive that i am aware of, is the responsibility of the retailer, to RMA the board for 2 years. Apart that, good luck in convincing anymore to change to another product. Here, AFAIK, only if the RMA can't work, due to impossibility to find the same board, you are entitled to a coupon, that you can use to buy another product. Only then. If the retailer can send the board back to the manufacturer and he has replacement, there is no way they will accept what your shop accepted to do for you. You 're lucky.

Really, Gigabyte , i don't care if they build better models often, is so annoying with the odd behaviour, that i 'd rather buy Asrock again than Gigabyte. I can imagine how you are happy with the new Sabertooth. Did you read often about complaints for weird behaviour in ASUS? No... Sometimes they need a fan, but otherwise they work. That's how they remain #1,


----------



## mus1mus

It didn't break for crying out loud!

It's a too familiar scenario all over again.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> It didn't break for crying out loud!
> 
> It's a too familiar scenario all over again.


what...? i think you live in a different reality bro lol

the audio jack on the back side of the board died.. only the left side worked, when i plugged in to the front jack it worked proley.. how is that not broken then...?

i see what you are trying to pull off here, i am not stupid.. just stop it and read what i said what was wrong with the board and than tell me its not broken again...


----------



## mus1mus

You broke it. In case you too unaware of it, it's classified as PHYSICAL DAMAGE.

Either proper/improper use, it's a kind of thing you as a user should be able to resolve 100% of the time. So stop saying BS in 4 paragraphs when all that's wrong with the board is the AUDIO JACK!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You broke it. In case you too unaware of it, it's classified as PHYSICAL DAMAGE.
> 
> Either proper/improper use, it's a kind of thing you as a user should be able to resolve 100% of the time. So stop saying BS in 4 paragraphs when all that's wrong with the board is the AUDIO JACK!


I don't know if you are slightly stupid or what... i plug the 3,5inch jack in the motherboard and that's it... never touch it again, never have to either.. in what world is that use error lol

So basically what you are saying is that 100% of the time when a board or some components breaks, its improper usage...?

All what is wrong with it is just the audio jack...? didn't read about the BSOD's, system freezes etc.?

I am not the one who is spreading BS, its YOU.


----------



## mus1mus

You're making up BS.
Quote:


> Either proper/improper use


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> You're making up BS.


Can't read it, can you make it a little bigger...?









Making words bigger doesn't mean you're more right...


----------



## mus1mus

I know.

Was right the first time!


----------



## hurricane28




----------



## MishelLngelo

Did I miss something or Gigabyte ruined their products with later versions of MB ?
Here I am using GA-990XA-UD3 (rev. 1.1) last 3 years, first with Phenom II 965BE @4.2GHz and last year with FX 6350 @ over 4.8 GHZ in 24/7 operation and nothing broke yet.


----------



## Mega Man

They work. They just have bios quirks.

It depends on how you use them


----------



## MishelLngelo

I'm using Legacy BIOS, one of the quirks may be that it reports that settings are wrong on anything but stock, auto settings. BIG red letters, could scare somebody out of OCing. BIOS is F14b, don't want to change because I heard that last one kills LLC. Can anybody confirm that ? I think "b" is for beta while the last BIOS on the site is F14e. It had F10 when I received MB and "b" was last one when I upgraded to it.
I am force cooling NB and VRM over stock heat sinks.


----------



## bigdayve

I tried replacing the VRM heat spreading pad with thermal paste and it failed









I couldn't get enough contact between the heatsink and the mofsets. There simply are not enough bolts holding the heatsink on to get even cooling without using the pad.

Side note, I also broke a bolt which was annoying to replace ><


----------



## Mega Man

:/ that sucks


----------



## taowulf

VRM cooling? Ehem.



Works great for me


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> VRM cooling? Ehem.
> 
> 
> 
> Works great for me


Those are nice. Did you use thermal paste with that mod? What are you using on the NB?

Those heatsinks are a little bit expensive and hard to find IIRC.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Those are nice. Did you use thermal paste with that mod? What are you using on the NB?
> 
> Those heatsinks are a little bit expensive and hard to find IIRC.


Thermal paste. My NB cooling was separate and I have left it in place. I did pick up a few things to try at the time, but nothing fit with the proximity to the GPU.

They may be harder to find now, but I think I got them on Performance PCs a couple of years ago.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Thermal paste. My NB cooling was separate and I have left it in place. I did pick up a few things to try at the time, but nothing fit with the proximity to the GPU.
> 
> They may be harder to find now, but I think I got them on Performance PCs a couple of years ago.


I see. I guess you have an older version? I have the 4.0. I think having the two heatsinks connected also makes it harder to make firm contact with the motherboard. The heating pad helps even out the pressure and contact.

Just curious, how many points is your heatsink connected on? If I were to go with a setup like yours, I would only have two connection points and I'd be concerned that I wouldn't get even pressure using thermal paste.


----------



## Mega Man

You can make a back plate


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I see. I guess you have an older version? I have the 4.0. I think having the two heatsinks connected also makes it harder to make firm contact with the motherboard. The heating pad helps even out the pressure and contact.
> 
> Just curious, how many points is your heatsink connected on? If I were to go with a setup like yours, I would only have two connection points and I'd be concerned that I wouldn't get even pressure using thermal paste.


Two. Had to finagle it a little to get it to work. With all the spare screws I had laying around, it didn't take long. The only problem with the NB coolers I tried is that they were all too tall. The NB is now the hottest monitored component on the board.

But I was trying large passive heatsinks, I din't try anything with low profile or with a fan.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can make a back plate


Yeah I thought about that. I guess I could use any sheet of hard plastic. If I went for metal I'd have to ground the back-plate with something.

I rebuilt my PC and replaced the case. My VRM temps have dropped quite a bit. I have a fan behind the socket and better case cooling. I tried for a new max OC of 4.7ghz. I ran the vcore up to 1.53125 and the VRM temps topped out at 83C during IBT AVX very hard. The CPU went to 73C and it failed around 12 rounds or so. The Hyper 212 Evo (and high voltage) is finally the limitation of my OC








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taowulf*
> 
> Two. Had to finagle it a little to get it to work. With all the spare screws I had laying around, it didn't take long. The only problem with the NB coolers I tried is that they were all too tall. The NB is now the hottest monitored component on the board.
> 
> But I was trying large passive heatsinks, I din't try anything with low profile or with a fan.


Nice job on the VRM cooler. It sounds like your NB is cool enough, despite being the hottest component. You could always put a fan on it if you have not already.


----------



## onurbulbul




----------



## Mega Man

I don't know what you mean by grounding it. You would want to use a thick thermal pad to electrically insulate it


----------



## mus1mus

2mm pads. Or those rubber electrical tape to insulate.

The back plate is aimed to flatten the pcb as it has been seen to warp.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## bigdayve

I'm trying to control for PCB warp by keeping VRM temps under 90C at all times. Would that work? I can't seem to find a good source, but for some reason I thought 90C was an upper limit for PCB in general.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*


So it looks like you figured out your throttling problem!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't know what you mean by grounding it. You would want to use a thick thermal pad to electrically insulate it


Is that a smarta** comment? Sometimes it's difficult to tell by text. By grounding I mean using stuff to decrease the buildup of static electricity. I think you're describing much the same thing with "electrically insulate."


----------



## mus1mus

90C may be on the low end of temps that can create warping to the PCB. However, you have to note that the heatsink is actually pushing into the PCB. That small amount of pressure and a small amount of heat can cause the PCB to warp by a tiny degree that can cause poor contact.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I'm trying to control for PCB warp by keeping VRM temps under 90C at all times. Would that work? I can't seem to find a good source, but for some reason I thought 90C was an upper limit for PCB in general.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So it looks like you figured out your throttling problem!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't know what you mean by grounding it. You would want to use a thick thermal pad to electrically insulate it
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is that a smarta** comment? Sometimes it's difficult to tell by text. By grounding I mean using stuff to decrease the buildup of static electricity. I think you're describing much the same thing with "electrically insulate."
Click to expand...

If you would like me to be a "smart" guy I can. (Big hint mus even agreed with me) you don't need to ground it that is something you do to yourself keep yourself from shocking it. You need to insulate it. Maybe English isn't your first language if so maybe there is an issue in the translation?


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> If you would like me to be a "smart" guy I can. (Big hint mus even agreed with me) you don't need to ground it that is something you do to yourself keep yourself from shocking it. You need to insulate it. Maybe English isn't your first language if so maybe there is an issue in the translation?


I see. I've heard grounding used in the context of protecting devices from electrical shock even when people are nowhere near the devices. The basic idea of grounding AFAIK is to diffuse electricity. I guess in this case, by insulating the device it's preventing the buildup of electricity in the first place as opposed to diffusing it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> 90C may be on the low end of temps that can create warping to the PCB. However, you have to note that the heatsink is actually pushing into the PCB. That small amount of pressure and a small amount of heat can cause the PCB to warp by a tiny degree that can cause poor contact.


Well, I'll put that on my to do list. Maybe the next time I reapply thermal paste to my CPU, I'll fashion a backplate for the board. Perhaps it's already slightly warped and that is why it doesn't make good contact with thermal paste on the MOFSETs.


----------



## jclafi

You don´t missed a thing...

I´m also using GA-990FXA-UD5 (rev3.0) for the last 4 years, [email protected], [email protected], [email protected] With tons of voltages all around the MotherBoard....

The M.B just handle it, a real fighter... Got to love those ultra durable series... You punish it, punish it, and the thing is always bagging for more ! I do have great cooling on it....









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Did I miss something or Gigabyte ruined their products with later versions of MB ?
> Here I am using GA-990XA-UD3 (rev. 1.1) last 3 years, first with Phenom II 965BE @4.2GHz and last year with FX 6350 @ over 4.8 GHZ in 24/7 operation and nothing broke yet.


----------



## jclafi

From my experience overclocking Gigabyte boards looks like we have a PEBKAC here !

A true winner !

Amazing !









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> If they could make only 1 good board... My last board was the Gigabyte Gaming G1 and i NEVER and i repeat NEVER buy gigabyte again.. they all failed me within a year... I owned 4 Gigabyte boards and non of them was able to handle even the modest overclock 24/7 stable not even speaking about what hassles i had to go through with their ******ed BIOS...


----------



## mrgnex

I bought a UD3 rev1.2 for my dad to replace a 970 chipset motherboard with broken sound. I thought it would be an easy swap but that does not seem to be the case. I swapped out the motherboards and updated the BIOS. To my disappointment the BIOS does not seem to have a uefi although the product page says it has a "touch BIOS". Anyway, after updating I checked all settings and modified all the necessary ones including the boot order but after booting it stops at a underscore flashing. Any idea on what to do? Is a reinstall really necessary?


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> I bought a UD3 rev1.2 for my dad to replace a 970 chipset motherboard with broken sound. I thought it would be an easy swap but that does not seem to be the case. I swapped out the motherboards and updated the BIOS. To my disappointment the BIOS does not seem to have a uefi although the product page says it has a "touch BIOS". Anyway, after updating I checked all settings and modified all the necessary ones including the boot order but after booting it stops at a underscore flashing. Any idea on what to do? Is a reinstall really necessary?


Are you saying the Bios loads, but not the OS?


----------



## MishelLngelo

Touch BIOS is a Windows utility, a program to do certain things in BIOS from windows.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Are you saying the Bios loads, but not the OS?


Exactly.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Touch BIOS is a Windows utility, a program to do certain things in BIOS from windows.


Ah I see. Sounds logical. Thanks









EDIT: The SSD is formatted as GPT and UEFI. Maybe that is not compatible?


----------



## onurbulbul

I've tried LLC setting today. When It's extreme seems more stable. For example if I set cpu core volt to 1.356 from bios stock volt and LLC medium volts are playing between 1.344 If I set LLC Extreme it goes to 1.428. I will play with extreme LLC then I will see if there is any change.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Exactly.
> Ah I see. Sounds logical. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: The SSD is formatted as GPT and UEFI. Maybe that is not compatible?


It sounds like driver issues. Can you get any boot media to load at all? Maybe an OS repair disk could fix it.


----------



## Mega Man

if you need extreme llc, you just need to add vcore. you should not need extreme


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> It sounds like driver issues. Can you get any boot media to load at all? Maybe an OS repair disk could fix it.


If I boot from a Windows USB it hangs on this message:

Loading Operating System..
_

Weird..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I've tried LLC setting today. When It's extreme seems more stable. For example if I set cpu core volt to 1.356 from bios stock volt and LLC medium volts are playing between 1.344 If I set LLC Extreme it goes to 1.428. I will play with extreme LLC then I will see if there is any change.


You do know what LLC is right? Just adjust the LLC to counter the VDROP. Do not let it overvolt. No point.


----------



## onurbulbul




----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


I am sorry but we told you about a thousand times that your vrm's are overheating and yet again we see that your temps hit 94c during full load and your CPU is trotting down because of it.. (its VR T1 and VR T2 btw)

If you want to blow up your motherboard go ahead like you are doing now.. if you want stable system add vrm cooling...


----------



## hurricane28

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Here are some BIOS screenshots of my previous Gigabyte board. Hopefully it is helpful for you.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I am sorry but we told you about a thousand times that your vrm's are overheating and yet again we see that your temps hit 94c during full load and your CPU is trotting down because of it.. (its VR T1 and VR T2 btw)
> 
> If you want to blow up your motherboard go ahead like you are doing now.. if you want stable system add vrm cooling...


I didn't give any extra volt. Even made undervolt.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I didn't give any extra volt. Even made undervolt.


Do you understand what i am saying...?


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Do you understand what i am saying...?


I do understand. I am just trying to say what kind of board is this gigabyte that is getting high temps with out oc


----------



## onurbulbul

How could I delete in bios saved oc profiles?


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> If I boot from a Windows USB it hangs on this message:
> 
> Loading Operating System..
> _
> 
> Weird..


I have made a video on which I record the boot. Might that be useful?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I do understand. I am just trying to say what kind of board is this gigabyte that is getting high temps with out oc


That is because of the poor vrm design and the cooling is not much better.. that is why i like my Sabertooth so much more than Gigabyte..

Do yourself a favor and start adding some cooling on your vrms and you are able to overclock on that board... continue like this will only frustrate you and end up with broken hardware, i guarantee it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I do understand. I am just trying to say what kind of board is this gigabyte that is getting high temps with out oc


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> How could I delete in bios saved oc profiles?


go to that Oc profile and hit delete...?


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I do understand. I am just trying to say what kind of board is this gigabyte that is getting high temps with out oc


Maybe your motherboard's PCB has warped and the VRM heatsink isn't making full contact with the VRMs anymore? It has happened to some Gigabyte users before.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Maybe your motherboard's PCB has warped and the VRM heatsink isn't making full contact with the VRMs anymore? It has happened to some Gigabyte users before.


How could it be possible to fix this problem?


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> How could it be possible to fix this problem?


Remove the heatsink and check if it is still straight. If not you are out of luck. If it is straight maybe swap thermal pads/thermal paste.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> How could it be possible to fix this problem?


I don't think it's fixable. Warping happens because of excessive heat. If the warping is slight, you may get away with installing a slightly thicker thermal pad (for example try a 1 mm thick). I remember some photos in this forum from Giga 990FX UD3 R3.0, where the motherboard was visibly very warped. You could see it without removing the heatsink or anything. Just looking at the PCB from the back, was enough to notice a large curve, which was causing some of the mosfets to lose good contact with the heatsink. The guys affected eventually bought new motherboards, of different models.


----------



## hurricane28

who is saying that the board is warped? The vrm heat sinks on the Gigabyte boards are laughable to be honest... first try to add a fan blowing on the vrm's than see if it makes an difference if not, than look for warp board.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by mrgnex View Post
> 
> If I boot from a Windows USB it hangs on this message:
> 
> Loading Operating System..
> _
> 
> Weird..
> 
> 
> I have made a video on which I record the boot. Might that be useful?


Pretty please?


----------



## MishelLngelo

Are you by any chance using USB3 port ?


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Are you by any chance using USB3 port ?


One of the top red ones. I do not know if that is 3.0..


----------



## MishelLngelo

Red are USB2, Blue are USB3. so that's not a problem. Which Windows and how did you make boot USB ? In the BIOS first boot device should be set as USB-HDD.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> Red are USB2, Blue are USB3. so that's not a problem. Which Windows and how did you make boot USB ? In the BIOS first boot device should be set as USB-HDD.


I downloaded the ISO with the MediaCreationTool. I then formatted the USB as GPT and copied Windows onto it with Rufus. The USB works, I know that. I had that option indeed. I tried all of them in fact. Is it maybe dead?


----------



## MishelLngelo

That should work, are you using Legacy or UEFI mode in BIOS ?


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> That should work, are you using Legacy or UEFI mode in BIOS ?


The only option I found that sounded remotely similair to this was "EFI" so I enabled that. I also triple checked that everything is on AHCI and SATA..


----------



## MishelLngelo

(Universal)EFI, that's same thing.
In Rufus, when partition scheme is set to "MBR partition scheme for BIOS or UEFI-CSM" Than it defaults on NTFS for USB. If set to GPT than it defaults on Fat32.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> (Universal)EFI, that's same thing.
> In Rufus, when partition scheme is set to "MBR partition scheme for BIOS or UEFI-CSM" Than it defaults on NTFS for USB. If set to GPT than it defaults on Fat32.


Oh hmm I'll try to format it again. I still don't het why it doesn't boot from the ssd anyway..

Edit: still nothing.. Still saying:

Loading Operating System ...
_

With the underscore flickering... I really do not get this..


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> who is saying that the board is warped? The vrm heat sinks on the Gigabyte boards are laughable to be honest... first try to add a fan blowing on the vrm's than see if it makes an difference if not, than look for warp board.


I agree. Checking for board warp would be more effort than just adding a fan, so I would add a fan first and see if it fixes the problem. If not, then check for board warp. Under stress testing at 4.6ghz, I turn my fans up high and I never go past the mid 70's C with ambient temp at 23C.

Here are my temps with my fan setup:


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I agree. Checking for board warp would be more effort than just adding a fan, so I would add a fan first and see if it fixes the problem. If not, then check for board warp. Under stress testing at 4.6ghz, I turn my fans up high and I never go past the mid 70's C with ambient temp at 23C.
> 
> Here are my temps with my fan setup:


Nice rig you got there dude









Your vrm's get a bit toasty though lol but if you are stable i would not worry to much about it to be honest.

Here is my setup:




As you can see i have my Corsair SP120L fan pulling air away from the socket, i always had it blowing on the socket but after a smart moment i decided to turn the fan around so it now sucks the hot air away from the socket which results in lower temps. Its also more quiet in this configuration.

Don't mind my cable management, its really hard in this case so i need an bigger one but i can't make up my mind which one to buy...


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> who is saying that the board is warped? The vrm heat sinks on the Gigabyte boards are laughable to be honest... first try to add a fan blowing on the vrm's than see if it makes an difference if not, than look for warp board.


Nobody said it's warped. It was a hypothesis. He gets 94C undervolted. I don't care how bad Gigabyte VRM heatsink is, this is totally abnormal. Even my Asrock 970 Extreme3 with its tiny VRM heatsink, doesn't arrive to such temperatures undervolted. Let alone a Gigabyte with double the phases and better heatsink. So i suggested to look for warp. Another thing that comes to mind, is maybe the thermal pad under the VRM heatsink is prematurely withered and has lost its properties. Not very likely, but i guess it can happen.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Nobody said it's warped. It was a hypothesis. He gets 94C undervolted. I don't care how bad Gigabyte VRM heatsink is, this is totally abnormal. Even my Asrock 970 Extreme3 with its tiny VRM heatsink, doesn't arrive to such temperatures undervolted. Let alone a Gigabyte with double the phases and better heatsink. So i suggested to look for warp. Another thing that comes to mind, is maybe the thermal pad under the VRM heatsink is prematurely withered and has lost its properties. Not very likely, but i guess it can happen.


ah i understand.

In that case i would take the heat sink off and investigate the thermal pads and thermal paste indeed.
First thing i do with boards that run hot is to check for thermal paste, most cases its very hard, waay to much applied and just bad quality. In my best case i got more than 10c difference with no fan attacked! I don't need to with the sabertooth as they do not get hot at all according to HWINFO64 and Asus Al suite 3.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> ah i understand.
> 
> In that case i would take the heat sink off and investigate the thermal pads and thermal paste indeed.
> First thing i do with boards that run hot is to check for thermal paste, most cases its very hard, waay to much applied and just bad quality. In my best case i got more than 10c difference with no fan attacked! I don't need to with the sabertooth as they do not get hot at all according to HWINFO64 and Asus Al suite 3.


Well, i don't need to either, cause i stay undervolted and at 4Ghz. But it's the only thing i could think of to justify 94C on the VRM. I had measured even the heatsink of the Asrock 970 extreme3 during x264 and it was 60C or less with the [email protected] (1.28v). So, why is he getting 94C on a much better board... Only warping and thermal pad comes to mind...

I have replaced the thermal pad of the extreme3, which i removed just out of curiocity and i wouldn't be surprised if they deteriorated. It was a white, rubbery thingy, that didn't inspire any confidence looking at it. It was rather pittyful i 'd say. I replaced with Arctic 1mm thermal pad and it was completely different in texture. Just by holding it, it was feeling more "serious". One thing to keep in mind, is that if the motherboard has thermal pad, you may need thermal pad for replacement, as if you put paste, the heatsink may become too loose (it happened to me with the asrock). I haven't measured the temps on the Asrock with the Arctic pad, but it works fine and given the cost for a tiny piece of pad, i am sure it's better than the rubbery thingie that Asrock had.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Well, i don't need to either, cause i stay undervolted and at 4Ghz. But it's the only thing i could think of to justify 94C on the VRM. I had measured even the heatsink of the Asrock 970 extreme3 during x264 and it was 60C or less with the [email protected] (1.28v). So, why is he getting 94C on a much better board... Only warping and thermal pad comes to mind...
> 
> I have replaced the thermal pad of the extreme3, which i removed just out of curiocity and i wouldn't be surprised if they deteriorated. It was a white, rubbery thingy, that didn't inspire any confidence looking at it. It was rather pittyful i 'd say. I replaced with Arctic 1mm thermal pad and it was completely different in texture. Just by holding it, it was feeling more "serious". One thing to keep in mind, is that if the motherboard has thermal pad, you may need thermal pad for replacement, as if you put paste, the heatsink may become too loose (it happened to me with the asrock). I haven't measured the temps on the Asrock with the Arctic pad, but it works fine and given the cost for a tiny piece of pad, i am sure it's better than the rubbery thingie that Asrock had.


----------



## Undervolter

For the record, i found the picture i had taken from the Asrock thermal pad.



The pad was i think thinner than 1mm (probably 0,5mm). In the parts where it's white, it's where the mosfets were. The rest has dust stuck in. All and all, very unimpressive, especially if one compares it with commercially available thermal pads.

This is courtesy of "Spawne32", Gigabyte thermal pad, with better resolution. It looks very similar to what i found in the Asrock, but looks thicker:



Both photos taken from this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1480821/still-no-matx-support-for-am3/110

In Spawne's case, removing the pad, revealed a burnt mosfet underneath, although the board was functioning.

The ironic thing with these "cheap looking pads", is that, most probably, if the manufacturer had put higher quality pads, the motherboard would have better overclock or heat tolerance and longevity. I also recall a few members, reporting that their pads were "crumbling" (probably deteriorated to the point of no return).


----------



## onurbulbul

From the CPU fan I made this setup for vrms. Will see if it will effect temps


----------



## onurbulbul

But not stable on IBT


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> 
> But not stable on IBT


I think it's still a bit warm for such low voltage, but it's certainly much better than before. I guess i should have suspected that you have water cooler... Hurricane's advice was good.


----------



## hurricane28

They are a bit toasty indeed and i remember seeing similar temps with my Gaming G1 board when i was pushing 1.35v though the CPU/NB.. so there is definitely something off here. How is your case airflow?

Is it an old board or did you buy it brand new? If the last one applied i would return this board ASAP and get an Asus board... trust me, you are going to be A LOT more happy.

I see that your DIMM voltage is too low, try to set it at 1.65V in BIOS.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> They are a bit toasty indeed and i remember seeing similar temps with my Gaming G1 board when i was pushing 1.35v though the CPU/NB.. so there is definitely something off here. How is your case airflow?
> 
> Is it an old board or did you buy it brand new? If the last one applied i would return this board ASAP and get an Asus board... trust me, you are going to be A LOT more happy.
> 
> I see that your DIMM voltage is too low, try to set it at 1.65V in BIOS.


I've bought it two months before. I can't do that now. 
Look 4.3Ghz same volt seems like stable.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> 
> From the CPU fan I made this setup for vrms. Will see if it will effect temps


I've post some pic.


----------



## onurbulbul

It's stable on OCCT but not IBT. Could someone tell me why?


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> It's stable on OCCT but not IBT. Could someone tell me why?


They are different stress tests. It could also be prime stable but not OCCT stable. It just differs..


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I've bought it two months before. I can't do that now.
> Look 4.3Ghz same volt seems like stable.


Well, if your board isn't performing and you have problems with it they have to give you a new board after you returned this one... Obviously its not working like it should so if i were you i would contact your retail store about this and demand refund and get Asus board ASAP.

There is no fix for Gigabyte crappy BIOS nor vrm over heating problems.. over a year ago there was a guy in this forum that had similar problems with Gigabyte boards.. they throttle like mad and he tried everything but nothing really helped, its just hard coded in the board itself. Because of Gigabyte's incompetence more and more people having trouble with their boards and end up selling it and buy Asus instead..

You can do something with the vrm's but its only temporarily and you blow up your board in pretty short order.. so my advice would be to get a different board from Asus which is within your budget and you are happier than ever before. Personally i would go for the Sabertooth R2.0 but if you have the money for it R3.0 is even better but that all depends on preferences.

btw, your DIMM is still reporting 1.488v.. set it to 1.65V in BIOS. That also can cause instability.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Well, if your board isn't performing and you have problems with it they have to give you a new board after you returned this one... Obviously its not working like it should so if i were you i would contact your retail store about this and demand refund and get Asus board ASAP.
> 
> There is no fix for Gigabyte crappy BIOS nor vrm over heating problems.. over a year ago there was a guy in this forum that had similar problems with Gigabyte boards.. they throttle like mad and he tried everything but nothing really helped, its just hard coded in the board itself. Because of Gigabyte's incompetence more and more people having trouble with their boards and end up selling it and buy Asus instead..
> 
> You can do something with the vrm's but its only temporarily and you blow up your board in pretty short order.. so my advice would be to get a different board from Asus which is within your budget and you are happier than ever before. Personally i would go for the Sabertooth R2.0 but if you have the money for it R3.0 is even better but that all depends on preferences.
> 
> btw, your DIMM is still reporting 1.488v.. set it to 1.65V in BIOS. That also can cause instability.


First of I really wanna thank you for your time. I will try to give it back if that is possible. I am using my memories at xmp profile so it's at recommended setting even like that should I set it to 1.65v ?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> First of I really wanna thank you for your time. I will try to give it back if that is possible. I am using my memories at xmp profile so it's at recommended setting even like that should I set it to 1.65v ?


No problem man









Yes, your ram is designed to run at 1.65V, sometimes Gigabyte boards need a little more voltage in BIOS in order to get 1.65V in Windows.

Here is the post i found for you about the vrm throttling: http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5090

This guy spend A LOT of time in these boards and Gigabyte simply refuses to answer him or are simply incompetent on making a decent board..

I am sure as hell never buy Gigabyte ever again...

Good luck with returning your board man, i really hope they will help you because the incompetence of Gigabyte is becoming the most taxing to say the least...

If you have any problems with returning the board, feel free to post about your conversation with your retail store, perhaps we can help you since this problem has to be dealt with shortly and swiftly.


----------



## Undervolter

Same page as the link provided by Hurricane, a bit lower, you can also see the effects of motherboard warping on the mosfets:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5090#post_19872718

(Just in case you have warping too).


----------



## bigdayve

Earlier I was on mobile and quoted undervolter incorrectly and it deleted my text. :/ I'm considering replacing the VRM thermal pad with something of a little higher quality. Also, I don't want to spend a whole lot of money.

I was wondering, does anyone know much about the stock VRM thermal pad? I couldn't out anything about it with some basic internet searches. It seems thermal pads are rated w/mk. Does anyone know what the w/mk rating is on UD3 thermal pads? I'm guessing it's probably under 5w/mk, but don't know.

I tried replacing the VRM thermal pad with thermal paste, but I found that it was difficult to get even contact between the mofsets and the heatsink. I posted pics several pages back.


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Oh hmm I'll try to format it again. I still don't het why it doesn't boot from the ssd anyway..
> 
> Edit: still nothing.. Still saying:
> 
> Loading Operating System ...
> _
> 
> With the underscore flickering... I really do not get this..


I think I'll give up. I probably will buy a new mobo. Thanks for your help!


----------



## onurbulbul

As you can see above I was finally stable on both program.Now I'm gonna go for memory overclocking.


----------



## onurbulbul

Well I've done some memory oc. I have corsair vengeance pro 16Gb 1600mhz 9-9-9-24. 1.5 v. I've tried 1866mhz 9-10-9-27 and 2133mhz 11-11-11-27 1.65v. I didn't see that much difference. I will share the pictures soon.


----------



## mus1mus

Coz in reality, it's not an Overclock.

RAM OC is misleading. But to give you an idea, if you can clock the RAM to 1866 from 1600 without modding the timings, that's an Overclock.

Or tighten the timings from default maintaining the clocks.

Latency increases with timings. And bandwidth cannot justify the loss more often than anything.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Coz in reality, it's not an Overclock.
> 
> RAM OC is misleading. But to give you an idea, if you can clock the RAM to 1866 from 1600 without modding the timings, that's an Overclock.
> 
> Or tighten the timings from default maintaining the clocks.
> 
> Latency increases with timings. And bandwidth cannot justify the loss more often than anything.


Thank you for the tip. First of all, I will go with higher frequency with as tighter timing as possible. But if not do you think is it better going for higher freq. with higher timing. or tighter timing with low freq. Thank you indeed.


----------



## zila

Question: does anyone here have the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R5 board? If so, are you experiencing a badly overheating unstable mother board? I just got this thing back from Giga after a so called "RMA" and they claim there is nothing wrong with the board after testing but this thing is crap.

I'm gonna take it apart myself and see if there is something that I can do to try and get this thing to cool down. It won't run an FX-9590, FX-8350 at stock. Over heats terribly. So I installed my 1090T in it and still it overheats horrible and it throttles...........................at stock!! If I can't get her straightened out I'll have to toss it cause it's useless. Brand new board and it's crap.

Has anyone found a solution to the over heating problem? Or are these boards just doomed?

Every one of there boards has one problem or another that if I can't find a way to mod it or find a work around they don't work as they should out of the box. Last Giga board I will ever buy. I'm done.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Question: does anyone here have the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R5 board? If so, are you experiencing a badly overheating unstable mother board? I just got this thing back from Giga after a so called "RMA" and they claim there is nothing wrong with the board after testing but this thing is crap.
> 
> I'm gonna take it apart myself and see if there is something that I can do to try and get this thing to cool down. It won't run an FX-9590, FX-8350 at stock. Over heats terribly. So I installed my 1090T in it and still it overheats horrible and it throttles...........................at stock!! If I can't get her straightened out I'll have to toss it cause it's useless. Brand new board and it's crap.
> 
> Has anyone found a solution to the over heating problem? Or are these boards just doomed?


One thing you should look at, is motherboard warping, like mentioned earlier. See here illustrated:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5090#post_19872718

Another case with Gigabyte board i remember in the forum, was someone with GIgabyte 78LMT USB3 that could barely stay at stock clock, while previously he could overclock a bit. It turned ouf that he had one burnt mosfet, which was revealed after removing the thermal pad. Just saying, these are possibilities that have happened before in the forum.

Quote:


> Every one of there boards has one problem or another that if I can't find a way to mod it or find a work around they don't work as they should out of the box. *Last Giga board I will ever buy. I'm done.*


Welcome aboard!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/62380


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> No problem man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, your ram is designed to run at 1.65V, sometimes Gigabyte boards need a little more voltage in BIOS in order to get 1.65V in Windows.
> 
> Here is the post i found for you about the vrm throttling: http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5090
> 
> This guy spend A LOT of time in these boards and Gigabyte simply refuses to answer him or are simply incompetent on making a decent board..
> 
> I am sure as hell never buy Gigabyte ever again...
> 
> Good luck with returning your board man, i really hope they will help you because the incompetence of Gigabyte is becoming the most taxing to say the least...
> 
> If you have any problems with returning the board, feel free to post about your conversation with your retail store, perhaps we can help you since this problem has to be dealt with shortly and swiftly.


The seller only has Gigabyte 990Fxa UD 5. Do you think has that mobo better oc capability?


----------



## zila

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> One thing you should look at, is motherboard warping, like mentioned earlier. See here illustrated:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5090#post_19872718
> 
> Another case with Gigabyte board i remember in the forum, was someone with GIgabyte 78LMT USB3 that could barely stay at stock clock, while previously he could overclock a bit. It turned ouf that he had one burnt mosfet, which was revealed after removing the thermal pad. Just saying, these are possibilities that have happened before in the forum.
> Welcome aboard!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/62380


Yeah, I guess I'm just frustrated with the Giga line of boards. If it ain't one thing wrong it's another. Then they go from one revision to another fixing absolutely nothing and just creating other problems on top of what you already have.

Well the board is brand new and hasn't been run much at all. It was faulty right out of the box. Started over heating within the first 5 minutes of run time. Mind you, it's not the processor over heating at all................it's the vrms both on the front of the board and the back. You can feel the heat just pouring off of this thing when it's running. According to HWinfo64 they were climbing to 100°C and above within a few seconds of stress testing with IBT or Prime95 or Aida64. I have looked at it very carefully and don't see any obvious signs of warping but I haven't taken the heat sink off of it just yet. I didn't want to void the warranty but seeing as how the warranty is useless with them I will have to see if I can repair this myself.

I am going to take the board apart today and see if I can't find something wrong that the damned Giga support guys didn't. Maybe there is something wrong under the heat sink or worse maybe there is physical damage to the board.

Thank you very much for the response, I know I am not alone in this which is why I came straight here with this. So many of you with the same gripes and I was looking for tips and solutions and to share my experience with you as well. Not a good one.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Yeah, I guess I'm just frustrated with the Giga line of boards. If it ain't one thing wrong it's another. Then they go from one revision to another fixing absolutely nothing and just creating other problems on top of what you already have.
> 
> Well the board is brand new and hasn't been run much at all. It was faulty right out of the box. Started over heating within the first 5 minutes of run time. Mind you, it's not the processor over heating at all................it's the vrms both on the front of the board and the back. You can feel the heat just pouring off of this thing when it's running. According to HWinfo64 they were climbing to 100°C and above within a few seconds of stress testing with IBT or Prime95 or Aida64. I have looked at it very carefully and don't see any obvious signs of warping but I haven't taken the heat sink off of it just yet. I didn't want to void the warranty but seeing as how the warranty is useless with them I will have to see if I can repair this myself.
> 
> I am going to take the board apart today and see if I can't find something wrong that the damned Giga support guys didn't. Maybe there is something wrong under the heat sink or worse maybe there is physical damage to the board.
> 
> Thank you very much for the response, I know I am not alone in this which is why I came straight here with this. So many of you with the same gripes and I was looking for tips and solutions and to share my experience with you as well. Not a good one.


You have my deepest solidarity. Unfortunately, i can't think of something else. Mine, the only good thing it has, is that it runs cool. I 've even overclocked stable to 4.5Ghz once, out of curiocity. So, i don't understand why you have so many troubles at stock. If you remove the thermal pad, be aware that you will have to replace it. You may use thermal paste temporarily, but it's better to put new thermal pad again.


----------



## zila

I have purchased some high quality thermal pads and paste just for this very reason. I'm hoping that maybe the over heating is due to a poor install and the factory thermal pad is insulating the vrm instead of allowing the heat to dissipate.

We shall see what happens after I perform surgery on this board.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Question: does anyone here have the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R5 board? If so, are you experiencing a badly overheating unstable mother board? I just got this thing back from Giga after a so called "RMA" and they claim there is nothing wrong with the board after testing but this thing is crap.
> 
> I'm gonna take it apart myself and see if there is something that I can do to try and get this thing to cool down. It won't run an FX-9590, FX-8350 at stock. Over heats terribly. So I installed my 1090T in it and still it overheats horrible and it throttles...........................at stock!! If I can't get her straightened out I'll have to toss it cause it's useless. Brand new board and it's crap.
> 
> Has anyone found a solution to the over heating problem? Or are these boards just doomed?
> 
> Every one of there boards has one problem or another that if I can't find a way to mod it or find a work around they don't work as they should out of the box. Last Giga board I will ever buy. I'm done.


I am sorry to inform you that Gigabyte boards are crap these days... If you have the chance, go back to your retail store and ask for refund or an Asus board for the same price. you have the right to get the product you pay for and this clearly isn't.

Unfortunately you are one of the victims of Gigabyte's incompetence.. I bought mine back a few weeks a go and got myself an Sabertooth R3.0 and the Difference is literally day and night. I really hope for you that your retail store is willing to help you man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Question: does anyone here have the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R5 board? If so, are you experiencing a badly overheating unstable mother board? I just got this thing back from Giga after a so called "RMA" and they claim there is nothing wrong with the board after testing but this thing is crap.
> 
> I'm gonna take it apart myself and see if there is something that I can do to try and get this thing to cool down. It won't run an FX-9590, FX-8350 at stock. Over heats terribly. So I installed my 1090T in it and still it overheats horrible and it throttles...........................at stock!! If I can't get her straightened out I'll have to toss it cause it's useless. Brand new board and it's crap.
> 
> Has anyone found a solution to the over heating problem? Or are these boards just doomed?
> 
> Every one of there boards has one problem or another that if I can't find a way to mod it or find a work around they don't work as they should out of the box. Last Giga board I will ever buy. I'm done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> One thing you should look at, is motherboard warping, like mentioned earlier. See here illustrated:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1023100/official-gigabyte-ga-990fxa-series-owners-thread-club/5090#post_19872718
> 
> Another case with Gigabyte board i remember in the forum, was someone with GIgabyte 78LMT USB3 that could barely stay at stock clock, while previously he could overclock a bit. It turned ouf that he had one burnt mosfet, which was revealed after removing the thermal pad. Just saying, these are possibilities that have happened before in the forum.
> Welcome aboard!
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/62380


Wauw, yet again we arrive at the aftermath of Gigabyte's incompetence.. i really think we should file a complaint against this company.. I am in contact with Gigabyte rep in the Netherlands, i will contact him about this because this is simply unacceptable. Maybe he can do something.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Question: does anyone here have the Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 R5 board? If so, are you experiencing a badly overheating unstable mother board? I just got this thing back from Giga after a so called "RMA" and they claim there is nothing wrong with the board after testing but this thing is crap.
> 
> I'm gonna take it apart myself and see if there is something that I can do to try and get this thing to cool down. It won't run an FX-9590, FX-8350 at stock. Over heats terribly. So I installed my 1090T in it and still it overheats horrible and it throttles...........................at stock!! If I can't get her straightened out I'll have to toss it cause it's useless. Brand new board and it's crap.
> 
> Has anyone found a solution to the over heating problem? Or are these boards just doomed?
> 
> Every one of there boards has one problem or another that if I can't find a way to mod it or find a work around they don't work as they should out of the box. Last Giga board I will ever buy. I'm done.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> The seller only has Gigabyte 990Fxa UD 5. Do you think has that mobo better oc capability?


I am very sorry man but the only way for you to enjoy your system again is to get a different board.. Gigabyte are all the same now, they use the same useless UEFI BIOS and have the same vrm hardware.. You can ask for your money back because the product you bought is simply not functioning correctly and you have the right for an product you pay for. I mean, you bought it with in mind that it could handle your CPU but it simply can't so in that case they have to give you your money back or give you replacement board which is similar or better.

Good luck.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Wauw, yet again we arrive at the aftermath of Gigabyte's incompetence.. i really think we should file a complaint against this company.. I am in contact with Gigabyte rep in the Netherlands, i will contact him about this because this is simply unacceptable. Maybe he can do something.


Ok. Tell him things really simple: "You need to fire your BIOS programming team, hire ASAP new programmers, and release a new bios for ALL your motherboards". Simple as that.


----------



## onurbulbul

What about this one SABERTOOTH 990FXR2.0?


----------



## onurbulbul

ASUS CROSSHAIR V FORMULA-Z This one is too expensive.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> What about this one SABERTOOTH 990FXR2.0?


The R3.0 was released recently, but even the R2.0 is better than any GIgabyte.


----------



## zila

I have the Sabertooth 990FX R2.0.......awesome board. I also have the Crosshair V Formula-Z.........top of the line best of the best. I will also get the new Sabertooth R3.0 eventually. So I know what a good 990 board is all about.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Ok. Tell him things really simple: "You need to fire your BIOS programming team, hire ASAP new programmers, and release a new bios for ALL your motherboards". Simple as that.


O believe me i will.. i don't think you are able to read it as its in Dutch but i try to translate for you when i emailed him.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Ok. Tell him things really simple: "You need to fire your BIOS programming team, hire ASAP new programmers, and release a new bios for ALL your motherboards". Simple as that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> What about this one SABERTOOTH 990FXR2.0?


I had that board. Its awesome for overclocking. The R3.0 is an beefed up version of the R2.0 and IMO if you do not have M.2 i see no reason why you want to spend the extra money for the R3.0 so i would go with the R2.0 if i were you.


----------



## onurbulbul

Well I gave up oc this mobo. Now I'm trying to underclock the cpu


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> Well I gave up oc this mobo. Now I'm trying to underclock the cpu


Look what Gigabyte does to aspiring overclockers!









Seriously, you have a good undervolter! 1.15v for 3.5 is very good! But, you should at least run 4Ghz. You can run it undervolted at 1.28v (inside windows) for sure. Since you have good undervolter, probably for a bit less too.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Look what Gigabyte does to aspiring overclockers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, you have a good undervolter! 1.15v for 3.5 is very good! But, you should at least run 4Ghz. You can run it undervolted at 1.28v (inside windows) for sure. Since you have good undervolter, probably for a bit less too.


I'm using SLI config. Even 4.0Ghz won't be enough I believe. Why should I run at least 4.0Ghz? Isn't 3.5 enough


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Look what Gigabyte does to aspiring overclockers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously, you have a good undervolter! 1.15v for 3.5 is very good! But, you should at least run 4Ghz. You can run it undervolted at 1.28v (inside windows) for sure. Since you have good undervolter, probably for a bit less too.


Yeah, they just discourage people to overclock on their boards with their incompetence lol

Actually, its not funny at all to be honest man. Its kinda sad and you should feel sorry for a company that is in the business for years and they still can't manufacture a decent board...


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I'm using SLI config. Even 4.0Ghz won't be enough I believe. Why should I run at least 4.0Ghz? Isn't 3.5 enough


Nope, IMO 4Ghz is very slow. that's because i am used to at least 4.8GHz. Never ran the chip at stock. In SLI your CPU will be the bottleneck even at 4.0Ghz to be honest. It depends on the title of course but if you play Crysis 3 for example, your CPU will definitely be the bottleneck.

You cannot get a deal with your retail store?


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Nope, IMO 4Ghz is very slow. that's because i am used to at least 4.8GHz. Never ran the chip at stock. In SLI your CPU will be the bottleneck even at 4.0Ghz to be honest. It depends on the title of course but if you play Crysis 3 for example, your CPU will definitely be the bottleneck.
> 
> You cannot get a deal with your retail store?


I cannot deal with them. They're really crazy. I'm trying to sell it from web


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I cannot deal with them. They're really crazy. I'm trying to sell it from web


Wauw, isn't there anything you can do? I mean, its a bad board and utterly useless... they HAVE to reason with you. Isn't there some complaint you can file in order for them to resolve your problem then?


----------



## 2WolfDesigns

I just picked up a 990-FXA UD3-Ultra today, as it was an open box special and not badly priced.I am running an older FX6300 processor for right now. Mainly becuase it has a M.2 port.
Here is my stats as of right now.

Processor (CPU)
CPU Name - AMD FX™-6300 Six-Core Processor
Threading -1 CPU - 6 Core - 6 Threads
Frequency -3516.1 MHz (17.5 * 200.92 MHz) - Uncore: 2009.2 MHz
Multiplier - Current: 17.5 / Min: 7 / Max: 20.5
Architecture - Vishera / OR-C0-Step (32 nm)
Cpuid / Ext. - F.2.0 / 15.2
IA Extensions
MMX(+), SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3, SSE4.1, SSE4.2, SSE4A, x86-64, AMD-V, AES, AVX, XOP, FMA3, FMA4
Caches - L1D : 16 KB / L2 : 2048 KB / L3 : 8192 KB
Caches Assoc. - L1D : 4-way / L2 : 16-way / L3 : 64-way
TDP / Vcore - 94.99 Watts / 1.236 Volts
Type - Retail (Stock Frequency : 3500 MHz)

Motherboard
Model - Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Ultra-CF
Socket - Socket AM3+ (942)
North Bridge - AMD RD9x0 rev 02
South Bridge - AMD SB910/950 rev 40
BIOS - American Megatrends Inc. F1 (04/11/2016)
Memory (RAM)
Total Size - 32768 MB
Type - Dual Channel (128 bit) DDR3-SDRAM
Frequency - 669.7 MHz - Ratio 3:10
Timings - 9-9-9-24-33 (tCAS-tRC-tRP-tRAS-tCS)
Slot #1 Module - 8192 MB (DDR3-1337) - XMP 1.3 - P/N: 16G-D3-2400-MR
Slot #2 Module - 8192 MB (DDR3-1337) - XMP 1.3 - P/N: 16G-D3-2400-MR
Slot #3 Module -8192 MB (DDR3-1337) - XMP 1.3 - P/N: 16G-D3-2400-MR
Slot #4 Module - 8192 MB (DDR3-1337) - XMP 1.3 - P/N: 16G-D3-2400-MR

Graphic Card (GPU)
GPU Type - Radeon (TM) RX 470 Graphics (Polaris)
GPU Brand - ASUSTeK Computer Inc.
GPU VRAM - 4095 MB

Storage (HDD/SSD)
Model #1 - Samsung SSD 850 EVO M.2 500GB
Capacity #1 - 500 GB
Model #2 - Msft Storage Space
Capacity #2 - 1989 GB

Display
Screen #1 - LG Electronics ( LG ULTRAWIDE (GSM59F2)
Screen #1 Spec - 34.2 inches (86.9 cm) / 2560 x 1080 pixels @ 56-75 Hz

If you look at my memory you will see my issue. It is only running at DDR3-1337 and not at DDR3-2400.
I have tried to go in and adjust this is BIOS, but it will not let me. I have also tried with Gigabyte's Easy Tune APP. Is there a better way?

I know that my processor may be limiting me a bit and plan to upgrade it in the near future to a FX-8350.

I also have an ASRock 970 Performance Fatlity edition motherboard as well and could return to using it as the DDR3-2400 was working in it with out any issues, but figured upgrading to 990fx would be better.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2WolfDesigns*
> 
> I just picked up a 990-FXA UD3-Ultra today, as it was an open box special and not badly priced.I am running an older FX6300 processor for right now. Mainly becuase it has a M.2 port.
> 
> If you look at my memory you will see my issue. It is only running at DDR3-1337 and not at DDR3-2400.
> I have tried to go in and adjust this is BIOS, but it will not let me. I have also tried with Gigabyte's Easy Tune APP. Is there a better way?
> 
> I know that my processor may be limiting me a bit and plan to upgrade it in the near future to a FX-8350.
> 
> I also have an ASRock 970 Performance Fatlity edition motherboard as well and could return to using it as the DDR3-2400 was working in it with out any issues, but figured upgrading to 990fx would be better.


In the BIOS there should be an option to load XMP profile. Look better, i can't believe there isn't any.


----------



## MishelLngelo

There's nothing inherently wrong with MB. It's well built, has spare BIOS and relatively rich with options (for the time it came out) but my old ga-890fxa-UD5 v 2,1 beats it in available options. Only real problem are relatively poor BIOS options and inaccurate (when overclocked) sensors. Otherwise, with some TLC and added fans to NB and VRM, my FX 6350 is running comfortably at over 4.8 GHz 24/7 pretty loaded most of the time. I can comfortably leave it to simmer some HD video compiling whole night with 90% load without a hitch. Had this 6350 up to 5GHz but 1.520v is not best thing for a Vishera. It may run for a day or two but than it may start throwing tantrum third day even on idle.


----------



## onurbulbul

What do you guys think about Asus Realbench utility? Many people recommend this bechmark program.


----------



## Mega Man

It's just another benchmark


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It's just another benchmark


Thanks


----------



## qwerty drive

UD3 R5 with FX-6300, LLC set to medium, So far seems stable at 4.5ghz with only 1.368 Vcore. Have not experienced crashes in any CPU intensive games for the last few Months at these settings so i guess that counts as a pass..? Max CPU temp with prime was 51 but only had it running for an hour, that is with a Hyper 212 X installed


----------



## 2WolfDesigns

I went ahead and went back to my ASrock Fatality 970 Performance motherboard for the time being.

The other issue that I found with the Gigabyte 990-FXA UD3 Ultra-CF motherboard was that it was running a 970 Bios, I am unsure why they would do this and there is no update for it to a 990 version at this time. I will wait to use the board until I can build another computer for it.


----------



## onurbulbul

I've started to my new underclock journey. I was stable at 3.5Ghz with 1.118v. Now I am stable at 3.8Ghz with 1.25v . My best benchmark and stability probram is now Asus Realbench


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> I've started to my new underclock journey. I was stable at 3.5Ghz with 1.118v. Now I am stable at 3.8Ghz with 1.25v . My best benchmark and stability probram is now Asus Realbench


3.8 at 1.25v is plausible. The 3.5 at 1.118v is very, very low. Either you have a golden chip or the Realbench is very lenient. My best is 3.5 at 1.18v. My 8300 came at 3.3Ghz-1.16v and i think would destabilise rapidly lower than that. So 1.118v is VERY good, if it's really stable.


----------



## Mega Man

It is not a stability test. Just a benchmark. But people keep trying to use them as stability tests (ie cinemark) lol...

Works great till your OS and all your files are so corrupted nothing is salvageable

I feel a need to repost this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...

There is no such thing as " a more realistic every day load" or my personal favorite " prime pushes too hard and I will never in real use do that ".....
It is staying to carry over (that attitude) from intels as they can not oc that high without being unstable. Or to much heat load esp with avx2 instructions

That said this is not a one to anyone. If you want to not be stable don't. However just don't run around stating you are stable.

The only unrealistic thing is heat load that they produce but really it isn't unrealistic.... I have seen games do my max temps before


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It is not a stability test. Just a benchmark. But people keep trying to use them as stability tests (ie cinemark) lol...
> 
> Works great till your OS and all your files are so corrupted nothing is salvageable
> 
> I feel a need to repost this
> There is no such thing as " a more realistic every day load" or my personal favorite " prime pushes too hard and I will never in real use do that ".....
> It is staying to carry over (that attitude) from intels as they can not oc that high without being unstable. Or to much heat load esp with avx2 instructions
> 
> That said this is not a one to anyone. If you want to not be stable don't. However just don't run around stating you are stable.
> The only unrealistic thing is heat load that they produce but really it isn't unrealistic.... I have seen games do my max temps before


Ah, i see. I thought it had some stability test incorporated. Very instructive post and i will also re-post another post from Raging Cane, which i always keep in my oc.net links:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1500294/why-some-people-dont-like-prime95/60#post_22531179


----------



## onurbulbul

What is the max vrm temps for ud3 mb. After which vrm temp I should be worried


----------



## onurbulbul




----------



## ebduncan

Well I'm back.

Haven't been keeping up with this club, ever since I replaced my motherboard with the ASrock Extreme 9 board. I kept my ud3 around figured I would find a new home for it later down the road.

Well I did. Setup a new home brew nas on freenas.
FX-8320e
Gigabyte UD3 Fxa 990 Rev 1.0
16gb (8gbx2) DDR 3 1333mhz ECC Samsung generic
5- 4tb WD Red drives
1-64gb SSD
AMD R5-230 gpu
HP 671798-001 10GbE SFP+ network card.

I've yet to configure the network, but working on under-volting and under-clocking the cpu to get it to be as power efficient as possible since it will be running 24/7.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> What is the max vrm temps for ud3 mb. After which vrm temp I should be worried


The temp at which it hard throttles.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The temp at which it hard throttles.


So how much degree. I didn't understand what do you mean ?


----------



## Mega Man

Afaik the newer ud3s have a hard coded throttle that you can not change, written in the bios it is designed to throttle (as far as we know) at a system power draw. Again from what I have seen in this forum heat is usually not the problem on the newer ud3s, which I assume you have


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> What is the max vrm temps for ud3 mb. After which vrm temp I should be worried


All the mosfets i 've seen, have specs for max tolerance of 120C. However, most motherboard will throttle before that. Since my Biostar TA970 Plus, throttles at 90C, i would consider 90C a good indicator, that this is the last "safe" temperature that one should keep in general. As an approximation.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> All the mosfets i 've seen, have specs for max tolerance of 120C. However, most motherboard will throttle before that. Since my Biostar TA970 Plus, throttles at 90C, i would consider 90C a good indicator, that this is the last "safe" temperature that one should keep in general. As an approximation.


I am at 4.2ghz, 59c vrms.


----------



## onurbulbul

4.4Ghz, 65 vrms, 45c CPU


----------



## AyyMD

Is the 990FX-Gaming a legitimate 10 phase or are they doubled up?


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> Is the 990FX-Gaming a legitimate 10 phase or are they doubled up?


Its 8+2 phase. Are you planning to buy this board by any chance?


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Its 8+2 phase. Are you planning to buy this board by any chance?


I might, because it's pretty bad having a $60 cooler on my M5A97 R2.0 (which makes it so I can't cool the phases).

Update: found out it's a doubler.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> I might, because it's pretty bad having a $60 cooler on my M5A97 R2.0 (which makes it so I can't cool the phases).
> 
> Update: found out it's a doubler.


Is there a reason why you buy this board besides the vrm cooling? I had this board and i wasn't really happy with it to be honest.. its up to you but Gigabyte BIOS (UEFI) is pretty much nerved. After not even half a year the audio jack died and i had all kinds of problems with it.. I shipped the board back to my retail store and they gave me back my money as this was the second board that went bad on me in a short period of time.. I bought the Asus Sabertooth R3.0 instead and i couldn't be more happy to be honest. You cannot even compare it to the Gigabyte in many ways..

If i were you i wouldn't touch Gigabyte these days and stay away from them as far as possible but that's only my









btw, the Asus sabertooth 990FX R3.0 has a nice heatsink with a shroud where you can place a 40mm fan to blow on the vrm's.


----------



## AyyMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Is there a reason why you buy this board besides the vrm cooling? I had this board and i wasn't really happy with it to be honest.. its up to you but Gigabyte BIOS (UEFI) is pretty much nerved. After not even half a year the audio jack died and i had all kinds of problems with it.. I shipped the board back to my retail store and they gave me back my money as this was the second board that went bad on me in a short period of time.. I bought the Asus Sabertooth R3.0 instead and i couldn't be more happy to be honest. You cannot even compare it to the Gigabyte in many ways..
> 
> If i were you i wouldn't touch Gigabyte these days and stay away from them as far as possible but that's only my
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, the Asus sabertooth 990FX R3.0 has a nice heatsink with a shroud where you can place a 40mm fan to blow on the vrm's.


I saw that, I may sell all my extra junk to buy that.


----------



## zila

And the shroud is completely removable which is nice too. It gives you the option to use other cooling solutions on the vrms as well. I haven't plugged the board in yet but I am admiring it. I'm glad I bought this board.


----------



## onurbulbul

LLC is not working with my board. When I did LLC medium everythings get too high temps. Now I found new test system. I use realbench benchmark 5 time runs. When it's stable it stays stable.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> I saw that, I may sell all my extra junk to buy that.


Trust me, you are more happy with Asus than with Gigabyte right now. Don't take it from me though but from a man that has way more experience than me called Undervolter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AyyMD*
> 
> I saw that, I may sell all my extra junk to buy that.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> [quote name="hurricane28" btw, the Asus sabertooth 990FX R3.0 has a nice heatsink with a shroud where you can place a 40mm fan to blow on the vrm's.


And the shroud is completely removable which is nice too. It gives you the option to use other cooling solutions on the vrms as well. I haven't plugged the board in yet but I am admiring it. I'm glad I bought this board.







[/quote]

Yes it is. Today my Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX arrived an its a cute little fan but you can't compare it to my 80mm stock cooler AMD fan to be honest.
Its very quiet and i cannot even hear it but its a little underwhelming to be honest. Vrm temps doesn't decrease like thought it would be so i might do some more investigation tomorrow when i have more time. I can also take some pictures if you like.

As for the rest, this board is really amazing and i love the BIOS and how it looks. I thought the R2.0 was great but the R3.0 is even better if possible.


----------



## zila

Hurricane, do your vrms run hot on the new board? My R2.0 is a hottie.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> LLC is not working with my board. When I did LLC medium everythings get too high temps. Now I found new test system. I use realbench benchmark 5 time runs. When it's stable it stays stable.


Did you look at the voltages that LLC gives you under load?


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> Did you look at the voltages that LLC gives you under load?


Yes, I did. Medium value LLC only gives the right voltages under the load.


----------



## tashcz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> Yes, I did. Medium value LLC only gives the right voltages under the load.


How do the voltages change while using medium and others? I've got the Asus Aura and anything above high LLC (which is medium since I have ultra high and extreme) gives a bunch of heat more. Around 150W more from the wall socket and raises my volts for +0.15 or +0.20. Maybe you need to look at what voltage you need to set and LLC you need to use to maintain stability under load, sometimes lowering the LLC and upping the voltage a bit does a better job than setting LLC higher. That's why I asked you what your voltages were. If possible, give us results from hwmonitor or something while stress testing.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> How do the voltages change while using medium and others? I've got the Asus Aura and anything above high LLC (which is medium since I have ultra high and extreme) gives a bunch of heat more. Around 150W more from the wall socket and raises my volts for +0.15 or +0.20. Maybe you need to look at what voltage you need to set and LLC you need to use to maintain stability under load, sometimes lowering the LLC and upping the voltage a bit does a better job than setting LLC higher. That's why I asked you what your voltages were. If possible, give us results from hwmonitor or something while stress testing.



I've tried every LLC value. Except medium others didn't work for me. And yes LLC give much more heat especially on vrms. I leave it to auto. And I'm glad with the results


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zila*
> 
> Hurricane, do your vrms run hot on the new board? My R2.0 is a hottie.


I don't know how accurate these readings are to be honest. I use HWINFO64 to monitor my system but strange things happening when i enable the EC sensor which is the vrm so i monitor it thru Al suite 3 and the highest i seen was like 50c under load. Have to test tomorrow though. The 40mm Noctua fan fits perfectly in the vrm shroud but isn't moving that much air but i have to test this under full load tomorrow. A socket fan on the back side of the motherboard seems to work very well and it lowers the temps significantly for CPU and vrm.


----------



## zila

My R2.0 with my FX-8320 @1.35v and NB @1.35v running 250x16 HT and NB 2500 gets to 58°C vrm temp under Load without any fans on the vrms or the socket inside of a case that's in HWinfo64. My rig is air cooled with a Phanteks PH-TC14PE. Lots of air moving around in a HAF912. That's with IBT AVX on very high.

High LLC on the board. That's my DD so it's fine there. But I'm hoping the new R3.0 might run cooler vrms.


----------



## ebduncan

I loved my ud3 rev 1.0, I was able to clock my fx to 5ghz

I only switched to the Asrock Extreme 9 to try something new when the on board lan died on my gigabyte board. Still clocked at 5ghz. I had some minor issues with the ud3 mainly because i wanted to overclock to the sky. The vrm section got really hot and started to warp the board near the VRM section. I made a backplate for the board out of aluminum and it solved all my issues. I posted a how to probably hundred pages or so back haha.

I'm glad i found another purpose for this motherboard.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I loved my ud3 rev 1.0, I was able to clock my fx to 5ghz
> 
> I only switched to the Asrock Extreme 9 to try something new when the on board lan died on my gigabyte board. Still clocked at 5ghz. I had some minor issues with the ud3 mainly because i wanted to overclock to the sky. The vrm section got really hot and started to warp the board near the VRM section. I made a backplate for the board out of aluminum and it solved all my issues. I posted a how to probably hundred pages or so back haha.
> 
> I'm glad i found another purpose for this motherboard.


Funny thing is, i liked my UD5 rev 1.1 as well. After the audio and the LAN died on me i actually asked my retail store if they had the rev 1.1 but sadly it was being replaced with the newer revisions which have the crappy UEFI.


----------



## MishelLngelo

So, I should feel lucky I have rev. 1.1 ? I have seen that behavior with other makes and models of MBs and other HW, At first everything (or almost) is right and after a while they start cutting down on elements and quality.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> So, I should feel lucky I have rev. 1.1 ? I have seen that behavior with other makes and models of MBs and other HW, At first everything (or almost) is right and after a while they start cutting down on elements and quality.


I think so yes. The BIOS was MUCH better on the rev 1.1 than on the rev 3.0. The board throttles like mad and sometimes when i changed something in BIOS i couldn't even reboot normally.. i had to push the reset button because it was stuck at the point right after the BIOS logo.. It doesn't stop there, i also had stability problems and it seems it didn't like my 2400MHz 16GB G.Skill ram that much because everything was a bit laggy in Windows 10. I discovered that there was a whole lot more wrong with the board and i got random shutdowns when i was trying to run a internet speedtest.. i brought it back to my retail store and they tested the board and indeed the board was faulty they said. I got the Sabertooth R3.0 instead and all problems are gone. It also feels a lot snappier in WIndows 10 and programs also seems to load faster. No more random shutdowns when i do internet speedtest etc.

So yeah, i think you can consider yourself lucky with the rev 1.1 to be honest.


----------



## MishelLngelo

This one is running for over a year full tilt heavily OCed but also force cooled everywhere, without a hitch and it was second hand too. I was going to try with Asus R3 because of better OC potential but since Zen is coming it's just not economically practical. I'll be changing platform as soon as Zen proves itself.


----------



## cahota

Hi there. A stupid question probably, but I couldn't find an answer through search so please bare with me here.







Is it possible to flash a Rev. 3.0 gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 board with a BIOS from an older revision? Like from 1.0, 1.1 or 1.2? It looks like the first 3 revisions had an Award (blue screen) BIOS, while the last 3 revisions all have "UEFI" BIOS and this newer BIOS doesn't have as many options as those legacy versions have. I've seen reports from users of the earlier revisions (1.0-1.2) saying that they've got ECC ram related settings in their BIOS, but my rev. 3.0 doesn't have those (with ecc unbuffered sticks installed). I also couldn't fine "ganged/unganged" switch in my rev. 3.0 BIOS...

So, has anyone tried flashing rev. 3.0 with an older revision's BIOS? Will it just brick the board? Or maybe there are alternative BIOS'es for rev. 3.0 which are not UEFI but of the "legacy blue screen" kind? I really need to turn on ECC, bought this board because it was supposed to work with ECC Ram, but didn't realize it's only supported with particular early revisions.


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cahota*
> 
> Hi there. A stupid question probably, but I couldn't find an answer through search so please bare with me here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to flash a Rev. 3.0 gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 board with a BIOS from an older revision? Like from 1.0, 1.1 or 1.2? It looks like the first 3 revisions had an Award (blue screen) BIOS, while the last 3 revisions all have "UEFI" BIOS and this newer BIOS doesn't have as many options as those legacy versions have. I've seen reports from users of the earlier revisions (1.0-1.2) saying that they've got ECC ram related settings in their BIOS, but my rev. 3.0 doesn't have those (with ecc unbuffered sticks installed). I also couldn't fine "ganged/unganged" switch in my rev. 3.0 BIOS...
> 
> So, has anyone tried flashing rev. 3.0 with an older revision's BIOS? Will it just brick the board? Or maybe there are alternative BIOS'es for rev. 3.0 which are not UEFI but of the "legacy blue screen" kind? I really need to turn on ECC, bought this board because it was supposed to work with ECC Ram, but didn't realize it's only supported with particular early revisions.


you cannot flash to a older board bios. They use two different bios chips. Rev 1.0, and 1.1 are compatible somewhat but they added LLC on 1.1rev boards. Rev 2.0+ all use Uefi style bios and are not compatible with the older boards.

is your ECC unregistered, and unbuffered? The FX boards are pretty picky about which ECC memory they support.


----------



## cahota

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> you cannot flash to a older board bios. They use two different bios chips. Rev 1.0, and 1.1 are compatible somewhat but they added LLC on 1.1rev boards. Rev 2.0+ all use Uefi style bios and are not compatible with the older boards.


Thanks. Too bad, I'll probably have to switch to some other board then, maybe 1.0/1.1/1.2 or something else entirely.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> is your ECC unregistered, and unbuffered? The FX boards are pretty picky about which ECC memory they support.


I think there are only 2 types of ECC Ram, it's either "registered" or "unbuffered". Registered won't work with desktop boards, I guess the system won't even start with it. I've got ECC unbuffered modules, 4 of these: Kingston KVR16LE11L/8
I initially bought this board because there were posts on the internet saying how it works great for a bare-metal hypervisor with VGA pass-through (Xen, ESXi), and then people were saying it works with ECC ram. This post in particular saying that it works great and BIOS has all the fine-tuning options: https://hardforum.com/threads/gigabyte-990fx-ud3-and-ecc-works-fine.1698299/
I should've payed more attention to the subsequent posts in that thread where no one else was able to confirm that with their boards.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> So, I should feel lucky I have rev. 1.1 ? I have seen that behavior with other makes and models of MBs and other HW, At first everything (or almost) is right and after a while they start cutting down on elements and quality.


The newer versions have their quirks that is for sure. Gigabyte also went cheaper on the vrm's that said the older ud3s and ud5s were an excellent value build to cost wise, however they were very rare ( note not rare as in exclusive, but a nice gem that consumers had access to. )the latter versions became typical budget boards.

The Rev 3 ud7 has it's quirks but is rock solid and the last am3+ gigabyte enthusiast board.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> This one is running for over a year full tilt heavily OCed but also force cooled everywhere, without a hitch and it was second hand too. I was going to try with Asus R3 because of better OC potential but since Zen is coming it's just not economically practical. I'll be changing platform as soon as Zen proves itself.


I really would not recommend it either

I put my boards (all of them, 2x970a-ud3 rev 1.1, 2x990fxa-ud7 rev3, sabertooth r2.0 and CHV-Z ) all through hell. All still alive and without issue. Most run a min of 1.46v with some pushing into the 1.65v range ( the "crappy" gigabyte rev3.0s heh. No issues at all....24-7 maxed out more then most.... )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cahota*
> 
> Hi there. A stupid question probably, but I couldn't find an answer through search so please bare with me here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to flash a Rev. 3.0 gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 board with a BIOS from an older revision? Like from 1.0, 1.1 or 1.2? It looks like the first 3 revisions had an Award (blue screen) BIOS, while the last 3 revisions all have "UEFI" BIOS and this newer BIOS doesn't have as many options as those legacy versions have. I've seen reports from users of the earlier revisions (1.0-1.2) saying that they've got ECC ram related settings in their BIOS, but my rev. 3.0 doesn't have those (with ecc unbuffered sticks installed). I also couldn't fine "ganged/unganged" switch in my rev. 3.0 BIOS...
> 
> So, has anyone tried flashing rev. 3.0 with an older revision's BIOS? Will it just brick the board? Or maybe there are alternative BIOS'es for rev. 3.0 which are not UEFI but of the "legacy blue screen" kind? I really need to turn on ECC, bought this board because it was supposed to work with ECC Ram, but didn't realize it's only supported with particular early revisions.


No. Tbh I have yet to see any giga board with proof of eec (am3÷) the one that comes to mind is the mid tier asus that iirc Alastair has


----------



## ebduncan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The newer versions have their quirks that is for sure. Gigabyte also went cheaper on the vrm's that said the older ud3s and ud5s were an excellent value build to cost wise, however they were very rare ( note not rare as in exclusive, but a nice gem that consumers had access to. )the latter versions became typical budget boards.
> 
> No. Tbh I have yet to see any giga board with proof of eec (am3÷) the one that comes to mind is the mid tier asus that iirc Alastair has


The ud3 and higher unofficially support unregistered ECC. Finding memory which is compatible can be rather tricky though.

I am running Hynix PC3L-10600E (4gbx4) works fine. Once i get back to the office I'll take some photos and screen shots for ya.

I don't have any experience with the rev 3.0+ boards, but i've seen some of the issues posted about here. I wouldn't say the REV 1.1 and lower boards are any better, but they did have the last legacy bios. I much prefer the legacy bios.


----------



## cahota

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I don't have any experience with the rev 3.0+ boards, but i've seen some of the issues posted about here. I wouldn't say the REV 1.1 and lower boards are any better, but they did have the last legacy bios. I much prefer the legacy bios.


That's why I was thinking about flashing my UD3 rev. 3.0 with one of the legacy BIOS'es from the older revisions - those legacy BIOS'es for rev. 1.0/1.1/1.2 have more options in them compared to the UEFI ones in rev. 3.0/4.0/4.1. It seems that when you install ECC Ram modules in a board like this some ECC related options appear in BIOS (those options aren't there when you put non-ECC modules in). This trick works with the boards that have legacy BIOSes, but not with the ones that come with UEFI BIOS.


----------



## onurbulbul

Which setup do you people think better for my vrm temps?


----------



## Mega Man

I don't know that it matters. Good fans and good case will help the best


----------



## MishelLngelo

First one, second one is all wrong.


----------



## onurbulbul

Could someone please tell me what's the meaning of total error in hwinfo utility? Should I care about it? For 4.6 ghz I could complete the benchmark with less voltage but it gave total error in the hwinfo


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could someone please tell me what's the meaning of total error in hwinfo utility? Should I care about it? For 4.6 ghz I could complete the benchmark with less voltage but it gave total error in the hwinfo


I really don't know man. For the best answer i would suggest you to go to this site and ask Martin himself who made this program: https://www.hwinfo.com/forum/

What i see in your screenshots is that total error is 0 so i don't know what you mean to be honest.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> First one, second one is all wrong.


Agreed. Its not the fans alone that makes the difference. Ambient plays the biggest role in temps though. Of course good fans cool better but only when the rest is optimized as well. I mean, you can have 10K RPM fans in your case but if they are choked or conditions are not optimized you simply have no benefit from them.

Its the same like buying an GTX 1080 running off an low end CPU, the performance is there but the GPU will simple be bottlenecked by the CPU. Its all about balance.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> I really don't know man. For the best answer i would suggest you to go to this site and ask Martin himself who made this program: https://www.hwinfo.com/forum/
> 
> What i see in your screenshots is that total error is 0 so i don't know what you mean to be honest.


That total error is not 0 cause I gave more voltage then it was stable. I was stable at 1.45v but it was total error. Now I am giving 1,5v it's not giving total error


----------



## mus1mus

HWInfo errors do not account Correctable errors. It doesn't mean instability. It only detects calculation errors.

Windows has it's own Error Correction. Computations with correctable errors were just repeated. And sometimes takes longer to finish a cycle.


----------



## onurbulbul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> HWInfo errors do not account Correctable errors. It doesn't mean instability. It only detects calculation errors.
> 
> Windows has it's own Error Correction. Computations with correctable errors were just repeated. And sometimes takes longer to finish a cycle.


So if it's stable from benchmark or stability program and same time HWinfo gives error it doesn't mean it's not stable. Do I understand correct?


----------



## onurbulbul

From 4.4Ghz to 4.6Ghz so much voltage difference. Cpu and vrm also temp difference a lot.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> So if it's stable from benchmark or stability program and same time HWinfo gives error it doesn't mean it's not stable. Do I understand correct?


Could be.


----------



## onurbulbul

My oc journey ended at 4.7Ghz. Now I'd like to OC my memories. I've Corsair Vengeance Pro Series 16Gb 1600Mhz, 9-9-9-24 1.5v kit. Could someone help?


----------



## tashcz

I've got an advice, save your time and nerves


----------



## MishelLngelo

It's doubtful you'd get any better performance but if you can raise frequency without loosing on Cl but you can try to give it more voltage and try higher multiplier. Other way would be to lower multiplier by a notch (0.5) and raise FSB to get same CPU frequency as you had.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> My oc journey ended at 4.7Ghz. Now I'd like to OC my memories. I've Corsair Vengeance Pro Series 16Gb 1600Mhz, 9-9-9-24 1.5v kit. Could someone help?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tashcz*
> 
> I've got an advice, save your time and nerves


OCing memory is frustrating because there are so many timings that can be changed in addition to the frequency. You may spend countless hours for little gain. Then if you upgrade your memory, you can start over!

It's hard to tell what settings will be the fastest and one set of settings may only be marginally faster than another. For example, would 9-9-9-24 at 1600 be faster than 9-10-10-36 at 1866? If one set of timings is better, by how much? Also, I think the stability may be a little more difficult to find when compared to CPU OC because of all the timings you can change. In my case, I successfully stress tested a memory OC using Memtest, but it was unstable in IBT AVX.

Having said all that, I think you can go higher than 1600mhz. Even if you can't get the frequency higher, you might be able to turn down some of your latency timings to get more responsive memory. The following worked for me:


I set my HTT, NB, and CPU to stock or VERY STABLE frequencies. In other words, when overclocking memory, make sure you are just overclocking the memory. Otherwise, you may blame instability on your memory when it was really another component at fault.
I volted my memory to 1.685 per Mus1mus recommendation.
Then I increased the memory multiplier and checked for stability using IBT AVX. Be sure to use a mode that incorporates a lot of memory such as maximum or custom. I can't remember how many rounds of IBT I ran, sorry. I did find IBT AVX to be a harder to pass than Memtest.
When I encountered instability, I loosened up my latency timings until I got the memory stable. There are guides such as this old one to help with tightening timings. These timings are just as important as the memory frequency.
Turn down your voltage as much as possible, if you can't get it to budge, that's probably fine. As I understand it, most RAM is usually resilient even at that voltage.
Now you're finished! Or... you can try increasing that memory multiplier again and readjusting timings.
Once you get you memory multiplier to its highest level with the tightest possible timings, you will be close to the maximum potential of your memory. So, you'll have an idea of what timings you can run. IE, you may know that your RAM can handle 1866, but not 2133. You could then start increasing the FSB/BLCK clock a little bit to see if you have any more headroom on your RAM. For example, maybe you can't hit 2133, but you can be stable at 2000 or 2050. With that knowledge you could do a FSB/BLCK overclock more effectively. For example, maybe your CPU and MOBO are happy at a FSB/BLCK of 233, then you'll know your memory timing can be 8, but not 9 (8x233 would be 1866 and 9x233 would be 2133).

Sorry if I went on a rant and overexplained things. I hope this is helpful


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ebduncan*
> 
> I loved my ud3 rev 1.0, I was able to clock my fx to 5ghz
> 
> I only switched to the Asrock Extreme 9 to try something new when the on board lan died on my gigabyte board. Still clocked at 5ghz. I had some minor issues with the ud3 mainly because i wanted to overclock to the sky. The vrm section got really hot and started to warp the board near the VRM section. I made a backplate for the board out of aluminum and it solved all my issues. I posted a how to probably hundred pages or so back haha.
> 
> I'm glad i found another purpose for this motherboard.


I made one of these backplates this week. The cooling results were extraordinary. It didn't allow me to OC any higher, but I will be able to discontinue some fans. The VRM maximum temperature dropped around 15C and the CPU about 4C. The "backplate" acts as a heatsink. It gets hot enough to burn skin in the right conditions.

I bought some 6M/K rated thermal pad material, which is about one step up from the cheapest thermal pads. It's probably superior to the stock thermal pad material on the UD3 990FXA VRM's, so I replaced it. Also, I put some more thermal pad on the Northbridge replacing the thermal paste.

For the backplate I put down a layer of thermal pad, then a layer of aluminum foil, and finally a hunk of aluminum. I salvaged the aluminum from a GPU heatsink from an old broken Nvidia 9800GT. I cut it to the correct size with a jigsaw. The drawback of the salvaged aluminum heatsink is that to make even contact with the motherboard, I had to put the fins towards the MOBO. In time, this may break down the thermal pad. In order to protect the thermal pad, I put the foil in between the aluminum backplate/heatsink and the thermal pad. The fins won't slice the foil, but they would slice the pad. I fastened the new heatsink using some M2-0.4 x 12mm flathead bolts that I bought from the local hardware store. I screwed them in them in through the fins on the backplate and layered some washers and springs in to get more even pressure on the backplate.

It's important to insulate the backplate with a thermal pad. There are many places behind the motherboard that could could make contact with the backplate and short the motherboard. Mine sparked the first time I turned it on so I to I had to make adjustments







It was the aluminum foil at fault. I'd recommend buying a big sheet of thermal pad, I bought a 140mmx140mm. I have plenty leftover for future projects and it allowed me to cut long one piece strips for VRM heatsinks. I'll probably reinstall the backplate with a larger piece of thermal pad to be extra sure that everything is electrically insulated.

Here are pics of the backplate:



Temperatures: Before the backplate, I had a socket fan and two fans fastened to my VRM's to keep them cool. I could probably get away with getting rid of all the fans, but I think I'll keep the socket fan and cut out the others just to keep things extra cool and lower CPU temps. Without any sort of active cooling on the VRM heatsinks, I'm concerned the temps would creep higher.

Temps before backplate install (71F ambient Temp):


Temps after backplate install (69F ambient Temp):


Temps after backplate install without two AMD stock processor fans blowing on VRM's on the front side of the MOBO. They're not removed, just unplugged. (69F ambient Temp):


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> I made one of these backplates this week. The cooling results were extraordinary. It didn't allow me to OC any higher, but I will be able to discontinue some fans. The VRM maximum temperature dropped around 15C and the CPU about 4C. The "backplate" acts as a heatsink. It gets hot enough to burn skin in the right conditions.
> 
> I bought some 6M/K rated thermal pad material, which is about one step up from the cheapest thermal pads. It's probably superior to the stock thermal pad material on the UD3 990FXA VRM's, so I replaced it. Also, I put some more thermal pad on the Northbridge replacing the thermal paste.
> 
> For the backplate I put down a layer of thermal pad, then a layer of aluminum foil, and finally a hunk of aluminum. I salvaged the aluminum from a GPU heatsink from an old broken Nvidia 9800GT. I cut it to the correct size with a jigsaw. The drawback of the salvaged aluminum heatsink is that to make even contact with the motherboard, I had to put the fins towards the MOBO. In time, this may break down the thermal pad. In order to protect the thermal pad, I put the foil in between the aluminum backplate/heatsink and the thermal pad. The fins won't slice the foil, but they would slice the pad. I fastened the new heatsink using some M2-0.4 x 12mm flathead bolts that I bought from the local hardware store. I screwed them in them in through the fins on the backplate and layered some washers and springs in to get more even pressure on the backplate.
> 
> It's important to insulate the backplate with a thermal pad. There are many places behind the motherboard that could could make contact with the backplate and short the motherboard. Mine sparked the first time I turned it on so I to I had to make adjustments
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It was the aluminum foil at fault. I'd recommend buying a big sheet of thermal pad, I bought a 140mmx140mm. I have plenty leftover for future projects and it allowed me to cut long one piece strips for VRM heatsinks. I'll probably reinstall the backplate with a larger piece of thermal pad to be extra sure that everything is electrically insulated.


Just wanting to pitch in my







First off good job!
Here's what I wanted to share that I learned when putting my mobo under water. On the CHV-Z the VRM back plates only purpose is to act as a stiffener for the VRM/NB HS assembly. I believe it's the same for all manufactures. When I installed the VRM/NB WB I was able to do away with the back plate completely. (solid wb vs flimsy HS).

With this in mind (this is only my opinion not meaning to offend) you've somewhat put a blanket (thermopad) over the VRM backside and than covered it in a way that defeats the purpose of a HS due to the very limited physical contact patch between the pad and HS being mounted upside down.

I wonder if it wouldn't be more effective to go with a flat plate with as many clearance holes as possible (more like a minimal framework) and pad cut to match. I'm thinking plain ole direct air flow should cool even more effectively.


----------



## MishelLngelo

Good idea and job with that VRM backplate. Ribs make radiating surface larger and so dissipate more heat. Heat transfer pad has better heat transfer than air and electrically insulates. Only different thing I would do is to have flat surface on the side of MB. It would make more contact and fins would be free to dissipate heat to the back.


----------



## bigdayve

You all are both right. I would have preferred a flat backplate, but I couldn't find anything suitable. I'm not sure if you can tell in the picture, but the solid piece of the heatsink isn't long enough to cover the entire vrm area. I'm just happy and surprised at how well it works.

Another little problem is that the fins are parallel to the socket fan, so much of the air that would blow across the heatsink is blocked by a fin. I thought about drilling holes through the fins to allow more air to pass, but decided the performance as is was good enough.


----------



## bigdayve

I might redo the backplate mod with one of these, not much to lose if it didn't work.


----------



## MishelLngelo

That looks perfect.


----------



## bigdayve

It's short enough to get enough clearance in just about any case too. They also make one that 15mm tall.


----------



## onurbulbul

I don't know if someone had same problem with me but sometimes mostly when i first time starts my pc in windows i see that lan connection is close i cannot open it and when i restart pc is stopping then i have to press reset button


----------



## onurbulbul

After I've changed my setup CPU is cooler but vrms got hotter. I didn't understand why cause now two top mount fans blowing to the vrms.


----------



## Mega Man

They won't help, you need a vrm fan


----------



## MishelLngelo

Hope that CPU cooler is blowing air out.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onurbulbul*
> 
> 
> After I've changed my setup CPU is cooler but vrms got hotter. I didn't understand why cause now two top mount fans blowing to the vrms.


Like Mega said, you need an additional vrm fan in order to cool them. Those big fans on top are not really helping.


----------



## LuckyImperial

I feel like jerk asking this because I'm sure it's probably been answered in here already, but I couldn't find it from a few searches...

Does anyone know what the second "bank" of VRM's serve in my UD3? The first "set" is clearly for the CPU...but VR T1 and VR T2 in the second set spans a much wider voltage and at much lower current. Peripheral components?

(note that screen shot is not of a 990FXA-UD3, but is accurate enough to convey my question)


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LuckyImperial*
> 
> I feel like jerk asking this because I'm sure it's probably been answered in here already, but I couldn't find it from a few searches...
> 
> Does anyone know what the second "bank" of VRM's serve in my UD3? The first "set" is clearly for the CPU...but VR T1 and VR T2 in the second set spans a much wider voltage and at much lower current. Peripheral components?
> 
> (note that screen shot is not of a 990FXA-UD3, but is accurate enough to convey my question)


Good question, I don't know either









In my experience the four temperature values move together in lockstep. VR T1 and VR T2 are never more than a degree apart at any time. Likewise, the second set of temperatures is never more than a few tenths of a degree off from the first.

I wonder how many sensors are actually recording those four readings.


----------



## m42BMW

@2WolfDesigns


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2WolfDesigns*
> 
> I just picked up a 990-FXA UD3-Ultra today, as it was an open box special and not badly priced.I am running an older FX6300 processor for right now. Mainly becuase it has a M.2 port.
> Here is my stats as of right now.
> 
> Processor (CPU)
> CPU Name - AMD FX™-6300 Six-Core Processor
> Threading -1 CPU - 6 Core - 6 Threads
> Frequency -3516.1 MHz (17.5 * 200.92 MHz) - Uncore: 2009.2 MHz
> Multiplier - Current: 17.5 / Min: 7 / Max: 20.5
> Architecture - Vishera / OR-C0-Step (32 nm)
> Cpuid / Ext. - F.2.0 / 15.2
> IA Extensions
> MMX(+), SSE, SSE2, SSE3, SSSE3, SSE4.1, SSE4.2, SSE4A, x86-64, AMD-V, AES, AVX, XOP, FMA3, FMA4
> Caches - L1D : 16 KB / L2 : 2048 KB / L3 : 8192 KB
> Caches Assoc. - L1D : 4-way / L2 : 16-way / L3 : 64-way
> TDP / Vcore - 94.99 Watts / 1.236 Volts
> Type - Retail (Stock Frequency : 3500 MHz)
> 
> Motherboard
> Model - Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Ultra-CF
> Socket - Socket AM3+ (942)
> North Bridge - AMD RD9x0 rev 02
> South Bridge - AMD SB910/950 rev 40
> BIOS - American Megatrends Inc. F1 (04/11/2016)
> Memory (RAM)
> Total Size - 32768 MB
> Type - Dual Channel (128 bit) DDR3-SDRAM
> Frequency - 669.7 MHz - Ratio 3:10
> Timings - 9-9-9-24-33 (tCAS-tRC-tRP-tRAS-tCS)
> Slot #1 Module - 8192 MB (DDR3-1337) - XMP 1.3 - P/N: 16G-D3-2400-MR
> Slot #2 Module - 8192 MB (DDR3-1337) - XMP 1.3 - P/N: 16G-D3-2400-MR
> Slot #3 Module -8192 MB (DDR3-1337) - XMP 1.3 - P/N: 16G-D3-2400-MR
> Slot #4 Module - 8192 MB (DDR3-1337) - XMP 1.3 - P/N: 16G-D3-2400-MR
> 
> Graphic Card (GPU)
> GPU Type - Radeon (TM) RX 470 Graphics (Polaris)
> GPU Brand - ASUSTeK Computer Inc.
> GPU VRAM - 4095 MB
> 
> Storage (HDD/SSD)
> Model #1 - Samsung SSD 850 EVO M.2 500GB
> Capacity #1 - 500 GB
> Model #2 - Msft Storage Space
> Capacity #2 - 1989 GB
> 
> Display
> Screen #1 - LG Electronics ( LG ULTRAWIDE (GSM59F2)
> Screen #1 Spec - 34.2 inches (86.9 cm) / 2560 x 1080 pixels @ 56-75 Hz
> 
> If you look at my memory you will see my issue. It is only running at DDR3-1337 and not at DDR3-2400.
> I have tried to go in and adjust this is BIOS, but it will not let me. I have also tried with Gigabyte's Easy Tune APP. Is there a better way?
> 
> I know that my processor may be limiting me a bit and plan to upgrade it in the near future to a FX-8350.
> 
> I also have an ASRock 970 Performance Fatlity edition motherboard as well and could return to using it as the DDR3-2400 was working in it with out any issues, but figured upgrading to 990fx would be better.






I believe your problem is trying to run 4 sticks of 8gb ram over 1333mhz, AMD IMC does not support those speeds on that many channels. If you want to run XMP settings or overclocked rAM you can only run two slots. There is another forum that covers this, or perhaps it's pages back in this very forum.

On to my question for the group:

I have a water cooled AmD 9370 on the 990fxa UD3 R5 running stock 1.46v VID @ 4.84ghz, VRM backplate modification and a fan on the heatsink keeps VRM temps in the mid 40-50c range. 1000w corsair PS, r9 380 gpu.

Does the UD3 R5 board have an amperage or voltage protection built in? I cannot for the life of me get this thing to clock stable at or above 5ghz, and when I resort to throwing voltage at it I get shut down type crashes up around 1.525v or so. VRM and Core temps are within spec before these crashes. I feel I should be able to throw more voltage, but the board seems to be limiting me.


----------



## bigdayve

@mus1mus mentioned that 4.8ghz is a common board limit for this series of mobo w/ 8 core processors. I've hardly seen a mention of 5ghz across 8 cores on this mobo series since joining this forum early this year. Plenty of people have hit 5ghz on 4 cores though. My understanding is that the voltage regulation is too inadequate to be stable at 5ghz across 8 cores, even when temperatures are within acceptable limits.


----------



## mus1mus

It is sometimes locked down by the BIOS. These new revision boards seem to have this feature CRIPPLE on.


----------



## bigdayve

I can vouch for bios crippling. My rig is certainly crippled by the locked nb frequency of 2200?. One of these days I'll have to flash the BIOS again to see if it would allow me to set it at 1800, 2000, etc..


----------



## m42BMW

Thanks for the input guys. I'm certainly not disappointed about all 8 cores running 4.8+ on the stock 1.46v vid on medium LLC... which actually droops to 1.428v under full load... but Extreme is my only other option and that just throws volts like crazy lol I've seen as much as +1.5v from set VID. This BIOS/board is also glitchy in that I can't use any + or - offset. It will post once and then the second boot will always no post. So I have to do any overclock setting the VID, not using any offset... Which is a bit disappointing as well since it then no longer idles down to .875v for daily use. Hence even more happy with 1.486ghz on the "Normal" VID of 1.46v since that allows all power saving features to still function and more performance than the 4.4/4.7 turbo factory clocks. If I got a new Sabertooth I'd bet this core clocks well up to 5.2-3ghz on water... but I don't know if it'd be worth the gamble/$ or just wait for AMD's next core/switch to intel sometime in the next year or two lol.


----------



## bigdayve

I redid my backplate mod with this backplate. I'd highly recommend it. It performs a little better than the silly mod I made out of an old heatsink.

I drilled a couple of holes in the heatsink. I made a template out of paper to properly match the holes. Instead of cutting the heatsink to exact size, I filed it as needed. Also, I allowed some of it to hang off the top of the motherboard.

Sorry for the following low quality images. In the second photo, you can barely see an aluminum colored rectangle where the heatsink hangs off the top of the mobo.


----------



## MishelLngelo

Now that makes more sense. Good job.


----------



## greg1313

hello guys i need same ideas here im trying to oc my fx 8320 to 4.50Ghz but i cant pass intelburn or prime

mobo: gigabyte 990fxa-ud3
psu : corsair cx750m
ram: kingoston hyper xsavage 1866 (in all of my oc test i have it only in auto at 1600hz with no xmp)

so i started from 4Ghz :

1) 4Ghz 1.3875V(stock) (HWmonitor read :1.356v~1.404v min/max) pass
2) 4.10Ghz 1.3875V (same) (HWmonitor read :1.356v~1.404v min/max) pass
3) 4.20 Ghz 1.40625V (HWmonitor read :1.380v~1.428v min/max) pass
4) 4.30Ghz 1.44375V (HWmonitor read :1.416v~1.469 min/max) pass
5) 4.40Ghz 1.47500V (HWmonitor read :1.452v~1.488v min/max)pass

but for 4.50 until 1.500V i cant pass ibt or prime

need to try raise up nb core voltage or cpu pll?all stettings in bios is at stock volts except from llc (medium) and cpu vcore
all power saving settings is off too
I have read on internet bad things about my m/b and i dont know if my m/b is the problem or bad chip
temps is good too like 50/54c
any ideas guys ?


----------



## m42BMW

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







There is my UD3 R5 bios, roughly anyway. I think I was experimenting with +pcie voltage a bit for GPU overclocking, heard it can help. This nets me on my fx 9730 4.84ghz cpu, 2200mhz Ram, and just shy of 2700mhz NB/HT. My core volts at load for 4.84ghz is only 1.428v, 1.46v idle. You'll want to experiment a bit, but +NB Core helps and +NB helps if your NB clocks are going up past 2200mhz.

You'll need to be sure your VRM temps are in check as well, cool CPU does not mean you are not cooking your VRMs over 100c. Many UD3 board owners that overclock have installed backplates for their VRm like the previous post. I went to Home depot and picked up a 1" wide aluminum bar and cut to length and drilled the mount holes to match, found screws at ace hardware to screw through the block back into the original heatsink mount holes. Keeps my VRM temps below 70c even under extreme bench and long term stability test.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## greg1313

Quote:


> Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
> 
> There is my UD3 R5 bios, roughly anyway. I think I was experimenting with +pcie voltage a bit for GPU overclocking, heard it can help. This nets me on my fx 9730 4.84ghz cpu, 2200mhz Ram, and just shy of 2700mhz NB/HT. My core volts at load for 4.84ghz is only 1.428v, 1.46v idle. You'll want to experiment a bit, but +NB Core helps and +NB helps if your NB clocks are going up past 2200mhz.
> 
> You'll need to be sure your VRM temps are in check as well, cool CPU does not mean you are not cooking your VRMs over 100c. Many UD3 board owners that overclock have installed backplates for their VRm like the previous post. I went to Home depot and picked up a 1" wide aluminum bar and cut to length and drilled the mount holes to match, found screws at ace hardware to screw through the block back into the original heatsink mount holes. Keeps my VRM temps below 70c even under extreme bench and long term stability test.
> Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


hey myyy friend thanks for your anwser








so what i should test?put all this voltage and test?
for now i have install 2 fans on vrms


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







i just want to see if i can run 4.50 or more so in future i will buy water cooling and full tower with a other spot for fan from behind of vrm or i have to buy better mobo to do all this


----------



## m42BMW

Just showed you my bios as a reference. You'll want to run your own tests, but +V to the NB Core will likely help you stabilize the 4.5ghz @ ~1.45-1.475v. Good job on the avRM fans, that's a good start!


----------



## greg1313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m42BMW*
> 
> Just showed you my bios as a reference. You'll want to run your own tests, but +V to the NB Core will likely help you stabilize the 4.5ghz @ ~1.45-1.475v. Good job on the avRM fans, that's a good start!


hmm i see..i just dont know how safe is to v+ nb core and how to start test it


----------



## Mega Man

Just don't go stupid and your fine.

I have degraded my Imc on a chip via 1.55 or 1.65 on cpu/nb (nb core)

Up to 1.4 or 1.5 is fine but usually that high is useless


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Jay don't go stupid and your fine.
> 
> I have degraded my Imc on a chip via 1.55 or 1.65 on cpu/nb (nb core)
> 
> Up to 1.4 or 1.5 is fine but usually that high is useless


Wait a minute, are you saying that you pushed over 1.4 v through your cpu/nb..? How did you managed to cool it? vrm's and CPU get pretty toasty at those volts..


----------



## greg1313

well with
:ram v 1.65v
nb core 1.22500v
nb v: 1.250
and cpuvcore :1.48750v

i had pass test at intelburn hight level
but at very high no luck any idea?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Jay don't go stupid and your fine.
> 
> I have degraded my Imc on a chip via 1.55 or 1.65 on cpu/nb (nb core)
> 
> Up to 1.4 or 1.5 is fine but usually that high is useless
> 
> 
> 
> Wait a minute, are you saying that you pushed over 1.4 v through your cpu/nb..? How did you managed to cool it? vrm's and CPU get pretty toasty at those volts..
Click to expand...

I have never had an issues cooling my vrms,Idk
Although too do realize those were suicide runs?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1313*
> 
> well with
> :ram v 1.65v
> nb core 1.22500v
> nb v: 1.250
> and cpuvcore :1.48750v
> 
> i had pass test at intelburn hight level
> but at very high no luck any idea?


Try 1.675 on ram, there is voltage drop on ram too


----------



## greg1313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I have never had an issues cooling my vrms,Idk
> Although too do realize those were suicide runs?
> Try 1.675 on ram, there is voltage drop on ram too


no luck


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *I have never had an issues cooling my vrms*,Idk
> Although too do realize those were suicide runs?
> Try 1.675 on ram, there is voltage drop on ram too


How is that possible? Everyone has problem with vrm temps except you. Do you have an case with very good airflow or are you simply using an bench table or something?


----------



## m42BMW

@greg1313

Try less core voltage (my 9370 takes less than 1.475v at 4.8ghz, your chip should do at least 4.5ghz on 1.475v) and raise the NB Core to 1.3v. I would try 1.45v(raise slowly if needed) core, 1.3v NB Core, leave your Nb at 1.25v for now. Would also be handy to know if you're overclocking your ram/NB with FSB or just using multiplier on the CPU.


----------



## greg1313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m42BMW*
> 
> @greg1313
> 
> Try less core voltage (my 9370 takes less than 1.475v at 4.8ghz, your chip should do at least 4.5ghz on 1.475v) and raise the NB Core to 1.3v. I would try 1.45v(raise slowly if needed) core, 1.3v NB Core, leave your Nb at 1.25v for now. Would also be handy to know if you're overclocking your ram/NB with FSB or just using multiplier on the CPU.


i tried with 1.30000v but nothing its safe to go for more?
im with multi only no fsb


----------



## m42BMW

@greg1313
It would be a very sad chip if it can't even make 4.5ghz... But it's possible that is it's limit. As stated by another in the last few posts, up to 1.4v NB Core is usually safe... Just adds alot of heat. You have to experiment, test, trial and error. I've spent, most of us have spent, hours, days even, testing setups to find maximum and/or safe daily use overclock settings.

Basically I can't tell you, no one can, exactly what settings and voltages will work for your particular build. Most of us that have successfully overclocked the FX series put in alot of online research along with trial and error testing. When you get stuck, like you did, you come research again for new ideas. Hopefully the input from others helps you reach that next clock step, but sometimes you're limited by your hardwardware and not your overclock skills. Good luck! Personally I think you should be able to make 4.5-4.6ghz no problem, once you find your hiccup that's holding you back.


----------



## greg1313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m42BMW*
> 
> @greg1313
> It would be a very sad chip if it can't even make 4.5ghz... But it's possible that is it's limit. As stated by another in the last few posts, up to 1.4v NB Core is usually safe... Just adds alot of heat. You have to experiment, test, trial and error. I've spent, most of us have spent, hours, days even, testing setups to find maximum and/or safe daily use overclock settings.
> 
> Basically I can't tell you, no one can, exactly what settings and voltages will work for your particular build. Most of us that have successfully overclocked the FX series put in alot of online research along with trial and error testing. When you get stuck, like you did, you come research again for new ideas. Hopefully the input from others helps you reach that next clock step, but sometimes you're limited by your hardwardware and not your overclock skills. Good luck! Personally I think you should be able to make 4.5-4.6ghz no problem, once you find your hiccup that's holding you back.


yes i see.. i still have to try fsb+multi to see if i can 4.50ghz


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *I have never had an issues cooling my vrms*,Idk
> Although too do realize those were suicide runs?
> Try 1.675 on ram, there is voltage drop on ram too
> 
> 
> 
> How is that possible? Everyone has problem with vrm temps except you. Do you have an case with very good airflow or are you simply using an bench table or something?
Click to expand...

One word, overkill.

I don't buy budget. I don't buy just enough. One rig has 2x240 in it and the wife never uses the gpu so it is basically just for the cpu and vrms, another has 5 360mm rads another has 5 480mm rads, ect

Budget components=budget results.

You keep saying everyone has issues, @Sgt Bilko @mus1mus Do you have issues ?

Also I don't use junk cases (not saying you do or do not, just that I don't)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m42BMW*
> 
> @greg1313
> 
> Try less core voltage (my 9370 takes less than 1.475v at 4.8ghz, your chip should do at least 4.5ghz on 1.475v) and raise the NB Core to 1.3v. I would try 1.45v(raise slowly if needed) core, 1.3v NB Core, leave your Nb at 1.25v for now. Would also be handy to know if you're overclocking your ram/NB with FSB or just using multiplier on the CPU.


I think we need to slow down, at what speeds were you last stable ?

What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?

Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1313*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *m42BMW*
> 
> @greg1313
> It would be a very sad chip if it can't even make 4.5ghz... But it's possible that is it's limit. As stated by another in the last few posts, up to 1.4v NB Core is usually safe... Just adds alot of heat. You have to experiment, test, trial and error. I've spent, most of us have spent, hours, days even, testing setups to find maximum and/or safe daily use overclock settings.
> 
> Basically I can't tell you, no one can, exactly what settings and voltages will work for your particular build. Most of us that have successfully overclocked the FX series put in alot of online research along with trial and error testing. When you get stuck, like you did, you come research again for new ideas. Hopefully the input from others helps you reach that next clock step, but sometimes you're limited by your hardwardware and not your overclock skills. Good luck! Personally I think you should be able to make 4.5-4.6ghz no problem, once you find your hiccup that's holding you back.
> 
> 
> 
> yes i see.. i still have to try fsb+multi to see if i can 4.50ghz
Click to expand...

If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> *I have never had an issues cooling my vrms*,Idk
> Although too do realize those were suicide runs?
> Try 1.675 on ram, there is voltage drop on ram too
> 
> 
> 
> How is that possible? Everyone has problem with vrm temps except you. Do you have an case with very good airflow or are you simply using an bench table or something?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> One word, overkill.
> 
> I don't buy budget. I don't buy just enough. One rig has 2x240 in it and the wife never uses the gpu so it is basically just for the cpu and vrms, another has 5 360mm rads another has 5 480mm rads, ect
> 
> Budget components=budget results.
> 
> You keep saying everyone has issues, @Sgt Bilko @mus1mus Do you have issues ?
> 
> Also I don't use junk cases (not saying you do or do not, just that I don't)
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *m42BMW*
> 
> @greg1313
> 
> Try less core voltage (my 9370 takes less than 1.475v at 4.8ghz, your chip should do at least 4.5ghz on 1.475v) and raise the NB Core to 1.3v. I would try 1.45v(raise slowly if needed) core, 1.3v NB Core, leave your Nb at 1.25v for now. Would also be handy to know if you're overclocking your ram/NB with FSB or just using multiplier on the CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think we need to slow down, at what speeds were you last stable ?
> 
> What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?
> 
> Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *greg1313*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *m42BMW*
> 
> @greg1313
> It would be a very sad chip if it can't even make 4.5ghz... But it's possible that is it's limit. As stated by another in the last few posts, up to 1.4v NB Core is usually safe... Just adds alot of heat. You have to experiment, test, trial and error. I've spent, most of us have spent, hours, days even, testing setups to find maximum and/or safe daily use overclock settings.
> 
> Basically I can't tell you, no one can, exactly what settings and voltages will work for your particular build. Most of us that have successfully overclocked the FX series put in alot of online research along with trial and error testing. When you get stuck, like you did, you come research again for new ideas. Hopefully the input from others helps you reach that next clock step, but sometimes you're limited by your hardwardware and not your overclock skills. Good luck! Personally I think you should be able to make 4.5-4.6ghz no problem, once you find your hiccup that's holding you back.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yes i see.. i still have to try fsb+multi to see if i can 4.50ghz
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same
Click to expand...

Never had an issue with vrm temps, had a CVF, CVF-Z and Sabertooth R2.0.


----------



## mus1mus

Never had an issue here myself. But I use a TurboJET and an open case for the ompph!


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One word, overkill.
> 
> I don't buy budget. I don't buy just enough. One rig has 2x240 in it and the wife never uses the gpu so it is basically just for the cpu and vrms, another has 5 360mm rads another has 5 480mm rads, ect
> 
> Budget components=budget results.
> 
> You keep saying everyone has issues, @Sgt Bilko @mus1mus Do you have issues ?
> 
> Also I don't use junk cases (not saying you do or do not, just that I don't)
> I think we need to slow down, at what speeds were you last stable ?
> 
> What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?
> 
> Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
> If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same


Agreed, i don't like budget either as i am an power user.

So you are cooling your vrm's with water? If so, may i ask what blocks you are using?

My vrm's don't get that hot either but the cooler the better. The thing that helps best in keeping temps down is the socket fan on the back side of the board.. I would like to get a heat sink or an copper plate instead of the black metal stripe on the back side. Unfortunately there is none that fit.. I was looking in to old AMD motherboards which have massive copper heat sinks on the vrm's anmd NB but i can't seem to find them either.
I was looking for something like this: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M2NE/


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One word, overkill.
> 
> I don't buy budget. I don't buy just enough. One rig has 2x240 in it and the wife never uses the gpu so it is basically just for the cpu and vrms, another has 5 360mm rads another has 5 480mm rads, ect
> 
> Budget components=budget results.
> 
> You keep saying everyone has issues, @Sgt Bilko @mus1mus Do you have issues ?
> 
> Also I don't use junk cases (not saying you do or do not, just that I don't)
> I think we need to slow down, at what speeds were you last stable ?
> 
> What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?
> 
> Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
> If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, i don't like budget either as i am an power user.
> 
> So you are cooling your vrm's with water? If so, may i ask what blocks you are using?
> 
> My vrm's don't get that hot either but the cooler the better. The thing that helps best in keeping temps down is the socket fan on the back side of the board.. I would like to get a heat sink or an copper plate instead of the black metal stripe on the back side. Unfortunately there is none that fit.. I was looking in to old AMD motherboards which have massive copper heat sinks on the vrm's anmd NB but i can't seem to find them either.
> I was looking for something like this: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M2NE/
Click to expand...

Mega only uses dedicated blocks iirc and I don't think he has one fro the UD7, they were a very limited run.

I had one of my CVF-Z but tbh it was only useful when I wanted to push above 5.0 in summer, otherwise a fan will do the job just fine.


----------



## hurricane28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Mega only uses dedicated blocks iirc and I don't think he has one fro the UD7, they were a very limited run.
> 
> I had one of my CVF-Z but tbh it was only useful when I wanted to push above 5.0 in summer, otherwise a fan will do the job just fine.


Aha. I was looking for some blocks and indeed EK released a full motherboard block for the CVF-Z for a short period of time but even then, it would not fit my Sabertooth. There are some options though. I need to do some more research about this as its very interesting.


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Mega only uses dedicated blocks iirc and I don't think he has one fro the UD7, they were a very limited run.
> 
> I had one of my CVF-Z but tbh it was only useful when I wanted to push above 5.0 in summer, otherwise a fan will do the job just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Aha. I was looking for some blocks and indeed EK released a full motherboard block for the CVF-Z for a short period of time but even then, it would not fit my Sabertooth. There are some options though. I need to do some more research about this as its very interesting.
Click to expand...

EK has only ever released 2 (technically 3) Mosfet blocks for 990FX, one was for the UD7, the other was the CVF and CVF-Z, The CVF block won't fit the Z board but the Z board block will fit the non Z.

I think Koolance might have made one for the Sabertooth R2.0 but I'm not sure, never looked into it as the temps were perfectly fine with an 80mm fan on it


----------



## greg1313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One word, overkill.
> 
> What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?
> 
> Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
> If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same


no only multi nothing else yet
last stable 4.30ghz 1.44945v (1.416/1.464 min/max)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One word, overkill.
> 
> I don't buy budget. I don't buy just enough. One rig has 2x240 in it and the wife never uses the gpu so it is basically just for the cpu and vrms, another has 5 360mm rads another has 5 480mm rads, ect
> 
> Budget components=budget results.
> 
> You keep saying everyone has issues, @Sgt Bilko @mus1mus Do you have issues ?
> 
> Also I don't use junk cases (not saying you do or do not, just that I don't)
> I think we need to slow down, at what speeds were you last stable ?
> 
> What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?
> 
> Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
> If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, i don't like budget either as i am an power user.
> 
> So you are cooling your vrm's with water? If so, may i ask what blocks you are using?
> 
> My vrm's don't get that hot either but the cooler the better. The thing that helps best in keeping temps down is the socket fan on the back side of the board.. I would like to get a heat sink or an copper plate instead of the black metal stripe on the back side. Unfortunately there is none that fit.. I was looking in to old AMD motherboards which have massive copper heat sinks on the vrm's anmd NB but i can't seem to find them either.
> I was looking for something like this: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M2NE/
Click to expand...

I use the block, made for the board.

The only one I have on air is the sabertooth.

And still not hot, even on suicide runs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One word, overkill.
> 
> I don't buy budget. I don't buy just enough. One rig has 2x240 in it and the wife never uses the gpu so it is basically just for the cpu and vrms, another has 5 360mm rads another has 5 480mm rads, ect
> 
> Budget components=budget results.
> 
> You keep saying everyone has issues, @Sgt Bilko @mus1mus Do you have issues ?
> 
> Also I don't use junk cases (not saying you do or do not, just that I don't)
> I think we need to slow down, at what speeds were you last stable ?
> 
> What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?
> 
> Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
> If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, i don't like budget either as i am an power user.
> 
> So you are cooling your vrm's with water? If so, may i ask what blocks you are using?
> 
> My vrm's don't get that hot either but the cooler the better. The thing that helps best in keeping temps down is the socket fan on the back side of the board.. I would like to get a heat sink or an copper plate instead of the black metal stripe on the back side. Unfortunately there is none that fit.. I was looking in to old AMD motherboards which have massive copper heat sinks on the vrm's anmd NB but i can't seem to find them either.
> I was looking for something like this: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M2NE/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Mega only uses dedicated blocks iirc and I don't think he has one fro the UD7, they were a very limited run.
> *
> I had one of my CVF-Z but tbh it was only useful when I wanted to push above 5.0 in summer, otherwise a fan will do the job just fine.
Click to expand...

Bold- your right I don't have one, i have 2.

Not bold,
Also true
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Mega only uses dedicated blocks iirc and I don't think he has one fro the UD7, they were a very limited run.
> 
> I had one of my CVF-Z but tbh it was only useful when I wanted to push above 5.0 in summer, otherwise a fan will do the job just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Aha. I was looking for some blocks and indeed EK released a full motherboard block for the CVF-Z for a short period of time but even then, it would not fit my Sabertooth. There are some options though. I need to do some more research about this as its very interesting.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> EK has only ever released 2 (technically 3) Mosfet blocks for 990FX, one was for the UD7, the other was the CVF and CVF-Z, The CVF block won't fit the Z board but the Z board block will fit the non Z.
> 
> I think Koolance might have made one for the Sabertooth R2.0 but I'm not sure, never looked into it as the temps were perfectly fine with an 80mm fan on it
Click to expand...

No Koolance didn't fyi they have generic blocks
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *greg1313*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One word, overkill.
> 
> What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?
> 
> Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
> If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same
> 
> 
> 
> no only multi nothing else yet
> last stable 4.30ghz 1.44945v (1.416/1.464 min/max)
Click to expand...

You need coolgate on your vrm first then upgrade cpu pull to 2.695v


----------



## Mega Man

Derete


----------



## Sgt Bilko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One word, overkill.
> 
> I don't buy budget. I don't buy just enough. One rig has 2x240 in it and the wife never uses the gpu so it is basically just for the cpu and vrms, another has 5 360mm rads another has 5 480mm rads, ect
> 
> Budget components=budget results.
> 
> You keep saying everyone has issues, @Sgt Bilko @mus1mus Do you have issues ?
> 
> Also I don't use junk cases (not saying you do or do not, just that I don't)
> I think we need to slow down, at what speeds were you last stable ?
> 
> What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?
> 
> Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
> If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed, i don't like budget either as i am an power user.
> 
> So you are cooling your vrm's with water? If so, may i ask what blocks you are using?
> 
> My vrm's don't get that hot either but the cooler the better. The thing that helps best in keeping temps down is the socket fan on the back side of the board.. I would like to get a heat sink or an copper plate instead of the black metal stripe on the back side. Unfortunately there is none that fit.. I was looking in to old AMD motherboards which have massive copper heat sinks on the vrm's anmd NB but i can't seem to find them either.
> I was looking for something like this: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M2NE/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I use the block, made for the board.
> 
> The only one I have on air is the sabertooth.
> 
> And still not hot, even on suicide runs.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> One word, overkill.
> 
> I don't buy budget. I don't buy just enough. One rig has 2x240 in it and the wife never uses the gpu so it is basically just for the cpu and vrms, another has 5 360mm rads another has 5 480mm rads, ect
> 
> Budget components=budget results.
> 
> You keep saying everyone has issues, @Sgt Bilko @mus1mus Do you have issues ?
> 
> Also I don't use junk cases (not saying you do or do not, just that I don't)
> I think we need to slow down, at what speeds were you last stable ?
> 
> What has changed since ? Memory? Cpu/nb? Cpu speed?
> 
> Are you overclocking more then 1 thing at a time ?
> If you can't get it multi only I doubt you can fsb and multi with all other things the same
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agreed, i don't like budget either as i am an power user.
> 
> So you are cooling your vrm's with water? If so, may i ask what blocks you are using?
> 
> My vrm's don't get that hot either but the cooler the better. The thing that helps best in keeping temps down is the socket fan on the back side of the board.. I would like to get a heat sink or an copper plate instead of the black metal stripe on the back side. Unfortunately there is none that fit.. I was looking in to old AMD motherboards which have massive copper heat sinks on the vrm's anmd NB but i can't seem to find them either.
> I was looking for something like this: https://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M2NE/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> *Mega only uses dedicated blocks iirc and I don't think he has one fro the UD7, they were a very limited run.
> *
> I had one of my CVF-Z but tbh it was only useful when I wanted to push above 5.0 in summer, otherwise a fan will do the job just fine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bold- your right I don't have one, i have 2.
> 
> Not bold,
> Also true
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sgt Bilko*
> 
> Mega only uses dedicated blocks iirc and I don't think he has one fro the UD7, they were a very limited run.
> 
> I had one of my CVF-Z but tbh it was only useful when I wanted to push above 5.0 in summer, otherwise a fan will do the job just fine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Aha. I was looking for some blocks and indeed EK released a full motherboard block for the CVF-Z for a short period of time but even then, it would not fit my Sabertooth. There are some options though. I need to do some more research about this as its very interesting.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> EK has only ever released 2 (technically 3) Mosfet blocks for 990FX, one was for the UD7, the other was the CVF and CVF-Z, The CVF block won't fit the Z board but the Z board block will fit the non Z.
> 
> I think Koolance might have made one for the Sabertooth R2.0 but I'm not sure, never looked into it as the temps were perfectly fine with an 80mm fan on it
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No Koolance didn't fyi they have generic blocks
Click to expand...

Wow....didn't realise you had two of them haha, a good UD7 is hard enough to find here let alone the waterblock for it









and good to know, thanks for the correction


----------



## Shoelesshobo

Hey guys, I am thinking of finally getting away from this stock heatsink I am using. I was looking at this one. Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L7UZMAK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

My concern is looking at the board plus the high profile RAM I am using (Corsair Vengeance) I don't think I will be able to fit it properly. I am not concerned with height as I have a very roomy case my only concern is the fans on the heatsink and the mobo's heatsink conflicting with this unit.

Am I being paranoid? Will it work? If not can you guys recommend a good non liquid cooling cpu heatsink that fits well onto this mobo?


----------



## GaToMaLaCo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shoelesshobo*
> 
> Hey guys, I am thinking of finally getting away from this stock heatsink I am using. I was looking at this one. Noctua NH-D15 6 heatpipe with Dual NF-A15 140mm fans.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L7UZMAK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
> 
> My concern is looking at the board plus the high profile RAM I am using (Corsair Vengeance) I don't think I will be able to fit it properly. I am not concerned with height as I have a very roomy case my only concern is the fans on the heatsink and the mobo's heatsink conflicting with this unit.
> 
> Am I being paranoid? Will it work? If not can you guys recommend a good non liquid cooling cpu heatsink that fits well onto this mobo?


Its better if you go with the Noctua NH-D15S plus an additional noctua fan . You will have more space between your video card and the heatsink itself (future proof). If you are concerned about your memory sticks google them with the word NH-D15 and see if there are pics of somebody using that combination.


----------



## Shoelesshobo

That actually looks like
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GaToMaLaCo*
> 
> Its better if you go with the Noctua NH-D15S plus an additional noctua fan . You will have more space between your video card and the heatsink itself (future proof). If you are concerned about your memory sticks google them with the word NH-D15 and see if there are pics of somebody using that combination.


That actually looks like it would be perfect for what I am doing. Thanks man!


----------



## vividshock

So did anyone find the fix for the northbridge multiplier not-working for ud3 rev 4.1? I reflashed my bios, but that still didn't do anything.


----------



## Mega Man

We did, don't use x12


----------



## vividshock

What do you mean? Of course I changed the multiplier, but changing the multiplier had no effect whatsoever as hwinfo shows me. Only by raising the reference clock was I able to oc the northbridge.


----------



## Mega Man

? must be a new bug ? sorry not failure with it


----------



## vividshock

Not a new bug. I found one other person who had the same problem, but........I couldn't find a solution as everyone else after his post completely ignored his problem.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vividshock*
> 
> Not a new bug. I found one other person who had the same problem, but........I couldn't find a solution as everyone else after his post completely ignored his problem.


Same problem here. I can change the nb frequency, but it has no effect. The htt multi works, but not the nb. It puts a real damper on any blck oc. I haven't tried to fix it lately, but I have flashed the BIOS this year and it did not fix the problem. Maybe I should contact customer service, but I have a refurbished board ?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vividshock*
> 
> What do you mean? Of course I changed the multiplier, but changing the multiplier had no effect whatsoever as hwinfo shows me. Only by raising the reference clock was I able to oc the northbridge.


I believe the max NB multi is 11 (200x11=2200 default).

only when you use the FSB can you OC past 2200 on 11 multi or use it to knock the NB down to keep it inline when OC'ing FSB.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> I believe the max NB multi is 11 (200x11=2200 default).
> 
> only when you use the FSB can you OC past 2200 on 11 multi or use it to knock the NB down to keep it inline when OC'ing FSB.


I can't knock the NB multi down. Any time I increase blck/fsb, I also increase the NB frequency.

Just to be clear, I cannot really change the multiplier up or down from 11x. I can change the multiplier to any number I like up to 11 and save the change in the bios, but it doesn't take effect. Monitoring programs like HWinfo64 report that the multiplier is at 11 even after I change it in the Bios.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vividshock*
> 
> Not a new bug. I found one other person who had the same problem, but........I couldn't find a solution as everyone else after his post completely ignored his problem.


I need to address this, not answering is NOT ignoring. By the very act of not answering is an answer, no, we don't know and no we can't help.

We are not gigabyte Tech
Support, nor are we paid, we do this on our own time and help as we are avail.


----------



## vividshock

Does this nb bug only happen to UD3 rev 4.1 or were the previous revisons afflicted with this? I too can confirm going up or down on the nb multiplier has no affect whatsoever. Did anyone try flashing the first bios version of this or did everyone jump straight to the latest one?


----------



## Mega Man

iirc i have heard of one other person dealing wiht it, and just that board. i never heard of a ud7 or ud5 with it.

giga is really good at making bios to fix stuff like this, you may want to try contacting their support


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> iirc i have heard of one other person dealing wiht it, and just that board. i never heard of a ud7 or ud5 with it.
> 
> giga is really good at making bios to fix stuff like this, you may want to try contacting their support


I'm going to give that a shot. I'm getting a new CPU cooler in the next month or so. Although, I don't expect a huge difference in performance, it'll be more fun to tinker with it if I have the multi available.


----------



## bigdayve

I submitted the following message in a ticket to Gigabyte. We'll see how it goes.
Quote:


> I cannot change my NB frequency in the bios. I can turn it down from the default 2200 value and save the change. However, hardware monitoring programs reveal that the frequency has not in fact been changed. Please let me know if you need me to provide screenshots or other information to better illustrate the problem.
> 
> Thank you,
> David


----------



## Undervolter

Hi guys, 970 UD3P here, but i wouldn't be surprised if this happens in 990 models too. Any manual change in vcore, other than auto, makes cool n quiet to drop frequency when idle ,but never the voltage. Anyone knows if there is some weird BIOS setting combination that solves this?


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Hi guys, 970 UD3P here, but i wouldn't be surprised if this happens in 990 models too. Any manual change in vcore, other than auto, makes cool n quiet to drop frequency when idle ,but never the voltage. Anyone knows if there is some weird BIOS setting combination that solves this?


that's a good question and yes there is a way...

Instead of using the voltage "absolute"" setting, (if your board supports it) us the voltage "Offset" instead. What that does is essentially ADDs voltage to the default at any giving state allowing the voltage to drop with CnQ instead of manually "locking" it in a the voltage set.

so for instance: if you know you need 1.45v to run at your max OC, and your proc has a default of 1.35v, runn the voltage offset to +.100v.

no I don't have experience on your specific board, but on the 990's the offset is the next option in thee bios below the CPU voltage setting and will only highlight when set to auto, then you can offset instead of locking in a manual voltage.

I hope this makes sense


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> that's a good question and yes there is a way...
> 
> Instead of using the voltage "absolute"" setting, (if your board supports it) us the voltage "Offset" instead. What that does is essentially ADDs voltage to the default at any giving state allowing the voltage to drop with CnQ instead of manually "locking" it in a the voltage set.
> 
> so for instance: if you know you need 1.45v to run at your max OC, and your proc has a default of 1.35v, runn the voltage offset to +.100v.
> 
> no I don't have experience on your specific board, but on the 990's the offset is the next option in thee bios below the CPU voltage setting and will only highlight when set to auto, then you can offset instead of locking in a manual voltage.
> 
> I hope this makes sense


Thanks, i 've tried that, but it seems it doesn't work too well in this motherboard, at least when undervolting.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/63890#post_25714349

But, if it works with overvolting, it could be useful, cause i got a 8300 for spare, which comes at 1.16v stock voltage, which is no way to be able to run 4Ghz at that voltage. Hmmm.

Rep for helping anyway.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Thanks, i 've tried that, but it seems it doesn't work too well in this motherboard, at least when undervolting.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/63890#post_25714349
> 
> But, if it works with overvolting, it could be useful, cause i got a 8300 for spare, which comes at 1.16v stock voltage, which is no way to be able to run 4Ghz at that voltage. Hmmm.
> 
> Rep for helping anyway.


LOL, I guess I should have looked at your forum name hahah. I assumed OC, not undervolting







(my bad)

I suppose I am helpless with experience there then. I do recall running into a problem like that with my home server however... If i remember correctly I ended up having to use K-Stat and build the states with that little guy because the board didn't want to under volt either.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> LOL, I guess I should have looked at your forum name hahah. I assumed OC, not undervolting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (my bad)
> 
> I suppose I am helpless with experience there then. I do recall running into a problem like that with my home server however... If i remember correctly I ended up having to use K-Stat and build the states with that little guy because the board didn't want to under volt either.


You can always trust Gigabyte to make a crazy BIOS. Yeah, i use K10stat with my Athlon IIs, i love it. I was also using AMDMsrTweaker in the past (see my sig), but i am too tired to find P-States again. I just wanted to undervolt the higher P-State. Which i kind of did, by using low LLC. It's the only thing that seems to work, cause with the offset, i put different negative values and it insists on giving 1.26v regardless. So i will stick with the low LLC... The good news is that the motherboard runs very cool, so, it's OK. It was more a matter of undervolting honour.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> You can always trust Gigabyte to make a crazy BIOS. Yeah, i use K10stat with my Athlon IIs, i love it. I was also using AMDMsrTweaker in the past (see my sig), but i am too tired to find P-States again. I just wanted to undervolt the higher P-State. Which i kind of did, by using low LLC. It's the only thing that seems to work, cause with the offset, i put different negative values and it insists on giving 1.26v regardless. So i will stick with the low LLC... The good news is that the motherboard runs very cool, so, it's OK. It was more a matter of undervolting honour.


Very cool, LLC idea is a good one! I fear I wouldn't have thought of that.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> Very cool, LLC idea is a good one! I fear I wouldn't have thought of that.


I was pretty desperate, so i ended up touching the one thing that i never touch when undervolting. Stock voltage is 1.325v, with LLC low i get 1.28-1.296v under stress, which is actually close to the 1.27-1.28v that my UD3P rev1.0 needs for 4Ghz. So it's not perfect undervolting, but it's close. This rev2.1 actually behaves similarly to the rev1.0., as far as undervolting goes, i just can't remember if rev1.0 has offset option or not in the BIOS (i have it stored in its box). Anyway, that's one weird way to undervolt, but hey, one becomes OCN member and sooner or later he starts doing weird things...


----------



## mprain13

Hello, I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 1.1) and I'm trying to update the bios with a USB drive, but it shows up as an empty floppy when I'm at the Q-flash menu.

I checked another post on overclock.net and the person with the same issue solved it with an external floppy drive.

This solution will not work for me as I cannot obtain a floppy drive. I tried using another USB drive and it also shows up as a floppy drive.









I made sure to format the drives to fat-32 (full format) and only copying over the bios files.

Please help


----------



## bigdayve

Have you tried any of the other bios flashing methods? I think there are 3. IIRC, I used @Bios and it flashes the bios from the OS.


----------



## Mega Man

Did you extract the file? Double click the file in windows, iirc it is an exe file that makes the bios file


----------



## mprain13

@bigdave, I was warned to never use @bios and I'm really not inclined to use it. I extracted the file I downloaded, in which there are 3 files, one is the BIOS, one is an autorun.bat, and the other is an executable. For some reason, I can see the .exe on another computer (32 bit) but not on my desktop (64 bit) which is where I'm trying to update.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mprain13*
> 
> Hello, I have a GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 1.1) and I'm trying to update the bios with a USB drive, but it shows up as an empty floppy when I'm at the Q-flash menu.
> 
> I checked another post on overclock.net and the person with the same issue solved it with an external floppy drive.
> 
> This solution will not work for me as I cannot obtain a floppy drive. I tried using another USB drive and it also shows up as a floppy drive.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made sure to format the drives to fat-32 (full format) and only copying over the bios files.
> 
> Please help


It seems like I had trouble with @bios, then I tried Q-flash, and then I went back to @bios. For me @bios worked ok. I have my NB multiplier bug that I am waiting to hear back on and the sleep states don't work too great, but I do have the F3 version of the Bios working on my machine. Using @bios didn't hurt anything on my rig after using it.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mprain13*
> 
> @bigdave, I was warned to never use @bios and I'm really not inclined to use it. I extracted the file I downloaded, in which there are 3 files, one is the BIOS, one is an autorun.bat, and the other is an executable. For some reason, I can see the .exe on another computer (32 bit) but not on my desktop (64 bit) which is where I'm trying to update.


1 verify you are using bios for the correct REV of your board, they are usually named differently for different revs.

(IE 1b,2c,3,4c ect, a1,b,b3,c1,ect )

2 make sure you are not using a usb3 port.

3 make sure you did not disable the usb ports for boot up to make boot up faster ( you should always revert back to default to flash bios anyway )


----------



## MishelLngelo

Which BIOS version do you have now ? I updated successfully several versions thru @BIOS utility and W7 to F14b.


----------



## mprain13

[SOLVED!]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mprain13*
> 
> @bigdave, I was warned to never use @bios and I'm really not inclined to use it. I extracted the file I downloaded, in which there are 3 files, one is the BIOS, one is an autorun.bat, and the other is an executable. For some reason, I can see the .exe on another computer (32 bit) but not on my desktop (64 bit) which is where I'm trying to update.


I don't know why, but formatting the USB drive on a windows 7 system did the trick and I managed to update my BIOS!


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mprain13*
> 
> [SOLVED!]
> I don't know why, but formatting the USB drive on a windows 7 system did the trick and I managed to update my BIOS!


Glad you figured something out!


----------



## m42BMW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadGoat*
> 
> that's a good question and yes there is a way...
> 
> Instead of using the voltage "absolute"" setting, (if your board supports it) us the voltage "Offset" instead. What that does is essentially ADDs voltage to the default at any giving state allowing the voltage to drop with CnQ instead of manually "locking" it in a the voltage set.
> 
> so for instance: if you know you need 1.45v to run at your max OC, and your proc has a default of 1.35v, runn the voltage offset to +.100v.
> 
> no I don't have experience on your specific board, but on the 990's the offset is the next option in thee bios below the CPU voltage setting and will only highlight when set to auto, then you can offset instead of locking in a manual voltage.
> 
> I hope this makes sense


When I use offset on my UD3 R5 it will boot once with the correct offset voltage, but then no boot after first restart/shut down. Have to pull the battery to reset bios to get it to post again. This is using + or - offset to core voltage. If I manually set voltage I can reach over 5ghz on my fx9730, but I lose any power savings for daily use at those clocks, kinda frustrating. Anyone know if this has ever been addressed?


----------



## vividshock

Tested a beta bios that was given to me. It seems like its working.


----------



## MadGoat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m42BMW*
> 
> When I use offset on my UD3 R5 it will boot once with the correct offset voltage, but then no boot after first restart/shut down. Have to pull the battery to reset bios to get it to post again. This is using + or - offset to core voltage. If I manually set voltage I can reach over 5ghz on my fx9730, but I lose any power savings for daily use at those clocks, kinda frustrating. Anyone know if this has ever been addressed?


Turn your turbo boost off, or set it to the same multi as your oc


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vividshock*
> 
> Tested a beta bios that was given to me. It seems like its working.


Did you get the NB multi to work? I'm still in communication with Giga with no resolution just yet.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vividshock*
> 
> Tested a beta bios that was given to me. It seems like its working.


Did you get the NB multi to work? I'm still in communication with Giga with no resolution just yet.


----------



## vividshock

Yes I was able to get it to work...not sure if I'm allowed to upload bios though.....


----------



## Mega Man

You can assuming they didn't mark the email confidential, even then you could, but it would be unethical.

Or if you signed a non disclosure contact,

All of the above you would know about however and giga had been fine with the sharing of beta bios.

I am glad it was an easy fix


----------



## MishelLngelo

Well, I got my F14b which was newest one and beta at that time when I downloaded it straight from their site.


----------



## bigdayve

I got a response from Gigabyte about the locked NB multiplier. They sent me a new bios, which I don't think is available on the website. The new bios fixed the problem!

I have the Revision 4.1 of the board. My former bios was the version "F3" and Gigabyte sent me the "F4a."

The communication was a slow process via email and they had a holiday break in between. Overall, I give thumbs up to Gigabyte technical support.


----------



## Mega Man

The "a" signifies beta bios. Congrats I am glad you got it solved.


----------



## scruffus

Hey everybody, first time poster on this thread, long time owner of a 990fxa-ud3 rev 3 board. Not sure where to post this question I have but I thought I would try it here first in case my problem is a motherboard problem.
I was surfing youtube this morning and came across someone with a video where they ran a few benchmarks with a gtx1080, and I noticed that their cinebench R15 openGL test was in the 150ish fps range. I looked up mine from a few weeks ago when I first bought my 1080, and saw that it was 84 fps. I started to look around and I find that pretty much everybody gets around 150 fps on that benchmark with the gtx 1080.

Of course this is across all systems, the original video was a skylake chip and motherboard, so someone might say cpu bottleneck (FX8350). but I really don't think cpu bottleneck is my problem. I ran the test several times today, and my cpu usage during the test never broke 28% (45% on cpu1). And GPU temps stayed below 39C, so it wasn't thermal throttling either.

I tried taking the card off the PCI riser I'm currently using and plugged it directly into the PCI slot, and got the same ~85fps. I tried plugging it into PCIx16 slot2 as well, same results.

I'm baffled. Oddly enough my 1080 gets similar results to what most people get on other benchtests, like firestrike and valley, but not on cinebench. Is there something wonky about cinebenchR15 and the FX chipsets? Has anyone else run into this sort of thing?

Probably headed for a zen chip/motherboard in the near future, but I intend that this board will continue to live on in somebody's rig or other, so I would like to solve this problem if possible- any help is greatly appreciated!

See rig below if any of that info in there helps.


----------



## mus1mus

Cunebench is sheet with FX. And that OpenGL Test is nothing but sheet as well.


----------



## scruffus

yeah I guess I shouldn't get too worked up about any benchmarks, gaming or workload the computer does all that I want it to. I just get worried if I see other people get vastly better results, if its something wrong with the card I would want to know. I actually went back and took a closer look at typical 1080 firestrike scores as well and it seems that actually my score is lower there as well.


----------



## mus1mus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scruffus*
> 
> yeah I guess I shouldn't get too worked up about any benchmarks, gaming or workload the computer does all that I want it to. I just get worried if I see other people get vastly better results, if its something wrong with the card I would want to know. I actually went back and took a closer look at typical 1080 firestrike scores as well and it seems that actually my score is lower there as well.


Cinebench's OpenGL test is not even considered as a helpful benchmark. It also rely to the CPU. Look for other Benchmark to verify your woes. Anything with an AMD Peocessor will struggle on that bench.

Firestrike acts the same way. Don't look at the Actual Score displayed by 3DMark. Focus on just the Graphics Score. That is independent of the CPU.

Your PCIe Lane speed may also affect the score when compared to an Intel system. PCIe2.0 vs 3.0. But that may not be too big of a difference.


----------



## johnniedoo

I have a GA990FXA UD3 rev 1.1 that began to smell of burning, of course shut down first then i tried to reboot as I guessed the shutdown was from a software update incompatibility issue. then , I smelled the tell tale odor without seeing any plume or anything. i saw a yellowish glow coming from the VRM or MOSFET plastic cover ,or the pin that holds in behind the optical in port. The smell is strong by the back hole in the board where the cpu power plug is.
I am pretty sure the board is shot ,no idea why, hadnt been messed with in 2months or so when I added a FX8350 to replace the 8120 and i put a RX480 to replace the HD 7950. All was well, the AIO cooler pump was working, not hot, just warm as it usually was and nothing else i could get at was even warm to the touch,
no smoke damage anywhere but if i put the power plug back in I do smell the same acrid smell, no post ,no boot of course
Ive had a few good years with this board and none of the nagging issues up till now. I keep an eye on the temps and voltages . i have not overvolted anything either.
I am fairly sure I will track something down , but, I need another or new AM3+ board. I dont know whether the still being sold UD3s are going to be worth as a replacement or whether I would be getting a totally changed ,more that revised, motherboard
Otherwise, I might think of getting the UD5 as they can go on sale to the price level i am able to make for a replacement
thanks
john


----------



## bigdayve

Hi John. To me it sounds like your VRM's went up in flames or very nearly because you said, "I saw a yellowish glow coming from the VRM or MOSFET plastic cover." Do you keep track of VRM temps with your temperature monitoring?

What is you budget for the new motherboard? Do you intend to overclock? The GA-990 boards tend to have Bios issues so I would recommend another brand for AM3+. From what I have been reading the best $100 range AM3+ board is probably the Asus Pro Gaming Aura. It has a lot of modern features like M2 and USB 3.1 and it is supposed to be a capable overclocking motherboard to boot.


----------



## johnniedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Hi John. To me it sounds like your VRM's went up in flames or very nearly because you said, "I saw a yellowish glow coming from the VRM or MOSFET plastic cover." Do you keep track of VRM temps with your temperature monitoring?
> 
> What is you budget for the new motherboard? Do you intend to overclock? The GA-990 boards tend to have Bios issues so I would recommend another brand for AM3+. From what I have been reading the best $100 range AM3+ board is probably the Asus Pro Gaming Aura. It has a lot of modern features like M2 and USB 3.1 and it is supposed to be a capable overclocking motherboard to boot.


I really liked the UD3 rev1.1 i had, from reading this forum for years, I certainly leaned plenty, and , yes, i did monitor them all the time.I used the recommended utilities too. I also had extra fans inside the case which was a HAF922 , blowing on the area. the temps never went into the areas of concern, ever. and i was even more diligent than before after i went from the 8120 to 8350 cpus I did not overclock the fx8350 much at all ,yet, was only a couple of weeks old.
oh, well. and, thanks for that board input, i have spent an hour for 2 days staring at the new egg screens trying to read up on all the options in just this $100 area. I had been up in the air whether to follow some minor gigabyte loyalty or get another asus board. they are both the same range as are a couple of others.
i saw no sale on the board you've mentioned so, was going to wait a day or so, since i dont think the price will go up and might only go down
I have just about taken the board out and was hoping the cpu didnt get hurt in the melt down. I do not think it did, no heat or anything else, just the glowing vrm area or under that plastic thing or even the post or pin thing which attaches it. after seeing so much here on those things frailties i sort of guessed it might be. I did get a fairly long run out of them , and, I had the 8120 overclocked over 4.1 till i took it out a week or 2 ago. i thought the 8350 might be kinder to it. ran cooler, for sure at the near stock number i left it at. no fsb OC though just the multiplier to be safe.


----------



## bigdayve

There is always the used market too. I might sink my claws into a high end board if I find something cheap from a highly rated buyer. AM3+ prices may fall even more after the Ryzen lineup comes out.


----------



## johnniedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> There is always the used market too. I might sink my claws into a high end board if I find something cheap from a highly rated buyer. AM3+ prices may fall even more after the Ryzen lineup comes out.


I have only gotten higher end boards but not the highest. I have gigabyte 790, 890 and 990 boards fxa versions i had asus 79fx too all still going strong i have to say. the newest was the 990fxa ud3 and the first to go, i hadnt even put my hands inside that one in weeks either.
I just looked at a lower prices Gigabyte 990X gaming rev 1 new for about the same $100 , just cant find any user reviews, I am guessing it is a new model? or just a renamed made over GA970 Gaming SLI ,both are rev 1 and both offer the 2 gpu slots. the 970s usually didnt do the sli or crossfire. i am no real expert on which boards do what since it changes from version to version anyway. Just see NewEgg sells both,both spec out the same as does Gigabyte web pages, to my quick look that is, could be usb ports i missed, but i dont think so.
I do need to keep one around for my 2 fx processors . I have had very good luck with the mid/higher end gigabyte boards and they had the features that were top shelf at the times.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnniedoo*
> 
> I have only gotten higher end boards but not the highest. I have gigabyte 790, 890 and 990 boards fxa versions i had asus 79fx too all still going strong i have to say. the newest was the 990fxa ud3 and the first to go, i hadnt even put my hands inside that one in weeks either.
> I just looked at a lower prices Gigabyte 990X gaming rev 1 new for about the same $100 , just cant find any user reviews, I am guessing it is a new model? or just a renamed made over GA970 Gaming SLI ,both are rev 1 and both offer the 2 gpu slots. the 970s usually didnt do the sli or crossfire. i am no real expert on which boards do what since it changes from version to version anyway. Just see NewEgg sells both,both spec out the same as does Gigabyte web pages, to my quick look that is, could be usb ports i missed, but i dont think so.
> I do need to keep one around for my 2 fx processors . I have had very good luck with the mid/higher end gigabyte boards and they had the features that were top shelf at the times.


Several manufacturers came out with new boards last year including Gigabyte, MSI, and ASUS. All three of those companies I mentioned by name use gaming in some of their models which makes differentiating them a little confusing. Their feature sets and prices are all pretty similar, so I think you'll have to do some digging in the forums to find the best one for you. My pick would be the ASUS Aura. I would stay away from Gigabyte because many customers I have talked to on OC.net have had bios problems on the 990-UD... lineup. I've had bios problems too with my board. They certainly don't update their bios very often.


----------



## johnniedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Several manufacturers came out with new boards last year including Gigabyte, MSI, and ASUS. All three of those companies I mentioned by name use gaming in some of their models which makes differentiating them a little confusing. Their feature sets and prices are all pretty similar, so I think you'll have to do some digging in the forums to find the best one for you. My pick would be the ASUS Aura. I would stay away from Gigabyte because many customers I have talked to on OC.net have had bios problems on the 990-UD... lineup. I've had bios problems too with my board. They certainly don't update their bios very often.


Thanks,
been doing that 'research' by reading forums till my eyes burnt. I appreciate the feedback about the current Gig boards. I found that they call the 'new' board 990X while the other 2 still use the 970 identification yet all allow for crossfire,sli by offering the 2pcie slots i guess. At least that is how i figured it.
I will be taking your advice i am sure with the Asus. I have great experience with them, though a few yrs back. I went to gigabyte because i no longer used or needed all the software Asus had and saved a few bucks. gigabyte software was never any good and i dont think i ever used any of it and the construction of the boards seemed high quality, till this 990. I am using my 890fxa ud5 and love it. I have to 2 lan ports that seem to make my cable internet connection go even faster with the docsis3. I may be imagining it though. i never would have gotten the 990fxa if the am3+ cpu fit and worked properly. as far as the bios updates, gigabyte hasnt updated the bios in years and years. i forgot how lacking they are in this area.
john


----------



## Timbo-42

I just ordered a GA-990FXA-UD3 Ultra (rev. 1.0) from Newegg, to replace my M5A97 LE2.0 that has a fudged x16 express lane, that prevents me from using my Sapphire hd 7950. I really did want a Sabretooth, but they are just way too pricey for a dead platform. Anyway, can you all give me the scoop, on what to expect from this mobo? Did Gigabyte ever work out the bios issues? I will be attempting to overclock my Phenom ii 965 be c3 on this mobo, and hopefully it will do much better then the 3.9 ghz max I could get out of my current set up. I want to be able to play Battlefield 1 with this set up, if it is possible. Any info would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timbo-42*
> 
> I just ordered a GA-990FXA-UD3 Ultra (rev. 1.0) from Newegg, to replace my M5A97 LE2.0 that has a fudged x16 express lane, that prevents me from using my Sapphire hd 7950. I really did want a Sabretooth, but they are just way too pricey for a dead platform. Anyway, can you all give me the scoop, on what to expect from this mobo? Did Gigabyte ever work out the bios issues? I will be attempting to overclock my Phenom ii 965 be c3 on this mobo, and hopefully it will do much better then the 3.9 ghz max I could get out of my current set up. I want to be able to play Battlefield 1 with this set up, if it is possible. Any info would be greatly appreciated.


Uh, that revision of the UD3 hasn't been made in about five or six years. Do you mean the UD3 R5 which is currently the version of the UD3 in production? My mistake. Missed the "Ultra" part. Geez, how many half baked boards is Gigabyte going to make with different names and paint schemes? They are virtually the same boards.


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Uh, that revision of the UD3 hasn't been made in about five or six years. Do you mean the UD3 R5 which is currently the version of the UD3 in production? My mistake. Missed the "Ultra" part. Geez, how many half baked boards is Gigabyte going to make with different names and paint schemes? They are virtually the same boards.


They tweak and rebrand the hardware and do not adequately support the software


----------



## Timbo-42

I just installed my GA-990FXA-UD3 Ultra last night, and unfortunately, it does not seem to support overclocking a phenom ii. None of my bios settings transfer to windows, sadly. I guess I will have to now buy an fx chip, so I can play new games....the plan was to overclock the crap out of the phenom, to make up for how old it is....guess not.


----------



## Rogue1266

My board seen my chip when I first installed it.... Hmmmmmm ?????


----------



## Timbo-42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rogue1266*
> 
> 
> 
> My board seen my chip when I first installed it.... Hmmmmmm ?????


Is your board a UD3, or a UD3 ultra? Mine is the ultra. My theory is that Gigabyte is not fully supporting phenoms with their newer revisions, but I don't know for sure. I am waiting on Gigabyte to open this morning, then I'm gonna call them, and get to the bottom of this.


----------



## Rogue1266

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timbo-42*
> 
> Is your board a UD3, or a UD3 ultra? Mine is the ultra. My theory is that Gigabyte is not fully supporting phenoms with their newer revisions, but I don't know for sure. I am waiting on Gigabyte to open this morning, then I'm gonna call them, and get to the bottom of this.


It's an Ultra Durable / GA-990FXA-UD3 / 'REV': 4.0............ I, my self had a problem when I first bought this board; my be a little over a year and a few months ago. I wanted a new board for our chip 'WE' have, so I can OC it a little just to see what it would do in these board. But every time I would
jack-up the multiplier to 19.5 or higher, I couldn't get her to boot..

If I did get her to boot, she was stable maybe for a few mins. and then she would crash. If I would press the NB voltage and then start pressing the FSB. I would start to get stable clocks. But then several months back, I decided I was going to up-grade the Bios from version: F2 to F3 using the
@BIOS app that comes with it. I used it before on my 770 and everything went well. But not this time???

I couldn't use the Multiplier, my Vcore voltage and a few others were showing different increment settings all together...






















All other crazy stuff started to happen and show it self... So I tried to flash it back and it wouldn't flash from my back-up file.. I thought I was
*$*%@#.... But then I read some were that If I could flash it back to the Original build BIOS. It might just help... Well the web site had a link to a
BIOS file: mb_bios_ga-990fxa-ud3_v.4.x_f2_... Well I gave it a go!!!!

Well sure as day light, it worked. Not only did it work and everything went back to the way it was, but NOW I was able to OC the proc. with just the multiplier too 4.0 gigs on the proc's stock-voltage.

As you can see in the pic, I pumped her to 4.2 gigs with not changing the NB volts and leaving them stock and just pressing the Vcore a bit. I could put her on 4.3 at 21.5 with the same voltage... But then she stress's harder and jumps a little in load temps. So I keep her here.... This is now my wife's computer using this proc and MB...

Either way brother, I hope I gave an idea or two... Plus, by the way. If you go to GIGABYTE's web site. The BIOS file they have off there site is corrupt. It won't flash either!!! You must find an out-side link... Just google the point of the problem and the first page of links that Google puts up, I remember the link to the site, I'm talking about; is in the first 20 suggestions google puts up...

Sorry brother, that's all I have for you!!! GOOD LUCK!


----------



## aaronsta1

i figured id give the F3 bios a try for my 990FXA-UD3 Rev4 board.. and wow that bios is so unstable..

my pc has been running a few years, with a 8350 @ 4.6ghz.. 200 x 23 @ 1.3 + .13125 (shows 1.404 in the health menu) w/ medium LLC and turbo OFF on the F2 bios

but with the F3 bios, it wouldn't even post if i put the LLC on anything but normal, and i couldn't get it to 4.6.. at 4.5 it wouldn't restart without clearing the bios and setting all the settings over again altho it ran prime95 an hour or so with no errors.. 4.4 seemed stable, but it used the same voltage settings as 4.6 with the f2 bios.. i had to set it to 1.3 + .1500 to get the droop stable.

so anyway.. if anyone is having a lot of issues with this board, try the F2 bios.. it has been really stable for me.


----------



## Timbo-42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rogue1266*
> 
> It's an Ultra Durable / GA-990FXA-UD3 / 'REV': 4.0............ I, my self had a problem when I first bought this board; my be a little over a year and a few months ago. I wanted a new board for our chip 'WE' have, so I can OC it a little just to see what it would do in these board. But every time I would
> jack-up the multiplier to 19.5 or higher, I couldn't get her to boot..
> 
> If I did get her to boot, she was stable maybe for a few mins. and then she would crash. If I would press the NB voltage and then start pressing the FSB. I would start to get stable clocks. But then several months back, I decided I was going to up-grade the Bios from version: F2 to F3 using the
> @BIOS app that comes with it. I used it before on my 770 and everything went well. But not this time???
> 
> I couldn't use the Multiplier, my Vcore voltage and a few others were showing different increment settings all together...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All other crazy stuff started to happen and show it self... So I tried to flash it back and it wouldn't flash from my back-up file.. I thought I was
> *$*%@#.... But then I read some were that If I could flash it back to the Original build BIOS. It might just help... Well the web site had a link to a
> BIOS file: mb_bios_ga-990fxa-ud3_v.4.x_f2_... Well I gave it a go!!!!
> 
> Well sure as day light, it worked. Not only did it work and everything went back to the way it was, but NOW I was able to OC the proc. with just the multiplier too 4.0 gigs on the proc's stock-voltage.
> 
> As you can see in the pic, I pumped her to 4.2 gigs with not changing the NB volts and leaving them stock and just pressing the Vcore a bit. I could put her on 4.3 at 21.5 with the same voltage... But then she stress's harder and jumps a little in load temps. So I keep her here.... This is now my wife's computer using this proc and MB...
> 
> Either way brother, I hope I gave an idea or two... Plus, by the way. If you go to GIGABYTE's web site. The BIOS file they have off there site is corrupt. It won't flash either!!! You must find an out-side link... Just google the point of the problem and the first page of links that Google puts up, I remember the link to the site, I'm talking about; is in the first 20 suggestions google puts up...
> 
> Sorry brother, that's all I have for you!!! GOOD LUCK!


I know right now I have the F1 bios. Is my board compatible with the F2 bios? It probably is, but my motherboard is a different revision then yours, so I just want to be sure.

https://postimg.org/image/of79hto3n/picture upload sites


----------



## Rogue1266

Quote:


> I know right now I have the F1 bios. Is my board compatible with the F2 bios? It probably is, but my motherboard is a different revision then yours, so I just want to be sure.


This is your board, right bud???

http://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-990FXA-UD3-Ultra-rev-10#support-dl

I would try re-flashing the same BIOS. See if it helps any!!! Just make sure you back-up the bios you have working it now!!!

Well, like I wrote; I should have flashed my bios a long time ago when I first bought this board. I wouldn't have gone through all the

headaches I went through & driving my self crazy trying to clock this thing!!!


----------



## Timbo-42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rogue1266*
> 
> This is your board, right bud???
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/GA-990FXA-UD3-Ultra-rev-10#support-dl
> 
> I would try re-flashing the same BIOS. See if it helps any!!! Just make sure you back-up the bios you have working it now!!!
> 
> Well, like I wrote; I should have flashed my bios a long time ago when I first bought this board. I wouldn't have gone through all the
> 
> headaches I went through & driving my self crazy trying to clock this thing!!!


Yep, that's it. Ok, I will try to re-flash, this is just something I have never done before, it kind of makes me nervous.


----------



## Rogue1266

Quote:


> Yep, that's it. Ok, I will try to re-flash, this is just something I have never done before, it kind of makes me nervous.


Don't be.. Just read through this a bit before you step into it!!! This is kind old but it's the idea you need!!!
http://www.gigabyte.com/webpage/20/HowToReflashBIOS.html

If you have the file. Install the file in a folder and install it on a Flash drive ( mem.stick) 2 gig - 10 gig; doesn't matter. It's a small file. Or just copy the file right on to the drive.

Go into Q-flash in the bios on restart, go to the Q-flash tab, click on it and it will nav. to the drive you have plugged in... Pick the BIOS file; it should look
something like this ( 9FXAUD34.F2 ) <<(this was mine)..... It's an F2 file and the size should be about ' 4,096 KB '. Choose the file and click Up-Date.
And leave your computer alone and let it do it's thing... If she re-boots. Leave her alone and let her boot all the way to your desk top on default settings!!!
Fumble around with her and see if she's OK!!!

Just to show you what changing my bios did or should I say Re-installing the same one's did for my board. I just restarted my comp. and
bumped her up 4.4 with a breeze. Were, at the beginning when I first bought this board, she didn't do it this easy. She use to struggle to stay at
this speed!!!!


----------



## mrgnex

I found a second hand MSI 990FXA Gaming with a leaking heatpipe. It seems to have leaked in the bend from the VRM to the NB heatsink. Is this salvageable?


----------



## Timbo-42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rogue1266*
> 
> Don't be.. Just read through this a bit before you step into it!!! This is kind old but it's the idea you need!!!
> http://www.gigabyte.com/webpage/20/HowToReflashBIOS.html
> 
> If you have the file. Install the file in a folder and install it on a Flash drive ( mem.stick) 2 gig - 10 gig; doesn't matter. It's a small file. Or just copy the file right on to the drive.
> 
> Go into Q-flash in the bios on restart, go to the Q-flash tab, click on it and it will nav. to the drive you have plugged in... Pick the BIOS file; it should look
> something like this ( 9FXAUD34.F2 ) <<(this was mine)..... It's an F2 file and the size should be about ' 4,096 KB '. Choose the file and click Up-Date.
> And leave your computer alone and let it do it's thing... If she re-boots. Leave her alone and let her boot all the way to your desk top on default settings!!!
> Fumble around with her and see if she's OK!!!
> 
> Just to show you what changing my bios did or should I say Re-installing the same one's did for my board. I just restarted my comp. and
> bumped her up 4.4 with a breeze. Were, at the beginning when I first bought this board, she didn't do it this easy. She use to struggle to stay at
> this speed!!!!


Alright, I just re-flashed the bios, to no avail. Same issues. I think i'm just gonna return this mobo to newegg, before the 30 days is up. It sucks because it really does seem like a nice motherboard, but I don't want to chance that the motherboard itself isn't defective. It would suck if I bought an fx chip, and it still won't overclock.


----------



## Rogue1266

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> I found a second hand MSI 990FXA Gaming with a leaking heatpipe. It seems to have leaked in the bend from the VRM to the NB heatsink. Is this salvageable?


I don't know about that bud... If you have any rust that formed around any of those tabs, around any of the components of the board ,
I would think, LOL hahaha; you'd have a potential electrical short... But hey bud. You might get lucky... Just make sure you use all crap
components; PSU, CPU, cables, ect.... Because if you start up dude...... ""BOOOOM""... Naa I'm just kidding. No, but for real, I think it's a chance
in a half to light up that MB.... Good Luck either way!!!







. Just be careful!!!!


----------



## Rogue1266

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timbo-42*
> 
> Alright, I just re-flashed the bios, to no avail. Same issues. I think i'm just gonna return this mobo to newegg, before the 30 days is up. It sucks because it really does seem like a nice motherboard, but I don't want to chance that the motherboard itself isn't defective. It would suck if I bought an fx chip, and it still won't overclock.


To bad... that's a bummer!!! Well, I hope it all works out for you... She is a nice MB... Like I said. Since I re-installed.. This thing rocks, But it's my wife's now... I just get on it every now and then to mess around with her!!!








Good Luck brother!!! All the best!!


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rogue1266*
> 
> I don't know about that bud... If you have any rust that formed around any of those tabs, around any of the components of the board ,
> I would think, LOL hahaha; you'd have a potential electrical short... But hey bud. You might get lucky... Just make sure you use all crap
> components; PSU, CPU, cables, ect.... Because if you start up dude...... ""BOOOOM""... Naa I'm just kidding. No, but for real, I think it's a chance
> in a half to light up that MB.... Good Luck either way!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Just be careful!!!!


I haven't bought it yet. But seeing that it is as good as defective I might try lowballing and fixing it. I haven't figured out yet how to make the cooling decent..


----------



## Mega Man

Afaik The pipe is usually sealed with some form of refrigerant inside there is nothing wrong it just won't transfer heat as well


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Afaik The pipe is usually sealed with some form of refrigerant inside there is nothing wrong it just won't transfer heat as well


So just some higher temps for the VRM, NB and SB?


----------



## Mega Man

Probably more the nb and Sb but only if they are connected ( don't remember this board sorry ) as in my experience the vrm get the most airflow, but I could be wrong


----------



## mrgnex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Probably more the nb and Sb but only if they are connected ( don't remember this board sorry ) as in my experience the vrm get the most airflow, but I could be wrong


Yeah they are connected. Maybe I can find a way to fix it. Thanks!

Come to think of it. Might find a way to remove the heatpipe, buy another one, bent it and reinstall that one.. Hmm...


----------



## bigdayve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrgnex*
> 
> Yeah they are connected. Maybe I can find a way to fix it. Thanks!
> 
> Come to think of it. Might find a way to remove the heatpipe, buy another one, bent it and reinstall that one.. Hmm...


You could always replace all the heatsinks, but that would probably defeat the purpose of buying a cheap board. There are some nice inexpensive aluminum heatsinks on Ebay though.


----------



## Mega Man

decent hardware can not fix boor components/poor design/poor software ( not saying that mobo is any / or one of the above. but i am saying it is at least 1 )


----------



## user633

I'v got a GA-990FXA-UD3 (rev. 1.0) running a AMD Phenom II X6 1100T Processor with the F10e bios and I want to use a TPM chip.. I'v been researching for too many hours already and I can't seam to find a TPM device that will work with my motherboard.
I bought the GC TPM rev 2.0. It says clearly that this chip only works with the fm2 apus. So I'm screwd.

But strangely, all the pin outs from the TPM header matches up with the GC TPM chip. Pin 1, LCLK Pin 2, GND Pin 3, LFRAME Pin 4, No pin.. and so on. Compared it via the chart in the manual for my motherboard. So it "should" work..
Nothing new shows up in the bios, the rev 1.0 don't have UEFI. I tried to reflash it, have the battery removed for some time to clear the coms but still nothing happend. I enterd the hidden menu in the bios via alt+f1 but all it shows are GPP core CFG and SB spread spectrum. I haven't been able to find any info on what sb spread spectrum means, so if anyone could enlighten me about it i'd be glad.

The LPC host controller (the tpm header) shows up in my hardware list.. So the OS finds it, but not the tpm chip that's connected to it.

Tpm is always activated in the bios first, to be able to use it. So maybe I need a bios mod of some kind, or a new chip..

if anyone knows a tpm chip that works with my system or if you have some suggestions on how to proceed I'll be happy to know









Regards


----------



## onurbulbul

Could please someone tell me how to delete saved profiles?


----------



## johnniedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnniedoo*
> 
> Thanks,
> been doing that 'research' by reading forums till my eyes burnt. I appreciate the feedback about the current Gig boards. I found that they call the 'new' board 990X while the other 2 still use the 970 identification yet all allow for crossfire,sli by offering the 2pcie slots i guess. At least that is how i figured it.
> I will be taking your advice i am sure with the Asus. I have great experience with them, though a few yrs back. I went to gigabyte because i no longer used or needed all the software Asus had and saved a few bucks. gigabyte software was never any good and i dont think i ever used any of it and the construction of the boards seemed high quality, till this 990. I am using my 890fxa ud5 and love it. I have to 2 lan ports that seem to make my cable internet connection go even faster with the docsis3. I may be imagining it though. i never would have gotten the 990fxa if the am3+ cpu fit and worked properly. as far as the bios updates, gigabyte hasnt updated the bios in years and years. i forgot how lacking they are in this area.
> john


I guess i clicked the wrong thing and am quoting myself, no matter. same thing. I finally saved up and got the 970 gaming we discussed put it in, back together and the new motherboard also clips out breakers or something-whatever , lights up and shuts down. so, even though i smelled the melt down and saw the glowing from the vrm area (nothing suspicious on inspection after removal of the UD3) . the front fan lights up on my HAF922 is what i mean by lights up, and htat is for a second only. i had a minimal set up inside it ,just ssd, old gigabyte 4670hd gpu and ram with the cpu to try the test since i didnt see that bad capacitor area that would have confirmed the melt down.
I have to check the psu now. it was a toss up, could have been both but no way for a novice with a limited amount of spare parts to do. I did a multi meter test on the power on case switch to check ohms and resistance as it is easy enough to do and it shows the push button does work in that resistance test. off/on.I had pretty good ThermalTake Tough Power 750 from when they were getting good reviews so it is out and i put a Raidmaxx ss550 i have not been able to fit in 2 other builds for a few reasons. odd modular jacks too. anyway it is hanging around in the box new unused other than install it ,find it had some issue or another and am trying to locate the semi modular cables while i make sure it is a bad psu so i can toss the TT xl 750 and buy a proper one.
thanks to bigdayve for past help and i didnt disappear, or be rude , it just took time to get another board and get it in, etc as my 890fxa ud5 keeps me going ,pinch hitting.
thanks again,
john


----------



## OzzyRuleZ

Well since I built a Ryzen system I passed my FX 8350 and 990FX UD3 rev 3 off to a friend of mines kid. It was a good run with the UD3, even though I had to fix Gigabytes awful VRM cooling and flatten the board. It was relatively trouble free after that. They boy reports that it is running great and much faster than what he had, a Phenom II 955 that was also mine lol.


----------



## bigdayve

Thanks for the shoutout amd glad your pinch hitter is still working.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnniedoo*
> 
> I guess i clicked the wrong thing and am quoting myself, no matter. same thing. I finally saved up and got the 970 gaming we discussed put it in, back together and the new motherboard also clips out breakers or something-whatever , lights up and shuts down. so, even though i smelled the melt down and saw the glowing from the vrm area (nothing suspicious on inspection after removal of the UD3) . the front fan lights up on my HAF922 is what i mean by lights up, and htat is for a second only. i had a minimal set up inside it ,just ssd, old gigabyte 4670hd gpu and ram with the cpu to try the test since i didnt see that bad capacitor area that would have confirmed the melt down.
> I have to check the psu now. it was a toss up, could have been both but no way for a novice with a limited amount of spare parts to do. I did a multi meter test on the power on case switch to check ohms and resistance as it is easy enough to do and it shows the push button does work in that resistance test. off/on.I had pretty good ThermalTake Tough Power 750 from when they were getting good reviews so it is out and i put a Raidmaxx ss550 i have not been able to fit in 2 other builds for a few reasons. odd modular jacks too. anyway it is hanging around in the box new unused other than install it ,find it had some issue or another and am trying to locate the semi modular cables while i make sure it is a bad psu so i can toss the TT xl 750 and buy a proper one.
> thanks to bigdayve for past help and i didnt disappear, or be rude , it just took time to get another board and get it in, etc as my 890fxa ud5 keeps me going ,pinch hitting.
> thanks again,
> john


----------



## johnniedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigdayve*
> 
> Thanks for the shoutout amd glad your pinch hitter is still working.


i may still be a 'legitimate' 990FXA member..I found the replacement psu allowed for an ok boot-but on a new mobo. I did not discard my fxa ud3 and will have to check it out somehow in case it was not a victim in the power supply failure. it smelled of the acrid unforgettable electric wire/switch meltdown odor all tinkerers and dyi folks know well. and in the area of the vrms but i did not see any of the , also, well known look of short circuits ,capacitor melts and that. nothing, no scorch no off smell either, when the board was out that is.
i dont have a spare case or i would test it immediately. I did get great service with that board over 3-4yr whatever and overclocked to good numbers with my 8120 and only had the 8350 in a week or less when the 'accident' occurred. it is working in the new board but only just tested the psu for start up-ability , nothing happening with it yet.
I have a bit to go integrating all the new parts into the final working system since i just got past the first troubleshooting hurdle.
As an 'old age' pensioner with a limited cash-flow, I am not as able to toss money around as I used to , or because I used to, anymore, takes time to get these things done
I have to stretch the legs of this 970 gaming as long as i got it and it is in the box, then try the multi meter tests on the 990fxa that i found on the web if i can figure out how work the thing and get the probes into the right spots while looking at the lcd screen. that will be good for another laugh or 2
I have followed this and this and the bulldozer, piledriver vischera fx83xx club threads since they began, or shortly after as soon as i got my first 8120/ 990fxa ud3 rev1.2. got lots of great information and am glad this is forum is still going strong.
I like to read about the ryzen stuff as well, figure after 4plus years with one chip and one board basically, it's logical people would be enthusiastically waiting for the next long overdue release and plenty of anxiety among most of the rest as to whether amd will provide joy or (another?)let down this time. I ,too have been waiting for am4 which is why i only went for the 970 (sub $100) . I want to wait to see how it shapes up with ryzen, am4 when the dust settles .
thanks
john


----------



## aherrij

I'm running an 8350 in a GA990FXA-UD3 Rev 4.0 Bios F3. I changed the Vcore to 'Normal' instead of 'Auto' and adjusted the voltage using VID about -0.05. BIOS was showing Vcore at 1.44v.

I booted to Windows, ran some prime95. Got one error after about 20 minutes, so I'm thinking I'm in the ballpark for stable stock voltage.

Oddly, HWmonitor is showing 1.26v-1.28v under load.
Hwinfo is stuck showing 1.337v with some slight droops under load only visible in the graph.

I booted back to BIOS, and now the Vcore is at 1.3375? The VID adjustment is the same as I set it at -0.05, so I was way undervolted.

Any ideas on why the voltage changed in bios so significantly?

Really dissappointed in this board so after good experiences with a MA790X-UD4P/1055T (which I just posted on Ebay). The 1055T ran 1.28v at 3.43ghz totally Prime95 stable on the MA790X. I tried the 1055T on this board, and could not get stable at 3.2Ghz same indicated voltage. Settled for 3.1Ghz. The board also had trouble recognizing the proper ram voltage of 1.35v with the 1055T, but seems to set the proper voltage with 8350 now installed.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT temps are 29-31C idle with Cool N Quiet enabled down to 0.85v Using an Artic Freezer Pro 64. Prime95 temps are 58-60C. This seems high. Should I reapply the thermal paste or is this possibly related to the wonky voltage?


----------



## mus1mus

What LLC setting do you use?


----------



## Mega Man

Like every time, bios screens please.

Hwmonitor is notoriously wrong fyi


----------



## aherrij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Like every time, bios screens please.
> 
> Hwmonitor is notoriously wrong fyi


I understand. That's why I was also using HWinfo. Even HWinfo didn't match BIOS. I'll try and get some screens in the next couple days if I can reproduce it.

LLC is on Medium.


----------



## aherrij

For starters, I think I have a clear case of throttling. _EDIT this is likely some sort of BIOS bug or power saving measure, not thermal throttling_This picture is after 30mins of Prime 95. 200mhz FSB 21x multiplier at 1.3375v no DVID adjustment. The motherboard voltage varies from 1.224 to 1.320V while fully loaded, but I think the voltage variation is likely due to throttling as the multiplier drops roughly coincide with the voltage droop. I'm right at an indicated 60C._EDIT That's the NB temp not the CPU temp_ My case has quite a bit of airflow and I'm running an Arctic Cooler 64.

When CPU VCORE is set to Auto, the voltage applied is 1.4125v. When VCORE is set to Normal then the voltage moves to 1.3375v. If you have a VID adjustment applied when you change CPU VCORE from Auto to Normal, you'll be applying DVID to 1.3375v after restarting. EDIT _After doing some reading, when turbo core is enabled, the voltage is much higher. Once turbo core is disabled, baseline voltage drops._


----------



## hurricane28

Did you noticed that your ram is running at a very low voltage? Normally DDR3 is around 1.5,1.65 v.

I can see no reason you should experience thermal throttling because i have ran my system at higher temps without throttling, i think its your ram voltage.

Disable all the power throttling features like, Cool n Quiet, SVM, C1E, Core C6 state, HPC mode etc. Put CPU PLL voltage to 2.695v as it helps oc on Gigabyte for some reason. Change CPU vcore to auto and don't use dynamic vcore as its not really helpful.

We also like some more information about the rest of your system in order to help you.


----------



## aherrij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Did you noticed that your ram is running at a very low voltage? Normally DDR3 is around 1.5,1.65 v.
> 
> I can see no reason you should experience thermal throttling because i have ran my system at higher temps without throttling, i think its your ram voltage.


RAM is Crucial Ballistix 1600mhz DDR3 designed to run at 1.35v. 9-9-9-24 timings. Read some articles that indicated low voltage RAM helps stability and lowers heat when overclocking. Makes sense if the ram voltage is coming from the CPU itself.

Would low voltage on the RAM cause the CPU multiplier and voltage to drop simultaneously?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Disable all the power throttling features like, Cool n Quiet, SVM, C1E, Core C6 state, HPC mode etc. Put CPU PLL voltage to 2.695v as it helps oc on Gigabyte for some reason. Change CPU vcore to auto and don't use dynamic vcore as its not really helpful.


I'll start back at 'Auto' Vcore and see where I land for voltage. Currently one hour Prime95 stable @ CPU VCORE 1.3375v CPU Multiplier 4.2ghz.

It's my understanding that to run Cool N Quiet, you must use VID 'Auto' or 'Normal'. I've never turned off CNQ in any previous AMD overclocking endeavor, and I'd like to keep it on for this build as well. I'm not aiming for an extreme OC like 5.0ghz on air, maybe 4.4-4.6ghz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> We also like some more information about the rest of your system in order to help you.


Thanks for the help so far!

Crucial Ballistix 1600mhz DDR 1.35v BLS8G3D1609ES2LX0
AMD Fx-8350
Article Cooling Freezer Pro 64
AMD RX480
Kingston V300 SSD


----------



## aherrij

My post disappeared into moderation limbo after I tried to edit to say 'Thanks for help so far!'

While I wait for post to be approved, currently graphing VCORE under different LLC settings to see if it minimizes voltage droop. So far it looks like Medium Load Line Calibration keeps a slightly tighter voltage window with temps 1-2C higher.


----------



## aherrij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Did you noticed that your ram is running at a very low voltage? Normally DDR3 is around 1.5,1.65 v.
> 
> I can see no reason you should experience thermal throttling because i have ran my system at higher temps without throttling, i think its your ram voltage.


I did notice my ram was running at 1.35v, as designed. Crucial Ballistix DDR3 1600 MHz PC3-12800 1.35V BLS8G3D1609ES2LX0 is my RAM. I did some reading that low voltage RAM possibly allowed a little more flexibility on overclocking (and use up to 10 watts less) and the slightly slower rated speeds have little impact on performance anyway, so I went for the low voltage RAM.

That being said, I agree with you, I don't believe thermal throttling is the issue, though these boards get REALLY hot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> Disable all the power throttling features like, Cool n Quiet, SVM, C1E, Core C6 state, HPC mode etc. Put CPU PLL voltage to 2.695v as it helps oc on Gigabyte for some reason. Change CPU vcore to auto and don't use dynamic vcore as its not really helpful.


I was hoping to leave Cool n Quiet enabled, as I've done so on all of my previous AMD overclocks with no issues. To keep CNQ, you have to leave VCORE on auto or normal. If I leave VCORE and DVID on auto how do I adjust voltage?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hurricane28*
> 
> We also like some more information about the rest of your system in order to help you.


Gigabyte GA-990FXA Rev 4.0 BIOS F3
FX-8350 w/ Arctic Freezer Pro 64 Cooler
AMD RX480
Crucial Ballistix DDR3 1600 MHz PC3-12800 1.35V BLS8G3D1609ES2LX0 16GB 2x8GB
Antec 500W Bronze 80+ PSU


----------



## aherrij

Incoming Load Line Calibration LLC Test Data:













Notes:

Extreme LLC added a significant amount of voltage and heat and also experienced the highest voltage variance.

Standard LLC appears to have the least voltage variance, lowest average volts and lowest heat output. The VCORE graph is the flattest too. <----Probably sticking with standard LLC for this reason.

I should note that I've tested all LLC settings for at least one hour of Prime95 with no errors. Not considering this stable; merely testing at 4.2ghz.


----------



## aherrij

Did some system power consumption testing on the FX-8350:

Idle 102W
100% CPU Load Standard LLC (1.32v) 281W
100% CPU Load Extreme LLC (1.42v) 350W

70W difference without any actual VCORE voltage adjustments is wild. 179W added from idle to 100% load? I thought these were 125W TDP design?


----------



## MishelLngelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aherrij*
> 
> Did some system power consumption testing on the FX-8350:
> 
> Idle 102W
> 100% CPU Load Standard LLC (1.32v) 281W
> 100% CPU Load Extreme LLC (1.42v) 350W
> 
> 70W difference without any actual VCORE voltage adjustments is wild. 179W added from idle to 100% load? I thought these were 125W TDP design?


TDP is not same as actual electrical energy used. TDP (Thermal Power Design) is only a measure of heat power produced, practically wasted energy while loads in Watts shown by programs are calculated values of Volts * Amps drawn by processor. There's no actual Watt sensor, just for Voltage and current drawn.
W=A*V


----------



## aherrij

I measured lower
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MishelLngelo*
> 
> TDP is not same as actual electrical energy used. TDP (Thermal Power Design) is only a measure of heat power produced, practically wasted energy while loads in Watts shown by programs are calculated values of Volts * Amps drawn by processor. There's no actual Watt sensor, just for Voltage and current drawn.
> W=A*V


I measured watts at the socket.

Thanks for the clarification on TDP. Thought it was a measure of power used, not heat dissipated.


----------



## MishelLngelo

Yes, FX can draw some tremendous power when pushed, even with my 6350 at 1.52v and 4.8GHz I read over 280W calculated power and had to force cool VRM LLC didn't help much on that MB and at over 1.525v was dropping voltage. As I had CM Nepton 140XL on it, CPU temperature was OK but VRM was sizzling.


----------



## aherrij

Who is running F4a BIOS?

Anyone running this custom BIOS based off F4a?

https://forum.giga-byte.co.uk/index.php?topic=16870.0


----------



## aherrij

Only changed multiplier up to 21.5 from 21. Still using 1.3375v VCORE and Standard LLC. The frequency of multiplier reductions and the voltage variance has gone way up. Furthermore, the average vcore has dropped.


----------



## aherrij

I'm feeling that this the 8350 on this motherboard is a tricky beast to overclock. Beyond 1.3375v VCORE @ 4.2ghz, I can't find stability in OCCT for more than 15 minutes, even with the CPU multiplier at 21.5 for 4.3ghz/1.38v VCORE. Is this normal?

I'm thinking of bumping LLC higher for higher voltage under load and leaving the VCORE a touch lower. Has anyone used this approach?


----------



## xXUNLUCKYXx

Ive just updated to the latest BIOS which seems better than the previous versions but I struggle to get a stable NB overclock, Multiplier overclock i can run up to 4.8 but the temps are all over the place as the voltage needs to be about 1.45 volts, @ 1.38 i can run 4.6 completely stable with great temps but id love to get 4.6 with NB overclocking for better single core performance.

Any tips?


----------



## professorjonny

Has any one got a ssd successfully working on a ud3 rev 3 on ports 0-3 in ahci mode with a traditional hdd fitted in another port?

I have tried numerous brands of ssd's drivers cables etc and I can get the ssd to work on channels 4 and 5 unless it is by its self.

some brand sata drives will allow you to install windows then reboot with inaccessible boot device while most get I/o errors .

on another note I contacted gigabyte and they gave me a updated bios not on the website available for download with @bios or from
their web site.

the version is FDn I don't know what mods it as it did not come with a changelog but it seems to be more stable but still does not fix the ssd compatibility issue I have.

I have updated it and patched in new pci and option roms if someone wants a download link.

I don't know if I'm allowed to post on here.


----------



## Ansel

Checking Graphics Card Compatibility

I've searched the site and the thread but it is difficult to get the search system to make a specific enough search, so let me say "sorry if this has been posted before".

I have a UD3. I'm looking to get a new graphics card for a 4K monitor and I'm wondering about PCI slot compatibility.

I'm looking at an EVGA GTX-1050 https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487295 or Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti D5 4GB(GV-N105TD5-4GD) http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=43_1200_557_559&item_id=101890

I would like to know are the card edge pins compatible with the UD3 PCI slots and which one would I have to use.

I realize the MB only handles PCI 2.0 standard which means running a PCI 3 gfx card in PCI 2 mode.

Any other issues? Or is it really at the point where a new monitor requires an new graphics card which in turn requires a new motherboard?

Thanks for any assistance.


----------



## taowulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ansel*
> 
> Checking Graphics Card Compatibility
> 
> I've searched the site and the thread but it is difficult to get the search system to make a specific enough search, so let me say "sorry if this has been posted before".
> 
> I have a UD3. I'm looking to get a new graphics card for a 4K monitor and I'm wondering about PCI slot compatibility.
> 
> I'm looking at an EVGA GTX-1050 https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487295 or Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti D5 4GB(GV-N105TD5-4GD) http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=43_1200_557_559&item_id=101890
> 
> I would like to know are the card edge pins compatible with the UD3 PCI slots and which one would I have to use.
> 
> I realize the MB only handles PCI 2.0 standard which means running a PCI 3 gfx card in PCI 2 mode.
> 
> Any other issues? Or is it really at the point where a new monitor requires an new graphics card which in turn requires a new motherboard?
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.


Considering I have a 1070 in mine, I think you will be good.


----------



## professorjonny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ansel*
> 
> Checking Graphics Card Compatibility
> 
> I have a UD3. I'm looking to get a new graphics card for a 4K monitor and I'm wondering about PCI slot compatibility.


a 1050 card will do 4k but it will not run 4k games it maxes out at 720-1080p

all pci-e cards are backwards compatible and will work in any slot of suitable width regardless of version.

I have a real old asus striker extreme (socket 775) and it has two gtx 960 in sli mode and they are only a pcie gen 1 slot and works perfectly and it is way older than the ud3.

I have asus strix 1050ti in my ud3 and it works no problem.


----------



## Ansel

Thanks taowulf and professorjonny. Reassuring that it will work. I'll be using it for photo editing and programming, not gaming, so I should be okay.


----------



## jclafi

I have UD5 and GTX1060 6Gb It Works great !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ansel*
> 
> Checking Graphics Card Compatibility
> 
> I've searched the site and the thread but it is difficult to get the search system to make a specific enough search, so let me say "sorry if this has been posted before".
> 
> I have a UD3. I'm looking to get a new graphics card for a 4K monitor and I'm wondering about PCI slot compatibility.
> 
> I'm looking at an EVGA GTX-1050 https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814487295 or Gigabyte GTX 1050 Ti D5 4GB(GV-N105TD5-4GD) http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=43_1200_557_559&item_id=101890
> 
> I would like to know are the card edge pins compatible with the UD3 PCI slots and which one would I have to use.
> 
> I realize the MB only handles PCI 2.0 standard which means running a PCI 3 gfx card in PCI 2 mode.
> 
> Any other issues? Or is it really at the point where a new monitor requires an new graphics card which in turn requires a new motherboard?
> 
> Thanks for any assistance.


----------



## specialedge

Welcome all! I just discovered how hot the Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 vrms get!


Neither my asus sabertooth 990fx v 3 nor crosshair 5 formula Z have any problem surpassing 4.7ghz on {fx8300|fx8320|fx8320e} but MAN this board! 4.5ghz and my VRMs are ROASTING beyond 81c! Im pretty surprised. 

This board was purchased open box, single use from reddit.com/r/hardwareswap and it looks to be in tip-top shape. the only concern is that the thermal tape seems to have released some sort of oil as it has cured, which is gross, but I dont know whether it will effect performance. I hope to find out soon, with the help of your discussion backlogs! 



Thanks in advance!


----------



## xXUNLUCKYXx

I would recommend installing a fan over the VRM's on that board to help with the high temperatures to avoid thermal throttling, keep your overclock at around 4.6ghz at the highest.


----------



## SavantStrike

specialedge said:


> Welcome all! I just discovered how hot the Gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 vrms get!
> 
> 
> Neither my asus sabertooth 990fx v 3 nor crosshair 5 formula Z have any problem surpassing 4.7ghz on {fx8300|fx8320|fx8320e} but MAN this board! 4.5ghz and my VRMs are ROASTING beyond 81c! Im pretty surprised.
> 
> This board was purchased open box, single use from reddit.com/r/hardwareswap and it looks to be in tip-top shape. the only concern is that the thermal tape seems to have released some sort of oil as it has cured, which is gross, but I dont know whether it will effect performance. I hope to find out soon, with the help of your discussion backlogs!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


The oil is silicone - it's harmless other than the gross staining. You might want to swap the pads for new ones to prevent further seeping.


----------



## jclafi

*VRM*

I have a friend w/ UD3 board and same CPU as mine, FX-8350.

His temps are way higher... Socket, CPU, VRM, everything...

My UD5 w/ active cooling in the NB/VRM heatpipe sits around 32ºc in iddle, and 40ºc load. I have one digital sensor in the VRM.

Overclocked to 4.8 VRM temps goes to 50ºc. The UD3 board is entry level, dont expect miracles with it.



Good Luck !


----------



## specialedge

Thanks everyone for the responses. I think I'm just going to tone it down a bit. I don't have a case which will be worth the effort to cut the sidepanel to cool the backside of the board. I have a little noctua 40mm fan which I previously thought was helping out, but now I've lost faith lol. What a small little fan what can it really do?

Jclafi, would you mind sharing your active cooling solution? Pretty much hog-tied a 120mm fan on top of your vrm heatsink like I have seen before?

Also, does anyone have experience with using low-profile coolers with this board, like the Noctua c14s (https://noctua.at/en/nh-c14s)? I have it setup with dual redux model fans pushing downward towards onto the board, but along with gigabyte's bios CPU fan pwm control, it doesnt seems to perform how I had imagined. I have it at the 2.50pwm/1c setting, which I don't really understand how it works but it is the highest setting. 

NOW, does anyone have any experience using a cooler like this with fans turned around, where it would be pulling air away from the board and pushing it toward the case panel? Would the do any better to cool the vrms than air pushing onto them? Maybe this is becoming a question for another subforum......

Thanks again in advance!


----------



## jclafi

*VRM Cooling*

Hi there !

Any 40x40mm or 80x80mm fan can to the job regarding the VRM/N.B cooling. In my case i have little space (mid tower case and push pull 212x) so i instaled one old socket 775 VRM FAN on the N.B Heatpipe. Since the VRM and N.B are connected w/ one heatpipe, i cool both with this solution. The cooler is attached to this post.

Good Luck !



specialedge said:


> Thanks everyone for the responses. I think I'm just going to tone it down a bit. I don't have a case which will be worth the effort to cut the sidepanel to cool the backside of the board. I have a little noctua 40mm fan which I previously thought was helping out, but now I've lost faith lol. What a small little fan what can it really do?
> 
> Jclafi, would you mind sharing your active cooling solution? Pretty much hog-tied a 120mm fan on top of your vrm heatsink like I have seen before?
> 
> Also, does anyone have experience with using low-profile coolers with this board, like the Noctua c14s (https://noctua.at/en/nh-c14s)? I have it setup with dual redux model fans pushing downward towards onto the board, but along with gigabyte's bios CPU fan pwm control, it doesnt seems to perform how I had imagined. I have it at the 2.50pwm/1c setting, which I don't really understand how it works but it is the highest setting.
> 
> NOW, does anyone have any experience using a cooler like this with fans turned around, where it would be pulling air away from the board and pushing it toward the case panel? Would the do any better to cool the vrms than air pushing onto them? Maybe this is becoming a question for another subforum......
> 
> Thanks again in advance!


----------



## jclafi

*Got It !*

This is my current VRM FAN !

http://www.overclock.net/forum/10-a...20-asrock-extreme3-r2-0-a-2.html#post26501992


----------



## specialedge

Haha those fans are so awesome. I am seriously contemplating getting one


----------



## SilverDragon

Quick question, sorry if answer is somewhere in chain but I have tried searching for this. How would I go about finding the CPU-NB voltage on a GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev 3 board? BIOS BIOS version is FC and I absolutely am hating this BIOS the more I use it. There are two options - NB Core and NB Voltage with NB Core not showing a default value and only being modified by offsets. NB Voltage shows the default value and I currently have it set at that but I am paranoid and want to ensure that the Auto option for NB Core does not mess things up. Tempted to just set it to 0.000 but still cannot find anywhere in BIOS as to the actual voltage instead of an offset.

BTW I am trying to OC my 1090T after 6.5 years of running it at stock speeds for better overall system performance as well as potentially better single core performance. At least until I get the money to finally upgrade to Ryzen or wait it out for Ryzen+.


----------



## karakarga07

Actually, do not buy an AMD. 

https://www.cnet.com/news/amd-has-a-spectre-meltdown-like-security-flaw-of-its-own/

AMD has financial problems. They can not waste big money when developing and after support. At some discussions, some people believes that, AMD will bankrupt in 2020 if they go like that.

https://overclock3d.net/news/cpu_mainboard/amd_predicted_to_go_bankrupt_by_2020/1
https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/819524-amd-predicted-to-go-bankrupt-by-2020/

If that happens, don't wait for drivers by them after Windows 10, which means, your money will be wasted. Intel patched their buggy processor group as low as Sandy Bridge architecture.

https://newsroom.intel.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2018/03/microcode-update-guidance.pdf

AMD not yet, (probably never) patch 6 or 8 core FX serie %10. They will not patch newest ones, %50. That is because "there is no money for software expenses" so....

What ever you do for your current processor, by little tweaks, it doesn't mean much. There is only one better PCI express 3.0 mainboard by Asus named Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3 R2.0, but if you can ONLY find it second hand, an extra expense!

AMD looks like, a good/bad remembrance soon for computer users!


----------



## SilverDragon

You do realize that the bankruptcy prediction is from the year 2015?? Also the fact that these exploits require practically PHYSICAL access to the device in question? I mean if they have that kind of access your hosed REGARDLESS. Whats with this news?


----------



## karakarga07

Intel's new Arizona factory costed 7 Billion Dollars, previous one costed 5 Billion Dollars. The future one probably cost 10 Billion Dollars, + development and research = 10+ Billion.

AMD is loosing money. They are not making profit. Those are the last days of them, sometimes government intervenes, like Trump stopping 117 Million Dollars by Broadcom. If they wish, they may help after making research. If they wish, they may cut Intel into pieces violating anti-trust law.

But, it is really obvious that, AMD will not have the potential rescuing itself with the help of CPU and graphics card business. Maybe they can open a greengrocer?

There is a real fact, I am also used at the past 486's of AMD, 1090T, FX-8350 lately. But every time, those used, watching by Intel. So they never be the king!


Note: Did you downloaded latest chipset 990FX for example by AMD? You can, if you install the latest file, it will say, there is no integrated graphics in the CPU thus I will not continue! AMD is incapable of maintaining it's site, because of no money, no qualified personnel. Can you run a processor by them, if that is the situation?


----------



## hurricane28

karakarga07 said:


> Actually, do not buy an AMD.
> 
> https://www.cnet.com/news/amd-has-a-spectre-meltdown-like-security-flaw-of-its-own/
> 
> AMD has financial problems. They can not waste big money when developing and after support. At some discussions, some people believes that, AMD will bankrupt in 2020 if they go like that.
> 
> https://overclock3d.net/news/cpu_mainboard/amd_predicted_to_go_bankrupt_by_2020/1
> https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/819524-amd-predicted-to-go-bankrupt-by-2020/
> 
> If that happens, don't wait for drivers by them after Windows 10, which means, your money will be wasted. Intel patched their buggy processor group as low as Sandy Bridge architecture.
> 
> https://newsroom.intel.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2018/03/microcode-update-guidance.pdf
> 
> AMD not yet, (probably never) patch 6 or 8 core FX serie %10. They will not patch newest ones, %50. That is because "there is no money for software expenses" so....
> 
> What ever you do for your current processor, by little tweaks, it doesn't mean much. There is only one better PCI express 3.0 mainboard by Asus named Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3 R2.0, but if you can ONLY find it second hand, an extra expense!
> 
> AMD looks like, a good/bad remembrance soon for computer users!



Plz sell your AMD stuff and buy Intel and leave us from your propaganda... Nothing what you say can be proven with facts...


----------



## karakarga07

hurricane28

Please read the ones carefully that I wrote. Those are enough proof for me....

They don't sell for much, they are old. Keep in your mind that, you get angry, because you also know them, what they are!


----------



## tashcz

Welcome to the AMD part of the forum. We see you have joined in 2014 and posted only 7 posts so far. 

Please refrain from posting BULL**** out here since most of us here have been active in all sorts of AMD related conversations.

I think you're stuck in 2015 when that prediction was made. Don't forget we got Ryzen that kicks ass, and you can't find a AMD GPU since they're always sold out. Bancrupt soon? Don't think so.

Please leave. Or join us in real time, it's 2018. Heck even if it was 2015 i'd have nothing to complain about. FX still ballin.


----------



## tashcz

And just to make one simple fact that you're wrong, here you go:

https://finance.yahoo.com/quote/AMD/

Click on the 5-year button and look at what the stock was worth in 2015 and what it's worth now. Do you see a trend like that on a company soon to be broke?


----------



## jclafi

Bull**** !



karakarga07 said:


> Actually, do not buy an AMD.
> 
> https://www.cnet.com/news/amd-has-a-spectre-meltdown-like-security-flaw-of-its-own/
> 
> AMD has financial problems. They can not waste big money when developing and after support. At some discussions, some people believes that, AMD will bankrupt in 2020 if they go like that.
> 
> https://overclock3d.net/news/cpu_mainboard/amd_predicted_to_go_bankrupt_by_2020/1
> https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/819524-amd-predicted-to-go-bankrupt-by-2020/
> 
> If that happens, don't wait for drivers by them after Windows 10, which means, your money will be wasted. Intel patched their buggy processor group as low as Sandy Bridge architecture.
> 
> https://newsroom.intel.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/11/2018/03/microcode-update-guidance.pdf
> 
> AMD not yet, (probably never) patch 6 or 8 core FX serie %10. They will not patch newest ones, %50. That is because "there is no money for software expenses" so....
> 
> What ever you do for your current processor, by little tweaks, it doesn't mean much. There is only one better PCI express 3.0 mainboard by Asus named Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3 R2.0, but if you can ONLY find it second hand, an extra expense!
> 
> AMD looks like, a good/bad remembrance soon for computer users!


----------



## hurricane28

karakarga07 said:


> hurricane28
> 
> Please read the ones carefully that I wrote. Those are enough proof for me....
> 
> They don't sell for much, they are old. Keep in your mind that, you get angry, because you also know them, what they are!


Dude, you are an idiot if you believe this... But like i said before, sell your stuff and buy Intel and stop posting this utter nonsense..


----------



## whatwherewhy

*GA-990FXA-UD3 Low performance*

Hello Gents! I own GA-990FXA-UD3 v3.0 with Bios version= FC.
*Why do i get lower performance on this 990FXA than on GA-970A-D3 ??*

*System_1:*

*CPU*: AMD FX 6350
*Mainb*: GA-990FXA-UD3 v3.0 Bios version= FC
*RAM*: 32 GB DDR3 1600 Mhz CL9
*HDD*: 2TB Seagate 64MB 7200 RPM
*CPU cooler*: Thermaltake Contac 39 - 180W TDP
 
*System_2:*

*CPU*: AMD FX 6350
*Mainb*: GA-970A-D3 v1.1 Bios version= F12
*RAM*: 16 GB DDR3 1600 Mhz CL9
*HDD*: 2TB Seagate 64MB 7200 RPM
*CPU cooler*: Maelstrom 120T Liquid- 140W TDP

 I have tested them on different operating systems, Windows 7, Windows 10 Pro , Windows 10 Enterprise and even on Linux
The System_1, with 990FXA board, got less points. I tried Cinebench R15, Blender demos.
What should be the problem?
The 990FXA has the best cooling than the 970A, so temperature should not be the problem causing low performance.
In 970A-D3 Bios has Ganged/Unganged mode option, in 990FXA-UD3 Bios, this option is missing. There is only Channel Interleave/Rank Interleave option.
What am i doing wrong?
The RAM is identical HyperX Savage DDR3 CL9 1866 Mhz. I have reduced the frequency from 1866 Mhz to 1600 Mhz because of the cpu limitation, not being able to run 1866 Mhz when all 4 slots are full. When there is one RAM module per channel, it runs at 1866 Mhz.
Both mainboards were purchased as new, i am the first user/owner of these boards.
Do you have HPET enabled ? Does Windows 7/10 using HPET ?
And what is HPC mode? The manual says HPC = High Performance Compute, it disables the C1E C6 power down state. In bios the C6 option remains enabled, but when HPC on i guess the cpu overrides that ?
why would do that? why would you make another option to override another function ? when you can turn that function off so easy.
whats the real point of the HPC option ?


----------



## jclafi

do you have active cooling in the motherboard VRM?


----------



## bbowseroctacore

having some issues adding a third/fourth gpu in the pciex8 slots on the GA-990FXA-UD7 rev 3.0. so far have been unable to get windows to accept them and certainly cant use sli atm - is this a previously reported issue or is there something i am missing as the spec page says this board supports 4-way sli


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## whatwherewhy

@jclafi , first of all, thank you for the reply, i thought everybody is gone.
No, i dont have active cooling that blows air directly on the VRM. Last time when i checked the VRM Temps with a laser gun, i was reading 60C - 65C on the VRM cooler, on full load. I didnt mess with the voltages, its on auto on both mainboards.
You think that the low performance of the 990FXA is due to overheating VRM?
The VRM cooler had thermalpads from the factory, and i have removed the thermalpad, cleaned the area and the mosfets.
Instead of thermalpad , i have place very small dots of thermal Paste on each mosfet, then i have applied the VRM cooler.
For me its weird that 990FXA-UD3 has lower performance than 970A-D3, because the 970A-D3 doesnt even have a cooler on the VRM, and it also have the worst cpu cooler(liquid cooler).
I forgot to mention, that both system have the same PC Case Thermaltake V3
The Easytune6 doesnt show VRM Temps, neither other temp monitor application.
How can i read the VRM Temps without external devices/sensors?
Why are some BIOS features so confusing ? like HPC mode ? Why would you put a feature in the bios like HPC ?
ps: Why would they put thermalpad between the VRM mosfets and the VRM cooler? Didnt they know that VRMs gets hot?


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## whatwherewhy

@bbowseroctacore , Why would you want SLI if you want to mine crypto ? As i remember, when you are GPU mining, you should not connect the gpus in SLI.
What kind of SLI bridge do you use?
Gigabyte say this: Note: Please update the latest version of BIOS from GIGABYTE website and VGA driver from vender’s website.

I hope you have the latest BIOS, i dont have your mainboard and certainly i dont have 4 gpus. So i cannot confirm or test anything.


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## bbowseroctacore

no mining here - just want to bench some old gtx 580's on the gigabyte board to compare to the asus/msi/asrock 990fx boards i have. yes i have tried a number of bios updates including the beta to no avail - can just vaguely remember reading somewhere on oc.net that someone else had this issue when trying to populate the x8 slots


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## whatwherewhy

@bbowseroctacore , oh, i see. It is weird if you already tried with updated bios and up tp date nvidia geforce drivers.
How is it displays? i mean in Windows, does the system boots up? Does the Nvidia control pannel says NO SLI error ?


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## bbowseroctacore

it is an issue that is hard to explain - 2x 580's in the x16 slots works fine and i can enable sli. 
- 2x 580's in the x8 slots same as above
- add a third 580 and windows reports vga card in device manager and 2x 580's
- with above nividia control panel reports 3x 580's but only allows two to sli

i have tried various nvidia drivers as far back as 320 - i am using win 7 and i have the pcie supplement sata power connected
i have tried using sli ribbons and 2/3/4way sli bridges that work on other motherboards
the four 580's work fine in quad-sli on my asus crosshair v formula
latest motherboard drivers have been used with a fresh win 7 pro install
starting to wonder what i have missed


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## bbowseroctacore

whatwherewhy - in regards to the vrms on both ur motherboards - they are not the best even for a stock setup, both will need active cooling (fans cooling them) and a thermal pad is necessary to help transfer heat to the heatsink aswell as bridge any gaps created when the pcb warps under stress from the cpu cooler. i can also recommend oc be done from bios and not software - et6 has been buggy on every board i have seen so far. try removing 2 dimms of ram on the 990fx board to see if u can get dual channel. i havent had great luck with kingston ram and fx rigs - they just dont seem to like each other for some reason


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## whatwherewhy

Things are more clear now since you said the cards are working fine in quad-sli on other mainboards but not on the ga990fxa. It seems that the problem could be the gigabyte mainboard itself. The last thing you could try is to test it again on Win 7 Ultimate Sp1 + all the original mainboard drivers, or in Win 10 Pro or Enterprise. But this sounds time& energy spending. other ideas i dont have so far.

post edit: i saw your last post after i posted this one, see the next page.


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## whatwherewhy

my 990FXA-UD3 is warped already because of the heavy cpu cooler 800g i think, above the 600g mainboard limit. So you are right, my mainboard is bended(warped), i have seen photos from others on this thread. i didnt know the warp appears from the heat, i thought it appeared because of the HEAVY cpu cooler.
For me the thermalpads transfers the heat more bad than thermal paste. Thats why i have eliminated the factory thermalpad beneath the VRM cooler. Anyway you are right, the VRM requires active cooling in order to eliminate any overheating issue. I will attach a fan over the VRM cooler, or below in order to blow the heat up.
My HyperX Savage seems to work fine with my FX cpu It is running Dual Channel. i have tested all my ram for hours in Memtest and i got no errors, thats why i eliminated the ram issue. All the modules are identical DDR3-1866Mhz CL9, reduced to 1600Mhz because cpu memory controller limitation when all 4 modules/slots are used. When i will have time i will test with only 2 ram modules. The initial test were made with RAM ganged&unganged on 970A.
I dont use ETune6 anymore, last time i have used OpenHardware Monitor and IHW64.
Thank you very much for the tips. I thought everybody was gone from this thread, since now the ryzen is the new powerful stuff.


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## whatwherewhy

@jclafi , @bbowseroctacore , I have tested the 990fxa with 16GB and with 32GB and there is no improvement, there is a small difference in performance. I lose 3 to 7 points in performance when the system has 16GB. Which is weird because some people said when you have too much memory the cpu is losing time with all that memory(the memory controller is slower when all 4 slots are full)
Anyway, i lost several hours testing, i also wanted to see if the VRM cooler gets hot. It turned out that it didnt, i could keep my fingers on it, it was "warm", it didnt burn hot. I am talking about cpu full load, not idle. The system has 2cpu fans + 2 system fans running, so i guess it does matter to have air circulating all over the mainboard. I do not have a specific fan blowing over the VRM cooler, not yet. Remember that i dont have an FX 9000 cpu. I understand the FX cpus are power hungry but still, i have a 6350 not a 9590.
The point was:
970A-D3 without VRM cooler = faster
990fxa-UD3 with VRM cooler = a bit slower
No harm done, it just bugs me, it was suppose to be the other way arround. Anyway Merry Christmas everyone and happy new ryzen computing.


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## reaver83

Don't suppose anyone is looking to sell their board (working) fairly cheap after upgrading to Ryzen system? I got screwed by Newegg back in 2012, and Ordered a 990FXA UD3, and they sent me a 970A D3, which is absolutely horrible with only a 4+2 power phase! Didn't pay it any mind until the return policy ran out, and now I'm stuck with it! Now, finding at least a UD3 board is either 1) impossible in decent shape, or 2) more expensive than the launch price, on a 6 year old Motherboard, which is stupid! figured I'd try this forum before giving up, I'd be willing to send my board if you were looking to use yours for mining, my board should be OKAY for that, but only has 2 PCI-E x16 slots (one in X8 mode) Trying to stick with Gigabyte, cause their products have never failed me.


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## JennyBeans

reaver83 said:


> Don't suppose anyone is looking to sell their board (working) fairly cheap after upgrading to Ryzen system? I got screwed by Newegg back in 2012, and Ordered a 990FXA UD3, and they sent me a 970A D3, which is absolutely horrible with only a 4+2 power phase! Didn't pay it any mind until the return policy ran out, and now I'm stuck with it! Now, finding at least a UD3 board is either 1) impossible in decent shape, or 2) more expensive than the launch price, on a 6 year old Motherboard, which is stupid! figured I'd try this forum before giving up, I'd be willing to send my board if you were looking to use yours for mining, my board should be OKAY for that, but only has 2 PCI-E x16 slots (one in X8 mode) Trying to stick with Gigabyte, cause their products have never failed me.



I have a ud3 .. bit warped thanks to the heat but still runs


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## jclafi

Here where i live decent AM3+ motherboards are rare by now. When you find one or it´s used (and expensive), or is new and (very expensive). Got my UD5 ver 3.0 back in 2012, a good part.

Good Luck !



reaver83 said:


> Don't suppose anyone is looking to sell their board (working) fairly cheap after upgrading to Ryzen system? I got screwed by Newegg back in 2012, and Ordered a 990FXA UD3, and they sent me a 970A D3, which is absolutely horrible with only a 4+2 power phase! Didn't pay it any mind until the return policy ran out, and now I'm stuck with it! Now, finding at least a UD3 board is either 1) impossible in decent shape, or 2) more expensive than the launch price, on a 6 year old Motherboard, which is stupid! figured I'd try this forum before giving up, I'd be willing to send my board if you were looking to use yours for mining, my board should be OKAY for that, but only has 2 PCI-E x16 slots (one in X8 mode) Trying to stick with Gigabyte, cause their products have never failed me.


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## reaver83

jclafi said:


> Here where i live decent AM3+ motherboards are rare by now. When you find one or it´s used (and expensive), or is new and (very expensive). Got my UD5 ver 3.0 back in 2012, a good part.
> 
> Good Luck !


IKR! Live in the US, and yes, it is extremely difficult to find a fairly cheap FXA board, unless it is in some way shape or form borken (yes I spelled that right, lol). Last one I looked at, the CPU sled was broke, guy didn't even bother trying to boot it, ebay Auction price went well over $100USD for a unknown condition board! no thanks!


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## whatwherewhy

@reaver83 , i agree with you, it is very difficult to find a second hand 990FXA mainboard. I used to keep track of the price(i live in EastEurope) since 2014 when i bought mine. And the price kept going up. I know its weird, because with the new platforms(AM4 DDR4) you would expect the AM3+ DDR3 prices to go down. But nooo...Beside the fact that in nov 2017 there was no 990XA mainboard in stock, the price was very high even for UD3, not to mention UD5, UD7, around $150~$180, 110~150 Euros. Maybe for others this price is not high but for an old platform DDR3 AM3+ i say it was overpriced.
If i were you, i would avoid second hand mainboards unless you know the seller well and the history of that board.
@JennyBeans , how much for the fish? your UD3.. What cpu cooler did you use on that UD3 ?


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## JennyBeans

whatwherewhy said:


> @*reaver83* , i agree with you, it is very difficult to find a second hand 990FXA mainboard. I used to keep track of the price(i live in EastEurope) since 2014 when i bought mine. And the price kept going up. I know its weird, because with the new platforms(AM4 DDR4) you would expect the AM3+ DDR3 prices to go down. But nooo...Beside the fact that in nov 2017 there was no 990XA mainboard in stock, the price was very high even for UD3, not to mention UD5, UD7, around $150~$180, 110~150 Euros. Maybe for others this price is not high but for an old platform DDR3 AM3+ i say it was overpriced.
> If i were you, i would avoid second hand mainboards unless you know the seller well and the history of that board.
> @*JennyBeans* , how much for the fish? your UD3.. What cpu cooler did you use on that UD3 ?



not sure .. I'm still using it I don't get my x470 mobo till the 27th then there's the issue of lack of ram to run my ryzen, and I'm currently using a h80 atm


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## whatwherewhy

@*JennyBeans* , i see. So your mainboard got bended-warpped all byitself ? because of the heat? Did you always use the h80 liquid on your 990FXA-UD3 ? I am asking because my board is warpped also , but i used a heavy Thermaltake Contac 39 , beyond the board weight limit that is 600 grams.


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## JennyBeans

whatwherewhy said:


> @*JennyBeans* , i see. So your mainboard got bended-warpped all byitself ? because of the heat? Did you always use the h80 liquid on your 990FXA-UD3 ? I am asking because my board is warpped also , but i used a heavy Thermaltake Contac 39 , beyond the board weight limit that is 600 grams.



the pc was my sisters before hand but the h80 has been used in it even before she got the board so I'm assuming its heat related the board is off just by a hair on the i/o shield .. not enough to cause problems or anything tho except I'm guess might be the cause of the lag spikes while gaming ? I'm not entirely sure if thats a direct cause but I suspect it


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## jclafi

I had some lag's while gaming (most Bethesda w/ ID Tech games) and was the HDD reading too much (Even w/ 16Gb RAM and 6Gb VRam). After change to SSD everything is normal.

My FX is overclocked but Turbo only.


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## whatwherewhy

@jclafi , What do you mean Turbo only? Did you modify the Core Performance Boost ratio only? @JennyBeans , thank you, your answer kind of cleared out some things that i didnt know for sure.

ps: Core Performance Boost Feature is dust in the eyes, was used for the marketing strategy. I have tested the performance with this "Turbo Boost" (Core performance Boost) ON and OFF , auto and manual, and i was very dissapointed, the results were not good. I have used several applications. Core Boost feature kicks in (is enabeld) when NOT all of the cores are used. If all the cpu cores are used 100% load then the Core Boost will kick in only for HALF a second then it will go off, all the cores runing on base clock 100%. I've seen it with my own eyes. This feature doesnt help much, even if you have good cooling.
Real scenario:
Manual overlock from 3.9 Ghz --->> 4.2 Ghz = Better Performance
Auto Clock 3.9 Ghz + Turbo Boost 4.2 Ghz = Poor Performance


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## JennyBeans

@whatwherewhy no worries, seems to be a common issue with these boards, kind of a shame that they're hard to find, they look really nice and when they do work they perform well


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## whatwherewhy

@JennyBeans , they do perform well, i had my UD3 running nonstop at full load for weeks and sometimes months without problems, without restarts. I think the FX age is over for a good time. The "pc-fashion" changes fast, if you buy new hardware now, after 2 years, your hardware is ancient. The hardware companies made this trend, every 6 months, they develop new faster components(which is good). The question is, why would any company build+sell old architecture like AM3+ 990FXA, when DDR4 and ryzen is the new song? AM3+ 990FXA mainboards are missing from e-stores stocks.
Regarding myself, i drool all over the new TR4 mainboards, i really wish i could ripp some app threads with a Threadripper 1950. Its good to have a pc market full of new powerful products; its just sad when you cannot keep the pace with the tech-trend, even if your old hardware can keep up with the new games/apps. You slowly tend to be sorry that you stil have an old arhcitecture. I admit, i am not so happy about my old hardware like i used to be several years ago, even if it runs fine.
Good luck in building your new Ryzen platform, just think of me when you're building it


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## jclafi

I've been using heavy coolers for 6 years and my board is normal, not warped at all. First w/ TermalRight Ultra 120, now Coler Master Hyper 212X push/pull.

Yes Core Performance Boost ratio and CPU and IMC Voltage...

About the overclocking i find out that my games run better w/ all cores @ 4.1Ghz and Turbo (3 cores) @ 5.3. Because if the games runs M.T the FX @ 4.1 can handle quite easy, and if only runs 2/4 treads the Turbo @ 5.3 do a great job !

Since only the Turbo is overclocked i need much less voltage, and still using C1E and Cool and Quiet. I use about 1.59v for CPU.

This is the best overclock i had in years. Also, since i use 4 slots of memory the overclock to all cores are limited.

See ya guys


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## whatwherewhy

@jclafi , you have a great mainboard then if its not bended/warpped after using very heavy cpu cooler. Regarding Turbo Boost ratio + overclocking, good for you if its running fine and you're happy with it. In the past i have used a similar scenario (i do not own 83xx) on my 3c/6t Fx, and it wasnt smooth. I have tested with C6 C1E and CoolnQuiet ON and OFF. When i manually set up the CPB ratio above x22, the Bios didnt even show the final boost freq. The pc is booting but it only shows the base clock. But in the conclusion, on my Fx, the Core Performance Boost doesnt help at all, i am talking about multi-threaded apps, i am not talking about some games that uses 2 or 3 cores. I will make a poor comparison here, this is how i see CPB feature:
"Let's say you have a 6 cylinders/pistons engine. Running all the 6 pistons at full throttle is more efficient and powerful then running only 3 or 4 pistons over the normal full throttle parameters". i am aware that the comparison could seem an unfair one because of the multiple variables and different disadvantages/advantages, but the main point is, when using all the cores at 100% load, nothing special is happening, the CPB feature is useless.


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## jclafi

I agree w/ you, overclocking all cores is the best possible scenario. 

However in my case, as i sayd, there are some problems. 

First: Weak IMC or BIOS bugs: Since i installed 16 Gb RAM (4 slots used) my "all core overclock" do not work very well. Very hard to run all cores above 4.4Ghz....

Second: A lot of desktop app's use up to 2/3 threads.. So a Turbo clock of 5.3 is awesome ! And uses a lot less voltage/heat then all cores. See i run 1.59v w/ a modest Hyper 212x push/pull, Something not possible if all cores where overclocked. My cooler max out @ 4.6Ghz with all cores and 1.47v.

Third: I guess you only need more CPU and IMC voltage to run the Turbo at higher clocks. Perhaps a Clear CMOS and increase the overclock little by little (i did that) can be helpfull. If i jump from 4.2 to 5.3 Turbo my Motherboard dont Boot. If i go little by little (100Mhz per cycle), it goes and runs fine.

Good Luck !


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## whatwherewhy

@*jclafi* ,can you please tell me, if you have HPC option enabled or disabled ?

HPC = High Performance Compute , in my bios says nothing , only disable or enable, it doesnt explain in details what it is. By default is disabled.
So far i understood that this option HPC when enabled, is overwriting the C6 C1E state. For me is confusing, i made several tests with this HPC mode ON and OFF, but i couldnt tell whats the best option. 

The mainboard manual says:
"Allows you to determine whether to enable High Performance Computing (HPC) mode for the CPU. Enabled
prevents the CPU frequency from being lowered during system halt state. (Default: Disabled)"

What about the SVM(virtualization) option, do you have it disabled or enabled ? i know what it does, but some says that this option slows down the cpu when it is enabled.


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## jclafi

Yes i always use the HPC option. But the frequency under light load drops, so it's a bit confusing. 

Also i dont disable virtualization, i could disable since i don't run any VM, but... 

I did some test's yesterday with CPUz and my S.T results beat the FX-9590, but i lose in the M.T, as expected.

If you need a detailed settings of my overclock just ask for it..

See Ya



whatwherewhy said:


> @*jclafi* ,can you please tell me, if you have HPC option enabled or disabled ?
> 
> HPC = High Performance Compute , in my bios says nothing , only disable or enable, it doesnt explain in details what it is. By default is disabled.
> So far i understood that this option HPC when enabled, is overwriting the C6 C1E state. For me is confusing, i made several tests with this HPC mode ON and OFF, but i couldnt tell whats the best option.
> 
> The mainboard manual says:
> "Allows you to determine whether to enable High Performance Computing (HPC) mode for the CPU. Enabled
> prevents the CPU frequency from being lowered during system halt state. (Default: Disabled)"
> 
> What about the SVM(virtualization) option, do you have it disabled or enabled ? i know what it does, but some says that this option slows down the cpu when it is enabled.


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## whatwherewhy

@jclafi , thank you, but i wont overclock anymore since its summer time and the room temp doesnt help me at all. And beside that i dont have your cpu, my cpu is not so powerful.
Your FX-8350 running at @ 5.3Ghz on Turbo, sounds good, 5 Ghz is a lot for any core of any cpu model. Congrats for beating the FX-9590 on ST.
I am running my systems at stock frequency during summer time.
I agree with you regarding the HPC option, why would they put an option to "disable" the C6 and C1E state when the user could disable them from the begining.
One thing is certain, this HPC mode does nothing, according to my tests, there is almost no difference with HPC ON or OFF.
Same thing i can say about SVM option also. Its usefull when using Virtual Machines, but if i disable it, there is also not much performance improvement, so i think you are right, better leave it enable anyway.
See Ya.


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## BuranC

I am moving to Ryzen (with high-end motherboard this time) because my 990FXA UD3 ( rev 3 ) VRM blew up by MOSFET overheating recently. 

Today it is hard is to find decent AM3+ motherboards, specially brand new (all 970 cheapo boards, no Asus Gaming Aura in stock anymore). However I just test in other more basic AM3+ motherboard that my FX-8350 and the DDR3 RAM work. I was thinking about to use them in a secondary PC, but I need an AM3+ motherboard for that. It is viable to repair an 990FXA UD3 soldering new MOSFETs or it is too much hassle/probably won't work? The other option I have is to buy a cheapo motherboard, but they have even crappier VRMs and cooling (Asrock 970 Pro 3, Gigabyte 970A DS3P and the crap mATX Asrock and Asus with 700 series chipsets). I discard the second hand market here, the decent 990 boards are all used and overpriced, costing much more than brand new and at same cost that the good AM4 boards with X470 chipset.


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## jclafi

Forget AM3+, sell everything and go AM4.

I just got R5 2600 + MSI X470 Gaming Pro. Now searching for the memory.

My AM3+ setup will go to a second RIG.


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## whatwherewhy

@BuranC , i agree with @jclafi. He is right. Forget about AM3+ , you should invest in the new AMD platform.
I own a ga-970A-D3 v1.1 and ga-990FXA-UD3 v3.0 , they are working normal so far. I have removed the thermal-pad from vrms cooler for 990FXA.
I guess the smart thing to do is to install a custom copper cooler on the mosfets but now its too late for you. Sorry, probably my 990fxa will also die soon. The majority owners from this forum have additional custom fan blowing air directly on VRM mosfets to keep them in normal temp range. Probably they keep the pc case open, just to help the air circulation.
But in case of something i will NOT buy another AM3+ mainboard. Yes you are right too, its hard to find a good AM3+ mainboard, and when you find one, the price is so high, that it doesnt worth the money.
If you want to try to repair your mainboard and replace the VRM mosfets, you can try, search for the components, calculate the total+shipping fee, but you will need a "hako hot air station" and a lot of flux to replace those mosfets. You can try to test the mosfets, maybe only one or two mosfets are burnt. There so many variables, it depends on how you look at the problem. You should try to repair your own mainboard, dont give up, you must have hope. Even if lets say that in the end your mainboard is totally damaged and there is nothing you can do, you will know that you've tried. At least you will know for sure. If you are lucky, it is possible that only 2 or 3 mosfets are damaged.


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## whatwherewhy

*MOS_HS removed again*

Here are few images with 990FXA thermal paste applied on each mosfet. After the removal of the MOS-HeatSink we can clearly see that the mainboard is warped. I personally dont like using thermal pads so until i will make a custom MOS-HS from copper, i will leave the Mosfets naked. I am surprised that it didnt failed yet, the system was stressed 100% load for months in bad conditions as you can see the dirt-dust particles around the mosfets.


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## GeneStarWindGSW

Well i haven't given up on my Gigabyte board yet. I got a GA-990FXA-UD3 Rev4 second hand ~ 6 months ago and it worked great, but i started having PSU/GPU issues. My main PCI-e slot was damaged and i think caused my GPU problems (and the card i'm using has tons of issues related to it as well). The PSU i had was recalled by EVGA, so i felt like everything was going down hill fast with my build lol.

Now the board ain't powering up at all and i really don't feel like junking the board. So i did some research and got real lucky. I found schematics for the 990FXA-UD3 boards, so i'll test my luck and see if i can fix it. (If these boards were not going $100+ on ebay, i'd just buy another.)




whatwherewhy said:


> Here are few images with 990FXA thermal paste applied on each mosfet. After the removal of the MOS-HeatSink we can clearly see that the mainboard is warped. I personally dont like using thermal pads so until i will make a custom MOS-HS from copper, i will leave the Mosfets naked. I am surprised that it didnt failed yet, the system was stressed 100% load for months in bad conditions as you can see the dirt-dust particles around the mosfets.


I also had this watercooled, i was testing it to see how far i could push it. On that note...

I removed the stock heatsinks on the board and used universal blocks for the NB/SB and used a Heatkiller waterblock and re-drilled it to fit & cool the VRMs. I also put heatsinks on the chokes too (i'll post up photos of how i had it fully assemblied when i pull the photos off my main rig) IIRC with watercooled VRMs, under full load temps were ~79c (thermal pad under heatsink, wasn't using thermal paste)


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## whatwherewhy

@GeneStarWindGSW , bad luck indeed, but how could the mainboard run with that PCI-E slot damaged? The slot was damaged from the previous owner?
Those board schematics that got lost from a truck in taiwan  , nice work.
Others claim that their mainboard is straight(not warpped) even with heavy cooling system attached. I believe them. Maybe i did something wrong. I remember that every time i install a motherboard, the first thing i do is this:
#1 install the cpu(only)
#2 install the ram(if the cpu cooling is blocking the ram slots)
#3 install the cpu cooling
#4 mount the mainboard inside the case, because for me it is much easier to install them outside the pc case fist.

I wonder if the mainboard would've been got bent-warpped IF i would've been mount the mainboard in the pc case FIRST and THEN add the rest of the components.

The ~79C temperature seems to be too high taking in consideration your cooling system. I thought the water cooling is the best solution. In the past i was thinking that solid copper blocks are the optimum system to cool any electronic component but i was wrong. Later i've discovered that heatpipes are the most efficient system than a solid metal block. I believe the liquid cooling is eficient too but it only works fine when there is no additional material betwen the electronic component and the cooling block(metal). I wish that the manufacturers embrace the idea of producing/selling the final component(mosfets/chokes) with "integrated cooling" already attached from the factory. It was suppose to be mandatory, not optional. When i say "integrated cooling" i mean metal plates+heatpipes+radiator or small cooling blocks with pipe connectors for liquid cooling systems, not thermalpads. I know that thermalpads are fine and they are used on graphic cards where the temps go high ~85C, but come on, we are in 2018. For how many years we are suppose to use thermalpads on desktop platforms?

I feel so old thinking that we are here, struggling with old AM3+ mainboards and FX cpus, and the rest of the world has moved on on new Ryzen platforms. I feel like we are stuck in the past.

ps: if you have the energy and the mood to post photos with your 990FXA mainboard, don't hesitate, i will take a look.


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