# New products from Monsoon cooling



## solidshark91493

So, Chatting with Gene from Monsoon. He said they're going to be launching this stuff soon. Check it out!

"Modular Tube Reservoir System
Well the new Modular Tube Reservoirs are finally done!

It is a bit of an explanation, but it is a modular system featuring 60mm diameter tubes, various molded end caps, machined stainless tension rods, various machined aluminum parts, mounts, and lights etc. The goal is to have all the individual components sold individually so each builder can assemble exactly the reservoir he needs for his particular build. Think Lego's and being able to make a reservoir that fits what you are trying to do rather than being forced to bend your build to fit an off the shelf one size fits all reservoir.

Shown below is a render of most of the different components available at launch--these are just some of the colors as all 10 of our Monsoon color finishes will be available.







Reservoir tubes will come in colors matched to our Hardline acrylic and PETG tube and in six lengths from 2' (50mm) to 12" (300mm) in 2" (50mm) increments. End caps will come in two variants--with and without side facing ports--and in zero, one, and three end facing ports. The fill and drain port parts come in a round AND square variant to better match your build and are machined aluminum. Mounts--also machined aluminum--come in a low profile 1/2" (12mm) "Grasshopper" tall, 1" (25mm) tall, and 2" (50mm) tall, and allow for 60 degrees rotation right or left. They also have machined aluminum "load spreaders" for the back side. The tube couplers feature side ports so you can put side facing ports anywhere along the length of the reservoir in 2" (50mm) lengths and you can join or "couple" as many tube sections together as you like. Tensions rods are solid machined stainless. There is a D5 pump head end and also a matching stand alone D5 pump head. There are purpose built Dual Bulb CCFL lights that fit behind the reservoir/s and put out a lot of high quality light. They allow you to light each tube segment the color of your choice also so you can mix and match as required by your theme.

I don't want this first post to be a mile long so I can give more details later. Below are pictures of the assemblies given away as prizes at last weekends Quake Con. These are just three of four of the hundreds, (maybe thousands) of possible combinations as it is a truly modular system...there is even a part that allows you to mate tube reservoirs to our best selling Monsoon Two dual bay reservoirs.


This is our Monsoon Two Dual Bay Reservoir, the tube adapter back plate, 4 inch (100mm) UV green tube, 4" (100mm) matte black tension rods, the molded D5 motor end, and matte black motor tube cover.


This is the round (it also comes in a square) machined aluminum outside cap in blue, The molded fill / drain port end cap, 2" (50mm) dark blue tube, 2" (50mm) blue tension rods with matching blue screws, and molded one port end cap with side ports, (you can get the end cap with or without side facing ports). There is a blue plug you can't see down in the overflow basin. The overflow basin features a telescoping O ring seal that allows the unit to adjust from 1mm case panel thickness to 6mm thickness and seals. That way if you accidentally overflow a bit when filling it won't leak from the outside into your case.


Starting from the back--molded 3 port end cap with red silver bullet antimicrobial plug and two standard stop plugs in red, 12" (300mm) blood red tube, 12" (300mm) red tension rods with matching red screws, molded one port end cap, and Low profile 1/2" (12mm) "Grasshopper" machined aluminum mounts in red.


This unit is intended to be mounted horizontally and has two molded D5 pump caps, two 4" (100mm) tubes in UV green, 2 sets of 4" (100mm) matte black tension rods, a molded two port tube coupler, 1" (25mm) machined aluminum mounts, and two twin bulb CCFL light units in UV.

Quality is top notch and on par with our M2 reservoirs. As I mentioned the 60mm diameter reservoir tubes are color matched to our Hard Line acrylic and PETG tubing. The metal parts will be available in all ten of our Monsoon color finishes so they exactly match all of our compression fittings, accessory plugs, rotaries, etc. I don't know prices yet but they should be inline with any other premium tube reservoirs on the market...so likely not "chap" but not "OMG" expensive either. Manufacturing on the first run is done and being loaded on a slow boat to keep shipping costs down...so about 5 weeks. Performance PC's may break down and order some for air shipment...so about two weeks (give or take) if they do."

So, in short. Literally THOUSANDS of combinations can be made with these parts. And I believe there are more to come after the launch.


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## BoxGods

Looks like Performance is ordering a batch air shipped...so about two weeks give or take.

Let me know if anyone has any questions...


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## Radnad

Wow these look incredible, and I'm in the market for a res upgrade! I just hope their cost isn't a legend in their own mind...


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## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Wow these look incredible, and I'm in the market for a res upgrade! I just hope their cost isn't a legend in their own mind...


Should be near most other premium reservoirs. Not cheap, but not break the bank.


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## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks like Performance is ordering a batch air shipped...so about two weeks give or take.
> 
> Let me know if anyone has any questions...


I didn't know you were here as well. Like I mentioned over email, thanks for all the info


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## BoxGods

They are premium parts so as solid shark mentioned, in line with other premium tube reservoirs. Depending on your build they might come in a bit cheaper because you only need to buy the parts you need for your actual build...non of the usual filler crap that pushes the price up. Also when you upgrade your machine or move the reservoir to a new build, you can get only the parts needed tor any changes.


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## Radnad

That blue one up there would fit quit well with my Industrial Reclamation sig rig. Will be watching ppcs to get them in.


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## DapperDan795

That dual bay res is very interesting. Not sure what purpose the tube res attachment would serve but the design looks slick.


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## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DapperDan795*
> 
> That dual bay res is very interesting. Not sure what purpose the tube res attachment would serve but the design looks slick.


To me it seems to just have more water capacity.


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> That blue one up there would fit quit well with my Industrial Reclamation sig rig. Will be watching ppcs to get them in.


Keep in mind any pictures you see of an assembled reservoir is not really "the" product as there is no "single' product. The point is allowing anyone to configure exactly the reservoir they need for their particular build. That is my biggest worry for this launch...guys will skim through posts and think the assembly shown in the picture is the product.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DapperDan795*
> 
> That dual bay res is very interesting. Not sure what purpose the tube res attachment would serve but the design looks slick.


As mentioned, you can add more reservoir capacity. It also allows you to select the tube length you want to get ports farther back into the case...the stock lengths are 50mm, 100mm, 150mm, 200mm, 250mm, and 300mm but you can also add in couplers with side facing ports (pointed any direction you like) to make ports available pretty much anywhere...like right over a CPU or chip set block...or right under a radiator port, etc.

Plus it is just awesome looking to have the tube seemingly floating in space. You also don't need to put a pump end on it--you can use one of the other molded end cap variations....endless variations and creative opportunities is sort of the point =)


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## Deedaz

Wow! These look amazing







Can't wait to see some build logs!


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## DapperDan795

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Keep in mind any pictures you see of an assembled reservoir is not really "the" product as there is no "single' product. The point is allowing anyone to configure exactly the reservoir they need for their particular build. That is my biggest worry for this launch...guys will skim through posts and think the assembly shown in the picture is the product.
> As mentioned, you can add more reservoir capacity. It also allows you to select the tube length you want to get ports farther back into the case...the stock lengths are 50mm, 100mm, 150mm, 200mm, 250mm, and 300mm but you can also add in couplers with side facing ports (pointed any direction you like) to make ports available pretty much anywhere...like right over a CPU or chip set block...or right under a radiator port, etc.
> 
> Plus it is just awesome looking to have the tube seemingly floating in space. You also don't need to put a pump end on it--you can use one of the other molded end cap variations....endless variations and creative opportunities is sort of the point =)


Ah ok I see what you are saying. Pretty cool ideas there with being able to add ports farther back.


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## stanneveld

Just wish they shipped out the 10/13 PETG to Europe, there is like no shop that sells it
Making mine with normal gittings not and convert with the kits to hardline when it finaly gets here.


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## Fruergaard

Looks very good








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks like Performance is ordering a batch air shipped...so about two weeks give or take.
> 
> Let me know if anyone has any questions...


What is the diameter of the D5 mount/top?


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stanneveld*
> 
> Just wish they shipped out the 10/13 PETG to Europe, there is like no shop that sells it
> Making mine with normal gittings not and convert with the kits to hardline when it finaly gets here.


Ports are industry standard G 1/4 so you can use any fittings you like as none are included.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fruergaard*
> 
> Looks very good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the diameter of the D5 mount/top?


I believe the machined aluminum pump mounting tube is 76mm in diameter and the molded pump end cap is very slightly larger because of the 0.5mm bevel so say 77mm or a tad over 3 inches in diameter.


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## BoxGods

Had a bunch of people ask why there are two different molded D5 pump bodies. One is to mount a D5 (or it's variants) directly to a tube reservoir--like the dualie shown in the OP. The other is for a stand alone D5 in the same style for those that might want to mount the pump (or a second pump) elsewhere but still have it match. Images below of the stand alone with red trim--as always they come in all 10 of our Monsoon color finishes to perfectly match our fittings and rotaries etc.


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## VSG

Oh nice, you were missing in a standalone D5 top so this takes care of it. Any love for the DDC coming in?


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## SlvrDragon50

Wow... that D5 pump cover is gorgeous...

Absolutely love Monsoon products. I don't know why they aren't used more frequently.


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Oh nice, you were missing in a standalone D5 top so this takes care of it. Any love for the DDC coming in?


I will do a stand alone for the DDC if there is interest...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Wow... that D5 pump cover is gorgeous...
> 
> Absolutely love Monsoon products. I don't know why they aren't used more frequently.


Thanks for the kind words =)


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## VSG

Well then here's my thumbs up for interest in a standalone DDC top/mod kit:


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## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Had a bunch of people ask why there are two different molded D5 pump bodies. One is to mount a D5 (or it's variants) directly to a tube reservoir--like the dualie shown in the OP. The other is for a stand alone D5 in the same style for those that might want to mount the pump (or a second pump) elsewhere but still have it match. Images below of the stand alone with red trim--as always they come in all 10 of our Monsoon color finishes to perfectly match our fittings and rotaries etc.


Look absolutely gorgeous like all other Monsoon product! Waiting for the new modular tube reservoirs to be sale.

Is there a guide or tutorial somewhere so I can figure out what parts to buy depending on my setup? Or they going to come pre-assembled?


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## BoxGods

I am at the shop working on the how to videos now. Will be out soon (like a week or less).

Some resellers will probably offer the more common configurations pre assembled but the goal is to sell the parts individually so that buildeers can make whatever they can dream up =)


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## SlvrDragon50

Are you guys doing any hydraulic tests of the D5 top or sent any samples out?

I use an EK top right now which directly mounts to my reservoir w/ a M/M fitting, but I could be convinced to make the switch if it performs well.


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlvrDragon50*
> 
> Are you guys doing any hydraulic tests of the D5 top or sent any samples out?
> 
> I use an EK top right now which directly mounts to my reservoir w/ a M/M fitting, but I could be convinced to make the switch if it performs well.


It uses our "standard" pump head design--the same one used in all of our bay reservoirs (which have been reviewed by Martin and others) so performance is slightly better than a stock D5--more than up to the job IOW. If your interest is based 100% on performance numbers and getting one or two percent more flow on a test bench is what motivates you--and there is nothing wrong with that of course--then there are a few other choices you would be happier with. This product is aimed more at guys who want solid performance AND a better design aesthetic.. I am not even sure who is still doing independent testing these days since Martin retired. If you know of somebody trustworthy in the community I would be happy to send out a sample.


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## RnRollie

Quote:


> "Modular Tube Reservoir System
> ....
> Think Lego's and being able to make a reservoir that fits what you are trying to do rather than being forced to bend your build to fit an off the shelf one size fits all reservoir.
> ....


I'm rather thinking "Hey, its Koolance BYO, but with added flair & colours"









Some good looking stuff there, hope it doesn't break the bank








Depending on availability, i might get some of it.


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## MrMD

these new res look great,any idea on a time frame when we can expect to see all the parts available to buy in the UK?


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> these new res look great,any idea on a time frame when we can expect to see all the parts available to buy in the UK?


About three weeks "ish" depending on ship time.


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## Dave6531

Getting one of these for my military theme would look awesome.


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## eucalyptus

Well, they are one month late, already ordered FrozenQ fusion reservoirs....


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Getting one of these for my military theme would look awesome.


Yeah they do have a machine/mechanical feel that is kind of weapon or bomb looking. Maybe blood red tube with red lights like the ones used in jet fighter cockpits and inside tanks--I guess so can't be seen from a distance--and matte black tension rods and mounts maybe?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Well, they are one month late, already ordered FrozenQ fusion reservoirs....


Or maybe we are just 6 months early for your NEXT build


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## eucalyptus

Well, there seems like Aquatuning, the FrozenQ deliverer to Sweden has some big issues about my stuff I ordered 3 weeks ago........

It has always said it should come in-stock today, now it says un-known (dunno what you call it in english?).

So as a backup.

When do Monsoon launch their stuff in Europe? I could need it, like right now for my 8500 USD build.

I got Monsoon green fittings all over my loop, can't wait until I get them! I FREAKING LOVE THE GREEN COLOR!!

Could get fittings like Barrow extremely cheap, but for Monsoon I can pay for premium just because it is green


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## BoxGods

Depends on when AT orders. I would love to tell you about 20 days but just to be on the safe side figure 30.

I hate to sound like an old woman...but if I stole other companies designs and tooling, (which is very expensive), and had no development and testing costs, none of the costs that come from customer service after the sale etc. etc....it is easy to sell dirt cheap when your company is essentially a thief as Barrow is. If your neighbor had items stolen from their house and you later saw them for sale somewhere cheap...would you be OK with buying them?

As I said that may sound like an old woman but it is essentially what they are doing. We are not some huge company with hundreds or thousands of employees. Monsoon is owned and run by two Mom and Pop couples--one in the US and one in China. We have about 10 employees who we try to pay well and treat with respect. None of us are rich--or even well off to be candid. That is who they are stealing from and whom you support by buying their stolen goods.

If Barrow disagrees with that assessment they are more than welcome to come in here and discuss it like decent honest people--or they could answer my emails. Cowards and thieves the lot of them IMO.


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## eucalyptus

You should hire some more employees so you could grow to the biggest water cooling company









You know people love your products, we just need more and more! It all hangs on how much you can deliver and to what prices
















When I am talking to you, I just want to say one thing: stay to the open color option!! Never remove the option of so many different colors. Your options of green fittings is the only reason why I choose you instead of all other companies, before Bitspower, EK and all other companies







:thumb:


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> You should hire some more employees so you could grow to the biggest water cooling company
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You know people love your products, we just need more and more! It all hangs on how much you can deliver and to what prices
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I am talking to you, I just want to say one thing: stay to the open color option!! Never remove the option of so many different colors. Your options of green fittings is the only reason why I choose you instead of all other companies, before Bitspower, EK and all other companies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :thumb:


Thanks for the kind words =)

I wish adding employees was the secrete to growth but sadly it is the other way round. Your comment on the green color is a good example of what I am talking about with Barrow. We make all the colors we do because I know what it feels like to have an orange themed build and not have that color available. I go round and round with our resellers constantly trying to get them take at least a little of the less popular colors--people never seem to get tired of matte black, blue, and red.

Making little batches of purple, orange, green, gold, and white cost us a fair bit more to produce but we STILL do it to support the community. I have even done tiny batches of copper finishes for guys who just had to have copper to fit their theme. There are costs in taking care of your customers and the community. Also...why would any of the more creative companies invest R&D capital on cool new stuff if companies like Barrow are just going to come along and rip us off?

This is one of the few things I get irate about...stepping off my soap box now and putting it away.


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## iBruce

Much praise for your fittings, made my transition to water cooling an easy one. Third water loop, same 1/2x3/4 matte black Monsoons.

Can you not patent your fastening tightening tool mechanism so others cannot copy you?

Sorry, I'm still in the dark over the entire CaseLabs Thermaltake dilemma.

I don't understand what keeps these designs (like yours and Jim's) from initial patents.


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## VSG

A patentable product has to be unique, applicable and non obvious. Fittings have been around for ages outside of PC watercooling and thus rules out those three factors being applicable.


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## iBruce

Even the fastening mechanism and separate tightening tool? That was uniquely Monsoon at launch.


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## Unnatural

They're so beautiful (and the whole concept so brilliant) I'm actually putting my build on hold and wait for them to be available in Europe.








I was already going to use Monsoon rotaries and hardline fittings (mixing free center with some chain gun), so it's a perfect match!








Going to grab some 60 mm tube and make some mockup to see how to fit it into my case!


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## MrMD

Massive fan of Monsoon fittings,always recommend them to others.Look great,reliable,well priced,great packaging (Unboxing is fun







)


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## Radnad

Kind of getting tired of the competitor bashing. Life is not fair unfortunately, we all have to deal with it. Beat them at thier own game and the strong will survive.

These new products are a perfect example of beating them. Keep expanding your line with cutting edge products like this and you will win.

Just don't come back and say your suspending all colors except black if you get too popular, that's not winning, thats cowering...


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Kind of getting tired of the competitor bashing. Life is not fair unfortunately, we all have to deal with it. Beat them at thier own game and the strong will survive.
> 
> These new products are a perfect example of beating them. Keep expanding your line with cutting edge products like this and you will win.
> 
> Just don't come back and say your suspending all colors except black if you get too popular, that's not winning, thats cowering...


Your right of course...and that is all most manufacturers would ask for. Come out with a better design. I spent a lot of time and capital developing our bending mandrels and bending tools for hard line tube. Then I priced them to resellers *at our cost* so that they were accessible to as many builders as possible. I made how to videos, sent out lots of free samples, answered a TON of emails from people needing help--and I am not complaining as I get a lot of satisfaction from the mod community. Barrow then starts selling our bending mandrels--EXACT same design right down to the logo. They even knocked off our sales description almost word for word. They even knocked off the name. Left out all the screws and hardware that actually make the mandrels work so well and skimped on the quality...not a single improvement to the design.

How is that competition? I will happily go toe to toe with ANY company on design, quality, customer service, value, etc.

And I will NEVER stop making the colors...if your reseller doesn't have the color you want it is usually because they chose not to carry it not because we stopped making them =)


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Much praise for your fittings, made my transition to water cooling an easy one. Third water loop, same 1/2x3/4 matte black Monsoons.
> 
> Can you not patent your fastening tightening tool mechanism so others cannot copy you?
> 
> Sorry, I'm still in the dark over the entire CaseLabs Thermaltake dilemma.
> 
> I don't understand what keeps these designs (like yours and Jim's) from initial patents.


Thanks for the kind words and love that picture...you have no idea how big a kick I get out of seeing those. The tool is a novel application of an existing design--your basic box wrench and a fitting with flats on it. Cool and usefull but not different enough to merit a patent. The windows on our Free Centers and our Chain Gun fittings do have Design Patents.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> A patentable product has to be unique, applicable and non obvious. Fittings have been around for ages outside of PC watercooling and thus rules out those three factors being applicable.


Exactly. A perfect example is PrimoChill and how they used a similar concept on their revolver fittings. Our two companies have had our differences over the years but they went with a pin wrench which in my mind is being different enough from ours. Cheers to them for "free thinking it".

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> They're so beautiful (and the whole concept so brilliant) I'm actually putting my build on hold and wait for them to be available in Europe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was already going to use Monsoon rotaries and hardline fittings (mixing free center with some chain gun), so it's a perfect match!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to grab some 60 mm tube and make some mockup to see how to fit it into my case!


Thanks for the kind words =) I am trying to get an interactive web page done that will allow guys to try different combinations and configurations, then once you have what you want it will generate dimensions and a parts list...just having a hard time finding a company or free lance guy that can do it for a reasonable price. If I can't find one I will at least try to put together an automated spreadsheet or similar.

Hopefully about 20 days till EU resellers have stock but plan on 30 just to be safe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Massive fan of Monsoon fittings,always recommend them to others.Look great,reliable,well priced,great packaging (Unboxing is fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Thanks =) I do all of our design work--including the packaging, (good and bad).


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## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yeah they do have a machine/mechanical feel that is kind of weapon or bomb looking. Maybe blood red tube with red lights like the ones used in jet fighter cockpits and inside tanks--I guess so can't be seen from a distance--and matte black tension rods and mounts maybe?


Thats kind of the lines I was thinking but may try a clear tube as i was thinking of using a reddish hydraulic fluid color then using Stainless Braided sleeving over some of the lines to make it look like hydraulic lines. Will be using the horizontal setup the running it to an ek-xtop for the pump then going from there. Will also be looking forward to using monsoon fittings as I love the clean minimalist look. It'll be my first water cooling setup so should be a fun experience.


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Thats kind of the lines I was thinking but may try a clear tube as i was thinking of using a reddish hydraulic fluid color then using Stainless Braided sleeving over some of the lines to make it look like hydraulic lines. Will be using the horizontal setup the running it to an ek-xtop for the pump then going from there. Will also be looking forward to using monsoon fittings as I love the clean minimalist look. It'll be my first water cooling setup so should be a fun experience.


Sounds interesting. The hydraulic oil concept reminds me of some movie several years back where they made some sort of bomb that became active when the red fluid was pumped into a clear fluid...looked very ominous


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## eucalyptus

Well I need to ask you something, I am so confused









Why is there different shades of green of the same product?

Compare these two, it's the same product but different green









http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/anslutningar/adaptrar/14705/monsoon-13/10mm-od-1/2-rotary-45-green

https://www.caseking.de/en/monsoon-adapter-45-grad-13-10mm-gruen-wasa-275.html

My second question, which is more of a request.
The Rotary adapters. Why don't you make an T with two directions instead of one that you have today? Same with the 45 degree angle, I know you got a light port version but I can't find it in Europe with 13/10mm









'Cause now I have to drill a hole to get a 2 way split T









Have you any plans to do extension fittings or something like that?


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Well I need to ask you something, I am so confused
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why is there different shades of green of the same product?
> 
> Compare these two, it's the same product but different green
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.se/vattenkylning/anslutningar/adaptrar/14705/monsoon-13/10mm-od-1/2-rotary-45-green
> 
> https://www.caseking.de/en/monsoon-adapter-45-grad-13-10mm-gruen-wasa-275.html
> 
> My second question, which is more of a request.
> The Rotary adapters. Why don't you make an T with two directions instead of one that you have today? Same with the 45 degree angle, I know you got a light port version but I can't find it in Europe with 13/10mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 'Cause now I have to drill a hole to get a 2 way split T
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you any plans to do extension fittings or something like that?


I suspect the different shades are from different shops taking the pictures in different light settings. When I selected the colors I intentionally made the green, red, blue, etc slightly lighter in shade because over the years I noticed parts get quite a bit darker once installed in your case. A lot like stage lighting and makeup. If you make the color look correct in normal room lighting once installed in your build it gets way too dark--in some case lighting scenarios it gets almost black.

On the "T's" for rotaries your correct that the Light Port rotaries are essentially T's. We don't make them in the 13/10mm (3/8" x 1/2") because there simply is not enough physical space on that smallest size.

I would be happy to make extensions...what sizes..or I guess lengths is more correct... would you recommend?


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## Deedaz

I think a 25-30mm extension would be perfect to help with fan clearance. The sizes range from about 12-80mm but I would think the 25-30 would be most common.


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## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think a 25-30mm extension would be perfect to help with fan clearance. The sizes range from about 12-80mm but I would think the 25-30 would be most common.


Yeah...that is likely the most common place they are used. Probably 30mm just to be safe.


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## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yeah...that is likely the most common place they are used. Probably 30mm just to be safe.


Awesome









You guys has to count with one thing. People who buy Monsoon fittings (also Bitspower aswell) only buys them 'cause they are extremely good looking.

And people who buys them usually don't do the "usual" builds. They make some extremely customized builds.

So as he earlier said extensions from 10-80mm would be great!

Right now I am doing a super customisation from a Itx case, it's 8500usd project there I spent almost all the money on the design and look. So right now some shiny Monsoon green could be handy









Trying to use as many Monsoon green fittings as I can though I LOVE THEM





















Sadly I have to use other brands for situations there Monsoon's doesn't fit









I think I got some awesome ideas how you could improve your fittings







I can send you a PM when I get time to write everything down









So nice to talk to you, it's amazing we can get this contact with you, other companies don't give a f#ck about us


----------



## Mad Monk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It uses our "standard" pump head design--the same one used in all of our bay reservoirs (which have been reviewed by Martin and others) so performance is slightly better than a stock D5--more than up to the job IOW. If your interest is based 100% on performance numbers and getting one or two percent more flow on a test bench is what motivates you--and there is nothing wrong with that of course--then there are a few other choices you would be happier with. This product is aimed more at guys who want solid performance AND a better design aesthetic.. I am not even sure who is still doing independent testing these days since Martin retired. If you know of somebody trustworthy in the community I would be happy to send out a sample.


BoxGods,

Good day to you.

@fast_fate Has been doing a lot of testing and has set up an impressive test rig. http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/0_50

Not sure if he can or would be interested in testing pump tops. I hope he will test your pump tops. If not there are a few others posting to that thread with quality testing set ups.

Cheers,


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Monk*
> 
> BoxGods,
> 
> Good day to you.
> 
> @fast_fate Has been doing a lot of testing and has set up an impressive test rig. http://www.overclock.net/t/1501978/ocn-community-water-cooling-test-thread/0_50
> 
> Not sure if he can or would be interested in testing pump tops. I hope he will test your pump tops. If not there are a few others posting to that thread with quality testing set ups.
> 
> Cheers,


I have already been contacted by a few guys for testing. Will get samples out to them as soon as I have a bit of breathing room.


----------



## eucalyptus

I'm thinking of to delete my order for FrozenQ since they can't deliver. And now I am looking for options, and I am mostly interested in Monsoon.

It has been days, and weeks now, when can we see them reach the stores? I am a bit in a hurry, my project is already delayed!


----------



## xerythul

I have had nothing but the best experiences with monsoon fittings up to this point and am really looking forward to this new modular system. I have a build in progress and this is going to allow me the flexibility to fit the sff space and still look amazing. I cant wait!


----------



## Ceadderman

Hmmmm may be replacing my fQ Res for this build.

One question though just because assumptions can come back to haunt you...

No Aluminum will ever be in contact with the coolant flow correct?









I assume that won't be an issue but...

In the case of your Mandrel kit. A change which I really would like to see is to the cutting jig. 2 holes countersunk into the tube channel would go a long way to stabilizing the jig and keeping cuts clean. I have the kit and the jigs are awesome. However the rest of the kit could be, well simply better. Not a fan of the benders rulers. My old eyes have a hard time picking out the correct marks. So I have shelved them, and simply line the correct mandrel for the bend with the fitting run I am working and that gives me a good understanding of where my bend needs to be. It is beneficial for short runs specifically. My MB outlet to CPU inlet was a real wench to work before I did that. Now that PPCs has the PETG in stock, I get to do it all over again. I guess what I would like to see in the future is the rules being aluminum instead of clear and a mid hash mark for the 5 increment. Also it does not take long to take the markings off one of these rules. Simply for no other reason than conserving time by keeping them connected with the connectors included and adjusting them. The wing nuts are an okay idea but I think a larger flat knob would be better. I realize that your intent was to keep the costs down for your customers while supplying them quality bending experience. But in my mind a "Pro Kit" should be just that. I love my kit, don't get me wrong, but I would gladly have paid more if the changes I've mentioned were already in the box.

I was so impressed with the quality of the mandrels, PPCS is gonna get me 4 more of the 360s and Monsoon will have at least one Representative(likely more lol) at PDXLan in November.

I will have White PETG hardline and Economy fittings in my build as well as a leetle surprise because the color fits my build.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I'm thinking of to delete my order for FrozenQ since they can't deliver. And now I am looking for options, and I am mostly interested in Monsoon.
> 
> It has been days, and weeks now, when can we see them reach the stores? I am a bit in a hurry, my project is already delayed!


Everything is actually done and ready to go...the hold up is me getting the videos done and order forms for re-sellers out...so not long now.


----------



## VSG




----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hmmmm may be replacing my fQ Res for this build.
> 
> One question though just because assumptions can come back to haunt you...
> 
> No Aluminum will ever be in contact with the coolant flow correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume that won't be an issue but...
> 
> In the case of your Mandrel kit. A change which I really would like to see is to the cutting jig. 2 holes countersunk into the tube channel would go a long way to stabilizing the jig and keeping cuts clean. I have the kit and the jigs are awesome. However the rest of the kit could be, well simply better. Not a fan of the benders rulers. My old eyes have a hard time picking out the correct marks. So I have shelved them, and simply line the correct mandrel for the bend with the fitting run I am working and that gives me a good understanding of where my bend needs to be. It is beneficial for short runs specifically. My MB outlet to CPU inlet was a real wench to work before I did that. Now that PPCs has the PETG in stock, I get to do it all over again. I guess what I would like to see in the future is the rules being aluminum instead of clear and a mid hash mark for the 5 increment. Also it does not take long to take the markings off one of these rules. Simply for no other reason than conserving time by keeping them connected with the connectors included and adjusting them. The wing nuts are an okay idea but I think a larger flat knob would be better. I realize that your intent was to keep the costs down for your customers while supplying them quality bending experience. But in my mind a "Pro Kit" should be just that. I love my kit, don't get me wrong, but I would gladly have paid more if the changes I've mentioned were already in the box.
> 
> I was so impressed with the quality of the mandrels, PPCS is gonna get me 4 more of the 360s and Monsoon will have at least one Representative(likely more lol) at PDXLan in November.
> 
> I will have White PETG hardline and Economy fittings in my build as well as a leetle surprise because the color fits my build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No aluminum in contact with the water. The reservoir tubes are acrylic, the molded ends and couplers are reinforced nylon. Tension rods do not contact the water but are marine grade stainless anyway. All screws are marine grade stainless--again no contact anyway. The only aluminum parts are things like the mounts and motor tube cover--non contact parts.

On the measuring kit rules. As you mentioned the primary concern was keeping the price of the tool kits manageable--especially for tools most builders will use 2 or 3 times at most. There were other considerations in going with acrylic for the rules over aluminum or stainless however. Being clear helps line things up inside the case and because the rules are typically use once everything is installed space can be a bit tight--with a metal rule there is a chance to scratch surfaces inside the case--the one I was most worried about is a trace on a board. Lastly...some builds have weird layouts and might require you to intentionally break one of the rules to get everything lined up for your measurement--something I wouldn't be able to bring myself to do with a nicer more expensive steel rule but wouldn't hesitate to do with inexpensive plastic parts.

We could have etched the mm marks on instead of silk screening, (would have been a little less expensive too) but I also have old eyes as well and the laser etching is just too hard to see.

I also agree on knobs vs thumb nuts being easier...just not 5 x the cost easier. All of your comments are valid, (and appreciated)...end of the day I just had to balance quality with cost on very specialized "short use" tools.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thank you for a dressing this BG.It's much appreciated.

Countersunk mounting points in the cutting jig? Good idea? Yay or Nay?









~Ceadder drink:


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Everything is actually done and ready to go...the hold up is me getting the videos done and order forms for re-sellers out...so not long now.


I am sorry for asking to many stupid questions.

But I am kind a frustrated because of my delay in the project
















Can I except caseking.de have them this week? Absolute latest, my deadline for order is 2 September.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Thank you for a dressing this BG.It's much appreciated.
> 
> Countersunk mounting points in the cutting jig? Good idea? Yay or Nay?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder drink:


I knew there was one I forgot--sorry. It is the obvious choice of course and the original design had tabs on either end for screws but this made the part quite $$$ because of all the extra material--about 24mm of extra length--most of which ended up on the shop floor after being machined off. The next iteration had counter bore holes in the body of the miter box itself but we were unable to figure out a way to machine a bevel onto the bore hole where it intersects the half round of the "trough" the tube rests in--the geometry of that intersection gets quite interesting--especially when you consider all the cutting bits used are rotary. Not having a good bevel there may not seem like a big deal but it prevents scratching the tube.

Murphy's law dictates that the least careful customer who scratches the crap out of his tube will be the guy who posts in every single forum absolutely certain that it was the tools fault. I could show you pictures customers have sent in where they have driven the saw about 25 degrees out of the miter slot, cut the miter box clean in half, jammed and snapped the saw blade...stuff you just would not believe. They all think it is the tools fault and want a replacement. If I could be sure everyone watched the how to video and wrapped the tube in blue painters tape before putting it into the miter box as shown...different story.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am sorry for asking to many stupid questions.
> 
> But I am kind a frustrated because of my delay in the project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I except caseking.de have them this week? Absolute latest, my deadline for order is 2 September.


Sorry but no.


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha yeah I bit my miter box with the saw. So I know full well about that issue. In my defense the blade took on a bit of a warp so it quite honestly couldn't be avoided while trying to keep the cut straight and those blades are hella sharp. I barely felt a difference going into the box. I looked up for a second to answer a question and when I looked down discovered fun things happening. I plan on using my Dremel to route a sign that says "Poppa's workin, go bug Momma." and plan to add a battery powered colored LED to get the little man's attention. He's 2mos so it'll be a little bit.









I use a little trick to avoid scratching my tubing. Since am using 5/8" OD tubing the jig is slightly larger for my needs. Two strip of Frog Tape solved that. Maybe still doing the countersunk holes can still be done with notification? Probably not. There aren't too many critical thinking mechanically inclined people left in the world it seems.









~Ceadder


----------



## coltonneil

Any word on PerformancePCs availability? Looking to pick up a dozen free center hardlines fittings and some 90° rotaries with some deep red PETG and this would tie in very well, I love that monsoon color coordinates everything. Never used monsoon but I'm pretty much sold.


----------



## solidshark91493

Woah, xD I havent been around because Ive been super busy with work. This post gained some steam finally. Glad to see that Gene








Super excited for this.


----------



## Dave6531

Whats the height for the horizontal unit need to check for clearance.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coltonneil*
> 
> Any word on PerformancePCs availability? Looking to pick up a dozen free center hardlines fittings and some 90° rotaries with some deep red PETG and this would tie in very well, I love that monsoon color coordinates everything. Never used monsoon but I'm pretty much sold.


Parts are packaged and ready to ship out. I am going as fast as I can to get the how to videos done. PPCS should have inventory in hopefully 14 to 20 days.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Whats the height for the horizontal unit need to check for clearance.


There is no "specific height" as this is a modular system meaning you can build exactly the configuration you want/need for your project. I will be listing dimensions for all the parts so you can determine the height for your intended configuration.


----------



## coltonneil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Parts are packaged and ready to ship out. I am going as fast as I can to get the how to videos done. PPCS should have inventory in hopefully 14 to 20 days.


Thanks for the quick response, have you ever considered selling them direct? Or would that be to much work? Just curious given the rise of online E-Commerce you can set up a store in like an hour on most website builder like squarespace but I guess maintaining the store may prove another challenge.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Parts are packaged and ready to ship out. I am going as fast as I can to get the how to videos done. PPCS should have inventory in hopefully 14 to 20 days.
> There is no "specific height" as this is a modular system meaning you can build exactly the configuration you want/need for your project. I will be listing dimensions for all the parts so you can determine the height for your intended configuration.


Sounds good was looking for height from base of mounting bracket to highest point on res when mounted horizontal. Plan is to mount it on top of acrylic under the graphics card just need to know if i can with my clearances


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coltonneil*
> 
> Thanks for the quick response, have you ever considered selling them direct? Or would that be to much work? Just curious given the rise of online E-Commerce you can set up a store in like an hour on most website builder like squarespace but I guess maintaining the store may prove another challenge.


As a small company--a really small company--we don't really have the resources to sell direct. I love design and manufacturing and am reasonably good at it...running a store not so much =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Sounds good was looking for height from base of mounting bracket to highest point on res when mounted horizontal. Plan is to mount it on top of acrylic under the graphics card just need to know if i can with my clearances


There are thee mounts--12mm, 25mm, and 50mm, (1/2", 1", and 2"). Additionally, if you use the fill / drain port end cap as a mount you can essentially mount your reservoir anywhere you want...so plenty of options for mounting. As soon as I get the videos done it will be a lot easier to grasp "at a glance".


----------



## Dave6531

Hey if possible can I get the measurement from the the base to the highest point so for example on xspc tube reservoir from base to highest point it is 94mm. Trying to see if things will work properly in my build since still waiting patiently for these. Just trying to figure height for horizontal layout I'm sure I will have to use the lower profile base with the reservoir.

Example photo


----------



## eucalyptus

Well I am sorry I hade to go for XSPC reservoirs, I bought 4 pieces 170mm reservoirs.

But I can glade you with I also bought 48 Monsoon Green fittings


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave6531*
> 
> Hey if possible can I get the measurement from the the base to the highest point so for example on xspc tube reservoir from base to highest point it is 94mm. Trying to see if things will work properly in my build since still waiting patiently for these. Just trying to figure height for horizontal layout I'm sure I will have to use the lower profile base with the reservoir.
> 
> Example photo


I can't really give you an exact height because this is a modular reservoir system. You can pick the components and tube length you want so it will vary from builder to builder based on the components they chose. The height for every part will be listed so you can determine how tall the configuration you want is and adjust as needed. I can tell you that the shortest configuration you can build is about 100mm or 4" and the longest is as tall as you want pretty much. I know it is frustrating guys but I am almost there on the product videos so hang tight.

If you look at the pictures in the first post of this thread it might be a little more clear.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Well I am sorry I hade to go for XSPC reservoirs, I bought 4 pieces 170mm reservoirs.
> 
> But I can glade you with I also bought 48 Monsoon Green fittings


Woot for going Green!


----------



## Dave6531

Its not the length im concerned about its the width. When in horizontal position.


----------



## BoxGods

Not sure how I misread your post / question so badly...sorry about that--senior moment I guess.

The pump width is 77 mm and the mounts come in 12, 25, and 50mm. So "Low Profile" would be 89 mm.


----------



## Dave6531

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not sure how I misread your post / question so badly...sorry about that--senior moment I guess.
> 
> The pump width is 77 mm and the mounts come in 12, 25, and 50mm. So "Low Profile" would be 89 mm.


Haha I guess I could have just put in "what is the width" of the tube res with low profile mount. Thanks though, kind of worried might be to wide its quite a bit wider than some of the others but would match my build design nicely.

Any eta on video or additional info?


----------



## BoxGods

I have cleared everything else off my plate (as much as possible) so I can focus on the videos. Will be off to the shop in a few hours. Should have most of the raw video shot today and tomorrow and start hacking it together on Saturday. I suck at video editing so no idea how long that will take but hopefully Sunday or Monday.

As for the width--your drawing is showing that model at 82.64 mm and mine is only 77 mm at its widest point, (sans mounts) so it *should* be OK I would think.


----------



## xerythul

BoxGods, thanks for taking the time to be so attentive in this thread, it makes me happy as hell I went with you guys years ago as my first fitting supplier of choice and haven't looked back. I'm so anxious for these to get released so I can get some purple and white kit for a project I'm working on. I've seen a lot of promo shots of your guys' other main colors, but do you have any of the purple stuff? Thanks!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> BoxGods, thanks for taking the time to be so attentive in this thread, it makes me happy as hell I went with you guys years ago as my first fitting supplier of choice and haven't looked back. I'm so anxious for these to get released so I can get some purple and white kit for a project I'm working on. I've seen a lot of promo shots of your guys' other main colors, but do you have any of the purple stuff? Thanks!


I have a hard time getting resellers to take inventory on the "less popular" colors. Not blaming them as it makes their life easier if everyone would just stick to black, blue, and red. We have not run a batch of these through in purple yet. If your build schedule has enough time I can see about getting you purple parts.


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have a hard time getting resellers to take inventory on the "less popular" colors. Not blaming them as it makes their life easier if everyone would just stick to black, blue, and red. We have not run a batch of these through in purple yet. If your build schedule has enough time I can see about getting you purple parts.


I totally understand, and the schedule is only dictated by the relevance of the hardware I'm putting in it. I'm building an mATX around the new evga micro2, but how long my gtx 980 sli setup and 5930k will stay near the top-end of hardware remains to be seen!

tl;dr yes I will wait for some purple because you make amazing products


----------



## BoxGods

OK, shoot me an email with a parts list once you see the videos etc. and I will sneak some purple parts in on the next production run.


----------



## xerythul

Praise be to the god of boxes!
Thanks, you rock :-D


----------



## BoxGods

Got a lot done on the videos today...including scratching number 247 off my bucket list: Use the term "Missionary Position" in an official product video =)

Still have some of the how too stuff to cover tomorrow.


----------



## Ceadderman

Link?









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Still have the editing to do...trying to figure out how to speed up the video for the repetitive parts right now...like show how to install the first rod...then speed it up for the next 5 sort of thing.

Almost there.


----------



## VSG

Aaaand that's why I am sticking to written articles.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Still have the editing to do...trying to figure out how to speed up the video for the repetitive parts right now...like show how to install the first rod...then speed it up for the next 5 sort of thing.
> 
> Almost there.


Just install first two rods and cut to the next bit.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Not sure if this will work...will get it on YouTube as soon as I figure out how. It is also pretty long at 38 minutes...but once it gets going there is a lot of information and should give you guys a good overview of the new modular reservoir system. Will have the how to videos on assembly up soon--I am more comfortable with those as it is more building and less talking =)

http://geno.boxgods.com/mmrs_overview_sd_youtube.mp4


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not sure if this will work...will get it on YouTube as soon as I figure out how. It is also pretty long at 38 minutes...but once it gets going there is a lot of information and should give you guys a good overview of the new modular reservoir system. Will have the how to videos on assembly up soon--I am more comfortable with those as it is more building and less talking =)
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/mmrs_overview_sd_youtube.mp4


You need an attractive assistant to do the presentation and talking for you mate!
Like EK is doing with miss Slovenia









At least, that is their excuse for having her around the office.


----------



## BoxGods

My attractive assistant was busy under the table...I can't get under there to plug in that dammed light...and it is the only plug nearby =)


----------



## Jakusonfire

Milk just came out my nose


----------



## xerythul

Thanks for sharing your rough-cut with us, Box. I'm so damn excited for these things to get released already.


----------



## zerone

Thanks for sharing the video. Any info on when these will be available for purchase?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Thanks for sharing your rough-cut with us, Box. I'm so damn excited for these things to get released already.


Rough cut...? That was it...the only cut =)

Working on the how to assembly videos now.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Thanks for sharing the video. Any info on when these will be available for purchase?


If all goes to plan the first US re-seller--Performance--should have them on their site between the 25th and 30th.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Thanks for sharing the video. Any info on when these will be available for purchase?
> 
> 
> 
> If all goes to plan the first US re-seller--Performance--should have them on their site between the 25th and 30th.
Click to expand...











Although MP is horizontal not vertical.









Less than two months for my deadline. Hope I can get one of these in time.

Other than MP, I think that rough cut holds up pretty well.









~Ceadder


----------



## MrMD

These look great ,been wanting to get a visible tube res for my rig.Trying to figure out how to possibly mount one of these and still keep a pretty clean build(Got my pump/res in the back chamber of my Air 540 atm)

Thinking maybe getting a midplate from Coldzero to cover the bottom HDD bays and mount one of these in a pump res combination horizontally to that, feeding straight into my gpu from the pump with the front rad feeding into the the opposite end of the res.

Thoughts?


----------



## xerythul

Sounds amazing, and that is why this product is so game-changing. I don't even need to be able to picture your funky set-up to know it's going to be just like mine, weird, personalized, and youre having a hard time finding a res that does more than just "work". Watch the video Box posted for us and it will give you a clear idea just how modular the whole system is...

Side-note....Box, do you have any specs available for diameter of res tube, end caps, etc, spec sheets would be grrrrrreeatt.


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Watch the video Box posted for us and it will give you a clear idea just how modular the whole system is...
> .


I did









problem with wanting an a res in the front of the 540 is havin one with out everything looking a bit messy or cramped.All the free space is on the bottom at the HDD bays.The modular design and particular the mounting mechanisms just seem Perfect for utilizing the space and being able to get a nice tube res in the front









Best of all it appears to be pretty simple to do.All i would need is the midplate (£10) and the modular bits to make a D5 mount res,would only have to be a relatively simple config aswell.Looking foward to seeing the Uk pricing


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey Box, just had an idea for dual PSU openings for those of us with that ability lacking front 5.25" bays(standard or modded fwr) how about a PSU mounting adapter to fit a bay into the empty space?

It would be great for me since I flipped the back and MBtray of my 932 and would give me a place to mount a shallow bay Res which I could use to route my loop in a clean spot that's never been done like that before and would allow use of the back of the case for a flow meter also.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Sounds amazing, and that is why this product is so game-changing. I don't even need to be able to picture your funky set-up to know it's going to be just like mine, weird, personalized, and youre having a hard time finding a res that does more than just "work". Watch the video Box posted for us and it will give you a clear idea just how modular the whole system is...
> 
> Side-note....Box, do you have any specs available for diameter of res tube, end caps, etc, spec sheets would be grrrrrreeatt.


I will have very detailed 2D with dimensions (as always) for resellers to post on the product pages. I will also try to get some sketch up models for those that like to tinker in 3D spacee prior to building.

Tube diameter is 60mm and the cap OD is 77mm I believe.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey Box, just had an idea for dual PSU openings for those of us with that ability lacking front 5.25" bays(standard or modded fwr) how about a PSU mounting adapter to fit a bay into the empty space?
> 
> It would be great for me since I flipped the back and MBtray of my 932 and would give me a place to mount a shallow bay Res which I could use to route my loop in a clean spot that's never been done like that before and would allow use of the back of the case for a flow meter also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That is actually a pretty cool idea...can you get me enough "rough" dimensions to work up some models for us to have a look at? I don't have a dual PSU case handy. The modular bay reservoirs would lend themselves quite nicely to this I think...


----------



## Radnad

Just saw the video, awesome, awesome, awesome! Can't wait till the stuff hits the ecommerce shelves.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Sounds amazing, and that is why this product is so game-changing. I don't even need to be able to picture your funky set-up to know it's going to be just like mine, weird, personalized, and youre having a hard time finding a res that does more than just "work". Watch the video Box posted for us and it will give you a clear idea just how modular the whole system is...
> 
> Side-note....Box, do you have any specs available for diameter of res tube, end caps, etc, spec sheets would be grrrrrreeatt.
> 
> 
> 
> I will have very detailed 2D with dimensions (as always) for resellers to post on the product pages. I will also try to get some sketch up models for those that like to tinker in 3D spacee prior to building.
> 
> Tube diameter is 60mm and the cap OD is 77mm I believe.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey Box, just had an idea for dual PSU openings for those of us with that ability lacking front 5.25" bays(standard or modded fwr) how about a PSU mounting adapter to fit a bay into the empty space?
> 
> It would be great for me since I flipped the back and MBtray of my 932 and would give me a place to mount a shallow bay Res which I could use to route my loop in a clean spot that's never been done like that before and would allow use of the back of the case for a flow meter also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is actually a pretty cool idea...can you get me enough "rough" dimensions to work up some models for us to have a look at? I don't have a dual PSU case handy. The modular bay reservoirs would lend themselves quite nicely to this I think...
Click to expand...

I will have that info for you later in the day. There isn't much room in my case since one of my 360s mounts in the top, but Llian Li has a PSU adapter to make longer PSU fit standard PSU locations. So this is kinda what I am thinking about but cut to fit a Bay Res it would be awesome. Here is a direct link to the Llian Li product @ ppcs site.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/lian-li-power-supply-bracket-extender-for-chassis-black.html#Details

Pretty sure that the side to side dimension of the opening is around 6" but since I'm not at home, I will get that at Lunch and report the side to side and top to bottom dimensions of the opening. It's standard ATX though.









Edit... Mount measurements Center to Center are 3.25"x6" HxW for the PSU opening. So maybe something that can either be modded in? I'm reasonably sure that 5.25" slots are larger than 1.625" in height althought I could be wrong as I didn't have time to search for one of my covers which I won't be using anymore. I can look tonite.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Not finding it at PPCS...I think you forgot the linky.


----------



## Ceadderman

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not finding it at PPCS...I think you forgot the linky.


I included it and the Pic is clickable but for some reason it won't take you there...

so re-linked.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/lian-li-power-supply-bracket-extender-for-chassis-black.html









Hope this helps clarify my thought somewhat.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Ah I understand now. I had seen it going the other way (into the case) which was a bit confusing. So where do you see the reservoir going? IF it filled a box similar to that one outside the case and behind the PSU...wouldn't it block the rear PSU fan?


----------



## Ceadderman

Not for behind a PSU but to make use of the 2ndary opening which would not get used by PSU since that spot is filled with a 360. Well most of that spot anyway. So something large enough to fit a Bay Res would be perfect and clean things up.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not for behind a PSU but to make use of the 2ndary opening which would not get used by PSU since that spot is filled with a 360. Well most of that spot anyway. So something large enough to fit a Bay Res would be perfect and clean things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Can you email me to go over the details?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not for behind a PSU but to make use of the 2ndary opening which would not get used by PSU since that spot is filled with a 360. Well most of that spot anyway. So something large enough to fit a Bay Res would be perfect and clean things up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can you email me to go over the details?
Click to expand...

Will do. Soon as I can get round a computer. My Gmail as nice as it is, is ridiculous on my Android smartphone.









~Ceadder


----------



## Undesirable

Will you be able to mount a tube vertically, using the "grasshopper" mounts to attach it to the floor of a case with enough room to access the bottom of the pump to change a D5 Vario's speed?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undesirable*
> 
> Will you be able to mount a tube vertically, using the "grasshopper" mounts to attach it to the floor of a case with enough room to access the bottom of the pump to change a D5 Vario's speed?


Not sure I understand the question...mounting vertically would imply any surface other then the top or bottom of the case. If you meant mount it to one of the vertical surfaces of a case--front/back/left or right side with enough space between the end of the pump and the bottom of the case...that would depend on how long of a reservoir you chose and how how you mounted it but typically the answer would be yes.


----------



## BoxGods

Order Work Sheet went out to Performance PC's today. A day or two for them to order, about 8 days to package and air freight it, a day or two for them to get it all onto their site...figure about Monday October 5th to be on the safe side. Maybe a day or three sooner if at all possible.

Whew.


----------



## xerythul

So excited!


----------



## Ceadderman

Cannot wait. Pushing back my attendance of PDXLan to July. So I think I know what my new Reservoir will be.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

My next trip to PDX will most likely be PDXAGE. Have a new deck box coming out =)


----------



## Undesirable

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not sure I understand the question...mounting vertically would imply any surface other then the top or bottom of the case. If you meant mount it to one of the vertical surfaces of a case--front/back/left or right side with enough space between the end of the pump and the bottom of the case...that would depend on how long of a reservoir you chose and how how you mounted it but typically the answer would be yes.


I meant attach the grasshopper mount to the bottom of the case, have an extension coming out and then attached to the reservoir, as in this poorly-drawn paint image:


----------



## Ceadderman

Build a tripod for it. More stable and if the only mount will look War of the Worlds-ish.









When is PDXAGE btw?

~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undesirable*
> 
> I meant attach the grasshopper mount to the bottom of the case, have an extension coming out and then attached to the reservoir, as in this poorly-drawn paint image:


That is not really how the mount attaches. Including some images below to clarify...the mount is on the stand alone pump but it works the same on the reservoir...


----------



## solidshark91493

Still so stoked this is working so well. Glad this thread helped pick up the news/business for the new stuff









Gene, I bought a caliper set, And will be getting you measurements and I can even make a generic 3D model for you for that stuff if it would help. I MAY be looking to get two.

However, Something Im not sure you can/have the time to help me with, I may start a thread for it. But I will be getting a new mobo, cpu, and ram soon. I want to watercool my whole computer and I have zero watercooling parts in it so far. So I need to figure out what components, and a color scheme. Which will influence all my monsoon parts.

I want to do acrylic tubing, not sure which diameter to go with. Also would love to use these new parts to make a unique build. So open to suggestions. I have a HAF X case from cooler master.

So, something to ponder.


----------



## BoxGods

If it is your first time using Hard Lines I would suggest using our PETG tube over Acrylic. Much easier to work with and a lot more tolerant to reheating and re-bending. The only real drawback is that it does not polish very well so if you scratch it...well just don't scratch it put it that way.

I did up a fairly helpful series of how to videos on bending tube you might want to watch also.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If it is your first time using Hard Lines I would suggest using our PETG tube over Acrylic. Much easier to work with and a lot more tolerant to reheating and re-bending. The only real drawback is that it does not polish very well so if you scratch it...well just don't scratch it put it that way.
> 
> I did up a fairly helpful series of how to videos on bending tube you might want to watch also.


Well can you link me to it? Might get a tube of each to play with and get familiar with them then go from there?


----------



## Ceadderman

If you're in the States, just look up Monsoon Hardline tubing in Performance PCs Web catalog. It should all be PETG iirc.

You will find they have BoxGods vids on their Monsoon hardline product pages.









~Ceadder


----------



## solidshark91493

Delete


----------



## solidshark91493

Thanks buddy








One more question though I thought monsoons WAS acrylic.. Was I incorrect? I wanted monsoon hardline :|
And if I get a piece to test with I want to get the right diameter Ill use in my build. So Im still unsure of which size to use. Id prefer as big as possible.


----------



## Ceadderman

They have both iirc. PPCs just carries PETG now as far as I know but I could be wrong. Last time I looked it was all PETG though.









Still, you will want to make sure to have the correct version of tubing before submitting an order.









~Ceadder


----------



## zerone

Thanks for the updates! These reservoirs are the last pieces I am waiting on to complete my build.

Question, I have a dual bay reservoir with D5 pump cap which I am planning to extend using the tubes that come with the modular system. Will I be able to reuse the same D5 pump cap from the bay reservoir or do need to get new ones?

I have another question regarding Monsoon Hardline fittings though if that's ok. This would be my first build with hardline tubing and I bought some Monsoon PETG tubing with hardline compression fittings that need the lock collar to be glued on to the tube. I was wondering if it possible to buy some spare lock collars for 1/2x5/8 tubing somewhere in case I mess up some cuts or bends? I cant find these in stock on PPCS website.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Thanks for the updates! These reservoirs are the last pieces I am waiting on to complete my build.
> 
> Question, I have a dual bay reservoir with D5 pump cap which I am planning to extend using the tubes that come with the modular system. Will I be able to reuse the same D5 pump cap from the bay reservoir or do need to get new ones?
> 
> I have another question regarding Monsoon Hardline fittings though if that's ok. This would be my first build with hardline tubing and I bought some Monsoon PETG tubing with hardline compression fittings that need the lock collar to be glued on to the tube. I was wondering if it possible to buy some spare lock collars for 1/2x5/8 tubing somewhere in case I mess up some cuts or bends? I cant find these in stock on PPCS website.


If I understand the first question you already own an M2 D5P reservoir and you want to convert it so that you can add a tube reservoir to the back of it, and you want to mount a D5 to the end of that tube reservoir.

1. You will need to swap the back plate with part # *M2-BACK-TUBE*.
2. Select the length and color of tube you want.
3. Get the same length of tension rods--if you choose a 150mm long reservoir tube you would get 150mm tension rods as an example--in whatever color you want.
4. To attach your D5 to the reservoir tube you will need part # *MMRS-TRP*

The machined aluminum motor mounting tube and machined aluminum motor mounting tube cover you already have will work so no need to get those. I will have a how to video that covers converting your current M2 reservoir over up shortly--pretty straight forward though.

Any re-seller that sells our Hard Line Tube is required to also carry replacement lock collars. Some of them have not bothered to change their product write up and still list Acrylic lock collars even though we made the switch to poly carbonate collars something like 8 months ago.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-spare-acrylic-lock-collar-6-pack-5-8-od-16mm.html


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Thanks buddy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One more question though I thought monsoons WAS acrylic.. Was I incorrect? I wanted monsoon hardline :|
> And if I get a piece to test with I want to get the right diameter Ill use in my build. So Im still unsure of which size to use. Id prefer as big as possible.


We sell both types--Acrylic and PETG. If I had my way I would also discontinue the acrylic as it simply requires more skill to use correctly--and if you don't do things correctly it is very unforgiving. The problem is that for more experienced builders it is more versatile. If this is your first build or you do not plan on doing anything beyond basic tube runs I always recommend PETG. If your using our Hard Line fittings the poly carbonate lock collars work with both types of tube. They even work with bent copper lines as the UV cure adhesive is pretty amazing.


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If I understand the first question you already own an M2 D5P reservoir and you want to convert it so that you can add a tube reservoir to the back of it, and you want to mount a D5 to the end of that tube reservoir.
> 
> 1. You will need to swap the back plate with part # *M2-BACK-TUBE*.
> 2. Select the length and color of tube you want.
> 3. Get the same length of tension rods--if you choose a 150mm long reservoir tube you would get 150mm tension rods as an example--in whatever color you want.
> 4. To attach your D5 to the reservoir tube you will need part # *MMRS-TRP*
> 
> The machined aluminum motor mounting tube and machined aluminum motor mounting tube cover you already have will work so no need to get those. I will have a how to video that covers converting your current M2 reservoir over up shortly--pretty straight forward though.
> 
> Any re-seller that sells our Hard Line Tube is required to also carry replacement lock collars. Some of them have not bothered to change their product write up and still list Acrylic lock collars even though we made the switch to poly carbonate collars something like 8 months ago.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-spare-acrylic-lock-collar-6-pack-5-8-od-16mm.html


Thanks for confirming!

Regarding the lock collars, I did see that listing but it has been out of stock for a while and thats why I asked if there is somewhere else to buy some spare ones.

Also, I ordered two six packs of hardline compression fittings from PPCS and wondering how do I figure out if the lock collars I got with the fittings are acrylic or polycarbonate?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Thanks for confirming!
> 
> Regarding the lock collars, I did see that listing but it has been out of stock for a while and thats why I asked if there is somewhere else to buy some spare ones.
> 
> Also, I ordered two six packs of hardline compression fittings from PPCS and wondering how do I figure out if the lock collars I got with the fittings are acrylic or polycarbonate?


I admit I didn't look to see the quantity--my bad. Off the top of my head I think they have an order shipping in the next week or so--figure 10 days with transit time.

Any product that uses lock collars--fittings, conversion kits, spare collars, etc.--will have a stamp inside one of the box flaps that says "POLY" or "PC" depending on the space available.


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I admit I didn't look to see the quantity--my bad. Off the top of my head I think they have an order shipping in the next week or so--figure 10 days with transit time.
> 
> Any product that uses lock collars--fittings, conversion kits, spare collars, etc.--will have a stamp inside one of the box flaps that says "POLY" or "PC" depending on the space available.


Thanks again for the info. Will check PPCS.

I do see a PC stamp on both boxes so seems like I have polycarbonate collars.


----------



## BoxGods

I know this will seem weird--and certainly don't do it if you don't have spare collars--but the "step on it vigorously" test will also work if you're just not sure and want to be. Put one on the floor and pretty much stomp on it. If it shatters into lots of little pieces it was acrylic. If it "mushes" or deforms but remains mostly hole...it was Poly carbonate. Again do NOT do this test unless you have spares as either way it will ruin the test subject.


----------



## VSG

lol "step on it" test. Simple but does work as intended


----------



## zerone

Haha, I think I will wait for some spares to be available before I try this test









Are the modular reservoir parts still expected to be available around 10/5? I have two of the series 2 bay reservoirs and I am planning to extend both of them with staggered tubes (longer tube on the bottom reservoir) and D5 end-caps. I hope it turns out as good as I think it would in my mind


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Haha, I think I will wait for some spares to be available before I try this test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are the modular reservoir parts still expected to be available around 10/5? I have two of the series 2 bay reservoirs and I am planning to extend both of them with staggered tubes (longer tube on the bottom reservoir) and D5 end-caps. I hope it turns out as good as I think it would in my mind


I think people are going to find they REALLY like the bay/tube combo as it makes the tube look like it is floating and it puts the reservoir in a fairly optimal location--depending on the case of course.

Yes the order shipped yesterday and is in transit...so looking "on track" for 5 October.


----------



## xerythul

Tomorrow!!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Tomorrow!!


The shipment is supposed to arrive at Performance tomorrow. I seriously doubt that they can get all of these sku's onto their site in a day...it is a LOT of parts. Maybe.

I have had people asking to see what the black reservoir tube looks like and others asking to see the green metal parts...so thought I would kill two birds with one picture. Could just be me...but I think they look BAD A$$ together.


----------



## xerythul

That is outstanding looking. Is the black a solid black or is it semi-opaque? I.e. any light/fluid color penetration?


----------



## BoxGods

solid black


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks badazz. But doesn't a solid color defeat the secondary purpose of visual inspection of the coolant level?









Black and Red will look awesomesauce in my build if I decide on a way to check coolant level. May get a single red hardline for that purpose since I fill mine completely. Anticyclone devices are able to be installed am assuming?









~Ceadder


----------



## Unnatural

I think it would be really useful to have the part list for some reference build, like the renders released earlier!


----------



## xerythul

If i'm not mistaken the official part numbers etc will be made public so to speak once PPCS gets the items up on their site and for sale.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks badazz. But doesn't a solid color defeat the secondary purpose of visual inspection of the coolant level?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black and Red will look awesomesauce in my build if I decide on a way to check coolant level. May get a single red hardline for that purpose since I fill mine completely. Anticyclone devices are able to be installed am assuming?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You can use a transparent color for a fill port reservoir which as the highest point in the loop is a good indicator of fluid level. Also, you could use a 50mm transparent color section at the top of the reservoir...lots of options. Obviously the black is not for everyone or every situation...just nice to have the option.

Anti cyclone can be achieved by feeding inlet water in in the opposite direction via the side facing ports, or with the CCFL light plugs which are almost done.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> If i'm not mistaken the official part numbers etc will be made public so to speak once PPCS gets the items up on their site and for sale.


Correct. Without being able to look at an actual part with the part number it would be pretty confusing. I designed all the parts, created the part numbers, took all the pictures, wrote the descriptions, etc. and I STILL can't always decode the part numbers. MMRS-FDP-RC-RD for example: Monsoon Modular Reservoir System - Fill Drain Port - Round Cap - Red.

Tracking shows a delivery delay. Scheduled for Wednesday =(


----------



## Radnad

well thats about the most common sense part number system i've seen in a long time, should make it easy for us. right now its probably just the mass amount of new ones and the fact that theyre all new. in a year we will probably be rattling those part numbers off like we're speaking fluent klingon!


----------



## CrazyCreator

I hope the parts available in Germany too?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks badazz. But doesn't a solid color defeat the secondary purpose of visual inspection of the coolant level?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Black and Red will look awesomesauce in my build if I decide on a way to check coolant level. May get a single red hardline for that purpose since I fill mine completely. Anticyclone devices are able to be installed am assuming?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a transparent color for a fill port reservoir which as the highest point in the loop is a good indicator of fluid level. Also, you could use a 50mm transparent color section at the top of the reservoir...lots of options. Obviously the black is not for everyone or every situation...just nice to have the option.
> 
> Anti cyclone can be achieved by feeding inlet water in in the opposite direction via the side facing ports, or with the CCFL light plugs which are almost done.
Click to expand...

Yeah that'd be how I would do it for visual inspection of coolant level. I guess I will be going Black and Red Res since my Darkside build had to take a backseat to family/car issues. Just got back from Monroe WA Sunday at 0300am so funds had to go to visiting my Mother in law as her health required a visit for my Wife's birthday.

I'm the gent that is wanting four 360 mandrels from PPCs. Since I had to alter my plans a bit I sadly won't be able to attend PDXLan in November. February was sold out as well. So I will be pushing my appearance back to July. Gives me a lot more time to get my build done and so the little shipping hiccup will not affect me thankfully. Can't wait to get the new Res however. It sort of looks like a Lightsaber that's powered down. I really like what you did there Gino.









Question again. Do I have to purchase with a pump or can I use the D5 vario that I have coming in? EK went to Pump and Accessory combos to simplify their pats list. Did you do something similar or is it whatever you need and full steam ahead?









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Sorry to hear about your Mother in Law.. I have been dealing with a nuisance health issue the last 6 months myself so I know how it can throw your plans for a loop. Nothing life threatening thankfully but convalescing in bed for over 5 months is an unbelievable drag.

We do not package any of the pump tops with pumps so you can use your existing pump. Some of the resellers do offer them as as a combo as a separate SKU.

Sorry for the shipping delay. I always forget Performance is in Florida so I guess the weather is slowing everything down on that coast.


----------



## Ceadderman

Regarding pumps... Kewl.









Yeah, she recently (last year) went through Chemo for throat cancer and beat it. So she's a fighter. Sorry to hear that you went through such an enduring issue yourself. I've been there myself with double pneumonia so I well know about health issues myself. But it's part of the trials of life. Which makes it worth living imho. Can't have the sweet without the sour.









At least I know I will be able to get one of those fantastic Reservoirs you have coming out as soon as PPCs gets them added to their site.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Well Fed Ex is now saying the shipment is still in China...called them--Fed Ex not China--and they say the shipment has actually been delivered to Performance. So I am sure they are going gang busters to get it all up on their site.


----------



## xerythul

Gotta love automated tracking systems, great in concept, frequently flawed in life. Either way hurry up PPCS!


----------



## BoxGods

Actually I have had pretty good luck with FedEx and UPS most of the time...just for some reason anything coming from China and the tracking is wonky if it works at all.

I have that kind of weird feeling you get the day after you finish a hard project that you have obsessed over for a long time. I started the designs for these parts about six months ago...and "suddenly" the first re-seller gets their shipment.

I am going to play CIV all day every day for like a WEEK straight =)


----------



## xerythul

It will all get better once the build pics start rolling in, I have a great feeling about it!


----------



## VVrath

Is there somewhere I could view the dimensions of the end caps/couplers? I'm taking measurements in my case to figure out possible mounting spots. Since they're inset for the tubes to slide into them I'm trying to figure out how much overall reservoir length I'm adding every time I couple two tubes and how much clearance I'll need on each end for the caps.

Also, I know in the video you mention that the tubes are 60 mm diameter, but how much do the caps/couplers add to the diameter of any given res?

Thanks in advance, I'm very excited to get my hands on these parts


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VVrath*
> 
> Is there somewhere I could view the dimensions of the end caps/couplers? I'm taking measurements in my case to figure out possible mounting spots. Since they're inset for the tubes to slide into them I'm trying to figure out how much overall reservoir length I'm adding every time I couple two tubes and how much clearance I'll need on each end for the caps.
> 
> Also, I know in the video you mention that the tubes are 60 mm diameter, but how much do the caps/couplers add to the diameter of any given res?
> 
> Thanks in advance, I'm very excited to get my hands on these parts


Listed Reservoir Tube lengths are nominal and actually include the portion that is embedded into end caps and couplers etc. For example the 100mm tube is actually 105mm but it's installed length is 100mm. Keeps it simple that way. That 100mm tube with two MMRS-EC-ZP from the chart below would give a total reservoir length of 29 + 29 + 100 = 158 I am including a drawing below with all the relevant dimensions you should need. If anything is missing please let me know.

Larger version here.


----------



## VVrath

Thank you very much, my good sir.


----------



## coookiemunster

Hi BoxGods
Couple quick questions, how well do you think it would work to paint the end caps and what kind of paint/primer would you recommend? What prep tips would you use to paint them?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Hi BoxGods
> Couple quick questions, how well do you think it would work to paint the end caps and what kind of paint/primer would you recommend? What prep tips would you use to paint them?


I love this question! Hasn't been available for 5 minutes...how can I MOD it...sounds like me =)

As a plastic they should paint just fine and not require much prep. Unless your using a hard core water proof epoxy paint (which I personally would) don't paint the inside so mask that off as usual--blue painters tape. The surface has already been etch so no need to sand or scuff it--a thorough washing in hot soapy water at the kitchen sink is fine. I would also protect any threads like normal--with a water proof epoxy paint this is less of an issue as they are more durable.

Really they should be pretty straight forward to paint. I would also probably use a white primer coat since your painting over black so the final color coat was brighter.

Let us know how your project turns out for sure.

**EDIT** I got a bit carried away there and was speaking as a modder and forgot I am supposed to be a responsible company owner as well so I should also mention this would obviously void your warranty. So if you screw it up don't try to send it back--sand it off and reshoot that sucker.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I love this question! Hasn't been available for 5 minutes...how can I MOD it...sounds like me =)
> 
> As a plastic they should paint just fine and not require much prep. Unless your using a hard core water proof epoxy paint (which I personally would) don't paint the inside so mask that off as usual--blue painters tape. The surface has already been etch so no need to sand or scuff it--a thorough washing in hot soapy water at the kitchen sink is fine. I would also protect any threads like normal--with a water proof epoxy paint this is less of an issue as they are more durable.
> 
> Really they should be pretty straight forward to paint. I would also probably use a white primer coat since your painting over black so the final color coat was brighter.
> 
> Let us know how your project turns out for sure.
> 
> **EDIT** I got a bit carried away there and was speaking as a modder and forgot I am supposed to be a responsible company owner as well so I should also mention this would obviously void your warranty. So if you screw it up don't try to send it back--sand it off and reshoot that sucker.


Gene,

I don't really know how the world makes all plastic, but I do know for sure almost everything is black.

And I have a question, when you make this plastic in the fabric, why don't make half the batch with some drops of white in the mix so you can get shining snow white plastic instead of black?









EK only sell black, but has white as an option separatley.

So here comes my request list









White plastic in all shapes instead of black.

Extension fittings. all from 5mm up to 100mm, for example 5,10, 15, 20, 25, 35, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80, 90, 100.

And, don't make them with striped or diamond pattern!! Hate this different patterns














I know you have striped patter in the neck of the rotary fitting, don't know why you do it though :/

If you start making extension fittings I could definitely think about a whole loop in just green fittings, would be very cool
















Btw, you are absolutely the best company owner of all water cooling brands! Have never seen anything like this, the owner talking to the customers and community! (well EKWB has a rep, but not cool as you are







)


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I love this question! Hasn't been available for 5 minutes...how can I MOD it...sounds like me =)
> 
> As a plastic they should paint just fine and not require much prep. Unless your using a hard core water proof epoxy paint (which I personally would) don't paint the inside so mask that off as usual--blue painters tape. The surface has already been etch so no need to sand or scuff it--a thorough washing in hot soapy water at the kitchen sink is fine. I would also protect any threads like normal--with a water proof epoxy paint this is less of an issue as they are more durable.
> 
> Really they should be pretty straight forward to paint. I would also probably use a white primer coat since your painting over black so the final color coat was brighter.
> 
> Let us know how your project turns out for sure.
> 
> **EDIT** I got a bit carried away there and was speaking as a modder and forgot I am supposed to be a responsible company owner as well so I should also mention this would obviously void your warranty. So if you screw it up don't try to send it back--sand it off and reshoot that sucker.


Awesome! Thanks! Can't wait to get my hands on. These!!


----------



## BoxGods

The problem with doing the molded parts in other colors is mostly related to what re-seller will buy and carry. It really does not cost any more to mold them in colors and I would be happy to do it...just getting re-sellers to stock them is almost impossible. They want to stock everything in black and will grudgingly take red and blue. I have to nag like an old woman just to get them to take green. To be fair that is what most customers buy. My feeling is that they buy those colors because that is usually the only option/s they have...so who knows?

I will ask some of our resellers how they feel about white molded parts...but my feeling is it will be a hard sell.

Thank you for the kind words also =)

To be fair, I think we can offer a more personal level of service because we are a small company--too much bigger and I don't think I could keep up and still do my other work.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Awesome! Thanks! Can't wait to get my hands on. These!!


I was thinking about the subject of painting these some more and it occurred to me that it shouldn't be TOO hard for me to design a molded silicone "painting kit" that has rubber masks pre molded for the insides and threaded G 1/4 ports. Would likely be less than $10 and would include 2 rubber internals masks, and 5 rubber port masks. Because they are silicone they would be reusable at least 6 - 10 times or more depending on how you treat them.

Thoughts?


----------



## Radnad

How about offering certain colors as custom order only? Maybe charge a little more for it and of course it would have a longer lead time, but that would help the resellers from stocking so many SKUs while still giving end users what they want.


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I was thinking about the subject of painting these some more and it occurred to me that it shouldn't be TOO hard for me to design a molded silicone "painting kit" that has rubber masks pre molded for the insides and threaded G 1/4 ports. Would likely be less than $10 and would include 2 rubber internals masks, and 5 rubber port masks. Because they are silicone they would be reusable at least 6 - 10 times or more depending on how you treat them.
> 
> Thoughts?


I agree that the reason black and red are the best sellers because they are usually the only options. I would certainly be interested I. Other colours (especially white for the current build)

As far as a masking kit, it sounds like a great idea, I would pick one up but I would much rather just get white end caps (or maybe purple for the next build?)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> How about offering certain colors as custom order only? Maybe charge a little more for it and of course it would have a longer lead time, but that would help the resellers from stocking so many SKUs while still giving end users what they want.


Custom order from end users placed with their re-seller? So I mold a few thousand parts in white and have them sitting on the shelf as inventory. I then let resellers know we have white parts available for drop shipping directly from our factory in China, (for EU customers), and from our warehouse in the US for North American customers. The idea would break down right there as no re-seller is interested in drop shipping products, but let's assume I could talk one into it. You order a white part from Performance PC's or Case King and we get an email for the order, drive to the local FedEx to drop it off. You pay the re-seller and eventually they pay us. Only 3,000 parts to go...which is the problem because black will outsell all of the other colors 1,000 to 1.

Black works because it "goes with everything" and black is black is black. When you get into colors people start diverging--they prefer different shades of re or blue IOW. Colors also tend to trend--red is more popular this month...in 3 months it switches to blue...or gold...or green.

I have considered doing color runs and offering them for sale on our web site for those that really want a specific color but I would get stuck with thousands of parts sitting in inventory forever...and I simply can't afford that.

I did my best to address people wanting colors by molding the main body parts in the ever popular goes with everything black, then offering all of the metal parts that fit onto the reservoirs in 10 different accent colors...


----------



## Ceadderman

I rather like the black and while I do agree that white would sell well here on OCN, it's hard to imagine it selling well globally. Cases sell well because most people from every experience level need/require a case. But it scales down quite a bit because the amount of custom loops aren't selling at the same level. Think more along the lines of 1 for every 100 custom builds are custom loops. Then divvy the overall sales with EK and other custom parts manufacturers. The worth just isn't there for that kind of custom manufacturing. While a couple cans of Rustoleum Universal Advanced (my preferred paint for plastics) is less than $20.









~Ceadder


----------



## Rapsky

God what I would do for some of those whites!!


----------



## BoxGods

There ARE white tension rods, plugs, fittings, motor tube covers etc. etc that fit this so you do have some options at least.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> How about offering certain colors as custom order only? Maybe charge a little more for it and of course it would have a longer lead time, but that would help the resellers from stocking so many SKUs while still giving end users what they want.
> 
> 
> 
> Custom order from end users placed with their re-seller? So I mold a few thousand parts in white and have them sitting on the shelf as inventory. I then let resellers know we have white parts available for drop shipping directly from our factory in China, (for EU customers), and from our warehouse in the US for North American customers. The idea would break down right there as no re-seller is interested in drop shipping products, but let's assume I could talk one into it. You order a white part from Performance PC's or Case King and we get an email for the order, drive to the local FedEx to drop it off. You pay the re-seller and eventually they pay us. Only 3,000 parts to go...which is the problem because black will outsell all of the other colors 1,000 to 1.
> 
> Black works because it "goes with everything" and black is black is black. When you get into colors people start diverging--they prefer different shades of re or blue IOW. Colors also tend to trend--red is more popular this month...in 3 months it switches to blue...or gold...or green.
> 
> I have considered doing color runs and offering them for sale on our web site for those that really want a specific color but I would get stuck with thousands of parts sitting in inventory forever...and I simply can't afford that.
> 
> I did my best to address people wanting colors by molding the main body parts in the ever popular goes with everything black, then offering all of the metal parts that fit onto the reservoirs in 10 different accent colors...
Click to expand...

I was thinking more along the lines of on demand manufacturing, but I see your point completely.


----------



## zerone

Any sightings of these parts on PPCS yet?


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. I looked the other day and still no sign.









~Ceadder


----------



## NeeqOne

When will these products be available?


----------



## BoxGods

Should be any day--maybe today--as they have had them a week now. Don't be too hard on PPCS as it is a LOT of parts to enter into inventory and set product up pages up for.


----------



## coookiemunster

Hey, just a noob question here... if a person was using the MMRS-SP-ZP at the bottom of the res for the inlet / outlet feeding a D5 is there any concern over vortex being created in the res or the D5 just sucking bubbles? I see that a lot of other res systems use a vortex disruption plate or a tube that pushes the returning water away from the pump inlet and I am just wondering if this could be an issue?

also, any word from PPC's as to when they will have them up on the site?


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> also, any word from PPC's as to when they will have them up on the site?


I emailed PPCs on Monday and they said they will launch on Wednesday, but no sign yet.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Hey, just a noob question here... if a person was using the MMRS-SP-ZP at the bottom of the res for the inlet / outlet feeding a D5 is there any concern over vortex being created in the res or the D5 just sucking bubbles? I see that a lot of other res systems use a vortex disruption plate or a tube that pushes the returning water away from the pump inlet and I am just wondering if this could be an issue?
> 
> also, any word from PPC's as to when they will have them up on the site?


There are several ways to avoid a vortex (if you want to) with this system. You can use the side facing ports to feed incoming water in opposite the vortex direction and since the incoming and outgoing rotational forces are equal--or very nearly so--they cancel each other out.

The screen grab below might make it a bit clearer. That is a coupler but the side port end caps have the same configuration. My personal feeling--and it is based solely on observation and "gut feeling" --is that this energy neutral approach is more efficient for the pump than a plate as the pump is not expending energy against the plate. If you think about it, the side port is returning only slightly less force to the vortex than the pump originally expended to propel the water in the first place so the pump is not fighting the excessive drag that is imposed by a plate.



Another alternative is to use one or more of our CCFL plugs which put 6mm OD tubes directly into the reservoir and create a dampening force just like the plate would--not as optimal as the method mentioned above as you have the same sort of drawback as the plate method...but at least you are getting light from the tubes whereas a plate does pretty much nothing except put a load on the pump.

If users are finding either of those methods don't always suite their particular build I am not opposed to adding a modular plate part of some sort, but I would want it to be adjustable in some way so it could be tuned as close to energy neutral as possible for each loop configuration. it would also have to look bad ass =)

This is kind of the joy of a modular system IMO as it is fairly close to open source. I know you guys will find all sorts of ways to use these reservoirs that I never envisioned and because every component has been broken down to its smallest parts we can implement changes and add new parts pretty easily and quickly. I don't really see there ever being a version two of this product because it will *always* be growing and adding new capabilities.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> I emailed PPCs on Monday and they said they will launch on Wednesday, but no sign yet.


The delay is on me you guys and I apologize for it. We discovered that there was a packaging error on the molded parts--the large O ring that creates the seal on the reservoir tube was accidentally left out. Obviously that was bad so I had to contact PPCS and ask them to hold off on launching until we got it resolved. We packaged the O rings in an individual zippy bag and shipped them by next day air. The plan is rather than opening each package to add the missing O ring--and risk loosing a screw or something--to staple the individually packaged O ring to the original package. PPCS has been totally great about this and is getting it done ASAP.

The tracking says they *should* have the big bag of O rings by Monday the 19th so hopefully that is the day you can order.

Sorry again guys =(


----------



## Ceadderman

Things happen Gino. So long as Murphy has his grubby mitts involved, his law still applies. No worries. Just glad things can move forward in short order.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah better a little late than everyone being short an O ring...what a mess that would have been. Best laid plans and all that...


----------



## Unnatural

I'm using this delay to clear my mind about how I want my loop








Since I'm planning to have two D5 pumps in series, will it be possible to build a single reservoir to hold them both? The dual pump sample render on first post seems to be a parallel configuration


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> I'm using this delay to clear my mind about how I want my loop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I'm planning to have two D5 pumps in series, will it be possible to build a single reservoir to hold them both? The dual pump sample render on first post seems to be a parallel configuration


Hmm...I guess it would but maybe not in a single tube...and it would possible require some external plumbing...which might actually look pretty cool. I have an acrylic "mock case" let me tinker with a few configurations so see what would look cool.

*EDIT* Would you want both to be vertical...or both horizontal...or one vertical and one horizontal? A lot of options depending on your space and build theme.


----------



## Unnatural

Very nice, thanks!


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The delay is on me you guys and I apologize for it. We discovered that there was a packaging error on the molded parts--the large O ring that creates the seal on the reservoir tube was accidentally left out. Obviously that was bad so I had to contact PPCS and ask them to hold off on launching until we got it resolved. We packaged the O rings in an individual zippy bag and shipped them by next day air. The plan is rather than opening each package to add the missing O ring--and risk loosing a screw or something--to staple the individually packaged O ring to the original package. PPCS has been totally great about this and is getting it done ASAP.
> 
> The tracking says they *should* have the big bag of O rings by Monday the 19th so hopefully that is the day you can order.
> 
> Sorry again guys =(


No big deal. Thanks for keeping us updated!


----------



## NeeqOne

@BoxGods, so I am thinking of going for a multiport top, 150mm reservoir and D5 pump body with a D5. Is this a possibilty?


----------



## coookiemunster

.........They're HERE!!!








Race you to PPCs!


----------



## xerythul

Woo look at em all, so beautiful!


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> .........They're HERE!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Race you to PPCs!


Can you share the link to the items on PPCs?


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Can you share the link to the items on PPCs?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/latest/brand--monsoon/


----------



## xerythul

http://www.performance-pcs.com/latest?limit=90&is_ajax=1&p=1

Try that out, if it doesn't work though just go to their home page, and scroll down a tiny bit into their "New Products" section.


----------



## Ceadderman

Look in their new products section. They don't yet have completed Reservoirs listed but you will find the parts there.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Can you share the link to the items on PPCs?
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/latest/brand--monsoon/
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/latest?limit=90&is_ajax=1&p=1
> 
> Try that out, if it doesn't work though just go to their home page, and scroll down a tiny bit into their "New Products" section.


Ninja'd...









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Wow, very happy with the prices. Can't wait to get to the hotel tonight and start assembling my dream res for my next build!


----------



## NeeqOne

Thanks for the response. I am thinking of getting the following:

Monsoon MMRS Triple Port End Cap - Black
Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 150mm
Monsoon MMRS 150mm Tension Rods - Red
Monsoon MMRS D5 Stand Alone Pump - Red
Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black.

I am just wondering if this will fit in my Caselabs Mercury S8 with a 60mm thick radiator and 25mm fans.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> @BoxGods, so I am thinking of going for a multiport top, 150mm reservoir and D5 pump body with a D5. Is this a possibilty?


Sure. Just need to decide how many end facing ports you want, and if you want side facing ports also. Also need to pick your tube color and tension rod color. The end cap that fits a pump is MMRS-TRP (I think).


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Thanks for the response. I am thinking of getting the following:
> 
> Monsoon MMRS Triple Port End Cap - Black
> Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 150mm
> Monsoon MMRS 150mm Tension Rods - Red
> Monsoon MMRS D5 Stand Alone Pump - Red
> Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black.
> 
> I am just wondering if this will fit in my Caselabs Mercury S8 with a 60mm thick radiator and 25mm fans.


Just to make sure you understand--the The D5 stand alone pump is just what the name implies, a separate stand alone pump. It is NOT the one that attaches to the tube. You do likely know that, I just want to make sure.

I know this will be a little complicated till people get used to it so I am happy to answer any questions to make sure everyone gets the right parts.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Wow, very happy with the prices. Can't wait to get to the hotel tonight and start assembling my dream res for my next build!


Yeah I know everyone was expecting to get raped but being modular means you don't have to pay for stuff you're not going to use. Like if we sell an 8 port reservoir I have to include six stop plugs because you never know how many ports each user will use...all those little parts add a LOT to the cost. We also did not go crazy on the packaging to keep costs down a bit.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sure. Just need to decide how many end facing ports you want, and if you want side facing ports also. Also need to pick your tube color and tension rod color. The end cap that fits a pump is MMRS-TRP (I think).


Gene!

I just had a quick look at PPCS and I know the US has low prices on everything.

But I am impressed! You have really pressed the prices here, I do really hope it all goes well and you sell a lot all of them!!
















As I said earlier I chose to go with XSPC reservoirs and Monsoon fittings. I don't regret it though. But I will still probably order some green shiny 200/300mm tension rods from Caseking when it's available, just to pimp my computer/case even more with this absolutely LOVELY green color
















Now we just need extension fittings, let me know if you have any sketches and I can improve them for you























You have done it - again!


----------



## VSG

That's a nice selection of parts, I want to bug Hank now


----------



## BoxGods

I am a little surprised Performance didn't put all the modular reservoir parts together in one section...it is going to make it a lot harder to order parts if they are spread all over the site =(


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just to make sure you understand--the The D5 stand alone pump is just what the name implies, a separate stand alone pump. It is NOT the one that attaches to the tube. You do likely know that, I just want to make sure.
> 
> I know this will be a little complicated till people get used to it so I am happy to answer any questions to make sure everyone gets the right parts.


If I want to create something like the reservoir in the image below with the D5 pump attached directly. Which component will I need to take out from the ones I selected? Thanks


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am a little surprised Performance didn't put all the modular reservoir parts together in one section...it is going to make it a lot harder to order parts if they are spread all over the site =(


I thought they will create a system where you can selected all the need parts in one place.


----------



## xerythul

They unfortunately chose to list all the items individually as seperate pieces that look to the un-initiated as if they might not work together. But if you look at the pictures and watch the video Gene posted you can get a solid idea for the directions you can go with this kit. That is to say anything is possible as long as the water flows the right way!


----------



## Unnatural

Ouch, I made some mock-up order a while ago to see how high international shipping cost was, but I was sooo off








I could buy two stand-alone pump blocks, but I'm not sure I'm capable of filling and bleeding without a reservoir








(By the way: is the orientation of the pump blocks fixed, with the outlet on the opposite side of the stand?)
Guess I have to wait EU vendors


----------



## NeeqOne

Found the items to create the reservoir I want. @BoxGods, can you please let me know if there are the right components?

Monsoon MMRS Triple Port End Cap - Black
Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 150mm
Monsoon MMRS 150mm Tension Rods - Red
Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black.
Monsoon D5 Motor Mounting Tube - Red


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> If I want to create something like the reservoir in the image below with the D5 pump attached directly. Which component will I need to take out from the ones I selected? Thanks
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I looked at that spec in the pic but to have the d5 mount and that top which is just a fill port wont go as the d5 pump mount is a single outlet, so you will need the double or triple top for fill port + inlet i can see you have the triple top. The parts on PPC is all over the place at the moment, cant get to grips with whats needed. i see also there is no anti vortex in the tubes or unless im missing something, be interesting to see how they perform.


----------



## xerythul

For ease of searching the parts and looking at all potential options I have found either going through their "new items" list is helpful, or in the search bar put in "Monsoon MMRS". That should narrow it down to just parts from the modular kit. From there forwards I would look at the early renderings, and the handy video guide Gene posted for us as a starting point.

From what I can see with this kit there are things you can't/shouldn't do, but for the most part as I posted earlier as long as your water is going the correct direction just use your common sense!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Ouch, I made some mock-up order a while ago to see how high international shipping cost was, but I was sooo off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could buy two stand-alone pump blocks, but I'm not sure I'm capable of filling and bleeding without a reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (By the way: is the orientation of the pump blocks fixed, with the outlet on the opposite side of the stand?)
> Guess I have to wait EU vendors


If you use the fixed mounts you can mount perpendicular, or 60 degrees left / 60 degrees right. If you use the Fill / Drain port mounting you can rotate the entire reservoir to any rotation you like. The FDP parts make filling and bleeding your loops dirt simple...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Found the items to create the reservoir I want. @BoxGods, can you please let me know if there are the right components?
> 
> Monsoon MMRS Triple Port End Cap - Black
> Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 150mm
> Monsoon MMRS 150mm Tension Rods - Red
> Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black.
> Monsoon D5 Motor Mounting Tube - Red


That looks right. You need to add 2 mounts--they come in 12mm, 25mm, and 50mm, (1/2", 1", 2") and in the red you are using. If you want CCFL lights you can add those as well.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I looked at that spec in the pic but to have the d5 mount and that top which is just a fill port wont go as the d5 pump mount is a single outlet, so you will need the double or triple top for fill port + inlet i can see you have the triple top. The parts on PPC is all over the place at the moment, cant get to grips with whats needed. i see also there is no anti vortex in the tubes or unless im missing something, be interesting to see how they perform.


actually you can use a coupler and 2 tube segments to add side ports--there are some assembled pictures on the first page of this post.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> actually you can use a coupler and 2 tube segments to add side ports--there are some assembled pictures on the first page of this post.


Im trying to get my head round all the different fittings as i want it as clean as possible, il wait to see what people come up with, but the end metal sections are nice just wish it was or come with the triple port, as i only want a 150mm or 100mm tube, i could do two 50mm with it in but then means having a inlet in the middle, but i suppose it would be different, just the vortex id be worrying about.


----------



## coookiemunster

@BoxGods

So there is a major problem on PPCs site. They have the weights for the individual components listed wrong causing OUTRAGEOUS shipping costs.

MONSOON MMRS 25MM RESERVOIR MOUNT - WHITE 3 lb
MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE 150MM - CLEAR 3 lb
MONSOON MMRS 150MM TENSION RODS - WHITE 3 lb
MONSOON MMRS TRIPLE PORT END CAP WITH DUAL SIDE PORTS - BLACK 3 lb
MONSOON MMRS SINGLE PORT END CAP - BLACK 3 lb

Even the pro bender kit which is not a new product has the weight listed wrong.
MONSOON HARDLINE PRO BENDER KIT 3/8 X 1/2 (13MM) 9.5 lb

I have emailed them to let them know but maybe since you know a guy over there you could maybe say something?


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> @BoxGods
> 
> So there is a major problem on PPCs site. They have the weights for the individual components listed wrong causing OUTRAGEOUS shipping costs.
> 
> MONSOON MMRS 25MM RESERVOIR MOUNT - WHITE 3 lb
> MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE 150MM - CLEAR 3 lb
> MONSOON MMRS 150MM TENSION RODS - WHITE 3 lb
> MONSOON MMRS TRIPLE PORT END CAP WITH DUAL SIDE PORTS - BLACK 3 lb
> MONSOON MMRS SINGLE PORT END CAP - BLACK 3 lb
> 
> Even the pro bender kit which is not a new product has the weight listed wrong.
> MONSOON HARDLINE PRO BENDER KIT 3/8 X 1/2 (13MM) 9.5 lb
> 
> I have emailed them to let them know but maybe since you know a guy over there you could maybe say something?


Already got a response from PPCs, (they are really great!!) they are checking/fixing now. I advise holding orders until they have a chance to fix.


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Already got a response from PPCs, (they are really great!!) they are checking/fixing now. I advise holding orders until they have a chance to fix.


Amazing, maybe I could afford a full reservoir then









I want a clear (or frosty clear) tube, with pump cover in red. The fluid will also be red.I can't decide the color for the tension rods, I'm afraid having them in red would look "too much" :/


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> @BoxGods
> 
> So there is a major problem on PPCs site. They have the weights for the individual components listed wrong causing OUTRAGEOUS shipping costs.
> 
> MONSOON MMRS 25MM RESERVOIR MOUNT - WHITE 3 lb
> MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE 150MM - CLEAR 3 lb
> MONSOON MMRS 150MM TENSION RODS - WHITE 3 lb
> MONSOON MMRS TRIPLE PORT END CAP WITH DUAL SIDE PORTS - BLACK 3 lb
> MONSOON MMRS SINGLE PORT END CAP - BLACK 3 lb
> 
> Even the pro bender kit which is not a new product has the weight listed wrong.
> MONSOON HARDLINE PRO BENDER KIT 3/8 X 1/2 (13MM) 9.5 lb
> 
> I have emailed them to let them know but maybe since you know a guy over there you could maybe say something?


The shipping prices are very high. Hopefully they fix asap.


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Ouch, I made some mock-up order a while ago to see how high international shipping cost was, but I was sooo off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could buy two stand-alone pump blocks, but I'm not sure I'm capable of filling and bleeding without a reservoir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (By the way: is the orientation of the pump blocks fixed, with the outlet on the opposite side of the stand?)
> Guess I have to wait EU vendors


0

There was an issue with the weights listed for the individual parts causing shipping costs to go through the roof. PPCs has let me know they are working on it and I am sure they will have it resolved soon


----------



## NeeqOne

It seems they have fixed the weight issues. But the shipping is still outrageous. For instance the total weight for all items is 7.3 lbs and destination is Seattle, WA. However these are the shipping for United States Postal Service; Priority Mail (2-3 days avg.) $29.25, Priority Express (1-2 days) $56.98.


----------



## NeeqOne

@BoxGods, what is the dimensions for the Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Tube? Thanks.


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> @BoxGods, what is the dimensions for the Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Tube? Thanks.


All dimensions can be found in a diagram posted earlier in the thread by Gene. It also shows up in the pictures in this thread section.


----------



## Unnatural

Err... The description for the Fill/Drain port mentions a part number, "MMRS-FDP-BASE", but I can't find it









EDIT: Nervermind found it


----------



## BoxGods

Graham--the poor ba$tard at Performance who got stuck inputting all this stuff--is going as fast as he can to get everything up and any bugs corrected. It is a LOT of parts, pictures, and descriptions so be patient guys.

The MMRS-FDP-BASE not being there was me as somehow I didn't send pictures of it along. Just got back from the shop shooting those.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> @BoxGods, what is the dimensions for the Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Tube? Thanks.


Re-posting the dimensions below:

Bigger version here.


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> It seems they have fixed the weight issues. But the shipping is still outrageous. For instance the total weight for all items is 7.3 lbs and destination is Seattle, WA. However these are the shipping for United States Postal Service; Priority Mail (2-3 days avg.) $29.25, Priority Express (1-2 days) $56.98.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Graham--the poor ba$tard at Performance who got stuck inputting all this stuff--is going as fast as he can to get everything up and any bugs corrected. It is a LOT of parts, pictures, and descriptions so be patient guys.
> 
> The MMRS-FDP-BASE not being there was me as somehow I didn't send pictures of it along. Just got back from the shop shooting those.


Thanks Graham!!!


----------



## Mads1

So do the ccl lights need inverters, as on the vid it says no inverter, and on ppcs it says click here for inverters.plus is there going to be a cap for DDC pumps as not everyone can fit a D5 in the case if they have SFF.


----------



## Radnad

I see all the mounts, but am I missing it or is there no "stand" to hold the res vertically up from the bottom? It would be nice if there was a stand in the same form as the grasshopper that could mount to the bottom of a case and hold the res up vertically. Although I know you can use the drain/fill port to mount it to the bottom of a case, but I really like the grasshopper mount design and it could leave room for a drain port underneath.


----------



## CrazyCreator

When the sale starts in Germany


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> So do the ccl lights need inverters, as on the vid it says no inverter, and on ppcs it says click here for inverters.plus is there going to be a cap for DDC pumps as not everyone can fit a D5 in the case if they have SFF.


I aimed these parts at guys wanting to build better than "average" rigs so I did not include the cheesy little blue inverters that whine and have the God awful wiring harnesses. I have a scrap drawer in my shop full of those that I should really throw out. My thinking was why add it into the kit just to check that box when everyone either has top end inverters and bay devices or should be using them anyway. Just adds needless cost.

Performance is likely just pointing customers to their inverter selection.

There are three types of CCFL's. One is a twin bulb unit sized to the same length as the tube sections that fits the 25mm and 50mm mounts. There are also CCFL Plugs that allow you to insert the CCFL bulb directly into the reservoir via any of the end ports--up to 3 per end cap so you could concievably have six in one reservoir...if you wanted to sun tan your teeth as you admire how beautiful your new rig is =) These are not quite done yet as we had to redo the USW tooling. Should be about 2 or 3 weeks.

The last are two bulb CCFL kits that match the reservoir CCFL's so that you can put light into other locations in your case and have them exactly match. They have SUPER clean black ends and none of that acrylic cube end stuff with Velcro pads that fall off as soon as it gets a little warm in your case.

There is actually a 4th type of lighting in the works that also uses the acrylic tube down into the reservoir, but these use addressable LED's. This allows you to do insane linear and rotational warp core effects with addressable RGB (color changing) LED's. We are working with "Just a Bunch of Geeks" on these and they will be compatible with their Guardian bay controllers. These are still about a month out but should be pretty amazing for those looking for serious lighting effects.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I see all the mounts, but am I missing it or is there no "stand" to hold the res vertically up from the bottom? It would be nice if there was a stand in the same form as the grasshopper that could mount to the bottom of a case and hold the res up vertically. Although I know you can use the drain/fill port to mount it to the bottom of a case, but I really like the grasshopper mount design and it could leave room for a drain port underneath.


Not currently. I had not considered this type of mount as it would not be all that stable because of the geometry...and it really would be fairly redundant considering the Fill / Drain port does work as a mount for those situations. Having the FDP inside the case sort of misses the point of an externally mounted fill or drain port.

I have a little video I shot this afternoon that might make it a bit clearer. Let me encode it and upload it to the server.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> When the sale starts in Germany


Sorry not for about a month.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I aimed these parts at guys wanting to build better than "average" rigs so I did not include the cheesy little blue inverters that whine and have the God awful wiring harnesses. I have a scrap drawer in my shop full of those that I should really throw out. My thinking was why add it into the kit just to check that box when everyone either has top end inverters and bay devices or should be using them anyway. Just adds needless cost.
> 
> .


When will you do a video to show the res working have they been sent out for review at all, def a nice design im not knocking them just asking info that i couldnt find on them.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> When will you do a video to show the res working have they been sent out for review at all, def a nice design im not knocking them just asking info that i couldnt find on them.


No I understand...I watched like 10 reviews of the new Google Nexus 6P today =)

I intended to have stock here in Texas to send out to reviewers but Performance took the ENTIRE run. I barely had enough parts to do the pictures and videos. I am working on the how to videos now.

Our FTP server is down (as usual...yes I am looking at YOU Eric =) so I am going to try Youtube for a quick sample that shows one way the fill and drain port parts can be used. I have a full tutorial on these parts coming that explains them in much more detail--this is just a "quick and dirty" shot to give you an idea.

No idea if I did this right so as soon as somebody is able (or not) to watch it please let me know.


----------



## VSG

Haha I figured that was the case. It's a good thing when resellers want more than you can provide.

Video does the job well enough.


----------



## Ceadderman

So when are we going LED lighting Gino? Or at least EL wire.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So when are we going LED lighting Gino? Or at least EL wire.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just a bunch of geeks is working on the addressable LED lighting right now. The plug tubes are already done (we do those). Should be in retail in a month to 6 weeks.

As for El Wire...pretty much never =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesome! LED is the only reason for me to run angle fittings. White tubing would look so awesomesauce with light pushing through it at both ends.









~Ceadder


----------



## eucalyptus

When you talk angle rotary fittings.

I am so happy Gene helped me out with replacement for the damaged and faulty ones I received earlier last month.

Today I was in the workshop and made my first work with them







So happy with the result!

**** Notice the last pictures are with the old faulty dark green fittings. Just used them to check the threads were okay.

Everything is done by professionals though.


----------



## xerythul

Hey those look really nice, and I must say I'm jealous of your access to a precision lathe like that. Was there a reason why you didn't buy the light-port fittings from monsoon? They have matching thread-cuts on both sides so it's essentially a T like what you made for yourself there.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Hey those look really nice, and I must say I'm jealous of your access to a precision lathe like that. Was there a reason why you didn't buy the light-port fittings from monsoon? They have matching thread-cuts on both sides so it's essentially a T like what you made for yourself there.


Yeah, there´s a reason









Monsoon, as far as I know don't make any light ports in the 13/10 diameter, only in 16 and 19









Gene, maybe I can start produce 13/10 light ports for you, it is possible in this diameter


----------



## xerythul

Hah well I'll be.... I guess I should have looked before I assumed. In any case the ones you drilled and tapped out look really nice, well done!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Hah well I'll be.... I guess I should have looked before I assumed. In any case the ones you drilled and tapped out look really nice, well done!


Thanks a lot man! Appreciate it









Can't wait to put it all together, just a few more weeks! Have a lot of case work left.

I will grab some green 200 or 300mm rods from the new Monsoon modular series when they are available in Eruope, and ofc modify them to somehow fit on the case


----------



## Ceadderman

Awesome work euc. I'm so jelly atm. My uncle sold his lathe afaik, so I don't have access to one any more.


















~Ceadder


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Awesome work euc. I'm so jelly atm. My uncle sold his lathe afaik, so I don't have access to one any more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Your words make my heart and soul happy and warm
















I am just 18, and it's my last year in school so this opportunity with the amazing machine park and help from great teachers won't last forever
















Also got free hands to use what ever machine I would like to - it's more than a man can dream of!

I have always been, and still are jealous of all others workshops, because my own garage has non of these amazing machines









But thanks again! I can really see, and feel the difference between Overclock and some Swedish forums. The Swedes doesn't care, they are all just jealous of each other and chose to be quiet or just talk negative to each other, and usually nobody sees the hard work behind every beauty. Around here people are nice and always makes me happy and comfortable, best people and forum in the world









Sorry for changing subjects and







But at least it is Monsoon products


----------



## xerythul

In the spirit of bringing the thread back around has anyone placed an order yet with PPCS for their kit? I want to see them!!!


----------



## Unnatural

Just paid for my order, I hope I got everything I need







Also, international shipping









Main reservoir:

Monsoon MMRS Fill Drain Port Round Cap - Red
Monsoon MMRS Fill Drain Port Base
Monsoon MMRS Frosted Reactor Core Acrylic Tube 150mm - Clear
Monsoon MMRS 150mm Tension Rods - Red
Monsoon MMRS Dual Bulb CCFL Light for 150mm Tube - White (I'll try some inverter I already have before buying new ones)
Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube Coupler - Black
Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 100mm - Blood Red
Monsoon MMRS 100mm Tension Rods - Red
Monsoon MMRS Dual Bulb CCFL Light for 100mm Tube - White
Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black
Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Tube - Red
Monsoon MMRS 25mm Reservoir Mount - Red x3

Plus, for my second pump:
Monsoon MMRS D5 Stand Alone Pump - Red

Also, some fitting 6-pack, drill bit for the fill port, and some non-Monsoon item I can't find on my usual EU stores (koolance QD3 with male thread and Fujipoly pad)
Now I pray for Custom's mercy


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Yeah, there´s a reason
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon, as far as I know don't make any light ports in the 13/10 diameter, only in 16 and 19
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gene, maybe I can start produce 13/10 light ports for you, it is possible in this diameter


Sure, as soon as you show me how well it works on the 45 degree fitting...which is the one it doesn't fit on BTW =)

Also...not sure I would have machined those WITH the O rings still on lol...I am *super* impressed you were able to do that caliber of work and not even scuff the decorative finish...mind boggling.

Is it just me...or does the green with the brass/gold color just look flat out cool?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sure, as soon as you show me how well it works on the 45 degree fitting...which is the one it doesn't fit on BTW =)


Yeah, I can believe 45 degree is kinda difficult though.

But I am happy with the result, your products are purely amazing!


----------



## NYSE

Strange they dont have a D5 pump top with a inlet and outlet and mount for a res tube> Perhaps Im missing something?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sure, as soon as you show me how well it works on the 45 degree fitting...which is the one it doesn't fit on BTW =)
> 
> Also...not sure I would have machined those WITH the O rings still on lol...I am *super* impressed you were able to do that caliber of work and not even scuff the decorative finish...mind boggling.
> 
> Is it just me...or does the green with the brass/gold color just look flat out cool?


Thing is, when I mounted them I screwed them on to a another extension fitting I had. So I didn't even had to touch the Monsoon fittings.

Don't know what you mean with flat out cool though









Are you ironic somehow?


----------



## xerythul

He just means incredibly cool by coincidence (chance) because you usually dont see that nice brass color.

NYSE im pretty sure the res mount d5 top does indeed have a threaded inlet and outlet.


----------



## NYSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> He just means incredibly cool by coincidence (chance) because you usually dont see that nice brass color.
> 
> NYSE im pretty sure the res mount d5 top does indeed have a threaded inlet and outlet.


Can you point me to a link with that specific product? Would be greatly appreciated. Looking for the pump top that has inlet / outlet and res tube screws in to.


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> Can you point me to a link with that specific product? Would be greatly appreciated. Looking for the pump top that has inlet / outlet and res tube screws in to.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-black.html

That is the end-cap I had in mind. I'm not 100% sure whether or not the center hole has threading or not but I'm sure @BoxGods can shed some light on that for us.


----------



## NYSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-black.html
> 
> That is the end-cap I had in mind. I'm not 100% sure whether or not the center hole has threading or not but I'm sure @BoxGods can shed some light on that for us.


Thank you yeah that only has 1 outer port, I need a top like that with 2


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Just paid for my order, I hope I got everything I need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, international shipping
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Main reservoir:
> 
> Monsoon MMRS Fill Drain Port Round Cap - Red
> Monsoon MMRS Fill Drain Port Base
> Monsoon MMRS Frosted Reactor Core Acrylic Tube 150mm - Clear
> Monsoon MMRS 150mm Tension Rods - Red
> Monsoon MMRS Dual Bulb CCFL Light for 150mm Tube - White (I'll try some inverter I already have before buying new ones)
> Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube Coupler - Black
> Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 100mm - Blood Red
> Monsoon MMRS 100mm Tension Rods - Red
> Monsoon MMRS Dual Bulb CCFL Light for 100mm Tube - White
> Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black
> Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Tube - Red
> Monsoon MMRS 25mm Reservoir Mount - Red x3
> 
> Plus, for my second pump:
> Monsoon MMRS D5 Stand Alone Pump - Red
> 
> Also, some fitting 6-pack, drill bit for the fill port, and some non-Monsoon item I can't find on my usual EU stores (koolance QD3 with male thread and Fujipoly pad)
> Now I pray for Custom's mercy


I uploaded a video covering the Stand Alone Pump to youtube:






Should cover any questions you might have. One thing I should have mentioned is that you can mount the 12mm mount in your case first and then mount the pump...had a senior moment when making the video as that is one of the features designed into the low profile mount...

Working on the rest of the videos now.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Yeah, I can believe 45 degree is kinda difficult though.
> 
> But I am happy with the result, your products are purely amazing!


Thanks =)

On the 45 it points the rear facing port you would add right into what ever it is your mounting the rotary in so there is essentially zero space. If we offered the 90 degree but not the 45...people would complain non stop--even though I keep saying it is just not physically possible to fit it in the 45.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> He just means incredibly cool by coincidence (chance) because you usually dont see that nice brass color.
> 
> NYSE im pretty sure the res mount d5 top does indeed have a threaded inlet and outlet.


Yeah I meant that the two tone Green and Gold just looks really cool to me...not colors I would normally gravitate towards but I find them very compelling in your pictures.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> Thank you yeah that only has 1 outer port, I need a top like that with 2


Two outlet ports? You could use a "T" like the one shown a few posts back and split the flow. Or our D5 bay reservoir has dual outlet ports.


----------



## BoxGods

Reposting the SAP video link in case it was missed last page:


----------



## NYSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Two outlet ports? You could use a "T" like the one shown a few posts back and split the flow. Or our D5 bay reservoir has dual outlet ports.


Thanks was referring to a D5 top with an inlet and outlet that also allows the res tube to screw into it. I'm running 2 loops.


----------



## JLMS2010

NYSE wants this but with a D5 pump mounted on the bottom of it. 1 outlet, 1 inlet next to each other.


----------



## coookiemunster

2 Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 150mm - Clear
2 Monsoon MMRS Single Port End Cap - Black
4 Monsoon MMRS 25mm Reservoir Mount - White
2 Monsoon MMRS Triple Port End Cap with Dual Side Ports - Black
2 Monsoon MMRS 150mm Tension Rods - White
Monsoon Hardline Pro Bender Kit 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm)


----------



## NYSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> NYSE wants this but with a D5 pump mounted on the bottom of it. 1 outlet, 1 inlet next to each other.


Finally someone understands what Im looking for thank you. Sadly the part doesn't seem to exist.


----------



## xerythul

Yeah it is a pretty specific situation. You might try some combination of standalone res and pump if you have the space in your build.


----------



## JLMS2010

I'm not sure I agree with this being a pretty specific situation. I would think this would be a common piece. EK has one, XSPC has one, AC has one. I am also wondering about this.


----------



## NYSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JLMS2010*
> 
> I'm not sure I agree with this being a pretty specific situation. I would think this would be a common piece. EK has one, XSPC has one, AC has one. I am also wondering about this.


Bitspower also has them. Sucks because I really want to go with this Monsoon.


----------



## BoxGods

I guess I am still not clear on why you can't run the part shown and ALSO the pump top? Just add a 50mm (or however long) tube section. All of the pumps mentioned still only have one pump out port correct?

Said another way, replace the FDP end cap with a D5 pump end cap. That gives you two inlets and the D5 out. Or use a coupler (which gives you two inlets) and any length of tube you want...could add even more inlets...


----------



## xerythul

^^ Something along the lines of what I plan on doing.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> Finally someone understands what Im looking for thank you. Sadly the part doesn't seem to exist.


Thats what i want aswell, but cant be done.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Thats what i want aswell, but cant be done.


So something similar to this...but the extra port at the bottom is the issue right?

That is with a 50mm tube--you can use longer if you want--up to 300mm. More with a coupler.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> So something similar to this...but the extra port at the bottom is the issue right?
> 
> That is with a 50mm tube--you can use longer if you want--up to 300mm. More with a coupler.


oh i see,thats great, thought the rods had to be screwed both ends, would be easier to have a inlet-outlet for a d5 cap mount,would be cleaner for sure. could you give me dimensions for this set up, height wise Also what about vortexing, how does the water act when entering the tube, does it come with a sponge or can the use of after market aqua pipe and vortex plugs be used.
Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Tube - Chrome

Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 150mm - Clear

Monsoon MMRS 25mm Reservoir Mount - Chrome

Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black

Monsoon MMRS 150mm Tension Rods - Chrome

Monsoon MMRS Triple Port End Cap with Dual Side Ports - Black

shame there is not a program where you can design your model where it can be more visual.


----------



## BoxGods

Both ends of the rods DO need to be connected. There are screws inside the pump head.

For the configuration shown above you would need longer screws than the stock ones that ship with the part and an extra O ring--neither are big deals. If it were me I would also still use a short length of tube as it just looks cooler. Even if it was just a 3mm or 6mm "stripe". If your interested I can tell you the screw length you need to get--cheap and fast from Mc Master Car. If there is any interest in this configuration I can also make up a "kit" for it.

Dimensions can be found in the link below. Reservoir tubes add the called out length--150mm tubes add 150mm as an example.



As for an online "configurator...I tried to do a basic one in a spread sheet but it is worthless. Having one programmed in html 5 or flash is beyond me and too expensive to have done. I tried to keep the prices on these parts as low as I could.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Both ends of the rods DO need to be connected. There are screws inside the pump head.
> 
> For the configuration shown above you would need longer screws than the stock ones that ship with the part and an extra O ring--neither are big deals. If it were me I would also still use a short length of tube as it just looks cooler. Even if it was just a 3mm or 6mm "stripe". If your interested I can tell you the screw length you need to get--cheap and fast from Mc Master Car. If there is any interest in this configuration I can also make up a "kit" for it.
> 
> Dimensions can be found in the link below. Reservoir tubes add the called out length--150mm tubes add 150mm as an example.
> 
> 
> 
> As for an online "configurator...I tried to do a basic one in a spread sheet but it is worthless. Having one programmed in html 5 or flash is beyond me and too expensive to have done. I tried to keep the prices on these parts as low as I could.


No worries it was just a suggestion, with regards to the longer screws yes i worked that out and saw the cap size dimesions and worked demensions out, didnt realise that image was on here, with the two cap at the bottom to me it looks to clamped up for me, but i can see it working for some people, but its nice to have this on the market def a nice design, sorry if im chucking loads of questions your way but when i look at products i go right through them, it used to be my job, but would like to see one running to see the liquid flow.


----------



## BoxGods

Not a problem as I am here to answer questions--I know this is always a bit confusing at first =)

I will still make up a few kits to have on hand in case people ask.

As for "too clamped up" I bet the dimensions are very similar to the EK you mentioned...center to center the inlet and outlet are about 43mm apart.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not a problem as I am here to answer questions--I know this is always a bit confusing at first =)
> 
> I will still make up a few kits to have on hand in case people ask.
> 
> As for "too clamped up" I bet the dimensions are very similar to the EK you mentioned...center to center the inlet and outlet are about 43mm apart.


I cant remebering quoting that, but im sure your right about the demensions, but will see what other people come up with. Yes def make some kits up that would be good and a vid showing them in action.


----------



## BoxGods

Maybe it was NYSE that sent the link--sorry about that.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> So something similar to this...but the extra port at the bottom is the issue right?
> 
> That is with a 50mm tube--you can use longer if you want--up to 300mm. More with a coupler.


@BoxGods, what do you think is the best possible way to mount a reservoir configuration like this vertically? I am using a caselabs mercury s8 and will like to mount this near the front window. Thanks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I see all the mounts, but am I missing it or is there no "stand" to hold the res vertically up from the bottom? It would be nice if there was a stand in the same form as the grasshopper that could mount to the bottom of a case and hold the res up vertically. Although I know you can use the drain/fill port to mount it to the bottom of a case, but I really like the grasshopper mount design and it could leave room for a drain port underneath.


I was just drawing up an upright mount option...what does your build schedule look like?

As soon as I have a few renders of it done I will post them in here for your feedback.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> @BoxGods, what do you think is the best possible way to mount a reservoir configuration like this vertically? I am using a caselabs mercury s8 and will like to mount this near the front window. Thanks


It depends on your case, the location, etc. My first choice would be the Fill Port as a mount...allows you to put the reservoir almost anywhere you want...and adds a fill port which is super useful...

I am going to add an upright mount for those who prefer them ...not my first choice personally but everyone likes what they like =)



if anyone has input...now would be better than later =)


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It depends on your case, the location, etc. My first choice would be the Fill Port as a mount...allows you to put the reservoir almost anywhere you want...and adds a fill port which is super useful...
> 
> I am going to add an upright mount for those who prefer them ...not my first choice personally but everyone likes what they like =)
> 
> 
> 
> if anyone has input...now would be better than later =)


How does it look with the reservoir mounted?


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It depends on your case, the location, etc. My first choice would be the Fill Port as a mount...allows you to put the reservoir almost anywhere you want...and adds a fill port which is super useful...
> 
> I am going to add an upright mount for those who prefer them ...not my first choice personally but everyone likes what they like =)
> 
> 
> 
> if anyone has input...now would be better than later =)


make the tail the same shape as the res mounts that would look nice, and would keep its identity plus when cut you will have no waste of metal. Just my 2 bob bit.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> make the tail the same shape as the res mounts that would look nice, and would keep its identity plus when cut you will have no waste of metal. Just my 2 bob bit.


Which part are you referring to as the tail? Also it pretty much is the shape of BOTH types of mounts really...so that all the hardware is interchangeable.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> How does it look with the reservoir mounted?


Mostly invisible as the base is under the motor mounting tube. Only the 26mm wide back shows and it gets the MMRS load spreader at the top so it looks nice. Color matched of course. The MMRS and Monsoon load spreader bars from the grass hopper mount fit on the back side (same as that mount) also.

The base is 3mm thick stainless powder coated black.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Which part are you referring to as the tail? Also it pretty much is the shape of BOTH types of mounts really...so that all the hardware is interchangeable.


Forgot about them mounts yes i see now,


----------



## NYSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> So something similar to this...but the extra port at the bottom is the issue right?
> 
> That is with a 50mm tube--you can use longer if you want--up to 300mm. More with a coupler.


Thank you yes that's close but would look so much better with just the dual. It also adds unnecessary hieght when running a 250 res tube likely making adjusting the Vario pump difficult even in my Case Labs SMA8 which is huge.

Im curious why its not offered as a standard option with just the dual at the base? Is there some reason they skipped the one part so many need with a pump / res combo?

Perhaps you can mention to them - perhaps would be easy to add the part in near future.

The design otherwise is incredibly well thought out and really nice.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Which part are you referring to as the tail? Also it pretty much is the shape of BOTH types of mounts really...so that all the hardware is interchangeable.


This looks good. I guess I am good to go now.


----------



## NYSE

PM sent.


----------



## xerythul

For the curious, or anyone that finds this thread later...PPCS has created a seperate Category exclusively for Monsoon MMRS reservoir parts. It can be found at the following link, with search filtering categories on the left.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-modular-reservoir-system-parts


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> @BoxGods, what do you think is the best possible way to mount a reservoir configuration like this vertically? I am using a caselabs mercury s8 and will like to mount this near the front window. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on your case, the location, etc. My first choice would be the Fill Port as a mount...allows you to put the reservoir almost anywhere you want...and adds a fill port which is super useful...
> 
> I am going to add an upright mount for those who prefer them ...not my first choice personally but everyone likes what they like =)
> 
> 
> 
> if anyone has input...now would be better than later =)
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I was talking about in my earlier post about a "stand", nice I like it! Except for the arrow head shaped base, can it be square? I know your concerned with stability but that base might make it hard to mount in tight spots.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> Thank you yes that's close but would look so much better with just the dual. It also adds unnecessary hieght when running a 250 res tube likely making adjusting the Vario pump difficult even in my Case Labs SMA8 which is huge.
> 
> Im curious why its not offered as a standard option with just the dual at the base? Is there some reason they skipped the one part so many need with a pump / res combo?
> 
> Perhaps you can mention to them - perhaps would be easy to add the part in near future.
> 
> The design otherwise is incredibly well thought out and really nice.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NYSE*
> 
> Thank you yes that's close but would look so much better with just the dual. It also adds unnecessary hieght when running a 250 res tube likely making adjusting the Vario pump difficult even in my Case Labs SMA8 which is huge.
> 
> Im curious why its not offered as a standard option with just the dual at the base? Is there some reason they skipped the one part so many need with a pump / res combo?
> 
> Perhaps you can mention to them - perhaps would be easy to add the part in near future.
> 
> The design otherwise is incredibly well thought out and really nice.


They is me...and actually the "blender pumps" barley sell at all compared to the other types...I will see about adding it down the road though.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> This is exactly what I was talking about in my earlier post about a "stand", nice I like it! Except for the arrow head shaped base, can it be square? I know your concerned with stability but that base might make it hard to mount in tight spots.


The base has the same or smaller footprint as the pump itself...so if the pump fits the base will also.


----------



## xerythul

I hate to be the one to state the obvious but you could always do a little warranty voiding and cut it yourself if it performs the function but isn't shaped correctly. I do it all the time.

Square peg? Round hole? Dremel!!!


----------



## NYSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> They is me...and actually the "blender pumps" barley sell at all compared to the other types...I will see about adding it down the road though.


Thank you really appreciate you considering to add it for us!! At least folks like myself will have that option available to them in the future









Even with that said I purchased 2 complete Monsoon res setups today from PPCS with the hope I can switch to the other cap later.


----------



## xerythul

Hey gene, QQ, I did not see anywhere on PPCS the stand-alone D5 top that _isn't_ for mounting a res directly to the face of it. I see them in the kits with the pump covers and stands, but not by themselves. Is this a mistake or working as intended?

As a point of reference, I mean this kit ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-d5-stand-alone-pump-matte-black.html ) and specifically the pump top/face is what I'm referring to.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Hey gene, QQ, I did not see anywhere on PPCS the stand-alone D5 top that _isn't_ for mounting a res directly to the face of it. I see them in the kits with the pump covers and stands, but not by themselves. Is this a mistake or working as intended?
> 
> As a point of reference, I mean this kit ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-d5-stand-alone-pump-matte-black.html ) and specifically the pump top/face is what I'm referring to.


I have a REALLY bad memory...but IIR my reasoning was two fold--first to keep the resellers from having a stroke over so many SKU's, and also to keep the costs down on the stand alone pump. Did I miss a scenario where a person would want just the stand alone molded part?


----------



## BoxGods

Here is a pretty close approximation of what the upright mount would look like side by side with the low profile mount. The base plate would be 3mm stainless steel sheet with matte black powder coating so it is not so obviously visible when mounted. It would include both the load spreader bars for the mounting side of the case panel and the screws and aluminum parts would be available in all 10 Monsoon color finishes.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> This is exactly what I was talking about in my earlier post about a "stand", nice I like it! Except for the arrow head shaped base, can it be square? I know your concerned with stability but that base might make it hard to mount in tight spots.
> 
> 
> 
> The base has the same or smaller footprint as the pump itself...so if the pump fits the base will also.
Click to expand...

Fantastic!! Thanks!


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have a REALLY bad memory...but IIR my reasoning was two fold--first to keep the resellers from having a stroke over so many SKU's, and also to keep the costs down on the stand alone pump. Did I miss a scenario where a person would want just the stand alone molded part?


Only if its not included in the parts I am getting from you! I'm putting a ppcs cart together right now I just wanted to make sure.


----------



## NYSE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> So something similar to this...but the extra port at the bottom is the issue right?


Yes sir that's correct that's the issue - just want a dual port pump top that allows the res to mount to it. No need for 3 ports.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Only if its not included in the parts I am getting from you! I'm putting a ppcs cart together right now I just wanted to make sure.


Whoops...though your a special use situation for sure. Man and I bet those parts have shipped already too...Dag nab It. I have a few on hand here--let me find out if you're parts shipped.


----------



## xerythul

If I'm not mistaken I believe M told me they would leave tomorrow.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Here is a pretty close approximation of what the upright mount would look like side by side with the low profile mount. The base plate would be 3mm stainless steel sheet with matte black powder coating so it is not so obviously visible when mounted. It would include both the load spreader bars for the mounting side of the case panel and the screws and aluminum parts would be available in all 10 Monsoon color finishes.


----------



## DNMock

Any chance on getting a 90 degree piece or a T shaped connector?

My res is external and lays flat so it make it a bit of a pain to bleed out air bubbles.

Being able to go all the way up both sides and across the entire back of my desk with reservoirs sounds sexy as hell too.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> If I'm not mistaken I believe M told me they would leave tomorrow.


You're not mistaken =) She will add two to your parts leaving in the AM.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Any chance on getting a 90 degree piece or a T shaped connector?
> 
> My res is external and lays flat so it make it a bit of a pain to bleed out air bubbles.
> 
> Being able to go all the way up both sides and across the entire back of my desk with reservoirs sounds sexy as hell too.


I am not entirely clear on your question, (I know it is hard to describe some of this stuff in words). If you go back to a post in this thread from yesterday of the green fittings there is an example of a "T" using our rotaries and Free Center fittings...is that what you're thinking?

I know what you mean traveling around your desk...do they still make those hamster tube "kits"? I think it was Habit Trail...Happy Trail...something similar.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am not entirely clear on your question, (I know it is hard to describe some of this stuff in words). If you go back to a post in this thread from yesterday of the green fittings there is an example of a "T" using our rotaries and Free Center fittings...is that what you're thinking?
> 
> I know what you mean traveling around your desk...do they still make those hamster tube "kits"? I think it was Habit Trail...Happy Trail...something similar.


Pictures might help a bit better:

Meh picture of what I currently have:


What I'm asking about:



A way to have a single large reservoir set up with a section protruding upwards for air to pool up.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Pictures might help a bit better:
> 
> Meh picture of what I currently have:
> 
> 
> What I'm asking about:
> 
> 
> 
> A way to have a single large reservoir set up with a section protruding upwards for air to pool up.


Yeah that makes it a lot clearer thanks. Pretty cool set up BTW. I have had a built in desk PC build on my to do list for at LEAST 10 years now...ah well one of these days.

Based on your sketch and the scale/size of the upwards facing tube I take it to mean you want an upward facing tube that is the same diameter as the main reservoir tube? If so there is not a stock part for that. If you don't require the upward facing section to be the same diameter there are at least two parts that would work. The molded coupler has 2 side facing ports that would be on the top of the reservoir facing towards the desk top, and the end caps with side facing ports also have those ports.

Is your desk top material acrylic or glass? If it is glass, do you have the ability to cut/drill openings into it? Or do you lift the top to fill / top off the reservoir? I wouldn't mind making some custom machined aluminum fill port parts for a project like this if you you can make openings in the glass.

Another option would be to run the reservoir from the far left side to the far right side and have external fill and drain ports similar to the set up in the video I posted on that subject.


----------



## BoxGods

I am reposting the link to the MMRS overview video link...finally figured out how to make a channel for Monsoon =)


----------



## Mads1

Is there any chance to see some of the models working in action.


----------



## BoxGods

Some samples have gone out...hopefully people will be posting soon. If you mean assembly videos...going as fast as I can on those.

Here is the How to on the SAP: 




Here is an MMRS overview: 




Again...5 more videos to follow as quick as I can: Basic assembly, Couplers, Fill / Drain Ports...and like Rick Perry I am drawing a blank on the other two...oh Adding a pump...and Converting an existing Monsoon Two Dual Bay Reservoir to a tube mounting back plate.


----------



## zerone

@boxgods

Quick question about installing M2-BACK-TUBE. I am suppose to use the 6 screws that came with backplate instead of the ones already on the bay reservoir, correct?

Edit: Nevermind, just realized the screws included with M2-BACK-TUBE cant be used to mount it to bay-side, so need to use the one already on the old backplate.


----------



## xerythul

I should have all of my parts by Saturday, which would mean full assembly by end of next week at the earliest. I will try and do a nice little unboxing photo album and maybe some mock-ups of how I envision my setup to add to the already extensive amount of examples BoxGods has put out there for us to ooh and ahh at.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Some samples have gone out...hopefully people will be posting soon. If you mean assembly videos...going as fast as I can on those.
> 
> Here is the How to on the SAP:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is an MMRS overview:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again...5 more videos to follow as quick as I can: Basic assembly, Couplers, Fill / Drain Ports...and like Rick Perry I am drawing a blank on the other two...oh Adding a pump...and Converting an existing Monsoon Two Dual Bay Reservoir to a tube mounting back plate.


I get how to put them together, now i know what bits to get thats easy enough, i want to see one that got fluid in a loop and running through the res so can see it in action, i was just a bit concerned with it vortexing as there is no aqua tube or anti cyclone in them unless you can tell me any different.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> @boxgods
> 
> Quick question about installing M2-BACK-TUBE. I am suppose to use the 6 screws that came with backplate instead of the ones already on the bay reservoir, correct?
> 
> Edit: Nevermind, just realized the screws included with M2-BACK-TUBE cant be used to mount it to bay-side, so need to use the one already on the old backplate.


Correct--we don't include the screws to mount the back plate to your reservoir because A: You already have them, and B: We would have to do a SKU for every finish color--resellers would LOVE that...

The six screws that are included are long set screws used to connect the tension rods to the back plate. You will find that one end of the set screw has a pocket for the included hex wrench so you can screw them in. Once all the set screws are in the back plate you put the tension rods on and it will be pretty obvious what to do from there.

The video will be out shortly.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> I should have all of my parts by Saturday, which would mean full assembly by end of next week at the earliest. I will try and do a nice little unboxing photo album and maybe some mock-ups of how I envision my setup to add to the already extensive amount of examples BoxGods has put out there for us to ooh and ahh at.


As unboxing goes these will be pretty boring...one down side to selling all the parts individually is that 5 or 6 smaller packages can be a lot more expensive than one larger package so I went with very basic folded cards stapled to bags to keep costs down. The goal was to save you money because you only have to get the parts you need for your build...I didn't want to mess that up by going nuts with fancy pants packaging.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I get how to put them together, now i know what bits to get thats easy enough, i want to see one that got fluid in a loop and running through the res so can see it in action, i was just a bit concerned with it vortexing as there is no aqua tube or anti cyclone in them unless you can tell me any different.


I discussed the vortex thing earlier but there are two ways to approach it with MMRS. The first (and my preferred method) is to use a side facing port that feeds into the reservoir opposite the vortex direction and have the energies cancel each other out. Since water returning to the reservoir has very nearly the same energy leaving the reservoir the pump does not have to fight against a plate in the flow path. The second option is to use the CCFL plug tubes to function as breaks just like a plate would--not as efficient as the first method but at least you get light out of them. The CCFL plugs were delayed but *should* be along by mid November.

If neither of those solutions appeal to people I can always add some sort of bolt on solution...that is the joy of a modular system =)


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Correct--we don't include the screws to mount the back plate to your reservoir because A: You already have them, and B: We would have to do a SKU for every finish color--resellers would LOVE that...
> 
> The six screws that are included are long set screws used to connect the tension rods to the back plate. You will find that one end of the set screw has a pocket for the included hex wrench so you can screw them in. Once all the set screws are in the back plate you put the tension rods on and it will be pretty obvious what to do from there.
> 
> The video will be out shortly.


Thanks, will wait for the video. I have been able to put together 1 reservoir and leak tested it but want to make sure I did it right









Also, which screws do you recommend to for attaching MMRS-TRP to the tension rods? There are black ones that came with the rods and chrome ones with the end-cap. On the second reservoir, I am having some trouble threading the motor mounting tube on to the D5 end-cap and wondering if I used the wrong screws.


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> As unboxing goes these will be pretty boring...one down side to selling all the parts individually is that 5 or 6 smaller packages can be a lot more expensive than one larger package so I went with very basic folded cards stapled to bags to keep costs down. The goal was to save you money because you only have to get the parts you need for your build...I didn't want to mess that up by going nuts with fancy pants packaging.


Oh I understand and as far as that goes I really appreciate your forethought in the matter. I was thinking more everything laid out all pretty like...speaking of which my PPCS order just showed up, one down one to go! ;-)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Thanks, will wait for the video. I have been able to put together 1 reservoir and leak tested it but want to make sure I did it right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, which screws do you recommend to for attaching MMRS-TRP to the tension rods? There are black ones that came with the rods and chrome ones with the end-cap. On the second reservoir, I am having some trouble threading the motor mounting tube on to the D5 end-cap and wondering if I used the wrong screws.


You can really use either but the stainless screws that come with the MMRS-TRP part are the ones I would use as they don't show when installed...why waste the sexier colored screws?

If you watch the SAP video it shows how you can make sure you haven't cross threaded the motor mounting tube. I am reposting the link below--you can skip to about the 3:30 mark if you don't want to watch the whole thing.


----------



## cmpxchg8b

Those products are pretty epic. Temptations, temptations...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I get how to put them together, now i know what bits to get thats easy enough, i want to see one that got fluid in a loop and running through the res so can see it in action, i was just a bit concerned with it vortexing as there is no aqua tube or anti cyclone in them unless you can tell me any different.


For builders that don't find the other two methods I mentioned feasible and really want some sort of dampening solution...this is what I am going to test out first. Three pins 25mm (1") long by 6mm diameter (1/4") in the high pressure area. If it works well we will probably offer the pins in both a clear acrylic so they are invisible, and in brass plated with antimicrobial silver so they can help keep the green gunk out of your loop.

I will let you know how they do.


----------



## xerythul

I'm hoping to at least get a test loop running on a res here soon and should be able to provide some video. It won't be for a week though as mentioned above, work etc.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yeah that makes it a lot clearer thanks. Pretty cool set up BTW. I have had a built in desk PC build on my to do list for at LEAST 10 years now...ah well one of these days.
> 
> Based on your sketch and the scale/size of the upwards facing tube I take it to mean you want an upward facing tube that is the same diameter as the main reservoir tube? If so there is not a stock part for that. If you don't require the upward facing section to be the same diameter there are at least two parts that would work. The molded coupler has 2 side facing ports that would be on the top of the reservoir facing towards the desk top, and the end caps with side facing ports also have those ports.
> 
> Is your desk top material acrylic or glass? If it is glass, do you have the ability to cut/drill openings into it? Or do you lift the top to fill / top off the reservoir? I wouldn't mind making some custom machined aluminum fill port parts for a project like this if you you can make openings in the glass.
> 
> Another option would be to run the reservoir from the far left side to the far right side and have external fill and drain ports similar to the set up in the video I posted on that subject.


Top is just acrylic glued to wood. I have enough slack tubing that I can actually pick the reservoir assembly up and tilt it for filling and draining.



The top ports are sweet for that purpose anyway though.

Also let's face a fact. Those are way cooler looking reservoirs than what I'm rocking now. Definitely gonna switch next time I drain the fluid (here in about 3 months or so).

Gotta wonder though, these reservoirs are acrylic, so in theory they should be bendable just like the pipes, right? and I bet a radiator hose would fit quite nicely inside to help keep it shape too. Hmmm


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Top is just acrylic glued to wood. I have enough slack tubing that I can actually pick the reservoir assembly up and tilt it for filling and draining.
> 
> 
> 
> The top ports are sweet for that purpose anyway though.
> 
> Also let's face a fact. Those are way cooler looking reservoirs than what I'm rocking now. Definitely gonna switch next time I drain the fluid (here in about 3 months or so).
> 
> Gotta wonder though, these reservoirs are acrylic, so in theory they should be bendable just like the pipes, right? and I bet a radiator hose would fit quite nicely inside to help keep it shape too. Hmmm


Hmm...quite possibly the coolest idea ever?

The tightest bend inside radius you could get away with is about 1.5 x the tubes OD...so about 90 mm inside radius...certainly food for thought


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You can really use either but the stainless screws that come with the MMRS-TRP part are the ones I would use as they don't show when installed...why waste the sexier colored screws?
> 
> If you watch the SAP video it shows how you can make sure you haven't cross threaded the motor mounting tube. I am reposting the link below--you can skip to about the 3:30 mark if you don't want to watch the whole thing.


Looks like this its one of the old mounting tubes I already had that came off from a M2 bay reservoir has this threading issue. I will try to get another new one next week to see if that works. For now I am using a different color to get things going. Still have very small leak from one of the hole where the tension rods goes into the D5 end cap. Need to figure that one out.

And, not the best picture but what do guys think about this setup, ignore the color mismatch on the bottom one because that's the one I was referring to above and will replace the motor tube with a black one.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Looking at the pictures of the MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black (Model: MMRS-TRP), I cannot tell if a pump mount such as MMRS 12mm Stand Alone Pump Mount - White (MMRS-MT-SAP-WH) is usable.


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Looking at the pictures of the MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black (Model: MMRS-TRP), I cannot tell if a pump mount such as MMRS 12mm Stand Alone Pump Mount - White (MMRS-MT-SAP-WH) is usable.


Huge edit, didnt look closely. The top link is a pump top for connecting directly to a reservoir, the bottom link is for the stand that mounts to the pump top and and acts as a mounting bracket for the entire pump assembly. The only piece you are missing is the collar that mounts the pump to the top. The pump top and collar have to be used together, you cant attach the pump to the top without it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Looking at the pictures of the MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black (Model: MMRS-TRP), I cannot tell if a pump mount such as MMRS 12mm Stand Alone Pump Mount - White (MMRS-MT-SAP-WH) is usable.


It is. The mounting holes are standardized so that they all will fit.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Looks like this its one of the old mounting tubes I already had that came off from a M2 bay reservoir has this threading issue. I will try to get another new one next week to see if that works. For now I am using a different color to get things going. Still have very small leak from one of the hole where the tension rods goes into the D5 end cap. Need to figure that one out.
> 
> And, not the best picture but what do guys think about this setup, ignore the color mismatch on the bottom one because that's the one I was referring to above and will replace the motor tube with a black one.


There is no connection from the internal reservoir to the tension rod holes...so not sure how you could have a leak form there...is it maybe leaking form somewhere else and gravity is making it look like that is where it is coming form?

There are not really all that many places for these to develop leaks and most of the time--I would say 99% of the time--you will find a leak is caused by some foreign debris like an eye lash, cat hair...lint etc. between the O rings and their sealing surfaces...repeated tightening of the screws will not help this as that debris has formed a bridge between the O ring and the surface it is supposed to seal against. If you keep tightening you run the risk of striping out the threads so the best practice is to break the reservoir down, remove all the seals and clean them off with warm soapy water at the sink. Be sure to inspect the channels the O rings sit in for debris as well.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It is. The mounting holes are standardized so that they all will fit.


As I had anticipated, but over time I have learned that confirmation beats the bejezus out of assumption... thank you.

I see you are working on a stand, and I think it looks great. I was wondering if consideration would be given to a fan mount bracket, like the MMRS 12mm Stand Alone Pump Mount, but that spiders out to the fan mount screws on 120mm or 140mm fans?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> As I had anticipated, but over time I have learned that confirmation beats the bejezus out of assumption... thank you.
> 
> I see you are working on a stand, and I think it looks great. I was wondering if consideration would be given to a fan mount bracket, like the MMRS 12mm Stand Alone Pump Mount, but that spiders out to the fan mount screws on 120mm or 140mm fans?


Very interesting idea...hmm

Facing which direction? Since the inlet and outlet are perpendicular I guess it would not really matter. That might actually be pretty cool. I will look into it for sure.


----------



## eucalyptus

Now I am here again to hijack the thread









Just wanted to show everyone how AMAZING these Green Monsoon fittings are!


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Very interesting idea...hmm
> 
> Facing which direction? Since the inlet and outlet are perpendicular I guess it would not really matter. That might actually be pretty cool. I will look into it for sure.


If "which direction" means vertical or horizontal, yes, it shouldn't matter. Since 'most' fan mounting holes have equidistant spacing, the bracket could be rotated 90 degrees to accommodate either preference. Though a horizontal mounting could experience large cantilever stresses depending on reservoir size.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Now I am here again to hijack the thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to show everyone how AMAZING these Green Monsoon fittings are!


Agreed!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> If "which direction" means vertical or horizontal, yes, it shouldn't matter. Since 'most' fan mounting holes have equidistant spacing, the bracket could be rotated 90 degrees to accommodate either preference. Though a horizontal mounting could experience large cantilever stresses depending on reservoir size.


Yeah this would for sure need to be fairly stout...3mm thick stainless *should* do.


----------



## Unnatural

My shipment is already in Italy, and custom duties are less expensives than I thought. I should get them by wednesday, right in time for my birthday!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> My shipment is already in Italy, and custom duties are less expensives than I thought. I should get them by wednesday, right in time for my birthday!


woot!


----------



## Mystriss

I'm so stoked, just ordered a SAP!

I'm going to use it to do some testing as I'm seriously considering replacing my FrozenQ 400mm LF res with a custom res design MMRS, but I'm not quite sure I can make it work like I want in my build.

How difficult do you suppose it would it be to tap in new mounting holes on the couplers? Worst case, could I "float" mount the MMRS couplers, like double stick tape the couplers to the "grasshopper" and other mount stands, or maybe use the typical tube res saddle mounts that clip around the acrylic?

Also, any thoughts on how I could "simulate" the look of having a pump on both ends of the res? (Obviously I can't actually have pumps on either end cause it wouldn't flow the right direction right? But it doesn't appear that I can cap the pump couplers intake hole.) Since the pump coupler is 32mm wide, but the regular couplers are only 24mm wide, it wouldn't be symmetrical. >.<

(Also, bug reporting that getting a PM while making a post messes everything up lol)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I'm so stoked, just ordered a SAP!
> 
> I'm going to use it to do some testing as I'm seriously considering replacing my FrozenQ 400mm LF res with a custom res design MMRS, but I'm not quite sure I can make it work like I want in my build.
> 
> How difficult do you suppose it would it be to tap in new mounting holes on the couplers? Worst case, could I "float" mount the MMRS couplers, like double stick tape the couplers to the "grasshopper" and other mount stands, or maybe use the typical tube res saddle mounts that clip around the acrylic?
> 
> Also, any thoughts on how I could "simulate" the look of having a pump on both ends of the res? (Obviously I can't actually have pumps on either end cause it wouldn't flow the right direction right? But it doesn't appear that I can cap the pump couplers intake hole.) Since the pump coupler is 32mm wide, but the regular couplers are only 24mm wide, it wouldn't be symmetrical. >.<
> 
> (Also, bug reporting that getting a PM while making a post messes everything up lol)


Lots of questions there let's see how many I can get =)

1: _*How difficult do you suppose it would it be to tap in new mounting holes on the couplers?*_ Difficult is relative of course based on the tools and experience you have. If your reasonably capable not too difficult. I would use a 25mm mount as a guide--clamp it in the EXACT location you want it to be, then mark a drill bit with blue tape as a depth stop so you do not accidentally drill too deeply into the coupler and drill the new holes with the mount keeping the drill bit in the correct orientation.

All of the above said, the couplers (and all the other molded parts) already come with mounting holes 60 degrees left and 60 degree right so you may find that you don't need to drill additional holes. Also, if the ends of the reservoir already have mounts you don't HAVE to include a mount on the coupler and it can be rotated a full 360 degrees independently of the end caps--again in 60 degree increments. Lastly if you use a fill or drain port end cap you can mount the reservoir at any orientation you like over that 360 degrees in 1 degree (or less even) increments. Wait for the Fill / Drain port video to see how these work in more detail.

2. _*Worst case, could I "float" mount the MMRS couplers, like double stick tape the couplers to the "grasshopper" and other mount stands?*_ Not really--to be candid that would be pretty cheesy and these parts ar not about cheesy. Not to mention just not secure enough.

3. *Also, any thoughts on how I could "simulate" the look of having a pump on both ends of the res?* There is no need to simulate it...you can have a pump on both ends of a reservoir provided it is mounted horizontally. You can NOT have one on both ends for reservoirs mounted vertically as the top pump would starve. You CAN use a cap on the top pump and "simulate" it though. If your serious about this I can machine a cap for you to block of the top pump. It would not damage the pump in any way and would be easily removable down the road if you at some point wanted to use the pump in another build.

Below is a picture of a dual D5 set up.



I think I got em all...if not let me know =)


----------



## BoxGods

Got another one of the MMRS How To videos done. This is video #2 and covers BASIC ASSEMBLY. Should have a few more up today. Will post links here.






*EDIT*

Here is video #3 in the series that covers using the couplers


----------



## xerythul

Hey box, can you just set my mind at ease and tell me the inlet is the res facing port, and the outlet is the port 90 deg on the side?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Hey box, can you just set my mind at ease and tell me the inlet is the res facing port, and the outlet is the port 90 deg on the side?


It is the same for either pump--


----------



## xerythul

Thanks!


----------



## CrazyCreator

Hi BoxGods, i have a D5 Cover from Bitspower can i use this instead the Cover from yours.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> Hi BoxGods, i have a D5 Cover from Bitspower can i use this instead the Cover from yours.


Sorry no.


----------



## BoxGods

Really knocking them out today. Posted another MMRS how to video on Youtube. This is #4 in the series and covers adding a pump to your reservoir.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Lots of questions there let's see how many I can get =)
> 
> 1: _*How difficult do you suppose it would it be to tap in new mounting holes on the couplers?*_ Difficult is relative of course based on the tools and experience you have. If your reasonably capable not too difficult. I would use a 25mm mount as a guide--clamp it in the EXACT location you want it to be, then mark a drill bit with blue tape as a depth stop so you do not accidentally drill too deeply into the coupler and drill the new holes with the mount keeping the drill bit in the correct orientation.
> 
> All of the above said, the couplers (and all the other molded parts) already come with mounting holes 60 degrees left and 60 degree right so you may find that you don't need to drill additional holes. Also, if the ends of the reservoir already have mounts you don't HAVE to include a mount on the coupler and it can be rotated a full 360 degrees independently of the end caps--again in 60 degree increments. Lastly if you use a fill or drain port end cap you can mount the reservoir at any orientation you like over that 360 degrees in 1 degree (or less even) increments. Wait for the Fill / Drain port video to see how these work in more detail.


Awesome, yea I'm not going to be able to come straight off the pump because it's on a cover plate at an angle to give the 1mm aluminum panel body enough to hold the weight of the res (and now pumps!) See:
 

As you can see there in the second pic, I've got hoses, light ports, etc. under the panel so I'm going to have to come off the res in odd places and very specific angles in order to get everything to fit (there's two different loops involved.) I think I can change the mount holes on the couplers without killing myself though so that's great.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 2. _*Worst case, could I "float" mount the MMRS couplers, like double stick tape the couplers to the "grasshopper" and other mount stands?*_ Not really--to be candid that would be pretty cheesy and these parts ar not about cheesy. Not to mention just not secure enough.


Hey! We prefer the term "Ghetto" thank you very much







But yea, I was thinking the pump vibration would make the tape idea really iffy, but I wasn't sure about the saddle mount types.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 3. *Also, any thoughts on how I could "simulate" the look of having a pump on both ends of the res?* There is no need to simulate it...you can have a pump on both ends of a reservoir provided it is mounted horizontally. You can NOT have one on both ends for reservoirs mounted vertically as the top pump would starve. You CAN use a cap on the top pump and "simulate" it though. If your serious about this I can machine a cap for you to block of the top pump. It would not damage the pump in any way and would be easily removable down the road if you at some point wanted to use the pump in another build.
> 
> Below is a picture of a dual D5 set up.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I got em all...if not let me know =)


!!! ~Throws money at screen~ That's perfect! No need for a special cap or w/e, I was planning to run two pumps on my loop cause it's pretty long, but I didn't think both pumps could feed into the res like that without messing everything up. Backflow or something I thought... I did know it couldn't be done horizontally cause of the expansion space you have to leave in the res. I'm learning!

Uhm... So this is my first attempt at a loop and I'd had a lot of help designing my old loop, so I can't say I really understand the fluid dynamics of the whole process. And of course, I want everything "just so" in the appearance of my case and everything, so I've made it a big mess of confusion for myself over all. It's going to look epic when I get done though! Actually it's already looking awesome and I've got those "I did that" warm fuzzies







Monsoon's already a big part of my build so the matching MMRS res I've got pictured in my head would just put it over the top for me, I just have to figure out how to make it work with my odd build heh


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Awesome, yea I'm not going to be able to come straight off the pump because it's on a cover plate at an angle to give the 1mm aluminum panel body enough to hold the weight of the res (and now pumps!) See:
> 
> 
> As you can see there in the second pic, I've got hoses, light ports, etc. under the panel so I'm going to have to come off the res in odd places and very specific angles in order to get everything to fit (there's two different loops involved.) I think I can change the mount holes on the couplers without killing myself though so that's great.
> Hey! We prefer the term "Ghetto" thank you very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yea, I was thinking the pump vibration would make the tape idea really iffy, but I wasn't sure about the saddle mount types.
> !!! ~Throws money at screen~ That's perfect! No need for a special cap or w/e, I was planning to run two pumps on my loop cause it's pretty long, but I didn't think both pumps could feed into the res like that without messing everything up. Backflow or something I thought... I did know it couldn't be done horizontally cause of the expansion space you have to leave in the res. I'm learning!
> 
> Uhm... So this is my first attempt at a loop and I'd had a lot of help designing my old loop, so I can't say I really understand the fluid dynamics of the whole process. And of course, I want everything "just so" in the appearance of my case and everything, so I've made it a big mess of confusion for myself over all. It's going to look epic when I get done though! Actually it's already looking awesome and I've got those "I did that" warm fuzzies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon's already a big part of my build so the matching MMRS res I've got pictured in my head would just put it over the top for me, I just have to figure out how to make it work with my odd build heh


Another option...


----------



## Mystriss

mmmhmmm I saw that. I thought about doing side by side res w/pump & tube sections and having the two external round fill port end cap parts meet in the center of my case; kind of an "alien technology" look in my head.

BTW I love your videos going over everything, they're very helpful.


----------



## coookiemunster

Guess what UPS brought today!!??


----------



## Mystriss

Lucky! /so much jelly/

PPCS hasn't sent my SAP out yet







-- Edit, I just checked it's on its way /happydance

Also, needs more parts pron and less packing peanuts


----------



## xerythul

Small preview....


----------



## InfoSeeker

Is it possible to take the output of a D5 pump, and run it into an MMRS reservoir to make a dual D5 series setup?
Can the O-rings and tube take the pressure?


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> 
> 
> Small preview....


Very cool!!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Hmm...quite possibly the coolest idea ever?
> 
> The tightest bend inside radius you could get away with is about 1.5 x the tubes OD...so about 90 mm inside radius...certainly food for thought


Thanks, I think I'm gonna give that a try and see how it goes. I'll post some pictures up when I do, assuming it goes well.

edit: seeing what I'm going to attempt doing, i'll be adding some serious water volume to the loop itself. Will more pump power be needed?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> 
> 
> Small preview....


I had not seen the purple parts with the frosted tube...wow that looks nice!

I was trying to figure out why you had the load spreader bars on the inside...then I figured you just set the parts in there to figure out where you're going to mount them right?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Is it possible to take the output of a D5 pump, and run it into an MMRS reservoir to make a dual D5 series setup?
> Can the O-rings and tube take the pressure?


Our water cooling loops run at something like 5 PSI and these could pretty easily handle 10 x that. The seals would hold past the pressure the tube itself can handle.

So short answer, Yes, and yes.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Thanks, I think I'm gonna give that a try and see how it goes. I'll post some pictures up when I do, assuming it goes well.
> 
> edit: seeing what I'm going to attempt doing, i'll be adding some serious water volume to the loop itself. Will more pump power be needed?


No. Your not trying to dead lift a huge column of water so you should be fine....unless your looking for a reason to add another pump just because you want to...in that case you for SURE need another pump


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I had not seen the purple parts with the frosted tube...wow that looks nice!
> 
> I was trying to figure out why you had the load spreader bars on the inside...then I figured you just set the parts in there to figure out where you're going to mount them right?


Yeah exactly, thats why the bottom spreaders are also wrapped in masking tape too, no scratches on that beautiful "never to be seen again" finish. The worst thing is that even with all this modularity and the options available...I'm still having trouble making everything fit how I think it should haha! More pictures later!!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Yeah exactly, thats why the bottom spreaders are also wrapped in masking tape too, no scratches on that beautiful "never to be seen again" finish. The worst thing is that even with all this modularity and the options available...I'm still having trouble making everything fit how I think it should haha! More pictures later!!


Looks like your pretty space limited--especially in height. Ah well the challenge is why we all do this right?


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks like your pretty space limited--especially in height. Ah well the challenge is why we all do this right?


Now you see why I was so "patient" this whole time. My options were already limited and this new concept in modularity from you is actually only making it more difficult because of all the choices... ;-)


----------



## BoxGods

...blonds...brunets...red heads...petite...amazonian...

I like choices =)


----------



## xerythul

Ha-ha me too...except I'm digging this sultry purple. The more I look at it the more I fall in love with it.


----------



## Unnatural

Feels like I'm holding a sci-fi movie prop











Quality is superb, the only thing to blame is my designing skills








It's wonderful when you're tightening the screws and you feel why they're called tension rods


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Feels like I'm holding a sci-fi movie prop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quality is superb, the only thing to blame is my designing skills
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's wonderful when you're tightening the screws and you feel why they're called tension rods


Nothing at all wrong with your design skills. The whole point of MMRS is you get to configure what YOU like. That said...I would probably rotate the warp core frosted tube a little so it aligns correctly with the T-Rods...but that is just me =)

Yeah it is pretty amazing how much force you can apply with a screw isn't it?


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That said...I would probably rotate the warp core frosted tube a little so it aligns correctly with the T-Rods...but that is just me =)


Sure, this is just a quick assembly, I was too eager to see it complete









BTW, I also ordered a Stand-Alone D5 pump set, but the 6 screws weren't included. If they're just for aesthetics - as it seems - no problem at all, I'll just keep it with the (beautiful) maltese cross facing. If otherwise they have structural purposes, can I use some common hardware in their place? Thanks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Sure, this is just a quick assembly, I was too eager to see it complete
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I also ordered a Stand-Alone D5 pump set, but the 6 screws weren't included. If they're just for aesthetics - as it seems - no problem at all, I'll just keep it with the (beautiful) maltese cross facing. If otherwise they have structural purposes, can I use some common hardware in their place? Thanks


They are for aesthetics and I just found out this AM that those were also accidentally left off the packaging punch list =(

We are rushing the screws to PPCS to be added to the inventory they have on hand, and if you can email me your shipping information I will get them in the mail to you ASAP. I very much apologize for the inconvenience.


----------



## DNMock

Last question before I get going on this project. Given a minimum radius of 90mm on the bend, would the 200mm tube be long enough to make that bend AND not risk warping the ends with the threading, or should I try and make my bends on the 300mm tube?

Not going to hold you to it, but at 15 to 20 bucks a pop though I'd rather be safe than sorry.


----------



## coookiemunster

All masked and ready for paint!!
I made some cardboard / duct tape sleeves that fit super tight to protect the o-ring channel

Thoughts?


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Last question before I get going on this project. Given a minimum radius of 90mm on the bend, would the 200mm tube be long enough to make that bend AND not risk warping the ends with the threading, or should I try and make my bends on the 300mm tube?
> 
> Not going to hold you to it, but at 15 to 20 bucks a pop though I'd rather be safe than sorry.


If you're referring to the res tube itself, those ends are not threaded in this kit.

edit:...

@coookiemunster

You might consider taping the o-ring channels, because despite what does look like a tight fit you can still see a lot of gaps in there that a thorough paint job will happily fill up.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Last question before I get going on this project. Given a minimum radius of 90mm on the bend, would the 200mm tube be long enough to make that bend AND not risk warping the ends with the threading, or should I try and make my bends on the 300mm tube?
> 
> Not going to hold you to it, but at 15 to 20 bucks a pop though I'd rather be safe than sorry.


It will need to be 300mm tube and if you center the bend perfectly you will end up with about 30mm of straight tube on each end or "leg".


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> All masked and ready for paint!!
> I made some cardboard / duct tape sleeves that fit super tight to protect the o-ring channel
> 
> Thoughts?


Not EXACTLY a tight fit...but as long as you shoot the paint from a fairly oblique angle, (not right down into the channel IOW) and not super heavy you should be OK. Make sure you washed those well with warm soapy water also. And several light mist coats is better than one heavy coat--you probably already know all of this just covering the bases.

Those look like zombie cupcakes creeping up on something lol.


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> If you're referring to the res tube itself, those ends are not threaded in this kit.
> 
> edit:...
> 
> @coookiemunster
> 
> You might consider taping the o-ring channels, because despite what does look like a tight fit you can still see a lot of gaps in there that a thorough paint job will happily fill up.


Thanks xerythul, Thats what I was afraid of...

ok round 2. I taped along the inside of the o-ring channel with duct tape with the tape taller than the channel (painters tape wouldn't stay put)



then i stuffed the cardboard sleeve down on the inside of that



and sealed up the whole thing, capped it off with paper towel, painters tape and a clip to hang it by




Looks kinda ghetto right now but it should keep any paint out of the channel - I will let you know how it turns out


----------



## BoxGods

I think you will be fine. Just do light coats and watch your spray angle a bit. Also...if you're not going to use the other mounting holes...maybe fill them in with a little plastic filler, (aka Bondo)? A little extra work--mostly a few minutes of sanding...but the devil is in those little details =)


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It will need to be 300mm tube and if you center the bend perfectly you will end up with about 30mm of straight tube on each end or "leg".


Perfect!

Got them ordered









Will update early next week with the results.

edit: All right, got my proof of concept assembly ordered.

New problem: Tension rod bending....

These guys gonna be ok being bent, or am I gonna have to bust out the welder and cut each one into 3 sections and weld them back together at 30 degree angles?

If my math is right, the lengths will need to be:

two rods:
(90 * 2 * 3.14 *.25) + 30 + 30 = 201.3 mm in length (Bent on 90mm radius)

two rods:
[(90 + 30) * 2 *3.14 * .25] + 30 + 30 = 248.4 mm in length (Bent on 120mm radius)

two rods:
[(90 + 60) * 2 * 3.14 *.25] + 30 + 30 = 295.5 mm in length. (Bent on 150mm radius)

Works out well in my head so I ordered some 300mm, 250mm, and 200mm rods

Also got an extra coupler which i may have to bore out the holes so it easily slides over the reservoir to the exact center and bore out the screw holes a bit to run the tension rods through (maybe use some black JBWeld in the holes?) in order to keep the rods from wanting to twist up and not do their job once they start to tighten up. Also probably a good idea to put an extra support out on the elbow of the bend.

Gotta come up with something. Could always just glue the end caps on but it might look too strange without the use of the tension rods.

Anyone got any ideas here, or is this something I'm gonna need to go to a machine shop and get custom fabbed if I wanna keep the tension rod look and appeal.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Perfect!
> 
> Got them ordered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will update early next week with the results.
> 
> edit: All right, got my proof of concept assembly ordered.
> 
> New problem: Tension rod bending....
> 
> These guys gonna be ok being bent, or am I gonna have to bust out the welder and cut each one into 3 sections and weld them back together at 30 degree angles?
> 
> If my math is right, the lengths will need to be:
> 
> two rods:
> (90 * 2 * 3.14 *.25) + 30 + 30 = 201.3 mm in length (Bent on 90mm radius)
> 
> two rods:
> [(90 + 30) * 2 *3.14 * .25] + 30 + 30 = 248.4 mm in length (Bent on 120mm radius)
> 
> two rods:
> [(90 + 60) * 2 * 3.14 *.25] + 30 + 30 = 295.5 mm in length. (Bent on 150mm radius)
> 
> Works out well in my head so I ordered some 300mm, 250mm, and 200mm rods
> 
> Also got an extra coupler which i may have to bore out the holes so it easily slides over the reservoir to the exact center and bore out the screw holes a bit to run the tension rods through (maybe use some black JBWeld in the holes?) in order to keep the rods from wanting to twist up and not do their job once they start to tighten up. Also probably a good idea to put an extra support out on the elbow of the bend.
> 
> Gotta come up with something. Could always just glue the end caps on but it might look too strange without the use of the tension rods.
> 
> Anyone got any ideas here, or is this something I'm gonna need to go to a machine shop and get custom fabbed if I wanna keep the tension rod look and appeal.


Whoa...slam on the breaks. I didn't think you also intended to use the Tension rods. Those require linear force to compress the O rings...they won't work around a bend IOW.

I can laser cut rings for you in 12mm acrylic that are threaded for the M4 screws used on the tension rods. Then you bond the rings onto your tube with our UV cure adhesive (super strong and dirt simple to use). If you REALLY wanted the rods there for aesthetics you could use dummy rods...but strictly speaking they are not needed in the least.

You get the tube bent successfully and I will make the specialty parts you need gratis. But let's see some bent tube results first.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Whoa...slam on the breaks. I didn't think you also intended to use the Tension rods. Those require linear force to compress the O rings...they won't work around a bend IOW.
> 
> I can laser cut rings for you in 12mm acrylic that are threaded for the M4 screws used on the tension rods. Then you bond the rings onto your tube with our UV cure adhesive (super strong and dirt simple to use). If you REALLY wanted the rods there for aesthetics you could use dummy rods...but strictly speaking they are not needed in the least.
> 
> You get the tube bent successfully and I will make the specialty parts you need gratis. But let's see some bent tube results first.


Yeah I was planning on doing that part, sorry if i wasn't clear on that. The bending of tension rods was more for not making it not look out of place









The machined UV glue attachment would be awesome, but yes, gotta make sure the bend will pull off first


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Yeah I was planning on doing that part, sorry if i wasn't clear on that. The bending of tension rods was more for not making it not look out of place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The machined UV glue attachment would be awesome, but yes, gotta make sure the bend will pull off first


I would say it's impossible to bend the rods without damage or scratches! They are extremely delicate, very easy to get scratches or marks.

I would do as Gene said, try bending and with good result you get acrylic rods from him.

I am just impressed by the thought of doing a bent res. Who would even think of that xD

What's the reason btw?


----------



## ruffhi

I just found these at ppcs ... and I am glad I did. They give tons of different combs and I will be using monsoon for all / most / some of my cooling needs. I like that the res, tubes and connectors are all color matched.

I am looking at a CaseLabs S8 and I want the res vertical in the left front window. I was getting concerned about the lack vertical res options until I found this thread and saw the below.

Excellent. Will it be strong enough to hold a 250mm res with all the usual trimmings?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> @BoxGods, what do you think is the best possible way to mount a reservoir configuration like this vertically? I am using a caselabs mercury s8 and will like to mount this near the front window. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on your case, the location, etc. My first choice would be the Fill Port as a mount...allows you to put the reservoir almost anywhere you want...and adds a fill port which is super useful...
> 
> I am going to add an upright mount for those who prefer them ...not my first choice personally but everyone likes what they like =)
> 
> 
> 
> if anyone has input...now would be better than later =)
Click to expand...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I would say it's impossible to bend the rods without damage or scratches! They are extremely delicate, very easy to get scratches or marks.
> 
> I would do as Gene said, try bending and with good result you get acrylic rods from him.
> 
> I am just impressed by the thought of doing a bent res. Who would even think of that xD
> 
> What's the reason btw?


I agree. The finish is fine for its intended purpose but I am certain it would not survive being bent into those curves unscathed. The options are to leave them off all together for the bent tube section or bend the rods first and then apply the finish. Or to go with a raw stainless look which is still very attractive as all of our test mules had that finish--or non-finish I guess. My personal choice would be to leave them off of the bent tube section all together as the 12mm acrylic flanges on each end of the curved tube will add a lot of visual impact...why take away from that cool factor?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just found these at ppcs ... and I am glad I did. They give tons of different combs and I will be using monsoon for all / most / some of my cooling needs. I like that the res, tubes and connectors are all color matched.
> 
> I am looking at a CaseLabs S8 and I want the res vertical in the left front window. I was getting concerned about the lack vertical res options until I found this thread and saw the below.
> 
> Excellent. Will it be strong enough to hold a 250mm res with all the usual trimmings?


We are testing that mount this week so I will know for sure by next week but that plate is 3mm thick stainless and the M4 screws have a lot of depth into the molded parts so my felling is it will be quite solid. Will depend on the installation / orientation to some extent though. There are 5 mounting options now so there will be a good mounting solution for just about every situation. I think most people are still not clear on the fill ports as a mount and as more people see them being used as mounts they will become the preferred method. It just adds so much functionality being able to fill and drain the loop externally.


----------



## xerythul

I plan on showcasing that to a small degree in my build actually. Due to the horizontal mounting of the res I will be filling and draining it with the case on its side and the FDP (fill/drain port) is going to be clutch in keeping everything upright, and mounted where it needs to be.


----------



## BoxGods

A little update on anti-vortex device testing.

The pins work to some extent but they have to be fairly long to be effective enough to warrant the effort. Trying the three blade design below next. I like the look and with the three blade/vane shape there should be enough surface without having to be so tall. I also really like the look. If it works well I think I will call it the trident. I might even make them red to stand out a bit visually =)

If these don't work I may have to break down and use a screwed on plate...I REALLY dislike that look so fingers crossed on Trident!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We are testing that mount this week so I will know for sure by next week but that plate is 3mm thick stainless and the M4 screws have a lot of depth into the molded parts so my felling is it will be quite solid. Will depend on the installation / orientation to some extent though.


No rush on my count ... this build is months away for me ... just planning and thinking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> There are 5 mounting options now so there will be a good mounting solution for just about every situation. I think most people are still not clear on the fill ports as a mount and as more people see them being used as mounts they will become the preferred method. It just adds so much functionality being able to fill and drain the loop externally.


Five ... hmmm ...
1) horizontal out of dual bay
2) on little wishbone stand
3) hanging from the top of the case (using fill port)
4) standing on the bottom of the case (using fill port)
5) this new one you are trialling

Did I miss / double count one?

The thing with the S8 is that, with 2 x 120.3 rads on top, there is no top to hand this res from. the bottom fill port option might be doable ... but not sure on stability. You might be able to use #5 at the top of the S5 front window (not much room there).

What about the stand you have above but with 2 wings 180° offset? That would double the support and make it more stable.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> I plan on showcasing that to a small degree in my build actually. Due to the horizontal mounting of the res I will be filling and draining it with the case on its side and the FDP (fill/drain port) is going to be clutch in keeping everything upright, and mounted where it needs to be.


Thanks for that. I'll be watching and waiting. Or is it waiting and watching?


----------



## BoxGods

Also tinkering with a "fan mountable" stand. I think some sort of radiator mounts would also be interesting. Comes back to the joy of a modular design...always expanding.


----------



## BoxGods

Just wanted to share a picture a builder named Henry sent along that shows how people find different ways to use things. The builder is Henry and he has mad photography skills. In the interests of full disclosure he is also having a hard time with a vortex in the short 100mm length. Hopefully adding the Trident part will get that sorted out.

It took me a minute to even realize what he had done that was different...he used the low profile 12mm Grasshopper mounts, but then also added the 25mm mounts but used them to down light the reservoir. Just looks cool to me...like some sort of fusion engine.


----------



## xerythul

Getting some love from the community courtesy of ppcs and their friends...

http://www.modders-inc.com/put-together-new-mmrs-res-monsoon/


----------



## ruffhi

I think just went up too ...




As I said above, the S8 with 2 x drop-in 120.3 rads. You could pull it back to 120.2. It is a pity that there isn't a 120.2 & 120.3 drop in rad option with the S8.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Getting some love from the community courtesy of ppcs and their friends...
> 
> http://www.modders-inc.com/put-together-new-mmrs-res-monsoon/


Yeah...watching Nick try to put an extra O ring on the back of the pump was kind of funny lol. I was like WTH is he doing? I am pretty stoked about his Spy vs Spy build as I loved the original cartoons back in the day. Would be cool to do a Pink Panther build to go along with it.

Not sure if this will work but here is a link to all the videos I have gotten done so far on one youtube channel.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q

I still have MMRS #5 FILL and Drain Ports and MMRS #6 M2 Reservoir Back to do but there should be enough there (if the link works) to get everyone going. I am going to play hooky part of this weekend for some CIV on my new rig with some ultra wide screen action...but I will try to get to at least one of the videos also. Really I will =)


----------



## ruffhi

Sub'd to the youtube channel! CIV as in Civilization IV ... that game that is a decade old? I have about 10 pbem games going at the moment ... the only game I play.


----------



## zerone

Wondering if anybody else is having some trouble installing a D5 pump using the motor tubes. For some reason I am unable tighten it enough. The motor tube goes in fine into the D5 end-cap when there is no pump in there. But once I put a pump in there, it gets slightly tight after rotating to a certain point but then any more rotation causes it to suddenly come off loose.

I am trying to extend two of the M2 bay reservoirs with tube reservoirs and D5 pumps at the other end. I already had a black motor tube from my bay reservoirs so I just ordered one with my reservoir parts. While assembling, only one of the motor had this problem. I wasn't sure if it was the old one or the new one since they both got mixed up one and I couldn't tell which one was old. So ordered another one from PPCs which arrived today and i am having same problem with the new one . I have another blue one which is old and doesn't have this problem.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I would say it's impossible to bend the rods without damage or scratches! They are extremely delicate, very easy to get scratches or marks.
> 
> I would do as Gene said, try bending and with good result you get acrylic rods from him.
> 
> I am just impressed by the thought of doing a bent res. Who would even think of that xD
> 
> What's the reason btw?


Cus it sounds like a cool idea. No real reason, definitely not for functionality.

Change what I'm currently rolling with, this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







To something more like this (Yeah, I know, my MS Paint skills are a little shoddy):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Spent last fall and winter building the desk itself and it was a blast doing it. I'm happy with it but always looking for way to change or improve it.

Tried originally to actually make the entire top of the desk a huge reservoir, but was never able to pull it off.

TL;DR - I like wasting money on frivolous stuff that has no real purpose to waste my spare time.

edit: And yea, definitely going to default to what Gene has to say. Not nearly so daft as to think I know better than him









edit #2: Anyone kind enough to get me the inner diameter on the reservoir?


----------



## Blackseep

What is the outside diameter of the MMRS?

If I were to do an end cap, fill/drain port base and fill/drain port cap with 100mm of tube. How long would it be?
Or, an end cap, a coupler, fill/drain port base and fill/drain port cap with two 50mm of tube. How long would it be?

Thanks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Sub'd to the youtube channel! CIV as in Civilization IV ... that game that is a decade old? I have about 10 pbem games going at the moment ... the only game I play.


Old guy...old game with old friends =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Wondering if anybody else is having some trouble installing a D5 pump using the motor tubes. For some reason I am unable tighten it enough. The motor tube goes in fine into the D5 end-cap when there is no pump in there. But once I put a pump in there, it gets slightly tight after rotating to a certain point but then any more rotation causes it to suddenly come off loose.
> 
> I am trying to extend two of the M2 bay reservoirs with tube reservoirs and D5 pumps at the other end. I already had a black motor tube from my bay reservoirs so I just ordered one with my reservoir parts. While assembling, only one of the motor had this problem. I wasn't sure if it was the old one or the new one since they both got mixed up one and I couldn't tell which one was old. So ordered another one from PPCs which arrived today and i am having same problem with the new one . I have another blue one which is old and doesn't have this problem.


Hmm...a lot of info there =)

So you have two molded D5 TRP parts, two black motor mounting tubes, and one blue motor mounting tube tube. One of the TRP parts works fine with all three motor mounting tubes. The other TRP part works with the blue mounting tube but not with either black one?

I have posted links to the installation video farther back in this thread that show how I back the mounting tube out a few revolutions till it "clicks" to make sure it is not cross threaded. If the mounting tube is cross threaded it can pop the threads once it starts to load up from compressing the pump into the O ring. Give that video a watch and try that.

Sorry for not posting the link but I got an email saying I need to stop posting those Youtube video links in here as that is selling and is verboten.









If that doesn't get you sorted out let me know and we can figure out what the issue is no worries =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackseep*
> 
> What is the outside diameter of the MMRS?
> 
> If I were to do an end cap, fill/drain port base and fill/drain port cap with 100mm of tube. How long would it be?
> Or, an end cap, a coupler, fill/drain port base and fill/drain port cap with two 50mm of tube. How long would it be?
> 
> Thanks


Fill port = 41mm so x 2 = 82mm + 100mm tube = 182mm.

using a coupler and two 50mm tubes with fill / drain port end caps adds 24mm so 206mm.

If you click on the images in this thread box on the top right there was a chart posted that has all the part dimensions on it. The listed tube length is what it adds--so a 100mm tube adds 100mm to the length.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Fill port = 41mm so x 2 = 82mm + 100mm tube = 182mm.
> 
> using a coupler and two 50mm tubes with fill / drain port end caps adds 24mm so 206mm.
> 
> If you click on the images in this thread box on the top right there was a chart posted that has all the part dimensions on it. The listed tube length is what it adds--so a 100mm tube adds 100mm to the length.


I was also wondering about dimensions, and had missed the dimensional sketch posts, thank you.
Do the tubes recess into the caps and coupler some distance that needs to be subtracted from the total due to overlap?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> I was also wondering about dimensions, and had missed the dimensional sketch posts, thank you.
> Do the tubes recess into the caps and coupler some distance that needs to be subtracted from the total due to overlap?


They do but the listed dimension is nominal--those recesses are included. The tubes actual length might be 106mm for example but it's installed length is 100mm.


----------



## ruffhi

I've noticed that the 'joiners' have one or two port options. What about a zero port option? I am thinking of having a res with 3 color tubes and want to set it up as ...

- top cover (no ports)
- 100mm blue tube
- joiner (no ports)
- 50mm white tube
- joiner (two ports - one in-take, the other temp probe)
- 100mm green tube
- drain port round cap
- drain port base


Spoiler: Picture of dual D5 set up



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Below is a picture of a dual D5 set up.






I can't seem to see a joiner with no ports anywhere. BTW - I can put all of the above together (ex-no port joiner) for less than $100 at PPCS.


----------



## Radnad

Yea I want to reiterate and thank boxgods once again for keeping the cost of these beauties real for us commoners. I've almost got all my parts picked out and still under $100, that's a steal for this eliteness!


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Hmm...a lot of info there =)
> 
> So you have two molded D5 TRP parts, two black motor mounting tubes, and one blue motor mounting tube tube. One of the TRP parts works fine with all three motor mounting tubes. The other TRP part works with the blue mounting tube but not with either black one?
> 
> I have posted links to the installation video farther back in this thread that show how I back the mounting tube out a few revolutions till it "clicks" to make sure it is not cross threaded. If the mounting tube is cross threaded it can pop the threads once it starts to load up from compressing the pump into the O ring. Give that video a watch and try that.
> 
> Sorry for not posting the link but I got an email saying I need to stop posting those Youtube video links in here as that is selling and is verboten.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that doesn't get you sorted out let me know and we can figure out what the issue is no worries =)


Sorry if I confused you, I wrote that late last night after trying multiple combinations and was a bit tired









Let me try to frame this better. So right now I actually have 4 motor-tubes:
- 2 old ones that came off from bay units (1 black and 1 blue)
- 2 new ones (both black). I bought the 2nd one this week since one of the black one wasn't working last weekend

And I also have 3 TRP parts. Bought the 3rd spare one this week with the tube.

I have seen all the videos and done my best to make sure I am not cross-threading. I have been using the bay reservoir for over a year so a bit familiar with the pump mounting process









Out of the 4 tubes that I have , the blue one works on all TRP parts. One of the black one is also working, haven't checked it on all TRP caps. The other two black tubes aren't working with any of the end-caps. When there is a pump in between, they kind of slip out and become loose. They go in fine when there is no pump.

I managed to get the two reservoirs together with 1 black and 1 blue that are working and did some leak testing overnight.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Sorry if I confused you, I wrote that late last night after trying multiple combinations and was a bit tired
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let me try to frame this better. So right now I actually have 4 motor-tubes:
> - 2 old ones that came off from bay units (1 black and 1 blue)
> - 2 new ones (both black). I bought the 2nd one this week since one of the black one wasn't working last weekend
> 
> And I also have 3 TRP parts. Bought the 3rd spare one this week with the tube.
> 
> I have seen all the videos and done my best to make sure I am not cross-threading. I have been using the bay reservoir for over a year so a bit familiar with the pump mounting process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of the 4 tubes that I have , the blue one works on all TRP parts. One of the black one is also working, haven't checked it on all TRP caps. The other two black tubes aren't working with any of the end-caps. When there is a pump in between, they kind of slip out and become loose. They go in fine when there is no pump.
> 
> I managed to get the two reservoirs together with 1 black and 1 blue that are working and did some leak testing overnight.


I had figured you were good with the motor mounting tubes because you have had the M2 bay reservoirs...the odd thing is from your description I can't figure out which part is "bad" as every part seems to work with at least SOME other part combination...trying to use a process of elimination.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Yea I want to reiterate and thank boxgods once again for keeping the cost of these beauties real for us commoners. I've almost got all my parts picked out and still under $100, that's a steal for this eliteness!


Thanks =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've noticed that the 'joiners' have one or two port options. What about a zero port option? I am thinking of having a res with 3 color tubes and want to set it up as ...
> 
> - top cover (no ports)
> - 100mm blue tube
> - joiner (no ports)
> - 50mm white tube
> - joiner (two ports - one in-take, the other temp probe)
> - 100mm green tube
> - drain port round cap
> - drain port base
> 
> I can't seem to see a joiner with no ports anywhere. BTW - I can put all of the above together (ex-no port joiner) for less than $100 at PPCS.


I had not considered a coupler without ports...not sure why as now that you mention it...seems sort of obvious.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I had not considered a coupler without ports...not sure why as now that you mention it...seems sort of obvious.


This is why forums such as this exist ... so that we can get better solutions that any one person can arrive at.


----------



## kaistledine

These looks awesome !


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I had figured you were good with the motor mounting tubes because you have had the M2 bay reservoirs...the odd thing is from your description I can't figure out which part is "bad" as every part seems to work with at least SOME other part combination...trying to use a process of elimination.


Yea, I am kinda confused too that's why I bought a spare TRP end-cap in case it was faulty.

If it helps, did some more testing today morning on the two black tubes that aren't working. I took the two old back-plates that came off from the bay reservoirs and I was able to mount a pump on the both back-plates without any issues. But the same D5 tubes don't work when I try to mount the pump on the spare TRP end-cap that I have.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Yea, I am kinda confused too that's why I bought a spare TRP end-cap in case it was faulty.
> 
> If it helps, did some more testing today morning on the two black tubes that aren't working. I took the two old back-plates that came off from the bay reservoirs and I was able to mount a pump on the both back-plates without any issues. But the same D5 tubes don't work when I try to mount the pump on the spare TRP end-cap that I have.


Does the old blue motor mounting tube that works on the TRP parts also work on the old M2 back plates?


----------



## zerone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Does the old blue motor mounting tube that works on the TRP parts also work on the old M2 back plates?


Yea, it should be. Didn't try it today since its installed on one of the reservoirs but I was using it with the bay reservoirs until last week when I took everything apart.


----------



## Mystriss

ERMGD! Look what my mailman brought me tonight!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> ERMGD! Look what my mailman brought me tonight!


In case you missed the post earlier in this thread, somehow those were assembled without the 6 screws on the front. The screws are for aesthetics only so the pump is perfectly usable but I need to send you the screws. If you can email me your shipping address I will get them out to you ASAP.

Sorry for the inconvenience.


----------



## xerythul

Think I could get a set of those screws from you in white, Gene?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Think I could get a set of those screws from you in white, Gene?


Yup. Just email me your shipping info. (make sure to mention you need the white ones as I will forget).

Sorry again for the mix up guys...I know it is not an acceptable reason but the sheer number of part numbers and products for this launch was pretty daunting.


----------



## DNMock

Whelp, no dice finding a silicone hose to use to hold the form









Forced to summon my inner McGuyver:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Looks like there won't be any bending til next weekend while I wait for this baby to cure


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Whelp, no dice finding a silicone hose to use to hold the form
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Forced to summon my inner McGuyver:


I will be a bit surprised if it does cure by then...some other possible options:

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/en/ultra-flexible-fuel-filler-hose-51mm-2

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Flexible-Fuel-Oil-57mm-2-25-2-1-4-Cell-Tank-Filler-Hose-Per-Inch-/141800146628


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I will be a bit surprised if it does cure by then...some other possible options:
> 
> http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/en/ultra-flexible-fuel-filler-hose-51mm-2
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Flexible-Fuel-Oil-57mm-2-25-2-1-4-Cell-Tank-Filler-Hose-Per-Inch-/141800146628


Saw those, was worried the ribbing would cause warping on the inside of the tube though.

Also thinking of using just a sheet of lycra fabric and just rolling it up. Figured the best course of action would be to try and emulate the silicone tube I got from y'all when I was doing some hardline tubing a while back though. Why innovate when you can emulate


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Saw those, was worried the ribbing would cause warping on the inside of the tube though.
> 
> Also thinking of using just a sheet of lycra fabric and just rolling it up. Figured the best course of action would be to try and emulate the silicone tube I got from y'all when I was doing some hardline tubing a while back though. Why innovate when you can emulate


I just wonder if the silicone in your mold will cure all the way through? Not saying I know it won't--I have no idea--just thinking it will "skin over" and curing will stop. Might try a warm oven...again just guessing.

Keep us posted. Any wagers on who posts the first sex toy reference/joke? If DB were in this thread...


----------



## Origondoo

This maybe was asked several times, but









When is the estimated availability in Europe for Monsoon MMRS?

Also a question regarding the 'fill port' end cap. Can it be just screwed to the bottom to make so the only fixation of the res? Kind of free standing res


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Origondoo*
> 
> This maybe was asked several times, but
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When is the estimated availability in Europe for Monsoon MMRS?
> 
> Also a question regarding the 'fill port' end cap. Can it be just screwed to the bottom to make so the only fixation of the res? Kind of free standing res


Probably December for launch in Europe.

Yes the fill / drain ports work as mounts also. You can get a better idea of the working as mounts from the link below. It shows both a fill AND drain port being used but one works fine if that is what you prefer.


----------



## xerythul

Another preview. This is a standalone mount on grasshopper, with split res on grasshopper and mounted through circular fill drain port.


----------



## zerone

Just finished the first iteration of my build with the new reservoirs, so I thought would share some pics here. Sorry about the cell phone quality pics, don't have a proper camera right now. With the build, still need to address some color mismatches with the pump motor tubes and tweak the lighting a little bit. The lighting is actually white, some it came out blueish in the pic.


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Probably December for launch in Europe.
> 
> Yes the fill / drain ports work as mounts also. You can get a better idea of the working as mounts from the link below. It shows both a fill AND drain port being used but one works fine if that is what you prefer.


Thanks for reply.

Then I have to wait until the Europe release now


----------



## Mystriss

Spoiler: Xerythul



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Another preview. This is a standalone mount on grasshopper, with split res on grasshopper and mounted through circular fill drain port.








Spoiler: zerone



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Just finished the first iteration of my build with the new reservoirs, so I thought would share some pics here. Sorry about the cell phone quality pics, don't have a proper camera right now. With the build, still need to address some color mismatches with the pump motor tubes and tweak the lighting a little bit. The lighting is actually white, some it came out blueish in the pic.






Those look sick you guys! That purple is awesome, and those lights are great. I can't wait till I get mine. I'm still fiddling with making it fit heh


----------



## xerythul

That's about 85% of the build in the pictures I posted, making it fit... The case itself is about 12"x12"x12" and I'm squeezing in three rads, a tube res, fan controller, sli video cards, etc etc So this MMRS setup is a blessing from the gods for me!


----------



## coookiemunster

So here is the set up:




I shot 2 light dusting coats of self etching primer and then about 5 very light coats of flat white. they didn't turn out too bad but last night we had a 15 degree (C) temperature drop (and snow) and the parts were drying out in the garage so for some reason one of the caps had some funky strangeness happen to the surface probably as a result of the cold. its only noticeable if you look really close so I think I will let it cure for a few days inside in the warm and see how it looks.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerone*
> 
> Just finished the first iteration of my build with the new reservoirs, so I thought would share some pics here. Sorry about the cell phone quality pics, don't have a proper camera right now. With the build, still need to address some color mismatches with the pump motor tubes and tweak the lighting a little bit. The lighting is actually white, some it came out blueish in the pic.


Looks awesome even with a cell phone camera =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> That's about 85% of the build in the pictures I posted, making it fit... The case itself is about 12"x12"x12" and I'm squeezing in three rads, a tube res, fan controller, sli video cards, etc etc So this MMRS setup is a blessing from the gods for me!


I did a 13 x 13 x 13 cube build once with fold out gull wing doors...did not put half that much stuff in it and it still felt like doing micro surgery--had to get my wife and her tiny little hands for some of the connections.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> I shot 2 light dusting coats of self etching primer and then about 5 very light coats of flat white. they didn't turn out too bad but last night we had a 15 degree (C) temperature drop (and snow) and the parts were drying out in the garage so for some reason one of the caps had some funky strangeness happen to the surface probably as a result of the cold. its only noticeable if you look really close so I think I will let it cure for a few days inside in the warm and see how it looks.


Nice setup for shooting the paint!

The parts look like they were born that color to me. Great work.


----------



## xerythul

It's one of the reasons I am opting not to do a traditional OCN build log. I have taken apart and rebuilt this thing so many times now the picture documentation alone would be exhausting.


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah...but if we didn't get a huge kick out of the building process we would be using a Dell or HP right? Once it is in your blood...I still remember quite vividly the first time I key chained a (then) very expensive 233 MHz CPU I pushed just a little too far...had a passively cooled Matrox Millennium G400 that I "modded" by screwing a tiny little fan onto the heat sink. Hacked a side and top window into a Dragon case and I kid you not used flash light bulbs to light the inside.

Then cross drilled a chunk of copper to make a water block and it used silver soldered copper tube...using the pencil trick to unlock CPU's.

As hobbies go this one is pretty awesome =)


----------



## xerythul

Haha I like to think of those as the wild-west days of PC modding and overclocking, before it became a huge moneymaking industry.


----------



## DNMock

Pulled the 3/4" inch dowel rod (had it wrapped in wax paper so it came right out) out of the silicone mold today. It's actually curing quite nicely so far. I think it might actually work. Having it shut in the guest bathroom with the bathtub and sinks filled with water, a few fans and a space heater set to 90F probably isn't hurting it either.


----------



## ruffhi

Question ... the stand alone pump 'cover' ... does it take this pump (Watercool WCP D5-PWM) or this one (Swiftech MCP655 Series 12 VDC D5)?

The watercooled one says it is 65 x 65 x 57 while the swiftech says it is 87mm diameter. Or are they the same size and the ribbed collar on the swiftech is throwing me off?

What is the diameter of the pump 'cover'? I ask because I only have 82mm to play with in my preferred pump housing site.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Question ... the stand alone pump 'cover' ... does it take this pump (Watercool WCP D5-PWM) or this one (Swiftech MCP655 Series 12 VDC D5)?
> 
> The watercooled one says it is 65 x 65 x 57 while the swiftech says it is 87mm diameter. Or are they the same size and the ribbed collar on the swiftech is throwing me off?
> 
> What is the diameter of the pump 'cover'? I ask because I only have 82mm to play with in my preferred pump housing site.


thats comparing a naked D5 to a housed D5 so the Swiftech size is including the housing. any naked D5 is all the same size.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Question ... the stand alone pump 'cover' ... does it take this pump (Watercool WCP D5-PWM) or this one (Swiftech MCP655 Series 12 VDC D5)?
> 
> The watercooled one says it is 65 x 65 x 57 while the swiftech says it is 87mm diameter. Or are they the same size and the ribbed collar on the swiftech is throwing me off?
> 
> What is the diameter of the pump 'cover'? I ask because I only have 82mm to play with in my preferred pump housing site.


The installed diameter is 77mm


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> thats comparing a naked D5 to a housed D5 so the Swiftech size is including the housing. any naked D5 is all the same size.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The installed diameter is 77mm


Thank you both very much. The pump fits in required space and I am happy!


----------



## coookiemunster

Assembly complete. I had some trouble with a few of the ports on one of the end caps. the threads were not cut very cleanly so i had a lot of difficulty with some of the plugs and one of the fittings not wanting to thread in properly. I just used a 1/2 -20NF tap threaded in by hand (gently) and it cleaned the threads right up.
I will use some model paint touch up a few scuffs once I have it assembled in the case.

Overall I really like the look and can not say enough about the fantastic design, quality, aesthetics and value of these things. Well done Monsoon, well done.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Assembly complete. I had some trouble with a few of the ports on one of the end caps. the threads were not cut very cleanly so i had a lot of difficulty with some of the plugs and one of the fittings not wanting to thread in properly. I just used a 1/2 -20NF tap threaded in by hand (gently) and it cleaned the threads right up.
> I will use some model paint touch up a few scuffs once I have it assembled in the case.
> 
> Overall I really like the look and can not say enough about the fantastic design, quality, aesthetics and value of these things. Well done Monsoon, well done.


Let me be the first to say you NAILED IT!

Very impressive work there indeed























Even better because you took the time to show everyone how you did it.


----------



## dseg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Assembly complete. I had some trouble with a few of the ports on one of the end caps. the threads were not cut very cleanly so i had a lot of difficulty with some of the plugs and one of the fittings not wanting to thread in properly. I just used a 1/2 -20NF tap threaded in by hand (gently) and it cleaned the threads right up.
> I will use some model paint touch up a few scuffs once I have it assembled in the case.
> 
> Overall I really like the look and can not say enough about the fantastic design, quality, aesthetics and value of these things. Well done Monsoon, well done.


Nice paint job. I would deff buy these monsoon products if they made white end caps...
Unfortunately, I would have to paint them white like you.


----------



## xerythul

I can understand wanting to buy a product that is the color etc that you want, but given the existing options and modularity of this system Monsoon has out is it really a lot of effort to paint a few things? I don't think so...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've noticed that the 'joiners' have one or two port options. What about a zero port option? I am thinking of having a res with 3 color tubes and want to set it up as ...
> 
> - top cover (no ports)
> - 100mm blue tube
> - joiner (no ports)
> - 50mm white tube
> - joiner (two ports - one in-take, the other temp probe)
> - 100mm green tube
> - drain port round cap
> - drain port base
> 
> I can't seem to see a joiner with no ports anywhere. BTW - I can put all of the above together (ex-no port joiner) for less than $100 at PPCS.
> 
> 
> 
> I had not considered a coupler without ports...not sure why as now that you mention it...seems sort of obvious.
Click to expand...

Not to be snarky, but when you can rotate the connection plate, I really don't see a need for a portless connection plate. Sure it would save us about $9(plugs). So I can see why one wasn't turned out.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Really when I was going over it in the planning stage I have a vague memory of why I didn't do a zero port coupler...for the life of me I can't recall what it was now though. May just have been cost--the mold tooling is very expensive and we had to cut the number of parts down . I will try to add one at some point.

*EDIT*

I found my design notes and the consensus, (in house) for a coupler with no ports was what purpose would it really serve? The thinking being how often would someone for example connect two 100mm tubes with a zero port coupler when they could just use a single 200mm tube? Reservoirs over 300mm are very rare and we offer single tubes to 300mm...so a zero port coupler seemed like a part that would not sell enough to warrant the mold costs.


----------



## ruffhi

I was looking at that part as I wanted either two (or three) different colors in my glass ... or one clear, one frosted / reactor style.

As it turns out, I don't have the room for 3 x 50mm glass tubes so I have cut it down to 2 x 50mm ... and I want ports on that connection.

So ... now I don't have a need for it







.

Re just turning the res around and plugging one of the current ports ...

_oh come on! You don't see the engine core in voyager with plugged ports do you???_


----------



## Mystriss

Well I'd want a zero port coupler, agreed it's completely non-functional, it'd be all for looks







On the plus side I can [carefully] drill new holes and hide the ports on the bottom side of the res and I'll get the look I want. So in the long run it's probably not worth the cost of molds heh


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Well I'd want a zero port coupler, agreed it's completely non-functional, it'd be all for looks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the plus side I can [carefully] drill new holes and hide the ports on the bottom side of the res and I'll get the look I want. So in the long run it's probably not worth the cost of molds heh


Agreed. More so if your reservoir is vertical, located in front of several windows and really has no place to hide unused ports.


----------



## BoxGods

I don't disagree. Just had to prioritize. Would have loved to make a zero port coupler and a coupler that divided a single reservoir into two reservoirs, gone with 8 tension rods instead of 6, had an adjustable length coupler and several other items I had designed up but all of those things would have driven up the price.

It is like the white parts above. They look so cool I would love to do a run of white parts and I know eventually a hundred or two would sell...the issue is the 4,800 left over on the shelf. That is 4,800 of EACH part. I also know this is what would happen, 'Hey guys here are the white parts you asked for". "Awesome! When are you going to do red and blue?"


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Let me be the first to say you NAILED IT!
> 
> Very impressive work there indeed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even better because you took the time to show everyone how you did it.


Thanks very much!!


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dseg*
> 
> Nice paint job. I would deff buy these monsoon products if they made white end caps...
> Unfortunately, I would have to paint them white like you.


Thanks!!


----------



## ruffhi

I've worked out the one I want to order. I'll post a SketchUp of it later this week. If only there was a website that you could use to construct / look at various reservoir options.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've worked out the one I want to order. I'll post a SketchUp of it later this week. If only there was a website that you could use to construct / look at various reservoir options.


Actually an OCN forum member is working on one...I have been sworn to secrecy but looks pretty cool so far =)

I will get to making sketch up models of the parts when I have two spare minutes to rub together. I don't suppose there is a handy dandy Solidworks to sketch up converter by any chance?


----------



## BoxGods

Bit of an update for you guys.

The anti-vortex part should be here Friday so I can see how well it works over the weekend. I will get a little video of it in action to share. I think I like the screwed on version better than the pressed in pins version as it allows for users to "tinker" more easily. Cross your fingers =)

I have also gotten to (hopefully) final versions of the mating kits. Including a screen grab below. These hopefully address some of the "I wish there was a part like this" list you guys have mentioned.

#1 allows you to mate a TRP pump head to a coupler for the "Blender Style" D5 pumps. It will include a 10mm tall ring and the longer screws needed.

#2 allows you to mate two couplers together. it also contains the 10mm tall ring and longer set screws needed.

#3 allows you to mate two couplers together but includes an internal divider (shown in red) that makes them two different reservoirs.

You could also use one of the mating kits to mate a coupler to an end cap...though I am not sure why anyone would want to...the option is there anyway. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions/thoughts.


----------



## xerythul

Honestly during my process i considered whether trying to put two pieces together like that would be beneficial or not, and the one case it would help me is a coupler with ports to a fill/drain port. My res is horizontal, but i plan on using the fdp with it vertical. That being said when its horizontal i lose the option of ports on that side of the res.

This alleviates that for sure haha.


----------



## BoxGods

I can see where mating to the fill/drain port could be useful.

Just had another thought...a little hard to explain, but picture a case panel--could be top/front/sides--and there is a hole in the panel the same size as the ID of the couplers, and you put a coupler on either side of the panel and when they are compressed they form a seal. Think of them as bulkhead pass thru. Be a cool way to have a reservoir sticking out of the case, or passing through interior case partitions.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Bit of an update for you guys.
> 
> The anti-vortex part should be here Friday so I can see how well it works over the weekend. I will get a little video of it in action to share. I think I like the screwed on version better than the pressed in pins version as it allows for users to "tinker" more easily. Cross your fingers =)
> 
> I have also gotten to (hopefully) final versions of the mating kits. Including a screen grab below. These hopefully address some of the "I wish there was a part like this" list you guys have mentioned.
> 
> #1 allows you to mate a TRP pump head to a coupler for the "Blender Style" D5 pumps. It will include a 10mm tall ring and the longer screws needed.
> 
> #2 allows you to mate two couplers together. it also contains the 10mm tall ring and longer set screws needed.
> 
> #3 allows you to mate two couplers together but includes an internal divider (shown in red) that makes them two different reservoirs.
> 
> You could also use one of the mating kits to mate a coupler to an end cap...though I am not sure why anyone would want to...the option is there anyway. Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions/thoughts.


oooooo DUAL RES!!!! OMG that's perfect for my build because I've got my GPU's on one loop and my CPU and some other stuff on another loop! How long before we can throw money at it?

...GDI Now I have to rethink my plan.


----------



## BoxGods

Machining the parts for testing now...if all goes well PPCS will have the kits in stock probably about this time in December. These are not too complicated so maybe a little sooner.


----------



## DNMock

Soon...

Silicone tube is curing nicely, got my exhaust pipe cut down the middle (filled in the ridges with bondo and sanded it smooth to make a nice curve), and my 4 300mm reservoirs are here.

High degree of confidence in this going down well.


----------



## Ceadderman

^^^Are you using the exhaust pipe for aesthetic purposes? Do you have a mockup of your goal that you could post?









Might help if you posted that to give us an idea of what you're up to.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ^^^Are you using the exhaust pipe for aesthetic purposes? Do you have a mockup of your goal that you could post?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Might help if you posted that to give us an idea of what you're up to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Mentioned earlier in the thread it might be cool to try and bend the reservoir to make a curve. Gene said it sounded like a cool idea so I figured I'd give it a try

Trying to pull something like that off.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






]

Gene was nice enough to do up a little sketch on what the best possible inner diameter curve would be for bending the res at 90 degrees:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







That exhaust pipe was within a few millimeters of those specs, so I added a couple millimeters thick layer of bondo to it to make it as close as possible.

Third object there is a cylinder filled with 100% silicone caulk I'm waiting to finish curing to put inside the reservoir to make sure it keeps it's shape while it bends. Couldn't find anything pre-made that I thought might work, so tryin to make my own.

TL;DR - I'm trying something incredibly stupid.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would take the tube to an exhaust shop with something(hemp rope maybe) and see if they would let you use one of their mandrels to bend it to shape if you don't have access to an industrial plummer's brake.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would take the tube to an exhaust shop with something(hemp rope maybe) and see if they would let you use one of their mandrels to bend it to shape if you don't have access to an industrial plummer's brake.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


In hindsight that woulda been the best idea for sure. Unfortunately I've already spent multiple hours doing the bondo thing and now aligns correctly and fits the curvature of the pipe.

Been takin pictures along the way of the process so if it works I'll do up a little tutorial. I can already tell you the "Don't make the mistake I made and..." part will be strong in such a post.


----------



## ruffhi

I've just finished knocking together (my SketchUp skills are slowly increasing) two options for a monsoon modular reservoir system for my future, yet to be, CaseLabs S5 computer.

The first option is a shorter version, attached at the top of the S5 case and just hanging there. A in-take tube will come from the GPU and an exhaust tube will go straight out the bottom, through the mid chassis and into the pump that pushes the liquid to the radiators, etc, etc. I'm going to need that vertical pump stand at some point.









The second option is longer, bursts through the mid chassis and has the pump attached at the bottom of the reservoir.









So ... what do you think? #1 or #2 ... or something else? Pros and cons?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've just finished knocking together (my SketchUp skills are slowly increasing) two options for a monsoon modular reservoir system for my future, yet to be, CaseLabs S5 computer.
> 
> The first option is a shorter version, attached at the top of the S5 case and just hanging there. A in-take tube will come from the GPU and an exhaust tube will go straight out the bottom, through the mid chassis and into the pump that pushes the liquid to the radiators, etc, etc. I'm going to need that vertical pump stand at some point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second option is longer, bursts through the mid chassis and has the pump attached at the bottom of the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So ... what do you think? #1 or #2 ... or something else? Pros and cons?


Option 2 looks cooler imo

If you are torn, do option 1 first, then if you don't like it go to option 2, but if you do option 2, there won't be any going back to option 1


----------



## Radnad

Hanging res fo sho! We all really want to see that, there is no way it won't look incredibly awesome!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> In hindsight that woulda been the best idea for sure. Unfortunately I've already spent multiple hours doing the bondo thing and now aligns correctly and fits the curvature of the pipe.
> 
> Been takin pictures along the way of the process so if it works I'll do up a little tutorial. I can already tell you the "Don't make the mistake I made and..." part will be strong in such a post.


I am still not clear what the exhaust tube is for--are you going to use it as your mandrel or "form"?

Speaking of hindsight...agreed--the second I saw "hemp rope" I had a DOH moment









Are you going to try using a heat gun still or just go for the oven approach?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've just finished knocking together (my SketchUp skills are slowly increasing) two options for a monsoon modular reservoir system for my future, yet to be, CaseLabs S5 computer.
> 
> The first option is a shorter version, attached at the top of the S5 case and just hanging there. A in-take tube will come from the GPU and an exhaust tube will go straight out the bottom, through the mid chassis and into the pump that pushes the liquid to the radiators, etc, etc. I'm going to need that vertical pump stand at some point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The second option is longer, bursts through the mid chassis and has the pump attached at the bottom of the reservoir.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So ... what do you think? #1 or #2 ... or something else? Pros and cons?


I suggest a slight variation of option #2. Use the mating kit I posted a few posts back and sandwich the cases divider panel between two couplers. Like a bulkhead type pass thru. Depending on how much room you have in the bottom compartment you can go with #1 or #2 in the screen grab below. If your space limited #1 and if you have room for some reservoir tube #2 in the image below.

It is essentially the same as your option #2 but the couplers act as covers--like trim pieces--for the holes you drill/cut into that divider panel. Makes it much cleaner and more "finished" looking. You also avoid the reservoir and tension rods rattling / vibrating against the holes in the divider panel generating noise.



Also--excellent sketch up and cool use of MMRS =


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Option 2 looks cooler imo
> 
> If you are torn, do option 1 first, then if you don't like it go to option 2, but if you do option 2, there won't be any going back to option 1


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Hanging res fo sho! We all really want to see that, there is no way it won't look incredibly awesome!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I suggest a slight variation of option #2. Use the mating kit I posted a few posts back and sandwich the cases divider panel between two couplers. Like a bulkhead type pass thru. Depending on how much room you have in the bottom compartment you can go with #1 or #2 in the screen grab below. If your space limited #1 and if you have room for some reservoir tube #2 in the image below.
> 
> It is essentially the same as your option #2 but the couplers act as covers--like trim pieces--for the holes you drill/cut into that divider panel. Makes it much cleaner and more "finished" looking. You also avoid the reservoir and tension rods rattling / vibrating against the holes in the divider panel generating noise.
> 
> Also--excellent sketch up and cool use of MMRS =


Thanks for the comments. Good suggestion re the couplers / covers ... but I don't think I can do that short of cutting down one of the glass tubes. I think I will go with #1 for the initial view with BoxGods' #2 variant as a backup.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> In hindsight that woulda been the best idea for sure. Unfortunately I've already spent multiple hours doing the bondo thing and now aligns correctly and fits the curvature of the pipe.
> 
> Been takin pictures along the way of the process so if it works I'll do up a little tutorial. I can already tell you the "Don't make the mistake I made and..." part will be strong in such a post.
> 
> 
> 
> I am still not clear what the exhaust tube is for--are you going to use it as your mandrel or "form"?
> 
> Speaking of hindsight...agreed--the second I saw "hemp rope" I had a DOH moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to try using a heat gun still or just go for the oven approach?
Click to expand...

I suggested hemp rope as a bending insert. Unless someone has a bendable silicon insert which is more heat resistant and flexible. Nylon rope isn't heat resistant. I know this cause my Rate in service had me working closely with tethering lines.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the comments. Good suggestion re the couplers / covers ... but I don't think I can do that short of cutting down one of the glass tubes. I think I will go with #1 for the initial view with BoxGods' #2 variant as a backup.


No cutting down of the tubes is required...the 9mm long tube in the mating kit (at 9mm I guess it is really a "ring" not a tube) is used between the two couplers--or between a TRP and a coupler if space constrained. Depending on the thickness of the divider panel you might be able to leave the flange on the ring. If not it is only 1mm thick plastic and could be easily and quickly removed--probably a 10 minute job--and since it is not seen it doesn't matter how it looks after you hacked off the flange. The ring would also be an excellent template for locating and drilling the holes thru your case divider panel.

Here is what the mating kit ring looks like. The kit will likely be at or about $10, (I still don't know costs yet so that is only an estimate) and will also include a second ring that is solid in the center for those who want to divide a reservoir into two reservoirs.



I am not pushing you that way of course--just making sure you know all of your options so you have the best chance of success =)


----------



## ruffhi

I think we have some level of mis-communication going ... as I don't see how to do what I want to do and include this mating 'ring'.

The distance from the top of the case to the mid-chassis is 227mm (inner dimension). The panels are 2mm thick. I *definitely want to anchor the top of the reservoir to the top of the case* ... so ... how do I make sure that the body of the reservoir finishes just at the right place to put the mating ring on? Isn't cutting the glass tube down my only option?

Top section - 41mm high ... distance from top of case is 41mm
1st glass tube - 100mm ... distance from top of case is 141mm
2 port coupler - 29mm ... distance from top of case is 170mm
2nd glass tube - 50mm ... distance from top of case is 230mm

That is 3 mm too much ignoring the width of your mating ring. So if I cut a 50mm down to 45mm, assuming the mating ring is 2mm thick ... it would all line up.

Here is another idea ... what if your mating ring ...



Spoiler: pic of mating ring







... didn't have that 'flan' in the middle ... instead it allowed for a glass tube to pass right through the middle. That would make the mating ring also act / work as a collar and you could slide it up and down the glass tube as required to hide any drilling dings.


----------



## BoxGods

The FDP part has the ability to add spacers. There is a spacer version of the round cap that lets you add up to 12mm of spacers. So...too long doesn't work but if you can figure out a configuration that is 1 to 12mm too short you are all set.

In the FDP video I mention that I was 6mm too short so I used a 3mm spacer on each end...same principle. I point to where they go though they are a bit hard to see.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am still not clear what the exhaust tube is for--are you going to use it as your mandrel or "form"?
> 
> Speaking of hindsight...agreed--the second I saw "hemp rope" I had a DOH moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you going to try using a heat gun still or just go for the oven approach?


Yeah, it's the mandrel. What do you think on the heating process? I got 2 heat guns, so in my head I was picturing using one to heat up the pipe being used for the mandrel while having the 2nd warming on around the tube.

edit: oh and I got the paper and such off the silicone today. has done a pretty good job of curing, but the only thing I could think about as it hung limp in my hand was your sex toy comment. Once this is all said and done, I'll have to figure out how to turn it into a Christmas ornament. I'm sure my girlfriends parents will love it when I sneak it onto their tree.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Yeah, it's the mandrel. What do you think on the heating process? I got 2 heat guns, so in my head I was picturing using one to heat up the pipe being used for the mandrel while having the 2nd warming on around the tube.
> 
> edit: oh and I got the paper and such off the silicone today. has done a pretty good job of curing, but the only thing I could think about as it hung limp in my hand was your sex toy comment. Once this is all said and done, I'll have to figure out how to turn it into a Christmas ornament. I'm sure my girlfriends parents will love it when I sneak it onto their tree.


Ho-Ho-Ho...

Not sure I would heat the mandrel...not sure I would use a round tubular item as the mandrel for that matter. Unless you cut it in half along the length and intend to use the inside of one half maybe? As for heating...I guess two heat guns would work if you had them positioned about 180 degrees frome each other and slightly off set--be sure to keep the tube moving and heat the entire length of the bend zone.

Also...just from my personal experience bending plastic over the years don't be discouraged if you don't get it right the first time as you almost never will because as a process a lot of it relies on feel or touch. A bit more "art" than mechanical in other words.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Ho-Ho-Ho...
> 
> Not sure I would heat the mandrel...not sure I would use a round tubular item as the mandrel for that matter. Unless you cut it in half along the length and intend to use the inside of one half maybe? As for heating...I guess two heat guns would work if you had them positioned about 180 degrees frome each other and slightly off set--be sure to keep the tube moving and heat the entire length of the bend zone.
> 
> Also...just from my personal experience bending plastic over the years don't be discouraged if you don't get it right the first time as you almost never will because as a process a lot of it relies on feel or touch. A bit more "art" than mechanical in other words.


Yup, it's the inside I was planning on using for the mandrel.



Utilizing the 2nd heat in some way maybe because I'm a little worried about the overall area getting hot enough to make a decent bend without burning or melting it. Just a wee bit more surface area to cover than on a regular 12mm pipe.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Yup, it's the inside I was planning on using for the mandrel.
> 
> 
> 
> Utilizing the 2nd heat in some way maybe because I'm a little worried about the overall area getting hot enough to make a decent bend without burning or melting it. Just a wee bit more surface area to cover than on a regular 12mm pipe.


For sure. I would not put them side by side though. I would have them 180 degrees of each other and slightly off set.. This should be really interesting. Whatever the outcome my hats off to you for even trying =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Yup, it's the inside I was planning on using for the mandrel.
> 
> 
> 
> Utilizing the 2nd heat in some way maybe because I'm a little worried about the overall area getting hot enough to make a decent bend without burning or melting it. Just a wee bit more surface area to cover than on a regular 12mm pipe.


Don't keep us in suspense...how did it go?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Don't keep us in suspense...how did it go?


Sorry, was letting the silicone cure a little while longer...

Anyway, heat guns were a no go. Even with two going for 30 minutes, wasn't able to get it heated fast enough evenly to get it work.

So went to the oven and that did the job, was able to get it to bend. Unfortunately, hadn't tried the oven method before and didn't realize gas ovens were a bad idea...

So after all that I got a curved reservoir that looks like an aborted fetus and a dildo...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







With an electric oven, and a few more trial runs seems like it should be doable.

Before sacrificing another reservoir though, I'm gonna try a different approach...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The inner diameter is at 60mm so in theory I should be able to just use a hose clamp and maybe some silicone gasket maker and get the curve just fine.

This brings me to my next question...

That silicone hose elbow, think it would be reasonable to attach it to the a fill/drain port base? As in Reservoir ---> Fill port base ----> silicone hose ---> Fill port base ---> Reservoir? Or, should I go Reservoir ---> Silicone hose ---> Reservoir?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Sorry, was letting the silicone cure a little while longer...
> 
> Anyway, heat guns were a no go. Even with two going for 30 minutes, wasn't able to get it heated fast enough evenly to get it work.
> 
> So went to the oven and that did the job, was able to get it to bend. Unfortunately, hadn't tried the oven method before and didn't realize gas ovens were a bad idea...
> 
> So after all that I got a curved reservoir that looks like an aborted fetus and a dildo...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With an electric oven, and a few more trial runs seems like it should be doable.
> 
> Before sacrificing another reservoir though, I'm gonna try a different approach...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inner diameter is at 60mm so in theory I should be able to just use a hose clamp and maybe some silicone gasket maker and get the curve just fine.
> 
> This brings me to my next question...
> 
> That silicone hose elbow, think it would be reasonable to attach it to the a fill/drain port base? As in Reservoir ---> Fill port base ----> silicone hose ---> Fill port base ---> Reservoir? Or, should I go Reservoir ---> Silicone hose ---> Reservoir?


I have had MUCH worse first attempts at bending...yours still looks like a tube...well sorta...if you hold your head sideways and squint a bit =)

Still seems like you are makng this much harder than it needs to be maybe? Use the FDP parts for external fill port on your desk top and one underneath for a drain port. FDP/50mm tube/EC-SP and connect those to the main tube via short lengths of tube.

Space not permitting...just let me machine you something custom...


----------



## Radnad

ooooo, a 90 degree res tube coupler sounds kind of interesting...


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have had MUCH worse first attempts at bending...yours still looks like a tube...well sorta...if you hold your head sideways and squint a bit =)
> 
> Still seems like you are makng this much harder than it needs to be maybe? Use the FDP parts for external fill port on your desk top and one underneath for a drain port. FDP/50mm tube/EC-SP and connect those to the main tube via short lengths of tube.
> 
> Space not permitting...just let me machine you something custom...


Probably end up doing something like that in the end, but this is an exercise in extravagance and waste!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Probably end up doing something like that in the end, but this is an exercise in extravagance and waste!


In your desk PC building space, how deep is it from the clear top to the bottom of that cavity the reservoir sits in? Give me some dimensions and let me draw something up so you can look it over.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> In your desk PC building space, how deep is it from the clear top to the bottom of that cavity the reservoir sits in? Give me some dimensions and let me draw something up so you can look it over.


Both cabinets are 2' width, 2.5' depth, 3' height.

Left cabinet contains pumps and radiators, right cabinet contains the PC parts.

Here's some pictures from the build log:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Current set-up:



Inside of left cabinet:



Inside of right cabinet:



Clear top view:





None of the reservoir actually goes down into either cabinet. It just rests on top and two 1" holes are drilled on both sides to run tubing down to each cabinet.

A PVC pipe with a regular tube running through it is hidden on the bottom side to connect the loop.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







That's the long and short of the set-up.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Both cabinets are 2' width, 2.5' depth, 3' height.


Ah I got it now...somehow I thought the reservoir was under the desktop. Must be the shine/reflection of the top that gives it that sort of depth illusion.

Well shoot that makes it a LOT easier. I will draw up some custom machined PVC end caps tonight for you to look at.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Ah I got it now...somehow I thought the reservoir was under the desktop. Must be the shine/reflection of the top that gives it that sort of depth illusion.
> 
> Well shoot that makes it a LOT easier. I will draw up some custom machined PVC end caps tonight for you to look at.


Nice, that would help a ton.

Heck 2 solid acrylic blocks like this would be ace as hell:



(doesn't need to be 90mm or anything like that. just for the sake of the little doodle).


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Nice, that would help a ton.
> 
> Heck 2 solid acrylic blocks like this would be ace as hell:
> 
> 
> 
> (doesn't need to be 90mm or anything like that. just for the sake of the little doodle).


I was thinking to match the rest of the parts...this is one option but we could use the side port style with an add on cap of some sort.



Would have hidden downward facing ports and screw holes on the bottom you could drive screws through from the underside of the desk. Pretty basic. Clean.


----------



## Mystriss

!!! Your going to manufacture those for us horizontal res people right?







(Actually I don't think they'd fit in my HTPC case, I'm already pushing it with my length, still pretty darn cool looking.)


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I was thinking to match the rest of the parts...this is one option but we could use the side port style with an add on cap of some sort.
> 
> 
> 
> Would have hidden downward facing ports and screw holes on the bottom you could drive screws through from the underside of the desk. Pretty basic. Clean.


Not what I was thinking, but it will definitely do what I'm wanting and have the added bonus of having value to other customers instead of just being a random, one-off set up.









Well played, Gene, well played.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Not what I was thinking, but it will definitely do what I'm wanting and have the added bonus of having value to other customers instead of just being a random, one-off set up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well played, Gene, well played.


Actually I was pretty much thinking one off set as these don't really do anything you can't do with the mounts and having pass thru ports in what amounts to the "feet" would be a nightmare for me from a support perspective.

If they are not exactly what you were thinking let me know what you want changed and I will change the drawings.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Actually I was pretty much thinking one off set as these don't really do anything you can't do with the mounts and having pass thru ports in what amounts to the "feet" would be a nightmare for me from a support perspective.
> 
> If they are not exactly what you were thinking let me know what you want changed and I will change the drawings.


Bah, in that case don't worry about it. I got it solved.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The silicone elbow will actually just be there to hide the normal flexible tubing connected to the fill/drain ports at the ends.

Turning two bay reservoirs sideways to act as the true fill/drain ports and mask the holes where the tubing enters and exits the cabinets.

You've already wasted a good sum of time on my shenanigans, wouldn't feel right asking you to produce a specialty product as a one-off.

But if it's of any condolence, I got 2,500 mm worth of tube reservoirs and a pair of dual bay reservoirs that should show up tomorrow


----------



## Radnad

Got mine ordered today, woohoo!


----------



## coookiemunster

Any news on the anti-vortex front?

I was thinking of building a divider plate that would be glued in the bottom of the MMRS-SP-3P. I thought I would cut a piece of acrylic 125mm x 50mm drill some holes in it and radius the end about 25mm up and then bend it at the 25mm point to 90 deg with some cut outs to allow for the projection of the future tall lights that will fit into the bottom ports of the MMRS-SP-3P.

Thoughts?


PS. please excuse the crappy sketch - I just graduated from napkins to graph paper...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Bah, in that case don't worry about it. I got it solved.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The silicone elbow will actually just be there to hide the normal flexible tubing connected to the fill/drain ports at the ends.
> 
> Turning two bay reservoirs sideways to act as the true fill/drain ports and mask the holes where the tubing enters and exits the cabinets.
> 
> You've already wasted a good sum of time on my shenanigans, wouldn't feel right asking you to produce a specialty product as a one-off.
> 
> But if it's of any condolence, I got 2,500 mm worth of tube reservoirs and a pair of dual bay reservoirs that should show up tomorrow


You do know it takes about 15 minutes to draw it up in SW and then I hand it off to my guys right? Not like I would be out there programming the machine to cut the part. I offered because I have wanted to do an "in desk" build forever and never seem to get to it =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Any news on the anti-vortex front?
> 
> I was thinking of building a divider plate that would be glued in the bottom of the MMRS-SP-3P. I thought I would cut a piece of acrylic 125mm x 50mm drill some holes in it and radius the end about 25mm up and then bend it at the 25mm point to 90 deg with some cut outs to allow for the projection of the future tall lights that will fit into the bottom ports of the MMRS-SP-3P.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> PS. please excuse the crappy sketch - I just graduated from napkins to graph paper...


Testing has gone well. I am pretty happy with it. Rotational force from the pump is so minimal that if I feed water in a side port that is fclock wise I can actually make the water in the reservoir spin the other direction--not crazy vortex fast but still noticeably the opposite direction.

So short answer, seems to work quite well. Is not a replacement for bleeding the air out of your loop of course but no more air sucking air vortex so "burping the loop" will be a lot easier. We are trying very hard to have the new parts to PPCS by the 23rd give or take a few days.

I will also try to have some video of it working posted this weekend.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You do know it takes about 15 minutes to draw it up in SW and then I hand it off to my guys right? Not like I would be out there programming the machine to cut the part. I offered because I have wanted to do an "in desk" build forever and never seem to get to it =)


Lol, ok. Felt like I've been wasting your time and didn't want to take advantage of your kindness just because you were taking pity on the moron who tried to bend a reservoir.

Tonight when I get home I'll make a legit mock-up out of some foam padding or something and get some pictures of pretty much exactly what I'm thinking. Should make it clear as day. Folks with horizontally mounted reservoirs may be interested in something of the sort too.


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Rotational force from the pump is so minimal that if I feed water in a side port that is fclock wise I can actually make the water in the reservoir spin the other direction--not crazy vortex fast but still noticeably the opposite direction.


I see how that could work really well for the MMRS-TRP but what about the MMRS-SP-3P (or similar) I am using one of the side ports to feed the D5 about 12 inches away from the res and the other side port as the return. with the outlet and return so close to each other i envision a mad swirling vortex of a spinning tornado ready to give my little sister the swirley to end all swirleys.....

maybe i am missing something?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> I see how that could work really well for the MMRS-TRP but what about the MMRS-SP-3P (or similar) I am using one of the side ports to feed the D5 about 12 inches away from the res and the other side port as the return. with the outlet and return so close to each other i envision a mad swirling vortex of a spinning tornado ready to give my little sister the swirley to end all swirleys.....
> 
> maybe i am missing something?


Having water swirling is not really an issue in and of itself--most people actually like how it looks--the problem with a vortex from the D5 is that in shorter reservoirs--like under 150mm tall that "tornado" can reach to the top of the reservoir and if there is any air gap there the pump starts sucking up that air instead of water. As the air is driven through the loop and returned to the reservoir the pump is then driving a lot of air.

The little anti-vortex trident we added stops that vortex from forming. Sounds silly but next time your in the tub and the water is draining out and you have that little vortex tornado of air in the drain...that is what we are trying to stop.

Using the side facing ports in a reservoir that doesn't have a pump or one that is quite tall with the pump far away the swirl created by incoming water does not create that air sucking vortex as there is no central air funnel. You will still want to bleed the air out of your loop of course but that is true for any water cooling loop--they are just more efficient without the air. That said...in my testing I left some of the little air bubbles in the reservoir to make it easier to see what was going on and I actually liked how it looked with them swirling around as they stayed in place height wise. It made it very easy to glance over and see "yup the pumps on and working fine". Aesthetics are a personal choice of course.


----------



## DNMock

Here's my amateurish concept:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



General concept of what individual piece would look like:



Looking into the individual piece:



Cross section type view:



What the set up would look like somewhat for my purpose:



Possible use in someone else's or your build when you get around to it:





Bore wouldn't need to be that big obviously since no one would actually see it ever.

If you wanted to go completely wild-man on it, just use a G 1/4 bore on it (basically a square block with fill/drain ports on all 6 sides) and make it omni-directional. Just put a plug in the sides you don't use:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

Oooooh...









... *ME LIKES!*









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

With couplers like those you could build your entire desk frame out of res tubes!


----------



## BoxGods

So where does the other leg of the "L" reservoir go? I may not be seeing your current build correctly as it looked like you have the long tube mounted on top towards the back and on each end there are lines running down thru the desk top surface to the components below....so I am not clear where that second leg goes.

First--we can adjust the height the tube is off your desktop by making that "mount" longer or shorter. The two "tubes" coming off the bottom are threaded G 1/4 and are sized so that they are slightly longer then the thickness of your desk top. You drill two corresponding holes in the desktop to allow those to pass thru. Because the bottom of the mount is larger than the tubes the holes are covered so it looks very clean.

There are three threaded holes that you use to mount the ends to your desk--the screws are on the under side of your desk top out of site so again very clean. The ends of the tubes are inside the desk and accept whatever fittings or plugs you want to use to route lines to your components.



The end mounts have passages into and out of the reservoir tube of course. If you want a more squared off look fill ports could even be added to the top...though I would use the ports on the couplers if it were me...



I will try to figure out how to machine a cube like you mocked up. The challenge is the tension rods.


----------



## DNMock

Fed ex says my mass of reservoirs will get here tomorrow. Once I get home from work tomorrow I'll assemble everything so you can see precisely the where, what, and how.

Really, it's all just about making a 90 degree turn without breaking the appearance of having a single reservoir. What my original experiment on bending one was based on, the silicone elbows (which still haven't gotten here yet...), etc. etc. Doesn't need to be square, as long as long as it can turn 90 degrees and maintain the single unit appearance is really all I'm trying to accomplish.

But yeah, lemme get it all put together over the weekend to show what's goin on exactly.


----------



## Jiryama

1 hour later of reading and looking at these awesome pictures and about to watch a 40 minute in depth youtube video on the MMRS Overview (Great job for all of the reference btw!)









I can gladly say that I will be hopping off the bitspower bandwagon for parts, which is all i've seen anyone use, and be creating my first wc build solely around Monsoon! You have some great quality and designs! One question.... any love for an orange themed build coming soon? All I have found are the blue, green, red, and clear.


----------



## Ceadderman

I've added my parts to my purchase list @ PPCs awaiting purchase.









Now it's a waiting game to sell my stuffs here or FleaBay.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> 1 hour later of reading and looking at these awesome pictures and about to watch a 40 minute in depth youtube video on the MMRS Overview (Great job for all of the reference btw!)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can gladly say that I will be hopping off the bitspower bandwagon for parts, which is all i've seen anyone use, and be creating my first wc build solely around Monsoon! You have some great quality and designs! One question.... any love for an orange themed build coming soon? All I have found are the blue, green, red, and clear.


Go clear and use Mayhem's pastel and orange dye:



Usually better off going clear anyway so when you change builds if you want a different color scheme you don't have to buy new parts.

edit: make sure you use the non-staining dye though, or else your res will end up stained that color in the future. To my knowledge Gene doesn't produce any dye's or coolants, and Mick over on the Mayhems thread is right up there with Gene in taking care of OCN members.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Go clear and use Mayhem's pastel and orange dye:
> 
> 
> 
> Usually better off going clear anyway so when you change builds if you want a different color scheme you don't have to buy new parts.
> 
> edit: make sure you use the non-staining dye though, or else your res will end up stained that color in the future. To my knowledge Gene doesn't produce any dye's or coolants, and Mick over on the Mayhems thread is right up there with Gene in taking care of OCN members.


I will also vouch for Mick--of all the companies that make colorants and fluid additives Mayhems is the ONLY one that has ever reached out to us for fitting, tube, and reservoir samples to test and validate compatibility with their products.


----------



## MrMD

Any word on when the UK will be getting shipments of the MMRS to retailers,not even up for pre-order anywhere yet


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrMD*
> 
> Any word on when the UK will be getting shipments of the MMRS to retailers,not even up for pre-order anywhere yet


We are shooting for December but I want to be SURE we have all the little packaging niggles worked out before I start sending parts to EU and the UK.


----------



## DNMock

Got everything in the mail and slapped it together:



It's backwards, but the jist should be pretty clear I hope:



Facing the right way on the floor:



And my little problem child spot:


----------



## BoxGods

*AWE*

noun
noun: awe

1.
a feeling of reverential respect mixed with fear or wonder.
"they gazed in awe at the small mountain of treasure".

If the best kill is overkill...that sucker is for sure dead as a door nail.

OK--so that will actually be UNDER the surface of the desktop right? Will the section you currently have on top of the desk be gone in the new configuration?

I wish you had explained it to me better before you bought the FDP end caps (not your fault I am so slow on the uptake) as I think it might look better less "blocky"...more like the concept below.

Or not. It would be the same black as the molded parts--I just made the elbow red so it is more obvious which part we are talking about.



Thoughts?


----------



## Mystriss

Actually I can see folks finding that red elbow part kind of handy, not sure the sales cover the cost of making them in bulk, nor that you'd want to field dealing with issues with them leaking and what-not, but I can definitely see a lot of uses for em.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts?




That's it! Done and done.

For the time being, it's going on top... That will change at some point though. Not sure how I'm gonna go about it yet, but at some point that's what I'm gonna do.


----------



## BoxGods

Before you get TOO happy...I was thinking about it some more last night and I am not sure how we would make something like that work with the mounts...


----------



## Radnad

Boxgods, can't you just manufacturer a pre-bent 90 degree res tube and then use couplers to connect it to the straight tubes?


----------



## BoxGods

We would have to bond on 10mm or 12mm acrylic flanges on each end--in and of itself not that hard to do--my biggest worry is having to provide customer support as these would be fairly specialized parts.

I am spending most of my time getting the little launch bugs ironed out--missing O rings, missing screws, the anti-vortex part, etc.. but once things have smoothed out I will look at doing an elbow in maybe clear tube only and then just plaster "FOR ADVANCED USERS ONLY" all over the description.

We actually used to make a similarly flanged part for Danger Den many years back so it is not that complicated to make relatively speaking.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We would have to bond on 10mm or 12mm acrylic flanges on each end--in and of itself not that hard to do--my biggest worry is having to provide customer support as these would be fairly specialized parts.
> 
> I am spending most of my time getting the little launch bugs ironed out--missing O rings, missing screws, the anti-vortex part, etc.. but once things have smoothed out I will look at doing an elbow in maybe clear tube only and then just plaster "FOR ADVANCED USERS ONLY" all over the description.
> 
> We actually used to make a similarly flanged part for Danger Den many years back so it is not that complicated to make relatively speaking.


No worries, we know your swamped with this launch and you have been incredibley patient answering our questions, just giving food for thought down the road.

Got my little MMRS assembled tonight and been leak testing it. Will post pics soon, it won't be any monster desk res, but it's mine and it's a beaut, should really add some character to my sig rig!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> No worries, we know your swamped with this launch and you have been incredibley patient answering our questions, just giving food for thought down the road.
> 
> Got my little MMRS assembled tonight and been leak testing it. Will post pics soon, it won't be any monster desk res, but it's mine and it's a beaut, should really add some character to my sig rig!


That desk reservoir is INSANE right? I feel like I am up to my armpits in production samples at the shop and even I don't have enough parts for a monster like that. I get a big kick out of seeing ALL of the builds and the different things people come up with.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Before you get TOO happy...I was thinking about it some more last night and I am not sure how we would make something like that work with the mounts...


Would using the hardline fittings work?



Bore the red piece with the larger of the two diameters and bore it deeper than normal.

Take the hardline fittings and screw it into the red part all the way

Rubber gasket set around the entire outer edge (similar to the rubber gaskets on an EK-FC terminal, just a single large one if mass produced, otherwise I can just use black silicone RTV to make a gasket).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







then just simply use the little tool that comes with the hardline fittings with a little modding to get it to fit and should be able to get it to connect quite nicely.

Just so happens I have 8 of the larger rigid hardline fittings sitting around just chilling in the closet. So if you can produce two of the pieces you drew up, use the bore for this piece: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-free-center-hardline-compression-fittings-1-2-x-5-8-black-chrome.html with the exception of making it twice as deep of a bore, I think it could work.


----------



## Jiryama

This may sound stupid and I apologize... but why not just get a Single Port Res cap (MMRS-EC-1P) for each reservoir intersection and use a 90 degree fitting with 2 extenders to put some distance between cap and the actual 90 degree fitting?


Spoiler: Like this



One of these on each end cap to put distance between them for clearance for a clean 90 degree look


To Combine both Reservoirs together on the corners




Something similar to that. It won't have the full 90 angle like you guys have been constructing but its gets the job done until you figure a way out right?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Would using the hardline fittings work?
> 
> 
> 
> Bore the red piece with the larger of the two diameters and bore it deeper than normal.
> 
> Take the hardline fittings and screw it into the red part all the way
> 
> Rubber gasket set around the entire outer edge (similar to the rubber gaskets on an EK-FC terminal, just a single large one if mass produced, otherwise I can just use black silicone RTV to make a gasket).
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> then just simply use the little tool that comes with the hardline fittings with a little modding to get it to fit and should be able to get it to connect quite nicely.
> 
> Just so happens I have 8 of the larger rigid hardline fittings sitting around just chilling in the closet. So if you can produce two of the pieces you drew up, use the bore for this piece: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-free-center-hardline-compression-fittings-1-2-x-5-8-black-chrome.html with the exception of making it twice as deep of a bore, I think it could work.


Attaching the elbow to the end caps is not the issue...it is the mounting holes on the end cap...as in connecting the mounts that hold it to your case or desk etc. so they match the mounting holes in all your other parts--couplers etc. You have assembled the reservoirs now so you have a general feel for how things go together...just stare at it for a minute and you will see the issue I mean. Not insurmountable--I just need to give it some more thought.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> This may sound stupid and I apologize... but why not just get a Single Port Res cap (MMRS-EC-1P) for each reservoir intersection and use a 90 degree fitting with 2 extenders to put some distance between cap and the actual 90 degree fitting?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Like this
> 
> 
> 
> One of these on each end cap to put distance between them for clearance for a clean 90 degree look
> 
> 
> To Combine both Reservoirs together on the corners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something similar to that. It won't have the full 90 angle like you guys have been constructing but its gets the job done until you figure a way out right?


Doesn't sound silly at all. Just for grins I laid it out with a 3 port end cap on each leg with three hard lines with 90 degree bends and it actually looks pretty bad a$$. I may do a render for show and tell.


----------



## BoxGods

OK--here is a quick and dirty render to show you are not silly--using three tubes for the "elbow" actually look dang cool IMO. Keep in mind the reservoirs would have color matched blue screws, tension rods, mounts etc. that matched the blue rods in the Chain Gun fittings, and the blue hard line tubes would match the 60mm OD reservoir tubes and CCFL lights...I think it would look amazing. Sorry for not adding them in but it is almost 3:00 AM here and my eyes feel like they are full of gravel =)


----------



## ruffhi

Bingo! That also gives another option if you want to change the overall length of a straight reservoir ... three straight little sections of tube between to end caps (ie as shown above without the bends).


----------



## DNMock

Yeah, seems like that's gonna be my best option. I still have the silicone 90 degree elbows.



just do what Gene has rendered



and if it doesn't look right, can always just slide the elbow over the top to conceal it. No hose clamps needed since it won't be actually doing anything other than covering it up.


----------



## VSG

Wow having two reservoirs in a 90º angle like that sounds nice, well worth looking more into.


----------



## DNMock

The only other option I can think of that would work would be to adjust the dimensions on the dual bay reservoir plate that allows the the tube reservoir to enter it and go back to the square or a triangular shape piece.

or just make the part Gene modeled into a single big piece instead of a little adapter between two end caps.


----------



## wermad

overkill: 90° female/female adapter w/ adjustable links (aka sli links male-male)?

I do like the tube and that rendering of a single component to link them


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> overkill: 90° female/female adapter w/ adjustable links (aka sli links male-male)?
> 
> I do like the tube and that rendering of a single component to link them


So is having more than one reservoir in a single loop. That's the whole point!


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> So is having *more than one reservoir* in a single loop. That's the whole point!


This is taking it to new levels of atomic-bomb-to-scratch-an-itch levels of overkill









I'm making my wishlist on what I'll setup if I get the opportunity. For now, I'm just tweaking my loop with items I have on hand


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> This is taking it to new levels of atomic-bomb-to-scratch-an-itch levels of overkill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm making my wishlist on what I'll setup if I get the opportunity. For now, I'm just tweaking my loop with items I have on hand


PC version of this:


----------



## wermad

Point:








Analogy:


----------



## DNMock

OK my silicone elbows were in the mail. Tell me what you guys think?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Overview of how it would look:



At the elbow itself:



What would be inside the silicone elbow:



Another view of the elbow on the desk:




What do you guys think?

As a side note, it's already impossible to truly drain and has to be flushed as it is, so the fact that the reservoir would never be able to totally empty is a non-point.

edit: Another thing to take into consideration, I was originally planning to use the CCFL black light bulbs but now that I'm thinking about it, I'm wondering if the excess radiant light would be a bit painful on the eyes and be just too dang bright. Maybe use more directed LEDs instead?


----------



## BoxGods

If they seal without the hose clamps I could live with them...hose clamps might be a deal breaker though as aesthetics are important to me.


----------



## BoxGods

Performance has put up the first of their pre-assembled units for those wanting a drop in solution. The 360 view lists the different parts and the drop downs let you select different tube lengths, mounts, colors etc. and thir expert modders will use the parts you select and put it all together for you. Hank tells me they will be adding several more configurations over the next few days.

Pretty cool =)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-fully-assembled-and-customizable-reservoir-style-1.html#!prettyPhoto


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance has put up the first of their pre-assembled units for those wanting a drop in solution. The 360 view lists the different parts and the drop downs let you select different tube lengths, mounts, colors etc. and thir expert modders will use the parts you select and put it all together for you. Hank tells me they will be adding several more configurations over the next few days.
> 
> Pretty cool =)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-fully-assembled-and-customizable-reservoir-style-1.html#!prettyPhoto


that's very helpful to make sure you get everything you need! maybe they're still massaging it but i don't see the fill port as an end cap option. i would also like to see lights and mounts as NON-required options.


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> OK my silicone elbows were in the mail. Tell me what you guys think?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Overview of how it would look:
> 
> 
> 
> At the elbow itself:
> 
> 
> 
> What would be inside the silicone elbow:
> 
> 
> 
> Another view of the elbow on the desk:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think?
> 
> As a side note, it's already impossible to truly drain and has to be flushed as it is, so the fact that the reservoir would never be able to totally empty is a non-point.
> 
> edit: Another thing to take into consideration, I was originally planning to use the CCFL black light bulbs but now that I'm thinking about it, I'm wondering if the excess radiant light would be a bit painful on the eyes and be just too dang bright. Maybe use more directed LEDs instead?


I'm looking for the giant snail to boost your rig!

It does look pretty good with the elbow.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If they seal without the hose clamps I could live with them...hose clamps might be a deal breaker though as aesthetics are important to me.


Yeah, it's not ideal, but I think I can live with it. Nice to have a fall back option at the least.

As for the hose clamps, if you ever find yourself in a spot where you need a hose clamp for whatever reason and don't wanna sacrifice aesthetics, check these out: http://shop.hosecandy.com/boa-clamp-2-1-4-2-1-2/

The pre-assembled thing is pretty cool, but I don't think it's really needed. It really is simple and easy to assemble it yourself. Gene and co. did a good job keeping it simple.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> that's very helpful to make sure you get everything you need! maybe they're still massaging it but i don't see the fill port as an end cap option. i would also like to see lights and mounts as NON-required options.


I think they will have several configurations--each that focuses on one or two different parts so it doesn't overwhelm people right out of the gate. The fill port will be shown in one of the others for example.

For the CCFL's it might be that once they have the internal CCFL plugs and the LED strip plugs they will have a drop down for those...I dunno.

I think overall they did a great job--not easy to do when there are so many options.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Yeah, it's not ideal, but I think I can live with it. Nice to have a fall back option at the least.
> 
> As for the hose clamps, if you ever find yourself in a spot where you need a hose clamp for whatever reason and don't wanna sacrifice aesthetics, check these out: http://shop.hosecandy.com/boa-clamp-2-1-4-2-1-2/
> 
> The pre-assembled thing is pretty cool, but I don't think it's really needed. It really is simple and easy to assemble it yourself. Gene and co. did a good job keeping it simple.


Those clamps are pretty cool...


----------



## BoxGods

One of the configurations I am thinking of using in my build.



Think the back most of the elbows would travel downward to tie into the loop somewhere.


----------



## Jiryama

That seems like a very solid design especially if you can get it to meet right at the top of your case for that fill port. Very clean! I am loving the triple port leading into another res! Looks really awesome, I wish I could incorporate that into my build but I don't think ill have the space with what I want to do.

On that topic, I was wondering if you might be able to show a picture of what the tension plates look like on the back that have the name as well as some length dimensions for them? Would I be able to request a custom color tension plate?


Spoiler: Idea Source







I want to create a PSU shroud to cover bottom part of the case but I think a regular cover is just boring so I want to do something that this guy did and make an "waterblock" per say and I will have my Screen name etched into it with 3/4 ports on the back. I am going to get the 50mm Monsoon with pump set up to run it solely separate from my main loop. I want to mount it with the Pump retention plate facing outwards (towards my side window) so that I can represent the company and product. I looked into things and have really fallen in love with your products and can't see why more aren't using them. That being said I just need to know the length to make the shroud long enough and know space restrictions as well as if possible to get the retention plates in orange to not ruin the builds orange theme.

I wish I was good with the 3d stuff like you guys since I don't know if that makes full sense to you... things make sense in my head sometimes and not to others.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> That seems like a very solid design especially if you can get it to meet right at the top of your case for that fill port. Very clean! I am loving the triple port leading into another res! Looks really awesome, I wish I could incorporate that into my build but I don't think ill have the space with what I want to do.
> 
> On that topic, I was wondering if you might be able to show a picture of what the tension plates look like on the back that have the name as well as some length dimensions for them? Would I be able to request a custom color tension plate?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Idea Source
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want to create a PSU shroud to cover bottom part of the case but I think a regular cover is just boring so I want to do something that this guy did and make an "waterblock" per say and I will have my Screen name etched into it with 3/4 ports on the back. I am going to get the 50mm Monsoon with pump set up to run it solely separate from my main loop. I want to mount it with the Pump retention plate facing outwards (towards my side window) so that I can represent the company and product. I looked into things and have really fallen in love with your products and can't see why more aren't using them. That being said I just need to know the length to make the shroud long enough and know space restrictions as well as if possible to get the retention plates in orange to not ruin the builds orange theme.
> 
> I wish I was good with the 3d stuff like you guys since I don't know if that makes full sense to you... things make sense in my head sometimes and not to others.


I admit I don't fully understand what you are asking but not to worry as it has more to do with it being hard stuff to explain than it does with your explanation. Maybe break it down into smaller numbered questions?


----------



## Mystriss

I may be wrong, but I think he wants dimensions for the SAP unit and to know if the weight spreaders on the grasshopper mount come in orange.

I got something like this out of the description:


----------



## Eudisld15

Anyone know where I can get the D5 Chrome pump kit? PPCS is out of stock and it's holding back my build







?


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> One of the configurations I am thinking of using in my build.
> 
> 
> 
> Think the back most of the elbows would travel downward to tie into the loop somewhere.


Imagination with no limitation, I love it.

Congratulations on so many amazing new products.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> One of the configurations I am thinking of using in my build.
> 
> 
> 
> Think the back most of the elbows would travel downward to tie into the loop somewhere.


Turn the bay reservoir 90 degrees and it'll be exactly what we've been discussing via email!

Looks amazing, seeing it rendered is making me more anxious to start this build.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Turn the bay reservoir 90 degrees and it'll be exactly what we've been discussing via email!
> 
> Looks amazing, seeing it rendered is making me more anxious to start this build.


I'll be rotating mine 90 degrees as well, gonna have to drill a hole in the top though for a fill port. shouldn't be an issue though.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I'll be rotating mine 90 degrees as well, gonna have to drill a hole in the top though for a fill port. shouldn't be an issue though.


I've been planning a build in the Corsair 540, been hassling Gene a lot with ideas. I like the "cube" design of the case and I think the partition that has the PSU and drive bays will go to waste if I don't put something cool there! The plan is to use the M2 dual bay reservoir, which will have to be mounted "vertically" in the drive bay, and attach a tube reservoir to it and have it extend to the back of the case (perhaps all the way to the back, to a drain port, if I cannot fit the configuration shown above). Then I'll have a window cut out on the side panel that "follows" the tube reservoir from the front to the back of the case and perhaps a window on the top of the case looking down at the tube reservoir.

Which brings me to a question that I asked Gene. It may be a stupid question but I can't seem to convince myself one way or the other. With a configuration shown above, will you be able to "top off" the bay reservoir or will it only be filled up to where the horizontal reservoir is feeding in? "Normally", you'd fill into the bay reservoir, using one of the ports at the very top. However, now we're filling from the vertical mounted tube reservoir. Once the bay reservoir is full up to the point where the horizontal tube reservoir is attached to the bay reservoir, then will adding more water continue to fill up the bay reservoir or will it "back up" into the horizontal tube reservoir and eventually up into the vertical tube reservoir?

Again, may be a silly question but without the case I intend to use or any of the reservoirs, it's hard for me to wrap my head around it haha. I'd just like the bay reservoir to be filled up close to the top and the horizontal tube reservoir to be completely full, for visual reasons. So I may end up doing a fill port that goes directly to the bay reservoir instead of the horizontal tube reservoir. Since the bay reservoir will be mounted "vertically" in the Corsair 540, I'd use one of the inlets that's on the back as a location to fill (when the reservoir is sitting vertically, this inlet will be the highest point of access). But by doing that, I'll most likely not have enough head-clearance to fit that vertical tube reservoir as part of the filling system. So I'd have to attach the FDP cap to the top of the case and use a mating kit to allow me to just run a piece of tubing from the fill port to the bay reservoir.


----------



## BoxGods

Ah man I specifically did not mention the Corsair 540 and left the dual bay horizontal in the render so I wouldn't spoil your big reveal...and you let the cat out of the bag









If you run the fill port all the way to the back of the case then flip it onto the front of the case for filling the dual bay reservoir is then the low point of the loop and will fill all the way.

One of the functions of a reservoir is to provide space for any air in the loop to gather so that you can then replace the air by "topping off".

You will be fine.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> Anyone know where I can get the D5 Chrome pump kit? PPCS is out of stock and it's holding back my build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


PPCS should have them back in stock the 23rd. Give or take a few days depending on ship time.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Ah man I specifically did not mention the Corsair 540 and left the dual bay horizontal in the render so I wouldn't spoil your big reveal...and you let the cat out of the bag
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you run the fill port all the way to the back of the case then flip it onto the front of the case for filling the dual bay reservoir is then the low point of the loop and will fill all the way.
> 
> One of the functions of a reservoir is to provide space for any air in the loop to gather so that you can then replace the air by "topping off".
> 
> You will be fine.


haha I'm sure anyone who reads the post will forget my plan....unless they steal it.

But thanks for the clarification!


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I admit I don't fully understand what you are asking but not to worry as it has more to do with it being hard stuff to explain than it does with your explanation. Maybe break it down into smaller numbered questions?


Alright, might have given some unnecessary information so here is what I am going to be doing.


Spoiler: Involved Pictures






Final Pump hidden behind PSU Cover




That is basically what I am doing. Just need to find out a few things:

1. Because I am mounting it upwards so the letters show in proper orientation, I need to know how tall the Pump is? I am mounting the reservoir on top of that as well so if its too tall I need to figure something else out.

2. Would it be possible to custom order the mounting tension plates (They show on the outside of shroud) in black with orange lettering or vice versa?



Please forgive the 5 minute photoshop jobs!









That is basically what I am looking for.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> haha I'm sure anyone who reads the post will forget my plan....unless they steal it.
> 
> But thanks for the clarification!


Yeah, flipping it around should do the trick. Not much of an option for me though, hence busting out the drill. Shouldn't be too problematic though. I'll update with some pictures when I do in case you decide to go that route yourself.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Alright, might have given some unnecessary information so here is what I am going to be doing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Involved Pictures
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Final Pump hidden behind PSU Cover
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is basically what I am doing. Just need to find out a few things:
> 
> 1. Because I am mounting it upwards so the letters show in proper orientation, I need to know how tall the Pump is? I am mounting the reservoir on top of that as well so if its too tall I need to figure something else out.
> 
> 2. Would it be possible to custom order the mounting tension plates (They show on the outside of shroud) in black with orange lettering or vice versa?
> 
> 
> 
> Please forgive the 5 minute photoshop jobs!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is basically what I am looking for.


That logo is laser etched so it can't be done in colors--sorry. The entire part can be done in our orange finish however.

Here are the SAP dimensions:


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> haha I'm sure anyone who reads the post will forget my plan....unless they steal it.
> 
> But thanks for the clarification!


You laugh but that is a VERY popular case =)


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Turn the bay reservoir 90 degrees and it'll be exactly what we've been discussing via email!
> 
> Looks amazing, seeing it rendered is making me more anxious to start this build.


Here ya go:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Plug is make-shift as hell, just slapped it together from what I have laying about in plain sight. I'm sure I can dig up a much better screw and washer laying around somewhere, but you get the idea I'm sure.


----------



## Tomiger

Interesting! Maybe I'll put more thought into something like that. Is that the correct size for a fitting or is it just an arbitrary size hole for filling?


----------



## BoxGods

Not sure I see the logic of drilling into the side like that as the ports on the back are about a mm higher than that hole location.



I made the surface where you drilled blue to make it easier to pick out.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not sure I see the logic of drilling into the side like that as the ports on the back are about a mm higher than that hole location.
> 
> 
> 
> I made the surface where you drilled blue to make it easier to pick out.


can only fill to the bottom of the port hole though or you end up with a puddle. If he is using your set-up, there would be no point as the dual bay wouldn't be the highest point anyway.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Interesting! Maybe I'll put more thought into something like that. Is that the correct size for a fitting or is it just an arbitrary size hole for filling?


Drilled a hole just a hair smaller than the piece of rubber I was using as a plug (in this case one of the rubber pieces that came with the dual bay).


----------



## BoxGods

Actually it fills to the top of the port but either way we are talking about a few mm...I think if I was going to drill a hole in the side I might do it on the back plate and cross drill it. I would have to look at the part and see if there is room though.

*EDIT*

I had a quick look...might not be room for a cross drilled fill port on the back plate...would be really close if there was.


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks for posting that information about the pump unit.


Spoiler: SAP Dimensions



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Here are the SAP dimensions:






Is the vertical stand going into production?
Will it be able to hold the SAP pump cover?
What is the ETA for it to appear at PPCS?
Do you have something similar (dimension information) for the this vertical stand?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am going to add an upright mount for those who prefer them ...not my first choice personally but everyone likes what they like =)


----------



## jvillaveces

The new D5 Motor Mounting Tube is IMO the best looking D5 in the market, and I also love the mounts. Looking at it, however, it would seem that pumps with unusual wiring, such as PWM versions or Aquacomputer's pumps with USB and 3-pin ports on the back, won't fit, because there is no way to take out the cables. I've had this problem with Bitspower's mod kits, which in that case could be solved either by enlarging a hole on the backplate or simply leaving it off. With the Monsoon units, this doesn't seem possible because it seems like the back plate (the piece with the maltese cross) must stay in place.
Can you confirm whether the Motor Mounting Tube will accommodate these pumps? If not, can it be easily modded to fit them?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> With the Monsoon units, this doesn't seem possible because it seems like the back plate (the piece with the maltese cross) must stay in place.
> 
> Can you confirm wither the Motor Mounting Tube will accommodate these pumps? If not, can it be easily modded to fit them?


Are you sure about that? It seems that the picture on PPCS shows some holes in the back.


----------



## Mystriss

Pump cover has two holes in the back cover for the wires









(If I could remember where I stashed my new AquaComputer D5 I'd put it in and take a pic lol)


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> 
> 
> Pump cover has two holes in the back cover for the wires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (If I could remember where I stashed my new AquaComputer D5 I'd put it in and take a pic lol)


Yay! Just to be sure, those aren't for the setscrews to engage, they are wire pass-throughs?


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Yay! Just to be sure, those aren't for the setscrews to engage, they are wire pass-throughs?


This is what he is talking about. Starts at 3:20 but entire video is how to install a D5 pump into the stand alone pump kit.






There are 2 mini tighteners for the cap on the side of the tube that you will undo and the 2 holes actually on the cap are for wire pass through.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> This is what he is talking about. Starts at 3:20 but entire video is how to install a D5 pump into the stand alone pump kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are 2 mini tighteners for the cap on the side of the tube that you will undo and the 2 holes actually on the cap are for wire pass through.


Thanks fellas! I watched that video last night at 2 am, but it was still unclear, that's why I posted the question. Going back to it, with the answer already in my head, it was always clear.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for posting that information about the pump unit.
> 
> Is the vertical stand going into production?
> Will it be able to hold the SAP pump cover?
> What is the ETA for it to appear at PPCS?
> Do you have something similar (dimension information) for the this vertical stand?


Yes it is going into production.

Yes it will fit the SAP pump with cover.

We are trying to get it out ASAP--figure early December. Sooner if at all possible.

Dimensions.


----------



## ruffhi

Excellent. Thx BoxGods.


----------



## DNMock

Hey Gene,

How bright are those CCFL bulbs? Would having 10' worth of them be too overpowering you think?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Hey Gene,
> 
> How bright are those CCFL bulbs? Would having 10' worth of them be too overpowering you think?


It is all relative...do you like a good tan?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It is all relative...do you like a good tan?


Ha, all spring, summer, and early fall I spend outside working for a good 6 to 8 hours a day minimum, so I get good and toasty brown.

Directed LED's it is


----------



## Ceadderman

Hey Gino, why no Frosted Red tubes? You have UV green and UV Blue but no Red?









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey Gino, why no Frosted Red tubes? You have UV green and UV Blue but no Red?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


We can do the frosted in any color...I just did not think the darker colors would look as good as the lighter colors do. I did samples of the darker blue and it looks pretty good so maybe the red would as well...will have to try it.


----------



## Radnad

Boxgods, please take a look at my little res. It has been sitting on my desk for about a week waiting for a pump. It is filled with EK UV blue coolant. You will notice the frost is starting to discolor, and it increases more every day. There is also a before picture so you can see the discoloration was not there in the beginning. I have tried to rub and clean the discoloration off and it doesn't remove. I have not disassembled it yet to inspect it any further, but do you know why this may be occuring?

Discoloration:


Before:


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Boxgods, please take a look at my little res. It has been sitting on my desk for about a week waiting for a pump. It is filled with EK UV blue coolant. You will notice the frost is starting to discolor, and it increases more every day. There is also a before picture so you can see the discoloration was not there in the beginning. I have tried to rub and clean the discoloration off and it doesn't remove. I have not disassembled it yet to inspect it any further, but do you know why this may be occuring?
> 
> Discoloration:
> 
> 
> Before:


Looks like Oil from the O ring wicked up the side. The O rings get a film of a special oil/rubber treatment at the factory to prevent them from deteriorating if they are stored for a long time. When you take it apart just wash the tube with warm soapy water--do NOT use a window cleaner as alcohol in these can cause acrylic to crack. Also give the O ring a bath in warm soapy water. Let them all air dry before assembly. Might not be a bad idea to give the molded plastic part a bath as well in case any of the O ring oil is in the groove.

That should get you sorted out.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Boxgods, please take a look at my little res. It has been sitting on my desk for about a week waiting for a pump. It is filled with EK UV blue coolant. You will notice the frost is starting to discolor, and it increases more every day. There is also a before picture so you can see the discoloration was not there in the beginning. I have tried to rub and clean the discoloration off and it doesn't remove. I have not disassembled it yet to inspect it any further, but do you know why this may be occuring?
> 
> Discoloration:
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Oil from the O ring wicked up the side. The O rings get a film of a special oil/rubber treatment at the factory to prevent them from deteriorating if they are stored for a long time. When you take it apart just wash the tube with warm soapy water--do NOT use a window cleaner as alcohol in these can cause acrylic to crack. Also give the O ring a bath in warm soapy water. Let them all air dry before assembly. Might not be a bad idea to give the molded plastic part a bath as well in case any of the O ring oil is in the groove.
> 
> That should get you sorted out.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick follow up. There was some residual oily substance on the o-rings and end caps when i first took them oit of the package, I thought i wiped it off enough but apparently not. I will dissassemble the res later today and give everything a warm bath as you suggested and let you know how it turns out.


----------



## ruffhi

@radnad ... that is a cute little res!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hey Gino, why no Frosted Red tubes? You have UV green and UV Blue but no Red?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We can do the frosted in any color...I just did not think the darker colors would look as good as the lighter colors do. I did samples of the darker blue and it looks pretty good so maybe the red would as well...will have to try it.
Click to expand...

Could you do a 50mm and post the results? Am looking to put together a 300mm setup (250+50) to give me a Lightsaber look. Black with frosted Red Backlit by UV.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Boxgods, please take a look at my little res. It has been sitting on my desk for about a week waiting for a pump. It is filled with EK UV blue coolant. You will notice the frost is starting to discolor, and it increases more every day. There is also a before picture so you can see the discoloration was not there in the beginning. I have tried to rub and clean the discoloration off and it doesn't remove. I have not disassembled it yet to inspect it any further, but do you know why this may be occuring?
> 
> Discoloration:
> 
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like Oil from the O ring wicked up the side. The O rings get a film of a special oil/rubber treatment at the factory to prevent them from deteriorating if they are stored for a long time. When you take it apart just wash the tube with warm soapy water--do NOT use a window cleaner as alcohol in these can cause acrylic to crack. Also give the O ring a bath in warm soapy water. Let them all air dry before assembly. Might not be a bad idea to give the molded plastic part a bath as well in case any of the O ring oil is in the groove.
> 
> That should get you sorted out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the quick follow up. There was some residual oily substance on the o-rings and end caps when i first took them oit of the package, I thought i wiped it off enough but apparently not. I will dissassemble the res later today and give everything a warm bath as you suggested and let you know how it turns out.
Click to expand...

Follow up report, I disassembled the res and washed all the parts with warm soapy water as suggested, but unfortunately the discoloration of the frosting on the tube appears to be permanent. It's hard to see in this picture but it is definitely there, and based on my previous pics it is very noticeable with coolant in the res.

It doesn't look like it is a result from anything on the inside of the res, it looks like something has happened to the frosting on the outside of the res. I don't know how acrylic gets frosted, or what might have caused it to do this, but just to reiterate it was not there when I got the res and happened slowly over a week's time and the area grew larger every day.

BoxGods, any other ideas or thoughts?

I originally wanted the UV blue reactor tube but ppcs was out of stock, and I figured since I was using UV blue coolant the clear frosted would look just as good, and it did until this little issue, so I will probably just order the clear tube and see how that goes. Fortunately I'm still waiting on the pump and my chain gun fittings, so time is not of the essence atm.


----------



## Jiryama

Hey BoxGods, how see through is the Black Reservoir tubing? If I were to have a triple cap on the top and bottom and have 3 orange LED's on bottom and top shining into the reservoir, would that light it up at all?

I am wanting to use clear fluids since I don't really want to have mixtures in my loop because most stuff I read says that they aren't good for the radiators. So I was thinking of using the PrimoChill Acrylic UV Orange for the tubing which will give a nice glow when low lights and match the softer orange colors of my system. Not sure if a pure black reservoir would match nicely with that or not so was thinking maybe light it up a bit with orange LED's fittings from you guys like I mentioned above.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Could you do a 50mm and post the results? Am looking to put together a 300mm setup (250+50) to give me a Lightsaber look. Black with frosted Red Backlit by UV.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Will add it to the to do list...the problem (or at least what I consider a "problem") with the frosting the darker colors is that the etched areas tend to look white rather than a lighter shade of the tube color--more of a contrast in other words. I have a frosted sample of the darker blue tube already and the frosted area sort of looks like it has a purple "ish" tint to it. I will try to get in to the shop tomorrow and take a picture.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Follow up report, I disassembled the res and washed all the parts with warm soapy water as suggested, but unfortunately the discoloration of the frosting on the tube appears to be permanent. It's hard to see in this picture but it is definitely there, and based on my previous pics it is very noticeable with coolant in the res.
> 
> It doesn't look like it is a result from anything on the inside of the res, it looks like something has happened to the frosting on the outside of the res. I don't know how acrylic gets frosted, or what might have caused it to do this, but just to reiterate it was not there when I got the res and happened slowly over a week's time and the area grew larger every day.
> 
> BoxGods, any other ideas or thoughts?
> 
> I originally wanted the UV blue reactor tube but ppcs was out of stock, and I figured since I was using UV blue coolant the clear frosted would look just as good, and it did until this little issue, so I will probably just order the clear tube and see how that goes. Fortunately I'm still waiting on the pump and my chain gun fittings, so time is not of the essence atm.


hmm...I had a few of them do this to me when testing--that is how I knew about the oil--and when I washed them with warm water and a big dollop of dish soap the marking went away. I used w/e dish soap is at the sink in the shop...silver bottle...I think it is your basic Dawn dish soap. I turned the water to pretty warm, put about a dime sized squirt of the soap on my hand and rubbed the dish soap onto the tube mostly dry so iot was almost all soap and no water. Covered the tube well then set it aside while I washed and rinsed my hands--so about 30 seconds maybe. Then rinsed the tube really well and used a soft lint free cloth (aka an old T shirt) and dried it off. On all three tubes, one UV green and two white, there was no sign of the oil.

It really should wash off...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Hey BoxGods, how see through is the Black Reservoir tubing? If I were to have a triple cap on the top and bottom and have 3 orange LED's on bottom and top shining into the reservoir, would that light it up at all?
> 
> I am wanting to use clear fluids since I don't really want to have mixtures in my loop because most stuff I read says that they aren't good for the radiators. So I was thinking of using the PrimoChill Acrylic UV Orange for the tubing which will give a nice glow when low lights and match the softer orange colors of my system. Not sure if a pure black reservoir would match nicely with that or not so was thinking maybe light it up a bit with orange LED's fittings from you guys like I mentioned above.


Pretty much zero as it is solid black tube just like our 3/8 x 1/2 and 1/2 x 5/8 hard line tube.

If you want the reservoir tube to glow orange I would suggest the frosted white as white tends to become the color of the light shining on it--just like wearing a white shirt at a club.


----------



## Mountain King

Hi BoxGods,
I'm looking at using the ChainGun coupler, with your light port 90°, but the coupler dimension B is much larger than the light port diameter, what I understand is:

Tube LightPort ChainGun
1/2" 20.0 *24.7*
5/8" 22.2 26.8
3/4" *24.4* 29.0

So a 3/8 - 1/2 ChainGun coupler with a B diameter of 24.7mm would match fairly well with a 3/4" lightport (only 0.3mm difference in diameter), But that is all, the rest would be significantly different and look a bit odd, in my mind.

I realise that the LightPort fitting was designed with the Free Center compression fitting in mind. But is there any intention of releasing a 90° that matches perfectly with the ChainGun couplers? or do you know of a T-piece etc that matches perfectly?

thanks


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Pretty much zero as it is solid black tube just like our 3/8 x 1/2 and 1/2 x 5/8 hard line tube.
> 
> If you want the reservoir tube to glow orange I would suggest the frosted white as white tends to become the color of the light shining on it--just like wearing a white shirt at a club.


Hmm, yes but you guys don't have the orange LEDs for the MMRS, or is it just not on PPCs?


----------



## Ceadderman

Would love to see the ccl units get a minor LED mounting surface addition. Either in a dual flat surface or single. Would give an additional reason to go with the MMR for those who wish to maintain the look of their LED setup without adding CCLs.

I understand why, if it cannot be done. But was thinking about it the other night. And thought I would mention it since it seems like a workable solution for anyone wanting a color scheme other than Red Green Blue UV or White. LED strip are 1 centimeter in width. Not sure of the width/diameter of these CCLs though.

Thank you for the willingness to hear me/us out Gino. It means a lot to me.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would love to see the ccl units get a minor LED mounting surface addition. Either in a dual flat surface or single. Would give an additional reason to go with the MMR for those who wish to maintain the look of their LED setup without adding CCLs.
> 
> I understand why, if it cannot be done. But was thinking about it the other night. And thought I would mention it since it seems like a workable solution for anyone wanting a color scheme other than Red Green Blue UV or White. LED strip are 1 centimeter in width. Not sure of the width/diameter of these CCLs though.
> 
> Thank you for the willingness to hear me/us out Gino. It means a lot to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No need for that I think, just some superglue on the tension rods for individual leds, or do what I'm doing with the LED strip:



Ignore the dirt and dog hair if you wouldn't mind


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would love to see the ccl units get a minor LED mounting surface addition. Either in a dual flat surface or single. Would give an additional reason to go with the MMR for those who wish to maintain the look of their LED setup without adding CCLs.
> 
> I understand why, if it cannot be done. But was thinking about it the other night. And thought I would mention it since it seems like a workable solution for anyone wanting a color scheme other than Red Green Blue UV or White. LED strip are 1 centimeter in width. Not sure of the width/diameter of these CCLs though.
> 
> Thank you for the willingness to hear me/us out Gino. It means a lot to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I am working with Paul from "Just a Bunch of Geeks" http://www.justabunchofgeeks.com/ on several LED solutions. The first is a special version of our internal CCFL plug. This is a 6mm ID light diffusing acrylic tube that is mated to a machined brass plug, (finished in our 10 Monsoon colors of course) that replaces the CCFL bulbs with rigid RGB LED strips. You can insert the tubes into your reservoir and because they are addressable you can program all sorts of killer effects as well as tie the color output to functions of your system--temps for example. The LED's are RGB of course so as an example, you can easily program the LED's to light red at a certain temp and as that temp lowers the LED's transition in color to blue (or w/e you want) as a cool "at a glance" temp indicator.

Their Guardian bay devices allow for all sorts of motion effects as well. An example of this would be using six LED tubes screwed into an end cap--because they are in roughly a circular pattern you can not only program effects that work vertically, but also in a radial pattern--think "warp core" pulsing. Check out the videos on their site to see some of the cool effects they have come up with.

The second item we are working on is an end cap with a built in PCB cavity that connects a three or 6 bulb tube configuration so you have a single power/com wire from the reservoir to the controller for uber clean wire runs. So pretty much the best LED options you will find on a tube reservoir. I will ask Paul to hop in here and post the details as I just designed the hardware while he and his team worked out the PCBA and software/programming--aka the complicated stuff =)

As for the willingness to "hear you guys out"...you guys are literally keeping food on the tables and roofs over the heads of about half a dozen families at Monsoon--including our newest addition, my God Daughter Amanda Liu--congratulations Bruce and Lucy =).

So all of the thanks goes the other direction believe me.


----------



## Tomiger

That's a pretty cool idea! I was planning on doing something similar myself...at some point but I keep putting it off. I was going to control/power some LEDs with an Arduino, having the OS send info to the Arduino about load averages or really anything I want and change the LEDs based off of that (if system load greater than 85%, change the LEDs to red, etc).

Of course it can be a pain to do the software side of that, but that's what I do for a living so it's fine with me!

In regards to the MMRS CCFL's, are there any videos/images of them in action? I don't believe I've seen any from the initial videos I've watched on your Youtube channel. Though I'll probably end up using Mayhem's Pastel in my next build (so having a light in/behind the reservoir probably won't do anything; I also tend to prefer using controllable RGB LEDs for case lighting, as I can never decide on which colors I want to use), I'm curious to see how they look!


----------



## ruffhi

I don't typically like lights in my rig ... well, excess lights. But I can certainly make an exception and hook up a red LED to a temp sensor ... so if it starts to get hot ... it lights up like a christmas tree.


----------



## Tomiger

I tend to go with white lights, or a very light tint of some color. I use them solely for the purpose of lighting up the case (duh) so the hardware and what not is visible. I guess sometimes my inner 12-year old comes out and i just want lights everywhere haha.


----------



## BoxGods

I like to light the interior up but I prefer the lights to be more like stage or theatrical lighting. See the result of the lighting but not the lights. It is easy to get carried away.

I will try to get a PSU over to the photo table and get some pictures of the CCFL's lit up...feels like I am never going to get my to do list knocked out =)


----------



## Ceadderman

It's a good problem to have to be sure. My to do list is long indeed. Just gives me a reason to put my feet on the floor in the mornings.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> It's a good problem to have to be sure. My to do list is long indeed. Just gives me a reason to put my feet on the floor in the mornings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Very true! I could be slogging my a$$ to a job I hate every morning and punching a clock--my personal idea of hell.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I like to light the interior up but I prefer the lights to be more like stage or theatrical lighting. See the result of the lighting but not the lights. It is easy to get carried away.
> 
> I will try to get a PSU over to the photo table and get some pictures of the CCFL's lit up...feels like I am never going to get my to do list knocked out =)


Feel your pain on that one. Screwing around with my rig is my escape when I get home. But such is the trade-off of being your own boss I suppose, things that need done list gets larger every day, but don't have to worry about getting fired and no HR to write me up when frustration drives me to a cussing fit.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Follow up report, I disassembled the res and washed all the parts with warm soapy water as suggested, but unfortunately the discoloration of the frosting on the tube appears to be permanent. It's hard to see in this picture but it is definitely there, and based on my previous pics it is very noticeable with coolant in the res.
> 
> It doesn't look like it is a result from anything on the inside of the res, it looks like something has happened to the frosting on the outside of the res. I don't know how acrylic gets frosted, or what might have caused it to do this, but just to reiterate it was not there when I got the res and happened slowly over a week's time and the area grew larger every day.
> 
> BoxGods, any other ideas or thoughts?
> 
> I originally wanted the UV blue reactor tube but ppcs was out of stock, and I figured since I was using UV blue coolant the clear frosted would look just as good, and it did until this little issue, so I will probably just order the clear tube and see how that goes. Fortunately I'm still waiting on the pump and my chain gun fittings, so time is not of the essence atm.
> 
> 
> 
> hmm...I had a few of them do this to me when testing--that is how I knew about the oil--and when I washed them with warm water and a big dollop of dish soap the marking went away. I used w/e dish soap is at the sink in the shop...silver bottle...I think it is your basic Dawn dish soap. I turned the water to pretty warm, put about a dime sized squirt of the soap on my hand and rubbed the dish soap onto the tube mostly dry so iot was almost all soap and no water. Covered the tube well then set it aside while I washed and rinsed my hands--so about 30 seconds maybe. Then rinsed the tube really well and used a soft lint free cloth (aka an old T shirt) and dried it off. On all three tubes, one UV green and two white, there was no sign of the oil.
> 
> It really should wash off...
Click to expand...





Annnnnd that's why your the master and I'm just the lowly MMRS Padawan.

I used Dawn and warm water and let it soak for about 20 minutes and then scrubbed it good with a soft sponge and sure enough it came off, as beautiful as last week when I opened it. Chain Guns should be here tomorrow and then will reassemble and fill to be sure, but thanks for all the help and its good to know to know it was just the oil residue.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am working with Paul from "Just a Bunch of Geeks" http://www.justabunchofgeeks.com/ on several LED solutions. The first is a special version of our internal CCFL plug. This is a 6mm ID light diffusing acrylic tube that is mated to a machined brass plug, (finished in our 10 Monsoon colors of course) that replaces the CCFL bulbs with rigid RGB LED strips.


This would be totally awesome! Would definitely help out someone like me trying to do that off scheme build of Black and Orange. Stick a RGB set to Orange inside the Res to light it up like you mentioned earlier. Keeps me from having to buy 6 Orange led fittings from you! Haha.

Thank you for the frosted reservoir recommendation, it has helped out a lot with the planning of my loops. This Black and orange Theme is definitely difficult to piece together build wise but I think it will look very nice in the long run.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> This would be totally awesome! Would definitely help out someone like me trying to do that off scheme build of Black and Orange. Stick a RGB set to Orange inside the Res to light it up like you mentioned earlier. Keeps me from having to buy 6 Orange led fittings from you! Haha.
> 
> Thank you for the frosted reservoir recommendation, it has helped out a lot with the planning of my loops. This Black and orange Theme is definitely difficult to piece together build wise but I think it will look very nice in the long run.


A little unsolicited advice on black and orange builds. To avoid it feeling too "Halloween" try for a black to orange ratio of four to one or better--favoring black. If you need to go over that try to do it with more than one shade of orange. I know that sounds counter intuitive but pumpkin or Halloween orange is actually a very dominate orange and adding a second shade breaks it up a bit visually.

Certain color combinations are really tied to a communal ethos in our collective conscious. Orange and black with Halloween, black and yellow with bumble bee's, Red white and blue with patriotism, etc.. That is handy when you want that association but kind of annoying when you don't.


----------



## Eudisld15

Turns out I 50mm mounts I got was a little too much. Anyone want to trade me their 12mm stand mounts for two 50mm chrome mounts? I'll pay for shipping.

Made an acrylic psu shroud and it added a few mm too much.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> Turns out I 50mm mounts I got was a little too much. Anyone want to trade me their 12mm stand mounts for two 50mm chrome mounts? I'll pay for shipping.
> 
> Made an acrylic psu shroud and it added a few mm too much.


If nobody else wants to trade I can get you sorted out. Give it a few days and if your still stuck shoot me an email.


----------



## Eudisld15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If nobody else wants to trade I can get you sorted out. Give it a few days and if your still stuck shoot me an email.


Thank you! I'll shoot you an email if I get no one interested in a few days. I just ordered my monsoon pump kit and finished assembLing resevoir.

God you guys just make nothing but quality stuff. If monsoon made special cover plates for gpu blocks and cpu blocks (something along the line of molded acrylic tops that replaces, say an ek-wb Acetel block top ) with the awesome design choice monsoon makes I can see myself buying it.

Modularbility is the best.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am working with Paul from "Just a Bunch of Geeks" http://www.justabunchofgeeks.com/ on several LED solutions.


How can i buy products from this Company. Specially the Guardian LCD (http://www.justabunchofgeeks.com/#!guardain-lcd/c1k2b) i can't find in the I-Net.
In Facebook I see a shop, but i can't conclude a sale .


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> How can i buy products from this Company. Specially the Guardian LCD (http://www.justabunchofgeeks.com/#!guardain-lcd/c1k2b) i can't find in the I-Net.
> In Facebook I see a shop, but i can't conclude a sale .


It looks awesome, if it's really pricey or aren't for resale (Origin PC's exclusive or something) check out the Aquaero basically the same thing.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> @radnad ... that is a cute little res!


It should be perfect for my loop! Here is a pic visualizing it, can't wait to get it in!


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> It looks awesome, if it's really pricey or aren't for resale (Origin PC's exclusive or something) check out the Aquaero basically the same thing.


Yes i know, i have the Aquaero. But i like the big Display from the Guardian LCD ... and now I want it


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> Yes i know, i have the Aquaero. But i like the big Display from the Guardian LCD ... and now I want it


Yeah, same. Would be fantastic in my build too. According to their facebook page it's Gene's fault they aren't for sale yet.
Quote:


> Had a long chat with Gene at Monsoon cooling, and he had a brilliant idea for our Guardian SB! So we are going to put off production for a bit to implement this thrilling upgrade. Trust me, it will be worth the wait!


Maybe he can shed some light on it for us.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> How can i buy products from this Company. Specially the Guardian LCD (http://www.justabunchofgeeks.com/#!guardain-lcd/c1k2b) i can't find in the I-Net.
> In Facebook I see a shop, but i can't conclude a sale .


I asked Paul to come into the thread to field this sort of question. He is actually mid flight between hemispheres right now but said he would as soon as he was settled in.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Yeah, same. Would be fantastic in my build too. According to their facebook page it's Gene's fault they aren't for sale yet.
> Maybe he can shed some light on it for us.


I don't really Facebook so I have no idea...


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I don't really Facebook so I have no idea...


I don't either, they had a link on their page to their facebook account so i clicked it to see if there was any more info and the last post they made was the quote I linked. Said you had a brilliant idea for their Guardian SB so they were holding off on production to implement it


----------



## BoxGods

Beats me =)


----------



## iBruce

@BoxGods, Was wondering what metal is underneath the Monsoon silver plating?

Picked up a 6-pack of the 7/16x5/8 Free Center Compression not long ago. Thanks.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-free-center-compression-fittings-7-16-x-5-8-six-pack-matte-black.html

edit: found it, brass, wow the barb is such light weight for brass.

Asking since I'm removing the silver plating from my barbs and going with either a nickel or copper plating.


----------



## wermad

Kinda was hoping the D5 kit would easily bolt on but you have to add an adapter. Might just do a modular res for now. It really adds up quite easily when you start to let your imagination run with the multitude of combinations!









thinking of a 100+50+100.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kinda was hoping the D5 kit would easily bolt on but you have to add an adapter. Might just do a modular res for now. It really adds up quite easily when you start to let your imagination run with the multitude of combinations!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thinking of a 100+50+100.


Tell me about it







Spent way more money on this project than I'm willing to admit.

On a plus side should have it up and running this evening


----------



## wermad

Awesome


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> @BoxGods, Was wondering what metal is underneath the Monsoon silver plating?
> 
> Picked up a 6-pack of the 7/16x5/8 Free Center Compression not long ago. Thanks.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-free-center-compression-fittings-7-16-x-5-8-six-pack-matte-black.html
> 
> edit: found it, brass, wow the barb is such light weight for brass.
> 
> Asking since I'm removing the silver plating from my barbs and going with either a nickel or copper plating.


I don't want to start the whole galvanic corrosion debate in here...but there is no need to remove the silver. The barb is also coated on the exterior surface with a marine grade non conductive epoxy. If you don't want to take my word for it just throw a meter on it and see for yourself. Or you can just keep paying $10 a liter for for fancy fluids that are forty cents worth of distilled water.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> Kinda was hoping the D5 kit would easily bolt on but you have to add an adapter. Might just do a modular res for now. It really adds up quite easily when you start to let your imagination run with the multitude of combinations!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thinking of a 100+50+100.


Not sure what you mean? The D5 TRP end does just bolt on.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Tell me about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spent way more money on this project than I'm willing to admit.
> 
> On a plus side should have it up and running this evening


Yeah I am really looking forward to this one too!


----------



## DNMock

Won't be officially done, still waiting on the LED's and the compression fittings are sub-optimal and re-using the Mayhems Pastel I currently have running (got a spare bottle laying around to add since the increased volume).

When the next wave of GPU's come out in the spring time, that's when I'm gonna do a full tear-down of my build, change out the old tubing put proper fittings on the res, change the coolant to Distilled and UV dye etc. etc. that's when it will truly be officially done. But gonna get the install completed tonight at least.

Probably switch to the acrylic faceplates on the dual bays, and maybe Gene will have a good way to make the turns by then. I know he's damn busy at the moment and helped me probably way more than he should already and I'm extremely thankful for that.

The clear epoxy experiments are coming along well, so I will probably be making that change around then as well so the reservoir will be underneath at that point in time as well. Gotta lop off the bottom 4 inches of the desk to keep the height right but that shouldn't pose any issues. boring stuff, but yeah, never officially done.

As a side note, what are the thoughts on taking something like this: http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/5050-waterproof-uv-led-strip-light-ip68.html

and running it inside the reservoir. It's IP68 so it's designed to be completely submersed at all times.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Won't be officially done, still waiting on the LED's and the compression fittings are sub-optimal and re-using the Mayhems Pastel I currently have running (got a spare bottle laying around to add since the increased volume).
> 
> When the next wave of GPU's come out in the spring time, that's when I'm gonna do a full tear-down of my build, change out the old tubing put proper fittings on the res, change the coolant to Distilled and UV dye etc. etc. that's when it will truly be officially done. But gonna get the install completed tonight at least.
> 
> Probably switch to the acrylic faceplates on the dual bays, and maybe Gene will have a good way to make the turns by then. I know he's damn busy at the moment and helped me probably way more than he should already and I'm extremely thankful for that.
> 
> The clear epoxy experiments are coming along well, so I will probably be making that change around then as well so the reservoir will be underneath at that point in time as well. Gotta lop off the bottom 4 inches of the desk to keep the height right but that shouldn't pose any issues. boring stuff, but yeah, never officially done.
> 
> As a side note, what are the thoughts on taking something like this: http://www.alibaba.com/showroom/5050-waterproof-uv-led-strip-light-ip68.html
> 
> and running it inside the reservoir. It's IP68 so it's designed to be completely submersed at all times.


Don't know for sure on the submerged strips but seems like it should work.

On the Elbows...I was under the impression you wanted to go with the black silicone ones yu found so I stopped tinkering with that...


----------



## wermad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not sure what you mean? The D5 TRP end does just bolt on.


I thought the D5 kit's top was a straight fit for a tube, but you need the adapter. I should have read the title first rather then drooling over the pictures. It says "stand alone" for the D5 kit









edit: along the lines of the Koolance d5 top that can attach a res


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> @BoxGods, Was wondering what metal is underneath the Monsoon silver plating?
> 
> Picked up a 6-pack of the 7/16x5/8 Free Center Compression not long ago. Thanks.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-free-center-compression-fittings-7-16-x-5-8-six-pack-matte-black.html
> 
> edit: found it, brass, wow the barb is such light weight for brass.
> 
> Asking since I'm removing the silver plating from my barbs and going with either a nickel or copper plating.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't want to start the whole galvanic corrosion debate in here...but there is no need to remove the silver. The barb is also coated on the exterior surface with a marine grade non conductive epoxy. If you don't want to take my word for it just throw a meter on it and see for yourself. Or you can just keep paying $10 a liter for for fancy fluids that are forty cents worth of distilled water.
Click to expand...

Are all the silver fittings the same makeup? If so this puts my mind at ease. Although I run only Distilled/No Dyes/Additives.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wermad*
> 
> I thought the D5 kit's top was a straight fit for a tube, but you need the adapter. I should have read the title first rather then drooling over the pictures. It says "stand alone" for the D5 kit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: along the lines of the Koolance d5 top that can attach a res
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The SAP (Stand Alone Pump) is just for the pump so that you can have a separate pump that matches the reservoir style. The TRP is so that you can attach a D5 directly to the reservoir--it does not require you to also get the TRP.


----------



## DNMock

Got it put together, needs some fine tuning, speakers need remounted, elbows need to be shortened, still gotta bolt it down properly, but it's functional now at the very least.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Don't know for sure on the submerged strips but seems like it should work.
> 
> On the Elbows...I was under the impression you wanted to go with the black silicone ones yu found so I stopped tinkering with that...


I am, just saying if down the road you happen to have an epiphany and make something awesome, I'd add it to the set-up since it's never officially done anyway.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Got it put together, needs some fine tuning, speakers need remounted, elbows need to be shortened, still gotta bolt it down properly, but it's functional now at the very least.
> 
> 
> I am, just saying if down the road you happen to have an epiphany and make something awesome, I'd add it to the set-up since it's never officially done anyway.


If it is ever "done" you're just not trying hard enough =)


----------



## JBOG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> How can i buy products from this Company. Specially the Guardian LCD (http://www.justabunchofgeeks.com/#!guardain-lcd/c1k2b) i can't find in the I-Net.
> In Facebook I see a shop, but i can't conclude a sale .


Following the forum rules, I cannot comment on that directly, but I did just update our website, and I believe you visited our facebook page and left a message. I recently answered. Check our website again for more info.


----------



## JBOG

Edited


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JBOG*
> 
> Following the forum rules, I cannot comment on that directly, but I did just update our website, and I believe you visited our facebook page and left a message. I recently answered. Check our website again for more info.


How many watts does each channel handle? Also with so many controllers and LCD screen and such, if it's stressed fully would actively cooling it be required?

Also, it's really sexy looking.

edit: Also did you guys already meet your kickstarter goal?


----------



## delerious

Do you have any solid couplers? Example: separate CPU and GPU loops - connect the 2 reservoirs together so they're still separate loops (with or without pump end caps).


----------



## CrazyCreator

I have bought this fittings: CGH-1258-4-BL

can I use these pipes: PETG-1258-4-BL

Why I ask ?
My old Acryl pipes have Dimension from 16/13 mm and the new PETG Pipes have 16/12mm ... is this ok with the "old" fittings?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> Do you have any solid couplers? Example: separate CPU and GPU loops - connect the 2 reservoirs together so they're still separate loops (with or without pump end caps).


We have a mating kit launching in 10 days or so that allows you to mate two couplers together either as a bulkhead pass thru or as two separate/discrete reservoirs. That should suite your needs.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> I have bought this fittings: CGH-1258-4-BL
> 
> can I use these pipes: PETG-1258-4-BL
> 
> Why I ask ?
> My old Acryl pipes have Dimension from 16/13 mm and the new PETG Pipes have 16/12mm ... is this ok with the "old" fittings?


For hard line fittings since there is no internal "barb" the only "critical" dimension is the OD (outside diameter) so you should be fine.


----------



## CrazyCreator

ok ... thanks for the info


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> ok ... thanks for the info


The fly in your profile pic got me...tried to shoo it off my screen not once, not twice...but THREE times before I figured it out lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Too bad I couldn't take advantage of PPCs black Friday deal on fittings. I need a total of 28 of them an only have half. That woulda been a nice Xmas bonus.









~Ceadder


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The fly in your profile pic got me...tried to shoo it off my screen not once, not twice...but THREE times before I figured it out lol.


That makes me happy. But are not the first with this "problem".


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We have a mating kit launching in 10 days or so that allows you to mate two couplers together either as a bulkhead pass thru or as two separate/discrete reservoirs. That should suite your needs.


Great news. Thanks.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> That makes me happy. But are not the first with this "problem".


It looks so "3D". The next time I have a real fly on my display I am going to load this page just to see what it does =)


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The fly in your profile pic got me...tried to shoo it off my screen not once, not twice...but THREE times before I figured it out lol.


I'm using a 40" TV for a monitor...I jumped when i noticed that monster lol


----------



## JbstormburstADV

What is the mounting width of the mounts for the reservoir? I wanna know if I can get this thing to fit on the rear panel of my Enthoo Primo without running into any issues.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It looks so "3D". The next time I have a real fly on my display I am going to load this page just to see what it does =)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I'm using a 40" TV for a monitor...I jumped when i noticed that monster lol


LOL

we'll see what happens when real fly and virtual fly







... maybe we have then a drone?









Any news about a release date in Germany?


----------



## rathar3

There is my new MMRS pump housing sitting in my X2. I was amazed at the quality of all the Monsoon items i have bought. I have worked with all size style and make of fittings in my life but i was just blown away by the quality of Monsoon. I mean they are made for show which i understand but still they are really nice. The 45 and 90deg fittings are heavy and well machined. They fit my 1/2 x 3/4 free center fittings perfectly.

They ROCK !!!!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> What is the mounting width of the mounts for the reservoir? I wanna know if I can get this thing to fit on the rear panel of my Enthoo Primo without running into any issues.


77mm


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> LOL
> 
> we'll see what happens when real fly and virtual fly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... maybe we have then a drone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any news about a release date in Germany?


Still trying to catch up and the teething issues with the launch slowed us down a bit. Still trying for December but to be safe you should plan on January. Sorry for the delay but these things tend to go at their own pace no matter how hard we try.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> 
> 
> There is my new MMRS pump housing sitting in my X2. I was amazed at the quality of all the Monsoon items i have bought. I have worked with all size style and make of fittings in my life but i was just blown away by the quality of Monsoon. I mean they are made for show which i understand but still they are really nice. The 45 and 90deg fittings are heavy and well machined. They fit my 1/2 x 3/4 free center fittings perfectly.
> 
> They ROCK !!!!


Thanks for the kind words =)


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Still trying to catch up and the teething issues with the launch slowed us down a bit. Still trying for December but to be safe you should plan on January. Sorry for the delay but these things tend to go at their own pace no matter how hard we try.


No problem. It is important that they come to Germany. The shipping and customs duties from USA is too expensive


----------



## DNMock

So I can't get a good picture of it, but the LED UV lights up against the UV reservoir, even with Opaque pastel coolant dyed non-uv blue, looks absolutely gorgeous. For a while I was a little underwhelmed by the project, but with the UV glow, it's gorgeous.









Nice soft blue glow from the reservoirs.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> So I can't get a good picture of it, but the LED UV lights up against the UV reservoir, even with Opaque pastel coolant dyed non-uv blue, looks absolutely gorgeous. For a while I was a little underwhelmed by the project, but with the UV glow, it's gorgeous.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice soft blue glow from the reservoirs.


If possible, I'd love to see a picture (any picture really)! I'll be using pastel for my next build and was under the impression that lighting up the reservoir like that wouldn't do much good.


----------



## Blackseep

What is the screw size for the fill/drain port cap?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> If possible, I'd love to see a picture (any picture really)! I'll be using pastel for my next build and was under the impression that lighting up the reservoir like that wouldn't do much good.


Camera sucks, and I gotta align them right to get rid of the reflection on the acrylic below them, but here ya go:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









First two pictures are more accurate, the 3rd makes it look like it's glowing brighter than it really is.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Camera sucks, and I gotta align them right to get rid of the reflection on the acrylic below them, but here ya go:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First two pictures are more accurate, the 3rd makes it look like it's glowing brighter than it really is.


Well guess i'll just have to come and see it in person!







Haha.

That looks awesome! You said that those were the UV Lights not the Blue LED light? I wonder if the reservoir being frosted had anything to do with that effect turning out so well!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Well guess i'll just have to come and see it in person!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha.
> 
> That looks awesome! You said that those were the UV Lights not the Blue LED light? I wonder if the reservoir being frosted had anything to do with that effect turning out so well!


The Reservoir tubes are the UV blue, but I figured the pastel would block it too much to make it worth a darn.

Here is a decent comparison shot with the lights on vs off:


----------



## Tomiger

Looks awesome! Definitely gives me more to think about whenever I finally pick out a reservoir.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackseep*
> 
> What is the screw size for the fill/drain port cap?


M4 for both types.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Camera sucks, and I gotta align them right to get rid of the reflection on the acrylic below them, but here ya go:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First two pictures are more accurate, the 3rd makes it look like it's glowing brighter than it really is.


That's beautiful, gratz


----------



## ruffhi

I've seen videos on using Monsoon Free Center Hardline Compression Fittings with the 'collar' ... are there similar videos for the Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fittings? Any special 'tricks' to using them?


----------



## RichardNixon

I've been looking at the Monsoon products for a while and I've finally ordered a big kit from Performance-PCs. The product design is amazing, I'm excited to get them in. I do wish there was more retailers stocking parts - PPC was out of a few things and I could find a few on Amazon, but I'm waiting on backorder for a few.

One problem I was having when shopping for parts is that I wanted to use lots of 90* connectors instead of bending my rigid tubing, for aesthetic purposes. I then realized that the 90* fittings had one male and one female end, so I couldn't attach compressing fittings to both sides. I had to order female-female adapters to put on one side of the fittings, but they're going to be a few mm smaller OD so it looks just a bit off. It would be great if the male end of the couplers were removable.

Thanks for producing such cool products. The modular reservoir is definitely my favorite part of your whole lineup. I look forward to being able to review the different parts and post a few build pictures.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> I've been looking at the Monsoon products for a while and I've finally ordered a big kit from Performance-PCs. The product design is amazing, I'm excited to get them in. I do wish there was more retailers stocking parts - PPC was out of a few things and I could find a few on Amazon, but I'm waiting on backorder for a few.
> 
> One problem I was having when shopping for parts is that I wanted to use lots of 90* connectors instead of bending my rigid tubing, for aesthetic purposes. I then realized that the 90* fittings had one male and one female end, so I couldn't attach compressing fittings to both sides. I had to order female-female adapters to put on one side of the fittings, but they're going to be a few mm smaller OD so it looks just a bit off. It would be great if the male end of the couplers were removable.
> 
> Thanks for producing such cool products. The modular reservoir is definitely my favorite part of your whole lineup. I look forward to being able to review the different parts and post a few build pictures.


Thanks for the kind words =)

Both ends of the 90 degree light port rotaries are female--the bottom of the "T" is male...not sure how you could do a rotary without the base being male.

PPCS has a big order shipping in the next week or so--packing it as fast as we can =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've seen videos on using Monsoon Free Center Hardline Compression Fittings with the 'collar' ... are there similar videos for the Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fittings? Any special 'tricks' to using them?


They are more like the traditional push in type fitting--the O riung seals to the side of the tube IOW. Pretty straight forward to use. Just be sure to wash the end of your tube with warm soapy water (NOT Windex or glass cleaner!) to get any oil from handling off the tube so it is gripped better. I think PPCS has the economy fittings on super sale so if your interested now would be a good time.


----------



## BoxGods

Quick update:

I got replacement TRP parts and TRP screws in the mail today for those waiting on them. I *THINK* I got everyone. If you don't see them by about Wednesday maybe shoot me an email.


----------



## RichardNixon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words =)
> 
> Both ends of the 90 degree light port rotaries are female--the bottom of the "T" is male...not sure how you could do a rotary without the base being male.
> 
> PPCS has a big order shipping in the next week or so--packing it as fast as we can =)


I might not be using the right words when I say rotary, I'm not very mechanical so I'm just using the word I saw on the description. I'm just looking for a way to make a 90* bend using compression fittings and without getting out a heat gun to actually bend the plastic. I like the look at compression fittings on both ends of a bend to give a more mechanical look.

I ended up getting some of these to attach to the male ends of the 90* rotaries and allow for me to fit a compression fitting on that end.


----------



## Jiryama

Hey, this might be kind of crazy but would you be able to tell me how much the 250mm with fluid and caps and a light connected would weigh?? I am having to do a bit of modding and I need to make sure that it will be secure enough and not too much weight with what I am wanting to do.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Hey, this might be kind of crazy but would you be able to tell me how much the 250mm with fluid and caps and a light connected would weigh?? I am having to do a bit of modding and I need to make sure that it will be secure enough and not too much weight with what I am wanting to do.


the water itself would weigh .7 KG or about 1.5 lbs, res and caps maybe another lb, rods maybe one more, so all in all high end estimate would be close to 5 lbs fully loaded. Truthfully probably closer to 4 lbs.


----------



## DNMock

So the lights in my Dual bay reservoir are broken, any way to order just the board and lights associated to it? Decided in a stroke of genius that I was just gonna splice the wires from the reservoir to the led light strip wires all while talking on the phone. Turns out the reservoir LED's aren't big fans of being plugged into the 12 volt hot wire on a molex cable....

Or would it be best to just go ahead and get a pair of single led bulbs and skip the whole board that's in there.


----------



## RichardNixon

Well I placed the rest of my order for my first water cooling loop. I'm ashamed to say the monsoon parts alone ended up costing about $475 before adding those female adapters, some dye, and a few misc items. I'm going for a black chrome rotary / mmrs parts, gold compression fittings, and green lighting and fluid dye with clear tubing.

Performance-pcs confirmed that I have to wait on the d5 reservoir bottom that's on backorder despite their site still showing stock. I'm in Austin so I was crossing my fingers that I could convince them to ask for the last part to just be mailed to me but it turns out the parts are shipped from China. Oh well. Amazon has killed my ability to wait more than a weekend for stuff to arrive.

I'm nervous about all the measuring and cutting, with this being my first try at water cooling, but I think I ordered enough tube to afford to mess a bit up. I look forward to those immersable ccfls you were posting about.

As a general question, does anyone have suggestions for a good ccfl inverter? I need to power 4 lights (maybe more in the future). There's one from mod/smart on performance-pcs but it's out of stock and I can't find anything on amazon, Newegg, or any lesser site.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Well I placed the rest of my order for my first water cooling loop. I'm ashamed to say the monsoon parts alone ended up costing about $475 before adding those female adapters, some dye, and a few misc items. I'm going for a black chrome rotary / mmrs parts, gold compression fittings, and green lighting and fluid dye with clear tubing.
> 
> Performance-pcs confirmed that I have to wait on the d5 reservoir bottom that's on backorder despite their site still showing stock. I'm in Austin so I was crossing my fingers that I could convince them to ask for the last part to just be mailed to me but it turns out the parts are shipped from China. Oh well. Amazon has killed my ability to wait more than a weekend for stuff to arrive.
> 
> I'm nervous about all the measuring and cutting, with this being my first try at water cooling, but I think I ordered enough tube to afford to mess a bit up. I look forward to those immersable ccfls you were posting about.
> 
> As a general question, does anyone have suggestions for a good ccfl inverter? I need to power 4 lights (maybe more in the future). There's one from mod/smart on performance-pcs but it's out of stock and I can't find anything on amazon, Newegg, or any lesser site.


Should be able to pick one up at home depot. They are just basic AC/DC inverters I believe. If you have an old cigarette lighter phone charger laying around you could even just use that. (just pay attention to the voltage when you do, else you end up doing something stupid like I just did.)

As for the hardline tubing, it's not too bad once you get used to it. The cutting and sanding is the easy part, getting your bends correct is where it gets tricky, so try and limit the number of wacky bends your first time around. Avoid multiple bends by just using extra fittings, like if you have a long piece of pipe that needs 3 bends in a single run, just nix that and use 90 degree adapter fittings and straight runs of tubing. A good tool to invest in to help get your measurements precise is one of these digital calipers.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> They are more like the traditional push in type fitting--the O riung seals to the side of the tube IOW. Pretty straight forward to use. Just be sure to wash the end of your tube with warm soapy water (NOT Windex or glass cleaner!) to get any oil from handling off the tube so it is gripped better.


Thanks. I'll do that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> I think PPCS has the economy fittings on super sale so if your interested now would be a good time.


Yeah - I found that out today ... hence my order of 18 black and 18 white ones


----------



## RichardNixon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Should be able to pick one up at home depot. They are just basic AC/DC inverters I believe. If you have an old cigarette lighter phone charger laying around you could even just use that. (just pay attention to the voltage when you do, else you end up doing something stupid like I just did.)
> 
> As for the hardline tubing, it's not too bad once you get used to it. The cutting and sanding is the easy part, getting your bends correct is where it gets tricky, so try and limit the number of wacky bends your first time around. Avoid multiple bends by just using extra fittings, like if you have a long piece of pipe that needs 3 bends in a single run, just nix that and use 90 degree adapter fittings and straight runs of tubing. A good tool to invest in to help get your measurements precise is one of these digital calipers.


Hmm thanks. I don't have the ccfl here yet but I understand that they have a "standard inverter plug" attached. Are you saying that I can find an inverter ready to go at home depot that will fit those plugs, or just the general inverter hardware and it would need wiring to connect to the ccfl and case psu? I've never done electrical work before so it's definitely a new idea to consider actually building an inverter.

I'll admit, I chose to go with rotaries at every angle for aesthetics, but it was definitely a comfort to not have to worry about getting out the mandrels and bending all the tubing to spec. I watched the monsoon video on bending and the idea of building a scale model to measure and bend on was definitely way out of my league.

I am concerned about getting the distance of each tube right before I cut it. I'm planning on building my pc, hooking up all the fittings, and then measuring right in the case. Now that I think about it, a dremel sounds great to actually make cuts on the fly instead of using the cutting kit from PPCS. Hmm...


----------



## Tomiger

Not to be a Monsoon fan-boy (but I truly enjoy their products!) the hard-line bending kit was really worth the investment when I undertook my first attempt at doing rigid tubing. The mandrels really helped get those perfect 90-degree bends and the measuring tools worked out really nicely as well.

My first (and only, at the moment) attempt at rigid tubing was by no means simple and I didn't use any adapter fittings for the bends. Out of all the sections of tubing I did, 4 sections that had right angle bends in multiple planes and two of those sections had 4 bends (as this was my first time bending, it took me several attempts to get results that I was satisfied with).

So if you have the extra funds, I would highly recommend the kit!

EDIT: I say this based off of my personal preference; I rather see nice clean bends than fittings at every bend. Also, I didn't make a scale model or anything. While that can be helpful, I don't think Gene's intention was to say that it was necessary; I think it was just for the video demonstration. I made all my measurements on my components as they were in the case (well, it was a desk-computer).


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Not to be a Monsoon fan-boy (but I truly enjoy their products!) the hard-line bending kit was really worth the investment when I undertook my first attempt at doing rigid tubing. The mandrels really helped get those perfect 90-degree bends and the measuring tools worked out really nicely as well.
> 
> My first (and only, at the moment) attempt at rigid tubing was by no means simple and I didn't use any adapter fittings for the bends I did 4 sections of tubes that had right angle bends in multiple planes and two of those sections had 4 bends (as this was my first time bending, it took me several attempts to get results that I was satisfied with).
> 
> So if you have the extra funds, I would highly recommend the kit!
> 
> EDIT: I say this based off of my personal preference; I rather see nice clean bends than fittings at every bend. Also, I didn't make a scale model or anything. While that can be helpful, I don't think Gene's intention was to say that it was necessary; I think it was just for the video demonstration. I made all my measurements on my components as they were in the case (well, it was a desk-computer).


To be a Monsoon fan-boy(because I truly love their products!) could you post a link to that kit for me and others?


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> To be a Monsoon fan-boy(because I truly love their products!) could you post a link to that kit for me and others?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/acrylic-tube-tools/monsoon-hardline-all-pro-deluxe-bender-kit-1-2-x-5-8-16mm.html

Here you go! You can also buy each thing separately, in case you only want mandrels or whatever. Of course, there are kits for the other size(s) of tubing.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/acrylic-tube-tools/monsoon-hardline-all-pro-deluxe-bender-kit-1-2-x-5-8-16mm.html
> 
> Here you go! You can also buy each thing separately, in case you only want mandrels or whatever. Of course, there are kits for the other size(s) of tubing.


Thanks for that! Will help a lot as I make my first dive in WC especially hardline! (Acrylic/PETG, haven't decided yet)

And thanks gene for a nicely done kit, everything I need in one place! I did have a question for you, would the inlets on the reservoir cap allow for smaller tube of some sort to to lead inside the reservoir to keep from water splashing? I know I have seen the item somewhere and i don't know what its called but it exists, just wasn't sure if it would work. Hope that makes sense!









Edit - HA! It is an Aqua-Pipe


----------



## Ceadderman

Stupid question.

Measurement is Inside to Inside...

Or Inside to outside?









Only ask cuz I have forgotten and someone asked me.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Hmm thanks. I don't have the ccfl here yet but I understand that they have a "standard inverter plug" attached. Are you saying that I can find an inverter ready to go at home depot that will fit those plugs, or just the general inverter hardware and it would need wiring to connect to the ccfl and case psu? I've never done electrical work before so it's definitely a new idea to consider actually building an inverter.
> 
> I'll admit, I chose to go with rotaries at every angle for aesthetics, but it was definitely a comfort to not have to worry about getting out the mandrels and bending all the tubing to spec. I watched the monsoon video on bending and the idea of building a scale model to measure and bend on was definitely way out of my league.
> 
> I am concerned about getting the distance of each tube right before I cut it. I'm planning on building my pc, hooking up all the fittings, and then measuring right in the case. Now that I think about it, a dremel sounds great to actually make cuts on the fly instead of using the cutting kit from PPCS. Hmm...


You would need to do some wiring, which isn't hard at all to do as long as you are paying attention while you are doing it. If it's something you would want to learn how to do, this would actually be a prime time to do it, since if you screw up and break it, you are only out a few bucks rather than $100's and once you get the hang of it, it can literally save you thousands in the future. Not with computers obviously, but on your car and around the house.

If it's something you would be willing to try I'd be glad to give you a walk-through on how to do it. I'll actually pay attention so as not to derp and short it out like I just did on my rig haha.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Stupid question.
> 
> Measurement is Inside to Inside...
> 
> Or Inside to outside?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only ask cuz I have forgotten and someone asked me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The reservoir's are OD 60mm


----------



## coookiemunster

Reservoirs test mounted mounted. still a lot of work to do. think i will need to repaint the end caps before i am done.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Stupid question.
> 
> Measurement is Inside to Inside...
> 
> Or Inside to outside?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only ask cuz I have forgotten and someone asked me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reservoir's are OD 60mm
Click to expand...

I was referring to the measurement technique involved with bending using the measuring tools.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> So the lights in my Dual bay reservoir are broken, any way to order just the board and lights associated to it? Decided in a stroke of genius that I was just gonna splice the wires from the reservoir to the led light strip wires all while talking on the phone. Turns out the reservoir LED's aren't big fans of being plugged into the 12 volt hot wire on a molex cable....
> 
> Or would it be best to just go ahead and get a pair of single led bulbs and skip the whole board that's in there.


Yeah they prefer 5V =)

Email me your shipping address and I can get replacement boards in the mail.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was referring to the measurement technique involved with bending using the measuring tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


For bending tube the best way to do your measuring is on the center line of the tube. The measuring kit and the mandrels are designed to work with center lines by default.

If you are doing your first build with hard lines I strongly recommend using PETG as it is much more forgiving on reheating and rebending.

Also you can find our working with hard line how to videos on our channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q

I am also happy to answer any questions--everyone in here is--so don't be shy about asking. One of the best part about modding and water cooling is the community.

PPCS has a shipment in transit that *should* be there Monday or Tuesday so they should be fully stocked on MMRS parts then.


----------



## BoxGods

We are also working on an inverter. Will be Mid January till it is done but you can find the little blue ones in Auto parts stores where they sell light kits for tricking out cars.


----------



## JbstormburstADV

You mentioned that the effective height of a reservoir is equivalent to the height of the tube in the reservoir. Is this also true for the distance between the screws for the mounting mechanism, or is the distance a few millimeters less since it only comes to the middle of the top? If so, how much off between both caps?

Also, any chance you will ever be coming with a quick disconnect, or am I out of luck there?


----------



## RichardNixon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We are also working on an inverter. Will be Mid January till it is done but you can find the little blue ones in Auto parts stores where they sell light kits for tricking out cars.


Any advice on how to get those blue ones running in a case for someone without the knowledge or desire to start soldering or doing wiring stuff? Or would it be best to wait until january for your version? I can only imagine what you guys are going to be coming out with. Please let it have a lot of ports...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was referring to the measurement technique involved with bending using the measuring tools.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For bending tube the best way to do your measuring is on the center line of the tube. The measuring kit and the mandrels are designed to work with center lines by default.
> 
> If you are doing your first build with hard lines I strongly recommend using PETG as it is much more forgiving on reheating and rebending.
> 
> Also you can find our working with hard line how to videos on our channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q
> 
> I am also happy to answer any questions--everyone in here is--so don't be shy about asking. One of the best part about modding and water cooling is the community.
> 
> PPCS has a shipment in transit that *should* be there Monday or Tuesday so they should be fully stocked on MMRS parts then.
Click to expand...

I get the Center Line Aspect. But I'm asking if the Rule goes Half out from the Inside should it go half out to the other fitting on the Inside or the outside of the Opposite fitting. This is an unclear aspect imho and led me to use the 45* Mandrel as my main tool of measurement. But a friend of mine asked and it brought up this question once again. I told him that I would ask and it wasn't that clear in the Video. Not that I'm giving you a bad critique, just thought about it and remembered that was my only issue on the matter. I used the rules more for guessimation of overall length than perfect fitment. And I agree with you that PETG is the better way to go for a first time bender, which is what I advised him to get if he wished to go with hardline.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> You mentioned that the effective height of a reservoir is equivalent to the height of the tube in the reservoir. Is this also true for the distance between the screws for the mounting mechanism, or is the distance a few millimeters less since it only comes to the middle of the top? If so, how much off between both caps?
> 
> Also, any chance you will ever be coming with a quick disconnect, or am I out of luck there?


Not 100% sure I understand the question, (more me being dense than you asking badly). When I say that the listed length of a tube is the installed length that means 3mm of tube on each end that fits into the grooves on the end caps is accounted for--said another way the actual tube length for a 200mm tube is 206mm but once installed there is only 200mm of length added to the total reservoir length. That does not include the length added by any couplers or end caps--to get those numbers check out the dimensions chart.

For the mounting screws, (the screws that pass thru the mounts into the end caps and couplers) the distance between them is 26mm center to center.

If you mean the distance between mounts...you should measure after assembly but as a general rule of thumb figure listed tube length plus 12mm on each end. As an example, if you configured a single tube reservoir using a 200mm tube the mounts would be approximately 224mm apart--again center to center.

If you had a two tube segment reservoir that used a coupler, two end caps, and two 100mm tubes the distance between mounts would be:

mount / 124mm / mount / 124mm / mount.

Hope that covers your question =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Any advice on how to get those blue ones running in a case for someone without the knowledge or desire to start soldering or doing wiring stuff? Or would it be best to wait until january for your version? I can only imagine what you guys are going to be coming out with. Please let it have a lot of ports...


To be candid I am not sure why the little blue inverters seemed to disappear at PPCS almost over night. Hank tells me the company that made the higher end inverters they used to sell went out of business. It's like I looked away for 5 minutes and inverters dried up. I think it is because they are so cheap there simply is not any money in them.

You can try this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/280757880616?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I get the Center Line Aspect. But I'm asking if the Rule goes Half out from the Inside should it go half out to the other fitting on the Inside or the outside of the Opposite fitting. This is an unclear aspect imho and led me to use the 45* Mandrel as my main tool of measurement. But a friend of mine asked and it brought up this question once again. I told him that I would ask and it wasn't that clear in the Video. Not that I'm giving you a bad critique, just thought about it and remembered that was my only issue on the matter. I used the rules more for guessimation of overall length than perfect fitment. And I agree with you that PETG is the better way to go for a first time bender, which is what I advised him to get if he wished to go with hardline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Another one I am not 100% clear on the question. Are you asking about how to calculate the part of the tube that gets inserted in the fitting when your making your measurement? If so I thought I covered it in the measuring kit video. I just insert a tube into my fitting all the way, add a piece of blue painters tap to mark how deep it goes in, then pull the tube out and measure that distance. Then w/e that number is just remember to add it to the last leg on each end of your tube--the part that goes into a fitting.

If your asking where to measure from on a bend--like the inside or outside edge of the tube...again that is why we use center lines as they make that a non issue


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not 100% sure I understand the question, (more me being dense than you asking badly). When I say that the listed length of a tube is the installed length that means 3mm of tube on each end that fits into the grooves on the end caps is accounted for--said another way the actual tube length for a 200mm tube is 206mm but once installed there is only 200mm of length added to the total reservoir length. That does not include the length added by any couplers or end caps--to get those numbers check out the dimensions chart.
> 
> For the mounting screws, (the screws that pass thru the mounts into the end caps and couplers) the distance between them is 26mm center to center.
> 
> If you mean the distance between mounts...you should measure after assembly but as a general rule of thumb figure listed tube length plus 12mm on each end. As an example, if you configured a single tube reservoir using a 200mm tube the mounts would be approximately 224mm apart--again center to center.
> 
> If you had a two tube segment reservoir that used a coupler, two end caps, and two 100mm tubes the distance between mounts would be:
> 
> mount / 124mm / mount / 124mm / mount.
> 
> Hope that covers your question =)


Yes, that answers my question pretty thoroughly. Thank you, and I hope to have an MMRS and some matching fittings in my build. Just need to measure out holes to drill for the mount in the reservoir bracket...


----------



## Unnatural

In case this could help anybody, I've tested the cathodes with the inverters from Revoltec neon kits, and they seems to work fine.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I get the Center Line Aspect. But I'm asking if the Rule goes Half out from the Inside should it go half out to the other fitting on the Inside or the outside of the Opposite fitting. This is an unclear aspect imho and led me to use the 45* Mandrel as my main tool of measurement. But a friend of mine asked and it brought up this question once again. I told him that I would ask and it wasn't that clear in the Video. Not that I'm giving you a bad critique, just thought about it and remembered that was my only issue on the matter. I used the rules more for guessimation of overall length than perfect fitment. And I agree with you that PETG is the better way to go for a first time bender, which is what I advised him to get if he wished to go with hardline.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another one I am not 100% clear on the question. Are you asking about how to calculate the part of the tube that gets inserted in the fitting when your making your measurement? If so I thought I covered it in the measuring kit video. I just insert a tube into my fitting all the way, add a piece of blue painters tap to mark how deep it goes in, then pull the tube out and measure that distance. Then w/e that number is just remember to add it to the last leg on each end of your tube--the part that goes into a fitting.
> 
> If your asking where to measure from on a bend--like the inside or outside edge of the tube...again that is why we use center lines as they make that a non issue
Click to expand...

Okay maybe it's me.

I measure from the right edge of the rule to the Center of the Fitting so that the internal channel is at the outer edge of the fitting. What I am asking is if the other end right edge of the rule goes to the center of the other fitting or to the outer edge of the fitting. Sometimes it's{the tubing) too long and sometimes it's too short. Unless I need to put the center of the rule to the center of the fitting maybe? See this is where your video leaves me scratching my head. You did account for the internal length of the fitting and I didn't have any issue with that at all.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

I understand now. You're not asking if it is the inside or outside of the tube that is measured--you're asking if you use the inside or outside edge of the rules once they are clamped together to simulate the tube path you want.

Technically you could use either edge but from my personal experience I have found that it is easier to stick with the inside edge if at all possible. In a few rare circumstances--usually based on space constraints in a very tight space--you may find using the outside edge is the only way you can fit the rules into your working envelope. I have even had a few times where I needed to use a combination of inside and outside edges to get my dimensions. These are very rare and 95% of the time the inside edge is the best choice.

If for some reason you find you have to use the outside edge or a combination of both just picture the straight line path the center of the tube would follow as you get your dimensions and match that path to your measuring edges. A "best practice" for measuring and bending tube is to teach yourself to only think of the center line of the tube and when you measure think of the edges of your rules as that center line and when you draw out your dimensions on your building board same thing.

Sounds more complicated to read it than it actually is to do it. Including a graphic below for illustration.


----------



## Ceadderman

Thanks for the response Gino. I will pass it along to my friend Isaac. He saw what I was working on(awaiting fittings and Res) and really liked the look of it. Which is how this question came about. But that certainly cleared up my own uncertainties as well.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jiryama

Hey Gene,

Do you have any intentions to uploaded any of your 3d renderings of items or common built systems,(Like a complete 'X'mm system with a stand alone pump mount ) up to something like Google Sketchup 3D Warehouse ? Was thinking as I try to piece together my system on google sketchup win which I have no experience, that would be highly convenient. At the same time I am also assuming that you guys made 3d renders of parts and basic systems which I could be wrong in that.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Hey Gene,
> 
> Do you have any intentions to uploaded any of your 3d renderings of items or common built systems,(Like a complete 'X'mm system with a stand alone pump mount ) up to something like Google Sketchup 3D Warehouse ? Was thinking as I try to piece together my system on google sketchup win which I have no experience, that would be highly convenient. At the same time I am also assuming that you guys made 3d renders of parts and basic systems which I could be wrong in that.


It is on my to do list...a pretty long list but it IS something I want to do as I also like to pre plan my builds in 3D space so I know how helpful it is. I saw a program a while back somewhere that converted Solidworks files into Sketch Up models but I can't seem to find it now.


----------



## lagisforeplay

There are extensions that can be downloaded for SketchUp to import Solidwork files, I have used this one, but it seems to not support the latest release of SketchUp:

https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/simlab-solidworks-importer-sketchup


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagisforeplay*
> 
> There are extensions that can be downloaded for SketchUp to import Solidwork files, I have used this one, but it seems to not support the latest release of SketchUp:
> 
> https://extensions.sketchup.com/en/content/simlab-solidworks-importer-sketchup


I get an error:

"Can't insert empty component"

No idea what to do...


----------



## lagisforeplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I get an error:
> 
> "Can't insert empty component"
> 
> No idea what to do...


Do you have textures/materials in the SW design? If so try and remove a material (if possible) and color it instead. Also, what is the file size and version of SketchUP?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagisforeplay*
> 
> Do you have textures/materials in the SW design? If so try and remove a material (if possible) and color it instead. Also, what is the file size and version of SketchUP?


Will double check on the textures but I do not usually add textures in SW. Just color.

I tried SU8 and 16. SU8 does not have any way to even install that extension. 16 installed it OK but does not import--the error I mentioned.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Will double check on the textures but I do not usually add textures in SW. Just color.
> 
> I tried SU8 and 16. SU8 does not have any way to even install that extension. 16 installed it OK but does not import--the error I mentioned.


Found this in the comment section, it might help!


Spoiler: Can't insert empty component



"Was working perfectly but after upgrading from Windows 8.1 to 10, it fails to import - sketchup constantly reports "Cant insert empty component".

OK - Looks like a SOLIDWORKS 2015 file format is not supported. Loaded a 2013 file format, works OK. Need to update the compatibility description to limit the Solidworks version to 2013 (not sure which SP release) and below.

Good product, but error message next to useless."


----------



## thedoo

Is it possible to mount the reservoir to a radiator at all? Or 120mm fan?


----------



## RichardNixon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Is it possible to mount the reservoir to a radiator at all? Or 120mm fan?


You want to mount the res straight to a rad or fan? I can't really imagine how that would end up working. None of the mounts seem wide enough to fit holes on a 120mm rad/fan and I definitely wouldn't go drilling holes in the rad to mount the res to it. Maybe with a thick fan or a shroud you could somehow adhere the res to it, but I'd worry about it staying upright.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Is it possible to mount the reservoir to a radiator at all? Or 120mm fan?
> 
> 
> 
> You want to mount the res straight to a rad or fan? I can't really imagine how that would end up working. None of the mounts seem wide enough to fit holes on a 120mm rad/fan and I definitely wouldn't go drilling holes in the rad to mount the res to it. Maybe with a thick fan or a shroud you could somehow adhere the res to it, but I'd worry about it staying upright.
Click to expand...

You can get aftermarket brackets to do this, can't link them atm, but just search your fav wc etailer and you should find them.

EDIT: Something like this should work.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/un-designs-pump-z2-bracket-for-laing-d4-d5-ddc-pumps-120mm-fans-black.html


----------



## Ceadderman

Two UN brand "H" mounting brackets would do it just fine. One at one end and the other on the opposite. But you would have to make sure that the length of the Res would allow for that.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Shouldn't be too tough to fab a bracket to mount it directly to the radiator. Piece of sheet metal, grinder and blade, drill and a few screws.

I'd say take a panel off an old PC case, cut a pair of strips as long as the the radiator is wide. Drill holes where necessary. Mount the strips to the radiator where the fans would mount to it, then mount the reservoir to the strips. Done and done.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Found this in the comment section, it might help!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Can't insert empty component
> 
> 
> 
> "Was working perfectly but after upgrading from Windows 8.1 to 10, it fails to import - sketchup constantly reports "Cant insert empty component".
> 
> OK - Looks like a SOLIDWORKS 2015 file format is not supported. Loaded a 2013 file format, works OK. Need to update the compatibility description to limit the Solidworks version to 2013 (not sure which SP release) and below.
> 
> Good product, but error message next to useless."


So I spent all day yesterday and half the day today drawing out parts in Sketch Up. Got six parts done. When you spend all day every day in Solid Works...using Sketch Up is kind of like being hit over and over in the face with a stick. Then I read your post. All the .prt files are in SW 2015 so of course they will not open in earlier versions of SW but I saved a test part as an IGES file then opened it in SW 2011 and saved it as a .prt. Then tried an import...and IT WORKED =)

Seems to have scaled correctly also. Looks a tad clunky but good enough for sure. The next question is how to arrange the parts. My thought was to put all the parts into one file so people can use the ones they need and just delete the rest--saves downloading and opening 30 plus files and makes it pretty clear what parts are available.

I was also thinking I would add construction lines to each part group so it is easier to "snap" parts together with the move tool.

Thoughts?


----------



## ruffhi

No opinion apart from this would be good







. I bodged something together that 'looks' like a MMRS and is (more or less) the right size ... but I have no idea if the less important dimensions and joins are right.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Found this in the comment section, it might help!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Can't insert empty component
> 
> 
> 
> "Was working perfectly but after upgrading from Windows 8.1 to 10, it fails to import - sketchup constantly reports "Cant insert empty component".
> 
> OK - Looks like a SOLIDWORKS 2015 file format is not supported. Loaded a 2013 file format, works OK. Need to update the compatibility description to limit the Solidworks version to 2013 (not sure which SP release) and below.
> 
> Good product, but error message next to useless."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I spent all day yesterday and half the day today drawing out parts in Sketch Up. Got six parts done. When you spend all day every day in Solid Works...using Sketch Up is kind of like being hit over and over in the face with a stick. Then I read your post. All the .prt files are in SW 2015 so of course they will not open in earlier versions of SW but I saved a test part as an IGES file then opened it in SW 2011 and saved it as a .prt. Then tried an import...and IT WORKED =)
> 
> Seems to have scaled correctly also. Looks a tad clunky but good enough for sure. The next question is how to arrange the parts. My thought was to put all the parts into one file so people can use the ones they need and just delete the rest--saves downloading and opening 30 plus files and makes it pretty clear what parts are available.
> 
> I was also thinking I would add construction lines to each part group so it is easier to "snap" parts together with the move tool.
> 
> Thoughts?
Click to expand...

yes and yes imo


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> So I spent all day yesterday and half the day today drawing out parts in Sketch Up. Got six parts done. When you spend all day every day in Solid Works...using Sketch Up is kind of like being hit over and over in the face with a stick. Then I read your post. All the .prt files are in SW 2015 so of course they will not open in earlier versions of SW but I saved a test part as an IGES file then opened it in SW 2011 and saved it as a .prt. Then tried an import...and IT WORKED =)
> 
> Seems to have scaled correctly also. Looks a tad clunky but good enough for sure. The next question is how to arrange the parts. My thought was to put all the parts into one file so people can use the ones they need and just delete the rest--saves downloading and opening 30 plus files and makes it pretty clear what parts are available.
> 
> I was also thinking I would add construction lines to each part group so it is easier to "snap" parts together with the move tool.
> 
> Thoughts?


Those sound like great ideas very practical as well! Glad that it worked! I am super excited, will be able to get a 300mm reservoir mounted by an upside down Fill Drain Square cap on a 3mm thick aluminum PSU Cover that I am going to make for my case that leads to a hidden pump marked up with those 3d drawings! Now I just need to find the right version of LED to light the reservoir up. lol


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Is it possible to mount the reservoir to a radiator at all? Or 120mm fan?


Something like this?



That's a http://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-UNI-Pump-Holder-120mm/dp/B00LYPXJP8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449611748&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=EK-UNI+PUMPMOUNT

With the Monsoon MMRS "Grasshopper" mount - http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-12mm-stand-alone-pump-mount-matte-black.html

I've only got the longer of the two MMRS spreader bar screwed to the mount and it's pretty solid, but I plan to cut out a "tab" of 3mm aluminum to screw the two together (at the smaller spreader bar) just to be sure.

I believe it could support the weight of a res, though depending on the length, I'd want at least a second point of contact for an MMRS mount on the other end of the res.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Something like this?
> 
> 
> 
> That's a http://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-UNI-Pump-Holder-120mm/dp/B00LYPXJP8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449611748&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=EK-UNI+PUMPMOUNT
> 
> With the Monsoon MMRS "Grasshopper" mount - http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-12mm-stand-alone-pump-mount-matte-black.html
> 
> I've only got the longer of the two MMRS spreader bar screwed to the mount and it's pretty solid, but I plan to cut out a "tab" of 3mm aluminum to screw the two together (at the smaller spreader bar) just to be sure.
> 
> I believe it could support the weight of a res, though depending on the length, I'd want at least a second point of contact for an MMRS mount on the other end of the res.


It should be perfectly fine, wouldn't want to use that with a pump/res combo though. Pump would make an awful racket, but with a res, the tubing itself would also help support it, so shouldn't have any problems.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> It should be perfectly fine, wouldn't want to use that with a pump/res combo though. Pump would make an awful racket, but with a res, the tubing itself would also help support it, so shouldn't have any problems.


Ya I haven't done my sound testing with it yet, but if the SAP is too noisy I was going to add some padding to the points of contact on the Grasshopper and the fan mount. (I've been using left over rad gasket foam for vibration dampening in similar situations as it's thick enough to do the job of decoupling but thin enough to not require longer bolt/screws.)


----------



## ruffhi

Just got my first delivery of Monsoon stuff (econ fittings, all the colors available for hardline). I'll try and post some pics







.


----------



## BoxGods

I want a cool box to open dang it!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ya I haven't done my sound testing with it yet, but if the SAP is too noisy I was going to add some padding to the points of contact on the Grasshopper and the fan mount. (I've been using left over rad gasket foam for vibration dampening in similar situations as it's thick enough to do the job of decoupling but thin enough to not require longer bolt/screws.)


Do you remember how much that bracket was by any chance? I ask because I am wondering if people would be interested in a more substantial machined aluminum radiator pump mount. Something a bit sexier.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ya I haven't done my sound testing with it yet, but if the SAP is too noisy I was going to add some padding to the points of contact on the Grasshopper and the fan mount. (I've been using left over rad gasket foam for vibration dampening in similar situations as it's thick enough to do the job of decoupling but thin enough to not require longer bolt/screws.)
> 
> 
> 
> Do you remember how much that bracket was by any chance? I ask because I am wondering if people would be interested in a more substantial machined aluminum radiator pump mount. Something a bit sexier.
Click to expand...

YES!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ya I haven't done my sound testing with it yet, but if the SAP is too noisy I was going to add some padding to the points of contact on the Grasshopper and the fan mount. (I've been using left over rad gasket foam for vibration dampening in similar situations as it's thick enough to do the job of decoupling but thin enough to not require longer bolt/screws.)
> 
> 
> 
> Do you remember how much that bracket was by any chance? I ask because I am wondering if people would be interested in a more substantial machined aluminum radiator pump mount. Something a bit sexier.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> YES!!
Click to expand...

Agreed!







:

I think that bracket right there is about $12 +/-

~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

Well I paid about $35 w/free shipping for the fan mount. I'm not entirely sure I'm the "typical market" on pricing though, I tend to see something I want to do X and pay whatever it takes to accomplish X...

If Monsoon made one specifically for the MMRS coupler mount options (regular mounts and grasshopper) I would definitely buy it


----------



## thedoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Something like this?
> 
> 
> 
> That's a http://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-UNI-Pump-Holder-120mm/dp/B00LYPXJP8/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449611748&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=EK-UNI+PUMPMOUNT
> 
> With the Monsoon MMRS "Grasshopper" mount - http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-12mm-stand-alone-pump-mount-matte-black.html
> 
> I've only got the longer of the two MMRS spreader bar screwed to the mount and it's pretty solid, but I plan to cut out a "tab" of 3mm aluminum to screw the two together (at the smaller spreader bar) just to be sure.
> 
> I believe it could support the weight of a res, though depending on the length, I'd want at least a second point of contact for an MMRS mount on the other end of the res.


Awesome, I already happen to have the EK mount.


----------



## Mystriss

That's pretty much where I was as well heh

My rad is mounted directly to the hutch on my desk like this:



There really isn't much room below the rad to put the pump, plus the wood there is too thick for the grasshopper bolts. My only other real option for the pump was to set the SAP pump on the top of my desk, but I've got a drawing tablet that goes into that area plus the pump motor vibration gets into my recordings (I sing a lot) so I'd rather not do that. I had bought that fan pump mount, plus the EK D5 adapter ( http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-uni-holder-d5-v3.html ) long ago, and it just so happens to [mostly] fit the MMRS SAP.


----------



## ruffhi

Here are some pictures ... firstly ... I got singles of each type of Monsoon hardline tubing I could get at PPCS ...

from top to bottom

uv green

blue

uv red

uv blue

clear

red

white

black











I think the uv green, blue and uv red are my favorites. The red doesn't do anything for me







. The uv blue looks a little washed out ... it might look better under uv?

PPCS had the economic hardline compression fittings at 50% ... so I picked up a goodly number of them ... 18 white and 18 black ...


















These will go into my Liquorice Allsorts themed S5 build that is currently being planned in my head and in Sketchup.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just talked me into doubling my fitting order. Can never have too many hardline fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> PPCS had the economic hardline compression fittings at 50% ... so I picked up a goodly number of them ... 18 white and 18 black ...


What's going to be the biggest difference between the Economic and the Free Center? I see only the Economic are on sale. Is free center any more effective or just more difficult to install since you need to glue the collar on?


----------



## Ceadderman

Free Center would be more secure since it's rated to 35 + lbs of tension.

But economies are reasonably secure, I can pick up my Motherboard(I don't suggest this due to Murphy's law) at the CPU to MB block connection with zero slippage at the fittings. I did it once and once was enough to convince me of their sturdiness.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Free Center would be more secure since it's rated to 35 + lbs of tension.
> 
> But economies are reasonably secure, I can pick up my Motherboard(I don't suggest this due to Murphy's law) at the CPU to MB block connection with zero slippage at the fittings. I did it once and once was enough to convince me of their sturdiness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Aah ok thanks! Hmm, then I might go ahead and pick me up some of the economy ones since they are half off then. I am doing an Acrylic WC build at the moment. Well, in extensive planning since first wc venture but hey cheap parts I would need anyways!

Edit: Do you think 24 fittings would be enough for 2 rads and 2 blocks pump and res? I think that would only take 12 but if I got 24 leaves me to upgrade heh, maybe 18 would be better?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ya I haven't done my sound testing with it yet, but if the SAP is too noisy I was going to add some padding to the points of contact on the Grasshopper and the fan mount. (I've been using left over rad gasket foam for vibration dampening in similar situations as it's thick enough to do the job of decoupling but thin enough to not require longer bolt/screws.)
> 
> 
> 
> Do you remember how much that bracket was by any chance? I ask because I am wondering if people would be interested in a more substantial machined aluminum radiator pump mount. Something a bit sexier.
Click to expand...

I, for one, would be very interested!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Free Center would be more secure since it's rated to 35 + lbs of tension.
> 
> But economies are reasonably secure, I can pick up my Motherboard(I don't suggest this due to Murphy's law) at the CPU to MB block connection with zero slippage at the fittings. I did it once and once was enough to convince me of their sturdiness.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Aah ok thanks! Hmm, then I might go ahead and pick me up some of the economy ones since they are half off then. I am doing an Acrylic WC build at the moment. Well, in extensive planning since first wc venture but hey cheap parts I would need anyways!
> 
> Edit: Do you think 24 fittings would be enough for 2 rads and 2 blocks pump and res? I think that would only take 12 but if I got 24 leaves me to upgrade heh, maybe 18 would be better?
Click to expand...

That's more than ample.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

<3 Free Centers! The little ~peek~ of the tube is just great:



That's flex hose in the picture there, but I'll be doing white hardline with light port's and sound controlled RGB LED's on either side of the MB. ( Lit up like in this video except with hardline, which lights up way better, and with better timed sound activation as I've fixed the sensitivity and delay issues ~ 



 -- if one is curious the better timed video is in my build log here http://www.overclock.net/t/1441548/build-log-consummation-dual-htpc-water-cooled-audiophile-stereo-build/20#post_24236961 )

Now... if I can just stop breaking things (broke the motherboard lighting tray) I'll /eventually/ finish my build


----------



## RichardNixon

I just got my big box of Monsoon goodies, it's like Christmas early.

I have a question about the LED plugs. I ordered the green version and the bags have two lights in them, one sleeved green and one sleeved black. I plugged both in and they're both green LEDs. What's the difference between these two, or is it just the sleeve color?


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> I just got my big box of Monsoon goodies, it's like Christmas early.
> 
> I have a question about the LED plugs. I ordered the green version and the bags have two lights in them, one sleeved green and one sleeved black. I plugged both in and they're both green LEDs. What's the difference between these two, or is it just the sleeve color?


I believe that one of them is a wider angled light while the other one is a more narrow path. So you can put one in the reservoir to light it up or you can put the narrow one to light a tube up farther. I am not sure which is which though, can wait for Gene on that one. (I could also be totally wrong as well







)


----------



## RichardNixon

I was wondering about that. I tried pointing them both at something and I can't tell the difference. My system is still under construction so I can't hit water yet. I'll see what Gene has to say.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> I just got my big box of Monsoon goodies, it's like Christmas early.
> 
> I have a question about the LED plugs. I ordered the green version and the bags have two lights in them, one sleeved green and one sleeved black. I plugged both in and they're both green LEDs. What's the difference between these two, or is it just the sleeve color?


Projection angle. One is more of a spot light at about 30 degrees and one is more of a flood light at about 60 degrees. You can try both in your specific installation and see which you like better--no need to drain the loop as the LED's can be swapped in and out without removing the plug.


----------



## Mystriss

EDIT: Gene's so quick... isn't it great!?!









For the light ports yea?

They are a wider and narrower beam. If I recall correctly my initial tests (a good while back I'm afraid, and using white PrimoFlex hose) found that the narrower focused led lit up quite a bit longer "length" of hose, about 8" in my case as I recall, but was more subdued, basically it wasn't as "bright." The wider focused led gave a much "brighter" glow that faded out at around 3-4" (as I recall) from the light port. As a note, the "length" of travel as well as the "brightness" are heavily dependent on your tube, like the Monsoon hardline white tube is /way/ better are transmitting the light so it's much brighter and goes further. Also my tests had no water in the tubes.

You can swap out the wider and narrower LEDs while you've got water in the loop, so you could play with which one you like better


----------



## RichardNixon

Great, thanks guys. I don't suppose you know which is which? I have a black and a green wire (for green LEDs).


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Great, thanks guys. I don't suppose you know which is which? I have a black and a green wire (for green LEDs).


If you dump 12 volts into both of them it makes them brighter









(that's a joke by the way... please do NOT do that)

Edit: btw, Thanks Gene, I'll e-mail you the info after x-mas is done and over and things are calmed down for you a bit on that dual bay led fubar of mine.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Great, thanks guys. I don't suppose you know which is which? I have a black and a green wire (for green LEDs).


Memory of a fruit fly...but I think the write up at your reseller will say which is which somewhere down in the fine print sales bullets / description.


----------



## RichardNixon

Any hot tips for cutting the rigid tubing? Mine keeps coming out cut diagonally. I bought the cutting kit with the little miter box but it's not helping. I watched the video on cutting and it looks so simple, but I just can't make a straight cut for the life of me.

2nd question, my free center compression fittings come with two O-rings. I see that one goes between the barb and the outer spinning piece (the colored part). Where does the other ring go? Is it just a spare?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Any hot tips for cutting the rigid tubing? Mine keeps coming out cut diagonally. I bought the cutting kit with the little miter box but it's not helping. I watched the video on cutting and it looks so simple, but I just can't make a straight cut for the life of me.
> 
> 2nd question, my free center compression fittings come with two O-rings. I see that one goes between the barb and the outer spinning piece (the colored part). Where does the other ring go? Is it just a spare?


more cylindrical shaped ring should go on the the threaded end where you screw it into the component. Flat shapped 0-ring goes between fitting and acrylic tube (not 100% sure as I've never used that type of fitting, but that's kind of the standard approach.

For the cuts, use two gaskets onto the pipe leaving a small gap between them (maybe 1/4th an inch at most. as small as possible.) where you want to make your cut. then use a felt tip pen or thin marker and draw a circle on the pipe where you want the cut to be inbetween those two gaskets. . This way you can see to if you start to go off kilter while cutting. Also, if you have a couple C clamps, put a piece of cloth around the pipe and use the clamps to secure it so it doesn't move around on you while you are cutting. Don't put too much pressure on them though, you only need enough to keep it from wanting to wiggle around on you while cutting.


----------



## RichardNixon

I've discovered that the lock collars actually make contact with the barb, so it's okay if the tube is a bit angled at the end, which is great.

Unfortunately I've managed to ruin four lock collars so far and it'll take performance-pcs a week to get more out to me. I wish I had the foresight to order extras.


----------



## Tomiger

For cutting, I got the best results when I secured the miter box to the surface. I had a hard time getting straight cuts when I was just holding the miter box with my hand. I think the uneven cuts came from too much movement of the box/tubing.


----------



## RichardNixon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> For cutting, I got the best results when I secured the miter box to the surface. I had a hard time getting straight cuts when I was just holding the miter box with my hand. I think the uneven cuts came from too much movement of the box/tubing.


Oh yeah the miter box jumps around a lot and the blade keeps catching in the tube. How'd you secure your block down, just tape it?


----------



## BoxGods

Usually if the box is jumping around or you are not getting a straight cut it is one of two things.

First is the tube is not snug in the miter box. I like to wrap a few wraps of blue painters tape around the tube so it is snug in the channel. The tape also helps keep the cut edge clean.

The second is trying to cut too fast and pushing the saw into the material too hard. That old "saw" about letting the blade do the work is true--don't force it and don't try to go too fast. This has a physical component so it is a learned skill--go slower at first till you get the hang of it.

Another tip if you end up with a very slight angle on the end of the tube is a sanding block with 400 or finer wet and dry paper on a sanding block and again slowly sand the end true. I am a perfectionist so I sand all of my cuts anyway--even if they are perfectly flat.

The sanding block is a requirement--don't try to "free sand" it or you will just make it worse.


----------



## Malum

If you are using PETG tubing you can buy a hose cutter with a razor blade shaped like a V on the cutting edge(not just a flat edge) and then you don't have to "saw" the tubing at all..

I did this with my build (Monsoon PETG clear) and it worked perfectly. However this method doesn't work with PMMA tubing only the PETG ones...


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Oh yeah the miter box jumps around a lot and the blade keeps catching in the tube. How'd you secure your block down, just tape it?


I ended up super glueing some of the brackets that came with the mandrel kit to the side of the box and then screwing them into my surface.

Didn't last too long though haha, the brackets eventually came off from the box. So I ended up doing what Gene said and made sure the tube was wrapped enough to be really snug in the box and sawed slowly. But having the box secured did help me for sure, though it may not be necessary for people with skill/patience.

Also, as Gene said, sanding is key.


----------



## RichardNixon

I ended up finding a better work surface, holding the box steady with my hand, and using a low grit sandpaper to smooth things out. Everything ended up working out and I'm up to leak testing now. It looks like only one coupling is leaking, but I can't figure out why. I've tried changing the O ring with another, both are clean, and I don't know what's wrong. The leak is a slow drip from a free center compressing against a piece of tubing. There really isn't much to look at besides the o ring, so I'm at a loss. The lock collar is glued in place as far as it can go up the tube, so I'm not sure what to check.


----------



## RichardNixon

I found the leak problem. I had to add a bit of glue on the inside seal of the lock collar and it's no longer dripping.

Now I think my problem is my pump. The water won't go all the way through the loop (it stops at the peak of the loop at the top of my case) but oddly if I open up one of my T connectors by taking a plug off, it'll flow all the way through, but at the cost of also flowing out the top. I think maybe my PWM pump isn't pumping at maximum (it's silent right now) but I'm afraid to power the motherboard in case of leaks.

Does anyone know if it's possible to force a PWM pump (EK d5 vario) to run at full speed without a powered mobo?


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> I found the leak problem. I had to add a bit of glue on the inside seal of the lock collar and it's no longer dripping.
> 
> Now I think my problem is my pump. The water won't go all the way through the loop (it stops at the peak of the loop at the top of my case) but oddly if I open up one of my T connectors by taking a plug off, it'll flow all the way through, but at the cost of also flowing out the top. I think maybe my PWM pump isn't pumping at maximum (it's silent right now) but I'm afraid to power the motherboard in case of leaks.
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible to force a PWM pump (EK d5 vario) to run at full speed without a powered mobo?


It only runs at 60% speed whenever using it without bios work.

You should have the molex plugged into the PSU and the PWM in the motherboard header... unplug the PWM header and see if that fixes the speed problem. Should run at 100% after that.


----------



## RichardNixon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> It only runs at 60% speed whenever using it without bios work.
> 
> You should have the molex plugged into the PSU and the PWM in the motherboard header... unplug the PWM header and see if that fixes the speed problem. Should run at 100% after that.


I'm running without the pwn connector plugged in, just the molex. Maybe it is running at 100%, in which case I'm screwed since the water won't go past the cpu block. I still don't understand why the water will flow if I open the loop a bit. Maybe something to do with pressure?


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> I'm running without the pwn connector plugged in, just the molex. Maybe it is running at 100%, in which case I'm screwed since the water won't go past the cpu block. I still don't understand why the water will flow if I open the loop a bit. Maybe something to do with pressure?


Your pump molex should have 2 wires missing on it. The farthest from the Red wire is the 5V circuit, if you run a wire from the green PWM 4 pin header into that farthest slot it tells the pump to run at 5v, aka full speed.
Here is what I am referring to:


Spoiler: Explanation




Credit to this thread that I came across last week doing research and setting up first WC loop.


Happened to save that in a book mark list that I am creating for future troubleshooting references lol.


----------



## RichardNixon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Your pump molex should have 2 wires missing on it. The farthest from the Red wire is the 5V circuit, if you run a wire from the green PWM 4 pin header into that farthest slot it tells the pump to run at 5v, aka full speed.
> Here is what I am referring to:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Explanation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Credit to this thread that I came across last week doing research and setting up first WC loop.
> 
> 
> Happened to save that in a book mark list that I am creating for future troubleshooting references lol.


You, my friend, are a genius. I've been hunting for that exact fix and I haven't found squat. Kicked the pump into high gear and it's happily pushing through the whole loop. The bad news is that I found a new leak, but the loop is working!

I'm mashing the rep button just for you. You've saved me so much headache and waiting for a CPU to arrive.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> You, my friend, are a genius. I've been hunting for that exact fix and I haven't found squat. Kicked the pump into high gear and it's happily pushing through the whole loop. The bad news is that I found a new leak, but the loop is working!
> 
> I'm mashing the rep button just for you. You've saved me so much headache and waiting for a CPU to arrive.


No problem, Texans gotta stick together!







From what I read the pumps these days have become very resilient and should work for any modern water cooler. Glad it worked out though! Hopefully the leak is an easy one to fix. Be sure to post some pictures with all the Monsoon products when finished!


----------



## RichardNixon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> No problem, Texans gotta stick together!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what I read the pumps these days have become very resilient and should work for any modern water cooler. Glad it worked out though! Hopefully the leak is an easy one to fix. Be sure to post some pictures with all the Monsoon products when finished!


I've plugged the last leak (yet another time I somehow forgot an O ring) and now it's just running to do an extended leak test. I'm afraid to let it go overnight but I figure I can do most of the day tomorrow. Overall I'm pretty happy with the design. I tried drawing everything crudely in SketchUP and I didn't have a good idea of how some parts would fit together in three dimensions, so my idea of a perfect 90* angled loop didn't pan out. I have a few oddly skewed or tilted tubes, but I can always try again later. I also somehow ended up using a lot fewer compression fittings than I expected (I have 8 leftover) so that could saved a few bucks.

Once I'm satisfied everything is working fine I'll throw up some pics. I'm afraid to delid myself so I'm waiting on Silicon Lottery to delid my CPU and mail it back, then I'll actually be able to close everything up and call it a day.


----------



## RichardNixon

The description for compression fittings say the base is made of antimicrobial silver. Does this eliminate the need for a kill coil?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> The description for compression fittings say the base is made of antimicrobial silver. Does this eliminate the need for a kill coil?


Yes. The nice thing about using antimicrobial silver barbs/bases on the fittings is that the antimicrobial properties tend to scale with the size of your loop. If you want to add a little extra you can use silver bullet plugs.

The outer surfaces of the barbs/bases are coated with a marine grade non conductive UV cure epoxy. Only the internal water passages are exposed antimicrobial silver. Those will eventually tarnish to a dark gray / charcoal color so don't panic as that is just the silver doing its thing.

Also you obviously want to use good quality distilled water. Some homes have water softeners which add a little salt to your tap water and this is bad for your loop.


----------



## RichardNixon

Good to hear, Box, thanks.

Do you know when performance-pcs will get restocked on the green light plugs? I have tape covering a few of the openings right now.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Good to hear, Box, thanks.
> 
> Do you know when performance-pcs will get restocked on the green light plugs? I have tape covering a few of the openings right now.


We are filling an order for them right now to go out in about a week...not sure if it has green LED plugs. Resellers all seem very sensitive about us pointing out products they are showing as out of stock--like vendors are trying to "hard sell" them. To be fair if I had several thousand vendors I would likely feel the same way. You might want to shoot them an email.


----------



## ThaSpike

Where do I get these Modular Tube Reservoir Systems in Europe preferably Germany or the Netherlands?


----------



## Origondoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> Where do I get these Modular Tube Reservoir Systems in Europe preferably Germany or the Netherlands?


I expect to see them at CaseKing.de in Germany or HighFlow.nl in Netherlands. But they are not available / listed yet.

To my question on the availability on the market in Europe I got the answer from BoxGods that it should be December. So it should be available soon...


----------



## CrazyCreator

I hope too


----------



## BoxGods

I hate posting this as it seems like tempting fate--knock on wood--but I was waiting on sending out price lists to Europe until we had all the little "teething" issues sorted out and it *looks* like we have everything squared away now so re-sellers in the EU will get price lists first of the year.


----------



## BoxGods

Another update:

Production samples of the new mating kits, the vertical mount, and internally mounted CCFL's are on their way here for product pictures and videos. So those items will also be available in January.

Next up I am going to start tinkering with a radiator / fan type mount. Anything else you guys might be interested in...let me know =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Another update:
> 
> Production samples of the new mating kits, the vertical mount, and internally mounted CCFL's are on their way here for product pictures and videos. So those items will also be available in January.
> 
> Next up I am going to start tinkering with a radiator / fan type mount. Anything else you guys might be interested in...let me know =)


Internal CCFLs' would be awesome so long as the tubing used will not be brittle. I have a competitor Res and the CCFL tube is pretty brittle. Still it is a heckuva anti cyclone device.









~Ceadder


----------



## RichardNixon

Any news on a ccfl inverter?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Internal CCFLs' would be awesome so long as the tubing used will not be brittle. I have a competitor Res and the CCFL tube is pretty brittle. Still it is a heckuva anti cyclone device.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Brittle...The tube is acrylic so it SHOULD be OK. It is also inserted fairly far into the plug body.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Any news on a ccfl inverter?


Made some progress. Looks like there will be a two bulb and a 4 bulb version. The case/s will be extruded aluminum and available in all 10 of our Monsoon color finishes.

There will be a plug that allows you to add a wire that plugs into a rocker type switch also.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Internal CCFLs' would be awesome so long as the tubing used will not be brittle. I have a competitor Res and the CCFL tube is pretty brittle. Still it is a heckuva anti cyclone device.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brittle...The tube is acrylic so it SHOULD be OK. It is also inserted fairly far into the plug body.
Click to expand...

Nice. This one here is plastic iirc. Gives me more incentive to go with the MMRS.







What's the time frame we're loomking at?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> Any news on a ccfl inverter?
> 
> 
> 
> Made some progress. Looks like there will be a two bulb and a 4 bulb version. The case/s will be extruded aluminum and available in all 10 of our Monsoon color finishes.
> 
> There will be a plug that allows you to add a wire that plugs into a rocker type switch also.
Click to expand...









Cannot wait to see these come available.









Although there is a thought that I will PM you about later today.









~Ceadder


----------



## RichardNixon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Made some progress. Looks like there will be a two bulb and a 4 bulb version. The case/s will be extruded aluminum and available in all 10 of our Monsoon color finishes.
> 
> There will be a plug that allows you to add a wire that plugs into a rocker type switch also.


That sounds great! Any rough idea of what the cost would be? If the aluminum case is costly, it might be cool to have a bare-circuit version for those of us who are routing cables somewhere out of sight.

If you need to beta test the module, I'm still looking for a premade inverter.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RichardNixon*
> 
> That sounds great! Any rough idea of what the cost would be? If the aluminum case is costly, it might be cool to have a bare-circuit version for those of us who are routing cables somewhere out of sight.
> 
> If you need to beta test the module, I'm still looking for a premade inverter.


These have very high voltage...no way I would risk sending them out as bare boards...somebodies kid would get hurt. They will not be TOO expensive as the aluminum cases will be extruded.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Internal CCFLs' would be awesome so long as the tubing used will not be brittle. I have a competitor Res and the CCFL tube is pretty brittle. Still it is a heckuva anti cyclone device.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Probably be a little longer now because you have me worrying about using acrylic tube. I may switch everything over to PETG. The LAST thing we want is one of the bulbs getting wet because of a crack in the tube.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Internal CCFLs' would be awesome so long as the tubing used will not be brittle. I have a competitor Res and the CCFL tube is pretty brittle. Still it is a heckuva anti cyclone device.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably be a little longer now because you have me worrying about using acrylic tube. I may switch everything over to PETG. The LAST thing we want is one of the bulbs getting wet because of a crack in the tube.
Click to expand...

PM'ed.









~Ceadder


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Probably be a little longer now because you have me worrying about using acrylic tube. I may switch everything over to PETG. The LAST thing we want is one of the bulbs getting wet because of a crack in the tube.


I believe it would be a very smart idea to use PETG tubing over the PMMA(arcrylic), since the PETG tubes are much more forgiving, it just doesn't crack like the PMMA can do if there is any presure upon it....

PS I'm looking forward to see how the wil look and if I somehow could use them in my build....

P.Ps I love the hole mmrs series you've done and only wish they were awaible a year ago when I build my first WC computer, I did however bought your lightport fittings and red/blue chaingun fittings as well as your PETG tubings and all your kits for easy bending heatgun ect...


----------



## DNMock

The
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Probably be a little longer now because you have me worrying about using acrylic tube. I may switch everything over to PETG. The LAST thing we want is one of the bulbs getting wet because of a crack in the tube.




Problem solved!

On a serious note though there is always the sapphire glass option if you want to be 100% sure it won't crack.

Something like this
https://rayotek.com/sapphire_tubes.htm

Would probably greatly increase the cost though.


----------



## Mystriss

uhm... I wouldn't at all recommend that flex seal stuff, it doesn't seem to work so well. We had tried to patch a leaky spot on our gutters and it was an absolute waste of time; had to get out the ladder a second time to silicone it up after the very first rain (a week + later, so it wasn't a cure issue.) We'd also tried to patch a little leak in our hose bib in the basement with it and that didn't hold either (a wet application there but it didn't do /anything/ to stop the drip at all, we even blobbed it like they show in the infomercial to no avail.) ~cough~ We ended up throwing the stuff away because Plasti-Dip does basically the same thing FlexSeal does but it's far better quality and texture heh

Also, ya know if the case's for CCFL inverters weren't that silly blue plastic looking junk I wouldn't have to use 6' of extension cables on the bulbs I want to use for accent lighting behind my g-tars and violin... Does want smexy Monsoon casing!! Now I have to decide what color would look best on my yellow wall paint


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> uhm... I wouldn't at all recommend that flex seal stuff, it doesn't seem to work so well. We had tried to patch a leaky spot on our gutters and it was an absolute waste of time; had to get out the ladder a second time to silicone it up after the very first rain (a week + later, so it wasn't a cure issue.) We'd also tried to patch a little leak in our hose bib in the basement with it and that didn't hold either (a wet application there but it didn't do /anything/ to stop the drip at all, we even blobbed it like they show in the infomercial to no avail.) ~cough~ We ended up throwing the stuff away because Plasti-Dip does basically the same thing FlexSeal does but it's far better quality and texture heh
> 
> Also, ya know if the case's for CCFL inverters weren't that silly blue plastic looking junk I wouldn't have to use 6' of extension cables on the bulbs I want to use for accent lighting behind my g-tars and violin... Does want smexy Monsoon casing!! Now I have to decide what color would look best on my yellow wall paint


I thought everyone knew it was trash from the start haha. Only know of 3 methods to fix a leak. Silicone Caulk, Rubber sleeve with some good clamps, and JBWeld. Outside of that you either need some high dollar equipment or just get a new one.


----------



## ThaSpike

Will Aqua computers D5 with the Aquabus and other connectors on the back of the unit fit in the Pumphousing of the modular system ?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> Will Aqua computers D5 with the Aquabus and other connectors on the back of the unit fit in the Pumphousing of the modular system ?


It'll fit the collar portion. Doubtful the end piece will go on as that piece would bend those pins at the bottom.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Mystriss sent me pictures of her Aqua Computers D5 installed. The mounting tube does fit just fine but the decorative end cap sticks out about 3mm. I can make the motor tubes 3mm longer but it takes a fairly long time for inventory at every re-seller to sell through...so not sure how to make the transition over to a slightly longer part.

I might just make a special end cap for that pump that is sold separately. Or maybe an extension ring...


----------



## ruffhi

I've been stocking up on different color items for my future build and realized that I purchased Acrylic tubes instead of PETG ... even though I had see everyone talking about starting your bending adventures by using PETG. Guess I will be starting in the deep end.

As they say in almost every Adam Sandler movie ... _



_.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Mystriss sent me pictures of her Aqua Computers D5 installed. The mounting tube does fit just fine but the decorative end cap sticks out about 3mm. I can make the motor tubes 3mm longer but it takes a fairly long time for inventory at every re-seller to sell through...so not sure how to make the transition over to a slightly longer part.
> 
> I might just make a special end cap for that pump that is sold separately. Or maybe an extension ring...


I'll be happy with any solution you come up with.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I can make the motor tubes 3mm longer but it takes a fairly long time for inventory at every re-seller to sell through...so not sure how to make the transition over to a slightly longer part.
> 
> I might just make a special end cap for that pump that is sold separately. Or maybe an extension ring...


Of course ... This is a good idea .... I have the same Pump and the same "Problem"


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Mystriss sent me pictures of her Aqua Computers D5 installed. The mounting tube does fit just fine but the decorative end cap sticks out about 3mm. I can make the motor tubes 3mm longer but it takes a fairly long time for inventory at every re-seller to sell through...so not sure how to make the transition over to a slightly longer part.
> 
> I might just make a special end cap for that pump that is sold separately. Or maybe an extension ring...


Oh! Ya know, I meant to discuss this in PM's after you'd mentioned that, but it totally slipped my mind with all the holiday hoopla and everything. I really see no reason to have a whole new cover for the AQ pump fabricated, and I'm not entirely sure an extension ring for the pump cover is the best solution here...

The problem with both those ideas is going to be getting the extension length right... The connections on the back of the AquaComputer D5 are 3 & 4pin fan connectors, a 5pin USB connector, and there is also a 2pin connection for a temperature sensor. The 2-pin and 5pin connector's are a bit longer than the 3/4pin fan connectors (which in themselves are not exactly standardized lengths,) so if you want that temp sensor or USB connection plugged in you'll need an extra mm or so vs not having it plugged in... (Real life example, on the dual pump horizontal MMRS I want to build I would only need the 2pin temp sensor plugged in on /one/ of the pumps and I won't need the USB 5pin on either...)

Just extending the side walls on the back cover plate like 4-5mm would let us consumers adjust for all those connector length inconsistencies as needed. Plus, I really think this first pic (other than the blurry photo) is completely acceptable and looks like it was designed to be that way.

 *VS* 

*What do you think ThaSpike?*

(As a note, the first pic is the usb & aquabus pump w/slightly cut down connector plugs, and in the second pic is a Swiftech D5, minus the top, of course)
 and 

I've got a ton of extra black brushed aluminum sheet due to a shipper error so I'll see if I can fabricate a little ring, drill a couple holes for the existing holder pins on the cover plate, and see how it works. I can narrow down the size/depth of the cover plate walls as well - I've got a huge collection of random connectors as I make all my own cables heh


----------



## Eudisld15

I have a bit of porn for you all!

I had a different idea, which is why I went with the standalone pump but it didn't work out well. Welp, looks freaking great! LOVE THE MMRS!



Spoiler: Warning: Sexy ahead!


----------



## B NEGATIVE

You did a good job there Geno,I will have to mail you later on this.

I wouldnt worry excessively over using acrylic for the CCFLs,the FQ ones that broke regularly were all bent tubes and FQ have poor QC to begin with.....


----------



## Ceadderman

The acrylic ccfl tubes in the FQ is straight B. No bends. The Helix setups are solid tubing and don't break. Not sure where you got your information but it's wrong afaik.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Oh! Ya know, I meant to discuss this in PM's after you'd mentioned that, but it totally slipped my mind with all the holiday hoopla and everything. I really see no reason to have a whole new cover for the AQ pump fabricated, and I'm not entirely sure an extension ring for the pump cover is the best solution here...
> 
> The problem with both those ideas is going to be getting the extension length right... The connections on the back of the AquaComputer D5 are 3 & 4pin fan connectors, a 5pin USB connector, and there is also a 2pin connection for a temperature sensor. The 2-pin and 5pin connector's are a bit longer than the 3/4pin fan connectors (which in themselves are not exactly standardized lengths,) so if you want that temp sensor or USB connection plugged in you'll need an extra mm or so vs not having it plugged in... (Real life example, on the dual pump horizontal MMRS I want to build I would only need the 2pin temp sensor plugged in on /one/ of the pumps and I won't need the USB 5pin on either...)
> 
> Just extending the side walls on the back cover plate like 4-5mm would let us consumers adjust for all those connector length inconsistencies as needed. Plus, I really think this first pic (other than the blurry photo) is completely acceptable and looks like it was designed to be that way.
> 
> *VS*
> 
> *What do you think ThaSpike?*
> 
> (As a note, the first pic is the usb & aquabus pump w/slightly cut down connector plugs, and in the second pic is a Swiftech D5, minus the top, of course)
> and
> 
> I've got a ton of extra black brushed aluminum sheet due to a shipper error so I'll see if I can fabricate a little ring, drill a couple holes for the existing holder pins on the cover plate, and see how it works. I can narrow down the size/depth of the cover plate walls as well - I've got a huge collection of random connectors as I make all my own cables heh


The problem is existing parts and supply chain (read re-seller) issues. There are thousands of the existing mounting tubes installed, maybe a thousand or more in re-seller inventory waiting to be sold, and and I just made a LOT of the vertical mounts which are sized for the standard caps. Add to that that less than 5% of the pumps out there and being sold are the longer ones with the stuff on the back...and just "switching" to a 5mm longer mounting tube is not as easy as it sounds. Logistically it is a nightmare. If we make a special end cap that fits the odd ball pump and manufacture a hundred of them for resellers to have available...just a lot less hassle for everyone I think.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> You did a good job there Geno,I will have to mail you later on this.
> 
> I wouldnt worry excessively over using acrylic for the CCFLs,the FQ ones that broke regularly were all bent tubes and FQ have poor QC to begin with.....


I am going to make the change to PETG for the CCFL plug tubes just for a little extra safety margin. Imagine a light tube taking on water and hitting the power switch...I know I personally would be devastated if it was my build and as the guy who makes the decision on which materials to use...I see it as a preventable issue. Just the smarter / safer way to go so on balance a few weeks delay is not a huge deal.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eudisld15*
> 
> I have a bit of porn for you all!
> 
> I had a different idea, which is why I went with the standalone pump but it didn't work out well. Welp, looks freaking great! LOVE THE MMRS!
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Sexy ahead!


Man I lover it when you guys post pictures! I got some via email the other day that I hope the builder posts as well.

First rate work there =)


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The acrylic ccfl tubes in the FQ is straight B. No bends. The Helix setups are solid tubing and don't break. Not sure where you got your information but it's wrong afaik.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I stand corrected.

Still junk tho.....


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Oh! Ya know, I meant to discuss this in PM's after you'd mentioned that, but it totally slipped my mind with all the holiday hoopla and everything. I really see no reason to have a whole new cover for the AQ pump fabricated, and I'm not entirely sure an extension ring for the pump cover is the best solution here...
> 
> The problem with both those ideas is going to be getting the extension length right... The connections on the back of the AquaComputer D5 are 3 & 4pin fan connectors, a 5pin USB connector, and there is also a 2pin connection for a temperature sensor. The 2-pin and 5pin connector's are a bit longer than the 3/4pin fan connectors (which in themselves are not exactly standardized lengths,) so if you want that temp sensor or USB connection plugged in you'll need an extra mm or so vs not having it plugged in... (Real life example, on the dual pump horizontal MMRS I want to build I would only need the 2pin temp sensor plugged in on /one/ of the pumps and I won't need the USB 5pin on either...)
> 
> Just extending the side walls on the back cover plate like 4-5mm would let us consumers adjust for all those connector length inconsistencies as needed. Plus, I really think this first pic (other than the blurry photo) is completely acceptable and looks like it was designed to be that way.
> 
> *VS*
> 
> *What do you think ThaSpike?*
> 
> (As a note, the first pic is the usb & aquabus pump w/slightly cut down connector plugs, and in the second pic is a Swiftech D5, minus the top, of course)
> and
> 
> I've got a ton of extra black brushed aluminum sheet due to a shipper error so I'll see if I can fabricate a little ring, drill a couple holes for the existing holder pins on the cover plate, and see how it works. I can narrow down the size/depth of the cover plate walls as well - I've got a huge collection of random connectors as I make all my own cables heh


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The problem is existing parts and supply chain (read re-seller) issues. There are thousands of the existing mounting tubes installed, maybe a thousand or more in re-seller inventory waiting to be sold, and and I just made a LOT of the vertical mounts which are sized for the standard caps. Add to that that less than 5% of the pumps out there and being sold are the longer ones with the stuff on the back...and just "switching" to a 5mm longer mounting tube is not as easy as it sounds. Logistically it is a nightmare. If we make a special end cap that fits the odd ball pump and manufacture a hundred of them for resellers to have available...just a lot less hassle for everyone I think.


I haven't got any of my part yet, just checking to see if my plans are viable. I agree with BoxGods, a special end cap is the easiest solution here, as long as these end cap also make it to Europe (Germany).

If I may, I have some more questions:

Still not sure what color-scheme I'm gona use, already have an Asus Rampage V, how does this boards red compare the Monsoons fittings? Are there any pictures available combining a green reservoir and tubing with red fittings?
Are the monsoon fitting compatible with EK blocks and Hardware Labs SR2 radiators?
I love the horizontal reservoir with pump caps on both end (picture below), Mystriss also mentioned it, and would like to set mine up this way. I'm just a little confused about how it works. Is it just for look or could one really put two pumps in there. Is it for dual loops with some kind of membrane in the middle to separate both loops? Is it a redundancy feature, if one pump fails the other one keeps the loop going (since mine will be running 24/7 I wan't exactly that), but how does it work?


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> 
> Are the monsoon fitting compatible with EK blocks and Hardware Labs SR2 radiators?
> I love the horizontal reservoir with pump caps on both end (picture below), Mystriss also mentioned it, and would like to set mine up this way. I'm just a little confused about how it works. Is it just for look or could one really put two pumps in there. Is it for dual loops with some kind of membrane in the middle to separate both loops? Is it a redundancy feature, if one pump fails the other one keeps the loop going (since mine will be running 24/7 I wan't exactly that), but how does it work?


The fittings will definitely work with those blocks and radiator.

It isn't just for looks, it is very functional and you could definitely put 2 pumps on both ends and use a dual loop. You will have the return loop into the center for both loops, left pump for GPU and right pump for RAM->CPU->Res. But you have to have a very water cool compatible case for it to work well. Case i'm using I would have to go straight to the right to a radiator then back across the entire case to GPU. So viable for sure but not practical in my sense - wouldn't even look cool haha. Dual pumps is nice, if you just want the look could easily do that. Just plan the loop and like the look before you do it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The acrylic ccfl tubes in the FQ is straight B. No bends. The Helix setups are solid tubing and don't break. Not sure where you got your information but it's wrong afaik.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I stand corrected.
> 
> Still junk tho.....
Click to expand...

Meh, while not the best quality, they were still pretty solid and performed the task they were meant to. Unfortunately the internal CCFL tube is not 100% up to the task due to the brittle nature of the material. Mine is still able to hold coolant and the CCFL tube isn't cracked all to hades. Of course, I didn't care if it lit up at the time of purchase. That part was a novelty for me. And in my mind novelties run their course in short order. I get bored of them and that as well as not quite fitting the theme of my build has me selling it and updating to the MMRS system.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> I haven't got any of my part yet, just checking to see if my plans are viable. I agree with BoxGods, a special end cap is the easiest solution here, as long as these end cap also make it to Europe (Germany).
> 
> If I may, I have some more questions:
> 
> Still not sure what color-scheme I'm gona use, already have an Asus Rampage V, how does this boards red compare the Monsoons fittings? Are there any pictures available combining a green reservoir and tubing with red fittings?
> Are the monsoon fitting compatible with EK blocks and Hardware Labs SR2 radiators?
> I love the horizontal reservoir with pump caps on both end (picture below), Mystriss also mentioned it, and would like to set mine up this way. I'm just a little confused about how it works. Is it just for look or could one really put two pumps in there. Is it for dual loops with some kind of membrane in the middle to separate both loops? Is it a redundancy feature, if one pump fails the other one keeps the loop going (since mine will be running 24/7 I wan't exactly that), but how does it work?


1. Colors and preferences are of course very subjective. A few things to note. I made our red (and all of our colors) a bit on the lighter side because cases are a fairly dark environment. If the color looks perfect in your hand in a brightly lit room then it usually will look way to dark once installed into a case. Think of it as stage lighting and stage makeup. For those of you not into theater you can substitute "nudie bar" =)

IOW I tried to optimize the colors for what looks good actually installed.

As for mixing green with red...again that will be subjective. Depends on what you like. A bit too "Christmas" for my personal tastes. Others may disagree.

2. The fittings use industry standard G 1/4 threads for universal compatibility.

3. Dual pumps. You can run two d5's as shown provided the reservoir is mounted horizontally. It will not work mounted vertically as the top pump would likely starve and bleeding the loops would be a nightmare. There will be a mating kit available shortly that will allow you to split that reservoir into two discrete units if that is something you want to do.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> The fittings will definitely work with those blocks and radiator.
> 
> It isn't just for looks, it is very functional and you could definitely put 2 pumps on both ends and use a dual loop. You will have the return loop into the center for both loops, left pump for GPU and right pump for RAM->CPU->Res. But you have to have a very water cool compatible case for it to work well. Case i'm using I would have to go straight to the right to a radiator then back across the entire case to GPU. So viable for sure but not practical in my sense - wouldn't even look cool haha. Dual pumps is nice, if you just want the look could easily do that. Just plan the loop and like the look before you do it.


I'm building my system in a CM HAF Stacker, so more than enough room. When doing a dual loop setup this would indeed work but I'd prefer using a second pump as a redundancy, in case one of them fails. I thought this might be the perfect way to get it done, although I don't quiet see how.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 1. Colors and preferences are of course very subjective. A few things to note. I made our red (and all of our colors) a bit on the lighter side because cases are a fairly dark environment. If the color looks perfect in your hand in a brightly lit room then it usually will look way to dark once installed into a case. Think of it as stage lighting and stage makeup. For those of you not into theater you can substitute "nudie bar" =)
> 
> IOW I tried to optimize the colors for what looks good actually installed.
> 
> As for mixing green with red...again that will be subjective. Depends on what you like. A bit too "Christmas" for my personal tastes. Others may disagree.
> 
> 2. The fittings use industry standard G 1/4 threads for universal compatibility.
> 
> 3. Dual pumps. You can run two d5's as shown provided the reservoir is mounted horizontally. It will not work mounted vertically as the top pump would likely starve and bleeding the loops would be a nightmare. There will be a mating kit available shortly that will allow you to split that reservoir into two discrete units if that is something you want to do.


1. Of course colors are very subjective. The windows in my case are smoked so making the colors a little lighter is good logic.
I was just thinking what would look nice in my situation. My case is black (CM HAF Stacker, see below), the Asus Rampage V is partially red, so red was the obvious first choice. Only red would be boring and to much red, combining it with black would be better but still boring, so I'm searching for the right additional color. Don't know if green is the right choice, that's why I asked if you might happen to have a picture or render with both colors. Alternatively I could see myself going with red and silver.

2. That's good to know.

3. My plan is to horizontally mount the reservoir in the upper compartment of my case (CAM HAF Stacker, see below, upper part also has a window). Because my system is on 24/7 I'd like the water-pump to be redundant. That's why I though I could somehow build two redundant pumps on the same reservoir like this, although, like I already said above, I don't quite see how to get it working.


----------



## BoxGods

Normally for redundancy (aka series) you would use a pair of T's and connect the out ports of both pumps. Our Light port rotaries work well for this. If you're really serious about it I can draw it up for you to show how I would do it.

I think silver is the better choice for an accent color...though again each person may like something different so that is just one guys opinion.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The problem is existing parts and supply chain (read re-seller) issues. There are thousands of the existing mounting tubes installed, maybe a thousand or more in re-seller inventory waiting to be sold, and and I just made a LOT of the vertical mounts which are sized for the standard caps. Add to that that less than 5% of the pumps out there and being sold are the longer ones with the stuff on the back...and just "switching" to a 5mm longer mounting tube is not as easy as it sounds. Logistically it is a nightmare. If we make a special end cap that fits the odd ball pump and manufacture a hundred of them for resellers to have available...just a lot less hassle for everyone I think.


Ah I see, I tried to help make it easier! heh

Let me know if you want me to mail you my AquaComputer pump so you can fiddle with the sizing, I'm not going to be using it until you figure out what you want to do for it regardless - water cooling my rig is 100% about the looks and I want the MMRS look


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> I haven't got any of my part yet, just checking to see if my plans are viable. I agree with BoxGods, a special end cap is the easiest solution here, as long as these end cap also make it to Europe (Germany).
> 
> If I may, I have some more questions:
> 
> Still not sure what color-scheme I'm gona use, already have an Asus Rampage V, how does this boards red compare the Monsoons fittings? Are there any pictures available combining a green reservoir and tubing with red fittings?
> Are the monsoon fitting compatible with EK blocks and Hardware Labs SR2 radiators?
> I love the horizontal reservoir with pump caps on both end (picture below), Mystriss also mentioned it, and would like to set mine up this way. I'm just a little confused about how it works. Is it just for look or could one really put two pumps in there. Is it for dual loops with some kind of membrane in the middle to separate both loops? Is it a redundancy feature, if one pump fails the other one keeps the loop going (since mine will be running 24/7 I wan't exactly that), but how does it work?


Oooo it'll look /great/ in that top window for sure!

I'll be putting my dual pump MMRS across the front of a heavily modded HTPC SilverStone Chassis like so (that's a 400mm FrozenQ res in the pic):

 

I know exactly how I want mine to look and I'm staying with the black and white theme for the most part so I'm afraid I can't help much with Monsoon colors; I only have black and chrome fittings.

As I understand it though, if one has a long enough horizontal res, dual pumps like that wouldn't cause a vortex or anything, and that basically the pump location (so long as it's got a solid source of water, of course) is for the most part irrelevant - I've heard that it might be beneficial to have a second pump elsewhere in the line to keep up flow pressure, but with a low restriction setup like mine (not cooling the MB or drives or anything), the AQ D5 pumps can do like 4gpm [unrestricted] which should handle most setups without trouble, supposedly better than say a Swiftech D5. Before MMRS came out with the res splitter I'd planned to block off the pump coupler outlet port on one side of the res and just use it as a redundant emergency pump (so basically it'd only come on if my Aquaero controller got a low flow reading off the main pump.)

That said, it is my understanding that the dual pumps could both run at the same time - through the separate outlet ports - without trouble because it's a closed loop system, so basically it's the same equivalent as using a parallel dual pump dual loop top, or cooling dual GPU's in parallel rather than serial; a minor loss in pressure (estimate is like 10% pressure drop vs a serial pump setup), but should not be a problem for a good pump w/a low restrictive loop.

(As an extended note on that, my research indicates that the overall temp differences on a test serial vs parallel GPU loop are 10ths of a degree, so that is most likely a non issue, and the flow drop on parallel vs serial was more affected by the overall loop restriction and ones tube ID than the actual splitting out for parallel. The only real down side of the serial GPU loop being that the second GPU got warmer water of course, which could mean a slightly higher pump speed, and for a typical D5 that might cause some noise issues / extra wear and tear on pumps issues. However, as we have the AquaComputer pumps, especially with the Aquaero controller, we can fine tune the speed/noise any way we want, at anytime, and by any test factor we desire; temp, flow rate, loop temp, ambient temp, etc. - so, for example, while gaming we can have the pumps higher/louder vs while at idle browsing the web etc. - and we can even set the AQ controller to automatically turn up the pumps when we run x game as I recall) thus making the noise an almost non-issue for us regardless. So ultimately, for us AQ folks, dual pumps on a horizontal res are not going to suffer a pressure loss that is worth worrying about unless we are running a bunch of heavy restriction blocks - and by that, my research is saying like a single loop cooling the MB, 2+ GPUs, CPU, and RAM before it even starts to matter.)


----------



## BoxGods

What she said =)

Thank you that is a very generous offer but some decent pictures and a few dimensions should be more than enough. After the holidays I will get with you on this and machine one up so you can be the guinea pig and try it on your pump.


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> I haven't got any of my part yet, just checking to see if my plans are viable. I agree with BoxGods, a special end cap is the easiest solution here, as long as these end cap also make it to Europe (Germany).
> 
> If I may, I have some more questions:
> 
> Still not sure what color-scheme I'm gona use, already have an Asus Rampage V, how does this boards red compare the Monsoons fittings? Are there any pictures available combining a green reservoir and tubing with red fittings?
> Are the monsoon fitting compatible with EK blocks and Hardware Labs SR2 radiators?
> I love the horizontal reservoir with pump caps on both end (picture below), Mystriss also mentioned it, and would like to set mine up this way. I'm just a little confused about how it works. Is it just for look or could one really put two pumps in there. Is it for dual loops with some kind of membrane in the middle to separate both loops? Is it a redundancy feature, if one pump fails the other one keeps the loop going (since mine will be running 24/7 I wan't exactly that), but how does it work?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oooo it'll look /great/ in that top window for sure!
> 
> I'll be putting my dual pump MMRS across the front of a heavily modded HTPC SilverStone Chassis like so (that's a 400mm FrozenQ res in the pic):
> 
> 
> 
> I know exactly how I want mine to look and I'm staying with the black and white theme for the most part so I'm afraid I can't help much with Monsoon colors; I only have black and chrome fittings.
> 
> As I understand it though, if one has a long enough horizontal res, dual pumps like that wouldn't cause a vortex or anything, and that basically the pump location (so long as it's got a solid source of water, of course) is for the most part irrelevant - I've heard that it might be beneficial to have a second pump elsewhere in the line to keep up flow pressure, but with a low restriction setup like mine (not cooling the MB or drives or anything), the AQ D5 pumps can do like 4gpm [unrestricted] which should handle most setups without trouble, supposedly better than say a Swiftech D5. Before MMRS came out with the res splitter I'd planned to block off the pump coupler outlet port on one side of the res and just use it as a redundant emergency pump (so basically it'd only come on if my Aquaero controller got a low flow reading off the main pump.)
> 
> That said, it is my understanding that the dual pumps could both run at the same time - through the separate outlet ports - without trouble because it's a closed loop system, so basically it's the same equivalent as using a parallel dual pump dual loop top, or cooling dual GPU's in parallel rather than serial; a minor loss in pressure (estimate is like 10% pressure drop vs a serial pump setup), but should not be a problem for a good pump w/a low restrictive loop.
> 
> (As an extended note on that, my research indicates that the overall temp differences on a test serial vs parallel GPU loop are 10ths of a degree, so that is most likely a non issue, and the flow drop on parallel vs serial was more affected by the overall loop restriction and ones tube ID than the actual splitting out for parallel. The only real down side of the serial GPU loop being that the second GPU got warmer water of course, which could mean a slightly higher pump speed, and for a typical D5 that might cause some noise issues / extra wear and tear on pumps issues. However, as we have the AquaComputer pumps, especially with the Aquaero controller, we can fine tune the speed/noise any way we want, at anytime, and by any test factor we desire; temp, flow rate, loop temp, ambient temp, etc. - so, for example, while gaming we can have the pumps higher/louder vs while at idle browsing the web etc. - and we can even set the AQ controller to automatically turn up the pumps when we run x game as I recall) thus making the noise an almost non-issue for us regardless. So ultimately, for us AQ folks, dual pumps on a horizontal res are not going to suffer a pressure loss that is worth worrying about unless we are running a bunch of heavy restriction blocks - and by that, my research is saying like a single loop cooling the MB, 2+ GPUs, CPU, and RAM before it even starts to matter.)
Click to expand...

All D5's are created equal,no one brand is better than the other for anything other than speed control. In fact the D5 Strong with a 24v controller monsters any and all pumps short of an Iwaki.

Geno,you ever thought about making iwaki tops?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Oooo it'll look /great/ in that top window for sure!
> 
> I'll be putting my dual pump MMRS across the front of a heavily modded HTPC SilverStone Chassis like so (that's a 400mm FrozenQ res in the pic):
> 
> 
> 
> I know exactly how I want mine to look and I'm staying with the black and white theme for the most part so I'm afraid I can't help much with Monsoon colors; I only have black and chrome fittings.
> 
> As I understand it though, if one has a long enough horizontal res, dual pumps like that wouldn't cause a vortex or anything, and that basically the pump location (so long as it's got a solid source of water, of course) is for the most part irrelevant - I've heard that it might be beneficial to have a second pump elsewhere in the line to keep up flow pressure, but with a low restriction setup like mine (not cooling the MB or drives or anything), the AQ D5 pumps can do like 4gpm [unrestricted] which should handle most setups without trouble, supposedly better than say a Swiftech D5. Before MMRS came out with the res splitter I'd planned to block off the pump coupler outlet port on one side of the res and just use it as a redundant emergency pump (so basically it'd only come on if my Aquaero controller got a low flow reading off the main pump.)
> 
> That said, it is my understanding that the dual pumps could both run at the same time - through the separate outlet ports - without trouble because it's a closed loop system, so basically it's the same equivalent as using a parallel dual pump dual loop top, or cooling dual GPU's in parallel rather than serial; a minor loss in pressure (estimate is like 10% pressure drop vs a serial pump setup), but should not be a problem for a good pump w/a low restrictive loop.
> 
> (As an extended note on that, my research indicates that the overall temp differences on a test serial vs parallel GPU loop are 10ths of a degree, so that is most likely a non issue, and the flow drop on parallel vs serial was more affected by the overall loop restriction and ones tube ID than the actual splitting out for parallel. The only real down side of the serial GPU loop being that the second GPU got warmer water of course, which could mean a slightly higher pump speed, and for a typical D5 that might cause some noise issues / extra wear and tear on pumps issues. However, as we have the AquaComputer pumps, especially with the Aquaero controller, we can fine tune the speed/noise any way we want, at anytime, and by any test factor we desire; temp, flow rate, loop temp, ambient temp, etc. - so, for example, while gaming we can have the pumps higher/louder vs while at idle browsing the web etc. - and we can even set the AQ controller to automatically turn up the pumps when we run x game as I recall) thus making the noise an almost non-issue for us regardless. So ultimately, for us AQ folks, dual pumps on a horizontal res are not going to suffer a pressure loss that is worth worrying about unless we are running a bunch of heavy restriction blocks - and by that, my research is saying like a single loop cooling the MB, 2+ GPUs, CPU, and RAM before it even starts to matter.)


Horizontally mounted will not cause a vortex, that is correct. Also if memory serves, running pumps in serial actually generates more pressure than parallel (don't quote me on this though, Martins Liquid Labs ran tests on parallel vs serial pumps a while back and came to this result iirc). If pressure is your concern, a DDC pump will generate more head pressure than a D5 pump, but a D5 will generate higher flow rates.

Also all D5 and DDC pumps are made by the same company, Laing. The only difference is the pump head.

As a suggestion, horizontally mount the reservoir with one pump on one end and the other end of the reservoir with a fill/drain port. Then have the pump attached to the reservoir deliver coolant directly to a second, independent pump in serial. Then have the loop end with coolant going back into the reservoir as close to the fill/drain port as possible. In order to do this you will need to make your reservoir like this: Fill/Drain > 50mm res > 300mm res > 50mm res > pump so you can have your loop end in the coupling of the 50 and 300mm reservoirs closest to the fill/drain port.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Normally for redundancy (aka series) you would use a pair of T's and connect the out ports of both pumps. Our Light port rotaries work well for this. If you're really serious about it I can draw it up for you to show how I would do it.
> 
> I think silver is the better choice for an accent color...though again each person may like something different so that is just one guys opinion.


Confused. If I would mount them in series aka one behind the other why would I need T´s to connect the out ports of both pumps? If I would mount them parallel aka one on each side of a horizontal reservoir I would need a T fitting to "fuse" the two tubes, coming out of the out ports, together. Or am I mixing something up here? How would I use one of your light port rotaries to do this?

Thanks for the input on the colors, I will take it into consideration.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Oooo it'll look /great/ in that top window for sure!
> 
> I'll be putting my dual pump MMRS across the front of a heavily modded HTPC SilverStone Chassis like so (that's a 400mm FrozenQ res in the pic):
> 
> 
> 
> I know exactly how I want mine to look and I'm staying with the black and white theme for the most part so I'm afraid I can't help much with Monsoon colors; I only have black and chrome fittings.
> 
> As I understand it though, if one has a long enough horizontal res, dual pumps like that wouldn't cause a vortex or anything, and that basically the pump location (so long as it's got a solid source of water, of course) is for the most part irrelevant - I've heard that it might be beneficial to have a second pump elsewhere in the line to keep up flow pressure, but with a low restriction setup like mine (not cooling the MB or drives or anything), the AQ D5 pumps can do like 4gpm [unrestricted] which should handle most setups without trouble, supposedly better than say a Swiftech D5. Before MMRS came out with the res splitter I'd planned to block off the pump coupler outlet port on one side of the res and just use it as a redundant emergency pump (so basically it'd only come on if my Aquaero controller got a low flow reading off the main pump.)
> 
> That said, it is my understanding that the dual pumps could both run at the same time - through the separate outlet ports - without trouble because it's a closed loop system, so basically it's the same equivalent as using a parallel dual pump dual loop top, or cooling dual GPU's in parallel rather than serial; a minor loss in pressure (estimate is like 10% pressure drop vs a serial pump setup), but should not be a problem for a good pump w/a low restrictive loop.
> 
> (As an extended note on that, my research indicates that the overall temp differences on a test serial vs parallel GPU loop are 10ths of a degree, so that is most likely a non issue, and the flow drop on parallel vs serial was more affected by the overall loop restriction and ones tube ID than the actual splitting out for parallel. The only real down side of the serial GPU loop being that the second GPU got warmer water of course, which could mean a slightly higher pump speed, and for a typical D5 that might cause some noise issues / extra wear and tear on pumps issues. However, as we have the AquaComputer pumps, especially with the Aquaero controller, we can fine tune the speed/noise any way we want, at anytime, and by any test factor we desire; temp, flow rate, loop temp, ambient temp, etc. - so, for example, while gaming we can have the pumps higher/louder vs while at idle browsing the web etc. - and we can even set the AQ controller to automatically turn up the pumps when we run x game as I recall) thus making the noise an almost non-issue for us regardless. So ultimately, for us AQ folks, dual pumps on a horizontal res are not going to suffer a pressure loss that is worth worrying about unless we are running a bunch of heavy restriction blocks - and by that, my research is saying like a single loop cooling the MB, 2+ GPUs, CPU, and RAM before it even starts to matter.)


I will have two MB mono blocks (EK) and initially one GPU block (EK, will probably get a second one in the near future) in my loop. I was initially planning on mounting my reservoir vertically (with serial mounted pumps) until I found this thread with the horizontal reservoirs and then started changing my plans around. With the horizontally mounted reservoir and a pump on either side I thought I would use a T or Y fitting to combine the flow of both pump into a single loop. I wasn't concerned about creating a vortex in the reservoir I was more concerned that if one pump would fail the water would then just flow out through the working pump, through the T or Y fitting and then back into the reservoir through the out port of the failing pump, thereby completely ignoring the rest of the loop.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> As a suggestion, horizontally mount the reservoir with one pump on one end and the other end of the reservoir with a fill/drain port. Then have the pump attached to the reservoir deliver coolant directly to a second, independent pump in serial. Then have the loop end with coolant going back into the reservoir as close to the fill/drain port as possible. In order to do this you will need to make your reservoir like this: Fill/Drain > 50mm res > 300mm res > 50mm res > pump so you can have your loop end in the coupling of the 50 and 300mm reservoirs closest to the fill/drain port.


For me the main reason for mounting the reservoir horizontally is looks. If I would just put a pump end on one side of the reservoir it would no longer be symmetrical and lose it's cool factor. What would be the purpose of the loop your suggesting? Your reservoir would be over 40 cm wide, wouldn't fit in my situation, could make it a little shorter of course, I have a maximum width of about 30 cm.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> For me the main reason for mounting the reservoir horizontally is looks. If I would just put a pump end on one side of the reservoir it would no longer be symmetrical and lose it's cool factor. What would be the purpose of the loop your suggesting? Your reservoir would be over 40 cm wide, wouldn't fit in my situation, could make it a little shorter of course, I have a maximum width of about 30 cm.


My bad, I was basing those numbers on the 400mm reservoir you had in your photo.

This is why I was saying the fill drain port. With the spacer, you should have the symmetry you are looking for:




Now you have the symmetry and you have the functionality of a vertically mounted reservoir as you just have to roll the case forwards or backwards to fill or drain it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All D5's are created equal,no one brand is better than the other for anything other than speed control. In fact the D5 Strong with a 24v controller monsters any and all pumps short of an Iwaki.
> 
> Geno,you ever thought about making iwaki tops?


I have never actually even SEEN one...every time I have asked resellers about doing pump tops for them they say the same thing--not enough sales to be worth the trouble. I do want to tinker with one one of these days tho.


----------



## BoxGods

6 AM flight for Christmas with family. Looking forward to seeing Star Wars tomorrow night woot!

Back in the office Monday.

Merry Christmas everyone =)


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 6 AM flight for Christmas with family. Looking forward to seeing Star Wars tomorrow night woot!
> 
> Back in the office Monday.
> 
> Merry Christmas everyone =)


Have fun, and you should just skip out the whole of next week anyway. What's the point of coming back for what, 2 or 3 days that week? back to the shop Monday, Jan. 4 in my opinion


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *B NEGATIVE*
> 
> All D5's are created equal,no one brand is better than the other for anything other than speed control. In fact the D5 Strong with a 24v controller monsters any and all pumps short of an Iwaki.
> 
> Geno,you ever thought about making iwaki tops?
> 
> 
> 
> I have never actually even SEEN one...every time I have asked resellers about doing pump tops for them they say the same thing--*not enough sales to be worth the trouble.* I do want to tinker with one one of these days tho.
Click to expand...

At the price those pumps come with, I'm not surprised. Not when you can a standard or Vario D5 for a 3rd the cost.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> At the price those pumps come with, I'm not surprised. Not when you can a standard or Vario D5 for a 3rd the cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The new line of Iwaki pumps actually look like they could be extremely viable for water cooling.

http://www.iwaki-nordic.com/media/files/Brochure_2013/NRD.pdf

Especially that NRD-08 model. Don't know how much they are, google wasn't much of a help, but it could be a really nice pump.


----------



## rathar3

Wanted to post this pic of my Frosted reactor 150mm res glowing  think it looks Sweet.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Wanted to post this pic of my Frosted reactor 150mm res glowing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> think it looks Sweet.


That looks awesome man! Is that just a LED Plug light into a bottom port on there? I don't even see the CFL bulbs that you can attach onto the Res.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> That looks awesome man! Is that just a LED Plug light into a bottom port on there? I don't even see the CFL bulbs that you can attach onto the Res.


I used 2 primochill tower plugs and 2 5mm Led's. And thanks for the comments i just finished it today figured reactors glow from the inside : )


----------



## BoxGods

Wait till you see it with three internal CCFL's ...looks like a runaway reactor on its way to a melt down =)


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> My bad, I was basing those numbers on the 400mm reservoir you had in your photo.
> 
> This is why I was saying the fill drain port. With the spacer, you should have the symmetry you are looking for:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you have the symmetry and you have the functionality of a vertically mounted reservoir as you just have to roll the case forwards or backwards to fill or drain it.


Those photo's aren't mine, they we're posted by Mystriss.

What I want is seen at about 10:15 in that video. I figure it will be about 30 cm wide which fits the space I have in my upper compartment perfectly. What I'm still unsure about is how to adapt the rest of my planned loop. I had initially planned to mount a Aqua Computer reservoir vertically in the middle compartment of my system with a D5 pump directly below it and a second pump somewhere else in the single loop. Now I'm trying to figure out how to adapt my loop so I can use that particular horizontally mounted reservoir. I'd prefer keeping my single loop, and I want a second pump for redundancy. Till now nobody has really confirmed or denied my question if mounting them parallel at each end of that reservoir (joining the two out ports with some kind of T or Y fitting) will cause the water to circle in a little loop (res-pump-out port of failed pump-res ) if one of the pumps would fail, which I fear it will. It could be fixed by adding something that would prohibit the flow of coolant in the not desired direction, but that would probably restrict the loop plus I don't know if something like that even exists. An alternative would be to just leave one of the pumps end empty (if that's even possible) and stick with my original plan of putting a second pump somewhere else in the loop.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> My bad, I was basing those numbers on the 400mm reservoir you had in your photo.
> 
> This is why I was saying the fill drain port. With the spacer, you should have the symmetry you are looking for:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now you have the symmetry and you have the functionality of a vertically mounted reservoir as you just have to roll the case forwards or backwards to fill or drain it.
> 
> 
> 
> Those photo's aren't mine, they we're posted by Mystriss.
> 
> What I want is seen at about 10:15 in that video. I figure it will be about 30 cm wide which fits the space I have in my upper compartment perfectly. What I'm still unsure about is how to adapt the rest of my planned loop. I had initially planned to mount a Aqua Computer reservoir vertically in the middle compartment of my system with a D5 pump directly below it and a second pump somewhere else in the single loop. Now I'm trying to figure out how to adapt my loop so I can use that particular horizontally mounted reservoir. I'd prefer keeping my single loop, and I want a second pump for redundancy. Till now nobody has really confirmed or denied my question if mounting them parallel at each end of that reservoir (joining the two out ports with some kind of T or Y fitting) will cause the water to circle in a little loop (res-pump-out port of failed pump-res ) if one of the pumps would fail, which I fear it will. It could be fixed by adding something that would prohibit the flow of coolant in the not desired direction, but that would probably restrict the loop plus I don't know if something like that even exists. An alternative would be to just leave one of the pumps end empty (if that's even possible) and stick with my original plan of putting a second pump somewhere else in the loop.
Click to expand...

Here is a check valve you can use to prevent back flow if one pump fails, it also comes in black:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-check-valve-g1-4-ig-chrome.html

Put one on the out line of each pump before you T or Y the lines back together.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Here is a check valve you can use to prevent back flow if one pump fails, it also comes in black:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-check-valve-g1-4-ig-chrome.html
> 
> Put one on the out line of each pump before you T or Y the lines back together.


Do you need one of these if you have 2 pumps in series?


----------



## rathar3

When are they coming cause i cant wait. I want my res glowing like a core turning into a giant glowing gopher going for the center of the earth


----------



## B NEGATIVE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> At the price those pumps come with, I'm not surprised. Not when you can a standard or Vario D5 for a 3rd the cost.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new line of Iwaki pumps actually look like they could be extremely viable for water cooling.
> 
> http://www.iwaki-nordic.com/media/files/Brochure_2013/NRD.pdf
> 
> Especially that NRD-08 model. Don't know how much they are, google wasn't much of a help, but it could be a really nice pump.
Click to expand...

Agreed. It is a nice looking pump. Embarrasses a D5 Strong at 24v too..I suspect,like most Iwaki pumps,this is not a shy and retiring pump either,it will be audible.

I will have to buy one and find out.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Here is a check valve you can use to prevent back flow if one pump fails, it also comes in black:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-check-valve-g1-4-ig-chrome.html
> 
> Put one on the out line of each pump before you T or Y the lines back together.


Great, that's exactly what I need, hope I can find it in Europe, aquatuning.de has them. Do they cause much flow restriction?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Normally for redundancy (aka series) you would use a pair of T's and connect the out ports of both pumps. Our Light port rotaries work well for this. If you're really serious about it I can draw it up for you to show how I would do it.
> 
> I think silver is the better choice for an accent color...though again each person may like something different so that is just one guys opinion.


How would I use a Light port rotary as a T, like BoxGods mentions above?


----------



## Ceadderman

Me---->









"*Hi

The design is changing and so we will not be getting anymore of the Economies that are listed. So what is left on the site is it.

Best Regards,
Customer Service*"

WPITA... I have half of what I needed and now I gotta sell them to get the newer ones.









When are the newer ones launching Gino?









~Ceadder


----------



## SolarNova

Nice.

Think I may end up using 2 of this for my next build.

Though, I don't see a vertical mount that mounts from the bottom/underneath when the res is vertical.

@Monsoon, did u not think of that kind of mounting situation ?

How would u mount the vertical Res(with no pump) in the following Design.??


Spoiler: Design











[/URL]


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> Think I may end up using 2 of this for my next build.
> 
> Though, I don't see a vertical mount that mounts from the bottom/underneath when the res is vertical.
> 
> @Monsoon, did u not think of that kind of mounting situation ?
> 
> How would u mount the vertical Res(with no pump) in the following Design.??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


you could try the fill/drain port from the top or you could use the regular mounts that attach to the end caps.
what case is that you have?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Here is a check valve you can use to prevent back flow if one pump fails, it also comes in black:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-check-valve-g1-4-ig-chrome.html
> 
> Put one on the out line of each pump before you T or Y the lines back together.
> 
> 
> 
> Great, that's exactly what I need, hope I can find it in Europe, aquatuning.de has them. Do they cause much flow restriction?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what their restriction is, but if your going double D5's I don't think you have to worry too much about what minimal, if any, restriction they might cause.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> Think I may end up using 2 of this for my next build.
> 
> Though, I don't see a vertical mount that mounts from the bottom/underneath when the res is vertical.
> 
> @Monsoon, did u not think of that kind of mounting situation ?
> 
> How would u mount the vertical Res(with no pump) in the following Design.??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you could try the fill/drain port from the top or you could use the regular mounts that attach to the end caps.
> what case is that you have?
Click to expand...

BoxGods is working on a vertical stand type mount, but no ETA at this time.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Horizontally mounted will not cause a vortex, that is correct. Also if memory serves, running pumps in serial actually generates more pressure than parallel (don't quote me on this though, Martins Liquid Labs ran tests on parallel vs serial pumps a while back and came to this result iirc). If pressure is your concern, a DDC pump will generate more head pressure than a D5 pump, but a D5 will generate higher flow rates.
> 
> Also all D5 and DDC pumps are made by the same company, Laing. The only difference is the pump head.
> 
> As a suggestion, horizontally mount the reservoir with one pump on one end and the other end of the reservoir with a fill/drain port. Then have the pump attached to the reservoir deliver coolant directly to a second, independent pump in serial. Then have the loop end with coolant going back into the reservoir as close to the fill/drain port as possible. In order to do this you will need to make your reservoir like this: Fill/Drain > 50mm res > 300mm res > 50mm res > pump so you can have your loop end in the coupling of the 50 and 300mm reservoirs closest to the fill/drain port.


Hmmm if my memory is serving up the right info on it, D5's in serial was just about double the flow rate... So if you want/need higher flow rate then you should do dual in serial - and I agree, one would have to put the second pump elsewhere in the loop with an MMRS for serial.

The MMRS-TRP takes water directly from the res so I think there'd be a drop in that "double the flow rate" math if one just outlet the second pump into the res. Not a hydro-engineer, but as I understand the reason for the double flow rate is, in very simplistic terms, momentum, the first pump overcomes friction of your loop and kicks out the water at x and the second pump acts upon that existing momentum of the water to move it along faster. If you dump the first pump directly into the res, your going to lose some of the "borrowed momentum" I'd think, though I'm not entirely sure. Perhaps I could do some tests if I ever have time ~pipe dreams~ heh


----------



## Jakusonfire

Restriction does not double with flow rate, rather it increases with the aprox the square of flow. So doubling pump pressure with twin pumps in serial means 50% increase in flow rather than double the flow rate.

It's just like a car needs far more than double the power to double speed. More like quadruple the power is required.


----------



## Mystriss

Sorry ya lost me here. I never said restriction doubled with flow rate or anything that even construes that way... The restriction is inherent to the components in the loop, the pumps have to overcome that restriction.

I may recall wrong about the tests a guy had done a while back, sites gone now so we can't look at the results. As I recall though dual pumps in serial was double something... perhaps it was pressure rather than flow rate?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Sorry ya lost me here. I never said restriction doubled with flow rate or anything that even construes that way... The restriction is inherent to the components in the loop, the pumps have to overcome that restriction.
> 
> I may recall wrong about the tests a guy had done a while back, sites gone now so we can't look at the results. As I recall though dual pumps in serial was double something... perhaps it was pressure rather than flow rate?


Well for flow to double with dual pumps would require restriction to double with double the flow. So it really does construe to exactly that.
As I mentioned it is indeed pressure that doubles.


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> you could try the fill/drain port from the top or you could use the regular mounts that attach to the end caps.
> what case is that you have?


Case is just one of my custom design I've come up with that I might use for my next build which will be a chilled water loop, hence the custom case, it needs to be sealed (kinda like a subzero chill box, but this is a sub ambient chill box)

Anyway cant/don't want to use the fill port as the top and sides are all likely to be clear side windows.

I had a similar problem mounting my current res in my current system as I had no room to mount it to any of the sides of the case, for that though I got a friend to make me a carbon steal L bracket which worked well.

Cant do that again though because you would be able to see it very obviously in a case with 3 of the sides being clear windows. Was hoping there would be a more subtle mounting system developed by now.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Well for flow to double with dual pumps would require restriction to double with double the flow. So it really does construe to exactly that.
> As I mentioned it is indeed pressure that doubles.


Okay so dual pumps in serial doubles the pressure, and I can totally see myself remembering that wrong, but is not the whole point of increasing the loops pressure to overcome restriction and therefor maintain a higher flow rate?

While I do understand that in order to get a car to go twice as fast one has to put in more than double the power due to the fact that as a car moves faster it gains weight, I'm afraid I'm really not comprehending why "restriction" has to double if one wants to double the flow rate... It seems completely counter-intuitive to say that in order to double flow rate one has to double restriction; by that argument we would just add another block and increase our flow rate heh - it's actually the opposite is it not? Adding more blocks /slows/ down the flow rate /due/ to increased restriction. Am I misunderstanding what you mean by "restriction"?

Like... when a person has a stroke, it is due to a "restriction" of the flow of blood caused by clots in their veins, and, along the same line of thinking, when we hook a person up to a machine to pump their blood for them, we're not "adding" clots (aka restriction) to their blood flow, rather we're adding a secondary pump in order to /overcome/ the clots they already have... Aka, "resistance" is inherent to ones loop (blocks, rads, etc.,) we add a second pump to /overcome/ that inherent "restriction" and thus achieve our target flow rate.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Okay so dual pumps in serial doubles the pressure, and I can totally see myself remembering that wrong, but is not the whole point of increasing the loops pressure to overcome restriction and therefor maintain a higher flow rate?
> 
> While I do understand that in order to get a car to go twice as fast one has to put in more than double the power due to the fact that as a car moves faster it gains weight, I'm afraid I'm really not comprehending why "restriction" has to double if one wants to double the flow rate... It seems completely counter-intuitive to say that in order to double flow rate one has to double restriction; by that argument we would just add another block and increase our flow rate heh - it's actually the opposite is it not? Adding more blocks /slows/ down the flow rate /due/ to increased restriction. Am I misunderstanding what you mean by "restriction"?
> 
> Like... when a person has a stroke, it is due to a "restriction" of the flow of blood caused by clots in their veins, and, along the same line of thinking, when we hook a person up to a machine to pump their blood for them, we're not "adding" clots (aka restriction) to their blood flow, rather we're adding a secondary pump in order to /overcome/ the clots they already have... Aka, "resistance" is inherent to ones loop (blocks, rads, etc.,) we add a second pump to /overcome/ that inherent "restriction" and thus achieve our target flow rate.


No no, you are just misunderstanding or I'm not explaining clearly. What I'm saying is for flow rate to be able to double with dual pumps and double the pressure, then restriction would have to only double with double the flow rate.
If you double restriction then you need double the pressure. They are linked.
What actually happens is that restriction doubles by the time flow rate increases by about 50% so doubling pressure gives you that increase in flow.

We can see this in restriction testing like this example from Fast Fate.

As flow increases from 1gpm to 2gpm the restriction quadruples. So to push double the flow rate through this block takes 4 times the pump pressure.

It takes more and more energy to increase a cars speed because air resistance increases with the square of speed. It's nothing to do with weight. Air resistance and flow resistance are essentialy the same thing. Both are fluids in physics.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Case is just one of my custom design I've come up with that I might use for my next build which will be a chilled water loop, hence the custom case, it needs to be sealed (kinda like a subzero chill box, but this is a sub ambient chill box)
> 
> Anyway cant/don't want to use the fill port as the top and sides are all likely to be clear side windows.
> 
> I had a similar problem mounting my current res in my current system as I had no room to mount it to any of the sides of the case, for that though I got a friend to make me a carbon steal L bracket which worked well.
> 
> Cant do that again though because you would be able to see it very obviously in a case with 3 of the sides being clear windows. Was hoping there would be a more subtle mounting system developed by now.


If you are just wanting to secure the MMRS to the bottom of your case you can use an MMRS-FDP w/cap for that; you don't /have/ to drill a hole for external access, just put a stop plug in the FDP Base coupler and mount the cap itself directly to the inside bottom or your case. As long as you don't flip your case completely upside down or shake the case around a bunch, that should keep all but a really tall res in place just fine as the cap slides down into the FDP coupler quite a bit (was like ¼" if I recall the video right.) See 16:10 mark - 




If you had the space available you could use one of the newly released MMRS mating kit's (I believe it is #3) which splits the res into two res's, with one of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-m2-dual-bay-reservoir-to-tube-adapter.html to securely mount the res to the bottom OR top of your case. (The mating kit's separator would just create an empty res cavity between it and the mounting adapter part.) Though that adapter plate is fairly large so I don't think it'll fall under the category of "subtle" hahaha


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No no, you are just misunderstanding or I'm not explaining clearly. What I'm saying is for flow rate to be able to double with dual pumps and double the pressure, then restriction would have to only double with double the flow rate.
> If you double restriction then you need double the pressure. They are linked.
> What actually happens is that restriction doubles by the time flow rate increases by about 50% so doubling pressure gives you that increase in flow.
> 
> We can see this in restriction testing like this example from Fast Fate.
> 
> As flow increases from 1gpm to 2gpm the restriction quadruples. So to push double the flow rate through this block takes 4 times the pump pressure.
> 
> It takes more and more energy to increase a cars speed because air resistance increases with the square of speed. It's nothing to do with weight. Air resistance and flow resistance are essentialy the same thing. Both are fluids in physics.


Geek moment: On the last, while its "relative mass," weight absolutely does have to do with why it requires more energy to increase speed; its theory of relativity E=MC[2] stuff right? - http://physicsuneekacademy.blogspot.com/2015/08/the-faster-you-move-heavier-you-get.html and a more in-depth version https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass%E2%80%93energy_equivalence

On the other though, I think I've got ya now; basically the "restriction" increases because some of the second pumps power (aka head pressure) isn't converted directly into pressure, but is converted instead to resistance, thus causing the flow rate /not/ to double. Or in summary, a second pump doesn't double flow rate, but rather increases pressure which, while pressure does increase flow rate, it does not do so at an equal ratio?


----------



## Ceadderman

Relatively sure that the flowrate does not double with the addition of another pump to a single pump system. I've got a Dual DDC setup that I ran for a year at best and had both pumps controlled by my Sunbeam RheoSmart 3. Yes it did increase the flow but no it did not double the rate. I couldn't see much difference in my Reservoir which was mounted directly above the EK Dual DDC v2 setup with two DDC 1T pumps. After seeing that there was little difference in flow rate through 2 Blocks and one Radiator; I chose to keep the 2nd pump specifically for backup and shut it down for redundancy purposes.

I seriously doubt that even the reliable D5 pump could double the rate of flow when added to a serial setup. Well unless someone were to add a D5 Strong to a system that already had a Vario.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Costas

Adding another (same) pump in series will appoximately double the head pressure but flow rate will stay the same.


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> If you are just wanting to secure the MMRS to the bottom of your case you can use an MMRS-FDP w/cap for that; you don't /have/ to drill a hole for external access, just put a stop plug in the FDP Base coupler and mount the cap itself directly to the inside bottom or your case. As long as you don't flip your case completely upside down or shake the case around a bunch, that should keep all but a really tall res in place just fine as the cap slides down into the FDP coupler quite a bit (was like ¼" if I recall the video right.) See 16:10 mark -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you had the space available you could use one of the newly released MMRS mating kit's (I believe it is #3) which splits the res into two res's, with one of these http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-m2-dual-bay-reservoir-to-tube-adapter.html to securely mount the res to the bottom OR top of your case. (The mating kit's separator would just create an empty res cavity between it and the mounting adapter part.) Though that adapter plate is fairly large so I don't think it'll fall under the category of "subtle" hahaha


Appreciate the suggestions.

Unfortunately, the design of the case I have in mind would make the 1st suggestion look bad if mounted from the top (as the top is clear) and if mounted from the bottom would not allow the tube runs I want which come out from the bottom on the tube res, not the sides.

And the second idea is just to bulky, as well as requiring side ports.

From what I've been reading it does 'seem' like Monsoon will be releasing a vertical bottom base mount in Jan, so I think that would work fine.

*Merry Christmas*


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Geek moment: On the last, while its "relative mass," weight absolutely does have to do with why it requires more energy to increase speed; its theory of relativity E=MC[2] stuff right? - http://physicsuneekacademy.blogspot.com/2015/08/the-faster-you-move-heavier-you-get.html and a more in-depth version https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass%E2%80%93energy_equivalence
> 
> On the other though, I think I've got ya now; basically the "restriction" increases because some of the second pumps power (aka head pressure) isn't converted directly into pressure, but is converted instead to resistance, thus causing the flow rate /not/ to double. Or in summary, a second pump doesn't double flow rate, but rather increases pressure which, while pressure does increase flow rate, it does not do so at an equal ratio?


When we get into kilometres per second ranges of speed then yes, Einstein tells us that mass increases with speed. However mass only slows the rate of acceleration not the outright top speed so it's not the same thing. A car is far too slow to see any effect.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Adding another (same) pump in series will appoximately double the head pressure but flow rate will stay the same.


Pressure doubles exactly *if* flow rate stays the same but if the loop restriction is not changed then the increased pressure increases flow rate.
If one pump gives you 5PSI at 1GPM and 4.5psi at 1,5GPM then two will give you 10psi and 1gpm and 9psi at 1,5gpm.
A loops restriction does not change with the added pump it just takes say 5PSI to push 1GPM, 10PSI to push 1.5GPM and 20 PSI to push 2.0GPM so one pump gives you 1GPM and two gives just under 1.5GPM


----------



## Deedaz

How big do you have to make the hole for the drain port? I'm trying to figure out the best way of doing it and the placement.
thanks in advance


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> How big do you have to make the hole for the drain port? I'm trying to figure out the best way of doing it and the placement.
> thanks in advance


I believe that it is ~48mm wide, I couldn't find the mounting template online since it's new but Gene can verify that after holiday weekend i'm sure!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> How big do you have to make the hole for the drain port? I'm trying to figure out the best way of doing it and the placement.
> thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that it is ~48mm wide, I couldn't find the mounting template online since it's new but Gene can verify that after holiday weekend i'm sure!
Click to expand...

The bit to make the hole is 41mm wide I believe. Performance-PCs has them in stock and iirc they are 41mm side to side.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jiryama

3rd from the left on the top is the Fill Drain Port base. Looks like it is 43mm wide but 41mm tall.

When Gene returns we should see if he can post a picture of all of the mounting templates so they are in one good location.


----------



## Unnatural

Here's my template, plus the included bit. It says 44, but got it from the first bunch, don't know if it changed since then.


----------



## Deedaz

Oh that's much smaller than I was expecting. So it comes with the proper drill bit? That's really awesome and should make this a simple mod. Thanks guys!


----------



## Ceadderman

Guess idrc.









Good times!









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Me---->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "*Hi
> 
> The design is changing and so we will not be getting anymore of the Economies that are listed. So what is left on the site is it.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Customer Service*"
> 
> WPITA... I have half of what I needed and now I gotta sell them to get the newer ones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When are the newer ones launching Gino?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Not for a while as I still have a lot of these in stock. At least a few months unless they move out really fast.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> Think I may end up using 2 of this for my next build.
> 
> Though, I don't see a vertical mount that mounts from the bottom/underneath when the res is vertical.
> 
> @Monsoon, did u not think of that kind of mounting situation ?
> 
> How would u mount the vertical Res(with no pump) in the following Design.??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


The vertical mounts are done and will be shipping out early January.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Oh that's much smaller than I was expecting. So it comes with the proper drill bit? That's really awesome and should make this a simple mod. Thanks guys!


The template is included--the drill bit is NOT included. I couldn't find the 44mm wide bits anywhere so we had them made custom. We normally do include drill bits packaged with the parts when needed but because these are obviously bigger and more expensive than a typical M4 it did not make sense to package them with every part--some people won't use them or will have several fill drain port parts so why pay for drill bits they don't need.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Me---->
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> "*Hi
> 
> The design is changing and so we will not be getting anymore of the Economies that are listed. So what is left on the site is it.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Customer Service*"
> 
> WPITA... I have half of what I needed and now I gotta sell them to get the newer ones.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When are the newer ones launching Gino?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not for a while as I still have a lot of these in stock. At least a few months unless they move out really fast.
Click to expand...

PMed.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The template is included--the drill bit is NOT included. I couldn't find the 44mm wide bits anywhere so we had them made custom. We normally do include drill bits packaged with the parts when needed but because these are obviously bigger and more expensive than a typical M4 it did not make sense to package them with every part--some people won't use them or will have several fill drain port parts so why pay for drill bits they don't need.


Thanks for the clarification. I thought it seemed a bit expensive to put such a large bit in with that part. So i just need to find a 44mm bit, correct? That's not bad at all.


----------



## Ceadderman

Geno continues to impress me as a Business owner and representitive of his company. What very well could have resulted in another change to my build will result in a minor obstacle that was sidestepped to finishing it instead.









If you ever need a Rep out here Geno, I am your guy. Even at Volunteer scale.









~Ceadder


----------



## SolarNova

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The vertical mounts are done and will be shipping out early January.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Image!


Nice.

I must say I'm surprised that the mount is capable of holding a vertical tube res securely with only 2 screws and a narrow standoff (red bit).
Is there a limit on how tall the res can be for said mount before the weight of a filled res causes it to lean ?
I'm likely only going to be going up to 250mm tube size.

Cheers


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification. I thought it seemed a bit expensive to put such a large bit in with that part. So i just need to find a 44mm bit, correct? That's not bad at all.


I could not find any that large so we have them made and make them available to resellers who sell the MMRS parts--one stop shopping =)

Keep in mind that they work great on acrylic, wood, aluminum etc. cases...not so great on steel cases. If you use cutting oil and go slow so you don't over heat the blade you might get one hole in steel--no way you get more than one. Pre-drill a pilot hole for the center of the bit, (the spike point part) also if you are cutting into a steel case. It is a good idea for any material actually. Don't go bigger than M4 or M6 with the pilot hole.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Geno continues to impress me as a Business owner and representitive of his company. What very well could have resulted in another change to my build will result in a minor obstacle that was sidestepped to finishing it instead.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you ever need a Rep out here Geno, I am your guy. Even at Volunteer scale.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks for the kind words =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> I must say I'm surprised that the mount is capable of holding a vertical tube res securely with only 2 screws and a narrow standoff (red bit).
> Is there a limit on how tall the res can be for said mount before the weight of a filled res causes it to lean ?
> I'm likely only going to be going up to 250mm tube size.
> 
> Cheers


The vertical mount was originally created for use with the SAP pump--not really longer reservoirs--but the base (the black part) is bent from a single piece of 3mm thick stainless so it is pretty stout. Most of the loading is straight down and isn't too bad--there is only so much room in a typical case so it is hard to get TOO carried away with the reservoir length. Any tendency for taller reservoirs to tilt can usually be counter acted with the tube connecting to the reservoir also.

I personally would still use the FDP as a mount if at all possible...it just makes it so much easier to fill or drain the loop. Even if you don't want to use the external cap you can still use the holes to mount the reservoir. Use four for a vertical mount and all eight for a horizontal mount, (if you are not using the machined aluminum cap of course). Obviously don't forget to screw the plug in before you mount up the reservoir =)


----------



## Jiryama

Hey BoxGods, will you have a FDP unit that has 2 ports on it rather than just the single one? I know you only need 1 for it to be used as a drain port but I am not going to use it in that traditional way. So if it had 2 ports that would work better so I could actually make a drain port as well!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Hey BoxGods, will you have a FDP unit that has 2 ports on it rather than just the single one? I know you only need 1 for it to be used as a drain port but I am not going to use it in that traditional way. So if it had 2 ports that would work better so I could actually make a drain port as well!


Not really planning a two port version...not really a lot of demand for it--unless you have thought of something I haven't.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not really planning a two port version...not really a lot of demand for it--unless you have thought of something I haven't.


No not really, due to my case restrictions, I am build a PSU shroud cover and I am going to mount the FDP onto that and instead of using the port as a drain port actually going to use it to run a small tube into the hidden pump and start my loop. This is also how I am going to mount my reservoir (Obviously) rather than to the side of the case or to fans which will give it a free standing reservoir look. Plus being aligned just to the right of the ram spot when looking at it directly on will hide the power cables for the hdds and motherboard. I am just not a huge fan of T-Valves so having a second port to actually drain would have been nice but this is like a 1/1000000th situation.

Am waiting patiently for the CCFL's to go inside of the reservoir as well, that will come in all of your colors as well correct? (Orange?) Hopefully it will be compatible with the FDP as a main source of mounting on the bottom, not sure how you plan to implement the tubes into the reservoirs as in if they would need 1/4 ports on top and bottom or just top.


----------



## Mystriss

^^ Couldn't you use the new coupler mating kit to add a side port for your pump just above/below your FDP coupler? (Then use the FDP as usual)


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> ^^ Couldn't you use the new coupler mating kit to add a side port for your pump just above/below your FDP coupler? (Then use the FDP as usual)


Are you talking about the MMRS-BH Coupler for the acrylic tubes? I don't recall seeing a mating kit information put out there? I remember seeing Gene mention that a mating kit was in the works but I haven't seen any other information about it unless I missed it here on the forums? More of a visual person so didn't quite follow that without seeing a picture of the mating kit.


----------



## Mystriss

Yea it's supposed to be out in January I believe. The pics of the mating kits were posted a while back in the thread, but here is the one I'm talking about again:

 

And the joiner ring bit:



Lets you put two couplers next to each other so you should be able to put in a MMRS-BH coupler next to your FDP-BASE then you'll be good to go for your hidden pump's port


----------



## Mads1

I wanted one coupler that had both a in-out port rather than making two together, shame cause i really like the look of this res, EK new revo i dont like cause in my eyes looks to plastic, their old square one would of been ideal for my needs but thats EOL. And the rest im not keen on , i wanted a D5 combo but looks like il have to go DDC pump now.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> No not really, due to my case restrictions, I am build a PSU shroud cover and I am going to mount the FDP onto that and instead of using the port as a drain port actually going to use it to run a small tube into the hidden pump and start my loop. This is also how I am going to mount my reservoir (Obviously) rather than to the side of the case or to fans which will give it a free standing reservoir look. Plus being aligned just to the right of the ram spot when looking at it directly on will hide the power cables for the hdds and motherboard. I am just not a huge fan of T-Valves so having a second port to actually drain would have been nice but this is like a 1/1000000th situation.
> 
> Am waiting patiently for the CCFL's to go inside of the reservoir as well, that will come in all of your colors as well correct? (Orange?) Hopefully it will be compatible with the FDP as a main source of mounting on the bottom, not sure how you plan to implement the tubes into the reservoirs as in if they would need 1/4 ports on top and bottom or just top.


We make all ten of our color finishes available to resellers--getting them to carry the "less popular" colors like orange or purple is a different story. My feeling is that colors like Orange are less popular because they are less available. Kind of a chicken/egg thing I guess.

The CCFL plugs use G 1/4 threads and only require one port--the end is capped IOW.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Yea it's supposed to be out in January I believe. The pics of the mating kits were posted a while back in the thread, but here is the one I'm talking about again:
> 
> 
> 
> And the joiner ring bit:
> 
> 
> 
> Lets you put two couplers next to each other so you should be able to put in a MMRS-BH coupler next to your FDP-BASE then you'll be good to go for your hidden pump's port


It will also let you join the FDP-BASE to a coupler--really you can mate any of the molded parts together. These are all done and ready to go except for the longer threaded rod / set screws--still waiting on those to be machined. The mating kit also includes a ring that is solid for use if you want to seperate one reservoir into two compartments.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I wanted one coupler that had both a in-out port rather than making two together, shame cause i really like the look of this res, EK new revo i dont like cause in my eyes looks to plastic, their old square one would of been ideal for my needs but thats EOL. And the rest im not keen on , i wanted a D5 combo but looks like il have to go DDC pump now.


I don't think I fully understand your comment...you can use the ports on the coupler for either in or out in any combination you want.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I wanted one coupler that had both a in-out port rather than making two together, shame cause i really like the look of this res, EK new revo i dont like cause in my eyes looks to plastic, their old square one would of been ideal for my needs but thats EOL. And the rest im not keen on , i wanted a D5 combo but looks like il have to go DDC pump now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't think I fully understand your comment...you can use the ports on the coupler for either in or out in any combination you want.
Click to expand...

From what I read he wants a single port coupler? Or maybe it's a dual port for DDC?









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

I don't think that is it...maybe but if that was the case...why not just use a plug on the other port =)


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I don't think that is it...maybe but if that was the case...why not just use a plug on the other port =)


I want to run the D5 with a in and out port but only using one coupler two ports, the attachment you do for the D5 is for out only unless im missing something.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I want to run the D5 with a in and out port but only using one coupler two ports, the attachment you do for the D5 is for out only unless im missing something.


Ah, I think I see the miscommunication









The pump coupler's "in" port is fully internal, pump sucks water straight out of the res. The center hole in this pic is the inlet:



If you really need the in and out ports, and don't care about actually containing the pump in your res you can get a MMRS-SAP (Stand Alone Pump) It's got ports on the top and front side...


----------



## Mads1

I want a combo unit like the EK XRES X3.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I want a combo unit like the EK XRES X3.


You can't use one of the Ports in the X3. Which is why those come with a plug. I have one and the Inlet can only be Center or Side for mounting issues related to setup. If Gino were to do something similar you'd be in the same boat as all us Xtop owners.











The plug is under my son's hand.









Oh and as another reason there is no 3 port Pmp/Res top, how do you pull coolant through the pump twice in a single loop setup? Once fro the center and once from the exterior. Not gonna happen. It isn't feasible for the best performance of your D5.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Man what a cutie! Glad to see you are getting him started young =)

He looks very deep in thought...probably planning out his first cooling loop. That or trying to figure out WTH is going on in his diaper.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man what a cutie! Glad to see you are getting him started young =)
> 
> He looks very deep in thought...probably planning out his first cooling loop. That or trying to figure out WTH is going on in his diaper.


Thank you Geno. That shot was taken a couple months back. Avatar is from this Christmas. He was looking at the pump tach from my Vario. Wondering why on earth it wasn't part of the power structure cables. Next one I take will be the beginning of his very own water cooled Fisher Price computer complete with EK and Monsoon hardware.







heheh

~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Amazing the effect babies have on us, (or most of us). I think every world leader and politician that is participating in any sort of global conflict negotiations should be required to spend a few hours in the maternity viewing room of a local hospital. Hard to think about wars and greed and hatred when you are surrounded by all that potential.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Amazing the effect babies have on us, (or most of us). I think every world leader and politician that is participating in any sort of global conflict negotiations should be required to spend a few hours in the maternity viewing room of a local hospital. Hard to think about wars and greed and hatred when you are surrounded by all that potential.


I know huh. I never thought I would have a child. And now I can't imagine life without him. He's such a cutup.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

Send them to the puppy section of the pet store too! And if you really want to change their "life stance" - hospitals and vets. There's some real humanity up in there.

Also, those kid things get way more fun when they grow up. Mine are 30, 24, 22, 21, and 16 now. We had so much fun when they were all teens







It started with networked Civilization games, then we starting forming guilds on PvP MMO's together. I do miss those days. Still, the youngest is both a coder and a guild leader just like Mom! He just finished building his very first gaming computer; complete with mods. Geek mom is so proud!


----------



## BoxGods

With something like 4,000 hours in CIV, (Dam you Steam stat tracking) I can't comment on that particular time suck =)


----------



## Don Key Sho

hello! i purchased a Whole LOT of mmrs stuff!,and built me a cool little res.This stuff is great! no complaints went together easy and look great!
I made some mistakes tho,bought A 50mm mount thinking it came in a pair ... . whoops! Now i have a question. the ccfl kit for the mmrs system needs a power inverter? right? if so do, you have any recomendations?ive looked at alot of pages have not found the answer to this(I shop with perfomance pcs or...amazon.)
thanks for any help!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Don Key Sho*
> 
> hello! i purchased a Whole LOT of mmrs stuff!,and built me a cool little res.This stuff is great! no complaints went together easy and look great!
> I made some mistakes tho,bought A 50mm mount thinking it came in a pair ... . whoops! Now i have a question. the ccfl kit for the mmrs system needs a power inverter? right? if so do, you have any recomendations?ive looked at alot of pages have not found the answer to this(I shop with perfomance pcs or...amazon.)
> thanks for any help!


Thanks for the kind words =)

We are working on a few inverters that match the MMRS line--will not be available until the end of January. Till then you can try this one:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bulbs-inverters-accessories/replacement-inverter-for-cold-cathode-light-kits.html


----------



## Don Key Sho

Thanks! ill be grabbing one of yours this january then!


----------



## Deedaz

Oh I didn't even think about an inverter for those! Guess I'll have to add one to the wishlist.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You can't use one of the Ports in the X3. Which is why those come with a plug. I have one and the Inlet can only be Center or Side for mounting issues related to setup. If Gino were to do something similar you'd be in the same boat as all us Xtop owners.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plug is under my son's hand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and as another reason there is no 3 port Pmp/Res top, how do you pull coolant through the pump twice in a single loop setup? Once fro the center and once from the exterior. Not gonna happen. It isn't feasible for the best performance of your D5.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I meant the xres 140 combo they did before the revo. I know thats a D5 top and only got one feed from a res, i think you misunderstand what im try to say,



3 port res top for D5 out plus 2 in.


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh okay makes sense now and clears that up.









Top port is for fill or loop and front outlet is for loop only.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I meant the xres 140 combo they did before the revo. I know thats a D5 top and only got one feed from a res, i think you misunderstand what im try to say,
> 
> 
> 
> 3 port res top for D5 out plus 2 in.


I guess I am missing something as i don't see how that is really any different from this?



Except modular and a lot better looking =)


----------



## Radnad

^ agreed X a gazillion!


----------



## Mystriss

I'll third that the MMRS looks awesome. I couldn't hold out anymore and had to order parts for one even though I still don't know if this will be my final design lol

Is a dual res; GPU loop on the right side of the image and CPU loop on the left side of the image. I just need the extended Aquacomputer D5 Pump Covers and the splitter ring and I'll be able to see how it actually looks in my rig.



Sooo excited!


----------



## Jiryama

Definitely see what you mean about the coupler mating now! That looks really awesome and it is a great idea but after thinking about it decided that a drain port on bottom isn't how I wanted to drain my loop in long run. If I did go that route the coupler would have worked though.

MMRS has been a great product Gene and I truly have not yet found a problem I cannot overcome with your system. Outstanding job!









Now to get in line to wait for the Aqua D5 pump extender that I will order as well.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I guess I am missing something as i don't see how that is really any different from this?
> 
> 
> 
> Except modular and a lot better looking =)


I did look at that way but was wondering if you was gonna do a single d5 top rather than putting two plastic coupler thingy's together, i may go that way yet, but still waiting for them to reach the UK as i cant find anyone that stocks them as of yet. Plus how does the res combat vortexing.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Quick question all, I have set up what's in the picture below. I've noticed that there is a tripod type deal sitting in side the d5 mount to the res tube. This really seems to slow down the flow to the pump. Is it alright to remove this piece?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I did look at that way but was wondering if you was gonna do a single d5 top rather than putting two plastic coupler thingy's together, i may go that way yet, but still waiting for them to reach the UK as i cant find anyone that stocks them as of yet. Plus how does the res combat vortexing.


There is an anti-vortex trident in the TRP.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CookieSayWhat*
> 
> Quick question all, I have set up what's in the picture below. I've noticed that there is a tripod type deal sitting in side the d5 mount to the res tube. This really seems to slow down the flow to the pump. Is it alright to remove this piece?


The Trident is to stop a vortex from forming. It doesn't really affect the inlet of the pump--it isn't really blocking the inlet--its primary purpose is to stop water from spinning in the reservoir and that "tornado" from getting tall enough to suck air from the top of the reservoir into the pump. It also helps a lot with bleeding air from the loop when you are setting it up.

That said it is optional. If you don't want to use it it can be removed via the three screws holding it in place.


----------



## CookieSayWhat

Thanks for the reply!

I just have 3 D5's set up in series and didn't want to starve them at all.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> There is an anti-vortex trident in the TRP.


Oh really, thats great, as soon as there available in the UK then i will get one, that mock up u done, there isnt any chance you can do one or two more with different size res tubes so as i can get an idea, as my clearance is 254mm total, trying to work out the most i can go res wise once there all put together, prob only a 100mm as i think the 150mm will be to big.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Oh really, thats great, as soon as there available in the UK then i will get one, that mock up u done, there isnt any chance you can do one or two more with different size res tubes so as i can get an idea, as my clearance is 254mm total, trying to work out the most i can go res wise once there all put together, prob only a 100mm as i think the 150mm will be to big.


Below is a pic that shows the dimensions of each unit. Pick and choose to your hearts content.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> 
> 3rd from the left on the top is the Fill Drain Port base. Looks like it is 43mm wide but 41mm tall.
> 
> When Gene returns we should see if he can post a picture of all of the mounting templates so they are in one good location.


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Below is a pic that shows the dimensions of each unit. Pick and choose to your hearts content.


Thanks for that whats the TRP height, i cant make it out, all the others i can.


----------



## rathar3

My questions is will the FDP ever be tapped for the mounts?. I wanted to get one but my setup needs the holes for the mount to mount to the case?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Thanks for that whats the TRP height, i cant make it out, all the others i can.


If you click on the picture it will go full screen for easier reading. The reservoir tubes add the called out length--for example a 150mm tube adds 150mm of length.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> My questions is will the FDP ever be tapped for the mounts?. I wanted to get one but my setup needs the holes for the mount to mount to the case?


From the second run on we started adding the mounting holes...so any reseller stock *should* have them already. Not sure why I left these out originally...I am chalking it up to a senior moment =)


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you click on the picture it will go full screen for easier reading. The reservoir tubes add the called out length--for example a 150mm tube adds 150mm of length.


I done that thats why i said i cant make it out, and yes i figured that the res which come's in 50mm increments would be the length, ie: 50mm = 50mm length, 100mm = 100mm length, and so on, i was taught something at school, although that was 30 years ago that i left.


----------



## rathar3

Hehehe i have those quite often anymore BLEH.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> I done that thats why i said i cant make it out, and yes i figured that the res which come's in 50mm increments would be the length, ie: 50mm = 50mm length, 100mm = 100mm length, and so on, i was taught something at school, although that was 30 years ago that i left.


I only mention the length because it is nominal. The tubes recess about 6mm into each end cap--so a listed tube section of 150mm adds 150mm of length the the assembled reservoir but the actual tube length is 162mm, (150 + 6 + 6).

Try this one and after you click on it be sure to hit the "original" button below--it has a magnifying glass icon.

Of course you may already be doing that =)


----------



## Mads1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I only mention the length because it is nominal. The tubes recess about 6mm into each end cap--so a listed tube section of 150mm adds 150mm of length the the assembled reservoir but the actual tube length is 162mm, (150 + 6 + 6).
> 
> Try this one and after you click on it be sure to hit the "original" button below--it has a magnifying glass icon.
> 
> Of course you may already be doing that =)


Thanks i managed to get the size's in the end, think i can only go 100mm tube as adding the caps and pump is another 100mm ish.


----------



## rathar3

Hey Gene when are the new CCFL comming out that go inside the res?. I can't wait to see how they look


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene when are the new CCFL comming out that go inside the res?. I can't wait to see how they look


We had a slight delay because we are switching from acrylic CCFL tubes to PETG or Poly Carbonate. The acrylic is just too easily cracked and I like to sleep at night with as few worries as possible. Hurt a bit throwing so many parts in the trash but a much better choice in the long run. We have to redo the USW validation (Ultra Sonic Welding) for the new material but I am still shooting for a January release.


----------



## Ceadderman

Cand wait to see them.









Cause I would rather stuff a few into the MMRS than backlight the whole unit.









*Q:* Can we leave rods out evenly spaced or do we have to use all the rods when putting the MMRS together?









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Cand wait to see them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cause I would rather stuff a few into the MMRS than backlight the whole unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Q:* Can we leave rods out evenly spaced or do we have to use all the rods when putting the MMRS together?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If you are careful about tightening the rods down evenly and making sure there is zero lint/crap in the seals area you can use every other rod (so three total). The molded parts are stiff enough. That is a "use this method at your own risk" scenario of course =)


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Think i may upgrade to one of these. Looks like a problem solver for a lot of us.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Normally for redundancy (aka series) you would use a pair of T's and connect the out ports of both pumps. Our Light port rotaries work well for this. If you're really serious about it I can draw it up for you to show how I would do it.


Could you please explain how I would use a light port rotary as a T.

Have been checking both Casekings.de and Highflow.nl, still nothing pretty to be found unfortunately.


----------



## SAL9000

I've been following this thread for a while and I was wondering if Monsoon has any plans for a product to use 2 pumps with one reservoir. I know there is a way to use two pumps at either end but what about using 2 pumps with a vertical cylinder reservoir or a bay reservoir. That's why I'm asking.

Thanks


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mads1*
> 
> Thanks for that whats the TRP height, i cant make it out, all the others i can.


Sure, you could just get an endcap with 3 ports on the Bottom and top (MMRS-EC-3P) and have 2 of the ports going to the Pump and the 3rd for a drain port. Then you can use the same cap on the top, 2 of the ports for loop return and a third for filling.

Or if you want to be able to have the return with the water going into the side you could always the MMRS-SP-1P. This will give you 2 side ports that you can have the water running back in at the top of reservoir, and 2 side ports leading to a pump on the bottom of the reservoir. Leaves you with a ports on the top for filling still, same on the bottom for draining.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Cand wait to see them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cause I would rather stuff a few into the MMRS than backlight the whole unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Q:* Can we leave rods out evenly spaced or do we have to use all the rods when putting the MMRS together?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you are careful about tightening the rods down evenly and making sure there is zero lint/crap in the seals area you can use every other rod (so three total). The molded parts are stiff enough. That is a "use this method at your own risk" scenario of course =)
Click to expand...

Quite.

I have seen a bending jig kit scary similar to yours over the last couple days. Any commentary on your part would help clarify the subject. Yes bending jigs have been around for eons. But the kit I've seen looks exactly as yours do other than color and possibly material.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> Could you please explain how I would use a light port rotary as a T.
> 
> Have been checking both Casekings.de and Highflow.nl, still nothing pretty to be found unfortunately.


T's are usually used in one of two ways--to combine the flow from two sources or to split the flow of a single source into two parts. In your case you want the redundancy of two pumps feeding a single loop in case of a pump failure, (if I remember correctly from your previous posts) so you would be combining the flow of two pumps into a single loop. Pump A has a light port rotary screwed into the out port. Pump B has a line running from its out put port to a leg of the rotary in Pump A. The last leg of the T in pump A travels out to the first component in your loop.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SAL9000*
> 
> I've been following this thread for a while and I was wondering if Monsoon has any plans for a product to use 2 pumps with one reservoir. I know there is a way to use two pumps at either end but what about using 2 pumps with a vertical cylinder reservoir or a bay reservoir. That's why I'm asking.
> 
> Thanks


I have looked at a dual tube pump head that would accept two pumps and dual tubes side by side. The biggest issue is the "why"? If you have room for dual vertical tubes you can just use two TRP parts...So few of a dual pump part would sell that there just isn't enough of a market to make the part viable.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quite.
> 
> I have seen a bending jig kit scary similar to yours over the last couple days. Any commentary on your part would help clarify the subject. Yes bending jigs have been around for eons. But the kit I've seen looks exactly as yours do other than color and possibly material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You are likely referring to the knock off from Barrow. The omit the 360 degree mandrel and all of the mounting hardware. The mandrels have no polish so there are a lot of sharp edges to scratch up your tube while bending. I try not to get too upset about it...knock off's happen and as a little company that is design and quality focused...not much I can do about it. Insult to injury--we designed the mandrel kits and did all the how to videos in support of our customers and the modding community, not as a profit driven product. I kind of felt like people were being misled about how "easy" it was to use hard tubing so I did the tools as a sort of counter to that. We sold them to resellers at our cost.

No good deed goes unpunished right?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quite.
> 
> I have seen a bending jig kit scary similar to yours over the last couple days. Any commentary on your part would help clarify the subject. Yes bending jigs have been around for eons. But the kit I've seen looks exactly as yours do other than color and possibly material.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You are likely referring to the knock off from Barrow. The omit the 360 degree mandrel and all of the mounting hardware. The mandrels have no polish so there are a lot of sharp edges to scratch up your tube while bending. I try not to get too upset about it...knock off's happen and as a little company that is design and quality focused...not much I can do about it. Insult to injury--we designed the mandrel kits and did all the how to videos in support of our customers and the modding community, not as a profit driven product. I kind of felt like people were being misled about how "easy" it was to use hard tubing so I did the tools as a sort of counter to that. We sold them to resellers at our cost.
> 
> No good deed goes unpunished right?
Click to expand...

Still, as a result of their foul deeds I refuse to support any business that stock their products. Because we consumers get what we pay for, as the old saying goes.









Thank you for confirming.









~Ceadder


----------



## JbstormburstADV

So, as a legitimate question, are there any male-to-male adapters that you would recommend to go with the matte black standard rotary? I need one to connect my valve for a drain path.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> So, as a legitimate question, are there any male-to-male adapters that you would recommend to go with the matte black standard rotary? I need one to connect my valve for a drain path.


I have never used one so no idea...maybe somebody else in here knows of one?


----------



## Ceadderman

BitsPower has one iirc. check in PPCs.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> So, as a legitimate question, are there any male-to-male adapters that you would recommend to go with the matte black standard rotary? I need one to connect my valve for a drain path.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> BitsPower has one iirc. check in PPCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-mini-dual-g1-4-high-flow-fitting-black-matte-finish.html


----------



## BoxGods

How often do you guys use a part like that? Worth us making one (so they match Monsoon's look) do you think?


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Honestly, it would be better if you could come out with a ball valve with a male end and a female end than with just the male to male connector.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> How often do you guys use a part like that? Worth us making one (so they match Monsoon's look) do you think?


I've been looking at that part so that I can incorporate a drain port into my loop ... something like a 3-way ball part between two radiators with the part quoted above coupling the ball to the shut off valve. These links are perfect as the ball I have quoted also has a male outlet that could be used to connect to the shut off valve.

In short, they appear to me to be a very situational part that is typically hidden in the depths of the build (if I end up using one, it will be in my pedestal).


----------



## bigboy678

I was wondering Boxgod if you plan on making DDC bottom for your monsoon modular reservoir series. I have an idea in my head but the size of the d5 pump would definitely get in the way of a radiator. With a ddc pump i think i might be able to clear it


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> So, as a legitimate question, are there any male-to-male adapters that you would recommend to go with the matte black standard rotary? I need one to connect my valve for a drain path.


ek also has a MM adapter


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> How often do you guys use a part like that? Worth us making one (so they match Monsoon's look) do you think?


Ball Valves and T fittings are more in demand tbh. Male/Male fittings are a nice add when clearance is required but they aren't all that necessary for completing a loop imho.

T fitting should be male threaded on on side of the T with Female threading at the bottom and the other side This way flow is uninterrupted while the bottom part of the T can accept ball valve fitting for drainage.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> I was wondering Boxgod if you plan on making DDC bottom for your monsoon modular reservoir series. I have an idea in my head but the size of the d5 pump would definitely get in the way of a radiator. With a ddc pump i think i might be able to clear it


It wouldn't be hard to do...the problem is getting resellers to carry it as the DDC just does not sell all that well these days. Sad as it is such a nice little pump.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ball Valves and T fittings are more in demand tbh. Male/Male fittings are a nice add when clearance is required but they aren't all that necessary for completing a loop imho.
> 
> T fitting should be male threaded on on side of the T with Female threading at the bottom and the other side This way flow is uninterrupted while the bottom part of the T can accept ball valve fitting for drainage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I wonder if a true "Y" wouldn't be better in that situation? Less restrictive as three 45's. Food for thought.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ball Valves and T fittings are more in demand tbh. Male/Male fittings are a nice add when clearance is required but they aren't all that necessary for completing a loop imho.
> 
> T fitting should be male threaded on on side of the T with Female threading at the bottom and the other side This way flow is uninterrupted while the bottom part of the T can accept ball valve fitting for drainage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if a true "Y" wouldn't be better in that situation? Less restrictive as three 45's. Food for thought.
Click to expand...

Pump Outlet to T is a straight flow and much better than a Y. That Y fitting concept is actually more restrictive because an angle would be introduced. A true T fitting has at least one straight and the angle is inconsequential as it's essentially a stopper with a Ball valve which is only open when draining/filling the loop.









~Ceadder


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It wouldn't be hard to do...the problem is getting resellers to carry it as the DDC just does not sell all that well these days. Sad as it is such a nice little pump.


huh.. i didnt know that, i actually though that the ddc's were still the more popular ones nowadays. things change fast


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigboy678*
> 
> huh.. i didnt know that, i actually though that the ddc's were still the more popular ones nowadays. things change fast


I really enjoy Small Form Factor builds so I have used the DDC a lot...so I was a bit surprised also. The D5 outsells the DDC about 15 to 1.


----------



## bigboy678

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I really enjoy Small Form Factor builds so I have used the DDC a lot...so I was a bit surprised also. The D5 outsells the DDC about 15 to 1.


WOW, thats pretty crazy. I guess since the D5's are usually quite a bit quieter.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I really enjoy Small Form Factor builds so I have used the DDC a lot...so I was a bit surprised also. The D5 outsells the DDC about 15 to 1.


That is quite a surprise. I've had better experiences with the DDC pumps than the D5's. Noise seems about equal and the higher head pressure is quite nice.


----------



## Ceadderman

DDC are quieter than D5, but D5 have more head pressure than DDC.

The reason D5 outsell DDC are variable however. One reason is D5 can be controllable at the pump where there is no Vario DDC model. The only way to control those is with a Fan controller. Another is the Follower archetype. People see D5s in more custom builds so they buy a D5 without query.

TBH both are very good and will keep coolant flowing nicely. I rather like my DDCs', but am going D5 this time round specifically for fitment. I can stuff a single D5 in the space where both my DDC will not fit and MMRS doesn't have a DDC base.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> DDC are quieter than D5, but D5 have more head pressure than DDC.
> 
> The reason D5 outsell DDC are variable however. One reason is D5 can be controllable at the pump where there is no Vario DDC model. The only way to control those is with a Fan controller. Another is the Follower archetype. People see D5s in more custom builds so they buy a D5 without query.
> 
> TBH both are very good and will keep coolant flowing nicely. I rather like my DDCs', but am going D5 this time round specifically for fitment. I can stuff a single D5 in the space where both my DDC will not fit and MMRS doesn't have a DDC base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My DDC pump(s) are pwm controlled. Swiftech MCP35x2 They also have about 6 ft more head pressure than the D5's, but produce lower Gallon per Hour flow rate than D5's.

Here are the EK variants:

D5

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump

- Rated voltage: 12V DC
- Power consumption: 23W
- Maximum pressure head: 3.9m
- Maximum flow: 1500L/h

DDC 3.2

https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-acetal-incl-pump

- Rated voltage: 12 V DC
- Power consumption: 18 W
- Maximum head pressure: up to 5.2m
- Maximum flow rate: up to 1000 L/h

Flow rate is the only category the D5 is superior to the DDC


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> DDC are quieter than D5, but D5 have more head pressure than DDC.
> 
> The reason D5 outsell DDC are variable however. One reason is D5 can be controllable at the pump where there is no Vario DDC model. The only way to control those is with a Fan controller. Another is the Follower archetype. People see D5s in more custom builds so they buy a D5 without query.
> 
> TBH both are very good and will keep coolant flowing nicely. I rather like my DDCs', but am going D5 this time round specifically for fitment. I can stuff a single D5 in the space where both my DDC will not fit and MMRS doesn't have a DDC base.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My DDC pump(s) are pwm controlled. Swiftech MCP35x2 They also have about 6 ft more head pressure than the D5's, but produce lower Gallon per Hour flow rate than D5's.
> 
> Here are the EK variants:
> 
> D5
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-revo-d5-pwm-incl-pump
> 
> - Rated voltage: 12V DC
> - Power consumption: 23W
> - Maximum pressure head: 3.9m
> - Maximum flow: 1500L/h
> 
> DDC 3.2
> 
> https://shop.ekwb.com/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-acetal-incl-pump
> 
> - Rated voltage: 12 V DC
> - Power consumption: 18 W
> - Maximum head pressure: up to 5.2m
> - Maximum flow rate: up to 1000 L/h
> 
> Flow rate is the only category the D5 is superior to the DDC
Click to expand...

I was referring specifically controllable at the pump. Yes that DDC is PWM but there is no way to control it at the pump. My EK D5 Vario has the blue tach cable but it's controllable at the pump. It was this feature that a lot of enthusiasts wanted and imho it's what prompted the sales figures toward the D5 over the DDC.









~Ceadder


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> DDC are quieter than D5, but D5 have more head pressure than DDC.


Isn't this the wrong way around......









Generally D5's tend to be quieter and DDC's have a higher head pressure?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> DDC are quieter than D5, but D5 have more head pressure than DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't this the wrong way around......
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Generally D5's tend to be quieter and DDC's have a higher head pressure?
Click to expand...

Yes. I meant higher rate of flow but DDCs are quieter in my experience. I can compare my Dual DDC unit to my D5 and post the result sometime in the near future. But I never heard my DDCs unless I turned down my fans which are a 250 Cooler Master, and three Yate Loon SH12s on my Radiator.









~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

DDCs are generally louder than D5s at the same pump RPM, and have a higher max head than D5s.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> DDCs are generally louder than D5s at the same pump RPM, and have a higher max head than D5s.


I dunno then. My DDC at max are pretty quiet compared to my D5 at max. Of course I don't have a shoggy sandwich or anything to dampen it atm. Although my DDC are only supported by EK mounts that came with the v2 block.









~Ceadder


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> So, as a legitimate question, are there any male-to-male adapters that you would recommend to go with the matte black standard rotary? I need one to connect my valve for a drain path.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> BitsPower has one iirc. check in PPCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-mini-dual-g1-4-high-flow-fitting-black-matte-finish.html
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> How often do you guys use a part like that? Worth us making one (so they match Monsoon's look) do you think?


I, for one, use them a lot, in different lengths. In my latest build I went with EK instead of Bitspower, because the vertical lines on the EK extender are a better match to my Monsoon free center fittings. I think it would be great to be able to get all Monsoon parts so the match would be perfect instead of just passable!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I was referring specifically controllable at the pump. Yes that DDC is PWM but there is no way to control it at the pump. My EK D5 Vario has the blue tach cable but it's controllable at the pump. It was this feature that a lot of enthusiasts wanted and imho it's what prompted the sales figures toward the D5 over the DDC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ah, that's right, my bad. Really wish those dials were on the side or top of the pumps instead of on the bottom. Trying to adjust them on the fly was always a beat down. Glad PWM started getting implemented instead of that dial. Poor location or not, still way better than no dial at all


----------



## BoxGods

Everyone I know just runs em full bore anyway...so I am not sure there is much point lol. The only way you could get people to not run them set at 5 is to add a 6.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Everyone I know just runs em full bore anyway...so I am not sure there is much point lol. *The only way you could get people to not run them set at 5 is to add a 6.*










lulz

True. But some people want to keep their pumps quiet. Pump speed really doesn't matter much for temps. +/- a degree or two means nothing in a gaming system and little difference to a system that runs more intensive operations above that. I know people who run 3 on their i7s doing vid encoding 10-12hrs a day. So they want their systems as quiet as they can keep them and still keep them reasonably cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

Hey BoxGods any chance someday of a d5 pump color swap Kit. Where we could get all the colored parts and keep the black housing?. I am going to the new 1151 socket and the MB i want is red and all my fittings are blue. i don't mind buying the fittings but would be nice if there was a kit to change your D5 pump and save a few bucks. Just a thought


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey BoxGods any chance someday of a d5 pump color swap Kit. Where we could get all the colored parts and keep the black housing?. I am going to the new 1151 socket and the MB i want is red and all my fittings are blue. i don't mind buying the fittings but would be nice if there was a kit to change your D5 pump and save a few bucks. Just a thought


Do you mean the stand-alone pump mount? I suppose you could just buy the pump cover and feet used in the modular system, and buy a color kit for the dual-bay res for the screws (I did for mine, since screws were missing from the first batch).


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah what he said =)

Pretty much every item is available now as a stand alone part. I have even tried to get the resellers to stock the fittings in kit form as they are modular as well.


----------



## eucalyptus

The amount of Monsoon fittings is to damn high









































Wish to see some extension fittings now, double male fittings, 30 degree fittings









Btw Gene, I was wondering, the 90 degree fittings, one end is 20mm, the other end (with screw mount) is only 18mm, why not make it 20?
Because it would be awesome to stack multiple adapters on eachother but looks weird when one end is 18, and the other is 20, if you know what I mean


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> The amount of Monsoon fittings is to damn high
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wish to see some extension fittings now, double male fittings, 30 degree fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw Gene, I was wondering, the 90 degree fittings, one end is 20mm, the other end (with screw mount) is only 18mm, why not make it 20?
> Because it would be awesome to stack multiple adapters on eachother but looks weird when one end is 18, and the other is 20, if you know what I mean


First off...WOW









On the Light Port Rotaries...honestly I can't remember why I did them that way as A: I have the memory of a fruit fly, and B: I designed those like three YEARS ago =)

That said I am sure I had a good reason...Seems like everyone is wanting white parts these days also...I may have to break down an mold some end caps in white and see how they do. Same for the double ended male fittings. On those would you guys want the ring in the center to be as small as possible?


----------



## Blackseep

@BoxGods Do you have an idea when the reservoir couplers will be released for purchase?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Wish to see some extension fittings now, double male fittings, 30 degree fittings


^^^^
This


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Same for the double ended male fittings. On those would you guys want the ring in the center to be as small as possible?


Geno, some m2f extenders in different sizes would be a wonderful addition to your line. Maybe 25 mm to clear fans on radiators, and whatever length (8 mm?) is necessary from preventing adjacent 90s on close-together ports (like CPU blocks) from bumping into each other...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackseep*
> 
> @BoxGods Do you have an idea when the reservoir couplers will be released for purchase?


Couplers were available at launch...so I am assuming you mean mating kits? Those were all done and then I realized that the anti-vortex tridents are slightly too large to work with the mating kit...so we are testing a revised edition. They will be included in the mating kit for those that want to use them. So short answer: Another few weeks. Plan on end of the month just to be safe. Sooner if we can of course.

The new trident design is a press in part that fits inside any of the molded end caps (also the coupler) so I think we will offer them as a separate part also for those who want virtually zero spin in their reservoirs. I will add a video covering their installation and possible uses.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Geno, some m2f extenders in different sizes would be a wonderful addition to your line. Maybe 25 mm to clear fans on radiators, and whatever length (8 mm?) is necessary from preventing adjacent 90s on close-together ports (like CPU blocks) from bumping into each other...


Yeah enough people have asked for these that I am going to go ahead and add them to the line. Probably risers in a few heights, 12mm, 24mm, and maybe a 48mm. A male/male with as small a bearing flange as possible--like 3mm. Quite a few people have asked for a on/off valve (like a spigot) so I might do one of these as well.


----------



## BoxGods

@eucalyptus I meant to ask why you did not use the white accent disks on your green rotaries? If they added too much white then at least the green disks so the recess on the end of the rotaries is not so "hugggge" to quote the Donald =)


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> @eucalyptus I meant to ask why you did not use the white accent disks on your green rotaries? If they added too much white then at least the green disks so the recess on the end of the rotaries is not so "hugggge" to quote the Donald =)


I love them as they are







They are just superb! No disks needed, at least no white ones









If I had black or white ones I would have disks, for example green disks on white rotaries and so on. But that is because white and black is a "basic" color, something you start with and not add-on.

For example white is my main color with green as a luxury add-on color and no needed to put basic color disks on.

I guess the disks only purpose is to give that final touch for something who has a dark build.

I am confusing, I know, but a big thanks for your wise and kind wors
















And these aren't light ports, these are the ones I drilled , you remember?









Have to ask you, are the lock collars PETG or still acrylic? I am freaking terrified after what people has gone through and what they say can, and has happened to them







I bought 36, but I don't really remember how many I have in the build.

Also, the UV glue, it's more secured than solid stone hahaha it's amazing! I am using a 2 dollar UV led flashlight from Ebay with 10 led diodes or something, just a few minutes from every different angle and it's all done









Thanks again Gene!


----------



## Blackseep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Couplers were available at launch...so I am assuming you mean mating kits? Those were all done and then I realized that the anti-vortex tridents are slightly too large to work with the mating kit...so we are testing a revised edition. They will be included in the mating kit for those that want to use them. So short answer: Another few weeks. Plan on end of the month just to be safe. Sooner if we can of course.
> 
> The new trident design is a press in part that fits inside any of the molded end caps (also the coupler) so I think we will offer them as a separate part also for those who want virtually zero spin in their reservoirs. I will add a video covering their installation and possible uses.


Thanks. Yeah, I meant mating kit for the coupler. Lack of sleep and long work hours makes me an idiot.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I love them as they are
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are just superb! No disks needed, at least no white ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I had black or white ones I would have disks, for example green disks on white rotaries and so on. But that is because white and black is a "basic" color, something you start with and not add-on.
> 
> For example white is my main color with green as a luxury add-on color and no needed to put basic color disks on.
> 
> I guess the disks only purpose is to give that final touch for something who has a dark build.
> 
> I am confusing, I know, but a big thanks for your wise and kind wors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And these aren't light ports, these are the ones I drilled , you remember?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have to ask you, are the lock collars PETG or still acrylic? I am freaking terrified after what people has gone through and what they say can, and has happened to them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought 36, but I don't really remember how many I have in the build.
> 
> Also, the UV glue, it's more secured than solid stone hahaha it's amazing! I am using a 2 dollar UV led flashlight from Ebay with 10 led diodes or something, just a few minutes from every different angle and it's all done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again Gene!


We destroyed all of the acrylic lock collars we had on hand when we made the switch to poly carbonate--has to be almost a year ago now--so none have gone out for a long time. You can check the inside flap of the package for a stamp that reads POLY or PC. If you don't have a package left just stomp on a spare lock collar--if it shatters into lots of bits it was acrylic. If it just "mooshes" or deforms it was poly carbonate.

And I totally agree on the UV cure adhesive--amazing stuff and easily my favorite glue of all time. It is the best of both worlds. All the time in the world to work with it so no stress but it cures almost instantly when you want it to so no waiting around...strong as a rock and 100% clear...how do you beat that?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackseep*
> 
> Thanks. Yeah, I meant mating kit for the coupler. Lack of sleep and long work hours makes me an idiot.


Nah the naming thing is tough...for some stupid reason I originally named the couplers "Bulkheads"...no clue why as their obvious purpose (and name) is as a coupler. The only thing I suck at more than naming stuff is part numbers =)


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Geno, some m2f extenders in different sizes would be a wonderful addition to your line. Maybe 25 mm to clear fans on radiators, and whatever length (8 mm?) is necessary from preventing adjacent 90s on close-together ports (like CPU blocks) from bumping into each other...
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah enough people have asked for these that I am going to go ahead and add them to the line. Probably risers in a few heights, 12mm, 24mm, and maybe a 48mm. A male/male with as small a bearing flange as possible--like 3mm. Quite a few people have asked for a on/off valve (like a spigot) so I might do one of these as well.
Click to expand...

Awesome! That means in my next build I will be able to use all Monsoon fittings


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You can check the inside flap of the package for a stamp that reads POLY or PC.


Good to know! I just checked mine, and found a package with no stamp (the last I bought, from ppcs).
What about the replacement collars? Any (non-destructive) way to tell if they're Acrylic or PC? I have one package, can't find anything on it, is it possible to find out by comparison?
Thanks again









EDIT:
Back on the MMRS, I just realized the fill/drain block has no screw holes for the side mounts... I understand that's because it is supposed to be hold in place by the fill port itself, but it also means no proper support for the CCFL, or am I missing something?
Also, any news on distribution in Europe?


----------



## Mystriss

Lookie what my favorite postman gave me last night!



Hopefully later this week I can kinda put it together (missing mating kit and two Aquacomputer pump covers) and see how it looks in my rig


----------



## xerythul

Thought I'd post a little tease as I'm just now able to get back into building my rig. I shorted myself two (yes two) fittings so those are on the way, other than that I am just procrastinating taking down my current rig to remove the 980 thats under water right now. Anyway.......



EDIT:

One more because I'm so happy to show off the progress...


----------



## Don Key Sho

Forgive the bad photography! this is my first build. so please forgive the cable management.





im going to switch out the clear tube for your blue one.

thanks box gods!


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Don Key Sho*
> 
> Forgive the bad photography! this is my first build. so please forgive the cable management.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> im going to switch out the clear tube for your blue one.
> 
> thanks box gods!


nice looking rig there. I used the same plugs in my res to. Now just waiting for monsoon to let the new internal CCFL out then my res is gonna GLOW!!!


----------



## Don Key Sho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> nice looking rig there. I used the same plugs in my res to. Now just waiting for monsoon to let the new internal CCFL out then my res is gonna GLOW!!!


thanks!


----------



## Ceadderman

That build above reminded me about visual flow meters. Would love to see one of these produced by Monsoon.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Good to know! I just checked mine, and found a package with no stamp (the last I bought, from ppcs).
> What about the replacement collars? Any (non-destructive) way to tell if they're Acrylic or PC? I have one package, can't find anything on it, is it possible to find out by comparison?
> Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Back on the MMRS, I just realized the fill/drain block has no screw holes for the side mounts... I understand that's because it is supposed to be hold in place by the fill port itself, but it also means no proper support for the CCFL, or am I missing something?
> Also, any news on distribution in Europe?


Did you look INSIDE the package flaps? The stamp should read "PC" or "POLY". If you bought them recently they will almost certainly be the newer poly carbonate lock collars as PPCS turns inventory pretty quickly. I am not aware of a non destructive method (beyond the stamp) as we use the same mold and both materials are clear...I just double checked with my guys and we ARE still including the stamp on any product package that includes lock collars. I probably will continue to include the stamp for another 6 months just to make sure any old inventory resellers might have is gone.

On the FDP-BASE part we started adding those mounting holes after the first shipment to PPCS so you should not have gotten one without them...it is possible the new shipments were tossed into the bin at PPCS while there were a few of the originals still left. Sorry about that as it was 100% my fault for not thinking about mounting CCFL's even if the FDP-BASE was used to "hang mount" the reservoir. My Bad =(


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Thought I'd post a little tease as I'm just now able to get back into building my rig. I shorted myself two (yes two) fittings so those are on the way, other than that I am just procrastinating taking down my current rig to remove the 980 thats under water right now. Anyway.......
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> One more because I'm so happy to show off the progress...


Looks awesome...but it NEEDS the white accent disks on the rotaries! Or at the very least purple disks so the end machined cavities are not so DEEP. =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Lookie what my favorite postman gave me last night!
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully later this week I can kinda put it together (missing mating kit and two Aquacomputer pump covers) and see how it looks in my rig


Going all mysterious with a little frosted tube action I see. Be sure to wash the parts in warm soapy water--the O ring also--or you might see that little bit of wicking on the ends of the frosted tube.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Don Key Sho*
> 
> Forgive the bad photography! this is my first build. so please forgive the cable management.
> 
> im going to switch out the clear tube for your blue one.
> 
> thanks box gods!


Looks great! First image I have seen that clearly shows the Anti-Vortex trident. I was worried they mot not look "cool" in there but I actually like it...glad I did not go with the big paddle style now. Also glad I didn't make them red lol.

Did you have any trouble with a vortex forming in that shorter length of tube...looks like about 100mm?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That build above reminded me about visual flow meters. Would love to see one of these produced by Monsoon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Man I design a new flow meter at least every other week =)

I keep changing my mind on what the ultimate flow meter would include.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Don Key Sho*
> 
> Forgive the bad photography! this is my first build. so please forgive the cable management.
> 
> im going to switch out the clear tube for your blue one.
> 
> thanks box gods!
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great! First image I have seen that clearly shows the Anti-Vortex trident. I was worried they mot not look "cool" in there but I actually like it...glad I did not go with the big paddle style now. Also glad I didn't make them red lol.
> 
> Did you have any trouble with a vortex forming in that shorter length of tube...looks like about 100mm?
Click to expand...

What's the part number for the trident? Can't seem to find it on ppcs.


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks awesome...but it NEEDS the white accent disks on the rotaries! Or at the very least purple disks so the end machined cavities are not so DEEP. =)


I just checked on PPCS and they have exactly one white disc in stock so no luck there. I did short myself two fittings too which is a bummer but those are on the way now at least.


----------



## Don Key Sho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks great! First image I have seen that clearly shows the Anti-Vortex trident. I was worried they mot not look "cool" in there but I actually like it...glad I did not go with the big paddle style now. Also glad I didn't make them red lol.
> 
> Did you have any trouble with a vortex forming in that shorter length of tube...looks like about 100mm?


yup 100mm ! i have tiny bubbles in the res, nothing getting sucked down, just spinning thier little butts off.one of the pictures with the cfls on shows them. they look like little scratches. just wish you made a deep gold transparent... would look like beer!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That build above reminded me about visual flow meters. Would love to see one of these produced by Monsoon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man I design a new flow meter at least every other week =)
> 
> I keep changing my mind on what the ultimate flow meter would include.
Click to expand...

3 ports,(Inlet, Outlet/Temp) and a paddle wheel is all that's necessary.









~Ceadder


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That build above reminded me about visual flow meters. Would love to see one of these produced by Monsoon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man I design a new flow meter at least every other week =)
> 
> I keep changing my mind on what the ultimate flow meter would include.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 3 ports,(Inlet, Outlet/Temp) and a paddle wheel is all that's necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I much prefer differential pressure flow meters to mechanical: nothing to break down or wear out (or potentially block/restrict flow), and no annoying noises. The problem in translating the signal, or the rpm info in the case of a mechanical meter, into a flow rate measurement, is accurate calibration with different tubing sizes, without which the information is not as useful.


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Did you look INSIDE the package flaps? The stamp should read "PC" or "POLY". If you bought them recently they will almost certainly be the newer poly carbonate lock collars as PPCS turns inventory pretty quickly. I am not aware of a non destructive method (beyond the stamp) as we use the same mold and both materials are clear...I just double checked with my guys and we ARE still including the stamp on any product package that includes lock collars. I probably will continue to include the stamp for another 6 months just to make sure any old inventory resellers might have is gone.
> 
> On the FDP-BASE part we started adding those mounting holes after the first shipment to PPCS so you should not have gotten one without them...it is possible the new shipments were tossed into the bin at PPCS while there were a few of the originals still left. Sorry about that as it was 100% my fault for not thinking about mounting CCFL's even if the FDP-BASE was used to "hang mount" the reservoir. My Bad =(


Thanks for your reply! My res parts are from the first shipment, so it makes sense








The replacement collars I got (bought from Aquatuning - Germany months ago) came into a blister, without an external paper packaging, so I have no clues on where to check


----------



## DNMock

Got all my salvage parts put back together in a Thermaltake P5 case, build turned out quite nice. Would post some pictures but when I tried to fire it up, it was a no go, too much water/glass/debris must have gotten in there from the storm. Insurance company is going to poop themselves when they see the bill for all the toys haha.


----------



## DaClownie

I just read this whole thread, and holy awesome stuff. Love seeing people's ideas...

Now, to purchase and assemble my own


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I just read this whole thread, and holy awesome stuff. Love seeing people's ideas...
> 
> Now, to purchase and assemble my own


I got a few broken reservoirs for sale, super cheap!


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I just read this whole thread, and holy awesome stuff. Love seeing people's ideas...
> 
> Now, to purchase and assemble my own
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got a few broken reservoirs for sale, super cheap!
Click to expand...

I read a lot of posts today... were you the one that baked the res in a gas oven to bend it and it didn't go so well but then you built this killer wrap around reservoir for your desk build?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I read a lot of posts today... were you the one that baked the res in a gas oven to bend it and it didn't go so well but then you built this killer wrap around reservoir for your desk build?


yup. Had...


----------



## DaClownie

What the hell happened? Don't tell me it was the tornadoes?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I read a lot of posts today... were you the one that baked the res in a gas oven to bend it and it didn't go so well but then you built this killer wrap around reservoir for your desk build?
> 
> 
> 
> yup. Had...
Click to expand...

I want to cry just looking at that...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I read a lot of posts today... were you the one that baked the res in a gas oven to bend it and it didn't go so well but then you built this killer wrap around reservoir for your desk build?
> 
> 
> 
> yup. Had...
Click to expand...

Whattayamean, had? You sell it?









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I read a lot of posts today... were you the one that baked the res in a gas oven to bend it and it didn't go so well but then you built this killer wrap around reservoir for your desk build?
> 
> 
> 
> yup. Had...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Whattayamean, had? You sell it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

That looks scarily like storm damage in that room. Tarps, debris, stuff everywhere... hope I'm wrong.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I read a lot of posts today... were you the one that baked the res in a gas oven to bend it and it didn't go so well but then you built this killer wrap around reservoir for your desk build?
> 
> 
> 
> yup. Had...
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Whattayamean, had? You sell it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That looks scarily like storm damage in that room. Tarps, debris, stuff everywhere... hope I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

Tornados in Texas. He was practically ground zero.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Tornados in Texas. He was practically ground zero.


lol yup. That room actually held out better than the others. Coulda been worse, only half my house is gone, next three over are just slabs.

The real victim was Mr. Tornado. Poor guy was lost and just trying to get home to Oklahoma.



that's the view from my bathroom window (no I don't know why I had a window there, I hated that thing anyway).


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> What's the part number for the trident? Can't seem to find it on ppcs.


It is included with the molded TRP part. A slightly different version (it presses in) will come with the mating kit when those ship, and that version will be available as a stand alone part.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> I just checked on PPCS and they have exactly one white disc in stock so no luck there. I did short myself two fittings too which is a bummer but those are on the way now at least.


PPCS has an order on the way, (no idea if it includes white accent disks tho) and we FINALLY have inventory in stock here in Texas for just about everything except MMRS--which we will add soon--so we can resupply our resellers much more quickly now. Hopefully =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Don Key Sho*
> 
> yup 100mm ! i have tiny bubbles in the res, nothing getting sucked down, just spinning thier little butts off.one of the pictures with the cfls on shows them. they look like little scratches. just wish you made a deep gold transparent... would look like beer!


mmm...beer =)

The little bubbles go away--or gather in the top of the fill port reservoir to be 'topped off" in a few days. I actually kind of like them as they are a great visual indicator that the pump is on and doing its thing...and as you mention they look pretty cool when lighted.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 3 ports,(Inlet, Outlet/Temp) and a paddle wheel is all that's necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I had not considered adding a temp probe slot...good thinking. It is more involved then you think tho. Do I make the in and out at a 90 or inline? Do I make the body from brass and finish it in our Monsoon colors...or black nylon? Windows on one or both sides? Lighted with an LED port? Should the wheels be UV reactive material? Should there be provisions for mounting it or let it sorta dangle? One wheel or two 180 degrees apart?

The list goes on and on and trust me--whatever you answer the next 10 guys will answer something different. It may come down to doing 2 or 3 different versions.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I much prefer differential pressure flow meters to mechanical: nothing to break down or wear out (or potentially block/restrict flow), and no annoying noises. The problem in translating the signal, or the rpm info in the case of a mechanical meter, into a flow rate measurement, is accurate calibration with different tubing sizes, without which the information is not as useful.


See what I mean? Everyone has a different idea of what constitutes "perfect" when it comes to a flow meter. What you are describing is more useful form a data point perspective. Some people prefer a more simple visual reference where the flow wheel is part indicator and part kinetic water sculpture. They do not really want a hard RPM number so much as reassurance that yup...pumps running.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man I design a new flow meter at least every other week =)
> 
> I keep changing my mind on what the ultimate flow meter would include.


So basically what you are saying is that it probably wouldn't take too much pressure and input to get an Monsoon Official Flow Meter?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> PPCS has an order on the way, (no idea if it includes white accent disks tho) and we FINALLY have inventory in stock here in Texas for just about everything except MMRS--which we will add soon--so we can resupply our resellers much more quickly now. Hopefully =)


Here in Texas? Does Monsoon have a brick and mortar store in the state?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Thanks for your reply! My res parts are from the first shipment, so it makes sense
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The replacement collars I got (bought from Aquatuning - Germany months ago) came into a blister, without an external paper packaging, so I have no clues on where to check


Sounds like you could have the older parts...when in doubt just step on one is my advice...lame I know but a cheap way to feel reassured.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Got all my salvage parts put back together in a Thermaltake P5 case, build turned out quite nice. Would post some pictures but when I tried to fire it up, it was a no go, too much water/glass/debris must have gotten in there from the storm. Insurance company is going to poop themselves when they see the bill for all the toys haha.


Make SURE you stay on the insurance company as one of the things they try to do to avoid paying is make the process so convoluted and time consuming people just give up. We had Hurricane Dolly roll right over the top of us--what a mess.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I want to cry just looking at that...


me too =(


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> So basically what you are saying is that it probably wouldn't take too much pressure and input to get an Monsoon Official Flow Meter?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here in Texas? Does Monsoon have a brick and mortar store in the state?


No we don't sell direct as it really ticks off resellers, (and I see why it would). Plus I would never get any work done...you know how it is when modders get together and start talking shop. Add to that that we are so deep into South Texas that we might as well be in Mexico and there is not much point to a retail shop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Tornados in Texas. He was practically ground zero.
> 
> 
> 
> lol yup. That room actually held out better than the others. Coulda been worse, only half my house is gone, next three over are just slabs.
> 
> The real victim was Mr. Tornado. Poor guy was lost and just trying to get home to Oklahoma.
> 
> 
> 
> that's the view from my bathroom window (no I don't know why I had a window there, I hated that thing anyway).
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear that man. Is it me or did the monitor make it unscathed?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 3 ports,(Inlet, Outlet/Temp) and a paddle wheel is all that's necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had not considered adding a temp probe slot...good thinking. It is more involved then you think tho. Do I make the in and out at a 90 or inline? Do I make the body from brass and finish it in our Monsoon colors...or black nylon? Windows on one or both sides? Lighted with an LED port? Should the wheels be UV reactive material? Should there be provisions for mounting it or let it sorta dangle? One wheel or two 180 degrees apart?
> 
> The list goes on and on and trust me--whatever you answer the next 10 guys will answer something different. It may come down to doing 2 or 3 different versions.
Click to expand...

Simple T. Finish it in Monsoon colors. Which I am sure we would all agree with. So Brass connections are in order. Inlet and Outlet are directly opposite of each other Or swappable with the Sensor port. The body cannot be solid if you wish to see the wheel spin. So I would not suggest putting fittings on it. Those can be added to taste. i.e. Hardline or Flex fittings. So Brass Fem/Fem end fittings to prevent the clear plastic/acrylic/PETG from cracking.

I would simply do one style first and perfect it based on feedback.









~Ceadder


----------



## eucalyptus

When you mentioned the stamp/mark inside the boxes, I checked mine. And this is the result.

Only 2 of 6 has the "PC" mark inside the... Should I be worried?!?

Edit* of course I check both ends of the box.


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> PPCS has an order on the way, (no idea if it includes white accent disks tho) and we FINALLY have inventory in stock here in Texas for just about everything except MMRS--which we will add soon--so we can resupply our resellers much more quickly now. Hopefully =)


Thanks for letting me know! Luckily those accent disks are something that can easily be put in later. I'm so happy to see how much this thread has blown up and all of the awesome projects people are working on! It's so freaking awesome, makes me happy I decided to go with Monsoon and I'll never look back.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sorry to hear that man. Is it me or did the monitor make it unscathed?


negative. broken glass scratched and cut the hell out of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Make SURE you stay on the insurance company as one of the things they try to do to avoid paying is make the process so convoluted and time consuming people just give up. We had Hurricane Dolly roll right over the top of us--what a mess.


Did the hurricane damage your shop too, or just your house? I haven't asked this question yet, but I bet you will know. I had a lot of stuff damaged/destroyed that was all work stuff owned by the company. Does that go under the company insurance policy or my Home owners insurance? Like hydraulic cylinder off a skid loader I was repacking in the garage.

Luckily the guy who handles all the company's insurance on our skid loaders, dump trucks, etc. etc. is helping me out and acting as a proxy. I've already had 3 different things emailed to me to sign for the insurance company that I forwarded to him and told me to not sign it.

On the bright side, the even more over-the-top wall build I was kicking around for down the road is now a very real possibility.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> negative. broken glass scratched and cut the hell out of it.
> Did the hurricane damage your shop too, or just your house? I haven't asked this question yet, but I bet you will know. I had a lot of stuff damaged/destroyed that was all work stuff owned by the company. Does that go under the company insurance policy or my Home owners insurance? Like hydraulic cylinder off a skid loader I was repacking in the garage.
> 
> Luckily the guy who handles all the company's insurance on our skid loaders, dump trucks, etc. etc. is helping me out and acting as a proxy. I've already had 3 different things emailed to me to sign for the insurance company that I forwarded to him and told me to not sign it.
> 
> On the bright side, the even more over-the-top wall build I was kicking around for down the road is now a very real possibility.


When Dolly hit we had a combination business and home. It was a drive thru C store, (they are common in Texas) with a Head Shop and a nice big apartment on the second floor. We built the building ourselves so it didn't really sustain much damage itself but a building a few blocks away was ripped off it's foundation and hit our building on the second floor like a giant battering ram. Even that impact did very minor cosmetic damage, (I can REALLY build a building =) but it did break off a hose bib on a second floor balcony. We were unable to get to the building the next morning because of downed power lines and it ended up being 2 and a half days until we were let back in...and that hose bib broke off in the wall and had water pouring into the second floor at 60 PSI for that whole time.

The upstairs had 2 feet of standing water and the downstairs was about the same. Our giant walk in beer cooler with 8 glass doors per side was pretty much an aquarium lol. It was weird because the building was fine structurally so no real wind damage--which is what we had insurance for. The damage was caused by water so of course the insurance company tried to get out of paying.

My advice is get an attorney. Don't trust a friend to advise you. Insurance companies will use every dirty trick at their disposal to get out of paying. Don't sign ANYTHING. There is a LOT of emotional trauma after a loss like that and it is perfectly normal to be just reeling inside. Even the strongest willed smartest people make bad decisions at times like these which is what the attorney is for. Most people wait until they have a problem to get legal counsel. I have started to learn (finally) that smart people use it to avoid having a problem in the first place.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> When you mentioned the stamp/mark inside the boxes, I checked mine. And this is the result.
> 
> Only 2 of 6 has the "PC" mark inside the... Should I be worried?!?
> 
> Edit* of course I check both ends of the box.


Well...on the plus side, thanks to you we know your re-seller ran out of the old inventory since you seem to have bridged the old and new parts. Not much comfort to you I know.

If you haven't used the parts yet I would suggest replacing the acrylic collars just for piece of mind. You are in Sweden correct? I can have some drop shipped directly from China which will be a little cheaper for the shipping.

If you have already used them I would not worry about it too much because as dramatic as the issue sounded online...the failure rate was not quite 1% and in several of those instances the installation procedures were...call it less than perfect.

Either way I am happy to send out replacement lock collars if you want them. I also apologize for you getting caught up in the material switch. I did the transition as quickly and smoothly as I possibly could...


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> When Dolly hit we had a combination business and home. It was a drive thru C store, (they are common in Texas) with a Head Shop and a nice big apartment on the second floor. We built the building ourselves so it didn't really sustain much damage itself but a building a few blocks away was ripped off it's foundation and hit our building on the second floor like a giant battering ram. Even that impact did very minor cosmetic damage, (I can REALLY build a building =) but it did break off a hose bib on a second floor balcony. We were unable to get to the building the next morning because of downed power lines and it ended up being 2 and a half days until we were let back in...and that hose bib broke off in the wall and had water pouring into the second floor at 60 PSI for that whole time.
> 
> The upstairs had 2 feet of standing water and the downstairs was about the same. Our giant walk in beer cooler with 8 glass doors per side was pretty much an aquarium lol. It was weird because the building was fine structurally so no real wind damage--which is what we had insurance for. The damage was caused by water so of course the insurance company tried to get out of paying.
> 
> My advice is get an attorney. Don't trust a friend to advise you. Insurance companies will use every dirty trick at their disposal to get out of paying. Don't sign ANYTHING. There is a LOT of emotional trauma after a loss like that and it is perfectly normal to be just reeling inside. Even the strongest willed smartest people make bad decisions at times like these which is what the attorney is for. Most people wait until they have a problem to get legal counsel. I have started to learn (finally) that smart people use it to avoid having a problem in the first place.


ugh, I can't even imagine. Driving up and seeing your building standing tall and proud, then opening the door and having all that water everywhere. How the hell did the upper floor not collapse under that much weight?!? You really do know how to build a building









And yeah, I've already spoken to the lawyer we keep on retainer about it all and keeping him in the loop as well. The 3rd party agent is helping out like tomorrow coming to meet with me and the possessions adjuster to help. Packaging up my receipts properly, and stuff like that. It's just nice to have an independent person who also speaks insurance jargon to keep an eye on the process.

Anyway, back on topic!

My pump was still functioning properly (Swift Tech Dual DDC MCP35x2) and while leak testing, it defaults to max speed obviously. Dang thing was powerful enough to create a vortex on a 300mm reservoir and suck air into the loop. Y'all got any anti-cyclonic parts in the works? (actual question, not a pun btw.) Obviously I just unplugged one of the pumps and went about my business, but it did get me thinking.


----------



## BoxGods

The TRP parts now ship with an anti-vortex do-hicky included.

Kind of sucks because the post is a bit of a "downer" but I told myself a while back--at about page 80--if this thread hits 100 pages I would treat the first poster on the page to some free MMRS parts.

So congratulations to DNMock on $200 worth of free MMRS parts...seriously I feel sorta ****ty even posting a salutation considering the post is about your house getting wiped out by a tornado...but maybe it is a small silver lining in a giant pile of crap.

Not sure if this qualifies as irony...certainly as bitter-sweet. Anyway. No rush as I know life's a bit upside down for you right now. No expiration date. Shoot me a PM for details when you are back on an even keel.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The TRP parts now ship with an anti-vortex do-hicky included.
> 
> Kind of sucks because the post is a bit of a "downer" but I told myself a while back--at about page 80--if this thread hits 100 pages I would treat the first poster on the page to some free MMRS parts.
> 
> So congratulations to DNMock on $200 worth of free MMRS parts...seriously I feel sorta ****ty even posting a salutation considering the post is about your house getting wiped out by a tornado...but maybe it is a small silver lining in a giant pile of crap.
> 
> Not sure if this qualifies as irony...certainly as bitter-sweet. Anyway. No rush as I know life's a bit upside down for you right now. No expiration date. Shoot me a PM for details when you are back on an even keel.


Congrats DNMock, you deserve it!!


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The TRP parts now ship with an anti-vortex do-hicky included.


Would something like this need to be added onto the FDP if it were used in conjunction with a small acrylic lead into a pump? Not sure if the cyclone could flow up the pump with gravity forcing water through the FDP into the pump.

Congrats Dn!


----------



## eucalyptus

Well I can't even imagine how it is to be DNmock! I live here in safety Sweden.

Just glade you are alive, and hope you have somewhere to stay, and take care of your family and yourself!

God bless you, or may the force be with you!
















Hope to see you someday with a new beautiful house and a shining computer on the desk, guess that's the last thing on your mind though.


----------



## BoxGods

It is a bit hard to explain on the anti-vortex trident as there are two versions. One comes with the TRP part and uses screws to hold it down. I made the part connect with screws so that it was optional for those that do not want to use it, or that want to use the threaded holes in the TRP for other purposes--different types of anti-vortex devices or flow indicators or w/e.

The second version is almost identical but it removes the screws and is a press in part. It can press into any of the end caps or the coupler. It will come with the mating kit and also sell as a stand alone part for those that want to add it to a reservoir in different locations--your FDP question as an example.

I will post some pictures and a video covering the differences between the two parts when I have production parts in house.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Well I can't even imagine how it is to be DNmock! I live here in safety Sweden.
> 
> Just glade you are alive, and hope you have somewhere to stay, and take care of your family and yourself!
> 
> God bless you, or may the force be with you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope to see you someday with a new beautiful house and a shining computer on the desk, guess that's the last thing on your mind though.


I am actually very eager to see your part of the world. My wife and I plan to live on a boat when we retire and I am very much looking forward to spending a few summers cruising the Baltic and visiting Sweden, Germany, Finland, and Denmark. The industrial design ethos of that part of the world has always been an inspiration.


----------



## ruffhi

Errr - it is only page 10 for me. I have defaulted to 100 posts per page.

Congrats DNMock!


----------



## solidshark91493

Ha woah I didnt see my thread going this far. Congrats man.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Ha woah I didnt see my thread going this far. Congrats man.


Thanks for introducing it to us! I think we've kind of taken it over as an unofficial monsoon thread? lol

Gene, maybe you should think of getting i touch with a mod for approval of an official Monsoon thread? Then they can merge this with that one.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Thanks for introducing it to us! I think we've kind of taken it over as an unofficial monsoon thread? lol
> 
> Gene, maybe you should think of getting i touch with a mod for approval of an official Monsoon thread? Then they can merge this with that one.


Or he could make me a unofficial spokesman for him ;D
Always loved the monsoon products. Thought Id help get em out there as much as possible. Even though I know most here know the name already.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Ha woah I didnt see my thread going this far. Congrats man.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for introducing it to us! I think we've kind of taken it over as an unofficial monsoon thread? lol
> 
> Gene, maybe you should think of getting i touch with a mod for approval of an official Monsoon thread? Then they can merge this with that one.
Click to expand...

I 2nd an official Monsoon forum!


----------



## BoxGods

Wow...page 100 came and went pretty fast =)

Special thanks to SolidShark for starting the thread









Not sure about an "official" thread...I sort of like just hanging out in here and keeping it low key as it is the only forum I frequent these days because of time constraints...if there is an official thread here then I will get flack for not having one on xxx other forums.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Wow...page 100 came and went pretty fast =)
> 
> Special thanks to SolidShark for starting the thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure about an "official" thread...I sort of like just hanging out in here and keeping it low key as it is the only forum I frequent these days because of time constraints...if there is an official thread here then I will get flack for not having one on xxx other forums.


Then we can be like a not so secret Club









Question for the Trident, do you think that it is something I should add to the order to go inside of the bottom of the FDP which is connected by about 1/2" of acrylic into a D5 pump? I am not sure if I cyclone would form at the port or not due to the tube being there and 1st time wc


----------



## ruffhi

Q: I am planning on a Monsoon reservoir with three outlets on the bottom (EX-3P). All of the tubes will be disappearing through an internal wall but only one of them will be continuing in the loop ... the other two are dead ends. What is the best way to seal these dead ends?

Things that I have thought of include ...
- a 180° degree tube
- silcone the tubes closed
- attach *something* to the tube to close it

I can't use them as the drain port as they are no where near the bottom of my loop.

Any other suggestions? Any connectors that will do the job for me?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Then we can be like a not so secret Club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Question for the Trident, do you think that it is something I should add to the order to go inside of the bottom of the FDP which is connected by about 1/2" of acrylic into a D5 pump? I am not sure if I cyclone would form at the port or not due to the tube being there and 1st time wc


Not 100% clear on what you are describing. Is your configuration using the FDP on the bottom of the reservoir? Are you using a mating kit to add a coupler immediately after the FDP that will have the ports used for connecting to a pump?

The way to think of or visualize a vortex causing an issue is the scenario where a pump is below a column of water that is likely to have an air pocket on top of the reservoir. The vortex forms and if it can reach from the pumps inlet to that air pocket then the pump starts sucking in air which is obviously not good. As an example everyone would be familiar with think of a bathtub full of water and you pull the plug. Initially when the tub is full with 8" to 10" of water you might see maybe a very slight swirling motion on the surface which is no big deal. If you were to time how fast the water was draining at that point the rate would be consistent. As the level in the tub gets lower and the distance between the drain and the surface of the water (aka the depth of the water) decreases you might start to see a small vortex forming at the drain and slowly snaking around like a tornado. The drain rate would start to decrease a little at this point. As the depth decreased farther the vortex gets bigger and will eventually touch the surface--that is when that horrible draining "slurp" sound starts and the drain rate (flow rate in our example) really drops off because xxx amount of the available throughput volume is being taken up by air instead of water.

It is more of an issue in our cooling loops of course because in addition to performance loss running the pump dry can damage it.

My personal preference has always been to allow the water to spin in the reservoir but to bleed all the air out from the top so there is nothing to draw into the pump. I like this approach because the pump expends xxx amount of its potential accelerating the water and if I can return that energy to the reservoir efficiency is improved. The problem is bleeding all of the air out (and keeping it out) is a lot of effort and the shorter the tube height (or water depth) is the harder it gets. I originally designed the TRP without any anti-vortex provisions which was obviously optimistic (a mistake on my part).

When I was looking at adding vortex dampening I really did NOT want to go with a giant paddle or fill the reservoir with mesh because I would be losing most or all of that rotational energy being returned to the reservoir so I looked at how the vortex actually forms, where it physically starts, and how it maintains itself. and I noticed that it seemed to start 10mm to 12mm above the inlet which is where the trident now lives and does its thing. When you watch the little bubbles in the reservoir you can easily see that the water is still spinning in the reservoir but there is no vortex forming. It obviously is not spinning as fast but hopefully we are reclaiming some of that energy still.

Sorry for the book but if you have a better grasp of what is happening (and what we don't want to happen) it is easier to figure out your particular loop and reservoir configuration. Putting a trident into the FDP is not very effective if it is located at the top of the reservoir because of where the vortex forms. If you are using the FDP at the bottom of the reservoir with a coupler mated to it that feeds the pump I would recommend adding the trident to the coupler and not the FDP.

Whew.


----------



## xerythul

I can't think of anyone more coincidentally deserving right now than DNMock. Congrats to you on this win! Huge thanks to BoxGods as well for being so responsive here and taking such good care of all of us including this awesome prize.


----------



## BoxGods

There is one more scenario where having the trident mounted in the FDP would be advisable--and I think you mentioned this and I missed it at first. If you had the FDP mounted on the bottom of the reservoir and were using the center hole pointing straight down with a tube running from that directly into the inlet of a SAP (yeah the light bulb just went off on which build this is lol).

Yes I would suggest adding the press in trident to the FDP in that rare case--especially if the reservoir wwas under say 150mm long and you could not feed inlet water into an opposing inlet direction..


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Q: I am planning on a Monsoon reservoir with three outlets on the bottom (EX-3P). All of the tubes will be disappearing through an internal wall but only one of them will be continuing in the loop ... the other two are dead ends. What is the best way to seal these dead ends?
> 
> Things that I have thought of include ...
> - a 180° degree tube
> - silcone the tubes closed
> - attach *something* to the tube to close it
> 
> I can't use them as the drain port as they are no where near the bottom of my loop.
> 
> Any other suggestions? Any connectors that will do the job for me?


Two things. When you are thinking of a fill or drain ports location in your loop relative to its height--highest or lowest-- don't always think of that as a static location. Remember it is not really hard to flip a case on it's side or top for the rare times you are filling or draining a loop as this can often make the difference.

As for blocking the two "dummy" tubes...hard not to like your idea of using a 180 =)


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> When I was looking at adding vortex dampening I really did NOT want to go with a giant paddle or fill the reservoir with mesh because I would be losing most or all of that rotational energy being returned to the reservoir so I looked at how the vortex actually forms, where it physically starts, and how it maintains itself. and I noticed that it seemed to start 10mm to 12mm above the inlet which is where the trident now lives and does its thing.


Interesting stuff ... but what happens if you use a Monsoon MMRS Triple Port End Cap on the bottom of your res with one of those ports feeding the pump. Will the trident work in that situation?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Interesting stuff ... but what happens if you use a Monsoon MMRS Triple Port End Cap on the bottom of your res with one of those ports feeding the pump. Will the trident work in that situation?


There are two tridents. One screws on to the TRP part. The other is a press in variant that will fit into ANY end cap (or coupler) as they all have the same ID. So yes you can use it on an EC-3p as well.
As for whether or not it is needed...usually not. If the tube is a straight shot and really short I might add one just in case. Otherwise...not so much.


----------



## ausch

I am planning on having my return to one of the top end cap ports through a monsoon 90 degree rotary. Do you know if the end cap has enough threading for both the fitting on the outside and some extra for an internal downpipe like the bitspower aqua-pipe I to avoid splashing? Also do you make an equivalent downpipe or have any suggestions on return lines? I was considering waiting for the mating kit but given the loop it is easier to have it near the top.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The TRP parts now ship with an anti-vortex do-hicky included.
> 
> Kind of sucks because the post is a bit of a "downer" but I told myself a while back--at about page 80--if this thread hits 100 pages I would treat the first poster on the page to some free MMRS parts.
> 
> So congratulations to DNMock on $200 worth of free MMRS parts...seriously I feel sorta ****ty even posting a salutation considering the post is about your house getting wiped out by a tornado...but maybe it is a small silver lining in a giant pile of crap.
> 
> Not sure if this qualifies as irony...certainly as bitter-sweet. Anyway. No rush as I know life's a bit upside down for you right now. No expiration date. Shoot me a PM for details when you are back on an even keel.


Wow, not sure what to say about that. Thank you, that's very kind and generous of you. I feel bad though since you have already gone so far and beyond and been so kind to me and helping with my old, obtuse, desk build.

How about one of these instead:

1. Treat yourself and your employee's to lunch on my behalf.

2. Donate the difference in sale price to red cross (the only folks I saw being helpful), or another good organization.

3. Get to work on that desk build you were saying you wanted to do. The idea's I could steal from it would prove invaluable later this year/next year when I re-do mine bigger and better.

Now that's not to say I don't want or couldn't use it in the future, I absolutely can and will need them sometime in the near future. So I'm sure as heck not going to turn such a generous offer by any stretch.

At any rate, thanks for everything. I really do appreciate it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ausch*
> 
> I am planning on having my return to one of the top end cap ports through a monsoon 90 degree rotary. Do you know if the end cap has enough threading for both the fitting on the outside and some extra for an internal downpipe like the bitspower aqua-pipe I to avoid splashing? Also do you make an equivalent downpipe or have any suggestions on return lines? I was considering waiting for the mating kit but given the loop it is easier to have it near the top.


Would be close but might be possible...I have never used a down pipe--or needed one as I like to run a full reservoir--so not really familiar with them sorry.

The trident might work as a diffuser as incoming water can be kept from directly hitting the surface of water below in a partially full reservoir.


----------



## ruffhi

I just ordered a Monsoon reservoir - arriving Saturday. I will post some pictures.

While I am here ... i picked up a bunch of Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fittings [3/8" x 1/2" - Matte Black] - EFH-3812-6-MB while there were 50% off at ppcs. Which is the right 90° fitting for them? I think it is the Monsoon 90° Rotary Angle Fitting - 1/2" - MON-RO-90-12-MB - is that right?

And yes - I will be picking up some accent disks







.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey so I have a pan to use one of these in a very unique way, and was hoping that one of the parts could be adapted to my idea or that you have one that is what I need in the works.

My idea is to use a 6 inch tube in the center with couplers on either side. I will have the ports facing down and one side male to male connectors attached to fill-ports thus becoming my in and out and and stand. Most likely a good time to mention the reservoir will be horizontal on top of a bench case. the other side ports (the backside ones when looking from the front) will be LED caps that I will use washers to make flushed with the case for more stability. I seen you made a endcap to do what I am suggesting but as you said on that post its easily achievable with fittings







.

On the outside of the couplers will be 4 inch sections with end caps, making a total of 18inch long reservoir (assuming the caps are 1 inch? I assuming from looking at them and specs they are (while I am here can you confirm this?).

Now that you have a rundown on what I am trying to achieve I will present my problems.

1. The screw holes on the back of the couplers that will be the top in my idea (the bottoms of the other will be also visible in my build). I would like to know if your small pump mounting screws would suck into this far enough to make covers for the holes (Like the end caps have.) as this would be much more aesthetically appeasing then holes.

2. If they would or I could shorten them to work in that fashion a link to where I can get the extra screws would be great. Also a link to the screws for the tension rods or the size for both would also be great, as I would like different colored screws than rods, I know you said on the video that they will be available separately.

The closest I can find which I assume is said screws is the Mod My Toys screws, which do not give me any help as the screw lengths are not documented anywhere that I can find, for either the pump mount nor the tension rods.

3. Will you be creating a single side port end cap, (Like the d5 cap) or is the standalone D5 cap modifiable to become an end cap. My reasoning for this and you may hear this more from people that want a horizontal reservoir, (however I can think of many other reasons people would want this) if I mount it horizontally you have 2 options for me.

Option 1 would be to use a dual side port cap on one or both sides (it would not be symmetrical unless both had it, so both will have it), this will require 4 end caps for a fill port which is less than ideal.

Option 2 would be to use single port end caps and use 90 degree fittings, however in my bench case the reservoir will be the highest point in the loop (well GPU blocks may be a tad higher but you get what I am saying







). A fill port on a 90 degree angle the filling would come from the center of the reservoir not the top which would be far less than ideal for bleeding ect, if even possible to completely fill the reservoir at all.

I would also need to have 90 degree fittings on both sides for symmetry which honestly would just look and perform horridly. So really this isn't even an option leaving just option 1 as a valid one.

Ideally would be a end cap with only 1 side port that is centered, or one side port and 1 top port, I could then justify the top ports(side ports in my orientation with LED caps, as in my mounting I would the reservoir lower so your lighting system isn't going to work. Although centered isn't a necessity I'm just chalking it up to wish list ideal







.

4. Also while we are on the subject of wish list ideals and also another possible solution to my issue, if the D5 mounts are not able to have there pump inlet modded into a port. then making one that could be a blank of sorts would be awesome as well. This would help with symmetry as one side could actually have a d5 and the other have a fake d5 top so they look the same on the top/bottom or in my mounting side/side.

I do feel that is less important in a top/bottom mounting for most than in a side to side, however to some OCD people like me







it has to be symmetrical so if I cant have it on both sides (or top and bottom) I do not want it on either. I know you did show this idea on your video, however your way involved 2 pumps.

That would be theoretically fine in a horizontal mount that will utilize dual pumps (mine will) but that involves running dual pumps in parallel which is only beneficial to redundancy. That would honestly be a wasted pump as parallel pumps provide no flow rate benefit from last I recall, thus they should be in serial.

Sorry for the massive suggestions post I will end it here lol for now. Great Reservoir design idea by the way.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Hey so I have a pan to use one of these in a very unique way, and was hoping that one of the parts could be adapted to my idea or that you have one that is what I need in the works.
> 
> My idea is to use a 6 inch tube in the center with couplers on either side. I will have the ports facing down and one side male to male connectors attached to fill-ports thus becoming my in and out and and stand. Most likely a good time to mention the reservoir will be horizontal on top of a bench case. the other side ports (the backside ones when looking from the front) will be LED caps that I will use washers to make flushed with the case for more stability. I seen you made a endcap to do what I am suggesting but as you said on that post its easily achievable with fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> On the outside of the couplers will be 4 inch sections with end caps, making a total of 18inch long reservoir (assuming the caps are 1 inch? I assuming from looking at them and specs they are (while I am here can you confirm this?).
> 
> Now that you have a rundown on what I am trying to achieve I will present my problems.
> 
> 1. The screw holes on the back of the couplers that will be the top in my idea (the bottoms of the other will be also visible in my build). I would like to know if your small pump mounting screws would suck into this far enough to make covers for the holes (Like the end caps have.) as this would be much more aesthetically appeasing then holes.
> 
> 2. If they would or I could shorten them to work in that fashion a link to where I can get the extra screws would be great. Also a link to the screws for the tension rods or the size for both would also be great, as I would like different colored screws than rods, I know you said on the video that they will be available separately.
> 
> The closest I can find which I assume is said screws is the Mod My Toys screws, which do not give me any help as the screw lengths are not documented anywhere that I can find, for either the pump mount nor the tension rods.
> 
> 3. Will you be creating a single side port end cap, (Like the d5 cap) or is the standalone D5 cap modifiable to become an end cap. My reasoning for this and you may hear this more from people that want a horizontal reservoir, (however I can think of many other reasons people would want this) if I mount it horizontally you have 2 options for me.
> 
> Option 1 would be to use a dual side port cap on one or both sides (it would not be symmetrical unless both had it, so both will have it), this will require 4 end caps for a fill port which is less than ideal.
> 
> Option 2 would be to use single port end caps and use 90 degree fittings, however in my bench case the reservoir will be the highest point in the loop (well GPU blocks may be a tad higher but you get what I am saying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). A fill port on a 90 degree angle the filling would come from the center of the reservoir not the top which would be far less than ideal for bleeding ect, if even possible to completely fill the reservoir at all.
> 
> I would also need to have 90 degree fittings on both sides for symmetry which honestly would just look and perform horridly. So really this isn't even an option leaving just option 1 as a valid one.
> 
> Ideally would be a end cap with only 1 side port that is centered, or one side port and 1 top port, I could then justify the top ports(side ports in my orientation with LED caps, as in my mounting I would the reservoir lower so your lighting system isn't going to work. Although centered isn't a necessity I'm just chalking it up to wish list ideal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 4. Also while we are on the subject of wish list ideals and also another possible solution to my issue, if the D5 mounts are not able to have there pump inlet modded into a port. then making one that could be a blank of sorts would be awesome as well. This would help with symmetry as one side could actually have a d5 and the other have a fake d5 top so they look the same on the top/bottom or in my mounting side/side.
> 
> I do feel that is less important in a top/bottom mounting for most than in a side to side, however to some OCD people like me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it has to be symmetrical so if I cant have it on both sides (or top and bottom) I do not want it on either.
> 
> Sorry for the massive suggestions post I will end it here lol for now. Great Reservoir design idea by the way.


Can you do up a sketch of what you are wanting to do on MS paint or someething (doesn't need to be to scale as long as you have the numbers). If I am understanding this correctly the reservoir is going to sit on top of the desk exactly like I had mine. Since I've already done a build identical to what sounds to be like what you are planning, and I have quite a few spare parts laying around (damaged but still there) that I can probably actually do a full mock-up of what you are wanting so you can actually see it.

This was what I was rocking (a couple different versions anyway)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Cyber Locc

I can visualize it, but for you to be able to so you get what I am saying here you go







. You can make a mockup version if you want though that would be cool.

Here is a mockup albeit simple, on this image you cant see there is a port behind each of the coupler ports those will have leds plugging them and will be 2 more feet for the res making the total 4. The most basic Idea of what I want is simple I want a end cap with 1 side port instead of 2 so I dont have to cap 4 ports when I only need 1 (2 for symmetry plus will help with filling). as the fill ports need to be facing upwards not on the side.



To help a little more here is the case (well bench it isn't a case)



and an Idea of where it will be mounted for reference,


So for making a mockup version basically the 2 ports on the couplers will face one direction and the 2 ports on the end cap the complete opposite direction.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I can visualize it, but for you to be able to so you get what I am saying here you go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . You can make a mockup version if you want though that would be cool.
> 
> Here is a mockup albeit simple, on this image you cant see there is a port behind each of the coupler ports those will have leds plugging them and will be 2 more feet for the res making the total 4. The most basic Idea of what I want is simple I want a end cap with 1 side port instead of 2 so I dont have to cap 4 ports when I only need 1 (2 for symmetry plus will help with filling). as the fill ports need to be facing upwards not on the side.
> 
> 
> 
> To help a little more here is the case (well bench it isn't a case)
> 
> 
> 
> and an Idea of where it will be mounted for reference,
> 
> 
> So for making a mockup version basically the 2 ports on the couplers will face one direction and the 2 ports on the end cap the complete opposite direction.


Ahh, a bench build, not desk build. Same principle though. I got ya.



http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-single-port-end-cap-with-dual-side-ports-black.html

That's what you need.

Also, for mounting it, smaller zip ties will fit between the res and the tension rods, so you can hold it flush without having to have the mounting screws. The zip ties being run through some of the holes on the back side can hold it in place, keep it tight and never be seen.

For the pump mounting, I would suggest getting some screws with nice flat heads, that will sit flush with the case below the reservoir in black (just bring the screws up to Ace, or any local hardware store, and you should be able to find some that will sit flush against the case itself without the need for the little bracket sticking up and causing an aesthetics issue.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Ahh, a bench build, not desk build. Same principle though. I got ya.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-single-port-end-cap-with-dual-side-ports-black.html
> 
> That's what you need.


No thats exactly what I do not want,







the end caps will not be connected to the rads or anything at all actually they will just be floating. They will be floating with the ports facing up, if I go with what you linked I will have 4 ports that need plugs I only want 2 ports to cap not 4.

What I need is something like this


Except I want the outside to just be a solid cap or a port not a d5 mount top.

However I was just thinking about it and actually I would need the port centered to pull off what I want to do otherwise they will be lopsided (one port will be on 1 side lets say the front and the other the back). Even then its better than using 4 when I only need 1 or 2 (I think 2 would be good as a bleed screw and a fill screw.

Here is the thing this is part astetics and part me being cheap







, The stop plugs I am using are the color to match the res (blood red), however they are the higher thumbscrew ones by bits power there 8 dollars a piece, so on top of having 4 ports when I only need 1 I will spend 20-30 dollars to block ports I didn't need to begin with.

Another option would be a coupler with 3 ports instead of 2, so the coupler has its normal 2 ports but on the back side it has 1 single port in the center. I could then use solid end caps. I could also see this being beneficial to people that want to run there return line behind the motherboard tray.

I do see what you are saying using 1 of the 2 port couplers and one solid would give me the 2 ports I need however I would lose symmetry and that I am not prepared to do. I would rather have 4 then 2 one side and none on the other.


----------



## Jiryama

The have a solid endcap with dual side ports. They don't make a single port end cap to my knowledge.
Bottom row , second from the left - MMRS-SP-ZP


----------



## DNMock

OK, so what you are wanting is this:



right?

In that case, there is a solution too, but it's a pain in the butt.

Here is how you do it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1518955/build-log-socks-ultimate-water-desk/20#post_23143158

you will need to flip the case over have the two shut off valves, and a drill pump to SLOWLY pump the fluid into the loop. (it should be upside down, so the inlet and outlet valves are both the high points in the loop and hidden inside around the pump. It can be in any location in the loop but hidden below will keep it more aesthetically pleasing.) simply open both valves, slowly pump the coolant in while the other valve is going to a container of some sort. continue this process for a while until you are confident there isn't any air left in the loop then close both the shut offs and screw them back together. Open the valves back up and enjoy your loop.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> OK, so what you are wanting is this:
> 
> 
> 
> right?
> 
> In that case, there is a solution too, but it's a pain in the butt.
> 
> Here is how you do it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1518955/build-log-socks-ultimate-water-desk/20#post_23143158
> 
> you will need to flip the case over have the two shut off valves, and a drill pump to SLOWLY pump the fluid into the loop. (it should be upside down, so the inlet and outlet valves are both the high points in the loop and hidden inside around the pump. It can be in any location in the loop but hidden below will keep it more aesthetically pleasing.) simply open both valves, slowly pump the coolant in while the other valve is going to a container of some sort. continue this process for a while until you are confident there isn't any air left in the loop then close both the shut offs and screw them back together. Open the valves back up and enjoy your loop.


One day, using this photo, I will figure out how to order a reservoir.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> The have a solid endcap with dual side ports. They don't make a single port end cap to my knowledge.
> Bottom row , second from the left -
> MMRS-SP-ZP


Ya I know thats kinda what I am saying though, I am basically asking if there is any plans to make one with one side port. or if the D% one could be modded into a single side port option. I do not want any top port that would be solid (in the d5 case I would fill it with an led so it be okayish) My gripe is I need only 1 side port.

Its like that with a lot of reservoirs though. The EK is the same way, but like boxmods says in his videos about how they dont cater to us lol thats true but my niggle is the same thing happens here with this case.

The thing is in a typical loop you have a vertically mounted reservoir, the water goes from the bottom port to the pump. Then you need a return line which ideally is on the bottom or the top side (so the gpus or cpu line feeds straight into it). Okay in that setup you can justify the need for a bottom center port, and either 1 bottom side port, or 1 top side port and a top center port.

Now let us look at the ways to use 2 ports, on the top and bottom.

1. one side port is return line for the gpu, 1 side port feeds into a 90 to the pump. *Verdict: Inefficient*, Your putting a 90 before the pump inlet and that is generally a bad idea, especially when it can be avoided which in this case it can, use the bottom center port to feed the pump.

2. You use 1 top side port for return from the CPU, Rad, Whatever, the other top side port is used with a 90 for a fill port. *Verdict: Inefficient* I have personally sued a fill port with a design like this and it is very hard to fill as bubbles form in the 90 as the water fills, while it isnt as bad as 1 I would still advise against it if it can be avoided. Guess what it can, use the top port for your fill line port. (this assumes a dedicated fill port mounted in the case)

3. You use 1 side port as a return and 1 as a fill port using a long tube to a funnel outside the case. *Verdict: Efficient* This is the only case I can think of that will efficiently use more than 1 side port. However this method of filling is IMO inefficient in itself, overfilling using this method is very easy and hard to deal with afterwords and most always results in spilled water.

So why do all the reservoirs makers fill the need to force feed us 4 ports instead of 2? there is very few if any use cases that those 4 ports are actually needed. I think its a conspiracy to sell us 8 dollar plug stops to fill the ports we do not even need







.

That is why I asked and suggested to monsoon to make a version with only 1 side port in the center and stop force feeding us 16 billion ports when we only use 2.

/rant over


----------



## ruffhi

You could stick a silver thingo in the 2nd port to help keep the algae down. Then you only have 15,999,999,999 ports to block









Edit: Initially off by a factor of 1,000.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> OK, so what you are wanting is this:
> 
> 
> 
> right?
> 
> In that case, there is a solution too, but it's a pain in the butt.
> 
> Here is how you do it: http://www.overclock.net/t/1518955/build-log-socks-ultimate-water-desk/20#post_23143158
> 
> you will need to flip the case over have the two shut off valves, and a drill pump to SLOWLY pump the fluid into the loop. (it should be upside down, so the inlet and outlet valves are both the high points in the loop and hidden inside around the pump. It can be in any location in the loop but hidden below will keep it more aesthetically pleasing.) simply open both valves, slowly pump the coolant in while the other valve is going to a container of some sort. continue this process for a while until you are confident there isn't any air left in the loop then close both the shut offs and screw them back together. Open the valves back up and enjoy your loop.


Not quite, I want that with 1 port on the side not 2 not 3 just 1 port on the side







. I get your way of filling and that would be semi okay if this wasn't a test bench and the loop wasn't going to be filled and drained every few weeks. It is a test bench not my 24/7 rig, it wont be a fill and done type situation.

When it is fully complete it will be on the very top of a wire shelve unit with casters, this shelf will have a 1260 rad on the shelf below it (slightly below it) that will have QDC hooks to this loop. That will have another shelf slightly below it for small storage stuff (Pots, Insulation, other various subzero stuff) then another shelf with a custom built waterchiller underneath of that and its tubes running up the poles and dropped in a bucket rack attached to the rad shelf.

Then another shelf on the bottom(a basket shelf) with torches, thermoses, a few liters of isopropyl, scoops, big insulation pads ect.

Basically all said and done it will be an extreme benching rack, that is fully equipped to cool with a regular loop, a subzero chilled loop, LN2 and DICE. all one 1 nice compact shelf unit on wheels. There will also be a slide out keyboard rack and monitor mounted a few feet above the top to the shelves. It will be 100% self contained bench-marking setup on wheels







.


----------



## DNMock

LOL, I get exactly what you are saying. The extra ports do serve a purpose though, as you can always just put a plug in an unused port, but without specialty equipment you can't just drill a 2nd port if you need one. The build you are doing today may only require 1 port, but what if the next build requires two? Then you have to buy an entire new end cap instead of just taking the plug out. Serves the purposes of both needs without the need and cost to design and fabricate two separate parts that would be competing against each other. Just makes no sense in the grand scheme of things.

You could always use the end caps with no side ports and a single port on the ends and just turn the system on it's side to fill/drain it. Other than that, making one custom (pricey) or just take your OCD meds and deal with having a couple plugs









You could also just drill a small hole and make a custom little filling tool and plug for it in the end cap.

I did something similar to that as well.

It's a ghetto version, on a dual bay reservoir (rotated on it's side) but you get the gist of it I'm sure:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Jiryama

On mobile device so don't have a full response right now. But using this as a test bench you could put a thermostat in the second port and a QDC on the other since you will be removing very often. It is just a test bench so it doesn't have to be a complete work of art so having a QDC won't make it too much uglier.

Gene would have to verify this but can't you just use the pump end cap with 1 single plug on the side and the top to fill?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> LOL, I get exactly what you are saying. The extra ports do serve a purpose though, as you can always just put a plug in an unused port, but without specialty equipment you can't just drill a 2nd port if you need one. The build you are doing today may only require 1 port, but what if the next build requires two? Then you have to buy an entire new end cap instead of just taking the plug out. Serves the purposes of both needs without the need and cost to design and fabricate two separate parts that would be competing against each other. Just makes no sense in the grand scheme of things.
> 
> You could always use the end caps with no side ports and a single port on the ends and just turn the system on it's side to fill/drain it. Other than that, making one custom (pricey) or just take your OCD meds and deal with having a couple plugs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also just drill a small hole and make a custom little filling tool and plug for it in the end cap.
> 
> I did something similar to that as well.
> 
> It's a ghetto version, on a dual bay reservoir (rotated on it's side) but you get the gist of it I'm sure:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That is my point though, I wont, I wont even need 2 side ports I have yet to see a single build utilize 2 of them side ports. Monsoon isn't the only one with side ports and pretty much all of them use 2 and no one ever uses 2 ever. Actually I have seen a few and they follow my list from before and end up with a horribly inefficient setup like 3 90s between the reservoir and the pump.

Give me 1 example where you would use 2 ports on the side of the bottom? 1 efficient example. I am not saying they should not offer an option with 2 ports, they should be there should also be an option to have only one. Boxmods proves my point even more so in his video, he even states its cool to be able to aim the ports to the left because thats where you want to connect to. And hes right but I do not need 4 tubes going that way lol.

I am not picking on Monsoon I love this reservoir I love the idea of it and the follow through, however the entire point here is to be modular to get what you need, well 90% of people and 90% of builds do not need 2 side ports they need 1. So why force 2 down your throat, Isn't that the entire point of this reservoir to solve the forcing down your throat issue? Everyone else forces 2 side ports down our throat and look around and those builds and there 3 caps.
an
You are right it is harder to drill an extra port than cap one, but with a modular system as this is, and with a cap already being made (for a pump) that simply could just be altered slightly to do what I suggest. Why is everyone acting like it has to be cut in stone? Why can they only offer no ports or 2 ports, is there a rule I do not know about that says you cant offer a 1 side port option and a dual side port option? The 2 ports is bad design and unnecessary, it was unnecessary when EK did it, it was unnecessary when Bitspower did it, and it still is when Monsoon does it. With all of them the problem is easily fixed put out a top cap with 1 port on the side.

I also want to mention you saying "but what if the next build requires two?" well funny you say that I have 3 reservoirs that have 2 side ports and they have been through many changes in loops and design. Different pump mounting ECT and never in that time have I ever ever used 2 EVER. Nor have I have ever seen one used in a efficient way, someone could say "Looks" well I do not know how a 90 degree angle doing a job you could have done straight looks better but okay.

Also its not a couple its 4, 4 is a lot so is the 3 I use in each of my 2 EK reservoirs. That is 6 plugs across 2 reservoirs to plug holes I will never need. Its ridiculous it looks stupid and completely unnecessary.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> On mobile device so don't have a full response right now. But using this as a test bench you could put a thermostat in the second port and a QDC on the other since you will be removing very often. It is just a test bench so it doesn't have to be a complete work of art so having a QDC won't make it too much uglier.
> 
> Gene would have to verify this but can't you just use the pump end cap with 1 single plug on the side and the top to fill?


Well it is going to be a work of art







this "Bench" Complete is going to cost more than my main rigs case/cooling as it will house 3-4k in exotic cooling equipment.

The bench is also going to have blood splatter paint, as well as logos, blood splatter on the shelving unit and other components, it will have a lot of QDCs but good looking ones.

Thats mainly why I care so much about it, is this case mod will be a "Work of Art" in its own right without a motherboard even installed. All tubes will be ran through pass throughs ect. This isnt a Slap on a piece of hardware for testing if it works bench, this will be an Extreme Bench marking massive bench. If it was just a throw around ugly bench I wouldn't even be buying this reservoir for it, The reservoir is the highlight of this piece of art. I will be doing other mods (maybe some fluid mods as well) to make this reservoir a Gigantic Blood Bank, full of lots of blood as it sucks the life from my components.

And it will be horror themed







and its name (and there will be logos) Will be The Torture Rack, Although I will do the name justice unlike DD did.

Enough about my build though as this thread is about MMRS, not my build.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> -snip-


I get what you are saying, I'm not disagreeing with you. Unfortunately, it is what it is. Since you really wanna make this a real work of art, just ask Gene to craft you a one-off piece. It will be a little expensive, but there's a good chance he will make it for ya.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I get what you are saying, I'm not disagreeing with you. Unfortunately, it is what it is. Since you really wanna make this a real work of art, just ask Gene to craft you a one-off piece. It will be a little expensive, but there's a good chance he will make it for ya.


I might do that depending on the price of course







. Just figured I would throw the suggestion out for a single single side port model. As I can guarantee I wouldn't be the only one that wanted one.

@BoxGods If thats something you guys can do, shoot me a quote, Also if you could do 2 couplers without the mounting holes while we are at it. The end caps without mounting holes as well.

by mounting holes I mean the ones for the legs.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well it is going to be a work of art smile.gif this "Bench" Complete is going to cost more than my main rigs case/cooling as it will house 3-4k in exotic cooling equipment.
> 
> The bench is also going to have blood splatter paint, as well as logos, blood splatter on the shelving unit and other components, it will have a lot of QDCs but good looking ones.
> 
> Thats mainly why I care so much about it, is this case mod will be a "Work of Art" in its own right without a motherboard even installed. All tubes will be ran through pass throughs ect. This isnt a Slap on a piece of hardware for testing if it works bench, this will be an Extreme Bench marking massive bench. If it was just a throw around ugly bench I wouldn't even be buying this reservoir for it, The reservoir is the highlight of this piece of art. I will be doing other mods (maybe some fluid mods as well) to make this reservoir a Gigantic Blood Bank, full of lots of blood as it sucks the life from my components.


Meant no insult, I think that is great that you are placing so much attention to the test bench. Kind of proves my point of you could use a thermostat for water temps in the reservoir unless you have an inline stats somewhere. If you have some really nice looking QDCs and the reservoir is the front part of the bench then why not just put the QDC closest to you and a plug behind it where it is over shadowed by the QDC. Just a thought.

As like Dn said though, as Gene if he can make you a one off in an PM or something. He is very good with working with people and who knows maybe others will see it and create a demand for it! ? there will be a build log for this correct?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Meant no insult, I think that is great that you are placing so much attention to the test bench. Kind of proves my point of you could use a thermostat for water temps in the reservoir unless you have an inline stats somewhere. If you have some really nice looking QDCs and the reservoir is the front part of the bench then why not just put the QDC closest to you and a plug behind it where it is over shadowed by the QDC. Just a thought.
> 
> As like Dn said though, as Gene if he can make you a one off in an PM or something. He is very good with working with people and who knows maybe others will see it and create a demand for it! ? there will be a build log for this correct?


Ya kinda in stages, I will be starting the main bench later this month or next, as I need to get my rig going while I get my STH10 done for moving it into. So basically I will start a log and the bench part going and mostly done. Then I will take a break for a few months, work on the CL (its a big build as well, 2 tone with metal tubing) and then return for the Bench with the rest of it. The A/C conversion to Water chiller ect.







. Althoguht that may change I may get so hooked on the bench that I finish it first only time will tell







.

I don't really know what you mean by QDC in front, Check out my earlier pic.

The res will have couplers that actually carry water through the loop those couplers will have there ports going down into the bench (they will be what holds the res up it will not have the monsoon feet). Inside the bench there will be acrylic going from the pass throughs (that the couplers are attached too) will be 90s going to acrylic tube to the 360 rads.

In the back there will be 2 pass throughs. these will attach to the bottom ports of the rads. One will be acrylic tube, the other will be fittings as there will be 2 T blocks with a valve inbetween. if this valve is on the water will flow right through to passtrough, if its off they will go through QDCs on the Ts that ties off to the 1260 rad. On the top the pass throughs will have QDCs, one of which will go to another QDC (that will be for CPU or Board depending) I will then have another QDC for the other CPU/Board port then one for the GPU/GPUS and back to the other pass throughs QDC. Also most likely a few different tube lengths with QDCs for differing hardware.

All the top tube (flex) will be Tygon A60 so it will last without replacement without plasticizers ect, and will have Red anti Kink coils







(that I will probably dye myself to match). I will put a water temp gauge however it will be elsewhere in the loop. the top 4 ports of the reservoir will only be for filling/bleeding.


----------



## Mystriss

Just FYI, you're going to have mounting holes on the "top" of your bench res couplers:


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Just FYI, you're going to have mounting holes on the "top" of your bench res couplers:


Ya I know sadly







thats why I asked him if screws could fill those gaps or if I could get one ofs without those holes.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya I know sadly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats why I asked him if screws could fill those gaps or if I could get one ofs without those holes.


I doubt there'd be any reason to make many without the holes due to mounting issues... However, if you wanted to get into it, someone a while back in the thread had painted all their couplers white (turned out nice.) You could fill the holes in and then paint the couplers, and if you used like plasti-dip or armor-all it'd come close to the production look (just make sure you don't paint in the tracks where the gasket goes heh.) I'm pondering doing that myself as I'll have down-facing ports as well.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I doubt there'd be any reason to make many without the holes due to mounting issues... However, if you wanted to get into it, someone a while back in the thread had painted all their couplers white (turned out nice.) You could fill the holes in and then paint the couplers, and if you used like plasti-dip or armor-all it'd come close to the production look (just make sure you don't paint in the tracks where the gasket goes heh.) I'm pondering doing that myself as I'll have down-facing ports as well.


No there wouldn't be a reason to, that's why I said a one of







However it should be fairly easy as the holes are thread so there not cast like that it would be easy to just not drill out the holes. Well fairly easy I would assume it would just involve pulling it from the machine line earlier but IDK.


----------



## BoxGods

The issue with a single side port that is centered is the tension rod in that location. You can't make a single centered port without hitting the screw for the tension rods. From what you are describing you wouldn't want a single offset port either as one would be towards the back on one of the reservoir and one would be towards the front on the other end of the reservoir. That would require making a left and right version. At $5,000 + a mold. And I can only imagine trying to get the resellers to stock them.

I would probably use FDP parts on the end which gives you the symmetry you want. Then as Jiryama suggested the case can be rotated over on it's side for fill / drain operations. If you visualize the fill and drain process it is actually easier and more efficient that way anyway...

And it looks pretty bad A$$ =)


----------



## BoxGods

I am going as fast as I can on the Sketch Up models also. I am hoping to have them done next week--number of daily fires not withstanding.

Then you will be able to tinker in 3D space very easily.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Just FYI, you're going to have mounting holes on the "top" of your bench res couplers:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I know sadly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thats why I asked him if screws could fill those gaps or if I could get one ofs without those holes.
Click to expand...

Looking at the mounting points on that collar, do we really need more holes? Cause if the mounting holes are squarely between 2 of the rod spaces, the collar can be rotated to proper alignment prior to inserting the rods. Of course that's not taking into account end caps or Pump mounts.









Whelp, looks like I was multi-ninja'ed.














lol

~Ceadder


----------



## eucalyptus

I am so frustrated, and sad right now!

I did just complete on of my loops.

I have installed every single piece as the instructions says and have been very very careful with everything.

Didn't need to do more than drop a deciliter water in it, without pump running, and it starts to drop water EVERYWHERE! Looks more like a stupid super mega ultra 6500 usd expensive fountain than a waterloop






























What should I do now?!?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am so frustrated, and sad right now!
> 
> I did just complete on of my loops.
> 
> I have installed every single piece as the instructions says and have been very very careful with everything.
> 
> Didn't need to do more than drop a deciliter water in it, without pump running, and it starts to drop water EVERYWHERE! Looks more like a stupid super mega ultra 6500 usd expensive fountain than a waterloop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What should I do now?!?


Are saying the mmrs res leaked?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am so frustrated, and sad right now!
> 
> I did just complete on of my loops.
> 
> I have installed every single piece as the instructions says and have been very very careful with everything.
> 
> Didn't need to do more than drop a deciliter water in it, without pump running, and it starts to drop water EVERYWHERE! Looks more like a stupid super mega ultra 6500 usd expensive fountain than a waterloop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What should I do now?!?


Start checking fittings also check fittings where they thread in. Check that you have anything with a o ring tightened right and all o rings and clean and seated right.

Had a problem with my MMRS d5 pump housing where some how i cut the o ring and it just ran water out. Dont jump around start at one spot and go in a line back to starting point so you dont forget anything.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Are saying the mmrs res leaked?


No, the Monsoon 13/10 hardline fittings for acrylic tube.

Every single one, 36 pieces, is leaking through the acrylic lock collars... Unbelievable!

It's dropping everywhere... Got my motherboard floating in water - yeah, that's a 6500 usd throwed in the water - literally speaking...


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> No, the Monsoon 13/10 hardline fittings for acrylic tube.
> 
> Every single one, 36 pieces, is leaking through the acrylic lock collars... Unbelievable!
> 
> It's dropping everywhere... Got my motherboard floating in water - yeah, that's a 6500 usd throwed in the water - literally speaking...


I am sorry i have no idea. You need to get ahold of BoxGods or someone that dose hardline FAST !!!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> I am sorry i have no idea. You need to get ahold of BoxGods or someone that dose hardline FAST !!!


Yes, I do really hope Gene (Boxgoods) sees this and comes and resque me, otherwise I don't know what to do!


----------



## ruffhi

Eek ... that doesn't sound good. Here is probably the first few of the flood of stupid questions that you will get ...

1) Did you glue the lock collars on to the acrylic tubes?
2) Did the glue go all the way around the lock collars?
3) Did you U/V seal them?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The issue with a single side port that is centered is the tension rod in that location. You can't make a single centered port without hitting the screw for the tension rods. From what you are describing you wouldn't want a single offset port either as one would be towards the back on one of the reservoir and one would be towards the front on the other end of the reservoir. That would require making a left and right version. At $5,000 + a mold. And I can only imagine trying to get the resellers to stock them.
> 
> I would probably use FDP parts on the end which gives you the symmetry you want. Then as Jiryama suggested the case can be rotated over on it's side for fill / drain operations. If you visualize the fill and drain process it is actually easier and more efficient that way anyway...
> 
> And it looks pretty bad A$$ =)


How thick do the walls need to be for the tension rods and screws to maintain their integrity?

There's no rule that says all fill ports must be G 1/4" threaded and I wouldn't think it would be that hard to take a normal non-ported end cap and getting a oblong 3/8th in slit machined into it.

Basically machining a slice to fit a piece like this to act as the plug: 

If that would be possible without damaging the integrity of the cap itself, he could just do that and problem solved. Then just use a hand pump and a small hose (kind of like the water lines used by a fridge that has a water dispenser in it) and good to go.

I wouldn't suggest you do that though since he will need to find the plug first so he can take the plug and the end cap to have a machine shop make the cut to match the plug he chooses, but the theory seems sound in my head at least


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Eek ... that doesn't sound good. Here is probably the first few of the flood of stupid questions that you will get ...
> 
> 1) Did you glue the lock collars on to the acrylic tubes?
> 2) Did the glue go all the way around the lock collars?
> 3) Did you U/V seal them?


1. Yes
2. Yes
3. Yes

I followed the instructions from Boxgoods video on youtube, and a logical sense which says this is the way.

I did it all correct. But somehow the water, without and pressure or pumps on, wants to penetrate through the lock collars.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> 1. Yes
> 2. Yes
> 3. Yes
> 
> I followed the instructions from Boxgoods video on youtube, and a logical sense which says this is the way.
> 
> I did it all correct. But somehow the water, without and pressure or pumps on, wants to penetrate through the lock collars.


First of all don't panic as it is likely some simple issue and getting water on stuff--your motherboard for example--does not instantly ruin it. Obviously do not turn it on until you have dried everything off and figured out why you have a leak but again...no need to get upset.

This will seem silly I know but did you remember to put the seals in? To have water pouring out that fast looks a lot like you either forgot to include the seals when you installed the fittings or have installed something incorrectly.

Please email me so we can talk at a faster pace and get you sorted out.

****EDIT****

If you are in Sweden (GMT+1) I will try to be awake late tonight my time (GMT - 6) to see if we can figure out what is going on with your install.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> No, the Monsoon 13/10 hardline fittings for acrylic tube.
> 
> Every single one, 36 pieces, is leaking through the acrylic lock collars... Unbelievable!
> 
> It's dropping everywhere... Got my motherboard floating in water - yeah, that's a 6500 usd throwed in the water - literally speaking...


There was an issue with the acrylic lock collars a year or so ago, they were all destroyed and replaced with carbide lock collars. Were you using the older ones or the newer lock collars?

edit: nvm, that is flowing, not a drip from a cracked lock collar.

And yeah, don't panic on the components. Take them all out, hit them with compressed air, and clean everything that got wet with some 90% alcohol and a Q-tip. Let it sit for 24 hours before you fire it up. I've gotten Motherboards, Ram, GPU's etc. etc. wet in the past, but as long as you are fairly prompt in getting it aired and cleaned, you shouldn't suffer any corrosion damage.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> There was an issue with the acrylic lock collars a year or so ago, they were all destroyed and replaced with carbide lock collars. Were you using the older ones or the newer lock collars?


Even if he had an old collar with a crack water would not pour out like that. Even under pressure there would only be a few drops (3 or 4) per minute.


----------



## eucalyptus

Yes, it's not even a drop every 10 seconds, it's running out of the fitting. And it's not ONE fitting, it's all of them









I am frustrated but also very very confused because I can't figure it out HOW it's happening and not WHY.


----------



## BoxGods

First...no need to be frustrated as you will get it sorted. Look at it like any other engineering issue and fall back on the basics. Observation.

Take some of the loops apart and make sure you have the seals in correctly. Make sure they are not damaged. Look for cracks in the lock collars since you have some of the old acrylic ones--though again you would not get water pouring out like that even if the collars were not glued on. Something is not seated. Either the flat seals or the G 1/4 O rings.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The issue with a single side port that is centered is the tension rod in that location. You can't make a single centered port without hitting the screw for the tension rods. From what you are describing you wouldn't want a single offset port either as one would be towards the back on one of the reservoir and one would be towards the front on the other end of the reservoir. That would require making a left and right version. At $5,000 + a mold. And I can only imagine trying to get the resellers to stock them.
> 
> I would probably use FDP parts on the end which gives you the symmetry you want. Then as Jiryama suggested the case can be rotated over on it's side for fill / drain operations. If you visualize the fill and drain process it is actually easier and more efficient that way anyway...
> 
> And it looks pretty bad A$$ =)


The thing with jiryanas Idea is that the Bench will be permanently mounted to a 5 foot tall wire shelf, with about 500 lbs of watercooling stuff, a Waterchiller, A phase change system ect. Ya flipping the case that aint happening







. I mean if I was filling it 1 time every year than all the stuff could taken off and and the case flipped, but a as bench rig that I will take rigs in and out of all the time ya that isn't practical at all.

I guess I will just have to go with the 4 fill ports.


----------



## DaClownie

First thing I can think of is it doesn't sound like it's the right size tubing. Are you using Monsoon tubing with the fittings?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> First thing I can think of is it doesn't sound like it's the right size tubing. Are you using Monsoon tubing with the fittings?


Of course, I am not stupid!







I know no other brand then Monsoon fits the lock collars.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> The thing with jiryanas Idea is that the Bench will be permanently mounted to a 5 foot tall wire shelf, with about 500 lbs of watercooling stuff, a Waterchiller, A phase change system ect. Ya flipping the case that aint happening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I mean if I was filling it 1 time every year than all the stuff could taken off and and the case flipped, but a as bench rig that I will take rigs in and out of all the time ya that isn't practical at all.
> 
> I guess I will just have to go with the 4 fill ports.


I have quite a few test benches...been flipping them for years. Until you actually try it you just won't know how easy it is. The fact that you have to fill and drain it often is what makes it work better because you tip it over with the drain hanging off your desk or shelf and have a bucket under it on the floor. Remove the plug and it drains FAST and fully. Plug back in and fill from the top and it fills quickly and fully.

Just so you don't think I am fibbing about test benches:

http://www.boxgods.com/dept/modding/index.php?Action=Article&ID=188

http://www.boxgods.com/dept/modding/index.php?Action=Article&ID=221

I have tested a LOT of hardware over the years =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Of course, I am not stupid!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know no other brand then Monsoon fits the lock collars.


Actually any tube with the correct OD will work =)

He was just trying to help.


----------



## eucalyptus

Okay, took it apart. This one as you can see in the pictures are the ones that the water literally is flowing from in the video.

And it seems like the water somehow gets through the lock collar, through the glue and out.

I have tighten everything. It's not leaking between fitting/o-ring and the adapters.

And all the flat o-rings between lock collar and fitting is all fine, double checked.

And to spare you the idea of that I glued them wrong... I did as I am supposed to? Flat endings on the tubing and a lot of glue to make sure it hits everywhere and cover the whole area.

Edit* no cracks what so ever on any collar! I don't even run the pump. The water clearly just flow with the gravity, I do wonder what could happen if a full powered D5 was turned on, guess the collars would blow up.


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## eucalyptus

I am sorry if I was rude! Not my intension, not at all, and hope you understand.


----------



## eucalyptus

And thanks Gene, I do really hope we can solve this, but to be honest it doesn't look good!


----------



## BoxGods

Wait...why is the green O ring on the rotary mashed out beyond the base of the barb? There is a channel UNDER that barb/base where the O ring is seated. You should not be able to see the O ring like that.

Are these the rotaries you machined out to be T's? The fitting in the second picture has like a 1mm gap between the compression ring and the rotary so it looks like the compression ring is not screwed all the way down. If the compression ring does not drive the lock collar into the seal...can't expect there to BE a seal. Also you have a flat seal in the channel (correct) in the 2nd image but a round O ring in the channel in the 3rd image (incorrect.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have quite a few test benches...been flipping them for years. Until you actually try it you just won't know how easy it is. The fact that you have to fill and drain it often is what makes it work better because you tip it over with the drain hanging off your desk or shelf and have a bucket under it on the floor. Remove the plug and it drains FAST and fully. Plug back in and fill from the top and it fills quickly and fully.
> 
> Just so you don't think I am fibbing about test benches:
> 
> http://www.boxgods.com/dept/modding/index.php?Action=Article&ID=188
> 
> http://www.boxgods.com/dept/modding/index.php?Action=Article&ID=221
> 
> I have tested a LOT of hardware over the years =)


Okay but you are missing the point, This bench is going to be welded to a wire frame shelf that will stand 5 feet tall and have a ton of stuff on it. It is not a pick it up and move it test bench its a permanently mounted huge bench station.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Okay but you are missing the point, This bench is going to be welded to a wire frame shelf that will stand 5 feet tall and have a ton of stuff on it. It is not a pick it up and move it test bench its a permanently mounted huge bench station.


OK. You may just need to spring for a custom one off reservoir then =(


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Wait...why is the green O ring on the rotary mashed out beyond the base of the barb? There is a channel UNDER that barb/base where the O ring is seated. You should not be able to see the O ring like that.
> 
> Are these the rotaries you machined out to be T's? The fitting in the second picture has like a 1mm gap between the compression ring and the rotary so it looks like the compression ring is not screwed all the way down. If the compression ring does not drive the lock collar into the seal...can't expect there to BE a seal. Also you have a flat seal in the channel (correct) in the 2nd image but a round O ring in the channel in the 3rd image (incorrect.


Okay, to clear things out









Yes, these are my T's but my drilled hole is the hole peaking down. The original one is the one peaking upwards - the one whose leaking.

I have tighten it down so hard as it goes, so I don't know why it smash out.

And again, my hole is the lower one, not the upper one


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay, to clear things out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, these are my T's but my drilled hole is the hole peaking down. The original one is the one peaking upwards - the one whose leaking.
> 
> I have tighten it down so hard as it goes, so I don't know why it smash out.
> 
> And again, my hole is the lower one, not the upper one


Sorry, I misunderstood...when you said they were ALL leaking I thought you meant all the fittings were leaking.

Not sure what is going on on those rotaries...but you simply should not be able to see the O rings under the barb / bases like that. You also have the O ring in the leaking one and not the flat seal.


----------



## eucalyptus

I have done it following to this picture


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sorry, I misunderstood...when you said they were ALL leaking I thought you meant all the fittings were leaking.
> 
> Not sure what is going on on those rotaries...but you simply should not be able to see the O rings under the barb / bases like that. You also have the O ring in the leaking one and not the flat seal.


It's a flat one, just camera that doesn't catch it









And all of them, well I tested out the other loop, and maybe a total between both loops around 12-14 leaks - that's pretty much....

But yes, I have no idea why it smash out between barb and rotary


----------



## BoxGods

That is an O ring in the 4th picture not a flat seal. And you should not be able to see the O ring UNDER the base. Again there is a channel there for retaining the O rings. If that O ring has nothing to seat against there will be no seal. Having the O ring splay out like that and trying to make the seal between the rotary and basically the threads of the barb/base...it will never seal.


----------



## DNMock

is the pipe sitting flush on the on the O-ring before applying the lock collar, or did you have to apply some force to get the pipe to align properly when screwing the collar down? If it's not flush properly prior to screwing it down, the force will be uneven, leaving a small gap unsealed.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That is an O ring in the 4th picture not a flat seal. And you should not be able to see the O ring UNDER the base. Again there is a channel there for retaining the O rings. If that O ring has nothing to seat against there will be no seal. Having the O ring splay out like that and trying to make the seal between the rotary and basically the threads of the barb/base...it will never seal.


Flat o-ring.

And as you can see between barb and rotary a green Monsoon o-ring, which is being smashed as pictures can tell.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> is the pipe sitting flush on the on the O-ring before applying the lock collar, or did you have to apply some force to get the pipe to align properly when screwing the collar down? If it's not flush properly prior to screwing it down, the force will be uneven, leaving a small gap unsealed.


I get what you mean. But it's mounted straight on, without any necessary pressure (except the last lap which is tighten with the tool), without weird angles. It's a even flat are all the way, both on collar o-ring.


----------



## BoxGods

I have to wonder if the way you machined the rotaries has any bearing on this? If there is little or no mating surface for the O ring to seat on...maybe try doubling up on the O rings to compensate for any machining issues caused when you machined the rotaries?

I am not blaming you so please don't take it that way. The fittings and rotaries as sold work fine. I am just using a logical process of elimination. I have installed hundreds of the fittings and rotaries without issue. Customers have installed tens of thousands of the fittings and rotaries. The only obvious variable between your installation and all of those...the rotaries you milled into T's.

The spacing between the compression rings and the body of the rotaries shows a pretty substantial gap. They usually means the compression ring has not rotated all the way down and if it is not all the way down it is not fully driving the end of the tube into the seal. It looks like something in your geometry is keeping the ring from going down all the way--like it is bottoming out on something.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have to wonder if the way you machined the rotaries has any bearing on this? If there is little or no mating surface for the O ring to seat on...maybe try doubling up on the O rings to compensate for any machining issues caused when you machined the rotaries?
> 
> I am not blaming you so please don't take it that way. The fittings and rotaries as sold work fine. I am just using a logical process of elimination. I have installed hundreds of the fittings and rotaries without issue. Customers have installed tens of thousands of the fittings and rotaries. The only obvious variable between your installation and all of those...the rotaries you milled into T's.
> 
> The spacing between the compression rings and the body of the rotaries shows a pretty substantial gap. They usually means the compression ring has not rotated all the way down and if it is not all the way down it is not fully driving the end of the tube into the seal. It looks like something in your geometry is keeping the ring from going down all the way--like it is bottoming out on something.


I understand you suspicious that, I completely understand!

But I just want to say. My drills are not leaking. And, as you can see in the video, the worst one and the one that the video shows, it's not from my drilled hole! It's original hole it's mounted on.

And I actually don't think it's coming from the seal, at least not between barb and rotary because when I fill water I can clearly see it comes from the lock collar.


----------



## BoxGods

I have no idea what to tell you...did you paint the rotaries after you machined them or apply some other finish?


----------



## DNMock

If possible, try and ID the exact spot the leak is coming from.

As detailed as possible. Like is it coming from the between the lock collar and the flat ring, or the round ring and the T. Which side, etc. etc.

The more precise the location of the issue, the more issues can be ruled out.


----------



## BoxGods

Do you have any fittings that screw into something other than a rotary you milled? If so are those leaking as well?


----------



## DNMock

One big problem I'm seeing:



Not only does it look like the pressure is unequally distributed, it shouldn't be sticking out like that.

If it's the rotary you machined that it's screwed into, try applying teflon tape to the threads of the fitting and use a slimmer O-ring.

Edit: Notice how it's off center? The left side is inside the threading and the right side it's sticking out past the threading on the fitting.

If the O ring is being smashed up into the threading it will prevent you from being able to tighten the compression collar down as it will be hitting that O-ring before it can get all the way screwed in.


----------



## BoxGods

That is what I have been saying...just much more clearly written--and pictures with arrows even =)

Also...maybe just a trick of the light but the fitting almost looks like it is not threaded into the rotary evenly...like it is leaning to one side a tiny bit. Again might be a trick of the light.

I would still try screwing a fitting into a block or something other than one of the rotaries you altered and then installing the tube and seeing what happens. All of the geometry just looks a tiny bit oof when the fitting is screwed into one of the modified rotaries. Process of elimination time. Once you have eliminated the obvious...


----------



## eucalyptus

Don't you listen to me? The rotary you are watching which is not "evenöy" threaded. I haven't touched that side! Why do you think it's still green? Because I haven't touched those threads.

It is your threads you are looking at.

My holes looks like this



It's late now so I will have another look tomorrow, been doing all I can tonight.

Edit* hopefully I get somewhere with this tomorrow.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Don't you listen to me? The rotary you are watching which is not "even" threaded. I haven't touched that side! Why do you think it's still green? Because I haven't touched those threads.
> 
> It is your threads you are looking at.
> 
> My holes looks like this
> 
> 
> 
> It's late now so I will have another check tomorrow, been doing all I can tonight.


A: I asked if you painted the rotaries after you machined them (for that very reason).

B: I said (several times) that it might be an optical illusion from the pictures.

I want to help you but it seems like you have made up your mind. Once that happens I don't know what I can do. You believe you have done everything correctly but all of the fittings leaked.

In all the time these fittings have been on the market not a single customer has reported an issue where every fitting leaked immediately with unpressurized water in the loop.

There are no cracks in the lock collars.

You insist that the O rings and seals are installed correctly despite how they look in the pictures you have provided.

I have mentioned that in your pictures the compression rings do not look like they are screwed down all the way which can mean the tube is not being driven into the seal--others in this thread have also mentioned this. You insist once again that despite how things look in your pictures that that is not the issue.

It is also not normal to be able to see the O ring on the bottom of the fitting flattened out and pressed against the compression ring threads as they are in your pictures. You insist that that is not the issue.

You also performed a very major alteration to the rotaries the fittings are screwed into.

With all do respect to you as a customer. There is a difference between "not listening" and my not saying what you want to hear. Without being there myself to personally investigate the best I can do is offer you logical steps to follow to diagnose the problem based on questions and answers. I am happy to send out replacement lock collars (as I have already told you) but I feel certain that if you do everything exactly as you did the first time the result will be identical.

If you would please humor me and look at the O ring mating surfaces on the rotaries in the image above and compare them to the same surface in the image below.



The geometry has been changed a lot. The end you machined has a 2mm deep flange. I am not clear how you are getting the barb or base to screw in far enough for the O ring to compress and create a seal. Logically one of two things can happen. In order to seal the barb or base has to physically screw down below the level of that flange, or you are doubling up the O rings (or using an over sized replacement) which means the barb is really resting on a movable (as in non fixed) base.

Both of those scenarios are less than ideal. If the barb/base is screwing in below the level of that flange then the compression ring simply can't thread down far enough to properly drive the end of the tube into the seal. If the barb/base is "floating" then it is freely rotating when you try to tighten down the compression ring and you get the same result.

Again--I know you do not want to hear that the issue is with the changes you made to the rotaries...but it does seem highly likely that is where we should be looking.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have to wonder if the way you machined
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> A: I asked if you painted the rotaries after you machined them (for that very reason).
> 
> B: I said (several times) that it might be an optical illusion from the pictures.
> 
> I want to help you but it seems like you have made up your mind. Once that happens I don't know what I can do. You believe you have done everything correctly but all of the fittings leaked.
> 
> In all the time these fittings have been on the market not a single customer has reported an issue where every fitting leaked immediately with unpressurized water in the loop.
> 
> There are no cracks in the lock collars.
> 
> You insist that the O rings and seals are installed correctly despite how they look in the pictures you have provided.
> 
> I have mentioned that in your pictures the compression rings do not look like they are screwed down all the way which can mean the tube is not being driven into the seal--others in this thread have also mentioned this. You insist once again that despite how things look in your pictures that that is not the issue.
> 
> It is also not normal to be able to see the O ring on the bottom of the fitting flattened out and pressed against the compression ring threads as they are in your pictures. You insist that that is not the issue.
> 
> You also performed a very major alteration to the rotaries the fittings are screwed into.
> 
> With all do respect to you as a customer. There is a difference between "not listening" and my not saying what you want to hear. Without being there myself to personally investigate the best I can do is offer you logical steps to follow to diagnose the problem based on questions and answers. I am happy to send out replacement lock collars (as I have already told you) but I feel certain that if you do everything exactly as you did the first time the result will be identical.
> 
> 
> 
> I will have a closer look tomorrow at the seals, it might be the problem after all.
> 
> I am sorry for my behavior, I know it makes you frustrating and sad when a customer "complains", so I will stop doing that. I don't want to make bad friends or what's called, I don't want to be that person!
> 
> What I meant is. I get that you find the barb and o-ring smashed very weird. So do I. But I haven't done anything else just that screwed it in, and it only goes in one way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So, let's put all bad moods and everything else and leave it in the past, let's start over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good night, I need a good night 10 hours sleep after this day
Click to expand...


----------



## eucalyptus

Don't ask me what just happened with my post and why it does look like a quote, because I don't know


----------



## DaClownie

Going to bed happy leads to a clearer mind tomorrow. You're increasing your chances of finding a solution.

Good luck tomorrow! Definitely start with those O-Rings.


----------



## Ceadderman

Not to pile on or make light of a sticky issue



But on this side of the collar it seems that there is not enough glue between the tube and the collar. Notice all the hazing? It's showing too clear internally compared to the surrounding area.









I think this is the worst of the issues that I can see other than the compressed o-ring which somehow seated off center of the fitting between the unmodded side of the T and the base.

I would suggest redoing the collars using flat toothpicks to spread the UV glue evenly around the tube. The problem with a clear glue is that it's easy to miss a spot and think that you got it due to the tubing having a nice reflective sheen. So long as it's not exposed to light for a prolonged period during application, it should not dry until fully prepared and the collar given a slight twist to help spread it.

It's these two things imho that is causing that insane loop to bleed. Psycholicous bends though.









Oh and apologies for the bad pun. It was unintentional...









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Looks like you posted while I was editing my post.

Here is a picture to hopefully make my point a bit clearer.

Look at the space between the rotary body and the bottom of the compression ring for each arrow. The difference is substantial.

No gap at the pink arrow. Almost a full mm at the blue arrow.


----------



## BoxGods

I actually think he missed a little glue but not enough to cause a leak--not if he used our UV cure adhesive--and he said he did. If it were out of date or had been frozen that could also be a problem.

It is *almost* impossible to have EVERY fitting leak like he is having. The UV cure adhesive works so well that it is kind of hard to do these incorrectly.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks like you posted while I was editing my post.
> 
> Here is a picture to hopefully make my point a bit clearer.
> 
> Look at the space between the rotary body and the bottom of the compression ring for each arrow. The difference is substantial.
> 
> No gap at the pink arrow. Almost a full mm at the blue arrow.


I saw that too. But if he put a single wrap of silicon tape on those fittings to make certain no leaks happen and reinstall the tubing it would show whether or not the leak is indeed at the collars at the very least. So my suggestion would be to reinstall all fittings with a slight gap using silicon tape to seal those fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Honestly...I can't really recommend plumbers tape on a fitting that has parallel threads as it is designed for fittings that use tapered threads--like your basic 1/4 NPT air line threads or plumbing pipe as an example. With out industry standard BSPP fittings the seal comes from the O ring. Teflon tape is pretty unreliable on parallel threads.

If I had to bet the modifications he made to the rotary's is keeping the compression rings from "bottoming out" enough to drive the end of the tube into the seal. It is a bit ghetto as far as solutions go but if he had to double up on the bottom seal anyway...I would double the seals under the end of the tube.

***EDIT***

Just reread your post and saw you are suggesting the Teflon tape as a temporary trouble shooting method--in that situation yeah it is a good idea.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I actually think he missed a little glue but not enough to cause a leak--not if he used our UV cure adhesive--and he said he did. If it were out of date or had been frozen that could also be a problem.
> 
> It is *almost* impossible to have EVERY fitting leak like he is having. The UV cure adhesive works so well that it is kind of hard to do these incorrectly.


That's a pretty big gaping spot in the haze Geno. Not sure whether it's from the quarter after spot to the quarter til spot, but there is a clear spot just under quarter til from what I can see. I don't think he got that one properly at least from what I can see. I don't see this on the other pics as much but this one is pretty glaring.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

The weird milky color is interesting also...don't recall ever seeing the glue do that--and we have been using it in the shop for at least 10 years now. If it were just one or even FIVE fittings leaking I would be looking at some sort of weird contamination like an industrial glass cleaning chemical...but to have EIGHTEEN fittings leak?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Honestly...I can't really recommend plumbers tape on a fitting that has parallel threads as it is designed for fittings that use tapered threads--like your basic 1/4 NPT air line threads or plumbing pipe as an example. With out industry standard BSPP fittings the seal comes from the O ring. Teflon tape is pretty unreliable on parallel threads.
> 
> If I had to bet the modifications he made to the rotary's is keeping the compression rings from "bottoming out" enough to drive the end of the tube into the seal. It is a bit ghetto as far as solutions go but if he had to double up on the bottom seal anyway...I would double the seals under the end of the tube.
> 
> ***EDIT***
> 
> Just reread your post and saw you are suggesting the Teflon tape as a temporary trouble shooting method--in that situation yeah it is a good idea.


I use PTFE tape with no issues. It's a habit from my youth. Used to help my Gramps do plumbing chores around the house and his shop. Maybe it doesn't work long term, but this is not a permanent solution. Just one to speed things along. If he seats those fittings, his tube will be short and he won't know if his adhesive process was borked. Cause as you point out, that's a rather large gap between the fittings.









~Ceadd


----------



## BoxGods

There is zero doubt that the tape is awesome in regular plumbing situations where you are using tapered threads (pretty much all plumbing parts) and I absolutely LOVE that stuff.

It is virtually worthless on parallel threads as there is no compression. You also have to be really careful to not have that stringy little tail end up under an O ring cause then it leaks for sure. I am not saying your wrong of course, just that in my "official" capacity (feels so weird to say that) I have to be careful about shortcuts. I hesitated even mentioning doubling up on the O rings as that is obviously not a best practice...tho who hasn't used either of those fixes at least once or twice right?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> There is zero doubt that the tape is awesome in regular plumbing situations where you are using tapered threads (pretty much all plumbing parts) and I absolutely LOVE that stuff.
> 
> It is virtually worthless on parallel threads as there is no compression. You also have to be really careful to not have that stringy little tail end up under an O ring cause then it leaks for sure. I am not saying your wrong of course, just that in my "official" capacity (feels so weird to say that) I have to be careful about shortcuts. I hesitated even mentioning doubling up on the O rings as that is obviously not a best practice...*tho who hasn't used either of those fixes at least once or twice right?*


Too right.









~Ceadder


----------



## eucalyptus

Update, the CPU loop, which are in the video.

I removed the Monsoon fittings which were mounted directed over the pump.

Also unistalled, reinstailled all seals and added double seals. So now the the leaks are gone, don't ask me how.

And about the smashed o-rings, I had a look and tested the other rotaries, they are all the same, you can see the o-ring on all of them!

Have to make a new tube on the GPU loop though because somehow the threads are broken in the green fitting, not the barb itself, it's the green fitting - so now I have to make a new tube...

My fittings looks like hell now, kind of destroyed and looks like they were a part of the WW2. But actually I don't really care anymore, just want it work without leaks so I can start using it.

But I do have many leaks left on the GPU loop to fix...


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Update, the CPU loop, which are in the video.
> 
> I removed the Monsoon fittings which were mounted directed over the pump.
> 
> Also unistalled, reinstailled all seals and added double seals. So now the the leaks are gone, don't ask me how.
> 
> And about the smashed o-rings, I had a look and tested the other rotaries, they are all the same, you can see the o-ring on all of them!
> 
> Have to make a new tube on the GPU loop though because somehow the threads are broken in the green fitting, not the barb itself, it's the green fitting - so now I have to make a new tube...
> 
> My fittings looks like hell now, kind of destroyed and looks like they were a part of the WW2. But actually I don't really care anymore, just want it work without leaks so I can start using it.
> 
> But I do have many leaks left on the GPU loop to fix...


My suggestion: Listen to Aaron Rodgers and R-E-L-A-X. Wait a day or so. Put on some nice, mellow music, and take your time. Take it all apart and double/triple check things as you go.

Rushing and getting angry or annoyed at parts for not working properly is counter-productive and will lead to clouded judgement and mistakes. If there are issues, no big deal. The build itself is supposed to be fun itself. The finished product is nice and all, but if you don't enjoy doing the assembly and re-doing it until it's right and works, what's the point? This is clearly not your first build, and it looks like it is coming along great aesthetically. I just don't want you to lose sight of the fact that it's the build itself that you enjoy doing, probably even more so than using the finished product.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Update, the CPU loop, which are in the video.
> 
> I removed the Monsoon fittings which were mounted directed over the pump.
> 
> Also unistalled, reinstailled all seals and added double seals. So now the the leaks are gone, don't ask me how.
> 
> And about the smashed o-rings, I had a look and tested the other rotaries, they are all the same, you can see the o-ring on all of them!
> 
> Have to make a new tube on the GPU loop though because somehow the threads are broken in the green fitting, not the barb itself, it's the green fitting - so now I have to make a new tube...
> 
> My fittings looks like hell now, kind of destroyed and looks like they were a part of the WW2. But actually I don't really care anymore, just want it work without leaks so I can start using it.
> 
> But I do have many leaks left on the GPU loop to fix...


We are with you man just hang in there. Just remember all is well in the end so if its not well its not the end


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Update, the CPU loop, which are in the video.
> 
> I removed the Monsoon fittings which were mounted directed over the pump.
> 
> Also unistalled, reinstailled all seals and added double seals. So now the the leaks are gone, don't ask me how.
> 
> And about the smashed o-rings, I had a look and tested the other rotaries, they are all the same, you can see the o-ring on all of them!
> 
> Have to make a new tube on the GPU loop though because somehow the threads are broken in the green fitting, not the barb itself, it's the green fitting - so now I have to make a new tube...
> 
> My fittings looks like hell now, kind of destroyed and looks like they were a part of the WW2. But actually I don't really care anymore, just want it work without leaks so I can start using it.
> 
> But I do have many leaks left on the GPU loop to fix...
> 
> 
> 
> My suggestion: Listen to Aaron Rodgers and R-E-L-A-X. Wait a day or so. Put on some nice, mellow music, and take your time. Take it all apart and double/triple check things as you go.
> 
> Rushing and getting angry or annoyed at parts for not working properly is counter-productive and will lead to clouded judgement and mistakes. If there are issues, no big deal. The build itself is supposed to be fun itself. The finished product is nice and all, but if you don't enjoy doing the assembly and re-doing it until it's right and works, what's the point? This is clearly not your first build, and it looks like it is coming along great aesthetically. I just don't want you to lose sight of the fact that it's the build itself that you enjoy doing, probably even more so than using the finished product.
Click to expand...

As the great Philosopher Frankie GTH said to Aaron Rodgers before he was born...














~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

I have a question ... and it has nothing to do with leaks ... or celery for that matter ...

I am aiming to do a MMRS in a CaseLabs S5. There is 227mm of clearance from the top of the case to the HDD / mid-chassis part. I have been thinking about a reservoir that looks like this ...










Or like this (sans pumps and shorter) ...









I recently ordered ...

Fill Drain Port Round Cap - White (MMRS-FDP-RC-WH)

Fill Drain Port Base (MMRS-FDP-BASE)

Acrylic Tube Coupler - Black (MMRS-BH)

Triple Port End Cap - Black (MMRS-EC-3P)

100mm Tension Rods - White (MMRS-TR-100-WH)

I haven't ordered any tubes as I am still thinking about which colors and types to get ... eventually, I will need to get 2 x 50mm tubes. It seems that I will also need 2 x 50mm tension rods.

Can you see my question coming ... I thought that the tension rods would be screwed into the end cap and the fill port base ... and would pass right through the coupler. Nope - not going to happen.

The tension rods are cylinders with some carve outs at each end ... making the ends square. One end has a 10mm carve out and the other end has a 6mm carve out.

*The Questions* ... how do I connect the tension rods to the caps and coupler? Which end of the rod (10mm v 6mm) goes where?

I'm also now not even sure if I have the right colors. Maybe the round fill port should be green? Maybe the tension rods should be red? BAH - I hate it when this happens. So many decisions and I thought I was done.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a question ... and it has nothing to do with leaks ... or celery for that matter ...
> 
> I am aiming to do a MMRS in a CaseLabs S5. There is 227mm of clearance from the top of the case to the HDD / mid-chassis part. I have been thinking about a reservoir that looks like this ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or like this (sans pumps and shorter) ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently ordered ...
> 
> Fill Drain Port Round Cap - White (MMRS-FDP-RC-WH)
> 
> Fill Drain Port Base (MMRS-FDP-BASE)
> 
> Acrylic Tube Coupler - Black (MMRS-BH)
> 
> Triple Port End Cap - Black (MMRS-EC-3P)
> 
> 100mm Tension Rods - White (MMRS-TR-100-WH)
> 
> I haven't ordered any tubes as I am still thinking about which colors and types to get ... eventually, I will need to get 2 x 50mm tubes. It seems that I will also need 2 x 50mm tension rods.
> 
> Can you see my question coming ... I thought that the tension rods would be screwed into the end cap and the fill port base ... and would pass right through the coupler. Nope - not going to happen.
> 
> The tension rods are cylinders with some carve outs at each end ... making the ends square. One end has a 10mm carve out and the other end has a 6mm carve out.
> 
> *The Questions* ... how do I connect the tension rods to the caps and coupler? Which end of the rod (10mm v 6mm) goes where?
> 
> I'm also now not even sure if I have the right colors. Maybe the round fill port should be green? Maybe the tension rods should be red? BAH - I hate it when this happens. So many decisions and I thought I was done.


double sided screw goes in the coupler, the tension rods then screw into it from both sides. On the end caps a single sided screw is used to pull the tension rods tight. All the appropriate hardware comes with the couplers, caps, and tension rods.

Black screw goes into end cap > Tension rod goes into black screw on opposite side of end cap > silver double sided screw goes into opposite side of tension rod > coupler > Tension rod # 2 screws down into opposite side of coupler to opposite end of silver, double sided screw > end cap > black screw.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a question ... and it has nothing to do with leaks ... or celery for that matter ...
> 
> I am aiming to do a MMRS in a CaseLabs S5. There is 227mm of clearance from the top of the case to the HDD / mid-chassis part. I have been thinking about a reservoir that looks like this ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or like this (sans pumps and shorter) ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently ordered ...
> 
> Fill Drain Port Round Cap - White (MMRS-FDP-RC-WH)
> 
> Fill Drain Port Base (MMRS-FDP-BASE)
> 
> Acrylic Tube Coupler - Black (MMRS-BH)
> 
> Triple Port End Cap - Black (MMRS-EC-3P)
> 
> 100mm Tension Rods - White (MMRS-TR-100-WH)
> 
> I haven't ordered any tubes as I am still thinking about which colors and types to get ... eventually, I will need to get 2 x 50mm tubes. It seems that I will also need 2 x 50mm tension rods.
> 
> Can you see my question coming ... I thought that the tension rods would be screwed into the end cap and the fill port base ... and would pass right through the coupler. Nope - not going to happen.
> 
> The tension rods are cylinders with some carve outs at each end ... making the ends square. One end has a 10mm carve out and the other end has a 6mm carve out.
> 
> *The Questions* ... how do I connect the tension rods to the caps and coupler? Which end of the rod (10mm v 6mm) goes where?
> 
> I'm also now not even sure if I have the right colors. Maybe the round fill port should be green? Maybe the tension rods should be red? BAH - I hate it when this happens. So many decisions and I thought I was done.


The coupler comes with grub screws that make the 2 rods go together. All of your questions can be answered by the video, go watch the video












Actually for the couplers watch no 3 as well.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx guys. I'll watch the vids and hopefully that will also answer the question of which end of the tension rod goes where ... that is ... is the 10mm end the top ... or is the 6mm end the top.

Edit: I spent some time looking at pictures on PPCS of the tension bars ... and both ends look to be the same length. I was also only looking at one of the bars I got. I un-wrapped the others ... and here is a picture of my set ...










What is that Sesame Street song ... _one thing here is not like the others ..._


----------



## djchup

My Monsoon D5 reservoir top is leaking from the pump housing threads. I was skeptical when assembling as it felt like the pump was too wide to make good contact with the o-ring. Not sure how I'm going to proceed as I've been working for almost 12 hours nonstop to get this loop set up and will have to tear it all down. Might just seal the threads with silicon but I haven't decided how I'm going to proceed.


----------



## Don Key Sho

I am looking at the picture.....its like mine (just inverted)." that housing" is really just a cover. the only way that helps seal is by puting pressure on the base of the pump" top". (yours inverted).and sealing at the o ring thats were your leak is coming from. your probably going to have to dissasemble anyway(like i did) and check for anything like a hair or some small forigen debris at the o ring). when you reassmble, run a tube between the in and out, fill with fluid, and bench run using your PSU (dont reinstall into case until you do this). this is what i did (mainly because i wasnt sure about my assembly skills).
BUT remember! i am a watercooling NOOB! but im a Automotive God! ( ok maybe not a god....but my dad has a killer set of tools! i can fix it! ( Spicoli )









Edit: ok its upsidedown.....boy is my face red!


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> 
> My Monsoon D5 reservoir top is leaking from the pump housing threads. I was skeptical when assembling as it felt like the pump was too wide to make good contact with the o-ring. Not sure how I'm going to proceed as I've been working for almost 12 hours nonstop to get this loop set up and will have to tear it all down. Might just seal the threads with silicon but I haven't decided how I'm going to proceed.


Where is it leaking? At the housing collar or inside? and is that pump upside down?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Where is it leaking? At the housing collar or inside? and is that pump upside down?


I was going to say the same thing about it being upside down lol, the whole case is upside down.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> We are with you man just hang in there. Just remember all is well in the end so if its not well its not the end


Admittedly I am a sucker for cool sayings...but that one is just awesome and I am totally stealing it


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a question ... and it has nothing to do with leaks ... or celery for that matter ...
> 
> I am aiming to do a MMRS in a CaseLabs S5. There is 227mm of clearance from the top of the case to the HDD / mid-chassis part. I have been thinking about a reservoir that looks like this ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or like this (sans pumps and shorter) ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently ordered ...
> 
> Fill Drain Port Round Cap - White (MMRS-FDP-RC-WH)
> 
> Fill Drain Port Base (MMRS-FDP-BASE)
> 
> Acrylic Tube Coupler - Black (MMRS-BH)
> 
> Triple Port End Cap - Black (MMRS-EC-3P)
> 
> 100mm Tension Rods - White (MMRS-TR-100-WH)
> 
> I haven't ordered any tubes as I am still thinking about which colors and types to get ... eventually, I will need to get 2 x 50mm tubes. It seems that I will also need 2 x 50mm tension rods.
> 
> Can you see my question coming ... I thought that the tension rods would be screwed into the end cap and the fill port base ... and would pass right through the coupler. Nope - not going to happen.
> 
> The tension rods are cylinders with some carve outs at each end ... making the ends square. One end has a 10mm carve out and the other end has a 6mm carve out.
> 
> *The Questions* ... how do I connect the tension rods to the caps and coupler? Which end of the rod (10mm v 6mm) goes where?
> 
> I'm also now not even sure if I have the right colors. Maybe the round fill port should be green? Maybe the tension rods should be red? BAH - I hate it when this happens. So many decisions and I thought I was done.


The ends of the tension rods are square so you can fit the included box wrench on them if needed. You can use either end of the tension rod as they are not "end specific". Yes eac length of tube requires a matching length of tension rods--as an example if your configuration uses two 100mm tubes and one 50mm tube you will need two sets 100mm tension rods and one set 50mm tension rods.

As for colors--that is a subjective personal choice but I can offer some general pointers. The inside of a PC tends to look very chaotic and to the untrained eye overly busy so I always try the less is more approach. Overcome visual chaos by adding order and keeping it simple. Try to restrict yourself to two or three colors at most.--a primary color and one or two accent colors. If you are bending hard lines try to keep them all vertical and horizontal. Avoid the "lazy loop" trap of running directly from point to point or port to port as experienced modders know the joy of hard lines is that you get to determine the path. If you are going to be lazy and run the lines at angles from port to port...might as well just use soft lines. If you do want to use diagonal sections in your loop keep them all at the same angle and if possible parallel--the goal being to make it clear you intentionally added the angled runs in and took the time to make them look cool.

If you do want to use three colors on the reservoir maybe have a common color--like black--and use one accent color inside the case and a different accent color on parts outside the case--FDP caps for example.

There are several videos covering MMRS on our channel here"

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> 
> My Monsoon D5 reservoir top is leaking from the pump housing threads. I was skeptical when assembling as it felt like the pump was too wide to make good contact with the o-ring. Not sure how I'm going to proceed as I've been working for almost 12 hours nonstop to get this loop set up and will have to tear it all down. Might just seal the threads with silicon but I haven't decided how I'm going to proceed.


I saw all those paper towels saturated with red...kinda scared me for a sec as they look bloody.

Others have commented that you have your case inverted--but just to be sure, you can't run the reservoir with the pump on the top or it will starve and an angel loses its wings.

If you can email me - [email protected] - I can work with you more quickly to figure out what is going on and sorted out.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The ends of the tension rods are square so you can fit the included box wrench on them if needed. You can use either end of the tension rod as they are not "end specific". Yes eac length of tube requires a matching length of tension rods--as an example if your configuration uses two 100mm tubes and one 50mm tube you will need two sets 100mm tension rods and one set 50mm tension rods.


Thanks for the comments re color, loop runs, etc. I'll keep those in mind.

My website is down so the pics I posted there aren't available at the moment. Here is the pic of the 6 white 100mm tension rods. What is with that odd one out?



Stupid me - which I had watched that v3 video before I ordered parts. Then I would have known that the tension rods have to be the same length as the tubes. I thought if I had 2 x 50mm tubes, I could get 1 x 100mm tension rods and pass the rods through the coupler. Ok well - at least this now opens up options re color of tension rod screws


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Admittedly I am a sucker for cool sayings...but that one is just awesome and I am totally stealing it


My mom told me that 36 years ago when at 15 my first real girlfriend broke up with me.Its stayed with me ever since. I dont even remember her name but never forgot that LOL


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the comments re color, loop runs, etc. I'll keep those in mind.
> 
> My website is down so the pics I posted there aren't available at the moment. Here is the pic of the 6 white 100mm tension rods. What is with that odd one out?
> 
> Stupid me - which I had watched that v3 video before I ordered parts. Then I would have known that the tension rods have to be the same length as the tubes. I thought if I had 2 x 50mm tubes, I could get 1 x 100mm tension rods and pass the rods through the coupler. Ok well - at least this now opens up options re color of tension rod screws


That would be the infamous Erronous Maximas rod. Looks like somebody got a little carried away when they were machining the wrench flats. Will not affect installation but once installed you will see a little of the wrench flats if you look close. If it bothers you email me and I can get a replacement out in the mail to you. Sorry about the error and I will make sure the guy sipping coffee instead of watching what he was doing is made aware.


----------



## eucalyptus

A quick update.

I managed to solve all the leaks. Had to re-do one tubing since the green fitting threads broke for no reason. But now it works!

But I also had to remove the fittings placed over the pumps due to locking collar failure.

I will let them run a few hours on Tuesday, had them running 1.5 hours today without any issues.

I also have no idea how I solved this. Maybe the force was with me.

Anyway, thanks for your support!

And yeah, I do have old collars. One of them dropped in the floor and got a crack immediately...


----------



## CrazyCreator

Which glue should I use to connect Lock Collar with Monsoon PETG Tubes? I use ACRIFIX 1R 0192 , but ... see picture



Is better to use the original Monsoon Glue?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> A quick update.
> 
> I managed to solve all the leaks. Had to re-do one tubing since the green fitting threads broke for no reason. But now it works!
> 
> But I also had to remove the fittings placed over the pumps due to locking collar failure.
> 
> I will let them run a few hours on Tuesday, had them running 1.5 hours today without any issues.
> 
> I also have no idea how I solved this. Maybe the force was with me.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for your support!
> 
> And yeah, I do have old collars. One of them dropped in the floor and got a crack immediately...


Congrats glad its working finally. That light at the end of the tunnel was not a train after all


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The ends of the tension rods are square so you can fit the included box wrench on them if needed. You can use either end of the tension rod as they are not "end specific". Yes eac length of tube requires a matching length of tension rods--as an example if your configuration uses two 100mm tubes and one 50mm tube you will need two sets 100mm tension rods and one set 50mm tension rods.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the comments re color, loop runs, etc. I'll keep those in mind.
> 
> My website is down so the pics I posted there aren't available at the moment. Here is the pic of the 6 white 100mm tension rods. What is with that odd one out?
> 
> 
> 
> Stupid me - which I had watched that v3 video before I ordered parts. Then I would have known that the tension rods have to be the same length as the tubes. I thought if I had 2 x 50mm tubes, I could get 1 x 100mm tension rods and pass the rods through the coupler. Ok well - at least this now opens up options re color of tension rod screws
Click to expand...

Waittasec...









So that means my planned Res (250x50) requires 250mm rods and 50mm rods? I planned to go with 300mm rods.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Waittasec...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So that means my planned Res (250x50) requires 250mm rods and 50mm rods? I planned to go with 300mm rods.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Glad I wasn't the only one making that mistake. Watch the vid in post #1102 above and it all becomes clear. Ended up costing me a few extra $s as I now have an excess set of tension rods. BUT ... it has given me the option of mix 'n match with the colors of the rods and have all white screws on the end. I will be taking that option up!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Glad I wasn't the only one making that mistake. Watch the vid in post #1102 above and it all becomes clear. Ended up costing me a few extra $s as I now have an excess set of tension rods. BUT ... it has given me the option of mix 'n match with the colors of the rods and have all white screws on the end. I will be taking that option up!


oooh, i never even thought of that, multiple colored tension rods! I like it.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Glad I wasn't the only one making that mistake. Watch the vid in post #1102 above and it all becomes clear. Ended up costing me a few extra $s as I now have an excess set of tension rods. BUT ... it has given me the option of mix 'n match with the colors of the rods and have all white screws on the end. I will be taking that option up!
> 
> 
> 
> oooh, i never even thought of that, multiple colored tension rods! I like it.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of this too, blue tube, rods, and fill port with black screws. Still may try it and see.


----------



## djchup

As a follow up to my previous post - I disassembled my loop last night and can confirm that my D5 MMRS endcap is leaking from the D5 o-ring. After disassembling and reassembling the unit several times I can't make it stop leaking. I just had a separate pump housing overnighted as I'm without a computer until I get this up and running. Disappointed as I liked the looks of the unit a lot. When assembling the unit, it felt like the D5 was too wide to make good contact with the o-ring, and was instead getting caught up on the silver screws in the image. Also including an image of my loop after I assembled it for the first time on friday.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








EDIT: yes my case was upside down in my last post, flipped it over to prevent coolant from reaching the pump housing where it was leaking.


----------



## fast_fate

Is PPCs the only store stocking MMRS parts ?

They have no stock of 2 critical (to me anyway) pieces.

Looking for:

Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black

and

Monsoon MMRS Triple Port End Cap - Black


----------



## Jiryama

Hey @BoxGods, I would like to say congratulations because you got some very high praise from LinusTechTips and he used your products in his new *Personal* Rig!

Hopefully the masses take notice of the pristine work you do, I saw what looked like a MMRS so I HAD to check it out and I was correct. You have succeeded in your goal of people being able to recognize your products without mass labeling.












Maybe you can use this as some firepower to get PerformancePCs to give you a full section in water cooling instead of throwing it in the Reservoir Parts area!

Great job Geno!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> oooh, i never even thought of that, multiple colored tension rods! I like it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I was thinking of this too, blue tube, rods, and fill port with black screws. Still may try it and see.


I just realized that you don't need a 3rd set. Each set of tension rods come with enough screws for both ends. If you put in a coupler, then you only use screws on one end (the coupler comes with screws for the other end) and you are left with excess screws.

Example White and black tension rods

_White Screw - white tension rod - screw from coupler - black tension rod - white screw_

... and you have all of the black screws left over.

I just ordered some 50mm stuff - enough to build my res - I will post pictures later.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Hey @BoxGods, I would like to say congratulations because you got some very high praise from LinusTechTips and he used your products in his new *Personal* Rig!
> 
> Hopefully the masses take notice of the pristine work you do, I saw what looked like a MMRS so I HAD to check it out and I was correct. You have succeeded in your goal of people being able to recognize your products without mass labeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you can use this as some firepower to get PerformancePCs to give you a full section in water cooling instead of throwing it in the Reservoir Parts area!
> 
> Great job Geno!


Dont get this wrong I like Linus and its great he mentioned monsoon in his video. However the second he sandwiched rads he lost all credit-ability at all, not that he had much in WC industry to begin with.

Honestly I am amazed that he did that AMAZED like seriously, its kinda sad as he has a pretty big following as well. Know there will be a million noobs running around sandwiching there rads







.

Maybe he never got the memo that sandwiching rads like that lowers the performance below just using 1







. Seriously his Water cooling Card just got revoked.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Dont get this wrong I like Linus and its great he mentioned monsoon in his video. However the second he sandwiched rads he lost all credit-ability at all, not that he had much in WC industry to begin with.


It is more the fact that he has 2.2m subscribers that could lead to free advertisement which is awesome. Not to mention possibly 157k people who have viewed the video within the first 13 hours of upload (The Linus fanatics?), that might be going "Who the heck is Monsoon with that super convenient hard Tube kit and that awesome looking reservoir?!"

Credible or not, he has the followers which has given Geno a lot of free PR which is something to celebrate for a smaller company.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Hey @BoxGods, I would like to say congratulations because you got some very high praise from LinusTechTips and he used your products in his new *Personal* Rig!
> 
> Hopefully the masses take notice of the pristine work you do, I saw what looked like a MMRS so I HAD to check it out and I was correct. You have succeeded in your goal of people being able to recognize your products without mass labeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you can use this as some firepower to get PerformancePCs to give you a full section in water cooling instead of throwing it in the Reservoir Parts area!
> 
> Great job Geno!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont get this wrong I like Linus and its great he mentioned monsoon in his video. However the second he sandwiched rads he lost all credit-ability at all, not that he had much in WC industry to begin with.
> 
> Honestly I am amazed that he did that AMAZED like seriously, its kinda sad as he has a pretty big following as well. Know there will be a million noobs running around sandwiching there rads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Maybe he never got the memo that sandwiching rads like that lowers the performance below just using 1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Seriously his Water cooling Card just got revoked.
Click to expand...

LuLz









As much as I love my FrozenQ res, it wasn't all that an a box of Trix. Anything compared to it is an admitted upgrade. Which is why I'm selling mine so cheap. It does the job and no chance of it building enough turbulence to cyclone inside it, but honestly as much as it cost it's not that spiffy. Novelty item imho and on the same level with Plexi cases which I have owned as well. An here Linus thought it was "Amazing".
















~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> It is more the fact that he has 2.2m subscribers that could lead to free advertisement which is awesome. Not to mention possibly 157k people who have viewed the video within the first 13 hours of upload (The Linus fanatics?), that might be going "Who the heck is Monsoon with that super convenient hard Tube kit and that awesome looking reservoir?!"
> 
> Credible or not, he has the followers which has given Geno a lot of free PR which is something to celebrate for a smaller company.


Ya I know the shout out was awesome







Hopefully the noobs running around with stacked rads will have MMRS Res's to go with it







. I was just saying that any seasoned watercooler will stop wacthing that video long before the res is shown.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> LuLz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As much as I love my FrozenQ res, it wasn't all that an a box of Trix. Anything compared to it is an admitted upgrade. Which is why I'm selling mine so cheap. It does the job and no chance of it building enough turbulence to cyclone inside it, but honestly as much as it cost it's not that spiffy. Novelty item imho and on the same level with Plexi cases which I have owned as well. An here Linus thought it was "Amazing".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ya I have a frozen Q too, I am going to keep it just because why not. I loved it when I first got it and it was new and unique and cool but then it got old and gaudy. Then again years passed so maybe it was me that changed not the reservoir







. I mean things have changed alot since back when, neon green tubes and uv lights everywhere to more subtle and elegant looks and when aggressive still understated. It was the Fad of its day and the time is up.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Dont get this wrong I like Linus and its great he mentioned monsoon in his video. However the second he sandwiched rads he lost all credit-ability at all, not that he had much in WC industry to begin with.


Wait ... what? What do you mean by 'sandwiched rads'? Is this when you have two rads in (say) a pedestal and the fans attached to the rads are blowing the air the same way? Is having the fans blow air into the rad better? I have seen a number of builds that have air flow in one side and out the other side (of the pedestal).

Is there some 'research' that I can read?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Wait ... what? What do you mean by 'sandwiched rads'? Is this when you have two rads in (say) a pedestal and the fans attached to the rads are blowing the air the same way? Is having the fans blow air into the rad better? I have seen a number of builds that have air flow in one side and out the other side (of the pedestal).
> 
> Is there some 'research' that I can read?


Yeah, sandwich, when you stack things above each other







Don't necessary have to be radiators, could be anything









More exactly though, the first radiator with fans exhaust the hot air, but it goes through the next rad with fans.

And physics law is something (I have not idea what I am talking about) that you can't cool anything cooler using than the air is itself. So if you are pushing hot air through the second rad it doesn't get cooler automatically because the air itself is heating the rad. OMG I complicate such an easy thing, sorry.

I am out of here.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Wait ... what? What do you mean by 'sandwiched rads'? Is this when you have two rads in (say) a pedestal and the fans attached to the rads are blowing the air the same way? Is having the fans blow air into the rad better? I have seen a number of builds that have air flow in one side and out the other side (of the pedestal).
> 
> Is there some 'research' that I can read?


That depends entirely on the setup, Technically a sandwiched rad is how it sounds, set of fans, rad, set of fans, rad (then maybe another set of fans). In linus's case he has maybe an inch at most between the rads so its as close to a sandwich as you can get, without actually sticking 2 rads together (which is even worse).

In your pedestal question things change as the problems with the sandwiching can be lessened. if you have say 3-4 inches between your rads in the pedestal with some other intakes and/or at least holes for air to enter, that isn't bad. Is that ideal no that is horrible for efficiency, radiator need cold air to cool the water, if the air going through them is hotter, the cooling is lessened.

If you have 2 of the same exact radiators in a sealed pedestal with 1 pulling in and one exhausting. The second rad is using air that has already been heated by the first, therefor that air cannot absorb as much heat from the radiator. If the heat is enough, lets say the first rad blows in and then blows by a few MCP35x with heat sinks now that air is so warmed it might even hinder performance to the point of raising temps.

A radiator doesn't just get cold, a radiator can absorb heat as well, it goes both ways.

Another note about people doing so in pedestals some people do it for other reasons than performance. A top mounted rad should not be exhaust, it is than using recycled and heated air. This reduces the performance of the radiator greatly and if you have enough heat again it could even raise the temps beyond just taking the radiator out.

Yet I can show you a million people with builds with top mounted rads exhausting air, but this is inefficient and waste of rad space and money TBH. They will justify it by saying "its only a 3-c difference to delta" which is true but 3-5c out of 10-15c delta is huge and pretty much what that extra rad gives you.

As far as research ya read martin or strens tests of sandwich rads or really anything about how radiators work.

Edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Yeah, sandwich, when you stack things above each other
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't necessary have to be radiators, could be anything
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More exactly though, the first radiator with fans exhaust the hot air, but it goes through the next rad with fans.
> 
> And physics law is something (I have not idea what I am talking about) that you can't cool anything cooler using than the air is itself. So if you are pushing hot air through the second rad it doesn't get cooler automatically because the air itself is heating the rad. OMG I complicate such an easy thing, sorry.
> 
> I am out of here.


That wasnt a bad job, give your self more credit







his was the TLDR version of mine hehehe. If i wasnt busy typing an essay of a post when you said this I would have just "this"


----------



## Ceadderman

Stacking Rads in Parallel isn't ideal at all. Stacking Rads in Serial is more beneficial, but only if the distance is reasonable. i.e. Pedestal mounting with some distance between the Rads. I'm setting up 2 of my 3 Rads vertically stacked blowing into the case. So both are Intake and both will be blowing warm air into the case but with a single 250 fan blowing cool air between them to push it all out the back of the case. Going Intake dual 360 exhaust 140 and Intake 360 in the top.









I would never stack Rads within 3 inches of each other and especially not in Parallel.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Stacking Rads in Parallel isn't ideal at all. Stacking Rads in Serial is more beneficial, but only if the distance is reasonable. i.e. Pedestal mounting with *some distance between the Rads*. I'm setting up 2 of my 3 Rads vertically stacked blowing into the case. So *both are Intake* and both will be blowing warm air into the case *but with a single 250 fan blowing cool air between them* to push it all out the back of the case. Going Intake dual 360 exhaust 140 and Intake 360 in the top.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would never stack Rads within 3 inches of each other and especially not in Parallel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Here is a great example







Notice what I bolded







. This makes all the difference, I did this when I did use a rad as exhaust from my case. although the air was recycled my rear intake was blow air in and I also had a fan in the drive cage to blow air in. So even though my rad was exhausting air from the case, there was cold air mixing with it thus increasing the performance of the radiator. That is the only way I would suggest having a top mounted rad as exhaust.


----------



## DNMock

I can think of at least 30 people who post here on OCN just off the top of my head (not counting reps like Gene) who's advice I would take over the likes of JayZ2cents, and Linus without hesitation.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I can think of at least 30 people who post here on OCN just off the top of my head (not counting reps like Gene) who's advice I would take over the likes of JayZ2cents, and Linus without hesitation.


Careful there you will have an angry mob on you fast!, Been there done that







. I like those guys but sometimes there Advice and "Facts" are less than realistic. They are good for entertainment which is what there for and for rundowns on products ect, but they are by no means experts or even more knowledgeable in some fields (Cough, Watercooling, Cough) than the average joe enthusiast.

If you want actual facts then seek your info elsewhere, OCN is a great place and houses some real experts.

Anyway sorry for derailing the thread Gene, My bad.


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks guys - I can work with that.

However, re getting water cooler than the outside air ... I'm sure I saw a youtube vid of 40 (or 60) corsair fans stacked one on top of the other and running thru a radiator that lowered the temp to -40° or so. I can't seem to find it now. Was it last April, or the April before that?

Edit - found it.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks guys - I can work with that.
> 
> However, re getting water cooler than the outside air ... I'm sure I saw a youtube vid of 40 (or 60) corsair fans stacked one on top of the other and running thru a radiator that lowered the temp to -40° or so. I can't seem to find it now. Was it last April, or the April before that?
> 
> Edit - found it.


Man could you imagine if he used alphacool monstas for that, and had 3 rads 1 in the center and 1 at each end. LN2 aint got nothing on that for real though,


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks guys - I can work with that.
> 
> However, re getting water cooler than the outside air ... I'm sure I saw a youtube vid of 40 (or 60) corsair fans stacked one on top of the other and running thru a radiator that lowered the temp to -40° or so. I can't seem to find it now. Was it last April, or the April before that?
> 
> Edit - found it.


He hacked the Bench. Which was how he got those numbers. If you play it to the very end, you will see that he was taking the p!$$ out of everybody with that joke vid.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He hacked the Bench. Which was how he got those numbers. If you play it to the very end, you will see that he was taking the p!$$ out of everybody with that joke vid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


He knows that lol, See "Was it last April, or the April before that?"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He hacked the Bench. Which was how he got those numbers. If you play it to the very end, you will see that he was taking the p!$$ out of everybody with that joke vid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He knows that lol, See "Was it last April, or the April before that?"
Click to expand...

iirc, it was 3 Aprils' ago. I was in Kansas 5 Dec 2012 and the vid was launched the following April.









~Ceadder


----------



## iCrap

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I can think of at least 30 people who post here on OCN just off the top of my head (not counting reps like Gene) who's advice I would take over the likes of JayZ2cents, and Linus without hesitation.


jayz2cents seems like he knows what he's talking about, but linus... just lol.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> As a follow up to my previous post - I disassembled my loop last night and can confirm that my D5 MMRS endcap is leaking from the D5 o-ring. After disassembling and reassembling the unit several times I can't make it stop leaking. I just had a separate pump housing overnighted as I'm without a computer until I get this up and running. Disappointed as I liked the looks of the unit a lot. When assembling the unit, it felt like the D5 was too wide to make good contact with the o-ring, and was instead getting caught up on the silver screws in the image. Also including an image of my loop after I assembled it for the first time on friday.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: yes my case was upside down in my last post, flipped it over to prevent coolant from reaching the pump housing where it was leaking.


What D5 pump are you using what brand and what size is the o ring. I got a xspc D5 and it came with a thicker o ring than what came with the mmrs d5 pump housing. The first time i did it i was using the o ring that came with the mmrs Pump housing and some how i cut it. second time i used the one from the Xspc D5 pump and have had no issues since. Dont know if this helps.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I can think of at least 30 people who post here on OCN just off the top of my head (not counting reps like Gene) who's advice I would take over the likes of JayZ2cents, and Linus without hesitation.
> 
> 
> 
> jayz2cents seems like he knows what he's talking about, but linus... just lol.
Click to expand...











Hey he *did* get EK to mill a one off. Which *every* time I have tried this, they decline and say they don't do that. Gotta respect *that* much.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> Which glue should I use to connect Lock Collar with Monsoon PETG Tubes? I use ACRIFIX 1R 0192 , but ... see picture
> 
> 
> 
> Is better to use the original Monsoon Glue?


Yes. We do not mark that glue up--IOW we sell it to resellers at cost--so I am not pitching our adhesive because it is ours. it simply works better than any we have ever found. It works well with a broad range of plastics like Acrylic or PETG and even on copper.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> A quick update.
> 
> I managed to solve all the leaks. Had to re-do one tubing since the green fitting threads broke for no reason. But now it works!
> 
> But I also had to remove the fittings placed over the pumps due to locking collar failure.
> 
> I will let them run a few hours on Tuesday, had them running 1.5 hours today without any issues.
> 
> I also have no idea how I solved this. Maybe the force was with me.
> 
> Anyway, thanks for your support!
> 
> And yeah, I do have old collars. One of them dropped in the floor and got a crack immediately...


I shipped out replacement collars to you several days ago. They should arrive soon.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I was thinking of this too, blue tube, rods, and fill port with black screws. Still may try it and see.


This must be a "guy thing" as I always use black screws on the blue fill port caps too and my wife always comments she likes the blue screws with the blue cap and that I am "weird" =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> As a follow up to my previous post - I disassembled my loop last night and can confirm that my D5 MMRS endcap is leaking from the D5 o-ring. After disassembling and reassembling the unit several times I can't make it stop leaking. I just had a separate pump housing overnighted as I'm without a computer until I get this up and running. Disappointed as I liked the looks of the unit a lot. When assembling the unit, it felt like the D5 was too wide to make good contact with the o-ring, and was instead getting caught up on the silver screws in the image. Also including an image of my loop after I assembled it for the first time on friday.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: yes my case was upside down in my last post, flipped it over to prevent coolant from reaching the pump housing where it was leaking.


You have the wrong sized screws. We replaced these in all the inventory PPCS had so not sure how you still managed to get the old ones...did you buy the part a while back maybe?

If you can email me your shipping information I can get the correct screws out to you right away. I apologize for you somehow managing to get the old screws. The new part you ordered will have the correct screws so I can either send replacement screws so the current part can be used on a future build or I can issue a credit for the cost of the TRP via Paypal or w/e works for you.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Hey @BoxGods, I would like to say congratulations because you got some very high praise from LinusTechTips and he used your products in his new *Personal* Rig!
> 
> Hopefully the masses take notice of the pristine work you do, I saw what looked like a MMRS so I HAD to check it out and I was correct. You have succeeded in your goal of people being able to recognize your products without mass labeling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe you can use this as some firepower to get PerformancePCs to give you a full section in water cooling instead of throwing it in the Reservoir Parts area!
> 
> Great job Geno!


Thanks.

Kind of funny how he put the fill port cap on the inside...we designed a recess into that side panel so he could have it on the outside--no spill issues that way. I bet he was so tired when he put it together he just didn't realize it.


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You have the wrong sized screws. We replaced these in all the inventory PPCS had so not sure how you still managed to get the old ones...did you buy the part a while back maybe?
> 
> If you can email me your shipping information I can get the correct screws out to you right away. I apologize for you somehow managing to get the old screws. The new part you ordered will have the correct screws so I can either send replacement screws so the current part can be used on a future build or I can issue a credit for the cost of the TRP via Paypal or w/e works for you.


I emailed you; but for public visibility yes that was the issue. I ordered the part in October when I was just starting to collect parts for this build and must have gotten a first revision unit.


----------



## eucalyptus

It's finally up and running, an hour with both loops at maximum - and what I can see - no leaks









But it seems like actually I got a crack in the lock collar, I will get a picture for you later, it's very visible.

My friends scares me off "you might be cool for now, but in a few weeks you will have a fountain again when collars cracks".

I am happy for now at least. And thanks to all of you for your support!!!


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> It's finally up and running, an hour with both loops at maximum - and what I can see - no leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it seems like actually I got a crack in the lock collar, I will get a picture for you later, it's very visible.
> 
> My friends scares me off "you might be cool for now, but in a few weeks you will have a fountain again when collars cracks".
> 
> I am happy for now at least. And thanks to all of you for your support!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I'm glad to see you finally solved all the leaks. Please keep us posted on what happens with the cracked acrylic collar. I am finishing a build with Monsoon hard tube and Monsoon fittings, and all of my locked collars turned out to be acrylic. I'm trusting the bends are precise enough not to induce cracks on the collars, but I'm nervous!
Also, congratulations on your build. The tri-stellar is an awesome case, and you did an incredible job with it! I like the unusual color scheme, and how every detail is consistent with the overall design, like the "organic" bends and the creative way you did some cable management.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> I'm glad to see you finally solved all the leaks. Please keep us posted on what happens with the cracked acrylic collar. I am finishing a build with Monsoon hard tube and Monsoon fittings, and all of my locked collars turned out to be acrylic. I'm trusting the bends are precise enough not to induce cracks on the collars, but I'm nervous!
> Also, congratulations on your build. The tri-stellar is an awesome case, and you did an incredible job with it! I like the unusual color scheme, and how every detail is consistent with the overall design, like the "organic" bends and the creative way you did some cable management.


Thanks a lot Jvilla





















I appreciate it.

And, yeah, seems like you have the same story as I do. Where did you get your collars? Mine was from the 6-packs of green 13/10 fittings from Caseking.

This is how the really bad one looks I noticed, it's so clear in real life. And not just a bubble between glue and collar/tube as it may be on the other ones.

Camera has struggle with to catch it. But first picture shows you the crack. Well, good side it doesn't leak, yet


----------



## BoxGods

Your replacement lock collars should be there in any day as they went out Friday the 15th.

We made the switch to poly carbonate collars a full year ago and destroyed all the acrylic collars we had in inventory. Not a single one has shipped since then. I think what happened is you got parts that had set on the self at your retailer since then because the green color sells much slower.

If doubling up the O rings fixed your leaks...I guess it was the machining modifications you made to the rotaries that was causing the issue then?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Your replacement lock collars should be there in any day as they went out Friday the 15th.
> 
> We made the switch to poly carbonate collars a full year ago and destroyed all the acrylic collars we had in inventory. Not a single one has shipped since then. I think what happened is you got parts that had set on the self at your retailer since then because the green color sells much slower.
> 
> If doubling up the O rings fixed your leaks...I guess it was the machining modifications you made to the rotaries that was causing the issue then?


Yeah I guess so, green seems like no one is buying.

And no, my machined holes where not the problem. The leaks weren't coming from them. Not even through the fittings mounted in them. But I could tighten them better with double o-rings.

The leaks were coming from the flat o-ring and the collar. Except for the tubes I had to remove completely - it was flowing water through the collars - also the ones I made first...

I actually not totally sure how I solved it, I disassembled everything and put it together. Also added a little glue here and there. May had some uneven force on the flat o-rings.

I did notice the flat o-rings are extremely critically to a 100% perfect straight hit with the collar, otherwise it would leak. Could be something with the order I mounted them, now I started with the long tubes and took the smaller ones last.


----------



## BoxGods

So...if you were to remove the doubled up O rings on the rotaries you modified...the fittings still would not leak?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Dont get this wrong I like Linus and its great he mentioned monsoon in his video. However the second he sandwiched rads he lost all credit-ability at all, not that he had much in WC industry to begin with.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait ... what? What do you mean by 'sandwiched rads'? Is this when you have two rads in (say) a pedestal and the fans attached to the rads are blowing the air the same way? Is having the fans blow air into the rad better? I have seen a number of builds that have air flow in one side and out the other side (of the pedestal).
> 
> Is there some 'research' that I can read?
Click to expand...

Is this an example of a rad sandwich?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1515850/...99-deluxe-haswell-5960-h2o-aquacomputer/0_100


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Is this an example of a rad sandwich?


That is more like two slices of bread with no meat (fan) =)

Keep in mind the basic function of a radiator is as a heat exchange or transfer device and as such it can work in either direction. The goal is to have your CPU and or GPU blocks transfer heat to the fluid and into your radiator to remove that heat and expel it out of the case. If the water is passed through the first radiator and xxx amount of heat is removed by transferring it to the air being moved by the fans over the fins and you then run that water through a second radiator with the now heated air being forced over the fins you either do not draw much additional heat from that fluid, or in a worst case scenario you transfer some of the heat back into the fluid.

Although it is true the stacked radiators in the video are not an "optimal" configuration I am not sure how he could have mounted them any differently as there really are not a lot of options in a rack mount chassis. If the front most radiator is only working at 50% efficiency because of the thermal flywheel it is about as well as you can get because of the space constraints. Said another way the extra 50% from the second radiator in the stack is better than nothing. I think his primary reason for water cooling was noise reduction more than bleeding edge performance.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iCrap*
> 
> jayz2cents seems like he knows what he's talking about, but linus... just lol.


Lets not sugarcoat it jay is cool and I love watching him but he has spread some mis info around just as much as linus. That isn't his fault though and doesn't make him a bad guy no one is perfect and neither of them claim to be experts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That is more like two slices of bread with no meat (fan) =)
> 
> Keep in mind the basic function of a radiator is as a heat exchange or transfer device and as such it can work in either direction. The goal is to have your CPU and or GPU blocks transfer heat to the fluid and into your radiator to remove that heat and expel it out of the case. If the water is passed through the first radiator and xxx amount of heat is removed by transferring it to the air being moved by the fans over the fins and you then run that water through a second radiator with the now heated air being forced over the fins you either do not draw much additional heat from that fluid, or in a worst case scenario you transfer some of the heat back into the fluid.
> 
> Although it is true the stacked radiators in the video are not an "optimal" configuration I am not sure how he could have mounted them any differently as there really are not a lot of options in a rack mount chassis. If the front most radiator is only working at 50% efficiency because of the thermal flywheel it is about as well as you can get because of the space constraints. Said another way the extra 50% from the second radiator in the stack is better than nothing. I think his primary reason for water cooling was noise reduction more than bleeding edge performance.


I know its a rack case and that is a little tough, however in that case there is some changes he could have made. He designed the case himself, he could have/should have added venting between the rads, He should have used EK XE rads instead of those XTXs especially seeing how the XE rads are far better at his fan speeds (the best rads on the market ATM) this would have open up about 20 more MMs between the rads. With the extra space and the venting on the sides he could have added some 80mm fans feeding some fresh air to the rads, the vents on the bottom would also of added some fresh air albeit not much it would have been better.

At the end of the day his build not mine, I just see alot of things he could have done that would have greatly increased performance. Especially seeing how he himself designed the case, so he could have easily done all those things issue free.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Yeah I guess so, green seems like no one is buying.
> 
> And no, my machined holes where not the problem. The leaks weren't coming from them. Not even through the fittings mounted in them. But I could tighten them better with double o-rings.
> 
> The leaks were coming from the flat o-ring and the collar. Except for the tubes I had to remove completely - it was flowing water through the collars - also the ones I made first...
> 
> I actually not totally sure how I solved it, I disassembled everything and put it together. Also added a little glue here and there. May had some uneven force on the flat o-rings.
> 
> I did notice the flat o-rings are extremely critically to a 100% perfect straight hit with the collar, otherwise it would leak. Could be something with the order I mounted them, now I started with the long tubes and took the smaller ones last.


That's what happened to me the first time I tried doing rigid tubing. Tubes weren't flush enough with the flat rubber gasket and dribbled everywhere.

Fortunately, since I have zero faith in my own ability to cut and get things flush and level, that was the first thing I checked, so no problems finding and solving the issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Lets not sugarcoat it jay is cool and I love watching him but he has spread some mis info around just as much as linus. That isn't his fault though and doesn't make him a bad guy no one is perfect and neither of them claim to be experts.
> I know its a rack case and that is a little tough, however in that case there is some changes he could have made. He designed the case himself, he could have/should have added venting between the rads, He should have used EK XE rads instead of those XTXs especially seeing how the XE rads are far better at his fan speeds (the best rads on the market ATM) this would have open up about 20 more MMs between the rads. With the extra space and the venting on the sides he could have added some 80mm fans feeding some fresh air to the rads, the vents on the bottom would also of added some fresh air albeit not much it would have been better.
> 
> At the end of the day his build not mine, I just see alot of things he could have done that would have greatly increased performance. Especially seeing how he himself designed the case, so he could have easily done all those things issue free.


A lot of it has to do with the thickness of the rad and fan settings. If you are using thinner rads and have the fans set high, then it's no big deal as the amount of heat being dumped into the air is nominal with it moving so fast over a small area. Now if you have your fans set low on thick and beefy rads, then it can be problematic.

I was using 1 intake, 1 exhaust style rads in my desk. (both set to intake caused a whistling noise as I couldn't get enough port holes put into it.) Those 1080's are fairly thin, around 40mm I believe, and I had 4 Silverstone AP 182 fans set to the intake moving the air across the first rad fairly quickly, so the temp difference between the air coming in and inside was nominal.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> It's finally up and running, an hour with both loops at maximum - and what I can see - no leaks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it seems like actually I got a crack in the lock collar, I will get a picture for you later, it's very visible.
> 
> My friends scares me off "you might be cool for now, but in a few weeks you will have a fountain again when collars cracks".
> 
> I am happy for now at least. And thanks to all of you for your support!!!


YAY GO GREEN AND WHITE THINGY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> YAY GO GREEN AND WHITE THINGY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Mmm, greeen, tasty....


----------



## BoxGods

Green and orange are not bad together either =)


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Green and orange are not bad together either =)


nope it sure ain't : )


----------



## ruffhi

I don't know if this means anything ... but, apparently, you only get 5 tension bars if you order the 50mm Chrome set.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Green and orange are not bad together either =)


You realize that's basically half way to completing a desk build, right?

2 more of those for rads, a sheet of acrylic or tempered glass for the top, throw in a couple legs, and done.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> You realize that's basically half way to completing a desk build, right?
> 
> 2 more of those for rads, a sheet of acrylic or tempered glass for the top, throw in a couple legs, and done.


If you look close the mount in the center will have 1 more.


----------



## fast_fate

MMRS D5 BADASSEDNESS


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> If you look close the mount in the center will have 1 more.


Correct. That picture is from a mod I designed for Nvidia that they presented to the game studio as a gift at the launch party. We machined all the metal parts for the spinning chain gun in the center and the structure, (there are aluminum arms that hold a pair of displays also) and we cut the acrylic parts and the wood parts for the bending buck. Darth Bevis put it all together.

The three round bio-hazard face plates are double wall and filled with water and have air bubblers. The Chain Gun spins up and has laser pointer red dots in each barrel. When the gun is stopped there are 6 red dots--when it spins they become a "Ring of Pain" =)

You can read more about it here:

http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/nvidia-presents-the-duke-nukem-forever-pc-mod


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> If you look close the mount in the center will have 1 more.
> 
> 
> 
> Correct. That picture is from a mod I designed for Nvidia that they presented to the game studio as a gift at the launch party. We machined all the metal parts for the spinning chain gun in the center and the structure, (there are aluminum arms that hold a pair of displays also) and we cut the acrylic parts and the wood parts for the bending buck. Darth Bevis put it all together.
> 
> The three round bio-hazard face plates are double wall and filled with water and have air bubblers. The Chain Gun spins up and has laser pointer red dots in each barrel. When the gun is stopped there are 6 red dots--when it spins they become a "Ring of Pain" =)
> 
> You can read more about it here:
> 
> http://www.geforce.com/whats-new/articles/nvidia-presents-the-duke-nukem-forever-pc-mod[s/]
Click to expand...

Don't click that link yo!









I know Geno didn't mean to post a spam link but my phone got spam bombed the second it redirected.









~Ceadeer


----------



## Deedaz

I had no trouble with the link on my computer.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I had no trouble with the link on my computer.


Yeah got home and it works on my laptop. So I figure that Android phones have issues with it. Can't say about other phone OSes but my Galaxy IV was being assaulted, Good thing banking info is not stored on it or I would worry about it.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

Hey Gene whats the word on the new CCFL that go inside the res. any date yet?


----------



## BoxGods

No firm date yet...I will update when I know more. I know that is not what you wanted to hear--sorry =(


----------



## jincuteguy

So can I still use other brand hardline fittings like the Bitspower Enhance fittings with these new Reservoir and molded D5 from Monsoon? thx.


----------



## BlackIce05

I would think they used the standard G1/4 so you should be able to use the majority of the fittings on the market.


----------



## DaClownie

I'm about to put together my order for Monsoon hardline fittings and tubing and what not... but I have a question... Smaller tubing can make tighter bends, correct? I'm doing a dual 240mm radiator build in a Air 240 case, so some of the areas I'll be working in are rather tight. Also, all hardline fittings sets come with the lock collars, correct? And do the 6 packs come with the lock collar adhesive? or do I need to buy that seperately?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> No firm date yet...I will update when I know more. I know that is not what you wanted to hear--sorry =(


Naw thats fine what i don't wanna here is my ex wife and her family are moving back in !!!!!!!!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackIce05*
> 
> I would think they used the standard G1/4 so you should be able to use the majority of the fittings on the market.


Correct--industry standard G 1/4 threads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I'm about to put together my order for Monsoon hardline fittings and tubing and what not... but I have a question... Smaller tubing can make tighter bends, correct? I'm doing a dual 240mm radiator build in a Air 240 case, so some of the areas I'll be working in are rather tight. Also, all hardline fittings sets come with the lock collars, correct? And do the 6 packs come with the lock collar adhesive? or do I need to buy that seperately?


The difference in bend ID radius between the two sizes in insignificant at best. One thing I try to remind people who are working in tight case of is that you do not have to go directly from point to point. What I mean by that is if you have two ports that you want to connect that are too close together for a single bend or a nice looking series of bends, rout the tube out into a bigger nearby space to make your bends and then route it back to the other port. It is easier to assemble the loops that way and will almost always look MUCH better. Remember--the tube bends to YOUR will. The fitting sets do come with lock collars and you can buy extra collars--I suggest you do and extra tube as well because you will bork your first bend or two and it never fails that as you are adding tube in you will want to change some of them as the build "develops". The adhesive is sold separately as it has a use shelf life of 12 months so selling it on its own means it is always fresh.

If you have not already watched our working with hard tube tutorials you really should: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Naw thats fine what i don't wanna here is my ex wife and her family are moving back in !!!!!!!!


Shiver...I have one or two of those =)


----------



## DaClownie

I'm actually watching them all again now for the second time. First time was the glazing over and watching you do amazing work time, now it's learning time.

I'm going with smaller tube because with the small case it feels appropriate. I'm ordering 2 packs of 4-36" pieces of tubing to do a small small case. planning for worst case scenario here, as well as 6 extra collars.

I guess my final questions for you concerning all this... what's the difference between acrylic and PETG (I know acrylic is more likely to shatter, but that's all I know) and also i'm planning on using a clear cooling fluid... previously I'd just used distilled water with PT nuke (which i still have a bottle of). What would you recommend for a clear fluid to use with your products?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I'm actually watching them all again now for the second time. First time was the glazing over and watching you do amazing work time, now it's learning time.
> 
> I'm going with smaller tube because with the small case it feels appropriate. I'm ordering 2 packs of 4-36" pieces of tubing to do a small small case. planning for worst case scenario here, as well as 6 extra collars.
> 
> I guess my final questions for you concerning all this... what's the difference between acrylic and PETG (I know acrylic is more likely to shatter, but that's all I know) and also i'm planning on using a clear cooling fluid... previously I'd just used distilled water with PT nuke (which i still have a bottle of). What would you recommend for a clear fluid to use with your products?


Acrylic tube is more transparent optically, but not in any meaningful way you can see with the human eye. It is harder and therefore more brittle as you mentioned. It's only real advantage over PETG (at least IMO) is that it can be polished if you scratch it. I don't really feel like that is enough of a reason to recommend it for first time tube benders--you should go with PETG as it is a lot more forgiving when reheated and rebent several times.

On Fluids I am pretty old school. Pure distilled is impossible to beat for thermal performance and ease of use. The PT Nuke is fine but you can use less because the barbs are antimicrobial silver.


----------



## DaClownie

Where I'll be using your white tubing and not using transparent tube, PETG is fine then?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Where I'll be using your white tubing and not using transparent tube, PETG is fine then?


Yes. The only advantage acrylic has is that you can polish out scratches, (not as useful on white tube as scratches don't really show).

In general builders are more likely to break acrylic tube than they are to scratch PETG. In the grand scheme of things a little scratch in PETG that you can't polish out might annoy you. A cracked or broken tube in acrylic is obviously much worse on balance.


----------



## rathar3

Its Friday so here is another little pearl of wisdom for Gene

The pipe is one of the greatest inventions made by man. It gives a wise man time to think. And a fool something to stick in their mouth


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Its Friday so here is another little pearl of wisdom for Gene
> 
> The pipe is one of the greatest inventions made by man. It gives a wise man time to think. And a fool something to stick in their mouth


Moral of the story?

Real men don't use straws.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

LOL


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Its Friday so here is another little pearl of wisdom for Gene
> 
> The pipe is one of the greatest inventions made by man. It gives a wise man time to think. And a fool something to stick in their mouth


Plus pipe tobacco smells a LOT better!


----------



## jincuteguy

So I see that the new Modular Reservoir system only have "Black" cap and couplers? I know the reservoir tube and other stuff you guys have different color, but from all the pictures and videos that I've seen, I only see "Black" caps with no hole, 1 hole, and 3 holes. Like you guys don't make Plexi clear ones? thx. I'm asking this because Bitspower have everything in plexi clear as well and it looks really awesome. It would be nice if MOnsoon has those too.


----------



## ruffhi

My reservoir parts have arrived and I have some options that I would like your input on. I went for the 2 x 50mm reactor lime green tubes with everything else being black and white. There are three (3) options regarding the tension rods ...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



there may be more options ... but I can't see them - feel free to make suggestions!



Option 1 - top white and bottom black (left below)
Option 2 - white / black interchanging but looking like one long white (or black) rod (middle below)
Option 3 - white / black interchanging but with the versions offset (right below)












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



BTW - does anyone think that this reservoir looks a little like a dalek?
Ok, maybe not. But does that give anyone ideas of a Dalek reservior?











We also have options for the top and bottom screws ...

Option 1 - all white
Option 2 - all black
Option 3 - black and white
Option 4 - linked to the color of the tension rod


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My reservoir parts have arrived and I have some options that I would like your input on. I went for the 2 x 50mm reactor lime green tubes with everything else being black and white. There are three (3) options regarding the tension rods ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> there may be more options ... but I can't see them - feel free to make suggestions!
> 
> 
> 
> Option 1 - top white and bottom black (left below)
> Option 2 - white / black interchanging but looking like one long white (or black) rod (middle below)
> Option 3 - white / black interchanging but with the versions offset (right below)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - does anyone think that this reservoir looks a little like a dalek?
> Ok, maybe not. But does that give anyone ideas of a Dalek reservior?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We also have options for the top and bottom screws ...
> 
> Option 1 - all white
> Option 2 - all black
> Option 3 - black and white
> Option 4 - linked to the color of the tension rod


You didn't buy the D5 cap to attach the D5 to the Res?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> You didn't buy the D5 cap to attach the D5 to the Res?


No, I will not be adding the pump to the res. The bottom cap is a 3 hole cap and will have 3 tubes exiting the reservoir and feeding the first (or two) pumps. Pumps will be in series.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My reservoir parts have arrived and I have some options that I would like your input on. I went for the 2 x 50mm reactor lime green tubes with everything else being black and white. There are three (3) options regarding the tension rods ...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> there may be more options ... but I can't see them - feel free to make suggestions!
> 
> 
> 
> Option 1 - top white and bottom black (left below)
> Option 2 - white / black interchanging but looking like one long white (or black) rod (middle below)
> Option 3 - white / black interchanging but with the versions offset (right below)
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> BTW - does anyone think that this reservoir looks a little like a dalek?
> Ok, maybe not. But does that give anyone ideas of a Dalek reservior?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We also have options for the top and bottom screws ...
> 
> Option 1 - all white
> Option 2 - all black
> Option 3 - black and white
> Option 4 - linked to the color of the tension rod
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How about black rods and green screws? The white just doesn't seem to go well imo.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> How about black rods and green screws? The white just doesn't seem to go well imo.


Hmm - that might work. Would need to get some more tension rods (a 4th set







) for the screws ... but that is doable. Thanks for the suggestion.

BTW - here is a SketchUp view of the reservoir in the case ...









The inside of the case will all be white while the outside panels will be black.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> No, I will not be adding the pump to the res. The bottom cap is a 3 hole cap and will have 3 tubes exiting the reservoir and feeding the first (or two) pumps. Pumps will be in series.


Nice man. It kinda sucks that Monsoon doesn't sell the Cap in Plexi Clear color or any other color besides Black when they have everything else in multi color.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> No, I will not be adding the pump to the res. The bottom cap is a 3 hole cap and will have 3 tubes exiting the reservoir and feeding the first (or two) pumps. Pumps will be in series.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice man. It kinda sucks that Monsoon doesn't sell the Cap in Plexi Clear color or any other color besides Black when they have everything else in multi color.
Click to expand...

Boxgods explained that earlier in the thread, there isn't much demand for it and resellers shy away from sku's that sit on the shelf too long. But he did say he would consider white if there was enough demand for it.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> No, I will not be adding the pump to the res. The bottom cap is a 3 hole cap and will have 3 tubes exiting the reservoir and feeding the first (or two) pumps. Pumps will be in series.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice man. It kinda sucks that Monsoon doesn't sell the Cap in Plexi Clear color or any other color besides Black when they have everything else in multi color.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Boxgods explained that earlier in the thread, there isn't much demand for it and resellers shy away from sku's that sit on the shelf too long. But he did say he would consider white if there was enough demand for it.
Click to expand...

Earlier in the thread as well, someone painted their stuff white and it came out fine as long as you mask it off appropriately


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Earlier in the thread as well, someone painted their stuff white and it came out fine as long as you mask it off appropriately


That's weird that there's no demand for clear color for the cap? I see Bitspower are selling them for their reservoir and a lot of ppl have them in their build.

What kind of paint do you use to paint it? Like a small spray bottle ?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Earlier in the thread as well, someone painted their stuff white and it came out fine as long as you mask it off appropriately
> 
> 
> 
> That's weird that there's no demand for clear color for the cap? I see Bitspower are selling them for their reservoir and a lot of ppl have them in their build.
> 
> What kind of paint do you use to paint it? Like a small spray bottle ?
Click to expand...

The whole point of the MMRS is to be different and unique, to break the mold of the typical we see in every build. I personally don't think a clear cap would look good on the MMRS, but that's just me.

With all the whining of copycat products these days and here Monsoon is being asked to copycat another product. I think boxgods knows exactly what he is doing and if he makes it great, but if he doesn't then he probably has a more keen sense than us in his industry


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> The whole point of the MMRS is to be different and unique, to break the mold of the typical we see in every build. I personally don't think a clear cap would look good on the MMRS, but that's just me.
> 
> With all the whining of copycat products these days and here Monsoon is being asked to copycat another product. I think boxgods knows exactly what he is doing and if he makes it great, but if he doesn't then he probably has a more keen sense than us in his industry


Dude it's not copycat, it's about the color availability. Don't get it wrong.

I'm asking for a clear plexi "color", and you think "colo" is copycat? what 's wrong with you.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> The whole point of the MMRS is to be different and unique, to break the mold of the typical we see in every build. I personally don't think a clear cap would look good on the MMRS, but that's just me.
> 
> With all the whining of copycat products these days and here Monsoon is being asked to copycat another product. I think boxgods knows exactly what he is doing and if he makes it great, but if he doesn't then he probably has a more keen sense than us in his industry
> 
> 
> 
> Dude it's not copycat, it's about the color availability. Don't get it wrong.
> 
> I'm asking for a clear plexi "color", and you think "colo" is copycat? what 's wrong with you.
Click to expand...

You've made at least 3 posts saying why doesn't Monsoon do this, the first post was probably enough, and you've thrown Bitspower's name in there twice in what seemed to me like a bashing of Monsoon, maybe it's just the way I took it, but you obviously haven't read through the entire thread to see why they don't make them in other colors as I already mentioned in a previous post. That's my 2 cents about it, nuff said from my point of view.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Dude it's not copycat, it's about the color availability. Don't get it wrong.
> 
> I'm asking for a clear plexi "color", and you think "colo" is copycat? what 's wrong with you.


Clear caps would show the wrench flats and the Silver bolts in couplers pumps, they would be a different material one that isn't as durable and in this reservoirs case that could be a problem.

The biggest reason to use plexi sections is the opposite of your logic, you said because the tubes are colored there should be clear caps. The clear caps are for people that use colored fluid, the reason bits power makes them is to match there clear pump tops, and they make that for colored fluid. The MMRS has colored tubes so you dont have to use Colored Fluid as it is generally best to avoid Dyes.

I think you are giving them a bigger market share then they posses AFAIK the bitspower is the only one that offers this, EK, Alphacool, Koolance ECT none of there reservoirs have clear caps either. Bitspower while a market leader in other depts is pretty much in last place when it comes to reservoirs. I haven't seen a build that used a bitspower reservoir in a very long time. They have gaudy mounting systems and are not very attractive.

I also feel the Plexi reservoir top to be gaudy and not attractive as if you have a clear reservoir then a solid colored cap adds contrast, Clear reservoir caps went out with Acrylic cases, bitspower caps came out when clear acrylic cases were a thing that isn't the market anymore. Its like UV green tubing and UV lights everywhere years ago everyone had that, today practically no one does, The clear caps are the same way.

In other news I figured out what to do with the Reservoir for my bench. I am going to use a different bench (that is basically a slightly raised motherboard tray) and mount the reservoir to the actual Wire shelf unit. I will then have 2 couplers facing towards the back, the 2 bottom ones will go down to the rest of the watercooling, the top 2 will have 90s facing up to act as fill ports.

As for the screw holes I am going to try to find the screw size in a grub screw and a spike that will screw to it. Also @Jiryama I threw a log up since you asked before


----------



## BoxGods

On white end caps. We are actually investigating doing this in a small run as white does seem to have a following. The biggest hurdle is getting the white the same shade from run to run which is much harder to do than you might think--at least harder to do than I thought it would be.

On molding clear acrylic parts. Many years ago I designed a clear molded dual bay reservoir for another company and there were so many issues with cracking. It was a nightmare. MMRS parts are nylon and have a glass reinforcement in the plastics matrix. You could put one of the end caps on your driveway and roll over it with your care--literally--and it would not crack. Think Hockey Puck =)

The comment in an earlier post about trends is also spot on in my view. For a while acrylic cases and massive amounts of UV "Disco" lighting were all the rage. EVERYTHING was UV right down to the fans, molex plugs...you could even get UV acrylic PSU's. That doesn't mean that tastes might not at some point trend back to clear parts and UV--everything old becomes new again in the world of tastes.

I can't wait for low rider skinny jeans and mini skirts to make their next appearance =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Hmm - that might work. Would need to get some more tension rods (a 4th set
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) for the screws ... but that is doable. Thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> BTW - here is a SketchUp view of the reservoir in the case ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The inside of the case will all be white while the outside panels will be black.


If you are passing thru a case divider give the mating kit some thought as it will hopefully work like a bulkhead pass through.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> On white end caps. We are actually investigating doing this in a small run as white does seem to have a following. The biggest hurdle is getting the white the same shade from run to run which is much harder to do than you might think--at least harder to do than I thought it would be.
> 
> On molding clear acrylic parts. Many years ago I designed a clear molded dual bay reservoir for another company and there were so many issues with cracking. It was a nightmare. MMRS parts are nylon and have a glass reinforcement in the plastics matrix. You could put one of the end caps on your driveway and roll over it with your care--literally--and it would not crack. Think Hockey Puck =)
> 
> The comment in an earlier post about trends is also spot on in my view. For a while acrylic cases and massive amounts of UV "Disco" lighting were all the rage. EVERYTHING was UV right down to the fans, molex plugs...you could even get UV acrylic PSU's. That doesn't mean that tastes might not at some point trend back to clear parts and UV--everything old becomes new again in the world of tastes.
> 
> I can't wait for low rider skinny jeans and mini skirts to make their next appearance =)


ME EITHER cause i live in a college town : )


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you are passing thru a case divider give the mating kit some thought as it will hopefully work like a bulkhead pass through.


Thanks for the comment BoxGods. I did look at this but couldn't get it to line up easily (stress on easily) as the gap between top of case and internal bulk head is 227mm.


----------



## Unnatural

Any news on EU distribution?


----------



## jvillaveces

please delete


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You've made at least 3 posts saying why doesn't Monsoon do this, the first post was probably enough, and you've thrown Bitspower's name in there twice in what seemed to me like a bashing of Monsoon, maybe it's just the way I took it, but you obviously haven't read through the entire thread to see why they don't make them in other colors as I already mentioned in a previous post. That's my 2 cents about it, nuff said from my point of view.


Calm down dude, I'm not bashing Monsoon at all. I was just referring to Bitspower as an example, I didn't mean to fire your ignition dude. Like really calm down, this is about discussion and sharing.
So don't misunderstand someone else and think that they're bashing a brand, cause I'm not. In fact, I really like the Monsoon new modular reservoir system, and I'm about to order them from Performance PCs. But I just wanted a different color for the End Cap and Couplers, so I was asking if Monsoon have or are going to make them, and that's all. I didn't bash Monsoon or anything dude.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks for the comment BoxGods. I did look at this but couldn't get it to line up easily (stress on easily) as the gap between top of case and internal bulk head is 227mm.


I was refering to the new mating kits not the FDP...or I misunderstood your point on the 227mm dimension. On the dimension thing for the FDP there is a second FDP cap that has up to 12mm in spacing also just as an FYI.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Any news on EU distribution?


Order form for EU resellers goes out first of the new week so figure them having stock mid to late Feb depending on how quickly they order.


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Order form for EU resellers goes out first of the new week so figure them having stock mid to late Feb depending on how quickly they order.


Great, thanks!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I was refering to the new mating kits not the FDP...or I misunderstood your point on the 227mm dimension. On the dimension thing for the FDP there is a second FDP cap that has up to 12mm in spacing also just as an FYI.


I'm not sure what you mean. Do you have a pic or diagram? I did find this a few 100 posts back ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the joiner ring bit:


----------



## jvillaveces

I just finished my first hard tubing build. It's an HTPC in a Steiger Dynamics LEET case. I expected a steep learning curve with hard tubing, and my choice of case didn't make things easier! I had to make the tightest bend 7 different times!

I used Monsoon PETG tubing (1/2" 5/8") and loved the stuff, along with the cutting and bending kits, and loved those too. I also used free center compression fittings, and I can't say enough bad things about the blasted little doodads. My problems started (more accurately, were discovered) when leak testing, because every single fitting leaked.

- When the loop was completed, I put my air-test gizmo on the res top and pressurized. As soon as it got to 2 psi, I found two loudly hissing leaks. Checking them, I found that the lock collars were cracked, because my bends weren't quite perfect and they were putting stress on the fittings. So, I redid those bends, much better fitting this time around. By the way, when I was first making my bends, I had already cracked a couple of lock collars because I knocked a tube to the floor. By now, I was out of the collars that came with my fittings, so I used some spares I had bought just in case. Apparently the stock collars were acrylic and the replacements were polycarbonate, because I "test-banged" them on my bench before gluing them on and they were unaffected.

- Pressurize again, to 5 psi, and the pressure starts to slowly drop. A little soapy water on each fitting, and they all bubbled up, including the ones I had just replaced! I checked the first fitting, right out of the pump, and it was missing the compression gasket, which somehow got dislodged when I was tubing up the connection. This prompted me to re-check every fitting, and I found two more missing gaskets, which I replaced -- good thing there are plenty extra. The originals were all in the floor of the case, where I hadn't spotted them because they're black and so is the case. So, chalk this batch of leaks to user error. The LEET case is very tight, and it's very easy to inadvertently knock the little gaskets off when maneuvering the tubes to screw on the fittings.

- With the missing gaskets replaced, some of those same links were still bubbling up with the air test, along with all the others, which were now re-snugged, and had been checked for o-rings and gaskets. So, I fully removed one of the tubes to inspect it and the fitting more closely, and the lock collar came right off!! The glue had either failed or not cured properly. By the way, this explained the rest of the failures, all the lock collars were loose. I had read somewhere that the shelf life of the glue is one year, so I assumed that, since I had received old lock collars from ppcs, I might have received some old glue as well, so I chucked the glue I had in use and opened a new one. I took the opportunity to get rid of all the original collars and replaced them with the good ones. This time, apparently the glue held, because I couldn't tear the re-glued collars off no matter how hard I pulled.

Finally, time to fill with water and do a wet leak test. Well, that didn't work either. My D5 pump is dead -- it just emits a faint hum, but doesn't move any fluid. Now it's down to waiting for a new pump to arrive. In the meantime, the loop remains full of distilled water, and, so far no new leaks.

I loved the soft tubing free center fittings and had used them in both my previous watercooled rigs. That, plus the idea of the added safety provided by the lock collar, were my reasons for going with them. But after all my adventures, I think they are actually a bad idea. I experienced every possible way they can fail, and there are just too many: the gaskets are finicky; the lock collars are temperamental; there is close to zero tolerance for bends that are off by a millimeter or so; the stupid glue may or may not work as expected. They look good, and are as beautifully machined and finished as everything Monsoon, but there are just too many potential points and modes of failure. If some products are user-friendly, then these fittings are downright user-hostile.

It is not my intent to bash Geno or Monsoon. I admire Geno's willingness to help customers and stand up for his products, and I love Monsoon products for their innovation, design and quality. But those stupid fittings really need to be taken outside and shot.

I didn't know whether to post this here or open a separate thread, but since this is sort of becoming a de-facto Monsson Products Club I decided to keep it here.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I just finished my first hard tubing build. It's an HTPC in a Steiger Dynamics LEET case. I expected a steep learning curve with hard tubing, and my choice of case didn't make things easier! I had to make the tightest bend 7 different times!
> 
> I used Monsoon PETG tubing (1/2" 5/8") and loved the stuff, along with the cutting and bending kits, and loved those too. I also used free center compression fittings, and I can't say enough bad things about the blasted little doodads. My problems started (more accurately, were discovered) when leak testing, because every single fitting leaked.
> 
> - When the loop was completed, I put my air-test gizmo on the res top and pressurized. As soon as it got to 2 psi, I found two loudly hissing leaks. Checking them, I found that the lock collars were cracked, because my bends weren't quite perfect and they were putting stress on the fittings. So, I redid those bends, much better fitting this time around. By the way, when I was first making my bends, I had already cracked a couple of lock collars because I knocked a tube to the floor. By now, I was out of the collars that came with my fittings, so I used some spares I had bought just in case. Apparently the stock collars were acrylic and the replacements were polycarbonate, because I "test-banged" them on my bench before gluing them on and they were unaffected.
> 
> - Pressurize again, to 5 psi, and the pressure starts to slowly drop. A little soapy water on each fitting, and they all bubbled up, including the ones I had just replaced! I checked the first fitting, right out of the pump, and it was missing the compression gasket, which somehow got dislodged when I was tubing up the connection. This prompted me to re-check every fitting, and I found two more missing gaskets, which I replaced -- good thing there are plenty extra. The originals were all in the floor of the case, where I hadn't spotted them because they're black and so is the case. So, chalk this batch of leaks to user error. The LEET case is very tight, and it's very easy to inadvertently knock the little gaskets off when maneuvering the tubes to screw on the fittings.
> 
> - With the missing gaskets replaced, some of those same links were still bubbling up with the air test, along with all the others, which were now re-snugged, and had been checked for o-rings and gaskets. So, I fully removed one of the tubes to inspect it and the fitting more closely, and the lock collar came right off!! The glue had either failed or not cured properly. By the way, this explained the rest of the failures, all the lock collars were loose. I had read somewhere that the shelf life of the glue is one year, so I assumed that, since I had received old lock collars from ppcs, I might have received some old glue as well, so I chucked the glue I had in use and opened a new one. I took the opportunity to get rid of all the original collars and replaced them with the good ones. This time, apparently the glue held, because I couldn't tear the re-glued collars off no matter how hard I pulled.
> 
> Finally, time to fill with water and do a wet leak test. Well, that didn't work either. My D5 pump is dead -- it just emits a faint hum, but doesn't move any fluid. Now it's down to waiting for a new pump to arrive. In the meantime, the loop remains full of distilled water, and, so far no new leaks.
> 
> I loved the soft tubing free center fittings and had used them in both my previous watercooled rigs. That, plus the idea of the added safety provided by the lock collar, were my reasons for going with them. But after all my adventures, I think they are actually a bad idea. I experienced every possible way they can fail, and there are just too many: the gaskets are finicky; the lock collars are temperamental; there is close to zero tolerance for bends that are off by a millimeter or so; the stupid glue may or may not work as expected. They look good, and are as beautifully machined and finished as everything Monsoon, but there are just too many potential points and modes of failure. If some products are user-friendly, then these fittings are downright user-hostile.
> 
> It is not my intent to bash Geno or Monsoon. I admire Geno's willingness to help customers and stand up for his products, and I love Monsoon products for their innovation, design and quality. But those stupid fittings really need to be taken outside and shot.
> 
> I didn't know whether to post this here or open a separate thread, but since this is sort of becoming a de-facto Monsson Products Club I decided to keep it here.


Man that sucks, sorry to here that. Glad you got it solved and yes glue and fittings is in my experience never good. Which sucks because I like those fittings especially as they match the reservoir.

However I have had glued fittings, The MMTs version of monsoons free centers (the carbon fiber ones), Well there "Glue" Almost cost me a PC. I wasn't home and the collars busted under the bends pressure 3 of them in one day. I came home to a soaked case with a pool of water in the bottom, luckily they were all lower side fittings, and my PC shut off due to temps. If they had been on the top rad I may have lost everything.

So after tearing the loop apart and checked the other fittings, without fail I was able to easily pull them apart some of them feel apart when removing them! The fittings are in use again today, I took them all apart and jb welded them together with a bunch of JB weld. After doing the intial connection I put JB on a scalpel blade and made a thick build up. Painted the jb black and they have been good, and MMT claims its Aero space glue holding them together, I sure hope not or we are going to have a lot of dead astronauts.

I don't think monsoon makes those though, if you do Geno use better glue. I could write off one falling apart but 3 did in the same day. However the others pulled apart 12 of them in total. The tube was very bad sizing from primochill as it was very hard to put on any compression's however they failed after a month. Since my mod they have worked with the same batch of tube without breaking, gotta love JB







.

Of course the jb may have failed too if I didn't cake it on. Its hard to explain if you have never seen the fittings inside. There is a ring on the top and a ring on the bottom those rings have a few mms that slides into the carbon fiber ring. What I did is pull them apart put a little jb around the outside of the inner ring and slide them together. Then there is a gap between the inner rings that shows the inside of the carbon fiber I caked that with JB weld until it was level and looks solid piece now. So the JB not only holds them to the carbon but to each other.

There was much better way to make those fittings, however maybe not doable for them. I would have machined the fittings first solid metal all the way through, and then Layed up the rings around the fitting instead of using the carbon as a support.

Another option would have been to machine the compression's all the way except the top ring been reduced shaved like the center the rings then slipped on and the top cover glued. Especially seeing how I have heard a lot of people have the same problem with those fittings falling apart. If you do not get what I mean by this the fitting would be fully functional without the ring or the "Top Cover" it would be a little thicker, but it would not break.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Snip Snap!
> 
> 
> 
> Clear caps would show the wrench flats and the Silver bolts in couplers pumps, they would be a different material one that isn't as durable and in this reservoirs case that could be a problem.
> 
> The biggest reason to use plexi sections is the opposite of your logic, you said because the tubes are colored there should be clear caps. The clear caps are for people that use colored fluid, the reason bits power makes them is to match there clear pump tops, and they make that for colored fluid. The MMRS has colored tubes so you dont have to use Colored Fluid as it is generally best to avoid Dyes.
> 
> I think you are giving them a bigger market share then they posses AFAIK the bitspower is the only one that offers this, EK, Alphacool, Koolance ECT none of there reservoirs have clear caps either. Bitspower while a market leader in other depts is pretty much in last place when it comes to reservoirs. I haven't seen a build that used a bitspower reservoir in a very long time. They have gaudy mounting systems and are not very attractive.
> 
> I also feel the Plexi reservoir top to be gaudy and not attractive as if you have a clear reservoir then a solid colored cap adds contrast, Clear reservoir caps went out with Acrylic cases, bitspower caps came out when clear acrylic cases were a thing that isn't the market anymore. Its like UV green tubing and UV lights everywhere years ago everyone had that, today practically no one does, The clear caps are the same way.
> 
> In other news I figured out what to do with the Reservoir for my bench. I am going to use a different bench (that is basically a slightly raised motherboard tray) and mount the reservoir to the actual Wire shelf unit. I will then have 2 couplers facing towards the back, the 2 bottom ones will go down to the rest of the watercooling, the top 2 will have 90s facing up to act as fill ports.
> 
> As for the screw holes I am going to try to find the screw size in a grub screw and a spike that will screw to it.
> 
> 
> Also @Jiryama I threw a log up since you asked before


Ok, awesome! I will definitely go take a look at that. Read about your new bench idea and mounting for the MMRS to an appealing appearance, can't want to see it done and in action!


----------



## eucalyptus

Well, I had problems with mu free center fittings too. But the glue works very good! How do you "cure" it?

I use a 2 bucks UV led light from Ebay, I think it has 7 or 10 UV 5mm leds inside, just put it a few centimeter from your glued collar, switch angle after 2-3 minutes and it's solid as a rock - IMPOSSIBLE to take off.


----------



## Unnatural

I've got a UV "mini-oven" for fingernail polish curing since it was very cheap, do you think it could work for the UV glue?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> When the loop was completed, I put my air-test gizmo on the res top and pressurized.


Glad that you were testing your loop the correct way for leaks....









Your little pressure tester may have possibly saved you a few dollars in water logged hardware...!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> I've got a UV "mini-oven" for fingernail polish curing since it was very cheap, do you think it could work for the UV glue?


No, that's too weak! I talked to Geno about this earlier. People complained about their glue wasn't cured enough - reason was they used finger nail uv stuff.

Just grab a UV led flashlight from Ebay







Mine cost 2 bucks and works like a charm. If you want to on the even more safe side, just buy one with more led diodes, think there is some with 25 led diodes for 10 usd


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> No, that's too weak! I talked to Geno about this earlier. People complained about their glue wasn't cured enough - reason was they used finger nail uv stuff.
> 
> Just grab a UV led flashlight from Ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine cost 2 bucks and works like a charm. If you want to on the even more safe side, just buy one with more led diodes, think there is some with 25 led diodes for 10 usd


Ouch! At least I have a friend who needs it for the proper use









You mean something like this?



Thanks for warning me


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Well, I had problems with mu free center fittings too. But the glue works very good! How do you "cure" it?
> 
> I use a 2 bucks UV led light from Ebay, I think it has 7 or 10 UV 5mm leds inside, just put it a few centimeter from your glued collar, switch angle after 2-3 minutes and it's solid as a rock - IMPOSSIBLE to take off.


I got this from Amazon, and put the tube/fitting assemblies in there for two minutes. When I saw the failures, the glue was in a gel-like state, and could be scraped off the tube with a fingernail and a paper towel. Maybe the UV light was too weak, or I didn't let the glue cook long enough. With the second batch I did get the expected results.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Ouch! At least I have a friend who needs it for the proper use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You mean something like this?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for warning me


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I got this from Amazon, and put the tube/fitting assemblies in there for two minutes. When I saw the failures, the glue was in a gel-like state, and could be scraped off the tube with a fingernail and a paper towel. Maybe the UV light was too weak, or I didn't let the glue cook long enough. With the second batch I did get the expected results.


I got this one. 1 usd, and works like a charm for me







there is some flashlights with more led diodes, maybe is better, I don't know.

But this one works, with Monsoon glue, collars and tube


----------



## BoxGods

I am not sure why you guys don't just use sunlight? Take the parts outside and expose them to the suns UV rays for about five minutes and you are all set. Flip them over once to make sure both sides are exposed well.

It does NOT need to be direct sun light either. If it is an over cast day just give them a few minutes extra. The little finger nail polish drying lights do NOT work.

Again, just take the out into the sunshine as a bonus it is free =)


----------



## Unnatural

Well, for me it's a combination of these factors:
- my house is trapped between taller buildings, and it's oriented the worst possible way to catch sunlight;
- it's winter, so I have even fewer hours available, and the weather it's unpredictable;
- even if I catch the right moment, I should take the tubings outside to get a decent amount of sunlight, and frankly I don't want to work with dust, gnats and other insects around


----------



## BoxGods

...you do not need to physically go outside. A window will work fine. You do not even need to open the window if bugs are a problem...


----------



## Unnatural

As I was trying to explain earlier, I can't really do it from my window, without rushing, since I don't get much sunlight from there.
A lamp/flashlight/whatever would allow me to operate anytime, taking all the time I need.









BTW, doesn't modern window glass filter most UV radiations?


----------



## Iceman2733

Can i ask where a person can find the reservoirs with the D5 pumps like in the ORG post. I have looked at Performance-pcs and a few other places cant find them.

NVM wasn't showing up when looking under res actually had to type in monoon cooling mmrs... sorry for the idiot post there.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am not sure why you guys don't just use sunlight? Take the parts outside and expose them to the suns UV rays for about five minutes and you are all set. Flip them over once to make sure both sides are exposed well.
> 
> It does NOT need to be direct sun light either. If it is an over cast day just give them a few minutes extra. The little finger nail polish drying lights do NOT work.
> 
> Again, just take the out into the sunshine as a bonus it is free =)


I work during the day, so most of my PC building takes place in the evening. I didn't try curing them by moonlight, but that approach didn't seem too promising, so it was either artificial UV source or wait until the weekend, and I've never been known as the champion of waiting!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> Can i ask where a person can find the reservoirs with the D5 pumps like in the ORG post. I have looked at Performance-pcs and a few other places cant find them.
> 
> NVM wasn't showing up when looking under res actually had to type in monoon cooling mmrs... sorry for the idiot post there.


Not an idiot post =)

I have noticed that the search feature on most reseller sites are usually not all that great for some reason.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> ...you do not need to physically go outside. A window will work fine. You do not even need to open the window if bugs are a problem...


Doesn't most household glass effectively block most uv light?


----------



## Brunoper

Hey guys I am having an issue with my monsoon D5 cover. I can't fully tighten it, as soon as I do it my pump won't spin from pressure against it.



That's the most I could tighten it without making my pump stop. Clearly it will leak.



I could see the pump scraping against the cast and that is why my pump won't work.



As anyone experienced this? Any suggestions?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Hey guys I am having an issue with my monsoon D5 cover. I can't fully tighten it, as soon as I do it my pump won't spin from pressure against it.
> 
> 
> 
> That's the most I could tighten it without making my pump stop. Clearly it will leak.
> 
> 
> 
> I could see the pump scraping against the cast and that is why my pump won't work.
> 
> As anyone experienced this? Any suggestions?


With the seal in place - that gap looks OK when the cover is done up with the seal in the correct place.

Where is the pump seal ?
are you placing it in the pump top ? - which is where it should be for installing the pump.
and then placing the pump down into the top (onto the seal)

Monsoon should consider putting a little note on where to place the seal because no instructions are provided with the MMRS-SAP.
The end user is left to guess if the seal goes on the pump shoulder or into the top.
You have to stretch the seal to fit on the pump, so it is logical for experienced D5 users it should go into the top.
BUT not all users (new & experienced) will realize this and could be a cause for incorrect assembly.


----------



## Brunoper

[quote name="fast_fate" url="/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/1200#post_
With the seal in place - that gap looks OK when the cover is done up with the seal in the correct place.

Where is the pump seal ?
are you placing it in the pump top ? - which is where it should be for installing the pump.
and then placing the pump down into the top (onto the seal)

Monsoon should consider putting a little note on where to place the seal because no instructions are provided with the MMRS-SAP.
The end user is left to guess if the seal goes on the pump shoulder or into the top.
You have to stretch the seal to fit on the pump, so it is logical for experienced D5 users it should go into the top.
BUT not all users (new & experienced) will realize this and could be a cause for incorrect assembly.

 [/quote]

SON OF A GUN. That is why? I sure hoped Monsoon would put some kind of note. I had to re-arrange my loop, and let's not forget how many headaches this crap gave me. After properly installing it this time I still have a big gap, I hope it is OK.


----------



## BoxGods

There is an installation video on the store page where you bought the pump.


----------



## fast_fate

The "gap" in the Monsoon video is much larger than in my picture.
So I wouldn't get too worried just yet.
See just after the 4 minute mark in the video for the "gap"
BUT
It is worth watching the whole thing if you have not already done so


----------



## Brunoper

There is a video however, it did not show pump installation only MMRS Reservoir building. In addition, since the O-Ring in the pumps go around the pump and not in the pump top it is not the very first thing one thinks of when your pump doesn't work. A simple piece of paper illustrating installation would cost them a few cents and it would be helpful.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> SON OF A GUN. That is why? I sure hoped Monsoon would put some kind of note. I had to re-arrange my loop, and let's not forget how many headaches this crap gave me. After properly installing it this time I still have a big gap, I hope it is OK.


I have a big gap in mine to. But that is due to the fact i used the XSPC o ring which is thicker than the one that comes with the MMRS pump housing. I cut the one that came with the pump due to not paying attention to what i was doing BLEH!!!

Make sure u have EXTRA o rings for everything


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> There is a video however, it did not show pump installation only MMRS Reservoir building. In addition, since the O-Ring in the pumps go around the pump and not in the pump top it is not the very first thing one thinks of when your pump doesn't work. A simple piece of paper illustrating installation would cost them a few cents and it would be helpful.


See the post above yours for the video. The O ring fits exactly the same way it does in the stock D5.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> I have a big gap in mine to. But that is due to the fact i used the XSPC o ring which is thicker than the one that comes with the MMRS pump housing. I cut the one that came with the pump due to not paying attention to what i was doing BLEH!!!
> 
> Make sure u have EXTRA o rings for everything


Do you have a p icture your system running with the new Modular REservoir System? including the pump? thx. I just can't find anyone that post a picture with their whole system lighting up with the new Monsoon MRS.


----------



## Brunoper

Yes now I see the video, however like I said I never thought that was the problem. In addition, my first time running a D5 and I only bought the pump therefore not sure how the o-ring when in. I always used the MCP655 which had a bigger O-ring that wen around the pump. Thank you for your help.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Yes now I see the video, however like I said I never thought that was the problem. In addition, my first time running a D5 and I only bought the pump therefore not sure how the o-ring when in. I always used the MCP655 which had a bigger O-ring that wen around the pump. Thank you for your help.


Happy to help. If you have any other problems just email me and I will get you squared away ASAP =)


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you have a p icture your system running with the new Modular REservoir System? including the pump? thx. I just can't find anyone that post a picture with their whole system lighting up with the new Monsoon MRS.


Ya its in my pics here is some


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> 
> 
> Ya its in my pics here is some


NIce, thx for the pictures man. Why don't you attach the D5 Pump to the Res? just wondering why are you running them separate

Also, is it better to get the D5 Vario Pump (one with different speed dial) or get the D5 Pump PWM? and what is the different between these 2? anyone can give me some infos? thx.


----------



## Iceman2733

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Also, is it better to get the D5 Vario Pump (one with different speed dial) or get the D5 Pump PWM? and what is the different between these 2? anyone can give me some infos? thx.


One pump is controlled by a speed dial on the back of the pump (Vario) the other is controlled via PWM signal from the motherboard. Both have there own advantage and disadvantage depending on what your needs are of them


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iceman2733*
> 
> One pump is controlled by a speed dial on the back of the pump (Vario) the other is controlled via PWM signal from the motherboard. Both have there own advantage and disadvantage depending on what your needs are of them


OH I see, but what are the advantages and disadvantages? Isn't PWM is always better? Cause once your system is running you can control it on the desktop and dont have to open up your pc?


----------



## xerythul

I know this is way late but what's all the business about installing the o-ring onto the pump itself? I just set mine in the only channel it fits into into the pump top and screwed that sucker on, zero issues.

Side note, I know I keep saying this but I'm planning on doing a build log post soon, until then here is another little taste of that monsoon sweetness.......


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> I know this is way late but what's all the business about installing the o-ring onto the pump itself? I just set mine in the only channel it fits into into the pump top and screwed that sucker on, zero issues.
> 
> Side note, I know I keep saying this but I'm planning on doing a build log post soon, until then here is another little taste of that monsoon sweetness.......


Nice and you installed the pump correctly.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> NIce, thx for the pictures man. Why don't you attach the D5 Pump to the Res? just wondering why are you running them separate
> 
> Also, is it better to get the D5 Vario Pump (one with different speed dial) or get the D5 Pump PWM? and what is the different between these 2? anyone can give me some infos? thx.


This was my first ever custom waterloop so i wanted everything separate from each other for trouble shooting. Also and it might seem kinda silly but for several years i was mechanic/pipefitter in a papermill we had both types of pumps what we called pedestal just like the MMRS with the pump on the res and they were the most horrid things to work on. You had to hang upside down to do anything
Glands tended to leak more and seal water was always plugging up. So i just like the stand alone type its just me.

As for the D5 pump i have the xspc with the speed control its set to 2 and i have no issues. Just remember that it will speed up and slow down a lot if you go with a PWM.I just didn't want the pump speed cycling every time temps changed. All my fans are running in pwm mode and my pump is on cpu fan 2 so i get a speed reading and if it fails i will get an alarm.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I don't know if this means anything ... but, apparently, you only get 5 tension bars if you order the 50mm Chrome set.


Sorry I'm late to respond here, not been keeping up very well. I ordered the 50mm chrome tensions rods from PPCS on 10/26/2015 and got 6 tension rods, 12 screws, and 2 allen wrenches:



If they only sent 5 tension rods I'd email them so they can straighten that out for ya.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I don't know if this means anything ... but, apparently, you only get 5 tension bars if you order the 50mm Chrome set.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm late to respond here, not been keeping up very well. I ordered the 50mm chrome tensions rods from PPCS on 10/26/2015 and got 6 tension rods, 12 screws, and 2 allen wrenches:
> 
> 
> 
> If they only sent 5 tension rods I'd email them so they can straighten that out for ya.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mystriss. My comment was more of a joke as the picture at PPCS only shows 5 tension rods.

Speaking of tension rods, they, or more accurately the paper wrapping around each rod, is the most frustrating part of putting the reservoir together. It took me a good 15 minutes to unwrap the 12 tension rods (2 x 50mm sets) that I had and I am pretty sure the paint was starting to peel of the room with my language.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I don't know if this means anything ... but, apparently, you only get 5 tension bars if you order the 50mm Chrome set.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry I'm late to respond here, not been keeping up very well. I ordered the 50mm chrome tensions rods from PPCS on 10/26/2015 and got 6 tension rods, 12 screws, and 2 allen wrenches:
> 
> 
> 
> If they only sent 5 tension rods I'd email them so they can straighten that out for ya.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks Mystriss. My comment was more of a joke as the picture at PPCS only shows 5 tension rods.
> 
> Speaking of tension rods, they, or more accurately the paper wrapping around each rod, is the most frustrating part of putting the reservoir together. It took me a good 15 minutes to unwrap the 12 tension rods (2 x 50mm sets) that I had and I am pretty sure the paint was starting to peel of the room with my language.
Click to expand...

Hey I would rather have too much packaging than not enough. The finish on my rods was immaculate when I unwrapped them!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Hey I would rather have too much packaging than not enough. The finish on my rods was immaculate when I unwrapped them!


I agree with some wrapping to protect the finish ... but don't fold the ends down so hard ... leave them 'messy' so that you have something to hold on to and tear off. The difficulty I encountered was that I couldn't get the 'tear' started. Once you managed to tease an opening, it came off easy enough.


----------



## djchup

Following up on my previous posts of my leaky D5 TRP endcap, all of my problems were resolved after I received my package from BoxGods with my replacement TRP part (with the correct screws _).

Anyways all is well and I'm happy now. Idle temps in the high-20's and load temps in the high-30's.

I'll take some better quality pics of my rig once I have time to clean up the wiring but here's a teaser for now.
_


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> Following up on my previous posts of my leaky D5 TRP endcap, all of my problems were resolved after I received my package from BoxGods with my replacement TRP part (with the correct screws _).
> 
> Anyways all is well and I'm happy now. Idle temps in the high-20's and load temps in the high-30's.
> 
> I'll take some better quality pics of my rig once I have time to clean up the wiring but here's a teaser for now.
> _


WOOT nice. Glad it all worked out. That is a nice looking rig to


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I agree with some wrapping to protect the finish ... but don't fold the ends down so hard ... leave them 'messy' so that you have something to hold on to and tear off. The difficulty I encountered was that I couldn't get the 'tear' started. Once you managed to tease an opening, it came off easy enough.


We wrap the tension rods individually to protect the finish. The 50mm long rods are a bit of a PITA to unwrap but the 5 longer sizes are a fair bit easier as there is more room for the little band of tape. Just grasp towards each end and twist in opposite directions and the wrapping will unravel or loosen then you can open it like a straw.

One of the problems I wanted to avoid with a modular system is packaging cost. If you have selected 5 or 6 components to build your reservoir that is the cost of 5 or 6 packages vs one if it was an assembled reservoir. The tissue on the tension rods is not ideal but it protects them and keeps packaging costs down.


----------



## xerythul

I love that the product itself is so amazing the only complaints I have seen are the packaging? Sounds good to me! ;-)


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Sorry I'm late to respond here, not been keeping up very well. I ordered the 50mm chrome tensions rods from PPCS on 10/26/2015 and got 6 tension rods, 12 screws, and 2 allen wrenches:
> 
> 
> 
> If they only sent 5 tension rods I'd email them so they can straighten that out for ya.


What are these chrome tensions rods use for?


----------



## ruffhi

I recently got burnt by picking up some Bitspower rotary 90° adapter (with connector) only to find that they didn't work with the Monsoon hardline tube [3/8" x 1/2"] as the Bitspower required tubing that was 10/12mm while the monsoon tubing is imperial (ie inches).

I'm swapping to the Bitspower rotary 90° adapter (sans connector) and planning to use Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fittings [1/2" x 5/8"].

The questions I have are ...


Can I use the Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fitting [1/2" x 5/8"] fittings for soft tubing?

If so, which version of the soft tubing works best?

Is PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing [3/8"x 1/2"] a viable option?

If the word 'HardLine' in the fitting actually means something (ie not soft line), then what sort of monsoon fitting works best? / well? for flexible tubing?


----------



## djchup

If I were you I'd get the matching-size monsoon 90 degree adapter instead of that bitspower one. I have that bitspower adapter and my monsoon 1/2"x3/4" compression fittings won't fit on it (and it's not close)


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> If I were you I'd get the matching-size monsoon 90 degree adapter instead of that bitspower one. I have that bitspower adapter and my monsoon 1/2"x3/4" compression fittings won't fit on it (and it's not close)


That's interesting. They both report that they are using '_Industry standard G 1/4 threads_' - female on the Bitspower and male on the monsoon.


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> That's interesting. They both report that they are using '_Industry standard G 1/4 threads_' - female on the Bitspower and male on the monsoon.


The threads aren't the issue. One second i'll mspaint what i'm talking about.


----------



## djchup

This get's the point across I think. I'm not saying you'll have that problem with that particular combination. But I had this problem with that bitspower adapter and these fittings.

EDIT: I think I'm wrong


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> 
> This get's the point across I think. I'm not saying you'll have that problem with that particular combination. But I had this problem with that bitspower adapter and these fittings.


What? I have monsoon fittings and those same bitspower 90s around here somewhere that I use to use and they worked fine 1/2 x 3/4. All BP rotary's are the same size height was and hole location, pretty much all 90s tbh they are over an inch tall that fitting needs a radius of 1/2 inch from the center of the g 1/4 the bitspower is way taller than that from top thread to center.

I need a pic because I have always used nothing but 3/4 inch you are using a non rotary or your 90 was made wrong.


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> What? I have monsoon fittings and those same bitspower 90s around here somewhere that I use to use and they worked fine 1/2 x 3/4. All BP rotary's are the same size height was and hole location, pretty much all 90s tbh they are over an inch tall that fitting needs a radius of 1/2 inch from the center of the g 1/4 the bitspower is way taller than that from top thread to center.
> 
> I need a pic because I have always used nothing but 3/4 inch you are using a non rotary or your 90 was made wrong.


I'll take a pic next till my loop which could be in the next couple days. My bitspower 90 rotary is in my loop atm.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> I'll take a pic next till my loop which could be in the next couple days. My bitspower 90 rotary is in my loop atm.


What you are describing is physically not possible.

Here is a detailed dimension of a bp 90 degree rotary,



From the bottom of the diamond knurling to the center of the G 1/4 is 17.8 mms, that is .7 of an inch. So for what you are saying to happen that would mean the radius of the compression would have to be 1.4 inches, it isn't it isn't even close. If it was then those fittings also wouldn't fit on 90% of CPU blocks on the market.

Something is wrong with your 90 or it isn't a rotary.

Just for some more info, Here is a pic of a Bitspower L I have in my bench right now. Its slightly longer than the low profile (curved style 90s) but not much. attached to it is a MMTs Carbon fiber enhanced (its a monsoon free center with carbon fiber instead of holes all else is the same). it is 1/2x3/4

As you can see not only does it clear that thread it clears the gpus backplate......



Here is a bitspower rotary with a bitspower 90 degree compression fitting on it (1/2 by 3/4)


----------



## djchup

yeah it seems like there should be ~5mm to spare from those drawings. I'll look at it again next time I fill my loop, there was definitely a reason I couldn't use those two parts together because I bought them to be used together and it wouldn't work. I was pretty sure that was the reason from memory but I could be wrong. I'll let you know if I figure it out.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> yeah it seems like there should be ~5mm to spare from those drawings. I'll look at it again next time I fill my loop, there was definitely a reason I couldn't use those two parts together because I bought them to be used together and it wouldn't work. I was pretty sure that was the reason from memory but I could be wrong. I'll let you know if I figure it out.


It most likely isn't a rotary version as they have a short area that is used for screwing beyond that I have no clue.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I recently got burnt by picking up some Bitspower rotary 90° adapter (with connector) only to find that they didn't work with the Monsoon hardline tube [3/8" x 1/2"] as the Bitspower required tubing that was 10/12mm while the monsoon tubing is imperial (ie inches).
> 
> I'm swapping to the Bitspower rotary 90° adapter (sans connector) and planning to use Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fittings [1/2" x 5/8"].
> 
> The questions I have are ...
> 
> 
> Can I use the Monsoon Hardline Economy Compression Fitting [1/2" x 5/8"] fittings for soft tubing?
> 
> If so, which version of the soft tubing works best?
> 
> Is PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing [3/8"x 1/2"] a viable option?
> 
> If the word 'HardLine' in the fitting actually means something (ie not soft line), then what sort of monsoon fitting works best? / well? for flexible tubing?


No on all counts lol. Hardline means Hard Line IE hard tubing no you cannot use that with soft tube. Hard tube isn't anywhere near the same thing its acrylic pipe.

Ya monsoon makes compression fittings for soft tubing, http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-free-center-hardline-compression-fittings-3-8-x-1-2-6-pack-matte-black.html.

It doesn't look anything like the fitting you linked, and you wont find one that will. Soft tubing requires a barb and a ring that is large to hold it to the barb, the bigger the barb the more secure it is. So I assume you want a stubby fitting like the one you linked well that isn't going to happen with soft tube period, go acrylic if thats what you want.


----------



## ruffhi

Thanks for this info - very interesting. Rushing off to a movie at the moment but I have some more Qs







.


----------



## CrazyCreator

@All
There are already 3D files of the new parts?

@Gene
Any news about a release in Germany?


----------



## BoxGods

To clear things up a bit, the Monsoon fitting lines in the *Premium* range are modular--in both tube types (hard or soft) and in styles, (Free Centers, Carbons, Chain Guns). What that means in the simplest terms is that the compression rings of all three styles share the same geometry. If you had one soft tube barb and one hard line base and one each compression ring in Free center, Carbon, and Chain Guns they would all work together. They have to be the same tube size of course.

The Rotary and light port rotary all use G 1/4 threads but the outside diameter is matched to the premium fittings for streamlined aesthetics.

The current Economy fittings are orphans as they are not interchangeable. We have a new economy fitting coming out that allows them to "join the family" but will also fit a fairly wide range of hard tube sizes so they are not just limited to imperial tube. I will be posting information on them in a few weeks as they have one more "trick" I think you guys might like...or some will anyway.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> @All
> There are already 3D files of the new parts?
> 
> @Gene
> Any news about a release in Germany?


Still working on the Sketchup parts--other crap stuff keeps interrupting. Hoping to be able to focus on it this weekend.

EU resellers will be ordering shortly so "soon" for Germany.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> If I were you I'd get the matching-size monsoon 90 degree adapter instead of that bitspower one. I have that bitspower adapter and my monsoon 1/2"x3/4" compression fittings won't fit on it (and it's not close)


That's strange. I have put Monsoon 1/2-3/4 free center fittings on 90s and 45s by Monsoon, Bitspower and EK without any problems, and also on Bitspower triple-rotaries with no issues.


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> It most likely isn't a rotary version as they have a short area that is used for screwing beyond that I have no clue.


I think I'm just mistaken/ my memory is terrible. I put them side-by-side when I got off work last night (without disassembling my loop) and it looked like they would fit. I'm guessing I didn't use the bitspower rotary with the monsoon fittings because the overhanging fitting looked funny (that's the only thing i can think of)

TLDR: you're right, I'm wrong.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Still working on the Sketchup parts--other crap stuff keeps interrupting. Hoping to be able to focus on it this weekend.


Go, go, go


----------



## Cyber Locc

Okay so I am going to pull a page from someone else







. Like they said since this has pretty much become defacto monsoon club. I am curious if anyone has tried ro knows if I can use a Monsoon 90 degree light port fitting as a T. The way I would use it is with the cylinder going up and down (so the rotary included on it would go to the side).

The top would have a QDC, the bottom would be to a fill port, and the rotary that is attached to the fitting would go to a valve which on the other side would be another fitting doing the same.

The idea is below the fillpotrts is the loop, the QDCs will connect to GPUs and to CPU/MB ect. (there will be this setup on both sides). If the GPU is connected the valve will be off, if the GPU is not connected the Drain valve will be opened and the removal of the QDCs will cause the water to loop around. .


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Okay so I am going to pull a page from someone else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Like they said since this has pretty much become defacto monsoon club. I am curious if anyone has tried ro knows if I can use a Monsoon 90 degree light port fitting as a T. The way I would use it is with the cylinder going up and down (so the rotary included on it would go to the side).
> 
> The top would have a QDC, the bottom would be to a fill port, and the rotary that is attached to the fitting would go to a valve which on the other side would be another fitting doing the same.
> 
> The idea is below the fillpotrts is the loop, the QDCs will connect to GPUs and to CPU/MB ect. (there will be this setup on both sides). If the GPU is connected the valve will be off, if the GPU is not connected the Drain valve will be opened and the removal of the QDCs will cause the water to loop around. .


AFAIK the lightport will work perfectly as a T, as it has G1/4" threads on both ends, and both arms are even the same size, so you can put whatever fittings you want (or the intended LED plug) on either end. I have used them with temp sensors instead of the led plug and they work fine.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> AFAIK the lightport will work perfectly as a T, as it has G1/4" threads on both ends, and both arms are even the same size, so you can put whatever fittings you want (or the intended LED plug) on either end. I have used them with temp sensors instead of the led plug and they work fine.


I thought so was just checking, in the pics there seems to be like a ring in the inside reducing the flow channel on 1 side it may just be an optical illusion though.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thanks Mystriss. My comment was more of a joke as the picture at PPCS only shows 5 tension rods.
> 
> Speaking of tension rods, they, or more accurately the paper wrapping around each rod, is the most frustrating part of putting the reservoir together. It took me a good 15 minutes to unwrap the 12 tension rods (2 x 50mm sets) that I had and I am pretty sure the paint was starting to peel of the room with my language.


Pfft L2Fingernails like a boss









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What are these chrome tensions rods use for?


Those are for the 50mm MMRS Tubes







See installation video for use:


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone has a picture of these new Monsoon MMRS reservoir with a Clear or UV tube (not the Frosted ones) in a case? I just wanna see how these look like inside a case with LED lighting.


----------



## Don Key Sho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Anyone has a picture of these new Monsoon MMRS reservoir with a Clear or UV tube (not the Frosted ones) in a case? I just wanna see how these look like inside a case with LED lighting.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/940#post_24781841

i have the clear. dont mind the brite one thats with the cfls on


----------



## Cyber Locc

Thanks for reminding me Don,

I know this was asked earlier and I looked for the post but couldn't find it. Any idea when the internal ccfls will be coming out? And will they need specific end caps?.


----------



## jvillaveces

It's hard to believe an entire company revolves around stealing other people's intellectual property!! Have you seen this?


----------



## DaClownie

So since this has become the unofficial Monsoon thread... anyone have a spare D5 mount end cap for these they want to get rid of? They're still not in stock on PPCS and I wanna buildddddddd


----------



## Cyber Locc

@jvillaveces stupid phone makes things hard lol.

I would agree about thermaltake, however your example is a bad one. Making a mandrel isn't copying anyone there's only so many ways you can make a mandrel and I seen ones that look very similar in other industry's long before monsoon made it.

Me and ceader had this convo the other day about the dark side ones. Sorry to say but you guys are getting a little out of control on that one.

That's like apple saying Samsung stole there rectangle phone with rounded corners.

A mandrel is a mandrel it was long before monsoon made it and it looked frightfully close to monsoons. Monsoon rocks for putting it out first and making them nice but they did not invent the wheel.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Thanks for reminding me Don,
> 
> I know this was asked earlier and I looked for the post but couldn't find it. Any idea when the internal ccfls will be coming out? And will they need specific end caps?.


We tried to ship them before the Chinese New year but ran out of time.

They will not require a special end cap or a special port. Any G 1/4 port will work provided there is room lengthwise for the CCFL. There will be six lengths available (just like the reservoir tubes) 50mm to 300mm in 50mm increments.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> @jvillaveces stupid phone makes things hard lol.
> 
> I would agree about thermaltake, however your example is a bad one. Making a mandrel isn't copying anyone there's only so many ways you can make a mandrel and I seen ones that look very similar in other industry's long before monsoon made it.
> 
> Me and ceader had this convo the other day about the dark side ones. Sorry to say but you guys are getting a little out of control on that one.
> 
> That's like apple saying Samsung stole there rectangle phone with rounded corners.
> 
> A mandrel is a mandrel it was long before monsoon made it and it looked frightfully close to monsoons. Monsoon rocks for putting it out first and making them nice but they did not invent the wheel.


I would agree with that under normal circumstances and I certainly don't want to be that "bitter guy" but there are a few points to add at the very least. I didn't just make simple mandrels and toss them on the market. I designed the mandrels to work with our center line measuring and bending system, took the time to make all the how to videos, then released the mandrel kits to resellers at our cost. I did that because I was seeing all these quickie videos of companies bending tube around soup cans and saying it was easier than soft tube etc. In my view that was a disservice to the WC and modding community because noobs see that, believe it and then when they don't get the results they expect they get discouraged and our community suffers.

If I stripped out all the brackets and hardware that goes into the kits we could cut our costs a lot but the tools would not be nearly as functional. I also could have passed on the hundreds of questions I answered in emails and on forums to get "the group" up to speed on how all these tools work together.

All of the above said your point is still correct. I am very appreciative to all the guys that have emailed me about this and/or posted supportive messages, but end of the day there is nothing I can do about it and the community as a whole now has much better tools for running hard lines. That was the original goal so lets chalk it up as a win and go build something cool =)


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I would agree with that under normal circumstances and I certainly don't want to be that "bitter guy" but there are a few points to add at the very least. I didn't just make simple mandrels and toss them on the market. I designed the mandrels to work with our center line measuring and bending system, took the time to make all the how to videos, then released the mandrel kits to resellers at our cost. I did that because I was seeing all these quickie videos of companies bending tube around soup cans and saying it was easier than soft tube etc. In my view that was a disservice to the WC and modding community because noobs see that, believe it and then when they don't get the results they expect they get discouraged and our community suffers.
> 
> If I stripped out all the brackets and hardware that goes into the kits we could cut our costs a lot but the tools would not be nearly as functional. I also could have passed on the hundreds of questions I answered in emails and on forums to get "the group" up to speed on how all these tools work together.
> 
> All of the above said your point is still correct. I am very appreciative to all the guys that have emailed me about this and/or posted supportive messages, but end of the day there is nothing I can do about it and the community as a whole now has much better tools for running hard lines. That was the original goal so lets chalk it up as a win and go build something cool =)


Well I don't know about the thermal take version, however I do know the darkaide ones are pretty cheaply made and not very nice.

That was kinda the way I said it to ceader, I do not think anyone that would want the monsoon version would buy the dark sides.

Someone that will use it 1 time every 4 years isnt going to want to pay 50 dollars.
However 12 they might. But that won't change whether dark side made them or not, those are the people that would use bottle caps ect.

The guy that re does his build all the ime or does many than the quality ones you produce would be better suited, and the 50 could be justified.

I also want to say I didn't mean that no thought or work went into the design I'm sure it did. and I appreciate what you have made for the community very much.

I am just saying that there isn't anyway to make a mandrel really outside of the way you did. So people should go a little easier on darkside, ceader said well they should make there 180 square, well that doesn't even make since lol.

The shape of the mandrel is the shape it has to be there isn't any other shape it could be lol. That is all I am saying, it does suck that people are muscling in on your design, I'm just saying it was hard not to.

I would still recommend that people buy yours as they seem much better, I think you win by quality. That is aside from the people that won't use it enough to justify the cost.

I think the same about the CL thing though, it was wrong what they did however I don't think it will affect there business.

People that will buy that would never buy a CL case due to money issues ect, they would rather have the cheap Chinese junk.

That's what drives many people to CL, I am moving to them because I am sick of junk even my 900d (350 dollar case) is cheap junk IMO.







.

Sorry if I offended you that wasn't my intent, I am very happy to have you and your products in our industry, you revolutionize a lot of stuff.

To the light tubes hmm, how do they work do you have a pic of a prototype. Will they not work with coupler systems then? Does it take up the g1/4s on either side? Or can 1 still be used as a port.


----------



## BoxGods

I know my "message" got a little muddled there--not that great at communication--but I was agreeing with you. We are driven by innovation and customer service and as my wife tells me every time this happens, "If you're not getting knocked off you're not innovating".

On the CCFL Plugs. They WILL work on reservoirs with couplers provided you manage your lengths. As an example, if you wanted three CCFL bulbs in your 200mm single tube reservoir you could use a 3 port cap on either end and 200mm CCFL's. If you had a reservoir with two 150mm tube segments (and a coupler) you could use the 300mm CCFL plugs. I am slightly dreading releasing these as I know there will be a little confusion at first--especially as the TRP part has the anti-vortex trident now so I had to shorten the CCFL's about 20mm to compensate for that.

I will post more information as we get closer to shipping.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I would agree with that under normal circumstances and I certainly don't want to be that "bitter guy" but there are a few points to add at the very least. I didn't just make simple mandrels and toss them on the market. I designed the mandrels to work with our center line measuring and bending system, took the time to make all the how to videos, then released the mandrel kits to resellers at our cost. I did that because I was seeing all these quickie videos of companies bending tube around soup cans and saying it was easier than soft tube etc. In my view that was a disservice to the WC and modding community because noobs see that, believe it and then when they don't get the results they expect they get discouraged and our community suffers.
> 
> If I stripped out all the brackets and hardware that goes into the kits we could cut our costs a lot but the tools would not be nearly as functional. I also could have passed on the hundreds of questions I answered in emails and on forums to get "the group" up to speed on how all these tools work together.
> 
> All of the above said your point is still correct. I am very appreciative to all the guys that have emailed me about this and/or posted supportive messages, but end of the day there is nothing I can do about it and the community as a whole now has much better tools for running hard lines. That was the original goal so lets chalk it up as a win and go build something cool =)
> 
> 
> 
> Well I don't know about the thermal take version, however I do know the darkaide ones are pretty cheaply made and not very nice.
> 
> That was kinda the way I said it to ceader, I do not think anyone that would want the monsoon version would buy the dark sides.
> 
> Someone that will use it 1 time every 4 years isnt going to want to pay 50 dollars.
> However 12 they might. But that won't change whether dark side made them or not, those are the people that would use bottle caps ect.
> 
> The guy that re does his build all the ime or does many than the quality ones you produce would be better suited, and the 50 could be justified.
> 
> I also want to say I didn't mean that no thought or work went into the design I'm sure it did. and I appreciate what you have made for the community very much.
> 
> I am just saying that there isn't anyway to make a mandrel really outside of the way you did. So people should go a little easier on darkside, ceader said well they should make there 180 square, well that doesn't even make since lol.
> 
> The shape of the mandrel is the shape it has to be there isn't any other shape it could be lol. That is all I am saying, it does suck that people are muscling in on your design, I'm just saying it was hard not to.
> 
> I would still recommend that people buy yours as they seem much better, I think you win by quality. That is aside from the people that won't use it enough to justify the cost.
> 
> I think the same about the CL thing though, it was wrong what they did however I don't think it will affect there business.
> 
> People that will buy that would never buy a CL case due to money issues ect, they would rather have the cheap Chinese junk.
> 
> That's what drives many people to CL, I am moving to them because I am sick of junk even my 900d (350 dollar case) is cheap junk IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Sorry if I offended you that wasn't my intent, I am very happy to have you and your products in our industry, you revolutionize a lot of stuff.
> 
> To the light tubes hmm, how do they work do you have a pic of a prototype. Will they not work with coupler systems then? Does it take up the g1/4s on either side? Or can 1 still be used as a port.
Click to expand...

Well let's call a Dalmatian a Dalmatian here since you kinda took that out of context.

I was referring to that as a form of innovation and you took it literally.

Change the design and make it your own if you're gonna pirate off someone was all I was saying. And if you believe that's impossible then, well you've been literally proven wrong. Case in point Tt's new Mandrel kit which includes a 45*/ 90* mandrel. It's obviously based off Monsoon, but at least they had the common sense to make it theirs. So not only is it possible, but it has been done. Just because madrels have been around since the dawn of plumbing, doesn't mean that they are any different than any other intellectual property. I'd be a little buggered if someone put out an exact model of something that I spent time and money to put to market. So imho, just because it's plastic and black and mandrels doesn't make it justifiable. And to make matters worse it was done by someone who is in the business.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well let's call a Dalmatian a Dalmatian here since you kinda took that out of context.
> 
> I was referring to that as a form of innovation and you took it literally.
> 
> Change the design and make it your own if you're gonna pirate off someone was all I was saying. And if you believe that's impossible then, well you've been literally proven wrong. Case in point Tt's new Mandrel kit which includes a 45*/ 90* mandrel. It's obviously based off Monsoon, but at least they had the common sense to make it theirs. So not only is it possible, but it has been done. Just because madrels have been around since the dawn of plumbing, doesn't mean that they are any different than any other intellectual property. I'd be a little buggered if someone put out an exact model of something that I spent time and money to put to market. So imho, just because it's plastic and black and mandrels doesn't make it justifiable. And to make matters worse it was done by someone who is in the business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ya I 100% agree with that, I would also be super mad if I was Gene. However then I would realize as he did "imatation is a form of flattery".

I didn't much look at the TT ones, just seen people saying they copied monsoon. I do get what your saying I just think its kinda hard is all. At the end of the day monsoon made them first he will get credit he is the innovator and that hasn't changed.

However that shows my point I was making. You said TT did innovate, however the thread above is bashing them for copying monsoon. You said they made them differently, yet there still getting bashed for "copying".

I just think people are a little too quick to scream IP theft, not just in this case but in many others.

I run into the same thing with other hobby's as well, like my other kinda hobby vaping.

There's only so many ways you can make a round battery tube yet all the time people say oh you stole xxx IP. When really there just all round metal tubes hahaha.

Sorry for bringing you up wasn't trying to be mean or nothing, just we just had that convo is all.


----------



## Brunoper

Anyone knows when this product will be back in stock????

Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-black.html#


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Anyone knows when this product will be back in stock????
> 
> Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-black.html#


Depends largely on stock availability from Monsoon......








If they had stock to send shouldn't be too long now.

I got this email from PPCS on 18th Jan regarding my inquiry about this item

"_I just looked on our incoming shipment and do not see these items on the order. It will be a few weeks before we can get them in. I will contact our supplier to see when they will have them so we can add them to our next order. Again we apologize._ "


----------



## Brunoper

A few weeks?!?!?!?!? That really sucks, that's the last piece of the puzzle, I can't wait that long.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> A few weeks?!?!?!?!? That really sucks, that's the last piece of the puzzle, I can't wait that long.


BUT that was on 18th Jan - not today - so should be almost arriving if Monsoon had stock to ship to PPCS.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Anyone knows when this product will be back in stock????
> 
> Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-black.html#


Nope, it's been out of stock for a while now. It's kinda suck that missing this 1 piece, the whole MMRS doesn't work.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Nope, it's been out of stock for a while now. It's kinda suck that missing this 1 piece, the whole MMRS doesn't work.


Well that statement is not exactly correct is it.
You just can't get the MMRS tube res and D5 combo atm.
Could the MMRS-SAP stand alone D5 top possibly work for you guys ?


----------



## Brunoper

Yes I do have that already, however I decided to go with 2 Reservoirs. I already have the tube, the other end cap and the tension rods, I really just need the pump cap.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Yes I do have that already, however I decided to go with 2 Reservoirs. I already have the tube, the other end cap and the tension rods, I really just need the pump cap.


Then we wait


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well let's call a Dalmatian a Dalmatian here since you kinda took that out of context.
> 
> I was referring to that as a form of innovation and you took it literally.
> 
> Change the design and make it your own if you're gonna pirate off someone was all I was saying. And if you believe that's impossible then, well you've been literally proven wrong. Case in point Tt's new Mandrel kit which includes a 45*/ 90* mandrel. It's obviously based off Monsoon, but at least they had the common sense to make it theirs. So not only is it possible, but it has been done. Just because madrels have been around since the dawn of plumbing, doesn't mean that they are any different than any other intellectual property. I'd be a little buggered if someone put out an exact model of something that I spent time and money to put to market. So imho, just because it's plastic and black and mandrels doesn't make it justifiable. And to make matters worse it was done by someone who is in the business.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya I 100% agree with that, I would also be super mad if I was Gene. However then I would realize as he did "imatation is a form of flattery".
> 
> I didn't much look at the TT ones, just seen people saying they copied monsoon. I do get what your saying I just think its kinda hard is all. At the end of the day monsoon made them first he will get credit he is the innovator and that hasn't changed.
> 
> However that shows my point I was making. You said TT did innovate, however the thread above is bashing them for copying monsoon. You said they made them differently, yet there still getting bashed for "copying".
> 
> I just think people are a little too quick to scream IP theft, not just in this case but in many others.
> 
> I run into the same thing with other hobby's as well, like my other kinda hobby vaping.
> 
> There's only so many ways you can make a round battery tube yet all the time people say oh you stole xxx IP. When really there just all round metal tubes hahaha.
> 
> Sorry for bringing you up wasn't trying to be mean or nothing, just we just had that convo is all.
Click to expand...

Is all good. Not mad but the square jig info was my main concern. Just wasn't meaning square as sharp angles when I mentioned it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Is all good. Not mad but the square jig info was my main concern. Just wasn't meaning square as sharp angles when I mentioned it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ooh I thought that was what you meant this whole time lol, my bad.


----------



## BoxGods

The TT mandrels are not aluminum? I would worry that plastic mandrels do not dissipate the heat evenly--plastic is an insulator--and one side of the tube would cool much more slowly than the other which builds in a lot of stress into the tube once it is bent.

WOW. They are charging that for PLASTIC mandrels and are not even including the mounting hardware?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> A few weeks?!?!?!?!? That really sucks, that's the last piece of the puzzle, I can't wait that long.


Performance just got a big MMRS shipment on Friday and likely just has not entered it into inventory yet. They also have a second shipment delayed in customs and should have that within a few days.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The TT mandrels are not aluminum? I would worry that plastic mandrels do not dissipate the heat evenly--plastic is an insulator--and one side of the tube would cool much more slowly than the other which builds in a lot of stress into the tube once it is bent.
> 
> WOW. They are charging that for PLASTIC mandrels and are not even including the mounting hardware?


Not sure what they are. They sound heavy but then I don't have a set in my hands to compare with the Monsoon units I have sitting on my desk atm.














~Ceadder


----------



## VSG

Pretty sure they are aluminum, I recall some Tt reps mentioning this in the social media posts.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure what they are. They sound heavy but then I don't have a set in my hands to compare with the Monsoon units I have sitting on my desk atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So is ThermalTake watercooling products any good ? Compare to Bitspower?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not sure what they are. They sound heavy but then I don't have a set in my hands to compare with the Monsoon units I have sitting on my desk atm.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So is ThermalTake watercooling products any good ? Compare to Bitspower?
Click to expand...

They like using aluminum, but since they started going custom loop parts I'm not entirely certain whether they are using brass or aluminum for their fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Sketchup update.

I spent the weekend getting all (or most) of the MMRS components into a single Sketchup file. Originally I thought it would be pretty cool to have every single component available and all the sizes and colors on one "work bench" were you could pick and chose the parts you wanted to use to build out and try different configurations without having to insert a lot of components etc.

The problem with that is the file gets pretty massive--just in the tubes you get 6 lengths x 3 types x 6 colors = 108 tubes. By the time you add in all the tension rods, mating kits, molded parts, etc. it gets closer to 500 parts. Even my machine which is built for working in 3D chugs a bit.

So...option B is to have one of each length but all in a neutral color. Then if the user wants to alter the colors after he has built out his part he can do that himself with the paint bucket tool.

The last option is to maybe make multiple files in groups. All the tubes in one file, all the molded parts in another, tension rods in another and so on.

Any of you Sketchup users have an opinion?


----------



## Ceadderman

Not a sketchup user but the Neutral idea seems to be the way to go. It's not that difficult to add color.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

I was trying to think of a way that I could incorporate part numbers. I guess without color the last 2 digits in the part number could be expressed as XX instead of RD, BL, GR etc, (fore red, blue, green respectively). Sketchup has a 3D warehouse feature where you can open a "collection" and drag and drop parts into your work space.

Now I am tinkering with the idea of building the "Monsoon Workshop" that has a little work bench with some sample assemblies and somehow has comments and/or instructions in a few locations. Then the builder opens the MMRS collection from the 3D warehouse--it has little thumbnails--and can drag in parts as needed.

Or I could just be over thinking all of this lol.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not a sketchup user but the Neutral idea seems to be the way to go. It's not that difficult to add color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sorry but what is "sketchup" user?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Not a sketchup user but the Neutral idea seems to be the way to go. It's not that difficult to add color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I think a neutral color would be fine also. Probably make it easier to change colors quicker to see different combos.


----------



## ruffhi

I use SketchUp ... well, I dabble with it. Happy to be a guinea pig (tester) if needed.

I think the black parts should be black and the parts that can be colors should be neutral. You should also be able to specify which SketchUp color is the best match for your colors.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I use SketchUp ... well, I dabble with it. Happy to be a guinea pig (tester) if needed.
> 
> I think the black parts should be black and the parts that can be colors should be neutral. You should also be able to specify which SketchUp color is the best match for your colors.


It is likely me...but the color selection, or textures, in Sketchup are pretty meh so I am leaning toward a neutral toned parts group that users can tinker with on color. Maybe a note to look at pictures at their favorite reseller for a better idea on colors.

If you want to mess around with what I have so far--and be aware it is just the parts tossed into one file right now--PM me your email address and I can send you the file.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It is likely me...but the color selection, or textures, in Sketchup are pretty meh so I am leaning toward a neutral toned parts group that users can tinker with on color. Maybe a note to look at pictures at their favorite reseller for a better idea on colors.
> 
> If you want to mess around with what I have so far--and be aware it is just the parts tossed into one file right now--PM me your email address and I can send you the file.


I agree so much with this, its hard to tell the difference when a lot of stuff is black as well. ITS HORRID


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The TT mandrels are not aluminum? I would worry that plastic mandrels do not dissipate the heat evenly--plastic is an insulator--and one side of the tube would cool much more slowly than the other which builds in a lot of stress into the tube once it is bent.
> 
> WOW. They are charging that for PLASTIC mandrels and are not even including the mounting hardware?


I was talking about the Darkside Mandrels, they are 12 bucks and there made of PVC which has a lower melting point than acrylic actually half of acrylics. I said the same thing I see the darkside ones melting from the hot Acrylic.

I wasnt sure what the TT ones were made of, however honestly does anyone here buy TT anything hehehehe. I have always made it a somewhat unspoken rule in my book to never buy anything from TT.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So is ThermalTake watercooling products any good ? Compare to Bitspower?


Bwahahahahahahahaha HA. No Comment, google is your friend.


----------



## Cyber Locc

DP delete please. Sorry.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I was talking about the Darkside Mandrels, they are 12 bucks and there made of PVC which has a lower melting point than acrylic actually half of acrylics. I said the same thing I see the darkside ones melting from the hot Acrylic.
> 
> I wasnt sure what the TT ones were made of, however honestly does anyone here buy TT anything hehehehe. I have always made it a somewhat unspoken rule in my book to never buy anything from TT.
> 
> Bwahahahahahahahaha HA. No Comment, google is your friend.


What do you mean Bwahahahahahahhahahaha?


----------



## ruffhi

TT said on FB that theirs is an all metal construction.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Anyone knows when this product will be back in stock????
> 
> Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-black.html#


They told me wednesday... I'm praying they aren't lying, because I have like $700 in WC stuff coming in, and I can't assemble a reservoir without it


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What do you mean Bwahahahahahahhahahaha?


I am laughing at your question, it wasn't a bad question and didn't mean offense to you. Thermal take is cheap Chinese crap everything they make is junk straight up, and 90% of there junk is junk that they stole the design for from someone else.

Out of all there case they have maybe 3 that are unique designs the rest are blatant rip offs of other company's. They are quite easily the biggest joke in the PC industry. They are the perfect example of what makes that phrase "cheap chinese junk" a phrase, which is sad because there is some very good chinese company's but there is so many like TT that they get that label.

However if there is a product you like but don't want to pay the premium they will make it for half the price just don't expect it to work for more than 6 months.

That is why I laughed, there a few really good water cooling company's out there and some of them make really really good fittings, however at the end of the day BP is no 1, in terms of reliability. They have rivals for sure Monsoon is pushing them around as of late







, EK makes some solid fittings I'm sure, however TT is a joke and I wouldnt trust anything they make especially not a fitting. Comparing thermal take to BP is seriously insulating on so many levels.

Fittings are the biggest downfall to watercooling if a fitting breaks you can lose everything, You need to be very careful and only use reliable brands. TT is about the most unreliable brand I can think of. Stick with reputable brands for you loop stuff. Monsoon, BP, EK, Alphacool, Aquacomputer, Swiftech (Im sure there is more but I cant think of any atm







)

However that doesn't mean every company makes everything good, I like Alphacool rads but there fittings are not reliable in my experience.

EK makes the best blocks on the market, but there I dont see there fitting used much (they are the most all around trustworthy of the bunch though, EKs rads are the best, there Blocks are the best, I'm sure they're fittings are good.)

Bitspower Makes good fittings, however there blocks are some of the worst performing on the market.

Monsoon makes very good fittings, and very appealing and much cheaper than BP, however they dont make Rads or blocks yet. Hopefully one day they will it would be nice to have someone to rival EK







.

I could go on but this is way OT so sorry for going OT.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> They told me wednesday... I'm praying they aren't lying, because I have like $700 in WC stuff coming in, and I can't assemble a reservoir without it


$700? damn, is it really worth doing it?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> $700? damn, is it really worth doing it?


Lol you ask this now? getting cold feet? 700 dollars is cheap and I am sure that is just to extend his loop, my loop is sitting at almost 2k. This isn't a cheap hobby by any means.

You can easily blow 200-300 in just fittings, 130-250 in pumps, 100-300 in rads, 50+ in blocks (I have about 800 in blocks, I left this plus as it can be alot.) 50-300 in a reservoir, Fans 20+ (for an example I have 16 corsair SP120s that I am replacing. [email protected] each is 240.00)

I know people that have spent over $700 in just fittings lol. I did the math I got about 1800 in my loop. 4 rads 2x240mm 1 480 and 1 420, 3 gpu blocks a cpu block a motherboard block dual d5s fans and a frozen Q resovoir.

AIOs are another good option and some of them are pretty customizable and much cheaper.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Lol you ask this now? getting cold feet? 700 dollars is cheap and I am sure that is just to extend his loop, my loop is sitting at almost 2k. This isn't a cheap hobby by any means.
> 
> You can easily blow 200-300 in just fittings, 130-250 in pumps, 100-300 in rads, 50+ in blocks (I have about 800 in blocks, I left this plus as it can be alot.) 50-300 in a reservoir, Fans 20+ (for an example I have 16 corsair SP120s that I am replacing. [email protected] each is 240.00)
> 
> I know people that have spent over $700 in just fittings lol. I did the math I got about 1800 in my loop. 4 rads 2x240mm 1 480 and 1 420, 3 gpu blocks a cpu block a motherboard block dual d5s fans and a frozen Q resovoir.
> 
> AIOs are another good option and some of them are pretty customizable and much cheaper.


How did you blow $250 in pump? The d5 pump cost only $85+ ish. Are you running like Triple D5 Pump in your triple loops or something?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> They told me wednesday... I'm praying they aren't lying, because I have like $700 in WC stuff coming in, and I can't assemble a reservoir without it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $700? damn, is it really worth doing it?
Click to expand...

Worth it? that's a subjective question... $ to performance ratio is severely bad, but I love doing it, so that makes it feel worth it. I also incurred a bit of a higher cost due to the constraints of my upcoming build. This also includes the pro hardline kit from monsoon (which is definitely reusable), fan grills, fans, 2 radiators, fittings, new CPU block, d5 pump, mmrs 100mm reservoir, etc. etc. etc. I also went with the hardline tubing, which overall is more expensive than just some simple barbs and flex tube. However... it's just what I wanted to do.

A simple loop that can cool it all isn't insanely expensive. DDC pump/res combo for under 100, 360mm radiator for $80 or so, CPU block for $50, tube for $20, barbs for $25ish and boom... very well cooled processor with all brand new everything for $275. Is it going to be the prettiest? nope. But it'll do that job without question. Perhaps just as well as my configuration. But I'm building for aesthetic as well as performance (top of the line CPU block compared to middle of the road is a difference of a couple degrees C in cooling capability... definitely not WORTH the premium if the dollars are important).

Hope that helps!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> How did you blow $250 in pump? The d5 pump cost only $85+ ish. Are you running like Triple D5 Pump in your triple loops or something?


Umm ya a stock d5 is 85 dollars, A pump top which greatly increases that D5s performance and appearance is another 40. There is also other pumps then D5s, an MCP35x is 90 and then a top is another 40 then you dont want it to die from heat so add another 20 for a heat sink.

Then if you want the even flashier Bitspower d5s that goes up more, PPCs seels there Uber BP D5s for 160 for 1 d5 lol.

Anyway I have EK d5s there 125 each. However that is a d5 and a pump top. You could spend more than 250 on pumps though actually very easily. I have seen builds with 4 MCP35xs with custom tops and heatsinks. Another easy way is the Uber bitspower from PPCs they have a dual d5 UBER that costs 399.

I am also going to have to disagree with above however. With what he listed and he left out fans you could buy an AIO that performs the exact same for 100-150 dollars. You go custom because you want better than AIO temps, if you just want AIO style loop buy an AIO.

For a quick refrence, https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-x61 performs exactly as well as what he just built for 275 in his example and it only costs 139.

Also I have never seen a DDC pump res combo for under 100 or even at 100 more like 150.

Now if you want the aesthetics that comes with a custom loop, but are okay with AIO temps then your going to pay alot more than 275.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> How did you blow $250 in pump? The d5 pump cost only $85+ ish. Are you running like Triple D5 Pump in your triple loops or something?
> 
> 
> 
> Umm ya a stock d5 is 85 dollars, A pump top which greatly increases that D5s performance and appearance is another 40. There is also other pumps then D5s, an MCP35x is 90 and then a top is another 40 then you dont want it to die from heat so add another 20 for a heat sink.
> 
> Then if you want the even flashier Bitspower d5s that goes up more, PPCs seels there Uber BP D5s for 160 for 1 d5 lol.
> 
> Anyway I have EK d5s there 125 each. However that is a d5 and a pump top. You could spend more than 250 on pumps though actually very easily. I have seen builds with 4 MCP35xs with custom tops and heatsinks. Another easy way is the Uber bitspower from PPCs they have a dual d5 UBER that costs 399.
> 
> I am also going to have to disagree with above however. With what he listed and he left out fans you could buy an AIO that performs the exact same for 100-150 dollars. You go custom because you want better than AIO temps, if you just want AIO style loop buy an AIO.
> 
> For a quick refrence, https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-x61 performs exactly as well as what he just built for 275 in his example and it only costs 139.
> 
> Also I have never seen a DDC pump res combo for under 100 or even at 100 more like 150.
> 
> Now if you want the aesthetics that comes with a custom loop, but are okay with AIO temps then your going to pay alot more than 275.
Click to expand...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-acrylic-dual-5-25-reservoir-pump-combo-with-one-laing-ddc.html

$115 - 5.5% with code OCN55... so $108. With that being said, he could go apples to apples, get a 240mm radiator for $48, 115 for res/pump. 6 barbs for $12 (XSPC chrome g1/4), XSPC Raystorm block for $50, $10 for tubing (really only need 6ft to be safe, but 8ft to be super safe). $25 for 2 SP120 fans... $243... after discount $229 plus shipping, plus leaving him the option to go with a water block and expand later.

That being said, a custom loop here with a 240mm radiator, should perform better. The DDC3.2 will have a much higher flow rate, the SP120 fans are great for radiators, the radiator you're going to get is AT LEAST as good a the ones from a H100, and the XSPC raystorm water block should cool better as well. He can spend $30 extra for a 360mm radiator to allow himself the overhead to install a GPU block later if he so chooses. the AIO doesn't allow that flexibility.

The question of whether it's worth it is 100 percent his call because the dollars don't make sense, even for a AIO. It's just a matter of where his passions and interests reside. That's why in this unofficial Monsoon outpost, we spend so much. We're passionate about awesome aesthetic parts for our loops. We obviously perceive a great value on appearance AND performance. We're paying the premium for such luxuries, but that's because they are just that: luxuries.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Worth it? that's a subjective question... $ to performance ratio is severely bad, but I love doing it, so that makes it feel worth it. I also incurred a bit of a higher cost due to the constraints of my upcoming build. This also includes the pro hardline kit from monsoon (which is definitely reusable), fan grills, fans, 2 radiators, fittings, new CPU block, d5 pump, mmrs 100mm reservoir, etc. etc. etc. I also went with the hardline tubing, which overall is more expensive than just some simple barbs and flex tube. However... it's just what I wanted to do.
> 
> A simple loop that can cool it all isn't insanely expensive. DDC pump/res combo for under 100, 360mm radiator for $80 or so, CPU block for $50, tube for $20, barbs for $25ish and boom... very well cooled processor with all brand new everything for $275. Is it going to be the prettiest? nope. But it'll do that job without question. Perhaps just as well as my configuration. But I'm building for aesthetic as well as performance (top of the line CPU block compared to middle of the road is a difference of a couple degrees C in cooling capability... definitely not WORTH the premium if the dollars are important).
> 
> Hope that helps!


Yea ther's no way that I'm going to buy "barb" fittings, and only spend $275 on a custom loop. I mean if I want cheap, I might as well just go with AIO coolers like those Corsair ones. But if I go custom loop, I will spend more than $500+. Yea so ther's no middle route for me. Cause spending $275 on a cheap custom loop parts is "not " worth it imo, rather just buy an AIO cooler.

But yea I agree with your point.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-acrylic-dual-5-25-reservoir-pump-combo-with-one-laing-ddc.html
> 
> $115 - 5.5% with code OCN55... so $108. With that being said, he could go apples to apples, get a 240mm radiator for $48, 115 for res/pump. 6 barbs for $12 (XSPC chrome g1/4), XSPC Raystorm block for $50, $10 for tubing (really only need 6ft to be safe, but 8ft to be super safe). $25 for 2 SP120 fans... $243... after discount $229 plus shipping, plus leaving him the option to go with a water block and expand later.
> 
> That being said, a custom loop here with a 240mm radiator, should perform better. The DDC3.2 will have a much higher flow rate, the SP120 fans are great for radiators, the radiator you're going to get is AT LEAST as good a the ones from a H100, and the XSPC raystorm water block should cool better as well. He can spend $30 extra for a 360mm radiator to allow himself the overhead to install a GPU block later if he so chooses. the AIO doesn't allow that flexibility.
> 
> The question of whether it's worth it is 100 percent his call because the dollars don't make sense, even for a AIO. It's just a matter of where his passions and interests reside. That's why in this unofficial Monsoon outpost, we spend so much. We're passionate about awesome aesthetic parts for our loops. We obviously perceive a great value on appearance AND performance. We're paying the premium for such luxuries, but that's because they are just that: luxuries.


First off with that XSPC res theres a reason its 108 lol, those things are terrible, the black ones are not bad but the old clear ones are known for leaking issues, they are glued together and poorly at that lol. Thats to to mention the fact that a DDC in that environment will only last a year or 2, A DDC has to have a heat sink at the very least airflow that has neither that is a terrible combo.

The Kracken I linked has a 280mm rad it has the same surface area as that 360. " The DDC3.2 will have a much higher flow rate" is irrelevant the AIOs will provide the 1gpm needed and that is all you need more than that will not improve temps really at all. We are not talking a huge restrictive loop here AIOs are designed with pumps to handle what they have with over 1gpm. The DDC pump also does not have a high flow rate its pro is pressure where in this kind of loop does not matter. I will give you that the Raystorm will surpass the AIOs CPU block even then we are talking a couple of degrees C.

" a 360mm radiator to allow himself the overhead to install a GPU block later if he so chooses. the AIO doesn't allow that flexibility." first off no.

In no world is a 360 rad enough for an overclocked CPU and a GPU even at stock, just no. At that point you would be better off Air cooling. I currently have my case torn down s I am moving things around ect. I threw my PC on a bench temporarily and have a 480 rad hooked up to 1 of my GPUs and my CPU. With my GPU stock and m,y CPU overclocked while gaming my cpu hits 60c and my GPU hits 70. You are suggesting that with a 360 ya thats not nearly enough.

However maybe you just meant expand-ability in general, There again that is not true EK makes a AIO that is expandable and is still under 200 as does swiftech, I believe there was a few more but I cannot recall them atm.

There is also the option of the predator while were on this, that's 200 dollars has a very nice rad a DDC pump, a very good rad and a better CPU block than a ray storm and is expandable (it comes with a Supremacy Evo which is the best block on the market). For 240 you can add qdcs and make the Rad a 360. That is complete with fans, much cheaper and better performing than the loop you laid out. Also while were on the subject of it coming with fans it comes with EK Vardars which are second only to Gentle Typhoons, those are 20 dollar a piece fans (the Vardars so are the GTs though).

Oh lets also not forget the fact the predator uses Compression fittings and has QDCs. I do have 1 niggle with the predator though, it implores the same no heat sink DDC idea as that reservoir, I have had my fair share of DDCs die because of those types of solutions they are a bad idea. However in the way of the EK version you can still mount a heat sink to there DDC and it will still get airflow.

Also as you suggested them, I dont say this light heartily as I own a ton of them sadly, unless you want to duct tape your rads Corsair SP120s are horrid fans do not use them for rads. the model that comes with the H100 is fine but the round ones allow a lot of air to escape and are very poorly designed. This can be overcome with a rad cover that has circle cutouts or duct tape however.

I agree that if you want aesthetics and such like we do then you have to go fully custom, however you are also going to spend alot more than 300 dollars. Also on that note look at a predator it has EK compression's, EK block, EK rad everything is the same parts we use in custom systems, it looks fantastic. However if you are trying to save money and just want good cooling and decent looks then AIOs of today will outperform anything you can build for the price and look not bad doing it.

5 years ago things were different and back then I would have agreed with you, but as of today you are wrong and a cheap loop is a waste of time and money there is AIOs much better and cheaper than what you could build on a budget.

If your building a small cheap loop these days a predator looks a whole lot better than a 300 dollar loop that wont perform as well and will be riddled with barb fittings with Zip Ties.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> First off with that XSPC res theres a reason its 108 lol, those things are terrible, the black ones are not bad but the old clear ones are known for leaking issues, they are glued together and poorly at that lol. Thats to to mention the fact that a DDC in that environment will only last a year or 2, A DDC has to have a heat sink at the very least airflow that has neither that is a terrible combo.
> 
> The Kracken I linked has a 280mm rad it has the same surface area as that 360. " The DDC3.2 will have a much higher flow rate" is irrelevant the AIOs will provide the 1gpm needed and that is all you need more than that will not improve temps really at all. We are not talking a huge restrictive loop here AIOs are designed with pumps to handle what they have with over 1gpm. The DDC pump also does not have a high flow rate its pro is pressure where in this kind of loop does not matter. I will give you that the Raystorm will surpass the AIOs CPU block even then we are talking a couple of degrees C.
> 
> " a 360mm radiator to allow himself the overhead to install a GPU block later if he so chooses. the AIO doesn't allow that flexibility." first off no.
> 
> In no world is a 360 rad enough for an overclocked CPU and a GPU even at stock, just no. At that point you would be better off Air cooling. I currently have my case torn down s I am moving things around ect. I threw my PC on a bench temporarily and have a 480 rad hooked up to 1 of my GPUs and my CPU. With my GPU stock and m,y CPU overclocked while gaming my cpu hits 60c and my GPU hits 70. You are suggesting that with a 360 ya thats not nearly enough.
> 
> However maybe you just meant expand-ability in general, There again that is not true EK makes a AIO that is expandable and is still under 200 as does swiftech, I believe there was a few more but I cannot recall them atm.
> 
> There is also the option of the predator while were on this, that's 200 dollars has a very nice rad a DDC pump, a very good rad and a better CPU block than a ray storm and is expandable (it comes with a Supremacy Evo which is the best block on the market). For 240 you can add qdcs and make the Rad a 360. That is complete with fans, much cheaper and better performing than the loop you laid out. Also while were on the subject of it coming with fans it comes with EK Vardars which are second only to Gentle Typhoons, those are 20 dollar a piece fans (the Vardars so are the GTs though).
> 
> Oh lets also not forget the fact the predator uses Compression fittings and has QDCs. I do have 1 niggle with the predator though, it implores the same no heat sink DDC idea as that reservoir, I have had my fair share of DDCs die because of those types of solutions they are a bad idea. However in the way of the EK version you can still mount a heat sink to there DDC and it will still get airflow.
> 
> Also as you suggested them, I dont say this light heartily as I own a ton of them sadly, unless you want to duct tape your rads Corsair SP120s are horrid fans do not use them for rads. the model that comes with the H100 is fine but the round ones allow a lot of air to escape and are very poorly designed. This can be overcome with a rad cover that has circle cutouts or duct tape however.
> 
> I agree that if you want aesthetics and such like we do then you have to go fully custom, however you are also going to spend alot more than 300 dollars. Also on that note look at a predator it has EK compression's, EK block, EK rad everything is the same parts we use in custom systems, it looks fantastic. However if you are trying to save money and just want good cooling and decent looks then AIOs of today will outperform anything you can build for the price and look not bad doing it.
> 
> 5 years ago things were different and back then I would have agreed with you, but as of today you are wrong and a cheap loop is a waste of time and money there is AIOs much better and cheaper than what you could build on a budget.
> 
> If your building a small cheap loop these days a predator looks a whole lot better than a 300 dollar loop that wont perform as well and will be riddled with barb fittings with Zip Ties.


Are you sure that the Predator comes with Supremacy Evo block? I thought it only comes with the cheaper version MX one.


----------



## EmperorJJ1

Nice looking stuff here. Hopefully parts are still available as soon as someone makes a good GPU block for the 390x


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Are you sure that the Predator comes with Supremacy Evo block? I thought it only comes with the cheaper version MX one.


The cheaper MX block is a Supremacy EVO, The MX is cheaper as EK adapted cost saving measures, they do not include the AMD bracket with the MX and the mounting mechanism is a cheaper version. The top cover is made of cheaper materials and this also helps to lower cost slightly. The actual base of the MX is the exact same as the EVOs, as is the internal design they perform the same and are basically the same blocks the MX is just removes bloatware to lessen the price. However yes it is the MX, so it has the Acrylic top VS Nickel/Acetal and the cheaper dumbed down mounting system.

Another fun fact all parts of the Evo and Mx are interchangeable you could buy a predator and a EVO top and mount and you would then have an EVO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EmperorJJ1*
> 
> Nice looking stuff here. Hopefully parts are still available as soon as someone makes a good GPU block for the 390x


EK is suppopse to have a few coming out this month. To my knowledge no one else is making them an EK only 1 or 2.

290x blocks will fit some of them as well, this is why block makers are not making them. 390xs are simply 290xs with more Vram, they dont make blocks for cards that change virtually nothing because not many people will buy 390xs, and most of the people that do dont water cool them. The Reference 390x even uses the same pcb as reference 290xs its the same card just more Vram.


----------



## EmperorJJ1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> 290x blocks will fit some of them as well, this is why block makers are not making them. 390xs are simply 290xs with more Vram, they dont make blocks for cards that change virtually nothing because not many people will buy 390xs, and most of the people that do dont water cool them.


I thought EK said they wouldnt be doing anything with the 390x because there wasnt enough of a market for them? I actually have a 290x not the 390x but its the sapphire "new edition" on the 390x PCB. If i knew for sure the 290x block worked for my card then i would be gravy and i would start things setup for the build. But at this point my whole upgrade hinders on the GPU block. Once i have the GPU waterblock down i plan to get a second card like mine from a friend, get a larger PSU and upgrade the CPU. With the 2 cards i would build a custom loop for the GPU's and CPUs.

Right now equipment wise I'm not running into any heat issues and there isn't a whole lot of reason to do a custom loop. Really the whole upgrade would cost me an easy 1200+ dollars without breaking a sweat. I'm not going to invest that kind of money to find out the waterblock doesn't fit or doesn't work.


----------



## DaClownie

@ Cyber Locc... a 360mm radiator can DEFINITELY cool a CPU and a video card heavily overclocked. My old rig that's turning over to the server is a 3770k @ 4.7GHz, and a 7970 OCed to 1250/1650 being cooled by a D5 on speed setting 2, and a RX360 with yate loon mediums.

CPU never crosses 85C after prime 95 for 24 hours, nor did it cross 90 with the furry donut AND prime95 going for 6 hours. Safe to say, 360mm radiator handled it.

Normal gaming performance was 40-45C VRM/GPU processor and 60C CPU for some of the more CPU intensive titles.

Let's just agree to disagree and move on.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EmperorJJ1*
> 
> I thought EK said they wouldnt be doing anything with the 390x because there wasnt enough of a market for them? I actually have a 290x not the 390x but its the sapphire "new edition" on the 390x PCB. If i knew for sure the 290x block worked for my card then i would be gravy and i would start things setup for the build. But at this point my whole upgrade hinders on the GPU block. Once i have the GPU waterblock down i plan to get a second card like mine from a friend, get a larger PSU and upgrade the CPU. With the 2 cards i would build a custom loop for the GPU's and CPUs.
> 
> Right now equipment wise I'm not running into any heat issues and there isn't a whole lot of reason to do a custom loop. Really the whole upgrade would cost me an easy 1200+ dollars without breaking a sweat. I'm not going to invest that kind of money to find out the waterblock doesn't fit or doesn't work.


They are making 1 block, however I dont think its a sapphire it may be I will try to find the info and edit this post. However ya you may find yourself in a bad situation of being without a water block and might have to use a universal water block for the card







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> @ Cyber Locc... a 360mm radiator can DEFINITELY cool a CPU and a video card heavily overclocked.
> CPU never crosses 85C after prime 95 for 24 hours, nor did it cross 90 with the furry donut AND prime95 going for 6 hours. Safe to say, 360mm radiator handled it.


1. No it cant cool a heavily overclocked CPU and GPU, the bare minimum that anyone will suggest for a stock CPU and GPU will be 360mm, add a CPU OC and you need a 480 at least. You are saying with a GPU Overclock as well, then add another 120 on there, so a 360 and a 240. I just told you, I have a 480 going right now and the air coming out of the rad is physically hot, that is not suppose to happen.

Will it cool it, yes of course it will. Will it cool it better than high end air heat sinks and a non reference GPU cooler, no it will not. If you are running a 7970 and a 3770k both overclocked on a 360 rad you are way way underraded and all the water cooling Gurus on this forum or any other will agree with me. Now the type of rad can also play a role if you have a very nice 360 well then it is better but still not enough.

Water cooling and how much rad you need is fairly easy, You need to keep a delta of 10 or less anything over 10 is a bad delta over 15 and pretty much any air cooler is better. So the best 360 rad on the market atm can cool 400 watts in push pull with gentle typhoons at a 10c delta.

You have a 150w CPU and a 300W GPU even if you had the best rad on the market its not enough. In your setup you are cooling about 309ws with your rad, your system is generating much more than 309ws and your delta is extremely high. A CPU should never hit 90 with water cooling EVER, under no bench period. A high end air cooler will prevent your CPU from hitting 90 under any bench.

Now I know some people do it for looks, some people do it for quiet and that is all fine an well. However you didn't say that, you said that a 360 can cool a CPU and GPU well, well anything over a 10c delta is not well which you are way over.


----------



## VSG

Come on guys, this is getting off topic here. But yeah- EK's making a block for the MSI 390x.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> They are making 1 block, however I dont think its a sapphire it may be I will try to find the info and edit this post. However ya you may find yourself in a bad situation of being without a water block and might have to use a universal water block for the card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 1. No it cant cool a heavily overclocked CPU and GPU, the bare minimum that anyone will suggest for a stock CPU and GPU will be 360mm, add a CPU OC and you need a 480 at least. You are saying with a GPU Overclock as well, then add another 120 on there, so a 360 and a 240. I just told you, I have a 480 going right now and the air coming out of the rad is physically hot, that is not suppose to happen.
> 
> Will it cool it, yes of course it will. Will it cool it better than high end air heat sinks and a non reference GPU cooler, no it will not. If you are running a 7970 and a 3770k both overclocked on a 360 rad you are way way underraded and all the water cooling Gurus on this forum or any other will agree with me. Now the type of rad can also play a role if you have a very nice 360 well then it is better but still not enough.
> 
> Water cooling and how much rad you need is fairly easy, You need to keep a delta of 10 or less anything over 10 is a bad delta over 15 and pretty much any air cooler is better. So the best 360 rad on the market atm can cool 400 watts in push pull with gentle typhoons at a 10c delta.
> 
> You have a 150w CPU and a 300W GPU even if you had the best rad on the market its not enough. In your setup you are cooling about 309ws with your rad, your system is generating much more than 309ws and your delta is extremely high. A CPU should never hit 90 with water cooling EVER, under no bench period. A high end air cooler will prevent your CPU from hitting 90 under any bench.
> 
> Now I know some people do it for looks, some people do it for quiet and that is all fine an well. However you didn't say that, you said that a 360 can cool a CPU and GPU well, well anything over a 10c delta is not well which you are way over.


What do you mean by 10c delta? 10c delta over ambient?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What do you mean by 10c delta? 10c delta over ambient?


Yea, 10c delta is just a 10 degree rise in water temperature from it's idle temperature.

That being said... status update for anyone still looking, d5 mmrs res caps still aren't in stock on PPCS. Trust me, I've checked like 4 times today because I'm excited to start building the new rig.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Yea, 10c delta is just a 10 degree rise in water temperature from it's idle temperature.
> 
> That being said... status update for anyone still looking, d5 mmrs res caps still aren't in stock on PPCS. Trust me, I've checked like 4 times today because I'm excited to start building the new rig.


Why do you want MMRS so bad? there are better options out there like the Bitspower Reservoir Upgrade kit + Bitspower D5 Pump Top, look the best I think.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why do you want MMRS so bad? there are better options out there like the Bitspower Reservoir Upgrade kit + Bitspower D5 Pump Top, look the best I think.


Did you really just ask that in a Monsoon products thread?

Gotta be a troll...


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why do you want MMRS so bad? there are better options out there like the Bitspower Reservoir Upgrade kit + Bitspower D5 Pump Top, look the best I think.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you really just ask that in a Monsoon products thread?
> 
> Gotta be a troll...
Click to expand...

Im glad someone else said this too. I tried to call him out a few posts back and he acted insulted, but he constantly mentions bitspower in here. They do have their forum...


----------



## mfknjadagr8

these things look awesome... the green is calling to me.....


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Im glad someone else said this too. I tried to call him out a few posts back and he acted insulted, but he constantly mentions bitspower in here. They do have their forum...


Funny part is I had a bitspower tube reservoir (two in fact, 400mm each), and replaced it with the MMRS because it looked so much better. Biggest difference, aside from the modular nature of the MMRS vs the bitspower is the mounting. The MMRS has legit mounting capabilities, while the bitspower is just a couple plastic snap together clamps. Fine for the the way I had it mounted on the top of the desk horizontally, but no way I would mount that inside my system.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Did you really just ask that in a Monsoon products thread?
> 
> Gotta be a troll...


I'm not a troll. Im just trying to help people out here by recommending them different options. There is no "best" product, you need variety in the real world.
It's up to people to choose.

And if you got offended by someone who doesn't like a product that you like, then I have nothing to say for you.
Get open minded.


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I'm not a troll. Im just trying to help people out here by recommending them different options. There is no "best" product, you need variety in the real world.
> It's up to people to choose.
> 
> And if you got offended by someone who doesn't like a product that you like, then I have nothing to say for you.
> Get open minded.


And yet you claimed the Bitspower was better and looked "best". That Bitspower kit looks about the same as my EK XRES. Think I'll go with the MMRS when I upgrade.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why do you want MMRS so bad? there are better options out there like the Bitspower Reservoir Upgrade kit + Bitspower D5 Pump Top, look the best I think.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> And yet you claimed the Bitspower was better and looked "best". That Bitspower kit looks about the same as my EK XRES. Think I'll go with the MMRS when I upgrade.


"Look" and "aesthetics" are "SUBJECTIVE". If you don't like or think Bitspower is better then there are other ppl that think and like Bitspower.
You can't just get offended at ppl that don't like what you like.

It's like when you're buying a new Headphone. Different people will recommend you different Headphone cause buying a Headphone is subjective. Some people like more "bassy" headphone, some others might like sparkling "treble". Some like "flat" sounding headphone and so on... you get my point.

I don't wanna argue anymore, cause I don't wanna derailed this thread.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> And yet you claimed the Bitspower was better and looked "best". That Bitspower kit looks about the same as my EK XRES. Think I'll go with the MMRS when I upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> "Look" and "aesthetics" are "SUBJECTIVE". If you don't like or think Bitspower is better then there are other ppl that think and like Bitspower.
> You can't just get offended at ppl that don't like what you like.
Click to expand...

Your right but there is a time and place to promote your favorites and promoting them in a competitor's forum on purpose is not really cool.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Your right but there is a time and place to promote your favorites and promoting them in a competitor's forum on purpose is not really cool.


WEll you could have just said that in a nice manner, instead of calling me a "troll".

By the way, I'm not promoting Bitspower or anything here. I was just trying to help that guy out by giving him another option out there for Reservoir.
I might have offended some people who are not open minded. But people need to step up and don't just straight up and call people a "troll", when they are just trying to help others out. We are all grown-ups here.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I'm not a troll. Im just trying to help people out here by recommending them different options. There is no "best" product, you need variety in the real world.
> It's up to people to choose.
> 
> And if you got offended by someone who doesn't like a product that you like, then I have nothing to say for you.
> Get open minded.


The Problem here is this entire thread is about the MMRS, thats literally the reason we are all here lol. This isnt help me decide a reservoir thread this is the Monsoon MMRS announcement / discussion thread. That is why you are being called a troll, You said there is better reservoirs in a place that is all about that reservoir.

If this would have been any other subject of a thread it would be different but it isn't, you literally just stepped in MMRS's house and Slapped it and "said BP is best baby, step aside".

Lets make this easy, if you went into a AMD GPU thread and said why you all get AMD GPUs, NVIDIA is the best, I am sure you would get called worse than a troll.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Why do you want MMRS so bad? there are better options out there like the Bitspower Reservoir Upgrade kit + Bitspower D5 Pump Top, look the best I think.


Well, if you must know, there are several reason that i would go with a MMRS -

You have the ability to make any size reservoir that you would like.
You have the flexibility to use a dual pump through 1 reservoir and have it look very clean and organized.
You have several colors to choose from and I cannot wait for the CCFL bulbs that will INSIDE the reservoir to be released so we can jump on that
It is a top quality reservoir in a sea of quickly put together generic reservoirs
You can easily upgrade the system at a later date at relatively low cost since you have the base system already there.
I can upgrade my case to a larger size and and not have to replace an entire reservoir - I can simply get a mating coupler
I can have a fill drain port that is very solid and I can even mount it to the bottom of my case and use it as the primary stand making it look like it is floating in the case
I can use the MMRS tubes and stil mount it onto a 5.25" Drive bay which hasn't been done before without being an actual drive bay reservoir.
Have I mentioned Top of the Line Quality? Seriously watch some of the videos and see the quality it is made of, magnificent.
Have access to an extremely and willingly helpful team over at Monsoon
Have 100% matching colors for the between the tube, reservoir, and connectors.
Have I mentioned top tier quality??? Take a look at the stand a lone pump - Beautiful.
Easily mount some LED lights attached to the reservoir giving it a glow that is HIDDEN behind the reservoir making it look like light is emitting from it. I don't necessarily have to use a LED strip to get behind the reservoir which will bleed into the motherboard area as well.

I could go on but I think that you will get the point. I am sorry but Bitspower does not offer me this, it offers the same black end caps, with the same ports, and the same clear holdings - it's design is not original. That does not make it a bad product simply an design inferior one. I can buy a clear reservoir from anyone, I could not buy an MMRS from anyone but Monsoon. However, Monsoon will cater to that crowd and you can get a Matte or Glossy end cap and rods and a clear tube if that is what you like.









I have said it before and i'll say it again - Gene(@BoxGods) and the Monsoon team have come up with a beautiful product to suit anyone's needs and I really do not believe that there is a better product out there once you are introduced to this.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Well, if you must know, there are several reason that i would go with a MMRS -
> 
> You have the ability to make any size reservoir that you would like.
> You have the flexibility to use a dual pump through 1 reservoir and have it look very clean and organized.
> You have several colors to choose from and I cannot wait for the CCFL bulbs that will INSIDE the reservoir to be released so we can jump on that
> It is a top quality reservoir in a sea of quickly put together generic reservoirs
> You can easily upgrade the system at a later date at relatively low cost since you have the base system already there.
> I can upgrade my case to a larger size and and not have to replace an entire reservoir - I can simply get a mating coupler
> I can have a fill drain port that is very solid and I can even mount it to the bottom of my case and use it as the primary stand making it look like it is floating in the case
> I can use the MMRS tubes and stil mount it onto a 5.25" Drive bay which hasn't been done before without being an actual drive bay reservoir.
> Have I mentioned Top of the Line Quality? Seriously watch some of the videos and see the quality it is made of, magnificent.
> Have access to an extremely and willingly helpful team over at Monsoon
> Have 100% matching colors for the between the tube, reservoir, and connectors.
> Have I mentioned top tier quality??? Take a look at the stand a lone pump - Beautiful.
> Easily mount some LED lights attached to the reservoir giving it a glow that is HIDDEN behind the reservoir making it look like light is emitting from it. I don't necessarily have to use a LED strip to get behind the reservoir which will bleed into the motherboard area as well.
> 
> I could go on but I think that you will get the point. I am sorry but Bitspower does not offer me this, it offers the same black end caps, with the same ports, and the same clear holdings - it's design is not original. That does not make it a bad product simply an design inferior one. I can buy a clear reservoir from anyone, I could not buy an MMRS from anyone but Monsoon. However, Monsoon will cater to that crowd and you can get a Matte or Glossy end cap and rods and a clear tube if that is what you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have said it before and i'll say it again - Gene(@BoxGods) and the Monsoon team have come up with a beautiful product to suit anyone's needs and I really do not believe that there is a better product out there once you are introduced to this.


I like pretty much everyone else most likely agree 100% on all counts aside from the pump thing, parralell pumps is really not a good idea, they give zero performance gains and dont even offer reliability as if one dies it will hurt the other.

Now if gene devised a top that shoots the out back into the other sides pump through the reservoir somehow that would be the most epic thing ever.

It would be a little tough to pull off, However I can think of some ways that could be done, Gene you should look into that, if you made it an option for all reservoirs and even and option for 50mm tubes that would be the most epic dual pump top ever!

Actually this may be doable with the current lineup. What if you took 2 MMRS's and mated there end caps, then went from outlet of the pump to the inlet in the other resovoir. did the same thing on the other side. Then used the 2 free center caps as the inlet and outlet that is a very very strange way of setting up serial connection but its so crazy it might just work.

I am curious now how the EK revo works in series as this is the same principle


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Well, if you must know, there are several reason that i would go with a MMRS -
> 
> You have the ability to make any size reservoir that you would like.
> You have the flexibility to use a dual pump through 1 reservoir and have it look very clean and organized.
> You have several colors to choose from and I cannot wait for the CCFL bulbs that will INSIDE the reservoir to be released so we can jump on that
> It is a top quality reservoir in a sea of quickly put together generic reservoirs
> You can easily upgrade the system at a later date at relatively low cost since you have the base system already there.
> I can upgrade my case to a larger size and and not have to replace an entire reservoir - I can simply get a mating coupler
> I can have a fill drain port that is very solid and I can even mount it to the bottom of my case and use it as the primary stand making it look like it is floating in the case
> I can use the MMRS tubes and stil mount it onto a 5.25" Drive bay which hasn't been done before without being an actual drive bay reservoir.
> Have I mentioned Top of the Line Quality? Seriously watch some of the videos and see the quality it is made of, magnificent.
> Have access to an extremely and willingly helpful team over at Monsoon
> Have 100% matching colors for the between the tube, reservoir, and connectors.
> Have I mentioned top tier quality??? Take a look at the stand a lone pump - Beautiful.
> Easily mount some LED lights attached to the reservoir giving it a glow that is HIDDEN behind the reservoir making it look like light is emitting from it. I don't necessarily have to use a LED strip to get behind the reservoir which will bleed into the motherboard area as well.
> 
> I could go on but I think that you will get the point. I am sorry but Bitspower does not offer me this, it offers the same black end caps, with the same ports, and the same clear holdings - it's design is not original. That does not make it a bad product simply an design inferior one. I can buy a clear reservoir from anyone, I could not buy an MMRS from anyone but Monsoon. However, Monsoon will cater to that crowd and you can get a Matte or Glossy end cap and rods and a clear tube if that is what you like.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have said it before and i'll say it again - Gene(@BoxGods) and the Monsoon team have come up with a beautiful product to suit anyone's needs and I really do not believe that there is a better product out there once you are introduced to this.


Some of the stuff you said are confusing and not true, but I get your point. You really like Monsoon MMRS, that's good.
I was just trying to help you out that there are some other stuff out there. So everything is good bro


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> The Problem here is this entire thread is about the MMRS, thats literally the reason we are all here lol. This isnt help me decide a reservoir thread this is the Monsoon MMRS announcement / discussion thread. That is why you are being called a troll, You said there is better reservoirs in a place that is all about that reservoir.
> 
> If this would have been any other subject of a thread it would be different but it isn't, you literally just stepped in MMRS's house and Slapped it and "said BP is best baby, step aside".
> 
> Lets make this easy, if you went into a AMD GPU thread and said why you all get AMD GPUs, NVIDIA is the best, I am sure you would get called worse than a troll.


Yes I know this thread is about Monsoon and their MMRS stuff. But i'm not the only one that talking about other stuff besides MMRS here.
But at least says in a nice manner, we're all grown ups here, not kids. Even the CEO from Monsoon doesn't say anything like that here, only narrow minded people.
The forums is about discussing and sharing with other people, that's how you can improve your products. Just my 2cent.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Some of the stuff you said are confusing and not true, but I get your point.


I would be happy to clarify anything that may have been confusing for you. Not sure what was not true since 90% of the post was an opinion anyways?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I was just trying to help you out that there are some other stuff out there. So everything is good bro


Well, not really - you asked why we are wanting the MMRS so bad and told us what you thought was better. While I thank you for that, I think your advice is a bit misgiven though - no offense. A lot of us are here because we are very familiar with the market and the products available and found this one the most appealing.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> I would be happy to clarify anything that may have been confusing for you. Not sure what was not true since 90% of the post was an opinion anyways?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, not really - you asked why we are wanting the MMRS so bad and told us what you thought was better. While I thank you for that, I think your advice is a bit misgiven though - no offense. A lot of us are here because we are very familiar with the market and the products available and found this one the most appealing.


Yea a lot of stuff that you said are really confusing, but let put that away. If you like MMRS then go with it, good for you bro.
Im just trying to help you out and giving you more options to choose from, the more options , the better. But since you like MMRS so bad, then go with it. Let's not derailed this thread.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Yea a lot of stuff that you said are really confusing, but let put that away. If you like MMRS then go with it, good for you bro.
> Im just trying to help you out and giving you more options to choose from, *the more options , the better.* But since you like MMRS so bad, then go with it. Let's not derailed this thread.


Exact reason why I am choosing the Modular Reservoir system.









@BoxGods
Anyways, for the CCFL project you have going on, will they include the cathodes or would they be sold separately in case people already have their own? I might have to wait for the Sketchup of it to see exactly how you are implementing it.

Also, do you have any new information on your collaboration with JustABunchOfGeeks project that you consulted on? (I believe it was the Guardian Monitoring LCD that you had mentioned something and they postponed?) It looked liked it had a lot of potential.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Mmm, greeen, tasty....


This is MMRS right? How did he attach 2 reservoirs together without the Tension Rods?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> This is MMRS right? How did he attach 2 reservoirs together without the Tension Rods?


those are XSPC photons that he glued together.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> those are XSPC photons that he glued together.


With the right fittings you can actually screw them together due to their threaded M20 top ports.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> With the right fittings you can actually screw them together due to their threaded M20 top ports.


Hmm thats cool to know. I dont think thats what he did though is it? he has the bottom ports all lined up that would be some good luck lol if he did it with fittings. .


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> They told me wednesday... I'm praying they aren't lying, because I have like $700 in WC stuff coming in, and I can't assemble a reservoir without it


Now in stock


----------



## gdubc

I snagged the last one.

just kidding


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Exact reason why I am choosing the Modular Reservoir system.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @BoxGods
> Anyways, for the CCFL project you have going on, will they include the cathodes or would they be sold separately in case people already have their own? I might have to wait for the Sketchup of it to see exactly how you are implementing it.
> 
> Also, do you have any new information on your collaboration with JustABunchOfGeeks project that you consulted on? (I believe it was the Guardian Monitoring LCD that you had mentioned something and they postponed?) It looked liked it had a lot of potential.


They are likely to ship with the CCFL bulbs. Those things are so fragile I don't know how we could ship them not already in a tube.

They are a simple matter to swap out though and you don't have to uninstall the tube to do it so no loop draining or any of that. Unscrew the end cap, slide out the bulb, slide the new bulb in and replace the grommet and cap. The hard part of a replacement will be having enough "out feed" room--if you are changing 300mm bulbs and there is only 100mm of space in the case.


----------



## jvillaveces

I found another leak. I'm still installing software on the HTPC and learning how to use it, so luckily it's where I can see it instead of tucked away where this sort of thing could kill it. The culprit, again, is a cracked lock collar. This time I took pictures (see below). I believe they show two things: (1) Uneven glue application (2) cracked collar.

I just hate the stupid glue. I made my best effort to apply enough of it and do it evenly, but it appears not to have been successful. This stuff appears to require unusual skills to apply effectively. I don't know if the collar cracked as a result of the glue issues, or for some other reason. The tube in question is absolutely perfect: each end sits flush and snug against its respective fitting, and the compression rings screw on and off effortlessly, so this is not a case of a slight misalignment stressing the collar and causing it to fracture.

I'm posting this, and the supporting pictures, with the full expectation that the explanation will turn out to be user error. I'd just like to figure it out before I destroy my system. Nevertheless, I still maintain that these fittings are a bad idea. They violate the KISS principle, they are complex, fiddly, and prone to failure. All they have going for them is their undeniable good looks, but that's not enough to counterbalance their shortcomings. A product like this should not require a master artisan to install correctly.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## BoxGods

I am just not sure why you are having so much trouble. The poly carbonate lock collars are virtually impossible to crack as poly will deform LONG before it separates. The resistance to cracking and shattering is why PC is used for riot shields and safety glasses.

It is hard to see in the picture which item you think is a crack in the lock collar with all the voids but the only thing I see that looks "crack like" is under the cap. Almost like there was a crack in the end of the tube. Is the tube acrylic?

Are you using alcohol or some other chemical to clean these parts prior to bonding on the cap? What is the serious abraded areas on the outside of the cap? The only time I have seen massive abrasions like that are when people try to pry a partially cured cap off the tube with pliers.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I found another leak. I'm still installing software on the HTPC and learning how to use it, so luckily it's where I can see it instead of tucked away where this sort of thing could kill it. The culprit, again, is a cracked lock collar. This time I took pictures (see below). I believe they show two things: (1) Uneven glue application (2) cracked collar.
> 
> I just hate the stupid glue. I made my best effort to apply enough of it and do it evenly, but it appears not to have been successful. This stuff appears to require unusual skills to apply effectively. I don't know if the collar cracked as a result of the glue issues, or for some other reason. The tube in question is absolutely perfect: each end sits flush and snug against its respective fitting, and the compression rings screw on and off effortlessly, so this is not a case of a slight misalignment stressing the collar and causing it to fracture.
> 
> I'm posting this, and the supporting pictures, with the full expectation that the explanation will turn out to be user error. I'd just like to figure it out before I destroy my system. Nevertheless, I still maintain that these fittings are a bad idea. They violate the KISS principle, they are complex, fiddly, and prone to failure. All they have going for them is their undeniable good looks, but that's not enough to counterbalance their shortcomings. A product like this should not require a master artisan to install correctly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ya dude something else is wrong, are you using chemicals on them like gene said. I have seen PETG smashed with a hammer and it still doesn't crack it isn't that easy to crack. That either isnt PETG, or there is something else going on because PETG doesn't crack.


----------



## DaClownie

Does anyone else have issues with PPCS website being the SLOWEST SITE EVER CREATED. I feel like they use geocities for hosting or something


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Does anyone else have issues with PPCS website being the SLOWEST SITE EVER CREATED. I feel like they use geocities for hosting or something


Yea their website is really slow, they need to upgrade their server. At first I thought there is some serious issue with their website or the person that created it. But now after years and years, I came back and it still slow.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am just not sure why you are having so much trouble. The poly carbonate lock collars are virtually impossible to crack as poly will deform LONG before it separates. The resistance to cracking and shattering is why PC is used for riot shields and safety glasses.
> 
> It is hard to see in the picture which item you think is a crack in the lock collar with all the voids but the only thing I see that looks "crack like" is under the cap. Almost like there was a crack in the end of the tube. Is the tube acrylic?
> 
> Are you using alcohol or some other chemical to clean these parts prior to bonding on the cap? What is the serious abraded areas on the outside of the cap? The only time I have seen massive abrasions like that are when people try to pry a partially cured cap off the tube with pliers.


In the first picture there is a vertical line from the top to the bottom of the collar. That's a crack, My tubing is Monsoon PETG. I've only run distilled water in the loop up to this point, and I've never used alcohol on any part of the loop. The tubing was cut with a tubing cutter, and the end is actually nice and smooth, what appears to be cracks on it is actually uneven glue between tube and collar. The abrasions on the outside are caused by the compression ring rubbing against the lock collar when screwed on and off.

EDIT: I will remake that tube segment tonight, which will require cutting in half to recover the compression rings. Geno, if you are interested, I can mail you the pieces so that you can inspect them in person.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> In the first picture there is a vertical line from the top to the bottom of the collar. That's a crack, My tubing is Monsoon PETG. I've only run distilled water in the loop up to this point, and I've never used alcohol on any part of the loop. The tubing was cut with a tubing cutter, and the end is actually nice and smooth, what appears to be cracks on it is actually uneven glue between tube and collar. The abrasions on the outside are caused by the compression ring rubbing against the lock collar when screwed on and off.
> 
> EDIT: I will remake that tube segment tonight, which will require cutting in half to recover the compression rings. Geno, if you are interested, I can mail you the pieces so that you can inspect them in person.


I would actually like to see them if it is not a huge amount of trouble for you. I feel a little bad when I have to ask questions to figure out what is going on because I know it sounds like I am trying to point the finger at you--there really is no other way to gather information and not sound that way. You said you used a tube cutter? A rotary wheel type? Those are intended for metal tube and cut by applying a LOT of pressure to the tube to create that break point. They are not really intended for cutting plastic tube--maybe they are OK on semi flexible tube like poly pipe but not so much on rigid plastic tube.

When we mention alcohol the intent is not that you might be running alcohol in your loop. There is a sort of "initiation" type mistake that pretty much everyone that is new to modding makes (I did it myself in a HUGE way) where you take Windex or a similar window cleaner or denatured alcohol and clean acrylic parts with it prior to a bonding or painting operation. Alcohol causes some plastics to crack like ice trays. Sometimes you wipe the part down and within minutes it is just destroyed. Other times it might take hours or even weeks for the cracks to form. That is why you should always clean plastic parts with warm soapy water (aka dish soap) and never use any type of glass cleaner.

The lock collars are Poly Carbonate which is often referred to as "Lexan". It is virtually shatter proof which is why it is often used in safety goggles. Below is a picture of the old/original acrylic lock collars and the newer poly carbonate we switched to. It is the highly scientific stomp test. Put the lock collars on the floor and stomp the crap out of them. The PC collar was compressed with so much force that it creased on each side and it still deformed rather than cracking.


----------



## BoxGods

Also, one other item. I have never seen the compression ring tear up a lock collar like that. Because all of the abrasion is on one side it suggests that the tube was pretty far out of alignment and you hat to force it over into place pretty severely when you installed it. That causes the tube to hit the fitting base at a pretty steep angle. Not optimal for obvious reasons

Before you cut the tube I would suggest trying two seals (double them up) as you might just be very unevenly "mapped" onto the base because of that angle and that could be causing the leak.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Also, one other item. I have never seen the compression ring tear up a lock collar like that. Because all of the abrasion is on one side it suggests that the tube was pretty far out of alignment and you hat to force it over into place pretty severely when you installed it. That causes the tube to hit the fitting base at a pretty steep angle. Not optimal for obvious reasons
> 
> Before you cut the tube I would suggest trying two seals (double them up) as you might just be very unevenly "mapped" onto the base because of that angle and that could be causing the leak.


Geno, I'm well aware of the effects of alcohol on acrylic, so no alcohol, or Windex, or anything similar, near my loop. Your advice about a double gasket sounds appealing, but even if it worked, I'd be forever nervous about that joint, so I'm still going to redo the whole thing. You won't believe me until you see it with your own eyes, but the abrasion is not localized, it's more circular in nature. As soon as I'm done posting this, I'll get to work on the new tube. PM me a mailing address and I will send you the pieces so you can do a proper necropsy. If I have caused this situastion through some stupid mistake, I'm very interested in learning about it so I don't keep repeating it. If (as I would obviously prefer to think) the problem is with the product and not with the consumer, I'm sure YOU would be interested in finding out.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Also, one other item. I have never seen the compression ring tear up a lock collar like that. Because all of the abrasion is on one side it suggests that the tube was pretty far out of alignment and you hat to force it over into place pretty severely when you installed it. That causes the tube to hit the fitting base at a pretty steep angle. Not optimal for obvious reasons
> 
> Before you cut the tube I would suggest trying two seals (double them up) as you might just be very unevenly "mapped" onto the base because of that angle and that could be causing the leak.
> 
> 
> 
> Geno, I'm well aware of the effects of alcohol on acrylic, so no alcohol, or Windex, or anything similar, near my loop. Your advice about a double gasket sounds appealing, but even if it worked, I'd be forever nervous about that joint, so I'm still going to redo the whole thing. You won't believe me until you see it with your own eyes, but the abrasion is not localized, it's more circular in nature. As soon as I'm done posting this, I'll get to work on the new tube. PM me a mailing address and I will send you the pieces so you can do a proper necropsy. If I have caused this situastion through some stupid mistake, I'm very interested in learning about it so I don't keep repeating it. If (as I would obviously prefer to think) the problem is with the product and not with the consumer, I'm sure YOU would be interested in finding out.
Click to expand...

Would you mind not being so reasonable? Sheesh, this is the internet, flip the hell out man!


----------



## jvillaveces

PLEASE DELETE


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> OK then, so how's this: Geno, send me your address so I can stage a drive-by shooting?


He's kidding, folks. Don't take that out of context please.


----------



## DaClownie

Revoked


----------



## jvillaveces

please delete


----------



## DaClownie

Just edit your post, I'll edit it out of mine too


----------



## fast_fate

How about some MMRS goodness


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> In the first picture there is a vertical line from the top to the bottom of the collar. That's a crack, My tubing is Monsoon PETG. I've only run distilled water in the loop up to this point, and I've never used alcohol on any part of the loop. The tubing was cut with a tubing cutter, and the end is actually nice and smooth, what appears to be cracks on it is actually uneven glue between tube and collar. The abrasions on the outside are caused by the compression ring rubbing against the lock collar when screwed on and off.
> 
> EDIT: I will remake that tube segment tonight, which will require cutting in half to recover the compression rings. Geno, if you are interested, I can mail you the pieces so that you can inspect them in person.
> 
> 
> 
> I would actually like to see them if it is not a huge amount of trouble for you. I feel a little bad when I have to ask questions to figure out what is going on because I know it sounds like I am trying to point the finger at you--there really is no other way to gather information and not sound that way. You said you used a tube cutter? A rotary wheel type? Those are intended for metal tube and cut by applying a LOT of pressure to the tube to create that break point. They are not really intended for cutting plastic tube--maybe they are OK on semi flexible tube like poly pipe but not so much on rigid plastic tube.
> 
> When we mention alcohol the intent is not that you might be running alcohol in your loop. There is a sort of "initiation" type mistake that pretty much everyone that is new to modding makes (I did it myself in a HUGE way) where you take Windex or a similar window cleaner or denatured alcohol and clean acrylic parts with it prior to a bonding or painting operation. Alcohol causes some plastics to crack like ice trays. Sometimes you wipe the part down and within minutes it is just destroyed. Other times it might take hours or even weeks for the cracks to form. That is why you should always clean plastic parts with warm soapy water (aka dish soap) and never use any type of glass cleaner.
> 
> The lock collars are Poly Carbonate which is often referred to as "Lexan". It is virtually shatter proof which is why it is often used in safety goggles. Below is a picture of the old/original acrylic lock collars and the newer poly carbonate we switched to. It is the highly scientific stomp test. Put the lock collars on the floor and stomp the crap out of them. The PC collar was compressed with so much force that it creased on each side and it still deformed rather than cracking.
Click to expand...

This is a picture of the tube back in my system before cutting it up. You can clearly see that the tube itself fits well -- notice how the compression rings are completely unfastened. You can also clearly see the crack, perhaps better than in the close-up I posted earlier, and you can see the abrasion you mention is circular, not localized. I also hope you can see the collar was not savaged with pliers or any similar outrage. As I mentioned in a previous post, I have not wiped it with alcohol, and the tube is Monsoon petg so it should fit the collar. Like you, I am assuming this is in fact my mistake, I just want to know what it is, because I can't figure out what I may have done wrong.

PS: If my joke in a posted I have since deleted was in poor taste I apologize!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Geno, I'm well aware of the effects of alcohol on acrylic, so no alcohol, or Windex, or anything similar, near my loop. Your advice about a double gasket sounds appealing, but even if it worked, I'd be forever nervous about that joint, so I'm still going to redo the whole thing. You won't believe me until you see it with your own eyes, but the abrasion is not localized, it's more circular in nature. As soon as I'm done posting this, I'll get to work on the new tube. PM me a mailing address and I will send you the pieces so you can do a proper necropsy. If I have caused this situastion through some stupid mistake, I'm very interested in learning about it so I don't keep repeating it. If (as I would obviously prefer to think) the problem is with the product and not with the consumer, I'm sure YOU would be interested in finding out.


Of course.


----------



## BoxGods

I missed the post but no worries =)

And you used Poly lock collars correct? The package will have a stamp on an inside flap that reads "PC" or "POLY" depending on the available space. Even though we made the material switch over 8 months ago I still see somebody from time to time that either bought the fittings a long time ago and just didn't use them for a while or bought them recently from a reseller who had stock sitting on a shelf for a while.

I don't doubt anything you are telling me BTW. I ask to eliminate any known possibilities. If you have poly collars it is close to impossible to crack them. If you are using the recommended UV cure adhesive and cured it correctly (with Sunlight) it is pretty hard to have a single void big enough or a combination of smaller voids with a leak path. I am not exaggerating when I say you REALLY have to work at screwing the glue up badly enough for there to be a leak. Not you specifically, I mean users in general. It is just hard to get the adhesive that wrong--not impossible but pretty hard.

I am going to assume you checked both seals for cat hair/lint/debris as that is the most common reason for a leak.

I also do not know why you are getting all that scratching on the lock collar from the compression ring. There is almost a mm of free space. Anyone with some of these fittings sitting around can have a look and verify that. Those scratches in the pictures look substantial--deep enough that you can see the compression ring tried to cut threads.

I know when you are the guy having an issue it is easy to think there is a problem with the product. Just like I always have to resist the urge to think it is a customer error--both are normal for this dynamic. All I can tell you is that I have personally installed literally hundreds of these, I have an open shop policy here for my buddies and a lot of the neighborhood tweens and teens and I have watched them install hundreds of these without issue. There are thousands of users world wide that have used them without issue also. With all of that said every once in a while there is a customer that has an issue that is really hard to figure out...


----------



## BoxGods

There are a few other things to ask about related to the adhesive. You used the UV cure adhesive we bottle correct? It also has a shelf life of about a year--meaning it needs to be used before that. It also does not tolerate being frozen very well.

Lastly little UV LED lights, or those finger nail drying lights from ebay don't work very well. Did you use daylight?

it sounds like you already watched the how to video but here is the link just in case:


----------



## jvillaveces

I discarded the cardboard box my replacement collars came in. and never inspected it for a stamp on the flap, so I don't really know. I bought them from ppcs on the first week of January, along with the extra glue, so I would expect them to be new stock. As you may recall from my original post complaining of the problems, I did cure the adhesive with a UV lamp meant for fingernails, but I doubt that caused the problem, because the joint is, well hard as nails! Anyway, I will mail you the offending tube so you can inspect it. If the new tube I bent to replace it works I'll just be curious about what happened, if it leaks again I will probably require psychiatric attention.


----------



## Brunoper

I have a quick question, what CCFL inverters are you guys using for the Monsoon Lights???? I was browsing the web and didn't really find much, other than probably buy a CCFL kit and disregard the cathodes that comes with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Gonna hafta check my unused Chaingun fittings for acrylic collars it seems.









~Ceadder


----------



## djchup

I promised some better pics once I cleaned up my wiring so I snapped a few. 3 more SP120's arriving today so the front radiator will be push/pull but other than that the rig is pretty much finished. I'm very satisified with the end product.

Thanks again to BoxGods for sending out a replacement TRP part so I could finish things up.



Spoiler: Pics of my new system (specs in my signature)






http://imgur.com/CMt1e


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> I promised some better pics once I cleaned up my wiring so I snapped a few. 3 more SP120's arriving today so the front radiator will be push/pull but other than that the rig is pretty much finished. I'm very satisified with the end product.
> 
> Thanks again to BoxGods for sending out a replacement TRP part so I could finish things up.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics of my new system (specs in my signature)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/CMt1e


Killer job, nicely done! When a rig looks that good in pics you can only imagine how good it looks in person!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> There are a few other things to ask about related to the adhesive. You used the UV cure adhesive we bottle correct? It also has a shelf life of about a year--meaning it needs to be used before that. It also does not tolerate being frozen very well.
> 
> Lastly little UV LED lights, or those finger nail drying lights from ebay don't work very well. Did you use daylight?
> 
> it sounds like you already watched the how to video but here is the link just in case:


Ahhhh, man! I forgot about the adhesive shelf life. I got a crap load of fittings when hardline kits first came out

and because of my sons health issues I am just now finally able to get started on my projects. I knew I needed to replace the collars because they are the old style, guess I need to add some more adhesive to the list too.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> I have a quick question, what CCFL inverters are you guys using for the Monsoon Lights???? I was browsing the web and didn't really find much, other than probably buy a CCFL kit and disregard the cathodes that comes with it.


THIS should do the trick.


----------



## jincuteguy

Does anyone know besides PPCs, can I buy these Monsoon MMRS from FrozenCPU site? Or FrozenCPU is having issue with business? That's what I heard last time.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> I have a quick question, what CCFL inverters are you guys using for the Monsoon Lights???? I was browsing the web and didn't really find much, other than probably buy a CCFL kit and disregard the cathodes that comes with it.


Lamptron 8 Port CCFL Inverter


----------



## djchup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> I have a quick question, what CCFL inverters are you guys using for the Monsoon Lights???? I was browsing the web and didn't really find much, other than probably buy a CCFL kit and disregard the cathodes that comes with it.


I'm using this one.

That lamptron 8-bulb one is sweet, but I don't think you can get them anywhere anymore.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> I'm using this one.
> 
> That lamptron 8-bulb one is sweet, but I don't think you can get them anywhere anymore.


I would go with something like this or like the lamptron or an aluminum one.

I would not go with one of those kits and take the converter, long ago I had one of those cheap blue converters catch on fire and it also caught the wire connecting it on fire and blew my corsair power supply. The PSU shorted out and killed 2 hard drives as well. Corsair did RMA the PSU and gave me corsair credit for the hard drives so that was cool







.

When I say it caught on fire I mean it literally caught on fire there was a fire in my case and the wires melted! I am extremely cautious about CCFLs now, I was using 1 in my Frozen Q res with what I though was a better adapter, then after a bit it started to make shocking sounds when it was on I unhooked it and I am never using another CCFL period now.

However I do not think that the Frozen Q issue was the converter I think that was the CCFL as it has a strange design that leaves a wire exposed running down the bulb. Even still CCFLs scare me, LEDs are safer and dont require a converter. Anyway if you must use a CCFL, get a good converter.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Does anyone know besides PPCs, can I buy these Monsoon MMRS from FrozenCPU site? Or FrozenCPU is having issue with business? That's what I heard last time.


There's an amazon store that has them as well, but the selection is limited... http://monsooncooling.com/ has a "WHERE TO BUY" section.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> With the right fittings you can actually screw them together due to their threaded M20 top ports.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Hmm thats cool to know. I dont think thats what he did though is it? he has the bottom ports all lined up that would be some good luck lol if he did it with fittings. .


Haven't read much of the posts I missed.

But I haven't glued these together. That would be stupid as hell.

I used M20 > G1/4 and used fittings to stack them. So the water is running through them. As far as I am concerned, I am the first one to ever do this.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> There's an amazon store that has them as well, but the selection is limited... http://monsooncooling.com/ has a "WHERE TO BUY" section.


But do u know if FrozenCpu is still in business or is it not a good idea to buy from them?

I checked out that amazon store, they only have Monsoon fittings, they dont have any of the MMRS reservoir.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Haven't read much of the posts I missed.
> 
> But I haven't glued these together. That would be stupid as hell.
> 
> I used M20 > G1/4 and used fittings to stack them. So the water is running through them. As far as I am concerned, I am the first one to ever do this.


But from the picture i dont see any gap between the 2 res? If you used m20 to g1/4 adapter, isnt there supposed to be a small gap? Any info would be appreciated. I really like your setup btw.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But from the picture i dont see any gap between the 2 res? If you used m20 to g1/4 adapter, isnt there supposed to be a small gap? Any info would be appreciated. I really like your setup btw.


Hahah thanks







But it may be a secret?









Well, I know XSPC sells their own M20 adapters. But mine is actually Pass-through fittings from Barrow (Same as Bitspower).

The Pass-through fittings are cut in half, or rather, 6mm removed and then mounted from the inside. When I cut the fittings it gives a 2.5mm deep on each side, which is a perfect room for a 5mm male to male fittings to mount them both together. I know, if you go for the real M20 adapters you will have a huge gap.

But to point out. The M20 don't really fit with the threads... You really have to use force to get them in. And they do have a seal ring on the inside. They works just fine







Really have to tight them though.

And as you can see in the front and the back. The back are in and outet with Monsoon 13/10 90 degrees. In the front they are modified - working as T. But as a matter of fact, the outlet is a false T because it's blocked on one side - the side facing the reservoir. The Inlet is a true T, half of the water, most of it is flowing through the reservoirs and the rest is coming through the long pipe beside the outlet









Hope I may have cleared a few questions out. Just send me a PM otherwise







But it would not be so awesome if you copied my idea, then it wouldn't be unique anymore


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Gonna hafta check my unused Chaingun fittings for acrylic collars it seems.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Check inside the flap (or do the stomp test on a spare). If you still have acrylic collars email me your shipping info and I can send some out to you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djchup*
> 
> I promised some better pics once I cleaned up my wiring so I snapped a few. 3 more SP120's arriving today so the front radiator will be push/pull but other than that the rig is pretty much finished. I'm very satisified with the end product.
> 
> Thanks again to BoxGods for sending out a replacement TRP part so I could finish things up.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics of my new system (specs in my signature)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/CMt1e


Well you can't argue with those results. VERY nice work sir!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Ahhhh, man! I forgot about the adhesive shelf life. I got a crap load of fittings when hardline kits first came out
> 
> and because of my sons health issues I am just now finally able to get started on my projects. I knew I needed to replace the collars because they are the old style, guess I need to add some more adhesive to the list too.


Sorry to hear about your son. I hope he is doing better now. When you are ready to start your build email me and I can repolace your adhesive.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Lamptron 8 Port CCFL Inverter


We are also working on aluminum 2 bulb and 4 bulb inverters similar to these. They will be finished in our Monsoon colors to match the MMRS reservoirs and our fittings. The PCB design is done and we are finishing up the extrusion designs. Should be shipping end of Feb. They will have black CCFL plugs, use a single SATA power plug (also black) and feature an optional plug in switch wire for a remote located switch.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> But do u know if FrozenCpu is still in business or is it not a good idea to buy from them?
> 
> I checked out that amazon store, they only have Monsoon fittings, they dont have any of the MMRS reservoir.


As far as I know Frozen CPU is gone. We have not shipped them an order or heard from them in a long time. I doubt we ever will as they owed us money when they went under.

Titan Rig on Amazon is slowly adding inventory as they grow. They add one of our lines every month or two so they will eventually have everything. Be patient with them as it is not cheap to build out a full modding store.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Check inside the flap (or do the stomp test on a spare). If you still have acrylic collars email me your shipping info and I can send some out to you.
> Well you can't argue with those results. VERY nice work sir!
> Sorry to hear about your son. I hope he is doing better now. When you are ready to start your build email me and I can repolace your adhesive.
> We are also working on aluminum 2 bulb and 4 bulb inverters similar to these. They will be finished in our Monsoon colors to match the MMRS reservoirs and our fittings. The PCB design is done and we are finishing up the extrusion designs. Should be shipping end of Feb. They will have black CCFL plugs, use a single SATA power plug (also black) and feature an optional plug in switch wire for a remote located switch.
> As far as I know Frozen CPU is gone. We have not shipped them an order or heard from them in a long time. I doubt we ever will as they owed us money when they went under.
> 
> Titan Rig on Amazon is slowly adding inventory as they grow. They add one of our lines every month or two so they will eventually have everything. Be patient with them as it is not cheap to build out a full modding store.


Yea I would rather seeing a store like TitanRig on Amazon that has all the stuff that PPCs has, but has Free 1day or 2 day shipping from Amazon Prime is amazing.
And plus everytime I try to look up something on PPCs, it takes forever to load cause there is something serious wrong with their website.
Maybe you could give them a headup so more people can browse their store better.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hahah thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it may be a secret?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I know XSPC sells their own M20 adapters. But mine is actually Pass-through fittings from Barrow (Same as Bitspower).
> 
> The Pass-through fittings are cut in half, or rather, 6mm removed and then mounted from the inside. When I cut the fittings it gives a 2.5mm deep on each side, which is a perfect room for a 5mm male to male fittings to mount them both together. I know, if you go for the real M20 adapters you will have a huge gap.
> 
> But to point out. The M20 don't really fit with the threads... You really have to use force to get them in. And they do have a seal ring on the inside. They works just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really have to tight them though.
> 
> And as you can see in the front and the back. The back are in and outet with Monsoon 13/10 90 degrees. In the front they are modified - working as T. But as a matter of fact, the outlet is a false T because it's blocked on one side - the side facing the reservoir. The Inlet is a true T, half of the water, most of it is flowing through the reservoirs and the rest is coming through the long pipe beside the outlet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I may have cleared a few questions out. Just send me a PM otherwise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it would not be so awesome if you copied my idea, then it wouldn't be unique anymore


Well you got really lucky then with the threads lining up super perfect







very nice job







Or did they not line up and you used orings ect to make them line up hehehe. I have seen all those kinds of monkey business as well


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hahah thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it may be a secret?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I know XSPC sells their own M20 adapters. But mine is actually Pass-through fittings from Barrow (Same as Bitspower).
> 
> The Pass-through fittings are cut in half, or rather, 6mm removed and then mounted from the inside. When I cut the fittings it gives a 2.5mm deep on each side, which is a perfect room for a 5mm male to male fittings to mount them both together. I know, if you go for the real M20 adapters you will have a huge gap.
> 
> But to point out. The M20 don't really fit with the threads... You really have to use force to get them in. And they do have a seal ring on the inside. They works just fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really have to tight them though.
> 
> And as you can see in the front and the back. The back are in and outet with Monsoon 13/10 90 degrees. In the front they are modified - working as T. But as a matter of fact, the outlet is a false T because it's blocked on one side - the side facing the reservoir. The Inlet is a true T, half of the water, most of it is flowing through the reservoirs and the rest is coming through the long pipe beside the outlet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope I may have cleared a few questions out. Just send me a PM otherwise
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But it would not be so awesome if you copied my idea, then it wouldn't be unique anymore


What do you mean "pass through" fittings? You mean an extender fittings?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What do you mean "pass through" fittings? You mean an extender fittings?


He means these guys - http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-matte-black-finish.html

They have a 20mm outer thread and a standard G1/4 inner thread.

The photon has a 20mm threaded hole at the top.

Here is a pic of one of mine with a standard XSPC adaptor which sits proud of the top...

By using the Bitspower pass through then cutting it down slightly you will then have a threaded G1/4" port which will sit just below the very top of the res. You can then simply screw in a mini G1/4" M-M extender and simply screw the two reservoir tops together.

The cut down Bitspower pass through allows for a much lower recessed profile fitting setup.









Here is another shot which better shows how the top M20 port is actually recessed...


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> He means these guys - http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-case-top-water-fill-through-hole-fitting-set-matte-black-finish.html
> 
> They have a 20mm outer thread and a standard G1/4 inner thread.
> 
> The photon has a 20mm threaded hole at the top.
> 
> Here is a pic of one of mine with a standard XSPC adaptor which sits proud of the top...
> 
> By using the Bitspower pass through then cutting it down slightly you will then have a threaded G1/4" port which will sit just below the very top of the res. You can then simply screw in a mini G1/4" M-M extender and simply screw the two reservoir tops together.
> 
> The cut down Bitspower pass through allows for a much lower recessed profile fitting setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is another shot which better shows how the top M20 port is actually recessed...


So can't you do this with other reservoir as well? Since most other reservoir have a G1/4 thread port already instead of this M20 thread? So basically you can just bypass the adapter and just use the G1/4 extender fittings?

Also, why did XSPC go with a 20mm thread? When they could have just make a G1/4 threaded?


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So can't you do this with other reservoir as well? Since most other reservoir have a G1/4 thread port already instead of this M20 thread? So basically you can just bypass the adapter and just use the G1/4 extender fittings?


The trick is that the port needs to be recessed otherwise with the mini extender in the middle, the reservoirs will not mate up to each other as one entity... ie you will still be able to see the mini extender in the middle. With the ports recessed - it forms a hidden cavity where the extender is hidden from view.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Also, why did XSPC go with a 20mm thread? When they could have just make a G1/4 threaded?


The top port on these is generally utilised as a fill port hence the larger diameter M20 opening.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> The trick is that the port needs to be recessed otherwise with the mini extender in the middle, the reservoirs will not mate up to each other as one entity... ie you will still be able to see the mini extender in the middle. With the ports recessed - it forms a hidden cavity where the extender is hidden from view.
> The top port on these is generally utilised as a fill port hence the larger diameter M20 opening.


You are the real MVP Costas! Absolutely perfect descriptions
















Awesome!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> There are a few other things to ask about related to the adhesive. You used the UV cure adhesive we bottle correct? It also has a shelf life of about a year--meaning it needs to be used before that. It also does not tolerate being frozen very well.
> 
> Lastly little UV LED lights, or those finger nail drying lights from ebay don't work very well. Did you use daylight?
> 
> it sounds like you already watched the how to video but here is the link just in case:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ahhhh, man! I forgot about the adhesive shelf life. I got a crap load of fittings when hardline kits first came out
> 
> and because of my sons health issues I am just now finally able to get started on my projects. I knew I needed to replace the collars because they are the old style, guess I need to add some more adhesive to the list too.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I forgot about shelf life of the adhesive. So that was a waste of money for me too. I guess I shoulda held off the adhesive til I had all my chainguns in hand but I didn't think they would be out of stock for so long that I had to change my fitting choice to fit availability and then those fittings went EoL. Good thing there is an alternative thanks to Gino.









What truly sucks is I never even cracked it open.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

I had no idea the adhesive had a shelf life, so I'll be in the same boat whenever I get around to installing my water cooling heh I'm going to ask PPCS to put a note on the description so other folks are aware of it before they buy


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, I forgot about shelf life of the adhesive. So that was a waste of money for me too. I guess I shoulda held off the adhesive til I had all my chainguns in hand but I didn't think they would be out of stock for so long that I had to change my fitting choice to fit availability and then those fittings went EoL. Good thing there is an alternative thanks to Gino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What truly sucks is I never even cracked it open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Wait chain guns are EOL?


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, I forgot about shelf life of the adhesive. So that was a waste of money for me too. I guess I shoulda held off the adhesive til I had all my chainguns in hand but I didn't think they would be out of stock for so long that I had to change my fitting choice to fit availability and then those fittings went EoL. Good thing there is an alternative thanks to Gino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What truly sucks is I never even cracked it open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait chain guns are EOL?
Click to expand...

I beleive he changed to the economy since he couldnt get chain guns at the time. Now the economy line is EOL.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yeah, I forgot about shelf life of the adhesive. So that was a waste of money for me too. I guess I shoulda held off the adhesive til I had all my chainguns in hand but I didn't think they would be out of stock for so long that I had to change my fitting choice to fit availability and then those fittings went EoL. Good thing there is an alternative thanks to Gino.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What truly sucks is I never even cracked it open.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wait chain guns are EOL?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I beleive he changed to the economy since he couldnt get chain guns at the time. Now the economy line is EOL.
Click to expand...

Now THAT is bad news. I have several 1m boxes of unused Monsoon PETG tube in inventory, and I am most definitely not going to use the free center fittings again. Using 16mm fittings on 5/8" tubing is a bad idea, and if the Economy line won't be available for my next build I'll have no fittings available


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Now THAT is bad news. I have several 1m boxes of unused Monsoon PETG tube in inventory, and I am most definitely not going to use the free center fittings again. Using 16mm fittings on 5/8" tubing is a bad idea, and if the Economy line won't be available for my next build I'll have no fittings available


I wouldnt worry just yet,

This is from Gene a few days ago in this thread.

"The current Economy fittings are orphans as they are not interchangeable. We have a new economy fitting coming out that allows them to "join the family" but will also fit a fairly wide range of hard tube sizes so they are not just limited to imperial tube. I will be posting information on them in a few weeks as they have one more "trick" I think you guys might like...or some will anyway."

That also leads me to think the economy's are not EOL so I am super confused.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Now THAT is bad news. I have several 1m boxes of unused Monsoon PETG tube in inventory, and I am most definitely not going to use the free center fittings again. Using 16mm fittings on 5/8" tubing is a bad idea, and if the Economy line won't be available for my next build I'll have no fittings available
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe primochill will come out with some 5/8s
Click to expand...

Unless their looks are immeasurably improved and their quality control goes up a few dozen notches, I'd rather try to figure out how to make a lamp out of my Monsoon tubing than put that stuff in my system


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Unless their looks are immeasurably improved and their quality control goes up a few dozen notches, I'd rather try to figure out how to make a lamp out of my Monsoon tubing than put that stuff in my system


Umm, Okay. You do relize that monsoon economy fittings are a dead ringer for Primochills right? they even mount the same way. Not sure if you are talking about the first generation "Ghost" fittings that I would agree they are fugly but the new revolvers and monsoon economy's look exactly the same.

Not sure what quality control issues you had but I have 20 revolvers and not a problem with any of them. Not sure exactly how you could mess up QC on a compression fitting.

TBH I prefer the Primochills over the Economy as I dont like the wench gaps in the top, Id rather have the holes, the knurling doesn't bother me but I guess it may some. Hopefully the new Economy's dont have the wrench cut outs.


----------



## Mystriss

Primochill ghosts and monsoon economy's look /completely/ different from each other:

 

I had originally planned on using Ghosts, but I really like the monsoon economy fitting's bevel (I'm planning on using them with black hardline between my GPU's.) Thing is I'm not sure how many GPU's I'm going to have so now I'm fretting on if I should buy a couple packs of the economy before they go away, or hold out for the "new" economy line...

@Gene can you tell us if the new economy line will have that sweet bevel on it?

Also, I'm confused; do I need to replace these conversion kits? I have no (PC) stamps:


----------



## CrazyCreator

The Chain Gun Fittings for Hard Tubing but are not EOL???


----------



## Mystriss

Wait noooo, the chain guns match the MMRS system perfectly and I was pondering replacing my free centers with them...

We need an adult, we're all confused up in here lol


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Wait noooo, the chain guns match the MMRS system perfectly and I was pondering replacing my free centers with them...
> 
> We need an adult, we're all confused up in here lol


Economies are EOL. Chaingun are not.


----------



## BoxGods

Woa...take half a day off and fall two days behind =)

EOL..does that stand for End of the Line? If so Economies are "EOL" yes. I just have never liked that design from a performance / use perspective so we went back to the drawing board and improved it substantially. It will also fit a wider range of tube sizes as I get a lot of hate mail for making our fittings for imperial tube size--even though we are an American company...and the industry standard threads EVERY company uses are G 1/4...which is imperial. Go figure =)

I designed Primochill's ORIGINAL Ghost fitting--not the ugly one they came out with later--no offense to the guy doing their designs now.
'
Chain Gun fittings are NOT EOL...no idea who started that. If they are out of stock at your favorite reseller shoot them an email.

The adhesive does have a shelf life of 1 year. We bottle it ourselves--when I say "we" I mean my wife who sits there for hours filling those little black bottles with a syringe. We do that because you can only buy it in One US gal bottles and I have never found an adhesive that works as well. We do NOT mark it up--we sell it to resellers at our cost. If you keep it in the fridge you can extend that life a bit. Never freeze it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Primochill ghosts and monsoon economy's look /completely/ different from each other:
> 
> 
> 
> I had originally planned on using Ghosts, but I really like the monsoon economy fitting's bevel (I'm planning on using them with black hardline between my GPU's.) Thing is I'm not sure how many GPU's I'm going to have so now I'm fretting on if I should buy a couple packs of the economy before they go away, or hold out for the "new" economy line...
> 
> @Gene can you tell us if the new economy line will have that sweet bevel on it?
> 
> Also, I'm confused; do I need to replace these conversion kits? I have no (PC) stamps:


I would just for the peace of mind. PM me your shipping info when you are ready to start your build and I will send you some replacement collars and adhesive if needed.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Primochill ghosts and monsoon economy's look /completely/ different from each other:
> 
> 
> 
> I had originally planned on using Ghosts, but I really like the monsoon economy fitting's bevel (I'm planning on using them with black hardline between my GPU's.) Thing is I'm not sure how many GPU's I'm going to have so now I'm fretting on if I should buy a couple packs of the economy before they go away, or hold out for the "new" economy line...
> 
> @Gene can you tell us if the new economy line will have that sweet bevel on it?
> 
> Also, I'm confused; do I need to replace these conversion kits? I have no (PC) stamps:


Well ya I know, however I didnt say they looked like ghosts, I said they looked like revolvers, or the 2 look similar and they do .



The monsoons are a little shorter, have wrench flats and the PCs have knurling and holes however they look very similar. Of course pretty much all fittings look similar lol. Like the ghosts and the EK look similar, the MEs and the PCRs and BP rigids all look very similar.


----------



## jincuteguy

Nice man, but isn't Free Center fittings better for Hardline tubing? Also, what does End of the Line (EOL) fittings mean? And why doesn't 5/8" fittings fit with 16mm hardline tubing? I thought 5/8" = 16mm? Sorry if I don't know any of these stuff. Any infos would be appreciated.


----------



## Radnad

EOL stands for End Of Life, meaning the product has been discontinued indefinitely.

EDIT: Well in better terms it means the product has outlived its usefulness and is being discontinued.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I would just for the peace of mind. PM me your shipping info when you are ready to start your build and I will send you some replacement collars and adhesive if needed.


yea I'll do that whenever I get around to looping her up.
Pfft, that latter bit is not happening









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well ya I know, however I didnt say they looked like ghosts, I said they looked like revolvers, or the 2 look similar and they do .
> 
> 
> 
> The monsoons are a little shorter, have wrench flats and the PCs have knurling and holes however they look very similar. Of course pretty much all fittings look similar lol. Like the ghosts and the EK look similar, the MEs and the PCRs and BP rigids all look very similar.


Ah gotcha. I still think they look different, but the ridges really detract from the aesthetics for me personally.


----------



## BoxGods

5/8" is actually 15.7mm. That .2mm does not seem like much and most of the time it is fine, but when you consider tube is an extruded product and has fairly large tolerances of plus/minus 2% to 5% that can push it 15.5mm or slightly less which is substantial.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> yea I'll do that whenever I get around to looping her up.
> Pfft, that latter bit is not happening
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah gotcha. I still think they look different, but the ridges really detract from the aesthetics for me personally.


I agree I hate the ridges I dont mind the diamond knurled ones as much because all my angle fittings have knurling.I like the look of the economy's too as far as being smooth just dont like the wrench cut outs. Now if monsoon used a designed some that didnt have cut outs and no knurling so like the good from the economys and the good from the PCs that would be the best fitting ever







. I mean obviously it would have to have a wrench grip but something like what PC did with the circles that is more subtle.


----------



## ciarlatano

The MMRS stuff is killing me. I have _absolutely_ no need for a res or D5 top......but somehow there is $200 of MMRS res parts sitting in my PPC cart. Really a testament to just how nice looking this stuff is. I am really impressed.


----------



## Mystriss

^ Right!?! I had a $120 FrozenQ Helix for my rig but I just couldn't resist the look of the MMRS










Also, I'm apparently too late to snag a set of the economy fittings for my GPU connection







This is what I get for throwing stuff in a wish list figuring to get it closer to time... ~Waits to see the "new" economy line fitting~


----------



## DaClownie

The time is nearly upon us


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> 
> 
> The time is nearly upon us


Do you really need all that tools to bend petg tubing? oh btw, i think it's better if you use rigid tube cutter than that saw, it's much cleaner and dont need to sand.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> 
> 
> The time is nearly upon us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you really need all that tools to bend petg tubing? oh btw, i think it's better if you use rigid tube cutter than that saw, it's much cleaner and dont need to sand.
Click to expand...

To be honest I have no idea I've never worked with rigid before but our awesome box gods recommends it for clean work. I wanted to start with all the recommended tools and do it the way an expert recommends. The tools aren't "needed" but it's for uniform clean work.


----------



## Ceadderman

I guess I should have been clearer.

I got chainguns.

They went out of stock forcing me to get economies.

Those are the fithings that went EOL before I could get 30 of them in hand.

I said this but was a tad vague about it. My bad folks.









~Ceadder


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you really need all that tools to bend petg tubing? oh btw, i think it's better if you use rigid tube cutter than that saw, it's much cleaner and dont need to sand.


you could do it with a hacksaw and a heatgun and your hands but you're asking for leaks and trouble...even in the early days people built bending jigs for the angles...hardline it's something that requires precision you don't cheap out our you might regret it...I can only assume you've never bent any form of pipe


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Do you really need all that tools to bend petg tubing? oh btw, i think it's better if you use rigid tube cutter than that saw, it's much cleaner and dont need to sand.


That is not really correct. Compression rotary cutters are made for metal tube. The "compression" portion of that is the issue as it builds stress into the tube. You might not see cracks right away but that stress is there waiting...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> The MMRS stuff is killing me. I have _absolutely_ no need for a res or D5 top......but somehow there is $200 of MMRS res parts sitting in my PPC cart. Really a testament to just how nice looking this stuff is. I am really impressed.


You can't take it with you man...I used to use the "hookers and Blow" joke in situations like this but Charlie Sheen pretty much ruined that one forever.

(Apologies to Mistress for the locker room humor).


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> To be honest I have no idea I've never worked with rigid before but our awesome box gods recommends it for clean work. I wanted to start with all the recommended tools and do it the way an expert recommends. The tools aren't "needed" but it's for uniform clean work.


Never justify buying good tools. Let your work do the talking =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you could do it with a hacksaw and a heatgun and your hands but you're asking for leaks and trouble...even in the early days people built bending jigs for the angles...hardline it's something that requires precision you don't cheap out our you might regret it...I can only assume you've never bent any form of pipe


In addition to much better and more consistent results...you just enjoy the project so much more as well. I think a lot of people do this as much for the process as they do the end result.

I am contemplating coming out with a new and improved bending kit. Partially to incorporate all the feedback from the last few years...but also as an FU to the companies knocking us off =)

***EDIT*** Maybe I should have said no to that last beer


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> you could do it with a hacksaw and a heatgun and your hands but you're asking for leaks and trouble...even in the early days people built bending jigs for the angles...hardline it's something that requires precision you don't cheap out our you might regret it...I can only assume you've never bent any form of pipe
> 
> 
> 
> In addition to much better and more consistent results...you just enjoy the project so much more as well. I think a lot of people do this as much for the process as they do the end result.
> 
> I am contemplating coming out with a new and improved bending kit. Partially to incorporate all the feedback from the last few years...but also as an FU to the companies knocking us off =)
> 
> ***EDIT*** Maybe I should have said no to that last beer
Click to expand...

If you do that right after I bought this one, I'm gonna be mad at you.

That being said... I wasn't justifying so much buying good tools, just explaining why I went with them. The information is available across the internet on how to bend rigid tubing using only your hands and blah blah blah and while that may work, and for some perhaps it does... There's a Van Gogh for every art form, but I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that it's probably not me.

I won't be able to play all that much until I get my D5 end cap in and until my work schedule releases me from captivity a bit... but soon... the anticipation is killing me. I'll probably not be able to start playing around with the build until... after Valentine's day


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> In addition to much better and more consistent results...you just enjoy the project so much more as well. I think a lot of people do this as much for the process as they do the end result.
> 
> I am contemplating coming out with a new and improved bending kit. Partially to incorporate all the feedback from the last few years...but also as an FU to the companies knocking us off =)


I would definitely be interested in seeing this come to fruition! I will even volunteer to be a guinea pig! Qualifications: 0 experience in Watercooling & 0 Experience in Rigid Tubing! I'm the perfect tester


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Primochill ghosts and monsoon economy's look /completely/ different from each other:
> 
> 
> 
> I had originally planned on using Ghosts, but I really like the monsoon economy fitting's bevel (I'm planning on using them with black hardline between my GPU's.) Thing is I'm not sure how many GPU's I'm going to have so now I'm fretting on if I should buy a couple packs of the economy before they go away, or hold out for the "new" economy line...
> 
> @Gene can you tell us if the new economy line will have that sweet bevel on it?
> 
> Also, I'm confused; do I need to replace these conversion kits? I have no (PC) stamps:


Take one out and stomp on it. If it's pc it will be fine. If it shatters take the whole box, burn it, and throw the ahes as far away from you as you can


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am contemplating coming out with a new and improved bending kit. Partially to incorporate all the feedback from the last few years


One of the things that I haven't understood with your bending kits is why you can't secure the 'miter' box to a bench. Every time I watch a vid on your kit I see someone holding the box and cutting it with both the saw and the box moving ... a lot. I was planning on drilling a few holes in mine (when I get it







) and securing it to one of my benches. Then I can use both my hands to concentrate on getting a nice, clean cut and not holding the miter box.


----------



## Ceadderman

If u alter the cutting jig, I suggest countersinking the holes first then drilling through and using conical head screws to secure it to your work surface.

I have had the same thought myself.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If u alter the cutting jig, I suggest countersinking the holes first then drilling through and using conical head screws to secure it to your work surface.
> 
> I have had the same thought myself.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was just going to lock the miter in between two small strips of MDF secured to my MDF workstation for bending.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Any one that has an MMRS can you hook me up with some dimensions. I need the width of the end caps, preferabally the ones with the 2 side ports.

If you have 1 with 2 side ports and you can, the width from the center of 1 port to the other edge doesn't have to be perfectly exact just as close as you can get.

Also how long is the cap. I mean like how the resovoir tube is 300mm how much length does each cap add.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Any one that has an MMRS can you hook me up with some dimensions. I need the width of the end caps, preferabally the ones with the 2 side ports.
> 
> If you have 1 with 2 side ports and you can, the width from the center of 1 port to the other edge doesn't have to be perfectly exact just as close as you can get.
> 
> Also how long is the cap. I mean like how the resovoir tube is 300mm how much length does each cap add.


theres a dimensions sheet pic earlier in the thread, should be what you need.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> theres a dimensions sheet pic earlier in the thread, should be what you need.


Ya I just seen that after posting however it is missing the dimensions I need, I think I can figure them out from it though.

However I have another question, is the for instance 300mm, is that 300mm tubing that is shown with the caps on or is the 300mm the actual tube length and its a little shorter with the caps on?

I ask because I think I am able to fit a 300mm reservoir with out drilling holes, however its down to the MMs like literally I would have 1.6mm total slack.

Nevermind found the answer


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You can't take it with you man...I used to use the "hookers and Blow" joke in situations like this but Charlie Sheen pretty much ruined that one forever.
> 
> (Apologies to Mistress for the locker room humor).


BUHAHAHA my father was a general, my husband is retired military turned mechanic, and I've raised four boys...

I actually had to change the name of my rig so I didn't run afoul of any PG requirements on here


----------



## Deedaz

check out this monsoon goodness that just arrived!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> check out this monsoon goodness that just arrived!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That reservoir looks very similar to the one I have downstairs ... except it is taller and has all white tension rods. Very nice!

So - what are you going to do with it?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> One of the things that I haven't understood with your bending kits is why you can't secure the 'miter' box to a bench. Every time I watch a vid on your kit I see someone holding the box and cutting it with both the saw and the box moving ... a lot. I was planning on drilling a few holes in mine (when I get it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and securing it to one of my benches. Then I can use both my hands to concentrate on getting a nice, clean cut and not holding the miter box.


I wanted to add the screws to the inside but it is hard to add a counter bore on the bottom of the half round channel without having sharp edges that will scratch up the tube. I then thought of adding tabs on each end as screw locations but it jacked up the cost a lot--like 2 X. The goal was to keep these as affordable as possible so that was out.

If I make a V2 of the it I will add them. Keep in mind when I did these I had NO idea people would like the kits so much. I was going to sell these to the resellers and some of the modding clubs at cost thinking they would rent or lend them out to their customers / members. We originally made 50 of these, (25 in each size) and I thought that would be it. One run and done.


----------



## BoxGods

Update on the molded parts in white.

I have samples here of the molded end caps in white. A few things to ponder. First because these have a fiber reinforcement and I want to use a really durable plastic, the white is not 100% pearly bright white. They are a tiny bit gray--still white and not yellowish or cream, but not as pure a white as the white fittings. Second, I can't add the matte finish the black parts have so the surface is a bit more glossy.

I have talked to PPCS and they say they will take 4 or 5 of each part in white to have in stock but they say they just don't think they will sell very well. Obviously I can't do a full production run and then only send out a hand full of parts...anyone have an opinion one way or the other?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Update on the molded parts in white.
> 
> I have samples here of the molded end caps in white. A few things to ponder. First because these have a fiber reinforcement and I want to use a really durable plastic, the white is not 100% pearly bright white. They are a tiny bit gray--still white and not yellowish or cream, but not as pure a white as the white fittings. Second, I can't add the matte finish the black parts have so the surface is a bit more glossy.
> 
> I have talked to PPCS and they say they will take 4 or 5 of each part in white to have in stock but they say they just don't think they will sell very well. Obviously I can't do a full production run and then only send out a hand full of parts...anyone have an opinion one way or the other?


I think the white will sell better than they think. Is there a way you can post a pic of the proto you have so we can sort of see the color diff your mentioning, maybe next to a gorgeous white fitting?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I think the white will sell better than they think. Is there a way you can post a pic of the proto you have so we can sort of see the color diff your mentioning, maybe next to a gorgeous white fitting?


I will be at the shop tomorrow and will get a few pictures next to some common whit object.


----------



## DaClownie

Random question concerning the Monsoon red hardline fittings... what's the best sleeving red we've found to match it? I have white sleeving already, but is the pure red going to really match it? MDPC sleeving is what i'm using


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Random question concerning the Monsoon red hardline fittings... what's the best sleeving red we've found to match it? I have white sleeving already, but is the pure red going to really match it? MDPC sleeving is what i'm using


Stamdard Red comes closest. I will try to take a pic side by side of both and get them here for you to see.

Color X is too dark but you really can't go wrong either way.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Random question concerning the Monsoon red hardline fittings... what's the best sleeving red we've found to match it? I have white sleeving already, but is the pure red going to really match it? MDPC sleeving is what i'm using
> 
> 
> 
> Stamdard Red comes closest. I will try to take a pic side by side of both and get them here for you to see.
> 
> Color X is too dark but you really can't go wrong either way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I'd apprecaite that! I have standard red coming in right now... but... once seeing the monsoon red fittings I'm afraid it's too bright compared to the color of the fittings.

Thanks in advance, man!


----------



## Mystriss

Okay that last res picture put me over the edge, even without all my parts I /had/ to put it together:



(will actually have the longer/deeper D5 pump covers on both ends, and a second BH Coupler with the splitter ring from the eventual mating kit)

I've got my MB in benchtop mode while I make a light tray for my MB and do some chassis work so I couldn't take a full rig picture, but I test fit it in the case and I'm sooo happy. \o/ I was a tad worried I wouldn't like that I went with a 50mm for the CPU res and 150mm for the GPU res, but I absolutely /love/ it being unequal. I think I'll run extra hose and reverse it though; put the 50mm section in front of my GPUs and the 150mm section in front of the CPU to even out the visual weight of my layout. (This except with two GPUs, much cleaner cabling, GPU and CPU water blocks, and two stripes of 1/2" light ported white hardline running down either sides of the MB [aka totally different lol] The MMRS goes on the angled front panel):


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Okay that last res picture put me over the edge, even without all my parts I /had/ to put it together:
> 
> 
> 
> (will actually have the longer/deeper D5 pump covers on both ends, and a second BH Coupler with the splitter ring from the eventual mating kit)
> 
> I've got my MB in benchtop mode while I make a light tray for my MB and do some chassis work so I couldn't take a full rig picture, but I test fit it in the case and I'm sooo happy. \o/ I was a tad worried I wouldn't like that I went with a 50mm for the CPU res and 150mm for the GPU res, but I absolutely /love/ it being unequal. I think I'll run extra hose and reverse it though; put the 50mm section in front of my GPUs and the 150mm section in front of the CPU to even out the visual weight of my layout. (This except with two GPUs, much cleaner cabling, GPU and CPU water blocks, and two stripes of 1/2" light ported white hardline running down either sides of the MB [aka totally different lol] The MMRS goes on the angled front panel):


Hard not to like that frosted clear/white tube. How is that angled plate mounted to the case...and are you going to back light it for a "shadow edge" like look? I ask about mounting because if you have dual D5's mounted to the plate...you will want to mechanically decouple it somehow if you can.


----------



## Unnatural

@BoxGods, if I remember correctly, you said some weeks ago that, after the first stock, you revised the Fill Drain Port Base so the new ones have screw holes for the side mounts / CCFL holders.
Do you know if ppcs already cycled away the old ones?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Okay that last res picture put me over the edge, even without all my parts I /had/ to put it together:
> 
> 
> 
> (will actually have the longer/deeper D5 pump covers on both ends, and a second BH Coupler with the splitter ring from the eventual mating kit)
> 
> I've got my MB in benchtop mode while I make a light tray for my MB and do some chassis work so I couldn't take a full rig picture, but I test fit it in the case and I'm sooo happy. \o/ I was a tad worried I wouldn't like that I went with a 50mm for the CPU res and 150mm for the GPU res, but I absolutely /love/ it being unequal. I think I'll run extra hose and reverse it though; put the 50mm section in front of my GPUs and the 150mm section in front of the CPU to even out the visual weight of my layout. (This except with two GPUs, much cleaner cabling, GPU and CPU water blocks, and two stripes of 1/2" light ported white hardline running down either sides of the MB [aka totally different lol] The MMRS goes on the angled front panel):


What do you mean a longer / deeper D5 pump covers? I thought there's only 1 size for the D5 pump cover? Or Monsoon has a longer cover for it?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> check out this monsoon goodness that just arrived!


how much did that set you back? I'm looking for something similar in size but with black rods as I bought a black/green primo and need some green accents...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> how much did that set you back? I'm looking for something similar in size but with black rods as I bought a black/green primo and need some green accents...


I priced out a similar setup and it was in the 150ish range.

(my total was 205 however I didnt have feet nor cathodes but I did have 6 stop plugs and 4 bitspower fill ports, so 150ish is a good guess)

If you went with the predone Customizable however then you are look at 140 or so.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-fully-assembled-and-customizable-reservoir-style-7.html

(137.90 with his choices)


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What do you mean a longer / deeper D5 pump covers? I thought there's only 1 size for the D5 pump cover? Or Monsoon has a longer cover for it?


The longer pump covers I was talking about aren't out yet, but they're for the AquaComputer D5 pumps which have connections on the backside for the USB/Aquaero controller, temp probes, etc. so they need to be just a hair longer:



One can /almost/ make it work with the current cover, but Gene was kind enough to see about making some longer covers for us AquaComputer pump folks









The current size pump cover fits standard D5 pumps great. I have a Swiftech MPC655-PWM in this pump cover and you can see how perfectly everything lines up:



----
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Hard not to like that frosted clear/white tube. How is that angled plate mounted to the case...and are you going to back light it for a "shadow edge" like look? I ask about mounting because if you have dual D5's mounted to the plate...you will want to mechanically decouple it somehow if you can.


Pfft I could just bill all my singing as "metal"









Heh. The panel is tension fit so I'm going to add (up to 1/8" thick) sound dampener padding as needed along the front of the chassis behind it, and possibly some thinner 1/16" padding under the res mounts. Should be more than enough to de-rattle it while I'm recording since the pumps will be running low. I'm inverting the res (ports facing downward) so I'll most likely be mounting the MMRS to the front panel rather than the angled out part (where the clear mounts are now) and can secure the MMRS solid. The angled out part is really just there to hide the tangled external to internal guts of the water loop beneath the res and keep the look up top clean.

  

On the lighting, I was thinking to do a backlight glow under the res as a nod to the original inspiration of my entire build - the way the blue led's on the Corsair K90 keyboard reflected on its brushed aluminum:



My lighting setup is pretty intense... I'm just about done with my (latest as I've done three or four trying to get it just right) light tray which does a defused glow right along the edges of the MB and the twin white hardline tubes that run to the CPU and GPU blocks on either side of the MB will light up as well.

The LED "interface" I'm building is modular, like I can do normal stuff like solid light, a bunch of flash patterns, breathing, but I can also can link any of the individually lit elements to light up Hz and/or channels off my rig's audio and I'll be able to switch everything around whenever I want. So I can have the full right channel on one hardline tube on one side of the MB and full left channel on one of the hardline tubes on the other side of the MB, have one of each of the twin hardline tubes flashing treble off the right and left channel on either or both sides of the MB, have the whole thing flash to bass, have the mb tray flash treble hardlines bass and res rear channel, etc. etc. It's going to be quite a lighting toy heh


----------



## BoxGods

Can't wait to see it all done!


----------



## Mystriss

One of these years it will be done


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> how much did that set you back? I'm looking for something similar in size but with black rods as I bought a black/green primo and need some green accents...


Quick warning you may wish to know of regarding the Primo. If you plan on using the reservoir bracket, none of the pre-drilled holes will work, so you need to drill them. If you face the front, the best position to avoid conflicts with the optical bay cage would be to drill holes 6 mm from right of the "center" hole and 20 mm to the left of it. And remember to add 24 mm to any height calculations.

But yeah, it's a bit of an annoyance, having to work so much to get my res fitted right (in addition to that, I had to decrease the bracket width to account for my current GPU and cut part of the GPU housing to stop it from interfering). Still. it's gonna look amazing once I have everything set up, so hopefully I'll have pictures.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> Quick warning you may wish to know of regarding the Primo. If you plan on using the reservoir bracket, none of the pre-drilled holes will work, so you need to drill them. If you face the front, the best position to avoid conflicts with the optical bay cage would be to drill holes 6 mm from right of the "center" hole and 20 mm to the left of it. And remember to add 24 mm to any height calculations.
> 
> But yeah, it's a bit of an annoyance, having to work so much to get my res fitted right (in addition to that, I had to decrease the bracket width to account for my current GPU and cut part of the GPU housing to stop it from interfering). Still. it's gonna look amazing once I have everything set up, so hopefully I'll have pictures.


i havent decided yet.. ill use the res bracket at first for sure as im using my old res and mounting a second res hidden connected to a second pump for better flow and redundancy as well as filling without using the h220x fillport which is tedious and makes me angry... thanks for the heads up though i plan to add a nice res that matches the build later on.... i have the rads and everything except i realized im going to come up short on tubing so i have to order more when i get paid.. thats why i havent moved my stuff over yet....


----------



## Brunoper

I have on quick question, the top part on the cast that is screwed in, stays screwed in? I was watching the install video for the pump and the one in the video did not have it.


----------



## xerythul

Yup it stays screwed in and acts as an anti-vortex device. The reason you don't see it in the video is because I don't believe Monsoon was putting them on at that point so welcome to the 2nd gen already ;-)


----------



## Brunoper

Awesome, thank you for the reply.









Here it is Assembled.


----------



## BoxGods

Update on Sketchup models.

I have gotten the CAD files for each part to import into Sketchup--finally--and although they look great and are scaled correctly they are pretty much worthless as far as I am concerned because none of the vertices are clickable so I can't add in handles so you can easily assemble them and if you can't assemble them what is the point?

The program is not sophisticated enough to easily create models as nice looking as the imported parts and I don't have time to draw them all out by hand even if it could.

Sorry.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Random question concerning the Monsoon red hardline fittings... what's the best sleeving red we've found to match it? I have white sleeving already, but is the pure red going to really match it? MDPC sleeving is what i'm using
> 
> 
> 
> Stamdard Red comes closest. I will try to take a pic side by side of both and get them here for you to see.
> 
> Color X is too dark but you really can't go wrong either way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd apprecaite that! I have standard red coming in right now... but... once seeing the monsoon red fittings I'm afraid it's too bright compared to the color of the fittings.
> 
> Thanks in advance, man!
Click to expand...

Yeah actually Monsoon color x is closer to Monsoon red. Sorry for the cornfusion. I looked at mine yesterday and while it doesn't clash, it's noticeably different.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Random question concerning the Monsoon red hardline fittings... what's the best sleeving red we've found to match it? I have white sleeving already, but is the pure red going to really match it? MDPC sleeving is what i'm using
> 
> 
> 
> Stamdard Red comes closest. I will try to take a pic side by side of both and get them here for you to see.
> 
> Color X is too dark but you really can't go wrong either way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd apprecaite that! I have standard red coming in right now... but... once seeing the monsoon red fittings I'm afraid it's too bright compared to the color of the fittings.
> 
> Thanks in advance, man!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah actually Monsoon color x is closer to Monsoon red. Sorry for the cornfusion. I looked at mine yesterday and while it doesn't clash, it's noticeably different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Dangit... I got red on the way already. Any chance you have the things easily enough accessible to take a picture to compare the two with the fitting?


----------



## BoxGods

Spoke too soon--maybe--on those sketch up models. Was just talking to a buddy about it and he suggested a few things to try. Cross your fingers.


----------



## BoxGods

Well thanks to my buddy Jeff in Portland I found the ONE little box I didn't have checked in Sketchup that was hiding the assembly handles. Still will have a lot of work adding handles to every part but that is certainly better than drawing out every part by hand.



How cool is THAT?

Thanks man much appreciated!


----------



## ruffhi

@Gene - that is looking pretty good.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> @Gene - that is looking pretty good.


Thanks =)

Did you ever have a chance to look at the file I sent you?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> @Gene - that is looking pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks =)
> 
> Did you ever have a chance to look at the file I sent you?
Click to expand...

Errr ... did you send it? I'll PM you.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Well thanks to my buddy Jeff in Portland I found the ONE little box I didn't have checked in Sketchup that was hiding the assembly handles. Still will have a lot of work adding handles to every part but that is certainly better than drawing out every part by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> How cool is THAT?
> 
> Thanks man much appreciated!


this would give people a better idea if exactly which parts they need to order as well...


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Awesome, thank you for the reply.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it is Assembled.


Dammit man, now you got me thinking I want chrome pump covers - that looks awesome!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Well thanks to my buddy Jeff in Portland I found the ONE little box I didn't have checked in Sketchup that was hiding the assembly handles. Still will have a lot of work adding handles to every part but that is certainly better than drawing out every part by hand.
> 
> 
> 
> How cool is THAT?
> 
> Thanks man much appreciated!


ooooo those look great!


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Dammit man, now you got me thinking I want chrome pump covers - that looks awesome!
> ooooo those look great!


Isn't this the coupler? what' so special it?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> ooooo those look great!
> 
> 
> 
> Isn't this the coupler? what' so special it?
Click to expand...

Yes ... it is the coupler. In SketchUp. Once all the parts with handles are available, you can build your own reservoir in sketchup and ensure that you don't screw up your parts order. Or experiment with colors ... or lengths ... etc.


----------



## CrazyCreator

where I find the files?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Random question concerning the Monsoon red hardline fittings... what's the best sleeving red we've found to match it? I have white sleeving already, but is the pure red going to really match it? MDPC sleeving is what i'm using
> 
> 
> 
> Stamdard Red comes closest. I will try to take a pic side by side of both and get them here for you to see.
> 
> Color X is too dark but you really can't go wrong either way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd apprecaite that! I have standard red coming in right now... but... once seeing the monsoon red fittings I'm afraid it's too bright compared to the color of the fittings.
> 
> Thanks in advance, man!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah actually Monsoon color x is closer to Monsoon red. Sorry for the cornfusion. I looked at mine yesterday and while it doesn't clash, it's noticeably different.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Dangit... I got red on the way already. Any chance you have the things easily enough accessible to take a picture to compare the two with the fitting?
Click to expand...

I have no color X on hand at this time so I will get a pic of the Red with a couple Monsoon fittings I have sitting on my desk. Should have it posted by tomorrow at the latest.









~Ceadder


----------



## james41382

I love my D5 pump, but at certain speeds it creates quite a bit of vibration and that vibration can become noise is not properly decoupled from the case. The new D5 Revo from EK looks to do a good job of decoupling the pump from the mount, but I'm not a big fan from an aesthetic perspective.

I'm considering this reservoir, Monsoon MMRS Fully Assembled and Customizable Reservoir - Style 6.

1. Is there anyone that can comment on the noise level from the D5s due to vibration?

2. Does the D5 mounted on the top have an increased chance of running dry because it's above the reservoir?


----------



## RDKing2

I have two D5's running at full speed in my loop. Mounted with a couple of layers of 3M VHB tape. I cannot even hear them.


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I love my D5 pump, but at certain speeds it creates quite a bit of vibration and that vibration can become noise is not properly decoupled from the case. The new D5 Revo from EK looks to do a good job of decoupling the pump from the mount, but I'm not a big fan from an aesthetic perspective.
> 
> I'm considering this reservoir, Monsoon MMRS Fully Assembled and Customizable Reservoir - Style 6.
> 
> 1. Is there anyone that can comment on the noise level from the D5s due to vibration?
> 
> 2. Does the D5 mounted on the top have an increased chance of running dry because it's above the reservoir?


Yes absolutely it will of course run dry. That design is not meant to be used vertically because it just won't work, well one pump won't, but rather mounted flat/horizontally.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I love my D5 pump, but at certain speeds it creates quite a bit of vibration and that vibration can become noise is not properly decoupled from the case. The new D5 Revo from EK looks to do a good job of decoupling the pump from the mount, but I'm not a big fan from an aesthetic perspective.
> 
> I'm considering this reservoir, Monsoon MMRS Fully Assembled and Customizable Reservoir - Style 6.
> 
> 1. Is there anyone that can comment on the noise level from the D5s due to vibration?
> 
> 2. Does the D5 mounted on the top have an increased chance of running dry because it's above the reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes absolutely it will of course run dry. That design is not meant to be used vertically because it just won't work, well one pump won't, but rather mounted flat/horizontally.
Click to expand...

Exactly, no Pump should ever be run upside down and doing so would burn one up the moment it doesn't have access to coolant.









Now one *could* block off the intake if it's threaded and run that unit with the pump cover strictly for looks. But I'll assume that Monsoon doesn't thread the Intake portion of that cap. However a G1/4 tap and the cajones to mod that pump top would solve that issue with a cap inserted into it under the pump cover.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I love my D5 pump, but at certain speeds it creates quite a bit of vibration and that vibration can become noise is not properly decoupled from the case. The new D5 Revo from EK looks to do a good job of decoupling the pump from the mount, but I'm not a big fan from an aesthetic perspective.
> 
> I'm considering this reservoir, Monsoon MMRS Fully Assembled and Customizable Reservoir - Style 6.
> 
> 1. Is there anyone that can comment on the noise level from the D5s due to vibration?
> 
> 2. Does the D5 mounted on the top have an increased chance of running dry because it's above the reservoir?


What they said however I wouldn't run 2 pumps like that even horizontally. If you did that would be in parallel, parallel pumps adds zero performance gain at all and actually is bad for reliability as if one dies it will add restriction for the other. Its one of those just dont do it things







.

However Ceaders idea is good I was considering that earlier in the thread







. Mystriss also has a good idea for how to use both caps with 2 pumps in serial. However that would require the reservoir being horizontal.


----------



## james41382

From the PPCS page in the options it appears as though there are 2 places to mount pumps. I don't understand why it's designed that way if it's not plausible to actually mount a pump there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> What they said however I wouldn't run 2 pumps like that even horizontally. If you did that would be in parallel, parallel pumps adds zero performance gain at all and actually is bad for reliability as if one dies it will add restriction for the other. Its one of those just dont do it things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> However Ceaders idea is good I was considering that earlier in the thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mystriss also has a good idea for how to use both caps with 2 pumps in serial. However that would require the reservoir being horizontal.


I want to mount the res. vertical, but I would like the pumps in series. With that being said I guess this will not work for me.


----------



## james41382

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RDKing2*
> 
> I have two D5's running at full speed in my loop. Mounted with a couple of layers of 3M VHB tape. I cannot even hear them.


Mine is PWM so the speed changes based on the CPU temp because that's the header I have it connected to. It's fine at most speeds, but between 2500 and 3200 RPMs it makes an audible whirring sound and vibrates the case. So I've changed it in the BIOS to run between 3500 and max.


----------



## james41382

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes absolutely it will of course run dry. That design is not meant to be used vertically because it just won't work, well one pump won't, but rather mounted flat/horizontally.


I don't get it in that case.. is it supposed to be just for looks? Or is it just a bad design?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> From the PPCS page in the options it appears as though there are 2 places to mount pumps. I don't understand why it's designed that way if it's not plausible to actually mount a pump there.
> I want to mount the res. vertical, but I would like the pumps in series. With that being said I guess this will not work for me.


Well in the PPCs page it shows that because it can be done and mounted horizontally, albeit I wouldn't advise it. This is because all end caps can be on either side including the pump end caps.

There is no reservoir in the world that will achieve that in the way you want. What you could do is use a pump top that has a reservoir mounted on top that has dual pumps in series, like you could get the dual revo and screw the reservoir on with a male to male coupler. However ya a pump can not be mounted upside down, that is not a limitation of the reservoir that is a limitation of the pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I don't get it in that case.. is it supposed to be just for looks? Or is it just a bad design?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I don't get it in that case.. is it supposed to be just for looks? Or is it just a bad design?


Not sure how its a bad design? It is a bad marketing picture, but the pump top for the reservoir is designed to work on either side. So they're is really no way to design it so you cant do that lol.

Gene made the marketing pic to show what you could do, however he assumed that people would do this in a horizontal way, (Probably not the best idea) . Which in theory you could but I wouldn't run pumps in parallel you could if you wanted to though which is what gene was trying to portray.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I don't get it in that case.. is it supposed to be just for looks? Or is it just a bad design?


It isn't a bad design, it just isn't designed to be run vertically. They probably took the picture of it standing up so that you can see what it looks like with the ports and all - which is the easiest way without getting someone hands in the picture to keep it from rolling to one side of the other.


----------



## james41382

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well in the PPCs page it shows that because it can be done and mounted horizontally, albeit I wouldn't advise it. This is because all end caps can be on either side including the pump end caps.
> 
> There is no reservoir in the world that will achieve that in the way you want. What you could do is use a pump top that has a reservoir mounted on top that has dual pumps in series, like you could get the dual revo and screw the reservoir on with a male to male coupler. However ya a pump can not be mounted upside down, that is not a limitation of the reservoir that is a limitation of the pump.


I'm aware that a D5 cannot be mounted upside down. That's why I was confused when I saw this configuration, but after asking here I realized that it is meant to be horizontal.


----------



## james41382

I wonder if I could configure one of these to have 2 D5s in series, but mounted right side up below the reservoir.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I wonder if I could configure one of these to have 2 D5s in series, but mounted right side up below the reservoir.


One reservoir running to 2 different pumps using the multi port end cap ? Only hesitation I would have with that is that there might be too much suction causing a vortex in the reservoir. The trident is only meant for 1 pump I doubt it has been rated to withstand 2 pumps at full speed.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I'm aware that a D5 cannot be mounted upside down. That's why I was confused when I saw this configuration, but after asking here I realized that it is meant to be horizontal.


Well like Ceader said you could plug the cap and make it look like that with only 1 d5. What I am saying is that he didn't design it that way on purpose just kind the nature of the way the system works that config could work. If I were gene I would tap those threads or make that an optional cap that can hold the pump sleeve for appearances. As that is a cool looking design but in no world should anyone ever run parallel pumps so the effect is lost. Then again with the new couplers coming out serial is possible so we get the effect back lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I wonder if I could configure one of these to have 2 D5s in series, but mounted right side up below the reservoir.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I wonder if I could configure one of these to have 2 D5s in series, but mounted right side up below the reservoir.


Ya you could, you could use one with the reservoir cap and from its out go to a standalones in and then from the standalones out to the rest of the loop easy peasy.


----------



## james41382

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well like Ceader said you could plug the cap and make it look like that with only 1 d5. What I am saying is that he didn't design it that way on purpose just kind the nature of the way the system works that config could work. If I were gene I would tap those threads or make that an optional cap that can hold the pump sleeve for appearances. As that is a cool looking design but in no world should anyone ever run parallel pumps so the effect is lost. Then again with the new couplers coming out serial is possible so we get the effect back lol.


It's not about the look. I actually want to run 2 D5s in serial.


----------



## james41382

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well like Ceader said you could plug the cap and make it look like that with only 1 d5. What I am saying is that he didn't design it that way on purpose just kind the nature of the way the system works that config could work. If I were gene I would tap those threads or make that an optional cap that can hold the pump sleeve for appearances. As that is a cool looking design but in no world should anyone ever run parallel pumps so the effect is lost. Then again with the new couplers coming out serial is possible so we get the effect back lol.
> 
> Ya you could, you could use one with the reservoir cap and from its out go to a standalones in and then from the standalones out to the rest of the loop easy peasy.


Yeah I thought about that. I'm still wondering about pump noise with these guys. As I said a few posts back the new EK Revo housings look really promising with the nice rubber decoupling, but I'm not crazy about them aesthetically.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Well like Ceader said you could plug the cap and make it look like that with only 1 d5. What I am saying is that he didn't design it that way on purpose just kind the nature of the way the system works that config could work. If I were gene I would tap those threads or make that an optional cap that can hold the pump sleeve for appearances. As that is a cool looking design but in no world should anyone ever run parallel pumps so the effect is lost. Then again with the new couplers coming out serial is possible so we get the effect back lol.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not about the look. I actually want to run 2 D5s in serial.
Click to expand...

Well then you *could* get a stand alone D5 kit and pipe the Res outlet to it and then use the stand alone as your serial pump pushing the coolant through your loop or put it somewhere in the middle. I would suggest the latter because as reasoning pointed out above multiple times. Then just run a traditional MMRS with one Pump setup only. THat's the neat thing about the MMRS system is you can configure it any way to your liking within reason of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> What they said however I wouldn't run 2 pumps like that even horizontally. If you did that would be in parallel, parallel pumps adds zero performance gain at all and actually is bad for reliability as if one dies it will add restriction for the other. Its one of those just dont do it things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> However Ceaders idea is good I was considering that earlier in the thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mystriss also has a good idea for how to use both caps with 2 pumps in serial. However that would require the reservoir being horizontal.


I didn't do it!!! Wait...

Yea, my res has always been horizontal as its going in an HTPC chassis - I'll have a mating kit splitter ring:



in mine so it's actually two separate reservoirs and pumps, rather than pumps in serial. Though I will have a second pump in a SAP on my GPU loop, mostly as a reserve/emergency pump.

I'm no hydro-engineer, but given that it's a closed loop system couldn't one add the pump where-ever in the loop and still get a pressure increase? I've been told that I can put second rad's and reservoirs [almost] anywhere I wanted, or even have no res at all. (I was told that while the "norm" is putting a res just before the pump so that the pump always has water, it wasn't technically necessary to do so; just makes start up, and burping, a lot easier. I wasn't originally going to have a res in my top case; I was going to have three separate tiny res & pump combos fit in where-ever I could in my build but I ran completely out of room. I used to be mildly upset about the res in the top case thing because I wasn't pleased with the aesthetics, but I'm totally stoked with how the MMRS looks, it's gonna look great up top







Sorry rambling...) Anyway, I would think that while perhaps not as great as true serial, that two pumps anywhere in the loop would still benefit the pressure & flow.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> couldn't one add the pump where-ever in the loop and still get a pressure increase?


Yes - you can place the second pump anywhere and still gain the benefits of a serial pump setup.

....and like you state, a res is not a necessity by any means - It just looks good and can help with bleeding of course. Technically a vertical rad for instance could also be utilised at the same time as a reservoir with no need for a separate device.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> couldn't one add the pump where-ever in the loop and still get a pressure increase?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes - you can place the second pump anywhere and still gain the benefits of a serial pump setup.
> 
> ....and like you state, a res is not a necessity by any means - It just looks good and can help with bleeding of course. Technically a vertical rad for instance could also be utilised at the same time as a reservoir with no need for a separate device.
Click to expand...

Actually it kinda is. Mostly for precautionary purposes, but as you say there are ways of getting around it. None that I wish to try but doable of course.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually it kinda is. Mostly for precautionary purposes, but as you say there are ways of getting around it. None that I wish to try but doable of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea I wasn't keen to mess with it myself, which is how I ended up with the now useless FrozenQ reservoir... I'm thinking about turning it into a modern art accent light that's reset into the wall


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Yea I wasn't keen to mess with it myself, which is how I ended up with the now useless FrozenQ reservoir... I'm thinking about turning it into a modern art accent light that's reset into the wall


Bwahaha T Virus in the wall FTW, is it green too







.

You dont need a res you dont even need to turn a rad straight up honestly. Its archicac idea these days but back in the day no one used reses, It was all about the T Line. It was harder to bleed and didn't give you a buffer but defiantly doable, fun fact reservoirs actually hurt flow rate, not by much but they do. The bigger the reservoir the more it hurts flow, of course even with a huge reservoir it wont hurt it by that much its pretty negligible.

Sorry for letting the cat out of bag about the pump idea


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Bwahaha T Virus in the wall FTW, is it green too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> You dont need a res you dont even need to turn a rad straight up honestly. Its archicac idea these days but back in the day no one used reses, It was all about the T Line. It was harder to bleed and didn't give you a buffer but defiantly doable, fun fact reservoirs actually hurt flow rate, not by much but they do. The bigger the reservoir the more it hurts flow, of course even with a huge reservoir it wont hurt it by that much its pretty negligible.
> 
> Sorry for letting the cat out of bag about the pump idea


it's so negligible I challenge you to find an instance where flow was affected enough to matter







you could add up all the rads all the fittings and any size res and I'd wager it's not even close to being as restrictive as one cpu block unless qdcs are used


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Yea I wasn't keen to mess with it myself, which is how I ended up with the now useless FrozenQ reservoir... I'm thinking about turning it into a modern art accent light that's reset into the wall
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bwahaha T Virus in the wall FTW, is it green too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> You dont need a res you dont even need to turn a rad straight up honestly. Its archicac idea these days but back in the day no one used reses, It was all about the T Line. It was harder to bleed and didn't give you a buffer but defiantly doable, fun fact reservoirs actually hurt flow rate, not by much but they do. The bigger the reservoir the more it hurts flow, of course even with a huge reservoir it wont hurt it by that much its pretty negligible.
> 
> Sorry for letting the cat out of bag about the pump idea
Click to expand...

How does a res hurt flow rate?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> How does a res hurt flow rate?


it's nearly unmeasurable...


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> How does a res hurt flow rate?
> 
> 
> 
> it's nearly unmeasurable...
Click to expand...

Yea, it wasn't making sense to me.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it's so negligible I challenge you to find an instance where flow was affected enough to matter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you could add up all the rads all the fittings and any size res and I'd wager it's not even close to being as restrictive as one cpu block unless qdcs are used


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> it's nearly unmeasurable...


I wouldn't go that far, a typically size reservoir in a loop will add maybe .1psi restriction to a loop, by typically size I mean a 250ml. However I said it becomes more so a problem with size, for instance in waterchillers where the large buffer is needed. A 5 gallon reservoir can add about 1 - 1.5psi restriction to the loop.

Now on to just how negligible that is, well I will take a quote from you.

"you could add up all the rads all the fittings and any size res and I'd wager it's not even close to being as restrictive as one cpu block unless qdcs are used" this is seriously wrong. A typical high flow CPU block (which is what we use today) is only about .9PSI, a Typical Radiator is .25PSI, 3 rads and you just matched a CPU block. A Hardware Labs GTX rad has a .7psi drop, that is almost as much as a CPU block by itself. Do not underestimate flow restriction , yes those restriction numbers are low but so are our pumps ability's. A stock D5 at speed 5 can muster through 4.72 PSI, however turn that down to speed 4 and now we are at 3.23, on speed 2 which alot of people run it well it cant handle much in the way of restriction.

I also didn't need to put it together and total it up as others already have







here is a great resource that all watercoolers should know about here on OCN. http://www.overclock.net/t/1108918/what-can-my-pump-handle-a-guide
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> How does a res hurt flow rate?


I honestly don't know why it does for sure, I know why the community thinks it does, there is a theory that it is because the water entering the reservoir slows down and then speeds up again through the pump. This adds restriction, as it mixes with the slow moving large body of water.

I think alot of watercoolers here on OCN and elsewhere like to think this hobby and community is new, it isnt. Watercooling has been around since the early 2000s and not until around 2010/2011ish did resovoirs actually become the mainstream where everyone used them. So for over half of the life of our hobby reservoirs were not used.

This wasn't because there was not reservoirs to use, it was because of flow rate issues (back then with very restrictive cpu blocks it was a bigger deal) and because they seen them as unneeded which aside from helping to bleed a loop they kinda are. They look awesome and that does give them something to the table and the have became the fad, but to say they are required or serve any purpose other than looking pretty and helping bleeding and a small buffer (irrelevant after about 10 mins) well they do not.

All that said I am with you guys I like reservoirs, I like the way they look and that they are easier to bleed, I am just saying do not think they help performance they do not and if you find yourself in a tight spot where you have issues fitting one do not be scared to go T Line people were using just T lines for longer than we have reservoirs. I started watercooling right around the switch my first ever loop (which wasn't that great my first 2 I dont really consider my first loops lol) used a T line. My second was a Thermal Take big water 735 back in 2009 lol that thing was horrible, my first real loop IMO was a XSPC Rasa kit and that had a reservoir. Before that it was aquarium pumps and crappy blocks hehehe.


----------



## Ceadderman

I dunno, I believe that the necessity to see the level of the coolant as well as the bubbles/lack thereof, sort of makes it mandatory.

Watercooling actually started up round 98. I know this because I lived in Boise, ID at the time and remember procuring parts from a mom and pop shop where they were talking about it and remember how I felt about the idea of adding liquid of any kind to an Electronic device. Let's just say, that before the advent of manufactured blocks and radiators on a global scale, I didn't feel too keen to jump in the pool. I did admire those with the time and the wherewithal to do so, but I didn't have either at the time.









I did finally get my system wet first with the h50 and then with a ful custom loop but only 15 years after the day I'd first heard anything about watercooling. And I've learnt alot over that span of time.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I dunno, I believe that the necessity to see the level of the coolant as well as the bubbles/lack thereof, sort of makes it mandatory.
> 
> Watercooling actually started up round 98. I know this because I lived in Boise, ID at the time and remember procuring parts from a mom and pop shop where they were talking about it and remember how I felt about the idea of adding liquid of any kind to an Electronic device. Let's just say, that before the advent of manufactured blocks and radiators on a global scale, I didn't feel too keen to jump in the pool. I did admire those with the time and the wherewithal to do so, but I didn't have either at the time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did finally get my system wet first with the h50 and then with a ful custom loop but only 15 years after the day I'd first heard anything about watercooling. And I've learnt alot over that span of time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Being able to see the coolant is more important now that is true, Back then all the tube was pretty much clear and everyone had colored fluid so ya it was a little different.

And ya ahh the days of handmade blocks aquarium pumps and motorcycle radiators hahaha. Thats why I said the rasa was my first real loop, my first loop was a ghetto mess like above hahaha. It was a core 2 duo rig still got around here somewhere well the board, and a Lian Li case thats now be degraded to scrap alu. Then the Big Water and well lets just say that thing was pretty bad, but better that case actually had a window with a X58 Classy that is still one of my favorite looking boards of all time, it was in a Xaser 5. Ahh memories.

I am not saying reservoirs dont serve a purpose they do, I am just saying you can easily get by without one.


----------



## Ceadderman

Sure can but I wouldn't suggest it. If you're relying on clear tubing for feedback, it's too late for the pump imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

I think we all agree that a res is not absolutely necessary, but an MMRS is absolutely mandatory!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I think we all agree that a res is not absolutely necessary, but an MMRS is absolutely mandatory!


Hahaha!







Touche!









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I think we all agree that a res is not absolutely necessary, but an MMRS is absolutely mandatory!


Agreed every watercooler needs at least one of these in there stable







.


----------



## DaClownie

A little word to the wise for those that didn't know (myself included... if you use the reservoir top with side ports, those ports will NOT line up with the out port on the D5 end cap... given that my build is SEVERELY space limited, that's kind of a huge issue now that I have the reservoir assembled. The only way to get them to line up evenly is to have them facing opposite direction.

Looks like it's time to buy a 3 hole end cap and wait for another delivery.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> A little word to the wise for those that didn't know (myself included... if you use the reservoir top with side ports, those ports will NOT line up with the out port on the D5 end cap... given that my build is SEVERELY space limited, that's kind of a huge issue now that I have the reservoir assembled. The only way to get them to line up evenly is to have them facing opposite direction.
> 
> Looks like it's time to buy a 3 hole end cap and wait for another delivery.


the waiting is what kills me...like now I'm waiting till payday for tubing...it's like torture seeing 500 dollars worth of watercooling just sitting there...and it'll be probably another 200 one I decided on these res parts...I thank monsoon for this but my wallet wants to burn you guys down lol


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> A little word to the wise for those that didn't know (myself included... if you use the reservoir top with side ports, those ports will NOT line up with the out port on the D5 end cap... given that my build is SEVERELY space limited, that's kind of a huge issue now that I have the reservoir assembled. The only way to get them to line up evenly is to have them facing opposite direction.
> 
> Looks like it's time to buy a 3 hole end cap and wait for another delivery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the waiting is what kills me...like now I'm waiting till payday for tubing...it's like torture seeing 500 dollars worth of watercooling just sitting there...and it'll be probably another 200 one I decided on these res parts...I thank monsoon for this but my wallet wants to burn you guys down lol
Click to expand...

Actually... the more I think about this, my half asleep brain couldn't process it and it's GOT TO line up. Now that I'm somewhat awake, I'm picturing the pieces in my mind... and they have go in the same direction. When I first looked at it, I was like "They don't line up because of the rods... but they both have the same constraints based on rods. I'll look again in the morning when I get home.

EDIT: Nope... looking at the parts on the blueprints... you can't make it so the side ports on an end cap align with the out port on the D5 end cap. Unless I'm completely dumb, it'll always be askew by about 30 degrees. I'll need to get the end cap with 3 ports instead. 1 plug, 1 fill, 1 reservoir infeed.



Geno's linked size chart from earlier (large version): http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS-DIMS.jpg


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Actually... the more I think about this, my half asleep brain couldn't process it and it's GOT TO line up. Now that I'm somewhat awake, I'm picturing the pieces in my mind... and they have go in the same direction. When I first looked at it, I was like "They don't line up because of the rods... but they both have the same constraints based on rods. I'll look again in the morning when I get home.
> 
> EDIT: Nope... looking at the parts on the blueprints... you can't make it so the side ports on an end cap align with the out port on the D5 end cap. Unless I'm completely dumb, it'll always be askew by about 30 degrees. I'll need to get the end cap with 3 ports instead. 1 plug, 1 fill, 1 reservoir infeed.
> 
> 
> 
> Geno's linked size chart from earlier (large version): http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS-DIMS.jpg


I was pretty sure I seen a pic of him usk,g a coupler up against the pump too and they lined up. However looking at the dimesions pic it doesn't look like they do.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Actually... the more I think about this, my half asleep brain couldn't process it and it's GOT TO line up. Now that I'm somewhat awake, I'm picturing the pieces in my mind... and they have go in the same direction. When I first looked at it, I was like "They don't line up because of the rods... but they both have the same constraints based on rods. I'll look again in the morning when I get home.
> 
> EDIT: Nope... looking at the parts on the blueprints... you can't make it so the side ports on an end cap align with the out port on the D5 end cap. Unless I'm completely dumb, it'll always be askew by about 30 degrees. I'll need to get the end cap with 3 ports instead. 1 plug, 1 fill, 1 reservoir infeed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: MMRS End Caps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Geno's linked size chart from earlier (large version): http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS-DIMS.jpg


I couldn't quite work out what you were trying to work out, so I played lego...
and this is what I think you are thinking about ??

The ports do face the same way.
BUT are slightly offset vertically.
If you use the LHS tension rod as a sighter on the vertical photo, you will notice the D5 port is just outside the rod, while the top "side facing" port is just inside the rod.





*EDIT:* replaced second photo as Censored stamp was covering the fitting


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Actually... the more I think about this, my half asleep brain couldn't process it and it's GOT TO line up. Now that I'm somewhat awake, I'm picturing the pieces in my mind... and they have go in the same direction. When I first looked at it, I was like "They don't line up because of the rods... but they both have the same constraints based on rods. I'll look again in the morning when I get home.
> 
> EDIT: Nope... looking at the parts on the blueprints... you can't make it so the side ports on an end cap align with the out port on the D5 end cap. Unless I'm completely dumb, it'll always be askew by about 30 degrees. I'll need to get the end cap with 3 ports instead. 1 plug, 1 fill, 1 reservoir infeed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: MMRS End Caps
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Geno's linked size chart from earlier (large version): http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS-DIMS.jpg
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't quite work out what you were trying to work out, so I played lego...
> and this is what I think you are thinking about ??
> 
> The ports do face the same way.
> BUT are slightly offset vertically.
> If you use the LHS tension rod as a sighter on the vertical photo, you will notice the D5 port is just outside the rod, while the top "side facing" port is just inside the rod.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT:* replaced second photo as Censored stamp was covering the fitting
Click to expand...

I need a vacation. I'll confirm my stupidity when I get home tomorrow morning. Thanks for the pics and the peace of mind until I return home


----------



## jincuteguy

CAn Monsoon make the D5 cap with 2 ports instead of 1? So it looks better?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> I don't get it in that case.. is it supposed to be just for looks? Or is it just a bad design?


No no, it's not bad design at all. That config has very limited practical uses so I assume it was assembled just to highlight the modularity of the MMRS system. Being available as individual parts makes even questionable arangments possible and your imagination is the limitation.

That particular setup is not completely crazy though. It could be used to power two loops that share a common res without being just set in series. Sharing the res counters the main issue with dual loops whereby if only one loop is heavily loaded the cooling power of the other loop is effectively wasted.

As talked about above using pumps in a parallel config is bad for our water cooling purposes. It's not that the second pump is restrictive if it fails though, it's actually the opposite. The pump is very non restrictive so if one pump fails then the other pump will push all its flow back through the stopped pump and bypass the cooling loop altogether.


----------



## james41382

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No no, it's not bad design at all. That config has very limited practical uses so I assume it was assembled just to highlight the modularity of the MMRS system. Being available as individual parts makes even questionable arangments possible and your imagination is the limitation.
> 
> That particular setup is not completely crazy though. It could be used to power two loops that share a common res without being just set in series. Sharing the res counters the main issue with dual loops whereby if only one loop is heavily loaded the cooling power of the other loop is effectively wasted.


Perhaps, but if the temperature is going to be spread through both loops why not just do 1 loop with the pumps in series?


----------



## Jakusonfire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> Perhaps, but if the temperature is going to be spread through both loops why not just do 1 loop with the pumps in series?


Only because the temp is spread in a slightly different way, and two loops can provide different flow rates for different parts ... or just for aesthetics.
It can be beneficial. If you have a restrictive CPU loop you can still have a very high flow GPU loop.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> CAn Monsoon make the D5 cap with 2 ports instead of 1? So it looks better?


But a individual pump only has 1 output so why make a dummy outlet? You are talking about the pump mount endcap correct?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> No no, it's not bad design at all. That config has very limited practical uses so I assume it was assembled just to highlight the modularity of the MMRS system. Being available as individual parts makes even questionable arangments possible and your imagination is the limitation.
> 
> That particular setup is not completely crazy though. It could be used to power two loops that share a common res without being just set in series. Sharing the res counters the main issue with dual loops whereby if only one loop is heavily loaded the cooling power of the other loop is effectively wasted.


I never even thought of this that is a good idea. Rep for that









What would also be a good idea is using an idea like mystriss's. So the coupler in the center seals each reservoir off, you could run dual loops each with there own reservoir however it would look like there is only 1.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *james41382*
> 
> Perhaps, but if the temperature is going to be spread through both loops why not just do 1 loop with the pumps in series?


I am curious if this would be fact, with the increased flow rates the cooling would be improved, The water temp would be the same in the reservoir but I am not sure the cooling potential differences. I would very much like to see testing on this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Put a individual pump only has 1 output so why make a dummy outlet? You are talking about the pump mount endcap correct?


It would be a dummy endcap, the pumps intake would not be however. The reason to make a dummy endcap would be to have pump covers on either side of the reservoir so that every thing is macthey macthey.


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> That particular setup is not completely crazy though. It could be used to power two loops that share a common res without being just set in series. Sharing the res counters the main issue with dual loops whereby if only one loop is heavily loaded the cooling power of the other loop is effectively wasted.


If you use the triple end cap and block one of them off and use the other two for the tube to the separate pumps wouldn't it create too much suction in one central location and cause a vortex? I know that they have the trident inside of it but could it cancel out that much suction?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> It would be a dummy endcap, the pumps intake would not be however. The reason to make a dummy endcap would be to have pump covers on either side of the reservoir so that every thing is macthey macthey.


Well the port on the side of the cap is an output though not an input and filled by the actual pump so wouldn't you want an end cap with no side ports and no middle port(the intake that traditionally feeds to the pump) but have threads for a pump cover to make it matchey matchey?
Sorry guess i'm not as visual as some of you.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Well the port on the side of the cap is an output though not an input and filled by the actual pump so wouldn't you want an end cap with no side ports and no middle port(the intake that traditionally feeds to the pump) but have threads for a pump cover to make it matchey matchey?
> Sorry guess i'm not as visual as some of you.


Well ideally yes, but gene hasn't made such a cap yet so we are talking about modding what we have to make it work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> If you use the triple end cap and block one of them off and use the other two for the tube to the separate pumps wouldn't it create too much suction in one central location and cause a vortex? I know that they have the trident inside of it but could it cancel out that much suction?


He is talking about using pumps on either side, so it would be like pump a on the left and pump b on the right. Pump As out goes to the GPU loop then into the rad then back into a coupler in the center (or next to the pump). Pump Bs out would to the CPU then to a rad then back to a coupler in the center (or a second coupler next to that pump top.)

I dont know about the trident but there is anti vortex fittings as well. I don't know that impeller might work better than you think. As with anything it would be a game of try it and if you have an issue step back and solve it, it could be done that is for sure just how to achieve it is the question.


----------



## Ceadderman

Here is confirmation on MDPC Red sleeve compared to Monsoon Red...

Well it looks like this is a place holder for the pic. Stupid network is stupid slow tonite.









Will attempt this again in the AM.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Yea so never mind me. It works perfect haha


----------



## Ceadderman

Absolutely smashing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

Man that red and black is attractive... Maybe I'll get red pump covers instead of black; I'd gone with black & white to kind of "hide" the res but maybe I need a pop of color heh


----------



## NeeqOne

I received the parts for my Monsoon reservoir. I am very happy with it.










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## BoxGods

You guys posting build pictures is *not* helping me stay focused on adding handles to all of these Sketchup parts. =)

Ah well I think I have most of the handle placements worked out now as the parts click together fairly easily. I still haven't figured out how to make it so you can change the color on all six tension rods in one shot and doing them one at a time (for a color change) kind of sucks. It does work however and the dimensions are correct so you can assemble what you want then pull any measurements you want/need.

Getting there.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You guys posting build pictures is *not* helping me stay focused on adding handles to all of these Sketchup parts. =)
> 
> Ah well I think I have most of the handle placements worked out now as the parts click together fairly easily. I still haven't figured out how to make it so you can change the color on all six tension rods in one shot and doing them one at a time (for a color change) kind of sucks. It does work however and the dimensions are correct so you can assemble what you want then pull any measurements you want/need.
> 
> Getting there.


looks very nice... when they are all done will they be available for download?


----------



## BoxGods

Yup. I have seen quite a few how to videos on Sketchup so I am also going to try to make a few showing how to assemble the different parts. If I can find out how they make the videos that is.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yup. I have seen quite a few how to videos on Sketchup so I am also going to try to make a few showing how to assemble the different parts. If I can find out how they make the videos that is.


i just downloaded sketchup so i get to learn how to do it myself







ive used blender and this seems easier tbh


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah Sketchup is amazingly "intuitive". I remember about 5 years ago when I found it I spent a ton of time in it designing all sorts of stuff. A buddy and I burned a week of free time drawing a scale model of the Cylon fighter from BSG in exacting detail.

Since then I have spent hours and hours every day in engineering grade parametric solid modeling programs so Sketchup feels very clunky. A bit like going from say Photo Shop to an 8 pack of crayons.

I will be very glad to get these parts done and back to Solidworks =)


----------



## eucalyptus

@boxgoods did you have any pictures to share about the white molded parts?

I don't know if it was my imagination or if you a couple of days ago said you would fix pictures


----------



## NeeqOne

@ BoxGods, what is the height of the vertical mount and when are they going to be available. Moreover, can you upload the engineering drawing for it? Thanks


----------



## Brunoper

I love my MMRS Reservoirs and CCFL Light.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> I love my MMRS Reservoirs and CCFL Light.


Is that Chrome plated tubing? Where did u buy them from and what brand? thx


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Here is confirmation on MDPC Red sleeve compared to Monsoon Red...
> 
> Well it looks like this is a place holder for the pic. Stupid network is stupid slow tonite.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will attempt this again in the AM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well looks like my phone is not gonna upload this bleedin pic.









I disconnected my lap from the network. I disabled the WiFi adapter too, hoping to avoid the phone from competing for WiFi airspace. No go. It just doesn't want to do it. Only thing I can think of is lack of data size available on the 4G network since I've run into my limit. But since I'm on my Network, it shouldn't be an issue regarding Phone's data plan.









On some pleasant news, I've got some Monsoon goodness heading my way. Will try to post pics when they come in this week.









On my build log front, I have included Geno and the Monsoon gang in my list of sponsors/contributors. I will always give credit where it is due after all and they deserve some since they've helped expedite filling out my tube fittings. 27 of them at this point.







Thanks again Geno!









~Ceadder


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well looks like my phone is not gonna upload this bleedin pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I disconnected my lap from the network. I disabled the WiFi adapter too, hoping to avoid the phone from competing for WiFi airspace. No go. It just doesn't want to do it. Only thing I can think of is lack of data size available on the 4G network since I've run into my limit. But since I'm on my Network, it shouldn't be an issue regarding Phone's data plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On some pleasant news, I've got some Monsoon goodness heading my way. Will try to post pics when they come in this week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my build log front, I have included Geno and the Monsoon gang in my list of sponsors/contributors. I will always give credit where it is due after all and they deserve some since they've helped expedite filling out my tube fittings. 27 of them at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again Geno!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Can't wait to see the build log!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> I love my MMRS Reservoirs and CCFL Light.


Wow! How many Monsoon res do you have and is that just an reflection or do you have 2 reservoirs stacked? I think it's a nice Illusion though!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well looks like my phone is not gonna upload this bleedin pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I disconnected my lap from the network. I disabled the WiFi adapter too, hoping to avoid the phone from competing for WiFi airspace. No go. It just doesn't want to do it. Only thing I can think of is lack of data size available on the 4G network since I've run into my limit. But since I'm on my Network, it shouldn't be an issue regarding Phone's data plan.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On some pleasant news, I've got some Monsoon goodness heading my way. Will try to post pics when they come in this week.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my build log front, I have included Geno and the Monsoon gang in my list of sponsors/contributors. I will always give credit where it is due after all and they deserve some since they've helped expedite filling out my tube fittings. 27 of them at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again Geno!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see the build log!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> I love my MMRS Reservoirs and CCFL Light.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wow! How many Monsoon res do you have and is that just an reflection or do you have 2 reservoirs stacked? I think it's a nice Illusion though!
Click to expand...

He has two from what I saw. One was underneath with a D5 and the other is in the MB bay w/o D5. I woulda advised not to run the D5 in that orientation, but with the other Res supplying coolant, it works and looks good.









Just to be clear, I suffer from OCD so seeing it makes me cringe until I take the time to put 2+2 together.







lulz

Build log is up. Just going through the old thread is gonna take awhile. I got 15 pages to wade through. Link is in my sig rigs list.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

I had intended to post pictures of the white parts but I forgot that Sunday was Superbowl Sunday--my wife said no way on a "quick" trip to the shop. Even less chance today for obvious reasons (Feb 14th). I will try for Monday.

Should have dimension drawing for the vertical SAP mount shortly.


----------



## Brunoper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Is that Chrome plated tubing? Where did u buy them from and what brand? thx


I bought it from performance-pcs. It is alphacool, you could get the fittings from them too.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hardtube-13-10mm-brass-chrome-finish-40cm.html

Very easy to cut and install. In addition, it comes with 90° degrees also.


----------



## fast_fate

Special Edition


----------



## Brunoper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Can't wait to see the build log!
> Wow! How many Monsoon res do you have and is that just an reflection or do you have 2 reservoirs stacked? I think it's a nice Illusion though!


I have two Res. One is a 250mm which is on top and one is 100mm at the bottom. Thank you for liking it, I still have to polish my acrylic once I do it, it should reflect better.


----------



## Brunoper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He has two from what I saw. One was underneath with a D5 and the other is in the MB bay w/o D5. I woulda advised not to run the D5 in that orientation, but with the other Res supplying coolant, it works and looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, I suffer from OCD so seeing it makes me cringe until I take the time to put 2+2 together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> Build log is up. Just going through the old thread is gonna take awhile. I got 15 pages to wade through. Link is in my sig rigs list.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah it does work very well, I was able to fill it and have it run without any issues. In addition, It keeps my CPU pretty cool.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> He has two from what I saw. One was underneath with a D5 and the other is in the MB bay w/o D5. I woulda advised not to run the D5 in that orientation, but with the other Res supplying coolant, it works and looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just to be clear, I suffer from OCD so seeing it makes me cringe until I take the time to put 2+2 together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> Build log is up. Just going through the old thread is gonna take awhile. I got 15 pages to wade through. Link is in my sig rigs list.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it does work very well, I was able to fill it and have it run without any issues. In addition, It keeps my CPU pretty cool.
Click to expand...

35c @Idle is pretty good.









Good reason to go with copper tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Brunoper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 35c @Idle is pretty good.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good reason to go with copper tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thank you.







That was my GPU at 34 which is not water cooled. My CPU with 1% load was at 16. I did one more since my last post, almost after 4 hours of prime95 still pretty cool.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> I bought it from performance-pcs. It is alphacool, you could get the fittings from them too.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hardtube-13-10mm-brass-chrome-finish-40cm.html
> 
> Very easy to cut and install. In addition, it comes with 90° degrees also.


Did you bend those chrome tubbing? or just use 90degree fittings? And what do u use to cut those chrome plated tubing?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was my GPU at 34 which is not water cooled. My CPU with 1% load was at 16. I did one more since my last post, almost after 4 hours of prime95 still pretty cool.


What was the CPU temp during 4hour of prime95?


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Special Edition


What's so special about this?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What's so special about this?


Its purple ?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Its purple ?


and it looks nice...I like deep purple and I'm not ashamed of that...I wanted a midnight purple 72 dodge charger with a 440 when I was 17....never did get that one


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> and it looks nice...I like deep purple and I'm not ashamed of that...I wanted a midnight purple 72 dodge charger with a 440 when I was 17....never did get that one


I meant that was why it was special edition. I like purple, I ran a guild across a few MMOs for quite awhile and our colors were black and purple. I always caught flack for it everyone always telling me "Change it to black and red" but I never did. They especially hated it because if you could die your outfit like in ESO, or if you could have a tabard or something I made it black and purple and forced them to wear it hehehe.

I use to have a switch 810 that was black and purple this would have went nicely.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That was my GPU at 34 which is not water cooled. My CPU with 1% load was at 16. I did one more since my last post, almost after 4 hours of prime95 still pretty cool.


can you give me a link to this app?


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Special Edition


Anyone else think that this is a special edition due to the mounting? I haven't seen that before


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Special Edition
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else think that this is a special edition due to the mounting? I haven't seen that before
Click to expand...

Nope. It's mounted using the MMRS mounting only on one end using a UN Radiator mount bracket. Nothing but the purple and single mount setup make it a special edition. It's the purple though.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

It' is "_just_" purple and mounted as Ceadder said









Now...would be nice if an MMRS adjustable rad mount came to fruition so different length tubes could be attached with both (or more) MMRS mounts.
I think a 240 and a 280 version in black should cover just about everyone's requirements.
2 slotted rails that run the length of the rad with 2 cross bars (or more) to attach the MMRS mounts onto.
Sign me up for a pre-order of two of each size please


----------



## Jiryama

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It' is "_just_" purple and mounted as Ceadder said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now...would be nice if an MMRS adjustable rad mount came to fruition so different length tubes could be attached with both (or more) MMRS mounts.
> I think a 240 and a 280 version in black should cover just about everyone's requirements.
> 2 slotted rails that run the length of the rad with 2 cross bars (or more) to attach the MMRS mounts onto.
> Sign me up for a pre-order of two of each size please


I agree that would be very nice, I think it can be done by just making 2 piece as well, 4 if you want to be particular and give more options. Even with just 2 different pieces you can mount any sized reservoir to any size radiator. Just created a slotted piece like the middle bar in the middle of your picture that has a 3mm distance as a gap between the radiator and the mounting piece to allow for a screw head. Since it would be 120x120mm or 140x140mm would only need 2 pieces(120mm and a 140mm) to make it. When assembling if you want to mount on only one side like yours is, buy 3 f the 120mm ones but you can adjust it to the left and the right because they are slotted for like 110mm of the 120. Hope that made sense









The way of making 4 pieces is doing the same 2 pieces as above, but make 2 flat pieces (no 3mm gap riser) in the 120 and 140mm to go across the radiator for the mounting pieces. Then you would buy say 2 120mm gapped and 1 flat.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. It's mounted using the MMRS mounting only on one end using a UN Radiator mount bracket. Nothing but the purple and single mount setup make it a special edition. It's the purple though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So is there any mount from MMRS that works like that UN mount?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> So is there any mount from MMRS that works like that UN mount?


at this point in time I think we have to make our own.
I will be anyway, because I'ld rather have both reservoir mounts attached, rather than just the one as in the photo.

don't forget to post pics of your custom brackets everyone


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What was the CPU temp during 4hour of prime95?


That was the CPU temp.


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What was the CPU temp during 4hour of prime95?


That was the CPU temp.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> can you give me a link to this app?


https://camwebapp.com/


----------



## Methodical

Hello all. I have a question that I am sure someone here can answer. I was just turned onto the Monsoon Modular Reservoir system today and have been placing parts in my wish list at PPCS. I want an all Black water loop (reservoir, tubing), but my concern is how can I determine if I have the correct level of water in the system, especially during the filling process (don't want to run the pump dry). Is it possible to shine a light on the reservoir to the see the water level? I do not want to install any clear tubing at the reservoir at all. I will be using rigid tubing.

Some background: I'm using the Caselab STH10 case. I am going to install a dual water loop; one for 2x gpu and one for cpu. I'm debating between having the pump in the lower chamber (preferred) or attached to the reservoir. I'm using rigid tubing from the reservoirs to the gpu and cpu and clear flexible tubing to the pumps, if installed in the lower chamber, via passthru. I was thinking that I could monitor the clear tubing going to the pump to monitor the water during the filling process, but I am stuck on how to determine the actual water level in the reservoir. I guess I could determine the capacities of each item (gpu, cpu radiator etc.) and fill to the total capacity. I plan to use the pump in the link below along with the Aquero 6 controller. However, I know someone here has a better idea though. Let me know. I'd appreciate any help.

I'm open to any suggestions.

Thanks...Al

http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html


----------



## Brunoper

Here it is, this is CAM from NZXT. I also use it for my LEDS and Fans.

https://camwebapp.com/


----------



## Brunoper

I had a temperature of 34 Celsius.


----------



## Brunoper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Did you bend those chrome tubbing? or just use 90degree fittings? And what do u use to cut those chrome plated tubing?


I did not bend it, I bought it with a 90 degree bent already. To cut it you could do it with a saw from the Monsoon Kit or with a plumbing copper cutter.

Tube:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hardtube-13-10mm-90-brass-chrome-finish-10-30cm.html

Cutter:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Large-Diameter-Mini-Tube-Cutter-HDX006/204218581


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> I did not bend it, I bought it with a 90 degree bent already. To cut it you could do it with a saw from the Monsoon Kit or with a plumbing copper cutter.
> 
> Tube:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-hardtube-13-10mm-90-brass-chrome-finish-10-30cm.html
> 
> Cutter:
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-Large-Diameter-Mini-Tube-Cutter-HDX006/204218581


What ? They sell these chrome plated copper tubing with a pre 90degree bend? I didnt know that.


----------



## Brunoper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What ? They sell these chrome plated copper tubing with a pre 90degree bend? I didnt know that.


Yes they do. It makes life easier, all you have to do is cut.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brunoper*
> 
> Yes they do. It makes life easier, all you have to do is cut.


'
Yea but you can't have multiple bends though, only with 90degree fittings


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope. It's mounted using the MMRS mounting only on one end using a UN Radiator mount bracket. Nothing but the purple and single mount setup make it a special edition. It's the purple though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So is there any mount from MMRS that works like that UN mount?
Click to expand...

That would be no. Which is why there is a UN mount under that Special Edition reservoir.









~Ceadder


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Hello all. I have a question that I am sure someone here can answer. I was just turned onto the Monsoon Modular Reservoir system today and have been placing parts in my wish list at PPCS. I want an all Black water loop (reservoir, tubing), but my concern is how can I determine if I have the correct level of water in the system, especially during the filling process (don't want to run the pump dry). Is it possible to shine a light on the reservoir to the see the water level? I do not want to install any clear tubing at the reservoir at all. I will be using rigid tubing.
> 
> Some background: I'm using the Caselab STH10 case. I am going to install a dual water loop; one for 2x gpu and one for cpu. I'm debating between having the pump in the lower chamber (preferred) or attached to the reservoir. I'm using rigid tubing from the reservoirs to the gpu and cpu and clear flexible tubing to the pumps, if installed in the lower chamber, via passthru. I was thinking that I could monitor the clear tubing going to the pump to monitor the water during the filling process, but I am stuck on how to determine the actual water level in the reservoir. I guess I could determine the capacities of each item (gpu, cpu radiator etc.) and fill to the total capacity. I plan to use the pump in the link below along with the Aquero 6 controller. However, I know someone here has a better idea though. Let me know. I'd appreciate any help.
> 
> I'm open to any suggestions.
> 
> Thanks...Al
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html


I'm pretty sure you will be able to see through the black reservoir if you have a light shining through it. If not, you can always use a fill line and watch where the water comes up to the top of the cap.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> I'm pretty sure you will be able to see through the black reservoir if you have a light shining through it. If not, you can always use a fill line and watch where the water comes up to the top of the cap.


The black is black !!!
not a dark smoked grey.
Not light gets through what-so-ever


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Hello all. I have a question that I am sure someone here can answer. I was just turned onto the Monsoon Modular Reservoir system today and have been placing parts in my wish list at PPCS. I want an all Black water loop (reservoir, tubing), but my concern is how can I determine if I have the correct level of water in the system, especially during the filling process (don't want to run the pump dry). Is it possible to shine a light on the reservoir to the see the water level? I do not want to install any clear tubing at the reservoir at all. I will be using rigid tubing.
> 
> Some background: I'm using the Caselab STH10 case. I am going to install a dual water loop; one for 2x gpu and one for cpu. I'm debating between having the pump in the lower chamber (preferred) or attached to the reservoir. I'm using rigid tubing from the reservoirs to the gpu and cpu and clear flexible tubing to the pumps, if installed in the lower chamber, via passthru. I was thinking that I could monitor the clear tubing going to the pump to monitor the water during the filling process, but I am stuck on how to determine the actual water level in the reservoir. I guess I could determine the capacities of each item (gpu, cpu radiator etc.) and fill to the total capacity. I plan to use the pump in the link below along with the Aquero 6 controller. However, I know someone here has a better idea though. Let me know. I'd appreciate any help.
> 
> I'm open to any suggestions.
> 
> Thanks...Al
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html


Ohi! Should I welcome you to the "waiting for a longer MMRS pump cover solution" club? -- The AQ D5 Pump is /just/ a hair long for the existing cover because of the connections on the back. You /could/ make it work; see my pics w/ the AQD5 in the current pump cover here to help you decide - http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/760#post_24720202 - I believe the couple of us here in this thread with AQ D5's are waiting for the longer cover solution from BoxGods









I had/have the same issue with the water level thing, just not related to MMRS - I spent a good three months trying to hunt down a method to have a water level sensor to the Aquaero for my horizontal res configuration. You didn't say if you were doing horizontal or vertical MMRS, but presuming vertical and with the Aquaero, I'm told you could jerry rig this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-liquid-dual-level-sensor-70mm.html or this http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aqualis-level-measurement-kit-for-aqualis-pro-450-880.html#Details to your aquaero (then you don't need to see inside the res at all.) Unfortunately, I didn't look much further than having them suggested to me because neither work in a horizontal res







so you'll have to do some homework on if they fit and how you'd have to jerry rig them.

If you're not putting in an Aquaero I think the section of clear tube before the pump is your best bet. Unless BoxGod's is hiding a smoke frosted tube from me the black is completely opaque. Personally, I'm going to be making my own electronic water sensor, but I'm not entirely sure when I'll get around to it so it's not likely to help you if you plan on finishing your build in the next few years lol - Still, it will be in my build log whenever I /do/ get around to it


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> and it looks nice...I like deep purple and I'm not ashamed of that...I wanted a midnight purple 72 dodge charger with a 440 when I was 17....never did get that one


Oh man did I ever want a bad a$$ purple Mopar. I daydreamed about that car forever. Built plastic models of it...the works. Ended up with a rusted out baby ****e green Ford Grand Torino with a 351 Cleavland. Had so many rust holes that when I did a smokey burn out (to impress the High School Chicks) the car would fill up with smoke and the trunk with gravel.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It' is "_just_" purple and mounted as Ceadder said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now...would be nice if an MMRS adjustable rad mount came to fruition so different length tubes could be attached with both (or more) MMRS mounts.
> I think a 240 and a 280 version in black should cover just about everyone's requirements.
> 2 slotted rails that run the length of the rad with 2 cross bars (or more) to attach the MMRS mounts onto.
> Sign me up for a pre-order of two of each size please


If you guys want radiator mounts I am happy to do them. Just need more specific comments on how you want them to work. I was thinking 3mm stainless sheet cut to a cool grass hopper like shape (like the kegs of the grass hopper mounts but sized to fit radiator spacing. I will sketch it up and post it for some feed back.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Hello all. I have a question that I am sure someone here can answer. I was just turned onto the Monsoon Modular Reservoir system today and have been placing parts in my wish list at PPCS. I want an all Black water loop (reservoir, tubing), but my concern is how can I determine if I have the correct level of water in the system, especially during the filling process (don't want to run the pump dry). Is it possible to shine a light on the reservoir to the see the water level? I do not want to install any clear tubing at the reservoir at all. I will be using rigid tubing.
> 
> Some background: I'm using the Caselab STH10 case. I am going to install a dual water loop; one for 2x gpu and one for cpu. I'm debating between having the pump in the lower chamber (preferred) or attached to the reservoir. I'm using rigid tubing from the reservoirs to the gpu and cpu and clear flexible tubing to the pumps, if installed in the lower chamber, via passthru. I was thinking that I could monitor the clear tubing going to the pump to monitor the water during the filling process, but I am stuck on how to determine the actual water level in the reservoir. I guess I could determine the capacities of each item (gpu, cpu radiator etc.) and fill to the total capacity. I plan to use the pump in the link below along with the Aquero 6 controller. However, I know someone here has a better idea though. Let me know. I'd appreciate any help.
> 
> I'm open to any suggestions.
> 
> Thanks...Al
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html


Use a Fill Drain Port mounting and just fill it via that untill it is 100% full. Then there is no doubt one way or the other. If you REALLY feel the need to see a water level you could always use an FDP as mentioned, but make it a smaller secondary reservoir with either clear or blood red tube. Use the 50mm long tube and then rout plumbing so it connects into your larger black "show' reservoir. As long as the little satellite reservoir is above the larger black one you know the black one is full if the little one is.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ohi! Should I welcome you to the "waiting for a longer MMRS pump cover solution" club? -- The AQ D5 Pump is /just/ a hair long for the existing cover because of the connections on the back. You /could/ make it work; see my pics w/ the AQD5 in the current pump cover here to help you decide - http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/760#post_24720202 - I believe the couple of us here in this thread with AQ D5's are waiting for the longer cover solution from BoxGods
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had/have the same issue with the water level thing, just not related to MMRS - I spent a good three months trying to hunt down a method to have a water level sensor to the Aquaero for my horizontal res configuration. You didn't say if you were doing horizontal or vertical MMRS, but presuming vertical and with the Aquaero, I'm told you could jerry rig this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-liquid-dual-level-sensor-70mm.html or this http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aqualis-level-measurement-kit-for-aqualis-pro-450-880.html#Details to your aquaero (then you don't need to see inside the res at all.) Unfortunately, I didn't look much further than having them suggested to me because neither work in a horizontal res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so you'll have to do some homework on if they fit and how you'd have to jerry rig them.
> 
> If you're not putting in an Aquaero I think the section of clear tube before the pump is your best bet. Unless BoxGod's is hiding a smoke frosted tube from me the black is completely opaque. Personally, I'm going to be making my own electronic water sensor, but I'm not entirely sure when I'll get around to it so it's not likely to help you if you plan on finishing your build in the next few years lol - Still, it will be in my build log whenever I /do/ get around to it


I would already have had the modified end cap but the shop is empty because of Chinese New year...sorry =(


----------



## Radnad

I like the idea of the grasshopper mounts for the radiator. Maybe even make the legs adjustable so the same mount will fit 120 and 140 spacing.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you guys want radiator mounts I am happy to do them. Just need more specific comments on how you want them to work. I was thinking 3mm stainless sheet cut to a cool grass hopper like shape (like the kegs of the grass hopper mounts but sized to fit radiator spacing. I will sketch it up and post it for some feed back.


Isn't it awesome having "the man" out and about in the community









My main requests are minimal impact on air flow coming through the radiator and that the rad mounts are adjustable to suit different length tubes and possible different positions of the asst. end caps.

Which is why I was thinking about side rails that run the length of the radiator which are grooved/slotted like the UN cross bar.
and then have cross bars which are adjustable in height (by attaching to the side rails) to suit various length reservoir assemblies.

I think that 240 or 280 length side rails are what most users will need, but maybe also consider 120, 140 for SFF builds and the short tube lengths.


----------



## BoxGods

Limited obstruction of the air flow is a given as far as requirements go. I might even include 12mm and 25mm stand offs for those that have the space.

Not 100% sure I like the idea of making the legs fit both sizes (120 and 140) reservoirs. Mostly from an aesthetics perspective. I will have to tinker with that and see how it looks. I do like the idea of making the other end adjustable though--the reservoir mount end.

The real "problem" is not really what size of radiator but is more all the many possible reservoir size configurations. That does make some sort of sliding side rail system an attractive option.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Isn't it awesome having "the man" out and about in the community
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My main requests are minimal impact on air flow coming through the radiator and that the rad mounts are adjustable to suit different length tubes and possible different positions of the asst. end caps.
> 
> Which is why I was thinking about side rails that run the length of the radiator which are grooved/slotted like the UN cross bar.
> and then have cross bars which are adjustable in height (by attaching to the side rails) to suit various length reservoir assemblies.
> 
> I think that 240 or 280 length side rails are what most users will need, but maybe also consider 120, 140 for SFF builds and the short tube lengths.


It would be better to have 120s and 140s that can fit on the rad with there fan spacing. That way if they have a 360 a 420 480 whatever then people are not isolated away from using the mounts. This will also eliminate issues with the fact that some are 20mm spacing and some are 15, and some are 15.7.

The assumption that a lot of people will need 240 and 280 is fairly accurate but not completely. Alot of people have 360mm+ rads in the front of there cases, its always best to make a universal mount.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Limited obstruction of the air flow is a given as far as requirements go. I might even include 12mm and 25mm stand offs for those that have the space.
> 
> Not 100% sure I like the idea of making the legs fit both sizes (120 and 140) reservoirs. Mostly from an aesthetics perspective. I will have to tinker with that and see how it looks. I do like the idea of making the other end adjustable though--the reservoir mount end.
> 
> The real "problem" is not really what size of radiator but is more all the many possible reservoir size configurations. That does make some sort of sliding side rail system an attractive option.


Yeah, I probably wasn't quite clear enough.
I did mean that different length side rails would be needed for different size/length radiators: 240, 280 ect

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> It would be better to have 120s and 140s that can fit on the rad with there fan spacing. That way if they have a 360 a 420 480 whatever then people are not isolated away from using the mounts. This will also eliminate issues with the fact that some are 20mm spacing and some are 15, and some are 15.7.
> 
> The assumption that a lot of people will need 240 and 280 is fairly accurate but not completely. Alot of people have 360mm+ rads in the front of there cases, its always best to make a universal mount.


I'm not convinced a universal mount is going to be doable, but that would be great if it can happen.
and I hear you about the center fan hole spacing, but this is easily overcome with slightly elongated center holes on the rails (such as CaseLabs do on their radiator brackets)

I wouldn't go so far as to say a lot of people have 360s and 420's mounted in the front...
but for those that do, 240/280 side rails should accommodate fitting res lengths of up to 200mm.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Yeah, I probably wasn't quite clear enough.
> I did mean that different length side rails would be needed for different size/length radiators: 240, 280 ect
> I'm not convinced a universal mount is going to be doable, but that would be great if it can happen.
> and I hear you about the center fan hole spacing, but this is easily overcome with slightly elongated center holes on the rails (such as CaseLabs do on their radiator brackets)
> 
> I wouldn't go so far as to say a lot of people have 360s and 420's mounted in the front...
> but for those that do, 240/280 side rails should accommodate fitting res lengths of up to 200mm.


Right but in your idea those people that want longer would need 2 of them. I did not mean alot comparatively, I meant there is more than you think and there is quite a few. Look at the water cooling mega thread, There is quite a few people with 360s in front and more and more cases able to house that in front.

A 120 and 140 option is all that is needed I do not understand why you think that would be any different than a 240? What you are suggesting would require 4+ mounts on the market when only 2 are needed, a 120 and a 140. I do not understand why you think a 120 would not work for a 240. If I get what you are asking for there should be no issue, It connects to the fan hub area, then has sliding grooves the length of the fan just like the UN mount. In this config you lose maybe 50 or 60mm placement where a mount could go odds are that a reservoir will not need to be mounted in side of that area, if it needs to be then raising the top slightly over and thus the bottom as well.



That with 4 slots instead of 2 (having them side by side) would do exactly what is needed. Arguably we could already use this, your thinking in terms of screws but you should be thinking in terms of spreader bars. You could put the spreader bar around the slotted area and secure it on top and bottom by having 2 going vertical.

However I know you did say, you want it to go side to side I believe is what you are requesting. However it shouldn't be built on that axis, as now you are limiting the use of couplers ECT. And making the 2 end caps and tube config the only that will work which deifies the point of the reservoir, the biggest advantage to this reservoir is customization if we build on the vertical axis you put it back into a box like every other reservoir and that would be bad.

The adjustments would have to be vertical only with maybe a few variations at different places on the horizontal axis.

Here is an example of what I mean,



The top set are the actual brackets the bottom are examples of rad mounting.

Gene could make the rails have a sliding top and bottom for the horizontal axis, use some kind of screw and bolt to hold them. This would allow for vertical and horizontal axis to be used, and could still be done in a 120 140 forms only. There is no reason to make a 240 version and only that, just because you only use a 240 rad in front doesn't mean everyone else should be limited to the same.

What if the person that wants this doesn't even have a rad in front but has 3 fan mounts in front which many cases these days do. They could then mount a 300mm reservoir to the fan mounts with out even having a rad there. Or what if we take a case that doesnt have typical rad spacing (theres alot of those as well) as the front is meant only for fans and not a rad, these mounts with your idea would be lost on them. The only way this works and keeps the most usability is if it is sold in 120 and 140mm variants.


----------



## fast_fate

I do see and understand what you're suggesting.
Too much bar work over the rad surface area for my liking.
In any case, I'll make my own, post up the pics and see what design makes it to the shelves to see if I need to purchase.
I totally intend to use the spreader bars and the screws I mentioned in my idea are to adjust the height of the 2 cross bars cross bars to suit the spreader bars on the MMRS mounts.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I do see and understand what you're suggesting.
> Too much bar work over the rad surface area for my liking.
> In any case, I'll make my own, post up the pics and see what design makes it to the shelves to see if I need to purchase.
> I totally intend to use the spreader bars and the screws I mentioned in my idea are to adjust the height of the 2 cross bars cross bars to suit the spreader bars on the MMRS mounts.


That could work, however I do not think I understand what you are suggesting, make a pic for us to see what you mean. Its not really that much bar, as they wouldn't need to be that thick that was just a rough skecth. Also if they were a few mms off the rad (like10), airflow would not be hindered by it at all.


----------



## fast_fate

forgive the very quick and basic paint skills - lol


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I do see and understand what you're suggesting.
> Too much bar work over the rad surface area for my liking.
> In any case, I'll make my own, post up the pics and see what design makes it to the shelves to see if I need to purchase.
> I totally intend to use the spreader bars and the screws I mentioned in my idea are to adjust the height of the 2 cross bars cross bars to suit the spreader bars on the MMRS mounts.
> 
> 
> 
> That could work, however I do not think I understand what you are suggesting, make a pic for us to see what you mean. Its not really that much bar, as they wouldn't need to be that thick that was just a rough skecth. Also if they were a few mms off the rad (like10), airflow would not be hindered by it at all.
Click to expand...

Thats why I like the grasshopper idea, the V shape of the supports will keep most of the rad area clear of obstructions.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> forgive the very quick and basic paint skills - lol


Right well that could be doable in my way as well, with a 120 only version. I had a similar idea except for on the horizontal plane, My way will not add any constraints to your design as you wont use where the middle screw set is for a reservoir mount most likely anyway. On a 360 you may but on a 240 280 you wouldn't.

So I am missing why 2 120s in the same fashion as you illustrate there would be an issue.

Way to get bars out and have all axis's universal as well as be completely universal in a 120 or 140 way.



This would also allow anyone with couplers to install more mounts then just the 2. He could sell extra sliding bars serate, however in the case of a 280 rad you could have 2 couplers with mounts as well as the end mounts. this would be able to grow with larger rads as well (they are there are more needed). He could also add a slow to the support beams on the top and bottom supports (which would need to be there for stability, but would not over or block any airflow.) This would give even more access and reduce the gap between where a mount can be.

BTW that last one is to scale using pixesl, 1 pixel = 1mm, to better illustrate the gap between them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> forgive the very quick and basic paint skills - lol


This is exactly what popped into my skull when you suggested sliding rails.









The side rails would have to be stepped however but that's difficult to show in paint.









~Ceadder


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Thats why I like the grasshopper idea, the V shape of the supports will keep most of the rad area clear of obstructions.


The issue with Grasshopper style is again however you are putting it in a box. This is okay to do so for a reservoir that comes in 1 size such as an EK, but this reservoir is trying to get away from exactly that so this would be counter productive.

A grasshopper would need to be exact, IE this is the res you can use so a 150mm tube for a 240mm rad, you cannot add couplers as they will change it by 1 inch actually a mm less. so we are back to you are stuck with one config and one config only, with an option of top and side ports. A lot of reservoirs have the same top and side port configs as the MMRS the Couplers are what makes this unique, take away the ability to add couplers well than its just like any other reservoir.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Ohi! Should I welcome you to the "waiting for a longer MMRS pump cover solution" club? -- The AQ D5 Pump is /just/ a hair long for the existing cover because of the connections on the back. You /could/ make it work; see my pics w/ the AQD5 in the current pump cover here to help you decide - http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/760#post_24720202 - I believe the couple of us here in this thread with AQ D5's are waiting for the longer cover solution from BoxGods
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had/have the same issue with the water level thing, just not related to MMRS - I spent a good three months trying to hunt down a method to have a water level sensor to the Aquaero for my horizontal res configuration. You didn't say if you were doing horizontal or vertical MMRS, but presuming vertical and with the Aquaero, I'm told you could jerry rig this - http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-liquid-dual-level-sensor-70mm.html or this http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-aqualis-level-measurement-kit-for-aqualis-pro-450-880.html#Details to your aquaero (then you don't need to see inside the res at all.) Unfortunately, I didn't look much further than having them suggested to me because neither work in a horizontal res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so you'll have to do some homework on if they fit and how you'd have to jerry rig them.
> 
> If you're not putting in an Aquaero I think the section of clear tube before the pump is your best bet. Unless BoxGod's is hiding a smoke frosted tube from me the black is completely opaque. Personally, I'm going to be making my own electronic water sensor, but I'm not entirely sure when I'll get around to it so it's not likely to help you if you plan on finishing your build in the next few years lol - Still, it will be in my build log whenever I /do/ get around to it


Thanks for the input. I put the Aquacomputer level sensor in my wish list and will do some research.

Also, I saw where Monsoon stated that they would be creating a new cap for the pump soon, but have been delayed. Fortunately, I am just in the process of procuring components and not in a hurry for that part of the build yet. I hope it will be ready for sale soon though, but this gives me time to think things through.


----------



## BoxGods

I was thinking something more like this:



The legs are spaced for 140mm fans (124.5mm center to center) and the center portion is spaced for the MMRS mounts, (26mm center to center) and there is about an inch (26mm) of adjustment. Putting the adjustment in the center lowers the blockage area and puts it in the fan hub area--not a lot of air flow there anyway.

Not shown are 6mm tall stand off tubes that would act as spacers on the ends of the legs. Maybe include 4 per mount so the builder can opt to use one per leg for 6mm of riser or two per leg for 12mm of riser.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thanks for the input. I put the Aquacomputer level sensor in my wish list and will do some research.
> 
> Also, I saw where Monsoon stated that they would be creating a new cap for the pump soon, but have been delayed. Fortunately, I am just in the process of procuring components and not in a hurry for that part of the build yet. I hope it will be ready for sale soon though, but this gives me time to think things through.


These are fairly simple parts and should not take long.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I was thinking something more like this:
> 
> 
> 
> The legs are spaced for 140mm fans (124.5mm center to center) and the center portion is spaced for the MMRS mounts, (26mm center to center) and there is about an inch (26mm) of adjustment. Putting the adjustment in the center lowers the blockage area and puts it in the fan hub area--not a lot of air flow there anyway.
> 
> Not shown are 6mm tall stand off tubes that would act as spacers on the ends of the legs. Maybe include 4 per mount so the builder can opt to use one per leg for 6mm of riser or two per leg for 12mm of riser.


That would work out great, however one suggestion if I may, would be to make the adjustable area 52mms as the reservoirs are 2 inch based not 1 inch.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> That would work out great, however one suggestion if I may, would be to make the adjustable area 52mms as the reservoirs are 2 inch based not 1 inch.


Yeah...25mm per end = 50mm.


----------



## BoxGods

I think I might also add 12mm of adjustment to the mounting holes on the legs also...just for some wiggle room.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yeah...25mm per end = 50mm.


Ya that is true didn't think of that lol, however that way would not be able to be used with 120mm rads, 240+ should be applicable however.

Adding another 12mm would be perfect, that would make up the difference of a single coupler.









However, how far away from the fan screws does the adjustable area start, if that is 50mm or so on either side, that great limits the size of the reservoir 200-250 is the most common reservoirs sizes I see so if you cannot mount that on a 240 well then all best are off as those are the most common setups.

If that is 50mm off on each size that would bring the max reservoir size down to 100mm that is way so small I would think.


----------



## VSG

Add in some wiggle room in there similar to the spacers in the drain/fill port for the telescoping effect and you have a winner.

Edit: lol nvm


----------



## Methodical

BoxGods, you replied below to my question on the confirming the water levels while using the Black reservoir.

"...Use a Fill Drain Port mounting and just fill it via that untill it is 100% full. Then there is no doubt one way or the other. If you REALLY feel the need to see a water level you could always use an FDP as mentioned, but make it a smaller secondary reservoir with either clear or blood red tube. Use the 50mm long tube and then rout plumbing so it connects into your larger black "show' reservoir. As long as the little satellite reservoir is above the larger black one you know the black one is full if the little one is..."

Just to confirm, I can merely place the FDP on top the reservoir and fill to the top. I ask because I watched your video and it was stated that the FDP was good for using with a reservoir that goes from the top to the bottom of a case with the FDP hidden out of sight.
Question, will it be difficult to close off the fill hole? I looked at the photo of the FDP and there's a cap with a flat head screw. I'm thing I many have a tough time reaching the top to lock it down. Or does it come with a allen wrench screw cap, which would make it a whole lot easier to lock down (reservoir won't go from top to bottom of case, but be located in the mid section of the STH10). Perhaps I am missing something about this.

Thanks...Al


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> BoxGods, you replied below to my question on the confirming the water levels while using the Black reservoir.
> 
> "...Use a Fill Drain Port mounting and just fill it via that untill it is 100% full. Then there is no doubt one way or the other. If you REALLY feel the need to see a water level you could always use an FDP as mentioned, but make it a smaller secondary reservoir with either clear or blood red tube. Use the 50mm long tube and then rout plumbing so it connects into your larger black "show' reservoir. As long as the little satellite reservoir is above the larger black one you know the black one is full if the little one is..."
> 
> Just to confirm, I can merely place the FDP on top the reservoir and fill to the top. I ask because I watched your video and it was stated that the FDP was good for using with a reservoir that goes from the top to the bottom of a case with the FDP hidden out of sight.
> Question, will it be difficult to close off the fill hole? I looked at the photo of the FDP and there's a cap with a flat head screw. I'm thing I many have a tough time reaching the top to lock it down. Or does it come with a allen wrench screw cap, which would make it a whole lot easier to lock down (reservoir won't go from top to bottom of case, but be located in the mid section of the STH10). Perhaps I am missing something about this.
> 
> Thanks...Al


It is not required that you have an FDP on both ends...that is just an option more advanced builders will find a bit exciting, (for some builds). You can stick with the FDP on top only--as most people would use it--and it works just fine. There is a G 1/4 plug on top so you just fill it till the water is at the very top then screw the plug in and done. It is designed so the cap and plug are on the outside of the case in case that is not overly clear.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya that is true didn't think of that lol, however that way would not be able to be used with 120mm rads, 240+ should be applicable however.
> 
> Adding another 12mm would be perfect, that would make up the difference of a single coupler.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, how far away from the fan screws does the adjustable area start, if that is 50mm or so on either side, that great limits the size of the reservoir 200-250 is the most common reservoirs sizes I see so if you cannot mount that on a 240 well then all best are off as those are the most common setups.
> 
> If that is 50mm off on each size that would bring the max reservoir size down to 100mm that is way so small I would think.


I think one size fits all or trying to do it one size fits all rather makes it look kinda like those CPU coolers with universial mounts...sure you can figure it out but that doesn't mean you should as they tend to look like crap. I was thinking of there being two options. One in the Y shape of the grass hopper and one in a T shape.

This is with the 12mm of wiggle room added to the end. I like it as it adds the extra area in a location that is pretty much a dead zone for air flow anyway--the corners.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I would already have had the modified end cap but the shop is empty because of Chinese New year...sorry =(


heh no worries from me, I'm months out from even /thinking/ about the MMRS cause I had to remake my MB lighting tray and I'm waiting for some ribbon cable from China









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I was thinking something more like this:
> 
> 
> 
> The legs are spaced for 140mm fans (124.5mm center to center) and the center portion is spaced for the MMRS mounts, (26mm center to center) and there is about an inch (26mm) of adjustment. Putting the adjustment in the center lowers the blockage area and puts it in the fan hub area--not a lot of air flow there anyway.
> 
> Not shown are 6mm tall stand off tubes that would act as spacers on the ends of the legs. Maybe include 4 per mount so the builder can opt to use one per leg for 6mm of riser or two per leg for 12mm of riser.


I really like this, way better than what I've had to jerry rig up:

 

Don't forget us 120 rad folks though


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I think one size fits all or trying to do it one size fits all rather makes it look kinda like those CPU coolers with universial mounts...sure you can figure it out but that doesn't mean you should as they tend to look like crap. I was thinking of there being two options. One in the Y shape of the grass hopper and one in a T shape.
> 
> This is with the 12mm of wiggle room added to the end. I like it as it adds the extra area in a location that is pretty much a dead zone for air flow anyway--the corners.


Ya a Y shape and a T shape would be perfect.







I thought you were just going to the Y shape is why I said.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> heh no worries from me, I'm months out from even /thinking/ about the MMRS cause I had to remake my MB lighting tray and I'm waiting for some ribbon cable from China
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really like this, way better than what I've had to jerry rig up:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget us 120 rad folks though


I won't--no great shakes to make these for both sizes. I am thinking just matte black powder coating rather than all 10 color finishes as these tend to be parts you want to bot show so much anyway.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya a Y shape and a T shape would be perfect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought you were just going to the Y shape is why I said.


I know it sounds a bit AR but I really dislike those universal type mounts. They are fine for economy type parts of course...but for MMRS I try to keep things a bit higher up the food chain =)

These would be stamped out so fairly inexpensive and easy to manufacture. If we stick to just matte black powder coating as I mentioned before that keeps the number of SKU's manageable also so resellers will not complain too much. Might even offer these in a four pack of sorts--two each of the Y and T mounts and and 8 of the 6mm risers. The mounting screws will be a bit tricky as the radiator guys don't seem to have settled on a standard.


----------



## fast_fate

Looks great, maybe I'll not worry fabbing my own and wait for these


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I know it sounds a bit AR but I really dislike those universal type mounts. They are fine for economy type parts of course...but for MMRS I try to keep things a bit higher up the food chain =)
> 
> These would be stamped out so fairly inexpensive and easy to manufacture. If we stick to just matte black powder coating as I mentioned before that keeps the number of SKU's manageable also so resellers will not complain too much. Might even offer these in a four pack of sorts--two each of the Y and T mounts and and 8 of the 6mm risers. The mounting screws will be a bit tricky as the radiator guys don't seem to have settled on a standard.


yes at first i was thinking of these being raised a little on the bracket itself in sort of an _---_ shape but these would be much easier to make and cheaper too... with risers you could achieve the same thing...this honestly looks like the cheapest and less intrusive way... as all the other options listed look great as a one off solution but a few different sizes of your design and it looks a lot cleaner... id take it either way honestly but im all for cheaper and less intrusive most of the time


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I was thinking something more like this:
> 
> 
> 
> The legs are spaced for 140mm fans (124.5mm center to center) and the center portion is spaced for the MMRS mounts, (26mm center to center) and there is about an inch (26mm) of adjustment. Putting the adjustment in the center lowers the blockage area and puts it in the fan hub area--not a lot of air flow there anyway.
> 
> Not shown are 6mm tall stand off tubes that would act as spacers on the ends of the legs. Maybe include 4 per mount so the builder can opt to use one per leg for 6mm of riser or two per leg for 12mm of riser.


Thats what I'm talking about! No universal ghetto look there.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It is not required that you have an FDP on both ends...that is just an option more advanced builders will find a bit exciting, (for some builds). You can stick with the FDP on top only--as most people would use it--and it works just fine. There is a G 1/4 plug on top so you just fill it till the water is at the very top then screw the plug in and done. It is designed so the cap and plug are on the outside of the case in case that is not overly clear.


Thanks and yes I understand that it's designed so the cap and plug is on the outside of the case for easy filling and that is why I needed clarification for my situation. I may not have been real clear. In my situation, the reservoir will be, say a 250mm reservoir, that doesn't extend to the top of the case, so the cap and plug won't be outside the case, but just sitting on top of the reservoirs that's inside the center case area (see attached sampled photos). Can this work? I'm thinking maybe not since it doesn't have a mounting base for inside the case like the regular port end caps, but need to check with the maker as there may be something I have not found yet.

Thanks


----------



## Mystriss

Is that your current set up?!? Dude... I love the look of Monsoon MMRS, but that right there is stellar on its own heh

Anyway, you actually don't even need the FDP Cap unless you want it for looks, the FDP Base works fine without it so you don't have to mount it at all, it can even just rest in the Base not attached to anything because the o-ring would hold it in place


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Is that your current set up?!? Dude... I love the look of Monsoon MMRS, but that right there is stellar on its own heh
> 
> Anyway, you actually don't even need the FDP Cap unless you want it for looks, the FDP Base works fine without it so you don't have to mount it at all, it can even just rest in the Base not attached to anything because the o-ring would hold it in place


Okay so I was going to ask this actually. Since you posted this I guess I will ask a strange question that I was going to.

If I was to say use the FDP, is the inside slanted as I feel like it is? Could I use a piece of acrylic and mount it on top of the metal insert? Then use a stop plug on a Fill port maybe through the acrylic with an extension. And take the top off and use the inside of the FDP as a funnel? I know it is a strange question lol.

The reason as I know this is strange lol, I will have 2 very large MMRS's on the sides of the rack it sits (like 600mm MMRS's). One will be for the dual Phyoba 1260 rads on a lower shelf. The other will be for a filling station, as the goal is to only fill the Phyobas and the benchs loop, (Another MMRS, 2 EK XE 360s, pump and of course piping) 1 time, and top off infrequently as possible, So to do this the blocks will be on QDCs and they will be filled and bleed before attaching them to the other loop, so frequent filling of one of the large reses will be needed. If I could just pop a top and fill and go without needing a funnel ect that would be amazing.


----------



## Mystriss

Not sure I fully picture what you're asking, but there is a kind of a bowl shape in the top of the FDP Base right around the port (that is to say I believe that the inside catch basin is mostly flat) - you can see what the inside looks like here: 




Edit: ahhhh I get cha with the edit there. I'm pretty sure you can cause that's like one of the primary functions of the FDP's catch basin right? We'll see what BoxGod thinks


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Not sure I fully picture what you're asking, but there is a kind of a bowl shape in the top of the FDP Base right around the port - you can see what the inside looks like here:


Umm I reiterated the why, but I will simplify, I want to use the Plastic part of the FDP as a funnel and dump liquid directly into it, thus using it as a funnel. I want to use the metal part with an Acrlic plate glued over it as a top cap. The top cap will just be pressed in most of the time, and screwed when not needed for awhile or during moving.


----------



## Mystriss

HEY stop posting at the same time I do it's gonna confusing everyone


----------



## jincuteguy

I don't even understand how the Fill cap for the MMRS work? LIke the part where you can pull the cap out a bit ? Can't you just use a fittings + tube and attach to one of the 3 ports at the top of the Reservoir to fill?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> I don't even understand how the Fill cap for the MMRS work? LIke the part where you can pull the cap out a bit ? Can't you just use a fittings + tube and attach to one of the 3 ports at the top of the Reservoir to fill?


yes you can put a fitting on the FDP it is a standard G1/4. But the additional purposes is the cap serves as a catch basin in case you spill a little it won't leak on anything, and also the top metal piece allows you to drill a hole in the top or bottom of the case and attach the entire res to the case for easy draining, filling, and stability of installation.

Edit: Here boxgods 



 explaining it.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Is that your current set up?!? Dude... I love the look of Monsoon MMRS, but that right there is stellar on its own heh
> 
> Anyway, you actually don't even need the FDP Cap unless you want it for looks, the FDP Base works fine without it so you don't have to mount it at all, it can even just rest in the Base not attached to anything because the o-ring would hold it in place


Nah that's not my build, but it is sweet the way everything goes horizontally.


----------



## Jidonsu

Got my reservoir mounted up today. Can't wait to finish the build this week.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Got my reservoir mounted up today. Can't wait to finish the build this week.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome! I want to do almost the exact same thing, only not white.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It' is "_just_" purple and mounted as Ceadder said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now...would be nice if an MMRS adjustable rad mount came to fruition so different length tubes could be attached with both (or more) MMRS mounts.
> I think a 240 and a 280 version in black should cover just about everyone's requirements.
> 2 slotted rails that run the length of the rad with 2 cross bars (or more) to attach the MMRS mounts onto.
> Sign me up for a pre-order of two of each size please


^^^^^
This!

EDIT: After I posted I saw Gene's proposal and all the discussion around it. It's going to be awesome!


----------



## DaClownie

Damn... apparently my measurements were just the tiniest bit off... 100mm monsoon res with side ports will NOT fit along side my 240mm radiator in this back side of the air 240... Here's praying I can swing these angles using the 50mm tube and the 3 port top cap instead of single top dual side port end cap. MMRS system is beautiful looking, but the 90s and the radiators are certainly quite bulky.

Looks like it's back to Performance-PCs.... if their website wasn't the WORST SITE EVER. It takes 60-120 seconds to load (if it doesn't time out) using a VPN in their home state.


----------



## gdubc

Yep, I was browsing for some stuff yesterday and gave up. How have they still not fixed it?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> Yep, I was browsing for some stuff yesterday and gave up. How have they still not fixed it?


It's always bad but this is by far the worst and it's the only place to get the res parts


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> It's always bad but this is by far the worst and it's the only place to get the res parts


Yea PerformancePCs website is even worst now, it was worst before, but today is even a lot "slower", anyone else experiencing this? For god sake, I hope their owner step it up and upgrade their server.

Do they even know that their website server is really bad?


----------



## Don Key Sho

PPCs is down?

Cool! thought it was me....
Hope they fix soon got a second build almost ready.......and money burnning a hole in my wallet!


----------



## Fyrwulf

I was having issues this morning with PPCs, but it seems to be back up.


----------



## BoxGods

I spent some time today with the production samples for the mating kit and the vertical mount. Pretty happy with both.

The 3mm thick stainless sheet is more than strong enough for the vertical mount.


----------



## VSG

Nice! Do you know when we would see the retail models available?


----------



## Ceadderman

Works just fine for me. Maybe there was an issue this morning(I never got tried so idk), but @1648 pst it loaded right up and in short order.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Works just fine for me. Maybe there was an issue this morning(I never got tried so idk), but @1648 pst it loaded right up and in short order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It's loading now, but ordering fails every time. Also, they have an SQL issue on their mobile version too. It's just a TERRIBLE site. Let's be honest with each other here. lol

I love PPCS, they have a selection that can be rivaled by none (unfortunately). Their shipping, while expensive, is never questionable, if anything they over pack their items. But... for a tech site, their site is the worst.

Why can't there be one of those shows like Restaurant takeover, but for websites. Some nerdy bro just walks in, fixes it and makes it functional, and leaves.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Works just fine for me. Maybe there was an issue this morning(I never got tried so idk), but @1648 pst it loaded right up and in short order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's loading now, but ordering fails every time. Also, they have an SQL issue on their mobile version too. It's just a TERRIBLE site. Let's be honest with each other here. lol
> 
> I love PPCS, they have a selection that can be rivaled by none (unfortunately). Their shipping, while expensive, is never questionable, if anything they over pack their items. But... for a tech site, their site is the worst.
> 
> Why can't there be one of those shows like Restaurant takeover, but for websites. Some nerdy bro just walks in, fixes it and makes it functional, and leaves.
Click to expand...

Try clearing your browser cache.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Works just fine for me. Maybe there was an issue this morning(I never got tried so idk), but @1648 pst it loaded right up and in short order.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's loading now, but ordering fails every time. Also, they have an SQL issue on their mobile version too. It's just a TERRIBLE site. Let's be honest with each other here. lol
> 
> I love PPCS, they have a selection that can be rivaled by none (unfortunately). Their shipping, while expensive, is never questionable, if anything they over pack their items. But... for a tech site, their site is the worst.
> 
> Why can't there be one of those shows like Restaurant takeover, but for websites. Some nerdy bro just walks in, fixes it and makes it functional, and leaves.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Try clearing your browser cache.
Click to expand...

I did. I just thought of another solution for my issue fitting my reservoir as well... I may just cut a hole just big enough in the back that the radiator can extend out of the back of the case by about 5-10mm. It wouldn't stick out beyond the thumb screws which are already back there, but it allows me the room to do what I want.

More investigation is in order.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nice! Do you know when we would see the retail models available?


Not the best answer but as quick as we possibly can...early to mid March.


----------



## VSG

I'll take an honest approximation over an over promised, under delivered number. I suppose this way I can bug you about these in the collection that you were prepping.


----------



## BoxGods

They are in the collection (if you mean the SU parts).


----------



## BoxGods

OK here is what I am thinking for the 140mm radiator mounts, (the 120mm would look and work the same).

In the package would be:

2 x Y mounting brackets.

2 x T mounting brackets.

4 x 6mm risers with screws.

4 x 12mm risers with screws

Here is what they look like. The red one is the Y bracket and the gray one is the T mount. The Y is shown with 12mm risers and the gray has the 6mm risers. The slots out on the wings have 12mm of adjustment range and the center slots have 24mm. Bracket material is 3mm steel powder coated black. Risers will most likely be black delrin.

I am including 2 each of the Y and T so builders have the parts needed to "tinker" around with the brackets while installing to fine tune which ones work best for their particular build. The same with the inclusion of 6mm and 12mm risers. Runs the cost up a bit but I think it makes everything a lot easier. The other option is selling them in 2 packs and you pick either Y or T. The price difference would be about $5. Just spit balling it but figure $10 for a 2 pack and $15 for the 2 each 4 pack.



Thoughts?


----------



## ruffhi

Excellent. Very nicely thought out and giving your fans tons of options. As usual.


----------



## Radnad

I like it, especially the Y. How soon to etailer shelves, March I think you told geggeg?


----------



## Deedaz

Painted the end of the adapter fitting with UV green acrylic. Was originally going to use the paint on the mobo but it didn't work out.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I like it, especially the Y. How soon to etailer shelves, March I think you told geggeg?


Yeah these should go pretty fast. Trying to sort out what screws to include. Not sure what threads most radiator makers are using and also if I should include an extra 25mm for fan thickness or not.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Painted the end of the adapter fitting with UV green acrylic. Was originally going to use the paint on the mobo but it didn't work out.


That is pretty cool...did you paint one of our accent disks or just the cavity on the end of rotary?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I like it, especially the Y. How soon to etailer shelves, March I think you told geggeg?
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah these should go pretty fast. Trying to sort out what screws to include. Not sure what threads most radiator makers are using and also if I should include an extra 25mm for fan thickness or not.
Click to expand...

I think 6/32 and M4 are the most common. The more hardware the better imo. I would personally pay a few more bucks for the kit that way because finding the right hardware locally sometimes can be a pain, even in a big city.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I think 6/32 and M4 are the *most common*. The more hardware the better imo. I would personally pay a few more bucks for the kit that way because finding the right hardware locally sometimes can be a pain, even in a big city.


Most common in terms of brands maybe, BUT Alphacool probably have market share and they use a 3mm thread (as do Aqua Computer and Phobya)
Agreed that a kit with all would be best, but then if direct attachment + fan attachment screws were included, that's 6 sets of screws of which only 1 will be used.
I would be inclined to not include the longer screws, but would included a set of 5mm long screws for each thread size.

*EDIT:* forget the 5mm, forgot about the spacers


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That is pretty cool...did you paint one of our accent disks or just the cavity on the end of rotary?


Just the cavity, filled it in and used a straight edge to smooth it out. The next 2 that are drying look a bit better, and I cleaned up the residual around the edges.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Most common in terms of brands maybe, BUT Alphacool probably have market share and they use a 3mm thread (as do Aqua Computer and Phobya)
> Agreed that a kit with all would be best, but then if direct attachment + fan attachment screws were included, that's 6 sets of screws of which only 1 will be used.
> I would be inclined to not include the longer screws, but would included a set of 5mm long screws for each thread size.
> 
> *EDIT:* forget the 5mm, forgot about the spacers


Yeah costs pile up pretty fast with the little stuff. it is tough because pretty much any way I go some group will be irritated.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Most common in terms of brands maybe, BUT Alphacool probably have market share and they use a 3mm thread (as do Aqua Computer and Phobya)
> Agreed that a kit with all would be best, but then if direct attachment + fan attachment screws were included, that's 6 sets of screws of which only 1 will be used.
> I would be inclined to not include the longer screws, but would included a set of 5mm long screws for each thread size.
> 
> *EDIT:* forget the 5mm, forgot about the spacers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah costs pile up pretty fast with the little stuff. it is tough because pretty much any way I go some group will be irritated.
Click to expand...

Talk to PPCS and when they list it up there, have the user be able to select screw types? These mounts aren't threaded obviously, so if you include washers or o-rings or something to provide vibration dampening, the user can select the screw size needed when adding it to their cart from the product page. Seems like the only way to go without playing favorite to one of the brands.


----------



## BoxGods

Performance might be willing to do that but no other reseller would. Good idea though.


----------



## Mystriss

If you are going to skip including the longer screws for fan pass through on a push/pull then frankly I think a good deal of folks will have to order their own screws in the proper length anyway, so I think that asking resellers to add a screw thread size option without also adding a screw length option would be irrelevant, and adding four screw type options may be more of a hassle than it's worth to even PPCS heh

How much would you suspect including both the long and short in M4 and 3mm thread screws would cost the consumer? Myself personally I would be willing to pay at least a couple bucks more to have /all/ the screw size/length options simply because it would allow me to alter things down the road if I needed to change things up.

On the other hand, I've actually already gotten the longer screws I needed for a push/pull "situation" with the rad mount I have, and I have to say I didn't think anything of it when the rad mount didn't include them.

...Now if you happened to sell packages of Monsoon matched screws in various common sizes/lengths I'd be all over that for more than just the mount. I'm already considering buying some more MMRS tension rods simply to reclaim the screws for use as faux window bolts. Of course, that's a whole 'nother product line I'm not entirely sure you /should/ deal with the CS on


----------



## Mystriss

Oh hey, my brain just woke up and I had an idea for it:

A "hollow" stand off in various lengths that screws in on both sides; similar to PCB stand offs like these:

 

The screw to the rad has a head just smaller than the "inside" of the stand-off and goes through the "plus" part in the first picture and into the rad (and don't do a plus configuration like this spacer, just a hole big enough for the rad bolt to fit through), then on the other side of the spacer you have a fat threaded bolt that goes through the hole in the mounting plate and into the stand-off. So picture two would be threaded.

This would, if delrin is indeed cheaper, give the mounts complete flexibility. Simply include w/e length spacers with the kit and the bolt sizes are the same for all models.


----------



## VSG

Would a clamping mechanism work here and be secure enough to support a filled res? It would benefit from being more universal and not needing screws but (a) has to work around rads of different thickness which is doable but adds a variable and (b) can be insecure, especially in a vertical position.


----------



## Mystriss

hmmm I guess I was under the impression that the MMRS coupler mounts screwed into the couplers like normal, then those mounts screwed to the res mounting plate... ~Goes back to read description again~

A clamping system would have to be on the couplers because the tension rods are in the way of it being on the acrylic tube sections.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Oh hey, my brain just woke up and I had an idea for it:
> 
> A "hollow" stand off in various lengths that screws in on both sides; similar to PCB stand offs like these:
> 
> 
> 
> The screw to the rad has a head just smaller than the "inside" of the stand-off and goes through the "plus" part in the first picture and into the rad (and don't do a plus configuration like this spacer, just a hole big enough for the rad bolt to fit through), then on the other side of the spacer you have a fat threaded bolt that goes through the hole in the mounting plate and into the stand-off. So picture two would be threaded.
> 
> This would, if delrin is indeed cheaper, give the mounts complete flexibility. Simply include w/e length spacers with the kit and the bolt sizes are the same for all models.


This would work (and be a great idea) if it were not for there being several thread sizes for radiators. I had also seen the stand offs or risers as stackable items the builder can combine for different lengths as needed.


----------



## Mystriss

mmm yes I guess I'm just presuming that folks already have the rad screws... Don't screws come with most rad's? (I cannot honestly recall now that I think about it heh)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> mmm yes I guess I'm just presuming that folks already have the rad screws... Don't screws come with most rad's? (I cannot honestly recall now that I think about it heh)


Depends on the manufacturer I guess. I know EK and HWLabs Radiators come with screws. Unless you get them used ofc.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Usually they come with a short set and a long set for push OR pull config. If you want to go push/pull you need to buy more longer ones, and if you add gaskets you may actually need even longer screws.


----------



## Mystriss

I glanced through my mod boxes just now, but it looks like I've opened my Black Ice rad so I couldn't check if it had screws with it :/

Though I suppose there is a bit of a point with the buying it used issue. On the other hand, we're talking about a bit higher end product with Monsoon. I don't know about ya'll but I wouldn't be comfortable with used parts, especially not a rad; who knows what kind of stuff they put in their loop? I don't want any unknown random dye remnants or chemicals in my water, I've got way too much cash relying on my loops to risk it...


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Usually they come with a short set and a long set for push OR pull config. If you want to go push/pull you need to buy more longer ones, and if you add gaskets you may actually need even longer screws.


Re gaskets ... worth it or not? And if you decide to use them ... how many per radiator ... one gasket per side with fans? Less? More?

Say I have push / pull fans and a rad mount ... is this too many? just right?

_Fans / Gasket / Rad / Gasket / Rad Mount / Gasket / Fans_

I'm putting my rads together shortly and this info will be useful.


----------



## Deedaz

Honestly I really don't know if they are worth it or not, but I bought cheap fans that aren't really mean t for rads so I figured they could use all the help they can get. I got 2 gaskets per rad, to sit between the fan/rad. Hopefully they help reduce noise and possibly improve the airflow through the rads.


----------



## Mystriss

Well generally speaking fan gaskets were mostly designed for vibration dampening, however these days, and with certain fan "shapes" (the Corsair's for example) the foam, if thick enough, helps seal gaps between the radiator and fan housing that would otherwise escape; this ultimately puts the full air pressure of the fan through your rad fins, thus helps cooling - albeit slightly from what I've seen.

They are so cheap that I personally figure in the long run why wouldn't you add one, even in the worst performance case scenario, you still get the decoupling effect.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx guys. At less that $3 per ... I'll pick up some more from PPCs with my next order.


----------



## ruffhi

*A More Secure Monsoon Hardline Cutting Guide*

I've been looking at the Monsoon cutting kit videos ... and while they are very informative ... I have always been bugged by the cutting action with the miter box. See 4:00 in 



 to see how Gene uses it. He does say to use the saw do the work but then (to some extent), defeats it by the cutting action.

To that end, I bodged the following together ...










More details at my Liquorice Allsorts build log.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> *A Better(?) Monsoon Hardline Cutting Guide*
> 
> I've been looking at the Monsoon cutting kit videos ... and while they are very informative ... I have always been bugged by the cutting action with the miter box. See 4:00 in
> 
> 
> 
> to see how Gene uses it. He does say to use the saw do the work but then (to some extent), defeats it by the cutting action.
> 
> To that end, I bodged the following together ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details at my Liquorice Allsorts build log.


Countersinking two holes down the center of the cutting channel would have been better than 4 brackets holding it down. Less chance of knuckle busting too.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Countersinking two holes down the center of the cutting channel would have been better than 4 brackets holding it down. Less chance of knuckle busting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


True but this way doesn't damage the miter.


----------



## BoxGods

I love how everyone keeps suggesting counter bored screws inside the miter. Over and over. There is no way to clean the edges in a half round slot. Customers who can't use the saw without the miter box moving would scratch the crap out of the tube EVERY time and I would get 10 emails a day complaining about it. We tried the counter bore and simply could not find a way to reliably clean the edges of the burrs / sharpness. Not saying there isn't one...just not one we are aware of.

The brackets are not a bad idea--especially as the measuring kit comes with them...

I will include some form of mounting on the next version.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> *A Better(?) Monsoon Hardline Cutting Guide*
> 
> I've been looking at the Monsoon cutting kit videos ... and while they are very informative ... I have always been bugged by the cutting action with the miter box. See 4:00 in
> 
> 
> 
> to see how Gene uses it. He does say to use the saw do the work but then (to some extent), defeats it by the cutting action.
> 
> To that end, I bodged the following together ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More details at my Liquorice Allsorts build log.


OUCH i see many band aids in some ones future

I am ordering the kit this week for 1/2x5/8. I was just going to drill some holes in the bottom tap them and bolt it down on my work bench.

Not trying to be a killjoy but if you can hard line cool your computer you can drill and tap a few holes


----------



## Cyber Locc

[quote name=
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I love how everyone keeps suggesting counter bored screws inside the miter. Over and over. There is no way to clean the edges in a half round slot. Customers who can't use the saw without the miter box moving would scratch the crap out of the tube EVERY time and I would get 10 emails a day complaining about it. We tried the counter bore and simply could not find a way to reliably clean the edges of the burrs / sharpness. Not saying there isn't one...just not one we are aware of.
> 
> The brackets are not a bad idea--especially as the measuring kit comes with them...
> 
> I will include some form of mounting on the next version.


Round file? I mean its hand work and would take awhile but for people doing it themselves that is an easy way to achieve that.

Then just tape the tube no scratching







.

Of course I agree with not doing that stock, but for people that want to do it to theirs those are some good ideas.


----------



## fast_fate

Tapered grinding bits


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Less chance of knuckle busting too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> OUCH i see many band aids in some ones future


Oh ... I see now. I wasn't sure what Ceadder meant by busted knuckles ... ok, maybe there are some sharp corners involved.

This contraption gets anchored in my vice, one hand holds the tube, the other lets the saw do the work. I am very sure that no knuckles will be injured in the cutting of tubes.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Tapered grinding bits


What are you using these for?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I love how everyone keeps suggesting counter bored screws inside the miter. Over and over. There is no way to clean the edges in a half round slot. Customers who can't use the saw without the miter box moving would scratch the crap out of the tube EVERY time and I would get 10 emails a day complaining about it. We tried the counter bore and simply could not find a way to reliably clean the edges of the burrs / sharpness. Not saying there isn't one...just not one we are aware of.
> 
> The brackets are not a bad idea--especially as the measuring kit comes with them...
> 
> I will include some form of mounting on the next version.


Rat tail file should work to clean the burrs shouldn't it?

Apologies for always suggesting it Geno.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

The bottom of the miter is a half round channel. Not sure how you would get a file in there? If you can't get a CNC bit in there a file would be a lot tougher. We tried sand blasting and it takes so much time under the nozzle that the sides of the box get pretty ground up.

I know I sound like a grouch but I try to answer every single email I get and I just knew if I sent the miter box out there like that I would get 10 or 15 emails a week complaining about it. Imagine answering all those week after week for a few years...


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is there a similar image for the Economic Hardline fittings?


----------



## BoxGods

Oddly enough...I have no idea who made that image up.

They are pretty straight forward. One O ring on the bottom at the G 1/4 threads (like any other fitting) and one around the tube where it meets the barb/base.


----------



## BoxGods

Update on the Sketchup models.

Almost there for the assembly handles. A few days work to go (depending on my schedule).

I am about ready for some beta testing for anyone interested in downloading some preliminary files.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Yes, of course.
How can i download the files?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Update on the Sketchup models.
> 
> Almost there for the assembly handles. A few days work to go (depending on my schedule).
> 
> I am about ready for some beta testing for anyone interested in downloading some preliminary files.


I'd be happy to do some testing.


----------



## BoxGods

Can't seem to log into our FTP account for some reason--trying to get it sorted now. In the meantime, here is pretty much all the instructions I hope you should need. Those are the handles for most of the parts--molded end caps, Tension rods, Tubes, Mounts, etc. A few parts use vertical handles also--CCFL Plugs and the MMRS Dual Bulb CCFL's but they work very similarly.



Let me know if you have any questions. I will PM you guys a download link once FTP is back up.


----------



## BoxGods

OK FTP fixed and a .rar file link sent via PM. Don't expect anything OMG but hopefully good enough to tinker with.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> OK FTP fixed and a .rar file link sent via PM. Don't expect anything OMG but hopefully good enough to tinker with.


Testing went well and was fun. Pm'd you some info BoxGods.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

you can drop me the pm link as well if you want i have the sketchup downloaded and setup i havent had time to learn it very well but i think i can manage


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Testing went well and was fun. Pm'd you some info BoxGods.


Thanks for taking the time to test and for your very detailed comments--very much appreciated =)


----------



## DaClownie

Hey boxgods... what's the timeline on those fan spacing/radiator style mounts? Turns out my build may need them in order for me to mount my reservoir externally


----------



## BoxGods

Making up the first test samples now...will know more once we see how those go.


----------



## NeeqOne

Can I also get the link for the SketchUp files? Thanks.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Can I also get the link for the SketchUp files? Thanks.


These are actually test files for about 10 of the parts. I won't have all of the parts done for a few more days.


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Making up the first test samples now...will know more once we see how those go.


Dang, OK.

Sounds like you need a guinea pig... for... testing. yea... testing...


----------



## Jiryama

Sorry been out awhile - so many pages to catch up on, was quite a bit!

I think that the radiator mount looks pretty good but how can you make sure that it will work with mounting both sides on any sized radiator when the holes are only every 120 or 140mm?

I would love to take a look at those Sketchup files as well! Seems like you've already have a few people test them out for you so I can wait until they are publicly released if need be.









Interested to see how that new Hard Tubing kit comes out - will be one of the first to purchase it depending on it's release!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jiryama*
> 
> Sorry been out awhile - so many pages to catch up on, was quite a bit!
> 
> I think that the radiator mount looks pretty good but how can you make sure that it will work with mounting both sides on any sized radiator when the holes are only every 120 or 140mm?
> 
> I would love to take a look at those Sketchup files as well! Seems like you've already have a few people test them out for you so I can wait until they are publicly released if need be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interested to see how that new Hard Tubing kit comes out - will be one of the first to purchase it depending on it's release!


On the rad mounts...you really can't be 100% sure it will fit every configuration on every radiator in every build...but figuring it out is sort of the fun part =)


----------



## Deedaz

Man I love this res!







I can't see myself using anything else in the future.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Oddly enough...I have no idea who made that image up.
> 
> They are pretty straight forward. One O ring on the bottom at the G 1/4 threads (like any other fitting) and one around the tube where it meets the barb/base.


Gene - is this picture right? Moving from left to right.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Man I love this res!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't see myself using anything else in the future.


Looking killer!

Have you drilled the hole on the bottom of your case yet for the FDP cap? If so I am interested to know how it went for you.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Gene - is this picture right? Moving from left to right.


Not 100%. The white O ring in the first column is the optional O ring for the base of the fitting on the G 1/4 threads--for those using acrylic cases/reservoirs where it would show.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Gene - is this picture right? Moving from left to right.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not 100%. The white O ring in the first column is the optional O ring for the base of the fitting on the G 1/4 threads--for those using acrylic cases/reservoirs where it would show.
Click to expand...

Thanks Gene. Adjustment noted. I'll just be using the two black o-rings.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looking killer!
> 
> Have you drilled the hole on the bottom of your case yet for the FDP cap? If so I am interested to know how it went for you.


I bought a cheap hole saw from china that wasn't balanced well and ended up with more of an oval shaped hole lol. You can kind of tell that the ports are not parallel with the mobo tray, because of the oval shape I had to adjust where I drilled the outer screw holes. It actually ended up working pretty well and gave the tubing a nice curving effect.
I was too busy trying to line the screw holes up and forgot to take a pic.


----------



## BoxGods

The FDP cap covers a lot of sins =)


----------



## ciarlatano

So, though I had absolutely no possible functional reason to buy an MMRS......I did, anyway, simply because they are so good looking. The product in hand did _not_ disappoint. Really nicely made and absolutely fantastic looking! Assembly couldn't have been easier. Really looking forward to putting this in over the weekend.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> So, though I had absolutely no possible functional reason to buy an MMRS......I did, anyway, simply because they are so good looking. The product in hand did _not_ disappoint. Really nicely made and absolutely fantastic looking! Assembly couldn't have been easier. Really looking forward to putting this in over the weekend.


Just ordered my second one today to.Now that i have watercooling 101 done time to make it look good. Will be doing a build log this time

Ordered some monsoon econ fittings but not going to use them going with all white free center hardline this time.


----------



## Cyber Locc

So did the coupler to coupler attachment ever make it out?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> So did the coupler to coupler attachment ever make it out?


Production run is done and finishing up packaging now. So "soon" =)


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Production run is done and finishing up packaging now. So "soon" =)


Cool







, I may need some. I have a very very strange idea for using a MMRS in my new MATX build, and I am racking my brain to figure out a way to fit the largest tube possible in a very small space. I think I have an idea but its going to be tough







. I have about a 255mm tall space, with lots of room front to back, but little side to side.

So I think I am going to mount the pump behind the reservoir, not sure its going to be tough.


----------



## BoxGods

Sketchup Models.

I have gotten the XX versions of all the parts done and handles added for easier assembly. That means I have not added the color versions for each individual part number (thus the XX on the end of the part number file names) but everything is there except for the new radiator mounts...at least I think everything is.

Anyway I guess it is time for a slightly wider public beta test...gulp.

You can get the current files here.

Good luck to us all =)

***EDIT***

I haven't added the Warp Core frosted tubes yet...that won't stop you guys from testing configurations however as the tubes are still the same dimensions...only the finish is different.


----------



## BoxGods

Also--reposting the "instruction" image.


----------



## Don Key Sho

exscuse me BoxGods im redoing my mmrs for another case..going all out this time....my question is how Wide are the 50mm mounts? i have them, but they are installed in a case. (the very computer im using to type this.)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Don Key Sho*
> 
> exscuse me BoxGods im redoing my mmrs for another case..going all out this time....my question is how Wide are the 50mm mounts? i have them, but they are installed in a case. (the very computer im using to type this.)


If memory serves I think they are about 38mm wide. Hole spacing is 26mm


----------



## Mack42

Hi, been looking at these gorgeous reservoirs, however, I don't see an inner "tube" in them to handle air bubbles. No such solution for monsoon?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mack42*
> 
> Hi, been looking at these gorgeous reservoirs, however, I don't see an inner "tube" in them to handle air bubbles. No such solution for monsoon?


90% of reservoirs dont have that tube, you can buy them and they screw in to any reservoir including the monsoon, however they are pretty worthless IMO, I have never used them and never gotten bubble issues.

Anyway if you really want one then here, http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-female-g1-4-shining-silver-aqua-pipe-ii-fitting.html

However that will only work on the top ports AFAIK, the side ports it wont. All that thing does is lower the water return from a top port to below the waterline so that it doesnt have a waterfall effect. This is easily achieved by just filling up the reservoir all the way, this thing does nothing else and unless you are using top inlet not needed.

Also the monsoon does this with the use of couplers, if you put your coupler and return in the center of the reservoir that does the same thing.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> 90% of reservoirs dont have that tube, you can buy them and they screw in to any reservoir including the monsoon, however they are pretty worthless IMO, I have never used them and never gotten bubble issues.
> 
> Anyway if you really want one then here, http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-premium-female-g1-4-shining-silver-aqua-pipe-ii-fitting.html
> 
> However that will only work on the top ports AFAIK, the side ports it wont. All that thing does is lower the water return from a top port to below the waterline so that it doesnt have a waterfall effect. This is easily achieved by just filling up the reservoir all the way, this thing does nothing else and unless you are using top inlet not needed.
> 
> Also the monsoon does this with the use of couplers, if you put your coupler and return in the center of the reservoir that does the same thing.


unless you are using a res with bottom ports and no side ports...then it prevents the air from being pulled from one port through the adjoining port...I think that's what he was getting at...I have an alphacool that without the acrylic tube using both bottom ports pulls the air through pretty easily at least the smaller bubbles anyway


----------



## BoxGods

When the air is bled from the loop properly there are not many (if any) bubbles to be drawn into an outlet. As Cyber Locc mentioned topping off is the way to do that. I do occasionally see guys who like to run the reservoir at half full for w/e reason and it is certainly their choice (their build after all) but for me personally it seems like running your car with the brake fluid reservoir half full and air in your brake lines. Just not optimal =)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> When the air is bled from the loop properly there are not many (if any) bubbles to be drawn into an outlet. As Cyber Locc mentioned topping off is the way to do that. I do occasionally see guys who like to run the reservoir at half full for w/e reason and it is certainly their choice (their build after all) but for me personally it seems like running your car with the brake fluid reservoir half full and air in your brake lines. Just not optimal =)


I meant for the initial bleeding I guess that wasn't clear







I personally keep mine full 100 percent...I've read some say there should be a small amount of air but I'd rather ensure no air bubbles to make noise or get in the impeller etc...although having a small air bubbles dies allow you to see that the coolant is flowing through turbulence...but I'll stick with slammed full


----------



## BoxGods

I also kind of like a few little air bubbles swirling around in the reservoir. it makes it easier to tell at a glance that the water is moving (and the pump is working) and it looks cooler. Without those little bubbles it is not really visually obvious that there is water in our loops.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Also, one other item. I have never seen the compression ring tear up a lock collar like that. Because all of the abrasion is on one side it suggests that the tube was pretty far out of alignment and you hat to force it over into place pretty severely when you installed it. That causes the tube to hit the fitting base at a pretty steep angle. Not optimal for obvious reasons
> 
> Before you cut the tube I would suggest trying two seals (double them up) as you might just be very unevenly "mapped" onto the base because of that angle and that could be causing the leak.
> 
> 
> 
> Geno, I'm well aware of the effects of alcohol on acrylic, so no alcohol, or Windex, or anything similar, near my loop. Your advice about a double gasket sounds appealing, but even if it worked, I'd be forever nervous about that joint, so I'm still going to redo the whole thing. You won't believe me until you see it with your own eyes, but the abrasion is not localized, it's more circular in nature. As soon as I'm done posting this, I'll get to work on the new tube. PM me a mailing address and I will send you the pieces so you can do a proper necropsy. If I have caused this situastion through some stupid mistake, I'm very interested in learning about it so I don't keep repeating it. If (as I would obviously prefer to think) the problem is with the product and not with the consumer, I'm sure YOU would be interested in finding out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Would you mind not being so reasonable? Sheesh, this is the internet, flip the hell out man!
Click to expand...

Now I did flip out. I was away from town for almost a week, and returned last night to a dead HTPC. As soon as I opened it, it was very clear that it had sprung a leak. To clean it, I had to drain what fluid remained in the loop, and actually remove the tubing so I could unseat all the expansion cards from the mobo to clean it, and the case, up. Another lock collar had failed. This time the collar was intact, but the tension from the compression fitting had simply pulled it away from the PETG tube. The casualties of this failure include the motherboard (fried) and my sleeved cables which soaked up a lot of green pastel coolant. i won't know if my RAM and GPU died too until I have a new mobo to try them out,

After the original fiascos with the bad collars and the bad glue, I redid every single tube in my loop, and after I put it back together, I let the loop run for a solid week hooked to an external PSU for overkill leak testing, before I finally energized the system. This leak sprung well after the system was in use. I don't know if the heat affects the glue, or if it just degrades over time. I don't care either. One thing is clear, however, the idea that it welds the tubing and collar together to form "one monolithic structure" is simply not true.

I had already stated I would never use the free center hardline fittings again. Well, now THEY DESTROYED MY SYSTEM!!! Nobody should ever use them, THEY ARE CRAP! Mission critical? Seriously?? Those accursed things have so many ways to fail that they reduce, not enhance, the reliability of whatever system you put them into. Watercooling is risky enough without gambling on failure-prone fittings!


----------



## BoxGods

Not sure what to say to that...thousands of people are using them without issue. I am willing to work with you to figure out what went wrong but it seems pretty clear your not interested in that...your angry and I get it.


----------



## BoxGods

I finally got all of the MMRS Sketchup models done in all of the colors. Not sure I would ever have the patience to upload several hundred parts to their 3D warehouse one at a time...if anyone wants them I can send a link to a zip file.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Hi Gene.
i need this parts







Give me the link ... Please and Thanks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> Hi Gene.
> i need this parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Give me the link ... Please and Thanks


Here ya go. If you need to change colors on any of the parts I have found it is easier to click on the "In this model" button in the color picking area, then double click on the current color that you want to change, then adjust to the new color. That way it changes all the parts with the old color at once. That way you can do all six tension rods at once for example.

http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar


----------



## coookiemunster

Hi Gene, Noob question - I picked up a set of Monsoon free center hardline fittings last July from PPCs. How can i tell the difference between acrylic lock collars and polycarbonate? is there a visual cue?


----------



## DaClownie

There's a PC logo in the inside flap of the box for the fittings for polycarbonate


----------



## xerythul

Also I'm pretty sure Gene has an accurate memory of when the collar types changed so if you bought after a certain date he can usually say with high certainty what type you're likely to have.


----------



## BoxGods

That is correct. ANY product that includes lock collars will include a stamp inside the flap that says either "POLY" or "PC". If you check and find you have some fittings left over from before the switch email me your shipping info and I can send out some replacements for you.


----------



## BoxGods

The second set of white samples is done and it looks much more bright. The one on the left is the original sample.







What do you guys think?


----------



## gdubc

Take my monies, I need these. They look much brighter now.


----------



## Radnad

What do I think? Holy wow!! You've opened the can now, you can't take back white from us!


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Here ya go. If you need to change colors on any of the parts I have found it is easier to click on the "In this model" button in the color picking area, then double click on the current color that you want to change, then adjust to the new color. That way it changes all the parts with the old color at once. That way you can do all six tension rods at once for example.
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar


Many Thanks ... Now have the Parts in the perfect color for my 3D Model







...


----------



## coookiemunster

They look amazing!! i painted mine white but may pick up a set of white when these get out to PPCs.


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> There's a PC logo in the inside flap of the box for the fittings for polycarbonate


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That is correct. ANY product that includes lock collars will include a stamp inside the flap that says either "POLY" or "PC". If you check and find you have some fittings left over from before the switch email me your shipping info and I can send out some replacements for you.


Thanks guys!!


----------



## BoxGods

Not as easy to come up with a "common" white item to put into the picture as you might think--especially at 2:00 AM. Anyway here are the new white molded samples with one of our white fittings for reference.







I think they are pretty close--especially once they are in a case.


----------



## seross69

subbed as I have missed so much on the new items


----------



## fast_fate

The white caps look awesome









Who's the authorized retailer in Australia going to be for MMRS.
Haven't seen any pop up down here yet.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> The white caps look awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who's the authorized retailer in Australia going to be for MMRS.
> Haven't seen any pop up down here yet.


I have really struggled to find a *reliable* reseller in Australia. We have tried a few times and it just hasn't worked out. A shame as I know US resellers ship a lot of orders to AU.


----------



## fast_fate

PC Case Gear stock some Monsoon products but very limited inventory as I'm sure you know.
Most of the independents have shut shop in the last few years. Seems our market is not large enough to support the full range.
Having said that PLE have significantly increased their water cooling selection in the last 6 - 12 months.
They may not be willing to stock the full range of individual parts like all the tension rod lengths in every color or all the tube colors,
BUT - they might take on a selection of the most "common" items which would be better than nothing for us








I think they would be more inclined to stock pre-assembled "kits" rather than individual parts.
May be worth contacting both of these outlets and assess their interest level.
Leverage one against by offering exclusive re-seller rights in Australia - not ideal only having one outlet, but better than none.


----------



## BoxGods

I think there is an Australian version of Amazon right? What would be perfect is a seller there using FBA (fulfilled by Amazon). Sooner or later somebody in Australia will notice and cash in.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not as easy to come up with a "common" white item to put into the picture as you might think--especially at 2:00 AM. Anyway here are the new white molded samples with one of our white fittings for reference.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think they are pretty close--especially once they are in a case.


When I fist tested the sketchup models I sent boxgods this screenshot. I didn't post it in the thread because I knew we would all go gaga over the white and didn't know if it was actually going to happen. But it looks like white is a "GO"!


----------



## BoxGods

Crap...I had not thought of making the molded CCFL ends white too...that is like 35 more SKU's and resellers will go crazy.


----------



## Mystriss

... Have you considered Amazon.com selling yourself Gene? Then you wouldn't have to worry about the whole SKU issue... Your MMRS system is almost perfect for the Shipped By Amazon thing too cause all you'd have to do is put the parts in a box/padded envelope and put a sticker on it heh


----------



## BoxGods

Not sure where I would find the time. You have been patiently waiting for MMRS renders for at least a month now so you know how swamped I am.


----------



## Jidonsu

Well, I think this reservoir would look so much better if it was all white. Time to tear it apart!


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not sure where I would find the time. You have been patiently waiting for MMRS renders for at least a month now so you know how swamped I am.


Pfft I just figured you were just playing around instead of working









Amazon handles pretty much the entire back end on it - you just ship them a case of boxed up parts and post the ad bit, but yea I know what your saying. Maybe when you have more free time heh


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Well, I think this reservoir would look so much better if it was all white. Time to tear it apart!


We should have the white parts in 2 to 3 weeks--in case you missed the pictures of white parts a page or two back.

Awesome build btw =)


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey so who all carry's MMRS? Is it only PPCs, getting ready to pull the trigger a little sooner than I thought, I dont have my case yet but, my Frozen Q is leaking so ya ya got to get it off my bench.

PPCs wants 20 dollars to ship just a 200mm reservoir setup that is half the price of the reservoir (just a tube 2 caps and the bars is all I am ordering atm.) Someone really needs to open another shop PPCs shipping is really starting to upset me lol.

Pretty sad when Aquatuning in another country charges me less for shipping and gets my stuff here faster from Germany.......


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Hey so who all carry's MMRS? Is it only PPCs, getting ready to pull the trigger a little sooner than I thought, I dont have my case yet but, my Frozen Q is leaking so ya ya got to get it off my bench.
> 
> PPCs wants 20 dollars to ship just a 200mm reservoir setup that is half the price of the reservoir (just a tube 2 caps and the bars is all I am ordering atm.) Someone really needs to open another shop PPCs shipping is really starting to upset me lol.
> 
> Pretty sad when Aquatuning in another country charges me less for shipping and gets my stuff here faster from Germany.......


Unfortunately PPCs is the only shop in the US carrying it. Their shipping charges is quite outrageous. I hope someone will open another soon.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Unfortunately PPCs is the only shop in the US carrying it. Their shipping charges is quite outrageous. I hope someone will open another soon.


It doesnt have to be in the US like i said aquatuning shipping is cheaper for me than ppc


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> It doesnt have to be in the US like i said aquatuning shipping is cheaper for me than ppc


Don't forget that Aquatuning also charges state sales tax for US customers.


----------



## xerythul

I could not agree more about the PPCS shipping issue. They always package the stuff really carefully and I have never gotten any damaged items from them but the prices are SO BAD. I always shop from other places first and only buy from PPCS if I have to...which ends up happening often but still!


----------



## BoxGods

MMRS price lists went out to EU resellers so expect to see inventory showing up by the end of the month depending on when they order.

I also just pulled the trigger on a run of white parts...hope that does not come back to bite me in the backside. Anyway they have been added to reseller price lists so you should see them in stock soon.

Matting kits are done and ready for orders.

Vertical Mount is done and ready for orders.

CCFL Plugs are also ready for order.

Still working out some kinks in the inverters but "soon". Yeah Yeah I know, but it is what it is guys, sorry.

Next on my to do list is the replacement motor tube cap for those with longer D5's. Mystriss tells me they do not need much...maybe an extra 4mm or 5mm so should not be a huge deal. Then Rad Mounts.


----------



## fast_fate

It's not just the height though for the Aqua Computer D5 USB
Also cut-outs/holes for the wires needs to be a lot larger.
If you need some form of diagram I can probs help out


----------



## Mystriss

YAY mating kits!!

Since you won't let me send you my AQ D5 at least let me get some solid measurement's and pictures for you. I'd hate for you to run a prototype based on my guess work and have it come out the wrong size. >.< I'll get those for ya tonight, just have to find the pump heh


----------



## Mystriss

It should just be the height of a 2pin connector (pretty sure that's the tallest of the bunch) but I'll post pictures here so us AQD5 folks can collaborate. I think the 5pin usb connector fits through one slot if the wires are separate (only 22gauge wires), and I believe I got the 12v+ground and 2pin sensor through one, but now that you mention it we best check


----------



## BoxGods

I have already increased the size of the wire cut outs for all the caps--new production runs will reflect that.

Some dimensions on a sketch WOULD help tho for the pins.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Don't forget that Aquatuning also charges state sales tax for US customers.


Ugh what state do you live in? I have literally spent like a alot with them on 3 separate orders in the past 4 months and haven't been charged taxes once. The last thing I have bought from them was a Bench Case, it was 250 they didn't charge any taxes and only charged me 7 dollars to ship it. Unless they figure the taxes into the price that is listed, maybe its a per state type deal? Amazon charges me state taxes but no one else does that I have seen.

Edit: I went and checked to make sure I wasn't wrong and ya they didn't charge me.


Spoiler: invoice (well the part that matters lol)







that was like last month so unless it changed since. I have been planning to go there for now on as long as they have what I need, sadly they usually dont. All my orders from them were here in 2 days and shipped for 8 dollars, PPCs takes a week + and charges me 20.

Which is kinda sad to be honest as PPCs is in the US, AT is in Germany.


----------



## VSG

Well they may have changed policies then. They used to charge sales tax no matter what state you were in which made no sense given it was shipping from Germany anyway, some people had complained and I suppose they've dealt with it now.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Well they may have changed policies then. They used to charge sales tax no matter what state you were in which made no sense given it was shipping from Germany anyway, some people had complained and I suppose they've dealt with it now.


Ya that wouldn't make any since to me either lol because like you said all my packages came from germany. That just makes PPCs shipping that much more insane, AT has the same pricing on stuff they both carry and ships stuff from another country for cheaper. I love PPCs and they are a good company for the most part, but they really need to fix there shipping, and there website.

Actually now that I think about it coldzero charges me less for shipping from Portugal too..... I do not know how those guys charge so little to ship to a different country.

Gene, will Mod My Mods get MMRS, or are you not going to deal with them because of Barrow?


----------



## Mystriss

mmk I found my pump and got pictures with /all/ the connectors plugged in (stock AQ 5pin USB and 3pin signal, the 4pin Aquabus and 2pin temp cables are custom):

 


I double checked and I can already get the 5pin USB, 4pin Aquabus, 2pin Temp, 3pin signal wire, and the pump's power wires through the existing holes in the end cap; since those holes were already made bigger I think this a non-issue. \o/

 

In the first pic here I have all the cables plugged into the AQD5 and fed through the end cap (sorry I missed showing all the cables in the photo) The end cap here is perfectly flat, so it is basically this is exactly as one would have it installed. - I can /just/ barely, almost get the threads into the coupler enough to catch (it was close enough that I didn't want to let go and risk stripping the thread on the coupler) I have to presume the foam in the end cap is fully compressed. Measuring the threaded portion of the MMRS cover I come up with 5/16" (7.9mm)

Just measuring the 2.58pin connector and adding enough room for the wires to bend over at the top I get 5/8" (15.9mm) - That would be if the end cap sits perfectly flat on the cover, and the foam inside the end cap was completely un-compressed, and a hair play room since the connectors are recessed on the back of the pump body a little bit.

..


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya that wouldn't make any since to me either lol because like you said all my packages came from germany. That just makes PPCs shipping that much more insane, AT has the same pricing on stuff they both carry and ships stuff from another country for cheaper. I love PPCs and they are a good company for the most part, but they really need to fix there shipping, and there website.
> 
> Actually now that I think about it coldzero charges me less for shipping from Portugal too..... I do not know how those guys charge so little to ship to a different country.
> 
> Gene, will Mod My Mods get MMRS, or are you not going to deal with them because of Barrow?


I would except as you mentioned they are affiliated with Barrow.

I don't want to get TOO far into it as Hank is a good friend...but could somebody explain to me what it is about PPCS shipping (or their policies that ticks everyone off so much? I get quire a few emails ranting about their shipping...but nobody ever says specifically what the issue is. Everything I get from them is well packaged and gets here to Texas fast.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> mmk I found my pump and got pictures with /all/ the connectors plugged in (stock AQ 5pin USB and 3pin signal, the 4pin Aquabus and 2pin temp cables are custom):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I double checked and I can already get the 5pin USB, 4pin Aquabus, 2pin Temp, 3pin signal wire, and the pump's power wires through the existing holes in the end cap; since those holes were already made bigger I think this a non-issue. \o/
> 
> 
> 
> In the first pic here I have all the cables plugged into the AQD5 and fed through the end cap (sorry I missed showing all the cables in the photo) The end cap here is perfectly flat, so it is basically this is exactly as one would have it installed. - I can /just/ barely, almost get the threads into the coupler enough to catch (it was close enough that I didn't want to let go and risk stripping the thread on the coupler) I have to presume the foam in the end cap is fully compressed. Measuring the threaded portion of the MMRS cover I come up with 5/16" (7.9mm)
> 
> Just measuring the 2.58pin connector and adding enough room for the wires to bend over at the top I get 5/8" (15.9mm) - That would be if the end cap sits perfectly flat on the cover, and the foam inside the end cap was completely un-compressed, and a hair play room since the connectors are recessed on the back of the pump body a little bit.
> 
> ..


So actually the center portion of the back needs to be about 18mm taller just to be safe. OK I will draw something up to show you and we can go from there...tho I had no idea it would need so much extra room...so a longer motor tube for this pump might make more sense actually. Bleh.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I would except as you mentioned they are affiliated with Barrow.
> 
> I don't want to get TOO far into it as Hank is a good friend...but could somebody explain to me what it is about PPCS shipping (or their policies that ticks everyone off so much? I get quire a few emails ranting about their shipping...but nobody ever says specifically what the issue is. Everything I get from them is well packaged and gets here to Texas fast.


It isn't that it isn't shipped out fast, or that it isn't packaged well. It is the prices that he charges for shipping rates. As I stated for your reservoir system, I have in my cart a 200mm blood red tube, 200mm set of tension rods, and 2 no port dual side port end caps.

His quote to ship that package (which is 46 dollars worth of stuff.) is 19.07 for USPS, 17.43 for Fed Ex, and 18.23 for UPS. Now as someone that sells and ships things quite often through all those companies that is about 3-4x what the actual price to ship that is.

Also I cannot speak for everyone in ever locale, as I have seen when we had a major discussion about it that Florida residents were getting decent shipping costs. However me in Arizona well I just quoted you mine









When FCPU was still in business, there items were sometimes a tad more expensive (a dollar or 2) however there shipping was usually around 4-7 dollars for me, The most I ever paid for shipping from them was 12 dollars and that time it was a huge box with 3 EK GPU blocks, a pump a ton of fittings 2 rads ect. A few times I have had to order just a fitting from PPCs, for which my shipping cost was twice the cost of the fitting.

Also thanks for the answer about MMM, honestly I had thought that about yourself BP and EK, and actually spoke that in another thread awhile back I had thought that. So I am not surprised nor do I blame you at all







.


----------



## ruffhi

How much does your bending kit weight with the suitcase? PPCs has it at 9lbs. How much does the version weight without the suitcase? PPCs recently had it at 9.5lbs. After I weighted mine and reported it at max 2lb, they modified their weight to 5lb. They did say that they were charged extra 'weight' because of the box's dimensions. That said ... they did ship it in a box that was 30% full of stuff I purchased and 70% full of packing peanuts.

Hmm ... it also had 2 x 120.3 rads in it (85% of the shipping weight) ... maybe that is why the box was so big.

Anyway ... I have another box coming tomorrow with a ton of monsoon plugs ... I'll take a picture of the box as it comes and once I empty the peanuts out of it.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> How much does your bending kit weight with the suitcase? PPCs has it at 9lbs. How much does the version weight without the suitcase? PPCs recently had it at 9.5lbs. After I weighted mine and reported it at max 2lb, they modified their weight to 5lb. *They did say that they were charged extra 'weight' because of the box's dimensions.* That said ... they did ship it in a box that was 30% full of stuff I purchased and 70% full of packing peanuts.
> 
> Hmm ... it also had 2 x 120.3 rads in it (85% of the shipping weight) ... maybe that is why the box was so big.
> 
> Anyway ... I have another box coming tomorrow with a ton of monsoon plugs ... I'll take a picture of the box as it comes and once I empty the peanuts out of it.


See that is boloney







, you do not get charged more weight rate for a larger box lol, Actually I find that usually the "Flat Rate Boxs" that people use over charge you. I recently shipped a bunch of stuff some waterblocks and heatsinks. I used a box about the size of the medium shipping box, the package weighed about 12lbs, and shipped it to the other coast, my cost 8.43. It had peanuts, it had a large box (USPS has the Large box check is any side is over 12 I think it is) even with all that 8 dollars. For a bunch of heavy metal heatsinks and waterblocks. The reservoir in question is not only smaller but lighter and somehow 20 dollars.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> It isn't that it isn't shipped out fast, or that it isn't packaged well. It is the prices that he charges for shipping rates. As I stated for your reservoir system, I have in my cart a 200mm blood red tube, 200mm set of tension rods, and 2 no port dual side port end caps.
> 
> His quote to ship that package (which is 46 dollars worth of stuff.) is 19.07 for USPS, 17.43 for Fed Ex, and 18.23 for UPS. Now as someone that sells and ships things quite often through all those companies that is about 3-4x what the actual price to ship that is.
> 
> When FCPU was still in business, there items were sometimes a tad more expensive (a dollar or 2) however there shipping was usually around 4-7 dollars for me, The most I ever paid for shipping from them was 12 dollars and that time it was a huge box with 3 EK GPU blocks, a pump a ton of fittings 2 rads ect. A few times I have had to order just a fitting from PPCs, for which my shipping cost was twice the cost of the fitting.
> 
> Also thanks for the answer about MMM, honestly I had thought that about yourself BP and EK, and actually spoke that in another thread awhile back I had thought that. So I am not surprised nor do I blame you at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I have no idea on the shipping...I can say from my personal experience over the last five years dealing with Hank that he is as honest as the day is long. I sincerely and truly mean that. There were several times when we were starting out where we made book keeping errors that would have cost us a fair bit of money and he caught them and brought them to our attention every time. I would bet that if your shipping was over charged it was some mistake he is not aware of and that an email would go a long way because if he found an error he would make it right I am positive. He has ALWAYS been more than fair and decent with us...and I am not the easiest person to get along with. We have had some pretty big arguments =)


----------



## BoxGods

That is a good point...shipping companies don't always just charge on weight alone. They do that thing where they multiply length times width times height.

Like I said, don't just assume they are intentionally cheating you. Bring it to their attention via an email and I am positive that if they find an issue they will make it right for you.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have no idea on the shipping...I can say from my personal experience over the last five years dealing with Hank that he is as honest as the day is long. I sincerely and truly mean that. There were several times when we were starting out where we made book keeping errors that would have cost us a fair bit of money and he caught them and brought them to our attention every time. I would bet that if your shipping was over charged it was some mistake he is not aware of and that an email would go a long way because if he found an error he would make it right I am positive. He has ALWAYS been more than fair and decent with us...and I am not the easiest person to get along with. We have had some pretty big arguments =)


Well part of the issue I think he is fully aware of, As was just pointed out. He has your prebuilt reservoir system listed at 12 pounds. So a 200mm reservoir is that 12lbs?

If it really is 12 pounds well thats an issue as my entire case doesn't weigh as much as a 200mm mmrs







.

I really wish you had your own webstore where I could buy from you direct, as you are the only brand I really use that does not. My favorite brand for most stuff is EK and I can order direct from them in there country shipped for less than from PPCs, so I go there.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya that wouldn't make any since to me either lol because like you said all my packages came from germany. That just makes PPCs shipping that much more insane, AT has the same pricing on stuff they both carry and ships stuff from another country for cheaper. I love PPCs and they are a good company for the most part, but they really need to fix there shipping, and there website.
> 
> Actually now that I think about it coldzero charges me less for shipping from Portugal too..... I do not know how those guys charge so little to ship to a different country.
> 
> Gene, will Mod My Mods get MMRS, or are you not going to deal with them because of Barrow?
> 
> 
> 
> I would except as you mentioned they are affiliated with Barrow.
> 
> I don't want to get TOO far into it as Hank is a good friend...but could somebody explain to me what it is about PPCS shipping (or their policies that ticks everyone off so much? I get quire a few emails ranting about their shipping...but nobody ever says specifically what the issue is. Everything I get from them is well packaged and gets here to Texas fast.
Click to expand...

Two 6packs of Economies cost me $13 shipping. Should've been half that, as you can get them into a USPS Priority Shipping VHS mailer for half that. I could've added the NPT/ G1/4 fitting I needed and still woul've been overcharged. I got them in perfect condition but there were a ton of green Cheetos in the box. This is the problem people are having with PPCs. It's not the price for the products. Those are reasonable. Their shipping quote system sucks rancid beans imho.









I will still use them but it's pretty bad when their quote is wrong and the USPS competitors aren't much more expensive than USPS pricing.









I can take a pic of the last box I got and you can see if you like. With or w/o 6packs?









~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

My new MMRS Res for my rebuild.


Hey Gene i found another way to use your fillport tops. Going to cut a hole in my acrylic sheet cut the fillport tube down then use it for a passthru with some style


----------



## Deedaz

Any plans to switch to white parts once released? I think I might once the ccfl tubes are released too.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene i found another way to use your fillport tops. Going to cut a hole in my acrylic sheet cut the fillport tube down then use it for a passthru with some style


I think the mating kits will work fairly well as a pass-thru also...FDP would look cooler probably as that is what it is designed to do.


----------



## Grambokaa

I'm a long time lurker on OCN but I decided I better toss up my first post to deliver a PSA of sorts.

I decided to rework the rigid tubing in my current system after I saw the Monsoon MMRS and fell in love with the idea. So I ordered all the parts I would need from PPCS with the intent of doing the work over this weekend. I received everything I needed without a hitch... EXCEPT... once I started to piece the reservoirs together (I use 2 in my loop) I found something that will be putting me on hold for awhile.



Seems the triple port end cap without side ports I got was misaligned during manufacturing that resulted in an output configuration I can't use... bummer. I got all my parts from PPCS so I called them and sent them an email with pics since it seemed they may have been unaware of the issue.

I haven't gotten a response yet as to whether this issue affects their entire stock of triple port caps (except side port verisions, as they are out of stock) or that I was just crazy unlucky...


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I think the mating kits will work fairly well as a pass-thru also...FDP would look cooler probably as that is what it is designed to do.


Since i am going to place acrylic on the rails with my Mb tray i need to get wires down thru i thought that would be a nice look


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grambokaa*
> 
> Seems the triple port end cap without side ports I got was misaligned during manufacturing that resulted in an output configuration I can't use... bummer. I got all my parts from PPCS so I called them and sent them an email with pics since it seemed they may have been unaware of the issue.


Not saying that this is what happened, but the end units have 3 sets of 2 holes for mounting ... with the 2 outside sets offset by 30° (IIRC). Are you using one of the 'outside' set of mounting holes in the one on the right?


----------



## Grambokaa

Nah, I'm using the center mount holes on both caps. Once you look at where the port holes are in relation to the rod positions, you will see it is not fixable by any positioning. Here are some more pics to show that they are both mounted using the center set of holes, for reference.


This is the "good" or "correct" cap


This is the "bad" or "incorrect" cap

I definitely wanted it to be my error when I put them together... but quickly realized it was not... and I was sad


----------



## Radnad

If that is the case then I'm sad too. I was planning on connecting 2 MMRS with tubes between in my next loop.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grambokaa*
> 
> I'm a long time lurker on OCN but I decided I better toss up my first post to deliver a PSA of sorts.
> 
> I decided to rework the rigid tubing in my current system after I saw the Monsoon MMRS and fell in love with the idea. So I ordered all the parts I would need from PPCS with the intent of doing the work over this weekend. I received everything I needed without a hitch... EXCEPT... once I started to piece the reservoirs together (I use 2 in my loop) I found something that will be putting me on hold for awhile.
> 
> 
> 
> Seems the triple port end cap without side ports I got was misaligned during manufacturing that resulted in an output configuration I can't use... bummer. I got all my parts from PPCS so I called them and sent them an email with pics since it seemed they may have been unaware of the issue.
> 
> I haven't gotten a response yet as to whether this issue affects their entire stock of triple port caps (except side port verisions, as they are out of stock) or that I was just crazy unlucky...


The 2 x MMRS-EC-3P caps I got from PPCs are just like in your picture above.

I wonder what the reason for having the top ports in different spots for the cap which also has the 2 front facing ports ?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grambokaa*
> 
> I'm a long time lurker on OCN but I decided I better toss up my first post to deliver a PSA of sorts.
> 
> I decided to rework the rigid tubing in my current system after I saw the Monsoon MMRS and fell in love with the idea. So I ordered all the parts I would need from PPCS with the intent of doing the work over this weekend. I received everything I needed without a hitch... EXCEPT... once I started to piece the reservoirs together (I use 2 in my loop) I found something that will be putting me on hold for awhile.
> 
> 
> 
> Seems the triple port end cap without side ports I got was misaligned during manufacturing that resulted in an output configuration I can't use... bummer. I got all my parts from PPCS so I called them and sent them an email with pics since it seemed they may have been unaware of the issue.
> 
> I haven't gotten a response yet as to whether this issue affects their entire stock of triple port caps (except side port verisions, as they are out of stock) or that I was just crazy unlucky...


Performance has already contacted me and I am looking into it and will let you know once I do. Sorry that it takes more than two minutes to get some answers =)

The one on the left (with side ports is the correct layout)


----------



## Jidonsu

My cap is also the same way and thought it was a bit odd that it wasn't centered.


----------



## Grambokaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance has already contacted me and I am looking into it and will let you know once I do. Sorry that it takes more than two minutes to get some answers =)
> 
> The one on the left (with side ports is the correct layout)


I understand completely and thank you for the response. _*quietly puts torch and pitchfork away*_

These kinds of things are bound to happen. Especially when you're dealing with a newer product. I only posted on here to let other OCNers know that there was an issue in case they were going to order, or (like me) had already ordered but didn't notice until the day they were going to use them.

For now, I'm just going to use the cap I got. I'll just run vinyl tubing to and from it until I can get another with the ports where they were meant to be so I can run rigid.


----------



## BoxGods

I looked at my drawings and I show the ports the correct way, (they match IOW) so not sure where the disconnect happened yet. I will talk to the guys tonight and find out what is going on.

Those of you with the Sketchup models can look for yourselves...those were pulled directly from my production drawings.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have already increased the size of the wire cut outs for all the caps--new production runs will reflect that.


Will the cap with the widen cut outs be available for purchase. I need one of those to replace the old one I got.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> So actually the center portion of the back needs to be about 18mm taller just to be safe. OK I will draw something up to show you and we can go from there...tho I had no idea it would need so much extra room...so a longer motor tube for this pump might make more sense actually. Bleh.


I really don't think we need the full height of the connectors behind the pump...

This is silly! I'm putting the pump (and cables) in a box to go to the post office Monday, don't make me look your business address up


----------



## BoxGods

Update on the EC-3P port location error.

Checked in with my guys...and on one of the subsequent runs a "new guy" was not aware that the ports needed to be machined in a specific place relative to the mounting holes. He is now aware...should not happen again.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Will the cap with the widen cut outs be available for purchase. I need one of those to replace the old one I got.


There is no specific date as the change has been slipped in on an "as run" basis. That means that all new production runs of the caps get the change and the parts will start showing up at resellers as they reorder inventory.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I really don't think we need the full height of the connectors behind the pump...
> 
> This is silly! I'm putting the pump (and cables) in a box to go to the post office Monday, don't make me look your business address up


Honestly...there is no need. The pictures you sent are plenty. I will draw it up and let you have a look and get your feed back. Actually one more picture with the motor tube screwed all the way in onto the pump, but taken from a dead on side view, would help.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Update on the EC-3P port location error.
> 
> Checked in with my guys...and on one of the subsequent runs a "new guy" was not aware that the ports needed to be machined in a specific place relative to the mounting holes. He is now aware...should not happen again.


FNG, I swear, lol. But we were all a FNG once. If we get the wrong one should we RMA through ppcs?


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Honestly...there is no need. The pictures you sent are plenty. I will draw it up and let you have a look and get your feed back. Actually one more picture with the motor tube screwed all the way in onto the pump, but taken from a dead on side view, would help.


Stubborn ~sigh~

The connectors are recessed into the existing end cap like 1cm (second picture) which is why I really don't think we need an extra 15mm.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> FNG, I swear, lol. But we were all a FNG once. If we get the wrong one should we RMA through ppcs?


No not their mistake. I had my guys go through all of our stock and destroy all that were out of spec so no more will ship like that from this point. Just shoot me a PM or email with your shipping information and I will send out a replacement.

I apologize for the error and any inconvenience it causes--we will make it right for you ASAP.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Stubborn ~sigh~
> 
> The connectors are recessed into the existing end cap like 1cm (second picture) which is why I really don't think we need an extra 15mm.


I would just make an over-sized hole in the center of the cap for wire pass-thru but there are two issues with that. The hole needs to be large enough for the plugs which kind of looks bad, and being off to the side tends to make stealth routing of the wires easier and look better. Just looks kind of weird to me centered.


----------



## BoxGods

After tinkering with it I am not sure a bumped out end cap is really the way to go. The extended or "deepened" area may not be directly over the area where it is needed...it looks a bit bland...and the end cap material doubles in thickness wich drives the cost up a fair bit.

Will be a huge headache (and I dread it) but maybe a 10mm longer motor tube (as you originally suggested) is the better way to go.


----------



## BoxGods

On a brighter note (not really) the brand new vertical mounts we just finished making would not fit a motor tube that is 10mm longer...

Sigh.


----------



## fast_fate




----------



## Mystriss

Hmm the connectors are offset so I'm not sure the render you did would work; they're kind of toward the top of the pump rather than the center. If you were to do a bump out end cap, I think it'd have to be the whole end cap rather than stylized, (though I do think like 8mm would be more than enough room.)

I do 100% agree that just cutting a hole in the end cap for the wires would look bad. Unless there was some kind of cap for the wires, like a 90 degree box to thread the cables through or something, but idk it'd be kinda weird imo - clunky looking.

Too cut costs would a double threaded extension for the existing cover work? Like if you did the ridge pattern on the extension and let it blend right into the TRP coupler and existing cover?

On the other hand, I'm willing to pay extra for the extended cover heh

I'm not seeing how the vert. mount wouldn't work with a longer cover in my head though. Doesn't the mount attach to the TRP coupler? Or are you saying it throws the look off?


----------



## BoxGods

Actually...an extension is not a bad idea, but maybe on the cap end rather then the thread end might be better.

As for the vertical mount, the image below explains it.


----------



## Ceadderman

So the Cap end wold be deeper?









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So the Cap end wold be deeper?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


It would basically be a 10mm tall extension ring that fits onto the tube the same way the cap does--with the set screws. Then you install the standard end cap into the extension as normal. The net result is you get the extra 10mm of space needed for the pins on that pump model.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> So the Cap end wold be deeper?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would basically be a 10mm tall extension ring that fits onto the tube the same way the cap does--with the set screws. Then you install the standard end cap into the extension as normal. The net result is you get the extra 10mm of space needed for the pins on that pump model.
Click to expand...

Ahhh okay. I had to think about it some before this made sense.









So Pump cap > Pump > threaded ring > cover. Right?









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

I will draw it up and post it to show you guys before I make anything.


----------



## iBruce

Used Monsoon parts for all three first water loops, none in this fourth loop and I'm not ashamed of it.









Great parts, but I had to move to a higher calling with this inaudible work rig, it's just a spiritual thing I guess, that bitspower super bright white is hard to say no to, when you only need 14 fittings functional and end stop.

Wish to thank Mr. Monsoon, man did you make the early days of watercooling so simple and easy, when I was a beginner, your fittings were there to give me comfort and ease of use and I slept better at night, so thank you.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBruce*
> 
> Used Monsoon parts for all three first water loops, none in this fourth loop and I'm not ashamed of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Great parts, but I had to move to a higher calling with this inaudible work rig, it's just a spiritual thing I guess, that bitspower super bright white is hard to say no to, when you only need 14 fittings functional and end stop.
> 
> Wish to thank Mr. Monsoon, man did you make the early days of watercooling so simple and easy, when I was a beginner, your fittings were there to give me comfort and ease of use and I slept better at night, so thank you.


You're welcome =)


----------



## BoxGods

OK...Thanks to Mystriss and her cutting through the mental clutter (all mine as usual) with such an elegant , simple, and inexpensive solution. Try this on for size. It gives you a 12mm extension inside the cap which should be plenty of space for the pins and plugs. The wire openings in the cap are also 1mm bigger in all directions, (so about 3mm more opening).

The extension ring is shown both installed and sitting next to the motor tube for reference. Thoughts?


----------



## VSG

Looks great, and what I would vote on if there was an election


----------



## ruffhi

Just picked up a while bunch of Monsoon plugs for my 2 radiators (Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 120.3 Multiport ... 8 ports per!) ... I also have some gold, orange and matte black that will crop up in (hopefully) interesting places through out my build.


----------



## jincuteguy

Anyone notice PPCs website is no longer slow anymore? This is a plus sign.


----------



## Methodical

It's faster on Firefox, but I continue to have issues on Google Chrome; I can't even get into my wishlist or cart. I keep having issues with Shockwave on Google (did all the fixes without success), so that could be the problem. I clear the cache, but still no go, so I'm slowly moving back to Firefox as my main browser.


----------



## NeeqOne

Chrome has started blocking flash content. So PPCs won't work well on that platform. It is better to use Firefox for any website that still uses flash.


----------



## Ceadderman

I don't have any problems with my Chrome. I play fB games and surf PPCs with it w/o issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*


~low whistle~ OIC now... Well /that/ is a bit of a bummer... That mount is absolutely gorgeous, I must have missed the pictures of it somehow.

I personally don't need a vert mount for my AQD5 so I'm alright with this unfortunate happenstance and biased no doubt. However, the circumstance of someone having both an AQD5 pump /and/ wanting to use the vert mount is going to be a infinitesimal market yea? ( Are any of the AQD5 folks in here worried about this? )

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*


I think that looks stellar. It doesn't say "Band-Aid" in any way, shape, or form, and overall looks like it was designed to look like that. ~offers her stamp of approval on the looks~

Am I correct in presuming this secures using the set screws; the 2 on the existing standard cover hold the extension ring and 2 on the extension ring will hold the end cap?









Also, for anyone who might have concerns (as my husband did when I showed him the extension picture,) the seal with the pump and the coupler is created by a notch inside the [opposite] threaded side of the MMRS cover which catches the lip of the pump and pushes the pump against the o-ring as you screw the cover into the coupler.



Technically one can use the MMRS pump cover body without the end cap - which is very beneficial to us AQD5 folks as we will be able to access the USB and AquaBus connections to initialize our pumps at any time without having to drain our loop


----------



## BoxGods

I just checked...loads fine for me as well.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> ~low whistle~ OIC now... Well /that/ is a bit of a bummer... That mount is absolutely gorgeous, I must have missed the pictures of it somehow.
> 
> I personally don't need a vert mount for my AQD5 so I'm alright with this unfortunate happenstance and biased no doubt. However, the circumstance of someone having both an AQD5 pump /and/ wanting to use the vert mount is going to be a infinitesimal market yea? ( Are any of the AQD5 folks in here worried about this? )
> I think that looks stellar. It doesn't say "Band-Aid" in any way, shape, or form, and overall looks like it was designed to look like that. ~offers her stamp of approval on the looks~
> 
> Am I correct in presuming this secures using the set screws; the 2 on the existing standard cover hold the extension ring and 2 on the extension ring will hold the end cap?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, for anyone who might have concerns (as my husband did when I showed him the extension picture,) the seal with the pump and the coupler is created by a notch inside the [opposite] threaded side of the MMRS cover which catches the lip of the pump and pushes the pump against the o-ring as you screw the cover into the coupler.
> 
> Technically one can use the MMRS pump cover body without the end cap - which is very beneficial to us AQD5 folks as we will be able to access the USB and AquaBus connections to initialize our pumps at any time without having to drain our loop


Correct on the set screws. A person could actually use more then one extension if for any reason they wanted to--no idea why you would but it would work.


----------



## Mystriss

Ah actually I could see one using and extension if, for example, they wanted to fill in a "gap" in their case - similar to the concept behind the FDP cap's slider flexibility.


----------



## BoxGods

I was thinking use a few as a place to hide your thumb drive of top secrete spy stuff (aka porn or weed stash =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I was thinking use a few as a place to hide your thumb drive of top secrete spy stuff (*aka porn or weed stash* =)












~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

mmm I suppose for some folks that might be necessary.

My kids are grown and I've been married for over 10 years so there's no reason to hide my porn and weed's legal up here so I wouldn't have to hide that either









I could however hide a flash drive in there; my latest next door neighbors are married police officers so it couldn't hurt... ( Though I've learned far better alternative methods for hiding my sekret spy stuff; the previous neighbor was an FBI agent who would hack into our wifi for ****s-n-giggles when we hosted block parties lol )


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


he must have some voodoo...I never could get weed on my thumb drive lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> he must have some voodoo...I never could get weed on my thumb drive lol
Click to expand...

Nope that's the name of the strain..."thumb drive".







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nope that's the name of the strain..."thumb drive".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


why because reality is stored "in a safe place" while you're out to lunch lol


----------



## Mystriss

What a horrible name for a strain, it's like "geek weed," an oxymoron or something... Though I suppose I shouldn't talk, when I was in HS I was the only geek who smoked. I was a rebel man!! Geek, honor roll, stoner... I'll take all the things if you please kind sir.

Anyway, up here we only had one strain "MTF" (MatanuskaThunderF***) Alaska Grown was a huge deal and we snubbed "foreign" plants and additives; valley soil or nothing was the motto. Lesse it was "gen. IV" when I quit back in the 90's (before the Feds forced Alaska to make it illegal - against our state constitution I might add,) I don't even want to think about what generation they're up to now cause it'll make me feel old


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> What a horrible name for a strain, it's like "geek weed," an oxymoron or something... Though I suppose I shouldn't talk, when I was in HS I was the only geek who smoked. I was a rebel man!! Geek, honor roll, stoner... I'll take all the things if you please kind sir.
> 
> Anyway, up here we only had one strain "MTF" (MatanuskaThunderF***) Alaska Grown was a huge deal and we snubbed "foreign" plants and additives; valley soil or nothing was the motto. Lesse it was "gen. IV" when I quit back in the 90's (before the Feds forced Alaska to make it illegal - against our state constitution I might add,) I don't even want to think about what generation they're up to now cause it'll make me feel old


I was spoiled by comparison. Spent my formative years in Oahu and grew up in California. I had everything at my disposal from Humbolt to Maui Wowie. And I too was a nerd. My grades didn't show it but having grown up in Palo Alto, I had access to Apple II and IBM. It was only after my stint in the Navy, that that side of me took hold over everything else. The government had begun installing Internet Terminals on our ships when I was mustering out. Which meant that we had nearly unlimited access to our families at home. So when I got back home, I was into computers hardcore. Still liked to partake with my friends but I've never really been a follower.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Man...now I have to tell my "funny weed story".

My wife and I once owned a smoke shop. The guy who managed it occasionally made KB brownies that are somewhat of a local legend. We are older and neither have ever been all that into pot for some back story. So one night he gives us a couple of these brownies on his way out and after we closed up the shop at midnight we each had one and then headed home. Stopped at Jack in the box for food right about the time they started kicking in and did the cliche huge food order thing.

From our shop to Jack to home is about a 10 block loop. My wife keeps insisting "I don't feel anything" right up till she keels over head first into my lap and starts snoring. I stop at a four way stop sign about a block from our house and take a drink from the super sized soda. I close my eyes a second, then take another drink and I wonder how all the ice in the drink melted so fast. I look at the clock in the truck...and it is 4:30 AM. Look to my right and a police cruiser is just rolling up to the stop sign.

Massive freak out (of course) and I do my best to drive normal the last block to our driveway--the cops decide to follow (of course).

Turns out I sat there at the stop sign with my foot on the break, motor running for over four hours. Wife snoring away in my lap. It felt like I closed my eyes for maybe 2 seconds.


----------



## Deedaz

That is hilarious!







I've got some good stories of my own


----------



## VSG

Lol.. I am happy hearing other's pot stories myself


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man...now I have to tell my "funny weed story".
> 
> My wife and I once owned a smoke shop. The guy who managed it occasionally made KB brownies that are somewhat of a local legend. We are older and neither have ever been all that into pot for some back story. So one night he gives us a couple of these brownies on his way out and after we closed up the shop at midnight we each had one and then headed home. Stopped at Jack in the box for food right about the time they started kicking in and did the cliche huge food order thing.
> 
> From our shop to Jack to home is about a 10 block loop. My wife keeps insisting "I don't feel anything" right up till she keels over head first into my lap and starts snoring. I stop at a four way stop sign about a block from our house and take a drink from the super sized soda. I close my eyes a second, then take another drink and I wonder how all the ice in the drink melted so fast. I look at the clock in the truck...and it is 4:30 AM. Look to my right and a police cruiser is just rolling up to the stop sign.
> 
> Massive freak out (of course) and I do my best to drive normal the last block to our driveway--the cops decide to follow (of course).
> 
> Turns out I sat there at the stop sign with my foot on the break, motor running for over four hours. Wife snoring away in my lap. It felt like I closed my eyes for maybe 2 seconds.












I have absolutely nothing that good other than my uncle asked me if I were stoned one day. He was one of the first K9 Officers in the Bay Area. He was one of two in the Palo Alto PD. Pretty sure he noticed , but since he'd gotten a Pitcher over lunch didn't wish to press the issue. I'd gotten myself in trouble and he'd intervened on my behalf. Never got into any kind of trouble since that day and I thank him every day, by avoiding issues with the law. Had it been my ex stepdad, I'm pretty certain he would've taken the book from the judge to throw it himself.









~Ceadder


----------



## DaClownie

So, I have all my pieces cut, all my radiators mounted, reservoir finally installed. Going to try and get to the UV lock collars this weekend so I can FINALLY put water through this build and run my new beast PC... question...

Should I be chopping some length off the ends of the tube to compensate for the lock collars? If so, how much? I don't want to go everything secured, go to mount it, and realize it's now too long... lol


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So, I have all my pieces cut, all my radiators mounted, reservoir finally installed. Going to try and get to the UV lock collars this weekend so I can FINALLY put water through this build and run my new beast PC... question...
> 
> Should I be chopping some length off the ends of the tube to compensate for the lock collars? If so, how much? I don't want to go everything secured, go to mount it, and realize it's now too long... lol


The length of the collar is 8mm. So you have to account for 1mm of deflection at the ends iirc.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Actually only the end of the collar affects the dimensions. The ends are 2mm thick but I like to only subtract 1mm from each end...not sure why but that tends to work better and if it turns out you need to take another mm it is not a big deal to cut it off...obviously you can't add any back if it is too short also.

I test fit everything before I bond the lock collars on.

Did you get your replacement silicone rod?


----------



## DaClownie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Actually only the end of the collar affects the dimensions. The ends are 2mm thick but I like to only subtract 1mm from each end...not sure why but that tends to work better and if it turns out you need to take another mm it is not a big deal to cut it off...obviously you can't add any back if it is too short also.
> 
> I test fit everything before I bond the lock collars on.
> 
> Did you get your replacement silicone rod?


Replacement everything has arrived, bends are all complete. I will post pics once everything is done so you can check it out. Hopefully I've done Monsoon proud


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> So, I have all my pieces cut, all my radiators mounted, reservoir finally installed. Going to try and get to the UV lock collars this weekend so I can FINALLY put water through this build and run my new beast PC... question...
> 
> Should I be chopping some length off the ends of the tube to compensate for the lock collars? If so, how much? I don't want to go everything secured, go to mount it, and realize it's now too long... lol
> 
> 
> 
> The length of the collar is 8mm. So you have to account for 1mm of deflection at the ends iirc.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Actually only the end of the collar affects the dimensions. The ends are 2mm thick but I like to only subtract 1mm from each end...not sure why but that tends to work better and if it turns out you need to take another mm it is not a big deal to cut it off...obviously you can't add any back if it is too short also.
> 
> I test fit everything before I bond the lock collars on.
> 
> Did you get your replacement silicone rod?


Pretty sure this is what I was saying.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

Ah life was so much... simpler back then. I only have a "stupid" story; my group and I were total computer geeks, free time spent hacking each others computers and hanging out on BBS's (private servers that were kind of the precursor to the internet) We typically just stayed in the basement with our networked games and virus creations, but one night we decided it would be fun to go shoot off fireworks at the gun range on the inlet, which is about 20 miles from anyone's basement.. It didn't take us too long to figure that none of us were coherent enough to drive home. Sooo the cops come up on a gaggle of a dozen nerds with pocket protectors and scientific calculators whirring away as we tried to calculate the exact rate of snow fall in the street-light. We spent an hour convincing him we'd walked there (about 8 miles from our cars); he didn't believe us and was looking for a DUI charge (because only one of us was walking even remotely straight.) Eventually he gives up and makes a vague threat about how he's going to go look for our cars and if they weren't there we were getting hauled in. My buddy is like DUDEEEE can you give me a ride to my car? So he jumps in the back of the cruiser and off they go... Buddy lost his license that night heh


----------



## BoxGods

High heels, a whip, and...a pocket protector. There's a quixotic image to call it a night on if I ever heard one =)

I'm waking up to ash and dust...I wipe my brow and I sweat my rust...I'm breathing in the chemicals...

Now I suddenly feel like designing a reservoir that looks like a bong


----------



## Ceadderman

I knew there was something kewl about Geno. 










~Ceadder


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> High heels, a whip, and...a pocket protector. There's a quixotic image to call it a night on if I ever heard one =)
> 
> I'm waking up to ash and dust...I wipe my brow and I sweat my rust...I'm breathing in the chemicals...
> 
> Now I suddenly feel like designing a reservoir that looks like a bong


ive seen some pictures of people using bongs as a reservoir but here's the thing...who buys a bong and doesn't use it? Then decides whoa man I need a res..hey dude you've got that bong we never used - said no one ever...

What would be unique but would probably not be lucrative would be a "reservoir" with two chambers that acts as a working hookah of sorts...lol most people who smoke do so right in front of their computers then proceed to "bang my mom" after they lose or win at call of duty


----------



## gdubc




----------



## BoxGods

Actually ten years or so ago bong "style" coolers were pretty popular. For those that don't know the type, it was open air reservoirs that used a form of evaporation for a little cooling boost. The "open" part was a problem for people who carted their rigs to LAN's so they faded out pretty fast.


----------



## Mystriss

I'd pondered doing an open air waterfall using one of those table top fountain things for about 30 seconds before I remembered how often we have earthquakes heh


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Another update:
> 
> Production samples of the new mating kits, the vertical mount, and internally mounted CCFL's are on their way here for product pictures and videos. So those items will also be available in January.
> 
> Next up I am going to start tinkering with a radiator / fan type mount. Anything else you guys might be interested in...let me know =)


I would love to know how to use this res and utilize all the fittings.


I love it, but just can't figure out what to do with it. Multiple pump set ups is not a problem. I wish you made a solid divider between the tubes for some cool looking transferring bends in between each section. My son and I were talking and we think we could also use each section as an inlet and outlet for multiple rads and cpu block, sort of pressurize it except each end piece of the res where there would be a pump. Planning on mounting it horizontal using 4 x 50mm or 3x50 for the pressurized and 2x100 for the pumps on each end. This res opens up all sorts of new possibilities if you could only isolate each part of the cylinder. This would look awesome in a caselabs case where you could spread out the tubes and just stack them side by side, one going to the inlet and one coming back to the next section of res. It would eat up some pump power but......................................... go big or go home is the way I look at it. I guess what I'm trying to say that if you made a solid divider that had ports that fed only one side of the divider we could use the res kind of like a junction Could even run different colors in each section. It would be awesome. I'm not very good at conveying what I see in my mind, so if I'm not clear just ask to clarify and I'll try again. You may already have something like this, just a side inlet/outlet divider like the end cap but could be placed in the middle of the tube so you could separate the middle sections of the res from the pump sections. I know this res could not be used for filling or draining, plan on having a 150 light tower for that setting on a DDC 3.2. In other words, no problems that I can four-see doing it other than taxing the pumps a little and adding a little pressure to the res. I think I read that you pressure tested the res somewhere.

On a side note, if you could have someone to write you a program on your website where we could design the complete res/pump/fitting/stand offs and lighting and have a picture of the res we're designing that would change as we chose parts and colors and after we get the res like we want it just hit a button for a parts list for exactly the pump we designed. Man, that would be awesome and help your sells a ton. I bet there are a lot of people new to water cooling that get overwhelmed with all the parts and you're losing sales because of it. PPCs has something but it doesn't change the picture of the res as you change/add/delete colors and parts. Bet you could get it done for next to nothing and it WOULD help sales ALOT. I think you're product is great and it's obvious you've put alot of thought into it along with the chain guns. If properly done, leaks are a thing of the past. Hope to hear from you soon, David.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> I would love to know how to use this res and utilize all the fittings.
> 
> 
> I love it, but just can't figure out what to do with it. Multiple pump set ups is not a problem. I wish you made a solid divider between the tubes for some cool looking transferring bends in between each section. My son and I were talking and we think we could also use each section as an inlet and outlet for multiple rads and cpu block, sort of pressurize it except each end piece of the res where there would be a pump. Planning on mounting it horizontal using 4 x 50mm or 3x50 for the pressurized and 2x100 for the pumps on each end. This res opens up all sorts of new possibilities if you could only isolate each part of the cylinder. This would look awesome in a caselabs case where you could spread out the tubes and just stack them side by side, one going to the inlet and one coming back to the next section of res. It would eat up some pump power but......................................... go big or go home is the way I look at it. I guess what I'm trying to say that if you made a solid divider that had ports that fed only one side of the divider we could use the res kind of like a junction Could even run different colors in each section. It would be awesome. I'm not very good at conveying what I see in my mind, so if I'm not clear just ask to clarify and I'll try again. You may already have something like this, just a side inlet/outlet divider like the end cap but could be placed in the middle of the tube so you could separate the middle sections of the res from the pump sections. I know this res could not be used for filling or draining, plan on having a 150 light tower for that setting on a DDC 3.2. In other words, no problems that I can four-see doing it other than taxing the pumps a little and adding a little pressure to the res. I think I read that you pressure tested the res somewhere.
> 
> On a side note, if you could have someone to write you a program on your website where we could design the complete res/pump/fitting/stand offs and lighting and have a picture of the res we're designing that would change as we chose parts and colors and after we get the res like we want it just hit a button for a parts list for exactly the pump we designed. Man, that would be awesome and help your sells a ton. I bet there are a lot of people new to water cooling that get overwhelmed with all the parts and you're losing sales because of it. PPCs has something but it doesn't change the picture of the res as you change/add/delete colors and parts. Bet you could get it done for next to nothing and it WOULD help sales ALOT. I think you're product is great and it's obvious you've put alot of thought into it along with the chain guns. If properly done, leaks are a thing of the past. Hope to hear from you soon, David.


The recently finished mating kit has a divider that will let you mate two couplers (or TRP or End Caps) together with either an open or closed connection--that should work as the divider you mentioned.

One of the posters on this thread is actually working on a configurator and there are now sketch up models of all the parts (including the mating kits) that you can use to tinker with different configurations and installations in different cases. You can download them here: http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar

As for that specific configuration you posted, that is a custom configuration assembled by Performance PC's.

Hope that helps =)


----------



## gdubc

So, with the coupler, one could do a dual loop with a long tube res split into two parts with different color fluids?


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The recently finished mating kit has a divider that will let you mate two couplers (or TRP or End Caps) together with either an open or closed connection--that should work as the divider you mentioned.
> 
> One of the posters on this thread is actually working on a configurator and there are now sketch up models of all the parts (including the mating kits) that you can use to tinker with different configurations and installations in different cases. You can download them here: http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar
> 
> As for that specific configuration you posted, that is a custom configuration assembled by Performance PC's.
> 
> Hope that helps =)


Thank you sir. I will wait on the build for this. I even think I will ditch the 150ml ek res' for your products just because you cared enough to answer my post. I will go with chain gun mission criticals also. Once again, thank you sir for listening to a customer. You're doing it right. David Ledbetter, US Army, retired.


----------



## DaClownie

I know this must sound like a dumb question... but how do I open the bottle of UV glue for the lock collars? Most bottles of that style have a pin in the cap to puncture, but this does not. I'd hate to open this incorrectly and make it so I can't use the little blue applicators.

I have everything cut, measured, and ready to go... last step is these collars and then compression time.

I just cut the tip down to the second notch and then screw the blue tip into the new larger opening?


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I know this must sound like a dumb question... but how do I open the bottle of UV glue for the lock collars? Most bottles of that style have a pin in the cap to puncture, but this does not. I'd hate to open this incorrectly and make it so I can't use the little blue applicators.
> 
> I have everything cut, measured, and ready to go... last step is these collars and then compression time.
> 
> I just cut the tip down to the second notch and then screw the blue tip into the new larger opening?[/quowhat I understood it for
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I know this must sound like a dumb question... but how do I open the bottle of UV glue for the lock collars? Most bottles of that style have a pin in the cap to puncture, but this does not. I'd hate to open this incorrectly and make it so I can't use the little blue applicators.
> 
> I have everything cut, measured, and ready to go... last step is these collars and then compression time.
> 
> I just cut the tip down to the second notch and then screw the blue tip into the new larger opening?
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, I always have what seem like dumb question too, my poor brain has taken it's share of trauma, but I use google until there is no other way to get an answer. I hope these two "pro" tips help. hehe Post some pics of the fittings too.
Click to expand...


----------



## DaClownie

Oh, didn't see that image... ok here goes.


----------



## DaClownie

My bottle was defective. It was sealed half way down the stem and the applicator tips wouldn't work but I made do



No leaks on initial fill ??


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> My bottle was defective. It was sealed half way down the stem and the applicator tips wouldn't work but I made do
> 
> 
> 
> No leaks on initial fill ??


Nice build sir








Though I wonder where did you hide the res ??

@boxgods I've been searching thrugh all monsoon products at ppcs but cannot seem to find/locate the ccfl lighting tubes to install inside the res' ? Are they not yet on the market or ?

Malum


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> My bottle was defective. It was sealed half way down the stem and the applicator tips wouldn't work but I made do
> 
> 
> 
> No leaks on initial fill ??
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though I wonder where did you hide the res ??
> 
> @boxgods I've been searching thrugh all monsoon products at ppcs but cannot seem to find/locate the ccfl lighting tubes to install inside the res' ? Are they not yet on the market or ?
> 
> Malum
Click to expand...

Nope. Not yet available. Only the externals are available.









~Ceadder


----------



## jvillaveces

My computer is finally rebuilt. New M8 Gene, new compression fittings (Bitspower), new tubing (also BP), airtight on the first try, now bleeding away. "Luckily" the only electronic component that fell victim to the Free Center compressions was my mobo. As soon as the loop was up and running satisfactorily, I had a little ceremony with myself, where I tossed in the garbage 8m of Monsoon tubing I have no use for now that I'm not using the fittings anymore, a couple boxes of compression collars, two bottles of glue, every fitting and bend removed from my PC, and a dozen extra fittings I had in inventory. All told, I think my adventure with the free centers cost me around $1K, plus a month's delay on my build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> My computer is finally rebuilt. New M8 Gene, new compression fittings (Bitspower), new tubing (also BP), airtight on the first try, now bleeding away. "Luckily" the only electronic component that fell victim to the Free Center compressions was my mobo. As soon as the loop was up and running satisfactorily, I had a little ceremony with myself, where I tossed in the garbage 8m of Monsoon tubing I have no use for now that I'm not using the fittings anymore, a couple boxes of compression collars, two bottles of glue, every fitting and bend removed from my PC, and a dozen extra fittings I had in inventory. All told, I think my adventure with the free centers cost me around $1K, plus a month's delay on my build.


A good air test gauge coulda saved you quite a chunk then I would say. Too bad you pitched it all.









No offense meant, but imho you likely did something wrong and are chalking it up to the brand rather than taking the time to figure out what exactly went wrong and where exactly it happened. It's your wallet, but a real waste imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

Hey Gene i was setting my new res up to test and i found one of the joining studs for the Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube Coupler was .27mm smaller in diameter than the rest.I just cut off the head from one of the bolts that i didnt need and it seems nice and tight.I thought at first i stripped it but when i replaced it with the bolt no issues.

I tried it on all the other rods and it did the same thing. No idea whats up with it and it dose not seem to be stripped.

I dont need it replaced since i used the bolt but wanted to give you a heads up


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> My computer is finally rebuilt. New M8 Gene, new compression fittings (Bitspower), new tubing (also BP), airtight on the first try, now bleeding away. "Luckily" the only electronic component that fell victim to the Free Center compressions was my mobo. As soon as the loop was up and running satisfactorily, I had a little ceremony with myself, where I tossed in the garbage 8m of Monsoon tubing I have no use for now that I'm not using the fittings anymore, a couple boxes of compression collars, two bottles of glue, every fitting and bend removed from my PC, and a dozen extra fittings I had in inventory. All told, I think my adventure with the free centers cost me around $1K, plus a month's delay on my build.
> 
> 
> 
> A good air test gauge coulda saved you quite a chunk then I would say. Too bad you pitched it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense meant, but imho you likely did something wrong and are chalking it up to the brand rather than taking the time to figure out what exactly went wrong and where exactly it happened. It's your wallet, but a real waste imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I 2nd this opinion.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> My computer is finally rebuilt. New M8 Gene, new compression fittings (Bitspower), new tubing (also BP), airtight on the first try, now bleeding away. "Luckily" the only electronic component that fell victim to the Free Center compressions was my mobo. As soon as the loop was up and running satisfactorily, I had a little ceremony with myself, where I tossed in the garbage 8m of Monsoon tubing I have no use for now that I'm not using the fittings anymore, a couple boxes of compression collars, two bottles of glue, every fitting and bend removed from my PC, and a dozen extra fittings I had in inventory. All told, I think my adventure with the free centers cost me around $1K, plus a month's delay on my build.
> 
> 
> 
> A good air test gauge coulda saved you quite a chunk then I would say. Too bad you pitched it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense meant, but imho you likely did something wrong and are chalking it up to the brand rather than taking the time to figure out what exactly went wrong and where exactly it happened. It's your wallet, but a real waste imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

It's not the brand, it's the user. But let's see:
- I got acrylic collars that cracked AFTER I air-tested and leak tested with fluid. I was still running off an external PSU, so no electronic damage, but had to rebuild the loop (you can't reuse the tubing)
- I cured the glue using an UV manicure lamp, so a new batch of collar failures. After the fact, Geno told me that only actual sunllight should be used. Maybe that was the problem, maybe it was old glue, maybe both.
- I bought a bunch of spare lock collars. It turned out that half of them were acrylic, and therefore, useless.
- I made a third set of tubes, put pc collars on them, used a brand new tube of glue and cured them in sunlight. Air test OK. Leak test 24 hours OK. Powered up my system and left it connected to the internet to install stuff; 48 hours later, I had a dead system and a small puddle of coolant: two more collars had failed, the glue simply gave up under the pressure from the compression fittings. Why? I don't know, and by that point, I didn't (still don't) care to find out.
I'm a noob at watercooling (this is my third build and my first hardline), and I made mistakes (my first problem was not product-related: one of my bends was off by a couple mm and I muscled it onto the fitting anyway, so the compression ring cut into the tube and collar!). But none of the situations I described above, or the ultimate failure of the tubing, were my fault: the glue is only good for a year, but there's no expiration date on the bottle; old (acrylic) collars were defective, but remained in stock, and were included with my brand-new fittings -- btw Geno's recommended way to tell the good ones from the bad ones is to test them to destruction; the glue must be cured a certain way, but there are no instructions anywhere saying so.
I experienced several different ways the collars can fail, none of which could have been prevented by more diligence on my part, because the problems were undocumented. It felt like I was on a joke show with this stupid build, I posted back in this thread that the Free Center fittings are too complicated, and have too many modes of failure, and I stand by my opinion. Maybe more experienced builders than myself would not have experienced the nightmare I did, but the fact that every single failure happened after the leak had passed an air test (30 min at 5 psi) and had been running leak-free for a few hours means, at least to me, that apart from any problems with the user, there are problems with the product.
I prefer to use components that adhere to the KISS principle. Watercooling is complex enough and hazardous enough that we should be looking for ways to reduce and manage risk, not to increase it.
I have no problems with Monsoon as a brand. I love their flex fittings and lightports, the measuring, bending, and cutting kits are awesome, the MMRS is a really exciting concept, and Geno is always ready to stand by his products and to help his customers. This thread is proof that Monsoon is head and shoulders above the competition, and I will continue to use their products every chance I get. That said, I do have a problem with the godawful free center compression system, it sucks!


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> It's not the brand, it's the user. But let's see:
> - I got acrylic collars that cracked AFTER I air-tested and leak tested with fluid. I was still running off an external PSU, so no electronic damage, but had to rebuild the loop (you can't reuse the tubing)
> - I cured the glue using an UV manicure lamp, so a new batch of collar failures. After the fact, Geno told me that only actual sunllight should be used. Maybe that was the problem, maybe it was old glue, maybe both.
> - I bought a bunch of spare lock collars. It turned out that half of them were acrylic, and therefore, useless.
> - I made a third set of tubes, put pc collars on them, used a brand new tube of glue and cured them in sunlight. Air test OK. Leak test 24 hours OK. Powered up my system and left it connected to the internet to install stuff; 48 hours later, I had a dead system and a small puddle of coolant: two more collars had failed, the glue simply gave up under the pressure from the compression fittings. Why? I don't know, and by that point, I didn't (still don't) care to find out.
> I'm a noob at watercooling (this is my third build and my first hardline), and I made mistakes (my first problem was not product-related: one of my bends was off by a couple mm and I muscled it onto the fitting anyway, so the compression ring cut into the tube and collar!). But none of the situations I described above, or the ultimate failure of the tubing, were my fault: the glue is only good for a year, but there's no expiration date on the bottle; old (acrylic) collars were defective, but remained in stock, and were included with my brand-new fittings -- btw Geno's recommended way to tell the good ones from the bad ones is to test them to destruction; the glue must be cured a certain way, but there are no instructions anywhere saying so.
> I experienced several different ways the collars can fail, none of which could have been prevented by more diligence on my part, because the problems were undocumented. It felt like I was on a joke show with this stupid build, I posted back in this thread that the Free Center fittings are too complicated, and have too many modes of failure, and I stand by my opinion. Maybe more experienced builders than myself would not have experienced the nightmare I did, but the fact that every single failure happened after the leak had passed an air test (30 min at 5 psi) and had been running leak-free for a few hours means, at least to me, that apart from any problems with the user, there are problems with the product.
> I prefer to use components that adhere to the KISS principle. Watercooling is complex enough and hazardous enough that we should be looking for ways to reduce and manage risk, not to increase it.
> I have no problems with Monsoon as a brand. I love their flex fittings and lightports, the measuring, bending, and cutting kits are awesome, the MMRS is a really exciting concept, and Geno is always ready to stand by his products and to help his customers. This thread is proof that Monsoon is head and shoulders above the competition, and I will continue to use their products every chance I get. That said, I do have a problem with the godawful free center compression system, it sucks!


Sorry to read about your problems with the rigid tubing/collars and the death of you MB. I have used them on my build too and had no problems with them. I'm even more noob than you when it comes to watercooling, i've only build one system so far about 14-15 month ago and it still runs fine. I also used monsoon tubing(clear) and their acrylic collars(I don't think one could get collers made from pc at that time which i bought it) so I hope my glue and collars will not spring a leak(fingers crossed) Anyway I'm glad you made your system work even if it was made with bitspower fittings.
I was going to use bitspower as well until I saw monsoon chaingun, then I knew "I was in love with them at first sight"







I do however have some bitspower as I needed 2 walves and 2 fillports, one for each loop at the end of my draining point, and apparently monsoon only made 45 and 90 degree fittings when I bought mine, not even extension fittings was something I could find in the monsoon productline.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Dig em out of the trash man. Just might have been a bad batch and if you had done some due diligence on solving the issue instead of anger you might have helped us all. We are a small community that spend more on our hobbies than any other type of gamer or programmer put together. Lets work together and help our suppliers figure out what goes wrong so they can take action to help someone else in the future. Just plain common courtesy if you ask me. Sounds like you threw away more parts than a motherboard would cost. I just cannot fathom a hardline fitting cracking, but I've seen some other **** happen that I though would never happen either. When I first saw the wrench included in the kit I though that monsoon had a whole lot of confidence in their fittings. That wrench is too long making torque an issue. I think it needs to be about half as long so you're bleeding before you'll crack a fitting. Also, cuts have to be perfect imho so the collar and PETG are perfectly flush on the bottom. I plan on sanding both the cured collar and the petg flat before insertion. Man, I would love to have seen some pics of a cracked hardline compression fitting. It would be a first for me. I went back and read your long post more carefully and I can say from experience that true ACRYLIC tubing should not be used in a computer. Wife leaned over a 900D of mine to dust and busted half the tubing at the fittings in the case. I chunked the acrylic, not the fittings though. Guess I was lucky that she did it on such a grand scale because the fluid poured out like pouring piss out of a boot. Just lost the top video card after baking everything.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Can't really understand the use of that tool. The monsoon kit comes with a jig and a hack saw that makes perfect cuts.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> So, with the coupler, one could do a dual loop with a long tube res split into two parts with different color fluids?


Yes--as many separate segments as you want, (or your case can fit). There are actually two different connecting rings in the mating kit. One lets you divide the two segments, the other lets you keep them open. Builders choice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Thank you sir. I will wait on the build for this. I even think I will ditch the 150ml ek res' for your products just because you cared enough to answer my post. I will go with chain gun mission criticals also. Once again, thank you sir for listening to a customer. You're doing it right. David Ledbetter, US Army, retired.


Thanks for the kind words and good luck with the build =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DaClownie*
> 
> I know this must sound like a dumb question... but how do I open the bottle of UV glue for the lock collars? Most bottles of that style have a pin in the cap to puncture, but this does not. I'd hate to open this incorrectly and make it so I can't use the little blue applicators.
> 
> I have everything cut, measured, and ready to go... last step is these collars and then compression time.
> 
> I just cut the tip down to the second notch and then screw the blue tip into the new larger opening?


Yup. I use toe nail clippers I keep on my bench for cutting zip ties but any cutting implement will work. Remember to work inside, away from any exterior windows as even a fairly small amount of UV light can cure the adhesive. The weaker it is the longer it takes but even the GE "Daylight" florescent lights on my work bench will slightly cure the glue in the glue tip in about 20 or 30 minutes.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Nice build sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though I wonder where did you hide the res ??
> 
> @boxgods I've been searching thrugh all monsoon products at ppcs but cannot seem to find/locate the ccfl lighting tubes to install inside the res' ? Are they not yet on the market or ?
> 
> Malum


These are on the latest price list we sent out to resellers now so you will see them starting to show up over the next 2 to 4 weeks depending on when they order etc.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> A good air test gauge coulda saved you quite a chunk then I would say. Too bad you pitched it all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No offense meant, but imho you likely did something wrong and are chalking it up to the brand rather than taking the time to figure out what exactly went wrong and where exactly it happened. It's your wallet, but a real waste imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


As always I am happy to work with any customer having an issue to track down what is not working. We try to make everything as simple as we possibly can but end of the day none of these are what would be considered "mainstream" products because there are just so many variables. I too am very sorry that this was the outcome.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene i was setting my new res up to test and i found one of the joining studs for the Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube Coupler was .27mm smaller in diameter than the rest.I just cut off the head from one of the bolts that i didnt need and it seems nice and tight.I thought at first i stripped it but when i replaced it with the bolt no issues.
> 
> I tried it on all the other rods and it did the same thing. No idea whats up with it and it dose not seem to be stripped.
> 
> I dont need it replaced since i used the bolt but wanted to give you a heads up


I intentionally specified a slightly softer grade of stainless on the set screws and Tension Rod screws so that if there is ever too much tightening force applied the screws will pop rather than the tension rods--basic economics as the screws cost a lot less than the Tension Rods and are cheaper to replace. I am not saying you stripped it as it is obviously possible the screw company had an odd ball in there, just that typically when one has popped you see a decrease in the OD as it tends to roll the peaks of the threads over a bit.

Either way thanks for the heads up and I am glad you were able to improvise a fix on the spot...delays suck when you are so close to being done.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

I need two things and I'll be under way. I need EK to build my block for the Gigabyte 980ti Xtremes and a divided for the MMRS system and then about 3 months to build. This one will end up on Google. hehe.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Dig em out of the trash man. Just might have been a bad batch and if you had done some due diligence on solving the issue instead of anger you might have helped us all. We are a small community that spend more on our hobbies than any other type of gamer or programmer put together. Lets work together and help our suppliers figure out what goes wrong so they can take action to help someone else in the future. Just plain common courtesy if you ask me. Sounds like you threw away more parts than a motherboard would cost. I just cannot fathom a hardline fitting cracking, but I've seen some other **** happen that I though would never happen either. When I first saw the wrench included in the kit I though that monsoon had a whole lot of confidence in their fittings. That wrench is too long making torque an issue. I think it needs to be about half as long so you're bleeding before you'll crack a fitting. Also, cuts have to be perfect imho so the collar and PETG are perfectly flush on the bottom. I plan on sanding both the cured collar and the petg flat before insertion. Man, I would love to have seen some pics of a cracked hardline compression fitting. It would be a first for me. I went back and read your long post more carefully and I can say from experience that true ACRYLIC tubing should not be used in a computer. Wife leaned over a 900D of mine to dust and busted half the tubing at the fittings in the case. I chunked the acrylic, not the fittings though. Guess I was lucky that she did it on such a grand scale because the fluid poured out like pouring piss out of a boot. Just lost the top video card after baking everything.


Just search for my posts further back in this thread


----------



## BoxGods

I got test samples for the 140mm rad mount in today and I think thy look pretty cool. I will try to get some pictures for you guys in the next few days.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I got test samples for the 140mm rad mount in today and I think thy look pretty cool. I will try to get some pictures for you guys in the next few days.


talk about a tease


----------



## BoxGods

Sorry...just keeping everyone as informed as I can.

Forgot to mention I also got the extender / spacer rings in for the motor tube.


----------



## fast_fate

happy days, all's good


----------



## BoxGods

Question for you guys on the new CCFL inverters. Should I mess with making them in our Monsoon colors to match everything else? Or just stick with black anodizing because they are usually tucked away and hidden?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Question for you guys on the new CCFL inverters. Should I mess with making them in our Monsoon colors to match everything else? Or just stick with black anodizing because they are usually tucked away and hidden?


white as an option is one to consider, to go with the new white caps
other colors not so much in my opinion


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Question for you guys on the new CCFL inverters. Should I mess with making them in our Monsoon colors to match everything else? Or just stick with black anodizing because they are usually tucked away and hidden?


I would say stick with black. The only other color that might be popular is white, to match white cases but even then, black is still easy enough to hide.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Question for you guys on the new CCFL inverters. Should I mess with making them in our Monsoon colors to match everything else? Or just stick with black anodizing because they are usually tucked away and hidden?


It should always be hidden so I think only black is fine.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sorry...just keeping everyone as informed as I can.
> 
> Forgot to mention I also got the extender / spacer rings in for the motor tube.


I'll buy a couple of spacers today. EK should have the waterblocks done this week and I'll be set.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It should always be hidden so I think only black is fine.


If black is sooner, black it is. We can always upgrade later.


----------



## BoxGods

OK black it is =)

I must be the only OCD guy who likes everything to match lol.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> OK black it is =)
> 
> I must be the only OCD guy who likes everything to match lol.


Do you really want us to get you to make these in all matching colors? Something something pandora's box.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Question for you guys on the new CCFL inverters. Should I mess with making them in our Monsoon colors to match everything else? Or just stick with black anodizing because they are usually tucked away and hidden?


I would simply do the most popular colors

White
Black
Red
Green
Chrome
Black Chrome

And leave it at that. I know that you will likely have someone pop in asking why only those colors but it's not like they cannot choose a contrast color from these colors to compliment their build.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

I know I know...

Maybe the start with black and add other colors down the road idea is the way to go.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I know I know...
> 
> Maybe the start with black and add other colors down the road idea is the way to go.


The problem is that some people wish to stand out(yours truly, for one) and having an ultra cool Monsoon inverter would definitely stand out.

I'm not sure what your manufacturing minimums are but I would do 2 colors bulk @ 100 (or 1000?) and then see if the company can allow for smaller batches to compile that minimum in other colors. This way you and your vendors aren't stuck with unused colors on the shelf for a loss. Ideally you shouldn't have too much trouble in this regard, maybe they would want you to get more of the Black and the White to accomplish this but it should be doable.









~Ceadder


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Question for you guys on the new CCFL inverters. Should I mess with making them in our Monsoon colors to match everything else? Or just stick with black anodizing because they are usually tucked away and hidden?
> 
> 
> 
> white as an option is one to consider, to go with the new white caps
> other colors not so much in my opinion
Click to expand...

^^^ This


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> white as an option is one to consider, to go with the new white caps
> other colors not so much in my opinion


I second this black and white should be enough imo


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Bo
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The recently finished mating kit has a divider that will let you mate two couplers (or TRP or End Caps) together with either an open or closed connection--that should work as the divider you mentioned.
> 
> One of the posters on this thread is actually working on a configurator and there are now sketch up models of all the parts (including the mating kits) that you can use to tinker with different configurations and installations in different cases. You can download them here: http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar
> 
> As for that specific configuration you posted, that is a custom configuration assembled by Performance PC's.
> 
> Hope that helps =)


Could you post up as soon as the dividers are available. I need them yesterday. I'd be great if you'd shoot me an email if you can. Thanks, David.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> OK black it is =)
> 
> I must be the only OCD guy who likes everything to match lol.


That's what they make pain for. hehe.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> OK black it is =)
> 
> I must be the only OCD guy who likes everything to match lol.


We just don't see how there would be a good profit margin in doing this for you.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *SolarNova*
> 
> Nice.
> 
> Think I may end up using 2 of this for my next build.
> 
> Though, I don't see a vertical mount that mounts from the bottom/underneath when the res is vertical.
> 
> @Monsoon, did u not think of that kind of mounting situation ?
> 
> How would u mount the vertical Res(with no pump) in the following Design.??
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Design
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The vertical mounts are done and will be shipping out early January.
Click to expand...

Did these ever ship out? I can't find them on ppcs and I'm ready to build a system for a friend but it needs this vertical mount to work.


----------



## BoxGods

Performance PC's has already placed an order for the vertical mounts, mating kits, CCFL plugs, and white parts and they will be shipping out in the next week or so hopefully. I can't say for sure how long it will take but figure by the last week of this month depending on ship time etc.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance PC's has already placed an order for the vertical mounts, mating kits, CCFL plugs, and white parts and they will be shipping out in the next week or so hopefully. I can't say for sure how long it will take but figure by the last week of this month depending on ship time etc.


Awesome! I'm waiting for them to get more res caps before I can build so hopefully they get everything at the same time and I can add ccfl plugs for my rig too.


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance PC's has already placed an order for the vertical mounts, mating kits, CCFL plugs, and white parts and they will be shipping out in the next week or so hopefully. I can't say for sure how long it will take but figure by the last week of this month depending on ship time etc.


Awsome just hope they are not sold out before I get to order two of those ccfl's myself







. Any news on your inverter for them ?


----------



## paultoke

Monsoon MMRS in my new build


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> Monsoon MMRS in my new build
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome Looks so good!!!


----------



## BoxGods

@ paultoke.

OH
MY
GOD!

Amazing job


----------



## Ceadderman

Indeed!









~Ceadder


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Awesome Looks so good!!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> @ paultoke.
> 
> OH
> MY
> GOD!
> 
> Amazing job


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Indeed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks guys I look forward to using them in my next project :thumb:t


----------



## Don Key Sho

Hello al!l im back with my SECOND watercooling build. hope you enjoy!







Love monsoon products!


----------



## BoxGods

Another amazing build. I wish I had more time


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Another amazing build. I wish I had more time


and money!!!!


----------



## Deedaz

These black chrome fittings are going to look sweet in this next build. Decided to go with 3/8 x 1/2 to help hit the budget I was given and make tube routing easier. They feel so tiny compared to the 1/2 x 3/4 I've used for my other builds, I hope they don't seem silly in the x5


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah I almost added a larger size of rigid tube because I was worried that the smaller sizes did not have enough "visual" weight--especially as everyone is used to seeing 1/2 x 3/4 tube for all these years.

The clean bends and tube runs seem to add a lot of pop though so the size difference isn't really noticeable I think.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Anyone happen to know when PPCs is getting new stock in? They are out of all the end caps and couplers that I need.


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> Monsoon MMRS in my new build


What Case is this? Nice

And where can I buy this case?


----------



## BoxGods

Looks like candy in there doesn't it?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Anyone happen to know when PPCs is getting new stock in? They are out of all the end caps and couplers that I need.


I will have to double check but I believe they have a shipment on the way so a week or less.

***EDIT***

Looks like depending on ship time and customs etc. they (PPCS) should have stock by Thursday or Friday--March 24th or 25th--and has another order going out on the 28th so it will be there around April 1st or 2nd.


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> What Case is this? Nice
> 
> And where can I buy this case?


Its a Parvum L1.0

http://www.parvumsystems.com/


----------



## jincuteguy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> Its a Parvum L1.0
> 
> http://www.parvumsystems.com/


There's no other store that sell it in the USA?


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> There's no other store that sell it in the USA?


they are custom built...very nice though


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jincuteguy*
> 
> There's no other store that sell it in the USA?


Performance PC only stock the S2.0 at the moment but Parvum ship to the USA









You can pm them here on the forum Imersa


----------



## Methodical

Question for Mr. Monsoon. I'm considering installing the Caselable double wide reservoir plate along with the MMRS 250mm reservoir. The plate has a 240mm mounting area, but what I don't know is the measurement where the actual mount brackets would fall when installed on the MMRS end caps. In other words does the reservoir tube sit recessed in the end caps and therefore the mounts would fall say within this 240mm range or does the end cap make the total length of the reservoir taller; for example a 250mm reservoir becomes 260mm with the end caps? Also, how thick is that small mounting plate with MMRS on it. This pieced of data would be greatly appreciated. I'm waiting to here back from Caselab with regards to how much space is between the case and plate, so if it's smaller than the thickness of that small back plate, this will all be moot.

Another question. Does the mounting kit come with a mounting template?

Thanks...Al


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Question for Mr. Monsoon. I'm considering installing the Caselable double wide reservoir plate along with the MMRS 250mm reservoir. The plate has a 240mm mounting area, but what I don't know is the measurement where the actual mount brackets would fall when installed on the MMRS end caps. In other words does the reservoir tube sit recessed in the end caps and therefore the mounts would fall say within this 240mm range or does the end cap make the total length of the reservoir taller; for example a 250mm reservoir becomes 260mm with the end caps? Also, how thick is that small mounting plate with MMRS on it. This pieced of data would be greatly appreciated. I'm waiting to here back from Caselab with regards to how much space is between the case and plate, so if it's smaller than the thickness of that small back plate, this will all be moot.
> 
> Another question. Does the mounting kit come with a mounting template?
> 
> Thanks...Al


This kit will make it fit...



http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-12mm-stand-alone-pump-mount-matte-black.html

One kit at each end will narrow the mounting space necessary.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Question for Mr. Monsoon. I'm considering installing the Caselable double wide reservoir plate along with the MMRS 250mm reservoir. The plate has a 240mm mounting area, but what I don't know is the measurement where the actual mount brackets would fall when installed on the MMRS end caps. In other words does the reservoir tube sit recessed in the end caps and therefore the mounts would fall say within this 240mm range or does the end cap make the total length of the reservoir taller; for example a 250mm reservoir becomes 260mm with the end caps? *Also, how thick is that small mounting plate with MMRS on it. This pieced of data would be greatly appreciated.* I'm waiting to here back from Caselab with regards to how much space is between the case and plate, so if it's smaller than the thickness of that small back plate, this will all be moot.
> 
> Another question. Does the mounting kit come with a mounting template?
> 
> Thanks...Al


MMRS Mounting Plate Spreader Bars are 6.1mm thick.
You may have to pack out the CL Res Mounting Plate with spacers on each screw between the Plate and mid-panel.

I believe the following is correct in regards to MMRS lengths.....

The length of reservoir tube refers to the tube section which is visible between the end caps.
Actual tube length is about 8.5mm longer which ~4mm going into each end cap.
for example I just measured a 100mm tube and it has a length of 108.5mm.

The EC-3P i just measured is 28.5mm mm thick (without stop plugs) - (other caps vary in thickness)

so.... 2 x 28.5 + 100 = 157mm total length (no fittings or plugs) for a "100mm reservoir" using 2 x EC-3P caps

Put more simply, add thickness of your chosen end caps to the tube length for overall height.


*EDIT:* Maybe I should think of it the other way








A 150mm assembled res has a 100mm long exposed tube section.
Now I'm just as confused









*EDIT 2:* I knew I had seen the info somewhere
From the horses mouth


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> MMRS Mounting Plate Spreader Bars are 6.1mm thick.
> You may have to pack out the CL Res Mounting Plate with spacers on each screw between the Plate and mid-panel.
> 
> I believe the following is correct in regards to MMRS lengths.....
> 
> The length of reservoir tube refers to the tube section which is visible between the end caps.
> Actual tube length is about 8.5mm longer which ~4mm going into each end cap.
> for example I just measured a 100mm tube and it has a length of 108.5mm.
> 
> The EC-3P i just measured is 28.5mm mm thick (without stop plugs) - (other caps vary in thickness)
> 
> so.... 2 x 28.5 + 100 = 157mm total length (no fittings or plugs) for a "100mm reservoir" using 2 x EC-3P caps
> 
> Put more simply, add thickness of your chosen end caps to the tube length for overall height.
> 
> 
> *EDIT:* Maybe I should think of it the other way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A 150mm assembled res has a 100mm long exposed tube section.
> Now I'm just as confused
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *EDIT 2:* I knew I had seen the info somewhere
> From the horses mouth


Ohh man thanks a ton for this info.

Al


----------



## BoxGods

The easiest way to think of it is that tube lengths are nominal. As an example, the extra 8.5 mm in tube length recesses into the end caps and/or any couplers. So any called out tube length is actually that tube length plus 8.5mm but the extra 8.5mm is absorbed by end caps--so the 100mm tube is actually 108.5mm long but really just adds 100mm to the reservoir length.

So to figure out the length of the configuration you want find the dimensions of all the end caps and any coupler/s (if you are using any) on the chart. Add those together, then add the nominal length of your tube segments.

MMRS-SP-1P (29mm) + 100mm tube + coupler (24mm) + 100mm tube + MMRS-EC-3P (29mm) = 282mm total reservoir length.

You can also use the Sketchup models (download link below) to try different configurations in your case in 3D space =)

http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The easiest way to think of it is that tube lengths are nominal. As an example, the extra 8.5 mm in tube length recesses into the end caps and/or any couplers. So any called out tube length is actually that tube length plus 8.5mm but the extra 8.5mm is absorbed by end caps--so the 100mm tube is actually 108.5mm long but really just adds 100mm to the reservoir length.
> 
> So to figure out the length of the configuration you want find the dimensions of all the end caps and any coupler/s (if you are using any) on the chart. Add those together, then add the nominal length of your tube segments.
> 
> MMRS-SP-1P (29mm) + 100mm tube + coupler (24mm) + 100mm tube + MMRS-EC-3P (29mm) = 282mm total reservoir length.
> 
> You can also use the Sketchup models (download link below) to try different configurations in your case in 3D space =)
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar


I got a few errors when unRARing.
*EDIT:* Suspect 99.9% of files are OK though

Thanks for linking the file









! C:\Users\xxx\Downloads\MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar: CRC failed in MMRS_SU_PARTS\MMRS-TR-XXX-XX\MMRS-TR-100-XX\MMRS-TR-100-CH.skp. The file is corrupt
! C:\Users\xxx\Downloads\MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar: Unexpected end of archive


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The easiest way to think of it is that tube lengths are nominal. As an example, the extra 8.5 mm in tube length recesses into the end caps and/or any couplers. So any called out tube length is actually that tube length plus 8.5mm but the extra 8.5mm is absorbed by end caps--so the 100mm tube is actually 108.5mm long but really just adds 100mm to the reservoir length.
> 
> So to figure out the length of the configuration you want find the dimensions of all the end caps and any coupler/s (if you are using any) on the chart. Add those together, then add the nominal length of your tube segments.
> 
> MMRS-SP-1P (29mm) + 100mm tube + coupler (24mm) + 100mm tube + MMRS-EC-3P (29mm) = 282mm total reservoir length.
> 
> You can also use the Sketchup models (download link below) to try different configurations in your case in 3D space =)
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar
> 
> 
> 
> I got a few errors when unRARing.
> *EDIT:* Suspect 99.9% of files are OK though
> 
> Thanks for linking the file
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! C:\Users\xxx\Downloads\MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar: CRC failed in MMRS_SU_PARTS\MMRS-TR-XXX-XX\MMRS-TR-100-XX\MMRS-TR-100-CH.skp. The file is corrupt
> ! C:\Users\xxx\Downloads\MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar: Unexpected end of archive
Click to expand...

I got this too when I first downloaded it but was still able to extract it and doesn't seem to be any corrupt files inside.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The easiest way to think of it is that tube lengths are nominal. As an example, the extra 8.5 mm in tube length recesses into the end caps and/or any couplers. So any called out tube length is actually that tube length plus 8.5mm but the extra 8.5mm is absorbed by end caps--so the 100mm tube is actually 108.5mm long but really just adds 100mm to the reservoir length.
> 
> So to figure out the length of the configuration you want find the dimensions of all the end caps and any coupler/s (if you are using any) on the chart. Add those together, then add the nominal length of your tube segments.
> 
> MMRS-SP-1P (29mm) + 100mm tube + coupler (24mm) + 100mm tube + MMRS-EC-3P (29mm) = 282mm total reservoir length.
> 
> You can also use the Sketchup models (download link below) to try different configurations in your case in 3D space =)
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar


Thanks for the info.

As far as the rar file, I get error messages.

Also, does the mounting brackets include a mounting template for the standard size reservoir tubes? (i.e. 50-300mm tubes)


----------



## eucalyptus

How is the glue and acrylic tubing doing when the water gets really really warm? When should I be worried? Thanks.


----------



## Deedaz

This is going to be a sweet build! I wish the ppcs order had arrived today like it was scheduled to...hopefully it shows up tomorrow so I can get started on waterblocks and res placement measurements.


----------



## Methodical

Does anyone have a photo of the Clear Frosted tube with the black end caps and matte black tension rods?

Thanks

Note: edited to include the work "Clear"


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Does anyone have a photo of the Frosted tube with the black end caps and matte black tension rods?
> 
> Thanks


Yep. See this post.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Yep. See this post.


Thanks. I left out one important word - :Clear" Frosted. I edited my original post, sorry. I am looking for a photo of the Clear Frost tube with black end caps and tension rods.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The easiest way to think of it is that tube lengths are nominal. As an example, the extra 8.5 mm in tube length recesses into the end caps and/or any couplers. So any called out tube length is actually that tube length plus 8.5mm but the extra 8.5mm is absorbed by end caps--so the 100mm tube is actually 108.5mm long but really just adds 100mm to the reservoir length.
> 
> So to figure out the length of the configuration you want find the dimensions of all the end caps and any coupler/s (if you are using any) on the chart. Add those together, then add the nominal length of your tube segments.
> 
> MMRS-SP-1P (29mm) + 100mm tube + coupler (24mm) + 100mm tube + MMRS-EC-3P (29mm) = 282mm total reservoir length.
> 
> You can also use the Sketchup models (download link below) to try different configurations in your case in 3D space =)
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar


I got 2 errors and it stops at 99% (see photo). Is there a fix for this?

Thanks


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Yep. See this post.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. I left out one important word - :Clear" Frosted. I edited my original post, sorry. I am looking for a photo of the Clear Frost tube with black end caps and tension rods.
Click to expand...

I have THIS res tube and black chrome tension rods coming tomorrow. No caps since they were out of stock and I wanted to use the sale code. I'll post pics for you when they get here.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I have THIS res tube and black chrome tension rods coming tomorrow. No caps since they were out of stock and I wanted to use the sale code. I'll post pics for you when they get here.


I've been looking at that style tube also. I'm just trying to decide if I should go with an all Black tube or frosted white tube with black caps and rods.

thanks


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I have THIS res tube and black chrome tension rods coming tomorrow. No caps since they were out of stock and I wanted to use the sale code. I'll post pics for you when they get here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been looking at that style tube also. I'm just trying to decide if I should go with an all Black tube or frosted white tube with black caps and rods.
> 
> thanks
Click to expand...

Get both and swap them out every so often.







Gives you an excuse to tinker/upgrade.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I have THIS res tube and black chrome tension rods coming tomorrow. No caps since they were out of stock and I wanted to use the sale code. I'll post pics for you when they get here.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been looking at that style tube also. I'm just trying to decide if I should go with an all Black tube or frosted white tube with black caps and rods.
> 
> thanks
Click to expand...

It doesn't make much sense to me what your trying to decide... If you want to see the coolant then go with the frosted clear tube, if you don't and want all black then go with the black tube.


----------



## BoxGods

On Temps. For acrylic (PMMA) the transition temp is around 105 C (220 F) and the adhesive is rated to at least that.

On templates for the mounts. The 12mm low profile (Grass Hopper) mount does come with a template. The regular 26mm wide mounts, (heights at 12mm, 25mm, and 50mm) do not as it is pretty straight forward to measure the distance between these and there is really no way we could have a template for all the hundreds of possible configurations.

On the Sketchup MMRS parts files. I used WinRar to create the file and it is stored on our servers so I am 99% sure the file is safe provided you download it directly from the link.


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Does anyone have a photo of the Clear Frosted tube with the black end caps and matte black tension rods?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Note: edited to include the work "Clear"


Like these?

http://i.imgur.com/POCEUkJ.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8LiC8Yd.jpg

I was playing around with some configurations just last weekend, but decided on something slightly different than what you see in the images (and am still waiting to order the parts). I will also mention that, if you are going with the frosted tubes you should be very careful with the frosted coating on them, as it's very easy to scrape it off even if you're careful (you can see marks on it in one of the images). That, and you may want to wear gloves while touching the tube because the "frosting," if you will, picks up all the dirt and oil from your fingers (even after you've washed your hands) and doesn't seem to come off afterwards.

I really do like that these reservoirs are modular because it leads to numerous types of styles and configurations, but they can become pricey if you can't figure out the right combination of parts/colors on your first try, as most places aren't going to let you return opened water-cooling parts.


----------



## Grambokaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> I will also mention that, if you are going with the frosted tubes you should *be very careful with the frosted coating* on them, as it's very easy to scrape it off even if you're careful (you can see marks on it in one of the images). That, and you may want to wear gloves while touching the tube because the "frosting," if you will, *picks up all the dirt and oil from your fingers* (even after you've washed your hands) and *doesn't seem to come off* afterwards.


Glad I'm not the only one that had this happen.









I was going to use the frosted tubes until I got a thumbprint on one from the lubricant still on the nylon caps after opening all my pieces. My OCD lead me to scrub and scrub and rinse and wash until I eventually destroyed the coating trying to get that print off. I switched to clear tubes since I don't trust myself enough to have the frosted tubes in my system and not accidentally get more prints on them (that I can't remove). I may revisit the idea of the frosted tube someday (since I thought they looked really nice) and just remember to be very careful around them.

I wonder if it would be possible to coat them with something that would preserver the "frosted" look but protect them from prints/spills.







Some experimentation may be in order.


----------



## ciarlatano

Just as a happy accident, this combination is one of the (very) few reservoirs that will bolt into the Evolv ATX/Pro M chassis using the existing holes only, and be absolutely properly placed. This wasn't planned at all, and I was really surprised that I never had to use the drill.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Does anyone have a photo of the Clear Frosted tube with the black end caps and matte black tension rods?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Note: edited to include the work "Clear"


I do as well


----------



## doyll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Just as a happy accident, this combination is one of the (very) few reservoirs that will bolt into the Evolv ATX/Pro M chassis using the existing holes only, and be absolutely properly placed. This wasn't planned at all, and I was really surprised that I never had to use the drill.


That looks amazing!








Can't wait to see it finished.
even though it will be soft tubed


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> It doesn't make much sense to me what your trying to decide... If you want to see the coolant then go with the frosted clear tube, if you don't and want all black then go with the black tube.


What make sense to one doesn't make sense to another. I have a scheme and installation concerns and it's not as simple do I want to see the fluid or not (see post 1924).


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doyll*
> 
> That looks amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't wait to see it finished.
> even though it will be soft tubed


Well, it won't be _finished_ until Pascal gets released.

Soft tube all the way. The routing is totally clean and I can change components/TIM/etc without it being a total fiasco.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> On Temps. For acrylic (PMMA) the transition temp is around 105 C (220 F) and the adhesive is rated to at least that.
> 
> On templates for the mounts. The 12mm low profile (Grass Hopper) mount does come with a template. The regular 26mm wide mounts, (heights at 12mm, 25mm, and 50mm) do not as it is pretty straight forward to measure the distance between these and there is really no way we could have a template for all the hundreds of possible configurations.
> 
> On the Sketchup MMRS parts files. I used WinRar to create the file and it is stored on our servers so I am 99% sure the file is safe provided you download it directly from the link.


I am glade u saying that Gene







So if my water temperature reaches 50 degrees Celcius, that shouldn't be a problem?









Though the whole loop gets very warm, that's why I am a bit scared


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> Like these?
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/POCEUkJ.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/8LiC8Yd.jpg
> 
> I was playing around with some configurations just last weekend, but decided on something slightly different than what you see in the images (and am still waiting to order the parts). I will also mention that, if you are going with the frosted tubes you should be very careful with the frosted coating on them, as it's very easy to scrape it off even if you're careful (you can see marks on it in one of the images). That, and you may want to wear gloves while touching the tube because the "frosting," if you will, picks up all the dirt and oil from your fingers (even after you've washed your hands) and doesn't seem to come off afterwards.
> 
> I really do like that these reservoirs are modular because it leads to numerous types of styles and configurations, but they can become pricey if you can't figure out the right combination of parts/colors on your first try, as most places aren't going to let you return opened water-cooling parts.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I do as well


Thank you, thank you. I am a visual type person and these photos help a lot. I like the look of both and they give me some good ideas.

I want to do an all Black scheme (tubes and reservoir), but the concern I have with an all Black reservoir is I won't be able to see if the fluid level is correct. Mystriss, I know you gave me some info about the Aquacomptuer fill level unit and I am still thinking on it (want to keep the install as simple as possible though). I've been debating that if I use the Black reservoir whether to have a fill port (just using the standard port and running a hard tube to the top chamber) in the top chamber, so that I can look into the reservoir to see the water levels (more so for initially priming the system to keep the pump wet). Another option is to install a clear tube in between 2 Black tubes, but I don't like that look. Another option is to use Mayhems Black fluid, but I used that in my current build and the Black turned a bit Brown (not the pure Black I was hoping for - a ph issue I assume) so it's seems hard to keep the fluid Black. So that's why I started checking out the frosted tubes. I figured that I may be able to use the Mayhems Black fluid and if it turned colors a bit, the frost would somewhat hide it. I I could get the pure Black fluid to work, my problems would be solved; I'd go with clear or the frosted tube. So, for me it's not a simple "do I want to see fluid or not" issue.

Mystriss, is that the new pump cover for the D5 aquabus/usb pump? I recall you discussing this some pages back.

Thanks again for the photos, they helped tremendously...Al


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grambokaa*
> 
> Glad I'm not the only one that had this happen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use the frosted tubes until I got a thumbprint on one from the lubricant still on the nylon caps after opening all my pieces. My OCD lead me to scrub and scrub and rinse and wash until I eventually destroyed the coating trying to get that print off. I switched to clear tubes since I don't trust myself enough to have the frosted tubes in my system and not accidentally get more prints on them (that I can't remove). I may revisit the idea of the frosted tube someday (since I thought they looked really nice) and just remember to be very careful around them.
> 
> I wonder if it would be possible to coat them with something that would preserver the "frosted" look but protect them from prints/spills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some experimentation may be in order.


Although the frosted tube can't be man handled I have not really found it all that delicate. If you get oil or some other liquid on the frosting it doesn't really "remove it" but rather fills it in. The frosting is not a coating that is sprayed on--the surface of the tube has been etched. If the etching was on the inside of the tube it would become crystal clear when filled with water.

When you get oil on it those spots tend to become more clear and less etched and can present as "marks". I have gotten those oil marks all over a tube and thought it was ruined but using warm/slightly hot tap water at the sink with dish soap will almost always remove the oil and the mark. I turn the water on and set it to about as hot as is comfortable to my hands, then wash my hands well with soap. Then apply about a table spoon of soap spread over the tube and use my hands to really rub the soap all over the tube. Do not use a rag or dish washing pad--just your soapy hands. Spend about a minute or two rubbing the soap all over the outside of the tube. Then I let it sit for a few minutes while I rinse my hands. Then thoroughly rinse all of the soap off the tube and set it on a clean soft rag/towel to air dry.

This will not work for scratches obviously but it does work really well for any type of oil marks/smudges.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am glade u saying that Gene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So if my water temperature reaches 50 degrees Celcius, that shouldn't be a problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Though the whole loop gets very warm, that's why I am a bit scared


Well keep in mind that a CPU putting out 50 C of heat (just using a random number for the point) would have a hard time heating the entire loop to 50 C. It might be able to do it over a long period of time--many hours--but even then it is not likely as that would assume 100% efficiency and no energy transfer is, (entropy maybe?)


----------



## BoxGods

If you use a black tube and mate that to an FDP end cap (assuming a vertical installation) it really is not that hard to make sure the system is topped off. Just use the FDP port which is the highest point in the reservoir and fill it till the fluid is right at the port. Run the system for a while and top off as needed till you have bled off all the air. You will want to check every once in a while of course but that is no big dealjust remove the plug and have a look--takes about 30 seconds.

You might even be able to use a clear plug in the FDP as a sort of "sight glass".


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> Like these?
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/POCEUkJ.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/8LiC8Yd.jpg
> 
> I was playing around with some configurations just last weekend, but decided on something slightly different than what you see in the images (and am still waiting to order the parts). I will also mention that, if you are going with the frosted tubes you should be very careful with the frosted coating on them, as it's very easy to scrape it off even if you're careful (you can see marks on it in one of the images). That, and you may want to wear gloves while touching the tube because the "frosting," if you will, picks up all the dirt and oil from your fingers (even after you've washed your hands) and doesn't seem to come off afterwards.
> 
> I really do like that these reservoirs are modular because it leads to numerous types of styles and configurations, but they can become pricey if you can't figure out the right combination of parts/colors on your first try, as most places aren't going to let you return opened water-cooling parts.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I do as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you, thank you. I am a visual type person and these photos help a lot. I like the look of both and they give me some good ideas.
> 
> I want to do an all Black scheme (tubes and reservoir), but the concern I have with an all Black reservoir is I won't be able to see if the fluid level is correct. Mystriss, I know you gave me some info about the Aquacomptuer fill level unit and I am still thinking on it (want to keep the install as simple as possible though). I've been debating that if I use the Black reservoir whether to have a fill port (just using the standard port and running a hard tube to the top chamber) in the top chamber, so that I can look into the reservoir to see the water levels (more so for initially priming the system to keep the pump wet). Another option is to install a clear tube in between 2 Black tubes, but I don't like that look. Another option is to use Mayhems Black fluid, but I used that in my current build and the Black turned a bit Brown (not the pure Black I was hoping for - a ph issue I assume) so it's seems hard to keep the fluid Black. So that's why I started checking out the frosted tubes. I figured that I may be able to use the Mayhems Black fluid and if it turned colors a bit, the frost would somewhat hide it. I I could get the pure Black fluid to work, my problems would be solved; I'd go with clear or the frosted tube. So, for me it's not a simple "do I want to see fluid or not" issue.
> 
> Mystriss, is that the new pump cover for the D5 aquabus/usb pump? I recall you discussing this some pages back.
> 
> Thanks again for the photos, they helped tremendously...Al
Click to expand...

Did you use the blitz pro kit before using the black fluid? That should be all the prep needed to maintain the color.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Grambokaa*
> 
> Glad I'm not the only one that had this happen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to use the frosted tubes until I got a thumbprint on one from the lubricant still on the nylon caps after opening all my pieces. My OCD lead me to scrub and scrub and rinse and wash until I eventually destroyed the coating trying to get that print off. I switched to clear tubes since I don't trust myself enough to have the frosted tubes in my system and not accidentally get more prints on them (that I can't remove). I may revisit the idea of the frosted tube someday (since I thought they looked really nice) and just remember to be very careful around them.
> 
> I wonder if it would be possible to coat them with something that would preserver the "frosted" look but protect them from prints/spills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some experimentation may be in order.
> 
> 
> 
> Although the frosted tube can't be man handled I have not really found it all that delicate. If you get oil or some other liquid on the frosting it doesn't really "remove it" but rather fills it in. The frosting is not a coating that is sprayed on--the surface of the tube has been etched. If the etching was on the inside of the tube it would become crystal clear when filled with water.
> 
> When you get oil on it those spots tend to become more clear and less etched and can present as "marks". I have gotten those oil marks all over a tube and thought it was ruined but using warm/slightly hot tap water at the sink with dish soap will almost always remove the oil and the mark. I turn the water on and set it to about as hot as is comfortable to my hands, then wash my hands well with soap. Then apply about a table spoon of soap spread over the tube and use my hands to really rub the soap all over the tube. Do not use a rag or dish washing pad--just your soapy hands. Spend about a minute or two rubbing the soap all over the outside of the tube. Then I let it sit for a few minutes while I rinse my hands. Then thoroughly rinse all of the soap off the tube and set it on a clean soft rag/towel to air dry.
> 
> This will not work for scratches obviously but it does work really well for any type of oil marks/smudges.
Click to expand...

I had gotten some smudges on my res too, just ended up hiding that part on the backside. I'll have to give it a good cleaning at some point now that I know it's not ruined.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Patiently waiting on stock. Man, if I had a product that there was such a demand for that it can not bet kept in stock, I don't know which would be bigger, the smile on my face or the boot I have up someones but who mfg's said product. hehe I went this morning, I sort of have a tradition of ordering computer parts on wednesday morning to build my clear tube, white rail, multi-res as I'm calling it. Hehe Not gonna happen today. Maybe next week and it sure would be sweet if EK released my GPU waterblocks from my Xtreme 980tis too. But good things come to those who wait. If I get my blocks I'm driving down to PPCs and padding somebody pocket to take apart some displays to get the parts I need.


----------



## Deedaz

Parts are here!







well....most of them lol





No caps yet, use your imagination


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Better than Christmas aint it. Looks like your rods are too long too.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Better than Christmas aint it. Looks like your rods are too long too.


Nah the tube is just sitting inside the pump cap. I'll post a build log for this shortly.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Man, I'm wanting to get started soooo bad. Might do some plexi glass work this weekend if I feel up to it. My body has took a beating during my life in the Army then owning/operating and fixing heavy equipment. Then I got diagnosed with a neurological disease called cervical dystonia. I live a nightmare of pain. Tinker with pooters is about all I can do now. Most days I cant even do that. Maybe my meds will work and I can get the inside of my case lined with gloss white plexi. I like to put the plexi on 3mm standoffs and some flush so I can lay the parts out so the wires are always hidden. Used to just drill holes but the plexi looks great and gives the appearance that there are no other holes in the rear of the case. I cut it to fit around the radiator up top so those holes don't show either. Thinking about using some mirrors in this build for effect. We'll see how it looks. The monsoon is just going to be for show with red aurora in it ran off of one dedicated pump with not top or res for it to settle. Gonna lay the monsoon flat and do maybe 5 50mm tubes with the ports all turned straight down and fed from one 50mm to the next to keep it from settling. We'll see how it turns out but I've never seen it done before. If I can get the aurora to last two months, which it should the way I'm setting it up for high flow and no dead spots. Service will be a piece of cake because I can just unbolt the res and pump and lift the whole system out in one piece, take it to the sink, plug in a flush hose then blitz clean it, refill it with aurora and set it back in and bolt it down. Aurora should look cool .


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Thank you, thank you. I am a visual type person and these photos help a lot. I like the look of both and they give me some good ideas.
> 
> I want to do an all Black scheme (tubes and reservoir), but the concern I have with an all Black reservoir is I won't be able to see if the fluid level is correct. Mystriss, I know you gave me some info about the Aquacomptuer fill level unit and I am still thinking on it (want to keep the install as simple as possible though). I've been debating that if I use the Black reservoir whether to have a fill port (just using the standard port and running a hard tube to the top chamber) in the top chamber, so that I can look into the reservoir to see the water levels (more so for initially priming the system to keep the pump wet). Another option is to install a clear tube in between 2 Black tubes, but I don't like that look. Another option is to use Mayhems Black fluid, but I used that in my current build and the Black turned a bit Brown (not the pure Black I was hoping for - a ph issue I assume) so it's seems hard to keep the fluid Black. So that's why I started checking out the frosted tubes. I figured that I may be able to use the Mayhems Black fluid and if it turned colors a bit, the frost would somewhat hide it. I I could get the pure Black fluid to work, my problems would be solved; I'd go with clear or the frosted tube. So, for me it's not a simple "do I want to see fluid or not" issue.
> 
> Mystriss, is that the new pump cover for the D5 aquabus/usb pump? I recall you discussing this some pages back.
> 
> Thanks again for the photos, they helped tremendously...Al


That's the stock D5 cover in my picture. It was decided to go with an extension ring for the AQD5 pump seen here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/1790#post_24964858 I think it's wonderful - I believe last I heard the prototype was almost done









I'd originally wanted to do black with chrome rods to match the brushed silver and black theme of my build as well... Perhaps if you have a "hidden" 50mm of space at the top you could do just that section in clear to check your fill level, then do the rest of the res in the opaque black tube? Or if you wanted to get creative, you could do a solid black acrylic cover for the small clear section of the res with a thin slot routed in it to show the level; I think that could look very nice, though I'd not call it "simple" heh Along the same vein, I do wonder if one could route a section of black tube out then fill the slot with clear silicone, after all the pressure isn't too high in the res, though I'd have to do some /serious/ testing before I'd trust it in my rig - and of course it would certainly not be simple at all heh

I've looked into many different level sensors (I can pretty easily hack the signal of any of them to work with the AQ5 or 6 I think), but none I've found thus far would come close to fitting in the 60ish mm of space I have available. If I understand the soon to be released internal MMRS CCFL inserts workings correctly, I may be able to remove the light from that and sense the water level a number of ways within that internal tube. -- I'm currently testing a circuit that senses temperature differences from inside a G1/4" LED plug as a method of testing for water depth (its apparently used for like well reservoir level testing) - however it's very complicated to calibrate though so I'm not sure I can make that work with a [relatively] rapidly circulating res system. Another, I think more promising, design I'm playing with is a narrow field movement sensor - basically if water is flowing around said sensor then the level is good, else its low on water. If I can get that to read reliably then it should be a viable solution for both horizontal and vertical MMRS res'







...I often wish I could clone myself so I could work on /all/ the things in my head at the same time. I tried to con my child into being my clone a while back but he informed me that he likes living his own life and doesn't want anything to do with "mommy's confusing ideas" heh


----------



## Grambokaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Although the frosted tube can't be man handled I have not really found it all that delicate. If you get oil or some other liquid on the frosting it doesn't really "remove it" but rather fills it in. The frosting is not a coating that is sprayed on--the surface of the tube has been etched. If the etching was on the inside of the tube it would become crystal clear when filled with water.
> 
> When you get oil on it those spots tend to become more clear and less etched and can present as "marks". I have gotten those oil marks all over a tube and thought it was ruined but using warm/slightly hot tap water at the sink with dish soap will almost always remove the oil and the mark. I turn the water on and set it to about as hot as is comfortable to my hands, then wash my hands well with soap. Then apply about a table spoon of soap spread over the tube and use my hands to really rub the soap all over the tube. Do not use a rag or dish washing pad--just your soapy hands. Spend about a minute or two rubbing the soap all over the outside of the tube. Then I let it sit for a few minutes while I rinse my hands. Then thoroughly rinse all of the soap off the tube and set it on a clean soft rag/towel to air dry.
> 
> This will not work for scratches obviously but it does work really well for any type of oil marks/smudges.


Can't say I did all of this exactly, but I did start with hot water and dish soap with plenty of scrubbing (with bare hands and sponge) to no avail. I ended up stepping up my cleaner types until I finally used one that was just strong enough to eat at the tube, effectively ruining the etched frosting.

Keep in mind that I was trying to clean off a single print caused by transfer of the lubricant residue left on the caps (which I had trouble cleaning off the caps themselves), all other prints/marks washed right off the frosted tube with ease... just not that pesky lubricant.

Had I washed the caps first before unpacking any other pieces, I'd wouldn't have run into the problem... lesson learned.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> That's the stock D5 cover in my picture. It was decided to go with an extension ring for the AQD5 pump seen here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/1790#post_24964858 I think it's wonderful - I believe last I heard the prototype was almost done
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd originally wanted to do black with chrome rods to match the brushed silver and black theme of my build as well... Perhaps if you have a "hidden" 50mm of space at the top you could do just that section in clear to check your fill level, then do the rest of the res in the opaque black tube? Or if you wanted to get creative, you could do a solid black acrylic cover for the small clear section of the res with a thin slot routed in it to show the level; I think that could look very nice, though I'd not call it "simple" heh Along the same vein, I do wonder if one could route a section of black tube out then fill the slot with clear silicone, after all the pressure isn't too high in the res, though I'd have to do some /serious/ testing before I'd trust it in my rig - and of course it would certainly not be simple at all heh
> 
> I've looked into many different level sensors (I can pretty easily hack the signal of any of them to work with the AQ5 or 6 I think), but none I've found thus far would come close to fitting in the 60ish mm of space I have available. If I understand the soon to be released internal MMRS CCFL inserts workings correctly, I may be able to remove the light from that and sense the water level a number of ways within that internal tube. -- I'm currently testing a circuit that senses temperature differences from inside a G1/4" LED plug as a method of testing for water depth (its apparently used for like well reservoir level testing) - however it's very complicated to calibrate though so I'm not sure I can make that work with a [relatively] rapidly circulating res system. Another, I think more promising, design I'm playing with is a narrow field movement sensor - basically if water is flowing around said sensor then the level is good, else its low on water. If I can get that to read reliably then it should be a viable solution for both horizontal and vertical MMRS res'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I often wish I could clone myself so I could work on /all/ the things in my head at the same time. I tried to con my child into being my clone a while back but he informed me that he likes living his own life and doesn't want anything to do with "mommy's confusing ideas" heh


I ended up getting the Watercool Heatkiller tops and will be mounting the pumps in the bottom chamber. However, if these arrive before I start putting the loop together, I will take a look at them.

Sounds like you have a lot of things on the plate.

Thanks...Al


----------



## BoxGods

I do have the D5 motor tube extension samples here--just have not had the time to bolt one on to double check everything. I will try to get to it this weekend.

I would ship it off to Mystriss to double check on her pump but it is in raw aluminum (no finish) so a bit of a time and postage waster. I will install a regular D5 and the extension and get some precise dimensions and pics and send her those to double check.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you use a black tube and mate that to an FDP end cap (assuming a vertical installation) it really is not that hard to make sure the system is topped off. Just use the FDP port which is the highest point in the reservoir and fill it till the fluid is right at the port. Run the system for a while and top off as needed till you have bled off all the air. You will want to check every once in a while of course but that is no big dealjust remove the plug and have a look--takes about 30 seconds.
> 
> You might even be able to use a clear plug in the FDP as a sort of "sight glass".


Yep that's an option, too, which I thought of earlier. However, it requires I use a coupler to securely mount the top half of the reservoir, which I have no issues with, except that those g 1/4 threads will go unused since the water lines will be routed to the bottom chamber. I have not ruled that out though. I am exploring all my options now since many of the items I need are not in stock at Performance.

I checked Performance but did not find a coupler with no outlets. Do you sell couplers with no outlets?

Thanks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Yep that's an option, too, which I thought of earlier. However, it requires I use a coupler to securely mount the top half of the reservoir, which I have no issues with, except that those g 1/4 threads will go unused since the water lines will be routed to the bottom chamber. I have not ruled that out though. I am exploring all my options now since many of the items I need are not in stock at Performance.
> 
> I checked Performance but did not find a coupler with no outlets. Do you sell couplers with no outlets?
> 
> Thanks


I am not sure why you would need to use a coupler in conjunction with the FDP?


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am not sure why you would need to use a coupler in conjunction with the FDP?


I plan to use a 250mm reservoir.

I don't see mounting threads on the FDP to secure to the case, so I was going to get a 200mm and 50mm tubes joined with a coupler (see photos in post 1924). I would then use the coupler to secure upper or lower portion to the case, depending on which end the coupler is installed. I don't want to rely solely on one end cap to secure the reservoir to the case. Perhaps I am missing something.


----------



## Deedaz

The FDP is meant to go through the case panel, giving you access to fill or drain your system from the outside. It can also function as the res mount.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The FDP is meant to go through the case panel, giving you access to fill or drain your system from the outside. It can also function as the res mount.


I won't be going through the top of the case in that fashion, just using it as a fill port and staying in the mid section of the case (STH10). If I go that route. Just imagine the photos in post 1924 with the FDP on the top, but not going through the top of the case.

As you can see, I am contemplating a lot of scenarios. I will eventually decide though.


----------



## Deedaz

If you don't need to go through the panel why not just use a single or triple port cap?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you don't need to go through the panel why not just use a single or triple port cap?


Agreed. If you are not really going to use it as a dedicated fill port it seems like any other end cap, (MMRS-EC-1P, MMRS-EC-3P or MMRS-SP-1P , MMRS-SP-3P) would work just fine as these give you a port on top for filling and you still get mounting.

For that matter the FDP would give you mounting even if you didn't use it as a dedicated fill port as it also now has threaded holes for connecting any of the mounts.

It may be that we are just not "seeing" what you have in mind correctly.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> If you don't need to go through the panel why not just use a single or triple port cap?


I want to try something different and I wanted a better way to hopefully see the fluid level since I plan to go with a Black reservoir. I figured the FDP would be better since it will allow me to take the fluid level to the top without leaking out of the reservoir into the case as opposed to the small g1/4 hole (i.e. allows me to better gauge the water level).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Agreed. If you are not really going to use it as a dedicated fill port it seems like any other end cap, (MMRS-EC-1P, MMRS-EC-3P or MMRS-SP-1P , MMRS-SP-3P) would work just fine as these give you a port on top for filling and you still get mounting.
> 
> For that matter the FDP would give you mounting even if you didn't use it as a dedicated fill port as it also now has threaded holes for connecting any of the mounts.
> 
> For clarity, are saying that the FDP has side mounts like the end caps? If so, below are a couple photos of the FDP and I do not see any side mounting threads on it. Again, perhaps I am missing something or maybe the photo just don't show them, nor do I recall seeing them in your videos. I have not seen any other photo that shows mounting threads. If they have mounting threads as you say that would be good.
> 
> It may be that we are just not "seeing" what you have in mind correctly.
> 
> Basically, I will have a 250mm reservoir, bottom end cap and FDP at the top, but the FDP will not go through the top of the case. i will use the larger opening of the FDP to better gauge my water level since I plan to use the Black reservoir because i can fill the water up higher in the FDP and therefore know the water level is good. The smaller g 1/4 hole want allow me to do this as safely as the FDP. Also, I wanted to be a bit different with the setup at the same time.
> 
> Also, in a previous post (Post 1910) you linked your software (Sketchup Model) that allows us to create different scenarios, I stated that I got 2x error message and could not open the program. Do you have a fix for that? I think this will help me better plan my build..


I do understand that those end caps would fit the bill, but I'm weighing my options and at the same time looking at doing things outside of the norm. I'm going with the MMRS theme that I could do thousands of things with it.






Thanks for taking the time to respond...Al


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Agreed. If you are not really going to use it as a dedicated fill port it seems like any other end cap, (MMRS-EC-1P, MMRS-EC-3P or MMRS-SP-1P , MMRS-SP-3P) would work just fine as these give you a port on top for filling and you still get mounting.
> 
> For that matter the FDP would give you mounting even if you didn't use it as a dedicated fill port as it also now has threaded holes for connecting any of the mounts.
> 
> It may be that we are just not "seeing" what you have in mind correctly.


Since this is the sudo monsoon thread. I have a question if I may, do you have any plans to have dealings with FCPU in the future or at this time? I know its kind of a sensitive subject, and understand if you have no comment I am just curious. Thanks either way







.


----------



## BoxGods

@ methodical -- Yes the FDP parts also have threaded holes for use with the mounts. The very first run did not include them (an oversight on my part) but every subsequent run has had them. On Sketchup--the program itself is from Google (or maybe Google spun it off) so I have no idea why it is having errors. The file I linked is a .rar of a folder that contains most of the MMRS parts and needs to be unpacked before Sketchup can open the files. If you are having trouble unpacking the rar file...no idea really. Maybe try a different rar program?

@ Cyber Locc -- I have no idea about FCPU or what is going on over there and there hasn't been any real contact for a long time so no plans to deal with them at this point. I also do not know of any manufacturers or vendors that are selling to them either so the consensus seems to be that they are selling off existing inventory. The problem with that for a lot of vendors is that FCPU didn't pay a lot of them--I know we were not paid for the last order we shipped out to them. There is obviously a lot of concern among vendors about doing business with them--fool me once--but also we are worried that things will seem fine while they are selling from the inventory they had on hand but what happens when they start running out? Will customers start getting cheated? Is it going to be another situation where everything is fine on Friday and Monday they are gone and hundreds of customers are left holding the bag?


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> @ methodical -- Yes the FDP parts also have threaded holes for use with the mounts. The very first run did not include them (an oversight on my part) but every subsequent run has had them. On Sketchup--the program itself is from Google (or maybe Google spun it off) so I have no idea why it is having errors. The file I linked is a .rar of a folder that contains most of the MMRS parts and needs to be unpacked before Sketchup can open the files. If you are having trouble unpacking the rar file...no idea really. Maybe try a different rar program?...


That is great news then. So, Performance should have the newer version with the side mount threads. This gives me hope.









I will continue working on the file to see if I can get it working.

Thanks...Al


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I do have the D5 motor tube extension samples here--just have not had the time to bolt one on to double check everything. I will try to get to it this weekend.
> 
> I would ship it off to Mystriss to double check on her pump but it is in raw aluminum (no finish) so a bit of a time and postage waster. I will install a regular D5 and the extension and get some precise dimensions and pics and send her those to double check.


Meh I'll cover the shipping if you wanna send me the prototype; I much prefer hands on to make sure it's working right for everyone and my measuring skills are questionable ~something something joke about how men teach women to measure things~


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> @ methodical -- Yes the FDP parts also have threaded holes for use with the mounts. The very first run did not include them (an oversight on my part) but every subsequent run has had them. On Sketchup--the program itself is from Google (or maybe Google spun it off) so I have no idea why it is having errors. The file I linked is a .rar of a folder that contains most of the MMRS parts and needs to be unpacked before Sketchup can open the files. If you are having trouble unpacking the rar file...no idea really. Maybe try a different rar program?...
> 
> 
> 
> That is great news then. So, Performance should have the newer version with the side mount threads. This gives me hope.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will continue working on the file to see if I can get it working.
> 
> Thanks...Al
Click to expand...

You will have to wait for them to restock, hopefully this next week. I can't wait for the white caps and the ccfl plugs, I'm going crazy waiting lol. I saw THIS yesterday when I went to ppcs and thought they had arrived. I was a bit irritated when I saw it wasn't the monsoon plugs.


----------



## BoxGods

Yea we tried those first and the light is pretty weak sauce...not really worth the effort.


----------



## Don Key Sho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yea we tried those first and the light is pretty weak sauce...not really worth the effort.


Weaksauce is about right . I have two of those Primochill here. not in a build,just here.if you go back to my old corsair build pics you will see it in ...
well,action just does not describe them.....yeah, ill go with weaksauce.


----------



## seross69

@BoxGods

Geno,

Can the CCFL-PLUG-050-RD-RD be used in any reservoir or does it have to be one of the MMRS ones? Also does it have G1/4 Thread???

thanks in advance!!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> @BoxGods
> 
> Geno,
> 
> Can the CCFL-PLUG-050-RD-RD be used in any reservoir or does it have to be one of the MMRS ones? Also does it have G1/4 Thread???
> 
> thanks in advance!!


The threads are G 1/4 so they will fit any reservoir port that is industry standard. I will post actual lengths as the called out dimension is nominal relating to our tube lengths so you can confirm everything will fit your project. The CCFL Plugs are also already in the Sketchup models download if you want to tinker with them in 3D space.

You can download all the parts from the link below if you are interested.

http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar


----------



## BoxGods

Performance PC's got an order in today for those waiting on MMRS parts. Should be getting another one in a week or so.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance PC's got an order in today for those waiting on MMRS parts. Should be getting another one in a week or so.


perfect timing, just got my bday discount today, woohoo! planning an interesting mmrs setup, hopefully...


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance PC's got an order in today for those waiting on MMRS parts. Should be getting another one in a week or so.


Do you know if this first one has the white caps and ccfl plugs or if it's just replenishing their current inventory?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> perfect timing, just got my bday discount today, woohoo! planning an interesting mmrs setup, hopefully...


Happy Birthday









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Do you know if this first one has the white caps and ccfl plugs or if it's just replenishing their current inventory?


Honestly...no idea. If I had to guess I think it is a restock. I haven't even gotten my shipment of white parts to take product pictures yet. Resellers pitch a fit if new products show up before the pictures do ...


----------



## Deedaz

That makes sense. Maybe I'll hold off on the white caps until I start the stacked X9 project. I'm planning to add another 200mm and a 50mm section to the res and run it up through both cases.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The threads are G 1/4 so they will fit any reservoir port that is industry standard. I will post actual lengths as the called out dimension is nominal relating to our tube lengths so you can confirm everything will fit your project. The CCFL Plugs are also already in the Sketchup models download if you want to tinker with them in 3D space.
> 
> You can download all the parts from the link below if you are interested.
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar


Any idea when we can purchase these plugs??


----------



## Mega Man

I can't wait to buy a few of these res for my new build

Are you going to remove fcpu from "where to buy" on your Web site? ,

Also did you ever make an "extended cover" for the aqua computer usb d5s?

I forgot to check in when you were discussing that :/


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I can't wait to buy a few of these res for my new build
> 
> Are you going to remove fcpu from "where to buy" on your Web site? ,
> 
> Also did you ever make an "extended cover" for the aqua computer usb d5s?
> 
> I forgot to check in when you were discussing that :/


I think he had a protype for it, Mystriss was offering to be a beta tester lol. So I think it is in the works.


----------



## Mega Man

thanks


----------



## Malum

Boxgods:
I think your anouncement of ppc's purchase has caused their page to go down... anyway I can't even get their page to work now and it's not on my part the net doesn't work 'cause their page is the only one I have problems with...









I wish they would get better at running a web store page


----------



## Mega Man

I have been looking at them np via phone and pc


----------



## BoxGods

Site loads OK for me as well.

I will update an exact ship date on the CCFL plugs when I have it. I know saying "soon" is annoying and I apologize for that, but it is hard to be exact on brand new products because there is no existing data to base an exact estimate on.


----------



## Mega Man

Back to the AC d5s with aquabus will the extension tube come with a diff end cover with slightly larger holes for more wires for you think? ?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Back to the AC d5s with aquabus will the extension tube come with a diff end cover with slightly larger holes for more wires for you think? ?


I have already increased the size of the pass thru holes on all motor tube covers (M2-D5P, MMRS, SAP, etc.) so every cover we make from that change on has the larger holes.

For the Aquabus we opted to go with an extension ring that lengthens the normal D5 mounting tube by 10mm and accepts the existing motor mounting tube covers. I do have samples here for testing just haven't had time to put them thru their paces yet. I should in the next few days and will post some pictures.


----------



## Mega Man

Np, ill be a bit before i Buy i was curious and excited, most don't car3 about us in the AC camp

Thanks so much for everything


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Although the frosted tube can't be man handled I have not really found it all that delicate. If you get oil or some other liquid on the frosting it doesn't really "remove it" but rather fills it in. The frosting is not a coating that is sprayed on--the surface of the tube has been etched. If the etching was on the inside of the tube it would become crystal clear when filled with water.
> 
> When you get oil on it those spots tend to become more clear and less etched and can present as "marks". I have gotten those oil marks all over a tube and thought it was ruined but using warm/slightly hot tap water at the sink with dish soap will almost always remove the oil and the mark. I turn the water on and set it to about as hot as is comfortable to my hands, then wash my hands well with soap. Then apply about a table spoon of soap spread over the tube and use my hands to really rub the soap all over the tube. Do not use a rag or dish washing pad--just your soapy hands. Spend about a minute or two rubbing the soap all over the outside of the tube. Then I let it sit for a few minutes while I rinse my hands. Then thoroughly rinse all of the soap off the tube and set it on a clean soft rag/towel to air dry.
> 
> This will not work for scratches obviously but it does work really well for any type of oil marks/smudges.


If I'm reading it right, this is a precaution to preserve the frosted effect; what about the inner surface? Would a (soft) bottle brush work fine?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Although the frosted tube can't be man handled I have not really found it all that delicate. If you get oil or some other liquid on the frosting it doesn't really "remove it" but rather fills it in. The frosting is not a coating that is sprayed on--the surface of the tube has been etched. If the etching was on the inside of the tube it would become crystal clear when filled with water.
> 
> When you get oil on it those spots tend to become more clear and less etched and can present as "marks". I have gotten those oil marks all over a tube and thought it was ruined but using warm/slightly hot tap water at the sink with dish soap will almost always remove the oil and the mark. I turn the water on and set it to about as hot as is comfortable to my hands, then wash my hands well with soap. Then apply about a table spoon of soap spread over the tube and use my hands to really rub the soap all over the tube. Do not use a rag or dish washing pad--just your soapy hands. Spend about a minute or two rubbing the soap all over the outside of the tube. Then I let it sit for a few minutes while I rinse my hands. Then thoroughly rinse all of the soap off the tube and set it on a clean soft rag/towel to air dry.
> 
> This will not work for scratches obviously but it does work really well for any type of oil marks/smudges.
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm reading it right, this is a precaution to preserve the frosted effect; what about the inner surface? Would a (soft) bottle brush work fine?
Click to expand...

You can search back through this thread with my experience with this. I had oil from the o-rings cause spots on my frosted res but Boxgods suggested I scrub it good with mild detergent and it should come off. I used dawn and a dish scrubber and it came off fine with no harm to the frosting. The frosting is etched which means the tube has been physically altered so I'm pretty sure it's almost impossible to scrub the etching off.


----------



## Raistlin Majere

Just wondering if there are any plans to add a Coupler without the G1/4 thread holes?


----------



## VSG

That would be nice for me also


----------



## Mega Man

And... a coupler with a beer holder (I only drink bottle beer kthx )


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And... a coupler with a bear holder (I only drink bottle beer kthx )


What's with keeping the bear attached to the computer? Are you originally from Canada?


----------



## Mega Man

Yay auto correct. Bear =beer

Pretty great laugh though


----------



## BoxGods

*Coupler without G 1/4 ports* -- I am not sure there would be enough demand for a coupler without ports to justify the mold tooling cost. That said...it might be an option to machine these. They would be a few $ more per part though. Option two is to install the coupler rotated 180 so the ports are in the back and not visible...

*Frosted tube* -- The frosting is etched on mechanically so it is not easily removed. The tube is acrylic so it can be scratched / damaged if "scrubbed" aggressively. Any mark that is caused by oil or grease filling the areas between the pores on the etching, (this is the most common mark) can be removed by using a mild dish soap full strength with warm to hot water. I don't use a scrubber--I just wash my hands with dish soap and fairly warm water then put a dollop of dish soap about the diameter of a quarter in my palm then vigorously rub it into the outer surface of the tube for about a minute. Then let the part sit covered in soap for about a minute, then rinse it completely in very warm water. After rinsing set it on a clean paper towel to air dry for 10 or 15 minutes.

*On the Bear* -- Hey as long as you have the bears consent....


----------



## VSG

Nah you are right, I really don't think the demand for the couplers without the ports will be high. The couplers themselves don't seem like high volume items to me as it is.


----------



## Radnad

For the very small ascetic value a portless coupler might have, I think plugging them looks just as good. Remember the caps and couplers can be rotated to hide the plugs as much as possible too.


----------



## BoxGods

Sorry I didn't think of them when we were doing the mold tooling guys...just never entered my mind that there would be a need...why have a coupler if you don't want ports there? Hind sight is 20/20 right?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sorry I didn't think of them when we were doing the mold tooling guys...just never entered my mind that there would be a need...why have a coupler if you don't want ports there? Hind sight is 20/20 right?


Nah is fine. Wife is in engineering and manufacturing so I know how much tooling costs.

I don't blame you one bit.

Except for the lack of a beer holder, not bear...


----------



## eucalyptus

What happened with Europe (Caseking)?? No MMRS for Europe?


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry :comfort:. look like you have to move to the best country,


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance PC's got an order in today for those waiting on MMRS parts. Should be getting another one in a week or so.


I *really* hope that second shipment has the vertical stands for the MMRS, because that's one of two things holding me back on my new build.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance PC's got an order in today for those waiting on MMRS parts. Should be getting another one in a week or so.
> 
> 
> 
> I *really* hope that second shipment has the vertical stands for the MMRS, because that's one of two things holding me back on my new build.
Click to expand...

I'm waiting on that and the D5 end cap. The triple port end cap showed up today though, will probably be sold out by the time the other two show up lol.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What happened with Europe (Caseking)?? No MMRS for Europe?


We sent out MMRS price lists to everyone in Europe several weeks back. Not sure why they haven't placed orders yet. Might be they need a few nag emails from you guys =)

Kidding aside...I think they see all those SKU's and don't get the whole modular thing and sort of freak out.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> I *really* hope that second shipment has the vertical stands for the MMRS, because that's one of two things holding me back on my new build.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I'm waiting on that and the D5 end cap. The triple port end cap showed up today though, will probably be sold out by the time the other two show up lol.


Performance has not done the best job on their orders...to be fair it is a lot of parts and they are still trying to figure out order rates--not an easy job. Doesn't help that I am adding new parts all the time =)

They are also willing to take chances on parts that might not sell like the white end caps so don't be TOO hard on them.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> What happened with Europe (Caseking)?? No MMRS for Europe?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We sent out MMRS price lists to everyone in Europe several weeks back. Not sure why they haven't placed orders yet. Might be they need a few nag emails from you guys =)
> 
> Kidding aside...I think they see all those SKU's and don't get the whole modular thing and sort of freak out.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> I *really* hope that second shipment has the vertical stands for the MMRS, because that's one of two things holding me back on my new build.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I'm waiting on that and the D5 end cap. The triple port end cap showed up today though, will probably be sold out by the time the other two show up lol.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Performance has not done the best job on their orders...to be fair it is a lot of parts and they are still trying to figure out order rates--not an easy job. Doesn't help that I am adding new parts all the time =)
> 
> They are also willing to take chances on parts that might not sell like the white end caps so don't be TOO hard on them.
Click to expand...

I was just saying they can't keep the stuff in stock because it's so popular!







Just about all the new builds I've seen have some kind of monsoon stuff, and a lot of the new reservoirs.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We sent out MMRS price lists to everyone in Europe several weeks back. Not sure why they haven't placed orders yet. Might be they need a few nag emails from you guys =)
> 
> Kidding aside...I think they see all those SKU's and don't get the whole modular thing and sort of freak out.


Or the easter days make all a little bit slowly.


----------



## Raistlin Majere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nah you are right, I really don't think the demand for the couplers without the ports will be high. The couplers themselves don't seem like high volume items to me as it is.


And yet they are completely sold out at PPCs. I think demand for them could be a lot higher then expected. I have an idea for a layout that would only work with a coupler without threads. Turning it 180 would not work.

But as with all mod parts, it all comes down to supply and demand. It is up to Monsoon, if they wish to make it. The whole thing about the MMRS system is to give the customers the ability to use a modular system the way they want but you can only build using parts that exist. I tend to think outside the box when it comes to modding and have been building PC's for 26 years now.

That all being said, I have to thank Monsoon for actually making the MMRS system.


----------



## Jidonsu

I love my MMRS reservoir and pump combo for sure, and I'm glad I went with it. It's got to be nearly impossible to make every combination imaginable, but they're pretty dang close. Gotta hand it to them for the amount of dialogue between manufacturer and consumer.


----------



## Raistlin Majere

Has Monsoon sent out price/parts lists to Australia? It would be nice to buy from PC Case Gear, I know they stock other Monsoon parts.


----------



## Mega Man

personally i am getting sick of the ppcs bashing ( not from this thread ) another thread they made a mistake, it happens , they are all mad that they wont overnight them the item, so they are now threatening ordering from amazon then returning to pccs ... when will people stop trying to screw over other companies, and realize they only screw over other consumes.....


----------



## paultoke

I live in the UK and i have to use PPCS for a lot of parts including my MMRS setup as they are not sold in this country, never had an issue.
In fact I find them very helpfull, quick to reply to email and i sometimes get things delivered quicker than i can in this country


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raistlin Majere*
> 
> Has Monsoon sent out price/parts lists to Australia? It would be nice to buy from PC Case Gear, I know they stock other Monsoon parts.


Sorry but I just haven't been able to find a reliable re-seller in Australia yet.


----------



## paultoke

@boxgods

im just about to order another MMRS Res setup for a build im about to start.
Can you please tell me what you get when you order this option from PPCS. Does it come with what is shown in the picture?
http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-d5-pump-cover-chrome.html
Thanks
Paul


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah seems like there is always somebody wanting to hate on PPCS. My personal experience with Hank has always been positive. We are a tiny company and when I first approached him about selling our products he took a chance on us--long before any other re-seller would.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> @boxgods
> 
> im just about to order another MMRS Res setup for a build im about to start.
> Can you please tell me what you get when you order this option from PPCS. Does it come with whait is shown in the picture?
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-d5-pump-cover-chrome.html
> Thanks
> Paul


Everything except for that black acrylic square it is mounted to--that is just to demonstrate how it looks mounted.


----------



## paultoke

Thanks i nearly ordered to much lol


----------



## paultoke

Just ordered this option but in chrome to go into my new build. I think that will go well with the case and colour scheme


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raistlin Majere*
> 
> And yet they are completely sold out at PPCs. I think demand for them could be a lot higher then expected. I have an idea for a layout that would only work with a coupler without threads. Turning it 180 would not work.
> 
> But as with all mod parts, it all comes down to supply and demand. It is up to Monsoon, if they wish to make it. The whole thing about the MMRS system is to give the customers the ability to use a modular system the way they want but you can only build using parts that exist. I tend to think outside the box when it comes to modding and have been building PC's for 26 years now.
> 
> That all being said, I have to thank Monsoon for actually making the MMRS system.


Sold out doesn't mean much without knowing how many units were sold.


----------



## Methodical

Boxgod, I have a question or better yet need confirmation as I am about to place my order for the MMRS gear. In an earlier reply to my post about the FDP, you stated that the unit has side mount threads (like the end caps) and will work with the reservoir mounting brackets (i.e. 25mm in my case). I watch a video by SinularityComputers that was made this month (March 2016) where he did a review of the MMRS and the FDP didn't have the side mounting holes on it. I just want to be sure that the side mounts exist before placing the order with Performance or should I wait awhile to make sure Performance has the newer versions in stock?






Thanks


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Boxgod, I have a question or better yet need confirmation as I am about to place my order for the MMRS gear. In an earlier reply to my post about the FDP, you stated that the unit has side mount threads (like the end caps) and will work with the reservoir mounting brackets (i.e. 25mm in my case). I watch a video by SinularityComputers that was made this month (March 2016) where he did a review of the MMRS and the FDP didn't have the side mounting holes on it. I just want to be sure that the side mounts exist before placing the order with Performance or should I wait awhile to make sure Performance has the newer versions in stock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I would call/email ppcs when you do your order and ask them to make sure you get the one with mount holes.


----------



## Mystriss

For the record, I have never had any problems with PPCS [websites a little slow on occasion but that's not too big a deal.] I started going to them right after FPC fell apart, 3 years ago I suppose. They ship Priority Mail which is super important to me up here in Alaska, and it's always quick and very well packed


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> For the record, I have never had any problems with PPCS [websites a little slow on occasion but that's not too big a deal.] I started going to them right after FPC fell apart, 3 years ago I suppose. They ship Priority Mail which is super important to me up here in Alaska, and it's always quick and very well packed


Wait what is FPC?


----------



## Mystriss

Mistype... I meant "FCPU" as in Frozen CPU... I suppose I was kind of close, sort of heh


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Boxgod, I have a question or better yet need confirmation as I am about to place my order for the MMRS gear. In an earlier reply to my post about the FDP, you stated that the unit has side mount threads (like the end caps) and will work with the reservoir mounting brackets (i.e. 25mm in my case). I watch a video by SinularityComputers that was made this month (March 2016) where he did a review of the MMRS and the FDP didn't have the side mounting holes on it. I just want to be sure that the side mounts exist before placing the order with Performance or should I wait awhile to make sure Performance has the newer versions in stock?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


The logical part of my brain doesn't see how they could still have any of the very first run FDP parts left that didn't have the threaded holes for mounts. That being said--my wife just pointed out that they are not a supermarket so new inventory is not for sure placed behind existing inventory when they get a new order...they likely unpack orders and toss products into various bins.

So short answer--they *should* have the revised FDP but honestly I can't guarantee that so Deedaz gave the best advice when he suggested a call or email to them to confirm. That is not the exact answer you wanted I know. Sorry.


----------



## solidshark91493

Hey gene if you need me to update the original post with new products or anything let me know.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Hey gene if you need me to update the original post with new products or anything let me know.


Thanks =)

Maybe wait a few more weeks till the CCFL Plugs, Motor Tube extension rings, Vertical Mounts, Rad Mounts, Mating kits, etc. etc. are all out and we can update it in one shot.


----------



## BoxGods

Not to hijack the thread...Tesla reveals the Model 3 today...anyone else excited?

The rumors are saying there will be options up to 300 mile range. I just hope it doesn't look like a$$

I think I may have to do a Tesla Themed mod...would be as close to a Tesla as I am likely ever to get.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Thanks =)
> 
> Maybe wait a few more weeks till the CCFL Plugs, Motor Tube extension rings, Vertical Mounts, Rad Mounts, Mating kits, etc. etc. are all out and we can update it in one shot.


Sounds good


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not to hijack the thread...Tesla reveals the Model 3 today...anyone else excited?


I drove past a Tesla showroom yesterday and noted that there were people camped outside. They were also putting up a barrier. I thought 'what is that about' but then NPR answreed my question about 15 seconds later by saying the new Tesla is revealed Thursday.

So ... yes, I guess some people are excited enough to camp outside for the night ... Boston ... 35°F

Not me. I'll watch the vid.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not to hijack the thread...Tesla reveals the Model 3 today...anyone else excited?
> 
> The rumors are saying there will be options up to 300 mile range. I just hope it doesn't look like a$$
> 
> I think I may have to do a Tesla Themed mod...would be as close to a Tesla as I am likely ever to get.


They are nice cars, but the limited mileage range between charges makes it a local vehicle, at least for me. I know they are suppose to build recharge stations around the states, but then that forces one to take certain routes that one may not want too.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The logical part of my brain doesn't see how they could still have any of the very first run FDP parts left that didn't have the threaded holes for mounts. That being said--my wife just pointed out that they are not a supermarket so new inventory is not for sure placed behind existing inventory when they get a new order...they likely unpack orders and toss products into various bins.
> 
> So short answer--they *should* have the revised FDP but honestly I can't guarantee that so Deedaz gave the best advice when he suggested a call or email to them to confirm. That is not the exact answer you wanted I know. Sorry.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I would call/email ppcs when you do your order and ask them to make sure you get the one with mount holes.


That's fine. I know it's out of your control. I have not problems calling them and making sure they give me what I need or at least check to see what they have. Is there some sort of date code that I can reference when I talk to them? Or what manufacture date should I take note of to ensure what they see is accurate; they may not be willing to open the package to check (not sure how units are packaged)?

Thanks


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Thanks =)
> 
> Maybe wait a few more weeks till the CCFL Plugs, Motor Tube extension rings, Vertical Mounts, Rad Mounts, Mating kits, etc. etc. are all out and we can update it in one shot.


So the package heading in next week does not have these? Hank seems to think it has the new parts also.


----------



## rathar3

MMRS res in my new build


----------



## Don Key Sho

sorry double post


----------



## Don Key Sho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MMRS res in my new build


nice!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not to hijack the thread...Tesla reveals the Model 3 today...anyone else excited?
> 
> The rumors are saying there will be options up to 300 mile range. I just hope it doesn't look like a$$
> 
> I think I may have to do a Tesla Themed mod...would be as close to a Tesla as I am likely ever to get.


You asked, meh, if I wanted to blow that kind of money i would get a skyline

I'll keep my hemis otherwise


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not to hijack the thread...Tesla reveals the Model 3 today...anyone else excited?
> 
> The rumors are saying there will be options up to 300 mile range. I just hope it doesn't look like a$$
> 
> I think I may have to do a Tesla Themed mod...would be as close to a Tesla as I am likely ever to get.
> 
> 
> 
> You asked, meh, if I wanted to blow that kind of money i would get a skyline
> 
> I'll keep my hemis otherwise
Click to expand...











~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> So the package heading in next week does not have these? Hank seems to think it has the new parts also.


Some of them. Not sure which as they always have 3 or 4 orders going at any one time (and I don't handle that part of things). I know mating kits, vertical mounts, and white parts were packaged and ready to go. The CCFL plugs are shipping on a later order I believe.


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Some of them. Not sure which as they always have 3 or 4 orders going at any one time (and I don't handle that part of things). I know mating kits, vertical mounts, and white parts were packaged and ready to go. The CCFL plugs are shipping on a later order I believe.


Ah ok


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The logical part of my brain doesn't see how they could still have any of the very first run FDP parts left that didn't have the threaded holes for mounts. That being said--my wife just pointed out that they are not a supermarket so new inventory is not for sure placed behind existing inventory when they get a new order...they likely unpack orders and toss products into various bins.
> 
> So short answer--they *should* have the revised FDP but honestly I can't guarantee that so Deedaz gave the best advice when he suggested a call or email to them to confirm. That is not the exact answer you wanted I know. Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I would call/email ppcs when you do your order and ask them to make sure you get the one with mount holes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's fine. I know it's out of your control. I have not problems calling them and making sure they give me what I need or at least check to see what they have. Is there some sort of date code that I can reference when I talk to them? Or what manufacture date should I take note of to ensure what they see is accurate; they may not be willing to open the package to check (not sure how units are packaged)?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

The packaging is clear, they should be able to tell if it has the holes pretty easily.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The packaging is clear, they should be able to tell if it has the holes pretty easily.


Good I will call them.

Thanks

??


----------



## NeeqOne

@BoxGods, any news on when PPCs are getting the vertical mount?


----------



## eucalyptus

Sadly I got 2 leaks somehow after my loops were finished and up and running









No cracked collars, but something made them leaking, one were leaking slow and the other one started to leak faster and faster.

Took them apart and put some glue inside the tube, at the point there the collar and tube meets. A thick layer of glue, and just a thin layer outside above the collar where the fitting is pushing/meeting the collar.

Aaaaaand, it seems like it's working







10-15 minutes now without a single drop anywhere.

The feeling of having a "leakfree" loop is amazing, almost undescribable! Feels so weird somehow too.
















Summary: glue can solve many problems.


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry to hear about your leaks :/


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Good I will call them.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> ??


Update: Sent and email Sunday and Duke called me Monday and confirmed they have the FDPs with the mounting holes. He also requested I add a note to the order, which I did. - Cool.


----------



## iBruce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You asked, meh, if I wanted to blow that kind of money i would get a skyline
> 
> I'll keep my hemis otherwise


A Skyline GT-R to transport a new baby? Well of course, that was my first choice.

Unfortunately (or fortunately) the mother of the child gets to choose the "baby transporter" before the bundle of joy arrives and I don't have much say in the matter. Those are the new rules of baby ownership, or so I am learning.









Volvo, here we come.









Actually she's looking at a dark gray metallic GLA 250 with a Night Package and 19inch AMG rims, so it may not be so bad after all.

Oh yea, Monsoon stuff, going to again use new Monsoon soft compression on the test bench rig during the water change this month, but already picked up way too many EK reservoirs for the primary build, because sometimes you cannot decide which part works best unless you have it right in front of you, so already have an EK X3 150 in white POM ready for a horizontal mount. Will look into the new Monsoon gear for the upcoming CaseLabs/Kaby Lake or Skylake E build beginning this summer, cuz starting a build 9months before the platform actually launches is always more fun.


----------



## Ceadderman

Finally! I can start my MMRS. But am torn. Stnd alone pump for access to Vario control or w/ pump with zero access to Vario.









Really wish there was a better way to access Vario in a one piece setup. So either I have to build the Res w/o it and fill up premium space with a stand alone kit and spend more or set it an forget it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Finally! I can start my MMRS. But am torn. Stnd alone pump for access to Vario control or w/ pump with zero access to Vario.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really wish there was a better way to access Vario in a one piece setup. So either I have to build the Res w/o it and fill up premium space with a stand alone kit and spend more or set it an forget it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Can't you make a hole in the D5 back cover plate to access the switch? Also, ask boxgods if he might update the future design to allow for that. Lawd knows we have asked him to bend over backwards 100 times for our benefit and poor guy has done it to extents no other manufacturer has. He has been incredibly flexible with the entire MMRS line and letting us help guide the designs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Finally! I can start my MMRS. But am torn. Stnd alone pump for access to Vario control or w/ pump with zero access to Vario.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really wish there was a better way to access Vario in a one piece setup. So either I have to build the Res w/o it and fill up premium space with a stand alone kit and spend more or set it an forget it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't you make a hole in the D5 back cover plate to access the switch? Also, ask boxgods if he might update the future design to allow for that. Lawd knows we have asked him to bend over backwards 100 times for our benefit and poor guy has done it to extents no other manufacturer has. He has been incredibly flexible with the entire MMRS line and letting us help guide the designs.
Click to expand...

I could drill through the cover but to do so it would have to be perfectly lined up so my cables can be routed perfectly. Having the Blue tach wire on my EK Vario, I really need to be careful lining things up for the Vario Control knob. Not that I can't but it's a bit of a headache I see. Also I'm thinking in a one piece setup, I may simply leave the cover off an only install it when attending future LAN events.









Not that it matters now anyway. PPCs is woefully lacking the pieces I need for my setup. The only pieces available to me at this moment...

100mm Red Sleeve
200mm Black Sleeve
Rods for Both
Triple port top

No dual port connecting collar

They do have the Pump Base and they do have the Cover. But being as the idea of Vario accessibility stymies me, I really don't wish to complicate matters further at cost. Cause if I choose to go stand alone unit, then I'm stuck with the pump adapter for a one piece and vice versa with a stand alone should I decide to go one piece. That and not having all the parts in hand is my next biggest issue. I don't like leaving parts on the shelf accumulating dust. At least Gene has them perfectly packaged. I may just go with my RAM block and save the rest of the funds I have atm for MMRS. Shipping costs suck and I really don't want to pay a lot of shipping just to put this thing together.









Geez I'm so BiPolar when it comes to my builds.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Finally! I can start my MMRS. But am torn. Stnd alone pump for access to Vario control or w/ pump with zero access to Vario.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really wish there was a better way to access Vario in a one piece setup. So either I have to build the Res w/o it and fill up premium space with a stand alone kit and spend more or set it an forget it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't you make a hole in the D5 back cover plate to access the switch? Also, ask boxgods if he might update the future design to allow for that. Lawd knows we have asked him to bend over backwards 100 times for our benefit and poor guy has done it to extents no other manufacturer has. He has been incredibly flexible with the entire MMRS line and letting us help guide the designs.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I could drill through the cover but to do so it would have to be perfectly lined up so my cables can be routed perfectly. Having the Blue tach wire on my EK Vario, I really need to be careful lining things up for the Vario Control knob. Not that I can't but it's a bit of a headache I see. Also I'm thinking in a one piece setup, I may simply leave the cover off an only install it when attending future LAN events.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not that it matters now anyway. PPCs is woefully lacking the pieces I need for my setup. The only pieces available to me at this moment...
> 
> 100mm Red Sleeve
> 200mm Black Sleeve
> Rods for Both
> Triple port top
> 
> No dual port connecting collar
> 
> They do have the Pump Base and they do have the Cover. But being as the idea of Vario accessibility stymies me, I really don't wish to complicate matters further at cost. Cause if I choose to go stand alone unit, then I'm stuck with the pump adapter for a one piece and vice versa with a stand alone should I decide to go one piece. That and not having all the parts in hand is my next biggest issue. I don't like leaving parts on the shelf accumulating dust. At least Gene has them perfectly packaged. I may just go with my RAM block and save the rest of the funds I have atm for MMRS. Shipping costs suck and I really don't want to pay a lot of shipping just to put this thing together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Geez I'm so BiPolar when it comes to my builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...





Well I dont have a D5 vario or the MMRS pump cover on hand to verify but from pics I can see it almost looks like the speed dial falls right in the middle of one of the cover cutouts. And if I'm not mistaken the cutouts are just covered by black dampening foam? It may easy enough to just cut a hole in the foam, or even just a slit, to access the dial?

EDIT: I started thinking that this might have already been covered in this thread but I searched and surprisingly enough it wasn't.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Finally! I can start my MMRS. But am torn. Stnd alone pump for access to Vario control or w/ pump with zero access to Vario.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really wish there was a better way to access Vario in a one piece setup. So either I have to build the Res w/o it and fill up premium space with a stand alone kit and spend more or set it an forget it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Psst, time to ditch the knob, pwm or aqua bus enabled ftw! Then you NEVER have to mess with the knob


----------



## Methodical

Finally! I can start my MMRS. But am torn. Stnd alone pump for access to Vario control or w/ pump with zero access to Vario. doh.gif

Really wish there was a better way to access Vario in a one piece setup. So either I have to build the Res w/o it and fill up premium space with a stand alone kit and spend more or set it an forget it. blushsmiley.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif

Because of this, I went with the Aquabus/usb D5 pump. I thought about the PWM, but this one gives a bit more options.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ...
> 
> No dual port connecting collar...~Ceadder


I got an email today that the Coupler is back in stock.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Finally! I can start my MMRS. But am torn. Stnd alone pump for access to Vario control or w/ pump with zero access to Vario.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really wish there was a better way to access Vario in a one piece setup. So either I have to build the Res w/o it and fill up premium space with a stand alone kit and spend more or set it an forget it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Psst, time to ditch the knob, pwm or aqua bus enabled ftw! Then you NEVER have to mess with the knob
Click to expand...

Yeah I know. I just am on a seriously *tight* budget. My 9mos old son pust a strangle hold on my wallet so wants like that are a bit extravagant and I'm trying to keep things within my budget. Needs over wants whenever possible.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Finally! I can start my MMRS. But am torn. Stnd alone pump for access to Vario control or w/ pump with zero access to Vario. doh.gif
> 
> Really wish there was a better way to access Vario in a one piece setup. So either I have to build the Res w/o it and fill up premium space with a stand alone kit and spend more or set it an forget it. blushsmiley.gif
> 
> ~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
> 
> Because of this, I went with the Aquabus/usb D5 pump. I thought about the PWM, but this one gives a bit more options.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> ...
> 
> No dual port connecting collar...~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got an email today that the Coupler is back in stock.
Click to expand...

They don't have them up yet so I went with RAM block 180 and shutoff fittings. At least I can tie up my MB runs now.









So apologies for that Geno an everyone else. At least it stimulated the thread.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

100 % understand


----------



## Bandalo

I ordered all the parts last week for my MMRS build. I'm going with a 250mm blue/black combo with the D5 mount on the bottom, and a triple-port on the top.

In my planned layout, I'll use one of the top ports to connect to a fill port at the top of the case, one for the return line from the radiator, and one plugged.

I've seen these in several other radiators to minimize the splashing and prevent bubbles / vortexes. Like this one for example:



Is there an anti-splash tube available for the inside of the top cap for the return line?


----------



## Mega Man

Iirc bitspower sells them, one that can be threaded in to the INSIDE of the res, and one that threads in from the out side that just goes into the res


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> I ordered all the parts last week for my MMRS build. I'm going with a 250mm blue/black combo with the D5 mount on the bottom, and a triple-port on the top.
> 
> In my planned layout, I'll use one of the top ports to connect to a fill port at the top of the case, one for the return line from the radiator, and one plugged.
> 
> I've seen these in several other radiators to minimize the splashing and prevent bubbles / vortexes. Like this one for example:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there an anti-splash tube available for the inside of the top cap for the return line?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Iirc bitspower sells them, one that can be threaded in to the INSIDE of the res, and one that threads in from the out side that just goes into the res


So does ek or they did as i have several


----------



## Mega Man

I believe you, but I no see them


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I believe you, but I no see them


look here https://www.ekwb.com/shop/reservoirs/accessories-spare-parts?p=2


----------



## BoxGods

I admit I don't really see the point of the down tubes. If you like the look of half filled reservoirs (and in some cases it does look cool) the down tube sort of ruins the look.

I will see about adding this capability tho as several people have asked for it...just so I understand...it is just a tube that screws into the cap on the back correct? Does it screw directly into the G 1/4 threads causing a smaller ID for the tube...or are the threads larger than G 1/4?


----------



## Bandalo

Perfect! Thanks.

Is Monsoon planning on making a similar part? Perhaps color-matched?


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## Bandalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I admit I don't really see the point of the down tubes. If you like the look of half filled reservoirs (and in some cases it does look cool) the down tube sort of ruins the look.
> 
> I will see about adding this capability tho as several people have asked for it...just so I understand...it is just a tube that screws into the cap on the back correct? Does it screw directly into the G 1/4 threads causing a smaller ID for the tube...or are the threads larger than G 1/4?


I'm not sure how they actually attach on the ones I've seen online. I haven't seen any in person, and my current EK res return line comes into the base, so I haven't used that feature. The Bitspower one seems to be a 2-3" long thin metal tube with G1/4" threads on the outside at one end. I don't see any way you could keep the same inside diameter without making a larger port in the top.

I normally keep my res within 1/2" or so of full, just so I can keep an eye on the level. But in the new layout, I have to have the return line in the top, and I'm just trying to avoid any splashing noises. I'm not sure if it'll be a problem or not, but I'd rather take care of it up front. I don't want to have to disassemble the whole setup just to install the tube. I don't think air bubbles getting into the pump will actually be a problem, since it's 10" tall, but the noise may be if the res isn't COMPLETELY full.


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I admit I don't really see the point of the down tubes. If you like the look of half filled reservoirs (and in some cases it does look cool) the down tube sort of ruins the look.
> 
> I will see about adding this capability tho as several people have asked for it...just so I understand...it is just a tube that screws into the cap on the back correct? Does it screw directly into the G 1/4 threads causing a smaller ID for the tube...or are the threads larger than G 1/4?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> I'm not sure how they actually attach on the ones I've seen online. I haven't seen any in person, and my current EK res return line comes into the base, so I haven't used that feature. The Bitspower one seems to be a 2-3" long thin metal tube with G1/4" threads on the outside at one end. I don't see any way you could keep the same inside diameter without making a larger port in the top.
> 
> I normally keep my res within 1/2" or so of full, just so I can keep an eye on the level. But in the new layout, I have to have the return line in the top, and I'm just trying to avoid any splashing noises. I'm not sure if it'll be a problem or not, but I'd rather take care of it up front. I don't want to have to disassemble the whole setup just to install the tube. I don't think air bubbles getting into the pump will actually be a problem, since it's 10" tall, but the noise may be if the res isn't COMPLETELY full.


I've run my top inlet on the Monsoon MMRS both ways, with a inlet pipe like the Bitspower one, and without. The one below is meant to be inserted from the outside of the cap and threaded into the reservoir itself. Your fittings will screw into the top of the pipe this way. That's why the outside base of the pipe "head" has threads as well as the inner portion.

In the end, I ended up removing the pipe and not using it. I just made sure to fill the reservoir all the way by adding coolant with a fill bottle until I can see the liquid just touch the inner threads on one of the ports on top, and then I sealed it with a stop plug. No splashes or bubbles.



They also have ones like the one below that aren't meant to be inserted through the cap. They screw in from inside. I also tried those, but I think it was meant for thicker caps. The threaded portion was the same depth as the ports on the triple port cap on my MMRS, which meant you can't attach a fitting from the top anymore. If the Monsoon cap was thicker and can accommodate a g 1/4 on both ends of the port, sure, but that's not worth changing.


----------



## Bandalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> I've run my top inlet on the Monsoon MMRS both ways, with a inlet pipe like the Bitspower one, and without. The one below is meant to be inserted from the outside of the cap and threaded into the reservoir itself. Your fittings will screw into the top of the pipe this way. That's why the outside base of the pipe "head" has threads as well as the inner portion.
> 
> In the end, I ended up removing the pipe and not using it. I just made sure to fill the reservoir all the way by adding coolant with a fill bottle until I can see the liquid just touch the inner threads on one of the ports on top, and then I sealed it with a stop plug. No splashes or bubbles.
> 
> 
> 
> They also have ones like the one below that aren't meant to be inserted through the cap. They screw in from inside. I also tried those, but I think it was meant for thicker caps. The threaded portion was the same depth as the ports on the triple port cap on my MMRS, which meant you can't attach a fitting from the top anymore. If the Monsoon cap was thicker and can accommodate a g 1/4 on both ends of the port, sure, but that's not worth changing.


This one is actually perfect. I'm still waiting on PPC to get the blue D5 pump covers in stock, but when they do, I'll grab one of these too.

I'm planning on sticking a fill port in and running up to the top of the case, so I SHOULD be able to get the res completely full. I'd just rather have this fitting on hand when I build it, just to avoid the potential problem. Since it installs from the OUTSIDE, I can just drain a bit of the return line to install it, and I don't have to completely disassemble the res. Thanks!


----------



## Deedaz

I can't decide if I want my next upgrade to be a stacked version of this x9 case with the res going the full height with monsta rads. Or just go caselabs s8 and shrink the res, maybe attach the pump.
It would be really great to have a caselabs, but a stacked x9 with a 5 ft res would be pretty crazy.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> This one is actually perfect. I'm still waiting on PPC to get the blue D5 pump covers in stock, but when they do, I'll grab one of these too.
> 
> I'm planning on sticking a fill port in and running up to the top of the case, so I SHOULD be able to get the res completely full. I'd just rather have this fitting on hand when I build it, just to avoid the potential problem. Since it installs from the OUTSIDE, I can just drain a bit of the return line to install it, and I don't have to completely disassemble the res. Thanks!


This is a clever design from a mechanical POV but I would be worried about what that significantly narrower tubes ID does for flow rates. If you think about it it is like adding 10-12 extra fittings to your loop. Probably not an issue in most builds but again...to me it seems a bit like a solution looking for a problem. Just one guy's opinion but I would either run my reservoir full or if you really enjoy the aesthetics of a partially full reservoir than route the plumbing so the inlet uses a side port or comes in from the bottom maybe.

I think I will look at a press in insert that presses into the outer rim of the end cap and has a larger diameter tube.

A second alternative would be a threaded insert that fits on the outside, passes through the end cap and extends down about 5mm or 6mm and then the down tube threads on to the OD of that insert so you limit the length of the restriction.

Will tinker around with a few ideas.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> This is a clever design from a mechanical POV but I would be worried about what that significantly narrower tubes ID does for flow rates.


It will actually have very little effect as think of all the testing carried out comparing flow rates/restriction between 1/2" and 3/8" tubing which results in next to no impact.

The tube still has a reasonable ID is dead straight and smooth so restriction is minimal at most.

I have performed a similar modification to my XSPC Photon reservoirs back last year using Bitspower's Aquapipe-1:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/190#post_24003175

http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/200#post_24129437
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you think about it it is like adding 10-12 extra fittings to your loop.


Can't guess these things, we need to measure so that is exactly what I did last year.

In my testing using a calibrated King instruments flowmeter - I found that flow rates altered by less than 0.02GPM before/after modification - so nothing to really be worried about....


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Costas*
> 
> It will actually have very little effect as think of all the testing carried out comparing flow rates/restriction between 1/2" and 3/8" tubing which results in next to no impact.
> 
> The tube still has a reasonable ID is dead straight and smooth so restriction is minimal at most.
> 
> I have performed a similar modification to my XSPC Photon reservoirs back last year using Bitspower's Aquapipe-1:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/190#post_24003175
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1464224/ocn-xspc-photon-res-d5-pump-combo-owners-club/200#post_24129437
> Can't guess these things, we need to measure so that is exactly what I did last year.
> 
> In my testing using a calibrated King instruments flowmeter - I found that flow rates altered by less than 0.02GPM before/after modification - so nothing to really be worried about....


I would normally agree with this 100% but both those tube sizes use fittings with G 1/4 threads so the same thru hole opening--so essentially the same sized "choke points". These would decrease that thru hole opening substantially. I can't imagine there isn't SOME losses.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I would normally agree with this 100% but both those tube sizes use fittings with G 1/4 threads so the same thru hole opening--so essentially the same sized "choke points". These would decrease that thru hole opening substantially. I can't imagine there isn't SOME losses.


I don't have a Bitspower Aquapipe-2 on hand but I do have some Aquapipe-1's spare.

I just measured the ID on one and it is a constant 8.45mm along its whole length. Standard ID is around 9.8mm for typical Bitspower fittings.

So while the ID is reduced from 10 to around 8.5MM, it is probably not really significant enough to alter the flow a reasonable amount. No different to when we select 3/8" tube instead of 1/2" - You don't see a significant change in flow.

The tests don't lie either... I have a King Instruments tall 2GPM rotameter which is scaled in 0.02 GPM graduations. When testing my reservoirs (before and after modding them) I only ever saw a reduction of no more than around 1 graduation on the meter at around my 1GPM reference flow level.

Note that all my testing was with the Aquapipe-1 and I have never held an Aquapipe-2 in my hand so I cannot tell what it's ID measures in at.

On another note - Not sure if you are familiar with Aquacomputer's MPS series of flow meters but these are considered a low restriction device. The model I am using in my current build [MPS400] has a 7mm orifice which is way smaller than the Bitspower Aquapipe's ID's.

fast_fate performed a pressure restriction test on the MPS400 some time ago and came up with the following result...

Keep in mind that this is a device with a 7mm orifice...


----------



## VSG

Add the error bar to those measurements and it can be more. I believe FF uses a Dwyer 490-3 which has a +/- 0.25 psi precision.

There is definitely an effect of having these tubes, but not appreciably so. It can be easily mitigated by having a G3/8" OD threaded part and having ID closer to G1/4" itself if it is a concern.


----------



## Costas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Add the error bar to those measurements and it can be more.


Or less if we subtract....









Thing is that keeping things in perspective, it is not going to be an issue for 99.9% of our setups...


----------



## Bandalo

I'm guessing that across the entire loop, this part would have a pretty insignificant impact. I'll trade the 0.25C higher temps for no constant splashing noise though!


----------



## ruffhi

I have a MMRS that includes Triple Port End Cap at the bottom (feeding the pumps using a flex tube length about 25cm) and a Tube Coupler in the middle (50mm tube about the coupler, 50mm tube below the coupler). The water will be flowing back into the res using the coupler.

*Qs ...*

will this cause a vortex?

if so, will a trident help with the 3-port exit (only one of which will feed the pumps)?

if so, how do I get a trident?


----------



## Methodical

Boxgod, check This out. I spoke with Duke at Performance today and he informed me of this. I guess my inquiry prompted the change. Duke went 10 steps and above to help me ensure I got the right part.







to Duke at Performance.

Al


----------



## Bandalo

Got some parts in...



Now I just need the D5 pump covers to come back in stock.

Once it does, I had a question. Suppose I wanted to leak test the new pump/res combo for a while. If I just rig up a loop from the pump outlet to the top and fill it up with DI water, how long could I run this before heat became a problem? I'm not sure how much heat the pump actually dumps into the loop, and if ambient losses would be enough to overcome it. It'd be nice to have this completely leak tested before my case arrives and I get into the messy parts of the build.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Boxgod, check This out. I spoke with Duke at Performance today and he informed me of this. I guess my inquiry prompted the change. Duke went 10 steps and above to help me ensure I got the right part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to Duke at Performance.
> 
> Al


Guys I have tried to tell You that ppc's gives great service


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Got some parts in...
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need the D5 pump covers to come back in stock.
> 
> Once it does, I had a question. Suppose I wanted to leak test the new pump/res combo for a while. If I just rig up a loop from the pump outlet to the top and fill it up with DI water, how long could I run this before heat became a problem? I'm not sure how much heat the pump actually dumps into the loop, and if ambient losses would be enough to overcome it. It'd be nice to have this completely leak tested before my case arrives and I get into the messy parts of the build.


Awesome!!!! I want so bad!!!


----------



## Malum

Well I also have those "inner" tubes in my two res' and since the inner diameter of those tubes are bigger than the hole of my "bases" in my chaingun fittings I seriusly doubt that the tubes will create more resistance than there already are from the fitting I have installed right on top of that "inner" tube.

The reason I have them in the res' is primary because when I turn of the computer and the pumps stop pressing water around the loop, the tubes that let the water return via the top of the res' tends to "suck" in a little air from the Res' into the tube and those bubbles travels all the way up to my top rad which is NOT desireble...
So when I have those "inner" tubes in the Res' the "Return tubing" on the top of the Res' no longer sucks in Air from the Res' but instead it just "sucks" in Water from the Res' as long as the end of the inner tube is below the water-surface in the Res'.....

I hope I explained it so that you guys could understand what i mean...

Ps also ofcause they make the sound of water returning to the res' much quieter than if the water were to "fall" down from the "fitting" to the surface in the Res

P.Ps Boxgods any news on your version of the inverter for the ccfl ?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Got some parts in...
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need the D5 pump covers to come back in stock.
> 
> Once it does, I had a question. Suppose I wanted to leak test the new pump/res combo for a while. If I just rig up a loop from the pump outlet to the top and fill it up with DI water, how long could I run this before heat became a problem? I'm not sure how much heat the pump actually dumps into the loop, and if ambient losses would be enough to overcome it. It'd be nice to have this completely leak tested before my case arrives and I get into the messy parts of the build.


When I got mine I assembled it, plugged the ports, and played football with it in the backyard and never saw one drop drip out. Even a good "shake weight" test should be enough to see if its going to drip.


----------



## Bandalo

A short time running in a loop would also let me test the new too pump though. And since I have to disassemble my current rig to move it into the new case, I don't want to find any big problems when I'm half way through the process.


----------



## Benjiw

Gunna be hardlining my build today, any tips on how much of that UV glue to use on the collars so I don't get leaks like @eucalyptus got?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Sadly I got 2 leaks somehow after my loops were finished and up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No cracked collars, but something made them leaking, one were leaking slow and the other one started to leak faster and faster.
> 
> Took them apart and put some glue inside the tube, at the point there the collar and tube meets. A thick layer of glue, and just a thin layer outside above the collar where the fitting is pushing/meeting the collar.
> 
> Aaaaaand, it seems like it's working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10-15 minutes now without a single drop anywhere.
> 
> The feeling of having a "leakfree" loop is amazing, almost undescribable! Feels so weird somehow too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Summary: glue can solve many problems.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Gunna be hardlining my build today, any tips on how much of that UV glue to use on the collars so I don't get leaks like @eucalyptus got?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Sadly I got 2 leaks somehow after my loops were finished and up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No cracked collars, but something made them leaking, one were leaking slow and the other one started to leak faster and faster.
> 
> Took them apart and put some glue inside the tube, at the point there the collar and tube meets. A thick layer of glue, and just a thin layer outside above the collar where the fitting is pushing/meeting the collar.
> 
> Aaaaaand, it seems like it's working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10-15 minutes now without a single drop anywhere.
> 
> The feeling of having a "leakfree" loop is amazing, almost undescribable! Feels so weird somehow too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Summary: glue can solve many problems.
Click to expand...

Boxgods put a video on youtube showing showing how to do the collars. Definitely worth checking the monsoon channel.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Gunna be hardlining my build today, any tips on how much of that UV glue to use on the collars so I don't get leaks like @eucalyptus got?


The trick is to make sure you clean the channel where the o-ring sits and clean the o-ring of any foreign objects.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> The trick is to make sure you clean the channel where the o-ring sits and clean the o-ring of any foreign objects.


That's it.

How did this crazy post happen?


----------



## Don Key Sho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Got some parts in...
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need the D5 pump covers to come back in stock.
> 
> Once it does, I had a question. Suppose I wanted to leak test the new pump/res combo for a while. If I just rig up a loop from the pump outlet to the top and fill it up with DI water, how long could I run this before heat became a problem? I'm not sure how much heat the pump actually dumps into the loop, and if ambient losses would be enough to overcome it. It'd be nice to have this completely leak tested before my case arrives and I get into the messy parts of the build.


any color in mind. I have a black chrome im not using. you in the lower 48?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Sadly I got 2 leaks somehow after my loops were finished and up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No cracked collars, but something made them leaking, one were leaking slow and the other one started to leak faster and faster.
> 
> Took them apart and put some glue inside the tube, at the point there the collar and tube meets. A thick layer of glue, and just a thin layer outside above the collar where the fitting is pushing/meeting the collar.
> 
> Aaaaaand, it seems like it's working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10-15 minutes now without a single drop anywhere.
> 
> The feeling of having a "leakfree" loop is amazing, almost undescribable! Feels so weird somehow too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Summary: glue can solve many problems.


Been there, done that, got the bricked mobo to prove it. The glue will continue to contract and become gooey and create new leaks. I know because I repaired mine the first time it happened, and it was fine for a few days, but the second time around it wasn't slow leaks, it was a disaster. You were lucky enough to get a warning with no really bad consequences, maybe, like me, the second time around you won't be so lucky, For some people, the glue+collar system seems to work ok, in other cases it just doesn't. If I were you, I would drain the loop, get rid of the fittings and tubing, and redo it with normal compression fittings -- EK, Bitspower, Primochill.


----------



## Ceadderman

Would roughing up the tubing surface have better results? Possibly? I know that some adhesives/glues requires a slighly rough surface for it to adhere and fill in the micro pores.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bandalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Don Key Sho*
> 
> any color in mind. I have a black chrome im not using. you in the lower 48?


I'm looking for a blue one. I'm still waiting for my case, so I have time. I want to make sure it matches all the Monsoon fittings I just bought!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Been there, done that, got the bricked mobo to prove it. The glue will continue to contract and become gooey and create new leaks. I know because I repaired mine the first time it happened, and it was fine for a few days, but the second time around it wasn't slow leaks, it was a disaster. You were lucky enough to get a warning with no really bad consequences, maybe, like me, the second time around you won't be so lucky, For some people, the glue+collar system seems to work ok, in other cases it just doesn't. If I were you, I would drain the loop, get rid of the fittings and tubing, and redo it with normal compression fittings -- EK, Bitspower, Primochill.


This is not glue it is a adhesive that bonds or welds the 2 parts together so I do not know what you were using for it to get gooey??? Just because you were not able to use this system correctly does not make it a bad system I used it and had a couple of user induced leaks by having too much strain on the collars. but it worked great for me this time I am using the economy fittings as they have more forgiveness to some one that is not a very good bender.. Monsoon products are great and if not use the collars and tube then I would use the economy fittings they are great also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Sadly I got 2 leaks somehow after my loops were finished and up and running
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No cracked collars, but something made them leaking, one were leaking slow and the other one started to leak faster and faster.
> 
> Took them apart and put some glue inside the tube, at the point there the collar and tube meets. A thick layer of glue, and just a thin layer outside above the collar where the fitting is pushing/meeting the collar.
> 
> Aaaaaand, it seems like it's working
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10-15 minutes now without a single drop anywhere.
> 
> The feeling of having a "leakfree" loop is amazing, almost undescribable! Feels so weird somehow too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Summary: glue can solve many problems.


I would not trust this as the collars can get micro-cracks. You really need to redo that piece from scratch. I would not trust just adding some glue. the odds are not in your favor. the tube and collars are a great system and I did build computer using them. Had a few cracks and leaks. But please do not trust just adding a little more glue as you call it because this is not a glue it is a adhesive that welds the tube and collar together.


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Been there, done that, got the bricked mobo to prove it. The glue will continue to contract and become gooey and create new leaks. I know because I repaired mine the first time it happened, and it was fine for a few days, but the second time around it wasn't slow leaks, it was a disaster. You were lucky enough to get a warning with no really bad consequences, maybe, like me, the second time around you won't be so lucky, For some people, the glue+collar system seems to work ok, in other cases it just doesn't. If I were you, I would drain the loop, get rid of the fittings and tubing, and redo it with normal compression fittings -- EK, Bitspower, Primochill.


I recently purchased the Monsoon hardline fittings and, while I hate to say it, posts like these are beginning to freak me out. The tubing I ordered on PPCs yesterday just so happened to be out of stock, so I can either wait for it to come back in stock and stick with the hardline chain gun fittings, or I can get a refund on the tubing and then hopefully a refund on the fittings, and go a different route.

I love the look of the hardline chain gun fittings, but I've got way too much money in this custom build and I couldn't possibly replace it anytime soon. Also, this is my first ever attempt at using hard tubing on a build (second attempt at water cooling ever), so I'd hate for my inexperience to be the cause of an issue.

Am I psyching myself out, or should I consider a different set of fittings/tubing? Either way, I believe I need to stick with hard tubing because some of the turns I think would be too tight for flexible tubing.

EDIT: seross69 replied right before I did, and their post puts me a bit more at ease.


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Been there, done that, got the bricked mobo to prove it. The glue will continue to contract and become gooey and create new leaks. I know because I repaired mine the first time it happened, and it was fine for a few days, but the second time around it wasn't slow leaks, it was a disaster. You were lucky enough to get a warning with no really bad consequences, maybe, like me, the second time around you won't be so lucky, For some people, the glue+collar system seems to work ok, in other cases it just doesn't. If I were you, I would drain the loop, get rid of the fittings and tubing, and redo it with normal compression fittings -- EK, Bitspower, Primochill.


So the fact that you are not able to make monsoon hardline fittings work for whatever reason, means that you think everybody else should just abandon those monsoon fittings ?

Just to let you know I have had mine up and running for 1½ now never got a leak, so maybe there is a chance that you are just doing it wrong when you use them ??

Ps. if you don't trust the uv-glue why don't you just try out a different kind or even weld the collar and tube together with Methylene Chloride....? it's not that difficult to use


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> I recently purchased the Monsoon hardline fittings and, while I hate to say it, posts like these are beginning to freak me out. The tubing I ordered on PPCs yesterday just so happened to be out of stock, so I can either wait for it to come back in stock and stick with the hardline chain gun fittings, or I can get a refund on the tubing and then hopefully a refund on the fittings, and go a different route.
> 
> I love the look of the hardline chain gun fittings, but I've got way too much money in this custom build and I couldn't possibly replace it anytime soon. Also, this is my first ever attempt at using hard tubing on a build (second attempt at water cooling ever), so I'd hate for my inexperience to be the cause of an issue.
> 
> Am I psyching myself out, or should I consider a different set of fittings/tubing? Either way, I believe I need to stick with hard tubing because some of the turns I think would be too tight for flexible tubing.
> 
> EDIT: seross69 replied right before I did, and their post puts me a bit more at ease.


Just take your time be prepared to waste a lot of tubing and do not get in a hurry and everything will be ok!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> I recently purchased the Monsoon hardline fittings and, while I hate to say it, posts like these are beginning to freak me out. The tubing I ordered on PPCs yesterday just so happened to be out of stock, so I can either wait for it to come back in stock and stick with the hardline chain gun fittings, or I can get a refund on the tubing and then hopefully a refund on the fittings, and go a different route.
> 
> I love the look of the hardline chain gun fittings, but I've got way too much money in this custom build and I couldn't possibly replace it anytime soon. Also, this is my first ever attempt at using hard tubing on a build (second attempt at water cooling ever), so I'd hate for my inexperience to be the cause of an issue.
> 
> Am I psyching myself out, or should I consider a different set of fittings/tubing? Either way, I believe I need to stick with hard tubing because some of the turns I think would be too tight for flexible tubing.
> 
> EDIT: seross69 replied right before I did, and their post puts me a bit more at ease.
> 
> 
> 
> Just take your time be prepared to waste a lot of tubing and do not get in a hurry and everything will be ok!!
Click to expand...

Can't agree more. +1 for advice on patience.









Also start with longest runs first. Should be less waste as you can use wasted tubing for the shorter runs later.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> I recently purchased the Monsoon hardline fittings and, while I hate to say it, posts like these are beginning to freak me out. The tubing I ordered on PPCs yesterday just so happened to be out of stock, so I can either wait for it to come back in stock and stick with the hardline chain gun fittings, or I can get a refund on the tubing and then hopefully a refund on the fittings, and go a different route.
> 
> I love the look of the hardline chain gun fittings, but I've got way too much money in this custom build and I couldn't possibly replace it anytime soon. Also, this is my first ever attempt at using hard tubing on a build (second attempt at water cooling ever), so I'd hate for my inexperience to be the cause of an issue.
> 
> Am I psyching myself out, or should I consider a different set of fittings/tubing? Either way, I believe I need to stick with hard tubing because some of the turns I think would be too tight for flexible tubing.
> 
> EDIT: seross69 replied right before I did, and their post puts me a bit more at ease.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can't agree more. +1 for advice on patience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also start with longest runs first. Should be less waste as you can use wasted tubing for the shorter runs later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


This is my second time to use the hard line, I am using the economy fittings this time but as you can see from below I wasted better than 2 foot of tubing trying to do my motherboard/ GPU, Memory and CPU..



But ended up with this. Does not look the best but it is ok to me anyway!!



Do you think I need to change the black 90 fittings out to the blood red ones?? the colors are black and blood red???


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just take your time be prepared to waste a lot of tubing and do not get in a hurry and everything will be ok!!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can't agree more. +1 for advice on patience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also start with longest runs first. Should be less waste as you can use wasted tubing for the shorter runs later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks, guys. I guess I was just freaking myself out, and after I re-watched Gene's video on attaching the collars to the tubes he said don't worry if you put too much glue on there because it's not a big deal. Well, I am likely going to be putting some extra glue on there, on purpose.









I definitely ordered a ton of tubing now that I know the color I want to go with, and I already had a few throwaway pieces from beforehand that I've tried bending just to make sure I knew what I was in for. Surprisingly, it wasn't all that difficult to get several bends in close proximity to each other without affecting one another.

My biggest concern is that if a leak does occur there are several points where it will be able to drip onto the motherboard because it's laying flat (Thermaltake Core X9), so it just makes me more susceptible to something (or everything) going up in smoke because of a little unnoticed drip. I plan to leak test the thing for at least 72 hours before applying any power to it.


----------



## Benjiw

So don't stress the collars? Even though that's the point of them... and just be patient? Starting to get the feeling I should of returned these fittings a long time ago







Anyway, I didn't get chance today will be starting tomorrow instead. I have 4 tubes to use so 2 tubes for waste if it all goes wrong. I doubt I'll be using more than 1 and a half of the tubes I have at hand.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> So don't stress the collars? Even though that's the point of them... and just be patient? Starting to get the feeling I should of returned these fittings a long time ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, I didn't get chance today will be starting tomorrow instead. I have 4 tubes to use so 2 tubes for waste if it all goes wrong. I doubt I'll be using more than 1 and a half of the tubes I have at hand.


just wake sure you have your bends correct and don't try and make something fit. If it does not line up so that you can just spin the caps on then redo the bend. Dont stress so much. I am not good with things like this. So i have problems but it is cause by me wanting to get it done and not being patient!! just a personality fault of mine!!!


----------



## Deedaz

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> I recently purchased the Monsoon hardline fittings and, while I hate to say it, posts like these are beginning to freak me out. The tubing I ordered on PPCs yesterday just so happened to be out of stock, so I can either wait for it to come back in stock and stick with the hardline chain gun fittings, or I can get a refund on the tubing and then hopefully a refund on the fittings, and go a different route.
> 
> I love the look of the hardline chain gun fittings, but I've got way too much money in this custom build and I couldn't possibly replace it anytime soon. Also, this is my first ever attempt at using hard tubing on a build (second attempt at water cooling ever), so I'd hate for my inexperience to be the cause of an issue.
> 
> Am I psyching myself out, or should I consider a different set of fittings/tubing? Either way, I believe I need to stick with hard tubing because some of the turns I think would be too tight for flexible tubing.
> 
> EDIT: seross69 replied right before I did, and their post puts me a bit more at ease.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can't agree more. +1 for advice on patience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also start with longest runs first. Should be less waste as you can use wasted tubing for the shorter runs later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is my second time to use the hard line, I am using the economy fittings this time but as you can see from below I wasted better than 2 foot of tubing trying to do my motherboard/ GPU, Memory and CPU..
> 
> 
> 
> But ended up with this. Does not look the best but it is ok to me anyway!!
Click to expand...







Do you think I need to change the black 90 fittings out to the blood red ones?? the colors are black and blood red???

I think the black looks great


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> I recently purchased the Monsoon hardline fittings and, while I hate to say it, posts like these are beginning to freak me out. The tubing I ordered on PPCs yesterday just so happened to be out of stock, so I can either wait for it to come back in stock and stick with the hardline chain gun fittings, or I can get a refund on the tubing and then hopefully a refund on the fittings, and go a different route.
> 
> I love the look of the hardline chain gun fittings, but I've got way too much money in this custom build and I couldn't possibly replace it anytime soon. Also, this is my first ever attempt at using hard tubing on a build (second attempt at water cooling ever), so I'd hate for my inexperience to be the cause of an issue.
> 
> Am I psyching myself out, or should I consider a different set of fittings/tubing? Either way, I believe I need to stick with hard tubing because some of the turns I think would be too tight for flexible tubing.
> 
> EDIT: seross69 replied right before I did, and their post puts me a bit more at ease.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Can't agree more. +1 for advice on patience.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also start with longest runs first. Should be less waste as you can use wasted tubing for the shorter runs later.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is my second time to use the hard line, I am using the economy fittings this time but as you can see from below I wasted better than 2 foot of tubing trying to do my motherboard/ GPU, Memory and CPU..
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But ended up with this. Does not look the best but it is ok to me anyway!!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think I need to change the black 90 fittings out to the blood red ones?? the colors are black and blood red???
Click to expand...

I got a single box of white Acrylic that's basically reserved for practice. I've pretty much used 2 of them already. Which is fine. Because the best pieces will be used to minimize the waste of PETG tubing. I plan on getting 2 or 3 boxes for when I'm ready to get serious which should be soon hopefully. I can at least tie in my CPU, MB and RAM blocks using the Acrylic for now. PETG wasn't available when I first purchased a year an a half ago. So I can't even get store credit for the unused stuff. So I'll be putting it to use.









I like those BP fittings. I'd stick with em.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think I need to change the black 90 fittings out to the blood red ones?? the colors are black and blood red???


Don't change to red fittings imo, you got the perfect color combo going there.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Don't change to red fittings imo, you got the perfect color combo going there.


Well that is 3 for black and 0 for red and black cost me nothing extra!!! Will be going in a case labs sma8


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> This is not glue it is a adhesive that bonds or welds the 2 parts together so I do not know what you were using for it to get gooey??? Just because you were not able to use this system correctly does not make it a bad system I used it and had a couple of user induced leaks by having too much strain on the collars. but it worked great for me this time I am using the economy fittings as they have more forgiveness to some one that is not a very good bender.. Monsoon products are great and if not use the collars and tube then I would use the economy fittings they are great also.


Whether glue or adhesive, there are a couple of big problems with it: First, it cannot be cured by artificial UV light, only by actual sunlight. Curing it in artificial light will make it harden and look ok, but it will be brittle and crack. You find out that despite looking ok it isn't, when stuff that should remain outside the loop in your PC becomes wet. Also, it has a limited shelf life, but there is no way to tell how long it has been on the shelf; "old" glue will seem to be ok, but will actually be flexible (i.e., no weld or bond), so the tension of the compression ring pulling on the lock collar will move it on the tube and create leaks. This is what happened to me the second time, and from Eucalyptus' description, I believe it's also what happened to him. As for the Economy fittings, they have been discontinued (hopefully Monsoon is preparing for a new and improved version) so they are nowhere to be found.

Other than these few subtleties, your post was spot on.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Been there, done that, got the bricked mobo to prove it. The glue will continue to contract and become gooey and create new leaks. I know because I repaired mine the first time it happened, and it was fine for a few days, but the second time around it wasn't slow leaks, it was a disaster. You were lucky enough to get a warning with no really bad consequences, maybe, like me, the second time around you won't be so lucky, *For some people, the glue+collar system seems to work ok, in other cases it just doesn't.* If I were you, I would drain the loop, get rid of the fittings and tubing, and redo it with normal compression fittings -- EK, Bitspower, Primochill.
> 
> 
> 
> So the fact that you are not able to make monsoon hardline fittings work for whatever reason, means that you think everybody else should just abandon those monsoon fittings ?
Click to expand...

Don't put words in my mouth -- I highlighted what I actually said. I'm glad it's working for you. I wish it had for me. Clearly, because of the existence of old acrylic collars in retailers' inventory, and the impossibility of gauging whether your particular bottle of glue has been sitting in stock for longer than its shelf life, it's not certain that if you follow instructions and work carefully you will get the expected result. Some people may be willing to take those risks, some not, but they should make their choices with full knowledge of all the factors in play.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Whether glue or adhesive, there are a couple of big problems with it: First, it cannot be cured by artificial UV light, only by actual sunlight. Curing it in artificial light will make it harden and look ok, but it will be brittle and crack. You find out that despite looking ok it isn't, when stuff that remain outside the loop in your PC becomes wet. Also, it has a limited shelf life, but there is no way to tell how long it has been on the shelf; "old" glue will seem to be ok, but will actually be flexible (i.e., no weld or bond), so the tension of the compression ring pulling on the lock collar will move it on the tube and create leaks. This is what happened to me the second time, and from Eucalyptus' description, I believe it's also what happened to him. As for the Economy fittings, they have been discontinued (hopefully Monsoon is preparing for a new and improved version) so they are nowhere to be found.
> 
> Other than these few subtleties, your post was spot on.


well you are wrong about artificial UV light as I used a home/pro grade nail curer with a fan and UV lights to cure over 50 of the fittings with no problems!! So do not say half truths about a product you have a hard on to discredit!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Don't put words in my mouth -- I highlighted what I actually said. I'm glad it's working for you. I wish it had for me. Clearly, because of the existence of old acrylic collars in retailers' inventory, and the impossibility of gauging whether your particular bottle of glue has been sitting in stock for longer than its shelf life, it's not certain that if you follow instructions and work carefully you will get the expected result. Some people may be willing to take those risks, some not, but they should make their choices with full knowledge of all the factors in play.


You dont give choices all you give is a biased opinion and do your best to bad mouth the fittings. you are the only person I have seen push this so far. I had cracks and Geno worked with me to solve my issues and helped me correct my errors.... So would you please stop bad mouthing a great product!!!!


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Whether glue or adhesive, there are a couple of big problems with it: First, it cannot be cured by artificial UV light, only by actual sunlight. Curing it in artificial light will make it harden and look ok, but it will be brittle and crack. You find out that despite looking ok it isn't, when stuff that remain outside the loop in your PC becomes wet. Also, it has a limited shelf life, but there is no way to tell how long it has been on the shelf; "old" glue will seem to be ok, but will actually be flexible (i.e., no weld or bond), so the tension of the compression ring pulling on the lock collar will move it on the tube and create leaks. This is what happened to me the second time, and from Eucalyptus' description, I believe it's also what happened to him. As for the Economy fittings, they have been discontinued (hopefully Monsoon is preparing for a new and improved version) so they are nowhere to be found.
> 
> Other than these few subtleties, your post was spot on.
> 
> 
> 
> well you are wrong about artificial UV light as I used a home/pro grade nail curer with a fan and UV lights to cure over 50 of the fittings with no problems!! So do not say half truths about a product you have a hard on to discredit!!
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Don't put words in my mouth -- I highlighted what I actually said. I'm glad it's working for you. I wish it had for me. Clearly, because of the existence of old acrylic collars in retailers' inventory, and the impossibility of gauging whether your particular bottle of glue has been sitting in stock for longer than its shelf life, it's not certain that if you follow instructions and work carefully you will get the expected result. Some people may be willing to take those risks, some not, but they should make their choices with full knowledge of all the factors in play.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You dont give choices all you give is a biased opinion and do your best to bad mouth the fittings. you are the only person I have seen push this so far. I had cracks and Geno worked with me to solve my issues and helped me correct my errors.... So would you please stop bad mouthing a great product!!!!
Click to expand...

I have no interest in discrediting anything. My source for the suitability of artificial light is Geno, on this thread. Look it up if you are interested. This was in response to my report that the glue had failed. I got a nail curing lamp because I saw your post about it and thought it was a great idea. It turns out it wasn't.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have no interest in discrediting anything. My source for the suitability of artificial light is Geno, on this thread. Look it up if you are interested. This was in response to my report that the glue had failed. I got a nail curing lamp because I saw your post about it and thought it was a great idea. It turns out it wasn't.


Well I had great results using it and Geno know exactly what I was doing and how.... If you say it is their I do not have to look it up. But this is my experience and Geno never told me anything other wise and I got lots of help from him including sending my collars to him to have them analyzed in lab to find problem!!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have no interest in discrediting anything. My source for the suitability of artificial light is Geno, on this thread. Look it up if you are interested. This was in response to my report that the glue had failed. I got a nail curing lamp because I saw your post about it and thought it was a great idea. It turns out it wasn't.


Then there is something wrong with his UV light... The glue hardens in daylight, it doesn't even need to be sunny because UV rays are constant. Anyway I'm going to glue the collars on then let them harden fully before attempting to clamp them down, maybe this is where you failed? Not sure, none of us other than yourself where there at the time. If you're saying your glue failed then I would suggest it was because it was either faulty or you didn't give it enough light to harden?

Either way, I'll report back soon with my experience, if they fail I'll throw them in the bin and just get some Barrow fittings from Aliexpress and be done with it all.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Then there is something wrong with his UV light... The glue hardens in daylight, it doesn't even need to be sunny because UV rays are constant. Anyway I'm going to glue the collars on then let them harden fully before attempting to clamp them down, maybe this is where you failed? Not sure, none of us other than yourself where there at the time. If you're saying your glue failed then I would suggest it was because it was either faulty or you didn't give it enough light to harden?
> 
> Either way, I'll report back soon with my experience, if they fail I'll throw them in the bin and just get some Barrow fittings from Aliexpress and be done with it all.


You will not fail


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have no interest in discrediting anything. My source for the suitability of artificial light is Geno, on this thread. Look it up if you are interested. This was in response to my report that the glue had failed. I got a nail curing lamp because I saw your post about it and thought it was a great idea. It turns out it wasn't.
> 
> 
> 
> Then there is something wrong with his UV light... The glue hardens in daylight, it doesn't even need to be sunny because UV rays are constant. Anyway I'm going to glue the collars on then let them harden fully before attempting to clamp them down, maybe this is where you failed? Not sure, none of us other than yourself where there at the time. If you're saying your glue failed then I would suggest it was because it was either faulty or you didn't give it enough light to harden?
> 
> Either way, I'll report back soon with my experience, if they fail I'll throw them in the bin and just get some Barrow fittings from Aliexpress and be done with it all.
Click to expand...

In my case, when user error is a possibility, you can bet it's what happened! I think you are right about the need to be extra careful, if you have a chance to create a mock loop with the finished tubing and run it outside your system for a day or two it might be a good idea to do so...


----------



## Mystriss

I personally can't wait to get on my hard line tubing, if I can make it look half as awesome as it does in my head I'll be thrilled!

My problem is ADD







I'm constantly coming up with new ideas on my mod plans and as a consequence I never seem to get it done to the point that I can start on water cooling lol

I think I'll make a concerted effort to finish up my current "new" projects and get serious about water cooling. Then I can totally pester for the missing parts for my MMRS ~cackles~


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I personally can't wait to get on my hard line tubing, if I can make it look half as awesome as it does in my head I'll be thrilled!
> 
> My problem is ADD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm constantly coming up with new ideas on my mod plans and as a consequence I never seem to get it done to the point that I can start on water cooling lol
> 
> I think I'll make a concerted effort to finish up my current "new" projects and get serious about water cooling. Then I can totally pester for the missing parts for my MMRS ~cackles~


It's kind of like waiting for next gen hardware, at what point do you just dive in and do it, or keep waiting... and waiting... and waiting...

At the completion of every loop us enthusiasts are already planning the next, just the way it works.


----------



## Mystriss

True that. Still I've been planning to water cool with Hardline for at least 2, maybe even 3 years - it's ridiculous. heh


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Then there is something wrong with his UV light... The glue hardens in daylight, it doesn't even need to be sunny because UV rays are constant. Anyway I'm going to glue the collars on then let them harden fully before attempting to clamp them down, maybe this is where you failed? Not sure, none of us other than yourself where there at the time. If you're saying your glue failed then I would suggest it was because it was either faulty or you didn't give it enough light to harden?
> 
> Either way, I'll report back soon with my experience, if they fail I'll throw them in the bin and just get some Barrow fittings from Aliexpress and be done with it all.
> 
> 
> 
> You will not fail
Click to expand...

To be fair to *all* parties involved in this discussion and Geno, he has said (iirc) in his YouTube tutorial that he recommends using sunlight to cure the adhesive over all other methods. But he did also say (again, iirc) that sometimes this is nearly impossible in some situations. i.e. living in a metropolitan area where buildings cast long shadows or in the boonies where tress are plentiful and sunlight is a rare occurrence.









I live near trees on the sun side of the apartment. So for me, not wanting to use a UV lamp, it's better to go with Sunlight at the peak hours, 0530AM to 1300 PM, which in and of itself can be rare due to Infant duties during the day.









It's best to simply let the adhesive cure for a day minimum, imho. No sense in rushing things along to gain a sense of how things will look.









I will suggest one piece of advice and maybe this will solve some of the issue. When fitting your hardline to your build, leave the adhesive out of the fitment process until you are *personally* satisfied with the results of your handiwork. Put everything together so that the tubes don't have any slack at either end. Meaning if you can slide it back and forth between the collars, you're short on your run(straight runs) or if you can't wiggle the ends side to side then you may be hanging up in the fittings due to being short. There is a slight gap between the collar and the tube. It's slight but it's there. Check your bends o make sure they're plumb. If you put a level atop the straightest point does the bubble move past either line? If not and you're satisfied with your handiwork apply the adhesive as suggested in this video.














Hope this was helpful to all.









~Ceadder


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Been there, done that, got the bricked mobo to prove it. *The glue will continue to contract and become gooey and create new leaks. I know because I repaired mine the first time it happened, and it was fine for a few days, but the second time around it wasn't slow leaks, it was a disaster.* You were lucky enough to get a warning with no really bad consequences, maybe, like me, the second time around you won't be so lucky, *For some people, the glue+collar system seems to work ok, in other cases it just doesn't.* If I were you, I would drain the loop, get rid of the fittings and tubing, and redo it with normal compression fittings -- EK, Bitspower, Primochill.
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by Malum View Post
> So the fact that you are not able to make monsoon hardline fittings work for whatever reason, means that you think everybody else should just abandon those monsoon fittings ?
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by jvillaveces View Post
> Don't put words in my mouth -- I highlighted what I actually said. I'm glad it's working for you. I wish it had for me. Clearly, because of the existence of old acrylic collars in retailers' inventory, and the impossibility of gauging whether your particular bottle of glue has been sitting in stock for longer than its shelf life, it's not certain that if you follow instructions and work carefully you will get the expected result. Some people may be willing to take those risks, some not, but they should make their choices with full knowledge of all the factors in play.


As long as we are highlighting. I have now corloured some of your words and mine in matching corlour just to clear out what exactly that part of my previus post you chose to respond to was meant for.

If you really think that people should make desissions based on all the facts about this product, then why did you choose to leave the rest of my post out ? Was it because it didn't support your theory of Quote:
"*The glue will continue to contract and become gooey and create new leaks. I know because I repaired mine the first time it happened, and it was fine for a few days, but the second time around it wasn't slow leaks, it was a disaster.*"
As if just because your loop was a dissaster you "KWOW" that other people's loop will become one too ?

Finally I'm sorry that monsoon's imo awesome fittings didn't work out for you, and that you had to go with another option of fittings in order to make you build work.
But I do think that it's kind of dissing monsoon in this thread when you suggests people to use "NORMAL" EK,Bitspower or Primochill fittings instead of the "monsoon" fittings, based on your bad experience and claiming that they will leak at some point. If not now then later, because that was what happened in your case...


----------



## eucalyptus

Well, I think those hardlines works just OK if you are just using a few and maybe not as a first time thing







And you are sorting out some things from the beginning and get it all right from beginning too









I have extremely complicated/crucial bends which just screams for problems :









And yeah, I beg to God that my "glue fix solution" won't open up







For now, since I last posted it has been running like 6 hours per day and not a single drop or sign of water







Feels fantastically great


----------



## DNMock

Holy crap 210 pages already?!? This thread is really going places

Anyway, things are starting to get going on rebuilding, just about to start pouring the slab next week and pretty much everything is already lined up to get going. This brings me to my question:

I got an office built into the plans solely for doing some variation of an over-the-top build again. I'm torn between doing another (only much improved) desk build again, a legit built in wall build, or something completely different.

If anyone has any wild ideas, I'm in a perfect spot to give it a go. Best I got at the moment, is to have a dedicated A/C vent right next to and aimed at the rad fans and having them exhaust into the next room over. It will be a good 3 to 5 months before I can really get going all out on it, but before the framers and insulation guys get started next month if someone has a wild idea to throw out, it would be good to have in advance so I can change the plans around to take advantage of it before they start framing the inside up.

Just keep in mind this is a Monsoon thread, so try and limit it to things that could even make Gene impressed.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Holy crap 210 pages already?!? This thread is really going places
> 
> Anyway, things are starting to get going on rebuilding, just about to start pouring the slab next week and pretty much everything is already lined up to get going. This brings me to my question:
> 
> I got an office built into the plans solely for doing some variation of an over-the-top build again. I'm torn between doing another (only much improved) desk build again, a legit built in wall build, or something completely different.
> 
> If anyone has any wild ideas, I'm in a perfect spot to give it a go. Best I got at the moment, is to have a dedicated A/C vent right next to and aimed at the rad fans and having them exhaust into the next room over. It will be a good 3 to 5 months before I can really get going all out on it, but before the framers and insulation guys get started next month if someone has a wild idea to throw out, it would be good to have in advance so I can change the plans around to take advantage of it before they start framing the inside up.
> 
> Just keep in mind this is a Monsoon thread, so try and limit it to things that could even make Gene impressed.


Youre telling me... >..>
Ha. Good luck on the new projects everyone.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Holy crap 210 pages already?!? This thread is really going places
> 
> Anyway, things are starting to get going on rebuilding, just about to start pouring the slab next week and pretty much everything is already lined up to get going. This brings me to my question:
> 
> I got an office built into the plans solely for doing some variation of an over-the-top build again. I'm torn between doing another (only much improved) desk build again, a legit built in wall build, or something completely different.
> 
> If anyone has any wild ideas, I'm in a perfect spot to give it a go. Best I got at the moment, is to have a dedicated A/C vent right next to and aimed at the rad fans and having them exhaust into the next room over. It will be a good 3 to 5 months before I can really get going all out on it, but before the framers and insulation guys get started next month if someone has a wild idea to throw out, it would be good to have in advance so I can change the plans around to take advantage of it before they start framing the inside up.
> 
> Just keep in mind this is a Monsoon thread, so try and limit it to things that could even make Gene impressed.


I totally pondered doing an intake from the exterior of my house (I'm in Alaska so it's almost always cool outside (I think our typical highest temp is like 72 and there's no such thing as air conditioning up here) However, we replaced all our windows, doors, insulation, and tyvek'ed (w/e the correct spelling of the house wrap is) and I find it's now /much/ cooler inside than outside during the summer so I abandoned that idea heh

I am however planning to put a bunch of stuff in the wall when I remodel my recording studio - all the wires (it'll have a mini-home theater) including all the connections I currently have on my "stereo rack" build between my two PC components and my A/V receiver, yep even the water cooling tubes.

I'm not much help I'm afraid, I could go a hundred different directions with a completely blank slate; custom wall alcoves all molded out so each individual component looks like art. A built-in reservoir waterfall art looking thing that appears to "spill" onto the monitor(s). A combo desk build / wall built with aesthetically pleasing bits on the wall the rest in the desk. You could do water cooling tube art on the wall or make the "legs" of your desk the res. A built in fold out desk with the rig in the desk (space-saver idea.) Or an "invisible" build - 100% in-wall, with monitors and keyboard shelf that all flip out of the wall; if you get a bunch of frame-less monitors you could make it look like a home theater. I've always wanted to do a "shadow box" build (basically a super thin but wide/tall case) - If I wasn't so enamored with my "stereo rack" idea/look I would have gone there instead.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Holy crap 210 pages already?!? This thread is really going places


This Monsoon thread is only 22 pages long for me. 100 posts per page. There is a forum option somewhere in your settings if you want to change it.


----------



## Ben S

New to water cooling and trying to figure some things out to see if I can mount a Style 5 res/pump in this matx case inside the front panel.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-fully-assembled-and-customizable-reservoir-style-5.html

This might be in the thread already but I didn't find an overall length.
Is the cap height the assembled height? These calculations correct?
Length: 29 mm top cap + 50 mm tube + 29 mm bottom cap + pump cover = 150 mm?
Width is same as caps 77 mm?

I don't know if I can achieve the look I'm wanting because I have 81 mm from mounting surface (front) to mb and the mount probably increases that space.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I totally pondered doing an intake from the exterior of my house (I'm in Alaska so it's almost always cool outside (I think our typical highest temp is like 72 and there's no such thing as air conditioning up here) However, we replaced all our windows, doors, insulation, and tyvek'ed (w/e the correct spelling of the house wrap is) and I find it's now /much/ cooler inside than outside during the summer so I abandoned that idea heh
> 
> I am however planning to put a bunch of stuff in the wall when I remodel my recording studio - all the wires (it'll have a mini-home theater) including all the connections I currently have on my "stereo rack" build between my two PC components and my A/V receiver, yep even the water cooling tubes.
> 
> I'm not much help I'm afraid, I could go a hundred different directions with a completely blank slate; custom wall alcoves all molded out so each individual component looks like art. A built-in reservoir waterfall art looking thing that appears to "spill" onto the monitor(s). A combo desk build / wall built with aesthetically pleasing bits on the wall the rest in the desk. You could do water cooling tube art on the wall or make the "legs" of your desk the res. A built in fold out desk with the rig in the desk (space-saver idea.) Or an "invisible" build - 100% in-wall, with monitors and keyboard shelf that all flip out of the wall; if you get a bunch of frame-less monitors you could make it look like a home theater. I've always wanted to do a "shadow box" build (basically a super thin but wide/tall case) - If I wasn't so enamored with my "stereo rack" idea/look I would have gone there instead.


There was a guy on here that put his rads out side and could cool his system good like this and did a lot of benching during the winter when it was cold out side!!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben S*
> 
> New to water cooling and trying to figure some things out to see if I can mount a Style 5 res/pump in this matx case inside the front panel.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-fully-assembled-and-customizable-reservoir-style-5.html
> 
> This might be in the thread already but I didn't find an overall length.
> Is the cap height the assembled height? These calculations correct?
> Length: 29 mm top cap + 50 mm tube + 29 mm bottom cap + pump cover = 150 mm?
> Width is same as caps 77 mm?
> 
> I don't know if I can achieve the look I'm wanting because I have 81 mm from mounting surface (front) to mb and the mount probably increases that space.


The measurements are back on this page. The fill/drain port is meant to mount outside of the case and can be used as the res mount. If you aren't looking to drill a hole in your case then use one of the other end caps. I would suggest piecing it out and building it yourself, it's really pretty easy.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> I'm guessing that across the entire loop, this part would have a pretty insignificant impact. I'll trade the 0.25C higher temps for no constant splashing noise though!


Well that works for me then as I like the idea as a design concept..

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I have a MMRS that includes Triple Port End Cap at the bottom (feeding the pumps using a flex tube length about 25cm) and a Tube Coupler in the middle (50mm tube about the coupler, 50mm tube below the coupler). The water will be flowing back into the res using the coupler.
> 
> *Qs ...*
> 
> will this cause a vortex?
> 
> if so, will a trident help with the 3-port exit (only one of which will feed the pumps)?
> 
> if so, how do I get a trident?


There are two types of tridents. One screws onto the TRP end cap and ships with it, (it is "bolted" to the TRP with three screws). The second is a press in version that will fit into any end cap or coupler that is included with the mating kit and also comes as a stand alone product. Performance should have the second type in a few weeks. You can tinker with it in the MMRS pats models for Sketchup. Download link:

http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Boxgod, check This out. I spoke with Duke at Performance today and he informed me of this. I guess my inquiry prompted the change. Duke went 10 steps and above to help me ensure I got the right part.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to Duke at Performance.
> 
> Al


Duke is awesome to work with =)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Got some parts in...
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need the D5 pump covers to come back in stock.
> 
> Once it does, I had a question. Suppose I wanted to leak test the new pump/res combo for a while. If I just rig up a loop from the pump outlet to the top and fill it up with DI water, how long could I run this before heat became a problem? I'm not sure how much heat the pump actually dumps into the loop, and if ambient losses would be enough to overcome it. It'd be nice to have this completely leak tested before my case arrives and I get into the messy parts of the build.


I have done this many many times and left it running all day without issue. I *highly* recommend leak testing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Gunna be hardlining my build today, any tips on how much of that UV glue to use on the collars so I don't get leaks like @eucalyptus got?


You can watch a pretty good video on the UV cure adhesive at the link below. Sorry about the "Shaky Cam". Seemed like a good idea at the time but obviously wasn't =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Been there, done that, got the bricked mobo to prove it. The glue will continue to contract and become gooey and create new leaks. I know because I repaired mine the first time it happened, and it was fine for a few days, but the second time around it wasn't slow leaks, it was a disaster. You were lucky enough to get a warning with no really bad consequences, maybe, like me, the second time around you won't be so lucky, For some people, the glue+collar system seems to work ok, in other cases it just doesn't. If I were you, I would drain the loop, get rid of the fittings and tubing, and redo it with normal compression fittings -- EK, Bitspower, Primochill.


And yet there are 20,000 plus Hard Line fittings in service around the world without issue. Our RMA rate is under 1% I understand you had a bad experience and I am certainly sorry about that. I was also more than willing to work with you to figure out what went wrong.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Well that works for me then as I like the idea as a design concept..
> There are two types of tridents. One screws onto the TRP end cap and ships with it, (it is "bolted" to the TRP with three screws). The second is a press in version that will fit into any end cap or coupler that is included with the mating kit and also comes as a stand alone product. Performance should have the second type in a few weeks. You can tinker with it in the MMRS pats models for Sketchup. Download link:
> 
> http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar
> Duke is awesome to work with =)
> I have done this many many times and left it running all day without issue. I *highly* recommend leak testing.
> You can watch a pretty good video on the UV cure adhesive at the link below. Sorry about the "Shaky Cam". Seemed like a good idea at the time but obviously wasn't =)


Watched it a few times but not sure what to do now as I've been screwed over by 15mm of clearance in the Define S's roof will probably have to buy some replacement collars to finish the job in summer. Why do case designers keep making cases with 55mm clearance for watercooling cases when most of us use thicker rads....


----------



## Bandalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have done this many many times and left it running all day without issue. I *highly* recommend leak testing.


Sounds good...now if only PPC would get the blue D5 covers in stock, I could get this party started...


----------



## seross69

@BoxGods

Have you discontinued the economy hardline fittings???


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would roughing up the tubing surface have better results? Possibly? I know that some adhesives/glues requires a slighly rough surface for it to adhere and fill in the micro pores.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No roughing is required with the UV cure adhesive unless you are using it on copper or stainless tube (especially if it is chrome plated).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> @BoxGods
> 
> Have you discontinued the economy hardline fittings???


Yes. I never liked that designs mechanics so I went back to the drawing board. The new ones will be out shortly--just finishing up the packaging now. They will come in a six and 12 pack. They are easier to use, fit a wider range of tube sizes, and hold MUCH better than the original design.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> No roughing is required with the UV cure adhesive unless you are using it on copper or stainless tube (especially if it is chrome plated).
> Yes. I never liked that designs mechanics so I went back to the drawing board. The new ones will be out shortly--just finishing up the packaging now. They will come in a six and 12 pack. They are easier to use, fit a wider range of tube sizes, and hold MUCH better than the original design.


Yeahhhhh. Glad to hear this!!!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Would roughing up the tubing surface have better results? Possibly? I know that some adhesives/glues requires a slighly rough surface for it to adhere and fill in the micro pores.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No roughing is required with the UV cure adhesive unless you are using it on copper or stainless tube (especially if it is chrome plated).
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> @BoxGods
> 
> Have you discontinued the economy hardline fittings???
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes. I never liked that designs mechanics so I went back to the drawing board. The new ones will be out shortly--just finishing up the packaging now. They will come in a six and 12 pack. They are easier to use, fit a wider range of tube sizes, and hold MUCH better than the original design.
Click to expand...

I'll be doing hardlines in a few months, I'll have to watch for these.







Any word on extensions yet


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> No roughing is required with the UV cure adhesive unless you are using it on copper or stainless tube (especially if it is chrome plated).
> Yes. I never liked that designs mechanics so I went back to the drawing board. The new ones will be out shortly--just finishing up the packaging now. They will come in a six and 12 pack. They are easier to use, fit a wider range of tube sizes, and hold MUCH better than the original design.


Finding it hard to source replacement collars for 16mm hardline here in the UK, haven't discontinued the hardlines with collars have you? I'll bend my runs tomorrow and post some pics. In the video you say if the day is overcast how long would you estimate the adhesive to cure? Need the rig up and running for university work you see so just wanted to ask.


----------



## BoxGods

On the UV cure adhesive used with our Premium Hard Line fittings. It can be cured with artificial UV light provided your light can produce wavelengths in the correct range--about 250nm to 320nm. The problem with using UV cure lights marketed as "Nail Dryers" is that most do not list what wavelength light they produce and they tend to be closer to the visible light spectrum--over 380nm.

Because there is no reliable way to know what these lights are outputting I always try to discourage their use as it can be hit or miss. There are UV lights designed specifically for curing UV adhesives but these tend to be expensive and require special safety equipment--skin covering and eye protection are a must.

My official recommendation is to use sunlight. It does NOT have to be full direct noon sun. It can be an overcast day or cloudy day and the cure will still happen just fine. If you are at all worried that there is not enough UV on your particular day just leave the tubes out longer. In direct sunlight the cure happens in about 3 minutes per side (just rotate the part 180 degrees after 3 minutes). If you are worried leave them out for 10 minutes or 15 minutes per side.

Also, for the record. Since we made the switch to Poly Carbonate lock collars--coming up on almost a year ago--I have not hat even one single customer report ANY issues with cracks.

Lastly. One thing I refuse to do is ever "blame" a customer for user error. I may want to sometimes to be candid but really if the customer doesn't feel like he has gotten value for his money then that is a fail. That being said, sometimes no matter how hard you try a customer who has had an issue will never feel like it was resolved and if they want to vent or complain or anything like that...it really is their right. I very much appreciate those of you who have commented that you have had good results with Hardline fittings but there is never any need to "pile on" someone who doesn't agree.

We are all friends here =)


----------



## Mega Man

BoxGods is a bigger man then I


----------



## BoxGods

Nah just older =)

Stuff that seems Earth shattering at 20 is viewed a lot differently at 50.


----------



## Mega Man

No, you are, trust me.


----------



## BoxGods

So...anyone else get goose bumps watching Spacex finally stick the landing on "Of Course I Still Love You"?


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Also, for the record. Since we made the switch to Poly Carbonate lock collars--coming up on almost a year ago--I have not hat even one single customer report ANY issues with cracks.


This is an incredibly re-assuring statement, as I have still been struggling (even after posting in this thread the other day) with whether I should stick with these Monsoon chain gun hardline fittings or not, because I've already made the purchase. This is mostly due to my inexperience with hard tubing since I know I'm going to have some longer tubes with potentially 3-4 bends in them, and if I can't keep them straight to ensure a nice flush connection, then I'm afraid of a leak. Honestly, it wouldn't be such a big deal if I didn't have so much money in this build, because, at the moment, I certainly cannot replace the hardware if something happens to it. However, I understand that, ultimately, it's going to come down to me quadruple checking my bends and ensuring that things are nice and flush before locking everything in place, and then leak testing for, perhaps, several days before I'm comfortable with my work.

Now if only the MMRS vertical mounts would show up for sale somewhere... those things are about as elusive as a unicorn.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Nah just older =)
> 
> Stuff that seems Earth shattering at 20 is viewed a lot differently at 50.


boy aint that the truth


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> This is an incredibly re-assuring statement, as I have still been struggling (even after posting in this thread the other day) with whether I should stick with these Monsoon chain gun hardline fittings or not, because I've already made the purchase. This is mostly due to my inexperience with hard tubing since I know I'm going to have some longer tubes with potentially 3-4 bends in them, and if I can't keep them straight to ensure a nice flush connection, then I'm afraid of a leak. Honestly, it wouldn't be such a big deal if I didn't have so much money in this build, because, at the moment, I certainly cannot replace the hardware if something happens to it. However, I understand that, ultimately, it's going to come down to me quadruple checking my bends and ensuring that things are nice and flush before locking everything in place, and then leak testing for, perhaps, several days before I'm comfortable with my work.
> 
> Now if only the MMRS vertical mounts would show up for sale somewhere... those things are about as elusive as a unicorn.


If you watch the video he posted it will show you how easy it is to glue the collars on and how they form a nice flat and bigger surface area to form a seal. The video is what made me buy the fittings in the first place but money has only just allowed me to use the very old boxes of fittings I've had for over 2 years now lol.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> This is an incredibly re-assuring statement, as I have still been struggling (even after posting in this thread the other day) with whether I should stick with these Monsoon chain gun hardline fittings or not, because I've already made the purchase. This is mostly due to my inexperience with hard tubing since I know I'm going to have some longer tubes with potentially 3-4 bends in them, and if I can't keep them straight to ensure a nice flush connection, then I'm afraid of a leak. Honestly, it wouldn't be such a big deal if I didn't have so much money in this build, because, at the moment, I certainly cannot replace the hardware if something happens to it. However, I understand that, ultimately, it's going to come down to me quadruple checking my bends and ensuring that things are nice and flush before locking everything in place, and then leak testing for, perhaps, several days before I'm comfortable with my work.
> 
> Now if only the MMRS vertical mounts would show up for sale somewhere... those things are about as elusive as a unicorn.


If you are new to bending tube, or if you are making fairly complex tube runs I would recommend PETG over Acrylic tube. There is a minor loss in clarity, (almost impossible to see with the human eye--even comparing side by side) and you can't polish scratches out of PETG like you can acrylic, but PETG is *much* more forgiving for the built in stresses that come from heating and reheating to correct and adjust bends. PETG just resists HAZ cracking so much better than acrylic.

As a general rule I tell people that if you can't hit every bend with one heat/bend and one minor reheat/adjust cycle than go with PETG. If you are not using the measuring kit to get your routing perfect than PETG. If you have any doubt at all in your bending skills...PETG.

Lastly, watch the how to videos on our channel at least a few times and buy a few extra sticks of tube and a few extra lock collars to practice with. Bending tube isn't really "hard" to do but it does require a little practice. I have watched a lot of new people bending tube here in the shop and not one person has ever gotten it exactly right the first time--and that is even with me standing right there and showing them first. That is because it is a "smart hands" type thing where you just have to do it to understand it.

On the plus side these types of projects are the most fun and rewarding when you DO get the hang of it =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If you watch the video he posted it will show you how easy it is to glue the collars on and how they form a nice flat and bigger surface area to form a seal. The video is what made me buy the fittings in the first place but money has only just allowed me to use the very old boxes of fittings I've had for over 2 years now lol.


If you have two year old fittings you may want to switch to Poly Carbonate lock collars. If you are in the U.S. email me your details and I can send out some replacements.

You also do not want to use two year old UV cure adhesive as it has a 1 year shelf life--meaning it needs to be used before then.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> boy aint that the truth


I love that line from Ray Romano (I think it was him) where he mentions that when 20 somethings get together they talk about girl problems, work problems, school problems...when he gets together with his buddies (all closing in on 50) they ***** about shaving and wonder why their pee suddenly smells like asparagus.

Ray's theory is that eventually we finally give up to our wives nagging and start eating all those "dammed" vegetables.


----------



## Mystriss

Is there a temperature range for curing the UV glue? Like is between say 50-80F okay to leave it out to cure?

Also is bending 1/2" OD about the same "feel" as bending 3/8" OD? I'd accidentally ordered a box of the wrong size and I'm thinking I should practice tube bending Hardline, just wondering if I should tack on another box of the right size Hardline when I reorder the new lock collar conversion kits and UV glue heh (I should look through my mod stuff, I believe I have 3 boxes of Hardline tubes, but I think one of them might be the black I was going to do between my GPUs - with the Monsoon economy fittings







)

Ya know, I'd tried free hand tube bending with some other stuff (not Monsoon, but I don't remember whose it was) a while back and I was just terrible at it so I got the Monsoon bending kit ( inside joke - I totally didn't get the suitcase with mine and I was all sad lol ) Anyway, I think the bending kit is gonna help me a lot, but I should still practice from the sound of it. I'm actually getting close to time, almost done with my custom made ribbon cables so I can finish my light tray and get that permanently installed - that is the last step I needed to get done before I started water cooling stuff, ah well i guess I might need to bend a new aluminum panel to position the MMRS dual res in the front, but with my new brake (or is it break?) that's only going to take a few minutes to do... I think...


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Also, for the record. Since we made the switch to Poly Carbonate lock collars--coming up on almost a year ago--I have not hat even one single customer report ANY issues with cracks.
> 
> 
> 
> This is an incredibly re-assuring statement, as I have still been struggling (even after posting in this thread the other day) with whether I should stick with these Monsoon chain gun hardline fittings or not, because I've already made the purchase. This is mostly due to my inexperience with hard tubing since I know I'm going to have some longer tubes with potentially 3-4 bends in them, and if I can't keep them straight to ensure a nice flush connection, then I'm afraid of a leak. Honestly, it wouldn't be such a big deal if I didn't have so much money in this build, because, at the moment, I certainly cannot replace the hardware if something happens to it. However, I understand that, ultimately, it's going to come down to me quadruple checking my bends and ensuring that things are nice and flush before locking everything in place, and then leak testing for, perhaps, several days before I'm comfortable with my work.
> 
> *Now if only the MMRS vertical mounts would show up for sale somewhere... those things are about as elusive as a unicorn.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
Click to expand...

I've been checking ppcs twice a day for 2 weeks waiting for those mounts lol. Fortunately the guy I'm building for is patient


----------



## Unnatural

There's an online store on my country (Italy) specialized on acrylic and similar materials. They sell an UV-curing bonding adhesive for acrylic (also PC and others) which by its description seems very similar to the Monsoon one. I'm tempted to try it (so at least I can be sure it hasn't expired) but it costs over 40 € for 250ml.


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> If you watch the video he posted it will show you how easy it is to glue the collars on and how they form a nice flat and bigger surface area to form a seal. The video is what made me buy the fittings in the first place but money has only just allowed me to use the very old boxes of fittings I've had for over 2 years now lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you are new to bending tube, or if you are making fairly complex tube runs I would recommend PETG over Acrylic tube. There is a minor loss in clarity, (almost impossible to see with the human eye--even comparing side by side) and you can't polish scratches out of PETG like you can acrylic, but PETG is *much* more forgiving for the built in stresses that come from heating and reheating to correct and adjust bends. PETG just resists HAZ cracking so much better than acrylic.
> 
> As a general rule I tell people that if you can't hit every bend with one heat/bend and one minor reheat/adjust cycle than go with PETG. If you are not using the measuring kit to get your routing perfect than PETG. If you have any doubt at all in your bending skills...PETG.
> 
> Lastly, watch the how to videos on our channel at least a few times and buy a few extra sticks of tube and a few extra lock collars to practice with. Bending tube isn't really "hard" to do but it does require a little practice. I have watched a lot of new people bending tube here in the shop and not one person has ever gotten it exactly right the first time--and that is even with me standing right there and showing them first. That is because it is a "smart hands" type thing where you just have to do it to understand it.
> 
> On the plus side these types of projects are the most fun and rewarding when you DO get the hang of it =)


I have certainly watched the videos several times over the past few months, as well as tried to read every single thread I could about everything related to hard tubing, bending, and fittings. I've also chosen to go with PETG based on what you had said earlier in this thread, and what others have said in recent YouTube videos, and have already done some test bends with tubing that I had lying around after I decided to change up the color I wanted to use (I'm also the guy who sent you the video about the warped tubing boxes).

Now, I do appreciate that you're in direct contact with those who are interested in your products and in need of assistance, however, if I may be critical of Monsoon for a moment and offer some honest feedback...

I'd like to say that I find the documentation for the hardline fittings to be a bit lacking. There is nowhere that seems to address, in its entirety, the order in which all of the pieces are supposed to be assembled, and I feel that this could be confusing to users-beginner or veteran seeing as this is a fairly unique approach compared to how every other fitting out there (currently, and in the past) has done it.

I also say this because of the fact that the package comes with additional o-rings, but there is no mention of this in the package itself that they're extra, and only after searching forums on the internet is one able to derive this information, as well as the order of assembly-however, neither of which is on Monsoon's own website. In the packages which contain my chain gun fittings, the extra 2.4mm o-ring is sitting in the lock collar, and this could easily be mistaken as the place to leave it when assembling these fittings.

There's also no indication that someone is expected to glue the lock collars onto the tubing, or that Monsoon even sells the adhesive separately. The adhesive also does not come with any documentation other than a warning label telling you the obvious-don't eat it, don't put it in your eyes, and don't use it as lotion for your skin. Other than that, there is nothing that comes with the adhesive that indicates when it was packaged, or how it's even supposed to be used, and again, users are supposed to find this information in a single 20+ minute video on YouTube when they could easily read just a few sentences to understand how it works-either on a piece of paper that could come with the package itself, or on your website. Also, without a packaging date (or expiration date), users have no idea that it only has a one year shelf life, which is, I believe, drastically reduced after the bottle is opened (I may be wrong on that last part).

Now, I completely understand that this image can be found on the internet, but again, not on Monsoon's own site (and you've stated earlier in this thread that you weren't even sure who made that image). Also, you do not have a link to your YouTube page on your own site, so people who are searching for official documentation of any sort are left using Google to scour the vast internet for answers-potentially wrong answers-since the installation tips under the fittings section on your site does not seem to lead anywhere (at least when I attempt to use it in several browsers). Of course, the reseller site should assist with these things through their description, but I think if you want to open up your products to more people then there should be some additional information available, direct from the source.

Clearly, I'm currently a fan of Monsoon's products since I've purchased a few hundred dollars worth in the past few weeks (fittings, tubing, reservoir parts, tools, etc), but I think what I've listed above could be improved upon to help make things just a bit easier for those who do decide to delve into this interesting hobby of water cooling, as well as help reduce any damage caused by user error. After all of the forum posts I've read over the past few weeks, what I've mentioned above seems to be repeatedly asked by those who are new to the hardline fittings, and even I was initially confused about the additional 2.4mm o-ring sitting in the lock collar when I received my first package of chain guns a few weeks ago.

I'm certainly no stranger to research, so I was able to quickly figure out what I should be doing when the time comes, but having worked with people and "the public" for many, many years, I certainly cannot say the same for most. However, since I tend to dabble in the realm of videography, I was planning on maybe making my own video(s) to help show how it all works together, if I have the time.


----------



## BoxGods

@MiRai--

Correct on all counts.

To be candid I am generally pretty good at written instructions--Monsoon Two being a relevant example--but when I was working on instructions for Hardline fittings it was pretty overwhelming in written form. It is not as easy to write instructions for this type of product as you might think, so I opted to go with video tutorials. They are not great I know but I do feel like watching it being done on a video is a better form of communication for most people.

We send every reseller links to the videos but unfortunately they don't all put them up on their product pages. They also don't always post the product descriptions I send them. Lastly the Hardlock fittings were never really intended for general use--I really did design them for advanced users. I even added this notice to the product description:

_PLEASE NOTE:

The Hard/Lock capabilities of this fitting do not work the same way traditional push in type fittings do and require an additional step. Although they are not difficult to install, we highly recommend you watch the video linked below BEFORE you make this purchase._

*All of the above said, I do agree that I could have done better by way of instructions.* I just didn't think they would sell as well as they do, and especially not to novice builders. As for the adhesive, the reason we repackage it is that it is just flat out expensive because it is aerospace grade commercial adhesive. We buy it for our shop by the case (four one gallon bottles) so it is about half the cost. As I have mentioned we are a tiny company--literally two Mom and Pops--so we really do not have the ability to generate time stamped labels. When I said my wife hand fills those bottles I was not kidding--she uses a syringe and fills them one at a time.

Our Mom and Pop size is also why the website is not up to date as it is always pretty far down on my to do list and I have to prioritize my time. Not an excuse I know and again I admit it is something that I need to do better at. Honestly...I prefer to be designing new parts and working with customers so I know I am lazy about the web site. I plan to get to it during the summer lull...no really I do...this is the year!

Thanks for the feedback. I have already included written instructions for the new fitting design and they are burned right into the packaging this time so a definite improvement there. They are also an excellent alternative for novice builders or those that are not comfortable with using the lock collars so that should help as well.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> There's an online store on my country (Italy) specialized on acrylic and similar materials. They sell an UV-curing bonding adhesive for acrylic (also PC and others) which by its description seems very similar to the Monsoon one. I'm tempted to try it (so at least I can be sure it hasn't expired) but it costs over 40 € for 250ml.


This is why we repackage it and sell it to our resellers at cost...it is insanely expensive in low volume.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Is there a temperature range for curing the UV glue? Like is between say 50-80F okay to leave it out to cure?
> 
> Also is bending 1/2" OD about the same "feel" as bending 3/8" OD? I'd accidentally ordered a box of the wrong size and I'm thinking I should practice tube bending Hardline, just wondering if I should tack on another box of the right size Hardline when I reorder the new lock collar conversion kits and UV glue heh (I should look through my mod stuff, I believe I have 3 boxes of Hardline tubes, but I think one of them might be the black I was going to do between my GPUs - with the Monsoon economy fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Ya know, I'd tried free hand tube bending with some other stuff (not Monsoon, but I don't remember whose it was) a while back and I was just terrible at it so I got the Monsoon bending kit ( inside joke - I totally didn't get the suitcase with mine and I was all sad lol ) Anyway, I think the bending kit is gonna help me a lot, but I should still practice from the sound of it. I'm actually getting close to time, almost done with my custom made ribbon cables so I can finish my light tray and get that permanently installed - that is the last step I needed to get done before I started water cooling stuff, ah well i guess I might need to bend a new aluminum panel to position the MMRS dual res in the front, but with my new brake (or is it break?) that's only going to take a few minutes to do... I think...


I keep telling you I am happy to send out some replacement lock collars for you...stop being so stubborn =)

Yes bending the two sizes is pretty much the same. Also pretty much the same between colors so you should be fine.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I've been checking ppcs twice a day for 2 weeks waiting for those mounts lol. Fortunately the guy I'm building for is patient


I know you must be getting tired of me saying "soon" but really they should have them up on their site in the next week or so.


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I've been checking ppcs twice a day for 2 weeks waiting for those mounts lol. Fortunately the guy I'm building for is patient


Heh, same.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> @MiRai--
> 
> Correct on all counts.
> 
> To be candid I am generally pretty good at written instructions--Monsoon Two being a relevant example--but when I was working on instructions for Hardline fittings it was pretty overwhelming in written form. It is not as easy to write instructions for this type of product as you might think, so I opted to go with video tutorials. They are not great I know but I do feel like watching it being done on a video is a better form of communication for most people.
> 
> We send every reseller links to the videos but unfortunately they don't all put them up on their product pages. They also don't always post the product descriptions I send them. Lastly the Hardlock fittings were never really intended for general use--I really did design them for advanced users. I even added this notice to the product description:
> 
> _PLEASE NOTE:
> 
> The Hard/Lock capabilities of this fitting do not work the same way traditional push in type fittings do and require an additional step. Although they are not difficult to install, we highly recommend you watch the video linked below BEFORE you make this purchase._
> 
> *All of the above said, I do agree that I could have done better by way of instructions.* I just didn't think they would sell as well as they do, and especially not to novice builders. As for the adhesive, the reason we repackage it is that it is just flat out expensive because it is aerospace grade commercial adhesive. We buy it for our shop by the case (four one gallon bottles) so it is about half the cost. As I have mentioned we are a tiny company--literally two Mom and Pops--so we really do not have the ability to generate time stamped labels. When I said my wife hand fills those bottles I was not kidding--she uses a syringe and fills them one at a time.
> 
> Our Mom and Pop size is also why the website is not up to date as it is always pretty far down on my to do list and I have to prioritize my time. Not an excuse I know and again I admit it is something that I need to do better at. Honestly...I prefer to be designing new parts and working with customers so I know I am lazy about the web site. I plan to get to it during the summer lull...no really I do...this is the year!
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I have already included written instructions for the new fitting design and they are burned right into the packaging this time so a definite improvement there. They are also an excellent alternative for novice builders or those that are not comfortable with using the lock collars so that should help as well.


Thanks for the reply. I completely understand how difficult it can be to keep up with everything at times, especially with such a small crew.

Like I said, with some research on the internet, most things can be figured out, but the thing that still sorta bothers me is that I don't know how old the glue that I currently have on hand is. Is it 1 month old? 6 months old? Did I buy it at 8 months, wait 2 months to use it, and now it's 10 months old and getting close to its expiration date? Is the adhesive level of 6 or 8 or 10 month old glue less than that of 1 month old glue? If PerformancePCs doesn't actually put the new stock behind the old stock, are they selling glue that is past its expiration without knowing it?

These are the things that keep me awake at night.


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> This is why we repackage it and sell it to our resellers at cost...it is insanely expensive in low volume.


Sure, I know and I really appreciate that. Still, the idea of leaking fittings for not being able to know whether the glue has expired or not is scary








Is there any "stress test" - possibly with spare tubes and collars - you would recommend to test the glue's status?

P.S.:

@MiRai are you THE MiRai? (from ISBoxer)


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> @MiRai are you THE MiRai? (from ISBoxer)


That's me.


----------



## Crazy Turtle

Long time lurker here, thought it was about time I joined the fun. I just received a few monsoon parts for my next build - yes, all of that is for one build. The only MMRS parts I am desperately waiting for now are for PPCS to get the matte black D5 covers back in stock. I can't wait to start putting all of this together.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crazy Turtle*
> 
> Long time lurker here, thought it was about time I joined the fun. I just received a few monsoon parts for my next build - yes, all of that is for one build. The only MMRS parts I am desperately waiting for now are for PPCS to get the matte black D5 covers back in stock. I can't wait to start putting all of this together.


Is that white caps I see there???

Can't wait to see someone put up a res with white caps


----------



## Crazy Turtle

No white caps - I think you're looking at the fill ports - being metal, they come wrapped in a tissue paper for protection from scratching.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I keep telling you I am happy to send out some replacement lock collars for you...stop being so stubborn =)
> 
> Yes bending the two sizes is pretty much the same. Also pretty much the same between colors so you should be fine.


/You/ stop being stubborn trying to make me accept "free" stuff I want to pay you for heh See I don't look at the switch over from acrylic to PET (or w/e PETG?) as your fault or anything, I see it as an "upgraded" replacement with better features, something I am more than happy to pay for - I do it all the time, on every other thing I get for my rig. This is like... okay so like my keyboard right, Corsair Vengeance series; I had bought the K90, the next year they came out with the K95 so I bought that, then the next year the K95 RGB came out so I bought that. I wouldn't want Corsair to send me a free upgraded version, why would I make an exception here? Pffft Nope, I'm going to throw money your direction and your just going to have to like it









Anyway, awesome I'll use the 3/8" for test bending then, this means my oops is actually not a oops - I do love it when I'm "right" even when I'm "wrong"


----------



## TobagoCay

BoxGods (and anyone else) - I've got a couple questions I'd like yours opinion on - i've been building computers for a long time but this is my first attempt at water cooling or any serious modding, so these may be some rookie questions here:

1) I'd like to customize a fan grill that I will install on the inside of my case (you can see it to the right of my MMRS). It will be black and red and I'd love to be able to match the red of my MMRS. This particular part is not that big of a deal so painting it would be ok, but for future reference, do you know if it is possible to get a custom powder-coating for a stainless steel part that will match your colors - red in this case? Is there a specific color name or number that can be matched - either for paint or powder coating? Do you have any suggestions on where to get that? I've found several places close by me (Atlanta) where I can get custom powder coating, but if I'm going to go that route I'd like to make sure the colors are as close as possible, otherwise I'll stick to paint and/or "carbon fiber" film. (Note: I'll probably end up losing the red LEDs currently in the case as they seem to wash out the red of the MMRS and of course I'd rather it shine!)

2) I'm still struggling with placement of the res. My current case (Corsair 780T) is not really optimal for water cooling (hope to eventually pick up a CaseLabs Mercury S8), so I've removed the hard drive bays and created a PSU cover from acrylic (bent with a Monsoon heat gun!) and covered it with carbon fiber film, and made a matching panel for the back of the case (otherwise you can see all the SSDs mounted behind it). My plan was to mount the res to that acrylic panel (directly behind the MMRS in the photo) but now that I hold this 200 mm res in my hand I'm concerned about the weight once it is full of liquid and the pump is installed. I'm pretty sure the acrylic panel can hold the weight (which I will test on a scrap piece), but I'm afraid it will bow/bend inward at least a little under the weight. So my question is how much "play" can there be before it becomes a problem with rigid tubing. My plan is to use your ½ x ⅝ PETG tubing and Free Center fittings (red lightport connectors and black compression fittings) and I know that will add some rigidity to the loop, but will a little wiggle (1/4"??) cause a problem? What about pump vibration (EKWB D5 mounted on bottom)? I know there's no way for you to know for sure about my specific setup, but have you (or anyone else) seen anything similar that either worked well or failed spectacularly? BTW - the answer may be to wait for your new rad mounts and mount to the fan grill but for various aesthetic reasons my first choice is to mount to the back panel.

Thanks in advance for any advice!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Is there a temperature range for curing the UV glue? Like is between say 50-80F okay to leave it out to cure?
> 
> Also is bending 1/2" OD about the same "feel" as bending 3/8" OD? I'd accidentally ordered a box of the wrong size and I'm thinking I should practice tube bending Hardline, just wondering if I should tack on another box of the right size Hardline when I reorder the new lock collar conversion kits and UV glue heh (I should look through my mod stuff, I believe I have 3 boxes of Hardline tubes, but I think one of them might be the black I was going to do between my GPUs - with the Monsoon economy fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Ya know, I'd tried free hand tube bending with some other stuff (not Monsoon, but I don't remember whose it was) a while back and I was just terrible at it so I got the Monsoon bending kit ( inside joke - I totally didn't get the suitcase with mine and I was all sad lol ) Anyway, I think the bending kit is gonna help me a lot, but I should still practice from the sound of it. I'm actually getting close to time, almost done with my custom made ribbon cables so I can finish my light tray and get that permanently installed - that is the last step I needed to get done before I started water cooling stuff, ah well i guess I might need to bend a new aluminum panel to position the MMRS dual res in the front, but with my new brake (or is it break?) that's only going to take a few minutes to do... I think...
> 
> 
> 
> I keep telling you I am happy to send out some replacement lock collars for you...stop being so stubborn =)
> 
> Yes bending the two sizes is pretty much the same. Also pretty much the same between colors so you should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I've been checking ppcs twice a day for 2 weeks waiting for those mounts lol. Fortunately the guy I'm building for is patient
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I know you must be getting tired of me saying "soon" but really they should have them up on their site in the next week or so.
Click to expand...

It's cool, I totally understand, it's kinda out of your hands at this point, just waiting for shipping and site updates. It must be a TON of work getting this stuff all together and still finding the time to check in with us and keep the community updated on whats happening. We appreciate your dedication and the amazing stuff you come up with


----------



## BoxGods

I found out why the vertical mounts are not at PPCS yet even tho they have been ready to go for weeks. They were ordered on the same PO as the new molded white parts so the whole order is holding waiting on those to finish. I told them to include the mounts with the next order leaving for PPCS even if it is "out of order". Looks like there is one leaving Tuesday or Wednesday.

So--barring any other unforeseen delays (and this is still possible) PPCS should have them on or about Friday / Monday.

Hopefully.

Fingers crossed.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crazy Turtle*
> 
> Long time lurker here, thought it was about time I joined the fun. I just received a few monsoon parts for my next build - yes, all of that is for one build. The only MMRS parts I am desperately waiting for now are for PPCS to get the matte black D5 covers back in stock. I can't wait to start putting all of this together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that white caps I see there???
> 
> Can't wait to see someone put up a res with white caps
Click to expand...

no white caps in that pic but here is a render of something definitely white.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> BoxGods (and anyone else) - I've got a couple questions I'd like yours opinion on - i've been building computers for a long time but this is my first attempt at water cooling or any serious modding, so these may be some rookie questions here:
> 
> 1) I'd like to customize a fan grill that I will install on the inside of my case (you can see it to the right of my MMRS). It will be black and red and I'd love to be able to match the red of my MMRS. This particular part is not that big of a deal so painting it would be ok, but for future reference, do you know if it is possible to get a custom powder-coating for a stainless steel part that will match your colors - red in this case? Is there a specific color name or number that can be matched - either for paint or powder coating? Do you have any suggestions on where to get that? I've found several places close by me (Atlanta) where I can get custom powder coating, but if I'm going to go that route I'd like to make sure the colors are as close as possible, otherwise I'll stick to paint and/or "carbon fiber" film. (Note: I'll probably end up losing the red LEDs currently in the case as they seem to wash out the red of the MMRS and of course I'd rather it shine!)
> 
> 2) I'm still struggling with placement of the res. My current case (Corsair 780T) is not really optimal for water cooling (hope to eventually pick up a CaseLabs Mercury S8), so I've removed the hard drive bays and created a PSU cover from acrylic (bent with a Monsoon heat gun!) and covered it with carbon fiber film, and made a matching panel for the back of the case (otherwise you can see all the SSDs mounted behind it). My plan was to mount the res to that acrylic panel (directly behind the MMRS in the photo) but now that I hold this 200 mm res in my hand I'm concerned about the weight once it is full of liquid and the pump is installed. I'm pretty sure the acrylic panel can hold the weight (which I will test on a scrap piece), but I'm afraid it will bow/bend inward at least a little under the weight. So my question is how much "play" can there be before it becomes a problem with rigid tubing. My plan is to use your ½ x ⅝ PETG tubing and Free Center fittings (red lightport connectors and black compression fittings) and I know that will add some rigidity to the loop, but will a little wiggle (1/4"??) cause a problem? What about pump vibration (EKWB D5 mounted on bottom)? I know there's no way for you to know for sure about my specific setup, but have you (or anyone else) seen anything similar that either worked well or failed spectacularly? BTW - the answer may be to wait for your new rad mounts and mount to the fan grill but for various aesthetic reasons my first choice is to mount to the back panel.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice!


I have the Pantone number around somewhere but really it won't do you much good because the surface finish and material really affect the final color. The application thickness also has a big effect on the shade. Most plating shops will have a pretty wide selection of "Color Bucks" that they can use to get really close to an existing finish.

If your comfortable spray painting I have used the Duplicolor Metalcast spray paints as they are a very close match--certainly close enough for the inside of a fairly dark (by comparison) case.

Here is a link to the red:

http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-MC200-Metal-Anodized-Color/dp/B000994BUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460351296&sr=8-1&keywords=duplicolor+metalcast+anodized+paint

As for mounting the reservoir...it looks like you are also an excellent candidate for the new vertical mount...from your picture that is actually a textbook example of where it (the vertical mount) will be useful.



No need to suspend the reservoir from the PSU cover that way.


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have the Pantone number around somewhere but really it won't do you much good because the surface finish and material really affect the final color. The application thickness also has a big effect on the shade. Most plating shops will have a pretty wide selection of "Color Bucks" that they can use to get really close to an existing finish.
> 
> If your comfortable spray painting I have used the Duplicolor Metalcast spray paints as they are a very close match--certainly close enough for the inside of a fairly dark (by comparison) case.
> 
> Here is a link to the red:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-MC200-Metal-Anodized-Color/dp/B000994BUM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460351296&sr=8-1&keywords=duplicolor+metalcast+anodized+paint
> 
> As for mounting the reservoir...it looks like you are also an excellent candidate for the new vertical mount...from your picture that is actually a textbook example of where it (the vertical mount) will be useful.
> 
> 
> 
> No need to suspend the reservoir from the PSU cover that way.


Thanks for the info on the paint - that looks like it will work for what I need - will try it and see.

As for the vertical mount, I thought that might work when I first saw it on this thread, but the problem is that I need to position the whole res higher up from the bottom of the case - about 50 mm from the bottom - and the vertical mount just won't do that. I'll try it on that back vertical, acrylic panel and see what happens. If I don't like it by then hopefully you'll have the radiator mounts available and they should do the trick.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Thanks for the info on the paint - that looks like it will work for what I need - will try it and see.
> 
> As for the vertical mount, I thought that might work when I first saw it on this thread, but the problem is that I need to position the whole res higher up from the bottom of the case - about 50 mm from the bottom - and the vertical mount just won't do that. I'll try it on that back vertical, acrylic panel and see what happens. If I don't like it by then hopefully you'll have the radiator mounts available and they should do the trick.


Is there some reason you couldn't use the carbon panel directly behind the reservoir (referring to your picture) with the standard mounts? That way you could adjust the mounting height up/down and also in/out.


----------



## Jidonsu

Are there any plans to make a double D5 pump top that will work with the MMRS reservoirs?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Are there any plans to make a double D5 pump top that will work with the MMRS reservoirs?


you can already use dual D5's with horizontal mounted reservoirs. I will add a dual D5 for vertically mounted reservoirs at some point. Need to get caught up on everything else tho first =)


----------



## Jidonsu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> you can already use dual D5's with horizontal mounted reservoirs. I will add a dual D5 for vertically mounted reservoirs at some point. Need to get caught up on everything else tho first =)


I didn't even think of that with the horizontal mount.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Are there any plans to make a double D5 pump top that will work with the MMRS reservoirs?
> 
> 
> 
> you can already use dual D5's with horizontal mounted reservoirs. I will add a dual D5 for vertically mounted reservoirs at some point. Need to get caught up on everything else tho first =)
Click to expand...

I would like to see a DDC top before a dual D5 top personally. I'm going to have to run the DDC in my upcoming build decoupled from the MMRS and I would much rather have it integrated. Food for thought Boxgods, an MMRS DDC top/coupler that incorporates a waterblock for the pump...?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Are there any plans to make a quad D5 pump top that will work with the MMRS reservoirs?


Fixed for you!


----------



## Jidonsu

Hahaha.

Seriously, I wish I added up the restriction numbers before building a loop that has an EK Thermosphere and two HardwareLabs GTS radiators. Those things have pretty high restriction.


----------



## Mega Man

MEH

my main builds only have quad gpus, and i only use 4 pumps ( not that it is needed, but that this is overkill.net ) ( yes, we are still .net even though some moron in an office thought it would be hip to lose ".net" ..... hate the new website and all its failures ! )

you just need to learn to be like me ! dont care use 4 !

my mitx build has dual ddcs in them ! ( mono block and gpu block ! )


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I would like to see a DDC top before a dual D5 top personally. I'm going to have to run the DDC in my upcoming build decoupled from the MMRS and I would much rather have it integrated. Food for thought Boxgods, an MMRS DDC top/coupler that incorporates a waterblock for the pump...?


It is on the list too. I have even drawn that one up already =)


----------



## NeeqOne

Any info on the ring for the Aquacomputer D5 Pump Mechanics with USB and Aquabus Interface?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> I didn't even think of that with the horizontal mount.


Let me jog your memory =)


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Is there some reason you couldn't use the carbon panel directly behind the reservoir (referring to your picture) with the standard mounts? That way you could adjust the mounting height up/down and also in/out.


I guess I just wasn't clear enough in my original post - that is exactly what I am planning on doing, using the vertical panel directly behind the reservoir in my photo to mount it - I already have the 25 mm mounts. My concerns is that it is not completely rigid like the metal side of the case. It is well secured and will not move, but it is only attached at the top and at the bottom, so it can bend or bow some in the middle (like maybe a 1/4 inch). Without any weight on it you would never know but I was hoping it would be more rigid than it is. I'm going to fill the res up with liquid and mounts it on a scrap piece the same size and see what happens, but I am concerned that with its weight it will pull the panel a bit and bow inward towards the front of the case. My concern and question is will that create problems with the hard tubing? I haven't done this before and so I am a little concerned about movement of the res and what kind of stress that would put on the fittings. As I mentioned, I may just have to wait on the radiator mounts you are working on or fab up something of my own.


----------



## Methodical

Boxgod, I have a question/installation issue with the MMRS-EC-3P. I plan to have the water lines come out the bottom of the reservoir straight down and through the case floor into the lower chamber (STH10) using the MMRS-EC-3P end cap. However, no matter how I orientate the end cap, I can not get two holes to line up parallel with the back wall of the case, so that the water lines going through the case are parallel. However, I noticed the MMRS-SP-3P can be aligned so that the 2 bottom ports are parallel to the back wall of the case (see photo below). Again, is that the intentional design of the end cap? Did I get an older design of this end cap? I plan to order the MMRS-SP-ZP because based on the photo it can definitely be oriented correctly so that the ports are parallel to the back wall of the case, but I really like to go straight from the bottom of the reservoir and not the front, so I await your response.

Thanks...

MMRS-EC-3P


MMRS-SP-3P


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Jidonsu*
> 
> Are there any plans to make quad D5 pump top that will work with the MMRS reservoirs?
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed for you!
Click to expand...

Modular "stackable" pump covers.

Fixed for you!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> I guess I just wasn't clear enough in my original post - that is exactly what I am planning on doing, using the vertical panel directly behind the reservoir in my photo to mount it - I already have the 25 mm mounts. My concerns is that it is not completely rigid like the metal side of the case. It is well secured and will not move, but it is only attached at the top and at the bottom, so it can bend or bow some in the middle (like maybe a 1/4 inch). Without any weight on it you would never know but I was hoping it would be more rigid than it is. I'm going to fill the res up with liquid and mounts it on a scrap piece the same size and see what happens, but I am concerned that with its weight it will pull the panel a bit and bow inward towards the front of the case. My concern and question is will that create problems with the hard tubing? I haven't done this before and so I am a little concerned about movement of the res and what kind of stress that would put on the fittings. As I mentioned, I may just have to wait on the radiator mounts you are working on or fab up something of my own.


As long as the panel can support the weight vertically it will be fine because the reservoir itself is actually quite stiff--it will likely increase the panels stiffness.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Boxgod, I have a question/installation issue with the MMRS-EC-3P. I plan to have the water lines come out the bottom of the reservoir straight down and through the case floor into the lower chamber (STH10) using the MMRS-EC-3P end cap. However, no matter how I orientate the end cap, I can not get two holes to line up parallel with the back wall of the case, so that the water lines going through the case are parallel. However, I noticed the MMRS-SP-3P can be aligned so that the 2 bottom ports are parallel to the back wall of the case (see photo below). Again, is that the intentional design of the end cap? Did I get an older design of this end cap? I plan to order the MMRS-SP-ZP because based on the photo it can definitely be oriented correctly so that the ports are parallel to the back wall of the case, but I really like to go straight from the bottom of the reservoir and not the front, so I await your response.
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> MMRS-EC-3P
> 
> 
> MMRS-SP-3P


Yes we had a new guy who did not know that where the ports were machined in was important so there was a batch with them that way. Pretty sure PPCS should have sold through those by now.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> I guess I just wasn't clear enough in my original post - that is exactly what I am planning on doing, using the vertical panel directly behind the reservoir in my photo to mount it - I already have the 25 mm mounts. My concerns is that it is not completely rigid like the metal side of the case. It is well secured and will not move, but it is only attached at the top and at the bottom, so it can bend or bow some in the middle (like maybe a 1/4 inch). Without any weight on it you would never know but I was hoping it would be more rigid than it is. I'm going to fill the res up with liquid and mounts it on a scrap piece the same size and see what happens, but I am concerned that with its weight it will pull the panel a bit and bow inward towards the front of the case. My concern and question is will that create problems with the hard tubing? I haven't done this before and so I am a little concerned about movement of the res and what kind of stress that would put on the fittings. As I mentioned, I may just have to wait on the radiator mounts you are working on or fab up something of my own.
> 
> 
> 
> As long as the panel can support the weight vertically it will be fine because the reservoir itself is actually quite stiff--it will likely increase the panels stiffness.
Click to expand...

1/4" acrylic is plenty strong, especially if it is attached the metal frame of the case. I have plans to mount my MMRS in a similiar fashion in my new build.


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 1/4" acrylic is plenty strong, especially if it is attached the metal frame of the case. I have plans to mount my MMRS in a similiar fashion in my new build.


Actually the acrylic is less than an 1/8" thick (Lexan - 0.093" thick). What I was trying to say is that the panel has "play" in it because it only has mounting points at the top and the bottom, so if you push or pull on it in the middle it will give as much as 1/4". Granted there won't be much pushing or pulling on it, but I'm a little concerned about the reservoir being able to move like that. Would that concern you?


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> As long as the panel can support the weight vertically it will be fine because the reservoir itself is actually quite stiff--it will likely increase the panels stiffness.


Ok - thanks! We'll give it a try. I guess I'm going to have to break down and order some connectors and fittings - been holding off but now that I see the reservoir in place I think I know more or less how I want to run the loop. This will be a very simple first loop - cpu only. After I get some experience with that I'll upgrade the GPU and put it into the loop. Looking forward to it - should be fun!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 1/4" acrylic is plenty strong, especially if it is attached the metal frame of the case. I have plans to mount my MMRS in a similiar fashion in my new build.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually the acrylic is less than an 1/8" thick (Lexan - 0.093" thick). What I was trying to say is that the panel has "play" in it because it only has mounting points at the top and the bottom, so if you push or pull on it in the middle it will give as much as 1/4". Granted there won't be much pushing or pulling on it, but I'm a little concerned about the reservoir being able to move like that. Would that concern you?
Click to expand...

I would not be concerned I think it will fine. As boxgods said the res will help to strengthen it and give it more rigidity. One of the dirty little secrets of thin materials, people always bash cases with thin metal as being cheap because its not 1/4" aluminum like the hundreds of dollars cases, but once you mount fans, rads, mobos, etc. in a case that's where its strength comes from. the same should happen with your acrylic panel and the MMRS. How many mounts will you be using for the res?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Ok - thanks! We'll give it a try. I guess I'm going to have to break down and order some connectors and fittings - been holding off but now that I see the reservoir in place I think I know more or less how I want to run the loop. This will be a very simple first loop - cpu only. After I get some experience with that I'll upgrade the GPU and put it into the loop. Looking forward to it - should be fun!


Yeah I would not worry about the panel. The reservoir is very stiff in and of itself and the mounts include load spreader bars so point loading will not be an issue. Good luck with your first loop and remember all of this is about FUN...so don't stress on the little stuff too much.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I would not be concerned I think it will fine. As boxgods said the res will help to strengthen it and give it more rigidity. One of the dirty little secrets of thin materials, people always bash cases with thin metal as being cheap because its not 1/4" aluminum like the hundreds of dollars cases, but once you mount fans, rads, mobos, etc. in a case that's where its strength comes from. the same should happen with your acrylic panel and the MMRS. How many mounts will you be using for the res?


Agreed. You should see the structure of a typical air frame or wing before the skin goes on. They wobble so much you think "no way would I fly in this thing" . Then the skin goes on and the structure gains a tone of stiffness.


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I would not be concerned I think it will fine. As boxgods said the res will help to strengthen it and give it more rigidity. One of the dirty little secrets of thin materials, people always bash cases with thin metal as being cheap because its not 1/4" aluminum like the hundreds of dollars cases, but once you mount fans, rads, mobos, etc. in a case that's where its strength comes from. the same should happen with your acrylic panel and the MMRS. How many mounts will you be using for the res?


I understand your point about the system adding rigidity. If this was normal plumbing with PVC and cemented joints I wouldn't have even worried about it, but not having done this kind of plumbing before I thought it was worth asking. I plan on using PETG which I understand is a bit tougher than acrylic, but I've seen how acrylic can crack and that's what I was most concerned about - putting too much stress on the tubing at one of the fittings. Of course, with the Monsoon Free Center fittings it's similar to cementing on a PVC connector.

As for mounts, I'll have two of the standard 25 mm mounts holding the res to the panel. However, I was planning on having a t-connector (Monsoon Lightport) at the pump output with one side going down to a drain port in the bottom of the case. I have an EK pass-through connector that will leave enough clearance on the bottom side of the case that I can keep the slide out dust filter that is down there. I plan on using a ball valve and a plug just to be safe, and I was actually thinking of using black metal connectors for that whole drain loop mainly so it would just disappear to some extent but also to provide another point of rigidity. I though about the Monsoon FDP but it just doesn't work for me in this case.


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Agreed. You should see the structure of a typical air frame or wing before the skin goes on. They wobble so much you think "no way would I fly in this thing" . Then the skin goes on and the structure gains a tone of stiffness.


Good point. In a prior life I use to sell computers to General Dynamics in Ft Worth where they built the F-16s. Saw a lot of crazy things there that made you question if those things were really air worthy. That was the early days of carbon fiber and it was hard to believe that those think skins could hold up but we all know how that worked out - very tough once it all came together.


----------



## seross69

If someone wants some Monsoon fittings for tubing look here

http://www.overclock.net/t/1597381/monsoon-free-center-hardline-compression-fittings-1-2-x-5-8-and-3-8-x5-8 got a good price on them


----------



## Ceadderman

I got some too as seen in my Sig link.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Little update on the CCFL Plugs for those wondering what they look like.

300mm Blood Red with Chrome plug and cap.



Almost there =)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 1/4" acrylic is plenty strong, especially if it is attached the metal frame of the case. I have plans to mount my MMRS in a similiar fashion in my new build.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually the acrylic is less than an 1/8" thick (Lexan - 0.093" thick). What I was trying to say is that the panel has "play" in it because it only has mounting points at the top and the bottom, so if you push or pull on it in the middle it will give as much as 1/4". Granted there won't be much pushing or pulling on it, but I'm a little concerned about the reservoir being able to move like that. Would that concern you?
Click to expand...

No one I knows bashes them for that, stoke of the 30-40 $ cases sure. My storm trooper is a tank @ 40+lbs empty

Steel is heavy and most mass produced cases don't have the quality the al or acrylic ones tend to (not all) that is what most intelligent people complaints are on 1v1 comparisons, not talking about "less informed" people as Frankly they are not worry our time
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 1/4" acrylic is plenty strong, especially if it is attached the metal frame of the case. I have plans to mount my MMRS in a similiar fashion in my new build.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually the acrylic is less than an 1/8" thick (Lexan - 0.093" thick). What I was trying to say is that the panel has "play" in it because it only has mounting points at the top and the bottom, so if you push or pull on it in the middle it will give as much as 1/4". Granted there won't be much pushing or pulling on it, but I'm a little concerned about the reservoir being able to move like that. Would that concern you?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would not be concerned I think it will fine. As boxgods said the res will help to strengthen it and give it more rigidity. One of the dirty little secrets of thin materials, people always bash cases with thin metal as being cheap because its not 1/4" aluminum like the hundreds of dollars cases, but once you mount fans, rads, mobos, etc. in a case that's where its strength comes from. the same should happen with your acrylic panel and the MMRS. How many mounts will you be using for the res?
Click to expand...

Beyond that if you are using normal tubing the tubing elk flex, no issues

Hard tubing the tubing will help stiffen it up

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Ok - thanks! We'll give it a try. I guess I'm going to have to break down and order some connectors and fittings - been holding off but now that I see the reservoir in place I think I know more or less how I want to run the loop. This will be a very simple first loop - cpu only. After I get some experience with that I'll upgrade the GPU and put it into the loop. Looking forward to it - should be fun!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I would not worry about the panel. The reservoir is very stiff in and of itself and the mounts include load spreader bars so point loading will not be an issue. Good luck with your first loop and remember all of this is about FUN...so don't stress on the little stuff too much.
Click to expand...

Very important


----------



## BoxGods

Whoops...I forgot to mention that I just pulled the trigger on the first run of rad mount kits. Available in 120mm and 140mm kits. Two lengths of screws--one for mounting to the rad and one to mount thru a fan to the rad. Kit will include screws in M3, M4, and 6/32.


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yes we had a new guy who did not know that where the ports were machined in was important so there was a batch with them that way. Pretty sure PPCS should have sold through those by now.


Well, I must be unlucky because I have a set of them right now that I just received from Performance. What can I do to get the correctly machined end cap?

Thanks for responding.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Little update on the CCFL Plugs for those wondering what they look like.
> 
> 300mm Blood Red with Chrome plug and cap.
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there =)


More things I must haz!


----------



## eucalyptus

I am back on square one







:/

2 weeks ago, as I mentioned my fittings were leaking, 2 of them. I fixed them up with some glue on the inside. Computer has been running 8 hours per day without hassles.

And this morning, one of them started to drop like insane :0 I have no idea how or why. But I am on it, AGAIN to try fix it







it wasn't struggle free to go water cooling lol :O


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am back on square one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :/
> 
> 2 weeks ago, as I mentioned my fittings were leaking, 2 of them. I fixed them up with some glue on the inside. Computer has been running 8 hours per day without hassles.
> 
> And this morning, one of them started to drop like insane :0 I have no idea how or why. But I am on it, AGAIN to try fix it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it wasn't struggle free to go water cooling lol :O


Dont fix them replace with new tubeing and collars!! You are playing with fire and asking to have major problems if you dont do this!!!!


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am back on square one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :/
> 
> 2 weeks ago, as I mentioned my fittings were leaking, 2 of them. I fixed them up with some glue on the inside. Computer has been running 8 hours per day without hassles.
> 
> And this morning, one of them started to drop like insane :0 I have no idea how or why. But I am on it, AGAIN to try fix it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it wasn't struggle free to go water cooling lol :O


It's probably too late but can you please take pics of where its leaking from and the leak on the collar? Watercooling isn't hassle free at all, air cooling is but the pay off for going with water far outweighs the hassle for me.

You have really complex bends on your tubing so there is probably a lot of stress on where it's leaking from.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It's probably too late but can you please take pics of where its leaking from and the leak on the collar? Watercooling isn't hassle free at all, air cooling is but the pay off for going with water far outweighs the hassle for me.
> 
> You have really complex bends on your tubing so there is probably a lot of stress on where it's leaking from.


Hi









Unfortunately, I don't have the computer available atm. But here's a picture of where the leak is







At least it's on the outside... And not inside at GPU or some other more complicated place
















I can fix pictures on the collar tomorrow







I put up some Monsoon glue on it, but my UV flashlight doesn't seem to work anymore (it have been working great though), could be batteries. So I will be waiting until tomorrow afternoon as I get back, and under mean time both morning and lunch time sun will be directly pointed to the collar, just hope it will be the same sunshine as it been whole week


----------



## BoxGods

Agreed. Not really something you can "fix" if it is not done correctly the first time. I would look closely at the two that are leaking and try to figure out what you did differently from all the rest that are not leaking.

It is pretty hard to bond the caps on in a way that they leak so be SURE it is not a seal problem before you assume it is the collars leaking. If the tube is fairly far out of alignment and you have to force it over enough that it does not hit the base flatly then the seal can't compress correctly. Also check to make sure there is no damage to either side of the seal and that there is no debris present to cause bridging. If the seal is damaged replace it--extras are included with the fittings.

If the seals are undamaged and there is no debris on either side, in the seal channel, or on the end of the tube/collar--don't assume, check/clean/replace as needed--then it might be the out of alignment issue I mentioned. You can sometimes compensate for this by doubling up the seals, (use two to increase the padding).


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I don't have the computer available atm. But here's a picture of where the leak is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least it's on the outside... And not inside at GPU or some other more complicated place
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can fix pictures on the collar tomorrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I put up some Monsoon glue on it, but my UV flashlight doesn't seem to work anymore (it have been working great though), could be batteries. So I will be waiting until tomorrow afternoon as I get back, and under mean time both morning and lunch time sun will be directly pointed to the collar, just hope it will be the same sunshine as it been whole week


Oh it is this build. Sigh.

I am almost positive it is the modifications you made to the rotary fittings. The area you machined into the ends of the rotaries are just too deep. Again--that recess in the end of the rotary (the one intended for the accent disk) is different from the regular end. When you machined a port into that surface the recess is too deep. I wish you had just used the Light Port rotaries from the start as they have ports on both sides.

I know you are tired of hearing me say this but from my perspective--you bought a car, modified it to work as a submarine, then are surprised when there are issues, (leaks). I am all for modding things as that is what we do, (and what you did is quite cool) but when they don't work...not really fair to blame the fitting.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Well, I must be unlucky because I have a set of them right now that I just received from Performance. What can I do to get the correctly machined end cap?
> 
> Thanks for responding.


I will head over to the shop and see if I have two there. Both of these are without side ports correct? Will need you to PM me your address also.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Oh it is this build. Sigh.
> 
> I am almost positive it is the modifications you made to the rotary fittings. The area you machined into the ends of the rotaries are just too deep. Again--that recess in the end of the rotary (the one intended for the accent disk) is different from the regular end. When you machined a port into that surface the recess is too deep. I wish you had just used the Light Port rotaries from the start as they have ports on both sides.
> 
> I know you are tired of hearing me say this but from my perspective--you bought a car, modified it to work as a submarine, then are surprised when there are issues, (leaks). I am all for modding things as that is what we do, (and what you did is quite cool) but when they don't work...not really fair to blame the fitting.


Eyyyyy Geno









I will give you the pictures tomorrow and give you proof of that it has nothing to do with my drilling
















My drilled holes are on the other side of the T fitting (pointing out toward the back of the case)







This side, from the side the leak are coming is completely original and untouched









But I am damn sure it is the collar, because when I had a closer look it was wet and if I am not completely blind it is some green coolant between the collar and the tube. Probably just a bad work from my side, I could've been to fast to glue and put the UV flashlight on it. From what I remember this is one of the last ones I did - re-done, and it could probably have gone wrong.

I do have one tube left and a bag of new PETG collars Gene sent me, so in worst scenario I can re-do the whole tube, but it really is a true pain in the ass... Take one hell of a time to do too, not to mention the patience and concentration needed









I'll keep you updated







And Gene, we are friends, I have stopped blaming you, mostly tired of complaining, and I guess you are tired of hearing it


----------



## BoxGods

You could be right but leaks can be hard to track down thanks to wicking and good old gravity. I base that on tracking down leaks for 30 years in everything from cars to airplanes to refrigeration lines and household plumbing and leaking roofs.

I am also 100% certain that there is no way you are ever going to get a 100% reliable "every time" seal on those rotaries the way you machined them. Period. Simple engineering--the recess on the disk side are flat out too deep to get a reliable seal--even with multiple O rings.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I will head over to the shop and see if I have two there. Both of these are without side ports correct? Will need you to PM me your address also.


Oh this reminds me, I will buy one of these "mis-aligned" SP-3P's you're replacing so it's not a loss to you. I'm going to do an MMRS for my kids rig and alignment is a non-issue


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I will head over to the shop and see if I have two there. Both of these are without side ports correct? Will need you to PM me your address also.


Thanks and correct, they do not have side ports. I will send a PM.

Again, thanks.


----------



## eucalyptus

Okay, so here comes, hopefully some good news.

I did as last time, put some extra Monsoon adhesive glue around, and mostly Inside the collar/tubing.

I did put maybe, a bit too much around outside the collar, so the fitting was a pain to get screwed on.

Here's how the fitting looks like now, mounted.



Unfortunately I could get the camera to really focus on the collar. Not much to see either except a bad glued collar. But it really locked like the tubing had small small crack, but the collar does cover it.

Anyway, as last time, my solution works, for now! I have been benchmarking the system, as yesterday (when everything went wrong). And after 35 minutes - no leaks!
















The water itself for GPU loop is right now 43 degrees celcius. Sometimes it gets high as 45. CPU loop is 39 degrees. Remember, the temps are for the water!!!

And here's are pic for you Gene














As I said, the leak isn't because of my drilling, not now at least. Since, as you can see, it's the original hole it's mounted to


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay, so here comes, hopefully some good news.
> 
> I did as last time, put some extra Monsoon adhesive glue around, and mostly Inside the collar/tubing.
> 
> I did put maybe, a bit too much around outside the collar, so the fitting was a pain to get screwed on.
> 
> Here's how the fitting looks like now, mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I could get the camera to really focus on the collar. Not much to see either except a bad glued collar. But it really locked like the tubing had small small crack, but the collar does cover it.
> 
> Anyway, as last time, my solution works, for now! I have been benchmarking the system, as yesterday (when everything went wrong). And after 35 minutes - no leaks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The water itself for GPU loop is right now 43 degrees celcius. Sometimes it gets high as 45. CPU loop is 39 degrees. Remember, the temps are for the water!!!
> 
> And here's are pic for you Gene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said, the leak isn't because of my drilling, not now at least. Since, as you can see, it's the original hole it's mounted to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


In the first picture it looks like the fitting is cross threaded!! it may be the angle of the picture but this is what it looks like and if it is this could cause the collar to crack and leak.

I still do not agree with just putting more of the adhesive on this to stop the leak. but at least it is in the bottom of the case when a bad leak can not kill your PC. As a matter of fact after looking at your pictures again it does not look like this is even in the case..

If it was me I would replace both o-rings, re-bend the tube and put new collars on it. But I know you are not going to do this!!! good luck with this and wish you the best!!


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> On Temps. For acrylic (PMMA) the transition temp is around 105 C (220 F) and the adhesive is rated to at least that.
> 
> On templates for the mounts. The 12mm low profile (Grass Hopper) mount does come with a template. The regular 26mm wide mounts, (heights at 12mm, 25mm, and 50mm) do not as it is pretty straight forward to measure the distance between these and there is really no way we could have a template for all the hundreds of possible configurations.
> 
> On the Sketchup MMRS parts files. I used WinRar to create the file and it is stored on our servers so I am 99% sure the file is safe provided you download it directly from the link.


This is the error I get, just downloaded the file.

MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar: Checksum error in MMRS_SU_PARTS\MMRS-TR-XXX-XX\MMRS-TR-100-XX\MMRS-TR-100-CH.skp. The file is corrupt
MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar: Unexpected end of archive


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay, so here comes, hopefully some good news.
> 
> I did as last time, put some extra Monsoon adhesive glue around, and mostly Inside the collar/tubing.
> 
> I did put maybe, a bit too much around outside the collar, so the fitting was a pain to get screwed on.
> 
> Here's how the fitting looks like now, mounted.
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I could get the camera to really focus on the collar. Not much to see either except a bad glued collar. But it really locked like the tubing had small small crack, but the collar does cover it.
> 
> Anyway, as last time, my solution works, for now! I have been benchmarking the system, as yesterday (when everything went wrong). And after 35 minutes - no leaks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The water itself for GPU loop is right now 43 degrees celcius. Sometimes it gets high as 45. CPU loop is 39 degrees. Remember, the temps are for the water!!!
> 
> And here's are pic for you Gene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said, the leak isn't because of my drilling, not now at least. Since, as you can see, it's the original hole it's mounted to
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In the first picture it looks like the fitting is cross threaded!! it may be the angle of the picture but this is what it looks like and if it is this could cause the collar to crack and leak.
> 
> I still do not agree with just putting more of the adhesive on this to stop the leak. but at least it is in the bottom of the case when a bad leak can not kill your PC. As a matter of fact after looking at your pictures again it does not look like this is even in the case..
> 
> If it was me I would replace both o-rings, re-bend the tube and put new collars on it. But I know you are not going to do this!!! good luck with this and wish you the best!!
Click to expand...

This. It definitely doesn't look seated well enough to avoid a leak in any case whatever it is. Also there shouldn't be fitting threads showing and there obviously shouldn't be any threads showing on that style of fitting. So there are a couple leak points to worry about imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> This. It definitely doesn't look seated well enough to avoid a leak in any case whatever it is. Also there shouldn't be fitting threads showing and there obviously shouldn't be any threads showing on that style of fitting. So there are a couple leak points to worry about imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The threads are only showing because of the added glue on top of the collar.

And yes, if this one starts to leak again I will definitely replace the whole tube and fittings









**If you have a look at my picture I posted yesterday, you can see there was no threads showing before


----------



## Ceadderman

Ahhh I see. It's hard to see on my lappy.

So if this is the case then personally, I would simply replace the tube. No amount of extra adhesive is going to stop that leak properly.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

That "fix" is not likely to work because the compression ring is resting on all of the extra adhesive and not on the lock collar flange. The adhesive itself is a bonding polymer that gets its strength from the components, (in this case the tube and the collar). It is not intended to be a rigid structural material by itself--especially in point loading.

Having the compression ring cross threaded like that (caused by the uneven adhesive application) also causes uneven pressure mapping on the seal.

Lastly--a battery powered UV nail light (as mentioned in your earlier post) may not be curing the adhesive 100%. That might have been part of your original issue. The extra adhesive you added is going to slowly "relax" over time and the pressure from the compression ring is going decrease...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> This is the error I get, just downloaded the file.
> 
> MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar: Checksum error in MMRS_SU_PARTS\MMRS-TR-XXX-XX\MMRS-TR-100-XX\MMRS-TR-100-CH.skp. The file is corrupt
> MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar: Unexpected end of archive


What program are you using? It unpacks fine for me and a lot of other people have also unpacked it without issue...maybe your download was corrupt and you can download it again? Sorry if that is a lame suggestion, but this kind of stuff is a bit outside my wheelhouse.

Anyone else have any ideas?


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> What program are you using? It unpacks fine for me and a lot of other people have also unpacked it without issue...maybe your download was corrupt and you can download it again? Sorry if that is a lame suggestion, but this kind of stuff is a bit outside my wheelhouse.
> 
> Anyone else have any ideas?


Using WinRAR 5.30. I can extract the files, but don't have sketchup loaded on this computer to check if the images will load. Did try and re-download with same error.
Not a problem currently. Thanks


----------



## Mystriss

On the UV adhesive, I had tried to use some of it to make an acrylic box back when - nope lol It's more like... if you've ever messed with plumbers tape; less "structural," and more "seal" kind of thing. I was originally thinking it was more like what they use to glue fish tank wall's together; but that stuff actually melts the acrylic a bit to make a permanent bond - which would wreck havoc on a system where keeping everything flat to make a seal is a requirement. The "bond" for me was more along the lines of a "film seal" than traditional "glue." Its like... almost like silicone, except its "finer" or "thinner," so its more along the lines of tape than glue to me.

I'm actually really glad I'd done that random failed project because I understand a bit better how the glue is going to perform on my tubes, it completely explained in my mind /why/ getting the end cuts and bends right on my Hardline tube was going to be so key - because if the edge of the tube isn't hitting the fitting connection dead-on flat, then the o-ring isn't going to be compressed evenly against the fitting and tube end, which will ultimately leave tiny gaps for water to seep though.

(Of course, I might be completely wrong about this because my adhesive might have been past its use date and thus wasn't working right







)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> On the UV adhesive, I had tried to use some of it to make an acrylic box back when - nope lol It's more like... if you've ever messed with plumbers tape; less "structural," and more "seal" kind of thing. I was originally thinking it was more like what they use to glue fish tank wall's together; but that stuff actually melts the acrylic a bit to make a permanent bond - which would wreck havoc on a system where keeping everything flat to make a seal is a requirement. The "bond" for me was more along the lines of a "film seal" than traditional "glue." Its like... almost like silicone, except its "finer" or "thinner," so its more along the lines of tape than glue to me.
> 
> I'm actually really glad I'd done that random failed project because I understand a bit better how the glue is going to perform on my tubes, it completely explained in my mind /why/ getting the end cuts and bends right on my Hardline tube was going to be so key - because if the edge of the tube isn't hitting the fitting connection dead-on flat, then the o-ring isn't going to be compressed evenly against the fitting and tube end, which will ultimately leave tiny gaps for water to seep though.
> 
> (Of course, I might be completely wrong about this because my adhesive might have been past its use date and thus wasn't working right
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


"Exactly" is relative. The tube end should be pretty close to square / flat. As long as you are within about .3 to .5mm it is fine. Especially if you have enough adhesive. "Exactly" flat is best of course =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> Using WinRAR 5.30. I can extract the files, but don't have sketchup loaded on this computer to check if the images will load. Did try and re-download with same error.
> Not a problem currently. Thanks


I am using WinZip 15.5 and that is what I used to make the files also.


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am using WinZip 15.5 and that is what I used to make the files also.


Same error for me with WinZip 19.5 Pro 64-bit (Tools->Diagnostics)

Testing MMRS_SU_PARTS\MMRS-TR-XXX-XX\MMRS-TR-100-XX\MMRS-TR-100-CH.skp FAILED
Error: Bad data in file "MMRS_SU_PARTS\MMRS-TR-XXX-XX\MMRS-TR-100-XX\MMRS-TR-100-CH.skp"

I get some free time, I'll install Sketchup and see if it loads.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am using WinZip 15.5 and that is what I used to make the files also.
> 
> 
> 
> Same error for me with WinZip 19.5 Pro 64-bit (Tools->Diagnostics)
> 
> Testing MMRS_SU_PARTS\MMRS-TR-XXX-XX\MMRS-TR-100-XX\MMRS-TR-100-CH.skp FAILED
> Error: Bad data in file "MMRS_SU_PARTS\MMRS-TR-XXX-XX\MMRS-TR-100-XX\MMRS-TR-100-CH.skp"
> 
> I get some free time, I'll install Sketchup and see if it loads.
Click to expand...

The parts should still work, I got the CRC error also but haven't had any problems with the files inside.


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> The parts should still work, I got the CRC error also but haven't had any problems with the files inside.


Thanks, now for the stupid question. How to import the files to sketchup?


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Little update on the CCFL Plugs for those wondering what they look like.
> 
> 300mm Blood Red with Chrome plug and cap.
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there =)


looks awsome








not availble at ppcs yet









how are your inverters for them coming along ?


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am using WinZip 15.5 and that is what I used to make the files also.


FYI - I had the same problem unpacking the file several weeks ago. Unfortunately I'm traveling right now and can't check my system, but I'm pretty sure I was using 7zip. I had no problem using the files/parts that were unpacked, they all seemed fine, but it seemed like there were parts missing. I found what I really needed so I didn't bother you about the issue at the time but I thought I'd mention that delerious wasn't the only one running into this problem.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> The parts should still work, I got the CRC error also but haven't had any problems with the files inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, now for the stupid question. How to import the files to sketchup?
Click to expand...

"File - Import"


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Little update on the CCFL Plugs for those wondering what they look like.
> 
> 300mm Blood Red with Chrome plug and cap.
> 
> 
> 
> Almost there =)


Those look sweet!







I'm going to have to hold off on them though until I move over to a caselabs s8 in a few months. No sense buying the 300's now as I'll be shrinking the res.


----------



## BoxGods

For getting the files in I just use insert component/model or drag and drop.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> looks awsome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> not availble at ppcs yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how are your inverters for them coming along ?


Packaging them now and shipping out today or Monday.

Almost there on the inverters...kind of an involved process.


----------



## BoxGods

Update on a few items for you guys (and Mystress)

First up the D5 mounting tube extension ring for the Aqua.


This is the extension ring added to the mounting tube. It adds 10mm of depth. Shown in raw aluminum--will be available in all the colors of course.


The extensions are "stackable" so you could use 2 or more if needed. Held in place via the same set screws used for the end cover.


A view from the inside of the extension and the stock cover. Again the test sample I used is just raw aluminum--these will come in all 10 monsoon color finishes.

Next up is the mating kit:


----------



## BoxGods

Mating kits:


This is what will be included. Longer socket head cap screws for use with TRP parts, and longer threaded rods / set screws used for couplers.
An open and a closed mating ring so you can mate sections as either continuous or segregated--your choice.
A press in trident. This is for those mating a coupler to the TRP. The press in tridents will also be sold separate in a 2 pack or 3 pack (not sure which yet).
The press in tridents fit inside any of the molded parts--end caps, couplers, FDP, etc. so you can control cyclone action from side ports or splashing sounds.


This shows how the mating kit looks connecting a TRP to a coupler for that "blender" type D5 setup.
They are not screwed together or compressed so the gap is a little bigger than it would be when really assembled.
Also no tension rods in the picture obviously but you get the idea.
I only had one ratty old coupler on hand so I couldn't show how two of those look mated together--use your imagination =)

Next up: Vertical Mounts.


----------



## BoxGods

Vertical Mounts--

Not sure why I picked white to show you guys--not very flashy sorry.


Vertical mount used on an SAP shown from the back.


Same setup shown from the front. These mounts will work for any of the end caps--not just for the SAP.
Shown with the new 12mm tall mounts--which is what they will ship with--but you can use the vertical mount with the 25mm or 50mm mounts as well...not sure I would with the 50mm unless there is another mounting point used on the reservoir...but you COULD if you wanted to =)

These should be arriving at PPCS "soon" as in 5 - 10 days. Maybe less.

I admit I was initially kind of lukewarm on the idea of a vertical mount but after seeing these...I think they are uber sexy.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Mating kits:
> 
> 
> This is what will be included. Longer socket head cap screws for use with TRP parts, and longer threaded rods / set screws used for couplers.
> An open and a closed mating ring so you can mate sections as either continuous or segregated--your choice.
> A press in trident. This is for those mating a coupler to the TRP. The press in tridents will also be sold separate in a 2 pack or 3 pack (not sure which yet).
> The press in tridents fit inside any of the molded parts--end caps, couplers, FDP, etc. so you can control cyclone action from side ports or splashing sounds.
> 
> 
> This shows how the mating kit looks connecting a TRP to a coupler for that "blender" type D5 setup.
> They are not screwed together or compressed so the gap is a little bigger than it would be when really assembled.
> Also no tension rods in the picture obviously but you get the idea.
> I only had one ratty old coupler on hand so I couldn't show how two of those look mated together--use your imagination =)
> 
> Next up: Vertical Mounts.


I don't understand why we want/ need this?, when would we use it?

I live the extension tube however, thanks box gods, note a few d5s are to be on my list for my tx10


----------



## Wolfsbora

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't understand why we want/ need this?


For installation needs, or most likely aesthetics because I'm sure that there are plenty of people that see an attractiveness in it. It's actually growing on me...


----------



## Mystriss

Dual res setup is why I want the mating kit. I've got a splitter ring between the two coupler's in this design to give me a res for my CPU loop and a res for my GPU loop. This not only saves me from having to find a location for a second res and pump, but it looks very noice









In any event, I'll be camping PPCS for parts heh


----------



## Bandalo

The motor cover was back in stock at PPCS for about 10 minutes, and I was lucky enough to snag one.

Ran like this:









For most of the night, only a little leak from a bad o-ring on a stop plug. Now I just need a case to put it in!


----------



## BoxGods

I personally think the "Blender" style pumps are hideous but a lot of people ask for them--even in this thread. The mating kits do a lot of other things too thankfully. Like Mystriss pointed out you can segregate a single reservoir into two or more discrete sections. You can use a coupler and a side facing end cap if you want more than 2 side facing ports, the same with 2 couplers.

You could also use the mating kit if you want a reservoir to very cleanly pierce a surface--like have a reservoir go through the shelf between an upper and lower section in the case, or say have a 200mm long section inside the case and a 50mm section outsude the case as a sort of external reservoir / sight glass.

Lots of other stuff nobody has even thought of yet. I just make the blocks...you guys figure out what to build with them =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> The motor cover was back in stock at PPCS for about 10 minutes, and I was lucky enough to snag one. !


Now all you need are matching blue Monsoon stop plugs =)


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I don't understand why we want/ need this?, when would we use it?
> 
> I live the extension tube however, thanks box gods, note a few d5s are to be on my list for my tx10


As far as segregating one reservoir, it would eliminate the need to two reservoirs in dual loop systems. I'd give anything for a couple of them right now. Been up all night going through PPCs complete monsoon parts list. Boxgod, I'm modifying a phanteks enthoo luxe, opening the whole case completely up and lining it with white plexiglass (white case). This will mean that my monsoon 200mm res would have to bolt through 3/16ths of plexi plus the case metal, is there enough screw in the 25mm mounts to have a little extra to allow for the extra case width or is the mount cutting it close to begin with, any one else used these mounts? Also, I bet there is no way in Valhalla that I could get my hands on a couple of the segregator couplers. I'm going to try to build the best looking and most unique Enthoo Luxe build to date. I'm gonna have almost 4 grand in parts. I've got a Black Ice Nemesis 240GTX® Dual-Core Xtreme Profile Radiator - White for the front of the case. Can you guys recommend a better 240 rad? I've already decided on the top rad, I'm gonna go with the EK 360 55mm rad. All white Vardar fans, 6700k, the motherboard I have narrowed down to two. 1st in the gigabyte G1 gaming with the built in ek vram block already on the board. The G1 has a 22 phase power design. WOW. Should hold a very high overclock.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83UD9983&cm_re=gigabyte_g1_gaming_motherboard-_-13-128-833-_-Product
Second motherboard is the MSI XPower Titanium. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130870&cm_re=msi-_-13-130-870-_-Product
Both boards allow for 4 way sli, I'm putting two GIgabyte Xtreme 980tis. I'm naming the build The Red Snow (Bastard) build after John Snow of Games of Thrones. Who is not dead by the way, the witch brought her back like that guy did when he tried to kill the hound in the cave.

I've seen some use of 3m vinyl the looks like kevlar. What do you guys think about this color for the outside of the enthoo luxe. BTW, I'm ordering the full panel acrylic from MNPC tech this week.
3m vinyl http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R48U1S/ref=s9_simh_gw_g263_i3_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0D7PDGQA1QFJKCF80HPQ&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2437869742&pf_rd_i=desktop

I could do a little black and grey touches to the monsoon res and pump covers. Give me some ideas, any input would be appreciated. If you think it will suck, just say it will suck. Other than just high end parts I wanted to make it stand out and if you'll notice at shows most of them have themes.


----------



## Mystriss

Woot, finally snagged the two matte black motor covers I need for my res before they sold out. Third times a charm!


----------



## Bandalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Now all you need are matching blue Monsoon stop plugs =)


I got a number of 90 and 45 "LightPort" fittings for my upcoming case move. I picked up two "Monsoon Series Two Premium Dual Bay Color Kit - Blue" from PPCS. These nice items have 6 blue Monsoon stop plugs in per kit, and are quite a bit cheaper than the $3 per stop fitting if you buy them seperately. I like the look of the fittings with a stop fitting in one side rather than the "accent disk" version.

Like so:



So, once I do the build, I'll have nothing but blue Monsoon stop plugs!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> I got a number of 90 and 45 "LightPort" fittings for my upcoming case move. I picked up two "Monsoon Series Two Premium Dual Bay Color Kit - Blue" from PPCS. These nice items have 6 blue Monsoon stop plugs in per kit, and are quite a bit cheaper than the $3 per stop fitting if you buy them seperately. I like the look of the fittings with a stop fitting in one side rather than the "accent disk" version.
> 
> Like so:
> 
> 
> 
> So, once I do the build, I'll have nothing but blue Monsoon stop plugs!


Both plugs and accent disks look nice but I also prefer the plug over the disks. They look a bit more "mechanical" and this route you have the ports available if you ever need them down the road.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Woot, finally snagged the two matte black motor covers I need for my res before they sold out. Third times a charm!


Did you have a look at the pics I posted of the motor tube extension rings? Your idea so I was waiting for your feedback before pulling the trigger on a production run.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> As far as segregating one reservoir, it would eliminate the need to two reservoirs in dual loop systems. I'd give anything for a couple of them right now. Been up all night going through PPCs complete monsoon parts list. Boxgod, I'm modifying a phanteks enthoo luxe, opening the whole case completely up and lining it with white plexiglass (white case). This will mean that my monsoon 200mm res would have to bolt through 3/16ths of plexi plus the case metal, is there enough screw in the 25mm mounts to have a little extra to allow for the extra case width or is the mount cutting it close to begin with, any one else used these mounts? Also, I bet there is no way in Valhalla that I could get my hands on a couple of the segregator couplers. I'm going to try to build the best looking and most unique Enthoo Luxe build to date. I'm gonna have almost 4 grand in parts. I've got a Black Ice Nemesis 240GTX® Dual-Core Xtreme Profile Radiator - White for the front of the case. Can you guys recommend a better 240 rad? I've already decided on the top rad, I'm gonna go with the EK 360 55mm rad. All white Vardar fans, 6700k, the motherboard I have narrowed down to two. 1st in the gigabyte G1 gaming with the built in ek vram block already on the board. The G1 has a 22 phase power design. WOW. Should hold a very high overclock.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA1N83UD9983&cm_re=gigabyte_g1_gaming_motherboard-_-13-128-833-_-Product
> Second motherboard is the MSI XPower Titanium. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130870&cm_re=msi-_-13-130-870-_-Product
> Both boards allow for 4 way sli, I'm putting two GIgabyte Xtreme 980tis. I'm naming the build The Red Snow (Bastard) build after John Snow of Games of Thrones. Who is not dead by the way, the witch brought her back like that guy did when he tried to kill the hound in the cave.
> 
> I've seen some use of 3m vinyl the looks like kevlar. What do you guys think about this color for the outside of the enthoo luxe. BTW, I'm ordering the full panel acrylic from MNPC tech this week.
> 3m vinyl http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R48U1S/ref=s9_simh_gw_g263_i3_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0D7PDGQA1QFJKCF80HPQ&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2437869742&pf_rd_i=desktop
> 
> I could do a little black and grey touches to the monsoon res and pump covers. Give me some ideas, any input would be appreciated. If you think it will suck, just say it will suck. Other than just high end parts I wanted to make it stand out and if you'll notice at shows most of them have themes.


I think the screws are long enough. Just don't go nuts tightening them down (no need to anyway).

Case wraps can be very cool when applied well. That snow camouflage pattern is pretty cool--I saved this picture I saw on the news a few months ago of some Japanese special forces guys all decked out in cammo in snow and even neck deep in icy water thinking it would be a cool theme for a mod. Of course now i can't find it.

***edit*** Found it: http://i.telegraph.co.uk/multimedia/archive/03157/potd-south-korea_3157929k.jpg


----------



## Ceadderman

Would love to see Hexagonal or Octagonal fittings Geno. just thought about it and honestly in one of these two shapes, you shouldn't even need a wrench of any sort to fit the collar to the base of a fitting.









~Ceadder


----------



## NeeqOne

@BoxGod, this is my reservoir with the Aquacomputer D5 with the USB. I believe the extension will fit right. With the extension fitted to the D5 pump cover can one still use the vertical mount?


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Did you have a look at the pics I posted of the motor tube extension rings? Your idea so I was waiting for your feedback before pulling the trigger on a production run.


Oh I forgot to post about that, was super excited to finally snag my pump covers (been waiting for months heh)

Anyway, they look great to me, even in that raw aluminum


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I personally think the "Blender" style pumps are hideous but a lot of people ask for them--even in this thread. The mating kits do a lot of other things too thankfully. Like Mystriss pointed out you can segregate a single reservoir into two or more discrete sections. You can use a coupler and a side facing end cap if you want more than 2 side facing ports, the same with 2 couplers.
> 
> You could also use the mating kit if you want a reservoir to very cleanly pierce a surface--like have a reservoir go through the shelf between an upper and lower section in the case, or say have a 200mm long section inside the case and a 50mm section outsude the case as a sort of external reservoir / sight glass.
> 
> Lots of other stuff nobody has even thought of yet. I just make the blocks...you guys figure out what to build with them =)


now i like it, and i can see it, thanks !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Woot, finally snagged the two matte black motor covers I need for my res before they sold out. Third times a charm!
> 
> 
> 
> Did you have a look at the pics I posted of the motor tube extension rings? Your idea so I was waiting for your feedback before pulling the trigger on a production run.
Click to expand...

i like it, i know i am asking alot but now if only we could get a bigger hole in the bottom of the bottom cap ( as there is 2 holes, maybe have a smaller hole and a bigger hole ? )


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> now i like it, and i can see it, thanks !
> i like it, i know i am asking alot but now if only we could get a bigger hole in the bottom of the bottom cap ( as there is 2 holes, maybe have a smaller hole and a bigger hole ? )


The wire holes on the new covers have been increased last I heard, though I was able to get /all/ the cables off the AQ D5 through the smaller holes. (And I mean /all/ of them USB, Aquabus, temp, alarm, and the pump power/ground):


----------



## TobagoCay

Does anyone have advice for a beginner about using metric fittings with imperial-sized tubing - specifically Bitspower Enhanced Multi-Link 16mm fittings with Monsoon 1/2 x 5/8 hardline (either acrylic or PETG)? Obviously 16mm and 5/8" are close but not exactly the same, and I’ve heard this can lead to problems, but I need some fittings that just aren’t available from Monsoon. I can provide all the details of what I’m trying to do (drain loop with Bitspower ball valve, etc.), but I'd really just like to know for future reference if I can mix fitting like this - have a run that goes from a Monsoon 5/8" Free Center hardline fitting on one end to a Bitspower 16mm fitting on the other end using Monsoon 1/2 x 5/8 tubing. There are obvious aesthetic challenges in mixing different types of fitting and it might just look like crap, but will that work or will I have Niagara Falls in my case? If it's asking for trouble then I'll just figure out a different way.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> now i like it, and i can see it, thanks !
> i like it, i know i am asking alot but now if only we could get a bigger hole in the bottom of the bottom cap ( as there is 2 holes, maybe have a smaller hole and a bigger hole ? )
> 
> 
> 
> The wire holes on the new covers have been increased last I heard, though I was able to get /all/ the cables off the AQ D5 through the smaller holes. (And I mean /all/ of them USB, Aquabus, temp, alarm, and the pump power/ground):
Click to expand...

that is great to hear ! and solves my worries thanks so much !


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Does anyone have advice for a beginner about using metric fittings with imperial-sized tubing - specifically Bitspower Enhanced Multi-Link 16mm fittings with Monsoon 1/2 x 5/8 hardline (either acrylic or PETG)? Obviously 16mm and 5/8" are close but not exactly the same, and I've heard this can lead to problems, but I need some fittings that just aren't available from Monsoon. I can provide all the details of what I'm trying to do (drain loop with Bitspower ball valve, etc.), but I'd really just like to know for future reference if I can mix fitting like this - have a run that goes from a Monsoon 5/8" Free Center hardline fitting on one end to a Bitspower 16mm fitting on the other end using Monsoon 1/2 x 5/8 tubing. There are obvious aesthetic challenges in mixing different types of fitting and it might just look like crap, but will that work or will I have Niagara Falls in my case? If it's asking for trouble then I'll just figure out a different way.


What fittings do you need that monsoon doesn't have? You can mix extensions and angled adapters, but the fittings that connect to the tube should be monsoon for hardlines. From what I've read, I believe the monsoon tubing is slightly smaller in OD so the lock collars fit better, but maybe someone with more experience in hardlines can confirm this. Also, I'm fairly certain you don't want to mix metric/imperial sized tubing and fittings with hardlines.


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> What fittings do you need that monsoon doesn't have? You can mix extensions and angled adapters, but the fittings that connect to the tube should be monsoon for hardlines. From what I've read, I believe the monsoon tubing is slightly smaller in OD so the lock collars fit better, but maybe someone with more experience in hardlines can confirm this. Also, I'm fairly certain you don't want to mix metric/imperial sized tubing and fittings with hardlines.


Thanks - I think your last statement there is what I was expecting, which is that it's a bad idea.

To be more clear, I was using the term "fittings" too generically. Monsoon has the fittings I need, and I like them, it's the extensions, adapters, valves, etc. that I need to get elsewhere. And I know they are all G1/4 so I could use the Monsoon fittings and tubing and not have this concern. However, while the Monsoon Free Center fittings are designed to fit neatly and cleaning with Monsoon adapters - same size, everything looks great - they are much bigger than some of the adapters, extensions, valves, etc. that I am looking at using and I would like to use a couple of fittings that match these other components for the same reason I want to use the Monsoon fittings with the Monsoon connectors - I think it would look better. Maybe I should use some black tubing with black Monsoon fittings for the drain loop segment. It will be a short run straight to the bottom of the case and the black tubing might help it kind of disappear.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> What fittings do you need that monsoon doesn't have? You can mix extensions and angled adapters, but the fittings that connect to the tube should be monsoon for hardlines. From what I've read, I believe the monsoon tubing is slightly smaller in OD so the lock collars fit better, but maybe someone with more experience in hardlines can confirm this. Also, I'm fairly certain you don't want to mix metric/imperial sized tubing and fittings with hardlines.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - I think your last statement there is what I was expecting, which is that it's a bad idea.
> 
> To be more clear, I was using the term "fittings" too generically. Monsoon has the fittings I need, and I like them, it's the extensions, adapters, valves, etc. that I need to get elsewhere. And I know they are all G1/4 so I could use the Monsoon fittings and tubing and not have this concern. However, while the Monsoon Free Center fittings are designed to fit neatly and cleaning with Monsoon adapters - same size, everything looks great - they are much bigger than some of the adapters, extensions, valves, etc. that I am looking at using and I would like to use a couple of fittings that match these other components for the same reason I want to use the Monsoon fittings with the Monsoon connectors - I think it would look better. Maybe I should use some black tubing with black Monsoon fittings for the drain loop segment. It will be a short run straight to the bottom of the case and the black tubing might help it kind of disappear.
Click to expand...

i agree monsoon free centers really only look good on monsoon adapters or straight off a block. however, since monsoon makes different size adapters you can usually find other fittings with the same OD and they look awesome on moonson adapters. i know boxgods doesnt want to hear that, lol, but he gave us so many choices!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> @BoxGod, this is my reservoir with the Aquacomputer D5 with the USB. I believe the extension will fit right. With the extension fitted to the D5 pump cover can one still use the vertical mount?


I will double check on Monday...but I think it would be close...probably too close. I did the vertical mounts JUST before the idea for the Aqua extension ring came to light (of course) so the first run will be the original length. After that I will add a little length to the vertical mounts. Always something right?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> The wire holes on the new covers have been increased last I heard, though I was able to get /all/ the cables off the AQ D5 through the smaller holes. (And I mean /all/ of them USB, Aquabus, temp, alarm, and the pump power/ground):


I did add 1mm all the way around the holes on the mounting tube covers. It will take a bit for the new parts to populate through retail channels...but not too long.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> i agree monsoon free centers really only look good on monsoon adapters or straight off a block. however, since monsoon makes different size adapters you can usually find other fittings with the same OD and they look awesome on moonson adapters. i know boxgods doesnt want to hear that, lol, but he gave us so many choices!


For me it really is all about the work (the rigs you guys build) so as long as they come out well I am happy. =)


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> What fittings do you need that monsoon doesn't have? You can mix extensions and angled adapters, but the fittings that connect to the tube should be monsoon for hardlines. From what I've read, I believe the monsoon tubing is slightly smaller in OD so the lock collars fit better, but maybe someone with more experience in hardlines can confirm this. Also, I'm fairly certain you don't want to mix metric/imperial sized tubing and fittings with hardlines.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - I think your last statement there is what I was expecting, which is that it's a bad idea.
> 
> To be more clear, I was using the term "fittings" too generically. Monsoon has the fittings I need, and I like them, it's the extensions, adapters, valves, etc. that I need to get elsewhere. And I know they are all G1/4 so I could use the Monsoon fittings and tubing and not have this concern. However, while the Monsoon Free Center fittings are designed to fit neatly and cleaning with Monsoon adapters - same size, everything looks great - they are much bigger than some of the adapters, extensions, valves, etc. that I am looking at using and I would like to use a couple of fittings that match these other components for the same reason I want to use the Monsoon fittings with the Monsoon connectors - I think it would look better. Maybe I should use some black tubing with black Monsoon fittings for the drain loop segment. It will be a short run straight to the bottom of the case and the black tubing might help it kind of disappear.
Click to expand...

Certain fittings will line up and look right. I have a couple of BP extensions in my build. If you put an angled adapter on the extension, for example, it will be flush and look good. Here's a quick pic of one of mine, kinda hard to see it but the back 2 fittings have extensions.


----------



## BoxGods

Looks like on the last PPC's shipment some of the cartons were sent, (by the forwarding company) to parts unknown and in their place were cartons of children's booster seats. Everyone is trying to get it sorted out ASAP. Sorry =(


----------



## VSG

LOL

I am sure Hank's loving this. Tell him to use the booster seats as seats when fishing and he'll accept them.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks like on the last PPC's shipment some of the cartons were sent, (by the forwarding company) to parts unknown and in their place were cartons of children's booster seats. Everyone is trying to get it sorted out ASAP. Sorry =(










I wonder where I can fit a booster seat in my build.









Gonna have to email them an express my interest.









No worries Geno, some things simply cannot be avoided. We may not be a patient lot, but I think most of us have a good handle on things.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah it made for a few interesting conversations. Hank is a bit of a practical joker so I thought he was just punking me for a bit.


----------



## Mega Man

hahahaha my wife deals with stuff like this as part of her job, hearing this makes me laugh ima tell her about it when she gets home

i bet whoever was getting the booster seats are going... what is all this junk ( no offense )

i think i need to go purchase a shipment of "booster seats"


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah my wife handles all of the reseller orders and shipping as well. We do make some fairly weird products for other companies so it wasn't impossible from her perspective that the booster seats were something we sent out by mistake. We shipped folding boat propellers to Australia so like I said we tend to make kind of weird stuff.


----------



## Mega Man

interesting.... getting to know the backend of monsoon ...


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks like on the last PPC's shipment some of the cartons were sent, (by the forwarding company) to parts unknown and in their place were cartons of children's booster seats. Everyone is trying to get it sorted out ASAP. Sorry =(


Noooooo! My vertical mount! LOL hopefully they show up in time to usethe discount code.


----------



## Mega Man

one option is to call them ( PPCS ) and order now then have them ship out asap they have done that for me in the past, and were very nice and flexible


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> one option is to call them ( PPCS ) and order now then have them ship out asap they have done that for me in the past, and were very nice and flexible


Good idea! I'll give them a call tomorrow, see what they say.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Good day yesterday. EK released my waterblock, BIG box arrived from PPCs with some monsoon goodies, acrylic arrived from Amazon....... life is good. Now I just have to build it.


----------



## BoxGods

Well PETG turned out to be a less than stellar choice for the CCFL plugs. We found an issue (after a lot of parts were made and packaged of course) so we are going to have to switch to poly carbonate for the tubes in those. Will add a two or three week delay. Sorry. On a positive note...at least we--and by we I mean Bruce--caught it before thousands of parts were shipped and installed.

I am thankful for small blessings!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Man, my res ends are coated in oil. So much oil it coated the inside of the bags. No biggie, just washed and washed. After I got it assembled I let it set full of pure water for about an hour to check the PH levels. Disassemble and ends are soaking in soapy water, maybe I'll get a neutral PH tomorrow. Just an FYI to some of you guys that inspection of your parts especially for chemicals, oils etc is very important. Clean, clean, clean and if you wash and check and double check ph levels, even the inside of your tubing, you will have a much much more stable system when it comes to stability of dyes and in worst case electrolysis. Through the use of ph strips and a volt meter you can keep the fluid in your system very stable and it all starts with closely examining and checking the ph on each part before assembly.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Man, my res ends are coated in oil. So much oil it coated the inside of the bags. No biggie, just washed and washed. After I got it assembled I let it set full of pure water for about an hour to check the PH levels. Disassemble and ends are soaking in soapy water, maybe I'll get a neutral PH tomorrow. Just an FYI to some of you guys that inspection of your parts especially for chemicals, oils etc is very important. Clean, clean, clean and if you wash and check and double check ph levels, even the inside of your tubing, you will have a much much more stable system when it comes to stability of dyes and in worst case electrolysis. Through the use of ph strips and a volt meter you can keep the fluid in your system very stable and it all starts with closely examining and checking the ph on each part before assembly.


This has already been discussed a few times in detail in this thread. You must wash all the MMRS components thouroghly before use.


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Well PETG turned out to be a less than stellar choice for the CCFL plugs. We found an issue (after a lot of parts were made and packaged of course) so we are going to have to switch to poly carbonate for the tubes in those. Will add a two or three week delay. Sorry. On a positive note...at least we--and by we I mean Bruce--caught it before thousands of parts were shipped and installed.
> 
> I am thankful for small blessings!


What was the issue with the petg tubes ?

did the ccfl create too much heat so the tubes got unstable and leaked or ?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Man, my res ends are coated in oil. So much oil it coated the inside of the bags. No biggie, just washed and washed. After I got it assembled I let it set full of pure water for about an hour to check the PH levels. Disassemble and ends are soaking in soapy water, maybe I'll get a neutral PH tomorrow. Just an FYI to some of you guys that inspection of your parts especially for chemicals, oils etc is very important. Clean, clean, clean and if you wash and check and double check ph levels, even the inside of your tubing, you will have a much much more stable system when it comes to stability of dyes and in worst case electrolysis. Through the use of ph strips and a volt meter you can keep the fluid in your system very stable and it all starts with closely examining and checking the ph on each part before assembly.


That "oil" is a plastic conditioner that stops the chemical reaction from the etching process and has a very mild biocide to slow down any growth. It is not left over from a maching process (the parts are molded not machined) or anything like that. It is added as an intentional step in our processing.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> What was the issue with the petg tubes ?
> 
> did the ccfl create too much heat so the tubes got unstable and leaked or ?


Yes good guess--no leaks tho as the ends are USW (Ultrasonic Welded). I had no idea CCFL's generated that much heat. It is only at the last inch on the end. We did our initial testing with the CCFL's installed inside a reservoir and that worked fine. It was only an issue for bulbs used for extended periods not submerged. Poly Carbonate is fine to about 2.5 X the temp PETG is so it will easily resolve the issue. Just another time sucking delay.


----------



## Malum

okay, but nice that you caught it before sending it out to resellers and/or final custumors...








I'll just have to be a little more patience








but perhaps they will now release at the same time as the inverters that goes with them


----------



## Mega Man

*cough * hint *Cough*


----------



## BoxGods

Hope springs eternal =)


----------



## Methodical

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> This has already been discussed a few times in detail in this thread. You must wash all the MMRS components thouroghly before use.


I assume dish soap is the recommend cleaner, correct?

Thanks


----------



## ArdentDefender

Does Monsoon make or any chance they can make a "Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir" and offer in color variation other than black? The rectangular block with 2 D5 pumps on it.

I would like to see and get a Monsoon Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir system that's completely clear/see through if that was an option for my new build if they had it.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> This has already been discussed a few times in detail in this thread. You must wash all the MMRS components thouroghly before use.
> 
> 
> 
> I assume dish soap is the recommend cleaner, correct?
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

That is correct, it's what Boxgods recommends.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methodical*
> 
> I assume dish soap is the recommend cleaner, correct?
> 
> Thanks


Plain old dish soap. No scrubby pads or anything abrasive. Hot water (tap hot) works better.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArdentDefender*
> 
> Does Monsoon make or any chance they can make a "Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir" and offer in color variation other than black? The rectangular block with 2 D5 pumps on it.
> 
> I would like to see and get a Monsoon Twin D5 Dual Bay Reservoir system that's completely clear/see through if that was an option for my new build if they had it.


Sorry we don't have anything like that. Could do a dual bay with the tube reservoir back with a D5 on it and a second matching SAP but that is about as close as we get currently.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Okay, so here comes, hopefully some good news.
> 
> I did as last time, put some extra Monsoon adhesive glue around, and mostly Inside the collar/tubing.
> 
> I did put maybe, a bit too much around outside the collar, so the fitting was a pain to get screwed on.
> 
> Here's how the fitting looks like now, mounted.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately I could get the camera to really focus on the collar. Not much to see either except a bad glued collar. But it really locked like the tubing had small small crack, but the collar does cover it.
> 
> Anyway, as last time, my solution works, for now! I have been benchmarking the system, as yesterday (when everything went wrong). And after 35 minutes - no leaks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The water itself for GPU loop is right now 43 degrees celcius. Sometimes it gets high as 45. CPU loop is 39 degrees. Remember, the temps are for the water!!!
> 
> And here's are pic for you Gene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I said, the leak isn't because of my drilling, not now at least. Since, as you can see, it's the original hole it's mounted to


I think maybe you might want to re-do that bend and collar fitting because... speaking as someone who used to be a mechanic, that looks like a leak waiting to happen.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks like on the last PPC's shipment some of the cartons were sent, (by the forwarding company) to parts unknown and in their place were cartons of children's booster seats. Everyone is trying to get it sorted out ASAP. Sorry =(


Any luck tracking down that shipment?


----------



## coookiemunster

Just thought I would leave this here...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Any luck tracking down that shipment?


PPCS has the mating kits, vertical mounts, and the FDP Cap spacers (so you get 12mm of adjustment room instead of 6mm on the standard saps) there now. They are adding the products to their site now. Should be up tomorrow.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Just thought I would leave this here...


Man...I have GOT to find or carve out some BUILD TIME. That looks like it is going to be an epic build









Needs white free centers tho =)


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Any luck tracking down that shipment?
> 
> 
> 
> PPCS has the mating kits, vertical mounts, and the FDP Cap spacers (so you get 12mm of adjustment room instead of 6mm on the standard saps) there now. They are adding the products to their site now. Should be up tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Awesome, cant wait to get this other build finished so i can work on my own project.


----------



## DaaQ

Delete


----------



## DaaQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Holy crap 210 pages already?!? This thread is really going places
> 
> Anyway, things are starting to get going on rebuilding, just about to start pouring the slab next week and pretty much everything is already lined up to get going. This brings me to my question:
> 
> I got an office built into the plans solely for doing some variation of an over-the-top build again. I'm torn between doing another (only much improved) desk build again, a legit built in wall build, or something completely different.
> 
> If anyone has any wild ideas, I'm in a perfect spot to give it a go. Best I got at the moment, is to have a dedicated A/C vent right next to and aimed at the rad fans and having them exhaust into the next room over. It will be a good 3 to 5 months before I can really get going all out on it, but before the framers and insulation guys get started next month if someone has a wild idea to throw out, it would be good to have in advance so I can change the plans around to take advantage of it before they start framing the inside up.
> 
> Just keep in mind this is a Monsoon thread, so try and limit it to things that could even make Gene impressed.


Since you brought it up. Radiant floor heating/cooling. A sort of variation from geothermal loop.


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I totally pondered doing an intake from the exterior of my house (I'm in Alaska so it's almost always cool outside (I think our typical highest temp is like 72 and there's no such thing as air conditioning up here) However, we replaced all our windows, doors, insulation, and tyvek'ed (w/e the correct spelling of the house wrap is) and I find it's now /much/ cooler inside than outside during the summer so I abandoned that idea heh
> 
> I am however planning to put a bunch of stuff in the wall when I remodel my recording studio - all the wires (it'll have a mini-home theater) including all the connections I currently have on my "stereo rack" build between my two PC components and my A/V receiver, yep even the water cooling tubes.
> 
> I'm not much help I'm afraid, I could go a hundred different directions with a completely blank slate; custom wall alcoves all molded out so each individual component looks like art. A built-in reservoir waterfall art looking thing that appears to "spill" onto the monitor(s). A combo desk build / wall built with aesthetically pleasing bits on the wall the rest in the desk. You could do water cooling tube art on the wall or make the "legs" of your desk the res. A built in fold out desk with the rig in the desk (space-saver idea.) Or an "invisible" build - 100% in-wall, with monitors and keyboard shelf that all flip out of the wall; if you get a bunch of frame-less monitors you could make it look like a home theater. I've always wanted to do a "shadow box" build (basically a super thin but wide/tall case) - If I wasn't so enamored with my "stereo rack" idea/look I would have gone there instead.


I'm looking to do something quite similar actually. My "office" where I do my "research" will have a small little attic above it where the networking hub, pumps, rads, fans, etc. etc. will be located. That little attic room will have it's own zone control and be it's own zone for the A/C so I can set it in that little room to a nice cool 15 degrees C (it will only be around 180 cubic feet so not a big deal) with a small air vent leading outside above thru the roof.

And yes, I said networking hub, I've somehow managed to convince the guys who do the installation of AT&T's networking cables to run their best fiber lines to my house. My parents and brother both live about 1000 feet from me respectively, but it's mostly the direction away from the road (I'm right next to it), so gonna end up trenching lines to their places so they can get high speed internet as well and split the cost. (gotta get the business package in order to get the real fiber service so we are gonna split it).

Anyway here is a concept of what I'm thinking.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Now if I go this route I would probably put the tubing in the framework itself that carries the coolant to and from the rads in the attic. I'm guessing I should probably go with copper pipes for that run so in 10 years I won't have to tear out the wall to change the tubing, that sound about right?


----------



## BoxGods

That is a pretty serious dead lift...what pumps?


----------



## Unnatural

Hey guys, do you think this setup would work well to put the 2 pumps in series? I just put the things together to take the photo, of course for the final assembly I would rotate the stands to smooth the curves.



Also, I choose red to match my previous motherboard (Asus Maximus VII Formula) color scheme. Now I switched to the VIII, with RGB support, so I'm considering to replace those parts (along with rotary fittings) to a more neutral tint; I suppose white or chrome would be more suitable since they reflect the light and blend with whichever color the LEDs are. What would you suggest?


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Hey guys, do you think this setup would work well to put the 2 pumps in series? I just put the things together to take the photo, of course for the final assembly I would rotate the stands to smooth the curves.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I choose red to match my previous motherboard (Asus Maximus VII Formula) color scheme. Now I switched to the VIII, with RGB support, so I'm considering to replace those parts (along with rotary fittings) to a more neutral tint; I suppose white or chrome would be more suitable since they reflect the light and blend with whichever color the LEDs are. What would you suggest?






I would suggest black. Black goes with everything and anything. I would also suggest putting the pumps like this for better aesthetics.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I'm looking to do something quite similar actually. My "office" where I do my "research" will have a small little attic above it where the networking hub, pumps, rads, fans, etc. etc. will be located. That little attic room will have it's own zone control and be it's own zone for the A/C so I can set it in that little room to a nice cool 15 degrees C (it will only be around 180 cubic feet so not a big deal) with a small air vent leading outside above thru the roof.
> 
> And yes, I said networking hub, I've somehow managed to convince the guys who do the installation of AT&T's networking cables to run their best fiber lines to my house. My parents and brother both live about 1000 feet from me respectively, but it's mostly the direction away from the road (I'm right next to it), so gonna end up trenching lines to their places so they can get high speed internet as well and split the cost. (gotta get the business package in order to get the real fiber service so we are gonna split it).
> 
> Anyway here is a concept of what I'm thinking.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I go this route I would probably put the tubing in the framework itself that carries the coolant to and from the rads in the attic. I'm guessing I should probably go with copper pipes for that run so in 10 years I won't have to tear out the wall to change the tubing, that sound about right?


Does PEX degrade? That's like the new standard for housing water pipes, no plastic chemical leech and no more copper leech. Not that I'd presume copper leech would be a problem as I believe it leech particulates are so fine that they'd all come out when you cleaned the loop and thus wouldn't cause any issues.

Of course I'm no expert on this stuff, I just know that when we were discussing putting an extension on the house, as well as discussing with plumbers to install an endless pool, they had highly suggested PEX over copper.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> I'm looking to do something quite similar actually. My "office" where I do my "research" will have a small little attic above it where the networking hub, pumps, rads, fans, etc. etc. will be located. That little attic room will have it's own zone control and be it's own zone for the A/C so I can set it in that little room to a nice cool 15 degrees C (it will only be around 180 cubic feet so not a big deal) with a small air vent leading outside above thru the roof.
> 
> And yes, I said networking hub, I've somehow managed to convince the guys who do the installation of AT&T's networking cables to run their best fiber lines to my house. My parents and brother both live about 1000 feet from me respectively, but it's mostly the direction away from the road (I'm right next to it), so gonna end up trenching lines to their places so they can get high speed internet as well and split the cost. (gotta get the business package in order to get the real fiber service so we are gonna split it).
> 
> Anyway here is a concept of what I'm thinking.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now if I go this route I would probably put the tubing in the framework itself that carries the coolant to and from the rads in the attic. I'm guessing I should probably go with copper pipes for that run so in 10 years I won't have to tear out the wall to change the tubing, that sound about right?
> 
> 
> 
> Does PEX degrade? That's like the new standard for housing water pipes, no plastic chemical leech and no more copper leech. Not that I'd presume copper leech would be a problem as I believe it leech particulates are so fine that they'd all come out when you cleaned the loop and thus wouldn't cause any issues.
> 
> Of course I'm no expert on this stuff, I just know that when we were discussing putting an extension on the house, as well as discussing with plumbers to install an endless pool, they had highly suggested PEX over copper.
Click to expand...

Cause PEX is flexible and cheap compared to Copper. No brazing involved and color coded for both Hot and Cold lines as well. Simple push-in connection process also. I've never heard of leeching where PEX is concerned but it's relatively new having been available for less than 10 years iirc.

~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That is a pretty serious dead lift...what pumps?


Not sure yet. Pretty sure even dual DDC's won't have enough head pressure though (it's still a ways down the line, slab is still curing, so framing hasn't even started yet). Probably gonna end up going with one of the larger Iwaki aquarium pumps to have enough umph.

Good to know that PEX doesn't leech, that will make things simpler.


----------



## Mega Man

https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Bronze-2ZWR7

:O ( there are cheaper pumps just using this as it was quick, and all brass/bronze


----------



## PC4CAB

Folks,

Ordinarily I'm much better at due diligence, but in a rush to wrap up an order, I went all in and bought a sizable amount of hardline products from Monsson, including a bunch of their tubing, the mandrel kit and a bunch of fittings. I'm worried now, as I've read a number of negative reviews on the fittings cracking, and causing leaks and in some cases, equipment damage. Have I made a mistake? Can I use these products in confidence? This is my first hardline build, and now I'm worried...

-PC4CAB


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC4CAB*
> 
> Folks,
> 
> Ordinarily I'm much better at due diligence, but in a rush to wrap up an order, I went all in and bought a sizable amount of hardline products from Monsson, including a bunch of their tubing, the mandrel kit and a bunch of fittings. I'm worried now, as I've read a number of negative reviews on the fittings cracking, and causing leaks and in some cases, equipment damage. Have I made a mistake? Can I use these products in confidence? This is my first hardline build, and now I'm worried...
> 
> -PC4CAB


You will be fine. Just follow the video instructions from boxgods and take your time to do it right the first time. Just because 1 or 2 users out of thousands have problems doesn't mean its a faulty product. Use the forums for questions to help when needed, and remember water cooling is always a risk anyway, so take other's experiences with a grain of salt.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That is a pretty serious dead lift...what pumps?
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure yet. Pretty sure even dual DDC's won't have enough head pressure though (it's still a ways down the line, slab is still curing, so framing hasn't even started yet). Probably gonna end up going with one of the larger Iwaki aquarium pumps to have enough umph.
> 
> Good to know that PEX doesn't leech, that will make things simpler.
Click to expand...

Now that I think about it, since they use PEX for household use I doubt it leeches because people use their water for cooking. Imagine the massive lawsuit resulting from unintentional poisoning. It'd be on the national scale if that were happening. The stuff is sold at all large kiosks like Home Depot, Lowe's, ACE etc.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Bronze-2ZWR7
> 
> :O ( there are cheaper pumps just using this as it was quick, and all brass/bronze


Really MM ???
You are using a 1300 watt pump, surely not


----------



## Mega Man

no, just saying he COULD

ment i am using this as an example ! you asked "what pump"


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Bronze-2ZWR7
> 
> :O ( there are cheaper pumps just using this as it was quick, and all brass/bronze


Lol, it's just going up like 9 or 10 feet, with 25 ft of piping and probably 3 to 5 restriction points. That guy with 55 ft of max head pressure, 200 psi, and 50 - 60 Gallons per minute may just be a wee bit too powerful.

I haven't looked in a while but now that I think about it I believe Laeing makes a pump that would be perfect for my needs thats just two steps up from the DDC pump.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC4CAB*
> 
> Folks,
> 
> Ordinarily I'm much better at due diligence, but in a rush to wrap up an order, I went all in and bought a sizable amount of hardline products from Monsson, including a bunch of their tubing, the mandrel kit and a bunch of fittings. I'm worried now, as I've read a number of negative reviews on the fittings cracking, and causing leaks and in some cases, equipment damage. Have I made a mistake? Can I use these products in confidence? This is my first hardline build, and now I'm worried...
> 
> -PC4CAB


All those bad reviews are from the first batch of lock collars that had a tendency to crack. That issue was promptly amended over a year ago, so any "bad reviews" from the last year are actually just folks who screwed up and didn't read the instructions properly.

Edit: Found the pump I was thinking about:

It's an E-10

Specifications
Pump:
• Max Capacities: 11 GPM
• Max Head: 18'
• Pipe Connections:
¾" and 1" Barb Suction and Discharge
¾" MPT Suction and Discharge
• Maximum Working Pressure: 50 PSI
• Maximum Temperature: 140° F
• Rotation: counter clockwise when viewed
from the motor end

http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/ss-17r1_e10-plastics2.pdf


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Bronze-2ZWR7
> 
> :O ( there are cheaper pumps just using this as it was quick, and all brass/bronze
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, it's just going up like 9 or 10 feet, with 25 ft of piping and probably 3 to 5 restriction points. That guy with 55 ft of max head pressure, 200 psi, and 50 - 60 Gallons per minute may just be a wee bit too powerful.
> 
> I haven't looked in a while but now that I think about it I believe Laeing makes a pump that would be perfect for my needs thats just two steps up from the DDC pump.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PC4CAB*
> 
> Folks,
> 
> Ordinarily I'm much better at due diligence, but in a rush to wrap up an order, I went all in and bought a sizable amount of hardline products from Monsson, including a bunch of their tubing, the mandrel kit and a bunch of fittings. I'm worried now, as I've read a number of negative reviews on the fittings cracking, and causing leaks and in some cases, equipment damage. Have I made a mistake? Can I use these products in confidence? This is my first hardline build, and now I'm worried...
> 
> -PC4CAB
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All those bad reviews are from the first batch of lock collars that had a tendency to crack. That issue was promptly amended over a year ago, so any "bad reviews" from the last year are actually just folks who screwed up and didn't read the instructions properly.
> 
> Edit: Found the pump I was thinking about:
> 
> It's an E-10
> 
> Specifications
> Pump:
> • Max Capacities: 11 GPM
> • Max Head: 18'
> • Pipe Connections:
> ¾" and 1" Barb Suction and Discharge
> ¾" MPT Suction and Discharge
> • Maximum Working Pressure: 50 PSI
> • Maximum Temperature: 140° F
> • Rotation: counter clockwise when viewed
> from the motor end
> 
> http://documentlibrary.xylemappliedwater.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/22/files/2012/07/ss-17r1_e10-plastics2.pdf
Click to expand...



fair warning look at the bearing material. from what i can tell, it is the main bearing seal aka in the water aka galvanic corrosion - i dunno for sure though


----------



## BoxGods

When the Hard Line fitting were originally released (the first run) a very small percentage of users had an issue with the acrylic lock collars cracking. By small I mean 1% or less.

We went ahead and changed out the material used for the molded lock collars from acrylic to poly carbonate and have not had a single customer report cracking collars. We made the switch something like 8 - 10 months ago.

I am also here in the forums pretty much every day and I am also happy to answer emails so as Radnad said, "watch the how to videos and you will be fine. I really recommend using the UV cure adhesive, using sunlight as shown in the videos, and not trying to us nail polish drying lamps etc.

Seriously, you will be fine =)


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> When the Hard Line fitting were originally released (the first run) a very small percentage of users had an issue with the acrylic lock collars cracking. By small I mean 1% or less.
> 
> We went ahead and changed out the material used for the molded lock collars from acrylic to poly carbonate and have not had a single customer report cracking collars. We made the switch something like 8 - 10 months ago.
> 
> I am also here in the forums pretty much every day and I am also happy to answer emails so as Radnad said, "watch the how to videos and you will be fine. I really recommend using the UV cure adhesive, using sunlight as shown in the videos, and not trying to us nail polish drying lamps etc.
> 
> Seriously, you will be fine =)


Hi Geno, since what scares me most about the hardline fittings is being unable to know the glue expiration time, could you give me some advice on how I can test if the bond is good? If I glue some spare tubing and collar, would an out-of-date glue make a weaker bond? Or an apparently good bond, but prone to break/fail? Or not cure at all?


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Hi Geno, since what scares me most about the hardline fittings is being unable to know the glue expiration time, could you give me some advice on how I can test if the bond is good? If I glue some spare tubing and collar, would an out-of-date glue make a weaker bond? Or an apparently good bond, but prone to break/fail? Or not cure at all?


Just buy some new glue!! Problem solved!! Great system!!


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just buy some new glue!! Problem solved!! Great system!!


Oh, wow, brilliant.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Just buy some new glue!! Problem solved!! Great system!!


This is posted as a jest but really it is good advice. Don't buy the adhesive, open it, leave it sit for 8 months, then use it. It has a 1 year shelf life when unopened and stored properly--cool, dry, dark. Once you open it you should try to use it within a month or two. We don't send resellers more in one shipment then they can sell in a few months.

The vast vast majority of builders have no issues at all. Of the few who do 9 times out of 10 it is people who for whatever reason just flat out refusing to use sunlight and instead trying to use Chinese nail polish drying lights they buy off of ebay. If you insist on using a lamp it must be one designed for curing UV adhesives--not for drying fingernails. Again--just GO OUTSIDE and use daylight as it is free. It does not need to be direct noon day South Texas OMG it's hot sunlight. If it is overcast, or you live in Seattle or England just leave the parts out longer. Ten minutes, flip 180, another 10 minutes. If you are the type to worry, make it 15 minutes per side. In bright sunlight 3 to 5 minutes per side is fine.

I have a $2,000 high end automated UV cure lamp and I still prefer to use sunlight as the lamp requires special goggles, all your skin covered, etc.

The most common non glue related issues are expecting the parts to magically correct user induced errors. They don't. If you bend your tube and it is 25mm plus out of line and you are using a lot of pressure to force it into place you may get a leak because the tube is entering the fitting at a hard angle. A regular push in type fitting will also likely leak in this situation. If you have cat hair or an eye lash or lint etc. between the seal and mating surfaces the seal will bridge and you will get a leak.

If you are new to bending tube, watch the videos. Buy a few extra collars and sticks of tube to practice with. Bending tube is like the matrix...nobody makes the jump the first time. Is it more work than soft tube? Sure. It also looks about a hundred times cooler and usually improves performance. Most people also think it is fun and provides a great deal of pride when you are done.

And as I mentioned previously, I am always genuinely happy to help if you have questions--less so the next two weeks as I am heading to California and Vegas woot!. I will still be checking in every day, (provided I have a connection). Maybe I will bump into some of you guys in SF, Carmel, Dana Point, etc. and I can buy you a beer =)


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> This is posted as a jest but really it is good advice. Don't buy the adhesive, open it, leave it sit for 8 months, then use it. It has a 1 year shelf life when unopened and stored properly--cool, dry, dark. Once you open it you should try to use it within a month or two. We don't send resellers more in one shipment then they can sell in a few months.


Do you supply each reseller directly? Worldwide?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Do you supply each reseller directly? Worldwide?


Yes. Sometimes they sell to other little shops but we can keep track of general volume based on how many fittings they buy. Said another way if they buy 3,000 fitting we have a pretty good idea of how many bottle of adhesive they will need.

As you mentioned in your OP you're really worried about this and I understand. New methods or material that you are not familiar with can be scary. My advice would be to stick with a push in fitting--and I really mean that--because going beyond your own personal comfort level tends to take the fun out of a project.

We are launching the replacement for our original Economy fitting in may and those might be a better choice for you. They don't have the absolute holding power of our Hard Line fittings but they do hold much better than normal push in fittings and they do not require adhesive.


----------



## BoxGods

Which reminds me. Here is the new Logo for EV2. (Economy Version Two).


----------



## Unnatural

I have no problem taking all the time I need to learn how to learn a new method; I've already bought 4 packs of hardline fittings, so I'd rather use them. Now I'll try to contact the shop I bought the last glue bottle a couple weeks ago, (since - again - I'm taking my time to prepare to do anything correctly, I just ordered one every time I placed an order for other stuff, each time throwing away the ones I already had, so you can figure why I find so unfun suggesting to buy a new one) and see if they can find out how old it was.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Do you supply each reseller directly? Worldwide?


Hey, I am one of those you might have seen in the thread with problems earlier.

I know Geno (boxgoods) might be hating me ´cause I am not the biggest Monsoon lover out there, but I am big customer.

Anyway, I will give you some good tips









Don't make any crucial (difficult) bends, don't make more struggle than you have to, try to limit the amount of fittings to just the amount you need, and not as I did, just make fancy bends for design purpose







Think I have over 30 fittings in mine LOL

And use a lot of glue! One bottle is good for maybe 20 fittings (think you can get a few more, but just to be on the safe side)









I did't use the sun, since it was winter in Sweden while I built mine, and we don't have any sunlight during that half of year. And I did not use any "nail uv cure stuff". But I did use a simple, few dollar, UV LED FLASHLIGHT from Ebay, and I can say, that one works fenomenal!! Just have good fresh batteries and leave it 10 minutes pointed to all different sides on the glued collar, and it will cure very strong, if you want to, you can first use the uv flashlight and then go out in sun, then you get both parts









Good luck!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> I have no problem taking all the time I need to learn how to learn a new method; I've already bought 4 packs of hardline fittings, so I'd rather use them. Now I'll try to contact the shop I bought the last glue bottle a couple weeks ago, (since - again - I'm taking my time to prepare to do anything correctly, I just ordered one every time I placed an order for other stuff, each time throwing away the ones I already had, so you can figure why I find so unfun suggesting to buy a new one) and see if they can find out how old it was.


Sure.

Unless you are taking a REALLY long time between orders, (like 6 months) I would not worry. Keep the unopened bottle in your refrigerator--not the freezer--as it prolongs the shelf life a bit. Obviously be careful no small children accidentally eat it. Let return to room temp for about an hour before using. You will know when it is nearing the end of it's shelf life as it will start to thicken and gum up. What is happening is that even through the bottle and stored in a dark place it will cure if given enough time.


----------



## jvillaveces

I have been attacked and insulted before for posting about this. I've been called an idiot and a liar. I don't mind. I had every conceivable problem with the free center hardline system. Some caused by me, others caused by the products, As a result of my experience, I will never use those products again, although I remain a fan of Monsoon the brand and use their other stuff quite happily. If you must use the free center system, my advice would be to make a few practice bends outside your system, maybe even a full mock loop, to get an idea how things work before risking your hardware.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hey, I am one of those you might have seen in the thread with problems earlier.
> 
> I know Geno (boxgoods) might be hating me ´cause I am not the biggest Monsoon lover out there, but I am big customer.
> 
> Anyway, I will give you some good tips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't make any crucial (difficult) bends, don't make more struggle than you have to, try to limit the amount of fittings to just the amount you need, and not as I did, just make fancy bends for design purpose
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I have over 30 fittings in mine LOL
> 
> And use a lot of glue! One bottle is good for maybe 20 fittings (think you can get a few more, but just to be on the safe side)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did't use the sun, since it was winter in Sweden while I built mine, and we don't have any sunlight during that half of year. And I did not use any "nail uv cure stuff". But I did use a simple, few dollar, UV LED FLASHLIGHT from Ebay, and I can say, that one works fenomenal!! Just have good fresh batteries and leave it 10 minutes pointed to all different sides on the glued collar, and it will cure very strong, if you want to, you can first use the uv flashlight and then go out in sun, then you get both parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck!


Never hating on you...but I simply can not resist...so no plants in Sweden at all? No grass? No trees? I know you have all of those beautiful pale women but there must be SOME UV light


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You will know when it is nearing the end of it's shelf life as it will start to thicken and gum up. What is happening is that even through the bottle and stored in a dark place it will cure if given enough time.


Err... can I assume this basically a perfect, empirical answer to "how can I know if the glue I have is still good"?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have been attacked and insulted before for posting about this. I've been called an idiot and a liar. I don't mind. I had every conceivable problem with the free center hardline system. Some caused by me, others caused by the products, As a result of my experience, I will never use those products again, although I remain a fan of Monsoon the brand and use their other stuff quite happily. If you must use the free center system, my advice would be to make a few practice bends outside your system, maybe even a full mock loop, to get an idea how things work before risking your hardware.


I hope you have never felt like I attacked you. Everyone has a right to their opinion even if (or especially if) it differs. From my perspective (and maybe some of the people that have ganged up on you a bit) it is a little *frustrating* because I have used at least a hundred of these fittings--so many I lost count long ago--and in all types of loops from simple to very complex, without any issues. I have broken a few tubes and I once bonded two of my fingers together (never a good idea to work when you are dead tired) and I have had to take a fitting off a few times to clean out gunk on the seal, but no major issues.

I have let a lot of local guys build in my shop over the years and when I was developing the Hard Line fittings I watched them use the fittings to see how they did--same results. We also sell a lot of these and most builders have no issues. A few OEM shops use them as well.

I guess nothing works every single time for every single person...even Elon blows up a rocket every now and then =)


----------



## PC4CAB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> When the Hard Line fitting were originally released (the first run) a very small percentage of users had an issue with the acrylic lock collars cracking. By small I mean 1% or less.
> 
> We went ahead and changed out the material used for the molded lock collars from acrylic to poly carbonate and have not had a single customer report cracking collars. We made the switch something like 8 - 10 months ago.
> 
> I am also here in the forums pretty much every day and I am also happy to answer emails so as Radnad said, "watch the how to videos and you will be fine. I really recommend using the UV cure adhesive, using sunlight as shown in the videos, and not trying to us nail polish drying lamps etc.
> 
> Seriously, you will be fine =)


Thank you BoxGods! Appreciate the support. I'll be posting pics as I go through the build. My first time with hardline, should be interesting!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Err... can I assume this basically a perfect, empirical answer to "how can I know if the glue I have is still good"?


I KNEW you were going to grief me over that lol. The reason I did not give this answer the first time is because the more people you have reading something the more relative it becomes. My idea of "noticeably different" or noticeable thickening" will not be the same as everyone else. It is not 100% quantifiable...and to be honest not everyone listens to me--see my hundred different times saying "don't use cheapo UV lights use the sun"...and some people (yes I am looking at you Eucalyptus







) still insist on using them and posting that it is OK to use them.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC4CAB*
> 
> Thank you BoxGods! Appreciate the support. I'll be posting pics as I go through the build. My first time with hardline, should be interesting!


Good Luck =)


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I KNEW you were going to grief me over that lol. The reason I did not give this answer the first time is because the more people you have reading something the more relative it becomes. My idea of "noticeably different" or noticeable thickening" will not be the same as everyone else. It is not 100% quantifiable...and to be honest not everyone listens to me--see my hundred different times saying "don't use cheapo UV lights use the sun"...and some people (yes I am looking at you Eucalyptus
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) still insist on using them and posting that it is OK to use them.


I see your point


----------



## PC4CAB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Good Luck =)


Thanks! I tried searching for your videos, can you point me toward a link?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> fair warning look at the bearing material. from what i can tell, it is the main bearing seal aka in the water aka galvanic corrosion - i dunno for sure though


Good call, when I get to that point I'll definitely need to check into the materials used as well as the listed specs while wandering into the unknown (read, not a D5 or DDC pump) when it gets to that point.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I have been attacked and insulted before for posting about this. I've been called an idiot and a liar. I don't mind. I had every conceivable problem with the free center hardline system. Some caused by me, others caused by the products, As a result of my experience, I will never use those products again, although I remain a fan of Monsoon the brand and use their other stuff quite happily. If you must use the free center system, my advice would be to make a few practice bends outside your system, maybe even a full mock loop, to get an idea how things work before risking your hardware.


From my experience 95% of the time there is a problem, no matter how adamant I am that I put it together properly, when scrutinized it turns out to be a user error on my part. A thing to keep in mind is that sometimes a persons individual style just doesn't mesh with a product as well. A great example is compression fittings with soft tubing. Some fit a lot more snug than others, and some people like to tighten the rings down tighter than others. It's not necessarily that the product is bad, but just that it's a bad fit for your individual style of doing things which is perfectly fine. A lot of folks know Geno is a stand-up dude and makes quality products so they come to his defense, even if it turns out that it really was faulty product that and not user error on your part.

Personally I have no horse in the race, no clue what all went wrong with your build(s) and no clue what manner of harassment you got. Just offering up a possible explanation for why.


----------



## Deedaz

Looks like ppcs is slowly uploading the new monsoon stuff now!


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Looks like ppcs is slowly uploading the new monsoon stuff now!


I was just coming here to post this, as PPCs is finally adding things to their page.

I do have a question, though... What exactly are the mating kits for? Is is so that we can combine something like *this* on top of *this*, so we no longer have to feed in the water line from the top of the reservoir if we have a reservoir with a pump mounted at the bottom?

EDIT: Too late, I went ahead and grabbed two mating kits since they only have (had) 20 in stock, and I certainly didn't want to get stuck waiting for those.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> I was just coming here to post this, as PPCs is finally adding things to their page.
> 
> I do have a question, though... What exactly are the mating kits for? Is is so that we can combine something like *this* on top of *this*, so we no longer have to feed in the water line from the top of the reservoir if we have a reservoir with a pump mounted at the bottom?
> 
> EDIT: Too late, I went ahead and grabbed two mating kits since they only have (had) 20 in stock, and I certainly didn't want to get stuck waiting for those.


Yes it will mate a coupler to the TRP. so you get that "blender" style pump layout. It has mating rings for both open or closed mates as well.


----------



## Mystriss

!!!

~snags mating kit~

Also:



The solid ring works the same way, except it splits the reservoir


----------



## NeeqOne

Finally, I get the vertical mount.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Finally, I get the vertical mount.


I seriously pondered grabbing one of those, but I'm not entirely sure what my kidlet wants for his MMRS yet. I keep forgetting to grab him by the ear and find out.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I seriously pondered grabbing one of those, but I'm not entirely sure what my kidlet wants for his MMRS yet. I keep forgetting to grab him by the ear and find out.


You need to act fast before they are out of stock.

@BoxGods, will the 12mm machined aluminum mounting "arm" for the Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount be available for purchase separately? Thanks.


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> !!!
> 
> ~snags mating kit~
> 
> Also:
> 
> 
> 
> The solid ring works the same way, except it splits the reservoir


This is exactly what I wanted to do with it, because now I can use the fill-port top section (for aesthetics) rather than a multi-port top to account for both filling _and_ feeding.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PC4CAB*
> 
> Thanks! I tried searching for your videos, can you point me toward a link?


I think they are all on this page:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q

I will be adding more as time permits.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> You need to act fast before they are out of stock.
> 
> @BoxGods, will the 12mm machined aluminum mounting "arm" for the Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount be available for purchase separately? Thanks.


Yes. I think they are already packaged and ready to go...will be traveling till the 15th (so will my guys in China) so they won't ship before then.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> This is exactly what I wanted to do with it, because now I can use the fill-port top section (for aesthetics) rather than a multi-port top to account for both filling _and_ feeding.


If you don't need any ports on the top you can get the EC-ZP which is port free =)


----------



## MiRai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you don't need any ports on the top you can get the EC-ZP which is port free =)


I definitely like the look of the fillport:



In my opinion it's more rugged, and "industrial" looking, if you will.







Plus it allows for a bit more of a color accent (because of the added metal ring) since I am going with a triple color scheme.

EDIT: Also, it will actually be used as a fillport (totally forgot to mention that)


----------



## Deedaz

Finally got it assembled, now just gotta wait for the mount to show up


----------



## Radnad

woooooo wee, they get perttyer everytime i see one assembled!


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MiRai*
> 
> This is exactly what I wanted to do with it, because now I can use the fill-port top section (for aesthetics) rather than a multi-port top to account for both filling _and_ feeding.


\o/


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Finally got it assembled, now just gotta wait for the mount to show up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that the black chrome? I debated forever between the matte black and the black chrome lol


----------



## BWAS1000

Everytime this thread pops up, it reminds me of how much I wanted those Compressions. Next build for sure.......


----------



## Benjiw

I did a thing!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Finally got it assembled, now just gotta wait for the mount to show up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the black chrome? I debated forever between the matte black and the black chrome lol
Click to expand...

Yeah it's the black chrome. Really just looks incredible, very pleased with how the build is coming together.


----------



## ruffhi

My reservoir will feed the pumps via about 20cm of flex tube. Will I need a trident for that sort of setup? Is so, can I get the trident by itself?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> My reservoir will feed the pumps via about 20cm of flex tube. Will I need a trident for that sort of setup? Is so, can I get the trident by itself?


We are packaging the press in tridents for sale in 2 packs...will be a few weeks before they ship (maybe a little longer I will have to check).


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I did a thing!


Clever. Is that bonded in somehow?


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Clever. Is that bonded in somehow?


Nope screwed in so it can be removed should the pump need repair, the link on how to do it is in my sig if you wanna check it out?


----------



## Mystriss

^^ I think you'll be needing the MMRS pump cover extension for that


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Yeah it's the black chrome. Really just looks incredible, very pleased with how the build is coming together.


I think every time I see the black chrome I kick myself







Still, the matte black looks good with my rig so I'm not really displeased with it. I wish I had more need/room for more stuff, the red is beautiful, the blue is awesome, the gold is epic.... I just can't do the rainbow though lol


----------



## BoxGods

I do the exact same thing. Not really a black chrome person then when I assemble one I go "Wow...that really does look cool". I especially like it with the frosted green or white tube.


----------



## Benjiw

I'm so annoyed right now, I ordered some replacement tubing because I was running out of my Monsoon tubing, ordered primochill because it was the same OD so what the hell and it won't fit in the acrylic cap at all without sanding down. I wanted to get this finished today and I'm so close to just saying F it all and go back to soft tubing. Why can't everything use one measuring unit... Sick to death of all this imperial vs metric BS.


----------



## Mega Man

well get with the times and use imperial ( i joke ! i would prefer using metric in the us... we was supposed to, but the politicians lied )


----------



## VSG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm so annoyed right now, I ordered some replacement tubing because I was running out of my Monsoon tubing, ordered primochill because it was the same OD so what the hell and it won't fit in the acrylic cap at all without sanding down. I wanted to get this finished today and I'm so close to just saying F it all and go back to soft tubing. Why can't everything use one measuring unit... Sick to death of all this imperial vs metric BS.


This is actually not on the unit system as both Primochill and Monsoon use imperial units for hard tubing and hardline fittings. If you have a ruler on hand, it would be a good way to confirm who's at fault. Tubing with irregular wall thickness happens more often than I would like in this industry so I am not going to be surprised if that is it.


----------



## Mega Man

acrylic and the like are actually pretty known for it


----------



## Benjiw

I honestly don't care, I just don't understand why when I ordered and triple checked that the size was correct that it has come and will not fit without me putting the damn thing on a lathe and shaving off 0.3mm. The primochill stuff is thicker and the material is quite poor too, it's difficult to cut and melts easily while cutting, it's not as hard as the monsoon tubing either.


----------



## Mystriss

Hmmm I seem to recall the Primochill rigid tube required champering to use with their system (like narrowing the tip down at an angle) but it's been a long time since I decided that Monsoon's Hardline system was the best out there to work with. One of the major reasons I picked Hardline is because my testing showed it's the most consistent in it's wall thickness, which was key for transmission of my LED lighting.


----------



## ToxM82

Hey guys, after countless hours going through this thread. I am finally read to ask my question haha

I am going to build a res with the following parts id like to confirm the over all length but havent had much luck finding exact numbers besides the tubes









MMRS D5 Pump Cover (kit) Length - ? (No motor using it only for looks on either end)

MMRS Frosted Reactor Tube - 100mm

MMRS Tube Coupler Length - ?

MMRS Frosted Reactor Tube - 100mm

MMRS D5 Pump Cover (kit) Length - ? (No motor using it only for looks on either end)

x2 100mm Rods

x5 Plugs (Will use 1 center port for return from GPU on coupler)

x2 CCFL

Will be mounting vertical in a Thermaltake P5 will I need one mount kit or 2?

This is similar to what I am trying to do here, I would like to know the over all length as I am considering 150mm tubes to fill in the space.



Another question, which would be the best fittings to "reliability wise?" I am planning on using PETG16mm for the build.

Thanks guys! By the way amazing stuff here this whole thread is GOLD


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> I would like to know the over all length as I am considering 150mm tubes to fill in the space.


There are numerous copies of the following pic in this thread.










The easiest way to find it is to click on another pic, then click 'Gallery' and then scroll back.


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> There are numerous copies of the following pic in this thread.
> 
> The easiest way to find it is to click on another pic, then click 'Gallery' and then scroll back.


Saved - Thank you!


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> MMRS D5 Pump Cover (kit) Length - ? (No motor using it only for looks on either end)
> [...]
> MMRS D5 Pump Cover (kit) Length - ? (No motor using it only for looks on either end)


I don't think you can do that at the bottom; from what I can see from my res, the D5 end piece totally relies on the pump/O-ring join to make the seal.


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> I don't think you can do that at the bottom; from what I can see from my res, the D5 end piece totally relies on the pump/O-ring join to make the seal.


hmmm, so then the photo I posted there is 2 pumps actually in there? how would that work?


----------



## Mystriss

If you want to have the look of a pump on the MMRS you're going to have to add a coupler to the trap with a splitter ring from the mating kit or it won't hold water... You could probably leave the top open, just maybe block off the wire holes on the pump cover to keep out dust and such (we can do open systems) However to maintain the balanced look I suggest doing:

Pump Cover > Trp > Splitter Ring > coupler > acrylic tube > coupler > acrylic tube > coupler > splitter ring > Trp > Pump Cover (similar to this)



(The little red flags on the side denote the splitter rings from the mating kit) I come up with 320mm for the aboves height with 50mm tubes (so with 100mm tubes it'd be 420mm)

----

Sorry about the editing my photo example for this apparently didn't save.

You might want to consider using Fill/Drain ports instead as it'll give you a very similar look with a shorter profile (Wish I had an FDP on hand to see if the pump cover could slide over as a decorative element because that would be perfect for your thought):



I come up with 306mm for this res with 100mm tubes.


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> hmmm, so then the photo I posted there is 2 pumps actually in there? how would that work?


IIRC, that picture was more to show the modularity of the system, rather than a proper setup; that said, if mounted horizontally, it could actually work, in theory - losing some efficiency - in a dual loop.


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> If you want to have the look of a pump on the MMRS you're going to have to add a coupler to the trap with a splitter ring from the mating kit or it won't hold water... You could probably leave the top open, just maybe block off the wire holes on the pump cover to keep out dust and such (we can do open systems) However to maintain the balanced look I suggest doing:
> 
> Pump Cover > Trp > Splitter Ring > coupler > acrylic tube > coupler > acrylic tube > coupler > splitter ring > Trp > Pump Cover (similar to this)
> 
> (The little red flags on the side denote the splitter rings from the mating kit) I come up with 320mm for the aboves height with 50mm tubes (so with 100mm tubes it'd be 420mm)


ehh to much eye sore IMO with that, I will go with the end caps then and use the round fill ports as further dressing. Now that i have the size sheet I should be able to get an over all idea of the length.

So just to clarify the photo I posted, is that actually using a dual pump setup? how would that work pressure wise and I assume it could only be place horizontal? (For give me this is my first water build) so if this is a noob dont kill me over it








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> IIRC, that picture was more to show the modularity of the system, rather than a proper setup; that said, if mounted horizontally, it could actually work, in theory - losing some efficiency - in a dual loop.


ohh think that just got answered here, hmm to bad that would look really clean. I was digging it since it really looks like a reactor


----------



## Mystriss

And for the record, you cannot do top pumps on a vertical res, the pump would suck air and get rekt.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> ehh to much eye sore IMO with that, I will go with the end caps then and use the round fill ports as further dressing. Now that i have the size sheet I should be able to get an over all idea of the length.
> 
> So just to clarify the photo I posted, is that actually using a dual pump setup? how would that work pressure wise and I assume it could only be place horizontal? (For give me this is my first water build) so if this is a noob dont kill me over it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ohh think that just got answered here, hmm to bad that would look really clean. I was digging it since it really looks like a reactor


Just to follow up, I had a picture not save for another option for the general look you want using FDP's if you want to go back and look at my post (I edited it after you'd already replied, sorry - I blame my husband; never fails, the one minute of the day I'm trying to do something quick he's bugging me to do something else lol)

Anyway, as I noted you cannot do a top pump on a vertical res because it'd run dry. However, you can do dual pumps on a horizontal res. (My horizontal MMRS will have dual pumps in it, but I'm using a splitter ring so it'll actually be two separate reservoirs.)


----------



## Tomiger

I see that PPCs now has the vertical mounts and fill-port spacers. I can't remember if there was any word about the white parts (end caps, couplers, etc)? I know there was a shipment error a while back but did that include the white parts?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> I see that PPCs now has the vertical mounts and fill-port spacers. I can't remember if there was any word about the white parts (end caps, couplers, etc)? I know there was a shipment error a while back but did that include the white parts?


Not sure if boxgods ever decided for sure to produce white parts. I know he prototyped some, but never saw anything about where it went after that...


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Not sure if boxgods ever decided for sure to produce white parts. I know he prototyped some, but never saw anything about where it went after that...


I was under the impression that they were going with it, though I haven't heard much after these quotes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I found out why the vertical mounts are not at PPCS yet even tho they have been ready to go for weeks. They were ordered on the same PO as the new molded white parts so the whole order is holding waiting on those to finish.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Some of them. Not sure which as they always have 3 or 4 orders going at any one time (and I don't handle that part of things). I know mating kits, vertical mounts, and white parts were packaged and ready to go. The CCFL plugs are shipping on a later order I believe.


----------



## Ceadderman

PPCs is now listing white MMRS parts so, there ya go.









~Ceadder


----------



## Tomiger

I only see the original white parts that have been available and the new fill-port spacers, vertical mounts and mating kits that are in white.

I should specify by white parts, I mean the white end caps, FDP base, couplers, etc. Back on March 1st, Gene posted some prototype pictures and I'm pretty sure there was talk about sending them to PPCs unless I was imagining things haha. I guess when Gene mentioned "white parts" in regards to shipments, I was assuming he meant end caps and such.

It's no biggie for me since I was planning on painting them myself, but I held off on it to see if these would be available.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> I only see the original white parts that have been available and the new fill-port spacers, vertical mounts and mating kits that are in white.
> 
> I should specify by white parts, I mean the white end caps, FDP base, couplers, etc. Back on March 1st, Gene posted some prototype pictures and I'm pretty sure there was talk about sending them to PPCs unless I was imagining things haha. I guess when Gene mentioned "white parts" in regards to shipments, I was assuming he meant end caps and such.
> 
> It's no biggie for me since I was planning on painting them myself, but I held off on it to see if these would be available.


I am sure the white end caps will be available. I can't confirm if PPCs have them on hand or not. They started updating their site with the new MMRS products toward the end of the day on Friday.


----------



## Mega Man

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-mate-kit-white.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-d5-pump-cover-white.html


----------



## Tomiger

I'm referring to these:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/1720#post_24946206

http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/1720#post_24946601

I'll just keep checking PPCs every so often and see if they update their page. I know it must be a lot of tedious work to upload photos and product pages, so I'll be patient.


----------



## Bandalo

Is there any chance the Monsoon webpage will ever be updated with all this info? There's a TON of great information about all this stuff in this thread, but it looks like their website hasn't been updated in years. Seems a shame to have all this stuck in a single thread.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Is there any chance the Monsoon webpage will ever be updated with all this info? There's a TON of great information about all this stuff in this thread, but it looks like their website hasn't been updated in years. Seems a shame to have all this stuck in a single thread.


I agree, I'd offer some wed design services but I'm pretty busy with university and life plus I find web work incredibly boring with too many bad experiences.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Is there any chance the Monsoon webpage will ever be updated with all this info? There's a TON of great information about all this stuff in this thread, but it looks like their website hasn't been updated in years. Seems a shame to have all this stuck in a single thread.


tl:dr

he would rather design new parts then web pages


----------



## Mystriss

Alright, I'm gonna let the cat out of the bag because that's at least kinda my fault. >.< I told Gene I'd update his site and get the MMRS configuration site done for him a long ass time ago, but I got distracted with other things. I promise I'm gonna get on that as soon as I have my main rig back together folks.


----------



## Mega Man

meh

i dont care so much about the page, i prefer the products !


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Alright, I'm gonna let the cat out of the bag because that's at least kinda my fault. >.< I told Gene I'd update his site and get the MMRS configuration site done for him a long ass time ago, but I got distracted with other things. I promise I'm gonna get on that as soon as I have my main rig back together folks.


Ah you're a code monkey too? If you need help with the graphic design give me a shout.


----------



## Deedaz

Got the res mount in and the loop finished tonight! Just have to run wires and tidy it up a bit tomorrow.

well guess I'll have to post pics tomorrow, something is not working and I can't get any pics to upload


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Saw that monsoon got the separators made. Fudge. I've done blown the res budget on a 200mm monsoon. Got a question for you guys about restriction. I'm using one cpu, one 4dimm ram block, motherboard, Asus Formula, cooling, 360 rad, 240 rad, Xtreme 980ti and a flow meter. Was planing on doing a dual EK 3.2 pump but due to not having room for two res' I went ahead and got the 200mm monsoon. I still haven't bought the second pump. Recon the one 3.2 pump will provide sufficient flow. The flow meter will be between the res and the pump to make sure there is enough flow. Recon there will be? I gutted a Enthoo Luxe and I'm in the process of cutting 1/2 inch plexi to fill in the gap the HD rack left. Then I'm covering the whole back wall with white plexi. The res will be mounted directly above the pump with the flow meter in between so gravity will probably give it enough pressure to turn the meter I hope. I don't have enough room for a 2 res system. How powerful is the 3.2 compared to the D5? Should I just go with the single loop and dual pumps, about $170 plus upgrade. I want the system to be relatively quiet also. I've heard the 3.2 can be noisy when they are pushed hard and this one will be pushed VERY hard. I could add a D5 for less and I love the looks of the D5 with the revo to or the monsoon kit is awesome also. If you run two pwm pumps, an EK 3.2 and a D5 mid loop will that cause problems??? Or should I run two different loops and have them both dump into the rad?? There will be a second card added once the war is over between red and green on who has the top single gpu card. WITHIN REASON. Not paying $1500 dollar gpu. I have a budget but it's just a computer, not a boat. I've never seen pics of two pumps in one loop unless they're in a dual pump top. How would you set it up? CPU and motherboard on one pump and gpu on another and letting them both empty into the res??? I know, a lot of question............ If you think the 3.2 will do the trick then I'll just continue on. I don't want to effect my temps with low flow though, I already have slow ek fans but they're in push/pull though on both the EK PE360 and the Black Ice 240 GTX Nemesis, soooooo, a lot of restriction. I'd just hate to do all that mock up PETG and then cutting all the glass to have to change something after all's said and done costing me even more money. Where would you go from here??

On another note the 1/2 inch plexi will be screwed and glued to fill in the HD cage hole and 3 inch triangles will be screwed and glued in all four corners of the Luxe case for rigidity. So I shouldn't have any problems with using real glass.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Saw that monsoon got the separators made. Fudge. I've done blown the res budget on a 200mm monsoon.
> 
> Got a question for you guys about restriction. I'm using one cpu, one 4dimm ram block, motherboard, Asus Formula, cooling, 360 rad, 240 rad, Xtreme 980ti and a flow meter. Was planing on doing a dual EK 3.2 pump but due to not having room for two res' I went ahead and got the 200mm monsoon. I still haven't bought the second pump. Recon the one 3.2 pump will provide sufficient flow. The flow meter will be between the res and the pump to make sure there is enough flow. Recon there will be?
> 
> I gutted a Enthoo Luxe and I'm in the process of cutting 1/2 inch plexi to fill in the gap the HD rack left. Then I'm covering the whole back wall with white plexi.
> 
> The res will be mounted directly above the pump with the flow meter in between so gravity will probably give it enough pressure to turn the meter I hope. I don't have enough room for a 2 res system. How powerful is the 3.2 compared to the D5?
> 
> Should I just go with the single loop and dual pumps, about $170 plus upgrade. I want the system to be relatively quiet also. I've heard the 3.2 can be noisy when they are pushed hard and this one will be pushed VERY hard. I could add a D5 for less and I love the looks of the D5 with the revo to or the monsoon kit is awesome also. If you run two pwm pumps, an EK 3.2 and a D5 mid loop will that cause problems???
> 
> Or should I run two different loops and have them both dump into the rad?? There will be a second card added once the war is over between red and green on who has the top single gpu card. WITHIN REASON. Not paying $1500 dollar gpu. I have a budget but it's just a computer, not a boat. I've never seen pics of two pumps in one loop unless they're in a dual pump top. How would you set it up? CPU and motherboard on one pump and gpu on another and letting them both empty into the res??? I know, a lot of question............ If you think the 3.2 will do the trick then I'll just continue on. I don't want to effect my temps with low flow though, I already have slow ek fans but they're in push/pull though on both the EK PE360 and the Black Ice 240 GTX Nemesis, soooooo, a lot of restriction. I'd just hate to do all that mock up PETG and then cutting all the glass to have to change something after all's said and done costing me even more money. Where would you go from here??
> 
> On another note the 1/2 inch plexi will be screwed and glued to fill in the HD cage hole and 3 inch triangles will be screwed and glued in all four corners of the Luxe case for rigidity. So I shouldn't have any problems with using real glass.


Fixed. OMG, that paragraph made my OCD hurt.









Single 3.2 should be more than ample if you're running a single loop. And now that you have that 3.2, just stick with another 3.2 imho.

DDC has better head pressure over D5 and D5 have better rate of flow over DDC. It truly doesn't matter which you run, just so long as you have something cooling the DDC. The bottoms of them tend to get hot and heat (as we all know) can shorten the lifespan of electrical components.









Radiators don't really qualify for "Restriction" as the tank fills it goes to straight pipe (in most cases cept for XFlow models) and out through the other side of the fill tank.

So you have GPU/CPU and MB blocks. Those are your restrictions unless you add a lot of 90* fittings in your loop. The size of your case is not even a hindrance on your rate of flow.









I had zero issues running CPU/GPU loop with my Bmaverick brand DDC 1T in single pump(part of dual pump setup) and only used the 2nd pump for emergency backup. So other than purchasing a second 3.2 for backup I'd suggest running it in single loop, single pump to start and add the 2nd IF necessary. 1T has less head pressure than 3.2. You should be fine. Even if you run Hardline it wouldn't take much to add in the 2nd.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Saw that monsoon got the separators made. Fudge. I've done blown the res budget on a 200mm monsoon. Got a question for you guys about restriction. I'm using one cpu, one 4dimm ram block, motherboard, Asus Formula, cooling, 360 rad, 240 rad, Xtreme 980ti and a flow meter. Was planing on doing a dual EK 3.2 pump but due to not having room for two res' I went ahead and got the 200mm monsoon. I still haven't bought the second pump. Recon the one 3.2 pump will provide sufficient flow. The flow meter will be between the res and the pump to make sure there is enough flow. Recon there will be? I gutted a Enthoo Luxe and I'm in the process of cutting 1/2 inch plexi to fill in the gap the HD rack left. Then I'm covering the whole back wall with white plexi. The res will be mounted directly above the pump with the flow meter in between so gravity will probably give it enough pressure to turn the meter I hope. I don't have enough room for a 2 res system. How powerful is the 3.2 compared to the D5? Should I just go with the single loop and dual pumps, about $170 plus upgrade. I want the system to be relatively quiet also. I've heard the 3.2 can be noisy when they are pushed hard and this one will be pushed VERY hard. I could add a D5 for less and I love the looks of the D5 with the revo to or the monsoon kit is awesome also. If you run two pwm pumps, an EK 3.2 and a D5 mid loop will that cause problems??? Or should I run two different loops and have them both dump into the rad?? There will be a second card added once the war is over between red and green on who has the top single gpu card. WITHIN REASON. Not paying $1500 dollar gpu. I have a budget but it's just a computer, not a boat. I've never seen pics of two pumps in one loop unless they're in a dual pump top. How would you set it up? CPU and motherboard on one pump and gpu on another and letting them both empty into the res??? I know, a lot of question............ If you think the 3.2 will do the trick then I'll just continue on. I don't want to effect my temps with low flow though, I already have slow ek fans but they're in push/pull though on both the *EK PE360 and the Black Ice 240 GTX Nemesis*, soooooo, a lot of restriction. I'd just hate to do all that mock up PETG and then cutting all the glass to have to change something after all's said and done costing me even more money. Where would you go from here??
> 
> On another note the 1/2 inch plexi will be screwed and glued to fill in the HD cage hole and 3 inch triangles will be screwed and glued in all four corners of the Luxe case for rigidity. So I shouldn't have any problems with using real glass.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed. OMG, that paragraph made my OCD hurt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Single 3.2 should be more than ample if you're running a single loop. And now that you have that 3.2, just stick with another 3.2 imho.
> 
> DDC has better head pressure over D5 and D5 have better rate of flow over DDC. It truly doesn't matter which you run, just so long as you have something cooling the DDC. The bottoms of them tend to get hot and heat (as we all know) can shorten the lifespan of electrical components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Radiators don't really qualify for "Restriction"* as the tank fills it goes to straight pipe (in most cases cept for XFlow models) and out through the other side of the fill tank.
> 
> So you have GPU/CPU and MB blocks. Those are your restrictions unless you add a lot of 90* fittings in your loop. The size of your case is not even a hindrance on your rate of flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had zero issues running CPU/GPU loop with my Bmaverick brand DDC 1T in single pump(part of dual pump setup) and only used the 2nd pump for emergency backup. So other than purchasing a second 3.2 for backup I'd suggest running it in single loop, single pump to start and add the 2nd IF necessary. 1T has less head pressure than 3.2. You should be fine. Even if you run Hardline it wouldn't take much to add in the 2nd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well........ radiators do in fact qualify for restriction in the loop.
While the vast majority are low in restriction, some are more restrictive than CPU or GPU blocks.

The PE 360 and Nemesis 280 GTX are both reasonably low so not too much for @19DELTASNAFU to worry about, but if he meant Nemesis GTS - that's a different story.


----------



## Mystriss

YAY my mating kit arrived! Woooboy am I pushing it on the width though, I sure hope I can fit the extension pieces on for the AQ D5 pumps or I'm going to have to drop down to a 100mm  Still... it's beutifwul:



Here's what the mating kit rings look like installed in case anyone was wondering (This ones the splitter ring so that's actually two separate reservoirs):


----------



## Deedaz

Here's a couple of pics after getting the res installed with the vertical mount. The rest are in the X5 build log in my sig. I love these Monsoon reservoirs!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Saw that monsoon got the separators made. Fudge. I've done blown the res budget on a 200mm monsoon. Got a question for you guys about restriction. I'm using one cpu, one 4dimm ram block, motherboard, Asus Formula, cooling, 360 rad, 240 rad, Xtreme 980ti and a flow meter. Was planing on doing a dual EK 3.2 pump but due to not having room for two res' I went ahead and got the 200mm monsoon. I still haven't bought the second pump. Recon the one 3.2 pump will provide sufficient flow. The flow meter will be between the res and the pump to make sure there is enough flow. Recon there will be? I gutted a Enthoo Luxe and I'm in the process of cutting 1/2 inch plexi to fill in the gap the HD rack left. Then I'm covering the whole back wall with white plexi. The res will be mounted directly above the pump with the flow meter in between so gravity will probably give it enough pressure to turn the meter I hope. I don't have enough room for a 2 res system. How powerful is the 3.2 compared to the D5? Should I just go with the single loop and dual pumps, about $170 plus upgrade. I want the system to be relatively quiet also. I've heard the 3.2 can be noisy when they are pushed hard and this one will be pushed VERY hard. I could add a D5 for less and I love the looks of the D5 with the revo to or the monsoon kit is awesome also. If you run two pwm pumps, an EK 3.2 and a D5 mid loop will that cause problems??? Or should I run two different loops and have them both dump into the rad?? There will be a second card added once the war is over between red and green on who has the top single gpu card. WITHIN REASON. Not paying $1500 dollar gpu. I have a budget but it's just a computer, not a boat. I've never seen pics of two pumps in one loop unless they're in a dual pump top. How would you set it up? CPU and motherboard on one pump and gpu on another and letting them both empty into the res??? I know, a lot of question............ If you think the 3.2 will do the trick then I'll just continue on. I don't want to effect my temps with low flow though, I already have slow ek fans but they're in push/pull though on both the *EK PE360 and the Black Ice 240 GTX Nemesis*, soooooo, a lot of restriction. I'd just hate to do all that mock up PETG and then cutting all the glass to have to change something after all's said and done costing me even more money. Where would you go from here??
> 
> On another note the 1/2 inch plexi will be screwed and glued to fill in the HD cage hole and 3 inch triangles will be screwed and glued in all four corners of the Luxe case for rigidity. So I shouldn't have any problems with using real glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed. OMG, that paragraph made my OCD hurt.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Single 3.2 should be more than ample if you're running a single loop. And now that you have that 3.2, just stick with another 3.2 imho.
> 
> DDC has better head pressure over D5 and D5 have better rate of flow over DDC. It truly doesn't matter which you run, just so long as you have something cooling the DDC. The bottoms of them tend to get hot and heat (as we all know) can shorten the lifespan of electrical components.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Radiators don't really qualify for "Restriction"* as the tank fills it goes to straight pipe (in most cases cept for XFlow models) and out through the other side of the fill tank.
> 
> So you have GPU/CPU and MB blocks. Those are your restrictions unless you add a lot of 90* fittings in your loop. The size of your case is not even a hindrance on your rate of flow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had zero issues running CPU/GPU loop with my Bmaverick brand DDC 1T in single pump(part of dual pump setup) and only used the 2nd pump for emergency backup. So other than purchasing a second 3.2 for backup I'd suggest running it in single loop, single pump to start and add the 2nd IF necessary. 1T has less head pressure than 3.2. You should be fine. Even if you run Hardline it wouldn't take much to add in the 2nd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well........ radiators do in fact qualify for restriction in the loop.
> While the vast majority are low in restriction, some are more restrictive than CPU or GPU blocks.
> 
> The PE 360 and Nemesis 280 GTX are both reasonably low so not too much for @19DELTASNAFU to worry about, but if he meant Nemesis GTS - that's a different story.
Click to expand...

Ahhh, learn somethng new every day. I guess some Radiators do in fact qualify as a restriction.









+Rep to my brotha Fast Fate.









~Ceadder


----------



## bukkit

i've lurked this thread before it even hit page 100 and it has blown up so much since then so i might have missed it but are the white end caps available yet? i've been holding off on getting the black ones since white matches my case.

edit: noticed my rig specs hasn't been updated lol i'll have to do that soon.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Ahhh, learn somethng new every day. I guess some Radiators do in fact qualify as a restriction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +Rep to my brotha Fast Fate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Don't see a listing to the HL radiator. http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-240gtx-ultra-stealth-dual-core-xtreme-profile-radiator-white.html

Also, add in the motherboard cooling. But I'm gonna proceed without changes. Gotta get this thing built one day. 1080s seem pretty awesome too..... ughhh.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bukkit*
> 
> i've lurked this thread before it even hit page 100 and it has blown up so much since then so i might have missed it but are the white end caps available yet? i've been holding off on getting the black ones since white matches my case.
> 
> edit: noticed my rig specs hasn't been updated lol i'll have to do that soon.


They're definitely not on PPCs yet. I've been trying to figure out if they were included in the recent shipment sent to PPCs, but it seems like they weren't. I am waiting for a reply from them about whether they're expecting them or not. I figured that was easier than trying to hassle Gene, since I think he's on vacation/out of town.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bukkit*
> 
> i've lurked this thread before it even hit page 100 and it has blown up so much since then so i might have missed it but are the white end caps available yet? i've been holding off on getting the black ones since white matches my case.
> 
> edit: noticed my rig specs hasn't been updated lol i'll have to do that soon.
> 
> 
> 
> They're definitely not on PPCs yet. I've been trying to figure out if they were included in the recent shipment sent to PPCs, but it seems like they weren't. I am waiting for a reply from them about whether they're expecting them or not. I figured that was easier than trying to hassle Gene, since I think he's on vacation/out of town.
Click to expand...

Since the white couplers are there, we can only hope the end caps are in transit.


----------



## Mystriss

If I recall right the white coupler's had been sent but PPCS hadn't put them on the site yet - bunch of back end code work has to be done to get them up on the site - so I believe we're just waiting for their peeps to have time to code that up. I don't think PPCS has a huge staff, I'm guessing maybe 1 coder, we can't expect him/her to /only/ put in Monsoon products







They've been moving fairly well though so I'd expect to see the white coupler's in the next couple weeks









Also, man the vertical mount is nice, can't even see it! Floating res FTW!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> *we can't expect him/her to /only/ put in Monsoon products*


The hades we can't.
















lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> *we can't expect him/her to /only/ put in Monsoon products*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hades we can't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I love PPCS, it's a daily site I browse, but every line of code that gets added chokes my Chrome to no end!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> *we can't expect him/her to /only/ put in Monsoon products*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hades we can't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I love PPCS, it's a daily site I browse, but every line of code that gets added chokes my Chrome to no end!
Click to expand...

I honestly don't know why. Chrome is my daily driver and I never have issues with PPCs site.









~Ceadder


----------



## thedoo

Is there anyway to attach the res to a radiator or fan mount yet? I saw in April there was talk about a design for 120/140mm mounting options but I'm not sure if that is still coming or not.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> The hades we can't.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder










It's funny you use "Hades" there [to me anyway] back in the late 80s my BBS (pre-internet) handle's were Persephone and Kore. I've always been a bit of a mythology nut. This handles a bit of a hybrid; my handle for the past oh 20 years or so has been Mystri which stands for the Mysterious Three, rumored to be a facet of Odin, God of Knowledge







(The SS on Mystriss actually stands of "ScreenShot" cause ego heh)


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoo*
> 
> Is there anyway to attach the res to a radiator or fan mount yet? I saw in April there was talk about a design for 120/140mm mounting options but I'm not sure if that is still coming or not.


If I recall correctly Gene had sent out for a production run of 120 and 140mm rad fan mounts about... a month ago or so. I think that was the last I heard, though I could have missed a post in here - this thread gets a lot of action


----------



## MrMD

I skimmed the past months posts and cant see it mentioned(maybe im blind







). Any word on when EU retailers will have these,been ages







.

Rebuilding my rig with a pascal card next month,and i stil have my funky idea of adding an MMRS into my 540


----------



## Mystriss

I searched it up for ya









Post #2174 ~ http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/2170#post_25072882

This would be manufacturing a prototype I believe. Didn't see any updates past that though.


----------



## NeeqOne

I just installed the vertical mount.


----------



## Mystriss

Making me all jelly that I can't has for my build (cause of the AQ pump extensions) - I could totally tuck those behind my brushed aluminum side panels and it'd be an invisible mount QQ


----------



## Radnad

Wow, that vertical mount stealths really well. May have to consider that instead of mounting to the wall of the case.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Making me all jelly that I can't has for my build (cause of the AQ pump extensions) - I could totally tuck those behind my brushed aluminum side panels and it'd be an invisible mount QQ


It seems with the AQ pump extension, the vertical mount wont fit. I am happy to leave the pump this way.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Wow, that vertical mount stealths really well. May have to consider that instead of mounting to the wall of the case.


Yeah. my plan was to mount the reservoir perpendicular to the MB. However, I like the current positioning much better. I will drill the necessary holes when I start doing the tubing.


----------



## Mystriss

Yeah, the AQ pump extension makes it too tall for the vertical mounts.









It's not so bad for me, I'll just use the 12mm pump mounts and adjust my front case panel cover design.


----------



## geox19

Bought some monsoon stuff. Pretty impressed with the innovation. Don't like this though just bought it never installed oh well I ordered another. One of the bay res light board is bad as well wonder where I get one of them if I bend the board it works maybe I'll try to take a heat gun to it.


----------



## Mystriss

I'm not up to par on how these are made, but I believe they're extruded parts; if that is the case then it's just a bit of overflow that wasn't cleaned up properly and/or slipped through QA. I personally wouldn't heat gun it, I'd just send it back and get a replacement.


----------



## Malum

That part is not extruded, but presure moulded. I work with plastick pressure moulding mashines, and therefore I'm certain that that is how they are made. Besides extruding those component Would be very diffecult due to the shape of it. Extruding is more used for hoses, panels, plastic backs ect.

But as mystriss says don't try to "fix " the part, just return it as it is clearly a mishap in their QA where they made it.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> That part is not extruded, but presure moulded. I work with plastick pressure moulding mashines, and therefore I'm certain that that is how they are made. Besides extruding those component Would be very diffecult due to the shape of it. Extruding is more used for hoses, panels, plastic backs ect.
> 
> But as mystriss says don't try to "fix " the part, just return it as it is clearly a mishap in their QA where they made it.


Yes these parts are molded, so I'm pretty sure that was a flaw where the parting line of the mold was. You can RMA it no problem, but honestly these parts are solid nylon, I doubt it would cause any performance issues and it will never be seen where it's at.


----------



## Mystriss

I think I got my terms mixed up there, but yea overflow vs a "crack" I'd think heh


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I think I got my terms mixed up there, but yea overflow vs a "crack" I'd think heh


I'm no expert but have done a little injection molding in the past. It looks like a short shot to me, where the molten material didn't fill the entire mold, or it could have been a microgap in the parting line of the molded halves that caused air or gas to enter filling the space instead of the molten material.


----------



## Mystriss

That sounds suspiciously like expert speak to me.









So it'd be an "under-flow"? Its funny how going back and looking at the picture it can look like all of these things. (cracks, overflow, underflow) This just reaffirms my preference for hands-on heh I'll have to ask Gene when he gets home from vacation, just to satisfy our [namely my] curiosity!

Either way, I'd think that flaw would create some turbulence in the water, maybe even some flow noise? Not to mention, if it's an underflow wouldn't this mean there could be additional unseen holes that might weaken the "structural mechanics" - imagine a weakened spot at the juncture of the acrylic tube o-ring for example... Not worth risking imo, RMA it! heh


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Yes these parts are molded, so I'm pretty sure that was a flaw where the parting line of the mold was. You can RMA it no problem, but honestly these parts are solid nylon, I doubt it would cause any performance issues and it will never be seen where it's at.


I agree with it not effecting performance I think it was only $10.00 or so cost more to send it back. I just use it for mock ups. I Would sure like to get a new light board though for the bay res.


----------



## TobagoCay

I need some help/advice - did my first hardline tubing bends this weekend using all the Monsoon tools but with mixed results. I expected a learning curve, so not too upset, but I am running into some consistent issues and I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced the same thing. First off I am using the Monsoon 5/8" PETG tubing and that may be the source of some of the issues. I think Gene was using acrylic tubing in all of his videos so the "softer" PETG may account for some of the differences. The initial problem came with cutting using the miter box - something I expected to be pretty simple and straight forward. This isn't the first time I have used a miter box but it is the first time I cut into the box itself.



The aluminium is so soft that I cut right into the metal and of course had a horrible, off-plane end to the tube. After a few more tries with similar results I tried not covering the cut with blue masking tape (as Gene does in the video). I still put some tape on to help hold the tube in the miter box but placed the tape farther back and kept the cut area clear so I could see what I was doing. I also clamped the miter box to my workbench with a vise as opposed to holding it by hand. Together these steps helped a lot, so if anyone else is having this issue you might try these. Am I the only one to ever have this problem? Maybe I am pressing too hard or something but it looks so easy when watching Gene do it in the video I was really surprised this turned into such as issue. I also had poor results with the reamer, but again I think that is due to the PETG. The 440 grit wet sandpaper that Gene suggested worked much better for me than the reamer.

The next issue I had was with a strange pattern that kept showing up in the tube after bending it. Don't know if you can see this or not but look on both side of the light flare.



At first I though it was just poor technique on my part (no surprise there) but after several bends it still kept showing up. Then I though it might be the silicon tube insert. That didn't make much sense but it did get me looking closely at the pattern and it was always on the outside and in the areas where I was holding the tube while it cooled. Then it finally dawned on me - it is the pattern from the gloves that come with the bending kit. I also realized that some of the deformations that I though were just from poor bends actually came from me squeezing the tube on the mandrel while it was cooling. The PETG heats up so fast compared to acrylic I'm thinking that maybe I'm getting it too hot. I tried using my heat gun on the lower setting and that seemed to help some, but I'm still trying to figure out how to hold the tube in place and not leave an impression. Maybe I should try smooth gloves. Has anyone else run into this? Is this just a PETG thing and not an issue with acrylic? If so, I may just have to switch to acrylic.

Lastly, just a quick suggestion to other newbies like me. If you are trying to do a really short run before a bend on a different plane, and you are using the mandrels as shown in the 3rd video, you may run into this problem:



The second bend was only 55 mm from the first bend and the mandrel setup Gene shows in the 3rd video wouldn't work - they actually were touching each other. So after some head scratching I came up with an alternative configuration that worked great:



It's not really a big idea or anything, just common sense, but if you're new at this like me then make sure to try different configurations of these mandrels - the flexibility of the entire kit together is really amazing - well designed Boxgods!


----------



## TobagoCay

My last post was getting long, so I broke this out as a separate question. I'd be surprised if this hasn't been answered before but I've searched the thread and can't find the answer, so I apologize in advance if this is a repeat. With the hardlock fittings, the video does not show using a black o-ring inside the lock collar, but when you buy the fitting they show up with 2 o-rings, one in the base and one in the lock collar.



Is that just an extra o-ring in the lock collar or is it supposed to stay in there? Is this a design change that occurred after the video was shot? Given some of the issues I mentioned in my other post about the trouble I've been having getting a straight cut, having an o-ring inside the lock collar seems to make some sense, but it's not shown in the video and it definitely messes with my measurements. Good thing is if they are supposed to be there I can just trim a little off the ends, but I'd like to find out for sure before making any changes.


----------



## Ceadderman

You only need 2 rings for those fittings.

The flat ring is the internal ring for the fitting. The smaller diameter round ring is for the base where the G1/4 fits into the port of whatever component you're fitting to.

My last couple of boxes of Economies arrived without the base seals installed so double check all of your fittings if you haven't done so already. That flat one in the collar is the spare that goes into the internal channel.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

You can use one of THESE to cut the PETG. Don't try it with acrylic though.


----------



## Ceadderman

Or simply get one of these.

There are cheaper ones out there of course but Google isn't cooperating with me on the matter. Harbor Freight had one that was ~$40 but they don't seem to be easy to find on their site either.









Check " 2" cutoff saw" on eBay. Quite a few reasonable deals there it seems.









~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

Either one of those cut awesome. The Kobalt one cuts fast and clean. The traditional pipe cutter gives very precise cuts.


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You only need 2 rings for those fittings.
> 
> The flat ring is the internal ring for the fitting. The smaller diameter round ring is for the base where the G1/4 fits into the port of whatever component you're fitting to.
> 
> My last couple of boxes of Economies arrived without the base seals installed so double check all of your fittings if you haven't done so already. That flat one in the collar is the spare that goes into the internal channel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks. I should have mentioned that I was not talking about the round ring. There is a small bag of those in the fitting 6 pack, both red and black, and I know where they go. My confusion is over just the flat black ring and there are two of those provided, one of which is placed inside the lock collar which is confusing since it makes it look like it it supposed to be there.


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> 
> 
> Either one of those cut awesome. The Kobalt one cuts fast and clean. The traditional pipe cutter gives very precise cuts.


Damn, I never even thought about using my traditional pipe cutter - I'll give it a try. Thanks for the idea/reminder!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> I need some help/advice - did my first hardline tubing bends this weekend using all the Monsoon tools but with mixed results. I expected a learning curve, so not too upset, but I am running into some consistent issues and I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced the same thing. First off I am using the Monsoon 5/8" PETG tubing and that may be the source of some of the issues. I think Gene was using acrylic tubing in all of his videos so the "softer" PETG may account for some of the differences. The initial problem came with cutting using the miter box - something I expected to be pretty simple and straight forward. This isn't the first time I have used a miter box but it is the first time I cut into the box itself.
> 
> The aluminium is so soft that I cut right into the metal and of course had a horrible, off-plane end to the tube. After a few more tries with similar results I tried not covering the cut with blue masking tape (as Gene does in the video). I still put some tape on to help hold the tube in the miter box but placed the tape farther back and kept the cut area clear so I could see what I was doing. I also clamped the miter box to my workbench with a vise as opposed to holding it by hand. Together these steps helped a lot, so if anyone else is having this issue you might try these. Am I the only one to ever have this problem? Maybe I am pressing too hard or something but it looks so easy when watching Gene do it in the video I was really surprised this turned into such as issue. I also had poor results with the reamer, but again I think that is due to the PETG. The 440 grit wet sandpaper that Gene suggested worked much better for me than the reamer.
> 
> The next issue I had was with a strange pattern that kept showing up in the tube after bending it. Don't know if you can see this or not but look on both side of the light flare.
> 
> At first I though it was just poor technique on my part (no surprise there) but after several bends it still kept showing up. Then I though it might be the silicon tube insert. That didn't make much sense but it did get me looking closely at the pattern and it was always on the outside and in the areas where I was holding the tube while it cooled. Then it finally dawned on me - it is the pattern from the gloves that come with the bending kit. I also realized that some of the deformations that I though were just from poor bends actually came from me squeezing the tube on the mandrel while it was cooling. The PETG heats up so fast compared to acrylic I'm thinking that maybe I'm getting it too hot. I tried using my heat gun on the lower setting and that seemed to help some, but I'm still trying to figure out how to hold the tube in place and not leave an impression. Maybe I should try smooth gloves. Has anyone else run into this? Is this just a PETG thing and not an issue with acrylic? If so, I may just have to switch to acrylic.
> 
> Lastly, just a quick suggestion to other newbies like me. If you are trying to do a really short run before a bend on a different plane, and you are using the mandrels as shown in the 3rd video, you may run into this problem:
> 
> The second bend was only 55 mm from the first bend and the mandrel setup Gene shows in the 3rd video wouldn't work - they actually were touching each other. So after some head scratching I came up with an alternative configuration that worked great:
> 
> It's not really a big idea or anything, just common sense, but if you're new at this like me then make sure to try different configurations of these mandrels - the flexibility of the entire kit together is really amazing - well designed Boxgods!


*On Stretch marks--*

You typically see stretch marks like that on the outside of the bend radius from tube that is either not quite hot enough or that is being bent too rapidly--or a combination of the two. Because the outside radius has to stretch a lot more than the inside radius incorrect heat levels or bending too fast will usually show up there.
*
On the miter box--*

Usually cutting into the miter box is a sign of trying to cut too fast or pushing down on the saw too hard. Slow down a bit and don't put much if any downward pressure on the blade--that old saying, "let the saw do the work". I have noticed with two people building here in my shop that had problems cutting into the miter box and were both left handed. I seriously doubt handedness has any real correlation as neither the saw or box has a left / right orientation. The very rough edges on your cut also are an indication of too much speed and pressure on the saw.
*
On Mandrel Spacing--*

That is one of the reasons i Include the 360 mandrel =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Thanks. I should have mentioned that I was not talking about the round ring. There is a small bag of those in the fitting 6 pack, both red and black, and I know where they go. My confusion is over just the flat black ring and there are two of those provided, one of which is placed inside the lock collar which is confusing since it makes it look like it it supposed to be there.


The second is just a spare...never fails one rolls off the bench and falls into an alternate universe. The one where missing socks and "checks in the mail" end up =)


----------



## BoxGods

Well I am back from vacation. Special thanks to Mistress and everyone for answering questions while I was away.

I had intended to pop in here every few days to check in but thinking I could use my tablet for that was a mistake. T Mobile also has horrible coverage in Northern California--though to be fair we did spend a lot of time in the middle of the sticks. Yosemite was beautiful. As was Carmel by the Sea and San Francisco. Vegas was a blast as always.

Disney...man I can't imagine a more frustrating place to visit. A hundred bucks a person to stand in line endlessly for everything. Even the bathrooms have long lines--and we were traveling with a woman 5 months pregnant, (they pee a LOT). One shop full of crap after the next. Crappy over priced food.

Other than the end at Disney it was a fantastic trip. There was an art installation / fountain at the City Center mall in Vegas (by Aria) of these water vortex tubes...just fascinated me. The tubes were about a foot in diameter and varying heights to over six feet tall. Coming out of the floor at different angles. They had different sizes of vortexes and the water would rize and fall changing the size and shape. I doubt any water cooler could walk by and not be just mesmerized lol.

Videos don't do them justice of course but I found this one on you tube.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> I agree with it not effecting performance I think it was only $10.00 or so cost more to send it back. I just use it for mock ups. I Would sure like to get a new light board though for the bay res.


I am back. If you emailed me for a replacement LED board for an M2 reservoir I will be digging into my email first thing in the AM. If you haven't emailed me go ahead and send me your shipping info and I will get a replacement board in the mail to you right away.


----------



## Ceadderman

Haha yeah. I went to Disney in '87 and I have to say the experience was meh. Of course I was fresh out of Basic the Fall monsoon season was upon us and I was wearing my Whites which were cut slightly too long in the leg. So even though I was wearing my foul weather coat water was wicking up my legs. Felt bad for the girls wearing the mascot gear. That has to be one of the more taxng jobs at the park. Rain or Shine.













Those are soooooo cool.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

~closes her mouth, hastily wiping off a bit of drool off her chin as the vortex's settle~ Oh hey... Welcome back!


----------



## BoxGods

The videos on you tube don't really capture them very well either. The water levels in the tubes rise and fall and I guess they alter the rotation speed because some of them are big tornado like tubes that look like a surfing video when you look down the "tunnel". Others are funnels six inches in diameter that run top to bottom (over six feet long). Some of the tubes are only four feet long and the vortex touches the top acrylic so you can also look down into those. Some are full length but only about as thick as your pinky and they really bend around a lot.

Just really really cool.


----------



## ToxM82

Question,

If I order the (Monsoon MMRS D5 Pump Cover) but have no pump what pump should I order or do you recommend and do I need anything else to go with this to complete the pump/cover? Id like a PWM style.

Thank you,


----------



## BoxGods

I personally like the basic D5 or maybe the vario. Some people like the ALPHACOOL PWM. Comes down to your personal preference mostly. If you go with the Alpha you will need to add in the extension ring that increases the length of the motor mounting tube by about 10mm.

They are being packaged now and should be at PPCS in a few weeks or less. Also, the Alpha can be installed without the ring and you can build out your rig, then add the ring later without needing to take anything apart.


----------



## Mega Man

Do you mean the aquacomputer usb d5?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Do you mean the aquacomputer usb d5?


Whoops. Yes.


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I personally like the basic D5 or maybe the vario. Some people like the ALPHACOOL PWM. Comes down to your personal preference mostly. If you go with the Alpha you will need to add in the extension ring that increases the length of the motor mounting tube by about 10mm.
> 
> They are being packaged now and should be at PPCS in a few weeks or less. Also, the Alpha can be installed without the ring and you can build out your rig, then add the ring later without needing to take anything apart.


You talking about this one here:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html#Features

This has a built in temp sensor? What is the spacer you are talking about.


----------



## ruffhi

That particular pump has a whole lot of pins sticking out the back. They make the pump longer and won't fit in the monsoon cover. This post illustrates BoxGods' approach to dealing with the long sucker ... put some spacers around the top of the pump housing and making extra room where needed.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I personally like the basic D5 or maybe the vario. Some people like the ALPHACOOL PWM. Comes down to your personal preference mostly. If you go with the Alpha you will need to add in the extension ring that increases the length of the motor mounting tube by about 10mm.
> 
> They are being packaged now and should be at PPCS in a few weeks or less. Also, the Alpha can be installed without the ring and you can build out your rig, then add the ring later without needing to take anything apart.
> 
> 
> 
> You talking about this one here:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/aquacomputer-d5-pump-mechanics-with-usb-and-aquabus-interface.html#Features
> 
> This has a built in temp sensor? What is the spacer you are talking about.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Update on a few items for you guys (and Mystress)
> 
> First up the D5 mounting tube extension ring for the Aqua.
> 
> 
> This is the extension ring added to the mounting tube. It adds 10mm of depth. Shown in raw aluminum--will be available in all the colors of course.
> 
> 
> The extensions are "stackable" so you could use 2 or more if needed. Held in place via the same set screws used for the end cover.
> 
> 
> A view from the inside of the extension and the stock cover. Again the test sample I used is just raw aluminum--these will come in all 10 monsoon color finishes.
> 
> Next up is the mating kit:


----------



## BoxGods

Actually it was Mystriss'es suggestion...my solution was longer caps and was not nearly as clever.


----------



## Mystriss

I didn't do it!

uhm, okay maybe, but it was totally an accident... That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> I didn't do it!
> 
> uhm, okay maybe, but it was totally an accident... That's my story, and I'm sticking to it.


No shame in taking credit where credit is due. I know other manufacturers listen to their customers also, but none of them interact in the way that Boxgods does and let's the community directly drive product design. He is on a level above everyone else imo.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Actually it was Mystriss'es suggestion...my solution was longer caps and was not nearly as clever.


maybe. but instead of ignoring us, for our 1 product, you said SURE !!! thanks, alot ! my next few res will be monsoon !~


----------



## BoxGods

Thanks for the kind words









White parts are DONE. Packaged, and ready to ship so keep an eye out for those. The new CCFL plugs are just finishing USW (Ultra Sonic Welding) and should be ready to ship Wednesday. Inverters (two and four bulb units) are also done and we are just waiting on the little velcro pads so those should ship Wednesday as well.

Still plugging away on the new rad mounts. A lot of different screws to gather up so a few more weeks on those.

New Ev2 fittings are also almost done packaging so "very soon".

Probably forgot one or two things but thou art updated.


----------



## seross69

thank you kind SIR


----------



## VSG

Great news


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White parts are DONE. Packaged, and ready to ship so keep an eye out for those. The new CCFL plugs are just finishing USW (Ultra Sonic Welding) and should be ready to ship Wednesday. Inverters (two and four bulb units) are also done and we are just waiting on the little velcro pads so those should ship Wednesday as well.
> 
> Still plugging away on the new rad mounts. A lot of different screws to gather up so a few more weeks on those.
> 
> New Ev2 fittings are also almost done packaging so "very soon".
> 
> Probably forgot one or two things but thou art updated.


just my opinion the Velcro- i hate it. make them mountable everything else is you even have pressure distribution plates ( not saying to use that for this ) just give us 2 nice looking screws and screw holes in addition to the velcro @!


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White parts are DONE. Packaged, and ready to ship so keep an eye out for those. The new CCFL plugs are just finishing USW (Ultra Sonic Welding) and should be ready to ship Wednesday. Inverters (two and four bulb units) are also done and we are just waiting on the little velcro pads so those should ship Wednesday as well.
> 
> Still plugging away on the new rad mounts. A lot of different screws to gather up so a few more weeks on those.
> 
> New Ev2 fittings are also almost done packaging so "very soon".
> 
> Probably forgot one or two things but thou art updated.


Are PPCS the only place who gets the MMRS parts, and the white parts?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White parts are DONE. Packaged, and ready to ship so keep an eye out for those. The new CCFL plugs are just finishing USW (Ultra Sonic Welding) and should be ready to ship Wednesday. Inverters (two and four bulb units) are also done and we are just waiting on the little velcro pads so those should ship Wednesday as well.
> 
> Still plugging away on the new rad mounts. A lot of different screws to gather up so a few more weeks on those.
> 
> New Ev2 fittings are also almost done packaging so "very soon".
> 
> Probably forgot one or two things but thou art updated.
> 
> 
> 
> just my opinion the Velcro- i hate it. make them mountable everything else is you even have pressure distribution plates ( not saying to use that for this ) just give us 2 nice looking screws and screw holes in addition to the velcro @!
Click to expand...

Agreed. Leave the velcro to logisys.


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> just my opinion the Velcro- i hate it. make them mountable everything else is you even have pressure distribution plates ( not saying to use that for this ) just give us 2 nice looking screws and screw holes in addition to the velcro @!


Absolutely this








It's okay to do the velcro option, but there should also be a Real mounting option for those of us who doesn't like the Cheasy "tape" methods


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Thanks for the kind words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> White parts are DONE. Packaged, and ready to ship so keep an eye out for those. The new CCFL plugs are just finishing USW (Ultra Sonic Welding) and should be ready to ship Wednesday. Inverters (two and four bulb units) are also done and we are just waiting on the little velcro pads so those should ship Wednesday as well.
> 
> Still plugging away on the new rad mounts. A lot of different screws to gather up so a few more weeks on those.
> 
> New Ev2 fittings are also almost done packaging so "very soon".
> 
> Probably forgot one or two things but thou art updated.
> 
> 
> 
> Are PPCS the only place who gets the MMRS parts, and the white parts?
Click to expand...

Yes, but I dont think the white caps have hit the eshelves yet.


----------



## BoxGods

Man I argued and argued for the screw mounting...and resellers insist over and over that it kills sales. If you look at our original stand alone CCFL bulbs they were screw mounted because I REALLY dislike the hook and loop crap and we ended up adding the 18mm round pads.

The original design for the inverters used the load spreader bar and raised the inverter 4mm off the mounting surface--I really like this because you can tuck wires in under the inverter and use it as a sort of wire hold down...and they just beat on me till I went with the lower profile design and pads. Their biggest argument is that the inverters are more often mounted in places you can't use screws--on a face of the PSU, on side panels, etc. etc.

So I got the really aggressive 3M adhesive type of pads so at least they stay stuck. And went with fairly big pads also.

We are running these in black anodized also and not in our Monsoon colors--at least to start.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Are PPCS the only place who gets the MMRS parts, and the white parts?


I have sent out price lists to all the resellers...nobody else has ordered yet (except Titan Rig here in the US). Honestly...I have no idea why as Performance is just flat out crushing it and is out of stock almost as soon as a shipment arrives. I think maybe other shops just don't get the modular concept and maybe are a bit freaked out by it...no idea.

Just for the record...Aquatuning, OCUK, Case King, etc. etc. can order any time they want--their not stocking MMRS has nothing to do with Monsoon--you guys know that when we make a mistake or cause a delay I own it and take my lumps but this one is not on me (for a nice change =)


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man I argued and argued for the screw mounting...and resellers insist over and over that it kills sales. If you look at our original stand alone CCFL bulbs they were screw mounted because I REALLY dislike the hook and loop crap and we ended up adding the 18mm round pads.
> 
> The original design for the inverters used the load spreader bar and raised the inverter 4mm off the mounting surface--I really like this because you can tuck wires in under the inverter and use it as a sort of wire hold down...and they just beat on me till I went with the lower profile design and pads. Their biggest argument is that the inverters are more often mounted in places you can't use screws--on a face of the PSU, on side panels, etc. etc.
> 
> So I got the really aggressive 3M adhesive type of pads so at least they stay stuck. And went with fairly big pads also.
> 
> We are running these in black anodized also and not in our Monsoon colors--at least to start.


Can't PPCS make the velcro an option only available in the "Newbie Kit Accessory Pack"?

Disclaimer: Any similiarity to hurt feelings from reading this reply is purely coincidental.


----------



## BoxGods

The problem with that approach is that the inverters are in a case that is as compact as possible...so to add area for screws to thread into increases the size...

I kind of have to pick my battles. I looked at the typical "crappy blue plastic" inverters and made a list of improvements I would personally like.

Aluminum instead of plastic. SATA plug instead of some little weird power wire and adapter. Switch harness (and all that wire mess) optional. Screw mounts. Matching colors. Etc. etc.. I got MOST of that.

The inverters will have a SATA direct plug for power. There is a jumper on the end that defaults to system power = inverter power, but you can unplug the jumper and plug an optional switch cable in and use a switch mounted elsewhere in the case to toggle the light on and off. Again, the switch cable is optional so those who do not want to mess with all that clutter (most users) don't have to. And don't get stuck paying for it.

I had to give in on the screw mounting. And for the first run at least Monsoon colors.


----------



## Mystriss

~looks dubious~ Hopefully, the manufacturers are right and a lot of folks will be happy with... sticky things...

I'm personally not keen on sticking anything to my case after my experiences, so mayhaps I will craft myself a metal bracket to hold the inverter, a simple sheet-metal U bracket or two across the top should hold splendidly... mmm perhaps a thin "frame" bracket of sorts only around the face of the inverter and screw "legs" in the four corners... I will have to tinker I suppose. Ya know, if one were to paint such U brackets to match Monsoon parts, I imagine it would be quite nice as well, but I think I shall leave mine brushed aluminum to match my case.









I like the sata plug use, with a right/left angle adapter I imagine I'll be able to cut down on the "end" profile a lot (vs a traditional 4-pin "molex" connection) making hiding the wires very simple.









----

In other news, I stumbled upon six packs of the discontinued economy fittings in matte black while hunting around for bits-n-parts. I promptly decided this was fate and bought the last two packages heh I had also picked up my replacement hardline conversion collars, so now all I need are the pump extensions, and the hardline adhesive (which I won't order until I am 100% ready to water-cool) I just need to determine how I wish to mount my MMRS as I'll need a dampening pad so my aluminum panel doesn't "sing" along with me heh ~rubs hands together excitedly~ It's all coming together now.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man I argued and argued for the screw mounting...and resellers insist over and over that it kills sales. If you look at our original stand alone CCFL bulbs they were screw mounted because I REALLY dislike the hook and loop crap and we ended up adding the 18mm round pads.
> 
> The original design for the inverters used the load spreader bar and raised the inverter 4mm off the mounting surface--I really like this because you can tuck wires in under the inverter and use it as a sort of wire hold down...and they just beat on me till I went with the lower profile design and pads. Their biggest argument is that the inverters are more often mounted in places you can't use screws--on a face of the PSU, on side panels, etc. etc.
> 
> So I got the really aggressive 3M adhesive type of pads so at least they stay stuck. And went with fairly big pads also.
> 
> We are running these in black anodized also and not in our Monsoon colors--at least to start.


I was going to suggest exactly what Mystriss did. Make an external case. Optional purchase.

I would pay! I hate tape. Ironically for the exact same reason as Mystriss.

Sticky residue


----------



## Ceadderman

Same here Geno. Apparently some vendors are stuck in the 90s.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

...too late now as they are done =(


----------



## VSG

I can see where the manufacturers are coming from. The average consumer is much more likely to use hook and loop type fasteners rather than drill anything, and guys here are almost always the vocal minority


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> ...too late now as they are done =(


you can still make an optional accessory !

some form of clip! we have faith in you !!!!!!

just make it interface with your current body- no mods needed


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I can see where the manufacturers are coming from. The average consumer is much more likely to use hook and loop type fasteners rather than drill anything, and guys here are almost always the vocal minority


is this really true ? I mean I've drilled lots of holes in my pc to screw down varius devices like my pumps, res, fan splitters ect... nor to mention some rivets in the case to disassamble it for some paintjob. So my thought would be the opposite to that statement that most pc.modders actually don't mind having to drill holes to mount stuff in them...

but I could be wrong ofcause...

to boxgods it would be a nice compromise if you were to design some sort of mounting device to the inverter to be sold seperately now that it's too late to change the inverter itself... perhaps even in all the beatyfull monsoon corlours


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> is this really true ? I mean I've drilled lots of holes in my pc to screw down varius devices like my pumps, res, fan splitters ect... nor to mention some rivets in the case to disassamble it for some paintjob. So my thought would be the opposite to that statement that most pc.modders actually don't mind having to drill holes to mount stuff in them...
> 
> but I could be wrong ofcause...
> 
> to boxgods it would be a nice compromise if you were to design some sort of mounting device to the inverter to be sold seperately now that it's too late to change the inverter itself... perhaps even in all the beatyfull monsoon corlours


yes it is true the average consumer is much more likely to use hook and loop type fasteners. We are not the average most likely the top 10% if not smaller!


----------



## TobagoCay

BoxGods - what is the warranty on the Monsoon heat gun? Mine just crapped out and I can't find anything about warranty at PPCS. I bought mine back in Jan but only started using the last couple of weeks. I was really hoping to get the tubing done this weekend and start leak testing, but I'm dead in the water now. May have to go to Home Depot and pick up an alternative.

FYI, I was testing what you told me about a week ago about stretch marks in my tubing. Your advice about the miter box was very helpful, and I'm getting really good, clean cuts now, so thanks! However, I have to disagree on the marks I was seeing being stretch marks. I tried heating a straight section of (PETG) tube and just pressed it into the straight edge of the 180 degree mandrel and I got the same pattern. So I tried another section but I used the glove from the heat gun kit on my left hand and a smooth (so I thought) linen napkin in my right hand. Each material left their own pattern in the tube (the "smooth" linen was worse than the glove). The next material I tried was the time the heat gun blew up on me so I'm not sure if the tube was hot enough, but I was trying parchment paper (which is very smooth, non-stick and heat resistant) and it seemed to work but I really don't think the tube was hot enough.

I know I'm probably still doing something wrong, but if I get the PETG tubing hot enough to bend, the gloves leave a mark. I assume you have used your tools (heat gun and gloves) on PETG tubing, so how long did you heat the tubing and on which setting? For me on high setting at about 50 seconds the tube is like a wet noodle, really soft, and I am very careful to turn the tube and heat it evenly, so I can get the bend I want but there's this ugly pattern from the glove. I changed to using the lower setting and taking longer, but by 90 seconds again the tube is a wet noodle and I get the same pattern from the gloves. Any suggestions?


----------



## Malum

@TobagoCay
I think you might use too much force when holding the tube in the mandrel. I noticed these patterns myself when I first tried the petg(had none with acrylic) so I tried to heat up a narrow piece of the tube, so that I could hold the tube in the mandrel, but only against the last ½ inch(1 finger at each end none at the bend itself) of the mandrel, where I hadn't heated the tube so much that it was able to bend. And that removed those "finger marks" on the tube.

My general experience with petg over acryllic was that petg is more forgiving as in don't need as wide an area heated up to avoid kinks on the inside of the bend as acryllic do. Acryllic is more resistens when it comes to those "fingermarks" but require a more widen area of the tube softened to make nice looking bends.

I know my english isn't perfect but hope you understand what I mean...

Anyway good luck with you build and remember, much the fun part of doing these mods is the journey, not just the finished product


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> @TobagoCay
> I think you might use too much force when holding the tube in the mandrel. I noticed these patterns myself when I first tried the petg(had none with acrylic) so I tried to heat up a narrow piece of the tube, so that I could hold the tube in the mandrel, but only against the last ½ inch(1 finger at each end none at the bend itself) of the mandrel, where I hadn't heated the tube so much that it was able to bend. And that removed those "finger marks" on the tube.
> 
> My general experience with petg over acryllic was that petg is more forgiving as in don't need as wide an area heated up to avoid kinks on the inside of the bend as acryllic do. Acryllic is more resistens when it comes to those "fingermarks" but require a more widen area of the tube softened to make nice looking bends.
> 
> I know my english isn't perfect but hope you understand what I mean...
> 
> Anyway good luck with you build and remember, much the fun part of doing these mods is the journey, not just the finished product


Hello Malum - I think your English is great and I understand what you are saying - thanks for the advice! (If you don't mind me asking, what is your native tongue?) I am actually really enjoying this journey. I've been building computers for 30+ years but this is my first attempt at any serious modding and water cooling and I've learned a lot so far (and a lot of that from BoxGods videos). I actually went out and bought a new heat gun today so I could work on this over the weekend. I'll try your advice tomorrow and see if I can get some better results. I know plenty of people have used PETG tubing, so obviously I just need to learn the right technique. Cheers!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes it is true the average consumer is much more likely to use hook and loop type fasteners. We are not the average most likely the top 10% if not smaller!


Let's not be too hard on the "non mechanical" 90% that doesn't feel comfortable drilling and hacking on their cases--their buying power brings prices down to reasonable levels for all the rest of us.=)

I think the thing with inverters is that most of the time they end up in the dark nooks and crannies of our cases hidden away. Maybe half the time that is on top of a PSU and even I would not recommend most people crack those open for screw mounting an inverter. You also might end up mounting them to an exterior surface of the case and would likely not want screws hanging out in the open on the outside of the case....

Shown below is the original direction I was going. The spreader bar (says MMRS on it) would have been on the other side of the panel the inverter was mounted to. There was a section on the inverter case roughly the same size and shape as the load spreader bar that elevated it about 5mm off of the mounting surface. My thinking was that the inverter could double as a cable hold down if people wanted to route cables under it.

I also tried a design with the typical tabs on either side--like a car amp etc. but those just got too wide for stealth mounting in really small places. Aka no screws.

Ended up going with a design similar to the one below but no load spreader or pushed out area on the bottom and "sticking" with the hook and loop pads.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> BoxGods - what is the warranty on the Monsoon heat gun? Mine just crapped out and I can't find anything about warranty at PPCS. I bought mine back in Jan but only started using the last couple of weeks. I was really hoping to get the tubing done this weekend and start leak testing, but I'm dead in the water now. May have to go to Home Depot and pick up an alternative.
> 
> FYI, I was testing what you told me about a week ago about stretch marks in my tubing. Your advice about the miter box was very helpful, and I'm getting really good, clean cuts now, so thanks! However, I have to disagree on the marks I was seeing being stretch marks. I tried heating a straight section of (PETG) tube and just pressed it into the straight edge of the 180 degree mandrel and I got the same pattern. So I tried another section but I used the glove from the heat gun kit on my left hand and a smooth (so I thought) linen napkin in my right hand. Each material left their own pattern in the tube (the "smooth" linen was worse than the glove). The next material I tried was the time the heat gun blew up on me so I'm not sure if the tube was hot enough, but I was trying parchment paper (which is very smooth, non-stick and heat resistant) and it seemed to work but I really don't think the tube was hot enough.
> 
> I know I'm probably still doing something wrong, but if I get the PETG tubing hot enough to bend, the gloves leave a mark. I assume you have used your tools (heat gun and gloves) on PETG tubing, so how long did you heat the tubing and on which setting? For me on high setting at about 50 seconds the tube is like a wet noodle, really soft, and I am very careful to turn the tube and heat it evenly, so I can get the bend I want but there's this ugly pattern from the glove. I changed to using the lower setting and taking longer, but by 90 seconds again the tube is a wet noodle and I get the same pattern from the gloves. Any suggestions?


One year so you should be covered no problem.

On the PETG tube imprinting. I admit most of my experience over the years has been on Acrylic tube so I am more familiar with it but I did do a dozen or so test bends with the PETG. I didn't notice any imprinting but I also have done enough of this that I don't really need to touch the tube much. I did notice that the PETG takes a lot less heat and as Malum mentioned you don't have to heat as long a section in the bend area.

So try heating a shorter length in the bend area, not heating it quite as much, and maybe less inappropriate touching


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Let's not be too hard on the "non mechanical" 90% that doesn't feel comfortable drilling and hacking on their cases--their buying power brings prices down to reasonable levels for all the rest of us.=)
> 
> I think the thing with inverters is that most of the time they end up in the dark nooks and crannies of our cases hidden away. Maybe half the time that is on top of a PSU and even I would not recommend most people crack those open for screw mounting an inverter. You also might end up mounting them to an exterior surface of the case and would likely not want screws hanging out in the open on the outside of the case....
> 
> Shown below is the original direction I was going. The spreader bar (says MMRS on it) would have been on the other side of the panel the inverter was mounted to. There was a section on the inverter case roughly the same size and shape as the load spreader bar that elevated it about 5mm off of the mounting surface. My thinking was that the inverter could double as a cable hold down if people wanted to route cables under it.
> 
> I also tried a design with the typical tabs on either side--like a car amp etc. but those just got too wide for stealth mounting in really small places. Aka no screws.
> 
> Ended up going with a design similar to the one below but no load spreader or pushed out area on the bottom and "sticking" with the hook and loop pads.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks Awesome Geno. I was not being hard on anyone but we do seem to forget that we are a small market for these items, small but vital as we are the guinea pigs for anything new and are always looking to push the envelope.


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Let's not be too hard on the "non mechanical" 90% that doesn't feel comfortable drilling and hacking on their cases--their buying power brings prices down to reasonable levels for all the rest of us.=)
> 
> I think the thing with inverters is that most of the time they end up in the dark nooks and crannies of our cases hidden away. Maybe half the time that is on top of a PSU and even I would not recommend most people crack those open for screw mounting an inverter. You also might end up mounting them to an exterior surface of the case and would likely not want screws hanging out in the open on the outside of the case....
> 
> Shown below is the original direction I was going. The spreader bar (says MMRS on it) would have been on the other side of the panel the inverter was mounted to. There was a section on the inverter case roughly the same size and shape as the load spreader bar that elevated it about 5mm off of the mounting surface. My thinking was that the inverter could double as a cable hold down if people wanted to route cables under it.
> 
> I also tried a design with the typical tabs on either side--like a car amp etc. but those just got too wide for stealth mounting in really small places. Aka no screws.
> 
> Ended up going with a design similar to the one below but no load spreader or pushed out area on the bottom and "sticking" with the hook and loop pads.


I like the looks of those, cool stuff.

-Jason


----------



## Bandalo

Just finished my build with some of these new Monsoon parts...My pictures don't do them justice.


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Just finished my build with some of these new Monsoon parts...My pictures don't do them justice.


Very nice rig, what case do you have?

Regards,

-Jason


----------



## Bandalo

Thanks! It's a Case Labs Merlin SM8. Finally replaced the Mountain Mods case I'd been using for >8 years now.


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Thanks! It's a Case Labs Merlin SM8. Finally replaced the Mountain Mods case I'd been using for >8 years now.


Thanks, just looked them. Bookmarked!

Regards,

-Jason


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> yes it is true the average consumer is much more likely to use hook and loop type fasteners. We are not the average most likely the top 10% if not smaller!
> 
> 
> 
> Let's not be too hard on the "non mechanical" 90% that doesn't feel comfortable drilling and hacking on their cases--their buying power brings prices down to reasonable levels for all the rest of us.=)
> 
> I think the thing with inverters is that most of the time they end up in the dark nooks and crannies of our cases hidden away. Maybe half the time that is on top of a PSU and even I would not recommend most people crack those open for screw mounting an inverter. You also might end up mounting them to an exterior surface of the case and would likely not want screws hanging out in the open on the outside of the case....
> 
> Shown below is the original direction I was going. The spreader bar (says MMRS on it) would have been on the other side of the panel the inverter was mounted to. There was a section on the inverter case roughly the same size and shape as the load spreader bar that elevated it about 5mm off of the mounting surface. My thinking was that the inverter could double as a cable hold down if people wanted to route cables under it.
> 
> I also tried a design with the typical tabs on either side--like a car amp etc. but those just got too wide for stealth mounting in really small places. Aka no screws.
> 
> Ended up going with a design similar to the one below but no load spreader or pushed out area on the bottom and "sticking" with the hook and loop pads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

At first n this 14.7" lappy screen I thought that you decided to watercool the inverter.









Still, would like to see the option of the spreader mount in future versions. Wouldn't take that much and as smexy as I think that they would be in Black Chrome or Red, I would likely mount mine for the world to see.









~Ceadder


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Let's not be too hard on the "non mechanical" 90% that doesn't feel comfortable drilling and hacking on their cases--their buying power brings prices down to reasonable levels for all the rest of us.=)
> 
> I think the thing with inverters is that most of the time they end up in the dark nooks and crannies of our cases hidden away. Maybe half the time that is on top of a PSU and even I would not recommend most people crack those open for screw mounting an inverter. You also might end up mounting them to an exterior surface of the case and would likely not want screws hanging out in the open on the outside of the case....
> 
> Shown below is the original direction I was going. The spreader bar (says MMRS on it) would have been on the other side of the panel the inverter was mounted to. There was a section on the inverter case roughly the same size and shape as the load spreader bar that elevated it about 5mm off of the mounting surface. My thinking was that the inverter could double as a cable hold down if people wanted to route cables under it.
> 
> I also tried a design with the typical tabs on either side--like a car amp etc. but those just got too wide for stealth mounting in really small places. Aka no screws.
> 
> Ended up going with a design similar to the one below but no load spreader or pushed out area on the bottom and "sticking" with the hook and loop pads.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Since the inverters in the pictures are blue, can I assume they will come in all monsoons colors ?
Btw. they do look awesome in blue









and to @TobagoCay :
I'm from Denmark, so my native language is Danish


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Just finished my build with some of these new Monsoon parts...My pictures don't do them justice.


Well we are just going to have to agree to disagree as your pictures (and your work) absolutely DO do our parts justice.

You crushed it dude...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Since the inverters in the pictures are blue, can I assume they will come in all monsoons colors ?
> Btw. they do look awesome in blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and to @TobagoCay :
> I'm from Denmark, so my native language is Danish


Not at launch. Just basic black anno for now.


----------



## Bandalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Well we are just going to have to agree to disagree as your pictures (and your work) absolutely DO do our parts justice.
> 
> You crushed it dude...


Thanks, that means a lot coming from the guy that made this stuff! The pump/res was a piece of cake to assemble and work with. The mounts are very solid, and all the fittings worked excellently. Given some of the tight spaces, that tool for the compression fittings was essential Keep up the good work!


----------



## ToxM82

I just got my Res in from PPCS and I am about to build it. I noticed I don't seem to have what I need to mount the UV lights I got, can someone please tell me what they are called so I can order them.

Thank you,

EDIT: NEVER MIND I SEE, they go in between the stands I got







VERY NICE!


----------



## Deedaz

Had to get some new pics with the new camera.


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Had to get some new pics with the new camera.


Nice build sir








Although I would personally have used hardline tubing instead of the soft tubing. It just look better imho


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Had to get some new pics with the new camera.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice build sir
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although I would personally have used hardline tubing instead of the soft tubing. It just look better imho
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll be rebuilding it into a caselabs s8 soon and I'll go with hardlines then.


----------



## BoxGods

I dunno about hard lines....they obviously do look cooler but it is not like that is an ugly build by ANY stretch =)

Looks pretty amazing to me--especially as I love green and white together.


----------



## BoxGods

Little update with good news for you guys in England and Europe.

It looks like OCUK is going to be the first reseller there to carry MMRS. Probably be a month till they have stock. Maybe sooner if a few of you email a little "encouragement" as I am still not sure they really get the whole modular concept =)

Tho art updated.


----------



## VSG

Nice.. I was worried that with Rich gone they might have different priorities for watercooling parts but glad it wasn't the case.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Nice.. I was worried that with Rich gone they might have different priorities for watercooling parts but glad it wasn't the case.


I am not yet entirely convinced that that is the case. Rob (aka The new Guy) is still learning the ropes but he is slowly making progress. Add to that MMRS entry being a fairly big investment as far as product lines go and I guess I can see why EU resellers are being cautious. I get a lot of people from EU emailing asking if they can buy direct from us and I feel bad when I have to say no. I have done everything I can think of. Not sure what else to do.

I sent Hank from Performance about 10 pictures of individual parts and 4 of different configurations assembled. He asked a few questions--one of which was first run quantity, and the next day he sent a PO for the entire run. I called him up just to make 100% *sure* he understood everything. He felt like they were going to sell really well and was being strategic by scooping up the whole run--and I mean every part number in every size and every color. We increased the second run by about 40% and he ordered all of it *again* and he kept doing that which is why it was almost 4 months before we were caught up enough to even send out a price list out to other resellers.

I run new product ideas by Hank first and if he says "Nah I don't think that will sell very well" it usually goes right into the no pile =)


----------



## VSG

Yeah, Hank's generally my go-to guy for such wisdom too. Rich was my contact for the UK/Europe market in general.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Yeah, Hank's generally my go-to guy for such wisdom too. Rich was my contact for the UK/Europe market in general.


Yeah I was sad to see Rich move to a new job too =(


----------



## MrMD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Little update with good news for you guys in England and Europe.
> 
> It looks like OCUK is going to be the first reseller there to carry MMRS. Probably be a month till they have stock. Maybe sooner if a few of you email a little "encouragement" as I am still not sure they really get the whole modular concept =)
> 
> Tho art updated.


Dont worry i have been regularly annoying them about when/if they will be stocking the MMRS on the OcUK forums









Glad to see its soon


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Little update with good news for you guys in England and Europe.
> 
> It looks like OCUK is going to be the first reseller there to carry MMRS. Probably be a month till they have stock. Maybe sooner if a few of you email a little "encouragement" as I am still not sure they really get the whole modular concept =)
> 
> Tho art updated.


That's good news I have had a lot of people sending me PM's about the ones I used in my build


----------



## coookiemunster

Just wanted to leave this here.... the Monsoon hardline measuring and bending kits are AWESOME! This was my first experience with bending hardline. I started bending the tubing and have completed both reservoirs and the CPU tubes. I started the tubes for the video card but wasn't happy with the results so i will take another crack at it tomorrow.
The pictures below show the layout but the tubes are just sitting there Collars are not glued on yet) so they look a little sloppy.


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Cookie - I like your set-up, how big is that case? Is it me or is really long, just curious!

-Jason


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crosshatch3D*
> 
> Cookie - I like your set-up, how big is that case? Is it me or is really long, just curious!
> 
> -Jason


Thanks Jason!
It's a custom scratch built case built from 80/20 extruded aluminum frame and 1/8 aluminium panels. it is 37 inches tall, 23 inches wide and 23 inches deep.

Here is the build log:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1565418/build-log-skynet

Here are some images before paint


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Thanks Jason!
> It's a custom scratch built case built from 80/20 extruded aluminum frame and 1/8 aluminium panels. it is 37 inches tall, 23 inches wide and 23 inches deep.
> 
> Here is the build log:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1565418/build-log-skynet
> 
> Here are some images before paint


Dope! Love Aluminum, obviously.

Like the look for sure.

-Jason


----------



## BoxGods

That isn't a case...that is a small CAMPER =)

And I love it


----------



## ToxM82

So I was just testing out the UV tube lighting I got with my Monsoon res, and they are not powering up, I have them connected to a bitspower X-station. did these need inverters?

EDIT:

Damn I just read it in the text at the very bottom on PPCS... ok so I will need a dual inverter since I am trying to power two 100mm UV rods for my res. Any solid suggestions?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> So I was just testing out the UV tube lighting I got with my Monsoon res, and they are not powering up, I have them connected to a bitspower X-station. did these need inverters?
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Damn I just read it in the text at the very bottom on PPCS... ok so I will need a dual inverter since I am trying to power two 100mm UV rods for my res. Any solid suggestions?


Just wait for the Monsoon Inverters on PPCs.









For testing purposes though, if you have one of the fugly blue inverters it will do.









~Ceadder


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just wait for the Monsoon Inverters on PPCs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For testing purposes though, if you have one of the fugly blue inverters it will do.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What is the ETA on those? Glad you said something! I actually do have one of those! haha


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> What is the ETA on those? Glad you said something! I actually do have one of those! haha


Boxgod said they were finished so just need the retailers to order them and put them up for sale...


----------



## coookiemunster

Monsoon Hardline fittings are AWESOME!!! The collars were a piece if cake to glue on and they look FANTASTIC!! the MMRS reservoirs look 100 x better then anything else on the market! I cant tell you how happy I am with Monsoons products.

I did have one small user error glitch which you can read about on my build log if you want http://www.overclock.net/t/1565418/build-log-skynet


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Monsoon Hardline fittings are AWESOME!!! The collars were a piece if cake to glue on and they look FANTASTIC!! the MMRS reservoirs look 100 x better then anything else on the market! I cant tell you how happy I am with Monsoons products.
> 
> I did have one small user error glitch which you can read about on my build log if you want http://www.overclock.net/t/1565418/build-log-skynet


Wait a sec here, have the white end caps reached the market yet?????


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Wait a sec here, have the white end caps reached the market yet?????


Not sure, I painted mine.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That isn't a case...that is a small CAMPER =)
> 
> And I love it


... what's my tx10? A house?


----------



## Master Chicken

Just to be clear, for Monsoon compression fittings ... the ones labeled Hardline Compression are the ones with the flange/collar that you glue to the hard tubing whereas the Compression are the more traditional circumferential compression fittings. Is that correct? They don't seem to be distinguished on the Monsoon web site but the two categories seem to exist on the retailer sites minus the explanation of the difference.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Just to be clear, for Monsoon compression fittings ... the ones labeled Hardline Compression are the ones with the flange/collar that you glue to the hard tubing whereas the Compression are the more traditional circumferential compression fittings. Is that correct? They don't seem to be distinguished on the Monsoon web site but the two categories seem to exist on the retailer sites minus the explanation of the difference.


Yes that is correct


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Monsoon Hardline fittings are AWESOME!!! The collars were a piece if cake to glue on and they look FANTASTIC!! the MMRS reservoirs look 100 x better then anything else on the market! I cant tell you how happy I am with Monsoons products.
> 
> I did have one small user error glitch which you can read about on my build log if you want http://www.overclock.net/t/1565418/build-log-skynet


Man I just love *LOVE* that pale blue color in the tubes. It looks very "iceberg" or Superman's "Fortress of Solitude". I don't think it would be as awesome with any other color as it is with the pure white either.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Wait a sec here, have the white end caps reached the market yet?????


They are done, packaged, and ready to ship so PPCS should have them with their shipment...so "any time now".


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Just to be clear, for Monsoon compression fittings ... the ones labeled Hardline Compression are the ones with the flange/collar that you glue to the hard tubing whereas the Compression are the more traditional circumferential compression fittings. Is that correct? They don't seem to be distinguished on the Monsoon web site but the two categories seem to exist on the retailer sites minus the explanation of the difference.


The Premium Hardline Fittings are compressions. The old style economy fittings had a compression ring also but IMO were not a true compression fitting. That design has been discontinued and we are about to ship the new design, Economy Version Two or EV2 for short. They are a true compression fitting and do not use the lock collars. They have a lot less tube "wobble" and hold the tube much tighter than typical push in type fittings. Not as strong as our Hardline fittings...but again no lock collar required either.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Just to be clear, for Monsoon compression fittings ... the ones labeled Hardline Compression are the ones with the flange/collar that you glue to the hard tubing whereas the Compression are the more traditional circumferential compression fittings. Is that correct? They don't seem to be distinguished on the Monsoon web site but the two categories seem to exist on the retailer sites minus the explanation of the difference.
> 
> 
> 
> The Premium Hardline Fittings are compressions. The old style economy fittings had a compression ring also but IMO were not a true compression fitting. That design has been discontinued and we are about to ship the new design, Economy Version Two or EV2 for short. They are a true compression fitting and do not use the lock collars. They have a lot less tube "wobble" and hold the tube much tighter than typical push in type fittings. Not as strong as our Hardline fittings...but again no lock collar required either.
Click to expand...

Could you or would you throw up a teaser pic of those EV2's?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Just to be clear, for Monsoon compression fittings ... the ones labeled Hardline Compression are the ones with the flange/collar that you glue to the hard tubing whereas the Compression are the more traditional circumferential compression fittings. Is that correct? They don't seem to be distinguished on the Monsoon web site but the two categories seem to exist on the retailer sites minus the explanation of the difference.
> 
> 
> 
> The Premium Hardline Fittings are compressions. The old style economy fittings had a compression ring also but IMO were not a true compression fitting. That design has been discontinued and we are about to ship the new design, Economy Version Two or EV2 for short. They are a true compression fitting and do not use the lock collars. They have a lot less tube "wobble" and hold the tube much tighter than typical push in type fittings. Not as strong as our Hardline fittings...but again no lock collar required either.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Could you or would you throw up a teaser pic of those EV2's?
Click to expand...

Please???









I may just sell these Economies and pick those up instead. Although I don't find any wobbliness in the economies. But tbh I've only done one tube and it's a short MB run so maybe with length there is some wobbliness.










~Ceadder


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man I just love *LOVE* that pale blue color in the tubes. It looks very "iceberg" or Superman's "Fortress of Solitude". I don't think it would be as awesome with any other color as it is with the pure white either.


I just added 3 drops of Mayhems blue dye to each loop to be better able to detect any leaks but i was really surprised how good the pale blue looks! I purchased some Mayhems X1 UV blue concentrate thinking I wanted a bright blue to complement the white but now I am not so sure.

PS. 24 hours leak test complete with no issues (**knocking furiously on every wood surface within reach!!**)
How long should i leave the leak test run for before powering up the PC?


----------



## Mega Man

Personal preference.

Do you feel safe running it now?

If so. Do it


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man I just love *LOVE* that pale blue color in the tubes. It looks very "iceberg" or Superman's "Fortress of Solitude". I don't think it would be as awesome with any other color as it is with the pure white either.
> 
> 
> 
> I just added 3 drops of Mayhems blue dye to each loop to be better able to detect any leaks but i was really surprised how good the pale blue looks! I purchased some Mayhems X1 UV blue concentrate thinking I wanted a bright blue to complement the white but now I am not so sure.
> 
> PS. 24 hours leak test complete with no issues (**knocking furiously on every wood surface within reach!!**)
> How long should i leave the leak test run for before powering up the PC?
Click to expand...

24 hours imo is plenty, if not overkill. If something is immediately faulty or a user error it will show up within several hours in my experience. If something fails past this then its something else you wouldn't have discovered until much later anyways.


----------



## Ceadderman

I honestly did not perform a leak test. At least one that people would consider a leak test at any rate. iirc, I think I ran about 15 to 20 minutes. If there is a leak it's gonna pop up rather quickly. 24hours though? If I am not around a loop that I am not certain about, I won't let it go while I sleep.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

I used to never do a leak test either as I am very meticulous. Then one night after like a 20 hour straight building marathon to get a rig ready for a show...how many of you remember those TT Polar Flo blocks? They had a sexy billet aluminum top that looked like valve covers. Anyway they also had a screw on block top that sealed with a big 50mm diameter O ring. I remembered to take the block apart to clean all the machining "bits" out--they were notorious for being messy inside--and I screwed it all back together.

So dead tired and all done and adding in the water. She swallowed the first liter no problem. Second liter no problem. Third liter...wait...***? THREE liters? And what is that splashing sound?

I look over on my bench and there is that 50mm O ring from the block...sitting there laughing at me. I had forgotten to put the O ring in when I assembled the block. Looked inside and water was POURING out.

Needless to say I leak test everything now.

Here is a pic of the blocks and a Budweiser reservoir Mod I did in 2005 I think.


----------



## fast_fate

Great Story and Pic









Is the OP still active ?? @solidshark91493

If we start uploading SketchUp generated parts pics - any chance of making a list in the OP.
Unless someone else wants to be the guardian and keep track of them and organized.

Here is my practice one








*
MMRS-EC-3P*


----------



## side37

I want to confirm the end to end length of one of these reservoirs, it says the tube length is the installed length so I assume that means the tube is actually a bit longer but part of it is inside the end caps. So if you chose a 150mm tube length would the total length be 150 + 29 + 29 = 208mm?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Great Story and Pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the OP still active ?? @solidshark91493
> 
> If we start uploading SketchUp generated parts pics - any chance of making a list in the OP.
> Unless someone else wants to be the guardian and keep track of them and organized.
> 
> Here is my practice one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> MMRS-EC-3P*


No idea on the OP. Did you create that SU model or is it one of mine? I ask because if it isn't one of mine...maybe start focusing on the few missing parts first =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> I want to confirm the end to end length of one of these reservoirs, it says the tube length is the installed length so I assume that means the tube is actually a bit longer but part of it is inside the end caps. So if you chose a 150mm tube length would the total length be 150 + 29 + 29 = 208mm?


Correct. You could consider the listed length as "nominal". A reservoir tube listed as 100mm is actually about 105mm long but as you said, part of the tube recesses into the end caps so the actual distance the tube adds to the total installed length is 100mm.

There will be a very slight deviation in total built out length because everyone tightens the end caps slightly more or less. In a single tube segment reservoir it is very minor--maybe plus or minus 0.2mm. If you are using more tube segments and couplers that can start to add up. For example three tube segments with two couplers could grow to plus or minus 0.5 to 0.75mm because there are more O rings.

For our purposes the variance is insignificant.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> No idea on the OP. Did you create that SU model or is it one of mine? I ask because if it isn't one of mine...maybe start focusing on the few missing parts first =)


It is one of yours - just flipped and tossed around a couple of times








Gives different perspectives for those without SU.
Also added a few measurements which some might find useful


----------



## BoxGods

Dang...I was hoping you were some mad skillz SU guy as I have a hard time transitioning between SU and SW and I have been dragging my feet about getting those last few models done


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Dang...I was hoping you were some mad skillz SU guy as I have a hard time transitioning between SU and SW and I have been dragging my feet about getting those last few models done


Not such luck with the SU guruism









Better at Photos









*MMRS-TR-150-BL* fitted to *MMRS-EC-1P
*


Tried to Match SketchUp to the Photo.
Almost - but not quite


----------



## BoxGods

I have tried that before...you go a little nuts after a while because it never looks exactly the same.

Don't even think about trying to get a render to match a picture


----------



## TobagoCay

Finally finished my first attempt at a custom loop - it's not show worthy, but it's a good start and at least it doesn't leak. I still have to finish the lighting to make sure the MMRS shines, especially with all the dark "carbon fiber" film I used to cover the inside of the case. I also plan on replacing the old ASUS ROG MARS video card (new Nvidia 1080 hopefully) and work it into the loop, so this is all just a first run. Hopefully it will look better in a few months.

I really had a hard time with the short, 3-axis run from the CPU block to the rad, and in general I still need a lot of practice on bending. This is all PETG but I've actually ordered acrylic and will try with that to see if I do any better or worse. For what its worth, I did try some Bits Power compression fittings on either side of the flow meter (which I know is not that accurate - it's just some eye candy) and one worked fine but one leaked and I could never stop the leak so I just went to the Monsoon hardlock fittings and that fixed the problem. The hardlock fittings were easy to work with except for one tube of the four I ordered which was obviously smaller in diameter. The lock collars would more or less stick on the other 3 tubes but just fall off the fourth tube and I could never get the air bubbles completely out. Those fittings are kind of ugly but you can't see them so I'm not too worried about it as long as they don't leak.

@BoxGods - I finally figured out why I could never get a straight cut with the miter box - the saw blade was installed incorrectly (probably my fault). The pin that holds the blade in place was locked into the wrong position (which is actually an easy mistake to make) and it was twisting the blade just a little causing it to cut off-plane. I figured it out after about 2 dozen cuts - if I had noticed that in the beginning it would have save lots of time and frustration, but lesson learned and now I get straight cuts. I'll be interested to see how all the tools work with acrylic versus PETG. Thanks for the help and advice!


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Finally finished my first attempt at a custom loop - it's not show worthy, but it's a good start and at least it doesn't leak. I still have to finish the lighting to make sure the MMRS shines, especially with all the dark "carbon fiber" film I used to cover the inside of the case. I also plan on replacing the old ASUS ROG MARS video card (new Nvidia 1080 hopefully) and work it into the loop, so this is all just a first run. Hopefully it will look better in a few months.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I really had a hard time with the short, 3-axis run from the CPU block to the rad, and in general I still need a lot of practice on bending. This is all PETG but I've actually ordered acrylic and will try with that to see if I do any better or worse. For what its worth, I did try some Bits Power compression fittings on either side of the flow meter (which I know is not that accurate - it's just some eye candy) and one worked fine but one leaked and I could never stop the leak so I just went to the Monsoon hardlock fittings and that fixed the problem. The hardlock fittings were easy to work with except for one tube of the four I ordered which was obviously smaller in diameter. The lock collars would more or less stick on the other 3 tubes but just fall off the fourth tube and I could never get the air bubbles completely out. Those fittings are kind of ugly but you can't see them so I'm not too worried about it as long as they don't leak.
> 
> @BoxGods - I finally figured out why I could never get a straight cut with the miter box - the saw blade was installed incorrectly (probably my fault). The pin that holds the blade in place was locked into the wrong position (which is actually an easy mistake to make) and it was twisting the blade just a little causing it to cut off-plane. I figured it out after about 2 dozen cuts - if I had noticed that in the beginning it would have save lots of time and frustration, but lesson learned and now I get straight cuts. I'll be interested to see how all the tools work with acrylic versus PETG. Thanks for the help and advice!


looks awesome and show worth to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally finished my first attempt at a custom loop - it's not show worthy, but it's a good start and at least it doesn't leak. I still have to finish the lighting to make sure the MMRS shines, especially with all the dark "carbon fiber" film I used to cover the inside of the case. I also plan on replacing the old ASUS ROG MARS video card (new Nvidia 1080 hopefully) and work it into the loop, so this is all just a first run. Hopefully it will look better in a few months.
> 
> I really had a hard time with the short, 3-axis run from the CPU block to the rad, and in general I still need a lot of practice on bending. This is all PETG but I've actually ordered acrylic and will try with that to see if I do any better or worse. For what its worth, I did try some Bits Power compression fittings on either side of the flow meter (which I know is not that accurate - it's just some eye candy) and one worked fine but one leaked and I could never stop the leak so I just went to the Monsoon hardlock fittings and that fixed the problem. The hardlock fittings were easy to work with except for one tube of the four I ordered which was obviously smaller in diameter. The lock collars would more or less stick on the other 3 tubes but just fall off the fourth tube and I could never get the air bubbles completely out. Those fittings are kind of ugly but you can't see them so I'm not too worried about it as long as they don't leak.
> 
> @BoxGods - I finally figured out why I could never get a straight cut with the miter box - the saw blade was installed incorrectly (probably my fault). The pin that holds the blade in place was locked into the wrong position (which is actually an easy mistake to make) and it was twisting the blade just a little causing it to cut off-plane. I figured it out after about 2 dozen cuts - if I had noticed that in the beginning it would have save lots of time and frustration, but lesson learned and now I get straight cuts. I'll be interested to see how all the tools work with acrylic versus PETG. Thanks for the help and advice!


Looks great to me. Love the carbon touches.

Also...fascinating about the blade being in the saw incorrectly. To be candid I was really scratching my head over how you could be having trouble as it is pretty easy to cut with the miter box. I will have to see if I can duplicate your blade loading situation just out of curiosity.


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> Monsoon Hardline fittings are AWESOME!!! The collars were a piece if cake to glue on and they look FANTASTIC!! the MMRS reservoirs look 100 x better then anything else on the market! I cant tell you how happy I am with Monsoons products.
> 
> I did have one small user error glitch which you can read about on my build log if you want http://www.overclock.net/t/1565418/build-log-skynet
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's gorgeous! Love the colors and the symmetry with all the parallel lines.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Finally finished my first attempt at a custom loop - it's not show worthy, but it's a good start and at least it doesn't leak. I still have to finish the lighting to make sure the MMRS shines, especially with all the dark "carbon fiber" film I used to cover the inside of the case. I also plan on replacing the old ASUS ROG MARS video card (new Nvidia 1080 hopefully) and work it into the loop, so this is all just a first run. Hopefully it will look better in a few months.
> 
> I really had a hard time with the short, 3-axis run from the CPU block to the rad, and in general I still need a lot of practice on bending. This is all PETG but I've actually ordered acrylic and will try with that to see if I do any better or worse. For what its worth, I did try some Bits Power compression fittings on either side of the flow meter (which I know is not that accurate - it's just some eye candy) and one worked fine but one leaked and I could never stop the leak so I just went to the Monsoon hardlock fittings and that fixed the problem. The hardlock fittings were easy to work with except for one tube of the four I ordered which was obviously smaller in diameter. The lock collars would more or less stick on the other 3 tubes but just fall off the fourth tube and I could never get the air bubbles completely out. Those fittings are kind of ugly but you can't see them so I'm not too worried about it as long as they don't leak.
> 
> @BoxGods - I finally figured out why I could never get a straight cut with the miter box - the saw blade was installed incorrectly (probably my fault). The pin that holds the blade in place was locked into the wrong position (which is actually an easy mistake to make) and it was twisting the blade just a little causing it to cut off-plane. I figured it out after about 2 dozen cuts - if I had noticed that in the beginning it would have save lots of time and frustration, but lesson learned and now I get straight cuts. I'll be interested to see how all the tools work with acrylic versus PETG. Thanks for the help and advice!


Nice Work and definitely an eye catching Pump/Res combo









Took dimensions Off and made separate pages.
With these "Templates" have now been able to "Switch" components, so each item is imported into the same place with same perspective - with only minor resizing need before altering the dimensions.
Tries several times to "slice" in half for a cross section - BUT failed









*EDIT:* @BoxGods I didn't measure yet...BUT based off the bottom view and dimensions, is the o-ring size with the End Caps for sealing Res Tubes 53mm x 3mm (ID x CS)












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> looks awesome and show worth to me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


Thanks! I can't wait to get the lighting worked out so you can really see what's in there.


----------



## TobagoCay

Thanks. When I get back home I'll send you a picture of how I had messed up with the blade. Maybe if someone else comes along with the same issue in the future it will help.

EDIT: @BoxGods - this was for you - meant to click quote and not reply


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> 
> 
> Finally finished my first attempt at a custom loop - it's not show worthy, but it's a good start and at least it doesn't leak. I still have to finish the lighting to make sure the MMRS shines, especially with all the dark "carbon fiber" film I used to cover the inside of the case. I also plan on replacing the old ASUS ROG MARS video card (new Nvidia 1080 hopefully) and work it into the loop, so this is all just a first run. Hopefully it will look better in a few months.
> 
> I really had a hard time with the short, 3-axis run from the CPU block to the rad, and in general I still need a lot of practice on bending. This is all PETG but I've actually ordered acrylic and will try with that to see if I do any better or worse. For what its worth, I did try some Bits Power compression fittings on either side of the flow meter (which I know is not that accurate - it's just some eye candy) and one worked fine but one leaked and I could never stop the leak so I just went to the Monsoon hardlock fittings and that fixed the problem. The hardlock fittings were easy to work with except for one tube of the four I ordered which was obviously smaller in diameter. The lock collars would more or less stick on the other 3 tubes but just fall off the fourth tube and I could never get the air bubbles completely out. Those fittings are kind of ugly but you can't see them so I'm not too worried about it as long as they don't leak.
> 
> @BoxGods - I finally figured out why I could never get a straight cut with the miter box - the saw blade was installed incorrectly (probably my fault). The pin that holds the blade in place was locked into the wrong position (which is actually an easy mistake to make) and it was twisting the blade just a little causing it to cut off-plane. I figured it out after about 2 dozen cuts - if I had noticed that in the beginning it would have save lots of time and frustration, but lesson learned and now I get straight cuts. I'll be interested to see how all the tools work with acrylic versus PETG. Thanks for the help and advice!


Well I think you did a very nice job especially since it's you first. And I really do believe those chaingun fittings were made to compliment the design of those awesome looking res















I also used the chaingun in my build but the res is ek since monsoon didn't have cylinder res back when I build mine









Anyway hope you do just as good a job when you try out the acrylic tubes


----------



## Ceadderman

I actually did something like that with my saw too. Thankfully I noticed it before I tried making any cuts, but now I won't worry since I purchased a mini miter saw from HF tool company. I will do an unboxing and cut a piece of acrylic and post it soon.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Thanks. When I get back home I'll send you a picture of how I had messed up with the blade. Maybe if someone else comes along with the same issue in the future it will help.
> 
> EDIT: @BoxGods - this was for you - meant to click quote and not reply


I would appreciate it. I actually had one other guy that could not cut a tube without chopping the crap out of the miter box--a lot worse than you even. If I can replicate your observation it might explain why the miter box is easy and works well for everyone but then very rarely--like one in 5,000 or something--there is a customer who just swears it is impossible to use the miter box.


----------



## Ceadderman

I will take a pic of my miter box too. I gouged it without realizing it.

I let my saws do the work so was a bit surprised that it ever happened.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I will take a pic of my miter box too. I gouged it without realizing it.
> 
> I let my saws do the work so was a bit surprised that it ever happened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Knowing you this does not surprise me?


----------



## Ceadderman

Lol, my cheapo miter box back saw hasn't a gouge in it. And not for lack of use.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Thought I would share a new mod by David Cathey. It has been a while since I have seen a mod that was this radically "different". Amazing job all the way round. I think he will be entering it in the CoolerMaster mod contest.


----------



## VSG

That's very cool


----------



## Crosshatch3D

Bizarre, yet cool. Definitely interesting and creative. Not my style though...lol

Regards,

-Jason


----------



## paultoke

Wow nice work, Its not until you look at the Monsoon res you realise how big it is.
That would creep the Mrs out for sure lol


----------



## BoxGods

I had the same thought/response. Amazing idea and amazing execution...not a huge fan of bugs in general but the fact that it creeps me out a little is sort of a testament to the craftsmanship in a weird way.


----------



## Malum

Although I'm sure that thing took some effort to make, I didn't want such a thing in my house








I find it more "special" than pretty. Maybe a small kid would think it could be awesome to have in hos room..


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Although I'm sure that thing took some effort to make, I didn't want such a thing in my house
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I find it more "special" than pretty. Maybe a small kid would think it could be awesome to have in hos room..


My son would love that build. Though I would definitely have to hardline it cause if it has any flex in it at all, he'll have it apart. Should see the bottom of our rattan wicker stand. He's got one leg in tatters.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I would appreciate it. I actually had one other guy that could not cut a tube without chopping the crap out of the miter box--a lot worse than you even. If I can replicate your observation it might explain why the miter box is easy and works well for everyone but then very rarely--like one in 5,000 or something--there is a customer who just swears it is impossible to use the miter box.


Ok, I finally had a chance to photo how the saw blade got installed incorrectly. First picture shows correct placement. Second pic shows blade in place incorrectly but not yet locked or snapped into place. If you look closely at the pic (or better yet at an actual saw) you can see that there is a "pocket" for the horizontal lock pin to sit in. If you're not paying attention







, you can position the lock pin below the ridge that forms the bottom of the pocket. The plastic handle will still lock the blade in place like it is supposed to with no problem. However, with the pin positioned below the ridge and out of the pocket, it gets twisted (see 3rd pic). There is enough tension to hold it in place but, at least in my case, I could never get a straight cut. As soon as I locked the blade in place correctly (as in the first pic) the cuts were flat like they should be.





I know I was pressing too hard in the beginning and that was a big part of the problem. Once I backed off a bit and started cutting slow and easy, it got better but there was still a definite angle to my cuts. I also learned that if you put tape on the tube at the cut point, that can elevate the tube off the bottom of the miter box. If you then press on the tube at the back of the miter box (far end from the cutting end) to hold the tube steady while cutting you can actually tilt the tube up (because you are pressing the untaped section down to the bottom of the miter box). It's not much of a tilt, but it can definitely affect the angle of the cut.

Hope that all makes sense - if it's not clear let me know.


----------



## TobagoCay

Love the "bug" build. Any idea if he's named it? Looks like something from Starship Troopers.


----------



## TobagoCay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Well I think you did a very nice job especially since it's you first. And I really do believe those chaingun fittings were made to compliment the design of those awesome looking res
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also used the chaingun in my build but the res is ek since monsoon didn't have cylinder res back when I build mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway hope you do just as good a job when you try out the acrylic tubes


Thanks! BTW, I never did respond when you said your native tongue was Danish - I fell in love with Denmark on my first visit to Copenhagen - it was July (1993) and everyone was out in the streets, and the women were all blonde, beautiful and as tall as me! Wonderful place, friendly people, good beer - can't ask for more!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> Ok, I finally had a chance to photo how the saw blade got installed incorrectly. First picture shows correct placement. Second pic shows blade in place incorrectly but not yet locked or snapped into place. If you look closely at the pic (or better yet at an actual saw) you can see that there is a "pocket" for the horizontal lock pin to sit in. If you're not paying attention
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , you can position the lock pin below the ridge that forms the bottom of the pocket. The plastic handle will still lock the blade in place like it is supposed to with no problem. However, with the pin positioned below the ridge and out of the pocket, it gets twisted (see 3rd pic). There is enough tension to hold it in place but, at least in my case, I could never get a straight cut. As soon as I locked the blade in place correctly (as in the first pic) the cuts were flat like they should be.
> 
> I know I was pressing too hard in the beginning and that was a big part of the problem. Once I backed off a bit and started cutting slow and easy, it got better but there was still a definite angle to my cuts. I also learned that if you put tape on the tube at the cut point, that can elevate the tube off the bottom of the miter box. If you then press on the tube at the back of the miter box (far end from the cutting end) to hold the tube steady while cutting you can actually tilt the tube up (because you are pressing the untaped section down to the bottom of the miter box). It's not much of a tilt, but it can definitely affect the angle of the cut.
> 
> Hope that all makes sense - if it's not clear let me know.


I see what you mean now...interesting. I will set one up like that and make a few cuts.

Thanks for taking the time to do that. I really appreciate it.


----------



## Shurika

Hello everyone!

Today I receive 6-pack Monsoon Hardline Economy fitings 13/10mm ID 3/8" OD 1/2"

The fitings are great, but my knowledge is poor. Every fiting goes with 2 big o-rings of the same size: 18/13 mm (maybe 17,5/12,5) - they are perfect for tubes and G1/4

Also there is a pack of small o-rings, 12 pcs, size 13/8 mm - they are perfectly stand into the fiting, just under the tube. The pack of every fifting is like on this picture: https://static.digitecgalaxus.ch/Fil...ogressive-jpeg

the question is: am I understand the places for big and small o-rings right or I'm doing something wrong? Thanks for help and sorry for my English


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shurika*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> Today I receive 6-pack Monsoon Hardline Economy fitings 13/10mm ID 3/8" OD 1/2"
> 
> The fitings are great, but my knowledge is poor. Every fiting goes with 2 big o-rings of the same size: 18/13 mm (maybe 17,5/12,5) - they are perfect for tubes and G1/4
> 
> Also there is a pack of small o-rings, 12 pcs, size 13/8 mm - they are perfectly stand into the fiting, just under the tube. The pack of every fifting is like on this picture: https://static.digitecgalaxus.ch/Fil...ogressive-jpeg
> 
> the question is: am I understand the places for big and small o-rings right or I'm doing something wrong? Thanks for help and sorry for my English


Yes. There are extra because we include spares in case you ever need them.


----------



## Shurika

Many thanks for reply!


----------



## Shurika

Want to ask one more time: is there the right place for small o-ring and what function of such a place?


----------



## BoxGods

Just got production samples in of the white molded parts and the CCFL plugs. Very nice =)

I will be taking product pictures this weekend--will post a few here. PPCS has an order in transit for CCFL Plugs so they should have them up on their site by mid-week "ish".

Also inverters are finally done and ready to head out the door.

Have a great weekend everybody


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shurika*
> 
> Want to ask one more time: is there the right place for small o-ring and what function of such a place?


Small oring slips over the port side G1/4 thread. The extra is to replace the installed one should you need it. It does not go inside the fitting at all.









~Ceadder


----------



## Shurika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Small oring slips over the port side G1/4 thread.


I'm a little afraid to break the small o-ring because of its really small size


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shurika*
> 
> I'm a little afraid to break the small o-ring because of its really small size


It won't break, its rubber, it stretches. Slide one end of the o ring onto the thread then apply pressure and rotate the fitting, the oring will slide down into it's groove.


----------



## Shurika

Big thank to everyone who reply! Will follow your instructions


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> It won't break, its rubber, it stretches. Slide one end of the o ring onto the thread then apply pressure and rotate the fitting, the oring will slide down into it's groove.


Just tell it it is beautiful and that you will still respect it in the morning and you will be fine =)


----------



## Mystriss

hmmm, I usually tell mine to obey or I'll bite. It's worked out so far, other than the blood stains on the case. Some bite back...

Maybe I'll try the "nice" approach next time.


----------



## Bear907

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just got production samples in of the white molded parts and the CCFL plugs. Very nice =)
> 
> I will be taking product pictures this weekend--will post a few here. PPCS has an order in transit for CCFL Plugs so they should have them up on their site by mid-week "ish".
> 
> Also inverters are finally done and ready to head out the door.
> 
> Have a great weekend everybody


Excellent! Are we still going to be seeing the fan/radiator mounts soon too?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> hmmm, I usually tell mine to obey or I'll bite. It's worked out so far, other than the blood stains on the case. Some bite back...
> 
> Maybe I'll try the "nice" approach next time.


O Ring bites...sounds like an episode of Fringe


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> Excellent! Are we still going to be seeing the fan/radiator mounts soon too?


Whoops I forgot to check up on these. Will find out Monday and get back to you.


----------



## VSG

I miss Fringe


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> I miss Fringe


I have been binge watching it on Netflix the last few weeks. My first time watching it again and it actually is holding up really well. You would be surprised how often the watchers show up in the background for brief little flashes...like people passing by on the street or in the background. Lots of little Easter eggs. A child development book by Dr. Spock on Bell's coffee table..stuff like that.

Also...and I freely admit that this is silly, but on one of the machines / devices Walter and Peter are tinkering with (built by the First People) there are several fitting barbs sticking out the top. They are in frame for several minutes and since there are no tubes on them you can clearly see that they are Fat Boys. I designed those fittings and we did the manufacturing on them for Danger Den. Again silly I know but it made me smile.

The prop guys just sourced lots of bits and pieces from other items--like the tops of R/C airplane engines and the arms from hard drives etc.


----------



## VSG

Observers









I watched the series mostly before I got into watercooling so I never caught the barbs bit. Any idea which episode?


----------



## BoxGods

Not sure. I am halfway thru season 3 now so it must have been about the middle of season 2. It is not a big deal--just a bunch of wires and mechanical "bits" and a few fittings on top with Peter and Walter standing there talking.


----------



## VSG

That's still cool, either way


----------



## Seufari

Here is my plan and I am wondering if it will work like I want it to...

Horizontal res with two end caps with "side" ports and a coupler in the middle for filling.

I'd like to mount the res not using the normal mounting hardware but rather male to male extensions into a bulkhead/pass through fitting. I'd like to only use two in opposite 'corners' of the res but not sure this will provide enough stability.

Any foreseeable issues?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seufari*
> 
> Here is my plan and I am wondering if it will work like I want it to...
> 
> Horizontal res with two end caps with "side" ports and a coupler in the middle for filling.
> 
> I'd like to mount the res not using the normal mounting hardware but rather male to male extensions into a bulkhead/pass through fitting. I'd like to only use two in opposite 'corners' of the res but not sure this will provide enough stability.
> 
> Any foreseeable issues?


No that would support the reservoir just fine I think.


----------



## Mongo

I need this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-d5-motor-mounting-cover-red.html anyone know of a place that has it? I have waited 3 weeks now for it to come back in stock.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mongo*
> 
> I need this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-d5-motor-mounting-cover-red.html anyone know of a place that has it? I have waited 3 weeks now for it to come back in stock.


Sent you a PM.


----------



## TobagoCay

PETG vs. Acrylic

Holy crap what a difference that made! I just wasn't satisfied with how the PETG tubing looked and I never really felt like the process worked the way I had expected after watching all of BoxGods' videos. The bends in the PETG tube were never really 90 degrees and trying to do two bends on separate planes was just plain ugly. So I decided to order some acrylic tubing (Monsoon of course) and give it a try. Wow, what a difference. My first two bends were perfect if I do say so myself!







I was brought back to earth on my third bend, but the next one was fine. All in all everything seemed to work the way I had originally expected - cutting, polishing, bending, etc. All of the Monsoon tools worked flawlessly with the acrylic where I was never satisfied with the results in PETG. The final result is something that I am now proud of. I still have some cable sleeving and clean up to do, and the case lighting needs work, but the MMRS-based loop is done for now (until I get a new GPU) and I couldn't be happier. It may just be operator error as far as the PETG is concerned, but I will stick with acrylic from now on.

Finally - clean bends and straight lines!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> PETG vs. Acrylic
> 
> Holy crap what a difference that made! I just wasn't satisfied with how the PETG tubing looked and I never really felt like the process worked the way I had expected after watching all of BoxGods' videos. The bends in the PETG tube were never really 90 degrees and trying to do two bends on separate planes was just plain ugly. So I decided to order some acrylic tubing (Monsoon of course) and give it a try. Wow, what a difference. My first two bends were perfect if I do say so myself!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was brought back to earth on my third bend, but the next one was fine. All in all everything seemed to work the way I had originally expected - cutting, polishing, bending, etc. All of the Monsoon tools worked flawlessly with the acrylic where I was never satisfied with the results in PETG. The final result is something that I am now proud of. I still have some cable sleeving and clean up to do, and the case lighting needs work, but the MMRS-based loop is done for now (until I get a new GPU) and I couldn't be happier. It may just be operator error as far as the PETG is concerned, but I will stick with acrylic from now on.
> 
> Finally - clean bends and straight lines!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks great


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TobagoCay*
> 
> PETG vs. Acrylic
> 
> Holy crap what a difference that made! I just wasn't satisfied with how the PETG tubing looked and I never really felt like the process worked the way I had expected after watching all of BoxGods' videos. The bends in the PETG tube were never really 90 degrees and trying to do two bends on separate planes was just plain ugly. So I decided to order some acrylic tubing (Monsoon of course) and give it a try. Wow, what a difference. My first two bends were perfect if I do say so myself!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was brought back to earth on my third bend, but the next one was fine. All in all everything seemed to work the way I had originally expected - cutting, polishing, bending, etc. All of the Monsoon tools worked flawlessly with the acrylic where I was never satisfied with the results in PETG. The final result is something that I am now proud of. I still have some cable sleeving and clean up to do, and the case lighting needs work, but the MMRS-based loop is done for now (until I get a new GPU) and I couldn't be happier. It may just be operator error as far as the PETG is concerned, but I will stick with acrylic from now on.
> 
> Finally - clean bends and straight lines!


Although I also prefer acrylic for its versatility (being able to polish it is a big plus sometimes) it is important for first time user to know that acrylic is much less tolerant for repeated heating and bending cycles. What that means is if you don't get the bend right the first or second try you can build a lot of stress into the tube that leads to cracking. The work you did with the PETG has a lot to do with why you had such great results with Acrylic--that practice paid off as the build looks awesome =)


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Although I also prefer acrylic for its versatility (being able to polish it is a big plus sometimes) it is important for first time user to know that acrylic is much less tolerant for repeated heating and bending cycles. What that means is if you don't get the bend right the first or second try you can build a lot of stress into the tube that leads to cracking. The work you did with the PETG has a lot to do with why you had such great results with Acrylic--that practice paid off as the build looks awesome =)


Hmm, so Acrylic isn't resistant towards "re-heating"? How about PETG then, better resistant if you want to re-do a bend?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Hmm, so Acrylic isn't resistant towards "re-heating"? How about PETG then, better resistant if you want to re-do a bend?


Acrylic is a harder material and that hardness is one of the reasons it polishes so nicely. The downside is that it also makes acrylic more brittle than PETG and as a result, more prone to cracking. When you heat and cool acrylic unevenly stress is "built" into the material which increases that tendency towards being brittle. Think of different things you have bent back and forth till they break--some materials you bend back and forth once or twice and they break. Other materials you can bend back and forth many times before they break.

People tend to want a definitive "rule" like "Never reheat and rebend more than two times" or something like that. I can't really put out hard and fast "rules" like that because there are several variables involved. How fast or slow the bends are done, how hot you got the material prior to bending, how smoothly the force was applied, how evenly the material was heated and cooled, etc.. I have a fair amount of practice so I would likely be fine with three heat/bend cycles where somebody with less practice or who is heating the tube very rapidly and unevenly would get cracking on three heat/bend cycles.

Because of that my official recommendation is that people new to bending tube might do better with PETG for their first build as it is a more forgiving material to work with and mistakes or doing things less than perfect won't end up with tube cracking. Then once you have a build or some bending practice under your belt if you want to step up the quality of your end results you can make the move to acrylic.


----------



## ruffhi

In metals it is all about the breaking of the grains until finally those small grains cause it to break. These grains can be 'reset' (called recrystallization?) by the application of heat so that you can start the process again. It is interesting to note that the temperature that this recrystallization occurs in lead (Pb) is about room temperature. Try flexing lead back and forth until it breaks ... you can't do it.

Note ... the above is in relationship to METAL (or so I have been told) ... I have no idea if this applies to PETG, Acrylic, plastic, etc.


----------



## Ceadderman

No matter which tubing I use, my hard and fast rule is one heating only per bend.

If you gaffe a bend toss the whole tube in a box and keep it for future use where a shorter run is required. Start with long runs first down to the shortest. Yes it seems wasteful, but eventually with that practice you should have a better understanding what is required.

So, Geno are you gonna tease us with some pics of the new Economy fittings?









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No matter which tubing I use, my hard and fast rule is one heating only per bend.
> 
> If you gaffe a bend toss the whole tube in a box and keep it for future use where a shorter run is required. Start with long runs first down to the shortest. Yes it seems wasteful, but eventually with that practice you should have a better understanding what is required.
> 
> So, Geno are you gonna tease us with some pics of the new Economy fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes Boxgods, we're still waiting for your tease please...


----------



## BoxGods

What a PITA the packaging process for the Ev2 fittings has been. All of the manufacturing and actual packages have been done for WEEKS. The fittings are even in the boxes and everything is ready to go...except the little printed plastic template slash directions card. The entire show has been on hold for a $0.20 plastic template because we could not find a shop that can index the printing and stamping accurately enough for the measurement marks on the template to be correct.

We think we have finally found a shop up to the task, (thankfully).

Not sure if I have mentioned it about the Ev2 fittings yet but the new design allows for an especially good fit on the tube (almost no wobble and very good holding power) by having several parts bags sized to fit a range of tube OD's. So the 13mm (1/2") fitting fits tube OD's from 11.8mm to 13.2mm and the 16mm (5/8") fitting fits tube OD's from 15.2mm to 16.2mm. So for the 13mm size that is a tube variance or range of almost 1.5mm and you still get best in class holding power on the tube.

And no lock collars =)

Pictures soon as there is one more "cool feature" I can't share just yet.


----------



## TOOLP

Thats very nice to hear, i want to use Glass tubes in my Rig, but the are only in exactly 13mm od avalible here in Germany. So its Perfect that the new Fittings will Support that.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> Thats very nice to hear, i want to use Glass tubes in my Rig, but the are only in exactly 13mm od avalible here in Germany. So its Perfect that the new Fittings will Support that.


Yes I am a bit excited about using them for glass as well. It is hard to design a true compression fitting that won't crack plastic tube, and even harder to do that for glass. I have a friend who bends glass tube for making neon signs and that idea of having bent glass tube in a rig has been in the back of my mind for years.

Of course in my build "daydreams" it is a tube within a tube setup where water runs through the inner tube and there is neon gas in the sealed outer tube and the neon lighting has that plasma lightning thing going on.

So may ideas, so little time.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yes I am a bit excited about using them for glass as well. It is hard to design a true compression fitting that won't crack plastic tube, and even harder to do that for glass. I have a friend who bends glass tube for making neon signs and that idea of having bent glass tube in a rig has been in the back of my mind for years.
> 
> Of course in my build "daydreams" it is a tube within a tube setup where water runs through the inner tube and there is neon gas in the sealed outer tube and the neon lighting has that plasma lightning thing going on.
> 
> So may ideas, so little time.


Well, if things goes according to plane, if I can get to the finish line with a new sponsor I am talking to, I will do glass tubing in my next build - otherwise acrylic again. I already have the glass tubing for my next project, just need the 48 rigid tubing fittings LOL. That´s the issue with glass, you can only run straight pipes, so the amount of fittings is INSANE!

Geno, after the EV2, and now when the MMRS is launched, what is the next "step", or category you are going to explore?







Water blocks?


----------



## TOOLP

Here is another Question from me. Do you plan to bring Monsoon Waterblocks and/or Cable Combs to the Market? I think that Cable Combs in the Monsoon finishes would be very nice.


----------



## TOOLP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Well, if things goes according to plane, if I can get to the finish line with a new sponsor I am talking to, I will do glass tubing in my next build - otherwise acrylic again. I already have the glass tubing for my next project, just need the 48 rigid tubing fittings LOL. That´s the issue with glass, you can only run straight pipes, so the amount of fittings is INSANE!


Aquatuning carries Angled Glass Tubes, you should be able to get these in Sweden.


----------



## BoxGods

Doubtful on blocks. I have designed them before for other companies and it seems like you are always designing a new block for the latest card or motherboard. I do occasionally make myself or a buddy custom full coverage blocks...so if I did do a block that is the way I would go I think.

For now I am going to be focusing on my boat design =)

Not sure if I have ever showed you guys my pet project.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> Aquatuning carries Angled Glass Tubes, you should be able to get these in Sweden.


Already have the glass tubing







Aquatuning is one of the companies I am working with


----------



## Seufari

Would there be any close color match options for soft tubing with the colored mmrs tubes?


----------



## Ceadderman

As promised, here is some initial findings on my newest little toy from Harbor Freight.









Just got my DrillMaster on Wednesday. Opened up the box and have to say that the cost of shipping could have been less. The box was nearly 2 feet in length for an item whose box is in the 12" range. No biggie really since it was well packed with poly bubble bags from end to end, but for the cost from L.A. to Washington they coulda kept the shipping down by offering Flat Rate shipping in a smaller box and I would've got it in 2-3 days instead of a week. Bad form on Harbor Freight's part but meh, with the 20% off code shipping was nothing. So I guess I've a bit of a complainer streak in me.







lol

Okay now my review of sorts of the product.

Reasonably sturdy construction. The base though seems to have some wear for an unused item. So maybe I got one of those "use and return" units. Dunno. Just know that all points of wear are at the mounting points where one would use washers and bolts and seem to be consistent with that. A brand new unused item should have none of this. The safety brake is fine however. Just push the button and the saw moves freely on its axis. There was zero damage to the housing of the saw and has a rubber coating feel which is nice. The blade is straight and I have yet to use it, so won't know(until it sees use) for sure.

Okay, now one thing I have not seen anyone touch on...

Depth of cut. For people who use this for smaller diameter tubing, you're going to get a good clean cut. As someone said earlier... *LIKE BUTTA*









So for me and future builds where I am cutting 3/8" pipe straight through the first shot. But on 5/8" tubing you're only going to get through 2/3 of the tube before the saw bottoming out on the tube. I'm sure that with some modification I could possibly remedy this in short order with my Dremel. Won't know til I get a better look under the housing where it bulges. It could be that I won't be able to modify the housing to sit with a slight gap around the tubing. I know it doesn't seem like that big a deal, but if you have a tight angle to work around this can be quite irritating. Because while you can simply rotate the tubing to complete the cut, if you have a tight angle it's not possible. No way no how, because your bend will act as a brake. Rotate up and you run into the bottom of the saw. Rotate down and you bottom out on the base of it. I'm thinking the workaround is start your cut at the highest point of the angle, then adjust the tubing to the lowest point and attempt to finish the cut. Won't know until I get a multi directional plane tube on this. But this is kind of a niggly point with my mechanical brain. It's a limitation of sorts and maybe I am overthinking this but thought y'all would like to know. I'm just glad I don't have 3/4" tubing. Although not much larger than 5/8" I know.









Soon as I can get ahold of my phone and a reasonable workspace I will cobble together a proper Video Review. Til then this is my initial impression of the DrillMaster 120v 2" BenchTop cuttof saw. Item #62136.

Love your pedal powered Outrigger Geno!









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

The half inch cut limit is a bit of a bummer...but I suppose you can make the first cut and then just rotate the tube maybe? Have to line it up very carefully. I saw a 7.25" Ryobi cut off saw at Home Depot yesterday for $69. That is 1.5" of cut depth...and it even includes a laser =)

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-9-Amp-7-1-4-in-Corded-Miter-Saw-with-Laser-ZRTS1142L/204612180


----------



## Mystriss

Wait... Are you guys saying I can cut my tubing on this thing here? https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW718-12-Inch-Double-Bevel-Compound/dp/B000ASG8A8/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&srs=2588375011&ie=UTF8&qid=1465631925&sr=1-1

We have one in the shop (or well exactly like it, idk the part number off hand,) ours has a pipe holding jig too, but I guess I thought it would shatter the tubing, same with the Dremel. I figured I would need to hand saw...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Wait... Are you guys saying I can cut my tubing on this thing here? https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW718-12-Inch-Double-Bevel-Compound/dp/B000ASG8A8/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&srs=2588375011&ie=UTF8&qid=1465631925&sr=1-1
> 
> We have one in the shop (or well exactly like it, idk the part number off hand,) ours has a pipe holding jig too, but I guess I thought it would shatter the tubing, same with the Dremel. I figured I would need to hand saw...


Sure. You don't need to clamp the tube down. Also...I put a layer of blue painters tape down on the table to prevent any scratching. I also still put a wrap of the tape around the tube where I am cutting also.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> As promised, here is some initial findings on my newest little toy from Harbor Freight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my DrillMaster on Wednesday. Opened up the box and have to say that the cost of shipping could have been less. The box was nearly 2 feet in length for an item whose box is in the 12" range. No biggie really since it was well packed with poly bubble bags from end to end, but for the cost from L.A. to Washington they coulda kept the shipping down by offering Flat Rate shipping in a smaller box and I would've got it in 2-3 days instead of a week. Bad form on Harbor Freight's part but meh, with the 20% off code shipping was nothing. So I guess I've a bit of a complainer streak in me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> Okay now my review of sorts of the product.
> 
> Reasonably sturdy construction. The base though seems to have some wear for an unused item. So maybe I got one of those "use and return" units. Dunno. Just know that all points of wear are at the mounting points where one would use washers and bolts and seem to be consistent with that. A brand new unused item should have none of this. The safety brake is fine however. Just push the button and the saw moves freely on its axis. There was zero damage to the housing of the saw and has a rubber coating feel which is nice. The blade is straight and I have yet to use it, so won't know(until it sees use) for sure.
> 
> Okay, now one thing I have not seen anyone touch on...
> 
> Depth of cut. For people who use this for smaller diameter tubing, you're going to get a good clean cut. As someone said earlier... *LIKE BUTTA*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So for me and future builds where I am cutting 3/8" pipe straight through the first shot. But on 5/8" tubing you're only going to get through 2/3 of the tube before the saw bottoming out on the tube. I'm sure that with some modification I could possibly remedy this in short order with my Dremel. Won't know til I get a better look under the housing where it bulges. It could be that I won't be able to modify the housing to sit with a slight gap around the tubing. I know it doesn't seem like that big a deal, but if you have a tight angle to work around this can be quite irritating. Because while you can simply rotate the tubing to complete the cut, if you have a tight angle it's not possible. No way no how, because your bend will act as a brake. Rotate up and you run into the bottom of the saw. Rotate down and you bottom out on the base of it. I'm thinking the workaround is start your cut at the highest point of the angle, then adjust the tubing to the lowest point and attempt to finish the cut. Won't know until I get a multi directional plane tube on this. But this is kind of a niggly point with my mechanical brain. It's a limitation of sorts and maybe I am overthinking this but thought y'all would like to know. I'm just glad I don't have 3/4" tubing. Although not much larger than 5/8" I know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Soon as I can get ahold of my phone and a reasonable workspace I will cobble together a proper Video Review. Til then this is my initial impression of the DrillMaster 120v 2" BenchTop cuttof saw. Item #62136.
> 
> Love your pedal powered Outrigger Geno!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder






+REP for this. I was considering getting one but your the first I've seen that mentions it can't cut all the way through thicker tubing. Me and my hacksaw have a great relationship, think I will continue that for now.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Wait... Are you guys saying I can cut my tubing on this thing here? https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW718-12-Inch-Double-Bevel-Compound/dp/B000ASG8A8/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&srs=2588375011&ie=UTF8&qid=1465631925&sr=1-1
> 
> We have one in the shop (or well exactly like it, idk the part number off hand,) ours has a pipe holding jig too, but I guess I thought it would shatter the tubing, same with the Dremel. I figured I would need to hand saw...
> 
> 
> 
> Sure. You don't need to clamp the tube down. Also...I put a layer of blue painters tape down on the table to prevent any scratching. I also still put a wrap of the tape around the tube where I am cutting also.
Click to expand...

if its acrylic tube then definitely wrap the cut point. this will help keep the tube from chipping and cracking. also if your using a big miter saw like the link you would be best to use a fine tooth blade, not a course tooth for wood.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> I was considering getting one but your the first I've seen that mentions it can't cut all the way through thicker tubing. Me and my hacksaw have a great relationship, think I will continue that for now.


Pretty much the same here.
I looked into a powered "hobby" cut off saw with a 2" blade, but had a maximum cut depth of 13mm - I mostly use 14mm OD tube now so didn't bother with it and continue to use the mini hack saw


----------



## Ceadderman

I got it based on all the previous info posted here. I'm still going to use it but with tape on the tubing to keep the mark in line with the cut.









Just wish I woulda known in advance the limitation with the thicker tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I got it based on all the previous info posted here. I'm still going to use it but with tape on the tubing to keep the mark in line with the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wish I woulda known in advance the limitation with the thicker tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yeah...that saw is more for jewelry makers and small crafts. I don't really see the logic for it because maybe $30 more gets you a "real" chop saw with a 7.25" blade that can be used for lots of other projects around the house as you can cut two by fours. They also have dust collection bags that work reasonably well and you can hook your shop vac up to them.

The same goes for Dremel tools. Why pay $50 to $75 for a light weight "hobby" tool when you can pay the same or less for a "real" rotary tool that has more power, a real chuck, foot petal for hands free speed control, and a flex shaft?

http://www.harborfreight.com/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I got it based on all the previous info posted here. I'm still going to use it but with tape on the tubing to keep the mark in line with the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wish I woulda known in advance the limitation with the thicker tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah...that saw is more for jewelry makers and small crafts. I don't really see the logic for it because maybe $30 more gets you a "real" chop saw with a 7.25" blade that can be used for lots of other projects around the house as you can cut two by fours. They also have dust collection bags that work reasonably well and you can hook your shop vac up to them.
> 
> The same goes for Dremel tools. Why pay $50 to $75 for a light weight "hobby" tool when you can pay the same or less for a "real" rotary tool that has more power, a real chuck, foot petal for hands free speed control, and a flex shaft?
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html
Click to expand...

I have a dremel, Rotozip, and miter saw with every blade and I use my dremel and hand hacksaw the most by a mile. Reason is because they're quick and easy to get out and put away again. I don't have any kind of a permanent she space... "yet", so I have to make due with the fast setup and put away items.


----------



## BoxGods

Hm...I had not considered the space thing. I am old so I have a garage AND a shop with a thousand plus square feet so space is not really an issue. Thinking back to my apartment days tho...I can see where small and easily stored is important. That roto tool usually comes with it's own case so it qualifies...the chop saw not so much obviously.

I think you still need to view tools as an investment. I would rather have fewer but better quality as they just work better and last longer. I won the wife lotto because my wife is very DIY and loves tools too. Many times we have been talking to friends or neighbors and I will hear her say something like "For routers Porter Cable hands down" or "Cordless drills Ryobi or Rigid. Corded heavy duty Milwaukee for sure". I just beam with pride =)


----------



## VSG

Feel like this thread should be renamed to "Monsoon Cooling Products and Discussion" or something.


----------



## geox19

Getting a lot closer to done. Monsoon makes some awesome stuff! So happy I went with it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I got it based on all the previous info posted here. I'm still going to use it but with tape on the tubing to keep the mark in line with the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wish I woulda known in advance the limitation with the thicker tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah...that saw is more for jewelry makers and small crafts. I don't really see the logic for it because maybe $30 more gets you a "real" chop saw with a 7.25" blade that can be used for lots of other projects around the house as you can cut two by fours. They also have dust collection bags that work reasonably well and you can hook your shop vac up to them.
> 
> The same goes for Dremel tools. Why pay $50 to $75 for a light weight "hobby" tool when you can pay the same or less for a "real" rotary tool that has more power, a real chuck, foot petal for hands free speed control, and a flex shaft?
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html
Click to expand...

I have one available anytime I need it. So it's not that big a deal. My Mother has an unused Ryobi in the box for anything she needs done at her house. With a 1 year old toddler(today is his Bday, one of many I hope







) it's difficult to trek out to her place to put in that time. Hopefully soon.









Although one of those is sort of overkill for anything under an inch tall in my opinion which was why I went with the DrillMaster. I think that I can still get it to work if I remove the vice portion of it as the saw will bottom out on the tube before the blade mars the top of the base surface. With more material cut it should be a cinch to dremel the remaining bit and then file the leftovers to a level flatness. Just have to figure out a way to secure the tubing just above the top of the base I think.










Since I had my GPU heatsinks machined to my needs to allow Thermospheres to mount over them and to my GPUs, I'm pretty sure I can figure this little conundrum out so I don't have to send a Battleship, to do the work of a Tug.







[
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I got it based on all the previous info posted here. I'm still going to use it but with tape on the tubing to keep the mark in line with the cut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just wish I woulda known in advance the limitation with the thicker tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah...that saw is more for jewelry makers and small crafts. I don't really see the logic for it because maybe $30 more gets you a "real" chop saw with a 7.25" blade that can be used for lots of other projects around the house as you can cut two by fours. They also have dust collection bags that work reasonably well and you can hook your shop vac up to them.
> 
> The same goes for Dremel tools. Why pay $50 to $75 for a light weight "hobby" tool when you can pay the same or less for a "real" rotary tool that has more power, a real chuck, foot petal for hands free speed control, and a flex shaft?
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/flexible-shaft-grinder-and-carver-40432.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have a dremel, Rotozip, and miter saw with every blade and I use my dremel and hand hacksaw the most by a mile. Reason is because they're quick and easy to get out and put away again. I don't have any kind of a permanent she space... "yet", so I have to make due with the fast setup and put away items.
Click to expand...

I have those too. But since a mini chop saw would be the better way to go, that's the way I went. I think I have the bigger tubing dilemma worked out. Having removed the vice from the surface of the base, I have found that the saw will cut through most of the 5/8" of material. Basically right to a couple hundredths of an inch. The base seems to be approximately 12mm thick maybe a little more. Without the Vice in place it lowers the material on the surface to allow a deeper cut. So all I need now is a small vice that I can mount offset to the work surface on either side to allow for multi axis tubes as well as straights. There is less than 1/2" clearance on the right side of the saw(which is the approximate width of the blade cover to the blade) so I have figure out a reasonable solution that doesn't require my using a Battleship to cut hardline.

I knew if I just slept on it I would be able to get this saw to do what I bought it to do.







lulz

~Ceadder









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Getting a lot closer to done. Monsoon makes some awesome stuff! So happy I went with it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


That's slightly insane.









But damn I am so Jelly right now.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Feel like this thread should be renamed to "Monsoon Cooling Products and Discussion" or something.


Many pages ago we petitioned it to be renamed to the Monsoon Owners Club, but it seems the OP is MiA...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Feel like this thread should be renamed to "Monsoon Cooling Products and Discussion" or something.
> 
> 
> 
> Many pages ago we petitioned it to be renamed to the Monsoon Owners Club, but it seems the OP is MiA...
Click to expand...

I think we need a Mod to step in and combine this with the other Monsoon thread. But far be it for me to jack the thread and make this decision.









Oh and if this DrillMaster works how I believe it will now that I've thought of a workable solution, you should get one to add to your collection. Because the thing is massive.

Massively *dinky* anyway.









~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

That's slightly insane. kookoo.gif

But damn I am so Jelly right now. mellowsmiley.gif

~Ceadder smil3dbd4e4c2e742.gif
Edited by Ceadderman - Today at 1:43 pm

I couldn't agree more no clue how it got to this point lol. Thanks Monsoon damn MMRS make me spend me money lol


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Getting a lot closer to done. Monsoon makes some awesome stuff! So happy I went with it.


That's soooo /jellybelly...


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> +REP for this. I was considering getting one but your the first I've seen that mentions it can't cut all the way through thicker tubing. Me and my hacksaw have a great relationship, think I will continue that for now.
> if its acrylic tube then definitely wrap the cut point. this will help keep the tube from chipping and cracking. also if your using a big miter saw like the link you would be best to use a fine tooth blade, not a course tooth for wood.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sure. You don't need to clamp the tube down. Also...I put a layer of blue painters tape down on the table to prevent any scratching. I also still put a wrap of the tape around the tube where I am cutting also.


Well cool, I'll have to try it out. I've got an acrylic blade for it somewhere, I'd used it when I was testing angles for LED light trays.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Getting a lot closer to done. Monsoon makes some awesome stuff! So happy I went with it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Fantastic job!







I love how you did the bends and the way the colors go together. Did you have to do anything to prevent sagging on the reservoirs, especially the bottom one?


----------



## BoxGods

The reservoirs are pretty stout...you could use one to club somebody if needed









I have to agree...that build is just flat out INSANE. I spent about 10 minutes checking out all the little details...and now I have this overwhelming urge to play Mario Brothers...while eating Jolly Ranchers =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The reservoirs are pretty stout...you could use one to club somebody if needed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to agree...that build is just flat out INSANE. I spent about 10 minutes checking out all the little details...and now I have this overwhelming urge to play Mario Brothers...while eating Jolly Ranchers =)


I thought I was the only one. But fer me it's GoGurt Pops.









~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Fantastic job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love how you did the bends and the way the colors go together. Did you have to do anything to prevent sagging on the reservoirs, especially the bottom one?


Thanks for the kind compliments Deedaz and everyone else well i think there kind compliments lol. Yeah the reservoirs are very strong and well made the only reasons I needed to use one mount at the end of each res is because there was just too much wiggle going on if I just used the bay drive brackets.I think installing the mounts was the most stressful part of the build. I actually had to level the case and reserviors pull the 5 point laser level out to line up the holes because if I drilled them in the wrong place that's it I'd have to go get another piece of 3/4" acrylic and start all over. Not to mention I had to drill everything with my dewalt drill because the acrylic wouldn't fit on the drill press, I'm actually amazed i was able to drill and tap where the tubes go through the wall without using the drill press. No clue how I lucked out and the 55mm mounts fit perfectly just needed to get a hold of some 90mm hex m4 screws. Not sure how many fittings I used all together but there has to be at least over 100 places that could leak, I was actually expecting leaks not a one. You guys are right insane build my eyes are still messed up from using those measuring kits I was going to use different fittings but I'm glad I didn't the extra efforts you take in using monsoon fittings are well worth it in the end. Oh and those chain gun fitting are just too sexy IMO. Any chance of getting them in white in the future?


----------



## BoxGods

I think all the colors was a brave choice that paid off very well. It is easy to go overboard with color and if it isn't well executed you get all of the "eclectic" and not much of the wow. You nailed it tho IMO.


----------



## fast_fate

Something's lurking in the shadows.....














What an awesome CCFL mounting systems we are treated to with MMRS


----------



## Ceadderman

Here are some pics for the DrillMaster I reviewed here. Finally got the phone so I could put them up.









Unboxing the boxed unit.













Since we've all seen these a few times I chose to skip the whole unit and show it without the protective shroud covering the spindle and blade.



Removed the miter vice to check the deck height with a piece of 5/8" hardline. Fits reasonably with the deck barely able to be scored by the blade.



It still requires a bit of filing on the rounded portions you can see here but a flat file should allow enough material to be removed to get a cut clean through 5/8" pipe. I will likely Dremel a short line into the deck to keep the blade safe from the harder deck material and to keep the tubing clean of metallic debris.











The Blade has been used. There is a slight score on the part number of the blade. It's a "\" angle across the #42805. Straight through the # symbol the number 4 and ends at the front base of the 2. Also the directional rotation marker is slightly worn. Having handled my fair share of Dremel bits and blades, I've never seen these kinds of marks on something packaged up and new. There are no teeth missing so I can live with it, but no way it should ever be sold as new. Whoever purchased, used and returned it should be ashamed of themselves imho. It's not like these things cost a Mint after all. I wil be contacting Harbor Freight and letting them know however. Even if they don't make it right with me, maybe they can train their people better. I would've never refunded on this saw. "You used it you bought it."











Sorry for the potato pics. This last one I wasn't able to get a clean straight shot but you can see at the Rotation marker what I am referring to maybe.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Detailed review just posted with plenty plenty info on the MMRS, particularly the MMRS-TRP


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I think all the colors was a brave choice that paid off very well. It is easy to go overboard with color and if it isn't well executed you get all of the "eclectic" and not much of the wow. You nailed it tho IMO.


Thanks Boxgods made my day to read your reply. Thanks for all the awesome products you guys come up with. A bay reservoir with a tube on the back if I want and I can mix and match colors and lengths. Just pure awesomeness!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Here are some pics for the DrillMaster I reviewed here. Finally got the phone so I could put them up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unboxing the boxed unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since we've all seen these a few times I chose to skip the whole unit and show it without the protective shroud covering the spindle and blade.
> 
> 
> 
> Removed the miter vice to check the deck height with a piece of 5/8" hardline. Fits reasonably with the deck barely able to be scored by the blade.
> 
> 
> 
> It still requires a bit of filing on the rounded portions you can see here but a flat file should allow enough material to be removed to get a cut clean through 5/8" pipe. I will likely Dremel a short line into the deck to keep the blade safe from the harder deck material and to keep the tubing clean of metallic debris.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Blade has been used. There is a slight score on the part number of the blade. It's a "\" angle across the #42805. Straight through the # symbol the number 4 and ends at the front base of the 2. Also the directional rotation marker is slightly worn. Having handled my fair share of Dremel bits and blades, I've never seen these kinds of marks on something packaged up and new. There are no teeth missing so I can live with it, but no way it should ever be sold as new. Whoever purchased, used and returned it should be ashamed of themselves imho. It's not like these things cost a Mint after all. I wil be contacting Harbor Freight and letting them know however. Even if they don't make it right with me, maybe they can train their people better. I would've never refunded on this saw. "You used it you bought it."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the potato pics. This last one I wasn't able to get a clean straight shot but you can see at the Rotation marker what I am referring to maybe.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


What exactly are we using this for? I looked up your other posts to see if I could find out why your using this to cut the tubing but couldn't really find anything. I'm very curious to see what your actually going to use the drill master for??????


----------



## Master Chicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Detailed review just posted with plenty plenty info on the MMRS, particularly the MMRS-TRP


Where can said review be found?

I also love the CCFL mounting for the MMRS. I'm waiting for my S8 to arrive and that res and CCFL kit are on my list to accumulate.

Edit: Sorry, I just found it. My brain eventually associated your handle with the massive radiator roundup over at that "other" site. I will dig in immediately.


----------



## VSG

Go to Extremerigs.net for Stren and fast_fate


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Detailed review just posted with plenty plenty info on the MMRS, particularly the MMRS-TRP


Very nice review.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Detailed review just posted with plenty plenty info on the MMRS, particularly the MMRS-TRP


Reading it now ... Excellent review and thanks for the link to that Gigantea build. BTW ... you only list 5 tension rod lengths ... you missed the 50mm version.


----------



## Ceadderman

@geox19

I'm cutting 5/8" hardline. Which is why the DM needs minor modification to get a single pass straight through cut.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Time for a sneak peek of the new Ev2 fitting and the "special optional feature" I mentioned.

We have added a fiber laser to our repertoire so we will be offering custom etching services for Ev2 fittings. What that means is customers can submit their custom artwork and we will etch their design/s into the fittings. Cost will be $30 USD to etch a 12 pack of fittings and that includes shipping. Lead time from art approval to delivery will be about 10 days or less (depending on where you live, holidays, etc.). So reasonably inexpensive and pretty fast.

I have a few sample etches to post but please keep in mind my brain works like an engineer and not an artist--said another way I pretty much suck at anything art related. I view my job as giving you guys the tools you need to do the creative magic.

This first one is my attempt at a sort of Tribal tattoo with a weathered steam punk look.



This one is a more basic Hawk logo look. There are 3 of these spaced around the fitting. I should have gone a little bigger I think.



A little Thunder Cats type lion action. Think University or sports team Logo. Again 3 of these etched around the fitting. Bigger on this one also--maybe 50% .



A little Punisher type Skull--again 3 of these around the perimeter of the compression ring.



If you want to promote your hardware here is an Asus ROG logo, (ROG is around the fitting a bit)
This was a very shallow etch into the copper only. I think it looks better down into the brass so it is a gold color.



This last one I tinkered around with getting a filigree type pattern--the kind you might see on swords or knives--on a gold fitting.



The key point is that you get to pick what is etched onto theses--if you want anything on them that is.


----------



## VSG

Very cool


----------



## Ceadderman

That ROG logo will look sick on Red in Brass.









Looks like it's time for a change of fittings. When are these due to launch Geno? Maybe I can sell my current Economies in time to supplement the change









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Time for a sneak peek of the new Ev2 fitting and the "special optional feature" I mentioned.
> 
> We have added a fiber laser to our repertoire so we will be offering custom etching services for Ev2 fittings. What that means is customers can submit their custom artwork and we will etch their design/s into the fittings. Cost will be $30 USD to etch a 12 pack of fittings and that includes shipping. Lead time from art approval to delivery will be about 10 days or less (depending on where you live, holidays, etc.). So reasonably inexpensive and pretty fast.
> 
> I have a few sample etches to post but please keep in mind my brain works like an engineer and not an artist--said another way I pretty much suck at anything art related. I view my job as giving you guys the tools you need to do the creative magic.
> 
> This first one is my attempt at a sort of Tribal tattoo with a weathered steam punk look.
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a more basic Hawk logo look. There are 3 of these spaced around the fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> A little Thunder Cats type lion action. Think University or sports team Logo. Again 3 of these etched around the fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> A little Punisher type Skull--again 3 of these around the perimeter of the compression ring.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to promote your hardware here is an Asus ROG logo, (ROG is around the fitting a bit)
> This was a very shallow etch into the copper only. I think it looks better down into the brass so it is a gold color.
> 
> 
> 
> This last one I tinkered around with getting a filigree type pattern--the kind you might see on swords or knives--on a gold fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> The key point is that you get to pick what is etched onto theses--if you want anything on them that is.






Looks amazing! I have thought many times that lasering fittings would be cool, especially the accent disks, (hint, hint). Will we be able to order the custom engraving through PPCS or will it be some kind of direct order through Monsoon?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> That ROG logo will look sick on Red in Brass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like it's time for a change of fittings. When are these due to launch Geno? Maybe I can sell my current Economies in time to supplement the change
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Fittings, packaging, etc. are all done now. Just waiting on the printed sizing template / instructions that go in the box--you guys have rightfully pointed out in here a time or two that my directions are not always up to snuff.

I also want to point out that the option to add custom etching is just a bonus feature. The fittings themselves have almost zero tube "wobble" and have what I believe to be an industry best for tube holding power, (obviously this does not include our Hard Lock fittings). The best grip against tube pull out for push in type fittings IOW. They are also designed specifically to fit a fairly wide tube OD range. the 1/2" or 13mm size for example fits tube OD from 11.8mm to 13.2mm so problems from the small variations in tube OD from brand to brand and run to run are a thing of the past. Plastic, glass, carbon, or metal tube. And no adhesives =)

Here is the template / instructions for the 13mm fitting so you have an idea of how everything works. I will do a video also of course.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> Looks amazing! I have thought many times that lasering fittings would be cool, especially the accent disks, (hint, hint). Will we be able to order the custom engraving through PPCS or will it be some kind of direct order through Monsoon?


We can etch the accent disks too no problem. Being able to tie the fitting etch design into the rotary accent disks is going to be flat out bad A$$ =)

I have tried etching fittings on our Co2 laser and it just doesn't work very well. The Fiber Laser used to etch the MMRS logo on the load spreaders does a MUCH nicer job so all we had to do was add a rotary attachment and make a holding fixture that is easily and quickly loadable.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Time for a sneak peek of the new Ev2 fitting and the "special optional feature" I mentioned.
> 
> We have added a fiber laser to our repertoire so we will be offering custom etching services for Ev2 fittings. What that means is customers can submit their custom artwork and we will etch their design/s into the fittings. Cost will be $30 USD to etch a 12 pack of fittings and that includes shipping. Lead time from art approval to delivery will be about 10 days or less (depending on where you live, holidays, etc.). So reasonably inexpensive and pretty fast.
> 
> I have a few sample etches to post but please keep in mind my brain works like an engineer and not an artist--said another way I pretty much suck at anything art related. I view my job as giving you guys the tools you need to do the creative magic.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This first one is my attempt at a sort of Tribal tattoo with a weathered steam punk look.
> 
> 
> 
> This one is a more basic Hawk logo look. There are 3 of these spaced around the fitting. I should have gone a little bigger I think.
> 
> 
> 
> A little Thunder Cats type lion action. Think University or sports team Logo. Again 3 of these etched around the fitting. Bigger on this one also--maybe 50% .
> 
> 
> 
> A little Punisher type Skull--again 3 of these around the perimeter of the compression ring.
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to promote your hardware here is an Asus ROG logo, (ROG is around the fitting a bit)
> This was a very shallow etch into the copper only. I think it looks better down into the brass so it is a gold color.
> 
> 
> 
> This last one I tinkered around with getting a filigree type pattern--the kind you might see on swords or knives--on a gold fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The key point is that you get to pick what is etched onto theses--if you want anything on them that is.


That's amazing! Original and creative like all your stuff. They look great, the customization options are really exciting, and no darned lock collars or glue to mess with! These will definitely be going into my next build


----------



## Mega Man

.... I hate you boxgods... or do I love you and my wallet hates you..... and I am sure my wife will not be very happy with you at all.....


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Just to be clear I appreciate everything thing. And am attempting sarcasm with this post


----------



## BoxGods

Ah the wife. I just designed an awesome sling shot. I know I could sell thousands and thousands of them. Wife said, "um...no".

And that was that


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Fittings, packaging, etc. are all done now. Just waiting on the printed sizing template / instructions that go in the box--you guys have rightfully pointed out in here a time or two that my directions are not always up to snuff.
> 
> I also want to point out that the option to add custom etching is just a bonus feature. The fittings themselves have almost zero tube "wobble" and have what I believe to be an industry best for tube holding power, (obviously this does not include our Hard Lock fittings). The best grip against tube pull out for push in type fittings IOW. They are also designed specifically to fit a fairly wide tube OD range. the 1/2" or 13mm size for example fits tube OD from 11.8mm to 13.2mm so problems from the small variations in tube OD from brand to brand and run to run are a thing of the past. Plastic, glass, carbon, or metal tube. And no adhesives =)
> 
> Here is the template / instructions for the 13mm fitting so you have an idea of how everything works. I will do a video also of course.


Oh, so depending on the tube you are using there is different O-rings to use? What a clever idea! Just makes the wide range of potential customers even wider since they don't have to mess with different fittings when they go for either 12 or 13mm tubing.

About the etching, is gold the only option?







And if you have a design, how do I "transfer" the idea to you?









My idea is something like this (pictures are from google)


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We can etch the accent disks too no problem. Being able to tie the fitting etch design into the rotary accent disks is going to be flat out bad A$$ =)
> 
> I have tried etching fittings on our Co2 laser and it just doesn't work very well. The Fiber Laser used to etch the MMRS logo on the load spreaders does a MUCH nicer job so all we had to do was add a rotary attachment and make a holding fixture that is easily and quickly loadable.


this is epic...almost makes me want to go hardline...then i remember how much easier soft tubing is and how much rotaries and qdcs cost lol...this is very cool if you offered it on soft tubing fittings i would be all over it though


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Fittings, packaging, etc. are all done now. Just waiting on the printed sizing template / instructions that go in the box--you guys have rightfully pointed out in here a time or two that my directions are not always up to snuff.
> 
> I also want to point out that the option to add custom etching is just a bonus feature. The fittings themselves have almost zero tube "wobble" and have what I believe to be an industry best for tube holding power, (obviously this does not include our Hard Lock fittings). The best grip against tube pull out for push in type fittings IOW. They are also designed specifically to fit a fairly wide tube OD range. the 1/2" or 13mm size for example fits tube OD from 11.8mm to 13.2mm so problems from the small variations in tube OD from brand to brand and run to run are a thing of the past. Plastic, glass, carbon, or metal tube. And no adhesives =)
> 
> Here is the template / instructions for the 13mm fitting so you have an idea of how everything works. I will do a video also of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, so depending on the tube you are using there is different O-rings to use? What a clever idea! Just makes the wide range of potential customers even wider since they don't have to mess with different fittings when they go for either 12 or 13mm tubing.
> 
> About the etching, is gold the only option?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you have a design, how do I "transfer" the idea to you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My idea is something like this (pictures are from google)
Click to expand...

Mine is simple too. ROG logo on one side and Imperial logo on the other. So no matter where the collar lands a logo will be visible.









Maybe we can work out something to return the collars when I get these new fittings Geno?









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Mine is simple too. ROG logo on one side and Imperial logo on the other. So no matter where the collar lands a logo will be visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe we can work out something to return the collars when I get these new fittings Geno?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No don't advertise for Asus for Free!!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Mine is simple too. ROG logo on one side and Imperial logo on the other. So no matter where the collar lands a logo will be visible.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe we can work out something to return the collars when I get these new fittings Geno?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No don't advertise for Asus for Free!!!!!
Click to expand...

Hence the Imperial logo. Pretty sure Disney/Lucasfilms don't need the advertising either.







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hence the Imperial logo. Pretty sure Disney/Lucasfilms don't need the advertising either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder


Bad thing with disney is the might sue you for using it without paying them!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hence the Imperial logo. Pretty sure Disney/Lucasfilms don't need the advertising either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad thing with disney is the might sue you for using it without paying them!!!
Click to expand...

I'm safe then since LucasArts is the copyright holder.







hehe

~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hence the Imperial logo. Pretty sure Disney/Lucasfilms don't need the advertising either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad thing with disney is the might sue you for using it without paying them!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm safe then since LucasArts is the copyright holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Is the Imperial logo itself actually copyrighted, I mean by anyone other than the Emperor or Vader?


----------



## Benjiw

If you're looking for a graphic designer I'm going to be very available once I move out of my flat back home due to our flatmate's aggression and psychosis. Would love to sink my teeth into the pc sector of graphics.


----------



## Deedaz

I was having a tough time deciding between free centers or chain guns....now there's a 3rd amazing option!?!? If I end up moving the green lantern build over to the S8 I'm definitely getting some with little lanterns etched into them. That's almost reason enough to ditch the purple idea


----------



## Mystriss

Damn...

Sooo anyone want some matte black free-center fittings with hard line conversion kits? lol

I got an awesome idea for my build looking at these but needz clarification - I'm guessing this laser is taking off the monsoon color coat, so the "gold" color of the etching is actually the brass of the fitting yeah?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Oh, so depending on the tube you are using there is different O-rings to use? What a clever idea! Just makes the wide range of potential customers even wider since they don't have to mess with different fittings when they go for either 12 or 13mm tubing.
> 
> About the etching, is gold the only option?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And if you have a design, how do I "transfer" the idea to you?


Yes the fittings will include different O ring AND ferule sizes so they fit correctly on a full range of tube OD's. You just can't get a true compression fitting to work correctly on plastic any other way as there is simply not a one size fits all solution to the OD size difference between manufacturers and even from run to run of the same manufacturer.

If you mean any color of fitting etched through to the gold colored brass layer than yes. If you mean some kind of green colored etch than no.

We are not 100% set in stone on how ordering will work but so far it looks like this:

1. Customer orders a 12 pack of fittings from their favorite reseller and selects the "custom etch" add on which adds about $30 to the 12 pack price.
2. The reseller will have a download link that you use to download a template in .ai format. You use that template to to add your artwork and email it to the address on the template.
3. The reseller bills you and ships the rest of your order as normal. Everything except your 12 pack of fittings.
4. We use your supplied artwork to etch the fittings and drop ship directly to your door. Shipping is included in the $30 fee.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> this is epic...almost makes me want to go hardline...then i remember how much easier soft tubing is and how much rotaries and qdcs cost lol...this is very cool if you offered it on soft tubing fittings i would be all over it though


I will be adding the soft tube version--Free Center fittings (without the windows) in all four tube sizes.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystriss*
> 
> Damn...
> 
> Sooo anyone want some matte black free-center fittings with hard line conversion kits? lol
> 
> I got an awesome idea for my build looking at these but needz clarification - I'm guessing this laser is taking off the monsoon color coat, so the "gold" color of the etching is actually the brass of the fitting yeah?


Yes. We can etch thru just to the chrome layer, or thru to the copper layer, or all the way to the brass. I think the etches tend to look better all the way thru to the brass and that is more reliable/predictable/repeatable. I would like to also investigate machining the compression rings from aluminum so the etches are silver--but that is down the road a bit as resellers will balk at all the extra SKU's.


----------



## BoxGods

I should add in one more step that we may see initially. Until we have tried lots of different types of art work and know what works well for an etch and what doesn't I will TRY to have one fitting etched and a picture taken so the customer can see how it looks. One thing I need to avoid is lots of time sucking changes or issues on customer supplied art work. These are priced as inexpensively as we can so there just isn't a lot of room for changes or human man hours.

I will make that VERY clear on the art work template.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Hence the Imperial logo. Pretty sure Disney/Lucasfilms don't need the advertising either.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lulz
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bad thing with disney is the might sue you for using it without paying them!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm safe then since LucasArts is the copyright holder.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is the Imperial logo itself actually copyrighted, I mean by anyone other than the Emperor or Vader?
Click to expand...

Pretty sure it's only copyrighted for resale purposes. Meaning that if someone wishes to mod their item(s) they cannot sell it as "Official" merch.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure it's only copyrighted for resale purposes. Meaning that if someone wishes to mod their item(s) they cannot sell it as "Official" merch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I was just making a joke and oh how it grew!!!!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Pretty sure it's only copyrighted for resale purposes. Meaning that if someone wishes to mod their item(s) they cannot sell it as "Official" merch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was just making a joke and oh how it grew!!!!
Click to expand...

And how.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah I am pretty sure "personal use" is considered fair domain. You can paint Mickey Mouse on your kids bedroom walls...you just couldn't sell giant Mickey Mouse stickers for other people to stick on their kids walls.

As for copy righted material we will post that standard disclaimer print shops use that the customer is responsible for making sure they are not infringing on any person or companies intellectual property. If somebody contacted us and wanted 50 sets of fittings with Dallas Cowboys logos I would look into that.

Otherwise...


----------



## Mega Man

Hi I need 51 sets with.... 7-11 logo plz


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yeah I am pretty sure "personal use" is considered fair domain. You can paint Mickey Mouse on your kids bedroom walls...you just couldn't sell giant Mickey Mouse stickers for other people to stick on their kids walls.
> 
> As for copy righted material we will post that standard disclaimer print shops use that the customer is responsible for making sure they are not infringing on any person or companies intellectual property. If somebody contacted us and wanted 50 sets of fittings with Dallas Cowboys logos I would look into that.
> 
> Otherwise...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Anyone should know by now that putting the Cowboys logo on anything permanently breaks it. lol.

EDIT: Working on a little something with my new Skylake build. Can't decide on DDC with acrylic top or D5 with MMRS cover. I like the look of the FDP on both ends but think the D5 cover and TRP would look better for the pump, decisions decisions... Also, thought I had decided on the fittings, but after seeing the V2's I might rethink that, especially since they can support multiple tubing sizes, changing sizes on the fly would be a cinch! I'm already planning on using the Monsoon 90's with custom accent disks for the blocks and res inlet, so the V2's would fit right along with them. Waiting on the CPU block now and will start a build log.


----------



## Ceadderman

49ers logos don't.... well until recently didn't.









Stupid San Francisco government leaders have effectively cursed the team now that they've moved to Santa Freakin Clara.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Ah well...Jones can't go on forever right?

That SKYLAB case looks like it has plenty of room. Maybe split the reservoir into two? On the top reservoir use an FDP with a 50mm tube, and a coupler mated to a TRP. On the bottom reservoir you can use the FDP on the bottom end of the reservoir (obviously) and an end cap with side facing ports. Max tube length that will fit (and look good). You could even stagger then side by side and have some interesting over lap.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Ah well...Jones can't go on forever right?.


The Krypt Keeper (aka Al Davis) was around a lot longer and the Raiders have less Championships. If I were a Raider fan I would'nt mind Jones being the Raiders owner.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Voting for Cooler Master's Tower Mod contest has opened up. I would appreciate it if you guys head over and vote for David Cathey's awesome "Gigantea" mod. That is the centipede looking beast eating the MMRS reservoir mod I posted a while back.

http://bit.ly/TowerMod2016

Show him some love peoples


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Voting for Cooler Master's Tower Mod contest has opened up. I would appreciate it if you guys head over and vote for David Cathey's awesome "Gigantea" mod. That is the centipede looking beast eating the MMRS reservoir mod I posted a while back.
> 
> http://bit.ly/TowerMod2016
> 
> Show him some love peoples


Was his build a CM case to start with?

Cuz I'm seeing a crapton of CM cases and there are two that I would vote for in a pinch. The Vader and the Vaultboy themed cases are calling me out.









I will cast my vote when I have clearer info.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mystriss

mmm that's lovely news! Etching to silver sure would be easier than painting; I'm not entirely sure my old eyes can handle the miniature painting I did in my teens anymore heh

I'll be looking forward to das availability!


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Voting for Cooler Master's Tower Mod contest has opened up. I would appreciate it if you guys head over and vote for David Cathey's awesome "Gigantea" mod. That is the centipede looking beast eating the MMRS reservoir mod I posted a while back.
> 
> http://bit.ly/TowerMod2016
> 
> Show him some love peoples


In case anyone wants to see the birth of this ... http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=298961


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> In case anyone wants to see the birth of this ... http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=298961


Just an insane amount of work and fabrication skill went into that beast.


----------



## VSG

That's really amazing, guy's got my vote


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Voting for Cooler Master's Tower Mod contest has opened up. I would appreciate it if you guys head over and vote for David Cathey's awesome "Gigantea" mod. That is the centipede looking beast eating the MMRS reservoir mod I posted a while back.
> 
> http://bit.ly/TowerMod2016
> 
> Show him some love peoples
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case anyone wants to see the birth of this ... http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=298961
Click to expand...

Thanks ruffhi! +Rep to you!









After slowly going through his build log I can confidently say the gentleman deserves the votes.Chopping up three CM Elite 130 cases, takes a crapton of intestinal fortitude.









Can't believe that he's not gotten all the votes tbh. Seems that a lot of people simply went with the case that struck their fancy.









Either that or people still like seeing a pure case modded rather than a few cases modded into a sheer work of art. I'm a work of art kind of guy so the choice was clear once I knew that he kept to the manufacturer's cases.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

There is another section (scratch builds) ... he might have done better there. The mad scientist looks to have this in hand with those crazy tube runs (yay Australia!).


----------



## Master Chicken

Apparently you have to be on Facebook to vote. I'm out.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> There is another section (scratch builds) ... he might have done better there. The mad scientist looks to have this in hand with those crazy tube runs (yay Australia!).


From what I can see, Cyber is running away with things. Though I honestly have no idea why. The exterior work looks great but there aren't enough interior shots to warrant that many votes imho.

Unless dude has over a hunnert fB accounts anyway.







lol

I take it back Master of Dimension is the leader with 149 votes thus far. Which is fine but not even on par with Gigantea.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Sometimes it is a popularity contest and not so much the work itself I think. End of the day Dave knows what he is capable of. For what it is worth I have a TON of respect for his work.

For all of the entrants as it is not easy putting yourself out there like that.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sometimes it is a popularity contest and not so much the work itself I think. End of the day Dave knows what he is capable of. For what it is worth I have a TON of respect for his work.
> 
> For all of the entrants as it is not easy putting yourself out there like that.


Totally agree. Though Dave has a better chance in the regular case category than the modified tbh. That Triceratops build has over 4k votes.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah--the Triceratops build is pretty insane. Might be a good thing Dave isn't in the custom class as that is a tough build to beat. In that group, my personal favorite is the Water Frame. Just really clean and mechanical and elegant. Personal preference / taste of course.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yeah--the Triceratops build is pretty insane. Might be a good thing Dave isn't in the custom class as that is a tough build to beat. In that group, my personal favorite is the Water Frame. Just really clean and mechanical and elegant. Personal preference / taste of course.


Mine too.









~Ceadder


----------



## TOOLP

Hi BoxGods,

i modeled these MMRS Parts in Sketchup, so i could plan out my System. Is it ok that i upload them to the 3D Warehouse, so other guys can use them too?

Greetings Flo


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> 
> 
> Hi BoxGods,
> 
> i modeled these MMRS Parts in Sketchup, so i could plan out my System. Is it ok that i upload them to the 3D Warehouse, so other guys can use them too?
> 
> Greetings Flo


Sure. Though you can download almost all of the parts from the link below. I just have not had time to upload all of them one at a time to the 3D warehouse. To label them all correctly and upload them one at a time would take half a day and I just suck at repetitive tasks like that sorry.

They also have "handles" to make snapping the parts together pretty fast/easy.

http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS_SU_PARTS.rar


----------



## BoxGods

For those of you wondering what the new molded white parts look like. Here is the molded SAP on the new vertical mount.



PPC'S should have them all up shortly


----------



## fast_fate

very nice !!!


----------



## paultoke

love it


----------



## BoxGods

I went ahead and put together a white and blue test part...I am warming up to the white a bit =)


----------



## paultoke

I like it a lot









I'm just about to start another build and i love the fill port.
Need to see if i can work one into the build.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> For those of you wondering what the new molded white parts look like. Here is the molded SAP on the new vertical mount.
> 
> 
> 
> PPC'S should have them all up shortly


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I went ahead and put together a white and blue test part...I am warming up to the white a bit =)


This white totally looks like marshmellows and makes me want to eat it!


----------



## Master Chicken

My Mercury S8 two tone came on Friday. It's Gunmetal outside and White inside. I'm really looking forward to using the White components. Do you guys make a UV CCFL kit?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes they do make UV CCFLs. You can find them at Performance-PCs.com

But to expedite things for you...

...*Click here* and you will be taken to a PPCs page with all the MMRS lighting possibilities they have on hand since I don't know what size you require.









~Ceadder


----------



## Master Chicken

Thanks. I was going by the sentence in the XR review that said "So far as we can tell all the CCFL lights are white and are fixed inside colored tubes." This is clearly not correct or perhaps he had pre-production samples to handle and wasn't aware of the UV, etc.

Thanks for the link. That's awesome ... huge selection.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Chicken*
> 
> Thanks. I was going by the sentence in the XR review that said "So far as we can tell all the CCFL lights are white and are fixed inside colored tubes." This is clearly not correct or perhaps he had pre-production samples to handle and wasn't aware of the UV, etc.
> 
> Thanks for the link. That's awesome ... huge selection.


You're welcome.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

They also just got in the CCFL Plugs. These are CCFL bulbs inside poly carbonate tubes that can be installed in any G 1/4 port so you have CCFL's INSIDE the reservoir. They also come in UV.

The colored lights--like red, blue, or green ARE white bulbs inside of colored tubes. We do them that way so you get brighter truer colors--red light instead of pink light for example.

Here is what the CCFL Plugs look like:


----------



## BoxGods

For those asking for dimensions on the new CCFL inverters--here ya go =)

Available in two and four bulb versions. Extruded aluminum body. Black plugs. They accept a SATA plug directly from your PSU so no weird pigtails or harnesses. They include a switch jumper--what that means is that out of the box the jumper is in place and the lights are controlled by your system PSU--they come on when you start your machine and go off when you shut down. For those who want to add a remotely located switch to turn the lights on and off--like on a front panel bay device or a rocker switch--whatever--you remove the jumper and install a switch cable. I didn't include the cable or switch since everyone likes different switches.


----------



## Mega Man

And what are the dimensions of the mounting holes?


----------



## Bear907

I've been lurking on performance pcs new products page for a few weeks waiting for those plugs to drop. Those pics look like 50mm size tubes. I'm hoping there are longer sizes as well yeah? You guys are putting out some great products. Thank you for that!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And what are the dimensions of the mounting holes?


They ship with hook and loop pads.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> I've been lurking on performance pcs new products page for a few weeks waiting for those plugs to drop. Those pics look like 50mm size tubes. I'm hoping there are longer sizes as well yeah? You guys are putting out some great products. Thank you for that!


Six sizes--shown below.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> They ship with hook and loop pads.
> Six sizes--shown below.


This is the best Led plug I seen so far!! Great product!!!!! Hope it just shines bright because this one could probably work for all reservoirs.

Sadly my new Alphacool reservoirs only have one inlet in the top, otherwise I would use these


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> This is the best Led plug I seen so far!! Great product!!!!! Hope it just shines bright because this one could probably work for all reservoirs.
> 
> Sadly my new Alphacool reservoirs only have one inlet in the top, otherwise I would use these


These are CCFL's not LED's.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And what are the dimensions of the mounting holes?
> 
> 
> 
> They ship with hook and loop pads.
Click to expand...

Yea. That's why I asked.. .. /poke
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> And what are the dimensions of the mounting holes?


I hope you know I am joking with you ..... mostly


----------



## Malum

Hey boxgod can you tell me the OD of those tubes of the Nice looking ccfl's ?

Btw I can't find either the ccfl's nor the inverters you've shown us on ppcs page......

Any idear as when that might be possible ?

I did however find an inverter from g-vans with 4 ports for lights. And in a nice Black anodized aluminium case ;-) but they are not in Stock yet either.... Maybe someone Heard you were to release such inverters and wanted to beat you to it...?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Hey boxgod can you tell me the OD of those tubes of the Nice looking ccfl's ?
> 
> Btw I can't find either the ccfl's nor the inverters you've shown us on ppcs page......
> 
> Any idear as when that might be possible ?
> 
> I did however find an inverter from g-vans with 4 ports for lights. And in a nice Black anodized aluminium case ;-) but they are not in Stock yet either.... Maybe someone Heard you were to release such inverters and wanted to beat you to it...?


Off the top of my head...I thin the tube is 7mm or 8mm OD.

PPCS has the CCFL Plugs now--they are likely just getting them up on their site still. The inverters are in transit (shipping) so maybe a week more.


----------



## Malum

Okay thanks
I'll keep an eye out for them then


----------



## Bear907

Looks like the white couplers and caps are up on performance-pcs. Pretty much only thing left to buy for my build is the ccfl plugs and inverters. They're looking good. Can't wait to pick up a few.


----------



## Malum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> Looks like the white couplers and caps are up on performance-pcs. Pretty much only thing left to buy for my build is the ccfl plugs and inverters. They're looking good. Can't wait to pick up a few.


Leave a few for me please


----------



## Wolfsbora

Guess who is the special guest on tonight's Overclock.net Podcast: LIVE episode....



That's right!! Your very own @BoxGods will be appearing on the show tonight. Check it out live on twitch.tv/overclocktv at 9pm EST tonight!


----------



## Bear907

The CCFL plugs are up on performance pcs, but not the inverters yet. Was hoping for some orange, but I think I'll roll with either UV or white and look at a coolant dye instead.


----------



## BoxGods

Sadly it is hard to get resellers to carry orange...just doesn't sell well enough =(

Everyone wants red/blue/green...in that order.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sadly it is hard to get resellers to carry orange...just doesn't sell well enough =(
> 
> Everyone wants red/blue/green...in that order.


ASUS is looking to change that though. Since they're going away from the Red and Black theme to more orange. SO... hopefully it starts a trend like the original RoG Red did.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sadly it is hard to get resellers to carry orange...just doesn't sell well enough =(
> 
> Everyone wants red/blue/green...in that order.
> 
> 
> 
> ASUS is looking to change that though. Since they're going away from the Red and Black theme to more orange. SO... hopefully it starts a trend like the original RoG Red did.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Well it's all going RGB anyway, thats the next big thing, its going to be RGB hell soon with mobos and gpu's! And I assume red/blue/green is the order after silver/black/white?


----------



## ruffhi

The first thing that I purchased for my new computer build was my Monsoon Reservoir back in early January of this year.

I have finally got it installed ...


----------



## BoxGods

Woot for ruffhi









What did you think of the FDP cap and will it co under the top cover or on the outside? I am also curious what the distance is from the bottom of the bottom cap to the top of the divider shelf?


----------



## Radnad

After the family is all to sleep, it's MeMRS time, ahhhhh...


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Woot for ruffhi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What did you think of the FDP cap and will it co under the top cover or on the outside? I am also curious what the distance is from the bottom of the bottom cap to the top of the divider shelf?


The FDP cap makes the whole set up very stable. It locks everything together. This is good for stability but bad if I need to strip it down.

I haven't filled the loop yet so that part of the 'what do you think of the FDP cap' remains outstanding.

The S5 CaseLabs case has internal and external covers. The pictures shown are _without_ the outer shell. My top has a window (as do both sides) so you will see the white on black at the top and good vision of the reservoir at the sides.

The distance of the little 'foot' is 33mm. It is spanned by the thread part of a Barrow pass-through (I put the pass-through in 'up side down'), a 5mm male to male, a 15mm extension and a 7.5mm extension (~6 + 5 + 15 + 7.5 = 32.5mm).

The cap at the bottom is a 3-port cap.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> The FDP cap makes the whole set up very stable. It locks everything together. This is good for stability but bad if I need to strip it down.
> 
> I haven't filled the loop yet so that part of the 'what do you think of the FDP cap' remains outstanding.
> 
> The S5 CaseLabs case has internal and external covers. The pictures shown are _without_ the outer shell. My top has a window (as do both sides) so you will see the white on black at the top and good vision of the reservoir at the sides.
> 
> The distance of the little 'foot' is 33mm. It is spanned by the thread part of a Barrow pass-through (I put the pass-through in 'up side down'), a 5mm male to male, a 15mm extension and a 7.5mm extension (~6 + 5 + 15 + 7.5 = 32.5mm).
> 
> The cap at the bottom is a 3-port cap.


I asked about the distance because I was wondering id you could have used another 50mm of reservoir tube and a coupler with mating kit, or another FDP-BASE. Not that there is anything at all wrong with the way you did it--and only you know what you have planned of course. Just another possibility that would have increased reservoir volume. Lots of options =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> After the family is all to sleep, it's MeMRS time, ahhhhh...


Rum and coke or whiskey and coke?

Building sessions like that--especially with a buddy or two mixed in--is how I know peanut butter or toothpaste do not make good thermal compounds for your CPU


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I asked about the distance because I was wondering id you could have used another 50mm of reservoir tube and a coupler with mating kit, or another FDP-BASE. Not that there is anything at all wrong with the way you did it--and only you know what you have planned of course. Just another possibility that would have increased reservoir volume. Lots of options =)


I did look at that option a few times but it would have pushed it too far into that ledge ... and into space that I needed for my 2 x D5 pumps.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> After the family is all to sleep, it's MeMRS time, ahhhhh...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rum and coke or whiskey and coke?
> 
> Building sessions like that--especially with a buddy or two mixed in--is how I know peanut butter or toothpaste do not make good thermal compounds for your CPU
Click to expand...

Crown and Coke, and I always thought toothpaste was effective!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Finally getting down to building (after a whole gen has passed me by). I plan on using my monsoon res horizontal like in the pic. Pics and specs of the build are in the watercooling forum. Recon I could run the return into a low port on one end and exit on one of the side entry ports on the other pushing it up to the 2nd res???

http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0644_zpsm7y2hh6t.jpg.html


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Finally getting down to building (after a whole gen has passed me by). I plan on using my monsoon res horizontal like in the pic. Pics and specs of the build are in the watercooling forum. Recon I could run the return into a low port on one end and exit on one of the side entry ports on the other pushing it up to the 2nd res???
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0644_zpsm7y2hh6t.jpg.html


I am not really clear on what you are asking?


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Finally getting down to building (after a whole gen has passed me by). I plan on using my monsoon res horizontal like in the pic. Pics and specs of the build are in the watercooling forum. Recon I could run the return into a low port on one end and exit on one of the side entry ports on the other pushing it up to the 2nd res???
> 
> http://s117.photobucket.com/user/looker12/media/IMG_0644_zpsm7y2hh6t.jpg.html


Let me see if i understand correctly - you essentially want the flow to fill the horizontal res, and then have the flow exit the res and go up to the second res. My common sense says this will not end well....but I have never tried it, nor do I know for a fact that it won't be just fine. In other words.....I have no idea.


----------



## Bear907

It should work just fine. The horizontal res will basically just act like a fat tube and be 100% full. The vertical small res is where the air gap would be. You'd just want to be sure the pump is fed from the small res and the pump should be lower then the res.

if you only wanted to use the horizontal MMRS, you'd need to make sure it stays pretty topped off or you risk the pump not being fed enough. This is what I'll be doing in my sig build log. It works fine, but you need to pay careful attention on a fresh loop fill until all the air is primed out of the loop. Running a dry pump will burn it out pretty quick.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Let me see if i understand correctly - you essentially want the flow to fill the horizontal res, and then have the flow exit the res and go up to the second res. My common sense says this will not end well....but I have never tried it, nor do I know for a fact that it won't be just fine. In other words.....I have no idea.


That's the question.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Let me see if i understand correctly - you essentially want the flow to fill the horizontal res, and then have the flow exit the res and go up to the second res. My common sense says this will not end well....but I have never tried it, nor do I know for a fact that it won't be just fine. In other words.....I have no idea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's the question.
Click to expand...

As I mentioned in your other thread, I would seriously consider ditching the EK res, I'm still not sure what the purpose of both of them are, your just complicating and muddying the loop, and the tubing will be a nightmare, not to mention if the performance of flow will be any good. Put the MMRS on the back wall and call it awesome. The MMRS is way better looking and better quality than the EK res. You have that really nice case and need to compliment the aesthetics of it, not try to cram a square peg in a round hole imo.


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> As I mentioned in your other thread, I would seriously consider ditching the EK res, I'm still not sure what the purpose of both of them are, your just complicating and muddying the loop, and the tubing will be a nightmare, not to mention if the performance of flow will be any good. Put the MMRS on the back wall and call it awesome. The MMRS is way better looking and better quality than the EK res. You have that really nice case and need to compliment the aesthetics of it, not try to cram a square peg in a round hole imo.


I agree with 100% of what you have said here.


----------



## Ceadderman

I concur with the above statement. Now if the flow were reversed, I could see using the EK to feed the MMRS but since this is the other way round I see absolutely no need to use the EK Res.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

How about using the new rad mounts to mount the reservoir vertical behind the radiator? Would bolt right onto those fans as sweet as you please =)


----------



## Bear907

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> How about using the new rad mounts to mount the reservoir vertical behind the radiator? Would bolt right onto those fans as sweet as you please =)


Pics, or they don't exist!









I've been putting off making a bracket myself as I know your design will be a bit more professional compared to mine lol.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> Pics, or they don't exist!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been putting off making a bracket myself as I know your design will be a bit more professional compared to mine lol.


For 140mm or 120mm? And how soon could you actually use it if I sent you a production sample for testing purposes?


----------



## Bear907

120mm fans x2, x2 rads. I'm waiting for the CaseLabs case to ship still but I have everything else on the bench already waiting. Once the case arrives, it's full steam ahead, but I have the fans, rad, and res now to test with. The res is x2 100 mm tubes with a coupler, end cap, and d5 pump housing. I'll be mounting it horizontal across a 240 mm rad. I'm actually doing this twice side by side coming out of the top of case.- think blowers coming out of a hot rod engine. I've done a couple test brackets that work ok, but they don't look great.

I've been toying with different ways to mount it on either end with the whole middle being open. I just bought a pair of your current mounts to try and combine those with the aluminum brackets I've got to mod something together. If you've got a more elegant way to accomplish it, I'll gladly test it for you.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> It should work just fine. The horizontal res will basically just act like a fat tube and be 100% full. The vertical small res is where the air gap would be. You'd just want to be sure the pump is fed from the small res and the pump should be lower then the res.
> 
> if you only wanted to use the horizontal MMRS, you'd need to make sure it stays pretty topped off or you risk the pump not being fed enough. This is what I'll be doing in my sig build log. It works fine, but you need to pay careful attention on a fresh loop fill until all the air is primed out of the loop. Running a dry pump will burn it out pretty quick.


I was hoping someone would see it the way I do. Recon the pump will have enough ponies to push it up to the second res???
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> How about using the new rad mounts to mount the reservoir vertical behind the radiator? Would bolt right onto those fans as sweet as you please =)


I would do that but it will not fit vertically ANYWHERE. It has to be horizontal. If it were small enough to mount to the front rad the bends would be almost impossible. I'd have to fitting the whole area. Do any of you think that if I mounted the MMRS like in the picture, would the pump push the water up to the EK res. I really want it to work the way I have it laid out, I could do without the ek res. If I deleted the ek res and just went with a horizontal MMRS would it act like a normal res? What position would you mount it for it to be fillable, drainable? The side ports when mounted horizontally would be the highest point so should I just come in low on the opposite end and exit a side port pointing straight up on the other? There are two side ports side by side so if I used one as an exit to return the fluid to the pump would I be able to just unscrew the cap in hole beside it and fill it. I realize the loop will have to be initially filled from the 360 up top, but how do you configure the in and out on a horizontal MMRS to make it effective as a res. I know standing it up would be ideal but it's just too large and I really intended it to be horizontal in the design to cover up the sound and daughter card. Which end would you put the side entry end of the MMRS which also has three end holes and which of the holes would you use to make it effective as a reservoir. This would be without the EK. I hope you understand what I'm trying to convey. Does the flow need to enter at the lowest port and exit from the highest or come in the highest and leave from the lowest port I guess is the question.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> It should work just fine. The horizontal res will basically just act like a fat tube and be 100% full. The vertical small res is where the air gap would be. You'd just want to be sure the pump is fed from the small res and the pump should be lower then the res.
> 
> if you only wanted to use the horizontal MMRS, you'd need to make sure it stays pretty topped off or you risk the pump not being fed enough. This is what I'll be doing in my sig build log. It works fine, but you need to pay careful attention on a fresh loop fill until all the air is primed out of the loop. Running a dry pump will burn it out pretty quick.
> 
> 
> 
> I was hoping someone would see it the way I do. Recon the pump will have enough ponies to push it up to the second res???
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> How about using the new rad mounts to mount the reservoir vertical behind the radiator? Would bolt right onto those fans as sweet as you please =)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would do that but it will not fit vertically ANYWHERE. It has to be horizontal. If it were small enough to mount to the front rad the bends would be almost impossible. I'd have to fitting the whole area. Do any of you think that if I mounted the MMRS like in the picture, would the pump push the water up to the EK res. I really want it to work the way I have it laid out, I could do without the ek res. If I deleted the ek res and just went with a horizontal MMRS would it act like a normal res? What position would you mount it for it to be fillable, drainable? The side ports when mounted horizontally would be the highest point so should I just come in low on the opposite end and exit a side port pointing straight up on the other? There are two side ports side by side so if I used one as an exit to return the fluid to the pump would I be able to just unscrew the cap in hole beside it and fill it. I realize the loop will have to be initially filled from the 360 up top, but how do you configure the in and out on a horizontal MMRS to make it effective as a res. I know standing it up would be ideal but it's just too large and I really intended it to be horizontal in the design to cover up the sound and daughter card. Which end would you put the side entry end of the MMRS which also has three end holes and which of the holes would you use to make it effective as a reservoir. This would be without the EK. I hope you understand what I'm trying to convey. Does the flow need to enter at the lowest port and exit from the highest or come in the highest and leave from the lowest port I guess is the question.
Click to expand...

First of all, no it's probably not going to work, your flow will be killed trying to go uphill from a horizontal res into a vertical res, so that's why we are all trying to say not to do it.

Second, you said several times the MMRS is too big, but you do realize its a modular res and you can buy a shorter tube for it and make it any size you want? (I've rebuilt mine 4 times with different caps and tubes until I finally go the exact res I needed/wanted. It's the whole concept behind the design of the MMRS).

Third, If you pulled out the EK res and kept the MMRS horizontal on the PSU cover then, yes, that would work because the MMRS would be feeding the pump downhill. There would be no need to fill from the top rad because you can put a fitting and piece of tube on any port of the MMRS and fill it up, then plug it when done.


----------



## Ceadderman

@19DELTASNAFU...

Hadda go back and look at your build.

Honestly where you have the MMRS oriented to the pump, that's all you need for your loop. The MMRS is high enough that it will supply your pump with the coolant stored in it without issue.

If you were to supply the pump with the EK alone that too would work.

However, pulling cooling up only works in tubing. You'd more than likely put a huge dead spot in your loop if you were to try doing what you want/wanted to do. Meaning that although the MMRS would supply coolant, it would cause drag on the flow and over work your pump. Your pump is the most important bit in your loop, I should think that you would like to have it work for quite a few years. Keep in mind that gravity works against flow. Think of it like a deep well of clean drinking water. If your pump is having to work harder to get the water up the pipe, it will eventually burn out, no matter how much liquid there is priming and lubricating it. My advice is simply to shelve the dual Res unless they are parallel to each other and both supplying the pump.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> 120mm fans x2, x2 rads. I'm waiting for the CaseLabs case to ship still but I have everything else on the bench already waiting. Once the case arrives, it's full steam ahead, but I have the fans, rad, and res now to test with. The res is x2 100 mm tubes with a coupler, end cap, and d5 pump housing. I'll be mounting it horizontal across a 240 mm rad. I'm actually doing this twice side by side coming out of the top of case.- think blowers coming out of a hot rod engine. I've done a couple test brackets that work ok, but they don't look great.
> 
> I've been toying with different ways to mount it on either end with the whole middle being open. I just bought a pair of your current mounts to try and combine those with the aluminum brackets I've got to mod something together. If you've got a more elegant way to accomplish it, I'll gladly test it for you.


I think I only have one of the 120mm mounts. I will get to the shop today to take pictures and double check how many I have.


----------



## Bear907

I'll help however I can.


----------



## BoxGods

I am not clear on why you would end up with more bends or excessive fittings if you rad mounted it vertically? The side facing ports end up pointing directly back towards the area you want to reach, (motherboard, video cards, etc.).

If it were me (and obviously it is your build and your choice) I would look at having the reservoir mount to the top of the case with an FDP and external fill port cap (this looks awesome AND makes filling / draining easy) then if you want you could add a rad mount near the bottom...though that is really not needed as the FDP mounting is very secure.

One other thing to remember as a general point of reference. Where your fill or drain ports are located when the build is finished is not really a fixed point in space. Filling, topping off, or draining the loop is something you are likely only going to do two or three times a year, so there is no reason the case can't be rotated onto its front/back/side as needed to alter high and low points.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> I'll help however I can.


I appreciate that, but the goal here is for me to help YOU =)

Even if I only have one of the 120mm brackets, you could use it to get going while you wait for your case. Test fit and plot plan out your loop. Then add a second bracket when they ship.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

If you mean hanging it from the top 360 below the fans I'll take one today. I think my build would represent Monsoon awesomely. It is the FIRST Luxe case with the cage removed and painstakingly reinforced with 1/2 inch plexi. You can stand it on it's corner with all components inside and it will not flex one mm. I have spared no expense on this build. Like John Hammond said. hehe. This computer is going to make it's rounds. It will be at Egleston Children's Hospital with an HTC Vive for a couple weeks around Christmas. The VA hospital with the Vive in ATL. etc etc. I'm wanting the visibility of the fluid to be prominent because at those times it will have Aurora in it, so you can see the "more res the betterf" attitude I'm trying to achieve. I would really like to put two horizontals in there but mounting the one up top seems to be impossible unless you have a link to the the parts at PPCs. I am in a wheelchair myself and the Vibe does have "chair" mode. We are working to put the sensors on light stands for ease of set up and take down. If I could (NO STOCK) I would order the GTX 1080 with the HDMI outs for the front of the case, but for now the Gigabyte Xtreme 980tis will have to do.

Back to the res set up. If you think about it the sheer volume of coolant above the MMRS should create enough pressure (which would be basically nil) to push the coolant up to the 2nd res IMHO. A vertically mounted radiator with the ports at the bottom would create a much greater strain on the pump. My pump will only have to "push" coolant through the 240 in the front and then up to the 360 overhead and the rest is basically gravity except for the 6 inches of PETG up to the 2nd res. I think it will work after consulting with some other moders. The pump I have will fill three 150 mm reservoirs stacked vertically from the bottom up so I don't see what you guys are seeing at all. What if it were a 560 radiator, no one would blink an eye. Thanks for everyone's input.


----------



## eucalyptus

I am the worst graphics designer on this earth!! I am worse at painting and art than England in the football game vs Iceland...









I should probably delete win32 folder









For the new EV2 fittings I am looking for something nice to etch them with. I want a leaf, but I can't even draw a square box or a circle.

Something like this, or with 3 leaves.


I do have both Photoshop CS6 and Adobe illustrator CS6.

Any tips & tricks?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I am the worst graphics designer on this earth!! I am worse at painting and art than England in the football game vs Iceland...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should probably delete win32 folder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the new EV2 fittings I am looking for something nice to etch them with. I want a leaf, but I can't even draw a square box or a circle.
> 
> Something like this, or with 3 leaves.
> 
> 
> I do have both Photoshop CS6 and Adobe illustrator CS6.
> 
> Any tips & tricks?


It is all about preperation...first dry the leaves. Then roll them up in paper...get a lighter...

Said another way: I have ZERO artistic ability myself. Unless it can be done in engineering software or with a body grinder and a torch, I am lost. On the plus side there are a TON of illustrator tutorials on you tube.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wolfsbora*
> 
> Guess who is the special guest on tonight's Overclock.net Podcast: LIVE episode....
> 
> 
> 
> That's right!! Your very own @BoxGods will be appearing on the show tonight. Check it out live on twitch.tv/overclocktv at 9pm EST tonight!


Which episode number was this?


----------



## Benjiw

Is there a way to melt the glue on the collars? I have an air bubble that I've missed or I might of not used enough glue so now its leaking out the collar gap. Please help ASAP I need my PC badly.

EDIT:
I managed to suck glue into the gap between the collar and the tube to seal it but then the UV rays went to sleep, I now have another leak however on my gpu to cpu fitting but its probably due to too much strain because of how they both line up and the type of look I'm going for. I'll try re-gluing it and make do but I'm not 100% yet.


----------



## BoxGods

Having a few bubbles in there is not uncommon and they are almost never an issue--unless it huge. I have had nubs in the shop wit so many little bubbles it looks like swiss cheese and they still didn't leak.

Just "stick" with it and you will get it sorted.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Having a few bubbles in there is not uncommon and they are almost never an issue--unless it huge. I have had nubs in the shop wit so many little bubbles it looks like swiss cheese and they still didn't leak.
> 
> Just "stick" with it and you will get it sorted.


I'm just a little worried about the last tube I don't understand why it leaked. I'll add more glue see if that fixes it.


----------



## BoxGods

Just be sure it is actually the collar leaking and not a seal / O-ring issue. I think people that are not familiar with bonding on the collars have a tiny little doubt in the back of their mind so if they have a leak it just MUST be the collar--sort of like profiling if that makes sense. Gravity and wicking can cause the drip to happen away from the actual leak location.

I am not saying it is impossible to make a mistake when bonding the collars on of course as it can happen. Just that it actually not all that easy to get them wrong. It is much easier to have some debris (think cat hair or eyelash) corrupting the seal at either the O-ring or the flat rubber seal on the bottom of the collar. Also, if your tube (and collar) do not hit the fitting fairly close to square you can get uneven pressure mapping and that can cause an issue.

Just take your time, look really closely and figure out what the real issue is.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm just a little worried about the last tube I don't understand why it leaked. I'll add more glue see if that fixes it.


Just a helpful hint (I hope) you can use one of the larger O-rings like come with the old economy fittings instead of the flt ones that come with the fittings!! and this will seal better if everything is not perfect. I have some I can send you for the cost of shipping if you want to try this??


----------



## seross69

I will be listing a couple of boxes 12 fittings of the economy matte black 1/2 by 5/8 tomorrow so look for the ad in the market place!!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Okay so I am going to pull a page from someone else
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Like they said since this has pretty much become defacto monsoon club. I am curious if anyone has tried ro knows if I can use a Monsoon 90 degree light port fitting as a T. The way I would use it is with the cylinder going up and down (so the rotary included on it would go to the side).
> 
> The top would have a QDC, the bottom would be to a fill port, and the rotary that is attached to the fitting would go to a valve which on the other side would be another fitting doing the same.
> 
> The idea is below the fillpotrts is the loop, the QDCs will connect to GPUs and to CPU/MB ect. (there will be this setup on both sides). If the GPU is connected the valve will be off, if the GPU is not connected the Drain valve will be opened and the removal of the QDCs will cause the water to loop around. .
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK the lightport will work perfectly as a T, as it has G1/4" threads on both ends, and both arms are even the same size, so you can put whatever fittings you want (or the intended LED plug) on either end. I have used them with temp sensors instead of the led plug and they work fine.
Click to expand...

Was this ever confirmed by @BoxGods? I can't seem to find it if it was. Also, is the lightport made in 1/2"? I can only find 3/4" and 5/8" on PPCS.


----------



## red eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just be sure it is actually the collar leaking and not a seal / O-ring issue. I think people that are not familiar with bonding on the collars have a tiny little doubt in the back of their mind so if they have a leak it just MUST be the collar--sort of like profiling if that makes sense. Gravity and wicking can cause the drip to happen away from the actual leak location.
> 
> I am not saying it is impossible to make a mistake when bonding the collars on of course as it can happen. Just that it actually not all that easy to get them wrong. It is much easier to have some debris (think cat hair or eyelash) corrupting the seal at either the O-ring or the flat rubber seal on the bottom of the collar. Also, if your tube (and collar) do not hit the fitting fairly close to square you can get uneven pressure mapping and that can cause an issue.
> 
> Just take your time, look really closely and figure out what the real issue is.


twice this has happened three times. Twice on the same tube each end, res to soft tube while sorting out wiring and cleaning filter. And on cpu to soft tube join, this one was a squirted happened while gaming make sure to key the surfaces or the glue won't stick, specially if it's a hard line joined to soft tube.

Just like to add that there is nothing wrong with the product, the idea is sound. I know that smooth serfaces need keying. I missed that trying to get my of back together.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *red eye*
> 
> twice this has happened three times. Twice on the same tube each end, res to soft tube while sorting out wiring and cleaning filter. And on cpu to soft tube join, this one was a squirted happened while gaming make sure to key the surfaces or the glue won't stick, specially if it's a hard line joined to soft tube.
> 
> Just like to add that there is nothing wrong with the product, the idea is sound. I know that smooth serfaces need keying. I missed that trying to get my of back together.


What is that device it's sitting on out of interest? And I'm going to abandon that bend when I can find some collars to replace them with but there seems to be a complete lack of stock here in the UK for the 13mm collars?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Was this ever confirmed by @BoxGods? I can't seem to find it if it was. Also, is the lightport made in 1/2"? I can only find 3/4" and 5/8" on PPCS.


It will work but because of the recess on the plug side of the rotary, you will need to double up on the O-rings.

No. We do not make the Light Port Rotaries in 1/2" OD as there simply is not room for the second port on the 45-degree fitting.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *red eye*
> 
> twice this has happened three times. Twice on the same tube each end, res to soft tube while sorting out wiring and cleaning filter. And on cpu to soft tube join, this one was a squirted happened while gaming make sure to key the surfaces or the glue won't stick, specially if it's a hard line joined to soft tube.
> 
> Just like to add that there is nothing wrong with the product, the idea is sound. I know that smooth surfaces need keying. I missed that trying to get my of back together.


Not entirely sure what is being said here--likely it is a translation issue--but based on that picture I can say...if the surfaces you are trying to bond together are waxed like a mold or coated with oil this is exactly what you would expect for a result. Before you bond on the lock collars it is a best practice to wash both the lock collar and the end of the tube in hot soapy water and rinse them thoroughly. Then allow them to air dry for 5 or 10 minutes.

Do not use Windex or any cleaners normally used for cleaning glass. Plain old dish soap and hot water work best.

There is no need to "key" either the tube or the lock collar as the UV cure adhesive forms a chemical bond with the tube. They do however need to be clean and free of any oil or dirt from handling, so after you wash them avoid touching the cleaned surfaces.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not entirely sure what is being said here--likely it is a translation issue--but based on that picture I can say...if the surfaces you are trying to bond together are waxed like a mold or coated with oil this is exactly what you would expect for a result. Before you bond on the lock collars it is a best practice to wash both the lock collar and the end of the tube in hot soapy water and rinse them thoroughly. Then allow them to air dry for 5 or 10 minutes.
> 
> Do not use Windex or any cleaners normally used for cleaning glass. Plain old dish soap and hot water work best.
> 
> There is no need to "key" either the tube or the lock collar as the UV cure adhesive forms a chemical bond with the tube. They do however need to be clean and free of any oil or dirt from handling, so after you wash them avoid touching the cleaned surfaces.


I wiped mine with a bit of kitchen towel and it worked fine, my issue was using too much glue because I cut the nib on the applicator wrong (hole too large) then only applying it to the collar. Again I've not fixed the issue with the remaining tube I need collars and more tubing for that.


----------



## red eye

@ box gods
It's not a translation issue more of a little keypad, no mouse and a bit of auto correct issue.
I didt wash the collars but I used dish soap and a little water on the insert so it was all over my hands and the tube.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Was this ever confirmed by @BoxGods? I can't seem to find it if it was. Also, is the lightport made in 1/2"? I can only find 3/4" and 5/8" on PPCS.
> 
> 
> 
> It will work but because of the recess on the plug side of the rotary, you will need to double up on the O-rings.
> 
> No. We do not make the Light Port Rotaries in 1/2" OD as there simply is not room for the second port on the 45-degree fitting.
Click to expand...

Gotcha. Thanks for the explanation.


----------



## red eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Is there a way to melt the glue on the collars? I have an air bubble that I've missed or I might of not used enough glue so now its leaking out the collar gap. Please help ASAP I need my PC badly.
> 
> EDIT:
> I managed to suck glue into the gap between the collar and the tube to seal it but then the UV rays went to sleep, I now have another leak however on my gpu to cpu fitting but its probably due to too much strain because of how they both line up and the type of look I'm going for. I'll try re-gluing it and make do but I'm not 100% yet.


I got my tube measured and collard heated the tube and attached the tube, doing up the collars will pull the tube in to place. You won't end up with a perfectly straght tube. You don't want to heat it up to much just enough to bend it with a bit of force and were you want the kink.
It'll look something like this

And that device is an inspection lamp


----------



## ruffhi

First Bend Attempt ...

Any feedback? One thing I noted is that the insert did have some play in the tube. Everything is Monsoon (tube, bending kit, etc).






















*Edit*: The hard tube is 12.45mm external (sounds like 1/2" to me) and 9.5mm internal. The rubber tube ia a little hard to get a measure on but it (max) 8.2mm.


----------



## Malum

@ruffhi

It looks like that your bending tube is too small. I know you've mentioned that it's all monsoon products and therefore should fit together. Personally I also used only monsoon products when I did my build, however I used the red kit(1/2-5/8) and my bending tube didn't have that much room when inserted to the petg tube. I believe your "space" between the bending tube and the inside "wall2 of your rigid tube may be a reason to the looks in your second picture.

The first picture it seem you "overbend" your 90 degree. And that seem to be because you didn't use the mandrell "correct". The only reason I see why your tube overbend using the mandrell is that you didn't make sure that the rigid tube was "following" the curve of the mandrell while bending it.
Kind of like "you were going too fast" to make a turn at a junktion. Meaning you went too far straight out, before you were able to actually turn right.... If that makes any sense...

Anyway reguarding tube bending just practice, practice... It will become easier as times go by, and soon you'll be mastering it to perfection









Good luck with your build..


----------



## ruffhi

Thx Malum ... I c&p'd your feedback to my thread.

I know exactly what you mean by 'missing the bend'. I have another few bends under my belt now and #2 was worse, #3 was about the same as #1 and #4 I am actually happy with.

I do need another silicone insert that fits(!).


----------



## BoxGods

The silicone bending rod should not be a tight fit and it is better if it isn't. If you have to sand on the silicone or oil it to get it in and out of the tube that leads to a lot of other issues. The example pictured in the green tube looks like it was not heated in a wide enough area along the tube, or the heated area was not centered on the bend. The silicone insert is soft--even if it was a tight fit incorrect temperature, uneven heating, incorrect location of heat application, incorrect bend speed, too mich pressure (pressing the tube into the mandrel too hard) etc. will cause issues because the insert can be easily deformed.

Bending tube is as much about feel and "hand skill" as anything else so there really isn't a substitute for practice. Get a few extra sticks of tube to practice on. Cut it into shorter pieces so it is easier to work with and see what is going on. Don't just keep doing the same things (heat time and area, bend speed, pressure, etc.) and expect a different / better result.

The reason I mention feel and hand skills is that there is no one EXACT formula. Like xx heat over xx area bent at xx speed with xx pressure. Some guys will prefer the tube slightly hotter and will bend a little faster with less pressure. Others might be more comfortable with less heat, slower bend speed, and more pressure. I have bent a fair amount of tube but I still do a few practice bends if I have not bent any tube in a month or two, or if I am using a new color or tube size or switching from acrylic to PETG etc.

Some common issues I see with new benders. Improperly prepared work area. Have everything set up and the area cleared of any obstacles--do a "cold" rehearsal of the actions you will take for the bend cycle to make sure everything is in place and there are no obstructions. Make sure you are applying the heat fairly close to where you will actually be bending and once you make the move from heat to mandrel don't dilly dick around. Being unsure where to heat is the number one cause of applying the heat to the wrong location on the tube. use a pencil (not a marker) and mark the center and each end of your bend. Be consistent with your marking habits so you can practice where you will heat in relation to your marks. Excessive force. Try to push and pull and press with as little pressure as will work. Almost everyone under heats the tube their first few practice bends and "cold" tube requires a lot more force. After they get the tube hot enough the inclination is to apply as much force as they did previously on the cold bends


----------



## BoxGods

I should also point out that a silicone bending rod that is a tight fit for a single bend becomes more and more unworkable with multiple bends in close proximity to each other. Our bending rods are not a stock off the shelf size. We have those extruded custom just for bending because stock sizes are way too tight.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx BoxGods for your posts. I watched and re-watched your bending videos. Someone else here actually mentioned that I over-heated. I have about 11 rods and I expect I only need about 1½ so I have more than enough to 'play' with. I'll keep cutting short runs and test bending.

BTW - I tried the pencil marking for the heating location and I couldn't readily see the pencil marks while heating. I might need a softer pencil.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx BoxGods for your posts. I watched and re-watched your bending videos. Someone else here actually mentioned that I over-heated. I have about 11 rods and I expect I only need about 1½ so I have more than enough to 'play' with. I'll keep cutting short runs and test bending.
> 
> BTW - I tried the pencil marking for the heating location and I couldn't readily see the pencil marks while heating. I might need a softer pencil.


A 2B rated pencil is perfect, you didn't over heat imo but to get the tube nice and soft before bending rotate it half as fast if you want to see how quick your tube is heating up it you put water in the tube it will start bubbling as it boils like I did when teaching myself. I didn't use the Monsoon bending tube I got one from somewhere else and it was slightly larger but it didn't stop kinking etc so I believe BoxGods when he says that the tube doesn't need to be the full bore size.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I should also point out that a silicone bending rod that is a tight fit for a single bend becomes more and more unworkable with multiple bends in close proximity to each other. Our bending rods are not a stock off the shelf size. We have those extruded custom just for bending because stock sizes are way too tight.


Oh god he's right, I broke some acrylic into my hand trying to remove the rod and I have a scar on my palm now, it took a good while to heat because it was a deep cut.


----------



## BoxGods

I was lucky to have some "old pro's" around to teach me how to bend tube. Guys who have worked in sign shops forever. Plastic tube is a walk in the park compared to some of the exotic glass tube they bend.


----------



## Bear907

Still haven't seen PPCS put up the inverters yet. Looking forward to getting one though as a sata connection will be much cleaner then having to add a 4 pin molex just for an inverter.

I picked up a couple of the new ccfl fittings. The engineering on them is pretty slick. They work quite well. I also picked up a darkside rigid LED strip in hopes of using the outer tube of the fitting for the water seal and just install an LED strip inside instead of a ccfl. At least for the darkside strips, the tube is just a hair too small in diameter to allow this mod - like 1mm too small. It is so close, but no go. You could certainly daisy chain single LED's and stuff them inside though. Just food for though if anyone was thinking along the same lines.


----------



## BoxGods

I can see LED's for the white tubes as those diffuse the light pretty evenly...

Be REALLY careful modding the CCFL plugs. On the plug end of the tube, there is an O-ring seal in a groove that seals to the side of the tube. The tube is then bonded into the brass plug body after that seal so the adhesive is not exposed to water. You can mod in a smaller tube but you would need to replace the O-ring with a thicker one to ensure a positive seal.

I would not do it that way personally. I would just replace the guts (the rigid LED strip). The cap screws off and the inside of the tube is open and right there. Pretty simple.


----------



## Bear907

That's basically what I was going to do. I installed the outer tube plug for the water seal, and was going to mod the LED strip to the replace the ccfl tube/wiring, but that brand of strip just doesn't fit that outer tube of the fitting. Other rigid led strips may, but the darkside ones are just a touch too big. I agree too, I wouldn't mess with that outer tube fitting at all or risk messing up the seal.


----------



## BoxGods

When I get time I will add an LED version of the plugs. Will be a while tho.


----------



## Radnad

I'm finally getting around to finishing my new Skylake build after tons of delays. Today I discovered two things with the MMRS while testing it with the pump and flow meter outside the case. It's just the res, pump, mechanical flow meter, and 2 pieces of tubing.

1. The recessed ports on the FDP are only big enough for a plug, is this by design? I know fittings aren't meant to fit but I planned to use an extender to connect the pump. The only way I could get it to work without leaking was to double up on the o-rings on the extender, but this left almost no thread and made it difficult to get it started. It is currently working as I intended, but it would be nice if the recess was a little wider to at least accommodate extenders, or maybe I'm just the only fool who will ever use it that way.

2. I have my res return line going into a coupler in the middle of the res. It is creating a massive vortex which I wasn't expecting. After completly filling up and bleeding all the air out the vortex is almost gone, but a tiny sliver still remains. Once I add the restriction of the blocks, radiators, and elbows it could slow the flow enough so the vortex is non-existent, does that seem logical or should I plan to figure out some kind of anti-cyclone device.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I'm finally getting around to finishing my new Skylake build after tons of delays. Today I discovered two things with the MMRS while testing it with the pump and flow meter outside the case. It's just the res, pump, mechanical flow meter, and 2 pieces of tubing.
> 
> 1. The recessed ports on the FDP are only big enough for a plug, is this by design? I know fittings aren't meant to fit but I planned to use an extender to connect the pump. The only way I could get it to work without leaking was to double up on the o-rings on the extender, but this left almost no thread and made it difficult to get it started. It is currently working as I intended, but it would be nice if the recess was a little wider to at least accommodate extenders, or maybe I'm just the only fool who will ever use it that way.
> 
> 2. I have my res return line going into a coupler in the middle of the res. It is creating a massive vortex which I wasn't expecting. After completly filling up and bleeding all the air out the vortex is almost gone, but a tiny sliver still remains. Once I add the restriction of the blocks, radiators, and elbows it could slow the flow enough so the vortex is non-existent, does that seem logical or should I plan to figure out some kind of anti-cyclone device.


1. The recess for the plug on the FDP is so it has a nice clean look as this part is used on the outside of the case probably 99% of the time. Sorry about that =( You could fairly easily increase the diameter of the recess with your dremel and a drum bit.

2. The anti-vortex tridents-the press in version, not the bolt on used with the TRP--can be installed in any of the molded parts. End Caps and couplers included. So you can use one in your coupler and it will kill any vortex resulting from a side facing inlet.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 2. The anti-vortex tridents-the press in version, not the bolt on used with the TRP--can be installed in any of the molded parts. End Caps and couplers included. So you can use one in your coupler and it will kill any vortex resulting from a side facing inlet.


In any coupler? That is good to know because my in-take port is in the middle of my res and a vortex was one issue that was concerning me.

I looked on PPCs and found that they are part of the pump end cap item and also the mating block but I didn't see them for sale stand-a-lone.

Should they be a stand-a-lone item?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm finally getting around to finishing my new Skylake build after tons of delays. Today I discovered two things with the MMRS while testing it with the pump and flow meter outside the case. It's just the res, pump, mechanical flow meter, and 2 pieces of tubing.
> 
> 1. The recessed ports on the FDP are only big enough for a plug, is this by design? I know fittings aren't meant to fit but I planned to use an extender to connect the pump. The only way I could get it to work without leaking was to double up on the o-rings on the extender, but this left almost no thread and made it difficult to get it started. It is currently working as I intended, but it would be nice if the recess was a little wider to at least accommodate extenders, or maybe I'm just the only fool who will ever use it that way.
> 
> 2. I have my res return line going into a coupler in the middle of the res. It is creating a massive vortex which I wasn't expecting. After completly filling up and bleeding all the air out the vortex is almost gone, but a tiny sliver still remains. Once I add the restriction of the blocks, radiators, and elbows it could slow the flow enough so the vortex is non-existent, does that seem logical or should I plan to figure out some kind of anti-cyclone device.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. The recess for the plug on the FDP is so it has a nice clean look as this part is used on the outside of the case probably 99% of the time. Sorry about that =( You could fairly easily increase the diameter of the recess with your dremel and a drum bit.
> 
> 2. The anti-vortex tridents-the press in version, not the bolt on used with the TRP--can be installed in any of the molded parts. End Caps and couplers included. So you can use one in your coupler and it will kill any vortex resulting from a side facing inlet.
Click to expand...

No worries about the FDP, I figured it was by design and I was the only weirdo that would try to use something other than a plug. I thought about milling out the recess a little, but doubling the o-rings seems to have worked well, leak tested overnight with no problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 2. The anti-vortex tridents-the press in version, not the bolt on used with the TRP--can be installed in any of the molded parts. End Caps and couplers included. So you can use one in your coupler and it will kill any vortex resulting from a side facing inlet.
> 
> 
> 
> In any coupler? That is good to know because my in-take port is in the middle of my res and a vortex was one issue that was concerning me.
> 
> I looked on PPCs and found that they are part of the pump end cap item and also the mating block but I didn't see them for sale stand-a-lone.
> 
> Should they be a stand-a-lone item?
Click to expand...

Are the tridents supposed to be sold separately? I have no problems buy the mating kit to get the trident if I need to, but would rather just have the trident.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> No worries about the FDP, I figured it was by design and I was the only weirdo that would try to use something other than a plug. I thought about milling out the recess a little, but doubling the o-rings seems to have worked well, leak tested overnight with no problems.
> Are the tridents supposed to be sold separately? I have no problems buy the mating kit to get the trident if I need to, but would rather just have the trident.


Actually, I meant to package them in stand alone two packs and just plain forgot. I will add them but it will take a while for them to show up at resellers as they will be little parts that are added to bigger orders because of shipping costs.

If I had any here I would just send you one...but I don't. Sorry about that.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Actually, I meant to package them in stand alone two packs and just plain forgot. I will add them but *it will take a while for them to show up at resellers* as they will be little parts that are added to bigger orders because of shipping costs.


Speaking of re-sellers....was it OCUK that committed to stocking MMRS inventory








I checked their site yesterday with "MMRS" and 'Monsoon" searches that came up with no MMRS items.

Or was it another site that committed for Europe ?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> No worries about the FDP, I figured it was by design and I was the only weirdo that would try to use something other than a plug. I thought about milling out the recess a little, but doubling the o-rings seems to have worked well, leak tested overnight with no problems.
> Are the tridents supposed to be sold separately? I have no problems buy the mating kit to get the trident if I need to, but would rather just have the trident.
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, I meant to package them in stand alone two packs and just plain forgot. I will add them but it will take a while for them to show up at resellers as they will be little parts that are added to bigger orders because of shipping costs.
> 
> If I had any here I would just send you one...but I don't. Sorry about that.
Click to expand...

Again, no worries. I have no problem getting the mating kit for the trident.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Speaking of re-sellers....was it OCUK that committed to stocking MMRS inventory
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I checked their site yesterday with "MMRS" and 'Monsoon" searches that came up with no MMRS items.
> 
> Or was it another site that committed for Europe ?


Also, seems like Caseking broke their co-operation with Monsoon since they are ALL sold-out and not stocking up anymore. And the few things they have left, like orange tubes are selling very cheap just to clear the shelves...

Only the US who sells Monsoon


----------



## BoxGods

Case King has ordered MMRS and it is on the way actually.


----------



## ruffhi

Well ... it seems that I will definitely be putting in an order for a vortex calming trident ...


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Well ... it seems that I will definitely be putting in an order for a vortex calming trident ...


That is one heavy vortex. I am running the same setup, excepting with the D5 on the res at the bottom. I do get a small vortex with the pump over ~3600 rpm, but it does not even dip into the bottom half of the res. And my pump never sees that kind of speed unless I do it intentionally, so.....


----------



## ruffhi

I am still trying to figure our my pump's rpm. I have an Aquaero installed but I am a rank beginner at this stuff.


----------



## BoxGods

As vortexes go that one is actually pretty awesome. I know people who have tried to get one that cool looking to form (for aesthetics) and had no luck =)

The Trident will knock it out.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> As vortexes go that one is actually pretty awesome. I know people who have tried to get one that cool looking to form (for aesthetics) and had no luck =)
> 
> The Trident will knock it out.


I agree ... it does look good. One question I have ... where does the trident go ... down the bottom covering the outlet port ... or in the middle 'blocking' the in-take port?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Well ... it seems that I will definitely be putting in an order for a vortex calming trident ...


must have bigger one!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I agree ... it does look good. One question I have ... where does the trident go ... down the bottom covering the outlet port ... or in the middle 'blocking' the in-take port?


It does look cool right? I NEVER get such a well formed and clean spiral dancing like that. Mine is mostly little bubbles you can hardly see.

The press in tridents will fit into any of the molded parts. End caps, (with or without side ports) and couplers. You are also not restricted to using just one so if you want one in the coupler where water is coming in, and one in the end cap where water is exiting so be it =).

I got the ball rolling on Trident Two packs today.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It does look cool right? I NEVER get such a well formed and clean spiral dancing like that. Mine is mostly little bubbles you can hardly see.
> 
> The press in tridents will fit into any of the molded parts. End caps, (with or without side ports) and couplers. You are also not restricted to using just one so if you want one in the coupler where water is coming in, and one in the end cap where water is exiting so be it =).
> 
> I got the ball rolling on Trident Two packs today.


Safe to assume that the "2 Packs" will be available in white also ?


----------



## BoxGods

While I remember, some updates.

Two and Four bulb inverters should be arriving at Performance by Friday or Monday.

Radiator mounts for MMRS are done, package and ready to ship. So a few weeks or so for resellers to have those.

Fitting plugs are done and packaged as well. Will have pictures of both shortly.

What am I forgetting...oh yeah Motor Mounting Tube Extension Rings are also done.

Wow...I am almost afraid to say it out loud, but I think we are finally just about caught up. Now if I could just shake that nagging feeling I am forgetting something I was supposed to do...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Safe to assume that the "2 Packs" will be available in white also ?


Dunno about "safe" (this is me we are talking about here after all).but yes, available in white also.


----------



## BoxGods

For those of you who did not see the posts about fitting plugs and were wondering what they are.

Think of them as very similar to our stock stop plug, but with threads machined on the outer diameter that allow you to install the stop plug as you normally would, but then to screw on the compression ring from a Free Center compression fitting, or a Chain Gun compression fitting. Makes that unused port match the fittings you have on populated ports.


----------



## BoxGods

On an unrelated note.

If any of you guys happen to be into Trading Card Games, we just launched a pretty awesome Deck Box. A project I worked on with my son so a lot of fun.

You can check it out at www.boxgods.com


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> On an unrelated note.
> 
> If any of you guys happen to be into Trading Card Games, we just launched a pretty awesome Deck Box. A project I worked on with my son so a lot of fun.
> 
> You can check it out at www.boxgods.com


Now that is just cool!







Makes me wish I still played card games...


----------



## Tomiger

A couple questions:

1.) I noticed a picture that was posted around the time that the white parts were made available to PPCs. It had the SAP pump with the white molded top. Is that white top available on PPCs? I don't believe you can order just the molded top, let alone in white. I've already painted one myself a while ago, but I plan on getting the other molded parts and would prefer to have everything was the same shade of white.

2.) I don't know if I've missed it somewhere in this thread, but is there an estimated date for the EV2 fittings being available?

3.) Now a question unrelated to product availability. I will be installing the FDP at the back of my case. I've seen examples of the FDP installed and I understand how it works. However, the place where I need it installed has that mesh/hole surface, as shown below:



What do you guys think is the best way to cut the circular hole for the FDP? Would the drill bit that is meant for the FDP work in this scenario or would it be easier/cleaner to just dremel out the tiny pieces of metal between the holes? And overall, is there anything that would prevent the FDP from working on such a surface? I don't have much hands-on experience with this type of work, so I don't want to try something that will not work and/or damage the case.

Thanks!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> A couple questions:
> 
> 1.) I noticed a picture that was posted around the time that the white parts were made available to PPCs. It had the SAP pump with the white molded top. Is that white top available on PPCs? I don't believe you can order just the molded top, let alone in white. I've already painted one myself a while ago, but I plan on getting the other molded parts and would prefer to have everything was the same shade of white.
> 
> 2.) I don't know if I've missed it somewhere in this thread, but is there an estimated date for the EV2 fittings being available?
> 
> 3.) Now a question unrelated to product availability. I will be installing the FDP at the back of my case. I've seen examples of the FDP installed and I understand how it works. However, the place where I need it installed has that mesh/hole surface, as shown below:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think is the best way to cut the circular hole for the FDP? Would the drill bit that is meant for the FDP work in this scenario or would it be easier/cleaner to just dremel out the tiny pieces of metal between the holes? And overall, is there anything that would prevent the FDP from working on such a surface? I don't have much hands-on experience with this type of work, so I don't want to try something that will not work and/or damage the case.
> 
> Thanks!


White pump top - http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-white.html

I believe BoxGods said recently EV2 fittings are packed and ready to ship out to etailers.

Go to hardware store and get a reamer like this for a drill to make the FDP hole.


BoxGods or anyone else may add more/better info.


----------



## ruffhi

I wouldn't use one of those drills to get your 44mm hole. Just work out where you need to 'cut' between the hexes and do it with a dremel or manual saw.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> White pump top - http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-white.html


Unfortunately, I believe that is only for mounting a pump to your reservoir.

I'm looking for the top in this picture:










Thanks for the info!


----------



## ciarlatano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Unfortunately, I believe that is only for mounting a pump to your reservoir.
> 
> I'm looking for the top in this picture:
> 
> Thanks for the info!


A bit back in the thread @BoxGods said that the white ends and tops were still in production. Not sure if he gave an update as to when they would be available at the retail level.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> A bit back in the thread @BoxGods said that the white ends and tops were still in production. Not sure if he gave an update as to when they would be available at the retail level.


Gotcha, I was just curious. I've been monitoring PPCs every so often to see if the pump top would show up, since the other white end caps have been up for a few weeks now.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I wouldn't use one of those drills to get your 44mm hole. Just work out where you need to 'cut' between the hexes and do it with a dremel or manual saw.


Why? A dremel makes a mess, a reamer makes a nice clean hole. Unless they already have a dremel and don't want to spend money...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> White pump top - http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-white.html
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I believe that is only for mounting a pump to your reservoir.
> 
> I'm looking for the top in this picture:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the info!
Click to expand...

Ah, gotcha, my bad.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ciarlatano*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Unfortunately, I believe that is only for mounting a pump to your reservoir.
> 
> I'm looking for the top in this picture:
> 
> Thanks for the info!
> 
> 
> 
> A bit back in the thread @BoxGods said that the white ends and tops were still in production. Not sure if he gave an update as to when they would be available at the retail level.
Click to expand...

Well there you go.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I wouldn't use one of those drills to get your 44mm hole. Just work out where you need to 'cut' between the hexes and do it with a dremel or manual saw.
> 
> 
> 
> Why? A dremel makes a mess, a reamer makes a nice clean hole. Unless they already have a dremel and don't want to spend money...
Click to expand...

A reamer through chicken wire would make a huge mess. A reamer through a solid piece of aluminium is spot on .. and one of the most fun elements I have when modding cases. A reamer through the hex grid ... that has me worried as it could really give a bad result.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I wouldn't use one of those drills to get your 44mm hole. Just work out where you need to 'cut' between the hexes and do it with a dremel or manual saw.
> 
> 
> 
> Why? A dremel makes a mess, a reamer makes a nice clean hole. Unless they already have a dremel and don't want to spend money...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A reamer through chicken wire would make a huge mess. A reamer through a solid piece of aluminium is spot on .. and one of the most fun elements I have when modding cases. A reamer through the hex grid ... that has me worried as it could really give a bad result.
Click to expand...

Using tools properly is key to a good outcome. It does work, at least for 1000's of modders over about 20 years, but then each to their own also.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Using tools properly is key to a good outcome. It does work, at least for 1000's of modders over about 20 years, but then each to their own also.


I totally agree. But I think Tomiger's question includes some wrinkles that I am not sure if your answer has address.

*Part One* - the hole will be 44mm diameter ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> 3.) Now a question unrelated to product availability. I will be installing the FDP at the back of my case.


If you can find a reamer (is that really what they are called? I've been calling them step-drills) that goes all the way up to 44mm (that is 1.75") then great.

*Part Two* - the hole is being put into a sheet of mesh ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> However, the place where I need it installed has that mesh/hole surface, as shown below:


I've used step-drills. When they step up in size, there is some drill kickback. You can just work straight through a solid piece ... but a piece that is mainly empty (ie the above mesh) may give some very unpleasant results as it steps up to the next size.

All of that said ... the FDP part includes a metal piece were only the inside part goes into the hole ... there is a lot of flang that can and (in the case of my 44mm hole) does cover up a lot of rough edges.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Using tools properly is key to a good outcome. It does work, at least for 1000's of modders over about 20 years, but then each to their own also.
> 
> 
> 
> I totally agree. But I think Tomiger's question includes some wrinkles that I am not sure if your answer has address.
> 
> *Part One* - the hole will be 44mm diameter ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> 3.) Now a question unrelated to product availability. I will be installing the FDP at the back of my case.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you can find a reamer (is that really what they are called? I've been calling them step-drills) that goes all the way up to 44mm (that is 1.75") then great.
> 
> *Part Two* - the hole is being put into a sheet of mesh ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> However, the place where I need it installed has that mesh/hole surface, as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> I've used step-drills. When they step up in size, there is some drill kickback. You can just work straight through a solid piece ... but a piece that is mainly empty (ie the above mesh) may give some very unpleasant results as it steps up to the next size.
> 
> All of that said ... the FDP part includes a metal piece were only the inside part goes into the hole ... there is a lot of flang that can and (in the case of my 44mm hole) does cover up a lot of rough edges.
Click to expand...




Step drill is the more appropriate name, but ******* slang we call em reamers. They make them pretty big, even bigger than 44mm. You just need a little practice to learn them and they work great. Should be one in every modders/rig builders tool kit.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Step drill is the more appropriate name, but ******* slang we call em reamers. They make them pretty big, even bigger than 44mm. You just need a little practice to learn them and they work great. Should be one in every modders/rig builders tool kit.


The are great for solid panels, but personally i would never use one on mesh or recommend for someone to do that. Too easy to mess up the mesh with the if the cutting side grabs will bend the mesh or worse. Margin for error is 2 great to use imho.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Step drill is the more appropriate name, but ******* slang we call em reamers. They make them pretty big, even bigger than 44mm. You just need a little practice to learn them and they work great. Should be one in every modders/rig builders tool kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The are great for solid panels, but personally i would never use one on mesh or recommend for someone to do that. Too easy to mess up the mesh with the if the cutting side grabs will bend the mesh or worse. Margin for error is 2 great to use imho.
Click to expand...

Each to their own, great thing about modding, no right or wrong way, end result is whats awesome.


----------



## Bear907

Depends on the thickness of the mesh and how well you have it clamped down IME. Step bits are a must in your tool kit.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> Depends on the thickness of the mesh and how well you have it clamped down IME. Step bits are a must in your tool kit.


Its all about the proper pressure of using the tool. Just like I see so many posts that people can't cut acrylic tube with a hacksaw because it breaks and cracks. You have to mod with your head, not your muscles.


----------



## Bear907




----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> A couple questions:
> 
> 1.) I noticed a picture that was posted around the time that the white parts were made available to PPCs. It had the SAP pump with the white molded top. Is that white top available on PPCs? I don't believe you can order just the molded top, let alone in white. I've already painted one myself a while ago, but I plan on getting the other molded parts and would prefer to have everything was the same shade of white.
> 
> 2.) I don't know if I've missed it somewhere in this thread, but is there an estimated date for the EV2 fittings being available?
> 
> 3.) Now a question unrelated to product availability. I will be installing the FDP at the back of my case. I've seen examples of the FDP installed and I understand how it works. However, the place where I need it installed has that mesh/hole surface, as shown below:
> 
> 
> 
> What do you guys think is the best way to cut the circular hole for the FDP? Would the drill bit that is meant for the FDP work in this scenario or would it be easier/cleaner to just dremel out the tiny pieces of metal between the holes? And overall, is there anything that would prevent the FDP from working on such a surface? I don't have much hands-on experience with this type of work, so I don't want to try something that will not work and/or damage the case.
> 
> Thanks!


1. The molded white parts have been released and are at Performance already. This includes the TRP pump end cap but does NOT include the SAP pump top. We do not sell the SAP pump top as a stand alone part in either white or black plastic because the SAP sells as a complete kit--molded pump top, motor mounting tube, low profile mount.

2. EV2 fittings are done and shipping now. I will update this thread when and where they are in stock.

3. The FDP and FDP cap will work fine on mesh panels. As for how you drill the hole it depends on a few things. Steel or aluminum case? What tools do you own or have access to?

As a best practice:

1. Cut two small squares of either 1/8" or 1/4" plywood or similar material about 3 or 3 1/2 inches on a side. On one of them use the included template and mark the 44mm hole and the four mounting holes. Clamp the two pieces together and carefully drill the four mounting holes thru both pieces. While you have that drill bit loaded, and the pieces still clamped together, drill a 5th hole in the center of the 44mm hole location. This will be used as a pilot hole later when you drill the larger hole.

2. Unclamp the two pieces. Use the one you marked on the outside of the case and locate where you want to install the reservoir and FDP cap. Essentially what you are going to do is create a "sandwich" with the case panel as the "meat" and the two wood pieces as the "bread". Use small scrap screws and nuts to lock this sandwich together.

3. Make sure the sandwich is securely locked together AND is exactly where you want it. Use the 44mm diameter spade bit (available at the store where you bought your MMRS parts) and drill your 44mm hole using the small pilot hole you drilled nto your wood parts earlier. Remove the screws and wood pieces and use sand paper or a small file to deburr the edges of the hole as needed.

So why does the "Best Practice" method include the two scrap wood blocks? Because any type of drill bit will require solid material in the exact center of your 44mm hole and the chances are good you won't have that on the mesh back panel. You can't use a step or spade type bit without doing these steps because the drill bit will jump all over the place and end up beating the crap out of your case.

OK. With the Best Practices stuff out of the way the more likely method for most home shop builders is you throw blue painters tape over the area where you will be mounting the reservoir, use the included template and a sharpie to mark the 44mm hole and the 4 screw holes. Push the blue tape into the mesh pattern a bit so you can see where the solid material is. Use wire cutters or the spare blade from the Hardline cutting kit to "clip" out most of the mesh material from the big 44mm hole. Get within a few mmof the line (but not too close). Then use either a dremel sanding drum, round sanding block, or a curved file and "creep up" on the line gradually. Use a drill bit for the four mounting holes as needed.

The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.

*EDIT*

If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.


----------



## ruffhi

Best part of BoxGods' quote is ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.


Ok, this part is pretty good too ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.


----------



## Mega Man

i am missing something what is the SAP ( stand alone pump ? )

and fdp ? ( linkys would be awesome ) so would an awesome webpage for monsoon !


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Best part of BoxGods' quote is ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, this part is pretty good too ...
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Haha, BoxGods basically said when he made FDP, "be as bad as you want I will CYA"!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i am missing something what is the SAP ( stand alone pump ? )
> 
> and fdp ? ( linkys would be awesome ) so would an awesome webpage for monsoon !


Regulars in here tend to refer to the different parts by some form of their part numbers as a sort of short hand. FDP usually refers to two sub-groups of parts, the molded end cap, FDP-BASE which comes in either black or white, and the "caps" that fit the base and come in two types, (standard and spacer) two styles, (round or square) and all the monsoon colors.

SAP does refer to the Stand Alone Pump and you could think of it pretty much as just what that name implies. The other pump "version" is the TRP which stands for tube reservoir pump and is the end cap that you can mount a D5 to.

The best way to get up to speed is our youtube channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q

Sorry that our website is not up to date. Pure laziness on my part.


----------



## Mega Man

it is fine, i been paying attention ... mostly i just got busy at work, which is taking most of my time


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 1. The molded white parts have been released and are at Performance already. This includes the TRP pump end cap but does NOT include the SAP pump top. We do not sell the SAP pump top as a stand alone part in either white or black plastic because the SAP sells as a complete kit--molded pump top, motor mounting tube, low profile mount.
> 
> 2. EV2 fittings are done and shipping now. I will update this thread when and where they are in stock.
> 
> 3. The FDP and FDP cap will work fine on mesh panels. As for how you drill the hole it depends on a few things. Steel or aluminum case? What tools do you own or have access to?
> 
> As a best practice:
> 
> 1. Cut two small squares of either 1/8" or 1/4" plywood or similar material about 3 or 3 1/2 inches on a side. On one of them use the included template and mark the 44mm hole and the four mounting holes. Clamp the two pieces together and carefully drill the four mounting holes thru both pieces. While you have that drill bit loaded, and the pieces still clamped together, drill a 5th hole in the center of the 44mm hole location. This will be used as a pilot hole later when you drill the larger hole.
> 
> 2. Unclamp the two pieces. Use the one you marked on the outside of the case and locate where you want to install the reservoir and FDP cap. Essentially what you are going to do is create a "sandwich" with the case panel as the "meat" and the two wood pieces as the "bread". Use small scrap screws and nuts to lock this sandwich together.
> 
> 3. Make sure the sandwich is securely locked together AND is exactly where you want it. Use the 44mm diameter spade bit (available at the store where you bought your MMRS parts) and drill your 44mm hole using the small pilot hole you drilled nto your wood parts earlier. Remove the screws and wood pieces and use sand paper or a small file to deburr the edges of the hole as needed.
> 
> So why does the "Best Practice" method include the two scrap wood blocks? Because any type of drill bit will require solid material in the exact center of your 44mm hole and the chances are good you won't have that on the mesh back panel. You can't use a step or spade type bit without doing these steps because the drill bit will jump all over the place and end up beating the crap out of your case.
> 
> OK. With the Best Practices stuff out of the way the more likely method for most home shop builders is you throw blue painters tape over the area where you will be mounting the reservoir, use the included template and a sharpie to mark the 44mm hole and the 4 screw holes. Push the blue tape into the mesh pattern a bit so you can see where the solid material is. Use wire cutters or the spare blade from the Hardline cutting kit to "clip" out most of the mesh material from the big 44mm hole. Get within a few mmof the line (but not too close). Then use either a dremel sanding drum, round sanding block, or a curved file and "creep up" on the line gradually. Use a drill bit for the four mounting holes as needed.
> 
> The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.


Amen brother that is 1000% the right way to do it with a step bit


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1. The molded white parts have been released and are at Performance already. This includes the TRP pump end cap but does NOT include the SAP pump top. We do not sell the SAP pump top as a stand alone part in either white or black plastic because the SAP sells as a complete kit--molded pump top, motor mounting tube, low profile mount.
> 
> 2. EV2 fittings are done and shipping now. I will update this thread when and where they are in stock.
> 
> 3. The FDP and FDP cap will work fine on mesh panels. As for how you drill the hole it depends on a few things. Steel or aluminum case? What tools do you own or have access to?
> 
> As a best practice:
> 
> 1. Cut two small squares of either 1/8" or 1/4" plywood or similar material about 3 or 3 1/2 inches on a side. On one of them use the included template and mark the 44mm hole and the four mounting holes. Clamp the two pieces together and carefully drill the four mounting holes thru both pieces. While you have that drill bit loaded, and the pieces still clamped together, drill a 5th hole in the center of the 44mm hole location. This will be used as a pilot hole later when you drill the larger hole.
> 
> 2. Unclamp the two pieces. Use the one you marked on the outside of the case and locate where you want to install the reservoir and FDP cap. Essentially what you are going to do is create a "sandwich" with the case panel as the "meat" and the two wood pieces as the "bread". Use small scrap screws and nuts to lock this sandwich together.
> 
> 3. Make sure the sandwich is securely locked together AND is exactly where you want it. Use the 44mm diameter spade bit (available at the store where you bought your MMRS parts) and drill your 44mm hole using the small pilot hole you drilled nto your wood parts earlier. Remove the screws and wood pieces and use sand paper or a small file to deburr the edges of the hole as needed.
> 
> So why does the "Best Practice" method include the two scrap wood blocks? Because any type of drill bit will require solid material in the exact center of your 44mm hole and the chances are good you won't have that on the mesh back panel. You can't use a step or spade type bit without doing these steps because the drill bit will jump all over the place and end up beating the crap out of your case.
> 
> OK. With the Best Practices stuff out of the way the more likely method for most home shop builders is you throw blue painters tape over the area where you will be mounting the reservoir, use the included template and a sharpie to mark the 44mm hole and the 4 screw holes. Push the blue tape into the mesh pattern a bit so you can see where the solid material is. Use wire cutters or the spare blade from the Hardline cutting kit to "clip" out most of the mesh material from the big 44mm hole. Get within a few mmof the line (but not too close). Then use either a dremel sanding drum, round sanding block, or a curved file and "creep up" on the line gradually. Use a drill bit for the four mounting holes as needed.
> 
> The FDP Cap has a nice wide flange on it that will cover a multitude of sins and once installed everything will look nice and clean.
> 
> *EDIT*
> 
> If you are using a drill, or motor tool, wear eye protection.


Thanks for the info! Due to my lack of space and materials, I will probably be going the quick and dirty route and covering up all of the screw-ups with the FDP cap.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Thanks for the info! Due to my lack of space and materials, I will probably be going the quick and dirty route and covering up all of the screw-ups with the FDP cap.


Most of us do =)


----------



## ToxM82

Any updates on the cold cathode inverters? I am getting close to finishing my build need a solution for these bad boys. I am running x4 total.

Thank you!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Any updates on the cold cathode inverters? I am getting close to finishing my build need a solution for these bad boys. I am running x4 total.
> 
> Thank you!


They should have arrived at Performance on Friday--or be there Monday depending on ship time. Will take them a day or two to have them up on the site I would guess so pretty much any time now.


----------



## JbstormburstADV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> On an unrelated note.
> 
> If any of you guys happen to be into Trading Card Games, we just launched a pretty awesome Deck Box. A project I worked on with my son so a lot of fun.
> 
> You can check it out at www.boxgods.com


This is definitely an interesting product you've come up with. However, I feel that perhaps if you could come up with a version that can be used as a dice box (d20 FTW!), you would be able to diversify sales.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JbstormburstADV*
> 
> This is definitely an interesting product you've come up with. However, I feel that perhaps if you could come up with a version that can be used as a dice box (d20 FTW!), you would be able to diversify sales.


Well, the design is fairly modular so building it into different products is not all that hard. If you like you can PM me and we can discuss what you would want to see in a dice box =)


----------



## BoxGods

Update on EU resellers.

OCUK has received their first MMRS order--FINALLY









Should start showing up on their site this week. They ordered fairly lightly to test the market so if you are in the EU and need MMRS parts I would not wait too long, just in case.


----------



## LucikMucik

Great! I want to see price, because I really need one MMRS for new custom build  .


----------



## Mega Man

Anyone know what happened with the d5 extension? It isn't on ppc


----------



## Deedaz

There wasn't enough UV effect in my case because of the front LED fans so I swapped those for UV fans and added some more dye to the loop. The difference is amazing, the res really pops now.


----------



## red eye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> A reamer through chicken wire would make a huge mess. A reamer through a solid piece of aluminium is spot on .. and one of the most fun elements I have when modding cases. A reamer through the hex grid ... that has me worried as it could really give a bad result.


It will move around and bend the bits of metal that are not supported that make up the hexagons and make a mess. You would actually make more of a mess than if you used tin snips
Draw the circle and cut with a rotary tool and use the sanding drum bit to finish off


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> There wasn't enough UV effect in my case because of the front LED fans so I swapped those for UV fans and added some more dye to the loop. The difference is amazing, the res really pops now.


Of course some thumping club music is required to fully appreciate that nuclear reactor 'esk" glow =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Anyone know what happened with the d5 extension? It isn't on ppc


Going as fast as we can Boss









So "soon"


----------



## Bear907

Can anyone point me in the direction of another Monsoon reseller in the US? PPCS is out of stock of the black couplers which is going to stall my build.


----------



## ruffhi

I think you are out of luck ... it is PPCs or nothing.


----------



## Bear907

Tis what I was afraid of. Oh well.


----------



## BoxGods

Titan rig opted for sea freight for their first MMRS shipment...so it will still be several weeks until they get stock.

Are there any other US resellers (besides Frozen) you guys want me to reach out to?


----------



## Bear907

PPCS and Frozen are my personal go to's. I've bought the occasional thing from ModMyMods and mnpctech over the years.


----------



## ruffhi

_ModMyMods_ are growing their stock quickly ... so they would be my suggestion.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Anyone know what happened with the d5 extension? It isn't on ppc
> 
> 
> 
> Going as fast as we can Boss
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So "soon"
Click to expand...





Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Titan rig opted for sea freight for their first MMRS shipment...so it will still be several weeks until they get stock.
> 
> Are there any other US resellers (besides Frozen) you guys want me to reach out to?


please, for the love of god, NEVER use frozen again
i know i wont. not after that shenanigans, the nail in the coffin for me was him insulting the cops....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> _ModMyMods_ are growing their stock quickly ... so they would be my suggestion.


iirc monsoon wont use them as they stock barrow. i was told bitspower monsoon and another company ( i wanna say ek ? ) do not support ripping off ip. which like barrow or not, is easy to tell they do. - i am not getting into an argument here, just stating facts

my goto company is either ppcs or coolerguys


----------



## ToxM82

I love my RES from Monsoon, I am sad to say however how easy it is for the G1/4 threads to strip while trying to achieve a seal, it would be slick to see metal threads somehow worked into the molds for more durability, I had to pain stakenly take a part the top/bottom of my res and swap the top with the bottom.

I thought for-sure my issue was solved, sadly it is still ever so slightly leaking, I am thinking about using some plumper tape to see if i cant get it to seal all the way. - This in no way would stop me from buying these or recommending them I am leaving my 2-cents here.

I am using the "Fill tops for the top/bottom" the center "Dual port" has zero issues, I am not sure if the molds are different slightly? - but I just thought I would let everyone know, due to the complex short run and having to un-do some stuff I am seriously just considering using silicone around the seal...

I forgot to mention I am using bitspower compression fittings. In any-case LOVING my build!


----------



## Bear907

Try replacing the o ring on the offending fitting. Otherwise, plumbers tape is a good alternative.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Titan rig opted for sea freight for their first MMRS shipment...so it will still be several weeks until they get stock.
> 
> Are there any other US resellers (besides Frozen) you guys want me to reach out to?


Imo I do not want to see a dime a dozen etailers stocking MMRS parts. I know people have their issues with PPCS and shipping, but honestly them being the "go to" now gives some security for us end users that they will continue to stock a wide range of products. I would rather wait for something to come back in stock than go to a half dozen different sites to order what I need. PPCS is pretty much a one stop shop that we can count on, and I have never had an issue with them in my experience. Us as users can put pressure on them by sending emails asking for more stock on products. I have personally seen them do that after several emails. They may not be lightening fast but they do listen and once they hear our cries they try to do their best.

If anything I would like to see a brick and mortar store carry Monsoon products. EK seems to have a good thing going with Microcenter, so maybe another store like Fry's would be a good outlet for competition. They wouldn't even have to stock individual parts imo, Boxgods could put together some premade MMRS setups and package those and then maybe just the most popular individual parts. I dont know how well PPCS premade MMRS setups are selling, but I think the Tt stuff is selling well at Fry's and MMRS would blow them away.


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> Try replacing the o ring on the offending fitting. Otherwise, plumbers tape is a good alternative.


I actually did a whole new fitting when I swapped the top, it isn't the o-ring sadly.


----------



## Ceadderman

God no, Fry's is not the place for water cooling parts imho.









I've had too many issues, both experienced and related from good people to know they aren't reliable enough for the enthusiast market. Wish I could say otherwise but after having gotten used products sold as new, I would just rely on PPCs rather than driving 2 hours to Portland to Fry's.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> God no, Fry's is not the place for water cooling parts imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've had too many issues, both experienced and related from good people to know they aren't reliable enough for the enthusiast market. Wish I could say otherwise but after having gotten used products sold as new, I would just rely on PPCs rather than driving 2 hours to Portland to Fry's.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I can't argue with any of that, but it is only an hour drive for me, haha.


----------



## Ceadderman

Shoot if any brick and mortar store comes to mind for possibility of Enthusiast it would be Newegg or Best Buy. But Tt has the egg sewn up and Best Buy isn't in the cooling enthusiast market, yet.









~Ceadder


----------



## ToxM82

uhhh I am sad to report, that now my bottom port is stripped... my build was online and loaded Win10 with a few programs, it was leaking slowly, slowly got worse so I took it apart hoping to put some plumper tape on it, but now it wont even hold a tight seal, I even rotated the fitting counter clock wise to ensure it was threading straight before going clock wise.



Tested the same fitting on a spar CPU block I have, and all is fine seal wise on it so I know it isn't the fitting at all... I am really not sure what to do at this point, I guess order a new bottom for my res?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> uhhh I am sad to report, that now my bottom port is stripped... my build was online and loaded Win10 with a few programs, it was leaking slowly, slowly got worse so I took it apart hoping to put some plumper tape on it, but now it wont even hold a tight seal, I even rotated the fitting counter clock wise to ensure it was threading straight before going clock wise.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tested the same fitting on a spar CPU block I have, and all is fine seal wise on it so I know it isn't the fitting at all... I am really not sure what to do at this point, I guess order a new bottom for my res?


What fitting are you putting on there? The FDP port is only made for a plug. I had a similar issue with using extenders to connect a pump and I had to use 2 o-rings to make it seal. It's just the design of the FDP.


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> What fitting are you putting on there? The FDP port is only made for a plug. I had a similar issue with using extenders to connect a pump and I had to use 2 o-rings to make it seal. It's just the design of the FDP.


Bitspower compression fittings:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-black-sparkle-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html

hmm let me try another seal, it seems like it only grabs on one thread though... I dont feel to comfy with it like this









Adding another seal doesnt allow me to thread it at all... What are my other options here?


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Bitspower compression fittings:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-black-sparkle-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html
> 
> hmm let me try another seal, it seems like it only grabs on one thread though... I dont feel to comfy with it like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding another seal doesnt allow me to thread it at all... What are my other options here?


you know what I see what it is now, its only catching 1 thread because the OD of the fitting is bigger since the damn FDP G1/4 hole is not flush with the base of it... hmmmm I wonder if I can bore it out just enough to catch threads.

or maybe someone knows of a extender that would fit there allowing a small push off from the FDA base there.

Wonder if this would work:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-bswp-c60-g1-4-black-sparkle-ig1-4-extender-15mm.html

Hopefully Micro Center has something like this in stock... I really don't want to wait on shipping now that this thing is pretty much done all but this part







haha


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> What fitting are you putting on there? The FDP port is only made for a plug. I had a similar issue with using extenders to connect a pump and I had to use 2 o-rings to make it seal. It's just the design of the FDP.
> 
> 
> 
> Bitspower compression fittings:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-black-sparkle-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html
> 
> hmm let me try another seal, it seems like it only grabs on one thread though... I dont feel to comfy with it like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding another seal doesnt allow me to thread it at all... What are my other options here?
Click to expand...

I had the same issue but I was using an extender. I used 2 o-rings and I didn't feel I could get it to thread, but I pressed hard enough that I eventually got it to catch. I literally think I have only a couple of threads holding it, but mine doesn't leak. The other option that Boxgods suggested is to dremel out the opening to allow the fitting to seat properly.


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I had the same issue but I was using an extender. I used 2 o-rings and I didn't feel I could get it to thread, but I pressed hard enough that I eventually got it to catch. I literally think I have only a couple of threads holding it, but mine doesn't leak. The other option that Boxgods suggested is to dremel out the opening to allow the fitting to seat properly.


I am not a big fan of messing with things like that but That isn't a bad idea either... WHY YOU DO THIS BOXGOD
















Thanks for your quick replys Radnad


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Bitspower compression fittings:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-g1-4-black-sparkle-enhance-multi-link-for-od-16mm.html
> 
> hmm let me try another seal, it seems like it only grabs on one thread though... I dont feel to comfy with it like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding another seal doesnt allow me to thread it at all... What are my other options here?
> 
> 
> 
> you know what I see what it is now, its only catching 1 thread because the OD of the fitting is bigger since the damn FDP G1/4 hole is not flush with the base of it... hmmmm I wonder if I can bore it out just enough to catch threads.
> 
> or maybe someone knows of a extender that would fit there allowing a small push off from the FDA base there.
> 
> Wonder if this would work:
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-bp-bswp-c60-g1-4-black-sparkle-ig1-4-extender-15mm.html
> 
> Hopefully Micro Center has something like this in stock... I really don't want to wait on shipping now that this thing is pretty much done all but this part
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I had the same issue but I was using an extender. I used 2 o-rings and I didn't feel I could get it to thread, but I pressed hard enough that I eventually got it to catch. I literally think I have only a couple of threads holding it, but mine doesn't leak. The other option that Boxgods suggested is to dremel out the opening to allow the fitting to seat properly.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not a big fan of messing with things like that but That isn't a bad idea either... WHY YOU DO THIS BOXGOD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your quick replys Radnad
Click to expand...

I used an EK extender because it was the narrowest extender I could find, and good news is I did pick it up at microcenter. I used a monsoon G1/4 o-ring on top of the EK extender o-ring and it worked. The Monsoon o-ring is much thicker than the EK, the EK is barely an o-ring imo, but for normal use I guess it's ok. The Monsoon o-ring is a beast! I tried two EK o-rings because I had extra but wasn't enough.


----------



## seross69

Guys i can tell you from industrial experience never use 2 orings together as it will leak!! Think about it a iring is to be used between 2 hard surfaces and if tou have 2 together then it is soft in the middle and will leak! I can not belive boxgods said to do this????


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys i can tell you from industrial experience never use 2 orings together as it will leak!! Think about it a iring is to be used between 2 hard surfaces and if tou have 2 together then it is soft in the middle and will leak! I can not belive boxgods said to do this????


This x100, you'll never get a perfect seal with 2 orings on top of each other, it's rubber, it will need 100% even accurate pressure and it simply won't happen.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> I love my RES from Monsoon, I am sad to say however how easy it is for the G1/4 threads to strip while trying to achieve a seal, it would be slick to see metal threads somehow worked into the molds for more durability, I had to pain stakenly take a part the top/bottom of my res and swap the top with the bottom.
> 
> I thought for-sure my issue was solved, sadly it is still ever so slightly leaking, I am thinking about using some plumper tape to see if i cant get it to seal all the way. - This in no way would stop me from buying these or recommending them I am leaving my 2-cents here.
> 
> I am using the "Fill tops for the top/bottom" the center "Dual port" has zero issues, I am not sure if the molds are different slightly? - but I just thought I would let everyone know, due to the complex short run and having to un-do some stuff I am seriously just considering using silicone around the seal...
> 
> I forgot to mention I am using bitspower compression fittings. In any-case LOVING my build!


I am not sure why you are using the FDP-BASE end cap internally with a fitting (it is simply not designed for that). It is designed to accept a PLUG as it is a fill port. My advice is to replace the FDP with the correct end cap as your are simply not using the FDP as it is intended to be used.


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am not sure why you are using the FDP-BASE end cap internally with a fitting (it is simply not designed for that). It is designed to accept a PLUG as it is a fill port. My advice is to replace the FDP with the correct end cap as your are simply not using the FDP as it is intended to be used.


I am using it because two FDA "top/bottom" look like a sick reactor ?? conspired to just the bottom. Truthfully I didn't notice at all it was only for a plug at the time. Even when I was originally posting on here about what I liked no one warned me, which is ok since I bet I'm a first to trying this. In either case I don't blame anyone my. My own Fault for not reading between the lines k suppose but I'm not sure I could have caught that either way.

Would be slick to over another type of FDA or even just a spacer that brings the G1/4 up so another fitting can be threaded on.

The good news is I am pretty sure a normal 15mm spacer will do the trick and if not I will Dremel the OD. Guess it's a good thing it's easy material to work with! ???

I just wish I caught on to it before I painfully switch the top with the bottom ?? oh well just means I know how to tear down the rig quicker now ??


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys i can tell you from industrial experience never use 2 orings together as it will leak!! Think about it a iring is to be used between 2 hard surfaces and if tou have 2 together then it is soft in the middle and will leak! I can not belive boxgods said to do this????


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Guys i can tell you from industrial experience never use 2 orings together as it will leak!! Think about it a iring is to be used between 2 hard surfaces and if tou have 2 together then it is soft in the middle and will leak! I can not belive boxgods said to do this????
> 
> 
> 
> This x100, you'll never get a perfect seal with 2 orings on top of each other, it's rubber, it will need 100% even accurate pressure and it simply won't happen.
Click to expand...

BoxGods never said to do this, I did it myself to see if it would work to achieve what I wanted. It has been leak testing for over a week now with no leaks. The FDP isn't made for fittings we know this, but since when did modders and builders start obeying the rules of proper product usage, lol.

AND I'm not the type of person to cry foul to any manufacturer if my system becomes a great lake due to my modding. So everyone chill and mod on!


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> BoxGods never said to do this, I did it myself to see if it would work to achieve what I wanted. It has been leak testing for over a week now with no leaks. The FDP isn't made for fittings we know this, but since when did modders and builders start obeying the rules of proper product usage, lol.
> 
> AND I'm not the type of person to cry foul to any manufacturer if my system becomes a great lake due to my modding. So everyone chill and mod on!


Haha I like this, yeah since when did any good modders listen to "how too" as I stated anyways it's my fault I didn't take note or read this 300oagw thread to find this out lol but I am with you Rad, I don't cry either by brain storming and talking here in the forum I was able to identify the mistake and figure out a solution so all is well, I didn't mean to come off as complaining if any one took it that way, more or less frustration at the time haha like I also said above this won't stop me from buying Monsoon or even recommending them to friends! I love this MMRS design so may cool things can come of it! So keep on giving us the good stuff ????? BoxGod


----------



## BoxGods

I am all for modding of course...just don't use the product in a way that deviates from its design intent and then post, "I can't recommend this product because it didn't work"









Look at it from the other perspective. If I had made the cavity on top of the FDP so that it would accept a compression fitting there would be this big gap that looks bad and a LOT of people would be complaining that the part is designed for use with a plug as a fill port...but it looks bad with the plug because of the gap...


----------



## ToxM82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I am all for modding of course...just don't use the product in a way that deviates from its design intent and then post, "I can't recommend this product because it didn't work"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look at it from the other perspective. If I had made the cavity on top of the FDP so that it would accept a compression fitting there would be this big gap that looks bad and a LOT of people would be complaining that the part is designed for use with a plug as a fill port...but it looks bad with the plug because of the gap...


I hear you, and by no means am I that type anyways I just didn't honestly note the gap and was so confused I was worried it was stripped I'm really glad it isn't and I was just overlooking a fine detail you made!

Haha yeah that's true too! You should see if you can't get a nice adaptor for us in the future as well for smooth assembly purposes. I don't like cutting stuff but I will to make something work if I can, so I'll attempt a spacer if not I'll be taking the Dremel to it tonight.

I'll post my results just to share ? Thank you though appreciate the replies!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxM82*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> BoxGods never said to do this, I did it myself to see if it would work to achieve what I wanted. It has been leak testing for over a week now with no leaks. The FDP isn't made for fittings we know this, but since when did modders and builders start obeying the rules of proper product usage, lol.
> 
> AND I'm not the type of person to cry foul to any manufacturer if my system becomes a great lake due to my modding. So everyone chill and mod on!
> 
> 
> 
> Haha I like this, yeah since when did any good modders listen to "how too" as I stated anyways it's my fault I didn't take note or read this 300oagw thread to find this out lol but I am with you Rad, I don't cry either by brain storming and talking here in the forum I was able to identify the mistake and figure out a solution so all is well, I didn't mean to come off as complaining if any one took it that way, more or less frustration at the time haha like I also said above this won't stop me from buying Monsoon or even recommending them to friends! I love this MMRS design so may cool things can come of it! So keep on giving us the good stuff ????? BoxGod
Click to expand...

I'm probably the goofy one, but I just love the look of the DDC type pumps with the FDP!



Maybe Boxgods can add doing a special extender that is narrow enough on his mile long to do list, or better yet a DDC pump top in the same style as the FDP.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I'm probably the goofy one, but I just love the look of the DDC type pumps with the FDP!
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe Boxgods can add doing a special extender that is narrow enough on his mile long to do list, or better yet a DDC pump top in the same style as the FDP.


Man aren't you the clever one























I would make a DDC end cap in a flash if I could get resellers to stock them...the D5 probably outsells the DDC by more than 10 to 1 so I have a hard time getting resellers.


----------



## Bear907

I've been lurking this thread awhile now, and there seems to be a repeating theme - resellers don't stock all the awesome Monsoon stuff we want. So when is your online store opening up there @BoxGods?


----------



## Bear907

Meanwhile, my first go round with Monsoon fittings. Loving the look of the chain gun style. Can't wait to see them in the build.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> I've been lurking this thread awhile now, and there seems to be a repeating theme - resellers don't stock all the awesome Monsoon stuff we want. So when is your online store opening up there @BoxGods?


When I finally master the 30 hour day =)


----------



## LucikMucik

Hello, there isnt Rotary angle 16/13 for 16/13 hardline fitting? I found only 16/10 angle, but it doesn't look good with 16/13 fitting







.


----------



## BoxGods

There is a rotary for all four sizes of Free Center fittings...16/13 is likely the 1/2" x 5/8" size rotary.


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We are also working on aluminum 2 bulb and 4 bulb inverters similar to these. They will be finished in our Monsoon colors to match the MMRS reservoirs and our fittings. The PCB design is done and we are finishing up the extrusion designs. Should be shipping end of Feb. They will have black CCFL plugs, use a single SATA power plug (also black) and feature an optional plug in switch wire for a remote located switch.


Were these ever released? I've been planning my first pc build and custom loop over the last few weeks and I'm looking at getting the MMRS reservoir and would love to light the rest of my computer with matching CCFLs tucked into other corners. The switch is the cherry on top as I don't want my lights running all the time and my research suggest CCFLs aren't easy to dim like LEDs (though software controlled PWM might be able to run it at either 100% or 0%, nothing inbetween?)


----------



## Bear907

the plugs are available, but the inverters are not yet. BoxGods has said they've been shipped to PPCS, but they aren't up on the site quite yet.


----------



## BoxGods

Performance has them both in stock--the CCFL plugs are already up on their site and the inverters should be up any time now.


----------



## sanick

Oh cool. Good to know the product wasn't abandoned. It's looking like my build is gonna run about $9000 Australian so I won't be needing them anytime soon. Hopefully I'll have enough money by early next year.


----------



## BoxGods

That sounded pretty dramatic in AUD =)


----------



## BoxGods

Woot!

OCUK has MMRS up on their site:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/water-cooling/components/reservoirs/modular-reservoirs


----------



## sanick

Yeah and that $9000 doesn't include monitors and audio, which bumps the whole thing up to $14,000, so all up it's over 10k in US dollars :\

Actually, while I'm here and the topic of international stores stocking Monsoon has come up... what are my options like in Australia?

Looks like the OCUK order for my single 150mm tube setup will be $190 shipped, the same setup at PPC is $230 thanks to the $90 shipping. I looked at all the other sellers sites that Monsoon link on their official page but most just have the fittings, no MMRS set ups. Are there many other options?


----------



## BoxGods

Not really for Australia...sorry


----------



## LucikMucik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Woot!
> 
> OCUK has MMRS up on their site:
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/water-cooling/components/reservoirs/modular-reservoirs


No green? When will be available?


----------



## sanick

No worries. I might have to talk to some fellow aussies and figure out what sites offer the best combo of good part prices and good shipping prices.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LucikMucik*
> 
> No green? When will be available?


I don't really have any say over what they order...your best bet is to shoot them an email asking them to stock green parts.


----------



## Bear907

Just a heads up for folks, PPCS is out of stock of the Black couplers. I got an email from a customer service rep that said they aren't expecting more for about 5 weeks. I picked up the 3 I needed from the UK store BoxGods linked above. The shipping to Alaska was a few bucks more then the parts . . . but it beats waiting 5 weeks!


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bear907*
> 
> Just a heads up for folks, PPCS is out of stock of the Black couplers. I got an email from a customer service rep that said they aren't expecting more for about 5 weeks. I picked up the 3 I needed from the UK store BoxGods linked above. The shipping to Alaska was a few bucks more then the parts . . . but it beats waiting 5 weeks!


PPCS told me 3-5 weeks. I also want the inverters to show up.


----------



## Bear907

There were 10 of the couplers on the UK site before I ordered 3 of them. I'm impatient heh! And yeah I'm waiting on the inverters as well. They look so much better then the other offerings out there.


----------



## ruffhi

What do you do with an inverter? apart from turning something upside down?


----------



## Bear907

Your age is showing! =P Us old timers had no choice but to use inverters and CCFLs for years in case modding before LEDs came around.

You need it to light the CCFL light plugs . . . . or any CCFLs really. I'd give you a link, but I don't want to advertise someone else's product in Monsoon's thread. They typically are cheaply made with a light blue plastic coating. The burn out a lot, but are needed to run the CCFL tube. Monsoon's looks to be better made and certainly looks better.

Edit: A pic won't hurt.

These are the old school ones. Plenty of other companies sell similar, but they all suffer from cheap parts and heat issues over time. Looking forward to testing the Monsoon ones.


----------



## DNMock

Few quick questions, my memory is trash...

1. Which are the good fittings that can be converted from rigid to soft tubing? (Tip to Gene: Performance PC's is gonna need to put in an order with you on the 1/2" - 3/4" white ones here in a couple days...)

2. Any new slick products since the modular reservoirs?

3. Any word on where the heck that Justabunchofgeeks Guardian LCD went to?


----------



## raidflex

Is it possible to purchase just the back of the Monsoon Series Two Dual Bay res, so I can switch from a MCP35x to D5 if I wanted to?


----------



## BoxGods

Bad news...we found a last minute issue on the inverters we shipped out to PPCS. They all need to be scrapped. We are working on getting everything sorted out but it is probably going to be another month. I am REALLY sorry guys. If it is any consolation...I will end up taking a bath on these...and have a big red spot on my forehead from banging it on my desk =(

ON the backs, some resellers stock them...or some of them. The Tube back is in stock at PPCS...not sure about the others.

On just a bunch of geeks and LLED bars for their guardians...they sort of just fell off the radar so no idea what happened to them.

On converting fittings, any of the Premium fittings for Hard Lines (as long as there is a corresponding size of course) so Free Centers, Chain Guns, and Carbons.

On new products...the EV2 fittings are about to drop.


----------



## Mega Man

What's wrong with the inverters.

If it is not too bad have you Thought about maybe a "B grade" sale.

In other news. At least now you can machine some mounting points (screw holes) in the NEW inverters

If you do have to eat it I am sorry :/ it sucks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What's wrong with the inverters.
> 
> If it is not too bad have you Thought about maybe a "B grade" sale.
> 
> In other news. At least now you can machine some mounting points (screw holes) in the NEW inverters
> 
> If you do have to eat it I am sorry :/ it sucks


We will still be using the extrusions and end cap mold tooling...those ar very expensive.

The problem is the plastic pins on the SATA plug that mounts to the PCB. If the SATA plug is pushed in too hard, or if you try to plug it in backwards by mistake, it can come loose from the board and damage the plug.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Few quick questions, my memory is trash...
> 
> 1. Which are the good fittings that can be converted from rigid to soft tubing? (Tip to Gene: Performance PC's is gonna need to put in an order with you on the 1/2" - 3/4" white ones here in a couple days...)
> 
> 2. Any new slick products since the modular reservoirs?
> 
> 3. Any word on where the heck that Justabunchofgeeks Guardian LCD went to?


I'm pretty sure the hardline fittings don't come in 1/2 x 3/4. I think 3/8 x 5/8 is the largest monsoon has for hardlines.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What's wrong with the inverters.
> 
> If it is not too bad have you Thought about maybe a "B grade" sale.
> 
> In other news. At least now you can machine some mounting points (screw holes) in the NEW inverters
> 
> If you do have to eat it I am sorry :/ it sucks
> 
> 
> 
> We will still be using the extrusions and end cap mold tooling...those ar very expensive.
> 
> The problem is the plastic pins on the SATA plug that mounts to the PCB. If the SATA plug is pushed in too hard, or if you try to plug it in backwards by mistake, it can come loose from the board and damage the plug.
Click to expand...

Can you say bstock with warning ?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Woot!
> 
> OCUK has MMRS up on their site:
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/water-cooling/components/reservoirs/modular-reservoirs


Thank you!

finally a retailer website that actually works for ordering.

I've been looking for a nice customized reservoir for a while, and your options are just perfect for what I plan to build









too bad overclockers UK doesn't have the other cylinders in stock, the ones that have little clear windows mixed with frosted.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> finally a retailer website that actually works for ordering.
> 
> I've been looking for a nice customized reservoir for a while, and your options are just perfect for what I plan to build
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> too bad overclockers UK doesn't have the other cylinders in stock, the ones that have little clear windows mixed with frosted.


They seem to be very responsive to customers...maybe shoot them an email and ask them to stock them.


----------



## AllGamer

*Question:*

I'm ordering also the *Monsoon Light Port 90° Rotary Angle Adapter* but I only find them with *3/4" OD* or *5/8" OD*

are these available in *1/2" OD* ?

1/2" OD is more compatible with 3rd party PETG tubings and fittings


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *Question:*
> 
> I'm ordering also the *Monsoon Light Port 90° Rotary Angle Adapter* but I only find them with *3/4" OD* or *5/8" OD*
> 
> are these available in *1/2" OD* ?
> 
> 1/2" OD is more compatible with 3rd party PETG tubings and fittings


*ANSWER*

No, the Lightports are NOT available in 1/2" OD (20mm).

In my case I drilled and tapped them to 1/2", but it is not recommended. I would definitely go up one size in both fittings and tubing


----------



## Radnad

A little something I'm trying to work out for my sig rig. Hopefully goes well with the theme and looks like a small power plant.


----------



## paultoke

Nice


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> A little something I'm trying to work out for my sig rig. Hopefully goes well with the theme and looks like a small power plant.


Cool...that actually DOES look like a little power station. The little cube pump looks like a junction box or utility building "ish".


----------



## BoxGods

Just a little update on the fitting plugs. I got production parts n today for taking product pictures. Tinkered with them on a few different reservoir configurations and I personally think they are so cool I wonder why we didn't do these years ago. I may never use a "regular" stop plug again =)

Also got to see the custom YAG laser etched EV2 samples and was really pleased as they look amazing in person. It is just hard to take pictures of them that convey the "cool" factor.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> A little something I'm trying to work out for my sig rig. Hopefully goes well with the theme and looks like a small power plant.


that thing looks like a power core from fallout....i like it a lot...with a green tube it would fit in my build well


----------



## Deedaz

I ordered a 300mm UV plug for my res. Got it installed, turned it on and it looked great, but needed to be in another port to look right. Well....these things are really fragile and it snapped in half as I was trying to get it out







Should have known better than to just order one, I have terrible luck when it comes to lighting.


----------



## Mega Man

That really sucks :/


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I ordered a 300mm UV plug for my res. Got it installed, turned it on and it looked great, but needed to be in another port to look right. Well....these things are really fragile and it snapped in half as I was trying to get it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should have known better than to just order one, I have terrible luck when it comes to lighting.


Just RMA it. But yes having a backup is always handy.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I ordered a 300mm UV plug for my res. Got it installed, turned it on and it looked great, but needed to be in another port to look right. Well....these things are really fragile and it snapped in half as I was trying to get it out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Should have known better than to just order one, I have terrible luck when it comes to lighting.
> 
> 
> 
> Just RMA it. But yes having a backup is always handy.
Click to expand...

I won't RMA something that I screwed up, especially with such a low price tag. I was in a hurry and trying to hold the radiators apart so I could get to the ports on top the res and accidentally put pressure on the light bar as I was pulling it out.







I would order another one if the shipping wasn't over $8 for a $7 part. You should see the box it came in lol. I could fit a couple encyclopedias in that monster!
Also, my plan to sell this rig to my brother may not end up working out so I may end up rebuilding the lantern in my s8, which would require a smaller res section. Or, I could eat the extra cost and switch the color scheme for the new case, I already have cables made for it.


----------



## AllGamer

try looking for LED alternatives that fits in the same slot.

I stopped using Cathode lights for my builds a long time ago, due exactly that very same problem, it's too easy to break them accidentally.


----------



## eucalyptus

I have some INSANE stuff to show you later tonight, which I bet you all are looking more than forward to see!!!












































For now, I can only whisper "EV2"


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I have some INSANE stuff to show you later tonight, which I bet you all are looking more than forward to see!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For now, I can only whisper "EV2"


They finally showed up I take it? I had one of yours sent to me just to check it out and I was pretty amazed too at how they look n person.


----------



## eucalyptus

Okay people, here it comes!! About time to show some incredible fashion!
















I do also just want to point, noneless my Cambridge Advanced English exam, my English grammar is still a huge issue, so please keep in mind I am a Swede doing my best before you get angry
















Gene (BoxGods) sent me some of his new EV2 (Economical Version 2) which I choose to design with my leaves and he later etched them with their laser.

Results? Well, OH MY GOD! I loved the green before, but now, holy moly, man, I cannot describe the awesomeness.

I let the pictures talk for themselves, hope you like them, I have a super-homemade-temporary-photo-studio-ish&#8230;

Gene, if you want the pictures I can email the original files without watermark to you









http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846730/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846731/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846732/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846733/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846734/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846735/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846736/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846737/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846738/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846739/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846740/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846741/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846742/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846743/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846744/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846745/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846746/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846747/

So the fittings comes with 3 different types of O-rings for different thickness of tube. I found the Yellow ones to fit Monsoon 13mm tubing the best. I guess you probably could use Primochill tubing now or some other brand if you want to and use the other O-rings. Although, I tried a piece of tube from Primochill I had laying around, and I couldn't get it to fit very well at all - didn't put any time to it though!

The fittings use double O-rings inside the fitting. And then you close everything with a cone-shape in hard plastic as shown in the pictures. Also, the fittings do not have a HEXagon inside to tighten them down, they do instead use the tool to tighten them down from above with the "marks" - well you get it from the pictures























A few things to have in mind. It seems that it is very very difficult to get the exact same template/picture you designed in Adobe Illustrator down to the fitting. The leaves aren't exactly as I painted them Illustrator, but in my case it just turned out to the better. Or it could be my useless skills in Adobe, I am really really bad at design/painting so the structure behind the template could be made wrong from my side.

And the etching is more like "brown-ish" than gold. If that has something to do with the laser going through the green - I don't know. - still in my case it just turned out to be better.

As you can see the different O-rings sizes are in 3 different colors and 3 different bags. KEEP IN MIND! Please be aware and really don't mess this up by opening them and somehow mix them with each other or in any way make it worse - it really is a pain in the head trying to keep the bags in different places and really put fittings with one kind of O-ring in one corner of the room and another one in the other corner just to no mistakenly mixing them.


----------



## AllGamer

Very nice details on those hard tube fittings.


----------



## BoxGods

Some quick notes on the new fittings:

My intent with the design was to tackle some of the "weaknesses" of typical push in type fittings. First, the tube normally pulls out far too easily--this is not a critique of any brand specifically--our original Economy fittings had the same issue. It is just the nature of push in type fittings. The second is how the tube can wobble a bit in a typical push in type fitting. Both of these issues are because the O-ring/s create the seal side of the tube rather than on the end of the tube, which is really how O-rings are supposed to work as they like to be in compression.

I wanted to use a ferrule (the hard plastic "cone shaped" plastic ring) that compressed down on the tube and gripped it securely for better resistance to pull out, but the fairly large variation in tube OD between brands, production batches, and even within the same batches sometimes, made it impossible to have a single ring size that worked correctly. If you notice on the template, the fitting will work well on any tube OD from 11.8mm to 13.2mm. You insert the end of the tube into the notch and then slide it down. The sides of the slot are color coded with purple, yellow, and green zones. You check where the tube is touching and use the parts from the color-matched bag.

This system gives you excellent pull-out resistance and very little tube wobble. Just to be clear, the custom etching is optional and is user supplied artwork.

.


----------



## BoxGods

Those leaves are etched down to the copper layer and over time the leaves should patina to a beautiful greenish tint. They will get even more beautiful over time man =)

I think they are going to match your build theme really well.


----------



## Mega Man

I am very impressed


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am very impressed


I got tired of everyone *****ing (rightfully so) that I don't include instructions--well there ya go


----------



## Mega Man

Nah we just whine due to the website the BP website is awesome but slow ...


----------



## BoxGods

yeah yeah yeah...I will get around to updating the site one of these moons


----------



## Ceadderman

Those fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Performance has ordered EV2 fittings. Should have them in 10 - 14 days. They also want to do a little design contest for etch designs. Be thinking of cool stuff. I will post details when they are ironed out.


----------



## elcr9

Hello

I have a little concern for the vertical mount. Is it strong enough to hold the following set up?

D5 cap - 50mm tube - coupler - 250mm tube - end cap

Thanks!


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance has ordered EV2 fittings. Should have them in 10 - 14 days. They also want to do a little design contest for etch designs. Be thinking of cool stuff. I will post details when they are ironed out.


I plan on making good on my promise... Guess I'll just wait til after the first few weeks for the rush to die down.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elcr9*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I have a little concern for the vertical mount. Is it strong enough to hold the following set up?
> 
> *D5 cap - 50mm tube - coupler - 250mm tube - end cap*
> 
> Thanks!


I think you forgot to 1 thing...

D5 cap - *D5 pump* - 50mm tube - coupler - 250mm tube - end cap










that's a very tall reservoir setup close to 400mm (40ish + 50 + 250 + 30ish)

does your case have any obstruction free area to mount that?

size reference:
D5 End Cap HxW 32 x 75mm
D5 Motor Cover HxW 48 x 75


----------



## elcr9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> I think you forgot to 1 thing...
> 
> D5 cap - *D5 pump* - 50mm tube - coupler - 250mm tube - end cap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's a very tall reservoir setup close to 400mm (40ish + 50 + 250 + 30ish)
> 
> does your case have any obstruction free area to mount that?
> 
> size reference:
> D5 End Cap HxW 32 x 75mm
> D5 Motor Cover HxW 48 x 75










Totally forgot the pump.

I am going to mount the res in an external rad box that is almost 500mm tall, so there would be plenty of space for the res.









My concern is that the vertical mount may not hold a res that tall....


----------



## Unnatural

Is overclockers.co.uk still the only european resellers? (They don't ship to Italy







)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elcr9*
> 
> Hello
> 
> I have a little concern for the vertical mount. Is it strong enough to hold the following set up?
> 
> D5 cap - 50mm tube - coupler - 250mm tube - end cap
> 
> Thanks!


The mount is 3mm steel so it should be fine as far as the weight is concerned. The length might be a concern if you are not planning on another fixed point. You might want to consider using an FDP on the other end--would make filling/topping off/draining easier anyway. They also look really cool.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Is overclockers.co.uk still the only european resellers? (They don't ship to Italy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Yes. You might want to shoot your favorite reseller an email and ask them to stock MMRS =)


----------



## Ginja ninja

Hi everyone!

I decided to go for a hardline setup in my Phantetk Evolve ATX with an Asus Z170 s mobo and when I saw the Monsonn MMRS I thought, I gotta get me some of that in white! Unfortunately my experience so far has been one of frustration









First off, I ordered some Monsoon economy fittings as I did not fancy using adhesive and was sent the free centre fittings. The company made a mistake with listing so I have to go with these as I cannot find the ones I want from any supplier in the UK and I had already ordered the Monsoon PETG tubing. I assume I can use the free centre fittings with PETG?

I received my goodies from Overclockers yesterday. The design is impeccable and it looks fantastic!

2 - Monsoon MMRS Reservoir Mount 25mm - White
1 - Monsoon Free Center Hardline 1/2 X 5/8 (16mm) 6 Pack - Black Chrome
1 - Monsoon MMRS Dual Bulb CCFL Light for 150mm Tube - White
1 - Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 150mm - Clear
1 - Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black
1 - Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Cover - White
1 - Monsoon MMRS Tension Rods 150mm - White
1 - Monsoon MMRS Single Port End Cap - Black

Secondly, my beef is attaching the pump cover to the D5 pump top, it just would not screw in so I tried it without the pump and it started to screw in and then jammed. I was careful not to force it or cross thread it but it is going no where. Overclockers are happy to RMA it.



Thirdly, CCFL. If I realised getting a CCFL inverter that would not burn down my rig would be such a hassle I would not have bothered and gone for some led lights and the three port top to pop them in. I asked Overclockers if they intend to stock the inverter when Monsoon release it and was told they had no plans to do so. Why sell the lights if you don't sell a way of powering them?









This has not put me off doing my loop and using Monsoon products and I'm sorry if my first post is a bit of a moan.

Regards

Jeremy


----------



## RobbieG-OcUK

Hi,

Our returns department was incorrect in telling you we will not be stocking the Inverters as we have them on order at the moment. Hopefully they just meant No ETA.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I decided to go for a hardline setup in my Phantetk Evolve ATX with an Asus Z170 s mobo and when I saw the Monsonn MMRS I thought, I gotta get me some of that in white! Unfortunately my experience so far has been one of frustration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, I ordered some Monsoon economy fittings as I did not fancy using adhesive and was sent the free centre fittings. The company made a mistake with listing so I have to go with these as I cannot find the ones I want from any supplier in the UK and I had already ordered the Monsoon PETG tubing. I assume I can use the free centre fittings with PETG?
> 
> I received my goodies from Overclockers yesterday. The design is impeccable and it looks fantastic!
> 
> 2 - Monsoon MMRS Reservoir Mount 25mm - White
> 1 - Monsoon Free Center Hardline 1/2 X 5/8 (16mm) 6 Pack - Black Chrome
> 1 - Monsoon MMRS Dual Bulb CCFL Light for 150mm Tube - White
> 1 - Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 150mm - Clear
> 1 - Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black
> 1 - Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Cover - White
> 1 - Monsoon MMRS Tension Rods 150mm - White
> 1 - Monsoon MMRS Single Port End Cap - Black
> 
> Secondly, my beef is attaching the pump cover to the D5 pump top, it just would not screw in so I tried it without the pump and it started to screw in and then jammed. I was careful not to force it or cross thread it but it is going no where. Overclockers are happy to RMA it.
> 
> 
> 
> Thirdly, CCFL. If I realised getting a CCFL inverter that would not burn down my rig would be such a hassle I would not have bothered and gone for some led lights and the three port top to pop them in. I asked Overclockers if they intend to stock the inverter when Monsoon release it and was told they had no plans to do so. Why sell the lights if you don't sell a way of powering them?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This has not put me off doing my loop and using Monsoon products and I'm sorry if my first post is a bit of a moan.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Jeremy


taking it from memory i think the delay was due to a last minute problem with the inverters that box gods quickly remedied but delayed their availability...i think they also put out an extender ring for those using d5 pumps to allow that extra space...boxgods will chime in shortly to confirm or deny what ive said


----------



## Ginja ninja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobbieG-OcUK*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Our returns department was incorrect in telling you we will not be stocking the Inverters as we have them on order at the moment. Hopefully they just meant No ETA.


Thanks for the update! Just to clarify, it was sales who gave me the info, your Returns team have been very helpful so a big







to them.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobbieG-OcUK*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Our returns department was incorrect in telling you we will not be stocking the Inverters as we have them on order at the moment. Hopefully they just meant No ETA.


I can 100% confirm this. OCUK HAS ordered the inverters--the delay is on our part, not theirs. We found a small issue in the new inverters where the SATA plug on the PCB can tear free id too muck pressure is applied in an upward motion. We destroyed the production run and are making up a new batch with a different type of SMT SATA plug. I apologize for the delay, but I like for things to be as right as I can get them. We are doing our best to get the inverters out as quickly as we can and I will update here as we progress.


----------



## BoxGods

On the pump top--it is almost always an issue getting the threads started evenly (not cross threaded). If you hold the tube and pump top as evenly as you can and turn the mounting tube backwards slowly you will eventually feel it sort of "click" into place and then you can reverse and it should screw on correctly.

There are a few videos on our channel that cover this. You can start here:






Also, the lock collars work fine with PETG tube so you are all set. OCUK will also be adding the new Version 2 Economy fittings at some point. We are still trying to catch up on US back orders.


----------



## Ginja ninja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> On the pump top--it is almost always an issue getting the threads started evenly (not cross threaded). If you hold the tube and pump top as evenly as you can and turn the mounting tube backwards slowly you will eventually feel it sort of "click" into place and then you can reverse and it should screw on correctly.
> 
> There are a few videos on our channel that cover this. You can start here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the lock collars work fine with PETG tube so you are all set. OCUK will also be adding the new Version 2 Economy fittings at some point. We are still trying to catch up on US back orders.


I received the replacement pump top and cover, hats off to Overclockers for great customer service! The new one screwed together lovely jubbly and is being leak tested. First of all I placed the seal on the pump instead of in the pump top and realised my error when water started pouring out. I'm sure that won't be my last Homer moment ?

Thank you for confirming the tubing will work with the collars. Guess what I will be doing this weekend...

I appreciate you wanting to get the inverters right, it says a lot about the integrity of a company when you are prepared to take a hit rather than release something half baked.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> I received the replacement pump top and cover, hats off to Overclockers for great customer service! The new one screwed together lovely jubbly and is being leak tested. First of all I placed the seal on the pump instead of in the pump top and realised my error when water started pouring out. I'm sure that won't be my last Homer moment ?
> 
> Thank you for confirming the tubing will work with the collars. Guess what I will be doing this weekend...
> 
> I appreciate you wanting to get the inverters right, it says a lot about the integrity of a company when you are prepared to take a hit rather than release something half baked.


If you're bending tube for the first time I would spend some time with our how-to videos. They cover the lock collars, measuring tube, cutting it...and of course bending.

Just remember to enjoy yourself as it actually is a lot of fun.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q


----------



## ruffhi

I've decided to draw a line under my build. Some items remain on the wish list ... and I will get around to those as and when I can.

The build features a Monsoon reservoir (you can see the fill top in the picture below) and monsoon fittings (econ v1). I am still working on my hard tube bending skills ... the flex tube will be replaced at some point.










CaseLabs S5 with Pedestal
Motherboard: ASUS X99-M WS
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz
RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4 3200
Liquid cooled with 2 x 360 rads, Monsoon reservoir, heatkiller IV CPU block, Cryorig fans up the wazoo

More pictures in my build log.


----------



## HaPPyCaMPer75

Not finished but look at that fogged uv blue rez.... She's beautiful!!! And that's with only 2 of his uv cathode inserts! Planned for 3 but broke one ?
Still building ofcourse, used his rigid 16mm tube bending kit too


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've decided to draw a line under my build. Some items remain on the wish list ... and I will get around to those as and when I can.
> 
> The build features a Monsoon reservoir (you can see the fill top in the picture below) and monsoon fittings (econ v1). I am still working on my hard tube bending skills ... the flex tube will be replaced at some point.
> 
> CaseLabs S5 with Pedestal
> Motherboard: ASUS X99-M WS
> CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz
> RAM: G.SKILL TridentZ Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) DDR4 3200
> Liquid cooled with 2 x 360 rads, Monsoon reservoir, heatkiller IV CPU block, Cryorig fans up the wazoo
> 
> More pictures in my build log.


I have to ask about the name...likely some cultural reference I am too old to know about


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HaPPyCaMPer75*
> 
> 
> 
> Not finished but look at that fogged uv blue rez.... She's beautiful!!! And that's with only 2 of his uv cathode inserts! Planned for 3 but broke one ?
> Still building ofcourse, used his rigid 16mm tube bending kit too


Now you know why I am not a big fan of LED lighting in tube reservoirs. The CCFL's are a bit of a hassle sometimes but you get a lot of very even light. LED's tend to have an uneven look in tubes because there is just not a lot of "throw" distance for the individual LED's to even out.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have to ask about the name...likely some cultural reference I am too old to know about


Liquorice Allsorts are a lollie / candy / sweet that combines liquorice (the black parts below) with colorful candy parts (the colored parts). It is soft and chewy ... and yummy.

Another favorite of mine is bullets (chocolate covered liquorice).

Both are very English / Australian / Commonwealth.

If you have been to Sweden, then you might know about diams (chocolate covered toffee).

So ... it probably isn't age related ... it is probably geographical.


----------



## Benjiw

Can anyone explain why I'm getting fractures in my tubing and should I swap it out? It's next to my psu and i'm really struggling to understand why it's doing this?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can anyone explain why I'm getting fractures in my tubing and should I swap it out? It's next to my psu and i'm really struggling to understand why it's doing this?


is that Acrylic or PETG?

it could be due over tighten pressure, or due the Heat crack from nearby high heat components
PSU usually have fans to blow out the heat, so it might be something else causing it, if it's due heat.

that appear to be a video card block, GPU due generate crazy amount of heat.


----------



## Malum

I'm pretty sure(100%) that it is pmma tubing. Petg tubing wouldn't just starting to crack like that.

Back when I first build my current pc I also did all my tubing in acrylic and 1 tube(straight one, no bends) also did this cracking, allthough it didn't leaked I desided to redo all my tubing in Petg instead just to calm my nerves. And to this day I'm so glad I did 'cause I haven't had any issues with it since.


----------



## Benjiw

I think I over tightened the collar then because heat shouldn't be an issue and I think I'm being over zealous with the wrench.


----------



## Revan654

Is their any way to mount those res to a radiator or another way? The only place room for a res is behind my radiator or drilling holes into my new Case-Labs Case (Which I don't want to do unless I must).


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Is their any way to mount those res to a radiator or another way? The only place room for a res is behind my radiator or drilling holes into my new Case-Labs Case (Which I don't want to do unless I must).


some pictures might help, a CaseLab case is usually huge for most applications, if it's lacking space, you might need to re-position the res to another location to make things fit right, so a picture can tell better, as your description is rather vague


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> some pictures might help, a CaseLab case is usually huge for most applications, if it's lacking space, you might need to re-position the res to another location to make things fit right, so a picture can tell better, as your description is rather vague


Right now, Theirs zero hardware in the case. a Picture would not help much right now. If it helps I have a SM8 with a 360 rad in front (60mm) and a 480 Rad up top (60mm).


----------



## Mega Man

I could be wrong but I think they either have a res mounting plate or holes for it.

A res mounting plate is an inexpensive plate that is made to hold the res and inexpensive so it can be easily / cheaply replaced


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Right now, Theirs zero hardware in the case. a Picture would not help much right now. If it helps I have a SM8 with a 360 rad in front (60mm) and a 480 Rad up top (60mm).


Did you order the *Flex Bay 120.3* (360mm) rad mount for the front?



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I could be wrong but I think they either have a res mounting plate or holes for it.
> 
> A res mounting plate is an inexpensive plate that is made to hold the res and inexpensive so it can be easily / cheaply replaced


Correct, if during purchase the option was selected, then it should be installed like this http://www.caselabs-store.com/flex-bay-120-3-360-fan-radiator-mount/


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Is their any way to mount those res to a radiator or another way? The only place room for a res is behind my radiator or drilling holes into my new Case-Labs Case (Which I don't want to do unless I must).


There are supposed to be MMRS radiator mounts, not sure why they're not at PPCS yet, maybe BoxGods can shed some light?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/2740#post_25360138

But I'm shocked to hear that the be all and end all of cases might need a hole drilled to mount something, /gasp!

/sarcoff


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> There are supposed to be MMRS radiator mounts, not sure why they're not at PPCS yet, maybe BoxGods can shed some light?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/2740#post_25360138
> 
> But I'm shocked to hear that the be all and end all of cases might need a hole drilled to mount something, /gasp!
> 
> /sarcoff


I only have PPCS to check on MonSoon products & Amazon for Fittings (Which I may use with this build, still read up on their fittings & planning my Loop).

I don't know many Watercooling stores that Ships to US. I only know PPCS, Dazmode (CA) & Modmymods. I have no idea if FrozenCPU is open again or not(After that giant mess).

Allot of Case-Labs Cases have plates, which allows you to make your own Res holes (Then attach it back to the case) or use the back of the Flex-Bay. The Plates are for the bigger cases SMA8 or bigger. I have SM8, I could upgrade it to SMA8. I just got this case a week ago, have no plans to make it even bigger.

I think 22" is plenty for a PC case(Anything over Is a bit overkill). The next size up is 26/27" height/depth.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Can anyone explain why I'm getting fractures in my tubing and should I swap it out? It's next to my psu and i'm really struggling to understand why it's doing this?


The downside to acrylic is that it is very brittle--meaning it is prone to cracking in some situations. The most common causes are chemicals like alcohol that you find in window cleaning solutions like Windex. Heat-induced stresses can also be "built into" the plastic when you heat it to make bends. This happens from uneven heating and cooling cycles or rapid heating / cooling. Acrylic can also crack because of vibration fatigue--being close to your PSU may have more vibration.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> I'm pretty sure(100%) that it is pmma tubing. Petg tubing wouldn't just starting to crack like that.
> 
> Back when I first build my current pc I also did all my tubing in acrylic and 1 tube(straight one, no bends) also did this cracking, allthough it didn't leaked I desided to redo all my tubing in Petg instead just to calm my nerves. And to this day I'm so glad I did 'cause I haven't had any issues with it since.


I have come around to PETG for the same reason. Just a LOT more forgiving and it can take a ton of abuse. The only downside to PETG is that you can't really polish out scratches so you need to handle it with a bit more care.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Is their any way to mount those res to a radiator or another way? The only place room for a res is behind my radiator or drilling holes into my new Case-Labs Case (Which I don't want to do unless I must).


The Radiator mounting kits are done and ready to ship. I think PPCS has already ordered them so they should go out with their next shipment. Figure 10 to 14 days "ish".


----------



## BoxGods

Sorry I have been scarce the last week guys. I had a little toothache and went to the dentist. Ended up spending 4 or 5 hours in the chair because the roots of an upper molar were pushing into a "sinus". It was the most painful dentists visit I have ever had by FAR. It was so bad that while I was in the waiting room afterwards and the dentist was explaining all the meds to my wife the pain got so bad I just sat down on the floor to keep from falling over. They took me back to the chair and gave me a shot of the super duper all day novocaine.

Just now getting to where I can function.


----------



## djnsmith7

Gene, sorry to hear about the painful experience. Hope you're feeling better.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sorry I have been scarce the last week guys. I had a little toothache and went to the dentist. Ended up spending 4 or 5 hours in the chair because the roots of an upper molar were pushing into a "sinus". It was the most painful dentists visit I have ever had by FAR. It was so bad that while I was in the waiting room afterwards and the dentist was explaining all the meds to my wife the pain got so bad I just sat down on the floor to keep from falling over. They took me back to the chair and gave me a shot of the super duper all day novocaine.
> 
> Just now getting to where I can function.


Ouch!... wish you a speedy recovery.
Jump into some games and forget about the pain for a few hours


----------



## BoxGods

Thanks guys =) I am almost back to "normal". Can't chew on that side for a while but feeling human again.

Trying to catch up on my email etc. and get rad mounts and fitting plugs shipped.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Thanks guys =) I am almost back to "normal". Can't chew on that side for a while but feeling human again.
> 
> Trying to catch up on my email etc. and get rad mounts and fitting plugs shipped.


When you can't chew, sip beer, make sure to use a BIG straw! Oh and it's a natural pain killer too. ;p


----------



## AllGamer

Question for any of you that might know.

So, I'm planning to pick up a couple of MMRS reservoir with the D5 Pump mount that attaches to the reservoir and the end cover for the motor.
(PPC got a nice selection in stock)

Are these compatible with EK D5 stand alone pumps?

EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor (12V DC PWM Pump Motor) https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor

Because I've seen many D5 pumps from different brands, and they are all slightly different, so not sure if the pump reservoir attachment, and pump cover is 1 size fits all, or if it's only for specific models of D5 motors.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The downside to acrylic is that it is very brittle--meaning it is prone to cracking in some situations. The most common causes are chemicals like alcohol that you find in window cleaning solutions like Windex. Heat-induced stresses can also be "built into" the plastic when you heat it to make bends. This happens from uneven heating and cooling cycles or rapid heating / cooling. Acrylic can also crack because of vibration fatigue--being close to your PSU may have more vibration.


Might be from a bit of tubing I did some bends on I can't remember, I'm not too fussed as I'll just get some collars for when I upgrade to skylake. My biggest concern however is, should I leave it in or should I remove it and use some soft tubing for the time being? Is it going to crack and break any more?


----------



## figgie

question around these reservoir

does monsoon make a connector that is compatible with an Ehiem/Aquacomputer Aquastream pump?

as an example, like the Alphacool "all-in-one"?


----------



## Ginja ninja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Question for any of you that might know.
> 
> So, I'm planning to pick up a couple of MMRS reservoir with the D5 Pump mount that attaches to the reservoir and the end cover for the motor.
> (PPC got a nice selection in stock)
> 
> Are these compatible with EK D5 stand alone pumps?
> 
> EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor (12V DC PWM Pump Motor) https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor
> 
> Because I've seen many D5 pumps from different brands, and they are all slightly different, so not sure if the pump reservoir attachment, and pump cover is 1 size fits all, or if it's only for specific models of D5 motors.


Hi Allgamer!

Not sure if this helps but I am using an Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump and it fits no problem.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Question for any of you that might know.
> 
> So, I'm planning to pick up a couple of MMRS reservoir with the D5 Pump mount that attaches to the reservoir and the end cover for the motor.
> (PPC got a nice selection in stock)
> 
> Are these compatible with EK D5 stand alone pumps?
> 
> EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor (12V DC PWM Pump Motor) https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor
> 
> Because I've seen many D5 pumps from different brands, and they are all slightly different, so not sure if the pump reservoir attachment, and pump cover is 1 size fits all, or if it's only for specific models of D5 motors.


All D5's are the same in dimension, the only variations are the circuit boards that control the pump. Any D5 you pick will work fine.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> Hi Allgamer!
> 
> Not sure if this helps but I am using an Aquacomputer D5 PWM pump and it fits no problem.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> All D5's are the same in dimension, the only variations are the circuit boards that control the pump. Any D5 you pick will work fine.


Thanks to both, much appreciated.

*@Ginja ninja*
since you are using an Aquacomputer...

Do you know if the Aquacomputer display / fan controller can handle 3 to 4 D5 pumps ?

After looking at a lot of 5.25 Bay controllers for water cooling I kind of like the Aquacomputer design the best with the graphical LED, problem is I'm not sure if it can handle that many pumps and fans (10 sets of 3x 120mm).

--- EDIT ---
NVM, I found it http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/0_50


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I think I over tightened the collar then because heat shouldn't be an issue and I think I'm being over zealous with the wrench.


Sounds like you overtightened the collar and being next to the PSU it's a good point for vibration.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Question for any of you that might know.
> 
> So, I'm planning to pick up a couple of MMRS reservoir with the D5 Pump mount that attaches to the reservoir and the end cover for the motor.
> (PPC got a nice selection in stock)
> 
> Are these compatible with EK D5 stand alone pumps?
> 
> EK-D5 PWM G2 Motor (12V DC PWM Pump Motor) https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-g2-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor
> 
> Because I've seen many D5 pumps from different brands, and they are all slightly different, so not sure if the pump reservoir attachment, and pump cover is 1 size fits all, or if it's only for specific models of D5 motors.


Yup =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Might be from a bit of tubing I did some bends on I can't remember, I'm not too fussed as I'll just get some collars for when I upgrade to skylake. My biggest concern however is, should I leave it in or should I remove it and use some soft tubing for the time being? Is it going to crack and break any more?


It depends on a few variables. Is it directly over something "expensive" aka a mobo or video card? My unofficial opinion would be to monitor it every day or two and watch for water droplets forming. If you are asking if it will suddenly burst and have catastrophic "gushing" that is not likely. If you cart the rig around a lot to LAN's etc. I would switch it for soft tube. Otherwise just keep an eye on it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *figgie*
> 
> question around these reservoir
> 
> does monsoon make a connector that is compatible with an Ehiem/Aquacomputer Aquastream pump?
> 
> as an example, like the Alphacool "all-in-one"?


Not familiar with that pump...anyone else know off the top of their heads?


----------



## AllGamer

Does anyone know the Width of the MMRS reservoir cylinders? are they 60mm? 70mm?

Thanks


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does anyone know the Width of the MMRS reservoir cylinders? are they 60mm? 70mm?
> 
> Thanks


The tubes are 60, but with the end caps the overall is 77mm.


----------



## Ginja ninja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Does anyone know the Width of the MMRS reservoir cylinders? are they 60mm? 70mm?
> 
> Thanks


60mm diameter for the cylinder. I'm not sure of the diameter of the tops but would have a guess at 80mm. I'm on my way to work so will have a ganders when I get home.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> 60mm diameter for the cylinder. I'm not sure of the diameter of the tops but would have a guess at 80mm. I'm on my way to work so will have a ganders when I get home.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The tubes are 60, but with the end caps the overall is 77mm.


Great! thanks for the info

That was actually going to be my next question









Many of the sites that list the Monsoon products only list the height, but not the width, or viceversa.

I'm trying to fit as many reservoirs as I can behind the S8 front window, which is aprox 240mm by 120mm









I'm thinking going either 2x in parallel vertically, or 3 maybe 4 in parallel horizontally, or maybe something more crazy and do a combination of both









that's the fun part of the MMRS res modularity, you can come up with something unique in every built.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like you overtightened the collar and being next to the PSU it's a good point for vibration.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Vibrations isn't possible, my fan only comes on when I'm gaming and even then it doesn't cause vibration. I'm going to say I ham fisted the collar and that's what's caused it to crack.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It depends on a few variables. Is it directly over something "expensive" aka a mobo or video card? My unofficial opinion would be to monitor it every day or two and watch for water droplets forming. If you are asking if it will suddenly burst and have catastrophic "gushing" that is not likely. If you cart the rig around a lot to LAN's etc. I would switch it for soft tube. Otherwise just keep an eye on it.


I'll swap it for some soft tube, I'm upgrading to skylake next month so I will need to re-do my bends etc so I'm best off getting some new collars and tubing.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> 60mm diameter for the cylinder. I'm not sure of the diameter of the tops but would have a guess at 80mm. I'm on my way to work so will have a ganders when I get home.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The tubes are 60, but with the end caps the overall is 77mm.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Great! thanks for the info
> 
> That was actually going to be my next question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Many of the sites that list the Monsoon products only list the height, but not the width, or viceversa.
> 
> I'm trying to fit as many reservoirs as I can behind the S8 front window, which is aprox 240mm by 120mm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm thinking going either 2x in parallel vertically, or 3 maybe 4 in parallel horizontally, or maybe something more crazy and do a combination of both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that's the fun part of the MMRS res modularity, you can come up with something unique in every built.
Click to expand...

This has been posted a couple if times berfore but here it is again. Save for future use.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> This has been posted a couple if times berfore but here it is again. Save for future use.


Thank you!, this will come in handy.


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I think I over tightened the collar then because heat shouldn't be an issue and I think I'm being over zealous with the wrench.


You also need to ensure you are lined up properly with the fitting. If you are too far off the collar and the tube get a lot of pressure. I had a similar problem prior to the newer collars.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> Vibrations isn't possible, my fan only comes on when I'm gaming and even then it doesn't cause vibration. I'm going to say I ham fisted the collar and that's what's caused it to crack.
> I'll swap it for some soft tube, I'm upgrading to skylake next month so I will need to re-do my bends etc so I'm best off getting some new collars and tubing.


I had similar cracking issues. I believe they were caused by the tube being slightly misaligned and it placed too much pressure on the tube and lock collar.

I kept an eye on the cracks and did not have a problem for the year they were installed. They didn't expand nor did they leak. Once I dismantled it, I did notice some micro-leaks because of the misalignment. These occurred at the seal and not the cracks.


----------



## figgie

Hi Boxgod,

sent you a PM


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> You also need to ensure you are lined up properly with the fitting. If you are too far off the collar and the tube get a lot of pressure. I had a similar problem prior to the newer collars.
> I had similar cracking issues. I believe they were caused by the tube being slightly misaligned and it placed too much pressure on the tube and lock collar.
> 
> I kept an eye on the cracks and did not have a problem for the year they were installed. They didn't expand nor did they leak. Once I dismantled it, I did notice some micro-leaks because of the misalignment. These occurred at the seal and not the cracks.


I have other bends that aren't perfectly aligned but they're perfectly fine, no cracks or issues, one of them has a lot more pressure on it than the GPU so I'm going to say its down to me overtightening the collar and either poor heating an cooling cycles when I used the tubing. It's fine, i'm not overly bothered it's part and parcel of having a custom loop but was just concerned about leaks.

Like said I'm upgrading to skylake in september so I need to change my loop regardless.


----------



## Mega Man

Still waiting for a place to buy economy v2 fittings in the us :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *figgie*
> 
> question around these reservoir
> 
> does monsoon make a connector that is compatible with an Ehiem/Aquacomputer Aquastream pump?
> 
> as an example, like the Alphacool "all-in-one"?
> 
> 
> 
> Not familiar with that pump...anyone else know off the top of their heads?
Click to expand...

No you will need the adapter to g1/4 then use normal fittings from there


----------



## Revan654

Bought the MMRS last night. Looking forward to seeing the quality of the item. So many choices to pick from when ordering parts.

Also any idea when the radiators mounts will be available in the US?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Bought the MMRS last night. Looking forward to seeing the quality of the item. So many choices to pick from when ordering parts.
> 
> Also any idea when the radiators mounts will be available in the US?


They are ready now. Performance should have them go out with their next shipment. Figure a few weeks. Sooner if possible of course.


----------



## paultoke

Still cant get end caps in white for the res and D5 stand alone pump in the uk.

Need these for the build I'm doing Arctic Warfare


----------



## Benjiw

I've overlooked that my d5 pump is providing vibrations to the tube that had stress cracks but I'm still going with an error on my part with heating the tubing as a possible cause. Time will tell as I'll have funds in 4 weeks to get more tubing etc.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> Still cant get end caps in white for the res and D5 stand alone pump in the uk.
> 
> Need these for the build I'm doing Arctic Warfare


Your best bet is to email OCUK and ask them to stock the white parts--they are fairly responsive to customer requests.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I've overlooked that my d5 pump is providing vibrations to the tube that had stress cracks but I'm still going with an error on my part with heating the tubing as a possible cause. Time will tell as I'll have funds in 4 weeks to get more tubing etc.


That is likely correct as acrylic is susceptible to stress induced cracking. When you heat and cool the tube multiple times each cycle "builds in" stresses in the plastic because it is heated and cooled unevenly--it is not something you specifically are doing as it is just really REALLY hard to heat and cool evenly outside of a specially designed annealing oven.

I tell people if you have to heat acrylic tube a 3rd time you are probably going to see some cracks--maybe not right away but at some point down the road plan on it. PETG is much better, or maybe more forgiving, as it is not prone to cracking issues.


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Your best bet is to email OCUK and ask them to stock the white parts--they are fairly responsive to customer requests.


Robbie got back and said they could be on the next order so about a month away.
Worst scenario I'll have to get them from Performance pc's again.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That is likely correct as acrylic is susceptible to stress induced cracking. When you heat and cool the tube multiple times each cycle "builds in" stresses in the plastic because it is heated and cooled unevenly--it is not something you specifically are doing as it is just really REALLY hard to heat and cool evenly outside of a specially designed annealing oven.
> 
> I tell people if you have to heat acrylic tube a 3rd time you are probably going to see some cracks--maybe not right away but at some point down the road plan on it. PETG is much better, or maybe more forgiving, as it is not prone to cracking issues.


I'm really not sold on PETG as it's got it's own drawbacks like you can't use certain coolant in it, it isn't as clear some have said too? I want the clarity and the ability to dump some coolant in there and not have to worry.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I'm really not sold on PETG as it's got it's own drawbacks like you can't use certain coolant in it, it isn't as clear some have said too? I want the clarity and the ability to dump some coolant in there and not have to worry.


Strictly speaking, it is not as clear. That said it is very close--so close most people could not see it with their naked eye, or see a difference, even side by side. You certainly could not see the difference from two feet away inside a case...I can't anyway and my vision is 20/15.

The biggest drawback (to me anyway) is that it can't be polished as easily as acrylic. If you scratch it...you are fairly screwed. If you are reasonably good at bending tube it is fine. For everyone else I recommend PETG. We sell both types of tube so I am not basing my recommendation on that.


----------



## AllGamer

*@BoxGods* or anyone that might know.

I'm trying to setup the following MMRS:

MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED *(5mm ?)*
+
MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
+
MONSOON MMRS MATE KIT- WHITE *(3mm ?)*
+
MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
+
MONSOON MMRS FROSTED REACTOR CORE ACRYLIC TUBE 50MM - CLEAR (50mm)
MONSOON MMRS 50MM TENSION RODS - RED
+
MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
+
MONSOON MMRS MATE KIT- WHITE (3mm)
+
MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
+
MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED (5mm ?)
=
*Total size ?*

According to the reference picture of the end cap sizes posted a few messages back

The total size seems to be *aprox 196mm*, is that correct?

If my educated guess is right, it should be less, since the 50mm tube sticks in a few mm into the Tube Coupler (guesstimating 6mm on each side)

it should shave off 6mm on either on both side, so that'll probably bring it down to aprox 184mm

Not knowing the exact "sticking out" measurement of the Round Cap and Mate kit (to connect port base with tube coupler) it can potentially be shorter than 180mm once everything is assembled.

That's way to big for the window area where I tried to fit this in horizontally. (110mm)

If I remove the 2x Tube Coupler, It'll bring the size down to aprox 130mm... it's still too big

hmm... without the Tube coupler inlet / outlet and restricted space, there's no room for the tubes.

I was trying to setup 3 in horizontal in parallel, for a cascading effect.

The Tube coupler outlet / inlet would have been perfect to connect them together.

is there maybe a 25mm tube?







... maybe I'll just need to cut the 50mm res tube down to size, trim a 10 mm from both sides.


----------



## AllGamer

How much weight can the *Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount* handle?

say for example can I set up a 250mm reservoir standing vertically?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@BoxGods* or anyone that might know.
> 
> I'm trying to setup the following MMRS:
> 
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED *(5mm ?)*
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS MATE KIT- WHITE *(3mm ?)*
> +
> MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FROSTED REACTOR CORE ACRYLIC TUBE 50MM - CLEAR (50mm)
> MONSOON MMRS 50MM TENSION RODS - RED
> +
> MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS MATE KIT- WHITE (3mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED (5mm ?)
> =
> *Total size ?*
> 
> According to the reference picture of the end cap sizes posted a few messages back
> 
> The total size seems to be *aprox 196mm*, is that correct?
> 
> If my educated guess is right, it should be less, since the 50mm tube sticks in a few mm into the Tube Coupler (guesstimating 6mm on each side)
> 
> it should shave off 6mm on either on both side, so that'll probably bring it down to aprox 184mm
> 
> Not knowing the exact "sticking out" measurement of the Round Cap and Mate kit (to connect port base with tube coupler) it can potentially be shorter than 180mm once everything is assembled.
> 
> That's way to big for the window area where I tried to fit this in horizontally. (110mm)
> 
> If I remove the 2x Tube Coupler, It'll bring the size down to aprox 130mm... it's still too big
> 
> hmm... without the Tube coupler inlet / outlet and restricted space, there's no room for the tubes.
> 
> I was trying to setup 3 in horizontal in parallel, for a cascading effect.
> 
> The Tube coupler outlet / inlet would have been perfect to connect them together.
> 
> is there maybe a 25mm tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... maybe I'll just need to cut the 50mm res tube down to size, trim a 10 mm from both sides.


I'm not quite sure what you're trying to build, could you maybe make a quick sketch so we understand exactly what your going for?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I'm not quite sure what you're trying to build, could you maybe make a quick sketch so we understand exactly what your going for?


I was trying to fight out the length of all the MMRS reservoir parts combined for 1 reservoir.

That was the list of all the components assembled in order.

there are just some missing sizes, and some unknown info like how many *mm* (millimetre) is actually hidden when everything is assembled.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I'm not quite sure what you're trying to build, could you maybe make a quick sketch so we understand exactly what your going for?
> 
> 
> 
> I was trying to fight out the length of all the MMRS reservoir parts combined for 1 reservoir.
> 
> That was the list of all the components assembled in order.
> 
> there are just some missing sizes, and some unknown info like how many *mm* (millimetre) is actually hidden when everything is assembled.
Click to expand...

Not all parts are required, there are a lot of extra options this system allows for. For a basic res you need a top cap, tube of whichever length with matching length tension rods, and a bottom cap.
You can use the fill/drain port piece to attach to a case panel, the mating kits are to separate two tube sections into multiple reservoirs, and the tube couplers join multiple sections of tube, and the d5 cap to attach a d5 pump directly to the res.

My res has a fill/drain port at the bottom (supports the entire res and allows draining from outside the case) 50mm tube, coupler, 200mm tube, coupler, 50mm tube, and a top cap, with the pump as a stand alone unit.

edit: the 50mm increments are what is visible, the tubes are actually slightly larger because part of it will be in the caps/couplers.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@BoxGods* or anyone that might know.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to setup the following MMRS:
> 
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED *(5mm ?)*
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS MATE KIT- WHITE *(3mm ?)*
> +
> MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FROSTED REACTOR CORE ACRYLIC TUBE 50MM - CLEAR (50mm)
> MONSOON MMRS 50MM TENSION RODS - RED
> +
> MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS MATE KIT- WHITE (3mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED (5mm ?)
> =
> *Total size ?*
> 
> According to the reference picture of the end cap sizes posted a few messages back
> 
> The total size seems to be *aprox 196mm*, is that correct?
> 
> If my educated guess is right, it should be less, since the 50mm tube sticks in a few mm into the Tube Coupler (guesstimating 6mm on each side)
> 
> it should shave off 6mm on either on both side, so that'll probably bring it down to aprox 184mm
> 
> Not knowing the exact "sticking out" measurement of the Round Cap and Mate kit (to connect port base with tube coupler) it can potentially be shorter than 180mm once everything is assembled.
> 
> That's way to big for the window area where I tried to fit this in horizontally. (110mm)
> 
> If I remove the 2x Tube Coupler, It'll bring the size down to aprox 130mm... it's still too big
> 
> hmm... without the Tube coupler inlet / outlet and restricted space, there's no room for the tubes.
> 
> I was trying to setup 3 in horizontal in parallel, for a cascading effect.
> 
> The Tube coupler outlet / inlet would have been perfect to connect them together.
> 
> is there maybe a 25mm tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... maybe I'll just need to cut the 50mm res tube down to size, trim a 10 mm from both sides.


Is this what you have in mind?



Not sure the FDP and Coupler look good together with that short of a tube. Maybe if the tube was longer... showing to be ~190mm. The 50mm tube dimension is the length of tube showing, so the actual tube is a little longer to accommodate it seating inside the the caps.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Is this what you have in mind?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure the FDP and Coupler look good together with that short of a tube. Maybe if the tube was longer... showing to be ~190mm. The 50mm tube dimension is the length of tube showing, so the actual tube is a little longer to accommodate it seating inside the the caps.


Yes, that's exactly what I had in mind,

Thanks for the quick 3D mock up, it confirms my original suspicion of the full length.

It's true it does look a little odd at 50mm, it looks way better with a 100mm tube.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Not all parts are required, there are a lot of extra options this system allows for. For a basic res you need a top cap, tube of whichever length with matching length tension rods, and a bottom cap.
> You can use the fill/drain port piece to attach to a case panel, the mating kits are to separate two tube sections into multiple reservoirs, and the tube couplers join multiple sections of tube, and the d5 cap to attach a d5 pump directly to the res.
> 
> My res has a fill/drain port at the bottom (supports the entire res and allows draining from outside the case) 50mm tube, coupler, 200mm tube, coupler, 50mm tube, and a top cap, with the pump as a stand alone unit.
> 
> edit: the 50mm increments are what is visible, the tubes are actually slightly larger because part of it will be in the caps/couplers.


See that was the thing I was not sure about if 50mm "showing" or if some of it was hidden, seems like I was in error, and the 50mm was showing with the extra hidden as both of you mentioned.

Either way now that I know the actual length, I might need to go with 2 in vertically in parallel instead of horizontal as I originally planned.

190mm is too long to sit it horizontally

Replacing the 50mm res cylinder with a 100mm res cylinder will bring the size to 240mm

That sits well standing up vertically, I can put 2 of those side by side.

As for the other comments, yes I'm well aware, It's simply purely for aesthetic why I'm building it the way I designed it.








I needed something to match the color theme, and the MMRS fits the bill perfectly.

But now the main question is,

How much weight can the *Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount* handle?

a 240mm Total length + liquid would that not be too much weight / stress on a single mount point if I use the *Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount*?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@BoxGods* or anyone that might know.
> 
> I'm trying to setup the following MMRS:
> 
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED *(5mm ?)*
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS MATE KIT- WHITE *(3mm ?)*
> +
> MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FROSTED REACTOR CORE ACRYLIC TUBE 50MM - CLEAR (50mm)
> MONSOON MMRS 50MM TENSION RODS - RED
> +
> MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS MATE KIT- WHITE (3mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED (5mm ?)
> =
> *Total size ?*
> 
> According to the reference picture of the end cap sizes posted a few messages back
> 
> The total size seems to be *aprox 196mm*, is that correct?
> 
> If my educated guess is right, it should be less, since the 50mm tube sticks in a few mm into the Tube Coupler (guesstimating 6mm on each side)
> 
> it should shave off 6mm on either on both side, so that'll probably bring it down to aprox 184mm
> 
> Not knowing the exact "sticking out" measurement of the Round Cap and Mate kit (to connect port base with tube coupler) it can potentially be shorter than 180mm once everything is assembled.
> 
> That's way to big for the window area where I tried to fit this in horizontally. (110mm)
> 
> If I remove the 2x Tube Coupler, It'll bring the size down to aprox 130mm... it's still too big
> 
> hmm... without the Tube coupler inlet / outlet and restricted space, there's no room for the tubes.
> 
> I was trying to setup 3 in horizontal in parallel, for a cascading effect.
> 
> The Tube coupler outlet / inlet would have been perfect to connect them together.
> 
> is there maybe a 25mm tube?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... maybe I'll just need to cut the 50mm res tube down to size, trim a 10 mm from both sides.


Mate kits are actually 1mm each so you are off by 4mm on your estimate. You can't deduct anything for the reservoir tubes because they are nominal--meaning the listed length is what is added to the reservoir length because the "sticky in bit" is already accounted for.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> How much weight can the *Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount* handle?
> 
> say for example can I set up a 250mm reservoir standing vertically?


The vertical mount is made from 3mm thick steel so the weight is no problem--especially if there is no lateral loading.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone know of a online shop that sells the Rotary Angle Fitting - 1/2" Light Port? I can't seem to find any for 3/8" x 1/2" Hardline fittings.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone know of a online shop that sells the Rotary Angle Fitting - 1/2" Light Port? I can't seem to find any for 3/8" x 1/2" Hardline fittings.


They don't make a 1/2" light port fitting unfortunately.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone know of a online shop that sells the Rotary Angle Fitting - 1/2" Light Port? I can't seem to find any for 3/8" x 1/2" Hardline fittings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> They don't make a 1/2" light port fitting unfortunately.


yup, I asked exactly the same question, a few pages back









only comes for the larger 2 sizes


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> yup, I asked exactly the same question, a few pages back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> only comes for the larger 2 sizes


Seems a bit odd. I wonder if it's worth going to 16mm for light port versions.


----------



## Deedaz

Pretty sure boxgods said the 1/2" fittings weren't physically large enough to make them light ports. I would just get good light strips, darkside and cablemods have really good ones.


----------



## Ginja ninja

Hi Revan654

I'm not sure where you are located but if you are in the UK give Kustom PCs a try. Here is a link to the page.

http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/Inner_Threads.html

Hope this help!

J


----------



## Ginja ninja

Apart from the CCFL inverter, my loops is complete


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Pretty sure boxgods said the 1/2" fittings weren't physically large enough to make them light ports. I would just get good light strips, darkside and cablemods have really good ones.


I had an idea for my loop, It would require lighting in my tubes. Still not 100% I could pull it off, Due to light bleeding (LED only go so far).

After looking at some pictures of 16mm, That size is ridiculously large even for my Case-Lab Case.

I do have some DarkSide RGB light sets, Not sure if I want to stick with RGB or go UV.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> Apart from the CCFL inverter, my loops is complete


Very nice =)


----------



## Deedaz

Got some MMRS stuff today!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Got some MMRS stuff today!


Looks like it was factory installed!


----------



## NeeqOne

I have mine installed as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> Hi Revan654
> 
> I'm not sure where you are located but if you are in the UK give Kustom PCs a try. Here is a link to the page.
> 
> http://www.kustompcs.co.uk/acatalog/Inner_Threads.html
> 
> Hope this help!
> 
> J


I'm in the US. Last time I tried to ship something from the UK price was pretty high.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Just finished my build with some of these new Monsoon parts...My pictures don't do them justice.


Is this the 300mm Tube or the 250?


----------



## BoxGods

Man you guys have been going to town and they all look amazing


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Got some MMRS stuff today!


Now I see why you were asking me about that









Looks real nice









I noticed a lot of people like the White version of the case.

but... it gets dirty so easily, that's why I went with the black version.

Maybe I should change my order to have it in white









Also you see your MMRS vertical mount in there?

That's why I'm going with 2 MMRS, then each of my MMRS vertical mounts will be hidden behind the window. (left and right)


----------



## Ginja ninja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man you guys have been going to town and they all look amazing


Without sounding too sycophantic, we couldn't do it without awesome products from Monsoon ?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Is this the 300mm Tube or the 250?


by math, it looks like a 250mm Tube + the D5 pump cap, and regular top cap

on the other hand, it could be a 300mm tube, since it looks taller than 2 fans,
each fan is 120mm, so that tube is a bit over 240mm,
but the tube doesn't quite reach the top fan,
which makes it less than 360mm


----------



## AllGamer

Looking good









but too much metal (chrome) for my taste









seems like everyone is having just about the same idea with MMRS in S8 these days. LOL







.... and here I thought I was the only one.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> I have mine installed as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> by math, it looks like a 250mm Tube + the D5 pump cap, and regular top cap
> 
> on the other hand, it could be a 300mm tube, since it looks taller than 2 fans,
> each fan is 120mm, so that tube is a bit over 240mm,
> but the tube doesn't quite reach the top fan,
> which makes it less than 360mm


To me it looks like 300, Since it looks to be around 11 to 14" range which is 300mm. Since I had a 200ish mm in same case and it didn't take up that much space. I might add the pedestal to mine so 300 should be very easy to fit.

I just ordered the 300mm tube for my Case(Minus D5 pump/top). Since PPCS is sold out and I already had one from my last build.


----------



## AlecMK

Just getting round to cleaning out the Monsoon Hardline loop, however I've hit an issue...

Nowhere in the UK seems to still be stocking the Monsoon UV Cure Adhesive! Has anyone used / got any recommendations for alternative solutions? Is it safe to go for a simple acrylic glue instead?

Here's a picture of the build btw


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice blend of angle fittings with custom bent tubing!









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlecMK*
> 
> Just getting round to cleaning out the Monsoon Hardline loop, however I've hit an issue...
> 
> Nowhere in the UK seems to still be stocking the Monsoon UV Cure Adhesive! Has anyone used / got any recommendations for alternative solutions? Is it safe to go for a simple acrylic glue instead?
> 
> Here's a picture of the build btw


Beautiful build...excellent photo as well









Send OCUK an email as a nudge to reorder. They are pretty responsive to customer emails.


----------



## Ginja ninja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlecMK*
> 
> Just getting round to cleaning out the Monsoon Hardline loop, however I've hit an issue...
> 
> Nowhere in the UK seems to still be stocking the Monsoon UV Cure Adhesive! Has anyone used / got any recommendations for alternative solutions? Is it safe to go for a simple acrylic glue instead?
> 
> Here's a picture of the build btw


I have just finished my build and would be happy to send you my Monsoon adhesive.

BTW, bloody awesome build!


----------



## BoxGods

Agreed 100%. Looks like it is a portable generator for a space station...ZPM anybody?

Actually a Naquida generator now that I think about it.


----------



## Revan654

And it Begins: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/build-log-project-frost-case-labs-sm8-with-x99-watercooled

Just wish I could have gotten SMA8, I believe SM8 + Ped is bigger.

All my MonSoon parts got shipped today. It will be here in two days.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlecMK*
> 
> Just getting round to cleaning out the Monsoon Hardline loop, however I've hit an issue...
> 
> Nowhere in the UK seems to still be stocking the Monsoon UV Cure Adhesive! Has anyone used / got any recommendations for alternative solutions? Is it safe to go for a simple acrylic glue instead?
> 
> Here's a picture of the build btw
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I got mine from OCUK a while back, I think? Or watercooling.co.uk?









I just went to OCUK and searched for it but can't find it listed for whatever reason, but they're finally buying in some collars!!! OMG FINALLY!!!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Agreed 100%. Looks like it is a portable generator for a space station...ZPM anybody?
> 
> Actually a Naquida generator now that I think about it.


Stargate references!? That's the best show ever....next to star trek of course


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Stargate references!? That's the best show ever....next to star trek of course


Agreed and agreed

Agreed and agreed









I was sad to see SGU get canceled as it had a good cast and interesting stories.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Agreed and agreed
> 
> Agreed and agreed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was sad to see SGU get canceled as it had a good cast and interesting stories.


as the good old Teal'C will say _...Indeed..._

Sad to see all the good show go.

SGU finally when things was getting cool, they decided to pull the plug, I hate you "Sci-Fi" channel... (they went as far as changing the channel name to SyFy, so they are no longer associated to Sci-Fi stuff only, I don't mind Mythbuster, but WWF and Cooking...







common! we got tons of those in the other dials)

I'm still hoping to see at least a movie for SGU to close the season finale properly, everyone went to sleep except for Eli

Are they going to survive?

Will Eli fix the hibernation chamber and get to sleep before food and air runs out?

Will they reach the next galaxy?

or do we find the Vacuum preserved cadaver of Eli, after they all wake up in the next galaxy.

Maybe the Earth Team some how find a way to reach them in time, before Eli goes into hibernation with a bunch of upgraded naquadah generators to power up the ship.

There are soooo many ways the show could have go on.









... well for what it's worth the new Star Trek Beyond TV series is coming soon, I hope it lives up to its predecessors.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Agreed and agreed
> 
> Agreed and agreed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was sad to see SGU get canceled as it had a good cast and interesting stories.


SGU was ok , It just didn't have the charm that Atlantis and SG1 had.


----------



## Ceadderman

SG-1 was the shiz. Never really got into the others. But was never a fan of Star Trek Voyager either. Janeway's nasally commands werked over my nerves.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> SG-1 was the shiz. Never really got into the others. But was never a fan of Star Trek Voyager either. Janeway's nasally commands werked over my nerves.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lol
> 
> ~Ceadder


Voyager is one of my favorites...The hirogen and borg storylines were really good. I've seen every episode of sg-1, tng, voyager, ds9 and enterprise at least 5 times thanks to amazon prime lol. Always have one of them going in the background. I'm halfway through tng again right now


----------



## BoxGods

How could you not like Voyager? Three words: Seven of Nine.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> How could you not like Voyager? Three words: Seven of Nine.


LMAO!







must agree to that indeed.

However I actually preferred the fierce savagery from B'Elanna Torres









but story wise, I really liked how they explored more about the Borgs and its origins, and the Fluidic Space

That episode was quite an eye opening, to imagine another space / dimension different from our own.

It makes you think, perhaps our universe is nothing more than a Cell inside the blood stream or some creature in a much larger universe.









and those species the Borg couldn't handle were acting more like the Immune System Antibodies.









In water cooling those will be the Biocides in action


----------



## Revan654

My Parts are starting to show up. I had no idea the tension rods would be this heavy. I was expecting some light weight tensions rods(Almost dropped them because of that), The weight and quality to them alone is great. I can only imagine how high quality the other parts will be. MonSoon defiantly surprised me. Will be using MonSoon in the future if I need any more parts.

Build Log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1610817/build-log-project-frost-case-labs-sm8-with-x99-watercooled


----------



## Ceadderman

Am so jelly right now. Not because of the bending kit but because of all that Monsoon. I find myself wanting the Blue bending mandrels though. May just get the kit, since the rules in my Red kit have started to lose their markings.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> How could you not like Voyager? Three words: Seven of Nine.


No amount of 7 of 9 could fix Janeways incessantly whiny commands. Only thing that could have fixed that show was to kill off Janeway and let Tuvok assume command.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

Nice eye candies up there.









All that Monsoon







...looks like is having a good time... (music playing)


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> How could you not like Voyager? Three words: Seven of Nine.


Always wanted to see Seven mud wrestle Dax!


----------



## Revan654

My Res fully assembled (I kind of forgot to buy a second mount for the res).


----------



## AllGamer

looks pretty huge, is that a 400mm res?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> looks pretty huge, is that a 400mm res?


300mm. It's the biggest you can go without having multiple tubes.


----------



## AllGamer

*@BoxGods* or anyone that knows.

Does anyone have the measurements for *Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount* ?

trying to figure out how high it lift up the reservoir from the surface it's mounted on

From pictures, it has enough clearance for the *Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Cover* (42mm) + *Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount* (32mm)
the arm is connected to the Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount, so I'm guesstimating something like 70mm?

If anyone have time, can you please measure the height from the surface it's mounted on, to the Monsoon horizontal arm section?

Thanks.


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@BoxGods* or anyone that knows.
> 
> Does anyone have the measurements for *Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount* ?
> 
> trying to figure out how high it lift up the reservoir from the surface it's mounted on
> 
> From pictures, it has enough clearance for the *Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Cover* (42mm) + *Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount* (32mm)
> the arm is connected to the Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount, so I'm guesstimating something like 70mm?
> 
> If anyone have time, can you please measure the height from the surface it's mounted on, to the Monsoon horizontal arm section?
> 
> Thanks.


Is this the measurement you want?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *paultoke*
> 
> Is this the measurement you want?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


@paultoke

Thank you so much, that is exactly what I was looking for!

and my guesstimate was pretty close, so it's 73mm

i missed by 3mm


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @paultoke
> 
> Thank you so much, that is exactly what I was looking for!
> 
> and my guesstimate was pretty close, so it's 73mm
> 
> i missed by 3mm


Yes It was








I'll be adding a rubber gasket under mine so that will push it up a little but its a nice small and strong bracket.

Top marks for that one BoxGods


----------



## Radnad

Am I doing something wrong or are the mate kit screws too short to mate a coupler and end cap together?





Also the default screw color was silver and I didn't even think about that. Will other screw colors be available at some point?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Always wanted to see Seven mud wrestle Dax!


With T'Pol as ref =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@BoxGods* or anyone that knows.
> 
> Does anyone have the measurements for *Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount* ?
> 
> trying to figure out how high it lift up the reservoir from the surface it's mounted on
> 
> From pictures, it has enough clearance for the *Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Cover* (42mm) + *Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount* (32mm)
> the arm is connected to the Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount, so I'm guesstimating something like 70mm?
> 
> If anyone have time, can you please measure the height from the surface it's mounted on, to the Monsoon horizontal arm section?
> 
> Thanks.


For those who need them:


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Am I doing something wrong or are the mate kit screws too short to mate a coupler and end cap together?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the default screw color was silver and I didn't even think about that. Will other screw colors be available at some point?


Actually the "official" use of the mate kit is for mating a TRP to a coupler. When used that way the provided screws are the correct length and you can't see them. That said, there is no reason you can't use the mate kit the way you have--except the screws will be about 5mm too short (and they may not match the color you are using obviously).

Not sure how to handle the color part of that, (would require 10 different SKU's and resellers will balk at that) but in the future, we can add the longer screws in stainless. That doesn't help you right now of course (sorry about that). I dug thru my screw odds and ends and I don't have any longer screws on hand. Your best bet if you are in a rush is a local hardware store or Fastenall, or to order them from Mc Master (or similar online.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> For those who need them:


you are the best!









Quite interesting to find out it's actually 79mm H x 79mm W

That comes in really handy indeed,

I'm trying to fit 2 of these in a very small window area, need to figure out how to line them up properly to make the most out of the limited space.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Am I doing something wrong or are the mate kit screws too short to mate a coupler and end cap together?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also the default screw color was silver and I didn't even think about that. Will other screw colors be available at some point?
> 
> 
> 
> Actually the "official" use of the mate kit is for mating a TRP to a coupler. When used that way the provided screws are the correct length and you can't see them. That said, there is no reason you can't use the mate kit the way you have--except the screws will be about 5mm too short (and they may not match the color you are using obviously).
> 
> Not sure how to handle the color part of that, (would require 10 different SKU's and resellers will balk at that) but in the future, we can add the longer screws in stainless. That doesn't help you right now of course (sorry about that). I dug thru my screw odds and ends and I don't have any longer screws on hand. Your best bet if you are in a rush is a local hardware store or Fastenall, or to order them from Mc Master (or similar online.
Click to expand...

Yes I'm going to hit the hardware store today and try to get some M4 screws 50mm in length. It looks like the ones that come with the mate kit are 44mm, so I'm thinking 50mm should be good. I know its impossible to plan for everything that everyone might do with a modular system like this, and lots of us will always find ways to use it beyond its intention, but thats also what makes it such a great system. And imo anything can be modded to make it work.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance has ordered EV2 fittings. Should have them in 10 - 14 days. They also want to do a little design contest for etch designs. Be thinking of cool stuff. I will post details when they are ironed out.


Any word on PPCs getting these in? I know it takes a while for them to put everything up on the site and what not, but have they received them yet?

Or are they already up on the site and I have overlooked them?

Thanks!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Yes I'm going to hit the hardware store today and try to get some M4 screws 50mm in length. It looks like the ones that come with the mate kit are 44mm, so I'm thinking 50mm should be good. I know its impossible to plan for everything that everyone might do with a modular system like this, and lots of us will always find ways to use it beyond its intention, but thats also what makes it such a great system. And imo anything can be modded to make it work.


The kits now ship with three different sets of screws that should cover 99% of possible uses. Too late for your build (and I apologize for that) but at least we improve as new usage senarios pop up.

1. M4 set screws 50mm long. These allow for coupler to coupler mating.

2. M4 socket head cap screws--reduced head diameter--45mm long. These are used for coupler to TRP mating.

3. M4 socket head cap screws 50mm long. These are used to mate a coupler to any of the molded end caps--MMRS-EC-XX and MMRS-SP-XX.

As far as I know, these three screw sets will now allow a builder to mate any and all of the molded parts to a coupler without exception.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Any word on PPCs getting these in? I know it takes a while for them to put everything up on the site and what not, but have they received them yet?
> 
> Or are they already up on the site and I have overlooked them?
> 
> Thanks!


They are going out (shipping) this week so figure about 10 to 14 days for PPCS to get the shipment and have them up on their site--barring any shipping issues.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Yes I'm going to hit the hardware store today and try to get some M4 screws 50mm in length. It looks like the ones that come with the mate kit are 44mm, so I'm thinking 50mm should be good. I know its impossible to plan for everything that everyone might do with a modular system like this, and lots of us will always find ways to use it beyond its intention, but thats also what makes it such a great system. And imo anything can be modded to make it work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kits now ship with three different sets of screws that should cover 99% of possible uses. Too late for your build (and I apologize for that) but at least we improve as new usage senarios pop up.
> 
> 1. M4 set screws 50mm long. These allow for coupler to coupler mating.
> 
> 2. M4 socket head cap screws--reduced head diameter--45mm long. These are used for coupler to TRP mating.
> 
> 3. M4 socket head cap screws 50mm long. These are used to mate a coupler to any of the molded end caps--MMRS-EC-XX and MMRS-SP-XX.
> 
> As far as I know, these three screw sets will now allow a builder to mate any and all of the molded parts to a coupler without exception.
Click to expand...

Your the best! I can see lots of uses for mating several couplers and tops together. I got some black 50mm screws and got them together, now I have four ports, pump out, loop return, drain valve, and one to experiment with. Again, this is the best reason why modular makes so much sense!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Your the best! I can see lots of uses for mating several couplers and tops together. I got some black 50mm screws and got them together, now I have four ports, pump out, loop return, drain valve, and one to experiment with. Again, this is the best reason why modular makes so much sense!


Yup, exactly why I choose M MRS as my Res, i love its modular design, i can use the mate with the fill port and a acrylic coupler as my top intakes + LED lighting, then the same for the bottom, along with a D5 pump

...and to top it all, it got the looks, it's sexy and hot









all the other res are just a plain cylinder.. very boring.

So, I guess I'll be running into the same problem, since I'm also trying to mate the top with the coupler.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Your the best! I can see lots of uses for mating several couplers and tops together. I got some black 50mm screws and got them together, now I have four ports, pump out, loop return, drain valve, and one to experiment with. Again, this is the best reason why modular makes so much sense!
> 
> 
> 
> Yup, exactly why I choose M MRS as my Res, i love its modular design, i can use the mate with the fill port and a acrylic coupler as my top intakes + LED lighting, then the same for the bottom, along with a D5 pump
> 
> ...and to top it all, it got the looks, it's sexy and hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all the other res are just a plain cylinder.. very boring.
> 
> So, I guess I'll be running into the same problem, since I'm also trying to mate the top with the coupler.
Click to expand...

Just go to a hardware store and get M4 screws 50mm long. They should come in black or stainless. I got black and since I'm using them on the bottom you can't even see them but the rest of the blue hardware looks great.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just go to a hardware store and get M4 screws 50mm long. They should come in black or stainless. I got black and since I'm using them on the bottom you can't even see them but the rest of the blue hardware looks great.


hmm... black / silver might defeat the purpose...
ok lets recap, so i'm going with this


+

+
 
+


trying to get this look but in white and with the mated tube coupler

Basically the Red screws outside is a must, internally I was under the impression all those included screws on the coupler kit, and mate kit, were supposed to tie in the pieces together.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just go to a hardware store and get M4 screws 50mm long. They should come in black or stainless. I got black and since I'm using them on the bottom you can't even see them but the rest of the blue hardware looks great.
> 
> 
> 
> hmm... black / silver might defeat the purpose...
> ok lets recap, so i'm going with this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +
> 
> +
> 
> +
> 
> 
> trying to get this look but in white and with the mated tube coupler
> 
> Basically the Red screws outside is a must, internally I was under the impression all those included screws on the coupler kit, and mate kit, were supposed to tie in the pieces together.
Click to expand...

So Boxgods said that to make all the different length screws in all the colors would basically be too much for the resellers to handle. So he is going to ship the screws in chrome but you can buy black ones at the hardware store. You will probably have to go to Amazon or something to find the screws anodized in the color you need. I get what your saying, but I also understand what Boxgods said, there are so many parts to the MMRS already you sort of have to pick your battles with what us, the users, really need.


----------



## AllGamer

wait... i'm using these Red Rod ...are the Red screws not long enough to mate all those 3 pieces together (top cap + mate + coupler)?



If not, then what's the correct length to buy for the M4 screws?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> wait... i'm using these Red Rod ...are the Red screws not long enough to mate all those 3 pieces together (top cap + mate + coupler)?
> 
> 
> 
> If not, then what's the correct length to buy for the M4 screws?


No they aren't. 50mm is the length you need.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> No they aren't. 50mm is the length you need.


Thanks!

I'll try to find some...

... well worse case scenario, I might just need to pick up some red metallic paint, and paint over the black / silver.


----------



## Mega Man

I know the one piece you didn't make.... a tee ....


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I know the one piece you didn't make.... a tee ....


I contemplated getting a Monsoon Bay Res, to mate it with a 200mm tube, but then I realized that was going to take up the whole bottom of the case, I decided to stick with a 360mm rad instead


----------



## AllGamer

@Boxgods @Radnad

So... to avoid all the trouble with the M4 50mm screw...

If I go with this build, everything should fit just fine, right? .. basically I avoided using the MMRS Mates Kit.

Part List:
MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED (5mm)
+
MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
+
Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 50mm - Clear (50mm)
MONSOON MMRS 50MM TENSION RODS - RED
+
MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
+
Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 50mm - Clear (50mm)
MONSOON MMRS 50MM TENSION RODS - RED
+
Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - White (32mm)
+
Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Cover - Red (42mm)
=
Total 244mm

with the Vertical mount Kit, it kind of jumps to 260mm


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @Boxgods @Radnad
> 
> So... to avoid all the trouble with the M4 50mm screw...
> 
> If I go with this build, everything should fit just fine, right? .. basically I avoided using the MMRS Mates Kit.
> 
> Part List:
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT ROUND CAP - RED (5mm)
> +
> MONSOON MMRS FILL DRAIN PORT BASE- WHITE (41mm)
> +
> Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 50mm - Clear (50mm)
> MONSOON MMRS 50MM TENSION RODS - RED
> +
> MONSOON MMRS ACRYLIC TUBE COUPLER - WHITE (24mm)
> +
> Monsoon MMRS Acrylic Tube 50mm - Clear (50mm)
> MONSOON MMRS 50MM TENSION RODS - RED
> +
> Monsoon MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount - White (32mm)
> +
> Monsoon MMRS D5 Motor Mounting Cover - Red (42mm)
> =
> Total 244mm
> 
> with the Vertical mount Kit, it kind of jumps to 260mm


Yes.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Yup, exactly why I choose M MRS as my Res, i love its modular design, i can use the mate with the fill port and a acrylic coupler as my top intakes + LED lighting, then the same for the bottom, along with a D5 pump
> 
> ...and to top it all, it got the looks, it's sexy and hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> all the other res are just a plain cylinder.. very boring.
> 
> So, I guess I'll be running into the same problem, since I'm also trying to mate the top with the coupler.


We actually made the screw changes right after the first run so every shipment after that got the longer screws. There is a good chance yours will ship with the longer screws--hopefully =)

Also, as a bit of an "end around" for resellers we are going to be offering all of the screws from every Monsoon product in every color / size / length in 10 and 25 count packs. I have been working on it for a few weeks already--I had no idea how many different screws and sizes / lengths we use across all the different parts. Will likely take another month to get them packaged and shipped--but they are coming guys.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We actually made the screw changes right after the first run so every shipment after that got the longer screws. There is a good chance yours will ship with the longer screws--hopefully =)
> 
> Also, as a bit of an "end around" for resellers we are going to be offering all of the screws from every Monsoon product in every color / size / length in 10 and 25 count packs. I have been working on it for a few weeks already--I had no idea how many different screws and sizes / lengths we use across all the different parts. Will likely take another month to get them packaged and shipped--but they are coming guys.


Well, I'm hoping it all becomes available "soon" whenever that is.
I'll be happy if some retailer carries them, before Caselab ships me my case.

I can't do much anyway at the moment, Caselab is overloaded, and I'm still waiting for my order to be fulfilled,
it's so taunting, such a torture to have 2x beautiful GTX 1080 EK edition and not be able to use it, because the rest of the system is not here yet. LOL









At the moment I'm grabbing most of the MMRS stuff from PPC, they got the widest selection compared to other online retailers.


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah waiting sucks...but the longer the journey...the more tired your a$$ is when you get there =)


----------



## ebduncan

these look nice.

Still rocking my XSPC dual 5.25" Twin D5 pump unit. Might have to look at getting one of these for a new build.


----------



## AllGamer

*@BoxGods*

Are there any recommended mounts compatible with 120mm size to install the MMRS reservoirs behind a 120mm Fan?

I figured I have more room to play with, if I hang the MMRS upside down just below my Top 360mm Rads


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@BoxGods*
> 
> Are there any recommended mounts compatible with 120mm size to install the MMRS reservoirs behind a 120mm Fan?
> 
> I figured I have more room to play with, if I hang the MMRS upside down just below my Top 360mm Rads


I know their suppose to some mounting options. However it's not available yet in the US. Have to wait until PPCS gets them in.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> *@BoxGods*
> 
> Are there any recommended mounts compatible with 120mm size to install the MMRS reservoirs behind a 120mm Fan?
> 
> I figured I have more room to play with, if I hang the MMRS upside down just below my Top 360mm Rads


The radiator mounting kits for 120mm and 140mm are all packaged and ready to ship. Performance should have them soon--10 to 14 days depending on what orders they have going out.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The radiator mounting kits for 120mm and 140mm are all packaged and ready to ship. Performance should have them soon--10 to 14 days depending on what orders they have going out.


Good to hear, I was going to put four holes into my case tonight. I think I'll wait for the mounts instead.

Quick Question what size radiator(120mm) would I need to be able to use those mounts on a 300mm res?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Good to hear, I was going to put four holes into my case tonight. I think I'll wait for the mounts instead.
> 
> Quick Question what size radiator(120mm) would I need to be able to use those mounts on a 300mm res?


They are modular or somewhat "universal" so any size you want really. I will be doing a short how-to video covering them soon.


----------



## aaronstransam

Anyone know what's going on with Monsoon economy hardline fittings? Tried getting 2 more and performance pc doesn't even list them, called and they said no word on when when new stock would be in. Something about working on new version. F cpu had 1 in matte black. Looks like I have to hide a glossy one in the basement somewhere.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Anyone know what's going on with Monsoon economy hardline fittings? Tried getting 2 more and performance pc doesn't even list them, called and they said no word on when when new stock would be in. Something about working on new version. F cpu had 1 in matte black. Looks like I have to hide a glossy one in the basement somewhere.


They're EOL, being replaced, but you can still get them at Titan Rig on Amazon.


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> They're EOL, being replaced, but you can still get them at Titan Rig on Amazon.


Not in 5/8 matte black. I checked there too


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Not in 5/8 matte black. I checked there too


I originally went with those fittings because they are super clean looking and great quality for the price. Sucks that I went with a fitting at the end of its life. Wish I would have known lol


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Not in 5/8 matte black. I checked there too
> 
> 
> 
> I originally went with those fittings because they are super clean looking and great quality for the price. Sucks that I went with a fitting at the end of its life. Wish I would have known lol
Click to expand...

Yea it happens unfortunately. You may just have to sacrifice something else that isn't seen as much or you can change fitting/tubing size in an area of the loop that isn't as visible.


----------



## aaronstransam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Yea it happens unfortunately. You may just have to sacrifice something else that isn't seen as much or you can change fitting/tubing size in an area of the loop that isn't as visible.


I'm going to rob one off the basement rad and replace it with a glossy one. Just sucks because I will know it's there and it will always bug me lol. Even if it's not seen


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> I'm going to rob one off the basement rad and replace it with a glossy one. Just sucks because I will know it's there and it will always bug me lol. Even if it's not seen


paint it!


----------



## Radnad

My latest little creation! Going in my sig rig, should fit the theme well I think. Got Monsoon blue plugs on the way for the top and valve plug.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaronstransam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> They're EOL, being replaced, but you can still get them at Titan Rig on Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> Not in 5/8 matte black. I checked there too
Click to expand...

See PM ... I have some spare black econ fittings ... not sure they are the right size for you.


----------



## paultoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> My latest little creation! Going in my sig rig, should fit the theme well I think. Got Monsoon blue plugs on the way for the top and valve plug.


Love it


----------



## Mega Man

anyone else sick of waiting for the new v2 economy fittings.....


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> anyone else sick of waiting for the new v2 economy fittings.....


Good things come to those who wait.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> anyone else sick of waiting for the new v2 economy fittings.....


I am...but my bank account is not


----------



## Mega Man

on that note... what about the spacer for the d5s !~ ? ( for the aquacomputer ones with usb )


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> on that note... what about the spacer for the d5s !~ ? ( for the aquacomputer ones with usb )


I'm waiting for both the spacers/extenders and the inverters. I'm still waiting for my Case Labs case so I guess I need to be patient.


----------



## Mega Man

Screw that. Raise pitchforks!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> My latest little creation! Going in my sig rig, should fit the theme well I think. Got Monsoon blue plugs on the way for the top and valve plug.


You might want to wait till you see the new fitting plugs =)

They come in Free Centers, Chain Guns, and Carbons.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> anyone else sick of waiting for the new v2 economy fittings.....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> anyone else sick of waiting for the new v2 economy fittings.....


They have shipped. Performance should have them by Thursday or so (depending on ship time) so hopefully they will be up in their site by Friday or Monday.


----------



## Mega Man

What about the spacers for the d5s


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cram501*
> 
> I'm waiting for both the spacers/extenders and the inverters. I'm still waiting for my Case Labs case so I guess I need to be patient.


The D5 spacers, fitting plugs, and MMRS Rad Mounting Kits are finished, packaged and ready to ship. As soon as we get an order they will go out the door.

On the inverters, I posted a few pages back that they had shipped but at the last minute we found an issue and had to destroy them. We have resolved the issue and are making a new batch as fast as we can. It will be another 2 weeks or so until they are done. I apologize again for the delay.


----------



## Mega Man

Tyvm!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> What about the spacers for the d5s


Looks like we crossed posts. Please see above =)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Tyvm!


already did


----------



## Revan654

1. I know radiator mounts are suppose to ship out soon. Is their any other mounting options? I have a 120mm fan hole at the bottom of the case. Any way to mount a 300mm MMRS to that?

2. I went to use the glue today for my hardfitting, to my surprise their was nothing in the bottle. Bottle has yet to be opened nor has it been placed near any kind of UV. Any idea what went wrong here so I don't repeat it again if PPCS replaces the glue.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. I know radiator mounts are suppose to ship out soon. Is their any other mounting options? I have a 120mm fan hole at the bottom of the case. Any way to mount a 300mm MMRS to that?
> 
> 2. I went to use the glue today for my hardfitting, to my surprise their was nothing in the bottle. Bottle has yet to be opened nor has it been placed near any kind of UV. Any idea what went wrong here so I don't repeat it again if PPCS replaces the glue.


Glue!?









We need glue for Hard Tube fittings?


----------



## suprbeau

Hey all, planning a parts list for my first water cooling build. Love the look of the MMRS stuff but have a question, and I apologize in advance if this has been asked and answered - with all the options Monsoon has, it's been tough to sort out just one plan to follow.

In a nutshell, I'd like to see if there are options to horizontally mount a res at the top of my case, suspended from a 120.3 radiator with fans setup in push. I'm not sure if there's hardware out there that would take the weight of a 150-200mm reservoir. Any thoughts or pointers would be great. Thanks!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Glue!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We need glue for Hard Tube fittings?


yes. Since you need to glue the caps to the tubbing.

You will need this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-uv-cure-adhesive-for-acrylic-8ml.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. I know radiator mounts are suppose to ship out soon. Is their any other mounting options? I have a 120mm fan hole at the bottom of the case. Any way to mount a 300mm MMRS to that?
> 
> 2. I went to use the glue today for my hardfitting, to my surprise their was nothing in the bottle. Bottle has yet to be opened nor has it been placed near any kind of UV. Any idea what went wrong here so I don't repeat it again if PPCS replaces the glue.


1 mod it.

2 yep. Don't have bad luck


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 mod it.
> 
> 2 yep. Don't have bad luck


Why didn't I think of that, O wait I did already.









Something is off, I didn't even get all pieces that was shown with the glue.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suprbeau*
> 
> Hey all, planning a parts list for my first water cooling build. Love the look of the MMRS stuff but have a question, and I apologize in advance if this has been asked and answered - with all the options Monsoon has, it's been tough to sort out just one plan to follow.
> 
> In a nutshell, I'd like to see if there are options to horizontally mount a res at the top of my case, suspended from a 120.3 radiator with fans setup in push. I'm not sure if there's hardware out there that would take the weight of a 150-200mm reservoir. Any thoughts or pointers would be great. Thanks!


There is a radiator mounting kit that allows you to mount your reservoir to or rather via the radiator mounting. Performance should have them in 10 to 14 days and I am going to try to get to the how to video for the rad mounting kit this week.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> My latest little creation! Going in my sig rig, should fit the theme well I think. Got Monsoon blue plugs on the way for the top and valve plug.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You might want to wait till you see the new fitting plugs =)
> 
> They come in Free Centers, Chain Guns, and Carbons.
Click to expand...

OMG I forgot all about those, AHhhhhhhhh!! What's the ETA?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. I know radiator mounts are suppose to ship out soon. Is their any other mounting options? I have a 120mm fan hole at the bottom of the case. Any way to mount a 300mm MMRS to that?
> 
> 2. I went to use the glue today for my hardfitting, to my surprise their was nothing in the bottle. Bottle has yet to be opened nor has it been placed near any kind of UV. Any idea what went wrong here so I don't repeat it again if PPCS replaces the glue.


1. If the radiator mounting kit doesn't work for you, you could make a fill plate from acrylic or aluminum and use either an FDP-BASE or the vertical mount.

2. The adhesive has a shelf life of one year provided it is stored in a cool dry place. Did you order it a while back and not get around to using it? It is not solvent based so evaporation is not an issue. It will eventually harden in the bottle but it would still be "there" so to speak. As in not an empty bottle. We do those little bottles in-house so it is not impossible one went out empty by mistake, (I apologize if that turns out to be the case). Performance has excellent customer support and I am sure they will get you sorted out ASAP.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> yes. Since you need to glue the caps to the tubbing.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 1. If the radiator mounting kit doesn't work for you, you could make a fill plate from acrylic or aluminum and use either an FDP-BASE or the vertical mount.
> 
> 2. The adhesive has a shelf life of one year provided it is stored in a cool dry place. Did you order it a while back and not get around to using it? It is not solvent based so evaporation is not an issue. It will eventually harden in the bottle but it would still be "there" so to speak. As in not an empty bottle. We do those little bottles in-house so it is not impossible one went out empty by mistake, (I apologize if that turns out to be the case). Performance has excellent customer support and I am sure they will get you sorted out ASAP.


I just got it two weeks ago with one of my orders.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I just got it two weeks ago with one of my orders.


Performance will get you sorted out, but if for any reason they don't, shoot me a PM and I will.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> OMG I forgot all about those, AHhhhhhhhh!! What's the ETA?


I am hoping 10 to 14 days--depends on when they order and ship/stock time etc, but figure 14 days "ish" or less.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You might want to wait till you see the new fitting plugs =)
> 
> They come in Free Centers, Chain Guns, and Carbons.


there are already renderings or pictures


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance will get you sorted out, but if for any reason they don't, shoot me a PM and I will.


Thanks. I always had a good experience with them, I will keep that in mind if nothing pans out.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> there are already renderings or pictures


Just n case you mean, "Are there pictures" no I haven't taken them yet. If it helps they look EXACTLY like the fittings. I don't mean they have the same design style either. They look just exactly like a Free Center, Chain Gun, or Carbon fitting but work like a stop plug.


----------



## ruffhi

Q: These fittings that are plugs ... can you fit tube to them? I was hoping to give the appearance of a tripod to my reservoir with two fake tubes running down ... but I couldn't be bothered closing off the tubes. If the fittings are really plugs, then this option might come back into play.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Q: These fittings that are plugs ... can you fit tube to them? I was hoping to give the appearance of a tripod to my reservoir with two fake tubes running down ... but I couldn't be bothered closing off the tubes. If the fittings are really plugs, then this option might come back into play.


With a little bit of "tinkering sure. The fitting is not solid so there is room for tube--you would need to figure out some way to hold it in place tho (not too hard to do).


----------



## Toltol

Is there any D5 dual pump top from monsoon or an option to combine to single tops?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Is there any D5 dual pump top from monsoon or an option to combine to single tops?


Not from I can see based on part list at PPCS. Your best bet is a standalone & D5 top placed in the loop. I was thinking of adding a second pump to my loop and I couldn't find any dual pump setup from MonSoon.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Is there any D5 dual pump top from monsoon or an option to combine to single tops?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Not from I can see based on part list at PPCS. Your best bet is a standalone & D5 top placed in the loop. I was thinking of adding a second pump to my loop and I couldn't find any dual pump setup from MonSoon.


Exactly why I went with 2 separate D5 pump with the MMRS setup, to have them run in series via regular tubes.


----------



## Toltol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Not from I can see based on part list at PPCS. Your best bet is a standalone & D5 top placed in the loop. I was thinking of adding a second pump to my loop and I couldn't find any dual pump setup from MonSoon.


Ah, too bad. Thanks though.

There only seems to be one from EK and one from Bitspower. Got the EK one now, but somehow I dont like it and the bitspower version apparently is not that good in terms of performance.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Ah, too bad. Thanks though.
> 
> There only seems to be one from EK and one from Bitspower. Got the EK one now, but somehow I dont like it and the bitspower version apparently is not that good in terms of performance.


I can't comment on the dual version. The single version from Bitspower is pretty good. It also based on the pump your using with the top. EK's does have more vibration then the others I have used in the past.


----------



## AllGamer

@BoxGods or anyone,

Does the vertical stand, or any of the pump related mounts come with some sort of acoustic dampener to deal the pump vibration?

--- EDIT ---
NVM, I think a few rubber washers should take care of the vibration, I can get a big box of them from Homedepot.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @BoxGods or anyone,
> 
> Does the vertical stand, or any of the pump related mounts come with some sort of acoustic dampener to deal the pump vibration?


Just use rubber washers. Go to the hardware store and stock up on them. I use them on everything that would touch metal and possibly vibrate.


----------



## BoxGods

The dual bay M2 reservoir is also part of the MMRS line and you can connect a tube reservoir to the back of it. It has true decoupled mounting if you are worried about vibration (better than using rubber washers which do NOT decouple the pump from the chassis).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toltol*
> 
> Is there any D5 dual pump top from monsoon or an option to combine to single tops?


or better yet/ more importantly a quad mount :/..... I would pay good monies for a quad mount.... do I need 4 pumps no. But must I have 4 pumps..... yes.... sigh.... I can't wait till I get my own cnc.... so much to do do little time to do...


----------



## Koala Bear

I am thinking about buying a Monsoon MMRS configured as a reservoir / pump combo & have been reading this Monsoon forum & looking at the possibilities available on Performance pcs.com . I am thinking about using 3 tubes. The top and bottom being 100mm frosted clear & the middle tube frosted clear reactor core either 50mm or 100mm. I have a feeling the 50mm would have a better visual look. Oh & I am thinking about using Koolance UV orange which looks translucent in pictures.

My first problem is that the D5 Pump mount is out of stock
Secondly I need to make sure my current Thermal take G1/4 fittings are compatible
I read somewhere in this thread that glue is used & I don't know why as my thermaltake loop doesn't use glue anywhere.
This reservoir pump combo will replace my Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 reservoir / pump combo. Simply because the top cap is aluminium & I don't want bad things to happen to my pc. As it is I am getting a Alphacool NexXxos Monsta 480mm to replace the Thermaltake 480mm Rad made out of aluminium. Thank you for any assistance you can help me with or suggestions you may have.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> I am thinking about buying a Monsoon MMRS configured as a reservoir / pump combo & have been reading this Monsoon forum & looking at the possibilities available on Performance pcs.com . I am thinking about using 3 tubes. The top and bottom being 100mm frosted clear & the middle tube frosted clear reactor core either 50mm or 100mm. I have a feeling the 50mm would have a better visual look. Oh & I am thinking about using Koolance UV orange which looks translucent in pictures.
> 
> My first problem is that the D5 Pump mount is out of stock
> Secondly I need to make sure my current Thermal take G1/4 fittings are compatible
> I read somewhere in this thread that glue is used & I don't know why as my thermaltake loop doesn't use glue anywhere.
> This reservoir pump combo will replace my Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 reservoir / pump combo. Simply because the top cap is aluminium & I don't want bad things to happen to my pc. As it is I am getting a Alphacool NexXxos Monsta 480mm to replace the Thermaltake 480mm Rad made out of aluminium. Thank you for any assistance you can help me with or suggestions you may have.


1. Not sure what color your after, I know PPCS had them in stock as of last night.
2. If the threads are G 1/4 it will be compatible.
3. Glue is is only used on fittings for Hardline (minus eco fittings). It's their system locking everything in place, Also making it a bit more secure.


----------



## Koala Bear

Revan654 thank you for your reply. Unfortunately PPCS is out of stock for both the end cap with D5 pump mount- black ( sorry my earlier post had the incorrect name ) & the acrylic tube coupler- black. I am doing a parts & pricing list as I write this post. Looks like I have to be really patent while I wait for this last piece of my pc upgrade. I so badly want to play with my next gpu which is going to be the Gigabyte GTX 1080 Extreme gaming version.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> Revan654 thank you for your reply. Unfortunately PPCS is out of stock for both the end cap with D5 pump mount- black ( sorry my earlier post had the incorrect name ) & the acrylic tube coupler- black. I am doing a parts & pricing list as I write this post. Looks like I have to be really patent while I wait for this last piece of my pc upgrade. I so badly want to play with my next gpu which is going to be the Gigabyte GTX 1080 Extreme gaming version.


MMRS parts go quick on PPCS. It's best to sign up for email alerts when its back in stock and be ready to pounce!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The dual bay M2 reservoir is also part of the MMRS line and you can connect a tube reservoir to the back of it. It has true decoupled mounting if you are worried about vibration (better than using rubber washers which do NOT decouple the pump from the chassis).


Good to know, I was toying with the idea of a bay reservoir + tube reservoir + pump standing up... but when I figure the D5 won't work well upside down, i stopped following this path.

Now if we can manage to get like some sort of "Straw" that connects to the input orifice of the D5 MMRS-TRP, so it can dip into the lower part of the reservoir to Suck water up for the pump, then It'll work beautifully.

It can make for a nice upside down flow effect, you know water returning from the side ports like a MMRS coupler, it goes down to the bottom of the rest, to be sucked up by the straw, and then the pump flings the water back out to the loop.


----------



## Koala Bear

Thanks Radnad will do.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The dual bay M2 reservoir is also part of the MMRS line and you can connect a tube reservoir to the back of it. It has true decoupled mounting if you are worried about vibration (better than using rubber washers which do NOT decouple the pump from the chassis).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know, I was toying with the idea of a bay reservoir + tube reservoir + pump standing up... but when I figure the D5 won't work well upside down, i stopped following this path.
> 
> Now if we can manage to get like some sort of "Straw" that connects to the input orifice of the D5 MMRS-TRP, so it can dip into the lower part of the reservoir to Suck water up for the pump, then It'll work beautifully.
> 
> It can make for a nice upside down flow effect, you know water returning from the side ports like a MMRS coupler, it goes down to the bottom of the rest, to be sucked up by the straw, and then the pump flings the water back out to the loop.
Click to expand...

If I understood you correctly, your idea is to put your pump above your res. It can be done, but is generally ill advised: the pump inlet should be below the res outlet to ensure that the pump is always full of water, even as the system starts up, even during loop bleeding. The pump above the res can (usually shall) run dry long enough to kill it.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> If I understood you correctly, your idea is to put your pump above your res. It can be done, but is generally ill advised: the pump inlet should be below the res outlet to ensure that the pump is always full of water, even as the system starts up, even during loop bleeding. The pump above the res can (usually shall) run dry long enough to kill it.


yup, you got it right.

That's why the idea of the "straw" so it won't run dry even if the water level drops, the water input tube basically will always be below water level.

so, a "Straw" for each Res size minus like 10mm to allow room for error, and quick liquid flow.

a 100mm res cylinder will use a 90mm straw
a 150mm res cylinder will use a 140mm straw
a 200mm res cylinder will use a 190mm straw and so on.

I always wanted to use that Bay res in a Standing up position, to make it like a base + water tower, having the D5 pump dress up shell at the top makes it look like a natural water tower tank.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> If I understood you correctly, your idea is to put your pump above your res. It can be done, but is generally ill advised: the pump inlet should be below the res outlet to ensure that the pump is always full of water, even as the system starts up, even during loop bleeding. The pump above the res can (usually shall) run dry long enough to kill it.
> 
> 
> 
> yup, you got it right.
> 
> That's why the idea of the "straw" so it won't run dry even if the water level drops, the water input tube basically will always be below water level.
> 
> so, a "Straw" for each Res size minus like 10mm to allow room for error, and quick liquid flow.
> 
> a 100mm res cylinder will use a 90mm straw
> a 150mm res cylinder will use a 140mm straw
> a 200mm res cylinder will use a 190mm straw and so on.
> 
> I always wanted to use that Bay res in a Standing up position, to make it like a base + water tower, having the D5 pump dress up shell at the top makes it look like a natural water tower tank.
Click to expand...


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> If I understood you correctly, your idea is to put your pump above your res. It can be done, but is generally ill advised: the pump inlet should be below the res outlet to ensure that the pump is always full of water, even as the system starts up, even during loop bleeding. The pump above the res can (usually shall) run dry long enough to kill it.
> 
> 
> 
> yup, you got it right.
> 
> That's why the idea of the "straw" so it won't run dry even if the water level drops, the water input tube basically will always be below water level.
> 
> so, a "Straw" for each Res size minus like 10mm to allow room for error, and quick liquid flow.
> 
> a 100mm res cylinder will use a 90mm straw
> a 150mm res cylinder will use a 140mm straw
> a 200mm res cylinder will use a 190mm straw and so on.
> 
> I always wanted to use that Bay res in a Standing up position, to make it like a base + water tower, having the D5 pump dress up shell at the top makes it look like a natural water tower tank.
Click to expand...

We all want to be innovative and have cool ideas that no none else has thought of, but the reality is there are a few basic important rules in water cooling that shouldn't be trifled with, and an upside down pump is one of them. Your just asking for trouble and possibly damaged components.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> We all want to be innovative and have cool ideas that no none else has thought of, but the reality is there are a few basic important rules in water cooling that shouldn't be trifled with, and an upside down pump is one of them. Your just asking for trouble and possibly damaged components.


Agreed. Gravity ALWAYS wins.


----------



## Koala Bear

Is the Anti-vortex trident only available with Mate Kit- Black. As I can not find it any where else. I can only find it listed in the mate-kit on the UK Overclockers site. Although it does appear in all the promotional pictures. BoxGods I would love to know when PPCS will get more Acrylic Tube Coupler- Black & the End Cap with D5 Pump Mount- Black. An approximate date would help. Overclockers UK has an ETA of 10/14/16 for the end cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black. Yup I was hoping to pick these parts up from overclockers to complete my order. Just my luck lately.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> Is the Anti-vortex trident only available with Mate Kit- Black. As I can not find it any where else. I can only find it listed in the mate-kit on the UK Overclockers site. Although it does appear in all the promotional pictures. BoxGods I would love to know when PPCS will get more Acrylic Tube Coupler- Black & the End Cap with D5 Pump Mount- Black. An approximate date would help. Overclockers UK has an ETA of 10/14/16 for the end cap with D5 Pump Mount - Black. Yup I was hoping to pick these parts up from overclockers to complete my order. Just my luck lately.


The anti-vortex trident also ships with the TRP. We will also be selling them in a two pack in the not too distant future (about a month). Performance has an MMRS order in the pipeline that *should* be arriving around the first of the month.


----------



## Koala Bear

BoxGods thank you for your reply & this information helps me a lot. Yes I understand what you mean by should.


----------



## Revan654

Any ETA when PPCS will be getting the radiator mounts in? I have a bunch of stuff queued up just waiting for the mounts to arrive.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any ETA when PPCS will be getting the radiator mounts in? I have a bunch of stuff queued up just waiting for the mounts to arrive.


They are packaged and ready to go out the door--just waiting on Performance to finalize an order (which they are close to doing) and they will ship. So figure 7 to 10 days "ish". Sooner if possible of course.


----------



## Koala Bear

I placed an order this morning with PPCS & Overclokers UK. Unfortunately I have to wait for the End Cap with D5 Pump Mount. Can anyone see anything missing from the following list ??

Solid Frosted Acrylic Tube 100mm- Clear x 2
Acrylic Tube Coupler- Black x 2
Triple end Cap- Black
D5 Motor mounting cover- Matte Black
Frosted Reactor Core 100mm x 1
Watercool WCP D5PMW 12v Pump
300mm Tension Rods- Black
25mm Reservoir Mount- Matte Black x 2
Premium G1/4 Plug Chrome x 6
Mate Kit- Black
Koolance 700mm UV orange coolant
Thanks


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> I placed an order this morning with PPCS & Overclokers UK. Unfortunately I have to wait for the End Cap with D5 Pump Mount. Can anyone see anything missing from the following list ??
> 
> Solid Frosted Acrylic Tube 100mm- Clear x 2
> Acrylic Tube Coupler- Black x 2
> Triple end Cap- Black
> D5 Motor mounting cover- Matte Black
> Frosted Reactor Core 100mm x 1
> Watercool WCP D5PMW 12v Pump
> 300mm Tension Rods- Black
> 25mm Reservoir Mount- Matte Black x 2
> Premium G1/4 Plug Chrome x 6
> Mate Kit- Black
> Koolance 700mm UV orange coolant
> Thanks


You get tension rods the same size as the tube, so you will need 3 sets of 100mm tension rods, not 1 set of 300. Everything else looks good from what I can tell.


----------



## Koala Bear

I haven't ordered any CCFL lighting because I need to find an inverter to fit my Thermaltake Core P5 case. I live in Australia so my options here are very limited & difficult to find. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


----------



## Koala Bear

Thanks Radnad. Looks like I have more to order.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> I haven't ordered any CCFL lighting because I need to find an inverter to fit my Thermaltake Core P5 case. I live in Australia so my options here are very limited & difficult to find. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


We are going as fast as we can on the 2 and 4 bulb inverters. Testing the replacement PCB now and finishing up the optional switch cables. Still two weeks or so out--if everything goes to plan. Sorry for the delay but these are high voltage so they have to be right.


----------



## Koala Bear

Boxgods thank you for your reply. I understand why things have to be done right with electrical components. As it turns out I may have a viable option here in Australia. If that doesn't work out then I can always buy one of your inverters once they become available. Again thank you.


----------



## Ceadderman

Buy Monsoon once it beces available. They are sooooooooo smexy looking.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Esp now we have the new mounting holes with threads, and not just velcro, right BoxGods? (Hint hint)


----------



## Koala Bear

Ceaderman your right Monsoon products do look sexy


----------



## aaronstransam

PERFORMANCE PCS & MONSOON.....YOU GUYS ROCK.
contacted ppcs a couple days ago to see if they had any monsoon economy hardline fittings laying around so when I do the rebuild of my rig all the fittings would match. My hopes were low as they are discontinued. Got an email the next day from ppcs saying that their monsoon rep had located some fittings and had enough for a 6 pack and asked for my info to fwd over to monsoon. Thought I would receive an email or letter from monsoon with a price. 3 days and no email. No letter. But

THEN TODAY......6 pack shows up at my door.

Monsoon and ppcs for life.


----------



## BoxGods

Little update:

Performance placed their order for the new radiator mounting kits, anti-vortex two packs in molded black and white, 10mm motor mounting tube extension rings (for those using Alphacool type pumps) and the new fitting plugs. Depending on ship time they should have them up on their site in a week to 10 days.

They should have the new EV2 fittings up by mid week.

Thou art updated =)


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Little update:
> 
> Performance placed their order for the new radiator mounting kits, anti-vortex two packs in molded black and white, 10mm motor mounting tube extension rings (for those using Alphacool type pumps) and the new fitting plugs. Depending on ship time they should have them up on their site in a week to 10 days.
> 
> They should have the new EV2 fittings up by mid week.
> 
> Thou art updated =)


yay! i was looking forwad to the new rad mounting kits


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Little update:
> 
> Performance placed their order for the new radiator mounting kits, anti-vortex two packs in molded black and white, 10mm motor mounting tube extension rings (for those using Alphacool type pumps) and the new fitting plugs. Depending on ship time they should have them up on their site in a week to 10 days.
> 
> They should have the new EV2 fittings up by mid week.
> 
> Thou art updated =)


Nice, it looks like it's going to fall short of the Sale currently going on at PPCS. Looks like I will have to make a separate order when they come in.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Little update:
> 
> Performance placed their order for the new radiator mounting kits, anti-vortex two packs in molded black and white, 10mm motor mounting tube extension rings (for those using Alphacool type pumps) and the new fitting plugs. Depending on ship time they should have them up on their site in a week to 10 days.
> 
> They should have the new EV2 fittings up by mid week.
> 
> Thou art updated =)


Forgot to ask...

Is it part of the MMRS line, or it's listed as something else?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Forgot to ask...
> 
> Is it part of the MMRS line, or it's listed as something else?


Yes they work with MMRS. They will not be listed until they arrive tho...


----------



## BoxGods

A little update on EV2 fittings and custom etching:

Hank from Performance PC's wants to have a littlke etch design contest so start working on your art ideas.


----------



## VSG

Looks nice, although the pics seem over exposed.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geggeg*
> 
> Looks nice, although the pics seem over exposed.


They always seem to on the blindingly white background. I prefer the dark backdrop we normally use but sites like Amazon require the white.


----------



## CrazyCreator

The Chain Gun Design is better







much better


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> The Chain Gun Design is better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> much better


These are the new economy fittings...for those who do not want to mess with bonding on the lock collars.


----------



## eucalyptus

Well, since you mention the new EV2 fittings and etching I thought I can share the pictures once again I posted earlier









I believe they can prove to you what's possible to do, and how the results are finished









At the same time, I have to say I am deeply deeply sorry that I haven't put them together yet. I am currently working on my V8 Ocean project, and it's not possible to do both.









Although, hope you enjoy the pictures. - and Gene knows, just send me an email if you want the pictures, the original files without watermark
















http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846730/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846731/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846732/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846733/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846734/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846735/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846736/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846737/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846738/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846739/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846740/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846741/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846742/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846743/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846744/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846745/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846746/

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2846747/


----------



## Koala Bear

I ordered the rest of my parts this morning ( I live in Sydney Australia ) after deciding to go with the reservoir separated from the D5 pump. I just couldn't wait any longer for the D5 pump mount. Unfortunately this is a forced upgrade. I started as I have a dying Graphics card ( + possible other problems ). I then found out my Thermaltake radiator tubing is made out of Aluminium as is the top cap on the TT reservoir. So depending on courier I may have my PC upgraded late next week or early the next week. My new graphics card is a Gigabyte GTX 1080 Extreme Gaming version. The new Radiator is an Alpha Cool NexXxos Monsta 480mm. The Monsoon Reservoir will be 3 x 100mm tubes. The Top & bottom tubes will be Solid frosted clear and the middle tube will be Frosted reactor core clear. The end caps, connectors ect are black. I will also have a white 300mmCCFL internally lighting my reservoir. My coolant will be Coolance UV orange. Unfortunately nobody makes a water block for my GTX 1080 Extreme. My case is a Thermaltake Core P5. Pictures to follow. Oh before I forget, I would like to thank BoxGods for his assistance & amazing products as well as those who answered my posts & everyone who has ever posted hints, tips, suggestions or provided help as I have read almost every post in this Monsoon cooling thread searching for information.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> I ordered the rest of my parts this morning ( I live in Sydney Australia ) after deciding to go with the reservoir separated from the D5 pump. I just couldn't wait any longer for the D5 pump mount. Unfortunately this is a forced upgrade. I started as I have a dying Graphics card ( + possible other problems ). I then found out my Thermaltake radiator tubing is made out of Aluminium as is the top cap on the TT reservoir. So depending on courier I may have my PC upgraded late next week or early the next week. My new graphics card is a Gigabyte GTX 1080 Extreme Gaming version. The new Radiator is an Alpha Cool NexXxos Monsta 480mm. The Monsoon Reservoir will be 3 x 100mm tubes. The Top & bottom tubes will be Solid frosted clear and the middle tube will be Frosted reactor core clear. The end caps, connectors ect are black. I will also have a white 300mmCCFL internally lighting my reservoir. My coolant will be Coolance UV orange. Unfortunately nobody makes a water block for my GTX 1080 Extreme. My case is a Thermaltake Core P5. Pictures to follow. Oh before I forget, I would like to thank BoxGods for his assistance & amazing products as well as those who answered my posts & everyone who has ever posted hints, tips, suggestions or provided help as I have read almost every post in this Monsoon cooling thread searching for information.


Always glad to help and good luck with the new build =)


----------



## BoxGods

Performance has the new Economy fittings in stock --EV2-- and should have them up on their site today =)

As I mentioned Hank (owner of Performance) wants to do a little contest for best fitting etch design. So far the thought is there is a set time frame for everyone to submit their art files--say 30 days for example--then the community selects the top 5 designs, those "finalists" get a free set of fittings etched with their design. From the finalists a winner is selected and receives some sort of prize. Still in the planning stage but it would be something like $150 worth of free Monsoon parts from us and whatever prize Performance wants to throw into the pot--like store credit or similar.

If the winning design, (and any of the runners-up) has enough interest from the community Performance might stock a small number of them--designer listed forever of course =)

Thoughts?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Well, since you mention the new EV2 fittings and etching I thought I can share the pictures once again I posted earlier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe they can prove to you what's possible to do, and how the results are finished
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the same time, I have to say I am deeply deeply sorry that I haven't put them together yet. I am currently working on my V8 Ocean project, and it's not possible to do both.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although, hope you enjoy the pictures. - and Gene knows, just send me an email if you want the pictures, the original files without watermark


I had one of these sent to me when they etched them so I could check it out. Every single one of my buddies made the same comment / joke. It should be a different plant =)


----------



## Cazher

Is any1 know are the Monsoon D5 Stand Alone Pump Top still able to buy?

Most of the place I found only sell the pump/res combo rather put the pump separately.

Thanks.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cazher*
> 
> Is any1 know are the Monsoon D5 Stand Alone Pump Top still able to buy?
> 
> Most of the place I found only sell the pump/res combo rather put the pump separately.
> 
> Thanks.


Nobody really stocks the SAP pump top as most customers need the other parts as well so having the "whole kit" makes more sense . The top only would just sit on the shelf forever.


----------



## BoxGods

Test design from Performance--these were on copper plated brass compression rings not the 303 stainless so keep in mind the etch will normally be silver.



You get the idea anyway. Just no end to the possibilities =)


----------



## Radnad

I don't suppose trademarked or copyrighted logos are fair game, say, like a sports team mascot or logo?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I don't suppose trademarked or copyrighted logos are fair game, say, like a sports team mascot or logo?


Should be fine for you to submit a logo for a set of fittings, just don't try to mass produce them for resale


----------



## Revan654

Looks like I got a backward mount


















How it suppose to look like:


----------



## AllGamer

they stamped the logo in the wrong side of the plate


----------



## Ceadderman

Apologies for the timing of this post but yesterday was quite entertaining on the negative side and I was unavoidably detained by our fair minded law enforcement individuals. But here is what I had intended to post 3 days ago...

I like the chainguns but I can't even sell mine since I went another way with Economies. If I were gonna go with the lock collar type of fitting I would keep them but all unused parts go towards funding new parts so hopefully all will sell soon to help get this buiild furthered along.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they stamped the logo in the wrong side of the plate


Actually, that's not bad if you think about it. Yeah it would be nice to Rep Monsoon, but the longer piece does that quite well I imagine.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

hmm, Doesn't look my pump can fit into the Moonsoon D5 pump stand. It doesn't have enough clearance due to the USB cable.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Looks like I got a backward mount
> 
> How it suppose to look like:


Sorry about that--should have never gotten past our QC ladies. I will let them know.

If you can PM me your shipping information I will get a replacement in the mail to you ASAP.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies for the timing of this post but yesterday was quite entertaining on the negative side and I was unavoidably detained by our fair minded law enforcement individuals. But here is what I had intended to post 3 days ago...
> 
> I like the chainguns but I can't even sell mine since I went another way with Economies. If I were gonna go with the lock collar type of fitting I would keep them but all unused parts go towards funding new parts so hopefully all will sell soon to help get this buiild furthered along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, that's not bad if you think about it. Yeah it would be nice to Rep Monsoon, but the longer piece does that quite well I imagine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have had a few of those "fair-minded" detentions myself--never failed I would always get hauled in on a Friday which means you are stuck till you can see a Judge or pay your fine on Monday.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> hmm, Doesn't look my pump can fit into the Moonsoon D5 pump stand. It doesn't have enough clearance due to the USB cable.


There is a 10mm extension ring that adds some space at the back for Alphacool pumps. Picture below. Performance should have them in stock sometime in the next 7 to 10 days. The mounting tube will still work fine, you just will not be able to add the back cover until you install the extension ring--both can be added later without disturbing the pump so you can continue your build and add them later.

The picture shows the extension ring on the right, and on the left how it looks installed. Let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> There is a 10mm extension ring that adds some space at the back for Alphacool pumps. Picture below. Performance should have them in stock sometime in the next 7 to 10 days. The mounting tube will still work fine, you just will not be able to add the back cover until you install the extension ring--both can be added later without disturbing the pump so you can continue your build and add them later.
> 
> The picture shows the extension ring on the right, and on the left how it looks installed. Let me know if you have any questions.


I think the ring was for the aquacomputer pumps????


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> I think the ring was for the aquacomputer pumps????


Whoops...

Let's just call it "any of the longer D5 variants".


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> There is a 10mm extension ring that adds some space at the back for Alphacool pumps. Picture below. Performance should have them in stock sometime in the next 7 to 10 days. The mounting tube will still work fine, you just will not be able to add the back cover until you install the extension ring--both can be added later without disturbing the pump so you can continue your build and add them later.
> 
> The picture shows the extension ring on the right, and on the left how it looks installed. Let me know if you have any questions.


ok, I still have a bit of credit left at PPCS. I will wait until they arrive before placing my last order with them.

I did finally get around to mounting my 300mm Res. I didn't think I would need to mount it so high. Now problem is how am I going to router all my PSU cables to the bottom pedestal without it being a complete mess.










Here is D5 Top with my old Pump:


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Test design from Performance--these were on copper plated brass compression rings not the 303 stainless so keep in mind the etch will normally be silver.
> 
> 
> 
> You get the idea anyway. Just no end to the possibilities =)


Oh my, the orange is almost the right shade too  (aka they look nice)


----------



## BoxGods

Figuring out how to route all the cables and plumbing is not a problem...the challenge is one of the things that makes it fun


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Oh my, the orange is almost the right shade too  (aka they look nice)


Just keep in mind the etching is optional--if you want "plain" that is how they are mostly sold. Also for those who do want etched, it is your artwork / design that is used.

I always worry that people who see just one etched design in a picture will think that "is" EV2.


----------



## Deedaz

I'm ready to order, just don't see any engraving options/pricing.







I should probably get a build log going for this...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I'm ready to order, just don't see any engraving options/pricing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I should probably get a build log going for this...


We are working out the logistics of order processing with Performance--stuff like how to receive the artwork etc... Will be a few days--plan on Monday "ish" just to be safe.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies for the timing of this post but yesterday was quite entertaining on the negative side and I was unavoidably detained by our fair minded law enforcement individuals. But here is what I had intended to post 3 days ago...
> 
> I like the chainguns but I can't even sell mine since I went another way with Economies. If I were gonna go with the lock collar type of fitting I would keep them but all unused parts go towards funding new parts so hopefully all will sell soon to help get this buiild furthered along.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually, that's not bad if you think about it. Yeah it would be nice to Rep Monsoon, but the longer piece does that quite well I imagine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have had a few of those "fair-minded" detentions myself--never failed I would always get hauled in on a Friday which means you are stuck till you can see a Judge or pay your fine on Monday.
Click to expand...

Yeah, all I can say was that I spent a very sore night(due to age not outcome) cooling off. Other guy got in one good lick. So much for him breaking both my legs. I coulda let it go were it not for him holding my son while talking out the side of his neck and then giving me a smug "what are you gonna do about it" look.

I had my soon to be Ex take my son and dude tried to slam his door into me and promptly got it figuratively shoved back in his lap. He tried to come out the window and getting a headlock on me, but I torqued his leg up the side of his Driver's side door. We went to the ground, he punched me in the eye (as I said, one good blow) and the fight finished with me on top while he had ahold of my hair. A passerby had his lady stop so he could climb out and attempt to break it up. I told him to kick rocks. I take what this guy did rather personally as he was egging me on intentionally knowing full well that would set any father to the moon.

Only wish I'dve given him a raccoon look for the shiner I got. But se la vies. Everything will be put right, since I have no record and they hear my side of things.









~Ceadder


----------



## solidshark91493

Just saw these fittings show up on facebook from performance pc's.
Thought Id swing by and see if my thread died. Ill still update all the imagery and stuff for you if youd like since its VERY alive and well!








Glad to see you guys are doing well.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Just saw these fittings show up on facebook from performance pc's.
> Thought Id swing by and see if my thread died. Ill still update all the imagery and stuff for you if youd like since its VERY alive and well!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see you guys are doing well.


We've been waiting for you to show up again to petition the mod to make this the official owner's club, lol.


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> We've been waiting for you to show up again to petition the mod to make this the official owner's club, lol.


D: no pm received
Sorry guys!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> We've been waiting for you to show up again to petition the mod to make this the official owner's club, lol.


Agreed. so many of us are using this thread as the *"Official" Monsoon Club*

but... might want to rename the title a bit


----------



## lexer

Your products are amazing, i just builded a WC for a customer with your fittings and i was amazed with the finish quality and how sexy they look


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> We've been waiting for you to show up again to petition the mod to make this the official owner's club, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> D: no pm received
> Sorry guys!
Click to expand...

Maybe no PM's, but I'm pretty sure there have been plenty of @mention's, haha!


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Maybe no PM's, but I'm pretty sure there have been plenty of @mention's, haha!


I wouldnt know how to even see those tbh, and I havent been present on here in forever been real busy with work but if I need to I can definitely spend a bit of time on here


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lexer*
> 
> Your products are amazing, i just builded a WC for a customer with your fittings and i was amazed with the finish quality and how sexy they look


Thanks for the kind words =)

I will make sure to pass them on to everyone here


----------



## BoxGods

Performance has the new EV2 fittings up on their site:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?brand=528&is_ajax=1&p=1&q=ev2-

They should have the option for custom etching up tomorrow and information for the design contest a few days after that


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance has the new EV2 fittings up on their site:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?brand=528&is_ajax=1&p=1&q=ev2-
> 
> They should have the option for custom etching up tomorrow and information for the design contest a few days after that












Now I just gotta sell my Economies.









I don't think I will make the deadline though.









All good.









Now I just have to decide which color. Black Nickel(Red CPU block), Red (Acetal RAM block) or mixed...
















Wanna sponsor my build Geno?









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Just ordered a 12 pack of the green, can't wait to see how they turn out


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance has the new EV2 fittings up on their site:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?brand=528&is_ajax=1&p=1&q=ev2-
> 
> They should have the option for custom etching up tomorrow and information for the design contest a few days after that


Cant wait to see that!









Glad to see youre doing well Gene


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance has the new EV2 fittings up on their site:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?brand=528&is_ajax=1&p=1&q=ev2-
> 
> They should have the option for custom etching up tomorrow and information for the design contest a few days after that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant wait to see that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see youre doing well Gene
Click to expand...

MMRS is rocking, I'm seeing it all over the place, and with these new fittings, Boxgods is breaking rules and slapping fannies! I've already stocked up on all the fittings for my Skylake build in progress but seriously considering switching to EV2 now!


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance has the new EV2 fittings up on their site:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?brand=528&is_ajax=1&p=1&q=ev2-
> 
> They should have the option for custom etching up tomorrow and information for the design contest a few days after that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant wait to see that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Glad to see youre doing well Gene
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> MMRS is rocking, I'm seeing it all over the place, and with these new fittings, Boxgods is breaking rules and slapping fannies! I've already stocked up on all the fittings for my Skylake build in progress but seriously considering switching to EV2 now!
Click to expand...

IKR? I've got 30 v1 fittings that I now have to do something with.









~Ceadder


----------



## Koala Bear

All I am doing is upgrading my pump / reservoir to Monsoon. The problem I am having is that I keep on thinking of different reservoir sizes & configurations to fit my Thermaltake Core P5 case. Even though I have already purchased 3 x 100mm tubes. My new Graphics card is 287mm long and will just fit with a very small space between it & the reservoir. However with a different set up I could have just a length of PETG tubing passing by the end of the graphics card giving a far larger clearance. I guess it just comes back to vision & understanding the almost endless possibilities that are available with the MMRS system.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> MMRS is rocking, I'm seeing it all over the place, and with these new fittings, Boxgods is breaking rules and slapping fannies! I've already stocked up on all the fittings for my Skylake build in progress but seriously considering switching to EV2 now!


Thanks for all the good wishes guys--very much appreciated =)

How funny you wrote "breaking rules and slapping fannies" as I JUST did the test etch below:



Was curious how Tension rods would look etched =)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> MMRS is rocking, I'm seeing it all over the place, and with these new fittings, Boxgods is breaking rules and slapping fannies! I've already stocked up on all the fittings for my Skylake build in progress but seriously considering switching to EV2 now!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the good wishes guys--very much appreciated =)
> 
> How funny you wrote "breaking rules and slapping fannies" as I JUST did the test etch below:
> 
> 
> 
> Was curious how Tension rods would look etched =)
Click to expand...

Bored, were we?









That looks awesome Geno. Script would look better but that's pretty tight.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> MMRS is rocking, I'm seeing it all over the place, and with these new fittings, Boxgods is breaking rules and slapping fannies! I've already stocked up on all the fittings for my Skylake build in progress but seriously considering switching to EV2 now!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the good wishes guys--very much appreciated =)
> 
> How funny you wrote "breaking rules and slapping fannies" as I JUST did the test etch below:
> 
> 
> 
> Was curious how Tension rods would look etched =)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bored, were we?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks awesome Geno. Script would look better but that's pretty tight.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

I'm thinking tribal pattern wrapping around.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Performance has the new EV2 fittings up on their site:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?brand=528&is_ajax=1&p=1&q=ev2-
> 
> They should have the option for custom etching up tomorrow and information for the design contest a few days after that


Curious if any special consideration should be given when using the EV2s with Borosilicate glass tubing?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> Curious if any special consideration should be given when using the EV2s with Borosilicate glass tubing?


No reason I can think of.


----------



## Tomiger

Should have a 6-pack of EV2 fittings arriving today.

It's been so long since I've ordered fittings that I wasn't even paying attention to the size and ordered the 1/2"x5/8" ones. I have only previously worked with 3/8"x1/2" tubing.

So perhaps unrelated to Monsoon products, but what do you guys prefer for tubing size when it comes to ease of bending and looks? I need 12 fittings total for my build and already have a bending kit for 3/8"X1/2" tubing. But the price difference of ordering 6 more fittings that are 1/2"x5/8" and matching mandrels OR just ordering 12 3/8"x1/2" fittings isn't very much. So I'm not really opposed to either option but I don't have the two sizes of tubing on hand to do comparisons.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> Should have a 6-pack of EV2 fittings arriving today.
> 
> It's been so long since I've ordered fittings that I wasn't even paying attention to the size and ordered the 1/2"x5/8" ones. I have only previously worked with 3/8"x1/2" tubing.
> 
> So perhaps unrelated to Monsoon products, but what do you guys prefer for tubing size when it comes to ease of bending and looks? I need 12 fittings total for my build and already have a bending kit for 3/8"X1/2" tubing. But the price difference of ordering 6 more fittings that are 1/2"x5/8" and matching mandrels OR just ordering 12 3/8"x1/2" fittings isn't very much. So I'm not really opposed to either option but I don't have the two sizes of tubing on hand to do comparisons.


Either size is about the same from a performance perspective. My personal preference as a designer is the larger 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) as it has a bit more visual "weight" from an aesthetic point of view.


----------



## BoxGods

Just a heads up:

Performance has the custom etched EV2 page up...so if there is some design you want on your fittings now is the time =)

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-economy-compression-fittings-etching-service.html


----------



## Revan654

Any ETA when the radiator mount and expansion ring for the pump will be instock at PPCS?


----------



## Tomiger

Looks awesome, can't wait to get the build finished


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome, can't wait to get the build finished


Ummm, I hope its just the lighting but the blue on the fittings dont seem to match the blue on the pump cover...?

BUT, I love the color scheme your going for!


----------



## Tomiger

Yea I've been looking at that now. The fitting colors are slightly different from the other Monsoon blue parts. Not enough to bother me too much.

Here is a side by side comparison of the EV2 and an older fitting, which matches the other Monsoon parts. Again, pretty subtle and under various lighting, not noticeable.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just a heads up:
> 
> Performance has the custom etched EV2 page up...so if there is some design you want on your fittings now is the time =)
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-hardline-economy-compression-fittings-etching-service.html


I want THIS...










The black would be the etched bit. On Black Nickel that would look sick as...









Obviously I am not looking to incorporate the fade out in the design.









~Ceadder


----------



## Koala Bear

I am getting an error code: 503 service unavailable when trying to access Performance PCS website. I hope this isn't a serious problem.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> I am getting an error code: 503 service unavailable when trying to access Performance PCS website. I hope this isn't a serious problem.


The UN did take control of the internet from the US, so anything is possible.
Bureaucratic nightmare, new taxes and lost freedom will be the new norm.


----------



## Koala Bear

I hear you InfoSeeker. The left does love to suppress the freedom of speech don't they. As to PPCS I hope they fix their problem ASAP.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> I hear you InfoSeeker. The left does love to suppress the freedom of speech don't they. As to PPCS I hope they fix their problem ASAP.


Working fine for me, I can login to check my order


----------



## Koala Bear

Thanks AllGamer working for me now


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any ETA when the radiator mount and expansion ring for the pump will be instock at PPCS?


They are in transit...you never know for sure how long they sit in customs but figure about another week to be safe. Hopefully sooner.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I want THIS...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black would be the etched bit. On Black Nickel that would look sick as...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously I am not looking to incorporate the fade out in the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I dig it...reminds me to the round "key" that releases the wolf in the final act of Underworld 2









Could repeat the round part 2 or three times around the diameter of the fitting and connect them with the black bands. I also agree it would look fairly similar to your image if it was on black chrome.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I want THIS...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The black would be the etched bit. On Black Nickel that would look sick as...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Obviously I am not looking to incorporate the fade out in the design.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dig it...reminds me to the round "key" that releases the wolf in the final act of Underworld 2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could repeat the round part 2 or three times around the diameter of the fitting and connect them with the black bands. I also agree it would look fairly similar to your image if it was on black chrome.
Click to expand...

Only wish my LN2 jug would sell. That's more than enough to handle the cost of 36 new fittings. Hopefully soon.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

(Homer voice). Mmmmm...Jugs


----------



## Mega Man

mmmmmm beer.... mmm jugs of beer


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## solidshark91493

Heres what I thought of in not that great 3D logo form for when I thought of "Boxgods"


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solidshark91493*
> 
> 
> 
> Heres what I thought of in not that great 3D logo form for when I thought of "Boxgods"


Is this an idea for an EV2 fitting etch? If so a few things to consider. First, it would need to be a "Two-color" design where one color is the fitting color and the second is the etched color--I know you were just tinkering around in a 3D program--just want to be sure everyone understands.

Second. Custom etching means just that. We can etch just about any design any builder wants on his fittings. Just want to make sure people don't think we are looking for a few designs to put on the fittings and that's it, (from some of the emails I have gotten that is how some people mistakenly understood it).


----------



## Deedaz

Looks like my order was the first for the custom etching







Really excited to see how they turn out!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> They are in transit...you never know for sure how long they sit in customs but figure about another week to be safe. Hopefully sooner.


Ok, Thanks. I'm in No rush since I still have about a month until my order from Case-Labs ships.

I Might order a second pump top to match the one I already have. Plus my Bitspower pump top doesn't fit my other Aquacomputer Pump.

btw, is their any images of the radiator mount? I want to plan out my loop while I wait.

Also heard theirs new G 1/4 plugs any images of those yet?

Also got the replacement part you sent to me the other day, Thanks for the replacement. It was fast at arriving.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Looks like my order was the first for the custom etching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really excited to see how they turn out!


I wondered if that was you


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Ok, Thanks. I'm in No rush since I still have about a month until my order from Case-Labs ships.
> 
> I Might order a second pump top to match the one I already have. Plus my Bitspower pump top doesn't fit my other Aquacomputer Pump.
> 
> btw, is their any images of the radiator mount? I want to plan out my loop while I wait.
> 
> Also heard theirs new G 1/4 plugs any images of those yet?
> 
> Also got the replacement part you sent to me the other day, Thanks for the replacement. It was fast at arriving.


The rad mount is more of a "kit" in that it is 2 each of 2 different brackets, spacers / standoffs, and a LOT of screws for different options. I tried to make it less "you must mount it like this" and more "here are some versatile parts you can use to mount it many different ways" if that makes sense.

Here are the two bracket shapes. They are black powder coated 3mm thick steel.



I will be posting video of the new fitting plugs today.


----------



## BoxGods

Speaking of videos--here is a "quick & dirty" how to on the press in anti-vortex tridents.






Uploading another video now covering the motor mounting tube extension rings (for longer D5's like the aquacomputer variant). Will post the Fitting Stop Plugs video next.


----------



## BoxGods

Here is the how to video for the new Motor Mounting Tube Extension Ring which adds 10mm of length for longer D5's (like Aquacomputer's)






Will post the Fitting Plugs video shortly.


----------



## BoxGods

Video for the new fitting plugs is up =)






Working on the video for the new EV2 fittings now...will post it in a few hours hopefully.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Here is the how to video for the new Motor Mounting Tube Extension Ring which adds 10mm of length for longer D5's (like Aquacomputer's)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post the Fitting Plugs video shortly.


Was Just getting ready to order 3 Aquacomputer D5's with aquabus guess I'll add 3 of these Extensions if they're in stock at Performance pc. Love this MMRS stuff


----------



## solidshark91493

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Is this an idea for an EV2 fitting etch? If so a few things to consider. First, it would need to be a "Two-color" design where one color is the fitting color and the second is the etched color--I know you were just tinkering around in a 3D program--just want to be sure everyone understands.
> 
> Second. Custom etching means just that. We can etch just about any design any builder wants on his fittings. Just want to make sure people don't think we are looking for a few designs to put on the fittings and that's it, (from some of the emails I have gotten that is how some people mistakenly understood it).


Was kind of an idea, but it was more of an idea for you haha.
Could do copper for the box and silver for the etch


----------



## Radnad

Pretty sure Boxgods moonlights doing hand puppet videos, haha! I like the plug fitting, gonna have to try them.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Was Just getting ready to order 3 Aquacomputer D5's with aquabus guess I'll add 3 of these Extensions if they're in stock at Performance pc. Love this MMRS stuff


Performance has already ordered these and they are in transit. Depending on how long it takes to clear customs etc. figure end of the week "ish". Maybe sooner.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Pretty sure Boxgods moonlights doing hand puppet videos, haha! I like the plug fitting, gonna have to try them.


I am the first one to admit I really (REALLY) suck at these videos. Weird voice, beat up hands full of scars, and my mind wanders all over the place. I shoot them at the shop which is about 90 F and super humid (I live in South Texas) and I have to turn the shop fans off or the camera picks up that hum.

I take a little comfort in watching Elon Musk do presentations...he stumbles all over the place...long pauses...lots of "um's" etc. and he is a Genius =)


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Pretty sure Boxgods moonlights doing hand puppet videos, haha! I like the plug fitting, gonna have to try them.
> 
> 
> 
> I am the first one to admit I really (REALLY) suck at these videos. Weird voice, beat up hands full of scars, and my mind wanders all over the place. I shoot them at the shop which is about 90 F and super humid (I live in South Texas) and I have to turn the shop fans off or the camera picks up that hum.
> 
> I take a little comfort in watching Elon Musk do presentations...he stumbles all over the place...long pauses...lots of "um's" etc. and he is a Genius =)
Click to expand...

No no, I like them. I see enough of Jayz2Face and Paul's Goutee. A video of straight content is a nice change of pace, keep it up sir!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Looks like my order was the first for the custom etching
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really excited to see how they turn out!
> 
> 
> 
> I wondered if that was you
Click to expand...

Yep!







I got the email about the order being shipped first thing this morning, so I was concerned that maybe they missed the engraving part and just sent the blank fittings. Had to email them to make sure lol. You should throw a pic up once you get them going!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Yep!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the email about the order being shipped first thing this morning, so I was concerned that maybe they missed the engraving part and just sent the blank fittings. Had to email them to make sure lol. You should throw a pic up once you get them going!


Yeah I got a nag email from Performance early Monday saying "the customer wants to know when these will ship" and I thought wow I just got the order Friday at 4:00 PM









It is a new "thing" so will take a few orders to work out all the kinks.


----------



## BoxGods

Here is the overview and installation instructions for the new EV2 fittings. It is on the long winded side--you can skip to time index 5:05 for the actual installation instructions.






I think all I have left to do for videos is the rad mounts...unless I am forgetting anything?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Yep!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the email about the order being shipped first thing this morning, so I was concerned that maybe they missed the engraving part and just sent the blank fittings. Had to email them to make sure lol. You should throw a pic up once you get them going!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I got a nag email from Performance early Monday saying "the customer wants to know when these will ship" and I thought wow I just got the order Friday at 4:00 PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is a new "thing" so will take a few orders to work out all the kinks.
Click to expand...

LOL I even said in my email I was expecting it to take at least a week so I was surprised at the shipping notification! I just wanted to make sure they didn't mess up and make me ship the fittings back to them


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Here is the overview and installation instructions for the new EV2 fittings. It is on the long winded side--you can skip to time index 5:05 for the actual installation instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think all I have left to do for videos is the rad mounts...unless I am forgetting anything?


@BoxGods No 25 pound weight attached???


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> @BoxGods No 25 pound weight attached???


They have a much better grip...but not THAT good =)


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> They have a much better grip...but not THAT good =)


They just need to do more exercise!!!! To tighten grip ?


----------



## BoxGods

Here is a contest Heads Up for you guys.

The EV2 etching design contest at Performance PC's should hit their Facebook page sometime tomorrow.

Four (4) Runners-up will each get a six pack of Ev2 fittings in the size and color of their choice with their design etched on.

One (1) Grand Prize winner will get a 12 pack of Ev2 fittings in the size and color of their choice, a $150 Performance PC's gift card (aka store credit) and $150 worth of Monsoon MMRS parts.

The contest will run thru October 31st and is open to "party-pants" worldwide =)

If you want to doodle around with some designs, the box sizes (available etch area) are:

For the 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 62.8mm wide.

For the 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 70.38 wide.

I would appreciate it if any of you guys that frequent other forums / Tweet / or w/e pass the word around.

Good luck guys


----------



## Radnad

@BoxGods Why no yellow fittings? Primochill seems to be the only one that does yellow, is it a tough color to do or just not enough demand?


----------



## Koala Bear

Why is it so hard to get an order delivered as requested. Yes this is a rant & I'm sorry in advance but this is just one thing after another going wrong with this forced upgrade of my PC which started with a dying graphics card almost 2 months ago.. To cut a long story short my last PPCS order last week using DHL has been side tracked to Australia Post parcel service due to a Public holiday here in Australia on Monday. The service I requested was DHL's 1-3 day business delivery. Which was great with my first PPCS order last month & better than UPS. I am so angry because Australia Post is dam incompetent & I didn't pay Aus $60 for them to deliver my package when ever they feel like it.So now I have to stay at homefor the next 2 days to make sure I get it. Time for a beer & to kill some tanks in War Thunder. Have a good day guys.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Yep!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the email about the order being shipped first thing this morning, so I was concerned that maybe they missed the engraving part and just sent the blank fittings. Had to email them to make sure lol. You should throw a pic up once you get them going!


Had a question about your artwork. I noticed you did not use the full 100% of the height available in the "design box" --you gould have gone about 1mm taller. Did you do that on purpose?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> @BoxGods Why no yellow fittings? Primochill seems to be the only one that does yellow, is it a tough color to do or just not enough demand?


Demand...we couldn't give them away sadly. I have to kick and scream just to get resellers to take orange.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Yep!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the email about the order being shipped first thing this morning, so I was concerned that maybe they missed the engraving part and just sent the blank fittings. Had to email them to make sure lol. You should throw a pic up once you get them going!
> 
> 
> 
> Had a question about your artwork. I noticed you did not use the full 100% of the height available in the "design box" --you gould have gone about 1mm taller. Did you do that on purpose?
Click to expand...

Oops, I may have sent the wrong file...Had a few versions I was messing with. I sent you an email with the correct one, thanks for the heads up


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Any way to extend the length of the temperature cable? Cable seems very short compared to my others.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Demand...we couldn't give them away sadly. I have to kick and scream just to get resellers to take orange.


Really? Because you guys actually pretty much nailed an epic burnt orange from what I can tell. Waaaaay too many companies go with a "zorch out your retinas" super bright candy or neon orange.

I'd order some fittings, but I have to figure out a design first and then sit down and actually spend time planning out the loop I'll be doing for my BOINC rig. .... Which for some reason will be watercooled before my gaming rig.


----------



## ruffhi

I note that you can select Silver or Brass as the underlying color. I can see examples of the Brass ... but not so many (any?) of the silver.

Is the white fitting (top right) on post #3118 an example of the silver?


----------



## Ceadderman

Are there plans to manufacture male/female extensions Geno?









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I note that you can select Silver or Brass as the underlying color. I can see examples of the Brass ... but not so many (any?) of the silver.
> 
> Is the white fitting (top right) on post #3118 an example of the silver?


That's the only silver one I see.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Any way to extend the length of the temperature cable? Cable seems very short compared to my others.


Yes any way you can think of it shouldn't affect the temp reading too much, solder them then heatshrink or a 2 pin dupont extension


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Any way to extend the length of the temperature cable? Cable seems very short compared to my others.


There is no reason you can't solder on extensions. Just be sure to isolate the joints with shrink tube.

*EDIT* Yeah what Mega Man said =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Really? Because you guys actually pretty much nailed an epic burnt orange from what I can tell. Waaaaay too many companies go with a "zorch out your retinas" super bright candy or neon orange.
> 
> I'd order some fittings, but I have to figure out a design first and then sit down and actually spend time planning out the loop I'll be doing for my BOINC rig. .... Which for some reason will be watercooled before my gaming rig.


I personally am a fan of the "fire tones". Seems like everything I build is orange/red/yellow =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I note that you can select Silver or Brass as the underlying color. I can see examples of the Brass ... but not so many (any?) of the silver.
> 
> Is the white fitting (top right) on post #3118 an example of the silver?


I asked Hank to not offer the brass as I think the silver of stainless looks better and most people will prefer it--but he felt like on some colors having the brass as an option, (green and gold for example) might be worth the extra hassle. We shall see. My personal advice is if you have any doubt at all, go with the stainless as the etch color will be that silvery whitish light gray pretty much forever where the brass will eventually tarnish from a gold to more of a brown after a few years.

In the end it is personal choice. Here is the silver:


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are there plans to manufacture male/female extensions Geno?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I keep forgetting these...

I plan to do three lengths. 12mm, 24mm, and 36mm tho I am not sure if there is ever really a need for the 36mm. Any thoughts? I am also not sure if I should do them to match the OD of fittings...or the base leg of the rotaries?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are there plans to manufacture male/female extensions Geno?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I keep forgetting these...
> 
> I plan to do three lengths. 12mm, 24mm, and 36mm tho I am not sure if there is ever really a need for the 36mm. Any thoughts? I am also not sure if I should do them to match the OD of fittings...or the base leg of the rotaries?
Click to expand...

Drop the 36 and add a 6 or an 8. 36 really is too long and while the latter aren't long enough for major clearance issues they are good for getting fittings up off the blocks for a creatively different look. For my build I was considering a two tone look of connection fittings. But I can accomplish this with extensions using 1 color choice for Hardline fittings.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Are there plans to manufacture male/female extensions Geno?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I keep forgetting these...
> 
> I plan to do three lengths. 12mm, 24mm, and 36mm tho I am not sure if there is ever really a need for the 36mm. Any thoughts? I am also not sure if I should do them to match the OD of fittings...or the base leg of the rotaries?
Click to expand...

Definitely match the base leg


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question: Any way to extend the length of the temperature cable? Cable seems very short compared to my others.


You can also buy temp sensor extensions if you don't feel like making your own. I bought some because the monsoon temp senors come with a fan connector on them I needed the small 2 pin slim version whatever that's called. cheaper just to make your own. I had too much stuff going on at the time to add another thing to the to do list.


----------



## Ceadderman

I went and took a chance on submitting my idea for the EV2s. Dunno how it's gonna turn out, but thank you and Performance for giving us a great opportunity.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Share your idea. Now! And how did you post it to PPCs ... just a long, short jpg?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Share your idea. Now! And how did you post it to PPCs ... just a long, short jpg?


Performance-PCs fB page

I am currently at the top of the announcement.









Dunno if the amount of Likes plays a part in the giveaway, but if you like my design you know what to do.









It was actually a short .jpg, but I did describe what I'm going for.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

I'm working on a version for my Liquorice Allsorts build. Hard to get multiple colors in there (impossible) so I am going with one of my sub-themes. I'll post it here when I am finished.

BTW ... how good is the wrap. There is a point in these cylinder items where the end meets the beginning ... you can see it on the ones already posted. I prefer versions that contain some overlap ... but this requires that the two ends met perfectly. Any 'forced' space between the two ends destroys the pattern.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Drop the 36 and add a 6 or an 8. 36 really is too long and while the latter aren't long enough for major clearance issues they are good for getting fittings up off the blocks for a creatively different look. For my build I was considering a two tone look of connection fittings. But I can accomplish this with extensions using 1 color choice for Hardline fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


So you think a 6, 12, and 18mm might be better? What about the OD? Should it match the fitting OD or the base leg of the rotary?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm working on a version for my Liquorice Allsorts build. Hard to get multiple colors in there (impossible) so I am going with one of my sub-themes. I'll post it here when I am finished.
> 
> BTW ... how good is the wrap. There is a point in these cylinder items where the end meets the beginning ... you can see it on the ones already posted. I prefer versions that contain some overlap ... but this requires that the two ends met perfectly. Any 'forced' space between the two ends destroys the pattern.


We do the best we can with the artwork we get. It helps if you use the box (available area or "work envelope") provided on the template--the dimensions are:

• For the 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 62.8mm wide.
• For the 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 70.38 wide.

I am etching a Zebra stripe pattern on black fittings that wraps around to use as an example:



And here is the Ghost Squadron log used by Koenigsegg in their supercars:


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm working on a version for my Liquorice Allsorts build. Hard to get multiple colors in there (impossible) so I am going with one of my sub-themes. I'll post it here when I am finished.
> 
> BTW ... how good is the wrap. There is a point in these cylinder items where the end meets the beginning ... you can see it on the ones already posted. I prefer versions that contain some overlap ... but this requires that the two ends met perfectly. Any 'forced' space between the two ends destroys the pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> We do the best we can with the artwork we get. It helps if you use the box (available area or "work envelope") provided on the template--the dimensions are:
> 
> • For the 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 62.8mm wide.
> • For the 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 70.38 wide.
Click to expand...

BoxGods ... thanks for the wrap confirmation. I saw those dimensions quoted by you earlier so I am working with a GIMP image that is 2600 px by 12560 px ... or 200 px per mm. This is why I went crazy with 64Gb of ram ... just to do the etching on my monsoon fittings







.


----------



## Revan654

It looks like PPCS is closed until the hurricane passes, Looks like I will have to wait a little bit longer for MonSoon ring pump addon and radiator mounts to show up on their site.


----------



## ruffhi

Here are a couple of options. Any preference?

A


B


C


D


E


F


----------



## Ceadderman

Have you a box template that you can put up Geno?









I'm running the 1/2"x5/8" tubing.









I will put the end result on PPCs fB page if I can get one.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Drop the 36 and add a 6 or an 8. 36 really is too long and while the latter aren't long enough for major clearance issues they are good for getting fittings up off the blocks for a creatively different look. For my build I was considering a two tone look of connection fittings. But I can accomplish this with extensions using 1 color choice for Hardline fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you think a 6, 12, and 18mm might be better? What about the OD? Should it match the fitting OD or the base leg of the rotary?
Click to expand...

Match for sure. I don't mind a lip in some setups. But tbh, I like a clean unobtrusive look.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Here are a couple of options. Any preference?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> A
> 
> 
> B
> 
> 
> C
> 
> 
> D
> 
> 
> E
> 
> 
> F


I would go with a variation of D. Put a bit of space at the start and end so you don't get any overlap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you a box template that you can put up Geno?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the 1/2"x5/8" tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will put the end result on PPCs fB page if I can get one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Drop the 36 and add a 6 or an 8. 36 really is too long and while the latter aren't long enough for major clearance issues they are good for getting fittings up off the blocks for a creatively different look. For my build I was considering a two tone look of connection fittings. But I can accomplish this with extensions using 1 color choice for Hardline fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you think a 6, 12, and 18mm might be better? What about the OD? Should it match the fitting OD or the base leg of the rotary?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Match for sure. I don't mind a lip in some setups. But tbh, I like a clean unobtrusive look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

There are links to the template on the ppcs listing here. It uses adobe illustrator, you can download it for free.


----------



## Revan654

a word of warning, Monsoon fittings and Alphacool 13mm tubing are not compatible with one another. Looks like I'm going have to some shuffling around get ahold of PPCS once they return to see what can be done.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> a word of warning, Monsoon fittings and Alphacool 13mm tubing are not compatible with one another. Looks like I'm going have to some shuffling around get ahold of PPCS once they return to see what can be done.


Coulda told you that.









Considering AC is Metric and Monsoon is SAE it will never work.









On the issue of the template. I cannot see picking up Adobe Illustrator for $20 a month, to get a template box I will likely only use once or twice.







Does Google have a compatible template? Prolly not huh.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> a word of warning, Monsoon fittings and Alphacool 13mm tubing are not compatible with one another. Looks like I'm going have to some shuffling around get ahold of PPCS once they return to see what can be done.
> 
> 
> 
> Coulda told you that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering AC is Metric and Monsoon is SAE it will never work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the issue of the template. I cannot see picking up Adobe Illustrator for $20 a month, to get a template box I will likely only use once or twice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does Google have a compatible template? Prolly not huh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Just use the trial version for free. I just copied and pasted out of paint and resized the image accordingly.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> a word of warning, Monsoon fittings and Alphacool 13mm tubing are not compatible with one another. Looks like I'm going have to some shuffling around get ahold of PPCS once they return to see what can be done.


If you don't want to wait, You could always order tubing off amazon I know they sell monsoon tubing I think titanrig is the seller prime shipping. I'm not sure if the tubing cost more on amazon but whenever I can find what i'm looking for on amazon that has to do with pc water cooling I buy it from them. If something is wrong with the order or I just ordered the wrong thing I have no problems returning and usually don't have to pay for shipping it back.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Coulda told you that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering AC is Metric and Monsoon is SAE it will never work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the issue of the template. I cannot see picking up Adobe Illustrator for $20 a month, to get a template box I will likely only use once or twice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does Google have a compatible template? Prolly not huh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I assume Bitspower and Alphacool work together fine.


----------



## Unnatural

I have some question about the CCFL plugs:
- is it safe to use them on the same port used for filling the res?
- my res has the D5 at the base, can I use a bulb almost as long as the whole tube, or should I go for the shorter one, leaving some clearance from the bottom?
- any experience with white light on clear frosted tube filled with pastel white coolant?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Here are a couple of options. Any preference?
> 
> A
> 
> 
> B
> 
> 
> C
> 
> 
> D
> 
> 
> E
> 
> 
> F


I would probably reverse it as the black is what etches...unless you want to etch off that much of the color?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you a box template that you can put up Geno?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the 1/2"x5/8" tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will put the end result on PPCs fB page if I can get one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Match for sure. I don't mind a lip in some setups. But tbh, I like a clean unobtrusive look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I only have the template in .ai format...do you have access to Adobe illustrator? Or a program that can open .ai files?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> a word of warning, Monsoon fittings and Alphacool 13mm tubing are not compatible with one another. Looks like I'm going have to some shuffling around get ahold of PPCS once they return to see what can be done.


Are you talking about the EV2 fittings?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Coulda told you that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Considering AC is Metric and Monsoon is SAE it will never work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the issue of the template. I cannot see picking up Adobe Illustrator for $20 a month, to get a template box I will likely only use once or twice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does Google have a compatible template? Prolly not huh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Any VECTOR file format should work for the laser.

The box dimensions are:

• For the 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 62.8mm wide.
• For the 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 70.38 wide


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I would probably reverse it as the black is what etches...unless you want to etch off that much of the color?


Thx BoxGods ... my pics are trying to illustrate what the fitting would look like (I was planning on a matte black fitting with silver below). I guess the final picture has to be a 'mask' type and I will reverse it as noted.

Re ai files ... you can open them with GIMP ... that is the software (free) that I used to generate my pictures.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> I have some question about the CCFL plugs:
> - is it safe to use them on the same port used for filling the res?
> - my res has the D5 at the base, can I use a bulb almost as long as the whole tube, or should I go for the shorter one, leaving some clearance from the bottom?
> - any experience with white light on clear frosted tube filled with pastel white coolant?


I can't think of any reason they would not work on a fill port. Just be careful with the bulb (common sense stuff--if the fill port is inside your case make sure there is physically enough space to remove the bulb without bending it). Also if the fill port is on the outside of your case...how will / would you route the power wire from a CCFL plug?

The listed bulb lengths take having a D5 end cap into account. IOW a 100mm bulb will fit into a 100mm tube that has a TRP w/D5 on the bottom.

No...sounds like it would look cool, but keep in mind the light is not magic--it will not shine thru solids--turning on the light in your kitchen will not light up your bathroom (thru the walls).


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I can't think of any reason they would not work on a fill port. Just be careful with the bulb (common sense stuff--if the fill port is inside your case make sure there is physically enough space to remove the bulb without bending it). Also if the fill port is on the outside of your case...how will / would you route the power wire from a CCFL plug?


Luckily, my case is a Thermaltake P5, so the reservoir is inside and outside at the same time








What I was afraid of is the ccfl plug being too fragile or requiring too much torque to be properly installed on an already assembled rig








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> No...sounds like it would look cool, but keep in mind the light is not magic--it will not shine thru solids--turning on the light in your kitchen will not light up your bathroom (thru the walls).


LOL








I'll give it a try








Thanks for the reply


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Are you talking about the EV2 fittings?


I figured out why, Dam alphacool increased the tubing size by 1mm, to force you to use their fittings.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I figured out why, Dam alphacool increased the tubing size by 1mm, to force you to use their fittings.


So what is the actual OD...do you know?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> So what is the actual OD...do you know?


ID - 10mm (3/8)
OD - 13mm (1/2)


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you a box template that you can put up Geno?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running the 1/2"x5/8" tubing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will put the end result on PPCs fB page if I can get one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Match for sure. I don't mind a lip in some setups. But tbh, I like a clean unobtrusive look.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only have the template in .ai format...do you have access to Adobe illustrator? Or a program that can open .ai files?
> 
> Any VECTOR file format should work for the laser.
> 
> The box dimensions are:
> 
> • For the 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 62.8mm wide.
> *• For the 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 70.38 wide*
Click to expand...

Awesome. Just installed GIMP, so it's nice to have that information on hand.









Thanks so very much Geno.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I would probably reverse it as the black is what etches...unless you want to etch off that much of the color?
> 
> 
> 
> Thx BoxGods ... my pics are trying to illustrate what the fitting would look like (I was planning on a matte black fitting with silver below). I guess the final picture has to be a 'mask' type and I will reverse it as noted.
> 
> Re ai files ... you can open them with GIMP ... that is the software (free) that I used to generate my pictures.
Click to expand...

Got it downloaded and it is working. Though am not sure how to fix it so the vector box is the appropriate size. I pasted the file that I picked off PPCs and it's showing the instructions with the Example Tree and the two vector boxes are all the way down on the lower rh corner. They couldn't be any smaller.









How about posting JUST the vector boxes.

I don't know who set their download links but I went for the one that it should've been straight off. Wrong. It's the blowup schematic of the fitting.









So, okay I have a program now that I can use to work a Vector. +Rep to you ruffhi.









Figured it out. Just fill in the blanks using the information provided by Geno.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Are you talking about the EV2 fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> I figured out why, Dam alphacool increased the tubing size by 1mm, to force you to use their fittings.
Click to expand...

Actually they didn't. They were and always have been Metric. You can use any metric fitting and it should mate up just fine.

But, if you want Monsoon, then just get Monsoon brand tubing. That way there is no question of compatibility with the Monsoon fittings. Just remember that 5/8" is the largest diameter offered in the lineup.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Are you talking about the EV2 fittings?
> 
> 
> 
> I figured out why, Dam alphacool increased the tubing size by 1mm, to force you to use their fittings.
Click to expand...

I see this happen all the time, and I always tell people use the same brand fittings and tubing to be safest. See too many frustrated users have to put off thier builds waiting on new tubing. Tubing is the cheapest thing in a build, no reason to risk it.


----------



## Revan654

That's the thing, I can only find one fitting from AlphaCool which is that size. It's completely sold out everywhere. This completely destroyed the theme I was going for.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I see this happen all the time, and I always tell people use the same brand fittings and tubing to be safest. See too many frustrated users have to put off thier builds waiting on new tubing. Tubing is the cheapest thing in a build, no reason to risk it.


This is NOT TRUE with the new EV2 fittings as they are designed to fit a wide range of tube sizes.

The 3/8 x 1/2 will fit ANY type of rigid tube (plastic, metal, carbon fiber, glass) with an outside diameter between 11.8 and 13.2mm.

The 1/2 x 5/8 will fit ANY type of rigid tube (plastic, metal, carbon fiber, glass) with an outside diameter between 15.2 and 16.2mm.

Brand or type of tube is irrelevant as long as it is rigid and falls between those OD ranges.

I should add, not just fit, but fit really well.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> That's the thing, I can only find one fitting from AlphaCool which is that size. It's completely sold out everywhere. This completely destroyed the theme I was going for.


Make it work man you can do it







. This is the fun part about builds to me. Once you have all the figuring out done the rest is easy. I have so many extra parts from things not going right it's kinda nice though because I can usually find a use for them later.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I see this happen all the time, and I always tell people use the same brand fittings and tubing to be safest. See too many frustrated users have to put off thier builds waiting on new tubing. Tubing is the cheapest thing in a build, no reason to risk it.
> 
> 
> 
> This is NOT TRUE with the new EV2 fittings as they are designed to fit a wide range of tube sizes.
> 
> The 3/8 x 1/2 will fit ANY type of rigid tube (plastic, metal, carbon fiber, glass) with an outside diameter between 11.8 and 13.2mm.
> 
> The 1/2 x 5/8 will fit ANY type of rigid tube (plastic, metal, carbon fiber, glass) with an outside diameter between 15.2 and 16.2mm.
> 
> Brand or type of tube is irrelevant as long as it is rigid and falls between those OD ranges.
> 
> I should add, not just fit, but fit really well.
Click to expand...

Yes yes can't forget about the handy dandy color coded tubing gauge. Another great innovation. This is just another reason why I really should switch to EV2's. Just wish I could come up with some good artwork for them...


----------



## Ceadderman

^Caps Shield an Thor's Hammer?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I see this happen all the time, and I always tell people use the same brand fittings and tubing to be safest. See too many frustrated users have to put off thier builds waiting on new tubing. Tubing is the cheapest thing in a build, no reason to risk it.
> 
> 
> 
> This is NOT TRUE with the new EV2 fittings as they are designed to fit a wide range of tube sizes.
> 
> *The 3/8 x 1/2 will fit ANY type of rigid tube (plastic, metal, carbon fiber, glass) with an outside diameter between 11.8 and 13.2mm.
> 
> The 1/2 x 5/8 will fit ANY type of rigid tube (plastic, metal, carbon fiber, glass) with an outside diameter between 15.2 and 16.2mm.*
> 
> Brand or type of tube is irrelevant as long as it is rigid and falls between those OD ranges.
> 
> I should add, not just fit, but fit really well.
Click to expand...

Quoting for























Fareeaking AWESOMENESS!









~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

What is it you guy like about the ev2's Just the fact that you can have them etched? Or do you think they're sexy? I really haven't looked close at them until just a few minutes ago because they never drew my interest because anything with the word economy (careful use of money, resources, etc.) in it really doesn't belong in a water cooled loop lol







. Now that I've taken a closer look at them and watched the videos all the way to the end WOW very nice!!! That etching really makes a difference. I can't wait to see them used in builds to see what you guys are coming up with. Unfortunately I don't think I'll ever use them because if they can't hold a 30 lb dumbbell then nope It's a no go


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> What is it you guy like about the ev2's Just the fact that you can have them etched? Or do you think they're sexy? I really haven't looked close at them until just a few minutes ago because they never drew my interest because anything with the word economy (careful use of money, resources, etc.) in it really doesn't belong in a water cooled loop lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Now that I've taken a closer look at them and watched the videos all the way to the end WOW very nice!!! That etching really makes a difference. I can't wait to see them used in builds to see what you guys are coming up with. Unfortunately I don't think I'll ever use them because if they can't hold a 30 lb dumbbell then nope It's a no go


I like them because I can fit them into my theme'd build.

As well as the open compatibility over a broad range of tubing sizes. Although I just fount this out today and I get Monsoon brand hardline for the sheer smexiness of it.

I have a 4pack of Chainguns collecting dust. It's been over 2 years since I got them and because PPCs was out of stock on them for so long I hadda change up the fittings. I have 30(or more) fittings going in the build and waiting around for restock simply did not feel like the right way to go. It took PPCs that long to restock 1/2"x5/8" Black and Red Chaingun fittings. We're talking almost a year. What really sucks is anything over 30 days they won't take em and give me a store credit after a restocking fee. Not that big a deal, but selling them is taking longer than I had hoped. Oh well se les vie.

So now I am selling 30 Economies to get my fittings to blend with my Theme. All good. I'm not mad at all an I am sure I can sell them because they are the red nickel with 10% of them being Black Nickel. So they will sell, it's all about when.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

OK--

I finally got around to taking some pictures of the rad mount kit for you guys. A little hard to explain even with pictures (I suck at explaining).

It includes three sizes of screws (M4 and the two SAE sizes) and those three sets come in two lengths--one for "direct" mounting and one for thru fan mounting.



The kit includes two each of the "T" and "Y" mounting brackets which are powder coated 3mm thick steel.



The brackets can be mixed and matched and rotated and configured as needed to cover a fairly large (but obviously not all) range of possible reservoir configurations and mounting positions and orientations.



The brackets have 12mm of adjustment and the slots for the mounts have 24mm of range adjustment--so you get 72mm of total adjustment range for reservoir length...considering the tubes come in 50mm increments that *should* cover a fairly wide range.



The brackets will accept our 12mm, 25mm, and 50mm tall mounts so you have a fairly wide range of height options as well.

All of the above being said...these will NOT cover every single possible reservoir configuration mounted to every possible radiator size in every possible position. It will hopefully cover most of them tho.


----------



## geox19

@BoxGods What the? you come up with some of the most practical but sick looking products. Maybe you are the BoxGod Seriously though when i was doing my last build I want to mount an mmrs res at the middle/ top of my case so it looked like it was floating but the rad was getting in the way.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> OK--
> 
> I finally got around to taking some pictures of the rad mount kit for you guys. A little hard to explain even with pictures (I suck at explaining).
> 
> It includes three sizes of screws (M4 and the two SAE sizes) and those three sets come in two lengths--one for "direct" mounting and one for thru fan mounting.
> 
> 
> 
> The kit includes two each of the "T" and "Y" mounting brackets which are powder coated 3mm thick steel.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brackets can be mixed and matched and rotated and configured as needed to cover a fairly large (but obviously not all) range of possible reservoir configurations and mounting positions and orientations.
> 
> 
> 
> The brackets have 12mm of adjustment and the slots for the mounts have 24mm of range adjustment--so you get 72mm of total adjustment range for reservoir length...considering the tubes come in 50mm increments that *should* cover a fairly wide range.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brackets will accept our 12mm, 25mm, and 50mm tall mounts so you have a fairly wide range of height options as well.
> 
> All of the above being said...these will NOT cover every single possible reservoir configuration mounted to every possible radiator size in every possible position. It will hopefully cover most of them tho.


Sweet! Now I can mount my MMRS setup using a 120 fan in the front of my build. I was considering keeping the stock 230 up front, but that meant that I have to figger out some way of mounting the two Radiators offset to the fan. Since I plan to rivet the radiator brackets in place for stability reasons, that was probably a bad idea. But a 120 will fit between everything and allow for airflow to reach the caps and mosfets of my inverted board.









In case you hadn't figgered out by now I plan to parallel the radiators and mount the MMRS between them both using the front of the case. Now I just have to figure out the length of the standoffs to get the MMRS flush with the sides closest to the MB.









?: Are you going to make 140 compatible brackets as well?

~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

Stop it BoxGods your new products are making me want to start a new build. Definitely unsubscribing from this thread.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Stop it BoxGods your new products are making me want to start a new build. Definitely unsubscribing from this thread.


*HOW'S ABOUT DEM GIGANTES?*









There now you cannot unsub.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Sorry--forgot to mention one of the most obvious things...available in 120mm and 140mm sizes.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sorry--forgot to mention one of the most obvious things...available in 120mm and 140mm sizes.


I know you've probably said it somewhere in the thread but I'm too excited to go back and look, ETA to PPCS?


----------



## eucalyptus

I see you are talking about tubing and EV2 here. I just wanted to check in with my 2 cents. I have original Monsoon tubing which I find fit best with the yellow O-rings in the EV2 series.

I do also have a piece of Primochill tube that seems unable to fit any of the O-rings, either too big or too small. Well, I don't care since I only use Monsoon tubing with Monsoon fittings. But just wanted to add that in case someone else is going to ask the question









At the same time, I can't see why someone would use anything else than Monsoon tubing with their fittings. The tubing has a great price! OK, in Europe it's another story because no store is stocking anything up and are only selling out the few pieces they have left. PPCS seems to be the only store in the whole world that has every Monsoon part :/ Too expensive to ship overseas.

You are doing great work Gene







I would just like to see you expand the business a little bit hehe, don't be afraid! You can easily be big as Bitspower or any other brand, you just have to take the move, and we are here with you!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> OK--
> 
> I finally got around to taking some pictures of the rad mount kit for you guys.


Any stores in the US carrying them yet? It's going be a little while before PPCS returns to normal and opens back up due to damage Hurricane caused.


----------



## jvillaveces

According to their website, PPCS will be open for business tomorrow


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> I see you are talking about tubing and EV2 here. I just wanted to check in with my 2 cents. I have original Monsoon tubing which I find fit best with the yellow O-rings in the EV2 series.
> 
> I do also have a piece of Primochill tube that seems unable to fit any of the O-rings, either too big or too small. Well, I don't care since I only use Monsoon tubing with Monsoon fittings. But just wanted to add that in case someone else is going to ask the question
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the same time, I can't see why someone would use anything else than Monsoon tubing with their fittings. The tubing has a great price! OK, in Europe it's another story because no store is stocking anything up and are only selling out the few pieces they have left. PPCS seems to be the only store in the whole world that has every Monsoon part :/ Too expensive to ship overseas.
> 
> You are doing great work Gene
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would just like to see you expand the business a little bit hehe, don't be afraid! You can easily be big as Bitspower or any other brand, you just have to take the move, and we are here with you!


Although I appreciate the kind words







this kind of misses the point slightly. Tube is made by extrusion which is a fairly low tolerance process that leaves fairly large (by engineering standards) differences in the O.D. of tube not just between different manufacturers but also from production batch to production batch, and even from one end of a batch and the other. Even our Monsoon tube. So it is better to take a minute and use the sizing gauge to measure the tube you have on hand for each build. The yellow bag might be best this time and the green bag the next.

And EV2 will fit ANY brand of tube as long as the OD is within the size range. For the 3/8 x 1/2 that range is 11.8mm to 13.2mm and for the 1/2 x 5/8 the range is 15.2mm to 16.2mm. Those should cover 95% of the tube out there--and if your tube is outside of that range it is highly unlikely any other fitting would work either.

Before I forget--Did you enter your Leaf Design into the contest at PPCS? It is open to builders world wide, so you should man.


----------



## Ceadderman

Well this is getting to be annoying.

Taught myself how to resize pixel to mm.

277x51 = 70.36x13mm

So I applied this knowledge incorrectly it seems because the image while fitting the box is simply too small and short to fill the box.

Now I just need to know how to grab the image to move it to the left side of the box. I figure that resizing the image via pixel rate in paint is the way to get it to the size I need it to be and then copy and paste it to the box. But I need to crop the image to get it to a clear visual of what's needed to be etched and what isn't. This means all the Grey has to go and white takes it's place? I am so confused right now.









Gimme hand tools and a system to build an I will make short work of it. This vector stuff is for the birds.









~Ceadder


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Although I appreciate the kind words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this kind of misses the point slightly. Tube is made by extrusion which is a fairly low tolerance process that leaves fairly large (by engineering standards) differences in the O.D. of tube not just between different manufacturers but also from production batch to production batch, and even from one end of a batch and the other. Even our Monsoon tube. So it is better to take a minute and use the sizing gauge to measure the tube you have on hand for each build. The yellow bag might be best this time and the green bag the next.
> 
> And EV2 will fit ANY brand of tube as long as the OD is within the size range. For the 3/8 x 1/2 that range is 11.8mm to 13.2mm and for the 1/2 x 5/8 the range is 15.2mm to 16.2mm. Those should cover 95% of the tube out there--and if your tube is outside of that range it is highly unlikely any other fitting would work either.
> 
> Before I forget--Did you enter your Leaf Design into the contest at PPCS? It is open to builders world wide, so you should man.


Well, I could be doing something wrong with the Primochill tube, need to take a closer look later.

A man, I am glade you think I should participate in the competition. But since you already shipped everything I need, I feel it's better someone else take the chance to win







If I remember correctly, the winners are chosen by Monsoon staff? I believe you got enough of my leaves by now hahaha it wouldn't be fair if I won either.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well this is getting to be annoying.
> 
> Taught myself how to resize pixel to mm.
> 
> 277x51 = 70.36x13mm
> 
> So I applied this knowledge incorrectly it seems because the image while fitting the box is simply too small and short to fill the box.
> 
> Now I just need to know how to grab the image to move it to the left side of the box. I figure that resizing the image via pixel rate in paint is the way to get it to the size I need it to be and then copy and paste it to the box. But I need to crop the image to get it to a clear visual of what's needed to be etched and what isn't. This means all the Grey has to go and white takes it's place? I am so confused right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gimme hand tools and a system to build an I will make short work of it. This vector stuff is for the birds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Well, the reason why it doesn't work is because vector work and the ai. box Gene have is made for Adobe illustrator







I can promise you it's easier if you use that







the difficult part is just to come up with an design and sketch it in Adobe...


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eucalyptus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Well this is getting to be annoying.
> 
> Taught myself how to resize pixel to mm.
> 
> 277x51 = 70.36x13mm
> 
> So I applied this knowledge incorrectly it seems because the image while fitting the box is simply too small and short to fill the box.
> 
> Now I just need to know how to grab the image to move it to the left side of the box. I figure that resizing the image via pixel rate in paint is the way to get it to the size I need it to be and then copy and paste it to the box. But I need to crop the image to get it to a clear visual of what's needed to be etched and what isn't. This means all the Grey has to go and white takes it's place? I am so confused right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gimme hand tools and a system to build an I will make short work of it. This vector stuff is for the birds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well, the reason why it doesn't work is because vector work and the ai. box Gene have is made for Adobe illustrator
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can promise you it's easier if you use that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the difficult part is just to come up with an design and sketch it in Adobe...
Click to expand...

I would use adobe if I had access to it. It's a little nerve wracking but I am new to vectors. I did figure out that 5 ticks = the base height of the render at previous setting. I ended up pushing it back up to 70 pixels which was slightly over 6 ticks on the left side rule. Now I just have to go into Paint and edit the image to make it black and white. iirc, from an earlier convrsation the Black lines need to be changed to white and vice versa so that the white (The black designed portion) is the proper surface to etch. So what little I have learned can be applied fairly simply. It's simply the layout of the program that I am having fun learning.









Boy this is going to be fun...  I just need to put three of these together and adjust the wrap so they blend well with the insignias. This is pic is before the increase to a better size. Which is why so dinky.









Will look awesomesauceness no?









~Ceadder


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I would use adobe if I had access to it. It's a little nerve wracking but I am new to vectors. I did figure out that 5 ticks = the base height of the render at previous setting. I ended up pushing it back up to 70 pixels which was slightly over 6 ticks on the left side rule. Now I just have to go into Paint and edit the image to make it black and white. iirc, from an earlier convrsation the Black lines need to be changed to white and vice versa so that the white (The black designed portion) is the proper surface to etch. So what little I have learned can be applied fairly simply. It's simply the layout of the program that I am having fun learning.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Boy this is going to be fun...  I just need to put three of these together and adjust the wrap so they blend well with the insignias. This is pic is before the increase to a better size. Which is why so dinky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will look awesomesauceness no?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


the way you have it would make the only color on the fitting be your design the rest would be etched...box said the black is whats etched away


----------



## Deedaz

Something like this Ceadder? I tried messing with it in gimp, but I have no idea how to use that program and my adobe trial ended







I can send you the paint file if you want it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Something like this Ceadder? I tried messing with it in gimp, but I have no idea how to use that program and my adobe trial ended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can send you the paint file if you want it.


That is awesome! Thank you so much. Now I can fill that vector with 3 of them to complete a full wrap. No need to send the paint file. I will just grab it from here and put it to work. +Rep to you for good lookin out!









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Something like this Ceadder? I tried messing with it in gimp, but I have no idea how to use that program and my adobe trial ended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can send you the paint file if you want it.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is awesome! Thank you so much. Now I can fill that vector with 3 of them to complete a full wrap. No need to send the paint file. I will just grab it from here and put it to work. +Rep to you for good lookin out!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

No problem, I can't wait to see how they turn out!


----------



## BoxGods

Looks like Ceadderman, Deedaz, and I cross posted












I seriously dislike Illustrator (once you *think* in CAD or Solidworks using illustrator feels a bit like being punished) but even with my hacking it only took about 30 minutes. See if that is what you had in mind.

My unsolicited advice...simplify it a bit. The small connecting lines around the perimeter (6 of them) I would consider leaving those out. Just my two cents.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks like Ceadderman, Deedaz, and I cross posted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seriously dislike Illustrator (once you *think* in CAD or Solidworks using illustrator feels a bit like being punished) but even with my hacking it only took about 30 minutes. See if that is what you had in mind.
> 
> My unsolicited advice...simplify it a bit. The small connecting lines around the perimeter (6 of them) I would consider leaving those out. Just my two cents.


Looks good an yeah by the looks of the last 2 on the RH side coming in short, I may just do that and simplify things by going with just the Imperial Insignia.









Thank you as well Geno. We have such a great community here. +Rep to you as well.









Oh hey I have a question, could you come up with a way to stabilize the measuring rules at the center of the fitting? I'm thinking a 3 point connection setup to lock the rule in place.

A tapered screw to fit the internal of the block and G1/4 fitting on the back side and a bracket to hold the rule to screw onto the base with a hole to allow the bolt and wingnut to lock the rule static. I came up with this idea awhile back when I was putting my son's crib together. It has a drop in shelf that has shelf brackets that can be screwed in place on the shelf to keep it stable. Think IKEA style brackets. Obviously I can't use them to lock in the rules, but seems like a pretty simple way of getting the best measurement from one fitting to the next.









You would insert the tapered head screw into the opening, connect the bracket, screw in the fitting to snug on your connection point and do the same to the other connection point. Then attach the rule and connect up with the other rules to the opposite end. Get your measurements, bend your tubing and disassemble from the fittings in order to fill the gap.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks good an yeah by the looks of the last 2 on the RH side coming in short, I may just do that and simplify things by going with just the Imperial Insignia.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you as well Geno. We have such a great community here. +Rep to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh hey I have a question, could you come up with a way to stabilize the measuring rules at the center of the fitting? I'm thinking a 3 point connection setup to lock the rule in place.
> 
> A tapered screw to fit the internal of the block and G1/4 fitting on the back side and a bracket to hold the rule to screw onto the base with a hole to allow the bolt and wingnut to lock the rule static. I came up with this idea awhile back when I was putting my son's crib together. It has a drop in shelf that has shelf brackets that can be screwed in place on the shelf to keep it stable. Think IKEA style brackets. Obviously I can't use them to lock in the rules, but seems like a pretty simple way of getting the best measurement from one fitting to the next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would insert the tapered head screw into the opening, connect the bracket, screw in the fitting to snug on your connection point and do the same to the other connection point. Then attach the rule and connect up with the other rules to the opposite end. Get your measurements, bend your tubing and disassemble from the fittings in order to fill the gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have several little "tools" designed up to aid measuring--the issue always comes down to cost because most people will only use the measuring kit one or two times at most it needs to be as low cost as possible and still do the job.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks good an yeah by the looks of the last 2 on the RH side coming in short, I may just do that and simplify things by going with just the Imperial Insignia.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you as well Geno. We have such a great community here. +Rep to you as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh hey I have a question, could you come up with a way to stabilize the measuring rules at the center of the fitting? I'm thinking a 3 point connection setup to lock the rule in place.
> 
> A tapered screw to fit the internal of the block and G1/4 fitting on the back side and a bracket to hold the rule to screw onto the base with a hole to allow the bolt and wingnut to lock the rule static. I came up with this idea awhile back when I was putting my son's crib together. It has a drop in shelf that has shelf brackets that can be screwed in place on the shelf to keep it stable. Think IKEA style brackets. Obviously I can't use them to lock in the rules, but seems like a pretty simple way of getting the best measurement from one fitting to the next.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You would insert the tapered head screw into the opening, connect the bracket, screw in the fitting to snug on your connection point and do the same to the other connection point. Then attach the rule and connect up with the other rules to the opposite end. Get your measurements, bend your tubing and disassemble from the fittings in order to fill the gap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have several little "tools" designed up to aid measuring--the issue always comes down to cost because most people will only use the measuring kit one or two times at most it needs to be as low cost as possible and still do the job.
Click to expand...

There are guys like me who would purchase a couple of them for about $5. Maybe a touch more if they're well designed.









I hear you though. It can be hard to justify such a simple tool for so little.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Here is one version of a slightly simplified version. The circles are not spaced correctly for the wrap, (tired of messing with it) but you get the idea.



Keep in mind that the black portion would actually be a much lighter stainless / silver color and the white would be your fitting color--meaning the design will not have the heaviness it does as presented--looks TOO heavy in the file IMO but I think it would look about right weight wise when etched.


----------



## BoxGods

Titan Rig has MMRS up on their Amazon store. New items will be popping up on the page continually over the next day as they enter them. So if you are having trouble finding a part...there you go =)

https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=bnav_search_go?url=me%3DA3GO5VFCNOM5I7&field-keywords=MMRS


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Here is one version of a slightly simplified version. The circles are not spaced correctly for the wrap, (tired of messing with it) but you get the idea.
> 
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that the black portion would actually be a much lighter stainless / silver color and the white would be your fitting color--meaning the design will not have the heaviness it does as presented--looks TOO heavy in the file IMO but I think it would look about right weight wise when etched.


Looks good.... but the Insignia is no longer the insignia. Is okay I think I can get that sorted out pretty quickly. Thanks again Geno.









~Ceadder


----------



## AllGamer

I'm still unpacking, but this kind of got me worried.



Does this yellow stuff washes away?

Has anybody else ordered White tops for MMRS with that yellow stuff on top?


----------



## AllGamer

Seems like all the white parts have that Yellow layer by the holes

is that left over from the drill lubricant or something like that?


----------



## Ceadderman

It is iirc.









Just wash the parts with dish soap and water. Should clean them up nicely.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

It is a lubricant and plastic conditioner mixture that prevent the plastic from chipping and tearing during the tapping operation. Most of it will wash off if it bothers you but it in the threads and covered with the fittings if it doesn't =)

I made sure to have some showing in the product pictures of the white parts so people would not freak out.

It is the same stuff used on the black parts...you see it more on the white obviously.

***EDIT***

I just looked at your first picture full size--the one of the FDP. Somebody obviously got a little carried away with the tapping solution as it should not be on the top edge like that. I will make sure to show the guys on the tapping machine (and the QC ladies).

Sorry about that. It should wash off with warm soapy water, (just use plain old dish soap). Thankfully that area should be under the FDP cap anyway, but if some area shows and it won't wash off PM me and I can arrange to swap it out for you.

Again sorry for that


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> is that left over from the drill lubricant or something like that?[/QUOTE]
> 
> Theirs some kind of lube or oil. It's like that for all the parts I have gotten for MMRS system. It's very simple to remove, I just used the bag it came in to remove it. I also had no yellow tint to mine.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It is a lubricant and plastic conditioner mixture that prevent the plastic from chipping and tearing during the tapping operation. Most of it will wash off if it bothers you but it in the threads and covered with the fittings if it doesn't =)
> 
> I made sure to have some showing in the product pictures of the white parts so people would not freak out.
> 
> It is the same stuff used on the black parts...you see it more on the white obviously.
> 
> ***EDIT***
> 
> I just looked at your first picture full size--the one of the FDP. Somebody obviously got a little carried away with the tapping solution as it should not be on the top edge like that. I will make sure to show the guys on the tapping machine (and the QC ladies).
> 
> Sorry about that. It should wash off with warm soapy water, (just use plain old dish soap). Thankfully that area should be under the FDP cap anyway, but if some area shows and it won't wash off PM me and I can arrange to swap it out for you.
> 
> Again sorry for that


Thank you, I'll let you know if it doesn't come off.

but as you mentioned most of it are hidden under the rod screws and top drain cover, so it should be "OK"


----------



## rathar3

What inverter works with the CCFL lights from monsoon?. I have 2 150 lights from my res but the inverter i have wont work.

any ideas?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> What inverter works with the CCFL lights from monsoon?. I have 2 150 lights from my res but the inverter i have wont work.
> 
> any ideas?


Our aluminum two and four bulb inverters are shipping this week. Depending on ship time, Performance should have them up on their site by Monday or so. Figure Wednesday just to be safe.


----------



## AllGamer

@BoxGods

_*Good News & Bad News*_

The good news is that yellowish lub washed away, most of it, the ones in the little holes are still there, but you can't see them after the screws are on top.

Bad news is that I found some imperfection with a couple of things:

*Problem 1*
Both Top fill port covers had a bad scratch out of the box (bag)

It seems to only affect 1 hole, out of the 4 for some reason, probably a manufacturing bug with the machinery, my guess is either when the drill goes down, or goes back up, and then it scratches the last hole.

 same picture in a different angle 

2nd cover same problem, but less prominent than the first one. 

End Result, you can barely see it 

I just wanted to report this FYI to improve QA for future batches.

*Problem 2*
Now the other problem that DOES annoys me is this LED, the picture is self explanatory.

Not sure If I should complain to PPC or to you, but I definitely need an exchange to make them the same.


AFAIK the one on the right side, is the correct one.
the one on the left side, if I take out the white O-ring it's all transparent clear, except for the rear.
It seems to be a little shorter too, also it leaks light as it's transparent.
Here's another close up pic, installed side by side.



And these next pictures are just for fun, how it looks like all assembled, except for the vertical mount, I'll install that when the case arrives.
Back view, Front view.


----------



## BoxGods

I really like the red and white together.









On the LED plugs...actually, the one on the right is the old / original design that was discontinued at least a year and a half ago in favor of the one piece body. Performance must have one of the old ones sitting in the bottom of the bin in their warehouse. I can look around the shop and see if we have any of the LED plugs here and get back to you.

On the FDP cap--I looked at the parts we have here -- between all the colors that's about 25 parts--and none had the scratches inside the countersink area so hopefully it was an isolated thing. I passed along the info anyway just in case.


----------



## rathar3

Ok Gene thanks


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I really like the red and white together.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On the LED plugs...actually, the one on the right is the old / original design that was discontinued at least a year and a half ago in favor of the one piece body. Performance must have one of the old ones sitting in the bottom of the bin in their warehouse. I can look around the shop and see if we have any of the LED plugs here and get back to you.
> 
> On the FDP cap--I looked at the parts we have here -- between all the colors that's about 25 parts--and none had the scratches inside the countersink area so hopefully it was an isolated thing. I passed along the info anyway just in case.


No problem









I just wanted to figure out which one was the correct one.

Yeah, I do like the Unibody design better, the solid white one piece.

the transparent one comes undone too easily.

I'll open a ticket with PPC, lets see if they'll replace it


----------



## BoxGods

Turned the shop upside down...no joy. I emailed Performance to let them know they need to ship one out so you should be all set.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Turned the shop upside down...no joy. I emailed Performance to let them know they need to ship one out so you should be all set.


Thank you, yes I got the heads up already from PPC


----------



## Deedaz

Here's a preview pic BG sent me. Can't wait to get them in the build!


----------



## BoxGods

And no that is not my hand









My buddies love teasing me that I should have been a "hand" model because my hands have appeared in several magazine articles over the years--PC modding, R/C Modeler, Model Airplane News, etc.--a weird assortment. What makes it funny (or not depending on how you look at it) is that I have beat the crap out of my hands. Lopped the end of my middle finger off on the joiner, severed several tendons with a shard of glass (that went clean thru my hand)...just various "incidents". More than a hundred stitches in my right hand alone (spread out over about 3 decades).


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Here's a preview pic BG sent me. Can't wait to get them in the build!


Your secret have been revealed!
I knew your where hiding your secret identity Green Lantern!
That ring is proof! muahahahahaha!


----------



## rathar3

YAY i found some inverters that will work for now till the new ones come out. Now i can see what my res looks like glowing


----------



## Revan654

According to PPCS next shipment of MonSoon products should take about 4 to 6 weeks to arrive.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> According to PPCS next shipment of MonSoon products should take about 4 to 6 weeks to arrive.


Bleh!!!!


----------



## rathar3

Its Glowing


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> According to PPCS next shipment of MonSoon products should take about 4 to 6 weeks to arrive.


Have you looked here?

https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=bnav_search_go?url=me%3DA3GO5VFCNOM5I7&field-keywords=MMRS

Titan Rig now has the entire MMRS line up in their Amazon store.


----------



## cram501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Have you looked here?
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=bnav_search_go?url=me%3DA3GO5VFCNOM5I7&field-keywords=MMRS
> 
> Titan Rig now has the entire MMRS line up in their Amazon store.


Do they have the pump motor extensions? I can't seem to find them up there.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Have you looked here?
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/s/ref=bnav_search_go?url=me%3DA3GO5VFCNOM5I7&field-keywords=MMRS
> 
> Titan Rig now has the entire MMRS line up in their Amazon store.


I need the extension for pump top and the radiator mount. Which they don't seem to have.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> YAY i found some inverters that will work for now till the new ones come out. Now i can see what my res looks like glowing


Which one did you get to work with MonSoon CCFL? I have the Darkside version and it could barely light up the CCFL.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: Is their any performance difference between Stand alone pump top and the one attached to res? I keep hearing the standalone Pumps tops will always out perform the attached res/pump.


----------



## Remontoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just wanted to share a picture a builder named Henry sent along that shows how people find different ways to use things. The builder is Henry and he has mad photography skills. In the interests of full disclosure he is also having a hard time with a vortex in the short 100mm length. Hopefully adding the Trident part will get that sorted out.
> 
> It took me a minute to even realize what he had done that was different...he used the low profile 12mm Grasshopper mounts, but then also added the 25mm mounts but used them to down light the reservoir. Just looks cool to me...like some sort of fusion engine.


Hi, I was going to get a Monsoon res setup but it seems that in all the pics I've seen that the top and bottom are more like a grey/brown colour like this:



But the picture in your quoted post, they actually look black. So are they actually black like in the image you posted, or was that due to lighting conditions? I would really like to get this res but not if grey/brown colour is all there is. You can see the difference in the pic I uploaded as it is next to actual black.


----------



## Revan654

^ It's matte Black. Theirs no Brown or Grey to them.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ^ It's matte Black. Theirs no Brown or Grey to them.


There's no brown or grey in either of those pics either. Maybe your monitor needs adjusted? They have them in white also.


----------



## rathar3

i got the blue logisys replacement ones from PPCS. they seem to work ok for now


----------



## Remontoire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ^ It's matte Black. Theirs no Brown or Grey to them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> There's no brown or grey in either of those pics either. Maybe your monitor needs adjusted? They have them in white also.


I didn't realise matte black was so light, so far from black. I was expecting powder black. You say there's no gray like anything less than pure black cannot be considered dark grey. The very fine brown tinge must be coming from the soft light when the photo was taken. You can see clearly that the green res has a very fine brownish tinge from the lighting conditions that is not present on the red res.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remontoire*
> 
> I didn't realise matte black was so light, so far from black. I was expecting powder black. You say there's no gray like anything less than pure black cannot be considered dark grey. The very fine brown tinge must be coming from the soft light when the photo was taken. You can see clearly that the green res has a very fine brownish tinge from the lighting conditions that is not present on the red res.


Technically it's Nylon (Material) that causing the black to be a bit lighter, Not by much.

I still see zero brown in the picture, even with the green res. If your seeing other colors, You need to adjust your monitor.

Here is Photo from my build, Everything is Matter Black.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone have ideas for an alternate mounting option? I'm having a bit of a problem. Just noticed that rad mounts Monsoon will be selling will be an issue. The inlet interferes with top of my pedestal. Is their any options out their like the 120mm mounting option EK offers?

I would prefer something that will connect to 120mm fan hole and comes out a bit to place the pump top on it. If I can't find something I'm going have to use a different pump top.

Example(Second Picture):


----------



## caenlen

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> There's no brown or grey in either of those pics either. Maybe your monitor needs adjusted? They have them in white also.






I like your Thor juggling gif, lulz.


----------



## Ceadderman

If you go back no more than 5 pages, you will see that Geno has worked out a solution for mounting the MMRS using fan brackets.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you go back no more than 5 pages, you will see that Geno has worked out a solution for mounting the MMRS using fan brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Already know, Read my post again which states I can't use it.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> If you go back no more than 5 pages, you will see that Geno has worked out a solution for mounting the MMRS using fan brackets.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already know, Read my post again which states I can't use it.
Click to expand...

Sell your current mount and get grasshopper mounts. Problem solved. MMRS top is comparable to the EK XTop.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

@BoxGods, do you have an eta on those lantern fittings by chance?









wow, i broke my sig links and can't get them back


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> @BoxGods, do you have an eta on those lantern fittings by chance?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow, i broke my sig links and can't get them back


They are in route so you should have them any time now--sorry for no tracking number but we don't usually get one until the shipment hits a US location and by the time it shows up the package has arrived.

It took a little longer to etch your design because we kept getting a weird pattern in the solid areas because the software just could not seem to plot a tool path and we couldn't figure out why. Finally figured out that you had pasted an image into the .ai file so there were not any true vrector paths. Got is sorted out tho so no worries.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> @BoxGods, do you have an eta on those lantern fittings by chance?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wow, i broke my sig links and can't get them back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They are in route so you should have them any time now--sorry for no tracking number but we don't usually get one until the shipment hits a US location and by the time it shows up the package has arrived.
> 
> It took a little longer to etch your design because we kept getting a weird pattern in the solid areas because the software just could not seem to plot a tool path and we couldn't figure out why. Finally figured out that you had pasted an image into the .ai file so there were not any true vrector paths. Got is sorted out tho so no worries.
Click to expand...

Oops, didn't realize that would cause an issue...sorry for any headaches that caused you guys!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone have ideas for an alternate mounting option? I'm having a bit of a problem. Just noticed that rad mounts Monsoon will be selling will be an issue. The inlet interferes with top of my pedestal. Is their any options out their like the 120mm mounting option EK offers?
> 
> I would prefer something that will connect to 120mm fan hole and comes out a bit to place the pump top on it. If I can't find something I'm going have to use a different pump top.
> 
> Example(Second Picture):


Something like this?



Each of the four corners get the 12mm tall stand-off's (like the ones used in the rad mount kit) and on the end of the flange you can use either the standard 12mm, 25mm, or 50mm mount.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Oops, didn't realize that would cause an issue...sorry for any headaches that caused you guys!


Nah no problem as it is all part of the learning curve as I am positive you will not be the last person to do that =)


----------



## BoxGods

In case that screen grab of the pump-fan-mount was not 100% clear--here it is with the pump installed:


----------



## BoxGods

And here is the vertical version:


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caenlen*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> There's no brown or grey in either of those pics either. Maybe your monitor needs adjusted? They have them in white also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like your Thor juggling gif, lulz.
Click to expand...

Haha, thanks. I thought it was a good representation of me when doing a build, lol.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> In case that screen grab of the pump-fan-mount was not 100% clear--here it is with the pump installed:


Any ETA when it will be available?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any ETA when it will be available?


Nowhere near as fast as you want it unfortunately.









About 3 weeks before it can be in stock at a reseller. Will go as quick as we can.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Nowhere near as fast as you want it unfortunately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About 3 weeks before it can be in stock at a reseller. Will go as quick as we can.


My last part from CaseLabs is about 3 weeks away. If everything goes goes according to plan it should arrive at PPCS around the same time as CaseLabs ships it out.

Do you know if those extensions rings will arrive around the same time?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> My last part from CaseLabs is about 3 weeks away. If everything goes goes according to plan it should arrive at PPCS around the same time as CaseLabs ships it out.
> 
> Do you know if those extensions rings will arrive around the same time?


The extension rings should be there long before that...as in pretty soon now.


----------



## BoxGods

Inverters have shipped (FINALLY) so Performance, OCUK, and Titan Rig should have them up in the next week--depending on transit time.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> My last part from CaseLabs is about 3 weeks away. If everything goes goes according to plan it should arrive at PPCS around the same time as CaseLabs ships it out.
> 
> Do you know if those extensions rings will arrive around the same time?
> 
> 
> 
> The extension rings should be there long before that...as in pretty soon now.
Click to expand...

What's the official OD of those rings Geno?

I need to know so I can tool my acrylic MB tray for them.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The extension rings should be there long before that...as in pretty soon now.


My luck as soon as I place my next order with PPCS it will show up the next day.


----------



## thetherington

Can you give us a peak on what they look like and support? Dimensions?


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Inverters have shipped (FINALLY) so Performance, OCUK, and Titan Rig should have them up in the next week--depending on transit time.


Can you give us a peak on what they look like and support? Dimensions?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Can you give us a peak on what they look like and support? Dimensions?


Which part are you referring to?

The reservoir mount, or the D5 pump ring extension?

either case just scroll back a few pages, you'll see the pictures


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Which part are you referring to?
> 
> The reservoir mount, or the D5 pump ring extension?
> 
> either case just scroll back a few pages, you'll see the pictures


Sorry i was referring to the CCFL Inverters. my bad


----------



## Deedaz

Look what showed up today! Looks like its time for the tear down, cleaning, and rebuilding












edit: sorry for the blurry pics, i fail lol


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Can you give us a peak on what they look like and support? Dimensions?


Available in 2 and 4 bulb versions. Aluminum case. Black finish. Clean and simple. Designed to fade into the background.

Looks like they arrived at Performance TODAY so they should have them up on the site shortly =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Look what showed up today! Looks like its time for the tear down, cleaning, and rebuilding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: sorry for the blurry pics, i fail lol


I love the fittings of course...but I couldn't help noticing a WHITE reservoir with the vertical mount--first time I have seen one =)

Pictures look great to me btw. So do you like them?

By the way--you are the first person on the planet to get EV2 Customs. It is not like you just took delivery of the first Tesla Model 3 or anything...but still a little cool =)

.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Look what showed up today! Looks like its time for the tear down, cleaning, and rebuilding
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit: sorry for the blurry pics, i fail lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love the fittings of course...but I couldn't help noticing a WHITE reservoir with the vertical mount--first time I have seen one =)
> 
> Pictures look great to me btw. So do you like them?
> 
> By the way--you are the first person on the planet to get EV2 Customs. It is not like you just took delivery of the first Tesla Model 3 or anything...but still a little cool =)
> 
> .
Click to expand...

They turned out better than i thought! Ive already got my rig half torn down im so excited lol


----------



## Radnad

Just gonna repeat what I said in your log:

Oh wow... OH WOW!! Those look better than I could have imagined!

It's settled, I'm swapping my Barr, err, I mean current fittings for these bad boys!

I do think it's a little unfair to be able to submit up to 5 designs for the contest just to be a little self centered here, haha. Some of us are right brained and coming up with a decent single design is hard enough!


----------



## Deedaz

Sneak peek!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Just gonna repeat what I said in your log:
> 
> Oh wow... OH WOW!! Those look better than I could have imagined!
> 
> It's settled, I'm swapping my Barr, err, I mean current fittings for these bad boys!
> 
> I do think it's a little unfair to be able to submit up to 5 designs for the contest just to be a little self centered here, haha. Some of us are right brained and coming up with a decent single design is hard enough!


You're not confusing quality with quantity are you?

And a person can only be selected one time









Also, a good design presented badly is not really a good design in my book. IMO might be better to take the time to present nice clean artwork for one or two designs than slap together 5 in a hurry. Also, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS on the template download! You can look at the submissions and fairly easily tell who did and didn't read the suggestions and instructions portion. Really complicated designs with lots and lots of little thin lines all jumbled together. Think of the entirety of your build as the creation--like a story or a painting, and the etching on your fittings as one of the little details that contribute to the whole--don't try to jam the whole thing onto a (relatively) little fitting.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> 
> 
> Sneak peek!


Crap...looking at that...now I have to wonder if we should offer etching on the colored accent disks.









Kind of a small space so probably not...but looking at your awesome sneak peek...looks pretty cool.

I HAVE been tinkering with offering the motor mounting tube covers etched as that is a nice 50mm diameter circle of space that we could REALLY go to town with.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> 
> 
> Sneak peek!


I also wanted to ask--did you have any trouble figuring out the sizing gauge or which parts bag to use etc.? I worry that in my pursuit of the best possible fit for every individual build and a killer grip on the tube...I might have made it a little too complicated for some builders.


----------



## BoxGods

Inverters are up at PPCS.

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-two-bulb.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-four-bulb.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-switch-cable.html

Sorry again for the delay guys...on the plus sid Performance says "they work great" =)


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Inverters are up at PPCS.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-two-bulb.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-four-bulb.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-switch-cable.html
> 
> Sorry again for the delay guys...on the plus sid Performance says "they work great" =)


hey those look like pefect candidates to be etched too! you should just laser etch everything Boxgods, haha!


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Inverters are up at PPCS.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-two-bulb.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-four-bulb.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-switch-cable.html
> 
> Sorry again for the delay guys...on the plus sid Performance says "they work great" =)


Ordered..

I also got a MMRS 100mm D5 black chrome kit and matching Black UV CCFL lights


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Inverters are up at PPCS.
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-two-bulb.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-four-bulb.html
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-ccfl-inverter-switch-cable.html
> 
> Sorry again for the delay guys...on the plus sid Performance says "they work great" =)


I might order one, I'm still a bit cautious when it comes to CCFL. Plus all those horror stories don't exactly help.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to need a second PSU just to power all my molex connections.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> 
> 
> Sneak peek!
> 
> 
> 
> I also wanted to ask--did you have any trouble figuring out the sizing gauge or which parts bag to use etc.? I worry that in my pursuit of the best possible fit for every individual build and a killer grip on the tube...I might have made it a little too complicated for some builders.
Click to expand...

After watching your video it wasn't a problem. I would not have thought to put the tube in and slide it down until it touches. So maybe add a lil arrow/pic to the size Guage to clear it up.
I was iffy on yellow or green bag, it was close but the green ferule wouldn't slide over the tube so that solved itself.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> After watching your video it wasn't a problem. I would not have thought to put the tube in and slide it down until it touches. So maybe add a lil arrow/pic to the size Guage to clear it up.
> I was iffy on yellow or green bag, it was close but the green ferule wouldn't slide over the tube so that solved itself.


Thanks for the feedback


----------



## ruffhi

I've finally turned my EV2 theme into a vector file. Does PPCs confirm that the file is 'good to go' ... or is that something that you (BoxGods) do?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've finally turned my EV2 theme into a vector file. Does PPCs confirm that the file is 'good to go' ... or is that something that you (BoxGods) do?


Me =)


----------



## Deedaz

All finished! Lots more pics in the log


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've finally turned my EV2 theme into a vector file. Does PPCs confirm that the file is 'good to go' ... or is that something that you (BoxGods) do?
> 
> 
> 
> Me =)
Click to expand...

PM with attachment sent. Hope it gets there.


----------



## 2WolfDesigns

I know this my sound odd, but is it possible to remove the CFL light from the cap for the tube? The reason I am asking is I am wanting to use NEO-Pixels RGB-W LED's and put them into the tube instead and then into a reservoir.

Reason for this is with Neo-pixels RGB LEDs each one is individually programed via arduino. I am figuring I can take a 144 per meter strip and cut it down to 33-36 and put it inside, then run a program to change the colors as I want or in a pattern.

But to dot his I would need to remove the CFL ligth or beable to get empty tubes and caps.


----------



## TOOLP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2WolfDesigns*
> 
> I know this my sound odd, but is it possible to remove the CFL light from the cap for the tube? The reason I am asking is I am wanting to use NEO-Pixels RGB-W LED's and put them into the tube instead and then into a reservoir.
> 
> Reason for this is with Neo-pixels RGB LEDs each one is individually programed via arduino. I am figuring I can take a 144 per meter strip and cut it down to 33-36 and put it inside, then run a program to change the colors as I want or in a pattern.
> 
> But to dot his I would need to remove the CFL ligth or beable to get empty tubes and caps.


Nice Idea but i think, the led strip will be too large to fit into the Tube of the ccfl.


----------



## 2WolfDesigns

According to Adafruit they are 15mm wide with the protective sleeve without it should be 12 -13mm wide. I can get smaller mini single LED as well which are only 3.5mm x 3.5mm. The regular singles are 5mm x 5mm.

I was hoping the strip would work as that would be the easiest to using wiring wise. I would end up having to use less in the tube if I had to use singles due to having to attach wire to each one and jumper them to each other.

I do have another idea, but this would be the easiest way to do what I want to do.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2WolfDesigns*
> 
> According to Adafruit they are 15mm wide with the protective sleeve without it should be 12 -13mm wide. I can get smaller mini single LED as well which are only 3.5mm x 3.5mm. The regular singles are 5mm x 5mm.
> 
> I was hoping the strip would work as that would be the easiest to using wiring wise. I would end up having to use less in the tube if I had to use singles due to having to attach wire to each one and jumper them to each other.
> 
> I do have another idea, but this would be the easiest way to do what I want to do.


I think someone else tried it but the tube was just barely too small. Maybe just order one of the plugs and try? They're only like $6 so it would be a relatively cheap test, see if titan rig has those on amazon yet, probably cheaper than ppcs shipping.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> All finished! Lots more pics in the log


AMAZING work man...truly top shelf.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2WolfDesigns*
> 
> I know this my sound odd, but is it possible to remove the CFL light from the cap for the tube? The reason I am asking is I am wanting to use NEO-Pixels RGB-W LED's and put them into the tube instead and then into a reservoir.
> 
> Reason for this is with Neo-pixels RGB LEDs each one is individually programed via arduino. I am figuring I can take a 144 per meter strip and cut it down to 33-36 and put it inside, then run a program to change the colors as I want or in a pattern.
> 
> But to dot his I would need to remove the CFL ligth or beable to get empty tubes and caps.


Ues the CCFL bulbs can easily be removed--just unscrew the metal cap and they slide right out. We make them removable so that you can replace a bulb if it burns out without having to drain your loop.

The inside diameter of the tube is 5mm if that helps.


----------



## ruffhi

Here is my final entry in the great EV2 give-a-way of 2016. This one has the hexes truncated on bottom and wrapping around the fitting.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Here is my final entry in the great EV2 give-a-way of 2016. This one has the hexes truncated on bottom and wrapping around the fitting.


I think the colors need reversed, the black is what gets etched.


----------



## ruffhi

don't worry about that ... this is how it will look once etched. My vector file has the colors around the other way


----------



## BoxGods

There is just something about a hex pattern isn't there? Humans are fascinated by them.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> There is just something about a hex pattern isn't there? Humans are fascinated by them.


Because they look ? like diamonds ?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> There is just something about a hex pattern isn't there? Humans are fascinated by them.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Because they look ? like diamonds ?


to me me Hex = honeycombs = sweet = food = yummy


----------



## Revan654

^ My Second res, However the tube is all scratched up. It's going to need to be replaced.


----------



## Ceadderman

Decided to ditch the lines and add lightsabers, as well as topping the horizontal blades with "Welcome to the Darkside" split between the Imperial insignias.









Now I just have to tidy the vector.









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> My latest little creation! Going in my sig rig, should fit the theme well I think. Got Monsoon blue plugs on the way for the top and valve plug.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Couldn't get the DCP to work right in the loop and ended up with a Syscooling P67A pump, similar to an EK SPC60. I still think it looks good and the loop is finally back together again and working thank goodness.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ My Second res, However the tube is all scratched up. It's going to need to be replaced.


How well was it packed for shipping?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Decided to ditch the lines and add lightsabers, as well as topping the horizontal blades with "Welcome to the Darkside" split between the Imperial insignias.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just have to tidy the vector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Sounds like a lot of stuff for a fitting sized etch =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Couldn't get the DCP to work right in the loop and ended up with a Syscooling P67A pump, similar to an EK SPC60. I still think it looks good and the loop is finally back together again and working thank goodness.


Yeah...has a nice steampunk "ish" vibe


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Decided to ditch the lines and add lightsabers, as well as topping the horizontal blades with "Welcome to the Darkside" split between the Imperial insignias.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just have to tidy the vector.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like a lot of stuff for a fitting sized etch =)
Click to expand...

Yup. 2 short blades one dual.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Was tinkering around with some etch designs.

This is the Ghost Squadron Emblem used in Koenigsegg Mega Cars.



A Celtic Butterfly on BRASS



The same Celtic Butterfly on STAINLESS



Skull on BRASS



Same Skull on STAINLESS



Zebra skin on STAINLESS


----------



## ruffhi

BG ... can you show us the 'wrap' location with the zebra etch?


----------



## AllGamer

Zebra looks really nice, and the Ghost one








perfect for this Halloween season


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> BG ... can you show us the 'wrap' location with the zebra etch?


I actually used a zebra print "tile" and just tiled it about 5 times. Still teaching myself Adobe Illustrator so I didn't get the tiles lined up exactly all the way across. I will get the hang of it.

This is the adjusted file. If you look closely you can see how it is a "tile" that is repeated multiple times.


----------



## ruffhi

Sure ... I can see that (5 x tiles) ... the join I am particularly interested in is the right side to the left side on the fitting ... if the fitting is 62.79mm circumference ... or, worse still ... 62.81mm then the part where they met will be 'wonky'.

But ... if you can't see that on the fitting ... then great! A wrap option is good-to-go.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Sure ... I can see that (5 x tiles) ... the join I am particularly interested in is the right side to the left side on the fitting ... if the fitting is 62.79mm circumference ... or, worse still ... 62.81mm then the part where they met will be 'wonky'.
> 
> But ... if you can't see that on the fitting ... then great! A wrap option is good-to-go.


The seam will almost never be perfect so if you are worried about it might be better to either plan your seam so it is not an issue, or forgo a wrapped design.


----------



## ruffhi

Ok ... here is my final offering. There is one tiny little bit of wrap. If it doesn't turn out, I can live with it. I swapped from a solid hex to an implied hex at the wrap zone







.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Ok ... here is my final offering. There is one tiny little bit of wrap. If it doesn't turn out, I can live with it. I swapped from a solid hex to an implied hex at the wrap zone
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Hex in the negative space = clever


----------



## geox19

so I see a bunch of threads around the forum about not mixing metals you know only nickle cooper and blah blah blah. No silver and Aluminum. I use the monsoon premium hardline fittings which If i remember correctly are made of silver or have a silver coating on the base and the bay reservoirs use silver plugs? I see that the EV2 fittings are made from stainless there's another metal right ?







? Also my D5 pumps have aluminum where the water inlet is correct? I guess if your not using Corrosion inhibitors now a days you should expect corrosion. Will be very interesting to see whats going on in my loops in a few more months.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> so I see a bunch of threads around the forum about not mixing metals you know only nickle cooper and blah blah blah. No silver and Aluminum. I use the monsoon premium hardline fittings which If i remember correctly are made of silver or have a silver coating on the base and the bay reservoirs use silver plugs? I see that the EV2 fittings are made from stainless there's another metal right ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? Also my D5 pumps have aluminum where the water inlet is correct? I guess if your not using Corrosion inhibitors now a days you should expect corrosion. Will be very interesting to see whats going on in my loops in a few more months.


No. Stainless is not an issue. And there is no aluminum *in* a d5 that I know of


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No. Stainless is not an issue. And there is no aluminum *in* a d5 that I know of


this is the part of the pump I'm referring to. Seems like Aluminum.


----------



## Mega Man

pretty sure that is stainless steel


----------



## geox19

Sure scratches easy for stainless. I'd take a grinder to it to see what kind of spark it throws out but it's a new Aquacomputer pump with aquabus


----------



## Ceadderman

looks like my LOWRA and that is Steel.









~Ceadder


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pretty sure that is stainless steel


https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-vario-laing-d5-vario
Technical specifications:
- Motor: Electronically commuted spherical motor
- Rated voltage: 12V DC
- Power consumption: 23W
- Permitted voltage range: 8-24V DC
- Maximum pressure head: up to 3.9m
- Maximum flow: up to 1500L/h
- Maximum liquid temperature: 60°C
- Materials: Stainless steel, PPS-GF40, EPDM O-rings, Aluminium oxide, hard coal
- Power connector: 4-Pin Molex- and 3-Pin FAN connector

I wonder where the Aluminum oxide is?


----------



## Mega Man

this has been brought up to death
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> The Aluminium is in contact with the water. It forms the bearing that the impeller sits on. Its just that it is in the form of an ultra hard ceramic that does not have any of the properties that straight aluminium metal has that can cause corrosion.
> 
> All the major manufacturers recommend using some for of anti corrosion agent. A silver coil might kill biological contaminants but it does nothing for corrosion protection.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakusonfire*
> 
> Yes of course. Its actually an Alumina oxide ceramic I think, not like the metal Aluminium at all.



Source



let me know if you need more


----------



## geox19

lol Sorry I brought it up again forum police ?


----------



## Mega Man

who was forum police, i brought up the fact that it has been brought up, and did not even mention a quick search of about 5 minutes found everything.

i also see that you are far from partial, and as most who push anti corrosion-try to push "mixed metals" as a scare tactic

but as with most people who do this, they do not do significant research into it. to know what is wrong. what is what, and what the dos and do nots are and more importantly the whys

this is not a personal attack, but a response to yours. people need to realize that although automotive coolants were used in the infancy of this hobby, distilled water and biocide ( of some form ) , from my experience and research, is by far the *most used, and most recommended coolant* this is not because it causes issues but because it has a proven track record, that is not only long. but very solid and clear. sure you have minor freak accidents/situations. but for the most part. the record is intact and continuous

there is nothing wrong with a coolant with anti-corrosives and anti scale in them, but they are not needed- and will continue to be less and less needed, as the technology grows and matures, even more then it has the last 10 year,


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> who was forum police, i brought up the fact that it has been brought up, and did not even mention a quick search of about 5 minutes found everything.
> 
> i also see that you are far from partial, and as most who push anti corrosion-try to push "mixed metals" as a scare tactic
> 
> but as with most people who do this, they do not do significant research into it. to know what is wrong. what is what, and what the dos and do nots are and more importantly the whys
> 
> this is not a personal attack, but a response to yours. people need to realize that although automotive coolants were used in the infancy of this hobby, distilled water and biocide ( of some form ) , from my experience and research, is by far the *most used, and most recommended coolant* this is not because it causes issues but because it has a proven track record, that is not only long. but very solid and clear. sure you have minor freak accidents/situations. but for the most part. the record is intact and continuous
> 
> there is nothing wrong with a coolant with anti-corrosives and anti scale in them, but they are not needed- and will continue to be less and less needed, as the technology grows and matures, even more then it has the last 10 year,


I don't really care if I or anyone else uses anti corrosion or not. I posted to this thread to ask a few questions about the monsoon fittings and if anyone knew if that was aluminum on the d5 pump. I use the mayhems stuff because I like the color if my blocks get eaten up from using mayhems or just using distilled water I'll just buy more no big deal stuff happens. If me asking a few questions or not searching first bothers you so much just don't read what I have to say and move on. Either way thanks for your time and info. Maybe you'll be at 20k post in a month if you keep answering things that upset you


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> I don't really care if I or anyone else uses anti-corrosion or not. I posted to this thread to ask a few questions about the monsoon fittings and if anyone knew if that was aluminum on the d5 pump. I use the mayhems stuff because I like the color if my blocks get eaten up from using mayhems or just using distilled water I'll just buy more no big deal stuff happens. If me asking a few questions or not searching first bothers you so much just don't read what I have to say and move on. Either way thanks for your time and info. Maybe you'll be at 20k post in a month if you keep answering things that upset you


Everyone relax (which NEVER relaxes anyone). First and most important point. Mayhems is a very responsible company and asked us for engineering samples of our fittings to use for compatibility testing with their fluid products, which we were happy to send. They conducted extensive testing and found our fittings and their fluids get along just great.

The galvanic corrosion "issue" has been blown so far out of proportion because of the previously mentioned "fear monger" posts. Somebody will trot out the nobility chart (without the other data and comments that go with it) and the big flame fights start. That chart was developed by the US Coast Guard for metals in a marine environment (aka salt water) and is for ships and oil rigs that are designed to last 30 to 50 years. Unless you plan on running salt water in your loops and are expecting your rig to last 30 years...

The reason you got a slightly frosty reception to your post is that most of the "old timers" in here have gotten a little tired of the fake controversy. A lot of it is pushed as marketing hype for $12 a liter cooling fluids that are usually 99% distilled water anyway.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Everyone relax (which NEVER relaxes anyone). First and most important point. Mayhems is a very responsible company and asked us for engineering samples of our fittings to use for compatibility testing with their fluid products, which we were happy to send. They conducted extensive testing and found our fittings and their fluids get along just great.
> 
> The galvanic corrosion "issue" has been blown so far out of proportion because of the previously mentioned "fear monger" posts. Somebody will trot out the nobility chart (without the other data and comments that go with it) and the big flame fights start. That chart was developed by the US Coast Guard for metals in a marine environment (aka salt water) and is for ships and oil rigs that are designed to last 30 to 50 years. Unless you plan on running salt water in your loops and are expecting your rig to last 30 years...
> 
> The reason you got a slightly frosty reception to your post is that most of the "old timers" in here have gotten a little tired of the fake controversy. A lot of it is pushed as marketing hype for $12 a liter cooling fluids that are usually 99% distilled water anyway.


I hear you but the thing is I didn't even bring up Mayhems fluids or anything about the nobility chart in my OP nor do I care what others use in there system nor am I trying to promote anything that has to do with water cooling. I just had a few questions about your fittings and bay res since I use around 40 somethings fittings and three bay reservoirs just trying to figure out all the metals in just one of my builds. So I can make my own choice in what I want to do or not do. Sorry if me asking simple questions somehow makes fake controversy or somehow looks like a scare tactic. Just a customer with a few questions.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> so I see a bunch of threads around the forum about not mixing metals you know only nickle cooper and blah blah blah. No silver and Aluminum. I use the monsoon premium hardline fittings which If i remember correctly are made of silver or have a silver coating on the base and the bay reservoirs use silver plugs? I see that the EV2 fittings are made from stainless there's another metal right ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? Also my D5 pumps have aluminum where the water inlet is correct? I guess if your not using Corrosion inhibitors now a days you should expect corrosion. Will be very interesting to see whats going on in my loops in a few more months.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> so I see a bunch of threads around the forum about not mixing metals you know only nickle cooper and blah blah blah. No silver and Aluminum. I use the monsoon premium hardline fittings which If i remember correctly are made of silver or have a silver coating on the base and the bay reservoirs use silver plugs? I see that the EV2 fittings are made from stainless there's another metal right ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? Also my D5 pumps have aluminum where the water inlet is correct? I guess if your not using Corrosion inhibitors now a days you should expect corrosion. Will be very interesting to see whats going on in my loops in a few more months.
> 
> 
> 
> No. Stainless is not an issue. And there is no aluminum *in* a d5 that I know of
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No. Stainless is not an issue. And there is no aluminum *in* a d5 that I know of
> 
> 
> 
> this is the part of the pump I'm referring to. Seems like Aluminum.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> pretty sure that is stainless steel


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Sure scratches easy for stainless. I'd take a grinder to it to see what kind of spark it throws out but it's a new Aquacomputer pump with aquabus


Above are your quotes for ref I answered all you questions, sometimes multiple times

With that in mind I noticed one thing I forgot to address. The ev2 fittings are not stainless afaik the base is either brass or silver coated brass and the colar is stainless. I am pulling this from memory and I don't have time to check it tonight, sorry.


----------



## geox19

Originally Posted by geox19 View Post

so I see a bunch of threads around the forum about not mixing metals you know only nickle cooper and blah blah blah. No silver and Aluminum. *I use the monsoon premium hardline fittings which If i remember correctly are made of silver or have a silver coating on the base and the bay reservoirs use silver plugs?* I see that the EV2 fittings are made from stainless there's another metal right ? smile.gif ? Also my D5 pumps have aluminum where the water inlet is correct? I guess if your not using Corrosion inhibitors now a days you should expect corrosion. Will be very interesting to see whats going on in my loops in a few more months

You answered some of my questions and when doing so made a fuss about it. You totally just skipped to answering the questions about pump and stainless steel ev2 fittings then went on to get annoyed because I didn't use the search box first. Now your going on about saying you answered all my questions multiple times and what not. Do you actually read before you respond to people or just get upset and start responding.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Everyone relax (which NEVER relaxes anyone). First and most important point. Mayhems is a very responsible company and asked us for engineering samples of our fittings to use for compatibility testing with their fluid products, which we were happy to send. They conducted extensive testing and found our fittings and their fluids get along just great.
> 
> The galvanic corrosion "issue" has been blown so far out of proportion because of the previously mentioned "fear monger" posts. Somebody will trot out the nobility chart (without the other data and comments that go with it) and the big flame fights start. That chart was developed by the US Coast Guard for metals in a marine environment (aka salt water) and is for ships and oil rigs that are designed to last 30 to 50 years. Unless you plan on running salt water in your loops and are expecting your rig to last 30 years...
> 
> The reason you got a slightly frosty reception to your post is that most of the "old timers" in here have gotten a little tired of the fake controversy. A lot of it is pushed as marketing hype for $12 a liter cooling fluids that are usually 99% distilled water anyway.


I ran your fittings with some nickel blocks and one of them went weird but... I think that was algae growth that baked on to the block, the nickel is still firmly in place.

While I'm here, I have the monsoon 3 axis ruler but I don't have the mandrels, is there some kind of amount I should add or subtract to my measurements to make sure my tubing ends up in the fittings correctly? I know you'll say my bends won't be 100% perfectly true which I get but I've free handed 2 builds now and they've been decent, just struggled to get the mandrels is all.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benjiw*
> 
> I ran your fittings with some nickel blocks and one of them went weird but... I think that was algae growth that baked on to the block, the nickel is still firmly in place.
> 
> While I'm here, I have the monsoon 3 axis ruler but I don't have the mandrels, is there some kind of amount I should add or subtract to my measurements to make sure my tubing ends up in the fittings correctly? I know you'll say my bends won't be 100% perfectly true which I get but I've free handed 2 builds now and they've been decent, just struggled to get the mandrels is all.


The fitting bases or plugs use antimicrobial silver over brass. The silver areas that contact a block, (the outside IOW) are coated with an electrically nonconductive UV cured marine grade epoxy. They will not form a dielectric connection with your block. They wouldn't be a problem even without the epoxy coating so think of it as added insurance.

To determine the extra tube length needed for the portion that goes into the fitting, push a tube into the fitting, apply a little tape where the tube exits the fitting, then measuer from the end of the tube to the tape. That number is what you add.

I have several how-to videos on using the measuring tool, mandrels, etc. on our channel here:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UChL1NI3fGMdBK8oV9M9cc3Q


----------



## Ceadderman

"The fitting bases or plugs use antimicrobial silver over brass. The silver areas that contact a block, (the outside IOW) are coated with an electrically nonconductive UV cured marine grade epoxy. They will not form a dielectric connection with your block. They wouldn't be a problem even without the epoxy coating so think of it as added insurance."

That takes a load off my mind. I recently got a .999 silver coil that I will never use because I don't wish to introduce a corrosive influence into my loop. Assuming that, so long as there is no direct contact there shouldn't be an issue.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> "The fitting bases or plugs use antimicrobial silver over brass. The silver areas that contact a block, (the outside IOW) are coated with an electrically nonconductive UV cured marine grade epoxy. They will not form a dielectric connection with your block. They wouldn't be a problem even without the epoxy coating so think of it as added insurance."
> 
> That takes a load off my mind. I recently got a .999 silver coil that I will never use because I don't wish to introduce a corrosive influence into my loop. Assuming that, so long as there is no direct contact there shouldn't be an issue.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have been using silver in my loops since 1999 as have a LOT of water cooling guys. As in tens of thousands. I have never had a corrosion problem on any rig I have built--and that is likely well north of 100 by now. I know guys that have used gold plated blocks--a lot of the manufacturers trying to scare people about silver have had special edition gold plated blocks in fact--and gold is even higher on the nobility scale. If silver is a problem where are all the horrifying pictures online in forum posts of rotted out blocks and radiators? You know how vicious the online community can be about this kind of thing. You would think there would be a ton of pictures, but they are more rare than bigfoot pictures. You can find some pictures of rotted out knock off Chinese aluminum radiators, but nobody has really used those in years.

Again, the nobility chart is based on a SALTWATER environment and is intended for a time scale measured in decades. Saltwater is highly conductive electrically. Distilled or Deionized water is not.


----------



## BoxGods

On a weird side note.

Living in South Texas you have to be careful of sunburn and a fairly common "treatment" for it here is Witch Hazel. If you have ever tried it you know how cold it makes your skin feel, so on a whim, I once filled a loop with it. Cooling performance was not improved but I left that loop sealed for almost 10 YEARS as the machine was in a closet being used as a file server. When I finally replaced the file server I opened up the loop to see how much crud had grown in the loop and it was flat out pristine. Zero algae growth.

Obviously, I am not promoting you leave your loop sealed that long--you should flush it at least once a year and twice is better, and I am not promoting witch hazel as a cooling fluid. Just passing along an interesting anecdote. Kind of like the guys who tried peanut butter and different toothpaste's as thermal compounds =)


----------



## AllGamer

so, we can use Witch Hazel as a sealant for leaky loops







LOL








and it has the built-in secondary effect of being a good "_Biocide_"


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> so, we can use Witch Hazel as a sealant for leaky loops
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LOL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it has the built-in secondary effect of being a good "_Biocide_"


Not leaky...but nothing grew in the loop


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not leaky...but nothing grew in the loop


Hello BoxGods, I just send you a PM but i'll post it here as well in case you didn't get the message yet...

I was told to contact you regarding the monsoon fitting.

I have some fitting that has been running for about little under a year (since Feb 2015) under distilled water with biocide protector and such...

When I did the yearly clean up + flush, I noticed the fitting got rust on them? Defect? I'll add some pictures for you to further analyze this.







I hope you can clear things up with me on this... I love your product!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Hello BoxGods, I just send you a PM but i'll post it here as well in case you didn't get the message yet...
> 
> I was told to contact you regarding the monsoon fitting.
> 
> I have some fitting that has been running for about little under a year (since Feb 2015) under distilled water with biocide protector and such...
> 
> When I did the yearly clean up + flush, I noticed the fitting got rust on them? Defect? I'll add some pictures for you to further analyze this.
> 
> I hope you can clear things up with me on this... I love your product!


I answered your PM.

Honestly...no idea what that is as it is a little hard to see in the pictures. W/e it is looks like it is on the compression rings als and those don't get wet...so no idea.

Either way, I am happy to swap them out for you ASAP, and will pay for shipping 3 or 4 of them back so I can see them first hand. Please check your PM for details.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I answered your PM.
> 
> Honestly...no idea what that is as it is a little hard to see in the pictures. W/e it is looks like it is on the compression rings als and those don't get wet...so no idea.
> 
> Either way, I am happy to swap them out for you ASAP, and will pay for shipping 3 or 4 of them back so I can see them first hand. Please check your PM for details.


Wow, that's some fast reply.







Yep got your PM and thanks again for quick reply.


----------



## rathar3

hey Gene i got a question for you. i have a 100+50 res with a coupler and a d5 pump mount on the end. My question is i bought 2 150mm lights but they dont go all the way into the 50mm res they stop at the coupler so 50mm is not lit. Would the 200 work or would they be to long 

added a photo not sure if it will help

thanks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> hey Gene i got a question for you. i have a 100+50 res with a coupler and a d5 pump mount on the end. My question is i bought 2 150mm lights but they dont go all the way into the 50mm res they stop at the coupler so 50mm is not lit. Would the 200 work or would they be to long
> 
> added a photo not sure if it will help
> 
> thanks


Not at my desk so I don't have the solid models handy, but if you can get a tape measure or ruler in there, measure from the outside end of the end cap to just short of the anti-vortex trident on the TRP and see what the distance is.

Here is a dimension chart of the CCFL plugs--dimensions are from the bottom of the plug to the end of the CCFL tube.


----------



## Ceadderman

@Lionheart1980 @BoxGods

I just saw those pics and it looks like the plating has worn away in the tubes. That's not rust, it's bare brass showing in the places where the plating has worn away. I couldn't say what caused that but it's what it looks like to me.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Lionheart1980 @BoxGods
> 
> I just saw those pics and it looks like the plating has worn away in the tubes. That's not rust, it's bare brass showing in the places where the plating has worn away. I couldn't say what caused that but it's what it looks like to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yea, it seems like it. I didn't want to fiddle around with it like doing any abrasive cleaning or CRL or anything like that. That's why I contacted BoxGod about this.. it's been handled atm.. I'm glad I bought those Monsoon fitting... their support is suburb.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Lionheart1980 @BoxGods
> 
> I just saw those pics and it looks like the plating has worn away in the tubes. That's not rust, it's bare brass showing in the places where the plating has worn away. I couldn't say what caused that but it's what it looks like to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, it seems like it. I didn't want to fiddle around with it like doing any abrasive cleaning or CRL or anything like that. That's why I contacted BoxGod about this.. it's been handled atm.. I'm glad I bought those Monsoon fitting... their support is suburb.
Click to expand...

For sure. Any problems I have had since moving to Monsoon, have been handled fairly and without question. Only have had a moderate amount of things spring up. Geno and Co. have knocked them out of the park moonshot style.









~Ceadder


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> For sure. Any problems I have had since moving to Monsoon, have been handled fairly and without question. Only have had a moderate amount of things spring up. Geno and Co. have knocked them out of the park moonshot style.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder










Yep, same here since I switched to Monsoon, it been great 4 years and counting.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> @Lionheart1980 @BoxGods
> 
> I just saw those pics and it looks like the plating has worn away in the tubes. That's not rust, it's bare brass showing in the places where the plating has worn away. I couldn't say what caused that but it's what it looks like to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


My feeling is it is the bare brass also as the antimicrobial silver is sacrificial. It is designed to dislove away very slowly over time (that is what prevents algae growth) but it should not have happened in less than a year, so the silver plate could have been a bit thin. That or he had one HELL of a pump =)


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question with everything attached including the stand & D5 cover, How tall are 50mm & 100mm res?


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quick Question with everything attached including the stand & D5 cover, How tall are 50mm & 100mm res?


which top?

depending on the top chosen the height can vary slightly as well

also what about the coupler? between the 50mm + 100mm? that adds another 3mm


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> which top?
> 
> depending on the top chosen the height can vary slightly as well
> 
> also what about the coupler? between the 50mm + 100mm? that adds another 3mm


Tube segments add the called out length as they are "nominal". What that means is that a 100mm tube is actually 106mm long, but each end recesses 3mm into the end cap or coupler it is attached to. So a 100mm tube adds 100mm of length to the reservoir.

So his reservoir length would be (as an example) End Cap (MMRS-EC-3P) 29mm + 100mm tube + coupler (MMRS-BH) 24mm + 50mm tube + pump top (TRP) 32mm + Motor Mounting Tube (M2-MMT-WC) 42mm = 277mm.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Looks like Ceadderman, Deedaz, and I cross posted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I seriously dislike Illustrator (once you *think* in CAD or Solidworks using illustrator feels a bit like being punished) but even with my hacking it only took about 30 minutes. See if that is what you had in mind.
> 
> My unsolicited advice...simplify it a bit. The small connecting lines around the perimeter (6 of them) I would consider leaving those out. Just my two cents.


Okay guess the busy idea doesn't work. Tried it a bunch of times and it simply doesn't pan out.

So I am thinking this design between each. But I've forgotten the specs to achieve to get it down to a manageable fit between them.











I think this would be cool if I can get it down right and now the crunch is on.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

PPCs announced its winners [monsoon Ev2 fittings] and ... poo ... I wasn't one of them. I will have to plunk down my own ca$h to get some fittings.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> PPCs announced its winners [monsoon Ev2 fittings] and ... poo ... I wasn't one of them. I will have to plunk down my own ca$h to get some fittings.


Well, at least it is going to a good home. Ten cats and four dogs, (it fluctuates with adoptions and "this is the LAST one I SWEAR" situations.


----------



## seross69

If anyone needs some Monsoon Fittings I have some for sell in the marketplace!!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1615218/monsoon-fittings-get-a-great-deal/0_50


----------



## Koala Bear

Due to so many & varied problems with this upgrade it has taken far to long to complete. Boxgods thank you again for your assistance with the couplers. Just one problem I need to get a black uv light which is on its way here instead of the white light I am currently using.


----------



## Benjiw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to so many & varied problems with this upgrade it has taken far to long to complete. Boxgods thank you again for your assistance with the couplers.


What do you mean? Looks good!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to so many & varied problems with this upgrade it has taken far to long to complete. Boxgods thank you again for your assistance with the couplers. Just one problem I need to get a black uv light which is on its way here instead of the white light I am currently using.


Man, I am SO getting one of those cases and wall mounting it behind my desk.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to so many & varied problems with this upgrade it has taken far to long to complete. Boxgods thank you again for your assistance with the couplers. Just one problem I need to get a black uv light which is on its way here instead of the white light I am currently using.
> 
> 
> 
> Man, I am SO getting one of those cases and wall mounting it behind my desk.
Click to expand...

Tfake case Geno. Just make your own and set it up any way you want.









~Ceadder


----------



## Koala Bear

Benjiw this upgrade started back in August as my old 2013 Titan looked like it was dying ie sudden & large drop in fps. Throw in blue screens of death which resulted in a new SSD & an upgrade to windows 10. I then found out my Thermaltake Radiator was made out of aluminium....coolant changed color ect. As well as the TT reservoir having aluminium. Which is where the monsoon radiator / pump combo came in. That took a long time to get together....no one's fault. Some monsoon parts were out of stock plus delivery time from US to Australia. As well as my guy ( he is very busy& I can't do it due to ill health ) finding time to assemble everything. I still haven't got my Acer X34 up & running. According to Acer there are no problems with X34 after sending it back in August which resulted in an upgrade to the Gigabyte GTX 1080 extreme gaming. Every time I try to use the X34 I get a black screen & have to reload Win 10. This also happened with my old Samsung 21" Sync Master 2233. After last install of windows on Thursday I have had to reboot twice to get windows to run using 21". So far everything is stable today. I might try the X34 later next week & see what happens. I just feel like the X34 is jinxed as nothing has gone right since buying it. I actually asked my guy if he wanted to buy it







Anyway everything seems good as I write this...fingers crossed.


----------



## AllGamer

I like that triple stacked reservoir! that's neat









that's 3 cylinder of 200mm right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koala Bear*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Due to so many & varied problems with this upgrade it has taken far to long to complete. Boxgods thank you again for your assistance with the couplers. Just one problem I need to get a black uv light which is on its way here instead of the white light I am currently using.


----------



## ruffhi

200mm looks too much when compared to the fans. I would say 3 x 100mm


----------



## Koala Bear

Yup 3 x 100mm. Top & bottom are white frosted & middle is white reactor core. It might be easier to see the color of each cylinder when I install the black UV light.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Tfake case Geno. Just make your own and set it up any way you want.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have built LOTS of wall mounted PC's from scratch. My first was a dual rig (side by side) in 2002. I do have a few cool designs laying around for a wall mount system to do as Monsoon products. Just haven't ever gotten around to getting them going.


----------



## Unnatural

Well, if you really like the Thermaltake Core P5, I've read an improved version (with tempered glass instead of acrylic) is about to be released!


----------



## Revan654

quick question will their be any other kind of mounting devices or the res? Like maybe a device that will hook onto the tensions rods? Only reason I'm asking the current mounting on a 300mm res. The gap between the two mounting is to large that it doesn't fit onto Case-Labs res plate. Plate is 240mm.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> quick question will their be any other kind of mounting devices or the res? Like maybe a device that will hook onto the tensions rods? Only reason I'm asking the current mounting on a 300mm res. The gap between the two mounting is to large that it doesn't fit onto Case-Labs res plate. Plate is 240mm.


You can currently mount with the stock side facing mounts, (these come in 12mm, 25mm, and 50mm heights), with the low profile (grasshopper) mount, by using the FDP as a mount, or with the vertical mount. The radiator mounts either are already at Performance, or should be there any time now. I finished the design for a vertical and horizontal fan mount also, but they are fairly expensive to make so I am not certain we will go ahead with those as there may not be enough interest in them to justify a production run as there are already a LOT of ways to mount MMRS--I forgot bay reservoir mounting...

If you need to use the standard mounts and want them closer to the center, you might consider using a pair of couplers and three tube segments. That would allow you to use mounts on the coupler and space them at either 74mm or 124mm.


----------



## thetherington

Hello OCN friends. I have some Monsoon love to share with you all. I think it took me like 6 hours to assemble and get it mounted in the case







. With that in mind, i desperately need to do a leak test with just the radiators and the MMRS because i felt the MMRS assembly to be pretty cumbersome getting everything to tighten down. I assembled it twice just to make sure i covered all the bases.

If i could suggest anything, it would be nice if there was a hole drilling template for the res mounts that are tube spaced for 50,100,150,200 mm. For some reason, i made it out to be a measurement nightmare to prepare the drill holes for both cap res mounts.


----------



## ThaSpike

Where would I order these reservoirs in Europe, preferably Germany. I checked the websites listed on Monsooncooling.com's where to buy section. Overclockers.co.uk is the only one offering the parts, but only in 3 colors (Black, red and clear). Offcourse I want another color.

Thanks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> Where would I order these reservoirs in Europe, preferably Germany. I checked the websites listed on Monsooncooling.com's where to buy section. Overclockers.co.uk is the only one offering the parts, but only in 3 colors (Black, red and clear). Offcourse I want another color.
> 
> Thanks


Your best bet is to send a "nag" email to Aquatuning as they are dragging their bums a bit ordering.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Hello OCN friends. I have some Monsoon love to share with you all. I think it took me like 6 hours to assemble and get it mounted in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . With that in mind, i desperately need to do a leak test with just the radiators and the MMRS because i felt the MMRS assembly to be pretty cumbersome getting everything to tighten down. I assembled it twice just to make sure i covered all the bases.
> 
> If i could suggest anything, it would be nice if there was a hole drilling template for the res mounts that are tube spaced for 50,100,150,200 mm. For some reason, i made it out to be a measurement nightmare to prepare the drill holes for both cap res mounts.


We include mounting templates for all the items that we reasonably can--grasshopper mount, vertical mount, FDP, etc.. For some of the parts, there are just too many variables to have a template for every possible configuration. Not to pick on you







but in your case it is really only two dimensions in a square to measure--26mm between the holes left to right and 124mm up and down. Does not seem THAT hard









End of the day it came out looking awesome!


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Your best bet is to send a "nag" email to Aquatuning as they are dragging their bums a bit ordering.


That's exactly what I will do then. And if they don't respond to my nagging, any alternatives?


----------



## AllGamer

Wow.. am I seeing right?

You are only hanging the Reservoir in mid air between 2 Rads ?

wouldn't the weight + liquid damage those fittings over time? especially the rotary fittings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Hello OCN friends. I have some Monsoon love to share with you all. I think it took me like 6 hours to assemble and get it mounted in the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . With that in mind, i desperately need to do a leak test with just the radiators and the MMRS because i felt the MMRS assembly to be pretty cumbersome getting everything to tighten down. I assembled it twice just to make sure i covered all the bases.
> 
> If i could suggest anything, it would be nice if there was a hole drilling template for the res mounts that are tube spaced for 50,100,150,200 mm. For some reason, i made it out to be a measurement nightmare to prepare the drill holes for both cap res mounts.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Wow.. am I seeing right?
> 
> You are only hanging the Reservoir in mid air between 2 Rads ?
> 
> wouldn't the weight + liquid damage those fittings over time? especially the rotary fittings.


it has res mounts if you read his post he points that out...they are rather incognito though


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Wow.. am I seeing right?
> 
> You are only hanging the Reservoir in mid air between 2 Rads ?
> 
> wouldn't the weight + liquid damage those fittings over time? especially the rotary fittings.


Haha, that would be really funny if i could have pulled that off. No, the reservoir is mounted to the case with the MMRS mounts. The picture has deep shadows making it not visible.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> Haha, that would be really funny if i could have pulled that off. No, the reservoir is mounted to the case with the MMRS mounts. The picture has deep shadows making it not visible.










ah much better photo

it almost looked like it was floating in there in the other shots.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You can currently mount with the stock side facing mounts, (these come in 12mm, 25mm, and 50mm heights), with the low profile (grasshopper) mount, by using the FDP as a mount, or with the vertical mount. The radiator mounts either are already at Performance, or should be there any time now. I finished the design for a vertical and horizontal fan mount also, but they are fairly expensive to make so I am not certain we will go ahead with those as there may not be enough interest in them to justify a production run as there are already a LOT of ways to mount MMRS--I forgot bay reservoir mounting...
> 
> If you need to use the standard mounts and want them closer to the center, you might consider using a pair of couplers and three tube segments. That would allow you to use mounts on the coupler and space them at either 74mm or 124mm.


I'm trying to just to use the parts I have & without downsizing the tube. I have two res which need to sit next to one another.

Here is a picture and with the extra space with an old res plate I had from Case-Labs.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I'm trying to just to use the parts I have & without downsizing the tube. I have two res which need to sit next to one another.
> 
> Here is a picture and with the extra space with an old res plate I had from Case-Labs.


It looks like the grasshopper mounts would reach the plate fairly easily.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Your best bet is to send a "nag" email to Aquatuning as they are dragging their bums a bit ordering.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> That's exactly what I will do then. And if they don't respond to my nagging, any alternatives?


Aquatuning response:
Ja wir bekommen diese Ausgleichsbehälter in unser Sortiment,
wird allerdings noch einige Zeit dauern, wir können Ihnen da noch keinen genauen Liefertermin nennen.

Translation:
Yes we'll have them, but it'll still take a while and we can't give you an estimate.

So their answer only confirms that they are in fact dragging their bums. Do you have any alternatives other than ordering from the US?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> Aquatuning response:
> Ja wir bekommen diese Ausgleichsbehälter in unser Sortiment,
> wird allerdings noch einige Zeit dauern, wir können Ihnen da noch keinen genauen Liefertermin nennen.
> 
> Translation:
> Yes we'll have them, but it'll still take a while and we can't give you an estimate.
> 
> So their answer only confirms that they are in fact dragging their bums. Do you have any alternatives other than ordering from the US?


Have you tried OCUK? Other than them not really as it is the shipping that kills you. It is so strange about Aquatuning as I have always found them to be 100% on top of "the business" and they are really missing the boat with MMRS as I get 20 emails a week from people in Europe wanting a reseller. We haven't even sent review samples to any reviewers in the EU yet because I feel bad telling people I can't help them.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Have you tried OCUK?


The problem with OCUK is they only list three of the available colors for tubing and four for the tension rods on their website. And I want a color they don't list.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> The problem with OCUK is they only list three of the available colors for tubing and four for the tension rods on their website. And I want a color they don't list.


You might also try Titan Rig. Not sure if they are on Amazon International or not...other than that...email OCUK and nag them to stock the other colors. Sorry I can't offer you more than that


----------



## Revan654

It just fits, Need grab a second set for my second res.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It just fits, Need grab a second set for my second res.


Awesome


----------



## RobbieG-OcUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> The problem with OCUK is they only list three of the available colors for tubing and four for the tension rods on their website. And I want a color they don't list.


What colour were you after? We have green as well listed and the reactor tubes coming into stock soon.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobbieG-OcUK*
> 
> What colour were you after? We have green as well listed and the reactor tubes coming into stock soon.


Not completely sure yet, but thinking about a combination of black and green. Checked your website once more, still can't find any listing of the green parts. Could you give me the correct link. When do you expect the green tubes?


----------



## RobbieG-OcUK

Hopefully you can find what you need in here : https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search/index/sSearch/mmrs+green


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobbieG-OcUK*
> 
> Hopefully you can find what you need in here : https://www.overclockers.co.uk/search/index/sSearch/mmrs+green


Yes I can, Thanks.

What about the extension ring for the D5 pump cover, can't find a listing for that either.


----------



## RobbieG-OcUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> Yes I can, Thanks.
> 
> What about the extension ring for the D5 pump cover, can't find a listing for that either.


They are missing sorry. It will probably be beginning of next year now for those I'm afraid.


----------



## ThaSpike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RobbieG-OcUK*
> 
> They are missing sorry. It will probably be beginning of next year now for those I'm afraid.


OK, but they are coming, I can be patient for a little while still.


----------



## RobbieG-OcUK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> OK, but they are coming, I can be patient for a little while still.


Yes they will be coming hopefully in Jan.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpike*
> 
> OK, but they are coming, I can be patient for a little while still.


Not sure if it helps you, but you can assemble everything without the extension ring and just leave the decorative cover off the motor mounting tube and it will all work fine. Then when the extension ring arrives it can be added--without taking anything apart in your build--and the cover fits right on.


----------



## rathar3

Hey gene i measured my res for the 200mm CCFL's like you said but they are to long. So i am going to try 8mm extenders and see if that works.Its 202 mm from end cap to pump face hoping this works.

Also i dont see any purple uv lights for inside the res just black will that change later?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey gene i measured my res for the 200mm CCFL's like you said but they are to long. So i am going to try 8mm extenders and see if that works.Its 202 mm from end cap to pump face hoping this works.
> 
> Also i dont see any purple uv lights for inside the res just black will that change later?


Black? Not sure I follow. Do you mean UV lights? If so those are available. If you mean actual purple light...no we do not have thse.


----------



## rathar3

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-ccfl-plug-for-200mm-tube-uv-black.html http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-200mm-ccfl-bulb-two-pack-uv.html

was talking about the 2 colors here or are they the same in the end


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-ccfl-plug-for-200mm-tube-uv-black.html http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-200mm-ccfl-bulb-two-pack-uv.html
> 
> was talking about the 2 colors here or are they the same in the end


Those are both UV, aka black lights. The second link is for the lights that attach to the res mounts on the outside of the tube res while the first is for the plug that goes inside the res.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Those are both UV, aka black lights. The second link is for the lights that attach to the res mounts on the outside of the tube res while the first is for the plug that goes inside the res.


Ok thanks in the descriptionone said black other says purple UV was kinda confused


----------



## Revan654

Started working on my Res setup.

One small issue I noticed. The one end Cap I got one the right side hole for the mounts is having problems catching the screw. It doesn't allow to me completely tighten the screw.


----------



## BoxGods

It can be a little tricky getting the screw started for the first time--one of the joys of threads perpendicular to a round object









If you use the mount itself to hold the screw straight it helps, and once you do get the screw in the first time it is a lot easier from then on.

Yeah...I am just gonna post it and save somebody else the trouble


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes it can. Which is why I always recommend prefitting parts before putting a loop together. Know your parts as an extension of yourself. This goes for every mechanical part I work with.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It can be a little tricky getting the screw started for the first time--one of the joys of threads perpendicular to a round object
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you use the mount itself to hold the screw straight it helps, and once you do get the screw in the first time it is a lot easier from then on.
> 
> Yeah...I am just gonna post it and save somebody else the trouble


It's not that, It just will not catch the screw. The other side is fine. I been trying for a bit and the screws just keeps going and going. It's like the hole was not properly threaded.


----------



## BoxGods

Try applying some force as in pushing down on the screw as you turn. The very first thread might have gotten rolled over a bit. Make sure it is going straight though of course.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Try applying some force as in pushing down on the screw as you turn. The very first thread might have gotten rolled over a bit. Make sure it is going straight though of course.


I tried, the screw acts like the Energizer bunny and keeps going and going.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I tried, the screw acts like the Energizer bunny and keeps going and going.


Sounds like the first few threads might be stripped then and the part will have to be replaced.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sounds like the first few threads might be stripped then and the part will have to be replaced.


Do I start a RMA on MonSoon website?

Also any eta yet when those expansion rings will be available for D5 Pump tops?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Do I start a RMA on MonSoon website?
> 
> Also any eta yet when those expansion rings will be available for D5 Pump tops?


Is it an MMRS-EC-3P (the one with no side facing ports)?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Do I start a RMA on MonSoon website?
> 
> Also any eta yet when those expansion rings will be available for D5 Pump tops?


Is it an MMRS-EC-3P (the one with no side facing ports)?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Is it an MMRS-EC-3P (the one with no side facing ports)?


It's the MMRS-SP-1P .


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It's the MMRS-SP-1P .


Let me look and see if we have one in stock here first as that is a little bit faster. If not you will need to get it replaced at Performance. Will be back to you in a bit.

Oh--you had asked when the Motor Mounting Tube Extension Rings would be available.

In about an hour =)


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Let me look and see if we have one in stock here first as that is a little bit faster. If not you will need to get it replaced at Performance. Will be back to you in a bit.
> 
> Oh--you had asked when the Motor Mounting Tube Extension Rings would be available.
> 
> In about an hour =)


ok, Thanks.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> ok, Thanks.


I do have one in stock--if you can PM or email me your shipping information it can go out this AM.


----------



## Zashel

is there any effort being put into an anti-cyclone device? I'm using one of the side ports on top as the return line (due to space) and my pumps are directly fed from the 100mm res. that means I have a *wicked* cyclone going, pumping air all over my system.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zashel*
> 
> is there any effort being put into an anti-cyclone device? I'm using one of the side ports on top as the return line (due to space) and my pumps are directly fed from the 100mm res. that means I have a *wicked* cyclone going, pumping air all over my system.


Yes there is. See http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-mate-kit-black.html for an anti cyclone devise. I had a great cyclone going in my res too ... putting that trident thing in killed it.


----------



## toolmaker03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zashel*
> 
> is there any effort being put into an anti-cyclone device? I'm using one of the side ports on top as the return line (due to space) and my pumps are directly fed from the 100mm res. that means I have a *wicked* cyclone going, pumping air all over my system.


http://www.performance-pcs.com/misc-brand-reservoirs-parts-accessories/alphacool-bubble-down-g1-4-deep-black.html

this is what I use in all my reservoirs to prevent a cyclone, or vortex.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I do have one in stock--if you can PM or email me your shipping information it can go out this AM.


PM Sent.


----------



## Zashel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Yes there is. See http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-mate-kit-black.html for an anti cyclone devise. I had a great cyclone going in my res too ... putting that trident thing in killed it.


if the trident piece was sold seperetly i'd give it a shot. $12 for the $.50 piece i want is silly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toolmaker03*
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/misc-brand-reservoirs-parts-accessories/alphacool-bubble-down-g1-4-deep-black.html
> 
> this is what I use in all my reservoirs to prevent a cyclone, or vortex.


im not sure i have enough thread left on the interior of the Fill/Drain cap to be able to use this. i put this all together a while ago and the mobo never got tested before i assembled, turns out it was bad. so i've pretty much been sitting on my hands, and have no idea how much thread is left.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zashel*
> 
> if the trident piece was sold seperetly i'd give it a shot. $12 for the $.50 piece i want is silly.
> im not sure i have enough thread left on the interior of the Fill/Drain cap to be able to use this. i put this all together a while ago and the mobo never got tested before i assembled, turns out it was bad. so i've pretty much been sitting on my hands, and have no idea how much thread is left.


They are sold in stand-alone two packs pretty cheap--$4.50 for the 2 pack so about $2.25 each.. Available in black and white. Garrette was adding them to the site today so they may not show up in the search box yet, but the part number is MMRS-PIT-BK for the black and MMRS-PIT-WH for the white parts. They should be visible any time now.

On a side note--if you can mold those cheap enough to sell them for $.50 cents...you and I need to do some business


----------



## BoxGods

While I am mentioning new parts available, Performance should have the D5 motor mounting extension rings, Fitting Plugs, Push in Trident two packs, and 120mm / 140mm rad mounting kits up anytime now as well.


----------



## Zashel

and there they are. kudos!


----------



## Revan654

Stop Plugs are now up on PPCS. They do look interesting Might grab a few for my bottom part of the Res.


----------



## rathar3

Ordered my 1/2 x 5/8 monsoon bending kit today from Performance. Few weeks order all the rest and have a real good reason to ignore everyone over the holidays









Also got the heat gun too. Question dose the kit with the case or the heatgun come with gloves?


----------



## Stringer-Bell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It helps if you use the box (available area or "work envelope") provided on the template--the dimensions are:
> 
> • For the 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 62.8mm wide.
> • For the 1/2 x 5/8 (16mm) fitting, the box is 13mm tall by 70.38 wide.
> 
> And here is the Ghost Squadron log used by Koenigsegg in their supercars:


Assuming I'm putting 4 images/pictures on 16mm fittings similar to the Ghost Squadron image above, would you suggest centering it so there's an equal amount of white space on the left and right edges or left/right justifying on the edges of the "work envelope" similar to the Ghost design above?

Thanks for the exact dimensions for these custom etching templates. Looking forward to ordering some of these custom fittings from PPCS soon!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Stop Plugs are now up on PPCS. They do look interesting Might grab a few for my bottom part of the Res.


These are actually a bit counter-intuitive--like they might seem a little weird--but once you install them they turn out to look pretty cool. Maybe not for everyone but I like them


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Ordered my 1/2 x 5/8 monsoon bending kit today from Performance. Few weeks order all the rest and have a real good reason to ignore everyone over the holidays
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got the heat gun too. Question dose the kit with the case or the heatgun come with gloves?


Heat guns come with cotton gloves.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stringer-Bell*
> 
> Assuming I'm putting 4 images/pictures on 16mm fittings similar to the Ghost Squadron image above, would you suggest centering it so there's an equal amount of white space on the left and right edges or left/right justifying on the edges of the "work envelope" similar to the Ghost design above?
> 
> Thanks for the exact dimensions for these custom etching templates. Looking forward to ordering some of these custom fittings from PPCS soon!


This is a bit convoluted to explain, but I just drop all four of my shapes into the box, then put the first one all the way left, the second one just touching the first, the third just touching the second etc. Turn the grid on and I count the number of grid squares left between the right side of the 4th design and the right edge of the box. As an example, if I have 8 grid squares left, I know I need two between each design. Then I select each design and use the left / right arrow keys to move it as needed to get that spacing.

The etch is done on a cylinder so it really doesn't matter if the first pattern is a set distance from the left edge or right on it, as long as your spacing between the design elements is correct. If that makes any sense.


----------



## rathar3

Thanks Gene i know by the time i start doing this i would have forgotten to get some


----------



## Stringer-Bell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> This is a bit convoluted to explain, but I just drop all four of my shapes into the box, then put the first one all the way left, the second one just touching the first, the third just touching the second etc.


Solid explanation and I appreciate the quick reply. Finally finished my design and ended up leaving a few pixels of blank space on the left edge just in case there's a little bit of overlap.

Left Edge -- 10 pixels -- Logo1 -- 736 pixels -- L2 -- 736 pixels -- L3 -- 736 pixels -- L4 -- 726 pixels -- Right Edge

Small scale preview.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stringer-Bell*
> 
> Solid explanation and I appreciate the quick reply. Finally finished my design and ended up leaving a few pixels of blank space on the left edge just in case there's a little bit of overlap.
> 
> Left Edge -- 10 pixels -- Logo1 -- 736 pixels -- L2 -- 736 pixels -- L3 -- 736 pixels -- L4 -- 726 pixels -- Right Edge
> 
> Small scale preview.


I recognize this artwork from an order at Performance. Have they contacted you yet about using jpeg type artwork rather than true vector files? That doesn't mean dropping the jpeg into a vector program like Illustrator either, (the first thing people normally do after they are told about the vector file requirement).


----------



## Stringer-Bell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I recognize this artwork from an order at Performance. Have they contacted you yet about using jpeg type artwork rather than true vector files? That doesn't mean dropping the jpeg into a vector program like Illustrator either, (the first thing people normally do after they are told about the vector file requirement).


Yeah they contacted me yesterday. I made the mistake of sending a far too small .PSD version on the first go around before I went ahead and purchased the vector design on shutterstock. Honestly the most difficult part of the process was finding the exact dimensions of that darn "work envelope" and I think PPCS might have a file incorrectly linked on their custom etching page as the 'template' .AI file linked here clearly isn't anything of the sort.

Sent PPCS contact an Adobe Illustrator .AI version (with both a flattened layer and individual layers of the 4 images) this afternoon.

This time around I scaled it up a bit and the native size of the design is 281.52cm by 52cm so I doubt I'll have any pixelation problems now!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stringer-Bell*
> 
> Yeah they contacted me yesterday. I made the mistake of sending a far too small .PSD version on the first go around before I went ahead and purchased the vector design on shutterstock. Honestly the most difficult part of the process was finding the exact dimensions of that darn "work envelope" and I think PPCS might have a file incorrectly linked on their custom etching page as the 'template' .AI file linked here clearly isn't anything of the sort.
> 
> Sent PPCS contact an Adobe Illustrator .AI version (with both a flattened layer and individual layers of the 4 images) this afternoon.
> 
> This time around I scaled it up a bit and the native size of the design is 281.52cm by 52cm so I doubt I'll have any pixelation problems now!


Yeah, looks like they posted the .pdf version (not sure why) wich is a bit worthless.

The reason vector files are used in printing (or laser etching) is that they will scale up or down any amount with zero pixelation. I will have a look when I get the file from Performance.


----------



## DocShay

Hey guys,

Not sure if this belongs here or just in the regular channel...but anyway. New to W/C, bought a MMRS and put it together. Figured i'd do a leak test with it before continuing with my case and build. I used a 2 foot tube to connect the pump outlet to the top of the reservoir - Put the D5 on level 1 and 2 (Video is at level 2) and noticed there is a hell of a lot of turbulence and noise. Is this due to the loop being so short with no restrictions? (Like I said, 2 foot tube)

Will it do this once I have my loop going? (Rad, cpu block, etc)





10 second video of what I mean.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Not sure if this belongs here or just in the regular channel...but anyway. New to W/C, bought a MMRS and put it together. Figured i'd do a leak test with it before continuing with my case and build. I used a 2 foot tube to connect the pump outlet to the top of the reservoir - Put the D5 on level 1 and 2 (Video is at level 2) and noticed there is a hell of a lot of turbulence and noise. Is this due to the loop being so short with no restrictions? (Like I said, 2 foot tube)
> 
> Will it do this once I have my loop going? (Rad, cpu block, etc)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10 second video of what I mean.


Part of it is the unrestricted full flow, but most of it is air. Air transmits vibrations and sound and makes it look very "dramatic"









Keep in mind that the D5 is moving enough water to replace the contents of your reservoir something like 10 times a minute...


----------



## ruffhi

I had a vortex in mine and it was in a full loop. Fixed it with an anti-vortex trident.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I had a vortex in mine and it was in a full loop. Fixed it with an anti-vortex trident.


He has one on the TRP which should be enough as the reservoir is not that long. He can certainly add one to the top end cap--it won't hurt anything. If there is air in the loop it will still have a lot of turbulence and air-related noise. There is just no substitute for a properly bled loop


----------



## rathar3

Got my 1/2 x 5/8 bending kit yesterday. and the heat gun. No gloves with the heat gun so whats the best type to get.?


----------



## Ceadderman

Knit work gloves w/o the rubber palms is best. But be careful how hard you grasp your tubing. I'very left impressions from the knitted material on a piece I was heating when I held it on the 90* mandrel with one hand.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Got my 1/2 x 5/8 bending kit yesterday. and the heat gun. No gloves with the heat gun so whats the best type to get.?


Man, what the hell are they doing with the gloves?

You want the cheap $ store cotton gloves that are $1.50 for a three pack. They are similar in feel to a pair of cotton tube socks.

Here is what they look like.

http://cdn3.volusion.com/oa7sc.4y6td/v/vspfiles/photos/80-1610-P-2.jpg?1404990991


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Got my 1/2 x 5/8 bending kit yesterday. and the heat gun. No gloves with the heat gun so whats the best type to get.?
> 
> 
> 
> Man, what the hell are they doing with the gloves?
> 
> You want the cheap $ store cotton gloves that are $1.50 for a three pack. They are similar in feel to a pair of cotton tube socks.
> 
> Here is what they look like.
> 
> http://cdn3.volusion.com/oa7sc.4y6td/v/vspfiles/photos/80-1610-P-2.jpg?1404990991
Click to expand...

See, I had that happen to me too. I contacted them and asked them what was up and a couple weeks later you guys sent me a pair. Made me a Monsoon man for life.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

Everything that can be Monsoon is Monsoon in my system







I will look around and see if i can find some at Walmart or Lowe's

Thanks Gene


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> See, I had that happen to me too. I contacted them and asked them what was up and a couple weeks later you guys sent me a pair. Made me a Monsoon man for life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


And I appreciate it too. In fact, being as it is Thanksgiving which makes it OK to get a little sappy, there are 10 people *and their families* that have roofs over their heads and food on the table because of all of you guys.

We are all of us very thankful and grateful for your support and your patronage.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone =)


----------



## rathar3

You to Gene. Put extra whipped cream on the pumpkin pie


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've been going back and forth with Gene from Monsoon about how to use the various o-rings he supplies with his old, original econ fittings.


His preferred method is ... small o-rings around the bottom of the fitting, fitting, tube, large o-rings, plastic washer and then lock cap / collar. Unfortunately, it is hard (near impossible) to actually find directions on how to use these original economy fittings.










So ... when I first used them, I used the o-rings in a different way ...

large o-ring, fitting, small o-ring (inside the fitting), tube, large o-ring, lock cap.










I did it this way because ... a) the large o-ring fitted nicely around the G1/4 thread part and b) the small o-ring fitted really well inside the fitting.










Also ... this meant that the end of the tube wasn't left to butt up to the bottom of the fitting ... it had an o-ring to butt into. Thus (I think), reducing the importance of getting an extremely flush bottom on your tube. It is still import because you don't want to chew into that o-ring ... but it is less important that if it wasn't there.










I tried it Gene's way and it leaked. I tried it my way ... no leak. So ... for me ... it is my way.

I asked Gene about this and he said (quote) ...

"_If you made it work some other way that is fine man...it IS modding right =)_"


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've been going back and forth with Gene from Monsoon about how to use the various o-rings he supplies with his old, original econ fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> His preferred method is ... small o-rings around the bottom of the fitting, fitting, tube, large o-rings, plastic washer and then lock cap / collar. Unfortunately, it is hard (near impossible) to actually find directions on how to use these original economy fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So ... when I first used them, I used the o-rings in a different way ...
> 
> large o-ring, fitting, small o-ring (inside the fitting), tube, large o-ring, lock cap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did it this way because ... a) the large o-ring fitted nicely around the G1/4 thread part and b) the small o-ring fitted really well inside the fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also ... this meant that the end of the tube wasn't left to butt up to the bottom of the fitting ... it had an o-ring to butt into. Thus (I think), reducing the importance of getting an extremely flush bottom on your tube. It is still import because you don't want to chew into that o-ring ... but it is less important that if it wasn't there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried it Gene's way and it leaked. I tried it my way ... no leak. So ... for me ... it is my way.
> 
> I asked Gene about this and he said (quote) ...
> 
> "_If you made it work some other way that is fine man...it IS modding right =)_"
Click to expand...

Take a fitting apart and look at the base. You will notice that the base has a milled circular flat strip. That should be filled with a flat rubber ring which your tube should butt to. If it doesn't have that ring in place then you will have a leak if you don't have that ring there. The small round one is the seal for between the fitting and component. The large one is the ring that holds the tube inside the fitting. The clear flat washer is to prevent the collar from pinching the large Oring and allowing coolant to pass through at the pinch point.

There really is no other way to set them up properly when using some critical thought rufhi.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

I just opened a new box of the old econ fittings from Monsoon. There were 6 fittings. Each fitting came with two large round o-rings (one resting on top of the fitting and one inside. There was also two bags of small round o-rings (one black, one white - my collars are white). That makes 24 o-rings in total ... all round, none flat (I scoped them).

Ceadder - I couldn't find your flat o-ring.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just opened a new box of the old econ fittings from Monsoon. There were 6 fittings. Each fitting came with two large round o-rings (one resting on top of the fitting and one inside. There was also two bags of small round o-rings (one black, one white - my collars are white). That makes 24 o-rings in total ... all round, none flat (I scoped them).
> 
> Ceadder - I couldn't find your flat o-ring.


The economy fittings do not need the flat O-ring he is talking about I think he got confused. But I always put the small on on the threads and the large one on the tube with the washer.. this is on 2 different builds and never had a leak..


----------



## Ceadderman

Soon as I can get close to my Economies I will post pics to clear up any confusion. I have 30 of them so all will become clear.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

One of the things I did not like about the original economy fittings--and one of the biggest reasons I changed to the new EV2 design--was how short the original fittings were. There just was not much tube length inside the fitting past the seal created by the large O-ring that seals on the side of the tube. To my thinking, this made it a little too easy for a tube to be inadvertently pulled free if it was not seated into the fitting 100% when installed.

I mention this because using the second small G 1/4 O-ring, (which is included as a spare) down inside the fitting shortens the tube penetration depth into the fitting. I personally would not recommend it as a "best practice" but if you do decide to use this configuration be extra careful to make sure you really force the tube into the fitting and keep pressure on it until you have tightened the compression ring down as you are decreasing the already too short, (IMO) penetration depth of the old design by another 1.5mm or so.

All of the above is why the EV2 design is much taller, has a lot more tube penetration depth, and double O-ring seals on the side of the tube--more reliable with less fussing about


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I mention this because using the second small G 1/4 O-ring, (which is included as a spare) down inside the fitting shortens the tube penetration depth into the fitting. I personally would not recommend it as a "best practice" but if you do decide to use this configuration be extra careful to make sure you really force the tube into the fitting and keep pressure on it until you have tightened the compression ring down as you are decreasing the already too short, (IMO) penetration depth of the old design by another 1.5mm or so.


Noted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> All of the above is why the EV2 design is much taller, has a lot more tube penetration depth, and double O-ring seals on the side of the tube--more reliable with less fussing about


I am really close to posting a double entendre ... but I will hold myself back.


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah...we all have given up resisting that urge around here. We make a lot of tube...and boxes etc. so the jokes sort of write themselves as they say. You would think the guys would be the ones being crude around the female employees, but the women seem to get a perverse kick out of using these long winding sentences about tube length and penetration etc. etc. just to make the guys kind of squirm.

After a year or two now...whenever anyone cracks one of those jokes all it gets are groans and eye rolls.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yeah...we all have given up resisting that urge around here. We make a lot of tube...and boxes etc. so the jokes sort of write themselves as they say. You would think the guys would be the ones being crude around the female employees, but the women seem to get a perverse kick out of using these long winding sentences about tube length and penetration etc. etc. just to make the guys kind of squirm.
> 
> After a year or two now...whenever anyone cracks one of those jokes all it gets are groans and eye rolls.


overused just like the tubes and boxes....yep i had to...


----------



## rathar3

Hey Gene will this pump work with the MMRS pump housing? Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 - Single Edition

Bleh says it wont work with the stand alone pump


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene will this pump work with the MMRS pump housing? Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 - Single Edition
> 
> Bleh says it wont work with the stand alone pump


Is it a D5?


----------



## DocShay

So I made a dumb mistake - I tightened my new monsoon economy fitting compression piece way to tight over the other part of the fitting. When I went to take it off, the entire fitting came off - How do I go about separating them so I can use it again? (Also, even being that tight - It still leaked. ***. I *think* I made a bend too close inside the fitting, thats the only thing I can think of)


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Is it a D5?


Yes, It was released on PPCS the other day.

Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-eispumpe-vpp755-single-edition.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene will this pump work with the MMRS pump housing? Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 - Single Edition
> 
> Bleh says it wont work with the stand alone pump


I don't see why it wouldn't work unless the casing is a bit bigger or smaller compared to other D5 pumps.

It does state: "compatible to D5 mounting places".


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> So I made a dumb mistake - I tightened my new monsoon economy fitting compression piece way to tight over the other part of the fitting. When I went to take it off, the entire fitting came off - How do I go about separating them so I can use it again? (Also, even being that tight - It still leaked. ***. I *think* I made a bend too close inside the fitting, thats the only thing I can think of)


Do you have two of the monsoon spanners? Insert one into the fitting and use the other to unscrew the cover.


----------



## rathar3

I read what i could and they changed the casing size and the shoulder is a different size. Also they say the shaft is longer. If you look at the pump on the Performance Pc page it has 2 reviews both say its does not work with all d5 pumps.

The second one says Looks like contact between impeller and volute during operation. I wont post other reviews here cause i dont remember if we can its in the 3rd page gene near the bottom


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> I read what i could and they changed the casing size and the shoulder is a different size. Also they say the shaft is longer. If you look at the pump on the Performance Pc page it has 2 reviews both say its does not work with all d5 pumps.
> 
> The second one says Looks like contact between impeller and volute during operation. I wont post other reviews here cause i dont remember if we can its in the 3rd page gene near the bottom


If it is a close contact, maybe a thicker O-ring would work?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> So I made a dumb mistake - I tightened my new monsoon economy fitting compression piece way to tight over the other part of the fitting. When I went to take it off, the entire fitting came off - How do I go about separating them so I can use it again? (Also, even being that tight - It still leaked. ***. I *think* I made a bend too close inside the fitting, thats the only thing I can think of)


No worries--most of us have done this at least once =)

First, if the tube is still in place, you can try holding the tube with one hand and turning the compression ring with the other (using the wrench).

If the tube is no longer in place there are a few other methods that will work. Which fitting type is it?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If it is a close contact, maybe a thicker O-ring would work?


UH maybe but not going to try it. Was a nice choice but going with another brand. I am changing my system from soft to hard tube. Color change from blue to UV purple. Got the bending kit already will be getting the rest of the stuff soon. All tubing is monsoon 1/2 x 5/8 petg and going with 1/2 x 5/8 monsoon fittings all purple.

Since i am doing a full rebuild and color change i am going to use the mayhems cleaning system then change all fittings and lines.Ripping my current d5 out is not something i want to do so i was going to get a pump as a backup also as i have a MMRS SAP housing from my blue build.

This way i can remove the rad and clean it good with the mayhems part 1 and not run it thru my system.

I posted that it was a issue with the MMRS SAP as a heads up to you Gene so you knew


----------



## DocShay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> No worries--most of us have done this at least once =)
> 
> First, if the tube is still in place, you can try holding the tube with one hand and turning the compression ring with the other (using the wrench).
> 
> If the tube is no longer in place there are a few other methods that will work. Which fitting type is it?


They are the 1/2" rigid economy fittings. One has a tube in it, I will try the method you mentioned. I have one other that does not have a tube connected still. Ideas for the one with no tube connected?


----------



## Ceadderman

@DocShay

Use a piece of painters tape and wrap the collar with it. Then use an Allen key with tape wrapped around it to protect the finish.

This should give you enough surface to grip the collar by hand and back it off the base.

Don't feel bad. I did the same thing with my first box of those fittings and this is how I recovered from my faux pas.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

The best bet is using the supplied wrench on the compression ring, and a hex wrench on the base. Less risk of hurting the finish that way. Any hardware store or Home Depot will have the hex wrench. If you look at the base of the fitting from the bottom you will see where the hex wrench fits.

Option two is to take a short length of scrap tube--about 10mm long--and slice it open so it is no longer a ring. Fit it onto the threads on the bottom of the fitting and use a pair of adjustable pliers--link below so you know the type I mean. Use the larger setting on the pliers and put them onto the tube covered part of the fitting in the round pipe section of the jaws, and the supplied fitting wrench on the compression ring. The soft tube will get damaged but with a little care, the threads on the bottom of the fitting will be fine.

Remember...lefty Lucy, rightie tighty =)

http://toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Tekton-USA-Slip-Joint-Pliers.jpg


----------



## Revan654

SAP will not work with Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755, Someone did try it. Saying it has horrible vibrations. due to how lose it is in the top. I would be more concern it would leak over time. So far theirs only a handful of tops that the pump will work with.

I kept hearing Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 is not a true D5 pump.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> SAP will not work with Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755, Someone did try it. Saying it has horrible vibrations. due to how lose it is in the top. I would be more concern it would leak over time. So far theirs only a handful of tops that the pump will work with.
> 
> I kept hearing Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 is not a true D5 pump.


Is it a Chinese D5 knock off?


----------



## Mega Man

No, a new pump by alphacool ( like the new swiftech mcp350 or a few others) was made completely in house (by alphacool)


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> SAP will not work with Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755, Someone did try it. Saying it has horrible vibrations. due to how lose it is in the top. I would be more concern it would leak over time. So far theirs only a handful of tops that the pump will work with.
> 
> I kept hearing Alphacool Eispumpe VPP755 is not a true D5 pump.


I kinda feel like what you wrote is not exactly what was written and could be misinterpreted.
The pump was actually running very smoothly for a couple of minutes, before it the issue arose and started making the horrible noise.
It was obvious that something went wrong while running and glad I was on hand to switch off the pump and save it from damage.

_"Monsoon SAP - sealed well and wet test commenced but after running for ~2 minutes (pump vertical) noise erupted from inside the pump. Looks like contact between impeller and volute during operation, shaft kept spinning and flicked off the white retaining washer and flat washer underneath it. It is possible I did not put impeller retaining washer back on properly, but very unlikely as pump had been in operation for many hours after it was re-assembled following the photo shoot. Has run smoothly for a few hours since the "incident"._

The explanation given is what might have happened, it is my best guess as to what went wrong, but now way of knowing for certain.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> I kinda feel like what you wrote is not exactly what was written and could be misinterpreted.
> The pump was actually running very smoothly for a couple of minutes, before it the issue arose and started making the horrible noise.
> It was obvious that something went wrong while running and glad I was on hand to switch off the pump and save it from damage.
> 
> _"Monsoon SAP - sealed well and wet test commenced but after running for ~2 minutes (pump vertical) noise erupted from inside the pump. Looks like contact between impeller and volute during operation, shaft kept spinning and flicked off the white retaining washer and flat washer underneath it. It is possible I did not put impeller retaining washer back on properly, but very unlikely as pump had been in operation for many hours after it was re-assembled following the photo shoot. Has run smoothly for a few hours since the "incident"._
> 
> The explanation given is what might have happened, it is my best guess as to what went wrong, but now way of knowing for certain.


Just repeating what Someone told me about their experience with the pump and SAP.


----------



## BoxGods

Wait...why would it run fine for several minutes and then have an issue with the impeller hitting the housing? Once the pump is locked in it is locked in. If it was OK at the start shouldn't if be fine period?

I am not knocking their new pump, but if the SAP and TRP run fine with every other variant of the D5 and from what has been posted here (no idea if it is correct) their new pump doesn't seem to run in most or a lot of the pump tops out there. Logically that would seem to indicate any issues are with the pump and not the SAP or TRP...or am I missing something?


----------



## Ceadderman

It's possible that there is a bit of gap between the impeller and the housing. Centrifugal force could be at work in this case and the impeller simply pulled away from the shafts as far as it could go.

I have had DDC pumps run into their tops from overtightening the tops. That's an easy fix. Simply loosen the retaining screws slightly.

But a top with a gap can't be adjusted.

Not that I have the parts in front of me. I don't know that there is a gap or that CF is causing the issue. Ju st speculation on my part. Unfortunately my son decided to climb under the end table and start pushing the box under it around the hardwood floor. So my brain is off track.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

Sorry i should have copied the whole thing but i didnt know if i could so its my fault. i read what i could on it and it said ran for a few minutes then made a noise and was stopped. i juts posted what they said was the issue.

In the one review it stated that the pump has a longer shaft and different shoulder size. dont know it that would cause it or not


----------



## BoxGods

I will watch and see how well it sells and if it does OK we can add a top for it. I wonder why they would make a D5 variant that doesn't fit all the many many D5 tops out there in the market? Products that don't conform to the specs tend to get "punished" so my guess is it will not do that well.


----------



## Malum

Hey boxgods
Have you ever before heard of any issues with your Led-light plugs ?
I'm talking about I just had 3 of mine starting to leak ever so slightly like 1 drop of fluid every 4-5 minutes.... They have been in my system for ca 1,5-2 years now without issues, then after my resently change of fluids I noticed that they were leaking a tiny bit. When I drained the system to investigate them I could see small "cracks" within them but only when I hold up against a light source.... I also noticed that some of my Led-light plugs were not made out of acrylic with a metallic cap on to hold the led bulb, they were instead made of metal with a clear section in the middle to allow the led to shine through(none of these were leaking) only the all acrylic ones had leaks.....

Are the metallic ones a newer design or older ? I ask because I bought all at the same time some 2-2,5 years ago at ppcs....


----------



## Deedaz

One of my cfl plugs is now full of coolant







Got home and saw some fluid on top of the res around the plugs and I could see about half of the tube was full. Not sure what happened while I was at work since nobody was home and the system was off, but I unplugged the lights and put regular plugs in.


----------



## Malum

Sad to hear that your ccfl-plugs are full of water :-( I have two of those too, but so far nothing seems to be wrong with mine, hope it stays that way....
Btw I also just removed my faulty led-plugs and put some normal monsoon plugs in instead...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malum*
> 
> Hey boxgods
> Have you ever before heard of any issues with your Led-light plugs ?
> I'm talking about I just had 3 of mine starting to leak ever so slightly like 1 drop of fluid every 4-5 minutes.... They have been in my system for ca 1,5-2 years now without issues, then after my resently change of fluids I noticed that they were leaking a tiny bit. When I drained the system to investigate them I could see small "cracks" within them but only when I hold up against a light source.... I also noticed that some of my Led-light plugs were not made out of acrylic with a metallic cap on to hold the led bulb, they were instead made of metal with a clear section in the middle to allow the led to shine through(none of these were leaking) only the all acrylic ones had leaks.....
> 
> Are the metallic ones a newer design or older ? I ask because I bought all at the same time some 2-2,5 years ago at ppcs....


The original LED plug was a two part design with a metal body and an acrylic lens. We occasionally had one leak so we replaced that design with a one piece acrylic plug so there was no seam and potential leak path. The one piece acrylic plug is molded and is the same body design we have sold as OEM parts all the way back to Danger Den--the plugs Performance has sold as their house brand for several years as another example--so a well-established part history IOW.

The only time you would normally see an issue with an acrylic plug is if it had been exposed at some point to a chemical that caused stress fractures like alcohol. Acrylic should *never* be exposed to glass cleaners that have alcohol (like Windex) as it can cause issues. One other possibility is over tightening but usually, you would have an issue with the threads if that were the case.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> One of my cfl plugs is now full of coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got home and saw some fluid on top of the res around the plugs and I could see about half of the tube was full. Not sure what happened while I was at work since nobody was home and the system was off, but I unplugged the lights and put regular plugs in.


First--sorry you had an issue. If you can send me your shipping information via PM I can get a replacement out to you ASAP.

It is actually pretty hard for the CCFL tube to leak as the top is O-ring sealed and the bottom cap is welded onto the tube ultrasonically (USW) so the bottom cap and tube are one monolithic part. Was the CCFL plug installed on the top or the bottom of your reservoir?

Also, did you happen to save the part after you took it out?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> One of my cfl plugs is now full of coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got home and saw some fluid on top of the res around the plugs and I could see about half of the tube was full. Not sure what happened while I was at work since nobody was home and the system was off, but I unplugged the lights and put regular plugs in.
> 
> 
> 
> First--sorry you had an issue. If you can send me your shipping information via PM I can get a replacement out to you ASAP.
> 
> It is actually pretty hard for the CCFL tube to leak as the top is O-ring sealed and the bottom cap is welded onto the tube ultrasonically (USW) so the bottom cap and tube are one monolithic part. Was the CCFL plug installed on the top or the bottom of your reservoir?
> 
> Also, did you happen to save the part after you took it out?
Click to expand...

It was installed in the top of the res. I really just can't figure out how the fluid ended up on top the res. Im thinking maybe once it was up there maybe it found its way inside?? But yeah, im at a loss as to how it even got there in the first place, orings were all good and caps were sealed.

I still have the light i was going to take a closer look at it and test it again


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It was installed in the top of the res. I really just can't figure out how the fluid ended up on top the res. Im thinking maybe once it was up there maybe it found its way inside?? But yeah, im at a loss as to how it even got there in the first place, orings were all good and caps were sealed.
> 
> I still have the light i was going to take a closer look at it and test it again


The tube passes into the brass base of the plug, there is an O-ring primary seal, then the tube is bonded to the brass plug with UV cure adhesive that forms a backup secondary seal. Like I said...it is really hard for these things to get a leak.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It was installed in the top of the res. I really just can't figure out how the fluid ended up on top the res. Im thinking maybe once it was up there maybe it found its way inside?? But yeah, im at a loss as to how it even got there in the first place, orings were all good and caps were sealed.
> 
> I still have the light i was going to take a closer look at it and test it again
> 
> 
> 
> The tube passes into the brass base of the plug, there is an O-ring primary seal, then the tube is bonded to the brass plug with UV cure adhesive that forms a backup secondary seal. Like I said...it is really hard for these things to get a leak.
Click to expand...

Looks like there's a crack in the tube close to the fitting. The other light plug doesn't have anything like that and it was fine.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Looks like there's a crack in the tube close to the fitting. The other light plug doesn't have anything like that and it was fine.


I can't really see it in the picture (not your fault). If I pay for the shipping would you mind sending that to me?

The tube is polycarbonate which is very strong and crack resistant--like take a meter length of the tube and beat somebody half to death with it strong.

***EDIT***

I just reread your post and thought maybe you were using the term crack more like a gap--as in a gap between the tube and the brass fitting?

If so, there is a small gap because a little way into the base of the fitting there is an O-ring that creates a seal on the side of the tube. After that O-ring (farther into the fitting) the tube is bonded in with UV cured adhesive to hold the tube in place and also to create a secondary seal.

.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Looks like there's a crack in the tube close to the fitting. The other light plug doesn't have anything like that and it was fine.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't really see it in the picture (not your fault). If I pay for the shipping would you mind sending that to me?
> 
> The tube is polycarbonate which is very strong and crack resistant--like take a meter length of the tube and beat somebody half to death with it strong.
> 
> ***EDIT***
> 
> I just reread your post and thought maybe you were using the term crack more like a gap--as in a gap between the tube and the brass fitting?
> 
> If so, there is a small gap because a little way into the base of the fitting there is an O-ring that creates a seal on the side of the tube. After that O-ring (farther into the fitting) the tube is bonded in with UV cured adhesive to hold the tube in place and also to create a secondary seal.
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Ok, it's definitely not a crack...it's aurora booster residue lol














I just couldn't get to it without a needle. I'll have another look at it this weekend to see if it actually is leaking. Even if it does leak that doesn't explain how the coolant overflowed above the res...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Ok, it's definitely not a crack...it's aurora booster residue lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't get to it without a needle. I'll have another look at it this weekend to see if it actually is leaking. Even if it does leak that doesn't explain how the coolant overflowed above the res...


I am not saying it didn't leak--hope it did not come across that way--just that it is one of those "head scratchers".


----------



## DocShay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The best bet is using the supplied wrench on the compression ring, and a hex wrench on the base. Less risk of hurting the finish that way. Any hardware store or Home Depot will have the hex wrench. If you look at the base of the fitting from the bottom you will see where the hex wrench fits.
> 
> Option two is to take a short length of scrap tube--about 10mm long--and slice it open so it is no longer a ring. Fit it onto the threads on the bottom of the fitting and use a pair of adjustable pliers--link below so you know the type I mean. Use the larger setting on the pliers and put them onto the tube covered part of the fitting in the round pipe section of the jaws, and the supplied fitting wrench on the compression ring. The soft tube will get damaged but with a little care, the threads on the bottom of the fitting will be fine.
> 
> Remember...lefty Lucy, rightie tighty =)
> 
> http://toolguyd.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Tekton-USA-Slip-Joint-Pliers.jpg


What size hex wrench is it? I tried sever sets at the hardware store and none would fit properly 8mm was to small, 10mm too big and they didnt carry a 9mm. I tried the imperial ones as well with no luck.
Ended up trying 8mm with painters tape wrapped. Didnt work very well. Also tried holding the cube....and the entire fitting jusr spun.

....wrench didnt hold in very well either. I suck at this. I think i'll just cut my losses on this single fitting lol the frusturation is real.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> What size hex wrench is it? I tried sever sets at the hardware store and none would fit properly 8mm was to small, 10mm too big and they didnt carry a 9mm. I tried the imperial ones as well with no luck.
> Ended up trying 8mm with painters tape wrapped. Didnt work very well. Also tried holding the cube....and the entire fitting jusr spun.
> 
> ....wrench didnt hold in very well either. I suck at this. I think i'll just cut my losses on this single fitting lol the frusturation is real.


There is one other possibility. When you put the compression ring on there was something "foreign" tagging along for the ride--a couple of stray tube chips from cutting or something similar. The friction from tightening the compression ring caused the debris to soften and wedge into the threads and now it is acting like a thread locker.

I feel your pain man, and you certainly gave it a good effort, so just send me your info via PM and I will see if I have one in the shop I can send out as a replacement for you


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Ok, it's definitely not a crack...it's aurora booster residue lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just couldn't get to it without a needle. I'll have another look at it this weekend to see if it actually is leaking. Even if it does leak that doesn't explain how the coolant overflowed above the res...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not saying it didn't leak--hope it did not come across that way--just that it is one of those "head scratchers".
Click to expand...

Not at all







I'm thinking maybe someone tried to move my system and was rough with it, but nobody is fessing up to it...I'll test the tube in the morning to see if its leaking and let you know.


----------



## Revan654

Any Chance we will ever see a Glass version of the tube? Only reason I'm asking is current tube is very easy to scratch up. I had my two 300 Res sitting in the corner and still somehow they got scratched up.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Anyone ever used a "different" method to mount a 200mm monsoon res? The back of my case is lined with 1/2 in white plexi.. Also is there a way to make a "hard" screw hole template for the small 1in res standoffs? Maybe out of then plexi or something? I bought my res about a year ago but not wanting to drill my case with several "misses" haven't installed it yet. Using 100mm EK for now but I'm getting massive bubbles when the pump ramps up and some are being sucked out the bottom back into the loop. Need to get my Monsoon up and running to prevent this but 200mm is a long distance to get two sets of 1inch wide screw holes aligned perfectly. I would like to see a mounting system where you had two holes in the case but one screw from the mount to the res, it would eliminate ALOT of guesswork or maybe have the two bolts tighten down to the res but at the case side of the standoff have one threaded hole in the middle of the standoff. Getting 4 holes perfect is near impossible IMHO. Basically what I'm saying is that if the top two screw holes are out of level just a tiny bit you will be way off 200mm away. Using one screw hole would allow the res to be aligned up much, much easier. The way it is it's way too difficult to get perfect IMHO. Any alternate mounting ideas.


----------



## DocShay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Anyone ever used a "different" method to mount a 200mm monsoon res? The back of my case is lined with 1/2 in white plexi.. Also is there a way to make a "hard" screw hole template for the small 1in res standoffs? Maybe out of then plexi or something? I bought my res about a year ago but not wanting to drill my case with several "misses" haven't installed it yet. Using 100mm EK for now but I'm getting massive bubbles when the pump ramps up and some are being sucked out the bottom back into the loop. Need to get my Monsoon up and running to prevent this but 200mm is a long distance to get two sets of 1inch wide screw holes aligned perfectly. I would like to see a mounting system where you had two holes in the case but one screw from the mount to the res, it would eliminate ALOT of guesswork or maybe have the two bolts tighten down to the res but at the case side of the standoff have one threaded hole in the middle of the standoff. Getting 4 holes perfect is near impossible IMHO. Basically what I'm saying is that if the top two screw holes are out of level just a tiny bit you will be way off 200mm away. Using one screw hole would allow the res to be aligned up much, much easier. The way it is it's way too difficult to get perfect IMHO. Any alternate mounting ideas.


What I did for mine was use the plastic template to mark the bottom holes - then on the resevoir itself measure the distanxe from the bottom cap holes to the top cap holes. Then use a ruler or straight edge to mark the top end cap holes on the case from where the bottom end cap holes are already marked (from the template). Measure a few times. Mark and drill once.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> So I made a dumb mistake - I tightened my new monsoon economy fitting compression piece way to tight over the other part of the fitting. When I went to take it off, the entire fitting came off - How do I go about separating them so I can use it again? (Also, even being that tight - It still leaked. ***. I *think* I made a bend too close inside the fitting, thats the only thing I can think of)
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have two of the monsoon spanners? Insert one into the fitting and use the other to unscrew the cover.
Click to expand...

This is what I meant by using two monsoon spanners ...


----------



## Ceadderman

I have found the the spanner will slip out of the grooves if too much force is applied. It's a decent enough tool, but slips can scratches. That's why I recommend Allen key and painters tape method.









~Ceadder


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Where would I get this plastic template?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any Chance we will ever see a Glass version of the tube? Only reason I'm asking is current tube is very easy to scratch up. I had my two 300 Res sitting in the corner and still somehow they got scratched up.


Possibly at some point. In the meantime, the acrylic tube is very easy to polish--you can buff out scratches without a lot of effort.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Anyone ever used a "different" method to mount a 200mm monsoon res? The back of my case is lined with 1/2 in white plexi.. Also is there a way to make a "hard" screw hole template for the small 1in res standoffs? Maybe out of then plexi or something? I bought my res about a year ago but not wanting to drill my case with several "misses" haven't installed it yet. Using 100mm EK for now but I'm getting massive bubbles when the pump ramps up and some are being sucked out the bottom back into the loop. Need to get my Monsoon up and running to prevent this but 200mm is a long distance to get two sets of 1inch wide screw holes aligned perfectly. I would like to see a mounting system where you had two holes in the case but one screw from the mount to the res, it would eliminate ALOT of guesswork or maybe have the two bolts tighten down to the res but at the case side of the standoff have one threaded hole in the middle of the standoff. Getting 4 holes perfect is near impossible IMHO. Basically what I'm saying is that if the top two screw holes are out of level just a tiny bit you will be way off 200mm away. Using one screw hole would allow the res to be aligned up much, much easier. The way it is it's way too difficult to get perfect IMHO. Any alternate mounting ideas.


It is possible you are making it harder than it needs to be.

Once you have your reservoir assembled, measure the distance between the screws center to center. The left-to-right dimension will be 26mm and the up-and-down number will be something like 224mm (assuming a 200mm tube--but double check this). On the back side of your panel put a few strips of blue painters tape in the general area the mounts will be located so you have a surface you can mark on. You can then use a ruler and pen to mark where you will drill your holes.

If you miss one of the holes by a tiny bit, it is usually not a problem as you can use the drill bit to make the hole a bit "ovular" and the mounts and load spreader bars will cover over fine.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Possibly at some point. In the meantime, the acrylic tube is very easy to polish--you can buff out scratches without a lot of effort.


would a plastic polish like plastix work good for this...I've used it for years to repair cds and plexiglass but was wondering if it would effect the acrylic negatively


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Where would I get this plastic template?


I think he assumed you were using the vertical mount or the low profile grasshopper mount as both of those include a mounting template because they are "fixed". The standard mounts do not include a template because there are hundreds of possible configurations and because the hole pattern is a simple rectangle and the holes are easily measured and located.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfknjadagr8*
> 
> would a plastic polish like plastix work good for this...I've used it for years to repair cds and plexiglass but was wondering if it would effect the acrylic negatively


It should be. Read the label and make sure it says safe for acrylic.

use jewelers rouge type polishing bars.

https://www.amazon.com/All-Purpose-Jewelers-Metal-Polishing-Compound/dp/B0195DYU3A/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1480804300&sr=1-14&keywords=plastic%2Bpolishing%2Brouge&th=1


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

I'm using this mount.. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=monsoon+reservoir+mounting

Very difficult to line up on a 200. Wish I had a template.. Anybody got any ideas on a mock up template? Anybody else ever mounted a 200 on the back wall?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> I'm using this mount.. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=monsoon+reservoir+mounting
> 
> Very difficult to line up on a 200. Wish I had a template.. Anybody got any ideas on a mock up template? Anybody else ever mounted a 200 on the back wall?


I guess I am not clear on which part you are having trouble with if my earlier post didn't cover it...this really is not all that hard.


----------



## rathar3

Hey Gene how do you feel about air testing. I am going to hardline my system with your hardline tubes and hardlock fittings. I found a kit that has a low psi/bar gauge and a hard air pump.

I think it would be safer than water testing as long as i didn't go nuts on the pressure.

What pressure would you think was best.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene how do you feel about air testing. I am going to hardline my system with your hardline tubes and hardlock fittings. I found a kit that has a low psi/bar gauge and a hard air pump.
> 
> I think it would be safer than water testing as long as i didn't go nuts on the pressure.
> 
> What pressure would you think was best.


You can if you like. I prefer water as it is easier. Just use about 20 paper towels wadded up and placed in various location in the case to catch any leaks.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Finally, my MMRS arrived and assembled


----------



## MadMabb

Nice! Is that the black chrome finish?


----------



## Ceadderman

Yes that is the Black Chrome finish.

That top could use a rotation however. The standoff mounts on it are out of alignment with the Pump top.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

Hey Gene question for you. i am going with the EV2 instead of the hardlock fittings. I was going to get 2 Monsoon Hardline Lock Collar Conversion Kit - 5/8" OD (16mm) and use them for my setup for height on my build so i dont have to figure our the length needed for the tube to go down inside the ev2 fitting. will this work for that?


----------



## rathar3

Hey Gene question for you. i am going with the EV2 instead of the hardlock fittings. I was going to get 2 Monsoon Hardline Lock Collar Conversion Kit - 5/8" OD (16mm) and use them for my setup for height on my build so i dont have to figure our the length needed for the tube to go down inside the ev2 fitting. will this work for that?


----------



## ruffhi

I've finally got around to running hardlines to and from my CPU block.

Monsoon green 3/8" x 1/2" acrylic
Monsoon EV2 matte black 3/8" x 1/2" fittings


















More info in my build log.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene question for you. i am going with the EV2 instead of the hardlock fittings. I was going to get 2 Monsoon Hardline Lock Collar Conversion Kit - 5/8" OD (16mm) and use them for my setup for height on my build so i dont have to figure our the length needed for the tube to go down inside the ev2 fitting. will this work for that?


No.


----------



## AllGamer

+1









that looks really nice with your build, way better than the soft tubes you had originally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've finally got around to running hardlines to and from my CPU block.
> 
> Monsoon green 3/8" x 1/2" acrylic
> Monsoon EV2 matte black 3/8" x 1/2" fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More info in my build log.


----------



## picklz

@BoxGods, I imagine I know the answer to this already - but I'm curious if their is any possibility of getting some of the MMRS parts in orange? If that's not something any of the re-sellers can / will order I'd be interested in chatting about a minimum order if I were to do something direct (if that's something you would entertain). Awesome work you've done I really appreciate the work you've put in to help further this hobby and absolutely love the MMRS.


----------



## Lionheart1980

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MadMabb*
> 
> Nice! Is that the black chrome finish?


Yep, it's the black chrome finish


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *picklz*
> 
> @BoxGods, I imagine I know the answer to this already - but I'm curious if their is any possibility of getting some of the MMRS parts in orange? If that's not something any of the re-sellers can / will order I'd be interested in chatting about a minimum order if I were to do something direct (if that's something you would entertain). Awesome work you've done I really appreciate the work you've put in to help further this hobby and absolutely love the MMRS.


Orange is sort of my personal windmill









The problem with doing a direct order is you are looking at a lot of different parts--four sizes and styles of fittings, three sizes and two styles of rotaries, motor mounting tubes, six lengths of tension rods, four styles of plugs, all the screws, etc. and if you don't do it all, there will be people who do this:

"Crap, they don't have the rotaries I need in orange...I guess I will go with red instead".


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lionheart1980*
> 
> Finally, my MMRS arrived and assembled


That looks sweet!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've finally got around to running hardlines to and from my CPU block.
> 
> Monsoon green 3/8" x 1/2" acrylic
> Monsoon EV2 matte black 3/8" x 1/2" fittings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More info in my build log.


AND, that looks sweeter!!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene how do you feel about air testing. I am going to hardline my system with your hardline tubes and hardlock fittings. I found a kit that has a low psi/bar gauge and a hard air pump.
> 
> I think it would be safer than water testing as long as i didn't go nuts on the pressure.
> 
> What pressure would you think was best.


I tested mine with 4 psi. There was a good article on hardline fittings and their tested psi "hold" amount. The 13mm and 1/2 inch did the best, with some reaching over 20 psi before blowout. The test was conducted on glass but you'll get the idea of what pressure they can take. Page 3. http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/3/


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> I tested mine with 4 psi. There was a good article on hardline fittings and their tested psi "hold" amount. The 13mm and 1/2 inch did the best, with some reaching over 20 psi before blowout. The test was conducted on glass but you'll get the idea of what pressure they can take. Page 3. http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/10/20/mayhems-borosilicate-glass-tube-review/3/


Glad you found it useful









f_f


----------



## DocShay

Where can i find some documentation on the EV2 fittings?
Nothing listed on monsoons website, and i cant find the "size card" that came with my fittings. I recall i need the purple bag - i understand i put 2 rubber o rings inside the fitting, then the plastic flange on the tube before inserting.

Is the clear bag for the oring on the g1/4 threading only?


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Where can i find some documentation on the EV2 fittings?
> Nothing listed on monsoons website, and i cant find the "size card" that came with my fittings. I recall i need the purple bag - i understand i put 2 rubber o rings inside the fitting, then the plastic flange on the tube before inserting.


There is a PDF attached to the EV2 listing at performance pc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> Is the clear bag for the oring on the g1/4 threading only?


Yes.


----------



## TOOLP

Some of you will have seen it already but for those who did not. Here is a video from JayzTwoCents about the EV2s.


----------



## Revan654

I'm just having bad luck with MonSoon products. Another tube cape has been stripped, The threads are stripped.


----------



## ruffhi

Pics of my etched fittings ...


















































Edit: I meant to mention that the etching option at PPCs has gone (404!). What is that about?


----------



## R-o-D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Pics of my etched fittings ...
> 
> Edit: I meant to mention that the etching option at PPCs has gone (404!). What is that about?


Those came out nice! Hard to photograph though.


----------



## BoxGods

One of the coolest designs so far IMO.

We have discontinued the custom etch option because people keep submitting artwork as jpeg or some other non-vector based format. Just burns too much of my time explaining over and over why it needs to be in a vector format for the laser. I thought making the template file with clear instructions would make it super simple for people...but nope =(


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> One of the coolest designs so far IMO.


Thx BoxGods.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> We have discontinued the custom etch option because people keep submitting artwork as jpeg or some other non-vector based format. Just burns too much of my time explaining over and over why it needs to be in a vector format for the laser. I thought making the template file with clear instructions would make it super simple for people...but nope =(


So ... is there a market for taking people's jpegs and converting them to vector?


----------



## CrazyCreator

The "Monsoon Chain Gun Hardline Compression Fittings" are EOL?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Thx BoxGods.
> So ... is there a market for taking people's jpegs and converting them to vector?[/quote
> 
> Maybe for somebody better in illustrator than I am.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> The "Monsoon Chain Gun Hardline Compression Fittings" are EOL?


No. Who told you that?


----------



## rathar3

Performance PC order came today. Got everything to hardline my pc including the 1/2x5/8 monsoon bending kit and heat gun (got them a few weeks ago).

Watched all of Gene's videos so hope it all goes well. Ordered enough tubing to do my system 2and a half times just in case and went with the EV2's in purple and they look sweet


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> 
> 
> Performance PC order came today. Got everything to hardline my pc including the 1/2x5/8 monsoon bending kit and heat gun (got them a few weeks ago).
> 
> Watched all of Gene's videos so hope it all goes well. Ordered enough tubing to do my system 2and a half times just in case and went with the EV2's in purple and they look sweet


Just remember to enjoy yourself and you will be fine. You already figured out the best "tip or trick" I ever have to offer. Buy extra tube. You WILL screw up once or twice but also as you start running legs of the loop and seeing them installed it never fails that inspiration strikes and you end up changing stuff.


----------



## AllGamer

@BoxGods

Any suggestion for an alternative mount options for this?

I'm toying with the idea of hanging it upside down, but the vertical mount are kind of a bit too long when not mounted Upright.
(ignore the cardboards boxes they are there to keep them in place while I eyeball the area to drill holes)



but from the front it looks fine they are "centered" (vertically)



I was contemplating the radiator mounts recently released, but they too are not very compatible with what I'm tryig to do.

I'm open to suggestion, it doesn't need to be hanging, I contemplated having them Upright, which still keeps them in the same centered (vertically) position.
Another option was to have them one in front of the other, so the 2nd MMRS will not be visible unless you look at it from the side window.

Anyway, just checking to see if there's another type of mount available to try something different.

The front 240mm area will be for a Radiator, and 2 D5 pumps behind each Fan/Rad space.

hmm... Perhaps put one MMRS Res hanging, and another MMRS laying down on the "floor" then I cause one of those new 120mm MMRS mount, since I got many of those 120mm free on the floor.


----------



## Deedaz

Why not hang it with the FDP you're already using?


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> No. Who told you that?


that was only one thought a fear of me


----------



## rathar3

I think i got a work around for the 150mm lights being to short in the 100 and 50 mm res with the connector. Ordered 2 200mm lights with a total length of 208mm i got 2 15mm extensions and the lights fit in them this should keep them around 7 mm from the pump housing . Will see when i drain the system in a few days.


----------



## tintreach

1: It took me 2 days to read this thread from start to finish.
2: My head is now exploded with more ideas than I originally had
3: I think I need to get some parts ASAP
4: I haven't seen any pics of the light fittings in use anywhere!!


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> 4: I haven't seen any pics of the light fittings in use anywhere!!


which light fitting?

this type?
(the ones screwed into the G1/4 are light fittings or you can call them light plugs)


----------



## tintreach

actually any of them.....what do they look like light up in the tubes ans and rezs? I've seen the fittings all over, just not lit up


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> actually any of them.....what do they look like light up in the tubes ans and rezs? I've seen the fittings all over, just not lit up


check this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1610888/does-anyone-know-if-there-is-a-led-strip-submersible-like-a-cathode-tube/0_50#post_25509910

I was asking for similar questions back then.


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> check this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1610888/does-anyone-know-if-there-is-a-led-strip-submersible-like-a-cathode-tube/0_50#post_25509910
> 
> I was asking for similar questions back then.


Thanks, I'm really trying hard not to go with the Thermaltake RGB fittings cause I'm pretty sure I would have to use their junk tubing to make sure it all fit right. Nanoxia has some but they're not RGB which I need for the software I am going to be using on this build. I know the Monsoon stuff will work if I just change out the LED's just was trying to get a baseline on the illumination. That dude should have posted a pic of them in the dark or dimly light room. I have a feeling the PETG will carry light much better than soft tubing too.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Thanks, I'm really trying hard not to go with the Thermaltake RGB fittings cause I'm pretty sure I would have to use their junk tubing to make sure it all fit right. Nanoxia has some but they're not RGB which I need for the software I am going to be using on this build. I know the Monsoon stuff will work if I just change out the LED's just was trying to get a baseline on the illumination. That dude should have posted a pic of them in the dark or dimly light room. I have a feeling the PETG will carry light much better than soft tubing too.


in regards to the illumination part.

the Lighting method in the Monsoon fitting is through the liquid, you will get better effect with Pastel type,
the light is not really really carried by the tube itself.

the TT method, uses the tube as fiber optics, the light travels in between the walls of the ID / OD
to use those fittings it only works with 16mm OD PETG or Acrylics tubes.

both types have their Pros and Cons, depending how you plan to use them.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> 1: It took me 2 days to read this thread from start to finish.
> 2: My head is now exploded with more ideas than I originally had
> 3: I think I need to get some parts ASAP
> 4: I haven't seen any pics of the light fittings in use anywhere!!


Here's a couple pics of mine using UV cathode plugs with the green reactor core tube and mayhems uv green coolant.


----------



## DocShay

Not quite done yet - but figured im chime in on a few things. Keep in mind this is my first adventure with watercooling - let along rigid. Finished a quick leak test, now just running blitz kit part 2 before tiding stuff more and putting in the final coolant.

- These Monsoon Economy EV2 fittings feel very solid. Once you grasp how they work, man these things fit TIGHT. I did have one leak one me during the test - i beleive my wimpy arms got tired and didnt fully push the tube in past both rubber seals. Fixed that quickly, i cant see these ever leaking. My only wish is that monsoon added an FAQ on their own website how to use these. Found the info on performance pcs after a bit if work.

- The MMRS resevoir system was nice to work with. Having the ability to change positions of inlet/outlets - height of things, etc made it a lot easier to "fit as big as res as possible ina very narrow case". Everything is solid. I did manage to strip the plastic mounting threads on the base very easily - fixed it by using a longer screw that could go in abit deeper. My only thoughts are i wish more companies would put metal inserts instead of plastic threading - id happily pay extra.

Anyway, i'll post a few more pictures when complete! Go easy on me...first time and all!


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> No. Who told you that?


BoxGods - This post reminded me to ask you two questions:

#1 When are you going to update your website to include all of the products you offer? Currently if a customer wants to see what you make we have to search retail sites like Performance-pcs. Personally I plan on using a lot of your stuff on my next build but had to search the heck out of this thread to find out what you make.

#2 Have you ever thought about making a "Virtual Reservoir Configurator" on your site that shows what a completed configuration will look like, what are all of the parts needed and its total length? You could even allow for different color backgrounds to "Simulate" case interior color. I only ask this because I think I am going to be doing a "Superman Theme" build next year with a Caselabs S8 and cant decide if I want Blue Res. Tube with Red tension rods or the other way around and what color to make the pump color. Being able to see it might help people make up their minds with things like that.

Suggestion for what I mean by this from another industry forum: Check out ar15.com and you will find a tab that says "Build Your Dream Rifle". It takes you to a web based configurator called "Gunstruction".

Otherwise I love your stuff. Keep up the great work!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> @BoxGods
> 
> Any suggestion for an alternative mount options for this?
> 
> I'm toying with the idea of hanging it upside down, but the vertical mount are kind of a bit too long when not mounted Upright.
> (ignore the cardboards boxes they are there to keep them in place while I eyeball the area to drill holes)
> 
> but from the front it looks fine they are "centered" (vertically)
> 
> I was contemplating the radiator mounts recently released, but they too are not very compatible with what I'm tryig to do.
> 
> I'm open to suggestion, it doesn't need to be hanging, I contemplated having them Upright, which still keeps them in the same centered (vertically) position.
> Another option was to have them one in front of the other, so the 2nd MMRS will not be visible unless you look at it from the side window.
> 
> Anyway, just checking to see if there's another type of mount available to try something different.
> 
> The front 240mm area will be for a Radiator, and 2 D5 pumps behind each Fan/Rad space.
> 
> hmm... Perhaps put one MMRS Res hanging, and another MMRS laying down on the "floor" then I cause one of those new 120mm MMRS mount, since I got many of those 120mm free on the floor.


How about using the standard 25mm mounts and running the FDP's out the back of the case? That way you can still keep the two reservoirs side by side (which looks pretty cool BTW). Run them along the bottom of the case with the FDP caps on the back--that way they are also functional as a bonus. You have a ton of room down there anyway.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Not quite done yet - but figured im chime in on a few things. Keep in mind this is my first adventure with watercooling - let along rigid. Finished a quick leak test, now just running blitz kit part 2 before tiding stuff more and putting in the final coolant.
> 
> - These Monsoon Economy EV2 fittings feel very solid. Once you grasp how they work, man these things fit TIGHT. I did have one leak one me during the test - i beleive my wimpy arms got tired and didnt fully push the tube in past both rubber seals. Fixed that quickly, i cant see these ever leaking. My only wish is that monsoon added an FAQ on their own website how to use these. Found the info on performance pcs after a bit if work.
> 
> - The MMRS resevoir system was nice to work with. Having the ability to change positions of inlet/outlets - height of things, etc made it a lot easier to "fit as big as res as possible ina very narrow case". Everything is solid. I did manage to strip the plastic mounting threads on the base very easily - fixed it by using a longer screw that could go in abit deeper. My only thoughts are i wish more companies would put metal inserts instead of plastic threading - id happily pay extra.
> 
> Anyway, i'll post a few more pictures when complete! Go easy on me...first time and all!


When the build looks that nice you don't get to ask people to "go easy on you" first build or not =)

Excellent work man.

I also really like the metal thread inserts and we normally use them. I didn't in this case because of the three position mounting--they would REALLY show and look kind of bleh.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> BoxGods - This post reminded me to ask you two questions:
> 
> #1 When are you going to update your website to include all of the products you offer? Currently if a customer wants to see what you make we have to search retail sites like Performance-pcs. Personally I plan on using a lot of your stuff on my next build but had to search the heck out of this thread to find out what you make.
> 
> #2 Have you ever thought about making a "Virtual Reservoir Configurator" on your site that shows what a completed configuration will look like, what are all of the parts needed and its total length? You could even allow for different color backgrounds to "Simulate" case interior color. I only ask this because I think I am going to be doing a "Superman Theme" build next year with a Caselabs S8 and cant decide if I want Blue Res. Tube with Red tension rods or the other way around and what color to make the pump color. Being able to see it might help people make up their minds with things like that.
> 
> Suggestion for what I mean by this from another industry forum: Check out ar15.com and you will find a tab that says "Build Your Dream Rifle". It takes you to a web based configurator called "Gunstruction".
> 
> Otherwise I love your stuff. Keep up the great work!


To be candid...the website will likely never be 100% up to date. We are a TINY company--literally two couples, (think Mom and Pop X 2) and we all wear several hats. Updating the site is always on my to-do list but there are always several items above it that are more important. The same with a configurator. I have had one in mind from day one but it is just beyond my abilities to do myself or to pay to be professionally done. That is why most all of the parts are available as sketchup models =)


----------



## DocShay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> When the build looks that nice you don't get to ask people to "go easy on you" first build or not =)
> 
> Excellent work man.
> 
> I also really like the metal thread inserts and we normally use them. I didn't in this case because of the three position mounting--they would REALLY show and look kind of bleh.


Fair enough! Thanks for the explanation!

Anyway, heres the final product! Thanks monsoon for the great products!


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> One of the coolest designs so far IMO.
> 
> We have discontinued the custom etch option because people keep submitting artwork as jpeg or some other non-vector based format. Just burns too much of my time explaining over and over why it needs to be in a vector format for the laser. I thought making the template file with clear instructions would make it super simple for people...but nope =(


Seriously?? That sucks, I haven't even had a chance to get mine yet! But I see it is still available on PPCS site...?

When my customers submit the incorrect information we just automatically kick it back and ask them to do it again the correct way. No reason to punish the folks that CAN understand because of the ones that can't, imo.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> One of the coolest designs so far IMO.
> 
> We have discontinued the custom etch option because people keep submitting artwork as jpeg or some other non-vector based format. Just burns too much of my time explaining over and over why it needs to be in a vector format for the laser. I thought making the template file with clear instructions would make it super simple for people...but nope =(
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously?? That sucks, I haven't even had a chance to get mine yet! But I see it is still available on PPCS site...?
> 
> When my customers submit the incorrect information we just automatically kick it back and ask them to do it again the correct way. No reason to punish the folks that CAN understand because of the ones that can't, imo.
Click to expand...

I think the biggest issue is that people just don't understand how the vector file is different from anything else. You gotta make it happen for the jayztwocents terry crews build though







That's going to be amazing!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Seriously?? That sucks, I haven't even had a chance to get mine yet! But I see it is still available on PPCS site...?
> 
> When my customers submit the incorrect information we just automatically kick it back and ask them to do it again the correct way. No reason to punish the folks that CAN understand because of the ones that can't, imo.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think the biggest issue is that people just don't understand how the vector file is different from anything else. You gotta make it happen for the jayztwocents terry crews build though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's going to be amazing!


Performance wants to continue offering it and has added an artwork option for those having trouble. One of their guys who is really good in Illustrator will do the art for you for a fee if you need help. I also found a really good explanation of the difference between a typical raster (like .jpg) file and a vector file. Now when I get a customer who sends the incorrect file type I can just send them a link to that description and a link to get help with their artwork.

Hopefully, it will cut back on all the time draining parts of the process for me.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Fair enough! Thanks for the explanation!
> 
> Anyway, heres the final product! Thanks monsoon for the great products!


Looks awesome and such a CLEAN build


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> One of the coolest designs so far IMO.
> 
> We have discontinued the custom etch option because people keep submitting artwork as jpeg or some other non-vector based format. Just burns too much of my time explaining over and over why it needs to be in a vector format for the laser. I thought making the template file with clear instructions would make it super simple for people...but nope =(
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously?? That sucks, I haven't even had a chance to get mine yet! But I see it is still available on PPCS site...?
> 
> When my customers submit the incorrect information we just automatically kick it back and ask them to do it again the correct way. No reason to punish the folks that CAN understand because of the ones that can't, imo.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Seriously?? That sucks, I haven't even had a chance to get mine yet! But I see it is still available on PPCS site...?
> 
> When my customers submit the incorrect information we just automatically kick it back and ask them to do it again the correct way. No reason to punish the folks that CAN understand because of the ones that can't, imo.
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think the biggest issue is that people just don't understand how the vector file is different from anything else. You gotta make it happen for the jayztwocents terry crews build though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's going to be amazing!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Performance wants to continue offering it and has added an artwork option for those having trouble. One of their guys who is really good in Illustrator will do the art for you for a fee if you need help. I also found a really good explanation of the difference between a typical raster (like .jpg) file and a vector file. Now when I get a customer who sends the incorrect file type I can just send them a link to that description and a link to get help with their artwork.
> 
> Hopefully, it will cut back on all the time draining parts of the process for me.
Click to expand...

Both options are excellent. I bout had a stroke when you mentioned there was to be no more laser etching service.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

1. Anyone know the exact size in mm of the 250 Tube and 300 tube. I know other companies tubes are about 213mm for their 250mm res.
2. For the mounting, What type of screws are used?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 1. Anyone know the exact size in mm of the 250 Tube and 300 tube. I know other companies tubes are about 213mm for their 250mm res.
> 2. For the mounting, What type of screws are used?


Reservoir tubes are nominal--meaning the specified length is how much the tube will add to the total reservoir length. For example, the 250mm tube is actually 256mm long but 3mm on each end recesses into the end caps so it only adds 256mm to the reservoirs total length.

Mounting screws are M4 Socket Head Cap screws and the M4 wrench is included.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> For example, the 250mm tube is actually 256mm long but 3mm on each end recesses into the end caps so it only adds 250mm to the reservoirs total length.


Fixed that for you. The remaning 6mm are inside the top and bottom caps (3mm each end respectively). So to find total res lenght add the tube length and the thickness of the end caps


----------



## rathar3

Wow after 5 days 2 4 packs of tube i finally got my system leak free for now YAY. I did the measurement on the card and the tube i checked was right on the red/white. And that was the only frikking one.
The other 7 all hit lower into the white after changing every o-ring in my fittings its working. After looking at the tube up close it was kinda deformed. I think its all my fault thoe as i have old steam heat in this place and when i got the stuff i set the tube i checked in a corner near a steam supply line BLEH stupid.

Later i did a recheck and it was higher on the red so i used the red pack and it leaked. remade all tubes 3 times and still leaked. Lucky for me a friend is a mechanic that works on hydraulic systems.
I feel the fittings were kinda loose but he checked them said they were too loose to seal good and i changed them to the white pack and its working now : )

BLEH BLEH BLEH stupid thing to do Never put PEGT near a hot steam supply line

Gene he loved your bending kit. He used up a lot of scraps bending stuff and having a good time with it. It worked fine with no issues other than the operator. Doing my leak test right now it my not be perfect but its my first hard line.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> One of the coolest designs so far IMO.
> 
> We have discontinued the custom etch option because people keep submitting artwork as jpeg or some other non-vector based format. Just burns too much of my time explaining over and over why it needs to be in a vector format for the laser. I thought making the template file with clear instructions would make it super simple for people...but nope =(


i am super bumbed, waiting for ryzen to drop and thinking about my logo ( leaning toward amd logos ) and wow i almost cried :/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> One of the coolest designs so far IMO.
> 
> We have discontinued the custom etch option because people keep submitting artwork as jpeg or some other non-vector based format. Just burns too much of my time explaining over and over why it needs to be in a vector format for the laser. I thought making the template file with clear instructions would make it super simple for people...but nope =(
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously?? That sucks, I haven't even had a chance to get mine yet! But I see it is still available on PPCS site...?
> 
> When my customers submit the incorrect information we just automatically kick it back and ask them to do it again the correct way. No reason to punish the folks that CAN understand because of the ones that can't, imo.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Seriously?? That sucks, I haven't even had a chance to get mine yet! But I see it is still available on PPCS site...?
> 
> When my customers submit the incorrect information we just automatically kick it back and ask them to do it again the correct way. No reason to punish the folks that CAN understand because of the ones that can't, imo.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think the biggest issue is that people just don't understand how the vector file is different from anything else. You gotta make it happen for the jayztwocents terry crews build though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's going to be amazing!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Performance wants to continue offering it and has added an artwork option for those having trouble. One of their guys who is really good in Illustrator will do the art for you for a fee if you need help. I also found a really good explanation of the difference between a typical raster (like .jpg) file and a vector file. Now when I get a customer who sends the incorrect file type I can just send them a link to that description and a link to get help with their artwork.
> 
> Hopefully, it will cut back on all the time draining parts of the process for me.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Both options are excellent. I bout had a stroke when you mentioned there was to be no more laser etching service.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

me 2


----------



## rathar3

This is it done 

Got a few more cables to sleeve and few things left to do. It got wet so waiting 2 days for it to dry


----------



## rathar3

Here are some pics of it finished with different lighting







Res lighting is the monsoon uv black light one in the res overhead lighting is cable mods dual led uv and rgb. Using primochill uv purple dye


----------



## fast_fate

Paired an MMRS Tube Res with a Koolance Bay-Res for *S*_alive_*8*


----------



## Ceadderman

Well that's different.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> This is it done
> 
> Got a few more cables to sleeve and few things left to do. It got wet so waiting 2 days for it to dry


Those bends look fine to me...


----------



## BoxGods

Sorry for not being around for a bit. Got home from four days at my Parents, fired up my workstation...it got as far as the desktop and then...poof. Drives bit the dust. I have been on the same workstation for SEVEN years...it feels really REALLY alien to me now. Nothing is where it is supposed to be.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Those bends look fine to me...


Bending was easy. took 3 days and a mechanic to figure out i used the wrong o rings. because i did something stupid bleh. I bend every tube 3 times at least because i left a tube get hot and deformed before i even started bending.

BUT its hi and dry : )


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Bending was easy. took 3 days and a mechanic to figure out i used the wrong o rings. because i did something stupid bleh. I bend every tube 3 times at least because i left a tube get hot and deformed before i even started bending.
> 
> BUT its hi and dry : )


We all make mistakes man. I once bent and built a beautiful round hinged hatch cover from acrylic sheet. Spent a week building the buck to bend the sheets over, glued it all together, rounded the corners etc. and then when I was going to paint the trim colors I wiped it all down with denatured alcohol as paint prep. Sounded like an ice tray cracking and in about 30 seconds all that work was in a hundred little pieces. Had to start all over. The second one came out even better =)


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We all make mistakes man. I once bent and built a beautiful round hinged hatch cover from acrylic sheet. Spent a week building the buck to bend the sheets over, glued it all together, rounded the corners etc. and then when I was going to paint the trim colors I wiped it all down with denatured alcohol as paint prep. Sounded like an ice tray cracking and in about 30 seconds all that work was in a hundred little pieces. Had to start all over. The second one came out even better =)


Well i got you beat. I tested one tube out of the first pack for size for the o rings. Then leaned it into a corner near a steam supply line for the radiators in my apt here. It sat close to the line for 4 days in 20 deg temps outside. Then i re tested it it seemed bigger but i went with it. Like a total idiot i never rechecked another one and used the red pack. After bending everything i put it together and it leaked everywhere. Re did all 3 lines and could not figure out why it was still leaking went thru 7 36 inch tubes. Called a friend who's a mechanic and he came looked and told me i was using the wrong o rings.

I got the last tube and showed him and DUH it was in the white and not totally in the red remeasured all the tubes i bent and long behold all in the white/red more so in the white than red. So after feeling really stupid Greg started bending all my scrap tube like a pro and made me fell pretty stupid.

And i like morals and the moral of this story is IF ALL ELSE FAILS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS !!!!!! also keep PETG tubing away from heat pipes filled with steam !!!!


----------



## BoxGods

That is really kind of weird because usually the "incorrect" O-rings would still seal. Most of the advantage in using the sizing template is in the tube holding power of the plastic ferrule. A perfectly sized O-ring would only be critical if the tube ends were fairly out of round and causing uneven pressure mapping.

At any rate, I am glad you got it all sorted out =)


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That is really kind of weird because usually the "incorrect" O-rings would still seal. Most of the advantage in using the sizing template is in the tube holding power of the plastic ferrule. A perfectly sized O-ring would only be critical if the tube ends were fairly out of round and causing uneven pressure mapping.
> 
> At any rate, I am glad you got it all sorted out =)


some of the worse leaks were the 2 with bends that i did like a inch or 2 from the end others were not straight into the fittings.Also i might have over tightened the fittings when i put the base into the blocks res and rad. on the last bends i made sure everything was square and i replaced all the purple o rings with the black ones and just fingered tighten them. After changing all o rings making sure all the tubes were straight into the fittings no leaks.

I think most of this was operator error the first couple of bends were like um not real good but i rushed it and some were really tight to get in due to not being straight so i might have damaged the o rings and overdid the ones on the base. the ones that i had to bend close to the ends i just used a full length tube and just heated where i needed and it worked and kept the end from deforming.

I will do this again now that i figured it out. still feel kinda DUH but live and learn


----------



## coookiemunster

I won a contest put on by Performance PC's and Monsoon! I won 6 custom engraved Ev2 fittings! I chose Black Chrome and the RSI logo from Star Citizen!! Now to plan my next build!!







[/URL]


----------



## Mega Man

congrats !!!!!!


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> I won a contest put on by Performance PC's and Monsoon! I won 6 custom engraved Ev2 fittings! I chose Black Chrome and the RSI logo from Star Citizen!! Now to plan my next build!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


Grats : )


----------



## Ceadderman

First I ever heard of anyone planning a build around fittings. Nice.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> I won a contest put on by Performance PC's and Monsoon! I won 6 custom engraved Ev2 fittings! I chose Black Chrome and the RSI logo from Star Citizen!! Now to plan my next build!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


Those sure are a PITA to photograph aren't they? I suck at photography--tried to get a good picture of those for like 20 minutes then gave up. They look very cool in person but I just could not get a good picture of them no matter what I tried.


----------



## AllGamer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coookiemunster*
> 
> I won a contest put on by Performance PC's and Monsoon! I won 6 custom engraved Ev2 fittings! I chose Black Chrome and the RSI logo from Star Citizen!! Now to plan my next build!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


Congrats! and sweet!









another fellow SC fan here

Cheers!


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> congrats !!!!!!


Thanks!!


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AllGamer*
> 
> Congrats! and sweet!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> another fellow SC fan here
> 
> Cheers!


Thanks!! See ya in the verse!!


----------



## coookiemunster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Those sure are a PITA to photograph aren't they? I suck at photography--tried to get a good picture of those for like 20 minutes then gave up. They look very cool in person but I just could not get a good picture of them no matter what I tried.


Yes my crappy cell phone does not do any of your products justice!! also this site does not like to upload multiple pictures from a cell...








here are the rest of the pictures, the engraving is top notch and the fittings are absolutely the highest quality and best engineered fittings around (just like every other Monsoon product I have seen!!)
Thanks again!!!!


----------



## BoxGods

It is weird how you can quite often get better pictures with a cell phone than you can with a dedicated (and expensive) DSLR. My wife has a Nokia 950 XL and I am always amazed with the pictures she takes.


----------



## Fathardie

Just a new(, probable), sappy fan's first post... After reading the last 50 pages of this thread trying to find more info about the EV2 fittings, you guys and girls converted me. My wallet is crying over my first build, my girlfriend is weeping that she is unable to get me out of my silent-enthusiastic vegetative state; hunched over my laptop filling webshop carts & baskets. This state has been going on for about a month in which I have been reading all things watercooling. I am currently getting and still choosing parts for my first loop. I bought a single EK ACF (soft) & HDC (hard) fitting as a sample and I only liked the color. Those things had a very poor finish in my naïve and blatted opinion :O. A delicate ribbled texture which they just can't deliver properly. They even put a remark on the site that "minor" imperfections are not claimable as warranty! So back they went.

And all this work for some beautiful gun metal / anthracite grey fittings to be able to build the concept stuck in my head. Bitspower way too expensive, XPSC is not my style, EK was not an option and Alphacool did not have the right color. All looked bleak and lost until I found JayZTwoCents video on some "Awesome new EV2 fittings"... Now I have regained partial hope as I will try to get my hands on a couple of packs of EV2 fittings. However, getting these to Europe looks like quite a (costly) challenge! Only supplier so far is the US-based Performance PC's. Thankfully, a reply from Monsoon has made me aware that a retailer in Europe will probably get some stock soon. Lets see if that is a more economical option.

Long story short: Hi I am new and hopefully I will find my spot within this community as I embark on the most expensive project I have ever done. I haven't even touched GPU blocks yet and already I am looking at 800+ euro's for a "simple" hardline CPU loop (which includes a new case). So everyone and everything is crying about the financial sinkhole called watercooling, except for me haha







. Lastly, very happy to find such sleek and simple fittings in a dark grey color!


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Just a new(, probable), sappy fan's first post... After reading the last 50 pages of this thread trying to find more info about the EV2 fittings, you guys and girls converted me. My wallet is crying over my first build, my girlfriend is weeping that she is unable to get me out of my silent-enthusiastic vegetative state; hunched over my laptop filling webshop carts & baskets. This state has been going on for about a month in which I have been reading all things watercooling. I am currently getting and still choosing parts for my first loop. I bought a single EK ACF (soft) & HDC (hard) fitting as a sample and I only liked the color. Those things had a very poor finish in my naïve and blatted opinion :O. A delicate ribbled texture which they just can't deliver properly. They even put a remark on the site that "minor" imperfections are not claimable as warranty! So back they went.
> 
> And all this work for some beautiful gun metal / anthracite grey fittings to be able to build the concept stuck in my head. Bitspower way too expensive, XPSC is not my style, EK was not an option and Alphacool did not have the right color. All looked bleak and lost until I found JayZTwoCents video on some "Awesome new EV2 fittings"... Now I have regained partial hope as I will try to get my hands on a couple of packs of EV2 fittings. However, getting these to Europe looks like quite a (costly) challenge! Only supplier so far is the US-based Performance PC's. Thankfully, a reply from Monsoon has made me aware that a retailer in Europe will probably get some stock soon. Lets see if that is a more economical option.
> 
> Long story short: Hi I am new and hopefully I will find my spot within this community as I embark on the most expensive project I have ever done. I haven't even touched GPU blocks yet and already I am looking at 800+ euro's for a "simple" hardline CPU loop (which includes a new case). So everyone and everything is crying about the financial sinkhole called watercooling, except for me haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Lastly, very happy to find such sleek and simple fittings in a dark grey color!


Welcome to the insanity


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Just a new(, probable), sappy fan's first post... After reading the last 50 pages of this thread trying to find more info about the EV2 fittings, you guys and girls converted me. My wallet is crying over my first build, my girlfriend is weeping that she is unable to get me out of my silent-enthusiastic vegetative state; hunched over my laptop filling webshop carts & baskets. This state has been going on for about a month in which I have been reading all things watercooling. I am currently getting and still choosing parts for my first loop. I bought a single EK ACF (soft) & HDC (hard) fitting as a sample and I only liked the color. Those things had a very poor finish in my naïve and blatted opinion :O. A delicate ribbled texture which they just can't deliver properly. They even put a remark on the site that "minor" imperfections are not claimable as warranty! So back they went.
> 
> And all this work for some beautiful gun metal / anthracite grey fittings to be able to build the concept stuck in my head. Bitspower way too expensive, XPSC is not my style, EK was not an option and Alphacool did not have the right color. All looked bleak and lost until I found JayZTwoCents video on some "Awesome new EV2 fittings"... Now I have regained partial hope as I will try to get my hands on a couple of packs of EV2 fittings. However, getting these to Europe looks like quite a (costly) challenge! Only supplier so far is the US-based Performance PC's. Thankfully, a reply from Monsoon has made me aware that a retailer in Europe will probably get some stock soon. Lets see if that is a more economical option.
> 
> Long story short: Hi I am new and hopefully I will find my spot within this community as I embark on the most expensive project I have ever done. I haven't even touched GPU blocks yet and already I am looking at 800+ euro's for a "simple" hardline CPU loop (which includes a new case). So everyone and everything is crying about the financial sinkhole called watercooling, except for me haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Lastly, very happy to find such sleek and simple fittings in a dark grey color!


Pretty sure the words "expensive" and "hobby" are simpatico. No such thing as an inexpensive hobby--not if you're really into whatever it is anyway--and it seems it isn't even relative. What I mean by that is no matter what a persons relative wealth is, their hobbies are always expensive. Look at Larry Ellison--as a billionaire, if he was into water cooling he could find enough for an uber build in his couch cushions but he would rather spend hundreds of millions on racing yachts. Elon Musk...killer gaming rig? Sure--so he has something to do on his down time on mars...

My Buddy Eric says his hiking hobby is cheap but he has a ton of gear--everything from snow shoes to camp equipment and he is happiest on high altitude hikes so he flies all over the globe to hike exotic locations.

The next time your GF mentions what you're spending on your hobby...point out that you could be spending it in a bar chasing tail =)


----------



## Fathardie

Hahaha very nicely put! My GF isn't that bad. Put on a bit of the dramatic to make a nice entrance xD. But I completely concur. Hobby = budget out the door as long as you can afford it ^^.

Overclockers.co.uk replied they have no clue about the EV2 fittings xD. Monsoon said they just received a shipment. Seems I will just wait patiently until someone finds them over @ Overclockers.co.uk and puts them on the website haha. Also, those mandrels & measuring kits sure look pretty :O I like my new hobby...

@rather3: :O pretty...


----------



## Mega Man

I was not expecting living my MMRS stuff as much as I do

Got 250mm res with d5, and another stand alone d5. Will be my first non itx builds with less then 4 pump, unless I Change my mind... which I might

Loving the look of the d5s with extension ring, thanks so much for listening and making the extension....

My only problem is how I am going to mount it. I don't want to drill this particular case.. . .going to have to fabricate something, also thinking about lighting... wish there was a fan mount option


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I was not expecting living my MMRS stuff as much as I do
> 
> Got 250mm res with d5, and another stand alone d5. Will be my first non itx builds with less then 4 pump, unless I Change my mind... which I might
> 
> Loving the look of the d5s with extension ring, thanks so much for listening and making the extension....
> 
> My only problem is how I am going to mount it. I don't want to drill this particular case.. . .going to have to fabricate something, also thinking about lighting... wish there was a fan mount option


Like this 120 or 140?


----------



## Mega Man

no. like direct mount. ( i dont have 5 mm to give up let alone 12). also @boxgods just fyi iirc the pump mount end cap came in stripped. just an fyi for qc---- i mean the left hole for the mount - center set of holes. it threads in, just spins when done


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no. like direct mount. ( i dont have 5 mm to give up let alone 12). also @boxgods just fyi iirc the pump mount end cap came in stripped. just an fyi for qc---- i mean the left hole for the mount - center set of holes. it threads in, just spins when done


I noticed with thread with end caps for MonSoon, They become easily stripped. I had to return four or five caps to Amazon because of this.


----------



## Revan654

New Shipment of MoonSoon products for my build.


----------



## Fathardie

Looks like you are going to end up with a very nice radiator! ^^

Haha joke...reservoir... xD


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Looks like you are going to end up with a very nice radiator! ^^
> 
> Haha joke...reservoir... xD


Too Funny lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> no. like direct mount. ( i dont have 5 mm to give up let alone 12). also @boxgods just fyi iirc the pump mount end cap came in stripped. just an fyi for qc---- i mean the left hole for the mount - center set of holes. it threads in, just spins when done
> 
> 
> 
> I noticed with thread with end caps for MonSoon, They become easily stripped. I had to return four or five caps to Amazon because of this.
Click to expand...

no it spun before i unscrewed it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Looks like you are going to end up with a very nice radiator! ^^
> 
> Haha joke...reservoir... xD
> 
> 
> 
> Too Funny lol.
Click to expand...

this gives me ideas for my tx10


----------



## Fathardie

Anyone able to share what voltage rating the LEDs in the Monsoon Premium G1/4 LED Plug have? Cannot seem to find a proper photo of the molex connector to determine if they are 5V or 12V xD. Gonna see if I can hook them up to an Aquaero 6 LT on the fan channel to control brightness through the software.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Anyone able to share what voltage rating the LEDs in the Monsoon Premium G1/4 LED Plug have? Cannot seem to find a proper photo of the molex connector to determine if they are 5V or 12V xD. Gonna see if I can hook them up to an Aquaero 6 LT on the fan channel to control brightness through the software.




Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-premium-g-1-4-led-plug-matte-black.html#Features


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Anyone able to share what voltage rating the LEDs in the Monsoon Premium G1/4 LED Plug have? Cannot seem to find a proper photo of the molex connector to determine if they are 5V or 12V xD. Gonna see if I can hook them up to an Aquaero 6 LT on the fan channel to control brightness through the software.


They ship with a Molex plug. If you opt to replace the plug don't go over 5V for input power


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Anyone able to share what voltage rating the LEDs in the Monsoon Premium G1/4 LED Plug have? Cannot seem to find a proper photo of the molex connector to determine if they are 5V or 12V xD. Gonna see if I can hook them up to an Aquaero 6 LT on the fan channel to control brightness through the software.


Looks like its 5v the red wire. At least it does to me. Unless its got a resistor 5v would be max i think.


----------



## Fathardie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> They ship with a Molex plug. If you opt to replace the plug don't go over 5V for input power


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rather3*
> 
> Anyone able to share what voltage rating the LEDs in the Monsoon Premium G1/4 LED Plug have? Cannot seem to find a proper photo of the molex connector to determine if they are 5V or 12V xD. Gonna see if I can hook them up to an Aquaero 6 LT on the fan channel to control brightness through the software.


Thank you guys! 5V input rating it is ^^


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Out of curiosity has anyone tried the Alphacool VPP775 with the Monsoon pump top to see if it works. From what I have read the VPP775 can have fitment issues with some tops.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Out of curiosity has anyone tried the Alphacool VPP775 with the Monsoon pump top to see if it works. From what I have read the VPP775 can have fitment issues with some tops.


This is from extreme rigs Monsoon SAP - sealed well and wet test commenced but after running for ~2 minutes (pump vertical) noise erupted from inside the pump. Looks like contact between impeller and volute during operation, shaft kept spinning and flicked off the white retaining washer and flat washer underneath it. It is possible I did not put impeller retaining washer back on properly, but very unlikely as pump had been in operation for many hours after it was re-assembled following the photo shoot. Has run smoothly for a few hours since the "incident".

I am going to get one in a few weeks and try it.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> This is from extreme rigs Monsoon SAP - sealed well and wet test commenced but after running for ~2 minutes (pump vertical) noise erupted from inside the pump. Looks like contact between impeller and volute during operation, shaft kept spinning and flicked off the white retaining washer and flat washer underneath it. It is possible I did not put impeller retaining washer back on properly, but very unlikely as pump had been in operation for many hours after it was re-assembled following the photo shoot. Has run smoothly for a few hours since the "incident".
> 
> I am going to get one in a few weeks and try it.


If you can let me know how/if it works to see if this was a 1 time incident or not. I like how its closer to a "True PWM" than others on the market and how you can set the max RPM with the dial then let PWM control turn it down from there.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Out of curiosity has anyone tried the Alphacool VPP775 with the Monsoon pump top to see if it works. From what I have read the VPP775 can have fitment issues with some tops.


Their was a discussion about the pump a dozen pages back. It does make noise (More then it should) in both SAP and the addon for res.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Their was a discussion about the pump a dozen pages back. It does make noise (More then it should) in both SAP and the addon for res.


Well so much for that... Looks like it will be a D5 Vario on 3 or 4 then


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Well so much for that... Looks like it will be a D5 Vario on 3 or 4 then


Or get two D5 and set it on a lower speed.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

I would if Monsoon made a Series double pump top.... HINT HINT Especially if it connected directly to a tube res and could be floor mounted. I imagine it would look like a figure 8


----------



## BoxGods

If the Alphacool VPP775 is a tiny bit too close, (and I am not certain it is) ust use a fatter O-ring...they are about a buck...


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If the Alphacool VPP775 is a tiny bit too close, (and I am not certain it is) ust use a fatter O-ring...they are about a buck...


That is an idea to be tried. Either way I am buying Monsoon Res/Pump Top it just a question of a D5 Vario or the VPP775...

BTW BoxGods since you here did the Vertical Stand ever see the light of day? I looked for it on Perf PCS and could not find it. Just toying around with ideas in my head of how I want to put my S8 build next year and debating on if I want DemciFlex filters on the outside of the case or if I can put a 150-200MM Tube on top of the D5 and have it stand vertically without a fan bracket I can build an insert on the back of the fans with the filters.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> This is from extreme rigs Monsoon SAP - sealed well and wet test commenced but after running for ~2 minutes (pump vertical) noise erupted from inside the pump. Looks like contact between impeller and volute during operation, shaft kept spinning and flicked off the white retaining washer and flat washer underneath it. It is possible I did not put impeller retaining washer back on properly, but very unlikely as pump had been in operation for many hours after it was re-assembled following the photo shoot. Has run smoothly for a few hours since the "incident".
> 
> I am going to get one in a few weeks and try it.
> 
> 
> 
> If you can let me know how/if it works to see if this was a 1 time incident or not. I like how its closer to a "True PWM" than others on the market and how you can set the max RPM with the dial then let PWM control turn it down from there.
Click to expand...

This is further from a true pwm, then closer from what I have read it takes pwm and changes it to voltage control.

The real true pwm are the EK v2 pumps and the aquacomputer pwm pumps that are compatable with aquaero


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If the Alphacool VPP775 is a tiny bit too close, (and I am not certain it is) ust use a fatter O-ring...they are about a buck...
> 
> 
> 
> That is an idea to be tried. Either way I am buying Monsoon Res/Pump Top it just a question of a D5 Vario or the VPP775...
> 
> BTW BoxGods since you here did the Vertical Stand ever see the light of day? I looked for it on Perf PCS and could not find it. Just toying around with ideas in my head of how I want to put my S8 build next year and debating on if I want DemciFlex filters on the outside of the case or if I can put a 150-200MM Tube on top of the D5 and have it stand vertically without a fan bracket I can build an insert on the back of the fans with the filters.
Click to expand...

Vertical mounts are here in all the colors.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It depends on your case, the location, etc. My first choice would be the Fill Port as a mount...allows you to put the reservoir almost anywhere you want...and adds a fill port which is super useful...
> 
> I am going to add an upright mount for those who prefer them ...not my first choice personally but everyone likes what they like =)
> 
> 
> 
> if anyone has input...now would be better than later =)


I was referring to this when I said vertical mount. I want to mount the D5 pump and tube res combo without attaching it to the fans in the front of an S8. No worriesI have plenty of stainless and 6061T6 flat stock laying around. Should be easy enough to make something like the black part


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> It depends on your case, the location, etc. My first choice would be the Fill Port as a mount...allows you to put the reservoir almost anywhere you want...and adds a fill port which is super useful...
> 
> I am going to add an upright mount for those who prefer them ...not my first choice personally but everyone likes what they like =)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> if anyone has input...now would be better than later =)
> 
> 
> 
> I was referring to this when I said vertical mount. I want to mount the D5 pump and tube res combo without attaching it to the fans in the front of an S8. No worriesI have plenty of stainless and 6061T6 flat stock laying around. Should be easy enough to make something like the black part
Click to expand...

Those are listed in the link above, the thumbnail only shows the colored piece. Example of the blue.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> I was referring to this when I said vertical mount. I want to mount the D5 pump and tube res combo without attaching it to the fans in the front of an S8. No worriesI have plenty of stainless and 6061T6 flat stock laying around. Should be easy enough to make something like the black part


Yes they are out in all the colors. Here is the white for example:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-vertical-mount-white.html

You can search the part number MMRS-MT-VRT-XX where the last two digits (XX) are the color--the white part linked above would be MMRS-MT-VRT-WH for example.

Deedaz's link was actually correct...it was just the second row on that page


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yes they are out in all the colors. Here is the white for example:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-vertical-mount-white.html
> 
> You can search the part number MMRS-MT-VRT-XX where the last two digits (XX) are the color--the white part linked above would be MMRS-MT-VRT-WH for example.
> 
> Deedaz's link was actually correct...it was just the second row on that page


Thanks for that guys. Dont know why but didnt realise it came with the black part. Is it designed to support the pump and say a 150mm tube res?


----------



## ruffhi

I've been hunting high and low for green socket cap head screws ... only to find them here with Monsoon parts. What size are those ... M3? M4?

You have to say M3 ... mainly because that is the size I want / need.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I've been hunting high and low for green socket cap head screws ... only to find them here with Monsoon parts. What size are those ... M3? M4?
> 
> You have to say M3 ... mainly because that is the size I want / need.


Their MMRS system uses M4.

Check EBay theirs a good amount of M3 socket screws that are green.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Thanks for that guys. Dont know why but didnt realise it came with the black part. Is it designed to support the pump and say a 150mm tube res?


The bracket is powder coated 3mm steel so very strong.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> In case that screen grab of the pump-fan-mount was not 100% clear--here it is with the pump installed:


Any word if we will be seeing these? I know their were just concept last year. Just wonder if their in production or were they cancelled?


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Kind of....
http://www.performance-pcs.com/mmrs-radiator-mounting-kit-120mm.html

There is a 120mm and 140mm mount plate that you use with the 25mm and 50mm vertical mounts sold separately


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Kind of....
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mmrs-radiator-mounting-kit-120mm.html
> 
> There is a 120mm and 140mm mount plate that you use with the 25mm and 50mm vertical mounts sold separately


Concept of Pump top mounting was shown after the 120mm/140mm MMRS rad mounting system was released.


----------



## Deedaz

Made a gpu backplate to match the custom fittings.


----------



## Ceadderman

We ever gonna get Monsoon Brand cooling blocks and possibly radiators? Would be awesome imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Any word if we will be seeing these? I know their were just concept last year. Just wonder if their in production or were they cancelled?


Doubtful as they are too expensive to make for a small run--I just couldn't sell enough of them to cover costs as very few people would use them...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Made a gpu backplate to match the custom fittings.


Made from acrylic sheet?


----------



## jvillaveces

I currently have a Bitspower res mounted directly to a D5 with mod kit and mod top. It sits on top of a bottom mounted rad. What MMRS parts do I need to get to replace the BP unit with Monsoon products? Specifically, I'm wondering if the MMRS rad mount will work on my bottom mounted rad -- at the risk of being redundant, I need the pump-res assembly to sit on top of the rad. Thanks!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> We ever gonna get Monsoon Brand cooling blocks and possibly radiators? Would be awesome imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have had a really cool radiator designed for years...just never seem to be able to get to it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I currently have a Bitspower res mounted directly to a D5 with mod kit and mod top. It sits on top of a bottom mounted rad. What MMRS parts do I need to get to replace the BP unit with Monsoon products? Specifically, I'm wondering if the MMRS rad mount will work on my bottom mounted rad -- at the risk of being redundant, I need the pump-res assembly to sit on top of the rad. Thanks!


Is the reservoir mounted vertically (IOW perpendicular to the bottom of your case)?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> I currently have a Bitspower res mounted directly to a D5 with mod kit and mod top. It sits on top of a bottom mounted rad. What MMRS parts do I need to get to replace the BP unit with Monsoon products? Specifically, I'm wondering if the MMRS rad mount will work on my bottom mounted rad -- at the risk of being redundant, I need the pump-res assembly to sit on top of the rad. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Is the reservoir mounted vertically (IOW perpendicular to the bottom of your case)?
Click to expand...

Yes, vertical, i.e. the res sits on top of the pump, which is oriented vertically, and the pump is mounted to the rad. Here's a picture, from my sig:


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Made a gpu backplate to match the custom fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made from acrylic sheet?
Click to expand...

Yep!


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Made a gpu backplate to match the custom fittings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made from acrylic sheet?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yep!
Click to expand...

Very nice! Hand cut?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Doubtful as they are too expensive to make for a small run--I just couldn't sell enough of them to cover costs as very few people would use them...


Shame. It would have been useful.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Made a gpu backplate to match the custom fittings.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made from acrylic sheet?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yep!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Very nice! Hand cut?
Click to expand...

Yeah, got a 12 x 12 piece and used one of these to cut it. Got the idea after watching JP modified on youtube, he does some amazing work with acrylic.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Yes, vertical, i.e. the res sits on top of the pump, which is oriented vertically, and the pump is mounted to the rad. Here's a picture, from my sig:


Seems like you have plenty of space on, and good proximity to the motherboard tray for mounting...then you would not be blocking the radiator fan.

I dig that Jem' hadar color theme =)


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Yes, vertical, i.e. the res sits on top of the pump, which is oriented vertically, and the pump is mounted to the rad. Here's a picture, from my sig:
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like you have plenty of space on, and good proximity to the motherboard tray for mounting...then you would not be blocking the radiator fan.
Click to expand...

Temps are more than OK as it is, so blocking the fan is not a big concern. For aesthetic reasons (my 15 y-o son's idea of it anyway) and simplicity's sake, I want to keep it where it is. BUT, the BP res is leaking, and it's not the first time this happens to me, so I was thinking of upgrading to an MMRS, I just can't figure out exactly what mounting hardware to get so I can just replace it -- I don't want the res replacement to become a major mod project, but rather something I can do in a couple of hours over the weekend.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Temps are more than OK as it is, so blocking the fan is not a big concern. For aesthetic reasons (my 15 y-o son's idea of it anyway) and simplicity's sake, I want to keep it where it is. BUT, the BP res is leaking, and it's not the first time this happens to me, so I was thinking of upgrading to an MMRS, I just can't figure out exactly what mounting hardware to get so I can just replace it -- I don't want the res replacement to become a major mod project, but rather something I can do in a couple of hours over the weekend.


Your not the first or even second person I heard saying their BP res is leaking. One reason I stayed away from BP waterblocks & Res.

Putting everything together and mounting took about 5 minutes for me. All you need is two of these (One if your going to use 50mm version) (They come in 25mm, 50mm or Grass Hopper edition)

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-Reservoir-Mount-MMRS-MT-50MM-Height/dp/B01LRCAVEE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1485373026&sr=8-9&keywords=MonSoon+MMRS

PPCS also sells them and their a bit cheaper. Also PPCS has complete edition, which allows you to pick your parts from a list so you know you will have everything you need.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Temps are more than OK as it is, so blocking the fan is not a big concern. For aesthetic reasons (my 15 y-o son's idea of it anyway) and simplicity's sake, I want to keep it where it is. BUT, the BP res is leaking, and it's not the first time this happens to me, so I was thinking of upgrading to an MMRS, I just can't figure out exactly what mounting hardware to get so I can just replace it -- I don't want the res replacement to become a major mod project, but rather something I can do in a couple of hours over the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> Your not the first or even second person I heard saying their BP res is leaking. One reason I stayed away from BP waterblocks & Res.
> 
> Putting everything together and mounting took about 5 minutes for me. All you need is two of these (One if your going to use 50mm version) (They come in 25mm, 50mm or Grass Hopper edition)
> 
> Link: https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-Reservoir-Mount-MMRS-MT-50MM-Height/dp/B01LRCAVEE/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1485373026&sr=8-9&keywords=MonSoon+MMRS
> 
> PPCS also sells them and their a bit cheaper. Also PPCS has complete edition, which allows you to pick your parts from a list so you know you will have everything you need.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I'm not sure those will work for the way I need to mount it. Aren't they for mounting to a case wall or vertical plate?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Hmm, I'm not sure those will work for the way I need to mount it. Aren't they for mounting to a case wall or vertical plate?


Yes & No. You can use the above link along with fan mounts to attach the res.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-Reservoir-Radiator-Mounting-120mm/dp/B01MQQ5KEQ/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=CN3ZR8CWJ7T8M9FP0QQH&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop

You would have to lay the reservoir down on it side for your setup.

You could use what I posted in the first picture( Vertical Mounting Bracket). You will also need some sort of Bracket to mount to a fan/rad or case)I believe AlphaCool or DarkSide might work with MonSoon vertical bracket. Scroll through images in this thread I know their some example of use those two bracket together. Which will give you a better example then a product image that I posted.

Hope all this make sense.


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Hmm, I'm not sure those will work for the way I need to mount it. Aren't they for mounting to a case wall or vertical plate?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes & No. You can use the above link along with fan mounts to attach the res.
> 
> Link: https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-Reservoir-Radiator-Mounting-120mm/dp/B01MQQ5KEQ/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=CN3ZR8CWJ7T8M9FP0QQH&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop
> 
> You would have to lay the reservoir down on it side for your setup.
> 
> You could use what I posted in the first picture( Vertical Mounting Bracket). You will also need some sort of Bracket to mount to a fan/rad or case)I believe AlphaCool or DarkSide might work with MonSoon vertical bracket. Scroll through images in this thread I know their some example of use those two bracket together. Which will give you a better example then a product image that I posted.
> 
> Hope all this make sense.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, it doesn't really make sense, which is why I posted the question in the first place. I'm not sure the MMRS rad brackets work in combination with the standalone D5 mount to mount the pump-res in my desired configuration, and if they don't, I'm not aware of any other combination of parts that would work. I'm confused. That's why I asked. I'm getting the impression that my desired configuration is not possible with any combination of existing parts. I guess I need to revise my plans.

EDIT: I found this on Amazon, showing almost what I want, The vertical mount will work with the D5 adapter and res to support them in a vertical orientation, correct? So all I would need is a way to securely attach the mount shown to the rad?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Unfortunately, it doesn't really make sense, which is why I posted the question in the first place. I'm not sure the MMRS rad brackets work in combination with the standalone D5 mount to mount the pump-res in my desired configuration, and if they don't, I'm not aware of any other combination of parts that would work. I'm confused. That's why I asked. I'm getting the impression that my desired configuration is not possible with any combination of existing parts. I guess I need to revise my plans.
> 
> EDIT: I found this on Amazon, showing almost what I want, The vertical mount will work with the D5 adapter and res to support them in a vertical orientation, correct? So all I would need is a way to securely attach the mount shown to the rad?


This might work. http://www.performance-pcs.com/mmrs-radiator-mounting-kit-120mm.htmlight might have to drill a hole or 2. Might want to ask BoxGods tho


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> Unfortunately, it doesn't really make sense, which is why I posted the question in the first place. I'm not sure the MMRS rad brackets work in combination with the standalone D5 mount to mount the pump-res in my desired configuration, and if they don't, I'm not aware of any other combination of parts that would work. I'm confused. That's why I asked. I'm getting the impression that my desired configuration is not possible with any combination of existing parts. I guess I need to revise my plans.
> 
> EDIT: I found this on Amazon, showing almost what I want, The vertical mount will work with the D5 adapter and res to support them in a vertical orientation, correct? So all I would need is a way to securely attach the mount shown to the rad?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This might work. http://www.performance-pcs.com/mmrs-radiator-mounting-kit-120mm.htmlight might have to drill a hole or 2. Might want to ask BoxGods tho
Click to expand...

@BoxGods? Will this work? If not out of the box, can it be adapted?


----------



## Deedaz

You should be able to attach it to the radiator mount, but it will only be secured with the shorter bar unless you drill holes into the radiator mount.


----------



## Radnad

I realized I never posted pics of my final res setup of my old main rig/now dedicated folder. Have another one coming soon too for my new main rig.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jvillaveces*
> 
> @BoxGods? Will this work? If not out of the box, can it be adapted?


It could be modified to work of course but honestly...it would be a lot easier to just use the standard mounts. I know it will likely irritate you that I keep coming back to the standard mounts but I just want to make 100% sure you understand how they work. They come in three different lengths--12mm, 25mm, and 50mm and with shims / spacers you can easily alter any of those lengths. That should get you out from the motherboard tray the exact distance you need to keep your existing plumbing routes. You can also adjust the reservoir up / down as needed and the only real effort as far as tools go is drilling four 5mm holes--and the drill bit is included. It really is pretty straight forward.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> I realized I never posted pics of my final res setup of my old main rig/now dedicated folder. Have another one coming soon too for my new main rig.


I personally have never been all that crazy about straight tube with the 90 degree fittings for the bends...but there is no doubt you did a super clean job there. I half expect Mario to come bounding over one of those pipes and a giant mushroom power up pop out =)


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I personally have never been all that crazy about straight tube with the 90 degree fittings for the bends...but there is no doubt you did a super clean job there. I half expect Mario to come bounding over one of those pipes and a giant mushroom power up pop out =)


I'm looking at building a glass tubing loop soon and just ordered a 150mm MMRS setup. Look forward to seeing more sexy 90 degree fittings in the future!


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Stupid question but will the EV2 caps fit on free center barbs for soft tube? Planning on using LMT for the basement on a build and while the fitting will barely be visable my OCD will know the difference.


----------



## Ceadderman

Pretty sure that's not possible. The tubing channel would be too thin for soft tubing wall, which is double that of rigid tubing.









~Ceadder


----------



## Fathardie

Hea guys! Bought a very nice measuring kit but it seems the 90 degree angles aren't 90 degrees?







Anyone have a clue what I can do or what the reason is they aren't 90 degrees? Curious to see if it is for a very smart reason but I am too tired to see it haha.

Not 90 degrees


Corner and wood are 90 degrees


----------



## Ceadderman

90* bends in the measurement kit are proximate. There is a touch of deflection. But so long as you're using the 90* corner piece to lay out your markings, you should be just fine since the beginning and ending marks should be Center to Center. Also any deflection should be worked out in the bending process to get your post bend travel adjusted.









~Ceadder


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Pretty much what Ceadderman said. The measurement kit gets you really close but its meant to be used with the Mandrels. There are some really good videos on Youtube on how to use it all together. I would suggest watching them and it will all make sense:


----------



## solidshark91493

This thread still amazes me every time I come on. Hate that the reason I came on was to look for solutions to fix my scratched monitor..
Hopefully getting a new gpu this year, And Ill be using some monsoon fittings to tie it into my swiftech AIO.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

BoxGods is there any plans for a dual D5 top?


----------



## WhiteWulfe

BoxGods seems like the kind of person who'd be crazy enough to find a way to make a setup that has two loops, each with dual pumps AND a decent sized reservoir... And make it look like a radial engine.

Would it sell? Probably not, but seems like they'd be creative enough to do something that insane, or at least pull it off successfully.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> BoxGods seems like the kind of person who'd be crazy enough to find a way to make a setup that has
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> BoxGods seems like the kind of person who'd be crazy enough to find a way to make a setup that has two loops, each with dual pumps AND a decent sized reservoir... And make it look like a radial engine.
> 
> Would it sell? Probably not, but seems like they'd be creative enough to do something that insane, or at least pull it off successfully.
> 
> 
> 
> I just want 2 D5 for 1 loop in series that looks as beautiful as the rest of the MMRS line.
> 
> Edit to erase double quote
Click to expand...


----------



## ChiTownButcher

This is why I should not quote from my cell phone.... lol


----------



## Fathardie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 90* bends in the measurement kit are proximate. There is a touch of deflection. But so long as you're using the 90* corner piece to lay out your markings, you should be just fine since the beginning and ending marks should be Center to Center. Also any deflection should be worked out in the bending process to get your post bend travel adjusted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Your post got me thinking so I decided to do the math xD. My workout:



Step 1 shows the "deflected" situation. Corner alpha is a touch off 90 degrees and with my ruler I measured an angle of 87 degrees. This translates into both legs becoming too long. The lower leg by 0.5cm and the higher leg by 0.1cm. Step 2 shows both measuring points with the mandrel and both too long legs as we would be bending it. Step 3 was a side track where I though the materials needed for the bend would adjust the deflection, but this does not change the mandrel position or the measuring points. Also, the difference is in favor of less material used by the bend resulting in even longer legs. So my conclusion, in step 4, is that the deflection is not solved by the bending process and the legs will be too long. As shown by the table in step 2, this can quickly ramp up to 1 or 1.5 cm for the "correctly angled" leg with longer legs in a big computercase shared by both legs for an arbitrary amount (eyeballing the angle will not result in 1 perfectly straight ruler and 1 sharp-angled ruler but rather 2 sharp-angled rulers).

So all in all as far as I have been able to work out, as we would cut the legs only after the bending, the measuring points do not change and the legs would become too long.

Using my explanation as my understanding to the situation, where am I going wrong? I get the angles are an approximation but 3 degrees off is quite a bit as can be seen by the numbers. So if my understanding is correct then the deflection is not solved by the bending resulting in significant longer legs.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fathardie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> 90* bends in the measurement kit are proximate. There is a touch of deflection. But so long as you're using the 90* corner piece to lay out your markings, you should be just fine since the beginning and ending marks should be Center to Center. Also any deflection should be worked out in the bending process to get your post bend travel adjusted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your post got me thinking so I decided to do the math xD. My workout:
> 
> 
> 
> Step 1 shows the "deflected" situation. Corner alpha is a touch off 90 degrees and with my ruler I measured an angle of 87 degrees. This translates into both legs becoming too long. The lower leg by 0.5cm and the higher leg by 0.1cm. Step 2 shows both measuring points with the mandrel and both too long legs as we would be bending it. Step 3 was a side track where I though the materials needed for the bend would adjust the deflection, but this does not change the mandrel position or the measuring points. Also, the difference is in favor of less material used by the bend resulting in even longer legs. So my conclusion, in step 4, is that the deflection is not solved by the bending process and the legs will be too long. As shown by the table in step 2, this can quickly ramp up to 1 or 1.5 cm for the "correctly angled" leg with longer legs in a big computercase shared by both legs for an arbitrary amount (eyeballing the angle will not result in 1 perfectly straight ruler and 1 sharp-angled ruler but rather 2 sharp-angled rulers).
> 
> So all in all as far as I have been able to work out, as we would cut the legs only after the bending, the measuring points do not change and the legs would become too long.
> 
> Using my explanation as my understanding to the situation, where am I going wrong? I get the angles are an approximation but 3 degrees off is quite a bit as can be seen by the numbers. So if my understanding is correct then the deflection is not solved by the bending resulting in significant longer legs.
Click to expand...

You're overthinking it. If it's a single bend you should place the rules flat to each other with the wingnut locking them together using the washers. So that you have an L shape. Then you take the Corner piece and use that to get your 90. If you're doing an offset is when the bracket comes into play. Even then it's best to only use the bracket to approximate first part of your bend. As for extra material there is only so much added length. If you take the degree into account and short your length on that offset end you should see a better outcome. Basically you line it out one angle at a time starting from one fitting to your bend, from the bend to your other fitting or to your next bend and to completion or bend to fitting.









The slot in your rule needs to line up with the opening of each fitting, as they are intended to measure Center to Center from one to the other.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> BoxGods is there any plans for a dual D5 top?


I asked the same thing awhile back and they said no to the matter.


----------



## MuxLee

has anybody painted the plastic parts on the reservoirs .. I want to paint them in blue

is there a guide or walkthrough available

TIA
Mux


----------



## Fathardie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> You're overthinking it. If it's a single bend you should place the rules flat to each other with the wingnut locking them together using the washers. So that you have an L shape. Then you take the Corner piece and use that to get your 90. If you're doing an offset is when the bracket comes into play. Even then it's best to only use the bracket to approximate first part of your bend. As for extra material there is only so much added length. If you take the degree into account and short your length on that offset end you should see a better outcome. Basically you line it out one angle at a time starting from one fitting to your bend, from the bend to your other fitting or to your next bend and to completion or bend to fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The slot in your rule needs to line up with the opening of each fitting, as they are intended to measure Center to Center from one to the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Thanks! I will see if I can use the "single-angle" principle in my subsequent bends. This bracket used for approximation is not used in the 3rd part of the Monsoon measuring video though. They are using the specific numbers as measured with the 90-bracket. Not sure if new video's will ever be made, but maybe they should take that into consideration or add a little note. Anyways, question answered for me!


----------



## Ginja ninja

Hi everyone

I am hoping someone can answer this question.

I need to replace my Aquacomputer D5 pwm pump as it is making an unhealthy noise. I am looking to replace it with a Alphacool Eispump VPP755 but I'm not sure if it will fit the MMRS D5 pump top. Anyone know if it will fit?

Cheers!

Jeremy


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ginja ninja*
> 
> Hi everyone
> 
> I am hoping someone can answer this question.
> 
> I need to replace my Aquacomputer D5 pwm pump as it is making an unhealthy noise. I am looking to replace it with a Alphacool Eispump VPP755 but I'm not sure if it will fit the MMRS D5 pump top. Anyone know if it will fit?
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Jeremy


This has been discussed multiple times, the conclusion is no. Based on a few reviews it gets nosy noise inside the pump top due to AlphaCool D5 pump casing being smaller then the standard D5 casing.


----------



## R-o-D

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> This has been discussed multiple times, the conclusion is no. Based on a few reviews it gets nosy noise inside the pump top due to AlphaCool D5 pump casing being smaller then the standard D5 casing.


I don't think it's conclusive yet. There has been a problem (in a review) and it has been mentioned that a thicker oring might solve the problem but no one has tested it.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *R-o-D*
> 
> I don't think it's conclusive yet. There has been a problem (in a review) and it has been mentioned that a thicker oring might solve the problem but no one has tested it.


I think someone did try it but they still had issues. I would get a standard D5 pump if you want MonSoon top or a top that will fit the new AlphaCool pump without any issues.


----------



## Revan654

I was able to fit two 250 inside a SM8. I didn't think I would be able to.

Even at 250, The MMRS does not fit on the Case-Labs Res mounting plate.


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> has anybody painted the plastic parts on the reservoirs .. I want to paint them in blue
> 
> is there a guide or walkthrough available
> 
> TIA
> Mux


By plastic parts, do you mean the end caps, couplers, etc?

If so, I have done a bit of painting on those. I painted the top of the stand-alone pump from black to white, since it's one of the few parts that does not come in white. I had originally planned to do the couplers and everything else, but luckily those were made in white before I got to that step in my build.



It has been almost a year since I painted it, so I can't remember the specifics but I didn't do anything unusual. I probably sanded it down with 400/800/1000 git sand paper until it was smooth since they have a bit of a texture to them and that texture will make whatever painting you do look pretty bad. Then wash it off good to make sure there isn't any junk left over from the sanding. I put on a light coat of primer and then a couple coats of my color, no different than how I would paint any other part of my build.

To ensure that no paint got into sensitive areas, I used a spare pump cap (the blue part in the picture) and attached it to the top. I then used some spare stop plugs to cover up the holes on the top.

And of course, I am no expert in painting so others may have better and more specific advice.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomiger*
> 
> By plastic parts, do you mean the end caps, couplers, etc?
> 
> If so, I have done a bit of painting on those. I painted the top of the stand-alone pump from black to white, since it's one of the few parts that does not come in white. I had originally planned to do the couplers and everything else, but luckily those were made in white before I got to that step in my build.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It has been almost a year since I painted it, so I can't remember the specifics but I didn't do anything unusual. I probably sanded it down with 400/800/1000 git sand paper until it was smooth since they have a bit of a texture to them and that texture will make whatever painting you do look pretty bad. Then wash it off good to make sure there isn't any junk left over from the sanding. I put on a light coat of primer and then a couple coats of my color, no different than how I would paint any other part of my build.
> 
> To ensure that no paint got into sensitive areas, I used a spare pump cap (the blue part in the picture) and attached it to the top. I then used some spare stop plugs to cover up the holes on the top.
> 
> And of course, I am no expert in painting so others may have better and more specific advice.


Yes the couplers and end caps , they don't come in blue









its the masking off I am not sure of. did you plug the holes around the edge / face ?

thanks


----------



## Tomiger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> Yes the couplers and end caps , they don't come in blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its the masking off I am not sure of. did you plug the holes around the edge / face ?
> 
> thanks


I am not 100% sure, but when I get home later I can check. I have an outrageous number of photos from my build (which I have been meaning to put into a log soon), so I'm sure I have a photo of when I painted it somewhere.

I can sure for certain that I didn't plug the holes around the edge (the holes where you would attach a mount to), as those don't lead into the internal "cavity" of the top. I'll have to see if I kept the screws in around the face (the blue screws in my picture).


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> Yes the couplers and end caps , they don't come in blue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> its the masking off I am not sure of. did you plug the holes around the edge / face ?
> 
> thanks


Just a suggestion so try at your own risk....but I would try taking a white part and putting it in a pot with some Rit type dye and bringing up the heat a little so the pores in the plastic accept the dye. The original Monsoon dual bay reservoirs were colored that way and the blue was beautiful. A lot easier than painting--but be careful with those dyes as they are powerful.

Also, use the Rit dye for synthetic fibers. Link below.

https://www.ritstudio.com/color-library/rit-dyemore/


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just a suggestion so try at your own risk....but I would try taking a white part and putting it in a pot with some Rit type dye and bringing up the heat a little so the pores in the plastic accept the dye. The original Monsoon dual bay reservoirs were colored that way and the blue was beautiful. A lot easier than painting--but be careful with those dyes as they are powerful.
> 
> Also, use the Rit dye for synthetic fibers. Link below.
> 
> https://www.ritstudio.com/color-library/rit-dyemore/


Thanks but I cant do the black ones this way if I could that's what I would do ? seems a lot less hassle than painting.

@BoxGods - do any UK suppliers carry this series in blue , I have green red black white chrome but rarely see blue items


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Just make sure to wear gloves when dealing with rit dyes, unless you want your hands to be whatever colour you're working with for a few days/weeks


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Its difficult to die black and have it take a coloe and if even possible you end up with a subtle hue, white end caps should be easy to die though. I know from my other hobby (guns/custom AR-15s) that a lot of people use rit die for magpul magazines. I am sure you can fine pictures of a black died PMAG. That said they almost always started with the tan (color of magazine before die) because its easier.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Just make sure to wear gloves when dealing with rit dyes, unless you want your hands to be whatever colour you're working with for a few days/weeks


That's real good advice !!!! blue hands no thanks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Its difficult to die black and have it take a coloe and if even possible you end up with a subtle hue, white end caps should be easy to die though. I know from my other hobby (guns/custom AR-15s) that a lot of people use rit die for magpul magazines. I am sure you can fine pictures of a black died PMAG. That said they almost always started with the tan (color of magazine before die) because its easier.


Yeah I gathered that the black ones would be difficult , so I will paint those do some experiments before I dive all in . However if I had known this first I would of bought white couplers and dyed them to the colour I want but at least I can use the dye on my EK-Varders which are boring grey and bugging me


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiteWulfe*
> 
> Just make sure to wear gloves when dealing with rit dyes, unless you want your hands to be whatever colour you're working with for a few days/weeks


And do not under any circumstances pick your nose =)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> And do not under any circumstances pick your nose =)


Oh come on, zombie coloured nose bleeds are the best. Or something.







Or is it the burning, or the fact that you run the risk of getting it into your bloodstream by doing such?


----------



## rathar3

HA i will tell ya a good one. I worked in a papermill on a paper machine that made colored paper. On a sheet break the size press got plugged.
the size press has hot cornstarch thats been emulsified with water then dye is added to color the top or bottom which ever needs it .

Any how i was under the press and my backtender opened the press on me which was full of hot blue size. And POOF pappa smurf came out screaming and swearing.

had a few minor burns and blue hair hands and face. We had a special soap to remove the dye but it was a reactive to the dye which made it get hot. So i showered in ice cold water with reactive soap to get the blue dye off and i had a blue tint for 3 weeks. got a lot of funny looks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> HA i will tell ya a good one. I worked in a papermill on a paper machine that made colored paper. On a sheet break the size press got plugged.
> the size press has hot cornstarch thats been emulsified with water then dye is added to color the top or bottom which ever needs it .
> 
> Any how i was under the press and my backtender opened the press on me which was full of hot blue size. And POOF pappa smurf came out screaming and swearing.
> 
> had a few minor burns and blue hair hands and face. We had a special soap to remove the dye but it was a reactive to the dye which made it get hot. So i showered in ice cold water with reactive soap to get the blue dye off and i had a blue tint for 3 weeks. got a lot of funny looks


Print shops can be dangerous places. Off color story so apologies to anyone it offends. I used to work in a print shop with a woman named Jenny (who had the nicest rear end in jeans you have ever seen) and one day she somehow got her apron strings into the rollers of this ancient Heidelberg printer and it sucked one of her nice round butt cheeks into the machine. Thankfully another printer nearby got to the kill switch pretty fast.


----------



## rathar3

OUCH !!!! thats just wrong


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Print shops can be dangerous places. Off color story so apologies to anyone it offends. I used to work in a print shop with a woman named Jenny (who had the nicest rear end in jeans you have ever seen) and one day she somehow got her apron strings into the rollers of this ancient Heidelberg printer and it sucked one of her nice round butt cheeks into the machine. Thankfully another printer nearby got to the kill switch pretty fast.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> OUCH !!!! thats just wrong


I wonder did you offer to rub it and make it better??


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to fit two 250 inside a SM8. I didn't think I would be able to.
> 
> Even at 250, The MMRS does not fit on the Case-Labs Res mounting plate.


You could used a 100 and 150 and made it to the mount plate (or w.e sizes ) just food for thoughts for next time


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You could used a 100 and 150 and made it to the mount plate (or w.e sizes ) just food for thoughts for next time


Already had everything, Other res have zero issue when it comes to mounting 250 on the plate.


----------



## rathar3

Got the waterblock comming for my RX480. Picked it up off a local sell and swap site new in the box for 125.00. Ordered a ek copper plexi block and backplate to go with it. This weekend i get out the Dreaded Black briefcase and start bending again. Ordered a 4 pack of tubes and ev2 purple fittings. Hope it goes well last time had to get help.


----------



## BoxGods

Man...I need to BUILD SOMETHING


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man...I need to BUILD SOMETHING


Remember the first time you assembled an MMRS? I just got this guy...


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Could someone please tell me if I just made a mistake, I ordered Alphacool VPP655 pump for the hopefully upcoming MMRS reservoir I can still cancel the order if it`s the wrong one, I thought all the D5 are standardized and it should work with the MMRS res and top ?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Could someone please tell me if I just made a mistake, I ordered Alphacool VPP655 pump for the hopefully upcoming MMRS reservoir I can still cancel the order if it`s the wrong one, I thought all the D5 are standardized and it should work with the MMRS res and top ?


The casing for VPP655 is shorter then other D5 casing on the market. AlphaCool D5 was custom built from the ground up, Other D5 pumps are mostly just rebranded (Minus Aqua-Computer Aquabus pump). Theirs only a handful of pump tops that it will work in without any issues.

Theirs been allot of talk about that pump in this thread. At the end the take away was always, it's a bit lose in the pump top and creates a lot more noise.


----------



## Mega Man

All D5s are, that is not a d5


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Jesus, what pumps can I buy for the mmrs d5 top then? And how is it not a d5 the vpp755 is shorter as far as i know the vpp655 is just standard, no? All the specs on it are same as all the other d5's but its not a d5 how does that make sense?
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/configurator-monsoon-mmrs-bundle-bu-003-mo.html
Ordering from here but do all the pumps they list under their pumps section are a safe bet? Better pay a little extra and grab it from there then.
Just cancelled the Vp655 single order turns out i know nothing.


----------



## Ceadderman

Any rebranded D5 will do. EK, Swiftech, XSPS are all Lliangs and matters not whether Vario or PWM. iirc, For the plate to work with Vario you need to drill a pass through for the know but it's a simple enough procedure.









~Ceadder


----------



## outofmyheadyo

So I just cancelled the order for no reason?


----------



## Ceadderman

I've never gotten a AC v655 but if it doesn't have the Connector base it should work. The problem is that they also have a Molex connection in their newest offering and I think the mention of AC at all fives people the heebies so they lump em all together.









Honestly I would just get a Lowra from EK. It is Liang. Lowra is their source for the D5. That way you know it will work, no questions asked.









~Ceadder


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So I just cancelled the order for no reason?


If you want it to fit in the MMRS, Then no you didn't cancel it for no reason.

Basically any D5 will work except the new AlphaCool pump.

These will fit without any issues(For Example):

Link: http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/19382/watercool-wcp-d5
or
Link: http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/13056/aquacomputer-d5-pumpenmechanik-mit-tachosignal?c=2722


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> So I just cancelled the order for no reason?


no, it is not a d5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Jesus, what pumps can I buy for the mmrs d5 top then?


any d5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> And how is it not a d5 the vpp755 is shorter as far as i know the vpp655 is just standard, no? All the specs on it are same as all the other d5's but its not a d5 how does that make sense?


because laing does not make it
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Could someone please tell me if I just made a mistake, I ordered Alphacool VPP655 pump for the hopefully upcoming MMRS reservoir I can still cancel the order if it`s the wrong one, I thought all the D5 are standardized and it should work with the MMRS res and top ?
> 
> 
> 
> The casing for VPP655 is shorter then other D5 casing on the market. AlphaCool D5 was custom built from the ground up, Other D5 pumps are mostly just rebranded (Minus Aqua-Computer Aquabus pump). Theirs only a handful of pump tops that it will work in without any issues.
> 
> Theirs been allot of talk about that pump in this thread. At the end the take away was always, it's a bit lose in the pump top and creates a lot more noise.
Click to expand...

please stop calling it a d5 , it isnt

whoops sorry i was thinking this was the new pump,

yep, i was wrong

i thought you were purchasing a VPP755 sorry :/


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Its all good, thanks for setting the record straight, I sent the store a new email not to cancel it they must think I am crazy.
Anyway im not in much of a hurry, I havent even managed to order my MMRS reservoir yet since there is a bit of an issue with the delivery to where I live, but hoping to have it solved soon, cant wait to pair the 400mm total lenght MMRS reservoir with the Alphacool monsta 560.


----------



## Mega Man

Ok so just got the mating kit and 2 ends I wanted. (Triple port +2 and d5)

Inbox sad panda moment I have to go get nuts and I assume modify the top to use it.... as I don't want to use a tube


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ok so just got the mating kit and 2 ends I wanted. (Triple port +2 and d5)
> 
> Inbox sad panda moment I have to go get nuts and I assume modify the top to use it.... as I don't want to use a tube


Is this what you're looking for?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ok so just got the mating kit and 2 ends I wanted. (Triple port +2 and d5)
> 
> Inbox sad panda moment I have to go get nuts and I assume modify the top to use it.... as I don't want to use a tube
> 
> 
> 
> Is this what you're looking for?
Click to expand...

Think he already has that kit. I think he is looking for the open rings to use it.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

No, I have that, I want black, m4, socket head, barrel nuts which don't seem to exist



Where my hand is well be a d5


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No, I have that, I want black, m4, socket head, barrel nuts which don't seem to exist
> 
> 
> 
> Where my hand is well be a d5


Did you check bolt depot??? If not do


----------



## Mega Man

Thanks doing it now, I guess the are also called sex bolts

Yea nope, this is as close as I can find

http://tinyurl.com/jllka7l

Local so I may try it, but I don't like the head, I think I may modify or use rivnuts which ironically I already have on the way.

I want this top as my block works better with 3 outlets (apogee hd)


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No, I have that, I want black, m4, socket head, barrel nuts which don't seem to exist
> 
> 
> 
> Where my hand is well be a d5[/quote
> 
> Performance pc has m4 black nylon lock nuts http://www.performance-pcs.com/modmytoys-lock-nuts-m4-black-pack-of-12.html come in 4 packs also


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Trying to buy this MMRS reservoir is like shopping for unicorn dust, only one out of 6 of the retailers they "advertise" on their site as their european retailers has some limited stock of things ( but missing colors I want and whatnot ), but the fun part is they refuse to ship to where I live, so ordering from europe is out of the question.
Next I decided fine, I`ll pay the 20% VAT and shipping and order the reservoir from the US, but fun starts again, only 2 out of 4 retailers on their site for the US have any stock of the MMRS components one ( titanrig ) does not ship to where I live, and the other ( performance-pcs ) dont have any stock of the TRP pump top wich makes all the other bits they have irrelevant








How hard is it to keep stock of things ? I dont understand, or atleast if u run out of things fine, it`s understandable it`s the loveliest res on the planet, but please let people know when is the next shipment.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Trying to buy this MMRS reservoir is like shopping for unicorn dust, only one out of 6 of the retailers they "advertise" on their site as their european retailers has some limited stock of things ( but missing colors I want and whatnot ), but the fun part is they refuse to ship to where I live, so ordering from europe is out of the question.
> Next I decided fine, I`ll pay the 20% VAT and shipping and order the reservoir from the US, but fun starts again, only 2 out of 4 retailers on their site for the US have any stock of the MMRS components one ( titanrig ) does not ship to where I live, and the other ( performance-pcs ) dont have any stock of the TRP pump top wich makes all the other bits they have irrelevant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How hard is it to keep stock of things ? I dont understand, or atleast if u run out of things fine, it`s understandable it`s the loveliest res on the planet, but please let people know when is the next shipment.


Performance-PCS has the TRP in stock. I just did a quick search both White and Black are instock.


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Trying to buy this MMRS reservoir is like shopping for unicorn dust, only one out of 6 of the retailers they "advertise" on their site as their european retailers has some limited stock of things ( but missing colors I want and whatnot ), but the fun part is they refuse to ship to where I live, so ordering from europe is out of the question.
> Next I decided fine, I`ll pay the 20% VAT and shipping and order the reservoir from the US, but fun starts again, only 2 out of 4 retailers on their site for the US have any stock of the MMRS components one ( titanrig ) does not ship to where I live, and the other ( performance-pcs ) dont have any stock of the TRP pump top wich makes all the other bits they have irrelevant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How hard is it to keep stock of things ? I dont understand, or atleast if u run out of things fine, it`s understandable it`s the loveliest res on the planet, but please let people know when is the next shipment.


You can't find what you're looking for on https://www.overclockers.co.uk ? They are another holy grail site for monsoon products.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thetherington*
> 
> You can't find what you're looking for on https://www.overclockers.co.uk ? They are another holy grail site for monsoon products.


Thats the one site that i checked that had some stock but they refuse to ship to where i live, and have pretty limited stock, not interested in different color parts that dont match either but thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Performance-PCS has the TRP in stock. I just did a quick search both White and Black are instock.


Yep, I just sent them a webnote got an answer that they forgot to change it must of just done it tonight, was out of stock just a few hours ago, and im gonna order from there now, thanks for noticing tho!

I made up my order, can someone who has some experience with the MMRS reservoirs take a look if i got everything I need for the res, I got the pump and plugs so I dont need those!
I dont really want to miss anyting since the delivery is 50€ and the VAT is 20% of the total order so that`s another 30€ so I wouldn`t want to make another order just because i missed something, thank you.


----------



## RnRollie

BTW have you tried through Amazon?
I know Amazon carries Monsoon products, but not sure if they have what you want


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Im pretty set on ordering from performance pc, since they have everything in stock just need to decide on the colors and hit order now








Titanrig is on amazon but they dont offer shipping to my location either.


----------



## BoxGods

Got the following email from Carl Runco:

"Good news. I've had the vpp755 in your monsoon series 2 D5 pump for about 48 hrs of run time at this point and so far I have had no problems. I'm even using the red o-ring. If anything catastrophic happens I'll let you know, but for now it is running perfectly and is inaudible."


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Thats the one site that i checked that had some stock but they refuse to ship to where i live, and have pretty limited stock, not interested in different color parts that dont match either but thanks.
> Yep, I just sent them a webnote got an answer that they forgot to change it must of just done it tonight, was out of stock just a few hours ago, and im gonna order from there now, thanks for noticing tho!
> 
> I made up my order, can someone who has some experience with the MMRS reservoirs take a look if i got everything I need for the res, I got the pump and plugs so I dont need those!
> I dont really want to miss anyting since the delivery is 50€ and the VAT is 20% of the total order so that`s another 30€ so I wouldn`t want to make another order just because i missed something, thank you.


You might want to add some Monsoon stop plugs. I don't think all the 3 ports for the top will be used.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would like to see tri-bar stop plugs based on the anti cavitation insert. Those would be awesomesauce imho.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

I feel dumb but, what is the TRP and what do you mean ceadder

@BoxGods

Not to beat a dead horse, but I really think, esp with the mmrs, you need to update your Web site.

I an sure it Puts off many people from purchasing in this day and age


----------



## Ceadderman

The MMRS has a round tri-bar insert that fits to the pump top or the base cap. Turning out stop plugs with that design would allow users easy access to grip them with fingertips. Geno knows.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I feel dumb but, what is the TRP and what do you mean ceadder
> 
> @BoxGods
> 
> Not to beat a dead horse, but I really think, esp with the mmrs, you need to update your Web site.
> 
> I an sure it Puts off many people from purchasing in this day and age


MMRS-TRP is the D5 end cap.


----------



## Mega Man

Ah ty both vm


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Thats the one site that i checked that had some stock but they refuse to ship to where i live, and have pretty limited stock, not interested in different color parts that dont match either but thanks.
> Yep, I just sent them a webnote got an answer that they forgot to change it must of just done it tonight, was out of stock just a few hours ago, and im gonna order from there now, thanks for noticing tho!
> 
> I made up my order, can someone who has some experience with the MMRS reservoirs take a look if i got everything I need for the res, I got the pump and plugs so I dont need those!
> I dont really want to miss anyting since the delivery is 50€ and the VAT is 20% of the total order so that`s another 30€ so I wouldn`t want to make another order just because i missed something, thank you.


If it's not too late, you may want to get the monsoon dual bulb CCFL light kit. The lights are specially designed to fit on the res mount. Even if you don't think you'll use them now, you could have them for just in case. Save you on shipping fee's if you change your mind later. It happened to me and i regret it.


----------



## Tomiger

Dropping in to share a few photos of my completed build. You can find the full log here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1623129/build-log-splash-no-effect-water-cooled-corsair-540-completed

This was a super long project, mostly due to not having the time to work on it. But big thanks to Gene for constantly helping me out throughout the process, excellent customer support!

In case it's hard to tell via the pictures, I have a tube reservoir (100mm+50mm+100mm configuration) attached to the dual bay reservoir. The end of the tube reservoir is attached to the back of the case, making use of the fill/drain port/cap. Also have 3/8" x 1/2" EV2 fittings and the SAP mounted horizontally by making use of the vertical pump out haha (I needed the pump to be position this way and I couldn't think of another way to achieve that).


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I know its hard to tell by the picture but does anyone know what sort of tension rods and motor cover did the guy use on this reservoir in this picture, it might be from this thread but im not sure.
I think the motor cover is chrome, and I think the tension rods are chrome or black chrome ? This is how I want mine to look like gives me plenty of choices to make it look nice with different colored coolants.


----------



## MuxLee

the pump is the "chrome" version the rods are probably chrome too just bad light










Mux


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I have the feeling the rods are black chrome


----------



## Deedaz

The screws match the rods, and the screws look chrome to me.


----------



## rathar3

Got the 480 waterblock on today : ). do the piping this weekend. Got a 4 pack of tubing just in case










More Monsoon Purple


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I have the feeling the rods are black chrome


I think because they're so thin they just look darker. This is my recently bought and assembled MMRS with a black chrome cover and regular chrome rods. I like how the black chrome cover blends with the end caps.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Your res sure looks pretty, how long is the tube ?


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Your res sure looks pretty, how long is the tube ?


It's the 150mm. So glad it fits in my case nicely. Something about the pump:res size ratio just works. 200mm+ looks too long and 50mm too short (from my super picky aesthetic view, anyway). I don't mind the 100mm's but in my roomy case it would have looked a bit small too.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Lets hope my 300mm one looks half as good and im happy


----------



## BoxGods

Man...this forum 's email post notification is just like a cat. It works well enough that you trust it...but every once in a while it leaves a little present behind the couch just to make you think the poop fairy did it.

I check in several times and there are no new messages...I miss a day or two and BAM...like 10 posts.

The Tension rods in that picture are chrome.

A trident shaped stop plug sounds painful on the fingers.

Did you notice that his build uses a tube reservoir mated to a dual bay M2 reservoir...and that he ran it all the way to the back of his case and has an FDP installed there? How totally freaking cool is that? The entire build is just about as clean and pristine as it gets.


----------



## Ceadderman

No no not trident Geno.









Tri-bar topped. Similar to the shape of the anti cavitation insert in MMRS. Dimples aren't painful.









~Ceadder


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No no not trident Geno.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tri-bar topped. Similar to the shape of the anti cavitation insert in MMRS. Dimples aren't painful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The dimples i knew could be very painful!!! Did not want to make her mad


----------



## Ceadderman

~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> No no not trident Geno.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tri-bar topped. Similar to the shape of the anti cavitation insert in MMRS. Dimples aren't painful.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


You mean the anti-vortex trident


----------



## Ceadderman

Indeed!









Would make a great cap design.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> The dimples i knew could be very painful!!! Did not want to make her mad


Especially if she was facing away









Sorry I simply could not resist


----------



## NeeqOne

what is the height of the Monsoon MMRS D5 Pump Cover in mm?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> what is the height of the Monsoon MMRS D5 Pump Cover in mm?


42mm


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> 42mm


Thanks a lot.


----------



## rathar3

Finished up deep purple today last tube took me 3 hours to get right its the one to the gpu out of the cpu block. A few pics of the piping and the gpu block


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Finished up deep purple today last tube took me 3 hours to get right its the one to the gpu out of the cpu block. A few pics of the piping and the gpu block


Nice work. Is there a twist in the GPU line or is that a trick of the light?


----------



## Ceadderman

Looks like he could use a few more combs or they could be closer together nearer to the card for training purposes and worked toward the PSU bit by bit.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Nice work. Is there a twist in the GPU line or is that a trick of the light?


Trick of the light and pure chance that the return and supply lines matched up.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like he could use a few more combs or they could be closer together nearer to the card for training purposes and worked toward the PSU bit by bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Ya gotta work on that. forgot to add that the old gpu had the plug one way and the new gpu i had to rotate it 180degs so it messed up my cables. And i added 16 gigs of corsair vengeance LPX 3000 white ram. It replaced the kingston 8gigs of value ram.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like he could use a few more combs or they could be closer together nearer to the card for training purposes and worked toward the PSU bit by bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Agreed. I did not want to be critical as overall it is a really nice clean build--the first thing I noticed was the crisp plumbing runs. The second was that most of the wiring seemed a bit limp or lifeless. Not the craftsmanship maybe so much as the quality of the sleeving? Again--not my intention to be critical / mean. If anything it is the quality of all the other workmanship that makes the low sleeving quality stand out.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like he could use a few more combs or they could be closer together nearer to the card for training purposes and worked toward the PSU bit by bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


No, combs need to die


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Looks like he could use a few more combs or they could be closer together nearer to the card for training purposes and worked toward the PSU bit by bit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. I did not want to be critical as overall it is a really nice clean build--the first thing I noticed was the crisp plumbing runs. The second was that most of the wiring seemed a bit limp or lifeless. Not the craftsmanship maybe so much as the quality of the sleeving? Again--not my intention to be critical / mean. If anything it is the quality of all the other workmanship that makes the low sleeving quality stand out.
Click to expand...

Probably just limp wire from the oem cable, can't really do much about it. Mine did the same thing the first time I sleeved the oem cables, then I got stiffer wire and made custom length cables for the S8.

I really love that purple fluid/wiring though. Looks really good in that gpu block.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Probably just limp wire from the oem cable, can't really do much about it. Mine did the same thing the first time I sleeved the oem cables, then I got stiffer wire and made custom length cables for the S8.
> 
> I really love that purple fluid/wiring though. Looks really good in that gpu block.


Thanks i like the purple and white to


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Agreed. I did not want to be critical as overall it is a really nice clean build--the first thing I noticed was the crisp plumbing runs. The second was that most of the wiring seemed a bit limp or lifeless. Not the craftsmanship maybe so much as the quality of the sleeving? Again--not my intention to be critical / mean. If anything it is the quality of all the other workmanship that makes the low sleeving quality stand out.


Thanks Gene. And i take no offense . I am happy with it. the cables are some thing i have to work on. I wanted a clean build and got it. Coming from you and the others on here thats high praise for my first hardline loop


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

I am in the middle of putting together a parts list for my first water cooling build and I have a quick question about the free center compression fittings I thought you guys may be able to help with. Is the inside diameter of these fittings consistent across all sizes? For example is the ID at the threaded G1/4 fitting for 1/2x3/4 the same as a 3/8x 5/8?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> I am in the middle of putting together a parts list for my first water cooling build and I have a quick question about the free center compression fittings I thought you guys may be able to help with. Is the inside diameter of these fittings consistent across all sizes? For example is the ID at the threaded G1/4 fitting for 1/2x3/4 the same as a 3/8x 5/8?


Thread size is all the same G1/4 unless stated in the info. The tubing size is different 1/2x/5/8 1/2X3/4 and so on G1/4 seems to be the standard size for threaded water cooling connection for pumps blocks and Rez housings. What changes is tube/hard line size so a monsoon ev2 1/2x5/8 which is what use has a 1/2 inside diameter tube with a outside diameter of 5/8 and a g1/4 threaded fitting.


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Thread size is all the same G1/4 unless stated in the info. The tubing size is different 1/2x/5/8 1/2X3/4 and so on G1/4 seems to be the standard size for threaded water cooling connection for pumps blocks and Rez housings. What changes is tube/hard line size so a monsoon ev2 1/2x5/8 which is what use has a 1/2 inside diameter tube with a outside diameter of 5/8 and a g1/4 threaded fitting.


I'm reading my original post and I don't think I was clear. I know the thread size is standard for G1/4, but is the inside diameter at the threads also standard across all barb sizes. I guess what I'm getting at is, other than asthestics, why go bigger on inside diameter of the tubing if the inside diameter of fittings is smaller?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> I'm reading my original post and I don't think I was clear. I know the thread size is standard for G1/4, but is the inside diameter at the threads also standard across all barb sizes. I guess what I'm getting at is, other than asthestics, why go bigger on inside diameter of the tubing if the inside diameter of fittings is smaller?


G1/4 is G1/4 diameter dose not change. Tube/Hose diameter is more for looks as in a system as small as a watercooling loop there is not alot to gain by going with bigger or smaller tubes. some say you get better pressure with smaller others say higher flow with bigger i am not sure either is really true. I went with 1/2x5/8 for the looks. smaller diameter soft tubing can fit in tighter spaces and make smaller bends. Larger tubing is more visual but can be harder to work with due to its size and it can kink easier in tight spaces.

the inside of G1/4 never changes its always G1/4 no matter the size of the tubing


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> G1/4 is G1/4 diameter dose not change. Tube/Hose diameter is more for looks as in a system as small as a watercooling loop there is not alot to gain by going with bigger or smaller tubes. some say you get better pressure with smaller others say higher flow with bigger i am not sure either is really true. I went with 1/2x5/8 for the looks. smaller diameter soft tubing can fit in tighter spaces and make smaller bends. Larger tubing is more visual but can be harder to work with due to its size and it can kink easier in tight spaces.
> 
> the inside of G1/4 never changes its always G1/4 no matter the size of the tubing


Thanks for the clarification. I was pretty sure that was the case. Just wanted to make sure before I pull the trigger on my order from PerformancePCs. I am super excited about this build. The Monsoon MMRS is awesome. Now I just have to make a decision on water block and rad.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> Thanks for the clarification. I was pretty sure that was the case. Just wanted to make sure before I pull the trigger on my order from PerformancePCs. I am super excited about this build. The Monsoon MMRS is awesome. Now I just have to make a decision on water block and rad.


Keep in mind there are other sizes IE g3/8 and so on G1/4 is British pipe threads NPT is american pipe thread make sure you get g1/4

Ek makes good water blocks i have their EVO and the gpu for my rx 480

I used a white XSPC 360 rad and i like it read up on all of them online and check other reviews. That will help


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Keep in mind there are other sizes IE g3/8 and so on G1/4 is British pipe threads NPT is american pipe thread make sure you get g1/4
> 
> Ek makes good water blocks i have their EVO and the gpu for my rx 480
> 
> I used a white XSPC 360 rad and i like it read up on all of them online and check other reviews. That will help


I have seen some good things on the XSPC rads. Thinking we will be going XSPC on both rad and CPU block. This is actually a father/son build. Letting my son make a lot of decisions since this will be his PC, we both instantly decided on the MMRS system as soon as we saw it. He is of course wanting the 'bling' and the XSPC CPU block looks pretty awesome. Will probably go with the EK GPU block for the Asus Strix 1080 in the future. Who knows, maybe by the time we get to the GPU Monsoon will be making GPU blocks?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> I have seen some good things on the XSPC rads. Thinking we will be going XSPC on both rad and CPU block. This is actually a father/son build. Letting my son make a lot of decisions since this will be his PC, we both instantly decided on the MMRS system as soon as we saw it. He is of course wanting the 'bling' and the XSPC CPU block looks pretty awesome. Will probably go with the EK GPU block for the Asus Strix 1080 in the future. Who knows, maybe by the time we get to the GPU Monsoon will be making GPU blocks?


XSPC RX series are the only good rads, They other rads XSPC offers are average.

You might want to look into Hardware Labs, Their my go to rads for most of my builds.


----------



## BoxGods

One advantage to larger tube is increased total volume for the loop, Other than that...flow rate and pressure etc. are irrelevant in real world installations.

On the G 1/4 threads, it is actually BSPP and not BSP where that second P stands for parallel. There is another type, BSPT where the T stands for taper--that is the one equivalent to NPT.


----------



## Ceadderman

Just to make thingsure easier for the new guy in the room. If your choice of tubing is metric, go with the 1/2" x 3/4" fittings. Otherwise you'll have a helluva time fitting the collars of the 5/8" fittings around the tubing and mating them to the bases of the fittings. I ran White PrimoChill LRT which is metric and ran face first into this issue with my 1/2" x 5/8" Free Centers.

So make sure you get a tubing that is SAE or go with the larger fitting size.










~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Just to make thingsure easier for the new guy in the room. If your choice of tubing is metric, go with the 1/2" x 3/4" fittings. Otherwise you'll have a helluva time fitting the collars of the 5/8" fittings around the tubing and mating them to the bases of the fittings. I ran White PrimoChill LRT which is metric and ran face first into this issue with my 1/2" x 5/8" Free Centers.
> 
> So make sure you get a tubing that is SAE or go with the larger fitting size.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Or talk sweetly to it...while warming it up a little with a heat gun =)

Cursing can be effective as well


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Or talk sweetly to it...while warming it up a little with a heat gun =)
> 
> Cursing can be effective as well


Sweet talking whatever you're working on to cooperate gets much better looks from significant others as well as friends though ^_^


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Or talk sweetly to it...while warming it up a little with a heat gun =)
> 
> Cursing can be effective as well


I use the oak tree method. Where you just smack your head into the tree until you black out Rinse and repeat.


----------



## Ceadderman

Brick wall method works better and you get that nifty grout imprinted on your forehead too.









For tighter fit tube to barb I go one size small and use boiling water to heat the tubing and with a blue streak push it onto the barb.









~Ceadder


----------



## ruffhi

Put it together outside of your rig and let it sit over night so that it learns what it needs to do. Easier to push onto barb in your rig after that.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Brick wall method works better and you get that nifty grout imprinted on your forehead too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For tighter fit tube to barb I go one size small and use boiling water to heat the tubing and with a blue streak push it onto the barb.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Just like we used to do for our mouth pieces for football and wrestling. Proof that coaches are sadistic SOB's. Picture a pack of 13 year old boys standing in line to "fit" their mouth pieces. A coach uses tongs to pull one out of this big pot of boiling water and you shove it in your mouth and they yell "Bite down and keep biting down till we tell you to stop you little cry babies". One kid after the next for the whole line. After the last kid is done one of the coaches says, "OK...everyone biting down good and hard on their mouth pieces...good...because now we are going to do the "nut cups"" and one of the coaches tosses a few of the cups from athletic supporters into the boiling water.

Scares the crap out of us all of course and the coaching staff laughs itself stupid.


----------



## Recumbent

@Boxgods

Quick question on the fitting stop plugs, are they only being sold in combination with a fitting rather than just the plug and o-ring (like the "generic" ones)? I was likely going to end up with a few extra fittings but having to buy more seemed even more overkill than this build is going to be (if I can ever be home long enough to get it moving that is).

Thanks


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recumbent*
> 
> @Boxgods
> 
> Quick question on the fitting stop plugs, are they only being sold in combination with a fitting rather than just the plug and o-ring (like the "generic" ones)? I was likely going to end up with a few extra fittings but having to buy more seemed even more overkill than this build is going to be (if I can ever be home long enough to get it moving that is).
> 
> Thanks


Sorry but no. I fight with re-sellers about having too many SKU's as it is.


----------



## Recumbent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sorry but no. I fight with re-sellers about having too many SKU's as it is.


Totally understood.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Seriously happy with my mmrs pump/res combo it's even perfectly clean from behind where nobody other than me and my cat will ever see it!


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Seriously happy with my mmrs pump/res combo it's even perfectly clean from behind where nobody other than me and my cat will ever see it!


That looks like a Thermaltake Core P5 you have there. Just so happens to be what I'm building with right now. You plan on posting some pics of your build?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Yep will do once it's ready but it's nothing special just 1 rad a big res 1 cpu and 1 gpu.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Seriously happy with my mmrs pump/res combo it's even perfectly clean from behind where nobody other than me and my cat will ever see it!


I could be wrong...but you may be the first person in here to post a shot of the mounts...I spent a lot of time getting a nice clean design for those...so much appreciated =)

You have a cat? How on earth can you have a cat? Operative word there being "A" cat...as in just one cat...we have 4 or 5 indoor carts, three that hang out at the front door, at least three or four that live on the patio...and my wife feeds at least a dozen that live down the street where one of our neighbors passed away a few years ago.

Then there is the Spike (rescued Pitt Bull who frankly scares the crap out of me) and Sasha...some sort of English Bull dog...and Thor (125 lb German Shepard)...who am I forgetting...Sobe who is over 20 (we thing 22) now and has had two strokes.

One cat...HA


----------



## Ceadderman

My mother does the same but only on her 20 acre spread. She feeds the deer during the winter too.









~Ceadder


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Why does the pit rescue scare you? My last dog was a 105lb American Bull. Only picture I have on my Phone was when she was about 6-7mo old. Great Dog In this photo she was only about 70lbs


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Built a Custom AR-15 named after her


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Built a Custom AR-15 named after her


Sure it wasn't for protection from her?









J/K









We have a Pitt/ Rott cross that will pretty much devour anything an everything. Made the mistake of buying her two squeaky toys the other day. They were toast in minutes. I need to get her a couple rubber bicycle/hand truck tires I think.









Nice rifle though.









~Ceadder


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sure it wasn't for protection from her?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J/K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have a Pitt/ Rott cross that will pretty much devour anything an everything. Made the mistake of buying her two squeaky toys the other day. They were toast in minutes. I need to get her a couple rubber bicycle/hand truck tires I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice rifle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Best chew toys I ever found were Kong Black or the Cow leg bones. She use to eat the entire knuckle off both ends of the bone leaving only thin middle part


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Why does the pit rescue scare you? My last dog was a 105lb American Bull. Only picture I have on my Phone was when she was about 6-7mo old. Great Dog In this photo she was only about 70lbs


He had it pretty bad before we got him. I ran out to his fenced area one evening because of a lot of screaming and yelling. This big white alley cat had the misfortune to hop the back fence and land in Spikes area. He had it backed into a corner by the time I got there and the yard guy was physically restraining my wife because she wanted to run in and try and get the cat out. Spike got the cat in his jaws...let's just say it was a very ugly and traumatic way to go. I have seen dogs going after a cat plenty of times and all of them together times 10 were not as savage.

He seems to be OK around women but has very little regard for men. Not his fault of course--like I said he had it pretty bad before we got him.


----------



## Ceadderman

It's people like that, that gave Pitts a bad rep.

It's not the breed it's the owner.

Fun facts about Pits: Spot from the "Our Gang" series was a Pit. Same for Spuds McKenzie. They're a loving and tolerant breed and when not abused are loyal and protective to a fault. Mine yodel when the baby cries. She gets into his room at night and watches over him if the door isn't fully closed with a click. She's also a mouser of sorts. Whenever she hears one she lays down in the kitchen and guards.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Yeah it was the owners for sure. I live in far South Texas and it is HOT here about 10 months out of the year. In Summer there are maybe 70 - 90 days or so where it is over 100F. Spike was on about 10 feet of REALLY heavy duty chain padlocked to a concrete post and that 10 foot diameter circle was his entire world. No cover for shade. Sometimes he would not be fed for days on end. He paced that circle so much that he wore the ground down 3 or 4 inches so when it rained it filled up with water, and of course thousands of mosquitoes. Half his fur was gone from mange.

My wife would sneak down the alley at night and feed him and Sasha (an English Bulldog) that also lived there. The owner would come home drunk and just beat the hell out of them with a broom stick several times a month. We called the cops but they couldn't or wouldn't do anything about it. My wife just couldn't take it anymore so her and several of her friends were planning to steal the dogs--obviously not a good idea so I just bought them from the guy.

They lived with such irregular feeding / starvation cycles that years later they both still suffer from terrible food anxiety--if breakfast is 10 or 15 minutes late they are trembling. You have to hope that there is a special place in hell for people like that...at least long enough for them to learn how it feels.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Sure it wasn't for protection from her?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J/K
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> We have a Pitt/ Rott cross that will pretty much devour anything an everything. Made the mistake of buying her two squeaky toys the other day. They were toast in minutes. I need to get her a couple rubber bicycle/hand truck tires I think.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice rifle though.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


kong....thats all you need to know...we have three pit mixes and they cant kill the kong balls we bought....for reference one of our pit mixes pulls 100lb logs out of the forest but cant kill that ball


----------



## Revan654

This is pretty much done, I might have to move the PSU from the bottom pedestal to main chamber. Since the PSU not work where I have it now. It might be due to cables are pitched from bottom traveling to the top.

My dual 250 res.

Case: Case-Labs SM8 with Dual Pedestals
Cables: MDPC-X Sleeved (By Me), CableMod for Sata Power, Darkside for PWM cables, & Phobya for 6 channel cables.

Radiators(I know it's beyond overkill in cooling department for hardware I have. The rads were not being used, I put them to use in this rig):

Hardware Labs SR-2 480
Hardware Labs SR-2 240
Hardware Labs SR-2 120
Hardware Labs GTS 360
Hardware Labs GTS 360
XSPC RX 240 V3

Hardware Cooling:

i7 6700k
MSI GTX 1080

Pumps: Dual D5 with Speed Control (BitsPower & EK Pump tops)
Fittings: Bitspower & Barrow
Tubing: EK's ZMT for some of the pedestals (For the very sharp bends & Bitspower 16mm for the rest)


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> This is pretty much done, I might have to move the PSU from the bottom pedestal to main chamber. Since the PSU not work where I have it now. It might be due to cables are pitched from bottom traveling to the top.
> 
> My dual 250 res.
> 
> Case: Case-Labs SM8 with Dual Pedestals
> Cables: MDPC-X Sleeved (By Me), CableMod for Sata Power, Darkside for PWM cables, & Phobya for 6 channel cables.
> 
> Radiators(I know it's beyond overkill in cooling department for hardware I have. The rads were not being used, I put them to use in this rig):
> 
> Hardware Labs SR-2 480
> Hardware Labs SR-2 240
> Hardware Labs SR-2 120
> Hardware Labs GTS 360
> Hardware Labs GTS 360
> XSPC RX 240 V3
> 
> Hardware Cooling:
> 
> i7 6700k
> MSI GTX 1080
> 
> Pumps: Dual D5 with Speed Control (BitsPower & EK Pump tops)
> Fittings: Bitspower & Barrow
> Tubing: EK's ZMT for some of the pedestals (For the very sharp bends & Bitspower 16mm for the rest)


Looks good! And here I thought I was going to be overkill in my next build with 3x360 and 1x140 Radiator for a CPU and Single GPU. Since neither of us will ever need to get our fans over 1000rpm let me know what you think about the ML120's. I keep reading conflicting results about the noise level. From what I can put together is so long as you run them in PWM under 1200rpm they are dead silent but wanted to get your feedback on them as I will be needing 23x120mm and 2 x 140mm of them.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Looks good! And here I thought I was going to be overkill in my next build with 3x360 and 1x140 Radiator for a CPU and Single GPU. Since neither of us will ever need to get our fans over 1000rpm let me know what you think about the ML120's. I keep reading conflicting results about the noise level. From what I can put together is so long as you run them in PWM under 1200rpm they are dead silent but wanted to get your feedback on them as I will be needing 23x120mm and 2 x 140mm of them.


That's nothing you should see my main PC build.

I have ran the ML 120's at 1300 with little to no noise(My Harddrives were still louder). I'm using a PWM fan controller to control them others might have used DC power instead. I have zero problem using them, Plus you get the advantage of running them at lower speed and getting the same results as fans that run at higher speeds.

One other thing I noticed is the CFM is much higher then what Corsair reports, It can hit up to 95 CFM at max setting, where Corsair reports at around 75 to 80. Even at lower rpm you should have a higher CFM rating.


----------



## rathar3

Anyone looking at ryzen for a new build?. I am thinking of doing one once the crap calms down and i can see some real numbers. I do think intel is having some anxiety thoe i been checking various vendors as of late and intel cpus are down in price from 10 to 70 bucks depending on the cpu and vendor.


----------



## Mega Man

I am. Already preordered


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Same here sold my 7700k because F intel that's why.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Anyone looking at ryzen for a new build?. I am thinking of doing one once the crap calms down and i can see some real numbers. I do think intel is having some anxiety thoe i been checking various vendors as of late and intel cpus are down in price from 10 to 70 bucks depending on the cpu and vendor.


Nope, I'm sticking with Intel & my 6950X. I've had bad experience with AMD. I'm not going to chance it again.


----------



## Revan654

Anyone using the 300mm (Standalone, Non MMRS version) CCFL. How bright are they suppose to get? Mine are very dull and it's not even lighting up the case.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Anyone looking at ryzen for a new build?. I am thinking of doing one once the crap calms down and i can see some real numbers. I do think intel is having some anxiety thoe i been checking various vendors as of late and intel cpus are down in price from 10 to 70 bucks depending on the cpu and vendor.
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, I'm sticking with Intel & my 6950X. I've had bad experience with AMD. I'm not going to chance it again.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Same here sold my 7700k because F intel that's why.


right tool right job.

ryzen i have high high high hopes for.

that said they wont be going into my servers till they are proven....


----------



## Ceadderman

Holding off til at least Mid Summer(back to school sales







), so I can see how things shake out. I pounced on previous AMD releases at launch. Won't make that mistake with anyone again. Intel or AMD. I want my parts to work out of the box and for them to live up to the manufacturers claims. Especially when it comes to client builds.









~Ceadder


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Holding off til at least Mid Summer(back to school sales
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ), so I can see how things shake out. I pounced on previous AMD releases at launch. Won't make that mistake with anyone again. Intel or AMD. I want my parts to work out of the box and for them to live up to the manufacturers claims. Especially when it comes to client builds.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Same here. I want the dust to shake out waited on my skylake build .Want to do a small micro build this time and put it under water. Some one has to keep Gene in business making PETG tubing


----------



## rathar3

I just found this for my motherboard http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-fb-asus-z170s-monoblock-nickel.html. are these worth it ?


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Its only for looks z170 does not get anything out of watercooled vrm on motherboards. And resale value is pretty much 0 so you decide, if looks is wort the 100+ for you.
Cpu temp should be about what u get with cpu only blocks


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Has anyone used the 300mm reservoir with the 50mm mounts? I'm wondering if that would be too much weight on mounts that long. I'll be using the SAP pump mount directly under this reservoir as well, so no pump weight on the reservoir mounts. I'm probably over thinking this. Also, I'm planning on going with the EV2 3/8 X 1/2 fittings, but I don't see a 45 degree with light port for the this fitting anywhere. Does this fitting exist?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> Has anyone used the 300mm reservoir with the 50mm mounts? I'm wondering if that would be too much weight on mounts that long. I'll be using the SAP pump mount directly under this reservoir as well, so no pump weight on the reservoir mounts. I'm probably over thinking this. Also, I'm planning on going with the EV2 3/8 X 1/2 fittings, but I don't see a 45 degree with light port for the this fitting anywhere. Does this fitting exist?


The mounts are pretty strong, should be ok. The light ports don't come in the smaller size because the fitting is physically too small.


----------



## tintreach

MMRS stuff inbound....... goodbye XSPC rez!!!


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The mounts are pretty strong, should be ok. The light ports don't come in the smaller size because the fitting is physically too small.


I'll be going with the 5/8 version then. I don't think 1/16 of an inch will be all that visible as for aesthetics on one fitting. This will be used as a drain port off the pump.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Looks good! And here I thought I was going to be overkill in my next build with 3x360 and 1x140 Radiator for a CPU and Single GPU. Since neither of us will ever need to get our fans over 1000rpm let me know what you think about the ML120's. I keep reading conflicting results about the noise level. From what I can put together is so long as you run them in PWM under 1200rpm they are dead silent but wanted to get your feedback on them as I will be needing 23x120mm and 2 x 140mm of them.


And with all that he could still move a family of four into all that left over space...that is not a case...it is a condo


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> Has anyone used the 300mm reservoir with the 50mm mounts? I'm wondering if that would be too much weight on mounts that long. I'll be using the SAP pump mount directly under this reservoir as well, so no pump weight on the reservoir mounts. I'm probably over thinking this. Also, I'm planning on going with the EV2 3/8 X 1/2 fittings, but I don't see a 45 degree with light port for the this fitting anywhere. Does this fitting exist?


What DeeDaz said...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Anyone using the 300mm (Standalone, Non MMRS version) CCFL. How bright are they suppose to get? Mine are very dull and it's not even lighting up the case.


Pretty bright. What inverter are you using? Takes a bit to drive the longer bulbs.


----------



## BoxGods

I have had another customer report that the Alphacool 755 works just fine with MMRS. That is the 4th or 5th one to report back no issues so I think it is safe to say yes it does work.

_*Hi,

I'm happy to report mine indeed works with the enclosed o-ring with the D5 end cap. Works with either o-ring but I kept the thin one enclosed with the top on. I think those who tried it and it didnt work used the old method of putting the ring on the lip of the pump and not seating it into the housing as is expected for this method. But I've been using Monsoon rez's ever since the first Monsoon dual bay rez several years ago I even still on a V2 Monsoon dual bay rez but as my case is optical bay free I cant use it. Made a great case for me spending the $$ on the MMRS lol.

Thanks Again

Kevin*_


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have had another customer report that the Alphacool 755 works just fine with MMRS. That is the 4th or 5th one to report back no issues so I think it is safe to say yes it does work.
> 
> _*Hi,
> 
> I'm happy to report mine indeed works with the enclosed o-ring with the D5 end cap. Works with either o-ring but I kept the thin one enclosed with the top on. I think those who tried it and it didnt work used the old method of putting the ring on the lip of the pump and not seating it into the housing as is expected for this method. But I've been using Monsoon rez's ever since the first Monsoon dual bay rez several years ago I even still on a V2 Monsoon dual bay rez but as my case is optical bay free I cant use it. Made a great case for me spending the $$ on the MMRS lol.
> 
> Thanks Again
> 
> Kevin*_


The 755 should all work now, Since AlphaCool has released Rev 2 (Version 2). It's now the same size as the normal D5 pumps. As long as you buy Rev 2 you should be good to good with SAP or TRP.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Pretty bright. What inverter are you using? Takes a bit to drive the longer bulbs.


I'm using the one you sell (The 4 plug version) x 2. Four on the dual 250 Res & two at the top of my case 300mm. I would have put one at the bottom & one at the top. However the wires for the CCFL are to short to reach the top of my case.

I haven't had much time to play around with that PC. Since I had to move onto my next PC build. I might add two more CCFL at the bottom with a separate inverter when I get some extra time.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> MMRS stuff inbound....... goodbye XSPC rez!!!


I just noticed that they released a new version of that res. I did have the old one, I liked the glass part but the rest of the res felt cheap. Hopefully one day, MonSoon will add glass tubes to their MMRS system.

The only real problem I'm having with MMRS (Not sure if it's even a MMRS issue) is the temp readouts from my temp probes. The temps are all over the place, I'm thinking the flow might be to strong at that part of the res, which is causing the problem. I have two D5 pumps running at the speed setting of 2.


----------



## NetopyrMan

guys pls, is tis mountable with the pump on top?

edit: i mean res+pump combo


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NetopyrMan*
> 
> guys pls, is tis mountable with the pump on top?
> 
> edit: i mean res+pump combo


If your saying the pump on top of res= no. If you mean on its side on the top of your case= yes. The pump pulls water in from the center and needs to be fed. If the pump is upside down it wont work and will damage the pump. This is true with all D5


----------



## NetopyrMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> If your saying the pump on top of res= no


thats all what i need







thanks


----------



## Mega Man

you can put the pump on the top..... with the pump up. it isnt recommended due to bleeding it


----------



## NetopyrMan

yea i though that


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I just noticed that they released a new version of that res. I did have the old one, I liked the glass part but the rest of the res felt cheap. Hopefully one day, MonSoon will add glass tubes to their MMRS system.
> 
> The only real problem I'm having with MMRS (Not sure if it's even a MMRS issue) is the temp readouts from my temp probes. The temps are all over the place, I'm thinking the flow might be to strong at that part of the res, which is causing the problem. I have two D5 pumps running at the speed setting of 2.


The probes are sensitive and have fast response time so if you are seeing the temps jump around you may be sampling too often (aka at too short of an interval). The probes are essentially "dumb" so you most likely have to lower the sample rate and use a filter (averaging) in the device you are using to process the data. I can't say exactly how to change the settings as each device is different, but look for terms like poll rate, sample rate,
averaging etc.

I can add glass reservoir tubes no problem. Just not sure anyone would buy them--not in enough quantity to make it worth while anyway.


----------



## Mega Man

i would


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I can add glass reservoir tubes no problem. Just not sure anyone would buy them--not in enough quantity to make it worth while anyway.


As someone who's doing a full glass tube loop I would have loved my 150mm MMRS to be glass too.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The probes are sensitive and have fast response time so if you are seeing the temps jump around you may be sampling too often (aka at too short of an interval). The probes are essentially "dumb" so you most likely have to lower the sample rate and use a filter (averaging) in the device you are using to process the data. I can't say exactly how to change the settings as each device is different, but look for terms like poll rate, sample rate,
> averaging etc.
> 
> I can add glass reservoir tubes no problem. Just not sure anyone would buy them--not in enough quantity to make it worth while anyway.


It just seems odd (They were working just fine before I moved some parts around), The probes were just moved from from a rad to the res. Not sure if it's a aquero 6 XT issue or maybe probes are not fully working. I have them at a bad place where they can't just be unplugged (At the bottom). I'll try plugging them into my motherboard when I get a chance to see if the readout is any different.

I'm thinking the pressure might be to strong, which is causing the problem.

I'm betting it would do well, I know some companies only have glass res and they sell very well. Acrylic tubes just scratch up to easily, Which is why I like using glass tubes over acrylic.

If I every re-Do my tubing, I'm going to do a pure Glass tubing build.


----------



## Ceadderman

I would do glass but frosted. Black Res piece wouldn't be able to be borosilicate so mine would hafta be half an half.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mad Monk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanick*
> 
> As someone who's doing a full glass tube loop I would have loved my 150mm MMRS to be glass too.












@sanick,

At the risk of going off topic, two questions please:

How do you plan on connections to your resivour; if you plan on one?

If you are going to bend the tube what is your heat source: propane, MAP, or... ?

Background

I've sourced 1/2' OD lab quality glass tubing for cheaper than a well known computer specific UK based provider is selling it for. Back in my well spent youth I was a TA and ended up bending a wee bit of glass. The idea of doing a copper glass build has great appeal so your post is of significant interest to me. As would be Monsoon offering glass reservoirs; hint hint.









Permit me a parting thought on bending glass -- Rule one of making custom lab glassware -- hot glass looks exactly like cold glass.







Yes, I had to learn that the hard way.









Cheers,

Mad Monk
PS: @BoxGods,

Once the technique of cutting glass tube is learned even I can do it (wear heavy gloves.) The resivour tops and connections to them is the rub for my limited skills. Perhaps a stock pile of uncut / sized tubing and tops secured as you do, but limited to O rings and rods would keep your costs within reason. Basically, measure, score and snap then fire polish to smooth. Just a thought.


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Monk*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you plan on connections to your resivour; if you plan on one?
> If you are going to bend the tube what is your heat source: propane, MAP, or... ?


I'll just come out of the MMRS pump top with a regular compression fitting. One of the things that made my choice to go with glass so easy is that I never wanted to bend tubing. I know it hurts the flow but I love the look of perfectly angled straight tubing connected with fittings.


----------



## Mad Monk

_"I'll just come out of the MMRS pump top with a regular compression fitting. One of the things that made my choice to go with glass so easy is that I never wanted to bend tubing. I know it hurts the flow but I love the look of perfectly angled straight tubing connected with fittings."_

sanick,

Thank you.








Nice looking build.









Cheers,

Mad Monk


----------



## rathar3

Hey Gene are there any monsoon tshirts? i have never seen any?


----------



## Unnatural

Does anybody know if the Alphacool Aurora LED ring (60 mm) is compatible with the MMRS?


----------



## TOOLP

It doesn't fit because of the tention rods. As an Alternertive you can diy it with a normal led strip.
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2527-gigantea-cm-elite-130-casemodcompleted/&do=findComment&comment=46830


----------



## Unnatural

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> It doesn't fit because of the tention rods. As an Alternertive you can diy it with a normal led strip.
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php?/topic/2527-gigantea-cm-elite-130-casemodcompleted/&do=findComment&comment=46830


Thanks, that clearance was exactly what I was afraid of.


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Thanks, that clearance was exactly what I was afraid of.


Not sure how you got your's set up. I went with a 3 port top cap w/ side ports. I may have all 3 leds in the top cap this weekend after I do some upgrades but you can shoot a lot of light into the rez from there and even with just 1.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mad Monk*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @sanick,
> 
> At the risk of going off topic, two questions please:
> 
> How do you plan on connections to your resivour; if you plan on one?
> 
> If you are going to bend the tube what is your heat source: propane, MAP, or... ?
> 
> Background
> 
> I've sourced 1/2' OD lab quality glass tubing for cheaper than a well known computer specific UK based provider is selling it for. Back in my well spent youth I was a TA and ended up bending a wee bit of glass. The idea of doing a copper glass build has great appeal so your post is of significant interest to me. As would be Monsoon offering glass reservoirs; hint hint.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Permit me a parting thought on bending glass -- Rule one of making custom lab glassware -- hot glass looks exactly like cold glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I had to learn that the hard way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Mad Monk
> PS: @BoxGods,
> 
> Once the technique of cutting glass tube is learned even I can do it (wear heavy gloves.) The resivour tops and connections to them is the rub for my limited skills. Perhaps a stock pile of uncut / sized tubing and tops secured as you do, but limited to O rings and rods would keep your costs within reason. Basically, measure, score and snap then fire polish to smooth. Just a thought.


I will just use a glass company so the ends are polished and perfect.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene are there any monsoon tshirts? i have never seen any?


Where do you put then inside your build? Kidding aside, we will have some T's and apparel when we launch the boat/s.


----------



## rathar3

Ordered some primochill customs cables today to replace mine. they will be purple and white. hope they look better than the ones i have now.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Just finished my P5 build for ryzen 1700, if anyone has doubts about wich resses to go for, I can say MMRS is just awesome!





alphacool monsta 560
4x phanteks f140mp
mmrs 300mm res
alphacool d5 mcp655 vario
barrow fittings
ek zmt ( never again )
ek fc acetal ( 980ti )
ek supremacy evo (ryzen 1700)
distilled water
2 temp sensors


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Just finished my P5 build for ryzen 1700, if anyone has doubts about wich resses to go for, I can say MMRS is just awesome!


Looks great and kudos on doing a nice job with soft tubing.


----------



## geox19

It's so nice to be able to buy Monsoon products on amazon hate paying the shipping price from the other guys... titan Rig seems to be stocking a lot more Monsoon products now. It's fun reading the reviews though. I have to think the reviews can't be for the right products or the people writing the reviews maybe shouldn't be water cooling. Poly-carbonate locking collars that are fragile huh? the pump cover sucks... might leak if the water gets past the O ring. Um Duh


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> It's so nice to be able to buy Monsoon products on amazon hate paying the shipping price from the other guys... titan Rig seems to be stocking a lot more Monsoon products now. It's fun reading the reviews though. I have to think the reviews can't be for the right products or the people writing the reviews maybe shouldn't be water cooling. Poly-carbonate locking collars that are fragile huh? the pump cover sucks... might leak if the water gets past the O ring. Um Duh


I like reviews but take them with a grain of salt. Read a review for a asus 990 sabertooth MB. I had the same board and the guy was flipping out because it would not boot. It hung on boot. I posted that you had to to hit mem ok button first time it started and anytime you changed ram. He came back and told me i was a idiot and thats bull****. I dunno how many people told him same thing and he finally did it and it worked.

Yes its fairly easy to build a pc. Its becoming easier every day thanks to youtube and review sites and people like Gene that come on these forums to help us. But my god some people should be banned from any tools for life!!! to many people watch youtube and say thats easy till it shows up in pieces and they freak out. Then when it does not go right it has to be defective. Sure they need hammer to seat the CPU and they dont know about thermal paste but caulking looks the same. Or the people that think that old AGP video card will fit with a little more force.

When all else fails READ THE DIRECTIONS !!!!!

PS not everyone on youtube is sane !!!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Just finished my P5 build for ryzen 1700, if anyone has doubts about wich resses to go for, I can say MMRS is just awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> alphacool monsta 560
> 4x phanteks f140mp
> mmrs 300mm res
> alphacool d5 mcp655 vario
> barrow fittings
> ek zmt ( never again )
> ek fc acetal ( 980ti )
> ek supremacy evo (ryzen 1700)
> distilled water
> 2 temp sensors


Wow...just wow. Not only an awesome build but excellent pictures which is not easy. The textured wallpaper in the background is a perfect counterpoint.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> It's so nice to be able to buy Monsoon products on amazon hate paying the shipping price from the other guys... titan Rig seems to be stocking a lot more Monsoon products now. It's fun reading the reviews though. I have to think the reviews can't be for the right products or the people writing the reviews maybe shouldn't be water cooling. Poly-carbonate locking collars that are fragile huh? the pump cover sucks... might leak if the water gets past the O ring. Um Duh


Yeah what the hell is up with the reviews? I have tried to contact some of the people to see if I can resolve whatever their issue is and *none* of them ever respond or get back to me. Our pump cover is awesome. We switched from acrylic lock collars like 18 months ago and haven't had a single issue since. Just kills me and there is nothing I can really do about it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> I like reviews but take them with a grain of salt. Read a review for a asus 990 sabertooth MB. I had the same board and the guy was flipping out because it would not boot. It hung on boot. I posted that you had to to hit mem ok button first time it started and anytime you changed ram. He came back and told me i was a idiot and thats bull****. I dunno how many people told him same thing and he finally did it and it worked.
> 
> Yes its fairly easy to build a pc. Its becoming easier every day thanks to youtube and review sites and people like Gene that come on these forums to help us. But my god some people should be banned from any tools for life!!! to many people watch youtube and say thats easy till it shows up in pieces and they freak out. Then when it does not go right it has to be defective. Sure they need hammer to seat the CPU and they dont know about thermal paste but caulking looks the same. Or the people that think that old AGP video card will fit with a little more force.
> 
> When all else fails READ THE DIRECTIONS !!!!!
> 
> PS not everyone on youtube is sane !!!


And have you noticed that it seems like the ones most likely to not read the directions and do something wrong are the ones most likely to post complaints that go right to the nuclear option?


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> And have you noticed that it seems like the ones most likely to not read the directions and do something wrong are the ones most likely to post complaints that go right to the nuclear option?


As the saying goes you cant cure stupid. On the topic of Amazon reviews do yourself a favor and look up sugar free gummy bear reviews. After you read a few you will see there are far worse thubgs people could write about a product


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> And have you noticed that it seems like the ones most likely to not read the directions and do something wrong are the ones most likely to post complaints that go right to the nuclear option?


And on newegg just about everyone that whines is a IT/electronics/master with 37 and a 1/2 degrees and build all the pc's for the pharaohs of egypt


----------



## Ceadderman

Or the people who write the reviews are not verified customers. I swear. About half the reviews for Crosshair VI Hero aren't verified. So not only does it skew the result, it can make or break whether an item sells.









~Ceadder


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Just finished my P5 build for ryzen 1700, if anyone has doubts about wich resses to go for, I can say MMRS is just awesome!
> 
> 
> 
> alphacool monsta 560
> 4x phanteks f140mp
> mmrs 300mm res
> alphacool d5 mcp655 vario
> barrow fittings
> ek zmt ( never again )
> ek fc acetal ( 980ti )
> ek supremacy evo (ryzen 1700)
> distilled water
> 2 temp sensors


Saw this in the P5 thread too. Good stuff.

How did you mount the pump? Just use hardware that came with P5 or did it require something else? Thanks.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Its all the monsoon MMRS parts pumptop, mounting brackets, pump cover and so on, great stuff


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Ok. Yeah I think I'm going to spring for this http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-vertical-mount-rd.html#Specifications

Though I also saw this on xtremerigs: https://i0.wp.com/www.xtremerigs.net/wp-content/uploads/Pumps&Tops/Monsoon_MMRS_Res-TRP_D5_Top_Combo/MMRS-TRP-D5-End-Cap-PS1-208-1024x689.jpg?resize=640%2C431

Smaller profile but not sure where they got the black angles from:


----------



## tintreach

Here is a little peek of some of the stuff I am playing with currently. I've spent a week messing with leds and light plugs. Almost ready to put all together and quit fiddling after one more test with some new leds. Gene's narrow leds are a force to be reckoned with and put all my RGB ones to shame due to the focus angle. Unfortunately all I could get were the blue ones and unable to source red's as backup if the RGB don't work out.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Here is a little peek of some of the stuff I am playing with currently. I've spent a week messing with leds and light plugs. Almost ready to put all together and quit fiddling after one more test with some new leds. Gene's narrow leds are a force to be reckoned with and put all my RGB ones to shame due to the focus angle. Unfortunately all I could get were the blue ones and unable to source red's as backup if the RGB don't work out.


That's a sexy blue!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Here is a little peek of some of the stuff I am playing with currently. I've spent a week messing with leds and light plugs. Almost ready to put all together and quit fiddling after one more test with some new leds. Gene's narrow leds are a force to be reckoned with and put all my RGB ones to shame due to the focus angle. Unfortunately all I could get were the blue ones and unable to source red's as backup if the RGB don't work out.


Don't feel bad as I couldn't find an LED with a narrow enough focus anywhere so we had to have them custom made.


----------



## rathar3

Nice : ). got my new cables today and got them in took a few pics




Think this looks a lot better than the old ones and i like the color mix of purple and white.


----------



## Deedaz

I love the purple and white! Nice work


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I love the purple and white! Nice work


thanks Deedaz seems everyone does blue or red. Plus purple and white are my old high school colors and this year is my 35th year high school reunion BLEH i feel old


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> That's a sexy blue!


YA it sure is what is that electric blue UV?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I love the purple and white! Nice work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks Deedaz seems everyone does blue or red. Plus purple and white are my old high school colors and this year is my 35th year high school reunion BLEH i feel old
Click to expand...

My original plan for the S8 was a purple and white build. Even had a psu and made cables for it. Next build will be purple and white I guess


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> thanks Deedaz seems everyone does blue or red. Plus purple and white are my old high school colors and this year is my 35th year high school reunion BLEH i feel old


Those cables for sure have a lot more life.

I am almost as old...like 32nd or 33rd reunion...if my school were still around that is. It closed in 1998 GO APACHES!


----------



## havoc315

Here's what I've gotten done so far with monsoons beautiful pumps, tubing fittings and man's did those mandrels save me lol, I had to redo my tubing because I received old fittings with acrylic lock collars but they monsoon sent me more and more glue







was really happy about that.
But here's a few pics of what I did and still not done I have to wait to finish because the cables I have are not the right fit so getting some more to make my own, open to suggestions and open to different layout, still trtingnto get aquaero working lol.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Here's what I've gotten done so far with monsoons beautiful pumps, tubing fittings and man's did those mandrels save me lol, I had to redo my tubing because I received old fittings with acrylic lock collars but they monsoon sent me more and more glue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was really happy about that.
> But here's a few pics of what I did and still not done I have to wait to finish because the cables I have are not the right fit so getting some more to make my own, open to suggestions and open to different layout, still trtingnto get aquaero working lol.


Looking good! How's the angle of the tube coming from the res to the video card? Looks a little off from the pictures?? Maybe a spacer is needed? or is it straight on? Love the bends on the output of the reserviors


----------



## tintreach

Progress is slowly been made. Swapped out all the light ports to monsoon's and hooked up some test lights to the rez. I'm going to wire up all the blue lights tomorrow and take a proper pic without the RGB just to document how awesome it looks. Still waiting for another batch of test leds for RGB testing/


----------



## havoc315

Its right on, there is one that is off and its the one going from the pass-through to the vortex but the problem is the angled fitting is sitting on a pass-through that is not all the way tightened because of how i cut the hole in through 2 pieces of the case, when i drain the loop to add the perm water and do my wiring ill go in and fix it. Thanks those bends were not the easiest to make lol i actually tried did it perfect by hand the first time but i had to redo them because the lock collars were the acrylic so second time i had to use something to help and adjust by hand after. All in all it was a pretty fun build to do but I'm not done yet, but i do have it up and running at the moment although i cant get my Aquaero to work on the fans though idk, I'm trying to find out in the forums so ill figure it out.
One other thing I'm having problems with the funnel effect in my rez though when i open my pumps all the way, is there anything i can add to fix it .


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> One other thing I'm having problems with the funnel effect in my rez though when i open my pumps all the way, is there anything i can add to fix it .


I had a kick ass vortex too ... looked spectacular but not good for your pumps.

You need one of these ... http://www.performance-pcs.com/mmrs-push-in-anti-vortex-trident-two-pack-black.html


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I had a kick ass vortex too ... looked spectacular but not good for your pumps.
> 
> You need one of these ... http://www.performance-pcs.com/mmrs-push-in-anti-vortex-trident-two-pack-black.html


I did not know they were bad for your pump, would not have installed it had i known that, i have a aquacomputer HF flow meter but its on my cpu loop and wanted a visual for gpu loop.
Awesome thanks, i had purchased one of those originally but i noticed that the stand alone pump base has one screwed into the base, could i still use that push in like at the top or something or replace the one that is screwed in, because the right res is coming in from the front and its making it spin really bad when higher speeds. Could i use two, one in the top and one in the bottom? I think they have done a great job with their product line and it is all so beautiful and fits together perfectly and can choose how and what exactly you want instead of a cookie cutter type design that everyone else has, I esp the way the lock collars work with the fittings it gives me peace of mind knowing that there is something more than just rubber keeping my tubes in because u never know if while you are inside your case altering something and accidentally bump it if it will pull out.


----------



## ruffhi

I have a mid res coupling with the water coming in from the side. I pushed one of the tridents in and it totally killed the vortex (pic / vid of vortex somewhere in my Liquorice Allsorts log - if interested).


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Progress is slowly been made. Swapped out all the light ports to monsoon's and hooked up some test lights to the rez. I'm going to wire up all the blue lights tomorrow and take a proper pic without the RGB just to document how awesome it looks. Still waiting for another batch of test leds for RGB testing/


Res is looking good. What coolant are you running in there?


----------



## Mad Monk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Here's what I've gotten done so far with monsoons beautiful pumps, tubing fittings and man's did those mandrels save me lol, I had to redo my tubing because I received old fittings with acrylic lock collars but they monsoon sent me more and more glue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was really happy about that.
> But here's a few pics of what I did and still not done I have to wait to finish because the cables I have are not the right fit so getting some more to make my own, open to suggestions and open to different layout, still trtingnto get aquaero working lol.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Its right on, there is one that is off and its the one going from the pass-through to the vortex but the problem is the angled fitting is sitting on a pass-through that is not all the way tightened because of how i cut the hole in through 2 pieces of the case, when i drain the loop to add the perm water and do my wiring ill go in and fix it. Thanks those bends were not the easiest to make lol i actually tried did it perfect by hand the first time but i had to redo them because the lock collars were the acrylic so second time i had to use something to help and adjust by hand after. All in all it was a pretty fun build to do but I'm not done yet, but i do have it up and running at the moment although i cant get my Aquaero to work on the fans though idk, I'm trying to find out in the forums so ill figure it out.
> One other thing I'm having problems with the funnel effect in my rez though when i open my pumps all the way, is there anything i can add to fix it .


Havoc,

Good day to you. A very nice build.









There are known issues with certain fans and the Aquero. Perhaps this may be able to help: http://www.overclock.net/t/1474470/ocn-aquaero-owners-club/50_50. Starting at post #56. Hope it helps.

Cheers,

Mad Monk


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> thanks Deedaz seems everyone does blue or red. Plus purple and white are my old high school colors and this year is my 35th year high school reunion BLEH i feel old
> 
> 
> 
> Those cables for sure have a lot more life.
> 
> I am almost as old...like 32nd or 33rd reunion...if my school were still around that is. It closed in 1998 GO APACHES!
Click to expand...

Hahaha you're only a smidgen older than me. This is my 30 year in June. Go Bears!









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

I see your deckbox is up on ppcs now.







Weird that is says the brand is syba...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I see your deckbox is up on ppcs now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Weird that is says the brand is syba...


Wow...thanks for pointing that out...WTH is Syba?

We are also going to have a SEER booth at the Orlando Grand Prix the 24th-26th for any of you Magic players =)

Turns out Performance PC's has some TCG people working there as they sold quite a few in house when the shipment arrived and my buddy Jeff was crowing that purple was the favorite (he campaigned really hard for purple to be included in the first production run)









Also, it would be a big help for our little company if you guys helped spread the word about SEER on your social media.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Wow...thanks for pointing that out...WTH is Syba?
> 
> We are also going to have a SEER booth at the Orlando Grand Prix the 24th-26th for any of you Magic players =)
> 
> Turns out Performance PC's has some TCG people working there as they sold quite a few in house when the shipment arrived and my buddy Jeff was crowing that purple was the favorite (he campaigned really hard for purple to be included in the first production run)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, it would be a big help for our little company if you guys helped spread the word about SEER on your social media.


Uh what are these boxes Gene?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Uh what are these boxes Gene?


Kind of a long story and I don't want to go all Oprah, but about 6 - 8 months back my adult son whom I had not seen since he was about 2 years old found me online and as we were getting to know each other he was telling me about his hobby--trading card games like Magic: The Gathering etc.--and showed me a deck box design he was working on. He kept sending me these little back of the napkin sketches so I drew up some ideas in Solidworks and did a few renders and we tinkered on the design for a while. Having a "project" kind of made it easier to talk to each other. We went on to do a production run of a deck box called the SEER.

http://www.boxgods.com/


----------



## CrazyCreator

@BoxGods
Can you make the Seer a little bit bigger? If yes, we have a great beautiful new Case for Modding and assembly all the Monsoon Stuff. What do you think?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> @BoxGods
> Can you make the Seer a little bit bigger? If yes, we have a great beautiful new Case for Modding and assembly all the Monsoon Stuff. What do you think?


It does sort of look like a PC case now that you mention it









I actually was thinking of making a molded high end ultra light all carbon fiber case. Maybe mix in some sculpted aluminum.


----------



## CrazyCreator

as PC-Case or for your Card SideProject?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazyCreator*
> 
> as PC-Case or for your Card SideProject?


As a PC case...the deck box was just a side project.


----------



## tintreach

Sorry for the state of this rig but it has literally become a lighting test bench this week. Did a quickie on the phone just for this. It still has 4 more leds to go in the loop. Then I can move back to the strips and fans and clean it all up.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Looks good.... What RGB Plugs/Fittings are you using and what are you using to control them?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Sorry for the state of this rig but it has literally become a lighting test bench this week. Did a quickie on the phone just for this. It still has 4 more leds to go in the loop. Then I can move back to the strips and fans and clean it all up.


How cool is THAT?


----------



## CrazyCreator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> As a PC case...the deck box was just a side project.


I think aluminium is the better option. aluminium can warms better transport. but for optic carbon is a good choice.

how is your first picture for us


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Awwwww, no orange option on the Seer... On the flipside though, hubby was all "oooh, it's available in purple, now if only we still played M:TG"

Definitely gorgeous though!


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Kind of a long story and I don't want to go all Oprah, but about 6 - 8 months back my adult son whom I had not seen since he was about 2 years old found me online and as we were getting to know each other he was telling me about his hobby--trading card games like Magic: The Gathering etc.--and showed me a deck box design he was working on. He kept sending me these little back of the napkin sketches so I drew up some ideas in Solidworks and did a few renders and we tinkered on the design for a while. Having a "project" kind of made it easier to talk to each other. We went on to do a production run of a deck box called the SEER.
> 
> http://www.boxgods.com/


Thats Nice







as i have zero kids but i do dote on my niece and nephews alot.

Anyone ever play around around with a raspberry pi. Just got mine today after waiting a extra 2 days due to the storm bleh


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Looks good.... What RGB Plugs/Fittings are you using and what are you using to control them?


They are Monsoon plugs. I started of with Monsoon light ports and kept testing plug after plug and settled back on Monsoon plugs. They are the only ones that are clear for the exception of a barrow plug I haven't tried yet. Any diffusion will hurt the luminosity at this point due to the limitations of the leds being used. That particular controller is a ATTiny85 and all the light programming is being done in python. I've got 2 more to play with and that will be arduino and c programming.

The whole RGB thing never did anything for me since it was "Hey lets do the same function on all the lights" I used to do dj, lighting and audio in clubs and big events so eye candy is an old past time of mine. When I started building this rig I invested pretty heavy in some NZXT stuff as it was towards the stuff I wanted to do but it is really limited due to what they let you have in CAM. So far I am really pleased with what I got working and how it works. Looks to me to be few steps ahead of what everyone else is doing and I couldn't have done it with out Gene's stuff.... it is what originally sparked the idea to jump off the deep end with RGB.

Give me a few weeks and I'll have a big article put together going in depth on what I've done and spread the knowledge around.


----------



## Recumbent

@BoxGods is there a picture showing the colour difference (assuming there is one) between the Black Chrome and Chrome chain gun fittings. The ones I've seen all look like there is no difference at all (appears to be the same shot). I was originally going to use the white but motherboard arrived and it is a lot less white than I thought with more chrome, and everyone is out of stock of the white fittings.....


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recumbent*
> 
> @BoxGods is there a picture showing the colour difference (assuming there is one) between the Black Chrome and Chrome chain gun fittings. The ones I've seen all look like there is no difference at all (appears to be the same shot). I was originally going to use the white but motherboard arrived and it is a lot less white than I thought with more chrome, and everyone is out of stock of the white fittings.....


The black chrome and regular chrome look fairly close under the super bright lights used for product shots taken in a photo booth because they tend to be the color of what they are reflecting--if they are inside a white booth they look brighter.

In darker environments with more "stuff" to reflect the black chrome gets darker faster if that makes sense.


----------



## Recumbent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The black chrome and regular chrome look fairly close under the super bright lights used for product shots taken in a photo booth because they tend to be the color of what they are reflecting--if they are inside a white booth they look brighter.
> 
> In darker environments with more "stuff" to reflect the black chrome gets darker faster if that makes sense.


Makes sense. So with the white tubing the black chrome should work better right?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recumbent*
> 
> Makes sense. So with the white tubing the black chrome should work better right?


That is pretty much a blonds vs brunets question--meaning it is subjective and depends on your personal preference. I can quantify your choices a bit more tho if that helps. If you are trying to match chrome elements on your motherboard chrome fittings would be a better choice. If you are looking for more contrast against white tube black chrome would be better. If you want less contrast, (a more monochromatic look) then the chrome is better as it will tend to mirror the white back.

If you are asking for a personal opinion...the amount of color on the chain gun fittings is relatively small because the top and bottom rings are the matte black which makes them an excellent place to bring in your accent or "pop" color.


----------



## Recumbent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you are asking for a personal opinion...the amount of color on the chain gun fittings is relatively small because the top and bottom rings are the matte black which makes them an excellent place to bring in your accent or "pop" color.


That's sort of what I thought. Of course everyone is now out of the Black Chrome too. PPC went from good stock to out in a few hours yesterday. Will need to wait a few weeks for their next order to get in as Titan was also out.


----------



## side37

I'm trying to use a switch on the 2 bulb Monsoon CCFL inverter and am finding that it is not working as I'd expect. I removed the jumper and plugged the switch cable in it's place but breaking the circuit doesn't actually turn it off, the CCFL just dimms and flickers a bit? Even if I just remove the jumper and have nothing connected the CCFL is still on but the inverter makes a high pitched squeal.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recumbent*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you are asking for a personal opinion...the amount of color on the chain gun fittings is relatively small because the top and bottom rings are the matte black which makes them an excellent place to bring in your accent or "pop" color.
> 
> 
> 
> That's sort of what I thought. Of course everyone is now out of the Black Chrome too. PPC went from good stock to out in a few hours yesterday. Will need to wait a few weeks for their next order to get in as Titan was also out.
Click to expand...

Did you check amazon? Titan RIg has a lot of monsoon stuff now.


----------



## Recumbent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Did you check amazon? Titan RIg has a lot of monsoon stuff now.


Yup....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recumbent*
> 
> Titan was also out.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recumbent*
> 
> That's sort of what I thought. Of course everyone is now out of the Black Chrome too. PPC went from good stock to out in a few hours yesterday. Will need to wait a few weeks for their next order to get in as Titan was also out.


If you email [email protected] they can check on who is getting what shipped and when.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *side37*
> 
> I'm trying to use a switch on the 2 bulb Monsoon CCFL inverter and am finding that it is not working as I'd expect. I removed the jumper and plugged the switch cable in it's place but breaking the circuit doesn't actually turn it off, the CCFL just dimms and flickers a bit? Even if I just remove the jumper and have nothing connected the CCFL is still on but the inverter makes a high pitched squeal.


It sounds like it may be defective. You can also email [email protected] and we can get a replacement going for you. I apologize for the inconvenience but not to worry as we will get you sorted out ASAP.


----------



## Ceadderman

My man Geno!









Get down with yo bad self!









~Ceadder


----------



## Recumbent




----------



## Radnad

Tater pic incoming! My latest MMRS creation, love love love this res!!


----------



## tintreach

Some days.... its just hard to get it started!!!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Tater pic incoming! My latest MMRS creation, love love love this res!!


Almost afraid to ask but what is a tater pic =)


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Almost afraid to ask but what is a tater pic =)


I suspect same thing as "potato pic", aka a picture taken with a cell/mobile phone.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Some days.... its just hard to get it started!!!


Man that tube blasting on at the end REALLY pops


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Can anyone with the D5 pump top and cover tell me about how tall those two are together? I'm trying to measure some things in a case to decide between 250mm or 300mm res.


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Can anyone with the D5 pump top and cover tell me about how tall those two are together? I'm trying to measure some things in a case to decide between 250mm or 300mm res.


This may help. It's what I used to determine if the 300mm would fit. /8/]http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-modular-reservoir-system-parts/monsoon-mmrs-d5-pump-cover-blue.html#!prettyPhoto[gallery]/8/


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Almost afraid to ask but what is a tater pic =)


probably a typo taster ..... had me thinking


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> This may help. It's what I used to determine if the 300mm would fit. /8/]http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-modular-reservoir-system-parts/monsoon-mmrs-d5-pump-cover-blue.html#!prettyPhoto[gallery]/8/


Well still no dimensions listed but I've seen that video before and going by that it looks around 3".


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> This may help. It's what I used to determine if the 300mm would fit. /8/]http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-modular-reservoir-system-parts/monsoon-mmrs-d5-pump-cover-blue.html#!prettyPhoto[gallery]/8/
> 
> 
> 
> Well still no dimensions listed but I've seen that video before and going by that it looks around 3".
Click to expand...

Few posts down on this page theres a pic with all the dimensions on it. I keep it bookmarked for reference


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Few posts down on this page theres a pic with all the dimensions on it. I keep it bookmarked for reference


Perfect. Thanks!

Of course I finally measure and pick out my options for one of the assembled custom kits at Performance PCs and the D5 pump mount, red pump cover and red plugs are all out of stock. Come on!


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Well still no dimensions listed but I've seen that video before and going by that it looks around 3".


If you click on the image on that page to enlarge and scroll to the last one it has all the dimensions. Sorry,should have been more clear.


----------



## tintreach

Gene, Add this to the ever growing list of "hey this would be cool to have"

A thin plastic piece that can be placed between the tension rods on the reservoirs. I know, before everyone starts wonder why the heck would you do that.

1: You can use it to black out part of the rez to either keep light from coming in or out.
2: You could use mirror tape on the inside of the insert to increase luminosity if the rez has lights inside
3: If 3D printed, you could do cut out designs

Not enough hours in the day, back to tinkering I go


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Thanks to you both for pointing me to the specific place. That helped me decide which height res I wanted (250).

I mentioned yesterday that PPCs is now missing a couple of parts that I wanted to include for a pre-assembled res/pump combo but I didn't realize I'm not actually missing anything if I simply build it from scratch. For some reason I kept thinking cable-sleeving and something else was annoying DIY stuff but PPCs sells the EK D5 pump with a sleeve and the light cable for the dual CCFL lights is already sleeved.

I went ahead and bought what I could at PPCs and the rest at Amazon:

EK D5 pump, sleeved
250mm tube (blood red)
red tension rods
black chrome tension rods
dual CCFL red light
Two 25mm mounts (black chrome)
Two 25mm mounts (red)
single port, two side port end cap
D5 pump mount end cap
red pump cover
black chrome pump cover
red plugs
black chrome plugs

Couldn't decide on color between tension rods, plugs, cover and mounts, so decided to get both. I'll be making the others available in the market, FYI.

Oh and grabbed a little hex driver to help with assembly.

F'ing hyped to try the red/black chrome combos and see the final result once I put it together.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Thanks to you both for pointing me to the specific place. That helped me decide which height res I wanted (250).
> 
> I mentioned yesterday that PPCs is now missing a couple of parts that I wanted to include for a pre-assembled res/pump combo but I didn't realize I'm not actually missing anything if I simply build it from scratch. For some reason I kept thinking cable-sleeving and something else was annoying DIY stuff but PPCs sells the EK D5 pump with a sleeve and the light cable for the dual CCFL lights is already sleeved.
> 
> I went ahead and bought what I could at PPCs and the rest at Amazon:
> 
> 250mm tube (blood red)
> red tension rods
> black chrome tension rods
> dual CCFL red light
> Two 25mm mounts (black chrome)
> Two 25mm mounts (red)
> single port, two side port end cap
> D5 pump mount end cap
> red pump cover
> black chrome pump cover
> red plugs
> black chrome plugs
> 
> Couldn't decide on color between tension rods, plugs, cover and mounts, so decided to get both. I'll be making the others available in the market, FYI.
> 
> Oh and grabbed a little hex driver to help with assembly.
> 
> F'ing hyped to try the red/black chrome combos and see the final result once I put it together.


Why not use both colors alternating around the res? I bet that would look really cool.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Why not use both colors alternating around the res? I bet that would look really cool.


Oh, yeah...well, I totally thought of that too, so...

Seriously: amazing idea! I'll definitely give that a look. Thanks again.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tintreach*
> 
> Gene, Add this to the ever growing list of "hey this would be cool to have"
> 
> A thin plastic piece that can be placed between the tension rods on the reservoirs. I know, before everyone starts wonder why the heck would you do that.
> 
> 1: You can use it to black out part of the rez to either keep light from coming in or out.
> 2: You could use mirror tape on the inside of the insert to increase luminosity if the rez has lights inside
> 3: If 3D printed, you could do cut out designs
> 
> Not enough hours in the day, back to tinkering I go


We have actually done this on the new square design except the sleeve is aluminum.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Oh, yeah...well, I totally thought of that too, so...
> 
> Seriously: amazing idea! I'll definitely give that a look. Thanks again.


Did you add an inverter to power the CCFL's?

I can say from practical use that the black chrome and the green are amazing together--has a sort of mechanical / metallic nVidia thing going on. So the red with black chrome should look pretty cool together as well.


----------



## tintreach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We have actually done this on the new square design except the sleeve is aluminum.


What is this "new square design" sorcery you speak of lol? Only reason I suggested plastic was its flexible and could be flexed to pop in existing rezs with out taking them a part.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Did you add an inverter to power the CCFL's?
> 
> I can say from practical use that the black chrome and the green are amazing together--has a sort of mechanical / metallic nVidia thing going on. So the red with black chrome should look pretty cool together as well.


Thanks Box - I did (get an inverter) plus various other cables and splitters, etc.

I really wanted to incorporate black chrome even though it's not technically part of the "DC sports" theme I'm going for. I think alternating black chrome rods, a black chrome pump cover and black chrome plugs will look good against the red res, red rods and red tubes. We'll see.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Thanks Box - I did (get an inverter) plus various other cables and splitters, etc.
> 
> I really wanted to incorporate black chrome even though it's not technically part of the "DC sports" theme I'm going for. I think alternating black chrome rods, a black chrome pump cover and black chrome plugs will look good against the red res, red rods and red tubes. We'll see.


Comics, (sorry--graphic novels) are such a ripe genre to mine for mod themes. Every time I look at our red and gold parts together my imagination goes all Iron Man. Some day...


----------



## DocShay

Hey Monsoon - Any plans to add replacement caps for the EV2s anytime? I'm currently using a a tonne of matte black EV2's since I did my build last year - Thinking of doing an overhaul later this year and may want to change the colors up abit. I'd love to keep using the EV2's - Just with a...flashier color possibly.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Hey Monsoon - Any plans to add replacement caps for the EM2s anytime? I'm currently using a a tonne of matte black EM2's since I did my build last year - Thinking of doing an overhaul later this year and may want to change the colors up abit. I'd love to keep using the EM2's - Just with a...flashier color possibly.


Refresh my memory...EM2's?


----------



## DocShay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Refresh my memory...EM2's?


Sleep deprivation sucks...

I meant EF2. 2nd generation Economy Fittings.


----------



## motoray

Just finished my first time using monsoon fittings (almost 2 dozen) hard tube. What a great product! Very consistent color, very pleased!


----------



## TOOLP

We need photos to appreciate your work.


----------



## ruffhi

Too funny ... 2nd gen econ fittings are EV2 (eg EV2-1258-6-RD)

Don't feel bad as I was calling them EN2.

That said ... being able to swap out the collars without having to buy the fittings ... that is an interesting idea.


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> We need photos to appreciate your work.


I used purple fittings with uv purple coolant. I do not have lights yet because i am still modding switches n such. All in my sig link.


----------



## Bandalo

I've had my MMRS res for about a year now, and the end caps are starting to look a bit dingy. I've dusted them and used a damp cloth to wipe them down, but they're still looking more grey than black these days. To be clear, these are the delrin/nylon caps. The pump cover, tension rods and acrylic tube all look perfect after dusting and wiping them down.

What should I use to clean them and get the caps looking new again?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> I've had my MMRS res for about a year now, and the end caps are starting to look a bit dingy. I've dusted them and used a damp cloth to wipe them down, but they're still looking more grey than black these days. To be clear, these are the delrin/nylon caps. The pump cover, tension rods and acrylic tube all look perfect after dusting and wiping them down.
> 
> What should I use to clean them and get the caps looking new again?


Have you tried Maguire's PlastX conditioner? That's what I would recommend.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bandalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Have you tried Maguire's PlastX conditioner? That's what I would recommend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I haven't tried anything yet...the material seems a bit more porous than a lot of other plastics I've seen, so I'm a bit wary about using anything untested on it...


----------



## Ceadderman

PlastX should be fine, but I will let it be at that and let Geno provide some input regarding that.









~Ceadder


----------



## Bandalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> PlastX should be fine, but I will let it be at that and let Geno provide some input regarding that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I've used that and Plexus before to clean all kinds of plastics...but honestly this stuff seems a bit more porous than I'm used to dealing with. I'd have no problem using PlastX or Plexus on the tube itself, or my case window, or any of the acrylic blocks...but I'd really like to hear from Geno on these before I screw them up permanently.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Received some more items today, including red pump cover - which I really like and I already know it's going to be hard picking between it and the black chrome cover - a pack of Monsoon 1/2" black chrome fittings, Monsoon 90 degree black chrome fitting and Monsoon black chrome plugs.



Fittings look great. However, to me it appears the finish on the straight fittings and the L fitting are not exactly the same, despite them all being labeled black chrome. The plugs match the L. The straight fittings look lighter.

These pics may not show it that well:





I thought maybe it was lighting but changing that didn't make a difference.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Sleep deprivation sucks...
> 
> I meant EF2. 2nd generation Economy Fittings.


If I understand you right you mean just sell the compression rings stand alone correct? Not really any plans for that--by the time you add in packaging etc. the price difference is not that much between the compression ring and a complete fitting. Especially as you should replace the O-rings etc. as a best practice.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> Just finished my first time using monsoon fittings (almost 2 dozen) hard tube. What a great product! Very consistent color, very pleased!


Thank you for the kind words =) we try really hard to keep colors consistent from batch to batch--it is one of the things I am ranting at my guys about the most. As you can see in the next comment--there are going to be some variables.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> I've had my MMRS res for about a year now, and the end caps are starting to look a bit dingy. I've dusted them and used a damp cloth to wipe them down, but they're still looking more grey than black these days. To be clear, these are the delrin/nylon caps. The pump cover, tension rods and acrylic tube all look perfect after dusting and wiping them down.
> 
> What should I use to clean them and get the caps looking new again?


The plastic is not really any more or less porous than normal plastic--it just seems like it because of the matte / satin finish. It will look a little dry after a year or two. Any quality plastic conditioner is fine and will have it back in the black. You can even use extra virgin olive oil. Just be sure to whipe off all the excess.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Received some more items today, including red pump cover - which I really like and I already know it's going to be hard picking between it and the black chrome cover - a pack of Monsoon 1/2" black chrome fittings, Monsoon 90 degree black chrome fitting and Monsoon black chrome plugs.
> 
> 
> 
> Fittings look great. However, to me it appears the finish on the straight fittings and the L fitting are not exactly the same, despite them all being labeled black chrome. The plugs match the L. The straight fittings look lighter.
> 
> These pics may not show it that well:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought maybe it was lighting but changing that didn't make a difference.


I think what you are seeing is the difference in base metals. The fittings arr marine grade brass, and the rotaries are 316 stainless. The chances are that the difference will not really show when installed in your case--it is always more noticeable in your hands in normal light.


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Thank you for the kind words =) we try really hard to keep colors consistent from batch to batch--it is one of the things I am ranting at my guys about the most. As you can see in the next comment--there are going to be some variables.


Well you can thank jayztwocents, his review of your fittings made me decide to go from soft tube to rigid with your fittings.
It was a lot more work, but as you can see from my pics it was well worth it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> Well you can thank jayztwocents, his review of your fittings made me decide to go from soft tube to rigid with your fittings.
> It was a lot more work, but as you can see from my pics it was well worth it.


We appreciate your business


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We appreciate your business


BoxGods, we appreciate you


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I think what you are seeing is the difference in base metals. The fittings arr marine grade brass, and the rotaries are 316 stainless. The chances are that the difference will not really show when installed in your case--it is always more noticeable in your hands in normal light.


Thanks and yes, you're right, I think in the case it's really not visible.

Payment should clear Monday so I'm expecting everything else by Wednesday. Absolutely can't wait to start playing with the different color combos.


----------



## Bandalo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The plastic is not really any more or less porous than normal plastic--it just seems like it because of the matte / satin finish. It will look a little dry after a year or two. Any quality plastic conditioner is fine and will have it back in the black. You can even use extra virgin olive oil. Just be sure to whipe off all the excess.


Thanks! I'll give the plastic conditioner a try. I'll keep the olive oil in the kitchen for now.


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

I have some questions about the led plugs. Hope someone here can clear this up. Do any of the light plugs come with UV LEDs? I can't seem to find that information anywhere. Also, it would seem all pug kits come with two types of LEDs, a narrow and wide beam. I noticed in the packaging there are always two colors of sleaving. Which LED is sleaved in black and which one is sleaved in the color?


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> I have some questions about the led plugs. Hope someone here can clear this up. Do any of the light plugs come with UV LEDs? I can't seem to find that information anywhere. Also, it would seem all pug kits come with two types of LEDs, a narrow and wide beam. I noticed in the packaging there are always two colors of sleaving. Which LED is sleaved in black and which one is sleaved in the color?


I browsed a while before getting my red plug and didn't see any UV.

Not sure about your second question; won't have mine until Wed.

On that note, though: does anyone in here have the light plugs installed and want to share pics?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bandalo*
> 
> Thanks! I'll give the plastic conditioner a try. I'll keep the olive oil in the kitchen for now.


Not sure why...but your answer made me think of a movie scene where some lady who is a veterinarian is doing a radio interview and she says, "Well remember....it is OK to love your pets...just don't LOVE your pets".


----------



## BoxGods

On an unrelated note. We had a great show at the Orlando Magic: The Gathering Grand Prix. Sold out.









SEER is FINALLY starting to get a little traction.


----------



## Ceadderman

Heh, Orlando Magic...







lulz

~Ceadder


----------



## rediornot

i think it is awesome that there will be a modular system. and you are right when you say think of lego building blocks. with the couplers and everything matched you can go small or add them together and make them as big as you want.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Little help: I'm still deciding between Bitspower and Monsoon fittings so I grabbed a single Bitspower straight fitting and, while being listed as 1/2 x 5/8, it does not fit my Monsoon 1/2 x 5/8 hard tubes. I'm using Bitwspower part BP-BSCPF-CC4 and Monsoon part PETG-1258-4. Doesn't seem like force would make it happen either.


----------



## InfoSeeker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Little help: I'm still deciding between Bitspower and Monsoon fittings so I grabbed a single Bitspower straight fitting and, while being listed as 1/2 x 5/8, it does not fit my Monsoon 1/2 x 5/8 hard tubes. I'm using Bitwspower part BP-BSCPF-CC4 and Monsoon part PETG-1258-4. Doesn't seem like force would make it happen either.


The fitting you reference, BP-BSCPF-CC4, is a compression fitting for soft tubing. It will not work with hardline tubing.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InfoSeeker*
> 
> The fitting you reference, BP-BSCPF-CC4, is a compression fitting for soft tubing. It will not work with hardline tubing.


Well there you go. Thanks. These are really not labeled well on the various sites that sell them. They just say "for tubing 1/2 x 5x8." The only mention I find is on PPCs' description saying "no more kinked tubing."

Looks like BP-XXX-C89 and BP-XXX16 are for rigid but they're listed as 16mm.

Well I love the Monsoon black chrome so it's not a big deal!


----------



## rathar3

Hey Gene i been waiting for some 200mm uv black CCFL ppcs is sold and has been for awhile. Any ideas when they will be getting any.


----------



## geox19

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Hey Gene i been waiting for some 200mm uv black CCFL ppcs is sold and has been for awhile. Any ideas when they will be getting any.


Have you given PPCS a call? They'll usually order it for you.. Boxgods could probably just send you what you need? Lets cut out the middle man Monsoon?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geox19*
> 
> Have you given PPCS a call? They'll usually order it for you.. Boxgods could probably just send you what you need? Lets cut out the middle man Monsoon?


Sorry but we are not set up for direct sales =0

Did you try Titan Rig?


----------



## GraphicsWhore

So does Monsoon not have any T fittings or valves? Trying to select parts for a drain port.


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> So does Monsoon not have any T fittings or valves? Trying to select parts for a drain port.


Can use a light fitting for a t but no valves


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Can use a light fitting for a t but no valves


You're talking about the 90 with light port (https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-Rotary-Fitting-Matched-Chrome/dp/B017ZHBB58/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1490760924&sr=8-6&keywords=monsoon+90+light)?


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sorry but we are not set up for direct sales =0
> 
> Did you try Titan Rig?[/quote
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Sorry but we are not set up for direct sales =0
> 
> Did you try Titan Rig?
> 
> 
> 
> If i had to choose between having part of my body placed in a 5 ton press and cycled 5 times of order from amazon i would have to sit and think about it for awhile. In the end i would go with the press !!!
> 
> On a lighter note they said they are expecting a shipment end of the week or early next week YAY!!!
Click to expand...


----------



## seross69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> You're talking about the 90 with light port (https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-Rotary-Fitting-Matched-Chrome/dp/B017ZHBB58/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1490760924&sr=8-6&keywords=monsoon+90+light)?


Yes Sir


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> If i had to choose between having part of my body placed in a 5 ton press and cycled 5 times of order from amazon i would have to sit and think about it for awhile. In the end i would go with the press !!!
> 
> On a lighter note they said they are expecting a shipment end of the week or early next week YAY!!!


Why? Amazon/TitanRIG had a few Monsoon items I needed in stock that not FrozenCPU, modmymods, nor PPCs had. I also have Prime so while items are a little pricier I save on the shipping.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seross69*
> 
> Yes Sir


Thanks! Great idea. I think I'll go with that out of the pump, top side up to GPU, bottom side to a Monsoon 45 to a Bitspower valve.


----------



## rathar3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Why? Amazon/TitanRIG had a few Monsoon items I needed in stock that not FrozenCPU, modmymods, nor PPCs had. I also have Prime so while items are a little pricier I save on the shipping.


I have no issues with titan rig its amazon. Long story short i was a long haul truck driver and i have to deliver to a amazon location. My trailer was sealed by amazon but they said after i delivered some thing were missing and said that they felt IT WAS THE DRIVER THAT TOOK THE MISSING ITEMS. they contacted my company and i was pulled off the road and lost a weeks pay. To this day amazon has never said what happened . After that week i was put back to work and told that amazon refused to say anything and they stated i was not allowed to haul any thing for them again.

Thru legal insurance i had filed a lawsuit against them. Day of the first hearing they sent someone who said it had been resolved. and they had terminated several employees at the warehouse and that was it i was cleared of the charges and they paid my lost wages and legal fees. I was told that i was allowed to haul for them again and my company was cleared. I told their rep that if jeff bozo kissed my butt in time square at noon on friday i would never haul a thing for them and had that put in my driver log.

So in a nutshell i do not and will never trust them. For those who don't know a driver stealing from his load gets a felony conviction and that goes on your DOT record that the fed's DOT keep on all drivers
These people almost cost me my job my rep because they didnt want to admit they had a theft problem in a warehouse.

So ya i would take the press over amazon anytime


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> So does Monsoon not have any T fittings or valves? Trying to select parts for a drain port.


I have to confess I have never understood the need for a valve...maybe if you were connecting to an outdoor bong cooler or something similar. Likely just me


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I have to confess I have never understood the need for a valve...maybe if you were connecting to an outdoor bong cooler or something similar. Likely just me


Good idea. I'll look into that!

Honestly, I was really focused on the valve to make draining easier. What's your commendation? My pump will be bottom-most component. Just a 90 fitting with a plug on bottom port?


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Good idea. I'll look into that!
> 
> Honestly, I was really focused on the valve to make draining easier. What's your commendation? My pump will be bottom-most component. Just a 90 fitting with a plug on bottom port?


I run a drain valve off the bottom of my res. Really depends on ur setup.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> I run a drain valve off the bottom of my res. Really depends on ur setup.


For me it'd have to be from the pump as I have a combo. I'm just wondering now if I need to bother with an actual valve.


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> For me it'd have to be from the pump as I have a combo. I'm just wondering now if I need to bother with an actual valve.


For me it has already been very nice having it. Between testing and changing things I have used it many times.... So it is really up to you. With soft tube I never ran a valve. But I personally like it with my performance setup. Plus I will be changing more components soon.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> For me it has already been very nice having it. Between testing and changing things I have used it many times.... So it is really up to you. With soft tube I never ran a valve. But I personally like it with my performance setup. Plus I will be changing more components soon.


Thanks for the input. Well it's only 25 bucks (nice bitspower one with metal handle) and adds a bit of aesthetic to the build so I'll probably still get one.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> For me it has already been very nice having it. Between testing and changing things I have used it many times.... So it is really up to you. With soft tube I never ran a valve. But I personally like it with my performance setup. Plus I will be changing more components soon.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input. Well it's only 25 bucks (nice bitspower one with metal handle) and adds a bit of aesthetic to the build so I'll probably still get one.
Click to expand...

Try not to get one with a plastic handle. They have a habit of breaking. Try looking for one that has a real metal handle - example 1 or example 2.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Try not to get one with a plastic handle. They have a habit of breaking. Try looking for one that has a real metal handle - example 1 or example 2.


Dude ready my post! But The Barrow is the one I have in my cart (on modmymods). I don't know why I said bitspower up there. I have a bitspower valve also bookmarked but yes it has the plastic handle and I read about them breaking which is why I decided on the barrow. Thanks.


----------



## straha20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Good idea. I'll look into that!
> 
> Honestly, I was really focused on the valve to make draining easier. What's your commendation? My pump will be bottom-most component. Just a 90 fitting with a plug on bottom port?


All of my plumbing is going to be hidden in the bottom section of my scratch build case, so it has to be functional, not necessarily pretty. I am just using a plastic 3/8" tee that I got for 68 cents at Lowes, and then running a tube from the tee ending with a threaded cap, so to drain, all I have to do is remove the cap.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rathar3*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Why? Amazon/TitanRIG had a few Monsoon items I needed in stock that not FrozenCPU, modmymods, nor PPCs had. I also have Prime so while items are a little pricier I save on the shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> I have no issues with titan rig its amazon. Long story short i was a long haul truck driver and i have to deliver to a amazon location. My trailer was sealed by amazon but they said after i delivered some thing were missing and said that they felt IT WAS THE DRIVER THAT TOOK THE MISSING ITEMS. they contacted my company and i was pulled off the road and lost a weeks pay. To this day amazon has never said what happened . After that week i was put back to work and told that amazon refused to say anything and they stated i was not allowed to haul any thing for them again.
> 
> Thru legal insurance i had filed a lawsuit against them. Day of the first hearing they sent someone who said it had been resolved. and they had terminated several employees at the warehouse and that was it i was cleared of the charges and they paid my lost wages and legal fees. I was told that i was allowed to haul for them again and my company was cleared. I told their rep that if jeff bozo kissed my butt in time square at noon on friday i would never haul a thing for them and had that put in my driver log.
> 
> So in a nutshell i do not and will never trust them. For those who don't know a driver stealing from his load gets a felony conviction and that goes on your DOT record that the fed's DOT keep on all drivers
> These people almost cost me my job my rep because they didnt want to admit they had a theft problem in a warehouse.
> 
> So ya i would take the press over amazon anytime
Click to expand...

I understand rathar. I didn't have a job that would put a felony on my record, but I worked in Auto Parts for a few years. The last store I worked at I transferred to from California. Turns out they had a guy(or three) who was stealing from them out the back door. It did cost me my job because they thought the guy from California was the one with sticky fingers. We're talking Alternators, Starters etc. all for Muscle Cars. They simply used the excuse that I was always late(very rarely, actually) and that I was a "know it all Californian" and sent me on my way. A month or so later they got the right people and pressed charges on em. I never heard so much as an apology or an offer to come back to the company. I get the last laugh though cause that company is no longer in business.









~Ceadder


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Thanks for the input. Well it's only 25 bucks (nice bitspower one with metal handle) and adds a bit of aesthetic to the build so I'll probably still get one.


I got an xspc all metal... was cheap and works well. I just have a cap on the end when not in use.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/xspc-ball-valve-chrome.html


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Got some more stuff today. Forgot to put the UV and Blood Red tubes and red light plug in there too. I don't know if I'm going to use the light plug I just wanted to check it out. An EK D5 will be going inside the cover. I'm also waiting for more 90 and 45 degree fittings as well as a few more straight. Finding these black chrome ones has been tough!


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Got some more stuff today. Forgot to put the UV and Blood Red tubes and red light plug in there too. I don't know if I'm going to use the light plug I just wanted to check it out. An EK D5 will be going inside the cover. I'm also waiting for more 90 and 45 degree fittings as well as a few more straight. Finding these black chrome ones has been tough!


Ya I bought the last black chrome xspc valve from ppc lol


----------



## straha20

Well finding the fittings I need, in the quantity I need, in the white color I need proved to be an impossibility...so I bought what ever color was available and am in the process of painting them. Very tedious, but it is working rather well.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Good idea. I'll look into that!
> 
> Honestly, I was really focused on the valve to make draining easier. What's your commendation? My pump will be bottom-most component. Just a 90 fitting with a plug on bottom port?


Some sort of fill and drain port is needed with hard tube, but I prefer a dedicated external FDP as it just makes life so much easier. You can actually use one port for both by simply flipping the PC depending on which you are doing. If you have it mounted on the top, then when you fill, bleed, and top off your PC it is fine upright, and when you want to drain the loop just flip the machine over.

Again...my personal preference, but a valve is all but worthless if it is inside the case...just there for aesthetics.

Here is a link...it shows two FDP's with one as a fill port and one as a drain port but really one is enough as I mentioned above. Keep in mind that the port is on the outside of the case and has an over flow basin to make filling even easier.


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Some sort of fill and drain port is needed with hard tube, but I prefer a dedicated external FDP as it just makes life so much easier. You can actually use one port for both by simply flipping the PC depending on which you are doing. If you have it mounted on the top, then when you fill, bleed, and top off your PC it is fine upright, and when you want to drain the loop just flip the machine over.
> 
> Again...my personal preference, but a valve is all but worthless if it is inside the case...just there for aesthetics.
> 
> Here is a link...it shows two FDP's with one as a fill port and one as a drain port but really one is enough as I mentioned above. Keep in mind that the port is on the outside of the case and has an over flow basin to make filling even easier.


It is perfectly useful inside the case. I screw in my drain Barb/soft tube and do what I need. Then shut valve unscrew Barb. Bam done.

Also u generally need 2 ports for filling and draining to break vacuum.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> It is perfectly useful inside the case. *I screw in my drain Barb/soft tube and do what I need.* Then shut valve unscrew Barb. Bam done.
> 
> Also u generally need 2 ports for filling and draining to break vacuum.


yes that's what I do , no way are you flipping a X9 dual loop


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Some sort of fill and drain port is needed with hard tube, but I prefer a dedicated external FDP as it just makes life so much easier. You can actually use one port for both by simply flipping the PC depending on which you are doing. If you have it mounted on the top, then when you fill, bleed, and top off your PC it is fine upright, and when you want to drain the loop just flip the machine over.
> 
> Again...my personal preference, but a valve is all but worthless if it is inside the case...just there for aesthetics.
> 
> Here is a link...it shows two FDP's with one as a fill port and one as a drain port but really one is enough as I mentioned above. Keep in mind that the port is on the outside of the case and has an over flow basin to make filling even easier.


I'm using single top port/dual side port cap and pump cap on res so nowhere for that kind of fill/drain setup. Thankfully I'm using the thermaltake P5 case so I'll just remove the window, move the whole thing to the edge of the counter it's going to sit on and let the valve rip.

I can just imagine myself trying to flip that entire thing over lol.


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> I'm using single top port/dual side port cap and pump cap on res so nowhere for that kind of fill/drain setup. Thankfully I'm using the thermaltake P5 case so I'll just remove the window, move the whole thing to the edge of the counter it's going to sit on and let the valve rip.
> 
> I can just imagine myself trying to flip that entire thing over lol.


Put this on the discharge and just have the valve on it with a lil male to male adapter. Bam done.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-black-sparkle-t-block-with-triple-ig1-4.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-nozzle-coupling-adapter-g-1-4-male-male-silver.html

Edit:You can maintain nice straight discharge flow and have a drain at a low point.


----------



## BoxGods

I guess easy is a relative term









Having filled inside a case before there is no way I would ever go back to it. Nothing beats an external fill / drain port for my money =)


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I guess easy is a relative term
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Having filled inside a case before there is no way I would ever go back to it. Nothing beats an external fill / drain port for my money =)


Got pics?


----------



## DNMock

Alright Gene, finally got past fighting with the cities and dealing with the insurance and all that other B.S. and the framing is almost complete, so it's time!

What kind of fantastic goodies you got for me for my in wall/desk build.

Kicking around the idea of actually having the coolant coming down from the alcove above through a 5' long tube reservoir and circulating back up to the pumps/rads through the PEX in the wall, but I wanna see what kind of win you have brainstormed up in these last 6 months and what you got coming down the pipe in the new few months before I finalize my plans


----------



## rathar3

I put a valve on my res. waiting for the 200mm uv lights to be back in stock and will do new pics.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

So the valve is missing here as I'm still waiting for it but I've got these options of 45 or 90 to the valve, or perhaps even valve right from the T. There's a little more space there than the pictures make it seem. Then remove window, soft tube out.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> Got pics?


I did a video to make it a little easier to understand.






Sadly I stupidly went with black parts so you can't really see that on top (or the bottom if you mounted it on the bottom of your case) there is an over flow basin in case you spill a little. The machined aluminum outside cap is also sealed with an O-ring so any spills do not leak down into the inside of your case.

The video also shows a fill AND drain FDP and you really only need one.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Alright Gene, finally got past fighting with the cities and dealing with the insurance and all that other B.S. and the framing is almost complete, so it's time!
> 
> What kind of fantastic goodies you got for me for my in wall/desk build.
> 
> Kicking around the idea of actually having the coolant coming down from the alcove above through a 5' long tube reservoir and circulating back up to the pumps/rads through the PEX in the wall, but I wanna see what kind of win you have brainstormed up in these last 6 months and what you got coming down the pipe in the new few months before I finalize my plans


Hmmm...I think you need to run it outside to a 8" or 10": buried PVC pipe and use geo-thermal cooling =)

No wait! Run a parallel pipe down the wall for hamsters to use...or FISH...yeah FISH =)

Like I could ever come up with anything more insane than the stuff you do









New stuff...tinkering with another line for MMRS with square tube and end caps, and killer aluminum sleeves for the tubes.= that can be cut to user defined shapes, and / or etched. Other than that I have been very focused on getting the boats out.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> So the valve is missing here as I'm still waiting for it but I've got these options of 45 or 90 to the valve, or perhaps even valve right from the T. There's a little more space there than the pictures make it seem. Then remove window, soft tube out.


If you are going to use that light port rotary as a "T" make sure you double O-ring the off side as strictly speaking...not what they are made for =)


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you are going to use that light port rotary as a "T" make sure you double O-ring the off side as strictly speaking...not what they are made for =)


Thanks. Guess I need to buy some extra. Probably a dumb question but what size are those O rings?


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> So the valve is missing here as I'm still waiting for it but I've got these options of 45 or 90 to the valve, or perhaps even valve right from the T. There's a little more space there than the pictures make it seem. Then remove window, soft tube out.


I would not T the discharge flow. That abrupt of a direction change is not good for flow or the pump. I would have the drain 90off the T.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Thanks. Guess I need to buy some extra. Probably a dumb question but what size are those O rings?


All of our fittings usually ship with extra O rings.


----------



## Ceadderman

I generally use another brand's 180 T which has a straight shot off the pump and connect my valves in some fashion in the middle of the flow path. This way it won't interrupt flow and any coolant that journeys there will stay trapped there. I will leave a clue but not the name since I fully support Gen and his company.

*The clue is* "*Big Price*" ~tried to spoiler tag but mobile doesn't do it properly.









Would love to see some Monsoon fittings of this type soon-ish but for now I will be patient. Cause tbh we need some more flush passthroughs, valves and rotary fittings to choose from.









~Ceadder


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> I would not T the discharge flow. That abrupt of a direction change is not good for flow or the pump. I would have the drain 90off the T.


It did briefly occur to me that it would be a drastic change but, since I don't have experience, I wasn't sure if it mattered so I'm glad you mentioned it. I will not use the T there.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> All of our fittings usually ship with extra O rings.


Ah yeah I see there are two with each piece. You guys rule!

I'm going to start playing with combos of the res parts this afternoon. Will post some pics and might ask you guys for input.

Also, observation on tubes: when I got my first set (UV red) I looked at it and thought, "oh that's plenty of tubing!" Especially for my setup which looks like it'll be fairly short. But then you realize since you need certain amount of leverage to get a bend that you can basically use up a 36" rod for a much smaller final piece, and given that I've never bent (though I did get a full kit to help), I hope one set is enough.

Thankfully I did also get a set of the blood red because I couldn't decide which color I wanted, so once I finalize which one will go in I can use the other as practice for each section.

As always, tips or recommendations appreciated!


----------



## loktite78

Finished a build, used Monsoon MMRS-SAP x2 for the pumps, MMRS rez and mounting, all Blue.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loktite78*
> 
> Finished a build, used Monsoon MMRS-SAP x2 for the pumps, MMRS rez and mounting, all Blue.


Love that color. Nice job!

I notice you're not cooling the GPU but have two pumps. Can't see the rest of your run but were you just worried about having enough flow?


----------



## loktite78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Love that color. Nice job!
> 
> I notice you're not cooling the GPU but have two pumps. Can't see the rest of your run but were you just worried about having enough flow?


Umm, no. I had a small goof when I bought that Sapphire R9 Fury Nitro to tide me over till Vega. Its a custom PCB so I can't find a water block for it. So, I will have a GPU water block in a few months.

1 pump probably would of been fine but I went with two for the extra pressure to get the flow through a 480 and 360 rad and cpu and possibly 2 gpus.

[EDIT]

Thank you, I like the way the colors came out too


----------



## Ceadderman

I generally use another brand
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loktite78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Love that color. Nice job!
> 
> I notice you're not cooling the GPU but have two pumps. Can't see the rest of your run but were you just worried about having enough flow?
> 
> 
> 
> Umm, no. I had a small goof when I bought that Sapphire R9 Fury Nitro to tide me over till Vega. Its a custom PCB so I can't find a water block for it. So, I will have a GPU water block in a few months.
> 
> 1 pump probably would of been fine but I went with two for the extra pressure to get the flow through a 480 and 360 rad and cpu and possibly 2 gpus.
> 
> [EDIT]
> 
> Thank you, I like the way the colors came out too
Click to expand...

Too bad you got the Nitro. But you learned a valuable watercooler's lesson. MultiFan cards are generally a no go for Watercooling. Just keep your chin up and remember this in the future and you will be fine. I coulda got a PowerColor Red Devil card that had more power consumption(8pin 150w) but EK doesn't make a block for those types of cards. I'm sure someone offers a 2ndary option but typically they are GPU only cooling options.









~Ceadder


----------



## loktite78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I generally use another brand
> Too bad you got the Nitro. But you learned a valuable watercooler's lesson. MultiFan cards are generally a no go for Watercooling. Just keep your chin up and remember this in the future and you will be fine. I coulda got a PowerColor Red Devil card that had more power consumption(8pin 150w) but EK doesn't make a block for those types of cards. I'm sure someone offers a 2ndary option but typically they are GPU only cooling options.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes. I will make sure to have the water block found for the GPU cad before i buy!! I'm lucky that this card is super quiet. Can't wait for Vega


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loktite78*
> 
> Yes. I will make sure to have the water block found for the GPU cad before i buy!! I'm lucky that this card is super quiet. Can't wait for Vega


always buy reference pretty much


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> always buy reference pretty much


what he said..... From what I have heard by several major YouTubers NVidia cherry picks the Founders cards and since your putting under water most likely you are going to overclock it yourself anyhow. Save the $ and buy a stock founders for water and a block is never hard to find


----------



## rathar3

Dunno i had no issues finding a GPU block for my 480


----------



## motoray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> what he said..... From what I have heard by several major YouTubers NVidia cherry picks the Founders cards and since your putting under water most likely you are going to overclock it yourself anyhow. Save the $ and buy a stock founders for water and a block is never hard to find


I would not say they are cherry picked, but with water cooling you will usually OC better Than aftermarket cards anyway. Plus no loud fans. Some rare occasions there will be crazy upgraded aftermarket cards that clock way better, but those usually have block support from Ek. Always check Ek site first or email them and ask if they are making them.


----------



## loktite78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motoray*
> 
> I would not say they are cherry picked, but with water cooling you will usually OC better Than aftermarket cards anyway. Plus no loud fans. Some rare occasions there will be crazy upgraded aftermarket cards that clock way better, but those usually have block support from Ek. Always check Ek site first or email them and ask if they are making them.


Yup, that is the plan going forward. Lesson learned, lol


----------



## BoxGods

I prefer reference cards also...tho I seriously doubt there is any cherry picking going on as the logistics for that would be a nightmare--and no real upside for nVidia.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loktite78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I generally use another brand
> Too bad you got the Nitro. But you learned a valuable watercooler's lesson. MultiFan cards are generally a no go for Watercooling. Just keep your chin up and remember this in the future and you will be fine. I coulda got a PowerColor Red Devil card that had more power consumption(8pin 150w) but EK doesn't make a block for those types of cards. I'm sure someone offers a 2ndary option but typically they are GPU only cooling options.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. I will make sure to have the water block found for the GPU cad before i buy!! I'm lucky that this card is super quiet. Can't wait for Vega
Click to expand...

You may be able to find a bykski block on aliexpress. They make a lot of blocks for non reference designs. I went this route for a friend's build.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Played with some combos today. Lining up rods for 2nd cap is probably the hardest part of the process but easy after a bit of trial and error the first time, assuming you have any semblance of hand-eye coordination. I love how straight-forward and efficient the building process is; by the third time disassembling and re-assembling it was a breeze.

I had a SATA power cable free on my current setup so decided to hook up the CCFL just to see how it looks and I'm a fan.

@BoxGods: Will be drilling holes to use the 25mm mounts on my case (Thermaltake P5). Do you know the dimensions of those screws? I searched but couldn't find anything. Also on that note: I want to ditch the pump/res stand included with this case (the one which you'll see below) because the mounts push it over the edge. Does suspending the whole thing without a base increase chance of vibration?

Some variations I tried:

Red rods, black chrome cover:



Red rods, red cover



Black chrome rods, red cover



Black chrome rods, black chrome cover



Alternating rods, black chrome cover (credit to Deedaz for the alternating colors suggestion)



Alternating rods, red cover



In case with CCFL light and sitting on stand included with P5


----------



## Deedaz

I think the red pump cover looks best, can't decide for the rods though, they all look good.


----------



## loktite78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> You may be able to find a bykski block on aliexpress. They make a lot of blocks for non reference designs. I went this route for a friend's build.


thanx for the idea, but I think I will wait till Vega to redo the loop for gpu. Luckily the sapphire fury nitro is super quite


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Played with some combos today. Lining up rods for 2nd cap is probably the hardest part of the process but easy after a bit of trial and error the first time, assuming you have any semblance of hand-eye coordination. I love how straight-forward and efficient the building process is; by the third time disassembling and re-assembling it was a breeze.
> 
> I had a SATA power cable free on my current setup so decided to hook up the CCFL just to see how it looks and I'm a fan.
> 
> @BoxGods: Will be drilling holes to use the 25mm mounts on my case (Thermaltake P5). Do you know the dimensions of those screws? I searched but couldn't find anything. Also on that note: I want to ditch the pump/res stand included with this case (the one which you'll see below) because the mounts push it over the edge. Does suspending the whole thing without a base increase chance of vibration?
> 
> :


Not sure I understand the question. The screws are M4 if that is what you are asking.

As for suspending the reservoir. If you are using an FDP as the mount that is fine. If you are asking if you can use only one side mount...no. The reservoir should be supported in two places...they do not need to be on the ends, but two places.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think the red pump cover looks best, can't decide for the rods though, they all look good.


Not crazy about the mixed rods.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not sure I understand the question. The screws are M4 if that is what you are asking.
> 
> As for suspending the reservoir. If you are using an FDP as the mount that is fine. If you are asking if you can use only one side mount...no. The reservoir should be supported in two places...they do not need to be on the ends, but two places.


Thanks. With the screws was trying to figure out right drill bit size.

And I'd be using the two 25mm mounts.

I'm leaning towards black chrome rods, red pump cover, black chrome mounts.

Also got a little UV flashlight today to check out the UV red tubes under it. It does look cool but they appear almost orange-ish. And I did find a long slim black light that has metal mounts at the ends which I could attach to the top of the case to point down but with the two other LED lighting kits im planning to use, and the lights from the mobo, it may be a bit too much. The blood red tubes look awesome and seem to match everything better.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> I think the red pump cover looks best, can't decide for the rods though, they all look good.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Thanks. With the screws was trying to figure out right drill bit size.
> 
> And I'd be using the two 25mm mounts.
> 
> I'm leaning towards black chrome rods, red pump cover, black chrome mounts.
> 
> Also got a little UV flashlight today to check out the UV red tubes under it. It does look cool but they appear almost orange-ish. And I did find a long slim black light that has metal mounts at the ends which I could attach to the top of the case to point down but with the two other LED lighting kits im planning to use, and the lights from the mobo, it may be a bit too much. The blood red tubes look awesome and seem to match everything better.


Ah. You should not have to tap anything as the threads are on the molded parts. But you could be doing something different--use a 3.3mm drill if you are going to tap for M4. If you are just drilling thru-holes for M4 I would use an 5mm bit.

Also, just as an FYI, the CCFL bulbs for MMRS (and also our matching case lights) are available in UV. On the color of the red tube under UV light. You will likely not ever find a true red color under UV light--they all tend to be either "pinkish" or "orangish". That is because UV light is in the range below 400nm and red is on the other end of the visible light spectrum in the 700nm or so range. The most accurately reproduced UV color is blue and it is in the 450nm portion of the spectrum. Green UV--in the 550nm range--still looks pretty good but is starting to wash out towards yellow. If we could see into the 750 - 800nm range then there would be a killer UV red.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Ah. You should not have to tap anything as the threads are on the molded parts. But you could be doing something different--use a 3.3mm drill if you are going to tap for M4. If you are just drilling thru-holes for M4 I would use an 5mm bit.
> 
> Also, just as an FYI, the CCFL bulbs for MMRS (and also our matching case lights) are available in UV. On the color of the red tube under UV light. You will likely not ever find a true red color under UV light--they all tend to be either "pinkish" or "orangish". That is because UV light is in the range below 400nm and red is on the other end of the visible light spectrum in the 700nm or so range. The most accurately reproduced UV color is blue and it is in the 450nm portion of the spectrum. Green UV--in the 550nm range--still looks pretty good but is starting to wash out towards yellow. If we could see into the 750 - 800nm range then there would be a killer UV red.


Yes, thru holes for the drilling. Thanks.

Good info on the UV stuff too.

That made me curious so I was browsing more parts and now I've thought of a new setup. It is easy to get carried away with this stuff!

I'm picturing the 3 port cap with the dual side ports, with "back" top port as fill port and two CCFL reservoir plugs in red (or maybe another color) in the "front" top ports. One of the side ports will be inlet.

With the two plugs in the res and dual light behind it might be overkill but, if so, I have another place inside the case I could use it and mount with some zip ties and it would give a little red glow from within.

On the one hand I think, "Finalize the setup or you'll keep buying things forever!" but on the other the parts are so cheap and I assume I'll be able to recoup a bit for all unused things on marketplace here or somewhere. Plus, I'm the type of person who will look at the setup once built and occasionally question whether I should have tried out that combination, just in case I liked it better. And it'll bug the hell out of me!


----------



## MuxLee

are the D5 pumps "intel spec" re PWM
Has anybody connected them to an aquero 6 ?


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Hmmm...I think you need to run it outside to a 8" or 10": buried PVC pipe and use geo-thermal cooling =)
> 
> No wait! Run a parallel pipe down the wall for hamsters to use...or FISH...yeah FISH =)
> 
> Like I could ever come up with anything more insane than the stuff you do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> New stuff...tinkering with another line for MMRS with square tube and end caps, and killer aluminum sleeves for the tubes.= that can be cut to user defined shapes, and / or etched. Other than that I have been very focused on getting the boats out.


Haha, I live in texas same as you, would really need to go deep to get any value out of geo-thermal. Although I am having the A/C duct push directly behind the rads in the summer and putting an external vent with a blower fan to pump cool outside air in the winter to the rads so they are always getting nice cold air









Not gonna lie though, heavily contemplating a phase shift set up.

The square tubes sound awesome definitely gonna keep an eye out for those.

As a side note, I believe Laing updated their D5 pumps and are now E5 pumps. The new ones any better or did they just re-brand?

edit: Did you ever get around to doing your compressed earth building? Would love to see how that turned out.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Yes, thru holes for the drilling. Thanks.
> 
> Good info on the UV stuff too.
> 
> That made me curious so I was browsing more parts and now I've thought of a new setup. It is easy to get carried away with this stuff!
> 
> I'm picturing the 3 port cap with the dual side ports, with "back" top port as fill port and two CCFL reservoir plugs in red (or maybe another color) in the "front" top ports. One of the side ports will be inlet.
> 
> With the two plugs in the res and dual light behind it might be overkill but, if so, I have another place inside the case I could use it and mount with some zip ties and it would give a little red glow from within.
> 
> On the one hand I think, "Finalize the setup or you'll keep buying things forever!" but on the other the parts are so cheap and I assume I'll be able to recoup a bit for all unused things on marketplace here or somewhere. Plus, I'm the type of person who will look at the setup once built and occasionally question whether I should have tried out that combination, just in case I liked it better. And it'll bug the hell out of me!


That is EXACTLY why I tell people to get a few extra sticks of tube because you will almost certainly put in a segment and have one of those "Ah Ha" moments that require a change...and if you don't feed that creative instinct it will forever bug you.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*
> 
> Haha, I live in texas same as you, would really need to go deep to get any value out of geo-thermal. Although I am having the A/C duct push directly behind the rads in the summer and putting an external vent with a blower fan to pump cool outside air in the winter to the rads so they are always getting nice cold air
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not gonna lie though, heavily contemplating a phase shift set up.
> 
> The square tubes sound awesome definitely gonna keep an eye out for those.
> 
> As a side note, I believe Laing updated their D5 pumps and are now E5 pumps. The new ones any better or did they just re-brand?
> 
> edit: Did you ever get around to doing your compressed earth building? Would love to see how that turned out.


You would be shocked at how cool it is about 4 to 6 feet down. If you ran a 6" PVC pipe down 4 feet with a post hole digger and filled it up a PC could not generate enough heat fast enough to over power that simple setup. If you ran an inner 1/2" down tube it would thermal cycle pretty fast as well.

No on the rammed earth house. It is always on my someday list...so someday =)


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> are the D5 pumps "intel spec" re PWM
> Has anybody connected them to an aquero 6 ?


@BoxGods

simple question really , are the monsoon pumps compatible with motherboard headers / pwm spec for PWM control . If not how are they controlled ?

Mux


----------



## ruffhi

What monsoon pumps?


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> What monsoon pumps?


the ones sold as Monsoon D5 pumps

just checked the back of it it says
EK d5 pwm9-38/000-01


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Yes, thru holes for the drilling. Thanks.
> 
> Good info on the UV stuff too.
> 
> That made me curious so I was browsing more parts and now I've thought of a new setup. It is easy to get carried away with this stuff!
> 
> I'm picturing the 3 port cap with the dual side ports, with "back" top port as fill port and two CCFL reservoir plugs in red (or maybe another color) in the "front" top ports. One of the side ports will be inlet.
> 
> With the two plugs in the res and dual light behind it might be overkill but, if so, I have another place inside the case I could use it and mount with some zip ties and it would give a little red glow from within.
> 
> On the one hand I think, "Finalize the setup or you'll keep buying things forever!" but on the other the parts are so cheap and I assume I'll be able to recoup a bit for all unused things on marketplace here or somewhere. Plus, I'm the type of person who will look at the setup once built and occasionally question whether I should have tried out that combination, just in case I liked it better. And it'll bug the hell out of me!
> 
> 
> 
> That is EXACTLY why I tell people to get a few extra sticks of tube because you will almost certainly put in a segment and have one of those "Ah Ha" moments that require a change...and if you don't feed that creative instinct it will forever bug you.
Click to expand...

I just picked up another 4pk of acrylic, to extend my stock to 6 tubes. Burned through the first two tubes of my first pack(purchased 4 years ago) just fiddling around with things and a couple small runs. Hope to get my new MonoBlock for the CrosshairVIHero before Summer so I can dial in my new Ryzen platform. But I definitely agree with you for purchasing more. I will likely get two more boxes of White and a couple in Black for the CIVFormula system since I have all the blocks for that too.









~Ceadder


----------



## loktite78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I just picked up another 4pk of acrylic, to extend my stock to 6 tubes. Burned through the first two tubes of my first pack(purchased 4 years ago) just fiddling around with things and a couple small runs. Hope to get my new MonoBlock for the CrosshairVIHero before Summer so I can dial in my new Ryzen platform. But I definitely agree with you for purchasing more. I will likely get two more boxes of White and a couple in Black for the CIVFormula system since I have all the blocks for that too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The tubes are excellent, i have the blue. One this I found disappointing was that they only come in 24 inch sections!!! I could really use some longer tubes for some longer runs. I dislike using 90 degree fittings and like to bend all the corners.


----------



## ruffhi

The singles pack tubes come in 30".

Edit: Hmm ... different lengths for PETG v Acrylic. Acrylic is 24" for a pack of 4 or 30" by themselves. PETG is 36" for a pack of 4


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loktite78*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I just picked up another 4pk of acrylic, to extend my stock to 6 tubes. Burned through the first two tubes of my first pack(purchased 4 years ago) just fiddling around with things and a couple small runs. Hope to get my new MonoBlock for the CrosshairVIHero before Summer so I can dial in my new Ryzen platform. But I definitely agree with you for purchasing more. I will likely get two more boxes of White and a couple in Black for the CIVFormula system since I have all the blocks for that too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tubes are excellent, i have the blue. One this I found disappointing was that they only come in 24 inch sections!!! I could really use some longer tubes for some longer runs. I dislike using 90 degree fittings and like to bend all the corners.
Click to expand...

Doesn't say where you are at in your Profile but if you're in the States, you can get a 4pk of the Blue tubing at PPCs. The 4pks are just a touch over 2' in length for each tube.









~Ceadder


----------



## loktite78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Doesn't say where you are at in your Profile but if you're in the States, you can get a 4pk of the Blue tubing at PPCs. The 4pks are just a touch over 2' in length for each tube.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


The 4 packs of Acrylic are 24 inches long. They do have single tubes that are 30 inch long though. I was ordering all my stuff from Amazon, MUCH easier to return stuff, even more so if you are a prime member. I've used Frozen CPU before, so it was a Derp-a-Derp moment for me to not look there for longer tubes.

Thank you for pointing it out!


----------



## O3RD

@BoxGods

A question for you. i have 2 pieces of D5 pump mount kit. And, bought two reservoirs with 300mm rods. But, i missed to buy the most important part (MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount). But, after getting that and mounted to the reservoir i then will have only outlet of the pump no inlet. You have mentioned on your youtube channel that you'll release the mating kit. But, i cannot find on EU pages at least not in UK? What will be your suggestion?

-Ak


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> What monsoon pumps?
> 
> 
> 
> the ones sold as Monsoon D5 pumps
> 
> just checked the back of it it says
> EK d5 pwm9-38/000-01
Click to expand...

Monsoon doesn't rebrand or package pumps, thats a pump from EKWB.


----------



## Mega Man

To further clarify I would need to see the back of the pump. I think you do not need a diva mod, but again I need pics to verify


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Monsoon doesn't rebrand or package pumps, thats a pump from EKWB.


https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor

I think it should work looking at all that data ..... and I quote _"Laing D5 high-performance water pump motor with power management control (via PWM - pulse width modulation) of rotation speed trough motherboard BIOS or dedicated fan controller."_

the rear pic is on there too
cheers

Mux


----------



## havoc315

I just had to rma my 755s the white washer that has a split in it came off so I just went ahead and sent both back and ofc they charged restocking fee for both so now have to deal with that but I'm changing cases now for the 3rd time every time I get a case somehow I decide to add something extra like this last time I added a whole other pump/res combo for dual loop.
One loop for mobo, cpu and another for dual gpu.
Im thinking of going with the Tt 900 tower or the new tt p7 which I can't find anywhere to buy so guess the 900 or is...and seeing both of those are huge they should fit, now my question is what vertical mouth would be the best for the 900 tower seeing is it just stands in the middle of the case with nothing to attach to it looks like.
The original case was x71 then moved to v71 and neither will fit dual loop config with the long gpus and ofc having an eatx g1 board which technically it's one but just barely maybe over less than a inch in width and the case case you can see in the pic gives no room for the cables to go through the back and why I installed that plate, also if I were to put 1rad up top and move psu below so I could route cables through the bottom, the radiator covers the hole for the motherboard cooling by a bit so now I'm stuck with two cases I really just can't do what I want is what it comes down to. And on another not can't finish till get the new w/b's for my 1080ti's and two new pumps "Awesome" I'm going to have to buy another box of tubing to go with one I have lol, and somekind of mounting for vertical, I have both the standalone version and combo bottoms.

This is how I had originally.


And those are what I've used so far


----------



## havoc315

Oh and Gene i love those 90s you made that have tge accent disks, I'm using the carbon fiber ones and absolutely love them that black chrome you make is outstanding, it will defenetly be great with cables, I was thinking of a grey red and black, but idk for sure yet and I'm also thinking of painting my motherboard to get rid of the white...idk there are just too many options to go with when doing this lol I have already probably spent 7k in stuff including returns rmas and two gpus I now have to sell seeing as got the It's lol....this is my first time doing this also and it's been a thrill but it's also been a pain in some places, been at it for few months now.
On another point you got a email from a woman Denise a little bit ago about some lock collars from a distributor that had some issues with still having the old acrylic ones, well we just wanted to thank you for sending us some and glue to help fix the problem because we are going to have rebend all those tubes which probably just buy new ones from y'all again lol nothing like brand new tubes to work with.








Thanks again btw


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> the ones sold as Monsoon D5 pumps
> 
> just checked the back of it it says
> EK d5 pwm9-38/000-01


As Ruffy mentioned, we do not re-brand or repackage a D5 or clone. We just sell D5 pump tops.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *O3RD*
> 
> @BoxGods
> 
> A question for you. i have 2 pieces of D5 pump mount kit. And, bought two reservoirs with 300mm rods. But, i missed to buy the most important part (MMRS End Cap with D5 Pump Mount). But, after getting that and mounted to the reservoir i then will have only outlet of the pump no inlet. You have mentioned on your youtube channel that you'll release the mating kit. But, i cannot find on EU pages at least not in UK? What will be your suggestion?
> 
> -Ak


The mating kits are out--not sure if OCUK has stock or not--best to email them. You can always use the ports on the other end of the reservoir also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Oh and Gene i love those 90s you made that have tge accent disks, I'm using the carbon fiber ones and absolutely love them that black chrome you make is outstanding, it will defenetly be great with cables, I was thinking of a grey red and black, but idk for sure yet and I'm also thinking of painting my motherboard to get rid of the white...idk there are just too many options to go with when doing this lol I have already probably spent 7k in stuff including returns rmas and two gpus I now have to sell seeing as got the It's lol....this is my first time doing this also and it's been a thrill but it's also been a pain in some places, been at it for few months now.
> On another point you got a email from a woman Denise a little bit ago about some lock collars from a distributor that had some issues with still having the old acrylic ones, well we just wanted to thank you for sending us some and glue to help fix the problem because we are going to have rebend all those tubes which probably just buy new ones from y'all again lol nothing like brand new tubes to work with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again btw


I love your energy and enthusiasm









As for being addicted to water cooling and case modding...at least it is one addiction that doesn't kill brain cells or cause you to make an a$$ of yourself in public


----------



## straha20

Here are my red Monsoon EV2 compression collars...


----------



## Ceadderman

^Look White to me.











Still have unused(24 of them) EV1 fittings. Sadly, til I sell them, EV2 fitting are having to wait.









Unless Geno wishes to join my modest list of Sponsors.









~Ceadder


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Monsoon doesn't rebrand or package pumps, thats a pump from EKWB.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-d5-pwm-motor-12v-dc-pwm-pump-motor
> 
> I think it should work looking at all that data ..... and I quote _"Laing D5 high-performance water pump motor with power management control (via PWM - pulse width modulation) of rotation speed trough motherboard BIOS or dedicated fan controller."_
> 
> the rear pic is on there too
> cheers
> 
> Mux
Click to expand...

they dont follow intel PWM spec. in a few ways. look for the "diva mod" in the aquaero thread. some of the newer manufactures have however started doing an internal diva mod ( EK and aquaero )


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> they dont follow intel PWM spec. in a few ways. look for the "diva mod" in the aquaero thread. some of the newer manufactures have however started doing an internal diva mod ( EK and aquaero )


I BELIEVE with the EK PWM V2 pumps Divamod is not needed BUT Diva in Aquaero thread would be the person to ask for sure. Its been a long time since I read that part of the thread.


----------



## Mega Man

no it isnt . that is one of the 2 i mentioned

the old pumps rear sticker is lowra ( iirc- either way it isnt EK ) and the new one is EK branded on the sticker


----------



## MuxLee

this pump has an ek logo on the back ?


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> this pump has an ek logo on the back ?


As Mega noted already, the link you provided was for the old version of the EK D5 PWM pump.
the sticker on the back is Lowara branded.
That version will need the Diva mod installed to work with Aquaero, but should work with most motherboard headers.


The newer G2 version of D5 PWM pump from EK will work straight from the box with Aquaero and all motherboard headers.
It has the EK sticker on the back.


----------



## MuxLee

Great thanks ..... the part number I gave is correct but if they have old pics on their website they should update them. BTW its says 5 - 24v .

very confusing when someone sells you a "monsoon pump" when Monsoon don't make em


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *straha20*
> 
> Here are my red Monsoon EV2 compression collars...


Just curious...why not just buy white =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> Great thanks ..... the part number I gave is correct but if they have old pics on their website they should update them. BTW its says 5 - 24v .
> 
> very confusing when someone sells you a "monsoon pump" when Monsoon don't make em


As long as you know it isn't Monsoon doing that--we do not repackage or rebrand ANY D5 pumps. I have enough of my own mistakes to worry about


----------



## straha20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just curious...why not just buy white =)


I was having a difficult time finding them in the quantity I wanted, in a reasonable timeframe, and without piecemealing through five different vendors. Also, all the other parts I needed such as the 90 degree elbows, bulkheads, caps... When I can get a simple Barrow f/f 90 degree elbow for under $5,..the cost savings on one part alone is enough to cover the paint, never mind the savings on over a dozen of them This way, I was able to get the specific high gloss white that I wanted without having to worry about color consistency across fittings, or being limited to one specific manufacturer.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *straha20*
> 
> I was having a difficult time finding them in the quantity I wanted, in a reasonable timeframe, and without piecemealing through five different vendors. Also, all the other parts I needed such as the 90 degree elbows, bulkheads, caps... When I can get a simple Barrow f/f 90 degree elbow for under $5,..the cost savings on one part alone is enough to cover the paint, never mind the savings on over a dozen of them This way, I was able to get the specific high gloss white that I wanted without having to worry about color consistency across fittings, or being limited to one specific manufacturer.


Or you could have just waited until Barrow knocks off EV2 and gotten those a bit cheaper too.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Or you could have just waited until Barrow knocks off EV2 and gotten those a bit cheaper too.


Harsh social comment?









I think they are too busy knocking off some other fitting manufacturer.


----------



## straha20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Or you could have just waited until Barrow knocks off EV2 and gotten those a bit cheaper too.


The 90 degree f/f simple fitting in particular, it seems as if most of the brands have basically the same design, and really, there is not much that can be done to vary it besides putting a logo on it, and I am not a brand loyalist to the point where I will pay a premium for a logo.

The Monsoon EV2 1/2 inch rigid compression fittings though had the look I was after at a really great price point. These more complicated types of fittings where there are multiple moving part, multiple o rings, more potential failure points, there is some truth that you get what you pay for up to a point, and the Monsoon fittings that I bought were the absolute perfect balance between quality and price point.

The only issue I ran into was finding the stock of the color I wanted. One thing I will say though is that given how pleased I am with how the painting turned out, when it comes to the Monsoon compression fittings, lack of availability of a particular color is no longer a purchase consideration for me, making it more likely that I will purchase Monsoon in the future.

Now, you want to give me one of these...










For under $5, then I'll buy them and paint them all day long


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> As long as you know it isn't Monsoon doing that--we do not repackage or rebrand ANY D5 pumps. I have enough of my own mistakes to worry about


No problem


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *straha20*
> 
> I was having a difficult time finding them in the quantity I wanted, in a reasonable timeframe, and without piecemealing through five different vendors. Also, all the other parts I needed such as the 90 degree elbows, bulkheads, caps... When I can get a simple Barrow f/f 90 degree elbow for under $5,..the cost savings on one part alone is enough to cover the paint, never mind the savings on over a dozen of them This way, I was able to get the specific high gloss white that I wanted without having to worry about color consistency across fittings, or being limited to one specific manufacturer.
> 
> 
> 
> Or you could have just waited until Barrow knocks off EV2 and gotten those a bit cheaper too.
Click to expand...

and this is why i buy monsoon.

please dont change and dont stop telling us how you feel

on the flip side i have to admit, from what little i have seen they are starting to make their own stuff, aside of that, for me it is too little too late
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *straha20*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Or you could have just waited until Barrow knocks off EV2 and gotten those a bit cheaper too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 90 degree f/f simple fitting in particular, it seems as if most of the brands have basically the same design, and really, there is not much that can be done to vary it besides putting a logo on it, and I am not a brand loyalist to the point where I will pay a premium for a logo.
Click to expand...

i am sick of this argument. it is a false argument, was a false argument and will be a false argument.

there are tons of differences. our fittings are not standardized parts like copper fittings, like pvc.......



look at that, 4 COMPLETELY different 90s all from the same manufacture and none are exactly the same


look at that. 3 ADDITIONAL 90deg fittings that look COMPLETELY different from 3 ADDITIONAL manufactures and all perform the same function yet are very different.

false arguments always fail, fyi
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *straha20*
> 
> The Monsoon EV2 1/2 inch rigid compression fittings though had the look I was after at a really great price point. These more complicated types of fittings where there are multiple moving part, multiple o rings, more potential failure points, there is some truth that you get what you pay for up to a point, and the Monsoon fittings that I bought were the absolute perfect balance between quality and price point.
> 
> The only issue I ran into was finding the stock of the color I wanted. One thing I will say though is that given how pleased I am with how the painting turned out, when it comes to the Monsoon compression fittings, lack of availability of a particular color is no longer a purchase consideration for me, making it more likely that I will purchase Monsoon in the future.
> 
> Now, you want to give me one of these...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For under $5, then I'll buy them and paint them all day long


or . you could accept that the R and D on these things is excessively costly and someone has to actually pay for it. while others have bypassed this product phase and just stolen it. you can continue to use said product, but it shows where your heart lies. and it is not in innovation.


----------



## straha20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and this is why i buy monsoon.
> 
> please dont change and dont stop telling us how you feel
> 
> on the flip side i have to admit, from what little i have seen they are starting to make their own stuff, aside of that, for me it is too little too late
> i am sick of this argument. it is a false argument, was a false argument and will be a false argument.
> 
> there are tons of differences. our fittings are not standardized parts like copper fittings, like pvc.......
> 
> 
> 
> look at that, 4 COMPLETELY different 90s all from the same manufacture and none are exactly the same
> 
> 
> look at that. 3 ADDITIONAL 90deg fittings that look COMPLETELY different from 3 ADDITIONAL manufactures and all perform the same function yet are very different.
> 
> false arguments always fail, fyi
> or . you could accept that the R and D on these things is excessively costly and someone has to actually pay for it. while others have bypassed this product phase and just stolen it. you can continue to use said product, but it shows where your heart lies. and it is not in innovation.


Lets try and keep it honest here as none of those fittings you showed pictures of are simple as in no moving parts, lights, compression point 90 degree f/f fittings, and none of them resemble what I posted a picture of or described. Well, one of them comes sort of close, but to continue with what you said, show me where any manufacturer has four different versions of what I posted and described. They don't.

In fact, I explicitly stated that in the more complex fittings with multiple moving parts, multiple sealing points, that yes, you get what you pay for which is why for those compression fittings, I went with the Monsoon EV2. I certainly could have gone cheaper, but as I said already, they are quality parts that look the way I want them to at a good price point.

My only problem was that I could not find the quantity I needed in the color I wanted, so I bought a bunch, and painted them the exact color I wanted. My main point with the painting is that for some people, the color is a major purchase consideration, which is fine as some people can't or won't paint them, but it does not have to be a consideration, which expands their buying options. And as far as I could tell in looking on the various water cooling parts sites, and Monsoons site itself, Monsoon does not manufacture a simple 90 degree f/f low profile fitting like I was wanting.


----------



## Mega Man

"lets be honest"

NONE of these are anything but simple.

ALL of the above bitzpower can be found in simple M/M or m/f 90s

if by simple you and i have a language barrier which i assume not due to the linguistics you use and by "simple" you mean non rotary my first response is " why"

by more complicated i assumed you ment these



although due to use it is harder to make stand out differently, they still do.

and lastly on topic. if you are seriously not using rotary fittings i would highly recommend trying them- the quality ones are amazing and far better to work with

completely OT i just saw these and wow. i really like the visual


----------



## straha20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> "lets be honest"
> 
> NONE of these are anything but simple.
> 
> ALL of the above bitzpower can be found in simple M/M or m/f 90s
> 
> if by simple you and i have a language barrier which i assume not due to the linguistics you use and by "simple" you mean non rotary my first response is " why"
> 
> by more complicated i assumed you ment these
> 
> 
> 
> although due to use it is harder to make stand out differently, they still do.
> 
> and lastly on topic. if you are seriously not using rotary fittings i would highly recommend trying them- the quality ones are amazing and far better to work with
> 
> completely OT i just saw these and wow. i really like the visual


Yes, simple vs complex as in a block of metal with nothing but two threaded holes vs articulation points, compression points, lights, etc. Simple where the only point of failure is going to be bad threads.

I have looked extensively at the rotary fittings, and yeah, they look like they would be decent to work with, but none of them across the various manufacturers fit the aesthetic I am going for in this particular build.


----------



## Ceadderman

Who makes that bottom fitting MM? Please tell me that's not Tt?









~Ceadder


----------



## GraphicsWhore

I guess predictably my drain port setup - a T, to 90, to extender, to valve - is causing the T to sag. With a tube in it, it would be fine, but am I justified in worrying that the constant pull on that tube, however little, will eventually cause issues?



Got my 3 port, dual side port cap and red plug. Waiting for a second plug as I'd like two in the res, so for now stuck it in the port closest to case. Looks good.



Still nervous as hell about the tube bending. I just used a coat hanger to do some rough measurements and I have an extra set of tubes and I'm STILL worried I'm going to f up one of the double-bends and have only one other chance to get it right. Nothing is lining up like I had originally planned/hoped for. Rigidity be damned!


----------



## Mega Man

good news. it isnt

( click either category to see them )
@BoxGods not trying to hijack your thread sorry


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> I guess predictably my drain port setup - a T, to 90, to extender, to valve - is causing the T to sag. With a tube in it, it would be fine, but am I justified in worrying that the constant pull on that tube, however little, will eventually cause issues?
> 
> 
> 
> Got my 3 port, dual side port cap and red plug. Waiting for a second plug as I'd like two in the res, so for now stuck it in the port closest to case. Looks good.
> 
> 
> 
> Still nervous as hell about the tube bending. I just used a coat hanger to do some rough measurements and I have an extra set of tubes and I'm STILL worried I'm going to f up one of the double-bends and have only one other chance to get it right. Nothing is lining up like I had originally planned/hoped for. Rigidity be damned!


Bending is actually pretty easy. For the double bend tubes, just remember you can trim the ends so all you really need to get right is the distance between bends. I did mine free hand, using the lines on the linoleum floor to get my 90's. Only took 2 attempts to get this one.



Here's a finished pic too, I'll have more pics in the log on Monday.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Bending is actually pretty easy. For the double bend tubes, just remember you can trim the ends so all you really need to get right is the distance between bends. I did mine free hand, using the lines on the linoleum floor to get my 90's. Only took 2 attempts to get this one.


Looks great. Where exactly do you measure to account for the bend?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Bending is actually pretty easy. For the double bend tubes, just remember you can trim the ends so all you really need to get right is the distance between bends. I did mine free hand, using the lines on the linoleum floor to get my 90's. Only took 2 attempts to get this one.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great. Where exactly do you measure to account for the bend?
Click to expand...

I simulate the tube bend with the silicone insert and just kinda eyeball it. The first tube I did was just a bit long between the bends, so I used that as a guide when I did the second one and got it just right.


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Looks great. Where exactly do you measure to account for the bend?


So far this has been my first time doing bending and i have gone through two different cases doing it because my loop keeps growing or should say loops now, although my first attempt at bending complex bends and when i say that u can see in the pic i tried various methods, now on some bends you may end up having to do it free handed but on something like what he did i found after loads of trial and error that genes mandrel set and measuring rulers were a god send once i actually used them like he shows in the video, originally i only used when doing just a single bend now i actually take the time to measure it out then i put it on the table and measure the distance between the two points "center line" of the hole and i just do two at a time like that using maybe another mandrel to keep it in place in the longer bend. I would highly suggest watching his video if you have not yet, i promise u will not regret it, although it does take longer and you have to take your time doing it but whats a few hours of measuring for a perfect build and less of a headache worrying that you have now ruined the only extra piece you had and now have to order more.
This is just my experience and i have used free hand, rigid tube bender, cutting mat with grids, and the measure and mandrel set. Out of all of those the mandrels worked the best for most bends, now some like i said you may have to get creative with.





And btw I'm moving this build now into thermaltake 900 supertower case as to have as much room as I want lol, I'm also in the process of finding new radiator and two new pumps seeing as I had the vpp755 white washer problem as in it fell off so yeah.
Now with this new cas3 I have to figure out if I want to decouple my res combo or keep it together, I already have the standalone tip as well, also have to figure which way to mount them.
I'm thinking using the vertical mount if I keep the pump/res combo or using the drain/fill port top as a base and mount the base of my res to the bottoms and moving the pump somewhere else and using the provided grasshopper stand for it. I really like 2nd option as seeing I get to show off the standalone pump plus my res, ohhh the choices lol
My case arrives today so I will have time to do some measurements before placing another order for the extras I will be needing, adding a extra gpu also to this loop now....like I said every time it gets bigger


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Looks great. Where exactly do you measure to account for the bend?


If you have the monsoon bending kit ... it is strong on measuring all distances from the middle of the tube ... and then bending so the middles line up. I ended up measuring from the outside of both tubes ... so for the green bends shown above, measure from the outside of the tube coming from the radiator to the outside of the tube going down into the mid-plate. Make that on your wall / paper / desk / linoleum floor (what ever guide you want).
Make the first bend and then work hard to get your second bend where you need it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> good news. it isnt
> 
> ( click either category to see them )
> @BoxGods not trying to hijack your thread sorry


No worries =)

Those are pretty cool, and proof that you CAN compete with new designs rather than stealing existing designs. I always welcome *honest* competition in the market place. Innovation and aesthetic choice is good for us all. It is why every guy in here builds his own rig in the first place right?


----------



## Ceadderman

I know it's why I do. I would rather invest in innovative products over the same ol rubber stamped designs. It's why I chose Monsoon so many years ago and why I choose to pay more for BP and EK products when I cannot get parts from Monsoon. And the only reason I would name drop here other than Monsoon.









Sent follow up PM Geno.









~Ceadder


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Drilled into my case to suspend the res/pump combo and ditch the stand that comes with the case. The holes are only made to secure a Thermaltake model res and I really wanted my unit to be secured and not just sitting freely. 5/32 drill bit worked perfectly.

Let me tell you that holding the res cap, CCFL plugs, front mount, back mount AND screw together, while keeping holes lined up and screwing in, was not fun! But amazingly I didn't fubar the measurements and everything went in and the unit is level.


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I know it's why I do. I would rather invest in innovative products over the same ol rubber stamped designs. It's why I chose Monsoon so many years ago and why I choose to pay more for BP and EK products when I cannot get parts from Monsoon. And the only reason I would name drop here other than Monsoon.


It's a good way to be but man, I could not do it on my build. I went with one of the least innovative companies out there, Barrow, and my fittings were $370. If I'd gone with Bitspower it would have been around $1000. For fittings.

I didn't mind paying $200 (inc international shipping) for a Monsoon reservoir but there's no way I can spend 10% of my build budget on fittings.


----------



## Ceadderman

I piecemeal my fitting purchases. Takes longer but it's the best way to handle purchases on a budget.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Drilled into my case to suspend the res/pump combo and ditch the stand that comes with the case. The holes are only made to secure a Thermaltake model res and I really wanted my unit to be secured and not just sitting freely. 5/32 drill bit worked perfectly.
> 
> Let me tell you that holding the res cap, CCFL plugs, front mount, back mount AND screw together, while keeping holes lined up and screwing in, was not fun! But amazingly I didn't fubar the measurements and everything went in and the unit is level.


Looks like you NAILED it tho


----------



## Radnad

I think everyone should take a deep breath and chill on the harsh criticisms of "copycat". Even the all mighty do it when they realize its what the masses want.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-af-angled-90-2f-g1-4-black

Buy with your heart and mind, not your cynicism.


----------



## Ceadderman

I guess you never saw their original design Rad. A cube design showing their logo? The one you linked to is pretty difficult to improve upon. Although one fitting is hardly enough to dismiss other companies who regularly steal outright without regard to the competition.

So, my apologies but I am gonna ignore your request. I refuse to do business with knockoff artists and will continue to voice my opinion on the matter.









~Ceadder


----------



## Deedaz

Almost forgot to post some final pics in here. Love these fittings!







More pics in the log.


----------



## Ceadderman

OH!DAT BUILD!









~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> I guess you never saw their original design Rad. A cube design showing their logo? The one you linked to is pretty difficult to improve upon. Although one fitting is hardly enough to dismiss other companies who regularly steal outright without regard to the competition.
> 
> So, my apologies but I am gonna ignore your request. I refuse to do business with knockoff artists and will continue to voice my opinion on the matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Yes I've seen the cube fitting, but it is considered a splitter not an elbow per se, and absolutely I wouldn't expect anyone to ignore their feelings and opinions, its after all what makes liberty and freedom of choice such a grand thing, haha!


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Hoping for a short quick answer and thanks guys for answering ahead of time. Trying to get my order in before the Easter coupon drops at PPCs. hehe. On one of my res's i will have the return coming in the top so I don't want splashing bubbles etc. Gonna use two 200mm monsson res's and was wondering what you guys use to keep the splash down. Will this work? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm

Or is there a monsoon one I can get a link to or what do your guys use. Monsoon plugs and rods are gonna be Black Chrome on the CPU res.

Epic AMD, VEGA, Monsoon, EK, Phanteks Primo dual loop build incoming. Gonna be epic. This will be the last one. I swear this will be the last one. hehe


----------



## Ceadderman

Nope. Get Trident insert.









~Ceadder


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Hoping for a short quick answer and thanks guys for answering ahead of time. Trying to get my order in before the Easter coupon drops at PPCs. hehe. On one of my res's i will have the return coming in the top so I don't want splashing bubbles etc. Gonna use two 200mm monsson res's and was wondering what you guys use to keep the splash down. Will this work? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> 
> Or is there a monsoon one I can get a link to or what do your guys use. Monsoon plugs and rods are gonna be Black Chrome on the CPU res.
> 
> Epic AMD, VEGA, Monsoon, EK, Phanteks Primo dual loop build incoming. Gonna be epic. This will be the last one. I swear this will be the last one. hehe


That EK part looks like it's only compatible with the EK series of tubes.

I'm considering using one of my top ports as an inlet and I just ordered one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Aqua-Fitting-Black-Sparkle/dp/B017GM4B2C/ref=pd_sbs_147_8?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B017GM4B2C&pd_rd_r=3V925NF4ZXWHS189G625&pd_rd_w=X4FPg&pd_rd_wg=CmJwx&psc=1&refRID=3V925NF4ZXWHS189G625

Will be getting today (same-day delivery is awesome!) for my Monsoon res. Will let you know how it turns out.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Hoping for a short quick answer and thanks guys for answering ahead of time. Trying to get my order in before the Easter coupon drops at PPCs. hehe. On one of my res's i will have the return coming in the top so I don't want splashing bubbles etc. Gonna use two 200mm monsson res's and was wondering what you guys use to keep the splash down. Will this work? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> 
> Or is there a monsoon one I can get a link to or what do your guys use. Monsoon plugs and rods are gonna be Black Chrome on the CPU res.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Epic AMD, VEGA, Monsoon, EK, Phanteks Primo dual loop build incoming. Gonna be epic. This will be the last one. I swear this will be the last one. hehe


The MMRS Trident Anti Vortex Ceadderman mention will stop vortexing in the res.
BUT
It won't stop air being injected into the coolant from a return line mounted on top of the res.

For that you need an "aqua pipe" which is fitted from the outside because the MMRS end cap is too "thin" to accommodate a fitting both inside and outside.
Therefore the Bitspower internal Aqua Pipe does not work

However Barrow have an external "aqua tube" which is perfect for the job.
Available with short or long internal stem.
It does add a little height to the res/fitting assembly
BUT using one will eliminates air being introduced into the coolant









*EDIT:* That BP external tube @GraphicsWhore just linked will work too


----------



## Ceadderman

Apologies, I was thinking everyone does like I do, by filling the loop until there is no air in the Res. But yeah, there are those who run partially filled Reservoirs.









Also I need to stop posting before the first two cups of coffee in the AM.









~Ceadder


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies, I was thinking everyone does like I do, by filling the loop until there is no air in the Res. But yeah, there are those who run partially filled Reservoirs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *In reality I think it is impossible to completely fill a tube reservoir, and no matter how full you get it, a loop with good flow rate will mix air into the coolant from the tiniest of air gaps at the top of a res if return line is not below the fluid level.
> and that's once you think you have the loop bled of air. we all know where the introduced air is going, back into the hidey-hole corners of radiators and blocks meaning you're fighting a loosing battle against air in the loop.
> Reality is that an inlet pipe for top mounted return lines are not a luxury BUT a necessity.*
> 
> Also I need to stop posting before the first two cups of coffee in the AM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *On this I think we can agree*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JK Bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *19DELTASNAFU*
> 
> Hoping for a short quick answer and thanks guys for answering ahead of time. Trying to get my order in before the Easter coupon drops at PPCs. hehe. On one of my res's i will have the return coming in the top so I don't want splashing bubbles etc. Gonna use two 200mm monsson res's and was wondering what you guys use to keep the splash down. Will this work? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-res-x3-internal-tube-12-16-40mm
> 
> Or is there a monsoon one I can get a link to or what do your guys use. Monsoon plugs and rods are gonna be Black Chrome on the CPU res.
> 
> Epic AMD, VEGA, Monsoon, EK, Phanteks Primo dual loop build incoming. Gonna be epic. This will be the last one. I swear this will be the last one. hehe


So got the Bitspower pipe in black sparkle and it looks good and fits well. Link : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017GM4B2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The actual down-stem is 2.5" and the entire thing is a little over 3".



With Monsoon fitting





On a somewhat related note, I got a second plug for the reservoir. I like having four lights like this but not 100% certain this will make it into the final build; may just go with one.

The res looks like a dude with dreadlocks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Apologies, I was thinking everyone does like I do, by filling the loop until there is no air in the Res. But yeah, there are those who run partially filled Reservoirs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *In reality I think it is impossible to completely fill a tube reservoir, and no matter how full you get it, a loop with good flow rate will mix air into the coolant from the tiniest of air gaps at the top of a res if return line is not below the fluid level.
> and that's once you think you have the loop bled of air. we all know where the introduced air is going, back into the hidey-hole corners of radiators and blocks meaning you're fighting a loosing battle against air in the loop.
> Reality is that an inlet pipe for top mounted return lines are not a luxury BUT a necessity.*
> 
> Also I need to stop posting before the first two cups of coffee in the AM.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *On this I think we can agree*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JK Bro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
Click to expand...

Actually, I did fill the loop in my signature rig all the way. It took some time to allow the air to escape out of the fill port tube but it can be done. Just leave the cap off until the is a slowing of top ups.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

It is actually not all that hard to get all the air out. People often forget that there is nothing stopping you from laying the case on either side to break loose any air pockets in the loop. And if you are using a fill port your reservoir has a reservoir of its own.


----------



## Mega Man

Bitspower has one as well fyi


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Bitspower has one as well fyi


Literally linked to it and posted pics a couple of posts up


----------



## Mega Man

oooo i got ninjaed :x ( was at the museum with the family )and didnt refresh


----------



## nullreference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*


This is the Monsoon Black Chrome hardware, correct? Also what size Reservoir are you using? Trying to match up a good downstem color and size for my MMRS (Also in a P5):


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullreference*
> 
> This is the Monsoon Black Chrome hardware, correct? Also what size Reservoir are you using? Trying to match up a good downstem color and size for my MMRS (Also in a P5):


Correct, black chrome. Res is 250.


----------



## Inelastic

Trying out a lighting scheme for my new reservoir.

Rocket Pop anyone?


----------



## TOOLP

How did you mount the LEDs and witch Software are you using to controll the Arduino? Or do you upload a new sketch evrytime you want to change the Lighting?


----------



## sanick

Just don't light it with undiffused LEDs!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Trying out a lighting scheme for my new reservoir.
> 
> Rocket Pop anyone?


Man I love that honey / gold color. Would be awesome with some sort of hornet themed build.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> How did you mount the LEDs and witch Software are you using to controll the Arduino? Or do you upload a new sketch evrytime you want to change the Lighting?


For that, I'm just using a simple test sketch. But, I wrote my own windows app along with a large sketch to control it. I just didn't want to have to hook it up to the Arduino in m pc right now. It controls all my led strips as well as the lighting on my new Thermaltake Riing fans. You can see the program on my monitor on the left side in the first photo. I mounted them by sticking them into a led extrusion and taped the rail to the back. It'll be hidden enough in my new build that it won't really be seen.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanick*
> 
> Just don't light it with undiffused LEDs!


Lol, that's actually an annoyance for me, which is why I purchased the frosted reservoir. I would suggest for you to use an extrusion that has a frosted diffuser on them. Something like what they sell here. If you get the dense 144 leds/m type and use their frosted matte diffuser, then it should look even (according to them).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man I love that honey / gold color. Would be awesome with some sort of hornet themed build.


I'm working on a new build that will have that color in it. All the parts are going to be black chrome, black, and gray, but the colors will be done with lighting. I'll have the reservoir, my Trident RGB ram, and my fans that color. The case will be lit up with white light. I'm still thinking about the tubing and may even run clear tubing with dye, but I haven't fully decided on it. I like the idea of being able to swap out the colors easily so I may just run either black tubing or possibly white.


----------



## I-Siamak-I

Hello Guys, I'm planning to buy the Monsoon MMRS Reservoir with the D5 pump top for the buttom and another 3 port top for the top part of the res, I'm planning on using this in a Evolv ATX TG Case and going to be mounting it on either the 280 60mm Alphacool rad in front.

questions:

1. Will these Monsoon MMRS Res/pump combo cause noise/viberation when attached to the Rad or the case? ( I Currently have a EK Revo 140 res/pump combo without issue )

2. Is it even possible to mount the MMRS to a 280 Rad?

3. If its possible to mount it to the rad, is it better to have it mounted to the back of the case or the rad or it won't matter?


----------



## DNMock

Gene, just out of curiosity are you guys kicking around any ideas on producing fan controllers perhaps in the near future?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I-Siamak-I*
> 
> Hello Guys, I'm planning to buy the Monsoon MMRS Reservoir with the D5 pump top for the buttom and another 3 port top for the top part of the res, I'm planning on using this in a Evolv ATX TG Case and going to be mounting it on either the 280 60mm Alphacool rad in front.
> 
> questions:
> 
> 1. Will these Monsoon MMRS Res/pump combo cause noise/viberation when attached to the Rad or the case? ( I Currently have a EK Revo 140 res/pump combo without issue )
> 
> 2. Is it even possible to mount the MMRS to a 280 Rad?
> 
> 3. If its possible to mount it to the rad, is it better to have it mounted to the back of the case or the rad or it won't matter?


This is what you would need to mount it to the 280 rad. I haven't used a rad mount so I can't tell you about noise. I have some thin foam from radiator gaskets I used on another build that I use as a cushion between the mount and the case. I don't notice any vibration/noise, but the system sits about 5 ft from me. All the mounting options are pretty strong so use whichever fits your build best.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I-Siamak-I*
> 
> Hello Guys, I'm planning to buy the Monsoon MMRS Reservoir with the D5 pump top for the buttom and another 3 port top for the top part of the res, I'm planning on using this in a Evolv ATX TG Case and going to be mounting it on either the 280 60mm Alphacool rad in front.
> 
> questions:
> 
> 1. Will these Monsoon MMRS Res/pump combo cause noise/viberation when attached to the Rad or the case? ( I Currently have a EK Revo 140 res/pump combo without issue )
> 
> 2. Is it even possible to mount the MMRS to a 280 Rad?
> 
> 3. If its possible to mount it to the rad, is it better to have it mounted to the back of the case or the rad or it won't matter?


They make a 140 rad/fan mount just like the 120, and I've had no problems with vibration or noise from mine.


----------



## sanick

Instead of modding my case I've chucked a shoggy sandwich under my res. It feels so solid but so squishy.


----------



## MuxLee

Did some painting


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> Did some painting


Is that a metallic blue?


----------



## MuxLee

some of it .... its a mixture of navy blue , neon blue and metallic blue

theres more in the build log in my sig


----------



## nullreference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Actually, I did fill the loop in my signature rig all the way. It took some time to allow the air to escape out of the fill port tube but it can be done. Just leave the cap off until the is a slowing of top ups.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


On the subject of properly bleeding all the air out, any advice for my current build? It seems like air gets stuck a lot in the top of the radiator while the pump is running, because the reservoir and fill port is not at a higher position than the top most tubing run and the radiator's higher channels. I've ordered a multiport top and going to use that as a fillport instead of the current Y-Fitting system I have going on. Attempting to fill through the Y-fitting while the system is running doesn't seem to work out too well because of the flow restriction imposed by the down stem and the fill port position being below other water points in the case.
This causes the water to flow into the fill port on the other side of the Y-Fitting unless the pressure is taken out of the system. So when I turn the system off to fill, most of the water in the tube and radiator above the reservoir balances out and fills the reservoir when the pressure releases.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullreference*
> 
> On the subject of properly bleeding all the air out, any advice for my current build? It seems like air gets stuck a lot in the top of the radiator while the pump is running, because the reservoir and fill port is not at a higher position than the top most tubing run and the radiator's higher channels. I've ordered a multiport top and going to use that as a fillport instead of the current Y-Fitting system I have going on. Attempting to fill through the Y-fitting while the system is running doesn't seem to work out too well because of the flow restriction imposed by the down stem and the fill port position being below other water points in the case.
> This causes the water to flow into the fill port on the other side of the Y-Fitting unless the pressure is taken out of the system. So when I turn the system off to fill, most of the water in the tube and radiator above the reservoir balances out and fills the reservoir when the pressure releases.


Get a 50mm tube section and the side port coupler. Attach the return to the side port below the 50mm section. Run the system and purge the air making sure it's filled over the side port. Issue solved... The fluid can't drain out because the air pressure pushing down in the res exerts equal pressure in both the pump and side port direction. Since fluid is not compressible the fluid does not move. I would suggest running the pumps for 12-24 hours before turning it off the first time while tilting the system to make sure all the air is out of the loop.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Or the multiport top... 1 for return line with a tube fitting that submerged the end below res water level and another to fill with... same concept


----------



## nullreference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> Or the multiport top... 1 for return line with a tube fitting that submerged the end below res water level and another to fill with... same concept


Yeah, I figure the multiport top will be much easier to maintain. Thanks!


----------



## ArcaneScroll

Anyone know if the 12mm mounts from the Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount kit are available separately? I'm working with some serious clearance issues, and hanging the res off the rad, and the 25mm ones are just a couple hairs too big.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcaneScroll*
> 
> Anyone know if the 12mm mounts from the Monsoon MMRS Vertical Mount kit are available separately? I'm working with some serious clearance issues, and hanging the res off the rad, and the 25mm ones are just a couple hairs too big.


They are but not all re-sellers stock them.


----------



## ArcaneScroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> They are but not all re-sellers stock them.


Okay, thanks, I'll try finding them. I don't mind buying the kits, but I hate wasting parts.


----------



## havoc315

So I got my new case the other day a thermaltake the tower 900 and have been waiting on my 1080ti blocks before I can get started but I am almost done with the motherboard tray.
Now I am thinking of changing the layout of my two reservoirs and you can see in the picture I have pretty much everything I need to mount it in anyway I want but my question is will the drain/fill port hold the reservoir up horizontally?
Any ideas or thoughts on what I got going on there, it was just a thought that came to me a bit ago, I've been over looking at different positions for them and it seems that I like the idea of attaching it to the back horizantaly. There is one other thought though, is if I have the top against the motherboard tray and the bottom goes down at a 45° angle. I think I have seen that somewhere before though and I would really not like to copy someone and I haven't seen anyone mount it horizantaly like in my picture. Any thoughts would be appreciated especially if that drain port will hold it alone.




this was my original idea but with the pump attached to the res.

I also have 25mm mounts as well, and the grasshopper stand that came with the standalone pump mount.


----------



## Deedaz

The FDP is really strong. I had a 300ish res on my X9 build attached with the FDP and it had no problems holding the res when I turned the case on its side to bleed air.


----------



## MuxLee

I have them vertical , but they need fixing at both ends to be safe


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> The FDP is really strong. I had a 300ish res on my X9 build attached with the FDP and it had no problems holding the res when I turned the case on its side to bleed air.


Great, In the beginning when I was going to be using it just in a vertical stance and was going to run the in line from the middle of my case where the hard drives are kept. Doing this I would have to run the line over and down at a 45 degree angle and then a 90 to a passthrough and was really worried about how I was going to fill the damn thing lol, but now it is all solved because to fill I just flip the case forward and drain flip backwards, plus having a drain at the bottom of each of my radiators should help also.
Now knowing it will hold that helps a lot also because this case is so big I really doubt I will be able to turn it upside down either, nor do j think the top could support the weight either.
I really wanted to mount them from the top of the case and have them hanging, but I just don't see a way that would look good and now intrude on the visuals of the other components.
Btw love the products guys is there any talk of developing some kind of inline adapter or any new adapters other than the 45 and 90?


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> I have them vertical , but they need fixing at both ends to be safe


Would tubing going down to the pump not be enough or would I need to use a standoff? Btw my res is only a 150, so it's not a really huge res.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> I have them vertical , but they need fixing at both ends to be safe
> 
> 
> 
> Would tubing going down to the pump not be enough or would I need to use a standoff? Btw my res is only a 150, so it's not a really huge res.
Click to expand...

With that short of a res it will be fine. This is the one I had bolted to the floor and was fine when I flipped the case.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Would tubing going down to the pump not be enough or would I need to use a standoff? Btw my res is only a 150, so it's not a really huge res.


that's what I have , with fluid and fittings they are heavy , I have a combo of 100 and 50 tubes so more fittings but I wouldn't rely on tube as a structural support . do a test you will see them sagging after a while , I went back to vertical with top and bottom supports


----------



## havoc315

Do you think maybe that the reason of sagging was due to the structural Integrity of what it was attached to and not that of the product? It seems like once it is attached it is pretty strong material that the FDP is made out of especially used in conjunction with the metal support it uses for attaching it to whatever, and including the bars it just seems that the whole design would act as kind of reinforcements for it.
I could always strengthen what I'm attaching it to but I think it's pretty sturdy seeing as it is only about 100mm wide.
I will do some strength tests on it though after installation, and if it fails I will just have to use a standoff at the furthest point i guess even though that would just really through off the look I was going for lol
*edit: One other thing, the tube running to the pump I'm hoping that it will be a straight line to it and if it is, that "should" be enough i would hope.


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> With that short of a res it will be fine. This is the one I had bolted to the floor and was fine when I flipped the case.


That's what I was thinking as well, I'll do some tests on what I'm mounting it to though just to be sure and if any doubts I'll just reinforce the panel with something.
* edit: love the build roo btw really nice, don't know if I would have gone with soft ru ing though. Guess I am just partial to the hardline tube look, plus I've heard to many bad things about the plastisizers that leach out into your system and can cause issues.


----------



## b0oMeR

HOW MACH HOW MACH


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> Do you think maybe that the reason of sagging was due to the structural Integrity of what it was attached to and not that of the product? It seems like once it is attached it is pretty strong material that the FDP is made out of especially used in conjunction with the metal support it uses for attaching it to whatever, and including the bars it just seems that the whole design would act as kind of reinforcements for it.
> I could always strengthen what I'm attaching it to but I think it's pretty sturdy seeing as it is only about 100mm wide.
> I will do some strength tests on it though after installation, and if it fails I will just have to use a standoff at the furthest point i guess even though that would just really through off the look I was going for lol
> *edit: One other thing, the tube running to the pump I'm hoping that it will be a straight line to it and if it is, that "should" be enough i would hope.





after testing the one on the right is fine the one on the left lists without top support


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> after testing the one on the right is fine the one on the left lists without top support


You do realize that what is your top "the fill/drain port" will be my bottom per say, and that is what will be attached to the back panel using the pass through add-on that is the other part of that fill port. The other part will be on the back side of the panel holding it out.
It just seemed maybe you did not understand that because of how you have your rez turned up, i would have mine the same way though if i was doing a vertical mount but this is not the case.
*edit: How you did your setup with the divide in the middle was originally how i wanted my setup but the case i had before could not support a larger one and i had already purchased the 150 res, and now if i do what i want to do mounting it horizontally i will be almost perfect in size wise, it would bring the res all the way to the edge with enough room for a 90 degree fitting on the end.


----------



## MuxLee

have a look in my sig - I went through all sorts of configs and decided that is the best ...(for me and my case lol ) however I am open to suggestions for improvement.

I think the thread in the end cap is gone on the left hand side so I will need to fill it and tap it out , lucky its at the back .

I was/am using the vertical stands are you doing something different ?


----------



## havoc315

One last thing is if i do have my res mounted in a horizantly should i use a aqua tube if i come in through the top port if im pulling fr
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> have a look in my sig - I went through all sorts of configs and decided that is the best ...(for me and my case lol ) however I am open to suggestions for improvement.
> 
> I think the thread in the end cap is gone on the left hand side so I will need to fill it and tap it out , lucky its at the back .
> 
> I was/am using the vertical stands are you doing something different ?


That sucks, having stripped it but if you use This then you can mount it horizontally, vertically and can hang it from the top of the case even. That piece gives you freedom to move away from the wall of your case, and that is what i love about it, it is large enough and made very sturdy so you can do just about any config you want with it.
Each one of the stands that monsoon has, has its own purpose and place to use it. It allows the builder to decide how he wants to mount it and not how the case makes you mount it, and that is why i chose Monsoon's MMRS. My entire build is modular, except my radiators which hopefully one day i will have enough cash to grab those from Aquacomputer "sorry for dropping another company in here".
I just like that manufactures are now starting to give use the options to change what we want and not be constrained by only one or two options.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> One last thing is if i do have my res mounted in a horizantly should i use a aqua tube if i come in through the top port if im pulling fr
> That sucks, having stripped it but if you use This then you can mount it horizontally, vertically and can hang it from the top of the case even. That piece gives you freedom to move away from the wall of your case, and that is what i love about it, it is large enough and made very sturdy so you can do just about any config you want with it.
> Each one of the stands that monsoon has, has its own purpose and place to use it. It allows the builder to decide how he wants to mount it and not how the case makes you mount it, and that is why i chose Monsoon's MMRS. My entire build is modular, except my radiators which hopefully one day i will have enough cash to grab those from Aquacomputer "sorry for dropping another company in here".
> I just like that manufactures are now starting to give use the options to change what we want and not be constrained by only one or two options.


I have that cap - its not fitted yet .... I think the vertical stand is strong enough its the "plastic parts" they mate with which is the weak point so double support is insurance as well as structural support , I tried using the vertical stand in the horizontal mode I would prefer to mount them horizontal but I don't have the space / bulkhead to fix them too ? but you got me having a rethink









Don't get me wrong I like these reservoirs and especially the pumps and fittings , it just that one leaning grrrr!!!


----------



## havoc315

One thing you could do is flip your resivoir upside down and mount it like that with the cap i linked to in above msg, instead of using the vertical mount.
I was using these, and now for mine i will be using the fill port pass through to mount my res, and i have not decided if i want to use the grasshopper stand that comes with the stand alone pump cover or to use the vertical mount. I will be able to figure out more later when i finish the motherboard tray and get it installed and get my waterblocks and all that inside to get a better look at it to see what looks best.
Mine is still a work in progress i just recently gathered all the rest of the parts for this build because i got half way through the last and realized i wanted more space lol.
That is when the Tower 900 build started, now all i'm waiting on is a shipment today and i can really dig into it.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *havoc315*
> 
> One thing you could do is flip your resivoir upside down and mount it like that with the cap i linked to in above msg, instead of using the vertical mount.
> I was using these, and now for mine i will be using the fill port pass through to mount my res, and i have not decided if i want to use the grasshopper stand that comes with the stand alone pump cover or to use the vertical mount. I will be able to figure out more later when i finish the motherboard tray and get it installed and get my waterblocks and all that inside to get a better look at it to see what looks best.
> Mine is still a work in progress i just recently gathered all the rest of the parts for this build because i got half way through the last and realized i wanted more space lol.
> That is when the Tower 900 build started, now all i'm waiting on is a shipment today and i can really dig into it.


that's some case the tower 900 , I thought the x9 was big .....

I think I will stay with the vertical however I haven't started the plumbing yet , so never say never its changed before







and probably change again before its all up and running and lit up ...


----------



## havoc315

You might want to check all the bars and make sure that everything is tight, sometimes those things can be a btch.
If you wanted to mount it horizontal you could always replace that piece in the back that is really thick plastic with a sheet of aluminium instead and rivet it to the panel or screw it what ever floats your boat, but then you would have the strength to attach them to and not have to worry.
One other thing i noticed you using a Dremel a lot as do i especially in doing small cut outs and really a lot of stuff. I really used these a lot along with the reinforces cutting wheel.


----------



## havoc315

The plumbing was why i originally had to stop and that was also the time i decided to go ahead and change cases, i had ordered the lock collars from a vendor and they still had the old version of them which were acrylic and were prone to cracking so i opted to not test that theory and gene sent us some new ones along with some extra uv glue to fix the error of one of there vendors, which was awesome.
This is as far as i got on last one tho.



And this was the first one that it all started with, as I am on my 3rd case for this one build, it just keeps changing lol. This one I completed but I decided to go with a custom loop.

I put a red strap on the tube because it was rubbing against the gpu and didn't want it to cut through it lol.
I left it up like that for maybe 2 weeks before tearing it down.


----------



## MuxLee

one of the reasons I will keep them vertical is because I have almost two 50 ml reservoirs( left overs from experiments ! and I have painted them so I cant send them back I am trying to squeeze in them in there see how it goes might be more effort than its worth

^^^

Looks good , dual loop right ?


----------



## havoc315

You could always make a mini bubble tank hanging from the top using that piece i linked earlier and all you would need is the top and bottom then. There is plenty i could imagine to do with two extra 50s in your case from the pictures, just need to get the creative juices flowing









My system has grown since that picture too, now i've added two 1080ti's and another flow meter, got rid of that one because it was too loud. Then im going to decouple the res and pump this time, to fill up more space. Also contemplating doing like you did and adding in a middle port section, but idk i have not decided yet it will depend how i mount them.


----------



## MuxLee

Bubble Tank ? enlighten me


----------



## havoc315

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> Bubble Tank ? enlighten me


Its just basically another reservoir except its small and its at the top of your system in order to keep the bubbles out of your primary reservoirs plus they can be used to fill your loop easier because they are attached to the top of the case, but its really just an aesthetic thing mostly it doesn't really serve a functional purpose because that's really what your reservoirs are in the first place. Just the 50s would be a smaller version of them, and if you think about it they can be anywhere above your system if you hang them from the top.


----------



## MuxLee

I get it... but my rads are in the top , so I have the front bulkhead and under the MB opposite the PSU to play with, they will be in there one way or another , got to get my aquero set up first before I finalise the plumbing so I will have time to think this over and come up with a plan ....


----------



## BoxGods

The reservoir itself is easily strong enough to use an FDP to mount it horizontally--but you dio need to be sure the surface you are mounting it to can support that levered load. The cap spreads the forces out over a 50mm -- 60mm area which helps.

On using tube to help as a support. I would say generally no but again there are a few exceptions. The first and most important being PETG, metal, or carbon fiber tube--not acrylic. If you're using the tube as a hanging support--as in tube enters the reservoir from above--then a hard lock type fitting is needed for obvious reasons. From the side or below a regular fitting should be fine.


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The reservoir itself is easily strong enough to use an FDP to mount it horizontally--but you dio need to be sure the surface you are mounting it to can support that levered load. The cap spreads the forces out over a 50mm -- 60mm area which helps.
> 
> On using tube to help as a support. I would say generally no but again there are a few exceptions. The first and most important being PETG, metal, or carbon fiber tube--not acrylic. If you're using the tube as a hanging support--as in tube enters the reservoir from above--then a hard lock type fitting is needed for obvious reasons. From the side or below a regular fitting should be fine.


these are thermaltake cases , the panels are not very strong on the X9 , and there;s only 1 solid panel stock , and I have cut the rest , mounting it on Perspex 8/6 mm ( that's what I got ) what screws would I need ? if I could that it could be a solution ,


----------



## kevindd992002

Is the MMRS arguably the best reservoir one can use?


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> They are but not all re-sellers stock them.


Is there a good resource out there to see all your currently offered products? I've spent the last couple of months planning and building and JUST found out about radiator mounts. Leaves me wondering what other stuff you have that I don't know about. Once this build is finished, lets be honest though is any build ever really finished, I want to move on to planning my next build. Would be nice to know what I have to choose from!


----------



## Ceadderman

Performance-PCs.com is a good a place as any. Just search for Monsoon and weed out items you're not looking for.









~Ceadder


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Performance-PCs.com is a good a place as any. Just search for Monsoon and weed out items you're not looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


I have done this before, but that website leaves a lot to be desired. And I don't think they stock everything Monsoon has to offer.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is the MMRS arguably the best reservoir one can use?


That is subjective. It's going to be based on what type of res your looking for. MMRS does have a few QA issues.

Personally I would say no (I prefer POM material since it's allot higher quality then nylon) & I prefer glass tube over acrylic tube.

Take a look at my two builds in my signature. One uses MonSoon & other uses the other res (Which has a glass tube).

Is MMRS better then some of the other res on the market? Yes, Is it the best? That's up to you.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> That is subjective. It's going to be based on what type of res your looking for. MMRS does have a few QA issues.
> 
> Personally I would say no (I prefer POM material since it's allot higher quality then nylon) & I prefer glass tube over acrylic tube.
> 
> Take a look at my two builds in my signature. One uses MonSoon & other uses the other res (Which has a glass tube).
> 
> Is MMRS better then some of the other res on the market? Yes, Is it the best? That's up to you.


Fair enough. Thanks.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Performance-PCs.com is a good a place as any. Just search for Monsoon and weed out items you're not looking for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have done this before, but that website leaves a lot to be desired. And I don't think they stock everything Monsoon has to offer.
Click to expand...

Yes, they do. I do almost all my watercooling shopping through them. If what you're looking for doesn't pop up, they ate out of stock. If they are OoS then message them and ask when they will be getting stock. If they somehow don't have it at the end of the results, showing OoS then you can also contact them and see if they will order what you need. Typically they will tell you that they have to contact their supplier and if they can get it they will do so.









~Ceadder


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Yes, they do. I do almost all my watercooling shopping through them. If what you're looking for doesn't pop up, they ate out of stock. If they are OoS then message them and ask when they will be getting stock. If they somehow don't have it at the end of the results, showing OoS then you can also contact them and see if they will order what you need. Typically they will tell you that they have to contact their supplier and if they can get it they will do so.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


If they do carry all of the Monsoon product line, which I guess is plausible given they have almost 900 SKUs on the site, I will go back to my other statement that the site just sucks for browsing.

I used the advanced search to look for the 12mm mounts another user was asking about a few days ago that BoxGods confirmed they sell, but not all re-sellers stock them. After several searches turned up nothing, I'm inclined to think they don't have them. This leaves me wanting a better resource to research their products.

So while it may be possible Performance does carry everything, they don't have the best site for researching the product line. Hell, if @BoxGods just gave us something like a link to a Google Sheets doc with the product line that would make me happy. I would even take a flat text file and load into a database so I could search it. That's just me though.


----------



## ArcaneScroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> Is there a good resource out there to see all your currently offered products? I've spent the last couple of months planning and building and JUST found out about radiator mounts. Leaves me wondering what other stuff you have that I don't know about. Once this build is finished, lets be honest though is any build ever really finished, I want to move on to planning my next build. Would be nice to know what I have to choose from!


This would be great since no reseller carries everything.


----------



## b0oMeR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcaneScroll*
> 
> This would be great since no reseller carries everything.


What about the GPU anti-droop bar?
I have that problem sometimes.


----------



## thetherington

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is the MMRS arguably the best reservoir one can use?


Yes, it's one of the best. It covers every aspect when choosing a reservoir. There's only a few other companies that are on par to reservoir features like monsoon.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0oMeR*
> 
> What about the GPU anti-droop bar?
> I have that problem sometimes.


Do you mean a GPU Support Bracket? Not sure they would sell enough to warrant investing in R&D and mass production.They would have to make four different versions, without even considering different colors.

Mnptech makes one already which is cnc machined drilled with high quality 6061 aluminum. Not sure if MonSoon could go up against that.

They make one for reference, non-reference, SLI/Crossfire & Waterblock. It comes in two colors black & Silver.

Link: https://mnpctech.com/gpu-support-bracket/gpu-water-block-supports/


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Do you mean a GPU Support Bracket? Not sure they would sell enough to warrant investing in R&D and mass production.They would have to make four different versions, without even considering different colors.
> 
> Mnptech makes one already which is cnc machined drilled with high quality 6061 aluminum. Not sure if MonSoon could go up against that.
> 
> They make one for reference, non-reference, SLI/Crossfire & Waterblock. It comes in two colors black & Silver.
> 
> Link: https://mnpctech.com/gpu-support-bracket/gpu-water-block-supports/


Of course we could =)

That said, just because you can do something doesn't mean you should. The guys at Mnptech are great people and spend a lot of time trying to be innovative and I have a lot of respect for them.


----------



## sanick

*slow nod


----------



## BoxGods

Man I wish I could take pictures like that. Looks awesome.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanick*
> 
> *slow nod


Black chrome is where it's at. Nice!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Man I wish I could take pictures like that. Looks awesome.


You can. Just get a cheap SLR!


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Black chrome is where it's at. Nice!!
> You can. Just get a cheap SLR!


Haha, thanks. I actually sold my 6D to help fund this build, all these photos were taken on my Samsung s6 phone.


----------



## BoxGods

I have decent equipment...just my brain does not work that way. Meaning I tend to think like an engineer not an artist.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanick*
> 
> *slow nod


Dang that's a great pic for having been taken with a potato phone.









What settings do you fiddle with? I wonder if I can do this level of work with my S4. Doubtful but input would be appreciated.









~Ceadder


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dang that's a great pic for having been taken with a potato phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What settings do you fiddle with? I wonder if I can do this level of work with my S4. Doubtful but input would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


Haha nah man not with a S4.

Looking at it more it's definitely not SLR quality but still great!


----------



## Ceadderman

Well worth the inquiry though, since that pic was captured with an S6.









~Ceadder


----------



## MuxLee

*O rings* ,for the reservoirs, What size are they and where can I get them in the UK , I have lost two somewhere


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MuxLee*
> 
> *O rings* ,for the reservoirs, What size are they and where can I get them in the UK , I have lost two somewhere


Assuming you mean the ones that fit on the end of the tubes, they are 60mm OD and 3mm thick. Material is not too important, (unless you plan to run some exotic fluid) so w/e you can find should be fine.


----------



## Duality92

Testing the VPP755 with the Monsoon MMRS a good part of Saturday and I have no leaks, no grinding, nothing, everything seems to work as intended









I have the v1 of the pump!


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Assuming you mean the ones that fit on the end of the tubes, they are 60mm OD and 3mm thick. Material is not too important, (unless you plan to run some exotic fluid) so w/e you can find should be fine.


Merci !!!

Panic over I found them , black O rings in a black plastic tool tray

I searched that tray at least 33 times !!!!

anyway its good info should it happen again

Mux


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Testing the VPP755 with the Monsoon MMRS a good part of Saturday and I have no leaks, no grinding, nothing, everything seems to work as intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have the v1 of the pump!


It may work for now, but it seems the pump may have a design flaw as more and more people are reporting issues with the pump HERE and the only responses from Alphacool are blaming the user and apparently they won't honor their warranty if you use ANY mayhems fluid. Not a big fan of alphacool right now.


----------



## sanick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dang that's a great pic for having been taken with a potato phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What settings do you fiddle with? I wonder if I can do this level of work with my S4. Doubtful but input would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


When you touch the screen to select the focus area there's a light bulb slider that pops up, it usually needs pulling down a bit because the auto-exposure is set too high in lighting conditions like this. Then it's just normal brightness/contrast kinda stuff in photoshop or whatever.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sanick*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Dang that's a great pic for having been taken with a potato phone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What settings do you fiddle with? I wonder if I can do this level of work with my S4. Doubtful but input would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When you touch the screen to select the focus area there's a light bulb slider that pops up, it usually needs pulling down a bit because the auto-exposure is set too high in lighting conditions like this. Then it's just normal brightness/contrast kinda stuff in photoshop or whatever.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks.









~Ceadder


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It may work for now, but it seems the pump may have a design flaw as more and more people are reporting issues with the pump HERE and the only responses from Alphacool are blaming the user and apparently they won't honor their warranty if you use ANY mayhems fluid. Not a big fan of alphacool right now.


You all have the V2 of the pump most likely, I got mine pre-launch, so in the initial batches of the v1, let's see how long it lasts, I'll be running mine horizontally instead of vertically like these seem to be.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It may work for now, but it seems the pump may have a design flaw as more and more people are reporting issues with the pump HERE and the only responses from Alphacool are blaming the user and apparently they won't honor their warranty if you use ANY mayhems fluid. Not a big fan of alphacool right now.
> 
> 
> 
> You all have the V2 of the pump most likely, I got mine pre-launch, so in the initial batches of the v1, let's see how long it lasts, I'll be running mine horizontally instead of vertically like these seem to be.
Click to expand...

So note to self, don't use VPP755?

Sounds like alphacool needs to consult with EK on how to handle manufacturing defect RMA issues...


----------



## Inelastic

Got my new fittings in. Now I just have to finalize what color of tubing I'll be using (white or black).


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It may work for now, but it seems the pump may have a design flaw as more and more people are reporting issues with the pump HERE and the only responses from Alphacool are blaming the user and apparently they won't honor their warranty if you use ANY mayhems fluid. Not a big fan of alphacool right now.


A slightly related comment--for what it is worth. In the five years or so that I have been selling Monsoon products exactly one manufacturer has reach out to us for compatibility testing between our products and theirs. Mayhems. From my personal experience they do fairly extensive testing to make sure their products work well with other companies offerings.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> So note to self, don't use VPP755?
> 
> Sounds like alphacool needs to consult with EK on how to handle manufacturing defect RMA issues...


People are a lot more understanding (and forgiving) of issues when you just wade in openly and do your best to get them resolved. No matter how hard you try to make sure everything is perfect sometimes things just happen. I think most people understand that. We went through it with the original acrylic lock collars. It was expensive to make the switch and I have likely answered 500 emails to reassure people it was resolved, but I truly believe we came out the other end of that ordeal a stronger company and we all certainly keep that experience in mind when we work on new products.


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> People are a lot more understanding (and forgiving) of issues when you just wade in openly and do your best to get them resolved. No matter how hard you try to make sure everything is perfect sometimes things just happen. I think most people understand that. We went through it with the original acrylic lock collars. It was expensive to make the switch and I have likely answered 500 emails to reassure people it was resolved, but I truly believe we came out the other end of that ordeal a stronger company and we all certainly keep that experience in mind when we work on new products.


That's how I feel a company that values their customers should act. This is not how Alphacool is acting with this VPP755 ordeal. After all the info, I won't be using it in the Monsoon MMRS for my RGB build.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Got my new fittings in. Now I just have to finalize what color of tubing I'll be using (white or black).


When I first saw your artwork for these I was a little skeptical but they really did come out looking pretty cool. My guys in China often seem to know what the artwork we get is from...and I never have any idea.

This is kind of funny. earlier this week my partner Bruce was working from home and we were discussing a part and he grabbed a shot of his screen with his cell phone.



I knew right away why he was working from home. In the background is a Houston Rockets vs San Antonio Spurs game. He is a HUGE basketball fan. Keep in mind he is in mainland China. I am IN Texas and was not even watching it


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> When I first saw your artwork for these I was a little skeptical but they really did come out looking pretty cool. My guys in China often seem to know what the artwork we get is from...and I never have any idea.


This is an original drawing from a friend of mine. I'm a PhD student in physics and my work involves using a particle called a muon that's used to probe materials. The moment I told her the name, muon, she started frantically giggling and came to me a few days later with this drawing.

Once I got it mocked up, I printed it out to see what it would look like and I did like the look. I was unsure of how well it would translate to the etching, if the eyes and ears detail would come out right. I sat there and stared at other examples for a long time to see how well detail of that size would come out. They did come out quite looking great.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> This is an original drawing from a friend of mine. I'm a PhD student in physics and my work involves using a particle called a muon that's used to probe materials. The moment I told her the name, muon, she started frantically giggling and came to me a few days later with this drawing.
> 
> Once I got it mocked up, I printed it out to see what it would look like and I did like the look. I was unsure of how well it would translate to the etching, if the eyes and ears detail would come out right. I sat there and stared at other examples for a long time to see how well detail of that size would come out. They did come out quite looking great.


Great. Now I will have to figure out how to work muon into a name for our next cat









I like to give our cats clever (to me anyway) little names like that that have a story behind them. We have one who as a kitten had an unfortunate altercation with a dog that cost him his tail. I named him Sans Serif. I call him Aqua man now because a few years back he thought it would be hilarious to open the lever style tap in our guest bathroom at 2 AM. When I woke up at about 6AM there was 4 inches of standing water in the entire house and he was running around in the water having a ball. Took us the entire day to get all the water out and ruined the baseboards of course.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Great. Now I will have to figure out how to work muon into a name for our next cat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like to give our cats clever (to me anyway) little names like that that have a story behind them. We have one who as a kitten had an unfortunate altercation with a dog that cost him his tail. I named him Sans Serif. I call him Aqua man now because a few years back he thought it would be hilarious to open the lever style tap in our guest bathroom at 2 AM. When I woke up at about 6AM there was 4 inches of standing water in the entire house and he was running around in the water having a ball. Took us the entire day to get all the water out and ruined the baseboards of course.


Oh man, that's both horrifying and funny at the same time. Luckily my cat has never done anything like that. I named him Sinclair because he's Siamese and I thought he needed a pretentious sounding name.


----------



## BoxGods

We had one wander up with a piece of two inch wide tape stuck to her back that had a piece of paper under it with big block letters that read "KITCHEN". It had likely come off of a moving box--like how people label boxes for different rooms when they move so they know where to unpack them in the new house. It was kind of ratty like it had been stuck on her for a long time and we had a tough time getting it off of her.

We went door to door 5 or 6 streets in every direction trying to find her people--no luck. My wife nixed calling her Kitchen so we settled on Sticky.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Got my new fittings in. Now I just have to finalize what color of tubing I'll be using (white or black).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I first saw your artwork for these I was a little skeptical but they really did come out looking pretty cool. My guys in China often seem to know what the artwork we get is from...and I never have any idea.
> 
> This is kind of funny. earlier this week my partner Bruce was working from home and we were discussing a part and he grabbed a shot of his screen with his cell phone.
> 
> 
> 
> I knew right away why he was working from home. In the background is a Houston Rockets vs San Antonio Spurs game. He is a HUGE basketball fan. Keep in mind he is in mainland China. I am IN Texas and was not even watching it
Click to expand...

lol, I think the Warriors are gonna have their work cut out for them. But I am liking the matchup as I am Laker fan. It just makes our division that much better having the Warriors being so much more competitive. Only wish I could actually watch games right now. We don't have TV just DVD movies and the Dell desktop only games and surfs the Web when it's at my brother's place. I just(Tuesday night) delidded the chip in it for no other reason than because I could. So later today I get to hook it up to my 32" TV to check my handiwork.









I am in the market for anot her D5, so I will avoid Alphacool and stick with an EK D5 Vario. Excellent pump inho.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Bruce and his wife visited and we all went to San Francisco. He got to see a Warriors game. He was so excited I thought he was going to explode. I have never been that excited about anything...ever lol.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Bruce and his wife visited and we all went to San Francisco. He got to see a Warriors game. He was so excited I thought he was going to explode. I have never been that excited about anything...ever lol.


Lol, I am an rabid Giants and 9ers fan. Just like the Lakers due to a Warriors Center that they traded to L.A. when I was a tot. I went to a few Ws' games when I was a kid. Cheap seat section and all of them were Lakers during the 80s. I was a wee blessed lad back then. I was always excited to catch a game. Same for the 9ers.

True story. I have never caught a regular season 9er game. Ever. But I did get to catch a game at Stanford. Montana vs Marino. I was a boy scout that year and we got to be Ushers at the game. It was a truly awesome experience.

Missed the Championships for the Giants as I live out in the NW. But I did catch all the games via the Net. I was soooooo jazzed. My Gramps started me on them when I was a kid and my uncle took me to see them play the Cards. Lou Brock stole 2nd on us when he became the stolen base king. Giants lost 2-1. A couple years later Ricky Henderson wrested the title from him. Wasn't a huge A's fan (NL rules!) but it was great fun to see.

Sounds like Bruce has his priorities straight.







lol

~Ceadder


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> So note to self, don't use VPP755?
> 
> Sounds like alphacool needs to consult with EK on how to handle manufacturing defect RMA issues...
> 
> 
> 
> People are a lot more understanding (and forgiving) of issues when you just wade in openly and do your best to get them resolved. No matter how hard you try to make sure everything is perfect sometimes things just happen. I think most people understand that. We went through it with the original acrylic lock collars. It was expensive to make the switch and I have likely answered 500 emails to reassure people it was resolved, but I truly believe we came out the other end of that ordeal a stronger company and we all certainly keep that experience in mind when we work on new products.
Click to expand...

Exactly! And the very reason why MMRS is still my #1 go to res in my custom loop builds!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> So note to self, don't use VPP755?
> 
> Sounds like alphacool needs to consult with EK on how to handle manufacturing defect RMA issues...


Yes, WaterCool & Aqua-Computer are the companies I would use when buying a pump.

EK is in entirely different league then AlphaCool when it comes to support & RMA. It usually takes days for AlphaCool to reply to any E-mail. I still do like AlphaCool products (atlease there tubing). I find it easier if you bought the item from ModMyMods/PPCS just to contact ModMyMods/PPCS. They can usually help better then AlphaCool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> It may work for now, but it seems the pump may have a design flaw as more and more people are reporting issues with the pump HERE and the only responses from Alphacool are blaming the user and apparently they won't honor their warranty if you use ANY mayhems fluid. Not a big fan of alphacool right now.


That's been AlphaCool stand for a very long time(They always had an odd attitude toward Mayhem, Even a few years ago they told me not to use Mayhem products with there products). AlphaCool Support has never been the best. I sometimes wonder if they just use mayhem as an excuse so they don't have to honor there warranty's. AlphaCool has never admitted fault even when there proof. Like the whole issue with there 12mm bending insert not fitting correctly in there tubing.


----------



## ArcaneScroll

Is the "Stand-alone D5 Pump Top" available separately? I have all the other parts to make my pump stand alone, but I need the top. Turns out I mis-measured my video card so I need to relocate the pump off the reservoir to get it to fit.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArcaneScroll*
> 
> Is the "Stand-alone D5 Pump Top" available separately? I have all the other parts to make my pump stand alone, but I need the top. Turns out I mis-measured my video card so I need to relocate the pump off the reservoir to get it to fit.


Nope. Sorry =(


----------



## ArcaneScroll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Nope. Sorry =(


No problem, thanks.


----------



## havoc315

Ok so I got my pumps mounted, I decided to go at a 45° instead of having it horizontally but now I can't decide placement of the pump. I was thinking of three different options, One is mount it in the back, two is mount it under and behind the resivoir, three and my favorite but put it on top of the center piece and use the aqua tube to pull from the top of the res. If I do this I would turn the case on it's back so it would run to the pump then use the bottom to fill it
Can do that without too many problems and what's you guys opinion on layout of the pumps and anything else.
I'm far from done I still have to redo the whole bottom, side and motherboard tray.


----------



## BoxGods

I love the angled mounting...not something you see every day. First image with the twin pumps looks bad a$$


----------



## TOOLP

I would recomend to hide a small res at the top because these pumps can't pull they just push the water. But the first pic looks verry nice.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> I would recomend to hide a small res at the top because these pumps can't pull they just push the water. But the first pic looks verry nice.


100% false since water is not compressible the pump WILL suck water from a res even if it's below the pump so long as there is not any air in the line and the pump is primed. But if you get an air bubble on the inlet side of the pump it will stop working. There is a video about this in another thread in watercooling showing it working if you care to argue. The pump over res is to eliminate user issues with air in the line but if pump is primed it will work so long as there is no air on the outlet of the RES to inlet of pump


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> 100% false since water is not compressible the pump WILL suck water from a res even if it's below the pump so long as there is not any air in the line and the pump is primed. But if you get an air bubble on the inlet side of the pump it will stop working. There is a video about this in another thread in watercooling showing it working if you care to argue. The pump over res is to eliminate user issues with air in the line but if pump is primed it will work so long as there is no air on the outlet of the RES to inlet of pump


I think he was speaking more as a "best practice" or in broad terms rather as an absolute. Sort of like saying water isn't compressible as an absolute term when actually it can be compressed very slightly with enough pressure


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I think he was speaking more as a "best practice" or in broad terms rather as an absolute. Sort of like saying water isn't compressible as an absolute term when actually it can be compressed very slightly with enough pressure


Yes In Extreme conditions water can be compressed but that requires equipment way beyond what 99.9% of people will ever see let alone use for any measurable amount. However it would be much easier for me to build and fill a loop with the pump over the Res or even with the pump upside down over the Res. Just wanted to differentiate or point it out at the least as "can be done"


----------



## TOOLP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChiTownButcher*
> 
> 100% false since water is not compressible the pump WILL suck water from a res even if it's below the pump so long as there is not any air in the line and the pump is primed. But if you get an air bubble on the inlet side of the pump it will stop working. There is a video about this in another thread in watercooling showing it working if you care to argue. The pump over res is to eliminate user issues with air in the line but if pump is primed it will work so long as there is no air on the outlet of the RES to inlet of pump


Yes you are right if there is no air in the loop it would work. But I think it is very difficult to get all air out. I tried to fill a res completely without a loop connected and still got some air bubbles.


----------



## havoc315

If you are using a qua tube that goes down 3.5 inches then you shouldn't need to worry about air except when there are those tiny little bubbles, but the way they will be positioned I don't see a way for air to get trapped inside the pump.


----------



## Inelastic

Updated the lighting for my reservoir to its final state. Used some high density 144/m leds instead of 30/m so now the lighting is much smoother than before.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Updated the lighting for my reservoir to its final state. Used some high density 144/m leds instead of 30/m so now the lighting is much smoother than before.


Man that is NICE


----------



## Lionheart1980

I agree


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Almost done, figured I would throw a few pics up. Leak tested and no leaks on my first try! Those EV2 fittings are awesome. Just wish that tool they come with was a little stronger. Had to bend the tangs back a few times after tightening the collars. The entire loop is Monsoon except for the pump, radiator, and blocks of course. Right now it's just filled with water. When I'm done with wiring and what not it's getting Mayhems UV blue. I really wish there was a Monsoon ball valve available. Looking to add a drain at the bottom of the rad before I refill.

I know some of those bends aren't perfect, but I'll take it for my first time doing this.


Unplanned bend here. The power wire for the UV CCFL was directly in the path of the pipe. Kinda like the bend actually.


Added the fill/drain port, just because it looks cool on top of the reservoir.


Probably could have made that run with a 90, but that wouldn't be as fun.


Decided on mounting the pump separate from the reservoir. Ended up being a tight fit with the 300mm res.


I'm still not sure how I feel about that pump to rad pipe. Sometimes I like it and sometimes I don't.


All lit up in the night. Still may tweak the light port placements.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> Almost done, figured I would throw a few pics up. Leak tested and no leaks on my first try! Those EV2 fittings are awesome. Just wish that tool they come with was a little stronger. Had to bend the tangs back a few times after tightening the collars. The entire loop is Monsoon except for the pump, radiator, and blocks of course. Right now it's just filled with water. When I'm done with wiring and what not it's getting Mayhems UV blue. I really wish there was a Monsoon ball valve available. Looking to add a drain at the bottom of the rad before I refill.
> 
> I know some of those bends aren't perfect, but I'll take it for my first time doing this.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unplanned bend here. The power wire for the UV CCFL was directly in the patch of the pipe. Kinda like the bend actually.
> 
> 
> Added the fill/drain port, just because it looks cool on top of the reservoir.
> 
> 
> Probably could have made that run with a 90, but that wouldn't be as fun.
> 
> 
> Decided on mounting the pump separate from the reservoir. Ended up being a tight fit with the 300mm res.
> 
> 
> I'm still not sure how I feel about that pump to rad pipe. Sometimes I like it and sometimes I don't.
> 
> 
> All lit up in the night. Still may tweak the light port placements.


Looks good







I really do like the look of those cases, but know I'm way too lazy to keep it clean lol. I know what you mean about the pipe bending. I'm like 99% done with my first rigid tubing build as well and my runs aren't perfect either. But, there comes a point where you just have to say it's good enough and move on.


----------



## TOOLP

Very nice build with many complex bends. I don't like the case but i do like your loop.


----------



## Ceadderman

Nice build, what length is that Reservoir?









BP and EK make reasonable s/o ball valves that while not Monsoon, work well with the Monsoon look. EKs would probably be my recommendation as those are straight from one end to the other.










~Ceadder


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really do like the look of those cases, but know I'm way too lazy to keep it clean lol. I know what you mean about the pipe bending. I'm like 99% done with my first rigid tubing build as well and my runs aren't perfect either. But, there comes a point where you just have to say it's good enough and move on.


So many pieces of scrap were made while building this loop. I ordered two boxes of tube and have two pieces left over. I'm crossing my fingers this will be enough for my next much smaller build. Also, really like what you are doing with your LED strips and Arduino. May give that a shot on my next build as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> Very nice build with many complex bends. I don't like the case but i do like your loop.


Thanks for the compliments on the bends, at times I felt like I tackled to big a job for a beginner. Gene's YouTube videos and bending kit were a big help. Although several of those bends ended up being all by hand. I have mixed feelings on the case. This build is for my son, who absolutely loves this case. I have two main complaints on this case. One is you really don't have much choice on component placement without some serious modding. Second, I feel like the metal should be thicker on this case. The tray that holds the video card actually sags because the metal on the main body warps ever so slightly once you get a card mounted to it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice build, what length is that Reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BP and EK make reasonable s/o ball valves that while not Monsoon, work well with the Monsoon look. EKs would probably be my recommendation as those are straight from one end to the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder


That is a 300mm reservoir. I actually have the EK valve in my cart over on PPCS. Not a fan of having to use a male/male adapter between the valve and the 90 rotary fitting, but it's probably the best solution.


----------



## Mega Man

My problem with the case is the thermal fake brand....


----------



## garyd9

@doubleabeepbeep

It looks like you have a monsoon light plug in the top of the res? If so, do you find that the base of the plug (under the heat shrink at the plug, where the resistor is) gets VERY, VERY hot after a few minutes of being on? I tried using one of those plugs, and with either LED, the mentioned part got hot enough to actually cause me pain. I immediately removed it from my installation, due to melting or fire concerns.

Thanks
Gary


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> My problem with the case is the thermal fake brand....


I hear this complaint a lot about Thermaltake. I don't follow the business enough to see the outright copying of ideas everyone blames them for, but I wouldn't doubt it. I do have the opinion that they cut corners in manufacturing to save a buck and it shows in the quality of their products. Don't even get me started on the PCI-E riser cable that came with this case. Let's just say this is very likely the last Thermaltake product I'll purchase.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> @doubleabeepbeep
> 
> It looks like you have a monsoon light plug in the top of the res? If so, do you find that the base of the plug (under the heat shrink at the plug, where the resistor is) gets VERY, VERY hot after a few minutes of being on? I tried using one of those plugs, and with either LED, the mentioned part got hot enough to actually cause me pain. I immediately removed it from my installation, due to melting or fire concerns.
> 
> Thanks
> Gary


That is actually a CCFL bulb . I felt it would give a much better 'reactor core' glow than a single led shining down in the res. You can check it out over at PPCS here: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-modular-reservoir-system-parts/monsoon-mmrs-ccfl-plug-for-300mm-tube-uv-black.html

I do have three of the led light plugs in use though. They are at the inlet and outlet of the radiator and one at the inlet of the pump. I just turned them on for about half an hour and they are not hot at all. I am using the narrow beam version of the leds. Just plugged in one of the wide beam leds because you got me curious. It is not getting very warm either.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> @doubleabeepbeep
> 
> It looks like you have a monsoon light plug in the top of the res? If so, do you find that the base of the plug (under the heat shrink at the plug, where the resistor is) gets VERY, VERY hot after a few minutes of being on? I tried using one of those plugs, and with either LED, the mentioned part got hot enough to actually cause me pain. I immediately removed it from my installation, due to melting or fire concerns.
> 
> Thanks
> Gary


Are you feeding it too much power?


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> Looks good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really do like the look of those cases, but know I'm way too lazy to keep it clean lol. I know what you mean about the pipe bending. I'm like 99% done with my first rigid tubing build as well and my runs aren't perfect either. But, there comes a point where you just have to say it's good enough and move on.
> 
> 
> 
> So many pieces of scrap were made while building this loop. I ordered two boxes of tube and have two pieces left over. I'm crossing my fingers this will be enough for my next much smaller build. Also, really like what you are doing with your LED strips and Arduino. May give that a shot on my next build as well.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> Very nice build with many complex bends. I don't like the case but i do like your loop.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the compliments on the bends, at times I felt like I tackled to big a job for a beginner. Gene's YouTube videos and bending kit were a big help. Although several of those bends ended up being all by hand. I have mixed feelings on the case. This build is for my son, who absolutely loves this case. I have two main complaints on this case. One is you really don't have much choice on component placement without some serious modding. Second, I feel like the metal should be thicker on this case. The tray that holds the video card actually sags because the metal on the main body warps ever so slightly once you get a card mounted to it.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ceadderman*
> 
> Nice build, what length is that Reservoir?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BP and EK make reasonable s/o ball valves that while not Monsoon, work well with the Monsoon look. EKs would probably be my recommendation as those are straight from one end to the other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~Ceadder
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is a 300mm reservoir. I actually have the EK valve in my cart over on PPCS. *Not a fan of having to use a male/male adapter between the valve and the 90 rotary fitting*, but it's probably the best solution.
Click to expand...

If that's enough of a distraction, then go with a BP with male/female thread setup. They have them at PPCs too. They look nice, but they do have the BP logo etched in them, like all their other fittings. But having a BP female/female unit I can honestly describe them as first rate. Just make sure to give them a bath in distilled water before manipulating them, so that the handle doesn't break off due to excessive force applied to a dry fitting. The distilled water will act as a lubricant on the ball valve of the fitting.









~Ceadder


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Are you feeding it too much power?


I wasn't given many choices on how much power to give it. They were both pre-wired to the 12v line on a molex connector.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doubleabeepbeep*
> 
> So many pieces of scrap were made while building this loop. I ordered two boxes of tube and have two pieces left over. I'm crossing my fingers this will be enough for my next much smaller build. Also, really like what you are doing with your LED strips and Arduino. May give that a shot on my next build as well.
> Thanks for the compliments on the bends, at times I felt like I tackled to big a job for a beginner. Gene's YouTube videos and bending kit were a big help. Although several of those bends ended up being all by hand. I have mixed feelings on the case. This build is for my son, who absolutely loves this case. I have two main complaints on this case. One is you really don't have much choice on component placement without some serious modding. Second, I feel like the metal should be thicker on this case. The tray that holds the video card actually sags because the metal on the main body warps ever so slightly once you get a card mounted to it.
> That is a 300mm reservoir. I actually have the EK valve in my cart over on PPCS. Not a fan of having to use a male/male adapter between the valve and the 90 rotary fitting, but it's probably the best solution.


I hear ya. I got two boxes myself (Primochill) and I used half of the first box before I realized that the silicone insert tube was too skinny and was causing my bends to warp. I still have about 2/3 left of my other box so I could go back and redo some if I want, but I'm done for now.

Thanks. I actually wanted a NZXT Hue+, but I couldn't get past the limited configuration of their led strips so I wound up going custom with it.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I wasn't given many choices on how much power to give it. They were both pre-wired to the 12v line on a molex connector.


Just checking--it is not uncommon for people to rewire them or switch plugs etc. (I daisy chain them together all the time for example). They do not normally get hot so it may be defective and you should RMA it.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> My problem with the case is the thermal fake brand....


/sigh


----------



## ruffhi

I'm thinking about adding some lights inside my reservior. Here is a pic of my res ...



Those are 50mm tubes. From my calculations, my res is 50+25+50 high (excluding the space in the end caps).

The length of the Monsoon MMRS CCFL Plug for 50mm Tube is 58mm. The 100mm plug is 108mm and the 150mm plug is 158mm. Thus I think I can assume that there is an extra 8mm that you can safely incorporate / cater for.

If I go with the 100mm plug, then the top of the plug is going to be a very obvious 30mm (or so) short of the top of the 2nd 50mm tube.

If I go with the 150mm plug, then the top of the plug will go into the top end cap by about 8 to 10mm.

Qs re the plug ...

does the whole plug need to be under water?
do I have my measurements right? While a 150mm plug fit into my reservoir?
*Edit*: If I am reading the plug measurements correctly, the 158mm is from the top of the screw part ... so if I screw it into one of the ports in my base ... I will have 29mm (bottom cap) + 2 x 50mm (tubes) + 24mm (middle) ... which is 153mm. So the plug will go 5mm into the top cap. I know there is some room in there ... but how much? Anyone?

Secondly, I want to be able to turn the lights in the res on / off. I am thinking of having two plugs (one green and one UV) and would like to be turn them on / off independently. There is an option of turning the power on / off to the inverter with one of these (Monsoon CCFL Inverter Switch Cable) but I think that turns the power on / off to the whole inverter (which can drive two plugs). Am I right in thinking that I need to insert a rocker switch into the power cable from the inverter to the plug?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> My problem with the case is the thermal fake brand....
> 
> 
> 
> /sigh
Click to expand...

You can sigh all you want, it's stuff like they pull that hurts us, a lack of innovation, and theft. And then people reward that. Well I don't, and I bring as much light to the situation as I can for people who don't know. Maybe your ok with it. But our hobby is small, and what they do hurts. Our hobby, and the innovators, that make our hobby great.


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> My problem with the case is the thermal fake brand....
> 
> 
> 
> /sigh
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can sigh all you want, it's stuff like they pull that hurts us, a lack of innovation, and theft. And then people reward that. Well I don't, and I bring as much light to the situation as I can for people who don't know. Maybe your ok with it. But our hobby is small, and what they do hurts. Our hobby, and the innovators, that make our hobby great.
Click to expand...

+Rep.









~Ceadder


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> You can sigh all you want, it's stuff like they pull that hurts us, a lack of innovation, and theft. And then people reward that. Well I don't, and I bring as much light to the situation as I can for people who don't know. Maybe your ok with it. But our hobby is small, and what they do hurts. Our hobby, and the innovators, that make our hobby great.


Especially for guys like me that keep my margins low by spreading our development costs over several years of sales. The knock off thing is just crippling for little companies.


----------



## BoxGods

The inverters have a switch option so you can power the light on/off. PPCS sells a PCI slot type switch for example.

The "graphical" look you created with the two white tension rods and plugs is really cool


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The "graphical" look you created with the two white tension rods and plugs is really cool


Thx BoxGods. The plugs are just placeholders ... but the whole black / white / black / white with a splash of color is where I am heading.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> The inverters have a switch option so you can power the light on/off.


Yeah ... saw that. However, am I right in thinking that that switch will control the power flow to the inverter? So, using a two bulb convert and I want individual control over each bulb, I will need to insert 2 switches on the wires coming _from_ the inverter to the bulbs?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> PPCS sells a PCI slot type switch for example.


I saw those two. Can't use them as I want to put the switches below the PCI slots. I'll have to cut my own holes - shock horror.

*Finally ...* will a 150mm plug fit into my reservoir? The major question here is ... is that 158mm from the outside of the bottom cap ... and ... how much space is there inside the top cap?


----------



## Mega Man

Generally, as I understand it, you either want power on or off. You generally don't want to shut off one bulb at a time as it can damage the inverter.

I don't know why, but that is how I understand it. And i very well could be wrong.


----------



## ruffhi

I'm planning on putting one UV and one Green bulb in. I don't see that I will ever run both bulbs together ... but I can certainly see situations where I want the UV one ON by itself ... or the Green on On by itself ... of both of them OFF.

If having one bulb OFF and the other ON might damage the inverter ... then can I have two inverters and use the switch cable option BoxGods mentioned to control the flow of power to the inverters (and hence the bulbs)?


----------



## garyd9

monsoon has a neat tube thing thats designed to be used with a CC inside of reservoirs. (I'm not sure what it's called.)

Can that be used with non-Monsoon reservoirs that have a G1/4 port on the top? What is the inside diameter of the tube? Is the tube clear or frosted? I'm wondering if I could shove an LED strip in the tube instead of a cold cathode...

Thanks
Gary


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm thinking about adding some lights inside my reservior. Here is a pic of my res ...
> 
> Those are 50mm tubes. From my calculations, my res is 50+25+50 high (excluding the space in the end caps).
> 
> The length of the Monsoon MMRS CCFL Plug for 50mm Tube is 58mm. The 100mm plug is 108mm and the 150mm plug is 158mm. Thus I think I can assume that there is an extra 8mm that you can safely incorporate / cater for.
> 
> If I go with the 100mm plug, then the top of the plug is going to be a very obvious 30mm (or so) short of the top of the 2nd 50mm tube.
> 
> If I go with the 150mm plug, then the top of the plug will go into the top end cap by about 8 to 10mm.
> 
> Qs re the plug ...
> 
> does the whole plug need to be under water?
> do I have my measurements right? While a 150mm plug fit into my reservoir?
> *Edit*: If I am reading the plug measurements correctly, the 158mm is from the top of the screw part ... so if I screw it into one of the ports in my base ... I will have 29mm (bottom cap) + 2 x 50mm (tubes) + 24mm (middle) ... which is 153mm. So the plug will go 5mm into the top cap. I know there is some room in there ... but how much? Anyone?
> 
> Secondly, I want to be able to turn the lights in the res on / off. I am thinking of having two plugs (one green and one UV) and would like to be turn them on / off independently. There is an option of turning the power on / off to the inverter with one of these (Monsoon CCFL Inverter Switch Cable) but I think that turns the power on / off to the whole inverter (which can drive two plugs). Am I right in thinking that I need to insert a rocker switch into the power cable from the inverter to the plug?


I'm using the 300mm CCFL on a 300mm res with the fill/drain port at the top. I too was concerned with length since I was adding the anti vortex trident. There is actually quite a bit of space between the bottom of the CCFL housing and the bottom of the reservoir. I'm guessing the fill/drain port puts that center fitting hole much higher than a standard reservoir cap. You may actually get away with stuffing a 150 CCFL in there. I would take something like a straw and stick it the reservoir through the fitting hole to get an accurate measurement to be sure.

As far as wiring, you would certainly have to add a switch between the inverter and CCFL if you want to use one inverter with two independently switched lights.


----------



## fast_fate




----------



## ChiTownButcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*


nice caselabs lid







+rep for creativity


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm planning on putting one UV and one Green bulb in. I don't see that I will ever run both bulbs together ... but I can certainly see situations where I want the UV one ON by itself ... or the Green on On by itself ... of both of them OFF.
> 
> If having one bulb OFF and the other ON might damage the inverter ... then can I have two inverters and use the switch cable option BoxGods mentioned to control the flow of power to the inverters (and hence the bulbs)?


Your still not using the inverter with both bulbs, you need to use the inverter to the capacity, as far as I know (ie 2 bulb with 2 bulbs, 4 bulbs with 4 bulbs) otherwise damage can occur

But again I could be wrong, just trying to help you.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> monsoon has a neat tube thing thats designed to be used with a CC inside of reservoirs. (I'm not sure what it's called.)
> 
> Can that be used with non-Monsoon reservoirs that have a G1/4 port on the top? What is the inside diameter of the tube? Is the tube clear or frosted? I'm wondering if I could shove an LED strip in the tube instead of a cold cathode...
> 
> Thanks
> Gary


It should work fine with any res port as long as there's enough length for it. The tube itself is clear and a very thin cathode goes inside. It's too small for an led strip. Be really careful when removing the cathodes, they're really thin and fragile. I broke one of my 300mm's trying to remove it from the tube.


----------



## DNMock




----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Your still not using the inverter with both bulbs, you need to use the inverter to the capacity, as far as I know (ie 2 bulb with 2 bulbs, 4 bulbs with 4 bulbs) otherwise damage can occur
> 
> But again I could be wrong, just trying to help you.


Is this right? If you have the 2-bulb version ... you have to run 2 bulbs? You can't run one? What if you only want one?


----------



## doubleabeepbeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Is this right? If you have the 2-bulb version ... you have to run 2 bulbs? You can't run one? What if you only want one?


I am guessing you can run just one. I have the two bulb converter and only have one CCFL running and I have seen no issues so far.


----------



## Mega Man

again my understandings is limited, but i am talking long term damage not short term


----------



## ruffhi

I'm waiting until BoxGods chips in.

MM ... any research stuff that I can read?


----------



## Mega Man

Not on this, this comes from experiance using ballasts irl


----------



## BoxGods

caps are usually 5mm thick measured from the surface where the fitting goes.

I would probably just run two inverters.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DNMock*


Been busy sorry. It is on my to do list tho =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I'm waiting until BoxGods chips in.
> 
> MM ... any research stuff that I can read?


To be candid...I have no idea. I have run a single bulb and two on a four bulb inverter before and don't remember any issues either. Anecdotal information at best tho.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Was out of the country for a while but I'm back and had time to try and finish up my build (finally!)

I think I learned a valuable lesson about using the Monsoon sizing card on each of your set of tubes.

I have Monsoon 1/2" x 5/8" tubes, Monsoon EV2 fittings. Got all my runs in, powered up to leak test. Immediately leaks between GPU out to CPU in at both ends. Redo the tube bend, make sure ends are perfectly flat, etc. Same thing. Redo it again. Same thing. Use a combination of straight tubes and 90 degree connectors in every arrangement imaginable. Push and pull on various sections during test to see what could be causing it. At best, there was still a leak on one end.

Exasperated, I put in a soft tube in just to rule out some kind of issue with block ports. Bone dry. Leave this up for a few days to test and every other connection is 100% dry. I know those bends and ends could not have all been flawless to the nanometer like the problematic section seems to demand and those were all on my 2nd attempt after a practice run on some UV red tubes I had accidentally ordered.

Now I should mention the first set of tubes I used, which comprise every run except the one I'm talking about, were paired with the red bag of O-rings and plastic rings. Using white, tube would not go into the fitting. So with my second set of tubes, I kept using the red.

Out of desperation, I try the white bag. This time, with a decent amount of force, the tube goes in and feels really snug. Used the white bag for both ends and put in my original single-tube shape, which was from the second batch of tubes. No leaks. Thank the *@(#ing lord.

Was it that well-known, slight variance in tube size responsible for all this? It sounds like it. @BoxGods: does that sound plausible?

Anyway, glad to have it working properly. I was starting to question my sanity and capability.


----------



## Ceadderman

Are there even ballasts in CCFL inverters? Sfaik CCFL inverters are mostly regulated through channels on the PCB, there is no gas in a CCFL which requires a ballast. I think the only real thread to shortening the lifespan of an inverter is using one or more bulbs that are higher voltage spec than the inverter itself. But members that's just my gut feeling on the matter. I've used and still own the fugly blue ones and at one point I used a dual to run a single bulb and that thing still lives while the bulb is shot. I accidentally broke it during removal just to clarify this last thought. The inverter in no way should be blamed for my hamfistedness during removal.









~Ceadder


----------



## DNMock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Been busy sorry. It is on my to do list tho =)


haha, no worries glad to hear your still kicking that can around though. Can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

My build is done and I'm really glad I went with Monsoon for the tubes, fittings and MMRS. Playing with the color combinations was a lot of fun and putting it together and seeing it part of the final product was one of the best experiences I've ever had building a rig.

The evolution:


----------



## Cyber Locc

Question, Does anyone own the black reservoir? I want to know how black is the black?

Would it be possible to Have a really bright LED end cap and be able to see the coolant inside at all? Like is it even semi transparent?


----------



## hadesfactor

Its made from black acrylic so its going to be completely opaque


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> Its made from black acrylic so its going to be completely opaque


Well not all black acrylic is completely opaque, a very common industrial use for cast acrylic is signs, and they have to be lit up from the back. There is black Acrylic that can be lit up, most of it actually can. The only place I ever got black acrylic that was completely opaque was from Cold Zero, and theres a different type of acrylic. In my experience the thinish shiny stuff (like the res) will let bright light through it. Or I should say it lights up somewhat, with light behind it. This is why in most Light box PC plates, they use White then black acrylic to stop that grey greenish lighting showing through.

Its okay though, I decided another Idea anyway, I am going to use the Red and then wrap it with limo tint and a white cathode insert, so it will look like the smoked tail lights, as I am going for a sports car esque theme anyway.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Its okay though, I decided another Idea anyway, I am going to use the Red and then wrap it with limo tint and a white cathode insert, so it will look like the smoked tail lights, as I am going for a sports car esque theme anyway.


Cool stuff. Would definitely be interested to see pics once it's done.


----------



## hadesfactor

You are right but their tube is solid black acrylic....that being said it might be thin enough to let light through that I cannot not say. The build I saw it in was a solid black and white build with black and white acrylic tube and the mmrs res...normally or I should say in my experience which is by no means absolute the black acrylic that has a mirror finish like that is usually opaque. But your idea is def a cool one.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> You are right but their tube is solid black acrylic....that being said it might be thin enough to let light through that I cannot not say. The build I saw it in was a solid black and white build with black and white acrylic tube and the mmrs res...normally or I should say in my experience which is by no means absolute the black acrylic that has a mirror finish like that is usually opaque. But your idea is def a cool one.


Ya the limo tint sounds better to me anyway







then I can have the lighting able to be on or off, and when off it will hide, when on it will show, could set up via Temps or something.

Also planning to Tint the case Window as well I think to where the hardware is hidden without the lighting. Then have a bunch of darkside LED strips (Like 4 in the small case) to light that puppy up with the brightness of the SUN!

May not work, going to experiment with it and see what happens







.


----------



## hadesfactor

That sounds cool as hell...Ive only seen a side window tinted like that before....maybe even do the tubes and use something like the alphacool aurora led's around the tubing...this is the build im working on...almost done....my EV2 fittings are etched with the Corsair gaming logo and I cut the same image out of a sheet of alum that is gonna sit on top of the light box so when the light shines through it will be like the bat single lol.....the whole build is black+white+blue....white and UV LED's/CCFL





Primed and ready to paint
I have a bit more modding etc but basically Im ready to run the tubing


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> That sounds cool as hell...Ive only seen a side window tinted like that before....maybe even do the tubes and use something like the alphacool aurora led's around the tubing...this is the build im working on...almost done....my EV2 fittings are etched with the Corsair gaming logo and I cut the same image out of a sheet of alum that is gonna sit on top of the light box so when the light shines through it will be like the bat single lol.....the whole build is black+white+blue....white and UV LED's/CCFL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Primed and ready to paint
> I have a bit more modding etc but basically Im ready to run the tubing


Thats very nice







.

For the tubing I haven't made a decision yet, but it will either be. Stainless steel polished, or Black ZMT tube, to keep "Plane" Theme, playing it by ear ATM, I have a ton of fittings for either case, but will likely need more for either case, so I am split.


----------



## hadesfactor

I would definitely go with the SS it would match perfect with the mirror tint on the res...have you seen the compression fitting from MNPC, I think they're call overkill fittings...they are pretty sleek for ss tubing....kinda wish he had a copper variant


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> I would definitely go with the SS it would match perfect with the mirror tint on the res...have you seen the compression fitting from MNPC, I think they're call overkill fittings...they are pretty sleek for ss tubing....kinda wish he had a copper variant


Ya I think im leaning to SS as well, I am a ways out from that though so plenty of time.

Those are cool, they carry the industrial look. Not a fan of there 1 oring design though, and I have 26 of the primochills laying around lol (double Oring, compression's).

My concern and I will really have to get all assembled to figure it out is I dont want overkill of Steel/Nickel coloring.

I have to decide on what block to use, May stick with my raystorm with a Mod, may go nickel block. Ram same thing, Maybe dominator, but maybe that new TG Nighthawk, seeing how the build is themed after the NightHawk, that would be fitting, plus they are like Sharp and edgy, look good for sure.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Ya I think im leaning to SS as well, I am a ways out from that though so plenty of time.
> 
> Those are cool, they carry the industrial look. Not a fan of there 1 oring design though, and I have 26 of the primochills laying around lol (double Oring, compression's).
> 
> My concern and I will really have to get all assembled to figure it out is I dont want overkill of Steel/Nickel coloring.
> 
> I have to decide on what block to use, May stick with my raystorm with a Mod, may go nickel block. Ram same thing, Maybe dominator, but maybe that new TG Nighthawk, seeing how the build is themed after the NightHawk, that would be fitting, plus they are like Sharp and edgy, look good for sure.


Yeah I went with the dom plats since I wanted the look of water cooling the ram even tho it is 100% aesthetic (especially the way I mounted the blocks)...I hate how they made it virtually impossible to remove the spreaders...was actually making mounts out of alum that attach where the light bar attaches then I got lazy and just drilled and tapped the stock light bars lol....I actually like the TG Darks or T-force Vulcans a little better than the nighthawks but thats just my type of style....they make some good sticks of ram regardless....all my blocks are EK seeing as though ive been sitting on the Asus Mono-block for a while....now my only real issue is incorporating blue in my build,,,I orig had it slated for black-white-blue and got my sleeved cables white/blue but my build turned out all black and white lol...I mean I have the UV lights and the coolant will give it more blue idk...maybe some blue spots to the cut mid plate still up in the air


----------



## Juris

Just looking for a bit of advice on my Monsoon fittings and tubing. I've been collecting parts for a while for my 1st WC build so I have the 16/10 original Monsoon fittings now converted to hardline. In your guys opinion is it worth going to the EV2's or are the original fittings as good? I was particularly worried about the possibility of the lock collars cracking and whether it was possible to separate the collars and tubing with some type of solvent at a later stage.

Is there any way to get the EV2 engraving done here in Europe or is it US only.

Also wondering if my Monsoon 16/10 acrylic tubing will fit a Bitspower Dual Multi-Link adapter as another user on one of my threads said Monsoon were using imperial not metric. I have one really tight bend to do and the BP adapter seems like the only way I can make it work. Cheers.


----------



## ruffhi

Monsoon is imperial ... but you can just use this bitspower fitting ...

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-carbon-black-90-degree-with-dual-inner-g1-4-extender.html

... and use monsoon fittings on both sides.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Monsoon is imperial ... but you can just use this bitspower fitting ...
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-carbon-black-90-degree-with-dual-inner-g1-4-extender.html
> 
> ... and use monsoon fittings on both sides.


Thanks for the advice. So just to confirm the Dual Multi adapter won't work. Overclockers.co.uk advertised the Monsoon Acrylic tubing as both 5/8 and 16mm. I'm only stressing it as the bend is extremely tight and from my measurements running a standard Monsoon compression fitting where the problem bend is will put the tubing above where I needs it to be. The BP Dual multi is 28.5mm whereas the standard BP 90 adapter + Monsoon compression = 24mm + 17mm = 41mm. Its always that one little bloody bend causing the problems isn't it


----------



## ruffhi

It won't fit. I purchased some bitspower compression 90s like that and the monsoon tubing just laughed at me.

Aren't these fittings tube to tube ... can't you just cut one of the tubes a little shorter so that they line up?

I guess I am not exactly seeing the issue.


----------



## Juris

Never good when your tubing starts laughing at you







I took a pic of the problem. I'm using a Singularity Protium res with the return inlet port at the rear. The rad outlet port is in front and tubing will be going straight left to right with the res outlet coming up straight from below close to the centre dot on the res top heading left to the rear rad inlet and the problem bend of the return res inlet on the right of the pic.

Getting that bend is going to be very tight so I thought wrongly the BP multi link would give me those precious mm's while also allowing me to use a small piece of acrylic tubing with a compression on either end between the BP ML and the res port.

I guess my only other option is to use M-F G1/4 extensions from the top res port to a 90 or even 2 90's to get the tubing to run parallel with the front tubing.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Just looking for a bit of advice on my Monsoon fittings and tubing. I've been collecting parts for a while for my 1st WC build so I have the 16/10 original Monsoon fittings now converted to hardline. In your guys opinion is it worth going to the EV2's or are the original fittings as good? I was particularly worried about the possibility of the lock collars cracking and whether it was possible to separate the collars and tubing with some type of solvent at a later stage.
> 
> Is there any way to get the EV2 engraving done here in Europe or is it US only.
> 
> Also wondering if my Monsoon 16/10 acrylic tubing will fit a Bitspower Dual Multi-Link adapter as another user on one of my threads said Monsoon were using imperial not metric. I have one really tight bend to do and the BP adapter seems like the only way I can make it work. Cheers.


I love the EV2 fitting especially since they include multiple size o-ring so you can use either standard or metric you AREN'T just stuck to imperial. The 3/8id comes with 3-sets of different sizes and the 1/2 comes with 2. They are a lot better then the 1st series of the EV's as they moved to a dual o-ring design and they are a little deeper. The only thing I would say with them is when I watched the video about selecting your size o-ring he said if the tube falls directly in between the 2 colors (there is an enclosed size guide you match the color to where the tube touches) you go to the larger size....you need to go to the lower size or I should say it is a lot more sturdy and harder to pull out by going to a lower size if it falls exactly in the middle. The custom etching is actually done by Monsoon who I think in-turn has it done directly from the manufacturer in Asia or at least that's were my package directly came from. I would maybe contact Monsoon, they are really good with answering your emails, they got back to me within 24 hrs


----------



## GraphicsWhore

I'd say go EV2 as well. I got some of the originals when I was troubleshooting a leak and the EV2s are way more solid. Also look better in my opinion.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Tough. Let me see if I have this right ... out the rad port (front left of pic) and into the res via the back right? So you need to flow to turn 90° towards the back and then throw a 180° down and back towards the front ... and into the res?

Have you thought about a snake or dumping the outlet into the top of the res?

*Edit*: I ran into a similar problem where I had only a small amount of room and needed a 90° turn. You might find this post in my build log useful.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Tough. Let me see if I have this right ... out the rad port (front left of pic) and into the res via the back right? So you need to flow to turn 90° towards the back and then throw a 180° down and back towards the front ... and into the res?
> 
> Have you thought about a snake or dumping the outlet into the top of the res?


Its actually D5> res outlet at bottom up to > Rear left rad port as inlet > front left rad port as outlet> GPU > front rad in >front rad out > cpu (EK Supremacy inverted 180) > Singularity Res port top right

I'm trying to keep as many straight tubing lines in front in the build hence I'm using the front rad port as output to the gpu.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> I love the EV2 fitting especially since they include multiple size o-ring so you can use either standard or metric you AREN'T just stuck to imperial. The 3/8id comes with 3-sets of different sizes and the 1/2 comes with 2. They are a lot better then the 1st series of the EV's as they moved to a dual o-ring design and they are a little deeper. The only thing I would say with them is when I watched the video about selecting your size o-ring he said if the tube falls directly in between the 2 colors (there is an enclosed size guide you match the color to where the tube touches) you go to the larger size....you need to go to the lower size or I should say it is a lot more sturdy and harder to pull out by going to a lower size if it falls exactly in the middle. The custom etching is actually done by Monsoon who I think in-turn has it done directly from the manufacturer in Asia or at least that's were my package directly came from. I would maybe contact Monsoon, they are really good with answering your emails, they got back to me within 24 hrs


Did I really say go with the larger size in the event of a draw in that video? Must have been a senior moment.


----------



## BoxGods

We have discontinued etching services for EV2. Sorry guys but it was just sucking up way too much of my time because people were not using the template I made of for positioning your artwork, and they were not sending it in a vector format. We will still do it for sponsored builds and special cases but otherwise no more EV2 etching.

Also EV2 is designed to eliminate all or most of the metric vs imperial problem because each fitting fits a range of tube that spans a full mm to 1.5mm (depending on which size fitting you use) of difference in the OD.


----------



## Juris

Thanks for the clarification Geno. Can I just ask a couple of questions and sorry if they've been asked a thousand times. Is it possible to get a solvent to remove the acrylic collars at a later stage just in case I decide to bite the EV2 bullet at a later on. Would be nice not to have to get more tubing and bend it all again.

Also (sorry this might be a noob question as its my 1st custom loop build) which of the 2 Monsoon fittings, lock collar type I have above or EV2 do you reckon would be better suited for a pc that needs to be moved or are they both equal. I'm not hitting the Himalayas but the pc is up on a ledge and to access ports/drives at the rear etc it will need to be lifted off and there might be bumps along the way (80lbs weight). Just wondering if the lock collar version is more susceptible to shock compared to the EV2 with its rubber rings acting as cushions at the joints. Cheers.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We have discontinued etching services for EV2. Sorry guys but it was just sucking up way too much of my time because people were not using the template I made of for positioning your artwork, and they were not sending it in a vector format. We will still do it for sponsored builds and special cases but otherwise no more EV2 etching.
> 
> Also EV2 is designed to eliminate all or most of the metric vs imperial problem because each fitting fits a range of tube that spans a full mm to 1.5mm (depending on which size fitting you use) of difference in the OD.


Well this sucks,

One bad apple.... or in this case a bunch


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Did I really say go with the larger size in the event of a draw in that video? Must have been a senior moment.


Lol no worries...I realized before running my loop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We have discontinued etching services for EV2. Sorry guys but it was just sucking up way too much of my time because people were not using the template I made of for positioning your artwork, and they were not sending it in a vector format. We will still do it for sponsored builds and special cases but otherwise no more EV2 etching.
> 
> Also EV2 is designed to eliminate all or most of the metric vs imperial problem because each fitting fits a range of tube that spans a full mm to 1.5mm (depending on which size fitting you use) of difference in the OD.


That seriously sucks







I dont know how people can not understand directions which in turns screws it up for everyone else....you did an amazing job on my custom etched EV'2 (Matte Black- Corsair Gaming Logo)


----------



## spyui

Hello, does monsoon EV2 support brass tubing ?


----------



## toggLesss

those "V-Mounts" are extremely nice.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> We have discontinued etching services for EV2. Sorry guys but it was just sucking up way too much of my time because people were not using the template I made of for positioning your artwork, and they were not sending it in a vector format. We will still do it for sponsored builds and special cases but otherwise no more EV2 etching.
> 
> Also EV2 is designed to eliminate all or most of the metric vs imperial problem because each fitting fits a range of tube that spans a full mm to 1.5mm (depending on which size fitting you use) of difference in the OD.


That sucks; I'm glad I got mine done. Hopefully I wasn't one of those offenders. I didn't send mine inside of that template file, but I re-create that box exactly in the file I sent.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey I was wondering if anyone can give me some info on these fun MMRS Light Plugs, the tube ones.

EDIT: the post below me, reminded me why I hate CCFLs with a passion. Can the tube hold Darkside Leds double stacked like the Frozen Q one does?


----------



## nullreference

So I think I may have accidentally overvolted the switch on my CCFL inverter. Was wiring other LEDs to an on/off vandal switch and figured I would add the inverter to it also, except I ran the 12v yellow directly to the inverter switch instead of the switch jumping the signal from the inverter. Would this affect the CCFLs in any way? Any way to salvage the inverter?

Edit:

Here's what I have now (4 LEDs in parallel running from the 12V on the vandal switch), and what I wish to accomplish is triggering the switch on the Inverter as well.

Currently the Vandal switch is wired as Normally Open, and the parallel LEDs switch on when the switch is pressed, and off when it is depressed.


----------



## nullreference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Hey I was wondering if anyone can give me some info on these fun MMRS Light Plugs, the tube ones.
> 
> EDIT: the post below me, reminded me why I hate CCFLs with a passion. Can the tube hold Darkside Leds double stacked like the Frozen Q one does?


What info did you need about the MMRS light plugs?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullreference*
> 
> What info did you need about the MMRS light plugs?


Sorry, I had a few questions but then changed it to just 1, so I can see why my post may confuse.

I need to know if it can fit Darkside LED strip, or preferable 2 stacked (if it fits 1 should fit 2 stacked) basically I need the dimensions of the PETG tube, Inside dimensions.


----------



## nullreference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Sorry, I had a few questions but then changed it to just 1, so I can see why my post may confuse.
> 
> I need to know if it can fit Darkside LED strip, or preferable 2 stacked (if it fits 1 should fit 2 stacked) basically I need the dimensions of the PETG tube, Inside dimensions.


You are trying to fit this darkside modular LED strip into the actual CCFL chamber? or into the reservoir? Or into one of these plugs?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullreference*
> 
> You are trying to fit this darkside modular LED strip into the actual CCFL chamber? or into the reservoir? Or into one of these plugs?


Into that plugs tube. Where the CCFL goes in that plug. Yes the end goal is to have the LEDs inside the reservoir.

Frozen Q reservoirs have a similar acrylic rod down the center, with a CCFL in them, they can fit Darkside LEDs hints why I think the Monsoon may.

Also not that exact strip, but close enough the strip ill be using is a the g2 in white, its thinner in height wise.


----------



## nullreference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Into that plugs tube. Where the CCFL goes in that plug. Yes the end goal is to have the LEDs inside the reservoir.
> 
> Frozen Q reservoirs have a similar acrylic rod down the center, with a CCFL in them, they can fit Darkside LEDs hints why I think the Monsoon may.
> 
> Also not that exact strip, but close enough the strip ill be using is a the g2 in white, its thinner in height wise.


I don't think the CCFL Plug dimensions are as big as something like the tension core inside the Frozen Q Reservoirs (This is what you are referencing right?). But you might be able to run something else inside the reservoir to get a similar effect. Like a capped off clear downstem or something threaded to the inside of a multi cap, straight out the other side of another multi cap? Could be an interesting take on adding internal LEDs to the MMRS.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullreference*
> 
> I don't think the CCFL Plug dimensions are as big as something like the tension core inside the Frozen Q Reservoirs (This is what you are referencing right?).


Negative, this

The tube OD is less than a g1/4 and the ID is barely larger than the cathode tube.

Keep in mind the cathode tubes that go with the Frozen Q are about 2mm wide those Darkside rigid strips I believe are 2.5-3mm wide I will have to find the exacts though.
This 



 will help shed some Light









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullreference*
> 
> But you might be able to run something else inside the reservoir to get a similar effect. Like a capped off clear downstem or something threaded to the inside of a multi cap, straight out the other side of another multi cap? Could be an interesting take on adding internal LEDs to the MMRS.


Cant do that as I have a d5 mounted on the bottom.

Here is the thing, I hate CCFLs with a passion as they have caught a PC on fire on me before. Maybe it wasn't the light but the inverter, doesn't matter, I do not like them, especially after that.

The LEDs require no Inverter, the 



 so 2 stacked, should put out a very close to 360 light spread.

I actually do have a second question, If i do decide to go with the Cathodes, what color are the cathodes? Why is there no white light black body? Are all the cathodes UV? As that simply isnt going to work, I need the brightest white light I can get my hands on, as this reservoir will be limo tinted. To appear black when the internal light is off.

Found my answers, I am just going to go with the CCFL and trust in monsoons solid looking inverter, the ones I used in the past were well Junk, as has been mentioned in the thread a lot of them are bad. Literally had one catch on fire, which resulted in a dead power supply and dead hard drives, and lots of melted cables, wasn't happy camper.

I do wish you made a black option with white light and clear tube though Geno







as stands just have to buy 2, sets.


----------



## nullreference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Negative, this
> 
> The tube OD is less than a g1/4 and the ID is barely larger than the cathode tube.
> 
> Keep in mind the cathode tubes that go with the Frozen Q are about 2mm wide those Darkside rigid strips I believe are 2.5-3mm wide I will have to find the exacts though.
> This
> 
> 
> 
> will help shed some Light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant do that as I have a d5 mounted on the bottom.
> 
> Here is the thing, I hate CCFLs with a passion as they have caught a PC on fire on me before. Maybe it wasn't the light but the inverter, doesn't matter, I do not like them, especially after that.
> 
> The LEDs require no Inverter, the
> 
> 
> 
> so 2 stacked, should put out a very close to 360 light spread.
> 
> I actually do have a second question, If i do decide to go with the Cathodes, what color are the cathodes? Why is there no white light black body? Are all the cathodes UV? As that simply isnt going to work, I need the brightest white light I can get my hands on, as this reservoir will be limo tinted. To appear black when the internal light is off.
> 
> Found my answers, I am just going to go with the CCFL and trust in monsoons solid looking inverter, the ones I used in the past were well Junk, as has been mentioned in the thread a lot of them are bad. Literally had one catch on fire, which resulted in a dead power supply and dead hard drives, and lots of melted cables, wasn't happy camper.
> 
> I do wish you made a black option with white light and clear tube though Geno
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as stands just have to buy 2, sets.


The monsoon inverter is pretty solid, when used correctly. I'm curious of what the expected Voltage input is on the switch though, since I'm 99% positive I burned mine up


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullreference*
> 
> The monsoon inverter is pretty solid, when used correctly. I'm curious of what the expected Voltage input is on the switch though, since I'm 99% positive I burned mine up


I just picked one of these inverters up (with the switch cable). I don't think you should be adding any voltage and that the switch is really a jumper ... remove the jumper and it doesn't pass power to the lights, put the jumper back and it does, swap the jumper for a switch ... and you can open and close the jumper at your leisure.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullreference*
> 
> The monsoon inverter is pretty solid, when used correctly. I'm curious of what the expected Voltage input is on the switch though, since I'm 99% positive I burned mine up


It's literally the opposite of solid. There's a reason all the Amazon reviews complain about it and it's not because all those people are misusing it.

My first one had the power connector collapse into the housing because cable was upside down. Fair enough, that's my bad although I was not jamming it in there. Second one collapsed despite being as careful as you could be. Third one has two ports that just went out for some reason. Fourth one is working but again it was awkward plugging it in and I felt it straining. After like three attempts I plugged one side in then the other and kind of rocked it left to right and all the way in.

Love Monsoon products but this connector is frail.


----------



## nullreference

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> I just picked one of these inverters up (with the switch cable). I don't think you should be adding any voltage and that the switch is really a jumper ... remove the jumper and it doesn't pass power to the lights, put the jumper back and it does, swap the jumper for a switch ... and you can open and close the jumper at your leisure.


That's correct but I would prefer to not add another toggle switch just for the CCFL. I think I might have to find a compatible MOSFET and potentially some resistors depending on what MOSFETs are available to do what I want. Wire the 12V into the gate (possibly add a couple resistors), use the source as the "hot" side of the Inverter switch, and the negative connected to the drain on the transistor.


----------



## Duality92

I'll just leave these here.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I'll just leave these here.


That is gorgeous!

How do you check the fluid levels though?

Is the fluid black (Really dark red)? Or the res black?

Either way THANK YOU for a wonderful Idea! That Warpcore looking Black Res, is AMAZING!


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> That is gorgeous!
> 
> How do you check the fluid levels though?
> 
> Is the fluid black (Really dark red)? Or the res black?
> 
> Either way THANK YOU for a wonderful Idea! That Warpcore looking Black Res, is AMAZING!


Thanks










I have pastel black coolant


----------



## smithsrt8

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> I'll just leave these here.














That is amazing looking...what did you use for tubing?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is amazing looking...what did you use for tubing?


It's monsoon 3/8*1/2 black petg









Thanks for the comments


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Negative, this
> 
> The tube OD is less than a g1/4 and the ID is barely larger than the cathode tube.
> 
> Keep in mind the cathode tubes that go with the Frozen Q are about 2mm wide those Darkside rigid strips I believe are 2.5-3mm wide I will have to find the exacts though.
> This
> 
> 
> 
> will help shed some Light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cant do that as I have a d5 mounted on the bottom.
> 
> Here is the thing, I hate CCFLs with a passion as they have caught a PC on fire on me before. Maybe it wasn't the light but the inverter, doesn't matter, I do not like them, especially after that.
> 
> The LEDs require no Inverter, the
> 
> 
> 
> so 2 stacked, should put out a very close to 360 light spread.
> 
> I actually do have a second question, If i do decide to go with the Cathodes, what color are the cathodes? Why is there no white light black body? Are all the cathodes UV? As that simply isnt going to work, I need the brightest white light I can get my hands on, as this reservoir will be limo tinted. To appear black when the internal light is off.
> 
> Found my answers, I am just going to go with the CCFL and trust in monsoons solid looking inverter, the ones I used in the past were well Junk, as has been mentioned in the thread a lot of them are bad. Literally had one catch on fire, which resulted in a dead power supply and dead hard drives, and lots of melted cables, wasn't happy camper.
> 
> I do wish you made a black option with white light and clear tube though Geno
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as stands just have to buy 2, sets.


ID on the tube is 5mm just FYI.

We have had some issues with the inverters--like growing pains I guess. The first run the SATA plugs would tear off of the PCB WAY too easily. I tossed about $20,000 worth of inverters in the trash. The second run used SATA surface mount plugs bonded onto the PCB and was a big improvement...still have had a few people manage to tear the plug off if they get carried away so I finally tracked down a SMT plug that thru mounts to the PCH and is essentially bolted down to it. They will NOT come off now. They are trickling out into retail as resellers sell thru their existing stock.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> It's literally the opposite of solid. There's a reason all the Amazon reviews complain about it and it's not because all those people are misusing it.
> 
> My first one had the power connector collapse into the housing because cable was upside down. Fair enough, that's my bad although I was not jamming it in there. Second one collapsed despite being as careful as you could be. Third one has two ports that just went out for some reason. Fourth one is working but again it was awkward plugging it in and I felt it straining. After like three attempts I plugged one side in then the other and kind of rocked it left to right and all the way in.
> 
> Love Monsoon products but this connector is frail.


You are correct and I am really sorry...we have worked and worked at finding a reliable board mounted SATA plug. I know it is no consolation when you got a crappy part, (again I apologize) but the minute I found out they were tearing off I contacted all of our resellers and had them toss all of that stock and we used a better SATA plug and replaced all of that inventory. They were better but I was still having a few people damaging the plug--sometimes it is not easy to plug them in "perfectly" when you are working deep inside your case so I am not blaming anyone.

The good news is we have finally tracked down a bullet proof board mounted SATA connector. They have steel pins that pass thru the PCB and are soldered on both sides and do not come off short of destroying the board.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have pastel black coolant


I have to agree--stellar build all the way round but the use of different "textures" of the same color is inspired. I usually try to avoid suggestions on such creative well executed builds but I would be curious what the carbon fiber accent disks would look like on the rotaries. They keep with your different textures of the same color deal. Easy to pop off if they look like a$$ and cheap and easy to try.


----------



## Mega Man

There is a simple solution.

Trash the crappy sata connector, and go back to the trusted, and better 4 pin amp mate n Lok

I hate Sata connectors and wish they would just die, far too bulky.

The only reason mate n Lok got sick a poor rep was the crappy cheap connectors not made to spec as they were not a reputable company


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> ID on the tube is 5mm just FYI.
> 
> We have had some issues with the inverters--like growing pains I guess. The first run the SATA plugs would tear off of the PCB WAY too easily. I tossed about $20,000 worth of inverters in the trash. The second run used SATA surface mount plugs bonded onto the PCB and was a big improvement...still have had a few people manage to tear the plug off if they get carried away so I finally tracked down a SMT plug that thru mounts to the PCH and is essentially bolted down to it. They will NOT come off now. They are trickling out into retail as resellers sell thru their existing stock.


Thank you







.

As long as they are not catching on fire lol. Seriously those things scare me.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spyui*
> 
> Hello, does monsoon EV2 support brass tubing ?


Yes provided the OD is within the supported size range. Just be mindful to dress the cut ends of your tube and remove any sharp edges.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> You are correct and I am really sorry...we have worked and worked at finding a reliable board mounted SATA plug. I know it is no consolation when you got a crappy part, (again I apologize) but the minute I found out they were tearing off I contacted all of our resellers and had them toss all of that stock and we used a better SATA plug and replaced all of that inventory. They were better but I was still having a few people damaging the plug--sometimes it is not easy to plug them in "perfectly" when you are working deep inside your case so I am not blaming anyone.
> 
> The good news is we have finally tracked down a bullet proof board mounted SATA connector. They have steel pins that pass thru the PCB and are soldered on both sides and do not come off short of destroying the board.


Nice! No worries at all; thankfully they're affordable to replace. Appreciate the response and info!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> As long as they are not catching on fire lol. Seriously those things scare me.


Probably shouldn't mention this but they scare the crap out of me as well. Everyone was pushing me and pushing me to make the ends removable and I just refused because I don't want some young kid tinkering with one and hurting himself.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Probably shouldn't mention this but they scare the crap out of me as well. Everyone was pushing me and pushing me to make the ends removable and I just refused because I don't want some young kid tinkering with one and hurting himself.


LOL probably shouldn't. However yep that is a good reason to be scare for sure!

I have another question which most likely is not answerable lol. How bright is your LED stop plug. Heres the thing, After rechecking my design abilities, the cathode really wont work (unless! the tube is small enough to go through a Bitspower T block, and into the Res and still allow enough room around it for liquid flow.)

How bright are the LEDs? So if the LED went through this complicated setup lol, how bright do you think it would be? Bright enough to be able to see the water levels on a tinted black reservoir?

I am going to attempt to dye the tubes black while trying to make it still be able to light up to a grey to check water level.



Top to bottom:


Monsoon Light Plug?
Bitspower Q block, with Bitspower 90s on either side.
20mm Extension tube (Not sure the length just a rough guess, got to clear the FDP top for the 90s)
MMRS FDP
MMRS 50mm Reservoir Tube
MMRS Coupler
MMRS 100mm Tube
MMRS D5 Pump
The other option is whats up with the mating kit? Could I go FDP > Coupler then 150mm tube?


----------



## Mega Man

Not that I care, but you do realize they make multi port tops?, even side ports.... you could easily make it work without all that shenanigans


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not that I care, but you do realize they make multi port tops?, even side ports.... you could easily make it work without all that shenanigans


Yes I do, the thing is I need to mount the reservoir with the FDP I cannot use traditional mounting methods.

I thought about using the 3 port cap and 3 pass throughs and then using them to attach the reservoir. However I think the spacing of the 3 holes would not allow this, as each Fill Port would need 25mm around the center of the hole (so 50mm center to center).

The case this reservoir is going in is a Hex Gear R40 its very small, and this res is way to big for it lol. There will literally be 3mm of clearance from the bottom of the D5 and the top of the 360 rad. Also the positioning and ability to add a way to fill from the top complicates the situation.

However the easier way. Would be to stop trying to color the reservoir and light it up for liquid level checks and just color the fluid. I feel as though coloring the fluid is costly and a pain for the just the reservoir though. As the tubing will be chrome so only the reservoir will show fluid color.


----------



## BoxGods

Yes the LED would work...they are easily removable without draining the loop so you could essentially use any LED you want as long as it is not larger than 5mm. There are some very bright 5mm LED's available.

The Mate Kit and coupler would also work.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Yes the LED would work...they are easily removable without draining the loop so you could essentially use any LED you want as long as it is not larger than 5mm. There are some very bright 5mm LED's available.
> 
> The Mate Kit and coupler would also work.


Hey okay I got one more question, well a 2 parter lol.

1. What are the dimensions of the Reservoir tubes? Like exact OD, ID, wall, and Length for a 150mm Tube. Also is there any play there possible, what I mean is with the mating system, can it be a .5mm thinner than your OD? Or must it be exact.

Or

2. Do you have any idea how I could smoke your clear tubes? What kind of Acrylic are they? Or are they PETG? Why no Smoked option? I want a black Tube, like the black you offer, but I want it to be light enough or transparent just enough that with a ton of internal light you can make out fluid levels.

My goal is to be able to turn the light on to check fluid levels, and then turn it back off. I am going to test my side window with some window tint from Walmart. I am worried about crazing and issues from the glue, and with a reservoir that is a huge risk. (I may not even bother trying, and just buy a sheet of dark smoke for the side panel, though with the reservoir I cannot do that)


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> 2. Do you have any idea how I could smoke your clear tubes? What kind of Acrylic are they? Or are they PETG? Why no Smoked option? I want a black Tube, like the black you offer, but I want it to be light enough or transparent just enough that with a ton of internal light you can make out fluid levels.)


Couldn't you just use standard window tint?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> Couldn't you just use standard window tint?


That was the pan, till I opened the window tint and the big DO NOT USE ON ACRYLIC, jumped out at me lol.

Apparently the Glues in the tint will cause the acrylic to crack, craze and bubble.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Hey okay I got one more question, well a 2 parter lol.
> 
> 1. What are the dimensions of the Reservoir tubes? Like exact OD, ID, wall, and Length for a 150mm Tube. Also is there any play there possible, what I mean is with the mating system, can it be a .5mm thinner than your OD? Or must it be exact.
> 
> Or
> 
> 2. Do you have any idea how I could smoke your clear tubes? What kind of Acrylic are they? Or are they PETG? Why no Smoked option? I want a black Tube, like the black you offer, but I want it to be light enough or transparent just enough that with a ton of internal light you can make out fluid levels.
> 
> My goal is to be able to turn the light on to check fluid levels, and then turn it back off. I am going to test my side window with some window tint from Walmart. I am worried about crazing and issues from the glue, and with a reservoir that is a huge risk. (I may not even bother trying, and just buy a sheet of dark smoke for the side panel, though with the reservoir I cannot do that)


1. Not at my workstation but from memory OD is 60mm with a 3mm wall. Length is nominal meaning whatever the specified length is plus 6mm. If the tube is listed as 150mm it will actually be 156mm long because 3mm on each end recess into the end cap (or coupler).

2. We don't offer a smoke tube because nobody would buy it. By nobody I mean not enough people to justify a 3,000 m production run. You are correct that you should never use auto window tint film on acrylic--you might as well just assemblt your rig and then dump a bucket of water into it. That said, they do sell tint films specifically designed for acrylic--just use one of those would be my best suggestion as trying to dye the tube is a waste of time.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> 1. Not at my workstation but from memory OD is 60mm with a 3mm wall. Length is nominal meaning whatever the specified length is plus 6mm. If the tube is listed as 150mm it will actually be 156mm long because 3mm on each end recess into the end cap (or coupler).
> 
> 2. We don't offer a smoke tube because nobody would buy it. By nobody I mean not enough people to justify a 3,000 m production run. You are correct that you should never use auto window tint film on acrylic--you might as well just assemblt your rig and then dump a bucket of water into it. That said, they do sell tint films specifically designed for acrylic--just use one of those would be my best suggestion as trying to dye the tube is a waste of time.


I will see what I can do with those dimensions. I am thinking of having a few Glass tubes made for me (EXPENSIVE!!!) they have added benefits though.

As to the Dying acrylic. I thought so too, but I seen this the other day and it has my intrigued. I dont know how but she seems to have got it to work.


----------



## DocShay

Any plans to release borosilicate glass reservoir tubes? Love my MMRS reservoir i've had for awhile, however my next build I plan to go borosilicate glass tubing and would like my reservoir to be the same.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Any plans to release borosilicate glass reservoir tubes? Love my MMRS reservoir i've had for awhile, however my next build I plan to go borosilicate glass tubing and would like my reservoir to be the same.


That was exactly why I just asked for the dimensions. Take the dimensions he gave us, and buy a borosilicate glass tube, in the lenght(s) you want. I found a place with a MOQ as low as 50 (most are in the hundreds +). I will provide the link if you want, when I find it again lol.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Any plans to release borosilicate glass reservoir tubes? Love my MMRS reservoir i've had for awhile, however my next build I plan to go borosilicate glass tubing and would like my reservoir to be the same.


There is just not enough customer interest to make it a viable product. Resellers don't want to stock it (again because of low customer interest) and I would get stuck with a ton of inventory.


----------



## DocShay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> That was exactly why I just asked for the dimensions. Take the dimensions he gave us, and buy a borosilicate glass tube, in the lenght(s) you want. I found a place with a MOQ as low as 50 (most are in the hundreds +). I will provide the link if you want, when I find it again lol.


Please do when you find it!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I will see what I can do with those dimensions. I am thinking of having a few Glass tubes made for me (EXPENSIVE!!!) they have added benefits though.
> 
> As to the Dying acrylic. I thought so too, but I seen this the other day and it has my intrigued. I dont know how but she seems to have got it to work.


The Krylon version is garbage for the frosted textures. The texture comes off very easily specially when near moisture or anything damp. I suggest using the Rust-Oleum brand & there frosted paint. It works allot better, just make sure you do it outside( The flumes are a bit strong).

I switch to glass in my build recently & will be frosting most of the glass soon.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The Krylon version is garbage for the frosted textures. The texture comes off very easily specially when near moisture or anything damp. I suggest using the Rust-Oleum brand & there frosted paint. It works allot better, just make sure you do it outside( The flumes are a bit strong).
> 
> I switch to glass in my build recently & will be frosting most of the glass soon.


Thanks for the tips, I am not trying to frost though, I want the reservoir to be black, but see through enough that I can with enough light, see the liquid level.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Thanks for the tips, I am not trying to frost though, I want the reservoir to be black, but see through enough that I can with enough light, see the liquid level.


Hey buddy take a look at this
https://www.hobbytown.com/ps31-smoke-lexan-spray-paint-3oz-by-tamiya-tam86031/p125402?gclid=Cj0KCQjw7pHLBRDqARIsAFyKPa6PuSQ-ECGhl6UCr_ppSjPfKkcPd4aVYv4kYnu2APYzhmVv7ucyZ7QaAuJ0EALw_wcB


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Thanks for the tips, I am not trying to frost though, I want the reservoir to be black, but see through enough that I can with enough light, see the liquid level.


Krylon is good for basic things(I use there primer & finishing coats). Rust-Oleum is allot better when it comes to specialized paints


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Krylon is good for basic things(I use there primer & finishing coats). Rust-Oleum is allot better when it comes to specialized paints


I agree 100%....I only use Rustoleum for my rattle cans....not to mention their self-etching primer is spot on for painting alum as well as a filler coat.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Hey thanks for the tips guys,

I do not want to use the spray on tints, as that video showed.

Hades the video I linked about the dyes shows that spray tint, it does not like Casted acrylic and bubbles and just looks bad.

I am going to try her *Dye* Method, I know it doesnt really dye the acrylic at best it stains it, however if staining gives the finish I want, without leeching then I am happy camper. I also have caught wind of using acetone with the dye bath to "melt" the acrylic a bit, to the point where the dye soaks in. I will buy a few tubes and test and see what I like best.

If all else fails, I will use the Glass Tube and some window Tint.

As to the glass comment earlier.
I have found this place, https://www.customglassandoptics.com/pages/Pyrex%20Rod%20and%20Tubing%20Cut%20To%20Length/page:3

"244600C TUBING (STANDARD) OD 60MM ID 55.2 Wall 2.4MM" With custom lengths, in Inches (Might be able to specify mm in order comments) but there is 100 dollar min order, I had another place that had a 50 dollar minium order, and no listings for tubes, as they stated they can make it any size you need. I will have to keep trying to find that again.

http://www.greatglas.com/PyrexCylinders.htm?gclid=Cj0KEQjw7pHLBRDqs-X8hZ3Mgp0BEiQAXIo9ripYu9LYHA3WOorBSgrqzhiHzAW-P3D66ZCeLTU-9iQaAtiu8P8HAQ

May also give them a try, they say they can make it exact specifactions.


----------



## hadesfactor

There's gotta be an easy solution to this that we are just not seeing....wait a minute.....Plasti-dip has a translucent smoke spray....it adheres pretty decent and you can remove it....before spending $50+ pick up a can for 8.99


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> There's gotta be an easy solution to this that we are just not seeing....wait a minute.....Plasti-dip has a translucent smoke spray....it adheres pretty decent and you can remove it....before spending $50+ pick up a can for 8.99


That stuff scratches to easy.

My ideal setup would be the smoke stained warp core style frosted tube.

If I cannot meet that, then I would prefer glass The glass tubes are not that much more than monsoons Acrylic tubes, and they would allow me to run Mayhems XT1, which would be an added benefit. Especially as the only acrylic part in the loop is the reservoir, the tubing is going to be metal.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> That stuff scratches to easy.
> 
> My ideal setup would be the smoke stained warp core style frosted tube.
> 
> If I cannot meet that, then I would prefer glass The glass tubes are not that much more than monsoons Acrylic tubes, and they would allow me to run Mayhems XT1, which would be an added benefit. Especially as the only acrylic part in the loop is the reservoir, the tubing is going to be metal.


Well good luck and I cant wait to see pics


----------



## BoxGods

They DO make window tint film for acrylic windows.


----------



## TOOLP

Hi Gene,

i have a question about the colouring of your products.
I have about 20 ev1 fittings in blue. Now i cleaned them in water with dishsoap.
On two of the fittings the outer colour layer came of in big pieces. Now i have two crome fittings.
Do you know a solution to get the colour of the fittings, because i scratched the paint off on a few of them so it would be nice to strip it all the way.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Any plans to release borosilicate glass reservoir tubes? Love my MMRS reservoir i've had for awhile, however my next build I plan to go borosilicate glass tubing and would like my reservoir to be the same.


This question has been asked atlease a dozen times in this thread alone(I even asked once). I think allot would buy it if the options was there. The demand is there, Even EK brought back there Glass reservoir. I will always pick Glass res over acrylic. Acrylic scratches up way to easily.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> Hi Gene,
> 
> i have a question about the colouring of your products.
> I have about 20 ev1 fittings in blue. Now i cleaned them in water with dishsoap.
> On two of the fittings the outer colour layer came of in big pieces. Now i have two crome fittings.
> Do you know a solution to get the colour of the fittings, because i scratched the paint off on a few of them so it would be nice to strip it all the way.


Not sure how you would get the color of as it is a plating not a paint. If you email me I can get the faluty blue replaced for you.


----------



## Cyber Locc

I thought they were anodized?


----------



## TOOLP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not sure how you would get the color of as it is a plating not a paint. If you email me I can get the faluty blue replaced for you.


I dont think its worth the effort (I live in germany) and i like the crome look.
But how does plating work.
I can understand that you can put crome onto other metals but i dont get how its done with the colour.

Thanks for your hard work and the offer to replace the fittings.


----------



## TOOLP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> I thought they were anodized?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not sure how you would get the color of as it is a plating not a paint. If you email me I can get the faluty blue replaced for you.


I thought that as well so I was really surprised. I can take a few pics of the fittings tomorrow.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> I thought that as well so I was really surprised. I can take a few pics of the fittings tomorrow.


The fittings are marine grade brass. You can only anodize aluminum.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> I dont think its worth the effort (I live in germany) and i like the crome look.
> But how does plating work.
> I can understand that you can put crome onto other metals but i dont get how its done with the colour.
> 
> Thanks for your hard work and the offer to replace the fittings.


They are chrome plated first and that chrome plating is a pretty tough finish so you could experiment with a few different chemicals and see if any removed the the color finish as it is not as durable as the chrome layer underneath. Obviously at your own risk and this is an unofficial suggestion, but maybe try an EZ-Off type oven cleaner?


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> I dont think its worth the effort (I live in germany) and i like the crome look.
> But how does plating work.
> I can understand that you can put crome onto other metals but i dont get how its done with the colour.
> 
> Thanks for your hard work and the offer to replace the fittings.


Brake Clean man, BRAKE clean will rip anything off







.


----------



## TOOLP

So i took the Pictures today. I will try the break clean tomorow and post the results.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> So i took the Pictures today. I will try the break clean tomorow and post the results.


When you do the Brake Clean, do 1 at first and test what it does to the chrome, it might rip that off too.

I have used it in the past to rip off plating and anodizing, it will likely take it off, just not sure the effect on the chrome.

What you want to do is spray the fitting down and let it sit, for a few hours and check it if the plating is bubbling up or peeling, then try to wipe it away, repeat until chrome.

Again just do 1 at first and test.


----------



## hadesfactor

Im guessing it should be fine on chrome since there are chromed out calipers but I wont stake my name on it


----------



## TOOLP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> When you do the Brake Clean, do 1 at first and test what it does to the chrome, it might rip that off too.
> 
> I have used it in the past to rip off plating and anodizing, it will likely take it off, just not sure the effect on the chrome.
> 
> What you want to do is spray the fitting down and let it sit, for a few hours and check it if the plating is bubbling up or peeling, then try to wipe it away, repeat until chrome.
> 
> Again just do 1 at first and test.


I will do it like that, thanks for the suggestion.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Update to my Resovoir idea, I_ am just going to bite the bullet and go with pastel coolant black. So it has a used/in use Oil Esque vibe. Eliminates all the freakishness and shows my fill levels, also when not fully filled, it will increase the "Oil" look that I am trying to go for.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TOOLP*
> 
> I will do it like that, thanks for the suggestion.


I am a little torn over this...on the one hand as a product designer and manufacturer knowing what a huge effort it was developing the colored finishes I cringe a bit. On the other hand, the modder in me is like, "Yeah NUKE that sucker and let's see if it melts







"


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DocShay*
> 
> Any plans to release borosilicate glass reservoir tubes? Love my MMRS reservoir i've had for awhile, however my next build I plan to go borosilicate glass tubing and would like my reservoir to be the same.


So I reached out to the place that has the 50 dollar MOQ, I will let you know what they say.

If they cannot do it, I will be shooting for the 100 dollar MOQ site and I guess sell the extras on the Marketplace.

@Boxgods,

Is there any play in that nominal? So if the tubes were 6 inches (153mms) would there be any chance of working?

Or even bigger or smaller by a mm? Or is there just no play period?


----------



## Unnatural

Any tip/suggestion about painting the delrin parts?


----------



## MuxLee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Any tip/suggestion about painting the delrin parts?


lots of sanding and primer to seal the pores

If you can buy the parts in white that would be easier 



here are some WIP photos so u can see the difference

don't forget the mask of the ports and threads

Mux


----------



## Unnatural

Thanks! Awesome work, btw!


----------



## MuxLee

No Problem ... I should update my thread as have made a lot of progress since I took those .

Mux


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> So I reached out to the place that has the 50 dollar MOQ, I will let you know what they say.
> 
> If they cannot do it, I will be shooting for the 100 dollar MOQ site and I guess sell the extras on the Marketplace.
> 
> @Boxgods,
> 
> Is there any play in that nominal? So if the tubes were 6 inches (153mms) would there be any chance of working?
> 
> Or even bigger or smaller by a mm? Or is there just no play period?


If you alter the tube length you have to alter the tension rod length to match--so best to just use the correct tube length.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Unnatural*
> 
> Any tip/suggestion about painting the delrin parts?


I think it is easier / better to buy them in white and use dye rather than paint. Get a few extra caps to practice on.


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you alter the tube length you have to alter the tension rod length to match--so best to just use the correct tube length.


Well that is the goal of course. However they only offer inches of length, I asked about mms, however even if they say yes, you know how that goes 1/16 inch tolerance and all.


----------



## BoxGods

Just curious if any of you guys in Germany or Europe have heard anything about Aquatuning "scaling back" or going out of business? I am not saying they are--just hearing rumors and you know how that goes.


----------



## hadesfactor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just curious if any of you guys in Germany or Europe have heard anything about Aquatuning "scaling back" or going out of business? I am not saying they are--just hearing rumors and you know how that goes.


i always thought they were owned by alphacool,phobya


----------



## Cyber Locc

@Boxgods, are the specs for your black tube, straight up opaque? Or is it transparent black acrylic?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> i always thought they were owned by alphacool,phobya


No, Aquatuning owns Alphacool and Phyoba, those are there "House Brands" so to speak.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just curious if any of you guys in Germany or Europe have heard anything about Aquatuning "scaling back" or going out of business? I am not saying they are--just hearing rumors and you know how that goes.


I am not in Germany, AFAIK the only thing they are scaling back on is Mayhems due to the recent dispute between the 2 of them. Mayhems is no longer supplying them.

Alphacool is on trial for their newest pump, and the community is being quite harsh about it. So I would assume that is where these rumors stem from.

Apparently there is some issues that cause it to get noisy. And Alphacool is denying warranty's to users that have used Mayhems coolants.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> @Boxgods, are the specs for your black tube, straight up opaque? Or is it transparent black acrylic?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hadesfactor*
> 
> i always thought they were owned by alphacool,phobya
> 
> 
> 
> No, Aquatuning owns Alphacool and Phyoba, those are there "House Brands" so to speak.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just curious if any of you guys in Germany or Europe have heard anything about Aquatuning "scaling back" or going out of business? I am not saying they are--just hearing rumors and you know how that goes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am not in Germany, AFAIK the only thing they are scaling back on is Mayhems due to the recent dispute between the 2 of them. Mayhems is no longer supplying them.
> 
> Alphacool is on trial for their newest pump, and the community is being quite harsh about it. So I would assume that is where these rumors stem from.
> 
> Apparently there is some issues that cause it to get noisy. And Alphacool is denying warranty's to users that have used Mayhems coolants.
Click to expand...





Why does it seem like Mayhem's has to have a conflict with everyone in the industry at some point, I love their coolants, but it gets old really quick and I'm feeling I shouldn't use them based on my moral values...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> Why does it seem like Mayhem's has to have a conflict with everyone in the industry at some point, I love their coolants, but it gets old really quick and I'm feeling I shouldn't use them based on my moral values...


Well not to add drama to this thread, butt.

I mean Aquatuning did kind of start it, though I feel they were justified to.

Here is the thing, which I can link the thread upon request where I get all sciencey about it







. Mayhems Pastel, with a chemical issue, due to using Blitz and then Pastel, without a complete cleaning, can and will generate a sand like substance in the water.

Alphacool is refusing warranty's that use Mayhems, due to knowing this, and finding sand in some of the RMAed pumps.

Mayhems flipped out because of this, cut them off, and drama ensued.

People are saying that, there is a problem with the pump and the Mayhems part is an excuse and blowing that statement out of proportion, and it all escalated pretty quickly.

I must also add, that surprisingly, when I got Sciencey, and called mick out on not being a chemist, and pointed out serious issues with his coolants. He was very humble and nice to me about it, and actually said that he was happy I brought those things up so he could look into them. He took my criticisms very well, which I know he has had issues with doing in the past. So I was happy to see that.

It seems to me, he is trying, to fix the issues with his fluids, and improve his relations with the community.

Sorry for the thread Hijack Gene, but you started it







.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyber Locc*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> Why does it seem like Mayhem's has to have a conflict with everyone in the industry at some point, I love their coolants, but it gets old really quick and I'm feeling I shouldn't use them based on my moral values...
> 
> 
> 
> Well not to add drama to this thread, butt.
> 
> I mean Aquatuning did kind of start it, though I feel they were justified to.
> 
> Here is the thing, which I can link the thread upon request where I get all sciencey about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mayhems Pastel, with a chemical issue, due to using Blitz and then Pastel, without a complete cleaning, can and will generate a sand like substance in the water.
> 
> Alphacool is refusing warranty's that use Mayhems, due to knowing this, and finding sand in some of the RMAed pumps.
> 
> Mayhems flipped out because of this, cut them off, and drama ensued.
> 
> People are saying that, there is a problem with the pump and the Mayhems part is an excuse and blowing that statement out of proportion, and it all escalated pretty quickly.
> 
> I must also add, that surprisingly, when I got Sciencey, and called mick out on not being a chemist, and pointed out serious issues with his coolants. He was very humble and nice to me about it, and actually said that he was happy I brought those things up so he could look into them. He took my criticisms very well, which I know he has had issues with doing in the past. So I was happy to see that.
Click to expand...





And how many times do they have to "flip out" on a customer until at some point we as the end user and customer call it BS and stop supporting the rampant rage? I swear he must go bowling with the FCPU guy, haha!


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> 
> And how many times do they have to "flip out" on a customer until at some point we as the end user and customer call it BS and stop supporting the rampant rage? I swear he must go bowling with the FCPU guy, haha!


Thats what I am saying, I was genuinely surprised he didn't flip out on me. So that tells me he is honestly trying, and honestly that is all we can ask. We have all flipped out on people, we are only humans after all.

Here if you want to see all the drama, http://www.overclock.net/t/1624192/alphacool-pump-vpp755-review-of-noise-issues-and-problems/350


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry. But as usual, no that was not the problem.

They denied warranty after purchase. In which the warranty never stated to not use it ( the coolant in question ) and after denying warranty, changed their warranty agreement. Again AFTER.

Then (I am loosely paraphrasing ) stated it was because several manufactures deny warranty for using it (and they named them ) one of which is Koolance ( which duh, it's Koolance your warranty is void cause you touched it, or because the paint chipped.... ) anywho most others (not all but all but 1 iirc) came forward and said.... um no? Now they the reps have completely disappeared from ocn and will not respond or help other users.

THAT is the problem.

You seem to think the world resolves around mayham. And it really doesn't to me, he does not affect my decision to not buy alphacool at all. I don't care. It is the lack of accountability and the lack of warranty, and the lack of cs that caused this.

You can't change your terms for warranty after purchase, sorry.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry. But as usual, no that was not the problem.
> 
> They denied warranty after purchase. In which the warranty never stated to not use it ( the coolant in question ) and after denying warranty, changed their warranty agreement. Again AFTER.
> 
> Then (I am loosely paraphrasing ) stated it was because several manufactures deny warranty for using it (and they named them ) one of which is Koolance ( which duh, it's Koolance your warranty is void cause you touched it, or because the paint chipped.... ) anywho most others (not all but all but 1 iirc) came forward and said.... um no? Now they the reps have completely disappeared from ocn and will not respond or help other users.
> 
> THAT is the problem.
> 
> You seem to think the world resolves around mayham. And it really doesn't to me, he does not affect my decision to not buy alphacool at all. I don't care. It is the lack of accountability and the lack of warranty, and the lack of cs that caused this.
> 
> You can't change your terms for warranty after purchase, sorry.


This sums it up pretty well. The problem with AT/alphacool is they don't care about their customers or the community, they're only after money. Mayhems and Monsoon are my favorite watercooling companies because they both care about and interact with the community, offering support and listening to suggestions.


----------



## Radnad

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry. But as usual, no that was not the problem.
> 
> They denied warranty after purchase. In which the warranty never stated to not use it ( the coolant in question ) and after denying warranty, changed their warranty agreement. Again AFTER.
> 
> Then (I am loosely paraphrasing ) stated it was because several manufactures deny warranty for using it (and they named them ) one of which is Koolance ( which duh, it's Koolance your warranty is void cause you touched it, or because the paint chipped.... ) anywho most others (not all but all but 1 iirc) came forward and said.... um no? Now they the reps have completely disappeared from ocn and will not respond or help other users.
> 
> THAT is the problem.
> 
> You seem to think the world resolves around mayham. And it really doesn't to me, he does not affect my decision to not buy alphacool at all. I don't care. It is the lack of accountability and the lack of warranty, and the lack of cs that caused this.
> 
> You can't change your terms for warranty after purchase, sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> This sums it up pretty well. The problem with AT/alphacool is they don't care about their customers or the community, they're only after money. Mayhems and Monsoon are my favorite watercooling companies because they both care about and interact with the community, offering support and listening to suggestions.
Click to expand...





Mayhem's has publicly called users and customers idiots and publicly argued with techtubers, not sure I would call that "support and listening" imo. I love their products, but hate their attitude.

Edit: Hopefully as @Cyber Locc mentioned though maybe they're changing thier attitude, we'll see I guess...


----------



## Cyber Locc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sorry. But as usual, no that was not the problem.
> 
> They denied warranty after purchase. In which the warranty never stated to not use it ( the coolant in question ) and after denying warranty, changed their warranty agreement. Again AFTER.
> 
> Then (I am loosely paraphrasing ) stated it was because several manufactures deny warranty for using it (and they named them ) one of which is Koolance ( which duh, it's Koolance your warranty is void cause you touched it, or because the paint chipped.... ) anywho most others (not all but all but 1 iirc) came forward and said.... um no? Now they the reps have completely disappeared from ocn and will not respond or help other users.
> 
> THAT is the problem.
> 
> You seem to think the world resolves around mayham. And it really doesn't to me, he does not affect my decision to not buy alphacool at all. I don't care. It is the lack of accountability and the lack of warranty, and the lack of cs that caused this.
> 
> You can't change your terms for warranty after purchase, sorry.


Did I say that Mayhems was specifically the problem?

Go back and read the thread lol, every single thing in the OP is tied to Mayhems, EVERY SINGLE LINE! Tell me again, it doesn't revolve around mayhem? To you it may not, and that's fine, to the OP the entire thread does lol.

The issue of the pump making noise, does matter, and that is a good reason as you say to not buy from them however that thread has evolved into nothing but Mayhem/Aquatuning drama.

As to the warranty change after the fact. Is that a reason to not buy Alphacool? If you say yes, then I hope you don't buy swiftech, or EK, or Koolance, or Asus, or Corsair, I could go on, to every single other company that has similar threads about it. They all do it, it would be easier to make a list of people who dont, as you wouldn't have very many names lol.

And to Deedaz, ya Mayhems is definitely not on the good CS or good RMA support list, not by a long shot.

Any way sorry for derail Gene, again you did ask though







.

That's the last I have to say about it, it has a thread talk there about it.


----------



## BoxGods

Everyone relax =)

I know how it feels as a tiny manufacturer to be caught on the receiving end of misinformation--take antimicrobial silver as a perfect example. We all used silver in our loops (like Kill Koils) for years and years without a single issue because nothing works better than pure DI for cooling. Then the $10 a liter fluids started hitting the market and turned out to be cash cows and the bigger companies started their smear campaigns against using silver.

It is and always will be about money. None of us really like that but it is what it is. The thing to remember is that "marketing" tends to thrive on conflict and how they accomplish that is to get us bickering with each other and "taking sides". The easiest way to give them the finger is to remember that that as water coolers and case modders we are all part of a larger community and we are not going to turn on each other.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> This sums it up pretty well. The problem with AT/alphacool is they don't care about their customers or the community, they're only after money. Mayhems and Monsoon are my favorite watercooling companies because they both care about and interact with the community, offering support and listening to suggestions.


Correct, There so called Support is a joke(I wouldn't even call it Support). There own bending tool doesn't even work with there own tubing & when called on it they said "It's Fine". They were even shown proof that the tubing walls were collapsing on it self & they just ignore it

----

Mayhem has been nothing but great for me. One of the bottle broke open during shipping & replaced it without any questions. I personally don't know what AlphaCool problem is & why the constantly go out of there way to attack Mayhem.

They even once told me if I use Mayhem Coolant (In BOLD TYPE) with there tubing (Just there Tubing) it voids the warranty.

----

WaterCool & MonSoon are both top watercooling companies when it comes to parts, Hardware Labs for Radiators & Mayhem for Coolant & there glass tubing. Mayhem actual checks all there glass tubing before shipping it out (Unlike another certain Company).


----------



## Ceadderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Everyone relax =)
> 
> I know how it feels as a tiny manufacturer to be caught on the receiving end of misinformation--take antimicrobial silver as a perfect example. We all used silver in our loops (like Kill Koils) for years and years without a single issue because nothing works better than pure DI for cooling. Then the $10 a liter fluids started hitting the market and turned out to be cash cows and the bigger companies started their smear campaigns against using silver.
> 
> It is and always will be about money. None of us really like that but it is what it is. The thing to remember is that "marketing" tends to thrive on conflict and how they accomplish that is to get us bickering with each other and "taking sides". The easiest way to give them the finger is to remember that that as water coolers and case modders we are all part of a larger community and we are not going to turn on each other.


Amen!









I will continue to take the tact of color tubing and tops (whenever possible) and sticking to what works. I'm not a dye guy. They look cool for a month or so, but in the end it's throwing $$ down a dark hole and causes strife in the community with the blame game.









~Ceaddwr


----------



## garyd9

I installed a new (and very good looking) MMRS reservoir with D5 top a couple days ago. It works fine with my EK D5 using the enclosed o-ring (though I wish the holes for the pump wires were a bit bigger to allow the power and PWM wires to go through the same hole.) The pump and 100mm res are installed on one of the vertical floor mount stands. It looks very nice. (Thanks, PPC for the pre-assembled "kit" via amazon.)

Tomorrow, a 100mm CCFL and inverter should show up to lighten things up a bit.

I asked this in a different thread a few days ago, but got no answer:

The way the MMRS system works with a D5 pump in a vertically oriented mount, there's only a water outlet on the bottom, forcing the inlet to be up top. If the reservoir isn't full, that can result in a lot of splashing noise. Some (most?) other pump/res combo's either have the water inlet nearer to the bottom, or have some type of mechanism to reduce the splashing noise (usually a tube going from the top inlet to near the bottom/middle of the res.)

Is anything like this available for the MMRS system? There doesn't seem to be enough threads on the caps to thread (and seal) a fitting to both sides (one for the inlet, another for a tube inside the res.)

Surely others have encountered this same issue, so I'm confident there's a solution that I just haven't found yet...

Oh, and while I'm posting, I have another question: For wall mounting (or horizontal floor mounting), MMRS has three sizes of mounts: 50mm, 25mm and the 12mm "grasshopper." Is there a 12mm option without the grasshopper legs? I'm considering the idea of doing a horizontal ceiling mount, but would want the res to be fairly close to the ceiling. In my particular case, the grasshopper mount wouldn't work...

Thanks
Gary

Edit: Added photo of the pump/res mounted. (The tubing is going to a single rad just to test the the pump top didn't leak.)


----------



## GraphicsWhore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Is anything like this available for the MMRS system? There doesn't seem to be enough threads on the caps to thread (and seal) a fitting to both sides (one for the inlet, another for a tube inside the res.)
> 
> Surely others have encountered this same issue, so I'm confident there's a solution that I just haven't found yet...
> 
> ]


This is what I used:

Bitspower Aqua Pipe II Fitting, Black Sparkle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017GM4B2C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IaGPzb9XB2902

I realized shortly after that you can get the pipe without fitting which I assume works the same:

Bitspower Aqua Pipe I Fitting, Black Sparkle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011ZCGZ2I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GdGPzb4SQ9PB3

Check my build thread for some close up pics of what it looks like. Does the job perfectly.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

I'm going to rebuild my system and I'm interested in using an MMRS system with dual D5 pumps.

I've seen some pictures but I'm having trouble visualizing the routing for the tubing. Has anyone done this? If you have a build log or pictures you can link that would be cool. If not any suggestions would be welcome.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> I'm going to rebuild my system and I'm interested in using an MMRS system with dual D5 pumps.


Both pumps attached to the same reservoir tube? Only one? Neither? I think it's fairly easy to visualize anything except the "both pumps attached to the same tube" scenario...

If you want two pumps attached to a single res, you'll HAVE to mount horizontally (or the uppermost pump will run dry) and the pumps will run in parallel. The MMRS pump tops that attach to the reservoir only allow intake from the res, so you'll actually have to use a coupler either directly against one of the D5 pump tops, or between two tubes, to have a water inlet. Each D5 would have it's own outlet. That would look something like:

D5 - tube - coupler - tube - D5.

I think there's also a fairly new thing that would allow attaching a couple directly to a pump top, so you might end up with:

D5 - coupler - tube - D5

In either case, each D5 has it's own outlet, and 1 or 2 inlets go into the coupler.

I'll google around and see if I can find a photo of the 2 pump build and link to it...

Edit: oops.. you've already seen photos of it. Nevermind. I guess I should have paid closer attention.

As for how you'd route the tubing, that would depend on if you wanted two loops sharing the same res, or not. If not, I'd guess you could use some type of T fitting to join the two pump outlets together, and only use a single inlet on the coupler.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Thanks for the input. I have 2 pumps and was looking to retain the redundancy. Sounds like I should stick with the EK dual pump top that I have and look at mounting the res separately or to the pump top where it is now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Both pumps attached to the same reservoir tube? Only one? Neither? I think it's fairly easy to visualize anything except the "both pumps attached to the same tube" scenario...
> 
> If you want two pumps attached to a single res, you'll HAVE to mount horizontally (or the uppermost pump will run dry) and the pumps will run in parallel. The MMRS pump tops that attach to the reservoir only allow intake from the res, so you'll actually have to use a coupler either directly against one of the D5 pump tops, or between two tubes, to have a water inlet. Each D5 would have it's own outlet. That would look something like:
> 
> D5 - tube - coupler - tube - D5.
> 
> I think there's also a fairly new thing that would allow attaching a couple directly to a pump top, so you might end up with:
> 
> D5 - coupler - tube - D5
> 
> In either case, each D5 has it's own outlet, and 1 or 2 inlets go into the coupler.
> 
> I'll google around and see if I can find a photo of the 2 pump build and link to it...
> 
> Edit: oops.. you've already seen photos of it. Nevermind. I guess I should have paid closer attention.
> 
> As for how you'd route the tubing, that would depend on if you wanted two loops sharing the same res, or not. If not, I'd guess you could use some type of T fitting to join the two pump outlets together, and only use a single inlet on the coupler.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> Thanks for the input. I have 2 pumps and was looking to retain the redundancy. Sounds like I should stick with the EK dual pump top that I have and look at mounting the res separately or to the pump top where it is now.


Another alternative would be to use a MMRS pump/res and then a second stand-alone MMRS pump top in series. It would be more complex than the EK dual top, and require more tubing, but the monsoon MMRS stuff just looks so pretty. Especially when compared to the EK "any color you like as long as you like black" dual top (in my opinion, of course.)

It might be neat if EK made an acrylic dual pump top (with little holes for LEDs), but I somehow doubt that will happen. Probably not enough market for it.

Speaking of monsoon, it seems that @BoxGods has gone silent in this thread (and forum.) I don't see any activity from that account for over a month. I hope everything is going well.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

That's not a bad idea either.

I agree that the MMRS stuff is really nice looking compared to the standard pump top / tube reservoirs. I'll let you know how it turns out.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Another alternative would be to use a MMRS pump/res and then a second stand-alone MMRS pump top in series. It would be more complex than the EK dual top, and require more tubing, but the monsoon MMRS stuff just looks so pretty. Especially when compared to the EK "any color you like as long as you like black" dual top (in my opinion, of course.)
> 
> It might be neat if EK made an acrylic dual pump top (with little holes for LEDs), but I somehow doubt that will happen. Probably not enough market for it.
> 
> Speaking of monsoon, it seems that @BoxGods has gone silent in this thread (and forum.) I don't see any activity from that account for over a month. I hope everything is going well.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Both pumps attached to the same reservoir tube? Only one? Neither? I think it's fairly easy to visualize anything except the "both pumps attached to the same tube" scenario...
> 
> If you want two pumps attached to a single res, you'll HAVE to mount horizontally (or the uppermost pump will run dry) and the pumps will run in parallel. The MMRS pump tops that attach to the reservoir only allow intake from the res, so you'll actually have to use a coupler either directly against one of the D5 pump tops, or between two tubes, to have a water inlet. Each D5 would have it's own outlet. That would look something like:
> 
> D5 - tube - coupler - tube - D5.
> 
> I think there's also a fairly new thing that would allow attaching a couple directly to a pump top, so you might end up with:
> 
> D5 - coupler - tube - D5
> 
> In either case, each D5 has it's own outlet, and 1 or 2 inlets go into the coupler.
> 
> I'll google around and see if I can find a photo of the 2 pump build and link to it...
> 
> Edit: oops.. you've already seen photos of it. Nevermind. I guess I should have paid closer attention.
> 
> As for how you'd route the tubing, that would depend on if you wanted two loops sharing the same res, or not. If not, I'd guess you could use some type of T fitting to join the two pump outlets together, and only use a single inlet on the coupler.


This is a mostly correct answer--all you left out is that the mating kit would permit one tube that is divided into two discrete compartments if the user wants to do that, or that one or more mating kits could be used to get inlet ports right next to the D5 pump end cap...again if the users build required that.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Another alternative would be to use a MMRS pump/res and then a second stand-alone MMRS pump top in series. It would be more complex than the EK dual top, and require more tubing, but the monsoon MMRS stuff just looks so pretty. Especially when compared to the EK "any color you like as long as you like black" dual top (in my opinion, of course.)
> 
> It might be neat if EK made an acrylic dual pump top (with little holes for LEDs), but I somehow doubt that will happen. Probably not enough market for it.
> 
> Speaking of monsoon, it seems that @BoxGods has gone silent in this thread (and forum.) I don't see any activity from that account for over a month. I hope everything is going well.


Sorry for my absence. My mother is in her 80's and had a health scare--I got that horrible call from my Pops that they were moving her to the cardiac unit and I better get on a flight ASAP. The good news is that a month later she is home now and doing amazing--as cranky as ever. I would have answered from her house but I could not remember my PW lol.

Then Harvey caused a little bit of concern (we are in South Texas) but thankfully we threaded the needle and all the preparations were for naught as we got almost no wind and only a days worth of rains.

So still here guys =)


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The good news is that a month later she is home now and doing amazing--as cranky as ever. I would have answered from her house but I could not remember my PW lol.
> 
> Then Harvey caused a little bit of concern (we are in South Texas) but thankfully we threaded the needle and all the preparations were for naught as we got almost no wind and only a days worth of rains.


Glad that all is well with you and yours.

A quick question for you: There's a 12mm "grasshopper" mounting bracket, and 25mm and 50mm brackets that aren't in the grasshopper format. Are there any 12mm brackets that are NOT "grasshopper" available for sale?

(It appears that you provide something like that with the vertical stand, but only one and I can't find them individually.)

Also, in case anyone searches for it (as I had many times unsuccessfully, so I'm including as many keywords as I can), the thread type of the screws for the MMRS mounting is M4. (I needed to mount the vertical stand on a 1/4" thick floor, and the included screws were too short.)

Thanks
Gary


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Glad that all is well with you and yours.
> 
> A quick question for you: There's a 12mm "grasshopper" mounting bracket, and 25mm and 50mm brackets that aren't in the grasshopper format. Are there any 12mm brackets that are NOT "grasshopper" available for sale?
> 
> (It appears that you provide something like that with the vertical stand, but only one and I can't find them individually.)
> 
> Also, in case anyone searches for it (as I had many times unsuccessfully, so I'm including as many keywords as I can), the thread type of the screws for the MMRS mounting is M4. (I needed to mount the vertical stand on a 1/4" thick floor, and the included screws were too short.)
> 
> Thanks
> Gary


We do package the 12mm mounts as a stand alone product but not every re-seller stocks them.


----------



## garyd9

I have a blue monsoon CCFL going into my res, fed by the monsoon 2 bulb inveter. I see that there's a slot on the inverter for some kind of toggle switch. How does that work? If the circuit is closed then it turns OFF the CCFL? Does it turn them both off? What kind of power is it putting into that toggle switch jack?

If the two CCFL jacks can't be controlled with that switch independently, what kind of voltage/amperage is moving through the power leads to the actual CCFL?

My reason for asking all the questions iis that I'm thinking of getting a second CCFL, but in the red color. I'd have both a red and a blue CCFL installed, but use a relay to control which one was lit at any given moment. The relay would be controlled with a small arduino board that reads the water temps via thermistor. Normally, the blue CCFL would be lit, but if the water is warming up, it'd switch to the red CCFL...

Ideally, I'd prefer to use the dedicated switch jack on the inverter to control which CCFL is lit (so I wouldn't have to splice the actual CCFL wires and deal with the high voltage.)

Thanks in advance
Gary


----------



## Eusbwoa18

First of all, forgive my artwork.



But is this essentially what you are describing?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> This is a mostly correct answer--all you left out is that the mating kit would permit one tube that is divided into two discrete compartments if the user wants to do that, or that one or more mating kits could be used to get inlet ports right next to the D5 pump end cap...again if the users build required that.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I have a blue monsoon CCFL going into my res, fed by the monsoon 2 bulb inveter. I see that there's a slot on the inverter for some kind of toggle switch. How does that work? If the circuit is closed then it turns OFF the CCFL? Does it turn them both off? What kind of power is it putting into that toggle switch jack?
> 
> If the two CCFL jacks can't be controlled with that switch independently, what kind of voltage/amperage is moving through the power leads to the actual CCFL?
> 
> My reason for asking all the questions iis that I'm thinking of getting a second CCFL, but in the red color. I'd have both a red and a blue CCFL installed, but use a relay to control which one was lit at any given moment. The relay would be controlled with a small arduino board that reads the water temps via thermistor. Normally, the blue CCFL would be lit, but if the water is warming up, it'd switch to the red CCFL...
> 
> Ideally, I'd prefer to use the dedicated switch jack on the inverter to control which CCFL is lit (so I wouldn't have to splice the actual CCFL wires and deal with the high voltage.)
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Gary


This one is above my pay grade...hopefully one of the arduino guys in here can advise you.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> First of all, forgive my artwork.
> 
> 
> 
> But is this essentially what you are describing?


That is one (of many) options. The mate kit can be a divider or a sort of...joiner for want of a better word. You could also put one of the couplers right up against the D5 end cap if you wanted the ports on that end.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> This one is above my pay grade...hopefully one of the arduino guys in here can advise you.


Not really. I did some checking and the answer to my question would have been answered if I'd bothered to use my eyeballs before asking: It's not really even a switch. It's a jumper, likely at the 12v line (before the voltage conversion) and it controls all the inverter jacks.

So... Let me ask this: What kind of voltage/amperage do your CCFL's pull? A google search suggest s up to around 3,000 volts (at extremely low amperage.)

I'm not accustomed to using very high voltage, and I have a great respect for electricity. It's shocking what it can do to you.







It might actually be easier/cheaper (less risky) for me to use two inverters (one for each CCFL) and take advantage of the on/off jumper you already have in there.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Not really. I did some checking and the answer to my question would have been answered if I'd bothered to use my eyeballs before asking: It's not really even a switch. It's a jumper, likely at the 12v line (before the voltage conversion) and it controls all the inverter jacks.
> 
> So... Let me ask this: What kind of voltage/amperage do your CCFL's pull? A google search suggest s up to around 3,000 volts (at extremely low amperage.)
> 
> I'm not accustomed to using very high voltage, and I have a great respect for electricity. It's shocking what it can do to you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It might actually be easier/cheaper (less risky) for me to use two inverters (one for each CCFL) and take advantage of the on/off jumper you already have in there.


I see what you did there =)

They come in a 4 bulb version also but that would defeat your purpose of course.


----------



## garyd9

A quick product idea:

Reservoir tubes are currently clear, frosted, or "warp core." The completely frosted looks really nice with a CCFL inside (as it defuses the light very nicely.) However, it also makes it difficult to see the water level.

Clear (and to some extent the "warp core") lets the vertical bright CCFL be seen with no diffusion... but it's easy to see the water level.

What might be nice is a frosted tube that has just a thin (2-5 mm) vertical strip that is un-frosted (clear.) That would allow seeing the water level through the thin unfrosted area... but that unfrosted strip could be normally positioned so that it's not visible.

Take care
Gary


----------



## Radnad

Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!


Looks good, did you make a build log for that? I need to see more pics of that camo mod


----------



## Eusbwoa18

It looks like that pump is mounted at a 45 degree angle. How did you support that? It looks great!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> What might be nice is a frosted tube that has just a thin (2-5 mm) vertical strip that is un-frosted (clear.) That would allow seeing the water level through the thin unfrosted area... but that unfrosted strip could be normally positioned so that it's not visible.


On second thought (and after installing a completely frosted tube,) this probably isn't needed. I can see the water level through the frosting well enough if I have a CCFL inside the res (or I shine a light at the res.)

However, it leads me to a question I think I asked a few months ago: LED strips inside the reservoir instead of CCFL's. I know that most strips available today use 5050 LEDs which would be too wide. However, there's a fairly new product (difficult to find right now, but should be spreading) that uses AP102 2020 LED's. The strips are about half as wide as the currently available strips, and I think they'd fit inside the tube used for the CCFL (if the opening was larger.)

AP102's are fully and individually addressable. Try to imagine the effects possible with a dense strip of them (144/meter) diffused inside a frosted reservoir tube. Clear water in a clear frosted tube could suddenly be any color you wanted, or could take on various effects with moving colors. Monsoon could even sell optional controllers for the LED's (for those not wanting to wire some on their own.)

Oh, and I love this MMRS system. Even if I can't talk you into introducing a new product, I can always buy various parts to try the idea out on my own.

Edit: Just to better "explain", I taped a strip of addressable LED's inside my "warp core" (or whatever it's called) tube and made a very quick video through the frosted area. (You can see the reflection of the strip in the clear areas of the res, but my intention would be to have this in a fully frosted tube.) This is just a "rainbow" sequence of colors which is kind of boring compared to what can really be done:






Take care
Gary

Edit II: I found the company in Taiwan (or China?) that makes those 2020 LED's. Mounted on strips, they are 4mm wide and 1mm tall (2mm tall for water proof.) What is the diameter of the Monsoon MMRS CCFL tube? If it's 4mm or less, I should be able to shove one of these strips into the outer tube used to keep the CCFL's dry. Otherwise, I might be able to cobble together some fittings and a piece of PETG or acrylic tubing to at least prove the concept.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> On second thought (and after installing a completely frosted tube,) this probably isn't needed. I can see the water level through the frosting well enough if I have a CCFL inside the res (or I shine a light at the res.)
> 
> However, it leads me to a question I think I asked a few months ago: LED strips inside the reservoir instead of CCFL's. I know that most strips available today use 5050 LEDs which would be too wide. However, there's a fairly new product (difficult to find right now, but should be spreading) that uses AP102 2020 LED's. The strips are about half as wide as the currently available strips, and I think they'd fit inside the tube used for the CCFL (if the opening was larger.)
> 
> AP102's are fully and individually addressable. Try to imagine the effects possible with a dense strip of them (144/meter) diffused inside a frosted reservoir tube. Clear water in a clear frosted tube could suddenly be any color you wanted, or could take on various effects with moving colors. Monsoon could even sell optional controllers for the LED's (for those not wanting to wire some on their own.)
> 
> Oh, and I love this MMRS system. Even if I can't talk you into introducing a new product, I can always buy various parts to try the idea out on my own.
> 
> Edit: Just to better "explain", I taped a strip of addressable LED's inside my "warp core" (or whatever it's called) tube and made a very quick video through the frosted area. (You can see the reflection of the strip in the clear areas of the res, but my intention would be to have this in a fully frosted tube.) This is just a "rainbow" sequence of colors which is kind of boring compared to what can really be done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take care
> Gary
> 
> Edit II: I found the company in Taiwan (or China?) that makes those 2020 LED's. Mounted on strips, they are 4mm wide and 1mm tall (2mm tall for water proof.) What is the diameter of the Monsoon MMRS CCFL tube? If it's 4mm or less, I should be able to shove one of these strips into the outer tube used to keep the CCFL's dry. Otherwise, I might be able to cobble together some fittings and a piece of PETG or acrylic tubing to at least prove the concept.


You can mount them outside the reservoir and get the same effect. I have 2 strips of 144/m density leds mounted on the back. I just taped them in out of laziness but it shouldn't be too hard to build something that attaches to the mounting points in the back which can hold a led extrusion up next to the reservoir tube.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> A quick product idea:
> 
> Reservoir tubes are currently clear, frosted, or "warp core." The completely frosted looks really nice with a CCFL inside (as it defuses the light very nicely.) However, it also makes it difficult to see the water level.
> 
> Clear (and to some extent the "warp core") lets the vertical bright CCFL be seen with no diffusion... but it's easy to see the water level.
> 
> What might be nice is a frosted tube that has just a thin (2-5 mm) vertical strip that is un-frosted (clear.) That would allow seeing the water level through the thin unfrosted area... but that unfrosted strip could be normally positioned so that it's not visible.
> 
> Take care
> Gary


Not a bad idea...though I think the water level is pretty visible already in the frosted. Will have to do a little experimenting and see.

Thanks for taking the time to post your idea =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!


I love LOVE that yellow.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> On second thought (and after installing a completely frosted tube,) this probably isn't needed. I can see the water level through the frosting well enough if I have a CCFL inside the res (or I shine a light at the res.)
> 
> However, it leads me to a question I think I asked a few months ago: LED strips inside the reservoir instead of CCFL's. I know that most strips available today use 5050 LEDs which would be too wide. However, there's a fairly new product (difficult to find right now, but should be spreading) that uses AP102 2020 LED's. The strips are about half as wide as the currently available strips, and I think they'd fit inside the tube used for the CCFL (if the opening was larger.)
> 
> AP102's are fully and individually addressable. Try to imagine the effects possible with a dense strip of them (144/meter) diffused inside a frosted reservoir tube. Clear water in a clear frosted tube could suddenly be any color you wanted, or could take on various effects with moving colors. Monsoon could even sell optional controllers for the LED's (for those not wanting to wire some on their own.)
> 
> Oh, and I love this MMRS system. Even if I can't talk you into introducing a new product, I can always buy various parts to try the idea out on my own.
> 
> Edit: Just to better "explain", I taped a strip of addressable LED's inside my "warp core" (or whatever it's called) tube and made a very quick video through the frosted area. (You can see the reflection of the strip in the clear areas of the res, but my intention would be to have this in a fully frosted tube.) This is just a "rainbow" sequence of colors which is kind of boring compared to what can really be done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take care
> Gary
> 
> Edit II: I found the company in Taiwan (or China?) that makes those 2020 LED's. Mounted on strips, they are 4mm wide and 1mm tall (2mm tall for water proof.) What is the diameter of the Monsoon MMRS CCFL tube? If it's 4mm or less, I should be able to shove one of these strips into the outer tube used to keep the CCFL's dry. Otherwise, I might be able to cobble together some fittings and a piece of PETG or acrylic tubing to at least prove the concept.


I could easily add LED plugs to the product line--the issue is what to control those awesome addressable LED's. Most people are not going to be comfortable using an arudriono or similar and writing their own code. That does look amazing, and the ability to use color as a visual temp indicator is something we could all get behind of course.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> I could easily add LED plugs to the product line--the issue is what to control those awesome addressable LED's. Most people are not going to be comfortable using an arudriono or similar and writing their own code. That does look amazing, and the ability to use color as a visual temp indicator is something we could all get behind of course.


I think the first question would be what the inside diameter of CCFL acrylic "lense" is. It's possible that a thicker (and much easier to source) LED could fit in there. I'm only able to find the AP102 2020 _strips_ from a single source in Taiwan (or China?) and they want an arm and the leg to ship to the US. (A single 1 meter spool is 38 USD for the spool and an additional 35 USD shipping.) There are also 3535's that might still be able to fit.

As for controllers, you have a valid point. What if the MMRS system included some type of generic water tight clear tube (similar to the CCFL "lens" for the black/UV CCFL) with a much larger opening? That would give people the chance to shove whatever they want in there (assuming it fit.) For most, it might only be an LED strip controlled by their motherboard. For others, they might purchase a dedicated controller (or even build their own.)

I just don't know if the profit margin exists for that type of thing. I know _I_ would buy a couple, but I can't speak for anyone else. If this "tube" used the same (or mostly the same) parts as the CCFL tube, I think it'd lower production costs so that only the end (threaded) part would be needed (which is why I keep asking about that inside diameter.)

For the person suggesting I just tape it to the back: Yes, I can do that. In fact, I did almost exactly that in a previous build. I could also use the MMRS rear mounted CCFL double tubes instead of inserting a tube inside my res. However, that isn't the effect I'm trying to create. As well, my current case is glass panels on both sides, so the "rear" of my res is visible and that'd just look bad.


----------



## BoxGods

The diameter of the tube is dictated by the G 1/4 opening in the reservoir--and we are already maxed out.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The diameter of the tube is dictated by the G 1/4 opening in the reservoir--and we are already maxed out.


On the other hand, unless you reveal the information, the only way I'd have to figure it out what the ID is would be to break apart one of the CCFL-PLG assemblies... (and I really don't have any spares.)

If you were to tell me it's 1mm, then I'd stop thinking about shoving LEDs in there. If you were to say it's 5mm, then there'd be some hope of using your existing CCFL-PLG tube.

Again, will you tell me what the inner diameter of the CCFL-PLG outer "lens" tube is? Please? Pretty please?








If you tell me, I promise to keep buying Monsoon products. (Well, I probably would anyway.)

Thanks
Gary


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> For the person suggesting I just tape it to the back: Yes, I can do that. In fact, I did almost exactly that in a previous build. I could also use the MMRS rear mounted CCFL double tubes instead of inserting a tube inside my res. However, that isn't the effect I'm trying to create. As well, my current case is glass panels on both sides, so the "rear" of my res is visible and that'd just look bad.


I don't see how the effect is any different other than wanting to see it from other angles. My strips are 144/m density Neopixels so I can do those effects if I actually code it to, unless I'm completely misunderstanding you. One issue I do see is having shadows in there since the leds are directional. You'd have to shove two strips (back-to-back) in there for the backside to look as good as the front.

My case actually has glass side panels on both sides as well, but I can't really see the backside of my case where I have it. I'm also considering changing it to solid because I really don't want to look back there anyways. All the custom wiring I've done on my fans and the two arduinos don't make it look good.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The diameter of the tube is dictated by the G 1/4 opening in the reservoir--and we are already maxed out.
> 
> 
> 
> On the other hand, unless you reveal the information, the only way I'd have to figure it out what the ID is would be to break apart one of the CCFL-PLG assemblies... (and I really don't have any spares.)
> 
> If you were to tell me it's 1mm, then I'd stop thinking about shoving LEDs in there. If you were to say it's 5mm, then there'd be some hope of using your existing CCFL-PLG tube.
> 
> Again, will you tell me what the inner diameter of the CCFL-PLG outer "lens" tube is? Please? Pretty please?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you tell me, I promise to keep buying Monsoon products. (Well, I probably would anyway.)
> 
> Thanks
> Gary
Click to expand...

If you measure the opening where the cfl tube slides in, its about 4.5mm. I don't have a caliper or anything so that is really just my best estimate with what I had to measure.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> On the other hand, unless you reveal the information, the only way I'd have to figure it out what the ID is would be to break apart one of the CCFL-PLG assemblies... (and I really don't have any spares.)
> 
> If you were to tell me it's 1mm, then I'd stop thinking about shoving LEDs in there. If you were to say it's 5mm, then there'd be some hope of using your existing CCFL-PLG tube.
> 
> Again, will you tell me what the inner diameter of the CCFL-PLG outer "lens" tube is? Please? Pretty please?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you tell me, I promise to keep buying Monsoon products. (Well, I probably would anyway.)
> 
> Thanks
> Gary


Not like it is a secrete...I have posted the dimensions many times...and the product page for the plugs at most re-sellers includes a dimension chart =)

I am not at my workstation but if memory serves, the ID is 5mm and the wall is the minimum you can safely use--1.5mm I believe. That is 8mm so far. A G 1/4 hole has about 11mm of usable diameter. So you have 1.5mm of wall in the brass plug to fit the O-ring seals and threads etc.

Like I said--a 5mm ID is about the maximum you can *safely* get by with on a consumer level product submerged in water.

Also, as I mentioned before, putting LED's into the tube is not even a tiny issue--I could have that product ready in a week--it is how to drive the controllable LED's. Maybe 1 customer in 500 would want to spend the time and effort installing and programming an arduino. I have worked with two other companies that were all set to release "killer" LED controllers for PC use...and both ended up abandoning their projects because they felt the market just was not big enough to make it a profitable product.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Not like it is a secrete...I have posted the dimensions many times...and the product page for the plugs at most re-sellers includes a dimension chart =)


My apologies, then. I searched and the closest I was able to find was something that referred to the *outer* dimension of the acrylic colored piece that the CCFL inserts into as being 6mm. (Nothing I found mentioned the ID of that tube.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Also, as I mentioned before, putting LED's into the tube is not even a tiny issue--I could have that product ready in a week--it is how to drive the controllable LED's. Maybe 1 customer in 500 would want to spend the time and effort installing and programming an arduino. I have worked with two other companies that were all set to release "killer" LED controllers for PC use...and both ended up abandoning their projects because they felt the market just was not big enough to make it a profitable product.


This I can understand, which is why I was considering the alternative of trying to repurpose the outer tube that comes with the existing CCFL product. It appears it'll require thinner LED's than I currently have access to. At the moment, getting those 2020 sized AP102 strips is just too expensive for me. (In USD: 38 for a 1m strip + 40 shipping/processing.)

As for general public (who doesn't want to make their own controller), I considered the possibility of using a off the shelf controller (even a mass market one such as Corsair's "lighting pro" thing), but most of those only control WS2811 LED's, and I haven't seen even a hint of them coming in the thinner form factor that would be needed to fit into the EXISTING tube's made for the CCFL inserts.

Something could still be done (not by Monsoon or even mass market) by individual people by cutting a piece of 16 OD acrylic tubing with a big enough ID for a LED strip (12mm is fine)... then plugging one end and putting a standard compression fitting on the other. Insert the LED strip into that with the wires coming out of the compression fitting. The compression fitting would screw up to the INSIDE of the MMRS cap with the wires sticking up through the cap. (That handles the functional, but not cosmetic, requirements.) If the ID of the acrylic tube is large enough for the LED strip width, two strips can be inserted facing away from each other (and with a thin insulating layer between them to prevent shorts) to allow LED light to emit from both directions and prevent shadows.

(No, I don't know the best way to plug the end of the acrylic tube. In theory, a small flat circular piece of acrylic could be cut with a diameter matching the diameter of the tube, and then be chemically welded (acrylic solvent) to the tube.)

It's not a complicated problem. I was just trying to see what might be doable using the tubes that are sold with the CCFL's. That would be a more cosmetically appealing solution than having a compression fitting shoved up inside the cap and having loose wires sticking outside the top of the res without the pretty plug piece that the CCFL uses.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> My apologies, then. I searched and the closest I was able to find was something that referred to the *outer* dimension of the acrylic colored piece that the CCFL inserts into as being 6mm. (Nothing I found mentioned the ID of that tube.)
> This I can understand, which is why I was considering the alternative of trying to repurpose the outer tube that comes with the existing CCFL product. It appears it'll require thinner LED's than I currently have access to. At the moment, getting those 2020 sized AP102 strips is just too expensive for me. (In USD: 38 for a 1m strip + 40 shipping/processing.)
> 
> As for general public (who doesn't want to make their own controller), I considered the possibility of using a off the shelf controller (even a mass market one such as Corsair's "lighting pro" thing), but most of those only control WS2811 LED's, and I haven't seen even a hint of them coming in the thinner form factor that would be needed to fit into the EXISTING tube's made for the CCFL inserts.
> 
> Something could still be done (not by Monsoon or even mass market) by individual people by cutting a piece of 16 OD acrylic tubing with a big enough ID for a LED strip (12mm is fine)... then plugging one end and putting a standard compression fitting on the other. Insert the LED strip into that with the wires coming out of the compression fitting. The compression fitting would screw up to the INSIDE of the MMRS cap with the wires sticking up through the cap. (That handles the functional, but not cosmetic, requirements.) If the ID of the acrylic tube is large enough for the LED strip width, two strips can be inserted facing away from each other (and with a thin insulating layer between them to prevent shorts) to allow LED light to emit from both directions and prevent shadows.
> 
> (No, I don't know the best way to plug the end of the acrylic tube. In theory, a small flat circular piece of acrylic could be cut with a diameter matching the diameter of the tube, and then be chemically welded (acrylic solvent) to the tube.)
> 
> It's not a complicated problem. I was just trying to see what might be doable using the tubes that are sold with the CCFL's. That would be a more cosmetically appealing solution than having a compression fitting shoved up inside the cap and having loose wires sticking outside the top of the res without the pretty plug piece that the CCFL uses.


You should avoid acrylic for the tube if you can as it is prone to cracking--and much more so in the smaller diameter tubes. PETG would not do well with the heat. Your best bet is polycarbonate. Some sort of adhesive would work for a while but if at all possible welding the cap on the end of the tube is your best bet. I would love to make these and I think they would sell well enough to at least break even if there was a decent controller for them--therein lies the rub. I could easily manufacture the LED plugs and even the controller itself if I had a clue how to design the thing. It is a lot harder (and more expensive) to bring a product to market than people think. It is one thing to think something will sell. It is another to risk a month and $30,000 or more on it =)


----------



## Mega Man

what about a tube that threads into the hole with g1/4 fitting, that is hollow and open in the middle?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what about a tube that threads into the hole with g1/4 fitting, that is hollow and open in the middle?


That is essentially how our CCFL plugs work already. As I said making the tube part is easy...it is driving the LED's that causes problems as a consumer product.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good, did you make a build log for that? I need to see more pics of that camo mod
Click to expand...

TY! No build log, I find them overly bloated these days. I wrapped part of the PSU cover and a piece of acrylic to cover the ugly back wall. In person it makes the res look almost like its free floating.




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> It looks like that pump is mounted at a 45 degree angle. How did you support that? It looks great!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

TY! 3D printed a pump mount base. It came out great imo! This was one of the prototypes. The final version covered the entire top and was black of course.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Redid my MMRS with my vert gpu upgrade, couldn't be more happy with the outcome! After over a year released and all the other reservoirs released since then MMRS is still my favorite and I recommend it every chance I get!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love LOVE that yellow.
Click to expand...

TYVM!


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what about a tube that threads into the hole with g1/4 fitting, that is hollow and open in the middle?


Yes, that's would work. Can you kindly point me to where I' could find something like that for sale? (It's what I described making myself above with 16/12 hard tube, etc.)

Only one issue: I'd need to be able to get to the actual transparent tube before any fitting was added so I can insert the LED strips. Honestly, the tubes used with the MMRS CCFL's bulbs are great, but I have no way to shove the LED inside the tube (the LED strips are wider than the CCFL tube. Unless that inner plug can be removed? I never actually tried that...)


----------



## Mega Man

No idea, it was my suggestion to box gods make an empty tube wee could fill with what we want, we dont need you to make controller, let us use the leds, cfl. or addressable leds we want.


----------



## Deedaz

@BoxGods Did you change your name/logo?


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> @BoxGods Did you change your name/logo?


Shipped and sold by FastMedia (Looks like AMI Ventures Inc. out of Richmond, Texas). Love their prices, for example MMRS-SP-1P is only $28.69 - PPCS has it for $8.95. Also like that 8-17 days for shipping - probably has no stock and buys elsewhere.


----------



## garyd9

I finally was able to get some of those AP102-2020 LED's ordered! They are going to offer a special challange to me, as there are 4 solder pads in the space of 4mm that I need to attach wires to (and I suck with soldering.) So, I've also ordered a hot air soldering tool (different than a heat gun for bending tubes) and some solder paste. (It'll be at least a week, probably closer to two before the LED's are delivered.)

I'm going to try and put this together with mostly just monsoon products, but without bugging @BoxGods much more. Hopefully he'll tolerate a few more technical questions from me:

1. With the CCFL products designed to be inserted into MMRS reservoirs, what colors have CLEAR outer tubes? (My blue one has a white CCFL in a blue tube... I need to find a clear tube..)

2. Can you tell me the exact model thermistor you're using for the "Monsoon Premium G 1 / 4 Temperature Plug"? Using that information, I should be able to look up the resistance/temperature mappings for that particular thermistor. I know it's 10k @25, but even for approximate measurements beyond "25C", I need to at least know the beta coefficient value.

To start, I just want to get a "double sided" 4mm wide LED strip inside the CCFL lens tube (even if I have to drill open the hole in the plug a bit.) Then, I'll have the LEDs react to water temperature changes. I was thinking of something along the lines of using color temperatures vaguely mapped to water temps. So, ~23C would be pure blue, and ~37C would be pure red. Temps between 23 and 37 would map to blues, greens, yellows, and reds. (Writing the software for this is actually very easy.) (I chose 23C as it's considered the "average" room temperature based on my quick google search. Ideally, that base number would be measured from another thermistor or at least software controllable.)

I can expand on this by animating the colors somewhat to give a motion effect that I think would look extremely cool with a clear frosted res.

Eventually, if I can find the right part, I'd also like to have it reacting to the water level in the res. If the res isn't full, only the "lower" half of the LED's would be lit. (This isn't easy: electronic water sensors are failure prone, float sensors are mechanical parts that don't last very long, and that only leaves expensive optical-type sensors.)

If I'm able to accomplish this (and the hardest part I envision is getting the LED strip into the CCFL lens), I'll be happy to share the code and assembly instructions with others.

On the other hand, if I can't accomplish this, I'll have fun trying.


----------



## garyd9

While waiting for the new LED's to show up, I ordered a MMRS 100mm "black" CCFL. I can confirm that the outer "lens" on that tube is clear. The opening is about 5mm, which should suffice for the 4mm wide LED strips.

I've also started playing around with some of the animations I'd like to do. With a 100mm res, I'll only be able to fit in a string of 20 LED's (perhaps 19), so it's kind of limiting. I'm mocking things up using normal size LED's and a piece of paper to diffuse as a frosted reservoir tube might. Here's my 100mm vision of the water temperature being too high:




If you saw that inside your reservoir, would you feel compelled to check your temps?









Oh, and here's what it looks like defused inside a reservoir (or at least this should give an idea... )


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No idea, it was my suggestion to box gods make an empty tube wee could fill with what we want, we dont need you to make controller, let us use the leds, cfl. or addressable leds we want.


You can already do that...unscrew the cap, slide the CCFL out...put whatever you want in there, put the cap back on.

The opening in the plug body is the same diameter as the ID of the tube.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> @BoxGods Did you change your name/logo?


No...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> Shipped and sold by FastMedia (Looks like AMI Ventures Inc. out of Richmond, Texas). Love their prices, for example MMRS-SP-1P is only $28.69 - PPCS has it for $8.95. Also like that 8-17 days for shipping - probably has no stock and buys elsewhere.


What are you guys talking about?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> Shipped and sold by FastMedia (Looks like AMI Ventures Inc. out of Richmond, Texas). Love their prices, for example MMRS-SP-1P is only $28.69 - PPCS has it for $8.95. Also like that 8-17 days for shipping - probably has no stock and buys elsewhere.
> 
> 
> 
> What are you guys talking about?
Click to expand...

Check the link in my post. Has the wrong monsoon logo on your stuff.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> I finally was able to get some of those AP102-2020 LED's ordered! They are going to offer a special challange to me, as there are 4 solder pads in the space of 4mm that I need to attach wires to (and I suck with soldering.) So, I've also ordered a hot air soldering tool (different than a heat gun for bending tubes) and some solder paste. (It'll be at least a week, probably closer to two before the LED's are delivered.)
> 
> I'm going to try and put this together with mostly just monsoon products, but without bugging @BoxGods much more. Hopefully he'll tolerate a few more technical questions from me:
> 
> 1. With the CCFL products designed to be inserted into MMRS reservoirs, what colors have CLEAR outer tubes? (My blue one has a white CCFL in a blue tube... I need to find a clear tube..)
> 
> 2. Can you tell me the exact model thermistor you're using for the "Monsoon Premium G 1 / 4 Temperature Plug"? Using that information, I should be able to look up the resistance/temperature mappings for that particular thermistor. I know it's 10k @25, but even for approximate measurements beyond "25C", I need to at least know the beta coefficient value.
> 
> To start, I just want to get a "double sided" 4mm wide LED strip inside the CCFL lens tube (even if I have to drill open the hole in the plug a bit.) Then, I'll have the LEDs react to water temperature changes. I was thinking of something along the lines of using color temperatures vaguely mapped to water temps. So, ~23C would be pure blue, and ~37C would be pure red. Temps between 23 and 37 would map to blues, greens, yellows, and reds. (Writing the software for this is actually very easy.) (I chose 23C as it's considered the "average" room temperature based on my quick google search. Ideally, that base number would be measured from another thermistor or at least software controllable.)
> 
> I can expand on this by animating the colors somewhat to give a motion effect that I think would look extremely cool with a clear frosted res.
> 
> Eventually, if I can find the right part, I'd also like to have it reacting to the water level in the res. If the res isn't full, only the "lower" half of the LED's would be lit. (This isn't easy: electronic water sensors are failure prone, float sensors are mechanical parts that don't last very long, and that only leaves expensive optical-type sensors.)
> 
> If I'm able to accomplish this (and the hardest part I envision is getting the LED strip into the CCFL lens), I'll be happy to share the code and assembly instructions with others.
> 
> On the other hand, if I can't accomplish this, I'll have fun trying.


Never a bother man.

1. The UV has a clear tube.
2. No idea...it will be a generic unit that meets the spec--aka a Chinese part number. I can check if there is a "compares to" number listed.

The opening should already be 5mm


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> While waiting for the new LED's to show up, I ordered a MMRS 100mm "black" CCFL. I can confirm that the outer "lens" on that tube is clear. The opening is about 5mm, which should suffice for the 4mm wide LED strips.
> 
> I've also started playing around with some of the animations I'd like to do. With a 100mm res, I'll only be able to fit in a string of 20 LED's (perhaps 19), so it's kind of limiting. I'm mocking things up using normal size LED's and a piece of paper to diffuse as a frosted reservoir tube might. Here's my 100mm vision of the water temperature being too high:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you saw that inside your reservoir, would you feel compelled to check your temps?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and here's what it looks like defused inside a reservoir (or at least this should give an idea... )


The white LED tubes might give you better diffusion--may want to at least try one.

After seeing your test video...I may have to do a three tube reservoir to celebrate the upcoming Falcon Heavy launch =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Check the link in my post. Has the wrong monsoon logo on your stuff.


I tried...it just redirects to a search box on New Egg


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No idea, it was my suggestion to box gods make an empty tube wee could fill with what we want, we dont need you to make controller, let us use the leds, cfl. or addressable leds we want.
> 
> 
> 
> You can already do that...unscrew the cap, slide the CCFL out...put whatever you want in there, put the cap back on.
> 
> The opening in the plug body is the same diameter as the ID of the tube.
Click to expand...

Ahh ty.

And yea the link changed


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Check the link in my post. Has the wrong monsoon logo on your stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried...it just redirects to a search box on New Egg
Click to expand...

The logo says monsoon multimedia. Only the stuff from that seller shows up like that.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The white LED tubes might give you better diffusion--may want to at least try one.


Possibly. However, when using a "frosted clear" reservoir tube, I don't think the extra diffusion would be helpful. I honestly don't know. Having the white tube might diffuse them a bit TOO much, and I need to be very careful about what brightness I run them at (due to temperatures.)

So, the APA102-2020 LED's came in. They are exactly as described, which I'm finding hard to believe. Handling this 1 meter strip is like handling a 1 meter long strand of spaghetti. It's REALLY thin (4mm.) However, I'm having some issues with it that might impact people:

1. Most LED strips of 1 meter length are actually 2 1/2 meter lengths soldered together. In the case of these super thin ones, it's actually 3 1/3 meter lengths soldered together (each consisting of 66 LEDs.)

2. Related to #1, unlike most LED strips I've encountered, this really thin one doesn't have solder points every 1 or 2 LEDS. It only has solder points every 66 LEDs.

3. These things get much warmer than 5050 LED's.

My original plan (for a 100mm res) was to cut two lengths of 20 LED's, solder them together so the face opposite directions, and insert them into the CCFL tube. In relation to #1/#2, because this strip only has solder points every 66 LED's, I can't actually do that. I can cut wherever I want, but there's no way to make a length of 20 LED's that has solder points on both ends (one end to join with the other LED strip and one end for the wiring.)

On the other hand, this strip is so delicate that I think I can get away with just cutting a length of 40 LED's and folding it half. My concern with that is simply that the flexible PCB might not handle the 180 degree bend very well. Sadly, I don't see any alternative. Even if that works, it'll lead to a significant amount of unusable (wasted) LED's. These strips are expensive, so that's kind of painful.

(It's possible that the less dense 2020 strips have solder points more often. If so, they would probably be good for 200mm reservoir tubes and greater.)

Finally, for #3, the operating temperature of these LED's maxes at around 60C. Shoving two strips (or one strip doubled up) of these LED's into a tiny enclosed space (the CCFL tube) might cause them to overheat fairly quickly. I'm really not sure how I can test that. I don't think I'll be able to stick a thermistor inside the CCFL tube along with the doubled LED strip, and I don't own (or have access to) one of those fancy infrared temperature measuring gun things.

I'm wondering if I can slip a very thin piece of aluminum or copper between the doubled LED strips to draw some of the heat up to the metal plug of the CCFL tube. Any feedback on how I might solve this issue is welcome...



Gary


----------



## Mega Man

the water will cool it probably plenty


----------



## garyd9

I chopped the LED strip, folded it, and shoved it into the CCFL tube. This isn't at all refined, and the animations have to be adjusted a bit. (In particular, the "fire" animation colors seem too white/pink.) Here's some quick and dirty video:









One interesting thing can be seen in the reflection of the glass in the "fire" animation: I'm using a MMRS cap that has three top ports, so I can't really center the CCFL tube. Instead, I'm using the hole furthest away from the camera, and LED's aren't quite diffused enough in the rear for my anal retentiveness. (They can be seen in the reflection.) This is a case where the white CCFL tube might help...


----------



## garyd9

@BoxGods, a quick "support" question for you (unrelated to my LED project.)

I've attached a quick photo of my reservoir... this is a 100mm clear frosted. If you look closely, near the top of the res (circled in red), there's some discoloration of the res. It ALMOST appears as if the upper (outer) portion of the res is wet (and if I wipe the outside with a damp cloth, the discoloration appears to go away until it dries.) It's not wet (on the outside.)

(Perhaps "discoloration" isn't the proper term, but I really don't know what to call it. The res is still frosted in the area, it just looks... different.)

The res is completely full with distilled water treated with primochill "liquid utopia." (If it wasn't completely full, that line would be straight, not curved like that.) I flushed and filled it about a week ago, and there are no signs of any water problems anywhere else in the loop. That discoloration line kind meanders it's way all the around the upper portion of the res (though it's damn hard to photograph, it's much more prominent with the naked eye.) I first noticed it about 4 days ago.

Before installing the res, I rinsed with tap water, wiped it out, rinsed again with tap water, and then rinsed twice with straight distilled water. (Distilled water is cheap, so I tend to err on the side of excess when cleaning water cooling stuff.) There are no leaks.

I've tried wiping the outside of the res with a microfiber cloth and distilled water to "clean off" the discoloration, but as soon the water evaporates, the discoloration is still there.

Once you know where to look, you can also see this discoloration on the two videos I posted in the message before this one.

The overall kit is.. EK CPU and GPU blocks, hwlabs radiators, EK soft tubing, fittings from most every water cooling company, an EK D5 PWM topped with a Monsoon top and Monsoon reservoir.

Is this something I should be concerned about, or some type of breaking in thing that will either fade away or smooth out?


----------



## Mega Man

I see what looks like finger prints


----------



## garyd9

... crap... and I just discovered that the CCFL tube (the clear lens) that I was using for the LEDs leaks. I pulled the tube out for the night (so I can put the cover back on my machine...) and the inside of the tube was covered with moisture.









I did a quick "blow" test (stick the end of the tube in a cup of water and blow into the tube), and there is NOT a good seal between the plastic plug and the plastic tube. Just my luck... Well, I guess this adventure will have to be on hold for a few days while I order another CCFL (and return this one.)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> the water will cool it probably plenty


I am not sure as plastic is a fairly decent insulator. Maybe.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> ... crap... and I just discovered that the CCFL tube (the clear lens) that I was using for the LEDs leaks. I pulled the tube out for the night (so I can put the cover back on my machine...) and the inside of the tube was covered with moisture.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a quick "blow" test (stick the end of the tube in a cup of water and blow into the tube), and there is NOT a good seal between the plastic plug and the plastic tube. Just my luck... Well, I guess this adventure will have to be on hold for a few days while I order another CCFL (and return this one.)


Might be an issue caused by the heat from all the LED's...be careful.

That discoloration is from oil in the O-ring wicking into the frosted surface. You need to wash the reservoir tube in hot soapy water--like dish soap NOT a glass cleaner. I would also wash the O-rings. You don't need a scrub brush or anything like that, just a good washing in hot soapy water in the sink. Let the tube air dry and the discoloration will be gone.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Might be an issue caused by the heat from all the LED's...be careful.


hrm. What kind of glue/adhesive is used to attach the bottom "plug" in the CCFL lens tube? (For reference, I'm referring to the "plug" on the left side of the image on post the post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/4420#post_26348317) It's hard to imagine that the adhesive broke down when the outer part of the joint was no higher than my water temp (max of 35C before my fans start going nuts) even if the inside temp reached as high as 50C. (Then again, I'm not a chemical engineer, so I could easily be wrong.)

If the adhesive is commonly available, I could probably find it's heat tolerances online somewhere...

(To be completely honest, though, I kind of doubt it'd be the heat... we're talking temps that are "warm to the touch", and not "ouch! that burns!" I suspect I just managed to get unlucky and had one that was leaking to begin with. It happens.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> That discoloration is from oil in the O-ring wicking into the frosted surface. You need to wash the reservoir tube in hot soapy water--like dish soap NOT a glass cleaner. I would also wash the O-rings. You don't need a scrub brush or anything like that, just a good washing in hot soapy water in the sink. Let the tube air dry and the discoloration will be gone.


Noo...... I don't want to have to take the reservoir apart again. I LOVE the unit, but to clean that res tube means I have to get the thing out of my case, take the pump out of it, undo all the tension rods, etc. Oh, and I'd have to drain the loop as well. Then putting everything back together and the pain of refilling the loop (and getting the air out...)

Would that oil cause any problems in my loop if left for a few weeks? Perhaps by then I'll have talked my wife into letting spend even more money on monsoon stuff (and buy a 200mm res, 200mm tension rods, 200mm U/V CCFL for the tube, and some of the longer side mounting things.)


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Possibly. However, when using a "frosted clear" reservoir tube, I don't think the extra diffusion would be helpful. I honestly don't know. Having the white tube might diffuse them a bit TOO much, and I need to be very careful about what brightness I run them at (due to temperatures.)
> 
> So, the APA102-2020 LED's came in. They are exactly as described, which I'm finding hard to believe. Handling this 1 meter strip is like handling a 1 meter long strand of spaghetti. It's REALLY thin (4mm.) However, I'm having some issues with it that might impact people:
> 
> 1. Most LED strips of 1 meter length are actually 2 1/2 meter lengths soldered together. In the case of these super thin ones, it's actually 3 1/3 meter lengths soldered together (each consisting of 66 LEDs.)
> 
> 2. Related to #1, unlike most LED strips I've encountered, this really thin one doesn't have solder points every 1 or 2 LEDS. It only has solder points every 66 LEDs.
> 
> Gary


Well, that's annoyingly frustrating. I looked around and saw some that have solder points between each led, but they are too wide. I didn't realize it, but the APA102 are those fancy "POV" led strips. Adafruit sells them as Dotstar (their skinny versions are 5.5mm wide so probably won't work). I've been eyeballing them for a few months now, hoping to see them in RGBW form. Once I see them, I'll swap over to them because they don't require specific timings like WS2812B do. You can control them with a Pi. I'd love to do that and then write up an Android app to control them over the wifis or even make Alexa controls for them.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> hrm. What kind of glue/adhesive is used to attach the bottom "plug" in the CCFL lens tube? (For reference, I'm referring to the "plug" on the left side of the image on post the post here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1567067/new-products-from-monsoon-cooling/4420#post_26348317) It's hard to imagine that the adhesive broke down when the outer part of the joint was no higher than my water temp (max of 35C before my fans start going nuts) even if the inside temp reached as high as 50C. (Then again, I'm not a chemical engineer, so I could easily be wrong.)
> 
> If the adhesive is commonly available, I could probably find it's heat tolerances online somewhere...
> 
> (To be completely honest, though, I kind of doubt it'd be the heat... we're talking temps that are "warm to the touch", and not "ouch! that burns!" I suspect I just managed to get unlucky and had one that was leaking to begin with. It happens.)
> Noo...... I don't want to have to take the reservoir apart again. I LOVE the unit, but to clean that res tube means I have to get the thing out of my case, take the pump out of it, undo all the tension rods, etc. Oh, and I'd have to drain the loop as well. Then putting everything back together and the pain of refilling the loop (and getting the air out...)
> 
> Would that oil cause any problems in my loop if left for a few weeks? Perhaps by then I'll have talked my wife into letting spend even more money on monsoon stuff (and buy a 200mm res, 200mm tension rods, 200mm U/V CCFL for the tube, and some of the longer side mounting things.)


The end caps are not bonded on with adhesive. they are USW welded on so the tube and cap become one monolithic part.

The oil / lubricant is the same stuff that is on every O ring you have ever bought. It protects them from drying out while they sit on the shelf in some ware house. The only reason you notice it on the frosted reservoir tube is because the surface satin finish causes some weird capillary action and it "migrates" for want of a better word.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The end caps are not bonded on with adhesive. they are USW welded on so the tube and cap become one monolithic part.


Hmm... Something must have gone wrong with the unit I had. I can't take any better photos of it anymore (as it's been returned), but it very much felt like two separate pieces glued together. I was able to run my fingernail through the joint. The "leak" was definitely in that joint.

(I'm not criticizing you or your process... I'm just saying that one might have slipped past the normal process. No harm was done in this case, and I don't mind the slight inconvenience if it helps to make an awesome product better.)

If you want to try and watch for the return to check the issue, let me know and I'll PM you the original order info (which, I'm hoping, you'd be able to use to get the seller to flag the return for your attention.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The oil / lubricant is the same stuff that is on every O ring you have ever bought. It protects them from drying out while they sit on the shelf in some ware house. The only reason you notice it on the frosted reservoir tube is because the surface satin finish causes some weird capillary action and it "migrates" for want of a better word.


Okay, then I don't need to be concerned about it at all. It might even go away on its own in a few weeks (assuming I don't tear it down for a bigger res before then.) Next time, I'll carefully wash the washers in addition to the acrylic.

(in reference to your MMRS videos): I wonder if I shoved some cat hair up near the o-ring if it'd absorb the oil.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Hmm... Something must have gone wrong with the unit I had. I can't take any better photos of it anymore (as it's been returned), but it very much felt like two separate pieces glued together. I was able to run my fingernail through the joint. The "leak" was definitely in that joint.
> 
> (I'm not criticizing you or your process... I'm just saying that one might have slipped past the normal process. No harm was done in this case, and I don't mind the slight inconvenience if it helps to make an awesome product better.)
> 
> If you want to try and watch for the return to check the issue, let me know and I'll PM you the original order info (which, I'm hoping, you'd be able to use to get the seller to flag the return for your attention.)
> Okay, then I don't need to be concerned about it at all. It might even go away on its own in a few weeks (assuming I don't tear it down for a bigger res before then.) Next time, I'll carefully wash the washers in addition to the acrylic.
> 
> (in reference to your MMRS videos): I wonder if I shoved some cat hair up near the o-ring if it'd absorb the oil.


There is a cap (it is molded) so there are two pieces (cap and tube) but they are welded together in a fixture with Ultra Sonic Vibration, (USW). The process uses vibration focused on the seam to melt the plastic of the two parts and fuse them together. It is a really interesting process.

On the cat hair...we have something like 10 cats so it is a part of my daily life. My wife corrects me at least 5 times a day because I get their names wrong.


----------



## Mega Man

Ew- cats -1 for monsoon


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Ew- cats -1 for monsoon


Well I also have four dogs and if you measure by weight that is like 40 x more than the cats


----------



## garyd9

It looks like I won't be able to use the CCFL lens for the LED's. Tried again over the weekend with a different CCFL lens: This time, I only used a single strip (20) LED's instead of two strips. I also ran the LED's at 3.3v instead of 5v, AND configured their brightness at only 30%. In this configuration, the LED's didn't even get warm. (Using only a single LED strip, I was able to slide a thermistor all the way into the tube to keep an eye on temps.)

Temps inside the CCFL lens were about 2-3 C above temps outside the lens. I think this is lower than the amount of heat generated by the actual CCFL.

However, after 4-6 hours in the reservoir, the CCFL tube still filled with water. In fact, this time the result was much worse: the (not waterproof) LED strip was completely submerged in water. Thankfully, nothing was destroyed except the LED's. Like last time, the point of failure was at the joint between the plug and tube.

Conclusion: Either I'm extremely unlucky with the black/UV ccfl tube lenses, or *something* about these LED's is somehow disrupting the ultrasonic weld. I've never heard of LED's having that kind of impact on plastic, but I don't have any other reasonable explanation.

@BoxGods, that vendor is probably going to send you back a black/UV 100mm CCFL tube (from my previous return) as defective/leaks. At this point, it appears that the LED's might have caused the leak, so I'm responsible for the cost of the returned item. Please let me know how much and where to send money. (Prefer paypal.)

Take care
Gary


----------



## Mega Man

Why not just diy a fix, since your diying all else, silicone is cheap, and seals well

At box gods, sorry it is like credit, really easy to lose, but really hard to gain


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why not just diy a fix, since your diying all else, silicone is cheap, and seals well


Would there be any harmful effects of silicon in a water cooling loop?

If I knew what type of plastic the tube (and plug) was made from, I might try to pursue a solvent that would chemically weld the parts together.

Of course, until I understand WHY the LED strip seemed to cause a leak, I'm not sure how to solve the problem properly. Silicon or a chemical weld might fare no better than the ultrasonic weld.


----------



## Mega Man

1 word, no


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why not just diy a fix, since your diying all else, silicone is cheap, and seals well
> 
> 
> 
> Would there be any harmful effects of silicon in a water cooling loop?
> 
> If I knew what type of plastic the tube (and plug) was made from, I might try to pursue a solvent that would chemically weld the parts together.
> 
> Of course, until I understand WHY the LED strip seemed to cause a leak, I'm not sure how to solve the problem properly. Silicon or a chemical weld might fare no better than the ultrasonic weld.
Click to expand...

One of my cfl tubes filled with fluid one day too. I came home and had a pool of coolant on top of the res and one of the two tubes were full. Never did figure out how it happened and it hasn't happened since. Maybe the UV glue for the hardline fittings would work? Also, I'm pretty sure orings are made of silicone so there shouldn't be any issues using it.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> One of my cfl tubes filled with fluid one day too. I came home and had a pool of coolant on top of the res and one of the two tubes were full. Never did figure out how it happened and it hasn't happened since. Maybe the UV glue for the hardline fittings would work?


The same CCFL tube hasn't caused you a problem since, or did you replace it? When you had the issue, was the knurled top "cap" piece properly secured to the CCFL tube? The reason I'm asking is that I'm starting to think that the plug on the end of the CCFL lens tube might not be watertight (or pressure tight?) in MANY of them (but it doesn't matter.) Let me explain:

Terms (not accurate, but hopefully prevents confusion in my explanation):

CCFL bulb : the actual CCFL bulb with wires coming out of it

CCFL tube (or lens tube): the transparent or semi-transparent outer tube that keeps the CCFL bulb dry (and has a male threaded end.)

"knurled female threaded thing": The colored metal piece that threads to the CCFL lens tube.

CCFL tube plug: The solid plastic "plug" that's ultrasonic welded to the CCFL lens tube

Explanation:

If you remove the CCFL bulb from the tube, and then yank the knurled female threaded end off the CCFL bulb, you'll find that there's a rubber gasket attached to the CCFL bulb.. When that knurled female piece is properly threaded and tightened to the CCFL lens tube, it presses that gasket against the CCFL lens tube, sealing and creating an air lock (not an airlock), preventing water from flowing up the CCFL lens tube even if the little plastic CCFL tube plug isn't properly sealing against the CCFL lens tube.

In other words, it's possible that the "CCFL tube plug" isn't air/water tight in the majority of installations, but no one notices because the gasket on the CCFL bulb blocks air from escaping the tube (and that prevents water from pushing into the tube.)

THIS would explain the "leaks" in both of my CCFL lens tubes, as I didn't have any type of gasket or anything else blocking air... so water flowed into the CCFL tube freely.

One way to test this guess is to use a CCFL tube that is "known good" in an active reservoir, and take the CCFL bulb out (leaving just the CCFL lens tube in.) Run the machine for a few hours like that (heating it up, etc) and then check to see if any water made its way into the CCFL lens tube. (Or, is water is flowing out the top.)

An easier test would be to just fill the CCFL lens tube with water, seal it against your lips, and blow into it. I'll go try that now with my last remaining CCFL tube (a blue one that I actually use with a CCFL bulb.) Watch this space for an update...

So.... my original LED idea was flawed with a bad assumption. I had assumed that the CCFL tube plug was watertight by itself.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> One of my cfl tubes filled with fluid one day too. I came home and had a pool of coolant on top of the res and one of the two tubes were full. Never did figure out how it happened and it hasn't happened since. Maybe the UV glue for the hardline fittings would work?
> 
> 
> 
> The same CCFL tube hasn't caused you a problem since, or did you replace it? When you had the issue, was the knurled top "cap" piece properly secured to the CCFL tube? The reason I'm asking is that I'm starting to think that the plug on the end of the CCFL lens tube might not be watertight (or pressure tight?) in MANY of them (but it doesn't matter.) Let me explain:
> 
> Terms (not accurate, but hopefully prevents confusion in my explanation):
> 
> CCFL bulb : the actual CCFL bulb with wires coming out of it
> 
> CCFL tube (or lens tube): the transparent or semi-transparent outer tube that keeps the CCFL bulb dry (and has a male threaded end.)
> 
> "knurled female threaded thing": The colored metal piece that threads to the CCFL lens tube.
> 
> CCFL tube plug: The solid plastic "plug" that's ultrasonic welded to the CCFL lens tube
> 
> Explanation:
> 
> If you remove the CCFL bulb from the tube, and then yank the knurled female threaded end off the CCFL bulb, you'll find that there's a rubber gasket attached to the CCFL bulb.. When that knurled female piece is properly threaded and tightened to the CCFL lens tube, it presses that gasket against the CCFL lens tube, sealing and creating an air lock (not an airlock), preventing water from flowing up the CCFL lens tube even if the little plastic CCFL tube plug isn't properly sealing against the CCFL lens tube.
> 
> In other words, it's possible that the "CCFL tube plug" isn't air/water tight in the majority of installations, but no one notices because the gasket on the CCFL bulb blocks air from escaping the tube (and that prevents water from pushing into the tube.)
> 
> THIS would explain the "leaks" in both of my CCFL lens tubes, as I didn't have any type of gasket or anything else blocking air... so water flowed into the CCFL tube freely.
> 
> One way to test this guess is to use a CCFL tube that is "known good" in an active reservoir, and take the CCFL bulb out (leaving just the CCFL lens tube in.) Run the machine for a few hours like that (heating it up, etc) and then check to see if any water made its way into the CCFL lens tube. (Or, is water is flowing out the top.)
> 
> An easier test would be to just fill the CCFL lens tube with water, seal it against your lips, and blow into it. I'll go try that now with my last remaining CCFL tube (a blue one that I actually use with a CCFL bulb.) Watch this space for an update...
> 
> So.... my original LED idea was flawed with a bad assumption. I had assumed that the CCFL tube plug was watertight by itself.
Click to expand...

I actually replaced it, didn't want to take any chances. Now that I think about it, I did try to resleeve the cable but gave up after messing with that gasket piece. I may not have actually gotten it back together properly but you would think it would have failed immediately, not a month down the road.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garyd9*
> 
> An easier test would be to just fill the CCFL lens tube with water, seal it against your lips, and blow into it. I'll go try that now with my last remaining CCFL tube (a blue one that I actually use with a CCFL bulb.) Watch this space for an update...


Guess is now confirmed. My blue tube also is not watertight at that bottom plug. It's only the gasket at the top sealing in the air that prevents water from flowing in.

Oddly, that makes me feel much better. Perhaps this weekend I'll get some silicon and try things again.


----------



## BoxGods

Guys...the bottom or internal end of the tube is intended to be an air tight seal--I am talking about the end that goes down and is inside the reservoir. If you see a little bit of water inside the tube then that end cap was not welded on properly and my guys dropped the ball and the unit should be replaced. Just email me with your details and I will make sure you get a new one ASAP.

The only exception to this would be if you are running some other form of lights other than the CCFL's that come with the unit and your mod overheats the tube. If you are modding the part and bork it I would hope you do the right thing and own it. That being said I am a believer in the honor system so if it was faulty out of the box I apologize and of course we will replace it.


----------



## Revan654

I have just have a quick question. With the 90 & 45 degree light ports. The area where you screw in in the fitting (Opposite side of where you screw in light) is it a standard g 1/4 or is it a special size? I was wondering if I can use any type of fitting here to extend my loop(Like my normal Bitspower 16mm Straight fitting) or do you need to have special fitting with a certain OD?

I know Some MonSoon items use imperial system over metric system. I just want to double check before placing an order.


----------



## garyd9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> If you see a little bit of water inside the tube then that end cap was not welded on properly and my guys dropped the ball and the unit should be replaced. Just email me with your details and I will make sure you get a new one ASAP.


As I mentioned, I did a "clean" test with a blue CCFL tube by putting the tube into the reservoir and removing the CCFL bulb (which also removed the rubber gasket from the top of the tube - which is opposite the end that goes into the water.) The tube filled with water. Once dried, I replaced the CCFL bulb and tighten down the knurled "cap" which resealed the gasket and it no longer filled with water. (This was an unmolested tube.) I see no reason to replace it, as it works when installed properly (and not when installed improperly.)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> The only exception to this would be if you are running some other form of lights other than the CCFL's that come with the unit and your mod overheats the tube. If you are modding the part and bork it I would hope you do the right thing and own it. That being said I am a believer in the honor system so if it was faulty out of the box I apologize and of course we will replace it.


I did return one after having LED's in it (though, based on later tests I'm confident the leakage had nothing to do with heat.) However, I did use it in an unintended manner, and as mentioned in that previous post, would be willing to reimburse your cost of the returned good. Please PM me a paypal address and amount, and I'll "gift" the amount to you.

Take care
Gary


----------



## BoxGods

the top grommet on the cap itself has nothing to do with a seal.You can run the plug with no cap or grommet and it will still work fine.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I have just have a quick question. With the 90 & 45 degree light ports. The area where you screw in in the fitting (Opposite side of where you screw in light) is it a standard g 1/4 or is it a special size? I was wondering if I can use any type of fitting here to extend my loop(Like my normal Bitspower 16mm Straight fitting) or do you need to have special fitting with a certain OD?
> 
> I know Some MonSoon items use imperial system over metric system. I just want to double check before placing an order.


Just as an FYI all fitting used in water cooling that conform to the G 1/4 BSPP standard use imperial threads--the "B" in BSP stands for British


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just as an FYI all fitting used in water cooling that conform to the G 1/4 BSPP standard use imperial threads--the "B" in BSP stands for British


I was just double checking since. One of your fittings sets did not work properly with tubing I had in the past. I just wanted to make sure everything checked out ok.

Plus you had two versions with different sizes 5/8 & 3/4.


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was just double checking since. One of your fittings sets did not work properly with tubing I had in the past. I just wanted to make sure everything checked out ok.
> 
> Plus you had two versions with different sizes 5/8 & 3/4.




The part on the right has G 1/4 thread on the bottom, the top of the fitting would match inner diameter of your tube and the part on the left would match the outer diameter of your tube. For example 3/8x5/8, 1/2x3/4, etc. I've had some soft tubing before that was just big enough to make me struggle trying to get a fitting on, even though the same brand was fine both before and after.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *delerious*
> 
> 
> 
> The part on the right has G 1/4 thread on the bottom, the top of the fitting would match inner diameter of your tube and the part on the left would match the outer diameter of your tube. For example 3/8x5/8, 1/2x3/4, etc. I've had some soft tubing before that was just big enough to make me struggle trying to get a fitting on, even though the same brand was fine both before and after.


I know about all that. I was talking about 90 & 45 degree fittings with Light Ports(asking if both ports are G 1/4). Set I was talking about was a very long time ago, It wouldn't fit Bitspower or AlphaCool hard tubing. so ID would be mainly meaningless to me.


----------



## delerious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I know about all that. I was talking about 90 & 45 degree fittings with Light Ports(asking if both ports are G 1/4). Set I was talking about was a very long time ago, It wouldn't fit Bitspower or AlphaCool hard tubing. so ID would be mainly meaningless to me.


Sorry, I misunderstood. I just grabbed some rigid tubing - went with Monsoon fittings and tubing since they're both imperial.


----------



## BoxGods

Oddly enough when I started Monsoon I worked exclusively in imperial--typical American kind of hating on metric. Now I dread imperial and am almost to the point where I even "think" in metric. If I had my choice all of our products would be metric--the problem of course is that the U.S. market is about 10x the size of the EU market.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Oddly enough when I started Monsoon I worked exclusively in imperial--typical American kind of hating on metric. Now I dread imperial and am almost to the point where I even "think" in metric. If I had my choice all of our products would be metric--the problem of course is that the U.S. market is about 10x the size of the EU market.


I'm America & I kind of favor metric. I hate dealing with fractions in inches, I still don't know why we have two different systems. I would think one would make everything much easier.

I think I have used the Microsoft calculator more times building a PC then I have used it in entire in my entire life due to length conversion feature.

I was going to pick these up & use my existing fittings (Which are Bitspower 16mm)

Link: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-light-port-45-rotary-angle-fitting-5-8-matte-black.html
Link 2: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-light-port-90-rotary-angle-fitting-5-8-matte-black.html

I assume everything is 100% compatible?

One other question about the normal fitting mainly the Free Center Hardline Since you use the whole cap & locking system, are the locking caps metric or imperial? Would it hole glass tubing?


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Oddly enough when I started Monsoon I worked exclusively in imperial--typical American kind of hating on metric. Now I dread imperial and am almost to the point where I even "think" in metric. If I had my choice all of our products would be metric--the problem of course is that the U.S. market is about 10x the size of the EU market.


You know another indication of this is the US education system. K-12 deals 99% in imperial, and then once students hit post secondary they are slammed in the face with metric and have a hard time converting or sometimes even understanding it. I'm as red white and blue American as they come, but the imperial system is something that needs to die and we just need to get on board with the rest of the world imo.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> You know another indication of this is the US education system. K-12 deals 99% in imperial, and then once students hit post secondary they are slammed in the face with metric and have a hard time converting or sometimes even understanding it. I'm as red white and blue American as they come, but the imperial system is something that needs to die and we just need to get on board with the rest of the world imo.


I agree 100%. I have been pretty handy all my life building things so I have a hard time with the "core brain" aspects. I know instinctively what a foot is or how fast 60mph is or how to dress for a 100F day. For metric I still have to convert to imperial in my head to grasp some of those on that more fundamental level. If somebody says it is about 300mm long I convert it and as a foot I have a better idea. I guess the shorter way to say all of the above is that "unlearning" is harder than learning.

Metric sometimes misses one step, (as compared to Imperial) also--like the foot. Lastly, I think using the metric system makes Europeans more comfortable with decimals than most Americans typically are. The can say 1.5m and you know that is 1,500mm or 150cm. You can't really say 1.3 feet or 1.7 yards and be sure the person will understand.


----------



## Mega Man

Half right. 1.25ft, 1.5ft, 1.75ft most will.

But we where supposed to convert... people in the 70s (iirc, possibily 80s) refused to

Edit, 1975-1985


----------



## ruffhi

There are some imperial measures that Americans don't know. How many pounds in a stone?

The other interesting facts is that Olympic sports-people from the US know the conversions very accurately if required (weight lifters know Kg <--> lbs, high jumpers know m <--> feet) but if asked about other conversions (eg gallons <--> litres) they are way off.


----------



## QuadDamage

I am still running my danger Den moon Bay res my 2ed set of LED lights just went out on it thought It's had a near 4 year run on these lights. 1st lights died in less then 1
Pretty happy with the product.


----------



## WhiteWulfe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> There are some imperial measures that Americans don't know. How many pounds in a stone?
> 
> The other interesting facts is that Olympic sports-people from the US know the conversions very accurately if required (weight lifters know Kg <--> lbs, high jumpers know m <--> feet) but if asked about other conversions (eg gallons <--> litres) they are way off.


One of the problems is there are two definitions of a gallon... A US gallon is 3.785L, an imperial gallon is 4.546L.... At least with gasoline fuel.


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Half right. 1.25ft, 1.5ft, 1.75ft most will.
> 
> But we where supposed to convert... people in the 70s (iirc, possibily 80s) refused to
> 
> Edit, 1975-1985


Well to be fair I was still IN the education system in those years, haha, now I have to WORK in it, and man is it tough, lots of kids these days can't even read a ruler, sigh...


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radnad*
> 
> Well to be fair I was still IN the education system in those years, haha, now I have to WORK in it, and man is it tough, lots of kids these days can't even read a ruler, sigh...


OMG you just hit on one of my pet peeves...how can you be 15 or 16 years old and not know how to read a ruler / tape measure?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuadDamage*
> 
> I am still running my danger Den moon Bay res my 2ed set of LED lights just went out on it thought It's had a near 4 year run on these lights. 1st lights died in less then 1
> Pretty happy with the product.


I look back at pictures of that original...it is like seeing pictures of yourself in your old year book









I see a hundred things I would change. I think the Series 2 is leaps and bounds better


----------



## Mega Man

Where you part of dd?


----------



## BoxGods

Not one of the original four. I did do product design and some of their manufacturing the last few years.


----------



## Juris

Anyone know roughly how many of the Monsoon hardline fittings can be glued with just one 8ml bottle of Monsoon UV cure adhesive. I have 12 to do on my new rig and I want them stuck well. Wondering if I need to buy another bottle or with one do. Cheers.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Anyone know roughly how many of the Monsoon hardline fittings can be glued with just one 8ml bottle of Monsoon UV cure adhesive. I have 12 to do on my new rig and I want them stuck well. Wondering if I need to buy another bottle or with one do. Cheers.


One will do it if you don't chose to wipe one down and redo it (you can remove the adhesive completely before you cure it). If you are worried get a second bottle as it is usually cheaper than the shipping. It is also pretty useful for other stuff.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> One will do it if you don't chose to wipe one down and redo it (you can remove the adhesive completely before you cure it). If you are worried get a second bottle as it is usually cheaper than the shipping. It is also pretty useful for other stuff.


Thanks BoxGods much appreciated. Bit of a weird question but I'm trying to get my hands on another of your 90 degree chrome 16/10 adapters to complete my build and Overclockers.co.uk have told me they are delayed. Would you know if a shipment is going to them by any chance. Been waiting 3 weeks for them to get them in stock and its the last part of the build. Cheers.


----------



## Deedaz

My lantern shrunk!


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Thanks BoxGods much appreciated. Bit of a weird question but I'm trying to get my hands on another of your 90 degree chrome 16/10 adapters to complete my build and Overclockers.co.uk have told me they are delayed. Would you know if a shipment is going to them by any chance. Been waiting 3 weeks for them to get them in stock and its the last part of the build. Cheers.


I did see an order from them a while back...like a week or 10 days ago. I didn't look at what was on it but OCUK staff is pretty sharp so if they say they ordered it I would trust that that is correct.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> My lantern shrunk!


Still looks awesome tho


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Does anyone have any experience with trying to place rubber/foam inserts under MMRS reservoir mounts? I have the pump/res combo and runnin my alphacool vpp655 vario on 1/5 yet it's still clearly the loudest part of the loop ( one that I can control anyway, coilwhine in out of my control ) running my fans @ 500rpm permanently and cant hear them, at all.
Trying to figure out if it's worth trying to add some rubber/foam under the mounts or not, would like to keep using the pump, or maybe vpp755 is a good option? I remember Boxgods mentioning that it works with the MMRS?


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Does anyone have any experience with trying to place rubber/foam inserts under MMRS reservoir mounts? I have the pump/res combo and runnin my alphacool vpp655 vario on 1/5 yet it's still clearly the loudest part of the loop ( one that I can control anyway, coilwhine in out of my control ) running my fans @ 500rpm permanently and cant hear them, at all.
> Trying to figure out if it's worth trying to add some rubber/foam under the mounts or not, would like to keep using the pump, or maybe vpp755 is a good option? I remember Boxgods mentioning that it works with the MMRS?


I used the excess foam from a radiator gasket and cut it to the shape of the res mount. I would stick with the standard D5, that vpp755 is a just a mess.


----------



## BoxGods

Put it on both sides of the panel also.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Is there anywhere I can get engineering drawings or measurements of the MMRS components? I'm trying to figure out what will fit vertically in my case.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> Is there anywhere I can get engineering drawings or measurements of the MMRS components? I'm trying to figure out what will fit vertically in my case.


Third post down on this page.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgdeaner*
> 
> Is there anywhere I can get engineering drawings or measurements of the MMRS components? I'm trying to figure out what will fit vertically in my case.


Most of the parts also have sketchup models available.


----------



## Eusbwoa18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Third post down on this page.


This is perfect. Thanks!


----------



## antmanknows

okay new to water cooling pc's but i am a plumber by trade and i have to say that the EV2 compression fitting design is bang on and i will definitely be using them in my builds as well as the modular reservoir system.
Love the new white caps with the black as well.
i do have a question - is there anyway to face the fitting outlets toward the mount side without special modding or should i just go with my first thought which is to build a special front area from acrylic and glass to house them so i can aim them toward the machine?

smile it takes less energy
antman


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antmanknows*
> 
> okay new to water cooling pc's but i am a plumber by trade and i have to say that the EV2 compression fitting design is bang on and i will definitely be using them in my builds as well as the modular reservoir system.
> Love the new white caps with the black as well.
> i do have a question - is there anyway to face the fitting outlets toward the mount side without special modding or should i just go with my first thought which is to build a special front area from acrylic and glass to house them so i can aim them toward the machine?
> 
> smile it takes less energy
> antman


Looking at this picture, are you saying you want the side ports to face the back? If so, all you need to do is rotate the cap to line up when you assemble it.


----------



## antmanknows

@Deedaz

yes but then how do i mount it since the mounting brackets are on opposite side of the unit
The intent was to front mount them incorporated into the front panel - does that clear up my intent ?

smile make em wonder what your thinking
antman


----------



## Juris

I switched over to EV2 fittings from the older acrylic glue style mid way through my build (had to rebend as the EV2's need slightly longer tube lengths but you live and learn). Just wondering is there any way to make them sit flush with the fittings they are attached to. Its all Monsoon, EV2's, Monsoon 5/8 tubing, Monsoon 90 rotary but the gap is annoying me.


----------



## Inelastic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> I switched over to EV2 fittings from the older acrylic glue style mid way through my build (had to rebend as the EV2's need slightly longer tube lengths but you live and learn). Just wondering is there any way to make them sit flush with the fittings they are attached to. Its all Monsoon, EV2's, Monsoon 5/8 tubing, Monsoon 90 rotary but the gap is annoying me.


I doubt it. I'm pretty sure the o-ring is the cause of that gap.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Inelastic*
> 
> I doubt it. I'm pretty sure the o-ring is the cause of that gap.


I tested with the ferrule for 5/8" and for the 3/8" and the gap is still there. I tested it without the ferrule and it does sit flush with the 90 adapter so it seems the issue is there. If the ferrule could be made ever so slightly shorter in height there would be no gap and the threads wouldn't be showing but I reckon it would still allow it to be compressed by the cap to create a seal on the tube.

Disappointing that the older fittings allowed a flush fitting but the new ones don't.


----------



## Juris

Long shot but anyone know where to get 5/8 Monsoon Lightport 90 rotary fittings in chrome PN: MON-LP-90-58-CH in Europe. Tried looking everywhere I can think but nobody seems to have them. PPCS sell them but its twice the price with shipping to Ireland. FrozenCPU sell them with free USPS 1st class international but eh its Frozen and I'm not exactly comfortable buying from them even if they are under new management.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antmanknows*
> 
> okay new to water cooling pc's but i am a plumber by trade and i have to say that the EV2 compression fitting design is bang on and i will definitely be using them in my builds as well as the modular reservoir system.
> Love the new white caps with the black as well.
> i do have a question - is there anyway to face the fitting outlets toward the mount side without special modding or should i just go with my first thought which is to build a special front area from acrylic and glass to house them so i can aim them toward the machine?
> 
> smile it takes less energy
> antman


As a mediocre home plumber I will take that as high praise indeed--thank you =)


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> I switched over to EV2 fittings from the older acrylic glue style mid way through my build (had to rebend as the EV2's need slightly longer tube lengths but you live and learn). Just wondering is there any way to make them sit flush with the fittings they are attached to. Its all Monsoon, EV2's, Monsoon 5/8 tubing, Monsoon 90 rotary but the gap is annoying me.


Do you have the ferrules facing/pointing the correct direction?


----------



## BoxGods

Just a quick shopping update. It looks like Titan Rig on Amazon has gone over to Prime now so free fast shipping woot









Not sure if that is as big a deal to everyone else as it is to me personally. I always filter by Prime and if a company doesn't have prime I look for one that does.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Do you have the ferrules facing/pointing the correct direction?


Hi BoxGods yep ferrule short side pointing down towards the g1/4 port with the long side facing towards the compression cap. Its not something I'm going to scrap the build over. I'm OCD but not that OCD (taps wooden table 6 times as required by the OCD).


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Hi BoxGods yep ferrule short side pointing down towards the compression fitting with the long side facing towards the compression cap. Its not something I'm going to scrap the build over. I'm OCD but not that OCD (taps wooden table 6 times as required by the OCD).


Just remember it is 4 short fast taps followed by two long slow taps if you're in the Northern hemisphere and reversed if you're in the Southern.

We have to build a slight space in there because the fittings need to fit a wide range of different products--blocks and reservoirs from every company IOW. The biggest "problem" products are usually radiators as they sometimes have a bit of a detente on the port mating surface. If we made it so that the compression ring bottomed out it causes two potential issues. The first is the possibility of it scratching peoples expensive parts. If you think you are OCD about the gap, imagine how my mailbox would explode if people were scratching up their expensive blocks. The second potential issue is that the compression ring might bottom out before the ring was tight enough with the potential for tube pull out and / or leaks.


----------



## Juris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoxGods*
> 
> Just remember it is 4 short fast taps followed by two long slow taps if you're in the Northern hemisphere and reversed if you're in the Southern.
> 
> We have to build a slight space in there because the fittings need to fit a wide range of different products--blocks and reservoirs from every company IOW. The biggest "problem" products are usually radiators as they sometimes have a bit of a detente on the port mating surface. If we made it so that the compression ring bottomed out it causes two potential issues. The first is the possibility of it scratching peoples expensive parts. If you think you are OCD about the gap, imagine how my mailbox would explode if people were scratching up their expensive blocks. The second potential issue is that the compression ring might bottom out before the ring was tight enough with the potential for tube pull out and / or leaks.


No worries at all. I figured it was because you had to be sure of making secure contact with every tube on the planet as you said. Never mind the scratching imagine if it leaked on little Timmy's twin 1080Ti's. You'd never hear the end of it. Is there anywhere to buy spare ferrules. I was thinking of filing them down but I'm probably just being ******ed, as usual.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> No worries at all. I figured it was because you had to be sure of making secure contact with every tube on the planet as you said. Never mind the scratching imagine if it leaked on little Timmy's twin 1080Ti's. You'd never hear the end of it. Is there anywhere to buy spare ferrules. I was thinking of filing them down but I'm probably just being ******ed, as usual.


Rather than filing them down I would suggest just leaving them out all together. Strictly speaking they have nothing to do with the seal as the only purpose they serve is to add a little bit of pull out resistance.


----------



## antmanknows

Hi BoxGods yep ferrule short side pointing down towards the g1/4 port with the long side facing towards the compression cap. Its not something I'm going to scrap the build over. I'm OCD but not that OCD (taps wooden table 6 times as required by the OCD). smile.gif

Juris actually i do believe that is backwards the long side should go toward the fitting but this will most likely increase the gap you are worried about.
It should be long side toward fitting for the ferrule to work as intended it will work some what the other way but not as intended and most definitely not stop pull out which it will installed properly.
Just a plumbing thing as Boxgods points out is not needed for sealing with the twin orings but with out it it may come loose your call either way.

smile it makes em wonder what your up to
antman


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antmanknows*
> 
> Hi BoxGods yep ferrule short side pointing down towards the g1/4 port with the long side facing towards the compression cap. Its not something I'm going to scrap the build over. I'm OCD but not that OCD (taps wooden table 6 times as required by the OCD). smile.gif
> 
> Juris actually i do believe that is backwards the long side should go toward the fitting but this will most likely increase the gap you are worried about.
> It should be long side toward fitting for the ferrule to work as intended it will work some what the other way but not as intended and most definitely not stop pull out which it will installed properly.
> Just a plumbing thing as Boxgods points out is not needed for sealing with the twin orings but with out it it may come loose your call either way.
> 
> smile it makes em wonder what your up to
> antman


What he said


----------



## Juris

Just so I'm not confusing everyone this is the way I have the ferule mounted. I followed the diagram in the instructions but I'm probably explaining it like a ******ed seal with a hangover.


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juris*
> 
> Just so I'm not confusing everyone this is the way I have the ferule mounted. I followed the diagram in the instructions but I'm probably explaining it like a ******ed seal with a hangover.


Things like this are pretty hard to describe in writing. You have it in there correctly.


----------



## GraphicsWhore

@BoxGods Just as someone using (and loving) many Monsoon parts I feel compelled to tell you about my experience with the CCFL inverter.

First had the SATA connector collapse; I was being too forceful.
Second had the same issue; here I thought I was being careful, having had learned a lesson, but either way the same result.
Third had two of the ports die randomly.
About a week ago, my 4th unit (another 4 port) died completely.

I'll open the rig and see if it's some kind of physical connection issue but it hasn't been touched since I set it up.

Is this common with this device? Am I just unlucky?


----------



## BoxGods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GraphicsWhore*
> 
> @BoxGods Just as someone using (and loving) many Monsoon parts I feel compelled to tell you about my experience with the CCFL inverter.
> 
> First had the SATA connector collapse; I was being too forceful.
> Second had the same issue; here I thought I was being careful, having had learned a lesson, but either way the same result.
> Third had two of the ports die randomly.
> About a week ago, my 4th unit (another 4 port) died completely.
> 
> I'll open the rig and see if it's some kind of physical connection issue but it hasn't been touched since I set it up.
> 
> Is this common with this device? Am I just unlucky?


I wish I could say it is just you being unlucky but the reality is that we did have a lot of teething issues with the first revision of the inverters. The board mounted SATA plugs were just too delicate and caused problems. The Revision 2 or second generation parts use a new SATA plug that are hard mounted.

You should not have been getting the older unit as those were all destroyed when we sent out the new parts.

Anyway, I am sorry for the hassle to you and if you email me your contact info I can get a replacement in the mail to you ASAP.


----------



## Siamonsez

Hi @BoxGods, I just finished my first water cooling rig and after falling in love with the MMRS res I ended using a lot of your stuff. I'm having a problem with air bubbles because my loop design has the res in and out on the same single port dual side end cap so as bubble get loose, some of them get sucked back in.

I'm trying to figure out some way to direct the input flow away from where the outlet is, but the ports on the outside of the end caps are pretty shallow so I can't use anything that threads into the g1/4 on the inside of the res.

I was thinking about trying to Frankenstein together an anti-vortex part with a piece of hard tube in the middle, but doubt my ability to execute it well enough. The other thing I was thinking about was finding a g1/4 fitting with a long enough threaded part that it sticks up into the res a few mm. I have some of your 1/2*5/8 hard tube left over and it will actually thread onto male g1/4 with gentle coaxing.

Any other thoughts?


----------



## SolarNova

@BoxGods

Im thinking about using a Barrow 90degree adapters along with Monsoon Ev2 fittings for a sub zero glass tubed liquid system im planning.

Do you by any chance know how well your Monsoon Chrome fittings match up with Barrow Silver in regards to color ?

Cheers.


----------



## Deedaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamonsez*
> 
> Hi @BoxGods, I just finished my first water cooling rig and after falling in love with the MMRS res I ended using a lot of your stuff. I'm having a problem with air bubbles because my loop design has the res in and out on the same single port dual side end cap so as bubble get loose, some of them get sucked back in.
> 
> I'm trying to figure out some way to direct the input flow away from where the outlet is, but the ports on the outside of the end caps are pretty shallow so I can't use anything that threads into the g1/4 on the inside of the res.
> 
> I was thinking about trying to Frankenstein together an anti-vortex part with a piece of hard tube in the middle, but doubt my ability to execute it well enough. The other thing I was thinking about was finding a g1/4 fitting with a long enough threaded part that it sticks up into the res a few mm. I have some of your 1/2*5/8 hard tube left over and it will actually thread onto male g1/4 with gentle coaxing.
> 
> Any other thoughts?


Can you post a pic of your res setup? Primochill makes these coils you can cut and bend to the right size if the anti vortex trident isn't enough. Also try reducing pump speed.


----------



## KnyghtFall

Silly question, but just wanted to have confirmation. The Monsoon EV2 fittings can be utilized with other brands' 90/45 degree adapters correct? I know as long as the threading's the same G1/4 it should be fine but just wanted to be sure. Thanks in advance.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KnyghtFall*
> 
> Silly question, but just wanted to have confirmation. The Monsoon EV2 fittings can be utilized with other brands' 90/45 degree adapters correct? I know as long as the threading's the same G1/4 it should be fine but just wanted to be sure. Thanks in advance.


They can. I use them in various Barrow fittings (90s, 45s, pass throughs, etc).


----------



## KnyghtFall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> They can. I use them in various Barrow fittings (90s, 45s, pass throughs, etc).


Gotcha. Thanks a bunch for the response.


----------



## Siamonsez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Can you post a pic of your res setup? Primochill makes these coils you can cut and bend to the right size if the anti vortex trident isn't enough. Also try reducing pump speed.




The loop comes into the res through the blue cable bar in the bottom end cap so the flow goes right past where the pump is hooked up; so it's not an issue with vortex, but getting the in-flow past where the outlet is before letting it loose in the res. Hope that makes sense, I realized how awkward it sounded as I was typing it, but can't think of another way to describe it.


----------



## ryan92084

So the inlet to the res is on the bottom and the problem is the bubbles are being sucking in the pump as they go by the pump's port? I would try rotating the case in a way the bubbles floating up wouldn't want to pass directly by the port for several hours. If you have a vario/pwm variant lowering the speed may help. For a more permanent solution you could purchase/fabricate something like https://www.amazon.com/Bitspower-Aqua-Fitting-Matte-Black/dp/B017GM47QM


----------



## Radnad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siamonsez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Can you post a pic of your res setup? Primochill makes these coils you can cut and bend to the right size if the anti vortex trident isn't enough. Also try reducing pump speed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The loop comes into the res through the blue cable bar in the bottom end cap so the flow goes right past where the pump is hooked up; so it's not an issue with vortex, but getting the in-flow past where the outlet is before letting it loose in the res. Hope that makes sense, I realized how awkward it sounded as I was typing it, but can't think of another way to describe it.
Click to expand...

Your explanation doesn't make sense with the picture and its probably my fault, but sounds like the trident is what you need?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mmrs-push-in-anti-vortex-trident-two-pack-black.html


----------



## Siamonsez

Radnad said:


> Quote:Originally Posted by *Siamonsez*
> 
> Quote:Originally Posted by *Deedaz*
> 
> Can you post a pic of your res setup? Primochill makes these coils you can cut and bend to the right size if the anti vortex trident isn't enough. Also try reducing pump speed.
> 
> *Warning: Spoiler!* (Click to show)
> 
> The loop comes into the res through the blue cable bar in the bottom end cap so the flow goes right past where the pump is hooked up; so it's not an issue with vortex, but getting the in-flow past where the outlet is before letting it loose in the res. Hope that makes sense, I realized how awkward it sounded as I was typing it, but can't think of another way to describe it.
> 
> 
> Your explanation doesn't make sense with the picture and its probably my fault, but sounds like the trident is what you need?
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mmrs-push-in-anti-vortex-trident-two-pack-black.html


That wouldn't help, you can't see the input for the rez. This is the bottom endcap:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/mons...-port-end-cap-with-dual-side-ports-black.html

it comes in through that center port an the pump is on the side port.


----------



## ryan92084

Siamonsez said:


> That wouldn't help, you can't see the input for the rez. This is the bottom endcap:
> 
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/mons...-port-end-cap-with-dual-side-ports-black.html
> 
> it comes in through that center port an the pump is on the side port.


See my reply above. The anti vortex could also be modified to work by making It taller so at least a portion of the bubbles bypassed the pump port but the other options are likely easier.


----------



## Siamonsez

ryan92084 said:


> See my reply above. The anti vortex could also be modified to work by making It taller so at least a portion of the bubbles bypassed the pump port but the other options are likely easier.


The anti vortex would still have one third of the flow going past the outlet no matter how tall it is. I think I have a solution, I ordered a g1/4 die and a chunk of copper tube to make a fully threaded nipple so I can have a piece of hard tube extending up in the inside of the res.


----------



## ryan92084

Siamonsez said:


> The anti vortex would still have one third of the flow going past the outlet no matter how tall it is. I think I have a solution, I ordered a g1/4 die and a chunk of copper tube to make a fully threaded nipple so I can have a piece of hard tube extending up in the inside of the res.


Hah, that was basically my original suggestion (or just buy the premade one). Let us know how it works out for you.


----------



## rathar3

Its been awhile since i posted here. Had more health issues but i took the advice and got new cables for my system. Put in a waterblock on the GPU also. Pics are not the best but.

Bleh gotta figure out why pic is upside down


----------



## rathar3

*i think i got it right*

think this is better


----------



## rathar3

More pics
i hope this works


----------



## solidshark91493

Been another good minute, Glad to see this has helped so many including monsoon! 
Im looking at changing my setup a bit. 
I have a swiftech H320 AIO, and I messaged them asking if it would work adding a gpu to my loop. They said "Hell yeah go for it" in my own words. So Im adding a gtx 980 (vga only) block and a full 1070 block. Im going to add another 120 radiator to help keep everything chilly. 

Only issue I see with this might be the AIO pump. And I planned on using chaingun fittings to replace all the barb ones.. But the VGA block says I cant use fittings with a outer diameter over 20mm per EK. And im wondering if the 1/2 x 3/4 size is too large for this and what size I should get.


----------



## mfknjadagr8

solidshark91493 said:


> Been another good minute, Glad to see this has helped so many including monsoon!
> Im looking at changing my setup a bit.
> I have a swiftech H320 AIO, and I messaged them asking if it would work adding a gpu to my loop. They said "Hell yeah go for it" in my own words. So Im adding a gtx 980 (vga only) block and a full 1070 block. Im going to add another 120 radiator to help keep everything chilly.
> 
> Only issue I see with this might be the AIO pump. And I planned on using chaingun fittings to replace all the barb ones.. But the VGA block says I cant use fittings with a outer diameter over 20mm per EK. And im wondering if the 1/2 x 3/4 size is too large for this and what size I should get.


The pump will handle it easily as for the fittings maybe someone else can advise


----------



## solidshark91493

mfknjadagr8 said:


> The pump will handle it easily as for the fittings maybe someone else can advise


Good to know. Spent the last week without a computer because I thought I fried my power supply.. turns out the +2 pins on my gpu werent in all the way and shorted it out which caused it to not boot correctly. 
Ugh. Saved 260 bucks buying a multimeter instead of a 1k watt xD

Hopefully gene or someone else can kick in a comment on the waterblock compatibility


----------



## ryan92084

Normally I'd thread search this to death but it is still broken so it is time for a dumb question instead.

IIRC there was talk about an adapter to mount the MMRS directly to a radiator. Did this ever come to fruition and does anyone know the part name? Or am i crazy and just imagining things?


----------



## Bluebell

ryan92084 said:


> Normally I'd thread search this to death but it is still broken so it is time for a dumb question instead.
> 
> IIRC there was talk about an adapter to mount the MMRS directly to a radiator. Did this ever come to fruition and does anyone know the part name? Or am i crazy and just imagining things?


Google MMRS Reservoir mount. There are options for colour, stand off and radiator size.


----------



## ryan92084

Of course I found it almost immediately after posting in the thread because that's how things go. The fact that I didn't see it my previous 20 times through the performance PCs parts list is why my wife never asks me to find anything in the house. 

Parts are RAD-MT-KIT-120 and RAD-MT-KIT-140.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Do we have any news about new vendors in Europa other than OCUK? For some odd reason they dont ship to where I live, and I would like to avoid ordering from the states again, since taxes add almost 50% to whatever I order 
Having the urge to extend my reservoir abit.


----------



## CrazyCreator

@outofmyheadyo
I have the same question too


----------



## outofmyheadyo

OCUK donkeys dont ship to your country either ? 
And if they did, it wouldn`t help much their stock is very limited.


----------



## CrazyCreator

I search a vendor in Germany.
Shippings Costs and Taxes very expensive from other countrys


----------



## Juris

outofmyheadyo said:


> Do we have any news about new vendors in Europa other than OCUK? For some odd reason they dont ship to where I live, and I would like to avoid ordering from the states again, since taxes add almost 50% to whatever I order
> Having the urge to extend my reservoir abit.


Where are you based? I'm in Ireland and the biggest problem I've had with Monsoon is getting the parts I need. OCUK's selection is limited as you say. Tubing is easy to find from OCUK or Aquatuning but rotary fittings are a nightmare. For my new Raijintek Paean build I needed 10x 5/8 90 chrome fittings to match the 16 EV2's but just couldn't get them so have had to go with XSPC. Its annoying not just because I really wanted to keep it an all Monsoon build (save for parts they just don't make) but as its a brother build to my In Win 909 custom it now looks like a brother from another mother.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Well I am from Estonia, and cant find any other vendors in Europe besides OCUK.


----------



## Unnatural

Same here, OCUK doesn't ship to Italy


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Try casekings as they are in Europe and own OCUK so should have the same products.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Well they dont, have anything at caseking from MMRS


----------



## Juris

Guys try these. They all stock Monsoon parts and ship across Europe. Its just a question of whether the have the parts you need.

Watercooling.co.uk definitely ships to Estonia and Italy (I swapped my shipping address to Estonia to check and it said 18 GDP for orders over 2kg via DPD). https://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/

Highflow in The Netherlands ship to Ireland and do international shipping to other locations. https://www.highflow.nl/

Worth giving the guys in Caseking in Germany a shout. They bought OCUK several years ago but OCUK and Caseking maintain separate operations. They can however sometimes transfer stock from one to the other so if there was an item in OCUK's stock list if you asked Caseking and gave them the OCUK stock code they might be able to transfer to CK and sell it to you to be delivered across Europe. Can't hurt to ask.https://www.caseking.de/en

A personal recommendation would be KustomPC's. Its a small UK operation. Graham is the proprietor and I've had very good communication with him on previous orders. They've just redone their site and he seems to have a good bit of Monsoon stuff in stock. Worth dropping him an email if you need something he doesn't have in stock and if you're looking for cheap shipping he also does Royal Mail International Airmail as well as the usual DPD etc. https://www.kustompcs.co.uk/


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I belive it`s just easier to choose another manufacturer in Europe, checked all those sites, 95% of items are out of stock, and none had MMRS to begin with, but thanks for trying.


----------



## SolarNova

Hi @BoxGods

I have a question.

What material (polymer) are your O-rings made form that you use in the Ev2 hardline compression fittings?

I intend have sub zero liquid flowing through my loop and i need to know what temperature the o-rings are capable of handling down to.

Cheers


----------



## ruffhi

BoxGods hasn't been here since 12-30-2017 ... nothing this year .


----------



## SolarNova

SolarNova said:


> Hi @BoxGods
> 
> I have a question.
> 
> What material (polymer) are your O-rings made form that you use in the Ev2 hardline compression fittings?
> 
> I intend have sub zero liquid flowing through my loop and i need to know what temperature the o-rings are capable of handling down to.
> 
> Cheers





ruffhi said:


> BoxGods hasn't been here since 12-30-2017 ... nothing this year .


I got a reply back from them directly much faster than i expected so no matter 

They use silcone o-rings, and should be fine specs wise, but advises that i test them. Obviosly i will.

Silicone o-rings, depending on where u look, have a lowest temp rating of somehwere around the -65c range, so should be fine.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Hey guys, looking to a buy a MMRS with a d5 (to build the equivalent of this basically https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-incl-sl-pump)
Ideally it should be mounted vertically on a 140mm fan which is resting horizontally in the bottom of the case.
Can't find the mount for this though, any thoughts?


----------



## Deedaz

zipeldiablo said:


> Hey guys, looking to a buy a MMRS with a d5 (to build the equivalent of this basically https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-incl-sl-pump)
> Ideally it should be mounted vertically on a 140mm fan which is resting horizontally in the bottom of the case.
> Can't find the mount for this though, any thoughts?


Here you go.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Deedaz said:


> Here you go.


Oh so that's this one, thanks.
Weird there is only two mounting points, is that enough for the vibrations and the weight of the reservoir?


----------



## Deedaz

zipeldiablo said:


> Oh so that's this one, thanks.
> Weird there is only two mounting points, is that enough for the vibrations and the weight of the reservoir?


It's a pretty thick piece of steel and it spreads the load out so it shouldn't have any issues.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Deedaz said:


> It's a pretty thick piece of steel and it spreads the load out so it shouldn't have any issues.


Thanks mate.
Sorry to bother you guys a bit but i need a bit more help for the configuration.

I have 390mm clearance in total (might have more if i remove the 140mm in the bottom of my case and screw the res directly on the bottom of the case but i would prefer to avoid it).

I will have the res + pump d5 and on on top of my case a rad + fan which is 85mm in total. (this is included in the 390mm)
Ideally i was thinking about having the inlet on the top of the res but depending on the tube size i might not be able to do it.

What tube size do you guys recommend? Looking to get the biggest tube possible, i just need to be able to pug a 90 degrees fitting on top of it or on the size depending on which top goes onto the res.
I did look online but i cannot find any measurements so i am really lost here.

Thanks


----------



## ryan92084

zipeldiablo said:


> Thanks mate.
> Sorry to bother you guys a bit but i need a bit more help for the configuration.
> 
> I have 390mm clearance in total (might have more if i remove the 140mm in the bottom of my case and screw the res directly on the bottom of the case but i would prefer to avoid it).
> 
> I will have the res + pump d5 and on on top of my case a rad + fan which is 85mm in total. (this is included in the 390mm)
> Ideally i was thinking about having the inlet on the top of the res but depending on the tube size i might not be able to do it.
> 
> What tube size do you guys recommend? Looking to get the biggest tube possible, i just need to be able to pug a 90 degrees fitting on top of it or on the size depending on which top goes onto the res.
> I did look online but i cannot find any measurements so i am really lost here.
> 
> Thanks


Measurements for the parts are here http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS-DIMS.jpg 

If you are trying to mount the tube vertically on a horizontal rad/fan the part linked to you will not work. That part is for mounting a vertical on vertical or horizontal on horizontal. The closest thing to what you are after afaik from monsoon is http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-res-parts/monsoon-mmrs-vertical-mount-black-chrome.html but it isn't made for fan mounting holes.


----------



## zipeldiablo

ryan92084 said:


> Measurements for the parts are here http://geno.boxgods.com/MMRS-DIMS.jpg
> 
> If you are trying to mount the tube vertically on a horizontal rad/fan the part linked to you will not work. That part is for mounting a vertical on vertical or horizontal on horizontal. The closest thing to what you are after afaik from monsoon is http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-res-parts/monsoon-mmrs-vertical-mount-black-chrome.html but it isn't made for fan mounting holes.


I thought those two parts linked together 
So there is no way to do what i want? 
That's a really bad news :/ though i am happy to know before ordering anything.

Thanks for the measurements


----------



## ryan92084

zipeldiablo said:


> I thought those two parts linked together
> So there is no way to do what i want?
> That's a really bad news :/ though i am happy to know before ordering anything.
> 
> Thanks for the measurements


I suppose if you attached the radiator mounting kit to the narrow end of the vertical mount it would work. I had wondered why the base of the vertical tapered like that, makes sense now.


----------



## zipeldiablo

ryan92084 said:


> I suppose if you attached the radiator mounting kit to the narrow end of the vertical mount it would work. I had wondered why the base of the vertical tapered like that, makes sense now.


Thing is i cannot find the measurements for the radiator mounting kit, i have those for the vertical mount though.
Such a bummer, i don't understand why there is no plans available online for every part :/

Any idea where the wide end of the vertical mount is supposed to be fixed though?
Are you supposed to drill holes or something ?


----------



## ryan92084

zipeldiablo said:


> Thing is i cannot find the measurements for the radiator mounting kit, i have those for the vertical mount though.
> Such a bummer, i don't understand why there is no plans available online for every part :/
> 
> Any idea where the wide end of the vertical mount is supposed to be fixed though?
> Are you supposed to drill holes or something ?


Depending on what measurements you need for the radiator mount I may be able to help since I have the 120mm version in its box still.

Pretty sure the vertical mount is intended to be mounted to the case and comes seems to come with a template for adding the holes if neccessary.


----------



## zipeldiablo

ryan92084 said:


> Depending on what measurements you need for the radiator mount I may be able to help since I have the 120mm version in its box still.
> 
> Pretty sure the vertical mount is intended to be mounted to the case and comes seems to come with a template for adding the holes if neccessary.


Hum i see.

Can you confirm that there is 26mm between the center of the threads please? (the holes that are close together)


----------



## Deedaz

zipeldiablo said:


> Thing is i cannot find the measurements for the radiator mounting kit, i have those for the vertical mount though.
> Such a bummer, i don't understand why there is no plans available online for every part :/
> 
> Any idea where the wide end of the vertical mount is supposed to be fixed though?
> Are you supposed to drill holes or something ?


You can attach the vertical mount to the rad mount but it will only be attached with the short side. Should still be plenty strong enough. Typically you would drill holes in the case and mount it that way. Here's a pic of my vertical mount. The MMRS has a lot of ways you can configure it to work in just about any situation.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Deedaz said:


> You can attach the vertical mount to the rad mount but it will only be attached with the short side. Should still be plenty strong enough. Typically you would drill holes in the case and mount it that way. Here's a pic of my vertical mount. The MMRS has a lot of ways you can configure it to work in just about any situation.


Looks good.
Too bad i cannot do that in my case, got a thermaltake core x9.
Might do yeah, the metal part seems sturdy enough, i'm just worried about vibrations since there will only be two screws (actually the hard part will be to find the screws imo, the sellers at leroy merlin might help with that  )

Was searching the forum a bit, and after some digging seems like i wasn't the only one with this issue.
Apparently the mount from alphacool might be what i am looking for : https://www.alphacool.com/shop/pump...g-universal-fuer-120-140er-luefter/radiatoren

But since they don't link any measurement i will have to wait for the support to answer me


----------



## ryan92084

zipeldiablo said:


> ryan92084 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Depending on what measurements you need for the radiator mount I may be able to help since I have the 120mm version in its box still.
> 
> Pretty sure the vertical mount is intended to be mounted to the case and comes seems to come with a template for adding the holes if neccessary.
> 
> 
> 
> Hum i see.
> 
> Can you confirm that there is 26mm between the center of the threads please? (the holes that are close together)
Click to expand...

Not the best method but seems right. Just a truck off the camera lens the that makes it appears off.

I really wouldn't worry about it only attaching at two points honestly. Throw some rubber or foam in there if vibration is an issue


----------



## euphoria4949

Does anyone know of online stores that sell these Monsoon MMRS parts in either the UK or EU?
I saw a list of a few places on this forum a while ago and also on the Monsoon site itself, but sadly it seems all but one have stopped selling them, the only place I could find was Overclockers .co.uk, but... they have informed me on two separate occasions that they're experiencing supply/restock issues with Monsoon and they will not be getting new stock for months, or not at all and will cease listing these parts.

I'm looking for the D5 pump housing specifically.


----------



## zipeldiablo

euphoria4949 said:


> Does anyone know of online stores that sell these Monsoon MMRS parts in either the UK or EU?
> I saw a list of a few places on this forum a while ago and also on the Monsoon site itself, but sadly it seems all but one have stopped selling them, the only place I could find was Overclockers .co.uk, but... they have informed me on two separate occasions that they're experiencing supply/restock issues with Monsoon and they will not be getting new stock for months, or not at all and will cease listing these parts.
> 
> I'm looking for the D5 pump housing specifically.


The only place i could find that has the d5 pump housing in EUROPE (yeah the whole europe) was overclocker.co.uk, such a pain because a lot of items are out of stock, they expect a delivery but it will be a few weeks before it arrives.
You have pretty much everything on performance-pc (us) but mate the shipping cost, it's like 110$ for usps delivery, fedexx is 80$, not worth the extra shipping cost imo.



ryan92084 said:


> Not the best method but seems right. Just a truck off the camera lens the that makes it appears off.
> 
> I really wouldn't worry about it only attaching at two points honestly. Throw some rubber or foam in there if vibration is an issue


Hum, where should i put it? between the two parts?
I asked the guy who created the monsoon, apparently he designed the part i need but it never went to production because not enough people wanted it, trying to find a solution with him aswell as the size of the screws i need for the two mounting point solution we found 
Yeah i guess i will do that if the guy doesn't come through


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## euphoria4949

zipeldiablo said:


> The only place i could find that has the d5 pump housing in EUROPE (yeah the whole europe) was overclocker.co.uk, such a pain because a lot of items are out of stock, they expect a delivery but it will be a few weeks before it arrives.
> You have pretty much everything on performance-pc (us) but mate the shipping cost, it's like 110$ for usps delivery, fedexx is 80$, not worth the extra shipping cost imo.


Dammit, that's what I thought. I have no idea why it seems so difficult for stores to stock and sell Monsoons products, whether it's Monsoon neglecting deliveries to the EU/UK, lack of interest from customers (seems unlikely), or something else I just don't get it, I know Monsoon are a fairly small company but come on.
_*Sigh_ - I guess it will be some boring plain-ass Acetal EK pump-top for me then


----------



## zipeldiablo

euphoria4949 said:


> Dammit, that's what I thought. I have no idea why it seems so difficult for stores to stock and sell Monsoons products, whether it's Monsoon neglecting deliveries to the EU/UK, lack of interest from customers (seems unlikely), or something else I just don't get it, I know Monsoon are a fairly small company but come on.
> _*Sigh_ - I guess it will be some boring plain-ass Acetal EK pump-top for me then


Might be that most of EU customers never heard of monsoon in the first place ?
Overclockers .co.uk is expecting their delivery to arrive in two or three weeks (in the even you need something out of stock) so if time is not an issue you can just place your order (so that way when the parts arrive they are for you) and wait a bit.


----------



## Deedaz

euphoria4949 said:


> Dammit, that's what I thought. I have no idea why it seems so difficult for stores to stock and sell Monsoons products, whether it's Monsoon neglecting deliveries to the EU/UK, lack of interest from customers (seems unlikely), or something else I just don't get it, I know Monsoon are a fairly small company but come on.
> _*Sigh_ - I guess it will be some boring plain-ass Acetal EK pump-top for me then


I think the issue is that there are so many SKU's and the resellers don't want to stock it. They probably don't think anyone wants it and why bother stocking it if people are content buying the same old thing. Start complaining to the resellers that they don't have monsoon stuff and maybe they'll order it. I believe Gene has mentioned this before, but I don't think hes been in here since the changeover.


----------



## zipeldiablo

Deedaz said:


> I think the issue is that there are so many SKU's and the resellers don't want to stock it. They probably don't think anyone wants it and why bother stocking it if people are content buying the same old thing. Start complaining to the resellers that they don't have monsoon stuff and maybe they'll order it. I believe Gene has mentioned this before, but I don't think hes been in here since the changeover.


Might be because they need to have in stock a lot of parts due to how customisable the mmrs is ?
I mean, european stores have basically every monsoon product except for the res parts, they even have the dual-bay res but they don't stock the rods and stuff...

Also a lot of parts are just not available on overlockers.co.uk because there isn't enough demand (like black chrome parts, frosted core reactor tube etc)


----------



## Deedaz

zipeldiablo said:


> Might be because they need to have in stock a lot of parts due to how customisable the mmrs is ?
> I mean, european stores have basically every monsoon product except for the res parts, they even have the dual-bay res but they don't stock the rods and stuff...
> 
> Also a lot of parts are just not available on overlockers.co.uk because there isn't enough demand (like black chrome parts, frosted core reactor tube etc)


Just searching through PPC's website under monsoon, there's almost 9000 items, most of which are the MMRS.


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## zipeldiablo

Deedaz said:


> Just searching through PPC's website under monsoon, there's almost 9000 items, most of which are the MMRS.


That's a lot of parts


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## ryan92084

I don't know about 9000 but there are at least 292 http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-res-parts


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## euphoria4949

Thanks for the replies and info. I had to contact OCUK for something else and got chatting with the CS agent, so I asked about the Monsoon stuff again, he told me there is no ETA on new stock and if any OCUK staff had told me otherwise they were mistaken. The Monsoon restock was expected weeks ago and never arrived, then the rearranged order was delayed and now there is nothing on the system, so either Monsoon haven't bothered contacting OCUK to rearrange an order, or OCUK has given up and cut ties with Monsoon, no longer stocking their products.

Oh well, maybe an extra €1000 will suddenly drop into my lap out of nowhere and I can order the parts from the US and afford the crazy shipping costs


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## zipeldiablo

euphoria4949 said:


> Thanks for the replies and info. I had to contact OCUK for something else and got chatting with the CS agent, so I asked about the Monsoon stuff again, he told me there is no ETA on new stock and if any OCUK staff had told me otherwise they were mistaken. The Monsoon restock was expected weeks ago and never arrived, then the rearranged order was delayed and now there is nothing on the system, so either Monsoon haven't bothered contacting OCUK to rearrange an order, or OCUK has given up and cut ties with Monsoon, no longer stocking their products.
> 
> Oh well, maybe an extra €1000 will suddenly drop into my lap out of nowhere and I can order the parts from the US and afford the crazy shipping costs


That's weird, one of them told me they were expecting a delivery in 2/3 weeks which was shipped from americain april 20th.


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## Deedaz

zipeldiablo said:


> That's weird, one of them told me they were expecting a delivery in 2/3 weeks which was shipped from americain april 20th.


Monsoon ships directly from their warehouse in china, nothing comes from the US.


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## zipeldiablo

Deedaz said:


> Monsoon ships directly from their warehouse in china, nothing comes from the US.


Oh my bad, i assumed it was shipped from america
That's weird, cause i searched before and didn't find monsoon products on chinese websites


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## Deedaz

zipeldiablo said:


> Oh my bad, i assumed it was shipped from america
> That's weird, cause i searched before and didn't find monsoon products on chinese websites


Well he runs his business from the US and his partner handles the manufacturing side of things in china. At least that's what I remember about it.


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## SolarNova

Any1 know how well Monsoon Chrome matches with Barrow Silver ?

Specifical Monsoon EV2 Chrome fittings and Barrow 90 degree dual female Silver.


Cheers


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## Juris

SolarNova said:


> Any1 know how well Monsoon Chrome matches with Barrow Silver ?
> 
> Specifical Monsoon EV2 Chrome fittings and Barrow 90 degree dual female Silver.
> 
> 
> Cheers


They look identical to my eyes. Took come pics of my WIP Paean build. Fittings left to right. Monsoon chrome EV2, Barrow silver 4 way ball fitting with Barrow silver temp sensor & XSPC 90 chrome fitting front and back > EK 8mm extender > Monsoon back chrome 90.

Sorry as its evening here in Ireland the light isn't great but it should give you an idea. Hard to get a good comparison when the light is hitting flat and curved surfaces differently.


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## xrodney

delete


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## SolarNova

Juris said:


> They look identical to my eyes. Took come pics of my WIP Paean build. Fittings left to right. Monsoon chrome EV2, Barrow silver 4 way ball fitting with Barrow silver temp sensor & XSPC 90 chrome fitting front and back > EK 8mm extender > Monsoon back chrome 90.
> 
> Sorry as its evening here in Ireland the light isn't great but it should give you an idea. Hard to get a good comparison when the light is hitting flat and curved surfaces differently.


Cheers, glad to hear they match. 

GL with ur build


----------



## Unnatural

My molded parts (black version) looks a bit worn down: any suggestion on how to make them look better?


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## ryan92084

Unnatural said:


> My molded parts (black version) looks a bit worn down: any suggestion on how to make them look better?


I understand delrin is a real pain to try and polish  but you could try a silicone cloth to give it a bit of shine back.

edit: Nevermind they are nylon so you could also try polishing them


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## CrazyCreator

Why does @BoxGods (Last Activity: 12-30-2017) not support here anymore or does not he write here anymore?
The news of the lack of deliveries to OCUK makes me get terrible premonitions.

Is Monsoon still active and producing goods?


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## Juris

CrazyCreator said:


> Why does @BoxGods (Last Activity: 12-30-2017) not support here anymore or does not he write here anymore?
> The news of the lack of deliveries to OCUK makes me get terrible premonitions.
> 
> Is Monsoon still active and producing goods?


No idea where Boxgods is but OCUK have definitely been getting deliveries of the EV2 fittings in recent weeks so pretty sure Monsoon are still well up and running.


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## CrazyCreator

Thanks for Info ... Fine ... Good News


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## Unnatural

ryan92084 said:


> I understand delrin is a real pain to try and polish  but you could try a silicone cloth to give it a bit of shine back.
> 
> edit: Nevermind they are nylon so you could also try polishing them


Oh, I thought they were delrin, too! Thanks!


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## CrazyCreator

A question about a config

I have the MMRS 2Bay Reservoir M2 (I think) with Adapter for D5 Pump here at home.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-monsoon-series-two-d5-premium-dual-5-25-reservoir-blue.html
This is still packed original, because the planned project was not implemented at that time.

I now need the D5 pump mount for a new project and would like to use the pump cover from the 2-bay reservoir.

The pump mount is so seperatly to buy: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/monsoon-mmrs-stand-alone-pump-mount-12mm-green-wc-444-mo.html

but which cap do I have to select for the D5 pump?
http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=193921&thumb=1


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## Unnatural

I don't think that part is sold separately, only included on the SAP (stand-alone pump) pack...


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## Deedaz

CrazyCreator said:


> A question about a config
> 
> I have the MMRS 2Bay Reservoir M2 (I think) with Adapter for D5 Pump here at home.
> http://www.performance-pcs.com/new-monsoon-series-two-d5-premium-dual-5-25-reservoir-blue.html
> This is still packed original, because the planned project was not implemented at that time.
> 
> I now need the D5 pump mount for a new project and would like to use the pump cover from the 2-bay reservoir.
> 
> The pump mount is so seperatly to buy: https://www.overclockers.co.uk/monsoon-mmrs-stand-alone-pump-mount-12mm-green-wc-444-mo.html
> 
> but which cap do I have to select for the D5 pump?
> http://www.overclock.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=193921&thumb=1


If I understand you correctly, you want this to mount the D5 pump to a tube res.


----------



## CrazyCreator

Deedaz said:


> If I understand you correctly, you want this to mount the D5 pump to a tube res.


No, this is a cap for a tube. One side the d5 and other side the reservoir.
I need a end cap. one side the d5 pump and other side closed with G1/4 Ports


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## Bluebell

CrazyCreator said:


> No, this is a cap for a tube. One side the d5 and other side the reservoir.
> I need a end cap. one side the d5 pump and other side closed with G1/4 Ports



One of these perhaps?


http://www.performance-pcs.com/mons...pump-type--laing-d5/res-accy-type--mounting/?


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## CrazyCreator

This is the complete Set ... But I need only the Cap from this Set.


----------



## Bluebell

MMRS and mount


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## Tisaku

Could someone post the measurements of the Monsoon bay res? I especially need the front face to rear face(not the tube coupling) and the side to the edge of the tube coupling. Case decided it wanted to be extra tight once it was together and my only other option is hack and slash on an EK dbay.


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## GraphicsWhore

Bluebell said:


> MMRS and mount


Looking good! I'm considering eventually swapping from red tube and black chrome pump cover to blue/blue. Won't be for a while though.



CrazyCreator said:


> This is the complete Set ... But I need only the Cap from this Set.


It's this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-res-parts/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-black.html


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## ryan92084

Tisaku said:


> Could someone post the measurements of the Monsoon bay res? I especially need the front face to rear face(not the tube coupling) and the side to the edge of the tube coupling. Case decided it wanted to be extra tight once it was together and my only other option is hack and slash on an EK dbay.


I only have the standard tube part measurements you should probably try contacting @BoxGods / Monsoon directly or a retailer.



Graphics***** said:


> It's this: http://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-res-parts/monsoon-mmrs-end-cap-with-d5-pump-mount-black.html


That mates a pump to a tube they only want the standalone pump top which afaik is not offered separately. Hopefully they've found a solution in these 4 months


----------



## Benjiw

Well i'm pretty upset, one of my monsoon hardline fittings failed today and I previously had an issue with a nickel block turning from nickel to copper and the same thing has happened again. Are the bases on the harline fittings coated in silver? I've read on EKWB's site not to mix nickel and silver so i'm concerned why this issue has happened twice. I'm guessing the UV glue I used wasn't applied enough to stop my end cap coming off but it nearly cost me my system and i'm wondering why I've had to bin 2 x evo blocks now.


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## ryan92084

If your nickel plating is failing you've got something else going on in your loop. Monsoon used to do silver fittings when the free centers first came out (I have two like that) but they moved to just offering silver plugs long before the hardline fittings came out.


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## Davitz

You probably used too little glue or didnt allow it to cure 100% before tightening it down. I've had it where I didn't let it cure long enough before installing and had that one eventually start weeping


----------



## Benjiw

Has anyone worked out what type of UV lamp you need to cure the UV adhesive because its the middle of winter and I want to finish my loop so i can get to finally painting and finishing the build.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Benjiw said:


> Has anyone worked out what type of UV lamp you need to cure the UV adhesive because its the middle of winter and I want to finish my loop so i can get to finally painting and finishing the build.


Many many pages ago it was suggested to only use sunlight. There is UV in winter just takes longer


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## Benjiw

ChiTownButcher said:


> Many many pages ago it was suggested to only use sunlight. There is UV in winter just takes longer


Yeah I seem to remember reading that, I believe it has something to do with the type of UV like some form of frequency? I don't know, just don't want my pc to be down for too long is all.


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## Benjiw

So I'm typing this from my phone as the last 2 monsoon fittings failed in my pc... I'm really angry as periodically these fittings and the glue used to adhere the collars has failed on me!!! So do I need to reglue these things periodically or what??! I just nearly lost over £1000 worth of my only way to earn a living...


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## Benjiw

Just checked the glue and it's not even hard any more it appears to have gone soft so is there a lifespan on how long this stuff lasts for? I need answers because this problem has been on going for quite some time now and having paid a premium on glue and fittings and spare collars all I'm left with is soft tubing in my pc and a sour experience with something marketed as mission critical which has been anything but.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Benjiw said:


> Just checked the glue and it's not even hard any more it appears to have gone soft so is there a lifespan on how long this stuff lasts for? I need answers because this problem has been on going for quite some time now and having paid a premium on glue and fittings and spare collars all I'm left with is soft tubing in my pc and a sour experience with something marketed as mission critical which has been anything but.


I have personally never seen anyone say their glue got soft, sorry. I would suggest contacting Monsoon. That said could it be the glue was not fully cured? Or what fluid you are using is causing a reaction? Did you use Monsoons glue or another brand?


----------



## Benjiw

ChiTownButcher said:


> I have personally never seen anyone say their glue got soft, sorry. I would suggest contacting Monsoon. That said could it be the glue was not fully cured? Or what fluid you are using is causing a reaction? Did you use Monsoons glue or another brand?


Monsoon's glue, I don't know do you think 2 hours in cloudless sky during summer is enough 2 years or so ago? De-ionised water and mayhems red dye.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Benjiw said:


> ChiTownButcher said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have personally never seen anyone say their glue got soft, sorry. I would suggest contacting Monsoon. That said could it be the glue was not fully cured? Or what fluid you are using is causing a reaction? Did you use Monsoons glue or another brand?
> 
> 
> 
> Monsoon's glue, I don't know do you think 2 hours in cloudless sky during summer is enough 2 years or so ago? De-ionised water and mayhems red dye.
Click to expand...

I would reach out to monsoon


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## Benjiw

ChiTownButcher said:


> I would reach out to monsoon


I was going too but everyone seems to think its something I'm doing so no doubt they'll say the same, I've had these fittings for a number of years now and had nothing but trouble, I wish I would of just bought compression fittings instead now, its just extra effort for a bigger (in my experience) hidden failure, if its not the rubber seal that the tube sits on failing, its the actual caps failing due to the glue, then you have to wait for a sunny day with strong UV rays which doesn't happen much here in england. You can't overtighten the collars, if you do it will fail, you have to spend extra time or money to get them to line up perfectly or they will leak. 

Sorry for the rant, just had enough now.


----------



## AllGamer

I'm planning to pick up a *Monsoon Series Two D5 Premium Dual 5.25" Reservoir*
However I can't find the sizes and dimensions of the reservoir.


Does anyone own one of these can can tell me the *Depth* ?

We know the *Width* already which is 5.25"

*Height* I'm guessing it's 2 x 5.25" slot or maybe 3 x 5.25" slot, either way


Found a good size image.








I already own a D5 pump cover from monsoon before, so I was measure that and resize the picture to life size, then measure the reservoir.

It appears to be 75mm depth, and 42mm extra for the D5 pump cover, total depth is aprox 117mm (can some one please confirm that?)


----------



## kablash

I have a question regarding the 1.2mm mount.

Is it 12mm with or without the "legs"?

This is the mount I mean: https://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-12mm-stand-alone-pump-mount-chrome.html

Thanks!


----------



## GraphicsWhore

kablash said:


> I have a question regarding the 1.2mm mount.
> 
> Is it 12mm with or without the "legs"?
> 
> This is the mount I mean: https://www.performance-pcs.com/monsoon-mmrs-12mm-stand-alone-pump-mount-chrome.html
> 
> Thanks!


Without


----------



## kablash

GraphicsWhore said:


> Without


Thank you my friend!

Do you happen to know how much the legs add?


----------



## GraphicsWhore

kablash said:


> Thank you my friend!
> 
> Do you happen to know how much the legs add?


I use the 25mm mount so not precisely sure but if you look at the product image on PPCs site and do an eyeball estimate you'd figure it's mid-40mm.


----------



## Triscuit

Does anyone know if this company even exists anymore? Had a massive issue with their horrible products and hoping to get a hold of them but see that they have not been online anywhere in years.


----------



## ryan92084

If you want to contact them I'd try http://www.monsooncooling.com/contact.php

If you want to troubleshoot you could try asking here. Beyond monsoon's glue based hardlines there aren't many complaints about their quality.


----------



## solidshark91493

Man, Im no where near as active here as I used to be but its humbling and insane to me how huge this thread got. Glad to see Gene has flourished his products here even though Ive never gotten around to getting a custom setup for myself, and that all of you are able to troubleshoot, share, and see new products from them.


----------



## jincuteguy

Triscuit said:


> Does anyone know if this company even exists anymore? Had a massive issue with their horrible products and hoping to get a hold of them but see that they have not been online anywhere in years.


I think the company is dead. Too much for hyping these products in the past couple years. The guy was just gone.


----------



## ChiTownButcher

Their website is still active but the owner no longer is active on the forum and they have to launched anything new in about 4yr. They made a good product for the most part and were innovative at the time. Titan Rigs sells their products and could probably tell you for sure. I really like the finish and athletic on their stuff. I hope they are still in business but don't know for sure.


----------



## ciarlatano

ChiTownButcher said:


> Their website is still active but the owner no longer is active on the forum and they have to launched anything new in about 4yr. They made a good product for the most part and were innovative at the time. Titan Rigs sells their products and could probably tell you for sure. I really like the finish and athletic on their stuff. I hope they are still in business but don't know for sure.


They are still around. The owner probably went the way of many other reps here and got sick of being constantly bashed. I use their fittings, rotaries and res, and am extremely happy with all of them. The poster above is running through threads from mfg he doesn't care for posting the same thing.


----------



## DaaQ

Owner is still active, just not on these forums, due to life reasons and toxicity of these forums. 

As stated above best bet is to reach out to the company email. Geno is very helpful, and an enthusiast in his own right, 

Just be patient, he will get back to you.


----------

